# The Stax thread (New)



## Carl

By popular demand I'm starting a new thread for our discussions on all things Stax and electrostatic due to the unwieldily number of pages of that thread. This thread should be looked on as a direct continuation of the previous thread. 

 Keeping a broad scope with regards to subject matter has served us well up to now, so feel free to discuss anything related to Stax and electrostatic/electret headphones and their amplification in general.

 Previous threads are here:
The Stax thread - Previous Stax thread
Long, meandering comparison of Stax 404 and Stax X-III, Episode I - Originally Lloyd's SR-X impressions thread, but basically got subverted into the Stax thread's predecessor

 If you would like to nominate other threads to be added to this list by all means do so, but lets try to avoid listing every single thread that's ever mentioned Stax or electrostatics in the history of Head-fi.


 That's the fine print out of the way, so everyone have fun.


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## duderuud

Yeah, I'm the second the post in a gonna-be-very-long-and-interesting thread


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## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duderuud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I'm the second the post in a gonna-be-very-long-and-interesting thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

We'll keep this one shorter than the previous one to prevent anyone getting RSI from excessant use of the scroll wheel.


 Okay, to get the ball rolling there is an interesting discussion on 2channel currently about the difference in sound depending on whether the earpads seal or not. A chap was kind enough to offer these graphs of his 404, although he made pains to say that they shouldn't be considered especially accurate, particularly in the treble.

 This is with the earpads lying flush:





 And this is with a gap:





 I'm not totally sure on the exact conditions under which the measurements took place but I found the results quite interesting.


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## mirumu

I'd like to nominate darth nut's Omega II review worthy for a link from the first page.

 What is the key on those 404 graphs?


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## thrice

Interesting graphs. I've tried detaching my lambda pro drivers from the headband and holding them up to my ears like the K1000 drivers. It might be interesting for someone to build a K1000-like electrostatic headphone. One where you could swivel the drivers closer or further away from your ears.


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## jirams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting graphs. *I've tried detaching my lambda pro drivers from the headband and holding them up to my ears like the K1000 *drivers. It might be interesting for someone to build a K1000-like electrostatic headphone. One where you could swivel the drivers closer or further away from your ears._

 

How did this experiment sound ?


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## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jirams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How did this experiment sound ?_

 

Interesting. It works much like a K1000 works. As you swivel them too and from your head you can play with the headstage and overall sound. I'd be curious to have some sort of permanent setup that would allow me to actualy wear them and listen for an extended time to really judge them.

 I've got a spare set of Lambda drivers...maybe I should put them to good use 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 + 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 =


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## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. It works much like a K1000 works. As you swivel them too and from your head you can play with the headstage and overall sound. I'd be curious to have some sort of permanent setup that would allow me to actualy wear them and listen for an extended time to really judge them.

 I've got a spare set of Lambda drivers...maybe I should put them to good use 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 + 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 = 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Something like that would be seriously trick. It'd make JaZZ's home made electrostatics look sane and normal by comparison.


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## Downrange

Nice to see the new thread!

 This thread from earlier last year has probably resulted in a lot of purchases of BabyStax! (Including mine
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=165168


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## d-cee

i'm so excited i can't contain myself

 my first venture into electrostats is fast approaching

 i am expecting delivery of my lambdas with srm-1/mk2 from new zealand that i scored on fleabay for a bargain (considering recent going prices anyway!)

 i was thinking of going the SRM-323 with SR-404 but i believe this setup may be comparable and for much much less $$$

 oh goodness... someone hold me


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## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm so excited i can't contain myself

 my first venture into electrostats is fast approaching

 i am expecting delivery of my lambdas with srm-1/mk2 from new zealand that i scored on fleabay for a bargain (considering recent going prices anyway!)

 i was thinking of going the SRM-323 with SR-404 but i believe this setup may be comparable and for much much less $$$_

 

Not only comparable but maybe better . Are they pro bias ?


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## d-cee

yep, 5 pin pro =D


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## derekbmn

Your in for a real treat.


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## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm so excited i can't contain myself

 my first venture into electrostats is fast approaching

 i am expecting delivery of my lambdas with srm-1/mk2 from new zealand that i scored on fleabay for a bargain (considering recent going prices anyway!)

 i was thinking of going the SRM-323 with SR-404 but i believe this setup may be comparable and for much much less $$$

 oh goodness... someone hold me_

 

Dinna matter where you start with Stax, you're starting near the top of earphones. Welcome to the wonderful world of clear sound.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


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## jirams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. It works much like a K1000 works. As you swivel them too and from your head you can play with the headstage and overall sound. I'd be curious to have some sort of permanent setup that would allow me to actualy wear them and listen for an extended time to really judge them.

 I've got a spare set of Lambda drivers...maybe I should put them to good use 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 + 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 = 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Tried same with Lambda Nova Basics - detached from headband and held carefully to avoid occluding backwards 'exhaust' from them. Tried all sorts of angles and volumes but must say I could not convince myself of any real out of head imaging improvement


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## ferrstein

Sorry to break in on this conversation... but I'm wondering if someone can tell me where I can get a replacement cable for my Sigmas? Mine has an open somewhere... if I don't hold my head just right the right channel goes out. Moving the cable helps. 

 I don't see any on Audiocubes or Audiocubes2. Do I need to cut up an extension cable? Thanks in advance!


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## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to break in on this conversation... but I'm wondering if someone can tell me where I can get a replacement cable for my Sigmas? Mine has an open somewhere... if I don't hold my head just right the right channel goes out. Moving the cable helps. 

 I don't see any on Audiocubes or Audiocubes2. Do I need to cut up an extension cable? Thanks in advance!_

 

This guy might have one .
http://myworld.ebay.com/revaud/


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## patrickamory

Yay, the new Stax thread!

 I'm listening to Bach right now on my turntable --> Pass Aleph 3 --> SR-X setup. It really is revelatory. 

 My SR-X pads are flat but intact. I've ordered a replacement set of pads from Audiocubes 2. Should I expect a big difference in sound, or is it mainly about comfort?

 Also, how do I replace the pads? They're just held on by sticky tape, right?

 Patrick


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## ej82m

Nice, new stax material to read. I have a 007t on the way from a awesome head-fier, but still no adapter to use. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It should be fun comparing my new amps when it's finally completed. I wonder how the srm-1/mk-2 will hold up against the 007t. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Maybe I should just order a pair of stax headphones in the meantime?


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## facelvega

Hey all, I heard back from Audiocubes about why the SR-X earpads were only listed on Audiocubes2 and not the main site. Evidently site 2 is not just a backup. Here's what they wrote:

 "AudioCubes carries more casual and lifestyle products and AudioCubes 2 has
 high-end products like Amplifiers and Sound Systems. The Stax Replacement
 Pads for SR-X MKIII Earspeakers are available on AudioCubes 2."

 So it looks like no. 2 will be the place to look for parts and accessories. I like the bare-bones look of 2 better than 1 anyway. Good-looking websites make me nervous.


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## smeggy

I doubt you'd hear a difference with the new SR-X pads as it's no better at sealing and yes, the old ones peel off and he new ones come with a double-sided sticky tape ring, you press them into place and you're done.


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## DENON

Does anyone of you know what would be the first good hearable upgrade to the 2050?


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## wower

Here's a good question for this thread:

_Is it a sin to connect a O2 to the 323II??_ Just until I get back overseas and get a KGSS. People connect expensive headphones to less expensive amps all the time; it's just a matter of later scaling up. Does anyone have experiences to share on this point??


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## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wower* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a good question for this thread:

Is it a sin to connect a O2 to the 323II?? Just until I get back overseas and get a KGSS. People connect expensive headphones to less expensive amps all the time; it's just a matter of later scaling up. Does anyone have experiences to share on this point??_

 

I've driven the O2s out of my SRM-252A. It still sounds good but doesn't really let the O2 really flex it's muscles. The impact is a bit less and they sound a tad darker and less exciting. Nothing too bad though, they still sound like quality headphones. I expect a 323II would be fine as a temporary stop gap untill your KGSS arrives.


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## nothing101

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DENON* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone of you know what would be the first good hearable upgrade to the 2050?_

 

probably 202 and 313. the new amp would be an improvement but it would be pretty minor. i have heard the 3030 and 2020 system and i dont reckon the 3030 is worth twice the price.


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## wower

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It still sounds good but doesn't really let the O2 really flex it's muscles. The impact is a bit less and they sound a tad darker and less exciting. Nothing too bad though, they still sound like quality headphones._

 

That's very helpful. Thanks. 

 I'm actually living overseas at the moment and want to take advantage of nicely priced stax gear. Getting a KGSS over here only to have to drag it back to Canada one day makes me shutter.

_My big delimma is:_ get a 404/727 system or a O2/323II system?? This choice is going to drive me crazy.


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## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wower* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's very helpful. Thanks. 

 I'm actually living overseas at the moment and want to take advantage of nicely priced stax gear. Getting a KGSS over here only to have to drag it back to Canada one day makes me shutter.

My big delimma is: get a 404/727 system or a O2/323II system?? This choice is going to drive me crazy._

 

Just my .02 - ALWAYS get the better transducer (speaker, headphone, earspeaker). You can always upgrade what comes before in the chain later.


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## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can always upgrade what comes before in the chain later._

 

's right. How can you upgrade any part of your system unless you have a transducer that's good enough to show you how lousy your CD player and preamp, and by extension the life you're living, are?


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## TomH

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_'s right. How can you upgrade any part of your system unless you have a transducer that's good enough to show you how lousy your CD player and preamp, and by extension the life you're living, are?_

 

So true!!!!!


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## jigster

Wow, just realized this new thread has just been started and its already in its 2nd page! Think this will reach the century page mark quite soon, better start buying widescreen monitors soon guys....


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## gordie

If this keeps up maybe we could lobby for an electrostatic forum. The first Stax thread was awesome, but I have to admit it is a bit of work to find anything specific in it - if it was a series of posts in its own forum that would serve future generations well.

 -- Gordie


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## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt you'd hear a difference with the new SR-X pads as it's no better at sealing and yes, the old ones peel off and he new ones come with a double-sided sticky tape ring, you press them into place and you're done._

 

When the old ones look like this you will:







  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If this keeps up maybe we could lobby for an electrostatic forum. The first Stax thread was awesome, but I have to admit it is a bit of work to find anything specific in it - if it was a series of posts in its own forum that would serve future generations well._

 

A separate forum would just serve to keep the non-stax people from ever venturing into the fold. But I fully agree that the first Stax thread was getting ungainly as an information source.


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## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When the old ones look like this you will:





_

 


 Oh _*those*_ ones lol. ok, well maybe a slight difference.. I was at least expecting the pads to still be there.


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## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wower* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My big delimma is: get a 404/727 system or a O2/323II system?? This choice is going to drive me crazy._

 

The answer is simply to buy the system with the headphone you enjoy more. 404s and Omega 2s have quite different sound signatures and one will appeal more to one group of people and the other will appeal more to another group of people.


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## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_404s and Omega 2s have quite different sound signatures and one will appeal more to one group of people and the other will appeal more to another group of people._

 

Carl - Since the 4070s has the same drivers as the 404, would it be safe to say that they share similar signatures? Or have you heard them yet?

 As far as individual forums for different manufactures, i.e., AKG, AT, STAX, etc., that would be helpful; however, lesser referenced cans would probably fall off the radar or hardly recieve recognition. At least with the jack format you have numerous headphones that are being referred to any given day, at any given moment. IMO, there aren't enough members to warrant individual forums, yet. Many auto forums do this, but this ain't autos. However, I do hope to see the individual forums in the future.


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## gordie

I agree individual forums for each manufacturer would be too much.

 I was suggesting a forum for all electrostatics (which are mainly Stax, but also Sennheiser and Koss), which I think would cover a lot of ground.

 Also, regarding 404s vs. 4070s I can comment on 303s vs 4070s (and 303s are very similar to 404s): Comments regarding 303 vs. 4070 in K1000 vs. 4070 thread

 -- Gordie


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## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl - Since the 4070s has the same drivers as the 404, would it be safe to say that they share similar signatures? Or have you heard them yet?_

 

Well they're closer to the 404 than the Omega II, at least. 

 Electrostatic transducers are all pretty sonically neutral. It's the headphone housing/cable and the amp that account for most of the sound signature.


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## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree individual forums for each manufacturer would be too much.

 I was suggesting a forum for all electrostatics (which are mainly Stax, but also Sennheiser and Koss), which I think would cover a lot of ground.

 Also, regarding 404s vs. 4070s I can comment on 303s vs 4070s (and 303s are very similar to 404s): Comments regarding 303 vs. 4070 in K1000 vs. 4070 thread

 -- Gordie_

 

Thanks Gordie, I'll give that thread a read.
 I read that wrong : an all inclusive electrostatic forum would be a really pleasant experience.


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## Downrange

+1 for separate "electrostatics" forum 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Aside from my old Senn 570s, that's about all I have. (Not that they're that bad...)


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## Goosepond

Hi,

 I'm a new member of the Stax club, or at least I will be in a few days. I just bought a T1 amp and a pair of 404's on AudiogoN.

 I've already got a pair of 650's and a Meier PreHead. And also a pair of K1000's on the way along with a Moth si2A3. Has this place affected my judgement. Naaaah! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How can I go wrong.

 I wonder if anyone knows why Stax doesn't still produce adapters anymore? Is it because they want to sell more of their amps?

 Gene


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## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt you'd hear a difference with the new SR-X pads as it's no better at sealing and yes, the old ones peel off and he new ones come with a double-sided sticky tape ring, you press them into place and you're done._

 

This is re-assuring. I have a pair of SR-X Mk3s where the vinyl (?) has worn off, but the cloth beneath it remains (like the one on the right in the photo above). I actually find them quite comfortable like this: no sweaty ear syndrome (!), but I have wondered if the HF is lost a little because of its absorption into the cloth/foam.


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## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Goosepond* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can I go wrong._

 

You already did, by coming here. If you are at all impressionable, these guys will soon have you believing you need at least an Omega 2 and an expensive aftermarket dedicated amp. It is a form of mass hysteria empowered by the Internet.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


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## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Goosepond* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if anyone knows why Stax doesn't still produce adapters anymore? Is it because they want to sell more of their amps?_

 

They just moved on with their market. Back in the middle decades of the last century, an amp cost quite a bit of money. It was cheaper making a matching box than a full amp, and probably all their customers wanted to pay for. (I don't know what earspeakers and adapter boxes cost then but certainly they were treated as expensive items; the Stax phones I used in the 1960s at the recording studio my advertising agency owned were kept in a locked wooden box and taken out only when I worked in the studio.) It was probably a smart move on the part of Stax to use pre-existing amps, to make a necessary connecting box as relatively cheaply as possible. Then.

 Today a silicon amp, at least, is cheap to make, and the hybrid tube OTL amps Stax makes not much more expensive. Here you should read "cheap" and "expensive" in relative historic terms, and relatively to the high labor and probably wastage costs of making electrostatic earspeaker units. The key cost (next to the case!) is probably the transformer, and that would be the same for an amp and for an adapter box (different kinds of transformers but the cost would be pretty closely related).

 Furthermore, it does appear that there has been a change of philosophy at Stax. The cynical might say that this is simply an extension of the line of argument above: that Stax is more responsive to their market, or even follows fashion more closely. Whichever it is, to those of us not overimpressed with the design of Stax amps of old (the design compromises once you understood the topology sat very uneasily with the incredibly high price), the modern Stax amps are impressive (at their respective prices), especially to those of us with tube DIY backgrounds. Underlying this movement, almost dragging the Stax amps into the 21st century by the scuff of their necks, one might reasonably imagine that some opinion-former at Stax decided that the most direct path between source and earphone -- which is clearly not an unknown and possibly unmatched amp PLUS an adapter -- would give the electrostat the best chance to deliver the finest sound. A decicated amp of Stax's own design follows logically, and is made possible at a price the market clearly wants to pay by the advance of electronic time, as described above.

 Personally I would like to think that this beneficial sequence happened as the result of hard thought and not just haphazardly because time passing made creeping changes possible.

 There will be cries of outrage. There are many here who consider some old Stax earspeaker and its matching adapter box superior to the current crop of earspeakers with their matching dedicated amps. It is possible. However, electrostatic speaker technology has not advanced much in half a century. An electrostat is an electrostat, a nice clear sound. What has advanced is our understanding of how the housing, the cable and the positioning of the diaphraghm in relation to the ear influence the various qualities of the perceived sound. Electrostatic earphone hi-fi is no different from other hi-fi in at least this regard: where cables or other additional elements (all the way up to deliberate EQ) make a difference, it is because of solecisms of design in other aspects of the chain. It thus seems to me likely that, if the owner's amp plus adapter is perceived as superior to the modern amp for driving earspeakers, personal choice or familiarity and adaptation to the quirks of the owner's amp might play a large part. In other words, the adapter box gimmicks some problem right, in exactly the same way that in normal hi-fi a high-capacitance cable can accidentally gimmick mismatched components into giving a "better" perceived sound. But your modern Stax earspeaker already comes engineered with cable that releases the full frequency band of which the factory's recommended matching amp is capable. That is why the amp is matched to it. There is nothing left to gimmick right. (Some other time I will explain why I think that the ever higher frequencies the Stax earspeakers are capable of is a mistake, and why the amp or the cable should be used to filter these down. I mention it now as an example of how hi-fi is never as simple as I, or anyone else, can sometimes make it look by simplifying complex relationships to make a debating point. There is thus in fact something left to gimmick right. But who knows whether the adapter box does the business?)

 Don't you just love speculation?

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


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## audiod

Hi Everyone,
 I’m new to this forum, but certainly not new to electrostatic headphones. I got the Koss ESP-9’s when they first came out. I got my first Stax headphones (SR-3 with a SRA-3s amp) in the early seventies. I’m including some pictures of my current family of headphones and drivers. I would like to see some pictures of your family of headphones, especially the rare and hard to find. I wish I found out about this thread a long time ago. Better late than never.

 Guess the make and model numbers and win a trip to Jamaica (just joking!).

 AudioD


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## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is re-assuring. I have a pair of SR-X Mk3s where the vinyl (?) has worn off, but the cloth beneath it remains (like the one on the right in the photo above). I actually find them quite comfortable like this: no sweaty ear syndrome (!), but I have wondered if the HF is lost a little because of its absorption into the cloth/foam._

 


 Hi Johnny, 
 the set I have came with old worn pads as well. the foam inside was collapsed and all the vinyl was missing but they are actually more comfy than the new pads. As you said, less sweaty and a softer, more conforming fit. I didn't notice any change in sound after swapping them out but I'm not a detail oriented listener, I'm a sound signature listener. The difference, if you notice one, will be minimal as even new pads are thin and absorption will be small at these distances.


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## Downrange

Just messin' with ya!

 Great post!


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## Johnny Blue

This is not a new idea: I remember at least 15 years ago getting out the Duraglit (a UK metal-polishing wadding material) and spending a happy half-day cleaning all my hi-fi's mains supply plugs and connections, with dramatic results.

 But, over the years, I've got lazy... until yesterday, when I decided to change the mains socket on the wall to an unswitched type, and polish up my 313's mains plug's pins (also including internally, where the [UK standard] 13 amp fuse fits).

 Lo and behold! A big improvement in tunefulness, clarity and HF (in particular) detail. Great (if it'd cost me £50 to pay for the 'upgrade', I'd have been happy)!

 In the past, I've been known to remove the standard fuses (i.e., the 13 amp ones inside a standard UK plug) and solder in the mains leads: this is OK because my hi-fi components (the amps and power supplies) have mains supply fuses fitted inside them. I'm tempted to try the same with my Stax 313 mains plug, but I can't see any user-changeable mains fuse on the back of the energizer, so am unsure as to whether this would be OK to do (although it occurs to me that in other countries, there's no fuse fitted as standard in the mains supply plug anyway, so it can't be necessary... ).

_(Usual warnings and provisos apply: don't try this at home, don't do anything you're not competent to do [E & OE], no responsibility is stated or implied, etc., etc.)_


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## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Everyone,
 I’m new to this forum, but certainly not new to electrostatic headphones. I got the Koss ESP-9’s when they first came out. I got my first Stax headphones (SR-3 with a SRA-3s amp) in the early seventies. I’m including some pictures of my current family of headphones and drivers. I would like to see some pictures of your family of headphones, especially the rare and hard to find. I wish I found out about this thread a long time ago. Better late than never.

 Guess the make and model numbers and win a trip to Jamaica (just joking!).

 AudioD
_

 

Oooh, nice collection and welcome aboard audiod 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You don't have any SR-X Pros in there you wanna sell do you? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 j/k... sortof 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yeah you woulda had a ball in the last mega Stax thread and I'm sure your long Stat history will give us some great insights.

 Damn that's a nice collection! erm, ok move along...


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## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oooh, nice collection and welcome aboard audiod 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You don't have any SR-X Pros in there you wanna sell do you? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 j/k... sortof 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yeah you woulda had a ball in the last mega Stax thread and I'm sure your long Stat history will give us some great insights.

 Damn that's a nice collection! erm, ok move along..._

 

Smeggy,
 Thanks for the welcome. I have 3 sets of SRXIII's but no pro's. The only pro driver I have is the SRM-1 mkII Pro. I mostly use the SRX's with the SRA-12s amp. I have a Behringer DSP-8024 EQ in the tape loop and have custom EQ presets for all my low-bias phones (SR-5 w/SRX elements, SRXIII & Lambda). I use the SRM-1 mkII Pro mostly with my Lambda Pro's.
 AudioD


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## smeggy

Nice, good to have you here


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## jirams

..............is there anything I can do to brighten up the treble a bit ??


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## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_Hi Everyone, I’m new to this forum, but certainly not new to electrostatic headphones. Guess the make and model numbers..._

 

Wow, cool! Welcome! Always good to have another Michigander.

 Waaaaaayyda minnit-- There's a ringer in the lineup, a pair of Yamaha Orthodynamics! Not to mention the obvious K701. But do I see *three* (3!) pairs of ESP-9s?

*EDIT:* One of the "rare headphone" threads:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...highlight=rare

 .


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## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well they're closer to the 404 than the Omega II, at least. 

 Electrostatic transducers are all pretty sonically neutral. It's the headphone housing/cable and the amp that account for most of the sound signature._

 

Carl - Due to our posting at the exact same time, and me running of to review Gordie's 4070 thread, I missed your response. However, through some sort of divine intervention, I found your comments regarding the 4070; weird. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I miss the old thread! Instead of one having to scroll right, at the bottom of the page there should have been (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9.....20 (Last Page)). As you move through pages, the hyperlinks at the bottom should give you more page options. Or, instead of that, why not a drop down box, that also gave you option of manually entering the page number. However, the former, IMO, is the better option.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jirams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..............is there anything I can do to brighten up the treble a bit ??_

 


 Not without some EQ. I tend to run mine from computer rigs so adding a little up top is easy when needed. They take very well to eq which is just as well as they are somewhat 'reserved' up top. I still wouldn't give mine up despite liking bright cans as they are so musically satisfying.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, cool!

 Waaaaaayyda minnit-- There's a ringer in the lineup, a pair of Yamaha Orthodynamics! Not to mention the obvious K701. But do I see *three* (3!) pairs of ESP-9s?_

 

wualta,
 Yes, I have 3 ESP-9’s and 2 E/9 energizers. They are the second most uncomfortable phones ever made (the ESP-6 being the first). I don’t use them much anymore, but when I do I am always amazed on how “Right” the sound is. They sound great on all types of music. The tonal balance is “Right”. I plan on taking one of them and cutting the cups off and making them a true dipole, replace the pads, band and wire.

 The Yamaha HP-1’s are a very interesting phone that uses a thin film diaphragm with wires on it between two magnetic perforated plates. They have great dynamics, bottom end and do a good job with Rock and Pop music that is over processed. Kinda like a cross between a Stat and a dynamic phone. Fostex still makes a interesting planar magnetic headphone on paper. I have never heard them. Fostex is mostly a pro sound company. Stats are still the best.

 I use the K701 and HP-1 with a Musical Fidelity X-Can V3. I like the 701's better than my Senn HD650's (now sold). I have a Denon mini system in my bedroom that I use the K701 most of the time.

 I have a question for everyone. Has anybody connected the ESP-9’s to a Stax amp or SRD?

 I am also looking for a backup Lambda Pro. Maybe an interesting trade?

 AudioD


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




 What's a "solecism?" [of design]_

 

An infelicity.

 Andre Jute
 Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_Yes, I have 3 ESP-9’s... They are the second most uncomfortable phones ever made (the ESP-6 being the first)._

 

That's exactly what I've been tellin' these kids.. 

 Does the 9 have an elliptical diaphragm, like the later Stax Lambda?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I plan on taking one of them and cutting the cups off and making them a true dipole, replace the pads, band and wire._

 

I'd be very interested in the results of this particular experiment.

 What did Koss use to absorb the backwave in the 9?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_The Yamaha HP-1’s are a very interesting phone... Fostex still makes an interesting planar magnetic headphone on paper. I have never heard them. Stats are still the best._

 

Fostex is still in the planar business, but there's a catch. Do a search for Fostex here on Head-Fi. You may find a crumb or two of useful, not to say provocative, information. 

 Can't beat 'stats, but a few of the planar magnetics came and still come awfully close. Again, there's a catch.

 By the way, we had a couple of ESP-9 owners in the farflung outposts of empire here, but other than Spritzer in Iceland, I'm not certain if any 9s are in fact still in their possession.

 Look around. You'll find this a wild, uninhibited place, with a whole smorgasbord of folks using a greater variety of headphones than ever existed before crammed into a greater variety of audio lifestyles than ever existed before. Truly a brave new world.

 .


----------



## smeggy

Sadly I've never heard any Koss 'stats and they aren't that plentiful on ebay either, well, not good versions at good prices anyhow. It's getting hard to justify more cans now, especially as I still have a bunch of other stuff like amps and DACs to get. One day though, one day...

 Dammit, now I want a set of SP 9s just to see how they sound but at 30+ years old I'm reluctant to spend much cash on them so I guess I'll just wait to see if I can snag a set cheap. I might stick a want ad in the forums to see if anyone bites


----------



## paulllaser

Smeggy,

 If you would like, I have 2 pairs of Koss ESP-9's and I would be willing to send you a pair to listen to for a while. The second pair has a malfunctioning adapter which I have to repair. May ultimately need the functioning one so I don't want to sell them at this time. By the way, I recently bought a second pair of 404's from Azure that are rumored to have originated from you. The other pair I have are new from a Lambda Pro repair/upgrade. I'm interested to see the difference a few hours has on these. Let me know if you want to try the 9's.






 Rob


----------



## mikeg

*audiod* - Have you had a chance to compare any of your Stax phones to a Sennheiser Orpheus HE90?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wualta,
 Yes, I have 3 ESP-9’s and 2 E/9 energizers. They are the second most uncomfortable phones ever made (the ESP-6 being the first). I don’t use them much anymore, but when I do I am always amazed on how “Right” the sound is. They sound great on all types of music. The tonal balance is “Right”. I plan on taking one of them and cutting the cups off and making them a true dipole, replace the pads, band and wire.

 The Yamaha HP-1’s are a very interesting phone that uses a thin film diaphragm with wires on it between two magnetic perforated plates. They have great dynamics, bottom end and do a good job with Rock and Pop music that is over processed. Kinda like a cross between a Stat and a dynamic phone. Fostex still makes a interesting planar magnetic headphone on paper. I have never heard them. Fostex is mostly a pro sound company. Stats are still the best.

 I use the K701 and HP-1 with a Musical Fidelity X-Can V3. I like the 701's better than my Senn HD650's (now sold). I have a Denon mini system in my bedroom that I use the K701 most of the time.

 I have a question for everyone. Has anybody connected the ESP-9’s to a Stax amp or SRD?

 I am also looking for a backup Lambda Pro. Maybe an interesting trade?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Electrostatic transducers are all pretty sonically neutral. It's the headphone housing/cable and the amp that account for most of the sound signature._

 

Pardon?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I've heard loads of stat phones and speakers and no two sound anywhere near identical. The FR is often a long way from flat and there are often diaphragm and housing resonances. Forget the theory and listen........


----------



## Azure

How are the Jecklin Floats compared to the SR-404s (or other headphones)?


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Azure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are the Jecklin Floats compared to the SR-404s (or other headphones)?_

 

If you're talking about the Jecklin stats I owned a set for a while and I thought they sucked. The clincher was comparing them to the X-III and finding how gritty, monochromatic, and unbalanced they sounded. I sold them a few days later. The 404 is also better, with a much more musical sound.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pardon?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've heard loads of stat phones and speakers and no two sound anywhere near identical. The FR is often a long way from flat and there are often diaphragm and housing resonances. Forget the theory and listen........_

 

And all of those were in a different housing with different cables and different amps?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paulllaser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Smeggy,

 If you would like, I have 2 pairs of Koss ESP-9's and I would be willing to send you a pair to listen to for a while. The second pair has a malfunctioning adapter which I have to repair. May ultimately need the functioning one so I don't want to sell them at this time. By the way, I recently bought a second pair of 404's from Azure that are rumored to have originated from you. The other pair I have are new from a Lambda Pro repair/upgrade. I'm interested to see the difference a few hours has on these. Let me know if you want to try the 9's.






 Rob_

 

Rob, very kind of you to offer. I'm gonna see what's what on ebay pricings to get a grip on what they are going for these days. If it's reasonable I'll probably buy some, If not, I'd be grateful to hear yours before shelling out and I'll give you a PM. Thank you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes the 404s were mine, I hope you enjoy them.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Is there any reason why I couldn't hook up two or three stax pro extention cables together and connect them into a stax pro amp and a stax pro headphone? 

 Is there any reason why I couldn't hook up two or three stax non pro extention cables togethre and connect them into a non pro stax amp?

 What are the effects, if any, on the quality of the sound when one does this?

 Is it a safe thing to do in terms of my equipment? 

 Thanks for your help? Scottsmrnyc


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're talking about the Jecklin stats I owned a set for a while and I thought they sucked. The clincher was comparing them to the X-III and finding how gritty, monochromatic, and unbalanced they sounded. I sold them a few days later. The 404 is also better, with a much more musical sound._

 

I totally disagree! I have the electrostatic Jecklins since 1990 or so, and kept them in good shape. I preferred them over the AKG K1000 (I sold that one) because the Jecklin has all the electrostatic _finesse_ that I lurve so much, and the K1000 just doesn't come close to that. I use the Jecklin alongside a Stax SR-X + SRD-7. The sound of the Jecklins is of course way less upfront and much less headphone-like than the SR-X; the soundfield they produce is very spacious, something _between_ listening to my Quad esl63's and the Stax 'phones. Very comfy too!


----------



## John Buchanan

Hmmmm my experience of the Jecklins vs the Stax Lambda Nova Signature:
 The Jecklins had a huge dynamic range, but they were too bright and had no bottom end. Listening to deep bass on the Jecklins was equivalent to 1 minutes silence.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*audiod* - Have you had a chance to compare any of your Stax phones to a Sennheiser Orpheus HE90?_

 

mikeg

 I had the Senn HE60/HEV70 about 5 years ago. I heard the HE90 at a dealer in Flint. The HE60 had a similar sound to my low bias Lambda's but seemed limited in dynamics. The amp was surely the problem. I could not justify keeping them. The Orpheus was great but I did not have my best to directly compare. I did not think that they were worth the money . I also had the Koss ESP-950 that was also limited by the amp. I see that some people are driving them with Stax amps. I would like to try that setup. I think that if I was flush with money I would get the O2 and drive it with the new Aleph J from Pass Labs driving a SRD-7 mkII. Just a dream.

 AudioD


----------



## Duggeh

Im amazed at the ESP9 comments. They were my first electrostats and after the Stax 2020 I never went near them again. Horrendously uncomfortable, thin sucked out sound, bright and slightly resonant treble. Initial impressions would have been of a clean clear or brigth sound but really, they just werent a capable headphone. Maybe my pair was in poor repair. The energiser eventually went wonky and i flogged them off on ebay.

 As for the Float stats. If they didnt always go for the must utterly lunatic prices on ebay I'd have boguht a set by now. Im very curious to know how a pair compares to the Ergo AMT. There were at least 3 versions of the Float electrostatic headphone though, and the adapter boxes were apparently very prone to failure.


----------



## krmathis

Here I have been away for two days (Rally Norway). During these two days you guys have created a new Stax thread, and made it to the fourth page... Great work!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE60 had a similar sound to my low bias Lambda's but seemed limited in dynamics. The amp was surely the problem. I could not justify keeping them. The Orpheus was great but I did not have my best to directly compare. I did not think that they were worth the money . I also had the Koss ESP-950 that was also limited by the amp._

 

Yeah, both are seriously constrained by their respective amp. Driven properly they're both very nice headphones.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im amazed at the ESP9 comments. They were my first electrostats and after the Stax 2020 I never went near them again. Horrendously uncomfortable, thin sucked out sound, bright and slightly resonant treble. Initial impressions would have been of a clean clear or brigth sound but really, they just werent a capable headphone. Maybe my pair was in poor repair. The energiser eventually went wonky and i flogged them off on ebay._

 

Duggeh,
 For the ESP-9's to sound their best they need to make a painfully tight seal with your head. Many 9's also seem to loose some of the fluid in the earpads which make a good seal impossible. They also like to be driven by a tube amp such as a Dynaco ST-35 or 70, Marantz 8B (in triode) or ARC D-51. Because they are closed back they are not as open as a Lambda or SRX. The main reason that I don't use them much anymore is their "Head in a Vise" lack of comfort.

 Audiod


----------



## patrickamory

Dumb question: how does the SRD-7/SB work? I don't understand how a passive device can "self-bias." Somehow it needs to extract 240V from the speaker outputs on my amp... which can only be a few volts difference from the SRD-7. 

 Patrick


----------



## patrickamory

Stax tube headphone amp comparison. Much ink has been spilled on the shortcomings of the 006t and 007t (not to mention the earlier models).

 Now that there are so many fine tubed amps for electrostatics, it would be good to hear feedback from those who have heard all of them. I realize that this is likely to be a pretty small group since 2 of these models have only been out for a short time... 

*Singlepower ES-1*
*Headamp Aristaeus*
*Headamp Gilmore / Blue Hawaii*

 and what other amps am I missing here?

 Patrick


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmmm my experience of the Jecklins vs the Stax Lambda Nova Signature:
 The Jecklins had a huge dynamic range, but they were too bright and had no bottom end. Listening to deep bass on the Jecklins was equivalent to 1 minutes silence._

 

They sure are dynamic and go very loud. Because they are very open and have large drivers, everyone in the same room 'enjoys' what you a listening to. Once I rocked out in such an uninhibited fashion that I even got complaints from my wife from the room next door (and the door was closed too!). 

 I just compared their bass to the SR-X's, and the Jecklins go right down to 40Hz too; like the SR-X a bit rolled off, but like the SR-X they can handle some EQ very well. 

 BUT THEN I received my Omega II earpads from Audiocubes! They could easily slip over the lip of my (newish) standard SR-X pads; no need at all for any destructive activities. The circumaural fit is excellent and extremely comfortable, AND THE SOUND IS TRANSFORMED! BASS, MORE BASS and IMPACT! I'm still bowled over by my impressions of the first few minutes. Possibly because the original SR-X pads stay in place, there's no resonant cavity and so no coloration. Highly recommended!

 I'm gonna play some more music. See ya!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J Harris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax tube headphone amp comparison. Much ink has been spilled on the shortcomings of the 006t and 007t (not to mention the earlier models).

 Now that there are so many fine tubed amps for electrostatics, it would be good to hear feedback from those who have heard all of them. I realize that this is likely to be a pretty small group since 2 of these models have only been out for a short time... 

*Singlepower ES-1*
*Headamp Aristaeus*
*Headamp Gilmore / Blue Hawaii*

 and what other amps am I missing here?

 Patrick_

 

There are a few more tubed electrostatic amplifiers:
*Rudistor Egmont*
*Rudistor Egmont Signature*
*McAlister Audio EA-4*
*McAlister Audio EA-1*
*WooAudio GES*
*Sennheiser HEV90*
 and last but not least...
*Stax SRM-T2*


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wualta,

 I have a question for everyone. Has anybody connected the ESP-9’s to a Stax amp or SRD?
_

 

I will most probably be doing this tomorrow when I pick my set up from the customs office. I don't know the bias so I'm not sure they will get the full Stax transformation as my ESP-6's or if I will make an adapter plug so they can get their bias from the E/9 and be driven by any amp with the Stax standard.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening to deep bass on the Jecklins was equivalent to 1 minutes silence._

 

Do you perhaps mean 4m33s?

 Andre Jute
 Habit is the nursery of errors. -- Victor Hugo


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening to deep bass on the Jecklins was equivalent to 1 minutes silence._

 

Do you perhaps mean 4m33s?

 Andre Jute
 Habit is the nursery of errors. -- Victor Hugo


----------



## mikeg

Woo audio electrostat amp.
 McAlister EA-1/4
 McAlister EA-6


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J Harris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax tube headphone amp comparison. Much ink has been spilled on the shortcomings of the 006t and 007t (not to mention the earlier models).

 Now that there are so many fine tubed amps for electrostatics, it would be good to hear feedback from those who have heard all of them. I realize that this is likely to be a pretty small group since 2 of these models have only been out for a short time... 

*Singlepower ES-1*
*Headamp Aristaeus*
*Headamp Gilmore / Blue Hawaii*

 and what other amps am I missing here?

 Patrick_


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo audio electrostat amp.
 McAlister EA-1/4
 McAlister EA-6_

 

Plus Rudistor Egmont, several varieties.


----------



## patrickamory

And yet another question. How are the Stax extension cables? Are Stax cables "balanced"? If this is the case, then they can be much longer than single-ended cables without less degradation of sound quality, correct?

 For the old 6-pin headphones, is there a particular cable that is recommended (or not)?

 Patrick


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Azure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are the Jecklin Floats compared to the SR-404s (or other headphones)?_

 

I bought the Jecklins in 1990 after comparing them carefully against the Lambda (don't know which version was in the shops then), driven by some sort of solid state Stax amp. I chose the Jecklin because of the large sound and sound stage, and for its potential to go loud without stress. I found the Lambda's thin and bloodless, with a narrow, sort of cramped sound stage. I've been happy with the Jecklins ever since. Three ýears or so back I compared them again against a Lambda (don't remember which one) via a Stax 303. Same result. Can't say the Lambda bass was any better. I do remember listening to a SR-X in 1977 or so. I coveted those, but couldn't afford them then, and in 1990 they were nowhere to be seen any more.


----------



## Downrange

UPS came this afternoon. Barely warmed up yet, but these are already amazing me. First, I just plugged the OIIs in the little Stax 212, just to get a baseline against the 202s. Not a huge difference, but better soundstage and more space between things in the front third of the stage. Vocals better, bass very prominent. But maybe the 202s are 85 per cent as good from this little, admittedly overmatched, amp. 
 Then the 7tII finally warmed close to room temperature and I hastily cleared a spot for it. No time for much of a tube warm-up, the built-in 18 second timer for the filaments will do for today. I fed it some material I've been listening to a lot lately from the Turbo'ed 5.5g Ipod, in comparing the 2020 and the babystax, and my jaw just dropped.
 If this is what they mean by matching a 'phone to an amp, I'm a believer. Just magic. The midrange is pure liquid bliss, everything is in its rightful place, bass has impact and sustain - I'm hearing things in the material I only glimpsed before.
 Time to let these run a while and re-visit later, but, count me as pretty blown away.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I can only imagine what something like a Blue Hawaii or ES-1 might sound like.

 (Incidentally, I was surprised to see the power cord Stax sent was a non-polarized two blade unit, even though the unit has a standard three-blade socket. This seemed odd to me, as I don't normally "float" tube chassis with respect to AC mains. Anyone know what the deal is? I'm thinking of replacing with a three-blade grounded plug, but must admit there's no hum, and sounds fine.)


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(Incidentally, I was surprised to see the power cord Stax sent was a non-polarized two blade unit, even though the unit has a standard three-blade socket. This seemed odd to me, as I don't normally "float" tube chassis with respect to AC mains. Anyone know what the deal is? I'm thinking of replacing with a three-blade grounded plug, but must admit there's no hum, and sounds fine.)_

 

In Japan, outlets have holes for only 2 blades - like an American socket without the ground pin hole.

 Patrick


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J Harris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In Japan, outlets have holes for only 2 blades - like an American socket without the ground pin hole.

 Patrick_

 

Yes, that's what I'm saying. These are the U.S. model, and the chassis jack is three-conductor, but the plug is wired for two plug- non polarized. That means the chassis must be floating, afaik, and that's unusual these days. 

 In the "old days," I used to get a nasty shock from such two-blade plugs in old table radios - just complete the ground path through a water pipe, or whatever!


----------



## patrickamory

I know that Shindo amps always use ungrounded power cords, including in the ones manufactured for the US market.

 Since you can't ground an amp via a Japanese outlet, this may be part of the design philosophy - floating grounds.

 Patrick


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J Harris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know that Shindo amps always use ungrounded power cords, including in the ones manufactured for the US market.

 Since you can't ground an amp via a Japanese outlet, this may be part of the design philosophy - floating grounds.

 Patrick_

 

Good point. It's possible the whole circuit board is floated off of chassis ground, too. Anyway, it sounds great, and no shocks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was so excited to hear these, I forgot to remove the EQ from the SR-001 session last night. Now, I've gotta relisten to about an hours worth of stuff. So far, very nice sound, although I'd like a little more control of the low bass. Mids are sweet. Need to break out some vinyl.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If this is what they mean by matching a 'phone to an amp, I'm a believer. Just magic. The midrange is pure liquid bliss, everything is in its rightful place, bass has impact and sustain - I'm hearing things in the material I only glimpsed before._

 

Congratulations. I like your enthusiasm!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can only imagine what something like a Blue Hawaii or ES-1 might sound like._

 

Hmm. A smaller step up than between the 2020 kit and the Omega2/007t.

 It's called marginality and in plain English means that the more money you have already spent, the smaller the incremental (additional) improvement for the next equal-sized hit in the wallet.

 What does the 202 sounds like with the 007t?

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## [AK]Zip

Got my ES-1 today. I definatly am enjoying my new setup. Source will be done in about a week and I will be in a whole new level of audio. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 -Alex-


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And all of those were in a different housing with different cables and different amps?_

 


 Identical amps and cables and as housing is something you can't do anything about (unless you want to DIY) you have to treat it as a constant. I repeat: stats are far from _necessarily_ being sonically neutral........there is as much variation with them as with dynamics.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What does the 202 sounds like with the 007t?

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review_

 

Better than they have ANY right to! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 More later - gotta rest these ears...


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I totally disagree! I have the electrostatic Jecklins since 1990 or so, and kept them in good shape. I preferred them over the AKG K1000 (I sold that one) because the Jecklin has all the electrostatic finesse that I lurve so much, and the K1000 just doesn't come close to that. I use the Jecklin alongside a Stax SR-X + SRD-7. The sound of the Jecklins is of course way less upfront and much less headphone-like than the SR-X; the soundfield they produce is very spacious, something between listening to my Quad esl63's and the Stax 'phones. Very comfy too!_

 

You didn't notice any difference in liquidity, balance, and coherence between the Jecklin and the SR-X?

 Here's my take. I ordered mine unheard around 1998 because I'd read a bunch of glowing reports (better than the Lambda Pro!) and loved the idea of drivers sitting slightly away from the ear rather than enclosing it. And I really tried to like them but honestly, they sounded artificial and unrealistic from go to whoa. They sounded odd, with this thin, reedy, and pinched midrange and highs coupled with a phasey "spread" bass. Timbres were all wrong, balance was wrong, and they sounded gritty to boot. There's a possibility that the transformer may have been partially responsible but I got rid of them after a few months amnd I've never regretted it. Both the X-III and the 404 are far better IMO.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought the Jecklins in 1990 after comparing them carefully against the Lambda (don't know which version was in the shops then), driven by some sort of solid state Stax amp. I chose the Jecklin because of the large sound and sound stage, and for its potential to go loud without stress. I found the Lambda's thin and bloodless, with a narrow, sort of cramped sound stage. I've been happy with the Jecklins ever since. Three ýears or so back I compared them again against a Lambda (don't remember which one) via a Stax 303. Same result. Can't say the Lambda bass was any better. I do remember listening to a SR-X in 1977 or so. I coveted those, but couldn't afford them then, and in 1990 they were nowhere to be seen any more._

 

Sorry. I'm a bit confused. Didn't you say you used the Jecklin alongside the SR-X?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my ES-1 today. I definatly am enjoying my new setup. Source will be done in about a week and I will be in a whole new level of audio. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

Envi....ous! Did you order it from Mikhail? Basic or suped-up version?


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better than they have ANY right to! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ._

 

Thanks. I'm not surprised to hear your opinion. I formed the opinion that the two meaningfully differentiated sets in the Stax range are the 2050 (202/252) and the O2/007t almost as soon as I heard the 202, which I bought only as a stand-in while I developed a tube amp dedicated to driving electrostatic headphones, not wanting to blow up something more expensive. My original idea was to upgrade to a 404 later, when my new amp is proven, but I've given that up after discovering how close the 202 is to the 404. The only significant upgrade would be to O2, and that needs a fair bit of justification; you can buy a fair number of discs for the price difference (not that I need any more -- I have 6000CDs already!).

 Playing Handel's Chandos Anthems in the complete version by my favourite choir, The Sixteen under Harry Christophers.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## Downrange

Gawd, these things are addicting... just the thought of those filaments cooking alone downstairs, I'm up and back at the desk. Broke out a dual-media disk I picked up recently of Steely Dan Gaucho.
 I must've heard "Hey Nineteen" eleventy-million times by now, but I think I may have just heard it for the first time. The thing about these Omegas is I'm having to re-educate myself about how to listen. The Lambdas are just so forward in comparison. There is something of "letting the sound happen" that I'm having to learn to do here. 
 Gaucho is one of those planned studio albums that has been carefully mixed together to yield certain effects. The Omegas dissect that planning with a fine edged scalpel. It's almost like three or four different albums going on at the same time in this headspace. You've got Fagen pulling solo duties in this sort of center spotlight down under me (picture being up in the lighting scaffolding, maybe thirty feet above Donald). Then the chorus is surrounding me left and right almost beside me up here. Over to the left, the rhythm guitar is maintaining an harmonic counterpoint that's somehow divorced from the whole soundstage and in its own space, really. 
 "The Cuervo Gold, the fine Columbian..."


----------



## Afrikane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my ES-1 today. I definatly am enjoying my new setup. Source will be done in about a week and I will be in a whole new level of audio. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

Congratulations Alex. Omega I/ES-1 rig, now that is something I would like to hear.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gawd, these things are addicting... just the thought of those filaments cooking alone downstairs, I'm up and back at the desk. Broke out a dual-media disk I picked up recently of Steely Dan Gaucho.
 I must've heard "Hey Nineteen" eleventy-million times by now, but I think I may have just heard it for the first time. The thing about these Omegas is I'm having to re-educate myself about how to listen. The Lambdas are just so forward in comparison. There is something of "letting the sound happen" that I'm having to learn to do here. 
 Gaucho is one of those planned studio albums that has been carefully mixed together to yield certain effects. The Omegas dissect that planning with a fine edged scalpel. It's almost like three or four different albums going on at the same time in this headspace. You've got Fagen pulling solo duties in this sort of center spotlight down under me (picture being up in the lighting scaffolding, maybe thirty feet above Donald). Then the chorus is surrounding me left and right almost beside me up here. Over to the left, the rhythm guitar is maintaining an harmonic counterpoint that's somehow divorced from the whole soundstage and in its own space, really. 
 "The Cuervo Gold, the fine Columbian..."
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It sounds like pure bliss, I'm glad you're enjoying them so much.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my ES-1 today. I definatly am enjoying my new setup. Source will be done in about a week and I will be in a whole new level of audio. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

I hope you're going to give us a good report on how it sounds once you have it all together. I love hearing about all the cool toys and how they sound.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Identical amps and cables and as housing is something you can't do anything about (unless you want to DIY) you have to treat it as a constant. I repeat: stats are far from necessarily being sonically neutral........there is as much variation with them as with dynamics._

 

I wasn't saying stats are sonically neutral. I was saying the things that make then not sonically neutral has very little to do with the driver.

 Here's a little experiment to try. Fiddle around with an equalizer (borrow one if you don't have one), and try to EQ one electrostatic mirror the FR of a different electrostatic headphone. While you can't fully get rid of bass roll-offs and the like, you can get them pretty impressively close in sound. You can't make a dynamic headphone sound like a 'stat with EQ, though.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you're going to give us a good report on how it sounds once you have it all together. I love hearing about all the cool toys and how they sound._

 

Having both an ES-1 and a Blue Hawaii surely can't be legal in Texas. You better move up to Utah, Alex.


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gawd, these things are addicting... just the thought of those filaments cooking alone downstairs, I'm up and back at the desk._

 

Congratulations!
 Lol -- You'd better get some rest or you're going to burn yourself out.
 Either way, I like what I'm reading and cannot wait to get acquainted with my set.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having both an ES-1 and a Blue Hawaii surely can't be legal in Texas. You better move up to Utah, Alex._

 

Your probably right. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## Carl

I just won an auction for something very cool. More information to follow.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

How much of a difference in sound can one expect when you have your Stax Omega 2s hooked into the Stax SRM007t Amp? When it is initially turned on as apposed to when it is on for hours?

 Also- Do you have any advice about leaving the SRM007t on while your not at home?

 What is the most amount of time you have had the SRM007t on for?

 Is there any danger to keeping the SRM007t on for too long? 

 Thanks Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much of a difference in sound can one expect when you have your Stax Omega 2s hooked into the Stax SRM007t Amp? When it is initially turned on as apposed to when it is on for hours?

 Also- Do you have any advice about leaving the SRM007t on while your not at home?

 What is the most amount of time you have had the SRM007t on for?

 Is there any danger to keeping the SRM007t on for too long? 

 Thanks Scottsmrnyc_

 

Others may have more experience here, but my two cents is that vacuum tubes suffer more from being turned on and off than letting them run. No question that my 007tII started sounding better around midnight, either. Now, how much of that was due to them being on for eight hours, and how much was due to the power lines maybe being a little cleaner - I don't know. 

 As for keeping them on continuosly, I dunno... Maybe turn them off when not using for a few days (if that ever happens!)


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having both an ES-1 and a Blue Hawaii surely can't be legal in Texas. You better move up to Utah, Alex._

 

Well, he doesn't have a Blue Hawaii just yet (though he did a great job on MINE)... but, having a BH and a McAlister EA-6 at the same time might just squeak under the radar in the Lone Star... just days away, then we will shoot it out for sure. And, as nice as that ES-1 is (sonically perfect, without question in my several hours with it), driving it at 5 o'clock and wanting more was just wrong, for me.


----------



## spritzer

I went to the customs office and picked up a Koss ESP 9 and a mint Stax SR-3 NEW. The ESP-9 is a beast but they actually fit my head unlike the ESP6. The adapter is stuffed with electronics and to add to the unnecessary circuitry there are caps and resistors inside the cups. The back of the drivers is coverd with cloth and then comes some 1.5cm of foam and then there is a circuit board. 

 I can't measure the bias because there wasn't a power cord included with them and the socket on the E.9 is some older design I don't have at hand. Running self biased they are very similar to my ESP6, the same bright nature but the midrange is much improved and the bass is fast but woolly. The cable is horrible and very microphonic so it will probably go. 

 The SR-3 NEW is from the same era and they are better in every aspect. Very mellow but they lack the extension of modern stats. Care should be taken not to push them very hard since they are designed for a 200v bias like the SR-1 and they will arc when driven too hard out of a normal bias socket.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much of a difference in sound can one expect when you have your Stax Omega 2s hooked into the Stax SRM007t Amp? When it is initially turned on as apposed to when it is on for hours?

 Also- Do you have any advice about leaving the SRM007t on while your not at home?

 What is the most amount of time you have had the SRM007t on for?

 Is there any danger to keeping the SRM007t on for too long? 

 Thanks Scottsmrnyc_

 

I don't have a 007t, but a 006t (2 tubes instead of 4). I leave mine running for extended periods. I have also heard that the heating/cooling cycle (ie turning the tubes on/off) hurts them more than just leaving them on. Hence, my 006t has been left on for more than a few days at a time. It definitely makes a difference to turn it on before listening. I can hear an obvious difference between leaving it on an hour before listening and 'cold starting'. It's just not as smooth.


----------



## mikeg

Any comments yet about the performance of the McAlister EA-6?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, he doesn't have a Blue Hawaii just yet (though he did a great job on MINE)... but, having a BH and a *McAlister EA-6* at the same time might just squeak under the radar in the Lone Star... just days away, then we will shoot it out for sure. And, as nice as that ES-1 is (sonically perfect, without question in my several hours with it), driving it at 5 o'clock and wanting more was just wrong, for me._


----------



## pabbi1

None - it's still in Ontario as of today, so it will probably make it to Dallas next week. We'll shoot it out with the BH and ES-1, through a couple of sources, with HE60, OI & OII. Tough work, but someone has to do it.

 Product Type: Expedited USA 
 2007/02/20 08:24 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item accepted and entered into sortation plant


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just won an auction for something very cool. More information to follow._

 

Carl, quit teasing and spill the beans. Enquiring minds want to know


----------



## mikeg

Here's a related thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205708


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, quit teasing and spill the beans. Enquiring minds want to know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Was just about to post this myself. C'mon give it up !!


----------



## mikeg

Could be an HE90/HEV90 rig.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Was just about to post this myself. C'mon give it up !!_


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be an HE90/HEV90 rig._

 

Nah, even Carl's not _that_ crazy.... or is he? Hmmmmmm


----------



## Duggeh

More likely he _finally _got himself a Lambda of some kind.

 Or maybe a better amp to put behind his illusion box.

 Or maybe one of those cryonic frozen 2020 systems.


 I just hope its not the TakeT. I want to be first with that one.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More likely he finally got himself a Lambda of some kind.

 Or maybe a better amp to put behind his illusion box.

 Or maybe one of those cryonic frozen 2020 systems.


 I just hope its not the TakeT. I want to be first with that one._

 

Hehe, I've been wondering what the TakeT would sound like myself. Certainly looks quirky enough for the Duggeh


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More likely he finally got himself a Lambda of some kind.

 Or maybe a better amp to put behind his illusion box.

 Or maybe one of those cryonic frozen 2020 systems.


 I just hope its not the TakeT. I want to be first with that one._

 

My guess is that it's nothing we'd guess. I'd have wondered if it was maybe an Alpha Pro Excellent if I'd seen any around but I haven't. Of course he may have other sources too so it's still a possibility.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry. I'm a bit confused. Didn't you say you used the Jecklin alongside the SR-X?_

 

I did and I do. I forgot to add that I bought a mint SR-X last summer (thanks to the "Long, meandering comparison of Stax 404 and Stax X-III"-thread!). It was like meeting an old friend after so many years etc., etc.. 
 But the Omega pads really top them off, since yesterday. Have to secure those with a bit of glue on the rim of the old pads though, as they tend to slip off.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did and I do. I forgot to add that I bought a mint SR-X last summer (thanks to the "Long, meandering comparison of Stax 404 and Stax X-III"-thread!). It was like meeting an old friend after so many years etc., etc.. 
 But the Omega pads really top them off, since yesterday. Have to secure those with a bit of glue on the rim of the old pads though, as they tend to slip off._

 

I'd really like to try my SR-X with Omega pads, I currently have SR5 pads fitted and it sounds better with them, better bass and more coherent as well as comfy. However, at $250 or whatever for the O2 pads it's a little spendy.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd really like to try my SR-X with Omega pads, I currently have SR5 pads fitted and it sounds better with them, better bass and more coherent as well as comfy. However, at $250 or whatever for the O2 pads it's a little spendy._

 

Look here:
http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/...rspeakers.html


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look here:
http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/...rspeakers.html_

 

Yikes, I coulds sworn I'd seen them at over $200! Well, time to get ordering, thanks


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-3 NEW is from the same era and they are better in every aspect. Very mellow but they lack the extension of modern stats. Care should be taken not to push them very hard since they are designed for a 200v bias like the SR-1 and they will arc when driven too hard out of a normal bias socket._

 

I didn't realise the first Staxes used an even lower bias than 230v. Considering the old SRD-1's bias could be cranked up to 400v, that could have made for interesting behaviour. You sure it wasn't just the original SR-3 that was like that? The SR-3N was from 1971, and Stax already had a number of direct-drive 'stat amps available by that stage. Surely they weren't all pumping out 200v biases.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Carl, quit teasing and spill the beans. Enquiring minds want to know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

Was just about to post this myself. C'mon give it up !!_

 

All in good time.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nah, even Carl's not that crazy.... or is he? Hmmmmmm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am that crazy, I'm just to that _rich_.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More likely he finally got himself a Lambda of some kind.

 Or maybe a better amp to put behind his illusion box.

 Or maybe one of those cryonic frozen 2020 systems.


 I just hope its not the TakeT. I want to be first with that one._

 

Don't worry, I wouldn't deprive you the chance to be the first to get the TakeT.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess is that it's nothing we'd guess. I'd have wondered if it was maybe an Alpha Pro Excellent if I'd seen any around but I haven't. Of course he may have other sources too so it's still a possibility._

 

No, the search continues for one of them. I keep loosing bidding wars on the bloody things (they tend to go for quite a bit more than Gamma Pros do).


----------



## audiod

Has anyone made a SRD replacement box using the Lundahl transformers mentioned earlier in this thread? If so how good are they compared to the trans in a SRD?

 I did a comparison today between the Lambda vs Lambda Pro vs 404.
 Also compared a SRM-1mk2 with a SRA-12s. Will report later.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone made a SRD replacement box using the Lundahl transformers mentioned earlier in this thread? If so how good are they compared to the trans in a SRD?_

 

Not sure how Lundahls would compare, but the transes in Stax's transformer boxes could be better.


----------



## Carl

A pictoral guide to Lambda pad replacement

http://www.geocities.jp/tochey_2000/acc08.html


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't realise the first Staxes used an even lower bias than 230v. Considering the old SRD-1's bias could be cranked up to 400v, that could have made for interesting behaviour. You sure it wasn't just the original SR-3 that was like that? The SR-3N was from 1971, and Stax already had a number of direct-drive 'stat amps available by that stage. Surely they weren't all pumping out 200v biases._

 

The SR-5 was the first one with the 230v bias. I thought that the SR-3 New was it but the set I picked up this morning had the original manual and it says 200v. I think that the SRD-6 was the first adapter with 230v bias because the manual for the SR-3 New also has a chapter on the SRD-5 and the SRA-3S so I would assume they were also 200v. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone made a SRD replacement box using the Lundahl transformers mentioned earlier in this thread? If so how good are they compared to the trans in a SRD?

 AudioD_

 

The Lundahls should be a lot better and ISO transformers would be even better but this costs alot. I would like to try the transformers from the ESP9's /E.9 since they are almost twice as big as the Stax ones. The adapter as a whole is a terrible mess of wires and connectors but the transformers could be good. 

 At first glans it seems that the pin out of the ESP9 is the following with the single pin on top. Top pin is the bias, middle row is the right side + and - and the bottom row is the left + and -. The phase doesn't really matter all that much here but I will make an adapter tomorrow to try it out. If this works then the next project is the Beyer ET1000...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 was the first one with the 230v bias. I thought that the SR-3 New was it but the set I picked up this morning had the original manual and it says 200v. I think that the SRD-6 was the first adapter with 230v bias because the manual for the SR-3 New also has a chapter on the SRD-5 and the SRA-3S so I would assume they were also 200v._

 

Interesting. If the SRA-3S is 200v, then that would make all of Stax's tube-based amps 200v also.

  Quote:


 If this works then the next project is the Beyer ET1000... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I want an ET1000, too, so we might end up in a bidding war. Best of luck.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. If the SRA-3S is 200v, then that would make all of Stax's tube-based amps 200v also


 I want an ET1000, too, so we might end up in a bidding war. Best of luck._

 

By all I take it you mean pre T1. According to the SR-3 manual the maximum voltage swing for the SRA-3S is 270v so a 200v bias seems reasonable. 

 No bidding war here. My set arrived today at the customs office and I can go pick them up when I have time. They didn't come with an adapter but I have already bought a DIN 6 pin socket for them so they will be Staxified...


----------



## audiod

Need Help. I have a Lambda and Lambda Pro. I have been looking for a second Lambda Pro but the used prices for these is out of control. Has anybody compared the SR-202 phone to the Lambda Pro? I am aware that the 202 only comes as a system. I'm not interested in the 303 or 404. I had a 4040 system that I sold a few years ago. I prefered the sound of the Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro system.
 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By all I take it you mean pre T1. According to the SR-3 manual the maximum voltage swing for the SRA-3S is 270v so a 200v bias seems reasonable._

 

I meant their all-tube amps, not the 3S, T1/006t, and T2.

  Quote:


 No bidding war here. My set arrived today at the customs office and I can go pick them up when I have time. They didn't come with an adapter but I have already bought a DIN 6 pin socket for them so they will be Staxified... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Oh bugger, how did that one slip past me. No matter. I'd love to know the correct bias voltage of these.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to try the transformers from the ESP9's /E.9 since they are almost twice as big as the Stax ones. The adapter as a whole is a terrible mess of wires and connectors but the transformers could be good. 

 At first glans it seems that the pin out of the ESP9 is the following..._

 

spritzer,
 I have a spare E/9 energizer that hums, but I'm sure the trans are good. Thanks thats a good idea. Also thanks for the ESP-9 pin out. Do you know the bias voltage on the E/9?

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I meant their all-tube amps, not the 3S, T1/006t, and T2._

 

Ok, now I'll have to find some of the older stuff to try out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh bugger, how did that one slip past me. No matter. I'd love to know the correct bias voltage of these._

 

There will always be another one. I'm going to run them out of a normal bias socket. Stax was (and is) the trend setter in this marketplace and almost every body copied from them. Suprex even copied the driver housings down to the last detail. All I know about the ET1000 is that the transformer stepup ratio is 1:25 so the bias should be around 200v.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, now I'll have to find some of the older stuff to try out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Good luck on that one. T2s come up for sale more often than they do.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer,
 I have a spare E/9 energizer that hums, but I'm sure the trans are good. Thanks thats a good idea. Also thanks for the ESP-9 pin out. Do you know the bias voltage on the E/9?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can fix the hum issue by replacing all diodes and caps. There is quite a bit of information over on Headwize on this issue though no one there has got the correct speaker wiring. The pin out is untested and I do not know how all of the circuitry inside the cups will affect a Stax amp. I will put an IEC connector on the E.9 soon so I can measure the active bias since it is supposed to be higher then the self biased. 

 BTW. Is there anyone that has any pictures of the inside of a 240v E.9? Mine is a 115v and I'm not sure how it can be changed and it is such a rats nest of wires I'd like to have something to work from. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good luck on that one. T2s come up for sale more often than they do._

 

Waiting is half the fun...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW. Is there anyone that has any pictures of the inside of a 240v E.9? Mine is a 115v and I'm not sure how it can be changed and it is such a rats nest of wires I'd like to have something to work from._

 

http://www.thismanwillkillyou.com/bu...i/DSC00035.JPG


 Thats the only one I have uploaded to hand, although I appreciate it may not be useful. Ill have a look through my files for more, but I suspect I never took any detailed pictures of the interior.


----------



## NeilPeart

I'm very curious regarding these SRDs - I would like to drive an SR-Lambda Signature (one just sold on eBay for $400, BTW) but which SRD to buy? Does the SRD-7 (standard) lack the Pro output?


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NeilPeart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very curious regarding these SRDs - I would like to drive an SR-Lambda Signature (one just sold on eBay for $400, BTW) but which SRD to buy? Does the SRD-7 (standard) lack the Pro output?_

 

You'll need a SRD-7 mk2. The normal SRD-7 only has normal bias. I'm sure there are a few others with Pro bias outputs, but they're not as common as the normal biased ones.

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wasn't saying stats are sonically neutral. I was saying the things that make then not sonically neutral has very little to do with the driver.

 Here's a little experiment to try. Fiddle around with an equalizer (borrow one if you don't have one), and try to EQ one electrostatic mirror the FR of a different electrostatic headphone. While you can't fully get rid of bass roll-offs and the like, you can get them pretty impressively close in sound. You can't make a dynamic headphone sound like a 'stat with EQ, though._

 

That's a bit like saying a particular cone material is sonically neutral but it becomes coloured once you add a magnet, a surround, a frame, a box, etc. The point is that stat drivers (which I disagree are _inherently_ sonically neutral - how do you make every point move in sync with every other point?) come with stators, frame, housing, etc, and so you're listening to a complex that is in most cases far from sonically neutral.

 Your experiment is interesting if somewhat skewed. You say EQ'ing different stats can make them sound very close in sound. First of all, if this is true then you have no need to go for an Omega or an Orpheus: just get the cheapest stat phone you can buy and add an equalizer. Secondly, you say you can't equalize a dynamic to sound like a stat but the converse is true: you can't equalize a stat to sound like a dynamic, with all its strengths.


----------



## jjcha

Sigh. I've been out of the head-fi thing for a while, but I got the HE90 and Aristaeus in earlier. Been playing with them, plus a few other things...






 I will say, the iRiver + Dared + SRD-7 mk2 + HE90 sounds better than it damn well deserves to. We'll see at the end of the day which headphone remains standing. What can I say... I like all of them!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## smeggy

Good grief Jason! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There's a treat for these old eyes


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your experiment is interesting if somewhat skewed. You say EQ'ing different stats can make them sound very close in sound. First of all, if this is true then you have no need to go for an Omega or an Orpheus: just get the cheapest stat phone you can buy and add an equalizer._

 

To a point this is true. The difference in sound from a cheaper pair of electrostatics like a SR-5 compared to one of the big five electrostatics driven off the same amp isn't as large as one might expect. There are decently sized differences is character from headphones - the HE60 and HE90's diffuseness, the ESP950's snap, the Sigma's amorphousness, the 4070's solidity - which aren't really FR related but caused by the earcups, driver distance and angle, the amount of damping material behind the driver, etc.

  Quote:


 Secondly, you say you can't equalize a dynamic to sound like a stat but the converse is true: you can't equalize a stat to sound like a dynamic, with all its strengths. 
 

Agreed.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good grief Jason! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There's a treat for these old eyes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Heh, well I will say I wish I had a pair of Gammas here right now... out of some rigs, the HE90 kind of reminds me of them, but doesn't quite have the impact... 

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, well I will say I wish I had a pair of Gammas here right now... out of some rigs, the HE90 kind of reminds me of them, but doesn't quite have the impact... 

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

You could always try the circumaural pads on the SRX tweak.


----------



## Duggeh

Sweet picture. MY first thought was "yoink".


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could always try the circumaural pads on the SRX tweak._

 

That doesn't actually sound anything like my gammas. If I remove the padding it gets closer but still not very close for some reason. I did some listening over the weekend and the gamma sounds quite different to the X, I don't know if it's the really cheap housings or the cable but I couldn't get the X to sound the same as the gamma no matter what. The X is vastly better even though I thought they shared driver, now I'm not so certain even though they look the same. 

 Can't explain it but there it is. The gamma sounds off and hollow/boxy.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NeilPeart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very curious regarding these SRDs - I would like to drive an SR-Lambda Signature (one just sold on eBay for $400, BTW) but which SRD to buy? Does the SRD-7 (standard) lack the Pro output?_

 

Yes. There are four flavors of SRD-7 that I'm aware of. Small photos available on the Stax Brand History page.

 1) the first version, silver face, two jacks fed 230V of bias-- ie, the original, standard, non-Pro bias voltage. Bias circuit runs on mains power, 100--240v, 50/60 Hz.

 2) the SRD-7SB. Same as above, but black/grey face. Rectifies and stores up 230V of bias from the audio signal itself. No need for mains power, can be used anywhere in the world. I've never owned the Stax version, but Koss and Superex made self-biasing transformer boxes. My inexpensive Superex PEP-79 would occasionally run out of juice if I listened to quiet classical stuff over a long period and I'd have to crank the volume up momentarily to restore proper bias levels. Listeners to hypercompressed pop shouldn't have a problem.

 3) SRD-7 Mk 2. This is more or less the same box as the 7 (investigations and comparisons pending), but with a black face and a classic voltage multiplier circuit (looks like a bridge truss) added to give 580V from one jack and the normal 230V from the other. Mains power.

 4) SRD-7 Pro. Same as above but with two Pro-bias jacks.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_3) SRD-7 Mk 2. This is more or less the same box as the 7 (investigations and comparisons pending), but with a black face and a classic voltage multiplier circuit (looks like a bridge truss) added to give 580V from one jack and the normal 230V from the other. Mains power._

 

Just FYI - there is a silver face version of the SRD-7/mk2 - it's the one in the photo. But yeah, both need external bias but otherwise it looks pretty much the same as the regular SRD-7 - with some differences.... hang on...






 Also the speaker jacks on the back are diff (the mk2 have posts that take banana plugs, while the regular one are just for spades), and the fonts are different again...

 Heh, sorry... just happened to have everything on the desk right now as I'm playing with the gear...

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## smeggy

Damn Jason, you have the coolest toys. Who can blame you for playing, I would 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 How do the K1000s sound from the DARED? (if I can go OT for just a second)


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn Jason, you have the coolest toys. Who can blame you for playing, I would 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How do the K1000s sound from the DARED? (if I can go OT for just a second)_

 

It sounds "okay". What you would expect from a $200 amp. I had to do a lot to make it sound decent - and you need to be real careful as to your source and cables. At the end of the day, I'd say it's a bit better (though largely different) from a good T-Amp, but doesn't compare to things like that $500 integrated amp from Original or a Nelson Pass design...

 I find your comments on the Gamma interesting - when I first heard Nikongod's Gamma Pro, my thought was that it was somewhere between the SR-X mk3 and the original Lambdas. I didn't think it had quite the air of the Lambdas, but had a lot of the upfront punch of the SR-X - that it really was somewhere in the middle. Honestly, given I like both other cans a lot, I was intrigued by the Gammas... Plus they're comfy to boot!

 I do need to try the O2 pad mod on the SR-X... been meaning to, but I love the sound from them so much I'm afraid of changing it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just FYI - there is a silver face version of the SRD-7/mk2 - it's the one in the photo._

 

That's not silver, that's.. _champagne!_ And why not!

 The SRD-7 goes all the way back to 1971, according to the Stax site. I'm sure the transformers inside it were not state of the art, but it was built to a price, after all.

 Now, the question arises, has anyone tried a transformer box using small _toroidal_ transformers? Supposedly better HF response and all that.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To a point this is true. The difference in sound from a cheaper pair of electrostatics like a SR-5 compared to one of the big five electrostatics driven off the same amp isn't as large as one might expect.._

 

This is music to the ears of all "$300 is enough to pay for a goddam headphone" adherents!


----------



## Lloyd297

Neil Peart?

 The name rang a distant bell somewhere in the interstices of my cranium so I googled it and VOILA! 

 Could Head-Fi Stax-fan Neil be _the_ Neil Peart who drummed for the famous rock band, Rush?

 I keep on running into people who recommend that I listen to Rush, who I regret to say I have never heard. This generally occurs in the context of discussions about the cult 70's band, Pavlov's Dog, who I adore (Get their first two albums forthwith!) Anyway, apparently the singer for Rush sounds a lot like the male castrato (ersatz, of course) singer of Pavolov's Dog. So I must make an effort to hear Rush sometime.....


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It sounds "okay". What you would expect from a $200 amp. I had to do a lot to make it sound decent - and you need to be real careful as to your source and cables. At the end of the day, I'd say it's a bit better (though largely different) from a good T-Amp, but doesn't compare to things like that $500 integrated amp from Original or a Nelson Pass design...

 I find your comments on the Gamma interesting - when I first heard Nikongod's Gamma Pro, my thought was that it was somewhere between the SR-X mk3 and the original Lambdas. I didn't think it had quite the air of the Lambdas, but had a lot of the upfront punch of the SR-X - that it really was somewhere in the middle. Honestly, given I like both other cans a lot, I was intrigued by the Gammas... Plus they're comfy to boot!

 I do need to try the O2 pad mod on the SR-X... been meaning to, but I love the sound from them so much I'm afraid of changing it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason_

 

Well mine are the normally aspirated Gmmas which, I'd imagine, are not as good as the Pros. On the SR-X pad mod, I'm not sure what the Omega pads would do to the sound but with the SR-5 pads over the SR-X pads (they just slip over the lip) it doesn't change the signature at all, just give them better bass and body while keeping the rest intact so I feel it's $25 well spent.

 I'd like to hear the Gamma pro to see how they compare as I do like the Gamma, I like the SR-X more. Mebbe the Pro would change my view


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* 
_I keep on running into people who recommend that I listen to Rush, who I regret to say I have never heard._

 

Ever heard the old comedy album _Great White North_?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Neil Peart?

 The name rang a distant bell somewhere in the interstices of my cranium so I googled it and VOILA! 

 Could Head-Fi Stax-fan Neil be the Neil Peart who drummed for the famous rock band, Rush?

 I keep on running into people who recommend that I listen to Rush, who I regret to say I have never heard. This generally occurs in the context of discussions about the cult 70's band, Pavlov's Dog, who I adore (Get their first two albums forthwith!) Anyway, apparently the singer for Rush sounds a lot like the male castrato (ersatz, of course) singer of Pavolov's Dog. So I must make an effort to hear Rush sometime....._

 

I find it hard to believe anyone could have made it thus far and _not_ heard Rush, they are all pervasive


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is music to the ears of all "$300 is enough to pay for a goddam headphone" adherents!_

 

Yeah. 

 Beyond a point you start mainly paying for nuance, not any paradigm shifts. That said, I like nuance.


----------



## edstrelow

Interesting to see some discussion of the Jecklin Floats, Koss ESP9 and Stax SRX MkIII. I once had all of these at one time. In fact I had 2 pairs of Floats, one black and one silver.

 While none was supremely better than the other, they all sounded quite different. I preferred the Floats most, the ESP9 next and the SRXIII third. I probably listened to the 9's most because, I liked their isolation and they had better bass than the others. I sold the SRXIII's eventually, after I first heard the Stax Sigma at a dealer. I regret that somewhat, since I would like to hear them on the Stax SRA 12S amp, which I originally bought for the Sigmas and still have. 

 The Jecklins unfortunately kind of fell apart. The wire to the one of the stators came off and I couldn't solder it back one without melting the diaphrgam. The other one wasn't working either, for reasons I don't recall. I finally sold both pairs for about $40.00 to a guy who said he thought he could fix them. He called them "head Quads."

 I still have the Koss ESP9's though. Sound is hard to assess since I ill-advisedly gave them to an engineer who complained about a high frequency emphasis circuit, which he then ripped out. Unfortunately it made them sound somewhat dull afterwards. 

 I have tried to get the ESP 9' s to run off a Stax SRA 12S amp, without success and I can't see why since they still run off the transformer.

 Odd but I just got a new copy of Stereophile in which the editor talks about the richness of offerings in high end audio compared to 25 years ago. Of course this is not so in regard to electrostatic headphones, where we are forced to ramble on about the phones of our youth and see these designs go for increasingly high prices on Ebay.


----------



## evil-zen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't explain it but there it is. The gamma sounds off and hollow/boxy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Have you tried opening them up? Some pairs have a layer of foam at the back of the enclosure while some doesn't. I feel that if you remove the foam, the sound becomes airier and closer to the lambdas. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to hear the Gamma pro to see how they compare as I do like the Gamma, I like the SR-X more. Mebbe the Pro would change my view 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Once a upon a time, I had a Gamma but they went to heaven and later i bought a Gamma Pro. To my ears, the two sound very much alike. The biggest difference might be the pads in which the Gamma Pro is much superior and comfortable. 

 I have also tried placing the Gamma drivers in a SR-X enclosure. They indeed sound like SR-X. So no matter how similar they look, the Stax round drivers are actually the same.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.thismanwillkillyou.com/bu...i/DSC00035.JPG


 Thats the only one I have uploaded to hand, although I appreciate it may not be useful. Ill have a look through my files for more, but I suspect I never took any detailed pictures of the interior._

 

Thanks a lot for the pic. My unit is very different from your's since there are no transformers on the top of the main pcb but instead there is the bias pcb. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. There are four flavors of SRD-7 that I'm aware of. Small photos available on the Stax Brand History page.

 1) the first version, silver face, two jacks fed 230V of bias-- ie, the original, standard, non-Pro bias voltage. Bias circuit runs on mains power, 100--240v, 50/60 Hz.

 2) the SRD-7SB. Same as above, but black/grey face. Rectifies and stores up 230V of bias from the audio signal itself. No need for mains power, can be used anywhere in the world. I've never owned the Stax version, but Koss and Superex made self-biasing transformer boxes. My inexpensive Superex PEP-79 would occasionally run out of juice if I listened to quiet classical stuff over a long period and I'd have to crank the volume up momentarily to restore proper bias levels. Listeners to hypercompressed pop shouldn't have a problem.

 3) SRD-7 Mk 2. This is more or less the same box as the 7 (investigations and comparisons pending), but with a black face and a classic voltage multiplier circuit (looks like a bridge truss) added to give 580V from one jack and the normal 230V from the other. Mains power.

 4) SRD-7 Pro. Same as above but with two Pro-bias jacks._

 

There was also a SRD-7 Mk2 SB and the Mk2's had a better case made out of aluminum and better wiring. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah. 

 Beyond a point you start mainly paying for nuance, not any paradigm shifts. That said, I like nuance._

 

You are right that the old but well designed phones stand up to the new models today but there are a lot of very bad designs out there. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting to see some discussion of the Jecklin Floats, Koss ESP9 and Stax SRX MkIII. I once had all of these at one time. In fact I had 2 pairs of Floats, one black and one silver.

 While none was supremely better than the other, they all sounded quite different. I preferred the Floats most, the ESP9 next and the SRXIII third. I probably listened to the 9's most because, I liked their isolation and they had better bass than the others. I sold the SRXIII's eventually, after I first heard the Stax Sigma at a dealer. I regret that somewhat, since I would like to hear them on the Stax SRA 12S amp, which I originally bought for the Sigmas and still have. 

 The Jecklins unfortunately kind of fell apart. The wire to the one of the stators came off and I couldn't solder it back one without melting the diaphrgam. The other one wasn't working either, for reasons I don't recall. I finally sold both pairs for about $40.00 to a guy who said he thought he could fix them. He called them "head Quads."

 I still have the Koss ESP9's though. Sound is hard to assess since I ill-advisedly gave them to an engineer who complained about a high frequency emphasis circuit, which he then ripped out. Unfortunately it made them sound somewhat dull afterwards. 

 I have tried to get the ESP 9' s to run off a Stax SRA 12S amp, without success and I can't see why since they still run off the transformer.

 Odd but I just got a new copy of Stereophile in which the editor talks about the richness of offerings in high end audio compared to 25 years ago. Of course this is not so in regard to electrostatic headphones, where we are forced to ramble on about the phones of our youth and see these designs go for increasingly high prices on Ebay._

 

The Koss plug is the same as Stax uses but it isn't pin compatible. There is a lot of cuircutry inside the E.9 and I don't know how it affects the ESP9 and there is still more inside the cups.


----------



## spritzer

I've been studying the ESP9 this morning and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to Staxify them while allowing them to work with the E.9. The bias is fed to the front stator and the + and - to the diaphragm and the back stator. When I connect them up to the Stax standard I get huge amounts of distortion so a simple cable adapter is out of the picture. I did these experiments with the SRD-7 MK2 using the normal socket and it is clear they use a higher bias then 230v because the sound wasn't very loud but I didn't want to risk 580v on them. It would be easy to rewire them and bypass all of the electronics but since this set is in very good condition so I'm going to let them be. If anyone has a broken set that they want to Staxify, PM me if you have any questions. 

 Below is the pinout from the adapter side. 
  Code:


```
[left] R+ L+ R- L- BIAS[/left]
```

The speaker input isn't marked on the back but it is the following:

 White = R+
 Green = L+
 Red and Black are both - and can be connected to either channel.


----------



## Stereoholic

I'm dropping out of the "speaker" realm and going back to headphones. Used to have the Stax Lambda Pro and it's amp. Liked the Stax sound a lot but got obsessed with horn speakers and left it behind. Now selling off horns system and returning to something more reasonable.

 Planning on immediate purchase of Stax Omega II and SRM-007tA. Only other candidate that I've consider is the Sennheiser HE90 but I'm not finding any available and don't have the patience to wait for a "used" paid. Plus, I have always liked the Stax products.

 Questions:
 1. Find prices from Japan dramatically better BUT they are 100 volt units verse USA standard (I'm in Atlanta, GA area). 
 Advice on best way to address this issue would be appreciated. 
 I noted one dealer included a device to correct for the voltage difference.

 Is there any sonic difference with an adapter verse paying the USA importers their MUCH higher price for the 120 volt versions (finding system for about $3,000 in Japan)?

 Best Japan dealer?

 Best prices USA dealer, if such a beast exists?

 2. I've been obsessed with tube gear and found with my current system rolling tubes in the Audiopax 88 amp made a dramatic difference. 

 Any tube rolling suggestions for the 007tA?

 FYI: I'm planning on using the Alesis Master Link as my source and taking balanced signal out of it via Nordost Valhalla XLR balanced interconnects to the 007tA. (If you have not played with the Alesis it's is definately worth a listen. I use it to "remaster" store bought CD's. Import purchased CD into Alesis the burn a new "master" to a cyrogenically treated blank CD. Sonic improvement is dramatic! If you want more info, just ask me.) 
 To view my speaker based system go to:
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1176644109

 Also considering as an alternative to the Stax the Audio-Technica ATH L-3000 if I can find a new pair or as new used. Suggestions?

 Your suggestions are appreciated.
 Jack


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The X is vastly better even though I thought they shared driver, now I'm not so certain even though they look the same. 

 Can't explain it but there it is. The gamma sounds off and hollow/boxy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

smeggy,
 My SR-5's have SRXIII elements in them and they don't sound like my SRXIII at all. They have that same more hollow sound you decribe the Gamma's as having. Some phones like the Yamaha HP-1, Koss ESP-9, SRXIII put the element in very close direct contact with your ear's. Phones like the Lambda, AKG 701, Senn 650 create a large cavity around your ears. Sometimes (but not allways) I think the direct sound is truer to the original signal. Kinda like cuddling up to a pair of Quad 57's compared to listening to the ELS-63's in a larger room.

 Audiod


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting to see some discussion of the Jecklin Floats, Koss ESP9 and Stax SRX MkIII. 

 I preferred the Floats most, the ESP9 next and the SRXIII third. I probably listened to the 9's most because, I liked their isolation and they had better bass than the others. 

 I regret that somewhat, since I would like to hear them on the Stax SRA 12S amp, which I originally bought for the Sigmas and still have. 

 I have tried to get the ESP 9' s to run off a Stax SRA 12S amp, without success and I can't see why since they still run off the transformer._

 

edstrelow,
 I also have a SRA-12s (I plan on posting a comparo to the SRM-1mk2 Pro soon) that I love. It is a all FET device (phone, line & driver amp sections). It is great on the SRXIII, SR-5 and low bias Lambda's. With a Behringer DSP-8024 EQ in the tape loop I can make the SRXIII sound fantastic!!! Deep Bass.

 I am in the process of trying to get my ESP-9's to work with a Stax amp. I will keep you posted.

 AudioD


----------



## jigster

There's a Sigma (non-pro) with a SR12S on sale on ebay with a BNP of *Euro750*





 Wonder if its worth that kind of dough...


----------



## Duggeh

I saw that too. They are both in the most gorgeous condition though. The Sigmas have the original stand and everything.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting to see some discussion of the Jecklin Floats, Koss ESP9 and Stax SRX MkIII. I once had all of these at one time. In fact I had 2 pairs of Floats, one black and one silver.

 While none was supremely better than the other, they all sounded quite different. I preferred the Floats most, the ESP9 next and the SRXIII third. I probably listened to the 9's most because, I liked their isolation and they had better bass than the others. I sold the SRXIII's eventually, after I first heard the Stax Sigma at a dealer. I regret that somewhat, since I would like to hear them on the Stax SRA 12S amp, which I originally bought for the Sigmas and still have. 

 The Jecklins unfortunately kind of fell apart. The wire to the one of the stators came off and I couldn't solder it back one without melting the diaphrgam. The other one wasn't working either, for reasons I don't recall. I finally sold both pairs for about $40.00 to a guy who said he thought he could fix them. He called them "head Quads."

 I still have the Koss ESP9's though. Sound is hard to assess since I ill-advisedly gave them to an engineer who complained about a high frequency emphasis circuit, which he then ripped out. Unfortunately it made them sound somewhat dull afterwards. 

 I have tried to get the ESP 9' s to run off a Stax SRA 12S amp, without success and I can't see why since they still run off the transformer.

 Odd but I just got a new copy of Stereophile in which the editor talks about the richness of offerings in high end audio compared to 25 years ago. Of course this is not so in regard to electrostatic headphones, where we are forced to ramble on about the phones of our youth and see these designs go for increasingly high prices on Ebay._

 

Hi Edstrelow,
 Great to see someone else speaking out for the Jecklins too! "Head Quads" is exactly what they are! Really sorry to hear your's broke down. I preferred them over the SR-X Mk 3 too, but since I mounted Omega earpads on the SR-X (a huge improvement), I'm not so sure anymore.


----------



## audiod

I have been looking for a backup set of Lambda Pro's but decided that paying current prices and taking the gamble of buying used is not in the cards. I just ordered the SR-202's from AudioCubesII. I'm hoping they sound more like the Lambda Pro then the 303 or 404. When I get them I will be able to do a comparo of the Lambda, Lambda Pro, 202 & 404. Sounds like a all day event.
 Audiod


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Stereoholic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 Is there any sonic difference with an adapter verse paying the USA importers their MUCH higher price for the 120 volt versions (finding system for about $3,000 in Japan)?

 Best Japan dealer?

 Best prices USA dealer, if such a beast exists?

 2. I've been obsessed with tube gear and found with my current system rolling tubes in the Audiopax 88 amp made a dramatic difference. 

 Any tube rolling suggestions for the 007tA?
_

 

1. I don't know how audible the transformer would be. For Japanese dealers, Audiocubes, EIFL, and pricejapan come to mind.

 Elusivedisc.com has the combo you want at $3894 in the US (prices just went up a bit recently):

http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo....mber=STXSRS007

 Audiocubes has the same rig at $2999 from Japan:

http://www.audiocubes.com/category/H...Amplifier.html

 Buying from Japan made sense to me when Stax US was selling this rig for $6K. It's less clear now, since pricing is a bit more competitive. It's still a $900 difference, but you get US voltage, and support from Stax US. IIRC EIFL used to be able to provide amps at US voltages, but you'd have to contact Koji there and ask.

 The standout tube for the 007t to me is the Raytheon 6FQ7/6CG7 short plate made in Japan. I believe that the actual maker of the tubes was Toshiba (since I've seen the same tube under their name). This is not a simple replacement, as you will need a fairly well matched set of tubes, and will have to rebias the amp once you've changed tubes. Bias instructions have been posted, and the search function should find them.


----------



## Goosepond

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been looking for a backup set of Lambda Pro's but decided that paying current prices and taking the gamble of buying used is not in the cards. I just ordered the SR-202's from AudioCubesII. I'm hoping they sound more like the Lambda Pro then the 303 or 404. When I get them I will be able to do a comparo of the Lambda, Lambda Pro, 202 & 404. Sounds like a all day event.
 Audiod_

 

Could someone give me the link to the AudioCubesII site?

 Thanks,

 Gene


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Goosepond* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone give me the link to the AudioCubesII site?

 Thanks,

 Gene_

 

www.audiocubes2.com

 Audiod


----------



## audiod

Well, I did it!
 I took one of my ESP-9’s apart. The foam damping is rotten and gooey. The diaphragm is quite large. The diaphragm conductive coating appears to be a hand painted on silver oxide (probably similar to the Quad ESL57. There is another diaphragm used as a dust shield that is between the active diaphragm and inner stator (strange). The back wave first goes through a felt layer then some paper tissue then the foam. The whole design looks extremely well engineered. The stators are a perforated copper colored metal plates that are mounted to the injection molded frame. It feels very rigid and well damped. Because the foam is sticky it is going to be difficult (maybe impossible) to clean off the assembly without getting particles between the inner stator and the dust shield.

 AudioD


----------



## Stereoholic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. I don't know how audible the transformer would be. For Japanese dealers, Audiocubes, EIFL, and pricejapan come to mind.

 Elusivedisc.com has the combo you want at $3894 in the US (prices just went up a bit recently):

http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo....mber=STXSRS007

 Audiocubes has the same rig at $2999 from Japan:

http://www.audiocubes.com/category/H...Amplifier.html

 Buying from Japan made sense to me when Stax US was selling this rig for $6K. It's less clear now, since pricing is a bit more competitive. It's still a $900 difference, but you get US voltage, and support from Stax US. IIRC EIFL used to be able to provide amps at US voltages, but you'd have to contact Koji there and ask.

 The standout tube for the 007t to me is the Raytheon 6FQ7/6CG7 short plate made in Japan. I believe that the actual maker of the tubes was Toshiba (since I've seen the same tube under their name). This is not a simple replacement, as you will need a fairly well matched set of tubes, and will have to rebias the amp once you've changed tubes. Bias instructions have been posted, and the search function should find them._

 

Hirsch,

 Thanks for your comments. I pondered your thoughts and decided to buy from USA dealer. Got a fair price from Elusivedisc, Jason. They'll ship today and I'll have by Friday to start burn in over the weekend.

 Will look into rolling tubes in a couple of weeks once they get burned in.

 Thanks again,
 Jack


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I did it!
 I took one of my ESP-9’s apart. The foam damping is rotten and gooey. The diaphragm is quite large. The diaphragm conductive coating appears to be a hand painted on silver oxide (probably similar to the Quad ESL57. There is another diaphragm used as a dust shield that is between the active diaphragm and inner stator (strange). The back wave first goes through a felt layer then some paper tissue then the foam. The whole design looks extremely well engineered. The stators are a perforated copper colored metal plates that are mounted to the injection molded frame. It feels very rigid and well damped. Because the foam is sticky it is going to be difficult (maybe impossible) to clean off the assembly without getting particles between the inner stator and the dust shield.

 AudioD




_

 

This is what I've been looking at all day. The foam in my set is charcoal gray and it has turned into the same oily goo that destroyed the electronics in my ESP6. I haven't dug this deep though because putting the ESP6 together wasn't a very pleasant experience and I can make most measurements on the outside of the drivers. The drivers appear to be the exact same design as the original ESP6 driver though I'm pretty sure that Koss used thicker stator spacers and increased the bias voltage. 

 I've installed an IEC socket on the E.9 and it has a low level hum in AC mode so it isn't usable. 

 BTW. The Quad ESL used diluted nylon as conductive coating.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it is clear they use a higher bias then 230v because the sound wasn't very loud but I didn't want to risk 580v on them._

 

It wouldn't surprise me at all if it was higher bias. The ESP950 uses 600v, higher than any other headphone.

 Have you tried measuring the voltage coming out of their transformer box?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Stereoholic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm dropping out of the "speaker" realm and going back to headphones. Used to have the Stax Lambda Pro and it's amp. Liked the Stax sound a lot but got obsessed with horn speakers and left it behind. Now selling off horns system and returning to something more reasonable.

 Planning on immediate purchase of Stax Omega II and SRM-007tA. Only other candidate that I've consider is the Sennheiser HE90 but I'm not finding any available and don't have the patience to wait for a "used" paid. Plus, I have always liked the Stax products.

 Questions:
 1. Find prices from Japan dramatically better BUT they are 100 volt units verse USA standard (I'm in Atlanta, GA area). 
 Advice on best way to address this issue would be appreciated. 
 I noted one dealer included a device to correct for the voltage difference.

 Is there any sonic difference with an adapter verse paying the USA importers their MUCH higher price for the 120 volt versions (finding system for about $3,000 in Japan)?

 Best Japan dealer?

 Best prices USA dealer, if such a beast exists?

 2. I've been obsessed with tube gear and found with my current system rolling tubes in the Audiopax 88 amp made a dramatic difference. 

 Any tube rolling suggestions for the 007tA?

 FYI: I'm planning on using the Alesis Master Link as my source and taking balanced signal out of it via Nordost Valhalla XLR balanced interconnects to the 007tA. (If you have not played with the Alesis it's is definately worth a listen. I use it to "remaster" store bought CD's. Import purchased CD into Alesis the burn a new "master" to a cyrogenically treated blank CD. Sonic improvement is dramatic! If you want more info, just ask me.) 
 To view my speaker based system go to:
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1176644109

 Also considering as an alternative to the Stax the Audio-Technica ATH L-3000 if I can find a new pair or as new used. Suggestions?

 Your suggestions are appreciated.
 Jack_

 

A lot of us import Stax headphones from Japan. The process is quite easy.

 Stax amps will either need to be run through a stepdown transformer, or find someone very well versed in electronics to modify them to 115v.

 Another option would be to not buy one of Stax's amps at all, and buy one of the "cottage industry" made electrostatic headphone amps available. Tube-based examples are:
 Singlepower ES-1 ($4k-11k depending on options)
 McAlister Audio EA-1/4/6 (~$800-$1300)
 Woo Audio GES ($1250)
 Rudistor Egmont ($1700-5000 depending on options)

 I wouldn't take an L3000 over an Omega II personally.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a Sigma (non-pro) with a SR12S on sale on ebay with a BNP of *Euro750*





 Wonder if its worth that kind of dough..._

 

Nice condition, but still a few hundred too much.

 Of course, you could always throw an offer at the seller and see how he responds.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It wouldn't surprise me at all if it was higher bias. The ESP950 uses 600v, higher than any other headphone.

 Have you tried measuring the voltage coming out of their transformer box?_

 

I have made a few measurements with the multimeter but haven''t found it yet. I can't remove the main pcb from the case to retrace without totally dismantling it and I simply can't be bothered. This is a fairly complicated design and it is a rats nest of wires with AC power intersecting input wiring time and time again and every thing is tied back to the pcb to make assembly easier.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is what I've been looking at all day. The foam in my set is charcoal gray and it has turned into the same oily goo that destroyed the electronics in my ESP6. I haven't dug this deep though because putting the ESP6 together wasn't a very pleasant experience and I can make most measurements on the outside of the drivers. The drivers appear to be the exact same design as the original ESP6 driver though I'm pretty sure that Koss used thicker stator spacers and increased the bias voltage. 

 I've installed an IEC socket on the E.9 and it has a low level hum in AC mode so it isn't usable. 

 BTW. The Quad ESL used diluted nylon as conductive coating._

 

I recall some years ago someone reported, possibly on Headwize, that the foam backing on the ESP 9 deteriorated and caused the circuit board it sat on to short circuit. He had to fully clean the circuit board before the unit would work properly.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Stereoholic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Questions:
 1. Find prices from Japan dramatically better BUT they are 100 volt units verse USA standard (I'm in Atlanta, GA area). 
 Advice on best way to address this issue would be appreciated. 
 I noted one dealer included a device to correct for the voltage difference.
_

 

EIFL in Japan was able to provide me with a Stax 717 about 8 months ago, set for 117 volts. Audiocubes instead provides a transformer. Evidently you can reset some jumpers in most of the Stax amps to set them up for the correct voltage, but it is not as easy as it once was, where you just moved a plug. The newest amps apparently are even more difficult to adjust voltage. This is Stax' way of fighting the Gray Market distributers in Japan.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a Sigma (non-pro) with a SR12S on sale on ebay with a BNP of *Euro750*






 Wonder if its worth that kind of dough..._

 

I just looked for it and couldn't see it. Was it a buy it now?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just looked for it and couldn't see it. Was it a buy it now?_

 

Still there

http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-SIGMA-STAX-S...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ever heard the old comedy album Great White North?_

 

Surely Rush didn't record a comedy album? I've heard they were _very_ serious.......


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find it hard to believe anyone could have made it thus far and not heard Rush, they are all pervasive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You'd be amazed at what I _haven't_ heard. The thing is I never listen to the radio so I miss out on what everybody else is hearing. All I hear is what I buy and I tend to go for slightly out-of-the-way stuff.

 For instance, I'd never heard Pink Floyd's "Dark Side Of The Moon" until recently and that was only because they were virtually giving it away at the local CD-mart. And to be honest, I wonder what all the fuss is about. It's nice in parts but the "h-fi" recording I'd heard so much about is hardly in evidence. I wonder if people confuse the _effects_ with good sound. The actual sound of the voices and instruments is poor, as though the tape had been played too much. All those overdubs........

 Glyn Johns, who engineered some Rolling Stones recordings, criticized the Stones' recordings for their sound because he said they played the tapes so much that the harmonics were lost. One of the foibles of multi-tracking.....

 Back to live and NO OVERDUBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The campaign starts here on the (new) STAX THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Stereoholic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm dropping out of the "speaker" realm and going back to headphones. Used to have the Stax Lambda Pro and it's amp. Liked the Stax sound a lot but got obsessed with horn speakers and left it behind. Now selling off horns system and returning to something more reasonable._

 

My suggestion: stick with speakers but go for pro nearfield monitors. You can get the effect of cans listening in the nearfield with much better imagery, slam, and overall realism for a very reasonable cost. The other thing is how simple the system can be: you can run a powered monitor directly off your CD player. No preamp, no power amp!

 I've owned Lambda Pro's and now own Stax 404's and the JBL LSR 6328's just crush both of these. An absolutely huge, holographic soundstage, the sense of listening _directly_ into the recording (the instruments and voices so _right there _it's uncanny) , weight and transient punch with none of the overhang of the Stax and all for under three grand!


----------



## Downrange

I am sitting here, just really enjoying tonight's program on XM-Audiovisions. Yes, that's right, the lowly XM radio feed by satellite, hamstrung by bandwidth, compression, every form of evil known to audiophiles, and, it's ... just... delicious!! These Omega IIs are spinning a gorgeous sound field, with great imaging of this lowly signal source. Just feeding the Roady into SRM-007tII, nothing fancy. 
 It's amazing how much of music is just simple. Just being there, having the music available. I used to clean every record before playing with the VPI, carefully checking tracking angles and stylus force, religiously dabbing the little balls of dust off the stylus with Stylast, etc. It got to be so much trouble, I didn't bother with the MUSIC anymore.
 Here's to easily accessible content and "just OK" sources - if it means getting to more of the music. Save the "reference" stuff for another time.
 Loving these OIIs - even with mid-fi sources.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* 
_Surely Rush didn't record a comedy album?_

 

They did. Well, at least ten bucks' worth of them. And stop calling me Shirley.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* 
_I've heard they were very serious......._

 

Who? Bob 'n' Doug McKenzie? Nah.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recall some years ago someone reported, possibly on Headwize, that the foam backing on the ESP 9 deteriorated and caused the circuit board it sat on to short circuit. He had to fully clean the circuit board before the unit would work properly._

 

The foam caused every thing to oxidize it touched and there were even huge chunks of melted foam on the transformers when they had been driven to hard for a long time. The drivers had survived though so it's no loss to remove the 400gr. of electronics from the cups...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Have just spent the last couple of days (on and off, when I should have been working!) catching up with the SR-X vs. 404 thread (the pre-cursor of these Stax threads). Fascinating stuff!

 I see now how out-of-date were my earlier posts (about the SRD-6 [when driven by a decent amp] sounding better than the SR-1/Mk2): it was old news to most of you guys! Apologies to you lifers for being so shocked by what was to me, at the time, a real upset (I had wrongly assumed that the old transformers would be rubbish compared to the shiny new dedicated amplifiers).

 Anyway, looking at the photos towards the end of the SR-X vs. 404 thread, I see that the SR-X has just push connectors inside the casings (which are easy to open, just 2 screws). Has anybody tried soldering these (come on, Feckn Eejit, give it a go!)? Is there is any risk of the heat from the soldering iron affecting the diaphragms (assuming I'm careful!)? If not, why didn't Stax solder them originally?


----------



## spritzer

You have to be very careful when you solder near an electrostatic driver. A tiny drop of flux will burn right through the driver and can destroy it. It's much easier to manufacture something where you can have the parts ready in advance and just connect some connectors for final assembly.

 I've completed the adapter for the Beyer Dynamic ET-1000 and these sound great out of a normal socket. They fit my head like a glove and they are by far and away the most comfortable pre-Sigma phone around. The sound reminds me a lot of the SR-007, very even handed with good detail and slightly dark top end. The bass doesn't extend very far but it has a great kick and you can even listen to Iron Maiden out of these. I just wish Beyer had continued to build electrostats because these are by far my favorite non Stax stat. 
 Now for some pix...





 The cable and adapter





 The included schematic




 This schematic made the adapter possible. The ear pads are glued on with some very strong glue and I hasn't willing to rid them off since I don't have any spares. Then I found this stuck inside the user manual and it is even thorough enough to show the polarity of the headphone. The bias supply is a simple voltage doubler with zeners to step down the 220v down so the bias is in the 200v region. The phones use a standard 6 pin DIN plug that is readily available.


----------



## spritzer

I was taking some pictures for a friend and I thought you might like so see this one... 





Larger

 This is most of my collection but there are two phones missing that are out on loan.


----------



## milkpowder

I spy with my little eye, a pair of very, _very_ expensive headphones!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was taking some pictures for a friend and I thought you might like so see this one... 

 This is most of my collection but there are two phones missing that are out on loan._

 

Obviously not a married man, my Missus would kill me if, a) I had even a quarter of this lot, and b) I left them lying around on the floor like this! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 Crikey! I've just done a quick calculation: I HAVE got a quarter of this lot (at least in terms of number, if not quality) -- my Missus WILL kill me (if she ever finds out!).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, looking at the photos towards the end of the SR-X vs. 404 thread, I see that the SR-X has just push connectors inside the casings (which are easy to open, just 2 screws). Has anybody tried soldering these (come on, Feckn Eejit, give it a go!)? Is there is any risk of the heat from the soldering iron affecting the diaphragms (assuming I'm careful!)? If not, why didn't Stax solder them originally?_

 

Johnny Blue,
 Don't try to solder. If the push connectors are loose just crip them a little and put them back together. The connection to the metal ring that holds the diaphragm is a spring connetion anyway. It's not worth the gamble.

 Audiod


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've completed the adapter for the Beyer Dynamic ET-1000 and these sound great out of a normal socket. They fit my head like a glove and they are by far and away the most comfortable pre-Sigma phone around. 
 ...
 I just wish Beyer had continued to build electrostats because these are by far my favorite non Stax stat. 
 Now for some pix...



_

 

Great looking vintage headphone.
 Too bad most of the manufacturers have abandoned electrostatic headphones, and gone dynamic only. Beyer Dynamic, Sennheiser, ...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was taking some pictures for a friend and I thought you might like so see this one... 





Larger_

 

Woah! Lots of great electrostatic gear you have there.


----------



## aural-matters

I found out something interesting recently. I don't know if anybody else has experienced this, but I've been getting some crackling from my Stax-003 drivers of late, and I thought they were on their way out...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Fortunately it turned out to be my hair touching the drivers LOL. Hope that helps anyone who's experienced the same problem.

 -Steve


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aural-matters* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found out something interesting recently. I don't know if anybody else has experienced this, but I've been getting some crackling from my Stax-003 drivers of late, and I thought they were on their way out...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Fortunately it turned out to be my hair touching the drivers LOL. Hope that helps anyone who's experienced the same problem.

 -Steve_

 

I hope that's the hair on your head and not some wayward ear hair encroaching on your in-ear 'stats.....ewwww.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aural-matters* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found out something interesting recently. I don't know if anybody else has experienced this, but I've been getting some crackling from my Stax-003 drivers of late, and I thought they were on their way out...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Fortunately it turned out to be my hair touching the drivers LOL. Hope that helps anyone who's experienced the same problem.

 -Steve_

 

Bloomin' Hippy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Aren't 003s in-the-ear jobs? Got hairy ear syndrome? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 Apologies, thrice, you beat me to it!


----------



## aural-matters

Hehe don't worry it's not ear hair; if it is I've got real problems since I'm a teenager 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . I'm 16 so it's kinda long (long enough to touch the outer grilles anyway).

 -Steve


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My suggestion: stick with speakers but go for pro nearfield monitors. You can get the effect of cans listening in the nearfield with much better imagery, slam, and overall realism for a very reasonable cost. The other thing is how simple the system can be: you can run a powered monitor directly off your CD player. No preamp, no power amp!

*I've owned Lambda Pro's and now own Stax 404's and the JBL LSR 6328's just crush both of these. An absolutely huge, holographic soundstage, the sense of listening directly into the recording (the instruments and voices so right there it's uncanny) , weight and transient punch with none of the overhang of the Stax and all for under three grand*!_

 

*Anyone with nearfield monitors* - Can nearfield monitors provide the kind of orchestral sound resolution, detail, and refinement that's available from the best electrostatic headphones (e.g., O2 and HE90)? Must nearfield monitors be played exceptionally lound in order to sound good? Can such monitors be used in large rooms (i.e., in large free-space conditions), since their soundstage is much closer than typical home speakers? When used in large free-space conditions, how close should one sit to the nearfield monitors, and how far apart should they be?


----------



## Duggeh

A beautiful collection you have there Spritzer! Are those normal or pro Sigmas I see? The Sigma is the electrostatic headphone I want to hear most after the Jecklins.

 And aural-matters you long haired hippy, stop suffocating those lovely in-the-earspeakers!


----------



## aural-matters

Well they're not suffocating now I know what the problem is. They love me really... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Not sure if this is the right forum, but I'm looking for a decent interconnect to link my X-Fi Elite Pro and the Stax together. Looking to spend around £50 ($100 approx), and I'm hoping to bring the treble up a bit on the Stax. Any help is welcome.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A beautiful collection you have there Spritzer! Are those normal or pro Sigmas I see? The Sigma is the electrostatic headphone I want to hear most after the Jecklins._

 

He has Pros like me.

 If you want to pay for the insured return shipping, I'd be happy to lend you my pair.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great looking vintage headphone.
 Too bad most of the manufacturers have abandoned electrostatic headphones, and gone dynamic only. Beyer Dynamic, Sennheiser, ..._

 

It's a beautiful headphone in it's simplicity. There is something wrong with them because the Stax bias supply's can't keep them energized for more then 30 minutes and then the volume will go down. I'm going to build the Beyer supply tomorrow and see if it does a better job with its huge (comparatively) caps. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A beautiful collection you have there Spritzer! Are those normal or pro Sigmas I see? The Sigma is the electrostatic headphone I want to hear most after the Jecklins._

 

It's a pro. You can always spot a pro by the brown cable and headband. I'm also on the lookout for a Jecklin Float but I want the last version or the Purtscheller version if they were ever put into production.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My suggestion: stick with speakers but go for pro nearfield monitors. You can get the effect of cans listening in the nearfield with much better imagery, slam, and overall realism for a very reasonable cost. The other thing is how simple the system can be: you can run a powered monitor directly off your CD player. No preamp, no power amp!

 I've owned Lambda Pro's and now own Stax 404's and the JBL LSR 6328's just crush both of these. An absolutely huge, holographic soundstage, the sense of listening directly into the recording (the instruments and voices so right there it's uncanny) , weight and transient punch with none of the overhang of the Stax and all for under three grand!_

 

You don't really get the "effect of cans" from speakers because each speaker feeds both ears, thus turning a 2-channel mix into a 4-channel mix at your ears. I use Polk SDA speakers which attempt to suppress this effect, and when the suppressor effect is employed, the sound sources in the recording jump out at you, with a sense of a tangible presence in the room. I have always felt that they sound more like headphones.

 There is also the issue of noise, you don't have to blast the rest of the house with headphones.

 That said, these JBL's seem pretty interesting to anyone looking in that direction. I see that they come with some sort of frequency equalizing set-up. That alone can go a long way to making a system sound great. Most headphones have fairly wonky frequency response curves.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was taking some pictures for a friend and I thought you might like so see this one... 
 This is most of my collection but there are two phones missing that are out on loan._

 

I sense a missing Edgar Allan Poe Tale Of Mystery & Imagination about now.......


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Anyone with nearfield monitors* - Can nearfield monitors provide the kind of orchestral sound resolution, detail, and refinement that's available from the best electrostatic headphones (e.g., O2 and HE90)? Must nearfield monitors be played exceptionally lound in order to sound good? Can such monitors be used in large rooms (i.e., in large free-space conditions), since their soundstage is much closer than typical home speakers? When used in large free-space conditions, how close should one sit to the nearfield monitors, and how far apart should they be?_

 

The answers are yes, no, yes, and variable........

 Look, I've never heard the Omega but I have briefly heard the Orpheus; I own Stax 404's and X-III's along with a number of speakers (Apogee Stage, ProAc Response 2, Electrocompaniet Qube, D'Appolito Aria 5), several power amps (Krell, Nuforce, Bel Canto, Metaxas), two preamps (Electrocompaniet and Metaxas) plus 4 sets of interconnects (Transparent Audio, Luminous, Nordost Blue Heaven and Magic), plus sundry other bits of audiophilia and I'd throw the lot out for the JBL's. OK - I'd keep the X-III and the Apogee (plus a pre and power to drive them) because they do a couple of things perhaps marginally better than the JBL (although even here I'm not sure). 

 Resolution of the 6328 is at least as good as the Stax phones and psycho-acoustically it's considerably better. By this I mean that the perceived resolution is better because you're not only _hearing_ the fine detail; you're _feeling_ it too. It seems as if your attention is drawn to things that you feel viscerally. When I first got my 6328's I was amazed at what I'd been missing. The sound was so vivid and explicit I thought it was somehow faking it but experience has shown that they're actually giving out what's on the recording and that the rest of my gear is muting and subduing it. I can follow individual parts in complex pieces with an ease I've never felt before. I can follow every note and every nuance without the sense of covering up I get from the rest of my gear. With my other gear it's almost as if the louder instrument or voice is masking the quieter elements in the mix. Harmony vocals don't blur on the 6328; you can hear each individual voice although it still preserves the harmonic blend.

 But most of all, the sense of sheer weight, tangibility, and presence is a long way ahead of the phones. A few weeks after I got them, I was listening to the John Williams/Julian Bream "Together" CD and after a couple of minutes I was thinking "you know, if Williams and Bream were right here in the room, I doubt if it'd be any clearer or more vivid". I consistently get the sense I'm listening _directly_ to the instruments and voices and not to reproductions of same and I've only fitfully experienced this with any other gear.

 The JBL's are designed to have very little dynamic compression and you'll know what this means when you hear them. This means you can listen to them at quiet levels and they still convey the drama of the music very well. 

 However, a few caveats. In my experience audiophiles do not like music sounding too explicit. They prefer it sounding "delicate" and like to spend their time listening for "low-level detail", etc. The JBL's make low-level detail clear and unmistakable and this may deprive the audiophile of one of his greatest pleasures.

 Another thing: if you like stats for what I think they often do wrong, you may not like the 6328's. If you like to luxuriate in misty, vague, impressionistic soundscapes _all the time _you may not like the 6328's. If it's in the original recording they'll luxuriate with the best of them but if it ain't they won't fake it either.

 As for large rooms, they're designed to sound best well away from any walls.

 But listen first if you can. And also try other nearfields like Adam, Genelec, KRK (which surprised me with how good their budget monitor sounded). They may suit you better.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aural-matters* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well they're not suffocating now I know what the problem is. They love me really... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Not sure if this is the right forum, but I'm looking for a decent interconnect to link my X-Fi Elite Pro and the Stax together. Looking to spend around £50 ($100 approx), and I'm hoping to bring the treble up a bit on the Stax. Any help is welcome._

 

The Nordost Magic has lots of HF sparkle and is definitely elevated in this region. Should be within your budget.......


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Nordost Magic has lots of HF sparkle and is definitely elevated in this region. Should be within your budget......._

 

I'm not sure about the Magic, but alot of Nordost cables have very high levels of capacitance, which isn't really ideal with a capacitative speaker.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_edstrelow,
 I also have a SRA-12s (I plan on posting a comparo to the SRM-1mk2 Pro soon) that I love. It is a all FET device (phone, line & driver amp sections). It is great on the SRXIII, SR-5 and low bias Lambda's. With a Behringer DSP-8024 EQ in the tape loop I can make the SRXIII sound fantastic!!! Deep Bass.

 I am in the process of trying to get my ESP-9's to work with a Stax amp. I will keep you posted.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I found out, years after I first bought the SRA-12, that the power plug (which is not polarized) has a preferred position in a socket. I find a fairly signficant difference in performance, mostly bass and power handling, when the plug is in one way versus the other. One day I think I should replace the powercable with something better.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The answers are yes, no, yes, and variable........

 Look, I've never heard the Omega but I have briefly heard the Orpheus; I own Stax 404's and X-III's along with a number of speakers (Apogee Stage, ProAc Response 2, Electrocompaniet Qube, D'Appolito Aria 5), several power amps (Krell, Nuforce, Bel Canto, Metaxas), two preamps (Electrocompaniet and Metaxas) plus 4 sets of interconnects (Transparent Audio, Luminous, Nordost Blue Heaven and Magic), plus sundry other bits of audiophilia and I'd throw the lot out for the JBL's. OK - I'd keep the X-III and the Apogee (plus a pre and power to drive them) because they do a couple of things perhaps marginally better than the JBL (although even here I'm not sure). 

 Resolution of the 6328 is at least as good as the Stax phones and psycho-acoustically it's considerably better. By this I mean that the perceived resolution is better because you're not only hearing the fine detail; you're feeling it too. It seems as if your attention is drawn to things that you feel viscerally. . 

 However, a few caveats. In my experience audiophiles do not like music sounding too explicit. They prefer it sounding "delicate" and like to spend their time listening for "low-level detail", etc. The JBL's make low-level detail clear and unmistakable and this may deprive the audiophile of one of his greatest pleasures.

 Another thing: if you like stats for what I think they often do wrong, you may not like the 6328's. If you like to luxuriate in misty, vague, impressionistic soundscapes all the time you may not like the 6328's. If it's in the original recording they'll luxuriate with the best of them but if it ain't they won't fake it either.
_

 

It's hard to argue about equipment you haven't heard and I haven't heard these speakers. I have seen some other reviews and they are generally positive for "monitor use" which in my understanding means optimised for falt frequency response and power handling. Those are pretty good things to have in any speaker, but there is an issue about detail, which your descriptions seem to gloss over. For example, how do you feel low level detail viscerally? Listen at 120dB?

 However, I have heard the Stax SRXIII's which you consider to be in the running as good phones. In fact I owned them and long ago got rid of them. I know there are some fans of them here, but they lacked bass and had a honky midrange. Even run through a pretty good power amp and a transformer I wasn't impressed. At any rate they are 30 year old technology, using low bias and thick diaphragms. If those were my best stat phones, I would probably prefer speakers too.

 You mention the 404's, which are representative of modern stats, but don't say what you are running them with. They can be very good although the consensus is that the Omega is better, but at at about 8 times the price it should be. Most complaints about the 404 are about treble etch, and lack of mid bass. However, I sure wouldn't describe them as "misty...vague and impressionistic."


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have to be very careful when you solder near an electrostatic driver. A tiny drop of flux will burn right through the driver and can destroy it. It's much easier to manufacture something where you can have the parts ready in advance and just connect some connectors for final assembly._

 


 I had a look inside the SR-X Mk3s last night, and mine have the capacitor (resistor? don't know!) like the 'blue-thingummy' in the earlier picture on the other thread. (Picture attached - click below - I don't know how you guys get the snaps to be in the posting itself: do you have to upload the photo to head-fi first, to get the http:// bit?)

 Why might some have this 'thingummy' and some not, or is the photo without them not of an SR-X?

 And, I might add, it still looks quite easy to snip off the crimped connectors and solder them direct: the capacitor (or resistor or whatever it is) is soldered, so it can't be that heat transference will damage the diaphragm.


----------



## Carl

I must say, my wallet is rather glad I enjoy the Sigma Pros more than the Omega IIs.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a look inside the SR-X Mk3s last night, and mine have the capacitor (resistor? don't know!) like the 'blue-thingummy' in the earlier picture on the other thread. (Picture attached - click below - I don't know how you guys get the snaps to be in the posting itself: do you have to upload the photo to head-fi first, to get the http:// bit?)

 Why might some have this 'thingummy' and some not, or is the photo without them not of an SR-X?

 And, I might add, it still looks quite easy to snip off the crimped connectors and solder them direct: the capacitor (or resistor or whatever it is) is soldered, so it can't be that heat transference will damage the diaphragm._

 

Yep, yours and mine look the same. The Gamma cable is soldered on, with the resistor/capacitor thigy too so it looks like they decided soldering was a good ploy later.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, yours and mine look the same. The Gamma cable is soldered on, with the resistor/capacitor thigy too so it looks like they decided soldering was a good ploy later._

 

Yes, I might have a go at soldering my SR-X Mk3s: I've got all my soldering gear out at the moment (making some new DIN to phono interconnects with Van Damme OFC cable and Neutrik plugs - anything to squeeze a bit more into the SR-X Mk3s!). I reckon if I'm careful and put some card underneath, in case of flux dripping, I should be OK.

 By the way, does anybody know why in the photos on the SR-X v 404 thread
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...174766&page=13
 the SR-X doesn't have the 'watchacallit/thingummy' but mine and smeggy's does (and the pictures to which I'm referring are the ones linked in evil-zen's post, not the big ones actually in Tachikoma's post)?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I must say, my wallet is rather glad I enjoy the Sigma Pros more than the Omega IIs._

 

I need more time, more music and charge on the diaphragms but so far I'm preferring the O2s to the 4070s of which my wallet is also thankful for. They're definitely a lot more isolating though for sure.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, does anybody know why in the photos on the SR-X v 404 thread
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...174766&page=13
 the SR-X doesn't have the 'watchacallit/thingummy' but mine and smeggy's does (and the pictures to which I'm referring are the ones linked in evil-zen's post, not the big ones actually in Tachikoma's post)?_

 

Both of my SR-X/MK3's have a capacitor (or something) between the two stator connectors. No idea what it is good for...


----------



## spritzer

It's a resistor or something similar and it is also in the Lambdas and Sigmas. It's an overload protection for the stators. If you put a cardboard over the driver you should be fine but if you are going to solder the cable in place throw the stock one away. It's pure crap and it adds to the phones sibilant nature.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a resistor or something similar and it is also in the Lambdas and Sigmas. It's an overload protection for the stators. If you put a cardboard over the driver you should be fine but if you are going to solder the cable in place throw the stock one away. It's pure crap and it adds to the phones sibilant nature._

 

Throw the stock cable away???!! Surely not? What do you mean?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Throw the stock cable away???!! Surely not? What do you mean?_

 

I think he was talking about the resistor thingy.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he was talking about the resistor thingy._

 

But isn't it there for a reason? Or can I surmise that since some SR-Xs appear not have it (see above), it may be dispensed with?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Resolution of the 6328 is at least as good as the Stax phones and psycho-acoustically it's considerably better. By this I mean that the perceived resolution is better because you're not only hearing the fine detail; you're feeling it too. ._

 

I think that comparing headphones to loudspeakers is comparing apples and oranges. Even headphones like the AKG K-1000, Jecklyn Float and Stax Sigma do not place the image on a stage some distance in front of the listener like a loudspeaker. I think that if you compare your JBL’s to other Electrostatic loudspeakers (like Quad ESL57 or 63, Martin Logan CLS, Sound Lab…) you will find that they provide a more transparent and accurate window onto the original recording (good or bad). When evaluating the transparency of a system, program material is very important. Try using some of the recordings on the Mercury Living Presence, RCA Living Stereo, Decca, Chesky, Reference Recordings labels. A lot of Pop and Rock recordings are heavily processed and while they may be enjoyable to listen to they are not very usable in evaluating a system. I have a high quality 2 channel audio system but I still enjoy listening to headphones. It’s a different experience.


----------



## spritzer

I'm saying that the stock cable is crap and should be upgraded. The sr-lambda cable is good but the new extension cables should be even better. You can get rid of the resistor but I can't see any reason to do it. It isn't in the signal path and there is quite a lot more to upgrade before you do that. If you want an instant upgrade then remove the wool from the earcups. It makes a huge difference but then again it reveals the reason why the wool was there in the first place. 

 In ET1000 news I've built the bias unit in the Beyer schematic but the phones are still leaking bias. The problem is that I can't open the ear cups without destroying the pads so they'll just have to be like this.


----------



## ferrstein

Well, I can never seem to fit my posts on this thread into the current conversation... so this is another off-topic post. But, since it is Stax related, I suppose it sort of fits! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, I posted a quick-and-dirty webpage of my Stax gear. It has pictures of the pad replacement of my Sigmas, and pictures of the pad and headband replacement of my Lambdas. I just thought some of you may be interested in the pictures...

http://ferrstein.com/headphones.htm

 Happy Listening!


----------



## spritzer

Great site you've got there. I would like to point out one error that Stax introduced the SR-1 (the first ear speaker) in 1959 and it started production in 1960 so better make that 50's instead of 70's in the first line...


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great site you've got there. I would like to point out one error that Stax introduced the SR-1 (the first ear speaker) in 1959 and it started production in 1960 so better make that 50's instead of 70's in the first line... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thanks! Yep, I should've fact-checked that a bit more (meaning some!). I will change that. I almost put 60's on there... I had no idea they dated back to the '50s!


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I think that comparing headphones to loudspeakers is comparing apples and oranges..._

 

This can't be repeated often enough, at least until people stop comparing listening to recordings, _99.9 % of which were made for speaker listening_, on headphones and then declaring that yup, speakers are better-- without reporting on the results of the reverse situation, binaural recordings on speakers versus headphones.

 It used to be that buying the SR-X was the only way to enjoy truly high-end sound without spending tens of thousands of dollars. Today things are a bit different. We're lucky enough to be able to afford both and enjoy both. But we shouldn't compare the two styles of listening based solely on recordings where image placement is largely done through intensity differences. This is as good a place as any to point to the quixotic efforts of Ralph Glasgal to make a hybrid cross of the two ways of listening. To say that it's not for everybody is an understatement. But his heroic efforts are a good tutorial on the differences between the two estates.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This can't be repeated often enough, at least until people stop comparing listening to recordings, 99.9 % of which were made for speaker listening, on headphones and then declaring that yup, speakers are better-- without reporting on the results of the reverse situation, binaural recordings on speakers versus headphones.

 ._

 

wualta,
 I would think that a binaural recording made with a true dummy head with lifelike ears with a pair of DPA microphones played back on Stax SR-003’s would be scary fantastic! That would probably put any 2 channel audio system to shame.

 AudioD


----------



## Duggeh

Multichannel DVD-A and SACD, let alone normal DVD need more Dolby headphone or binaural tracks IMHO.

 Only 2 dvds I can think of have a dolby headphoen track. Pearl Harbour and T2- R2 Ultimate with WMP9 HD.

 And lets be honest. No amount of dolby headphone tracks or free included stax headphones is going to get me to watch Pearl Harbour again.


----------



## BluePhone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The answers are yes, no, yes, and variable........

 Another thing: if you like stats for what I think they often do wrong, you may not like the 6328's. If you like to luxuriate in misty, vague, impressionistic soundscapes all the time you may not like the 6328's. ._

 

I don't know which stats you are referring to with the above comment, but there is nothing misty, vague or impressionistic about the music I hear when I listen to my Staxen.


----------



## d-cee

just a question before i get a serious case of buyer's remorse

 in the opinion of the experienced stax users who've heard these setups or parts of this setup,

 would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???

 cost taken out of the equation which would you prefer?

 thanks!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just a question before i get a serious case of buyer's remorse

 in the opinion of the experienced stax users who've heard these setups or parts of this setup,

 would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???

 cost taken out of the equation which would you prefer?

 thanks!_

 

Well I haven't heard the 323 or it's predecessor the 313, but I will say that I wold take the Lambda Pro over the 404.


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I haven't heard the 323 or it's predecessor the 313, but I will say that I wold take the Lambda Pro over the 404._

 

really?

 for some reason just looking at the current and old lineups, i was made to believe that the Lambda Signatures are equivalent to today's SR-404 and the Lambda Pro was equivalent to today's SR-303

 i know a lot of people prefer the vintage stuff, but like, did the old Lambda series actually sound better or is it a case of sentimentality and stuff...??


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_in the opinion of the experienced stax users who've heard these setups or parts of this setup,

 would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???

 cost taken out of the equation which would you prefer?

 thanks!_

 

I have both and would take the Lambda Pro over the 404.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And lets be honest. No amount of dolby headphone tracks or free included stax headphones is going to get me to watch Pearl Harbour again._

 

Tora! Tora! Tora! was way better. I'd pay for a Dolby Headphone mix of that.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just a question before i get a serious case of buyer's remorse

 in the opinion of the experienced stax users who've heard these setups or parts of this setup,

 would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???

 cost taken out of the equation which would you prefer?

 thanks!_

 

Well, quite a few people prefer the more airy character of the LPs over the 4030 combo. But even if you don't, I have a suspicion that a WTT in the for sale section might be able to net you a 4030 combo in exchange for them.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's hard to argue about equipment you haven't heard and I haven't heard these speakers. I have seen some other reviews and they are generally positive for "monitor use" which in my understanding means optimised for falt frequency response and power handling. Those are pretty good things to have in any speaker, but there is an issue about detail, which your descriptions seem to gloss over. For example, how do you feel low level detail viscerally? Listen at 120dB?

 However, I have heard the Stax SRXIII's which you consider to be in the running as good phones. In fact I owned them and long ago got rid of them. I know there are some fans of them here, but they lacked bass and had a honky midrange. Even run through a pretty good power amp and a transformer I wasn't impressed. At any rate they are 30 year old technology, using low bias and thick diaphragms. If those were my best stat phones, I would probably prefer speakers too.

 You mention the 404's, which are representative of modern stats, but don't say what you are running them with. They can be very good although the consensus is that the Omega is better, but at at about 8 times the price it should be. Most complaints about the 404 are about treble etch, and lack of mid bass. However, I sure wouldn't describe them as "misty...vague and impressionistic."_

 

Given that you rate the Sigma so highly, and _that's_ a thirty-year-old phone, this is very interesting......

 BTW you _did_ read the other equipment I own, most of which is far newer than thirty-years? And I _do_ own the 404, Stax's _current_ #2 phone complete with matching 006t amp, and I'm sorry but the X-III is a far more accurate and detailed phone - at least from 100-5000 Hz. Somebody obviously forgot to tell it that it's thirty years old and it should curl up its toes and die in embarrassment.......

 Low-level detail does sound visceral through the JBL's in a way it doesn't through the phones and I'm not listening at lease-breaking levels. For instance, a brushed cymbal will sound palpable in the same way it does live. If you hear live instruments you will sense that the sound is still _physical_ even when it's very soft. This is one of the things I've been trying to replicate for years. And the stat phones do _not_ do it, although the X-III comes a damn sight closer than the Lambda or the 404.

 You say I gloss over the question of detail but what does all the descriptions of how easily it is to follow the instruments and voices entail?


----------



## mingde10467

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wualta,
 I would think that a binaural recording made with a true dummy head with lifelike ears with a pair of DPA microphones played back on Stax SR-003’s would be scary fantastic! That would probably put any 2 channel audio system to shame.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't know if it would put a good two-channel system to shame, but the following binaural recording is astonishing through the 003s. In particular, try the last movement, "Peaux":

 Iannis Xenakis
_Pleiades_
 Les Percussions de Strasbourg
 Harmonia Mundi HMC 905185
 ADD

 As music, this may not be to everyone's tastes. It's very likely still in print.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that comparing headphones to loudspeakers is comparing apples and oranges. Even headphones like the AKG K-1000, Jecklyn Float and Stax Sigma do not place the image on a stage some distance in front of the listener like a loudspeaker. I think that if you compare your JBL’s to other Electrostatic loudspeakers (like Quad ESL57 or 63, Martin Logan CLS, Sound Lab…) you will find that they provide a more transparent and accurate window onto the original recording (good or bad). ._

 

Sure, domestic speakers do sound radically different from headphones, especially at typical listening distances of 9-12 feet, but we're talking about pro _nearfields_ here. The sound in the nearfield is very close to headphones in its proximity and sense of intimacy.

 As for the stats being more accurate and transparent I have had Quad, Stax, and Final stats in my listening room, I have heard Martin-Logans in various stores, I own two sets of Stax stat phones (which are _at least _the equal of the speakers you mention in transparency), I own Apogee ribbon speakers which are generally considered near SOTA in terms of panel resolution and I will put one hand on my heart, the other on the Bible, and swear you can hear a lot more of what's on the recording and exactly what and how the musicians are playing through the 6328's.....


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BluePhone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know which stats you are referring to with the above comment, but there is nothing misty, vague or impressionistic about the music I hear when I listen to my Staxen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Well, if you're talking about Lambda's you're obviously acclimatized so much to their particular idiosyncracies that you don't even notice it any more........

 The X-III isn't misty-sounding but the Sigma is extremely distant and vague. The Lambda comes somewhere between the two.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if you're talking about Lambda's you're obviously acclimatized so much to their particular idiosyncracies that you don't even notice it any more........

 The X-III isn't misty-sounding but the Sigma is extremely distant and vague. The Lambda comes somewhere between the two._

 

There's nothing vague sounding about the Sigma Pro in my setup. It's not without its flaws, but being vaguish isn't one of them.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's nothing vague sounding about the Sigma Pro in my setup. It's not without its flaws, but being vaguish isn't one of them._

 

Look, I've sat with people listening to speakers that make the vocalist sound as if they're singing from inside a cupboard, make snare drums sound almost completely lacking in snap and attack, and they remark on the sound as being "in your face" and too forward. And they mean it!

 And owners of old Quads completely dismiss any notion that their beloved 57's are lacking in bass. Doncha know that they're producing accurate bass and those huge boxes which are thumping out the bass and pummelling your gut are just faking it!

 And I've sat with people who own horns and there isn't a _hint_ of nasality or metal in the sound of their beloved horn! That is, if you take their word for it......

 What people own they very rarely seem to be able to have any perspective about. And when they hear something different they criticize it because it doesn't sound like whatever they own. So if you own Sigma's and think their highly-recessed mids are the bee's knees then X-III's will sound "honky". 

 Anyway, if you find "vaguish" so offensive, would "ethereal" and "delicate" make you feel better? I happen to like stats but apparently any pointing out of their obvious weaknesses is off-limits here.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look, I've sat with people listening to speakers that make the vocalist sound as if they're singing from inside a cupboard, make snare drums sound almost completely lacking in snap and attack, and they remark on the sound as being "in your face" and too forward. And they mean it!

 And owners of old Quads completely dismiss any notion that their beloved 57's are lacking in bass. Doncha know that they're producing accurate bass and those huge boxes which are thumping out the bass and pummelling your gut are just faking it!

 And I've sat with people who own horns and there isn't a hint of nasality or metal in the sound of their beloved horn! That is, if you take their word for it......

 What people own they very rarely seem to be able to have any perspective about. And when they hear something different they criticize it because it doesn't sound like whatever they own. So if you own Sigma's and think their highly-recessed mids are the bee's knees then X-III's will sound "honky". 

 Anyway, if you find "vaguish" so offensive, would "ethereal" and "delicate" make you feel better? I happen to like stats but apparently any pointing out of their obvious weaknesses is off-limits here._

 

I'm not trying to defend or knock down any headphone here, and I have the luxury of being able to compare Sigma Pro, SRXmk3, HE60, Omega II, ESP950 in the same setup. I don't know what setup you had when you reached your conclusions about the Sigmas, but the Sigma Pros, in my setup right now, do not sound like you're accusing them of.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???_

 

I don't think many around here have heard the SR-404 + SRM-323a system.
 I have the Lambda Pro + SRM-1/MK2 system, and it is really great. Have also heard the SR-404 + SRM-006t and SR-303 + SRM-313 systems.

 I prefer the Lambda Pro's over the SR-404, when both are driven by the same amplifier.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would a lambda pro + SRM1/mk2 sound better than an SR-404 + SRM-323a ???
 cost taken out of the equation which would you prefer?_

 

d-cee,
 I once owned the 404 phones with a 006t but liked my low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro’s better. I listened to the 404, Lambda Pro and low bias Lambda recently on my SRM-1mk2 Pro. As good as the 404 are they have a slight aberration (maybe a resonance) in the upper midrange-lower treble that is always present. You can hear it quite plainly on piano, female vocal or violin. If you don’t have the other phones to compare it’s easy to forgive them. I would give them a good listen before you make any decision. If you decide to sell your 404’s you should not have a problem on Audiogon. I wanted to buy a backup set of Lambda Pro’s but their used prices have gone through the roof. I ordered a set of 202’s hoping that they will be close to the pro’s. I was told the 202 has a different element than the 303 or 404. 

 AudioD


----------



## d-cee

i see... thanks for all the advice guys

 i'm actually getting the lambda pros + srm1/mk2 but was wondering if i should have saved up a little longer for a new sr-404 + srm-323 as there is NOWHERE in aus that will allow me to audition stax gear


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i see... thanks for all the advice guys

 i'm actually getting the lambda pros + srm1/mk2 but was wondering if i should have saved up a little longer for a new sr-404 + srm-323 as there is NOWHERE in aus that will allow me to audition stax gear_

 

I'd say that the lambda pro + srm1/mk2 is as safe a purchasing decision as it can get... as long as they arrive in good condition. The resale value sure isn't going down anytime soon.

 On an unrelated note, half the gear I brought to australia is suffering from defects. THANK YOU AIRPORT PEOPLE.


----------



## audiod

I just finished cleaning out all the rotten gooey foam from my ESP-9’s. I had to soak the circuit boards in alcohol. I replaced with 3 layers of a fine open cell foam. WOW! What a difference. If your ESP-9’s are spitty, lacking in deep bass, sound uneven in response and sound closed in you need to replace your foam. My memories of the ESP-9’s when I first purchased them back in 1970 was that they had deep deep punchy bass. That has returned. I was listening to Supertramp’s Something’s Never Change CD and it rocked my world. This is a great fun CD for headphones. Buy the way, the little $30 T-amp is terrible for driving the ESP-9’s E/9 energizer. Now it looks like I need to rebuild my other 2 sets. I’m not looking forward to that.

 Audiod


----------



## Stax-i-nox

Strange, I used to own a pair of Sigma Pro's and ran them through both Srm T1 and the SRM-1 MKII B series 117-225 Volts, 1988 vintage, but I could never get them to sound real enough. They always exhibited a warmness in the sound, and the bass was somewhat tubby. The highs were a bit rolled off as well. Maybe changing out the elements would have helped, or perhaps running them through a different amp? I'm a pro-musician, so I am used to having reproduced sounds from speakers and headphones sounding real and clear. The Sigma Pro's never did that for me. 

 The K1000 is a whole different story. They are so real and true sounding, it's uncanny, the total opposite of the Sigma Pro's, at least for my ears.


----------



## Downrange

Would appreciate some suggestions/experience with cabling the Stax amp to a DAC. Balanced cables - currently looking at a few possibilities:

 Blue Jeans Cable - Belden 1800F (13 pF/ft) 

 Blue Jeans Cable - same with Canare L-4E6S Star Quad (somewhat higher capacitance, values unknown)

 Silver Resolution Reference - (18.9 pf/ft) (already has one vote, thanks, Kai!)

 Any other candidates you can recommend? Also, is length critical? (There was one post somewhere that indicated longer is better with balanced; not sure I buy into that.)

 These will run from a balanced DAC to the SRM-007tII feeding Omega 2s.

 Thanks for any input.


----------



## smeggy

last night we had a party at work with a cool cover band in our indoor sports court and of course I was getting up front and personal with the music. Holy crap it was loud, dynamic and visceral 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Soo much fun, it was a total blast.

 It's been a little while since I was this close and I have to say, try all you like, you'll never capture that energy in headphones, not even a samll amount of it. For this type of music the K1000 is as close as I've heard for similar raw, upfront power play sound. The SR-X are pretty close but lack the AKGs level of crazy dynamics. Not bad for a crappy 30 year old inferior design with thick diaphragms and puny low bias. 

 Yeah right.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would appreciate some suggestions/experience with cabling the Stax amp to a DAC. Balanced cables - currently looking at a few possibilities:

 Blue Jeans Cable - Belden 1800F (13 pF/ft) 

 Blue Jeans Cable - same with Canare L-4E6S Star Quad (somewhat higher capacitance, values unknown)

 Silver Resolution Reference - (18.9 pf/ft) (already has one vote, thanks, Kai!)

 Any other candidates you can recommend? Also, is length critical? (There was one post somewhere that indicated longer is better with balanced; not sure I buy into that.)

 These will run from a balanced DAC to the SRM-007tII feeding Omega 2s.

 Thanks for any input. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm quite fond of thin, high purity silver.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm quite fond of thin, high purity silver._

 

Are these home-brew or factory, Carl? Does the Silver Resolution fit this bill (4 conductors, 80 5N Pure Silver strands each channel, effective gauge size per channel 21 awg). Or do you go even thinner than that?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are these home-brew or factory, Carl? Does the Silver Resolution fit this bill (4 conductors, 80 5N Pure Silver strands each channel, effective gauge size per channel 21 awg). Or do you go even thinner than that?_

 

I prefer to just buy the stuff from as high up the chain as possible. I'm sure you're aware that that retail prices for cables is boardering on daylight robbery.

 I have not heard of the Silver Resolution before. Is it litz wire or something?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I prefer to just buy the stuff from as high up the chain as possible. I'm sure you're aware that that retail prices for cables is boardering on daylight robbery.

 I have not heard of the Silver Resolution before. Is it litz wire or something?
_

 

http://signalcable.com/silverresolutionxlr.html

 At 139 bucks, not horrendous, although I'm sure someone might be able to beat that by home brewing.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just finished cleaning out all the rotten gooey foam from my ESP-9’s. I had to soak the circuit boards in alcohol. I replaced with 3 layers of a fine open cell foam. WOW! What a difference. If your ESP-9’s are spitty, lacking in deep bass, sound uneven in response and sound closed in you need to replace your foam. My memories of the ESP-9’s when I first purchased them back in 1970 was that they had deep deep punchy bass. That has returned. I was listening to Supertramp’s Something’s Never Change CD and it rocked my world. This is a great fun CD for headphones. Buy the way, the little $30 T-amp is terrible for driving the ESP-9’s E/9 energizer. Now it looks like I need to rebuild my other 2 sets. I’m not looking forward to that.

 Audiod
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

§

 Ooh, I am vastly impressed. I started out on the road to electrostatic headphones (this time, I used some at work many years ago) by wondering if I shouldn't build my own headphones. I couldn't find the pair of monstrously uncomfortable Bang & Olufsen headphones I thought to adapt for a first experiment, and then gave up the idea and bought Stax instead when I discovered how cheap they are if you shop right (PriceJapan). But after the dedicated amp for the electrophones I would still like build my own earphones just for the experience. I know that when I write about floorstanders I write mostly about my Quad ESL and ESL-63, because it is a stat thread, but I designed and built most of the rest of my speakers myself. Photographs like yours are a great help in visualizing the job. Thanks.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## spritzer

Always go with silver for the Omegas. I haven't heard the cables in question but they are cheap so go for it.


----------



## krmathis

I am very pleased with my 'Silver Resolution Reference Balanced' cable.
 Great sounding cable, with an excellent performace/price ratio for a non-DIY cable.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_§
 Photographs like yours are a great help in visualizing the job. Thanks._

 

Andre,
 Check out the pictures of the start of the ESP-9 project on page 9 of this thread.

 I was told that the Jecklyn Float headphone used a rectangular RTR electrostatic element. I see some of these panels on eBay once in a while. I thought it would be interesting to make a "home brew" version of the Jecklyn using the RTR panels.

 Thanks for the kind words.

 AudioD


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I was told that the Jecklin Float headphone used a rectangular RTR electrostatic element.._

 

I always thought of it as a Janszen module. Same basic design in any case. Did they really source the panels from RTR?

 Got a tube amp question for you tubers out there. A buddy of mine just got four (!) Antique Sound Labs Wave 8 monoblocks and I want to introduce him to the World Of Stax. Is it possible to connect an SRD-7 to monoblocks without causing problems?

 .


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought of it as a Janszen module. Same basic design in any case. Did they really source the panels from RTR?

 Got a tube amp question for you tubers out there. A buddy of mind just got four (!) Antique Sound Labs Wave 8 monoblocks and I want to introduce him to the World Of Stax. Is it possible to connect an SRD-7 to monoblocks without causing problems?_

 

I think that RTR licensed the technology from Janszen. I remember the square panel (like in the Janszen 130 or KLH 9) as a Janszen and the rectangular panel (like in the RTR ESR 6 & 15 and Infinity Servo Statics) as a RTR. I'm not sure if the Jecklyn Float has a square or rectangular panel.

 You can usually commom ground two mono tube amps together as long as the Black (or zero or negative) is a true ground. Some tube amps (like some old Audio Research) have a balanced floating ouput. I would check with the amp manufacturer first.

 AudioD


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I think that RTR licensed the technology from Janszen._

 

Not according to David Janszen. Apparently RTR was a usurper of sorts.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I'm not sure if the Jecklin Float has a square or rectangular panel._

 

The one I tried in the '70s was square. Who knows what happened after that?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_...I would check with the amp manufacturer first._

 

Thanks. We'll do that.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Stax-i-nox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Strange, I used to own a pair of Sigma Pro's and ran them through both Srm T1 and the SRM-1 MKII B series 117-225 Volts, 1988 vintage, but I could never get them to sound real enough. They always exhibited a warmness in the sound, and the bass was somewhat tubby. The highs were a bit rolled off as well. Maybe changing out the elements would have helped, or perhaps running them through a different amp? I'm a pro-musician, so I am used to having reproduced sounds from speakers and headphones sounding real and clear. The Sigma Pro's never did that for me. 

 The K1000 is a whole different story. They are so real and true sounding, it's uncanny, the total opposite of the Sigma Pro's, at least for my ears._

 

That's what I heard too, although I only heard the low-bias Sigma's. Maybe the pro's fill in the upper-mid recession.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been a little while since I was this close and I have to say, try all you like, you'll never capture that energy in headphones, not even a samll amount of it._

 

Which is why I think spending three or four grand on a headphone system is ludicrous because I happen to want my system to sound as close to live as possible. Anybody who thinks their Lambdas or Sigmas are accurately doing drums just go and listen close-up to a live snare-drum and swear the difference isn't _massive_.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not trying to defend or knock down any headphone here, and I have the luxury of being able to compare Sigma Pro, SRXmk3, HE60, Omega II, ESP950 in the same setup. I don't know what setup you had when you reached your conclusions about the Sigmas, but the Sigma Pros, in my setup right now, do not sound like you're accusing them of._

 

All of which are electrostatics. But if you think the Sigma's sound solid, weighty, and tangible in the definite way live instruments do it's alternative-universe time again. When I'm walking along the streets and I hear music coming out of a house or a building it's absolutely _primary_ most of the time whether it's live or reproduced. Live just sounds as if physical, weighty, tangible objects are producing the sound. Reproduced reduces this sense of sheer physical thereness by variable amounts and stats (especially speakers) particularly lose it. Which is not to say that the stat substitute for this isn't gorgeous........


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a tube amp question for you tubers out there. A buddy of mind just got four (!) Antique Sound Labs Wave 8 monoblocks and I want to introduce him to the World Of Stax. Is it possible to connect an SRD-7 to monoblocks without causing problems?_

 

Why not? My Nuforce Reference 9's are monoblocks (although not tubes).


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* 
_Why not?_

 

It's that grounding issue. Some amps don't like having their (-) sides tied together. Some (most?) don't care. And the problem just doesn't arise with "normal" stereo amps, with a very few notorious exceptions.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's that grounding issue. Some amps don't like having their (-) sides tied together. Some (most?) don't care. And the problem just doesn't arise with "normal" stereo amps, with a very few notorious exceptions._

 

I thought the SRD-7 have a balanced construction.
 Meaning that the left/right channels + and - signal pass trough, without being tied together. Am I wrong?


----------



## gordie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which is why I think spending three or four grand on a headphone system is ludicrous because I happen to want my system to sound as close to live as possible. Anybody who thinks their Lambdas or Sigmas are accurately doing drums just go and listen close-up to a live snare-drum and swear the difference isn't massive._

 

Sorry, if you are implying spending bucks on headphones is ridiculous because they don't have the slam of live drums, but spending bucks on a speaker based system is not, then I'm calling shenanigans.

 Having played in live bands for tens of years from symphony to jazz quartet to heavy rock, I'd say the same exact thing about speakers - they can't touch live. And I've heard some pretty mighty stereo systems in my day, costing upwards of $50 grand. Think they can touch the sound of a live snare drum? Not a chance.

 Speakers obviously have more slam and more of a live "room" sound than headphones, but all these systems are facsimiles, with their limitations. I love the sound of music on a good speaker system, love it through my headphone systems, and love it live. And they all sound different.

 And the converse is true too - live electronic music can't touch the intimacy and detail of headphones, but that doesn't make it ludicrous to go to hear live music.

 -- Gordie


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://signalcable.com/silverresolutionxlr.html

 At 139 bucks, not horrendous, although I'm sure someone might be able to beat that by home brewing._

 

Yeah. Looks okay. No idea how the sound'll compare to other comparitively priced cables, but it should at least be competitive. Capacitance and resistance check out fine. Buggered if I can remember a good benchmark for inductance levels off the top of my head, but it doesn't look outragious.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a tube amp question for you tubers out there. A buddy of mind just got four (!) Antique Sound Labs Wave 8 monoblocks and I want to introduce him to the World Of Stax. Is it possible to connect an SRD-7 to monoblocks without causing problems?_

 

Lucky guy. As long as they have conventional binding posts, then it doesn't matter if they're 'blocks or stereo amps. 8W/channel is on the low side, though. Or is he going to parallel them? If so, that might make for an interesting time when it comes to dealing with the ground path.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which is why I think spending three or four grand on a headphone system is ludicrous because I happen to want my system to sound as close to live as possible. Anybody who thinks their Lambdas or Sigmas are accurately doing drums just go and listen close-up to a live snare-drum and swear the difference isn't massive._

 

Of course, we all grok with different things. For me, music as a spatial event is all important, so my views will differ from those who consider visceral levels of tactility or ruler flat linearity as their sonic raison d'être. CDs with their disgusting amount of level compression don't generally allow for realistic reproduction of percussion anyway.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All of which are electrostatics. But if you think the Sigma's sound solid, weighty, and tangible in the definite way live instruments do it's alternative-universe time again._

 

Well, that was entirely intentional considering I was in that instance, comparing it to other electrostatic headphones. I'm completely aware that a different type of speaker will have a widely different timbre and it doesn't really bother me. I have enough money put away that I could go out tomorrow and buy a decent-but-not-outstanding quality pair of direct radiating loudspeakers. That doesn't mean I'm going to, however. Electrostatic headphones have significant technical flaws, but so does every other kind of transducer in existance, the flaws just reside in different areas. I just so happen to not be especially bothered by electrostatic headphone colourations (as a general rule, I don't like each and every pair of 'stats in the world of course) and to quite like their particular strengths. Flipped over, I find most direct radiating loudspeakers bore me to tears with their prosaicness, leaking all the soul and magic out of the music like a rusty pipe. They could be ruler flat and the weight of the guitarist's power chord could be just so, but even if that were to be the case, I could never forgive it for turning my music into mere sound, devoid of it's greater meaning. But that's just where I'm coming from, and each of us has our own take on these things. At the end of the day, nothing is perfect. The quest for perfection would be meaningless if it was within easy grasp.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought the SRD-7 have a balanced construction.
 Meaning that the left/right channels + and - signal pass trough, without being tied together. Am I wrong?_

 

Single ended input, balanced output. Just like the design for the Aristeaus that you're so fond of.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Single ended input, balanced output. Just like the design for the Aristeaus that you're so fond of. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Guess I have to read more of the differences between single-ended and balanced signaling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess I have to read more of the differences between single-ended and balanced signaling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Thanks!_

 

All balanced signals are is two near-identical single ended signals that are in opposite phase from each other.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All balanced signals are is two near-identical single ended signals that are in opposite phase from each other._

 

I sort of knew that. But thought there was something with common ground for single ended signals as well.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sort of knew that. But thought there was something with common ground for single ended signals as well._

 

There is nothing inherant to single ended signals that requires a common ground for multiple channels. In fact, it's a really dumb idea. The reason headphones keep using those nasty RTS phone plugs is simply a matter of compatibility.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is nothing inherant to single ended signals that requires a common ground for multiple channels. In fact, it's a really dumb idea. The reason headphones keep using those nasty RTS phone plugs is simply a matter of compatibility._

 

Thanks! Then I have probably been misinformed, or remember wrongly.

 I found what seems to be a great source of single-ended vs. balanced signal technology, which I will read and hopefully find useful: Balanced Line Technology


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found what seems to be a great source of single-ended vs. balanced signal technology, which I will read and hopefully find useful: Balanced Line Technology_

 

Although it's not really written from an audiophile's perspective, so things like the nulling of even-order harmonic distortion aren't covered.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought the SRD-7 have a balanced construction.
 Meaning that the left/right channels + and - signal pass trough, without being tied together. Am I wrong?_

 

I just checked the SRD-7 and it does NOT tie the Left and Right grounds together. It sould be fine to use any mono amps on them. The Koss E/9 does tie the grounds together.

 AudioD


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just checked the SRD-7 and it does NOT tie the Left and Right grounds together. It sould be fine to use any mono amps on them._

 

Thanks for clearifying!
 Then its just as I thought, that the two mono amplifiers will not see and hence have to way to interfere with each other.

 I used the word 'balanced' wrongly though...


----------



## wualta

Thanks, guys. Next time my friend and I get together, we'll try Lambda Pros on the Wave 8s and I'll report back. They sounded pretty good on a quick audition. I think I hear what the fuss is about, and the Wave 8 is a push-puller, not the now-preferred single-ended.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Andre,
 Check out the pictures of the start of the ESP-9 project on page 9 of this thread._

 

I saw that originally and had another quick look just now. But the electronics will give me no problem. What attracted me about the second set of photographs is something that you may take for granted, but that I find very illuminating, how you used the other parts for pattern-cutting in the foam. It's little details like that, blindingly obvious when you see someone else do it, that can hold you up for half a day of frustration until you work out the right way to do it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that the Jecklyn Float headphone used a rectangular RTR electrostatic element. I see some of these panels on eBay once in a while. I thought it would be interesting to make a "home brew" version of the Jecklyn using the RTR panels._

 

I thought of buying Stax replacement panel *assemblies* but making the film isn't actually as terrifyingly difficult as people make out. It just takes a little ingenuity and patience. Making your own allows you to experiment with the various elements you can alter, for instance the various distances between the elements. I have a router and an electric plane and the poly-something plastic (same stuff as waterpipes) I intend using for the layers and frames machines easily with those, including planing or sanding to any thickness required. I use water and gas pipes of that material in various diameters to knock up quick protos of big loudspeakers, up to the size of very substantial tapered horns, and the material is a pleasure to work with, to machine and to glue.

 But it'll have to be on the backburner as I must do casework for my Stax-driver amp first, and the design grew two more tubes in the last week, and I'm wondering if I should put a 300B PP amp on there as well, so that I can switch seamlessly between listening to earspeakers and to floorstanding ESL. I'm trying to reduce the amount of gear I own and consolidating two functions would be a start...

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## Zoide

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Neil Peart?

 The name rang a distant bell somewhere in the interstices of my cranium so I googled it and VOILA! 

 Could Head-Fi Stax-fan Neil be the Neil Peart who drummed for the famous rock band, Rush?_

 

Sorry, but *this* is Head-Fi's NeilPeart 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (sorry Leeav!):


----------



## Snacks

Portable K1000s...now I've seen it all!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Portable K1000s...now I've seen it all! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Next up, a portible Float Model 2 and Sennheiser Surrounder, driven balanced off a portible SDS-XLR.


----------



## facelvega

quick question all, would it be madness to accept an SRD-X when an SRD-7 would scarcely cost any more, assuming I've got the amp to put behind the seven? And can the SRD-X profitably be run off a better or higher voltage power supply than the wall wart it came with?


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_quick question all, would it be madness to accept an SRD-X when an SRD-7 would scarcely cost any more, assuming I've got the amp to put behind the seven? And can the SRD-X profitably be run off a better or higher voltage power supply than the wall wart it came with?_

 

You should probably stay with the input voltage of the wall wart. Mess with the voltage too much, and you'll start frying components. However, you can increase the amperage within reasonable constraints, since the amp will only draw the current it needs. The wall wart on the SRM-X I've got is 12v, 500 ma. I'm using a linear power supply of 12v, 3A. The extra power reserve adds some depth to the sound, which noticeably improves the amp.


----------



## Goosepond

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Next up, a portible Float Model 2 and Sennheiser Surrounder, driven balanced off a portible SDS-XLR._

 

I was trading emails with RWA's Vinnie about his iMod and he said he had a customer who took his iMod, Sig 30 and K1000's to the lake and relaxed to the music. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It really got me to thinking about a quality portable system.

 Gene


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should probably stay with the input voltage of the wall wart. Mess with the voltage too much, and you'll start frying components. However, you can increase the amperage within reasonable constraints, since the amp will only draw the current it needs. The wall wart on the SRM-X I've got is 12v, 500 ma. I'm using a linear power supply of 12v, 3A. The extra power reserve adds some depth to the sound, which noticeably improves the amp._

 

I have been doing the same thing to the Koss Esp 950 amp with comparable improvements in sound. As a minor tweak, I followed a suggestion by the Mapleshade people, to split the cables from a power suppy or transformer to the amplifier. ( I.E., the normal power cable is just 2 wires running parrallel to each other) and keeping them some distance apart for as long as you can. That plus checking the orientation of the power supply, (you can do this with an outboard power supply but not with a wall-mounted transformer) gives a clean-up of the sound. The explanation seems to be given in the very interesting site referenced above about noise in cables.

http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/ampin...d/balanced.htm


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if you're talking about Lambda's you're obviously acclimatized so much to their particular idiosyncracies that you don't even notice it any more........

 The X-III isn't misty-sounding but the Sigma is extremely distant and vague. The Lambda comes somewhere between the two._

 

I thought you had a 404 and SRXIII, not a Sigma and you still haven't indicated what you are driving your stat phones with. All of the stats mirror what is done to them and are only as good as what they are driven with and with and in most cases how they are tweaked.

 I will agree somewhat regarding the Sigmas, though. I have three sets, low bias, pro and a pro rebuilt with 404 drivers and cable.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715

 The low bias has lower dynamics but increased ambience. The pro is the opposite of the low bias. Both have a rolled-off treble and somewhat excessive mid-bass. The 404 mod is a souped-up pro, with more detail, warmth and treble, otherwise fairly similar.

 All of these designs attempt to create an out-of-head experince, so it does not surprise me that you would call them distant. The mid bass-hump seems to go away somwhat wth warm-up. It is in my opinion at least a fairly euphonic defect and I find that the Sigma's sound good with probably a wider range of music than just about any other phone I have heard to date.


----------



## BluePhone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What people own they very rarely seem to be able to have any perspective about. And when they hear something different they criticize it because it doesn't sound like whatever they own._

 

Does this not apply to you in equal measure? Or, are you somehow exempt from this failing?


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having played in live bands for tens of years from symphony to jazz quartet to heavy rock, I'd say the same exact thing about speakers - they can't touch live. And I've heard some pretty mighty stereo systems in my day, costing upwards of $50 grand. Think they can touch the sound of a live snare drum? Not a chance._

 

I agree that most super-expensive audiophile speakers do not touch the sound of a live snare but that doesn't mean ALL speakers have the same failing. My point is that powered monitors can actually do a pretty good job of it AND at a much lower price as well. 

 For years, I've heard live drums and thought my system gave a very weak impression of the explosive transients and speed the live drums provided. But now I can listen to them and feel I'm getting a fair proportion of their liveness, thanks to the 6328's capabilities.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, that was entirely intentional considering I was in that instance, comparing it to other electrostatic headphones. I'm completely aware that a different type of speaker will have a widely different timbre and it doesn't really bother me. I have enough money put away that I could go out tomorrow and buy a decent-but-not-outstanding quality pair of direct radiating loudspeakers. That doesn't mean I'm going to, however. Electrostatic headphones have significant technical flaws, but so does every other kind of transducer in existance, the flaws just reside in different areas. I just so happen to not be especially bothered by electrostatic headphone colourations (as a general rule, I don't like each and every pair of 'stats in the world of course) and to quite like their particular strengths. Flipped over, I find most direct radiating loudspeakers bore me to tears with their prosaicness, leaking all the soul and magic out of the music like a rusty pipe. They could be ruler flat and the weight of the guitarist's power chord could be just so, but even if that were to be the case, I could never forgive it for turning my music into mere sound, devoid of it's greater meaning._

 

Well, I'd strongly disagree with your generalization. While the vast majority of speakers DO have a prosaic sound (I'm a noted speaker curmudgeon), it's not true for all. I'm a timbre guy and I listen to ancient recordings (often mono) so I'm hardly a sound-divorced-from-music player and I think the 6328's overall do a better job of transmitting the soul and magic of music than my stats. In fact, I was amazed at how music I thought of as tepid and bland came to life through them. And I love my X-III's when driven by a good amp. They have a liquidity and sweetness that conveys the beauty of music extraordinarily well. In this, they may slightly outshine the 6328's although it's a clos-run thing. But as for the 404's, they're not in the same ballpark as the 6328's for tone-colour beauty and differentiation so stats don't necessarily do it better.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zoide* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, but *this* is Head-Fi's NeilPeart 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (sorry Leeav!):_

 

Well, I guess there _is_ room in this world for _two_ Neil Peart's.....


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BluePhone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this not apply to you in equal measure? Or, are you somehow exempt from this failing?_

 

Which is why I keep a variety of different equipment to keep me on the straight and narrow.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As soon as I get comfortable with one piece of gear and stop noticing its colourations then it's time to go the other way.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought you had a 404 and SRXIII, not a Sigma and you still haven't indicated what you are driving your stat phones with. All of the stats mirror what is done to them and are only as good as what they are driven with and with and in most cases how they are tweaked._

 

May I repeat for the umpteenth time that I have a Stax 006t amp to drive the stats with as well as a SRD7 transformer driven by a variety of pre/power amp combos.

 And yes, the stats do reflect to some extent whatever is driving them but they still have their own sound-signature. If they didn't they'd sound _exactly_ the same when driven by identical equipment.


----------



## d-cee

I just received my lambda pros and srm1/mk2 !

 a few quick questions, for some reason very occasionally, on my right earspeaker depending on how i move around i can hear like very high frequency pulses, like morse code almost so but then i moved my head and it went away, i thought it might be my hair poking inside but i swapped ears and also held it away from my head, and it still makes the noise sometimes, i also tried to clean up as much of the detereorated foam and i think that helped

 but sometimes just a good shake seems to fix it....

 is there anything i can do to check or perhaps confirm what's happening, i thought it might be a loose cable or something or source or grounding issue bit i dont think it's that...

 also is it normal for the volume to drop ever so slightly when i touch the SRM1/MK2's case???

 i'm all new to this and would like to make sure the stuff didn't arrive faulty... thanks


----------



## Stax-i-nox

A bit off topic, but this company makes some great speakers that don't cost an arm and a leg..they use a ribbons.....some of the best sound I have heard from a speaker. 

www.vmpsaudio.com


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I'd strongly disagree with your generalization. While the vast majority of speakers DO have a prosaic sound (I'm a noted speaker curmudgeon), it's not true for all._

 

I agree, it was certainly a generalisation. But I have have yet to hear a non horn-loaded cone speaker that has done it for me, and until I do I'm sticking to my current line of attack. People are of course welcome to try and sway me, but it really has to be done through sound waves rather than posts on the internet or whatever. Can't be helped.


----------



## Carl

lulz


----------



## gordie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree that most super-expensive audiophile speakers do not touch the sound of a live snare but that doesn't mean ALL speakers have the same failing. My point is that powered monitors can actually do a pretty good job of it AND at a much lower price as well. 

 For years, I've heard live drums and thought my system gave a very weak impression of the explosive transients and speed the live drums provided. But now I can listen to them and feel I'm getting a fair proportion of their liveness, thanks to the 6328's capabilities._

 

This seems to be a slightly different point than you made originally, which is what I was responding to:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Which is why I think spending three or four grand on a headphone system is ludicrous because I happen to want my system to sound as close to live as possible.* Anybody who thinks their Lambdas or Sigmas are accurately doing drums just go and listen close-up to a live snare-drum and swear the difference isn't massive._

 

If you stated your preference was for powered monitor speakers, especially regarding the sense of liveness they give you, than I probably wouldn't have responded - I've heard many a powered monitor that sounded great and they do lend themselves to more of a room/slam sound than a small pair of headphones provides. 

 That notwithstanding, all of these choices are going to have failings in one area or another if you are going for the live experience, so you just gotta pick your poison. Stating that one of the alternatives is ludicrous because you prefer another is a bit extreme though, but maybe I'm reading more into it than you meant - If you meant ludicrous for you, given your preferences, then in that case, I can't fault your reasoning for the choices you've made.

 I'd have to say I enjoy a good speaker rig as much as headphones, but for different reasons. And headphones are far more practical for me, and at this point I sway more for the detail and presentation I get from them then with speakers. I worked in a studio with some awesome JBL powered monitors hung from the ceiling that really had impact, and loved them. I was using Mackies for a while as well (now gathering dust for the most part until I get a place with more room).

 At some point I'll be venturing back into the speaker realm some more (right now I have PSB Stratus Golds, which have slam for days, but I have been seduced by a good pair of full range drivers with a subwoofer as well). For now, though, it is my headphone collection that gets my mojo running the most, and the K1000s, coupled with my vivid imagination are what gets me immersed in music the most right now. (The 4070s are actually my pick at the moment, but I have to admit they sound like a miniature band floating around my head, where the K1000s have more presence and slam and "liveness" to the drums).

 -- Gordie


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lulz_

 






 I want two pints of whatever he's been drinking.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lulz_

 

It's always nice to see people that are open about their excessive drug use...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my lambda pros and srm1/mk2 !

 a few quick questions, for some reason very occasionally, on my right earspeaker depending on how i move around i can hear like very high frequency pulses, like morse code almost so but then i moved my head and it went away, i thought it might be my hair poking inside but i swapped ears and also held it away from my head, and it still makes the noise sometimes, i also tried to clean up as much of the detereorated foam and i think that helped

 but sometimes just a good shake seems to fix it....

 is there anything i can do to check or perhaps confirm what's happening, i thought it might be a loose cable or something or source or grounding issue bit i dont think it's that...

 also is it normal for the volume to drop ever so slightly when i touch the SRM1/MK2's case???

 i'm all new to this and would like to make sure the stuff didn't arrive faulty... thanks_

 

It sounds like a broken cable. This can happen when there is a direct line from the bias to one of the stators. It's easy enough to fix if you can get a new cable from Stax. 

 The SRM1 volume definitely shouldn't drop when you touch the case. These amps are old and many have been tinkered with over the years. Post some pics if you can of the inside of the amp.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's always nice to see people that are open about their excessive drug use... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

It's the grossly inflated shipping charge (78 euro!) and pointlessly small pictures that really did it for me. Mad.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lulz_

 

Haha, oh wow. I have to watch that auction just for the heck of it.


----------



## audiod

Does anyone else think that the subject of Loudspeakers vs. Headphones should be another thread?


----------



## jigster

Just got another Lambda Pro... somehow there seems to be intermittent static interference in the right channel. its not there all the time but occasionally it arises for only 1-2 seconds and its not there anymore. Anyone know what could be the problem be?


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone else think that the subject of Loudspeakers vs. Headphones should be another thread?_

 

Yes. That isn't primarily about Stax earphones.

 Andre Jute
 Habit is the nursery of errors. -- Victor Hugo


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my lambda pros and srm1/mk2 !_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I sure hope you can work around the issues you have, because it is a really great system.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone else think that the subject of Loudspeakers vs. Headphones should be another thread?_

 

I certainly do!
 This thread is for Stax related discussions, while general headphones (vs. speakers) discussions should be held elsewhere.


----------



## NeilPeart

Has anyone built their own DIY SRD-7 clone? Are there any general schematics? The concept doesn't sound too complicated and parts costs couldn't be that extreme...


----------



## fierce_freak

Where are you guys finding the Lambdas? I haven't been searching for long, so perhaps it's just a waiting game.


----------



## Duggeh

Try checking out ebay UK and ebay Germany if ebay.com isnt yielding you anything. Most sellers will post to the states if you ask.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fierce_freak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where are you guys finding the Lambdas? I haven't been searching for long, so perhaps it's just a waiting game._

 

I found my Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 system on eBay Germany. Where they seem to come up at a fairly regular basis.


----------



## fierce_freak

Thanks guys. I'd love to hear the Lambdas. I've only owned the SR-003 with the SRM-252a (if i remember correctly), but I loved it. I was impressed by the SR-404 out of the SRM-313 I heard. Where do the Lambdas fall in relation to the two? I think I may have actually prefered the SR-003 to the SR-404.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fierce_freak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where are you guys finding the Lambdas? I haven't been searching for long, so perhaps it's just a waiting game._

 

You have to keep a VERY close eye on E-Bay for them .Try putting "Stax headphones"or "Stax Lambdas" in your favorite searches to make it easy to check for. The prices tend to go higher when it's a normal auction but occasionaly a cheap Buy It Now auction will pop up from an ignorant seller.(Gotta love them)


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NeilPeart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone built their own DIY SRD-7 clone? Are there any general schematics? The concept doesn't sound too complicated and parts costs couldn't be that extreme..._

 

From the previous Stax thread...

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=629

 Those are all 580V bias. I have the schematic for the 230V bias SRD-7, I just need to scan it and I'll post it later. I haven't built a transformer box yet, but I plan on it at some point.


----------



## spritzer

The 230v bias supply is a simple voltage doubler with a 5meg resistor on the output. Very easy to make


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found my Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 system on eBay Germany. Where they seem to come up at a fairly regular basis._

 

I found that my "worldwide" search on Ebay seemed to miss a lot, including many European countries. You may need a separate search of different countries.

 I agree that there are some good things at fair prices out of Germany. I just got a Stax SRXIII, plus the portable SRDX amp, for about US$200.00 on the German site, although the item itself was in France. For communication, I use Babel Fish translations. I find often that if I send a message in German, or whatever, that I get a reply back in English. 

 I might end up selling the amp, since I am not sure that I really need it. I already have an SRDP pro portable and it's pretty decent running SR003's and even the 404. It seems underpowered to run a Sigma pro. 

 Mostly I want to run the SRXIII from an SRA12S amp.

 I sure hope this stuff works!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NeilPeart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone built their own DIY SRD-7 clone? Are there any general schematics? The concept doesn't sound too complicated and parts costs couldn't be that extreme..._

 

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html

 It's important to use good transformers. High ratio stepup transformers directly in the signal path have a strong effect on the sound. The other stuff isn't too difficult or expensive. I would recommend Tribute/AE Europe/ElectraPrint/Bartolucci, but everyone has their own preferences in transformers.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that my "worldwide" search on Ebay seemed to miss a lot, including many European countries. You may need a separate search of different countries._

 

Here's collection to start with.

http://search-desc.ebay.de/search/se...trypage=search
http://search-desc.ebay.at/search/se...p=1%26fsoo%3D1
http://search-desc.ebay.de/search/se...trypage=search
http://search-desc.ebay.ca/search/se...e=search&fgtp=
http://electronics.search-desc.ebay....Z1QQsofocusZbs

 You might also look into these:
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/srch...&submit=Search
http://www.adverts.hififorsale.com/r...&Submit=Search
http://www.zenn.com.sg/news.htm
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

 You could strike lucky and find someone here who wants to ship to wherever you are; most Japanese don't want to be bothered:

http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools
http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools

 HTH.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It sounds like a broken cable. This can happen when there is a direct line from the bias to one of the stators. It's easy enough to fix if you can get a new cable from Stax. 

 The SRM1 volume definitely shouldn't drop when you touch the case. These amps are old and many have been tinkered with over the years. Post some pics if you can of the inside of the amp._

 

the cable looks pretty good but yeah i wouldn't rule that out, i dont know if the cable on these can be detached? i don't see any way of disassembling the earspeaker housing otherwise i would have tried that

 i'm more and more thinking it might be some particules inside the earspeaker because the high frequency noises have stopped, but later on i put on the ear speakers and it sounded something like a bag of stones rolling around, so i moved my head around adn it was like the stones were following my head??? could also be cable related but would stuff in there behave like that?

 also, while doing a little clean up, i noticed that on the thin transperant material (i'm thinking this is the electrostatic membrane) that on the right ear speakers - same ear speaker i was experiencing problems with - was not so much a puncture but blowing on it ever so lightly looks like there's a little bubble of stretched out membrane that is overstretched and hasnt returned to its original elasticity and it looks kinda saggy/droopy

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I sure hope you can work around the issues you have, because it is a really great system.
 I certainly do!_

 

thanks, it's great when it behaves but these little nagging problems worry me =(


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That notwithstanding, all of these choices are going to have failings in one area or another if you are going for the live experience, so you just gotta pick your poison. Stating that one of the alternatives is ludicrous because you prefer another is a bit extreme though, but maybe I'm reading more into it than you meant - If you meant ludicrous for you, given your preferences, then in that case, I can't fault your reasoning for the choices you've made._

 

I guess I did mean ludicrous for _me_ but I thought maybe my reasons might have wider resonance than just lil ol' me. 

 The original issue was whether the best way of spending three or four grand was to get a set of Omega's with matching amp. Now, given MikeG's use of horns, I assume he likes the tangibility and that sense of liveness that horns do so well but that he didn't appreciate the limitations of horns. If he went for Omega's I think he'd be getting things that the horns didn't provide but that he'd be missing out on the good stuff the horns could do. Anyway, my _suggestion _(not _deman__d_) was to check out powered monitors to see if they had the detail he was after along with all the other stuff (sense of space, timbral accuracy) he needed to reproduce orchestra well. IMO they do the whole thing considerably better than any headphone, no matter how expensive. Others may disagree - which I guess is what this Forum is all about.


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone else think that the subject of Loudspeakers vs. Headphones should be another thread?_

 

Go ahead. Start it.

 However, the question asked was whether ditching speakers and living exclusively with Stax Omega 2's was a good idea. Sorry if you don't like my position on the matter, but I thought the Stax thread might be getting a little insular with a predictable chorus of Hosanna to Stax.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fierce_freak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where are you guys finding the Lambdas? I haven't been searching for long, so perhaps it's just a waiting game._

 

Well, I got mine from the Yahoo!Japan auctions together with a SRD-7/MKII and a Stax earspeaker wood stand.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got another Lambda Pro... somehow there seems to be intermittent static interference in the right channel. its not there all the time but occasionally it arises for only 1-2 seconds and its not there anymore. Anyone know what could be the problem be?_

 

Anyone?


----------



## Lloyd297

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I certainly do!
 This thread is for Stax related discussions, while general headphones (vs. speakers) discussions should be held elsewhere._

 

Umm, so all those references to Omega, Sigma, in the discussion weren't germane to Stax?

 Let's face it, you just want a Stax encomium.........


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Umm, so all those references to Omega, Sigma, in the discussion weren't germane to Stax?

 Let's face it, you just want a Stax encomium........._

 

What?
 I said "This thread is for Stax related discussions", and afaik Omega and Sigma are Stax products. But discussing general headphones (Sennheiser, AKG, etc...) and speakers should stay elsewhere.
 Comparing Stax to any of them are fine though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Umm, so all those references to Omega, Sigma, in the discussion weren't germane to Stax?

 Let's face it, you just want a Stax encomium........._

 

Uh-- what's an "encomium?" 

 On second thought I don't care.

 Maybe you should look up "thread crapping" though.

 It's actually real easy to start your own thread. When you click on "equipment - headphones" there's this button that you press to start a new thread. Well actually that's not right either, there's a whole separate section for speakers and the like, but the new thread button is still there.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Uh-- what's an "encomium?" 

 On second thought I don't care._

 

For those that do, it's a bit of writing that serves no purpose other than to praise something.


----------



## DENON

Hi,

 yesterday while listening to music with my 202 I noticed a very strange sound in my right ear. The stax was making a soft and distant hiss, something like a coffee machine or something like when you put hot tea in an thermocan and it cools down you get this hissing sound because of the air pressure. It was only from the right speaker (I turned the 202 around to check). It happened again today. I can only hear it when the music is very soft and it continued when I turned the music off (pause or stop) and even when I turned the headphone off!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is this strange sound and did anyone else hear it too? Is this the staxfart..?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the cable looks pretty good but yeah i wouldn't rule that out, i dont know if the cable on these can be detached? i don't see any way of disassembling the earspeaker housing otherwise i would have tried that

 i'm more and more thinking it might be some particules inside the earspeaker because the high frequency noises have stopped, but later on i put on the ear speakers and it sounded something like a bag of stones rolling around, so i moved my head around adn it was like the stones were following my head??? could also be cable related but would stuff in there behave like that?

 also, while doing a little clean up, i noticed that on the thin transperant material (i'm thinking this is the electrostatic membrane) that on the right ear speakers - same ear speaker i was experiencing problems with - was not so much a puncture but blowing on it ever so lightly looks like there's a little bubble of stretched out membrane that is overstretched and hasnt returned to its original elasticity and it looks kinda saggy/droopy


 thanks, it's great when it behaves but these little nagging problems worry me =(_

 

The membrane will have some parts with wrinkles in it but they were shipped like that. You have to remove the pads to open up the housing and you should do that. A broken cable will behave intermittently but there could also be a fault with the amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone?_

 

This could be a hair stuck in the driver. They can move with the voltage and cause a temporary voltage drop on parts of the diaphragm. Open them up an look inside.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DENON* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 yesterday while listening to music with my 202 I noticed a very strange sound in my right ear. The stax was making a soft and distant hiss, something like a coffee machine or something like when you put hot tea in an thermocan and it cools down you get this hissing sound because of the air pressure. It was only from the right speaker (I turned the 202 around to check). It happened again today. I can only hear it when the music is very soft and it continued when I turned the music off (pause or stop) and even when I turned the headphone off!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is this strange sound and did anyone else hear it too? Is this the staxfart..?_

 

That's some gunk getting into contact with the stators. It happens with a lot of electrostatics. Sometimes you can dislodge it by blowing on it.


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The membrane will have some parts with wrinkles in it but they were shipped like that. You have to remove the pads to open up the housing and you should do that. A broken cable will behave intermittently but there could also be a fault with the amp._

 

thanks spritzer, 

 I will do that tomorrow. the ear pads look like they're stuck on to the housing with some glue, i'm so scared of tearing/damaging the pads they're in immaculate condition for such old things. i will also try to pop open the hood of the unit and take some shots, it looks so clean inside from what i can see...

 i'm relieved that the membrane having wrinkles in it is normal

 however I'm beginning to think it may be something of a grounding issue. The reason I say this is when I run my hand along the unit, I sort of feel tiny zaps sometimes in the earspeakers as well and soon after i hear strange noises, and also, depending on where I touch the volume dials (front, sides or both) affects noise. the clincher was when i moved it into the laundry, where i KNOW that is it separate from the devices in my room and it was quiet, no zaps, no static nothing. 

 actually discovered by accident, i was fumbling around behind my computer and noticed that touching the power supply on my computer made the sound alter, volume dropped - similar to when i touched the case of the amp the volume dropped. also, if i sat in my chair and lifted my feet off the floor the noise disappeared.

 so i have a question, what do i do with the grounding post on the back there? i've never had such a thing on any of my other gear i am unsure what i am supposed to attach to it or do with it, it unscrews...

 THANKS!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will do that tomorrow. the ear pads look like they're stuck on to the housing with some glue, i'm so scared of tearing/damaging the pads they're in immaculate condition for such old things._

 

It's double-sided cellotape. As long as you don't repeatedly remove and then restick them they'll be fine.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DENON* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 yesterday while listening to music with my 202 I noticed a very strange sound in my right ear. The stax was making a soft and distant hiss, something like a coffee machine or something like when you put hot tea in an thermocan and it cools down you get this hissing sound because of the air pressure. It was only from the right speaker (I turned the 202 around to check). It happened again today. I can only hear it when the music is very soft and it continued when I turned the music off (pause or stop) and even when I turned the headphone off!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What is this strange sound and did anyone else hear it too? Is this the staxfart..?_

 

DENON
 It's quite common for stat headphones and speakers to make noises on their own. If you can create a alternating negative and positive pressure on the element this will move the diaphragm between the stators. This will usually dislodge any particles that may be trapped. The easiest way to do this is put the headphones on your head and push/pull the affected channel against your head at about a 4 cycles per second rate. Start with a gentle motion. If that doesn’t work try a little harder. Each try should only be for a few seconds. I would do this with the phones completely discharged (about an hour) and disconnected from your energizer. If the particle is stuck between the stator and diaphragm it may be permanently trapped and your noise may become a reoccurring problem.

 AudioD


----------



## jigster

Mine's got lots of disintegrated foamies in between the driver and the mesh. Took off the pads and unscrewed the driver from the casing. But can't seemed to see how to remove the mesh to clean out the particles. The driver seems to be stuck onto the plate. Anyone opened it up before? How do I do it?


----------



## Hirsch

A small keyboard vacuum seems to do a nice job of cleaning out bits of foam from older electrostatic headphones without having to disassemble them.


----------



## jigster

Seen on the web some Lambda Signatures with SC1 labelled on the connector. Are they the same as the run of the mill kind? Or is it some kind of regional product differentiation for different countries like they do cars?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seen on the web some Lambda Signatures with SC1 labelled on the connector. Are they the same as the run of the mill kind? Or is it some kind of regional product differentiation for different countries like they do cars?_

 

They are cryo'd 404's . I don't think anyone has heard them here.
 Some info from the old STAX thread 
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...191438&page=90


----------



## mikeg

*Lloyd* - I really appreciate your comparisons of near field speakers to electrostatic headphones. After listening to several really high cost speaker systems, I've been terribly disappointed by what I heard. In terms of intimacy, clarity, and especially in terms of inner detail of orchestral classical music, my electrostatic headphones are much better. It's thanks to your discussion of near field monitors that I'm now interested in hearing a pair of them. So again, thanks for discussing these speakers on this thread.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lloyd297* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Go ahead. Start it.

 However, the question asked was whether ditching speakers and living exclusively with Stax Omega 2's was a good idea. Sorry if you don't like my position on the matter, but I thought the Stax thread might be getting a little insular with a predictable chorus of Hosanna to Stax._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks spritzer, 

 I will do that tomorrow. the ear pads look like they're stuck on to the housing with some glue, i'm so scared of tearing/damaging the pads they're in immaculate condition for such old things. i will also try to pop open the hood of the unit and take some shots, it looks so clean inside from what i can see...

 i'm relieved that the membrane having wrinkles in it is normal

 however I'm beginning to think it may be something of a grounding issue. The reason I say this is when I run my hand along the unit, I sort of feel tiny zaps sometimes in the earspeakers as well and soon after i hear strange noises, and also, depending on where I touch the volume dials (front, sides or both) affects noise. the clincher was when i moved it into the laundry, where i KNOW that is it separate from the devices in my room and it was quiet, no zaps, no static nothing. 

 actually discovered by accident, i was fumbling around behind my computer and noticed that touching the power supply on my computer made the sound alter, volume dropped - similar to when i touched the case of the amp the volume dropped. also, if i sat in my chair and lifted my feet off the floor the noise disappeared.

 so i have a question, what do i do with the grounding post on the back there? i've never had such a thing on any of my other gear i am unsure what i am supposed to attach to it or do with it, it unscrews...

 THANKS!_

 

The pads are tough and it's easy to get replacements for every model except the SR-Lambda Signature. The dark brown pads they use are not available. 

 You do most definitely have a grounding issue. The signal ground might be connected to the case somewhere causing a ground loop. Open both the amp and the phones up and take pics and the we can if anything is obviously wrong. 

 The grounding post is there because in Japan there isn't a ground in the power system so it has to be separate. If something should happen to the amp or the phones it is sure nice to have some other pathway for the electricity then through the user... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Lloyd* - I really appreciate your comparisons of near field speakers to electrostatic headphones. After listening to several really high cost speaker systems, I've been terribly disappointed by what I heard. In terms of intimacy, clarity, and especially in terms of inner detail of orchestral classical music, my electrostatic headphones are much better. It's thanks to your discussion of near field monitors that I'm now interested in hearing a pair of them. So again, thanks for discussing these speakers on this thread._

 

IMO speaker discussion should be it's own thread in its own forum. This thread is meant a resource for those interested in Stax and has nothing to do with near field monitoring.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Uh-- what's an "encomium?" 

 On second thought I don't care.

 Maybe you should look up "thread crapping" though._

 

For the record, an encomium is a testimonial, best if unsolicited, but I'm sure you knew that already.

 I agree with you that a deep, long discussion about nearfield monitors v. electrostatic earphones should go into a new thread. But it's a practical matter of the navigability and utility of this already diverse and long thread, not a fundamental difference of philosophy.

 Lloyd is right about the dangers of the "chorus of Hosanna". Stax earphones and amps are not above criticism; nothing is. But that doesn't mean we all want to take detours to give a somewhat tenuously related topic a miss in a thread primarily concerned with what we *are* interested in. Again, it is a matter of practicality.

 It's only a hobby, fellows, not a religious crusade.

 Andre Jute
 Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey


----------



## mirumu

Well said Andre, I'm in full agreement.

 On an unrelated note, I'm currently wondering about the experiences of those driving Stax headphones (or others) via the transformer boxes. I'm aware some here are using nice solid state amplifiers with plenty of power behind them. I'm wondering if anyone has tried tubes be they hybrids, DHTs, SET designs, etc with their Stax? What were your impressions? How much wattage do you find is needed? 

 I'm currently driving my O2s via a cheap kit-based 100wpc solid state amplifier and as far as impact and volume goes it provides more than I need but without tubes somewhere in the signal path it sounds coarse, unmusical and generally boring. The transformer box is on my long term plan for upgrade but I'm thinking upgrading the amplifier itself is what will provide the best results. I realize there are infinitely better solid state amplifiers than what I have but preferably I'd like move to tubes as I have generally found them more to my tastes. I've been looking at amplifiers powered by 300Bs, 2A3s, 45s and numerous others but the low wattage ratings of many such amplifiers is somewhat concerning to me. 845s and GM70s seem to offer more wattage although the price seems to go up significantly as well. I'm not against the direct drive options either, but the options are limited and opinions of them are easily found around these boards.

 Perhaps this is better suited to the amplification forum but I'm talking purely from the perspective of driving Stax earspeakers.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm currently wondering about the experiences of those driving Stax headphones (or others) via the transformer boxes. I'm aware some here are using nice solid state amplifiers with plenty of power behind them. I'm wondering if anyone has tried tubes be they hybrids, DHTs, SET designs, etc with their Stax? What were your impressions? How much wattage do you find is needed? _

 

mirumu
 I’ve found that tube amps work good driving the Stax phones. The Stax energizer/transformer box presents a reactive load to the amplifier (dropping impedance with frequency) and matching a tube amp can be tricky. Amps with a reputation for a certain character can sound completely different on the Stax. There seems to be a reaction with the tube amps output transformer and the step up transformer in the Stax. Good amps like the Dynaco ST-70, early ARC cross-coupled designs and the Music Reference RM-9 all had a upper midrange brightness that didn’t show up when driving conventional speakers. Amps like the Dynaco ST-35, Marantz 8B (in triode), Atma-Sphere MA-30 OTL and Conrad-Johnson Premiere 11a sounded great. I would take your phones to a good audio dealer and audition different amps. The best sounding solid state amps were the Threshold SA3, Pass Aleph 3 & 5, Coda 2.5 and Classe DR-3b (All pure Class A designs). For good dynamics I would want no less than 20 wpc.

 Audiod


----------



## mirumu

Audiod, many thanks, that's exactly the kind of information I was hoping for. Opens up new avenues for research.


----------



## wualta

I'll be interested to see what sort of dynamic range we can get out of my friend's Antique Audio Labs Wave 8, about 8 w/ch, what with a tube amp's ability to soft-clip and sound bigger than it is, and compare this (if practical) with the roughly 50 w/ch digital amp in the Panasonic XR25 receiver. I'll be using a Lambda Pro with an SRD-7 Pro box.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll be interested to see what sort of dynamic range we can get out of my friend's Antique Audio Labs Wave 8, about 8 w/ch, what with a tube amp's ability to soft-clip and sound bigger than it is, and compare this (if practical) with the roughly 50 w/ch digital amp in the Panasonic XR25 receiver. I'll be using a Lambda Pro with an SRD-7 Pro box._

 

Wow, those look amazing for the price. It'll be interesting to see what you find. Could make a good back end for a low volume office system I'd suspect.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well said Andre, I'm in full agreement.

 On an unrelated note, I'm currently wondering about the experiences of those driving Stax headphones (or others) via the transformer boxes. I'm aware some here are using nice solid state amplifiers with plenty of power behind them. I'm wondering if anyone has tried tubes be they hybrids, DHTs, SET designs, etc with their Stax? What were your impressions? How much wattage do you find is needed? 
_

 

SE, DHT, PP, and so on do not matter much except for prestige, street cred, the profits of the undeserving, and other strictly trivial, definitely non-sonic considerations. What people call the DHT or SE sound is merely the sound of triodes or trioded pentodes being operated for small, very linear output power, in Class A1 with zero or very little global negative feedback. A choke input power supply helps give the sound that distinctive flavour. It isn't even necessarily a tube sound, though it is difficult and expensive to achieve with silicon (you'll find an attempt to match tube sound with silicon on the cheap on my netsite in the chapters about the miniGainBrick or mGB -- entertaining for the student but not recommended at this level). Nor do you need huge power: one watt is overkill already. Check out "The myth of the watt" at
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...dre%20Jute.htm
 for methods of determinging how much power you really need.

 Finding a commercial amp with those specifications is a near impossibility. There are some small amps on my netsite 
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm
 that you can build if you can solder and have a proper respect for electricity; the 
 Jute-EL34-SEntry
 can be built inexpensively if you merely want to experiment. Later I will publish circuits for a series of dedicated direct-drive Stax tube amps, but that is off your topic of tube amps to use with transformer boxes <G>.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## nothing101

ive been finding my k501s really slow and undetailed lately. not that im looking for an upgrade but im just curious if there is a non stat headphone that sounds DRASTICALLY faster than the 501. 

 i dont want any suggestion of what i should get because i have access to quads which are more than good enough. just curious if there is a dynamic headphone that is even close to as fast as stats. 

 k1000? rs1? dt880?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SE, DHT, PP, and so on do not matter much except for prestige, street cred, the profits of the undeserving, and other strictly trivial, definitely non-sonic considerations. What people call the DHT or SE sound is merely the sound of triodes or trioded pentodes being operated for small, very linear output power, in Class A1 with zero or very little global negative feedback. A choke input power supply helps give the sound that distinctive flavour. It isn't even necessarily a tube sound, though it is difficult and expensive to achieve with silicon (you'll find an attempt to match tube sound with silicon on the cheap on my netsite in the chapters about the miniGainBrick or mGB -- entertaining for the student but not recommended at this level). Nor do you need huge power: one watt is overkill already. Check out "The myth of the watt" at
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...dre%20Jute.htm
 for methods of determinging how much power you really need._

 

Ah, many thanks for your thoughts and that link. I have to admit I was hoping someone would talk more about the wattage since I see so many quality amplifiers out there that are rated at 1-2 watts. If they did not have their uses then I am sure there would not be so many available. I have a multimeter around so when my Omega IIs are back I will have to work out exactly how much power I need to drive them. Other earspeakers appear to be more efficient so I assume any amp that can adequately power the O2s will power other's more than sufficiently too.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finding a commercial amp with those specifications is a near impossibility. There are some small amps on my netsite 
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm
 that you can build if you can solder and have a proper respect for electricity; the 
 Jute-EL34-SEntry
 can be built inexpensively if you merely want to experiment._

 

I'm certainly not against some DIY especially considering how much freedom it gives you in ensuring build quality. I'm by no means an expert but I have assembled and diagnosed numerous circuits. Where I tend to draw the line is winding transformers, for some reason I'm just terrible at it. Building an amp myself is something I would like to do if I ever find the time although I would probably aim for a direct-drive Stax amp in that situation.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Later I will publish circuits for a series of dedicated direct-drive Stax tube amps, but that is off your topic of tube amps to use with transformer boxes <G>._

 

I'm sure that such circuits are more than welcome here. I certainly have no intention to limit the discussion, I just wanted to define clearly where my questions were coming from. I look forward to when you publish your circuits. Thanks once again for your helpful comments.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nothing101* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i dont want any suggestion of what i should get because i have access to quads which are more than good enough. just curious if there is a dynamic headphone that is even close to as fast as stats. 

 k1000? rs1? dt880?_

 

I'd stay away from the DT880. I wouldn't call it particularly fast. RS-1 is an excellent headphone for lots of different reasons - but is it fast in terms of resolving raw detail adeptly and accurately? Compared to 'stats, not by a long shot.

 k 1k has a lot of strengths to it. It's one of the faster dynamics, but it's still not as fast as a 'stat. But it has a weight that it's capable of that electrostats don't (even compared my SR-X mk3.) But that's just an apples and oranges comparison.

 There are reasons why some people find the Sony MDR-SA5000 to be electrostatic-like in terms of its speed. It has strengths and weaknesses relative to electrostats. I do think it is fast, though does it have the purity of timbre as say a SR-404 or other electrostat? Not quite. Tonally it's tipped, though I would take issue with anyone who says its not a fast or highly resolving headphone (though tending towards resolving edge transients as opposed to inner detail). But is it as fast or highly resolving as say a SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Pro? No. But in most systems, it's more refined than either of the aforementioned. It takes a lot to tame the raw-ness of the Lambdas, IMHO.

 If your budget is limitless, I still find the Qualia 010 to be more resolving/fast on a raw basis than the HE90 or any of my Stax, while still being quite refined. But I don't own a Omega 1 or Omega 2, so can't say relative to those. The 010 though is capable of a texture that so far the HE90, while it does 3d texture quite effortlessly, can't match in terms of raw capability. Though right now, neither my 010 rig nor my HE90 are really optimized for their respective capabilities.

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## Carl

In the interests of science I'd like to do a direct comparison between the 404 and another headphone. Rather than buy a pair (I already have way too many headphones), I'm wondering if anyone is up for lending me their babies? It should take me less than a week, not including transit times, to do everything. And don't worry, Gollem will look after your preciousss.

 I'll pay shipping both ways. Anyone?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nothing101* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ive been finding my k501s really slow and undetailed lately. not that im looking for an upgrade but im just curious if there is a non stat headphone that sounds DRASTICALLY faster than the 501. 

 k1000? rs1? dt880?_

 

I am no great fan of dynamic phones but to my ear some of the medium priced earbuds and IEM's seem fairly fast. I suspect this is because they can generate a lot of sound from small drivers they may not be prone to some of the distortion problems of the much larger regular dynamics.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the interests of science I'd like to do a direct comparison between the 404 and another headphone. Rather than buy a pair (I already have way too many headphones), I'm wondering if anyone is up for lending me their babies? It should take me less than a week, not including transit times, to do everything. And don't worry, Gollem will look after your preciousss.

 I'll pay shipping both ways. Anyone?_

 







 If you are willing to pay the one way shipping of 4000yen I'm happy to buy some 404s from PriceJapan that you can borrow for scientific purposes anytime.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 If you are willing to pay the one way shipping of 4000yen I'm happy to buy some 404s from PriceJapan that you can borrow for scientific purposes anytime. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Signed, my brother. I'll pay NZD50 for that.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Signed, my brother. I'll pay NZD50 for that._

 

Ordered and paid.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ordered and paid. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You city folk sure move fast. 

 Dibs first listen.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You city folk sure move fast. 

 Dibs first listen._

 

Sure. All the less I'll need to burn them in.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure. All the less I'll need to burn them in. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

*Pulls up some popcorn and waits for the inevitable burn-in flamewar*


----------



## nothing101

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd stay away from the DT880. I wouldn't call it particularly fast. RS-1 is an excellent headphone for lots of different reasons - but is it fast in terms of resolving raw detail adeptly and accurately? Compared to 'stats, not by a long shot.

 k 1k has a lot of strengths to it. It's one of the faster dynamics, but it's still not as fast as a 'stat. But it has a weight that it's capable of that electrostats don't (even compared my SR-X mk3.) But that's just an apples and oranges comparison.

 There are reasons why some people find the Sony MDR-SA5000 to be electrostatic-like in terms of its speed. It has strengths and weaknesses relative to electrostats. I do think it is fast, though does it have the purity of timbre as say a SR-404 or other electrostat? Not quite. Tonally it's tipped, though I would take issue with anyone who says its not a fast or highly resolving headphone (though tending towards resolving edge transients as opposed to inner detail). But is it as fast or highly resolving as say a SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Pro? No. But in most systems, it's more refined than either of the aforementioned. It takes a lot to tame the raw-ness of the Lambdas, IMHO.

 If your budget is limitless, I still find the Qualia 010 to be more resolving/fast on a raw basis than the HE90 or any of my Stax, while still being quite refined. But I don't own a Omega 1 or Omega 2, so can't say relative to those. The 010 though is capable of a texture that so far the HE90, while it does 3d texture quite effortlessly, can't match in terms of raw capability. Though right now, neither my 010 rig nor my HE90 are really optimized for their respective capabilities.

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

well im pretty suer that was an accurate answer to my question

 i dont think my 501 is slow by a long shot but it is absolutely put to shame by all the stats ive heard in terms of speed which i do find important. so much of the music is in the timing.

 well that was the answer to my question


----------



## Duggeh

lol @ Carl and mirumu. I should come to that sort of understanding with a scot-fier.


----------



## Carl

Speaking of understanding, I'm suprised Matt isn't banging at my door asking for his Omega IIs back.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of understanding, I'm suprised Matt isn't banging at my door asking for his Omega IIs back._

 

I'm surprised you aren't banging at my door asking for your 4070s and K340 back. Same deal as last week perhaps?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm surprised you aren't banging at my door asking for your 4070s and K340 back. Same deal as last week perhaps?_

 

Kinda hard without a car. I ain't walking to Hamilton.

 Sure, pop buy whenever.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Nor do you need huge power: one watt is overkill already. Check out "The myth of the watt" at
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...dre%20Jute.htm
 for methods of determinging how much power you really need.
_

 

I agree that huge power is not needed, but we need voltage drive. The Stax phones are a voltage (very small current) driven device. The maximum output voltage of my SRA-12s is 350 volts and 370 volts for my SRM-1 mk2 pro. To develop similar voltages using a Stax step-up transformer with a turns ratio of around 20:1 (I am making a educated guess on the ratio) you would need a amp that can put out 43 watts into a 8 ohm load. The input impedance of the energizer/transformer is quite high for most of the audio band so the actual wattage generated to provide enough voltage would be much lower. Most amplifier manufacturers do not give maximum output voltage ratings so we must use their 8 ohm wattage rating and calculate the voltage using ohm’s law. I still think that 20 watts into 8 ohms would be a minimum for me. You do not want the amp to clip. Clipping voltages with their high harmonic content driving a step-up transformer is what usually arcs electrostatic headphones and speakers.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I just checked my SRD-7.
 5 volts RMS input (1kHz) got 120 volts RMS output. That would give the transformer a 24:1 turns ratio. To get 350 volts to the stat would take 14.6 volts driving the transformer. 14.6 volts into a 8 ohm load (the SRD is much higher in the midband) is 26.6 watts.


----------



## milkpowder

Just found system synergy with a new cable, the Chord Chameleon Silver Plus ($160). Previously, I was using a Chord Cobra 3 ($89). Oddly enough, the Chameleon Silver Plus uses silver plated copper and it doesn't sound harder, colder, harsher or more shrill than the all copper Cobra 3.

 The soundstage is more airy and there's more detail while a bit more warmth to the overall sound. The sound is incredibly realistic and natural-sounding. There's also more body to the sound. The imaging is very sharp and the thinness and colouration in the upper mids have more or less been eliminated. The music flows more easily as a result and doesn't sound restrained or thin as it did before. The instrument decay is incredibly realistic and the overall sound so pure. Hence, the enjoyment factor is greatly increased. _I'm so happy!_ This has to be the most significant upgrade to my rig. I really didn't know the Audiophile USB was capable of such a glorious output. Who knows what a higher end DAC will do?!

 Sound-wise, I'm extremely pleased. I no longer have the urge to upgrade
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All that's left of my upgraditis is my curiosity... which when I come to think of it, has always fuelled my urge to upgrade... I lied: I do want to upgrade and I want to hear what this Stax system is capable of! I believe I'm at least 90% there.

 EDIT: I can't believe what I'm hearing. This Stax system is almost as good as my speaker system at home and it costs a wee fraction as the stereo system. The sound is _so_ immersive and real that I'm really very, very shocked... The timbre is almost perfect! I'm going to cry...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the interests of science I'd like to do a direct comparison between the 404 and another headphone. Rather than buy a pair (I already have way too many headphones), I'm wondering if anyone is up for lending me their babies? It should take me less than a week, not including transit times, to do everything. And don't worry, Gollem will look after your preciousss.

 I'll pay shipping both ways. Anyone?_

 

Is there a shortage of 404's in Godzone?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there a shortage of 404's in Godzone?_

 

A shortage of lambdas in general I'd say. Can't be allowed to continue.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree that huge power is not needed, but we need voltage drive. The Stax phones are a voltage (very small current) driven device. The maximum output voltage of my SRA-12s is 350 volts and 370 volts for my SRM-1 mk2 pro. 
 .....snip.......
 Clipping voltages with their high harmonic content driving a step-up transformer is what usually arcs electrostatic headphones and speakers.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just checked my SRD-7.
 5 volts RMS input (1kHz) got 120 volts RMS output. That would give the transformer a 24:1 turns ratio. To get 350 volts to the stat would take 14.6 volts driving the transformer. 14.6 volts into a 8 ohm load (the SRD is much higher in the midband) is 26.6 watts._

 

Thanks! Now we have numbers for Mirumu. It might be smart in each case to say what mode of drive we are talking about.

 TO DRIVE A TRANSFORMER BOX
 A nice push-pull EL34 ultra-linear amp should be good for 24W in a conservative design and can be made into a triode amp by switching in two resistors per channel to give a better sound at about 10-12W after the novelty of the power wears off or the owner decides there will be no point in having expensive earphones if he has ruined his ears with excessive volume... The best amp I ever designed (T113 Triple Threat), by the test of playing their own recorded music to professional musicians behind a curtain against a good 300B amp with a good solid state amp as the placebo, happens to be a humble PP EL34 running in triode. I love the EL34. They are superb at driving my ESL63 too, actually rather better than the more prestigious PSE 300B.

 DIRECT DRIVE OF ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONE BY TUBE AMP -- HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
 The point is that, if a Stax owner is splashing out for a tube amp already, he may as well get a direct drive amp to suit his phones rather than to suit the Stax transformer box, and improve his sound by cutting out one device. Then a watt is overkill; my current proto of direct drive amp would reach the 120Vrms you quote (also one of my design hard points) at less than a quarter of a watt, the rest of the available swing being sacrificed in aid of linearity.

 I'm half asleep and Dame Joan is distracting me by singing in my ears, so I hope I don't have to issue a clarification tomorrow...

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## basb

Regarding using a tube amp with a transformer box i found this:

http://www.blackdahlia.com/tipindex/...rsonal_amp.htm

 The microzotl, 1 watt/4 ohm per channel, with the srd-7 pro apparently gives satisfying results.

 I ordered an opera cyber 30 a few weeks ago, it uses 2a3 tubes, 3.5w / 8ohm per channel, to use with my sennheiser hd600, soon-to-buy-speakers and, if it has enough power output, a srd-7 pro with lamba's. I'll let you know soon.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding using a tube amp with a transformer box i found this:

http://www.blackdahlia.com/tipindex/...rsonal_amp.htm

 The microzotl, 1 watt/4 ohm per channel, with the srd-7 pro apparently gives satisfying results.

 I ordered an opera cyber 30 a few weeks ago, it uses 2a3 tubes, 3.5w / 8ohm per channel, to use with my sennheiser hd600, soon-to-buy-speakers and, if it has enough power output, a srd-7 pro with lamba's. I'll let you know soon._

 

Most OTL tube amps have good voltage drive and are limited in current. They will put out more power into higher impedence loads (16-32 ohms). Just the opposite of a direct coupled solid state amp that is limited in voltage but has plenty of current and puts out it's max wattage into 2-4 ohms. Tube amps with output transformers put out their maximum power centered around the secondary impedence taps (4,8,16 ohms).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there a shortage of 404's in Godzone?_

 

Good headphones in general are somewhat of a novelty.


----------



## Downrange

They just keep getting better. The Electrocompaniet ECD-1 arrived this afternoon (thanks Voodoochile!!!) and I'm in love with the sound. The Apple Airport Express seems to be delivering a good data stream, but I had one glitch when the wireless connection I added to the desktop went down suddenly for some reason. (re-installed, and so far it's working OK).
 Looking forward to trying some other digital sources with this great DAC soon. The Omega IIs are just that much better, and I liked them before! This is a good matchup, and I don't even have my balanced cables yet - just running some old MIT phono plug equipped ICs (single-ended). If they get much better, I might not be able to stand it!
 Thanks to KRMathis for the encouragement, too, this is a great setup!


----------



## Carl

Au revoir, Omega IIs. Now back to those HE60s...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just found system synergy with a new cable, the Chord Chameleon Silver Plus ($160). Previously, I was using a Chord Cobra 3 ($89). Oddly enough, the Chameleon Silver Plus uses silver plated copper and it doesn't sound harder, colder, harsher or more shrill than the all copper Cobra 3.

 The soundstage is more airy and there's more detail while a bit more warmth to the overall sound. The sound is incredibly realistic and natural-sounding. There's also more body to the sound. The imaging is very sharp and the thinness and colouration in the upper mids have more or less been eliminated. The music flows more easily as a result and doesn't sound restrained or thin as it did before. The instrument decay is incredibly realistic and the overall sound so pure. Hence, the enjoyment factor is greatly increased. I'm so happy! This has to be the most significant upgrade to my rig. I really didn't know the Audiophile USB was capable of such a glorious output. Who knows what a higher end DAC will do?!

 Sound-wise, I'm extremely pleased. I no longer have the urge to upgrade
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All that's left of my upgraditis is my curiosity... which when I come to think of it, has always fuelled my urge to upgrade... I lied: I do want to upgrade and I want to hear what this Stax system is capable of! I believe I'm at least 90% there.

 EDIT: I can't believe what I'm hearing. This Stax system is almost as good as my speaker system at home and it costs a wee fraction as the stereo system. The sound is so immersive and real that I'm really very, very shocked... The timbre is almost perfect! I'm going to cry..._

 

Are these interconnects, power cables or what? Also what speaker/amp combination are you comparing them too?

 I'm not sure if this is related, but on the topic of silver, I have recently been using Silclear, a silver based contact enhancer 

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud...s/silclear.php

 on my equipment and I find it does great things especially to the sound of Lambdas (I have the Nova and 404). It greatly improves dynamics overall and dynamic detail, i.e. small variations in loudness, eg. a tremolo sound from an instrument becomes much more noticeable. However, of most relevance here, it gets rid of a lot of Lambda harshness and seems to bring put more mid bass, which these designs seem to need. 

 I have been listening primarily to my recently modded Sigma/404 phones, but I am now finding the 404 and Nova to be a lot more interesting now. The Silclear helps the Sigma pro and Sigma/404 a bit but it really changes the character of the Lambdas for the better.


----------



## gordie

I decided to try some slight EQ on the 4070s - I've been loving them the past few weeks, however on many recordings that are particularly bright, or "bass challenged", the 4070s can shout at you, often suffering from "snare snap" or a lack of warmth which is in stark contrast to the warm and smooth, yet crisp renderings of well recorded material. 

 I'm usually reticent to use EQ in the midrange, as I figure I'll do more harm than good, but I gave it a shot with some very mild EQ and have gotten very good results. I dropped 1.5 dB at 4k and 8k, and added just over 2dB at 64hz and 1.5 at 125hz.

 This calms things down for excessively bright recordings, eliminating snare snap, and filling out the bottom end, and doesn't seem to have any deleterious effects on well recorded material. The bass is so clean and controlled on these that boosting it like this doesn't cause any boom, just more warm clean tight bottom end.

 For Classical I don't bother with the EQ, but for most everything else I'm listening to, the EQ is working really well.

 These are turning into my favorite headphones, even supplanting my K1000s of late (which I absolutely love to pieces). I've never heard anything so detailed and rich/sweet in the midrange, and with such clean capable bass. (Although I have only heard the HE90s a few times in limited fashion, and no real experience with the Omegas - so I can't compare to those heavyweights).

 I sure hope this is the Stax thread and not the K1000 thread.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Au revoir, Omega IIs. Now back to those HE60s..._

 

They've managed to completely blow me away again in the 30 minutes I've had them back on my head. I had been missing them but didn't expect the first listening session I had them back would be quite so extreme. If there's ever a headphone I'll never sell it's these. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm also impressed at all the information coming forward in regard to people trying new amps with their electrostatics. Certainly given me a lot to look at. I hope others are getting something out of it too. It'll be interesting to see how all these other amps people are trying work out.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to try some slight EQ on the 4070s - I've been loving them the past few weeks, however on many recordings that are particularly bright, or "bass challenged", the 4070s can shout at you, often suffering from "snare snap" or a lack of warmth which is in stark contrast to the warm and smooth, yet crisp renderings of well recorded material. 

 I'm usually reticent to use EQ in the midrange, as I figure I'll do more harm than good, but I gave it a shot with some very mild EQ and have gotten very good results. I dropped 1.5 dB at 4k and 8k, and added just over 2dB at 64hz and 1.5 at 125hz.

 This calms things down for excessively bright recordings, eliminating snare snap, and filling out the bottom end, and doesn't seem to have any deleterious effects on well recorded material. The bass is so clean and controlled on these that boosting it like this doesn't cause any boom, just more warm clean tight bottom end.

 For Classical I don't bother with the EQ, but for most everything else I'm listening to, the EQ is working really well.

 These are turning into my favorite headphones, even supplanting my K1000s of late (which I absolutely love to pieces). I've never heard anything so detailed and rich/sweet in the midrange, and with such clean capable bass. (Although I have only heard the HE90s a few times in limited fashion, and no real experience with the Omegas - so I can't compare to those heavyweights).

 I sure hope this is the Stax thread and not the K1000 thread._

 

I usually EQ mine, too. A little bit goes a long way.


----------



## krmathis

@Downrange. Congratulations!
 The ECD1 sure are an excellent DAC, and a good match for the Omega II system. Expect further improvements when running balanced.

 Enjoy!


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are these interconnects, power cables or what? Also what speaker/amp combination are you comparing them too?

 I'm not sure if this is related, but on the topic of silver, I have recently been using Silclear, a silver based contact enhancer 

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud...s/silclear.php

 on my equipment and I find it does great things especially to the sound of Lambdas (I have the Nova and 404). It greatly improves dynamics overall and dynamic detail, i.e. small variations in loudness, eg. a tremolo sound from an instrument becomes much more noticeable. However, of most relevance here, it gets rid of a lot of Lambda harshness and seems to bring put more mid bass, which these designs seem to need. 

 I have been listening primarily to my recently modded Sigma/404 phones, but I am now finding the 404 and Nova to be a lot more interesting now. The Silclear helps the Sigma pro and Sigma/404 a bit but it really changes the character of the Lambdas for the better._

 

Sorry for being so vague. Those are RCA interconnects going between the "M-Audiophile" phono outs into a SRM-006tMk1 and then to the SR-404.

 I'm comparing to the speaker system at home: Esoteric X-03SE -> Chord CPA 3200E Preamp -> Chord SPM 1200E Amp -> Focal JMLab Diva Utopia Be

 The timbre accuracy is surprisingly (and uncomfortably) close to that of the stereo system. The transparency and purity of sound is also not far off. I'm relying on my memory because my Stax are in Scotland whereas the speakers are in Hong Kong. I _am_ using tracks that I've spent literally days listening to so I'm very familiar with how they sound on different systems.

 I didn't know interconnects were such a big factor. I'm a bit reluctant to spend more on power cables (currently using a basic Russ Andrews PowerMax), but my curiosity remains.

 I'll give the contact cleaners a try. They look pretty interesting and easy to use.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to try some slight EQ on the 4070s - I've been loving them the past few weeks, however on many recordings that are particularly bright, or "bass challenged", the 4070s can shout at you, often suffering from "snare snap" or a lack of warmth which is in stark contrast to the warm and smooth, yet crisp renderings of well recorded material. 

 I'm usually reticent to use EQ in the midrange, as I figure I'll do more harm than good, but I gave it a shot with some very mild EQ and have gotten very good results. I dropped 1.5 dB at 4k and 8k, and added just over 2dB at 64hz and 1.5 at 125hz.

 This calms things down for excessively bright recordings, eliminating snare snap, and filling out the bottom end, and doesn't seem to have any deleterious effects on well recorded material. The bass is so clean and controlled on these that boosting it like this doesn't cause any boom, just more warm clean tight bottom end.

 For Classical I don't bother with the EQ, but for most everything else I'm listening to, the EQ is working really well.

 These are turning into my favorite headphones, even supplanting my K1000s of late (which I absolutely love to pieces). I've never heard anything so detailed and rich/sweet in the midrange, and with such clean capable bass. (Although I have only heard the HE90s a few times in limited fashion, and no real experience with the Omegas - so I can't compare to those heavyweights).

 I sure hope this is the Stax thread and not the K1000 thread._

 

You should try a better amp with them. Some of those issues you are having are the amps fault. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They've managed to completely blow me away again in the 30 minutes I've had them back on my head. I had been missing them but didn't expect the first listening session I had them back would be quite so extreme. If there's ever a headphone I'll never sell it's these. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm also impressed at all the information coming forward in regard to people trying new amps with their electrostatics. Certainly given me a lot to look at. I hope others are getting something out of it too. It'll be interesting to see how all these other amps people are trying work out._

 

They are mind blowing. I did a short comparison yesterday between the Lambda Signature, He90 and the SR-007 on the SRM-T1 and the O2's are miles ahead. The others sound forced and strained while the O2's bing you all the detail, bass and midrange glory you can handle with much better micro and macro dynamics from an amp that can't drive them properly. I will never sell mine and I'm even considering a second set... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for being so vague. Those are RCA interconnects going between the "M-Audiophile" phono outs into a SRM-006tMk1 and then to the SR-404.

 I'm comparing to the speaker system at home: Esoteric X-03SE -> Chord CPA 3200E Preamp -> Chord SPM 1200E Amp -> Focal JMLab Diva Utopia Be

 The timbre accuracy is surprisingly (and uncomfortably) close to that of the stereo system. The transparency and purity of sound is also not far off.

 I didn't know interconnects were such a big factor. I'm a bit reluctant to spend more on power cables (currently using a basic Russ Andrews PowerMax), but my curiosity remains.

 I'll give the contact cleaners a try. They look pretty interesting and easy to use._

 

The budget Russ Andrews cables are quite good and I would spend more on the source rather then upgrade them. Be aware that higher price isn't always a great indicator if cables are better or not. For some companies it's all about ripping off the customer.


----------



## mikeg

*spritzer* - Did you find that the O2 blows the HE90 away, and that the HE90 sounded forced and strained? That's really strange. Perhaps there's something wrong with the amp, or with the HE90.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*spritzer* - Did you find that the O2 blows the HE90 away, and that the HE90 sounded forced and strained? That's really strange. Perhaps there's something wrong with the amp, or with the HE90._

 

The He90 sound forced in the top end. Some think this makes them more detailed but they are skipping over huge amounts of information and this on a normal recording, not some audiophile stuff. My He90's might be broken but I'm beginning to doubt it more and more. I have been working on some ESL designs myself and I think that this is a design issue. They are meant to sound like an audiophile speaker while the SR-007 is based on 40 years of trial and error to make the cleanest transducer possible. This is also apparent in the HD6x0 line of headphones and they do not sound like this by accident. They designed the He90 on the edge when it comes to D/S spacing, stator material and there might be some other design issues we don't know about. 

 The amp is working as it should and while the T1 isn't the smoothest amp around after my mods, it is a very synergistic match to the He90. In the end it is all about preference and I do not subscribe to the usual audiophile nonsense so I may have very different views about the ideal sound


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do most definitely have a grounding issue. The signal ground might be connected to the case somewhere causing a ground loop. Open both the amp and the phones up and take pics and the we can if anything is obviously wrong. 

 The grounding post is there because in Japan there isn't a ground in the power system so it has to be separate. If something should happen to the amp or the phones it is sure nice to have some other pathway for the electricity then through the user... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

hi spritzer! i think i managed to fix it, most definitely a grounding issue as i made room for it in my rack and wired everything up correctly (my room's a mess with all this gear) and viola! no noise

 i did take pictures of the unit anyway, but for now the beauty runs beautifully quiet =D

 pictures of the innards here: http://www.a-chau.net/gallery2/v/mambo-articles/stax/


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi spritzer! i think i managed to fix it, most definitely a grounding issue as i made room for it in my rack and wired everything up correctly (my room's a mess with all this gear) and viola! no noise

 i did take pictures of the unit anyway, but for now the beauty runs beautifully quiet =D

 pictures of the innards here: http://www.a-chau.net/gallery2/v/mambo-articles/stax/_

 

That's great to hear. Looking at the pictures the amp has not been tampered with and is in very good condition.


----------



## NeilPeart

I realize you have much more experience with electrostatic headphones in general and a great knowledge of Stax 'phones on top of that overall knowledge. However, even with the maxxed out Blue Hawaii (which IMO is the best amp mate for the OII – other than possibly the fabled SRM-T2, which I’ve never heard) the HE90 outperformed the Omega II in many areas (both the HE90 and OII were driven from the BH), included soundstage (a vertical presentation in addition to a horizontal one, which is something the K1000 cannot even achieve) and a detailed yet smooth sound that the SR-007 lacks IMO. I have NEVER found the Omega II to be more revealing or resolving than the HE90. I have heard many pairs of HE90s and most sound identical in character, but there are subtle differences with age (Mikhail's OOOLD pair has issues, as well as some of the new "18" HE90s). I hope you have an opportunity to hear another HE90 because I have a hard time empathizing with your views regarding the HE90s capabilities (although I completely respect Stax's history with electrostats as well as personal preferences regarding headphone presentation – the OII is an amazing headphone and I can completely understand why one individual may prefer it the HE90, but the HE90 is not “miles behind” the Omega II in any regard, regardless of amp, IMO).


----------



## F1GTR

edit - nm I misread


----------



## jigster

Am thinking of using a power amp with the SRD-7/MKII. don't have much knowledge about what is better but am thinking of either a Bel Canto S300 (SS?) or a Rouge Audio Atlas (tube). Anyone got any better suggestions? My budget only allows for <$1300 and these two fit right in near the max.


----------



## spritzer

At this level the system as a whole comes into play. Was the Blue Hawaii you heard tube rolled and what cables were in the system? The SR-007 needs the clearest sonic window possible to shine so any new production tubes or "musical" cables will drag them down. This is something you can only know by owning any piece of gear for an extended period of time. The He90 has a huge wow factor and quite a bit is tied to the price and prestige. It's my experience that any piece of gear that instantly wows you will disappoint in the long term. I loved the He90 for the first two weeks I had them and I told my friends that these were the ultimate headphones and I was done. When the honeymoon period had worn off I started to feel that something was missing in tracks I've listened to a thousand times. 

 The simple fact is you can't pick up the SR-007 and they will sound any where near their best. It is a product that you have to customize to your needs and it will grow on you. They continue to amaze me even after owning them for 3.5 years. One problem is with the earpads. About 6 months ago I stared to think that they were broken because they started to sound odd. I had an extra set of earpads and put them on and they were returned to their former glory.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Am thinking of using a power amp with the SRD-7/MKII. don't have much knowledge about what is better but am thinking of either a Bel Canto S300 (SS?) or a Rouge Audio Atlas (tube). Anyone got any better suggestions? My budget only allows for <$1300 and these two fit right in near the max._

 

The Pass Labs amp have some serious synergy with STAX phones in general. 
 You could maybe look into those as well.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pass Labs amp have some serious synergy with STAX phones in general. 
 You could maybe look into those as well._

 

But they are way over my budget. Thought about them before as they would also do nicely with my K1000s. But..... $$$$


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But they are way over my budget. Thought about them before as they would also do nicely with my K1000s. But..... $$$$_

 

Aleph 3s can be found for less than $1000 easily. There is also the option to have a DIYer build you one . If interested I can give you some info via PM as to who could build you one.


----------



## gordie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should try a better amp with them. Some of those issues you are having are the amps fault._

 

I'm waiting for the San Jose meet to try some amps before I take the plunge into something else. However, I have to say that with the slight EQ and the humble 313, they are sounding incredible now.

 I was expecting to need a new amp immediately upon getting these, but I'll definitely make it awhile with this setup. If I can throw out the need to EQ with another amp, that'd be great. Too bad there isn't a stereo store nearby with all the top electrostatic amps to spend an afternoon with...


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aleph 3s can be found for less than $1000 easily. There is also the option to have a DIYer build you one . If interested I can give you some info via PM as to who could build you one._

 

<$1000? That sounds great but the problem is I live in Singapore (230V) and most Pass Labs stuff in Ebay/Audiogon are 110-117V. Very very bummer. Shipping... double bummer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm waiting for the San Jose meet to try some amps before I take the plunge into something else. However, I have to say that with the slight EQ and the humble 313, they are sounding incredible now.

 I was expecting to need a new amp immediately upon getting these, but I'll definitely make it awhile with this setup. If I can throw out the need to EQ with another amp, that'd be great. Too bad there isn't a stereo store nearby with all the top electrostatic amps to spend an afternoon with..._

 

The best part about Stax is that you can use an amp like the 313 and be blown away and when you hear a better amp you will be even more amazed. I used it with my O2's for a year and was very happy until I heard a better one...


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Downrange. Congratulations!
 The ECD1 sure are an excellent DAC, and a good match for the Omega II system. Expect further improvements when running balanced.

 Enjoy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

You are so right! The Silver Resolution cables arrived today. The company even custom crossed the 2/3 leads to address the potential phase inversion between ECD and SRM-007tII caused by the different pin-outs. Very nice job on these and a kudo to signalcable.com for fast (custom, even) service and delivery when they said they would (today.)

 I'm listening to some of my favorites (Blade Runner Blues - Vangelis) today and there's no doubt, switching between the phono lines and the balanced (and riding gain the best I can - as balanced output is 3-6 db louder), that there is a big difference in dynamic range and in soundstage, even. There's just more "space between the notes." I'm sure other differences will manifest in time, because as someone posted above, this is a long time love affair - one doesn't get to know these 'phones overnight!

 The Omega IIs just rock with this tube amp and DAC. I'm very glad I ordered this combo; it's hard to imagine a SS amp doing any better a job. Blue Heaven, maybe...


----------



## krmathis

^ Now we are talking! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*You:* Apple AirPort Express -> Electrocompaniet ECD1 -> Stax SRM-007t*II* -> Stax Omega II
*Me:* Apple AirPort Express -> Electrocompaniet ECD1 -> Stax SRM-007t -> Stax Omega II


----------



## krmathis

I brought my Omega II and SRD-7/MK2 to one of my local Hi-Fi stores today.
Hi-Fi Klubben to be precise.

 One of the guys who work there met me right inside the door and asked if he could help me. I told him that I was looking into buying an integrated amplifier, and was especially interested in the Lyngdorf TDS2200 (picture).
 While he lead way into the High End room he asked me what kind of speakers I have. He looked strange at me when I answered that I put my speaker (headspeakers) on my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We first hooked up the Lyngdorf TDA2200/CD1 combo to a pair of B&W 805s speakers, and performed some listening. Then after a while I pulled out the Omega II cary case and asked if he was ready for some headphone **magic**. He had never seen anything like this before, and pulled the SRD-7/MK2 out of my hands and started to connect it to the Lyngdorf.
 In a matter of seconds the Omega II was playing music. he he

 For your information. The Lyngdorf TDA2200 is a solid state fully digital amplifier, priced at $4.500.

 I was first out, since after all I was the customer. It was soon pretty clear to me that this amplifier had some great potential. It clearly had the Omega II's under stronger control than what my SRM-007t can manage. But it also seemed to lacks some of the warmth and "magic" I get from of the SRM-007t. Maybe because the Lyngdorf is a fully digital solid state amplifier, while the SRM-007t is solid state/tube. Or perhaps because the SRD-7/MK2 add something to the sound that? I really don't know. But it seems like I enjoy tube amplifiers more than solid state one.

 After I have concluded my listening tests I handed the Omega II over to him (the guy who worked there). He listened to some of his favorite tracks, and at the end these were his only words; "*These put out the BEST midrange I have EVER heard!!*". Thats not bad, coming from a guy which handle speaker rigs worth $50.000's daily. We might actually have other switcher on the way!


 Conclusion!
 I am sure a 'speaker amplifer' -> SRD-7/MK2 -> Omega II system would sound great. But I will have to test some more amplifiers before I decide if I want to stick with the old trustful SRM-007t, or not.

 Stay tuned!


----------



## Downrange

When I talked with Yamas (Tats, I believe his name was), I discussed the issue of lots of people using the old SRD-7 drivers and amps with the Omega IIs. His reply was that that was essentially old technology, and the amps have moved far beyond that. Of course, his job is to sell new equipment, not old.
 I'll be interested in your continued experiments with the SRD7-MkII. But, I'm having a hard time imagining much better mids and uppers than the Stax amp designed for these delivers. Now, the bass could be improved, and years of living with big Maggies and the Velodyne sub have spoiled me for tight, controlled bass, but the Omegas with tubes aren't bad. And I don't know if I'd give up the liquid mids for a marginally tighter bass line, if that was the choice.


----------



## krmathis

Downrange, I guess you are right.
 The SRD-7/MK2 is an old product (from mid -80's), and direct-drive electrostatic amplifiers have improved a lot since then. I am not willing to sacrifice any of the Omega II's midrange qualities, so my only option might be to continue using direct-drive amplifiers.

 If there only were more all-tube electrostatic amplifiers out there.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Downrange, I guess you are right.
 The SRD-7/MK2 is an old product (from mid -80's), and direct-drive electrostatic amplifiers have improved a lot since then. I am not willing to sacrifice any of the Omega II's midrange qualities, so my only option might be to continue using direct-drive amplifiers.

 If there only were more all-tube electrostatic amplifiers out there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I dunno... that's what some people say... I'm still going to get an SRD-7 and try these with some of my amps (Perreaux 3150, modded Dynaco ST-70) just out of plain curiosity. I'd love to hear a BH or and ES-1 (believe that's the designation) sometime, too, but I think I'm pretty sold on the tubes, overall. The SRM-007tII is something of a bargain, as well, at least over here, especially when you compare it with the competing tube models.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Downrange, I guess you are right.
 The SRD-7/MK2 is an old product (from mid -80's), and direct-drive electrostatic amplifiers have improved a lot since then. I am not willing to sacrifice any of the Omega II's midrange qualities, so my only option might be to continue using direct-drive amplifiers.

 If there only were more all-tube electrostatic amplifiers out there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh c'mon don't give up that easy ! It's just a matter of finding the right amp (hint pure class a SS) and preamp(hint tube or hybrid) combo and then the right tubes in the preamp.(Besides source,cables etc.)


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's great to hear. Looking at the pictures the amp has not been tampered with and is in very good condition._

 

yep, bought it from its original owner who bought the set in 1990! thanks for all your help! =D


----------



## patrickamory

krmathis, great story about the hi-fi store. I bet tons of dealers would be blown away to learn what they're missing.

 This brings me to my current dilemma. I currently own 404s and SR-X MkIIIs and love them both. Each has its own strengths, but I suspect that the fat, visceral, dry sound of the Xes is sui generis and they will not be supplanted by another set of phones. The 404s... well, I love the immersive bath of sound effect, but I really do think I can do better.

 The question is, do I go for Lambda Pro to replace the 404s, or hold out for O2s? (or O1's for that matter, seeing as I listen to a lot of classical). People here rave about the Lambda Pros, especially as compared to the modern range of Lambdas, and I can use my 006tII amp with them. I'm unclear whether the 006tII is a good partner for the O2s (or O1s).

 Help! I don't want to end up with 4 pairs of Staxes. 2 would be better (OK, 3 in a pinch). You know how it is - I have 4 pairs of dynamic headphones just sitting in a closet since I got the Stax bug 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patrick


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I talked with Yamas (Tats, I believe his name was), I discussed the issue of lots of people using the old SRD-7 drivers and amps with the Omega IIs. His reply was that that was essentially old technology, and the amps have moved far beyond that. Of course, his job is to sell new equipment, not old.
 I'll be interested in your continued experiments with the SRD7-MkII. But, I'm having a hard time imagining much better mids and uppers than the Stax amp designed for these delivers. Now, the bass could be improved, and years of living with big Maggies and the Velodyne sub have spoiled me for tight, controlled bass, but the Omegas with tubes aren't bad. And I don't know if I'd give up the liquid mids for a marginally tighter bass line, if that was the choice._

 

If you speak to him again, ask if he's heard a modern high-end Stax model from a transformer box and a good amp.

 My view on the matter is that transformer vs direct drive is highly irrelivent, what matters is the quality of the ampflication with all components factored in. Stepup transformers do have their issues (capacitance increases with the square of the turns ratio), but there's plenty of conventional speaker amps out there that use them to good effect.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, great story about the hi-fi store. I bet tons of dealers would be blown away to learn what they're missing.

 This brings me to my current dilemma. I currently own 404s and SR-X MkIIIs and love them both. Each has its own strengths, but I suspect that the fat, visceral, dry sound of the Xes is sui generis and they will not be supplanted by another set of phones. The 404s... well, I love the immersive bath of sound effect, but I really do think I can do better.

 The question is, do I go for Lambda Pro to replace the 404s, or hold out for O2s? (or O1's for that matter, seeing as I listen to a lot of classical). People here rave about the Lambda Pros, especially as compared to the modern range of Lambdas, and I can use my 006tII amp with them. I'm unclear whether the 006tII is a good partner for the O2s (or O1s).

 Help! I don't want to end up with 4 pairs of Staxes. 2 would be better (OK, 3 in a pinch). You know how it is - I have 4 pairs of dynamic headphones just sitting in a closet since I got the Stax bug 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patrick_

 

My guess is the OIIs though I haven't heard them but other HeadFiers would say the same.... but not out of the 006tIIs.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess is the OIIs though I haven't heard them but other HeadFiers would say the same.... but not out of the 006tIIs._

 

Yes, I think that is the path most likely to lead to success.

 Upgrading the amp before the headphones would probably be the wise approach. SR-Xs will scale up with a good amp better than the O2s scale down with a ho-hum one.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh c'mon don't give up that easy ! It's just a matter of finding the right amp (hint pure class a SS) and preamp(hint tube or hybrid) combo and then the right tubes in the preamp.(Besides source,cables etc.)_

 

I plan to listen to some more amplifiers.
 For the simplicity I want an integrated amplifier, since they usually give more sound for the money. Next one out will be the Electrocompaniet ECI 5, and then try to find a tube amplifier.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, great story about the hi-fi store. I bet tons of dealers would be blown away to learn what they're missing._

 

Thanks! This guy was _totally_ blown away by their performance.

  Quote:


 The question is, do I go for Lambda Pro to replace the 404s, or hold out for O2s? (or O1's for that matter, seeing as I listen to a lot of classical). People here rave about the Lambda Pros, especially as compared to the modern range of Lambdas, and I can use my 006tII amp with them. I'm unclear whether the 006tII is a good partner for the O2s (or O1s). 
 

The difference between the SR-404 and Lambda Pro are minor, so I see no reason for you to replace you SR-404 with one. From what I remember (half a year ago) the Omega II scale up noticeable when being driven by the SRM-007t, compared to the SRM-006t. And so does the SR-404...
 Hence I suggest you first upgrade to the SRM-007t(II), and then later on buy an Omega II.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I plan to listen to some more amplifiers.
 For the simplicity I want an integrated amplifier, since they usually give more sound for the money. Next one out will be the Electrocompaniet ECI 5, and then try to find a tube amplifier._

 


 Would a Electrocompaniet Ampliwire 100 (a 100wpc power amp) be good enough to drive them sweetly? I also got a offer on a Sugden Headmaster & Musicmaster combo but dunno if they'll improve the sound of the 404s on a 006t. Intend to drive them via the SRD7/MKII.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would a Electrocompaniet Ampliwire 100 (a 100wpc power amp) be good enough to drive them sweetly?_

 

I have never heard any Electrocompaniet amplifiers powering a pair of Stax headphones, so don't know how "sweet" it would sound. 100 watts should be plenty of power though.

 I suggest you give it a go, then report back to us.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yep, bought it from its original owner who bought the set in 1990! thanks for all your help! =D_

 

Glad to have helped claim another soul for Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, great story about the hi-fi store. I bet tons of dealers would be blown away to learn what they're missing.

 This brings me to my current dilemma. I currently own 404s and SR-X MkIIIs and love them both. Each has its own strengths, but I suspect that the fat, visceral, dry sound of the Xes is sui generis and they will not be supplanted by another set of phones. The 404s... well, I love the immersive bath of sound effect, but I really do think I can do better.

 The question is, do I go for Lambda Pro to replace the 404s, or hold out for O2s? (or O1's for that matter, seeing as I listen to a lot of classical). People here rave about the Lambda Pros, especially as compared to the modern range of Lambdas, and I can use my 006tII amp with them. I'm unclear whether the 006tII is a good partner for the O2s (or O1s).

 Help! I don't want to end up with 4 pairs of Staxes. 2 would be better (OK, 3 in a pinch). You know how it is - I have 4 pairs of dynamic headphones just sitting in a closet since I got the Stax bug 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patrick_

 

The O2 is the best headphone of the bunch for classical but the 006t isn't a good amp for them. They will sound dark, murky and the bass is out of control and very woolly. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I brought my Omega II and SRD-7/MK2 to one of my local Hi-Fi stores today.
Hi-Fi Klubben to be precise.

 One of the guys who work there met me right inside the door and asked if he could help me. I told him that I was looking into buying an integrated amplifier, and was especially interested in the Lyngdorf TDS2200 (picture).
 While he lead way into the High End room he asked me what kind of speakers I have. He looked strange at me when I answered that I put my speaker (headspeakers) on my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We first hooked up the Lyngdorf TDA2200/CD1 combo to a pair of B&W 805s speakers, and performed some listening. Then after a while I pulled out the Omega II cary case and asked if he was ready for some headphone **magic**. He had never seen anything like this before, and pulled the SRD-7/MK2 out of my hands and started to connect it to the Lyngdorf.
 In a matter of seconds the Omega II was playing music. he he

 For your information. The Lyngdorf TDA2200 is a solid state fully digital amplifier, priced at $4.500.

 I was first out, since after all I was the customer. It was soon pretty clear to me that this amplifier had some great potential. It clearly had the Omega II's under stronger control than what my SRM-007t can manage. But it also seemed to lacks some of the warmth and "magic" I get from of the SRM-007t. Maybe because the Lyngdorf is a fully digital solid state amplifier, while the SRM-007t is solid state/tube. Or perhaps because the SRD-7/MK2 add something to the sound that? I really don't know. But it seems like I enjoy tube amplifiers more than solid state one.

 After I have concluded my listening tests I handed the Omega II over to him (the guy who worked there). He listened to some of his favorite tracks, and at the end these were his only words; "*These put out the BEST midrange I have EVER heard!!*". Thats not bad, coming from a guy which handle speaker rigs worth $50.000's daily. We might actually have other switcher on the way!


 Conclusion!
 I am sure a 'speaker amplifer' -> SRD-7/MK2 -> Omega II system would sound great. But I will have to test some more amplifiers before I decide if I want to stick with the old trustful SRM-007t, or not.

 Stay tuned! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is sad how clueless most hifi salesmen are. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The transformers do some things different but the jury is still out for me if they are better at anything. I know that I wrote them off to fast because they are great for checking out all those vintage stats I buy. If I blow one up it's no real loss...


----------



## JecklinStax

Sorry to interrupt the going conversation, but can anyone advise on recabling a sr-x mk3? Is it possible, doable and worthwhile? I kind of like the retro look of the stock cable, but it is far too short and I may have heard it has a negative influence on the sound. 
 How and where to find a suitable replacement cable?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to interrupt the going conversation, but can anyone advise on recabling a sr-x mk3? Is it possible, doable and worthwhile? I kind of like the retro look of the stock cable, but it is far too short and I may have heard it has a negative influence on the sound. 
 How and where to find a suitable replacement cable? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's very easy to recable them. I used a NOS SR-Lambda cable I got off ebay and it sounds much better. It manages to tame the brightness and lift some of the "boxed in" effect on the midrange. These cables have sold out and there aren't all that many options in 6 core high voltage ribbon cables. You could use some fine stranded silver wire with teflon and fit it inside the stock cloth covering. The other way is to buy a 5m Stax extension and cut off both ends to fit a 6 pin plug or you could use the 5 pin plug already mounted.


----------



## mikeg

Anything new yet about the McAlister EA-6?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, he doesn't have a Blue Hawaii just yet (though he did a great job on MINE)... but, having a BH and a McAlister EA-6 at the same time might just squeak under the radar in the Lone Star... just days away, then we will shoot it out for sure. And, as nice as that ES-1 is (sonically perfect, without question in my several hours with it), driving it at 5 o'clock and wanting more was just wrong, for me._


----------



## pabbi1

Nope - per the awesome greatness of CanadaPost:

 2007/02/20 08:24 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item accepted and entered into sortation plant 

 2007/02/19 16:38 BARRIE, ON Item accepted at the Post office 

 So, in keeping with past CP / USPS performance, it will be here any month now... far be it from them to tell me which one.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference between the SR-404 and Lambda Pro are minor, so I see no reason for you to replace you SR-404 with one._

 

Really! I was under the impression people thought Stax took a wrong turn with the Lambdas, and that the Lambda Pro was far more musical than the 404s.

 This would uncomplicate my buying process considerably if true 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 From what I remember (half a year ago) the Omega II scale up noticeable when being driven by the SRM-007t, compared to the SRM-006t. And so does the SR-404...
 Hence I suggest you first upgrade to the SRM-007t(II), and then later on buy an Omega II. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Ah, interesting. But rather than go for the 007tII, maybe I should hold out for a Blue Hawaii or an ES-1? (or an Aristaeus should one ever come up for sale?)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_The other way is to buy a 5m Stax extension and cut off both ends to fit a 6 pin plug or you could use the 5 pin plug already mounted._

 

I too would like to recable my SR-Xes but retain the original insulation... alas, probably not possible with the new flat-style Stax extension cords. No need for a 6 pin plug, right - the 6th pin is a dummy pin?

 Patrick


----------



## JecklinStax

Thanks, Spritzer!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need for a 6 pin plug, right - the 6th pin is a dummy pin?

 Patrick_

 

Correct, but don't absentmindedly plug it in to a Pro bias socket.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is sad how clueless most hifi salesmen are. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Word!
 But I am sure this salesman remember the Stax brand for a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really! I was under the impression people thought Stax took a wrong turn with the Lambdas, and that the Lambda Pro was far more musical than the 404s.

 This would uncomplicate my buying process considerably if true 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Note that I said "minor", not "no" or "none".
 The Lambda Pro are imo marginally better than the SR-404. But not so much that I would replace the SR-404 with a Lambda Pro if I already owned one.

 I think you are better of putting those money into an amplifier update, or into an Omega II.

  Quote:


 Ah, interesting. But rather than go for the 007tII, maybe I should hold out for a Blue Hawaii or an ES-1? (or an Aristaeus should one ever come up for sale?) 
 

That is of course an option.
 Cause according to those who own one of them they are better than any of the current Stax amplifiers.


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, interesting. But rather than go for the 007tII, maybe I should hold out for a Blue Hawaii or an ES-1? (or an Aristaeus should one ever come up for sale?)_

 

Patrick - Be careful! Even though the Aristaeus will accommodate STAX, it was made "solely" for the Sennheiser HE90. With STAX, I'm not so sure that you would be as pleased with the results, as you would with an ES-1 or KGBH.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, interesting. But rather than go for the 007tII, maybe I should hold out for a Blue Hawaii or an ES-1? (or an Aristaeus should one ever come up for sale?)
 Patrick_

 

Well, you CAN build a Blue Hawaii - I am living proof... well, with some well timed help from a friend...


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

I disagree that the SR-404 and the Lambda Pro differences are minor. It was night and day for me. The lower midrange harshness of the SR-404 wasn't there with the Lambda Pro. IMHO, the Lambda Pro sound more 'musical' to me than the SR-404 which sounded 'artificial'. In addition, the overall bass response with the Lambda Pro is better, IMHO.

 Happy Listening!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference between the SR-404 and Lambda Pro are minor, so I see no reason for you to replace you SR-404 with one._


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree that the SR-404 and the Lambda Pro differences are minor. It was night and day for me._

 

Then we have two different listening experiences.
 I agree that the Lambda Pro have better bass response and a more 'musical' sound signature than the SR-404. But to my ears the SR-404 is just a small (minor) step behind.
 One possible reason might be that we tried them with two different amplifiers? I used an Stax SRM-006t, while you probably used your Singlepower ES-1.

 I still stay with my advice that he should go straight for the Omega II.
_patrickamory_, the choice is of course all up to you. But be warned that the upgradeitis might hit you again soon if you go for Lambda Pro's this time.


----------



## MaloS

Hrm, to join the club for a second time, (after using sr-005a and finding them having no superiority over hd595), I just for the hell of it bought sr-84 + t-amp.

 Quite impressive for something for the 80s and a total price that would just get me sr-003 alone >.< The timbre of classical guitar on recordings that I have is extremely natural and real...just fish they had a bit more bass xD Makes for a decent temporary compliment to hd595 (hd595 rock, sr-84 for classical).

 Anyone know if a better speaker amplifer than the t-amp will grant them more bass? I am kinda entertaining myself by keeping this setup mostly vintage, don't feel like adding a modern stax amp to this. Plus a speaker amplifier is something I intend on having and using in the long run.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree that the SR-404 and the Lambda Pro differences are minor. It was night and day for me. The lower midrange harshness of the SR-404 wasn't there with the Lambda Pro. IMHO, the Lambda Pro sound more 'musical' to me than the SR-404 which sounded 'artificial'. In addition, the overall bass response with the Lambda Pro is better, IMHO.

 Happy Listening!_

 

abs@nilenet,com
 I agree. I liked my Lambda Pro better than the 404 on the 006t. On the SRM-1 mk2 Pro (which I like better than the 006t) I liked the Lambda Pro and Low Bias Lambda’s better than the 404's. The 404's have a upper midrange aberration that can irritate when listening for long periods. This is the reason I sold my 006t/404’s a few years ago.

 I have a set of 202's ordered from Audio Cubes II (shipped from Japan yesterday). I will be able to compare the 202, 404 (my old ones I sold to a friend), Lambda Pro & low bias Lambda on my SRM-1 mkII pro. Will advise

 AudioD


----------



## pabbi1

I liked my regular Lambdas on the SRM-1 mk2 better than the 404 on the 006t (someone else's), which surprised me, but I couldn't tell if it was the 404 or the 006t that was the culprit, if not both. 

 Of course, it was all for naught once I'd heard the HE60 & He90.


----------



## mikeg

Could be that I'll get my Woo Stat amp. before you ever see the EA-6.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope - per the awesome greatness of CanadaPost:

 2007/02/20 08:24 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item accepted and entered into sortation plant 

 2007/02/19 16:38 BARRIE, ON Item accepted at the Post office 

 So, in keeping with past CP / USPS performance, it will be here any month now... far be it from them to tell me which one._


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree that the SR-404 and the Lambda Pro differences are minor. It was night and day for me. The lower midrange harshness of the SR-404 wasn't there with the Lambda Pro. IMHO, the Lambda Pro sound more 'musical' to me than the SR-404 which sounded 'artificial'. In addition, the overall bass response with the Lambda Pro is better, IMHO.

 Happy Listening!_

 



 At the start it is unclear what Lambda one is talking about. The only phone called a Lambda Pro by Stax was the first high bias Lambda issued in 1982. 

 I have the Lambda Nova Basic which came out in 1994 and of which I am unaware of any design differences between it and the first high bias design. It is in no way shape or form a better phone than the 404. It has less treble and for that reason it may sound better in a bright system and it may even give the impression of more bass for the same reason. I find the 404 to have more detail, and warmth than the earlier model and the bass to be not too obviously different. I have been running them both of an SRM-3 and 707 amp.

 The various Lambda Signatures (which I believe started with the Nova series) had lower capacitance cables and I have seen one reference in some promotional litertaure that it's transducer may have had a marginally thinner diaphragm than even the 404, but the reference may have simply been the result of rounding down the spec.

 So for me the design issues that matter in the Lambda are cable and diaphragm thickness and I have never seen anything else documented.

 Edit: Now I have: the stators went from perforated copper to wire mesh, with the Nova series and evidently to plastic/pcb with the Omega 2.


----------



## mirumu

MaloS , I find your experiences with the HD595 vs SR-005A interesting, to me the SR-005A is significantly superior. It makes me wonder how you're driving the 595s. Your experience with the SR-84 reminds me of mine with the SR-X Mk3. Classical guitar is also something they excel at.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At the start it is unclear what Lambda one is talking about. The only phone called a Lambda Pro by Stax was the first high bias Lambda issued in 1982. 

 I have the Lambda Nova Basic which came out in 1994 and of which I am unaware of any design differences between it and the first high bias design. It is in no way shape or form a better phone than the 404. It has less treble and for that reason it may sound better in a bright system and it may even give the impression of more bass for the same reason. I find the 404 to have more detail, and warmth than the earlier model and the bass to be not too obviously different. I have been running them both of an SRM-3 and 707 amp.

 The various Lambda Signatures (which I believe started with the Nova series) had lower capacitance cables and I have seen one reference in some promotional litertaure that it's transducer may have had a marginally thinner diaphragm than even the 404, but the reference may have simply been the result of rounding down the spec.

 So for me the design issues that matter in the Lambda are cable and diaphragm thickness and I have never seen anything else documented._

 

The original Signatures, the Nova series, and the x0x series 'phones have different stator design and/or diaphragm thickness than the original Lambda and Lambda Pro, and from eachother. So they sound a little different while still bearing that characteristic "Lambda sound". I'm sure Stax at the time regarded each one as an improvement from the last, but history doesn't always agree with current thought. Anyway, the only way to know for sure is to physically compare different models from different generations, which some of us have done.


----------



## Carl

Here's something interesting I've come across in my travels through the aether. No idea how good it is, but it does appear to warrent further investigation.






Masters BA-215TM/STAX

 It's a 15Wpc speaker amp slash electrostatic headphone amp. Tube complement is the fairly venerable 12AU7->6SN7->EL34, similar to what the ES-1 uses. Price is Y168,000 which is about US$1450. Anyone feel like taking one for the team?


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_MaloS , I find your experiences with the HD595 vs SR-005A interesting, to me the SR-005A is significantly superior. It makes me wonder how you're driving the 595s. Your experience with the SR-84 reminds me of mine with the SR-X Mk3. Classical guitar is also something they excel at._

 

hd595 at the time of comparison was driven by a mere Porta Corda with a 9v 800 mA power supply (which I am pretty sure allowed me to get quite a bit of current flowing through the hd595), while the srs-005a was as it was, the whole thing driven out of a Micro DAC. srs-005a produced tiny bit more detail (or to my ear it was more so detail amount was the same but 005a made it a bit sharper), but hd595 produced much more discrete and elaborate soundstage. The bass amount was about the same, so it really came down to the soundstage and comfort issue. Also I am not perfectly sure how much of an issue it was, but at the time of comparison srs-005a had slightly over 200 hours on it, but I stopped noticing any improvement after 100 hours. I am tempted to say that the issue is with srm-252a, or it could be the disagreement between Micro DAC and sr-003 (which catscratch pointed out to me but I chose to try it anyways)

 After I started using Darkvoice 332 hd595 became even closer on the detail and took over the bass compartment, plus the soundstage improved in quality and size.

 Now what is strangely interesting, what led me originally to wanting the SRS was my experience with sr-001 - very old experience, that I did not get with 003. But, that type of sound came out of the SR-80 (not quite but similar enough), which is a rather pleasant surprise, although its sound in a way is like what people experience with Grados, but more refined in its behaviour, I found it very engaging and with an interesting soundstage when used with bands like Pink Floyd and Rush. The only thing I want to do is see if I can get better pads for it (it has grado pads right now, comfort is comparable, I intend on trying some velours with it to see what happens).

 Edit: on further though, I just realized that I found sr-80 extremely guitar friendly, regardless of the type.


----------



## basb

Sorry to interrupt, couldn't reply sooner 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most OTL tube amps have good voltage drive and are limited in current. They will put out more power into higher impedence loads (16-32 ohms). Just the opposite of a direct coupled solid state amp that is limited in voltage but has plenty of current and puts out it's max wattage into 2-4 ohms. Tube amps with output transformers put out their maximum power centered around the secondary impedence taps (4,8,16 ohms)._

 

Thanks for your post. Now, because I'm going to try the cyber 30 anyway with the srd-7 pro once it arrives:

 Because a low powered transformer output tube amp and a stax transformer obviously weren't designed with each other in mind, is there any risk of damage when using the to together?

 I guess there is not much danger to it, but a definitive answer would be nice for anyone interested in tube amps and stax.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Because a low powered transformer output tube amp and a stax transformer obviously weren't designed with each other in mind, is there any risk of damage when using the to together?

 I guess there is not much danger to it, but a definitive answer would be nice for anyone interested in tube amps and stax._

 

Not unless there's something especially untoward going on in either the amp or the transformer box. All those transformers are really going is changing the voltage to current ratio, not running a nuclear power plant or doing brain surgery.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I too would like to recable my SR-Xes but retain the original insulation... alas, probably not possible with the new flat-style Stax extension cords. No need for a 6 pin plug, right - the 6th pin is a dummy pin?

 Patrick_

 

The sixth pin isn't a dummy. It is the left driver bias pin but they are connected together in the socket.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sixth pin isn't a dummy. It is the left driver bias pin but they are connected together in the socket._

 


 Spritzer, how does that translate into recabling an SR-X with a 5-pin-plug extension cord? I think I need to solder three wires into each driver (+ and - for signal, and one for bias), and I hope the extension cord provides those six connections, similarly colour-coded as in the old cable. Otherwise I'd get hopelessly confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, how does that translate into recabling an SR-X with a 5-pin-plug extension cord? I think I need to solder three wires into each driver (+ and - for signal, and one for bias), and I hope the extension cord provides those six connections, similarly colour-coded as in the old cable. Otherwise I'd get hopelessly confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




!_

 

They may have five pins, but they still have six wires.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They may have five pins, but they still have six wires._

 

Thanks! Same colours?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! Same colours?_

 

Open it up and have a look.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your post. Now, because I'm going to try the cyber 30 anyway with the srd-7 pro once it arrives:

 Because a low powered transformer output tube amp and a stax transformer obviously weren't designed with each other in mind, is there any risk of damage when using the to together?

 I guess there is not much danger to it, but a definitive answer would be nice for anyone interested in tube amps and stax._

 

There should be no problem. But remember that a 3.5 watt amp driving a SRD will probably only provide a max of 150 volts to the stats. Most SRM's can deliver between 300-400 volts. Some of the aftermarket direct drive amps can deliver as high as 1500 volts. Your little amp may clip easily. If you hear any clipping back off on the volume.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, how does that translate into recabling an SR-X with a 5-pin-plug extension cord? I think I need to solder three wires into each driver (+ and - for signal, and one for bias), and I hope the extension cord provides those six connections, similarly colour-coded as in the old cable. Otherwise I'd get hopelessly confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





!_

 

With the 5 pin standard both diaphragms are connected to the right bias pin. The extension cord is a flat 6 core cable and there is no color coding. Stax doesn't use double insulation like Sennheiser did with their stat line. It's best to use a continuity meter to check what wire is what and reuse the crimp connectors that connect too the drivers. You can solder but you have to be very careful with excess flux and castoff.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's something interesting I've come across in my travels through the aether. No idea how good it is, but it does appear to warrent further investigation.






Masters BA-215TM/STAX

 It's a 15Wpc speaker amp slash electrostatic headphone amp. Tube complement is the fairly venerable 12AU7->6SN7->EL34, similar to what the ES-1 uses. Price is Y168,000 which is about US$1450. Anyone feel like taking one for the team? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That looks a whole lot like a Dynaco ST-70, with a small gain stage (preamp) added upfront. Interesting...


----------



## d-cee

WoW

 i am like forever indebted to you guys

 i've recently been getting into classical music - symphonies and orchestral suites.

 after getting my first electrostat rig and upgrading my dynamic rig

 the electrostat rig is simply mind bogglingly worlds ahead of the dynamic system for clarity, detail and definition in classical music. i simply cannot listen to classical on my dynamics without feeling like i am in my car listening to its stock speakers losing ever last glimmer of detail and finesse that is embodied by well produced/recorded classical

 listening barber's adagio for strings, mahler's symphony #5 and rodrigo's concerto aranjeuz are like a completely different experience to me, in particular is string instruments and complex passages is where the stats truly shine, effortless in presenting the detail

 my appreciation for the skills of of the musicians is greatly increased as i can hear that much more of their performance that it astounds me, dynamics sounded nice but amalgamated the sounds all together so much i really couldn't hear each strut of the violin strings and pause taken before each trumpet blow, just incredible. my respect for musos has gone up 1000% 

 i think for piano, in particularly beethoven's moonlight sonata i think the dynamics have a bit more impact and visceral thud and warmth...

 argh, and don't even get my started on vocal/operatics...


----------



## jigster

There are so many variants of Stax energizers & amps around. Just curious if the improvements of the 006t or the 006tII are significant over the older T1, T1s variants.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hrm, to join the club for a second time, (after using sr-005a and finding them having no superiority over hd595), I just for the hell of it bought sr-84 + t-amp._

 

Welcome back!
 May you have a more enjoying stay this time... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's something interesting I've come across in my travels through the aether. No idea how good it is, but it does appear to warrent further investigation.





Masters BA-215TM/STAX_

 

Nice find!
 I sure would be interested in more information about this amplifier. Especially if someone have ever listened to one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, because I'm going to try the cyber 30 anyway with the srd-7 pro once it arrives_

 

Looks like a great versatile amplifier.
 I think its 2 x 3.5 watts might be a bit on the low side for powering a pair of Stax phones through an SRD-7 Pro. Keep us posted when you have listened to it..


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Well, going to the NYC show in Bayside, NY got me going a little bit. You see, like all of you out there, I am also interested in great sound and may be a little to willing to pay $ too much to get it. So the next day, I went down to Lyric Hi Fi on Madison Avenue and saw a used Stax Intergrated Amp 125. I previously had been using a Stax SRM1/MK2 to run my two pair of Stax Sigma Low Bias headphones. I thought I was completely happy with this set up. I ask the Salesman, Bob, what he was asking for the used Stax 125 amp. He responded a certain number $ and I negotiated $50 off of that price. We both were happy. So when I got home and hooked them up to my headphones and my favorite internet radio program, Hearts of Space, I was completely flawed by the sound produced by the used Stax 125 amp. To put it mildly, the Stax 125 amp running both of my Stax Low Bias Sigmas were an significant improvement of the SRM1/mk2s. Dare I say that they sounded better than my Stax Omega 2s with my SRM007t tubed amp. Oh my god; is this allowed to be said on Headfi.org. Well, that was totally my impression. 
 So, if you happen to have a old pair of non pro sigmas around- try using the 125 amp as see if you agree. I will state that I am of sound mind and body when I say this. Enjoy the day. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice find!
 I sure would be interested in more information about this amplifier. Especially if someone have ever listened to one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Doubtful. I don't think anyone in Japan even has one.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To put it mildly, the Stax 125 amp running both of my Stax Low Bias Sigmas were an significant improvement of the SRM1/mk2s. Dare I say that they sounded better than my Stax Omega 2s with my SRM007t tubed amp. Oh my god; is this allowed to be said on Headfi.org. Well, that was totally my impression._

 

Scottsmrnyc
 I take it that your talking about a SRA-12s Stax amp? I love my 12s. I prefer it to my SRM-1 mkII pro on the low bias Lambda, SRX-III and SR-5. The 12s has a mellower tonal balance than the SRM. The bass is more pronounced and seems deeper. The midrange is a little more laid back. The 12s is also well designed and made. All the separate circuits are on plug in cards with gold contacts. It can also be used as a passive or active line stage with pre outs. It has a good MM phono stage and a tape loop. I have a Behringer EQ in the loop. It gets quite hot so I have a low speed fan on top of it. The SRA-12s was the preamp to drive the DA-80 and DA-300 class A amps back in the late 70's. The owners manual shows the whole system including the big Stax full range ESL loudspeakers. If you ever want to sell it I have a friend that would buy it. Enjoy!

 AudioD


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hrm, to join the club for a second time, (after using sr-005a and finding them having no superiority over hd595), I just for the hell of it bought sr-84 + t-amp.

 Quite impressive for something for the 80s and a total price that would just get me sr-003 alone >.< The timbre of classical guitar on recordings that I have is extremely natural and real...just fish they had a bit more bass xD Makes for a decent temporary compliment to hd595 (hd595 rock, sr-84 for classical).

 Anyone know if a better speaker amplifer than the t-amp will grant them more bass? I am kinda entertaining myself by keeping this setup mostly vintage, don't feel like adding a modern stax amp to this. Plus a speaker amplifier is something I intend on having and using in the long run._

 

If you want a decent little amp with more bass output, either the Trends t-amp @ $100 or the Firestone Audio Big Joe @ $210should do the trick as neither have the rolloff in the bass that the SI t-am does. I imagine the bass increase will still be small doe to the phones limited response down there.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

I just didn't have my glasses on to see the numbers on the unit. Enjoy Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

At Lyric HiFi on Madison Ave and E83 in Manhattan, nyc. They were on the used equipment shelf tagged at $300. I negotiated the price to $250. I guess I was in the right place at the right time. Enjoy Scottsmrnnyc.


----------



## derekbmn

He was talking about the Masters Stax amp pictured above.
 Nice find for both of you though.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the 5 pin standard both diaphragms are connected to the right bias pin. The extension cord is a flat 6 core cable and there is no color coding. Stax doesn't use double insulation like Sennheiser did with their stat line. It's best to use a continuity meter to check what wire is what and reuse the crimp connectors that connect too the drivers. You can solder but you have to be very careful with excess flux and castoff._

 

Thanks! That's what I wanted to know.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Thanks for your help and ideas. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## saint.panda

*Carl*, do you know how to contact the dealer/manufacturer of the Masters amp? It looks very intriguing and is priced right at my budget. You know where to investigate further? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be that I'll get my Woo Stat amp. before you ever see the EA-6.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

*mikeg*, did you order a stock GES or one with certain modifications / upgrades? Also, do you know if Mr. Woo has improved things upon the original Gilmore design? In any case, I really can't wait for your impressions. Just got myself a HE90 and the Woo amp is the one that I'm most interested in: tubes, fairly priced, relatively short waiting time and apparently very good customer service. I also liked his reasonable spending approach towards upgrades when I contacted him about a "maxxed" GES. None of the other manufactures fulfill all these criteria as well as Woo does and now it just needs to sound good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Upon inquiry, Headamp will be releasing a limited two-box BH but at an estimated price of slightly more than $3000 it will be above my budget.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Upon inquiry, Headamp will be releasing a limited two-box BH but at an estimated price of slightly more than $3000 it will be above my budget._

 

Not really sure what "inquiry" mean, but I take this as a statement and not a question.
 If correct, do you have any source of information about this upcoming amplifier?

 Cause it might end up being the closest I get to a perfect amplifier for my system.


----------



## saint.panda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not really sure what "inquiry" mean, but I take this as a statement and not a question.
 If correct, do you have any source of information about this upcoming amplifier?

 Cause it might end up being the closest I get to a perfect amplifier for my system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I got the info from Justin when asking him about the Aristaeus. Just send him an email. I didn't investigate any further because it's over my budget and from asking a few people, I'm not too confident about the synergy of the KGSS/BH line of amps in combination with the HE90.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got the info from Justin when asking him about the Aristaeus. Just send him an email. I didn't investigate any further because it's over my budget and from asking a few people, I'm not too confident about the synergy of the KGSS/BH line of amps in combination with the HE90._

 

Ok, I understand.
 Then I will send an email to Justin, asking if he could share some information.


----------



## saint.panda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I understand.
 Then I will send an email to Justin, asking if he could share some information._

 

Sent you everything I know via pm. Not much info anyway, but perhaps a bit useful.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sent you everything I know via pm. Not much info anyway, but perhaps a bit useful._

 

Very useful. Thanks!


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's something interesting I've come across in my travels through the aether. No idea how good it is, but it does appear to warrent further investigation.






Masters BA-215TM/STAX

 It's a 15Wpc speaker amp slash electrostatic headphone amp. Tube complement is the fairly venerable 12AU7->6SN7->EL34, similar to what the ES-1 uses. Price is Y168,000 which is about US$1450. Anyone feel like taking one for the team? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, if it really comes with a quad of Mullard EL34s (as the web page seems to imply), that's worth almost the price of the amp. I don't know if anyone is currently manufacturing "Mullard"-branded EL34s though.

 Patrick


----------



## niels

Sorry, I have some silly questions !
 I have a Stax srm 006t and SR 4040, and this works ok.
 When you talk about amps in front of this set, what do you mean then ? That amp will not drive the 4040, the srm 006t do that....., I dont get it.

 Niels.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I have some silly questions !
 I have a Stax srm 006t and SR 4040, and this works ok.
 When you talk about amps in front of this set, what do you mean then ? That amp will not drive the 4040, the srm 006t do that....., I dont get it.

 Niels._

 

I assume you mean the SR-404? Yes, you cannot drive the SR-404 from a normal amplifier, you'd need something like the SRM-006t or a transformer box. There are though some amplifiers that can power the headphones directly just like the SRM-006t does. If you have one of those you do not need to use the SRM-006t. These amplifiers will have the 5-pin Pro bias socket just like the SRM-006t.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if it really comes with a quad of Mullard EL34s (as the web page seems to imply), that's worth almost the price of the amp. I don't know if anyone is currently manufacturing "Mullard"-branded EL34s though.

 Patrick_

 

They're Svetlana "Mullards," according to the translation of the web page...

 Still an interesting amp.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Carl*, do you know how to contact the dealer/manufacturer of the Masters amp? It looks very intriguing and is priced right at my budget. You know where to investigate further? 


*mikeg*, did you order a stock GES or one with certain modifications / upgrades? Also, do you know if Mr. Woo has improved things upon the original Gilmore design? In any case, I really can't wait for your impressions. Just got myself a HE90 and the Woo amp is the one that I'm most interested in: tubes, fairly priced, relatively short waiting time and apparently very good customer service. I also liked his reasonable spending approach towards upgrades when I contacted him about a "maxxed" GES. None of the other manufactures fulfill all these criteria as well as Woo does and now it just needs to sound good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Upon inquiry, Headamp will be releasing a limited two-box BH but at an estimated price of slightly more than $3000 it will be above my budget._

 

I asked Jack Wu to construct an amp that will have the proper voltage outputs (and also the proper connectors) for stax and HE90 headphones. I didn't quibble over price or upgrades; i.e., I just told him to produce what he considered to be the best product. At the beginning of February, Mr. Wu told me by email, that the amp. will probably be finished in about 5 weeks, and we haven't been in contact since. In one of our communications, he said that the electrostat amp that he is now producing is substantially better than the one that he originally produced. When I receive it, I'll compare it carefully to my McAlister EA-4 amp. And, if the Woo amp performs substantially better with my HE90, than my first generation McAlister (which may by now have been superseded by the McAlister EA-6) then I'll assume that this Woo amp's performance approximates that of the HEV90. I base this conclusion on the fact that, in several previous comparisons that I made between the HEV90 and my McAlister EA-4, the McAlister amp's performance was approximately 85% that of the HEV90. Thus, if the Woo amp's performance clearly exceeds that of the McAlister's, I will draw the conclusion that the Woo amp's level of performance approximates that of the HEV90's. I also plan to bring the Woo amp., the McAlister amp., and the HE90 to a forthcoming early June meet in Tampa, FL, so that others can sample them, and post their own conclusions. An Aristaeus will also probably be brought to this meet.


----------



## derekbmn

Wowsers !!


----------



## MaloS

That looks kinda steep for an original used sr-lambda, doesn't it?
http://www.audiocubes.com/category/H...rspeakers.html


----------



## derekbmn

For a low bias ..... yes it's real high.


----------



## MaloS

SRD-7 has pro-bias output, right? I can see one to bid on and I think I want to grab it for use in the future since I definitely will have Stax and I think I'd like to have the option of using speaker amplifiers, I like to have options (and speakers)


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRD-7 has pro-bias output, right? I can see one to bid on and I think I want to grab it for use in the future since I definitely will have Stax and I think I'd like to have the option of using speaker amplifiers, I like to have options (and speakers) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The one on ebay now is not the desireable SRD-7 MK2 (one normal & one pro high bias outlet) or SRD-7 PRO (2 pro high bias outlets). I'd skip it .


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRD-7 has pro-bias output, right? I can see one to bid on and I think I want to grab it for use in the future since I definitely will have Stax and I think I'd like to have the option of using speaker amplifiers, I like to have options (and speakers) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Unfortunately the regular SRD-7 only has normal bias outputs. In the SRD-7 family it's only the "SRD-7 Pro" and "SRD-7 Mk2" that have Pro bias outputs and both will say their name clearly on the front faceplate.


----------



## MaloS

Cool thanks for the heads-up. I'll just keep a look out, not in any form of a rush to get one of these boxes =]


----------



## Carl

Naughty double post! Bad bad!


----------



## Carl

Been listening to my new acquisition. Very ambivalent about it.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Carl*, do you know how to contact the dealer/manufacturer of the Masters amp? It looks very intriguing and is priced right at my budget. You know where to investigate further?_

 

You'd truely be a prince among men if you took one for the team on it.

 The page I listed (ie. this one) appears to be the online store that sell Masters products. If there's some particular bit of text on the site you'd like me to translate for you I'd be happy to, however my Japanese language ability is by no means good enough to draft emails to the people regarding international sales. You'll need to find someone with proper Japanese language proficiency to help you with that.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if it really comes with a quad of Mullard EL34s (as the web page seems to imply), that's worth almost the price of the amp. I don't know if anyone is currently manufacturing "Mullard"-branded EL34s though.

 Patrick_

 

It comes with Svetlana EL34s (I assume the C logo variety). I'm guessing that Mullards can bit fitted as an option or something. Some translation software might be able to net you further information (or might not it yield).


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wowsers !!_

 

Wow. Well, at least they didn't pay that for a SR40. Or an Aperio.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* 
_I'll just keep a look out, not in any form of a rush to get one of these boxes =]_

 

Discouragingly, the most recent auction for an SRD-7 Pro ended at $131 plus shipping. Let's hope the swing back to discussions of direct-drive amps of dazzling price and complexity takes some of the heat out of the auctions for the low-tech, yesterday's-news po'-boy transformer boxes.

 .


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Discouragingly, the most recent auction for and SRD-7 Pro ended at $131 plus shipping. Let's hope the swing back to discussions of direct-drive amps of dazzling price and complexity takes some of the heat out of the auctions for the low-tech, yesterday's-news po'-boy transformer boxes.

 ._

 

O.o ... I might have to DIY, glad I am studying the right thing.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* 
_O.o ... I might have to DIY, glad I am studying the right thing._

 

At some point, I intend to remove and scan both sides of the voltage multiplier circuit pcb so that you can do exactly that using a normal-bias SRD-7 as a starting point. Should be the cost effective way in to the madness..

 Carl, I've been letting my attention wander. What new acquisition is it that's giving you a case of the ambivalents?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, I've been letting my attention wander. What new acquisition is it that's giving you a case of the ambivalents?_

 

*Taps nose redolently*


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At some point, I intend to remove and scan both sides of the voltage multiplier circuit pcb so that you can do exactly that using a normal-bias SRD-7 as a starting point. Should be the cost effective way in to the madness..._

 

Cool, I have SRD-4 to use as starting point to figure this thing out. I don't know about cost-effective but designing a DIY adapter schematic certainly wouldn't hurt since it would allow alot of Stax users to expand their choice of amplifiers.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, I have SRD-4 to use as starting point to figure this thing out. I don't know about cost-effective but designing a DIY adapter schematic certainly wouldn't hurt since it would allow alot of Stax users to expand their choice of amplifiers._

 

The simple approach would be to take that SRD-4, design a bias supply for it, and replace all the wire and transformers.


----------



## MaloS

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...DME:L:RTQ:US:1

 staring at this thing...6 pin outs.
 is pro bias 5 pin?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...DME:L:RTQ:US:1

 staring at this thing...6 pin outs.
 is pro bias 5 pin?_

 

Nope, 230v all round. That's the SRD-7/SB.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Discouragingly, the most recent auction for an SRD-7 Pro ended at $131 plus shipping. Let's hope the swing back to discussions of direct-drive amps of dazzling price and complexity takes some of the heat out of the auctions for the low-tech, yesterday's-news po'-boy transformer boxes.

 ._

 

Oops... sorry, that was my bad. I was thinking these pro-bias units were going for just a bit more than that these days. Was this price high? Man, my impatience sure does cost me a bunch of money! 

*Edit* Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280087899461

 I'm not really even sure why I bought this thing. I wanted to hear it in comparison to my SRM1 MkII, but I really don't have a very good conventional amp to compare it with. I have a Moscode 300 which is good on my loudspeakers but I betcha it is a bit noisy for headphones. We'll see... it may be up for sale soon!


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops... sorry, that was my bad. I was thinking these pro-bias units were going for just a bit more than that these days. Was this price high? Man, my impatience sure does cost me a bunch of money! _

 

I didn't think the price was all that high, but don't have any reference points for the pro energizers. Anyone know what the average is? I want one, and you outbid me for it, lol! I also saw at least one other Head-Fi'er in the auction early on, but I think it got too rich.

 After losing that auction, I decided I'd take a chance on finding one of these at a used shoppe somewhere, as all this old Stax junk has just gotten bid up way too high, probably due mostly to this website, in all honesty.


----------



## derekbmn

The ending price on it wasn't bad at all IMO. And cheaper than what the last couple went for here.I really thought it would go for a bit more.


----------



## wualta

Whoops on me-- didn't mean to imply any bads on the part of anyone here, including the "talking it up" part. $131 might indeed be a little lower than the going rate, but it's discouraging for a newbie who got his SRD-7 + SR-X Mk3 for less than a hundred and now wants to step up to high bias (which *is* 5-pin on the Stax Planet, MaloS-- you are correct). Speaking generally, it's probably close to the going rate... _today_. Was it close to this amount a year or two ago? I doubt it. But that's life in the big city, and I feel as responsible for the rise in prices for the transformer boxes as much as anyone here. As you were, carry on.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't think the price was all that high, but don't have any reference points for the pro energizers. Anyone know what the average is? I want one, and you outbid me for it, lol! I also saw at least one other Head-Fi'er in the auction early on, but I think it got too rich._

 

Well it may not cooperate with my Moscode amp... and since I don't listen to conventional amplifiers (I use Acoustat HV amps - something we don't want to hook to a Stax transformer!), I may end up selling this thing. I'll look you up if I do. It looks like it has a few dings on the top of the face, so I'll surely be selling it at a discount.

 BTW, sorry for the snipe. I've been using an automated bidder for quite some time now, since I know I'm fully capable of making silly last-minute bidding decisions.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops... sorry, that was my bad. I was thinking these pro-bias units were going for just a bit more than that these days. Was this price high? Man, my impatience sure does cost me a bunch of money!_

 

I don't think the price was all that high. Afaik I bought the last one that was put up for sale, and I paid a little bit more. The one before that one went for more than $200.
 I got a pretty good deal on my SRD-7 MK2 though...


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well it may not cooperate with my Moscode amp... and since I don't listen to conventional amplifiers (I use Acoustat HV amps - something we don't want to hook to a Stax transformer!), I may end up selling this thing. I'll look you up if I do. It looks like it has a few dings on the top of the face, so I'll surely be selling it at a discount.

 BTW, sorry for the snipe. I've been using an automated bidder for quite some time now, since I know I'm fully capable of making silly last-minute bidding decisions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not at all. I had to go to bed, so I set it at what I thought I was willing to pay, and you just wanted it a little bit more! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess if you look at the cost to build something like that, the price really isn't too bad. Let me know if you decide not to keep it, and I'll gladly take it off your hands. I have a couple of amps here I'd love to try with the OmegaIIs.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
I got the info from Justin when asking him about the Aristaeus. Just send him an email. I didn't investigate any further because it's over my budget and from asking a few people, I'm not too confident about the synergy of the KGSS/BH line of amps in combination with the HE90.

 

Ok, I understand.
 Then I will send an email to Justin, asking if he could share some information._

 

Email sent!
 Hopefully Justin will answer me promptly, with some more information about his upcoming limited edition electrostatic amplifier.

 Can't wait...


----------



## NeilPeart

Yeah I also bid on that SRD-7 Pro but it seems my maximum wasn't high enough! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Perhaps this will force me away from my Lambda Pro/HE60 lusting and my K1000 will remain a monogamous choice...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The original Signatures, the Nova series, and the x0x series 'phones have different stator design and/or diaphragm thickness than the original Lambda and Lambda Pro, and from eachother. So they sound a little different while still bearing that characteristic "Lambda sound". I'm sure Stax at the time regarded each one as an improvement from the last, but history doesn't always agree with current thought. Anyway, the only way to know for sure is to physically compare different models from different generations, which some of us have done._

 

I am looking at my Lambda Nova and the stator is some form of wire mesh.

 However, the Sigma pro (which was modified from the low bias model by Stax Japan about 1998) has what appears to be a perforated copper plate. The Sigma is not a Lambda but was the precursor and has many construction features the same.

 I wonder which other Sigma/Lambda models are mesh or perforated plate and are there other stator designs for these phones?

 The mesh would appear to be more transparent but the plate might be stronger.


----------



## spritzer

All Lambdas until the Nova series used perforated copper stators and the Nova and the Omega 1 used mesh stators. I think the move to mesh has a lot to do with controlling resonances. While the mesh will ring it wont behave like a single plate. This is a huge problem with all stators and there have been some ingenious solutions. The use of PCB stators in the SR-007 does solve this problem but it brings another one to the table. The PCB is only conductive on the side that faces away from the diaphragm and this increases the D/S (diaphragm/stator) spacing. You could always use a thinner spacer but then you could limit excursion and cause other huge problems. I believe that Stax chose to keep the spacers at 0.5mm or slightly less and thats why the Omegas are such a beast to drive. Even though electrostats may appear to be simple beasts they aren't easy to get right and I know there is a lot more that can be gotten from the right design.


----------



## krmathis

Anyone around here who just von the SRD-X pro auction on eBay?
STAX SRD-X Professional Portable Adaptor Pro Headphones

 Seems like a pretty good deal to me...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone around here who just von the SRD-X pro auction on eBay?
STAX SRD-X Professional Portable Adaptor Pro Headphones

 Seems like a pretty good deal to me..._

 

Not if it doesn't work. 

 I looked at it but would only go to $50.00 for an untested amp. I already have a similar pro only amp and it's pretty good with a Lambda or SR001. It's a bit underpowered for Sigma's and probably Omega's too.

 However they hold 8 C cells and are an alternative to those who don't want the main Stax portable, the SRM001MkII.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All Lambdas until the Nova series used perforated copper stators and the Nova and the Omega 1 used mesh stators. I think the move to mesh has a lot to do with controlling resonances. While the mesh will ring it wont behave like a single plate. This is a huge problem with all stators and there have been some ingenious solutions. The use of PCB stators in the SR-007 does solve this problem but it brings another one to the table. The PCB is only conductive on the side that faces away from the diaphragm and this increases the D/S (diaphragm/stator) spacing. You could always use a thinner spacer but then you could limit excursion and cause other huge problems. I believe that Stax chose to keep the spacers at 0.5mm or slightly less and thats why the Omegas are such a beast to drive. Even though electrostats may appear to be simple beasts they aren't easy to get right and I know there is a lot more that can be gotten from the right design._

 


 Didn't Koss also go through a similar progression with it's electrostatics, starting out with perforated copper and ending up with plastic on the ESP950?


----------



## spritzer

I haven't seen an ESP-950 but both the ESP 6 and 9 have perforated copper stators along with many other stats from the same era. Metalized plastic is so very Quad ESL


----------



## Tachikoma

Here's something that you don't see very often:
 Stax CA-X Preamp

 Are they still worth that much these days? o_o


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoops on me-- didn't mean to imply any bads on the part of anyone here, including the "talking it up" part. $131 might indeed be a little lower than the going rate, but it's discouraging for a newbie who got his SRD-7 + SR-X Mk3 for less than a hundred and now wants to step up to high bias (which *is* 5-pin on the Stax Planet, MaloS-- you are correct). Speaking generally, it's probably close to the going rate... today. Was it close to this amount a year or two ago? I doubt it. But that's life in the big city, and I feel as responsible for the rise in prices for the transformer boxes as much as anyone here. As you were, carry on._

 

I paid US$76 for a SRD-7 MK2 back in November, really the price rises seem to have occurred sometime this year from what I've seen.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At some point, I intend to remove and scan both sides of the voltage multiplier circuit pcb so that you can do exactly that using a normal-bias SRD-7 as a starting point. Should be the cost effective way in to the madness.._

 

I had some luck adding stages to the voltage multiplier with a little extension PCB attached to the top of the main one. At first I had a single stage on there to prove the concept and it worked as expected. Unfortunately when I tried to go for pro bias I had a small mistake in the circuit and fried the zener diode but I believe the concept is sound. One of these days I'll pick up some spares to fix it and give it another try if no one else beats me to it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, I've been letting my attention wander. What new acquisition is it that's giving you a case of the ambivalents?_

 

He wouldn't tell me either when I was visiting the other day. I wonder if perhaps he's waiting for the SR-404 to arrive so he can compare. I should chase up PriceJapan, I've not heard anything from them yet.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not if it doesn't work._

 

True!
 And in this case the seller made it pretty clear that he have not tested the unit, so there are a risk that it is not working properly.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's something that you don't see very often:
 Stax CA-X Preamp

 Are they still worth that much these days? o_o_

 

There's even a Dac X-1T on audiogon for sale and its HERE in Singapore!! But price is....
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 at least for me.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I paid US$76 for a SRD-7 MK2 back in November, really the price rises seem to have occurred sometime this year from what I've seen._

 

Late last year, into this year, seems to me. I was following those prices, wondering if I should buy an old Stax as well as a new one, just in case there is sonic or electronic difference I should account for in the design of my amp. At the beginning of the period a mid-nineties tube amp and accompanying top (equivalent to current 404) earspeaker had been sitting unsold for months for STG395, about USD600. The minute I was informed enough to know this is a bargain, I discovered someone pipped my by minutes -- after months in which the seller told me he didn't get any offers. Right after that someone else in Britain turned down an offer of EUR1000 for a 4040 set; this guy was so ****y that he said he wasn't posting, I could fly to London to pick up the kit. That was when I decided PriceJapan is my friend.

 Especially significant over this period was the rise in SRD-X prices, the first linestage-capable. amplifier-independent and even semi-portable model energizer

 But the really interesting thing is why all these people should so suddenly become interested in Stax. Since every wannabe trendsetter owns an i-Pod (I don't, of course), I wonder if the upsurge in interest implies that most of them heard first of the in-ear Staxes and then discovered the classic over-ear models. The sudden interest in the SRD-X, a portable driver for fullsize Stax, would thereby be explained.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, going to the NYC show in Bayside, NY got me going a little bit. You see, like all of you out there, I am also interested in great sound and may be a little to willing to pay $ too much to get it. So the next day, I went down to Lyric Hi Fi on Madison Avenue and saw a used Stax Intergrated Amp 125. I previously had been using a Stax SRM1/MK2 to run my two pair of Stax Sigma Low Bias headphones. I thought I was completely happy with this set up. I ask the Salesman, Bob, what he was asking for the used Stax 125 amp. He responded a certain number $ and I negotiated $50 off of that price. We both were happy. So when I got home and hooked them up to my headphones and my favorite internet radio program, Hearts of Space, I was completely flawed by the sound produced by the used Stax 125 amp. To put it mildly, the Stax 125 amp running both of my Stax Low Bias Sigmas were an significant improvement of the SRM1/mk2s. Dare I say that they sounded better than my Stax Omega 2s with my SRM007t tubed amp. Oh my god; is this allowed to be said on Headfi.org. Well, that was totally my impression. 
 So, if you happen to have a old pair of non pro sigmas around- try using the 125 amp as see if you agree. I will state that I am of sound mind and body when I say this. Enjoy the day. Scottsmrnyc
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So even this venerable unit is having a comeback.

 Low bias Sigmas sounding better than O2's? 

 I can't say, but I like all the Sigmas, the low bias, pro and the Sigma/404 (a Sigma pro with 404 components). They each have a distinctive spund signature and I guess I just like getting the drivers forward and away from my ears.

 I have been running low bias Sigmas off them for years, and quite enjoying them. Well actually one channel of the amp, was going bad so I didn't get much use of the amp for a few years, however, the preamp has remained the center of my speaker-based system. 

 Rather than repair the headphone amp, I finally located another defective 12S and cannibalized one amp card to get the original going again. 

 As is noted, this thing runs hot enough to cook a meal on. I partly solved this problem by connecting the interior power line (I believe it is a 700 volts) to a separate switch so that the headphone amp can be turned off when the unit is just being used as a pre-amp. 

 At this rate I should fix the other unit and just use it to drive low bias phones. I suspect there is just a transistor gone on each channel. Makes me wonder about converting one of the sockets to high bias.

 Edit: Part of the appeal of your Sigma may be the low bias sound per se. When I compare the low bias Sigma with the Sigma pro, the low bias phone seems a bit less harsh and it definitely has more ambience. I am familiar with the later effect through having used a dBx compander. When the compander is set to expand the dynamics of a signal, you get more oomph, but the sound becomes drier and there is less ambience, because the dB's of the low level sound are reduced. 

 Going to high bias seems to act like a compander. I don't think that you actually lose the ambience but because the peaks are louder you have to turn the volume down a bit, thereby reducing the low level sounds and making the overall sound seem less ambient for a phone which is otherwise identical.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At this rate I should fix the other Stax SRA-12s unit and just use it to drive low bias phones. I suspect there is just a transistor gone on each channel. Makes me wonder about converting one of the sockets to high bias._

 

I would like to convert mine to have one high-bias jack also. I have been looking at the schematic for the SRD-7 pro. I would like to have the schematic for the SRD-7 mkII because it has both high and low bias outputs.

 AudioD


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if it really comes with a quad of Mullard EL34s (as the web page seems to imply), that's worth almost the price of the amp. I don't know if anyone is currently manufacturing "Mullard"-branded EL34s though._

 

The new production Mullard EL34's are not worth the price of a cup of coffee.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's something that you don't see very often:
 Stax CA-X Preamp

 Are they still worth that much these days? o_o_

 

"Servicing is irrelevant on a unit of this caliber."






 Bzzzzt! I don't think so. Caps are caps, and they go bad. Don't buy anything from this guy.

 Patrick


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't seen an ESP-950 but both the ESP 6 and 9 have perforated copper stators along with many other stats from the same era. Metalized plastic is so very Quad ESL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just took my Koss 950 apart and the stators appear to be some sort of plastic. Interesting that Koss was doing this before Stax.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He wouldn't tell me either when I was visiting the other day. I wonder if perhaps he's waiting for the SR-404 to arrive so he can compare. I should chase up PriceJapan, I've not heard anything from them yet._

 

I am, yes. They better hurry up.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's even a Dac X-1T on audiogon for sale and its HERE in Singapore!! But price is....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 at least for me._

 

I'd like an X1t, but $7k? That's just crazy.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Servicing is irrelevant on a unit of this caliber."






 Bzzzzt! I don't think so. Caps are caps, and they go bad. Don't buy anything from this guy._

 

Agreed to a point, but the CA-X isn't going to catch fire like the T2 has been known to. They're supposed to be as well built as anything Stax has made.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just took my Koss 950 apart and the stators appear to be some sort of plastic. Interesting that Koss was doing this before Stax._

 

I'm pretty sure Koss beat Stax to higher biasing voltages, too. Koss' electrostatics devision (back in the day) was actually pretty ahead of the pack. I've had aquantances tell me that the Koss Model Two (ESL) still holds up pretty well by today's standards.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just took my Koss 950 apart and the stators appear to be some sort of plastic. Interesting that Koss was doing this before Stax._

 

Well Quad did it before everybody else in 1956 so... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 OTOH I'm not all that surprised, like Carl said, Koss had great ideas but they were badly executed. The ESP6 is a great great idea and the driver are great but they are too big, bulky and heavy. The same goes for the ESP9. They are too complicated for their own good.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* 
He wouldn't tell me either when I was visiting the other day. I wonder if perhaps he's waiting for the SR-404 to arrive so he can compare. I should chase up PriceJapan, I've not heard anything from them yet.

 

I am, yes. They better hurry up._

 

It seems PriceJapan were ignoring me because they thought I was from Russia(?!?) but that's now sorted and the SR-404s are shipping tomorrow I'm told.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OTOH I'm not all that surprised, like Carl said, Koss had great ideas but they were badly executed. The ESP6 is a great great idea and the driver are great but they are too big, bulky and heavy. The same goes for the ESP9. They are too complicated for their own good._

 

You're making me want to buy an ESP10 now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems PriceJapan were ignoring me because they thought I was from Russia(?!?) but that's now sorted and the SR-404s are shipping tomorrow I'm told._

 

Crazy Koreans <_< I guess this means they won't be here in time for the weekend then...


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just took my Koss 950 apart..._

 

Cool! Any photos possible?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're making me want to buy an ESP10 now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

You're not the only one. I've read that they sound worse then the ESP9's but they should be easier to Staxify so I don't care. The ESP9 OTOH just don't want to play nice...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're not the only one. I've read that they sound worse then the ESP9's but they should be easier to Staxify so I don't care. The ESP9 OTOH just don't want to play nice... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What aspect of the sound makes it worse? Bass rolloff?

 Oh, and while I'm on the subject, why does no one ever mention the ESP7?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What aspect of the sound makes it worse? Bass rolloff?

 Oh, and while I'm on the subject, why does no one ever mention the ESP7?_

 

I'm not sure since the owner didn't go into any detail. They might be a bit brighter due to their open design but I'm just speculating here. Only way to be sure is for me to buy them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The ESP7 is an ESP6 with external transformers and bias supply. I haven't seen a lot of them floating around but I could make my own set with the electronics I removed from the 6's.


----------



## jigster

I'm sure I'm not the only one who saw it but there's a SRA-12s on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-SRA-12s-SR5...QQcmdZViewItem

 And this is up again... 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-ED-1-Diffus...QQcmdZViewItem
 I wonder if this seller is bidding himself via different identities, I see a whole lot of Bidder 1, Bidder 2,... in his auctions.


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

The seller is a Head-fi member who regularly posts in this thread. The bidder 1, bidder 2 stuff is ebay's new 'privacy' measures and automatically kicks in on any auction when it exceeds $200.00. What it does is hide all the bidder's usernames with bidder 1, etc. It doesn't mean that anything untoward is occurring but does make it more difficult to detect shill bidding.

 Happy Listening!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And this is up again... 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-ED-1-Diffus...QQcmdZViewItem
 I wonder if this seller is bidding himself via different identities, I see a whole lot of Bidder 1, Bidder 2,... in his auctions._


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool! Any photos possible?_

 

Sorry already back together.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


 And this is up again... 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-ED-1-Diffus...QQcmdZViewItem
 I wonder if this seller is bidding himself via different identities, I see a whole lot of Bidder 1, Bidder 2,... in his auctions. 
 

That's me and I don't shill bid. The previous listing did not meet the reserve so it's up again.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_Oh, and while I'm on the subject, why does no one ever mention the ESP7?_

 

The ESP-7. There.

 The 7 seems to be a rationally-designed 6-- that is, the stepup transformers are in a separate box where they belong. But you're right, there's no excess of information on the 7. The 9 replaced both of them anyway. Cool-looking 'phone, the 7.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's me and I don't shill bid. The previous listing did not meet the reserve so it's up again._

 

Oops, apologies. But why does ebay show the bidders as Bidder 1,2,3 and so on? While others have nicks? Private bidders?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops, apologies. But why does ebay show the bidders as Bidder 1,2,3 and so on? While others have nicks? Private bidders?_

 

Because shill bidders make ebay money.


----------



## erikzen

Wow! Don't pay attention around here and all of a sudden the thread's up to 27 pages. No way to catch up.

 I'm sure this thread must be seriously derailed by now but there's no way I'm going to go through it all to find out. I'll just operate on that assumption and hope that I'm doing a service by posting a question about my Stax setup.

 I've been pretty sure that I could get more out of my rig. Don't get me wrong, after several years of trying to find a headphone that I really liked I came across the Lambda Pros. I've got them running off an AckdAck! 2 and the SRM-1/MKII. You guys know anyway, and besides it's in my sig.

 So last Saturday I was at the NYC meet and Mikhail had to go and bring the ES-1. I plugged in the Lambdas and was pretty sure they had turned into O2s. So it's true, the Lambdas are capable of more.

 "So Mikhail, what does this thing run?"

 "This one's pretty maxxed out"

 "So how much is it?"

 "It's hard to say"

 "Well, what do they run?"

 "They get pretty maxxed out at around $8000, but I'm doing a lot at about $6000. That must be the limit of a lot of people's credit cards."

 "So what do they start at?"

 "$4000, but most people are doing $6000."

 So at 4 large to start, there's no way I'm pulling that off under the wife's nose out of the joint bank account and I will not max out my credit card for audio equipment (I will not max out my credit card...I will not max out my credit card...I will not max out my credit card...).

 So the question now becomes how can I improve on my system without spending tons? New source, new transport, new amp, new cables, little rubber feet under the transport, Oxyclean for the connections?

 I'm really happy with the Ack dAck. I think it sounds really musical. I don't get any of the high end harshness others complain about with the Lambdas. Of course I may also be deaf, which of course would render this post completely useless, but I'll continue anyway.

 How important is a transport? I mean I've heard bozebutton's equipment but then again he's got tens of thousands of dollars in equipment so it's all relative, right? Is there something I could use as a transport that's going to be better than my modded Sony universal player? 

 The amp is kind of important right? Everyone says how the Lambda Pros have great synergy with the SRM-1/MKIII, but I know from listening to the ES-1 that there is room for improvement (although I don't know what the source was with the ES-1). I tried the TS1 tube amp at the meet but apparently it was on the RCA setting and it was running from a balanced source so that kind of rendered that audition useless - I didn't like the sound that much. What are some other amps that might work in this system that are reasonably priced?

 Can cables make a difference? I'm currently using some Golden Raincoats. Is there something that will make a significant difference and not cost $1000 and even if I spent $1000 what kind of difference could I actually hear?

 Is there anything else I could consider to tweak this system?


----------



## derekbmn

Personaly I would go with a nice tube or hybrid active preamp. Something with some 6dj8s (6922s). It will give you some much needed dynamics and the possibility to contour the sound a bit with tube rolling. The Lambda Pros seem to love tubes at least somewhere in the chain.


----------



## erikzen

Ah preamp! Tell me more so this weedhopper can grasp the pebble from your palm. Makes, models, links? Sorry, never thought to much about preamps.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personaly I would go with a nice tube or hybrid active preamp. Something with some 6dj8s (6922s). It will give you some much needed dynamics and the possibility to contour the sound a bit with tube rolling. The Lambda Pros seem to love tubes at least somewhere in the chain._

 

6DJ8s wouldn't be my first choice of tube. Though better than a 12AX7, I guess.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah preamp! Tell me more so this weedhopper can grasp the pebble from your palm. Makes, models, links? Sorry, never thought to much about preamps._

 

One word - MELOS. If you can find a SHA-1 Headphone amp/preamp or some of there straight preamps BUY ONE.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6DJ8s wouldn't be my first choice of tube. Though better than a 12AX7, I guess._

 

Carl what dont you like about them? I personally have a real affinity for them.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl what dont you like about them? I personally have a real affinity for them._

 

Too agressive. Music is more of a subtle, delicate thing than that, unless it's rock/metal, in which case they're fine.

 That said, there's very few higher gain tubes I have an affinity for.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! Don't pay attention around here and all of a sudden the thread's up to 27 pages. No way to catch up.

 I'm sure this thread must be seriously derailed by now but there's no way I'm going to go through it all to find out. I'll just operate on that assumption and hope that I'm doing a service by posting a question about my Stax setup.

 I've been pretty sure that I could get more out of my rig. Don't get me wrong, after several years of trying to find a headphone that I really liked I came across the Lambda Pros. I've got them running off an AckdAck! 2 and the SRM-1/MKII. You guys know anyway, and besides it's in my sig.

 So last Saturday I was at the NYC meet and Mikhail had to go and bring the ES-1. I plugged in the Lambdas and was pretty sure they had turned into O2s. So it's true, the Lambdas are capable of more.

 "So Mikhail, what does this thing run?"

 "This one's pretty maxxed out"

 "So how much is it?"

 "It's hard to say"

 "Well, what do they run?"

 "They get pretty maxxed out at around $8000, but I'm doing a lot at about $6000. That must be the limit of a lot of people's credit cards."

 "So what do they start at?"

 "$4000, but most people are doing $6000."

 So at 4 large to start, there's no way I'm pulling that off under the wife's nose out of the joint bank account and I will not max out my credit card for audio equipment (I will not max out my credit card...I will not max out my credit card...I will not max out my credit card...).

 So the question now becomes how can I improve on my system without spending tons? New source, new transport, new amp, new cables, little rubber feet under the transport, Oxyclean for the connections?

 I'm really happy with the Ack dAck. I think it sounds really musical. I don't get any of the high end harshness others complain about with the Lambdas. Of course I may also be deaf, which of course would render this post completely useless, but I'll continue anyway.

 How important is a transport? I mean I've heard bozebutton's equipment but then again he's got tens of thousands of dollars in equipment so it's all relative, right? Is there something I could use as a transport that's going to be better than my modded Sony universal player? 

 The amp is kind of important right? Everyone says how the Lambda Pros have great synergy with the SRM-1/MKIII, but I know from listening to the ES-1 that there is room for improvement (although I don't know what the source was with the ES-1). I tried the TS1 tube amp at the meet but apparently it was on the RCA setting and it was running from a balanced source so that kind of rendered that audition useless - I didn't like the sound that much. What are some other amps that might work in this system that are reasonably priced?

 Can cables make a difference? I'm currently using some Golden Raincoats. Is there something that will make a significant difference and not cost $1000 and even if I spent $1000 what kind of difference could I actually hear?

 Is there anything else I could consider to tweak this system?_

 


 I found that $35.00 for Silclear contact enhancer, put on powerplugs and IC's did a lot for my various Staxen.


----------



## d-cee

what's wrong with 12AX7s? and does it apply to their lower gain derivative the 5751...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too agressive. Music is more of a subtle, delicate thing than that, unless it's rock/metal, in which case they're fine.

 That said, there's very few higher gain tubes I have an affinity for._

 

I definitely like the 6DJ8 variants in my preamp although they are used as output tubes rather than gain tubes.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what's wrong with 12AX7s? and does it apply to their lower gain derivative the 5751..._

 

It's wholey incompatible with my sonic expectations.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops... sorry, that was my bad. I was thinking these pro-bias units were going for just a bit more than that these days. Was this price high? Man, my impatience sure does cost me a bunch of money! 

*Edit* Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280087899461

 I'm not really even sure why I bought this thing. I wanted to hear it in comparison to my SRM1 MkII, but I really don't have a very good conventional amp to compare it with. I have a Moscode 300 which is good on my loudspeakers but I betcha it is a bit noisy for headphones. We'll see... it may be up for sale soon!_

 

ferrstein, I sure hope everything turns out OK for this deal!
 Cause I just received this email from eBay: Quote:


 *Important Message from eBay Loss Prevention Department*
 Dear ... ,

 The following is a notice from eBay Trust & Safety regarding:

 Item Number - 280087899461

 Item Title - Stax SRD-7 Pro electrostatic headphone adapter

 Our records show that you were a bidder or buyer of one or more of this seller's items. We recently removed this seller's active listings and suspended the seller's trading privileges. Due to privacy concerns we cannot share further details about this seller.

 If the seller asks you to complete this transaction outside of eBay, we strongly recommend that you do not proceed with the transaction.
 ... 
 

Certainly don't look too promising!


----------



## jpelg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the question now becomes how can I improve on my system without spending tons?_

 

  Quote:


 How important is a transport? 
 

Depends on your DAC. I'd do some research on the Ack dAck to see if a different transport will improve things there.

 Btw, I believe the Meridian G08 was sourcing the big Singlepower amps that day. Quote:


 Ah preamp! 
 

While this may _change_ the resulting sound, I don't think it will ultimately do what you want. Which leads me to... Quote:


 The amp is kind of important right? Everyone says how the Lambda Pros have great synergy with the SRM-1/MKIII, but I know from listening to the ES-1 that there is room for improvement 
 

In speaking with Mikhail that day, he described how the ES-1 "grabs hold of the driver and bends it to it's will". I think this is what you were hearing, and where you will find you biggest improvement. The question is how to come closer to the ES-1 ideal without spending close to five figures. 

 Here again, I think some technical research is in order. What are the important things an electrostatic amp does? How does the amp interact with the electrostatic driver? What is it about the ES-1 that does it's job so well? Perhaps the DIY section here, as well as Headwize, would be good places to read up.

 My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo. The first incarnations of the ES-1 I heard sounded better with the O2's. But now, after several revisions, it's doing amazing things with the HE90's. Mikhail also said that using different tubes can shift the sound considerably.

 There are at least a few publicly posted e-stat amp designs out there on the web, and a couple of DIYFSE people willing to build them if you didn't want to give it a shot yourself (although DIY may be your best bang for the buck option).

 Not exactly the answers you were probably looking for, but constraints always require more 'out-of-the-box' thinking to solve the problem. Those are the things I'd investigate if a better, yet budget-conscious e-stat amp was in my future (and given my GF's propensity for Stax, it may be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## Carl

Rare to see you in the Stax thread, James. Stay a while.


----------



## terance

I just got my baby stax. . .and I am pretty much in love.

 they are a great compliment to my shure e500s, and i think they are worth every penny, my only question. . .

 the red light is on, what does this mean?!

 thanks guys!

 also someone mentioned a special cable i can buy that would help their sonic qualities come out, where can i get this?

 i'm already thinking about the things i could sell for the Omega IIs. . . .

 thanks stax


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah preamp! Tell me more so this weedhopper can grasp the pebble from your palm. Makes, models, links? Sorry, never thought to much about preamps._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personaly I would go with a nice tube or hybrid active preamp. Something with some 6dj8s (6922s). It will give you some much needed dynamics and the possibility to contour the sound a bit with tube rolling. The Lambda Pros seem to love tubes at least somewhere in the chain._

 

I also like the 6DJ8 (I’m using the Sovtek 6922). I use a Audible Illusions Modulus 3A (with the John Curl designed high gain phono stage). The line stage is a single high bias paralleled 6922 (both triodes in the 6922 wired in parallel). This preamp does not have the traditional cathode follower output stage. It doesn’t like to drive long cables or impedances much below 30K ohms. I can’t think of a tube circuit that puts the signal through less. It is also extremely well made. I’ve had this Modulus in my system for about 8 years (my longest run) and still love it. You can find them for reasonable prices on Audiogon. The linestage only version is called a L1. That’s my vote for most bang for the buck.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the red light is on, what does this mean?!_

 

Batteries nearly flat.

  Quote:


 i'm already thinking about the things i could sell for the Omega IIs. . . . 
 

The 003s have a bad tendency to do that.


----------



## terance

Carl;2774333 said:
			
		

> Batteries nearly flat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ferrstein, I sure hope everything turns out OK for this deal!
 Cause I just received this email from eBay:

 Certainly don't look too promising! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Got the same email this am! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is why I bid on ebay so infrequently...


----------



## Downrange

terance;2774338 said:
			
		

> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops, apologies. But why does ebay show the bidders as Bidder 1,2,3 and so on? While others have nicks? Private bidders?_

 

Once you hit a certain amount it hids the bidders name and just lists them as Bidder X. I'm sure if you searched eBay's help site you would get a good official answer.


----------



## ferrstein

Nope, it sure doesn't! This is the second time this has happened to me through ebay. In both cases, it was *AFTER* I had paid via Ebay's Paypal. In the first case, the product arrived just fine and as described. This time, who knows? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The real issue is that Ebay has cancelled all of this fellow's auctions and his account. Because of that, he may feel that there is no real reason to complete the transaction. Since I sent Paypal on Sunday, I'm hoping this item shipped before Ebay decided to kill this user. I'm not keeping my fingers crossed though! This may be the first in my many online transactions that I actually get burned! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll keep you all posted. At any rate, life goes on, there are bigger problems in the world, etc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ferrstein, I sure hope everything turns out OK for this deal!
 Cause I just received this email from eBay:

 Certainly don't look too promising! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One word - MELOS. If you can find a SHA-1 Headphone amp/preamp or some of there straight preamps BUY ONE._

 

Yes, the Tower of Power setup. I never really knew what the Melos was doing in that rig (fellow NY Head-Fier Jahn has a similar configuration). It seemed like a bit of overkill to me, but I never had a chance to listen to that setup under anything other than meet conditions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo. The first incarnations of the ES-1 I heard sounded better with the O2's. But now, after several revisions, it's doing amazing things with the HE90's. Mikhail also said that using different tubes can shift the sound considerably.

 There are at least a few publicly posted e-stat amp designs out there on the web, and a couple of DIYFSE people willing to build them if you didn't want to give it a shot yourself (although DIY may be your best bang for the buck option).

 Not exactly the answers you were probably looking for, but constraints always require more 'out-of-the-box' thinking to solve the problem. Those are the things I'd investigate if a better, yet budget-conscious e-stat amp was in my future (and given my GF's propensity for Stax, it may be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)._

 

The BH is a very neutral amp and it mates well with all of my stats. Cables and tubes make a huge difference and alter the sound a lot. The ES-1 and the Blue Hawaii can both be tailored to a specific sound with tube rolling though for me there is only Mullard. All other EL34's I've tried all impose their own sound and it gets tiring after awhile. 

 I am a little bit amazed how many people loved the BH at the NY meet since the tubes it used are horrible. They are NOS East-German Siemens but often rebranded and while they are better then the new stuff the Mullards are miles ahead.


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw, I believe the Meridian G08 was sourcing the big Singlepower amps that day._

 

A high quality source is always helpful and many people would say you can't get better than this. I have to determine if changing my source will add anything to my rig or if it will just change it. I'm pretty sure the Ack dAck provides a sound that I truly enjoy and also works well with a variety of phones.

  Quote:


 ...In speaking with Mikhail that day, he described how the ES-1 "grabs hold of the driver and bends it to it's will". I think this is what you were hearing, and where you will find you biggest improvement. The question is how to come closer to the ES-1 ideal without spending close to five figures. 

 Here again, I think some technical research is in order. What are the important things an electrostatic amp does? How does the amp interact with the electrostatic driver? What is it about the ES-1 that does it's job so well? Perhaps the DIY section here, as well as Headwize, would be good places to read up. 
 

 Yes, I'll do a search on "electrostatic" and "bend to its will". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo. The first incarnations of the ES-1 I heard sounded better with the O2's. But now, after several revisions, it's doing amazing things with the HE90's. Mikhail also said that using different tubes can shift the sound considerably. 
 

 That would make sense because when I plugged in the Lambdas into the Blue Hawaii I got a very unpleasant high end. There's no bass that needs to be toned down with the Lambdas - probably just the opposite in fact. I suppose by going tubes I could start to tweak the sound even more but that's a whole other can of worms. Tubes also aren't practical as my main rig in my home office where space is somewhat limited. I can't keep a tube amp in too many places with a 2 year old running around.

  Quote:


 DIY may be your best bang for the buck option. 
 

 Unfortunately, I one thing I have even less of than money is time. My first and only DIY attempt did result in something that actually produced decent sound but it was not pretty and took quite a long time. Not to mention that it was only $40 in parts so if I screwed it up, it was no big deal.

  Quote:


 Not exactly the answers you were probably looking for, but constraints always require more 'out-of-the-box' thinking to solve the problem. Those are the things I'd investigate if a better, yet budget-conscious e-stat amp was in my future (and given my GF's propensity for Stax, it may be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). 
 

Definitely food for thought, which is half the fun of this hobby anyway. Good luck with your girlfriend!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Doesn't have to. The power consumption/supply issue is the SR-001's Achilles heel. Some people use a wall wart (or better AC) supply for home use (careful, cheap supplies hum!); I put together a Radio Shack special for road use that doesn't add much bulk. You need 4.5V to get full bias voltage, iirc. Here's a bit from a post on another thread:

 "Love these little gems. FYI, I've been playing with powering them and found a good solution I can live with: they need pure DC to sound decent, and they need that 4.5V to fully charge the panels, apparently. After some experimentation, I've found four 1.2V EverReady 2500 maH rechargeable batteries are the ticket (the slight over-voltage is not a problem, and sounds much better than the under-voltage from using 3 - 1.2V cells). I've not been able to discharge them yet (going on four hours). The charger WalMart sells with these charges them in 15 minutes, too, unlike my old Ray-O-Vac 1300mah system from a few years back, which took hours. I use an enclosed four AA-cell battery holder (Radio Shack 270-409) that's extremely compact, yet has an on-off switch. This is just strapped back to back to the SR-001 amp, and fits very well. If you try this, be sure you do NOT put regular AA batteries in it, since that would be 6V or more, with fresh alkalines, and that would probably diminish amplifier component life, if not destroy it pretty quickly. 4.8-5.0V is fine, in my estimation, and actually enhances sound. (Solid-state devices usually operate safely over a voltage range that is wider than one might think; 12V systems run very well off of 12V batteries, or from a car accessory plug, which often is 13-14V DC.) For disclaimer, these are my experiences, and I'm not advocating running over-voltage on these, even though my experience is that 4.8-5V is fine.

 Anyway, these are a blast for portability, and the only thing I haven't resolved to my satisfaction yet is how to neatly police up all the cords so this works as a compact, orderly system. I'm looking at replacing battery pack to amp and Ipod to amp cables with some short coiled cords to provide strain relief and keep it all compact. The size and weight is not bad (and you could remove the two internal AA batteries if you wanted). You could even strap all three together if you needed too, although I think that might be a little unwieldy.

 The sound from the full DC-powered amplifier is very nice. I'm looking forward to obtaining a converter plug (someone said is available) so I can power them off my other amps. But for portable use, the SR-001 is about 85 per cent of the Lambda 2020 system (SR-202/SRM-212). It does some things a little better (no upper midrange peak, very smooth vocals), while lacking soundstage and some of the deepest bass. Very nice and economical system for road warriors!"

 Good luck - great little 'phones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Reading this makes me wonder: is it possible to run an SRM-212 off batteries, in the same way as terance has done?

 Anybody got any ideas/views/experiences of this?


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depends on your DAC. I'd do some research on the Ack dAck to see if a different transport will improve things there._

 

Some brief research would suggest that the SACDMods player I have (thanks Jimmy) should be a good transport. The power supply and clock both have been upgraded, which I would think would be the most important parts. I don't think I could improve much upon that without going ridiculously high in price for not much in return.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ That would make sense because when I plugged in the Lambdas into the Blue Hawaii I got a very unpleasant high end. There's no bass that needs to be toned down with the Lambdas - probably just the opposite in fact. I suppose by going tubes I could start to tweak the sound even more but that's a whole other can of worms. Tubes also aren't practical as my main rig in my home office where space is somewhat limited. I can't keep a tube amp in too many places with a 2 year old running around._

 

In my rig it's the lambdas that need to be toned down in the bass. All of the Lambdas I've heard have a very pronounced bass hump and a very woolly bass. This is the enclosures fault because it vibrates with the drivers. This bass hump leads many to believe the Lambdas have more or better bass then the O2's.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Reading this makes me wonder: is it possible to run an SRM-212 off batteries, in the same way as terance has done?

 Anybody got any ideas/views/experiences of this?_

 

Absolutely! But it would take more batteries, and be kind of heavy, since it's 12 VDC nominal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Since the SR-001 needs only 4.5V, it's just more practical.


----------



## jpelg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my rig it's the lambdas that need to be toned down in the bass. All of the Lambdas I've heard have a very pronounced bass hump and a very woolly bass. This is the enclosures fault because it vibrates with the drivers. This bass hump leads many to believe the Lambdas have more or better bass then the O2's._

 

Interesting in that what you've stated is completely contrary to my (non-owner) experience with the Lambdas vs. the O2's.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Absolutely! But it would take more batteries, and be kind of heavy, since it's 12 VDC nominal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Since the SR-001 needs only 4.5V, it's just more practical._

 

Doh! You're right, of course, I'd forgotten about the voltage being 12: I had in my mind the figure of 4, but that's the power consumption in Watts! Anybody got any idea how I could hold 10 NiMH 1.2V AA/LR6 batteries together?!


----------



## jpelg

Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?

 Also, in such a setup can a Class-D amp be used both effectively & safely?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?_

 

They can be driven by a low bias outlet but you will probably find them seriously lacking in volume and dynamics. You CANNOT drive them from an ELECTRET transformer like the srd-4.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting in that what you've stated is completely contrary to my (non-owner) experience with the Lambdas vs. the O2's._

 

It isn't a subtle difference but the O2's are hard to master and when you do they have much better bass and every thing else for that matter. It follows the recording much better then any other phone I've heard, imposing less of it self. The O2's only have this overpowering bass symptoms when the amp isn't up too snuff, the cables are too warm and the fit of the phones is wrong, not just the earpads but also and to a greater effect the headband. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw, is there a definitive answer as to whether Pro-bias electrostatics can be safely driven by a non-Pro, electret transformer long-term?

 Also, in such a setup can a Class-D amp be used both effectively & safely?_

 

They won't work out of an electret transformer since it doesn't have a bias supply. It's just the transformers in there but it's easy enough to built a PRO bias supply. You can drive a Pro phone from a normal socket indefinitely to no ill effect. You can even go the other way around in theory but don't drive them to hard because there is no room for error. 

 I've never tried a Class D amp with the transformers but the Tripath based amps have some trouble with the full range electrostatic speakers but I doubt it will translate to the adapters.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Reading this makes me wonder: is it possible to run an SRM-212 off batteries, in the same way as terance has done?

 Anybody got any ideas/views/experiences of this?_

 

If you really want to run a full-size Stax like a Lambda, you could try to get one of the older Battery-run amps (SRDP, SRDX etc.) They have space for 8 "c" cells. Just make sure you get one that has pro outlet.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The O2's only have this overpowering bass symptoms when ...the fit of the phones is wrong, not just the earpads but also and to a greater effect the headband. 
 ._

 

Would you mind sharing more about this? What have you experienced regarding the fit of the headband, its proper fit, etc.??


----------



## spritzer

For me and my gigantic head (it's enormous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) I had to bend the two metal bars at the break outwards so it's almost a continuous arc. This gave me a much better bass response and more mellow and natural bass and added a bit of sparkle to the highs. They were also a bit more comfy because their grip was a little looser. They are supposed to be adjusted in this manner because they can't swivel to fit the ear like 99.999% of all headphones out there. I've seen pictures of one pair where the arc was a 90° turn in the middle and there was another sharp bend next to each driver. 

 The user should experiment with the bend. If the bass is a little anemic they are pressing to hard on the head and if the bass is boomy they might be a bit too loose. This isn't a definitive guide but it is a start. 

 Another thing to consider is the condition of the earpads. The leather will hang on for ever but the foam lasted only 2.5 years on my set. If the foam in the pads are gone the bass is all soft and tubby and it's very hard to get the phones to fit correctly. The pads should pretty stiff to the touch and they are a pain to exchange 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . You should also rotate the pads so as the seams are facing the temples or forward at a 45° angle.


----------



## Downrange

Thanks, only had mine a couple of weeks! I'll experiment with your findings and see what I hear.


----------



## spritzer

Please do. For me this is essential to fully "get" them and what they can do. The other biggie is a very clear and uncluttered system sonics vise.


----------



## derekbmn

I'm curious as to where most OII owners in fact have their seams at.
 Mine are facing directly forward at the 3'oclock postion. And it sounds best there. I have tried it at the temple but they simply don't fit right at all there for me.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious as to where most OII owners in fact have their seams at._

 

I have my seams at 1:30 o'clock.
 Tried lots of different positions, but always return to this one. Cause it provide a good seal, and hence no booomy bass


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious as to where most OII owners in fact have their seams at.
 Mine are facing directly forward at the 3'oclock postion. And it sound best there. I have tried it at the temple but they simply don't fit right at all there for me._

 

Now, this is interesting. I too, have kept them pretty much directly forward (on line with my nose.) At first, I really didn't like them at a 45 degree angle up, but now I'm not sure. I'm listening back and forth to lots of familiar stuff here, and what I'm hearing is that the 45* position reduces mid-bass a little, seems to spread the soundstage a little (although, I wasn't sure and still am not that it's better or perhaps less focused), and, just like Spritzer said, gives a "bit more sparkle" (or extension?) to the highs.

 OK, listening to "Love Theme" from Blade Runner by Vangelis, I just rotated them back to the normal position. There IS a difference, dang it! but I can't decide which is better. Awfully close with this style music...

 Hmmm... one of the best tests would be one of the old 35mm Cozart/Fine Mercury recordings - back later.


----------



## Duggeh

I vary the position slightly. I found the best sound with the | of the D earpad hole at the back of my head, so the seam pointed forward. Combined with a pulldown it sounded great, but because of the gigantic size of my head, this caused issues with the headband arc.

 Mostly I wear them with the earpad seams pointing towards my eyes. ad with a light pressure which still seals all around.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm... one of the best tests would be one of the old 35mm Cozart/Fine Mercury recordings - back later.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

OK, Mercury CD 432 011-2 Byron Janis Schumann Piano Cto No. 1, Op. 23 - listening to the Intermezzo, there's no question to me that the soundstage is more compact and better focused at 90* (seam pointing to nose). The 45* (temple) setting spreads the piano across about 20 percent more of the stage than the 90* setting, yet, the tonalities are very pleasant. This is a tough choice.

 Could it be Stax designed these (and they did come wrapped from the factory thusly) for the perpendicular line to be straight up and down parallel to a plumb line dropped by the ear, in other words, with the seam pointing straight ahead? Apparently, and I'm swagging my rear off here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, the soundfield is constructed by having the roughly semicircular front and straight wall back. When they are rotated out of this alignment, the soundfield is skewed a bit, elevated maybe, but tonalities are different, maybe improved. 

 OK, now with the seams approximately half-way between nose and temple. This seems to be a good compromise between a tight image of the piano in its own space, the overall soundfield, and the tonalities, but I'll have to listen more. Is it possible all these little tweaks of positioning have as much to do with the shape of one's ears as the design of the 'phones??
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the ideas, anyway, Spritzer! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (BTW, associated equipment Apple Lossless rip from iTunes to Airport Express optical to Electrocompaniet ECD-1, Silver Resolution balanced to SRM-007tII.)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, this is interesting. I too, have kept them pretty much directly forward (on line with my nose.) At first, I really didn't like them at a 45 degree angle up, but now I'm not sure. I'm listening back and forth to lots of familiar stuff here, and what I'm hearing is that the 45* position reduces mid-bass a little, seems to spread the soundstage a little (although, I wasn't sure and still am not that it's better or perhaps less focused), and, just like Spritzer said, gives a "bit more sparkle" (or extension?) to the highs.

 OK, listening to "Love Theme" from Blade Runner by Vangelis, I just rotated them back to the normal position. There IS a difference, dang it! but I can't decide which is better. Awfully close with this style music...

 Hmmm... one of the best tests would be one of the old 35mm Cozart/Fine Mercury recordings - back later.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is a very personal issue but it is great to be able to vary the fit of the phones so much. The He90 on the other hand only fits my head in one way and it's not the most comfortable position... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I read people ranting about how stupid this is but too me it is pure genius. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The last point is how the space inside the ear pad is used. The front of my ears touches the inside of the pad so the earflap is directly under the driver. I feel they are the most neutral in this position.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, Mercury CD 432 011-2 Byron Janis Schumann Piano Cto No. 1, Op. 23 - listening to the Intermezzo, there's no question to me that the soundstage is more compact and better focused at 90* (seam pointing to nose). The 45* (temple) setting spreads the piano across about 20 percent more of the stage than the 90* setting, yet, the tonalities are very pleasant. This is a tough choice.

 Could it be Stax designed these (and they did come wrapped from the factory thusly) for the perpendicular line to be straight up and down parallel to a plumb line dropped by the ear, in other words, with the seam pointing straight ahead? Apparently, and I'm swagging my rear off here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, the soundfield is constructed by having the roughly semicircular front and straight wall back. When they are rotated out of this alignment, the soundfield is skewed a bit, elevated maybe, but tonalities are different, maybe improved. 

 OK, now with the seams approximately half-way between nose and temple. This seems to be a good compromise between a tight image of the piano in its own space, the overall soundfield, and the tonalities, but I'll have to listen more. Is it possible all these little tweaks of positioning have as much to do with the shape of one's ears as the design of the 'phones??
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the ideas, anyway, Spritzer! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (BTW, associated equipment Apple Lossless rip from iTunes to Airport Express optical to Electrocompaniet ECD-1, Silver Resolution balanced to SRM-007tII.)_

 

Glad to have put some ideas in your heads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is one of the reasons why it's so sad that the SR-007 is overlooked by so many people just because they are cheaper then the HE90. They are a tough nut too crack but when you do they pay dividends.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is a very personal issue but it is great to be able to vary the fit of the phones so much. The He90 on the other hand only fits my head in one way and it's not the most comfortable position... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I read people ranting about how stupid this is but too me it is pure genius. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The last point is how the space inside the ear pad is used. The front of my ears touches the inside of the pad so the earflap is directly under the driver. I feel they are the most neutral in this position._

 

I agree. The rotation of the pads has a significant effect on the sound but also the position of your ears within the pads like you say. I generally have the seams pointing at my temple and vary the position of the headphones relative to my ears depending on the music. With my ear touching the back of the pads there is a little more brightness and the headstage opens up to the front with benefits in terms of imaging. I find well recorded tracks tend to sound quite astounding in this position. With the front of my ears touching the pads they sound more neutral which yields more consistent results with a wider variety of music. I don't think my current source, amp(s) and interconnects really let my O2s show their true potential in this position although it shows enough that I can see the potential is there. Needless to say I have upgrades in mind.


----------



## jirams

terance;2774338 said:
			
		

> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to have put some ideas in your heads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is one of the reasons why it's so sad that the SR-007 is overlooked by so many people just because they are cheaper then the HE90. They are a tough nut too crack but when you do they pay dividends._

 

I've compared O2s to HE90s several times, and IMO HE90s perform far better, which justifies their higher cost. I think that buyers of HE90s, rather than O2s, do so because of this superior performance.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess after hearing several KGSS's over the years, and finally a Blue Hawaii last weekend, that the Gilmore designs are tweaked to make the bass-heavy Omega-2's sound good. You want something that is geared more toward the HE90, as the Lambda's have a FR closer to those, imo._

 

Blue Hawaii drives my HE60 pretty dang well, especially in the bass region, even with relatively cheap JJ el34.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've compared O2s to HE90s several times, and IMO HE90s perform far better, which justifies their higher cost. I think that buyers of HE90s, rather than O2s, do so because of this superior performance._

 

There is always personal choice but I doubt many of the He90 owners have spent years building a setup around the O2's because they will automatically think they are inferior. Why shouldn't they be since they cost 1/5 of the He90. I did love the He90's the first two weeks I had them but when I started a direct comparison I heard how flawed they are. This superior performance is nowhere to be found and even when I cripple the SR-007 with a bad amp they still manage to sound better with every thing I throw at them. If someone that owns both phones and has spent large amounts of time building around both of them favors the He90 I will be happy for him, but you can't gauge the SR-007 ability in a short audition. It takes months to fully learn about them. 

 My main annoyance now is the bad engineering that was put into them. The fact the when you push them towards the ear the mylar sticks to the stator screams that they didn't know what they were doing. It's almost if Sennheiser opened up the textbook and saw the minimum recommended D/S gap and said thats fine! Stax is at 60% off the recommended maximum with the Pro bias and 40% with the Normal units. Some how people have accepted it as ok that no two pairs sound the same but to me it is unacceptable. It is very hard to make electrostatic driver correctly the first time, let alone mass produce them but many companies smaller then Sennheiser have pulled this off in the past. To my ears, when it is working the Beyer ET1000 does more things right then the He90. Sure they are over 30 years old but they sound great out of a Stax amp. 

 I think this will be my last post about this issue. I'm getting a bit tired of having to explain my opinions over and over again just because there are a lot of people here that will not accept that the SR-007 may indeed be better then either the He90 or the Omega 1. If you like some impressions on this matter read the Headwize archives. There was quite lot of discussion about this very issue there and it is a great read. Its written by very knowledgeable people and they come to the same conclusions about the He90 as I did.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Blue Hawaii drives my HE60 pretty dang well, especially in the bass region, even with relatively cheap JJ el34._

 

I don't doubt you for a second. It is a great amp and if you want to do much better it will be very expensive. 

 Btw. Try the "Winged C" tubes if you don't want to spring for the NOS stuff. They are very good.


----------



## Downrange

jirams;2775591 said:
			
		

> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## facelvega

1. Does anyone know and is anyone able to characterize the difference I could expect between an SR-3 (new) and an SR-5 (non-gold)? They seem to be going dirt cheap out here, paired with SRD-5 or 6. 

 2. Ditto the last question, but between SR-5 gold and SR-X mkIII, with SRD-6 or 7, and change dirt cheap to rather cheap.

 3. finally, would it be foolish of me to take option 1 instead of option 2, if the difference was only ca. 40-50 euros? I've been kicking myself since I passed on an excellent condition SR-X/SRD-7 for 100 euros, but just can't seem to find a good pair of SR-X since then, but the 3 and 5 are cropping up like weeds.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Does anyone know and is anyone able to characterize the difference I could expect between an SR-3 (new) and an SR-5 (non-gold)? They seem to be going dirt cheap out here, paired with SRD-5 or 6._

 

Well, they're better than Stax's electrets (well, except prehaps in the bass region). Still pretty decent headphones today, if no Omega killer. No lambda-esque lower mids, either.

  Quote:


 2. Ditto the last question, but between SR-5 gold and SR-X mkIII, with SRD-6 or 7, and change dirt cheap to rather cheap. 
 

Same driver in both. Compare supra-aural with circum-aural. The SR-5N seems to have a lot of untapped modding potential, the SR-XIII just works.

  Quote:


 3. finally, would it be foolish of me to take option 1 instead of option 2, if the difference was only ca. 40-50 euros? I've been kicking myself since I passed on an excellent condition SR-X/SRD-7 for 100 euros, but just can't seem to find a good pair of SR-X since then, but the 3 and 5 are cropping up like weeds. 
 

I'd go for an Alpha/Gamma Pro instead, but I'm like that. It's a tricky matter of relative values and how much of a financial risk you want to take. You can always sell them and buy something better though. Prices are flat.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, they're better than Stax's electrets (well, except prehaps in the bass region). Still pretty decent headphones today, if no Omega killer. No lambda-esque lower mids, either.


 Same driver in both. Compare supra-aural with circum-aural. The SR-5N seems to have a lot of untapped modding potential, the SR-XIII just works.


 I'd go for an Alpha/Gamma Pro instead, but I'm like that. It's a tricky matter of relative values and how much of a financial risk you want to take. You can always sell them and buy something better though. Prices are flat._

 

1. Yes, but what then is the difference between the 3 and the 5? Are the drivers different? The housing is so similar. And where does the 3N fit in? I've been scouring the search function on this to no avail. And a 5 gold has a different diaphragm thickness from the 5, but does that also go for the 5N? 

 it's funny, I never see any alpha/gamma for sale in Germany. Maybe they weren't marketed here. There are always a few pair of the older Stax on ebay.de, and a few pair of lambas, but I've yet to see a gamma.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Yes, but what then is the difference between the 3 and the 5? Are the drivers different? The housing is so similar. And where does the 3N fit in? I've been scouring the search function on this to no avail. And a 5 gold has a different diaphragm thickness from the 5, but does that also go for the 5N?_

 

Pretty confident the 3 and 3N had different drivers. Not sure about 3N to 5. 5 to 5N definately had different drivers. The 5N/XIII/Gamma have the same driver, different housing.

  Quote:


 it's funny, I never see any alpha/gamma for sale in Germany. Maybe they weren't marketed here. There are always a few pair of the older Stax on ebay.de, and a few pair of lambas, but I've yet to see a gamma. 
 

I must have seen over fifty Gammas/Gamma Pros come up on ebay.de over the last year or two. Not rare. Alphas were Japanese market only.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pretty confident the 3 and 3N had different drivers. Not sure about 3N to 5. 5 to 5N definately had different drivers. The 5N/XIII/Gamma have the same driver, different housing.


 I must have seen over fifty Gammas/Gamma Pros come up on ebay.de over the last year or two. Not rare. Alphas were Japanese market only._

 

Aha, this is the info I was looking for, on the drivers. Many thanks. I'm surprised to hear you say this about the Gammas, though. I've been watching closely for only about two months, but I remember seeing only a couple of pairs come up in all that time. The threes and fives, on the other hand-- there are a half-dozen listed even now.


----------



## mikeg

I've asked Jack Wu to display the GES electrostat amp that he is building for me, at the upcoming National Meet. It's designed to drive HE90 and Stax headphones, and I hope that some of the meet attendees will locate and connect an HE90 headphone to it. Since I'm unable to attend this meet, and since I won't receive the amp for the first time until after the meet, I really look forward to others' comments regarding its performance.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Yes, but what then is the difference between the 3 and the 5? Are the drivers different? The housing is so similar. And where does the 3N fit in? I've been scouring the search function on this to no avail. And a 5 gold has a different diaphragm thickness from the 5, but does that also go for the 5N? 

 it's funny, I never see any alpha/gamma for sale in Germany. Maybe they weren't marketed here. There are always a few pair of the older Stax on ebay.de, and a few pair of lambas, but I've yet to see a gamma._

 

The SR-3 New used a thinner diaphragm then the SR-3 but both of these phones don't use a normal bias but the original 200v standard. The drivers are different between the 3 and 5 and the arc assembly can be altered on the 3's but it is fixed on the 5. I have both the SR-3 New and a SR-5 here in good condition and I would take the SR-5 over the older models any time. It's more extended with better timbre and harmonics. The Lambdas are much better in any way but these phones can be had for under 50€.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I have both the SR-3 New and a SR-5 here in good condition and I would take the SR-5 over the older models any time._

 

Agreed. It's worth noting, though, that the SR-3 takes us all the way back to 1969. It's a safe assumption that the driver in my Radio Shack HP-100 has an SR-3 driver in it, and though the 'phone is very pleasant and would've run roughshod over just about any other headphone from 1969 with shod left over, the diaphragms are tiny compared to modern 'stats' 'frams, so you know power handling and bass output are going to be limited. Still, I think the HP-100 sounds very warm and mellow for a 'stat. Even so, buy 'em only if cheap-- shoot for $40 or less for an SR-3 and its SRD-5 box. The HP-100 can be had for even less.


----------



## spritzer

I have the Magnavox stats that are essentially the same as the HP-100 and the drivers are similar but not the same. The same goes for the Suprex phones from the same era but they weren't made by Stax. Stax made a lot of OEM phones and some companies ripped off the design of sticking the diaphragm to a metal ring and then suspending it between two plastic edges that are integrated to the stator housing. 

 I find the Magnavox set to be truly horrible sounding and there is a good reason for it. The driver is only loosely fitted with some foam and not pressed into place with rubber grommets like on the SR-3. It's a very neat trick so Stax wouldn't hurt their own sales...


----------



## facelvega

After all the advice here, I've revised my original plan of waiting to pounce on a cheap SR-X into a plan of waiting to pounce on an SR-X or an SR-5 gold. Which at least does double the prospects, what?


----------



## cfraser

Hi. I have an SRD-7/SR-XMk.3 that I got in '78. Believe it or not, it's been powered up virtually continuously ever since, at least polarised. That's what I was told to do, hope it was good advice! Is there anything I can test for to see if there has been electrical deterioration? Everything looks fine to the casual eye, and obviously my ears aren't what they were when I was ~20, but the sound seems fine i.e. no rattling/vibration/scratchiness/etc. Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After all the advice here, I've revised my original plan of waiting to pounce on a cheap SR-X into a plan of waiting to pounce on an SR-X or an SR-5 gold. Which at least does double the prospects, what?_

 

The SR-5 Gold's are going for astronomical prices recently so I would wait for a SR-X. They might have the same driver but the housing is much better and so are the pads but it won't be cheap though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cfraser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi. I have an SRD-7/SR-XMk.3 that I got in '78. Believe it or not, it's been powered up virtually continuously ever since, at least polarised. That's what I was told to do, hope it was good advice! Is there anything I can test for to see if there has been electrical deterioration? Everything looks fine to the casual eye, and obviously my ears aren't what they were when I was ~20, but the sound seems fine i.e. no rattling/vibration/scratchiness/etc. Thanks._

 

When the phones are polarized they attract dust. Stax and other electrostatic designers use a DC+ polarizing voltage to minimize the dust buildup. 80% of all the dust in a normal home has a + charge so they are automatically repelled. The divers also have a dust cover on each side, a mylar film on the ear side and a finely woven nylon mesh on the back side that keeps most of the dust out. One of my SR-3 New sets were so filthy when I received them that the metal grills were completely covered in dust and dirt but there was no dust inside the driver so the covers work. 

 Channel imbalance is a sure sign that something has gone wrong inside the driver and so is low level hissing and low level distortion. Electrostatic driver rarely rattle or vibrate so if they do not have any of the above symptoms they should be fine.


----------



## cfraser

^ Thanks, I'll check for possible imbalance/hissing more carefully, haven't noticed any. I guess low level distortion is what I meant by "scratchiness", that's sort of how it comes across in damaged phones, like a bad LP.

 Several years ago I was thinking of getting new pads, you are right they are cheap in the SR-X, but the headset is otherwise pretty decent IMO as far as comfort and durability. What I found out is I could get custom-made (shoemaker!) thin leather pads for the same as what the originals would cost. Thing is you couldn't clean the leather as well as the vinyl. My original pads look ugly but still work fine.

 I was told long ago, so wisdom may have changed, that this old Stax model (and maybe others?) take at least a day to "settle" (into their normal sound) after being polarised. This may be BS...I've never tested the theory. So if you use them regularly best to leave polarised. What do you think of that?


----------



## spritzer

Some of the older stats can take a while to charge up but it isn't something I would worry about. It's always wise though if they have been sitting idle for a month or more to let them charge for a while before listening. 

 I have some phones here that I'm unable to get new pads for so I'm going to get a local leather shop to make me some new pads. I like the SR-X pads better when all of the vinyl has worn off though it does affect the sound a bit.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 Gold's are going for astronomical prices recently so I would wait for a SR-X. They might have the same driver but the housing is much better and so are the pads but it won't be cheap though..._

 

Do you meant the housing of the SR-X is better in the sense of more durable or of producing a better sound? And are the earpads simply more comfortable? I notice that many used SR-X have ruined earpads, while on old SR-5 they are nearly always intact. In either case, I won't bid above say 120 euros, on point of principle as I don't want to help drive up the used prices.

 I also have a quick question about the self-biasing SRD models. Is there some reason to prefer the mains-powered ones, or are the SB alright?


----------



## Snake

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is always personal choice but I doubt many of the He90 owners have spent years building a setup around the O2's because they will automatically think they are inferior. Why shouldn't they be since they cost 1/5 of the He90. I did love the He90's the first two weeks I had them but when I started a direct comparison I heard how flawed they are. This superior performance is nowhere to be found and even when I cripple the SR-007 with a bad amp they still manage to sound better with every thing I throw at them. If someone that owns both phones and has spent large amounts of time building around both of them favors the He90 I will be happy for him, but you can't gauge the SR-007 ability in a short audition. It takes months to fully learn about them. 

 My main annoyance now is the bad engineering that was put into them. The fact the when you push them towards the ear the mylar sticks to the stator screams that they didn't know what they were doing. It's almost if Sennheiser opened up the textbook and saw the minimum recommended D/S gap and said thats fine! Stax is at 60% off the recommended maximum with the Pro bias and 40% with the Normal units. Some how people have accepted it as ok that no two pairs sound the same but to me it is unacceptable. It is very hard to make electrostatic driver correctly the first time, let alone mass produce them but many companies smaller then Sennheiser have pulled this off in the past. To my ears, when it is working the Beyer ET1000 does more things right then the He90. Sure they are over 30 years old but they sound great out of a Stax amp._

 

The gist of your post is the same issue I hold regarding the difference of Lambda Pro vs. 404's. Lambdas are, at first listen, more "musical" (at is, more "forgiving") but 404's are more technically "adept". Therefore when switching from one - say, the Lambda Pro - to the 404, the 404 will seem to be the poorer performer. 

 This is not the case. The 404's are definitely more capable, but the system must be re-tailored in response to match the changes the 404's bring to the table. Once this is done, the 404's will definitely sound better and the "musicality" will return to your system.

 But they are not a 1-to-1 swap. Doing so will simply put the pair of headphones that were not initially designed as part of the system, as the 'whole', to a disadvantage.

 What Spritzer is saying is that, when both headphones are in systems individually attuned to the attributes of the headphones - which, ideally, any system should be - the SR-007 is indeed more technically adept than the HE-90, and create a better listening experience. But it's the system as a _whole_ that is the key to unlocking the potential.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you meant the housing of the SR-X is better in the sense of more durable or of producing a better sound? And are the earpads simply more comfortable? I notice that many used SR-X have ruined earpads, while on old SR-5 they are nearly always intact. In either case, I won't bid above say 120 euros, on point of principle as I don't want to help drive up the used prices.

 I also have a quick question about the self-biasing SRD models. Is there some reason to prefer the mains-powered ones, or are the SB alright?_

 

The SR-X is much better built. They were built for the pro market so they were going to have a rough live. The SR-1 and all up to the SR-5 have some serious structural flaws so don't drop them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 This translates into sound because the SR-X is very inert to resonances but when you remove the internal padding the housing is turned into a tunnel that causes the midrange to sound "boxed in". 

 I don't like the SR-3/5 pads since I can't get them to fit right. I tried SR-007 pads on the SR-X but it altered the sound to much. The stock Sr-X pads give me the best results but I like them more without the vinyl. 

 The SB draw the bias of the transformer secondaries so it is in the signal path but they still sound great. My speaker setup isn't high end enough to detect any huge difference. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snake* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The gist of your post is the same issue I hold regarding the difference of Lambda Pro vs. 404's. Lambdas are, at first listen, more "musical" (at is, more "forgiving") but 404's are more technically "adept". Therefore when switching from one - say, the Lambda Pro - to the 404, the 404 will seem to be the poorer performer. 

 This is not the case. The 404's are definitely more capable, but the system must be re-tailored in response to match the changes the 404's bring to the table. Once this is done, the 404's will definitely sound better and the "musicality" will return to your system.

 But they are not a 1-to-1 swap. Doing so will simply put the pair of headphones that were not initially designed as part of the system, as the 'whole', to a disadvantage.

 What Spritzer is saying is that, when both headphones are in systems individually attuned to the attributes of the headphones - which, ideally, any system should be - the SR-007 is indeed more technically adept than the HE-90, and create a better listening experience. But it's the system as a whole that is the key to unlocking the potential._

 

Yes that is the main point. I like the clearer sound of the Signature line of Lambdas but the older models aren't bad at all. They are slightly colored to to the wool inside the cups and some may like that more. What bothers me most is that they can be slightly bright at times but thats easy to compensate for.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X is much better built. They were built for the pro market so they were going to have a rough life. The SR-1 and all up to the SR-5 have some serious structural flaws so don't drop them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This translates into sound because the SR-X is very inert to resonances but when you remove the internal padding the housing is turned into a tunnel that causes the midrange to sound "boxed in". 

 I don't like the SR-3/5 pads since I can't get them to fit right. I tried SR-007 pads on the SR-X but it altered the sound too much. The stock Sr-X pads give me the best results but I like them more without the vinyl._

 

Fascinating stuff, spritzer, well done: this has saved me a lot of messing around with my SR-Xs! I'd been on the verge of getting some new pads, as friends of mine keep asking what are the little black bits in my ears, but I'll just wait until all the vinyl drops off (and that's $30/€20/£15 saved!).

 I've soldered my SR-Xs now, and thanks also for the tip about flux/solder drips/spits: a piece of cardboard cut to size made the operation much safer, and there is a definite benefit on the sound as a result. I'd contemplated taking out the wadding, as you suggested, but left it in, prefering to do one change at a time.

 Also I'd been curious about the SR-5s (especially the Golds) but SWMBO will go (even) mad(der) if I buy some just out of curiosity... still, I'd love to hear them, and would maybe prefer the lack of direct on-ear pressure that the SR-Xs give after a while...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SB draw the bias of the transformer secondaries so it is in the signal path but they still sound great. My speaker setup isn't high end enough to detect any huge difference._

 

I think it was on the previous thread where I related how shocked I was that a mains bias SRD-7 did NOT sound better than an SRD-6 self-bias: I had expected noticably better performance from the mains bias, and the SRD-7 has thicker leads and is bigger/heavier... if anything, the SRD-6 had the edge!

 I'm still waiting to read other people's point of view on this...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X is much better built. They were built for the pro market so they were going to have a rough live. The SR-1 and all up to the SR-5 have some serious structural flaws so don't drop them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This translates into sound because the SR-X is very inert to resonances but when you remove the internal padding the housing is turned into a tunnel that causes the midrange to sound "boxed in". 
_

 

Has anyone heard the SRXIII pro? These are even more scarce on the market than Sigma Pro's? In fact I have never seen one for sale. I recall that Kevin Gilmore stated on Headwize that he had 2 pair and that they were not for sale.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes that is the main point. I like the clearer sound of the Signature line of Lambdas but the older models aren't bad at all. They are slightly colored to to the wool inside the cups and some may like that more. What bothers me most is that they can be slightly bright at times but thats easy to compensate for._

 

I just received my SR-202's from Audio Cubes II. Now I will be able to do a comparison of the 404 (my old 4040 system that I sold), 202, low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro. I will be using a SRM-1mkII and SRM-006t. In previous listening tests the Lambda Pro came in First, the low bias Lambda came in a close second and the 404 in Third place. I listen to mostly Classical and Jazz on Vinyl. I wanted a second Lambda Pro but the used prices are too high so I am trying the 202's. It's interesting that used Lambda Pro's are going for more than the 404's (from Japan direct) new!

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the SRXIII pro? These are even more scarce on the market than Sigma Pro's? In fact I have never seen one for sale. I recall that Kevin Gilmore stated on Headwize that he had 2 pair and that they were not for sale._

 

I'm still looking. I've seen them come up two or three times, but haven't won one yet. I'm thinking the Alphas (same drivers) would be more to my taste, though.

 Sigma Pros are rare, but they're not _that_ rare.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fascinating stuff, spritzer, well done: this has saved me a lot of messing around with my SR-Xs! I'd been on the verge of getting some new pads, as friends of mine keep asking what are the little black bits in my ears, but I'll just wait until all the vinyl drops off (and that's $30/€20/£15 saved!).

 I've soldered my SR-Xs now, and thanks also for the tip about flux/solder drips/spits: a piece of cardboard cut to size made the operation much safer, and there is a definite benefit on the sound as a result. I'd contemplated taking out the wadding, as you suggested, but left it in, prefering to do one change at a time.

 Also I'd been curious about the SR-5s (especially the Golds) but SWMBO will go (even) mad(der) if I buy some just out of curiosity... still, I'd love to hear them, and would maybe prefer the lack of direct on-ear pressure that the SR-Xs give after a while...



 I think it was on the previous thread where I related how shocked I was that a mains bias SRD-7 did NOT sound better than an SRD-6 self-bias: I had expected noticably better performance from the mains bias, and the SRD-7 has thicker leads and is bigger/heavier... if anything, the SRD-6 had the edge!

 I'm still waiting to read other people's point of view on this..._

 

Just rip the rest of the vinyl off, thats what I did. The only vinyl pads that I have ever liked are on the ET1000, they are oh so soft but they still stick to the head after 5 minutes. 

 I didn't solder them on for the simple reason I had some extra plugs that fitted so I could easily swap cables. Thank you Magnavox for all of the extra connectors!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-3/5 are great for some mellow listening when the SR-X is more monitor like. You can pickup a SR-5 for cheap if you are lucky. 

 The SRD-6 uses the same transformers and its bigger brother so the difference shouldn't be that big in stock form. The stock transformers are far from being transparent so it would possibly be a bigger difference in a modded unit. It doesn't matter where the bias comes from because it isn't a constant supply, only an incremental one. The phones can play for nearly 30 minutes without a bias supply and the differences you are noticing are because one supply has a higher voltage then the other. I've compared my SRD-7 SB and Mk2's and there isn't a big difference but my speaker amp is far from being ideal. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the SRXIII pro? These are even more scarce on the market than Sigma Pro's? In fact I have never seen one for sale. I recall that Kevin Gilmore stated on Headwize that he had 2 pair and that they were not for sale._

 

I haven't but I have seen a few of them for sale over the years. I'm going to buy one eventually but they are pretty far down on my list. 

 I think Kevin should do another electrostatic comparison like he did on Headwize back in the day. I'll be doing one some day but I think I need some more cans and to figure out the ESP9's.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my SR-202's from Audio Cubes II. Now I will be able to do a comparison of the 404 (my old 4040 system that I sold), 202, low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro. I will be using a SRM-1mkII and SRM-006t. In previous listening tests the Lambda Pro came in First, the low bias Lambda came in a close second and the 404 in Third place. I listen to mostly Classical and Jazz on Vinyl. I wanted a second Lambda Pro but the used prices are too high so I am trying the 202's. It's interesting that used Lambda Pro's are going for more than the 404's (from Japan direct) new!

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Keep us posted. I like the Lambda Pro's but I like the Signature more. They get no respect though like the original SR-Lambda. 

 People are willing to pay crazy money for all things marked Stax but you can still get some great deals.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think Kevin should do another electrostatic comparison like he did on Headwize back in the day. I'll be doing one some day but I think I need some more cans and to figure out the ESP9's._

 

Have you got a link for this? I've read a number of Headwize threads, but I can't say I've ever read that one.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Keep us posted. I like the Lambda Pro's but I like the Signature more. They get no respect though like the original SR-Lambda. _

 

I'm beginning to come to the same conclusion. I've had the Lambda Pro and Signatures head to head for a few months now and while I still like the extented highs of the Pro, the slightly mellower presentation and strong bass of the Signature (relative to the Pro) is winning me over.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the SRXIII pro?_

 

Not many, if anyone, around here have ever listened to one.
 I am looking out for a pair as well. So if/when the next pair show up for sale I am afraid there will be a serious bidding war... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my SR-202's from Audio Cubes II. Now I will be able to do a comparison of the 404 (my old 4040 system that I sold), 202, low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro. I will be using a SRM-1mkII and SRM-006t._

 

Great! Make sure you keep us posted.
  Quote:


 I wanted a second Lambda Pro but the used prices are too high so I am trying the 202's. It's interesting that used Lambda Pro's are going for more than the 404's (from Japan direct) new! 
 

I have also noticed that their going rate have gone up. They seem to go for ~$350 these days.
 We should be pleased that we already own a pair.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my SR-202's from Audio Cubes II. Now I will be able to do a comparison of the 404 (my old 4040 system that I sold), 202, low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro. AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Congrats on the new acquisition! I would be most interested to hear your impressions of the 202s vs. the 404s, any differences, etc. I expect there won't be much, but you never know.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you got a link for this? I've read a number of Headwize threads, but I can't say I've ever read that one._

 

I did a thorough search for it just now but I can't find it.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the new acquisition! I would be most interested to hear your impressions of the 202s vs. the 404s, any differences, etc. I expect there won't be much, but you never know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Downrange,
 I read somewhere that the elements in the 404 and 303 are the same, but the 202 is different (maybe a thicker diaphragm). I've only listened to the 202’s for a few hours. They don't appear to have the upper midrange glare of the 404's but I do not have the 404's on hand for direct comparison. Some of the glare I think came from the SRM-006t when I owned a 4040 system. I clearly like the SRM-1mkII over the 006t. By the way, how do you like your SR-001’s?

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did a thorough search for it just now but I can't find it._

 

I went looking for it too, and also no luck. Damn you, Google.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Headamp will be releasing a limited two-box BH but at an estimated price of slightly more than $3000 it will be above my budget._

 

I got really interested in this two-box Blue Hawaii, and emailed Justin (HeadAmp) for some information.

 After reading his answers I have decided to put an order on hold, at least until I have seen some initial picture. Cause it sounds like it will not have such a beautiful designed and exclusive looking chassis' as the Aristaeus.

 Where are Ray Samuels when we (I) need him?!


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_It's interesting that used Lambda Pro's are going for more than the 404's (from Japan direct) new!_

 

Wow, really? What are they going for? Do you mean just the headsets without amp/energizer?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, really? What are they going for? Do you mean just the headsets without amp/energizer?_

 

A few weeks ago there was a guy on Audiogon asking $600 for Lambda Pro's (phones only). I think they sold (for what price I don't know).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got really interested in this two-box Blue Hawaii, and emailed Justin (HeadAmp) for some information.

 After reading his answers I have decided to put an order on hold, at least until I have seen some initial picture. Cause it sounds like it will not have such a beautiful designed and exclusive looking chassis' as the Aristaeus.

 Where are Ray Samuels when we (I) need him?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Being Justin, he'd probably make you a custom case for it if you were willing to pay for it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Being Justin, he'd probably make you a custom case for it if you were willing to pay for it._

 

Sure, everything is possible.
 But it would be damn expensive to design and build just one (1) set of chassis', with laser engraving, volume knobs, etc. Sharing the cost on those 10 amplifiers would be a different matter though.

 I just expected the Blue Hawaii Special Edition to follow close to the design path Justin laid out with the Aristaeus. That said, I am sure it will be a nice looking (and beautiful sounding) amplifier.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_A few weeks ago there was a guy on Audiogon asking $600 for Lambda Pro's (phones only). I think they sold (for what price I don't know)._

 

Holy crow! But that's Audiogon. They'll ask $200 for preamp jumpers over there and not even blink.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Holy crow! But that's Audiogon. They'll ask $200 for preamp jumpers over there and not even blink._

 

Someone should try and sell actual snake oil (you know, the stuff from snakes) on there and see the reaction.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Downrange,
 I read somewhere that the elements in the 404 and 303 are the same, but the 202 is different (maybe a thicker diaphragm). I've only listened to the 202’s for a few hours. They don't appear to have the upper midrange glare of the 404's but I do not have the 404's on hand for direct comparison. Some of the glare I think came from the SRM-006t when I owned a 4040 system. I clearly like the SRM-1mkII over the 006t. By the way, how do you like your SR-001’s?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Interesting... I'd read or heard somewhere that the diaphragms were the same, only real difference is supposed to be the cable capacitance, but I'm not sure about that. The SR-001s are a nice little system; I don't see them as competing with Lambda (2020), but they do some things better (vocals, less upper midrange peak). Good for travel!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting... I'd read or heard somewhere that the diaphragms were the same, only real difference is supposed to be the cable capacitance, but I'm not sure about that._

 

The 404 and 303 (and 4070 for that matter) all have the red diaphragms. The 202 has a charcoal coloured one and what appears to be different puncturing on the stators.


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone should try and sell actual snake oil (you know, the stuff from snakes) on there and see the reaction._


----------



## cfraser

Thanks for the responses to my posts earlier today!

 I checked my SR-X and the pads don't look as ugly as I inferred, it's mainly that they're kinda squished in from use, I guess I could fix that with a backing layer of foam to compensate. I'm wondering if the pads sold by Audiocube are real Stax pads, or some aftermarket ones made to fit. Guess it doesn't matter much. Just that when I last spoke to H. Mori****a maybe 5? years ago the Stax ones were $40...I'm always wary when something seems to be bargain-priced! At the time that's why I passed when I could get leather ones (copied from originals) for the same $$, but $20 seems not too bad especially if they're Stax.

 Are there any good mods for the SRD-7/SR-X that aren't too difficult that significantly *improve* them? It's a bit fuzzy what I have done over the years, but I sure don't use the built-in speaker/phones switch and terminals (it is always set to Earspeaker/On). For one thing the input cable was cheesy and too short, so I replaced with much thicker wire and bypassed the switch. Use an external Shallco monster switch that's right at the amp output terminals...not sure if it's sonically better, but sure looks a lot better electrically, and with half-decent GP binding posts etc. that suit modern speaker cables better. I replaced the caps etc. in the SRD-7, minor wiring upgrades, kept all the original bits JIC. I did not think quality components in the bias supply would affect the sound much, but who knows, I just did little things since I had it open and the iron was hot.

 One thing I remember is the level I used to listen to the Stax at would clip my 125wpc amp...not so the 350wpc amp they're on now. I have never got a good answer as to why these little phones would do that. I figure this is the place... I mean the Stax amps are fairly low power in comparison, at least the tube ones and they must work OK. Of course tube amps distort differently and more pleasantly. Wish I could hook the Stax up to my SET amps (3W I think)...that would probably sound sweet if it worked but I'm kinda afraid to try it based on my SS amp experience. Thanks for any insights.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cfraser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm wondering if the pads sold by Audiocube are real Stax pads, or some aftermarket ones made to fit. Guess it doesn't matter much. Just that when I last spoke to H. Mori****a maybe 5? years ago the Stax ones were $40...I'm always wary when something seems to be bargain-priced! At the time that's why I passed when I could get leather ones (copied from originals) for the same $$, but $20 seems not too bad especially if they're Stax._

 

They are, but considering the SR-X first went into production in 1970 I imagine the formula has been changed over the years.

  Quote:


 One thing I remember is the level I used to listen to the Stax at would clip my 125wpc amp...not so the 350wpc amp they're on now. 
 

Dear lord, man, and you can sill hear!?! I use a 100Wpc amp, and can bearly get the volume dial up to 9 o'clock.

  Quote:


 Wish I could hook the Stax up to my SET amps (3W I think) 
 

Try it and see. It'll be quiet, but might still be listenable.


----------



## cfraser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear lord, man, and you can sill hear!?! I use a 100Wpc amp, and can bearly get the volume dial up to 9 o'clock._

 

I liked it loud, why I got the phones since my living accomodations were volume-limited. I suspect it may be because that particular amp did not drive whatever load the SRD-7 presented very well (??). Still have that amp, but it's retired. And really, it wasn't THAT loud with the phones, it drove speakers (not particularly efficient ones as they typically were in the late '70's) very loud. That's why I've always wondered about it. I am sufficiently old and lazy that I use a remote even when headphone listening now, so I'm not sure what o'clock I listen to the Stax at, but it's surely well past noon...depends on your preamp etc.

 The version of SR-X I have came out in '75, they have what I'd call quite thin foam in them, just the bare minimum of padding really, barely enough to slightly alleviate the fairly strong pressure of the headband spring.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cfraser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I liked it loud, why I got the phones since my living accomodations were volume-limited. I suspect it may be because that particular amp did not drive whatever load the SRD-7 presented very well (??). Still have that amp, but it's retired. And really, it wasn't THAT loud with the phones, it drove speakers (not particularly efficient ones as they typically were in the late '70's) very loud. That's why I've always wondered about it._

 

Maybe your SRD-7 has a fault?


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't doubt you for a second. It is a great amp and if you want to do much better it will be very expensive. 

 Btw. Try the "Winged C" tubes if you don't want to spring for the NOS stuff. They are very good._

 

I do indeed already have a quad, just waiting to put 'em in and bias 'em... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But, gotta figure out the EA-6 thing first - listening to it now...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But, gotta figure out the EA-6 thing first - listening to it now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Working right this time?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_Maybe your SRD-7 has a fault?_

 

As Marvin might say if he were an audio refugee from the '70s: "You're failing to take into account something fairly basic in the relationship between the twitchy protection circuitry and ofttimes creaky closed-loop stability of the typical '70s BJT amp and the idiosyncratically dangerous load presented to its entrails by the SRD-7". 

 I'm not at all surprised that his amp clipped back then. Presumably it had a way of letting him know this was happening.


----------



## cfraser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe your SRD-7 has a fault?_

 

I doubt it, as I was talking about what I can remember from the late '70's, and the SRD-7 is still working fine with the current gear. I just checked the SRD-7 "manual" and Stax recommended 10W+ amps. The amp's clipping indicators are set off by voltage, and though it may have been delivering high voltage, current was quite low so power output was really nominal. From that, if true, I can see how a tube amp could be a more suitable driver, strictly from a voltage output standpoint.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As Marvin might say if he were an audio refugee from the '70s: "You're failing to take into account something fairly basic in the relationship between the twitchy protection circuitry and ofttimes creaky closed-loop stability of the typical '70s BJT amp and the idiosyncratically dangerous load presented to its entrails by the SRD-7". 

 I'm not at all surprised that his amp clipped back then. Presumably it had a way of letting him know this was happening._

 

Strange then that 70s MOSFETs wouldn't present this same issue.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404 and 303 (and 4070 for that matter) all have the red diaphragms. The 202 has a charcoal coloured one and what appears to be different puncturing on the stators.









_

 

Thanks for that info, Carl! I've been wondering if there's much difference between my 202s and 404s, and also a/b'ing them with the O2s, with interesting results. Now my curiousity is peaked, and I will need to borrow (or buy real cheaply) a set of 404s to see for myself. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess AudioCubes has the best price, lol! ?? I knew this place was trouble the moment I found it!


----------



## Jahn

I just fired up the Lambda Pros/SRM-1 MKII combo (i switch from dynamic Grados to these babies to keep both fresh) and let me tell you - you should reconstruct the following Fingerstyle playlist ASAP - your STAX and ears will thank you! Amazing!


----------



## MaloS

Hm, to also take things a bit off the latest topic here.

 Stuck Sennheiser hd590 pads onto Stax sr-80 - and can feel AND hear benefits. Obviously the feel part is the comfort - but the audible part - due to increased space between ears and the drivers the soundstage became larger, giving more space to the instruments without suffering any muffling or anything. I think thats right on the money, wonder how sr-404 would be if it had more circum-aural padding. (anyone dare trying hd650 pads with sr-404?)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404 and 303 (and 4070 for that matter) all have the red diaphragms. The 202 has a charcoal coloured one and what appears to be different puncturing on the stators.









_

 

I assume the picture is of the 202. The 404 has a wire mesh stator. The one in the picture looks like perforated dark metal. Prior posts have established that Stax went over to wire mesh with the Lambda Nova. My earlier Sigmas used perforated copper.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few weeks ago there was a guy on Audiogon asking $600 for Lambda Pro's (phones only). I think they sold (for what price I don't know)._

 

Thats insane! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have seen the Lambda Signature sell for $400, and the Lambda Pro for almost the same. But $600 are way TOO much.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404 and 303 (and 4070 for that matter) all have the red diaphragms. The 202 has a charcoal coloured one and what appears to be different puncturing on the stators.









_

 

Thanks a lot for the information.
 Probably mean that the 404 get the best matched diaphragms, while the 303 get the next best ones. The 202 use different (cheaper?) ones...

 Guess its once again time to visit my local Stax dealer, to perform a 202, 303, 404, Lambda Pro and O2 comparison. My listening experience have adapted since last time I visited them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cfraser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing I remember is the level I used to listen to the Stax at would clip my 125wpc amp...not so the 350wpc amp they're on now._

 

Oh my! Are you listening at insane volume levels?
 I have used my Stax 'phones with 70 and 200 watts amplifiers, through an SRD-7/mk2, and they play louder than I can take. Did not notice any clipping.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been wondering if there's much difference between my 202s and 404s, and also a/b'ing them with the O2s, with interesting results. !_

 

Very interesting indeed! But I won't spoil your surprise by giving away the punchline...

 Andre Jute
 The trouble with most people is not what they don't know, but what they know for certain that isn't true. ---Mark Twain


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do indeed already have a quad, just waiting to put 'em in and bias 'em... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But, gotta figure out the EA-6 thing first - listening to it now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cool, they are the only new production tubes worth anything. If you want to go into NOS territory go straight to the Mullard XF2's, sure they are expensive but a good set will last for a decade in the BH and there is nothing that sounds better.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, they are the only new production tubes worth anything. If you want to go into NOS territory go straight to the Mullard XF2's, sure they are expensive but a good set will last for a decade in the BH and there is nothing that sounds better._

 

Well, unless you modify the BH to use a different tube entirely.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, unless you modify the BH to use a different tube entirely._

 

Right you are. I wonder if there are any drop in replacements or any that can be used with adapters. I know about KT77 and maybe the 6550 but there must be some other tubes that will work in the BH


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_Strange then that 70s MOSFETs wouldn't present this same issue._

 

Two reasons: One, there were very few '70s MOSFETs (the amps arrived in the US in '79), and two, MOSFETS are frickin' invincible. They're much more bovine in their reaction to crazy loads with twirly impedance angles.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right you are. I wonder if there are any drop in replacements or any that can be used with adapters. I know about KT77 and maybe the 6550 but there must be some other tubes that will work in the BH_

 

6CK4s might be interesting, if your dropped the voltage down a bit.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assume the picture is of the 202. The 404 has a wire mesh stator. The one in the picture looks like perforated dark metal. Prior posts have established that Stax went over to wire mesh with the Lambda Nova. My earlier Sigmas used perforated copper._

 

The 202 303 and 404 all use the wire mesh strator, if you look carefully you can see it behind the plate holes in the 404 picture. The difference in the porosity of the drilled plates which are visible affects the sound though. And if you note the different drilling on the 404 plate, the holes are larger and tighter together. Apart from any difference in sound this would cause, its also more difficult to machine that way, adding to costs. So even if the 202 and the 404 used the same driver. Which they do not, there would be a difference in sound even because of that.

 Can anyone confirm if the 404 and 303 drivers are identical down to the plate drillings? That would mean that the cable would be the only big difference I think.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very interesting indeed! But I won't spoil your surprise by giving away the punchline...

 Andre Jute_

 


 Thanks, Andre. I think I know about 80 per cent of the answer already. The 202s are a great headset, and the best bargain going - they handily beat the SRM-001mkII out of the humble SRM-212, and are even better from the tube amp. I just really am curious to hear the 404s, as I've not been able to for five years or so.

 My initial read on the Lambdas (new models) is that they are great, but a little too forward to be considered "accurate." It will be interesting to see if the 404s are less forward than the 202s.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone confirm if the 404 and 303 drivers are identical down to the plate drillings? That would mean that the cable would be the only big difference I think._

 

Stax colour-coded them for that reason. Not to say the 404s didn't get the more closely-matched drivers mind you.


 While I'm at it;

 Lambda





 Lambda Pro





 Nova Sig/Classic





 I couldn't track down any really good photos of the Lambda Sig/Sigma Pro drivers. They're dark grey, though.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do indeed already have a quad, just waiting to put 'em in and bias 'em... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But, *gotta figure out the EA-6 thing first - listening to it now... *



_

 

Please update us regarding the EA-6. Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But, gotta figure out the EA-6 thing first - listening to it now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Keep us posted about your listening experience with the EA-6.
 I would like to know how it compares to other amplifiers in its price range.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right you are. I wonder if there are any drop in replacements or any that can be used with adapters. I know about KT77 and maybe the 6550 but there must be some other tubes that will work in the BH_

 

Kevin was iffy about the KT77 (not sure why), but most likely HE never bothers with anythiong other than Mullard xf2... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, regarding the EA-6, it is still not perfect, and has some REALLY rough spots (Tool, 10k Days, has parts that breal up really bad in saturated guitar), and yet, Hoobastank, Alison Krauss and Janes Addiction are all superb, with glorious microdetail that eludes the BH... I am simply baffled, and no 'It's broken' excuse this time. He also went to 17GW6 instead of 6BQ6, so it definitely has way more gain... more results to come. And, once I gat Alex to wake up and help me figure this out...


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few weeks ago there was a guy on Audiogon asking $600 for Lambda Pro's (phones only). I think they sold (for what price I don't know)._

 

People are becoming aware of the vintage Stax headphones. This thread has contributed to that. Vintage phones are a finite resource. If demand is increased, and supply is constant (or diminishing), then price is going to go up. I don't think that $600 is insane for a Lambda Pro. I do think that $500-$600, possibly more, will become the price for a good condition pair, at least while they have FOTM status. At some point, something else may be FOTM, and pricing will go back down.


----------



## derekbmn

In my opinion the Lambda Pro is worth every penny of $500 or so. I can't think of any other can in that price range I would rather have and/or could out perform it. (IMO)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He also went to 17GW6 instead of 6BQ6, so it definitely has way more gain... more results to come. And, once I gat Alex to wake up and help me figure this out..._

 

Now that's a combo I never would have expected, two power pentodes. I'd love to pick Peter's brain about his choice on that one. The GW6 has some nice curves, though.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_People are becoming aware of the vintage Stax headphones. This thread has contributed to that. Vintage phones are a finite resource. If demand is increased, and supply is constant (or diminishing), then price is going to go up. I don't think that $600 is insane for a Lambda Pro. I do think that $500-$600, possibly more, will become the price for a good condition pair, at least while they have FOTM status. At some point, something else may be FOTM, and pricing will go back down._

 

Lambda Pro FOTM has been and gone. I really can't see many of the regulars of this thread forking out that much for a pair when there are other perfectly viable options.

 Most of those big price sales come from the uninformed. Those unaware of the happenings in Stax land who had a Lambda Pro or whatever in the early 80s, the sort of people who pay $250 for a SR30.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6CK4s might be interesting, if your dropped the voltage down a bit._

 

Interesting. We really need another all tube electrostatic amp thats built like the Japanese do it. A Kondo electrostatic amp would be very cool

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kevin was iffy about the KT77 (not sure why), but most likely HE never bothers with anythiong other than Mullard xf2... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well he might try some XF1's but what else is there?


----------



## mikeg

Duplicated, sorry.


----------



## mikeg

I'm eager to get my Woo GES, and to compare it with an HEV90, an ES-1, an Aristaeus, an EA-6, and my EA-4, for driving an HE90. Wouldn't it be amazing if the GES and EA-6 actually do as well as the ES-1, HEV90, and Aristaeus? Little chance of that, but hope springs eternal.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm eager to get my Woo GES, and to compare it with an HEV90, an ES-1, an Aristaeus, an EA-6, and my EA-4, for driving an HE90. Wouldn't it be amazing if the GES and EA-6 actually do as well as the ES-1, HEV90, and Aristaeus? Little chance of that, but hope springs eternal._

 

No harm in hoping and keeping your fingers crossed. I'll be interested to hear what you think of it, as well as any comparisons you make.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my opinion the Lambda Pro is worth every penny of $500 or so. I can't think of any other can in that price range I would rather have and/or could out perform it. (IMO)_

 

I agree, but only in mint-mint condition. The problem is when buying on eBay or Audiogon you may get stuck with junk. Been there-Done that.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. We really need another all tube electrostatic amp thats built like the Japanese do it. A Kondo electrostatic amp would be very cool_

 

Bypass the output transformer of a Gakuoh and you're pretty much there.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm eager to get my Woo GES, and to compare it with an HEV90, an ES-1, an Aristaeus, an EA-6, and my EA-4, for driving an HE90. Wouldn't it be amazing if the GES and EA-6 actually do as well as the ES-1, HEV90, and Aristaeus? Little chance of that, but hope springs eternal._

 

From what I've been able to extrapolate, the ES1 and Aristaeus' big advantage lies primarily in parts quality rather than topology. I imagine Peter and Wei would be willing to use silver wire, boutique power transformers, etc if you were willing to pay for them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bypass the output transformer of a Gakuoh and you're pretty much there.

 From what I've been able to extrapolate, the ES1 and Aristaeus' big advantage lies primarily in parts quality rather than topology. I imagine Peter and Wei would be willing to use silver wire, boutique power transformers, etc if you were willing to pay for them._

 

The Gakuoh should be a lot cheaper without the output trafo. Those custom made Tango's with silver secondaries aren't cheap. I wonder why none of the American amp makers use R-core transformers instead of the inferior torroids. This isn't about price at this point. 

 Both of the lower class amps could be giant killers if they were upgraded with some sense. Better coupling caps, wiring and rca jacks would go a long way.


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I've been able to extrapolate, the ES1 and Aristaeus' big advantage lies primarily in parts quality rather than topology._

 

Both designers (Mikhail and Justin) use high quality parts, but I've talked to both of them about their designs, and topology does play a large role in the sound of their amps. Extrapolations such as yours, based on no first hand knowledge or experience with the products, are simply not worth posting. Generally speaking, blind, and in this case untrue, speculation does little to advance knowledge, and could mislead a reader who thought that you knew something about the products.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both designers (Mikhail and Justin) use high quality parts, but I've talked to both of them about their designs, and topology does play a large role in the sound of their amps. Extrapolations such as yours, based on no first hand knowledge or experience with the products, are simply not worth posting. Generally speaking, blind, and in this case untrue, speculation does little to advance knowledge, and could mislead a reader who thought that you knew something about the products._

 

Yes but Peter's amps have nice (if straightforward) topologies too.

 I may not be able to trace their circuit schematics in my sleep, but I do have a reasonable uderstanding about what makes these amps tick.


----------



## pabbi1

I would offer that MY parts selection (as evidenced by my DIY - Millet, m³ x2, Blue Hawaii) would be quite a bit pricier than what Peter has chosen (stepped attenuator vs Blue Velvet for volume, as one example), but it is a cost / performance tradeoff. I even followed a Hirsch suggestion for the 6cg7, but something is still, well, just not quite right.

 Am trying _REAL HARD_ (my best Samuel Jackson) to like the EA-6... but, I'm struggling. It simply cannot handle Tool (10,000 Days nor Lateralus)...


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would offer that MY parts selection (as evidenced by my DIY - Millet, m³ x2, Blue Hawaii) would be quite a bit pricier than what Peter has chosen (stepped attenuator vs Blue Velvet for volume, as one example), but it is a cost / performance tradeoff. I even followed a Hirsch suggestion for the 6cg7, but something is still, well, just not quite right.

 Am trying _REAL HARD_ (my best Samuel Jackson) to like the EA-6... but, I'm struggling. *It simply cannot handle Tool (10,000 Days nor Lateralus*)..._

 

Has Peter sampled this music on an EA-6 in his shop, and encountered the same problem? Have you tried this music on one of Peter's lower cost stat amps (e.g., his EA-1)? What's peter's suggestion for resolving this problem? Has he offered any ideas? BTW, I've just sampled 10,000 days, and Lateralus, and they are very different from the kinds of music that I usually listen to (i.e., classical orchestral music). Since you mentioned that the EA-6 seems to have better resolution that the BH, how well do you think that it performs in comparison with an HEV90, an ES-1, and an Aristaeus, for such music? Also, why did you select the likes of 10,000 days, and Lateralus, for evaluating the EA-6's performance?


----------



## ast

hello STAX owners, I soon will be joining you all with my first STAX
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 in fact my first Electrostat ever.

 I have an extremely "newbie" question: seems like the phone connector is like XLR or they are some special STAX format? I know they will work fine with STAX Amps, but what about all other amps. Is there some kind of adaptor I will need to plug into other amps?

 is SR-007 very 'power hungry'? Will Lehmann Black Cube type of amp drive them ok? ... the STAX's Website is very poorly designed, I can't find any useful info there!


 sigh, another 3 weeks of anxious waiting ....


----------



## Duggeh

Stax use a different connector because the way that Stax headphones actually make sound is fundamentally different to most headphones. Trying to use them with the black cube would be like trying to plug a hoover into an AA battery. In theory theres a power source, its just not compatible.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has Peter sampled this music on an EA-6 in his shop, and encountered the same problem? Have you tried this music on one of Peter's lower cost stat amps (e.g., his EA-1)? What's peter's suggestion for resolving this problem? Has he offered any ideas? BTW, I've just sampled 10,000 days, and Lateralus, and they are very different from the kinds of music that I usually listen to (i.e., classical orchestral music). Since you mentioned that the EA-6 seems to have better resolution that the BH, how well do you think that it performs in comparison with an HEV90, an ES-1, and an Aristaeus, for such music? Also, why did you select the likes of 10,000 days, and Lateralus, for evaluating the EA-6's performance?_

 


 I have spent probably 10 hours on the phone with Peter over time discussing this design, MY TASTES, including gain requirements (MUST shake the pads off the phones), and explained in excruciating detail what I listen to. He understands this to a very intimate degree, and in excruciating detail. I have absolutely no idea as to how he tested, and to what degree, but this is REAL obvious, and will enlist some other indepentent observers to verify.

 Tool is what I listen to almost daily, one or the other, along with a variety of other stuff (Jett - 'Shine On' and 'Get Born', B-52s, DEVO, The Who, etc), but I have to agree that this amp simply seems 'voiced' to classical, and just cannot handle compressed, distorted signal. This is not just an occasional observation - it makes the music almost unlistenable, and certainly less fun, almost stressful, thinking what this amp COULD be. The hints do not outweigh the obvious warts

 Being that I am the PAYING customer, I can evaluate this amp with whatever I damn well please.

 Previously, the amp would distort horribly at anything in the elactronic guitar band, chords or single notes... maybe a specific manufacturing defect (caused by the shipper), but now I'm getting some fuzzy static in a different range(s), but typically when there seems to be saturation. 

 No A/B testing against the BH just yet, mainly because I am running VERY familiar material through the EA-6, with _some_ excellent results. Jane's Addiction - "SuperHero' is, in fact, simply stunning. Alison Krauss 'New Favorite' is also stunning, especially the vocals, acoustic guitar and dobro... 

 Alex ( [ak]zip ) and I will meet (with others) to compare it against his ES-1 (that I have spent many an hour listening to) and 007t, as well as my Blue Hawaii, with the HE60 (x3), his OII (x2), his OI (x2) and perhaps the Koss 950. 

 Current bottom line: NOWHERE close to the Orpheus (that I have also spent a few hours listening to - HE90 and HEV90), but all other comparisons will wait until there are at least 3 others to INDEPENDENTLY write their impressions in a shootout thread - in the meantime, it's my duty to run through MY preferred playlists to determine if I can keep this amp (instead of the BH), ask Peter for a refund, or sell it to someone who ONLY listens to Classical / acoustic music. Having already worked (and reworked) this amp, the topology just looks to be a REALLY bad fit for me.

 There - taking one for the team, but, I simply can't afford the time to continue working this design - 9 months is my limit.


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax use a different connector because the way that Stax headphones actually make sound is fundamentally different to most headphones. Trying to use them with the black cube would be like trying to plug a hoover into an AA battery. In theory theres a power source, its just not compatible._

 

so then I will have to use STAX's own amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ? can these amps be used for other cans as well ?


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have spent probably 10 hours on the phone with Peter over time discussing this design, MY TASTES, including gain requirements (MUST shake the pads off the phones), and explained in excruciating detail what I listen to. He understands this to a very intimate degree, and in excruciating detail. I have absolutely no idea as to how he tested, and to what degree, but this is REAL obvious, and will enlist some other indepentent observers to verify.

 Tool is what I listen to almost daily, one or the other, along with a variety of other stuff (Jett - 'Shine On' and 'Get Born', B-52s, DEVO, The Who, etc), but I have to agree that this amp simply seems 'voiced' to classical, and just cannot handle compressed, distorted signal. This is not just an occasional observation - it makes the music almost unlistenable, and certainly less fun, almost stressful, thinking what this amp COULD be. The hints do not outweigh the obvious warts

 Being that I am the PAYING customer, I can evaluate this amp with whatever I damn well please.

 Previously, the amp would distort horribly at anything in the elactronic guitar band, chords or single notes... maybe a specific manufacturing defect (caused by the shipper), but now I'm getting some fuzzy static in a different range(s), but typically when there seems to be saturation. 

 No A/B testing against the BH just yet, mainly because I am running VERY familiar material through the EA-6, with _some_ excellent results. Jane's Addiction - "SuperHero' is, in fact, simply stunning. Alison Krauss 'New Favorite' is also stunning, especially the vocals, acoustic guitar and dobro... 

 Alex ( [ak]zip ) and I will meet (with others) to compare it against his ES-1 (that I have spent many an hour listening to) and 007t, as well as my Blue Hawaii, with the HE60 (x3), his OII (x2), his OI (x2) and perhaps the Koss 950. 

 Current bottom line: NOWHERE close to the Orpheus (that I have also spent a few hours listening to - HE90 and HEV90), but all other comparisons will wait until there are at least 3 others to INDEPENDENTLY write their impressions in a shootout thread - in the meantime, it's my duty to run through MY preferred playlists to determine if I can keep this amp (instead of the BH), ask Peter for a refund, or sell it to someone who ONLY listens to Classical / acoustic music. Having already worked (and reworked) this amp, the topology just looks to be a REALLY bad fit for me.

 There - taking one for the team, but, I simply can't afford the time to continue working this design - 9 months is my limit._

 

I am really sorry for the difficulties that you've had with the EA-6. You've spent so much time already, in trying to make it work as satisfactorily as the BH, ES-1, stax amp., HEV90, etc., but without success. That's really sad. Can we assume that the distortion that occurs on the EA-6, when using the music that you've mentioned, and at the volumes that you've used, does not occur when using these other amps? I really look forward to the evaluation of these amps by several people, that's to come, and I hope that my forthcoming GES amp. turns out well in comparison to these amps.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Is there a list of all vintage/new Stax earspeakers and driver units and which can go with which? If not, someone needs to make a guide. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so then I will have to use STAX's own amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ? can these amps be used for other cans as well ?_

 

or will STAX's amp good for other cans, such as Audio-Technica, SONY, or Senn ? 

 ...


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or will STAX's amp good for other cans, such as Audio-Technica, SONY, or Senn ? 

 ..._

 

Stax amps are for electrostatic phones only, if u make an adapter, they'll fry your dynamics in half a blink.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hello STAX owners, I soon will be joining you all with my first STAX
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 in fact my first Electrostat ever._

 

Welcome to the great world of electrostatic headphones.
 It will be a pleasant stay!
  Quote:


 I have an extremely "newbie" question: seems like the phone connector is like XLR or they are some special STAX format? I know they will work fine with STAX Amps, but what about all other amps. Is there some kind of adaptor I will need to plug into other amps? 
 

The Stax phones use a proprietary plug.
 It will work with the Stax amplifiers and energizers, and aftermarket amplifiers which have a Stax connector. Beware that there are two plug versions, a 5 pin (580volt (Pro) bias) and a 6 pin (230volt (Normal) bias).

  Quote:


 is SR-007 very 'power hungry'? 
 

If going through an energizer, the amplifier would probably need to provide 30 watts or more.
  Quote:


 Will Lehmann Black Cube type of amp drive them ok? 
 

I don't know this amplifier, but if it provides about 30 watts it might be ok.
 You will need an SRD-7 Pro or MK2 energizer though...
  Quote:


 so then I will have to use STAX's own amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ? 
 

or one of the aftermarket amplifiers. You can even use a speaker amplifier though an energizer. 
  Quote:


 can these amps be used for other cans as well ? 
 

Yes, they can be used for other electrostatic headphones with comparable bias voltage.
 Example the Sennheiser HE90 and HE60.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or will STAX's amp good for other cans, such as Audio-Technica, SONY, or Senn ?_

 

Afaik neither Audio-Technica or Sony have made electrostatic headphones, so no go there. But the Sennheiser HE90 and HE60 should work fine out of a Stax amplifier, as long as you get a cable converter (different plugs).

 Lots of questions, but I hope this clears out most of them.


----------



## krmathis

Here are my attempt on a Stax Earspeaker, amplifier and energizer units guide.
 It is not complete, and might have errors. So please let me in if you have corrections, or additional products which I have not listed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In production = *Bold Green*
 Out of production = Black

 [size=medium]*Earspeakers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin plug)*:*
*SR-007 (Omega II)*
*4070*
*SR-404*
*SR-303*
*SR-202*
*SR-003*
*S-001 MK2* (proprietary plug)
Lambda Nova Signature
Lambda Nova Classic
Lambda Nova
SR-Omega
Lambda Pro Classic
SR-Lambda Signature
SR-Lambda Pro
SR-Sigma Pro
SR-Gamma Pro
Alfa Excellent
SR-X/MK3 Pro
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
*Koss ESP-950*
Sennheiser HE90
Sennheiser HE60

*Normal bias* (6 pin plug)*:*
SR-Sigma
SR-Lambda
SR-X/MK3
SR-5
SR-X/MK2
SR-X
SR-3
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
Beyer ET1000 (180v bias, but work fine at 230v)
Superex PEP-74
Magnavox 1A9217
Koss ESP6
Koss ESP7
Marantz SE-1
Infinity ES-1
Realistic HP-100

*Special bias* (_should_ work with an adapter cable)*:*
Jecklin Float (bias around 900v)
Koss ESP9
Koss ESP10


 [size=medium]*Amplifiers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin connector)*:*
*SRM-007tII*
*SRM-727II*
*SRM-006tII*
*SRM-323II*
*SRM-252II*
*SRM-310*
*SRM-001* (proprietary connector)
SRM-007t
SRM-717
SRM-006t
SRM-313
SRM-212
SRM-T2
SRM-T1S
SRM-T1
SRM-T1W
SRM-1/MK-2 PP
SRM-1/MK2
SRM-1 Pro
SRA-14S
SRM-X Pro
SRM-Xh
SRD-X Pro
Non-Stax (with Stax Pro connector):
*Singlepower ES-1*
*HeadAmp Blue Hawaii Special Edition* (coming soon-ish)
*HeadAmp KGSS*
*Rudistor Egmont Signature HE90*
*Rudistor Egmont Signature*
*Rudistor Egmont*
*McAlister Audio EA-6* (coming soon)
*McAlister Audio EA-4*
*McAlister Audio EA-1*
*Woo Audio GES*
*Masters BA-215TM*
HeadAmp Aristaeus
HeadAmp Blue Hawaii
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
Sennheiser HEV90
Sennheiser HEV70


*Normal bias* (6 pin connector)*:*
SRM-007t (some)
SRM-006t (some)
SRM-313
SRM-T2
SRM-T1S
SRM-1
SRM-1/MK2
SRM-1
SRA-14S
SRA-12S
SRA-10S


 [size=medium]*Energizers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin connector)*:*
SRD-7 Pro
SRD-7 MK2
non-Stax (but have a Stax Pro connector):
*illusion ESC-1001*

*Normal bias* (6 pin connector)*:*
SRD-7 MK2
SRD-7SB
SRD-6SB
SRD-7
SRD-6
SRD-5

 As you probably notice, some of the amplifiers and energizers are listed in both "Pro" and "Normal".
 Meaning that they have both connectors, and can drive any Stax electrostatic headspeaker.

 Edit 1: Added more Stax Earspeakers, and sections for non-Stax headphones. Ref. 'spritzer'.
 Edit 2: Added SRM-727II and SRM-717. As pointed out by 'Afrikane'.
 Edit 3: List sorted in chronological order, and added *Green* colour coding to the current in-production models.
 Edit 4: Added non-Stax amplifiers and energizers.
 Edit 5: Its Superex, not Suprex. Ref. 'wualta'.
 Edit 6: Added Master BA-215TM.


----------



## MaloS

Where in all of this do my SR-80 and SRD-4 fit? 5 pins both >.< (although its an electret)


----------



## spritzer

I would like to add to the above list some none Stax phones:

*Pro bias* (with an adapter)

 Sennheiser HE90
 Sennheiser HE60
 Koss ESP/950
 Stax Lambda Pro Classic
 Entire Stax Lambda Nova range

*Normal bias* (with an adapter)

 Beyer ET1000 (use a 180v bias but work fine off 230v)
 Suprex PEP-74
 Magnavox 1A9217 
 Koss ESP6 
 Koss ESP7
 Marantz SE-1
 Infinity ES-1
 Realistic HP-100

*Special bias* (but should work on a Stax amp with an adapter)

 Jecklin Float (bias around 900v)
 Koss ESP9
 Koss ESP10

 Phones that will *not* work off a Stax amp

 Micro Seiki MS-1


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where in all of this do my SR-80 and SRD-4 fit? 5 pins both >.< (although its an electret)_

 

You can drive them off any adapter box because there is no bias to worry about. The SRD-4 is an electret only adapter so there is no bias supply built in.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to add to the above list some none Stax phones:_

 

List updated. Thanks!


----------



## Afrikane

SRM717 & SRM727A Pro bias?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRM717 & SRM727A Pro bias?_

 

Ooops! I simply forgot that one... Added!


----------



## milkpowder

I would like to add that my 006tMk1 has two pro bias and one normal bias output. I think the ones towards the end of the Mk1 product line had three pro bias instead, but I'm not entirely sure.


----------



## Afrikane

Great list by the way, a real asset for non experts and noobs. Perhaps you could list in chronological order to differentiate between in production and oop?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to add that my 006tMk1 has two pro bias and one normal bias output. I think the ones towards the end of the Mk1 product line had three pro bias instead, but I'm not entirely sure._

 

Ok, so that goes for the 006t as well. Added 006t to Normal bias amplifiers list.
 Thanks!
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great list by the way, a real asset for non experts and noobs. Perhaps you could list in chronological order to differentiate between in production and oop?_

 

I am on it...


----------



## Afrikane

Sorry, did not mean to make you slave away on a Sunday.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, did not mean to make you slave away on a Sunday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No problem! I have nothing more important to do on a Sunday.


----------



## Afrikane

Phew! Carl would make you write out that list one hundred times if it was incomplete.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Thank you _so_ much krmathis and spritzer! That was a great list; I'm sure it'll provide a great reference for everyone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [size=xx-small]I, for one, almost bought an energizer thinking it was an amplifier. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




[/size]

 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you so much krmathis and spritzer! That was a great list; I'm sure it'll provide a great reference for everyone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [size=xx-small]I, for one, almost bought an energizer thinking it was an amplifier. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




[/size]_

 

Thanks for the nice feedback!
 It will hopefully lead some people on the right electrostatic headphone track ...


----------



## d-cee

question answered previously


----------



## Veniogenesis

I'm thinking of purchasing a vintage Stax. Does anyone know what the market is like for, say, Sigma Pros and Lambda pros? (Approximate range of prices and perhaps a fair price to pay for.)

 Thanks!


----------



## Downrange

Here's a design by Ciufolli. I priced the transformers alone at over 500 bucks, but wonder if the resulting quality (and use of new components) would be worth if?

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of purchasing a vintage Stax. Does anyone know what the market is like for, say, Sigma Pros and Lambda pros? (Approximate range of prices and perhaps a fair price to pay for.)_

 

Great choice!
 * The Sigma Pro's rarely come up for sale, so I am not quite sure about their going rate. Probably $4-600...
 * The Lambda Pro's going rate have gone up lately, so expect to pay $3-500 for a well taken care of pair.

 There are currently one Lambda Pro up for sale on eBay, and so far the highest bid are $200.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great choice!
 * The Sigma Pro's rarely come up for sale, so I am not quite sure about their going rate. Probably $4-600...
 * The Lambda Pro's going rate have gone up lately, so expect to pay $3-500 for a well taken care of pair.

 There are currently one Lambda Pro up for sale on eBay, and so far the highest bid are $200. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the tips! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is the Sigma Pro "higher-end" than the Lambda Pro? Or is it because of a scarcity issue that they're usually more expensive?

 Cheers and thanks!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tips! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is the Sigma Pro "higher-end" than the Lambda Pro? Or is it because of a scarcity issue that they're usually more expensive?_

 

I don't think they are "higher-end", just different. Their higher price are mostly caused by scarcity.

 'Carl' scored a Sigma Pro pair on Yahoo Japan one month ago.
 But such great deals are rare!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think they are "higher-end", just different. Their higher price are mostly caused by scarcity.

 'Carl' scored a Sigma Pro pair for $312 shipped on Yahoo Japan one month ago.
 But such great deals are rare! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The last pair of Sigma Pros I encountered were a NOS pair (or so they claimed) from an Audiogon wanted ad I posted. They were asking $700 for them. I thought it was a bit steep so I didn't bite.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think they are "higher-end", just different. Their higher price are mostly caused by scarcity.

 'Carl' scored a Sigma Pro pair on Yahoo Japan one month ago.
 But such great deals are rare! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh man. Simply amazing. $230.

 I went for the impulse buy on a Sigma Pro as well on YJA. I paid a rather comparatively large price for it. Haha, I'm not too good at bargain hunting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now... as for an amplifier to match it...

 On a completely unrelated note, I saw that someone (most likely a Head-Fier) scored a W2002 for $860. Pretty damn good.


----------



## spritzer

You need a very good amp to drive the Sigma Pro's if they aren't to sound muddy and congested. Look for plenty of voltage swing to get them going.


----------



## d-cee

i scored my stax lambda pro + srm-1/mk-2 for US$455 i'm pretty sure i got a huge bargain and they're in absolute mint condition


----------



## Veniogenesis

Argh, now I regret jumping on them so fast. I've realized I paid a rather high price for mine. This is going to suck considering I don't have any cash to purchase an amplifier in the foreseeable future (many months). Maybe I'll sell them and hope not to sell for a loss (unlikely).


----------



## d-cee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Argh, now I regret jumping on them so fast. I've realized I paid a rather high price for mine. This is going to suck considering I don't have any cash to purchase an amplifier in the foreseeable future (many months). Maybe I'll sell them and hope not to sell for a loss (unlikely)._

 

wait... you didn't just jump on these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=120095491029 did you?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a design by Ciufolli. I priced the transformers alone at over 500 bucks, but wonder if the resulting quality (and use of new components) would be worth if?

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html_

 

When I checked the price of the Lundahl transformers I thought they were about $120 USD a piece. They have a turns ratio of 14.4:1 and the Stax SRD-7 trans is 24:1. The Lundahl trans would need considerably more voltage drive from the amp. 36 watts driving the SRD would take 100 watts on the Lundahl for the same level (not actual watts but the voltage required for that wattage rating into 8 ohms). For this reason I passed on them. I am testing the trans out of my old Koss E/9 energizer for possible use. They are fairly big and probably have better low frequency performance than the SRD, but the jury is still out. You do not need a expensive transformer for the Bias supply.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I checked the price of the Lundahl transformers I thought they were about $120 USD a piece. They have a turns ratio of 14.4:1 and the Stax SRD-7 trans is 24:1. The Lundahl trans would need considerably more voltage drive from the amp. For this reason I passed on them. I am testing the trans out of my old Koss E/9 energizer for possible use. They are fairly big and probably have better low frequency performance than the SRD, but the jury is still out. You do not need a expensive transformer for the Bias supply.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A 20$ Hammond transformer is plenty for the bias supply.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i scored my stax lambda pro + srm-1/mk-2 for US$455 i'm pretty sure i got a huge bargain and they're in absolute mint condition_

 

I paid the same amount for my Lambda Pro and black SRM-1/MK2, which happens to be in excellent condition as well. Pretty good deals we got there, I must say!
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Argh, now I regret jumping on them so fast. I've realized I paid a rather high price for mine. This is going to suck considering I don't have any cash to purchase an amplifier in the foreseeable future (many months). Maybe I'll sell them and hope not to sell for a loss (unlikely)._

 

Send me a PM if you ever decide to sell them!


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh man. Simply amazing. $230.

 I went for the impulse buy on a Sigma Pro as well on YJA. I paid a rather comparatively large price for it. Haha, I'm not too good at bargain hunting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now... as for an amplifier to match it...

 On a completely unrelated note, I saw that someone (most likely a Head-Fier) scored a W2002 for $860. Pretty damn good._

 

Was it the one that just ended a few hours ago?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great choice!
 * The Sigma Pro's rarely come up for sale, so I am not quite sure about their going rate. Probably $4-600...
 * The Lambda Pro's going rate have gone up lately, so expect to pay $3-500 for a well taken care of pair.

 There are currently one Lambda Pro up for sale on eBay, and so far the highest bid are $200. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You referring to this auction?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2506&rd=1&rd=1

 Found it weird that its stated as a Lambda Pro but then when you look closer at the pictures of the earspeakers; specifically at the connector, its a 6pin. Lambda low bias? Or are the old Lambda low bias version also labelled "Pro"?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You referring to this auction?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2506&rd=1&rd=1

 Found it weird that its stated as a Lambda Pro but then when you look closer at the pictures of the earspeakers; specifically at the connector, its a 6pin. Lambda low bias? Or are the old Lambda low bias version also labelled "Pro"?_

 

Yup it is a low bias Lambda , not a Lambda Pro.


----------



## d-cee

zing zing, was wondering why it was going so cheap


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You referring to this auction?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2506&rd=1&rd=1

 Found it weird that its stated as a Lambda Pro but then when you look closer at the pictures of the earspeakers; specifically at the connector, its a 6pin. Lambda low bias? Or are the old Lambda low bias version also labelled "Pro"?_

 

Yes, that is the one I talked about.
 And you are right, the picture certainly show a low bias SR-Lambda, not a Lambda Pro. He probably don't know better, or try to scam us! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not look closely at the picture, just read the subject line. The seller don't ship to my location, so I did not care much about it...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kevin was iffy about the KT77 (not sure why), but most likely HE never bothers with anythiong other than Mullard xf2... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, regarding the EA-6, it is still not perfect, and has some REALLY rough spots (Tool, 10k Days, has parts that breal up really bad in saturated guitar), and yet, Hoobastank, Alison Krauss and Janes Addiction are all superb, with glorious microdetail that eludes the BH... I am simply baffled, and no 'It's broken' excuse this time. He also went to 17GW6 instead of 6BQ6, so it definitely has way more gain... more results to come. And, once I gat Alex to wake up and help me figure this out..._

 

If i'm not mistaken(and I very well could be) the McAlister amps have very low maximum output voltage.As in not a whole lot of voltage swing. Are you sure it's not simply clipping on complex passages ? Running out of steam so to speak on temporary but sustained peaks.(ie: guitar) Personally I think that may be what it is.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A 20$ Hammond transformer is plenty for the bias supply._

 

Thanks for the info, Audiod and Spritzer!

 Guess I'll keep looking for an SRD-7 Pro/MkII


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If i'm not mistaken(and I very well could be) the McAlister amps have very low maximum output voltage.As in not a whole lot of voltage swing. Are you sure it's not simply clipping on complex passages ? Running out of steam so to speak on temporary but sustained peaks.(ie: guitar) Personally I think that may be what it is._

 

Yep, could well be, as that seems exactly what is happening... going through the other due diligence now (Deoxit, tube rolling, etc)... more later.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a design by Ciufolli. I priced the transformers alone at over 500 bucks, but wonder if the resulting quality (and use of new components) would be worth if?

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html_

 

One can improve a lot on Stax's cheap transformers, so if you can afford it, go for it. Alternatively you could replace the wire and transformers in one of Stax's units for similar effect.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great choice!
 * The Sigma Pro's rarely come up for sale, so I am not quite sure about their going rate. Probably $4-600...
 * The Lambda Pro's going rate have gone up lately, so expect to pay $3-500 for a well taken care of pair.

 There are currently one Lambda Pro up for sale on eBay, and so far the highest bid are $200. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Another Sigma Pro was up on YJ last night. Annoyingly the listing isn't showing up on Aucfan and I didn't keep the browser window open, so I don't know how much it went for. 30-40k yen I'd imagine.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went for the impulse buy on a Sigma Pro as well on YJA. I paid a rather comparatively large price for it. Haha, I'm not too good at bargain hunting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now... as for an amplifier to match it..._

 

Oh, so it was you! Hahaha. How much did it end up going for?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If i'm not mistaken(and I very well could be) the McAlister amps have very low maximum output voltage._

 

Not very low when compared to Stax's amps, but certainly when compared to the ES1 and Blue Hawaii. Some 'stats (HE90 for example) need less power than others, so it's not _necessarily_ an issue.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not very low when compared to Stax's amps, but certainly when compared to the ES1 and Blue Hawaii. Some 'stats (HE90 for example) need less power than others, so it's not necessarily an issue._

 

I believe the EA-1 only puts out 350v, the same as a SRM-313. Not sure on the EA-4 & EA-6.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Sigma Pro was up on YJ last night. Annoyingly the listing isn't showing up on Aucfan and I didn't keep the browser window open, so I don't know how much it went for. 30-40k yen I'd imagine._

 

Guess I should watch Yahoo! Japan more often!
 Cause it seems to be the "only" place where Sigma Pro's and Illusion ESC-1001's come up for sale.

 Its just that the Japanese language barrier is a big hurdle for me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyone know a good English speaking search engine for Yahoo! Japan?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I checked the price of the Lundahl transformers I thought they were about $120 USD a piece. They have a turns ratio of 14.4:1 and the Stax SRD-7 trans is 24:1. The Lundahl trans would need considerably more voltage drive from the amp. 36 watts driving the SRD would take 100 watts on the Lundahl for the same level (not actual watts but the voltage required for that wattage rating into 8 ohms). For this reason I passed on them. I am testing the trans out of my old Koss E/9 energizer for possible use. They are fairly big and probably have better low frequency performance than the SRD, but the jury is still out. You do not need a expensive transformer for the Bias supply.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It looks like my setup would still power that with little problem. It's tempting I must say, those would be nicer transformers than in the SRD-7s. I do notice the parts list mentions two LL1651s though. Am I missing something or should only one be required? I would have thought based on the LL1651 datasheet that to get 500V (from a 230V supply like Italy has) you could connect terminal 4 to 1 and 2 to 3. I could of course just be misreading the circuit and the datasheeet. Unfortunately that circuit is just a bit vague on the connections to the primary. Guess I could email the author for clarification.

 On another note, it seems he's also made some Stax amps and posted circuit diagrams although in essence both would appear to be high voltage amps with a low ratio transformer box attached on the output.
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_amp.html
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_amp2.html

 Edit: A link to the transformer box circuit might be helpful.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One can improve a lot on Stax's cheap transformers, so if you can afford it, go for it. Alternatively you could replace the wire and transformers in one of Stax's units for similar effect.



 Another Sigma Pro was up on YJ last night. Annoyingly the listing isn't showing up on Aucfan and I didn't keep the browser window open, so I don't know how much it went for. 30-40k yen I'd imagine.



 Oh, so it was you! Hahaha. How much did it end up going for?



*Not very low when compared to Stax's amps, but certainly when compared to the ES1 and Blue Hawaii. Some 'stats (HE90 for example) need less power than others, so it's not necessarily an issue*._

 

There's never been any clipping with my EA-4/HE90 combo, or with various EA-4/Stax headphone setups used at several meets.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe the EA-1 only puts out 350v, the same as a SRM-313. Not sure on the EA-4 & EA-6._

 

I'm fairly sure that my EA-4 puts out 500v at the HE90 outlet, and 580v at the high voltage Stax outlet. It also has a second Stax outlet, which is low voltage.


----------



## mikeg

Very valuable list, that's really appreciated. Please add the Woo Audio GES amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are my attempt on a Stax Earspeaker, amplifier and energizer units guide.
 It is not complete, and might have errors. So please let me in if you have corrections, or additional products which I have not listed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 In production = *Bold Green*
 Out of production = Black

 [size=medium]*Earspeakers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin plug)*:*
*SR-007 (Omega II)*
*4070*
*SR-404*
*SR-303*
*SR-202*
*SR-003*
*S-001 MK2* (proprietary plug)
Lambda Nova Signature
Lambda Nova Classic
Lambda Nova
SR-Omega
Lambda Pro Classic
SR-Lambda Signature
SR-Lambda Pro
SR-Sigma Pro
SR-Gamma Pro
Alfa Excellent
SR-X/MK3 Pro
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
*Koss ESP-950*
Sennheiser HE90
Sennheiser HE60

*Normal bias* (6 pin plug)*:*
SR-Sigma
SR-Lambda
SR-X/MK3
SR-5
SR-X/MK2
SR-X
SR-3
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
Beyer ET1000 (180v bias, but work fine at 230v)
Suprex PEP-74
Magnavox 1A9217
Koss ESP6
Koss ESP7
Marantz SE-1
Infinity ES-1
Realistic HP-100

*Special bias* (should work with an adapter cable)*:*
Jecklin Float (bias around 900v)
Koss ESP9
Koss ESP10


 [size=medium]*Amplifiers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin connector)*:*
*SRM-007tII*
*SRM-727II*
*SRM-006tII*
*SRM-323II*
*SRM-252II*
*SRM-310*
*SRM-001* (proprietary connector)
SRM-007t
SRM-717
SRM-006t
SRM-313
SRM-212
SRM-T2
SRM-T1S
SRM-T1
SRM-T1W
SRM-1/MK-2 PP
SRM-1/MK2
SRM-1 Pro
SRA-14S
SRM-X Pro
SRM-Xh
SRD-X Pro
Non-Stax (with Stax Pro connector):
*Singlepower ES-1*
*HeadAmp Blue Hawaii Special Edition* (coming soon-ish)
*HeadAmp KGSS*
*Rudistor Egmont Signature HE90*
*Rudistor Egmont Signature*
*Rudistor Egmont*
*McAlister Audio EA-6* (coming soon)
*McAlister Audio EA-4*
*McAlister Audio EA-1*
*Woo Audio GES*
HeadAmp Aristaeus
HeadAmp Blue Hawaii
Non-Stax (works with an adapter cable):
Sennheiser HEV90
Sennheiser HEV70


*Normal bias* (6 pin connector)*:*
SRM-007t (some)
SRM-006t (some)
SRM-313
SRM-T2
SRM-T1S
SRM-1
SRM-1/MK2
SRM-1
SRA-14S
SRA-12S
SRA-10S


 [size=medium]*Energizers:*[/size]

*Pro bias* (5 pin connector)*:*
SRD-7 Pro
SRD-7 MK2
non-Stax (but have a Stax Pro connector):
*illusion ESC-1001*

*Normal bias* (6 pin connector)*:*
SRD-7 MK2
SRD-7SB
SRD-6SB
SRD-7
SRD-6
SRD-5

 As you probably notice, some of the amplifiers and energizers are listed in both "Pro" and "Normal".
 Meaning that they have both connectors, and can drive any Stax electrostatic headspeaker.

 Edit 1: Added more Stax Earspeakers, and sections for non-Stax headphones. Ref. 'spritzer'.
 Edit 2: Added SRM-727II and SRM-717. As pointed out by 'Afrikane'.
 Edit 3: List sorted in chronological order, and added *Green* colour coding to the current in-production models.
 Edit 4: Added non-Stax amplifiers and energizers._


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very valuable list, that's really appreciated. Please add the Woo Audio GES amp_

 

Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I sure hope it becomes valuable for those who want to step into the electrostatic headphone land.

 By the way, the Woo Audio GES are already in the list...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm fairly sure that my EA-4 puts out 500v at the HE90 outlet, and 580v at the high voltage Stax outlet. It also has a second Stax outlet, which is low voltage._

 

You are confusing bias voltage with voltage swing. Voltage swing is the comparative power rating so higher is better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's never been any clipping with my EA-4/HE90 combo, or with various EA-4/Stax headphone setups used at several meets._

 

Have you tried the EA-4 with some taxing heavy metal or the like?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's never been any clipping with my EA-4/HE90 combo, or with various EA-4/Stax headphone setups used at several meets._

 

You wouldn't notice a lack of voltage as clipping. It would in my experience show a lack of dynamics and overall drive.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* 
_I'm fairly sure that my EA-4 puts out 500v at the HE90 outlet, and 580v at the high voltage Stax outlet. It also has a second Stax outlet, which is low voltage._

 

It's not the bias voltage that's the issue. It's the voltage swing in the signal.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are confusing bias voltage with voltage swing. Voltage swing is the comparative power rating so higher is better. 



*Have you tried the EA-4 with some taxing heavy metal or the like*?_

 


 I haven't, but others played all sorts of music (including heavy metal) on it, at several meets, and no one ever mentioned hearing any clipping. Most everyone's opinion was that my EA-4 is a great sounding amp., although not as great an an HEV90.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You wouldn't notice a lack of voltage as clipping. It would in my experience show a lack of dynamics and overall drive._

 

You are correct for the most part,but when those things happen(lack of dynamics,etc.)A person generally will try and make up for it by increasing volume, and that's when clipping will rear it's ugly self.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Sigma Pro was up on YJ last night. Ann
 oyingly the listing isn't showing up on Aucfan and I didn't keep the browser window open, so I don't know how much it went for. 30-40k yen I'd imagine.

 Oh, so it was you! Hahaha. How much did it end up going for?_

 

Ended up at almost 50k yen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I went into a bidding battle against someone and managed to somehow exchange bids so much that we raised the price by 15k in 15 minutes. It was horrible. I hate how YJA keeps extending the time if anyone bids within the last 5 minutes of the auction. The auction ended up extending at least 8 times. Arghhh. Gah....... *pout*

 With deputy my service's huge fees, I'm going to have spent a pretty huge penny for these Sigma Pros. Hopefully I can figure something out. Sell my PPX3 and go Stax? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try to sell the Sigma Pro and hope for a minimal loss?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like my setup would still power that with little problem. It's tempting I must say, those would be nicer transformers than in the SRD-7s. I do notice the parts list mentions two LL1651s though. Am I missing something or should only one be required? I would have thought based on the LL1651 datasheet that to get 500V (from a 230V supply like Italy has) you could connect terminal 4 to 1 and 2 to 3. I could of course just be misreading the circuit and the datasheeet. Unfortunately that circuit is just a bit vague on the connections to the primary. Guess I could email the author for clarification.

 On another note, it seems he's also made some Stax amps and posted circuit diagrams although in essence both would appear to be high voltage amps with a low ratio transformer box attached on the output.
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_amp.html
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_amp2.html

 Edit: A link to the transformer box circuit might be helpful._

 

Somebody posted earlier today that you really only need the two 120 buck tsfmrs - the other two (don't know why they called for two, either
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) are way overkill for the very low current bias circuit, which can be powered by a cheapie with zero degradation of audio quality.

 I noticed the amps and other links on his pages too, pretty interesting. I may build a custom box for my Omega IIs and drive them with a Perreaux 3150


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somebody posted earlier today that you really only need the two 120 buck tsfmrs - the other two (don't know why they called for two, either
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) are way overkill for the very low current bias circuit, which can be powered by a cheapie with zero degradation of audio quality.

 I noticed the amps and other links on his pages too, pretty interesting. I may build a custom box for my Omega IIs and drive them with a Perreaux 3150 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, given it's the bias supply that transformer is overkill but I have my doubts about suitable transformers being generally available here in NZ and I suspect when shipping is factored in buying the lot from Lundahl wouldn't end up being that much more expensive. Besides, this is head-fi. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Still, I'll look around and see if I can find a cheaper option for a 230V supply.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, that is the one I talked about.
 And you are right, the picture certainly show a low bias SR-Lambda, not a Lambda Pro. He probably don't know better, or try to scam us! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not look closely at the picture, just read the subject line. The seller don't ship to my location, so I did not care much about it..._

 

Two days before the auction ended the seller added the information that this Lambdas are 6 pin/230 V bias and that he might have got the wrong manual when he purchased them many years ago.Doesn't seem to be scam attempt.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's never been any clipping with my EA-4/HE90 combo, or with various EA-4/Stax headphone setups used at several meets._

 

Well... one would hope not. The issue isn't about volume, it's about controlling a large diaphragm with a mass of a few milligrams using only electrostatic force. There are other ways to do this than just large power reserves perhaps, but high voltages and fast slew rates are typically how it's done.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm fairly sure that my EA-4 puts out 500v at the HE90 outlet, and 580v at the high voltage Stax outlet. It also has a second Stax outlet, which is low voltage._

 

He was talking about the voltage swing of the amplifier (the one fed to the stators), not the fixed bias voltage fed to the diaphragm. Stax's own amps do 280-450Vrms depending on the model. The EA-1 does... what was it again? ~350Vpp? I've forgotten the equation for converting root mean square values to peak-to-peak values, but that would put it around the same as Stax's weaker amps. (Of course, being Peter you could just ask him to use beefier tubes).


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are correct for the most part,but when those things happen(lack of dynamics,etc.)A person generally will try and make up for it by increasing volume, and that's when clipping will rear it's ugly self._

 

And when you're on a desperate quest to lower the SPL without reducing musical involvement, it starts to become an issue. Most good headphones work well with the volume cranked.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try to sell the Sigma Pro and hope for a minimal loss? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Listen to them through a good, powerful amp before you do. I just bought my pair because they were on my "want to hear" list, but it'd take an extreme act of willpower to try and sell them now. They may not quite be in the HE60/Omega II/4070 class, but they're bloody good nonetheless.

 They sound rather retched underamped, though, so make sure you drive them from something with plenty of guts.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, given it's the bias supply that transformer is overkill but I have my doubts about suitable transformers being generally available here in NZ and I suspect when shipping is factored in buying the lot from Lundahl wouldn't end up being that much more expensive. Besides, this is head-fi. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Still, I'll look around and see if I can find a cheaper option for a 230V supply._

 

You don't necessarily need to go Lundahl anyway. With the transformer specs in hand you can get just about any custom winder to make one for you, be it Tribute/Electra-Print/Sowter/etc. I'd imagine Tango and Tamura would have something suitable on their books, too.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He was talking about the voltage swing of the amplifier (the one fed to the stators), not the fixed bias voltage fed to the diaphragm. Stax's own amps do 280-450Vrms depending on the model. The EA-1 does... what was it again? ~350Vpp? I've forgotten the equation for converting root mean square values to peak-to-peak values, but that would put it around the same as Stax's weaker amps. (Of course, being Peter you could just ask him to use beefier tubes)._

 

Kevin Gilmore made a post about this at one point regarding the best swing you could get out of a given design...Yep, here it is...
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...77&postcount=3

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_You don't necessarily need to go Lundahl anyway. With the transformer specs in hand you can get just about any custom winder to make one for you, be it Tribute/Electra-Print/Sowter/etc. I'd imagine Tango and Tamura would have something suitable on their books, too._

 

Last time I looked at custom transformer winding it didn't cost any less than that Lundahl one. But yeah, there may be others with something similar on their books. Whether it would work out cheaper or not in the end with shipping, I don't know. Worth some investigation though I think.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Last time I looked at custom transformer winding it didn't cost any less than that Lundahl one. But yeah, there may be others with something similar on their books. Whether it would work out cheaper or not in the end with shipping, I don't know. Worth some investigation though I think._

 

You know you want it wound with silver wire, don't go trying to deny it.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know you want it wound with silver wire, don't go trying to deny it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

No, not at all..._*cough*_...Well...yeah....okay...I admit it....I do.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ended up at almost 50k yen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I went into a bidding battle against someone and managed to somehow exchange bids so much that we raised the price by 15k in 15 minutes. It was horrible. I hate how YJA keeps extending the time if anyone bids within the last 5 minutes of the auction. The auction ended up extending at least 8 times. Arghhh. Gah....... *pout*

 With deputy my service's huge fees, I'm going to have spent a pretty huge penny for these Sigma Pros. Hopefully I can figure something out. Sell my PPX3 and go Stax? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try to sell the Sigma Pro and hope for a minimal loss? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thats quite a lot for a Sigma Pro. Your best bet if you plan to keep them is to use a Stax adapter and a power amp to drive them. They need a lot of voltage and the lower priced amps can't give that much.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, given it's the bias supply that transformer is overkill but I have my doubts about suitable transformers being generally available here in NZ and I suspect when shipping is factored in buying the lot from Lundahl wouldn't end up being that much more expensive. Besides, this is head-fi. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Still, I'll look around and see if I can find a cheaper option for a 230V supply._

 

Mouser sells the right one. You don't even need a transformer since it is only an isolation device for 230v but I do not recommend it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He was talking about the voltage swing of the amplifier (the one fed to the stators), not the fixed bias voltage fed to the diaphragm. Stax's own amps do 280-450Vrms depending on the model. The EA-1 does... what was it again? ~350Vpp? I've forgotten the equation for converting root mean square values to peak-to-peak values, but that would put it around the same as Stax's weaker amps. (Of course, being Peter you could just ask him to use beefier tubes)._

 

The RMS value is 70.7% of the P-P value.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Sigma Pro was up on YJ last night. Annoyingly the listing isn't showing up on Aucfan and I didn't keep the browser window open, so I don't know how much it went for. 30-40k yen I'd imagine.

 Oh, so it was you! Hahaha. How much did it end up going for?_

 

I went for it too but alas it became too much for me..... IIRC it went for about Yen46,500 ~ US$744? Too much just too much and I thought no one caught on to it and I could have gotten my hands on it. Dang. FYI there was also a non-pro Sigma on auction as well and ended about 6 hours ago.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The RMS value is 70.7% of the P-P value._

 

Yes, that's the one. Thanks, Spritzer!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mouser sells the right one. You don't even need a transformer since it is only an isolation device for 230v but I do not recommend it._

 

From my reading it's using the transformer to get 500V from a 230V supply so I assume it would still be necessary. I could be reading it wrong though, it doesn't show the connections to the primary. I do have an account with Mouser but their site is acting up for me currently. Have to take a look another time.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From my reading it's using the transformer to get 500V from a 230V supply so I assume it would still be necessary. I could be reading it wrong though, it doesn't show the connections to the primary. I do have an account with Mouser but their site is acting up for me currently. Have to take a look another time._

 

You do not need a 500v transformer for this. A simple adjustable voltage doubler is enough. Kevin posted once an adjustable always on bias supply that would work and it used a simple 117/230v -> 230v transformer. 





Large

 I haven't built this one yet but I have built something similar without a transformer for testing and it works. Not something that I would put into one of my amps though.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do not need a 500v transformer for this. A simple adjustable voltage doubler is enough. Kevin posted once an adjustable always on bias supply that would work and it used a simple 117/230v -> 230v transformer. 





Large

 I haven't built this one yet but I have built something similar without a transformer for testing and it works. Not something that I would put into one of my amps though._

 

Ah, I see what you're getting at. I was just assuming you meant replacing the transformer in the existing circuit on that site. But yes, I'm more familiar with a voltage doubler circuit like that and it would let me use a much cheaper transformer so it's a win all round. Many thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I see what you're getting at. I was just assuming you meant replacing the transformer in the existing circuit on that site. But yes, I'm more familiar with a voltage doubler circuit like that and it would let me use a much cheaper transformer so it's a win all round. Many thanks for the suggestion._

 

The Ciuffoli design is just too much for my tastes. Jensen film caps are good but the Vishay film caps are much more reliable and thats what counts here.


----------



## Veniogenesis

From what I understand, the Sigma Pro needs quite a powerful amplifier. Would the SRM-1 do a decent job?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I understand, the Sigma Pro needs quite a powerful amplifier. Would the SRM-1 do a decent job? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It should be ok but I haven't tried them with it.


----------



## Downrange

I'm still sort of in the hunt for an SRD-7 Pro, and also possibly looking at building an adapter. I'm not at all sure how you'd calculate the available voltage swing out of such a contraption. Has anyone tried? Since OIIs need a healthy swing to sound their best, I'd planned on using a healthy SS driver to my future adapter, one that puts out over 400 watts into a 4 ohm load, around 300 into 8 ohms, iirc. But how much voltage swing does this translate to at the 'phones?
 Those of you who've tried SRD7 with OIIs, please weigh in with your opinions. How does it sound compared with something like the KGSS? 
 Somehow, the whole transformer idea seems kind of bass-ackwards to me, honestly, like putting a cart in front of a horse. Still, Carl and others endorse it, so I'm still looking at the possibilities. Also, anyone with ideas on using the less efficient (generate less voltage than SRD-7) high dollar Swedish transformers and how that would affect drivability and voltage swing on OIIs, please chime in.
 Thanks.


----------



## humanflyz

I thought maybe this the appropriate place to ask: can someone who has had some experience with both the O2 and the 4070 side-by-side compare them? At this point, I know that my next rig will be an e-stat one. I pretty much narrowed down amplification to the KGSS for the following reasons: I like SS, I liked all of KG's dynamic designs, the KGSS+O2 synergy has been reported on more than on e occasion from people whose ears I trust, and it is decently priced. 

 So if anyone can give some impressions on how the 4070 stacks up to the O2, I would really appreciate it. I won't be able to get this e-stat rig until the fall, but I like to plan ahead if possible.


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought maybe this the appropriate place to ask: can someone who has had some experience with both the O2 and the 4070 side-by-side compare them? At this point, I know that my next rig will be an e-stat one. I pretty much narrowed down amplification to the KGSS for the following reasons: I like SS, I liked all of KG's dynamic designs, the KGSS+O2 synergy has been reported on more than on e occasion from people whose ears I trust, and it is decently priced. 

 So if anyone can give some impressions on how the 4070 stacks up to the O2, I would really appreciate it. I won't be able to get this e-stat rig until the fall, but I like to plan ahead if possible._

 

X2.


 may I add SONY R10 into the equation ?


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_X2.


 may I add SONY R10 into the equation ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The R10 is not an electro-stat, and for the record, I didnt' like it when I heard it, well not enough to warrant the purchase anyways. In fact, outside of Stax, I am just not a big fan of Japanese high-end headphones.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somehow, the whole transformer idea seems kind of bass-ackwards to me, honestly, like putting a cart in front of a horse. Still, Carl and others endorse it, so I'm still looking at the possibilities.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I can only go on what my ears tell me. I spent hundreds on a 3030 system and was extremely happy with it for a few weeks, then (because of what I'd read on this website) snapped up a set of SR-Xs and an SRD-6 (SB) transformer (solely to hear the SR-Xs).

 Never mind about the SR-Xs (their status is well-established amongst the _cogniscenti_ here), what shocked me was how good the SRD-6 was (driven by a decent amp: a Naim 32.5/140) compared to the SRM-313 and an SRM-1 Mk 2, of which the latter is also well-lauded on these pages.

 This was not what I wanted to know! Having just spent 6 times the money of the SR-Xs/SRD-6 for the 3030, I really wanted the latter to be 6 times better, or at least twice as good! It wasn't so: listening through the SR-Xs was loads better on the SRD-6 than the 313 or SRM-1.

 Personally, I believe that, in common with most non-flat earth hi fi manufacturers, Stax Japan can't really do stunning electronics, so, even though a transformer should be crap, they actually do less harm (again, when driven by a good power amp) than the Stax amps.

 Like you, want I now want is a transformer box that'll drive Pro earspeakers, but surely one of you egg-heads out there knows how to up the bias voltage on an SRD-7 (mains bias version) so I can try it for free (or almost for free, just a few simple components?). My soldering iron awaits!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still sort of in the hunt for an SRD-7 Pro, and also possibly looking at building an adapter. I'm not at all sure how you'd calculate the available voltage swing out of such a contraption. Has anyone tried? Since OIIs need a healthy swing to sound their best, I'd planned on using a healthy SS driver to my future adapter, one that puts out over 400 watts into a 4 ohm load, around 300 into 8 ohms, iirc. But how much voltage swing does this translate to at the 'phones?
 Those of you who've tried SRD7 with OIIs, please weigh in with your opinions. How does it sound compared with something like the KGSS? 
 Somehow, the whole transformer idea seems kind of bass-ackwards to me, honestly, like putting a cart in front of a horse. Still, Carl and others endorse it, so I'm still looking at the possibilities. Also, anyone with ideas on using the less efficient (generate less voltage than SRD-7) high dollar Swedish transformers and how that would affect drivability and voltage swing on OIIs, please chime in.
 Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The transformers in the SRD-7 have a turns ratio of 24:1 and the Lundahl transformers have a 14.4:1 turns ratio. A 300 watt (into 8 ohms) amp is developing about 50 volts across the load. Just multiply the turns ratio by the voltage and you get the output voltage to the stats. In either case the voltage is higher than any SRM made by Stax. It would be LOUD and possibbly enough to arc the stat elements (I do not know the arc voltage of the O2). The transformers would be over their watt rating and overheat also. I would think 75 to 100 watts (rated into 8 ohms) would be plenty with either trans.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought maybe this the appropriate place to ask: can someone who has had some experience with both the O2 and the 4070 side-by-side compare them? At this point, I know that my next rig will be an e-stat one. I pretty much narrowed down amplification to the KGSS for the following reasons: I like SS, I liked all of KG's dynamic designs, the KGSS+O2 synergy has been reported on more than on e occasion from people whose ears I trust, and it is decently priced. 

 So if anyone can give some impressions on how the 4070 stacks up to the O2, I would really appreciate it. I won't be able to get this e-stat rig until the fall, but I like to plan ahead if possible._

 

I don't know of anyone who's compared them directly side by side. I own the O2s and Carl owns the 4070s and recently we did a week long swap but of course that means neither had both on hand at any one time to compare directly. A benefit though is that we did get to use them with our own systems eliminating most other possible points of difference that would trouble a comparison.

 In my opinion the decision should come down to how much isolation you require, the 4070s isolate more in both directions. They'll bother other's less and you will be bothered less by external noise. Both headphones are great once they've got a good charge but I did find I had to put the volume higher for the 4070s for them to really do the trick. The level of refinement of both is very high. 

 Which did I prefer and why? To me the O2 has superior frontal headstage and imaging which I suspect is due to the large round driver and shape of the pads. The 4070 headstage sounded more two dimensional extending out around the ears but very little seemed to come from in front of my face the way the O2s manage. I also find the O2 a little better at dynamics. There were times I was just wanting the 4070 to deliver just that little extra oomph for me to be 100% happy. What I'm talking about are those moments when you're really into the song and you're thinking "Oh, I love the bit coming up next" but when it got there it was just a little less magical than you were expecting. When I say a little less I really mean a little. It was clearly noticeable to me but a small difference all the same. I think it's best said in the form that the O2 has superior dynamic resolution but the 4070 is definitely in the same ball park. There are differences in the frequency response too and which you prefer will come down to taste. I believe the metaphor Carl used was that the 4070 was a little "flat chested" in comparison which sits well with me. I think this is where the "good for monitoring" aspect of the 4070 comes in but anyone thinking the 4070 is not musical would be mistaken. Indeed the 4070 is very enjoyable to listen to.

 I'd like to stress again though that these points of difference are by and large small, I certainly don't want to exaggerate them so that people think these are vastly different headphones in completely different leagues. Both have a similar character and level of refinement. To my ears neither have significant weaknesses but I do find the O2 has the edge, especially given my tastes in presentation. This is why in my opinion the need for isolation is the main factor I would use to guide a buying decision between these two.

 I can't comment at all on the R10 as I've never heard it.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 This was not what I wanted to know! Having just spent 6 times the money of the SR-Xs/SRD-6 for the 3030, I really wanted the latter to be 6 times better, or at least twice as good! It wasn't so: listening through the SR-Xs was loads better on the SRD-6 than the 313 or SRM-1.
_

 

Welcome to the light, that's why I sold my Stax amps, even the ancient and lowly SRD6 sounds awesome through a decent amp. Or even a really cheap decent amp in my case. I love the t-amps with the SR-X


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like you, want I now want is a transformer box that'll drive Pro earspeakers, but surely one of you egg-heads out there knows how to up the bias voltage on an SRD-7 (mains bias version) so I can try it for free (or almost for free, just a few simple components?). My soldering iron awaits!_

 

You can just use the schematic above and skip the transformer. It's not recommended but Stax all other makers of electrostatic headphones didn't use a transformer for the bias supply. This doesn't apply to the self biased types but they are driven of the audio trafos secondary.


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know of anyone who's compared them directly side by side. I own the O2s and Carl owns the 4070s and recently we did a week long swap but of course that means neither had both on had at any one time to compare directly. A benefit though is that we did get to use them with our own systems eliminating most other possible points of difference that would trouble a comparison.

 In my opinion the decision should come down to how much isolation you require, the 4070s isolate more in both directions. They'll bother other's less and you will be bothered less by external noise. Both headphones are great once they've got a good charge but I did find I had to put the volume higher for the 4070s for them to really do the trick. The level of refinement of both is very high. 

 Which did I prefer and why? To me the O2 has superior frontal headstage and imaging which I suspect is due to the large round driver and shape of the pads. The 4070 headstage sounded more two dimensional extending out around the ears but very little seemed to come from in front of my face the way the O2s manage. I also find the O2 a little better at dynamics. There were times I was just wanting the 4070 to deliver just that little extra oomph for me to be 100% happy. What I'm talking about are those moments when you're really into the song and you're thinking "Oh, I love the bit coming up next" but when it got there it was just a little less magical than you were expecting. When I say a little less I really mean a little. It was clearly noticeable to me but a small difference all the same. I think it's best said in the form that the O2 has superior dynamic resolution but the 4070 is definitely in the same ball park. There are differences in the frequency response too and which you prefer will come down to taste. I believe the metaphor Carl used was that the 4070 was a little "flat chested" in comparison which sits well with me. I think this is where the "good for monitoring" aspect of the 4070 comes in but anyone thinking the 4070 is not musical would be mistaken. Indeed the 4070 is very enjoyable to listen to.

 I'd like to stress again though that these points of difference are by and large small, I certainly don't want to exaggerate them so that people think these are vastly different headphones in completely different leagues. Both have a similar character and level of refinement. To my ears neither have significant weaknesses but I do find the O2 has the edge, especially given my tastes in presentation. This is why in my opinion the need for isolation is the main factor I would use to guide a buying decision between these two.

 I can't comment at all on the R10 as I've never heard it._

 

Thanks for your impressions; it looks like only you and Carl have done some kind of meaningful comparison between the two. Isolation is not really a factor for me, since I have my own room. 

 I will now wait for Carl to chime in


----------



## spritzer

With all this talk about output voltages I put together the following list. If some amp is missing it's because I couldn't find the right specs. All voltages are RMS

*Stax*
 SRA-3s 270v
 SRA-8s 350v
 SRA-12S 350V
 SRA-14S 400V

 SRM-1 370v
 SRM-1 Mk2 370v
 SRM-3 300v
 SRM-T1 300v
 SRM-X 270v
 SRM-T1S 300v
 SRM-T1W 300v
 SRM-T2 630v
 SRM-Xh 280v

 SRM-212 280v
 SRM-252II 280v
 SRM-310 350v
 SRM-313 350v
 SRM-323II 400v
 SRM-717 450v
 SRM-727II 450v
 SRM-006t 300v
 SRM-006tII 300v
 SRM-007t 340v
 SRM-007tII 340v

*WooAudio *
 GES 420v

*Rudistor *
 Entire line of amps 250v(*)

*Headamp*
 KGSS 495v
 Blue Hawaii 565v
 Aristaeus 425v

*Sennheiser*
 HEV70 425v
 HEV90 400v

*Koss*
 E/90 600v

*Singlepower*
 ES1 w/EL34 output tubes 565v

 (*) The specs Rudistor has on his page are plainly wrong. The Standard Egmont is rated at 630v the same as the SRM-T2 with a 6SN7 output tube.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like SS, I liked all of KG's dynamic designs, the KGSS+O2 synergy has been reported on more than on e occasion from people whose ears I trust, and it is decently priced._

 

I think you'd quite like the KGBH if you listened to it. Just a suspicion. Not to say your wallet can stretch that far, but try and track down one to listen to if it can.

  Quote:


 So if anyone can give some impressions on how the 4070 stacks up to the O2, I would really appreciate it. I won't be able to get this e-stat rig until the fall, but I like to plan ahead if possible. 
 

Well, the O2 is a bit more refined but in overall quality I'd rate them as close. The 404 class of headphones is a fair way back from both of them.

 The 4070 and O2 have quite different sound signatures, so it'll depend a lot on taste. The 4070 is mellow and effectionate, yet sharp and incisive. A strange combo it may seem, but you'll understand if you hear them. There are a few closed headphone quirks there, unavoidably, but nothing I'd rate as critical. The more layered the music is, the worse they perform, the simpler the music is the better. They're gods when it comes to a capala, solo piano and Spanish guitar if you ask me. A small amount of EQ in the mids and treble helps tame their annoying qualities without harming their strengths much.

 The O2, once you sort out head placement, is a fuller, richer sounding headphone with less emphisis on the frequency extremes and more emphisis on the middle, which helps most music but gets in the way a bit with electronica and pop. You can listen passively to music through them for hours and barely notice bar the changing of CDs. On the flipside, they could be better when it comes to actively participating in the music.

 The HE60, HE90, and SR-Ω are also in the same class of super-stats so might be worth considering if you can be bothered to track them down.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With all this talk about output voltages I put together the following list. If some amp is missing it's because I couldn't find the right specs. All voltages are RMS_

 

Wow, incredible list. I didn't realise the KGBH put out so little power, I always thought those things gave over 1kVrms. Thanks for the info!

 Do you remember how much the SRA-4s, SRA-6s, SRA-7s and SRA-10s deliver?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ended up at almost 50k yen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I went into a bidding battle against someone and managed to somehow exchange bids so much that we raised the price by 15k in 15 minutes. It was horrible. I hate how YJA keeps extending the time if anyone bids within the last 5 minutes of the auction. The auction ended up extending at least 8 times. Arghhh. Gah....... *pout*

 With deputy my service's huge fees, I'm going to have spent a pretty huge penny for these Sigma Pros. Hopefully I can figure something out. Sell my PPX3 and go Stax? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try to sell the Sigma Pro and hope for a minimal loss? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I see that Spritzer is an advocate of running these from a tranformer and large power amp. This may work, but I don't like tying up an amp that way. You would need to connect your speakers to the terminals on the transformer and that is not going to be good for the speakers. 

 I have just been listening to Sigma pros through a SRM-3, amp, the precursor of the current 313 and it is pretty effective. I would pay attention to power however, since these phones are less efficient than the Lambdas with which they were later replaced with by Stax. Some fairly cheap tweaks to get more power from your amps are: 1) use an upgraded power cord; 2) plug the amp directly into the wall, rather than use a power strip for them; 3) use a contact enhancer on all plugs, pin and IC's. I have used Progold over the years but am now more impressed by Mapleshades' Silclear, a silver-based product.

 The STax 717 is significantly more powerful than the SRM-3 or 313 but also a lot more expensive. There are numerous other aftermarket amps now available.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With all this talk about output voltages I put together the following list. If some amp is missing it's because I couldn't find the right specs. All voltages are RMS_

 

spritzer,
 Great List! Thanks.

 AudioD


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The transformers in the SRD-7 have a turns ratio of 24:1 and the Lundahl transformers have a 14.4:1 turns ratio. A 300 watt (into 8 ohms) amp is developing about 50 volts across the load. Just multiply the turns ratio by the voltage and you get the output voltage to the stats. In either case the voltage is higher than any SRM made by Stax. It would be LOUD and possibbly enough to arc the stat elements (I do not know the arc voltage of the O2). The transformers would be over their watt rating and overheat also. I would think 75 to 100 watts (rated into 8 ohms) would be plenty with either trans.
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's good info, thanks! From what I hear, arcing the stat elements IS a potential concern with the OIIs. The thing about big amps is, I believe, dynamic headroom. No doubt, you could hit 300 or more watts with a sharp peak under certain conditions, but, like a high-powered auto engine, you don't HAVE TO use all the HP/potential. Most audio amplifier just sound better when they have some breathing room at the top that is rarely, if ever, tapped. 
 Anyway, the formula indicates a potential swing of well over +- 1KV, plenty, I would say. And, using the 14:1 turns ratios would seem to keep things a bit safer, while reducing system efficiency.
 Thanks!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's good info, thanks! From what I hear, arcing the stat elements IS a potential concern with the OIIs. The thing about big amps is, I believe, dynamic headroom. No doubt, you could hit 300 or more watts with a sharp peak under certain conditions, but, like a high-powered auto engine, you don't HAVE TO use all the HP/potential. Most audio amplifier just sound better when they have some breathing room at the top that is rarely, if ever, tapped. 
 Anyway, the formula indicates a potential swing of well over +- 1KV, plenty, I would say. And, using the 14:1 turns ratios would seem to keep things a bit safer, while reducing system efficiency.
 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you look at the schematic for the SRD-7 Pro it has protection on the low voltage side to protect the transformers and some on the HV side to protect the stats. They are devices that should not hurt sound quality. They should be incorporated into any new design if you plan to push the envelope.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, the O2 is a bit more refined but in overall quality I'd rate them as close. The 404 class of headphones is a fair way back from both of them.

 The 4070 and O2 have quite different sound signatures, so it'll depend a lot on taste. The 4070 is mellow and effectionate, yet sharp and incisive. A strange combo it may seem, but you'll understand if you hear them. There are a few closed headphone quirks there, unavoidably, but nothing I'd rate as critical. The more layered the music is, the worse they perform, the simpler the music is the better. They're gods when it comes to a capala, solo piano and Spanish guitar if you ask me. A small amount of EQ in the mids and treble helps tame their annoying qualities without harming their strengths much.

 The O2, once you sort out head placement, is a fuller, richer sounding headphone with less emphisis on the frequency extremes and more emphisis on the middle, which helps most music but gets in the way a bit with electronica and pop. You can listen passively to music through them for hours and barely notice bar the changing of CDs. On the flipside, they could be better when it comes to actively participating in the music._

 

That's quite a different perspective from where I was coming from focusing on different aspects and by and large I agree completely. Hopefully together they will give humanflyz a good feel for the differences between these two. The reproduction of timbre for vocals and individual instruments is very impressive on the 4070. Very clean and very real. I loved some of the Jazz I listened to on the 4070, made me wish I had more. Beautiful for double bass. I also agree that the O2s are also not a perfect fit with electronica and pop but when provided with enough voltage swing, the powerful dynamics can compensate to a certain degree, and a little EQ can take it even further. I listen to quite a bit of electronica and pop myself so it was important to me to get this right. I have found when I've got my pre-amp, amp and EQ set just right I'll even enjoy pop/electronica I wouldn't normally go near such as the [size=x-small]P[/size]ussycat Dolls album PCD.


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's quite a different perspective from where I was coming from focusing on different aspects and by and large I agree completely. Hopefully together they will give humanflyz a good feel for the differences between these two. The reproduction of timbre for vocals and individual instruments is very impressive on the 4070. Very clean and very real. I loved some of the Jazz I listened to on the 4070, made me wish I had more. Beautiful for double bass. I also agree that the O2s are also not a perfect fit with electronica and pop but when provided with enough voltage swing, the powerful dynamics can compensate to a certain degree, and a little EQ can take it even further. I listen to quite a bit of electronica and pop myself so it was important to me to get this right. I have found when I've got my pre-amp, amp and EQ set just right I'll even enjoy pop/electronica I wouldn't normally go near such as the [size=x-small]P[/size]ussycat Dolls album PCD. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You and Carl both provided some very good information, but it hasn't helped me decide lol, which is a good thing I guess: more choices. I would've been happy with an O2+KGSS combo since I've heard that combo before and like it. But you know what they say: can't leave well enough alone, just had to be curious about the 4070, which receives very very little attention. But it seems to be picking up, as I've heard from both you and Carl, Gordie, and Wmcmanus have chimed in. What piqued my curiosity was that Gordie, who is a big fan of the K1000s, likes them a lot. And Wmcmanus wrote last night that in some areas, the 4070s might even have an edge over the Orpheus.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(*) The specs Rudistor has on his page are plainly wrong. The Standard Egmont is rated at 630v the same as the SRM-T2 with a 6SN7 output tube._

 

So Rudistor's stax amp should be quite ideal to drive the O2s? But they don't seemed to be favoured. I wonder why? Their amps do look gorgeous albeit not as compared to the ES-1
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IMHO


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With all this talk about output voltages I put together the following list. If some amp is missing it's because I couldn't find the right specs. All voltages are RMS

*Stax*
 SRA-3s 270v
 SRA-8s 350v
 SRA-12S 350V
 SRA-14S 400V

 SRM-1 370v
 SRM-1 Mk2 370v
 SRM-3 300v
 SRM-T1 300v
 SRM-X 270v
 SRM-T1S 300v
 SRM-T1W 300v
 SRM-T2 630v
 SRM-Xh 280v

 SRM-212 280v
 SRM-252II 280v
 SRM-310 350v
 SRM-313 350v
 SRM-323II 400v
 SRM-717 450v
 SRM-727II 450v
 SRM-006t 300v
 SRM-006tII 300v
 SRM-007t 340v
 SRM-007tII 340v

*WooAudio *
 GES 420v

*Rudistor *
 Entire line of amps 250v(*)

*Headamp*
 KGSS 495v
 Blue Hawaii 565v
 Aristaeus 425v

*Sennheiser*
 HEV70 425v
 HEV90 400v

*Koss*
 E/90 600v

*Singlepower*
 ES1 w/EL34 output tubes 565v

 (*) The specs Rudistor has on his page are plainly wrong. The Standard Egmont is rated at 630v the same as the SRM-T2 with a 6SN7 output tube._

 

Wow,the numbers are much lower than expected. I guess that I (and possibly others) were thinking the numbers on the KGSS(700v), KGBH(800v), ES-1(800v) ,etc WERE the RMS values. Are you sure the STAX amps are truely rated with the RMS value ??


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow,the numbers are much lower than expected. I guess that I (and possibly others) were thinking the numbers on the KGSS(700v), KGBH(800v), ES-1(800v) ,etc WERE the RMS values. Are you sure the STAX amps are truely rated with the RMS value ??_

 

For me there's one of those lines that stands out especially...
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_SRM-T2 630v_


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You and Carl both provided some very good information, but it hasn't helped me decide lol, which is a good thing I guess: more choices. I would've been happy with an O2+KGSS combo since I've heard that combo before and like it. But you know what they say: can't leave well enough alone, just had to be curious about the 4070, which receives very very little attention. But it seems to be picking up, as I've heard from both you and Carl, Gordie, and Wmcmanus have chimed in. What piqued my curiosity was that Gordie, who is a big fan of the K1000s, likes them a lot. And Wmcmanus wrote last night that in some areas, the 4070s might even have an edge over the Orpheus._

 

I definitely think the 4070 deserves more attention than it gets. I bought the O2 without even hearing it once since in this part of the world there seems to be few ways to audition anything in that league. I was convinced from everything I read (and my experiences with the HE60, SR-003 and SR-X Mk3) that I'd like them and thankfully they exceeded my expectations. With the 4070 being generally more scarce worldwide I think many more people are in the same position as I was with the O2 of having to take the risk of buying the 4070s without an audition. Personally I do think they're worth a try, especially for those who like electrostatics. I do hope a few more take the chance on them, I think they may be pleasantly surprised.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, incredible list. I didn't realise the KGBH put out so little power, I always thought those things gave over 1kVrms. Thanks for the info!

 Do you remember how much the SRA-4s, SRA-6s, SRA-7s and SRA-10s deliver?_

 

It can deliver 1060v but the 600v or so volts is the nominal figure but I'm not sure. It isn't clear with some amps if it is peak power or nominal so I put in the lower figure. 

 All of the older integrated amps have a similar output voltage but where I couldn't find a definitive number I left it out. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see that Spritzer is an advocate of running these from a tranformer and large power amp. This may work, but I don't like tying up an amp that way. You would need to connect your speakers to the terminals on the transformer and that is not going to be good for the speakers. 

 I have just been listening to Sigma pros through a SRM-3, amp, the precursor of the current 313 and it is pretty effective. I would pay attention to power however, since these phones are less efficient than the Lambdas with which they were later replaced with by Stax. Some fairly cheap tweaks to get more power from your amps are: 1) use an upgraded power cord; 2) plug the amp directly into the wall, rather than use a power strip for them; 3) use a contact enhancer on all plugs, pin and IC's. I have used Progold over the years but am more now impressed by Mapleshades' Silclear, a silver-based product.

 The STax 717 is significantly more powerful than the SRM-3 or 313 but also a lot more expensive. There are numerous other aftermarket amps now available._

 

I'm not advocating the transformers as a reference amp but if you are on a budget and you have some hard too drive phones this is the way to go. I've here on hand the 313, T1 and the Blue Hawaii and only the Blue Hawaii can drive the Sigmas to reach their full potential. The transformers can wake them up much more then either of the Stax amps can. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So Rudistor's stax amp should be quite ideal to drive the O2s? But they don't seemed to be favoured. I wonder why? Their amps do look gorgeous albeit not as compared to the ES-1
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IMHO_

 

For me it is a bad design and they are cheaply built. The cases he uses for his reference amps are the same ones I used for the KGSS amps I built back in the day and they are the worst I've ever come accross. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow,the numbers are much lower than expected. I guess that I (and possibly others) were thinking the numbers on the KGSS(700v), KGBH(800v), ES-1(800v) ,etc WERE the RMS values. Are you sure the STAX amps are truely rated with the RMS value ??_

 

There is nominal output and there is peak output. It isn't always clear which is which but I thought it would be great to asemble a single list so we can finally get this straight. 

 Stax uses RMS for their amps and it is peak power at 1Khz


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ This is why in my opinion the need for isolation is the main factor I would use to guide a buying decision between these two._

 

Thanks for your detailed comparison. Could you comment on the differences in
 comfort. Pressure on the ears etc.. ?

 Kind regards

 Tom


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your detailed comparison. Could you comment on the differences in
 comfort. Pressure on the ears etc.. ?

 Kind regards

 Tom_

 

Both of them go around the ears so there is no pressure on the ears themselves. To me the O2s with their rotating pads and headband are very comfortable. Being able to rotate the cables out of the way no matter how you're sitting is nice too. The main complaint people seem to have with the O2s is the heat but personally I don't find this to be an issue. The 4070s headband design is very similar to the O2s but of course the pad design is substantially different. The main difference to me is that the 4070 driver housing is quite weighty and long but I feel the headband does a good job of spreading the weight as best it can. It also gets quite warm around the ears although not quite as much as the O2s which form more of a closed seal around your ear. I find both comfortable for long term wear. The only things with the 4070 that bothered me at all were related to the long weighty driver housing. I'm just average build, 5'7" and the cables coming out the bottom were just a little above the shoulder which could make sitting with them awkward in some postitions. When I tried to lie back with them gravity would try to pull them off my ears.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your detailed comparison. Could you comment on the differences in
 comfort. Pressure on the ears etc.. ?

 Kind regards

 Tom_

 

The 4070 is a heavy headphone but has nothing on the torture devices made back in the 60s and 70s. The O2 is what you'd expect from a modern open-circumaural headphone; comfortable.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 is a heavy headphone but has nothing on the torture devices made back in the 60s and 70s. The O2 is what you'd expect from a modern open-circumaural headphone; comfortable._

 

My O2s are very comfy. My ears get slightly warm, but not a problem. The Lambdas are slightly more comfortable to me. Haven't tried the 4070s yet, but still remember my first decent pair of headphones - Koss Pro-4AA I bought back in the early seventies. They really weren't too bad for their time, with liquid-filled cushions that really sealed out sound well.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Sorry if this question has already been addressed, but has any consensus been reached regarding the issue of Stax playing music off the head?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this question has already been addressed, but has any consensus been reached regarding the issue of Stax playing music off the head?_

 

I don't see any reason why they shouldn't be fine. The mylar won't stretch because it has more air to move. Mylar is extremely tough material and there isn't enough force inside the driver to do any damage. I've put a force equal to 4kg weights hanging off a piece of mylar in all directions and the drivers are still going strong after two years even though they are a bit light in the bass... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In the Sigma manual Stax suggested that they could be used as mini speakers when mounted on their stand and playing against a wall.


----------



## smeggy

I just saw a 313 in ebay.de using one of my pics. Damn nice photo though, captures my deckchair leg wonderfully


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The main difference to me is that the 4070 driver housing is quite weighty and long but I feel the headband does a good job of spreading the weight as best it can. It also gets quite warm around the ears although not quite as much as the O2s which form more of a closed seal around your ear. I find both comfortable for long term wear._

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I am using O2s, but find them less comfortable than than my previous Lambdas. I am very satisfied with the audio quality from the O2s and guess that I won´t find better (but different) audio quality from the 4070s and also a different (but nor better) wearing comfort.

 Kind regards

 Tom


----------



## jigster

Sanders ESL Amp
http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/ESL%20Amplifier.htm

 Wonder if using this via the energiser would be good.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sanders ESL Amp
http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/ESL%20Amplifier.htm

 Wonder if using this via the energiser would be good._

 


 Sounds like a great amp for driving Martin-Logan CLS's or Sound Lab A-1's, but a bit much for driving headphones. Sometimes when you use a amp at a small fraction of it's potential (relating more to solid state amps) you are not getting the best performance from the amp. I have not heard these amps so this is just a educated guess. I have read many articles by Roger Sanders over the years on electrostatic loudspeaker design. He does know what he is doing. I don't think he had driving electrostatic headphones in mind when he designed these amps. Maybe we should contact him and ask for a dedicated electrostatic headphone amp!

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

50V/ms seems a little on the slow side for electrostats.


----------



## Carl

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f56245095


----------



## Duggeh

^ egads a slope filter switch. QUADtastic.

 You just won that then Carl?


----------



## ferrstein

Hello, just wanted to give a quick update on the scary Ebay auction I had with the SRD7 Pro (Ebay canceled the fellow's user account after I pad for the unit). Well, it showed up, but it had a bit of shipping damage due to a loose transformer (the bolt was missing):












 Basically the speaker/earspeaker switch got totaled. I didn't realize until I looked at it that this switch actually switches AC voltage to the input of the bias supply while also switching between the speaker outputs and the input to the transformers.

 Oh well, I say... no better time than now to bypass that switch altogether! I also hooked the AC input directly to the bias card. Now when I plug it in the bias circuit works right away:






*Question:* Does anyone know the best way to measure the bias output? I checked with a multimeter set to DC voltage and got 385 volts out of the bias board. I know the DMM pulls the bias signal down quite a bit... and since 385 is at least higher than the low bias spec, I figured I must be close to okay. The bias circuit on the SRD7 Pro doesn't use a transformer, but a voltage multiplier. I guess perhaps if I look at a schematic (I don't have one at the moment) I could see what value the output resistor is and figure out the effects of my 10k multimeter. Anyway, if someone has any guidance they can provide here I would greatly appreciate it.

 Oh, and the sound? *Excellent!!* I gotta say I wasn't expecting to like this thing as much as I did... especially considering I used a neglected old Moscode 300 to drive it. I just felt the music more than I do with the SRM1 MK II. More dynamics, more presence, more musical. All I can say is... wow! I listened to quite a few CDs last night with it and it is just really good sounding. 

 I may look for a more appropriate amplifier now. What have you guys had good experience with? Tubes? I'd like to find a nice tube integrated to use. I have used the Moscode to drive transformer-coupled Acoustats in the past... and it is very good in that situation. Maybe that isn't such a bad amp for the SRD7 after all. It's just a bit noisy to have in a headphone system. Those have just a touch of background hiss and the power transformer is physically noisy, which is a problem with open-backed headphones.

 Happy Listening!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f56245095




_

 

I was going to bid on that but backed out. Congrats Carl.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Question:* Does anyone know the best way to measure the bias output? I checked with a multimeter set to DC voltage and got 385 volts out of the bias board. I know the DMM pulls the bias signal down quite a bit... and since 385 is at least higher than the low bias spec, I figured I must be close to okay. The bias circuit on the SRD7 Pro doesn't use a transformer, but a voltage multiplier. I guess perhaps if I look at a schematic (I don't have one at the moment) I could see what value the output resistor is and figure out the effects of my 10k multimeter. Anyway, if someone has any guidance they can provide here I would greatly appreciate it._

 

If you measure after the output resistor you get a wrong reading. The output resistor is there just to limit all current the the headphones should short out. Put one probe on the input lead of the output resistor and the other at the beginning of the voltage multiplier and you should get +550-580v DC.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you measure after the output resistor you get a wrong reading. The output resistor is there just to limit all current the the headphones should short out. Put one probe on the input lead of the output resistor and the other at the beginning of the voltage multiplier and you should get +550-580v DC._

 

Cool. I knew I was doing something wrong!

 I'm actually thinking of populating the circuit board with components to create a normal bias output as well... making this unit an SRD7 MKII. I want to do this because I REALLY want to hear my low bias Sigmas on this thing. Based on what I heard with my Lambda Pro's, I'm thinking Sigmas and an SRD7 may be close to sonic euphoria!

 Does anyone have a schematic for an SRD7 MKII? The circuit board looks as though it isn't missing much to create a normal bias output:


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have a schematic for an SRD7 MKII? The circuit board looks as though it isn't missing much to create a normal bias output:_

 

It's been posted a few times here at Head-Fi. Do a search and you should be able to find it. I've got a pdf at home, if you have trouble finding it PM me and I'll send something to you when I get home tonight.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Question:* Does anyone know the best way to measure the bias output? I checked with a multimeter set to DC voltage and got 385 volts out of the bias board. I know the DMM pulls the bias signal down quite a bit... and since 385 is at least higher than the low bias spec, I figured I must be close to okay. The bias circuit on the SRD7 Pro doesn't use a transformer, but a voltage multiplier. I guess perhaps if I look at a schematic (I don't have one at the moment) I could see what value the output resistor is and figure out the effects of my 10k multimeter. Anyway, if someone has any guidance they can provide here I would greatly appreciate it.

 !_

 

If your multimeter (probably digital) has a standard 1 megohm input impedence all you need is a 1000:1 High Voltage probe. B&K makes one for about $50.00.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. I knew I was doing something wrong!

 I'm actually thinking of populating the circuit board with components to create a normal bias output as well... making this unit an SRD7 MKII. I want to do this because I REALLY want to hear my low bias Sigmas on this thing. Based on what I heard with my Lambda Pro's, I'm thinking Sigmas and an SRD7 may be close to sonic euphoria!

 Does anyone have a schematic for an SRD7 MKII? The circuit board looks as though it isn't missing much to create a normal bias output:









_

 

I would let this board be as it is and make a new one for the low bias. For 117v AC you only need a simple voltage double i.e. 2 1N400x diodes and 2 0.1uF 300v caps and some resistors. Here is how Stax did it with their OEM stats 






 The Pro bias unit is basically the same but it uses zeners so it is universal and more voltage multipliers. 

 Here is the bias circuit for the Beyer ET1000. It uses 91v zener's that are then doubled for a 180v bias. 





 There is a larger one here


----------



## ferrstein

I just had a thought... since I like my ED1 Diffuse Equalizer some of the time, I wonder if I would like it with the SRD7? Has anyone tried this?

 I'm thinking it could go into either a processor loop in the preamp or just insert it en route from the source component to whatever amplifier is driving the SRD7. I wonder what that would sound like?

 This is what I like about old Stax gear... the possibilities are endless!

 BTW, sorry about the off-topic post. My ADD is getting the best of me today. Oh, and did I mention I'm really liking this SRD7?


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would let this board be as it is and make a new one for the low bias. For 117v AC you only need a simple voltage double i.e. 2 1N400x diodes and 2 0.1uF 300v caps and some resistors. Here is how Stax did it with their OEM stats 






 The Pro bias unit is basically the same but it uses zeners so it is universal and more voltage multipliers. 

 Here is the bias circuit for the Beyer ET1000. It uses 91v zener's that are then doubled for a 180v bias. 





 There is a larger one here_

 

Thanks, Spritzer... that looks easy enough! I may even be able to put those components inside the SRD7 chassis since they wouldn't take up much space. Hell, I could put them in place of the busted switch that I bypassed!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Coo, I wish I could see that it was this easy the other way round, i.e., to convert one of my SRD-7's (normal) outputs to Pro! I know I asked about this earlier, but there's a bit more I need... 

 ...something between the afore-mentioned SRD-7 circuit board diagrams (which I'm afraid I cannot readily interpret) and myself buying an SRD-7 Mk 2/Pro!

 Is there an idiot's guide anywhere, or at least a reference to symbols used in circuit diagrams?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just had a thought... since I like my ED1 Diffuse Equalizer some of the time, I wonder if I would like it with the SRD7? Has anyone tried this?

 I'm thinking it could go into either a processor loop in the preamp or just insert it en route from the source component to whatever amplifier is driving the SRD7. I wonder what that would sound like?

 This is what I like about old Stax gear... the possibilities are endless!

 BTW, sorry about the off-topic post. My ADD is getting the best of me today. Oh, and did I mention I'm really liking this SRD7?_

 

You could put it after the source or on the tape loop and it will work exactly like if you were using direct drive amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Spritzer... that looks easy enough! I may even be able to put those components inside the SRD7 chassis since they wouldn't take up much space. Hell, I could put them in place of the busted switch that I bypassed!_

 

It will fit on a 1" by 2" board and you can go a lot smaller if you have the resistors stand vertically. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coo, I wish I could see that it was this easy the other way round, i.e., to convert one of my SRD-7's (normal) outputs to Pro! I know I asked about this earlier, but there's a bit more I need... 

 ...something between the afore-mentioned SRD-7 circuit board diagrams (which I'm afraid I cannot readily interpret) and myself buying an SRD-7 Mk 2/Pro!

 Is there an idiot's guide anywhere, or at least a reference to symbols used in circuit diagrams?_

 

Just google electronic symbols and that should held you along. A good text book is also a great guide and a resource for the future and you can always ask us. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Take care though that while these things are simple enough they are not by a long shot a beginners project. High voltages can kill or hurt you badly and it's generally not a whole lot of fun to get zapped in the fingers.


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Interesting. Ferrstein, could you post some higher-res shots of the top and bottom of the bias supply? I'd like to replicate it in a pcb layout.

 Thrice, if you could post a screenshot or something of the SRD-7 mkII schematic, that would be great. As far as I know, only the SRD-7 Pro and the regular low bias SRD-7 schematics have been posted so far.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Ferrstein, could you post some higher-res shots of the top and bottom of the bias supply? I'd like to replicate it in a pcb layout.

 Thrice, if you could post a screenshot or something of the SRD-7 mkII schematic, that would be great. As far as I know, only the SRD-7 Pro and the regular low bias SRD-7 schematics have been posted so far._

 

I can certainly post some high res pics of the boards. I'll try to get them up this evening. I may not be able to get the component side much better than I already have (the wires are attached and aren't very flexible), but I can get a nice square-on shot of the back side which shows the traces.

 Yes, I have also only found the SRD7 Pro and SRD7 schematics, so Thrice if you have an actual SRD7 MKII schematic, that would be awesome!


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't see any reason why they shouldn't be fine. The mylar won't stretch because it has more air to move. Mylar is extremely tough material and there isn't enough force inside the driver to do any damage. I've put a force equal to 4kg weights hanging off a piece of mylar in all directions and the drivers are still going strong after two years even though they are a bit light in the bass... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In the Sigma manual Stax suggested that they could be used as mini speakers when mounted on their stand and playing against a wall._

 

Thanks a lot. I was asking because my 303's seem to sound significantly better after playing some music (about 30-45 min. I think), even if they were connected to the amp turned on a few hours before. At first they sound somewhat lacklustre and boring and only after a while all the details start to integrate together nicely and the sound seems to gain some brilliance and some, I don't know how to say, the equivalent of the depth of an engraving - as opposed to the initial "shallow" sound.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ egads a slope filter switch. QUADtastic.

 You just won that then Carl?_

 

I did. That baby is from 1966. The plan is to mod it until it sounds good by modern standards, but it ain't gonna be cheap. Still, it's suitably rare and heteroclite.


 Anyone have any suggestions for audio modders worthy of such a project?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to bid on that but backed out. Congrats Carl._

 

That would have made for an epic bidding war, especially considering how high my max bid was. I've been hunting one of Stax's all-tube amps for months now and this is the first one I've seen.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm actually thinking of populating the circuit board with components to create a normal bias output as well... making this unit an SRD7 MKII._

 

The SRD-7 Pro uses a voltage doubling ladder. If you check the voltage at each diode in the ladder the voltage will go down as you go down the ladder. You can probably find a voltage close to 230 for the low bias. All you need to do is switch the wire from the last diode to the diode further down the ladder.

 Audiod


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did. That baby is from 1966. The plan is to mod it until it sounds good by modern standards, but it ain't gonna be cheap. Still, it's suitably rare and heteroclite.


 Anyone have any suggestions for audio modders worthy of such a project?



 That would have made for an epic bidding war, especially considering how high my max bid was. I've been hunting one of Stax's all-tube amps for months now and this is the first one I've seen._

 

We would have ripped out each others throats in that bidding war 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I bowed out for the simple reason that I'm always more interested in the phones them selves rather then the amps driving them so it should go to a better home. 

 As modders go RAM are supposed to be very good but some of their stuff is a bit out there. On the other hand they've got the main points right, paper in oil caps, silver transformers and cotton covered silver wire.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Ferrstein, could you post some higher-res shots of the top and bottom of the bias supply? I'd like to replicate it in a pcb layout._

 

The best I could do with my crappy camera is this shot:






 If you want to see higher res photos of both the front and back, check here:

http://www.servodrivenacoustats.com/SRD7CBRear.jpg

http://www.servodrivenacoustats.com/SRD7CBFront.jpg

http://www.servodrivenacoustats.com/SRD7CBFrontb.jpg

 I hope this gives you some idea what you need to do. It is actually a quite simple circuit board.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I had a quick question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 J-Pak advised me in a separate thread to reserve judgment on the Sigma Pros until I heard them out of a Pro Energizer. I didn't want to hijack that thread, so I guess I'll ask my newbie question here. Sorry about that J-Pak. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What exactly is meant by the term pro bias? I thought that a "pro" jack was basically a pro bias output. Does pro bias refer to a large voltage and not the jack type? (400 V+ for example)

 Thanks so much!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a quick question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 J-Pak advised me in a separate thread to reserve judgment on the Sigma Pros until I heard them out of a Pro Energizer. I didn't want to hijack that thread, so I guess I'll ask my newbie question here. Sorry about that J-Pak. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What exactly is meant by the term pro bias? I thought that a "pro" jack was basically a pro bias output. Does pro bias refer to a large voltage and not the jack type? (400 V+ for example)

 Thanks so much!_

 

He simply meant that if you're going to go the transformer box route, don't use a low bias (230v) transformer box to drive them as the Sigma Pros are pro bias (580v) headphones.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a quick question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 J-Pak advised me in a separate thread to reserve judgment on the Sigma Pros until I heard them out of a Pro Energizer. I didn't want to hijack that thread, so I guess I'll ask my newbie question here. Sorry about that J-Pak. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What exactly is meant by the term pro bias? I thought that a "pro" jack was basically a pro bias output. Does pro bias refer to a large voltage and not the jack type? (400 V+ for example)

 Thanks so much!_

 

Pro bias means the amp/energizer will provide something close to 580VDC that is transferred to the diaphragm of the headphones. Any Pro output (5-pins only, not six) will provide that. A normal bias output (6-pin) will only provide 230V and that is not enough to adequately drive something like Sigma Pros. Of course the amplification of the sound signal is another matter entirely, clearly not all amps or energizers are created equal and the voltage swing on the signal lines can vary significantly between them without any relation to the bias voltage.

 Since J-Pak especially mentioned a Pro energizer though, he may be referring to a transfomer box only such as a SRD-7 Pro, SRD-7 Mk2 or Illusion ESC-1001.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Ah, I see. Thanks for the help everyone!


----------



## Carl

I'm guessing that this is the SRA-7S's output stage






 In fact, the seem to have circuit diagrams and scope readings for several electrostatic headphone amps including the KGSS.

http://wiki.livedoor.jp/funya2420/d/SRA-7S


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks a lot. I was asking because my 303's seem to sound significantly better after playing some music (about 30-45 min. I think), even if they were connected to the amp turned on a few hours before. At first they sound somewhat lacklustre and boring and only after a while all the details start to integrate together nicely and the sound seems to gain some brilliance and some, I don't know how to say, the equivalent of the depth of an engraving - as opposed to the initial "shallow" sound._

 

Sounds true of both my Stax gear (Sigmas, Lambda Nova, 404, SR001) and my Koss ESP 950. I assume that it takes a while for the stators and diaphragm to get fully charged even though the amp may have been on. Also, for the Lambda at least, the ears pads get warmed up and a bit sweaty and seal better around the ear.

 It is of course possible that the rest of the equipment is undergoing similar warm-ups.


----------



## audiod

After looking at the SRD-7 Pro schematic and looking at the circuit board pictures (courtesy of ferrstein) that shows parts missing (probably were used in the mkII) I drew a schematic that should be the bias supply for the SRD-7mkII with both Low and High bias voltages. I don't know the value of R103 but it should be the same as R104. Z101 is a BiDirectional Zener diode with a breakdown voltage of 90-110 volts. D101 to D106 are 1 amp, 400 volt Silicon diodes. 
 I am working on a parts layout now.

 AudioD






 If I tap off the rungs of the voltage doubling ladder in the SRD-7 Pro bias supply I could have 5 different bias voltages from 230 to 580. I would replace the front panel switch with a 5 position switch. Now I could use my SRX’s and SR-5’s with a bias boost without going all the way to 580. Cool!


----------



## Carl

Shouldn't the HV supply be 580v, not 480v?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shouldn't the HV supply be 580v, not 480v?_

 

Carl,
 Oops... Typo. Fixed.
 Thanks,
 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


 After looking at the SRD-7 Pro schematic and looking at the circuit board pictures (courtesy of ferrstein) that shows parts missing (probably were used in the mkII) I drew a schematic that should be the bias supply for the SRD-7mkII with both Low and High bias voltages. I don't know the value of R103 but it should be the same as R104. Z101 is a BiDirectional Zener diode with a breakdown voltage of 90-110 volts. D101 to D106 are 1 amp, 400 volt Silicon diodes. 
 I am working on a parts layout now. 
 

When I get a spare moment I'll open up my SRD-7 Mk2 and take a look at the parts values. (Photos when I get my camera back too). The photos ferrstein posted look a lot more readable than my SRD-7 so hopefully the Mk2 will be nice to follow too.

 One thing I notice in that circuit is the center tap which I assume is there for the purpose of creating a ground reference shared between the bias supply and the audio signal. In my SRD-7 Mk2 I get some 50Hz mains hum that is quite noticeable with my SR-X Mk3 (The O2s don't seem to be efficient enough for it to be very noticeble). There is no direct connection to the ground in the mains plug, it's only got two prongs. Considering these center taps are the only place the audio and bias signals interact I'm assuming that the hum is creeping into the signal through here. Is there a way I can minimise this? Perhaps running a line from the mains ground to this spot (i.e. on the center tap PCB traces) in the circuit to actually make it a true reference to ground?

 On another semi-related note, I am planning to build my own custom transformer box along the lines of Andrea Ciuffoli's circuit but with a substantially higher ratio for the two signal transformers so it can be used with lower power amplifiers (under 10W). Now having more turns will increase the capacitance. I'm wondering if this will have any effect other than reduced high frequency performance? I'm thinking that as long as the transformer can maintain good performance (under +/- 1db) to near 25Khz or better this is not a concern. If it was a problem it would seem I'd have to scrap the idea and settle for a lower ratio.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello, just wanted to give a quick update on the scary Ebay auction I had with the SRD7 Pro (Ebay canceled the fellow's user account after I pad for the unit). Well, it showed up, but it had a bit of shipping damage due to a loose transformer (the bolt was missing)_

 

Great to see that the SRD-7 Pro showed up! Even if it was partly broken...

 But if you did not intend to use the speaker/earspeaker switch anyway, it might not have been to bad. Since bypassing the switch can only lead to positive results sound wise.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing I notice in that circuit is the center tap which I assume is there for the purpose of creating a ground reference shared between the bias supply and the audio signal. In my SRD-7 Mk2 I get some 50Hz mains hum that is quite noticeable with my SR-X Mk3 (The O2s don't seem to be efficient enough for it to be very noticeble). There is no direct connection to the ground in the mains plug, it's only got two prongs. Considering these center taps are the only place the audio and bias signals interact I'm assuming that the hum is creeping into the signal through here. Is there a way I can minimise this? Perhaps running a line from the mains ground to this spot (i.e. on the center tap PCB traces) in the circuit to actually make it a true reference to ground?

 On another semi-related note, I am planning to build my own custom transformer box along the lines of Andrea Ciuffoli's circuit but with a substantially higher ratio for the two signal transformers so it can be used with lower power amplifiers (under 10W). Now having more turns will increase the capacitance. I'm wondering if this will have any effect other than reduced high frequency performance? I'm thinking that as long as the transformer can maintain good performance (under +/- 1db) to near 25Khz or better this is not a concern. If it was a problem it would seem I'd have to scrap the idea and settle for a lower ratio._

 

The CT point is connected to the Center Tap of each of the step up transformer secondaries (high voltage side). This will put the bias voltage in the middle of the of the AC signal from the secondaries. THE CT POINT IS NOT TO BE USED AS A GROUND! 

 The SRD-7 Pro does not use a transformer in the bias supply and is not isolated from the AC line. It also does not use a common ground. The primary and secondary of the step-up transformer and bias supply are floating to ground. While listening to the headphones (but no music playing) quickly unplug the unit from the AC outlet and see if the hum goes away. If it does you may want to try a few ideas: Try putting a ground connection to the chassis (metal box). Try the polarity of the AC plug. Try a isolation transformer on the AC line. If all this fails there may be a problem with the SRD-7 Pro.

 If you get or custom order a transformer a 24:1 turns ratio (like Stax uses) is getting close to the limit. When the turns ratio gets to high it starts to degrade performance. One other way to get higher voltages is to use two transformers in tandem. Parallel the primaries and series the secondaries. That’s what Quad, Martin-Logan and Audiostatic do.

 Hope this helps,

 AudioD


----------



## milkpowder

There's a _very_ nice pair of something on eBay.xx.xx atm... Happy hunting!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a very nice pair of something on eBay.xx.xx atm... Happy hunting!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Seems like a scam to me!
 1. The seller have 0 (zero) feedback.
 2. He use pictures taken from an older eBay auction.

 The one on eBay.xxx is for real though.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The CT point is connected to the Center Tap of each of the step up transformer secondaries (high voltage side). This will put the bias voltage in the middle of the of the AC signal from the secondaries. THE CT POINT IS NOT TO BE USED AS A GROUND! 

 The SRD-7 Pro does not use a transformer in the bias supply and is not isolated from the AC line. It also does not use a common ground. The primary and secondary of the step-up transformer and bias supply are floating to ground. While listening to the headphones (but no music playing) quickly unplug the unit from the AC outlet and see if the hum goes away. If it does you may want to try a few ideas: Try putting a ground connection to the chassis (metal box). Try the polarity of the AC plug. Try a isolation transformer on the AC line. If all this fails there may be a problem with the SRD-7 Pro.

 If you get or custom order a transformer a 24:1 turns ratio (like Stax uses) is getting close to the limit. When the turns ratio gets to high it starts to degrade performance. One other way to get higher voltages is to use two transformers in tandem. Parallel the primaries and series the secondaries. That’s what Quad, Martin-Logan and Audiostatic do.

 Hope this helps,

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah, thanks for the information. When I think more about your comments on the center tap too it makes sense given the nature of electrostatics. I'll definitely give those other suggestions a try too to try and eliminate that hum. It's not really a problem with the O2s but with the SR-X I find my passive SRD-6 has a much lower noise floor.

 In terms of the transformer ratios, I was looking at something like these although of course they would require the use of very low powered amps and/or over voltage protection for the headphones since I'm sure a 100W amp on a 100:1 ratio generating 2000V would fry electrostatic headphones instantly. I'm thinking of a much lower power amp near 4W max which even in the case at a 100:1 ratio you'd end up with about 630Vrms maximum. But yes, the quality of the sound at such extreme ratios is a concern as well. The idea of transformers in tandem is an interesting way around the problem. I can see I need to do more homework.


----------



## derekbmn

What is the turns ratio on the Illusion transformer ??


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know the value of R103 but it should be the same as R104._

 

Just to confirm, I opened up my SRD-7 Mk2. R103 is red, red, green, gold or 2.2Mohm if I remember my resistor codes correctly which makes it the same as R104 as you expected.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems like a scam to me!
 1. The seller have 0 (zero) feedback.
 2. He use pictures taken from an older eBay auction.

 The one on eBay.xxx is for real though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The British one has stolen text, which is pretty much a dead giveaway.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the turns ratio on the Illusion transformer ??_

 

They're potted, I wouldn't be able to find out. Probably close to the Stax one as the volume appears close.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While listening to the headphones (but no music playing) quickly unplug the unit from the AC outlet and see if the hum goes away. If it does you may want to try a few ideas: Try putting a ground connection to the chassis (metal box)._

 

This worked for me. I had been using the original two wire Japanese mains connecter through one of those international mains travel adaptors. I replaced this completely with a local three wire power cable connecting the new ground wire to the chassis. The hum is gone. No need for the travel adaptor any more either.


----------



## Veniogenesis

For those who have heard the original normal bias Lambda and the Sigma Pro, how would you characterize each in regards to each other? I just want to get a feeling of what I should be expecting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers and thanks so much!
 Venio

 Soon to be seduced by Stax, I'm sure.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those who have heard the original normal bias Lambda and the Sigma Pro, how would you characterize each in regards to each other? I just want to get a feeling of what I should be expecting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers and thanks so much!
 Venio

 Soon to be seduced by Stax, I'm sure. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The only one with both is Spritzer. I'd imagine the SP is quite a bit better based on personal experiences.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only one with both is Spritzer. I'd imagine the SP is quite a bit better based on personal experiences._

 

Thanks Carl. I'll try contacting Spritzer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, which dynamic cans have you owned before? Surely you've owned dynamic rigs in the past? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Haha, I need to talk to people who can tell me how the Sigma Pro compares with traditional dynamic cans since I'm expecting a 4 or 5 week wait before I actually get a chance to hear the Sigma Pro. I'm probably comparing apples and oranges though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Carl. I'll try contacting Spritzer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, which dynamic cans have you owned before? Surely you've owned dynamic rigs in the past? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Haha, I need to talk to people who can tell me how the Sigma Pro compares with traditional dynamic cans since I'm expecting a 4 or 5 week wait before I actually get a chance to hear the Sigma Pro. I'm probably comparing apples and oranges though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

I've heard and owned a good number of dynamic headphones (and speakers for that matter). I almost always find them to be the weak link in the musical chain, thus my preference for planar types. The last expensive one I had was the W5000, which I didn't really like.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In terms of the transformer ratios, I was looking at something like these although of course they would require the use of very low powered amps and/or over voltage protection for the headphones since I'm sure a 100W amp on a 100:1 ratio generating 2000V would fry electrostatic headphones instantly. I'm thinking of a much lower power amp near 4W max which even in the case at a 100:1 ratio you'd end up with about 630Vrms maximum. But yes, the quality of the sound at such extreme ratios is a concern as well. The idea of transformers in tandem is an interesting way around the problem. I can see I need to do more homework. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A 100:1 turns ratio is a lot of voltage gain to drive the phones with. Your system would have to be extremely quiet. All noise and hum will receive the same voltage gain. You would also need to be careful of any loud pops or clicks that might give a voltage spike that could arc the elements in the phones. I would contact Sowter and see if they have any experience with electrostatic headphones.

 AudioD


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're potted, I wouldn't be able to find out. Probably close to the Stax one as the volume appears close._

 

Measure voltage in:voltage out.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only one with both is Spritzer. I'd imagine the SP is quite a bit better based on personal experiences._

 

I think of the low bias Lambda's as the Quad ESL-57 of headphones. Their a little light at extremes and aren’t as dynamic but WHAT a midrange. For low level listening of Jazz vocals their great (driven by my SRA-12s). To me the Sigma Pro's are a different animal altogether and hard to compare with conventional electrostatic headphones. Some people love them some people don't.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A 100:1 turns ratio is a lot of voltage gain to drive the phones with. Your system would have to be extremely quiet. All noise and hum will receive the same voltage gain. You would also need to be careful of any loud pops or clicks that might give a voltage spike that could arc the elements in the phones. I would contact Sowter and see if they have any experience with electrostatic headphones.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Ah, that's good advice. It could well be that my idea is completely harebrained. I certainly wouldn't risk such things without having some kind of over voltage protection in place. It may be that such a setup would need a specially designed amp with a very low noise floor, etc, but then why not just design a direct drive amp? Perhaps it is just too risky and I should go for a more sensible ratio and aim at higher power amplifiers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those who have heard the original normal bias Lambda and the Sigma Pro, how would you characterize each in regards to each other? I just want to get a feeling of what I should be expecting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers and thanks so much!
 Venio

 Soon to be seduced by Stax, I'm sure. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Somebody called for me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Sigma Pro and the SR-Lambda are very different phones. The Sigma is like the SR-007, laid back and relaxed while the Lambda is more upfront and it is BRIGHT!!! The Sigmas top end is rolled off and they are a power hog while the Lambda runs on anything. The Sigma Pro's are on the whole a better phone but whether they worth the extra money, I don't know. All I know is that I would take either of these phones over the He90 any day and I do. They aren't better but they are more fun and their flaws don't irritate me. 

 I can only compare them to my HD600 and any electrostatic headphone eats them for dinner with musical involvement and thats what matters to me. The HD600 simply bores me to death but they are fine for computer games.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Haha Spritzer, thanks for the response. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've heard the OII, so I have a general idea of what it sounds like. (And I loooooove it.) If the Sigma Pro is anywhere close to sounding like the OII, I'm thinking I'm going to love it too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One thing I noticed about the OII was it's bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've always been told that Stax headphones are lacking in bass, but since the only Stax headphone I've heard was the OII, I had no idea what they were talking about. So how is the bass of the Sigma Pro how does it compare to that of the Lambda?

 You also mentioned that the highs are a little bit rolled off. I'm somewhat of a bright-liking person, so I question regarding this. Can you comment what the treble roll off is like (or perhaps, darkness/brightness characteristics would be easier to explicate), say in comparison with the HD600.

 Cheers and thanks again,
 Venio


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha Spritzer, thanks for the response. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've heard the OII, so I have a general idea of what it sounds like. (And I loooooove it.) If the Sigma Pro is anywhere close to sounding like the OII, I'm thinking I'm going to love it too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One thing I noticed about the OII was it's bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've always been told that Stax headphones are lacking in bass, but since the only Stax headphone I've heard was the OII, I had no idea what they were talking about. So how is the bass of the Sigma Pro how does it compare to that of the Lambda?

 You also mentioned that the highs are a little bit rolled off. I'm somewhat of a bright-liking person, so I question regarding this. Can you comment what the treble roll off is like (or perhaps, darkness/brightness characteristics would be easier to explicate), say in comparison with the HD600.

 Cheers and thanks again,
 Venio_

 

The O2's bass is nothing like any other stat. It's so clear and direct that it makes the Lambdas sound boomy. The Sigmas have a pronounced midbass hump because of the enclosure but it's only apparent in direct comparison same as the rolled off top end. Most electrostats have a rolled off top end or it appears to be rolled off in comparison with their dynamic counterparts but it is actually very extended but it doesn't draw attention to itself. This makes lesser recordings easier to listen to but when the sound is supposed to be bright it is. The HD600 is simply veiled and clouded with that horrible Sennheiser diffused image that ruins them for me. 

 I've spent the last two weeks experimenting with the diaphragms in my Micro Seiki MS-2 stats and I've hit gold. This is a very odd design with a 4 pin plug and a diaphragm made out of the same material as plastic bags. They don't last as long as mylar does and they were broken in my set when I got them. I've been experimenting with coating, mylar thickness and the diaphragm tensioning. With a 3um film tensioned to the point of destruction and then clamped all around the stators I'm getting the best highs and midrange of all of my stats except the SR-007 and I'm running them off the transformers. Because of their unique design I can't run them off my Stax amps and they sound great. The highs are very extended and clear and the midrange has the same "reach out and touch the performer" quality as the SR-007. The bass is severely limited in extension though but the drivers are tiny compared with the O2's so that's not surprising. Great headphone with the right diaphragm and for my among the top 5 most beautiful headphones ever made.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and the midrange has the same "reach out and touch the performer" quality as the SR-007._

 

I LOVE this description ! And it so very true. Late night listening sessions are simply magical.


----------



## krmathis

Well, 'surfboardz26' just sold his SR-Omega!
 Who's the lucky Canadian winner?


----------



## jjcha

Who else.

 Well, at least it sold for a fair price, either way, at least in my honest opinion.

 Might be a good time to get a used Aristaeus, if you're on the market.

 [edit]woops! there it is already! hehe[/edit]

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, at least it sold for a fair price, either way, at least in my honest opinion._

 

Yes, I say its a fair price as well.
 Just $51 higher than last time the same headphone sold (two months ago). Guess that means we have found the SR-Omega's current going rate.

 May they come to good use!


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I've spent the last two weeks experimenting with the diaphragms in my Micro Seiki MS-2 stats and I've hit gold. This is a very odd design with a 4 pin plug and a diaphragm made out of the same material as plastic bags. They don't last as long as mylar does and they were broken in my set when I got them. I've been experimenting with coating, mylar thickness and the diaphragm tensioning. With a 3um film tensioned to the point of destruction and then clamped all around the stators I'm getting the best highs and midrange of all of my stats except the SR-007 and I'm running them off the transformers. Because of their unique design I can't run them off my Stax amps and they sound great. The highs are very extended and clear and the midrange has the same "reach out and touch the performer" quality as the SR-007. The bass is severely limited in extension though..._

 

No bass? Sounds like your 'fram tension is too high, Spritzer. But better too tense than too relaxed; otherwise... bzzaaaatt. 


 I'm interested in these phones and the possibilities of repairing them because of member Charivari's trials with his Infinity 'stats, which are very likely nothing more than dressed-up MS-2s. Were the original 'frams really something like low-density polyethylene?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who else.

 Well, at least it sold for a fair price, either way, at least in my honest opinion.

 Might be a good time to get a used Aristaeus, if you're on the market.

 [edit]woops! there it is already! hehe[/edit]

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

OOOOooo..... tempting


----------



## Veniogenesis

Heh, I could use Adrian's amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad I can't afford it.

 Speaking of amplifiers, I have a feeling the Sigma Pro is going to sound severely underpowered with the SRM-3. About how much (in terms of which amps) will the Sigma Pros need in order to perform decently?

 Will a T-Amp to SRD-7 be more powerful than a SRM-3 for example? (Question aimed at those who have a T-Amp -> energizer configuration such as smeggy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I could use Adrian's amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad I can't afford it.

 Speaking of amplifiers, I have a feeling the Sigma Pro is going to sound severely underpowered with the SRM-3. About how much (in terms of which amps) will the Sigma Pros need in order to perform decently?

 Will a T-Amp to SRD-7 be more powerful than a SRM-3 for example? (Question aimed at those who have a T-Amp -> energizer configuration such as smeggy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Transformer boxes are the logical route because you can just use a cheaper amp and still get the power. Being pro bias you'll need a SRD-7mk2 or SRD-7 Pro, however.

 I'd suggest you check ebay and local pawnbrokers for any well priced amps before you swing for the T-amp.


----------



## smeggy

I've tried my stuff through a few amps and they all do a spiffy job with the transformers. Pretty much any decent amp will do, I like the t-amp specifically with the SR-X as it's a little rough and works well with those phones. I don't have Sigmas so don't know how the sound would be paired with a t-amp. 

 I like it up front and lively, the t-amps is good at that


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've tried my stuff through a few amps and they all do a spiffy job with the transformers. Pretty much any decent amp will do, I like the t-amp specifically with the SR-X as it's a little rough and works well with those phones. I don't have Sigmas so don't know how the sound would be paired with a t-amp. 

 I like it up front and lively, the t-amps is good at that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The T-amp might not have enough cojones for the hard to drive SPs. Or it might, I haven't tried them together.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Thanks for the help guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is the general range of power (watts for example) for the speaker amps we're talking about?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the help guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What is the general range of power (watts for example) for the speaker amps we're talking about?_

 

I imagine anywhere between 10 and 40 would suffice. The Sigma is harder to drrive because the drivers are further away from your ears which is why Carl was wary of the t-amps output. I thinkk it'll do it but a little more powah can't hurt.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the help guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is the general range of power (watts for example) for the speaker amps we're talking about?_

 

We've yet to reach a consensus on exactly how much is enough, but I'd suggest at least 10W/pc.

 You're got the luxury of a bit of wiggle room here, potentially. If you sell your two Stax amps you've got some money to spend. And you could buy poweramps without volume controls should you so choose, as the PPX3 can be used as a preamp. I recommend, assuming you want to go down this route, to get the transformer box part of the equation sorted out, then go amp shopping and see what deals you can find.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I think I know where I might be able to acquire/purchase a SRD-7 Pro. If only I had my vintage Marantz receiver with me. That thing's speaker and headphone outs are awesome in my opinion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We'll see how it works out. The SRM-1 MKII is coming in about a week, and I'm going to try them with Jason's Lambda. I'll probably sell the SRM-1 MKII since I don't have a normal bias Stax anyways (unless I acquire one for some unforeseen reason in the near future). That'll let me get my first taste of Stax (other than the OII) before my Sigma Pro and SRM-3 arrive in a couple of weeks. Maybe by that time I'll have thought things through.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I know where I might be able to acquire/purchase a SRD-7 Pro._

 

Alternatively I know of an auction for the SRD-7mk2 that's hasn't had many bids. It finishes in a few hours, though.

  Quote:


 If only I had my vintage Marantz receiver with me. That thing's speaker and headphone outs are awesome in my opinion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Yes, that would have worked a treat.

  Quote:


 Maybe by that time I'll have thought things through. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Always a good idea.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alternatively I know of an auction for the SRD-7mk2 that's hasn't had many bids. It finishes in a few hours, though._

 

Are you referring to the one that is ending in a bit under three hours? The thing is that I've already talked to someone a little while ago regarding acquiring his SRD-7 Pro if the need ever arises. I think I'll need to talk to him again soon.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you referring to the one that is ending in a bit under three hours?_

 

Sounds like a different one. "9 Stunden 20 Minuten" for this one.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like a different one. "9 Stunden 20 Minuten" for this one._

 

Hehe, I see that one now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh hmmm, a MKII has both a pro and a normal bias output. That might be useful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Let's see what happens in 9 hours.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We've yet to reach a consensus on exactly how much is enough, but I'd suggest at least 10W/pc._

 

I've been fiddling with numbers of this sort a lot lately investigating my transformer box project so I figured I'd run the numbers here. Hopefully I won't stuff it up...

 From basic electronics theory we have P=IV and I=V/R
 Combining the two we get P=V*V/R
 We can then re-arrange to get V=sqrt(P*R)

 Now for a 10W speaker amp we know P=10W and assuming this is 10W into 8 ohms then we also know R...R=8. Running the numbers we get...
 V=sqrt(10*8)
 V=8.94 Volts
 This is the rms voltage swing generated by the amp when it's providing the full 10 Watts of power. Now assuming this is fed into a Stax transformer box with a ratio of 1:24 (which apparently the SRD-7 Pro and MK2 are) then we multiply the voltage by 24 which gives 215 Volts RMS. This would be the maximum swing provided to the stators.

 Now of course this doesn't say anything about the _quality_ of the sound signal but based on the amp specs spritzer posted this voltage is well on the low side and I expect would limit the dynamics that the headphones could portray. Whether this would bother you is another matter but it does suggest that ideally you want a higher wattage amplifier.

 Note that an amp providing 10W into 16 ohms or into 4 ohms changes things significantly. For 16 ohms we get 304V RMS (okay) and for 4ohms we get 152V RMS (too low).


----------



## Carl

You're assuming the amp has a damping factor of 1 in your equation, yes?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're assuming the amp has a damping factor of 1 in your equation, yes?_

 

The equations assume ideal conditions where the output voltage level can be sustained as required. The damping factor is only going to reduce the actual voltage even more in real world applications.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The equations assume ideal conditions where the output voltage level can be sustained as required. The damping factor is only going to reduce the actual voltage even more in real world applications._

 

But it's going to reduce output Z as well, correct?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But it's going to reduce output Z as well, correct?_

 

Reduce? Not based on my understanding of damping factor.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Reduce? Not based on my understanding of damping factor._

 

Damping factor is the ratio of output Z to the characteristic impedence of the speaker, is it not?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been fiddling with numbers of this sort a lot lately investigating my transformer box project so I figured I'd run the numbers here. Hopefully I won't stuff it up...

 From basic electronics theory we have P=IV and I=V/R
 Combining the two we get P=V*V/R
 We can then re-arrange to get V=sqrt(P*R)

 Now for a 10W speaker amp we know P=10W and assuming this is 10W into 8 ohms then we also know R...R=8. Running the numbers we get...
 V=sqrt(10*8)
 V=8.94 Volts
 This is the rms voltage swing generated by the amp when it's providing the full 10 Watts of power. Now assuming this is fed into a Stax transformer box with a ratio of 1:24 (which apparently the SRD-7 Pro and MK2 are) then we multiply the voltage by 24 which gives 215 Volts RMS. This would be the maximum swing provided to the stators.

 Now of course this doesn't say anything about the quality of the sound signal but based on the amp specs spritzer posted this voltage is well on the low side and I expect would limit the dynamics that the headphones could portray. Whether this would bother you is another matter but it does suggest that ideally you want a higher wattage amplifier.

 Note that an amp providing 10W into 16 ohms or into 4 ohms changes things significantly. For 16 ohms we get 304V RMS (okay) and for 4ohms we get 152V RMS (too low)._

 

A 30 to 50 watt amp (rated into 8 ohms) is just fine for driving the SRD-7. If you plan to use a tube amp (with a output transformer) I would connect it to the 8 ohm tap. The SRD-7 has a falling impedence with frequency. You want to make sure that there isn't any roll off at high frequencies.

 AudioD


----------



## derekbmn

We could post about numbers all day long and never reach any real world conclusions. I will tell you this though. ON paper my 30w amp running to the SRD-7 Pro isn't a whole lot more powerful than a SRM-313 (If at all really). And there is absolutely no contest. The amp/tranformer combo has so much more power, it's as said above no contest. The 313 from my experience cannot drive the OII to decent levels at all IMO. I'm really starting to wonder if in fact there is just more to it ,and were all figuring something wrong or ???
 Any ideas ?


----------



## 88Sound

Is there any difference in sound between Mullard XF2's and XF2's manufactured by Mullard with other brand names like Rogers or Philips?

 Spritzer, we have similar Blue Hawaii's, always on bias and black gates. I'm currently running Telefunken EL34 Wing Plates in my BH which sound great to me, have you ever heard this tube, would you know how the XF2's would differ in sound.

 I'm also very interested in improvements you might be making to your Blue Hawaii, I might try the same with mine. The only minor complaints I have so far is the always-on-bias makes a slight buzzing sound, only external, not throught the phones.

 Thanks!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We could post about numbers all day long and never reach any real world conclusions. I will tell you this though. ON paper my 30w amp running to the SRD-7 Pro isn't a whole lot more powerful than a SRM-313 (If at all really). And there is absolutely no contest. The amp/tranformer combo has so much more power, it's as said above no contest. The 313 from my experience cannot drive the OII to decent levels at all IMO. I'm really starting to wonder if in fact there is just more to it ,and were all figuring something wrong or ???
 Any ideas ?_

 

When I use my SRX-III’s on my SRA-12S amp the usual listening level is about 10 o’clock on the dial. Using the same source on my SRM-1mkII the volume dial is at 2 o’clock on the dial. With some low output sources I can turn the volume control all the way up on the SRM and it still is not driving the amp to full output. This would give the impression that the 12S is more powerful than the SRM. Not true. What is true is that the 12S has considerably more gain (amplification factor). The only real way to test an amps ability to drive the phones is measure the actual high voltage output into a dummy electrostatic element load and run it up to clipping and measure the voltage. You could also use a sound level meter coupled to the earpad and run it up. That would be a dangerous procedure that would likely arc the elements. The procedures would be the same for a conventional amp driving a step-up transformer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No bass? Sounds like your 'fram tension is too high, Spritzer. But better too tense than too relaxed; otherwise... bzzaaaatt. 


 I'm interested in these phones and the possibilities of repairing them because of member Charivari's trials with his Infinity 'stats, which are very likely nothing more than dressed-up MS-2s. Were the original 'frams really something like low-density polyethylene?_

 

I made them this tensioned for a reason. I'm experimenting with my own DIY two driver per cup electorstats, one for bass and the other for treble but both driven full range because crossovers are the devils work... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I can control the frequency output with the tensioning of the diaphragm and the coating material used. It's a fun project but nobody I know understands what the hell I'm doing... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The MS-2 are among the most high end non Stax stat ever made. The stators have hexagonal openings and the driver is clamped into place with enormous force even though it is only held together with tape. The original diaphragms were white polyethylene and while some sound came from them they fell too pieces when I disassembled the drivers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any difference in sound between Mullard XF2's and XF2's manufactured by Mullard with other brand names like Rogers or Philips?

 Spritzer, we have similar Blue Hawaii's, always on bias and black gates. I'm currently running Telefunken EL34 Wing Plates in my BH which sound great to me, have you ever heard this tube, would you know how the XF2's would differ in sound.

 I'm also very interested in improvements you might be making to your Blue Hawaii, I might try the same with mine. The only minor complaints I have so far is the always-on-bias makes a slight buzzing sound, only external, not throught the phones.

 Thanks!_

 

All XF-2's are the same despite the name but the Mullard branded are often more expensive. 

 My amp doesn't have always on bias since it wasn't an option back then but they are very similar. It's been a while since I did my tube tests so the exact impressions aren't still fresh but I remember what they did to my system. 

 I've tried two types of Telefunken's, the real ones that Telefunken actually made and the ones with the hole or "dimple" on the top of the tube. Those were made in East Germany for Siemens but they are dozens of different names on them, I've got AEG, Telefunken, National and Siemens here. From the picture in the New York meet thread I gathered that you were using these. The original Telefunken's are good but the Mullards do everything better and they are cheaper too. It's more of a collectors tube and I simply didn't warm up to it. The "dimple" version is a good, cheap NOS tube and while better then the current production they can't match the extension and the liquidity of the best tubes. The XF2's are the best tube for the SR-007 because both are very truthful but at the same time musical and involving. Both tell it like it is and while that doesn't work with the He90 the SR-007 flourish. 

 I don't really like stepped attenuators so I'm going to replace them with a single 4-gang P&G pot and remove the RCA input and switch. All of the wiring will be upgraded with solid core soft silver covered with cotton or teflon where the high voltages demand. All connectors will be removed and every thing wired directly to the boards. I've also been toying with the idea of getting some custom made R-core transformers to replace the torroid. It won't be cheap but it will be a huge improvement. I'm also going to add two new bias supply's for the He90 and low bias Stax.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Interesting discussion regarding the gain factor and actual power. So here is my question: with an amp-to-energizer combo, how do you determine (on paper, that is) whether it has a high gain factor or if actually has more power.

 If I'm not mistaken, I know there is an issue with dynamics where the ability to drive a can to loud volumes does not necessarily translate to having the ability to drive a can with authority/power. How does this theoretically work and how would this translate to the world of electrostatics? (For dynamics, my intuition was that high gain factor = high voltage, high volume; high power = high current.)

 Also, on the back of energizers, there is a power rating in watts. What does that refer to?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting discussion regarding the gain factor and actual power. So here is my question: with an amp-to-energizer combo, how do you determine (on paper, that is) whether it has a high gain factor or if actually has more power.

 If I'm not mistaken, I know there is an issue with dynamics where the ability to drive a can to loud volumes does not necessarily translate to having the ability to drive a can with authority/power. How does this theoretically work and how would this translate to the world of electrostatics? (For dynamics, my intuition was that high gain factor = high voltage, high volume; high power = high current.)

 Also, on the back of energizers, there is a power rating in watts. What does that refer to?_

 

When driving dynamic speakers we need power (watts). Amps with big power transformers, huge capacitors and lots of output devices can punch their way through difficult loads to provide the correct amplified voltage to the speakers. This same amp driving a Stax step-up transformer is like a Chevy 454 engine revving to 6000 rpm in neutral. Not much power is being used but the same voltage is being delivered. Very little current (muscle) is required to drive a SRD. There are small amps (low wattage OTL tube amps) that can swing big voltages and Big monster high current amps that are very limited in voltage swing.

 You also need to remember that amp gain and amp power are not the same. Most conventional power amps (for driving speakers) have between 20 and 30 db of gain. That means that a few volts in will give max volts (or power) out. If your source will not drive to that level you will need a preamp in between. All you need to drive a SRD is 15-20 volts (30-50 watts into 8 ohm load). All the current in the world will not get you anymore dynamics. More voltage will.

 The watt rating on the back of the SRD-7 is how much the bias supply draws from your house current.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I'm experimenting with my own DIY two driver per cup electorstats, one for bass and the other for treble but both driven full range because crossovers are the devils work... I can control the frequency output with the tensioning of the diaphragm and the coating material used. It's a fun project but nobody I know understands what the hell I'm doing..._

 

Well, I'm nobody, and sure enough, it's not too hard to understand what you're doing. Sounds like AKG in the '70s with a little of Acoustat founder Jim Strickland thrown in.

 Speaking of Strickland, I think he was the one who pointed out to me that 'stat 'phones don't need a high-resistivity coating, since they're too small for charge migration to be a problem. Still, doesn't the MS-2 use a resistive coating? or is it impossible to tell?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_The MS-2 are among the most high end non Stax stat ever made. The stators have hexagonal openings and the driver is clamped into place with enormous force even though it is only held together with tape. The original diaphragms were white polyethylene and while some sound came from them they fell too pieces when I disassembled the drivers._

 

Here's Charivari's struggle with his Infinitys. See if the guts are the same.
http://www.sound-thinking.org/index....&hl=headphones


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I've also been toying with the idea of getting some custom made R-core transformers to replace the torroid. It won't be cheap but it will be a huge improvement..._

 

I'm not up on the details of xformer design, but don't toroids have the best HF passthrough? Why would R-cores be better?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We could post about numbers all day long and never reach any real world conclusions. I will tell you this though. ON paper my 30w amp running to the SRD-7 Pro isn't a whole lot more powerful than a SRM-313 (If at all really). And there is absolutely no contest. The amp/tranformer combo has so much more power, it's as said above no contest. The 313 from my experience cannot drive the OII to decent levels at all IMO. I'm really starting to wonder if in fact there is just more to it ,and were all figuring something wrong or ???
 Any ideas ?_

 

Agreed! I've been banging on about this for ages now: I've been shocked (and disappointed) to discover how much better are the transformers than an SRM-313 or an SRM-1 Mk 2. I've used an SRD-6 SB and an SRD-7 (mains-bias) driven by a 20-year old Naim pre-/power combo, and they're louder, more dynamic, more musical, just plain better, than the Stax amps.

 All this churning over numbers is a waste of time: I thought Naim (and Linn) had laid all this to rest years ago, when the tiny Nait integrated amp sounded louder (and better) than 100w-specified Jap amps...


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When driving dynamic speakers we need power (watts). Amps with big power transformers, huge capacitors and lots of output devices can punch their way through difficult loads to provide the correct amplified voltage to the speakers. This same amp driving a Stax step-up transformer is like a Chevy 454 engine revving to 6000 rpm in neutral. Not much power is being used but the same voltage is being delivered. Very little current (muscle) is required to drive a SRD. There are small amps (low wattage OTL tube amps) that can swing big voltages and Big monster high current amps that are very limited in voltage swing.

 You also need to remember that amp gain and amp power are not the same. Most conventional power amps (for driving speakers) have between 20 and 30 db of gain. That means that a few volts in will give max volts (or power) out. If your source will not drive to that level you will need a preamp in between. All you need to drive a SRD is 15-20 volts (30-50 watts into 8 ohm load). All the current in the world will not get you anymore dynamics. More voltage will.

 The watt rating on the back of the SRD-7 is how much the bias supply draws from your house current._

 

Thanks for the help audiod. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When shopping for amplifiers, how do I know what the voltage gain will be? (Which spec should I look at, or is there no clear number.) Or is looking at the watt-into-load spec enough?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I'm nobody, and sure enough, it's not too hard to understand what you're doing. Sounds like AKG in the '70s with a little of Acoustat founder Jim Strickland thrown in.

 Speaking of Strickland, I think he was the one who pointed out to me that 'stat 'phones don't need a high-resistivity coating, since they're too small for charge migration to be a problem. Still, doesn't the MS-2 use a resistive coating? or is it impossible to tell?



 Here's Charivari's struggle with his Infinitys. See if the guts are the same.
http://www.sound-thinking.org/index....&hl=headphones



 I'm not up on the details of xformer design, but don't toroids have the best HF passthrough? Why would R-cores be better?_

 

It's more like Quad with the original ESL but you've got the gist of it. I would never run without a resistive coating in the mega ohms per cm2 to make sure they are working in constant charge mode and for safety reasons but you can go with high conductivity. I do not see any reason to do so but it's ok in theory. 

 I can't see if these are phones are the same design from these pictures. The film in my set fell into little pieces and I didn't bother measuring. A simple "5 minute made" diaphragm with a pencil as a resistive coating works fine so I'm guessing they treated the film with something. 

 I don't really know why R-cores are better but when you see company's where pure performance is the only criteria (Kondo, Shindo) and cost be damned they all use R-cores. The only reason toroids are used is that they are cheaper and with 99.999999% of audio company's thats all that counts.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We could post about numbers all day long and never reach any real world conclusions. I will tell you this though. ON paper my 30w amp running to the SRD-7 Pro isn't a whole lot more powerful than a SRM-313 (If at all really). And there is absolutely no contest. The amp/tranformer combo has so much more power, it's as said above no contest. The 313 from my experience cannot drive the OII to decent levels at all IMO. I'm really starting to wonder if in fact there is just more to it ,and were all figuring something wrong or ???
 Any ideas ?_

 

Slew rate? Does anyone know what the various slew rates of Stax's amps are?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_It's more like Quad with the original ESL..._

 

I was going to say that, but didn't the original Quad have a conventional crossover network?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this churning over numbers is a waste of time: I thought Naim (and Linn) had laid all this to rest years ago, when the tiny Nait integrated amp sounded louder (and better) than 100w-specified Jap amps..._

 

I’m an old style audiophile that believes that our ears are the final judge. Putting together a great system is not just an art, there is some science involved. I’ve owned low powered tube and solid state amps all my life. We’re not talking about amps driving conventional speakers. We’re talking about amps driving step-up transformers. What good is an audiophile grade amp if it clips when listening to music driving the SRD-7. This discussion is not about the subtleties of an amps sound quality but compatibility. We are discussing whether a amp is likely to under voltage drive the SRD-7. We all want the best sound quality (using our ears) but there are some audiophile grade amps that are not suited for this purpose no matter how good they are driving conventional speakers. If you understand what we are talking about you will see that it is not a waste of time.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the help audiod. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When shopping for amplifiers, how do I know what the voltage gain will be? (Which spec should I look at, or is there no clear number.) Or is looking at the watt-into-load spec enough?_

 

Veniogenesis,
 I don't know if you need a basic amp (no controls) or a integrated amp (control functions and switching). Whatever you get I would recommend a power output of 30-50 watts into 8 ohms. I would stick with the known audiophile brands. Take your phones to a good dealer and listen.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I’m an old style audiophile that believes that our ears are the final judge. Putting together a great system is not just an art, there is some science involved. I’ve owned low powered tube and solid state amps all my life. We’re not talking about amps driving conventional speakers. We’re talking about amps driving step-up transformers. What good is an audiophile grade amp if it clips when listening to music driving the SRD-7. This discussion is not about the subtleties of an amps sound quality but compatibility. We are discussing whether a amp is likely to under voltage drive the SRD-7. We all want the best sound quality (using our ears) but there are some audiophile grade amps that are not suited for this purpose no matter how good they are driving convention speakers. If you understand what we are talking about you will see that it is not a waste of time._

 

That's certainly my take on things. I don't believe the numbers are meaningless, especially when just trying to find out what just will outright not work. An under driven SRD-7 is not going to sound great no matter how nice the amp may otherwise be. A well driven SRD-7 may or may not sound great either but that doesn't mean the numbers have no value at all.


----------



## derekbmn

Oh the numbers have meaning, but I wouldn't get too hung up on them. In the end I think we would all probably agree to the phrase "let your ears decide" over any other factor(s). Am I wrong ?
 And what was that one phrase -If it sounds bad and measures good - it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad - you measured the wrong thing.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Slew rate? Does anyone know what the various slew rates of Stax's amps are?_

 

That would certainly have an effect and I expect something like the O2s that like higher voltages would need a higher slew rate to truly shine.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* 
_Oh the numbers have meaning, but I wouldn't get too hung up on them. In the end I think we would all probably agree to the phrase "let your ears decide" over any other factor(s). Am I wrong ?
 And what was that one phrase -If it sounds bad and measures good - it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad - you measured the wrong thing._

 

Yes, I'd agree with that completely.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Slew rate? Does anyone know what the various slew rates of Stax's amps are?_

 

I've been digging but so far have found nothing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to say that, but didn't the original Quad have a conventional crossover network?_

 

There are some resistors and caps on the audio transformers secondary but it's not much. I think that it is more down to level matching the panels and some other acoustic tricks. 

 In direct comparison the Micro Seiki MS-2's lack bass but with normal listening it isn't that noticeable. It's kind of like the He90, you aren't really aware of how bass light they are until you compare them with something bass demanding. They are missing more then two octaves compared to the SR-007 but the midrange and highs more then make up for it. 

 Last but not least, mylar drivers need at least 100 hours of run in. Fresh drivers sound like dog crap on a sandwich but they get better quickly and are good after about 100 hours. There is a good reason for this effect because the film is covered with small wrinkles that hinder it in performing as it should and it needs to vibrate to iron these out and become a uniform surface. The resistive also needs to burn off some extra particles until it settles in.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Fresh drivers sound like dog crap on a sandwich_

 

What the...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 That can't be a good thing.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh the numbers have meaning, but I wouldn't get too hung up on them. In the end I think we would all probably agree to the phrase "let your ears decide" over any other factor(s). Am I wrong ?
 And what was that one phrase -If it sounds bad and measures good - it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad - you measured the wrong thing._

 

We are trying to figure out what kind of voltages an amp must put out to drive the step-up transformers so we can take full advantage of the dynamic range of our headphones. Some of the Stax amps (and others) do not have enough voltage drive to run the phones to their full dynamic potential. We would never use a 3 watt SET to drive a Martin-Logan CLS. Not enough power. The numbers tell us no. All we are doing is finding out the voltage potential of a given amp and calculating what the voltage would be after a certain turns ratio of a step-up transformer. That’s all! This is not a conversation about specifications vs. subjective listening. If a thermometer tells me the water is scalding hot it will keep me from getting burned.

 Some of us are also planning DIY step-up transformer projects and this information is necessary in the design.

 AudioD


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_There are some resistors and caps on the audio transformers secondary but it's not much. I think that it is more down to level matching the panels and some other acoustic tricks._

 

Hee hee. When I say that about Acoustat's MK-121, people eye me skeptically. For those who want to see for themselves, the Quad ESL's schematic can be found here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_...They [the Micro Seikis] are missing more then two octaves compared to the SR-007 but the midrange and highs more then make up for it._

 

That's quite an endorsement. I hope Charivari is reading this. To what do you attribute this prowess?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_Last but not least, mylar drivers need at least 100 hours of run in. There is a good reason for this effect because the film is covered with small wrinkles that hinder it in performing as it should and it needs to vibrate to iron these out and become a uniform surface._

 

Sounds plausible. Where'd you find out about this?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We are trying to figure out what kind of voltages an amp must put out to drive the step-up transformers so we can take full advantage of the dynamic range of our headphones. Some of the Stax amps (and others) do not have enough voltage drive to run the phones to their full dynamic potential. We would never use a 3 watt SET to drive a Martin-Logan CLS. Not enough power. The numbers tell us no. All we are doing is finding out the voltage potential of a given amp and calculating what the voltage would be after a certain turns ratio of a step-up transformer. That’s all! This is not a conversation about specifications vs. subjective listening. If a thermometer tells me the water is scalding hot it will keep me from getting burned.

 Some of us are also planning DIY step-up transformer projects and this information is necessary in the design.

 AudioD_

 

Uhhh.... yeah i've been around for a while. I know what were talking about.
 But so far FROM MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE ,there is more to it than this simple calculation to figure out the rms output. As in the numbers dont always jive with the end result. So SETTLE DOWN and keep an open mind.


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally posted by Spritzer:
_All XF-2's are the same despite the name but the Mullard branded are often more expensive. 

 My amp doesn't have always on bias since it wasn't an option back then but they are very similar. It's been a while since I did my tube tests so the exact impressions aren't still fresh but I remember what they did to my system. 

 I've tried two types of Telefunken's, the real ones that Telefunken actually made and the ones with the hole or "dimple" on the top of the tube. Those were made in East Germany for Siemens but they are dozens of different names on them, I've got AEG, Telefunken, National and Siemens here. From the picture in the New York meet thread I gathered that you were using these. The original Telefunken's are good but the Mullards do everything better and they are cheaper too. It's more of a collectors tube and I simply didn't warm up to it. The "dimple" version is a good, cheap NOS tube and while better then the current production they can't match the extension and the liquidity of the best tubes. The XF2's are the best tube for the SR-007 because both are very truthful but at the same time musical and involving. Both tell it like it is and while that doesn't work with the He90 the SR-007 flourish. 

 I don't really like stepped attenuators so I'm going to replace them with a single 4-gang P&G pot and remove the RCA input and switch. All of the wiring will be upgraded with solid core soft silver covered with cotton or teflon where the high voltages demand. All connectors will be removed and every thing wired directly to the boards. I've also been toying with the idea of getting some custom made R-core transformers to replace the torroid. It won't be cheap but it will be a huge improvement. I'm also going to add two new bias supply's for the He90 and low bias Stax.
_ 
 

First of all, thank you very much for all that info. The Tele's I'm running are the real one's, no dimple, double getter, made at the ULM plant in W. Germany. I just purchased a matched quad of Mullard dual getter XF2's, 2 branded as Rogers, and 2 branded as Philips. After I get them and burn them in for a while I'll post impressions of the differences between the XF2's and the Tele's.

 Sounds like you may be planning a major overhaul of that Blue Hawaii! I wish you the best of luck. I'm not quite that brave but will be very curious about your results!

 Thanks again!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Slew rate? Does anyone know what the various slew rates of Stax's amps are?_

 

Carl,
 To have a flat bandwidth out to 20Khz and a output voltage of 350 volts would require at least 44 v/ms. 50Khz would be 110 v/ms. I will see if I have any info from Stax.

 AudioD


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Uhhh.... yeah i've been around for a while. I know what were talking about.
 But so far FROM MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE ,there is more to it than this simple calculation to figure out the rms output. As in the numbers dont always jive with the end result. So SETTLE DOWN and keep an open mind._

 

I'm open. I have experience too.

 Happy listening
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enough said.

 AudioD


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm open. I have experience too.

 Happy listening
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enough said.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 It's all good.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Veniogenesis,
 I don't know if you need a basic amp (no controls) or a integrated amp (control functions and switching). Whatever you get I would recommend a power output of 30-50 watts into 8 ohms. I would stick with the known audiophile brands. Take your phones to a good dealer and listen.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Wait, does the power rating say _anything_ about its voltage output? If P = I*V = I^2*R, I won't be able to determine the voltage just from the power-into-load rating. Or am I wrong and how do I know I'm not getting a high current, low voltage amp?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait, does the power rating say anything about its voltage output? If P = I*V = I^2*R, I won't be able to determine the voltage just from the power-into-load rating. Or am I wrong and how do I know I'm not getting a high current, low voltage amp?_

 

A 30 to 50 watt amp (rated into 8 ohm load) is putting 15 to 20 volts into that load. Remember that these are static results into a resistive load. Most modern amps today can still put this out into a reactive load as the SRD-7. You don't really need a high current amp. As long as the 20-30 watts is rated into 8 ohms you will have plenty of voltage. I used a Dynaco ST-35 amp (17 watts on the 8 ohm tap) driving my SRD-7/SRX-III with supurb results. The key is to listen to different amps. They all sound different.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somebody called for me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Sigma Pro and the SR-Lambda are very different phones. The Sigma is like the SR-007, laid back and relaxed while the Lambda is more upfront and it is BRIGHT!!! The Sigmas top end is rolled off and they are a power hog while the Lambda runs on anything. The Sigma Pro's are on the whole a better phone but whether they worth the extra money, I don't know. All I know is that I would take either of these phones over the He90 any day and I do. They aren't better but they are more fun and their flaws don't irritate me. 

 I can only compare them to my HD600 and any electrostatic headphone eats them for dinner with musical involvement and thats what matters to me. The HD600 simply bores me to death but they are fine for computer games._

 

This is rather like my opinion of the Sigma pro and for that matter the low bias Sigma and the Sigma rebuilt with 404 components. The 404 rebuild makes a real improvement over the basic pro, in treble and detail. Both are more dynamic than the low bias, but sometimes I like the increased ambience that you get with low bias. 

 While I have been wrapped in the Sigma/404 for the last several months, the last week or so I have been going back to the basic Lambda 404 run off the Stax 717 amp. An application of Silclear on all contacts (ic's,power plugs,pins) gives the 404's much more oomph and seems to reduce the 404's deficiencies, i.e. treble etch and weak midbass. The sound is much more exciting and even recordings which had been unlistenable on the 404's are sounding pretty good.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl,
 To have a flat bandwidth out to 20Khz and a output voltage of 350 volts would require at least 44 v/ms. 50Khz would be 110 v/ms. I will see if I have any info from Stax.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, let's set out what I'd regard as a good benchmark for slew rate and see what it is. Someone should check my maths for any errors.

 The equation for slew rate is 2∏FVpp/1000000, correct? So, for a 500Vrms swing (~700Vpp) and a 80kHz max frequency that would make what? 352V/ms? Ouch.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, let's set out what I'd regard as a good benchmark for slew rate and see what it is. Someone should check my maths for any errors.

 The equation for slew rate is 2?FVpp/1000000, correct? So, for a 500Vrms swing (~700Vpp) and a 80kHz max frequency that would make what? 352V/ms? Ouch._

 

I believe your calculations are correct. Of course it halves if you aim for 40Khz instead and halves again for 20Khz but I'm not about to draw any conclusions that would take me into tinfoil hat territory.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What the...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 That can't be a good thing._

 

It isn't! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hee hee. When I say that about Acoustat's MK-121, people eye me skeptically. For those who want to see for themselves, the Quad ESL's schematic can be found here. 

 That's quite an endorsement. I hope Charivari is reading this. To what do you attribute this prowess?

 Sounds plausible. Where'd you find out about this?_

 

I know that Quad time aligned the panels and thats why the treble panel is set back a bit. 

 The reason why they sound this good is simple, the drivers are properly mounted and then they are fixed to a large milled piece of aluminum so they do not resonate much. I modded my Suprex in a similar manner and it completely transformed when from a horrible headphone to a pretty good one. With ESL's the housing has to be very neutral and non resonant so they can project all of the sound they make. Quad is still working on this but Sound Lab and Stax have done well on this issue with the U-1's and the SR-007 respectively. 

 I've read about this mylar phenomenon from a number of sources and it makes complete sense to my. Mylar is a very strange material to work with and there are always wrinkles, no matter what you do. They might be small but the driver has to clear as much of them by running in for a few hours. People might not be hearing this on production samples because the drivers are measured at the factory so they must run them for a while. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First of all, thank you very much for all that info. The Tele's I'm running are the real one's, no dimple, double getter, made at the ULM plant in W. Germany. I just purchased a matched quad of Mullard dual getter XF2's, 2 branded as Rogers, and 2 branded as Philips. After I get them and burn them in for a while I'll post impressions of the differences between the XF2's and the Tele's.

 Sounds like you may be planning a major overhaul of that Blue Hawaii! I wish you the best of luck. I'm not quite that brave but will be very curious about your results!

 Thanks again!_

 

I hope you'll be pleased with the XF2's. There are no substitutes for me because every thing else sounds wrong. 

 I want to upgrade the Blue Hawaii but there is really no way to move forward. The ES-1 is IMO the ugliest amp ever made and I'd much rather upgrade the Blue Hawaii as much as possible instead of forking out more then 10k for a custom ES-1. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is rather like my opinion of the Sigma pro and for that matter the low bias Sigma and the Sigma rebuilt with 404 components. The 404 rebuild makes a real improvement over the basic pro, in treble and detail. Both are more dynamic than the low bias, but sometimes I like the increased ambience that you get with low bias. 

 While I have been wrapped in the Sigma/404 for the last several months, the last week or so I have been going back to the basic Lambda 404 run off the Stax 717 amp. An application of Silclear on all contacts (ic's,power plugs,pins) gives the 404's much more oomph and seems to reduce the 404's deficiencies, i.e. treble etch and weak midbass. The sound is much more exciting and even recordings which had been unlistenable on the 404's are sounding pretty good._

 

Good to see that you are getting good results with the Silclear. You shoud thy to upgrade the connectors to WBT Nextgen. It is a *huge* difference.


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally posted by spritzer:
_I want to upgrade the Blue Hawaii but there is really no way to move forward. The ES-1 is IMO the ugliest amp ever made and I'd much rather upgrade the Blue Hawaii as much as possible instead of forking out more then 10k for a custom ES-1. 
_ 
 

It's like my mother used to say _beauty is as beauty does_ . Although meet conditions are not the ideal place to seriously audition equipment, the ES1 was better to my ear than my BH as it is presently configured. That being said the ES1 at the meet was 10K. My BH was 1/4 the cost.

 After 2 years of listening to the O2/BH combo I still get that sensation of how 'right' everything sounds and have no desire to go to a different amp to see if I can make things slightly better......however modding the BH to make it better is another thing entirely.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's like my mother used to say beauty is as beauty does . Although meet conditions are not the ideal place to seriously audition equipment, the ES1 was better to my ear than my BH as it is presently configured. That being said the ES1 at the meet was 10K. My BH was 1/4 the cost.

 After 2 years of listening to the O2/BH combo I still get that sensation of how 'right' everything sounds and have no desire to go to a different amp to see if I can make things slightly better......however modding the BH to make it better is another thing entirely. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I like the more down to business look of the BH and it is simply stunning in silver. I've no doubt that the 10k ES-1 beat the BH but throw in some 2k$ worth of mods and the tables will turn. Simply by wiring the BH with some good silver would increase the performance by a big margin


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_....An application of Silclear on all contacts (ic's,power plugs,pins) gives the 404's much more oomph and seems to reduce the 404's deficiencies, i.e. treble etch and weak midbass. The sound is much more exciting and even recordings which had been unlistenable on the 404's are sounding pretty good._

 

Even though I'm happy enough to wield a soldering iron over my SR-Xs, I'm strangely nervous about daubing contact paste (if that's what it is?) over my electrical and electronic connectors. Plus, it has to be said, I'm reluctant to shell out $35 for Silclear if it's not much cop...

 Does Silclear get the thumbs up from the Head-Fi Team Stax?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even though I'm happy enough to wield a soldering iron over my SR-Xs, I'm strangely nervous about daubing contact paste (if that's what it is?) over my electrical and electronic connectors. Plus, it has to be said, I'm reluctant to shell out $35 for Silclear if it's not much cop...

 Does Silclear get the thumbs up from the Head-Fi Team Stax?_

 

These paste's work but you will always get better results upgrading the connectors. Upgrading any Stax amp with WBT Nextgens and better input wiring is not a subtle upgrade.


----------



## Quake1028

Any opinions on the Stax SRS-2050A system?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even though I'm happy enough to wield a soldering iron over my SR-Xs, I'm strangely nervous about daubing contact paste (if that's what it is?) over my electrical and electronic connectors. Plus, it has to be said, I'm reluctant to shell out $35 for Silclear if it's not much cop...

 Does Silclear get the thumbs up from the Head-Fi Team Stax?_

 

It's apparently not that hard to remove. This thread from audiogon discusses such issues, mostly pro, some cons. 

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...eyw&zzsilclear

 I would say be very careful applying it, and use sparingly, because it can scrape off tight connectors and drop into places you don't want. 

 Mapleshade suggests only applying to "male" parts! 

 I check plugs after initial insertion to make sure it has not got smeared.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...eyw&zzsilclear


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gloomfire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any opinions on the Stax SRS-2050A system?_

 

Best deal going for complete e-stat system, imo!

 I picked up an SRS-2020 (predecessor to SRS-2050A) a few years back, and still really enjoy it. The Lambda line seem a little bright now, after getting more used to the O2s, but I still listen to them a lot.

 Excellent value. I'd recommend them, especially for the price.


----------



## Quake1028

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Best deal going for complete e-stat system, imo!

 I picked up an SRS-2020 (predecessor to SRS-2050A) a few years back, and still really enjoy it. The Lambda line seem a little bright now, after getting more used to the O2s, but I still listen to them a lot.

 Excellent value. I'd recommend them, especially for the price._

 

Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. What would I need to play that system in the US if I bought it from Price Japan?


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gloomfire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. What would I need to play that system in the US if I bought it from Price Japan?_

 

A simple 100 to 117 step-up transformer for the AC. They might supply you with one (Audiocubes does). If not, you can find them from online electronics suppliers, maybe even from Radio Shack.

 Patrick


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gloomfire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. What would I need to play that system in the US if I bought it from Price Japan?_

 

Well, the 2020 system came with a cheesy little wall wart, designed to be used for 100V Japanese voltage. I'm pretty sure the 2050 sends the same DC supply. Mine is still in the original wrapping, tucked away in the Stax box. I am a big believer in giving solid state amps a decent voltage source with some headroom built in, and, frankly speaking, most wall warts are garbage. The amp deserves better. So, I'm using an older 12V 4 amp supply I had laying around here (fully regulated supply). That's the neat thing about the 2020/2050 system - an upgrade is as close as your parts bin or electronic supply shop. Just buy a decent power supply, and forget the wall wart. Your ears will thank you. Decent 12V power supplies can be had for less than 50 dollars. Shop around.
 One thing, though is very critical: the Stax amp uses the opposite plug polarity from most U.S. equipment, in that the tip is negative and the barrel is positive. It's imperative that you hook the amp up to the DC source correctly, otherwise you can seriously damage the amp. Just take the wall wart that's supplied with the amp into your elec. supply shop and get the same type plug/wire assembly, then wire it to a real 12V power supply according to the little diagram on the back of the amp, which I am pretty sure will show tip is negative (-). This is important!!
 Don't use wall warts with decent amps.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing, though is very critical: the Stax amp uses the opposite plug polarity from most U.S. equipment, in that the tip is negative and the barrel is positive. It's imperative that you hook the amp up to the DC source correctly, otherwise you can seriously damage the amp._

 

The 252A has a fuse (a 1.5A 3AG from memory) and if you put the polarity around the wrong way it will blow. I know, this happened to me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 While this doesn't sound so bad, the fuse is soldered to the circuit board so replacing it means opening the case including ripping off the soft feet to get at the screws underneath. Quite a pain, definitely get it right the first time.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's apparently not that hard to remove. This thread from audiogon discusses such issues, mostly pro, some cons. 

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...eyw&zzsilclear

 I would say be very careful applying it, and use sparingly, because it can scrape off tight connectors and drop into places you don't want. 

 Mapleshade suggests only applying to "male" parts! 

 I check plugs after initial insertion to make sure it has not got smeared._

 

Edstrelow: thanks for the link, very interesting. And it's put me off trying Silclear. I've got Naim gear, which uses DIN plugs and sockets, which don't lend themselves to easy application of anything, never mind a paste, and certainly won't be easy to clean again after 6 months.

 I could give it go on the mains supply plugs, but then again, one of my favourite activities is (admittedly only every few years!) shutting down my system and giving all the plugs a good polish. I love the improvement in sound that just a couple of hour's work gives, and it's free!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edstrelow: thanks for the link, very interesting. And it's put me off trying Silclear. I've got Naim gear, which uses DIN plugs and sockets, which don't lend themselves to easy application of anything, never mind a paste, and certainly won't be easy to clean again after 6 months.

 I could give it go on the mains supply plugs, but then again, one of my favourite activities is (admittedly only every few years!) shutting down my system and giving all the plugs a good polish. I love the improvement in sound that just a couple of hour's work gives, and it's free!_

 

I look at it this way. No matter how much I spend to improve my system, I will get more out of it when I use this type of tweak. And I may feel tha the weak is worth more than a very expensive equipment upgrade.

 My interpretation of the Audiogon thread is that some users feel a need to re-clean their contacts after 6 months to a year, other see no problem. I think the underlying issue is whether or not the contacts oxidize during that time. If you have gold contacts and they are clean before you put an enhancer on, then you will probably be allright. 

 Admittedly the DIN plugs would be a problem to clean. I would possibly recommend Progold because it is easier to apply and it has a cleaner in its formula. However Silclear is noticeably more effective. 

 Are the higher voltage systems used in homes in Britain as susceptible to power loss because of grim on power plugs?


----------



## ferrstein

A bit off topic, but still a Stax issue as far as I can tell...

 One of my Lambda Pros and my Sigmas both have bad cables. I need to hold my head still or move the cables around until I get sound. My Lambdas seem to be done on the right side... last time I listened I couldn't get any sound at all. I have a couple of questions to anyone with experience here:

 1. I can get a direct fit "basic series" 202 cable for $55, and a signature cable (I think it's a 404 cable) for $80, both from Yamasinc. Does anyone have experience with sonic comparisons between the two? Also, has anyone fit either one of these to a Sigma? I think the Sigma/404 thread mentions this was done, but I'd like some details on what I would need to do to get these cables to fit that model.

 2. Has anyone done any DIY for Stax cables? I'm thinking of something like the original Nordost flatline speaker cable. It has 8 conductors, which may be a fun experiment... or it could be trimmed down to 6 conductors. These are spaced rectangular conductors in a plastic sheath. Much like a ribbon cable. The stuff is unwieldy, but it may be good sonically. Also, has anyone found a suitable plug to use? I think Allied has the sockets, but I'm not sure about cord-mounted plugs.

 I know the voltages are high, but they aren't _that_ high. Of course, I'm used to feeding a 5 kV signal to my Acoustats, which pretty much relegates me to 10 kV test probe wire...

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A bit off topic, but still a Stax issue as far as I can tell...

 One of my Lambda Pros and my Sigmas both have bad cables. I need to hold my head still or move the cables around until I get sound. My Lambdas seem to be done on the right side... last time I listened I couldn't get any sound at all. I have a couple of questions to anyone with experience here:

 1. I can get a direct fit "basic series" 202 cable for $55, and a signature cable (I think it's a 404 cable) for $80, both from Yamasinc. Does anyone have experience with sonic comparisons between the two? Also, has anyone fit either one of these to a Sigma? I think the Sigma/404 thread mentions this was done, but I'd like some details on what I would need to do to get these cables to fit that model.

 2. Has anyone done any DIY for Stax cables? I'm thinking of something like the original Nordost flatline speaker cable. It has 8 conductors, which may be a fun experiment... or it could be trimmed down to 6 conductors. These are spaced rectangular conductors in a plastic sheath. Much like a ribbon cable. The stuff is unwieldy, but it may be good sonically. Also, has anyone found a suitable plug to use? I think Allied has the sockets, but I'm not sure about cord-mounted plugs.

 I know the voltages are high, but they aren't that high. Of course, I'm used to feeding a 5 kV signal to my Acoustats, which pretty much relegates me to 10 kV test probe wire...

 Thanks in advance!_

 

The oldest Sigmas (pre 1979) used the old crappy cloth covered cables but after that they used the Lambda cables. The new cables should be a drop in replacement. 

 Allied has both plugs and sockets that work but they are pretty low quality, nothing like the Stax stuff but they work just fine. I have built my own cables from scratch but beware of the insulation required. It's pretty hard to make a DIY cable as flexible as the Stax stuff. For insulation you should go for Teflon that is at least 3 mill's thick or more to be safe.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Hi everyone,

 I've been hesitant about asking this question on the public forums (I was more inclined to ask some by PM), but here is a question for those who have owned/heard Stax headphones. I'm am absolutely aware of the amateurism and almost somewhat pointlessness of my question, but I just wanted to get a feeling for people's opinions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It's a commonly asked question by new members of the boards, and often looked down upon, but here it goes:

 How would you rank or put in tiers the Stax earspeakers you have heard and/or owned based on how much _you_ _enjoy_ them? This is the common novice question of "Rank the headphones that you own", but this time a little more specific in that we're speaking of solely Stax cans ranked/tiered on _your_ personal enjoyment.

 Thanks so much everyone and cheers,
 Venio

 Edit: I'll also add my list below. As of now, I've only heard the SR-007,
 so I can't say much. I hope to hear more in the coming months.

 SR-007 Omega II (heard, truly awe-inspiring experience)
 SR-X MKIII


----------



## Duggeh

SR-007
 SR-202
 -gap-
 SR-001
 SR-3N

 Thats my enjoyment index.


----------



## thrice

SR-007 (heard but not owned)
 SR-Lambda Signature (own)
 SR-Lambda Pro (own)
 SR-Sigma Pro (heard)
 SR-202 (heard)
 SR-X/MKIII (own)
 SR-80 (owned)
 SR-001 (own)


----------



## Downrange

SR-007

 (Big gap)

 SR-202

 (Smaller gap)

 SR-001/003

 All owned.

 I've heard the 303s with SS amp, the 404s with tubes, and they're not worth the difference over the 202s, imo...

 Haven't heard any of the old junque


----------



## mirumu

SR-007 (own)
 4070 (heard)
 -gap-
 SR-X Mk3 (own)
 -larger gap-
 SR-003 (own)

 Despite owning the SR-404 I haven't heard it for more than 5 minutes yet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess sometime I'll get to hear Carl's Sigma Pro and Airbow SR-SC1. For now I'd rank the non-Stax HE60 electrostatic just below the 4070 but hearing them through a better amp could easily change that ordering.


----------



## audiod

SR-007 (heard)
 SR-Lambda Pro (own)
 SR-XmkIII (own)
 SR-Lambda (own)
 SR-202 (own)
 SR-5 w/SRX elements (own)
 SR-Sigma Pro (heard)
 SR-Lambda Pro Sig (owned)
 SR-404 (owned)
 SR-303 (owned)
 SR-Sigma (owned)



 All driven by a SRM-1mkII (except the SR-007 which was driven by a SRM-007t)

 The order changes a little depending on the drive unit (SRM-1mkII Pro, SRA-12s or SRD-7mkII.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2. Has anyone done any DIY for Stax cables? I'm thinking of something like the original Nordost flatline speaker cable. It has 8 conductors, which may be a fun experiment... or it could be trimmed down to 6 conductors. These are spaced rectangular conductors in a plastic sheath. Much like a ribbon cable. The stuff is unwieldy, but it may be good sonically. Also, has anyone found a suitable plug to use? I think Allied has the sockets, but I'm not sure about cord-mounted plugs._

 

Be careful when shopping for Nordost cables, some of them have _very_ high capactiance, as in their spec sheets list it using nanofarads instead of picofarads. Whether that much capacitance would be a problem with a dynamic speaker may be debateable, but it most certainly would be an issue with an electrostat.

 Stax's best cables themselves are pretty decent and hold up fairly well when compared to many boutique headphone cables, but they're certainly beatable if you have the money and shop around, look out for insulation and capacitance measurements in particular. I regard silver cables as working well with stats. It's a bit of a shame Stax doesn't supply silver cables as an option they way they did with their tonearms.


  Quote:


 How would you rank or put in tiers the Stax earspeakers you have heard and/or owned based on how much you enjoy them? This is the common novice question of "Rank the headphones that you own", but this time a little more specific in that we're speaking of solely Stax cans ranked/tiered on your personal enjoyment. 
 

The headphones in each tier aren't listed in quality order, just what came to mind first.

 Tier 1:
 HE60
 Omega II
 4070
 (assumedly Omega 1 and HE90)

 Tier 2:
 SR-X
 Sigma Pro
 ESP-950
 SC-1
 (assumedly Gamma Pro/Alpha)

 Tier 3:
 404
 003

 Tier 4:
 SR50


----------



## Downrange

Someone put up Lambda Pros with SRD-7 for a 350 buy-it-now, and by the time I got an alert, it was gone.

 I guess that's a pretty good price for that set-up, and, as I'm still in the market for and SRD-7, (and the Lambda Pros seem to be pretty highly regarded these parts) I'd probably have gone for it, but I was about 10 minutes too late.

 Amazing...


----------



## jpelg

Speaking of eBay, it seems at least a few people think highly enough of the Omega I's to escalate the going the price into the stratosphere (and I don't doubt that there will be a few here who agree). 

 The final price was an astounding $3651!

 Man, this hobby needs a reality check.


----------



## smeggy

SR-X Mk3
 SR-003
 Gamma
 SR-404


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## derekbmn

SR-007 (own)
 Lambda Pro (own)
 SR-404 (own)

 The Omega II by quite a large margin now as I slowly get these finicky beasts figured out. (ICs, tubes, etc) They are AMAZING but very picky .


----------



## jjcha

Had some transformer fun w/ lan today... 





 (there's a SRD-6 SB in the middle of that stack)






 Lots of moving pieces going on, with gear being added, warmed up, plugged in. Hard to say what we liked, tho lots of things sounded different. 

 I think lan may be becoming a fan of the SR-Lambda (normal biased) though. It's certainly one of my fav cans. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, HE60 with modded HEV70... quite an interesting sound. Not what I expected. Wished we also had an adapter to try it out of the SRD7 mk2...

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## derekbmn

Very cool pics ! It really is amazing to hear just how different amps can/do sound through stats.


----------



## Leporello

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007 (heard)
 SR-Lambda Pro (own)
 SR-202 (own)
 SR-XmkIII (own)
 SR-Sigma Pro (heard)
 SR-Lambda (own)
 SR-Lambda Pro Sig (owned)
 SR-5 w/SRX elements (own)
 SR-404 (owned)
 SR-303 (owned)
 SR-Sigma (owned)
_

 

Very impressive. I own the SR-303 and while I generally speaking like it, the upper midrange elevation or 'etch' sometimes annoys me.

 On simple 'brightness' scale, what are the SR-202 and Lambda Pro like compared to SR-303? 


 Regards,

 L.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would you rank or put in tiers the Stax earspeakers you have heard and/or owned based on how much you enjoy them?_

 

My ranking:
 SR-007 (Own)
 SR-Lambda Pro (Own)
 SR-404 (Heard)
 SR-X/MK3 (Own)
 SR-303 (Heard)
 SR-202 (Heard)
 S-001 MK2 (Owned)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Had some transformer fun w/ lan today... 

http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/minimeet1.jpg
 (there's a SRD-6 SB in the middle of that stack)

http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/minimeet2.jpg

 Lots of moving pieces going on, with gear being added, warmed up, plugged in. Hard to say what we liked, tho lots of things sounded different. 

 I think lan may be becoming a fan of the SR-Lambda (normal biased) though. It's certainly one of my fav cans. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh, HE60 with modded HEV70... quite an interesting sound. Not what I expected. Wished we also had an adapter to try it out of the SRD7 mk2...

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

More info on those amps. Big DHTs get me hot and bothered, you see.


----------



## EFN

Hi all. I am a complete noob when it comes to Electrostat. But I am curious.

 Can somebody describe to me how I can obliterate by already dying wallet to start a Stax rig. Nothing too stellar plz, leave room to spare some $ for me to buy foods and sundries
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Me guess is that one cannot just simply buy a Stax Electrostat and expect miracles to conjure yes? what else needed?

 TQ


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all. I am a complete noob when it comes to Electrostat. But I am curious.

 Can somebody describe to me how I can obliterate by already dying wallet to start a Stax rig. Nothing too stellar plz, leave room to spare some $ for me to buy foods and sundries
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Me guess is that one cannot just simply buy a Stax Electrostat and expect miracles to conjure yes? what else needed?

 TQ_

 

Well the good news is that you don't need some über-expensive 'stat to get good sound, the bad news is that you're going to need proper amplification no matter what headphone you choose.

 I'd recommend a transformer box paired with a decently powerful amp as the cheaper way to approach this, although there are other ways for the devoted to acheive the same results.


----------



## Tachikoma

Hey EFN. You can come audition my setup if you like... in 9 months time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-5 (the old white version) + a SRD-6/7 + any amp capable of 30W~, or the SR-001mk2 system is probably the cheapest way into stax land these days. Damn those rising prices for vintage systems :|


----------



## EFN

*Carl:*
 Thanks buddy. I will need to look for amp also of course. What sort of amp (or specifically which brand) would you recommend. And how about that "transformer" thing - whereabout can I find those?

*Tachikoma:*
 Yummy! I may as well pay you a visit earlier if you don't mind


----------



## spritzer

I judge headphones more for their musicality rather then outright performance. 

*Tier 1:* 
 Stax SR-007

*Tier 2:* 
 Sennheiser He90
 Sennheiser He60
 Sigma Pro
 Sigma
 SR-404
 SR-303
 Lambda Nova Signature
 Lambda Signature
 Lambda Pro
 Lambda
 Beyer Dynamic ET1000 (on a good day)
 SR-X Mk3 modded

*Tier 3: *
 SR-202
 SR-3
 SR-3 NEW
 SR-5
 SR-003
 SR-X Mk3. (unmodded)
 Suprex PEP-74 (modded)
 Micro Seiki MS-2
 Koss ESP6 modded
 Jecklin Float

*Tier 4:*
 Magnavox 1A9217
 Realistic HP-100
 SR-40
 SR-60
 SR-80
 SR-80 Pro
 Koss ESP9

 I'm barely awake so I've probably forgotten about some...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Carl:*
 Thanks buddy. I will need to look for amp also of course. What sort of amp (or specifically which brand) would you recommend._

 

It's just like shopping for an amp for anything else; pick one you like the sound of that's within your budget.

 If it was me it'd be a triode amp with no/minimal negitive-feedback, but that's just my tastes.

  Quote:


 And how about that "transformer" thing - whereabout can I find those? 
 

You'll have to get one off ebay/yahoo japan. The low bias ones are cheaper and more abundant, but aren't recommended for driving modern pro bias electrostats.

  Quote:


 Yummy! I may as well pay you a visit earlier if you don't mind
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 

He's studying in Australia right now.


----------



## Tachikoma

Hmm we're doing a stax headphone ranking thing eh

 Rank by how much I like them:
 SR-5NB
 SR-Gamma Pro
 SR-X mk3
 SR-303

 Take my ratings with a pinch of salt, I suspect that the SR-303 was badly underdriven in my (old) rig, and the SR-X mk3 ... well it isn't even working right now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-5NB at the top of the list loses out to the gamma pro for detail and neutrality, but the gamma pro's collective quibbles nearly had me pulling out my hair... so the SR-5NB takes the top spot in my likeability list =P

 I own the top 3 phones, had the SR-303 on loan for a month.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but the gamma pro's collective quibbles nearly had me pulling out my hair... so the SR-5NB takes the top spot in my likeability list =P_

 

Quibbles? What was wrong with them?


----------



## Tachikoma

Well, for starters, the membrane has a tendency to stick to the stators whenever I shift them around my head, and it doesn't unstick unless I discharge them. The channel balance would sometimes go whack until I open them up and re-adjust the membranes (I think thats the thing that fixes it), and finally there's that squeaky noise it makes sometimes.

 The squeaky noise issue I think, originates from the protective membranes being leaky - it disappeared for a while after I had it replaced with cleanwrap, but has recently made a comeback -_-

 In fairness the membranes of the SR-5NB sometimes sticks to the membrane, and I had to open them up once to fix the channel balance, but both issues have only occured once or twice during their time with me.


----------



## Carl

The sticking issue doesn't sound normal. Your little Sony amp shouldn't be able to put out enough juice to cause that.


----------



## spritzer

Stax headphones should never stick to the stators. The stators are unprotected in the older models and will burn through the diaphragm. Is the bias supply in your amp ok, because you can only do this to a normal biased headphone by feeding it Pro bias.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax headphones should never stick to the stators. The stators are unprotected in the older models and will burn through the diaphragm. Is the bias supply in your amp ok, because you can only do this to a normal biased headphone by feeding it Pro bias._

 

Someone may have put SR-5N/Gamma drivers in the Gamma Pro housing. That would cause things like that to happen.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I look at it this way. No matter how much I spend to improve my system, I will get more out of it when I use this type of tweak. And I may feel that the tweak is worth more than a very expensive equipment upgrade._

 

I agree, in general: some tweaks are a bargain (see below).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My interpretation of the Audiogon thread is that some users feel a need to re-clean their contacts after 6 months to a year, other see no problem. I think the underlying issue is whether or not the contacts oxidize during that time. If you have gold contacts and they are clean before you put an enhancer on, then you will probably be allright. 

 Admittedly the DIN plugs would be a problem to clean. I would possibly recommend Progold because it is easier to apply and it has a cleaner in its formula. However Silclear is noticeably more effective._

 

Mmm, the way I read the Audigon thread, it seemed there were those that had just used Silclear and were ecstatic, those that were fed up 6 months later, and those that were ecstatic, but waiting nervously to see what happened after six months!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the higher voltage systems used in homes in Britain as susceptible to power loss because of grim on power plugs._

 

I have no idea if there's power loss due to grime build-up, all I know is that there is a great improvement in sound quality when I polish up my mains plugs, in the HF in particular. If I paid £100 -150 to get the improvement another way, say by buying a new connector cable, I'd be happy with money well spent, so given it's free, I love it.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax headphones should never stick to the stators. The stators are unprotected in the older models and will burn through the diaphragm. Is the bias supply in your amp ok, because you can only do this to a normal biased headphone by feeding it Pro bias._

 

I'm pretty sure that my membranes (on both headphones) are alright o_o I've checked.

  Quote:


 The sticking issue doesn't sound normal. Your little Sony amp shouldn't be able to put out enough juice to cause that. 
 

Actually I'm using the SRD-X pro now, didn't bring the Sony with me to Australia. I think the sticking issue happened with the sony too, though.

  Quote:


 Someone may have put SR-5N/Gamma drivers in the Gamma Pro housing. That would cause things like that to happen. 
 

Didn't John Buchanan accidentally plug his normal bias headphones (a sigma I think) into a pro bias output once, and all he got was a loud screeching sound?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, won by the same guy who bought the last pair at $670. Damned collectors 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





._

 

No kidding! This is why I set my max bids on the safe side, and really just don't try that hard on Ebay. I figure if I win an auction for Lambda Pros for 500, I'll find a set in the pawn shop the next day for 50.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In fairness the membranes of the SR-5NB sometimes sticks to the membrane, and I had to open them up once to fix the channel balance, but both issues have only occured once or twice during their time with me._

 

Please tell me more: I've got a pair of SRX Mk3s where there's channel imbalance. I'd got the impression from previous remarks on this thread that this was terminal and was a sure sign that they dying...

 So what did you do to fix it?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Leporello* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very impressive. I own the SR-303 and while I generally speaking like it, the upper midrange elevation or 'etch' sometimes annoys me.

 On simple 'brightness' scale, what are the SR-202 and Lambda Pro like compared to SR-303? 
 L._

 

The Lambda Pro has the most well-balanced sound of the Lambda group IMO. I was looking for a extra set of Pro’s but the used prices are to high. I read that the 202 has a different element then the 303 or 404 (which are the same). I decided to give them a try. I purchased the phones only (normally their a set with a SRM) from Audio Cubes II. Their still breaking in, but so far I really like them. Some of the upper midrange brightness comes with pairing the 303 or 404 with the SRM-006t. They sound better on the SRM-1mkII Pro. On a upper midrange brightness scale of 1-10 and 5 being neutral I would give the Lambda Pro a 5, Lambda a 4, 202 a 6 and the 303/404 a 8.

 Audiod


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please tell me more: I've got a pair of SRX Mk3s where there's channel imbalance. I'd got the impression from previous remarks on this thread that this was terminal and was a sure sign that they dying...

 So what did you do to fix it?_

 

If it's just a dying connection to one of the bias supplies then it's fixable. Anything more exotic and you're in trouble.


----------



## Leporello

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro has the most well-balanced sound of the Lambda group IMO. I was looking for a extra set of Pro’s but the used prices are to high. I read that the 202 has a different element then the 303 or 404 (which are the same). I decided to give them a try. I purchased the phones only (normally their a set with a SRM) from Audio Cubes II. Their still breaking in, but so far I really like them. Some of the upper midrange brightness comes with pairing the 303 or 404 with the SRM-006t. They sound better on the SRM-1mkII Pro. On a upper midrange brightness scale of 1-10 and 5 being neutral I would give the Lambda Pro a 5, Lambda a 4, 202 a 6 and the 303/404 a 8.

 Audiod
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Just the kind of information I was looking for, thanks!


 Regards,

 L.


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro has the most well-balanced sound of the Lambda group IMO._

 

That's good to know. However, I still find that the highs, while not fatiguing, sometimes tend to sound grainy or harsh. They tend to lose detail in some music. Is this a characteristic of the headphone or is there something I can do in my system to tweak it to get a little more high end detail or shimmer?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a bit of a shame Stax doesn't supply silver cables as an option they way they did with their tonearms._

 

x2
 I would love to try a silver cable on my Omega II.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone put up Lambda Pros with SRD-7 for a 350 buy-it-now, and by the time I got an alert, it was gone.
 I guess that's a pretty good price for that set-up, and, as I'm still in the market for and SRD-7, (and the Lambda Pros seem to be pretty highly regarded these parts)_

 

If the phones are in good condition, that seems like a pretty good deal.

 By the way. I have a spare SRD-7, which I can always sell to you.
 The one to the left in this picture: SRD-7 Family

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Had some transformer fun w/ lan today... 





 (there's a SRD-6 SB in the middle of that stack)_

 

Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 What tube amplifiers did you use to drive the energizer?

 I have experimented a bit with speaker amplifiers and energizers myself, but so far only tested solid state amplifiers. Would like to test some tube amplifiers as well..


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Had some transformer fun w/ lan today... 

http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/minimeet1.jpg
 (there's a SRD-6 SB in the middle of that stack)

http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/minimeet2.jpg

 Lots of moving pieces going on, with gear being added, warmed up, plugged in. Hard to say what we liked, tho lots of things sounded different. 

 I think lan may be becoming a fan of the SR-Lambda (normal biased) though. It's certainly one of my fav cans. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, HE60 with modded HEV70... quite an interesting sound. Not what I expected. Wished we also had an adapter to try it out of the SRD7 mk2...

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

Whoa, my goodness. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Very nice there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Did any principles or ideas regarding different setups pop up in your mind? (i.e. what work kind of stuff work and what doesn't. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone put up Lambda Pros with SRD-7 for a 350 buy-it-now, and by the time I got an alert, it was gone.

 I guess that's a pretty good price for that set-up, and, as I'm still in the market for and SRD-7, (and the Lambda Pros seem to be pretty highly regarded these parts) I'd probably have gone for it, but I was about 10 minutes too late.

 Amazing..._

 

A Lambda Pro eh? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyone save the link to that auction?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone may have put SR-5N/Gamma drivers in the Gamma Pro housing. That would cause things like that to happen._

 

Yes it would. It isn't easy to check though unless you remove the membrane and put something that is exactly 1mm thick in it's place. If you can close the driver without any problems it is a Pro unit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that my membranes (on both headphones) are alright o_o I've checked.

 Didn't John Buchanan accidentally plug his normal bias headphones (a sigma I think) into a pro bias output once, and all he got was a loud screeching sound?_

 

If the mylar is sticking to the stators then there would be big holes. They aren't insulated so they will burn. I've played a normal headphone from a pro socket and they were fine but don't raise the volume to much. They are very loud even at low levels. 

 The only phone that has the stator sticking issue is the He90 and thats because the Sennheiser engineers played a bit too close to the fire. No Stax phone should ever do this under any circumstance. Did you use klingfilm as a dust cover? That might be causing some issues because it's behavior is wild compared to the stable mylar.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you use klingfilm as a dust cover? That might be causing some issues because it's behavior is wild compared to the stable mylar._

 

Klingfilm behaviour is always wild!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Klingfilm behaviour is always wild!




_

 

_You've got to lick it, before you kick it! You've got to make it soft and wet before you stick it!_


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's good to know. However, I still find that the highs, while not fatiguing, sometimes tend to sound grainy or harsh. They tend to lose detail in some music. Is this a characteristic of the headphone or is there something I can do in my system to tweak it to get a little more high end detail or shimmer?_

 

The SRM-1mkII Pro (for that matter all SRM's) sound a little grainy or harsh when first turned on. I listen a lot on weekends so I leave it on all weekend. If the unit gets too hot go to Radio Shack and get a little boxer fan. The interconnect cable also is important. I would consider some of the warmer balanced cables like Monster, Transparent, MIT. Music Fidelity makes a vacuum tube line buffer called a X-Can V3 that will add a nice bloom to your sound without loosing detail. It also has an extremely high input impedance that will not load down your source equipment. When the grain and harshness are removed the effect is more apparent detail and musicality. Hope this helps.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Klingfilm behaviour is always wild!





_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You've got to lick it, before you kick it! You've got to make it soft and wet before you stick it!



_

 

Hey, no bashing the klingfilm!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't John Buchanan accidentally plug his normal bias headphones (a sigma I think) into a pro bias output once, and all he got was a loud screeching sound?_

 

He did and it nearly gave me a heart attack - I have one of the earlier Stax extension cords - 5 pins male end and 6 pins female end, so it can accomodate all pro/non-pro phones and pro/non-pro sockets. Unfortunately made a mistake and plugged non-pro Sigma into pro socket - very loud high pitched screeching.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all. I am a complete noob when it comes to Electrostat. But I am curious.

 Can somebody describe to me how I can obliterate by already dying wallet to start a Stax rig. Nothing too stellar plz, leave room to spare some $ for me to buy foods and sundries
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Me guess is that one cannot just simply buy a Stax Electrostat and expect miracles to conjure yes? what else needed?

 TQ_

 

You are going to have to buy both phones and an amp. As regards using transformer boxes, be aware that Stax stopped making them about 10 years ago and instead sells only amps for their phones.

 I have long since got rid of my Stax SRD6 transformer so I am no longer able to make comparisons, but I didn't miss it, in spite of what I see as a flavor-of-the-month interest in them in this thread,

 The biggest problem with stat phones is that they are hard to drive and can lack dynamics compared to "dynamic" (i.e. magnetic driven phones) So the electrostatic clarity can come at a price. 

 It may be that the transformers, driven by the right amp can give dyanmics that many amps lack. My own solution is to tweak the amps, i.e. a better power cord, plug the amp straight into a wall socket rather than through a power strip, sorbethane feet and contact enhancers (Silclear preferred, or Progold). 

 Problems can also come from inadequacies of the sources. Stat phones can be very revealing of problems you would not have heard with dynamics. So you may end up replacing/tweaking sources as well. 

 Consider the dynamic ability of the source as well. One of my systems uses a DAC with its own separate power supply ( Musical Fidelity X-24K DAC and XPSU power supply) The XPSU gives the phones greater punch compared to its original power source since the X24-K is feeding directly into the Stax amp.

 I have just come off listening to an older Stax Lambda Nova driven by a SRM-3 amp, under the above conditions and it is just superb!. 

 At one time there were some good deals on older Stax on E-bay, but the prices there now for 20-30 year old items are often close to prices for new equipment bought directky from Japan. Check EIFL, Audiocubes or Price Japan and you may get a pleasant surprise. Warranties for imported equipment are dodgy but on the other hand Stax don't break down a lot, hence the trade in 20-30 year old equipment. I personally prefer EIFL because it will set up amps at the correct voltage for the US (US voltage is about 10% higher than in Japan). Audiocubes providesl step-down transformers for its amps.


----------



## Carl

Well looky here. vBulletin 3.6.5.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all. I am a complete noob when it comes to Electrostat. But I am curious.

 Can somebody describe to me how I can obliterate by already dying wallet to start a Stax rig_

 

2050A, hands down - nothing can touch it for the price (new stuff, here).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2050A, hands down - nothing can touch it for the price (new stuff, here)._

 

005II run off batteries?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well looky here. vBulletin 3.6.5._

 

Now with miracle _MultiQuote!_


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_005II run off batteries? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Battrees?? We don't need no stinkin' battrees!!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now with miracle MultiQuote!_

 

The previous version had multiquote too. It was just incognito.


----------



## Carl

Oh my god.


----------



## smeggy

Jeez, trying to navigate this site is getting ridiculous.

 Nice setup there Carl, I want one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Where did you find those pics?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jeez, trying to navigate this site is getting ridiculous.

 Nice setup there Carl, I want one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Where did you find those pics?_

 

Google. Seems that belongs to a Chinese/Taiwanese chap. 


 DMA-X1s! Wow.


----------



## derekbmn

Ok What the heck happend to this site !! It feels so.....strange ,and I fear change.
 On another note sweet picks you dug up there Carl.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Google. Seems that belongs to a Chinese/Taiwanese chap. 


 DMA-X1s! Wow._

 

Insane...

 But can it drive a SRD? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## Carl

By the way, I seem to have chanced apon a site selling a SRM-T2 (and a SRA-14S), but the prices would be best heard after sitting down and taking a long, deep breath.

 If you're after one for using (rather than collecting, preferably), PM and I'll linkage you. The prices are not for the feint of heart, however.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Insane...

 But can it drive a SRD? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason_

 

It'd probably deliver the best solid state amplification for a Omega II this side of a Burmeister.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have long since got rid of my Stax SRD6 transformer so I am no longer able to make comparisons, but I didn't miss it, in spite of what I see as a flavor-of-the-month interest in them in this thread._

 

Personally I think the interest in them is here to stay. The old STAX thread was full of talk about them as well.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I think the interest in them is here to stay. The old STAX thread was full of talk about them as well._

 

They make the most sense for those on a budget as the cheaper electrostat amps really could be better. If you've got real money to spend they just become one option amoung several.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_If the mylar is sticking to the stators then there would be big holes. They aren't insulated so they will burn. I've played a normal headphone from a pro socket and they were fine but don't raise the volume to much. They are very loud even at low levels._

 

So when a channel starts making "sticky" sounds and the music sounds like its being sucked into a vacuum, it isn't really the membrane sticking to the stator? :O (membranes were still perfectly intact last time I checked, and that wasn't too long ago.) 

 Maybe the protection you're referring to are in fact present in my headphones. After all both the gamma pro and SR-5NB stayed in production until the death of old stax.

 Oh and someone asked about channel imbalance in the SR-X being terminal... well in mine and evil-zen's experience, temporary channel imbalances seem to be quite common with stax's vintage line, and opening up the drivers to re-adjust the membranes always seems to fix the problem unless you have 4 huge holes in each membrane like my SR-X...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So when a channel starts making "sticky" sounds and the music sounds like its being sucked into a vacuum, it isn't really the membrane sticking to the stator? :O (membranes were still perfectly intact last time I checked, and that wasn't too long ago.) 

 Maybe the protection you're referring to are in fact present in my headphones. After all both the gamma pro and SR-5NB stayed in production until the death of old stax.

 Oh and someone asked about channel imbalance in the SR-X being terminal... well in mine and evil-zen's experience, temporary channel imbalances seem to be quite common with stax's vintage line, and opening up the drivers to re-adjust the membranes always seems to fix the problem unless you have 4 huge holes in each membrane like my SR-X..._

 

It should sound exactly like when you remove the plastic film from a piece of metal. This happens only to my He90 when I press them hard against my head and never in normal use

 Normal practice is to paint or powder cote the stators so if the mylar hits the stators it's insulated against direct contact. Stax has never done this because they are only running at max 60% bias voltage so this should not happen. Then there is a resistor or a viac crossing the stators that offers extra protection just in case. 

 All I know is that there is something seriously wrong with these headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If you could post some pics of the disassembled drivers next time you open them up I might be able to give you some answers. 

 Only 4 burned holes? Thats nothing! My Micro Seiki had 3 and 4 burn marks in each driver on top of the fact that the diaphragm was in tiny bits but they still made sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you have channel impalance go over all contacts and rotate the diaphragm inside the driver of a new contact. Some are terminal though, like one of my SR-3 New sets and need new diaphragms. It is relatively easy to put new diaphragms into these phones so don't throw them away. You could even make them better by using a thinner film. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, I seem to have chanced apon a site selling a SRM-T2 (and a SRA-14S), but the prices would be best heard after sitting down and taking a long, deep breath.

 If you're after one for using (rather than collecting, preferably), PM and I'll linkage you. The prices are not for the feint of heart, however.

 It'd probably deliver the best solid state amplification for a Omega II this side of a Burmeister._

 

I know of a T2 in Italy that has been for sale for at least 5 years and the price is just insane.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know of a T2 in Italy that has been for sale for at least 5 years and the price is just insane._

 

That's the one.

 I wonder if anyone have offered them something slightly more reasonable for it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the one.

 I wonder if anyone have offered them something slightly more reasonable for it?_

 

I was thinking about it some 3 years ago but I went with the Blue Hawaii instead. Didn't want to be stuck with an amp that has know faults and Stax maybe not willing or able to repair it. I still want one though but it should have had at least one normal bias output. Then it would have been perfect.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh and someone asked about channel imbalance in the SR-X being terminal... well in mine and evil-zen's experience, temporary channel imbalances seem to be quite common with stax's vintage line, and opening up the drivers to re-adjust the membranes always seems to fix the problem unless you have 4 huge holes in each membrane like my SR-X..._

 

Yes, Tachikoma, it was me asking about channel imbalance. I've opened up my SR-Xs to the point where I could solder the connections (to good effect), instead of the crimpers Stax used, but I don't know what you mean here: "opening up the drivers to re-adjust the membranes". Can you elaborate, please?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have channel impalance go over all contacts and rotate the diaphragm inside the driver of a new contact. Some are terminal though, like one of my SR-3 New sets and need new diaphragms. It is relatively easy to put new diaphragms into these phones so don't throw them away. You could even make them better by using a thinner film._

 

Spritzer, I'm sorry I don't understand this: "rotate the diaphragm inside the driver of a new contact". Can you also please elaborate?

 Also, I'm intrigued by your second option(s): how do I put in new diaphragms, and from where do is source them? Ditto for the thinner diaphragm idea, from where do I get these?

 I would dearly love to get these SR-Xs going again, as they're just sitting round in a box at the moment. Incidentally, there were occasions when I was using them that the imbalance seemed to reduce as I listened through them, but it could easily have been my mind adjusting to the imbalance. Certainly when I last tried them, the problem seemed worse...


----------



## thrice

On a related note I've got a pair of Sr-X/MK III whose right driver takes about 3 minutes to charge. When I first plug them in I get no sound from the right driver and full sound from the left. After 3 min. I get full sound from the right driver. There is no overall channel imbalance that I can hear, just that initial charge-up time. 

 Any ideas what's wrong and if it can be fixed?

 Thanks.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, Tachikoma, it was me asking about channel imbalance. I've opened up my SR-Xs to the point where I could solder the connections (to good effect), instead of the crimpers Stax used, but I don't know what you mean here: "opening up the drivers to re-adjust the membranes". Can you elaborate, please?



 Spritzer, I'm sorry I don't understand this: "rotate the diaphragm inside the driver of a new contact". Can you also please elaborate?

 Also, I'm intrigued by your second option(s): how do I put in new diaphragms, and from where do is source them? Ditto for the thinner diaphragm idea, from where do I get these?

 I would dearly love to get these SR-Xs going again, as they're just sitting round in a box at the moment. Incidentally, there were occasions when I was using them that the imbalance seemed to reduce as I listened through them, but it could easily have been my mind adjusting to the imbalance. Certainly when I last tried them, the problem seemed worse..._

 

See those jewelers screws on the side of the driver case? Unscrew them (be careful of cross-threading them), then gently 'flip the lid' and you'll get access to the diaphragm. Be careful of that thin bit of foil holding it together; your bias supply goes through that. Inspect, fiddle around with the spacer, do whatever you feel needs to be done to the driver, then reassemble it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I'm sorry I don't understand this: "rotate the diaphragm inside the driver of a new contact". Can you also please elaborate?

 Also, I'm intrigued by your second option(s): how do I put in new diaphragms, and from where do is source them? Ditto for the thinner diaphragm idea, from where do I get these?

 I would dearly love to get these SR-Xs going again, as they're just sitting round in a box at the moment. Incidentally, there were occasions when I was using them that the imbalance seemed to reduce as I listened through them, but it could easily have been my mind adjusting to the imbalance. Certainly when I last tried them, the problem seemed worse..._

 

The diaphragm is fitted to a metal ring and the the bias is connected to it with a spring. This is the only contact and something might have happened to it i.e. corrosion so if you rotate the diaphragm there will be a fresh contact point. 

 You can get 6um and 3um Mylar easily in small quantities from sites that specialize in Quad ESL repair but if you want to go any thinner you'll have to speak directly to DuPont and order some 750 meters of it. Then you need a resistive coating and good glue (no epoxy). Then you have to control the tension of the diaphragm and glue it to the metal rings. Once the glue is dried you cut the excess mylar away (very gently) and apply the coating either with sponge or airbrush it on. 

 This is just the big points and you WILL fail the first few times so this isn't a beginners project. You might even have to do a few test runs to get the exact tensioning Stax used because if you get that wrong they will sound very odd. Same goes for how resistive the coating has to be and there is no room for error because the mylar is very fragile and then you have to start again. This is also a very slow process. The glue I use takes 48 hours to fully cure and the coating is finally dry after about 3 days and then you have to break in the drivers to see if they are ok. It isn't simple in practice but if you are good with your hands it should be relatively easy. 

 You should always let old phones charge for 24 hours with music playing and see if that fixes the problem. it has done so for me in the past. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On a related note I've got a pair of Sr-X/MK III whose right driver takes about 3 minutes to charge. When I first plug them in I get no sound from the right driver and full sound from the left. After 3 min. I get full sound from the right driver. There is no overall channel imbalance that I can hear, just that initial charge-up time. 

 Any ideas what's wrong and if it can be fixed?

 Thanks._

 

There is probably a corroded contact somewhere that slows the voltage buildup. Try to open up the driver to make new pressure contacts. It might work.


----------



## mingde10467

What are those big gray boxes with the Stax logo on them in the photos posted on Carl's message 940? Thank you.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are those big gray boxes with the Stax logo on them in the photos posted on Carl's message 940? Thank you._

 

That's a pair of Stax DMA-X1 monoblock poweramps from 1987. 

 They were all-MOSFET designs that did up to 300W/8Ω and 1530W/1Ω in class A/B. I'm guessing that would have given around 40W/8Ω in class A.

 They're as rare as hen's teeth and and incredibly expensive (they cost 3 million yen for a pair in 1987, adjusted for inflation that's about $45,000!)


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a pair of Stax DMA-X1 monoblock poweramps from 1987. 

 They were all-MOSFET designs that did up to 300W/8Ω and 1530W/1Ω in class A/B. I'm guessing that would have given around 40W/8Ω in class A.

 They're as rare as hen's teeth and and incredibly expensive (they cost 3 million yen for a pair in 1987, adjusted for inflation that's about $45,000!)_

 

Oh my God! Stax DMA-X1s! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Freaking crazy.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The diaphragm is fitted to a metal ring and the the bias is connected to it with a spring. This is the only contact and something might have happened to it i.e. corrosion so if you rotate the diaphragm there will be a fresh contact point. 

 You can get 6um and 3um Mylar easily in small quantities from sites that specialize in Quad ESL repair but if you want to go any thinner you'll have to speak directly to DuPont and order some 750 meters of it. Then you need a resistive coating and good glue (no epoxy). Then you have to control the tension of the diaphragm and glue it to the metal rings. Once the glue is dried you cut the excess mylar away (very gently) and apply the coating either with sponge or airbrush it on. 

 This is just the big points and you WILL fail the first few times so this isn't a beginners project. You might even have to do a few test runs to get the exact tensioning Stax used because if you get that wrong they will sound very odd. Same goes for how resistive the coating has to be and there is no room for error because the mylar is very fragile and then you have to start again. This is also a very slow process. The glue I use takes 48 hours to fully cure and the coating is finally dry after about 3 days and then you have to break in the drivers to see if they are ok. It isn't simple in practice but if you are good with your hands it should be relatively easy. 

 You should always let old phones charge for 24 hours with music playing and see if that fixes the problem. it has done so for me in the past. 

 There is probably a corroded contact somewhere that slows the voltage buildup. Try to open up the driver to make new pressure contacts. It might work._

 

Spritzer: thanks for this. I shall give the first step a go, but I didn't realise when you wrote originally, "new diapharagms", that you meant DIY ones! I assumed you knew of some far-off place (probably in Japan) that could sell me new ones...

 It seems as though you're well versed in this black art, and have by now worked out what's good and what isn't: why don't you think about making them for others? (Although I suppose from what you've written, it's one of those things that takes so long, nobody would be prepared to pay for you for the time involved -- a bit like me knocking up a fancy DIN to Phono connecting lead, about 2 or 3 hours fiddling!)

 And thanks, too, to Carl for the tip about dis-assembling the SR-Xs just that little bit further than I've been prepared to go so far!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer: thanks for this. I shall give the first step a go, but I didn't realise when you wrote originally, "new diapharagms", that you meant DIY ones! I assumed you knew of some far-off place (probably in Japan) that could sell me new ones...

 It seems as though you're well versed in this black art, and have by now worked out what's good and what isn't: why don't you think about making them for others? (Although I suppose from what you've written, it's one of those things that takes so long, nobody would be prepared to pay for you for the time involved -- a bit like me knocking up a fancy DIN to Phono connecting lead, about 2 or 3 hours fiddling!)

 And thanks, too, to Carl for the tip about dis-assembling the SR-Xs just that little bit further than I've been prepared to go so far!_

 

There is maybe about an hour or two that is invested in each membrane stretched over 5 days so it isn't that much work. The main obstacle is the Icelandic customs. Nothing gets past them without getting a 50% tax and handling fees added to it so it simply isn't cost effective. There are ways past this but I'm in enough trouble with them already... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If somebody has a broken SR-Omega I'll fix them though


----------



## ferrstein

Dood, seriously:







 Those Jensen capacitors are insanely expensive. Is that an isolation transformer? I've never been a fan of power filtration, but that looks like a novel effort!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is probably a corroded contact somewhere that slows the voltage buildup. Try to open up the driver to make new pressure contacts. It might work._

 

How does one open the driver housing?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my god.






_

 

 I see a Stax SRA12S Preamp/Headphone amp here too.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I think the interest in them is here to stay. The old STAX thread was full of talk about them as well._

 

My main point is that a noob should be informed that transformers are an old technique, no longer made by Stax itself.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My main point is that a noob should be informed that transformers are an old technique, no longer made by Stax itself._

 

Old =/= bad. Stax didn't make money off transformer boxes, and like lots of great things that they didn't make money off, they stopped being made after the company shakeup in th 90s.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one open the driver housing?_

 

See Carl's post (#954) for details on how to get at the diaphragms, assuming you've already removed the earpads (and the aluminium casings to which they're stuck!). (Er, also assuming you're asking about SR-Xs!)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one open the driver housing?_

 

They are held together by small pins, 4 I think, on the side of the driver. I use a knives edge to lift them out. Then the inner part of the plastic housing should be loose and it should slide out taking the membrane with it. Be aware that there are small springs inside to provide some extra tension so make sure you don't loose them. 

 You should also remove the screw for the front stator (the wire goes around the edge to the front of the driver) and lift it up and away. If the wire breaks its not easy to put in another one so don't break it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My main point is that a noob should be informed that transformers are an old technique, no longer made by Stax itself._

 

Sure it's old but thats not why Stax stopped making them. Back in the day it was the simple way to add a transformer to an existing stereo system but today everything is line level so stand alone amp is a much simpler way. I'm not saying that the transformers are better, because they aren't but they are better then the cheaper Stax amps. The SRM-313 is so shockingly bad and annoying that I gave it to my brother and use the SRD-7 Mk2 instead for testing phones under repair and new untested arrivals. The transformers sins are those of omission so they don't add the hard edge the budget amps do.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Old =/= bad. Stax didn't make money off transformer boxes, and like lots of great things that they didn't make money off, they stopped being made after the company shakeup in th 90s._

 

Stax went bankrupt in 1995 so it wasn't making money on its entire line. It dropped pre and power amps, DAC's, tone arms, cartridges, cd players and a few other things but stayed with headphones and the means to drive them. 

 I would suggest that if the Stax people felt that transformers were good they would have kept building them Transformers were much cheaper than amps and if you are trying to expand your sales of headphones it makes no sense to require purchasers to buy the more expensive amps, especially if they are actually worse performers.

 Whether transformers are better or worse than amps, a noob should be told they were dropped by Stax in preference to amps. 

 Maybe one day we can tempt some senior Stax people to give their version.


----------



## smeggy

HEY NOOBS, STAX DON'T MAKE NO TRANSFORMERS NO MORE!!!

 even though many of us likes them more than their cheaper amps


----------



## spritzer

The bottom line for me is simple. Take any vintage amp and hook up a 50$ transformer and you have a much more musical setup then with any of the cheaper Stax amps. Transformers aren't always the devil and when done right can be much more musically satisfying. There are no absolutes in this and while I prefer dedicated amps by a mile but the transformers are an easy and cheap way to get into Stax with very few drawbacks.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bottom line for me is simple. Take any vintage amp and hook up a 50$ transformer and you have a much more musical setup then with any of the cheaper Stax amps. Transformers aren't always the devil and when done right can be much more musically satisfying. There are no absolutes in this and while I prefer dedicated amps by a mile but the transformers are an easy and cheap way to get into Stax with very few drawbacks._

 

Would you say that you've personally heard some transformer setups that are 
 more satisfying than your Blue Hawaii?

 And yes, as a Stax noob, I will be taking the transformers road as well. Until
 something crazy thing happens. Like winning the lottery.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bottom line for me is simple. Take any vintage amp and hook up a 50$ transformer and you have a much more musical setup then with any of the cheaper Stax amps. Transformers aren't always the devil and when done right can be much more musically satisfying. There are no absolutes in this and while I prefer dedicated amps by a mile but the transformers are an easy and cheap way to get into Stax with very few drawbacks._

 

Yes, and you can use a generic amplifier for purposes other than driving Stax headphones as well. I'd rather have one great amp than two so-so ones. I don't think for a moment that anyone using transformers is saying that there's something wrong with the sound out of the ES-1, Blue Hawaii, etc and that a transformer is necessarily better.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would you say that you've personally heard some transformer setups that are 
 more satisfying than your Blue Hawaii?

 And yes, as a Stax noob, I will be taking the transformers road as well. Until
 something crazy thing happens. Like winning the lottery._

 

You've totally missed my point. The transformers are crap compared to the Blue Hawaii, pure utter crap. They lack all of the macro and micro dynamics and detail retrieval that makes the BH so great. The effortless power and the way instruments and voices just appear out of the immense blackness in the background. You can not beat an OTL amp even though some might prefer transformers.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You've totally missed my point. The transformers are crap compared to the Blue Hawaii, pure utter crap. They lack all of the macro and micro dynamics and detail retrieval that makes the BH so great. The effortless power and the way instruments and voices just appear out of the immense blackness in the background. You can not beat an OTL amp even though some might prefer transformers._

 

Hehe point taken.


----------



## smeggy

Yeah, I haven't heard any good stat amps so my prefs of transformers over amps is based solely on the low end. Just to be clear.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_Sure it's old but thats not why Stax stopped making them. Back in the day it was the simple way to add a transformer to an existing stereo system but today everything is line level so stand alone amp is a much simpler way. I'm not saying that the transformers are better, because they aren't but they are better then the cheaper Stax amps. The SRM-313 is so shockingly bad and annoying that I gave it to my brother and use the SRD-7 Mk2 instead for testing phones under repair and new untested arrivals. The transformers sins are those of omission so they don't add the hard edge the budget amps do._

 

There are many variables to this discussion, not least of which is that the nature of how most listen to music has changed dramatically in the two decades since Stax stopped making their transformers. Up until that point, it was understood that all "serious" music listeners had good amps to drive their speakers -- there was no other alternative, as dedicated headphone setups simply didn't exist. Given that environment, it made a great deal of sense for Stax to create and sell simple transformer boxes to drive their headphones. The resulting sound quality would scale up depending on how good your amp was, with the transformer box doing its best just to stay the hell out of the way.

 Times have changed, so much so that my guess is that the majority of the folks on this site don't have a serious non-headphone amp. For those, the best way into the Stax game is clearly via the dedicated amp route -- while it isn't the greatest thing out there, the SRM-313 is an excellent choice given its relatively low price on the used market. For anyone who already has a good beefy amp though, the SRD-7 Pro and its variants are a no-brainer. As entertaining as it is, I'm not sure why this whole argument about which is better even exists, since I think it's entirely system dependent. Given my setup, the SRD-7 Pro blows away the SRM-313 by such a large margin that there isn't any comparison. That said, I certainly don't think that everyone should run out and get a transformer box -- in fact, it wouldn't surprise me at all if some people would be entirely unimpressed with the performance -- in that case, the fault wouldn't lie as much with the transformer box as it would with what's feeding it.


----------



## patrickamory

Yay! No more scrolling all the way to the right to get to the next page number.

 Let's hit 1000 posts folks. Tomorrow?

 Patrick


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRM-1mkII Pro (for that matter all SRM's) sound a little grainy or harsh when first turned on. I listen a lot on weekends so I leave it on all weekend. If the unit gets too hot go to Radio Shack and get a little boxer fan. The interconnect cable also is important. I would consider some of the warmer balanced cables like Monster, Transparent, MIT. Music Fidelity makes a vacuum tube line buffer called a X-Can V3 that will add a nice bloom to your sound without loosing detail. It also has an extremely high input impedance that will not load down your source equipment. When the grain and harshness are removed the effect is more apparent detail and musicality. Hope this helps.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

That's a big help, actually. I usually have the amp on all the time. It doesn't seem to get too hot. The amp has a lot of headroom so heat doesn't collect.

 When you say balanced cables, what exactly does that mean? Wouldn't you just use standard left/right interconnects? My source isn't balanced. I'll have to look into that a little more. I was thinking about trying different interconnects as I've been told before they can make a difference in this kind of system. It's just hard to know what cables to buy and I'm not sure I have the time to experiment with a bunch of different cables. This has somewhat paralyzed me. Currently, I have a pair of Golden Raincoats. They seem to be of decent quality but I'm not quite sure how they contribute to the sound.

 The X-Can V3 sounds like an interesting option that I'll look into further. I also seem to remember, way back when at the beginning of this thread that somebody suggested using a pre-amp. Can someone explain to me why a preamp would be necessary or at all desireable in a headphone rig? I know why it would be needed with a turntable but why bother when you have a perfectly good amp?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax went bankrupt in 1995 so it wasn't making money on its entire line. It dropped pre and power amps, DAC's, tone arms, cartridges, cd players and a few other things but stayed with headphones and the means to drive them. 

 I would suggest that if the Stax people felt that transformers were good they would have kept building them Transformers were much cheaper than amps and if you are trying to expand your sales of headphones it makes no sense to require purchasers to buy the more expensive amps, especially if they are actually worse performers.

 Whether transformers are better or worse than amps, a noob should be told they were dropped by Stax in preference to amps. 

 Maybe one day we can tempt some senior Stax people to give their version._

 

Spot-on post. I talked with Tats at Yamas about this very issue. His take was that Stax deliberately moved away from transformer boxes, and towards a better solution. In the eighties, most people were running a Sansui receiver, or whatever, and Stax needed a way to get these great headphones into their living rooms. Hence, the cheapo solution - crank out a bias box with high impedence transformer so Joe Q can afford some decent sound. No doubt, the Stax 'phones of that era blew away most of those old Cerwin Vegas, driven from the same receivers. 
 It's a new day, and Stax has for some time now been marketing amps designed to price points that match the various models of headphones. The little SRM-212 that came with my 202s does a very credible job, for example. I'd be very surprised to see a pro Stax transformer, driven by a mid-priced amp, come anywhere close to a SRM-007tII driving Omega IIs (Not to mention the after market alternatives, like the KGSS and BH). But, I'm still trying to acquire said transformer, just to satisfy myself about this. If I find out differently, I'll be happy to report back to that effect.
 I think there is a really large bias in this forum, perpetuated by a few vocal members, to the effect that the old stuff is somehow "better" than the new. I haven't seen anything yet to validate that position, save the raves for the original Omegas (and associated stratospheric pricing, whenever they appear.) If the original Omegas were so great, I suspect Stax would still be making them!
 The bias (pun intended) towards all things OLD in Staxen-land, in my view, has done little but encourage collectors (read: hoarders) and push Ebay prices sky-high on the "moldy old junque," as I term it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 675 bucks for a Lambda Pro headset with SRD-7 Pro... ya gotta be kiddin' me!
 I say go with new stuff! Our kids will be here in twenty years talking about how great it was!


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I say go with new stuff! Our kids will be here in twenty years talking about how great it was! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They certainly won't be talking about my SR-X, they're going with me to the grave.


----------



## mirumu

I'm not sure why the transformer vs dedicated amp debate is such a big issue, it's not like we can only have one or the other. I've certainly not seen a bias here suggesting you can achieve the best sound by using transformer boxes instead of dedicated amps. Quite the opposite. I'd agree there's a bias when a number of posters start indicating that their SRD-7 Pros with a power amp sound better than the ES-1 and there's no sign of that yet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes, some of us say good things about the transformer boxes but I know personally I've had some very positive results with them and it seems others have too. Adding a transformer in the signal path is clearly less than ideal from a technical standpoint, I don't think anyone would suggest otherwise. The advantage is the lower cost and flexibility they provide. Their price performance is very good as spritzer pointed out. I'm as against the idea of pushing up the prices as anyone but clearly if the price goes up then there'd be even fewer reasons to buy a transformer box over a dedicated amp.

 As to the new being better than the old, I don't think that as a blanket statement is particularly valid. Stax don't make the T2 any more but is that because they think the SRM-007tII ultimately _sounds_ better? When it comes to the Lambda Pro many seem to prefer them to the modern equivalent, the SR-404, as well. We have both the new and old available to us and neither is completely good or bad. I see no problem in taking the best elements of both new and old where appropriate. 

 I appreciate the reasons Stax moved away from transformers and it's understandable given technical reasons and the modern climate but what we're offered is very much a "one size fits all" solution and an expensive one for those not willing to jump in an get a complete system from the get go.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 It should sound exactly like when you remove the plastic film from a piece of metal. This happens only to my He90 when I press them hard against my head and never in normal use 
 

Yeup, thats exactly how it sounds, and pressing them hard against my head can cause that to happen.

 I'm not going to open up my drivers right now just to get a pic or two, but I remember that while there weren't any problems with the membranes, the gamma pro's stators had "burn" marks on it - probably from the sticking? The SR-X's stators had even more severe looking burn marks especially around the membrane holes, but I didn't bring them with me to Australia.

 About the sticking: I didn't mean that it happens during normal use - it just happens when I move the headphones around my ear, or even when I take them off.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whether transformers are better or worse than amps, a noob should be told they were dropped by Stax in preference to amps._

 

But that decision was governed by money, not sound. Stax no longer make intergrated preamp/headphone amp combos, either, we'll never see a SRA-16S, but that decision wasn't governed by sound quality, either.

 People aren't recommending transformer boxes because they're loopy, they haven't been inducted into a cult. With a good amp behind them they can be audibly superior to Stax's cheaper amps. That doesn't of course mean that people should be told that they're outright better in all cases, but there isn't anything wrong with saying that they _can_ be better as a number of us have proven just that with our ears.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can not beat an OTL amp even though some might prefer transformers._

 

Assuming we're talking about a good quality transformer with a 1:1 turns ratio, I'll have to respectfully disagree with you there. Interstage transformers are hard to beat for stability and musical 'rightness'. If you're talking about transformers with big stepup ratios, then I agree. Most negative comments about transformers come from bad experiences with cheap, old transformers or from using ones with large turns ratios.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are many variables to this discussion, not least of which is that the nature of how most listen to music has changed dramatically in the two decades since Stax stopped making their transformers. Up until that point, it was understood that all "serious" music listeners had good amps to drive their speakers -- there was no other alternative, as dedicated headphone setups simply didn't exist. Given that environment, it made a great deal of sense for Stax to create and sell simple transformer boxes to drive their headphones. The resulting sound quality would scale up depending on how good your amp was, with the transformer box doing its best just to stay the hell out of the way._

 

And Stax started to heavily target professional markets about that time. Big intergrated amps or transformer boxes that need to be paired with poweramps aren't really practical when you're at a mixing desk whereas something like the SRM-1 is much more realistic.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You've totally missed my point. The transformers are crap compared to the Blue Hawaii, pure utter crap. They lack all of the macro and micro dynamics and detail retrieval that makes the BH so great. The effortless power and the way instruments and voices just appear out of the immense blackness in the background. You can not beat an OTL amp even though some might prefer transformers._

 

Spritzer , I'm curious as to what amp/transformer combos you have heard over the years ? If the Blue Hawaii is that much better than what im hearing now THAN WOW......JUST WOW. I've spent the last month tweaking my transformer setup for strictly using the OII with it and at this point it's simply mindblowing.The instruments and vocals are there floating in front of me and the phones themselves gone. But it did take some time to get to that point and some serious tube, IC and power cord rolling. Thank's for pushing a BH in my future.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 (If I could find one)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeup, thats exactly how it sounds, and pressing them hard against my head can cause that to happen.

 I'm not going to open up my drivers right now just to get a pic or two, but I remember that while there weren't any problems with the membranes, the gamma pro's stators had "burn" marks on it - probably from the sticking? The SR-X's stators had even more severe looking burn marks especially around the membrane holes, but I didn't bring them with me to Australia.

 About the sticking: I didn't mean that it happens during normal use - it just happens when I move the headphones around my ear, or even when I take them off._

 

I'm baffled by why this is happening. One reason it that the mylar has lost some of it's tension and/or somebody put in new diaphragms with out tensioning them correctly. They will still play normally so it is hard to spot. An easy fix if the mylar is a bit to "saggy" is to take a heatgun and heat them for about a second 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Assuming we're talking about a good quality transformer with a 1:1 turns ratio, I'll have to respectfully disagree with you there. Interstage transformers are hard to beat for stability and musical 'rightness'. If you're talking about transformers with big stepup ratios, then I agree. Most negative comments about transformers come from bad experiences with cheap, old transformers or from using ones with large turns ratios._

 

I would take a good interstage transformer over nearly any cap any day but this changes with output transformers. There are some very good ones out there but there is also a lot of bad ones. With Stax there is no need for the extra transformer so it should sound better given the fact that the amp is properly designed. Then there is the big question whether you like that sound. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer , I'm curious as to what amp/transformer combos you have heard over the years ? If the Blue Hawaii is that much better than what im hearing now THAN WOW......JUST WOW. I've spent the last month tweaking my transformer setup for strictly using the OII with it and at this point it's simply mindblowing.The instruments and vocals are there floating in front of me and the phones themselves gone. But it did take some time to get to that point and some serious tube, IC and power cord rolling. Thank's for pushing a BH in my future.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 (If I could find one)_

 

About 2.5 years ago I had a SRD-7 Pro (I still own it but I don't think I'm ever going to get it back) and I tried it on a number of amps that some local audiophiles had. I preferred the BH by a mile but the transformer had some redeeming quality's especially when compared to the SRM-313, notably more power and not those hard edged highs. Back then I tested it with a CAT JL-1, some AN UK SET's, one of the older Pass Labs and my highly modified ST-70 and Audio Analogue Puccini. I know use it with an old Kenwood KA-8100 because it has lot of good features for trouble shooting and it doesn't sound all that bad.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would take a good interstage transformer over nearly any cap any day but this changes with output transformers. There are some very good ones out there but there is also a lot of bad ones. With Stax there is no need for the extra transformer so it should sound better given the fact that the amp is properly designed. Then there is the big question whether you like that sound._

 

Well an output transformer is basically just a large ratio stepdown transformer (well, roughly), which isn't much better than a stepup transformer. The best way to use transformers is with 1:1 ratios, and doing current/voltage/impedance conversion other ways (except negative feedback, which to my ears is even worse). With electrostats (headphones at least), with their high impedances you can use 1:1 output transformers and avoid all these issues but still get the stability and precise phase-matching transformers offer. Of course, this is all assuming that good transformers are used, there are a lot of bad ones out there.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ With Stax there is no need for the extra transformer so it should sound better given the fact that the amp is properly designed. Then there is the big question whether you like that sound. _

 

Your post got me thinking about the "adjustment process" I've gone through with the Omega IIs, coming from the Lambdas.
 I think it's easy to get used to a "forward" sound, and sense that's the way music should be. My experience with the Lambdas is that they reflect that "forward" orientation. They bring the upper mids closer to my ears, not screechy or piercing, just more present. It's an exciting sound. When I first started listening to the O2s, I was a bit disappointed, missing that exciting forward sound I'd grown used to. It took me several days to realize I was gradually re-educating my aural perception away from the forward slant of those Lambdas. After a few weeks, that re-education process is complete, and when I put them on, I "relax into" the Omegas with a sigh of relief. The ears are not "assaulted" with the music; it is more like the natural presentation of a live accoustic event.
 So, now, when I use the Lambdas, they are still enjoyable for many kinds of music (if not very transparent), but I can't wait to get back to the Omegas. My aural perception has adjusted away from the unnatural forward presentation, and they don't involve me as much. 
 So, perception is a big part of the whole experience, here. I think people can really underestimate just how much of a swing occurs when they finally obtain a natural-sounding product. The second thing that was surprising to me was the amount of time it took to re-calibrate my perception; not a few hours, but closer to a week. Just some observations on how perception and judgement about things in this realm are not really fixed, but can shift.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Frankly, I'm surprised there hasn't been more comparison of the pure economics of the choices, which I feel is vital to this discussion. I think we need to keep a relative perspective or we run the risk of veering off into crazy talk -- straight-up comparison of an SRD-7 Pro with a super-high-end dedicated amp (ES-1, Blue Hawaii, etc.) is just insane! Some folks are reacting to what they perceive as high prices for "old" equipment. What is crystal clear to me is that given the rest of my gear, the SRD-7 Pro is worth a lot more to me than the SRM-313 is. After listening to both, I gladly would trade that particular amp for that transformer box, and happily throw in some cash in addition. That statement applies to my system, and I'm well aware that it may not apply to others with different gear. With the right amp driving it, however, the pro transformer boxes are still undervalued in relative terms. I think that's the key -- no one should be arguing in absolute terms here -- if someone's gonna spend thousands to drive their Stax, then clearly the big boys take over the game.

 However, I think the argument is a little different when applied to the Lambda Pro, which has been selling for what some feel are overly robust prices. I find mine to be on a roughly equivalent level with the 404's, with some more appealing features depending on personal preferences. Personally, I reach more often for the Lambda Pro's than I do for the 404's. I also think their black color is more appealing than the brown. That said, I wouldn't be mortgaging the farm for a set. The prices we're now seeing (b/t $300 and $500 depending on condition) seem to reflect their relative rarity more than being a statement of how much better they are than the 404's.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Frankly, I'm surprised there hasn't been more comparison of the pure economics of the choices, which I feel is vital to this discussion. I think we need to keep a relative perspective or we run the risk of veering off into crazy talk -- straight-up comparison of an SRD-7 Pro with a super-high-end dedicated amp (ES-1, Blue Hawaii, etc.) is just insane! Some folks are reacting to what they perceive as high prices for "old" equipment. What is crystal clear to me is that given the rest of my gear, the SRD-7 Pro is worth a lot more to me than the SRM-313 is. After listening to both, I gladly would trade that particular amp for that transformer box, and happily throw in some cash in addition. That statement applies to my system, and I'm well aware that it may not apply to others with different gear. With the right amp driving it, however, the pro transformer boxes are still undervalued in relative terms. I think that's the key -- no one should be arguing in absolute terms here -- if someone's gonna spend thousands to drive their Stax, then clearly the big boys take over the game.

 However, I think the argument is a little different when applied to the Lambda Pro, which has been selling for what some feel are overly robust prices. I find mine to be on a roughly equivalent level with the 404's, with some more appealing features depending on personal preferences. Personally, I reach more often for the Lambda Pro's than I do for the 404's. I also think their black color is more appealing than the brown. That said, I wouldn't be mortgaging the farm for a set. The prices we're now seeing (b/t $300 and $500 depending on condition) seem to reflect their relative rarity more than being a statement of how much better they are than the 404's._

 

Good points. Part of the economics of all this has to do with how people are using their equipment. Some 20 years ago, I assembled a fairly high-end two channel analog system (well, I did have a CD player). I still have most of that equipment, but my amp is now a multi-channel affair, driven by a controller, rather than an Audio Research preamp, and I've added more Maggies for the rear channels, etc.. It is used mainly for 5.1 home theater, plus a little surround sound processing for background music using 2-channel sources. My serious 2-channnel listening has migrated to headphones. It's just too expensive to justify the needed speakers and amps that can equal the presentation of really good headphones.
 So, when you figure in the cost of amplification to the cost of a transformer box, the equation starts to get more even. An SRD-7 with pro bias may cost 150 bucks used; a really decent amplifier for that is going to cost at least several hundred more, and, arguably, to get sound that is truly good you'd need to spend more than that, especially for new stuff. So, if you're into a grand or more, you've got to start comparing this system with the better Stax dedicated amps, like the 727, or even the 007t. I don't think you have to go to the Blue Hawaii/ES-1 spending levels to realize improvements over transformers with good amps. I'm looking forward to finding or borrowing a Stax box to test my theory, but I'd be very surprised if the "break-even point" isn't somewhere around a grand to fifteen hundred bucks. By that I mean, spending the same for the box plus amp as the dedicated headphone amp, you reach diminishing returns pretty quickly. Certainly, no one has come on here (that I recall) and said their SRD-7/amp combo has beaten a KGSS with their O2s.

 I'm going to make it a point to go to more flea markets this year, as they seem to be a very likely place to pick up some of this old moldy stuff to test out, without paying the ebay Stax hysteria premiums.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, when you figure in the cost of amplification to the cost of a transformer box, the equation starts to get more even. An SRD-7 with pro bias may cost 150 bucks used; a really decent amplifier for that is going to cost at least several hundred more, and, arguably, to get sound that is truly good you'd need to spend more than that, especially for new stuff. So, if you're into a grand or more, you've got to start comparing this system with the better Stax dedicated amps, like the 727, or even the 007t. I don't think you have to go to the Blue Hawaii/ES-1 spending levels to realize improvements over transformers with good amps. I'm looking forward to finding or borrowing a Stax box to test my theory, but I'd be very surprised if the "break-even point" isn't somewhere around a grand to fifteen hundred bucks. By that I mean, spending the same for the box plus amp as the dedicated headphone amp, you reach diminishing returns pretty quickly. Certainly, no one has come on here (that I recall) and said their SRD-7/amp combo has beaten a KGSS with their O2s._

 

Yes, precisely, agreed on all points. Keep in mind though that the logic that Stax was applying back in the day was that the headphones were most often the accessory to the main system, not necessarily the main system itself as it so often has become these days. I concur with your estimate of a breakeven point somewhere in the $1000-$1500 range -- I don't know though what an Aleph 30 costs these days in the used market, but that might be a fine choice. I'm very pleased with the job my Sugden gear does, but don't often see their power amps on the used market. That said though, I don't think many folks here are advocating that anyone specifically run out and purchase a power amplifier specifically to drive a transformer box (although my suggestion would be to go with pure Class A in that case). Rather, the economics only pays off if you already have (or want to have) a better two-channel speaker system. A key consideration is the extra flexibility afforded by such a setup -- toss in some extra money for good speakers and you've got something that will do a lot more than just drive some cans. Unlike most of the posters here on head-fi, I listen far more to my speaker system than I do to my headphones. Given that, there's just no way for me to justify the large expense that would be required to give more than the basic SRD-7 Pro box already provides. I approach my audio purchases with an eye on the gear I already have, instead of thinking along the lines of starting from scratch.

 Regarding your search, PM me. It's spring cleaning, so time for me to pare down some of the extra gear I've accumulated in recent months. This includes a backup SRD-7 Pro box that I could be persuaded to find a loving home for. [No more PM's on the SRD-7 Pro, please. They've found a new home already.] I'll probably list my SRM-313/SR-303 combo on the FS board soon too, along with a backup pair of Lambda Pro's.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I don't know though what an Aleph 30 costs these days in the used market, but that might be a fine choice. I'm very pleased with the job my Sugden gear does, but don't often see their power amps on the used market. That said though, I don't think many folks here are advocating that anyone specifically run out and purchase a power amplifier specifically to drive a transformer box (although my suggestion with be to go with pure Class A in that case)._

 

I'm using a Aleph 3 (clone) and will say it again ,there is SERIOUS synergy with the Pass Amps. Pure Class A seems to be the way to go as far as amplification (to these ears).With tube or hybrid preamplification.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your post got me thinking about the "adjustment process" I've gone through with the Omega IIs, coming from the Lambdas.
 I think it's easy to get used to a "forward" sound, and sense that's the way music should be. My experience with the Lambdas is that they reflect that "forward" orientation. They bring the upper mids closer to my ears, not screechy or piercing, just more present. It's an exciting sound. When I first started listening to the O2s, I was a bit disappointed, missing that exciting forward sound I'd grown used to. It took me several days to realize I was gradually re-educating my aural perception away from the forward slant of those Lambdas. After a few weeks, that re-education process is complete, and when I put them on, I "relax into" the Omegas with a sigh of relief. The ears are not "assaulted" with the music; it is more like the natural presentation of a live accoustic event.
 So, now, when I use the Lambdas, they are still enjoyable for many kinds of music (if not very transparent), but I can't wait to get back to the Omegas. My aural perception has adjusted away from the unnatural forward presentation, and they don't involve me as much. 
 So, perception is a big part of the whole experience, here. I think people can really underestimate just how much of a swing occurs when they finally obtain a natural-sounding product. The second thing that was surprising to me was the amount of time it took to re-calibrate my perception; not a few hours, but closer to a week. Just some observations on how perception and judgement about things in this realm are not really fixed, but can shift._

 

This is the exact reason why people dismiss the SR-007 in favor of the He90. It takes a while to recognize how fake these more forward phones sound but when you have you can never go back. This is the way good hi-fi should sound, not upfront or bright but just there. If the recording is bright they will show that but in their polite understated manner. With each new improved component the better they get. All I need now is somebody to build for me a DHT based amp with huge transmitter tubes and all of the usual top level caps, resistors and wire so I can see just how good they can be.


----------



## edstrelow

Re: the cheaper Stax amps, I see that the 313 replacement in the Stax lineup is a 323II

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/SRM323II-BRO2.pdf

 It cites a "Maximum output voltage: 400 V r.m.s. / 1 kHz " which is I think significantly more than the earlier 313, although the 717 and 727A are still at 450. I wonder if this will be a real improvement. It's too bad Stax got rid of the low bias socket though. 

 Also, I note that the tube amps have much lower output voltages, 300 to 340. Is that partly why they are reported to have a more laid-back quality.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's spring cleaning, so time for me to pare down some of the extra gear I've accumulated in recent months. This includes a backup SRD-7 Pro box that I could be persuaded to find a loving home for._

 


 ShaolinRasta,
 How much for your SRD-7 Pro?

 AudioD


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using a Aleph 3 (clone) and will say it again ,there is SERIOUS synergy with the Pass Amps._

 

I completely agree! The old Threshold SA/3 works well also.
 The Adcom 5000 series are all 3 stage MOSFET amps designed by Nelson Pass. Nelson told me that a lot of the concepts in the Aleph amps went into the 5000 series designs. The Adcom 5800 is a great sounding amp for the money. The baby in the series was the 5200 (now discontinued). I saw one on Audiogon for $200. I've not heard it. It may make a good amp on the cheap.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: the cheaper Stax amps, I see that the 313 replacement in the Stax lineup is a 323II

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/SRM323II-BRO2.pdf

 It cites a "Maximum output voltage: 400 V r.m.s. / 1 kHz " which is I think significantly more than the earlier 313, although the 717 and 727A are still at 450. I wonder if this will be a real improvement. It's too bad Stax got rid of the low bias socket though. 

 Also, I note that the tube amps have much lower output voltages, 300 to 340. Is that partly why they are reported to have a more laid-back quality._

 

Higher voltages help but it is still a cheap solid state amp. It costs Stax around 100$ to build each one so it does sound pretty good for the price but the tube amps are much better even though they are compromised by a bad choice of tubes.


----------



## 88Sound

I received the XF2's today, and this brings up some tube biasing questions for the Blue Hawaii. I find the 'goal' of measuring 0 VDC between the + and - of each channel (for balance) and 0 VDC between the + and ground for each channel (for gain) unattainable.

 After allowing the amp to warm up for one hour as soon as the top is lifted all voltages change drastically, I find the biasing also changes a lot based on ambient temperature.

 So this begs the question.......how far can I be away from the goal to achieve sonic excellence and long tube life?

 Brief impressions of the XF2's so far, compared to the Telefunken's.......the XF2's have more air around the instruments, the recording space and reverberation is more well defined, and there is more bass. The Telefunkens seem to have less quantity of bass but the bass is tighter and goes extremely low.

 So to sum up my initial impressions.....the XF2's are more euphonic and the Tele's sound more like a perfect studio representation. They are very different from each other but both top notch and soooooo much better than any of the current production tubes I've heard (Electro Harmonix and the new Russian Mullards to be exact). By the way I'm very glad I got the XF2's.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my god.














_

 

Wow! Thats some nice Stax amplifiers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
On a related note I've got a pair of Sr-X/MK III whose right driver takes about 3 minutes to charge. When I first plug them in I get no sound from the right driver and full sound from the left. After 3 min. I get full sound from the right driver. There is no overall channel imbalance that I can hear, just that initial charge-up time. 

 Any ideas what's wrong and if it can be fixed?

 Thanks.

 

There is probably a corroded contact somewhere that slows the voltage buildup. Try to open up the driver to make new pressure contacts. It might work._

 

I have a similar issue with my main SR-X/MK3 pair.
 The right driver take a minute or two before it match volume with the left one.

 I will open up the driver and rotate the diaphragm. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Higher voltages help but it is still a cheap solid state amp. It costs Stax around 100$ to build each one so it does sound pretty good for the price but the tube amps are much better even though they are compromised by a bad choice of tubes._

 

When we are talking about tubes. Could you recommend me some tubes that are worth trying in my SRM-007t/Omega II system? Cause you seem to have some experience with tube-rolling Stax amplifiers (I guess the SRM-T1 is pretty close to the later SRM amplifiers)...

 I would like to tube-roll my amplifier, but have no idea what's worth looking into.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let's hit 1000 posts folks. Tomorrow?_

 

*Post number 1000*.
 Sorry, but I just _had_ to take this one...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to tube-roll my amplifier, but have no idea what's worth looking into. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't have a STAX tube amp, but i'm willing to bet(your money)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that some RCA cleartops would be a decent improvement over the stock tubes.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is the exact reason why people dismiss the SR-007 in favor of the He90. It takes a while to recognize how fake these more forward phones sound but when you have you can never go back. This is the way good hi-fi should sound, not upfront or bright but just there. If the recording is bright they will show that but in their polite understated manner. With each new improved component the better they get. All I need now is somebody to build for me a DHT based amp with huge transmitter tubes and all of the usual top level caps, resistors and wire so I can see just how good they can be._

 

That makes a lot of sense to me and I can see why I perhaps had an easier time liking the SR-007 from the start. I've never owned particularly forward headphones and the forward sounding ones I've heard, while still enjoyable, seemed to be lacking in ways important to me or were harsh for certain music. The SR-007 on the other hand sounds more like the sound I'm used to but lacking the rolloffs, dull presentation and other flaws that tend to plague the more laid back headphones.

 Oh, and if anyone is thinking of building a amp like the one you describe I'd like to know in advance. Need some time to save for it.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be very surprised to see a pro Stax transformer, driven by a mid-priced amp, come anywhere close to a SRM-007tII driving Omega IIs (Not to mention the after market alternatives, like the KGSS and BH). But, I'm still trying to acquire said transformer, just to satisfy myself about this. If I find out differently, I'll be happy to report back to that effect._

 

I'm not sure if you consider an Aleph 3 mid-priced (available secondhand for just under a thousand bucks), but driving my SR-X Mk IIIs via the SRD-7/SB tranny box, it blows away my 006tII / 404 setup. No contest, no comparison, forget about it.

 I haven't had a chance to try the 404s via a transformer box because the SRD-7 doesn't handle Pro phones. Sometime soon though.

  Quote:


 I think there is a really large bias in this forum, perpetuated by a few vocal members, to the effect that the old stuff is somehow "better" than the new. I haven't seen anything yet to validate that position, save the raves for the original Omegas (and associated stratospheric pricing, whenever they appear.) If the original Omegas were so great, I suspect Stax would still be making them! 
 

Is it a bias, or the voice of experience, or just simply preference? You seem to be speaking on the basis of theory alone. At least from my fairly experience of loudspeaker audio, newer does not necessarily mean better.

 Patrick


----------



## derekbmn

Some interesting quotes from Kevin Gilmore from a thread on the ES-1 in the amplification forum. 

 Its not what the tube can handle, it is the maximum voltage swing
 the headphones can handle. Any voltage swing more than the double the bias
 voltage (580 for o2) (500 for he90) and really bad things happen to the
 headphones. But you could probably get away with a 500 volt dc output
 bias with a 1kv power supply for those tubes.

 Not sure i would like 2kv peak to peak on my head...


 Stax transformer boxes and power amps of more than about 35 watts
 per channel are also a real bad idea.


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That doesn't look like an SR80, more like an SR30. And at $500. I've seen some extremely optimistic pricing before but that takes the cake.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1177513759_

 

That's ridiculous. You'd think after a month and 1600 views he'd get a clue that his asking price is about 4x it's vlue and it's not even a SR-84.


----------



## edstrelow

At the other end of the price scale, I just picked up a Koss ESP6 for $37.00. This is their original self-biasing unit with transformers in the earcups. I just got it and it almost works properly. The channels are balanced, even the LED level indicaters on the cups are working, but there are volume fluctuations and bass distortion making me think the bias is not working properly. 

 However I vaguely recall an old posting, probably on Headwize, that said these older Koss stats, usually ended up with shorts on their circuit boards because the foam deteriorated. But if you cleaned the boards up, they would work fine. 

 I will try disassembling to see if there is something that that I can work on. I know that Spritzer took one apart, but I don't think he got it working in its original configuration, but just kept the drivers and earcups and ran them off another headphone amp.

 This was sold as NOS. Normally I doubt that designation, but this one really looked the part. Not a scartch anywhere, The cable seemed pristine and felt on the back of the adapter boz showed no sign of use. The only real problem was the liquid-filled earpads, which were flat. I hope the liquid didn't end up in the drivers.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That doesn't look like an SR80, more like an SR30. And at $500. I've seen some extremely optimistic pricing before but that takes the cake.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1177513759_

 

Yup, SR30, but with a SR80 box. Read into that what you will. The pads on my SR50 are in much better shape than the ones on there.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's ridiculous. You'd think after a month and 1600 views he'd get a clue that his asking price is about 4x it's vlue and it's not even a SR-84._

 

More than 4x. SR30s are right down at the bottom of the ladder.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't have a STAX tube amp, but i'm willing to bet(your money)
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 that some RCA cleartops would be a decent improvement over the stock tubes._

 

Thanks!
 I have searched and found some NOS RCA 6CG7/6FQ7 clear-tops. Probably have to order four of them and try them out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All I need now is somebody to build for me a DHT based amp with huge transmitter tubes and all of the usual top level caps, resistors and wire so I can see just how good they can be._

 

That would be awesome!
 I would certainly be interested in buying such an amplifier as well...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't had a chance to try the 404s via a transformer box because the SRD-7 doesn't handle Pro phones. Sometime soon though._

 

Why not plug the SR-404 into the normal bias connector. It might not show its full potential, but it will give you some idea how it sound when driven by the Aleph 3/SRD-7 combo.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That doesn't look like an SR80, more like an SR30. And at $500. I've seen some extremely optimistic pricing before but that takes the cake.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1177513759_

 

Insane pricing! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If it actually were an SR80 it might sell for $100+-. But since it is not, probably an SR30, it might sell for $50+-.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be awesome!
 I would certainly be interested in buying such an amplifier as well..._

 

Thirded. If I ever sort out a power supply design I'm going to DIY one.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received the XF2's today, and this brings up some tube biasing questions for the Blue Hawaii. I find the 'goal' of measuring 0 VDC between the + and - of each channel (for balance) and 0 VDC between the + and ground for each channel (for gain) unattainable.

 After allowing the amp to warm up for one hour as soon as the top is lifted all voltages change drastically, I find the biasing also changes a lot based on ambient temperature.

 So this begs the question.......how far can I be away from the goal to achieve sonic excellence and long tube life?

 Brief impressions of the XF2's so far, compared to the Telefunken's.......the XF2's have more air around the instruments, the recording space and reverberation is more well defined, and there is more bass. The Telefunkens seem to have less quantity of bass but the bass is tighter and goes extremely low.

 So to sum up my initial impressions.....the XF2's are more euphonic and the Tele's sound more like a perfect studio representation. They are very different from each other but both top notch and soooooo much better than any of the current production tubes I've heard (Electro Harmonix and the new Russian Mullards to be exact). By the way I'm very glad I got the XF2's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You do not have to reach complete zero when you are biasing, +/-5v are fine. I do usually get to about +/-2v and stop there and this is after the amp has been on for more then an hour. 

 Glad you like the XF2's. You can also try out the GE or Sylvania "Fat Boy" tubes. They really are 6CA7's and not EL34's so they sound a bit different and are very long lasting. I don't like how they sound but they are good tubes. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When we are talking about tubes. Could you recommend me some tubes that are worth trying in my SRM-007t/Omega II system? Cause you seem to have some experience with tube-rolling Stax amplifiers (I guess the SRM-T1 is pretty close to the later SRM amplifiers)...

 I would like to tube-roll my amplifier, but have no idea what's worth looking into. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

First off the the 6CG7/6FQ7 is a bad tube for this application. According to Kevin you can put in 6S4's in the 007t and it should sound better but you need an adapter for this. 

 The best tubes for Stax amps are 6CG7 tubes made in Japan. They have many different brand names (Raytheon, Toshiba) and they are dirt cheap on ebay. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That makes a lot of sense to me and I can see why I perhaps had an easier time liking the SR-007 from the start. I've never owned particularly forward headphones and the forward sounding ones I've heard, while still enjoyable, seemed to be lacking in ways important to me or were harsh for certain music. The SR-007 on the other hand sounds more like the sound I'm used to but lacking the rolloffs, dull presentation and other flaws that tend to plague the more laid back headphones.

 Oh, and if anyone is thinking of building a amp like the one you describe I'd like to know in advance. Need some time to save for it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The harsh nature bothers me a lot and makes the He90 painful to listen to. The original SR-Lambda is bright but they are never harsh which makes them the natural choice on a morning like this when I'm so hung over I just barely could get out of bed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At the other end of the price scale, I just picked up a Koss ESP6 for $37.00. This is their original self-biasing unit with transformers in the earcups. I just got it and it almost works properly. The channels are balanced, even the LED level indicaters on the cups are working, but there are volume fluctuations and bass distortion making me think the bias is not working properly. 

 However I vaguely recall an old posting, probably on Headwize, that said these older Koss stats, usually ended up with shorts on their circuit boards because the foam deteriorated. But if you cleaned the boards up, they would work fine. 

 I will try disassembling to see if there is something that that I can work on. I know that Spritzer took one apart, but I don't think he got it working in its original configuration, but just kept the drivers and earcups and ran them off another headphone amp.

 This was sold as NOS. Normally I doubt that designation, but this one really looked the part. Not a scartch anywhere, The cable seemed pristine and felt on the back of the adapter boz showed no sign of use. The only real problem was the liquid-filled earpads, which were flat. I hope the liquid didn't end up in the drivers._

 

First off a word of warning. Be very careful when you take them apart because Koss used the bolts that attach the PCB's to the drivers as the conductors for bias and music signals. The drivers are in turn connected to the bolts with very thin uninsulated wires that break easily. I learned this the hard way so I completely rewired them with copper wire. Steel doesn't sound that good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The foam was and still is a bad idea. It makes a mess out of every thing and corrodes the bare copper PCB's. My set even had large amounts of melted foam on the transformers because they were driven too hard. The PCB's were a mess but I cleaned them up and they will go into an external box for a make shift ESP7. The comfort is horrible but they are much better with an ESP9 headband and are pretty comfy with a Lambda headband.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thirded. If I ever sort out a power supply design I'm going to DIY one._

 

DIYing something like a DHT electrostatic tube amp is on my long term plan but I just don't have the time to put into it currently and my electronics knowledge is too rusty/lacking. I think ultimately developing a good design takes not only knowledge of the field and some maths but practise, experience and a certain degree of trial and error inevitably leading to some redesign. For now I'm just trying to take in what I can to guide the process and relearn or learn as necessary. I hope to get something that sounds good out of this one day if I can find the time but I'd like a nice amp or two to hold me over in the meantime.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off the the 6CG7/6FQ7 is a bad tube for this application. According to Kevin you can put in 6S4's in the 007t and it should sound better but you need an adapter for this._

 

The 6S4 is a single triode, so that'll take quite a bit of fiddling to work. Double the heater requirements, too.

 Still, replacing the 6CG7s with something better is a good idea. I'm planning on converting the SRA-7S to use 6AH4s or 6BL7s, but I'm expecting it to prove quite the mission.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 6S4 is a single triode, so that'll take quite a bit of fiddling to work. Double the heater requirements, too.

 Still, replacing the 6CG7s with something better is a good idea. I'm planning on converting the SRA-7S to use 6AH4s or 6BL7s, but I'm expecting it to prove quite the mission._

 

True but it should be worthwhile. There is also the option of just buying the Woo Stax amp and stop all this insane fiddling.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True but it should be worthwhile. There is also the option of just buying the Woo Stax amp and stop all this insane fiddling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's not as fun, though. I enjoy being less encumbered by other people's topologies and parts selection; it's my sound not theirs.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off the the 6CG7/6FQ7 is a bad tube for this application. According to Kevin you can put in 6S4's in the 007t and it should sound better but you need an adapter for this. 

 The best tubes for Stax amps are 6CG7 tubes made in Japan. They have many different brand names (Raytheon, Toshiba) and they are dirt cheap on ebay._

 

I understand that there are better tubes out there than the 6CG7/6FQ7. I am all new to tubes, so I wont risk using adapters, etc. and possibly get into trouble.

 I have heard about Raytheon, so will check them out. eBay, here I come...


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True but it should be worthwhile. There is also the option of just buying the Woo Stax amp and stop all this insane fiddling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Has anyone heard the Woo Stax amp?

 Patrick


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the Woo Stax amp?

 Patrick_

 

I don't believe so at this point, but forum member Mikeg is waiting on one and I for one am really excited to hear his impressions of it when he get's it. I remember him saying that it will be at the (inter)national meet so hopefully we will get some feedback from attendees also. If feedback is good I know I will be getting one maybe with some minor changes(silver wiring for one). I have corresponded with Jack Woo and he seems to be a great guy.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off a word of warning. Be very careful when you take them apart because Koss used the bolts that attach the PCB's to the drivers as the conductors for bias and music signals. The drivers are in turn connected to the bolts with very thin uninsulated wires that break easily. I learned this the hard way so I completely rewired them with copper wire. Steel doesn't sound that good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The foam was and still is a bad idea. It makes a mess out of every thing and corrodes the bare copper PCB's. My set even had large amounts of melted foam on the transformers because they were driven too hard. The PCB's were a mess but I cleaned them up and they will go into an external box for a make shift ESP7. The comfort is horrible but they are much better with an ESP9 headband and are pretty comfy with a Lambda headband._

 

Yeah, I spotted the little wires in time. I spent about 40 minutes getting the phones apart and sure enough the foam closest to the drivers was a total mess and had corroroded the circuit boards in each cup. But I managed to get this crap off and cleaned the boards with a contact cleaner. Then a bit of progold on as many conatcts as I could see and voila the thing was working pretty well. 

 I don't think the drivers are damaged, although there is a possibility of fluid from the earpads having got into them. But they seem pretty good and you can even get the electrostatic fart from them when they are pressed in to head, indicating to me that there are no holes in them.

 Soundwise it's no Omega or even 404 and I think it needs some break-in. I don't know how many years or decades, this has been sitting around unused. The frequency response test strip which came with it is dated 1969!

 My inital impression was that it was muted in the treble. Also Spritzer's recent comment about the Stax transformers lacking macro/micro dyamics seemed to apply as well. There were also some volume anomalies, i.e. long quiet classical passages gradually fade out and them come surging back to life as the volume in the source comes back. I had forgotten that little quirk about self-biasing systems. You wouldn't notice it with rock/pop/jazz, where you tend not to get long passages at low levels.

 I will probably take it apart again to clean it a second time, remove and re-apply the various crimped-on contacts and located some better foam and then really give it a break-in.

 Why bother with this? Well it is one of only 2 or so electrostatics that are fully enclosed and isolating. It would be nice to get it back to the specs shown in the frequency response test and maybe even tweak it into something better.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I spotted the little wires in time. I spent about 40 minutes getting the phones apart and sure enough the foam closest to the drivers was a total mess and had corroroded the circuit boards in each cup. But I managed to get this crap off and cleaned the boards with a contact cleaner. Then a bit of progold on as many conatcts as I could see and voila the thing was working pretty well. 

 I don't think the drivers are damaged, although there is a possibility of fluid from the earpads having got into them. But they seem pretty good and you can even get the electrostatic fart from them when they are pressed in to head, indicating to me that there are no holes in them.

 Soundwise it's no Omega or even 404 and I think it needs some break-in. I don't know how many years or decades, this has been sitting around unused. The frequency response test strip which came with it is dated 1969!

 My inital impression was that it was muted in the treble. Also Spritzer's recent comment about the Stax transformers lacking macro/micro dyamics seemed to apply as well. There were l also some volume anomalies, i.e. long quiet classical passages gradually fade out and them come surging back to life as the volume in the source comes back. I had forgotten that little quirk about self-biasing systems. You wouldn't notice it with rock/pop/jazz, where you tend not to get long passages at low levels.

 I will probably take it apart again to clean it a second time, remove and re-apply the various crimped-on contacts and located some better foam and then really give it a break-in.

 Why bother with this? Well it is one of only 2 or so electrostatics that are fully enclosed and isolating. It would be nice to get it back to the specs shown in the frequency response test and maybe even tweak it into something better._

 

Great to hear you got them working again. The drivers are very tough but they don't have any dust covers so keep them in a clean space. I would have loved to be at the meeting where they thought that fluid filled earpads and high voltages were a good idea. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My only real issue with the ESP6 is the horrible headband. It would be fine if my ears were two inches higher up. 

 It's great fun to repair these older phones and make them better then they ever were. A good case is the Suprex PEP-74. They ripped off every last bit from Stax and they were meant to be cheap and sound like it to but with a few simple mods they turn into PRAT monsters. These are *the* rock electrostatics.


----------



## audiod

Need Advise.
 If I were to sell all my Stax collection (except my Lambda Pro’s & SRM-1mkII Pro) I could generate enough money to get a set of Omega 2’s (phones only). How do you think that my SRM (370 volts RMS output) would drive the Omega’s? I would upgrade to a better amp (Woo, KGSS or BH) at a later date.
 Thanks 
 AudioD


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* 
_That doesn't look like an SR80, more like an SR30. And at $500. I've seen some extremely optimistic pricing before but that takes the cake._

 

It's definitely an SR-30 (US market designation), not even the later (and dare we say more desirable) SR-30 Professional.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* 
_That's ridiculous. You'd think after a month and 1600 views he'd get a clue that his asking price is about 4x it's value and it's not even a SR-84._

 

Sadly true. 

 It's worth pointing out that the designations SR-34 and SR-84 in Mondo Staxo merely mean an SR-30 or SR-80 headset packaged and sold together with an SRD-4 transformer box.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_The foam was and still is a bad idea._

 

Amen. It's not even a good acoustic absorber. Substitute something like a thick layer of felt or a chunk of bonded polyester fibers.

 .


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need Advise.
 If I were to sell all my Stax collection (except my Lambda Pro’s & SRM-1mkII Pro) I could generate enough money to get a set of Omega 2’s (phones only). How do you think that my SRM (370 volts RMS output) would drive the Omega’s? I would upgrade to a better amp (Woo, KGSS or BH) at a later date.
 Thanks 
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

IMO I don't think it would do all that great of a job. It is only slightly more powerful than the SRM-313 (and probably built a little better). And the 313 to these ears CANNOT drive the OII worth a damn. BUT it may get you by for a while. What are you presently using (amp wise) with your SRD-7 PRO ? That may be something to think about too, as I have no doubt in my mind that if paired with a decent amp/preamp would smoke the SRM-1mkII.

 The Lambda Pros are soooo much easier to drive than the OII.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need Advise.
 If I were to sell all my Stax collection (except my Lambda Pro’s & SRM-1mkII Pro) I could generate enough money to get a set of Omega 2’s (phones only). How do you think that my SRM (370 volts RMS output) would drive the Omega’s? I would upgrade to a better amp (Woo, KGSS or BH) at a later date.
 Thanks 
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just hooked up my Omega II's to my SRM-1/MKII.
 Never heard any of the aftermarket amplifiers (Blue Hawaii, KGSS, ES-1, Aristateus, etc..), but use an SRM-007t as my daily amplifier.

 The first thing I noticed when listening to Omega II and SRM-1/MKII combo was the lack of control, which are especially noticeable in the lower frequencies. After listening for a while (switching back and forth between them), I conclude that they are a whole different league. The SRM-1/MKII lack the micro-dynamics, control and headstage of the bigger brother.
 The SRM-1/MKII play a lot better with the Lambda Pro though, since they are easier to drive.

 I think you would be better off selling the Stax collection, and use the money on an upgraded amplifier for your Lambda Pro. Then buy the Omega II at a later point.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need Advise.
 If I were to sell all my Stax collection (except my Lambda Pro’s & SRM-1mkII Pro) I could generate enough money to get a set of Omega 2’s (phones only). How do you think that my SRM (370 volts RMS output) would drive the Omega’s? I would upgrade to a better amp (Woo, KGSS or BH) at a later date.
 Thanks 
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you have heard the SR-007 with any of these amps and you loved them I would go for it. Even though they are better then any other Stax phone ever made it's always down to personal preference if you like them. Some people prefer the He90 to the SR-007. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You could always run them off a SRD-7 hooked up to a good amp until you get a good dedicated amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amen. It's not even a good acoustic absorber. Substitute something like a thick layer of felt or a chunk of bonded polyester fibers._

 

I find it hilarious that Stax has always used that wool (glass wool?) in their headphones but they used foam in the OEM stuff knowing it would be inferior.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some people prefer the He90 to the SR-007. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Some even prefer the HE60! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Delirious, the lot of them!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO I don't think it would do all that great of a job. It is only slightly more powerful than the SRM-313 (and probably built a little better). And the 313 to these ears CANNOT drive the OII worth a damn. BUT it may get you by for a while. What are you presently using (amp wise) with your SRD-7 PRO ? That may be something to think about too, as I have no doubt in my mind that if paired with a decent amp/preamp would smoke the SRM-1mkII.

 The Lambda Pros are soooo much easier to drive than the OII._

 

Thanks for the advise. I thought that because the SRM-1mkII Pro puts out more voltage than the SRM-007tII that it would at least be able to drive them to decent levels. Stax gives the impression that the Omega 2's are about as efficient as the Lambda series as far as voltage in to SPL out. I was more concerned about sound quality. I'm sorry to hear that this may not be a good temporary match. I was driving my SRD-7 Pro with a Dynaco ST-35 amp, but I sold it about a year ago.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the advise. I thought that because the SRM-1mkII Pro puts out more voltage than the SRM-007tII that it would at least be able to drive them to decent levels. Stax gives the impression that the Omega 2's are about as efficient as the Lambda series as far as voltage in to SPL out. I was more concerned about sound quality. I'm sorry to hear that this may not be a good temporary match. I was driving my SRD-7 Pro with a Dynaco ST-35 amp, but I sold it about a year ago.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The voltage is being used to control the extremely light diaphragm, not for the sake of volume or whatever. For reasons that extend beyond just Vout, the cheaper Stax amps don't do a particularly good job at controlling the more hot-rodded electrostatics out there. 

 I think the main factor isn't power so much as power supply and regulation issues, as seen by the massive sonic changes the 252/HEV70/E90/etc undergo with a beefy regulated PSU.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just hooked up my Omega II's to my SRM-1/MKII.
 Never heard any of the aftermarket amplifiers (Blue Hawaii, KGSS, ES-1, Aristateus, etc..), but use an SRM-007t as my daily amplifier.

 The first thing I noticed when listening to Omega II and SRM-1/MKII combo was the lack of control, which are especially noticeable in the lower frequencies. After listening for a while (switching back and forth between them), I conclude that they are a whole different league. The SRM-1/MKII lack the micro-dynamics, control and headstage of the bigger brother.
 The SRM-1/MKII play a lot better with the Lambda Pro though, since they are easier to drive.

 I think you would be better off selling the Stax collection, and use the money on an upgraded amplifier for your Lambda Pro. Then buy the Omega II at a later point. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for your advise. I was hoping to get some of the Omega sound right away. I know that a better amp would improve the Lambda Pro’s but I think that the Lambda sound would still be there. It would probably be about a year before I could finish the system. I appreciate you spending the time for the comparison. What do you think would be the best amp (007tII, Woo, KGSS...) for the Omega's for a reasonable amount of money?

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you think would be the best amp (007tII, Woo, KGSS...) for the Omega's for a reasonable amount of money?_

 

I believe the answer to that question is "42".


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The voltage is being used to control the extremely light diaphragm, not for the sake of volume or whatever. For reasons that extend beyond just Vout, the cheaper Stax amps don't do a particularly good job at controlling the more hot-rodded electrostatics out there. 

 I think the main factor isn't power so much as power supply and regulation issues, as seen by the massive sonic changes the 252/HEV70/E90/etc undergo with a beefy regulated PSU._

 

Thanks Carl,
 If you had a SRM-1mkII Pro and a set of Lambda Pro's and you could generate about $2000 by selling all your other Stax stuff what would you do with the money to improve your system? If I sold the SRM & Lambdas I would be close to a Omega 2/SRM-007tII system form Audio Cubes II. I don't really want to sell the SRM/Lambda Pro system at this point. Any advise?

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Carl,
 If you had a SRM-1mkII Pro and a set of Lambda Pro's and you could generate about $2000 by selling all your other Stax stuff what would you do with the money to improve your system? If I sold the SRM & Lambdas I would be close to a Omega 2/SRM-007tII system form Audio Cubes II. I don't really want to sell the SRM/Lambda Pro system at this point. Any advise?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm not buying all this stuff for any particular sonic ends, I'm doing it to learn and understand the technology and my own musical goals. Getting to a destination is one thing, but getting there when you don't know what the destination is is another.

 That said, I have a reasonable idea what I'm trying to achieve, but seeing as I still have the luxury of my youth, there is no rush for me to get there.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your advise. I was hoping to get some of the Omega sound right away. I know that a better amp would improve the Lambda Pro’s but I think that the Lambda sound would still be there. It would probably be about a year before I could finish the system. I appreciate you spending the time for the comparison._

 

You are most welcome!
 Not entirely sure if I prefer the Lambda Pro or the Omega II when powered by the SRM-1/MKII. But I might lean towards the Omega II.

 Perhaps you should try the Omega II and SRM-1/MKII combo at your own before you decide.
  Quote:


 What do you think would be the best amp (007tII, Woo, KGSS...) for the Omega's for a reasonable amount of money? 
 

As said, I have never heard any of the aftermarket amplifiers. I am pleased with how the 007t control the Omega II, but I also know there are better amplifiers out there.

 KGSS are the most obvious choice if you prefer solid state.
 When it comes to tube amplifiers (all tube and hybrid) there are a lot to choose from, and I don't know which one provides best sound quality for the money.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some even prefer the HE60! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Delirious, the lot of them!_

 

Those people should be locked up! 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you think would be the best amp (007tII, Woo, KGSS...) for the Omega's for a reasonable amount of money?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If it were my money then the 007t isn't even in the picture. The KGSS is a very good amp and if it still sells for 1500$ a pretty good deal. The Woo amp should be very good and while I've never heard it I'm getting the urge to buy a fully loaded one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I built a KGSS for a friend some years ago and it didn't do it for me. The BH was so much better I never finished the second KGSS that was meant for me. If you aren't a tube nut like me you could like the KGSS a lot and it is good value for the money.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it were my money then the 007t isn't even in the picture. The KGSS is a very good amp and if it still sells for 1500$ a pretty good deal. The Woo amp should be very good and while I've never heard it I'm getting the urge to buy a fully loaded one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I built a KGSS for a friend some years ago and it didn't do it for me. The BH was so much better I never finished the second KGSS that was meant for me. If you aren't a tube nut like me you could like the KGSS a lot and it is good value for the money._

 

The Woo amp does look interesting and a good price. The construction looks very good. I contacted them and delivery is for mid to late May. I do like tubes (I’ve certainly owned enough) but solid state has matured to a point that I wouldn’t rule anything out just because it was solid state. I like my SRM-1mkII better than my SRM-006t (since sold along with SR-404’s) on the Lambda Pro’s. I thought the 006t was glassy sounding and week and loose in the bass.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Woo amp does look interesting and a good price. The construction looks very good. I contacted them and delivery is for mid to late May. I do like tubes (I’ve certainly owned enough) but solid state has matured to a point that I wouldn’t rule anything out just because it was solid state. I like my SRM-1mkII better than my SRM-006t (since sold along with SR-404’s) on the Lambda Pro’s. I thought the 006t was glassy sounding and week and loose in the bass.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The 006t is a hybrid and has the negative aspects of both.


----------



## krmathis

The WooAudio GES sure looks promising.
 At $1250 its most probably hard to beat when it comes to sound quality for the money.

 I am tempted to order a black one. But will wait for the first review...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Woo amp does look interesting and a good price. The construction looks very good. I contacted them and delivery is for mid to late May. I do like tubes (I’ve certainly owned enough) but solid state has matured to a point that I wouldn’t rule anything out just because it was solid state. I like my SRM-1mkII better than my SRM-006t (since sold along with SR-404’s) on the Lambda Pro’s. I thought the 006t was glassy sounding and week and loose in the bass.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The 006t can be made better with some mods and tube rolling but the limited space makes it hard. The Woo looks like a great amp and with the right parts it should be close to the big amps for a much lower price.


----------



## derekbmn

If the Woo has some positive reviews ,I know I will be getting one . Its at a good price point and build quality looks stellar. And Jack Woo is willing to customize it a bit as well. Black looks great to me.

 HeadAmp is still making the KGSS & KGSS DX . But will be offering a special edition Blue Hawaii at a price around $3500. Only 10 units will be built.

 Audiod -I say go for the OII and don't look back. If the amp situation is only temporary ,then do it.(you know you want to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some even prefer the HE60! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Delirious, the lot of them!_

 

Word. And, damn proud of it.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the Woo has some positive reviews ,I know I will be getting one . 

 Audiod -I say go for the OII and don't look back. If the amp situation is only temporary ,then do it.(you know you want to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )_

 

Agree. Always spring for the speaker/headphones first; the rest of your system can always catch up, but even the best amp will be limited by the transducer.

 The Woo sounds very positive, indeed. The special BH does too, but maybe a bit too pricey for me.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Audiod -I say go for the OII and don't look back. If the amp situation is only temporary ,then do it.(you know you want to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agree. Always spring for the speaker/headphones first; the rest of your system can always catch up, but even the best amp will be limited by the transducer._

 

Thanks so much for your valuable advise.

 My first inclination was to go for the Omega 2’s first.
 I may also sell my Koss and AKG phones and put in an order for the Woo. 

 AudioD


----------



## mikeg

I suspect that I may have ordered the first Woo GES amp at headfi, and thereby apparently started a trend. I'm glad to have done so, and I urged Jack Wu to take my amp (even prior to its delivery to me) to the National Meet in San Jose, in order to let others try it, and post their observations about it. I've previously bought a McAlister EA-4, and brought it to several meets with the intention of letting others try this inexpensive amp., and then post their observations about its performance. A thing that I like about the McAlister electrostat amps., the Woo electrostat amps, the ES-1, etc., is that they are continually available for purchanse. But, HeadAmp seems to repeatedly make limited edition amps (e.g., the Aristaeus), which IMO is an undesirable practice, since there seems little point in putting much effort into reviewing amps that cease being available for purchase. What's the point of producing limited edition amps? Is it merely to make them status symbols, primarily due to their exclusivity? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the Woo has some positive reviews ,I know I will be getting one . Its at a good price point and build quality looks stellar. And Jack Woo is willing to customize it a bit as well. Black looks great to me.

 HeadAmp is still making the KGSS & KGSS DX . But will be offering a special edition Blue Hawaii at a price around $3500. *Only 10 units will be built*.

 Audiod -I say go for the OII and don't look back. If the amp situation is only temporary ,then do it.(you know you want to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )_


----------



## plaidplatypus

Does the SRM-007tII have a normal bias output? Some 007t had 3 pro only outputs and some had 2 pro only and 1 normal bias.

 I think that my SR-Lambda sounded much better out of the 007t than my normal bias SRM-1/MK-2. Out of the 007t I thought that SR-Lambda>HE60>007 but I'm totally nuts and no one agrees with me. What I think everyone can agree upon is that 006t + 404 = Where's the beef?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the SRM-007tII have a normal bias output? Some 007t had 3 pro only outputs and some had 2 pro only and 1 normal bias.

 I think that my SR-Lambda sounded much better out of the 007t than my normal bias SRM-1/MK-2. Out of the 007t I thought that SR-Lambda>HE60>007 but I'm totally nuts and no one agrees with me. What I think everyone can agree upon is that 006t + 404 = Where's the beef?_

 

the SRM-007TII -2 Pro Bias outputs

 Not nuts , you just maybe prefer a bright sound signature. (ok maybe a little nutty)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the SRM-007tII have a normal bias output? Some 007t had 3 pro only outputs and some had 2 pro only and 1 normal bias.

 I think that my SR-Lambda sounded much better out of the 007t than my normal bias SRM-1/MK-2. Out of the 007t I thought that SR-Lambda>HE60>007 but I'm totally nuts and no one agrees with me. What I think everyone can agree upon is that 006t + 404 = Where's the beef?_

 

Your not nuts but you really like bright sounding phones. I really like the the SR-Lambda ,so much in fact I just bought another one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, but they can't compete with the big dogs. The 007t is a great amp to drive them and the HE60 as well.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the SRM-007tII have a normal bias output? Some 007t had 3 pro only outputs and some had 2 pro only and 1 normal bias._

 

The oldest ones did, but 230v bias outputs have been absent from Stax's amps for quite a while now.

  Quote:


 Out of the 007t I thought that SR-Lambda>HE60>007 but I'm totally nuts and no one agrees with me. 
 

Well, some of us do prefer the HE60 (just not Spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Personal tastes has a lot to say in this. 

  Quote:


 What I think everyone can agree upon is that 006t + 404 = Where's the beef? 
 

Horrible combo.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The oldest ones did, but 230v bias outputs have been absent from Stax's amps for quite a while now._

 

I think they finally dropped it in 2004. It didn't make a whole lot of sense to continue with the Normal system because it confused the hell out of new customers. There are actually many versions of the 007t depending on what the distributors ordered but it's mostly down to the color, number of sockets and whether they have external voltage switches or not. There are also some internal changes but nothing major. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, some of us do prefer the HE60 (just not Spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Personal tastes has a lot to say in this._

 

I guess I'm just that little bit more special


----------



## thrice

New toy on the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The waiting is the hardest part.


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New toy on the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The waiting is the hardest part._

 

You sir, have a sickness...


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You sir, have a sickness... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

*cough, hack, cough*gasp*

 What can't hear you over this "head" cold of mine. I need a dose of Staxicillin.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the SRM-007tII have a normal bias output? Some 007t had 3 pro only outputs and some had 2 pro only and 1 normal bias._

 

My SRM-007t have 2 Pro and 1 Normal bias outputs.
 Bought new last summer. But had been stored a while, since this version went out of production in 2004.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New toy on the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The waiting is the hardest part._

 

More details please!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*cough, hack, cough*gasp*

 What can't hear you over this "head" cold of mine. I need a dose of Staxicillin. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Will you divulge its identity before it arrives?


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will you divulge its identity before it arrives? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well I wood, but it should be here by the middle/end of the week so it won't be a long wait.


----------



## Duggeh

Not as long as the wait I have for my latest order. Mine wont even be put into the post until about April 10th. Consider yourself lucky!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not as long as the wait I have for my latest order. Mine wont even be put into the post until about April 10th. Consider yourself lucky!_

 

Huh, a 2-week wait before they ship...what could that be?


----------



## wualta

First, be sure to check out Akwok's gorgeous photos of his gorgeous Stax Mo' 'Mega I (translation: Omega I) cans in this thread.

 Then, next time you're chatting up your local friendly librarian, ask if they have or can interloan the book Retro-Electro by Pepe Tozzo. Chock full of high-res photos of your favorite forgotten tech toys of the '70s and '80s, including the 1974 Philips VCR, the Sinclair Microvision, the original McIntosh, and on page 76, the mighty Stax SR-X, which the book claims was introduced in 1970. Come to think of it, has anyone ever seen an original SR-X?

 .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then, next time you're chatting up your local friendly librarian, ask if they have or can interloan the book Retro-Electro by Pepe Tozzo. Chock full of high-res photos of your favorite forgotten tech toys of the '70s and '80s, including the 1974 Philips VCR, the Sinclair Microvision, the original McIntosh, and on page 76, the mighty Stax SR-X, which the book claims was introduced in 1970. Come to think of it, has anyone ever seen an original SR-X?._

 

I've never listened to one but I've seen a number for sale over the years. Same goes for the Mk2's. They were released in 1970 and the Mk2 in 1972 and the Mk3 in 1976. Thats a really rapid development time for such a small company so the customers must have been complaining or something worse.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New toy on the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The waiting is the hardest part._

 

I have some new Stax toys on the way as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 From Audio Cubes II...


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Carl,
 If you had a SRM-1mkII Pro and a set of Lambda Pro's and you could generate about $2000 by selling all your other Stax stuff what would you do with the money to improve your system? If I sold the SRM & Lambdas I would be close to a Omega 2/SRM-007tII system form Audio Cubes II. I don't really want to sell the SRM/Lambda Pro system at this point. Any advise?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you do want to purchase an Omega II or 007t, do so from PriceJapan. The Omega II is currently around $1400-$1450 USD shipped (new), which is the absolute lowest I've ever seen them. And the 007tII is $1277 shipped, but you can get it for cheaper (or even an alternative amp) from FS/FT.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Huh, a 2-week wait before they ship...what could that be?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll give you a clue, you can see it in this picture and its not what you think it is.


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll give you a clue, you can see it in this picture and its not what you think it is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Congrats on that sick lamp Doug! It'll be well worth the 2 week wait!


----------



## thrice

Damnit! I was going to comment on the lamp...LOL

 Please tell me it's the pillow with the chicken on it! (bottom right)

 And that lamp is quite fetching.


----------



## mirumu

Seems I'm also joining team "toys on the way" as well.


----------



## Carl

My amp hasn't even made it to the airport yet. Damn you Japan Post! T_T


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems I'm also joining team "toys on the way" as well._

 

Oooh, what would it be? Finally a propper amp? Or trying a different headphone?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oooh, what would it be? Finally a propper amp? Or trying a different headphone?_

 

Now now, that would be telling.


----------



## Duggeh

Much teasing going on from the buyers at the minute it would seem.


----------



## Carl

Oh well. As long as they spill the beans sooner or later.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I wood, but it should be here by the middle/end of the week so it won't be a long wait. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

I've only now, understood your reply.



 You sneaky person.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've only now, understood your reply.



 You sneaky person. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Wood you have preferred if he had made it more obvious?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..that would be telling._

 

We want.. INFORMATION. *INFORMATION*. _*INFORMATION!*_

 EDIT: [Grins from ear to ear at the Kiwi-contingent responses to this]

 .


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wood you have preferred if he had made it more obvious?_

 

Nah. It was good.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We want.. INFORMATION. *INFORMATION*. *INFORMATION!*_

 

I love that show..._*cough*_ I mean..."I AM NOT A NUMBER — I AM A FREE MAN!"


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We want.. INFORMATION. *INFORMATION*. *INFORMATION!*_

 

He will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed, or numbered. His Stax is his own.


 Damn, I need to borrow your copy sometime, Matt.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed, or numbered. His Stax is his own.


 Damn, I need to borrow your copy sometime, Matt._

 

I'm impressed you knew I had it considering how buried it is amongst my DVDs. But yes, feel free. Just be wary of giant oversized gym balls coming to take your Staxen.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm impressed you knew I had it considering how buried it is amongst my DVDs. But yes, feel free. Just be wary of giant oversized gym balls coming to take your Staxen._

 

I believe I first asked to borrow it a year or two ago and then completely forgot.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My amp hasn't even made it to the airport yet. Damn you Japan Post!_

 

Do tell !! Direct drive or going to the Illusion ?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do tell !! Direct drive or going to the Illusion ?_

 

An old Stax SRA-7S I'm planning on doing up.


----------



## derekbmn

Very cool !!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An old Stax SRA-7S I'm planning on doing up._

 

Is that also a pre-amp? My SRA12-S is a very good pre-amp and I used it as such even when the headphone amp section wasn't working.

 On the Koss front, my recently received ESP6 is improving its sound with some break-in. There has been some extension in the treble and bass since the initial clean-up of the circuit boards. 

 It seals quite tightly which I assume makes it fairly efficient, as the transducers do not have to move much. It sounds very clean and smooth. I am running it off a 50 WPC Pioneer receiver. My various Stax phones sound somewhat harsh by comparison. This could be due to the more extended high frequency response of the Stax but I wonder if this may be due to tight seal of the earcups.

 The ESP6 came with a test frequency response chart for that specific phone which was astonishingly flat and extended. Nothing at all like the plots I have seen on most other phones. 

 The only real problem is that there are still noticeable volume fluctuations due to the self-bias operation. Ayway I will give it another tune-up in a few weeks a replace the foam damping material probably with felt.

 Makes me want to ressurect the ESP9, which I have been unable to get to work on a Stax amp, but it needs a new transformer.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is that also a pre-amp? My SRA12-S is a very good pre-amp and I used it as such even when the headphone amp section wasn't working._

 

Indeed it is. In this era of line-level signals the preamp stage isn't that important to me, but I'm looking forward to trying out the phono stages (it even has a condenser pickup input 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is that also a pre-amp? My SRA12-S is a very good pre-amp and I used it as such even when the headphone amp section wasn't working.

 On the Koss front, my recently received ESP6 is improving its sound with some break-in. There has been some extension in the treble and bass since the initial clean-up of the circuit boards. 

 It seals quite tightly which I assume makes it fairly efficient, as the transducers do not have to move much. It sounds very clean and smooth. I am running it off a 50 WPC Pioneer receiver. My various Stax phones sound somewhat harsh by comparison. This could be due to the more extended high frequency response of the Stax but I wonder if this may be due to tight seal of the earcups.

 The ESP6 came with a test frequency response chart for that specific phone which was astonishingly flat and extended. Nothing at all like the plots I have seen on most other phones. 

 The only real problem is that there are still noticeable volume fluctuations due to the self-bias operation. Ayway I will give it another tune-up in a few weeks a replace the foam damping material probably with felt.

 Makes me want to ressurect the ESP9, which I have been unable to get to work on a Stax amp, but it needs a new transformer._

 

You can't get the ESP9 to work with a Stax amp without some major surgery. There is a lot of circuitry both inside the cups and in the adapter and retracing is a b*tch because of the stupid assembly process Koss used.


----------



## catscratch

So, I picked up an SRM-007t that will eventually power my O2's. I figured the 313 would not be up to par, so I'd get my system ready, and in the meanwhile, enjoy some warm tube sound with the 404's. I thought of the KGSS and it's synergy with the 007t, but I absolutely need some tubes in my system. I prefer a lusher, more euphonic tube sound to a more clinical solid state sound to the extent that I can't listen to solid state now and enjoy it.

 I have to agree with those that say that the 313 is rubbish. It really is, though it's not a bad dollar value given how cheap you can get one these days. The 007t is a clearly superior amp. I also have to agree with those that say that the 007t is not a bad amp but nowhere near the boutique amps. The McAlister outperforms the 007t in many areas.

 I'd say that the 007t is a refined and delicate sounding amp that's lacking some drive. It is very detailed, has a warmish but still fairly neutral sound and a good dose of tube character without being excessively lush. The detail is what impressed me most on first listen - the 313 was clearly holding the 404 back in terms of resolution. The 007t's ability to pick out microdetail is second to none in my experience. It surpasses the McAlister amp in this regard. It is also a very coherent sounding amp; nothing sticks out and everything is smoothly represented. I should note at this point that it doesn't get rid of the 404's upper midrange peak, though it does smooth out some of the rough edges, which I suppose were the fault of the 313 more than the 404.

 The McAlister amp outperforms the 007t when it comes to drive and dynamics. It also offers a larger soundstage. However, it is not as detailed or refined; it is a cruder, bolder approach that takes more risks but comes up short. The McAlister also is crudely built and buzzes and hums at certain volume pot positions; it clips with overly dynamic passages and some things don't sound as they should. So, I consider it a work in progress rather than a finished product. But, the potential is there for an amp that will readily surpass the 007t.

 The 313 sounds tinny now with a looser bass. I'd have expected more bass definition given that it's a solid state amp but this was not the case. The upper frequencies are also far more strident. Resolution is nowhere near the 007t, and falls short of the McAlister as well. I really don't recommend this amp with the 404; it has a brightish sound and is lacking some drive, which is not a good compliment to the 404 at all. The 007t compliments it much better and offers a lusher sound with more resolution. The McAlister compliments it better still, offering frankly insane dynamics and excellent drive, as well as a large soundstage, though it is a bit too bright for the 404. I do remember someone quoting that Peter voiced this amp for the O2, and I can hear that.

 Well, that's the first step. Now, to sell off all of this junk that I don't ever use and get an O2...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I picked up an SRM-007t that will eventually power my O2's. I figured the 313 would not be up to par, so I'd get my system ready, and in the meanwhile, enjoy some warm tube sound with the 404's. I thought of the KGSS and it's synergy with the 007t, but I absolutely need some tubes in my system. I prefer a lusher, more euphonic tube sound to a more clinical solid state sound to the extent that I can't listen to solid state now and enjoy it.

 I have to agree with those that say that the 313 is rubbish. It really is, though it's not a bad dollar value given how cheap you can get one these days. The 007t is a clearly superior amp. I also have to agree with those that say that the 007t is not a bad amp but nowhere near the boutique amps. The McAlister outperforms the 007t in many areas.

 I'd say that the 007t is a refined and delicate sounding amp that's lacking some drive. It is very detailed, has a warmish but still fairly neutral sound and a good dose of tube character without being excessively lush. The detail is what impressed me most on first listen - the 313 was clearly holding the 404 back in terms of resolution. The 007t's ability to pick out microdetail is second to none in my experience. It surpasses the McAlister amp in this regard. It is also a very coherent sounding amp; nothing sticks out and everything is smoothly represented. I should note at this point that it doesn't get rid of the 404's upper midrange peak, though it does smooth out some of the rough edges, which I suppose were the fault of the 313 more than the 404.

 The McAlister amp outperforms the 007t when it comes to drive and dynamics. It also offers a larger soundstage. However, it is not as detailed or refined; it is a cruder, bolder approach that takes more risks but comes up short. The McAlister also is crudely built and buzzes and hums at certain volume pot positions; it clips with overly dynamic passages and some things don't sound as they should. So, I consider it a work in progress rather than a finished product. But, the potential is there for an amp that will readily surpass the 007t.

 The 313 sounds tinny now with a looser bass. I'd have expected more bass definition given that it's a solid state amp but this was not the case. The upper frequencies are also far more strident. Resolution is nowhere near the 007t, and falls short of the McAlister as well. I really don't recommend this amp with the 404; it has a brightish sound and is lacking some drive, which is not a good compliment to the 404 at all. The 007t compliments it much better and offers a lusher sound with more resolution. The McAlister compliments it better still, offering frankly insane dynamics and excellent drive, as well as a large soundstage, though it is a bit too bright for the 404. I do remember someone quoting that Peter voiced this amp for the O2, and I can hear that.

 Well, that's the first step. Now, to sell off all of this junk that I don't ever use and get an O2..._

 

Congrats on the new amp. The SRM-313 isn't a bad amp for 400$ but compared to the tubed units it simply doesn't cut it. It's to bright and strident for the Lambdas and thats why I loaned it to my brother with my spare set of Signatures. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 007t is a great amp for the Lambdas and the Sennheisers. It will drive the Omegas but you should roll in a better set of tubes and go overboard with silver cables.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I picked up an SRM-007t that will eventually power my O2's. I figured the 313 would not be up to par, so I'd get my system ready, and in the meanwhile, enjoy some warm tube sound with the 404's. I thought of the KGSS and it's synergy with the 007t, but I absolutely need some tubes in my system. I prefer a lusher, more euphonic tube sound to a more clinical solid state sound to the extent that I can't listen to solid state now and enjoy it.

 I have to agree with those that say that the 313 is rubbish. It really is, though it's not a bad dollar value given how cheap you can get one these days. The 007t is a clearly superior amp. I also have to agree with those that say that the 007t is not a bad amp but nowhere near the boutique amps. The McAlister outperforms the 007t in many areas.

 I'd say that the 007t is a refined and delicate sounding amp that's lacking some drive. It is very detailed, has a warmish but still fairly neutral sound and a good dose of tube character without being excessively lush. The detail is what impressed me most on first listen - the 313 was clearly holding the 404 back in terms of resolution. The 007t's ability to pick out microdetail is second to none in my experience. It surpasses the McAlister amp in this regard. It is also a very coherent sounding amp; nothing sticks out and everything is smoothly represented. I should note at this point that it doesn't get rid of the 404's upper midrange peak, though it does smooth out some of the rough edges, which I suppose were the fault of the 313 more than the 404.

*The McAlister amp outperforms the 007t when it comes to drive and dynamics. It also offers a larger soundstage. However, it is not as detailed or refined; it is a cruder, bolder approach that takes more risks but comes up short. The McAlister also is crudely built and buzzes and hums at certain volume pot positions; it clips with overly dynamic passages and some things don't sound as they should. So, I consider it a work in progress rather than a finished product. But, the potential is there for an amp that will readily surpass the 007t.*

 The 313 sounds tinny now with a looser bass. I'd have expected more bass definition given that it's a solid state amp but this was not the case. The upper frequencies are also far more strident. Resolution is nowhere near the 007t, and falls short of the McAlister as well. I really don't recommend this amp with the 404; it has a brightish sound and is lacking some drive, which is not a good compliment to the 404 at all. The 007t compliments it much better and offers a lusher sound with more resolution. The McAlister compliments it better still, offering frankly insane dynamics and excellent drive, as well as a large soundstage, though it is a bit too bright for the 404. I do remember someone quoting that Peter voiced this amp for the O2, and I can hear that.

 Well, that's the first step. Now, to sell off all of this junk that I don't ever use and get an O2..._

 

Which McAlister amp are your referring to? Is it the EA-1 or the EA-6?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which McAlister amp are your referring to? Is it the EA-1 or the EA-6?_

 

He has the (only?) EA-2.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed it is. In this era of line-level signals the preamp stage isn't that important to me, but I'm looking forward to trying out the phono stages (it even has a condenser pickup input 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)._

 

What's nice about the SRA-12s is that it has a linestage bypass switch. You can use it as a passive preamp. All the active circuitry, including the HV amp, is FET. It was pretty exotic in the late seventies. The condenser input is just a line level input like tuner or aux. All the Stax condenser cartridges had their own active circuitry with a line out.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The condenser input is just a line level input like tuner or aux. All the Stax condenser cartridges had their own active circuitry with a line out._

 

I thought it went through the RIAA...? Damn, I better look at the schematic.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I picked up an SRM-007t that will eventually power my O2's. 

 Well, that's the first step. Now, to sell off all of this junk that I don't ever use and get an O2..._

 

Congrats! Methinks you'll like the O2s with the 7t. It's really not a bad amp, at all.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought it went through the RIAA...? Damn, I better look at the schematic._

 

Carl,
 I used to own a High End shop in the Detroit area in the seventies.
 We once had a Denon DP-6000 turntable with a Stax UA-7CF arm and CP-Y cartridge connected to a SRA-12s driving two DA-300 amps bi-amping Magneplanar Tympani 1D's. We sold a lot of Stax stuff back then. 

 AudioD


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The McAlister amp outperforms the 007t when it comes to drive and dynamics. It also offers a larger soundstage. However, it is not as detailed or refined; it is a cruder, bolder approach that takes more risks but comes up short. The McAlister also is crudely built and buzzes and hums at certain volume pot positions; it clips with overly dynamic passages and some things don't sound as they should. So, I consider it a work in progress rather than a finished product. But, the potential is there for an amp that will readily surpass the 007t._

 


 Perfect description of my EA-6... without the buzz or hum. Pity is, the potential REALLY is there. <sigh>


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perfect description of my EA-6... without the buzz or hum. Pity is, the potential REALLY is there. <sigh>_

 

I've heard that you're having trouble with your McAlister amp too... I really wish Peter had the issues worked out before he started marketing these. Eventually, mine will be fixed, and I will have to think long and hard before I decide which amp I'll use with the O2. It can be a really excellent amp I think. It turns the SR-404 into electrostatic Grados with soundstage, which I love, and I think if any reasonably priced amp can make the O2 get up and dance, it is this.

 Oh well - time will tell.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which McAlister amp are your referring to? Is it the EA-1 or the EA-6?_

 

Yes, I only have the EA-2, which is an EA-1 with a different output stage and some modifications, namely permanently applied bias voltage, and a normal bias socket on top of a pro bias one. It was not the amp that I originally wanted, that one was lost in transit. I can only imagine the financial hit that Peter took with that one.

 Don't use Canada Post guys! Ever! Nothing but trouble with them. Use DHL, I've never had an issue with them for 2 years. If you can, that is...


----------



## Dawoofer

I just purchased a pair Of Koss ESP 9's. Could someone explain to me how I go about hooking them up. Thank you in advance for any input or insight you might be able to give me.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just purchased a pair Of Koss ESP 9's. Could someone explain to me how I go about hooking them up. Thank you in advance for any input or insight you might be able to give me._

 

These have to be run from a conventional power amplifier or reciever. The 9's have a transformer box which should have either terminals for inputs from the amplifier/receiver speaker terminals, or cables, already installed to the unit, which you can hook up to the amplifier/receiver. If you still need to run speakers and your amplifier/receiver does not have an alternate set of speaker terminals, then you will have to attach the speaker cables to the back of the Koss transformer box.

 The Koss transformer box can run without being plugged into the mains, but you may find that it runs better plugged in and turned on.

 If the set doesn't sound too good, you might want to check in the cups for deteriorated foam, used for damping material. It can cause a lot of short circuits. I recount a few pages back in this thread cleaning up a 40 year-old Koss ESP6, the predecessor of the 9.


----------



## krmathis

Damn, this Stax hobby is addictive! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am getting my second SR-Lambda Pro (just won an eBay auction)..

 The waiting begins.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just purchased a pair Of Koss ESP 9's. Could someone explain to me how I go about hooking them up. Thank you in advance for any input or insight you might be able to give me._

 

You connect the adapter to the binding posts of a power amp. The wiring is as follows:

 White = R+
 Green = L+
 Red and Black are both - and can be connected to either channel.


----------



## mikeg

Aren't two completely different models of McAlister amps being discussed here? I think that the two are an EA-2 and an EA-6, with the first costing <$1K, and the second costing >$1.5K. My own early version of an EA-4 doesn't exhibit any of the negative properties that are described in these postings. It works perfectly, it's a joy to listen to, and sounds approx. 85% as good as an HEV90. And, it cost me less than $850. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perfect description of my EA-6... without the buzz or hum. Pity is, the potential REALLY is there. <sigh>_


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aren't two completely different models of McAlister amps being discussed here? I think that the two are an EA-2 and an EA-6, with the first costing <$1K, and the second costing >$1.5K. My own early version of an EA-4 doesn't exhibit any of the negative properties that are described in these postings. It works perfectly, it's a joy to listen to, and sounds approx. 85% as good as an HEV90. And, it cost me less than $850._

 

I had noticed that too. As someone who has had no dealings with Peter or heard his amps it seems opinions of the EA-1 and EA-4 suggest they are quite nice on the scale of things. The EA-2 and EA-6 (and EA-5?) seem to have been more experimental designs. I wonder if perhaps it was that these were not all successful experiments and the results bare little resemblance to the EA-1/EA-4 or if this is just different people with different tastes in music or presentation? Without people trying both it's hard to know where the differences lie. I certainly don't doubt anyone's impressions of their own amp and the results with the EA-2 and EA-6 do seem less than ideal.


----------



## Carl

Yes, the EA-2 and EA-6 were both one-off designs. I believe a headfier owns the EA-5 as well, but can't remember who. I have no idea what the EA-3 is or who owns it. 

 The EA-1 and EA-4 are the only models Peter sells on his site.

 Gain issues on one-off designs is something that can be understood as a possible consequence, but build quality issues are something to be mindful of for the entire product line.


----------



## Dawoofer

I have Red, Black, Green, White and Brown. Any idea's?


----------



## Duggeh

Can you post pictures?

 Brown? there shoudl be 5 leads, 4 for the connection to a power amp (contained together in a single casing until the end. And the mains cable.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have Red, Black, Green, White and Brown. Any idea's?_

 

Are you talking about in the headphone cable? There are only four binding posts.


----------



## mikeg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had noticed that too. As someone who has had no dealings with Peter or heard his amps it seems opinions of the EA-1 and EA-4 suggest they are quite nice on the scale of things. The EA-2 and EA-6 (and EA-5?) seem to have been more experimental designs. I wonder if perhaps it was that these were not all successful experiments and the results bare little resemblance to the EA-1/EA-4 or if this is just different people with different tastes in music or presentation? Without people trying both it's hard to know where the differences lie. I certainly don't doubt anyone's impressions of their own amp and the results with the EA-2 and EA-6 do seem less than ideal._

 

I hope that Peter sends me an EA-6, as a loaner at first, which I'll carefully compare to my EA-4, and to my soo-to-arrive Woo GES. I'll also bring the EA-6, and the GES, to the upcoming June 4th South Florida meet, for others' evaluations and comments regarding its performance.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have Red, Black, Green, White and Brown. Any idea's?_

 

Like I said in my earlier post...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You connect the adapter to the binding posts of a power amp. The wiring is as follows:

 White = R+
 Green = L+
 Red and Black are both - and can be connected to either channel._


----------



## milkpowder

Instead of sleeping, I've stayed up the whole night listening to music. I got through a lot of music: Puccini Messa di Gloria, Sibelius Violin Concerto, Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto, Brahms Violin Sonata No.3, Ysaye Sonata No.3, Schubert Fantasie in F minor for four hands, Beethoven Quartet Op.59 'Rasumovsky', Beethoven Christus am Ölberge Oratorio, Bach Partita No.1, Korngold Violin Concerto, etc...

 I am so happy and excited for various reasons. For the past handful of hours, I've just listened and listened, never feeling aurally fatigued. The SR-404 really are incredibly comfortable not to mention terrific-sounding. Anyway, just ignore me; I'm going to go take a nap...


----------



## Carl

Anyone speak Italian?


----------



## Frihed89

My experience with Peter McAlister has one good point going for it. The push pull amp he made for me sounds absolutely gorgeous. However...

 The estimated delivery date went from 10-24 weeks. The workmanship showed a lot of sloppiness and mistakes in simple things, like putting in the wrong tube sockets, bent knobs, screw holes drilled in the wrong places, crooked transformer covers. The preamp and amp also came with excessive gain, which should not have happened since he could match that. He also delivered a preamp ina different configuration than i had asked for, and over-all, his preamp does not sound as nice as the SP headamp I am using as a preamp.


----------



## Dawoofer

Spritzer, I understand your post and believe your wiring to be correct, although I have not did it yet because I still have a remaining brown wire that is run with those four colors mentioned. I'm trying to determine what the brown wire is for. This is the /E.9 energizer. Thank you for you input in this matter.
 Duggeh, there are 5 wires in that cable on this unit.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have Red, Black, Green, White and Brown. Any idea's?_

 

Brown is probably a grounding cable and may not be needed. In fact I wouldn't try to use it unless you have serious hum. I had a problem using this cable at one time when I attached it to another component, sparks flew and a transducerw as fried. I think Spritzer is correct about the other cables.

 I took my ancient NOS ESP 6 apart again last night, re-cleaned the circuit boards,which are in the ear-cups. (The ESP 9 also has a circuit board in each cup.) Then I took apart all the crimped connections on the boards and put Progold on the contacts and reattached the crimps. Some needed additional crimping. I don't know why Koss didn't just solder them. I may do this myself some day. Then more cleaning and Progold on other contacts, and repalced the deteriorated foam with felt as suggested in this forum.

 This cleaning improved the sound even more than the first cleaning, and there was notably more treble. The volume gyrations due to the self-energizer were a good deal less. With rock/pop no obvious problem at all. Classical music with significant volume changes, still showed somewhat of a problem. The volume would be fairly consistent but with a crescendo would go through the roof.

 Soundwize, it showed fairly a good solid bass, but was a still bit treble-shy and had what appears to be a peak at about 400-500 Hz. I checked this by switching in an equalizer and a cut at this frequency seemed to reduce the tonal imbalance. Quick comparisons with my Stax Sigma/404 run off the Stax 717 amp, showed the ESP6 lacked ambience and air, treble, micro-dynamics and definition in general.

 Like many old Koss phones, these came with liquid-filled ear-pads. These pads were great while they worked because they sealed tightly and were still comfortable. In practice they tended to plump out as some sort of chemical change filled them with gas. Even worse they would leak. The pads of the current phones were completely flat, indicating leaks. I am guessing that some fluid ended up in the transducers and some residue of the pad fluid may still be there. This liguid is probably responsible for the heavily deteriorated foam closest to the transducers and the corrosion on the circuit boards.

 For now I am just going to let them run for as many hours a I can on an FM station to break them in.

 It's been a cheap fun project. The phones themselves are fairly usable, i.e. they are still better than a whole lot of dynamics out there and I may yet find some way of turning them into the proverbial silk purse.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I understand your post and believe your wiring to be correct, although I have not did it yet because I still have a remaining brown wire that is run with those four colors mentioned. I'm trying to determine what the brown wire is for. This is the /E.9 energizer. Thank you for you input in this matter.
 Duggeh, there are 5 wires in that cable on this unit._

 

Is there a small sticker around the wires or some sort of a diagram on the back of the energizer? Koss made quite a few versions of the E.9 and some might have an extra grounding lead because they were having some grounding issues. The ESP9 is a textbook example of the KISS (keep it simple stupid) theory.


----------



## Dawoofer

No sticker other than the KOSS E/9 sticker with Pat. Pend. I will go ahead and hook up and leave the ground (brown) wire off and see what I get. Next it will be foam issues I'm sure as mine are flat earpads as well. I have a pair of 7's that are in the same condition. Thanks again for all whom have gave me information concerning these phones. I will report back on my progress.


----------



## thrice

Lambda Pro Woody:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No sticker other than the KOSS E/9 sticker with Pat. Pend. I will go ahead and hook up and leave the ground (brown) wire off and see what I get. Next it will be foam issues I'm sure as mine are flat earpads as well. I have a pair of 7's that are in the same condition. Thanks again for all whom have gave me information concerning these phones. I will report back on my progress._

 

You can always open them up and check with a multimeter to where the brown wire is connected. That's how I found out about the rest of the wires. The foam is surely rotted away but it's easy to put in new ones. 

 Although the earpads are out of production you can order the PRO4AA pads and they should fit. They still use the same headband as the ESP9's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Does anybody have pictures of the ESP6 with the insides intact. I ripped mine out in such a hurry I didn't memorize where each wire went and I'd rather not try it the hard way. They are pretty hard to read in the normal Koss way and I'd like to finish my makeshift ESP7's soon. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda Pro Woody:














_

 

Very nice!!


----------



## Dawoofer

How do those ear pads come off. The seem to be super glued around the edges. Seems like an awful tight stretch to get them on there. I haven't looked close enough to see how to disassemble them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do those ear pads come off. The seem to be super glued around the edges. Seems like an awful tight stretch to get them on there. I haven't looked close enough to see how to disassemble them._

 

It's a tight fit but they do come off. Put your fingers under the inside of the pad and push it outwards and off the phone.


----------



## milkpowder

thrice, I'm very impressed. Impressions?


----------



## wualta

They should give you a more solid-sounding bass, since the backwave has to travel a slightly greater distance to get to your ears. So yes, impressions and comparisons will be eagerly awaited.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They should give you a more solid-sounding bass, since the backwave has to travel a slightly greater distance to get to your ears. So yes, impressions and comparisons will be eagerly awaited._

 

Yes the bass is increased...more impressions to follow


----------



## atipod

I am thinking of trying other tubes with the Stax SRM-006tII.

 Do I need to adjust the bias?

 If yes, how?

 Any recommendation on tubes?


 Thanks


----------



## Carl

Appologies for my photography "skills". It's in amazingly good condition, even cosmetically. I wouldn't be at all suprised if it was in fully working order.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.mirumu.com/nmc/src/1175237695821.jpg[img]

 [img]http://www.mirumu.com/nmc/src/1175237773812.jpg[img]

 [img]http://www.mirumu.com/nmc/src/1175237812601.jpg[img]

 Appologies for my photography "skills". It's in amazingly good condition, even cosmetically. I wouldn't be at all suprised if it was in fully working order.[/i]
 [/td] [/tr] [/table]


Congrats on receiving it. 

 If there is nothing scorched or burned it should fire up just fine._


----------



## Carl

Amazingly, the thing _actually sounds good_. Not in the 'that's nice dear' kind of way, but the toe-tapping, face-grinning, 'oh yeah' kind. The thing will definately need repair - the channels constantly change volume, the pots are so scratchy you think there's cats fighting inside them, and everything just screems 'old electronics' - but importantly, it sounds like it's _worth_ fixing. I'm not sure how bad a condition it is as the only stepdown tranny I had on me was rated to a truely embarasing 25VA and it was very quiet, but signs are still promising.

 In any case, I am very happy about the condition they've come in. Once I've done it up it might be fun to compare with an 007t, just for kicks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amazingly, the thing actually sounds good. Not in the 'that's nice dear' kind of way, but the toe-tapping, face-grinning, 'oh yeah' kind. The thing will definately need repair - the channels constantly change volume, the pots are so scratchy you think there's cats fighting inside them, and everything just screems 'old electronics' - but importantly, it sounds like it's worth fixing. I'm not sure how bad a condition it is as the only stepdown tranny I had on me was rated to a truely embarasing 25VA and it was very quiet, but signs are still promising.

 In any case, I am very happy about the condition they've come in. Once I've done it up it might be fun to compare with an 007t, just for kicks._

 

It should be a fun restoration project. I'm glad I didn't buy it because I would go completely overboard in choosing the parts...


----------



## cosmopragma

Last week I've won an ebay auction for old Lambda Pros.
 Tuesday the postman rang at my door, and it turned out they are in near mint condition.
 The foam (dust protection I guess) is deteriorated, and the pleather pads seem to be hardened and therefor less comfortable compared to the pads of my modern SR 303s.Technically the old Pros are in perfect condition.No distortion or channel imbalance or whatever.
 Yesterday I asked the seller and he couldn't remember very well.All he knew is that he bought the headphones about 20 years ago and he realized soon that headphones audio is not to his liking.
 As far as he can remember the headphones have been used for maybe 20 or 30 hours and afterwards stored in a box for decades.
 Seems Stax used some crappy materials for the foam and pads that deteriorate without any usage.
 During the last days I've compared the old Pro to the new SR 303 connected to a SRD7 Pro/good loudspeaker amp (which I like way better than the SRM 313).
 They are different, and the difference is easily discernable.
 So far I seem to be the odd man out.I like the modern Lambdas better.Way better.
 Don't get me wrong: The old Lambdas do sound good but the modern sound better.I can't put my finger on it so far.It can't be the slightly different tonal balance since I usually do adjust to different tonal balance within seconds as long as it's not totally off, and the tonal balance of the two Lambdas is not *that* different.
 I could throw some audio lingo at this point .......
 Inner detail ...... air around blabla ......... more coherent headstage ....... transparency ..........
 ......... and whatnot, but in the end I believe in first hand experience and not in words about it, so you have to listen for yourself.
 Maybe the old Lambdas are not burned in yet or my brain isn't burned in yet .........
 I'll give it some time, but if it doesn't change I'll sell the Lambda Pro.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It should be a fun restoration project. I'm glad I didn't buy it because I would go completely overboard in choosing the parts... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm planning on using silver wire, tantalum resistors, oil/wax caps, high quality switches and possibly replacing the transformer.

 We're all madmen here.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm planning on using silver wire, tantalum resistors, oil/wax caps, high quality switches and possibly replacing the transformer.

 We're all madmen here._

 

It's always nice to know your not alone...

 Can the transformer be configured for other primary voltages?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's always nice to know your not alone...

 Can the transformer be configured for other primary voltages?_

 

Yes, and I'm going to have to reconfigure it to 230v. Running it through a 25VA stepdown is not an option.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, and I'm going to have to reconfigure it to 230v. Running it through a 25VA stepdown is not an option. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The stepdown could be seen as extra protection if something goes wrong. It will burst into flames long before anything else.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The stepdown could be seen as extra protection if something goes wrong. It will burst into flames long before anything else._

 

Yes, it will burst into flames because it's designed to run shavers and suchforth and it's being called on to power a tube amp. 

 The 7S doesn't seem like it's about to self destruct anytime soon.


----------



## thrice

Some initial (big grain 'o salt) impressions on the Lambda Woody:

 Bass: more pronounced than stock, definitely punchier

 Mids: More forward, less smooth, but seems like more texture

 Highs: Not rolled off, more like less accentuation, sparkle still there though

 headstage: less expansive than stock, but still wide, separation is a bit more pronounced

 These are just impressions from about 2 hours listening and will change a great deal I imagine. When I first put them on I was a bit dissapointed, but after warming them up and extended listening they quickly changed my mind. I'm not ready to sell the stock pair or the signature I have, but these are quite good and I'll probably bring them to the MD crew this weekend to get some outside opinions.


----------



## krmathis

Omega II, with "Buy It Now" on eBay. If anyone are interested... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda Pro Woody:














_

 

Looking great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have been planning to make woodies for my Lambda Pro's for several months now. I have a second pair on the way, so hopefully I will find some time soon... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some initial (big grain 'o salt) impressions on the Lambda Woody:

 Bass: more pronounced than stock, definitely punchier

 Mids: More forward, less smooth, but seems like more texture

 Highs: Not rolled off, more like less accentuation, sparkle still there though

 headstage: less expansive than stock, but still wide, separation is a bit more pronounced

 These are just impressions from about 2 hours listening and will change a great deal I imagine. When I first put them on I was a bit dissapointed, but after warming them up and extended listening they quickly changed my mind. I'm not ready to sell the stock pair or the signature I have, but these are quite good and I'll probably bring them to the MD crew this weekend to get some outside opinions._

 

Great to hear that the woodies make no major effect to the sound signature.
 Enjoy!


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been pretty dissapointed lately at the cost of the old Lambda's, considering that their modern counterparts can be bought new for about the same or less than the old ones._

 

Not sure what you think is the correct price for a pair of Lambda Pro's.
 Yesterday I won an eBay auction for a pair of Lambda Pro's, which seems to be in good condition (even the foam seems to be intact). I got them for $270, which I think is a pretty good deal.


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's seems like a semi-decent price. But the SR-202 can be bought for $280, and it's not over 20 years old._

 

Wow, this I just don't understand. To my ears, the only viable comparison to the Lambda Pro's are the 404's. As I've said before, in my system the Lambda Pro/SRD-7 Pro combination blew away the SRM-313/SR-303 setup, so much so that I just happily sold the latter for exactly what I paid for the former. I've never heard the 202, but nothing I've read would lead me to believe that they could compete with the 404 or Lambda Pro's. Considering the current market, $270 plus shipping is a great price for the LP's. While it's all well and good for some people to keep posting about how cheap the vintage stuff was a year or two ago, that's entirely irrelevant today when someone's just trying to build a system that will give them the best sound for the buck.

 There have been quite a few posts recently in this and other threads about how over-priced the Lambda Pro's and/or pro energiser boxes are. Frankly, I just don't get it the logic, because those same posters say that given the right amp, the SRD-7 Pro will blow away the SRM-313. They then go on to say that a reasonable price for the SRD-7 Pro is less than $100. Clearly there's something wonky about that. "Group think" works both ways, the only reasonable thing for someone to do is just let their own ears dictate what the appropriate amount would be to spend on the gear that wows them.

 It doesn't matter to me at all whether the gear is over 20 years old or brand new. I hope that headfier's are experienced enough to just spend their money on whether gives them the best sound, without relying on other people's value judgments about what the "proper" prices should be.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's good to hear. I've been pretty dissapointed lately at the cost of the old Lambda's, considering that their modern counterparts can be bought new for about the same or less than the old ones.

 I've started to wonder if everyone might be suffering from a case of groupthink. People say that they prefer the old Lambda's to the new, and then that idea becomes self-reinforcing as it influences everyone else's perceptions. I've personally never heard either the new or old Lambda's, yet I already have the perception ingrained in my head that the modern Lambda's are flawed and inaccurate, while the old Lambda's are the ultimate Stax bested only by the O2._

 

People are suffering from a bad case of group thinking but there is also personal preference. The SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro differ from the newer models in only one really significant way and that is their partially covered backwave. Membrane thickness has an effect but this has been hyped out of all proportions by Stax over the years as an easy way to sell models. "Their thinner so they must be better" has worked wonders. Stax abandoned the wool with the Lambda Signature because it does tamper with the ultimate clarity of the phones. Some like the slightly euphonic sound of the older models but it's more down to personal preference. Those that love the Pro's should hear the original normal bias unit. They take the even handed nature of the Pro's to another level. There is a reason why they were in production all those years after the Pro's were introduced. 

 Personally I prefer to leave the phones open and the SR-X Mk3 go from being good phones to excellent ones just by removing the wool. It does reveal the boxed in midrange and the tunneling effect of the enclosure but I'm a detail freak and that's where they deliver. 

 Times have also changed in the audio industry and the source components have gotten better along with the wiring and the amps. Old headphones couldn't be too revealing because then the owners would blame them for the bad sound but not the rest of the chain. When the Signature came out in '87 audio had changed quite a bit from 1982 so Stax upped the resolution ante. People complained about treble etching and a plastic feel to the sound and this is true out of the SRM-T1 but these artifacts are strangely missing with the Blue Hawaii. 

 It's normal audiophile tradition to blame the transducer if something sounds off and not look at other components. Some members here go through phones like there is no tomorrow but never change the amp, source or cables. Personal preference is a big issue but so is system matching. If you do not like some of the phones try another set of cables and see what a huge difference that can make.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's seems like a semi-decent price. But the SR-202 can be bought for $280, and it's not over 20 years old.

 And I bet that the person you got in from ships only within Europe. Any Stax auctions that ship to the US usually go higher._

 

That may be true, but having compared the Lambda Pro to the 202 I'd take the Lambda Pro every day of the week and thrice on Sunday.

 Plus you're comparing the top of the line headphone at it's time (Lambda Pro) to the current entry level model. Yes there is 20 years difference, but there was also a change in ownership as well. The current company called Stax isn't what it was in the 80s.

 As far as market prices go...the phones are selling for what people are willing to pay. There are deals available if you look hard and troll the various sites for them. While the group mentality may drive prices up initially, the consistent praise for some of these older headphones proves their worth (IMHO).

 I'd take a pair of Lambda Pros at $400 over any other electrostatic or dynamic headphone under $500 any day (thrice on Sunday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, this I just don't understand. To my ears, the only viable comparison to the Lambda Pro's are the 404's. As I've said before, in my system the Lambda Pro/SRD-7 Pro combination blew away the SRM-313/SR-303 setup, so much so that I just happily sold the latter for exactly what I paid for the former. I've never heard the 202, but nothing I've read would lead me to believe that they could compete with the 404 or Lambda Pro's. Considering the current market, $270 plus shipping is a great price for the LP's. While it's all well and good for some people to keep posting about how cheap the vintage stuff was a year or two ago, that's entirely irrelevant today when someone's just trying to build a system that will give them the best sound for the buck.

 There have been quite a few posts recently in this and other threads about how over-priced the Lambda Pro's and/or pro energiser boxes are. Frankly, I just don't get it the logic, because those same posters say that given the right amp, the SRD-7 Pro will blow away the SRM-313. They then go on to say that a reasonable price for the SRD-7 Pro is less than $100. Clearly there's something wonky about that. "Group think" works both ways, the only reasonable thing for someone to do is just let their own ears dictate what the appropriate amount would be to spend on the gear that wows them.

 It doesn't matter to me at all whether the gear is over 20 years old or brand new. I hope that headfier's are experienced enough to just spend their money on whether gives them the best sound, without relying on other people's value judgments about what the "proper" prices should be._

 

Going by market price that Head-fi has set isn't the best idea. This Stax fad will blow over like it has done in the past and then people are stuck with stuff they can't sell. You have to remember this happened on Headwize before there was even Head-fi and then the prices lowered and Stax was and an obscure brand for crazy people that didn't believe Sennheiser did in fact create the sun. The problem is with the people that buy Stax, because 90% of the are so happy with their systems that they leave the forums. It is not for be to stop people for paying what they think this stuff is worth but I urge people not to pay to much because they will loose the difference if they don't like what they bought. The SRD-7 with a good amp will beat the 313 in some areas and that's fine but I can't see the reason with paying 200$ for just the adapter because you might like the cleaner cut sound of the direct drive amp more. 

 Buying 20 year old equipment is never a good idea unless you know how to fix it if something goes wrong. Stax has made some horrible design blunders over the years but there are very few in the Lambda line and those are mostly on the arc assembly and how it connects with the earcup. If your 500$ vintage Pro's break and you can't fix it, it will cost a huge sum to repair and you will get the new drivers so unless you *really* like the old headband design it wasn't the smartest buy you've ever made. I don't want this to happen to anyone but it has happened and it will happen to some of you. Hell it has happened to me enough times...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's seems like a semi-decent price. But the SR-202 can be bought for $280, and it's not over 20 years old._

 

You are right that the SR-202 can be bought _new_ for the same money as a 20 years old Lambda Pro. But most of us don't rank the SR-202 to be on par with the Lambda Pro anyway, so it is not an alternative...

 I say it all comes down to personal preference.
 Some like vintage headphones, with some wear and tear, but with their own sound signature. While other ones like to buy their headphones new. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The same goes to amplifiers and energizers.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Going by market price that Head-fi has set isn't the best idea. This Stax fad will blow over like it has done in the past and then people are stuck with stuff they can't sell. You have to remember this happened on Headwize before there was even Head-fi and then the prices lowered and Stax was and an obscure brand for crazy people that didn't believe Sennheiser did in fact create the sun. The problem is with the people that buy Stax, because 90% of the are so happy with their systems that they leave the forums. It is not for be to stop people for paying what they think this stuff is worth but I urge people not to pay to much because they will loose the difference if they don't like what they bought. The SRD-7 with a good amp will beat the 313 in some areas and that's fine but I can't see the reason with paying 200$ for just the adapter because you might like the cleaner cut sound of the direct drive amp more. 

 Buying 20 year old equipment is never a good idea unless you know how to fix it if something goes wrong. Stax has made some horrible design blunders over the years but there are very few in the Lambda line and those are mostly on the arc assembly and how it connects with the earcup. If your 500$ vintage Pro's break and you can't fix it, it will cost a huge sum to repair and you will get the new drivers so unless you *really* like the old headband design it wasn't the smartest buy you've ever made. I don't want this to happen to anyone but it has happened and it will happen to some of you. Hell it has happened to me enough times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

While it is an economic reality that all bubbles eventually burst, what a lot of headfier's don't realize is that a significant number of music aficionados are not gear-geeks who buy far more equipment than they ever listen to. For many of us, buying and selling gear is not an endless road. Once you find the sound that makes you happy, you sell off all of the excess gear that you've auditioned along the way. The current Stax prices may not last or they may continue going up, in either case, I couldn't care less since I've got the gear I want already. That thinking applies to all markets: the rise and fall of the housing market is irrelevant for anyone who simply lives in their house. This approach however, is likely not to be common on a site like headfi that clearly caters to those who continue to spend loads of money to acheive relatively minor improvements.

 You've made some very good points, however, including the particularly important one that newbies shouldn't pay high prices for something they haven't heard. Some will prefer the 313, others will prefer the power amp/SRD-7 pro combination -- I just find that putting arbitrary dollar values on it simply due to age or some fear of "group-think" is absurd. The same folks who say $200 is too much to spend on an SRD-7 Pro box will then turn around and advise someone to spend thousands on dedicated headphone amps (including some that are notoriously unreliable even when brand new). Where's the consistency?

 Your points relating to potential reliability issues are well taken, but there are many Lambda Pro users here that haven't had any problems thus far (knock on wood). Ultimately, you pays your money and you takes your chances.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The SRD-7 with a good amp will beat the 313 in some areas and that's fine but I can't see the reason with paying 200$ for just the adapter because you might like the cleaner cut sound of the direct drive amp more._

 

I cannot think of a single area where my 313 out does my SRD-7 Pro Melos/Aleph combo. Nothing at all. The transformer combo has it beat in virtually every area you can think of ,Period.


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While it is an economic reality that all bubbles eventually burst, what a lot of headfier's don't realize is that a significant number of music aficionados are not gear-geeks who buy far more equipment than they ever listen to. For many of us, buying and selling gear is not an endless road. Once you find the sound that makes you happy, you sell off all of the excess gear that you've auditioned along the way. The current Stax prices may not last or they may continue going up, in either case, I couldn't care less since I've got the gear I want already. That thinking applies to all markets: the rise and fall of the housing market is irrelevant for anyone who simply lives in their house. This approach however, is likely not to be common on a site like headfi that clearly caters to those who continue to spend loads of money to acheive relatively minor improvements.

 You've made some very good points, however, including the particularly important one that newbies shouldn't pay high prices for something they haven't heard. Some will prefer the 313, others will prefer the power amp/SRD-7 pro combination -- I just find that putting arbitrary dollar values on it simply due to age or some fear of "group-think" is absurd. The same folks who say $200 is too much to spend on an SRD-7 Pro box will then turn around and advise someone to spend thousands on dedicated headphone amps (including some that are notoriously unreliable even when brand new). Where's the consistency?

 Your points relating to potential reliability issues are well taken, but there are many Lambda Pro users here that haven't had any problems thus far (knock on wood). Ultimately, you pays your money and you takes your chances._

 

The gear hounds will move onto other things. They have done so in the past and will do so again. I've seen so many FOTM here I can't count them any more so if you think your investment was worth it that's great but others will get burned. 

 Comparing the SRD-7 to a good amp is crazy. A good amp will always have better clarity, dynamics and control over the drivers. You pay a huge premium for this but so is life.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I personally wouldn't pay a whole lot for an SRD-7 Pro even if it supposedly sounds better because there's just not that much to it._

 

Ok, there's that wonky logic again. You wouldn't pay more for something that sounds better because of the value of the parts that went into it? Here we go with the Grado RA-1 argument again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, I'm interested in how people arrived at the conclusion that the old Lambda's sound better._

 

Speaking just for myself, I bought some Lambda Pro's and spent a lot of time listening to them along with the 303's and 404's that I owned at the same time. I personally find the difference between the Lambda Pro's and 404's to be small and a matter of personal preference, but the 303 is clearly a rung below.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-303, which is for all intents and purposes identical to the SR-404, costs $305 shipped from pricejapan._

 

Wow, have you ever owned both the 303 and the 404 and compared them over an extended time period?


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While it is an economic reality that all bubbles eventually burst, what a lot of headfier's don't realize is that a significant number of music aficionados are not gear-geeks who buy far more equipment than they ever listen to. For many of us, buying and selling gear is not an endless road. Once you find the sound that makes you happy, you sell off all of the excess gear that you've auditioned along the way._

 

DAMNIT...How come no one told _me _that!?! There are more than a few people on these boards who have a headphone collection...even if it's 2-4 pairs.

  Quote:


 The current Stax prices may not last or they may continue going up, in either case, I couldn't care less since I've got the gear I want already. That thinking applies to all markets: the rise and fall of the housing market is irrelevant for anyone who simply lives in their house. 
 

I don't think that's a good analogy. A house is an investment and you can be damn sure that if you buy a house at one price and 5 years later it has depreciated you'll be concerned as a homeowner regardless of whether your house is paid off or not. You may live in the house for an extended period of time, but throughout that time it is an investment, and most people don't want their investment to go down in value. The same can be said with vintage items.

  Quote:


 You've made some very good points, however, including the particularly important one that newbies shouldn't pay high prices for something they haven't heard. Some will prefer the 313, others will prefer the power amp/SRD-7 pro combination -- I just find that putting arbitrary dollar values on it simply due to age or some fear of "group-think" is absurd. The same folks who say $200 is too much to spend on an SRD-7 Pro box will then turn around and advise someone to spend thousands on dedicated headphone amps (including some that are notoriously unreliable even when brand new). Where's the consistency? 
 

I agree.

  Quote:


 Your points relating to potential reliability issues are well taken, but there are many Lambda Pro users here that haven't had any problems thus far (knock on wood). Ultimately, you pays your money and you takes your chances. 
 

I guess it depends on how you treat your gear. The Lambda Pro headband certainly seems less than rugged. But yes there's a risk with vintage gear...vintage anything really.


----------



## smeggy

For me the transformer/amp was better sounding (only criteria I use) to me than either 313 I owned. Details, dynamics etc are all secondary to the overall sound and I like what I'm getting now. I will be getting an SRD-7 at some stage but not until the prices are better than the current fad levels. I'm in no hurry as my stuff sounds great right now.

 One of the reasons I'm not posting much in the Stax thread is because I now have what I like (SR-X, 003) and am content to wait for a good priced SRD-7 to complete it to where I want to be. I do think there is a bit of a feeding frenzy going on and someday there's going to be quite a bit of indigestion to deal with but so long as people understand what they are getting and are happy with current pricings that's fine. 

 I'm sure many are paying well over the odds through some sense of desperation as inflated prices seem the norm. I was having the same issues with the current K1000 love-fest. Luckily I managed to score mine at well below Head-fi prices. I might be daft but I'm not crazy. One day the Stax mania will subside and prices will return to more sane levels... and then I pounce. heheh


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Although the earpads are out of production you can order the PRO4AA pads and they should fit. They still use the same headband as the ESP9's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Does anybody have pictures of the ESP6 with the insides intact. I ripped mine out in such a hurry I didn't memorize where each wire went and I'd rather not try it the hard way. They are pretty hard to read in the normal Koss way and I'd like to finish my makeshift ESP7's soon. _

 


 The replacement earpads are about $5.00. 

 I didn't take photos when it took the ESP6's apart but I can do so in a few weeks when I get back from a trip.

 The sound of the ESP6 is pretty good for rock/pop not so good for classical. And there are still serious volume fluctuations apparently as the self-bias goes up and down too much.

 I was interested in these partly because I had a pair many years ago which impressed me and most people who heard them. I am not certain that my current ones are up to spec, and I know that there are bias problems, but comparing them with the Koss ESP 950 and current Stax 404 and Sigma/404, with a 717 amp, I would have to say that the equipment has improved a lot over the years. In fact the only real advantage of the ESP 6 is that it has great isolation.

 While there are big differences going from an early Koss to the ESP 950, there are not many differences in the Lambdas over the 20 or so years. Is it possible that some of the attraction may be that the diaphragms are just well broken-in? Maybe the plastic cures like the wood in a Stradivarius violin? 

 Whether they are really better or not, I don't see the prices of the classic Stax going down. The supply is no longer increasing, I mean, have you ever seen an SRX III pro for sale? So some of them may become virtual museum pieces.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The replacement earpads are about $5.00. 

 I didn't take photos when it took the ESP6's apart but I can do so in a few weeks when I get back from a trip.

 The sound of the ESP6 is pretty good for rock/pop not so good for classical. And there are still serious volume fluctuations apparently as the self-bias goes up and down too much.

 I was interested in these partly because I had a pair many years ago which impressed me and most people who heard them. I am not certain that my current ones are up to spec, and I know that there are bias problems, but comparing them with the Koss ESP 950 and current Stax 404 and Sigma/404, with a 717 amp, I would have to say that the equipment has improved a lot over the years. In fact the only real advantage of the ESP 6 is that it has great isolation.

 While there are big differences going from an early Koss to the ESP 950, there are not many differences in the Lambdas over the 20 or so years. Is it possible that some of the attraction may be that the diaphragms are just well broken-in? Maybe the plastic cures like the wood in a Stradivarius violin? 

 Whether they are really better or not, I don't see the prices of the classic Stax going down. The supply is no longer increasing, I mean, have you ever seen an SRX III pro for sale? So some of them may become virtual museum pieces._

 

It would be great to get some pictures of the wires then. I've been restoring the internal PCB's and they should work but I don't want to fry any think just because I connected it wrong. In the usual Koss way the design is far from straight forward. 

 The plastic does cure a bit over the years but I think it's more down to the way gear was designed back then. It was warmer and more appealing but today every thing is bright and edgy with more "detail". Some like it some don't.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think that's a good analogy. A house is an investment and you can be damn sure that if you buy a house at one price and 5 years later it has depreciated you'll be concerned as a homeowner regardless of whether your house is paid off or not. You may live in the house for an extended period of time, but throughout that time it is an investment, and most people don't want their investment to go down in value. The same can be said with vintage items._

 

Well we may be going off topic a bit, but I would say your statement may be a generational one -- it certainly reflects standard modern economic views. The housing market in the US and many other parts of the world has seen a classic bubble develop largely because of the excess liquidity that has been created. Throughout history, however, in societies without easy money creation (inflation), houses have never been looked at as investments. They're just the homes that you live in and raise your kids in. You rarely owned more than one and you didn't flip them for quick profits. In stable economies like those, your house didn't appreciate or depreciate in value, it just served its function and held its value. What I'm saying is that our viewpoints on pricing may differ if we apply that standard to our vintage Stax gear. The bubble exists because of people who own a gazillion pairs of cans and constantly surf eBay in multiple languages in search of more. Adding fuel to the situation are speculators who buy and resell to make a quick buck. It's not fueled by the occasional discerning music lover who has auditioned a lot of gear and has settled into his sound. If we really want to do something about the current pricing situation, we should agree to sell our excess gear to each other at reasonable prices rather than launch bidding wars against each other.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the SRD-7 Pro ends up increasing in value to beyond a certain point, it makes more sense economically to just build one for cheaper. Or maybe just mod a low bias SRD-7 to work with high bias phones._

 

Well, that's the point. It doesn't make sense economically to "just build one for cheaper". Professional billing rates being what they are today, a couple hundred bucks may get you a handful of parts and two hours worth of someone's time. Good luck with that. We've discussed potentially modding a low-bias box on this and previous threads extensively and to my knowledge it's gone nowhere. That's why I've said before (and am saying again) that given the right amp, the SRD-7 Pro is the best value going to drive your Stax. I don't see anything even close to it below $800 or so on the used market. Given that, $200 certainly doesn't seem unreasonable. (That said, I recently sold my extra one to another headfier for significantly less than two bills.)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The guy at 6moons.com disagrees with you though._

 

That review is why I initially bought the 3030 Classic. It's a great intro to the Stax universe, but for me there was a far better option for the price because I already had a suitable power amp. When I bought my used 404 and compared them to the 303, I was absolutely stunned that the sixmoons guy couldn't hear the difference. Maybe all the flowery language he was writing befuddled his senses.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Omega II, with "Buy It Now" on eBay. If anyone are interested... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks krmathis,
 I just joined the Omega II club!

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

You know that when you start treating your hobbies as a financial investment you're doing it wrong. Just do things however you want to do them, there's no need for justifying your actions.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Me? Nope. I wish I could own both, and a Lambda Pro too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Speaking of which, there's a _very_ nice pair for sale at the moment. Go look in the usual places and you'll find it.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro differ from the newer models in only one really significant way and that is their partially covered backwave. Membrane thickness has an effect but this has been hyped out of all proportions by Stax over the years as an easy way to sell models._

 


 I thought that the stators were completely different (perferated metal vs. wire mesh).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Omega II, with "Buy It Now" on eBay. If anyone are interested... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

Thanks krmathis,
 I just joined the Omega II club!

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My pleasure!
 Welcome to the Omega II club, I am certain you will enjoy the stay.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought that the stators were completely different (perferated metal vs. wire mesh)._

 

It, along with the membrane thickness, pales in the difference with the backwave management. There is one thing about the membrane thickness that many don't know is that while it can be very thin and light the coating that is added to it can add considerable mass. You can get more from a thicker diaphragm with a light coating under more tension then if you were to use a thinner diaphragm under less tension. It's all about the balance so it is fact a bit of a black art.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks krmathis,
 I just joined the Omega II club!

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Congrats !! And welcome to team OII.
 (and those were fellow Head-Fier nikongods OIIs) So you won't have any worries .


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks krmathis,
 I just joined the Omega II club!

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

CONGRATS!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 And, I want to express my gratitude to ShaolinRasta for the great deal on the SRD-7 Pro. I have some work to do, setting up my old Audio Research preamp and Perreaux PMF-3150 to test the Lambdas and O2s, now!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... and where, oh where, did I put my Dynaco ST-70 (modded)?? I've got too much stuff when I can lose a frikken power amp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Reports to come! Thanks, Dennison!!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats !! And welcome to team OII.
 (and those were fellow Head-Fier nikongods OIIs) So you won't have any worrys ._

 

Thanks... Good to know.
 I will be using them with a SRM-1mkII and SRD-7 Pro until I get a amp. I'm eyeing the Woo GES. I also ordered some custom made step-up transformers that will have the ability to switch between 25:1 and 50:1 turns ratios.

 AudioD


----------



## tyre

Anyone else notice those Stanton Isophase Mark III electrostats on Ebay? The headphones are hideous, but the energizer looks nice.

 Hmm, I need to start going after obscure e-stats rather than obsess over Stax prices...


----------



## Veniogenesis

How much exactly was Nikongod asking for? I remember he said something around $1,300?

 All this talk about prices has me got me depressed again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *Goes over to think about his $550+ Sigma Pros...* ;_;


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Goes over to think about his $550+ Sigma Pros...* ;_;_

 

I'd be happy to help you there


----------



## milkpowder

He was asking $1.3k for the O2s? What a nice price!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much exactly was Nikongod asking for? I remember he said something around $1,300?

 All this talk about prices has me got me depressed again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *Goes over to think about his $550+ Sigma Pros...* ;_;_

 

$1350 + $10 freight. I think Audio Cubes was $1850 for new + freight.

 AudioD


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much exactly was Nikongod asking for? I remember he said something around $1,300?_

 

You mean the Omega II that just sold on eBay? It had an "Buy It Now" price at $1,350.00
eBay.com -> Stax Omega 2 Headphones

 An excellent deal if you ask me!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know that when you start treating your hobbies as a financial investment you're doing it wrong. Just do things however you want to do them, there's no need for justifying your actions._

 

That's my view on things too. I'm happy with the cheap deals I got on my SR-X and SRD-7 Mk2 and refuse to pay the going rate for Lambda Pros but it's not because I'm concerned about resale values. There will always be the latest FOTM, all we can do is make a personal decision on whether or not the going price is justified and if we're willing to pay it. There will also always be people bucking the trends and more power to them I say.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean the Omega II that just sold on eBay? It had an "Buy It Now" price at $1,350.00
eBay.com -> Stax Omega 2 Headphones

 An excellent deal if you ask me! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Again, what a great price! I'm surprised no one bought them from him when he was trying to sell them on Head-Fi...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's my view on things too. I'm happy with the cheap deals I got on my SR-X and SRD-7 Mk2 and refuse to pay the going rate for Lambda Pros but it's not because I'm concerned about resale values. There will always be the latest FOTM, all we can do is make a personal decision on whether or not the going price is justified and if we're willing to pay it. There will also always be people bucking the trends and more power to them I say._

 

I get what you're saying and agree with you. However, I don't really see anything wrong with buying headphones with collector's mindset. If they're going to be your last pair, then I can see why you ignore resale value completely. However, if you know you're going to lose your money on it despite it sounding good, I think morally, you should be allowed to pass on the "deal". I personally wouldn't buy something headphone related when I know very well that the resell value is going to be significantly lower (with the exception of my custom IEMs). For me, money is money especially when I didn't earn it. That said, it really depends on the price of the object and whether it's, for me, expensive. If the thing is 10 bucks and the used value is 2 bucks, I'll still get it. However, if the things 1000 bucks and the resale value is probably going to plummet down to 500 bucks, then I think I'd pass.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Again, what a great price! I'm surprised no one bought them from him when he was trying to sell them on Head-Fi..._

 

From what he told me, he wasn't willing to sell the OII before he sold his 717.

 Cheers,
 Venio

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be happy to help you there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hehe, first I listen to them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (I _still_ haven't gotten them yet. Blehhh.)


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Stax abandoned the wool with the Lambda Signature because it does tamper with the ultimate clarity of the phones. Some like the slightly euphonic sound of the older models but it's more down to personal preference._

 

That might explain what I'm hearing when I'm listening through the Pros.
 You are right, the back is covered with wooly stuff.
 When I hold my SR 303s in front of a light bulb they are semitransparent, and the Pros are not.


----------



## cosmopragma

All this talk about "high" prices of Lambda Pros is so odd and at least a question of perspective.
 I mean, these thingies aren't exactly rare in Germany.
 krmathis got these, I got these, and tomorrow you could get these.
 All that within ten days.
 I've payed for the Pros and a modded SRD7Pro combined about 260 Euros or ~$ 340 (shipping included).This is considered to be expensive?
 No, this is an excellent price/performance ratio and you'd be hard pressed to get a better deal in the headphones audio realm.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get what you're saying and agree with you. However, I don't really see anything wrong with buying headphones with collector's mindset. If they're going to be your last pair, then I can see why you ignore resale value completely. However, if you know you're going to lose your money on it despite it sounding good, I think morally, you should be allowed to pass on the "deal". I personally wouldn't buy something headphone related when I know very well that the resell value is going to be significantly lower (with the exception of my custom IEMs). For me, money is money especially when I didn't earn it. That said, it really depends on the price of the object and whether it's, for me, expensive. If the thing is 10 bucks and the used value is 2 bucks, I'll still get it. However, if the things 1000 bucks and the resale value is probably going to plummet down to 500 bucks, then I think I'd pass._

 

Sure, people can look into it as an investment if they want but I don't personally think it's the best way to maximise the enjoyment of a hobby (unless investing is a hobby in itself). To each their own of course, I'm certainly not about to tell anyone what is right for them. If someone told me that my Omega 2s would be worthless in six months I'd still have no regrets in buying them even if I knew I'd eventually find something I liked better. I've got a few projects in the pipeline such as dismembering my SR-404s to build some custom cups. I'm hoping that the results provide nice improvements but I could just as easily stuff it up and ruin a good pair of headphones in the process. It's a risk and downright stupid from an investment point of view but aspiring to greatness always takes a few risks and even our failures can provide valuable experience.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this talk about "high" prices of Lambda Pros is so odd and at least a question of perspective.
 I mean, these thingies aren't exactly rare in Germany. This is considered to be expensive?
 No, this is an excellent price/performance ratio and you'd be hard pressed to get a better deal in the headphones audio realm._

 

It's a differerent story with Lambda Pros on eBay USA, Head-Fi, and Audiogon.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get what you're saying and agree with you. However, I don't really see anything wrong with buying headphones with collector's mindset._

 

Is the hobby collecting headphones or listening to headphones? I have no issue with either, lots of people out there collect old comic books or movie paraphernalia or whathaveyou and then proceed to never even look at the stuff for fear of lowering its value. People get enjoyment out of doing that, so it's certainly a true hobby. It's only an issue when one starts confusing the two and lose track of the difference between something's collector's value and its musical value.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a differerent story with Lambda Pros on eBay USA, Head-Fi, and Audiogon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, half my gear is from Europe because you can buy it cheaper from there even though it was originally a lot more expensive than in the US. I'm not sure why prices are so high for this gear over here but I look on ebay.de and UK a lot more than ebay USA, Agon and head-fi.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, half my gear is from Europe because you can buy it cheaper from there even though it was originally a lot more expensive than in the US. I'm not sure why prices are so high for this gear over here but I look on ebay.de and UK a lot more than ebay USA, Agon and head-fi.



_

 

Hmmm, do most eBay.de and UK sellers ship to the U.S.?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, do most eBay.de and UK sellers ship to the U.S.?_

 

Many do, even if the auctions indicate they don't. If you're serious about the item, ask the seller.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this talk about "high" prices of Lambda Pros is so odd and at least a question of perspective.
 I mean, these thingies aren't exactly rare in Germany.
 krmathis got these, I got these, and tomorrow you could get these.
 All that within ten days.
 I've payed for the Pros and a modded SRD7Pro combined about 260 Euros or ~$ 340 (shipping included).This is considered to be expensive?
 No, this is an excellent price/performance ratio and you'd be hard pressed to get a better deal in the headphones audio realm._

 

Exactly!
 I think the current Lambda Pro prices are fair if you compare them against equipment that is comparable in sound quality.
 The three Lambda Pro auctions you link to (where I won one of them) are limited to German or European bidders. Auctions open for international bidders tend to go noticeable higher. The same could be said for eBay US, Head-Fi and AudiogoN.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get what you're saying and agree with you. However, I don't really see anything wrong with buying headphones with collector's mindset._

 

Neither do I.
 I look at some of my Stax buys with collectors mindset (Lambda Pro x2, SR-D/MK3 x2, SRD-7 Pro, SRD-7 MK2, ...), and have no problems with it.
 Of course I enjoy listeing to the gear as well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, do most eBay.de and UK sellers ship to the U.S.?_

 

Most eBay.de and UK sellers limit to their own country (Germany or UK). Then some open up to EU (or once in a while Europe), while worldwide sales are a bit rare.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly!
 I think the current Lambda Pro prices are fair if you compare them against equipment that is comparable in sound quality.
 The three Lambda Pro auctions you link to (where I won one of them) are limited to German or European bidders. Auctions open for international bidders tend to go noticeable higher. The same could be said for eBay US, Head-Fi and AudiogoN._

 

I think it depends on what prices you're talking about. I'd probably be happy to pay somewhere around $270 for Lambda Pros myself (although I'd rather hear some normal bias Lambda's personally) but $500 or $600...not a chance.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it depends on what prices you're talking about. I'd probably be happy to pay somewhere around $270 for Lambda Pros myself (although I'd rather hear some normal bias Lambda's personally) but $500 or $600...not a chance._

 

Fair enough. Since the Lambda Pro sell for anything between $220 and $500.

 I mean the price the last pairs sold for on eBay ($220, $270, ...). Their average sale price is most probably lower than for the SR-404. Those $500 sales are rare, at least so far.. he he


----------



## Veniogenesis

Does anyone want to take a shot at estimating the rarity of various vintage Staxes, in terms of comparison with each other? I thought Lambda Pros were rare, but apparently they're only rare in the U.S. market.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone want to take a shot at estimating the rarity of various vintage Staxes, in terms of comparison with each other? I thought Lambda Pros were rare, but apparently they're only rare in the U.S. market. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They're not rare at all. Multiple per month is not rare. SR-X Pros are rare, I've seen two total. HE90s and SR-Ωs are rare, only a few hundred of each in the world. Gamma Pros are more common than Alphas for inexplicable reasons. SR-1s are one of the rarest, probably few surviving examples, SR-3/3N/5/5N are fairly common. Sigmas/SPs are moderately rare but not hugely so. Most of Stax's headphones can be found if you can wait a few months with a few exceptions.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're not rare at all. Multiple per month is not rare. SR-X Pros are rare, I've seen two total. HE90s and SR-Ωs are rare, only a few hundred of each in the world. Gamma Pros are more common than Alphas for inexplicable reasons. SR-1s are one of the rarest, probably few surviving examples, SR-3/3N/5/5N are fairly common. Sigmas/SPs are moderately rare but not hugely so. Most of Stax's headphones can be found if you can wait a few months with a few exceptions._

 

Haha, I see. I hadn't been watching closely earlier and missed seeing all those auctions. I should play the game of patience and hone my hunting skills.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone want to take a shot at estimating the rarity of various vintage Staxes, in terms of comparison with each other?_

 

Something like this (most rare on top):
 SR-X/MK3 Pro
 SR-Omega
 SR-Gamma Pro
 SR-Sigma Pro
 SR-Sigma
 SR-Lambda
 SR-Lambda Pro
 SR-X/MK3
 SR-5

 Based on memories of what I have seen, or not seen, come up for sale the last year.
  Quote:


 I thought Lambda Pros were rare, but apparently they're only rare in the U.S. market. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Lambda Pro's show up on eBay at a regular basis, about once or twice a week. So I don't consider them to be _that_ rare.


----------



## cosmopragma

Could someone in the know please elaborate about the differences (if any ) between the SR 202 and SR 303?
 I'm attending a mini meet today.There's already a 202, and I wonder if it makes sense to bring the SR 303.


----------



## milkpowder

SR-303 has a nicer cable? That's all I know really
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes of course bring along your SR-303! People should aim to bring as much stuff to meets as possible so more people can listen at the same time!


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-303 has a nicer cable? That's all I know really
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Yes of course bring along your SR-303! People should aim to bring as much stuff to meets as possible so more people can listen at the same time!_

 

We are only three listeners and lots of headphones/amps/sources.More than we can critically compare during one evening anyway.
 It's a 90 minutes drive by means of public transportation.I literally have to schlepp the gear.I do own 12 headphones, five amps and three sources so what's not absolutely necessary will remain at home anyway.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone in the know please elaborate about the differences (if any ) between the SR 202 and SR 303?
 I'm attending a mini meet today.There's already a 202, and I wonder if it makes sense to bring the SR 303._

 

As far as I know the SR-202 has different drivers to the SR-303. The SR-303 and SR-404 share the same drivers but the SR-404 has a better cable (The same cable as the Omega IIs).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* 
_Something like this (most rare on top):
 SR-X/MK3 Pro
 SR-Omega
 SR-Gamma Pro
 SR-Sigma Pro
 SR-Sigma
 SR-Lambda
 SR-Lambda Pro
 SR-X/MK3
 SR-5

 Based on memories of what I have seen, or not seen, come up for sale the last year._

 

The SR-X Mk3 more common than the Lambdas? Perhaps I've not been looking in the right places but I've seen far more Lambdas come up for sale. Otherwise it looks about right to me.


----------



## _LN_

I got an SRM-3 with Lambda Nova Classic off ebay from a fellow headfier sometime last year, and then immediately stopped reading this forum, because I knew I'd just be buying more and more expensive and unnecessary jun... *cough* I mean, collector's items, such as the baby Staxen, AKG K 340, and several kinds of dynamic Koss and Sennheiser cans I already got.
 Anyway, I stumbled across this thread doing a Google search, and was wondering if anyone could suggest a cheap alternative for the protective foam on the Novas. That kind of foam appears to be virtually impossible to find separately, and I'd rather not replace the entire ear pads, since the pads themselves are in good condition -- it's just the protective foam that's partly gone.

 Alternatively, is it safe, both for the cans and for myself, to use them without the foam for now?

 Also, should I decide to replace the pads after all, which currently available ones would properly fit the Novas?

 Ellen


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The transformers ... lack all of the macro and micro dynamics and detail retrieval that makes the BH so great. The effortless power and the way instruments and voices just appear out of the immense blackness in the background. You can not beat an OTL amp even though some might prefer transformers._

 

I quote part of Spritzer's post from earlier in the thread, because it's a concise summary of my initial impressions.

 And it's not just the Blue Hawaii... Using the SRM-007tII - well, it's just not even close. Last night I managed to connect two different amps (albeit, oldies, they're still pretty decent compared to most present-day mid-priced equipment) and A/B both the SR-Lambdas and the Omega IIs (details of systems apprended below). If I had to characterize in one word the sound coming from the transformer, I would say: "compressed." I understand the turns ratio is fairly high (probably to achieve adequate voltage/sound levels with the modest receivers of the time) and this may contribute to the squashing together of dynamics and loss of fine detail and "air." On both SR-Lambdas and OIIs, the musicality, or "realness" of music I'm used to hearing was just not there, or seriously attenuated, compared with the Stax amp. 

 As expected, the Dynaco ST-70 was significantly more musical than the Perreaux. What was surprising was how well the Dynaco handled the lows. (Probably the lower damping factor, as compared with the Perreaux, is not as much a problem for the modest tube powered amp when not being asked to drive room speakers.) The bass was quite good from either amp. If I'd never heard both 'phones through the Stax amp, I would have said the overall sound was very good. The difference in direct comparison, though, replaying the same passages of music I'm very familiar with, with only the time needed to move the 'phones from one jack to the other, was not subtle.

 I have more testing to do, but have satisfied myself already that the SRM-007tII is well worth the money they are going for. I do not believe spending significantly more than this on an amplifier to use with the transformer could make up for the compression and loss of air brought on by the aggressive conversion the box uses to move from low to high impedence (it would be interesting to hear the results from a DIY box using the lower ratio-ed transformers we discussed earlier in this thread). Of course, I will report back any new information as I continue to test (I haven't tried the 16 ohm taps on the ST-70 yet, for instance), but I really do not expect the results to change much. It's just not close.

 So, based on this, there's no doubt left in my mind that I'd try to make the jump to a dedicated amp like the SRM-007tII or 727, (the SRM-006tII has been pretty much universally maligned, although I've not listened to one at length) as the most economical good solution (they can be had for well under 1500 with JA-voltage/warranty, and for not much more with US power supply and warranty). I will be testing a KGSS in the near future, and, at 1500 bucks, that amp may well be an even better choice than the SRM-007tII - we shall see. Other dedicated amps would probably also yield the same great results. At any rate, there is a huge difference here, and, imo, it merits careful consideration for those looking for the best sound from their Staxen. If I had an old amp laying around and an SRD-7 Pro, sure, I'd use it to get over the hump until I could obtain a good dedicated amp, but I'd know that I'm just not hearing that 20 per cent of extra detail and additional musicality my earspeakers are capable of providing. 

 My views, my ears, and, as always, your mileage may vary!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Equipment Used:

 Apple Lossless rips from iTunes through Airport Express to Electrocompaniet ECD-1. Silver balanced cables to SRM-007tII; unbalanced feed (decent cables) to Audio Research SP-9 preamp using line level input and then to either Perreau PMF-3150 or Dynaco ST-70 to SRD-7 PRO.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X Mk3 more common than the Lambdas? Perhaps I've not been looking in the right places but I've seen far more Lambdas come up for sale. Otherwise it looks about right to me._

 

I know that the SR-X MKIII is apparently rather common in the United States. From people who I've talked to, the older generation people in the U.S. who know the brand "Stax" know the brand because they bought Stax headphones in the 80s; most had the SR-X MKII/MKIII.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I quote part of Spritzer's post from earlier in the thread, because it's a concise summary of my initial impressions.

 And it's not just the Blue Hawaii... Using the SRM-007tII - well, it's just not even close. Last night I managed to connect two different amps (albeit, oldies, they're still pretty decent compared to most present-day mid-priced equipment) and A/B both the SR-Lambdas and the Omega IIs (details of systems apprended below). If I had to characterize in one word the sound coming from the transformer, I would say: "compressed." I understand the turns ratio is fairly high (probably to achieve adequate voltage/sound levels with the modest receivers of the time) and this may contribute to the squashing together of dynamics and loss of fine detail and "air." On both SR-Lambdas and OIIs, the musicality, or "realness" of music I'm used to hearing was just not there, or seriously attenuated, compared with the Stax amp. 

 As expected, the Dynaco ST-70 was significantly more musical than the Perreaux. What was surprising was how well the Dynaco handled the lows. (Probably the lower damping factor, as compared with the Perreaux, is not as much a problem for the modest tube powered amp when not being asked to drive room speakers.) The bass was quite good from either amp. If I'd never heard both 'phones through the Stax amp, I would have said the overall sound was very good. The difference in direct comparison, though, replaying the same passages of music I'm very familiar with, with only the time needed to move the 'phones from one jack to the other, was not subtle.

 I have more testing to do, but have satisfied myself already that the SRM-007tII is well worth the money they are going for. I do not believe spending significantly more than this on an amplifier to use with the transformer could make up for the compression and loss of air brought on by the aggressive conversion the box uses to move from low to high impedence (it would be interesting to hear the results from a DIY box using the lower ratio-ed transformers we discussed earlier in this thread). Of course, I will report back any new information as I continue to test (I haven't tried the 16 ohm taps on the ST-70 yet, for instance), but I really do not expect the results to change much. It's just not close.

 So, based on this, there's no doubt left in my mind that I'd try to make the jump to a dedicated amp like the SRM-007tII or 727, (the SRM-006tII has been pretty much universally maligned, although I've not listened to one at length) as the most economical good solution (they can be had for well under 1500 with JA-voltage/warranty, and for not much more with US power supply and warranty). I will be testing a KGSS in the near future, and, at 1500 bucks, that amp may well be an even better choice than the SRM-007tII - we shall see. Other dedicated amps would probably also yield the same great results. At any rate, there is a huge difference here, and, imo, it merits careful consideration for those looking for the best sound from their Staxen. If I had an old amp laying around and an SRD-7 Pro, sure, I'd use it to get over the hump until I could obtain a good dedicated amp, but I'd know that I'm just not hearing that 20 per cent of extra detail and additional musicality my earspeakers are capable of providing. 

 My views, my ears, and, as always, your mileage may vary!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Equipment Used:

 Apple Lossless rips from iTunes through Airport Express to Electrocompaniet ECD-1. Silver balanced cables to SRM-007tII; unbalanced feed (decent cables) to Audio Research SP-9 preamp using line level input and then to either Perreau PMF-3150 or Dynaco ST-70 to SRD-7 PRO._

 

I'm honestly (a little) suprised at the results. Your 300W amp had less dynamics with the SRD-7 Pro than your 007TII rated at 340V RMS ?(showing again that the numbers dont always correspond with the predicted outcome) Hmmmm... The lack of air I can understand as that has been my experience with large class AB amps in general (and hooked up to the SRD-7 Pro).Interesting none the less and nice write up !! Do you have any access to some pure class A amps ? And what do you have for 6922s in the Preamp. (sorry for all the questions)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That might explain what I'm hearing when I'm listening through the Pros.
 You are right, the back is covered with wooly stuff.
 When I hold my SR 303s in front of a light bulb they are semitransparent, and the Pros are not._

 

I think it would be a cool experiment to put 404 drivers in a Lambda Pro housing and compare. The choice of backwave management is a very crucial design issue and can make or break the headphone. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the hobby collecting headphones or listening to headphones? I have no issue with either, lots of people out there collect old comic books or movie paraphernalia or whathaveyou and then proceed to never even look at the stuff for fear of lowering its value. People get enjoyment out of doing that, so it's certainly a true hobby. It's only an issue when one starts confusing the two and lose track of the difference between something's collector's value and its musical value._

 

It's the same argument people use against equipment mods saying it will completely devalue a component. I hope these people are happy with their very expensive but mediocre sounding equipment safe in the knowledge how much it's worth if they sell it.


----------



## jigster

Got a query that I hope someone can answer. i've got a stax amp the back has the usual switch for 110V,117V...240V but it also states 100V 45W 50/60Hz. so my question is : can I switch it from 110V (original setting) to 240V? The back looks something like the one in the picture below. Its different from the SRM1/MKII as the SRM1 has the markings AC 100V-117V 220V-240V. Will it blow if I plug it in? Its 240V here.






 I need some assurance before I plug it in.
 Thanks!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X Mk3 more common than the Lambdas? Perhaps I've not been looking in the right places but I've seen far more Lambdas come up for sale. Otherwise it looks about right to me._

 

My memory might play me a fuss, but this is my conclusion.
 Both the Lambda (Pro) and SR-X/MK3 show up on eBay (Germany, US, UK, Netherlands) at a fairly regular basis. About once a week or more...
 To me they have about equal availability. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got an SRM-3 with Lambda Nova Classic off ebay from a fellow headfier sometime last year, and then immediately stopped reading this forum, because I knew I'd just be buying more and more expensive and unnecessary jun...

 Alternatively, is it safe, both for the cans and for myself, to use them without the foam for now?

 Also, should I decide to replace the pads after all, which currently available ones would properly fit the Novas?_

 

Wise choice!
 Some of us was not smart enough to leave the forum after buying our first Stax system, and keep on buying more and more systems. *cough*

 Regarding the foam. Both you and the headphones should be perfectly safe without it. But if you decide to fix it your best choice would be to replace the pads, which then comes with new foam.
 The Lambda Nova Classic are brown, right? If so, I think any Lambda Signature or SR-404 pads should fit perfectly. Both in colour and size. Maybe these: eBay -> STAX Replacement Earpads for SIGNATURE EARSPEAKERS


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm honestly (a little) suprised at the results. Your 300W amp had less dynamics with the SRD-7 Pro than your 007TII rated at 340V RMS ?(showing again that the numbers dont always correspond with the predicted outcome) Hmmmm... The lack of air I can understand as that has been my experience with large class AB amps in general (and hooked up to the SRD-7 Pro).Interesting none the less and nice write up !! Do you have any access to some pure class A amps ? And what do you have for 6922s in the Preamp. (sorry for all the questions)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Let me clarify what I meant by compressed dynamic range. (The Perreaux has plenty of juice; the volume control on the SP-9 is barely advanced for comfortable listening levels!) It's not any lack of oomph, it's the range of loudest to quietest sounds reproduced that suffers from compression and loss of detail. In fact, I had to be careful NOT to drive the 'phones too hard, for fear of arcing them. The turns ratio of the transformer is very high in the SRD, this gives a very high voltage swing - that is not the problem. The only thing I can see (reaching way back here, so pardon if my theory is rusty) that could be compressing the dynamics of the music and obscuring detail is circuit Q. Large ratios mean higher Q, and that narrows usable bandwidth in circuit design. Whatever the cause, the result is unmistakable. 
 I have an old Yamaha integrated amplifier that is switchable for pure Class A operation (at 30 watts, I believe). I could press it into service and test it out, but my experience with amplfiers biased beyond cutoff is they sound very much like well-executed AB1 and AB2 designs.
 The Perreaux is no slouch, costing over 1500 bucks in the late eighties, and selling on E-bay (when you can find them) for 600-800 now. The Dynaco's legend is well-established, and this particular model has the original EL-34s, manufactured for Dynaco by Mullard, if I'm not mistaken. It sounds great on my modded MG-IIIa's, bi-amped with the Perreaux on the bass panels, and was my "main rig" for a couple of years. It's been tweaked and updated minimally.
 I'd have to check the 6922's in the AR, but they're whatever came with it. The preamp is probably not adding much of its own to the sound (just attenuating the line level from ECD-1), and everything in there is pretty much top drawer.
 Anyway, I'm going to listen to a lot of music over the next week of so, then probably pass on the SRD-7 pro to a head-fier who needs it. It's really not a bad solution when you've already got a decent amp - just no substitute for a good dedicated amp.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the foam. Both you and the headphones should be perfectly safe without it. But if you decide to fix it your best choice would be to replace the pads, which then comes with new foam.
 The Lambda Nova Classic are brown, right? If so, I think any Lambda Signature or SR-404 pads should fit perfectly. Both in colour and size. Maybe these: eBay -> STAX Replacement Earpads for SIGNATURE EARSPEAKERS_

 

Thanks -- I had already found those, as well as the ones for the Lambdas, which cost $10 less (and color isn't a big issue to me, though fit obviously is). What bugs me a bit is the fact that there are no pictures, and the seller only has a 7 positive feedback rating, dating back from quite some time ago. I've been burned a few times on eBay already (though nothing too serious, fortunately), and I'd prefer to remain free of scorch marks as much as possible... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 [edit] BTW, the Nova Classics are a sort of brownish green, or greenish brown, with charcoal pads. At least, mine are.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me clarify what I meant by compressed dynamic range. (The Perreaux has plenty of juice; the volume control on the SP-9 is barely advanced for comfortable listening levels!) It's not any lack of oomph, it's the range of loudest to quietest sounds reproduced that suffers from compression and loss of detail. In fact, I had to be careful NOT to drive the 'phones too hard, for fear of arcing them. The turns ratio of the transformer is very high in the SRD, this gives a very high voltage swing - that is not the problem. The only thing I can see (reaching way back here, so pardon if my theory is rusty) that could be compressing the dynamics of the music and obscuring detail is circuit Q. Large ratios mean higher Q, and that narrows usable bandwidth in circuit design. Whatever the cause, the result is unmistakable. 
 I have an old Yamaha integrated amplifier that is switchable for pure Class A operation (at 30 watts, I believe). I could press it into service and test it out, but my experience with amplfiers biased beyond cutoff is they sound very much like well-executed AB1 and AB2 designs.
 The Perreaux is no slouch, costing over 1500 bucks in the late eighties, and selling on E-bay (when you can find them) for 600-800 now. The Dynaco's legend is well-established, and this particular model has the original EL-34s, manufactured for Dynaco by Mullard, if I'm not mistaken. It sounds great on my modded MG-IIIa's, bi-amped with the Perreaux on the bass panels, and was my "main rig" for a couple of years. It's been tweaked and updated minimally.
 I'd have to check the 6922's in the AR, but they're whatever came with it. The preamp is probably not adding much of its own to the sound (just attenuating the line level from ECD-1), and everything in there is pretty much top drawer.
 Anyway, I'm going to listen to a lot of music over the next week of so, then probably pass on the SRD-7 pro to a head-fier who needs it. It's really not a bad solution when you've already got a decent amp - just no substitute for a good dedicated amp._

 

Dynamic range-and Dynamics-Two different things IMO, I gotcha now.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try some nice Amperex 6922 Holland steel pins or Bugle Boys, you might be suprised just how much change you hear through the OIIs. (it makes a HUGE difference in my Melos pre/linestage.

 I still think pure Class A amplification is the way to go, and have had the best results with it in conjunction with hybrid preamplification (you have that covered).

 Keep experimenting.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What bugs me a bit is the fact that there are no pictures, and the seller only has a 7 positive feedback rating, dating back from quite some time ago. I've been burned a few times on eBay already (though nothing too serious, fortunately), and I'd prefer to remain free of scorch marks as much as possible... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Then you might want to check out AudioCubes II instead:
http://www.audiocubes2.com/brand/Sta...rspeakers.html

 Still no picture. But it should be a hassle free deal...


 I am almost certain that all the Lambda phones (Lambda (Pro, Nova), 202, 303 and 404) use identical sized earpads. But it would be great if someone could verify this.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then you might want to check out AudioCubes II instead:
http://www.audiocubes2.com/brand/Sta...rspeakers.html

 Still no picture. But it should be a hassle free deal...

 I am almost certain that all the Lambda phones (Lambda (Pro, Nova), 202, 303 and 404) use identical sized earpads. But it would be great if someone could verify this._

 

I had already sent them an email, since it was the first place I looked, but they didn't have them on their site. I got a quick and friendly reply from them, telling me they didn't know which ones would be compatible, and suggesting I'd ask other users...

 Oh well, I guess I'll just try them without what's left of the foam for now. You'd better be right about the safety of that, though, because I don't feel like getting my ears or brain fried! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [edit] BTW, can anyone explain the difference between AudioCubes and AudioCubesII to me???


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me clarify what I meant by compressed dynamic range. (The Perreaux has plenty of juice; the volume control on the SP-9 is barely advanced for comfortable listening levels!) It's not any lack of oomph, it's the range of loudest to quietest sounds reproduced that suffers from compression and loss of detail. In fact, I had to be careful NOT to drive the 'phones too hard, for fear of arcing them. The turns ratio of the transformer is very high in the SRD, this gives a very high voltage swing - that is not the problem. The only thing I can see (reaching way back here, so pardon if my theory is rusty) that could be compressing the dynamics of the music and obscuring detail is circuit Q. Large ratios mean higher Q, and that narrows usable bandwidth in circuit design. Whatever the cause, the result is unmistakable. _

 

The turns ratio on the SRD isn’t that high (24:1). Transformers for electrostatic speakers have turns ratios up to 150:1. The SRD transformers aren’t very big. I’m sure that when you send it a high bandwidth signal nearing it’s limits it will produce harmonic and IM distortion that will cloud detail and constrict dynamics. Also some high current and voltage amps need a load to sound their best. The Perreaux driving the SRD is like almost no load at all. Try putting a 8 ohm high wattage resistor across the speaker terminals when driving the SRD. I have had the same listening results as you.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am almost certain that all the Lambda phones (Lambda (Pro, Nova), 202, 303 and 404) use identical sized earpads. But it would be great if someone could verify this._

 

My SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro & SR-202 have the same black pads. The SR-404 is the same size but brown.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh well, I guess I'll just try them without what's left of the foam for now. You'd better be right about the safety of that, though, because I don't feel like getting my ears or brain fried! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

For what its worth I have been using my Lambda Pro pair, with no foam left, for six months so far and not experienced any problems. They might sound slightly different without the foam, but other than that I can't see any way it would harm the Lambda Nova or yourself.


----------



## derekbmn

No foam in my pair of Lambda Pros either. They arrived this way and its been over a year. - No problems whatsoever .


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The turns ratio on the SRD isn’t that high (24:1). Transformers for electrostatic speakers have turns ratios up to 150:1. The SRD transformers aren’t very big. I’m sure that when you send it a high bandwidth signal nearing it’s limits it will produce harmonic and IM distortion that will cloud detail and constrict dynamics. Also some high current and voltage amps need a load to sound their best. The Perreaux driving the SRD is like almost no load at all. Try putting a 8 ohm high wattage resistor across the speaker terminals when driving the SRD. I have had the same listening results as you._

 

That's something I thought about doing, actually. I've got some 8 ohm non-inductive resistors around here, and that would certainly allow the Perreaux to operate in its normal range. That doesn't really explain the same lack of dynamics from the 70 watt tube amp, though.

 I've got some more testing to do, and will report back.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a query that I hope someone can answer. i've got a stax amp the back has the usual switch for 110V,117V...240V but it also states 100V 45W 50/60Hz. so my question is : can I switch it from 110V (original setting) to 240V? The back looks something like the one in the picture below. Its different from the SRM1/MKII as the SRM1 has the markings AC 100V-117V 220V-240V. Will it blow if I plug it in? Its 240V here.






 I need some assurance before I plug it in.
 Thanks!_

 

Anyone?


----------



## milkpowder

Is the fuse rated at 240V? I'm not sure how you check that (maybe open it up?), but if it isn't, then it would be literally suicide to plug it into a 240V mains.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the fuse rated at 240V? I'm not sure how you check that (maybe open it up?), but if it isn't, then it would be literally suicide to plug it into a 240V mains._

 

i have no idea how to. It looks exactly like my SRM1/MKII (which I'm using now) but only the print states 100V while my SRM1 states 100V-117V; 220V-240V. So I gotta use a step-down transformer even though I can flip the switch?


----------



## Carl

Finding someone in New Zealand willing to fix/mod my SRA-7S is proving astoundingly difficult. Infernal country.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro & SR-202 have the same black pads. The SR-404 is the same size but brown._

 

Thanks for verifying!
 As I thought, all the Lambda series headphones use identical sized earpads. They just vary on colour.


----------



## _LN_

Krmathis and Audiod: thanks for your help!

 Jigster: Couldn't you set the amp for 240V use, but still have it connected through the step-down transformer the first time you switch it on? If it operates normally then, it's probably not safe for use without the transformer.
 If it doesn't operate normally, or not at all, it probably is safe...

 Or am I overlooking something here -- like high currents at too low an operating voltage?

 BTW, I'm still curious about AudioCubes I and II. They appear to be operated by the same company, so what's the difference?


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, I'm still curious about AudioCubes I and II. They appear to be operated by the same company, so what's the difference?_

 

Audiocubes II focuses on more expensive audio products while Audiocubes I sells a variety of electronics. There is no exact reason for this, but I guess it's a aesthetic thing. One possible reason is that they believe those who are browsing high quality Japanese audio equipment wouldn't want the page/navigation littered with other types of products.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Krmathis and Audiod: thanks for your help!_

 

My pleasure!
 Just happy to be able to help other Stax users out there...

  Quote:


 BTW, I'm still curious about AudioCubes I and II. They appear to be operated by the same company, so what's the difference? 
 

I really don't know the difference between them.
 Some product are only available on one of the AudioCubes II website, like replacement earpads, headbands, etc.


----------



## _LN_

Thanks for the replies. The weird thing is, though, they have different prices for the SR-202 pads, for instance, where AudioCubes II is actually cheaper than I. (well, less expensive, anyway...)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finding someone in New Zealand willing to fix/mod my SRA-7S is proving astoundingly difficult. Infernal country._

 

It's the same here. There is one guy i know that does modify and build diy amps but he doesn't believe that there are better parts only better circuits. He thinks I'm an idiot for paying so much for rca sockets and wire.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the same here. There is one guy i know that does modify and build diy amps but he doesn't believe that there are better parts only better circuits. He thinks I'm an idiot for paying so much for rca sockets and wire. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You are. Anything besides BJTs, zeners, metal oxide resistors and electrolytic capacitors is just being wasteful. Repent now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are. Anything besides BJTs, zeners, metal oxide resistors and electrolytic capacitors is just being wasteful. Repent now._

 

I am burning all of my exotic stuff as I type this. I feel like a great burden has been lifted off my soul...


----------



## lan

I'm trying out a bunch of Stax transformers now. Is there a minimum power requirement for the amp to use these things? Which output taps is better to use on the amp, 4, 8, or 16 ohms?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Krmathis and Audiod: thanks for your help!

 Jigster: Couldn't you set the amp for 240V use, but still have it connected through the step-down transformer the first time you switch it on? If it operates normally then, it's probably not safe for use without the transformer.
 If it doesn't operate normally, or not at all, it probably is safe...

 Or am I overlooking something here -- like high currents at too low an operating voltage?

 BTW, I'm still curious about AudioCubes I and II. They appear to be operated by the same company, so what's the difference?_

 


 Can I do that? Will the unit get damaged if I use the transformer and set the voltage to 240V like you said? What would happen if it actually can work under 240V, how do I tell? Sorry, really ignorant about electronics, just wanna get it to work and listen to some music.

 Thanks for the help.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I do that? Will the unit get damaged if I use the transformer and set the voltage to 240V like you said? What would happen if it actually can work under 240V, how do I tell?_

 

If you use the step-down transformer _and_ switch the amp to 240V, if the switch works like it should, the amp would only get about half its rated voltage, and would probably not work very well, if at all. If the switch doesn't work as expected, the amp would either work just like before, since it still expects to get only 110V. Or, if the switch simply disconnects the 110V circuitry, the amp wouldn't work at all.

 In all of the above cases, except where the amp is working like before, it would probably be OK to try it without the step-down transformer. If it doesn't get enough voltage, it might draw more current than it should, which could theoretically do some damage. But if it gets twice as much voltage as expected, it's almost sure to fry something.

 But if you want to be completely sure, it's probably best to take it to someone who understands electronics, like in a repair shop, and have them take a look at it.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got some more testing to do, and will report back. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Any updates ??


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the same here. There is one guy i know that does modify and build diy amps but he doesn't believe that there are better parts only better circuits. He thinks I'm an idiot for paying so much for rca sockets and wire. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As I'm sure you agree, spritzer, there are better parts for a given circuit, but no absolutely better parts... just like an audio system, the components of a circuit have to be chosen and tuned to work together. Just spending more on Jensens, Black Gates, Auricaps, Riken Ohms and all that tasty stuff doesn't guarantee better sound. I think I might agree with your tech that the circuit is more important... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patrick


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As I'm sure you agree, spritzer, there are better parts for a given circuit, but no absolutely better parts... just like an audio system, the components of a circuit have to be chosen and tuned to work together. Just spending more on Jensens, Black Gates, Auricaps, Riken Ohms and all that tasty stuff doesn't guarantee better sound. I think I might agree with your tech that the circuit is more important... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patrick_

 

Better parts help but they can't repair a critical flaw in a circuit. Bad parts in a good circuit are worse because it will be more revealing.


----------



## derekbmn

A question - Does anyone here that has listened and/or owned the HE-90, feel that at least some of its popularity maybe do to the fact that they are so much easier to drive than the O2s ? Keep in mind I have zero experience with the Orpheus (never heard them). But I can attest to the fact that the O2s are pretty hard to drive. Anyone ??


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question - Does anyone here that has listened and/or owned the HE-90, feel that at least some of its popularity maybe do to the fact that they are so much easier to drive than the O2s ? Keep in mind I have zero experience with the Orpheus (never heard them). But I can attest to the fact that the O2s are pretty hard to drive. Anyone ??_

 

The Senns sound very different from the O2s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question - Does anyone here that has listened and/or owned the HE-90, feel that at least some of its popularity maybe do to the fact that they are so much easier to drive than the O2s ? Keep in mind I have zero experience with the Orpheus (never heard them). But I can attest to the fact that the O2s are pretty hard to drive. Anyone ??_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Senns sound very different from the O2s._

 

It's a combination of three factors. The SR-007 are very hard to drive, sound completely different and system matching is crucial. He90 is much more forgiving of a less then ideal system setup. 

 The He90 could be compared to a Lambda Signature one some fronts but they are still completely different.


----------



## Carl

The Sennheisers might be easy to drive like lambdas, but I don't find them particularly similar timbrally.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sennheisers might be easy to drive like lambdas, but I don't find them particularly similar timbrally._

 

They are both extended with similar bass but it stops there. The Signature is the closest example but they are not the same.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm trying out a bunch of Stax transformers now. Is there a minimum power requirement for the amp to use these things? Which output taps is better to use on the amp, 4, 8, or 16 ohms?_

 

1. There is no real minimum per se, but something capable of 10-20W output would be better.

 2. No idea, but I remember Wualta mentioning in the old stax thread that any amp used with the transformer should be capable of handling impedances as low as 4 ohms... or something like that.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better parts help but they can't repair a critical flaw in a circuit. Bad parts in a good circuit are worse because it will be more revealing._

 

Hmm, I'd say the *wrong* parts in a good circuit are worse... Synergy is more important than expenditure.

 Patrick


----------



## thrice

So I've spent enough time with the Lambda Woody Pro to offer some more detailed impressions:

 All comments are between the Lambda Pro Woody and a stock pair.

 When I first heard the Lambda Pro I was in heaven. I spent some time with the 202, 303 and 404 at meets and through loans from friends, but none of those headphones caught my attention like the Lambda Pro. It reaches out and grabs you. I finally got my hands on a NOS pair last Fall and I have never looked back. I have a hard time going back to dynamic cans now. If I do go back it will be for a high-end setup (K1000/F1, R10/Singlepower...etc.) and nothng less 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So yeah I like the Lambda Pro and the Lambda Signature. A lot.

 So after weeks of neglecting Headphile's Headphone Deals page I thought, "I wonder if Larry has anything special?" BAM! There they were, a pair of Lambda Pros with open back woodies. I jumped at the chance. Normally I hem and haw about these things and end up acting too late (well we all do, but I've missed some great stuff repeatedly, so I wasn't going to miss this). Not this time. I quickly checked my Paypal account and sent an e-mail off to Larry hoping I wasn't too late.

 Four days later I rushed home from work to get the package and fire up my amp. Two hours later I was deeply involved with A/B testing. My wife knows this mode...he's evaluating cans....let him play. So enough build-up, what's the skinny?

 Equipment: Wadia 23 (balanced out)>Stax SRM-T1S>Lambda Pro/Lambda Woody

 Overall the woodies retain the general charater of the stock Lambda Pro, but there are a few key differenes:

 Impact: Overall the woodies present a faster, tighter and more textured articulation. Drum hits, cymbals, acostic bass all have more snap and texture to the initial attack. This led to the resulting tones having greater texture and depth. There's a new layer of detail with the woodies.

 Dynamics: Dynamic differences are more prevalent with the woodies as well. Miles Davis's ghosted notes aren't completely lost with the woodies. If only I had these cans when I was playing and transcribing. Man, I could have knocked out solo transcriptions much faster. Sometimes you have to strain to hear the subtle nuances with the stock pair; the woodies lay them out for you. It is not overdone either, the woodies just offer a finer focus. Group and/or solo dynamics are better as well. Background and forefront dyanmics retain their space, but nothing covers anything else. The differences are less striking on this level between the two pairs.

 Detail and texture: I've covered these two items in the other two categories so I will be brief. The woodies have more detail and texture to the sound than the stock pair. You can hear the twang and texture of a string bass. The hammer quality of the piano. Drums are still a bit lacking in this department, but the woodies are an improvement over the stock pair.


 So there they are, my impressions. Feel free to aks more pointed questions though. I like the new woodies. A lot. So much that there will be a big FS thread soon. I need to raise some cash for a pair of Omega II. Between the OII and the woodies...well that'll take care of me for awhile.

 Cheers,
 thrice


----------



## milkpowder

Looks like you made the right decision then
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Are there any drawbacks that you are aware of?


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like you made the right decision then
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are there any drawbacks that you are aware of?_

 

NONE, they are perfect and they best all e-stats everywhere. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The headstage is brought in a bit on the woodies. There is a greater sense of air on the stock pair. Yeah that would be the biggest issue. But the woody pair has better separation...it's tough to say right now. They're still a bit new. Despite the "new toy syndrome" though I do think they are an improvement.


----------



## milkpowder

Were the Lambda Pros NOS when Larry woodied them? Will there be any "burn-in"?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, I'd say the *wrong* parts in a good circuit are worse... Synergy is more important than expenditure.

 Patrick_

 

"Good" is more important that expendature. .50c russian surplus teflon caps sound better than Black Gates.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Were the Lambda Pros NOS when Larry woodied them? Will there be any "burn-in"?_

 

No they weren't NOS so I didn't feel burn-in was necessary.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've spent enough time with the Lambda Woody Pro to offer some more detailed impressions:_

 

I sure like what I read. Great post!


----------



## Xanadu777

Thanks for the impressions of the woodies! As I was saying in email, I thought they sounded a little more balanced overall than stock, with a woody flavor (insert your own meaning to whatever that is)... I could imagine the stock pair seeming a little dull in comparision. Anyway, thanks again and I'll consider doing another some day possibly after reading your impressions. 

 Speaking of which, I have a pair of NOS 404 drivers that I'm still kicking around combining with dynamic drivers for either a hybrid or a surround possibility. Somehow I think I'll be keeping those though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Figuring out how to pull it off are still just electric impulses in the old noggin'...


----------



## audiod

My Omega II’s were delivered today! I’ve been listening to them on my SRM-1mkII. Here are some words to describe the sound I'm getting; integrated, smooth, detailed, sweet, subtle, powerful, rich and warm. I am so pleased! They make my Lambda Pro’s sound like they have a woofer, midrange and tweeter. Well... not exactly.

 I will have about $1500 to spend for an amp. What are your recommendations? I like tube equipment sound. I love my Audible Illusions Modulus 3a preamp. I am not looking for SET sound.

 AudioD


----------



## Dawoofer

I'm glad to report that the ESP 9's crackled for the first minute or two but ended up sounding just great. Does the amp do anything for the sound with it in the off position? When it's on it just seems to amplify the signal a tad, seems about like turning up the volume. What is the real purpose of this energizer? I also have some 7's, the don't have nearly have the bass that the 9's do. They might be a little brighter than the 9's, but thats just an initial impression. The 7's must be biased different because plugged into the 9's energizer it makes absolutely zero difference when the amp is switched on. I am impressed with the sound of the 9's and look forward to auditioning them with my SET amp and vinyl. I only listened to the 7's for about 5 minutes and I'm not sure if that was an efficient amount of time to give them a real critique.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omega II’s were delivered today! I’ve been listening to them on my SRM-1mkII. Here are some words to describe the sound I'm getting; integrated, smooth, detailed, sweet, subtle, powerful, rich and warm. I am so pleased! They make my Lambda Pro’s sound like they have a woofer, midrange and tweeter. Well... not exactly.

 I will have about $1500 to spend for an amp. What are your recommendations? I like tube equipment sound. I love my Audible Illusions Modulus 3a preamp. I am not looking for SET sound.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 At that price, and if you want tubes, the best choice is probably the SRM-007tII. I love mine; it blows away (not by a small bit, either) fairly decent speaker amps through the SRD-7 Pro. Also, believe Woo makes a tube amp in this price range.


----------



## thrice

I had a chance to listen to Hirsch's O II through his 007t amp using a Meridian G08....now that's some system synergy...and through the single-ended outputs no less.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xanadu777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of which, I have a pair of NOS 404 drivers that I'm still kicking around combining with dynamic drivers for either a hybrid or a surround possibility. Somehow I think I'll be keeping those though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Figuring out how to pull it off are still just electric impulses in the old noggin'..._

 

A "super K340" style device would be awesome. Considering the AKG's electrets are fairly ho-hum, I imagine some proper electrostatic panels would make for a big improvement in sound.


----------



## Carl

You don't think this guy might be overcharging, do you?

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....art&1180669747


----------



## Duggeh

:/


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....art&1180669747_

 







 [size=xx-small]I will feel even sadder if it sells.[/size]


----------



## wualta

By the way, Venio, congrats on the SR-X Mk3! They look good.


----------



## ej82m

Hey guys, I just received my HE60-> STAX cable. I'm really liking what i'm hearing from the 007t and SRM-1/MK-2! I really need to call-in sick tomorrow.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've spent enough time with the Lambda Woody Pro to offer some more detailed impressions:

 All comments are between the Lambda Pro Woody and a stock pair.

 When I first heard the Lambda Pro I was in heaven. I spent some time with the 202, 303 and 404 at meets and through loans from friends, but none of those headphones caught my attention like the Lambda Pro. It reaches out and grabs you. I finally got my hands on a NOS pair last Fall and I have never looked back. I have a hard time going back to dynamic cans now. If I do go back it will be for a high-end setup (K1000/F1, R10/Singlepower...etc.) and nothng less 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 So yeah I like the Lambda Pro and the Lambda Signature. A lot.

 So after weeks of neglecting Headphile's Headphone Deals page I thought, "I wonder if Larry has anything special?" BAM! There they were, a pair of Lambda Pros with open back woodies. I jumped at the chance. Normally I hem and haw about these things and end up acting too late (well we all do, but I've missed some great stuff repeatedly, so I wasn't going to miss this). Not this time. I quickly checked my Paypal account and sent an e-mail off to Larry hoping I wasn't too late.

 Four days later I rushed home from work to get the package and fire up my amp. Two hours later I was deeply involved with A/B testing. My wife knows this mode...he's evaluating cans....let him play. So enough build-up, what's the skinny?

 Equipment: Wadia 23 (balanced out)>Stax SRM-T1S>Lambda Pro/Lambda Woody

 Overall the woodies retain the general charater of the stock Lambda Pro, but there are a few key differenes:

 Impact: Overall the woodies present a faster, tighter and more textured articulation. Drum hits, cymbals, acostic bass all have more snap and texture to the initial attack. This led to the resulting tones having greater texture and depth. There's a new layer of detail with the woodies.

 Dynamics: Dynamic differences are more prevalent with the woodies as well. Miles Davis's ghosted notes aren't completely lost with the woodies. If only I had these cans when I was playing and transcribing. Man, I could have knocked out solo transcriptions much faster. Sometimes you have to strain to hear the subtle nuances with the stock pair; the woodies lay them out for you. It is not overdone either, the woodies just offer a finer focus. Group and/or solo dynamics are better as well. Background and forefront dyanmics retain their space, but nothing covers anything else. The differences are less striking on this level between the two pairs.

 Detail and texture: I've covered these two items in the other two categories so I will be brief. The woodies have more detail and texture to the sound than the stock pair. You can hear the twang and texture of a string bass. The hammer quality of the piano. Drums are still a bit lacking in this department, but the woodies are an improvement over the stock pair.


 So there they are, my impressions. Feel free to aks more pointed questions though. I like the new woodies. A lot. So much that there will be a big FS thread soon. I need to raise some cash for a pair of Omega II. Between the OII and the woodies...well that'll take care of me for awhile.

 Cheers,
 thrice_

 

If they are that great why even think of moving on to anything as costly as an O2?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they are that great why even think of moving on to anything as costly as an O2?_

 

He's tasted the sweet, sweet honey.


 The lambda pro and O2 aren't exactly the most similar of headphones, though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad to report that the ESP 9's crackled for the first minute or two but ended up sounding just great. Does the amp do anything for the sound with it in the off position? When it's on it just seems to amplify the signal a tad, seems about like turning up the volume. What is the real purpose of this energizer? I also have some 7's, the don't have nearly have the bass that the 9's do. They might be a little brighter than the 9's, but thats just an initial impression. The 7's must be biased different because plugged into the 9's energizer it makes absolutely zero difference when the amp is switched on. I am impressed with the sound of the 9's and look forward to auditioning them with my SET amp and vinyl. I only listened to the 7's for about 5 minutes and I'm not sure if that was an efficient amount of time to give them a real critique._

 

The E9 energizer is not an amp, it's a transformer which modifies the signal from a regular amp. When it is turned on, it provides a set bias signal to the diaphragam of the transducers in the earcups. When it is off, the E9 is self-energizing, i.e. it creates a bias signal from the audio signal. Self-biasing is not always consistent, since it can vary with the voltage of the audio signal from the amp, e.g. my ESP 6's are quite variable with some kinds of music.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they are that great why even think of moving on to anything as costly as an O2?_

 

They are not without their faults (the Lambda Woodies). Still sort of getting used to them, but a few people PMed me to post impressions so I did.

 Why wouldn't I want to try the OII? Besides a friend has them and I've had a chance to hear his....they piqued my interest. The OII is not a headphone that gives up it's secrets quickly. I would enjoy getting to know them...if I ever get my KGSS sone...gah, parts, parts, parts.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would enjoy getting to know them...if I ever get my KGSS sone...gah, parts, parts, parts._

 

Haha, I'm interested in building a KGSS myself. Are you building it on a breadboard or did you get some custom PCBs made? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, I'm typing out a response to your PM right now. I'm so sorry for the late reply. Though, things don't look too bright. *Cries* *Needs to think so me more*


----------



## Dawoofer

Thanks Edstealow. I was told to turn them on and leave them on for a day and I would get better sound out of them. Don't know if that is true or not, and input in this matter? I keep reading all of these post that you all write. Talking about the cabling and amps that I have never heard of. I'm trying to read and learn. I'm a rookie to the cans scene. I remember the big brown Koss' from the 70's, but have been a buyer of Radio Shack cans for the last 20 years ignorant to the better cans out there. This is a whole new experience and many would probably say I wasted my money. I've heard electricstatic speakers lately and like the sound very much and wanted to get a taste of it for myself. Please excuse my lack of knowledge in this subject but we all had to start somewhere. Thanks for letting me rant.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omega II’s were delivered today! I’ve been listening to them on my SRM-1mkII. Here are some words to describe the sound I'm getting; integrated, smooth, detailed, sweet, subtle, powerful, rich and warm. I am so pleased! They make my Lambda Pro’s sound like they have a woofer, midrange and tweeter. Well... not exactly.

 I will have about $1500 to spend for an amp. What are your recommendations? I like tube equipment sound. I love my Audible Illusions Modulus 3a preamp. I am not looking for SET sound.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations with the Omega II! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They sure sound great, even if the SRM-1/MKII don't bring out the best in them.

 When it comes to amplifiers you might want to look into the WooAudio GES. Looks like a great amplifier, which would only set you back $1,250.00.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't think this guy might be overcharging, do you?

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....art&1180669747_

 

Wow! Thats some serious money for pickup cartridge.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! Thats some serious money for pickup cartridge. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh hey, the status is sale pending! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mmmm...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh hey, the status is sale pending! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mmmm..._

 

Blow me down...


----------



## Chiliman

I know this isn't what this thread is about, but I figured that one of you guys had to have ordered your stax cans from pricejapan.

http://www.pricejapan.com/front/e_go...53&category=10

 When I converted this, it came to $430 (including shipping), that seems too good to be true. Am I going to have problems with power or anything, or is it all good to go?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this isn't what this thread is about, but I figured that one of you guys had to have ordered your stax cans from pricejapan.

http://www.pricejapan.com/front/e_go...53&category=10

 When I converted this, it came to $430 (including shipping), that seems too good to be true. Am I going to have problems with power or anything, or is it all good to go?_

 

2050s aren't expensive in Japan.

 eg http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r35499629


----------



## Chiliman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_2050s aren't expensive in Japan.

 eg http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r35499629_

 

Well, that explains it then.

 What about the power issue?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, that explains it then.

 What about the power issue?_

 

If you're going to get a system with a 252II amp, just buy a new wallwart. A _better_ one. Or a bench supply if you want to be fancy.


----------



## Chiliman

So I won't be able to use it out of the box unless I get a new wall wart, Carl, or I should just upgrade it for the sake of fidelity?

 Where could I find a better wall wart? should I diy one, and if so, where could I find plans for it?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I won't be able to use it out of the box unless I get a new wall wart, Carl, or I should just upgrade it for the sake of fidelity?_

 

Fidelity. Alternatively you can use a stepdown transformer.

  Quote:


 Where could I find a better wall wart? 
 

Radioshack or equivalent, or buy online.

  Quote:


 should I diy one, and if so, where could I find plans for it? 
 

If you have the skills to do that, then DIY an entire amp. It's not especially difficult to improve on Stax's cheaper amps.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Good" is more important that expendature. .50c russian surplus teflon caps sound better than Black Gates._

 

Well, they sound different at any rate. My point is that there are no absolutes... all parts sound different, and in any given circuit, you need to tune the parts choice to get the result you like.

 Patrick


----------



## derekbmn

NICE !!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NICE !!_

 

Sexy!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NICE !!_

 

Wow! /me want those...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm currently using a Russ Andrews Reference cord and it is ok but the Ridge Street Audio Poiema 3 Signature I have too is so much better but I'm using it on the CDP while I'm waiting on another cord. The 7 gauge silver with natural insulation sure sounds great, so effortless and flowing and they aren't that expensive._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dcfis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Those are like $650 right? damned only someone with a meridian would call that not expensive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

Well expensive is always relative... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The balanced IC's in the same line utterly destroy the Kimber KS-1130 and they are quite a bit cheaper then the Kimber. When you are buying straight from the builder you get so much more for the money, better wire, more attention to details, much better connectors and in Ridge Street's case the best customer service ever._

 

spritzer. I have to thank you for pointing me towards Ridge Street Audio.

 I were looking for a new interconnect, and while searching for builders/manufacturers I found your post. Sent him an email, and got an instant reply with all the information i wanted.
 Based on this I just placed an order for a balanced (XLR) 3 feet Poiema!!! Signature interconnect. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It will be a long three weeks wait...


----------



## strungoutt1

It seems ive come full circle and come to think about some elctrostatics. 

 But how do you think the 02 will do for me? Does it just fail when it comes to rock? I love the idea of electrostats and they look mighty comfy, but its a lot.


----------



## ericj

I know this is the Stax thread (tm), but i figured this would be the best place to announce this. 

 I have officially joined Team Vintage Stat!





 Well, maybe I've only joined Team Trashy Stat. or Team Filthy Stat.

 But the price was right - $28!

 The transformer box looks like it's been dropped. Plug is missing from the AC cord. Selector knob for speakers/phones is dented in a few places. 

 I'll be attempting to wash a few layers of grime off these tonight. Anybody know where the valve is to reinflate the earpads? Maybe i can get replacements at my local Firestone?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this is the Stax thread (tm), but i figured this would be the best place to announce this. 

 I have officially joined Team Vintage Stat!





 Well, maybe I've only joined Team Trashy Stat. or Team Filthy Stat.

 But the price was right - $28!

 The transformer box looks like it's been dropped. Plug is missing from the AC cord. Selector knob for speakers/phones is dented in a few places. 

 I'll be attempting to wash a few layers of grime off these tonight. Anybody know where the valve is to reinflate the earpads? Maybe i can get replacements at my local Firestone?_

 

An ESP9 I take it. No valve, but Koss will sell you new regular pads which will fit (after a struggle) for $5.00 shipped.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An ESP9 I take it. No valve, but Koss will sell you new regular pads which will fit (after a struggle) for $5.00 shipped._

 

Quite so. 

 Yes, the original pads come off after a struggle too. They still have some cushion to them, but they don't look real comfortable. 

 I suppose i should get the new pads from Koss, but I'm sure i can do better. 

 Anybody know what the dimensions are on DT-250 velours?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_Well, maybe I've only joined Team Trashy Stat. or Team Filthy Stat. 

 The transformer box looks like it's been dropped. Plug is missing from the AC cord. Selector knob for speakers/phones is dented in a few places. 

 I'll be attempting to wash a few layers of grime off these tonight. Anybody know where the valve is to reinflate the earpads? Maybe i can get replacements at my local Firestone?_

 

Wow! I love 'em! They look like a really beat-up comfortable old pair of shoes!

 The original earpads had either mineral oil or glycerine in them, and of course they've all leaked and gone flat over the years. You could try injecting the pads with a high-viscosity silicone oil, then patching the hole. Probably more trouble than it's worth. The idea behind the fluid-filled pads was isolation, and that's not necessary for sound quality. So inflate 'em with air hypodermically or just get the new Koss replacements.

 More pix, please!


----------



## smeggy

Woah, they look ready for a trip to the dishwasher. Should clean up a treat and be fit for head compression duty in no time. People who think Sennheisers clamp like a vise have never met vintage Koss! Glad to have you, and them aboard. And as the Woolta says.. MORE PIX PLZ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, did you get an energizer too?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The original earpads had either mineral oil or glycerine in them, and of course they've all leaked and gone flat over the years. You could try injecting the pads with a high-viscosity silicone oil, then patching the hole. Probably more trouble than it's worth. The idea behind the fluid-filled pads was isolation, and that's not necessary for sound quality. So inflate 'em with air hypodermically or just get the new Koss replacements._

 

One thought i had was cutting a small hole in the back, squeezing in a bunch of tire slime, and patching the hole. 

 Or i could run some aerogel through a blender with, something. 

 Or i could go some other direction entirely. 

 They do actually hold some air, and balloon when compressed, but I'm not excited to feel them against my head. 

 The foam damping is held together strictly by electrostatic charge at this point. I can tell this because i have the earcups off for washing. 

 Is it safe to remove the four nuts on the circuit board in these things so i can disassemble further? 

 Also considering replacing the old disc caps with snazzy new MLCCs (of the same ratings). 

  Quote:


 More pix, please! 
 

I could hardly contain myself searching for my camera so i could get ONE shot of them dirty before attacking them. 

 I'm taking pictures as i go, will probably post more tonight.


----------



## Carl




----------



## milkpowder

Cryo'ed?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Are those new Carl? I can't seem to remember that you had these!


----------



## smeggy

Hmmm, I thought the insides of the 4070 cups would look more... special. Intricate chambers etc.


----------



## Carl

The sound is very different now. I'm not sure if I like it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cryo'ed?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are those new Carl? I can't seem to remember that you had these!_

 

I've had the SC-1 for a while now.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, I thought the insides of the 4070 cups would look more... special. Intricate chambers etc._

 

Nope, sod all to 'em. Just some synthetic wool and three layers of heavy felt.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Nice one there Carl. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Another cool, twisted cryo can.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had the SC-1 for a while now._

 

Wait... I'm confused, so you swapped the housings around or did the SC-1 cable just appear in the picture?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm slightly mixed up because of this picture:


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait... I'm confused, so you swapped the housings around or did the SC-1 cable just appear in the picture?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm slightly mixed up because of this picture:



_

 

SC-1s are based off the 404, not the 4070! That is a hybrid "SC-4070" I have assembled.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sound is very different now. I'm not sure if I like it._

 

I look forward to further impressions.


----------



## ericj

Wow, nice cans, Carl!

 I've disassembled the right earcup of my ESP9 as far as i'm gonna. And this is as far as i go tonight - gotta get up in the morning and make more money to buy more cans. 

 Here's the rest of the pics of the teardown as it exists tonight. 

 As usual, click on my pics for the huge version. 













 Yes, this is Formica(tm) brand PCB material. 









 That's two layers of crepe paper for each port, goes under the felt, and, the yellow paper goes on the top port!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SC-1s are based off the 404, not the 4070! That is a hybrid "SC-4070" I have assembled._

 

Ah, I thought it was another Airbow headphone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Silly me.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I thought it was another Airbow headphone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Silly me._

 

Now we just need to get him as drunk as last time for the requisite review.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now we just need to get him as drunk as last time for the requisite review._

 

You're setting the bar quite high there.....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*SC-4070
*




_

 

Cryo treated 4070's. Nice!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're setting the bar quite high there....._

 

 But we would enjoy it so much.


----------



## Carl

These don't really sound as good as normal 4070s but the bass is abnormally thumpy for a 'stat.



 Hmmm, maybe not actually. Not so much worse as very very different. They've gone from mellow, low volume, moody cans to upfront, aggressive and uncompromising. I have no idea how this happened, but it's not a subtle change at all.



 Ever had a time when you ordered something online/mailorder/over the phone and when it finally arrives you find they've sent you an entirely product one from the one you asked for?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer. I have to thank you for pointing me towards Ridge Street Audio.

 I were looking for a new interconnect, and while searching for builders/manufacturers I found your post. Sent him an email, and got an instant reply with all the information i wanted.
 Based on this I just placed an order for a balanced (XLR) 3 feet Poiema!!! Signature interconnect. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It will be a long three weeks wait..._

 

Only three weeks? I waited for two months because I also ordered some PC's and they had to get the Schuko connectors for me. You will be in for a nice surprise because they are clear and don't impose on the music like most others do including some very expensive designs.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ever had a time when you ordered something online/mailorder/over the phone and when it finally arrives you find they've sent you an entirely product one from the one you asked for?_

 

Eeeeks. So, I'm assuming this happened to you? T_T


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eeeeks. So, I'm assuming this happened to you? T_T_

 

I was trying to explain the sound. I've only had a small amount of tequilla mixed into my tea so far today, so I'm not able to explain it using drunken rants or by crapflooding internet memes this time. I'm stuck using analogies and verious left-brain techniches.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Only three weeks? I waited for two months because I also ordered some PC's and they had to get the Schuko connectors for me._

 

Yes, he estimated that it will ship in a couple of weeks. Then another weeks time before it arrives at my place.
_"With current work load your project will ship in a week and a half to two weeks."_

 Will look into Poiema!!! power cords later on, when I have tried out the interconnect.
  Quote:


 You will be in for a nice surprise because they are clear and don't impose on the music like most others do including some very expensive designs. 
 

I am excited! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The Poiema!!! cables have received lots of positive reviews, so I can't wait to try them out.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was trying to explain the sound. I've only had a small amount of tequilla mixed into my tea so far today, so I'm not able to explain it using drunken rants or by crapflooding internet memes this time. I'm stuck using analogies and verious left-brain techniches._

 

Ah, I get it. Keep it coming. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Haha.

 On a side note, there seems to be more Stax equipment up for sale over the past few days on the various auction/classifieds sites than usual. Maybe it's just me.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I get it. Keep it coming. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Haha.

 On a side note, there seems to be more Stax equipment up for sale over the past few days on the various auction/classifieds sites than usual. Maybe it's just me._

 

A lot of lambda pros for head-fi, at least. Might as well make the most of the inflated prices while the FOTMness remains, I guess.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On a side note, there seems to be more Stax equipment up for sale over the past few days on the various auction/classifieds sites than usual. Maybe it's just me._

 

It's not just you.
 I have noticed that there have been put up lots of Stax phones on eBay recently. Several Lambda Pro, SR-5 Gold, SR-X/MK3, SRM-1/MK2's in a week.

 Great for those of us who want to score some vintage Stax stuff deals.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great for those of us who want to score some vintage Stax stuff deals. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not great for those of us who are complete failures at bargain hunting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *points at self*


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally posted by strungoutt1:
_It seems ive come full circle and come to think about some elctrostatics. I was planning on trying to buy a ATH L3000 until I realized that for 2300$ an 02 system was in my range. I listen to mostly rock, with a lot of harder rock like opeth. But I do also listen to quite a lot of tehcno/electronic music. Not to mention a bit of everything else besides country. I would say 60rock/40other. I dont listen to that much classical or jass, but while I had my K1000's I ended up listening to a lot of music like that because it was so beautiful. How do you think the 02 would suit me? I like comfort also. If I get an 02 I was thinking of the KGSS amp because it's only a little bit more than a stax amp.

 But how do you think the 02 will do for me? Does it just fail when it comes to rock? I love the idea of electrostats and they look mighty comfy, but its a lot. Thanks
_ 
 

Can anyone here that has experience with Stat's and this kind of music advise strungoutt1?

 I would say go to a meet (I know you are
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) try them with music that you bring and see if they are in the ballpark for you. If you get a decent price on an O2 + amp I don't think you would have any difficulty selling them on this site with minimal or no loss if you don't like them. Good Luck


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've disassembled the right earcup of my ESP9 as far as i'm gonna. And this is as far as i go tonight - gotta get up in the morning and make more money to buy more cans. _

 

The foam looks in good shape. My foam was a cream/yellow color and has deteriorated to a gooey dust. It was a real pain to clean up and replace. Good luck!

 AudioD


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadAmp seems to repeatedly make limited edition amps (e.g., the Aristaeus), which IMO is an undesirable practice, since there seems little point in putting much effort into reviewing amps that cease being available for purchase. What's the point of producing limited edition amps? Is it merely to make them status symbols, primarily due to their exclusivity?_

 

I really don't understand the concept about releasing limited edition amplifiers either. At least not when we talk about such low production numbers as for the HeadAmp amplifiers. 12 for the Aristaeus, and 10 for the Blue Hawaii Special Edition.

 Those amplifiers are/will be exclusive, but other than that I see no benefit.
 Most people don't want to spend $3-4,000 on an amplifier they don't know what will sound or look like. When we get to a point were we can read the first listening impressions and see pictures of the amplifier it might be to late, since all of of them are most probably sold...


 I would be VERY pleased if Justin could release an electrostatic tube amplifier in production numbers higher than 12.
 A balanced version of the Aristaeus, or a Blue Hawaii in Aristaeus-like chassis' would be perfect! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Until that (hopefully) happens, or Ray Samuels release an electrostatic amplifier, I will probably stick with my bellowed SRM-007t.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The foam looks in good shape. My foam was a cream/yellow color and has deteriorated to a gooey dust. It was a real pain to clean up and replace._

 

It only looks that good because i lifted it off very carefully, with a knife. Anywhere i put any kind of pressure on it, it doesn't spring back, and some of it comes away as dust. If i were to clench it in my fist, it would probably completely disintegrate. 

 Pretty much any old cans i buy have dead foam in them. It's just a constant in this universe. I've learned to remove it with extreme care. 

 So, I get to replace it. It appears to be a soft foam but with a very small cell size. I don't really have anything like that. Maybe 3/4" low density will work, since it'll be compressed.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IUntil that (hopefully) happens, or Ray Samuels release an electrostatic amplifier, I will probably stick with my bellowed SRM-007t._

 

What about the Singlepowers? (That is, if you can last the year long wait. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woah, they look ready for a trip to the dishwasher. Should clean up a treat and be fit for head compression duty in no time. People who think Sennheisers clamp like a vise have never met vintage Koss! Glad to have you, and them aboard. And as the Woolta says.. MORE PIX PLZ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My dishwasher is broken, so my preferred method is to take washable parts and hose them down with Formula 409 in the utility sink in the basement, let them sit like that for several minutes, and then rinse with hot water. 

 Usually that does the job. Sometimes i have to reapply and get in with a brush. Can leave the plastic looking a little dry, but armorall clears that up. 

 Just got off the phone with Koss ordering new pads. They say the Pro4AA pads are what they're sending me, $5 shipped. I'm not tremendously excited about the prospect, but for $5 it's worth a shot. I'm handy with scissors and thread, so i might take a stab at custom velours - maybe suedes. I think the head pad is getting replaced with velour-covered foam regardless -- that'll be easy. 

 With a nod to Team K340 (which i'm joining as soon as Deutche Post delivers), I'm considering leaving out the little grill pieces (they pull right out after you take off the vinyl) and installing grill cloth. 

 I'm glad to be aboard! One of these days I'll find an SR-X MKIII or something at the Right Price and officially join Team Vintage Stax. 

  Quote:


 Oh, did you get an energizer too? 
 

Yeah, it's in pretty rough shape. I'll take pictures of that tonight. I've already cleaned it up some, but it needs mechanical help. Looks like it's been dropped. Socket cracked, knob mangled, switch possibly bent. AC cord missing the plug. Ominous "220 AC" marking above the inlet for the cord (hopefully it's a dual-primary transformer?)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the Singlepowers? (That is, if you can last the year long wait. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Well, there are three reasons that I will not buy a Singlepower amplifier.
 1. Quality control issues. Several ES-1 owner have reported issues like crossed right/left attenuator and output connectors.
 2. Delivery times. 6-12 months from order to delivery is outrageous.
 3. I simply don't like the looks of the ES-1.

 When I am to pay $4,000 for an amplifier I expect a fully working quality product, that also looks great (to my eyes).
 Of course, there might be need for warranty repair on products from other vendors as well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad to be aboard! One of these days I'll find an SR-X MKIII or something at the Right Price and officially join Team Vintage Stax._

 

Hopefully you find a SR-X/MK3 pair in your price range. Keep an eye on eBay.de, and you might get lucky!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, there are three reasons that I will not buy a Singlepower amplifier.
 1. Quality control issues. Several ES-1 owner have reported issues like crossed right/left attenuator and output connectors.
 2. Delivery times. 6-12 months from order to delivery is outrageous.
 3. I simply don't like the looks of the ES-1.

 When I am to pay $4,000 for an amplifier I expect a fully working quality product, that also looks great (to my eyes).
 Of course, there might be need for warranty repair on products from other vendors as well._

 

Of course, that makes sense. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Delivery times do seem to be a common problem however. Singlepower's wait times indeed somewhat extreme. The wait for the Aristaeus was equally so from what I've heard. Of course in the case of Headamp, perfection has been historically 100%.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, there are three reasons that I will not buy a Singlepower amplifier.
 1. Quality control issues. Several ES-1 owner have reported issues like crossed right/left attenuator and output connectors.
 2. Delivery times. 6-12 months from order to delivery is outrageous.
 3. I simply don't like the looks of the ES-1.

 When I am to pay $4,000 for an amplifier I expect a fully working quality product, that also looks great (to my eyes).
 Of course, there might be need for warranty repair on products from other vendors as well._

 

Ditto. It's having some serious conflicts with our Nordic minimalism and I think the ES-1 might even look better if someone took an hatchet too it. Then there is the endless option list which is fine if you know what you want but can be very confusing and some of the options are almost idiotic


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Delivery times do seem to be a common problem however. Singlepower's wait times indeed somewhat extreme. The wait for the Aristaeus was equally so from what I've heard. Of course in the case of Headamp, perfection has been historically 100%._

 

True. It took more than one year from the first customers ordered the HeadAmp Aristaeus until they received it. But during this time Justin designed the amplifier from scratch, tested the construction and waited six months on the chassic' to be produced.
 While the Singlepower ES-1 have already been designed and well tested. It "only" needs to be put together from parts.

 I can easily wait 2-3 months (or more) on a amplifier. But then it would have to be top notch!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto. It's having some serious conflicts with our Nordic minimalism and I think the ES-1 might even look better if someone took an hatchet too it._

 

The ES-1 is way to large, and "ugly" for my taste.
 Cut down on the size, place it in black anodized aluminum chassic' (with front panels that extend past the edge of the box), and add some laser engraving. Then I might be happy!

 In short I would like it closer in size and looks to the HeadAmp Aristaeus.






[size=xx-small]Picture borrowed from 'akwok'[/size]

  Quote:


 Then there is the endless option list which is fine if you know what you want but can be very confusing and some of the options are almost idiotic 
 

I know it is not right to say that more options are a bad thing.
 But when it comes to all of the ES-1 configuration alternatives I am reluctant to agree with you.

 All of the possible configurations can be confusing, and its hard for the customer to pick the ideal combination of components. While most other manufacturers concentrate on one specific amplifier, and use their time to tweak this single configuration to the maximum.


 NB! I don't mean to bash any manufacturer. I am just putting out my thought about how the amplifier manufacturers deal with their products and customers.
 I am sure that all the mentioned amplifiers sounds great, which in the end are the most important aspect!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone here that has experience with Stat's and this kind of music advise strungoutt1?_

 

I had meant to reply to strungoutt1's post yesterday but when you're posting from work like me there are occasions you just can't spare the time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't think the O2s remotely fail when it comes to rock but it may not be a presentation to everyone's taste. They're certainly not bright like many headphones often recommended for rock. The level of aggressiveness they maintain is very much decided by the amplifier and other components in the chain. I've not found any combination that will push them into harshness but I've certainly not tried most of the popular amps. I have found the O2s are always refined no matter how hard they are pushed. At the same time with enough power behind them they can really open up to a degree I've not experienced with other stats which to me is what rock (and especially harder rock) really needs. 

 When it comes to Electronica I'd say there are some headphones more naturally inclined to this task but as a fan of the genre myself I couldn't live with any headphone that couldn't do a great job of it. The O2s to me are perfectly respectable in this regard too.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, there are three reasons that I will not buy a Singlepower amplifier.
 1. Quality control issues. Several ES-1 owner have reported issues like crossed right/left attenuator and output connectors.
 2. Delivery times. 6-12 months from order to delivery is outrageous.
 3. I simply don't like the looks of the ES-1.

 When I am to pay $4,000 for an amplifier I expect a fully working quality product, that also looks great (to my eyes).
 Of course, there might be need for warranty repair on products from other vendors as well._

 

Heh, I actually prefer the look of the ES-1 and the delivery time wouldn't put me off. I don't have any particular issues with the configurations either but I can understand it being overwhelming. Quality control issues are of course a concern but I don't think any company or individual is immune to making a mistake here or there, especially the smaller operations. Personally I wouldn't touch a Ray Samuels electrostatic amp largely because he seems to have no particular liking for the technology but I'm sure if he made one it would sell well enough. 

 I agree though that putting out a single run of 12 units doesn't give you the chance to wait for feedback. At the very least I think offering a second run 6 months later would be much appreciated. I for one am not about to gamble $3k+ on an unknown product, especially when the parts used (i.e. things like 12AX7s) don't seem that appealing. For this reason alone I'd buy Singlepower in favor of virtually everything else on the market. You know what you're getting, you know it's going to sound great and you can get it customized too. But yes, if the aesthetics are not to your taste I can see that being a bit of a killer.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quality control issues are of course a concern but I don't think any company or individual is immune to making a mistake here or there, especially the smaller operations._

 

Sure, there might be necessary to perform warranty repairs on products from any manufacturer.
 But I would expect quality control for a $10.000+ amplifier to detect crossed right/left attenuators before it leaves the factory. 

  Quote:


 Personally I wouldn't touch a Ray Samuels electrostatic amp largely because he seems to have no particular liking for the technology but I'm sure if he made one it would sell well enough. 
 

Ray Samuels is known to produce quality products, and I don't remember ever reading about any quality issues with any of his amplifiers. So I really have no fear of buying his first electrostatic amplifier, if he ever decide to build one.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ray Samuels is known to produce quality products, and I don't remember ever reading about any quality issues with any of his amplifiers. So I really have no fear of buying his first electrostatic amplifier, if he ever decide to build one._

 

I have, there's a few cases that have been mentioned in the past, but it certainly seems to be rare. I have nothing against him personally, he's certainly got a lot of satisfied customers and deservedly so it would seem. I doubt he's going to make a stat amp anyway if my memory of old posts serves me since he doesn't like the sound but if he did I'm definitely not going to be first in line to buy one. Largely because I'd have trouble believing that someone who does not like the sound of electrostatics would design an amp that retains all of their characteristics. I appreciate the smaller form factor of his amps may be appealing but speaking in purely generic terms (not implying anything about Ray's amps), big amps with big well designed power supplies do often provide superior results. Wanting something small yet powerful is often (but not always) a case of wanting to have your cake and eat it too.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ray Samuels is known to produce quality products, and I don't remember ever reading about any quality issues with any of his amplifiers. So I really have no fear of buying his first electrostatic amplifier, if he ever decide to build one._

 

*Silence falls* Well, heh. Much discussion has occurred through the years and has been permanently removed and fallen into the darkness. Most of the heroes no longer find it necessary to speak out regarding the chaos of the past.


----------



## ericj

As promised, pics of my E.9 energizer. Clickable as usual. 





















 Obviously this thing has been modified. Presumably to work properly on 110v, but who knows. Anybody got a schematic for the E.9?

 Is the Koss E.9 socket physically the same as the Stax socket? Gilmore suggests a $12 part from allied-electronics (WPI model 91-PC6F) - any other compatible parts?


----------



## tyre

Quote:


 Anybody got a schematic for the E.9? 
 

I don't think one has ever been posted before. But most of the energizers seem to be pretty similar, some more complex than others but still have the same basic setup. AFAIK, none of the Stax energizers have a transformer before the bias supply, they're just connected directly to an outlet. Your E.9 obviously has that extra transformer, as well as some extra components for the switchable bias supply. I have no idea how a self-bias supply works though.

 That push-button speaker switch looks really old timey.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have, there's a few cases that have been mentioned in the past, but it certainly seems to be rare. I have nothing against him personally, he's certainly got a lot of satisfied customers and deservedly so it would seem._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Silence falls* Well, heh. Much discussion has occurred through the years and has been permanently removed and fallen into the darkness. Most of the heroes no longer find it necessary to speak out regarding the chaos of the past._

 

These issues has either been posted a long time ago, or I have totally missed them. Cause I have not seen any since I became active on Head-Fi a year ago.

 At least he seems to have lots of satisfied customers these days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I doubt he's going to make a stat amp anyway if my memory of old posts serves me since he doesn't like the sound but if he did I'm definitely not going to be first in line to buy one. Largely because I'd have trouble believing that someone who does not like the sound of electrostatics would design an amp that retains all of their characteristics. I appreciate the smaller form factor of his amps may be appealing but speaking in purely generic terms (not implying anything about Ray's amps), big amps with big well designed power supplies do often provide superior results. Wanting something small yet powerful is often (but not always) a case of wanting to have your cake and eat it too. 
 

I doubt we will ever see a electrostatic amplifier from Ray, but if he ever decide to build one I am all in for it. I expect nothing less than the B-52 when it comes to build quality and looks though. 

 When he construct a $5,000+ amplifier I believe it will be done properly. Where the end result will be a powerful and great sounding amplifier.



*Edit:* Ooops! I have been carried away, and ended far off from what I wanted to discuss. 

 The fact that Justin (HeadAmp) lately have concentrated on developing limited edition amplifiers in small production numbers (12 for the Aristaeus, and 10 for the Blue Hawaii Special Edition), rather than developing amplifiers for the "masses".

 I would love to see a great sounding/looking and feature rich electrostatic tube amplifier from HeadAmp, which would be produced in volumes higher than 12. That way we could wait for some initial listening impressions and pictures before we decide to buy one.
 Just take the Aristaeus as an example. When the first listening impressions and pictures showed up it was already to late to buy one (all 12 were sold). I bet he could have sold more of them if they were available...
 The same goes for the Blue Hawaii Special Edition. Nobody know what it will sound or look like, and when they do its most probably too late (all 10 might have been sold).

 I can't be the only one who actually want to see pictures and read listening impressions of a $4.000 product before I buy one?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *strungoutt1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems ive come full circle and come to think about some elctrostatics. I was planning on trying to buy a ATH L3000 until I realized that for 2300$ an 02 system was in my range. I listen to mostly rock, with a lot of harder rock like opeth. But I do also listen to quite a lot of tehcno/electronic music. Not to mention a bit of everything else besides country. I would say 60rock/40other. I dont listen to that much classical or jass, but while I had my K1000's I ended up listening to a lot of music like that because it was so beautiful. How do you think the 02 would suit me? I like comfort also. If I get an 02 I was thinking of the KGSS amp because it's only a little bit more than a stax amp.

 But how do you think the 02 will do for me? Does it just fail when it comes to rock? I love the idea of electrostats and they look mighty comfy, but its a lot. Thanks_

 

I am pretty sure the Omega II will fit you like a glow.
 In my opinion they handle all kind of music very well. They are certainly not bass shy, as many try to tell you, and have all the speed and micro dynamics ever needed to handle techno/electronic music. They are also über comfortable!

 You know you want one...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the Koss E.9 socket physically the same as the Stax socket? Gilmore suggests a $12 part from allied-electronics (WPI model 91-PC6F) - any other compatible parts?_

 

Same plug, same socket (unlike that bloody ESP950 plug), and that Allied connector will do just fine. They pinout is different from Stax, however, so don't wire it wrong.


----------



## terance

i feel a little shy coming to the stax thread since i only have the baby stax. . .

 but they are awesome

 that is all


----------



## duderuud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i feel a little shy coming to the stax thread since i only have the baby stax. . .

 but they are awesome

 that is all_

 

LOL


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i feel a little shy coming to the stax thread since i only have the baby stax. . .

 but they are awesome_

 

No need to be shy!
 All Stax owners, and potential owners, are more than welcome to post in this threa. Regardless if they have an entry, vintage or top model... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The baby Stax (S-001mk2/SR-003) are great headphones, so you are not missing out on _too_ much.


----------



## terance

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need to be shy!
 All Stax owners, and potential owners, are more than welcome to post in this threa. Regardless if they have an entry, vintage or top model... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The baby Stax (S-001mk2/SR-003) are great headphones, so you are not missing out on too much._

 

thanks, i REALLY enjoy em, it's a nice change from my e500's

 i've already decided that I am not going to buy anymore headphones till I can afford the Omega II's (system) and a nice cd player

 the dac will have to wait. . .


----------



## ericj

So, I'm gonna go out on a limb and suppose that the hum heard when using the bias transformer in an E.9 energizer (vs. self bias) is probably due to the bias transformer being 1cm from one of the audio transformers. 

 Since my E.9 is such a train wreck already, and the power cord is missing it's plug already, how's about i get one of those wall-wart enclosures from Jameco and externally enclose my bias transformer, get it a few feet from the audio stuff? 

 I have as big a problem with high-voltage power umbilicals as anybody, but in this case it would be a captive cord on both ends.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I'm gonna go out on a limb and suppose that the hum heard when using the bias transformer in an E.9 energizer (vs. self bias) is probably due to the bias transformer being 1cm from one of the audio transformers. 

 Since my E.9 is such a train wreck already, and the power cord is missing it's plug already, how's about i get one of those wall-wart enclosures from Jameco and externally enclose my bias transformer, get it a few feet from the audio stuff? 

 I have as big a problem with high-voltage power umbilicals as anybody, but in this case it would be a captive cord on both ends._

 

The hum is a well documented problem and it's because the diodes and caps in the bias supply are shot. Replacing them will fix it. 

 A normal 600v teflon wire is fine for the bias supply. If you want to be extra careful you can always put heatshrink around the wire or encase it in a teflon tube. 

 The ESP9 use the same plug as Stax but they aren't compatible. If you want to use them with a Stax amp you'll have to remove all of the circuits inside the cups and connect directly to the drivers. You can't have both unless you put a selector switch in each cup. They will no doubt sound better direct but I'm not sure what bias voltage they use but they are fine running off a Normal bias plug.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The hum is a well documented problem and it's because the diodes and caps in the bias supply are shot. Replacing them will fix it._

 

Good to know. Those caps are of questionable quality anyway. Most of them, at least. 

 Is there any wisdom passed down through the ages regarding the voltage ratings? 1kv caps are no problem to source - i can get very nice MLCCs at 1kv - but some of them are rated for 2kv, and there is a 220pf 3kv cap in each earcup. 

 Surely 3kv is way over the actual voltage in the circuit, maybe they just wanted thicker dielectric for better frequency response? At 3kv, the replacements i can get from digikey or mouser look a heck of a lot like the original. At 1kv, I can get silver-mica caps. Surface mount, but large enough that they should be able to straddle the pads on the board. 

  Quote:


 A normal 600v teflon wire is fine for the bias supply. If you want to be extra careful you can always put heatshrink around the wire or encase it in a teflon tube. 
 

I was actually thinking about using the existing captive power cord. It's just the plug on the end that's gone missing. 

 I have about 14 pounds of misc teflon (PTFE) insulated silver plated stranded wire, mostly 22awg. A lot of it is shielded twisted pair, with a teflon outer jacket. This stuff is mil-spec (NASA surplus, I'm told), and highly abrasion resistant (read: stiff and waxy, not soft and cuddly). 

 I don't have the mil spec number for it, but it should probably be able to do the job. I would have to get a tighter strain relief for the E.9. It's bright white, but i have plenty of pleasing black-with-white-stripe braid sheathing. 

 Unfortunately the shielded twisted pair is a bit stiff for headphone cable use. The ESP9 stock cable is pretty short, and the extension cord that came with my kit is very stiff. I suppose i should investigate some of this 'star quad' stuff. Or i could just bundle 5 wires together inside some braid sheathing, but Koss seems to have used shielded 4-condutor.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good to know. Those caps are of questionable quality anyway. Most of them, at least. 

 Is there any wisdom passed down through the ages regarding the voltage ratings? 1kv caps are no problem to source - i can get very nice MLCCs at 1kv - but some of them are rated for 2kv, and there is a 220pf 3kv cap in each earcup. 

 Surely 3kv is way over the actual voltage in the circuit, maybe they just wanted thicker dielectric for better frequency response? At 3kv, the replacements i can get from digikey or mouser look a heck of a lot like the original. At 1kv, I can get silver-mica caps. Surface mount, but large enough that they should be able to straddle the pads on the board._

 

Most of the E.9 is questionable but the parts quality wasn't all that great. All those jumper cables drove me nuts so I'm going to scrap the box and convert the phones to the Stax standard. If I ever figure out the correct bias voltage I'll make an adapter for that. Parts quality in the bias supply doesn't matter all that much as long as it can get the required charge. Nice caps can't hurt though but I think that the diodes hold the key. They have come a long way in 30 years and should be replaced with something better. 

 There shouldn't higher voltage inside the unit then 1kv but there are so many revisions of the E.9 I can't be sure. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was actually thinking about using the existing captive power cord. It's just the plug on the end that's gone missing. 

 I have about 14 pounds of misc teflon (PTFE) insulated silver plated stranded wire, mostly 22awg. A lot of it is shielded twisted pair, with a teflon outer jacket. This stuff is mil-spec (NASA surplus, I'm told), and highly abrasion resistant (read: stiff and waxy, not soft and cuddly). 

 I don't have the mil spec number for it, but it should probably be able to do the job. I would have to get a tighter strain relief for the E.9. It's bright white, but i have plenty of pleasing black-with-white-stripe braid sheathing. 

 Unfortunately the shielded twisted pair is a bit stiff for headphone cable use. The ESP9 stock cable is pretty short, and the extension cord that came with my kit is very stiff. I suppose i should investigate some of this 'star quad' stuff. Or i could just bundle 5 wires together inside some braid sheathing, but Koss seems to have used shielded 4-condutor._

 

The old mains cable should work. It could be a good idea to relocate the bias supply and if you ever figure out the correct voltage please let me know. The adapter has some other problems though, primarily it's over complicated design and endless jumper wires. 

 My ESP9 have a 5 conductor cable but it is very stiff and unwieldy like yours. I have replaced cables with 6 wire bundles of 28AWG teflon wovers wire I had here and it works great. It's not as good as the Stax ribbon cables but it does the job. The wire can be tiny because there is very little current flowing through them. Sennheiser user very fine (26-28AWG) in their stats' but Stax uses much thicker wires so they must thick thicker is better.


----------



## humanflyz

The fact that Justin (HeadAmp) lately have concentrated on developing limited edition amplifiers in small production numbers (12 for the Aristaeus, and 10 for the Blue Hawaii Special Edition), rather than developing amplifiers for the "masses".

 I would love to see a great sounding/looking and feature rich electrostatic tube amplifier from HeadAmp, which would be produced in volumes higher than 12. That way we could wait for some initial listening impressions and pictures before we decide to buy one.
 Just take the Aristaeus as an example. When the first listening impressions and pictures showed up it was already to late to buy one (all 12 were sold). I bet he could have sold more of them if they were available...
 The same goes for the Blue Hawaii Special Edition. Nobody know what it will sound or look like, and when they do its most probably too late (all 10 might have been sold).

 I can't be the only one who actually want to see pictures and read listening impressions of a $4.000 product before I buy one?[/QUOTE]

 You do realize that HeadAmp is just a one-man operation right? And Justin is only 20-something years old, so it's kind of unrealistic to expect him to produce things in mass. And on top of the electrostat stuff he has to fulfill his more pedestrian orders like the Gilmore Lite, which probably sells way more.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do realize that HeadAmp is just a one-man operation right? And Justin is only 20-something years old, so it's kind of unrealistic to expect him to produce things in mass. And on top of the electrostat stuff he has to fulfill his more pedestrian orders like the Gilmore Lite, which probably sells way more._

 

Indeed. And unlike some of the other amplifier vendors, he neither outsources nor possess large resources in terms of machinery. (Examples can be given for each of those two cases.) Justin, on the other hand, design/orders and build/assembles the amps instead (in a fashion closer to that of professional "d.i.y.").


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most of the E.9 is questionable but the parts quality wasn't all that great. All those jumper cables drove me nuts so I'm going to scrap the box and convert the phones to the Stax standard. If I ever figure out the correct bias voltage I'll make an adapter for that._

 

Yeah, personally I'm gonna wait until i have 'stats that are worth plugging into a stax amp before i go hooking things up to stax amps. I've got all of $40 in these *after shipping.

  Quote:


 Parts quality in the bias supply doesn't matter all that much as long as it can get the required charge. Nice caps can't hurt though but I think that the diodes hold the key. They have come a long way in 30 years and should be replaced with something better. 
 

I'm not talking about doing films all the way through, but the newer monolythic ceramic formulations are faster, lower leakage, etc. The cost difference between using run of the mill discs like are in there already and upscale MLCCs should be on the order of about $5. 

 Yeah, it's chock full of 1n4007's, and i do understand that even the 1n4007 has come a long way in 30 years. I have a bevy of BYV95C controlled-avalanche rectifiers but they have a max repetitive reverse voltage of 600v, may not be enough. 

 Maybe it'll be enough to use current production 1n4007's. 


  Quote:


 There shouldn't higher voltage inside the unit then 1kv but there are so many revisions of the E.9 I can't be sure. 
 

Thanks. I figured that was more or less the case. 

  Quote:


 The old mains cable should work. It could be a good idea to relocate the bias supply and if you ever figure out the correct voltage please let me know. The adapter has some other problems though, primarily it's over complicated design and endless jumper wires. 
 

I've been pondering the question of self-bias vs. external bias power, and i'm going to have to spend some time tracing out part of that circuit. 

 At the very least i need to figure out hot vs. neutral vs. earth on the existing cord. That reminds me, I need to stop by home depot on the way home and get a three-prong AC plug.


  Quote:


 My ESP9 have a 5 conductor cable but it is very stiff and unwieldy like yours. I have replaced cables with 6 wire bundles of 28AWG teflon wovers wire I had here and it works great. It's not as good as the Stax ribbon cables but it does the job. The wire can be tiny because there is very little current flowing through them. Sennheiser user very fine (26-28AWG) in their stats' but Stax uses much thicker wires so they must thick thicker is better. 
 

Ah. Well, perhaps i will cannibalize my existing connector, clean it up with deoxit, and run five loose 22awg teflon insulated wires through a loose jacket. Sounds like it oughta do the job as long as i have appropriate strain relief on both end. This would be the cheap way to do it, I just have to pull stuff out of my own parts piles.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do realize that HeadAmp is just a one-man operation right? And Justin is only 20-something years old, so it's kind of unrealistic to expect him to produce things in mass. And on top of the electrostat stuff he has to fulfill his more pedestrian orders like the Gilmore Lite, which probably sells way more._

 

I am perfectly aware that HeadAmp is a one-man operation (Justin).
 I also understand that $3-4.000 electrostatic amplifiers never will be any vendors best seller. Their lowest priced unit will most probably take that place. With "masses" I mean a bit more than 10/12 units, but certainly not mass-production in 100's of units.

 But I just think it would be more time efficient to construct and fine tune one really good amplifier, then spend more time building that amplifier. Than to constantly construct new amplifiers (one after another), and spend less time building them...

 Edit:
 Guess I will never be happy with the higher-end electrostatic amplifiers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They are either not balanced (HeadAmp Aristaeus), using a ugly off-the-shelf chassis (HeadAmp Blue Hawaii),or ugly (imo) and with potential quality issues (Singlepower ES-1).

 The HeadAmp Blue Hawaii Special Edition sounds very promising though.
 It just remains to be seen if its too late to order one when we know what it will sound and look like.


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am perfectly aware that HeadAmp is a one-man operation (Justin).
 I also understand that $3-4.000 electrostatic amplifiers never will be any vendors best seller. Their lowest priced unit will most probably take that place. With "masses" I mean a bit more than 10/12 units, but certainly not mass-production in 100's of units.

 But I just think it would be more time efficient to construct and fine tune one really good amplifier, then spend more time building that amplifier. Than to constantly construct new amplifiers (one after another), and spend less time building them..._

 

But you have to realize that the Aristaeus was never really planned as a commercial product: Justin only agreed to build it because there was a demand for a limited edition e-stat amp for those people who got in in the limited HE90 re-issue. I guess from Justin's point of view, there isn't enough demand for a mass-market (relatively speaking) e-stat amp to justify designing another one than the KGSS he currently offers.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But you have to realize that the Aristaeus was never really planned as a commercial product: Justin only agreed to build it because there was a demand for a limited edition e-stat amp for those people who got in in the limited HE90 re-issue. I guess from Justin's point of view, there isn't enough demand for a mass-market (relatively speaking) e-stat amp to justify designing another one than the KGSS he currently offers._

 

Right, it was more of a custom demand build. Blue Hawaii and KGSS are both Gilmore designs. My view is that Justin just builds them and then released a heavily maxed out version of each as limited runs (most probably based on custom demand as well).


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right, it was more of a custom demand build. Blue Hawaii and KGSS are both Gilmore designs. My viiew is that Justin just builds them and then released a heavily maxed out version of each as limited runs (most probably based on custom demand as well)._

 

Yup, Justin doesn't release limited edition amps for the sake of releasing limited edition products; he does it because there is enough demand to make it worth his while. For example, a while back Akwok and I were trying to persuade Justin to custom build us a FirstWatt F1 for the K1000s, but we couldn't get enough people to make this possible.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess I will never be happy with the higher-end electrostatic amplifiers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They are either not balanced (HeadAmp Aristaeus), using a ugly off-the-shelf chassis (HeadAmp Blue Hawaii),or ugly (imo) and with potential quality issues (Singlepower ES-1)._

 

I agree the Blue Hawaii and the KGSS aren't very nice looking. But the bigger turnoff for me is dual-mono volume controls. I can't stand that!

 Patrick


----------



## milkpowder

I quite like the looks! It's a no-frills, elegant design that looks like they mean business. I've never used one but I expect dual mono volume controls to be a pain in the butt to use. I'm sure you could ask Justin to use a single stereo stepped attenuator instead of the dual-mono... Are there any benefits for using a dual-mono volume control setup?


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I quite like the looks! It's a no-frills, elegant design that looks like they mean business. I've never used one but I expect dual mono volume controls to be a pain in the butt to use. I'm sure you could ask Justin to use a single stereo stepped attenuator instead of the dual-mono... Are there any benefits for using a dual-mono volume control setup?_

 

Independent channel adjustment could be useful for people with imbalanced hearing, or correct for channel imbalance elsewhere in the system. And yes, Justin will swap out the dual-mono stepped attenuators for a single, 4-channel attenuator with no charge.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But you have to realize that the Aristaeus was never really planned as a commercial product: Justin only agreed to build it because there was a demand for a limited edition e-stat amp for those people who got in in the limited HE90 re-issue. I guess from Justin's point of view, there isn't enough demand for a mass-market (relatively speaking) e-stat amp to justify designing another one than the KGSS he currently offers._

 

I am perfectly aware of the history behind the Aristaeus. That it was developed, on request, as a HEV90 alternative for the 12 people who bought the second Sennheiser HE90 batch in late 2005.
 I simply fail to understand why he stop production at such low numbers. Why not make it available as a built to order product? After all the amplifier were developed and ready to be produced. If nobody ordered don't build any, or if someone want one build him/her an Aristaeus.

 The same goes for the upcoming Blue Hawaii Special Edition. Why limit it to 10 amplifiers only? Lets say 15 people want the amplifier, but only 10 of them will get one. The last 5 will have to move on...
 A better way would imo be to take orders and build an amplifier to all those that want one.

 Place the Blue Hawaii Special Edition in beautiful special designed chassis', just like the one he made for the Aristaeus. Then he have a product that should satisfy most electrostatic (Stax) lovers a good time into the future.


----------



## milkpowder

Thanks humanflyz.

 Does anyone actually have a HeadAmp KGSS? I read sometime ago that Justin has made some improvements. The innards no longer look the same as the ones on the HeadAmp site. Can someone please take some pictures? Pretty please?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 krmathis, I'm puzzled too. What's going to happen to the design of the Aristaeus. It would be a waste if Justin were to just let it die off... I'm sure he put a lot of effort into it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, I'm puzzled too. What's going to happen to the design of the Aristaeus. It would be a waste if Justin were to just let it die off... I'm sure he put a lot of effort into it._

 

Finally someone that seems to agree with me! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Its a shame to see the beautiful design of the Aristaeus die off.
 The perfect opportunity would be to re-use the design in the Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and make this amplifier open for orders a while after listening impressions and pictures have been posted.


----------



## Downrange

I discussed the dual control issue with Justin, and concluded I'd rather keep it. The front panel looks unbalanced with just the one knob, imo. Doesn't seem to be that big a deal to just turn both controls, to me...
 Can't wait to try out my KGSS!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I simply fail to understand why he stop production at such low numbers._

 

Because he didn't make money off it.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Because he didn't make money off it._

 

As a dark side of that idea, this may possibly be one of the reasons that Justin is one of the few who do make electrostatic amplifiers. Singlepower can also lower costs, presumably because of his machinery. You would not expect RSA to do it in terms of this perspective.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Because he didn't make money off it._

 

If the production costs for the additional amplifiers (after the 10/12 first ones) are higher than the sales price then I fully understand him. With production costs I mean parts and manpower needed to assemble the amplifier (its already fully developed and tested, so there will be no additional development costs).

 Higher production numbers would actually lower the cost for each of the amplifiers, since development costs would be shared on more amplifiers. In addition he might get lower prices on parts when ordering higher volumes.
 Aka, sell the amplifiers for the same price and earn more money on each of them.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally someone that seems to agree with me! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Its a shame to see the beautiful design of the Aristaeus die off.
 The perfect opportunity would be to re-use the design in the Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and make this amplifier open for orders a while after listening impressions and pictures have been posted._

 

But the Blue Hawaii is a modified KGSS project isn't it? The Aristaeus is a completely different breed, drawing inspiration from the HEV90 rather than the T2. It would seem slightly odd to use the Aristaeus design in a BH SE.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I discussed the dual control issue with Justin, and concluded I'd rather keep it. The front panel looks unbalanced with just the one knob, imo. Doesn't seem to be that big a deal to just turn both controls, to me...
 Can't wait to try out my KGSS!_

 

Congrats! You must post _detailed, high resolution pictures_ of the outside and the inside! We want to be able to see the camera reflection on the gold traces!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Because he didn't make money off it._

 

Maybe he should've charged slightly more and made a bit of money from it even though that might've been exactly what he didn't want to do. Those Orpheus buyers would've bought them regardless of cost. Bit of a stupid question, but are the more expensive HeadAmp amps assembled and soldered by hand? *sigh* Justin's more than just an amp builder, he's a businessman too. I'm sure he knows what he's doing


----------



## humanflyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bit of a stupid question, but are the more expensive HeadAmp amps assembled and soldered by hand?_

 

Justin doesn't outsource of his labor, so he is truly a one-man operation.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin doesn't outsource of his labor, so he is truly a one-man operation._

 

Hats off to him then. How he manages such consistently clean builds is beyond my imagination. It must take freakin' ages to solder everything onto the boards...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But the Blue Hawaii is a modified KGSS project isn't it? The Aristaeus is a completely different breed, drawing inspiration from the HEV90 rather than the T2. It would seem slightly odd to use the Aristaeus design in a BH SE._

 

So the Kevin Gilmore designed Blue Hawaii would not look great in custom built aluminum chassis', with a custom volume know, laser engraved text and all? But the Justin designed Aristaeus will...
 Who designed the amplifier should be irrelevant, since I am only talking about laying out the amplifier nicely on print boards and place them in two custom built chassis' (one for the amp and another for the power supply).

 I guess I will just hang on until Justin release the Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and hopefully it will be exactly what I am looking for -> a Blue Hawaii with the good looks of the Aristaeus.
 Or else I will ask Justin what his next project will be...


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But the Blue Hawaii is a modified KGSS project isn't it? The Aristaeus is a completely different breed, drawing inspiration from the HEV90 rather than the T2. It would seem slightly odd to use the Aristaeus design in a BH SE._

 

The Blue Hawaii is a Gilmore design. The Blue Hawaii special edition is based on the Blue Hawaii design; I don't know its technical or aesthetic details.
  Quote:


 Maybe he should've charged slightly more and made a bit of money from it even though that might've been exactly what he didn't want to do. Those Orpheus buyers would've bought them regardless of cost. Bit of a stupid question, but are the more expensive HeadAmp amps assembled and soldered by hand? *sigh* Justin's more than just an amp builder, he's a businessman too. I'm sure he knows what he's doing
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

All of the amps are assembled by hand. There is a bit of politics and ethics in this; Justin is part of a group of individuals, and as a member of that group, he would not overcharge his customers. Most people of the group know the inner workings of the business and know what is reasonable and what is not.


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am perfectly aware that HeadAmp is a one-man operation (Justin).
 I also understand that $3-4.000 electrostatic amplifiers never will be any vendors best seller. Their lowest priced unit will most probably take that place. With "masses" I mean a bit more than 10/12 units, but certainly not mass-production in 100's of units.

 But I just think it would be more time efficient to construct and fine tune one really good amplifier, then spend more time building that amplifier. Than to constantly construct new amplifiers (one after another), and spend less time building them...

 Edit:
 Guess I will never be happy with the higher-end electrostatic amplifiers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They are either not balanced (HeadAmp Aristaeus), using a ugly off-the-shelf chassis (HeadAmp Blue Hawaii),or ugly (imo) and with potential quality issues (Singlepower ES-1).

 The HeadAmp Blue Hawaii Special Edition sounds very promising though.
 It just remains to be seen if its too late to order one when we know what it will sound and look like._

 

I was told that the Blue Hawaii SE will look amazing, with a custom chassis (not off-the-shelf like the normal Blue Hawaii). Hell, if it looks anything like the GS-X, that's already damn good enough!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *akwok* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that the Blue Hawaii SE will look amazing, with a custom chassis (not off-the-shelf like the normal Blue Hawaii). Hell, if it looks anything like the GS-X, that's already damn good enough!_

 

Justin told me the same. That the Blue Hawaii SE will have a custom chassis, in comparison to his earlier Blue Hawaii and the KGSS.
 I will most probably be pleased if it ends up with chassis' like the GS-X.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats! You must post detailed, high resolution pictures of the outside and the inside! We want to be able to see the camera reflection on the gold traces!_

 

Gladly. It should be here sometime in late April/early May. Looking forward to running a detailed comparo with the tube SRM-007tII.


----------



## milkpowder

Now that would be interesting seeing oo7tII vs KGSS fight to the finish especially because they cost within a couple hundred bucks of each other.

 Just one question: Your 007tII is an international version according to Bluetin. Does it have a 110/240V switch?

 Direct quote from Bluetin.com:
  Quote:


 *4040A or 4040II*

 SRS-*4040A is the Japan version* where the driver unit runs on 90-110v, compatible with North America and other 110-120v countries. A voltage converter is provided for use in 240-230v countries.

 SRS-*4040II is the International version*, with the driver unit running on 120-240v. We dont have this version.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that would be interesting seeing oo7tII vs KGSS fight to the finish especially because they cost within a couple hundred bucks of each other.

 Just one question: Your 007tII is an international version according to Bluetin. Does it have a 110/240V switch?

 Direct quote from Bluetin.com:_

 

Just so. I'm really very happy with the 007tII, but I keep hearing so much about how the higher swing voltage on the KGSS "brings the OIIs alive." I want to see for myself. I've already satisfied myself that the SRD-7Pro with good amps can't keep up with tthe 007t, something I was also wondering about. I will probably sell the loser of the battle of the amps, and maybe even upgrade to a Blue Hawaii, eventually.
 The SRM-007tII I have is a U.S. model, fully warranted, from Elusive Audio, though, so can't speak to switching in the PS. I'm pretty sure they require some re-soldering of the power transformer leads to convert to other voltages. But I haven't even had the covers off yet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 What is bluetin?


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

I have a KGSS DX that I could take pics of for you if you want. Although it is in a different form factor than the standard KGSS.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks humanflyz.

 Does anyone actually have a HeadAmp KGSS? I read sometime ago that Justin has made some improvements. The innards no longer look the same as the ones on the HeadAmp site. Can someone please take some pictures? Pretty please?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Happy Listening!


----------



## milkpowder

Pictures please! I'd love to see what the inside looks in a _modern_ KGSS. Does Justin still make the DX version of the KGSS? What's different about it? General price range? I'm not going to bug Justin about it because I'm not going to be getting one any time soon.


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Allright give me a few days to get those pics for you. I am pretty sure that he still makes the DX. My DX is a KGSS as maxed as it can be and includes a huge toroidal, different chassis, 4 huge black gate caps, 3 inputs including one balanced, silver wiring, 2 stax jacks and one HE90 jack, Dual Gold Point ladder-type stepped attenuators, upgraded components (resistors and such), and other stuff I probably am not mentioning. I am not sure on the price on them as I traded for mine but I estimate around 3kish.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pictures please! I'd love to see what the inside looks in a modern KGSS. Does Justin still make the DX version of the KGSS? What's different about it? General price range? I'm not going to bug Justin about it because I'm not going to be getting one any time soon._

 

Happy Listening!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is bluetin?_

 

Bluetin is an seller of headphones and other audio gear based in Singapore. They sell internationally, and is one of the few stores that sell Japanese-versions of Audio-Technica and Stax gear.

 On a side note, since Audio-Technica does not sell their high end headphones outside of the Japan, a third-party service or international importer/seller such as Bluetin and Audio-Cubes are the only ways to acquire such cans.


----------



## Carl

Blutack seems to have tamed my SC4070s somewhat. I's interesting how little changes can make big differences in sound.


----------



## derekbmn

KGSS DX


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I've already satisfied myself that the SRD-7Pro with good amps can't keep up with tthe 007t, something I was also wondering about._

 

How many amps have you tried now ? I'm telling ya pure Class A is the way to go, and Pass Labs in particular. They run hot as hell and sound hot too.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How many amps have you tried now ? I'm telling ya pure Class A is the way to go, and Pass Labs in particular. They run hot as hell and sound hot too.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well the 007t is class A too...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the 007t is class A too..._

 

And so is the 313...

 With Class AB amps (to the transformers) I experienced the same things he disliked - A lack of dynamic range , and less air surrounding vocals and instruments. The same can be said with SS preamps in the chain.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, personally I'm gonna wait until i have 'stats that are worth plugging into a stax amp before i go hooking things up to stax amps. I've got all of $40 in these *after shipping._

 

Last time I opened the phones up I retraced the circuit in the cups and it is the normal Koss mess. Koss was one of those firms that tried to improve the electrostatic concept with some odd ideas like stacking driveunits. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not talking about doing films all the way through, but the newer monolythic ceramic formulations are faster, lower leakage, etc. The cost difference between using run of the mill discs like are in there already and upscale MLCCs should be on the order of about $5._

 

For 5$ I'd go for it. It's a lot of fun to restore these things. It looks like I'll be getting a defective set of Marantz stats' to restore soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, it's chock full of 1n4007's, and i do understand that even the 1n4007 has come a long way in 30 years. I have a bevy of BYV95C controlled-avalanche rectifiers but they have a max repetitive reverse voltage of 600v, may not be enough. 

 Maybe it'll be enough to use current production 1n4007's._

 

Stick with 1Kv to be safe. Because I don't know the bias I can't guess the maximum drive voltage

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been pondering the question of self-bias vs. external bias power, and i'm going to have to spend some time tracing out part of that circuit. 

 At the very least i need to figure out hot vs. neutral vs. earth on the existing cord. That reminds me, I need to stop by home depot on the way home and get a three-prong AC plug._

 

Self bias is connected to the secondaries of the audio transformers and should be the same as mains powered bias. I don't know why the self -bias is lower then the mains because this isn't the case with Stax gear. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah. Well, perhaps i will cannibalize my existing connector, clean it up with deoxit, and run five loose 22awg teflon insulated wires through a loose jacket. Sounds like it oughta do the job as long as i have appropriate strain relief on both end. This would be the cheap way to do it, I just have to pull stuff out of my own parts piles._

 

That will work. You can get the plug from Allied Elec. and it is the exact same part.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How many amps have you tried now ? I'm telling ya pure Class A is the way to go, and Pass Labs in particular. They run hot as hell and sound hot too.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's not the amps - it's the transformer process that's killing the detail on the sound. Silk purse/sow's ear. 

 Dynamite pix on the DX, thanks!


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KGSS DX_

 

The design looks quite vintage. The PS caps are massive too. "I like!" (Borat impression)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The PS caps are massive too. "I like!" (Borat impression)_

 

Those are Black Gate WKZs. Probably the best available electrolytic power supply caps. Some gigantic automotive teflon caps would probably sound better, but they'd take up pretty much that entire case in terms of real estate.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ It looks like I'll be getting a defective set of Marantz stats' to restore soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah, so that was you. Congrats, you wanted 'em way more than i did. 

 There's a chance that there isn't a thing wrong with 'em and they just need to charge up for a half hour or so. I mean nothing wrong with them but shoddy construction. 

  Quote:


 That will work. You can get the plug from Allied Elec. and it is the exact same part. 
 

Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna be ordering connectors from allied. Last night i tried to free the connectors from my worthless extension cord, and, well, the bakelite is extremely brittle.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And so is the 313...

 With Class AB amps (to the transformers) I experienced the same things he disliked - A lack of dynamic range , and less air surrounding vocals and instruments. The same can be said with SS preamps in the chain._

 

What's funny is that Kevin Gilmore says he likes his SS amp better than his Blue Hawaii.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those are Black Gate WKZs. Probably the best available electrolytic power supply caps. Some gigantic automotive teflon caps would probably sound better, but they'd take up pretty much that entire case in terms of real estate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Heh... I found a site selling 100microFarad ones for $130 _each_


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh... I found a site selling 100microFarad ones for $130 each



_

 

Yeah they're not cheap. I'll eventually get a quad for the KGSS I'm building....but not for awhile


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also understand that $3-4.000 electrostatic amplifiers never will be any vendors best seller. Their lowest priced unit will most probably take that place. With "masses" I mean a bit more than 10/12 units, but certainly not mass-production in 100's of units.

 But I just think it would be more time efficient to construct and fine tune one really good amplifier, then spend more time building that amplifier. Than to constantly construct new amplifiers (one after another), and spend less time building them..._

 

The Aristaeus is not a $4000 amplifier. Justin realized that during the year he spent finishing the design. If he had known going in what the end product would cost him in terms of parts and time, the price would likely have been in the $6000-$8000 range. However, he honored his original price by reducing his profit significantly. His return on his investment was much lower than it should have been. 

 There is actually very little economics of scale in building a high-end amp. In order to build more amps, the builder has to buy more parts and invest more time. You do reach a point where you know which parts to buy, and how to build the amp efficiently, but all of the top amps are hand-built in the end, and there's a limit to how much you can shave parts costs without affecting quality. The low parts quantity does not allow for much leverage with parts suppliers, unless you can combine parts with other projects to make some large orders. And chassis suppliers are a nightmare unto themselves, almost regardless of quantity. But the same limited market that's not going to buy in quantity means that unless you've sold out the production run in advance, you've got a lot of parts and effort (read: money) sitting on a shelf waiting for a customer. 

 Tying up large sums of money in amps sitting on a shelf can kill a small operation (and also larger ones). They simply can't do a production run and wait to sell the amps, unless they've got some serious capital investment behind the company. Most of the people building headphone amps simply don't have that kind of resources. Yes, it would be more efficient to fine-tune and build a larger production run (assuming that your customers all want exactly the same thing, which they normally don't). 

 I'm sure if you were willing to provide the backing capital, any of the companies who build electrostatic amps (and probably some that normally don't) would be happy to do it. If the amps sell quickly, you might see a nice return on your investment. If the amps don't sell rapidly, or don't sell at all, just how long would you be able to go without return on that investment? Would you be able to lose money if the product didn't sell enough to cover costs? That's the kind of question an amp builder has to ask himself before even starting a project.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh... I found a site selling 100microFarad ones for $130 each



_

 

100mF is quite a dollop of capacitance, though. Most signal path capacitors are within an order of magnitude or two of a picofarad.


 Now an 100mF silver/paper/oil cap would be interesting...


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_100mF is quite a dollop of capacitance, though. Most signal path capacitors are within an order of magnitude or two of a picofarad.


 Now an 100mF silver/paper/oil cap would be interesting..._

 

Those arent' signal path caps...they are for the PS. At least the BGs in the pic, if that's what you're talking about.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those arent' signal path caps...they are for the PS. At least the BGs in the pic, if that's what you're talking about._

 

Read what I wrote again. What kind of cracked out circuit would use 100mF caps in the signal path?


----------



## krmathis

Hirsch. That pretty well explains it.
 Justin (HeadAmp) don't want to produce any more of his Aristaeus amplifier, because he would either not earn anything (if he sell them for $4,000) or have to ask 50-100% more ($6-8,000) than for the first batch.

 Then to prevent the same thing from happening with the Blue Hawaii SE he limit the production to 10 units. So he would not risk taking orders for 50 units and perhaps not break even on costs vs. sales once more...
 Thats understandable! 


 Thanks a lot for clarifying!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those are Black Gate WKZs. Probably the best available electrolytic power supply caps. Some gigantic automotive teflon caps would probably sound better, but they'd take up pretty much that entire case in terms of real estate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The WKZ's are great. I'm probably going with 8 pieces in my Blue Hawaii redesign all bypassed with V-Caps. Couple that to some Tamura transformers and it will be a kick ass dual mono PSU. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, so that was you. Congrats, you wanted 'em way more than i did. 

 There's a chance that there isn't a thing wrong with 'em and they just need to charge up for a half hour or so. I mean nothing wrong with them but shoddy construction._

 

I didn't want them all that much but they will be easy to fix. It's most likely the copper bars that connect the stators that have corroded. They were made by Stax and use the same drivers as Realistic and Magnavox. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, it looks like I'm gonna be ordering connectors from allied. Last night i tried to free the connectors from my worthless extension cord, and, well, the bakelite is extremely brittle._

 

The bakelite is horrible but the trick is to use a powerful soldering iron and melt the solder through the hole in the pin. It takes a while though.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I didn't want them all that much but they will be easy to fix. It's most likely the copper bars that connect the stators that have corroded. They were made by Stax and use the same drivers as Realistic and Magnavox. _

 

I only wanted 'em about $40 worth. I've bought a ton of cans lately and I want to get the ESP9 working before i get distracted by other mediocre 'stats. 

 It's been speculated that Stax intentionally did a poor job of attaching the driver to the front baffle. I was going to try putting a bead of permatex flowable silicone around the outer edge of the driver to make the mounting air-tight. 

 The flowable silicone is great because it will wick into small gaps where other silicones will just sit on top, and because if you screw up, it peels right off of nonporous surfaces. It's bonding ability is slight at best - it's just a sealant. Won't even lift flat paint off of MDF. 

 Great for rubberizing fabric and foam, too. A little more perminant in that situation. 

 Make sure you take lots of pictures for us 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 The bakelite is horrible but the trick is to use a powerful soldering iron and melt the solder through the hole in the pin. It takes a while though. 
 

Sounds like a job for my 800f wedge tip. 

 But after i get the connector loose, how do i get the business end of the connector off of the barrel of the connector without destroying it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only wanted 'em about $40 worth. I've bought a ton of cans lately and I want to get the ESP9 working before i get distracted by other mediocre 'stats. 

 It's been speculated that Stax intentionally did a poor job of attaching the driver to the front baffle. I was going to try putting a bead of permatex flowable silicone around the outer edge of the driver to make the mounting air-tight. 

 The flowable silicone is great because it will wick into small gaps where other silicones will just sit on top, and because if you screw up, it peels right off of nonporous surfaces. It's bonding ability is slight at best - it's just a sealant. Won't even lift flat paint off of MDF. 

 Great for rubberizing fabric and foam, too. A little more perminant in that situation. 

 Make sure you take lots of pictures for us 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My max was some 80$ but I'm an insane collector.  The Marantz is a much better stat' then the ESP9 could ever be compared on the same amp. . The only vintage American stat' manufacturer that did something good was Suprex although they were far from perfect. 

 What Stax driver are you talking about? Stax made some obvious short cuts on the OEM stats while the SR-3 and SR-5 are much better. They were more expensive though but the Magnavox is a text book example how not to make an electrostatic headphone. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like a job for my 800f wedge tip. 

 But after i get the connector loose, how do i get the business end of the connector off of the barrel of the connector without destroying it?_

 

The barrel is glued on so put some force with a knives edge and it should break free.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_The Marantz is a much better stat' then the ESP9 could ever be compared on the same amp._

 

And you paid only twice what i did for the ESP9. 

  Quote:


 The only vintage American stat' manufacturer that did something good was Suprex although they were far from perfect. 
 

Opinions vary a lot wrt low-end stats. I'll keep waiting for a Realistic HP-100 to show up. 

  Quote:


 What Stax driver are you talking about? Stax made some obvious short cuts on the OEM stats while the SR-3 and SR-5 are much better. They were more expensive though but the Magnavox is a text book example how not to make an electrostatic headphone. 
 

I was referring to speculation about why the Marantz SE-1S is arguably the worst of the Stax OEM cans. Specifically too much backwave leakage through the baffle and low-grade damping materials. 


  Quote:


 The barrel is glued on so put some force with a knives edge and it should break free. 
 

Yeah, that's what i was doing last night, and the bakelite that holds the pins together was breaking free, in small pieces. It was coming out of the barrel a little, but i was doing way too much damage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And you paid only twice what i did for the ESP9._

 

I never compare the sound of my stats to what I paid for them. They are always compared on how good they sound. The ESP9 are pretty good for their age and a few mods might make them even better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Opinions vary a lot wrt low-end stats. I'll keep waiting for a Realistic HP-100 to show up._

 

The HP-100 is just another OEM Stax nearly identical to the Magnavox 1A9217. There have only been two makers of electrostatic headphones in the US, Suprex and Koss. The rest was OEM Stax or Micro Seiki. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was referring to speculation about why the Marantz SE-1S is arguably the worst of the Stax OEM cans. Specifically too much backwave leakage through the baffle and low-grade damping materials._

 

If I remember correctly they pushed the driver into place with the backwave foam but didn't really mount it properly. The SR-3 has a rubber ring under the driver and then it is compressed by two pieces of the housing. Proper mounting of the driver is the key to a great sounding headphone. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that's what i was doing last night, and the bakelite that holds the pins together was breaking free, in small pieces. It was coming out of the barrel a little, but i was doing way too much damage._

 

I have used pieces of plastic pipes for barrels and covered it with heatshrink and it came out ok.


----------



## niels

Any recommendation for new 6CG7 tubes in a Stax 006t ?
 Leaning towards these :
http://www.upgradeaudio.com/img/R%F8...0CLEARTOPS.JPG
 Any suggestions welcome....


----------



## audiod

Does anyone have any DIY experience with the Kevin Gilmore tube amp that the Woo Audio GES is based on? I emailed Jack Woo to find out what the output voltage is. The response was: “The output signal voltage is -150v to +150v, or 300v swing. The max output would be the peak, which multiplies by 1.4”. More than likely I will buy an amp on recommendations rather than an audition (I don’t have any audio buds with the amps I’m considering). I want to make sure that I get an amp that will drive my O2’s to their full dynamic potential. Some people have complained that some of the after market amps (and some Stax SRM’s) do not have enough drive for the O2’s. I listen at moderate levels but I don’t like compressed dynamics. I also don’t like a loose or weak bass. I hear that the other Gilmore amps (KGSS & BH) have great drive. The Stax 717 and 727 are high output units also. Anybody have thoughts on this subject?

 Thanks
 AudioD


----------



## ericj

Quote:


 If I remember correctly they pushed the driver into place with the backwave foam but didn't really mount it properly. The SR-3 has a rubber ring under the driver and then it is compressed by two pieces of the housing. Proper mounting of the driver is the key to a great sounding headphone. 
 

Right. So, if you lay the driver against the baffle and lay a bead of silicone around the edge, you will have a completely sealed mounting. 


  Quote:


 I have used pieces of plastic pipes for barrels and covered it with heatshrink and it came out ok. 
 

I'm amazed that we still don't understand each-other. 

 The bakelite barrels are intact and doing fine. It's the part _with the pins sticking out of it_ that is slowly shattering.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The response was: “The output signal voltage is -150v to +150v, or 300v swing. The max output would be the peak, which multiplies by 1.4”_

 

That sounds like an unnecessarily difficult way of saying it. The +/-150v value is RMS (I always refer to swings as peak-to-peak values personally). Anyway, the power is 300Vrms or about 430Vp-p, which is similar to Stax's amps.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That sounds like an unnecessarily difficult way of saying it. The +/-150v value is RMS (I always refer to swings as peak-to-peak values personally). Anyway, the power is 300Vrms or about 430Vp-p, which is similar to Stax's amps._

 

Carl,
 300 RMS volt swing is kinda low compared to the KGSS, BH or 717/727. The 007t is 340 RMS. Is this on the low side of acceptable for the O2's? I keep hearing that the O2’s need a lot of drive to sound their best.


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any recommendation for new 6CG7 tubes in a Stax 006t ?
 Leaning towards these :
http://www.upgradeaudio.com/img/R%F8...0CLEARTOPS.JPG
 Any suggestions welcome...._

 

The price is climbing on these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Or-More-Tube-6...QQcmdZViewItem

 but at $12/tube is still not unreasonable. The short-plate Japanese Raytheon's (I've also seen them as several other brands, including Toshiba, who I suspect may be the actual manufacturer) are as good as I've heard the 007t sound, and I've also heard them in a friend's 006t (just as good there). Long-plate US made Raytheon tubes are not the same, and in my opinion the Japanese tubes are superior. Spritzer has posted biasing instructions for the 006t in this or the old Stax thread, IIRC.


----------



## mikeg

Jack Wu has completed construction of my WOO GES amp, equipped it to drive my HE90, sent me a picture, and said that it performs wonderfully. I've asked Jack to take it to the National Meet in San Jose, before he delivers it to me. Lets hope that some of the conference attendees try it with Stax and Orpheus headphones, and then post their comments.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have any DIY experience with the Kevin Gilmore tube amp that the Woo Audio GES is based on? I emailed Jack Woo to find out what the output voltage is. The response was: “The output signal voltage is -150v to +150v, or 300v swing. The max output would be the peak, which multiplies by 1.4”. More than likely I will buy an amp on recommendations rather than an audition (I don’t have any audio buds with the amps I’m considering). I want to make sure that I get an amp that will drive my O2’s to their full dynamic potential. Some people have complained that some of the after market amps (and some Stax SRM’s) do not have enough drive for the O2’s. I listen at moderate levels but I don’t like compressed dynamics. I also don’t like a loose or weak bass. I hear that the other Gilmore amps (KGSS & BH) have great drive. The Stax 717 and 727 are high output units also. Anybody have thoughts on this subject?

 Thanks
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right. So, if you lay the driver against the baffle and lay a bead of silicone around the edge, you will have a completely sealed mounting._

 

Stax used a rubber seal to do the same thing but clamping the driver brings a much bigger and better difference. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm amazed that we still don't understand each-other. 

 The bakelite barrels are intact and doing fine. It's the part with the pins sticking out of it that is slowly shattering._

 

I was talking about using a new connector and scrapping the old one. You can't modify these WPI connector because they will break. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price is climbing on these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Or-More-Tube-6...QQcmdZViewItem

 but at $12/tube is still not unreasonable. The short-plate Japanese Raytheon's (I've also seen them as several other brands, including Toshiba, who I suspect may be the actual manufacturer) are as good as I've heard the 007t sound, and I've also heard them in a friend's 006t (just as good there). Long-plate US made Raytheon tubes are not the same, and in my opinion the Japanese tubes are superior. Spritzer has posted biasing instructions for the 006t in this or the old Stax thread, IIRC._

 

I second Hirsch here. These are excellent tubes with no apparent faults. If you need the bias instructions PM me.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price is climbing on these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Or-More-Tube-6...QQcmdZViewItem

 but at $12/tube is still not unreasonable._

 

Thanks for the tip, Hirsch. I've just ordered two


----------



## niels

Thanks for the advice, I find those tubes very cheap actually !
 Eh, how will I know if I need biasing ? Guess my 006t still has the original (rca ?) tubes in it...


----------



## patrickamory

Surprising that nobody is going for these. Price seems decent with the energizer, and there's been enough said about the non-pro versions to spark my interest, anyway. Unfortunately I'm a strict no-audio-purchase diet at the moment, while I wait for my new Garrard plinth and EMT tonearm to arrive 

 No affiliation with the seller, etc.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tip, Hirsch. I've just ordered two 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ditto! Just ordered a quad for the 007tII

 Thanks!!


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jack Wu has completed construction of my WOO GES amp, equipped it to drive my HE90, sent me a picture, and said that it performs wonderfully. I've asked Jack to take it to the National Meet in San Jose, before he delivers it to me. Lets hope that some of the conference attendees try it with Stax and Orpheus headphones, and then post their comments._

 

Share the picture!


----------



## patrickamory

Ancient Stax amp on Yahoo Auctions Japan

 Apologies if this has been posted before... I missed it if so. SR3 X, or was that the headphone it was to be used with?

 If above link doesn't work, try this...


----------



## patrickamory

There's also an SRM-Xh for pro earspeakers up there... presumably this was released to drive the near-mythical SR-X Pros?

 Patrick


----------



## milkpowder

Not Stax at all, but this is seriously interesting stuff. I'm not sure you guys have seen this, but if you have already, good for you! Incredible. I think I'll be getting a few spare HE60 headband pads, earpads, EU AC/DC adapter, original box and foam insert!

 HE60 Parts/Spares
HEV70 Parts/Spares
HE90 Parts/Spares
HEV90 Parts/Spares


----------



## akwok

Oh wow, $380 for the HE90 wooden box? 

 I want spare earpads and headband pads but at $400 for a set, it's a bit too much at the moment.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not Stax at all, but this is seriously interesting stuff. I'm not sure you guys have seen this, but if you have already, good for you! Incredible. I think I'll be getting a few spare HE60 headband pads, earpads, EU AC/DC adapter, original box and foam insert!

 HE60 Parts/Spares
HEV70 Parts/Spares
HE90 Parts/Spares
HEV90 Parts/Spares_

 

Whoa. I foresee DIY HE90s if that those are indeed legitimate and in stock. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sort of expensive though, not quite sure.


----------



## Icarium

That's seriously interesting. I might just get a box to have for other headphones ;p


----------



## akwok

I e-mailed them regarding their stock of the HE90 earpads and headpads. We'll see what they say!


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa. I foresee DIY HE90s if that those are indeed legitimate and in stock. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sort of expensive though, not quite sure._

 

Exactly what I thought! They also have the parts for the HD580-Jubilee! DIY'ers will love this
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Bring back the HE60, HE90 and HD580-J!!!

 I don't quite understand some of the descriptions though. What does "Plate" (for HE60) mean?


----------



## mikeg

Picture was somewhat dark, and showed mostly the section that included the HE90 connector. So, it's not really worth sharing IMO. But, pictures should follow from its display at the National Meet, and also after it's forwarded to me.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *akwok* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Share the picture!_


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Picture was somewhat dark, and showed mostly the section that included the HE90 connector. So, it's not really worth sharing IMO. But, pictures should follow from its display at the National Meet, and also after it's forwarded to me._

 

Oh, I saw that picture. Very nice!


----------



## saint.panda

Does an incorrect bias voltage for the HE90 result in a different sound?


----------



## ericj

Well I finished cleaning stuff, cut some new foam blocks for the earcups, and got my ESP.9 reassembled. 

 Also figured out the AC wiring for the E.9 energizer and gave it an appropriately dorky looking black rubber 3 prong plug. 

 Hooked them up to my recently rebuilt Akai 2x50w power amp and a Carver CT-3 preamp. 

 And, they work! Mostly. 

 They seem to distort kinda easily. Especially the left side. I even saw some sparks at one point. 

 I'm pretty sure i cleaned all the detritus out from the drivers. Is this just a "not been used in years and years" issue, or is there some other problem i should look for?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl,
 300 RMS volt swing is kinda low compared to the KGSS, BH or 717/727. The 007t is 340 RMS. Is this on the low side of acceptable for the O2's? I keep hearing that the O2’s need a lot of drive to sound their best._

 

On the low _side_, but I won't go out on a limb and say it's _too_ low for an Omega II without having heard it first. In my opinion slew rate (as in V/ms) is more important than pure power output anyway, although that spec is almost never listed.

 Kevin has stated that he likes like the KGSS design far more with the Omega IIs, but that's just one opinion. I guess we're going to have to wait until folks hear it and give their impressions.

 It'll drive an HE90 easily enough, at least.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surprising that nobody is going for these. Price seems decent with the energizer, and there's been enough said about the non-pro versions to spark my interest, anyway. Unfortunately I'm a strict no-audio-purchase diet at the moment, while I wait for my new Garrard plinth and EMT tonearm to arrive 

 No affiliation with the seller, etc._

 

Price is too high for my tastes, especially considering I've seen SR-Λs go for under $100 within the last year.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ancient Stax amp on Yahoo Auctions Japan

 Apologies if this has been posted before... I missed it if so. SR3 X, or was that the headphone it was to be used with?

 If above link doesn't work, try this..._

 

I've had a lot of people ask me about that. 

 It's basically amp B on page three of the SR-3 manual. 12AT7->12AT7->6FQ7. Not very difficult a DIY project for those with a weekend or two to spare, and should compare fairly favourably to a 313.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's also an SRM-Xh for pro earspeakers up there... presumably this was released to drive the near-mythical SR-X Pros?

 Patrick_

 

The SRM-X, SRM-Xh, SRM-212, and SRM-252 are more or less the same thing. Nothing to get excited about.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not Stax at all, but this is seriously interesting stuff. I'm not sure you guys have seen this, but if you have already, good for you! Incredible. I think I'll be getting a few spare HE60 headband pads, earpads, EU AC/DC adapter, original box and foam insert!

 HE60 Parts/Spares
HEV70 Parts/Spares
HE90 Parts/Spares
HEV90 Parts/Spares_

 

My hat's off to you, sir. That's quite a find.

 Now to decide if I want some backup/modding drivers for my HE60s. Maybe I could hatch a dark scheme to make a HE60/4070 hybrid of death.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the low side, but I won't go out on a limb and say it's too low for an Omega II without having heard it first. In my opinion slew rate (as in V/ms) is more important than pure power output anyway, although that spec is almost never listed._

 

Carl,personally I think you are on to something with this whole slew rate idea and the importance it plays with driving stats.

 The whole Maximum output/RMS/peak to peak voltage numbers just dont seem to tell the whole truth as far as the ability of the amps perfomance.

About Slew Rate


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl,personally I think you are on to something with this whole slew rate idea and the importance it plays with driving stats.

 The whole Maximum output/RMS/peak to peak voltage numbers just dont seem to tell the whole truth as far as the ability of the amps perfomance.

About Slew Rate_

 

It makes sense when you view an electrostatic amplifier as a device designed to swing between 0V and large voltages and back again in time with audio frequencies. Conventional amps do in the order of 25V/ms (corrections welcome on this figure, I'm going from memory), which would mean that the most current they could move over a single 1kHz cycle would be 25V different from the previous cycle.


----------



## Icarium

This has probably been covered and if it has if you could point me to where ;p But I'm curious about the 4070... is there a post/thread that details its history and your impressions of it Carl?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This has probably been covered and if it has if you could point me to where ;p But I'm curious about the 4070... is there a post/thread that details its history and your impressions of it Carl?_

 

Not really, they're scattered over about twenty different threads. If you search for "4070" and it set it to display posts rather than threads you should find a fair few.

 Alternatively you could as me any questions you have regarding them.


----------



## Veniogenesis

What is the general consensus on the SRD-X series of transformers? I tried doing some searches, but found no real answers. Can anyone give insights as to how well it performs and how it would compare to today's SR-001 for example. Thanks you guys!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the general consensus on the SRD-X series of transformers? I tried doing some searches, but found no real answers. Can anyone give insights as to how well it performs and how it would compare to today's SR-001 for example. Thanks you guys!_

 

I think the circuit in the SRD-X is close or identical to the SRM-X, just with the removal of the battery bay, cosmetic changes, and the death to that horrible 1/4" plug rather than RCA inputs happening with the latter.

 If someone wants to flip the lid on their SRD-X and photograph the board we'll be able to confirm this.


 Edit: Actually, I should note that there was three different version of the SRD-X family (SRD-X, SRD-X Pro, SRD-P) and not all of them share the above foibles. The series slowly developed into the SRM-X through a slow evolution rather than some sudden revolution on Stax's part.

 And on that subject, who's up for a wager? Are these transformers power transformers or audio transformers?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price is climbing on these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Or-More-Tube-6...QQcmdZViewItem

 but at $12/tube is still not unreasonable. The short-plate Japanese Raytheon's (I've also seen them as several other brands, including Toshiba, who I suspect may be the actual manufacturer) are as good as I've heard the 007t sound, and I've also heard them in a friend's 006t (just as good there). Long-plate US made Raytheon tubes are not the same, and in my opinion the Japanese tubes are superior. Spritzer has posted biasing instructions for the 006t in this or the old Stax thread, IIRC._

 

Thanks a lot for the tip!
 I ordered some, to try out in my 007t.


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I discussed the dual control issue with Justin, and concluded I'd rather keep it. The front panel looks unbalanced with just the one knob, imo. Doesn't seem to be that big a deal to just turn both controls, to me...
 Can't wait to try out my KGSS!_

 

Ditto on both counts; I cannot wait, and I'm going to keep my KGSS as is.


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Blutack seems to have tamed my SC4070s somewhat. I's interesting how little changes can make big differences in sound._

 

What does the SC stand for?
 What seems to have been tamed?
 And what are the differences?

 Note: SIA if you've posted the answers to these questions elsewhere.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What does the SC stand for?
 What seems to have been tamed?
 And what are the differences?

 Note: SIA if you've posted the answers to these questions elsewhere._

 

"Stax cryogenic" maybe? This is just speculation.

 I like the SC1 over the 404 in conventional form as the former has a clearer, more intense presentation than the pedestrian one of the 404, but that fondness isn't carried over when the drivers are mounted in the 4070 housing for whatever reason. The SC4070 has a sharpness, a glare to it that I've never been able to get rid of. The resolution is comparable to the Omega IIs, but the urge to throw the headphones off my head (similar to a gagging reflex) makes that pairing unworkable.

 A shame really, as I really felt the potential was there. Oh well, you win some you lose some.


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Stax cryogenic" maybe? This is just speculation.

 I like the SC1 over the 404 in conventional form as the former has a clearer, more intense presentation than the pedestrian one of the 404, but that fondness isn't carried over when the drivers are mounted in the 4070 housing for whatever reason. The SC4070 has a sharpness, a glare to it that I've never been able to get rid of. The resolution is comparable to the Omega IIs, but the urge to throw the headphones off my head (similar to a gagging reflex) makes that pairing unworkable.

 A shame really, as I really felt the potential was there. Oh well, you win some you lose some._

 

Interesting; I cannot wait for my little 4070/OII show down!
 ---
 Q: Are the housings made of balsa wood? 
 By the looks/feel, I cannot tell.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Q: Are the housings made of balsa wood? 
 By the looks/feel, I cannot tell._

 

Not sure what it's made out of.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finished cleaning stuff, cut some new foam blocks for the earcups, and got my ESP.9 reassembled. 

 Also figured out the AC wiring for the E.9 energizer and gave it an appropriately dorky looking black rubber 3 prong plug. 

 Hooked them up to my recently rebuilt Akai 2x50w power amp and a Carver CT-3 preamp. 

 And, they work! Mostly. 

 They seem to distort kinda easily. Especially the left side. I even saw some sparks at one point. 

 I'm pretty sure i cleaned all the detritus out from the drivers. Is this just a "not been used in years and years" issue, or is there some other problem i should look for?_

 

This sound like a bad connection problem. Did clean and resolder the PCB's in the cups? These get tarnished easily. There could also be some tiny dirt inside the drivers that needs to be burned off. This could also be a bias issue so let the phones sit for a few hours playing music and see what happens.


----------



## niels

Still have some questions about srm-006t.
 I do not have a manual for this unit, any ideas ? Copies etc...
 Regarding the tube brand, any standards for tubes from factory ? Has this been the same tubes always or ? 
 I bought two from the link earlier, but also saw some Tung Sol and Sylvania for sale....
 Do you normally leave the unit powered up always ? I dont use it every day...
 Any experience with power cords ? This unit is said to be cord sensitive, I cant say I noticed this. Changed the original for an Isotek but cant tell a difference...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the tube brand, any standards for tubes from factory ? Has this been the same tubes always or ?_

 

Stax have used new production Elektronska Industrija tubes for years now. They make alright tubes, but their 6CG7 appears to sound rather boring, so isn't really the ticket for the 006t.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax have used new production Elektronska Industrija tubes for years now. They make alright tubes, but their 6CG7 appears to sound rather boring, so isn't really the ticket for the 006t._

 

Mine seem to have "GE" markings?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This sound like a bad connection problem. Did clean and resolder the PCB's in the cups? These get tarnished easily. There could also be some tiny dirt inside the drivers that needs to be burned off. This could also be a bias issue so let the phones sit for a few hours playing music and see what happens._

 

Well, this morning they sound much worse. I left them plugged into the energizer overnight, but the energizer was switched off. 

 I'd carefully cleaned the boards but i hadn't gone to the extent of removing oxide from the traces or reflowing the solder. I guess i can do that, and re-check all the little jumper wire connections.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, this morning they sound much worse. I left them plugged into the energizer overnight, but the energizer was switched off. 

 I'd carefully cleaned the boards but i hadn't gone to the extent of removing oxide from the traces or reflowing the solder. I guess i can do that, and re-check all the little jumper wire connections._

 

I would do that and if that doesn't work they could have some serious and probably terminal issues. If you have any other transformer box, modify the phones so you can drive the drivers directly and remove the E.9 from the equation.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa. I foresee DIY HE90s if that those are indeed legitimate and in stock. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sort of expensive though, not quite sure._

 

The price of the HE60 transducers doesn't seem that horrendous. Could be interesting for experimentation for sure.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price of the HE60 transducers doesn't seem that horrendous. Could be interesting for experimentation for sure._

 

A closed-back HE60 woodie for portible listening would be legendary. I'm seriously considering throwing the money despite not really having any to spare.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would do that and if that doesn't work they could have some serious and probably terminal issues. If you have any other transformer box, modify the phones so you can drive the drivers directly and remove the E.9 from the equation._

 

Well, I found that i hadn't torqued down the nuts on the circuit boards well enough in either cup, and that the thicker yellow wire in the left cup - which is the shield from the cable, whatever that is - had been pinched pretty hard against the chromed ring of the earcup, perhaps hard enough to short out. 

 And now they're roughly back where they were last night. 

 The E.9 is my only electrostat transformer box. 

 Could you expand on these "serious and probably terminal" issues?


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's basically amp B on page three of the SR-3 manual. 12AT7->12AT7->6FQ7._

 

Thanks, Carl, for all the info - you're a veritable geyser. Am I correct that you read Japanese as well?? In any event, thanks again.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A closed-back HE60 woodie for portible listening would be legendary. I'm seriously considering throwing the money despite not really having any to spare._

 

It would be very surprising if they indeed have these in stock - likely they got a list from the Australian Sennheiser distributor and just uploaded it to their site.

 Worth a try though.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Carl, for all the info - you're a veritable geyser. Am I correct that you read Japanese as well?? In any event, thanks again._

 

"Read" is probably too grand a way of putting it. I can kludge my way through it anyway.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be very surprising if they indeed have these in stock - likely they got a list from the Australian Sennheiser distributor and just uploaded it to their site.

 Worth a try though._

 

Quite likely, but as long as they can get the parts, that's all that matters, right?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quite likely, but as long as they can get the parts, that's all that matters, right?_

 

I remember someone reporting on a comment from Sennheiser that they only provide HE60 driver unit replacements in exchange for damaged ones.

 Anyway, please let us know how it goes.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I remember someone reporting on a comment from Sennheiser that they only provide HE60 driver unit replacements in exchange for damaged ones.

 Anyway, please let us know how it goes._

 

I wonder if photoshopping a picture of my HE60s would work.....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I found that i hadn't torqued down the nuts on the circuit boards well enough in either cup, and that the thicker yellow wire in the left cup - which is the shield from the cable, whatever that is - had been pinched pretty hard against the chromed ring of the earcup, perhaps hard enough to short out. 

 And now they're roughly back where they were last night. 

 The E.9 is my only electrostat transformer box. 

 Could you expand on these "serious and probably terminal" issues?_

 

You have to tighten the nuts pretty hard and make sure that the insulator rings are in place underneath otherwise the drivers will short out. 

 The terminal issues could be that the drivers are shorted out internally or that the diaphragm is torn. Either way there is no easy fix because they are glued together. 

 What does this distortion sound like? Is it constant or does it change with volume?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if photoshopping a picture of my HE60s would work....._

 

It could but I think they want to replace the drivers for you. I really want a spare set of He90 drivers so I can rip them apart and fit thicker spacers.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really want a spare set of He90 drivers so I can rip them apart and fit thicker spacers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That would be awesome. Imagine how they'd sound with a ~700-800v bias.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be awesome. Imagine how they'd sound with a ~700-800v bias._

 

A higher bias voltage brings a boatload of troubles though 1000v is easy to pull off. Insulation becomes a bigger issue here and it hurts more when the driver zapps you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would also like to increase the space only a little bit and use the 580v bias. Sennheiser used only 0.3-0.4mm spacers instead of Stax's 0.5mm and this combined with a bad choice in coating material can lead to some interesting twists. The electrostatic force decreases by the square of the distance so the gap is a big factor.


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The design looks quite vintage. The PS caps are massive too. "I like!" (Borat impression)_

 

Here are some pics. Sorry about my poor photo skills. I can make higher res pics available if anyone wants.




































 Happy Listening!


----------



## webbie64

Now you're talking, Carl. I'd be into that - although getting a good enough portable source and portable amp to drive it would be the next challenge! (Personally, although I like the SRD-X Pro, it's still a step behind the sound quality of the home amps when driving the HE60s).
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A closed-back HE60 woodie for portible listening would be legendary. I'm seriously considering throwing the money despite not really having any to spare._


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And on that subject, who's up for a wager? Are these transformers power transformers or audio transformers?_

 

I'm guessing they're for the bias supply?


----------



## _LN_

Could someone perhaps supply me with one or more good quality photos of the rear (cable side) of the female connector on the older round Stax extension cords? The thing is, I bought such an extension cord through eBay last year, and the female connector arrived broken, but the seller was unwilling to help. So now I'm trying to figure out the proper way to fix it.
 BTW, there doesn't seem to be any permanent damage, it's just that the glue (?) securing the "barrel" of the connector to the flat end part with the holes in it, appears to have failed. There is some sort of thick metal "ring" clamped onto the cable, close to the end of the cable, which looks like it's supposed to be some kind of strain relief. But the hole in the cable side of the "barrel" appears to be too large to be able to hold the metal strain relief ring in place.
 I temporarily fixed the connector using insulating tape, after it arrived, but that tape is coming loose again, so I'm looking for a more permanent fix...


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have to tighten the nuts pretty hard and make sure that the insulator rings are in place underneath otherwise the drivers will short out._

 

Insulator rings? Under the PCBs in my ESP9's i have nylon spacers, and under them are brass washers. 

 The brass washers could probably stand to be cleaned up. Maybe I'll pass them over some 1500-grit sandpaper and grease them up with silicone so they won't corrode again. 

 I'm increasingly concerned about the fact that my E.9 has been mucked around with. There are a few wire junctions insulated with red tape, and there are two resistors standing on end that look like they were soldered in where maybe two of the old koss jumper wire posts were. 

 So, I am considering shelving the project until I can find an E.9 schematic or another transformer box. 

  Quote:


 What does this distortion sound like? Is it constant or does it change with volume? 
 

Increases with volume, loud transients sound awful, and seems to get worse the longer i listen in any given session. 

 Oddly, the right-side driver seems to get quieter along with the increase in distortion.


----------



## terance

where do you guys stand on the stax 202 vs srm001 system?

 i love the portability of the srm/mk2 system, but i primarily use it at home so I was wondering if maybe it's better to upgrade to the stax 202 system?

 i'd probably keep the mk2 for travel i can't see myself selling em

 thanks guys. . STAX FO LYFE


----------



## webbie64

My take is that if you enjoy the SR-001 MkII headphone and primarilly use it at home then consider using an [AK]Zip adapter out of a Stax SRDX-Pro. The amplifier upgrade really shows you what the SR-001 is capable of. Full size Stax are always a further upgrade option but if the headphones deliver for you with a different amp it saves having multiple headphones/earspeakers hanging around.


----------



## webbie64

I'll make and send you photos if you really need them - PM me if you do - but the key component you require is a fine (ie ultra-small) jeweller's screw. The screw fits into the matching holes you have identified, joining the barrel and the end. This joining holds the metal strain relief into place. The native Stax screw has a 'hex key' end but any jeweller's screw that suits the holes will do the job.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone perhaps supply me with one or more good quality photos of the rear (cable side) of the female connector on the older round Stax extension cords? The thing is, I bought such an extension cord through eBay last year, and the female connector arrived broken, but the seller was unwilling to help. So now I'm trying to figure out the proper way to fix it.
 BTW, there doesn't seem to be any permanent damage, it's just that the glue (?) securing the "barrel" of the connector to the flat end part with the holes in it, appears to have failed. There is some sort of thick metal "ring" clamped onto the cable, close to the end of the cable, which looks like it's supposed to be some kind of strain relief. But the hole in the cable side of the "barrel" appears to be too large to be able to hold the metal strain relief ring in place.
 I temporarily fixed the connector using insulating tape, after it arrived, but that tape is coming loose again, so I'm looking for a more permanent fix..._


----------



## terance

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My take is that if you enjoy the SR-001 MkII headphone and primarilly use it at home then consider using an [AK]Zip adapter out of a Stax SRDX-Pro. The amplifier upgrade really shows you what the SR-001 is capable of. Full size Stax are always a further upgrade option but if the headphones deliver for you with a different amp it saves having multiple headphones/earspeakers hanging around._

 


 comfort is my major issue

 even thought i've been listening to the srm/mkII for a few months now i just can't get comfortable with them. 

 what exactly does this adapter do?


----------



## webbie64

The SR-001 to Stax 5 Pin Pro adapter (http://apuresound.com/images/cables/h001.html) allows you to plug the SR-001 into a standard Stax Pro socket. I find this provides a higher quality than the standard SRM-001 (which is already better when you drive it with an external 4.5Volt battery supply over its internal 3V supply).

 I empathise with your comfort issue - I find it takes a little time to adjust to the IEM approach, both Stax and others (I also use UM2s). For some it's just a matter of finding the right Stax tips (some also find different tips work with their left and right ears so don't just try 'matching' pairs) whilst for others it just never gets comfortable enough.

 Rememebr that although the 202 and other 'Lambda' style ear speakers are more comfortable over the ears, they can generate a warmth/discomfort for some aftee being worn for a period of time. However, if comfort is the issue I'd suggest going to a local dealer and trying them for a period of time with a range of your best known tracks - even better if you are permitted to take and use your own source whilst trialling them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_comfort is my major issue

 even thought i've been listening to the srm/mkII for a few months now i just can't get comfortable with them. 

 what exactly does this adapter do?_


----------



## terance

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-001 to Stax 5 Pin Pro adapter (http://apuresound.com/images/cables/h001.html) allows you to plug the SR-001 into a standard Stax Pro socket. I find this provides a higher quality than the standard SRM-001 (which is already better when you drive it with an external 4.5Volt battery supply over its internal 3V supply).

 I empathise with your comfort issue - I find it takes a little time to adjust to the IEM approach, both Stax and others (I also use UM2s). For some it's just a matter of finding the right Stax tips (some also find different tips work with their left and right ears so don't just try 'matching' pairs) whilst for others it just never gets comfortable enough.

 Rememebr that although the 202 and other 'Lambda' style ear speakers are more comfortable over the ears, they can generate a warmth/discomfort for some aftee being worn for a period of time. However, if comfort is the issue I'd suggest going to a local dealer and trying them for a period of time with a range of your best known tracks - even better if you are permitted to take and use your own source whilst trialling them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?

 is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII? ** just realized that the stax 202 system isn't a "system" it is just the earphones for 279 =/ **

 thanks for the help


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?_

 

Remove the adaptor.

  Quote:


 is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII? 
 

All Stax headphones with the 5-pin plug are completely intercompatible.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Insulator rings? Under the PCBs in my ESP9's i have nylon spacers, and under them are brass washers. 

 The brass washers could probably stand to be cleaned up. Maybe I'll pass them over some 1500-grit sandpaper and grease them up with silicone so they won't corrode again. 

 I'm increasingly concerned about the fact that my E.9 has been mucked around with. There are a few wire junctions insulated with red tape, and there are two resistors standing on end that look like they were soldered in where maybe two of the old koss jumper wire posts were. 

 So, I am considering shelving the project until I can find an E.9 schematic or another transformer box._

 

There are insulator rings that go under the PCB to insulate the signal pins. You should also check the tiny wires that lead into the drivers to see if they are in contact with anything. The signal goes through the inner bolts so if they are tarnished that could be interfering. 

 The ESP9 is a pain to troubleshoot even if it's untampered with so I feel your pain. I would pick up a normal bias Stax adapter from ebay and convert the phones to the Stax standard. You could even put a switch in each cup so you can change them back in an instant. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Increases with volume, loud transients sound awful, and seems to get worse the longer i listen in any given session. 

 Oddly, the right-side driver seems to get quieter along with the increase in distortion._

 

It sounds like a bias problem. There might be a short somewhere that causes the membrane to behave like this.


----------



## webbie64

The SR-001s still plug into your SRM-001 (without the adapter) but when you use the adapter you can then plug them into any Stax 'Pro' outlet.

 The drivers for the SR-001 are much smaller than any of the other drivers for the larger Earspeakers. However one distinct advantage of the smaller SR-001 drivers is that they don't generate as much external noise for those around your listening environment (e.g. my wife can be asleep alongside whilst I'm listening - something the larger drivers would make too much noise for).
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *terance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unfortunatly if i were to get that adapter it would not plug into my srm-001 amp would it?

 is the 202 system that is over the ear the same drivers as the srm/mkII? ** just realized that the stax 202 system isn't a "system" it is just the earphones for 279 =/ **

 thanks for the help_


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are insulator rings that go under the PCB to insulate the signal pins._

 

Hmm, i don't believe there was anything like that in my ESP9's. If they were tampered with, it was a long time ago, before the damping foam oxidized. I'll take some more pictures. 

 The only insulators in my esp9 earcups are more post-like than ring-like. 

  Quote:


 You should also check the tiny wires that lead into the drivers to see if they are in contact with anything. The signal goes through the inner bolts so if they are tarnished that could be interfering. 
 

So you're saying i should take the next step of disassembly, where i take apart the plastic sandwich that holds the driver? Otherwise I'm not sure where these tiny wires are. 

 I'm reluctant to do that, it sorta looks like it's integral to the driver, what with the edge of the membrane visible around the diameter.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ESP9 is a pain to troubleshoot even if it's untampered with so I feel your pain. I would pick up a normal bias Stax adapter from ebay and convert the phones to the Stax standard. You could even put a switch in each cup so you can change them back in an instant. _

 

I thought the ESP-9's had a 600 volt bias.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, i don't believe there was anything like that in my ESP9's. If they were tampered with, it was a long time ago, before the damping foam oxidized. I'll take some more pictures. 

 The only insulators in my esp9 earcups are more post-like than ring-like._

 

Any and all picture would be very helpful to troubleshoot this. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you're saying i should take the next step of disassembly, where i take apart the plastic sandwich that holds the driver? Otherwise I'm not sure where these tiny wires are. 

 I'm reluctant to do that, it sorta looks like it's integral to the driver, what with the edge of the membrane visible around the diameter._

 

You can take a peek inside the driver and then clamp it together again and the glue should hold. It did so with my ESP6 and I did it numerous times to find the right spot for the replacement drivers. You could also measure the driver to see if there are any shorts inside it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought the ESP-9's had a 600 volt bias._

 

I've not been able to measure it yet but I have heard 450v from a number of sources. I debating whether or not I should sacrifice my set and connect it to a Pro bias terminal.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any and all picture would be very helpful to troubleshoot this._

 

There are several pictures in some previous posts, but perhaps they don't show enough detail. I'll try to do some macro shots w/ the drivers assembled w/o damping material tonight. 

  Quote:


 You can take a peek inside the driver and then clamp it together again and the glue should hold. It did so with my ESP6 and I did it numerous times to find the right spot for the replacement drivers. You could also measure the driver to see if there are any shorts inside it. 
 

Yeah, that should be fairly easy. I'm guessing there shouldn't be an electrical connection between any two posts, right? 

 Does anybody know or have a simple diagram of the correct hookup of the esp9? If they have been tampered with, maybe the boards in the earcups aren't wired properly. I've been very careful to reassemble exactly the way they are in my pictures from the initial disassembly, but if that isn't correct . . .

 Edit: Oh, and 600-volt bias sounds unlikely to me. The 0.1uf cap in the left earcup is probably for bias voltage, and it's only rated at 500 volts. 

 I'd offer to measure, but my set is highly questionable. 

 The ESP-950 is said to have 600v bias, which is touted to be the highest bias voltage out there. Couldn't possibly be true unless they are only referring to current production. Aren't some of the jecklins 900v?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are several pictures in some previous posts, but perhaps they don't show enough detail. I'll try to do some macro shots w/ the drivers assembled w/o damping material tonight._

 

That would be great. Then I can compare them to my fully functional pair and see if something is out of place. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that should be fairly easy. I'm guessing there shouldn't be an electrical connection between any two posts, right? 

 Does anybody know or have a simple diagram of the correct hookup of the esp9? If they have been tampered with, maybe the boards in the earcups aren't wired properly. I've been very careful to reassemble exactly the way they are in my pictures from the initial disassembly, but if that isn't correct . . .

 Edit: Oh, and 600-volt bias sounds unlikely to me. The 0.1uf cap in the left earcup is probably for bias voltage, and it's only rated at 500 volts. 

 I'd offer to measure, but my set is highly questionable. 

 The ESP-950 is said to have 600v bias, which is touted to be the highest bias voltage out there. Couldn't possibly be true unless they are only referring to current production. Aren't some of the jecklins 900v?_

 

There should be no connection inside the driver either from stator-stator or diaphragm-stator. A former owner could have put them together incorrectly and you are suffering from that. Those push connectors Koss used come off with way too little force for my liking. 

 Koss was always experimenting with crazy ideas but they were in turn very often barking up the wrong tree. Like the 5 stator - 2 diaphragm system they used in their speakers. Great idea in theory but it creates more problems then it solves. Same goes for the ESP6. Totally self contained system is a good idea but the resulting 800gr headphones aren't. 

 The Jecklins are around 1kv but they used speaker (RTR) midrange/tweeters as drivers so the extra bias wasn't really part of the design.


----------



## Tachikoma

Pulled the trigger on the bigwarehouse spares stock, for a HE60.

 *hopes this doesn't turn out to be some huge scam site - this is by far the largest purchase I have ever made*


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pulled the trigger on the bigwarehouse spares stock, for a HE60.

 *hopes this doesn't turn out to be some huge scam site - this is by far the largest purchase I have ever made*_

 


 They sell HE60s by themselves? O_o


----------



## Icarium

Really? Damn link to that if they sell entire whole headphones.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *akwok* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sell HE60s by themselves? O_o_

 

they sell all of the parts needed to build one, I think.


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they sell all of the parts needed to build one, I think._

 

Interesting. Please post a thread with pics of the assembly process when the parts arrive!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Pulled the trigger on the bigwarehouse spares stock, for a HE60.

 

they sell all of the parts needed to build one, I think._

 

Heathkit Sennheiser HE60's. Now we are talking... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Make sure to keep us posted on how this order goes on. Cause I am sure there other ones who want a pair as well.


----------



## akwok

I emailed them about the HE90 earpads and headband pads a few days ago but no response.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've not been able to measure it yet but I have heard 450v from a number of sources. I debating whether or not I should sacrifice my set and connect it to a Pro bias terminal._

 

I just measured 470 volts (117 vac line voltage) on my E/9.


----------



## niels

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *akwok* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I emailed them about the HE90 earpads and headband pads a few days ago but no response. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe they are closed for easter like the rest of the world.


----------



## Tachikoma

I doubt that I'll be doing the actual assembly process myself, having no soldering skills to speak of...


----------



## Veniogenesis

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=234630

 Is it just me, or does this sound oddly familiar?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt that I'll be doing the actual assembly process myself, having no soldering skills to speak of..._

 

Aside from soldering the cable to the drivers there's bugger all too them. You'll just need to buy a really fine gauge screwdriver (or was it an allen key?) to assemble them, you might have trouble finding a suitable one in a store.

 Now you just need to make a DIY HEV90 to run it.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=234630

 Is it just me, or does this sound oddly familiar?_

 

Yes, it certainly got that reaction from me. Julian and Michael are both legitimate though. Maybe the folks over in Europe just really like their watches...?



 Just won me a Gamma Pro. 150 euros.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just measured 470 volts (117 vac line voltage) on my E/9._

 

Where did you measure? I'm about to open mine up but I'm running them in for awhile before. Good news that the hum in my E.9 seems to be gone.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just won me a Gamma Pro. 150 euros._

 

Hehe nice. Another rare addition to the collection! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just won me a Gamma Pro. 150 euros._

 

Damn! Where do you find these deals?
 I have been watching eBay (UK, DE, AT, NL and US) for a Gamma Pro for months, and found only one who ship to my location. That seller did not accept PayPal.

 Congratulation though!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you measure? I'm about to open mine up but I'm running them in for awhile before. Good news that the hum in my E.9 seems to be gone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I measured from Point 14 on the circuit board (Yellow CT wire on audio trans) and Red wire on output connector. I used a Fluke 1000:1 high voltage probe feeding my Fluke meter.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pulled the trigger on the bigwarehouse spares stock, for a HE60.

 *hopes this doesn't turn out to be some huge scam site - this is by far the largest purchase I have ever made*_

 

I'll definitely be interested to see how that goes. I'm tempted to do the same when I've got the spare cash.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just won me a Gamma Pro. 150 euros._

 

Nice! Congrats on the find.


----------



## edstrelow

I just received a SRXMk3 from Ebay Germany, along with an SRDX portable amp, the type that plugs into a headphone socket. The phones were in very good condition, except for the earpads which were foam, rather than leatherette. I took them off right away and stuck Stax replacement pads on. These look much better but I am not sure if they help the sound and they are less comfortable than the foam. Anyway the foam is shredded so there is not much to do about it.

 I need to wait until I get home to make some decent comparisons on the SRA12S amp, because right now the Mk3 is running off the SRDX through the phone jack of an old Denon cd player. By comparison, the Lambda Nova Pro and Sigma Pro are running off an SRM3 fed from a Musical Fidelity X24K DAC. Still the MK3's sounded pretty good right out of the box. A very "airy" sound, somewhat lacking in deep bass and with a bit of harshness in the middle. However they are not really being fed from a good source.

 One problem with the SRDX is that the *VOLUME POT IS VERY NOISEY WHEN MOVED. CAN YOU GET RID OF THE NOISE BY FLOODING IT WITH CONTACT CLEANER SPRAY?*


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One problem with the SRDX is that the *VOLUME POT IS VERY NOISEY WHEN MOVED. CAN YOU GET RID OF THE NOISE BY FLOODING IT WITH CONTACT CLEANER SPRAY?*_

 

I use CaiLube MCL. Most of the time that will completely get rid of pot noise. I can't remember it not working.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received a SRXMk3 from Ebay Germany, along with an SRDX portable amp, the type that plugs into a headphone socket. The phones were in very good condition, except for the earpads which were foam, rather than leatherette. I took them off right away and stuck Stax replacement pads on. These look much better but I am not sure if they help the sound and they are less comfortable than the foam. Anyway the foam is shredded so there is not much to do about it.

 I need to wait until I get home to make some decent comparisons on the SRA12S amp, because right now the Mk3 is running off the SRDX through the phone jack of an old Denon cd player. By comparison, the Lambda Nova Pro and Sigma Pro are running off an SRM3 fed from a Musical Fidelity X24K DAC. Still the MK3's sounded pretty good right out of the box. A very "airy" sound, somewhat lacking in deep bass and with a bit of harshness in the middle. However they are not really being fed from a good source.[/B]_

 

Yay! Another SR-X MKIII owner. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Coincidentally, I'm also waiting for a SRM-3 to come. As well as a Sigma Pro. Haha. Do you personally think the SRM-3 is enough to power the Sigma Pro for enjoyment? (I'm guessing the Sigma Pro need more, but is the SRM-3 at least decent?)

 Cheers!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn! Where do you find these deals?
 I have been watching eBay (UK, DE, AT, NL and US) for a Gamma Pro for months, and found only one who ship to my location. That seller did not accept PayPal.

 Congratulation though! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ebay.it in this case.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay! Another SR-X MKIII owner. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Coincidentally, I'm also waiting for a SRM-3 to come. As well as a Sigma Pro. Haha. Do you personally think the SRM-3 is enough to power the Sigma Pro for enjoyment? (I'm guessing the Sigma Pro need more, but is the SRM-3 at least decent?)

 Cheers!_

 

I have been running mine for years of an SRM3 with good results. More power will help, I also have a 717 for running a Sigma/404. There are some reports here that a good power amp with a transformer may be good.

 With the SRM3 I use a $60.00 upgraded power cable, and plug it directly into the wall rather than going through a power strip. Progold or Silclear (this is the best but is messy and doesn't clean surfaces like progold) on all contacts, eg. power plugs, and ic's will effectively boost the power of the amp.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been running mine for years of an SRM3 with good results. More power will help, I also have a 717 for running a Sigma/404. There are some reports here that a good power amp with a transformer may be good.

 With the SRM3 I use a $60.00 upgraded power cable, and plug it directly into the wall rather than going through a power strip. Progold or Silclear (this is the best but is messy and doesn't clean surfaces like progold) on all contacts, eg. power plugs, and ic's will effectively boost the power of the amp._

 

Ah, I remembered you saying something regarding the plugging directly into the wall and contact solution earlier somewhere. So this makes a notable difference? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Might have to do it then.


----------



## derekbmn

These are what I use for all of my headphone equip.And work GREAT for us stat users with multiple setups. They are built by Wiremold and endorced by Naim. The recomended set up is to plug the higher current using devices (amps) first nearest the cord on down with sources last. They have no noisy circut protection or power robbing devices of any sort.They work VERY nicely.
Naim Wiremold


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be great. Then I can compare them to my fully functional pair and see if something is out of place._

 

OK, left earcup. A flashback from the first night i had these, here's how it was wired when i first opened the cups:






 And here's a closeup of how things are attached, with the frame and damping materials removed: 





 This is how i found it assembled, and have reassembled each time. I haven't ever removed the metal standoff. 

 As per usual, click image to see the gigantic version. 

 The right earcup differs firstly in that there's less stuff on the board, and secondly in that all four standoffs are nylon where the left has one metal standoff. 

 It may be that some mook bought these in the 80's, mucked around with them, failed to do whatever it was he was trying to do with them, and gave up. Comparisons to working units would be very helpful. 

  Quote:


 There should be no connection inside the driver either from stator-stator or diaphragm-stator. A former owner could have put them together incorrectly and you are suffering from that. Those push connectors Koss used come off with way too little force for my liking. 
 

With the board removed there is no connection (infinite resistance) between any two posts.

 I read 0.0 ohms resistance from the back stator to it's post, and 0.15 ohms between the front stator and it's post. That's probably not optimal, but i doubt it's the root cause of my major issues.


----------



## The Chap

How do I get the earpad back on can anyone help?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I measured from Point 14 on the circuit board (Yellow CT wire on audio trans) and Red wire on output connector. I used a Fluke 1000:1 high voltage probe feeding my Fluke meter.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My E.9 is completely different, it doesn't even have the CT wires. I'll try and make some sense of this later. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Chap* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 How do I get the earpad back on can anyone help?_

 

It isn't easy. First you fit the inner metal ring to the earpad (the inner flap) and then you put the pad on the headphone and with some force pull the outer flap into it's groove. When you have done so rotate the pad back and forth so it sits correctly. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, left earcup. A flashback from the first night i had these, here's how it was wired when i first opened the cups:






 And here's a closeup of how things are attached, with the frame and damping materials removed: 





 This is how i found it assembled, and have reassembled each time. I haven't ever removed the metal standoff. 

 As per usual, click image to see the gigantic version. 

 The right earcup differs firstly in that there's less stuff on the board, and secondly in that all four standoffs are nylon where the left has one metal standoff. 

 It may be that some mook bought these in the 80's, mucked around with them, failed to do whatever it was he was trying to do with them, and gave up. Comparisons to working units would be very helpful. 



 With the board removed there is no connection (infinite resistance) between any two posts.

 I read 0.0 ohms resistance from the back stator to it's post, and 0.15 ohms between the front stator and it's post. That's probably not optimal, but i doubt it's the root cause of my major issues._

 

All of the wiring is identical to mine but there is a extra cap and resistor in your unit to the left of the two black wires in the first picture. The nylon washers are the insulators I was talking about but they are made out of some bakelite stuff in my set. The lone metal standoff isn't connected to anything so it isn't a problem. 

 The drivers measure fine but have you cleared off the oxide on the PCB's? It does conduct electricity so it could be causing some problems.


----------



## Duggeh

Carefully swivel it back into place, you will need a pallette knife or similar to get the leather back into the gap. They are an absolute bugger.


----------



## The Chap

Thanks Spritzer

 Managed to get the pad back on.

 Regards
 T.C


----------



## The Chap

Thanks also Duggeh

 Managed to do it without a pallette knife though.


 I took the bar out of the main body put it in the the inner ring of the pad. Then I pealed the outer part of the pad back placed the bar back and incrementally slotted the outerv ring of the pad it into its designated home.

 Scary and difficult but everything seems OK.


 Regards

 T.C


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Chap* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Spritzer

 Managed to get the pad back on.

 Regards
 T.C_

 

Glad to hear it. It's scary the first time but easy after that.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


 All of the wiring is identical to mine but there is a extra cap and resistor in your unit to the left of the two black wires in the first picture. The nylon washers are the insulators I was talking about but they are made out of some bakelite stuff in my set. The lone metal standoff isn't connected to anything so it isn't a problem. 
 

Oddly enough there's a solder pad on the pcb where the metal standoff is. I don't doubt that there's nothing on the other side of it, though. 

  Quote:


 The drivers measure fine but have you cleared off the oxide on the PCB's? It does conduct electricity so it could be causing some problems. 
 

Yeah, it's quite clean now. Cleaner than most pennies at least. I'll go over the traces with an eraser and then some contact cleaner just for spit shine. 

 Edit: I also swabbed all joints with kester RMA flux, reflowed all the solder, and in some cases sucked off excess solder, and in some of those cases applied a little new solder. The board then had a nice long bath in denatured ethyl alcohol. 

 I figure I'll open up this driver and re-do the wire for the front stator anyway. The brass rivet that holds on the tab for the post is corroded, so the wire is probably in sorry shape. I figure I'll run a filament of bare SPC wire from the stator and up through the rivet, and then solder and trim at the rivet after reassembly. With good quality flux i shouldn't have to apply much heat to get a good joint.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oddly enough there's a solder pad on the pcb where the metal standoff is. I don't doubt that there's nothing on the other side of it, though._

 

That's something else that that isn't present in my set. What the hell were Koss thinking with all these revisions. I have two sets of Stax New SR-3 that are from the same era and while they were made some years apart the only difference is that the older unit was harder to open. Stax had filled one of the screw holes with epoxy so users couldn't open up their phones but they dropped this later. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, it's quite clean now. Cleaner than most pennies at least. I'll go over the traces with an eraser and then some contact cleaner just for spit shine. 

 Edit: I also swabbed all joints with kester RMA flux, reflowed all the solder, and in some cases sucked off excess solder, and in some of those cases applied a little new solder. The board then had a nice long bath in denatured ethyl alcohol. 

 I figure I'll open up this driver and re-do the wire for the front stator anyway. The brass rivet that holds on the tab for the post is corroded, so the wire is probably in sorry shape. I figure I'll run a filament of bare SPC wire from the stator and up through the rivet, and then solder and trim at the rivet after reassembly. With good quality flux i shouldn't have to apply much heat to get a good joint._

 

If some of the caps or resistors aren't fried it must be the adapter that is acting up.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I have just received the Sigma Pro and have discovered that it just simply falls of my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My head is shaped strangely... Haha

 Have yet to listen to them though. Still waiting for driver unit.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just received the Sigma Pro and have discovered that it just simply falls of my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My head is shaped strangely... Haha

 Have yet to listen to them though. Still waiting for driver unit._

 

There is no clamp force at all so no headbanging. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They will sound a bit odd at first but you get used to it and they can be stunning with some tracks.


----------



## Duggeh

Given the driver orientation, does the Sigma work well with binaural material?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


 If some of the caps or resistors aren't fried it must be the adapter that is acting up. 
 

I have a capacitance meter (or three) so i can test the caps. 

 I also wonder if the foam i used is conductive at high voltages - i did steal it from the packing material for a replacement laptop dvd drive. I need to stop by the fabric store anyway, I'll get new foam.

 Some have said that the insulation in the ESP9 cables is prone to getting stiff and cracking over the years, so, that could be an issue i guess. 

 I'll try and measure the bias voltage, too.


----------



## spritzer

It did a great job even though I haven't spent much time listening to binaural recordings. It isn't really the driver position that gives the Sigma its unique sound but rather the housing and how it affects the drivers. 

 I will also be getting a normal SR-Sigma soon to compare...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a capacitance meter (or three) so i can test the caps. 

 I also wonder if the foam i used is conductive at high voltages - i did steal it from the packing material for a replacement laptop dvd drive. I need to stop by the fabric store anyway, I'll get new foam.

 Some have said that the insulation in the ESP9 cables is prone to getting stiff and cracking over the years, so, that could be an issue i guess. 

 I'll try and measure the bias voltage, too._

 

The foam could be conductive at HV but I haven't had any troubles. I usually use car washing sponges as a foam supply because it is very open and not very dense. 

 The cables in these old phones all become stiff with age but I haven't had one crack yet. I would check it out to give the headphones a final clean bill of health.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Given the driver orientation, does the Sigma work well with binaural material?_

 

I would say no. Neither are they any good with Dolby Headphone. I have been very happy with the 404 with Dolby however.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are what I use for all of my headphone equip.And work GREAT for us stat users with multiple setups. They are built by Wiremold and endorced by Naim. The recomended set up is to plug the higher current using devices (amps) first nearest the cord on down with sources last. They have no noisy circut protection or power robbing devices of any sort.They work VERY nicely.
Naim Wiremold_

 

Agreed. I use these and they are very good.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use CaiLube MCL. Most of the time that will completely get rid of pot noise. I can't remember it not working._

 

I will try this. Thanks.

 I spent some time last night making comparisons betwen the SRX3 and other Stax. It's a pretty good set of phones, the main weakness is a lack of bass at the very bottom. It seems to have some good bass, but it just shuts downbelow a certain some point compared to the Lambda Nova and 404. 

 Also the SRDX amp is better than I would have expected, given the it hooks up through a headphone jack. I compared it with the Stax SRA12S preamp/headphone amp and initially there wasn't that much difference. As the amp warmed up, the differences were more evident and the the SRA12S sounded cleaner and more powerful.

 Comparing the SRX3 with the 404 run from an SRM3, again as the systems warmed up, the differences became more pronounced. The 404 has a good deal more bass, both midbass and at the bottom. Also the treble is much sweeter. Eg. sopranos and boy sopranos sounded sweeter on the 404. The SRX3 sounded somewhat harsh and sources sounded closer, probably because of more midrange in the SRX3.

 I think the SRX3 has a fairly flat response from upper bass to lower treble and that may be part of the reason for its popularity as a monitoring phone. It is quite revealing over those frequencies.

 However, it does not sound as good as the 404 on most kinds of material, but it is still very nice. 

 I notice that those who tout the SRX3 over other Lambdas are mostly using transformers and power amps. I had such a set-up many years ago and I don't recall it being that great but like many things , the exact equipment, cables etc. can make a big difference. If the tranformers are that good then I would want to hear the 404 run that way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will try this. Thanks.

 I spent some time last night making comparisons betwen the SRX3 and other Stax. It's a pretty good set of phones, the main weakness is a lack of bass at the very bottom. It seems to have some good bass, but it just shuts downbelow a certain some point compared to the Lambda Nova and 404. 

 Also the SRDX amp is better than I would have expected, given the it hooks up through a headphone jack. I compared it with the Stax SRA12S preamp/headphone amp and initially there wasn't that much difference. As the amp warmed up, the differences were more evident and the the SRA12S sounded cleaner and more powerful.

 Comparing the SRX3 with the 404 run from an SRM3, again as the systems warmed up, the differences became more pronounced. The 404 has a good deal more bass, both midbass and at the bottom. Also the treble is much sweeter. Eg. sopranos and boy sopranos sounded sweeter on the 404. The SRX3 sounded somewhat harsh and sources sounded closer, probably because of more midrange in the SRX3.

 I think the SRX3 has a fairly flat response from upper bass to lower treble and that may be part of the reason for its popularity as a monitoring phone. It is quite revealing over those frequencies.

 However, it does not sound as good as the 404 on most kinds of material, but it is still very nice. 

 I notice that those who tout the SRX3 over other Lambdas are mostly using transformers and power amps. I had such a set-up many years ago and I don't recall it being that great but like many things , the exact equipment, cables etc. can make a big difference. If the tranformers are that good then I would want to hear the 404 run that way._

 

They are very good phones but they have their flaws and those flaws are magnified when you open up the backwave. The stock cable is crap and they sound much better with the original Lambda ribbon cable but they are still a bit bright with a boxed in midrange. Still they are better then any of the SR-1/3/5 line and if you can get them cheap jump on them but for me they can't compete with the Lambda line and are in third place of the supra aural stats I've heard. The Suprex PEP-74 and Beyer ET1000 beat it but they are rare and hard to get.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I find the SR-X a more enjoyable headphone than the 404 I heard a while back. The 404 is a great headphone, but the SR-X has a certain trueness and focus to the sound that I've found unparalleled in the other headphones I've heard. The the SR-X is flawed indeed, but it has something special about it. Granted, I haven't heard either headphone at their best. (SRM-1/MKII for the SR-X MKIII and SRM-313 for the 404.) I'm willing bet that the headphones of the vintage Lambda series are more euphonic than the 404 and enjoyable? I need to try the Lambda Pro sometime. I would also love to hear the other lesser-known non-Stax electrostats someday as well.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they sell all of the parts needed to build one, I think._

 

Darn I've been away for a few days; Just got back from a short holiday.

 Anyway, I got a quote from them for the Senn HE60 headband pads in $. The thing is, I'm not sure whether it's USD or AUD. They also told me to deposit money directly into their bank account in Australia, so I'm guessing it's AUD?

 Best of luck with your HE60 assembly! it would be nice if you could take pictures of each part and the "site description and part number" they correspond to. Thanks!


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are what I use for all of my headphone equip.And work GREAT for us stat users with multiple setups. They are built by Wiremold and endorced by Naim. The recomended set up is to plug the higher current using devices (amps) first nearest the cord on down with sources last. They have no noisy circut protection or power robbing devices of any sort.They work VERY nicely.
Naim Wiremold_

 

These are great and what I use too, for my head-fi and my speaker-fi setups.

 I used to use power conditioners and line filters of every kind (over the years: PS Audio, Running Springs Audio, ExactPower, Audio Magic Stealth, etc.). Then I got a dedicated line from my breaker box to my listening room, on the opposite leg from my big appliances, unbroken run from box to outlet. I decided at that point that the conditioners and filters were robbing more than they were helping.

 The Wiremolds give you extra outlets without taking anything away from the sound.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I notice that those who tout the SRX3 over other Lambdas are mostly using transformers and power amps. I had such a set-up many years ago and I don't recall it being that great but like many things , the exact equipment, cables etc. can make a big difference. If the tranformers are that good then I would want to hear the 404 run that way._

 

Perhaps the SR-X IIIs are simply synergistic with transformers. And perhaps the 404s, designed as they were to be used with dedicated amps, are synergistic with amps. 

 If so this would be similar to the evolution of another mechanical transducer (and one produced in disproportionate numbers in Japan) - the phono cartridge. Older moving coil carts were designed to be used with step-up transformers, and they perform better with them - they prefer inductive loading to resistors on an all-active phono stage. Examples include the Ortofon SPU and the Denon 103, neither of which you've ever heard if you haven't heard them through the right tranny. But modern MCs prefer all-active gain stages - carts from Dynavector, Lyra, Benz etc.

 Patrick


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just received the Sigma Pro and have discovered that it just simply falls of my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My head is shaped strangely... Haha._

 

Pics, please. The headphones, not the head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, you can include the head if you want


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Given the driver orientation, does the Sigma work well with binaural material?_

 

I find them no better or worse than my other 'stats, which goes to show driver angle isn't everything.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say no. Neither are they any good with Dolby Headphone. I have been very happy with the 404 with Dolby however._

 

I'm a regular DH user and had no issue with the Sigma Pros that way at all. It just took a few hours to come to terms with the different presentation.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still they are better then any of the SR-1/3/5 line_

 

Have you compared it with the SR-5N, Spritzer? Same driver after all.

 Have had at least two people tell me they liked the SR-5N better.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the SR-X a more enjoyable headphone than the 404 I heard a while back. The 404 is a great headphone, but the SR-X has a certain trueness and focus to the sound that I've found unparalleled in the other headphones I've heard. The the SR-X is flawed indeed, but it has something special about it._

 

Compared to the odd timbre of the 404, the technicolor effect that the SR-X is quite a pleasent change.

 I'd rather listen to the HE60, which is very similar to the SR-X just with less flaws.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If so this would be similar to the evolution of another mechanical transducer (and one produced in disproportionate numbers in Japan) - the phono cartridge. Older moving coil carts were designed to be used with step-up transformers, and they perform better with them - they prefer inductive loading to resistors on an all-active phono stage. Examples include the Ortofon SPU and the Denon 103, neither of which you've ever heard if you haven't heard them through the right tranny. But modern MCs prefer all-active gain stages - carts from Dynavector, Lyra, Benz etc._

 

Sorry for the off topic question, but what is your thoughts on the best gain method for a Decca, Patrick?

 I really need to get back into the vinyl scene having been digital-only for about three years now.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for the off topic question, but what is your thoughts on the best gain method for a Decca, Patrick?_

 

The Decca carts I know are about 6V output, so straight into moving magnet input for sure and no step-up needed. Even that MM input might come close to overloading with that kind of output


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Decca carts I know are about 6V output, so straight into moving magnet input for sure and no step-up needed. Even that MM input might come close to overloading with that kind of output 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

6V is about line level isn't it? Could you do plug it directly into a passive preamp/TVC, or woud that pose an impedence mismatch?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Darn I've been away for a few days; Just got back from a short holiday.

 Anyway, I got a quote from them for the Senn HE60 headband pads in $. The thing is, I'm not sure whether it's USD or AUD. They also told me to deposit money directly into their bank account in Australia, so I'm guessing it's AUD?

 Best of luck with your HE60 assembly! it would be nice if you could take pictures of each part and the "site description and part number" they correspond to. Thanks!_

 

Yeah, its AUD and they accept credit cards too fyi. Just waiting for them to process my order now, though it might take a little longer than usual since I didn't use the reference they asked me to use... (the automated reply ended up in my spam :O)

  Quote:


 Have had at least two people tell me they liked the SR-5N better. 
 

One of them being me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my SR-X was hardly fit for making any comparisons =P


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you compared it with the SR-5N, Spritzer? Same driver after all.

 Have had at least two people tell me they liked the SR-5N better._

 

I haven't tried those yet. It's easy enough to do since I have a spare SR-3 housing if I'm ever bored.


----------



## Carl

Damn, went for more than I'd hoped.


----------



## drp

I saw MP's post regarding HE60 parts in a different thread and promptly order the HE60 case and stand/cover. The cost is in AUD, and when/if, you use PayPal, it gets converted correctly (140 was converted to 120, roughly)

 Anyway, a few days later I got an email stating that the shipping cost was for local only; that US delivery would be more (AUD$40.00). I responded in the affirmitive, really wanting the HE60 case.

 This morning, I received an email stating that my money was refunded because the item was "no longer available from the factory." I guess I was expecting that if it was listed, it was already in their "Big Warehouse" inventory.

 I'm bummed; no cradle for the Baby. However, even thought my order did not pan out, I gotta type that their auto-sent email after the order, other status emails, and the final email that my money was refunded, were all well done and seemed completely professional. And yes, the funds are in my PP account.

 Wanted to share this experience to indicate that they seem like a good company to deal with, but the parts listed do not automatically mean that they are readily available. If I spy something else that I want, I'll try to first shoot them an email.

 Dave


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not Stax at all, but this is seriously interesting stuff. I'm not sure you guys have seen this, but if you have already, good for you! Incredible. I think I'll be getting a few spare HE60 headband pads, earpads, EU AC/DC adapter, original box and foam insert!

 HE60 Parts/Spares
HEV70 Parts/Spares
HE90 Parts/Spares
HEV90 Parts/Spares_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, went for more than I'd hoped._

 

Man that is a lot. Good table though

 I've been trying out my second set of SR-Lambda's without any backwave treatment and it's a positive improvement all over except a slight coloration creeps up now and again but it sounds very promising.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man that is a lot. Good table though_

 

It was hanging around Y28000 until right near the end and it got me all hopeful. And then....


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find them no better or worse than my other 'stats, which goes to show driver angle isn't everything._

 

Intriguing. That turntable is a beast though. Someone obviously prepared to dish out the slpondulicks for it.

 Duderuuds Jecklin Float stats just arrived with me, the sound is certainly not what I expected it might be. Fuller impressions later after proper charge up and a good listen.

 Also in the news today. TakeT have agreed to send me an H2 and TR2 for review.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Intriguing. That turntable is a beast though. Someone obviously prepared to dish out the slpondulicks for it._

 

It's the only TT I'm aware of that came with a Stax tonearm as stock.

  Quote:


 Also in the news today. TakeT have agreed to send me an H2 and TR2 for review. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Oh my.


----------



## haibane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, went for more than I'd hoped._

 

How do you buy off that site? I found an SRD-7 going for 10000 yen atm. That and how are you reading it?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haibane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you buy off that site? I found an SRD-7 going for 10000 yen atm. That and how are you reading it?_

 

You get someone in Japan to get it, be it a business or a friend.


 10000 yen is a ridiculous price for a SRD-7. If you want to pay $85 for one, you're more than welcome to have mine.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_10000 yen is a ridiculous price for a SRD-7. If you want to pay $85 for one, you're more than welcome to have mine._

 

...or mine!


----------



## niels

http://cgi.ebay.de/Stax-UA-7-Tonearm...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## haibane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You get someone in Japan to get it, be it a business or a friend.


 10000 yen is a ridiculous price for a SRD-7. If you want to pay $85 for one, you're more than welcome to have mine._

 

Carl, what is a good price for one? Also where can you get one?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://cgi.ebay.de/Stax-UA-7-Tonearm...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

UA-7s are plentiful so there's no reason to pay that much.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haibane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, what is a good price for one? Also where can you get one?_

 

There is no real fixed value on them, unlike the pro bias versions, due to the low demand for 230v bias Stax headphones and plentiful supply of the transformers. As one often gets one free as part of the deal when buying old stats (even if you would rather not have it and save on the shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) it's not uncommon to end up with a few of them.

 So basically, make an offer and see if you get any bites.


----------



## haibane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_UA-7s are plentiful so there's no reason to pay that much.


 There is no real fixed value on them, unlike the pro bias versions, due to the low demand for 230v bias Stax headphones and plentiful supply of the transformers. As one often gets one free as part of the deal when buying old stats (even if you would rather not have it and save on the shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) it's not uncommon to end up with a few of them.

 So basically, make an offer and see if you get any bites._

 

Carl will do. Btw, I am looking at the white SR-5s


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_UA-7s are plentiful so there's no reason to pay that much._

 

The pisser for tightwads like me is that things like this keep happening: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230112947731


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pisser for tightwads like me is that things like this keep happening: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230112947731_

 

Damn, if only people had brain explosions like that on the stuff I sell, I could be rich!


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pisser for tightwads like me is that things like this keep happening: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230112947731_

 

Yikes! I paid less than that for an SRD7 Pro! Not much less, but less.


----------



## ericj

Yeah, if these fools could just stop parting with their money for a few hours, I could get some good gear . ..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pisser for tightwads like me is that things like this keep happening: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230112947731_

 

Somebody really wanted a SRD-7...


----------



## Carl

And in continuation of this evening's epic sniping action, this one almost tripled in price in the space of 90 seconds.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230113484399


----------



## Duggeh

You could get a very nice entire vinyl rig for that sort of money. Too rich for my blood.


----------



## audiod

I just received a SRM-717 to match with my Omega II's. LOVE IT!! The unit appears to be set up for 120vac, but the box and the unit says 100vac with a sticker over it that says 120vac. The inside near the back has a circuit board with 6 fuse holders with jumpers (metal rods the size of a fuse) on 2, 4 & 6. Does anybody have a 717 set up for 120vac so I can verify that this is correct. I called Stax USA and they do not give out that information. They wanted me to send it to them. Crazy!

 Thanks... AudioD


----------



## thrice

Yeah on the back of the unit there should be a plug that is secured with a metal cover. On that plug there should be an arrow. When you line that arrow up with the voltage on the back panel then you have converted the unit for 100, 117, 220 or 240V operation. Stax also had some units where the plug was located near the transformer on the bottom of the circuit board. You would have to remove the bottom cover in order to alter the voltage settings. i have pics at home, I'll post them when I get there.


----------



## niels

You all got Stax, and then you complain about high prices....whats the problem ? (There should be a cool smiley here...)


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You all got Stax, and then you complain about high prices....whats the problem ?_

 

I don't got Stax, i just got Koss. Am i allowed to complain about high prices?


----------



## haibane

yeah go for it


----------



## ericj

Awesome.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah on the back of the unit there should be a plug that is secured with a metal cover. On that plug there should be an arrow. When you line that arrow up with the voltage on the back panel then you have converted the unit for 100, 117, 220 or 240V operation. Stax also had some units where the plug was located near the transformer on the bottom of the circuit board. You would have to remove the bottom cover in order to alter the voltage settings. i have pics at home, I'll post them when I get there._

 

My SRM-717 does not have a voltage switch on the back like my SRM-1mkII Pro. There is a circuit board behind the transformer with 5 fuse holders labled 1 thru 6. There are metal jumpers (they look like fuses but are solid metal) on 2,4 & 6. My unit serial number is W01251.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also in the news today. TakeT have agreed to send me an H2 and TR2 for review. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Sweet, that will be quite interesting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230112947731 
 

Holy crap! No way. I thought that was going to stay at least under $50. Haha.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pics, please. The headphones, not the head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, you can include the head if you want_

 

I'll be taking photos soon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad I do not have the equipment to properly appreciate these special headphones.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-717 does not have a voltage switch on the back like my SRM-1mkII Pro. There is a circuit board behind the transformer with 5 fuse holders labled 1 thru 6. There are metal jumpers (they look like fuses but are solid metal) on 2,4 & 6. My unit serial number is W01251._

 

Ok, then I'm not familiar with that setup then. Sorry.


----------



## niels

I have the 404, but also a question.
 Even though I have a head that is twice as high as it is wide the phones seem to rest very low on my head. Cant figure out how the people using too much adjustment look like !
 Any clever method for getting them a bit higher ? A headband cushion or something ?
 After listening to one album it is actually a relief to take the phones off the head...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps the SR-X IIIs are simply synergistic with transformers. And perhaps the 404s, designed as they were to be used with dedicated amps, are synergistic with amps. 

 If so this would be similar to the evolution of another mechanical transducer (and one produced in disproportionate numbers in Japan) - the phono cartridge. Older moving coil carts were designed to be used with step-up transformers, and they perform better with them - they prefer inductive loading to resistors on an all-active phono stage. Examples include the Ortofon SPU and the Denon 103, neither of which you've ever heard if you haven't heard them through the right tranny. But modern MCs prefer all-active gain stages - carts from Dynavector, Lyra, Benz etc.

 Patrick_

 

Possibly, or just some inadvertent synergy. Stax was making both amps and transformers for their phones pretty much from the beginning as best as I can tell from their web site history section. The SRA 12S amp I am using has an owners manual showing it with the SRX3 plugged in.

 As I did more listening last night I am struck by how the bass cut-off affects the definition and dynamics of the rest of the frequency region of the SRX3. You hear great mid range detail and dynamics in this region because these phones don't try for the extreme bass. This characteristic works well with some material. Often though, I find that I have to turn the volume up so much to get satisfactory bass that I get auditory fatigue. I also get a bit too much treble so I hear a lot of surface noise on LP's and tape hiss on older recorded material. 

 Now, if instead of using a dedicated headphone amp, you use a transformer, and regular amp with tone controls, cut the treble a bit and boost the bass, them you will have a nicely balanced sound. I am wondering if this is what some of those who rave about these phones with transformers are doing.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6V is about line level isn't it? Could you do plug it directly into a passive preamp/TVC, or woud that pose an impedence mismatch?_

 

Whoops, I meant 6mV. 6 volts from phono cartridge would probably break the laws of physics.

 So no, you'd still need to step it up to line level... but on top of that you'd need to apply RIAA EQ which a linestage doesn't do. A standard MM input is all you need. Load should be 47 kohm.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, went for more than I'd hoped._

 

Japanese direct-drive behemoth turntables are all the rage now. The Denons also go for a pretty penny these days. I think they're only going to appreciate in value - so long as they are in good mechanical condition - because they are works of art, both the finish and the engineering. And *nobody* has the tooling and volume to make complicated turntables like this anymore.

 Though I have to say I have a thing for idler-wheel tables


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, if instead of using a dedicated headphone amp, you use a transformer, and regular amp with tone controls, cut the treble a bit and boost the bass, them you will have a nicely balanced sound. I am wondering if this is what some of those who rave about these phones with transformers are doing._

 

I use SRXIII's with my SRA-12S also. I have the same complaints. I put a Behringer DSP-8024 digital EQ in the tape loop. I have different curves stored in the different memories for my different phones. What a difference! The SRX's take EQ extremely well.
 I use to have my SRD-7 driven by a Pass Labs Aleph 5. I like the SRA-12s with EQ better.

 AudioD


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received a SRM-717 to match with my Omega II's. LOVE IT!! The unit appears to be set up for 120vac, but the box and the unit says 100vac with a sticker over it that says 120vac. The inside near the back has a circuit board with 6 fuse holders with jumpers (metal rods the size of a fuse) on 2, 4 & 6. Does anybody have a 717 set up for 120vac so I can verify that this is correct. I called Stax USA and they do not give out that information. They wanted me to send it to them. Crazy!_

 

Stax and its distributors are trying to stop grey market imports by making it harder to switch the voltage. I have the same problem with my 006tII.

 However I think you might be ok... Kevin Gilmore posted in detail in one of the other forums on changing voltage in the newer Stax amps. (They're making it harder and harder with each iteration of the models.) 2, 4 & 6 rings a bell as being 120V. But do a search for the thread to be sure. It has photos.

 Patrick


----------



## edstrelow

CARL
  Quote:


 I find them no better or worse than my other 'stats, which goes to show driver angle isn't everything. 
 

Any binaural recordings of which i have information place the microphones right inside the pinna just at the opening of the ear canal, of either a real person or a dummy head. For best results, I would think the playback transducer should be in the same location. The Sigma transducer is located in the wrong place, it is ahead of the ear and facing back. Obviously it still plays back the sound but I feel it doesn't do as good a job with this type of material as any good conventional supraural or circumaural phone. I haven't tried binaural with an earbud, IEM or SR003 but I would think these would be the best of all. 

 CARL
  Quote:


 I'm a regular DH user and had no issue with the Sigma Pros that way at all. It just took a few hours to come to terms with the different presentation. 
 

As much as I like these phones for most material, they just didn't work for me with Dolby Headphone. I don't think you should have spend hours to get used to their sound with DH. When I have played DH with the 404 or SR003 people are impressed from the get-go.

 I don't know all of what the Dolby people are doing for DH but I suspect they are trying to simulate a binaural recording and that as with binaural recordings you will get the best results with headphones which match up with a binaural type of recording.


----------



## edstrelow

Originally Posted by audiod 
  Quote:


 I just received a SRM-717 to match with my Omega II's. LOVE IT!! The unit appears to be set up for 120vac, but the box and the unit says 100vac with a sticker over it that says 120vac. The inside near the back has a circuit board with 6 fuse holders with jumpers (metal rods the size of a fuse) on 2, 4 & 6. Does anybody have a 717 set up for 120vac so I can verify that this is correct. I called Stax USA and they do not give out that information. They wanted me to send it to them. Crazy! 
 

Who sold you the 717? I bought mine from EIFL, rather than Audiocubes, because EIFL would do the proper voltage set-up. Audio cubes would only supply a 100 volt unit with a step-down transformer.

 I also recall that Kevin Gilmore posted photos of the proper fuse set-up about a year ago. Check the amplifier section.


----------



## edstrelow

I have posted a copy of the KOSS ESP9 manual with schematics here:

http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...15076&size=big

http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...15075&size=big

http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...15074&size=big

http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...15073&size=big


 Someone sent me this some years ago. As I look at it I see some Stax stuff here too, I do not recall why. I am not even sure what some of the Stax things are. Looks like an SRD7 schematic.

 Evidently Yahoo no longer allows direct links. I keep trying. If these don't work and anyone needs either the Koss ESP9 or Stax SRD7 material, contact me and I will e-mail it.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, if instead of using a dedicated headphone amp, you use a transformer, and regular amp with tone controls, cut the treble a bit and boost the bass, them you will have a nicely balanced sound. I am wondering if this is what some of those who rave about these phones with transformers are doing._

 

I try avoid cutting the treble unless absolutely necessary but otherwise I do exactly that. My amp has tone controls and I drive the headphones from my SRD-7 Mk2, generally with some boost to the bass. Bass roll off is something I just cannot entertain in a headphone. With most headphones I find EQ like this just sounds wrong and corrupts the sound but like audiod says, the SR-X Mk3 handles EQ extremely well. The resulting sound is not going to compete with something like the O2s, but they are very enjoyable to listen to, especially considering the paltry sum I paid for them. I do keep away from making general comments regarding the SR-X Mk3 frequency response since with EQ I'm clearly not going to be hearing what everyone else does.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_CARL


 Any binaural recordings of which i have information place the microphones right inside the pinna just at the opening of the ear canal, of either a real person or a dummy head. For best results, I would think the playback transducer should be in the same location. The Sigma transducer is located in the wrong place, it is ahead of the ear and facing back. Obviously it still plays back the sound but I feel it doesn't do as good a job with this type of material as any good conventional supraural or circumaural phone. I haven't tried binaural with an earbud, IEM or SR003 but I would think these would be the best of all. 

 CARL


 As much as I like these phones for most material, they just didn't work for me with Dolby Headphone. I don't think you should have spend hours to get used to their sound with DH. When I have played DH with the 404 or SR003 people are impressed from the get-go.

 I don't know all of what the Dolby people are doing for DH but I suspect they are trying to simulate a binaural recording and that as with binaural recordings you will get the best results with headphones which match up with a binaural type of recording._

 

You'd think that would be the case, and I had that expectation going in, but I didn't find that to be the case in practice, which goes to show hearing is more complicated than we think.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I try avoid cutting the treble unless absolutely necessary but otherwise I do exactly that. My amp has tone controls and I drive the headphones from my SRD-7 Mk2, generally with some boost to the bass. Bass roll off is something I just cannot entertain in a headphone. With most headphones I find EQ like this just sounds wrong and corrupts the sound but like audiod says, the SR-X Mk3 handles EQ extremely well. The resulting sound is not going to compete with something like the O2s, but they are very enjoyable to listen to, especially considering the paltry sum I paid for them. I do keep away from making general comments regarding the SR-X Mk3 frequency response since with EQ I'm clearly not going to be hearing what everyone else does._

 

With the computer or DAP I like a little bass EQ with my SR-X. I don't think it's absolutely necessary but I like the extra bit of oomph. I don't mess with anything other than the lowest frequencies, about 2db @ >40Hz as everything else is perfect for me. I could live happily without any EQ if need be. If I'm using a CDP I don't use any EQ at all and they sound great. 

 They do EQ very well though and can take a good beating


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax and its distributors are trying to stop grey market imports by making it harder to switch the voltage. I have the same problem with my 006tII.

 However I think you might be ok... Kevin Gilmore posted in detail in one of the other forums on changing voltage in the newer Stax amps. (They're making it harder and harder with each iteration of the models.) 2, 4 & 6 rings a bell as being 120V. But do a search for the thread to be sure. It has photos.

 Patrick_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who sold you the 717? I bought mine from EIFL, rather than Audiocubes, because EIFL would do the proper voltage set-up. Audio cubes would only supply a 100 volt unit with a step-down transformer.

 I also recall that Kevin Gilmore posted photos of the proper fuse set-up about a year ago. Check the amplifier section._

 

Thanks Patrick and edstrelow. 
 I found the information from Kevin Gilmore on another thread. Jumpers 2, 4 & 6 are correct for 120v.

 I got the SRM-717 from Nikongod. The unit sounds great and is nicely made. If I ever upgrade my amp it will probably be a KGSS. I'm in no hurry.

 AudioD


----------



## Dawoofer

EDSTRELOW- Your links state "server not found"


----------



## educator

Would using an external voltage transformer degrade the sound of the 717?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Originally Posted by audiod 


 Who sold you the 717? I bought mine from EIFL, rather than Audiocubes, because EIFL would do the proper voltage set-up. Audio cubes would only supply a 100 volt unit with a step-down transformer.

 I also recall that Kevin Gilmore posted photos of the proper fuse set-up about a year ago. Check the amplifier section._


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would using an external voltage transformer degrade the sound of the 717?_

 

Depends on its voltamp rating.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_EDSTRELOW- Your links state "server not found"_

 

I am not sure what is wrong. I have posted links this way before with full success. As I said, send me an e-mail with your e-mail address and I will send you these.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not sure what is wrong. I have posted links this way before with full success. As I said, send me an e-mail with your e-mail address and I will send you these._

 

You can also post them on http://photo.head-fi.org/


----------



## Duggeh

Egads, the Stax thread, dropping to page 3? What on earth is the world coming to?

 I have been listening casually to the Float electrostatic over the last day. The sound is very different to what I'd been expecting: Rolled off bass and a slightly thin midrange but with great dynamic presence. Conversely they have an astonishing bass tonality and the whole sound is very warm, much warmer and with greater presence in the bass than the AMT. Much closer to the tone of the Omega 2 than the AMT. Very very pleasant totally unfatiguing listening and as comfortable with hot mixed pop as with jazz or piano.


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depends on its voltamp rating._

 

My transformer has a 350va rating.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Egads, the Stax thread, dropping to page 3? What on earth is the world coming to?

 I have been listening casually to the Float electrostatic over the last day. The sound is very different to what I'd been expecting: Rolled off bass and a slightly thin midrange but with great dynamic presence. Conversely they have an astonishing bass tonality and the whole sound is very warm, much warmer and with greater presence in the bass than the AMT. Much closer to the tone of the Omega 2 than the AMT. Very very pleasant totally unfatiguing listening and as comfortable with hot mixed pop as with jazz or piano._

 

Very similar to my impressions some years ago. Good headphones but not great and all you have left to do is hook them up to the 717.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Egads, the Stax thread, dropping to page 3? What on earth is the world coming to?

 I have been listening casually to the Float electrostatic over the last day. The sound is very different to what I'd been expecting: Rolled off bass and a slightly thin midrange but with great dynamic presence. Conversely they have an astonishing bass tonality and the whole sound is very warm, much warmer and with greater presence in the bass than the AMT. Much closer to the tone of the Omega 2 than the AMT. Very very pleasant totally unfatiguing listening and as comfortable with hot mixed pop as with jazz or piano._

 

I remember my 2 sets of Floats very fondly. However they both broke down and I sold them off.


----------



## wualta

But Duggeh, you see, is a diehard Floater, he is.

 Great coup getting TakeT to send you some of their piezo Heils. Can't wait to see the photos, play the Who Stole My Magnets? game, and puzzle over the high cost.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But Duggeh, you see, is a diehard Floater, he is.

 Great coup getting TakeT to send you some of their piezo Heils. Can't wait to see the photos, play the Who Stole My Magnets? game, and puzzle over the high cost._

 

Oh, what is this? Exciting stuff with this and the Float electrostatics. I'll be very interested to hear more when the time comes.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But Duggeh, you see, is a diehard Floater, he is.

 Great coup getting TakeT to send you some of their piezo Heils. Can't wait to see the photos, play the Who Stole My Magnets? game, and puzzle over the high cost._

 

Mr. Takei says that their new amplification solution should be better than the current transformer use. Should be available by autumn.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, what is this? Exciting stuff with this and the Float electrostatics. I'll be very interested to hear more when the time comes._

 

I'd post photos and suchwhat, but my camera is with the family while they holiday in France. But I am enjoying them immensely. I look forward to voicing my thoughts in detail.


----------



## Spare Tire

Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look totally awesome!


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spare Tire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look cool enough to be in team stax?_

 


 No, but they'll make me look cool...go ahead and send them my way...you're already cool without them


----------



## Duggeh

Oh yes. I'd say so. I'd also say thats avatar material right there.


----------



## smeggy

The coolesr EVAR!

 Now if only you had a cape and some natty external underwear you'd be set. 

 Is it a bird, is it a plane.. No, it's...... _*SuperSigmaMan*_, fighting for truth, justice and the electrostatic way.


----------



## Spare Tire

Well, avatar would be too small for the heroic pose. One day i'll do the cape and external underwear haha.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spare Tire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look totally awesome!_

 

Yes, they most definitely do!


----------



## John Buchanan

Re: The JJ Floats
 My impressions pretty much line up with Duggeh's. NO low bass compared with either the Sigmas or Lambda Nova Signatures that I had at the time. Parts of Projekct 1's stick playing simply disappeared on the Float, whereas it was very present on either Stax. They were also a bit bright compared with either, but the dynamics were absolutely unbelievable. I didn't have them running on a good amp - that could have been a real eye opener.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I saw MP's post regarding HE60 parts in a different thread and promptly order the HE60 case and stand/cover. The cost is in AUD, and when/if, you use PayPal, it gets converted correctly (140 was converted to 120, roughly)

 Anyway, a few days later I got an email stating that the shipping cost was for local only; that US delivery would be more (AUD$40.00). I responded in the affirmitive, really wanting the HE60 case.

 This morning, I received an email stating that my money was refunded because the item was "no longer available from the factory." I guess I was expecting that if it was listed, it was already in their "Big Warehouse" inventory.

 I'm bummed; no cradle for the Baby. However, even thought my order did not pan out, I gotta type that their auto-sent email after the order, other status emails, and the final email that my money was refunded, were all well done and seemed completely professional. And yes, the funds are in my PP account.

 Wanted to share this experience to indicate that they seem like a good company to deal with, but the parts listed do not automatically mean that they are readily available. If I spy something else that I want, I'll try to first shoot them an email.

 Dave_

 

Interesting. I asked them for a price quote for two HE60 headband pads and I was emailed back saying that would cost 20AUD each plus 10AUD shipping to UK. I promptly agreed and paid via Paypal having been sent the invoice. So far so good. I've got the confirmation email... Hope they won't cancel my order too.

 BTW, I did all this without having to use their online shopping cart. I contacted them directly about it and a very nice chap replied to my emails.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also in the news today. TakeT have agreed to send me an H2 and TR2 for review. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Old news to Head-Fi but news to me. *>>WOW<<* What did you do?


----------



## patrickamory

Got my Japanese Raytheon 6FQ7s in my 006tII, warmed them up for about 4 hours, and biased them (thanks spritzer). The stock tubes were Electro-Harmonix btw.

 First impressions - same piece of music that I was listening to last night on the E-H tubes. More transparent, less digital, less bass, takes more volume to get loud. All that said, not a HUGE difference from the stock tubes. 

 But I'll let them burn in a little bit more and get back to you. The key often is in extended listening sessions.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I asked them for a price quote for two HE60 headband pads and I was emailed back saying that would cost 20AUD each plus 10AUD shipping to UK. I promptly agreed and paid via Paypal having been sent the invoice. So far so good. I've got the confirmation email... Hope they won't cancel my order too.

 BTW, I did all this without having to use their online shopping cart. I contacted them directly about it and a very nice chap replied to my emails._

 

Umm, here's their latest reply:

 Sennheiser has told us that some of these parts are now no longer available. like the headband and headband padding.

 Do you what us to still supply the parts we have?

 Regards,

 Daniel

 Should I go for the rest of the parts they have? Make a ghetto HE60 or something like that? Or alternatively, only buy the drivers and send them to larry for a headphile custom?


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my Japanese Raytheon 6FQ7s in my 006tII, warmed them up for about 4 hours, and biased them (thanks spritzer). The stock tubes were Electro-Harmonix btw.

 First impressions - same piece of music that I was listening to last night on the E-H tubes. More transparent, less digital, less bass, takes more volume to get loud. All that said, not a HUGE difference from the stock tubes. 

 But I'll let them burn in a little bit more and get back to you. The key often is in extended listening sessions._

 

Interesting. I have yet to roll my Raytheons in because I don't have a multimeter or an insulated screwdriver. Please post more impressions as you listen
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Umm, here's their latest reply:

 Sennheiser has told us that some of these parts are now no longer available. like the headband and headband padding.

 Do you what us to still supply the parts we have?

 Regards,

 Daniel

 Should I go for the rest of the parts they have? Make a ghetto HE60 or something like that? Or alternatively, only buy the drivers and send them to larry for a headphile custom?_

 

That's really quite lame. What parts do they have then? So far, we've figured out that they don't have the headband, headband padding, box and stand/cover.


----------



## Tachikoma

I've just emailed them about that. I didn't order the box and stand/cover though =P (the box supposedly sucks? maybe for the money you'd have to shell out for one?)


----------



## Azure

I'm a little lazy, so can somebody tell me the story on these:

http://headphile.com/hd14.jpg
http://headphile.com/hd14a.jpg

 Did someone here buy them? How do they sound?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Azure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm a little lazy, so can somebody tell me the story on these:

http://headphile.com/hd14.jpg
http://headphile.com/hd14a.jpg

 Did someone here buy them? How do they sound?_

 

Check thrice's post on page 62.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mr. Takei says that their new amplification solution shoudl hopefully mean prices will come down in the autumn. With luck by several hundred dollors._

 

Sounds promising. especially if you plan to use a different amp anyway.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spare Tire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look totally awesome!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...v_12_sigma.jpg_

 

They look sillier in real life.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: The JJ Floats
 My impressions pretty much line up with Duggeh's. NO low bass compared with either the Sigmas or Lambda Nova Signatures that I had at the time. Parts of Projekct 1's stick playing simply disappeared on the Float, whereas it was very present on either Stax. They were also a bit bright compared with either, but the dynamics were absolutely unbelievable. I didn't have them running on a good amp - that could have been a real eye opener._

 

I've got to try them some time. They sound really interesting.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just emailed them about that. I didn't order the box and stand/cover though =P (the box supposedly sucks? maybe for the money you'd have to shell out for one?)_

 

Not so much sucks as completely pointless. The HE90 box it is not.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spare Tire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look totally awesome!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...v_12_sigma.jpg_

 

Holy crap. That photo is legendary! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh my goodness. For some reason that photo is making me want to keep my Sigma Pros.

 Sigma Pros are so awkward that I think they're just so... awesome.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spare Tire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello people, sorry to be hijacking the tread, but does the Sigmas make me look totally awesome!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...v_12_sigma.jpg_

 

My father says they make me look like an alien but I think he's just jealous... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my Japanese Raytheon 6FQ7s in my 006tII, warmed them up for about 4 hours, and biased them (thanks spritzer). The stock tubes were Electro-Harmonix btw.

 First impressions - same piece of music that I was listening to last night on the E-H tubes. More transparent, less digital, less bass, takes more volume to get loud. All that said, not a HUGE difference from the stock tubes. 

 But I'll let them burn in a little bit more and get back to you. The key often is in extended listening sessions._

 

Let them burn in for a while, they will be better after 30-40 hours. These tubes have no major faults but I've never tried the E-H tubes so I can't compare. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Umm, here's their latest reply:

 Should I go for the rest of the parts they have? Make a ghetto HE60 or something like that? Or alternatively, only buy the drivers and send them to larry for a headphile custom?_

 

All you really need is the drivers, earpads and the earcups. You can modify HD6x0 parts for the rest and use a Stax extension for the cable.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also in the news today. TakeT have agreed to send me an H2 and TR2 for review. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mr. Takei says that their new amplification solution shoudl hopefully mean prices will come down in the autumn. With luck by several hundred dollors._

 

Excellent news, both of them!
 Can't wait to hear what you think of them, and to see some pictures.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Egads, the Stax thread, dropping to page 3? What on earth is the world coming to?_

 

This time *I* found it on page 3. Up to the top again... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my Japanese Raytheon 6FQ7s in my 006tII, warmed them up for about 4 hours, and biased them (thanks spritzer). The stock tubes were Electro-Harmonix btw.

 First impressions - same piece of music that I was listening to last night on the E-H tubes. More transparent, less digital, less bass, takes more volume to get loud. All that said, not a HUGE difference from the stock tubes. 

 But I'll let them burn in a little bit more and get back to you. The key often is in extended listening sessions._

 

I am still waiting for my Raytheon's. It will be great to hear what you think of them when they have burned in for ~50 hours.
 My 007t will get its first tube roll pretty soon...


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Azure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm a little lazy, so can somebody tell me the story on these:

http://headphile.com/hd14.jpg
http://headphile.com/hd14a.jpg

 Did someone here buy them? How do they sound?_

 

He's back! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Where are you on your head-fi journey Azure?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still waiting for my Raytheon's. It will be great to hear what you think of them when they have burned in for ~50 hours.
 My 007t will get its first tube roll pretty soon..._

 

I'm very interested in your findings. Got my quad pack the other day, along with directions for biasing, so be sure and report back on your results.


----------



## derekbmn

So I just hacked off about 3 feet of the stock power cord on my SRD-7 Pro. Added an external ground wire from the outer case and ran it to the ground on a nice Pass & Seymour plug. I honestly wasn't expecting much (if any )improvement, but damn I swear it opened things up on top a bit and a blacker backgound (possibly the grounding) and low and behold a little more dynamic range. That is all for now.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I just hacked off about 3 feet of the stock power cord on my SRD-7 Pro. Added an external ground wire from the outer case and ran it to the ground on a nice Pass & Seymour plug. I honestly wasn't expecting much (if any )improvement, but damn I swear it opened things up on top a bit and a blacker backgound (possibly the grounding) and low and behold a little more dynamic range. That is all for now.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm beginning to feel that there must be something untowards going on with the power supply of Stax's transformers (as opposed to in the iron itself). I've come to think the reason my Illusion unit sounds so much better than the SRD-7 is due to it being run off batteries.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm beginning to feel that there must be something untowards going on with the power supply of Stax's transformers (as opposed to in the iron itself). I've come to think the reason my Illusion unit sounds so much better than the SRD-7 is due to it being run off batteries._

 

I think you are probably right.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still would love to get my hands on one of the Illusions.


----------



## edstrelow

I would like to open up the earcups of my newly acquired Stax SRX3 to check the connections inside, but I can't see how it is done. I tried searching this forum but didn't find an explanation.

 Anyone able to help?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to open up the earcups of my newly acquired Stax SRX3 to check the connections inside, but I can't see how it is done. I tried searching this forum but didn't find an explanation.

 Anyone able to help?_

 

The part where the headband clamps on the driver housings are actually screws you can remove.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very interested in your findings. Got my quad pack the other day, along with directions for biasing, so be sure and report back on your results. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The tubes shipped on Tuesday, so I expect them to arrive any day not.
 Never tube-rolled an amplifier before, but I will hopefully get it right. Will report...


----------



## brospin

Does anyone know if the Stax earspeakers use two signals simultaneously at both electrodes (a direct signal at one electrode and an inverted signal at the other electrode)? Or is the signal split into the positive and the negative half of the wave and each half directed towards the corresponding electrode, so that in a given moment only one signal is acting at one of the electrodes?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brospin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if the Stax earspeakers use two signals simultaneously at both electrodes (a direct signal at one electrode and an inverted signal at the other electrode)? Or is the signal split into the positive and the negative half of the wave and each half directed towards the corresponding electrode, so that in a given moment only one signal is acting at one of the electrodes?_

 

In other words class A or class B? Both Stators see both parts of the sine wave otherwise there would be crossover distortion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm beginning to feel that there must be something untowards going on with the power supply of Stax's transformers (as opposed to in the iron itself). I've come to think the reason my Illusion unit sounds so much better than the SRD-7 is due to it being run off batteries._

 

I've tried this over the last few weeks and haven't noticed any difference by slaving the SRD's to some other bias supply. My amp isn't top notch but it's alright. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to open up the earcups of my newly acquired Stax SRX3 to check the connections inside, but I can't see how it is done. I tried searching this forum but didn't find an explanation.

 Anyone able to help?_

 

Remove the headband and remove the sockets that hold it. The metal part that holds the earpads slides off and there are small screws underneath. Be very careful with these because they don't like any abuse or they will break.


----------



## _LN_

Carl, just to go off on a tangent here, did you ever successfully mate the Philips HD1500U with Staxen? I have both here, and have been thinking of simply connecting the headphone out of the Philips to the line in of the SRM-3 or SRM-001, using a suitable cable I have. I suppose it might be wise to build in some kind of protection against an overly high input level into the adapter cable, but I wouldn't know how.
 Alternatively, I also have the portable Creative Dolby Headphone unit (which came with crappy headphones, but is even able to drive my Sennheiser HD-560!), which I could also try.
 I'm not too worried about frying anything, as long as I keep the volume levels of the DH units fairly low -- just never got around to trying it yet...

 So, do you, or anyone else here, have any experience with this kind of setup yet?

 Ellen


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, just to go off on a tangent here, did you ever successfully mate the Philips HD1500U with Staxen? I have both here, and have been thinking of simply connecting the headphone out of the Philips to the line in of the SRM-3 or SRM-001, using a suitable cable I have. I suppose it might be wise to build in some kind of protection against an overly high input level into the adapter cable, but I wouldn't know how.
 Alternatively, I also have the portable Creative Dolby Headphone unit (which came with crappy headphones, but is even able to drive my Sennheiser HD-560!), which I could also try.
 I'm not too worried about frying anything, as long as I keep the volume levels of the DH units fairly low -- just never got around to trying it yet...

 So, do you, or anyone else here, have any experience with this kind of setup yet?

 Ellen_

 

I use the AH1000 as my preamp. Not the best sounding pre in the world by any stretch, but until I find a better solution that's what I'm using.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use the AH1000 as my preamp. Not the best sounding pre in the world by any stretch, but until I find a better solution that's what I'm using._

 

Is that the amp for the wired-only Philips surround set? If so, are you using the regular headphone socket, or did you actually modify (as I think you planned to do) the amp to get to the signal before the headphone amplification stage? (inquiring minds... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 )

 Ellen


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is that the amp for the wired-only Philips surround set? If so, are you using the regular headphone socket, or did you actually modify (as I think you planned to do) the amp to get to the signal before the headphone amplification stage? (inquiring minds... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 Ellen_

 

It's not modifiable by any sane person. It's all SMD. I just run out of the headphone socket. I'm not planning on it being this way in the long term, however.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not modifiable by any sane person. It's all SMD. I just run out of the headphone socket. I'm not planning on it being this way in the long term, however._

 

Who said anything about sane persons? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 BTW, I assume you're using a plain 6.3mm stereo plug to cinch cable?!?
 Anyway, thanks for the reply -- I'll now let this thread return to its regular scheduled programming...


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who said anything about sane persons? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

"Madness? This is the Stax Thread!"

 Er, sorry, couldn't resist. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## ericj

I went ahead and popped open the left driver so i could touch up the connection to the front stator. 

 Probably unnecessary - a drop of deoxit would have probably done a good enough job. 

 But i figured while i was in there, i may as well take some pictures. Anybody wanna explain what in the name of Bob I'm looking at? I understand that I'm looking at the front stator and membrane on one side, but what's going on with the other side? 





 clickable as always. 

 I think I'm off to the hardware store now to buy a sane replacement for the accursed aluminum "don't go here" koss hex-head screws.

 Edit: 3/8" #4 sheet metal screws work well to replace the loathsome koss screws.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Madness? This is the Stax Thread!"

 Er, sorry, couldn't resist. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best,

 -Jason_

 

We aren't mad, we're just a bit more sane then the rest of the world...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went ahead and popped open the left driver so i could touch up the connection to the front stator. 

 Probably unnecessary - a drop of deoxit would have probably done a good enough job. 

 But i figured while i was in there, i may as well take some pictures. Anybody wanna explain what in the name of Bob I'm looking at? I understand that I'm looking at the front stator and membrane on one side, but what's going on with the other side? 





 clickable as always. 

 I think I'm off to the hardware store now to buy a sane replacement for the accursed aluminum "don't go here" koss hex-head screws._

 

Behind the membrane there is the back stator that Koss in their infinite wisdom connected to earth effectively making the phones single ended. As you can see the membrane isn't made out of mylar. It's probably polyethylene or something similar that has none of the properties that make mylar so good.

 The coating looks like it's metallic so they must not be using constant charge method. They are an oddball but they hold up really well and that matters.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Behind the membrane there is the back stator that Koss in their infinite wisdom connected to earth effectively making the phones single ended. As you can see the membrane isn't made out of mylar. It's probably polyethylene or something similar that has none of the properties that make mylar so good.

 The coating looks like it's metallic so they must not be using constant charge method. They are an oddball but they hold up really well and that matters._

 

Yes but, there are two membranes. 

 There is one stretched over the back of the front stator - on the right - and the silvered one stretched over the back stator - on the left.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes but, there are two membranes. 

 There is one stretched over the back of the front stator - on the right - and the silvered one stretched over the back stator - on the left._

 

Hmmm I think the one on the back of the front stator might be either a part of the spacer or the dustcover. I've never opened up the driver like this so I can't be sure. If you are laking about the semi translucent plastic the surrounds the stator on the left that is probably the spacer though I can't be sure from this angle. The silver bit is the coating on the membrane and you can see parts of the membrane it self around it. It isn't totally transparent so it can't be mylar. 

 Some stats' have 3 membranes but most only have two. There is the biased membrane that produces the sound and the others are dust covers but the one for the back cover is often replaced with a finely woven nylon mesh to lessen reflections.


----------



## ericj

Well, thanks all for your help so far. 

 I've reassembled the left earcup. I took time to torque down all four posts as tight as i could comfortably make them with small tools, then did the same with the nuts that hold on the circuit board. 

 I got out my needle-nosed pliers and closed up each of those little push-on connectors until they fit their post snugly. 

 And right at the moment, this kit is sounding pretty decent running self-biased. Admittedly, I'm listening to one of those tracks where they had the "warm" slider set all the way to 11 when they mastered it. 

 I'll give the right earcup the same treatment soon, and see if i can figure out wall-powered bias in this E.9, or just get another E.9 or some other transformer box.

 I've got some Pro4AA pads from koss, but seeing as they fit INSIDE the esp9 pads, I'm not sure it's worth the effort to try and sqeeze them on there. I think it'd take less time and effort to manufacture some velour pads . . . .


----------



## spritzer

Glad to hear they're getting there. 

 Have you seen this photo edstrelow posted in the photo gallery? 




Larger image here. This isn't anything like my /E.9 but it should be the same in basic principle so you can maybe use it for troubleshooting.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Behind the membrane there is the back stator that Koss in their infinite wisdom connected to earth effectively making the phones single ended._

 

I think that Koss grounded the inner stator for safety reasons. They appear to be a true Push-Pull stat. The bias supply is floating on the center tap and the secondaries are connected to the stators in standard PP fashion. I think that the inner membrane is a dust and humidity shield. It may also act to keep the metallic coating from hitting the stator and shorting and draining the bias off.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to hear they're getting there. 

 Have you seen this photo edstrelow posted in the photo gallery?_

 


 Yeah, I just haven't dug into it yet.

 My E.9 is marked "220v", came stock with a captive cord unlike the 117v north america version. 

 Now, here's the twist. Duggeh posted a picture of the insides of his 220v E.9 and it included a 4th transformer attached to a mezanine frame on the left-hand side, floating near the top of the case. I just have the two audio transformers on the board and the bias transformer bolted to the back of the case. 

 Is that 4th trafo a 2:1 stepdown transformer? or what? 

 Until i get into my E.9 with my dmm and start checking voltages, the bias supply in my E.9 is a mystery. There are half a dozen obvious post-manufacture changes to it's internal wiring, and it seems probable that someone tried to convert it to 117v and failed. 

 I feel somewhat more optimistic that an unadulterated 117v E.9 will appear w/o matching cans and w/o power cord on That Auction Site, allowing me to retrofit it with a filtered IEC power inlet, and go from there. 

 But that doesn't mean i won't also figure out what's wrong with the one i have now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that Koss grounded the inner stator for safety reasons. They appear to be a true Push-Pull stat. The bias supply is floating on the center tap and the secondaries are connected to the stators in standard PP fashion. I think that the inner membrane is a dust and humidity shield. It may also act to keep the metallic coating from hitting the stator and shorting and draining the bias off._

 

There are no safety reasons to think about and the bleed resistor is the only safety you need. I think they did it to lessen the backwave and thus make it easier to have a closed back stat'. There can't be much voltage on the - stator because it is directly connected to the metal part of the left housing. The bias unit is linked to the CT for a 0 voltage reference just like Beyer did in the N1000. The inner membrane might be an insulator or dustcover or maybe both not that really matters. You gotta love Koss though for their crazy ideas and their patents are a joy to read. 

 My E.9 is nothing like that schematic. The audio transformers have no CT connections and there are no other transformers in the box. The circuit in the cups is very similar though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I just haven't dug into it yet.

 My E.9 is marked "220v", came stock with a captive cord unlike the 117v north america version. 

 Now, here's the twist. Duggeh posted a picture of the insides of his 220v E.9 and it included a 4th transformer attached to a mezanine frame on the left-hand side, floating near the top of the case. I just have the two audio transformers on the board and the bias transformer bolted to the back of the case. 

 Is that 4th trafo a 2:1 stepdown transformer? or what? 

 Until i get into my E.9 with my dmm and start checking voltages, the bias supply in my E.9 is a mystery. There are half a dozen obvious post-manufacture changes to it's internal wiring, and it seems probable that someone tried to convert it to 117v and failed. 

 I feel somewhat more optimistic that an unadulterated 117v E.9 will appear w/o matching cans and w/o power cord on That Auction Site, allowing me to retrofit it with a filtered IEC power inlet, and go from there. 

 But that doesn't mean i won't also figure out what's wrong with the one i have now._

 

You mean something like this one?

 My unit has only two transformers and I have seen pictures of units with three and four. There were many versions so this is a very tough nut to crack. A common trick in that day was to use zeners to step the 220v voltage back down to 120v so you needed minimal changes to the drive unit. Stax did this and so did Beyer and made the units universal in voltage due to the zener reference.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean something like this one?_

 

Yup. That's the one my search robot pulled up a few days ago. Waiting patiently. 

 To tell the truth i haven't tried AC bias today. self-bias is working ok and i don't want to ruin a good thing just yet. 

  Quote:


 My unit has only two transformers and I have seen pictures of units with three and four. There were many versions so this is a very tough nut to crack. A common trick in that day was to use zeners to step the 220v voltage back down to 120v so you needed minimal changes to the drive unit. Stax did this and so did Beyer and made the units universal in voltage due to the zener reference. 
 

Yeah. Someone has pigtail wired a few junctions, insulated with red tape, and added some in-line resistors to something on the jack. No telling what their game was until i really start to analyze it.

 Edit: Oh yeah! I had a question!

 That amber light on the front panel - is that a "bias power on" light or an "overload" light? 

 'cause it doesn't typically turn on, on mine. But i have seen it flash on a few times.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. That's the one my search robot pulled up a few days ago. Waiting patiently. 

 To tell the truth i haven't tried AC bias today. self-bias is working ok and i don't want to ruin a good thing just yet. 



 Yeah. Someone has pigtail wired a few junctions, insulated with red tape, and added some in-line resistors to something on the jack. No telling what their game was until i really start to analyze it.

 Edit: Oh yeah! I had a question!

 That amber light on the front panel - is that a "bias power on" light or an "overload" light? 

 'cause it doesn't typically turn on, on mine. But i have seen it flash on a few times._

 

I've never seen it flash but it comes on with the AC bias.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never seen it flash but it comes on with the AC bias._

 

Well, mine doesn't. It's a neon lamp though, so maybe it just needs to be replaced.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, mine doesn't. It's a neon lamp though, so maybe it just needs to be replaced._

 

If it flashes it must work but there might be some connection problem.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Madness? This is the Stax Thread!"

 Er, sorry, couldn't resist. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Best,

 -Jason_

 

One of the cheesiest movies I've watched in recent memory, and thats not even getting into the historical inaccuracies >.> then again what am I saying? What historical accuracies?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One of the cheesiest movies I've watched in recent memory, and thats not even getting into the historical inaccuracies >.> then again what am I saying? What historical accuracies?_

 

THIS IS HHHHEEEEEAAAAADDDDD----FFFFFFFFFFIIIIIIIIIIII!


----------



## Tachikoma

Since you started it...

 "When we attack, our headphones will blot out the sun!"

 "So much the better, then we will fight in the shade."

 Head-fied ftw.


----------



## Carl




----------



## _LN_

Silly question: can I safely hook up SR-30 electret 'phones to my pro-bias SRM-3, or would that potentially cause all kinds of pretty fireworks???


----------



## spritzer

They will be fine, just don't drive them to hard


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They will be fine, just don't drive them to hard_

 

OK -- thanks!
 I'm not expecting any miracles out of them, BTW, I'm just curious. And I'm even thinking about cannibalizing them, to use the plug and cable for an adapter to hook my SR-001 up to said SRM-3 (although I'm not sure the cable would have the proper connections to the plug -- I'd have to check that out first). I know Alex of Apuresound makes a fine adapter cable, but it costs almost as much as an entire SR-003...
 And even this would be mostly out of curiosity, since I wouldn't really expect to be listening to the SR-001 more than to the Nova Classic.
 (Does anyone happen to know of an affordable source for a 5 or 6 pin Stax-compatible plug, preferrably in Europe because of shipping cost?)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK -- thanks!
 I'm not expecting any miracles out of them, BTW, I'm just curious. And I'm even thinking about cannibalizing them, to use the plug and cable for an adapter to hook my SR-001 up to said SRM-3 (although I'm not sure the cable would have the proper connections to the plug -- I'd have to check that out first). I know Alex of Apuresound makes a fine adapter cable, but it costs almost as much as an entire SR-003...
 And even this would be mostly out of curiosity, since I wouldn't really expect to be listening to the SR-001 more than to the Nova Classic.
 (Does anyone happen to know of an affordable source for a 5 or 6 pin Stax-compatible plug, preferrably in Europe because of shipping cost?)_

 

The cable has only 4 conductors so it isn't of much use. The Plug has 5 pins but the bias pin isn't connected to any thing so while you could use it, it would be a whole lot of trouble. 

 I don't know of any source in Europe for the plugs but Allied Electronics carries them. You should be able to find them as they are normal 6 pin microphone connectors.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable has only 4 conductors so it isn't of much use. The Plug has 5 pins but the bias pin isn't connected to any thing so while you could use it, it would be a whole lot of trouble. 

 I don't know of any source in Europe for the plugs but Allied Electronics carries them. You should be able to find them as they are normal 6 pin microphone connectors._

 

Oh, OK -- thanks again! You're a veritable goldmine of information! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW, someone is offering an SR-80/SRD-4 set on a Dutch site, for "just" 375 Euros -- anyone interested???


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, someone is offering an SR-80/SRD-4 set on a Dutch site, for "just" 375 Euros -- anyone interested??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe at 1/10 of the price.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, OK -- thanks again! You're a veritable goldmine of information! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have my moments...


----------



## Tachikoma

Since we're back on topic again, has anyone seen this design before? 
http://www.dddac.de/tp08.htm

 A fully differential directly coupled electrostatic amplifier - sounds like my next upgrade path


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My E.9 is nothing like that schematic. The audio transformers have no CT connections and there are no other transformers in the box. The circuit in the cups is very similar though._

 


 Alright, I've dug into my E.9 again. 

 The schematic shows four center-tapped transformers - a separate bias supply for each cup. I think this must have been what we see in Duggeh's E.9 nudie. 

 My E.9 has three center-tapped transformers. The two big ones are obviously the audio trafos. 

 Someone - for all I know, Koss - has added a 22mohm resistor between the center tap of each transformer and what must be the bias supply. Perhaps this provides channel separation when AC biased, since my E.9 has only one bias transformer. 

 The schematic seems to imply that the bias transformers have center-tapped primaries. Weird and confusing, but that appears to be how my bias transformer is set up. Except that the schematic shows one side of the bias primary floating, and both sides and center tap of mine are hooked up. 

 Poking around a bit, I think my AC bias lamp doesn't turn on because it's attached to the center tap of the primary, and is only getting about 57v. 

 I'm only getting 120vac out of the bias transformer secondary, so i think i need to rewire this thing to get proper bias voltage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, I've dug into my E.9 again. 

 The schematic shows four center-tapped transformers - a separate bias supply for each cup. I think this must have been what we see in Duggeh's E.9 nudie. 

 My E.9 has three center-tapped transformers. The two big ones are obviously the audio trafos. 

 Someone - for all I know, Koss - has added a 22mohm resistor between the center tap of each transformer and what must be the bias supply. Perhaps this provides channel separation when AC biased, since my E.9 has only one bias transformer. 

 The schematic seems to imply that the bias transformers have center-tapped primaries. Weird and confusing, but that appears to be how my bias transformer is set up. Except that the schematic shows one side of the bias primary floating, and both sides and center tap of mine are hooked up. 

 Poking around a bit, I think my AC bias lamp doesn't turn on because it's attached to the center tap of the primary, and is only getting about 57v. 

 I'm only getting 120vac out of the bias transformer secondary, so i think i need to rewire this thing to get proper bias voltage._

 

The 22Meg resistor could be from Koss. Beyer used a 2M2 resistor to the CT in the N1000 as you can see here.

 Some of the problems you are seeing in the fact that the unit is made for 220v. Have you tried a step up unit


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 22Meg resistor could be from Koss. Beyer used a 2M2 resistor to the CT in the N1000 as you can see here._

 

Ah, interesting stuff. 

  Quote:


 Some of the problems you are seeing in the fact that the unit is made for 220v. Have you tried a step up unit 
 

Yeah, that's a given. i haven't tried a step-up transformer yet because i don't have one. I'm fairly confident that if i change how the primaries are wired on the bias transformer, it should behave properly. 

 I'm just not totally understanding how they wired it, yaknow? going to have to ping one of the EEs I know.


----------



## Dawoofer

With my E9 it took a couple minutes or less for the light to come on. I don't know if that means anything though.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With my E9 it took a couple minutes or less for the light to come on. I don't know if that means anything though._

 


 Yeah, mine never comes on. I have seen it flash a few times though. 

 There is continuity through it, it's just not seeing enough volts.


----------



## Dawoofer

EricJ, are you "also" watching the E9 on that auction site?


----------



## ericj

Of course i am


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, interesting stuff. 



 Yeah, that's a given. i haven't tried a step-up transformer yet because i don't have one. I'm fairly confident that if i change how the primaries are wired on the bias transformer, it should behave properly. 

 I'm just not totally understanding how they wired it, yaknow? going to have to ping one of the EEs I know._

 

I was able to convert my E9 which was set up for 220 volts, to 117, by switching some connections inside the unit. I.e. it was originally built for mutli-voltage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that's a given. i haven't tried a step-up transformer yet because i don't have one. I'm fairly confident that if i change how the primaries are wired on the bias transformer, it should behave properly. 

 I'm just not totally understanding how they wired it, yaknow? going to have to ping one of the EEs I know._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was able to convert my E9 which was set up for 220 volts, to 117, by switching some connections inside the unit. I.e. it was originally built for mutli-voltage._

 

In my unit there are some markings for 117v and 230v on the main pcb. I never paid much attention to it but it could be worth a shot to retrace it.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since we're back on topic again, has anyone seen this design before? 
http://www.dddac.de/tp08.htm

 A fully differential directly coupled electrostatic amplifier - sounds like my next upgrade path 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd seen that page previously although I've not seen any comments by anyone other than the designer that's heard it. It's an interesting design and I like the thoughts behind it. From my reading of the circuit it's not going to provide the level of power of the ES-1 or Blue Hawaii, etc given the ECC99 output tubes in that configuration but I'm no expert amp builder by any means. Switching to pure speculation mode, I'd guess it'll work better with something like the SR-404 (what it was designed for) than it would with Omega 2s or Sigmas. Very interesting to listen to I expect.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my unit there are some markings for 117v and 230v on the main pcb. I never paid much attention to it but it could be worth a shot to retrace it._

 

Yeah. In mine, there's a post marked "117V" - the AC bias lamp is plugged into this, and the other side goes to AC neutral. 

 The other side of the lamp is connected to the switch, and connects through to the center-tap on the ac bias transformer primary (not secondary). 

 Near the "117v" post there is an empty hole in the board marked "230" - the traces under the board directly connect it to the 117V post, iirc. 

 I'm used to seeing power transformers with dual primaries but the center-tapped primary is a variant i've not worked with.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah. In mine, there's a post marked "117V" - the AC bias lamp is plugged into this, and the other side goes to AC neutral. 

 The other side of the lamp is connected to the switch, and connects through to the center-tap on the ac bias transformer primary (not secondary). 

 Near the "117v" post there is an empty hole in the board marked "230" - the traces under the board directly connect it to the 117V post, iirc. 

 I'm used to seeing power transformers with dual primaries but the center-tapped primary is a variant i've not worked with._

 

I'm not sure how this could be converted. Koss could have made a special version for 230v and that could be the reason why your unit lacks the odd power connector. Was the powercord treminated with the standard US power plug or one of the Euro variants?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure how this could be converted. Koss could have made a special version for 230v and that could be the reason why your unit lacks the odd power connector. Was the powercord treminated with the standard US power plug or one of the Euro variants?_

 


 All i had was three frayed wires sticking out the end of the cord. I trimmed them down a bit and added an appropriately 
 retro-industrial looking black rubber three-prong plug from the hardware store. 

 I'm guessing that the wire that bolts to the frame of the rearward audio transformer is ground. hot vs. neutral is a tossup where the fuse is on one side and the power switch is on the other.


----------



## edstrelow

*CRIMPING SUCKS*

 When I opened the cups of the SRX3's I noticed that Stax had used crimps similar to the God-awful crimps Koss was using on the ESP6 and 9. I took one apart, the bias I think, to check for corrosion, It looked ok but I gave it some Progold to be safe. However there was still the issue of the cable running from the amp, which is crimped to the crimp, if you follow me. So I just splashed some more progold on this too so it would soak into the crimp/cable bond. This seemed to help the sound.

 Then I looked at my Sigma lowbias and splashed the crimps with more Progold and got a fairly noticeable improvement in treble. These were easy to access because the mesh inside the cup was gone and you just needed to poke under the damping material at the bottom of the earcups.

 My question is didn't Stax stop using crimp connectors at some point? I think the 404 is soldered entirely, and what about the Omega?


 On my other project the ESP 6 seems to be opening up with regular use. Tonight they had some real treble, and the volume swings, from what are I assume bias swings, seem to be settling down. I still want to open them up and give the circuit boards a final cleanup.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All i had was three frayed wires sticking out the end of the cord. I trimmed them down a bit and added an appropriately 
 retro-industrial looking black rubber three-prong plug from the hardware store. 

 I'm guessing that the wire that bolts to the frame of the rearward audio transformer is ground. hot vs. neutral is a tossup where the fuse is on one side and the power switch is on the other._

 

I can't really see how you can convert a center tapped trafo with a single primary to 117v. It is further complicated because they only used the live wire and grounded the center tap. I think a step up is the only course of action for now. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*CRIMPING SUCKS*

 When I opened the cups of the SRX3's I noticed that Stax had used crimps similar to the God-awful crimps Koss was using on the ESP6 and 9. I took one apart, the bias I think, to check for corrosion, It looked ok but I gave it some Progold to be safe. However there was still the issue of the cable running from the amp, which is crimped to the crimp, if you follow me. So I just splashed some more progold on this too so it would soak into the crimp/cable bond. This seemed to help the sound.

 Then I looked at my Sigma lowbias and splashed the crimps with more Progold and got a fairly noticeable improvement in treble. These were easy to access because the mesh inside the cup was gone and you just needed to poke under the damping material at the bottom of the earcups.

 My question is didn't Stax stop using crimp connectors at some point? I think the 404 is soldered entirely, and what about the Omega?


 On my other project the ESP 6 seems to be opening up with regular use. Tonight they had some real treble, and the volume swings, from what are I assume bias swings, seem to be settling down. I still want to open them up and give the circuit boards a final cleanup._

 

When Stax switched to molded cables they also started to solder the wires. Before the crimping there were the horrible tiny jewelers screws that made the contact. Believe me, crimping was a giant step forward.


----------



## niels

Got the Raytheon tubes for the 006t today.....


----------



## pojen_h@hotmail.

Hi, I have a question for 4070 owners...

 I recently moved to a new apartment that have central AC, i.e., it generates huge noise during operation. My 404 can't help in this situtation. 

 I am consider 4070, can the owner comments on how good the isolation is? 

 Thx,


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't really see how you can convert a center tapped trafo with a single primary to 117v. It is further complicated because they only used the live wire and grounded the center tap. I think a step up is the only course of action for now._

 


 It's not a center-tapped transformer with a single primary. 

 It's a single-secondary transformer with a center-tapped primary. Which is extremely weird. But that's what i see in my 220v E.9, and the schematic shows a center-tapped primary with one side floating for the 117v version. 

 I'm not confusing the primary and secondary - unless someone intentionally hooked up the transformer backwards. I have continuity from the AC plug to the leads on either side of the center-tap of the transformer, and the bias indicator lamp is hooked up to the center-tap of the primary. fwiw, the lamp is marked as rated for 117v, which is roughly what it would get if the outer leads of the primary were at 230v. 

 Had a chat with an EE last night, who got as far as "Oh, center tapped _primary_?!?!" before his spare time ran out. 

 Admittedly I might not be able to figure out what was going on in the head of whoever designed this thing until i get my hands on a 117v single-bias-transformer E.9. 

 A center-tapped primary is not unheardof, it's just that usually in that situation you're talking about an autotransformer, which wouldn't generally have a secondary.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not a center-tapped transformer with a single primary. 

 It's a single-secondary transformer with a center-tapped primary. Which is extremely weird. But that's what i see in my 220v E.9, and the schematic shows a center-tapped primary with one side floating for the 117v version. 

 I'm not confusing the primary and secondary - unless someone intentionally hooked up the transformer backwards. I have continuity from the AC plug to the leads on either side of the center-tap of the transformer, and the bias indicator lamp is hooked up to the center-tap of the primary. fwiw, the lamp is marked as rated for 117v, which is roughly what it would get if the outer leads of the primary were at 230v. 

 Had a chat with an EE last night, who got as far as "Oh, center tapped primary?!?!" before his spare time ran out. 

 Admittedly I might not be able to figure out what was going on in the head of whoever designed this thing until i get my hands on a 117v single-bias-transformer E.9. 

 A center-tapped primary is not unheardof, it's just that usually in that situation you're talking about an autotransformer, which wouldn't generally have a secondary._

 

Someone could have rearranged the trafos but I don't see why. This is a very strange setup but you could always replace the trafo with a similar item. You also always fit a 10w stepup inside the E.9 

 I would post pictures of my E.9 if they would help but there is just a large PCB instead of the iron. It appears to have been modified by Koss because the cover still has the holes and screws that would attach to the upper platform where the other transformers are.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone could have rearranged the trafos but I don't see why. This is a very strange setup but you could always replace the trafo with a similar item. You also always fit a 10w stepup inside the E.9_

 

If i go that route, I'll just replace the trafo with a setup similar to the stax amps, and from the sound of it, your e.9.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got the Raytheon tubes for the 006t today....._

 

I received a handful of NOS Raytheon tubes today as well. Which will be used in my SRM-007t.
 Should be fun!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If i go that route, I'll just replace the trafo with a setup similar to the stax amps, and from the sound of it, your e.9._

 

I would also do that. I think they might sound much better in a real push-pull configuration.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would also do that. I think they might sound much better in a real push-pull configuration._

 

I only meant rebuilding the bias supply, but I've considered getting another E.9 to use while i dig the transformers out of the one i've got now and build an SRD-7 circuit around them. 

 One of my EE friends has suggested how to rewire the bias transformer in my e.9, going to give it a shot tonight.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only meant rebuilding the bias supply, but I've considered getting another E.9 to use while i dig the transformers out of the one i've got now and build an SRD-7 circuit around them. 

 One of my EE friends has suggested how to rewire the bias transformer in my e.9, going to give it a shot tonight._

 

You can always build a voltage quadrupler circuit for the bias and let the the transformers be as they are.


----------



## edstrelow

I was thinking about converting a low bias SRX3 to pro.

 On a whim, I called the US Stax distributor and service center, Yamasinc and asked if they could rebuild a Stax SRX3 Pro. I was told that the drivers are out of production but could possibly be remade, persumably by Stax Japan, fpr about $400-500.00.

 Still thinking.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was thinking about converting a low bias SRX3 to pro.

 On a whim, I called the US Stax distributor and service center, Yamasinc and asked if they could rebuild a Stax SRX3 Pro. I was told that the drivers are out of production but could possibly be remade, persumably by Stax Japan, fpr about $400-500.00.

 Still thinking._

 

That is quite a bit of change. I'm not so sure the SR-X Pro is superior on all fronts to the old version. I know it will sound different but I personally prefer the normal models for sheer musicality and enjoyment. 

 I have been looking into modding my set to a Pro standard and it can be done with the right spacers and some precision tools. All you have to do is enlarge the space inside the driver by 0.2mm in each side and drill new holes for the guide pins. This is easy but the real problem is the way the diaphragm is tensioned inside the driver by the driver housing. Modding that will be a pain but it can be done. They will sound different from the production version so it is in fact a new phone all together.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I have a question for 4070 owners...

 I recently moved to a new apartment that have central AC, i.e., it generates huge noise during operation. My 404 can't help in this situtation. 

 I am consider 4070, can the owner comments on how good the isolation is? 

 Thx,_

 

When I was borrowing some 4070s the isolation seemed pretty good. If I have my TV on in the background I can easily hear it through my Omega 2s whereas with the 4070 I could barely tell it was on. I'd say they isolate as well as any closed headphone I've tried, the only way to get more would be to use IEMs.


----------



## evil-zen

The horror! End of the world! Stax thread on the 4th page! Never in History! 

 Anyway, does anyone have inner pics of Koss ESP-950?


----------



## ericj

Sorry i dropped the ball on that, I ended up working on another project last night and didn't attempt to rewire my E.9 yet.


----------



## spritzer

Because I'm suffering from slight withdrawal I had to post something...

 I got my Marantz SE/EE-1 today and with them mostly fixed it is a big let down like all of the Stax OEM's. While they are better then the Magnavox it isn't by much and the coiled cord is only about a meter long. I will post further impressions and some pictures tomorrow.


----------



## ericj

So was it the stator wires like you'd predicted?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, does anyone have inner pics of Koss ESP-950?_

 

Alex might. Given the difficulty of reassembling them, I'd rather pull mine to bits.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alex might. Given the difficulty of reassembling them, I'd rather pull mine to bits._

 

Nope. I never took pictures. If someone sends me another ESP950 for modding I will take pictures this time and post on here for everyone to see.

 -Alex-


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was thinking about converting a low bias SRX3 to pro.

 On a whim, I called the US Stax distributor and service center, Yamasinc and asked if they could rebuild a Stax SRX3 Pro. I was told that the drivers are out of production but could possibly be remade, persumably by Stax Japan, fpr about $400-500.00.

 Still thinking._

 

Any chance of a bulk for SRXmk3 pro drivers? How many orders do we need before the price comes down to something more reasonable? ($200~)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any chance of a bulk for SRXmk3 drivers? How many orders do we need before the price comes down to something more reasonable? ($200~)_

 

The price he listed wasn't for new drivers, it was for a remanufacturing of old drivers to have a different thickness spacer.

 Given the price it'd be cheaper to buy a Gamma Pro and rip the drivers out.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price he listed wasn't for new drivers, it was for a remanufacturing of old drivers to have a different thickness spacer.

 Given the price it'd be cheaper to buy a Gamma Pro and rip the drivers out._

 

Possibly I mispoke about "remade." I understood this to mean new drivers made to the SRX3 pro spec by Stax. However I haven't followed it up to be sure. I take your point about the cheaper route.

 Still it's nice to think that it might be possible to get Stax to make small orders.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still it's nice to think that it might be possible to get Stax to make small orders._

 

Well Stax have always been open to OEMs, buf if you can do that, why not get them to make Omega 1 drivers or something instead?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So was it the stator wires like you'd predicted?_

 

Nope, they were fine but the stators are extremely corroded, there are holes in the mylar and some connection issues so I replaced them with a spare set of Magnavox drivers I had. The drivers are identical and sort of a person child of the SR-3, SR-5 and the SR-X Mk3. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price he listed wasn't for new drivers, it was for a remanufacturing of old drivers to have a different thickness spacer.

 Given the price it'd be cheaper to buy a Gamma Pro and rip the drivers out._

 

It is much easier to make a driver from scratch if you still have the molds rather then modify and old one. It isn't easy to modify the system that tensions the diaphragm but it can be done. It's not like a lambda driver where you replace the spacer with a slightly thicker one and that's it. There aren't any spacers in the old Stax drivers.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There aren't any spacers in the old Stax drivers._

 

Sure there are, that aluminised ring.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure there are, that aluminised ring._

 

Nope it isn't a spacer. It's the plastic around the stator that sets the D/S spacing, the metal ring is to add to the tensioning and make production easier. The 4 springs (or one big one in the older models) push the ring down to add to the tension and it is also a good way in theory to conduct bias. The truth is that the steel and brass in the bias have some sort of a galvanizing effect and produce a thin level of corrosion. This causes channel imbalance and other nasty things. 

 It would be possible to add 0.2mm spacers on both sides of the stators and under the the metal ring and that should turn them into pro. That's a very thin material you need and it has to be even thinner to take into account the thickness of any glue that will be used.


----------



## johnmatrix

Hey I would just like to check in with some DIY updates. I decided to upgrade up SRD-6/SB with some new wire after what was written in the old thread. I replaced the wire connecting the amp to the transformer unit with some silver coated copper wire and bypassed the cheap pos rotary switch. This meant the board was directly connected to the amp. This difference is quite frankly amazing. The soundstage is deeper and more 3D. The sound is also less harsh. If you are thinking about doing this do it, bypass that cheap switch it's killing your sound!


----------



## mikeg

I guess that, at least for now, I'll stick with my motto, which is "if it sounds good, it is good". 

 BTW, another posting regarding the GES is #463 at http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...236593&page=19

 So far there are only complementary postings about this amp.


----------



## akwok

Can't wait to get mine in about 2 weeks (hopefully!).


----------



## basb

Here is an update about a question I had somewhere earlier in this thread, I was waiting for this amp, opera cyber 30. I bought it to power my HD600, diy fostex speakers, and hopefully, srd7pro with lamba pro. According to the replies it's possible, but without enough voltage swing.

 I'm right now listening to it, but not with the lamba's. It did work however, but it didn't sound very interesting. Everything was there, the music, volume wasn't a problem, but somehow it sounded dead and uninspired. It's hard to describe but I guess that's the lack of voltage swing.

 Now the problem is, I like the lambdas out of my old marantz amp, but right now I prefer hd600 with cyber 30 by a large margin. It has a very bold, somewhat warm sound with big soundstage and clarity. I have to test the lambdas with a capable amp because I'm not sure what to do, sell the stax stuff, or buy another nice amp, with more power.....

 Anyhow, I'd like to thank everyone here for the advice and explanations!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Hmm, so to bump this to the top, I have a question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm looking to buy a low power amp, but how many watts do I need to drive a SR-X MKIII w/ transformer box?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, so to bump this to the top, I have a question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm looking to buy a low power amp, but how many watts do I need to drive a SR-X MKIII w/ transformer box?_

 

If I recall correctly Stax recommend a 25W amp although I'm happily running mine from a 100W amp and some find even higher wattage is okay. Needless to say with more power you won't need to turn the amp up as high to get the same volume (i.e. you won't actually be using all that wattage). The volume is essentially related to the voltage swing generated so as long as you get an amp that meets the minimum requirements and don't overdo it I would think all will be well. One point worth noting is that the likes of the Omega IIs/Sigmas Pros require more voltage swing and hence require more wattage from the amp all being equal. Due to that I'd recommend not cutting it too fine with something underpowered if there's a chance you might want to use the amp with other electrostatics later.


----------



## spritzer

10w should be plenty and you could even go much lower then that. Depends on the amp in question.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Hmm, I see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was thinking of a getting something along the lines of a 10w tube amp, but I'm not sure. It's just a random thing that popped into my head over the last few days. We'll see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, I see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was thinking of a getting something along the lines of a 10w tube amp, but I'm not sure. It's just a random thing that popped into my head over the last few days. We'll see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm inclined to think Spritzer is correct about 10W being fine. When powering the SR-X Mk3 on my 100W amp I'm barely ever above 1/5th volume. Definitely doesn't need a lot.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm inclined to think Spritzer is correct about 10W being fine. When powering the SR-X Mk3 on my 100W amp I'm barely ever above 1/5th volume. Definitely doesn't need a lot._

 

It will depend on what amp you use. Some of these low powered amps have an optimistic at best power rating. I use a 40w amp and I have to run it on low gain to have any range on the volume control. Stepped volume pots have never been a good idea...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm inclined to think Spritzer is correct about 10W being fine. When powering the SR-X Mk3 on my 100W amp I'm barely ever above 1/5th volume. Definitely doesn't need a lot._

 

Your volume control position is related to voltage gain not power. You can have a high gain low powered amp that gets the phones loud at a low volume control setting and have a low gain high powered amp that requires a much higher volume control setting. The lower powered amp will run out of steam well before the volume control is at full. Many companies do not give a gain or input sensitivity spec for full output.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Ah, I see, makes sense. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the help! I'll see what amps interest me and then I'll ask you guys here.

 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## basb

About the volume control, the amp I tried has 3.5w/channel and 9 o'clock on the volume dial was already a little too loud so that wasn't the problem.


----------



## Carl

Got the Gamma Pros today, but there's something wrong with them.

 The sound from music is just fine, but the left driver is making popping/rumbling sounds, akin to the sound of rain outside. Possibly due to a puncture in one of the mylar sheets or some gunk caught inside. The soldering on the cable appears to be fine. Unfortunately the baffle has been designed so you can't open them up the way you could with the SRX, preventing me getting in there.

 From what listening I did do, the sound quality was fine, if a tad bright. Despite what pictures might tell you the earcups are utterly tiny; if they were any smaller they'd be supraaural rather than circumaural.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About the volume control, the amp I tried has 3.5w/channel and 9 o'clock on the volume dial was already a little too loud so that wasn't the problem._

 

Hmmm, cool. I see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Wait, these are from the SRD-7 transformer box?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got the Gamma Pros today, but there's something wrong with them.

 The sound from music is just fine, but the left driver is making popping/rumbling sounds, akin to the sound of rain outside. Possibly due to a puncture in one of the mylar sheets or some gunk caught inside. The soldering on the cable appears to be fine. Unfortunately *the baffle has been designed so you can't open them up the way you could with the SRX, preventing me getting in there.*_

 


 Really? I thought they were no different from the SR-5 when it comes to the ease of opening them up. The only screws are under the pads, after that its exactly the same as the SR-5/X.

  Quote:


 From what listening I did do, the sound quality was fine, if a tad bright. Despite what pictures might tell you *the earcups are utterly tiny*; if they were any smaller they'd be supraaural rather than circumaural. 
 

A pair of alfa excellent pads should fix that up nicely. Not sure if revaud has any left though.


----------



## ericj

iirc the SRD-7 docs say that the maximum continuous power handling is 8 watts. Max peak is 10. 

 Most of that has got to be voltage swing rather than current sink.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? I thought they were no different from the SR-5 when it comes to the ease of opening them up. The only screws are under the pads, after that its exactly the same as the SR-5/X._

 

Getting in is even easier than the SRX (although metal screws into softish PET plastic is pretty dumb idea). 

 The problem is that the injection molded baffle has a raised circle around where the drivers go preventing you from getting at the screws without physically removing the driver itself. And given that it's glued in there pretty strongly that's easier said than done.

  Quote:


 A pair of alfa excellent pads should fix that up nicely. Not sure if revaud has any left though. 
 

It has AE pads. Both pads are the same size inside anyway.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 The problem is that the injection molded baffle has a raised circle around where the drivers go preventing you from getting at the screws without physically removing the driver itself. And given that it's glued in there pretty strongly that's easier said than done. 
 

Oh yeah, that thing <_< I got the drivers off with a screwdriver quite easily, though.

  Quote:


 It has AE pads. Both pads are the same size inside anyway. 
 

Maybe I have small ears, but the AE pads are more than big enough for me.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh yeah, that thing <_< I got the drivers off with a screwdriver quite easily, though._

 

Yes, that thing. What a completely pointless addition to the design.

 I don't really want to start hacking away with a screwdriver around all the fragile contents inside, but it may come to that.

  Quote:


 Maybe I have small ears, but the AE pads are more than big enough for me. 
 

Mine are more in the range of an elephant or rhinoceros.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got the Gamma Pros today, but there's something wrong with them.

 The sound from music is just fine, but the left driver is making popping/rumbling sounds, akin to the sound of rain outside. Possibly due to a puncture in one of the mylar sheets or some gunk caught inside. The soldering on the cable appears to be fine. Unfortunately the baffle has been designed so you can't open them up the way you could with the SRX, preventing me getting in there.

 From what listening I did do, the sound quality was fine, if a tad bright. Despite what pictures might tell you the earcups are utterly tiny; if they were any smaller they'd be supraaural rather than circumaural._

 

It would be either a hole in the diaphragm or some part of the dustcover interfering with the stators. If the back dustcover is intact there shouldn't be any debris or dirt inside the driver.


----------



## basb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, cool. I see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Wait, these are from the SRD-7 transformer box?_

 

Yes, the srd-7 PRO, I used to have a SB MK2, but that one needed about 10 o'clock on a 40w/channel amp for normal listening.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be either a hole in the diaphragm or some part of the dustcover interfering with the stators. If the back dustcover is intact there shouldn't be any debris or dirt inside the driver._

 

The back dustcover is completely perfect (ie, it could pass for new). The front cover looks a bit rough, but no noticable holes. Perhaps a tiny bit may have crumbled off it, but that seems unlikely given it's boPET film not polyetheline. I haven't looked at the diaphragm due to it being unreachable without yanking the drivers off (something I'd only do as a last resort, they're glued in there pretty hard), and that leaves the stators.

 Given that the sound of stats audibly degrades when either the dustcovers or the diaphragm is loose, and yet these sound exactly as they should, I'm thinking it's stator related currently. As it's not a constant hissing but more of a flickity sound, if there's something stuck in it it must be loose rather than stuck to it.


 In any case, despite the issue I am able to appriciate the GP's sound. It's actually a lot closer to th SRX in sound than I was predicting it to be. As is common when comparing a low bias to high bias stats of similar design, both the strengths and weaknesses of the design are exaggerated. The SRX's midrange colouration - something I originally put down to the housing - is much easier to hear with these. 

 The overall sound reminds me a lot of the ESP950; bright, with great PRAT and good resolution. The GPs are a lot less ill-mannered than the 950s, are slightly less congested, and have another half octave or so in the bass. On the flipside they aren't as envelloping, have less body, are rolled off in the frequency extremes, and don't have the Koss' amazing phase accuracy. Given an either or choice I'd opt for the Koss personally, but the GPs would work better as an only headphone than the temperamental 950s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The back dustcover is completely perfect (ie, it could pass for new). The front cover looks a bit rough, but no noticable holes. Perhaps a tiny bit may have crumbled off it, but that seems unlikely given it's boPET film not polyetheline. I haven't looked at the diaphragm due to it being unreachable without yanking the drivers off (something I'd only do as a last resort, they're glued in there pretty hard), and that leaves the stators.

 Given that the sound of stats audibly degrades when either the dustcovers or the diaphragm is loose, and yet these sound exactly as they should, I'm thinking it's stator related currently. As it's not a constant hissing but more of a flickity sound, if there's something stuck in it it must be loose rather than stuck to it.


 In any case, despite the issue I am able to appriciate the GP's sound. It's actually a lot closer to th SRX in sound than I was predicting it to be. As is common when comparing a low bias to high bias stats of similar design, both the strengths and weaknesses of the design are exaggerated. The SRX's midrange colouration - something I originally put down to the housing - is much easier to hear with these. 

 The overall sound reminds me a lot of the ESP950; bright, with great PRAT and good resolution. The GPs are a lot less ill-mannered than the 950s, are slightly less congested, and have another half octave or so in the bass. On the flipside they aren't as envelloping, have less body, are rolled off in the frequency extremes, and don't have the Koss' amazing phase accuracy. Given an either or choice I'd opt for the Koss personally, but the GPs would work better as an only headphone than the temperamental 950s._

 

The front dustcover should look a bit uneven though Stax did use mylar as dust covers for some models. There is more more thing that could cause this and that is the second ring that holds the diaphragm could be loose and is making contact with the stators. This has happened to me before when I was lazy and didn't bother to glue it properly. 

 So they do have that same boxed in midrange? I'm getting a set of normal bias Gamma's so I'll be able to compare them on a pretty level playing field. The same cable on both phones so only the housing will be different. 

 All this talk about the 950's is making me want one quite badly...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The front dustcover should look a bit uneven though Stax did use mylar as dust covers for some models. There is more more thing that could cause this and that is the second ring that holds the diaphragm could be loose and is making contact with the stators. This has happened to me before when I was lazy and didn't bother to glue it properly._

 

Finding the motivation to rip them appart will be tough. I've been way too busy for anything beyond listening to my 'stats recently anyway,

  Quote:


 So they do have that same boxed in midrange? I'm getting a set of normal bias Gamma's so I'll be able to compare them on a pretty level playing field. The same cable on both phones so only the housing will be different. 
 

I've never been too sure exactly how "boxed in" sounds, so I wouldn't use that adjective. There is something there, though. With the SRX I could never put my finger on it, but with the GP, which has the problem to a greater extent, I'm beginning to grasp it. The effect reminds me a bit of the way the sound of an electric guitar changes when a compressor pedal is used, giving the music a sort of contrained "crunch". It reminds me a lot of the Audio Technica upper-mid colouration, not so much because it sounds at all alike, but in the pervasiveness of the effect, and the way that it's audible with so much music but the effect is generally more "oh that" than necessarily problematic. In any case, it affects the GP more than it does the SRXmk3.

  Quote:


 All this talk about the 950's is making me want one quite badly... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

You should listen at least. It has quite a strong mix of strengths and weaknesses. It's got quite an "American" personality (hopefully that statement won't get me into trouble with our Stateside readers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Make sure you use a proper amp rather than the E/90, of course. I expect Mullard EL34s would tame it significantly, which would be both a good and a bad thing I suspect.

 If you want to pay the shipping I'd have no issue lending you mine.



 Oh, and one thing I forget to mention; the GPs are ridiculously efficient headphones. I'm riding "0" to get a comfortable volume from them.


----------



## saint.panda

Sorry to always butt into this thread with irrelevant questions but anyways: which of the readily available Stax amps (ebay or new) do you guys think would be a good temporary solution for the HE90? The SRM-T1 wasn't so great and not a lot better than the much smaller SRM-Xh that I borrowed instead. Maybe a 323A for $500 from pricejapan?
 Thanks to the ever-knowledgable Stax crowd.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to always butt into this thread with irrelevant questions but anyways: which of the readily available Stax amps (ebay or new) do you guys think would be a good temporary solution for the HE90? The SRM-T1 wasn't so great and not a lot better than the much smaller SRM-Xh that I borrowed instead. Maybe a 323A for $500 from pricejapan?
 Thanks to the ever-knowledgable Stax crowd. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well how temporary is it going to be? If it's just for a short while just get something cheap, like an Xh/212/252, but if you're planning on making it a while then you'll have to a do somewhat of a cost/benefit on it.

 Thankfully the Senns are fairly easy to drive, unlike the O2s, so it won't sound like smelly turds out of Stax's cheaper amps.


----------



## saint.panda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well how temporary is it going to be? If it's just for a short while just get something cheap, like an Xh/212/252, but if you're planning on making it a while then you'll have to a do somewhat of a cost/benefit on it.

 Thankfully the Senns are fairly easy to drive, unlike the O2s, so it won't sound like smelly turds out of Stax's cheaper amps._

 

Just till July. I have a Xh at the moment. Would something a bit more expensive (323A e.g. or something more sophisticated like an 006t) be worth it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finding the motivation to rip them appart will be tough. I've been way too busy for anything beyond listening to my 'stats recently anyway,_

 

Just be careful if you want to remove the driver that you don't rip it apart because most of the glue is on the dustcover and not the frame it self. I ripped the dustcover off when I replaced the drivers in the Marantz SE-1. Easy to fix but unnecessary. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been too sure exactly how "boxed in" sounds, so I wouldn't use that adjective. There is something there, though. With the SRX I could never put my finger on it, but with the GP, which has the problem to a greater extent, I'm beginning to grasp it. The effect reminds me a bit of the way the sound of an electric guitar changes when a compressor pedal is used, giving the music a sort of contrained "crunch". It reminds me a lot of the Audio Technica upper-mid colouration, not so much because it sounds at all alike, but in the pervasiveness of the effect, and the way that it's audible with so much music but the effect is generally more "oh that" than necessarily problematic. In any case, it affects the GP more than it does the SRXmk3._

 

It sounds like the voices are recorded in a defined space and you can hear the boundaries of that space. I suppose it is in part the housings fault because it creates a tunnel effect. The wool diffuses it a bit but it is still there. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should listen at least. It has quite a strong mix of strengths and weaknesses. It's got quite an "American" personality (hopefully that statement won't get me into trouble with our Stateside readers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Make sure you use a proper amp rather than the E/90, of course. I expect Mullard EL34s would tame it significantly, which would be both a good and a bad thing I suspect.

 If you want to pay the shipping I'd have no issue lending you mine.

 Oh, and one thing I forget to mention; the GPs are ridiculously efficient headphones. I'm riding "0" to get a comfortable volume from them._

 

I'm going to get one, it is more a question of when. I haven't had much time with my stats as of late and some of the new ones I have barely used. 

 I would take you up on your offer if I would have the time to use them so I'm going to have Alex recable a set for me in June when things die down a little. Then I need a set of ESP10's and I have the whole Koss lineup if you count my hybrid ESP6/7. Then I'll convert the ESP9 to the Stax standard and modify the E.9 by installing the circuits in the ear cups inside the adapter so the system will not have changed as whole.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just till July. I have a Xh at the moment. Would something a bit more expensive (323A e.g. or something more sophisticated like an 006t) be worth it?_

 

I'd suggest just buying a very juicy power brick (or better yet, a bench supply) for it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just till July. I have a Xh at the moment. Would something a bit more expensive (323A e.g. or something more sophisticated like an 006t) be worth it?_

 

The 313 is a horrible match so I'd guess the 323 is to. The 006t isn't that much different then the T1 so it's more of as sideways move. I like the T1 a lot but I've upgraded mine and tuberolled it. The transformers could be a cheap solution because there is plenty of the SRD-7 Mk2's floating around. The He90 isn't all that picky about amps compared to the SR-007


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just be careful if you want to remove the driver that you don't rip it apart because most of the glue is on the dustcover and not the frame it self. I ripped the dustcover off when I replaced the drivers in the Marantz SE-1. Easy to fix but unnecessary._

 

I really wish Stax wouldn't insist on using glue like that. What's so bad about a few screws?

  Quote:


 It sounds like the voices are recorded in a defined space and you can hear the boundaries of that space. I suppose it is in part the housings fault because it creates a tunnel effect. The wool diffuses it a bit but it is still there. 
 

That's not what bothers me anyway. The colouration I'm noticing doesn't appear to sound like that. The Gamma Pro has next to no damping material, next to no diffusion effect, either.

  Quote:


 I'm going to get one, it is more a question of when. I haven't had much time with my stats as of late and some of the new ones I have barely used. 
 

Yes, it's been the same for me. Actually, I need to sell some to make some space, it's just very hard to part with them.

  Quote:


 I would take you up on your offer if I would have the time to use them so I'm going to have Alex recable a set for me in June when things die down a little. Then I need a set of ESP10's and I have the whole Koss lineup if you count my hybrid ESP6/7. Then I'll convert the ESP9 to the Stax standard and modify the E.9 by installing the circuits in the ear cups inside the adapter so the system will not have changed as whole. 
 

Hearing you're ESP10 impressions will be interesting.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really wish Stax wouldn't insist on using glue like that. What's so bad about a few screws?_

 

Cost. The SR-1/3/5 driver mounting is a pretty good system, clamping a driver between two hard places will always make it sound much better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's not what bothers me anyway. The colouration I'm noticing doesn't appear to sound like that. The Gamma Pro has next to no damping material, next to no diffusion effect, either._

 

The coloration is pretty obvious if you remove the wool inside the SR-X. These phones should sound very different because the housing plays a huge part. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it's been the same for me. Actually, I need to sell some to make some space, it's just very hard to part with them._

 

Sell phones...???? Is that possible? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 People are starting to complain about the amount of phones I have so friends and relatives are going to get some of the doubles as gifts or on extended loans. I can't bring my self to sell any of them...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hearing you're ESP10 impressions will be interesting._

 

I have a line on a set but it is pretty beat up so I'll wait a bit. I also need another ESP9 as a headband donor. The ESP7 project is about 90% finished but I still can't find my stepped drills to mount the Stax jacks and I refuse to buy new ones. These things cost a fortune.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cost. The SR-1/3/5 driver mounting is a pretty good system, clamping a driver between two hard places will always make it sound much better._

 

Cost makes no sense as a reason. The SR1/3/5/X are full of screws, they just aren't used to mount the driver. 

  Quote:


 The coloration is pretty obvious if you remove the wool inside the SR-X. These phones should sound very different because the housing plays a huge part. 
 

It sounds different to these set of ears, anyway, but at least we agree that there's definately a colouration there.

 The effect is stronger on the GPs than a woolless SRX.

  Quote:


 Sell phones...???? Is that possible? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

It'll have to be. I want to get myself a Micro Seiki TT, and there is no other way I can afford one. The only problem is deciding which ones.

 I bought my collection more because I wanted to hear them than because I wanted to own them anyway. Aside from the Chinese HE90 clone and the ET1000, I've only got the big expensive ones left. After that I aught to try some AMTs, I guess.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cost makes no sense as a reason. The SR1/3/5/X are full of screws, they just aren't used to mount the driver._

 

The screws hold together the front and the back and the driver is sandwiched between them. Beyer took the extra mile but in turn the driver is held together by screws and is an integral part of the housing and that in turn makes it very hard to troubleshoot. 

 Personally I like to mount the driver with screws and then clamp it between the front and back of the earcup. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It sounds different to these set of ears, anyway, but at least we agree that there's definately a colouration there.

 The effect is stronger on the GPs than a woolless SRX._

 

There is definite coloration coloration there but that doesn't hurt the SR-X that much. The SR-Lambda has this strange etch or artifact in the upper treble but they are still my favorite vintage Stax. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It'll have to be. I want to get myself a Micro Seiki TT, and there is no other way I can afford one. The only problem is deciding which ones.

 I bought my collection more because I wanted to hear them than because I wanted to own them anyway. Aside from the Chinese HE90 clone and the ET1000, I've only got the big expensive ones left. After that I aught to try some AMTs, I guess._

 

I'm so glad that I've managed to control the vinyl bug. The Esoteric X-01 or APL NWO-2.5T itch grows stronger every day... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Those He90 clones are really starting to interest me. Have you seen any pictures of them or know any of the specs?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


 There is definite coloration coloration there but that doesn't hurt the SR-X that much. The SR-Lambda has this strange etch or artifact in the upper treble but they are still my favorite vintage Stax. 
 

I never was much of a fan of the lambda colouration. It messes with voices, and that's one thing I can't really live with even if they're otherwise more technically competant. It'll probably result in me selling the SC-1, despite its strengths.

  Quote:


 Those He90 clones are really starting to interest me. Have you seen any pictures of them or know any of the specs? 
 

Not a hell of a lot, but I'll definately give them a swing sometime. I hope they stop using that stupid connector and use either the Stax/Allied or the HE90/Fischer connector. Of course, one shouldn't go in expecting it to outperform the HE90 and O2, but that isn't the point. Reports so far have suggested that there's some definate price-performance there. The cable in their prototype scares me.

 From the look of their amp design it's based on Stax's ancient 12AT7/12AT7/6FQ7 design, which might make it a great alternative to the entry level Stax amps assuming the price is right, but it won't probably be worthy of the headphone.


----------



## educator

Does anyone know how much the chinese he90's will cost and/or where to buy them?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know how much the chinese he90's will cost and/or where to buy them?_

 

I'd had at least two people mention "$800", but I have no idea how much weight that carries, or whether it includes the amp, and how much the amp would cost if not.

 The design's still a prototype, so you can't buy it yet. I guess when the time comes it shouldn't be too hard to track down the makers, although I hope at least one of them speaks English as my Mandarin is laughable.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never was much of a fan of the lambda colouration. It messes with voices, and that's one thing I can't really live with even if they're otherwise more technically competant. It'll probably result in me selling the SC-1, despite its strengths._

 

I've never been as fond of any Lambda like my completely open Sr-Lambdas. They have this wholeness to the sound that is very appealing. I'm going to build a wood housing for them so they should change quite a bit with that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a hell of a lot, but I'll definately give them a swing sometime. I hope they stop using that stupid connector and use either the Stax/Allied or the HE90/Fischer connector. Of course, one shouldn't go in expecting it to outperform the HE90 and O2, but that isn't the point. Reports so far have suggested that there's some definate price-performance there. The cable in their prototype scares me.

 From the look of their amp design it's based on Stax's ancient 12AT7/12AT7/6FQ7 design, which might make it a great alternative to the entry level Stax amps assuming the price is right, but it won't probably be worthy of the headphone.









_

 

Really bad woodworking aside these could be great. I hope they change the cable and connector but sourcing a HV 6 core ribbon cable isn't easy. It has to be custom made and the connectors as well if they are to be molded. They should sound good and be better then a SR-404 do to the bigger diaphragm. I can't wait to get a set... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you know whose importing them into the US?

 The amp looks like the old SR-3 design and while that was good in 1968 it will be far outclassed today. If they can make it cheap enough it will be a great budget contender, especially if they put a Stax connectors on it. 

 BTW. In the May issue of Stereophile there is a short review of the SR-007/SRM-007tII by Michael Fremer in the Analog Corner. He likes them but finds that they lack dynamics compared to the likes of AKG 701's.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really bad woodworking aside these could be great. I hope they change the cable and connector but sourcing a HV 6 core ribbon cable isn't easy. It has to be custom made and the connectors as well if they are to be molded. They should sound good and be better then a SR-404 do to the bigger diaphragm. I can't wait to get a set... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you know whose importing them into the US?_

 

I don't see why it _has_ to be a ribbon cable. Some multicore cables (Mogami's one, for instance) have comfortably low capacitance. Not or the calibre of the OCC cables Stax use, perhaps, but enough not to drag the ship down.

 I don't think any distributer has been worked out yet given it's still a prototype. Thankfully I do have a few connections so scoring one for myself should be realistic even without one.

  Quote:


 The amp looks like the old SR-3 design and while that was good in 1968 it will be far outclassed today. If they can make it cheap enough it will be a great budget contender, especially if they put a Stax connectors on it. 
 

It almost certainly is Stax's design. It's held up pretty well to the test of time, hasn't it? Not exactly my favourite tube compliment of course.

 Hopefully the makers will see the potential market for a low-cost all tube 'stat amp and price it competitively rather than treat it as just a means of selling their headphone.


----------



## derekbmn

Wow finally get to see some decent pics of the Orpheus clones. If and when they become available, I would be in for a pair. It would be nice if it would have a STAX cable/connector. There are some brief impressions on them in the Headfest thread . Very interesting.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow finally get to see some decent pics of the Orpheus clones. If and when they become available, I would be in for a pair. It would be nice if it would have a STAX cable/connector. There are some brief impressions on them in the Headfest thread . Very interesting._

 

I don't think they should really be looked on as clones as they seem to only borrow cosmetic cues. Construction seems to be far more orthodox than the HE90, no fancy glass fiber or anything. It'd be more constructive to just think of then as a headphone in their own right and judged purely on their performance and not let their appearance affect one's impressions and expectations.


----------



## derekbmn

I'm also curious as to who has the pair in the U.S. that has had them to at least two meets. Anyone know....


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think they should really be looked on as clones as they seem to only borrow cosmetic cues. Construction seems to be far more orthodox than the HE90, no fancy glass fiber or anything. It'd be more constructive to just think of then as a headphone in their own right and judged purely on their performance and not let their appearance affect one's impressions and expectations._

 

Agreed !!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm also curious as to who has the pair in the U.S. that has had them to at least two meets. Anyone know...._

 

It has been mentioned in some meet thread who had it, but I have like zero chance of finding it myself, especially given its coming up to 4am.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't see why it has to be a ribbon cable. Some multicore cables (Mogami's one, for instance) have comfortably low capacitance. Not or the calibre of the OCC cables Stax use, perhaps, but enough not to drag the ship down.

 I don't think any distributer has been worked out yet given it's still a prototype. Thankfully I do have a few connections so scoring one for myself should be realistic even without one._

 

The capacitance is a factor but comfort is much bigger IMO. The ribbon cables can use bigger conductors and still be soft and subtle. 

 I've been looking into the Mogami cables as a cheaper option then having some cables custom made. The thought of spending a huge amount on some reels of cable isn't very appealing right now. Some of the Mogami models fit the bill but the voltage rating is on the low side. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It almost certainly is Stax's design. It's held up pretty well to the test of time, hasn't it? Not exactly my favourite tube compliment of course.

 Hopefully the makers will see the potential market for a low-cost all tube 'stat amp and price it competitively rather than treat it as just a means of selling their headphone._

 

While the tubes aren't the best they are all in production so there are no supply issues. It's a solid little amp that should work very well in the budget part of the market. 

 Adding a Stax connector (both Pro and normal) to a cheap amp with good build quality and sound will make it an instant best seller. Pair it with a New SR-3 for a great introduction into electrostats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think they should really be looked on as clones as they seem to only borrow cosmetic cues. Construction seems to be far more orthodox than the HE90, no fancy glass fiber or anything. It'd be more constructive to just think of then as a headphone in their own right and judged purely on their performance and not let their appearance affect one's impressions and expectations._

 

I agree. It isn't a clone though it has taken a bit more from the He90 then just the looks. The driver look to be constructed in a similar fashion but from different materials. We also don't know the bias voltage or the diaphragm thickness.


----------



## ericj

Page THREE?!

 I have officially joined Team Vintage Stax - I bought Duderuud's SR-30 for a buck. 

 Still no energizer, but i have an SR-84 (possibly Pro) kit on the way. 

 Anyway, these were so cheap because Duderuud says there is a bad channel imbalance. How do i open the earcups to investigate?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, these were so cheap because Duderuud says there is a bad channel imbalance. How do i open the earcups to investigate?_

 

Well the first generation of Stax 'trets are super easy. _Too_ easy, in fact, you just pull the metal "forks" appart and the back will fall off. Sometimes it will pull itself to bits when you move your head or reach for the remote control, too.







 Then Stax redesigned the headband to stop this, resulting in this design. I believe there is a simple screw joining the fork and housing (metal screw, plastic fork/housing. Damn you, Stax!) although i've never seen one of these in the flesh.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then Stax redesigned the headband to stop this, resulting in this design. I believe there is a simple screw joining the fork and housing (metal screw, plastic fork/housing. Damn you, Stax!) although i've never seen one of these in the flesh._

 

I just checked mine (the plastic variant), and there's no screw. Just a plastic double sided pin, with a sort of rim in the middle. One side of the pin is inserted into the housing, the other side of the pin goes into a small hole at the end of the plastic "fork". It's a very loose fit on mine, and very easy to remove. Haven't tried dismantling it further, though.

 BTW, while we're on the subject, does anyone have a link to an exploded view of the Lambda (Signature) ? I'd like to get an idea of what to expect, and what to look out for, before trying to fix my recently acquired ones...

 Ellen


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just checked mine (the plastic variant), and there's no screw. Just a plastic double sided pin, with a sort of rim in the middle. One side of the pin is inserted into the housing, the other side of the pin goes into a small hole at the end of the plastic "fork". It's a very loose fit on mine, and very easy to remove. Haven't tried dismantling it further, though._

 

Thanks.

  Quote:


 BTW, while we're on the subject, does anyone have a link to an exploded view of the Lambda (Signature) ? I'd like to get an idea of what to expect, and what to look out for, before trying to fix my recently acquired ones... 
 

Are you sure "exploded" is the word you're looking for? I don't think anyone would like to see their Signature explode.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just checked mine (the plastic variant), and there's no screw. Just a plastic double sided pin, with a sort of rim in the middle. One side of the pin is inserted into the housing, the other side of the pin goes into a small hole at the end of the plastic "fork". It's a very loose fit on mine, and very easy to remove. Haven't tried dismantling it further, though.

 BTW, while we're on the subject, does anyone have a link to an exploded view of the Lambda (Signature) ? I'd like to get an idea of what to expect, and what to look out for, before trying to fix my recently acquired ones...

 Ellen_

 

Here are some photos of the Lambda Pro's but I couldn't find any of the Signatures. They are basically the same except there is no wool inside the cups. The driver is glued to the aluminum plate and it is encased in resin like substance so opening it will most likely destroy it. Be careful with the earpads because they are not available anymore in the dark brown color.


----------



## Tachikoma

Bigwarehouse spares apparently, does not stock any of the HE60's parts, but they can get almost all of the parts for the HE60 from Germany. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good news yes but there's more - the part they can't supply are the housings, not the headband. Should I still continue? And assuming I can find someone to build me a suitable housing for the headphones, should I bother getting anything else other than the drivers?

 The TakeT H2 is really tempting me to cancel my order... <_<


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bigwarehouse spares apparently, does not stock any of the HE60's parts, but they can get almost all of the parts for the HE60 from Germany. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good news yes but there's more - the part they can't supply are the housings, not the headband. Should I still continue? And assuming I can find someone to build me a suitable housing for the headphones, should I bother getting anything else other than the drivers?

 The TakeT H2 is really tempting me to cancel my order... <_<_

 

I'd still buy the headband and earpads just incase you're able to stumble upon a HE60 (let's say in poor condition) in the future, so you can revamp it and make it good as new!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bigwarehouse spares apparently, does not stock any of the HE60's parts, but they can get almost all of the parts for the HE60 from Germany. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good news yes but there's more - the part they can't supply are the housings, not the headband. Should I still continue? And assuming I can find someone to build me a suitable housing for the headphones, should I bother getting anything else other than the drivers?

 The TakeT H2 is really tempting me to cancel my order... <_<_

 

It depends on how much you are paying for the drivers. They aren't bad by any means but if you have to do a DIY enclosure any way you always us a set of Lambdas as the starting point. The housing has a great deal to do with the sound along with other factors, distance from driver to ear, driver angle and the size of the chamber. If you could transplant the drivers into a HD600 and use HE60 ear pads you could get a He60 cheaply.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are some photos of the Lambda Pro's but I couldn't find any of the Signatures. They are basically the same except there is no wool inside the cups. The driver is glued to the aluminum plate and it is encased in resin like substance so opening it will most likely destroy it. Be careful with the earpads because they are not available anymore in the dark brown color._

 

spritzer to the rescue, as usual! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I was actually familiar with that site, but didn't think to check it for "nude" pictures... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As for the earpads, I don't really care if they're the original color, or black.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_Are you sure "exploded" is the word you're looking for? I don't think anyone would like to see their Signature explode._

 

Yes, I'm sure -- I don't want a view of an exploded Signature, just an exploded view of a Signature... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ellen


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_Then Stax redesigned the headband to stop this, resulting in this design. I believe there is a simple screw joining the fork and housing (metal screw, plastic fork/housing. Damn you, Stax!) although i've never seen one of these in the flesh._

 

Ah, I have the plastic version. I can't believe i didn't notice that the pins were loose when i was cleaning up the earcups last night. 

 Thanks! 

 I'm hoping the channel imbalance turns out to be fried over-voltage protection or something equally simple, so this doesn't turn out to be an academic exercise and an interesting home for some yamaha orthodynamic drivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer to the rescue, as usual! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I was actually familiar with that site, but didn't think to check it for "nude" pictures... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As for the earpads, I don't really care if they're the original color, or black._

 

It's a great site but we really should do something similar in English. I can supply pictures and info...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I have the plastic version. I can't believe i didn't notice that the pins were loose when i was cleaning up the earcups last night. 

 Thanks! 

 I'm hoping the channel imbalance turns out to be fried over-voltage protection or something equally simple, so this doesn't turn out to be an academic exercise and an interesting home for some yamaha orthodynamic drivers._

 

It's most likely that the diaphragm is starting to loose charge but you could get lucky and it is just a loose connection or something easy to fix.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's most likely that the diaphragm is starting to loose charge but you could get lucky and it is just a loose connection or something easy to fix._

 

Is there a way to test the the electret? I have a wavetek LCR, oscilloscope, etc.


----------



## spritzer

I have never done any work on the electrets so I'm sure how you could test it.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It depends on how much you are paying for the drivers. They aren't bad by any means but if you have to do a DIY enclosure any way you always us a set of Lambdas as the starting point. The housing has a great deal to do with the sound along with other factors, distance from driver to ear, driver angle and the size of the chamber. If you could transplant the drivers into a HD600 and use HE60 ear pads you could get a He60 cheaply._

 

The drivers are about $350~. So you're suggesting that I only buy the earpads (why not the earpads that match whatever housing I decide to buy instead?) + drivers?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The drivers are about $350~. So you're suggesting that I only buy the earpads (why not the earpads that match whatever housing I decide to buy instead?) + drivers?_

 

You should buy the earpads if you will use a HD6x0 as the platform for the headphones or if you want your set to sound like the normal He60. The earpads on the HE60 and He90 are different from other Sennheiser units for a reason and they will have a huge impact on how the headphones sound. If you're not after the He60 sound just use any pads that sound good to you.


----------



## Dawoofer

I would just like to state that I don't see the advantage to having the E9 energizer unit. After just a few seconds the headphones self energize and you cannot even tell the difference if the unit is powered on or off. So what is the advantage to the energizer? I cannot hear one.


----------



## Duggeh

For music with high dynamic range which utilises bursts of high energy (a lot of classical music, liek the 1812 for example) means that periods of low volume compromise the self-bias. Making mains bias the better option.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dawoofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just like to state that I don't see the advantage to having the E9 energizer unit. After just a few seconds the headphones self energize and you cannot even tell the difference if the unit is powered on or off. So what is the advantage to the energizer? I cannot hear one._

 

The box does a bit more then just provide the bias. In fact it's full of stuff to mess up the sound... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Self bias mode works very well when there is enough voltage on the secondaries so it's good for loud, dynamic music.


----------



## audiod

I made a jig to measure the frequency response of my headphones. I used my trusty Ivie IE-33 spectrum analyzer with a IE-2P mic preamp and a calibrated B&K mic capsule. The platform was a 1/2 inch thick Plexiglas plate with a 1/2 inch layer of multi density foam glued to the Plexiglas. A tight hole was drilled for the mic. The phones were clamped to make a tight seal. There was nothing blocking the back wave. This setup isn’t perfect (what is?) but it was the same for all tests. I tested the Lambda (low bias), Lambda Pro, SR-202 and SR-404. I used my SRM-1mkII Pro for the driving amp. The pink noise was from a calibrated Ivie generator. The reference level was set for 75db. It’s interesting to see the Lambda (low bias) and Lambda Pro have similar signatures, as does the 202 and 404. Must be the stator differences. I’m in the process of doing the SRX-III, SR-5 and Omega II.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Great diy measurements! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-Lambda and the Lambda Pro are really the same except for the bias voltage.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I made a jig to measure the frequency response of my headphones. I used my trusty Ivie IE-33 spectrum analyzer with a IE-2P mic preamp and a calibrated B&K mic capsule. The platform was a 1/2 inch thick Plexiglas plate with a 1/2 inch layer of multi density foam glued to the Plexiglas. A tight hole was drilled for the mic. The phones were clamped to make a tight seal. There was nothing blocking the back wave. This setup isn’t perfect (what is?) but it was the same for all tests. I tested the Lambda (low bias), Lambda Pro, SR-202 and SR-404. I used my SRM-1mkII Pro for the driving amp. The pink noise was from a calibrated Ivie generator. The reference level was set for 75db. It’s interesting to see the Lambda (low bias) and Lambda Pro have similar signatures, as does the 202 and 404. Must be the stator differences. I’m in the process of doing the SRX-III, SR-5 and Omega II.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Am I reading these right or all all the phones +/- 2.5 dB? I assume the bit on the far left is just the chart recorder getting going.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Am I reading these right or all all the phones +/- 2.5 dB? I assume the bit on the far left is just the chart recorder getting going._

 

Each division is 15db. It's a problem when you are measuring with the mic so close to the transducer. You see the combing effect. I'm going to try to make some high frequency measurements with the mic further from the diaphragm, there will not be a seal so the bass will surely roll off quickly. I also want to try some impulse testing to see if there is any ringing or frame resonance’s. Just having fun.

 AudioD


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bigwarehouse spares apparently, does not stock any of the HE60's parts, but they can get almost all of the parts for the HE60 from Germany. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good news yes but there's more - the part they can't supply are the housings, not the headband. Should I still continue? And assuming I can find someone to build me a suitable housing for the headphones, should I bother getting anything else other than the drivers?_

 

Actually, I managed to get two spare headband pads from them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad they can't supply the crucial parts.

 audiod, thanks for the FR graphs. There's quite a striking family resemblance. Is it safe to say that the sound hasn't really changed much from a technical point of view?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_Is there a way to test the the electret? I have a wavetek LCR, oscilloscope, etc._

 

The best way I can think of is to assume the electret hasn't "lost" any of its charge (though when they get this old, they do sometimes become forgetful and _misplace_ their charge), snip the lead to (or measure the ohmage of) what I assume to be little protector-doodads that parallel the driver (lower left corner of driver board, below), and crank that baby up carefully to see if both sides are equal now.


----------



## audiod

Here are the graphs for the Lambda Pro, SRX-III and SR-5.
 The SRX has a smooth response!


----------



## wualta

GO SR-X !!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are the graphs for the Lambda Pro, SRX-III and SR-5.
 The SRX has a smooth response!




_

 

It's pretty much what I hear in mine, good midrange but a notable deep Bass roll-off compared to the Lambda pro.

 All of the measurements seem to have a dip about 9kHz. Is that what you think is the comb-filter artifact? I don't understand what would be causing this.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should buy the earpads if you will use a HD6x0 as the platform for the headphones or if you want your set to sound like the normal He60. The earpads on the HE60 and He90 are different from other Sennheiser units for a reason and they will have a huge impact on how the headphones sound. If you're not after the He60 sound just use any pads that sound good to you._

 

I've never auditioned the HE60 before, so I don't know whether thats the sound for me; since the earpads are different from the rest of the senn line... isn't it possible that the HD6x0's housings aren't really identical to that of the HE60's? (and the earpads wouldn't even fit)


----------



## krmathis

audiod. Some great DIY spectrum analyzes you have performed there.
 Can't wait for the Omega II one, to see how it compares against the Lambda Pro and SR-X/MK3.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_audiod. Some great DIY spectrum analyzes you have performed there.
 Can't wait for the Omega II one, to see how it compares against the Lambda Pro and SR-X/MK3._

 

+1

 Very interesting work Audiod! Please post more.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's pretty much what I hear in mine, good midrange but a notable deep Bass roll-off compared to the Lambda pro.

 All of the measurements seem to have a dip about 9kHz. Is that what you think is the comb-filter artifact? I don't understand what would be causing this._

 

I'm not sure why there is the 9k dip. I thought it might be the setup but the SR-5 is quite different. I have a second set of SRX that I plan to try. I also want to try the mic further away from the phones to remove the cavity from the response. I plan to do the Omega II but they are going to be more difficult because the phones don't appear to easily detach from the headband.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never auditioned the HE60 before, so I don't know whether thats the sound for me; since the earpads are different from the rest of the senn line... isn't it possible that the HD6x0's housings aren't really identical to that of the HE60's? (and the earpads wouldn't even fit)_

 

I'm sure they aren't drop in compatible because of the different mounting needed. It's easy enough to mod them to fit with a little skill and patience. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure why there is the 9k dip. I thought it might be the setup but the SR-5 is quite different. I have a second set of SRX that I plan to try. I also want to try the mic further away from the phones to remove the cavity from the response. I plan to do the Omega II but they are going to be more difficult because the phones don't appear to easily detach from the headband.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You need to completely disassemble the SR-007 to remove the arc assembly. Start with the pads and work your way down. Beware that the angle of the driver will have a dramatic effect of the response.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure why there is the 9k dip. I thought it might be the setup but the SR-5 is quite different. I have a second set of SRX that I plan to try. I also want to try the mic further away from the phones to remove the cavity from the response. I plan to do the Omega II but they are going to be more difficult because the phones don't appear to easily detach from the headband.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It probably explains why the SR-5 (which version are you measuring?) has a warm sound signature


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It probably explains why the SR-5 (which version are you measuring?) has a warm sound signature_

 

Mine are the original white model. They seem a good match for my SRA-12s. My SR-X's like the SRM-006t and the Lambda Pro's like my SRM-1mkII Pro.
 I also have a set of SR-5's with SRX elements in them.


----------



## ericj

Well folks, following a (perhaps unwise) early morning ebay snipe this past Monday, I today became the dubious owner of a fairly reasonable SRD-4 (w/ gold printing) and what i suppose are the most battle scarred SR-80 (pro?) ever. 

 They came with a home-made headband, severely damaged earcups, left side missing the damping pad, and the left side cord about 4 inches shorter than the right side - with an embarrassingly amateurish attempted retermination in the earcup - wired backwards, too.

 I've gone ahead and transplanted the drivers into the frame from Duderuud's former SR-30 -- which really do appear to have one blown driver. (Anybody got a spare SR-30 driver?)

 Lacking the headband, how do i tell whether they were regular SR-80's or Pro versions? fwiw the seller referred to them as SR-84, which may imply that he knew of their origin, and perhaps perpetrated various crimes against them.


----------



## krmathis

ericj. The SR-80 is an electret, which mean there are no bias voltage (Pro or Normal).
 Or do you refer to "Pro" with another meaning than the bias voltage?

 Source: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/History.html
 "1982 | Electret type Earspeakers with adaptor | SR-84"


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ericj. The SR-80 is an electret, which mean there are no bias voltage (Pro or Normal).
 Or do you refer to "Pro" with another meaning than the bias voltage?

 Source: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/History.html
 "1982 | Electret type Earspeakers with adaptor | SR-84"_

 

Yes. 1989 saw the release of the SR-30 Pro and the SR-80 Pro. iirc they have a thinner diaphragm.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* 
_Or do you refer to "Pro" with another meaning than the bias voltage?_

 

Near as we can figure, the meaning of Pro in Stax's electret line consists entirely of: (1) gold lettering on the accompanying SRD-4, (2) the word _Pro_ (on the SR-80's earcup slider) in gold lettering, and (3) an approximately 4-micron diaphragm versus an approximately 6-micron diaphragm.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. 1989 saw the release of the SR-30 Pro and the SR-80 Pro. iirc they have a thinner diaphragm._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Near as we can figure, the meaning of Pro in Stax's electret line consists entirely of: (1) gold lettering on the accompanying SRD-4, (2) the word Pro (on the SR-80's earcup slider) in gold lettering, and (3) an approximately 4-micron diaphragm versus an approximately 6-micron diaphragm._

 

Thanks! Then I learned something new today.
 Never heard of the SR-80 Pro, and always thought there were only one SR-80 version...


----------



## educator

Quote:


 As a PS, The SRM-717 sounding a little less than the 006t, may have been due to having the HE60 and the Omega 2 plugged in at the same time. Next time we should investigate the sonic effects of loud differences. 
 

Does a second headphone plugged into the 717 degrade from the sound in the first one? I.e. does the amp divide its power in half to drive 2 headphones?


----------



## Tachikoma

It halves the current going to each headphone, but since electrostats are voltage driven it makes almost no difference.

 Btw, how do you like your headphile SR-X mk3 pro?


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw, how do you like your headphile SR-X mk3 pro? _

 

What? Headphile SR-X MKIII Pro?!


----------



## Carl

I wonder what I should do with these Gamma Pros. The flickering issue has 95% righted itself, but there is still that illusive 5%. The problem is I just don't like them as much as the HE60 and ESP950 to which they sound similar, and don't really feel like spending further effort to fix what's left (I'd rather listen to some music). Anyone game for buying a 95% opperational GP (I'll refund you if things get worse). Heck, I could even sell my NOS GP/SRX Pro drivers now that I know the sound isn't to my tastes. I think the drivers would probably be worth more than the headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Near as we can figure, the meaning of Pro in Stax's electret line consists entirely of: (1) gold lettering on the accompanying SRD-4, (2) the word Pro (on the SR-80's earcup slider) in gold lettering, and (3) an approximately 4-micron diaphragm versus an approximately 6-micron diaphragm._

 

I think they reformulated the cable, too. Stax was big on changing cables in the second half of 80s. I wonder if anyone ever hastled them to do double blind testing?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw, how do you like your headphile SR-X mk3 pro? _

 

Headphile SR-X/MK3 Pro? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Where? Whom? ....


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What? Headphile SR-X MKIII Pro?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

See- http://www.headphile.com/page22.html

 Bottom picture.

 I really like them a lot. I also like my esp950's recabled with Carl's cable by Alex. I don't know how to write headphone reviews and I don't have much else to compare them with.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Headphile SR-X/MK3 Pro? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Where? Whom? ...._

 

There were two sets of SRX Pro/Gamma Pro drivers; I got one set and Larry got the other. He made a woody out of it using a Beyer housing and Omega 2 earpads. Unfortunately I was stone broke at the time.

 Because of the design its sound would, I suspect, have more in common with a Gamma Pro than a SRX Pro.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See- http://www.headphile.com/page22.html

 Bottom picture.

 I really like them a lot. I also like my esp950's recabled with Carl's cable by Alex. I don't know how to write headphone reviews and I don't have much else to compare them with._

 

Do compare the two of them. I personally favour the 950 over the Gamma Pro, but I'm interested in hearing your take on the matter.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See- http://www.headphile.com/page22.html

 Bottom picture._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There were two sets of SRX Pro/Gamma Pro drivers; I got one set and Larry got the other. He made a woody out of it using a Beyer housing and Omega 2 earpads. Unfortunately I was stone broke at the time._

 

Now I see.
 Larry got hold of NOS drivers, and used them to make a Beyerdynamic/SR-X Pro hybrid. Looks like a fun phone, but nothing for me...

 /me continue looking for a *real* SR-X/MK3 Pro.


----------



## Veniogenesis

*cries* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So strange. So strange.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_/me continue looking for a *real* SR-X/MK3 Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Best of luck. Hearing the GPs I think we can say I'm out of the market for a pair.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder what I should do with these Gamma Pros. The flickering issue has 95% righted itself, but there is still that illusive 5%. The problem is I just don't like them as much as the HE60 and ESP950 to which they sound similar, and don't really feel like spending further effort to fix what's left (I'd rather listen to some music). Anyone game for buying a 95% opperational GP (I'll refund you if things get worse). Heck, I could even sell my NOS GP/SRX Pro drivers now that I know the sound isn't to my tastes. I think the drivers would probably be worth more than the headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You know I'm always up for some new headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Drop me a PM if you want to sell them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think they reformulated the cable, too. Stax was big on changing cables in the second half of 80s. I wonder if anyone ever hastled them to do double blind testing? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Changing the cable on the SR-X Mk3 was a big upgrade but it doesn't fix their fundamental flaws.


----------



## spritzer

So I just got my mint set of SR-3's along with a beautiful SRD-5. They are in beautiful condition for a headphone that was probably made in 1968-69 with barely a scratch on them (some pictures later). All manuals and boxes were included and one interesting part, the SRD-5 schematic is included and the bias is indeed 200v. I was searching through my old Stax data and the first set with 230v bias listed were the Sr-Lambdas. 

 Now onto the sound. The SR-3 are very dark sounding with limited bass extension and a huge upper midbass hump. There are also missing large parts of bass information in some tracks so the He90 could be the SR-3's person child. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The great electrostatic midrange is here in full force but it lacks detail. The treble is limited and that gives them their dark nature but they aren't bright so I can live with it. There is very little soundstage to speak of (between the eyes and slightly forward) but the placement is excellent with good center image. 

 Now I need to find a set of SR-1 and SR-2...


----------



## Duggeh

Thats almost exactly what I thought of the SR-3N, except I wouldn't describe them as having a huge midbass hump.


----------



## spritzer

These are the older SR-3's. The New model is quite a bit better with some bass extension and not so horribly dark. Still as inefficient though.


----------



## duderuud

I have a folder on Stax set-ups lying around and just made some pictures of it, I thought some people might be interested in the information. These pics are cropped, if you really want the full-sized pics, feel free to pm me and I'll send them to you email or something. If you want me to take photo's of un-readable parts, PM me too. But, the folder will be gone tomorrow (sending it to Spritzer) so I can only take new pics today.

 Anyways, here they are, hope they are readable enough


----------



## spritzer

We really need a 56k warning on this thread... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Here are some long overdue pics of the Suprex PEP-74. Click for bigger ones.


----------



## spritzer

SR-Lambda Signature


----------



## spritzer

Magnavox 1A9217














 Marantz SE-1


----------



## spritzer

Stax SR-Lambda














 The last last pic is of my second set that has no backwave diffusion. You can almost touch the terminals on the drivers...


----------



## spritzer

Stax SR-3








 Stax New SR-3








 Stax SR-5








 Micro Seiki MS-2


----------



## spritzer

Stax SR-Sigma











 Stax SR-Sigma PRO











 Had enough yet?


----------



## milkpowder

Thanks for the pictures. Does the SR-Sigma Pro really have as amazing soundstage and ambience reproduction as Stax claim? How out-of-the-head ie speaker-like is the presentation?

 Another question relates to your two SR-Lambda Pros. One has the rear foam and the other doesn't. What are the sonic differences between the two?

 I apologise in advance if you have already addressed those questions earlier.


----------



## spritzer

In comparison with the other contemporary phones the Sigmas have a pretty special soundstage but compared to the SR-007 it isn't that good. It isn't as precise and strictly defined nor has it the depth and hight of the SR-007. Most of the blame is on the housing because it had to be compromised to save weight and cost. On the whole they have their special sound and are very enjoyable and comfortable. 

 They are SR-Lambdas, i.e. normal bias units. With the diffusers in place they are bright and peaky, with blurry imaging and sharp bass rolloff. Remove them and the phones are transformed, the brightness is gone but in it's place is a slight etch or resonance but it is much less annoying. The phones are much more linear and the bass has natural roll off and they have this thump to them that makes some the normal phones much better suited to rock music.


----------



## tubaman

I'm thinking about getting either the Omega II or 4040II. I noticed the Omega II has been around for a long time (since 00' or 01' I think; and 4040II for how long?). Is it wise for me to wait for a while, if the new ones come out I can at least hope the get a better deal on the above 2?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tubaman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking about getting either the Omega II or 4040II. I noticed the Omega II has been around for a long time (since 00' or 01' I think; and 4040II for how long?). Is it wise for me to wait for a while, if the new ones come out I can at least hope the get a better deal on the above 2?_

 

The SR-007 (Omega II) headphone was introduced in 1998, while the 4040II system was introduced last year. That said, the SR-404 headphones (part of the 4040II system) was introduced in 1999, so they are about the same age.

 There are no verified news about an Omega III, so I see no reason to wait. 
 It might happen tomorrow or in 2010, who knows...


 spritzer. Thanks for the pictures.
 You really have one massive collection of electrostatic headphones. I am SO envious.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007 (Omega II) headphone was introduced in 1998, while the 4040II system was introduced last year. That said, the SR-404 headphones (part of the 4040II system) was introduced in 1999, so they are about the same age.

 There are no verified news about an Omega III, so I see no reason to wait. 
 It might happen tomorrow or in 2010, who knows..._

 

There is a very simple reason why Stax just updates the amps and not the headphones, they are the weak link in the chain. Even if Stax releases the Omega 3 the II's wont suddenly sound like crap. They are truly stunning headphones that demand the best equipment and when they are driven from a good amp deliver in spades. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer. Thanks for the pictures.
 You really have one massive collection of electrostatic headphones. I am SO envious. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's not even all of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...I think I might have a problem...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a very simple reason why Stax just updates the amps and not the headphones, they are the weak link in the chain._

 

The SR-404 sure is a great headphone, which seem to scale a lot when driven by better amplifiers than the SRM-006t. So it makes sense that Stax kept the SR-404 and only updated the amplifier.

  Quote:


 Even if Stax releases the Omega 3 the II's wont suddenly sound like crap. They are truly stunning headphones that demand the best equipment and when they are driven from a good amp deliver in spades. 
 

Exactly. The Omega II will still stay as one of the best sounding headphones ever. An eventual Omega III release will not change this fact.

  Quote:


 That's not even all of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...I think I might have a problem... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I know. You have previously stated that you have 30+ electrostatic headphones.
 This hobby sure is addictive, so I totally know how if feels. You *just* have to buy this specific headphone, then another one ....


----------



## archiethedeputy

I have a pair of 4070s and an 007t- all boxed and virtually unused. I am willing to sell complete (£1500) or will swap/trade. All equipment was bought new from Symmetry in the UK, about 18 months ago. Not a grey import so future servicing is no problem. All like new and boxed with all documentation. 

 Serious enquiries please to phamble@tiscali.co.uk


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly. The Omega II will still stay as one of the best sounding headphones ever. An eventual Omega III release will not change this fact._

 

I don't think there's any need for an Omega III unless Stax have some way of objectively improving on the sound reproduction of the Omega II. If that's how Stax feel too then I look forward to the OIII's release as much as anyone.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know. You have previously stated that you have 30+ electrostatic headphones.
 This hobby sure is addictive, so I totally know how if feels. You *just* have to buy this specific headphone, then another one .... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's never ending. I just bought a second Lambda Pro because I'm not going to get mine back from an extended loan of 3 years. Never loan anybody stats' unless they aren't really into them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only problem is the buildup of unwanted adapters that I have no use for.


----------



## milkpowder

The OII being as good as they already are, I don't think there is an awful lot they could improve on. If they do anything, it'll be to change the sound signature a little (eg make them sound more forward). This would be an improvement to some, but others may simply prefer the airy, lush sounding O2. At this level, individual preferences tend to determine whether or not one likes the headphone.


----------



## Duggeh

If they could improve on the O2, the main area to do so would be to make it easier to drive imo.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they could improve on the O2, the main area to do so would be to make it easier to drive imo._

 

That would be easy, just use thinner spacers. The fact that they use PCB stators adds to the diaphragm/stator distance the thickness of the stator.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think there's any need for an Omega III unless Stax have some way of objectively improving on the sound reproduction of the Omega II. If that's how Stax feel too then I look forward to the OIII's release as much as anyone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

True. I don't expect Stax to release an Omega III until they are pretty confident that it is better sounding than the Omega II. But even then, the Omega II wont be "bad" sounding just over night...

 But if/when they do release an Omega III, count me in for a pair! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's never ending. I just bought a second Lambda Pro because I'm not going to get mine back from an extended loan of 3 years. Never loan anybody stats' unless they aren't really into them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only problem is the buildup of unwanted adapters that I have no use for. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He he
 The Stax sound sure are addictive, so I totally understand that it would be hard to part with a system you have on loan. Hence I will think twice before loan out one of my systems.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The OII being as good as they already are, I don't think there is an awful lot they could improve on. If they do anything, it'll be to change the sound signature a little (eg make them sound more forward). This would be an improvement to some, but others may simply prefer the airy, lush sounding O2. At this level, individual preferences tend to determine whether or not one likes the headphone._

 

I don't see many ways to improve the Omega II. Except these two:
 * Smaller physical size.
 * Easier to drive.

 But in any case, I hope they keep the current sound signature.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only problem is the buildup of unwanted adapters that I have no use for. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

No problem! You sell 'em to me!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem! You sell 'em to me!_

 

I would if I'd ever sell any of my stuff. Some of the adapters will be stripped for their connectors (the Marantz unit has the original Stax connectors) but most will just gather dust. If I get some more SRD-7's I'll most likely sell them to help others with this addiction...


----------



## mikeg

Perhaps the O III will be an HE90 clone.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would if I'd ever sell any of my stuff. Some of the adapters will be stripped for their connectors (the Marantz unit has the original Stax connectors) but most will just gather dust. If I get some more SRD-7's I'll most likely sell them to help others with this addiction... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, it is an addiction... I'm only a raw beginner, but I've already got a SRD-6/SB and a SRD-7 (Mains Bias)... now, of course, I'm desperate to get a SRD-7 MkII or SRD-7 Pro!

 Funnily enough, my wife does insist on pointing out that I have only one pair of ears...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps the O III will be an HE90 clone._

 

When hell freezes over. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax likes their bass extension and you have to go back to 1968 to find a Stax phone with similar bass characteristics to the He90.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it is an addiction... I'm only a raw beginner, but I've already got a SRD-6/SB and a SRD-7 (Mains Bias)... now, of course, I'm desperate to get a SRD-7 MkII or SRD-7 Pro!

 Funnily enough, my wife does insist on pointing out that I have only one pair of ears..._

 

Sure we have only one pair of ears but none of these phones sound the same so one for each mood...


----------



## mikeg

Yup, I know that the O2 has lots of bass, but that's about all that it has in abundance; i.e., it sounds rather dull in most other respects. Perhaps Stax will correct their unfortunate design flaws in the O2, in their forthcoming O3; i.e., perhaps they'll incorporate a bit of the magnificent openness, spaciousness, and clarity of the HE90, which are the qualities that their O2 now lacks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When hell freezes over. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax likes their bass extension and you have to go back to 1968 to find a Stax phone with similar bass characteristics to the He90._


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps the O III will be an HE90 clone._

 

? Why take a step backwards?? If I want an overly-excited, "forward" sound, I can just hook up some SR-Lambdas.


----------



## derekbmn

How old are you again mikeg ???


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, I know that the O2 has lots of bass, but that's about all that it has in abundance; i.e., it sounds rather dull in most other respects. Perhaps Stax will correct their unfortunate design flaws in the O2, in their forthcoming O3; i.e., perhaps they'll incorporate a bit of the magnificent openness, spaciousness, and clarity of the HE90, which are the qualities that their O2 now lacks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I always think the O2's could have a bit more bass when properly fitted and driven. It is very subtle, textured and engaging but at the same time has this laid back feeling. The Lambdas have much more bass and can even be boomy at times but it doesn't reach as far and neither has the detail of the SR-007. The popular misconception that the SR-007 is too bassy and/or too dark is largely amp and system based. They will bite your head off if you don't feed them a healthy diet of neutrality, silver and power in equal portions. 

 I just got a set of mint SR-3's and I was shocked how similar the bass was to the He90. The same hump coupled to a sharp roll off and large portions of bass missing from the range they should be able to reproduce. Rest of the spectrum isn't anything like the He90 though.


----------



## mikeg

Vot's dot, sonny? Vot's de quevtion again? Ah' yes, old enough to appreciate de exquisite HE90, but not zo old, no longer to be able to hear it, ven using max volume; i.e., > 200 db. How's dot, sonny?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now, where the heck did I put those hearing aids, or the magnifier that I use to find them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How old are you again mikeg ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tubaman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking about getting either the Omega II or 4040II. I noticed the Omega II has been around for a long time (since 00' or 01' I think; and 4040II for how long?). Is it wise for me to wait for a while, if the new ones come out I can at least hope the get a better deal on the above 2?_

 

The Omega II is a relatively new design by Stax’s product cycles. The Lambda series is long in the tooth. If I were Stax I would replace the Lambda series with a line of plastic versions of the Omega II (Omega Jr.) with a similar design element. I would also be working on a ultimate high output tube amp to fend off the competition. I think that any ultimate amp should have a tone control (similar to the tilt control that Quad of England use to use) so people could dial in the tonal balance to their taste.


----------



## spritzer

If Stax were to upgrade anything it would be the Lambda housing and swap it out for something stronger that doesn't resonate as much. The only problem here is cost and it would be a lot more expensive, just look at the 4070. 

 It would be very cool if they were to release a new version of the Sigma with the 4070 headband, drivers, cable and a much stronger housing. I'd buy one on the spot...


----------



## Duggeh

Can the 4070 headband not be put onto a standard set of lambdas?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If Stax were to upgrade anything it would be the Lambda housing and swap it out for something stronger that doesn't resonate as much. The only problem here is cost and it would be a lot more expensive, just look at the 4070. 

 It would be very cool if they were to release a new version of the Sigma with the 4070 headband, drivers, cable and a much stronger housing. I'd buy one on the spot..._

 

The modded Sigma/404 is not that far off what you describe. Or you could rip apart a 404 and put it in a housing and headband of your own design.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715


----------



## patrickamory

OK, here's a belated report on the NOS Raytheon 6FQ7s in the 006tII. Briefly, I didn't like them, and much to my surprise, preferred the stock Electro-Harmonix.

 Both sets of tubes were biased after extensive warm-up, and listened to for at least 50 hours. The Raytheons were initially seductive. They have greater transparency in the mids, especially on massed strings, and are slightly sweeter in the top end. They might be slightly more "musical" than the stock tubes, in that the frequency extremes aren't exaggerated.

 However these benefits are more than outweighed by their lack of gain and bass oomph. Perhaps in a different amp they would have worked well, but not in the 006tII driving 404s. The stock tubes don't need the volume pushed up nearly as high as the Raytheons do. With the stocks, the amp is audibly working less hard and is ultimately more natural sounding. Moreover the low end is back - I was missing it with the Raytheons. The result of the amp not straining and the full frequency response is a richer, more natural sound, and I find myself listening to a ton more music since I returned to the stock tubes.

 1 pair of 6FQ7s for sale...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, I know that the O2 has lots of bass, but that's about all that it has in abundance; i.e., it sounds rather dull in most other respects._

 

I can't comment on the HE90 comparison you made having never heard the HE90, but the only time the O2 has ever sounded dull to me is when it wasn't fed enough power. I agree with Spritzer; they can "bite your head off" depending on the system setup. I also don't really feel the O2 has a lot of bass. To me it's just that it's not particularly _lacking_ in bass the way some other stats are. I can understand people preferring less bass though. The HE60 could even convince me to like less bass given some time I expect.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can the 4070 headband not be put onto a standard set of lambdas?_

 

I don't know. If Carl doesn't answer this for us I'll just have to buy a set of 4070 and a SR-404 and try it out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The modded Sigma/404 is not that far off what you describe. Or you could rip apart a 404 and put it in a housing and headband of your own design.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715_

 

The problem with the Sigma is the housing and the headband. Change the housing to something much stiffer and the headband to something that gives a better seal and we would be half way there. There was one Sigma just like yours on Yahoo JP! a few moths back and I forgot to bid on it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, here's a belated report on the NOS Raytheon 6FQ7s in the 006tII. Briefly, I didn't like them, and much to my surprise, preferred the stock Electro-Harmonix.

 Both sets of tubes were biased after extensive warm-up, and listened to for at least 50 hours. The Raytheons were initially seductive. They have greater transparency in the mids, especially on massed strings, and are slightly sweeter in the top end. They might be slightly more "musical" than the stock tubes, in that the frequency extremes aren't exaggerated.

 However these benefits are more than outweighed by their lack of gain and bass oomph. Perhaps in a different amp they would have worked well, but not in the 006tII driving 404s. The stock tubes don't need the volume pushed up nearly as high as the Raytheons do. With the stocks, the amp is audibly working less hard and is ultimately more natural sounding. Moreover the low end is back - I was missing it with the Raytheons. The result of the amp not straining and the full frequency response is a richer, more natural sound, and I find myself listening to a ton more music since I returned to the stock tubes.

 1 pair of 6FQ7s for sale... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm sad to hear you didn't like them but this is all about trial and error. I've never tried the Raytheon branded tubes since mine are marked Toshiba and in my modded T1 they were far and away the most neutral. 

 Btw. Was the biasing like the instructions I sent to you or has Stax changed something?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't comment on the HE90 comparison you made having never heard the HE90, but the only time the O2 has ever sounded dull to me is when it wasn't fed enough power. I agree with Spritzer; they can "bite your head off" depending on the system setup. I also don't really feel the O2 has a lot of bass. To me it's just that it's not particularly lacking in bass the way some other stats are. I can understand people preferring less bass though. The HE60 could even convince me to like less bass given some time I expect._

 

I often feel the SR-007 lacks bass when listening to some tracks because I'm used to the extra bloom other phones are responsible for but the a deep note hits and you hear it was present all along but it didn't draw any attention to it self. 

 I do like some phones that are bass limited if it isn't blindingly obvious and pushes the fact in your face. The SR-3, 3N and 5 have all limited bass but can fake their way through a song so you forget is for a while. The thought is though always lingering in my head: "How would this sound on the SR-007?"


----------



## mingde10467

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that any ultimate amp should have a tone control (similar to the tilt control that Quad of England use to use) so people could dial in the tonal balance to their taste._

 

I think the Quad tone controls were widely praised. To have an amp for the Omegas with a similar feature would be terrific. If not that, an outboard unit that could be plugged into a system like an equalizer, but much much simpler than an equalizer. 

 I'm not an audiophile so I don't share audiophile squeamishness over tone controls. All the stuff you read about switching amps and cables, tube rolling, etc., really seems to be about the need for tone controls. (Not that I want to spoil anybody's fun, but I just don't have the $ to indulge in that.) 

 It's hard to believe that in these days of digital signal processing some kind of relatively simple gizmo couldn't be made that didn't deteriorate the signal. But I guess there's no demand for it. 

 My problem with the Omega 2s is that a lot of digital recordings (I listen to classical music from before 1750 and after 1900) are either harsh, grayish sounding and flat, or a combination of all the above. These things aren't so apparent on, for instance, the Stax 003s (I use a KGSS with both). Maybe I need a more tube-like cdp. I currently use an Arcam FMJ CD-23.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not an audiophile so I don't share audiophile squeamishness over tone controls. All the stuff you read about switching amps and cables, tube rolling, etc., really seems to be about the need for tone controls. (Not that I want to spoil anybody's fun, but I just don't have the $ to indulge in that.)_

 


 I think it stems from a fear of capacitors and resistors. 

 It's OK if you buy a high-capacitance cable with relatively high resistance, or a tube with slightly different inter-electrode capacitance, but as soon as someone starts using things that are *Called capacitors and resistors . . .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it stems from a fear of capacitors and resistors. 

 It's OK if you buy a high-capacitance cable with relatively high resistance, or a tube with slightly different inter-electrode capacitance, but as soon as someone starts using things that are *Called capacitors and resistors . . ._

 

It's not a fear of the components per se but rather their quality. A large majority of all manufacturers use parts that are simply rubbish, few use parts that are only good enough and only a handful use the best they can find regardless of hype or cost and when they can't find anything good enough, they make their own.

 The other reason why people dismiss tone controls is how many amps are built, routing the signal all over the place causing serious damage to it. That is blamed on the tone controls without anyone bothering to look further.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Quad tone controls were widely praised. To have an amp for the Omegas with a similar feature would be terrific. If not that, an outboard unit that could be plugged into a system like an equalizer, but much much simpler than an equalizer. 

 I'm not an audiophile so I don't share audiophile squeamishness over tone controls. All the stuff you read about switching amps and cables, tube rolling, etc., really seems to be about the need for tone controls. (Not that I want to spoil anybody's fun, but I just don't have the $ to indulge in that.) 

 It's hard to believe that in these days of digital signal processing some kind of relatively simple gizmo couldn't be made that didn't deteriorate the signal. But I guess there's no demand for it. 

 My problem with the Omega 2s is that a lot of digital recordings (I listen to classical music from before 1750 and after 1900) are either harsh, grayish sounding and flat, or a combination of all the above. These things aren't so apparent on, for instance, the Stax 003s (I use a KGSS with both). Maybe I need a more tube-like cdp. I currently use an Arcam FMJ CD-23._

 

I use a Behringer DSP-8024 EQ driving my SRM-717, SRM-006t, SRM-1mkII Pro and SRA-12s. The equalization is done in the digital domain. This is the best sounding EQ I’ve heard. I does wonders for the SR-XmkIII phones. It also has memories so you can store different curves for different phones. When you turn it off it is a straight wire bypass. It would be nice if there were a simple 4 or 5 band program EQ but I’m unaware of one. The Behringer can be had cheap on eBay.

 I use my SRM-717 to drive my Omega II’s. I prefer it to the SRM-007t. I think that the O2’s need a good extended high frequency response from the amp to really open up. The 007t sounds closed in on top and lacking in dynamics and bass when driving the O2’s. The 007t sounds great on the Lambda’s. The 717 has a nice laidback soundstage. How do you like your KGSS amp? How would you describe the soundstage and balance?

 AudioD


----------



## kalvin66

they are good, but merely just good


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not a fear of the components per se but rather their quality. A large majority of all manufacturers use parts that are simply rubbish, few use parts that are only good enough and only a handful use the best they can find regardless of hype or cost and when they can't find anything good enough, they make their own._

 

Well, it's true what you say about consumer electronics. 

 A friend of a friend used to work for Thomson Consumer Electronics, aka RCA, and he said that their method of deciding how cheaply they could make something was to have the engineers build a prototype as well as it could be built, and then build incrementally cheaper versions. 

 Then they'd bring in a random group of people off the street and show them from best to worst, and when a majority of unbiased testers noticed that the quality got worse, they shipped one notch better than that unit. 

 Which sounds logical, except that most people are uncultured morons who wouldn't know good audio or video if it kicked them in the shin. 

 On the other hand, when people start insisting on tantalum resistors and teflon capacitors, it's hard not to come to the conclusion that emotion has overtaken logic.


----------



## spritzer

It's actually true for most of the "high" end also. It's isn't always that the designers intend to degrade the sound but rather stubborn engineering pride blinds them. Cost constraints are a big factor and I understand that but when something is supposed to be a no holds barred assault on the high end and it is riddled with bad components and just bad workmanship I can't look past that. You can get great sound from lesser components if you are a good designer but if you want the "best" you need the best parts. 

 It's also true that people bite into something that is supposed to be good, higher purity in wires, teflon insulation, torroids, pcb's vs. p-p and others like that without knowing what they are talking about. I've seen systems with IC's costing 5k$ and they are plugged into a 1$ rca socket that I wouldn't use on my TV.


----------



## ericj

I use a lot of silver-plated teflon-insulated wire because i bought 17 pounds of it for less than $30 at that auction site. 

 I chose teflon because i got tired of the smell of burning PVC. 

 It turns out that the silver is there to protect the teflon. Until recently, teflon insulation had to be extruded at such high temperatures that it would react with the tin plating and form tin fluoride. Since stannous fluoride is a volatile gas, this made bubbles in the teflon. 

 Extruding on silver, you do get some silver fluoride, but it's not volatile. 

 Cooler teflon extrusion methods are emerging, and we're starting to see mil-spec PTFE-insulated wire with tin plating on the copper. 

 I know what you mean about stubborn engineering pride. I have a good friend - an EE with decades of experience - who is mystified by the fact that we don't hold the LM386 to be adequate -- even though he admits that the PSRR is somewhat lacking. 

 He recently threatened to build an audiophile-grade headphone amp strictly out of retro 80's jellybean chips, but never forked over the schematic. I need to ply him with some hard-to-drive headphones.


----------



## mingde10467

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a Behringer DSP-8024 EQ driving my SRM-717, SRM-006t, SRM-1mkII Pro and SRA-12s. The equalization is done in the digital domain. This is the best sounding EQ I’ve heard. 

 How do you like your KGSS amp? How would you describe the soundstage and balance?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've read about the Behringer unit here and on other websites. I'm just sort of daunted by its complexity. Perhaps I should check it out. It's not, as you suggest, that expensive.

 I like the KGSS, although I haven't heard any other amps with the Omegas. 

 The soundstage seems typical of circumaural phones - - I've owned Beyers, Sony CDR-3000s, and Senn 650s. Without being able to listen to all of them side by side, I really can't make a comparison. 

 I also still have AKG K-1000s. The difference between them and the Omegas is very apparent. 

 That being said, I'm more inclined to think of soundstage in terms of individual recordings. A closely miked piece of chamber music might seem narrowly confined to the space between the phones, while an orchestral recording might give a greater sense of width and depth.

 By balance I guess you mean tonal balance. When, after listening to the Omegas for about eight months straight, I hooked up my AKGs, I was struck by how thin-sounding they were. Also, a recording of baroque violins that was ok on the Stax, pierced my ears like needles on the AKGs. (I use a Sugden A-21a integrated amp with them. For a solid state unit, it's supposed to be tube-like. Perhaps it's not the ideal amp. I don't know.) 

 I also tried my Etymotics after eight months. They seemed to be tilted or colored toward the high frequencies compared to the Omegas.

 When the recording is ok and I can ignore the feel of the Stax earpads,* the Omegas are wonderful. They're wonderful with even less-than-ok recordings. 

 *The remarks here by experienced Stax users about how to position the pads have been very helpful, but I wish the pads were made of something else and the seams weren't positioned where they touch your skin.


----------



## spritzer

Teflon is a very good insulator and I wouldn't use anything else when working with high voltage. It has a slight smearing effect on low level signals but I'd rather have it then the horrible PVC. 

 Although I use extruded teflon over silverplated copper wires I prefer to use bare wire and bigger teflon tubing when doing p-p work. 

 It's painful to see people tuberoll for hundreds of dollars but they never look at the coupling caps or the resistors as a potential upgrade. It's the same when people blame headphones or amps for revealing just how bad their source is and trash them. 

 It's a common theory that the more you learn the stupider you get. I know this all to well from my own line of work as a baker/manager. I've never studied it at school (was born into it more or less) but went rather for the university instead but I love to make something like that from scratch. It's shocking how little some of my bakers actually know about what they are doing even though they have been to school for 5 years and worked for another 5. They can't think on their feet and they are doing mistakes a student would be yelled at for doing. If somethings goes wrong they all run for their books to try and find the answers. If everybody thought that the books had all of the answers there wouldn't be any progress.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*The remarks here by experienced Stax users about how to position the pads have been very helpful, but I wish the pads were made of something else and the seams weren't positioned where they touch your skin._

 

Stax should try something similar to the He90 pads. They are made out o leather all around but the contact point has the traditional Sennheiser fabric. Not a bad idea at all. Still the leather pads are better then the horrible pleather pads most stats' used.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Teflon is a very good insulator and I wouldn't use anything else when working with high voltage. It has a slight smearing effect on low level signals but I'd rather have it then the horrible PVC._

 

I don't understand what physical mechanism would lead to this smearing effect you speak of. 

  Quote:


 It's painful to see people tuberoll for hundreds of dollars but they never look at the coupling caps or the resistors as a potential upgrade. 
 

That probably stems from being afraid of breaking the thing. Those circuits look pretty simple to you and me, but to the uninitiated it can be incomprehensible, and to the point where replacing an axial film cap seems like something you could easily screw up, resulting in injury, fire, and void of warranty. 

 Rolling tubes, on the other hand, isn't any harder than changing a lightbulb. 


  Quote:


 It's a common theory that the more you learn the stupider you get. I know this all to well from my own line of work as a baker/manager. I've never studied it at school (was born into it more or less) but went rather for the university instead but I love to make something like that from scratch. It's shocking how little some of my bakers actually know about what they are doing even though they have been to school for 5 years and worked for another 5. They can't think on their feet and they are doing mistakes a student would be yelled at for doing. If somethings goes wrong they all run for their books to try and find the answers. If everybody thought that the books had all of the answers there wouldn't be any progress. 
 


 I dunno, one of my brothers just graduated from a 2-year culinary arts school and i figure he's roughly as mediocre of a cook as he was when he went in. Except now he's afraid of salt and likes to indiscriminately combine fruit and red meat.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't understand what physical mechanism would lead to this smearing effect you speak of._

 

It's been pointed out that dielectric absorption might play a big part here. That is probably the most overlooked fact by anybody that doesn't believe cable make a difference and why caps and other insulated components change with use. Cables were a big thing for me a few years back but I've now settled on a design that works for me and I couldn't be happier. The cables aren't cheap (about 350$ in parts for 1m with connectors) but they are very neutral and you have to move up to the likes of the Indra to get much better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That probably stems from being afraid of breaking the thing. Those circuits look pretty simple to you and me, but to the uninitiated it can be incomprehensible, and to the point where replacing an axial film cap seems like something you could easily screw up, resulting in injury, fire, and void of warranty. 

 Rolling tubes, on the other hand, isn't any harder than changing a lightbulb._

 

People should open up their gear and look inside. If you don't touch anything it wont kill you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Simple things like lifting a badly placed trace can have a pretty dramatic effect. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dunno, one of my brothers just graduated from a 2-year culinary arts school and i figure he's roughly as mediocre of a cook as he was when he went in. Except now he's afraid of salt and likes to indiscriminately combine fruit and red meat._

 

I hate the fancy crap that comes with most culinary and pastry studies. Giving people enough to eat and keeping any decorations to minimum is what works in the end. Making good bread consistently is much harder then any pastries because it's alive and you have to know how to handle it. 

 Salt is a tricky substance to use correctly. I was sampling some of our competitors products recently and they all used too much salt to go for more taste and some even loaded the breads with sugar to get the kids hooked. It's gotten so bad here the government is involved in educating people about it.


----------



## captian73

i'm on the of buying the Stax SR-001 mk2 system, but i've heard a few nagative commnets about the build quality. any comments please?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been pointed out that dielectric absorption might play a big part here. That is probably the most overlooked fact by anybody that doesn't believe cable make a difference and why caps and other insulated components change with use._

 

PTFE is generally regarded as having very high dielectric strength, but i do realize that the dielectric properties of any insulator are going to vary with voltage and frequency. 

 Anybody got curves for that? 

  Quote:


 Salt is a tricky substance to use correctly. I was sampling some of our competitors products recently and they all used too much salt to go for more taste and some even loaded the breads with sugar to get the kids hooked. It's gotten so bad here the government is involved in educating people about it. 
 

I was raised in a family where cooking and baking from basic ingredients were required for survival. I think i came out of that a halfway decent cook and a halfway decent baker. 

 So, I know where you're coming from. I would also like to take this opportunity to mention that i have the severely good luck to live in a city that inexplicably hosts an actual french bakery, utilizing actual french baking equipment and manned by actual french bakers with decades of experience. I have no idea why they came here, and i hope they never come to their senses or go out of business. 

 Those guys make me feel like a rank amateur. I come back from their shop and feel unworthy to buy a bag of flour. 

 But i digress. The problem in the culinary world, as opposed to baking, is that those stove-jockeys have a spreading culture that salt = bad. 

 Nobody quite understands it, so they either eschew salt completely, or apply salt strangely only where it has the least value, or buy fancy specialty salt from exotic locales, corrupted with exotic impurities, and then apply too little of it - because it costs $30/oz. 

 I can't convince my brother to leave a pork chop in a brine in the fridge for a day, but he'll slather it in herbs and olive oil, and then salt them *after coving them with olive oil. 

 And then he puts mango chutney on them or something. I don't get it. They come out dry and oily and tasteless, with fruit and bits of leaf and twig on them. 

 You don't want to know what his baking skills are like. They say a good cook is usually a bad baker, and he's not that good of a cook.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PTFE is generally regarded as having very high dielectric strength, but i do realize that the dielectric properties of any insulator are going to vary with voltage and frequency. 

 Anybody got curves for that?_

 

Teflon does have a very good dielectric strength (1kV/mil) and I goes that's why it takes so long to run in, because it takes a long time to charge up the dielectric. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was raised in a family where cooking and baking from basic ingredients were required for survival. I think i came out of that a halfway decent cook and a halfway decent baker. 

 So, I know where you're coming from. I would also like to take this opportunity to mention that i have the severely good luck to live in a city that inexplicably hosts an actual french bakery, utilizing actual french baking equipment and manned by actual french bakers with decades of experience. I have no idea why they came here, and i hope they never come to their senses or go out of business. 

 Those guys make me feel like a rank amateur. I come back from their shop and feel unworthy to buy a bag of flour. 

 But i digress. The problem in the culinary world, as opposed to baking, is that those stove-jockeys have a spreading culture that salt = bad. 

 Nobody quite understands it, so they either eschew salt completely, or apply salt strangely only where it has the least value, or buy fancy specialty salt from exotic locales, corrupted with exotic impurities, and then apply too little of it - because it costs $30/oz. 

 I can't convince my brother to leave a pork chop in a brine in the fridge for a day, but he'll slather it in herbs and olive oil, and then salt them *after coving them with olive oil. 

 And then he puts mango chutney on them or something. I don't get it. They come out dry and oily and tasteless, with fruit and bits of leaf and twig on them. 

 You don't want to know what his baking skills are like. They say a good cook is usually a bad baker, and he's not that good of a cook._

 

Pffff the French can't bake... but the Germans really can. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You are very lucky to experience the traditional way of making pastries and bread. While I'm not much of a fan of the French way it is quite a bit better then most other countries. 

 There is quite a lot of Americans that come here to get married and it's always funny to introduce them to the traditional cakes we bake. Very light and fluffy cream cakes when people are used to icing and stuff like that. There was this lady from Boston in my shop a week ago and she bought all I had of one type of pastries (about 50-60 pieces) and said she was taking them home with her. She had bought one a day before said this was the single best thing about coming here and asked if I would send her some every week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The company I know own is Iceland's oldest company (still in business) and oldest bakery founded in 1834. We use the newest ovens and machines but we still make every piece we sell by hand, nothing is automated. It's very expensive in terms of manpower but if you want quality that's what it takes. 

 People like to use less and less salt but if you less then 30grams per liter of water the bread will taste very odd. If you go much over it there will be a strong aftertaste. It's all about the golden middle. Don't get me started on those fancy seasalts and salt imported from the moon or something. People should wake up and see we're only after the Na so get your head out of your arse. 

 I hate all chefs I've ever met for the simple reason that they think you can make everything in 20 minutes. They think it takes about 10 minutes to make and bake a whole rack of breads while it can take more then 4 days of preparation, proofing and baking.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_....if you less then 30grams per liter of water the bread will taste very odd. If you go much over it there will be a strong aftertaste. It's all about the golden middle ...._

 

so the big secret is now divulged.....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so the big secret is now divulged.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not such a big secret. It would be great if more people stuck to this.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hate all chefs I've ever met for the simple reason that they think you can make everything in 20 minutes. They think it takes about 10 minutes to make and bake a whole rack of breads while it can take more then 4 days of preparation, proofing and baking._

 

Yeah, people always look at me like I've just grown antlers when i suggest that they proof their loaves overnight in the fridge. 

 Even the ones who have already tried that with sticky buns.

 People just don't realize that speed kills.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, people always look at me like I've just grown antlers when i suggest that they proof their loaves overnight in the fridge. 

 Even the ones who have already tried that with sticky buns.

 People just don't realize that speed kills._

 

We do the same thing but on a slightly larger scale... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you want to bake something right away you need to add enzymes and emulsifier's to help with the gluten buildup. Back in the day this was included in the yeast all bakeries made them selfs but today we get manufactured yeast so we get it in powered form. This also adds to the time we can freeze unbaked goods. 

 We are moving towards cold proofing most types overnight. It makes the job much more like a day job rather then like it is today. Some people can't handle to wake up at 3 in the morning.


----------



## ericj

Alright, well, back on topic. Or mostly back on topic at least. 

 My 2nd E.9 energizer showed up. This is a 117v version with the crazy three-pronged toaster power socket. 

 Drilled out rivets, enlarged hole with a nibbler, popped in IEC power socket, spent 20 minutes figuring out where some loose wires go, and now I'm up and running. 

 No hum in this unit. It has the dual bias transformers, as seen in Duggeh's E.9 and the schematic.


----------



## spritzer

Very glad to see that this is working finally. 

 Btw. I'm going to some major surgery on my ESP9 and remove both ear cup boards and fit them inside the /E.9. That way I can have a normal Stax standard phone but when I connect them to the /E.9 they will be like Koss intended.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Bread-making and Stax addictions: I love this thread!


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *captian73* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm on the of buying the Stax SR-001 mk2 system, but i've heard a few nagative commnets about the build quality. any comments please?_

 

IMHO, the build quality is just fine and is on par with any other personal audio device in it's price range. The energizer is all plastic of course but it is sturdy enough. In addition, the ear speakers themselves are about as sturdy as any other headphone in the same price range. I don't think you will be disappointed.

 Happy Listening!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *captian73* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm on the of buying the Stax SR-001 mk2 system, but i've heard a few nagative commnets about the build quality. any comments please?_

 

Stax headphones have been this plastic-y looking since 1960 but they last for decades with proper handling. Stax has always built the housings on a steep budget but spent more money on the drivers.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_...the PSRR is somewhat lacking._

 

PSRR

PSRR

 PSRR

 Isn't "Bandgap Ripple" something we used to drink in college? It'd make a great name for a rock band composed entirely of EE students..

 Sorry, Couldn't Resist (SCR).


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very glad to see that this is working finally. 

 Btw. I'm going to some major surgery on my ESP9 and remove both ear cup boards and fit them inside the /E.9. That way I can have a normal Stax standard phone but when I connect them to the /E.9 they will be like Koss intended._

 

Interesting tactic. 

 By the way, does anybody know for sure what the two little passive components inside every stax earcup are? In parallel with the driver, two in series, must be protection zeners, or compensation capacitors that have to be two-in-series to make the voltage requirement. 

 Since I've got two E.9's now, I'm considering gutting the nonworking one and rebuilding it based on the SRD-7 schematic. If that works at all well, it might be worth it to staxify my ESP9. 

 I mean, these things certainly aren't worth so much money that it would be a waste to tear down the E.9 that i could potentially fix. 

 The SRD-7 schematic just looks So Much Simpler than all the insanity inside the E.9.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting tactic. 

 By the way, does anybody know for sure what the two little passive components inside every stax earcup are? In parallel with the driver, two in series, must be protection zeners, or compensation capacitors that have to be two-in-series to make the voltage requirement. 

 Since I've got two E.9's now, I'm considering gutting the nonworking one and rebuilding it based on the SRD-7 schematic. If that works at all well, it might be worth it to staxify my ESP9. 

 I mean, these things certainly aren't worth so much money that it would be a waste to tear down the E.9 that i could potentially fix. 

 The SRD-7 schematic just looks So Much Simpler than all the insanity inside the E.9._

 

I think they are triac's or some other protection diodes. They are there to prevent the stators of reaching voltages that are double the bias voltage. If that happens arcing is inevitable. This is mostly left off the pro series but most normal units have it. Some other manufacturers put it in the adapter instead of the phones. 

 The /E.9 and the Stax boxes use a vastly different system where the Stax is a true push-pull and the Koss is pseudo single ended. Converting the /E.9 would be easy and you could even put in a variable bias supply with a built in meter. Now that would be cool!!


----------



## Don Quichotte

Sorry to interrupt with a much more prosaic question, but I would like to use a voltmeter to measure the channel balance of my srm313 amp (using some sine waves as a constant, mono source). Is this possible? Between which holes on the Stax socket should I measure for left and right respectively? Thanks.


----------



## ericj

You'd be better off with a dual-channel oscilloscope and a pair of 10:1 probes.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The /E.9 and the Stax boxes use a vastly different system where the Stax is a true push-pull and the Koss is pseudo single ended. Converting the /E.9 would be easy and you could even put in a variable bias supply with a built in meter. Now that would be cool!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How would you suggest doing the variable bias supply? 

 The most obvious method that comes to mind is to build the voltage multiplier in a ladder configuration and have a switch that selects individual stages. 

 This would be pretty compelling if we actually knew what the esp9 bias is really supposed to be . . .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to interrupt with a much more prosaic question, but I would like to use a voltmeter to measure the channel balance of my srm313 amp (using some sine waves as a constant, mono source). Is this possible? Between which holes on the Stax socket should I measure for left and right respectively? Thanks._

 

Dunno about the measuring but here is the Stax socket.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would you suggest doing the variable bias supply? 

 The most obvious method that comes to mind is to build the voltage multiplier in a ladder configuration and have a switch that selects individual stages. 

 This would be pretty compelling if we actually knew what the esp9 bias is really supposed to be . . ._

 

Here is the adjustable bias supply Kevin Gilmore drew up. It's the same one that is in his amps. 



 I have built this transformer less and it works fine. You can buy on the_auction_site a lcd panel meter that measures up to 1kv and you have a variable bias supply with a digital readout. 

 I've never found any thing that makes any sense when measuring my /E.9 but that was before I got the schematic. Now I just can't be bothered to get it from storage and test it. Way too many new toys to test. Like now I'm starting to remember why I loaned the Lambda Pro to begin with. Why do people like it so much?


----------



## AudioCats

getting more and more interesting now....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 what is this variable bias circuit's transformer's output supposed to be, like 500V?

 By the way, do anybody know what kind of music signal voltage is applied to the headphone plates, somewhere around 50-100V or 500-1000V? The ES tweeter transformers are 1:50, two transformer per channel (they sell in pairs so I assume two per side), each one goes 500v at a normal 10W output setting, so they normally run at least 1000V, am I right? how about the headphones?


----------



## ericj

Looks to me like a transformer with a 230v secondary, and a voltage doubler. 

 Taking probable regulation characteristics of the trasformer into consideration, it probably gets up to near 650-700 volts. 

 iirc, gilmour has mentioned seeing audio voltages of up to 3kv peak to peak on headphones - with one of his direct-drive amps.


----------



## spritzer

All amps have a maximum output voltage rating. The Blue Hawaii, ES-1 and the T2 are the voltage kings. The BH can put out some 1500v p-p and the others something similar. You should never need to go above 400v but the extra power in necessary with the SR-007 because without it they are horrible. 

 Speakers use a much higher bias, from some 1500v to 12kv in the latest Sound Lab, so they need higher driver voltages. It isn't like it is a strict ratio between them because a normal bias phone will be about as loud as a pro phone on the same voltage setting. It's always funny when people say that electrostats are simple...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks to me like a transformer with a 230v secondary, and a voltage doubler. 

 Taking probable regulation characteristics of the trasformer into consideration, it probably gets up to near 650-700 volts. 

 iirc, gilmour has mentioned seeing audio voltages of up to 3kv peak to peak on headphones - with one of his direct-drive amps._

 

You don't really need the transformer here... ohhh you still use the crappy 117v. My bad... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is 230v secondary transformer I'm gonna see what I can crank mine up to tomorrow. 

 The Koss E.90 can reach some 2Kv but voltage isn't everything. It does help though because the BH adds an extra octave of bass to every headphone you plug into it. Oodles of standing power do help because the amps draws nearly 200w and gives out 0.1w...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting tactic. 

 The SRD-7 schematic just looks So Much Simpler than all the insanity inside the E.9._

 

Some of the junk in this unit is there to boost the high frequencies.

 Some years back I took in my E9 to an EE designer, who built the SUMO series of Class A power amps, because I needed to get rid of the common ground in order to use his amp. He took a pile of stuff out of the E9 and then asked if I wanted to get rid of a high frequency emphasis. I said yes and he ripped more out. Well, the phones definitely had less treble after that and I don't like it.

 It was this guy, Jim Bongiorno. I didn't realize at the time he was a big audio name. 

http://www.tnt-audio.com/intervis/bongiorno_e.html

 Anyway he had some choice things to say about the "rat's nest" of wiring in the E-9


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of the junk in this unit is there to boost the high frequencies._

 

Interesting. I presume that he left the topology in koss's original semi-single-ended layout? 

 Any comments from someone who's completely staxified an ESP9?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I presume that he left the topology in koss's original semi-single-ended layout? 

 Any comments from someone who's completely staxified an ESP9?_

 

I don't know if anybody has staxified a set yet. I'm looking for a good 6 conductor cable and I might have found something that will work so I should do it soon.


----------



## ericj

Ah. For me the issue is forking over the dough for connectors. I've got plenty of 22awg spc wire, and expandable sleeving . . .


----------



## spritzer

I've got plenty of connectors and 22AWG wire. I cleared Allied out at one point... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I need a good cable for my other electrostatic projects so this will wait with them. I can't stand techflex on headphone cables...


----------



## edstrelow

I was looking for a SRXMkIII that I might cannabalize to get replace a bad transducer in the set I recently got and found another set on EBAY with the following warning.

 "These STAX SR-X MARK 3 electrostatic headphones were bought as part of an auction I won. I am selling them as I already have another pair of Electrostatic Headphones. They were sold to me as having a fault on the left speaker. A friend took them apart and fixed a dodgy joint and got them working again! *But they only seem to work fully when driven from an old type Stax energiser which has transformers on the output as my both of my energisers which are fully electronic produce a strange intermittent pumping noise in both channels*"
 What in Hades could be wrong here? There is no obvious reason I can think of for a set of these to work with a transforner but not an amp. 

 My first thought was that the "friend" just connected the bias and signal leads incorrectly. If so these might be ok for my purposes, or even if only one side is ok. How many ways can you screw these up?


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sad to hear you didn't like them but this is all about trial and error. I've never tried the Raytheon branded tubes since mine are marked Toshiba and in my modded T1 they were far and away the most neutral._

 

Maybe it's the amp?

  Quote:


 Btw. Was the biasing like the instructions I sent to you or has Stax changed something? 
 

Instructions matched reality.


----------



## patrickamory

Btw, little comment in this thread on the GES amp... and somewhat inconclusive discussion on the amps forum. Does it really only output 500V peak-to-peak, like the Gilmore design on which it was based?

 Edit: discussion seems to be a bit more conclusive now


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking for a SRXMkIII that I might cannabalize to get replace a bad transducer in the set I recently got and found another set on EBAY with the following warning.

 "These STAX SR-X MARK 3 electrostatic headphones were bought as part of an auction I won. I am selling them as I already have another pair of Electrostatic Headphones. They were sold to me as having a fault on the left speaker. A friend took them apart and fixed a dodgy joint and got them working again! *But they only seem to work fully when driven from an old type Stax energiser which has transformers on the output as my both of my energisers which are fully electronic produce a strange intermittent pumping noise in both channels*"
 What in Hades could be wrong here? There is no obvious reason I can think of for a set of these to work with a transforner but not an amp. 

 My first thought was that the "friend" just connected the bias and signal leads incorrectly. If so these might be ok for my purposes, or even if only one side is ok. How many ways can you screw these up?_

 

The only time I've heard something like this the bias wasn't properly connected and cut in and out. There is no reason that an amp shouldn't be able to drive them instead of the adapter unless somebody did something wrong. I have noticed that many times people say the phones are functioning like new because they don't know any better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe it's the amp?_

 

Could be. These amps are similar but not the same. Stax might have done some revoicing when they had to switch to the Ei and EH tubes 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Instructions matched reality._

 

Good to hear


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only time I've heard something like this the bias wasn't properly connected and cut in and out. There is no reason that an amp shouldn't be able to drive them instead of the adapter unless somebody did something wrong. I have noticed that many times people say the phones are functioning like new because they don't know any better. _

 

I think I will take a pass on these. I am afraid of holes in the diaphragms. 

 If anyone here has a set of SRXIII's with only one side running well, I would be interested.


----------



## mikeg

MY CONCLUSION REGARDING THE WOO GES AMP WAS WRONG. SEE MY POST #103 AT THE FOLLOWING THREAD: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=205708&page=5

 The results of my evaluation of the Woo Audio GES amp are disappointing. This evaluation is shown as my post #66, at the following thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=205708&page=3

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess that, at least for now, I'll stick with my motto, which is "if it sounds good, it is good". 

 BTW, another posting regarding the GES is #463 at http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...236593&page=19

*So far there are only complementary postings about this amp*._


----------



## spritzer

Some impressions on the newest arrivals...

*SR-Gamma*

 These phones are really small!! They use a cheaper headband then the Lambda series and the top of the strap starts to break down with age but it can be cleaned off and doesn't impact the comfort. The sound is very good over the board but they lack a little warmth and the housing vibrates with the bass and that gives an odd coloration but it's subtle. The treble is clear and extended but thin like the rest of the sound and the same goes for the midrange. There isn't much soundstage to speak off because the drivers are very close to the ears. This thin nature makes the harmonics sound a bit off but makes them a lot of fun to listen to. 
 They will never be considered reference quality and the earpads are way to small so they start to bother you pretty soon but they are a good step up from the SR-5. 

*SR-Lambda Professional*

 I bought a set of these some years ago but never used them all that much and they have been on extended loan for most of the time. Being the nut job I am, I bought a second set in near NOS condition to have around. On first listen it all came back to me why I loaned them away, the deeply recessed midrange, bright and peaky highs and the flappy and quite frankly strange bass. This midrange depression is very annoying and it never fully goes away. Voices and instruments sound like they are in a closed off room some meters back from the rest of the sound spectrum. The highs have the same slight brightness as the SR-Lambda but they aren't as smooth and natural, instead they are peaky and sound a bit off. The bass is very heavy handed and at the same time very flat and has no texture to it. This makes it sound slightly detached from the midrange almost like a Martin-Logan. 

 They shocked me so much that I'll have to agree with the Stereophile review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 from 1984 and say, compare them to the other Lambdas before you buy. For my tastes the normal bias Lambda and the Signature are much more neutral phones, though each in their own way and with their own flaws. I suspect that most of these could be rectified by removing the fiber glass inside the cups (it worked wonders on the SR-Lambda) but since this set is in such good condition I won't dare to try it. The collector in me wants these to be like they are so I'll have to buy a new set just to try out my theory.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some impressions on the newest arrivals...


*SR-Lambda Professional*

 I bought a set of these some years ago but never used them all that much and they have been on extended loan for most of the time. Being the nut job I am, I bought a second set in near NOS condition to have around. On first listen it all came back to me why I loaned them away, the deeply recessed midrange, bright and peaky highs and the flappy and quite frankly strange bass. This midrange depression is very annoying and it never fully goes away. Voices and instruments sound like they are in a closed off room some meters back from the rest of the sound spectrum. The highs have the same slight brightness as the SR-Lambda but they aren't as smooth and natural, instead they are peaky and sound a bit off. The bass is very heavy handed and at the same time very flat and has no texture to it. This makes it sound slightly detached from the midrange almost like a Martin-Logan. 

 They shocked me so much that I'll have to agree with the Stereophile review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 from 1984 and say, compare them to the other Lambdas before you buy. For my tastes the normal bias Lambda and the Signature are much more neutral phones, though each in their own way and with their own flaws. I suspect that most of these could be rectified by removing the fiber glass inside the cups (it worked wonders on the SR-Lambda) but since this set is in such good condition I won't dare to try it. The collector in me wants these to be like they are so I'll have to buy a new set just to try out my theory. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is so confusing keeping track of the Lambda variations. In a sense every Lambda since about 1988 is a Lambda pro, however, here I assume you are discussing the original Lambda pro, which is listed on the Stax history page from 1982. 

 As I understand the differences between models, there are 5 notable design differences among the Lambdas:

 1) High Bias (pro) vs. low bias,

 2) Fiber backing behind the transducers, vs no fiber,

 3) Copper honeycomb stators vs. wire mesh

 4) High vs low capacitance cables

 5) Diaphragm thickness, currently about 1.35 microns?

 This Lambda pro is, I assume High bias, w fiber backing, w copper honeycomb stator, w. high capacitance cable and thick diaphragm.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is so confusing keeping track of the Lambda variations. In a sense every Lambda since about 1988 is a Lambda pro, however, here I assume you are discussing the original Lambda pro, which is listed on the Stax history page from 1982. 

 As I understand the differences between models, there are 5 notable design differences among the Lambdas:

 1) High Bias (pro) vs. low bias,

 2) Fiber backing behind the transducers, vs no fiber,

 3) Copper honeycomb stators vs. wire mesh

 4) High vs low capacitance cables

 5) Diaphragm thickness, currently about 1.35 microns?

 This Lambda pro is, I assume High bias, w fiber backing, w copper honeycomb stator, w. high capacitance cable and thick diaphragm._

 

These are the 1982 models. They are identical to the SR-Lambda except for the diaphragm/stator spacing. Same cable (original ribbon cable), 2um diaphragm, glass fiber in the earcups and perforated plates for stators. 

 In 1987 there was the SR-Lambda Signature (there was no Pro in the name) and they used the 1um diaphragm, no glass fiber in the earcups and the PC-OCC cable and perforated plate stators.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... For my tastes the normal bias Lambda and the Signature are much more neutral phones, though each in their own way and with their own flaws._

 

I'm glad someone else likes the original Lambda. My Lambda Pro's sound real good with my SRM-1mkII Pro, but every time I put on the Lambda (low bias) phones it's like going back to Quad 57's. They just make music enjoyable. 

 They are a good bargain used.

 AudioD


----------



## Duggeh

Is is possible to put lambda pads on the Gamma? The Gamma-Pro would probably be my choice for running as a transportable rig with the SRM-212. Not that such a rig is going to happen any time soon.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad someone else likes the original Lambda. My Lambda Pro's sound real good with my SRM-1mkII Pro, but every time I put on the Lambda (low bias) phones it's like going back to Quad 57's. They just make music enjoyable. 

 They are a good bargain used._

 

No, don't make the normal bias Lambdas FOTM yet, I want to pick up a pair first!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad someone else likes the original Lambda. My Lambda Pro's sound real good with my SRM-1mkII Pro, but every time I put on the Lambda (low bias) phones it's like going back to Quad 57's. They just make music enjoyable. 

 They are a good bargain used.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very, very good headphones. You should try them with the fiber glass removed. They are IMO much better like that, more effortless and relaxed. 

 The Pro's are good but the older brother is simply better to these ears. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is is possible to put lambda pads on the Gamma? The Gamma-Pro would probably be my choice for running as a transportable rig with the SRM-212. Not that such a rig is going to happen any time soon._

 

Node the Lambda pads are too long. The SR-007 pads are a bit too big but they could work. I just tried them on top of the Gamma pads and that urned them into bass monsters.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, don't make the normal bias Lambdas FOTM yet, I want to pick up a pair first! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are rising in price fast on ebay but they are still much cheaper then the Pro's. Many think that the normal versions are simply outdated and obsolete junk and that's fine by me...


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, don't make the normal bias Lambdas FOTM yet, I want to pick up a pair first! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What's that...normal bias lambdas are superior to pro bias Lambdas


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad someone else likes the original Lambda. My Lambda Pro's sound real good with my SRM-1mkII Pro, but every time I put on the Lambda (low bias) phones it's like going back to Quad 57's. They just make music enjoyable. 

 They are a good bargain used.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I have a similar reaction to the differences between the low Bias Sigma and the Sigma pro. The older phone was somewhat more relaxed and musical. However it doesn't do dynamics as well as the pro. But that is part of the story, lesser dynamics equates to more ambience. The question for each listener is what sounds either more euphonic or more accurate.

 Still, if someone just wanted one Sigma I would say go for the pro unless your could get a low bias much more cheaply, or a Sigma/404. 

 Nevertheless, it's nice to have the older models around for an acoustic vacation.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_MY CONCLUSION REGARDING THE WOO GES AMP WAS WRONG. SEE MY POST #103 AT THE FOLLOWING THREAD: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=205708&page=5_

 

Great to hear that it was your fault, and nothing major wrong with the amplifier (construction).
 Would like to hear your take on the GES, but hopefully connected straight to the source and not through those RCA y-splitters.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*SR-Lambda Professional*

 I bought a set of these some years ago but never used them all that much and they have been on extended loan for most of the time. Being the nut job I am, I bought a second set in near NOS condition to have around. On first listen it all came back to me why I loaned them away, the deeply recessed midrange, bright and peaky highs and the flappy and quite frankly strange bass. This midrange depression is very annoying and it never fully goes away. Voices and instruments sound like they are in a closed off room some meters back from the rest of the sound spectrum. The highs have the same slight brightness as the SR-Lambda but they aren't as smooth and natural, instead they are peaky and sound a bit off. The bass is very heavy handed and at the same time very flat and has no texture to it. This makes it sound slightly detached from the midrange almost like a Martin-Logan. 

 They shocked me so much that I'll have to agree with the Stereophile review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 from 1984 and say, compare them to the other Lambdas before you buy. For my tastes the normal bias Lambda and the Signature are much more neutral phones, though each in their own way and with their own flaws. I suspect that most of these could be rectified by removing the fiber glass inside the cups (it worked wonders on the SR-Lambda) but since this set is in such good condition I won't dare to try it. The collector in me wants these to be like they are so I'll have to buy a new set just to try out my theory. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Owning two SR-Lambda Pro', and reading how you fancy the SR-Lambda over the Pro makes me _really_ want to pick up a SR-Lambda pair.
 Most probably my next buy...


----------



## mikeg

See my post #112 at the following thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=1#post2931756

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to hear that it was your fault, and nothing major wrong with the amplifier (construction).
*Would like to hear your take on the GES, but hopefully connected straight to the source and not through those RCA y-splitters.*


 Owning two SR-Lambda Pro', and reading how you fancy the SR-Lambda over the Pro makes me really want to pick up a SR-Lambda pair.
 Most probably my next buy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See my post #112 at the following thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=1#post2931756_

 

Sorry! I missed that post..


----------



## krmathis

The latest addition to my main Stax rig.
 A balanced (XLR) *Ridge Street Audio Designs Poiema!!! Signature* interconnect.







 Damn! This sure is a great cable.
 Cryo threaded silver in natural isolation sound great!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Owning two SR-Lambda Pro', and reading how you fancy the SR-Lambda over the Pro makes me really want to pick up a SR-Lambda pair.
 Most probably my next buy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are quite simply much better. The Lambda Pro's have their fans but they are far from neutral and I value that above all else, which brings us to the next matter...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The latest addition to my main Stax rig.
 A balanced (XLR) *Ridge Street Audio Designs Poiema!!! Signature* interconnect.







 Damn! This sure is a great cable.
 Cryo threaded silver in natural isolation sound great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

...I know!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Give them a few hundred hours to settle down and they will amaze you. They are a giant killers with only a few cables that are better and they cost a whole lot more. 

 Now get somebody to upgrade the internals of the dac for some real improvements in sound quality.

 Edit. Those power cables have to go also.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I know!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Give them a few hundred hours to settle down and they will amaze you. They are a giant killers with only a few cables that are better and they cost a whole lot more._

 

Can't wait for the P!!! to break-in completely.
 It surpasses my 'Silver Resolution Balanced' out of the box, and I am certain that it will get even better.
  Quote:


 Now get somebody to upgrade the internals of the dac for some real improvements in sound quality. 
 

Well, I might consider when the ECD1 go out of warranty. But until then I am keeping it stock.
  Quote:


 Edit. Those power cables have to go also. 
 

I sure know!
 A couple of P!!! power cables would be great. But not sure if I am willing to spend all that money (~$2000) "just" on power cables. Hmmm...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't wait for the P!!! to break-in completely.
 It surpasses my 'Silver Resolution Balanced' out of the box, and I am certain that it will get even better._

 

I've managed to surpass them with my own cables but it took a bit of work. What these cables excel is to get the hell out of the way and let the music flow. These aren't recommended for people that think cables are tone controls... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I might consider when the ECD1 go out of warranty. But until then I am keeping it stock._

 

Wuss... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sure know!
 A couple of P!!! power cables would be great. But not sure if I am willing to spend all that money (~$2000) "just" on power cables. Hmmm..._

 

You don't have to spend that much. Buy some Furutech Schuko and iec connectors, techflex, teflon tubing and solid soft silver wire 18-14AWG and build some PC's that destoy almost everything out there. You should also look into the Furutech outlets and installing a dedicated line to the breaker box. It's a huge upgrade in terms of transparency and dynamics.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't have to spend that much. Buy some Furutech Schuko and iec connectors, techflex, teflon tubing and solid soft silver wire 18-14AWG and build some PC's that destoy almost everything out there._

 

That sounds like a plan! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The Furutech connectors are expensive in Norway (FI-25 Rhodium = $130, FI-E35 Rhodium = $115). Do you possibly know a cheaper place to buy from?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That sounds like a plan! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The Furutech connectors are expensive in Norway (FI-25 Rhodium = $130, FI-E35 Rhodium = $115). Do you possibly know a cheaper place to buy from?_

 

VH Audio has them. Handmade Electronics carries silver wire, techflex and teflon tubing. I've bought from both of them in the past an both are excellent.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_VH Audio has them. Handmade Electronics carries silver wire, techflex and teflon tubing. I've bought from both of them in the past an both are excellent._

 

Better priced Furutech connectors, and silver wire etc. which I need to build my own power cables. Great!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better priced Furutech connectors, and silver wire etc. which I need to build my own power cables. Great!_

 

I aim to please...


----------



## audiod

The Woo GES seems to have at least 8 audio coupling caps per channel. Doesn’t that seem like a lot to put the audio signal through for a modern design?


----------



## ericj

Depends how you look at it. Capacitance is additive in parallel and subtractive in series. The voltage handling of caps is additive in series - the usual reason you see caps in series. 

 In any case, one capacitative stage is much like another, all things being equal. How it performs is a matter of careful planning, measurements, diagnostics, and tuning. A bunch of caps in parallel or series is not necessarily better or worse than one giant cap. They're just different means to the same end.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Woo GES seems to have at least 8 audio coupling caps per channel. Doesn’t that seem like a lot to put the audio signal through for a modern design?_

 

I seems excessive but there are quite a few stages there and it is balanced by nature. The quality of the caps has the biggest impact and an amp at this price point will always be let down by the quality of the caps. The same goes for the Aristaeus even though it is much more expensive. C'mon the Mundorf Silver-Oil caps aren't that much more expensive... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can also go the really high end Japanese way (Kondo) and use interstage transformers but again quality is everything and the good ones aren't exactly cheap.


----------



## Carl




----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

That pic reminds me of a very funny story but I doubt that it is PC enough for Head-fi... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only thing I think that were suffering from the lack of new purchases. There is nothing wrong with a little baking talk when things die down...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only thing I think that were suffering from the lack of new purchases. There is nothing wrong with a little baking talk when things die down... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The only thing I've bought recently is a turntable (hey, it has a Stax arm, that counts right!?).

 Also, I must reply to that PM you sent me. I forgot all about it.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Spritzer

 I trust you're right about the stock cables on the SR-X Mk3 being 'not-very-good' (insert your own expletive): I've just snaffled a set of SR-5 (flat ribbon) NOS cables from Revaud, for about almost as much as the SR-Xs cost in the first place!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer

 I trust you're right about the stock cables on the SR-X Mk3 being 'not-very-good' (insert your own expletive): I've just snaffled a set of SR-5 (flat ribbon) NOS cables from Revaud, for about almost as much as the SR-Xs cost in the first place!_

 

The SR-5N's cable isn't exactly something to write home about, either.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only thing I've bought recently is a turntable (hey, it has a Stax arm, that counts right!?).

 Also, I must reply to that PM you sent me. I forgot all about it._

 

Anything with a Stax label is good enough for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Was is a Micro you bought or something else?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer

 I trust you're right about the stock cables on the SR-X Mk3 being 'not-very-good' (insert your own expletive): I've just snaffled a set of SR-5 (flat ribbon) NOS cables from Revaud, for about almost as much as the SR-Xs cost in the first place!_

 

I believe this the original flat cable so it is the same I used on my set. It managed to tame the sibilance a bit but it's still there. There is a bit more detail and clearer highs but most of all it isn't microphonic and much more user friendly. It's a clear step in the right direction.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anything with a Stax label is good enough for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Was is a Micro you bought or something else?_

 

No, unfortunately. My 'dream machine' is a Micro RX1500, but I just can't afford one right now, but I need to back into the vinyl (I've been turntableless for almost two years now. Too long) so I found a Yamaha YP-1000 (basically a SP-10 motor and a UA-7 arm on a moderately good plinth) for a reasonable price. It'll do in the meantime.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, unfortunately. My 'dream machine' is a Micro RX1500, but I just can't afford one right now, but I need to back into the vinyl (I've been turntableless for almost two years now. Too long) so I found a Yamaha YP-1000 (basically a SP-10 motor and a UA-7 arm on a moderately good plinth) for a reasonable price. It'll do in the meantime._

 

Very good deck you've got there. A Michell Orbe has been taunting me lately but I'm trying to hold off. I need a better CDP and that's going to be very expensive.


----------



## Duggeh

Better than the G08? Eep. Isnt it all about "flavour" at that level of G08s and Saturns and Wadias?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better than the G08? Eep. Isnt it all about "flavour" at that level of G08s and Saturns and Wadias?_

 

Flavor is part of it but there is much more sound quality to be had. I'm thinking about the APL2.5T but I've just had this nutty idea of buying one of the older TOTL units (ML, Wadia, Accuphase, Stax) and mod them extensively. While they are "out dated" the build quality is mind blowing and a few thousand in parts will make them killer.


----------



## aural-matters

Got a serious problem with my Stax. Just now, I had some serious attenuation on the right channel - a loose connector. Unfortunately, I couldn't fix it properly by messing with the connector, so I took them apart. Had some trouble getting them back together (it took several attempts to stop the arcing) but now I'm back to square one, ableit with an invalid warranty. I could use some help on how to fix the connector without causing arcing or screwing the whole thing up...

 Any help is much appreciated.

 Thanks
 -Steve


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very good deck you've got there. A Michell Orbe has been taunting me lately but I'm trying to hold off. I need a better CDP and that's going to be very expensive._

 

Mitchell make some delicious stuff. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better than the G08? Eep. Isnt it all about "flavour" at that level of G08s and Saturns and Wadias?_

 

The Meridian stuff have nice topologies, but the chips they use are cheap and nasty little bleeders.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Flavor is part of it but there is much more sound quality to be had. I'm thinking about the APL2.5T but I've just had this nutty idea of buying one of the older TOTL units (ML, Wadia, Accuphase, Stax) and mod them extensively. While they are "out dated" the build quality is mind blowing and a few thousand in parts will make them killer._

 

I'm thinking about just ripping the great parts out of a early/mid-90s player and building something from scratch. Such is my distaste for most commercial DACs.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aural-matters* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a serious problem with my Stax. Just now, I had some serious attenuation on the right channel - a loose connector. Unfortunately, I couldn't fix it properly by messing with the connector, so I took them apart. Had some trouble getting them back together (it took several attempts to stop the arcing) but now I'm back to square one, ableit with an invalid warranty. I could use some help on how to fix the connector without causing arcing or screwing the whole thing up...

 Any help is much appreciated.

 Thanks
 -Steve_

 

Have you got any photos? I'd imagine your distributer will still fix them, they'll just charge you for the priveldge.


----------



## Chiliman

How does the lambda pro compare to current models of stax headphones?

 (especially concerning models that aren't the omegas)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the lambda pro compare to current models of stax headphones?

 (especially concerning models that aren't the omegas)_

 

The older Lambdas still sound pretty good, but the price of the LP has been a bit too inflated of late. If you can get a good deal on one, go for it.


----------



## Chiliman

so would you recommend a newer version for me (303, 404), or a lambda pro


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so would you recommend a newer version for me (303, 404), or a lambda pro_

 

It depends. I'd take a Lambda/Lambda Pro/Lambda Sig over the Novas and x0x families, but just as a matter of taste. The 303/404 could be more musically involving unfortunately, although they are fuller sounding than the LP and LS. I'd imagine the original Lambda has better tonality than the pro bias ones, but will also lack in dynamics.

 Just go for whatever suits your taste and current rig better and not get stressed over qualifying any particular model as "better" would be my suggestion.


----------



## aural-matters

No photos, cos my digital camera aint working at the moment...

 -Steve


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mitchell make some delicious stuff._

 

Very tasty stuff indeed but slightly underrated outside of the UK. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Meridian stuff have nice topologies, but the chips they use are cheap and nasty little bleeders._

 

There is nothing in there, it's all dsp based, with a switching PSU and that horrible computer drive. While the parts and user interface are lacking it's musical and pleasing and responds well to neutral cables unlike most other cdp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking about just ripping the great parts out of a early/mid-90s player and building something from scratch. Such is my distaste for most commercial DACs._

 

I'm with you there. People are obsessed with treble detail and soundstage these days, so everything sounds forced and strained. It's like musicality and layering was sacrificed for the instant "Oooh this sounds great" effect. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chiliman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the lambda pro compare to current models of stax headphones?

 (especially concerning models that aren't the omegas)_

 

The Lambda Pro's are very colored headphones compared to either the SR-Lambda or the Lambda Signature. The bass is loose and disjointed, the midrange is hugely recessed and the highs slightly brittle and peaky. The 404 is just like a further refined version of the Signature but with fewer issues. I is definitely down to taste and system matching but for me the other Lambdas are simply more neutral and more musical and the price for the Pro's is just nuts. I you are buying a mint condition set 300-400$ is ok but not for a beat up set.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very tasty stuff indeed but slightly underrated outside of the UK._

 

People just tend to fall into a particular well-travelled camp (Thorens, Dual, Technics, Rega, etc) and stop experimenting. I guess this plagues audiophilia on a more general level, actually.


 Now I've got to decide what cartridge to get for my new aquisition. It's proving to be more mentally straining than I had imagined it would be.

  Quote:


 There is nothing in there, it's all dsp based, with a switching PSU and that horrible computer drive. While the parts and user interface are lacking it's musical and pleasing and responds well to neutral cables unlike most other cdp. 
 

I thought they used those nasty Cirrus Logic chips? Or was that just the 508?

  Quote:


 I'm with you there. People are obsessed with treble detail and soundstage these days, so everything sounds forced and strained. It's like musicality and layering was sacrificed for the instant "Oooh this sounds great" effect. 
 

That "soundstage" is all just artificially created because the digital filter chips they use in 99% of DACs (even those expensive NPC chips) destroy the natural expansion of the music. This is why non upsampling DACs sound so nice even with their flaws. As far as I'm concerned, any digital filter other than Pacific Microsonics and Yamaha ones isn't worth bothering with for a serious DAC.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_People just tend to fall into a particular well-travelled camp (Thorens, Dual, Technics, Rega, etc) and stop experimenting. I guess this plagues audiophilia on a more general level, actually.


 Now I've got to decide what cartridge to get for my new aquisition. It's proving to be more mentally straining than I had imagined it would be._

 

Cartridges make me glad I'm more of a digital nut. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If I were to go off the deep end I would go for a Transfiguration Orpheus but that's insanely expensive but very natural and neutral. The Lyra's sound very nice at a lower price. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought they used those nasty Cirrus Logic chips? Or was that just the 508?_

 

The 508 might have used that but the 588 was mostly DSP and the G08 is filled computer chips. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That "soundstage" is all just artificially created because the digital filter chips they use in 99% of DACs (even those expensive NPC chips) destroy the natural expansion of the music. This is why non upsampling DACs sound so nice even with their flaws. As far as I'm concerned, any digital filter other than Pacific Microsonics and Yamaha ones isn't worth bothering with for a serious DAC._

 

Most off the shelf stuff is very compromised. The sad bit is that very few bother to do it properly. I really want a Stax X1t and a ML 30 because they bothered to do something new.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cartridges make me glad I'm more of a digital nut. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I were to go off the deep end I would go for a Transfiguration Orpheus but that's insanely expensive but very natural and neutral. The Lyra's sound very nice at a lower price._

 

I'm more interested something fast, powerful, and emotionally transportative, so I'm thinking of going for a high output moving iron, rather than the more conventional MCs. It's hard shopping for your first new cartridge as you have so little to go by.

  Quote:


 Most off the shelf stuff is very compromised. The sad bit is that very few bother to do it properly. I really want a Stax X1t and a ML 30 because they bothered to do something new. 
 

The X1t is lovely, but why in the name of all things good did they decide to use the 12AX7? That's like fitting budget retread tires on an open-wheel racer. I bet if one replaced the 'X7 cascode (or was it a mu or cathode follower?) with a nicer tube stage with minimal feedback the thing would sound much tighter and more acute.

 If I was allowed to go really crazy I'd strip off the analogue sections of a Pacific Microsonics Model Two and build a no-NFB DHT tube stage for it. Unfortunately I lack the $20000+ that that would require.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm more interested something fast, powerful, and emotionally transportative, so I'm thinking of going for a high output moving iron, rather than the more conventional MCs. It's hard shopping for your first new cartridge as you have so little to go by._

 

Isn't Grado right up your ally then? I have only listened to a Grado cartridge once and it was in an unfamiliar rig so I can't really compare it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The X1t is lovely, but why in the name of all things good did they decide to use the 12AX7? That's like fitting budget retread tires on an open-wheel racer. I bet if one replaced the 'X7 cascode (or was it a mu or cathode follower?) with a nicer tube stage with minimal feedback the thing would sound much tighter and more acute.

 If I was allowed to go really crazy I'd strip off the analogue sections of a Pacific Microsonics Model Two and build a no-NFB DHT tube stage for it. Unfortunately I lack the $20000+ that that would require._

 

It's really a shame why companies always use the same tubes for everything. 
 I guess that's what helps make the APL so good is the output stage and guts not to be dragged down with some fancy tubes. Go with what sounds best and forget the rest. 

 The ML 30 is really interesting to me because the chassis is huge so it's easy to fit bigger caps and other mods. Even though it isn't cheap used it could be a fun project.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't Grado right up your ally then? I have only listened to a Grado cartridge once and it was in an unfamiliar rig so I can't really compare it._

 

I can't say I've head they entire Grado cartridge line (they make what? 10 different models? More?), but the ones I have have suffered from the same things that I dislike about Grado headphones, that dry and unemotive quality. I haven't heard one, but the Music Maker, which uses a Grado cartridge as a base sounds like it might have remedied that, but it's right on the upper limit of my budget and is even more expensive than a Decca Super Gold. I wish I lived in a country with a more active and communal audiophile scene so I could try out these things. The local dealers just sell things they've conviced themselves are good and aren't receptive to any individuality.

  Quote:


 It's really a shame why companies always use the same tubes for everything. 
 

It's not like they can use cost saving as an excuse. A because of supply and demand a NOS 3A5 costs less than a NOS 12AX7.

  Quote:


 The ML 30 is really interesting to me because the chassis is huge so it's easy to fit bigger caps and other mods. Even though it isn't cheap used it could be a fun project. 
 

I'm unfamiliar with that player. Have you got a pic or a link of it?


----------



## saint.panda

Quick question again: How does the HE90 compare against other electrostats in terms of PRaT and bass response and how important is the amp to bring out these two qualities in the HE90? With the SRM-Mh I feel that these two things are a bit lacking with the HE90. It's not the source for certain. My HD 650 has more bass punch (mostly upper bass, but it's more fun for music with bass content like pop and electronica) and gets my toes tapping more for some reason. Other than this, everything else is pretty grand.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't say I've head they entire Grado cartridge line (they make what? 10 different models? More?), but the ones I have have suffered from the same things that I dislike about Grado headphones, that dry and unemotive quality. I haven't heard one, but the Music Maker, which uses a Grado cartridge as a base sounds like it might have remedied that, but it's right on the upper limit of my budget and is even more expensive than a Decca Super Gold. I wish I lived in a country with a more active and communal audiophile scene so I could try out these things. The local dealers just sell things they've conviced themselves are good and aren't receptive to any individuality._

 

It's the same here. There are a few lone enthusiasts but most of the scene are just idiots. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not like they can use cost saving as an excuse. A because of supply and demand a NOS 3A5 costs less than a NOS 12AX7._

 

Paying 1000$ for a pair of ECC803 is beyond crazy. We should talk Woo into making a DHT based amp for us. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm unfamiliar with that player. Have you got a pic or a link of it?_

 

Here are some pictures on the Mark Levinson site. It's a 2 box dac that cost some 15k$ when it was first introduced in 1992. Then it was upgraded twice until it was discontinued sometime after 2001. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question again: How does the HE90 compare against other electrostats in terms of PRaT and bass response and how important is the amp to bring out these two qualities in the HE90? With the SRM-Mh I feel that these two things are a bit lacking with the HE90. It's not the source for certain. My HD 650 has more bass punch (mostly upper bass, but it's more fun for music with bass content like pop and electronica) and gets my toes tapping more for some reason. Other than this, everything else is pretty grand._

 

It's the same for me. The PRaT is ok but the Lambdas are clearly better with low level bass detail and bass timing. Very few electrostats behave in this way so a 30 year old headphone will have more bass then the He90 but it isn't "better". 

 A better amp will help but it can't change the character of the He90. They aren't bass light per se but they are missing parts of the low level signal and their roll off is very steep.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5N's cable isn't exactly something to write home about, either._

 

Curses!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe this the original flat cable so it is the same I used on my set. It managed to tame the sibilance a bit but it's still there. There is a bit more detail and clearer highs but most of all it isn't microphonic and much more user friendly. It's a clear step in the right direction._

 

Phew!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Paying 1000$ for a pair of ECC803 is beyond crazy. We should talk Woo into making a DHT based amp for us. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Wow. There must have been two people who accidentally added an extra 0 when they entered their bid. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Here are some pictures on the Mark Levinson site. It's a 2 box dac that cost some 15k$ when it was first introduced in 1992. Then it was upgraded twice until it was discontinued sometime after 2001. 
 

I looked through Mark Levinson's site but couldn't find it, so thanks.

 Even at 15k those electrolytics and opamps like to hang around.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Curses!_

 

Hey, at least it's better than that kettle powercord.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow. There must have been two people who accidentally added an extra 0 when they entered their bid. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The gold pins add so much to the SQ it was totally worth it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked through Mark Levinson's site but couldn't find it, so thanks.

 Even at 15k those electrolytics and opamps like to hang around._

 

At least they used the good stuff. There are 627 opamps in there and OSCON caps. There's plenty of room for improvement though


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aural-matters* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a serious problem with my Stax. Just now, I had some serious attenuation on the right channel - a loose connector. Unfortunately, I couldn't fix it properly by messing with the connector, so I took them apart. Had some trouble getting them back together (it took several attempts to stop the arcing) but now I'm back to square one, ableit with an invalid warranty. I could use some help on how to fix the connector without causing arcing or screwing the whole thing up...

 Any help is much appreciated.

 Thanks
 -Steve_

 

I assume you are refering to your 003. The headphone cup comes apart fairly easily to allow cleaning a drying out and as long as you remember in what order things go it should go back easily too.

 The connectors at the cups are more of a problem. They are fairly delicate but I managed to get one working, after I had discarded the unit, just by carefully plugging it back to the cord.

 What is the state of your problem? Did you get dirt or moisture in the cup?


----------



## audiod

Check out the cool pics on the unofficial Stax Japan web page!
 Go to all the different pages on the left column.

http://exp4.hp.infoseek.co.jp/

 AudioD


----------



## milkpowder

Thanks AudioD! I've got lots to read up on!

 EDIT: oh wait, I can't read Japanese. Lots of nice pictures to drool over


----------



## smeggy

Here's a hint to what AudioD found amusing... I'm replying to the thread from the links provided


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out the cool pics on the unofficial Stax Japan web page!
 Go to all the different pages on the left column.

http://exp4.hp.infoseek.co.jp/

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I wonder how that guy feels about us eating his bandwidth all the time?


----------



## milkpowder

Hahahahaha APERIO-A1 LOL!

 Yummy: DAC-X1t The guts look good. Looks like dual mono


----------



## Carl




----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder how that guy feels about us eating his bandwidth all the time?_

 

How?


----------



## milkpowder

Why is mine so darn boring and yours all colourful?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How?_

 

The unofficial Stax site seems to linked to constantly around here.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why is mine so darn boring and yours all colourful?[/IMG]_

 

Go into your browser's preferences and change the colour settings. I use yellow as a default background colour rather than white.


----------



## theBigD

does anyone believe getting the 2050 is an improvement to sr001mkii headphone? what would i gain.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theBigD* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone believe getting the 2050 is an improvement to sr001mkii headphone? what would i gain._

 

It's a hell of a lot more comfortable. They sound quite different, so it's hard to quatify how much, if any, one is better than the other. The 003 is much less amp dependant than the 202.


----------



## ast

what are you Electrostats owners think of Omega II vs HE60 ? I mean are they really complimentary to each other so it's worthwhile to own BOTH ?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what are you Electrostats owners think of Omega II vs HE60 ? I mean are they really complimentary to each other so it's worthwhile to own BOTH ?_

 

I like the HE60 better. Spritzer likes the O2 better. They're rather different beasts.

 I can think of worse things than owning both, although that's a lot of $$$$.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the HE60 better. Spritzer likes the O2 better. They're rather different beasts.

 I can think of worse things than owning both, although that's a lot of $$$$._

 

I agree. They sound very different so if you can afford it, buy both. Be warned that this logic can build up a huge mass of headphones that make people think you are nuts. You have been warned...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be warned that this logic can build up a huge mass of headphones that make people think you are nuts. You have been warned... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Translation: "I own too many electrostatic headphones".


 No wait; so do I.


----------



## Duggeh

I'm monogamous in my electrostat ownership. Stax sound better when you give them all your stat love.

 On the HE60/O2, I prefer the O2.


----------



## spritzer

I think my limit is at about 50 models. Then I'll have to build an amp that will drive all of them to perfection.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think my limit is at about 50 models. Then I'll have to build an amp that will drive all of them to perfection._

 

I'm struggling to think of 50 different models of electrostats. Well, unless you're counting electrets too in which case that'd be easy to reach.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm struggling to think of 50 different models of electrostats. Well, unless you're counting electrets too in which case that'd be easy to reach._

 

No electrets for me. The build quality is way too crappy for me to care. 

 There are about 50 models in existence so I chose the number wisely. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 There were a number of the Stax OEM phones and the many versions of Lambdas add to the total. I will only buy the OEM phones now if I get a killer deal, because they are just so horrible, and I will only buy the TOTL Lambda models. I'm not that far from my goal...


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. They sound very different so if you can afford it, buy both. Be warned that this logic can build up a huge mass of headphones that make people think you are nuts. You have been warned... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I really wish you had told me this earlier


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really wish you had told me this earlier 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't do lost causes...


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what are you Electrostats owners think of Omega II vs HE60 ? I mean are they really complimentary to each other so it's worthwhile to own BOTH ?_

 

I would really have to use both for extended periods to really say. As a HE60 user, I wasn't quite used to the O2 sound and hence didn't think much of it. However, I'm sure the same would happen if I had the O2 and listened to the HE60. Mind you, I did prefer the SR-404 to the HE60 initially, but my ears burned-in to the new sound. Stax and Senn have pretty different sound signatures so you'll have to listen to both and make your own conclusions. I would love to get a pair of O2 somewhere down the line...


----------



## patrickamory

As long as we're straying onto analog subjects, my new toy


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theBigD* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone believe getting the 2050 is an improvement to sr001mkii headphone? what would i gain._

 

Yes. Better imaging, bass, and air. Get the 2050 unless absolute portability is your criterion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as we're straying onto analog subjects, my new toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Very, very nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to get one of those when I get a Quad ESL but both will be thoroughly modernized. 50's design is great but the materials and components were crap. Is the plinth made from solid wood or is it mdf?


----------



## Duggeh

You planning on the original ESL57 Spritzer? Single or stacked?

 Stacked rebuilt black grilled ones would be the cream.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very, very nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to get one of those when I get a Quad ESL but both will be thoroughly modernized. 50's design is great but the materials and components were crap. Is the plinth made from solid wood or is it mdf?_

 

Plinth is made from a number of different woods glued together in various positions with various voids by the LignoLab/A23 folks... the armboard is a hunk of cast copper that weighs more than the plinth. 

 Turntable has been disassembled and thoroughly stripped and cleaned - bearing, idler and motor. I still need to put a new power cord on it. I don't think I'll touch the rest of the motor.

 The real new toy is the EMT 997 arm..


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what do you Electrostats owners think of Omega II vs HE60 ? I mean are they really complimentary to each other so it's worthwhile to own BOTH ?_

 


*O II: * spritzer, duggeh

*HE60:* carl, milkpowder 


 2 vs. 2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Any direct comparisons between the two?



 since I am here on the Electrostats thread, I'd like to ask another question, how do you guys compare HE90 to O II/HE60 ? I heard Neil's HE90 at San Jose meet and was quite impressed by its big sound. I have a WTB thread for HE90 here on Head-fi. But jjcha's thread about HE90 made me a little hesitated, for that kind of dough, I would expect the best without compromise, or shouldn't I?

 ...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the HE60 better. Spritzer likes the O2 better. They're rather different beasts.

 I can think of worse things than owning both, although that's a lot of $$$$._

 

I agree with this. They both sound significantly different and both have their strengths, I'd happily own both in a heartbeat with no regrets. Overall I prefer the O2 but I haven't heard either through a truly good source/amp combination.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any direct comparisons between the two?_

 

I did write a short blurb comparing the 4070, HE60 and O2 recently on this thread (Thanks for the kudos B.T.W guys). No substitute for listening yourself though.


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did write a short blurb comparing the 4070, HE60 and O2 recently on this thread (Thanks for the kudos B.T.W guys). No substitute for listening yourself though._

 

Thanks mirumu! 


 From your review, it appears to me HE60 is similar to R10 in many aspects. I will have to wait a few weeks before I can listen to my O II, which is still sealed in the box waiting for the amp. The first thing I am gonna do is to A/B with R10....


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as we're straying onto analog subjects, my new toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








_

 

A Garrard 301..? I don't know what the arm is, but it looks pretty antiquated.


 What are your plans for it?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* 
_since I am here on the Electrostats thread, I'd like to ask another question, how do you guys compare HE90 to O II/HE60 ? I heard Neil's HE90 at San Jose meet and was quite impressed by its big sound. I have a WTB thread for HE90 here on Head-fi. But jjcha's thread about HE90 made me a little hesitated, for that kind of dough, I would expect the best without compromise, or shouldn't I?_

 

The gist of it is; but the time you get up to the ranks of the HE90 and O2 things have long ago stopped being about technical competancy and entered the realm of system matching, personal taste, and how much control the amplifier has over the transducer. This is why you could ask ten different experienced headphiles what their ideal system was and get ten different answers.

 Given the amount of money involved, reading forums like head-fi will help to to understand the way things interact, and the theory behind why things work and why they don't, but it can't tell you what your personal tastes will be. Listening to gear never stopped being critical, even with the deveopment of the internet.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You planning on the original ESL57 Spritzer? Single or stacked?

 Stacked rebuilt black grilled ones would be the cream. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Both actually, but for two different systems. Black grill with white stators is simply stunning. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Plinth is made from a number of different woods glued together in various positions with various voids by the LignoLab/A23 folks... the armboard is a hunk of cast copper that weighs more than the plinth. 

 Turntable has been disassembled and thoroughly stripped and cleaned - bearing, idler and motor. I still need to put a new power cord on it. I don't think I'll touch the rest of the motor.

 The real new toy is the EMT 997 arm.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A local nut has one of these on a solid 2" plinth and it sounds excellent. He also has the arm decoupled from the plinth. 

 I really should stop talking about turntables or I will buy one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*O II: * spritzer, duggeh

*HE60:* carl, milkpowder 


 2 vs. 2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Any direct comparisons between the two?



 since I am here on the Electrostats thread, I'd like to ask another question, how do you guys compare HE90 to O II/HE60 ? I heard Neil's HE90 at San Jose meet and was quite impressed by its big sound. I have a WTB thread for HE90 here on Head-fi. But jjcha's thread about HE90 made me a little hesitated, for that kind of dough, I would expect the best without compromise, or shouldn't I?

 ..._

 

The He90/O2 issue is very dependent on what music you listen to and what you value in terms of neutrality or euphony. The He90 is very euphonic with overblown soundstage, harsh upper midrange and the bass is just strange. The O2's are neutral to a fault, power hogs of the worst kind and will sound like crap if they aren't fed enough voltage and it takes a while to unlock all of their secrets. The He90 is very audition friendly and they will impress you with their huge soundstage. With a prolonged comparison you'll see this is all smoke and mirrors because the soundstage doesn't change that much between recordings and it is so diffused that everything is overblown. In short I'd much rather listen to the SR-Lambda Signature and get 90% of the airy signature but with excellent soundstage and great PRaT and bass. 

 My set could be broken like most are from the new production run but there is nothing obvious wrong with it, other then the crappy headband but I fixed that. In fact they sound very similar to the Orpheus setup I heard a few years ago. I'm going to send mine back to Sennheiser for a tune up and continue to do so until they sound good. I'll just have to yell at the distributor a bit more until they send them for me.


----------



## cosmopragma

I've spent the last 30 minutes to install the left pad onto my Omega II - to no avail so far.
 There must be a trick.I don't want to ruin the pads by fiddling cluelessly around since I do have one of the rare black Omegas and the pads might be hard to get.


----------



## Duggeh

Getting the pads back on the O2 is not easy. I used a pallete knife to ease the edge back in, then rotated it around and it slid back into place.


----------



## Carl

Holy crap, someone actually bid on this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cuffia-elettrost...QQcmdZViewItem

 Well, unless it's the seller shilling, in which case lulz.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've spent the last 30 minutes to install the left pad onto my Omega II - to no avail so far.
 There must be a trick.I don't want to ruin the pads by fiddling cluelessly around since I do have one of the rare black Omegas and the pads might be hard to get._

 

There are two flanges inside the pad. The copper ring goes inside the inner one. Now push the copped ring into the hole in the plate and now you have to pull the outer flange over the black plate. It's a bit tricky at first but start at one point and work your way around the housing, holding the starting point in place with your fingers or maybe some tape might help.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Holy crap, someone actually bid on this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cuffia-elettrost...QQcmdZViewItem

 Well, unless it's the seller shilling, in which case lulz._

 

When I sold a pair of those I got £12. And that was overpriced.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Holy crap, someone actually bid on this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cuffia-elettrost...QQcmdZViewItem

 Well, unless it's the seller shilling, in which case lulz._

 

It warms my heart that there are still idiots out there that will pay insane amounts for crap.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are two flanges inside the pad. The copper ring goes inside the inner one. Now push the copped ring into the hole in the plate and now you have to pull the outer flange over the black plate. It's a bit tricky at first but start at one point and work your way around the housing, holding the starting point in place with your fingers or maybe some tape might help._

 

Thanks a lot.


----------



## pojen_h@hotmail.

After seeing Carl's 4070, I can't stop thinking about it. I called my dealer to get a 001 (yes... a 001) to use at my office, but something went wrong Monday morning...

 Box I received today:





 The small brother, which not seen often here:





 001 is REALLY SMALL.... (maybe I got used to full size can)





 =========

 The more interesting box..





 open up the box:





 Shining Logo:





 Open up the box:





 The can pojen keep thinking about..





 Family picture:





 =====
 The only problem with 4070 is I don't have an amp to drive it. (Justin, I want my KGSS...)

 My S/N is 1061.


----------



## Duggeh

A penknife and a soldering iron and you could put the SR-001 connector on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, assuming that serial numbers have started at 1000, then there's really not a lot of those 4070s about. The stax serial numbers are different for different countries though iirc.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 The more interesting box..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/4...d1aa86be6b.jpg

 open up the box:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/4...b6f7461946.jpg

 Shining Logo:





 Open up the box:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/195/4...d756ee6be6.jpg

 The can pojen keep thinking about..





 Family picture:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/4...73c53ed974.jpg_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Great to see more 4070 love around here, as its one of the most rare Stax phones on Head-Fi.

 Enjoy. When you get the KGSS that is...


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A penknife and a soldering iron and you could put the SR-001 connector on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 I for one am still looking for an affordable way to do it the other way around. I know I can buy a ready-made adaptor, but it would set me back almost as much as an entire SR-003. And I already checked with my local Stax dealer (who didn't really know all that much about Stax anyway), who even called the Dutch distributor for me. They didn't sell the plugs separately, and an entire cable would come dangerously close to the cost of an SR-003 as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I asked them about compatible microphone plugs, too, but they said those were obsolete, and probably very hard to get.
 I noticed Revaud had an SR-5 cable on offer on that auction site, but shipping would be rather expensive, and besides, he told me the SR-5 cable wouldn't work. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Does anyone have another suggestion, or perhaps a link to a compatible plug or cable that won't cost too much shipped? I don't want to spend a fortune on this, since it's basically an experiment...

 Ellen


----------



## milkpowder

I assume you've already asked [AK] Zip whether he could make you a low cost one? Removing the cable from the S-001 or SR-003 is a fiddly business. The connection doesn't look like it was made to be continuously messed around with...

 pojen_h@hotmail. : I'm waiting intently for your 4070 vs SR-404 comparison Looks pretty sexy to me.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assume you've already asked [AK] Zip whether he could make you a low cost one?_

 

No, but I did tell him the regular one was a bit over my budget. I assume he would have told me if he could make me a lower cost one.
  Quote:


 Removing the cable from the S-001 or SR-003 is a fiddly business. The connection doesn't look like it was made to be continuously messed around with... 
 

I know, that's why I don't want to mess with the cable itself.

 Oh well, perhaps I'll use the cable from my Lambda Signature, if it turns out to be beyond repair...

 Ellen


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 I for one am still looking for an affordable way to do it the other way around. I know I can buy a ready-made adaptor, but it would set me back almost as much as an entire SR-003. And I already checked with my local Stax dealer (who didn't really know all that much about Stax anyway), who even called the Dutch distributor for me. They didn't sell the plugs separately, and an entire cable would come dangerously close to the cost of an SR-003 as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I asked them about compatible microphone plugs, too, but they said those were obsolete, and probably very hard to get.
 I noticed Revaud had an SR-5 cable on offer on that auction site, but shipping would be rather expensive, and besides, he told me the SR-5 cable wouldn't work. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Does anyone have another suggestion, or perhaps a link to a compatible plug or cable that won't cost too much shipped? I don't want to spend a fortune on this, since it's basically an experiment...

 Ellen_

 

Here is the Stax plug. Although it is 6 pin it's easy enough to remove the middle one. Use an old computer card or something similar to source the other connector and some 24-28AWG flexible wire with a 600v rating and you are all set.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A Garrard 301..? I don't know what the arm is, but it looks pretty antiquated.

 What are your plans for it?_

 

Nah, I had the 301... the new toy is really the EMT arm (antiquated, pah!):

http://www.toneimports.com/emt/tonearm.html

 and the LignoLab / A23 plinth:

http://www.toneimports.com/auditoriu...gnoplinth.html

 I have a couple of custom EMT cartridges on the way (one mono one stereo) too...


----------



## tubaman

I got to hear the 404 with 006t (not t II) today at a local shop and was disappointed with the thin sound and preferred the much more meaty, interesting, affectionate sound of Grado SR-325 and a designed/made in Taiwan, 600 USD, integrated/headphone amp (the brand name is "Climax"). I was actually pretty surprised but I really couldn't listen to it for more than 5 min. - the music lack "meat" - Rostropovich and Berlin Philharmonic sounded distant. Maybe it was the recording..? Or just plain simple that Stax isn't for me.


----------



## pojen_h@hotmail.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A penknife and a soldering iron and you could put the SR-001 connector on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, assuming that serial numbers have started at 1000, then there's really not a lot of those 4070s about. The stax serial numbers are different for different countries though iirc._

 

I was curious about the S/N. Upon checking with Carl's post(Click me), his S/N is 1040. (SY1-xxxx) Since all cans are manufactory in Japan, it is possible that all cans use the same set of S/N. (another scary fact... only around 1.1k 4070 is around?)

 My 404 is also 11xx, the 001 is 15xx. If the S/N is indeed the number of cans manufactory/sold, then my friend.... there isn't many STAX around.


----------



## AudioCats

Are the non-pro Lambda and the non-pro SRXIII drivers any similar? or totally different (size, sound, etc)? 

 just curious.....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the non-pro Lambda and the non-pro SRXIII drivers any similar? or totally different (size, sound, etc)? 

 just curious....._

 

Totally different. Lambdas are oblong, the SRXIII's are round and smaller.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tubaman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got to hear the 404 with 006t (not t II) today at a local shop and was disappointed with the thin sound and preferred the much more meaty, interesting, affectionate sound of Grado SR-325 and a designed/made in Taiwan, 600 USD, integrated/headphone amp (the brand name is "Climax"). I was actually pretty surprised but I really couldn't listen to it for more than 5 min. - the music lack "meat" - Rostropovich and Berlin Philharmonic sounded distant. Maybe it was the recording..? Or just plain simple that Stax isn't for me._

 

Could be, or something wrong with the set-up, or you didn't listen long enough. Stats also tend to sound constricted when first turned on, because the diaphragms may need time to get fully charged. I run 404's from a 717 amp and think they are the best thing you can get, possibly until you move up to Omega's.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the non-pro Lambda and the non-pro SRXIII drivers any similar? or totally different (size, sound, etc)? 

 just curious....._

 

They are totally different in size.
 I have never listened to a SR-Lambda, so can't comment on its sound against the SR-X/MK3.

 The SR-Lambda driver are oval, like this SR-202 driver:





 While the SR-X/MK3 are round, like this SR-3N driver:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tubaman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got to hear the 404 with 006t (not t II) today at a local shop and was disappointed with the thin sound and preferred the much more meaty, interesting, affectionate sound of Grado SR-325 and a designed/made in Taiwan, 600 USD, integrated/headphone amp (the brand name is "Climax"). I was actually pretty surprised but I really couldn't listen to it for more than 5 min. - the music lack "meat" - Rostropovich and Berlin Philharmonic sounded distant. Maybe it was the recording..? Or just plain simple that Stax isn't for me._

 

It could be a warmup issue or most likely the source or cables were a bad match. There are of course those that prefer Grado's but they should be locked up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The sound is completely different, the SR-404 could even be called bass heavy, but they lack the annoying bass thump all dynamics possess. There is no texture or extension just a thump but that's why in comparison electrostatics sound thin.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After seeing Carl's 4070, I can't stop thinking about it. I called my dealer to get a 001 (yes... a 001) to use at my office, but something went wrong Monday morning...

 Box I received today:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/4...217dc9a07a.jpg

 The small brother, which not seen often here:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/219/4...e6d66d0976.jpg

 001 is REALLY SMALL.... (maybe I got used to full size can)
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/4...b1838ca55c.jpg

 =========

 The more interesting box..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/4...d1aa86be6b.jpg

 open up the box:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/4...b6f7461946.jpg

 Shining Logo:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/190/4...25fa3fe93c.jpg

 Open up the box:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/195/4...d756ee6be6.jpg

 The can pojen keep thinking about..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/219/4...eb49419520.jpg

 Family picture:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/4...73c53ed974.jpg

 =====
 The only problem with 4070 is I don't have an amp to drive it. (Justin, I want my KGSS...)

 My S/N is 1061._

 

Your pictures are very nostalgic for me.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A penknife and a soldering iron and you could put the SR-001 connector on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The S-001 wouldn't stand a chance of driving the 4070. That'd be like powering a B52 bomber with a Morris Minor engine.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nah, I had the 301... the new toy is really the EMT arm (antiquated, pah!):

http://www.toneimports.com/emt/tonearm.html_

 

Oops, careless me. I believe I just uttered some fighting words. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tubaman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got to hear the 404 with 006t (not t II) today at a local shop and was disappointed with the thin sound and preferred the much more meaty, interesting, affectionate sound of Grado SR-325 and a designed/made in Taiwan, 600 USD, integrated/headphone amp (the brand name is "Climax"). I was actually pretty surprised but I really couldn't listen to it for more than 5 min. - the music lack "meat" - Rostropovich and Berlin Philharmonic sounded distant. Maybe it was the recording..? Or just plain simple that Stax isn't for me._

 

The 006t is hardly the world's best amp, and it seems to have quite poor synergy with the 404 for whatever reason. 

 Also the 404 is about as far removed from a 325 as you can possibly get. If your ears are trained on the Grados then most things will sound muddy and distant because the 325 is sharp and compressed. It's no big deal, though, everyone's tastes are different.


----------



## krmathis

Don't think these anime drawings have made their way into the Stax thread so far.
 I think they look great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














 Source: http://www2.117.ne.jp/~ota-beam/otb-hp.htm


----------



## milkpowder

That's hot. I don't think I'll ever manage to find a fit girlfriend like that who likes Stax
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This would be more plausible:


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops, careless me. I believe I just uttered some fighting words. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's all good


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are totally different in size.
 I have never listened to a SR-Lambda, so can't comment on its sound against the SR-X/MK3.

 The SR-Lambda driver are oval, like this SR-202 driver:


 While the SR-X/MK3 are round, like this SR-3N driver:_

 

What beautiful hands you have.


----------



## AudioCats

thanks for the driver pictures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I see the difference...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What beautiful hands you have. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thanks! I know who's hand that is, and its not mine...


----------



## gordie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_=====
 The only problem with 4070 is I don't have an amp to drive it. (Justin, I want my KGSS...)

 My S/N is 1061._

 

Congrats on the 4070s. Glad to hear someone else got a pair!

 I have 4070s with a 313. I've been meaning to get a bigger amp for my 4070s, but got sidetracked with my KG K1000s and a Red Wine amp (which is a very very nice match, but I digress).

 The 4070s still sound excellent with my 313 - I EQ them very slightly when listening to rock/techno/etc.:

 +2 dB at 65 hz
 +1.5 dB at 125
 -1.5 dB at 4khz
 -1.5 dB at 8 khz

 For classical, no EQ needed.

 Even though the 313 amp isn't all that, it gets the job done, and I love how the headphones sound through it. Although I'm getting more impact out of the AKG K1000s (which I also rate A+), the 4070s are my favorite setup even with the 313. 

 -- Gordie


----------



## phi771

last week i saw a lambda pro with a small 7pin lemo plug. does anybody know what it´s good for? i don´t know any amp with such a connector.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *phi771* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_last week i saw a lambda pro with a small 7pin lemo plug. does anybody know what it´s good for? i don´t know any amp with such a connector._

 

They were modified by a company called HEAD acoustics. They make headphone processors and amps for testing and analysis. They used the Lambda Pro then the HE60 and now they use the SR-303 but have moved on to the Stax plug. You can read about it on their site.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Spritzer

 My SR-5 (flat, ribbon) cable has arrived from Revaud (in 4 days from Canada to the UK!), which I'd like to use on my SR-Xs. Much to my surprise, the ear-speaker terminations include a chunky, square-section moulded piece, about 6cm from the pre-soldered cable ends (looking more like something for a Lambda Normal bias, but I assume Revaud was correct when he listed it as for an SR-5 -- which actually must've been for the SR-5 Gold).

 My question is: to get the flat cable to fit into the SR-X, do I lop off the moulded piece, and re-terminate the leads, or did you find another way of getting the cable to fit into your SR-Xs (assuming you, too, had this square-section moulded piece to deal with)?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer

 My SR-5 (flat, ribbon) cable has arrived from Revaud (in 4 days from Canada to the UK!), which I'd like to use on my SR-Xs. Much to my surprise, the ear-speaker terminations include a chunky, square-section moulded piece, about 6cm from the pre-soldered cable ends (looking more like something for a Lambda Normal bias, but I assume Revaud was correct when he listed it as for an SR-5 -- which actually must've been for the SR-5 Gold).

 My question is: to get the flat cable to fit into the SR-X, do I lop off the moulded piece, and re-terminate the leads, or did you find another way of getting the cable to fit into your SR-Xs (assuming you, too, had this square-section moulded piece to deal with)?_

 

Mine had the Lambda mold that is bigger. I trimmed the part above the strain relief with a very sharp knife so it would fit through the hole and the strain relief would stop the cable from pushing into the housing. On the other side I used two zip ties one on top of the other. You could use the old metal part Stax used but I threw it out. The cable can rotate a bit but that could be fixed with a few drops of super glue. 

 These cables were for the latest SR-5N or NB models.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine had the Lambda mold that is bigger. I trimmed the part above the strain relief with a very sharp knife so it would fit through the hole and the strain relief would stop the cable from pushing into the housing. On the other side I used two zip ties one on top of the other. You could use the old metal part Stax used but I threw it out. The cable can rotate a bit but that could be fixed with a few drops of super glue. 

 These cables were for the latest SR-5N or NB models._

 

Coo, precision surgery! I wish I could trust my knife-wielding hand to not slice through the cable itself (mind you, if I can solder two 6mm OFC cables into a DIN plug, even though it did take me 2 hours... ).

 Thanks, Spritzer, I'm glad I asked and didn't just lop off the moulded section. I'll give what you did a go...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coo, precision surgery! I wish I could trust my knife-wielding hand to not slice through the cable itself (mind you, if I can solder two 6mm OFC cables into a DIN plug, even though it did take me 2 hours... ).

 Thanks, Spritzer, I'm glad I asked and didn't just lop off the moulded section. I'll give what you did a go..._

 

Just take your time and you'll be fine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just took a picture for you to explain a bit further


----------



## lastfreename

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *phi771* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_last week i saw a lambda pro with a small 7pin lemo plug. does anybody know what it´s good for? i don´t know any amp with such a connector._

 

Are you sure it´s not a 6pin plug?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just take your time and you'll be fine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just took a picture for you to explain a bit further_

 

Thanks, Spritzer. I can't quite make it out from your picture, but I assume you have left on the LOWER flange of the moulded piece (it's about 15mm x 10mm in size on mine) to stop the cable going in the SR-X earpiece? (Sorry to be such a PITA, but I can't see it in your photo... )


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Spritzer. I can't quite make it out from your picture, but I assume you have left on the LOWER flange of the moulded piece (it's about 15mm x 10mm in size on mine) to stop the cable going in the SR-X earpiece? (Sorry to be such a PITA, but I can't see it in your photo... )_

 

I used the top of the strain relief to stop the cable from pushing into the housing. I cut off every thing above it until it was small enough to fit through the hole. 

 Ask away, I'm always happy to help.


----------



## mirumu

Over the last two days I've had my first chance to listen to the SR-404s I picked up a while back (The pair Carl infamously used to compare with the Airbows). They're very interesting stats and even in this short time I think I can understand a little of the love/hate relationship some have with them. I certainly wouldn't consider even for a moment giving up my Omega IIs for them (or 4070s if I owned a pair) but depending on the song they can sound really great. I just wish they could manage the same with a wider variety of music. And that midrange is....odd.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Over the last two days I've had my first chance to listen to the SR-404s I picked up a while back (The pair Carl infamously used to compare with the Airbows). They're very interesting stats and even in this short time I think I can understand a little of the love/hate relationship some have with them. I certainly wouldn't consider even for a moment giving up my Omega IIs for them (or 4070s if I owned a pair) but depending on the song they can sound really great. I just wish they could manage the same with a wider variety of music. And that midrange is....odd._

 

I really like the 4070s and Sigmas, so it's not the drivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really like the 4070s and Sigmas, so it's not the drivers._

 

It's the housing that is at fault the same as with the Sigmas. It resonates with the film and clouds up the sound. A simple replacement housing made from tough aluminum would transform them if it is thin enough not to cause a tunnel effect. It could also be machined out of wood but that has its own sound and goes against my neutrality goal. One of my friends is going to make a prototype for me when he has some time/can be bothered but I'm not holding my breath. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In other news I'm certain I can convert a normal SR-X Mk3 to a Pro phone. I need to have some very small parts specially made for me but I will never have the time for this until next fall.


----------



## cosmopragma

Seems that SR007 MK.II (Omega III) is in the pipe.
 Stax Germany is spreading rumours about it.
 Nothing substantial so far though.
 They are planning to display a prototype at the coming High End fair in Munich.
 Don't ask me about more details.There's still nothing except that they exist.
 No official release date, no specs, no pics so far.

 Oh well, I've just purchased an Omega II ........


----------



## Duggeh

I'd say "aw but I just got O2" except I've had it more than a year, its not going to suddenly turn into a bad headphone in any case. Maybe Stax is scared by the TakeT H2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems that SR007 MK.II (Omega III) is in the pipe.
 Stax Germany is spreading rumours about it.
 Nothing substantial so far though.
 They are planning to display a prototype at the coming High End fair in Munich.
 Don't ask me about more details.There's still nothing except that they exist.
 No official release date, no specs, no pics so far.

 Oh well, I've just purchased an Omega II ........_

 

That means I'll have to buy a second SR-007 as backup.


----------



## jigster

Hoping someone can help me. Well, I've got a SRM-T1W. Its got one of those voltage switches on the back for 100V, 117V, 220V & 240V but the label on the back states 100V. Opened up for a look and there's only a single fuse. So, I guess the fuse is rated for 100V usage?










 My question is : can I switch the fuse to one that's compatible for use in a 240V environment? Does it work like that?

 Sorry, I've asked this before but without opening up the thing. No one's been able to tell me if I could change it for use by changing the fuse. Totally ignorant about this.... still.

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hoping someone can help me. Well, I've got a SRM-T1W. Its got one of those voltage switches on the back for 100V, 117V, 220V & 240V but the label on the back states 100V. Opened up for a look and there's only a single fuse. So, I guess the fuse is rated for 100V usage?










 My question is : can I switch the fuse to one that's compatible for use in a 240V environment? Does it work like that?

 Sorry, I've asked this before but without opening up the thing. No one's been able to tell me if I could change it for use by changing the fuse. Totally ignorant about this.... still.

 Thanks!_

 

All fuses are rated for 250v so thats nothing to worry about. If the leads on the inside of the voltage selector are connected to the transformer then you can use it to change the input voltage. The switch could have been bypassed but if it is connected it will work.


----------



## derekbmn

What kind of improvements would everybody like to see on the next STAX flagship ?? Spritzer , I would really like to know your thoughts on this. 
 An improvement I would like to see is making it a bit easier to drive.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All fuses are rated for 250v so thats nothing to worry about. If the leads on the inside of the voltage selector are connected to the transformer then you can use it to change the input voltage. The switch could have been bypassed but if it is connected it will work._

 

Thank god for you, spritzer. But how do I tell if its been bypassed? By tracing it to the transformer? Have no idea about electronics.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I was just wondering, in terms of 'difficulty to drive', how does the SR-Omega fare? I know the Omega II is a beast to drive.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Over the last two days I've had my first chance to listen to the SR-404s I picked up a while back (The pair Carl infamously used to compare with the Airbows). They're very interesting stats and even in this short time I think I can understand a little of the love/hate relationship some have with them. I certainly wouldn't consider even for a moment giving up my Omega IIs for them (or 4070s if I owned a pair) but depending on the song they can sound really great. I just wish they could manage the same with a wider variety of music. And that midrange is....odd._

 

I feel that, probably because of it's high frequency peak, it tends to register high frequency hash in the source more than phones with more of a trebleroll-off. However, when properly set-up and with the right source material it really sings. 

 I found that using Silclear contact enhancer

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud...s/silclear.php

 significantly changed the sound from the 404 to the point where I began to prefer it above my previous favorite, a Sigma modified to the 404 standard.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715

 Silclear on the power cord contact gives some boost to the amplifier (Stax 717) and more dynamics to the phones. However using it on interconnects improves bass and gets rid of some of the harshness that these phones can give with some material and makes them more usable with more soure material.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...

 In other news I'm certain I can convert a normal SR-X Mk3 to a Pro phone. I need to have some very small parts specially made for me but I will never have the time for this until next fall._

 

Now let me know when you've found a way I can convert one of my SRD-7's (mains bias) Normal outputs to a Pro one, and you will be an even bigger star in my universe!


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of improvements would everybody like to see on the next STAX flagship ?? Spritzer , I would really like to know your thoughts on this. 
 An improvement I would like to see is making it a bit easier to drive._

 

Id like to see an improvment in ease of fit. It takes a long time to get the pads and headband just right on the O2. Totally unlike the plug and play of the Lambda. But then many headphones are fussy about fit I suppose.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of improvements would everybody like to see on the next STAX flagship ?? Spritzer , I would really like to know your thoughts on this. 
 An improvement I would like to see is making it a bit easier to drive._

 

I'd like to see an even stiffer earcup (titanium?), a better cable and gold plated silver stators. They would have to revert back to the metallic stators to make them easier to drive. The stators are gold plated PCB and the thickness of the stator adds to the diaphragm/stator gap. If they would put in smaller stators the film could hit the stator and though it is insulated to many kV it will cause some major problem. I'm not to worried that they are hard to drive, the Blue Hawaii makes them beg for mercy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank god for you, spritzer. But how do I tell if its been bypassed? By tracing it to the transformer? Have no idea about electronics._

 

The wires should lead to the one side of the transformer like you can see here on the left:




 You are basically connecting different parts of the transformers primary in different ways. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just wondering, in terms of 'difficulty to drive', how does the SR-Omega fare? I know the Omega II is a beast to drive._

 

They are supposed to be much less of a beast. It's the PCB stators that make the SR-007 so hard to drive. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now let me know when you've found a way I can convert one of my SRD-7's (mains bias) Normal outputs to a Pro one, and you will be an even bigger star in my universe!_

 

That one is easy. An easy way would be two 140v zeners in opposite directions on the AC and then a voltage quaddrapler with a 5meg resistor at the end. I'll see if I can't find the Stax schematic somewhere. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Id like to see an improvment in ease of fit. It takes a long time to get the pads and headband just right on the O2. Totally unlike the plug and play of the Lambda. But then many headphones are fussy about fit I suppose._

 

The arc assembly is one of a kind and I do believe they will continue to use it. It might be on a swivel mount like the 4070 though. I think that the SR-007 was meant to be fitted to the user by a dealer but that was probably long forgotten when they were released. The rotating pads are a great idea and I would be sad to see it go. It took me about 2 minutes to find the right fit and I have used that ever since.


----------



## ericj

Titanium is strong but springy. I wouldn't call it stiff per se. There's a lot of range in hardness among aluminum alloys. of course, I don't know what acoustic or ergonomic effect you're really going for.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Titanium is strong but springy. I wouldn't call it stiff per se. There's a lot of range in hardness among aluminum alloys. of course, I don't know what acoustic or ergonomic effect you're really going for._

 

I'd like the housing to be as stiff as possible, think Sound Lab U-1 in headphone form. A higher grade of aluminum will also work. Making a prototype out of lead or gold would be very cool. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Damn EU nanny state, if I want to nuts because of my lead filled headphones, that is my choice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It would be even better if there were less plastic around the driver or they would change the nylon to fiber glass or something very stiff. 

 It is the ultimate goal with electrostatic speakers and headphones that the only thing moving is the mylar. Headphones have an even better chance of making it happen by anchoring the headphone securely to the head like Stax did with the SR-007. Try holding an O2, playing at normal volume and feel them vibrate like crazy.


----------



## ericj

Yeah, a stiffer aluminum alloy would work, as would some magnesium alloys. I've also seen mil-spec composites that would do it. 

 How about a high-tech ceramic?


----------



## milkpowder

Or even... carbon fibre!


----------



## Duggeh

Stax, for the SR-008.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, a stiffer aluminum alloy would work, as would some magnesium alloys. I've also seen mil-spec composites that would do it. 

 How about a high-tech ceramic?_

 

That could work but it isn't cheap so it would never be feasible in a production item. A higher grade aluminum isn't that much expensive then the cheap stuff. 

 I've also sketched up a 3 piece housing with two parts aluminum and one part maple with a driver pressed between them. Could be an interesting design but again very expensive. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or even... carbon fibre!_

 

I've been looking into that and it isn't easy because it has to be so thick and machined to very tight tolerances. Very cool though.


----------



## milkpowder

How thick is the carbon fibre on the 010? I'm sure thickness is not as much a problem as manufacturing to a high standard while keeping the costs realistic. I'm guessing a lot of expensive equipment is required to manufacture carbon fibre. Think supercars: They're all made from carbon fibre and cost an unreal amount of money.

 I know carbon fibre is one of the stiffest man made materials, but is it prone to resonance?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How thick is the carbon fibre on the 010? I'm sure thickness is not as much a problem as manufacturing to a high standard while keeping the costs realistic. I'm guessing a lot of expensive equipment is required to manufacture carbon fibre. Think supercars: They're all made from carbon fibre and cost an unreal amount of money.

 I know carbon fibre is one of the stiffest man made materials, but is it prone to resonance?_

 

CF is always uses for the same things as sheet metal would be used for. I need it to be more then 2cm thick and that isn't an option really. Carbon fiber isn't all that expensive and isn't the reason why super cars are so expensive. Extreme engineering is always expensive, be it cars, watches, boats or audio.


----------



## ericj

The expense of your carbon fiber part depends a lot on whether you're stretching fabric over a form or having the fibers custom wound. 

 I know a guy who winds carbon fibers between programming jobs. family business. 

 But yes, until it gets thick, carbon fiber is bouncy and resonant. When it does get thick, the weight of the resin holding it together starts to add up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The expense of your carbon fiber part depends a lot on whether you're stretching fabric over a form or having the fibers custom wound. 

 I know a guy who winds carbon fibers between programming jobs. family business. 

 But yes, until it gets thick, carbon fiber is bouncy and resonant. When it does get thick, the weight of the resin holding it together starts to add up._

 

I dropped the CF idea in favor of a special aluminum blend. I know the manager of two two huge aluminum plants so I can get it cheap or even free. Now all I need is a CNC machine and a laser cutting rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's much too expensive to have this outsourced.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...

 That one is easy. An easy way would be two 140v zeners in opposite directions on the AC and then a voltage quaddrapler with a 5meg resistor at the end. I'll see if I can't find the Stax schematic somewhere._

 

But has it ever been done? Anybody?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But has it ever been done? Anybody?_

 

I have built the original Beyer Dynamic bias supply although that uses lower voltage zeners and only two multiplying stages the concept is the same.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dropped the CF idea in favor of a special aluminum blend. I know the manager of two two huge aluminum plants so I can get it cheap or even free. Now all I need is a CNC machine and a laser cutting rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's much too expensive to have this outsourced._

 

The main body resonance’s can easily be damped. Dissimilar metals (even cheap) sandwiched together can be extremely effective. CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) is also effective. I think that stator resonance’s are a much bigger problem. One problem that is hard to solve is how do you make the phones rigid to your head. Ear pads decouple the driver to the head. One of the reasons Koss put fluid in the ear pads of their early stat phones was to couple the phones to your head. The Koss phones probably made the tightest and rigid fit to your head of any phone I can remember (at the cost of comfort). We all put spikes on our loudspeakers, maybe a ear pad with a built in 3 point rigid resting system that would hold the phones rigid without pain. Like a 3 point landing pod inside the foam structure.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The main body resonance’s can easily be damped. Dissimilar metals (even cheap) sandwiched together can be extremely effective. CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) is also effective. I think that stator resonance’s are a much bigger problem. One problem that is hard to solve is how do you make the phones rigid to your head. Ear pads decouple the driver to the head. One of the reasons Koss put fluid in the ear pads of their early stat phones was to couple the phones to your head. The Koss phones probably made the tightest and rigid fit to your head of any phone I can remember (at the cost of comfort). We all put spikes on our loudspeakers, maybe a ear pad with a built in 3 point rigid resting system that would hold the phones rigid without pain. Like a 3 point landing pod inside the foam structure._

 

IMO damping is a very bad way of doing things. The housing should be very rigid so it will vibrate with the film while the earpad provides all the damping. By coupling the headphones firmly to the head and use some stiff foam you can anchor the phones to the head just like the SR-007 does. It has some other problems, most notably fitting the headphone to the user is necessary and when the earpads start to break down the sound goes to hell. Koss was always compensating for a lack of bass by making the headphones torture devices while a Stax headphone from the same era is much more comfortable and better sounding. 

 With speakers you have to do it the other way around by damping the speakers with mass and making it very stiff at the same time. The Sound Lab U-1 is about 100kg each speaker and can be much more then that filled with lead shot.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO damping is a very bad way of doing things. The housing should be very rigid so it will vibrate with the film while the earpad provides all the damping. By coupling the headphones firmly to the head and use some stiff foam you can anchor the phones to the head just like the SR-007 does. It has some other problems, most notably fitting the headphone to the user is necessary and when the earpads start to break down the sound goes to hell. Koss was always compensating for a lack of bass by making the headphones torture devices while a Stax headphone from the same era is much more comfortable and better sounding. 

 With speakers you have to do it the other way around by damping the speakers with mass and making it very stiff at the same time. The Sound Lab U-1 is about 100kg each speaker and can be much more then that filled with lead shot._

 

I'm talking about rigidity, but we also want to keep them light in weight. Look what Celestion did using Aerolam. Ultra rigid and light! A form a CLD. I still think that of all the design problems that Stax has in upgrading the Omega II the main structure resonance’s is down the list. Stax spent a lot of design time on the Omega II’s main body for that reason. I would think that the main driver design would be top of the list. Most stat designers will tell you keeping the stators rigid but open is a real balancing act.

 IMO the Koss ESP-6/9 had the deepest bass of any stat phone of its day (by far).
 They had a higher bias voltage than Stax and a much larger diaphragm area.
 I preferred the SR-3/5 & XmkIII overall but the ESP-9 had much deeper bass. In the late 60’s and 70’s companies (like Ford & GM) used the Koss ESP phones for low frequency vibration analysis. When an engineer from Ford purchased a set of SR-X mkIII, from my High End store in the late 70’s, to test them against the Koss’s, he returned them because of their bass roll-off.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm talking about rigidity, but we also want to keep them light in weight. Look what Celestion did using Aerolam. Ultra rigid and light! A form a CLD. I still think that of all the design problems that Stax has in upgrading the Omega II the main structure resonance’s is down the list. Stax spent a lot of design time on the Omega II’s main body for that reason. I would think that the main driver design would be top of the list. Most stat designers will tell you keeping the stators rigid but open is a real balancing act._

 

There isn't much at all they can do to the stators at this point. Perhaps a stronger, stiffer PCB material and a bit of work on how the openings are distributed but that's about it. Speakers are of course a another matter but Quad did get it right back in '55 with the ELS. 

 Optimizing the drivers is at the end of my "how to tweak a design" list because it doesn't matter how good they are if the housing mucks up everything. The Lambdas are a good showcase of how this works. The drivers are very good but the housing is cheap and flimsy. I've had very good results from the SR-# drivers when I put them in a better earcups and the modded Suprex PEP-74 is probably the best rock headphone ever made. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO the Koss ESP-6/9 had the deepest bass of any stat phone of its day (by far).
 They had a higher bias voltage than Stax and a much larger diaphragm area.
 I preferred the SR-3/5 & XmkIII overall but the ESP-9 had much deeper bass. In the late 60’s and 70’s companies (like Ford & GM) used the Koss ESP phones for low frequency vibration analysis. When an engineer from Ford purchased a set of SR-X mkIII, from my High End store in the late 70’s, to test them against the Koss’s, he returned them because of their bass roll-off._

 

It's deep but not very controlled and it is bloated and edgy like the rest of the sound spectrum. The bass blot is nearly all because of the idiotic drive circuit Koss used. They are much better when driven from a Stax amp, the bass is controlled and precise with glorious midrange and slight treble rolloff. 

 The SR-X does suffer from rolloff on both extremes and thats why the Lambda was designed.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Optimizing the drivers is at the end of my "how to tweak a design" list because it doesn't matter how good they are if the housing mucks up everything. _

 

I don't think that the Omega II's housing is that mucked up. I've taken mine apart and the housing parts seem quite rigid (I dont like the metal screen), but the stators have quite a drum resonance.

 How did you wire the ESP to a Stax amp? I would like to try.
 Thanks... AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think that the Omega II's housing is that mucked up. I've taken mine apart and the housing parts seem quite rigid (I dont like the metal screen), but the stators have quite a drum resonance.

 How did you wire the ESP to a Stax amp? I would like to try.
 Thanks... AudioD_

 

The SR-007 housing is the best there is but this whole discussion started when I was speculating how it could be better. The drum resonance is the film, not the stators, the stators are very rigid but there is always better out there. 

 To rewire the ESP6 or 9 you'll have to remove the internal circuit boards and connect the cable to the drivers directly. With the ESP9 you can fit the boards inside the /E.9 adapter and connect from them to the plug. You'll have to use a 6 pin plug but the phones will be normal Stax compatible and also as Koss designed them. Best of both worlds.


----------



## mingde10467

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Id like to see an improvment in ease of fit. It takes a long time to get the pads and headband just right on the O2. Totally unlike the plug and play of the Lambda. But then many headphones are fussy about fit I suppose._

 

I'd agree with that. Also, I wish the space within the earpads was larger, but maybe my ears are just too big.

 Another thing (often mentioned by others) is the uncomfortable material they use for the Omega 2 pads. It would be great if Stax re-designed the pads and made them retro-fittable to the O2s.

 As far as sonics, I wish the O2s wouldn't render so many discs semi-listenable, but I guess that's asking them to be a less truthful transducer. Sigh. . .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd agree with that. Also, I wish the space within the earpads was larger, but maybe my ears are just too big.

 Another thing (often mentioned by others) is the uncomfortable material they use for the Omega 2 pads. It would be great if Stax re-designed the pads and made them retro-fittable to the O2s.

 As far as sonics, I wish the O2s wouldn't render so many discs semi-listenable, but I guess that's asking them to be a less truthful transducer. Sigh. . ._

 

I wish they would switch back to the softer leather on the SR-Omega pads and keep the design but with a slightly larger opening. That would be perfect.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 To rewire the ESP6 or 9 you'll have to remove the internal circuit boards and connect the cable to the drivers directly. With the ESP9 you can fit the boards inside the /E.9 adapter and connect from them to the plug. You'll have to use a 6 pin plug but the phones will be normal Stax compatible and also as Koss designed them. Best of both worlds._

 

Let me make sure I have this correct. Withe the ESP9, hook the cable directly to the drivers and you can run them from a low bias Stax amp?

 Anything I should know before I try this at home?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO the Koss ESP-6/9 had the deepest bass of any stat phone of its day (by far).
 They had a higher bias voltage than Stax and a much larger diaphragm area.
 I preferred the SR-3/5 & XmkIII overall but the ESP-9 had much deeper bass. In the late 60’s and 70’s companies (like Ford & GM) used the Koss ESP phones for low frequency vibration analysis. When an engineer from Ford purchased a set of SR-X mkIII, from my High End store in the late 70’s, to test them against the Koss’s, he returned them because of their bass roll-off._

 


 I tend to agree. I recall selling my first SRX3 and keeping the ESP9's. Now with my later SRX3 run off the SRA12S amp, I like the SRX3 better but the lack of deep bass remains frustrating. They are very well defined for what part of the frequency spectrum they cover. Their definition and dynamics over the midrange are possibly the best I have heard. It's just that I sense an incomplete audio spectrum.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The main body resonance’s can easily be damped. Dissimilar metals (even cheap) sandwiched together can be extremely effective. CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) is also effective. I think that stator resonance’s are a much bigger problem. One problem that is hard to solve is how do you make the phones rigid to your head. Ear pads decouple the driver to the head. One of the reasons Koss put fluid in the ear pads of their early stat phones was to couple the phones to your head. The Koss phones probably made the tightest and rigid fit to your head of any phone I can remember (at the cost of comfort). We all put spikes on our loudspeakers, maybe a ear pad with a built in 3 point rigid resting system that would hold the phones rigid without pain. Like a 3 point landing pod inside the foam structure._

 


 An interesting point. But is rigidly coupling headphones to the head the same as say putting spikes on speakers to couple them to the floor? If you couple them to the skull, I would think you raise the issue of bone conducted hearing, which is low fi and monaural in nature. Wouldn't you in effect be driving the eardrum against the signal coming from air conduction?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An interesting point. But is rigidly coupling headphones to the head the same as say putting spikes on speakers to couple them to the floor? If you couple them to the skull, I would think you raise the issue of bone conducted hearing, which is low fi and monaural in nature. Wouldn't you in effect be driving the eardrum against the signal coming from air conduction?_

 

That's a good point (remember the Bonephone?). Maybe the best way to keep the body structure from moving is higher mass (more weight on your head) and a good ear pad damping system. You want the membrane to move and the structure to be still. Back in the 80's I've heard of people putting lead weights inside of the driver board of the Lambdas to improve bass.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me make sure I have this correct. Withe the ESP9, hook the cable directly to the drivers and you can run them from a low bias Stax amp?

 Anything I should know before I try this at home?_

 

That's basically it. I replaced the cable for testing and used a 6 core cable so that the bias wasn't shared but it's ok to use only one wire for the bias and connect the drivers together. The stator next to the ear is + and the other one is -. You can drive them from the normal output with no harm and I did also try a 350v bias supply I was testing. They ran fine with that as well. 

 When I get a cable that isn't microphonic I'll convert them permanently by installing the earcup boards inside the /E.9. Then I can try the Stax phones on this crazy Koss circuitry.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a good point (remember the Bonephone?). Maybe the best way to keep the body structure from moving is higher mass (more weight on your head) and a good ear pad damping system. You want the membrane to move and the structure to be still. Back in the 80's I've heard of people putting lead weights inside of the driver board of the Lambdas to improve bass._

 

Exactly where in the cup did they put the lead?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly where in the cup did they put the lead?_

 

They must have mounted it to the aluminum plate in the upper two corners. That's the only extra space inside the cup where there are no sound reflection issues. They could also be put in the lower corners but then you'd have to tweak the wiring.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly where in the cup did they put the lead?_

 

This was a customer of mine. He wanted to compare them with stock Lambda's. They were a lot heavier and indeed have more and deeper bass. I think that he put the weight around the driver, but he never showed me. He also put mortite (back when that was popular) on the inside for damping.


----------



## Duggeh

What is it about the Koss circuitry that's "crazy" exactly?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is it about the Koss circuitry that's "crazy" exactly?_

 

They didn't drive them in full push-pull operation. The back stators are grounded and so they aren't single ended but not push-pull. Running electrostatics single ended causes distortion to skyrocket but it's hard to make a closed back dipole so they came up with this compromise. It's crazy and it works but they sound better without all of the circuitry needed to pull it off and simply driven push-pull. Koss did abandon this along with the closed back design when the ESP10 was released. 

 Koss had loads of crazy ideas back in the day and one of the nuttiest was even adopted by Sony for the very expensive and rare R10 electrostatic speaker. When Koss built the A1 speaker they stacked two diaphragms with three stators to produce more panel area in a smaller enclosure and thus more bass and SPL. It's a pretty good idea but it opens the door to some crazy behavior in the driver and will never sound better then a properly mounted single diaphragm driver. Another good one used in the ESP6 was to mount the dustcover on the inside of the stator rather then outside and thus turning it into an insulator almost making them impossible to arc. Pretty clever...


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 As far as sonics, I wish the O2s wouldn't render so many discs semi-listenable, but I guess that's asking them to be a less truthful transducer. Sigh. . ._

 

Maybe I'm tone deaf, but to my ears it's a strong point of the Omega II that it's relatively forgiving at least compared to other high-rez headphones.


----------



## Duggeh

I agree, only the Float Electrostatic makes filthy vinyl sound as good.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe I'm tone deaf, but to my ears it's a strong point of the Omega II that it's relatively forgiving at least compared to other high-rez headphones._

 

I agree!!! I think the least forgiving Stax phone is the SR-XmkIII then the SR-404.


----------



## Carl

My turntable finally showed up. The platter ways the proverbial tonne, which is awesome. I really need to get that SRA-7S fixed now, so I have an actual phono stage allowing me to actually listen to it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My turntable finally showed up. The platter ways the proverbial tonne, which is awesome. I really need to get that SRA-7S fixed now, so I have an actual phono stage allowing me to actually listen to it._

 

Congrats man!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is the 7S broken or does it just need new caps and resistors? 

 All this vinyl talk is really starting to affect me. I'm thinking about getting an old idler (Garrard, Thorens or Lenco) and building a massive plinth for it. Add a great arm and pickup and I'm in business on the (relatively) cheap.


----------



## _LN_

I just got a shipping quote from Allied Electronics, for the Stax compatible connectors... The connectors themselves cost less than $3 each, but shipping would be $35 ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So, that's not an option for making an adapter for the SR-001... Anyone have any other suggestions?

 Ellen


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a shipping quote from Allied Electronics, for the Stax compatible connectors... The connectors themselves cost less than $3 each, but shipping would be $35 ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So, that's not an option for making an adapter for the SR-001... Anyone have any other suggestions?

 Ellen_

 

You should be able to source them closer to home. They are 6 pin microphone plugs, sometimes called a Tuchel connector. They still used so electronics or musician shops should carry them.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking about getting an old idler (Garrard, Thorens or Lenco) and building a massive plinth for it._

 

That is the way to go..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but mass is not the only solution to controlling the vibrations and the rumble. You want to control the resonance, not kill the dynamics.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should be able to source them closer to home. They are 6 pin microphone plugs, sometimes called a Tuchel connector. They still used so electronics or musician shops should carry them._

 

Very helpful info from you again, as usual -- thanks!


----------



## krmathis

This seems to be the upcoming Stax SR-007 mk2!
 The picture have apparently been taken at HIGH END 2007 in Munich, Germany.






 The champagne colored chassis have been changed to a (brushed?) aluminum one. Thats the only difference I see compared to the current one...

 Remains to be seen if this is the final version though, and if there are some "minor" internal changes as well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is the way to go..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but mass is not the only solution to controlling the vibrations and the rumble. You want to control the resonance, not kill the dynamics._

 

Yeah I know, by massive I meant more huge then heavy. I'll probably end up using the same birch composite we use to make the worktables at my bakery. It's extremely stiff, non resonant and not to heavy but pretty expensive. It should look stunning when properly varnished. The only problem is that these tables are so good I'll go nuts with regards to tonearm and pickup.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This seems to be the upcoming Stax SR-007 mk2!
 The picture have accordingly been taken at HIGH END 2007 in Munich, Germany.






 The champagne colored chassis have been changed to a (brushed?) aluminum one. Thats the only difference I see compared to the current one...

 Remains to be seen if this is the final version though, and if there are some "minor" internal changes as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I hope that there are some internal changes. I knew that Stax had to change the finish on the housing because something in the process is in violation of the ROHS standard and that is also why the new amps looks different form the older models. Looks like I'll be getting a new SR-007...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope that there are some internal changes._

 

So do I. More silver maybe?

 Being Stax' first headphone update since 2003 (the SR-202 introduction), they better come up with some internal changes as well. Not just minor cosmetic ones.
  Quote:


 Looks like I'll be getting a new SR-007... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Then there are two of us!


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah I know, by massive I meant more huge then heavy. I'll probably end up using the same birch composite we use to make the worktables at my bakery. It's extremely stiff, non resonant and not to heavy but pretty expensive. It should look stunning when properly varnished. The only problem is that these tables are so good I'll go nuts with regards to tonearm and pickup. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sounds superneat. You *should* go crazy with tonearm and pickup... the Garrard will more than live up to the supporting cast.

 Hey spritzer, did you build your own Blue Hawaii? How tough a project did you find it? Isn't one of the transistors no longer manufactured? (There is a SS section I believe.) Kevin's headwize page on the project doesn't seem very complete.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a shipping quote from Allied Electronics, for the Stax compatible connectors... The connectors themselves cost less than $3 each, but shipping would be $35 ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So, that's not an option for making an adapter for the SR-001... Anyone have any other suggestions?

 Ellen_

 

Got an allied item number for that? I can't find a cheap connector that looks right.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So do I. More silver maybe?

 Being Stax' first headphone update since 2003 (the SR-202 introduction), they better come up with some internal changes as well. Not just minor cosmetic ones.
 Then there are two of us!_

 

Make it three !!!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's basically it. I replaced the cable for testing and used a 6 core cable so that the bias wasn't shared but it's ok to use only one wire for the bias and connect the drivers together. The stator next to the ear is + and the other one is -. You can drive them from the normal output with no harm and I did also try a 350v bias supply I was testing. They ran fine with that as well. 

 When I get a cable that isn't microphonic I'll convert them permanently by installing the earcup boards inside the /E.9. Then I can try the Stax phones on this crazy Koss circuitry. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

OK I did this and got the Koss ESP9 to run from Stax SRA12s and SRDP low bias amps, however the signal levels are down and there is a fair bit of distortion especially in the bass. Any ideas?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This seems to be the upcoming Stax SR-007 mk2!
 The picture have apparently been taken at HIGH END 2007 in Munich, Germany.






 The champagne colored chassis have been changed to a (brushed?) aluminum one. Thats the only difference I see compared to the current one...

 Remains to be seen if this is the final version though, and if there are some "minor" internal changes as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Does this mean that the current O2 will be dropped or will it stay on, hopefully cheaper? I recall that the 404 now sells for about 1/2 of its intitial price or 1/3 if you look at the PriceJapan price.

 Or maybe there will be some good second hand deals.


----------



## Duggeh

It may simply be a cosmetic change, silver metal with the black pads at last, bronze with the brown pads. The serial number inside the headband makes me question that being a revision in the design.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It may simply be a cosmetic change, silver metal with the black pads at last, bronze with the brown pads. The serial number inside the headband makes me question that being a revision in the design._

 

I was thinking the same thing, it wouldn't surprise me if the changes purely cosmetic. I guess only time will tell.


----------



## derekbmn

Some random things i've found while digging around for more info on the SR-007 mk2 !!

 1) Looks like they are talking a release date possibly in September. (but maybe later) 
 2) The pair at the show had no drivers.
 3) The talk was that they are making some changes to the drivers.
 4) My wallet is crying in pain

 Thats all i've found so far. Keep in mind this is all probably hearsay at this point.(except #4)


----------



## Duggeh

My hypothesis is that Stax has been scared into a revision after hearing the H2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Win-Win for all of us ultimately.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_4) My wallet is crying in pain_

 

My wallet is shouting *"Where, where, where?"* ...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Win-Win for all of us ultimately._

 

Indeed !
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (The change to your avy rocks !)

 krmathis - I think your in the whole denial stage at present .


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats man!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is the 7S broken or does it just need new caps and resistors?_

 

Well, there's about three dead 'lytics and some scratchy pots, but I think there is more to it than that. Maybe I'll luck out and it'll just need a new set of tubes.

 The problem is that none of the English speaking Stax servicers have the schematics for it, or at least they aren't forthcoming with them. I was going to contact Stax Japan about it, but then got too busy with various life matters and proceeded to forget about it. Just getting it fixed really isn't enough for me, at the very least I want to add a 580v bias supply to it.

 I have a feeling that the 7S and the YP1000 will make beautiful music together, if you will, but it's finding the time and willpower to make it happen is going to be tough.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is the way to go..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but mass is not the only solution to controlling the vibrations and the rumble. You want to control the resonance, not kill the dynamics._

 

High-mass and suspended turntables have quite different tones to them, but which sounds better is more of a personal preference thing if you ask me.

  Quote:


 This seems to be the upcoming Stax SR-007 mk2!
 The picture have apparently been taken at HIGH END 2007 in Munich, Germany.

 The champagne colored chassis have been changed to a (brushed?) aluminum one. Thats the only difference I see compared to the current one...

 Remains to be seen if this is the final version though, and if there are some "minor" internal changes as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Interesting. Unfortunately, the thing I disliked most about the O2 (the earcup design) seems to be completely unchanged. Wasted opportunity.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got an allied item number for that? I can't find a cheap connector that looks right._

 

According to spritzer, this should be it...

 As for that possible SR-007 update, some of us can only afford to dream about it (and even then, just barely! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), let alone the matching amp -- unless it would sound really really great out of an SRM-3 or SRM-001, that is...


----------



## Carl

Justin is alledgedly thinking about designing a portable electrostatic amp priced around $1000, but only if he can get about 50 orders for one. Discuss.


----------



## Duggeh

If he designs it and we can know battery life, size etc first. Then on that design he can see if he can get 50 orders at $1000.

 Certainly Kevin Gilmore was held up in his efforts due to a lack of suitable parts (micro torroids irc).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If he designs it and we can know battery life, size etc first. Then on that design he can see if he can get 50 orders at $1000.

 Certainly Kevin Gilmore was held up in his efforts due to a lack of suitable parts (micro torroids irc)._

 

There's no need to follow Kevin's design approach or a portable amp. Simple and elegant is preferable to brute force for a portable.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin is alledgedly thinking about designing a portable electrostatic amp priced around $1000, but only if he can get about 50 orders for one. Discuss._

 

That would be awesome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A little bit depending on the amplifiers design/specifications I would be all in for one.
 I would like/need some more information before I conclude:
 * What physical size?
 * Approximate battery time?
 * Which headphone connectors and bias voltage? Stax 5 or 6-pin, HE90, HE60, ...

 Justin. Please let us in on your design ideas, and hopefully you get 50 orders on this $1000 unit.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds superneat. You *should* go crazy with tonearm and pickup... the Garrard will more than live up to the supporting cast.

 Hey spritzer, did you build your own Blue Hawaii? How tough a project did you find it? Isn't one of the transistors no longer manufactured? (There is a SS section I believe.) Kevin's headwize page on the project doesn't seem very complete._

 

I think I might go a bit overboard but thats ok. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Headamp built my Blue Hawaii but I DIY'd a pair of KGSS amps. The BH is much harder to do and there are some part issues I know of. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I did this and got the Koss ESP9 to run from Stax SRA12s and SRDP low bias amps, however the signal levels are down and there is a fair bit of distortion especially in the bass. Any ideas?_

 

There might be a bias issue somewhere. That will almost always sound like extra distortion and even crackle a bit. Where did you connect the bias in each cup?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, there's about three dead 'lytics and some scratchy pots, but I think there is more to it than that. Maybe I'll luck out and it'll just need a new set of tubes.

 The problem is that none of the English speaking Stax servicers have the schematics for it, or at least they aren't forthcoming with them. I was going to contact Stax Japan about it, but then got too busy with various life matters and proceeded to forget about it. Just getting it fixed really isn't enough for me, at the very least I want to add a 580v bias supply to it.

 I have a feeling that the 7S and the YP1000 will make beautiful music together, if you will, but it's finding the time and willpower to make it happen is going to be tough._

 

It should be easy enough to fix if you can read the value on the caps. I would replace all caps and resistors because they will have drifted in value a lot over the years and might be causing you these troubles. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Unfortunately, the thing I disliked most about the O2 (the earcup design) seems to be completely unchanged. Wasted opportunity._

 

I think it is only a cosmetic makeover but I'm still hoping for a new driver.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would replace all caps and resistors because they will have drifted in value a lot over the years and might be causing you these troubles._

 

If the resistors are carbon comps, then I'll only replace them if I need to. Well, either that or I'll go crazy with the Rikens/Kiwames.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the resistors are carbon comps, then I'll only replace them if I need to. Well, either that or I'll go crazy with the Rikens/Kiwames._

 

They are most likely carbon comps and these will drift quite a bit with time. Although Riken's are cool tantalums are better and replace those scratchy pots with Alps RK50...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Although Riken's are cool tantalums are better_

 

Depends on how you want to voice the amp.

  Quote:


 and replace those scratchy pots with Alps RK50... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Multiple RK50s would cost more than I paid for the amp.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey spritzer, did you build your own Blue Hawaii? How tough a project did you find it? Isn't one of the transistors no longer manufactured? (There is a SS section I believe.) Kevin's headwize page on the project doesn't seem very complete._

 

Patrick, 

 I did, with some troubleshooting / repair help from Alex [AK]zip... he will be able to help you with MANY of your questions regarding a BH build - I can, but he would be better.

 The truly toughest thing (after finding boards) is the BOM (which I did develop), and the casing (heatsinking, etc)... in all, about a month to get parts, and a couple of weeks to build, depending on how much time you can dedicate (~40-50 hours total).

 Oh, and regarding the 2SK389 Dual JFET, djgardner.com has a few, stocked to build Dynahi / dynalo amps, so there are a few left, and I even have a few, though keeping them as spares is a practical reality.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_High-mass and suspended turntables have quite different tones to them, but which sounds better is more of a personal preference thing if you ask me._

 

What?? Who's talking about suspended turntables? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Not me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depends on how you want to voice the amp._

 

The carbon has a warmer, more diffused tone but it isn't neutral in the absolute sense. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Multiple RK50s would cost more than I paid for the amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

and the problem is...???


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_The problem is that none of the English speaking Stax servicers have the schematics for it, or at least they aren't forthcoming with them. I was going to contact Stax Japan about it, but then got too busy with various life matters and proceeded to forget about it._

 

I don't know if you have this already, but here's the SRA-7S schematic.

http://wiki.livedoor.jp/funya2420/d/SRA%2d7S

 Here's some other electrostatic amps, as well as a few dynamic ones.

http://wiki.livedoor.jp/funya2420/d/FrontPage


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *patrickamory* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What?? Who's talking about suspended turntables? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not me._

 

Well, I was looking at things in a broader sense. How the resonance is controlled affects the sound just like a musical instrument and they all have different tones.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The carbon has a warmer, more diffused tone but it isn't neutral in the absolute sense._

 

Is the SRA-7S is ever going to be neutral? Horses for courses.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know if you have this already, but here's the SRA-7S schematic.

http://wiki.livedoor.jp/funya2420/d/SRA%2d7S_

 

That's a modified version of the output stage. The actual values in the amp are very different indeed. It's also no help when it comes to the rest of the amp.


----------



## patrickamory

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I was looking at things in a broader sense. How the resonance is controlled affects the sound just like a musical instrument and they all have different tones._

 

Naturally.... I was contrasting a plinth that was simply massive with a plinth that may or may not be heavy but that controls the resonance through choice of materials, constrained layer damping, voids, glues and other techniques.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the SRA-7S is ever going to be neutral? Horses for courses._

 

Maybe not but I see little sense in mucking up the sound any more then you have to. It could be a very good amp if you replace the parts where there has been real progress over the years and reroute some of the wires and traces. People did in those days actually believe PCB's were a good idea. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a modified version of the output stage. The actual values in the amp are very different indeed. It's also no help when it comes to the rest of the amp._

 

So how about drawing up a schematic for us? Pretty please...


----------



## audiod

Does anybody know if the Omega II have a detachable chord?

 Thanks... AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody know if the Omega II have a detachable chord?

 Thanks... AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well anything is detachable if your strong enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but no there isn't a connector like on the SR-Omega.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody know if the Omega II have a detachable chord?

 Thanks... AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It does not have a detachable chord .


----------



## theBigD

i just got the stax 2050II basic system from ocean machine. wow, the comfort of these things are amazing! what a contrast to the sr-001 mk2 ive been using. im listening in all of my free time because they are just sooo damn comfortable. i really love the stax sound, especially the speed and quickness of these. i only wish they had a little more punch in the bass dept, but i think maybe that is because i am listening to stock xfi card right now, maybe the xfi mod i plan on doing will help. these have been a nice complement to my akg 701s, the 701s have a little better bass, but seem a little sluggish when listening to hard rock for instance. i cant believe how good stax are for heavy metal. i always kinda thought they were supposed to be good for classical, but never heard how good they would be for megadeath or other hard rock, i love the how detailed these are, most dynamic headphones kinda push all the sound together in heavy metal so you cant clearly hear the singer or instrumentation. anyway, just thought id rave a little.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be awesome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A little bit depending on the amplifiers design/specifications I would be all in for one.
 I would like/need some more information before I conclude:
 * What physical size?
 * Approximate battery time?
 * Which headphone connectors and bias voltage? Stax 5 or 6-pin, HE90, HE60, ...

 Justin. Please let us in on your design ideas, and hopefully you get 50 orders on this $1000 unit._

 

I think the problem is more that getting 50 willing buyers is a long shot and Justin isn't going to look at it seriously unless there is a decent amount of interest. It's not that there aren't 50 people in the world who'd love a portable electrostatic amp, but they have to know about it first and it's inevitable that there'd need to be level of trust in regards to sound quality, etc since there's virtually no chance we'd get to hear or see it in advance. Oh, and they'd have to be willing to wait for the amp to be completed (probably about a year). 

 I'm certainly in if 49 other willing people can be found. A risk perhaps but a good one on the scale of things.


----------



## krmathis

mirumu. Thats fair enough.
 I understand that Justin wont spend much time on this project until he get the 50 orders needed to on with the development. I also know that most people, me included, like to see the finished product before buying.

 But I will make an exception this time, since I faith in Justin and that he will make a great sounding and looking amplifier.
*So I am in!* Regardless how it comes out...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin is alledgedly thinking about designing a portable electrostatic amp priced around $1000, but only if he can get about 50 orders for one. Discuss._

 


 $1,000.00 for a portable? 

 The old Stax SRDP/SRDX etc. portable amps aren't too bad. I sold an SRM1 one amp to a guy who made a hedaphone adapter to run Lambdas from them with large batteries. He though it sounded pretty good.


----------



## mirumu

krmathis, I agree completely. I'm not someone who likes to buy without hearing or seeing first either. This did seem like a good time to make an exception though like you say. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$1,000.00 for a portable? 

 The old Stax SRDP/SRDX etc. portable amps aren't too bad. I sold an SRM1 one amp to a guy who made a hedaphone adapter to run Lambdas from them with large batteries. He though it sounded pretty good._

 

That's really the problem. Everything else out there is a compromise in some form. You're either carrying around large battery packs/amps or you're getting something that sounds not too bad rather than great. I'm not wanting to put words in anyone's mouth but Justin has suggested that he didn't believe it's practical to do it for less than $1000 and Kevin seemed to be indicating much the same. Maybe something cheaper could be made but is it going to sound better enough when compared with the SRM-001 to justify the purchase?

 I know some don't like to spend a lot on portable gear but at the same time the design constraints on portable equipment are much higher, especially so when it comes to electrostatic gear. As much as I'd like cheaper equipment myself I do think there's a degree of inevitability in that good portable electrostatic sound is not going to come cheap.


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never really understood the point trying to "portablize" high end audio. Is someone really to going to drag along their clunky O2's or Lambda's just to have electrostatic bliss on the go? It seems like an incredibly impractical and needlessly expensive thing to do._

 

x2

 A cheaper and hassle-free compromise would be to get custom IEMs. They come pretty close to the performance of the higher end electrostats.


----------



## catscratch

I don't see how a $1k portable electrostatic amp is a good idea, given how good a custom-molded IEM out of a good dynamic portable amp can sound, while being infinitely more practical. The cost needs to come down, or the amp has to be _really_ small, sound _really_ good, and be _really_ handy and practical, and be capable of driving something like an O2 or HE90 to relatively high quality.

 Electrostats, at least the cheaper ones, don't have enough of a sonic edge over custom-molded canalphones (or at least over the ES2, since I don't have experience with any other custom canalphones) to justify taking such a massive hit in portability to carry them on the move. And, if you want to share the electrostatic sound with others, there's always the SR-001, which isn't bad by any means.

 But, I suppose, if head-fi can field 50 maniacs who are willing to pay for it, then it might work. I doubt I'll be one of them. I'd rather spring for the new Westone custom instead.

 Edit: A $400 portable ES amp that can drive a pair of SR-003's much better than the Stax portable amps, or drive an SR-202 to high quality, may be a better idea, especially if it's small. Maybe a class-D amp with a digital input?


----------



## Duggeh

The SR-001 does a pretty sweet job of electrostat on the move. Its only problem is battery life.

 Of course, in my dream world the iPod would have an SRM-001 socket instead of a 3mil jack.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-001 does a pretty sweet job of electrostat on the move. Its only problem is battery life.

 Of course, in my dream world the iPod would have an SRM-001 socket instead of a 3mil jack._

 

Oh man, an mp3 player with full lossless support, gapless, with a digital amp and a Stax socket for the SR-003. I'd give my left... err, I'd pay a lot for that!


----------



## mirumu

I like my Shure E500s, they're what I use at work paired with my Xin SuperMacro IV. They come very close to beating the SR-003s (probably do beat them in some regards) but they don't come even close to my O2s, 404s or SR-X Mk3 (or the 4070 or HE60). 

 I have no doubt custom IEMs probably are much closer but the ES2s cost $650 (Earphone Solutions) and the UE10 Pros cost $950 (Headroom). Add in an portable amp and you're going to be at least close to $1000 anyway assuming that you don't already own a portable rig. On top of that there's those who just can't take wearing IEMs (I am glad I am not one).

 Sure a $1K portable electrostatic amp isn't going to be to everyone's taste but I don't think it's really that impractical or overly expensive compared with a custom IEM solution. A lot depends on how you will use them. Are you using them on the bus or in the office? Walking down the street or in your hotel out of town? At the gym or sitting out on the porch at your beach house? What's practical or not will be determined by usage.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A $400 portable ES amp that can drive a pair of SR-003's much better than the Stax portable amps, or drive an SR-202 to high quality, may be a better idea, especially if it's small. Maybe a class-D amp with a digital input?_

 

Back in 2002 Kikifish detailed how to mod the SR-001 amp, with claims it raised the performance considerably - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage. In 2005 - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage - there was discussion about getting more out of it via power sources though I agree with the overall advice to just use an external 4.5 Volt battery approach (raises its performance slightly) and/or an SRD-XPro (with a 5-Pin adapter) for when you've arrived at a 'home base' (which gives you its best). The 2005 thread also details how to use an inline method of EQing that could help with the top end roll-off issue. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Personally I prefer to adapt from what's already available - I'd mod the SR-001 amp as a first call then look at best approaches to sound isolating the SR-001 phones (if possible). Like others, though, I've seen this as too much work for the time I have ATM so I use dynamic for true portable operations.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Back in 2002 Kikifish detailed how to mod the SR-001 amp, with claims it raised the performance considerably - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage. In 2005 - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage - there was discussion about getting more out of it via power sources though I agree with the overall advice to just use an external 4.5 Volt battery approach (raises its performance slightly) and/or an SRD-XPro (with a 5-Pin adapter) for when you've arrived at a 'home base' (which gives you its best). The 2005 thread also details how to use an inline method of EQing that could help with the top end roll-off issue. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Personally I prefer to adapt from what's already available - I'd mod the SR-001 amp as a first call then look at best approaches to sound isolating the SR-001 phones (if possible). Like others, though, I've seen this as too much work for the time I have ATM so I use dynamic for true portable operations. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I don't think you will gain much by modding the amp. When I compare the SR001 with its amp (and fresh batteries) to the 003 (the same phones with the normal Stax connector) run off a big Stax 717, I don't hear too much difference. An upgraded IC certainly helps the 001( I use the Headroom) and some Silclear on contacts including battery terminals.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Back in 2002 Kikifish detailed how to mod the SR-001 amp, with claims it raised the performance considerably - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage. In 2005 - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...+Power+Voltage - there was discussion about getting more out of it via power sources though I agree with the overall advice to just use an external 4.5 Volt battery approach (raises its performance slightly) and/or an SRD-XPro (with a 5-Pin adapter) for when you've arrived at a 'home base' (which gives you its best). The 2005 thread also details how to use an inline method of EQing that could help with the top end roll-off issue. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Personally I prefer to adapt from what's already available - I'd mod the SR-001 amp as a first call then look at best approaches to sound isolating the SR-001 phones (if possible). Like others, though, I've seen this as too much work for the time I have ATM so I use dynamic for true portable operations. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good info there! It seems a lot of us have traveled a similar road with the 001. My experience has been that they need 4.5V to build the charge up, then can be run with the internal 3.0V supply for a good while, until the charge dissipates. The volume just is a little lower. But without that initial charge-up, they seem dull and lifeless. 

 I concocted a 4.8V battery pack, using 4 of the 1.2V 2500 maH rechargeable batteries, that seems to give around 4 hours life. (It would do better with an auto-off switch, since I usually fall asleep wearing the 001s, and wake up with a discharged battery pack!)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never really understood the point trying to "portablize" high end audio. Is someone really to going to drag along their clunky O2's or Lambda's just to have electrostatic bliss on the go? It seems like an incredibly impractical and needlessly expensive thing to do._

 

There are different ways to go portable with a Stax rig.
 1. In public places (train, subway, gym, etc.)
 2. To the garden, a friends place, at a hotel when traveling, or just move over to the coach.

 I don't see the problem with doing a #2 with a Lambda Pro and a Headamp portable amplifier. But I would probably never go public places with the same rig.
 They are simply too open (don't block out any noise) and looks a "bit" bulky. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am certain that I would find use for a portable (full sized) Stax rig.


----------



## Djarum

I have a pair of SR-80 headphones where the plastic piece connecting the headband to the earspeaker (TM) has shattered into 3 pieces. Do any of you fine folks know if there's any way to buy a replacement part for that? Or have a spare one lying around that I could buy?

 Maybe I should take this as an excuse to buy a better set of heaphones like a lambda, but it seems like a shame to have a pair of headphones go to waste because of such a small thing breaking.


----------



## jigster

Thinking of using the SRM-T1W as a pre-emp to a ss power amp, not sure how good it is at doing that. If it sucks then I may get a dedicated pre or an integrated instead. Anyone got any experience with Stax tube amps as a pre-emp? How do they stack up? Thanks!


----------



## John Buchanan

The Stereophile review of the Stax Lambda Nova Signature/SRM T1W suggested that the preamp was good. See Stereophile website for the review


----------



## audiod

Good deals are still available. I've been looking for a second pair of Lambda Pro's. Just got a Cherry Mint Lambda Pro and SRM-1mkII Pro from Audiogon for $300 USD. Happy Day!

 AudioD


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good deals are still available. I've been looking for a second pair of Lambda Pro's. Just got a Cherry Mint Lambda Pro and SRM-1mkII Pro from Audiogon for $300 USD. Happy Day!_

 

That is a *great* price! I paid, um, more than that for mine.


----------



## milkpowder

Yay, I've lost my virginity: Biased my Stax amp (or any amp) for the first time
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just rolled in some NOS Raytheon 6CG7s... Thanks Spritzer for the help
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are these the real deal? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electro-Harmon...QQcmdZViewItem They seem quite pricey compared to the Raytheons or RCA Cleartops...

 One question: do the tubes in the 006t need to be matched? I seem to remember some website saying that matched tubes aren't necessary in certain applications. Iirc, the tubes in the 006t are used in the gain stage... The "power amp" is solid state.




 EDIT: these new tubes are brilliant. It might be placebo, but I'm hearing deeper bass
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I wonder how long burn-in takes.


----------



## jigster

Man, these photos of the Omega 1's are being used indiscriminately. They are sure going round and round in Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEA...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, these photos of the Omega 1's are being used indiscriminately. They are sure going round and round in Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEA...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

Yes, and just registered, and with zero feedback, and keeping IDs private!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay, I've lost my virginity: Biased my Stax amp (or any amp) for the first time
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just rolled in some NOS Raytheon 6CG7s... Thanks Spritzer for the help
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are these the real deal? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electro-Harmon...QQcmdZViewItem They seem quite pricey compared to the Raytheons or RCA Cleartops...

 One question: do the tubes in the 006t need to be matched? I seem to remember some website saying that matched tubes aren't necessary in certain applications. Iirc, the tubes in the 006t are used in the gain stage... The "power amp" is solid state.




 EDIT: these new tubes are brilliant. It might be placebo, but I'm hearing deeper bass
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I wonder how long burn-in takes._

 

Glad to be of service. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Let the tubes settle in for about 30-40 hours and see if you like the sound more. These tubes are more balanced and relaxed then the stock ones and that might not be your flavor.

 Always use matched power tubes. It's almost impossible to bias the amp if the tubes aren't closely matched. The 6CG7/6FQ7 isn't in high demand NOS so they are still pretty cheap.


----------



## akwok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, these photos of the Omega 1's are being used indiscriminately. They are sure going round and round in Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEA...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

Those headphones are now with Head-Fi member morphsci. And I doubt he'll be letting go of them anytime soon!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-001 does a pretty sweet job of electrostat on the move. Its only problem is battery life.
_

 

I just keep an extra set of rechargeable AA's on hand.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to be of service. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Let the tubes settle in for about 30-40 hours and see if you like the sound more. These tubes are more balanced and relaxed then the stock ones and that might not be your flavor.

 Always use matched power tubes. It's almost impossible to bias the amp if the tubes aren't closely matched. The 6CG7/6FQ7 isn't in high demand NOS so they are still pretty cheap._

 

Thanks again.

 The bass is definitely deeper. The soundstage is pretty massive, and everything is pretty lush sounding but quite undefined compared to stock tubes... Slightly mushy-sounding and boomy? I hope you're right and it'll tighten up a bit. More laid-back sounding than before and more O2-esque. I can't believe the difference is so big!

 Should I try some RCA Cleartops? There are some for sale from the Tube Depot.

 To everyone with a 006t or 007t: swap out those tubes and see if you like them! It's dead easy. Just be careful not to touch the amp by the metal parts when the tops off (I learned this the hard way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks again.

 The bass is definitely deeper. The soundstage is pretty massive, and everything is pretty lush sounding but quite undefined compared to stock tubes... Slightly mushy-sounding and boomy? I hope you're right and it'll tighten up a bit. More laid-back sounding than before and more O2-esque. I can't believe the difference is so big!

 Should I try some RCA Cleartops? There are some for sale from the Tube Depot.

 To everyone with a 006t or 007t: swap out those tubes and see if you like them! It's dead easy. Just be careful not to touch the amp by the metal parts when the tops off (I learned this the hard way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)._

 

I found the Cleartops to be slightly edgy and uneven but they had their own strengths. Try out as many tubes as you can because tuberolling is very system specific and a what you want from your system.


----------



## milkpowder

A complete transformation is what I hear. The HE60 sound like a completely different beast. It's so much more relaxed and airy compared to before. There is no question the Raytheons are more relaxing to listen to than the stock tubes. I had two criticisms of the HE60 before the tube change: intense, aggressive sound in a small soundstage and lack of bass extension. After rolling in the 'new' tubes, the aggressive sound is gone; the sound has literally _opened up_ and the bass extension has definitely deepened. However it isn't all great. The midrange sounds a bit on the dreamy side and clarity is somewhat compromised. Decay is much longer than before. The sound signature has changed. It's more Stax-like and no longer sounds like the "Grado of electrostats".


 I've always wanted a more relaxed sound from the HE60, but now that I finally get it (with minimal expenditure), I'm missing the shear clarity and definition
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there really no such thing as the best of both worlds? I'll definitely give the Cleartops a try. There are quite a few NIB, NOS matched pairs on eBay. Thank goodness the demand for them isn't that high.

 My conclusion: the 006t's sound is very tube dependent and that has an impact on the sound signature of the HE60.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A complete transformation is what I hear. The HE60 sound like a completely different beast. It's so much more relaxed and airy compared to before. There is no question the Raytheons are more relaxing to listen to than the stock tubes. I had two criticisms of the HE60 before the tube change: intense, aggressive sound in a small soundstage and lack of bass extension. After rolling in the 'new' tubes, the aggressive sound is gone; the sound has literally opened up and the bass extension has definitely deepened. However it isn't all great. The midrange sounds a bit on the dreamy side and clarity is somewhat compromised. Decay is much longer than before. The sound signature has changed. It's more Stax-like and no longer sounds like the "Grado of electrostats".


 I've always wanted a more relaxed sound from the HE60, but now that I finally get it (with minimal expenditure), I'm missing the shear clarity and definition
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there really no such thing as the best of both worlds? I'll definitely give the Cleartops a try. There are quite a few NIB, NOS matched pairs on eBay. Thank goodness the demand for them isn't that high.

 My conclusion: the 006t's sound is very tube dependent and that has an impact on the sound signature of the HE60._

 

It could be the tubes you are hearing or the rest of the setup responding to the new tubes. Try a different source or some other cables and see if it makes any difference. There is also the underlying fact that Sennheiser and neutrality doesn't mix.


----------



## Carl

Raytheons might not be the best pick for an HE60. They have a different set of strengths and weaknesses from your favourite Stax. You might even want to try a different interconnect cable.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After all the advice here, I've revised my original plan of waiting to pounce on a cheap SR-X into a plan of waiting to pounce on an SR-X or an SR-5 gold. Which at least does double the prospects, what?_

 

After fruitless months of waiting for an SR-X III to show up for a decent price on ebay.de, I finally instead jumped on a cheap SR-5/SRD-6 SB combo. (Well cheap according to what seems to be the new paradigm, i.e., 97 euros) It was the self-biasing that sold me with the potential for easy transatlantic use. 

 I wasn't expecting all that much after the many words of warning, so of course I was pleasantly surprised by the really fine sound. I fully understand the complaints of cheap housing and warmish signature, and it's frustrating that the sound changes dramatically with different ear positioning and a little more pressure than the incredibly weak headband exerts. Yet as I say the sound is really quite pleasing-- detailed, extended, and lively. Organic, almost. And though the headband is floppy, they are passably comfortable. I see the SR-X has pretty much the same floppy headband, though.

 So what am I missing with the SR-5 that an SR-X would give me? How large is the difference? I feel like I'm slowly closing in on my sound. Now I need to spend more time comparing the SR-5 to my best orthodynamics. I'm surprised that my first impression has them in the opposite position from what I'd expected, with the orthos airier and maybe clearer, and the Stax warmer and perhaps more engaging.


----------



## saint.panda

Do you guys think this one is legit? http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...3401&rd=1&rd=1


----------



## Duggeh

No.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys think this one is legit? http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...3401&rd=1&rd=1_

 

Not a chance!
 Why do I claim so you might ask...

 1. The headphone pictures belong to the Head-Fi member 'morphsci'.
 2. morphsci are situated in the US, while this seller are situated in the UK.
 3. Why would he use pictures showing a different pair than the one he' selling?
 Take a look at these auctions, which are the pair that 'morphsci' own (note the serial number).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180070640374
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260096341148

 I would stay clear!


----------



## saint.panda

Thanks guys.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saint.panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You're most welcome!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After fruitless months of waiting for an SR-X III to show up for a decent price on ebay.de, I finally instead jumped on a cheap SR-5/SRD-6 SB combo. (Well cheap according to what seems to be the new paradigm, i.e., 97 euros) It was the self-biasing that sold me with the potential for easy transatlantic use. 

 I wasn't expecting all that much after the many words of warning, so of course I was pleasantly surprised by the really fine sound. I fully understand the complaints of cheap housing and warmish signature, and it's frustrating that the sound changes dramatically with different ear positioning and a little more pressure than the incredibly weak headband exerts. Yet as I say the sound is really quite pleasing-- detailed, extended, and lively. Organic, almost. And though the headband is floppy, they are passably comfortable. I see the SR-X has pretty much the same floppy headband, though.

 So what am I missing with the SR-5 that an SR-X would give me? How large is the difference? I feel like I'm slowly closing in on my sound. Now I need to spend more time comparing the SR-5 to my best orthodynamics. I'm surprised that my first impression has them in the opposite position from what I'd expected, with the orthos airier and maybe clearer, and the Stax warmer and perhaps more engaging._

 

The SR-X Mk3 is a better headphone but it isn't as good as many believe. The SR-5 is warmer and slightly more distant while the SR-X is more engaging and quick on its feet. The SR-5 has a slightly bigger soundstage and more perceived bass but the SR-X bass is cleaner and extends a whole lot more but is sorely lacking in comparison to it's replacement, the SR-Lambda. Personally I like the SR-3/5 line a lot but the SR-X is slightly better and the SR-Lambda is much better then all of them put together. I would only buy an SR-X if you can get them cheap because the current prices are simply crazy. 

 The warm sound you are hearing is the fiber glass backwave diffuser mucking up the sound. You might like the phones more after they are removed but they were put there for a reason, to hide something in the sound signature. With the SR-X Mk3 it hides their bright nature and the terribly boxed in midrange. 

 You should bend the headband to get a better fit because that's how they were designed. You could also play with the height adjustment to get a better fit with more pressure on the ears. The SR-X headband is similar in design but they aren't interchangeable.


----------



## facelvega

Thanks, spritzer! Though now you have me thinking of tampering with the backwave diffuser to tweak the sound. Any recommendations on that front? Do I need to spend some time with the search function?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, spritzer! Though now you have me thinking of tampering with the backwave diffuser to tweak the sound. Any recommendations on that front? Do I need to spend some time with the search function?_

 

There isn't much info on this available if you don't count my insane ramblings. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just open up the housing by removing the 3 screws under the earpads but be careful because soft plastic and metal screws aren't the best idea in the world. Separate the front an back portions and you should see the the fiber glass mat covered by a black nylon mesh behind the driver. It's a good idea to short the pins on the plug with your fingers to remove the residual bias voltage or the drivers might zap you. The fiber glass and nylon mesh acts as an insulator for the connections on the back of the driver so be careful that any bare metal parts aren't touching the metal mesh. I tend to leave the nylon mesh in place to act as a dust cover and to provide some filtering, however subtle. I have tried this on a few phones and with only one success, the SR-Lambda. It transformed them from a good but not great to my second favorite headphone so you should try and see if you like the change.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, spritzer! Though now you have me thinking of tampering with the backwave diffuser to tweak the sound. Any recommendations on that front? Do I need to spend some time with the search function?_

 

Definately try it both ways. Personally I liked the SRX with it more than without it. More clarity and imaging isn't worth the price of a thin and wispy tonality. Of course as with all things YMMV.


 I'm glad that fake O1 got removed. Those scam auctions get a worrying amount of bids.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definately try it both ways. Personally I liked the SRX with it more than without it. More clarity and imaging isn't worth the price of a thin and wispy tonality. Of course as with all things YMMV.


 I'm glad that fake O1 got removed. Those scam auctions get a worrying amount of bids._

 

I've also put the fiber glass back in my recabled set. While I prefer them open backed the midrange coloration is unbearable. It is a very personal choice whether you like it or not. SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro users should especially experiment with the fiber glass because it makes a profound difference.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X Mk3 is a better headphone but it isn't as good as many believe. The SR-5 is warmer and slightly more distant while the SR-X is more engaging and quick on its feet. The SR-5 has a slightly bigger soundstage and more perceived bass but the SR-X bass is cleaner and extends a whole lot more but is sorely lacking in comparison to it's replacement, the SR-Lambda. Personally I like the SR-3/5 line a lot but the SR-X is slightly better and the SR-Lambda is much better then all of them put together. I would only buy an SR-X if you can get them cheap because the current prices are simply crazy. _

 

It seems to be a question of personal preferences and perspective.
 I'm owning different Lambdas for several years now.Normal bias Lambdas, Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova, SR 303, SR 404.Not all of them at the same time, but there most of the time one in my house for maybe 7 years now.
 I was fascinated by the special electrostatic way of sound, but frankly: they never got much listening time.There was always something wrong with the sound of the Lambdas, no matter which source or amp.
 Many recordings were simply unlistenable with the Lambdas, no matter which source or amp.Admittedly these recordings are often not so well mastered, but that's just the way it is.I don't have much use for headphones that render the majority of my music collection into unlistenable crap.
 On top of that even with good recordings there was always a hint of something being wrong.I couldn't put my finger on it.
 Nowadays I think it's a combination of partially weird frequency response and distortion caused by a crappy housing.Yes, maybe the housing does not only look and feel crappy but in fact it is also in technical terms.
 For a long time I thought the reason for my love/hate relationship with the Lambdas is due to something lacking upstream in my rigs or the lamentable state of sound engineering.I've often heard complaints of the loudspeaker crowd that $$$$$ loudspeaker rigs tend to render most music into crap and I thought I was hit by the same phenomenon.
 That's wrong.
 The Omega II proves it.
 The Omega is so much better than any Lambda in any regard, it's just no comparison.What's even more important for me is that they are suitable for most of my music except really bad recordings, and the latter are rare in my collection.I can clearly hear the flaws of mediocre recordings, but it doesn't affect the enjoyment in such a negative way.Plus I don't suffer from listener fatigue as long as I avoid listening to modern overcompressed stuff for hours in a row.
 My personal conclusion after owning most Lambdas : The Lamdas aren't worth much since they all might execute sounds in an interesting way but rarely convey the musical message.They are the MDR-SA 5000s of electrostats.Hard words, i know, but to my ears all Lambdas are high-rez crap.
 In this context  Quote:


 I would only buy an SR-X if you can get them cheap because the current prices are simply crazy. 
 

 is totally wrong from my point of view.I will surely sell both my remaining Lambdas but I will most probably keep the SRX since it has an enjoyable sound of its own that's vastly different from the Omega.The flawed Lambdas are just a promise that the Omega fulfilled and there's no reason to keep them.The SRX is a fast and relatively clear electrostat with a somewhat gradoish headstage, lacking bass and simply a different window into music.
 A SRX in good condition costs 120 - 150 Euros nowadays in central Europe including an SRD7 Adapter.What could you get elsewhere for this amount of money? A used HD600 or a used Grado SR225 or a K501, no dedicated headphone amp.The SRX is easily competitive to those dynamic cans so I wouldn't call it overprized.

 Preferences are different and we all hear different.For some listeners Lambdas are surely dream cans they can be content with.
 What I wanted to say is that no ones words should be taken as gospel.
 Even opinions of extremely experienced and knowledgable listeners like spritzer are biased by individual preferences and unique HRTFs, and your mileage will most probably vary.Everybody has to listen for himself and has to gain own experience.Be prepared for the unexpected.

 I guess all what spritzer and I have in common is that we both like the Omegas, but for totally different reasons.For instance I do not think that the Omegas absolutely need stellar and expensive amps.

 Ouch it's late and my girlfriend just asked me for another kind of pleasure in the bedroom.That's even better than listening to music with Omegas and writing about it so I'll write about my take on the Omegas another time.
 Stay tuned.........


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...to my ears all Lambdas are high-rez crap._

 

I currently own Stax SR-5, SR-X III, Lambda, Lambda Pro, 202,404, Omega II and can directly compare them on a SRM-717, SRM-006t and SRM-1 mkII Pro. I have also owned most of the “state of the art” contenders over the years. As much as I love the O2’s I still find myself spending a lot of time listening to the Lambda’s and Lambda Pro’s. It’s like owning Quad 63’s and Martin Logan CLS loudspeakers, both great but different. I think that most people in this thread would agree that calling the Lambda series “high-rez crap” is a bit strong. 

 We all do have our own opinions.

 AudioD


----------



## Downrange

My SR Lambdas have become my "bedside" nitey-nite set. Comfortable, engaging, sounds pretty good --

 But Omega IIs, they are not. Everything is relative, but these two are not in the same ballpark.

 OIIs sound great with Stax 007tII, btw. Will have my KGSS in a week or so for direct comparison with another contender. Can't wait.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems to be a question of personal preferences and perspective.
 Nowadays I think it's a combination of partially weird frequency response and distortion caused by a crappy housing.Yes, maybe the housing does not only look and feel crappy but in fact it is also in technical terms.
 ._

 

I am puzzled by this type of reaction to the Lambda line. I listen a lot to both a Lambda Nova and a 404 and find them excellent to great (for the 404). If the O2 is so great to your ear, it sounds like its the high frequency roll-off that you need. I suspect that over the years I have tweaked my systems to work well with the Lambda series. The latest tweak being Silclear silver contact enhancer. I also am an avid disc tweaker. I polish, sand and weight the little aluminum bastards. At any rate I find very few discs unlistenable even on the 404.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am puzzled by this type of reaction to the Lambda line._

 

I personally do know two other local head-fiers that were impressed at first by Lambda systems and had purchased them due to brief listening sessions at audio dealers and later had to realize that they don't enjoy their Stax systems as much as their (technically inferior) dynamic rigs, so it's not that uncommon.
 Look at me.I've always felt that electrostats have a great potential and are superior to dynamic headphones in more than one way.Seven years, several Lambdas, several amps, sources, interconnects.I didn't give up fast.Now I know there was nothing fundamentally wrong with my upstream gear.The Lambdas are simply not made for me.YMMV.
  Quote:


 If the O2 is so great to your ear, it sounds like its the high frequency roll-off that you need 
 

No, at least it's not the whole story.I'm not particularly fond of the treble shy Senn HD6X0 series, and look at my other favourite headphones : K1000 and modded W5000, not exactly known for rolled-off treble.It's not that the Lambdas do provide too much treble.I don't have perfect pitch hearing, I do adjust to different tonal balance relatively easy.It's true, I do prefer slightly the tonal balance of diffuse field equalized headphones, but even the free field presentation of the K1000s is no deal breaker.

 Naturally there's nothing wrong with liking the Lambdas.You are just not sensitive to their specific flaws.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am puzzled by this type of reaction to the Lambda line. I listen a lot to both a Lambda Nova and a 404 and find them excellent to great (for the 404). If the O2 is so great to your ear, it sounds like its the high frequency roll-off that you need. I suspect that over the years I have tweaked my systems to work well with the Lambda series. The latest tweak being Silclear silver contact enhancer. I also am an avid disc tweaker. I polish, sand and weight the little aluminum bastards. At any rate I find very few discs unlistenable even on the 404._

 

There is no high frequency rolloff with the Omega iI. It's not an 003.

 No one has, of course, been describing the 404 as in any way unlistenable. In fact, I personally found them great for pedestrian listening. The problem is that they have a skewed timbre that becomes increasingly annoying the harder you listen. Everyone listens for different things, so it's guaranteed that some people will not even notice it, and some will be driven to the brink by it. If you happen to be closer to the former end of the continuum than the latter then you should count yourself as fortunate.

 By the way, Ed, did I ever reply to that PM of yours? I've been worked off my feet recently so I might have forgotten.


 My biggest issue with the 404 wasn't even the timbre problem, I just found them criminally boring. then again, my musical preferences could hardly be said to reward pedestrian, laid back sound signatures. The SC-1 doesn't share that trait, thankfully, they're damn fine as far as lambdas go.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems to be a question of personal preferences and perspective.
 I'm owning different Lambdas for several years now.Normal bias Lambdas, Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova, SR 303, SR 404.Not all of them at the same time, but there most of the time one in my house for maybe 7 years now.
 I was fascinated by the special electrostatic way of sound, but frankly: they never got much listening time.There was always something wrong with the sound of the Lambdas, no matter which source or amp.
 Many recordings were simply unlistenable with the Lambdas, no matter which source or amp.Admittedly these recordings are often not so well mastered, but that's just the way it is.I don't have much use for headphones that render the majority of my music collection into unlistenable crap.
 On top of that even with good recordings there was always a hint of something being wrong.I couldn't put my finger on it.
 Nowadays I think it's a combination of partially weird frequency response and distortion caused by a crappy housing.Yes, maybe the housing does not only look and feel crappy but in fact it is also in technical terms.
 For a long time I thought the reason for my love/hate relationship with the Lambdas is due to something lacking upstream in my rigs or the lamentable state of sound engineering.I've often heard complaints of the loudspeaker crowd that $$$$$ loudspeaker rigs tend to render most music into crap and I thought I was hit by the same phenomenon.
 That's wrong.
 The Omega II proves it.
 The Omega is so much better than any Lambda in any regard, it's just no comparison.What's even more important for me is that they are suitable for most of my music except really bad recordings, and the latter are rare in my collection.I can clearly hear the flaws of mediocre recordings, but it doesn't affect the enjoyment in such a negative way.Plus I don't suffer from listener fatigue as long as I avoid listening to modern overcompressed stuff for hours in a row.
 My personal conclusion after owning most Lambdas : The Lamdas aren't worth much since they all might execute sounds in an interesting way but rarely convey the musical message.They are the MDR-SA 5000s of electrostats.Hard words, i know, but to my ears all Lambdas are high-rez crap._

 

You are taking my words completely out of context. The Lambdas aren't better then the O2's, not by a long shot, but in the 100$ electrostat price range an open backed SR-Lambda is the king. All of the Lambdas have their problems, some are because of the housing, some because of the fiber glass backing and some are because of the film used, but I would never call them high rez crap. The SR-Lambda is pretty bland stock, the Lambda Pro is just plain odd and very colored, the Lambda Signature is a bit thin and with some nasty coloration at the top end and the two other Signature try to fix the originals flaws while keeping the amazing clarity. 

 All of the Lambdas are forward and it is obvious that you don't like that. Contrary to what you believe it can be relieved with good system matching, an overly warm system will make the Lambdas sound off and a bright system will render them unusable. Neutrality is the way to go here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In this context is totally wrong from my point of view.I will surely sell both my remaining Lambdas but I will most probably keep the SRX since it has an enjoyable sound of its own that's vastly different from the Omega.The flawed Lambdas are just a promise that the Omega fulfilled and there's no reason to keep them.The SRX is a fast and relatively clear electrostat with a somewhat gradoish headstage, lacking bass and simply a different window into music.
 A SRX in good condition costs 120 - 150 Euros nowadays in central Europe including an SRD7 Adapter.What could you get elsewhere for this amount of money? A used HD600 or a used Grado SR225 or a K501, no dedicated headphone amp.The SRX is easily competitive to those dynamic cans so I wouldn't call it overprized.

 Preferences are different and we all hear different.For some listeners Lambdas are surely dream cans they can be content with.
 What I wanted to say is that no ones words should be taken as gospel.
 Even opinions of extremely experienced and knowledgable listeners like spritzer are biased by individual preferences and unique HRTFs, and your mileage will most probably vary.Everybody has to listen for himself and has to gain own experience.Be prepared for the unexpected.

 I guess all what spritzer and I have in common is that we both like the Omegas, but for totally different reasons.For instance I do not think that the Omegas absolutely need stellar and expensive amps.

 Ouch it's late and my girlfriend just asked me for another kind of pleasure in the bedroom.That's even better than listening to music with Omegas and writing about it so I'll write about my take on the Omegas another time.
 Stay tuned........._

 

I've seen way to many broken SR-X's to pay that much for them. The glue the holds the stators is failing fast so more and more will start to show some channel imbalance. This "market value" is because there is a bit of hype surrounding some Stax phones now and it will die down so I refuse to pay it. If people want to pay more it is their choice and money so go ahead and do it but be prepared that these are vintage cans and they can break down. 

 The SR-X will walk all over all of these dynamics just in terms of sheer musicality and so will the rest of the Stax lineup but if you listen to something that requires a bit more bass the Lambdas are a much better fit. 

 I will never say that I'm not biased and I do certainly have my own preferences and view of what I deem to be acceptable flaws in any headphone. I'm tolerant of some colorations, the Lambda etch for instance, and can stand some others, like the diffused soundstage of the He90. 

 If you think the SR-007 is fine with a lesser amp you've never heard them transformed by a very good one. I tried to use the T1 with them for about a week but gave up because the blob of sounds I was hearing wasn't my beloved Omegas. 

 In the end I'm a headphone collector so I'll be keeping all of mine but not everybody is as crazy as I am. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR Lambdas have become my "bedside" nitey-nite set. Comfortable, engaging, sounds pretty good --

 But Omega IIs, they are not. Everything is relative, but these two are not in the same ballpark.

 OIIs sound great with Stax 007tII, btw. Will have my KGSS in a week or so for direct comparison with another contender. Can't wait._

 

It's the same for me. The SR-007/Blue Hawaii part of rig doesn't get much use these days because I don't want to turn it on unless I'm going to spend some serious time with it. The T1 with one of my other headphones isn't nearly as good but just as fun . 

 Btw. Congrats on the KGSS, it will be a wakeup call for the SR-007 and the Lambdas will also benefit a lot.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am puzzled by this type of reaction to the Lambda line. I listen a lot to both a Lambda Nova and a 404 and find them excellent to great (for the 404). If the O2 is so great to your ear, it sounds like its the high frequency roll-off that you need. I suspect that over the years I have tweaked my systems to work well with the Lambda series. The latest tweak being Silclear silver contact enhancer. I also am an avid disc tweaker. I polish, sand and weight the little aluminum bastards. At any rate I find very few discs unlistenable even on the 404._

 

Carl is right, there isn't any hf roll-off with the O2's. They do not force the HF down your throat like most other transducers do and that has caused this myth. This is also an amplification issue because the top end goes all dark and murky when they aren't fed enough voltage.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do not force the HF down your throat like most other transducers do and that has caused this myth._

 

I would put it in slightly less diplomatic terms personally, but that's the gist of it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would put it in slightly less diplomatic terms personally, but that's the gist of it._

 

Diplomacy is overrated...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will have my KGSS in a week or so for direct comparison with another contender. Can't wait._

 

I look forward to see a full report!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR Lambdas have become my "bedside" nitey-nite set._

 

Me too!
 I think that the more forward presentation of the Lambda series make them especially desirable for late night low level listening.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ in the 100$ electrostat price range an open backed SR-Lambda is the king...

 This "market value" is because there is a bit of hype surrounding some Stax phones now and it will die down so I refuse to pay it. If people want to pay more it is their choice and money so go ahead and do it but be prepared that these are vintage cans and they can break down. _

 

Using German ebay over the last eight months as a measure, the days of the $100 electrostat are over-- and in the US, a very clean SR-X brought $217 yesterday. Even electrets are fetching that much these days, and not just sometimes but on virtually every auction. And I don't think this is due to a kind of short-cycle hype that will die down of its own accord, I think it's because the internet has multiplied the pool of potential buyers who even know what a Stax SR-X is. What's unclear to me is whether there will be a continued slow rise, a stalling out at these new prices (ca. 100/120/140 euros for an SR-3/5/X with transformer, with the Lambdas, any Lambda, pushing 200 minimum), or another jump in the next year or two. 

 In this new pricing landscape, what interests me (on my grad student stipend) is the bottom end. The SR-3, 3N, and non-gold 5 are the cheapest of all 'stat Stax, partially I suspect because they don't get much attention from the people driving the prices up. (namely YOU GUYS with the 60,000 views of this thread alone, and alas we're seeing the same thing with orthodynamic pricing due to increased notice of Wualta's stalwart efforts) From the advice I was given earlier in this thread, I took the risk on a SR-5/SRD-6sb, and I'm actually very pleased, though I don't really know how pleased because I haven't listened my way up the line yet. However, I'm thinking of visiting a hifi store near my office with my Wualta-modded Yamaha YH-100 in hand to do some A/B testing against the current Stax line. But for now, and not yet having heard an SR-X, I'm guessing that an SR-5 at 100 euros is a better deal than an SR-X at 150 or a base Lambda at 200. Could anyone else with a 5 and a couple of others chime in, to see if we have some consensus on this? (or am I just doing my part to drive up the prices of the SR-5 as well?)


----------



## Carl

I wonder how many of the people who pay crazy prices for second hand 'stats actually read this thread? Considering we regularly tell people they're paying too much for things in our little threads you'd think we'd reduce the instances of people paying $130 for a SR40 rather than increasing it.


----------



## facelvega

But that brings us back to Cosmopragma's point that we also tell them that an SR-X, say, will outperform dynamic headphones costing as much or more, and without the need for a costly dedicated amp. (assuming many already have passable full-size amps sitting around) For example, even I, knowing full well how much I ought to try to pay, broke down in the end and paid 100 euros for a mere SR-5, because by the time I did, I knew that this was as good a price as I was likely to find.

 As I mentioned above, the same thing is happening with old orthos, and for that matter with old Floats. Wualta conscientiously tells everyone not to pay above a certain amount for a certain headphone, and then they sell at double or triple this price, sometimes to a known head-fier. And with the orthos, it's a more controlled case study, as there is nearly no way to find out about them apart from this site. But of course, even so, I'm just speculating. And teasing you gents, naturally.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But for now, and not yet having heard an SR-X, I'm guessing that an SR-5 at 100 euros is a better deal than an SR-X at 150 or a base Lambda at 200. Could anyone else with a 5 and a couple of others chime in, to see if we have some consensus on this?_

 

Consensus is a flawed concept as far as enjoyability of headphones is concerned.I do like the SR-X way better than the SR-5, but that's just me.
 Is it worth the market price difference?You have to listen for yourself.
 I do understand that on a student budget it's impossible to buy any discontinued Stax for comparison purposes due to the risk of getting a lemon and losing too much money this way, but for the prize of a pizza you could gain some first hand experience.PM me your address and I'll send a SR-X in good condition to you.You can keep it for lets say six weeks and afterwards return it to me by insured shipment.Costs 7 Euros or so.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Using German ebay over the last eight months as a measure, the days of the $100 electrostat are over-- and in the US, a very clean SR-X brought $217 yesterday. Even electrets are fetching that much these days, and not just sometimes but on virtually every auction. And I don't think this is due to a kind of short-cycle hype that will die down of its own accord, I think it's because the internet has multiplied the pool of potential buyers who even know what a Stax SR-X is. What's unclear to me is whether there will be a continued slow rise, a stalling out at these new prices (ca. 100/120/140 euros for an SR-3/5/X with transformer, with the Lambdas, any Lambda, pushing 200 minimum), or another jump in the next year or two. 

 In this new pricing landscape, what interests me (on my grad student stipend) is the bottom end. The SR-3, 3N, and non-gold 5 are the cheapest of all 'stat Stax, partially I suspect because they don't get much attention from the people driving the prices up. (namely YOU GUYS with the 60,000 views of this thread alone, and alas we're seeing the same thing with orthodynamic pricing due to increased notice of Wualta's stalwart efforts) From the advice I was given earlier in this thread, I took the risk on a SR-5/SRD-6sb, and I'm actually very pleased, though I don't really know how pleased because I haven't listened my way up the line yet. However, I'm thinking of visiting a hifi store near my office with my Wualta-modded Yamaha YH-100 in hand to do some A/B testing against the current Stax line. But for now, and not yet having heard an SR-X, I'm guessing that an SR-5 at 100 euros is a better deal than an SR-X at 150 or a base Lambda at 200. Could anyone else with a 5 and a couple of others chime in, to see if we have some consensus on this? (or am I just doing my part to drive up the prices of the SR-5 as well?)_

 

It's sad but true although there are deals to be had if you are patient. The only ones you can get for much less then they are really worth are ones you mentioned and the Lambda and Lambda Signature. We are in the second Stax hype era that I know of and it will come to an end and people will move onto other things. 

 Whether the SR-5 is a better deal is a matter of personal choice and your sonic priorities. The SR-X's aren't 30% better (however that would be calculated) but they are better by providing a clearer window into the music.


----------



## wualta

I too have been saddened by the rise in prices over the last year or so-- after all, it's not as much fun to discuss heaphones that you can't recommend because they're unavailable or unaffordable-- but I have also seen signs (small but detectable, a JND) that a correction is taking place and that prices aren't heading irreversibly toward the Truly Awful. 

 If I ever write a detective novel, the heroine's name will be "Truly Awful" or some close variant. But I digress.

 Mostly, I think we do our job pretty well here on HF. We _do_ point out the flaws and pitfalls, and if one of us gets too fanboy about a 'phone, someone else with a tall poppy cutter will come along and trim his enthusiasm down to size. 

 Still, we do love our headphones, and this fuels demand. Not that we push a specific headphone, it's that we evidently enjoy headphone listening so much. People stumbling onto Head-Fi whose last experience of headphones was a cheap Walkman from 1989 compare the price of the headphones we discuss with the price of the high-end speakers they were going to buy and they can't believe their eyes. 

 Then there are the newbies with money who hear us describe reproduced sound in ultimate terms and decide they want something they can truly believe in and decide to invest in a big way on a High Romantic impulse. *We* know the sound we're talking about is not really ultimate because we are experienced, cynical _weltschmerzers_, but they, with their fresh faces and virgin wallets, don't. Smitten, they joyously plunge in... and once, we were just like them. Sigh.

 Then there are the collectors, some of whom will stop at nothing, who are tipped off by the model numbers we airily rattle off and can't be shooed away from a given auction even with war-surplus automatic weapons. But we can't stop talking about these 'phones, so what can ya do?

 It's good to recall that Keats, who gave us the deathless line "Thou Fostex-child of Silence and slow Time", was very young when he posited the famous equation of truth and beauty. What wild ecstasy, indeed. I think of him sometimes when I listen to my coincident-mic recordings of pipes and timbrels and wince as I hear the tendons in the timbrelist's wrist cracking.

 With ownership of the SR-X you take a giant step in the Truth direction, and it's not so much what you're approaching as what you're turning your back to. It's not a putdown in any way to say that the sound of the SR-5 is aimed more toward Beauty. In an ideal world, we'd all own both. One's not better than the other overall. One likes long walks along the beach at sunset, the other likes piloting its own L-39 Albatros.

 Then too, one's a circumaural and the other's a supra-aural. That alone would make a world of difference to some. 

 But what do I know.

 .


----------



## Downrange

I guess some folks just like to collect old stuff, and I do that in some hobbies, but for 422 USD plus ship, PriceJapan has a new 2050 set (new model Lambda 202s with new solid state amp) that is the updated model of my 202/212 combo (2020). The amp is fine (212 sounds 95 per cent as good as the 007tII -[ with the 202s, that is]), and the 202s are practically indistinguishable from the 404s, to be truthful about it (some people actually prefer the 202s).
 So, with shipping, you're in with essentially all the modern Lambda series has to offer -- no worries about old, moldy stuff not working, getting ripped off by a shipper who misrepresents it, replacing cushions saturated with some stranger's DNA, having it break and then trying to fix it, (you can send back new stuff with warranty), etc., etc. You can probably get a new 2050 with full U.S. warranty for around 500 or so, if you're really worried about it breaking, but mine (bought in Akihabara, Japan five years ago) have been fine. I know people who paid more than that for a set of Lambda Pros w/SRD-7Pro clunk box - discontinued in favor of the new line many years ago, and widely reported as having serious sonic flaws...
 2020s and 2050s show up on Audiogon used/mint for around 350 USD all the time. You're getting the updated Lambda driver technology, a decent amp (really!), compactness/portability, and warranty coverage. They run on any 12 V power supply; you probably have one laying around that matches your line voltage, or, if not, can get it for twenty bucks or less, so the JA wall wart is a no-never-mind.
 Just a no-brainer for me - I don't see why more people don't save the aggravation of the "moldy oldy" stuff and get something new for a little bit more that sounds better. Again, if you are a collector, or just love some quirk of the older, obsolete systems' sound, this is not meant to be a put-down. Enjoy! I've just found that the newer stuff usually sounds better for good reasons. (Sometimes there are quality and design improvement reasons why a product is changed - not just to make it more cheaply.) This viewpoint goes counter to what seems to me to be the predominant one expressed here; that's why I feel the need to put it out there from time to time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Just my .02, your mileage may vary!


----------



## tyre

.


----------



## Tachikoma

Each to his own, I suppose. I'll keep fishing in places other than ebay.com for my antique stax fix.

 On a completely unrelated note, my SR-5NB's cable sort of died on me, so I'm going to have it recabled with a fancy low capacitance stax extension cable


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl is right, there isn't any hf roll-off with the O2's. They do not force the HF down your throat like most other transducers do and that has caused this myth. This is also an amplification issue because the top end goes all dark and murky when they aren't fed enough voltage._

 

That's been my experience too. The 404s are brighter and more forward but do not actually expose any more HF in the recording than the O2s do. If I was someone who preferred the 404 sound signature then I'd just buy some HE60s instead since they beat the 404s at their own game and do so without the same degree annoying flaws. I do like the 404s for what they are, but I can't think of any way in which they beat the O2s and some music does seem to be unlistenable on them with my currently source/amp.

 Oh, an no overpriced vintage stats for me. I'm keen on a cheap normal bias Lambda and any HE60/HE90/Omega 1 bargains but if it takes years to find cheap deals then so be it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, Ed, did I ever reply to that PM of yours? I've been worked off my feet recently so I might have forgotten.

_

 

No I didn't geta reply. I am still interested in 1/2 of a SRX3.


----------



## edstrelow

As regards Omegas, Ithis frequency plot from Headroom can be pulled up for comparison with their other phones.







 I am not sure that Headroom got it entirely right but this seems to show some serious treble roll-off. For example between about 30Hz and 10 kHz there is more than a 20 dB drop. Overall there is a fairly sustained drop above 1kHz, with a few treble peaks. Even the Sennheiser 650 looks to have a bit more treble.

 I don't believe I have ever seen a 404 frequency plot.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No I didn't geta reply. I am still interested in 1/2 of a SRX3._

 

Oh, damn, sorry. I'll PM you in the morning.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As regards Omegas, Ithis frequency plot from Headroom can be pulled up for comparison with their other phones.






 I am not sure that Headroom got it entirely right but this seems to show some serious treble roll-off. For example between about 30Hz and 10 kHz there is more than a 20 dB drop. Overall there is a fairly sustained drop above 1kHz, with a few treble peaks. Even the Sennheiser 650 looks to have a bit more treble.

 I don't believe I have ever seen a 404 frequency plot._

 

It's a recession, not a rolloff. The treble extention is perfectly fine, one just wishes it had more of the stuff. I guess this more of a matter or terminology than a disagreement as such.

 Also, the O2 is extremely (and obnoxiously) seal dependant, and the FR goes haywire when you don't get it right. Looking at that plot I have a strong suspicion that they just slopped a pair onto their dunny head without adjusting the fit, which would have hardly done it any favours. The O2 certainly doesn't sound less linear than a HD650, not at all. In any case, if you like a nice present treble the O2 probably isn't the headphone for you, but properly amped and with a proper seal it certainly doesn't sound objectionably coloured.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, the O2 is extremely (and obnoxiously) seal dependant, and the FR goes haywire when you don't get it right. Looking at that plot I have a strong suspicion that they just slopped a pair onto their dunny head without adjusting the fit, which would have hardly done it any favours._

 

The FR also changes depending on where they're positioned relative to the ears as well. Not the easiest of headphones to measure I suspect. The O2s certainly aren't treble monsters by any means but my ears certainly hear no roll off on frequency response tests.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess some folks just like to collect old stuff, and I do that in some hobbies, but for 422 USD plus ship, PriceJapan has a new 2050 set (new model Lambda 202s with new solid state amp) that is the updated model of my 202/212 combo (2020). The amp is fine (212 sounds 95 per cent as good as the 007tII -[ with the 202s, that is]), and the 202s are practically indistinguishable from the 404s, to be truthful about it (some people actually prefer the 202s).
 So, with shipping, you're in with essentially all the modern Lambda series has to offer -- no worries about old, moldy stuff not working, getting ripped off by a shipper who misrepresents it, replacing cushions saturated with some stranger's DNA, having it break and then trying to fix it, (you can send back new stuff with warranty), etc., etc. You can probably get a new 2050 with full U.S. warranty for around 500 or so, if you're really worried about it breaking, but mine (bought in Akihabara, Japan five years ago) have been fine. I know people who paid more than that for a set of Lambda Pros w/SRD-7Pro clunk box - discontinued in favor of the new line many years ago, and widely reported as having serious sonic flaws...
 2020s and 2050s show up on Audiogon used/mint for around 350 USD all the time. You're getting the updated Lambda driver technology, a decent amp (really!), compactness/portability, and warranty coverage. They run on any 12 V power supply; you probably have one laying around that matches your line voltage, or, if not, can get it for twenty bucks or less, so the JA wall wart is a no-never-mind.
 Just a no-brainer for me - I don't see why more people don't save the aggravation of the "moldy oldy" stuff and get something new for a little bit more that sounds better. Again, if you are a collector, or just love some quirk of the older, obsolete systems' sound, this is not meant to be a put-down. Enjoy! I've just found that the newer stuff usually sounds better for good reasons. (Sometimes there are quality and design improvement reasons why a product is changed - not just to make it more cheaply.) This viewpoint goes counter to what seems to me to be the predominant one expressed here; that's why I feel the need to put it out there from time to time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Just my .02, your mileage may vary! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Amen brother. While I love the old Stax stuff all of them need to be cared for from time to time and even the odd repair here and there. The Basic setup would be great for most users and it is certainly better then the very colored Lambda Pro for about the same price. It's clear that new Stax models improve on their predecessors, though some of the improvements introduce new problems, so older=better is far from the truth. This doesn't mean you'll have to like the newer phones more but Stax has improved some part of them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's been my experience too. The 404s are brighter and more forward but do not actually expose any more HF in the recording than the O2s do. If I was someone who preferred the 404 sound signature then I'd just buy some HE60s instead since they beat the 404s at their own game and do so without the same degree annoying flaws. I do like the 404s for what they are, but I can't think of any way in which they beat the O2s and some music does seem to be unlistenable on them with my currently source/amp.

 Oh, an no overpriced vintage stats for me. I'm keen on a cheap normal bias Lambda and any HE60/HE90/Omega 1 bargains but if it takes years to find cheap deals then so be it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's the same in comparison with the He90, the SR-007 is actually much more detailed but in its usually understated way. I think the lack of a wow factor is their biggest strength but also pushes people away because most think that all high end products should floor them on the spot. 

 You really need a low bias Lambda and mate it with a slightly warm amp. Pure vintage bliss... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a recession, not a rolloff. The treble extention is perfectly fine, one just wishes it had more of the stuff. I guess this more of a matter or terminology than a disagreement as such.

 Also, the O2 is extremely (and obnoxiously) seal dependant, and the FR goes haywire when you don't get it right. Looking at that plot I have a strong suspicion that they just slopped a pair onto their dunny head without adjusting the fit, which would have hardly done it any favours. The O2 certainly doesn't sound less linear than a HD650, not at all. In any case, if you like a nice present treble the O2 probably isn't the headphone for you, but properly amped and with a proper seal it certainly doesn't sound objectionably coloured._

 

The only way to measure the O2's is by removing the headband or bending it to fit the thin dummy head. Getting the driver alignment right is crucial for a linear response.


----------



## johnmatrix

I was having some trouble with my Sr-x phones. The right driver continuously crackled which had been a recurring problem. In addition to this was a new problem, the right driver was also fading in and out which could be solved by shaking the ear cup which meant a loose connection somewhere. 

 The crackling was due to oxidation of the metal ring around the mylar. However, this time instead of shifting the ring to a new position I tried cleaning it. I found rubbing alcohol was very effective and removed the black oxidants with elbow grease. I cleaned both drivers this way. This solved the problem of the crackling in the right driver and I believe improved the sound quality of the phone. 

 The right channel was still cutting in and out however and due to the low distortion I assumed the bias pin was the problem.That hunch turned out to be true. I tested for continuity for all the cables and only the right bais pin had no connection. I replaced the entire cable with some silver covered copper which solved the problem. Hopefully my experiences can help others solve their maintenance issues.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was having some trouble with my Sr-x phones. The right driver continuously crackled which had been a recurring problem. In addition to this was a new problem, the right driver was also fading in and out which could be solved by shaking the ear cup which meant a loose connection somewhere. 

 The crackling was due to oxidation of the metal ring around the mylar. However, this time instead of shifting the ring to a new position I tried cleaning it. I found rubbing alcohol was very effective and removed the black oxidants with elbow grease. I cleaned both drivers this way. This solved the problem of the crackling in the right driver and I believe improved the sound quality of the phone. 

 The right channel was still cutting in and out however and due to the low distortion I assumed the bias pin was the problem.That hunch turned out to be true. I tested for continuity for all the cables and only the right bais pin had no connection. I replaced the entire cable with some silver covered copper which solved the problem. Hopefully my experiences can help others solve their maintenance issues._

 

Well done: I'm working up the courage to repair some SR-Xs where one channel is much quieter than the other (spritzer and others have given advice on this earlier in this thread).

 My question is, what did you use for a (6 pin) plug when you re-wired the SR-Xs?


----------



## johnmatrix

After recabling, my recommendation would be to buy a cable off ebay and use that. If you don't want to do that, here
 is the part. I would recommend using 22 awg wire or less so it can fit inside the metal pins. Make sure the wire is flexible. Also solder the wires to the plug first and then to the drivers. I did it the other way around and it was a pita. 

 BTW, what do you do for a channel imbalance?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After recabling, my recommendation would be to buy a cable off ebay and use that. If you don't want to do that, here
 is the part. I would recommend using 22 awg wire or less so it can fit inside the metal pins. Make sure the wire is flexible. Also solder the wires to the plug first and then to the drivers. I did it the other way around and it was a pita._

 

THAT part is the socket, which spritzer (I believe) has linked to before, and he also drew my attention to Allied Elec in the first place, but I can't seem to find the relevant PLUG on their site, which does NOT have a shroud around the pins (the shroud, of course, makes it useless for plugging into Stax trafos/amps).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, what do you do for a channel imbalance?_

 

Here, shamelessly quoting from Carl and spritzer (thanks guys!) earlier in this thread, is what I (when I get the courage!) intend to do, to see if I can fix the imbalance:

_See those jewelers screws on the side of the driver case? Unscrew them (be careful of cross-threading them), then gently 'flip the lid' and you'll get access to the diaphragm. Be careful of that thin bit of foil holding it together; your bias supply goes through that. Inspect, fiddle around with the spacer, do whatever you feel needs to be done to the driver, then reassemble it.

 The diaphragm is fitted to a metal ring and the the bias is connected to it with a spring. This is the only contact and something might have happened to it i.e. corrosion so if you rotate the diaphragm there will be a fresh contact point. 

 There is probably a corroded contact somewhere that slows the voltage buildup. Try to open up the driver to make new pressure contacts. It might work.

 There are four pins on the outside rim of the driver that you need to pull out to access the innards. You should remove the screw that holds the inner stator socket and lift it out of the way. The stator wires are extremely fragile so be careful. Now lift the out stator away. Inside the driver there are small springs that provide tension and also the connect point for the bias. The diaphragm is loose and it will fall out of the holder but please remember which side is which on the diaphragm because it is only coated on one side. Clean the small brass ring at the end of the bias spring and clean a fresh spot on the metal ring around the diaphragm to make a new contact point. If this doesn't fix it there might be something wrong with the coating and that is a whole new can of worms. _


----------



## johnmatrix

If it is the socket you are after, then I believe wooaudio has some without the shrouds. I used the part I linked for you on my cable and it worked wonderfully. I am not sure what your concern is.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it is the socket you are after, then I believe wooaudio has some without the shrouds. I used the part I linked for you on my cable and it worked wonderfully. I am not sure what your concern is._

 

The part you have linked is surely the socket, i.e., the female part (at least it looks that way to me!), into which a (male, 6 pin) plug is inserted, and which presumably duplicates those found on a Stax trafo/amp.

 In your previous post you talked about replacing the cables on your SR-Xs, which means you must have used a (male, 6 pin) plug at the end of the cables: it is your source of this plug I am after (Allied only seem to have shrouded plugs)...

 ...or did you just use the original Stax plug, surely not?


----------



## Fitz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The part you have linked is surely the socket, i.e., the female part (at least it looks that way to me!), into which a (male, 6 pin) plug is inserted, and which presumably duplicates those found on a Stax trafo/amp.

 In your previous post you talked about replacing the cables on your SR-Xs, which means you must have used a (male, 6 pin) plug at the end of the cables: it is your source of this plug I am after (Allied only seem to have shrouded plugs)...

 ...or did you just use the original one?_

 

That's a male connector, the picture is just showing the back end of it in front. If it's anything like some of the other old multi-pin connectors I have, the wires go all the way through the pins, and are soldered on the end.


----------



## spritzer

It's the plug he's linked to but they only show the back side of it. I've been working on the SR-X channel imbalance issue along with my work modifying them into Pro's. It can be a combination of a number of things that causes it, contacts are oxidized, the coating on the film is partially washed off, the glue that holds the stators in place has failed and they have shifted and the driver has suffered a serious blow and some pieces are broken or mangled. Some of these are easy to fix but there is no single cure for all phones, except a complete rebuild of the driver. It isn't easy because a variation of about 0.05mm will change the sound dramatically. 

 My Pro modification is progressing well and only really hampered by a lack of free time and the right materials but both will turn up in due time.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a strong suspicion that they just slopped a pair onto their dunny head ._

 

Strewth mate it's a dummy, not a flamin dunny!

 ( A little inside Antipodean humour)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin is alledgedly thinking about designing a portable electrostatic amp priced around $1000, but only if he can get about 50 orders for one. Discuss._

 

I am sad to see that there don't seem to be much interest in a portable electrostatic amplifier.
 Cause so far I have only seen a handful people respond that they are interested in one.

 Guess that means that there will be no such amplifier from HeadAmp!


----------



## facelvega

Allow me to digress from the current discussion. Who can tell me whether there is a preferred pick among the Stax electrets? Or a definite dog? Has anyone bothered to try several of them against one another? I'm not really thinking of going in that direction, but it does seem interesting how little we discuss these considering the large number of them in circulation, and the weird fact that they've been fetching SR-3 or 5 prices. Just curious.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sad to see that there don't seem to be much interest in a portable electrostatic amplifier.
 Cause so far I have only seen a handful people respond that they are interested in one.

 Guess that means that there will be no such amplifier from HeadAmp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yes, I feel the same way. I had suspected 50 wouldn't be achievable but it was a good cause.


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sad to see that there don't seem to be much interest in a portable electrostatic amplifier.
 Cause so far I have only seen a handful people respond that they are interested in one.

 Guess that means that there will be no such amplifier from HeadAmp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am interested but I think I am in the same boat with some others that don't feel comfortable blindly committing ourselves and our wallets to a product that we know nothing about.

 Happy Listening!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am interested but I think I am in the same boat with some others that don't feel comfortable blindly committing ourselves and our wallets to a product that we know nothing about.

 Happy Listening!_

 

Yes, it's a bit of catch-22 situation really. I trust Justin will make something that sounds great it does go against the grain to buy sight unseen.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_Allow me to digress from the current discussion. Who can tell me whether there is a preferred pick among the Stax electrets? Or a definite dog? Has anyone bothered to try several of them against one another? I'm not really thinking of going in that direction, but it does seem interesting how little we discuss these considering the large number of them in circulation, and the weird fact that they've been fetching SR-3 or 5 prices. Just curious._

 

It _is_ a good question. I haven't heard the [US market names] SR-40, which was their first attempt, or the SR-30/80 (same driver) or the SR-50 closed model that Carl has. I have an SR-80 Pro and an SR-30 Pro, and they're so similar that you might as well go for the one with a bit more bass, the 30 Pro. If anyone's been able to compare the Pros to the non-Pros, I'd be very curious to see it. Until that comparison appears, I say the pick is the 30 Pro. 

 Anyone else?


----------



## catscratch

Another random impressions rant:

 Listening to the SRM-007t some more, I feel that it's tonally still too cold for the SR-404. The 404 needs an excessively warm, lush, sappy, viscous sounding amp (think MG Head), and this is not it. It's a slightly warmish amp with lots of detail, polite character, and a touch of tube color. A very solid amp in it's own right, but not what the doctor ordered.

 However, it sounds exceptionally nice with the SR-003, so much so that I prefer the SR-003 cleanly out of the SRM-007t over the SR-404 on nearly all fronts, which did not happen with the SRM-313. The SRM-007t/SR-003 combo sounds for the most part like an HD650 with a very fast and airy amp. There is a very HD650-like coloration to the sound - that is, there is excessive upper bass and lower midrange in places where there really shouldn't be any, and instrument and vocal tone color is very much shifted toward the warm side. Like the HD650, the highs are recessed but what's there is very nice and very smooth, without any noticeable peaks anywhere from the middle/upper midrange and moving on up. 

 Unlike the HD650, however, this sound is _fast_. Transients are lightning quick, imaging is sharp, instrument separation is very good even though the soundstage is a bit small, and everything sounds very focused. With the HD650, I always had an excessively warm and, well, "stuffy" feeling, as if everything was there but was buried beneath an excess layer of upper bass and lower midrange. The sound was, for lack of a better term, fat. With the SR-003, the extra bass is there too, but it doesn't seem to slow the sound down. Instead, it sounds magically warm but still very quick on it's toes.

 And the midrange... the midrange is pure magic. It's everything that we love the SR-003 for, made much better by a much better amp. That lousy portable amp is no longer holding these headphones back, and it shows. Big time. This is much more of an improvement than I got with the SRM-313, which improved the dynamics of the SR-003 but didn't do that much for the detail.

 So, if you have one of these amps, and have been thinking of getting the SR-003 for whatever reason (altogether unlikely) try this combo out. It's about as neutral as our policy in the Middle East, but it sure does take the term "musical" to a whole new level.

 And for those that have the SR-003 and the SR-007, a question:

 I've heard that the two sound similar, and the SR-003 has been described as the baby SR-007. In a nutshell, what does the SR-007 sound like next to the SR-003 specifically? If the overall balance is the same and the tonal characteristics are similar, then it looks like I might like the SRM-007t/SR-007 combo quite a bit. I just hope that the O2 is not more laid back than the SR-003, since I don't especially like an excessively laid-back sound.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And for those that have the SR-003 and the SR-007, a question:

 I've heard that the two sound similar, and the SR-003 has been described as the baby SR-007. In a nutshell, what does the SR-007 sound like next to the SR-003 specifically? If the overall balance is the same and the tonal characteristics are similar, then it looks like I might like the SRM-007t/SR-007 combo quite a bit. I just hope that the SR-007 is not more laid back than the SR-003, since I don't especially like an excessively laid-back sound._

 

I've listened to both for quite a while tonight with the same music selection. The SR-007 has better extension on both ends and bass on the SR-007 is more visceral (edit: actually it's not just the bass either) but in other aspects there is a similarity in sound signature. The SR-003 has glorious midrange reproduction but I feel the SR-007 exceeds it in quality. That said, midrange on the SR-007 doesn't stand out to the same degree as it does on the SR-003. Despite this I wouldn't describe the SR-007 as more laid back, it's more that the other frequencies which get lost on the SR-003 are present on the SR-007. To me the headstage on the SR-003s extends out about 2 inches from each ear (much more than any IEM I've heard) but does not extend out in front of your face like the SR-007s can do. Overall the SR-007 has superior imaging, it can place sounds far more precisely. I think the SR-003 stands out as being faster on an initial glance, it really seems to scream "I'm so fast!" at times and I can't really put my finger on the reason, but when listening more analytically I think the SR-007 ultimately is actually the quicker of the two overall in a large part to it's greater dynamic resolution and ability to react to changes in dynamics. The SR-007 is just more understated about it all.

 In an attempt to summarise that and shape it into more of an answer to your question I'd say they are relatively similar in terms of their tonal characteristics but the strengths of the SR-003 stand out clearly in contrast with it's weakness. The SR-007 by comparison is a more balanced headphone such that you don't notice any individual aspect of the sound to the same degree, what you get is a cohesive picture presented through the lens of the SR-007's tonal template. Not everyone likes that presentation, but if you do like the SR-003 presentation then I do feel comfortable saying the SR-007 is similar and will sound pleasantly familiar but is still a lot better.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Keep this tone up, chaps, it's going to save me a fortune!


----------



## Downrange

The OIIs with 7t are definitely more "laid back" than the 003s. I really like the 7t with lambdas and the 003s, jury still out on the OIIs. They sound great, but can they sound better? Many say so, and I'm waiting on a new amp to try here.
 I really don't see that much comparison between the 003s and the OIIs, to be frank about it. Maybe a hint of the same mids, that's about all. But the openness and clarity of the OIIs mids, especially with well-miked vocals, is something the little earbuddies can't touch, honestly.


----------



## Socrates

What are the current options to utilise crossfeed with the 3030 or any stax for that matter. From some searching I see reference to the X-feed but it's out of production now. Is there anything else out there that will work. Has anyone used 2 channel or multi channel dolby headphone processing as an alternative and how did that work out. Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am interested but I think I am in the same boat with some others that don't feel comfortable blindly committing ourselves and our wallets to a product that we know nothing about._

 

I usually don't commit myself to a $1k product I know nothing about either.
 But in this case I have drawn the conclusion that I will take the risk, cause it seems like the only option to possibly get a portable full sized Stax system.

 Just look at the Aristaeus. I think the 12 buyers got money worth in design and build/sound quality.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The OIIs with 7t are definitely more "laid back" than the 003s. I really like the 7t with lambdas and the 003s, jury still out on the OIIs. They sound great, but can they sound better? Many say so, and I'm waiting on a new amp to try here.
 I really don't see that much comparison between the 003s and the OIIs, to be frank about it. Maybe a hint of the same mids, that's about all. But the openness and clarity of the OIIs mids, especially with well-miked vocals, is something the little earbuddies can't touch, honestly._

 

The less "laid back" sound I hear with the O2s may be due to my use of transformer boxes and may not translate to the 7t like you say. I agree that the O2s are outright better, I can't envisage anyone actually preferring the 003s. I do feel there are similarities in tonal presentation though which is where the whole "They're mini O2s" thing comes from.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The less "laid back" sound I hear with the O2s may be due to my use of transformer boxes and may not translate to the 7t like you say. I agree that the O2s are outright better, I can't envisage anyone actually preferring the 003s. I do feel there are similarities in tonal presentation though which is where the whole "They're mini O2s" thing comes from._

 

The 7t makes the O2's sound laid back because it doesn't have the balls to drive them.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Socrates* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are the current options to utilise crossfeed with the 3030 or any stax for that matter. From some searching I see reference to the X-feed but it's out of production now. Is there anything else out there that will work. Has anyone used 2 channel or multi channel dolby headphone processing as an alternative and how did that work out. Thanks._

 

I do own a standalone dolby headphone processor (Philips) and computer based DH.It's nice for movies but I wouldn't recommend it for serious music listening. Quote:


 What are the current options to utilise crossfeed with the 3030 or any stax for that matter.. 
 

In case you are a DIYer
 1)You could build a simplified Meier crossfeed yourself.It's quite easy and cheap, but not adjustable.Over at rockgrotto (a website maintained by former head-fi member PinkFloyd) you can learn about it
 2)you could build the original yourself.There's no secret involved.Jan has published the whole curcuit at his website and over at headwize.
 Preferably you'd utilize the original PCB.
 The costs of the original high quality parts or similar are quite high though.That's the reason why few members bothered to assemble their own Meier crossfeed since doing it yourself wasn't that much cheaper.
 I still have an original PCB and a predrilled faceplate of an original Cross-1 lying around here.PM me if you need it.What you'd additionally need are the parts, a cigar box, skills and time.
 3)Look for a used Cross-1.There are hundreds out there, and most of them are owned by head-fiers.I guess they are relatively easy to get, but probably not cheap due to the weak dollar nowadays and due to being discontinued.For a Cross-1 in very good condition you'd probably have to pay what it has costed new, and that's about $200 IIRC.Plus shipment, plus additional interconnects, it adds up.Bargain offers are always possible though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Socrates* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are the current options to utilise crossfeed with the 3030 or any stax for that matter. From some searching I see reference to the X-feed but it's out of production now. Is there anything else out there that will work. Has anyone used 2 channel or multi channel dolby headphone processing as an alternative and how did that work out. Thanks._

 

There are a number of older pre-amps with a "blend" control which is a pure crossfeed. I had a Crown preamp, but never cared much for the crossfeed.
 On the other hand the little JVC Dolby Headphone unit 

http://www.amazon.com/JVC-SUDH1-Surr.../dp/B000ETBZ5G

 works very well with my Stax 404 driven even from a small Stax SRDP amp, In fact it gives what I think is a fantastic presentation.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another random impressions rant:

 Listening to the SRM-007t some more, I feel that it's tonally still too cold for the SR-404. The 404 needs an excessively warm, lush, sappy, viscous sounding amp (think MG Head), and this is not it. It's a slightly warmish amp with lots of detail, polite character, and a touch of tube color. A very solid amp in it's own right, but not what the doctor ordered.

 However, it sounds exceptionally nice with the SR-003, so much so that I prefer the SR-003 cleanly out of the SRM-007t over the SR-404 on nearly all fronts, which did not happen with the SRM-313. The SRM-007t/SR-003 combo sounds for the most part like an HD650 with a very fast and airy amp. There is a very HD650-like coloration to the sound - that is, there is excessive upper bass and lower midrange in places where there really shouldn't be any, and instrument and vocal tone color is very much shifted toward the warm side. Like the HD650, the highs are recessed but what's there is very nice and very smooth, without any noticeable peaks anywhere from the middle/upper midrange and moving on up. 

 Unlike the HD650, however, this sound is fast. Transients are lightning quick, imaging is sharp, instrument separation is very good even though the soundstage is a bit small, and everything sounds very focused. With the HD650, I always had an excessively warm and, well, "stuffy" feeling, as if everything was there but was buried beneath an excess layer of upper bass and lower midrange. The sound was, for lack of a better term, fat. With the SR-003, the extra bass is there too, but it doesn't seem to slow the sound down. Instead, it sounds magically warm but still very quick on it's toes.

 And the midrange... the midrange is pure magic. It's everything that we love the SR-003 for, made much better by a much better amp. That lousy portable amp is no longer holding these headphones back, and it shows. Big time. This is much more of an improvement than I got with the SRM-313, which improved the dynamics of the SR-003 but didn't do that much for the detail.

 So, if you have one of these amps, and have been thinking of getting the SR-003 for whatever reason (altogether unlikely) try this combo out. It's about as neutral as our policy in the Middle East, but it sure does take the term "musical" to a whole new level.

 And for those that have the SR-003 and the SR-007, a question:

 I've heard that the two sound similar, and the SR-003 has been described as the baby SR-007. In a nutshell, what does the SR-007 sound like next to the SR-003 specifically? If the overall balance is the same and the tonal characteristics are similar, then it looks like I might like the SRM-007t/SR-007 combo quite a bit. I just hope that the O2 is not more laid back than the SR-003, since I don't especially like an excessively laid-back sound._

 

I am perfectly happy with my Stax 717 transistor amp driving the 404. It also does a fine job on the 003. I don't have a particularly negative impression of the Stax portable amp running the original 001 phones. Certainly the 717/003 is better but the portable is still pretty good. An upgraded interconnect can help the portable amp, I use a little Headroom cable. Also Silclear contact enhancer does great things. (I am sorry to keep raving about this but I am very happy with it.)


----------



## Socrates

3)Look for a used Cross-1.There are hundreds out there, and most of them are owned by head-fiers.I guess they are relatively easy to get, but probably not cheap due to the weak dollar nowadays and due to being discontinued.For a Cross-1 in very good condition you'd probably have to pay what it has costed new, and that's about $200 IIRC.Plus shipment, plus additional interconnects, it adds up.Bargain offers are always possible though.[/QUOTE]

 Thanks for the advice guys. Used will have to be the route as I am a DIY disaster. The other option is to wait for the long rumoured Yamaha YSV-1 processor which is supposed to improve significantly on Dolby Headphone.


----------



## xenithon

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I just came across this coverage of the High End Society Munich Germany High End 2007 Show, and at the bottom they have a photo of the prototype SR-007 MK. II.







 Too bad there is no further info though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this has been posted before, but I just came across this coverage of the High End Society Munich Germany High End 2007 Show, and at the bottom they have a photo of the prototype SR-007 MK. II.






 Too bad there is no further info though._

 

We've discussed this a bit before and they are supposed to be released in September. There are no details now but I know I'll get a set as soon as they are released. If it is a purely cosmetic change it won't matter because I've always wanted a second SR-007 to have around and this looks much better then the current BL model.


----------



## audiod

FYI I’ve been doing a lot of listening to some different Stax amps (SRM-1mkII Pro, SRM-007t, SRM-006t, SRM-717 and SRM-727II) on the Lambda Pro’s, 404 and O2. The SRM-1mkII Pro is the real steal of the bunch. It’s clean, dynamic, extended but musical. The presentation is neutral. It even drives the O2’s surprisingly well. No surprise it works extremely well with the Lambda Pro’s. The SRM-006t is just OK on the Lambda Pro’s and 404’s, but just is anemic on the O2’s. It also has a bit of a upper midrange bite that makes it a bad match on the newer Lambda’s. The bass is the worst of the bunch. The SRM-007t has a similar balance to the 006t with a little more refinement and guts. It’s bass is better but not that deep. It’s fine for the Lambda’s but not enough for really dynamic material on the O2’s. Loud passages are strained. The SRM-727II sounds similar to the 717 but is slightly softer in the treble. It has a laid back midrange and works well with the newer Lambda’s. The 727 sounds lifeless on the O2’s and never really opens up. The real winner is the SRM-717. It sounds fantastic on the O2’s. The soundstage is big and transparent. The midrange is a little laid back and works well with the Lambda’s. The highs are extended, clean but musical. The SRM-717 and the SRM-1mkII Pro are the only amps of the bunch that made the O2’s have a open and airy top end. The dynamics of the 717 are great without any strain or glare. IMO Stax’s 006t is a big disappointment and the 007t is great on the Lambda’s but does not have the guts for the O2. I also think that Stax tried too hard to make the new 727 sound like a tube amp. It’s sweet but is missing detail of the 007t. My 717 and SRM-1 are keepers!

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Great writeup and you are right about the 006t. I had one here with me for two weeks and the T1 is a much better amp in comparison, I don't know what Stax did to mess it up like this. The 006t was almost as bad as the 313 so I thought the unit that I had was a lemon but I'm glad I'm not alone. The T1 does have the same bass problems with the O2's but it's ok with the lighter loads although you can still notice it with the SR-Lambda. 

 I've never liked the 717 all that much and neither the SRM-1Mk2 but I'm a certified tube guy so that isn't surprising. What these amps have is power so if you can look past the slight haze and grain they will drive any electrostat except the O2's very well.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this has been posted before, but I just came across this coverage of the High End Society Munich Germany High End 2007 Show, and at the bottom they have a photo of the prototype SR-007 MK. II.






 Too bad there is no further info though._

 

We discussed the SR-007 mk2 two weeks ago, and I showed a close up picture in my post. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...89#post2966689

 Not much (if any) information about it yet.
 The only difference I see compared to the current SR-007BL are that the champagne colored chassis have been changed to a (brushed?) aluminum one.

 Remains to be seen if there are internal changes. Ex. new drivers, cables, etc...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never liked the 717 all that much and neither the SRM-1Mk2 but I'm a certified tube guy so that isn't surprising_

 

I'm a tube guy also. I love the SR-XIII/SRD-7 driven by a Marantz 8B (in triode) or a Dynaco ST-35. I liked the 007t on the O2's on less dynamic material, but when pushed it gets hard and congested, it's great on the Lambda's. It's too bad that Stax dosn't have a high output all tube amp to drive the O2's to their potential. They are leaving a hole being filled by the aftermarket. 

 I wonder if the rumered O3's will have a different tonal balance. Did anyone hear the prototype at the show?


----------



## edstrelow

I find the 717 good with the 404, Sigma pro, Sigma/404 and SR003. A bit of tweaking helps too.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if the rumered O3's will have a different tonal balance. Did anyone hear the prototype at the show?_

 

The "O3" is named SR-007 MK II by Stax so a major change in technology is unlikely.The "prototype" at the show was a driverless display model.
 From my point of view the tonal balance is just perfect anyway .........


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's too bad that Stax dosn't have a high output all tube amp to drive the O2's to their potential. They are leaving a hole being filled by the aftermarket._

 

Ditto!
 Stax _really_ lack an SRM-T2 successor. I know I would buy one...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm a tube guy also. I love the SR-XIII/SRD-7 driven by a Marantz 8B (in triode) or a Dynaco ST-35. I liked the 007t on the O2's on less dynamic material, but when pushed it gets hard and congested, it's great on the Lambda's. It's too bad that Stax dosn't have a high output all tube amp to drive the O2's to their potential. They are leaving a hole being filled by the aftermarket. 

 I wonder if the rumered O3's will have a different tonal balance. Did anyone hear the prototype at the show?_

 

The SR-007 needs a lot of voltage to wake up but all of this voltage is expensive so Stax has to compromise. What we really need is a DHT based amp with a dual mono tube rectified power supply. That's my next project after rebuilding the Blue Hawaii. 

 I'll buy the Mk2 when it is released and compare them but I doubt that there is much difference in the sound. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto!
 Stax really lack an SRM-T2 successor. I know I would buy one...




_

 

Though I have little doubt a Blue Hawaii can beat it I still want one


----------



## ironbut

So, I've looked and looked but I still haven't seen anything about this amp. Has anyone actually seen one let alone heard one? http://www.dddac.de/tp08.htm


----------



## faberwatson

Hi all- Just moved this post over from the amps forum. Malo filled me in on using all 4 connections... I tried plugging bare wires into the back (from my amp's corresponding outputs) and got no sound - I did not have the headphone-jack connector plugged in to anything at the time.

 ********

 Yesterday I had the good (incredible? ridiculous?) fortune to stumble across a minature-yard sale on my walk home. There was a small folding table piled high with various antiquated electronics - an answering machine ("Digital!" was its selling point), a video camera that must have weighed 35 pounds... and a SR-X MkIII/ SRD-7 combo. You don't even want to know how little it cost me to take these beauties home. (Seriously.) 

 Everything is in perfect working order, at least as far as I can tell by plugging the hardwired headphone cable into the headphone-out jack on my NAD C320BEE integrated. I have zero 'stat headphone experience (do have a pair of Maggies in the living room, though) and I wanted to seek wiring guidance before I go plugging speaker wires into the SRD-7 willy-nilly. Could someone who owns this setup kindly direct me as to what goes where? 

 There are 4 holes in the back (+ and - for both R and L); they have little screws in there now that can be removed. What kind of terminations are these made for? Do I use all 4, or are 2 meant for the speaker pass-through function (which I don't intend to use)? The label on the back says Red R+, Black R-, White L+, Green L-. 

 Please assume no prior knowledge because (aside from searching the forum history regarding this issue) I have none. Thanks for the help, folks.


----------



## catscratch

The 007t's inability to drive the O2 is not what I wanted to hear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But thanks for the impressions, I'm sure they will end up saving me quite a bit of money in the long run.

 I'm a tube man as well; solid state just sounds flat and lifeless in terms of tone and tembre, no matter how open, impactful, and extended it can be. I really don't see myself going for the SRM-717 simply because if I am to build a high end system that I really enjoy, it will most likely have to be tube.

 I wonder if the McAlister amp is up to spec, but seeing how limited its output is, I somehow doubt it. It has a brighter tonality that would (I think) be well matched to the O2, however, and it does sound very dynamic and impactful with the 404. It just needs to be, well, fixed.

 I wish there was some way of building a good system around the O2 on my budget ($1500 for a used O2 and $1200-ish for amp, maybe a bit more), but it looks like solid-state is my only choice, and I don't want that. I don't like the 404 anymore, so I'm really not sure what's next here. Maybe the K1000 with a tube speaker amp? Modded K340 with tubes? I guess I could get an O2/KGSS combo and get a tubed source, but it would have to be something that's not too expensive and has a lot of tube character.

 Back to the drawing board... Bummer


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm a tube man as well; solid state just sounds flat and lifeless in terms of tone and tembre, no matter how open, impactful, and extended it can be. I really don't see myself going for the SRM-717 simply because if I am to build a high end system that I really enjoy, it will most likely have to be tube.(_

 

You must remember that all the critical front end circuitry of the SRM-006t & 007t is solid state. Just the output stage is tube. Stax does not currently make a all tube amp. I do not know why Stax doesn’t use tubes in the front end. A tube front end with a KGSS high voltage output stage would be interesting. A solid state output stage will almost always have a lower impedance output and better to drive the difficult capacitive load of the O2's.


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *faberwatson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all- Just moved this post over from the amps forum. Malo filled me in on using all 4 connections... I tried plugging bare wires into the back (from my amp's corresponding outputs) and got no sound - I did not have the headphone-jack connector plugged in to anything at the time._

 

I am a little confused by what exactly you mean by that headphone-jack connector. The SRD-7 is supposed to have a long cable terminating with 4 bare wires, 4 lug speaker connectors on the back of the box, and a power cable. It sounds like your SRD-7 might have been modified somehow. If you got no sound when you wired the 4 bare wires into the output on your power amp, then perhaps that input has been wired into that headphone connector?

 Happy Listening!


----------



## faberwatson

Uh-oh, I _was_ beginning to think the descriptions I read didn't quite jive with what was in front of me... Here are some hastily snapped pics; note the last one - definitely the desklamp-style power cord + a cable terminated in 1/4" headphone plug. Anybody know anything about this?


----------



## Fitz

Somebody stuck that 1/4" connector on there for whatever reason. Take it off and you'll have ordinary 4-conductor speaker cable that can be hooked up to your amp. The four terminals on the back of the adapter are for connecting your speakers to, so you can have both hooked up and use the switch on the front to change between them. I personally just use the A and B outputs on my amp rather than looping through the SRD-7.


----------



## faberwatson

Ha, thanks Fitz. Going for the trusty wire-snippers, will let you know how things turn out.

 Update:Blissssssss 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 The RS-1s will no longer sleep alone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for all the help - and a happily simple solution to boot


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You must remember that all the critical front end circuitry of the SRM-006t & 007t is solid state. Just the output stage is tube. Stax does not currently make a all tube amp. I do not know why Stax doesn’t use tubes in the front end. A tube front end with a KGSS high voltage output stage would be interesting. A solid state output stage will almost always have a lower impedance output and better to drive the difficult capacitive load of the O2's._

 

Yes, I was forgetting that the 007t is a hybrid. Sonically, what I need is tube flavor at some point in the signal path. I guess that the O2/KGSS is my best in terms of price/performance, and a CD player with a tube output stage is what will really make the system sing.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I was forgetting that the 007t is a hybrid. Sonically, what I need is tube flavor at some point in the signal path. I guess that the O2/KGSS is my best in terms of price/performance, and a CD player with a tube output stage is what will really make the system sing._

 

The Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 tube buffer does a nice job. I've stayed away from the KGSS because some Head-Fi members describe the sound as clean but forward with a SS character. The Woo Audio GES looked like a great deal but I don't hear any raves driving the O2's (not enough drive).

 Don't get me wrong, the 007t is a very nice sounding unit and may be just fine for you. It's faults are only when pushing it hard. I would try to find a dealer to listen to a 007t and someone with a KGSS to compare.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 tube buffer does a nice job. I've stayed away from the KGSS because some Head-Fi members describe the sound as clean but forward with a SS character. The Woo Audio GES looked like a great deal but I don't hear any raves driving the O2's (not enough drive).

 Don't get me wrong, the 007t is a very nice sounding unit and may be just fine for you. It's faults are only when pushing it hard. I would try to find a dealer to listen to a 007t and someone with a KGSS to compare._

 

I actually have an X10 lying around. The reason why it's lying around and is not in my signal path is that it actually degrades the sound quality compared to my source's direct output. It does inject tube character, but it does so at the cost of detail and instrument separation. I guess this is a testament to how good the cheapish Rega really is.

 In any case, between the 007t, Woo, and KGSS it does look like I have some choices. Ah yes, such a tough, painful process comparing $1k amplifiers is... I don't know how I'll manage the next few months


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 007t's inability to drive the O2 is not what I wanted to hear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But thanks for the impressions, I'm sure they will end up saving me quite a bit of money in the long run.

 ...

 I wish there was some way of building a good system around the O2 on my budget ($1500 for a used O2 and $1200-ish for amp, maybe a bit more), but it looks like solid-state is my only choice, and I don't want that. I don't like the 404 anymore, so I'm really not sure what's next here. Maybe the K1000 with a tube speaker amp? Modded K340 with tubes? I guess I could get an O2/KGSS combo and get a tubed source, but it would have to be something that's not too expensive and has a lot of tube character.

 Back to the drawing board... Bummer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I got the new 7tII with my O2s, in spite of hearing the constant negative litany about it on here. Call me stubborn, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , but I just couldn't believe that Stax would put this out as their flagship 'phones and amp, and that the pair then wouldn't match decently with each other. My experience, to date, is that the O2s with 7tII sounds simply fantastic. Can the pairing with other amps work better? Based on comments here, I'm almost positive it can, but won't know until I try it (soon, soon). 

 What I can say is that just putting more voltage swing on the O2s doesn't make them sound better. I tried the SRD-7 Pro adapter box with various amps, up to and including a Perreaux that can generate well over 1000V of swing with the box. All were clearly much worse than the 7tII (not even close), losing most of the "air" and sense of aural spaciousness the 7tII gives the O2s. When my new KGSS arrives (any day now), I'll finally have the opportunity to see how much difference a great SS amp makes in terms of "waking up" the O2s. Mind you, I'm not entirely convinced yet they need all that much waking up. A lot of the complaints in this area seem to me to be related to people needing to wean themselves from expectations about sound they have built from using overly-forward 'phones, like the Lambdas and others. I suspect there will be some trade-offs between each amp, and, based on reviews from others, maybe the KGSS will win out. At any rate, I am really looking forward to finding out for myself. Should the Stax amp win, I have no doubts the KGSS can be sold - they are scarcer than hen's teeth.

 Either way, I don't regret getting the 7tII. They sound great with the O2s, and also give a small improvement to the Lambdas (over the SS Stax amp). If it turns out the KGSS is better with the O2s, I'll just move the 7tII upstairs for nightstand duty, or possibly sell it at a small loss. You gotta pay to play. It should also be mentioned the new 7tII has a few admittedly small upgrades(adjusting "circuit constants" for wider bandwidth, better S/N ratio through using new DC supply circuit on tube filaments, beefier main power supply, and improved input switching that switches ground side too). Small things, but they could add up. (None would affect voltage swing much, though.)

 As far as other tube options for the O2s, talking with Justin at Headamp the other day, I learned he would not be making any more Blue Hawaiis (standard versions)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . Marketing them is just not cost-effective; you can maybe still get one of the 4500 dollar souped-up BH models, but not the basic one, which was probably my next move, if the KGSS doesn't do it for me. 

 This is an expensive hobby, no doubt!


----------



## Snacks

Downrange, I cannot wait to here your impressions about the KGSS; I waited a good while for mine...it is worth it! It's the only electrostatic amp I've ever known, but to me it does a great job with the O2's and even moreso with the 4070's. Out of the box I'm lovin the 4070/KGSS combo more than the O2's, but the O2's are starting to show their strengths. 

 I keep switching back and forth from dynamic to electrostat to electrostat to electrostat. (Is the later good, or do you have to wait a while before going back and forth? I have a KGSS, which only has one socket and I've been waiting 30 mins, because I'm not certain about under-charging and all.) The electrostatics have so much more information being displayed, the depth is scary unreal, makes you want to keep listening, which is what I've been doing for the last (2) days. Coming from the strictly dynamic camp, I don't see myself going back...ever! But, I will keep a pair or two around for trips and giggles. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As far as other tube options for the O2s, talking with Justin at Headamp the other day, I learned he would not be making any more Blue Hawaiis (standard versions)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . Marketing them is just not cost-effective; you can maybe still get one of the 4500 dollar souped-up BH models, but not the basic one, which was probably my next move, if the KGSS doesn't do it for me. 

 This is an expensive hobby, no doubt! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Bummer; base BH (w/minor upgrades) would've been my next step!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 007t's inability to drive the O2 is not what I wanted to hear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But thanks for the impressions, I'm sure they will end up saving me quite a bit of money in the long run.

 I'm a tube man as well; solid state just sounds flat and lifeless in terms of tone and tembre, no matter how open, impactful, and extended it can be. I really don't see myself going for the SRM-717 simply because if I am to build a high end system that I really enjoy, it will most likely have to be tube.

 I wonder if the McAlister amp is up to spec, but seeing how limited its output is, I somehow doubt it. It has a brighter tonality that would (I think) be well matched to the O2, however, and it does sound very dynamic and impactful with the 404. It just needs to be, well, fixed.

 I wish there was some way of building a good system around the O2 on my budget ($1500 for a used O2 and $1200-ish for amp, maybe a bit more), but it looks like solid-state is my only choice, and I don't want that. I don't like the 404 anymore, so I'm really not sure what's next here. Maybe the K1000 with a tube speaker amp? Modded K340 with tubes? I guess I could get an O2/KGSS combo and get a tubed source, but it would have to be something that's not too expensive and has a lot of tube character.

 Back to the drawing board... Bummer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You don't have a lot of options in this price range unless you can find a used Blue Hawaii or just build one. It is also a hybrid amp like the 006t/007t/T2 but it sounds very liquid and smooth. 

 You could live happily with the 007t but it will only give you a hint at what the phones are really capable off. The Lambdas are even limited by it but it isn't nearly as noticeable. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got the new 7tII with my O2s, in spite of hearing the constant negative litany about it on here. Call me stubborn, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , but I just couldn't believe that Stax would put this out as their flagship 'phones and amp, and that the pair then wouldn't match decently with each other. My experience, to date, is that the O2s with 7tII sounds simply fantastic. Can the pairing with other amps work better? Based on comments here, I'm almost positive it can, but won't know until I try it (soon, soon). 

 What I can say is that just putting more voltage swing on the O2s doesn't make them sound better. I tried the SRD-7 Pro adapter box with various amps, up to and including a Perreaux that can generate well over 1000V of swing with the box. All were clearly much worse than the 7tII (not even close), losing most of the "air" and sense of aural spaciousness the 7tII gives the O2s. When my new KGSS arrives (any day now), I'll finally have the opportunity to see how much difference a great SS amp makes in terms of "waking up" the O2s. Mind you, I'm not entirely convinced yet they need all that much waking up. A lot of the complaints in this area seem to me to be related to people needing to wean themselves from expectations about sound they have built from using overly-forward 'phones, like the Lambdas and others. I suspect there will be some trade-offs between each amp, and, based on reviews from others, maybe the KGSS will win out. At any rate, I am really looking forward to finding out for myself. Should the Stax amp win, I have no doubts the KGSS can be sold - they are scarcer than hen's teeth.

 Either way, I don't regret getting the 7tII. They sound great with the O2s, and also give a small improvement to the Lambdas (over the SS Stax amp). If it turns out the KGSS is better with the O2s, I'll just move the 7tII upstairs for nightstand duty, or possibly sell it at a small loss. You gotta pay to play. It should also be mentioned the new 7tII has a few admittedly small upgrades(adjusting "circuit constants" for wider bandwidth, better S/N ratio through using new DC supply circuit on tube filaments, beefier main power supply, and improved input switching that switches ground side too). Small things, but they could add up. (None would affect voltage swing much, though.)

 As far as other tube options for the O2s, talking with Justin at Headamp the other day, I learned he would not be making any more Blue Hawaiis (standard versions)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . Marketing them is just not cost-effective; you can maybe still get one of the 4500 dollar souped-up BH models, but not the basic one, which was probably my next move, if the KGSS doesn't do it for me. 

 This is an expensive hobby, no doubt! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Go for the BH Special Edition, you know you want to! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to spend about the same just in parts upgrading mine so it is a very good amp.

 The KGSS is more powerful but I find it to be cold and sterile so you might prefer the 007tII. I really like the T1 and it is my main listening amp but I would never use the SR-007 with it. The bass is just too horrible. 

 Comparing the voltage swing of a transformer to an OTL amp isn't really a fair comparison. The transformers are cheap and nasty so an OTL will always sound much better. This isn't just about the voltage swing but also about the standing power of the amp and how much it can deliver. The BH draws nearly 200w and all those transistors produce a lot of grunt to feed the tubes.


----------



## ironbut

I did alot of listening to the O2 at Headfest 2007. I don't own a pair (yet!) so I certainly won't pretend to know how much better it could sound. I listened to them with the 007tll, the 727, and briefly with the GES. I really enjoyed the sound from the 007tll much more than the 727. Maybe the 727 had more impact but I just didn't enjoy the sound as much. The GES seemed to have a bit more clarity but, like I said, it was very brief so I wouldn't say I'm sure of that. Knowing me, I'm sure I'll have to hear a BH to know what the difference is and that probably means building one. What are the sonic differences that you hear with the BH over other tube amps with the O2?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did alot of listening to the O2 at Headfest 2007. I don't own a pair (yet!) so I certainly won't pretend to know how much better it could sound. I listened to them with the 007tll, the 727, and briefly with the GES. I really enjoyed the sound from the 007tll much more than the 727. Maybe the 727 had more impact but I just didn't enjoy the sound as much. The GES seemed to have a bit more clarity but, like I said, it was very brief so I wouldn't say I'm sure of that. Knowing me, I'm sure I'll have to hear a BH to know what the difference is and that probably means building one. What are the sonic differences that you hear with the BH over other tube amps with the O2?_

 

Well the BH is vastly more powerful and with that power it brings more clarity, faster sound all over the board, better bass extension and control and it is much more liquid and musical. With the right cables and source it removes the O2's tendency to sound dark at the top and makes them extend forever with excelent detail. In short it provides them a platform to really show off their abilities but it still holds them back a bit. I'm going to completely rebuild mine because while it is upgraded from stock it is compromised in some areas and I suspect that the new version will be the same. I hope that the rebuild and a new power supply will tide me over until I've designed and built the replacement and that will be one hell of an amp.


----------



## jigster

Wonder when the new BH will be available.... any ideas? Price range?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wonder when the new BH will be available.... any ideas? Price range?_

 

Sometime this year and I was qouted a price of around $3500.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sometime this year and I was qouted a price of around $3500._

 

Last I heard the price was 4500$ and there are no upgrades available.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Last I heard the price was 4500$ and there are no upgrades available._

 


 Yes, pretty sure that's what Justin said - believe it comes with all the upgrades, hence the higher price.

 I'm tempted, but that's just a lot of dough.


----------



## derekbmn

I was qouted the price on March 24th. I don't doubt that he has raised the price since then. Maybe someone should shoot him a email and double check. I would but i'm on my way out the door to work.


----------



## spritzer

I got the price form a third party that was asking me for advise on amps but it should be very recent. It's about 1k$ more then I paid for my BH some 3 years ago and both are similarly spec'd so it isn't a bad deal considering the nicer case. While I don't agree with some aspects of Justin's build techniques the amps are very well built, thought through and go through proper quality control unlike a certain other unnamed manufacturer.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ It's about 1k$ more then I paid for my BH some 3 years ago and both are similarly spec'd so it isn't a bad deal considering the nicer case._

 

Welcome to the stratosphere where $1000 for a nicer case is considered to be reasonable.O.K., 700, the rest is due to inflation but still .......
 I guess you just lost some of us.
 Oh wait, at least the exchange rate is on our european side.There's hope.
 A successful concerted summer offense of the taliban and the ghouls in Iraq could cause a free fall of the dollar and I might be able to afford a BH .........


----------



## ironbut

The closer I get to buying myself a pair of O2's and the more I look into a proper amp for it, the more it blows my mind that there is really No current production amp designed expressly to drive it! I realize that they aren't exactly selling like hot cakes but with such a long product life, there must be quite a few out there. I'm sure that most are plugged into 007t or 717's and their owners are perfectly happy with that set up. I have to wonder if the amp designers know something that we don't? I think it was about a year ago when K Gilmore said something about a new " king of the hill" coming which I'm sure must be the O3. And if it were only cosmetic changes, I don't think he would have said that. Of course, there's a lot of "ifs" going on here, but "if" they did nothing more than make it easier to drive, it would improve the sound in 99.9% of the systems it would be in. That's kinda what I'm hoping for. When I listened to them at Headfest, for my tastes, it was the best sounding cans I'd ever heard by a pretty good margin. I thought the he90's were a little too eager to please!


----------



## justin w.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wonder when the new BH will be available.... any ideas? Price range?_

 

As of right now it's looking like late this summer. The estimated price is $4500. I have the circuit boards, and the chassis is partially done, and I sent out some pictures of the current progress to those that have asked about it


----------



## ferrstein

Sorry for changing the subject, but I have a question for those of you that have both Lambda and Lambda Pro speakers. I hear some folks saying the original Lambdas are a bit more laid back and natural sounding. I've never heard a pair... I have to pro models myself.

 Anyway, after listening to my Sigmas for a while, I plugged my lambda Pros in and thought they sounded better than usual. I found out later that I had plugged them into the normal bias socket. So... have any of you guys tried that with your Lambda Pro's? Can anyone make the comparison between a Lambda Pro at normal bias and an original Lambda at normal bias?

 I'm just wondering if this makes the pro sound somewhat like a Lambda... and I'm trying to decide if I'll track down a set of Lambdas or not. 

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to the stratosphere where $1000 for a nicer case is considered to be reasonable.O.K., 700, the rest is due to inflation but still .......
 I guess you just lost some of us.
 Oh wait, at least the exchange rate is on our european side.There's hope.
 A successful concerted summer offense of the taliban and the ghouls in Iraq could cause a free fall of the dollar and I might be able to afford a BH ........._

 

I'm happy with a case made out of copper sheets with a plain aluminum front panel but each to his own. A low volume special order case is never cheap so I can see why Justin raised the price. He's in this to make money as is anybody who owns a company. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The closer I get to buying myself a pair of O2's and the more I look into a proper amp for it, the more it blows my mind that there is really No current production amp designed expressly to drive it! I realize that they aren't exactly selling like hot cakes but with such a long product life, there must be quite a few out there. I'm sure that most are plugged into 007t or 717's and their owners are perfectly happy with that set up. I have to wonder if the amp designers know something that we don't? I think it was about a year ago when K Gilmore said something about a new " king of the hill" coming which I'm sure must be the O3. And if it were only cosmetic changes, I don't think he would have said that. Of course, there's a lot of "ifs" going on here, but "if" they did nothing more than make it easier to drive, it would improve the sound in 99.9% of the systems it would be in. That's kinda what I'm hoping for. When I listened to them at Headfest, for my tastes, it was the best sounding cans I'd ever heard by a pretty good margin. I thought the he90's were a little too eager to please!_

 

Building the ultimate amp for the O2's isn't an easy task with very high B+ voltages and large tubes that need a lot of power. They are also neutrality junkies and that isn't cheap and there aren't many people around that think spending 10k$ just in parts for a headphone amp is sane. 

 The He90 isn't a contender for best headphone in my book. They are among the best but fail too many things to be considered top tier. They are very eager to please and shock people into liking them but this rubs off after a while. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for changing the subject, but I have a question for those of you that have both Lambda and Lambda Pro speakers. I hear some folks saying the original Lambdas are a bit more laid back and natural sounding. I've never heard a pair... I have to pro models myself.

 Anyway, after listening to my Sigmas for a while, I plugged my lambda Pros in and thought they sounded better than usual. I found out later that I had plugged them into the normal bias socket. So... have any of you guys tried that with your Lambda Pro's? Can anyone make the comparison between a Lambda Pro at normal bias and an original Lambda at normal bias?

 I'm just wondering if this makes the pro sound somewhat like a Lambda... and I'm trying to decide if I'll track down a set of Lambdas or not. 

 Thanks in advance!_

 

I just tried it and while the PRO's are softer they don't sound like the Lambdas. The horribly recessed midrange and disjointed bass is still there. The upper midrange etch is mostly gone but that always happens when you lower the bias. I can't stand how colored the Pro's are and the normal bias phones are much more natural and easy going so I would buy one if you can get it cheap.


----------



## edstrelow

I am curious as to why people think the Omega II is harder to drive than any other electrostatic. Is it that they are inefficient and need a big amp. Surely they are no less efficient than the Sigma pros?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am curious as to why people think the Omega II is harder to drive than any other electrostatic. Is it that they are inefficient and need a big amp. Surely they are no less efficient than the Sigma pros?_

 

They are much harder to drive then the Sigma Pro's. It's been discussed a lot but basically its because of the extra spacing due to the PCB stators. The stators are coated with copper and then gold plated and can only conduct electricity at the side facing away from the diaphragm so the thickness of the PCB material adds to the diaphragm/stator spacing making them harder to drive.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are much harder to drive then the Sigma Pro's. It's been discussed a lot but basically its because of the extra spacing due to the PCB stators. The stators are coated with copper and then gold plated and can only conduct electricity at the side facing away from the diaphragm so the thickness of the PCB material adds to the diaphragm/stator spacing making them harder to drive._

 

Kind of makes you not want to buy one (of course I haven't anyway.) The Omega I didn't have this type of construction, wasn't it more a wire mesh stator?

 It sounds like Stax could well be coming up with a revision of the stator design in the new Omega.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kind of makes you not want to buy one (of course I haven't anyway.) The Omega I didn't have this type of construction, wasn't it more a wire mesh stator?

 It sounds like Stax could well be coming up with a revision of the stator design in the new Omega._

 

If you don't want the best sound possible through headphones then stay away but they are so much better then any other headphone I've heard it isn't funny. This doesn't come easy and they are a tough nut to crack but give them what they want and they will deliver in spades. 

 The Omega 1 used wire mesh stators but they were the a boat load of trouble from the start and are the main reason why the drivers fail. The problem was the enormous (well for a headphone) size of the driver and controlling the mesh over the large surface area. The O1's driver has nothing in common with the SR-007 but the newer driver can be retrofitted into the O1 at a huge expense. 

 I would be very happy to see a new stator design in the Mk2 but I'm not too hopeful. A change in material choice is a real possibility and could make them easier to drive and better sounding.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Help, please console me: I got an email from eBay this morning, containing a favourite search for Stax, and in it was this...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ADME:B:SS:UK:1

 I feel sick that I missed this, it's exactly what I've been dreaming of, especially with all the recent stuff about amps for the Omegas...

 How can somebody list something like this for such a ridiculous price (and I could have driven to pick it up!)?

 Aaaaaaaargh!

 (The only slight consolation in my not getting it is that my marriage might last just a little bit longer... )


----------



## krmathis

Johnny Blue. Yeah, it seems like you missed a great deal there.
 A pair of the black Omega II and SRM-0717 (both unused) for £1,250.00 is a very good deal.

 Oh well! Too bad you missed it.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnny Blue. Yeah, it seems like you missed a great deal there.
 A pair of the black Omega II and SRM-0717 (both unused) for £1,250.00 is a very good deal.

 Oh well! Too bad you missed it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

A few months back a dealer here in the UK had an Omega II and SRM-717 on eBay for £1,500 buy-it-now, but somebody bid on it, the B-I-N disappeared, and it went for £1,660 in the end!

 Ever since then, I've had a target price of £1,500 for such a system, but to see it for £1,250 and brand new/unused, and with the stand...

 As I said:

 Aaaaaaaaaargh!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am curious as to why people think the Omega II is harder to drive than any other electrostatic. Is it that they are inefficient and need a big amp. Surely they are no less efficient than the Sigma pros?_

 

It's to do with the stator-diaphragm spacing, the fact that PCB stators are one sided (the copper is on the far side from the diaphragm), and the dielectric properties of the materials it's constructed out of. It needs juice the way an old American big block V8 does, it's not an efficient engine even by the low standards of electrostatics.

 While there's nothing inherantly wrong with that, good sounding power is expensive and it means the on-road cost of the O2 isn't as cheap as might first appear.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...While there's nothing inherantly wrong with that, good sounding power is expensive and it means the on-road cost of the O2 isn't as cheap as might first appear._

 

Keep it up, Carl, this is what I need to read to get over my missing the OIIs/717 on eBay I mentioned earlier...

 Yeah, it'd have been a complete waste of my money, I'd have to spend at least another £2k on a decent amp, right? Right? Please... !

 (Why aren't there any emoticons of sobbing?)


----------



## Downrange

Instead of buying a set of O2s, just stuff handfuls of hundred dollar bills into a black shoe box and burn them in your stove. They're a curse, I tell you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (said I, after pursuing their holy grail-like sound and already buying two perfectly good 1.5 kilobuck amplifiers, the end of said sojourn still not in sight.)

 Seriously, the 717 combo would have just whetted your appetite for better sound from them (dry sounding, from what I've heard.)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Keep it up, Carl, this is what I need to read to get over my missing the OIIs/717 on eBay I mentioned earlier...

 Yeah, it'd have been a complete waste of my money, I'd have to spend at least another £2k on a decent amp, right? Right? Please... !_

 

Only if you want to extract the O2's full potential. It's hardly like it's a minnow when underamped.

  Quote:


 (Why aren't there any emoticons of sobbing?) 
 

Ask and ye shall receive.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seriously, the 717 combo would have just whetted your appetite for better sound from them (dry sounding, from what I've heard.)_

 


 I get wonderful sound with the 717 and O2's. You must let it warm up for 30 minutes. I like it better than my 007t. The 007t sounds great on my low bias Lambda's, Lambda Pro's and SR-XIII's.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get wonderful sound with the 717 and O2's. You must let it warm up for 30 minutes. I like it better than my 007t. The 007t sounds great on my low bias Lambda's, Lambda Pro's and SR-XIII's._

 

Glad they're working for you! I haven't heard them with O2s yet, but they're pretty robust, from what I've heard.

 By the way, I had the top off the 7tII today and noticed the tubes are 8FQ7. Probably a change made when they modified the heater/filament circuit for DC supply. Supposedly, the 8s are different in the shape of the plates, too. They're GE, and have no idea of their reputation, but, again, I love the sound of the amp.

 Anyone want the set of new Raytheons (6FQ7) I bought to tube swap? I'll sell at my cost.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, I had the top off the 7tII today and noticed the tubes are 8FQ7. Probably a change made when they modified the heater/filament circuit for DC supply. Supposedly, the 8s are different in the shape of the plates, too. They're GE, and have no idea of their reputation, but, again, I love the sound of the amp._

 

Is the heater supply in there alright with that? 8.4V/450mA is pretty different from 6.3V/600mA.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Instead of buying a set of O2s, just stuff handfuls of hundred dollar bills into a black shoe box and burn them in your stove. They're a curse, I tell you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (said I, after pursuing their holy grail-like sound and already buying two perfectly good 1.5 kilobuck amplifiers, the end of said sojourn still not in sight.)

 Seriously, the 717 combo would have just whetted your appetite for better sound from them (dry sounding, from what I've heard.)_

 

Yes, yes, yes, Downrange, this is what I wanted to hear (read!)...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...
 Ask and ye shall receive.










_

 

There IS a Stax God after all (and there was me, thinking it was spritzer... ).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the heater supply in there alright with that? 8.4V/450mA is pretty different from 6.3V/600mA._

 

I haven't read anywhere that Stax changed the tubes, even Stax says they use the 6CG7. They might have changed it in a later revision but why not use a better tube if you are going to change it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There IS a Stax God after all (and there was me, thinking it was spritzer... ).
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nope I'm not God. I'm just an insane headphone collector that just snagged a SR-X Mk*2*


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the heater supply in there alright with that? 8.4V/450mA is pretty different from 6.3V/600mA._

 

Carl, best I can figure is that's the heater PS difference Stax is referring to in the 7tII brochure which says: "The heater power source for the vacuum tube makes use of a power circuit of the DC ignition type using an electrolytic capacitor and a high-speed Schotky barrier diode, bringing further improvements in the S/N ratio." 
 They also said they beefed up the main power supply (transformer is larger and it uses beefier capacitors). I took lots of pictures while inside today and am planning to put all this in the shoot-out review I'll post up when the KGSS gets here. No one has really done a detailed test on the new 7tII, as far I've been able to find, so I'll jump in.
 Doesn't look like basic design (four dual triodes) changes, so not sure what they gain soundwise by going to the 8FQ7's, if anything.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get wonderful sound with the 717 and O2's. You must let it warm up for 30 minutes. I like it better than my 007t. The 007t sounds great on my low bias Lambda's, Lambda Pro's and SR-XIII's._

 

That it also my experience. The best amp Stax has made since I started with my first Staxes in 1983. The 717 is very neutral and the question of dry or wet
 character is up to the source component and the recording technique.

 Combined with the 02´s the resulting reproduction can be compared to what you get from active ATC speakers.

 Tom


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There IS a Stax God after all (and there was me, thinking it was spritzer... ).
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He's just being coy, he knows he is.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, best I can figure is that's the heater PS difference Stax is referring to in the 7tII brochure which says: "The heater power source for the vacuum tube makes use of a power circuit of the DC ignition type using an electrolytic capacitor and a high-speed Schotky barrier diode, bringing further improvements in the S/N ratio."_

 

That's talking about the filtering used on the heater surply (a Schotky bridge for rectification followed by an RC filter). What I want to know is if the heater surply can handle putting a tube with completely different heater requirements in there without choking. Not all tube gear can.

  Quote:


 Doesn't look like basic design (four dual triodes) changes, so not sure what they gain soundwise by going to the 8FQ7's, if anything. 
 

There is no electrical difference between the two besides a different voltage/current mix for the heater (although there could conceiveably be construction
 differences that affect the sound).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That it also my experience. The best amp Stax has made since I started with my first Staxes in 1983._

 

I dunno... SRM-T2? SRA-14S?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no electrical difference between the two besides a different voltage/current mix for the heater (although there could conceiveably be construction
 differences that affect the sound)._

 

Stax could have bought a large supply of NOS tubes for less then they buy new 6CG7's now. There isn't any other good explanation for doing this. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dunno... SRM-T2? SRA-14S?_

 

The 14S is basically a SRM-1 in a bigger chassis so the T2 gets the honors.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 14S is basically a SRM-1 in a bigger chassis so the T2 gets the honors._

 

It also has a completely different power supply (big transformer, super-shunt regulation, lots of capacitance, etc). The point was that the 717 ain't the best amp Stax has made since 1983.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It also has a completely different power supply (big transformer, super-shunt regulation, lots of capacitance, etc). The point was that the 717 ain't the best amp Stax has made since 1983._

 

Yeah I forgot about the external PSU, my bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 That PSU must make a big difference.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That PSU must make a big difference._

 

Considering how poorly the PSU's in Stax's recent stuff stacks up to the beasts they had in the company's heyday (take the DMA-X1) I would expect a big step up.

 Sometimes I miss old Stax.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Considering how poorly the PSU's in Stax's recent stuff stacks up to the beasts they had in the company's heyday (take the DMA-X1) I would expect a big step up._

 

The PSU's are an often overlooked part. I've been debating with my self what to do with my Blue Hawaii because it is pretty simple to put a socket for an umbilical on the back and use an external PSU. The problem is whether to use the current design in a dual mono configuration and thus double the power or use something more elaborate. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sometimes I miss old Stax._

 

I miss old Stax quite a bit but they were more like artists then business men so the company could never survive. New Stax is much better managed so it has the resources to do some extensive engineering and survive in the long run. No strange and bizzare ideas that weren't fully thought through and no more grand leaps of faith like the T2


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax could have bought a large supply of NOS tubes for less then they buy new 6CG7's now. There isn't any other good explanation for doing this. ._

 

Good possibility. I was surprised to see the 8V filament tubes in there. I may measure pin voltages later if I get time to see if they changed the filament supply voltage from 6-8V. I may also call Yamas and see if they know what's up with the change. If they changed the supply, that will mean you really can't tube swap with 6's. (OTOH, If they're putting 6V on those 8V filaments, would the tubes even work right? Seems unlikely, to me, as they wouldn't reach normal operating temperatures.)

 It's kind of weird. Maybe when they revamped the PS (for DC on the filaments), they also upped the supply voltage to take advantage of stocks of 8V tubes, as Spritzer suggested. (Mine came from Stax with GEs) The only other difference I've found in the tube construction is a more squared-off shape to the plate structures on the 8s. Not much info out there on them. Be interesting to know the story behind the change. Anyone else who has a 7tII or 6tII should check what tubes came with it, and post here.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I dunno... SRM-T2? SRA-14S?_

 

Sorry - forgot the T2. I have never heard this amp. It certainly looks impressive. The term "best" was used in a rather sweeping maner. What I meant was in fact "neutral" and best for monitoring purposes. ( extended frequency range and dynamics )

 For relaxed pleasant listening the 717 is perhaps not the best. Looking forward to listen to the 727. Anybody here with a 727 ?

 Best regards

 Tom


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For relaxed pleasant listening the 717 is perhaps not the best. Looking forward to listen to the 727. Anybody here with a 727 ?_

 

Check out my post #2195. The 727II sounded rolled off on the O2's.

 AudioD


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out my post #2195. The 727II sounded rolled off on the O2's._

 

Thanks audiod. I can get that effect by feeeding the 717 from a tube cd player.

 Tom


----------



## Icarium

Asked in a separate thread but don't think I got an answer... how much were the SR-Omegas priced at msrp originally O1's etc.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Asked in a separate thread but don't think I got an answer... how much were the SR-Omegas priced at msrp originally O1's etc._

 

In Japan? Y180,000. The Omega 2 is Y185,000. Remeber that Japan has had almost no inflation in the past decade. Of course street prices for both would have been lower, the O2 goes for about Y158,000 tax inclusive.

 In the US Stax prices have been gradulally falling for the last 20-odd years so you'd pay a lot less for an Omega 2 today than you would have paid for an SR-Ω in the early ninties, but only because of the drop in prices Stax stuff goes for across the board.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Asked in a separate thread but don't think I got an answer... how much were the SR-Omegas priced at msrp originally O1's etc._

 

You did get an answer but I'll just repeat it here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The phones on their own were 3000$, bundled with the SRM-T1 4000$ and with the T1S 4500$.


----------



## Icarium

Oh laf. Then thanks here Spritzer. Yeah the last time I had checked that thread it had dropped to second or third page with no reply and I just gave up on it


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh laf. Then thanks here Spritzer. Yeah the last time I had checked that thread it had dropped to second or third page with no reply and I just gave up on it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The thread was on the third page just now. Should we all just give up on it?


----------



## Duggeh

Things drop to the third page with frightening ease. That's why I find the new posts feature so useful sometimes.

 Of course, I have the Stax thread in my favourites, like all good webpages


----------



## spritzer

Abandon the Stax thread, never!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In other news it looks like I will have every TOTL Lambda (SR-Lambda, Pro, Signature, Nova Signature, 404) here with me soon so I can do a detailed comparison with multiple units of each type for cross checking. I'm still debating with my self whether I should buy the 4070 and SC-1 for a more complete review. So Carl, should I? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What I'm really looking forward to is the SR-X Mk2 and Koss ESP10. Rare(ish) vintage phones are always my favorite.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good possibility. I was surprised to see the 8V filament tubes in there. I may measure pin voltages later if I get time to see if they changed the filament supply voltage from 6-8V. I may also call Yamas and see if they know what's up with the change. If they changed the supply, that will mean you really can't tube swap with 6's. (OTOH, If they're putting 6V on those 8V filaments, would the tubes even work right? Seems unlikely, to me, as they wouldn't reach normal operating temperatures.)

 It's kind of weird. Maybe when they revamped the PS (for DC on the filaments), they also upped the supply voltage to take advantage of stocks of 8V tubes, as Spritzer suggested. (Mine came from Stax with GEs) The only other difference I've found in the tube construction is a more squared-off shape to the plate structures on the 8s. Not much info out there on them. Be interesting to know the story behind the change. Anyone else who has a 7tII or 6tII should check what tubes came with it, and post here._

 

I called Tats at Yamas yesterday and asked about the change in tubes in the 7tII. He said he would check with Stax and let me know, and, I just heard back from Tats. Apparently, Stax found a supply of the 8V tubes, and, upon testing, found them to perform marginally better than the 6FQ7s. As Tats said, I was "lucky" in getting one of these specimens, as they've now gone back to using the 6s. They apparently had a limited supply of the GE 8s, carefully matched them up as sets to go in amplifiers, and now just have a small stock kept back for service replacements. He confirmed that they did make a heater power supply adjustment so the tubes are being run on 8v, and cautioned that if I wanted to use 6V tubes, to send it to them first, so they could set the voltage accordingly.

 Sooo..... I guess I'm OK with all this, as I've been pretty happy with the sound of the 7tII I have, but, for those thinking of buying one, you might want to confirm which tubes (and heater voltage setting) the particular specimen you are buying contains. That way you can be sure you're getting a 6V model so as to preserve the option to tube roll with 6V tubes without having to change over the heater PS. Or, you can look around for one of the group to have the 8s. But Tats cautioned there are only so many out there with 8s. Frankly, I doubt if there's much of a performance difference, but Tats said the 8s did measure a little better.

 When I get a chance, I'll take a closer look inside and see if I can figure out if there are any simple adjustments for the 6 vs. 8 V. heater settings - might just be an extra tap off the transformer windings....

 Anyway, mystery solved. Anyone who's bought a 7tII or 7tA, check to see what tubes it came with. I'm curious to see how many there are out there.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Things drop to the third page with frightening ease. That's why I find the new posts feature so useful sometimes.

 Of course, I have the Stax thread in my favourites, like all good webpages 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

So do I, but your point's well taken. We really need a sub-category for electrostatic headphones. Otherwise, we just have to have a new Stax Thread every six months or so. Seems silly. Frankly, I've rarely, if ever, even clicked on any other thread in the headphones forum here, unless it was about Stax. I can't imagine wanting to read about most non-E-stat headphones, or really anything dynamic (vs. electrostatic.) Occasionally there will be a stray thread someone starts about Stax or Senn E-stats, and they quickly disappear into the nether regions. We need a separate category for E-Stats, that's obvious. They are two different worlds, and there's not a lot of crossover between them, in my experience.
 Guess I'm an E-Stat snob, but, baby, you just can't go back!


----------



## Duggeh

I understand the direction you are coming from with that suggestion but its simply not possible and not feasible. If most electrostatic discussion is rounded up in these dedicated threads, then what is the point of the separate forum. Furthermore, it makes any comparative discussion difficult and any cross technological threads difficult to place. It increases workload for the moderators and ultimately would only be confusing for the general head-fi user. There are better ideas for subdivision of the headphones forum, but even the best of them still aren't worth it.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Abandon the Stax thread, never!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, with the recent forum patch we don't even have the page width issue to worry about any more.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In other news it looks like I will have every TOTL Lambda (SR-Lambda, Pro, Signature, Nova Signature, 404) here with me soon so I can do a detailed comparison with multiple units of each type for cross checking. I'm still debating with my self whether I should buy the 4070 and SC-1 for a more complete review. So Carl, should I? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Knowing Carl for many years I have yet to see him ever advise against spending money on good equipment. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Looking forward to the Lambda comparison.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand the direction you are coming from with that suggestion but its simply not possible and not feasible. If most electrostatic discussion is rounded up in these dedicated threads, then what is the point of the separate forum. Furthermore, it makes any comparative discussion difficult and any cross technological threads difficult to place. It increases workload for the moderators and ultimately would only be confusing for the general head-fi user. There are better ideas for subdivision of the headphones forum, but even the best of them still aren't worth it._

 

You're probably right, but there are so many other less cogent sub-divisions, like "cables and tweaks (??!)", etc., that one wonders...

 Maybe a "High-End Headphones" Forum, that way, it could encompass K1000s, et alia....

 Guess it's almost time for a "new" Stax thread, sigh...

 See, the point is, there would be multiple threads within a sub-category, some addressing O2s, others moldy, oldies. It would organize the material much better, and you wouldn't have to have multiple bookmarks (as I do) within this very thread to find the valuable stuff.

 Needs to happen.


----------



## Avant

Can anyone tell me something about the quality of SR-001Mk2s? I want to buy a pair, but they look frail :/ Will I be disappointed switching from SR-80s?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Avant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me something about the quality of SR-001Mk2s? I want to buy a pair, but they look frail :/ Will I be disappointed switching from SR-80s?_

 

I own the SR-003s which are essentially the same as the SR-001, the difference is the amp that they come with and the plug on the end of the cable. I also own the SR-80s. 

 I don't believe the SR-001/003 are especially frail, if they are frail at all it's the thin ribbon cabling which I think could be easily damaged if it got caught on something sharp. I don't think the earpieces themselves would be easily broken, they seem very strong to me. I'd argue the build quality is better than the SR-80s, manufacturing defects don't seem especially uncommon on Grados and the build quality of my SR-80s is not perfect either.

 As far as sound quality goes, the SR-001/003 have some noticeable treble rolloff. The bass is tighter and more defined and the midrange is more pure and rich sounding. This sound signature is somewhat different to the more bright and forward SR-80s. In my opinion the SR-001/003 sound better overall but someone who likes the pronounced treble might have a hard time adjusting to them after Grados. Of course if you're willing to use some EQ this will not be a problem.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're probably right, but there are so many other less cogent sub-divisions, like "cables and tweaks (??!)", etc., that one wonders...

 Maybe a "High-End Headphones" Forum, that way, it could encompass K1000s, et alia...._

 

I think a High-End Headphone forum would incite massive flamewars with people arguing over what should and should not be allowed in there since price isn't a good guide. I hate to think what it would be like for the mods to police. In terms of what could be split into new forums, I could almost understand IEMs being split off but even then there's topic crossover at times that makes it hard to justify. I do actually read and post in dynamic threads and IEM threads myself to a lesser degree.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess it's almost time for a "new" Stax thread, sigh..._

 

Well the page count on this one is getting higher but I don't see much difference between a ten page thread, a 115 page thread and a 500 page thread personally. _*shrug*_

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See, the point is, there would be multiple threads within a sub-category, some addressing O2s, others moldy, oldies. It would organize the material much better, and you wouldn't have to have multiple bookmarks (as I do) within this very thread to find the valuable stuff.

 Needs to happen._

 

I can see how that would be useful. This thread is rather diverse and spread out for sure. Can't see it happening though. The mods seem resistant to splitting things up too much and I can understand that, it'd just be more places they have to check.


----------



## Duggeh

I dont like the idea of a new thread. I find it easier to search within a thread containing much content, or for a thread regular it means you can keep up with any simultaneous discussions. Indeed, now that the page numbers width issue is solved we could ask for the first thread to be pasted onto the front of this one.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed, now that the page numbers width issue is solved we could ask for the first thread to be pasted onto the front of this one._

 

w00t! It was faster than I expected, but I knew there would be calls for a return to the old thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Team vintage rules! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't believe the SR-001/003 are especially frail, if they are frail at all it's the thin ribbon cabling which I think could be easily damaged if it got caught on something sharp. I don't think the earpieces themselves would be easily broken, they seem very strong to me...As far as sound quality goes, the SR-001/003 have some noticeable treble rolloff. The bass is tighter and more defined and the midrange is more pure and rich sounding. This sound signature is somewhat different to the more bright and forward SR-80s...someone who likes the pronounced treble might have a hard time adjusting to them after Grados. Of course if you're willing to use some EQ this will not be a problem._

 

Agreed on all points. SR-001/003 fragility is the cable (though it can take quite a beating) and the small black clips that hold the metal head band to each side/driver holder (they can snap off and, if you lose them it's a hassle).

 The cables connections though are quite strong - they actually 'unplug' from the driver before the wire would rip out.

 The SQ is strong in all but the upper treble roll off. Fine for relaxed late night pre-sleep listening, particularly jazz, but you'd definitely miss the highs coming from Grado sound with a dynamic piece of music.

 I'd suggest you really do need to 'try' before you buy - only your ears can tell you what you need to know.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agreed on all points. SR-001/003 fragility is the cable (though it can take quite a beating) and the small black clips that hold the metal head band to each side/driver holder (they can snap off and, if you lose them it's a hassle).

 The cables connections though are quite strong - they actually 'unplug' from the driver before the wire would rip out.

 The SQ is strong in all but the upper treble roll off. Fine for relaxed late night pre-sleep listening, particularly jazz, but you'd definitely miss the highs coming from Grado sound with a dynamic piece of music.

 I'd suggest you really do need to 'try' before you buy - only your ears can tell you what you need to know._

 


 I found that the treble roll-off was more pronunced on the SRM001II with cheaper interconnects, but that a better grade interconnect, (in my case the 6 inch Headroom mini-mini)made this set much more listenable. The 003 sounds a bit better from my larger amps, i.e. SRM-3 and 717, but it's still recognizeably the same phone as the 001 but with more punch.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that the treble roll-off was more pronunced on the SRM001II with cheaper interconnects, but that a better grade interconnect, (in my case the 6 inch Headroom mini-mini)made this set much more listenable._

 

That's a good point. Makes me wonder what effect a silver interconnect would have.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that the treble roll-off was more pronunced on the SRM001II with cheaper interconnects, but that a better grade interconnect, (in my case the 6 inch Headroom mini-mini)made this set much more listenable. The 003 sounds a bit better from my larger amps, i.e. SRM-3 and 717, but it's still recognizeably the same phone as the 001 but with more punch._

 

Yes, quite true. I use my 001s through an [AK]Zip adapter to regular 5 Pin connections. It's only when I'm travelling and overnight in hotels that I use its own amp. And in both circumstances I use high grade interconnects.

 And mirimu's suggestion might have some merit - I'm hopeful of trying some silvers out soon so I'll see what effect they have on the 001's SQ.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Knowing Carl for many years I have yet to see him ever advise against spending money on good equipment. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Looking forward to the Lambda comparison._

 

That's what I'm afraid of. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll most likely buy the 4070 soon unless a lonely O1 needs a new home then they'll have to wait awhile. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe a "High-End Headphones" Forum, that way, it could encompass K1000s, et alia...._

 

What we need IMO is a "System building" sub forum because the headphones don't matter as much as the system they're in. A High end forum is a can of worms because what is high end really. Should we rank by price or performance and then if you throw a vintage Stax into the mix it will wipe the floor with all of the popular dynamics where it really counts for a fraction of the price.


----------



## Duggeh

The best idea for splitting the headphoen forum I've seen suggested is portable/home. But even that has its bugbears as to where you draw the line. The portable audio forum is one part of the site that I almost never visit personally.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_'m still debating with my self whether I should buy the 4070 and SC-1 for a more complete review. So Carl, should I? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The 4070 is more different than you might expect. It's not that Lambda-ey.

 The SC-1 is overpriced, no arguement, but is certainly better than the 404. Maybe try to find one on some auction site?

  Quote:


 What I'm really looking forward to is the SR-X Mk2 and Koss ESP10. Rare(ish) vintage phones are always my favorite. 
 

You should definately pick up a ESP950. Being in production the 2nd hand ones can get quite cheap.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Knowing Carl for many years I have yet to see him ever advise against spending money on good equipment. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You still haven't bought those US 10 Pros, Matt! Shame. On. You. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Guess it's almost time for a "new" Stax thread, sigh... 
 

Just tell me when it's time for a new one.

 I don't think this thread is quite bursting at the seams yet, but it'll get unweildly sooner of later.
 Needs to happen.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Avant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me something about the quality of SR-001Mk2s? I want to buy a pair, but they look frail :/ Will I be disappointed switching from SR-80s?_

 

Grado SR80s or Stax SR80s?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 is more different than you might expect. It's not that Lambda-ey._

 

I have to agree completely given my experience with the 4070s and the 404s.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You still haven't bought those US 10 Pros, Matt! Shame. On. You. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

B-B-But the UE11s are coming out soon!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_B-B-But the UE11s are coming out soon! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll let you off this time.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 is more different than you might expect. It's not that Lambda-ey.

 The SC-1 is overpriced, no arguement, but is certainly better than the 404. Maybe try to find one on some auction site?_

 

I'm glad that the 4070 is quite different. While I like the Lambdas they get tiring after a while unless the system compensates for the etched nature. The thicker membrane of the older models helps as well but you loose some of the clarity. 

 I'll jump on the SC-1 if I can find them used but they are a bit on the pricey side. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should definately pick up a ESP950. Being in production the 2nd hand ones can get quite cheap._

 

They are on my must buy list but the Stax phones take first place because there are still quite a few I've yet to buy. I'll always jump on a good deal though.


----------



## edstrelow

_ just saw this on Ebay. Someone into oldies might want it, it is a rarity among old Koss._


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlinkus


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ just saw this on Ebay. Someone into oldies might want it, it is a rarity among old Koss.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlinkus_

 

I'm already watching that one...


----------



## Downrange

OKAY, page FIVE, already...

 Yes, I have it bookmarked, but still.

 There are three or four Stax threads scattered between here and the front page. One more time, we need an electrostatic forum to keep it all together. (And divide out the good stuff that's scattered throughout this thread's 115 pages.)

 Please?


----------



## Duggeh

If you do have an electrostatic forum, do you enforce it rigidly? Does any thread which compares a dynamic with an electrostatic go there? Or perhaps only if it compares an electrostatic with a dynamic? What about orthodynamic or piezoelectric drivers? Or AMTs? Do they belong with the electrostatic (more niche) section or in the what would be dynamic section?

 Even if you did give a separate forum to electrostatics, my reckoning is that a thread like the Stax thread as it is would materialise in any event, because this thread is as much a discussion and conversation thread as it is just information and debate. Like the "there's something about Ultrasone" thread. The Stax threads are a home for those whose primary interest or conversational intrigue may lie within the confines of its context. The Ultrasone thread is even longer than this one, but do Ultrasone deserve their own forum?


----------



## Downrange

I dunno, Duggeh. To me, there is a clear demarcation between electrostatic headphones and all others. If they self-bias, or need a bias supply, they're electrostatic. All others need not apply. If there were a separate forum, all the threads (should I buy the 202s?, what's next after Lambda Pro Classic?, are the 001s worth buying?, etc., etc.) that are going to be rapidly lost in all this flotsam and jetsam about "what 100 dollar phones should I get for college?" are sequestered and preserved and can be readily located. It just doesn't seem that hard to do this.

 Maybe it's just me. I'll shut up now.


----------



## Duggeh

What $100 dollar headphones should I buy for college? 

 So if someone recommends a vintage Stax electret set, does that merit the transmission of the thread into an electrostatic sub forum? In addition, just because it is that kind of thread topic, that does not make it flotsam or jetsam.

 Messy as such a division would be, I think that more than causing a moderation headache, it would diminish the spirit of the main headphone forum. There would be a loss of cohesion as the electrostatic lovers, in ultimate terms, apartheided themselves from the rest of the community. Your argument that the electrostatic subforum would make location of threads on such topics easier is also moot, there's nothing to be gained from a division in that regard which isn't already available as a facility of the general search function.

 I really must emphasise in the strongest terms that I believe the creation of an electrostatic sub forum to be a bad idea.


----------



## Carl

If it hits page five, post something to kickstart the conversation. Maybe a picture of some kind of stuffed toy wearing lambdas, or wild speculation about Stax's next generation of products, or start a flamewar about the superiority of Sennheiser's electrostats. That's what the thread is here for.


----------



## Duggeh

_start a flamewar about the superiority of Sennheiser's electrostats. That's what the thread is here for._

 Everyone knows that Koss make the best electrostats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...or start a flamewar about the superiority of Sennheiser's electrostats. That's what the thread is here for. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did somebody call my name... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I actually have a confession to make, I'm starting to like the He90 just a little bit... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been tweaking the T1 lately and the He90 sounds just stunning on some music through it. They are a great compliment to the Lambdas because they're great at doing what the Lambdas really suck at, clean treble extension.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What $100 dollar headphones should I buy for college? 

 So if someone recommends a vintage Stax electret set, does that merit the transmission of the thread into an electrostatic sub forum? In addition, just because it is that kind of thread topic, that does not make it flotsam or jetsam.

 Messy as such a division would be, I think that more than causing a moderation headache, it would diminish the spirit of the main headphone forum. There would be a loss of cohesion as the electrostatic lovers, in ultimate terms, apartheided themselves from the rest of the community. Your argument that the electrostatic subforum would make location of threads on such topics easier is also moot, there's nothing to be gained from a division in that regard which isn't already available as a facility of the general search function.

 I really must emphasise in the strongest terms that I believe the creation of an electrostatic sub forum to be a bad idea._

 

Doug, you make valid points, but I beg you to reconsider.

 My vision of a electrostatic sub-forum isn't one that must be rigorously moderated for electrostatic-only talk. It is a place for those who have interest in electrostatic headphones to hang out. If there is electrostatic-talk in the main forums, that is not a problem as long as the original intention was to fact find about headphones in general even if it does progress into a fully-fledged 'electrostatic conversion' (which is what happens most of the time - general enquiry turning into more specific enquiries). So your typical which "$100 dollar headphone should I buy for college" type of person would be catered for by electret recommendations and hopefully be encouraged to start a thread on the electrostatic sub-forum about vintage Stax electrets titled "Which $100 electrostatic headphone should I buy for college"
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There aren't that many threads comparing electrostatic to dynamic anyway and if there were to be any more, those thread starters will be encouraged to start them within the electrostatic sub-forum. Head-Fiers are an intelligent and orderly bunch who know where to post what. To be honest, I can't see an extra sub-forum causing much disorganisation or chaos. This would solve the "moderation headache" that you speak of. The electrostatic sub-forum would allow for a more specialised atmosphere. All that said and done, I _completely_ understand where you're coming from. Obviously, more thought would have to go into the actual logistics of it, but IMO, this community will be able to handle it without a sweat.

 Neither am I worried that there will be a loss of cohesion between Head-Fiers. I've noticed that those who use electrostatic headphones most usually stay within electrostatic headphone threads anyway. I don't think one needs to read so deep into the social implications of creating a specialist sub-forum.

 The search function is indeed useful and in a way does away with having to create new sub-forums for absolutely everything, but the electrostatic crowd has grown quite a bit and so has the general interest to possibly warrant a small section of its own.

 The main issue I see with the current 'setup' is the mixed, varied and often interrupted discussions. I am reluctant to post my own experiences about something trivial if there's something more important going on in this thread like Carl and Spritzer talking about their super amp designs which I read with great interest. The thread itself is also far too long and beyond a manageable size. Even for someone like me who has actually read through the entire new and old Stax thread, I can hardly remember which one contains what. There is a lot of extremely valuable stuff hidden within these threads, which are unfortunately highly inaccessible. Separating them out into many different threads (even ones that are a couple posts long), would greatly benefit those who are new and old to this 'niche'.

 Other headphone forums I visit have employed similar strategies like separating the IEM and headphone forums; high-end from normal headphones; home-use from IEM/portable headphones, etc... All of them, apart from the high-end/normal headphone differentiation works very well IMO. I understand that people don't like change. If it works, why fix it? I, for one, see a very low risk in the starting of a new electrostatic sub-forum. Would it be possible for a trial run to be made?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did somebody call my name... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I actually have a confession to make, I'm starting to like the He90 just a little bit... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been tweaking the T1 lately and the He90 sounds just stunning on some music through it. They are a great compliment to the Lambdas because they're great at doing what the Lambdas really suck at, clean treble extension._

 

Wait, hold up, hold up. Are you telling me your $6000 headphone _actually sounds good!?!_


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ There aren't that many threads comparing electrostatic to dynamic anyway and if there were to be any more, those thread starters will be encouraged to start them within the electrostatic sub-forum._

 

I've been bothered by this lately, and it's a big reason I wouldn't like to see a separate forum. There is a huge divide between the recabling, expensive amp-buying dynamic crowd and the electrostatisticians, which I for one would like to see broken up a little. A few cross-type comparison tests at different price points would be a breath of fresh air. This is not even to mention the fact that nobody has done a real shootout between a modded ortho and a lower-end stax. Well, I've been doing one in my living room, but that's another story.

 But beside this, I'd mostly be concerned that there just aren't enough people involved in the electrostat discussion to keep a whole sub-forum going. As we've seen, one outrageously large thread with a few small spinoff discussions is big enough to hold them. Such a forum would run the risk of seeming moribund.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been bothered by this lately, and it's a big reason I wouldn't like to see a separate forum. There is a huge divide between the recabling, expensive amp-buying dynamic crowd and the electrostatisticians, which I for one would like to see broken up a little. A few cross-type comparison tests at different price points would be a breath of fresh air. This is not even to mention the fact that nobody has done a real shootout between a modded ortho and a lower-end stax. Well, I've been doing one in my living room, but that's another story.

 But beside this, I'd mostly be concerned that there just aren't enough people involved in the electrostat discussion to keep a whole sub-forum going. As we've seen, one outrageously large thread with a few small spinoff discussions is big enough to hold them. Such a forum would run the risk of seeming moribund._

 

I'm not convinced that the existence of a specialist sub-forum would put off further dynamic vs electrostatic discussion. If anything, won't potential review/impression-writers be motivated? A lot of Head-Fiers view electrostats as something prohibitively expensive, exotic, relatively inaccessible and only for connoisseurs with an acquired taste for odd-looking gear. This is simply untrue. The current price of admission to the newer Stax range is under $400 including amplifier. This is less than what most pay for a pair of HD650/DT880/D2000/K701 + amp and has the potential to sound just as good, if not better in certain respects. Then there's the whole vintage world which I'm ashamed to say remains a mystery to me even to this day. Those are generally, considerably cheaper to acquire. Looks aren't a problem either. I see a pair of Lambdas and I think to myself - pure musical bliss, function dictates form. I've actually grown to love the way the some old-style Lambdas look: black with red lettering.

 The lack of people involved in electrostatic discussion is mainly due to the lack of awareness and general perceived expensiveness of electrostats. (If anything, the limited number of electrostatic headphones currently available to consumers is the main culprit.) There's a great deal of demystifying to do and this current Stax thread does not cater sufficiently to those looking to get into electrostatics. Most of the conversation here is highly specialised and wouldn't really be useful to the majority of the potential audience, that is, your HF-1/Headfive tooting Head-Fier looking for a different experience. It might also seem quite a daunting task to penetrate discussion within this thread about the seemingly endless number of different amp and transducer models. 

 My introduction to Stax was really by chance. I went to Duggeh's for a lil' meet with a couple others and that was when it all happened. Back then (around Nov 06), the original Stax thread was only around 50 odd pages long, so I didn't have much to sieve through. With the aid of a very generous Head-Fier and other superbly helpful people, I was able to make it all happen with very little fuss. Now, you have to read through 247 pages of posts to find information which is relevant. Sure, the same helpful people are around, but it's not very efficient helping one person at a time when we could be affecting even half a dozen potential Staxens at a time. As a relatively new electrostat user, I can see potential benefits to a specialist forum.

 Anyhow, I'm generally content with the way things are at the moment and if they continue the way it's been going, the world will still go round


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait, hold up, hold up. Are you telling me your $6000 headphone actually sounds good!?!_

 

Yes and no. They sound great on some songs and albums but when they have to resolve something like two separate bass lines they refuse to play nice and instead come up with some crazy fusion of the song where large portions of the bass is missing. The really strange part is that they can play pretty deep bass What they do well is the top part of the spectrum aside from a fairly annoying midrange etch. They can go on forever, never bright and very easy on the ears. I think I need to build a HEV90 clone to mate with them and enjoy them for what they are. 

 I believe this strange behavior is a part of the design because the Sennheiser engineers wanted to get more topend out of them and come up with the impressive 100KHz response figure. When you do that the diaphragm has to be very tensioned and is thus unable to move as much as a low tensioned diaphragm can. Life is full of compromises and the only real way to have the top end of the He90 and the low end of the SR-007 is to use two diaphragms with 3 stators in each driver. The diaphragms could of different thickness, tension and bias voltage so no crossover is necessary. That is however not an easy design task and has it's own problems such as internal reflection, phase issues and most of all cost. I did spend some designing my version of this last winter and built a working prototype driver but it didn't sound all that great. It was badly built (and suffered a horrible death when I connected it up to a 1KV bias supply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) so the design could have some potential but I really like to keep things simple and two bias supply's isn't exactly simple.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ...I did spend some designing my version of this last winter and built a working prototype driver but it didn't sound all that great. It was badly built (and suffered a horrible death when I connected it up to a 1KV bias supply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) so the design could have some potential but I really like to keep things simple and two bias supply's isn't exactly simple._

 

Crikey, spritzer, is there nothing going on in Iceland in winter? Shouldn't you get out more?


----------



## Duggeh

I read somewhere that Iceland has the highest population of hot single ladies in Europe. I don't know if I would be sitting in soldering stators together on those long cold winter nights.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Crikey, spritzer, is there nothing going on in Iceland in winter? Shouldn't you get out more? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I read somewhere that Iceland has the highest population of hot single ladies in Europe. I don't know if I would be sitting in soldering stators together on those long cold winter nights. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Going out at night here is a thing to see and experience. Thousands of people, dead drunk, vandalizing and beating each other up. It's a lot of fun but since I almost got an ulcer from drinking too much I had to cut down on the partying. Drinking Stroh 80% straight out of the bottle every day for two weeks isn't the best idea I've ever had


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Going out at night here is a thing to see and experience. Thousands of people, dead drunk, vandalizing and beating each other up. It's a lot of fun but since I almost got an ulcer from drinking too much I had to cut down on the partying. Drinking Stroh 80% straight out of the bottle every day for two weeks isn't the best idea I've ever had 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 In the last year, my youngest daughter developed a fascination about Iceland, even trying to learn the language. Surely it's not that bad a place?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the last year, my youngest daughter developed a fascination about Iceland, even trying to learn the language. Surely it's not that bad a place?_

 

The night life has gotten out of hand and so have some aspects of the daily life mainly due to the excessive prosperity over the last decade. Alcohol and other substances have always been a problem here and that's why they are heavily controlled but the government eased the grip a few years ago and things have begun to spin out of control. They are trying to get it under wraps again but it takes time. Our bakery is right on the outskirts of the downtown area so when I go to work on weekends at 3 in the morning it looks like a battlefield with broken glass everywhere and people passed out all over the place. When I'm done at about 9 the streets have been cleaned and it's all back to normal. 

 One thing to remember is that we are a young nation (we turn 64 tomorrow the 17.) and we have yet to learn from our mistakes. Things are changing very fast and the wealth is driving every body nuts, spending much more then they earn. Aside from this it is a great place to live with the best health are system in the world (and it is free too), no last names which really freaks out some foreigners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and a slightly excessive lust for life. 

 Ps. If you want to learn something in Icelandic to impress your daughter just let me know.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I need to build a HEV90 clone to mate with them and enjoy them for what they are._

 

I'm very much thinking about building a HEV90 clone for myself too. If you want to work together on it to reduce the workload then I'm game.

 Once the damn America's Cup is over I'll finally have some free time to do all the stuff that I've been meaning to do for the last two months. My backlog is as long as my arm, it's really depressing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very much thinking about building a HEV90 clone for myself too. If you want to work together on it to reduce the workload then I'm game._

 

It would be great to share some of the workload and have another set of eues to make sure I don't do some of my stupid mistakes, like when one of the KGSS I built went up in flames. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think that it could be a very synergistic amp to the HE60/90 when built to a decent standard (unlike the stock unit) and it's a waste to have all these ECL86 tubes just sitting around doing nothing. This project would be very easy if we could convince Justin to sell us a couple of PCB's from the Aristaeus though I'm always up for a good P-P project. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once the damn America's Cup is over I'll finally have some free time to do all the stuff that I've been meaning to do for the last two months. My backlog is as long as my arm, it's really depressing._

 

It's the same thing here. Damn summer vacations just increase my workload but I've got most weekends off so I can't complain. My workload actually got a bit longer last night when I opened up the G08 and saw how easy it is to mod it. The transport has been acting up so that will be replaced along with all wiring and all of the big caps. I'm also thinking about building a new PSU for it because the stock unit is an OEM switcher that sells for 45€.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are three or four Stax threads scattered between here and the front page. One more time, we need an electrostatic forum to keep it all together. (And divide out the good stuff that's scattered throughout this thread's 115 pages.)

 Please?_

 

I don't think a separate electrostatics sub-forum are a great idea.
 For one, there are no sub-forum for any kind of head-/earphones at all. So what makes us entitled to have our own?

 If Jude were to add a sub-forum for electrostatics, he might need to add sub-forum for the other technologies as well. Meaning:
Electrostatic headphones
Dynamic headphones
Piezoelectric headphones
Orthodynamic headphones
...
I believe this would be a huge mess to maintain and modify.
 Keep it as it is today, or separate into two sub-forums as a start (*Full sized headphones* and *In-Ear Monitors*).
 Thats my personal opinion!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be great to share some of the workload and have another set of eues to make sure I don't do some of my stupid mistakes, like when one of the KGSS I built went up in flames. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think that it could be a very synergistic amp to the HE60/90 when built to a decent standard (unlike the stock unit) and it's a waste to have all these ECL86 tubes just sitting around doing nothing. This project would be very easy if we could convince Justin to sell us a couple of PCB's from the Aristaeus though I'm always up for a good P-P project._

 

If you want to pen an email to Justin then by all mean do so. Assuming he'd let us without charging the earth, it'd probably be preferable to get it etched ourselves, that way we could get it done in silver/PTFE. Otherwise, we'll have to de-solder all the rubbish bits of those Sennheiser parts which I don't look forward to at all...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want to pen an email to Justin then by all mean do so. Assuming he'd let us without charging the earth, it'd probably be preferable to get it etched ourselves, that way we could get it done in silver/PTFE. Otherwise, we'll have to de-solder all the rubbish bits of those Sennheiser parts which I don't look forward to at all..._

 

It would probably cost a pretty penny if he wants to sell any and the board needs to be modified a bit but I can see no harm in asking. It's not like all of the silver wire needed to make the P-P is cheap but silver/PTFE boards are very nice. Above all else PCB's are convenient and make the project much easier but P-P is always better. Life is full of compromises and I can live with either one. There is one issue though whether the caps I'll use (most likely V-Caps or Mundorf) will fit because the board was designed for the much smaller Solens.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would probably cost a pretty penny if he wants to sell any and the board needs to be modified a bit but I can see no harm in asking._

 

Exactly. Obviously if he asks for three grand just for the PCB layout we can politely decline, but if the price is reasonable it seems like a good way to get started on a very nice secondary amp.

 If possible I'd quite like to design the bias circuit fro the ground up as I'd rather have one based around rechargeable batteries (and having a 230v bias is a must, currently I have nothing to amp them with). It'd hardly be a bad thing to have a DIY battery-based bias supply circuit that anyone could use for any future projects that may come up.

  Quote:


 It's not like all of the silver wire needed to make the P-P is cheap but silver/PTFE boards are very nice. Above all else PCB's are convenient and make the project much easier but P-P is always better. Life is full of compromises and I can live with either one. 
 

That's pretty much my view. If I had the time and effort to worry about soldering and trouble shooting any noise issues P-P would be lovely, but I wouldn't want to make this any more complicated than it needs to be. Silver PCBs is a compromise that doesn't bother me much.

  Quote:


 There is one issue though whether the caps I'll use (most likely V-Caps or Mundorf) will fit because the board was designed for the much smaller Solens. 
 

you might need to stand the caps on their ends and have one long leg reaching down to the solder joint. Not ideal, but at least it'll fit. I'm considering using Jupiters, just because I never seem to have an opportunity to use them. They're also on the big side.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly. Obviously if he asks for three grand just for the PCB layout we can politely decline, but if the price is reasonable it seems like a good way to get started on a very nice secondary amp.

 If possible I'd quite like to design the bias circuit fro the ground up as I'd rather have one based around rechargeable batteries (and having a 230v bias is a must, currently I have nothing to amp them with). It'd hardly be a bad thing to have a DIY battery-based bias supply circuit that anyone could use for any future projects that may come up._

 

I'm writing the email now. I'm not really looking for a costly or complicated build right now so this would be ideal. Any excess parts can also be used to upgrade the BH. I know I'm going with a RK50 pot since it isn't that expensive in a single ended amp. 

 A battery powered bias supply is pretty simple with a DC-DC converter. I need at least 3 bias voltages (230, 500, 580v) with about 4 sockets or more. The normal bias is a must with my army of old Stax phones hanging about. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's pretty much my view. If I had the time and effort to worry about soldering and trouble shooting any noise issues P-P would be lovely, but I wouldn't want to make this any more complicated than it needs to be. Silver PCBs is a compromise that doesn't bother me much._

 

Exactly and PCB based amp look so much cleaner and more organized. It's also easier to do the housing with a fixed size in mind. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you might need to stand the caps on their ends and have one long leg reaching down to the solder joint. Not ideal, but at least it'll fit. I'm considering using Jupiters, just because I never seem to have an opportunity to use them. They're also on the big side._

 

The beeswax could make an interesting contribution to the overall sound. I'm going for a transparent as can be sound but then again I'm a neutrality nut.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm writing the email now._

 

Excellent. Keep me posted.

  Quote:


 I'm not really looking for a costly or complicated build right now so this would be ideal. Any excess parts can also be used to upgrade the BH. I know I'm going with a RK50 pot since it isn't that expensive in a single ended amp. 
 

I'd prefer something motorized. Know of any motorized pots that are better than an Alps blue?

  Quote:


 A battery powered bias supply is pretty simple with a DC-DC converter. I need at least 3 bias voltages (230, 500, 580v) with about 4 sockets or more. The normal bias is a must with my army of old Stax phones hanging about. 
 

Yeah. A simple AA rechargeable based 230/500/580vDC supply. It's just a matter of designing it.

  Quote:


 Exactly and PCB based amp look so much cleaner and more organized. It's also easier to do the housing with a fixed size in mind. 
 

If one of us made both housings it'd be easier, assuming that we could agree on the cosmetics.

  Quote:


 The beeswax could make an interesting contribution to the overall sound. I'm going for a transparent as can be sound but then again I'm a neutrality nut. 
 

My main rig is inclined slightly towards sterile, so I want something with a different sound, no nonsense musicality. I'm also planning on using 100% carbon comp. resistors. I'd imagine we'll end up choing different brand tubes as well. Customizing things to your own taste is all part of the fun.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent. Keep me posted._

 

Will do. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd prefer something motorized. Know of any motorized pots that are better than an Alps blue?_

 

I think that the RK40 can be converted but I'm not sure. I'll look into it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah. A simple AA rechargeable based 230/500/580vDC supply. It's just a matter of designing it._

 

I would go for a 9v battery and a OEM DC-DC if I were to go the battery way. I think I'll stick with a transformer based multiplier circuit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If one of us made both housings it'd be easier, assuming that we could agree on the cosmetics._

 

Agreeing, that could be hard. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was considering something along the lines of the HEV90 but not as big. I'm probably going to use a Tamura or a Tango transformer so it doesn't have to be hidden along with the PSU caps. Maybe a nice wooden base with a copper plate on top and a mirror finished plate on top of that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My main rig is inclined slightly towards sterile, so I want something with a different sound, no nonsense musicality. I'm also planning on using 100% carbon comp. resistors. I'd imagine we'll end up choing different brand tubes as well. Customizing things to your own taste is all part of the fun._

 

Yes it is. I'm planning on going with tantalum resistors for the smaller ones, WBT rca sockets, Furutech IEC socket, dale or mills for the high wattage resistors and Black Gates for electrolytic caps.


----------



## ironbut

Carl;3043708 said:
			
		

> If possible I'd quite like to design the bias circuit fro the ground up as I'd rather have one based around rechargeable batteries (and having a 230v bias is a must, currently I have nothing to amp them with). It'd hardly be a bad thing to have a DIY battery-based bias supply circuit that anyone could use for any future projects that may come up.
> 
> Excellent!


----------



## feckn_eejit

After a fairly unenchanting HE90/SR-007 audition with a Singlepower ES-1 (thanks to akwok!), it looks like I am buying an Illusion ESC-1001 direct from Tachyon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 JPY/CDN$ exchange is pretty good right now... I'll wait to see final price after shipping, but it will almost certainly be acceptable. 

 The ES-1 sounds very beautiful with both the above mentioned electrostatic cans. Incredible detail, with the HE-90 the top end resolution and extension is better than I ever imagined possible. I preferred the SR-007s by a long shot, but even with the Stax, the ES-1 didn't do it for me in terms of dynamics and PRaT. It was too delicate. I felt like I had to turn it up very loud to get the level of intensity I was looking for. This may be because it was too good, too fast, too resolving, too perfect... I went back home and plugged the SR-404s into the SRD-7 Pro, hooked up to the X250.5 and it handily trounced the experience I had with the both the SR-007s and the HE90s on the ES-1. It would be interesting to hear a KGBH to see if I prefer that, but I am pretty sure I am simply a transformer box kind of guy. 

 I brought my Grado RS1s to this mini-meet as well. I actually preferred the RS1s amped by a PPX3-6SN7 to either electrostatic can powered by the ES-1. However, when I put on the RS1s after listening to the SR-X/MK3s back home in my rig, the RS1s sound slow and plodding in comparison. I wish I could get the speedy, immediate sound I get with the SR-X/MK3, but with bottom and top end extension... because otherwise it strikes me as pretty much ideal. SR-Omega...?

 After the very impressive improvement I got from hooking the input leads of the transformers in the SRD-7 Pro straight up to the speaker terminals on my amp, I am willing to take a shot at the ESC-1001 in order to regain the convenience of ... well, not having to put the SRD-7 Pro on a little pedestal behind my amp so the short transformer leads reach... should see at least a slight sonic improvement anyway, plus I kind of feel bad for having mutilated the SRD-7 Pro, and feel like I should return it to its original condition. I had considered building a transformer box myself, but the ESC-1001 looks better inside than anything I could do and gives me a great starting point for a few tweaks... I think I will take the earspeaker/speaker switch out of the equation and hook the transformer input lines straight up to a pair of upgraded binding posts.


----------



## derekbmn

Welcome back !!! Life keeping you busy ?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome back !!! Life keeping you busy ?_

 

Thank you! Looks like you guys have been doing an excellent job of holding down the fort 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Super busy, work is fantastic, things going great, have gotten plenty of music listening in though thankfully but no tweaking, and I have the fever again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How about you guys?

 Cheers,
 --jeff


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about you guys?_

 

Freezing cold and sorely lacking "me" time. Otherwise pretty much the status quo.


----------



## spritzer

I'm good as well but I can't wait to get my new toys. Mmm 4 new headphones to play with.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @Carl: I haven't heard from Justin yet but I did compile a parts list for the amp from the schematic. There are a lot of caps in there so I might have to use Mundorfs instead of the V-Caps to make it cheaper. The Mundorfs are also rated at 1200v so that's a plus.

 I've been looking into motorized pots and the RK27 seems to be the only good option though I seem to recall that either the Penny & Giles RF11 or RF15 was available motorized. A RK40 could probably be modified but I'm not sure. You could always custom order a RK50 motorized. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm still debating with my self whether to use AC or DC for the filaments. Both have their pro's and con's so I'm not sure.


----------



## Downrange

Spritzer, can you say a bit more about pros/cons on AC/DC on tube filaments? Is the isolation between plate/grid and filaments inadequate to prevent hum, or something? Is there another reason for using DC? Been curious about this since seeing Stax made the change to DC with their new model tube amps. Is there any disadvantage to using DC on filaments?
 Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Jeff. Welcome back!
 Everything as usual in this part of the world as well. Enjoying the same "old" Stax rig (new Poiema!!! interconnect though)...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, can you say a bit more about pros/cons on AC/DC on tube filaments? Is the isolation between plate/grid and filaments inadequate to prevent hum, or something? Is there another reason for using DC? Been curious about this since seeing Stax made the change to DC with their new model tube amps. Is there any disadvantage to using DC on filaments?
 Thanks._

 

AC is cheaper and there are less things to go wrong because it's connected directly to the transformer. There is always some hum and it does reduce tube life but both are manageable and some prefer the simple way of doing things. 

 DC will provide extra isolation, no hum and in some cases extended tube life but it will cost more and with the extra circuitry comes more complexity and there are more things to go wrong. I will probably use AC heaters off a separate transformer so I can warm the tubes up before the B+ hits them but it depends on what transformer I'll end up using.


----------



## _LN_

Slightly off-topic: I've just bought a used SACD player, with a "broken front display light", for about $25 + shipping. It turned out the display was simply turned off in the setup menu! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway, I currently have my SRM-3 hooked up to my Marantz CD player, and was wondering if it would be safe-ish to hook up the SACD player's stereo outputs to the line pass-through on the back of the SRM-3, thereby connecting the stereo outputs of the CD and SACD players together? Or would that potentially cause damage and/or distortion?
 I don't intend for this to be a permanent solution, just a way to try out the SACD player without the hassle of removing and plugging in cables all the time.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Slightly off-topic: I've just bought a used SACD player, with a "broken front display light", for about $25 + shipping. It turned out the display was simply turned off in the setup menu! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway, I currently have my SRM-3 hooked up to my Marantz CD player, and was wondering if it would be safe-ish to hook up the SACD player's stereo outputs to the line pass-through on the back of the SRM-3, thereby connecting the stereo outputs of the CD and SACD players together? Or would that potentially cause damage and/or distortion?
 I don't intend for this to be a permanent solution, just a way to try out the SACD player without the hassle of removing and plugging in cables all the time._

 

It wouldn't be wise because it's unpredictable how the other source will behave when you feed the outputstage voltage but if it's turned off you should be able to do it. If you have no need for the loop out it's simple to add a switch so they will function as two inputs.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm good as well but I can't wait to get my new toys. Mmm 4 new headphones to play with.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Lucky you.

  Quote:


 @Carl: I haven't heard from Justin yet but I did compile a parts list for the amp from the schematic. There are a lot of caps in there so I might have to use Mundorfs instead of the V-Caps to make it cheaper. The Mundorfs are also rated at 1200v so that's a plus. 
 

So you have the schematic? Could you PM me with it or post it up here?

  Quote:


 I've been looking into motorized pots and the RK27 seems to be the only good option though I seem to recall that either the Penny & Giles RF11 or RF15 was available motorized. A RK40 could probably be modified but I'm not sure. You could always custom order a RK50 motorized. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Penny/Giles or TKD would be perferable to me anyway. Alps make nice sounding stuff, but am hardly a fond of the prissy nature of the company.

  Quote:


 I'm still debating with my self whether to use AC or DC for the filaments. Both have their pro's and con's so I'm not sure. 
 

AC would give us an excuse to play around with ballast tubes...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, can you say a bit more about pros/cons on AC/DC on tube filaments? Is the isolation between plate/grid and filaments inadequate to prevent hum, or something? Is there another reason for using DC? Been curious about this since seeing Stax made the change to DC with their new model tube amps. Is there any disadvantage to using DC on filaments?
 Thanks._

 

With indirectly heated tubes the difference isn't anywhere near as great as it is with directly heated tubes. DC gives one the advantages of regulation, but regulators are another circuit and more expense. Without regulation the tubes will take a lot of power at turnon due to the low parts temperatures and thus low resistance.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Just paid Tachyon for the ESC-1001. Ended up at $680CDN with shipping. We'll see what happens with tax/duty when it gets to Canada...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lucky you._

 

No, shopaholic me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Better make that 5 headphones because I just bought a SR-003. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you have the schematic? Could you PM me with it or post it up here?_

 

PM me your email so I can send it to you and the parts list. I don't want it in the public domain unless it is accurate. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Penny/Giles or TKD would be perferable to me anyway. Alps make nice sounding stuff, but am hardly a fond of the prissy nature of the company._

 

I will only use Alps because it is the best and used by those that only care about performance. P&G and TKD are both very nice and I'm going to use P&G in the Blue Hawaii if I can't find a 4 deck RK50 at an almost sane price. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AC would give us an excuse to play around with ballast tubes..._

 

True and AC is also simpler to implement. Sennheiser used a 12.6v filament and we need 1.620A or 3.240A@6.3V. A Hammond transformer for that costs about 20$ and will give us a much wider choice with the main transformer. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With indirectly heated tubes the difference isn't anywhere near as great as it is with directly heated tubes. DC gives one the advantages of regulation, but regulators are another circuit and more expense. Without regulation the tubes will take a lot of power at turnon due to the low parts temperatures and thus low resistance._

 

An overspeced transformer is a must. I really don't want to deal with the DC headache unless there is any hum.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It wouldn't be wise because it's unpredictable how the other source will behave when you feed the outputstage voltage but if it's turned off you should be able to do it. If you have no need for the loop out it's simple to add a switch so they will function as two inputs._

 

Adding a switch would be more of a hassle than unplugging one set of cables, and plugging in another, when I want to switch sources. Besides, I'd rather keep the SRM-3 original. But thanks anyway for the suggestion. I may eventually build or buy a switchbox, though, if I decide to keep using both sources.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, shopaholic me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Better make that 5 headphones because I just bought a SR-003._

 

Hehe.

  Quote:


 PM me your email so I can send it to you and the parts list. I don't want it in the public domain unless it is accurate. 
 

Fair enough, too. It's cambridgecarl[at]yahoo[dot]co[dot]nz.

  Quote:


 True and AC is also simpler to implement. Sennheiser used a 12.6v filament and we need 1.620A or 3.240A@6.3V. A Hammond transformer for that costs about 20$ and will give us a much wider choice with the main transformer. 
 

Quite right. Investing all that effort getting the ripple down just for an IDHT heater is probably going to be wasted effort. We can always build a DC supply after the fact if hum creaps in, but as long as we ground and seperate things properly I don't forsee that happening.

  Quote:


 An overspeced transformer is a must. 
 

Definately. I'd like something with a higher flux core like nanocrystaline/cobalt would be my preference, I want the amp to be fast.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just paid Tachyon for the ESC-1001. Ended up at $680CDN with shipping. We'll see what happens with tax/duty when it gets to Canada..._

 

Sorry if I've missed the post but are you buying it directly from Tachyon or via a third party? It's mostly out of interest, I'm not planning to pick one up myself at this point. I have other plans but the less said about that the better for the time being.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ps. If you want to learn something in Icelandic to impress your daughter just let me know._

 

All right! What would you say in Icelandic for "That's cool dude" or whatever is closest in meaning.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if I've missed the post but are buying off them directly from Tachyon or via a third party? It's mostly out of interest, I'm not planning to pick one up myself at this point. I have other plans but the less said about that the better for the time being. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm pretty sure someone at Tachyon speaks English, as they always seem to reply to people's email enquiries. I haven't spoken to them myself, however.

 They do do direct sales to people outside of Japan.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Jack Yamazaki at Tachyon speaks English. I am dealing directly with him. He sent me a PayPal invoice in JPY. Now, I wait (im)patiently


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fair enough, too. It's ... ._

 

I'll send it now along with the reply from Justin. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quite right. Investing all that effort getting the ripple down just for an IDHT heater is probably going to be wasted effort. We can always build a DC supply after the fact if hum creaps in, but as long as we ground and seperate things properly I don't forsee that happening._

 

Keep it simple is always a good design goal. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definately. I'd like something with a higher flux core like nanocrystaline/cobalt would be my preference, I want the amp to be fast._

 

The problem is getting the good stuff with a 230v primary. I think Tamura is available and ISO/Tango but I'm not sure. Then there is always Lundahl and Magnequest. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All right! What would you say in Icelandic for "That's cool dude" or whatever is closest in meaning._

 

"Þetta er svalt". We don't have anything similar to dude so that would be dropped. The Þ sound is written th but sounds much more like the start of theory rather then Thor. "Er" is pronounced like the end of care. "Svalt" should be easy. The trick to speaking Icelandic is to let it flow and not to force it. I have quite a few foreigners working for me so I'm getting used to teach our complicated language.


----------



## jigster

Well, this is blespemy... found the Stax thread on the 8th page....
 Bumping..
 Bumping...
 Bumping.... to where it belongs!!!
 Would the T1W drive the HE60s decently, since its similar to the T1?
 How would it fair with the O2s? Not good I'm guessing?


----------



## jigster

Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

Yes, and in the UK, too:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STAX-OMEGA-1-H...QQcmdZViewItem

 Who on earth would sell something like this, when they have only negative feedback (and a 'new' [=dodgy] member to give a positive, so the feedback rating is 0!)?

 Or am I just too suspicious?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would the T1W drive the HE60s decently, since its similar to the T1?
 How would it fair with the O2s? Not good I'm guessing?_

 

The T1W is identical to the T1S and should be fine with the HE60 but it doesn't have the power for the O2's. It can drive them and you could be very happy until you hear them driven by an amp that can really take control of them.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, by the way... they're baaaack....
http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-OMEGA-1-HEAD...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

Damn! When will the SR-Omega scammers go away?
 They keep on creating new auctions using pictures used in previous real auctions, and people bid on them...


----------



## Downrange

By the way:

 Is AudioCubesII's price of 75 bucks about as good as I'll find for the Omega 2 replacement cushions (brown)?

 They generally have the best prices, and, from what Spritzer says, it would be wise to have a set of cushions tucked away...


----------



## MaloS

Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions? 

 (Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions? 

 (Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it)._

 

According to this post by Birgir the Egmont is much less powerful. It's true that you can't get 900V peaks from a pair of 6SN7s anyway.

 Stax measures all their amps using RMS, so times by about 1.4 or whatever it is for the peak to peak value.


----------



## MaloS

Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?
 Also, then that sounds rather weird for the relative quality of the amplifier, as other models are considered great...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?_

 

That's what 900Vpp is. Well unless you happen to dislike listening to sinewaves.

 If you ran a 6SN7 on 450V it wouldn't live for very long.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?_

 

What follows is general information and my own opinion. I don't know anything about the prototype of a commercial amp you're speculating about above. I suspect your information or interpretation is mistaken, or perhaps the advertising copy was written by someone with more enthusiasm than knowledge. No criticism of an existing or future design by anyone is made or implied. I'm just giving information to illuminate the discussion, okay?

 There are several classes of 6SN7, their electrical distinctions being far, far more important to their capabilities and thus their sound in an amp than any mickey mouse differences tube rolling within any class can achieve. The "standard" 6SN7GT has a maximum plate voltage rating of 300V. The 6SN7GTB (or older, now less common GTA) has a max plate voltage rating of 450V. Thus a GTB can be operated in theory up to 900Vptp with a split rail power supply. (1)

 However, a maximum rating is not a suggested operating rating. Far from it. The makers of the tube tell you that if you approach any of the maximum ratings, you should derate the other operating parameters of the tube. You may not use two or more maximum parameters at once.

 There are further limits, called maximum dissipation, that is heat management. The plain jane 6SN7GT is good for 3W5 on either plate, or 5W with both plates operating (i.e. 2W5 per plate). The GTB is good for 5W on only one plate or 3W75 per plate with both plates operating.

 That in turn limits the current you can apply to the tube. A certain minimum of current is required to drive the earphones, and a different minimum of current is required on tubes driving output tubes to overcome Miller (parasitic) capacitance and to ensure proper bandwidth in both the bass and the high frequency.

 Thus, if you hog out the voltage on a 6SN7GTB to 450V with both halves operating, current on each plate can be only 3W75/450V = 8.33mA. That's the theory. It is good practice not to run tubes over 80% of Pdmax, so now we're down to 6.6mA. That's not enough, so one reduces the plate voltage to get the current up.

 There are other problems, relating to noise (distortion), when too high a voltage causes the current to be reduced so as not to overheat the tube. The amount of current on the plate determines how high above the illinear portion of the tube's transfer curve the quiescent (zero signal) operating point lies. This point is the electrical centre of a sloping line. At one end of the line, assuming a Class A1 amp (for an electrostatic headphone anything else would simply be too noisy), grid current will be drawn and thus drive the amp into Class A2 (noisy!), at the other end the line will dip into distortion because the tube can no longer amplify the signal faithfully (linearly): big noise. Beyond that lies current cutoff and 100 per cent distortion. We thus want to put the design centre (zero signal) of the transfer slope as high as possible so that at its low end (max volume, lowest current) it still sits above the nasty bits of the tube's transfer. For that 10mA is better than 8 and 6mA is totally unacceptable. 

 There's an informative piccie on my netsite:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/112KISScurves.jpg
 This is a graphic illustration of the transfer function for a WE300B in my T39 Ultra-Fi design but the principle described above is the same. The illustration shows that everything is interrelated: voltage, current, power, distortion, etc.

 More pics of transfer curves here:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/KISS%20190.htm

 Description of the pics is found here:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/T...mp%20INDEX.htm

 My general tube amp site:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm
 This is where I shall publish the Stax earspeaker drivers I designed last year when I get around to writing the accompanying text.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Andre's books and hobbies at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review

 (1) These maxima apply to NOS American and British manufactures and direct equivalents. Chinese and Russians so-called equivalents to 6SN7 do not necessarily have the same ratings or quality of manufacture; what they are capable of may depend on who manufactured them, the batch, or, most commonly, who tested and selected them for rebranding.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_According to this post by Birgir the Egmont is much less powerful. It's true that you can't get 900V peaks from a pair of 6SN7s anyway.

 Stax measures all their amps using RMS, so times by about 1.4 or whatever it is for the peak to peak value._

 

I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

 Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

 I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

 Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

 I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being..._

 

Very loaded, yes. Anyway the GES should do at least as good a job as the 007t as the latter is very much humstrung by Stax wanting to make a good margin off it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions? 

 (Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it)._

 

Output voltage aside it's a bad design that isn't very stable. The parts quality is a joke and some of the build techniques are suspect. There have been some problems with them so I would stay away. 

 I have the schematic and I'll probably build it one day but it's quite a few projects away. It's a relatively simple amp compared to some of the brutes. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

 Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

 I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being..._

 

It should be better then the 007t but a lot is riding on the parts quality, especially the coupling caps. It won't drive the O2's to their limit but for that you need some serious voltage and the parts quality to match. The GES could be a nice alternative to the sterile KGSS but I'd have to hear it too be sure. 

 I doubt we'll ever see a tube amp in the KGSS price range with comparable output voltage unless someone starts making them in China in large numbers. The parts are just too expensive and the build too complicated.


----------



## Carl

Another alternative might be the Masters BA-215TM. EL34s have enough grunt for Omega 2s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another alternative might be the Masters BA-215TM. EL34s have enough grunt for Omega 2s._

 

I forgot about that one. You could as well just buy something like the old Dynaco's and put a Stax plug before the output trafo. 

 I just got a package containing two Lambda Nova Signatures and a SR-X Mk2. Time for some cleaning and a good listening session...


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

for a couple of months. I hope everyone has been fine, Glad to be back. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

I bought these from Japan and they were in pretty bad shape but I just had to have them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 After about two hours of very though cleaning and even some polishing they are looking pretty good considering their age. There is a slight channel imbalance but I haven't opened up the driver yet to see if I can fix it. 

 The Mk2's were introduced in 1972 and replaced by the Mk3 in 1976. The mylar is 3.8um thick and the coating is metal based. The SR-X Mk2 is a very different design compared to the Mk3, the headband is much weaker(and has broken some time long ago on my example), the sound chamber is smaller, the driver is very similar to the SR-3 and has the same perforated bronze stator, the swivel mount screws are copper based not steel and then chrome plated causing them to oxidize, the metal part of the cup is much thinner then on the Mk3 and much more delicate and there is a cloth filter attached to it to. The filter is glued in place so I can't test why it's there but it must have been used to fix some colorations. 

 The sound isn't much like the Mk3's either and I can understand why they were only in production for four years. There is literally no headstage at all and everything sounds very compressed. The top end is a bit edgy and sibilant but very extended, the midrange recessed and a bit distant and they make the Mk3's look like bass monsters. There is some bass but it doesn't extend much. The bass will increase when I put some new pads on them but for now I enjoy nothing below 100Hz. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's obvious that Stax wanted to make something that didn't sound like the SR-3 and SR-3N and had more of a monitor sound to them and they pulled it off. 

 Time for some pics (clickable):












 Here is the cloth over the metal guard on the driver.


----------



## facelvega

Wow, interesting to finally get to see the difference between the Mk2 and Mk3. Much greater than I'd expected. Now I wish we could get them to do a Mk4...


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another alternative might be the Masters BA-215TM. EL34s have enough grunt for Omega 2s._

 

Does anyone have information about or experience with this amp? The bablefish translation of the Japanese doesn't satisfy.


----------



## Tachikoma

I've been having some really, really bad balance problems with my SR-5 lately, so I've been trying to fix them for the last two nights and... I think I have a screwed up membrane, since swapping the membrane between the drivers also shifted the imbalance. However, removing 3 of the 4 screws on the driver capsule on both sides somehow fixes the balance - does anyone know why that works?

 On an unrelated note, I had my SR-5 (the same one) recabled a couple days back with the new stax extension cable, and ... it sounds better =P (The imbalance problem was present before and after the recable.)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, interesting to finally get to see the difference between the Mk2 and Mk3. Much greater than I'd expected. Now I wish we could get them to do a Mk4..._

 

I love to compare Stax models and see how they fixed problems and design issues one at a time. This particular sample could have a DIY replacement diaphragm because it's tensioned way too much, not something Stax has ever done. I don't want to open them up again unless I have time to replace the cable as well so I can't be sure. The SR-X can't stand to be opened up that often. 

 The SR-007 could be considered the newest SR-X because it uses some of the same design elements but taken too the n'th degree. The Sr-Lambda was designed to build on the SR-X strengths and fix the extension issues. It did accomplish that but things started to go very wrong with the Pro and later models. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been having some really, really bad balance problems with my SR-5 lately, so I've been trying to fix them for the last two nights and... I think I have a screwed up membrane, since swapping the membrane between the drivers also shifted the imbalance. However, removing 3 of the 4 screws on the driver capsule on both sides somehow fixes the balance - does anyone know why that works?

 On an unrelated note, I had my SR-5 (the same one) recabled a couple days back with the new stax extension cable, and ... it sounds better =P (The imbalance problem was present before and after the recable.)_

 

First off be sure to put the right side of the diaphragm towards the bias connector. You should see some faint marks from when the coating was applied and that side of the diaphragm has to face the back of the driver. The stators are most likely at fault or the driver has suffered some shock. Just use 3 screws to lessen the tension inside it and be happy that it works. 

 The newer cables are much better then the first ribbon cable and anything is better then the old cloth covered crap. The sibilance it induces is unbearable.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Could anyone or would anyone be interested in having a seperate Headfi Thread for the Stax Sigma Pros and Non Pro Headphones; with related equipment and issues. What do you think? Scottsmrnyc


----------



## MaloS

Is the only shackiness with usage of McAlisters due to the reliability issues?
 Also, Spritzer, if I may ask, do you have anything to say for/against them, or if there are any options for improvement that can be executed with some soldering?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 First off be sure to put the right side of the diaphragm towards the bias connector. You should see some faint marks from when the coating was applied and that side of the diaphragm has to face the back of the driver. The stators are most likely at fault or the driver has suffered some shock. Just use 3 screws to lessen the tension inside it and be happy that it works. 
 

Bah, the fix isn't working anymore (pretty sure it did last night) and I'm sure the diaphragm is fitted the correct way. I doubt that the stators are at fault, but needing to replace the diaphragm isn't anything good either...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could anyone or would anyone be interested in having a seperate Headfi Thread for the Stax Sigma Pros and Non Pro Headphones; with related equipment and issues. What do you think? Scottsmrnyc
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Since I have three different Sigma models, I would certainly be interested. I am not sure if there are that many fans however and I suspect the thread would would end up on page 10 and beyond, given the rate of posting in this section. Try it and see.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the only shackiness with usage of McAlisters due to the reliability issues?
 Also, Spritzer, if I may ask, do you have anything to say for/against them, or if there are any options for improvement that can be executed with some soldering?_

 

They are cheap and that reflects in their build quality. The amps are fairly complicated so that is a lot of parts on a limited budget and cheap parts will kill the performance. There are also obviously some problems with the design and the build procedure so I doubt it can be easily fixed. I think they need some work until they can be recommended. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bah, the fix isn't working anymore (pretty sure it did last night) and I'm sure the diaphragm is fitted the correct way. I doubt that the stators are at fault, but needing to replace the diaphragm isn't anything good either..._

 

Sorry to hear that. The stators need only be off a few fractions of a millimeter to alter the sound. It's almost impossible to fix so lets just hope it's not that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since I have three different Sigma models, I would certainly be interested. I am not sure if there are that many fans however and I suspect the thread would would end up on page 10 and beyond, given the rate of posting in this section. Try it and see._

 

The Sigma fans are few an far between but a dedicated thread could serve a knowledge base for future owners.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 Sorry to hear that. The stators need only be off a few fractions of a millimeter to alter the sound. It's almost impossible to fix so lets just hope it's not that. 
 

Oof. Didn't read that before I sent out the PM, but I don't understand something, how are those screws related to the stators?

  Quote:


 The Sigma fans are few an far between but a dedicated thread could serve a knowledge base for future owners. 
 

I think a dedicated SR-Xmk3 thread might be more useful, afaik there are few vintage staxen as popular _and_ as problematic as this model...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oof. Didn't read that before I sent out the PM, but I don't understand something, how are those screws related to the stators?_

 

Because the driver is a sandwich not fastening one screw can alter the angle of the stators, compensating for the fact one is dislodged.


----------



## feckn_eejit

My ESC-1001 hit Canadian customs this morning... so close, yet so far


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have information about or experience with this amp? The bablefish translation of the Japanese doesn't satisfy._

 

There's pretty much nothing out there about them. I'm not ever sure if it's been discussed on 2channel's Stax threads.

 It's a 12AU7/6SN7/EL34 based design, presumably from the Williamson/Dynaco school of thought. Price wise it doesn't seem too bad, and it doubles as a 15W/pc poweramp so enough to drive some K1000s or AMTs nicely should you so desire. But until we get a brave and trailblazing head-fier pick one up it's going to remain an unknown.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since I have three different Sigma models, I would certainly be interested. I am not sure if there are that many fans however and I suspect the thread would would end up on page 10 and beyond, given the rate of posting in this section. Try it and see._

 

I'm very fond of my SPs.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's pretty much nothing out there about them. I'm not ever sure if it's been discussed on 2channel's Stax threads.

 It's a 12AU7/6SN7/EL34 based design, presumably from the Williamson/Dynaco school of thought. Price wise it doesn't seem too bad, and it doubles as a 15W/pc poweramp so enough to drive some K1000s or AMTs nicely should you so desire. But until we get a brave and trailblazing head-fier pick one up it's going to remain an unknown._

 

Didn't one of those show up on YJ a while back? I remember thinking at the time that it looked like a home made job but it looked very similar to the one in the pic on that site. I don't recall the price but I remember thinking it wasn't too bad.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't one of those show up on YJ a while back? I remember thinking at the time that it looked like a home made job but it looked very similar to the one in the pic on that site. I don't recall the price but I remember thinking it wasn't too bad._

 

No, that one was a 12AT7/12AT7/6FQ7 amp based off an old Stax circuit from the 70s.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, that one was a 12AT7/12AT7/6FQ7 amp based off an old Stax circuit from the 70s._

 

Also a mix of 6V and 12V tubes I see. I wonder why. It would seem to just add complexity to the circuit to me unless the designer really liked those specific tubes.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also a mix of 6V and 12V tubes I see. I wonder why. It would seem to just add complexity to the circuit to me unless the designer really liked those specific tubes._

 

It's not difficult to make a 6.3V and a 12.6V heater surply. I'm pretty sure you can run AT7s at 6.3V if you double the available current anyway.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not difficult to make a 6.3V and a 12.6V heater surply. I'm pretty sure you can run AT7s at 6.3V if you double the available current anyway._

 

Sure, it's not difficult, it's just something extra to do which wouldn't seem to provide much benefit on the face of it unless the valves just sounded amazing together.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, it's not difficult, it's just something extra to do which wouldn't seem to provide much benefit on the face of it unless the valves just sounded amazing together._

 

Nothing beginning with "12A" sounds amazing.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nothing beginning with "12A" sounds amazing._

 

Hence my comments. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I guess some of the "12A" tubes are easy to find/buy and work with.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hence my comments. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I guess some of the "12A" tubes are easy to find/buy and work with._

 

Designers tend to use tubes they and the customer are familiar with and not some obscure design that might be a much better fit. 

 It is a really interesting amp and it is great value with those very tasty Tamura transformers. With 15+15w you should be able to drive the Quad ESL for a very nice dual electrostatic setup. 

 BTW. Carl I'm going to send Justin a message since I haven't heard back from him in a week regarding the PCB's.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is a really interesting amp and it is great value with those very tasty Tamura transformers. With 15+15w you should be able to drive the Quad ESL for a very nice dual electrostatic setup._

 

I wish someone would bite the bullet. I'm sure there are some here who would be quite interested in it.

  Quote:


 BTW. Carl I'm going to send Justin a message since I haven't heard back from him in a week regarding the PCB's. 
 

Cheers, thanks Birgir.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With 15+15w you should be able to drive the Quad ESL for a very nice dual electrostatic setup._

 

Besides my own amps, the amp that in the last decade I loved best for driving Quad ESL (57) and the ESL-63 was Triode Supply Japan's Miyabe, SEPP 300B, good for around 16W per channel. I still have one standing on the floor (I fell across it today, looking for grommets to put on my pedal bike) out of the several I had at one stage; perhaps I should turn it into a Stax driver...

 Andre Jute
 "Blessed is the man who, having nothing to say, abstains from giving us wordly evidence of the fact."-- George Elliot


----------



## patrickamory

Cool looking amp, especially the transformers.

 Japanese audiophilia is always fascinating. This site introduced me to... vintage _cable_...

http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools


----------



## Johnny Blue

*Calling all you Stax experts*:

 I have, at last, got myself a pair of SR-5s to compare with my SR-Xs (initial impression is that they are not nearly so behind the SR-Xs as I'd been led to believe they would be, by various postings on this thread... )

 Anyway, my question is, what model do I have? They were listed as plain SR-5s, but they have a flat cable (and spritzer, it's round at the insertion point, not square like the ones we both have, for our SR-Xs), they are white (actually more cream) in colour (so, sadly, presumably not the Gold version, which are only in black?), and the Stax labels have a gold background. Can't find the SN on the band, but the SR-6/SB that came with them is numbered in the 17000s. Any ideas? Are they SR-5Ns? Or will I need to post a snap?

 In any case, they're in great nick, and a bargain price (about 54 GBP), and very comfortable (I'm not mad keen on the SR-Xs actually pushing on my pinnae, so the semi-circumaural fit of the SR-5s is more comfortable for me, and of course the pads don't degenerate like those of the SR-Xs!).


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Calling all you Stax experts*:

 I have, at last, got myself a pair of SR-5s to compare with my SR-Xs (initial impression is that they are not nearly so behind the SR-Xs as I'd been led to believe they would be, by various postings on this thread... )

 Anyway, my question is, what model do I have? They were listed as plain SR-5s, but they have a flat cable (and spritzer, it's round at the insertion point, not square like the ones we both have, for our SR-Xs), they are white (actually more cream) in colour (so, sadly, presumably not the Gold version, which are only in black?), and the Stax labels have a gold background. Can't find the SN on the band, but the SR-6/SB that came with them is numbered in the 17000s. Any ideas? Are they SR-5Ns? Or will I need to post a snap?

 In any case, they're in great nick, and a bargain price (about 54 GBP), and very comfortable (I'm not mad keen on the SR-Xs actually pushing on my pinnae, so the semi-circumaural fit of the SR-5s is more comfortable for me, and of course the pads don't degenerate like those of the SR-Xs!)._

 

It's a normal SR-5. They might have been recabled by Stax later in their life for some reason, thus explaining the ribbon cable (which should otherwise only be present on the SR-5N*B* version.

 You're not the only one who likes the SR-5, and they're certainly one of the best deals in electrostatics considering the regularly go for 25 to 50% less than the electret SR-80s do.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a normal SR-5. They might have been recabled by Stax later in their life for some reason, thus explaining the ribbon cable (which should otherwise only be present on the SR-5N*B* version.

 You're not the only one who likes the SR-5, and they're certainly one of the best deals in electrostatics considering the regularly go for 25 to 50% less than the electret SR-80s do._

 

Thanks, Carl. Why would they not be SR-5NBs? What do they look like?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do they look like?_

 

Like a SR-5N (black/gold) but with a cheap ribbon cable rather than one of those kettle power cords.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like a SR-5N (black/gold) but with a cheap ribbon cable rather than one of those kettle power cords._

 

Now I AM confused! What does the 'kettle power cord' cable look like? I assumed that flat cable was flat/ribbon cable (varying in thickness and width, of course)?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I AM confused! What does the 'kettle power cord' cable look like? I assumed that flat cable was flat/ribbon cable (varying in thickness and width, of course)?_

 

Same as the one on the SR-Xmk3.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Here's a snap of the SR-5s and SRD-6/SB:


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a snap of the SR-5s and SRD-6/SB:_

 

Cheers. That's been recabled, 100% sure.


 Here's what it normally looks like:


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* they are white (actually more cream) in colour (so, sadly, presumably not the Gold version, which are only in black?)*_*
*
*


It's inconsistent.
 Stax has sold SR-5 Gold in white housings and black housings in Germany.I know it for sure since I've once owned a white SR5 Gold.*


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's inconsistent.
 Stax has sold SR-5 Gold in white housings and black housings in Germany.I know it for sure since I've once owned a white SR5 Gold._

 

The whole "gold" label is a misnomer anyway. 

 The SR-5 New was an upgraded version of the SR-5 with the same driver as the SR-Xmk3, and all of them were black, but how they were sold outside Japan was typical confusing 80s Stax.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Calling all you Stax experts*:

 I have, at last, got myself a pair of SR-5s to compare with my SR-Xs (initial impression is that they are not nearly so behind the SR-Xs as I'd been led to believe they would be, by various postings on this thread... )

 Anyway, my question is, what model do I have? They were listed as plain SR-5s, but they have a flat cable (and spritzer, it's round at the insertion point, not square like the ones we both have, for our SR-Xs), they are white (actually more cream) in colour (so, sadly, presumably not the Gold version, which are only in black?), and the Stax labels have a gold background. Can't find the SN on the band, but the SR-6/SB that came with them is numbered in the 17000s. Any ideas? Are they SR-5Ns? Or will I need to post a snap?

 In any case, they're in great nick, and a bargain price (about 54 GBP), and very comfortable (I'm not mad keen on the SR-Xs actually pushing on my pinnae, so the semi-circumaural fit of the SR-5s is more comfortable for me, and of course the pads don't degenerate like those of the SR-Xs!)._

 

Congrats on getting the SR-5N 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (The gold labels give them away I think) They do seem to be recabled, which probably makes them an even better deal. 

 [owner's bias]I for one agree that the SR-Xmk3 isn't necessarily better than the SR-5N <_<[/owner's bias]


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The whole "gold" label is a misnomer anyway. 

 The SR-5 New was an upgraded version of the SR-5 with the same driver as the SR-Xmk3, and all of them were black, but how they were sold outside Japan was typical confusing 80s Stax._

 

No, in Germany they have sold (at least some) white SR-5 Gold equipped with 2 micron drivers.It's similar to SR 007s only available with brown pads in most parts of the world but optional with black pads/headband in parts of Europe and the US.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Crikey! And there was me thinking I'd get a definitive answer in moments. Now I've started a SR-5 N/NB/Gold Black/White/Cream war!

 a) Mine did indeed come from Germany.
 b) They're like the ones in Carl's snap, but have the flat cable and golden background to the metal badges (not chrome as in his pic), although the stirrup is chrome (not gold, which is what all the SR-5 Gold pictures I've seen have).

 I doubt these have been re-cabled...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Crikey! And there was me thinking I'd get a definitive answer in moments. Now I've started a SR-5 N/NB/Gold Black/White/Cream war!

 a) Mine did indeed come from Germany.
 b) They're like the ones in Carl's snap, but have the flat cable and golden background to the metal badges (not chrome as in his pic), although the stirrup is chrome (not gold, which is what all the SR-5 Gold pictures I've seen have).

 I doubt these have been re-cabled..._

 

They are the original SR-5N or gold as they were called by the Stax distributor in Germany. They had the SR-X drivers and used the original ribbon cable and it has a round strain relief. The SR-5NB came later (in 1985 I think) and had the black housing. The original SR-5 has a souped up SR-3N driver with silver name plates and a white cloth covered cable just like Carl's pic. 

 They do actually sound pretty good but I prefer the SR-3 to either the SR-3N or SR-5 because it's much more musical and has no real weaknesses but the 5N is a really nice phone. I guess I'm just a sucker for the thicker diaphragm...


----------



## spritzer

I just had to post this picture I found on ebay. What's wrong with it...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are the original SR-5N or gold as they were called by the Stax distributor in Germany. They had the SR-X drivers and used the original ribbon cable and it has a round strain relief. The SR-5NB came later (in 1985 I think) and had the black housing. The original SR-5 has a souped up SR-3N driver with silver name plates and a white cloth covered cable just like Carl's pic. 

 They do actually sound pretty good but I prefer the SR-3 to either the SR-3N or SR-5 because it's much more musical and has no real weaknesses but the 5N is a really nice phone. I guess I'm just a sucker for the thicker diaphragm... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So they ARE the SR-5 Golds! Yippee! Lucky me! That might also explain why there isn't the vast gulf in sound compared to the SR-Xs that I'd been expecting, since the diaphragm's the same...

 Now why have I not noticed anywhere before that the SR-5N is the SAME as the SR-5 Gold ( ...not that I'm questioning your knowledge, spritzer!, but, assuming you're correct, that would explain why the Stax Japan history site doesn't list the Golds).

 Shame you've added that last bit about the SR-3s, now I'll be tempted to hunt down a pair of those as well (and there was me just a few days ago promising SWMBO that the SR-5s were the end of my headphone purchases -- leaving my SR-007 lust 'til later... ).


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




 I just had to post this picture I found on ebay. What's wrong with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

a) the ones in the bottom right picture have been dropped and don't look like they'd go for much on eBay,

 b) the woman's ears must face backwards.


----------



## Duggeh

Hey, for all we know, you're supposed to wear them that way and everyone had been doing it wrong for decades.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So they ARE the SR-5 Golds! Yippee! Lucky me! That might also explain why there isn't the vast gulf in sound compared to the SR-Xs that I'd been expecting, since the diaphragm's the same...

 Now why have I not noticed anywhere before that the SR-5N is the SAME as the SR-5 Gold ( ...not that I'm questioning your knowledge, spritzer!, but, assuming you're correct, that would explain why the Stax Japan history site doesn't list the Golds).

 Shame you've added that last bit about the SR-3s, now I'll be tempted to hunt down a pair of those as well (and there was me just a few days ago promising SWMBO that the SR-5s were the end of my headphone purchases -- leaving my SR-007 lust 'til later... )._

 

The Gold wasn't released in Japan and was only made for the European distributors. Stax finally released them to the rest of the world as the *NB* in 1985, the same headphone, just a different color. The distributors called the shots back in the day and thats why the Stax lineup is so confusing. To further complicate things both SR-5N and NB were available with the cloth covered cable, presumably because the ribbon was more expensive. 

 The SR-3 isn't as detailed but adds that extra x-factor that was lost on the later models. It is hard to find one in good condition these days but they aren't really that expensive. 

 You don't want to know how often I've said "this is the last headphone I'm going to buy"... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_a) the ones in the bottom right picture have been dropped and don't look like they'd go for much on eBay,

 b) the woman's ears must face backwards._

 

They've just disassembled them on the lower picture. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, for all we know, you're supposed to wear them that way and everyone had been doing it wrong for decades._

 

You might be onto something... ohh right I've read the manual so no...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just had to post this picture I found on ebay. What's wrong with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Clearly she likes it from behind.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Clearly she likes it from behind._

 

¬_¬


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Clearly she likes it from behind._

 

Ehhhhh... ok...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ehhhhh... ok... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Behind the ear that is.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Behind the ear that is._

 

Right... you say that now!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right... you say that now! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I thought it went without saying.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought it went without saying. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

You thought wrong... or maybe it's just me


----------



## Carl




----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My ESC-1001 hit Canadian customs this morning... so close, yet so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cleared customs...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Gold wasn't released in Japan and was only made for the European distributors. Stax finally released them to the rest of the world as the *NB* in 1985, the same headphone, just a different color. The distributors called the shots back in the day and thats why the Stax lineup is so confusing. To further complicate things both SR-5N and NB were available with the cloth covered cable, presumably because the ribbon was more expensive._

 

Just to get this thread back where it belongs (you boys, you are awful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !)...

 Thanks for the info, spritzer: so I've definitely got a Stax SR-5 Gold (European market) or N (ROTW), but presumably not the N*B*, if the 'B' stands for black?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Ok, I'm done... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to get this thread back where it belongs (you boys, you are awful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !)...

 Thanks for the info, spritzer: so I've definitely got a Stax SR-5 Gold (European market) or N (ROTW), but presumably not the N*B*, if the 'B' stands for black?_

 

I think it was only called gold by the German distributor but I don't know if he sold in any other countries. The "Gold" sticker had the German Stax distributors logo on it at least on some I've seen so I'm fairly certain. The *B* stands for black and the *N* for "new". The distributors had a lot to say back in the day and that is why some models are more common in some areas, like the SR-5N or NB in Germany while they are very few and far between in the USA.


----------



## derekbmn

Spritzer... have you made any progress on your Lenco project ??


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it was only called gold by the German distributor but I don't know if he sold in any other countries. The "Gold" sticker had the German Stax distributors logo on it at least on some I've seen so I'm fairly certain. The *B* stands for black and the *N* for "new". The distributors had a lot to say back in the day and that is why some models are more common in some areas, like the SR-5N or NB in Germany while they are very few and far between in the USA._

 

Thanks for this, spritzer: I like things to be organised and systematic (and logical!) so this distributor-holding-sway business clears up alot of the confusion (or it at least means I just have to accept the fuzziness!).

 As to the SR-5 Ns themselves: lovely sound, much more sound (head-?)stage than the SR-Xs, but perhaps not quite so beguiling and open on voices, and other mid-range instruments. Very enjoyable to listen to, but having said initially that I preferred the (semi-)circumaural fit, I find the head-band being in 2 parts (not covered by one piece of vinyl as is the SR-X's) less comfortable on my tonsure (actually, my bald head... ).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer... have you made any progress on your Lenco project ??_

 

Nope, the seller hasn't even shipped it yet because he's trying to find a cheaper way to ship them, even though I've told him I'm fine with it. I haven't payed for it yet so I'll just buy a new one. I'm still trying to figure out how much I'm going to spend on this project so the choice of arm and cartridge is still undecided. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for this, spritzer: I like things to be organised and systematic (and logical!) so this distributor-holding-sway business clears up alot of the confusion (or it at least means I just have to accept the fuzziness!).

 As to the SR-5 Ns themselves: lovely sound, much more sound (head-?)stage than the SR-Xs, but perhaps not quite so beguiling and open on voices, and other mid-range instruments. Very enjoyable to listen to, but having said initially that I preferred the (semi-)circumaural fit, I find the head-band being in 2 parts (not covered by one piece of vinyl as is the SR-X's) less comfortable on my tonsure (actually, my bald head... )._

 

Great to hear you like the SR-5. The headband issue could be fixed if you buy a SR-3 (either version) because you can adjust the two arcs so it might be more comfortable. 

 In other new I just got my Koss ESP10. Pics will have to wait until tomorrow or Saturday the latest but the transformer box is a brute. It must weigh at least 3kg and is easily the largest ever made, about the same in volume as a SRM-313. The two illuminated VU meters are a great touch. The earpads were completely flat and useless but my old SR-007 pads fit like a charm but they aren't firm enough so the drivers push onto my ears. They need to be fitted with some new foam but at present they are dark and closed in but with remarkable detail. The midrange is laid back and there is some grain there but the system setup is far from ideal so I'll blame it for now. The bass is subtle and reminds me of the He90 as it is there but not in any force. That might change with some better pads and/or some new foam. 

 There isn't much inside the earcup except foam but there is a cap and a resistor on the driver but no other circuitry. I'll know when I open the E/10 if it is an easy mod over to the Stax standard. It uses the 5 pin plug so an inline adapter is easy to fabricate.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
My ESC-1001 hit Canadian customs this morning... so close, yet so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

Cleared customs..._

 

Picked 'er up at the post office today. Another ~$100CDN in duty brought the total price to just under $800CDN. Ouchie! Unfortunately it is 17:00h, and I have another 5 hours of work (started at 07:00h this morning, sigh...) until I get to go home and play with it, it has to sit in my trunk for now


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Picked 'er up at the post office today. Another ~$100CDN in duty brought the total price to just under $800CDN. Ouchie! Unfortunately it is 17:00h, and I have another 5 hours of work (started at 07:00h this morning, sigh...) until I get to go home and play with it, it has to sit in my trunk for now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ouch, that's got to be one long day of work, you'll be counting the minutes. I hope when you do get a listen all is good and it sounds better than you'd hoped for. You'll be using it with the SR-404 correct? Looking forward to your impressions.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch, that's got to be one long day of work, you'll be counting the minutes. I hope when you do get a listen all is good and it sounds better than you'd hoped for. You'll be using it with the SR-404 correct? Looking forward to your impressions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup, painful day. Oh well, it pays the bills... and buys the toys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 SR-404 for now.

 OK, so initial impressions: the ESC-1001 is not hugely improved over my hacked SRD-7/Pro with the input leads to the transformers wired straight to the speaker terminals. Not to say there aren't subtle improvements, pretty much every aspect is a notch improved. The bass is even better, very punchy. Things like hand drums are quite a bit more "palpable". The sense of space around the instruments is improved. It is overall extremely satisfying. I hang out in an analog 24-track studio from time to time, I was there last night, and when you're listening to stuff straight off the 24-track tape it sounds extremely vivid. The sense of "you are there" is spectacular. My system was already the closest I have been to feeling that same level outside of the studio, but the ESC-1001 brings it an appreciable step closer. I am actually very satisfied, and for the first time don't find myself longing for more.

 ...so it must be time to add SR-007s to the equation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I wonder if I'd like the SR-4070s...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, so initial impressions: the ESC-1001 is not hugely improved over my hacked SRD-7/Pro with the input leads to the transformers wired straight to the speaker terminals. Not to say there aren't subtle improvements, pretty much every aspect is a notch improved. The bass is even better, very punchy. Things like hand drums are quite a bit more "palpable". The sense of space around the instruments is improved. It is overall extremely satisfying. I hang out in an analog 24-track studio from time to time, I was there last night, and when you're listening to stuff straight off the 24-track tape it sounds extremely vivid. The sense of "you are there" is spectacular. My system was already the closest I have been to feeling that same level outside of the studio, but the ESC-1001 brings it an appreciable step closer. I am actually very satisfied, and for the first time don't find myself longing for more._

 

Very interesting, glad it's proved a good buy. You mention that it's not hugely improved over your hacked SRD-7 Pro but from memory that was quite a step over the stock SRD-7 Pro? I really must continue with my own experiments too, I just need to pick up a few more bits and pieces.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...so it must be time to add SR-007s to the equation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if I'd like the SR-4070s..._

 

I have no doubt that you would.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, so initial impressions: the ESC-1001 is not hugely improved over my hacked SRD-7/Pro with the input leads to the transformers wired straight to the speaker terminals. Not to say there aren't subtle improvements, pretty much every aspect is a notch improved. The bass is even better, very punchy. Things like hand drums are quite a bit more "palpable". The sense of space around the instruments is improved. It is overall extremely satisfying. I hang out in an analog 24-track studio from time to time, I was there last night, and when you're listening to stuff straight off the 24-track tape it sounds extremely vivid. The sense of "you are there" is spectacular. My system was already the closest I have been to feeling that same level outside of the studio, but the ESC-1001 brings it an appreciable step closer. I am actually very satisfied, and for the first time don't find myself longing for more._

 

Thanks a lot for the impressions.
 Great to hear comment on how it compare against the SRD-7 Pro, which I know pretty well.

  Quote:


 ...so it must be time to add SR-007s to the equation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I am sure you want one!


----------



## derekbmn

As said before ...Thank's for the impressions Jeff !!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I look forward to your long term thoughts. It sometimes takes some time for a negative(s) to show up... Case in point... A long way back in this thread I posted about some (unexpected) improvements when I changed the plug and shortened the power cord on my SRD-7 Pro. I also ran an external ground wire to the case. I was blown away at first... but over time I started to get the feeling that something wasn't quite right I listened and listenend trying to put my finger on it. It finally hit me ...Where did the the body of the music go ? It was weak sounding and I realized the music just wasn't moving me the way it was before the change. No more foot tapping ,air drumming etc.
 I thought about it and Voila it hit me . POLARITY !!... yes it's AC but their is a + regardless. I pulled the plug apart swapped the wires and boom everything that was missing was back and then some. Just thought I would share on how important long term listening is and how quick and short term impressions can often be misleading.


----------



## feckn_eejit

I have a busy work weekend as well, but hopefully I'll be able to spend some time with the new toy. Preliminary impression from my perspective is it was worth the cost. I enjoy the sound of the X250.5/ESC-1001/SR-404 setup more than I enjoyed the Singlepower ES-1/SR-007 I heard at akwok's place, with the same source (mine).

 The hacked SRD-7/Pro was not an insignificant improvement over stock. Every area of performance was improved by significant margins. The ESC-1001 would kill the stock SRD-7/Pro, but in hacked form it is not a massive improvement. I still don't regret it as I now get to un-hack the SRD-7/Pro and return it to much more convenient and usable configuration. Not sure whether I'll sell it on yet


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As said before ...Thank's for the impressions Jeff !!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I look forward to your long term thoughts. It sometimes takes some time for a negative(s) to show up... Case in point... A long way back in this thread I posted about some (unexpected) improvements when I changed the plug and shortened the power cord on my SRD-7 Pro. I also ran an external ground wire to the case. I was blown away at first... but over time I started to get the felling that something wasn't quite right I listened and listenend trying to put my finger on it. It finally hit me ...Where did the the body of the music go ? It was weak sounding and I realized the music just wasn't moving me the way it was before the change. No more foot tapping ,air drumming etc.
 I thought about it and Voila it hit me . POLARITY !!... yes it's AC but their is a + regardless. I pulled the plug apart swapped the wires and boom everything that was missing was back and then some. Just thought I would share on how important long term listening is and how quick and short term impressions can often be misleading._

 

Interesting, my old Stax SRA12S amp prefers one polarity over the other even though the plug is not polarized. I have a little gizmo which you place near a component to see if the polarization is optimal. It picks up electrical noise outside the component. The best polarity is that which ends up giving the least noise.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a busy work weekend as well, but hopefully I'll be able to spend some time with the new toy. Preliminary impression from my perspective is it was worth the cost. I enjoy the sound of the X250.5/ESC-1001/SR-404 setup more than I enjoyed the Singlepower ES-1/SR-007 I heard at akwok's place, with the same source (mine).

 The hacked SRD-7/Pro was not an insignificant improvement over stock. Every area of performance was improved by significant margins. The ESC-1001 would kill the stock SRD-7/Pro, but in hacked form it is not a massive improvement. I still don't regret it as I now get to un-hack the SRD-7/Pro and return it to much more convenient and usable configuration. Not sure whether I'll sell it on yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Glad to see a fellow 404 enthusiast. I personally am very happy with the 404 run off a Stax 717 amp. Its tendency to upper mid/lower treble harshness went away when I treated the power cords, prongs etc. with Mapleshade's Silclear, a silver-based contact enhancer. You might want to check it out.
 More bass, detail, etc.


----------



## spritzer

The ESP10 “Auditor” was introduced in the late seventies (77-78) and ceased production in 1984. A pretty short run for a Koss phone and I suspect the SR-Lambdas had something to do with that since there wasn’t an immediate replacement. They are semi open, but employ the felt pads Koss used on the previous ESP models behind the drivers as well a double layer of foam inside the ear cups, so sound leaking is minimal. There are no PCB’s inside the cups but there are passive parts and a forth terminal on the driver that I haven’t investigated further. The phones are functionally perfect so I’m not going to tear the drivers apart just for sport. They have a ribbon cable that precedes the Stax one but Koss, in the infinite knowledge, made it coiled. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There isn’t any metal in the housing but instead are there 3 pieces of plastic sandwiched together. It not a bad design but not nearly as solid as the ESP9. While they use the Stax plug it isn’t the same standard and they will not work on a Stax amp, unmodified. 





 The earpads were useless so I put on some of my older, discarded SR-007 pads and they work very well. These pads aren’t as firm as they used to be so my ears touched the driver grill and to remedy that I stuck a few pieces of foam underneath the perimeter of the pad and lifted it a few mm’s. With the Stax pads they are by far the most comfortable Koss phone I’ve tried and the headband actually is big enough for my head, a welcome change. 





 The E/10 adapter is a big brute and about 5 times as big as a SRD-7. The transformers alone wouldn’t fit inside the Stax unit. I really like the two VU meters, completely unnecessary but add a certain vintage flair to it. The bias supply is powered by a small 6VA AC wallwart. 

 For further pictures go to my gallery at photo.head-fi.org

 The sound is dark and dynamic like the rest of the Koss phones but gone is the slumber of the ESP6 and ESP9. The treble is subdued but with remarkable detail and never bright or harsh but is slightly blown out of proportions. They are closed in compared to any of the Lambda phones but it’s only really noticeable in direct comparisons. The midrange is a bit recessed (a lot like the Lambda Pro) and a bit thin. This leads to some nasality with voices and causes instruments to a have a slightly altered timbre. The bass is taught and fast with decent extension but the Lambdas are much better. Their main strength is musicality and that they are simply a lot of fun to listen to. You want to hear the next song and that is sadly often lost. So highly recommended if you can get them at a good price. 

 I believe the ESP10 has the biggest mod potential of any of the older ‘stats. The drivers are easy to mount onto a new housing and the SR-007 earpads are a perfect fit and very comfy. I’m going to let this set remain stock but I’ll find another one and design a new housing and convert them to the Stax standard.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The earpads were useless so I put on some of my older, discarded SR-007 pads and they work very well. These pads aren’t as firm as they used to be so my ears touched the driver grill and to remedy that I stuck a few pieces of foam underneath the perimeter of the pad and lifted it a few mm’s. With the Stax pads they are by far the most comfortable Koss phone I’ve tried and the headband actually is big enough for my head, a welcome change. 
_

 

You might want to check with Koss about a replacement earpad. They are pretty good about these if they still have any stock or can provide a substitute earpad as they do with the ESP6 and 9.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You might want to check with Koss about a replacement earpad. They are pretty good about these if they still have any stock or can provide a substitute earpad as they do with the ESP6 and 9._

 

I might actually have replacement earpads here because the ESP10 is of a similar vintage and design as one of my fathers old Koss phones. I'll check if it fits but I don't really want to use the crappy vinyl Koss pads so I'll stick with the leather


----------



## drp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still don't regret it as I now get to un-hack the SRD-7/Pro and return it to much more convenient and usable configuration. Not sure whether I'll sell it on yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Any chance you could first snap a few pix of the guts and maybe elaborate more on the connection changes? I have a SRD-7 Pro that's screaming (or maybe that's my HE60s) to be mod'd. I do not have speakers connected so like the idea of eliminating at least that part of the circuit.


----------



## derekbmn

Gotta love garage sales !!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotta love garage sales !!
 http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/medium/Monarch_amp_006.jpg[/IMG
 [IMG]http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/medium/Monarch_amp_003.jpg[/IMG
 [IMG]http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/medium/Monarch_amp_005.jpg[/IMG[/i]
 [/td] [/tr] [/table]


Very nice!! Push-pull EL84's?_


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotta love garage sales !!
http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/me...ch_amp_006.jpg
http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/me...ch_amp_003.jpg
http://photo.head-fi.org/data/500/me...ch_amp_005.jpg_

 

Monarch integrated tube amplifier. For electrostatic headphones?


----------



## derekbmn

2-12ax7s 4-6bm8s and a 6ca4 (rectification).
 I have not decided what i'm going to do with it yet . Just been carefully getting it cleaned up first.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any chance you could first snap a few pix of the guts and maybe elaborate more on the connection changes? I have a SRD-7 Pro that's screaming (or maybe that's my HE60s) to be mod'd. I do not have speakers connected so like the idea of eliminating at least that part of the circuit._

 

There's not much to show. I simply desoldered the black and yellow leads from the circuit board that go to the two step up transformers, and attached those wires directly to the output terminals of my power amp. It is very inconvenient as the leads are very short, I had to raise the SRD-7/Pro up with a stack of CDs. It may not work for you at all depending on the arrangement of the output terminals of your power amp.


----------



## drp

Thanks for the post; will take a peek inside.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's not much to show. I simply desoldered the black and yellow leads from the circuit board that go to the two step up transformers, and attached those wires directly to the output terminals of my power amp. It is very inconvenient as the leads are very short, I had to raise the SRD-7/Pro up with a stack of CDs. It may not work for you at all depending on the arrangement of the output terminals of your power amp._


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the post; will take a peek inside._

 

Due to the "rarity" of the SRD-7/Pro, I'd encourage you to do it in such a way that it can be cleanly undone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You are in for a not-suble-at-all improvement though. If you want to forgo the madness, an ESC-1001 transformer box provides even more benefit


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2-12ax7s 4-6bm8s and a 6ca4 (rectification).
 I have not decided what i'm going to do with it yet . Just been carefully getting it cleaned up first._

 

That's an easy dilemma. Just put a Stax socket on it and connect it with a switch before the output trafos, instant Stax amp.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's an easy dilemma. Just put a Stax socket on it and connect it with a switch before the output trafos, instant Stax amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Would it really be that easy ?? The thought had actually crossed my mind , but I am unsure of what actually has to be done.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2-12ax7s 4-6bm8s and a 6ca4 (rectification).
 I have not decided what i'm going to do with it yet . Just been carefully getting it cleaned up first._

 

I've never even heard of 6BM8s before. One of those high-mu triode/power pentode pairings it seems.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would it really be that easy ?? The thought had actually crossed my mind , but I am unsure of what actually has to be done._

 

Well, you'd need a bias supply and it'd be worth checking out how much DC was present behind the transformers. If it was me, I'd have no issue with running a cheaper, replaceable headphone that way - it'd be good sound on the cheap - but I'd make sure I was up with what was happening electrically before I drove an HE90 or O2 that way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would it really be that easy ?? The thought had actually crossed my mind , but I am unsure of what actually has to be done._

 

It should be. I've never done it my self but you should ask Kevin Gilmore if he can help you with it.


----------



## randerson3024

The jury is still out, but so far, my HE 60's configured for Stax sound really good with the new SRM-727; better, in fact, than the 4070's, although, I think they need more break in time.


----------



## drp

Break in? The 4070s? Being new to electrostatics in general, I've been wondering . . . what is the break in for electrostatic headphones? Is it the same where some element goes through a range of motion until it reaches a normal/maximum range of movement? RE: My HE60s had a channel imbalance where it took considerably longer for the right channel to charge up (is that the right term?), so I called Sennheiser in CT and in the end sent them in for brand new elements. So, I in affect have a new pair of HE60s that I am breaking in.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh cool; a vote for HE60s and SS Stax. I still need a proper amp for my HE60 (but just spent all coin on final dynamic rig pieces), but am having fun with the SRD-7 Pro. I actually just (2 minutes ago) took off the cover to see what's inside. The urge to pirate the minimally-needed parts and stick them in a case with a highly modified Super T amp (minus pot as well) with a 12V battery is a strong one. Why? Just because..... However, it is a rare item and at some point another Head-Fier will need it (like I did) so I'll resist the urge, for now..... Or, at some point be prepared to put the SRD back to factory config as advised a few posts above.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The jury is still out, but so far, my HE 60's configured for Stax sound really good with the new SRM-727; better, in fact, than the 4070's, although, I think they need more break in time._


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never even heard of 6BM8s before. One of those high-mu triode/power pentode pairings it seems._

 

That makes two of us. But yes your correct in that it has both a triode and a pentode section. I have been digging around for info and it seems it's quite a unique tube.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, you'd need a bias supply and it'd be worth checking out how much DC was present behind the transformers. If it was me, I'd have no issue with running a cheaper, replaceable headphone that way - it'd be good sound on the cheap - but I'd make sure I was up with what was happening electrically before I drove an HE90 or O2 that way._

 

Yeah I don't think I would put the O2s on it until I was darned sure everything was 101% safe.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Break in? The 4070s? Being new to electrostatics in general, I've been wondering . . . what is the break in for electrostatic headphones? Is it the same where some element goes through a range of motion until it reaches a normal/maximum range of movement?_

 

A fresh driver needs well over 130 hours to "mellow out". This will depend on how much tension is applied during manufacture but it is a good rule of thumb. The mylar is still uneven from the stretching process and the glue isn't perfect so the mylar needs to flex. The mylar is smoother under a microscope after this time so it is ironing it self out. The drivers are measured and matched during production so there is some use there but we don't know how much so it's fair to assume that they aren't fully run in when shipped out.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The jury is still out, but so far, my HE 60's configured for Stax sound really good with the new SRM-727; better, in fact, than the 4070's, although, I think they need more break in time._

 

Great to see that you enjoy the HE60. You even rank it above the Omega II...
 That makes me _very_ curious about the HE60. So much that it has now entered my WTB list...


----------



## Duggeh

The He60 and the O2 are very different beasts indeed. I'm looking forward to a nice long listen with them next time Milkpowder and I get together.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Break in? The 4070s? Being new to electrostatics in general, I've been wondering . . . what is the break in for electrostatic headphones? Is it the same where some element goes through a range of motion until it reaches a normal/maximum range of movement? RE: My HE60s had a channel imbalance where it took considerably longer for the right channel to charge up (is that the right term?), so I called Sennheiser in CT and in the end sent them in for brand new elements. So, I in affect have a new pair of HE60s that I am breaking in.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm just wondering for the sake of knowing: how much did the new stators cost?
  Quote:


 Oh cool; a vote for HE60s and SS Stax. I still need a proper amp for my HE60 (but just spent all coin on final dynamic rig pieces), but am having fun with the SRD-7 Pro. I actually just (2 minutes ago) took off the cover to see what's inside. The urge to pirate the minimally-needed parts and stick them in a case with a highly modified Super T amp (minus pot as well) with a 12V battery is a strong one. Why? Just because..... However, it is a rare item and at some point another Head-Fier will need it (like I did) so I'll resist the urge, for now..... Or, at some point be prepared to put the SRD back to factory config as advised a few posts above. 
 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The jury is still out, but so far, my HE 60's configured for Stax sound really good with the new SRM-727; better, in fact, than the 4070's, although, I think they need more break in time._

 

Interesting. Does the HE60 really work with SS Stax? I found it ever so slightly on the bright side with the 717. The sound is extremely precise, but lacks a warm presentation. Anyone compared the 727 and the 717? I'm also interested in how the SRM-007tII works with the HE60.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The He60 and the O2 are very different beasts indeed. I'm looking forward to a nice long listen with them next time Milkpowder and I get together._

 

You bet! Late August?


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to see that you enjoy the HE60. You even rank it above the Omega II...
 That makes me very curious about the HE60. So much that it has now entered my WTB list... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 My problem is that my Omega II's and SRM-007t are at home, and my 4070's and HE 60's are here on the boat. I bought the HE 60's from another forum member, so they are obviously broken in. They are very "forward" and resolve high frequencies beautifully. The 4070's resolve deeper bass a little better. I had one too many single malts the night I ordered the SRM-727, I actually meant to order the SRM-007tII and did not realize it until the amp arrived. I much prefer tube sound, but instead of ordering the SRM-007tII, I am going to wait a couple of months and order Justin's Blue Hawaii Special Edition once I have recovered from some horrendously expensive and unexpected repairs to my house. I believe it will be worth the wait. I also have the Aristeaus waiting for me at home, and I plan on using the Omega II's with it, as well as some HE 90's whenever karma will bring them into my life.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm just wondering for the sake of knowing: how much did the new stators cost?



 Interesting. Does the HE60 really work with SS Stax? I found it ever so slightly on the bright side with the 717. The sound is extremely precise, but lacks a warm presentation. Anyone compared the 727 and the 717? I'm also interested in how the SRM-007tII works with the HE60.


 You bet! Late August?_

 


 I wish I knew! I could just kill myself for sending my Omega II's and SRM-007t home. I did it because of an ungodly noisy vent duct in my stateroom that could be heard through the headphones. It just drove me nuts. Oddly enough, I have been listening to the HE 60's at the same time that my new GS-X arrived with balanced Cardas cables for my HD 650's. The sound is so different. I am also swapping cables around like crazy, back and forth with XLR's for each listening session. Right now I am using Valhallas. It may sound like bragging here, but I can't articulate just how good this new Esoteric P-03/D-03 combination sounds! I can also say that the Shunyata Hydra and Python power cords make a significant improvement in all the amplifiers I have, especially the EAR HP-4.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My problem is that my Omega II's and SRM-007t are at home, and my 4070's and HE 60's are here on the boat. I bought the HE 60's from another forum member, so they are obviously broken in. They are very "forward" and resolve high frequencies beautifully. The 4070's resolve deeper bass a little better. I had one too many single malts the night I ordered the SRM-727, I actually meant to order the SRM-007tII and did not realize it until the amp arrived. I much prefer tube sound, but instead of ordering the SRM-007tII, I am going to wait a couple of months and order Justin's Blue Hawaii Special Edition once I have recovered from some horrendously expensive and unexpected repairs to my house. I believe it will be worth the wait. I also have the Aristeaus waiting for me at home, and I plan on using the Omega II's with it, as well as some HE 90's whenever karma will bring them into my life.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

"Forward" is exactly what I thought the HE60 sounded like when using the 717. My retubed 006t really does make everything less forward and relaxed without losing out on much resolution. Personally, I think I prefer the 006t over the 717 simply due to better synergy with the HE60. Please oh please do a comparison of the 007tII and the 727 when you get home! Throw in the Aristeaus for gags
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish I knew! I could just kill myself for sending my Omega II's and SRM-007t home. I did it because of an ungodly noisy vent duct in my stateroom that could be heard through the headphones. It just drove me nuts. Oddly enough, I have been listening to the HE 60's at the same time that my new GS-X just arrived with balanced Cardas cables for my HD 650's. The sound is so different. I am also swapping cables around like crazy, back and forth with XLR's for each listening session. Right now I am using Valhallas. It may sound like bragging here, but I can't articulate just how good this new Esoteric P-03/D-03 combination sounds! I can also say that the Shunyata Hydra and Python power cord makes a significant improvement in all the amplifiers I have, especially the EAR HP-4._

 

You're using: Shun. Hydra -> Python -> P-03 -> D-03 -> Valhalla -> 727 -> HE60
 I'm using: unfiltered wall -> PS Aud. Statement SC -> X-03SE -> Abbey Road Monitor bal. ICs -> 006t -> HE60 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My stuff sounds good already, but yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 must sound... I can't think of a word that might describe it? You have every right to brag
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you find the bass rolling off a bit early in your rig? I'm just wondering whether higher end gear can alleviate this problem the HE60 has in my rig (even when compared to the HD650, which has a fuller, mellower, deeper bass). Maybe higher-end amplification with more power can also help the bass.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Forward" is exactly what I thought the HE60 sounded like when using the 717. My retubed 006t really does make everything less forward and relaxed without losing out on much resolution. Personally, I think I prefer the 006t over the 717 simply due to better synergy with the HE60. Please oh please do a comparison of the 007tII and the 727 when you get home! Throw in the Aristeaus for gags
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 You're using: Shun. Hydra -> Python -> P-03 -> D-03 -> Valhalla -> 727 -> HE60
 I'm using: unfiltered wall -> PS Aud. Statement SC -> X-03SE -> Abbey Road Monitor bal. ICs -> 006t -> HE60 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My stuff sounds good already, but yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 must sound... I can't think of a word that might describe it? You have every right to brag
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you find the bass rolling off a bit early in your rig? I'm just wondering whether higher end gear can alleviate this problem the HE60 has in my rig (even when compared to the HD650, which has a fuller, mellower, deeper bass). Maybe higher-end amplification with more power can also help the bass._

 


 Good point! The bass does roll off a little early, but not as much as with the 4070's. The 727 has a feature that allows for driving of the amp with an external preamp. I am thinking of trying it with the GS-X. The only problem there is that I don't have two sets of identical XLR's out here. 

 Your description of the HD 650 is exactly right, as well as the fact that they are not nearly as fast on the higher frequencies as the HE 60's, or any electrostatic speaker for that matter, and over the years, I have come to prefer that sound, both in my headphones and loudspeakers (Magnepan, not electrostatic, planar, but almost identical in sound characteristics).

 While you can improve your source, we both know the "Esoteric" sound, so I doubt it would completely alleviate that problem. Maybe I can help you a bit with that test. I just received my DV 60 (for DVD and DVD-A), I can compare it to the P-03/D-03 and let you know how different they are, of course your system is better than the DV 60, so it may not be that helpful, but fun to try. I may sound like a paid Shunyata lobbyist, but I can tell you that thier products have dramatically improved my system, and I was none too thrilled about the cost! $1000 x how many components I have for the Pythons, and $2,000 for the Hydra 8. They now have a V-Ray at $3,000; I have one at home, but have not been able to listen to it yet. It will be used with my dCS and turntable.

 It may take some time, but over the next couple of weeks, I may be able to have some decent insights. The HE 60's and HD 650's sound so different that I don't like to sit and A/B them, I prefer to listen to one set one evening, and the other on another evening. I do think the GS-X is going to be very good, and I do like the HD 650's. The HE 60's were an unexpected surprise.

 Cheers,

 Bob


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good point! The bass does roll off a little early, but not as much as with the 4070's._

 

Then there must be something seriously amiss. My 4070s have crazy bass extention, sub 25Hz with minimal rolloff, whereas the HE60s are struggling at 40Hz.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You bet! Late August?_

 

Sounds Good.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then there must be something seriously amiss. My 4070s have crazy bass extention, sub 25Hz with minimal rolloff, whereas the HE60s are struggling at 40Hz._

 


 Could it be break in time? It took forever for my Omega II's to break in.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could it be break in time? It took forever for my Omega II's to break in._

 

Could be or the SRM-727 just can't drive the 4070 to their full potential. Any Stax headphone ever made will kill the Sennheiser models in the bass department, even the 1968 SR-3 has much more bass then the HE-90 and they have in turn more bass then the HE-60


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be or the SRM-727 just can't drive the 4070 to their full potential. Any Stax headphone ever made will kill the Sennheiser models in the bass department, even the 1968 SR-3 has much more bass then the HE-90 and they have in turn more bass then the HE-60_

 

Interesting, I had not considered that, but I have noticed that I can turn the volume way up on the 4070's. I am going to order a Special Edition Blue Hawaii in a couple of months, I have high hopes for its performance. Thanks for the insight.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting, I had not considered that, but I have noticed that I can turn the volume way up on the 4070's. I am going to order a Special Edition Blue Hawaii in a couple of months, I have high hopes for its performance. Thanks for the insight._

 

The Blue Hawaii will be a big step up in driving ability. Buy some Mullard XF2's for it straight away. They are the only tubes you should use and they last forever. Be forewarned that while the amp is a killer partner to any Stax phones, the Sennheiser electrostats are a little cold and dry sounding. They need an amp that plays on their strengths and the brutal power and honesty of the BH is a bit much for them.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Blue Hawaii will be a big step up in driving ability. Buy some Mullard XF2's for it straight away. They are the only tubes you should use and they last forever. Be forewarned that while the amp is a killer partner to any Stax phones, the Sennheiser electrostats are a little cold and dry sounding. They need an amp that plays on their strengths and the brutal power and honesty of the BH is a bit much for them._

 

I agree with "little cold and dry sounding" (relative to other headphones and not to be taken as an absolute statement). What if you can't afford a BH? (let alone a Special Edition
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with "little cold and dry sounding" (relative to other headphones and not to be taken as an absolute statement). What if you can't afford a BH? (let alone a Special Edition
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

I could have worded that better but in comparison to my Stax collection that is a fair description of the sound signature. The BH exaggerates the true nature of the HE60/90 with it's brutal honesty so it is far from a good match. Neutrality can only be the ultimate goal in amp design if the phones can take it. I like the He90 much more out of my modded T1 then the BH and I guess that the Woo GES could be a nice match. I does need quite a few upgrades over stock to fully utilize the capabilities of the circuit but the phones deserve it. I'm going for a HEV90 clone my self and so is Carl but that is a much more expensive amp. It could be built pretty cheaply though is someone wanted to... like Sennheiser did


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could have worded that better but in comparison to my Stax collection that is a fair description of the sound signature. The BH exaggerates the true nature of the HE60/90 with it's brutal honesty so it is far from a good match. Neutrality can only be the ultimate goal in amp design if the phones can take it. I like the He90 much more out of my modded T1 then the BH and I guess that the Woo GES could be a nice match. I does need quite a few upgrades over stock to fully utilize the capabilities of the circuit but the phones deserve it. I'm going for a HEV90 clone my self and so is Carl but that is a much more expensive amp. It could be built pretty cheaply though is someone wanted to... like Sennheiser did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I'm in agreement with your assessment, I think the SRM 727 is lacking in the gonad department for the 4070's. I think the Aristeaus is just too rare and special to risk sending it to the ship, and I intend to use it with the dCS and Omega II's at home. I'm not sure what the difference will be with the Special Edition Blue Hawaii and the current version, but I think it will be an improvement over the SRM 727, it just doesn't drive the 4070's, and I want something that will. I would also like to have something at my disposal when I eventually (and patiently) find a pair of HE 90's.

 It's late here - have a good evening, and thanks for the tips.

 Bob


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in agreement with your assessment, I think the SRM 727 is lacking in the gonad department for the 4070's. I think the Aristeaus is just too rare and special to risk sending it to the ship, and I intend to use it with the dCS and Omega II's at home. I'm not sure what the difference will be with the Special Edition Blue Hawaii and the current version, but I think it will be an improvement over the SRM 727, it just doesn't drive the 4070's, and I want something that will. I would also like to have something at my disposal when I eventually (and patiently) find a pair of HE 90's.

 It's late here - have a good evening, and thanks for the tips.

 Bob_

 

From what I gather the Special Edition has a redesigned circuit board that uses side mounted heat sinks instead of the internal ones used in my units design. It has the 4 tier DACT volume control, a bad choice in my opinion, a similar case to the Aristaeus, Stax and HE90 jacks and presumably bias supplies, custom Plitron transformer, again not what I would have used, and it is supposed to be fully loaded so that would probably mean stranded teflon insulated silver input wire and Black Gate caps. 

 The Aristaeus should be a pretty good match to the He90 because the amp section is very similar to the HEV90. It has a much better power supply so that should help a lot.


----------



## feckn_eejit

A further SRD-7/Pro vs. Illusion ESC-1001 insight: the X250.5 is definitely working harder through the Illusion box. I can only presume the transformers are a lower ratio than the Stax box. The Stax box's literature says you shouldn't shove more than 30wpc through it. The X250.5's meter on the front indicates current draw by the output stages from the power supply. When it moves, you have left Class A (at about 35wpc in this model according to Nelson Pass). I have managed to get it to move into the SR-404s through the SRD-7/Pro, but it was ridiculously loud. My ears gave out before any point in the system. With something bassy like _Morph the Cat_ and the ESC-1001, it is not as hard... if I get a little carried away, we're quickly shoving more than 100, and that causes distortion, i'm guessing the transformers don't like it. This scares me as far as this setup's ability to power a pair of SR-007s to their full potential. As such I still think a better transformer box could be specced and built.


----------



## feckn_eejit

...but freaking heck does the ESC-1001 sound good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gaucho is spinning currently. I have listened to this album about sixty million times. I doubt I will ever hear new things again, but man... the subtleties sound absolutely spectacular now. Bernard Purdie's snare drum work on "Babylon Sisters" is spectacular - the subtle drops of the stick on the skin... his brilliance really shines through on this setup. Anyone else notice this is pretty much the same drum beat as "Home at Last"? On the "Classic Albums: Aja" DVD, The Hitmaker himself calls it the "Purdie Shuffle".

 Anthony Jackson's dexterous bass playing on "Glamour Profession" is deliciously articulate. Not a single note or subtlety of the performance is not abundantly clear.

 I'm seriously considering mutilating the ESC-1001, primarily to liberate it of the speakers/earspeakers switch.


----------



## derekbmn

Now you need to hear Gaucho on vinyl 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . It's sooooo much better than the cd. Congrat's on the Illusion transfomer, i've enjoyed your insights on it.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...but freaking heck does the ESC-1001 sound good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gaucho is spinning currently. I have listened to this album about sixty million times. I doubt I will ever hear new things again, but man... the subtleties sound absolutely spectacular now. Bernard Purdie's snare drum work on "Babylon Sisters" is spectacular - the subtle drops of the stick on the skin... his brilliance really shines through on this setup. Anyone else notice this is pretty much the same drum beat as "Home at Last"? On the "Classic Albums: Aja" DVD, The Hitmaker himself calls it the "Purdie Shuffle".

 Anthony Jackson's dexterous bass playing on "Glamour Profession" is deliciously articulate. Not a single note or subtlety of the performance is not abundantly clear.

 I'm seriously considering mutilating the ESC-1001, primarily to liberate it of the speakers/earspeakers switch._

 


 I have not heard of the ESC-1001. I must check this out. Are they expensive?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A further SRD-7/Pro vs. Illusion ESC-1001 insight: the X250.5 is definitely working harder through the Illusion box. I can only presume the transformers are a lower ratio than the Stax box. The Stax box's literature says you shouldn't shove more than 30wpc through it. The X250.5's meter on the front indicates current draw by the output stages from the power supply. When it moves, you have left Class A (at about 35wpc in this model according to Nelson Pass). I have managed to get it to move into the SR-404s through the SRD-7/Pro, but it was ridiculously loud. My ears gave out before any point in the system. With something bassy like _Morph the Cat_ and the ESC-1001, it is not as hard... if I get a little carried away, we're quickly shoving more than 100, and that causes distortion, i'm guessing the transformers don't like it. This scares me as far as this setup's ability to power a pair of SR-007s to their full potential. As such I still think a better transformer box could be specced and built._

 

I'm using the 25W/16Ω output rather than the 100W/4Ω output as it's too loud to be able to control the volume otherwise.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm seriously considering mutilating the ESC-1001, primarily to liberate it of the speakers/earspeakers switch._

 

I use it as a mute. The wire in there seems pretty good, and the switches are, I assume, made by Seiden which is another division of Tachyon.

 I've considered putting some higher spec transformers in mine. They're good, but certainly beatable.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not heard of the ESC-1001. I must check this out. Are they expensive?_

 

Yeah, fairly expensive. If you plan to put significant money into a transformer-box based setup then a better box than Stax's ones is highly recommended, but given the cost of the ESC-1001 and a good amp, you could just as easily by a nice direct-drive electrostat amp.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using the 25W/16Ω output rather than the 100W/4Ω output as it's too loud to be able to control the volume otherwise._

 

Don't have that luxury with the big 250W/8Ω beast... plus I've only got stepped attenuators, no pots... Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use it as a mute. The wire in there seems pretty good, and the switches are, I assume, made by Seiden which is another division of Tachyon._

 

Yeah, they don't look bad, but why have 'em there if I'm never gonna use 'em... Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've considered putting some higher spec transformers in mine. They're good, but certainly beatable._

 

I know next to BFA when it comes to transformers... if we can figure out what we need I'd certainly be willing to take a hit for the team and give this a shot. Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not heard of the ESC-1001. I must check this out. Are they expensive?_

 

Cost me just under $800 CDN all in. I firmly believe the arrangement has the potential to beat the best direct-drive electrostatic amps in some areas (not all, so it depends on your taste...), provided you've already got a really nice power amp to hook up to. Interestingly I prefer my ESC-1001/SR-404 setup to a Singlepower ES-1/SR-007 setup I heard at a meet recently...


----------



## feckn_eejit

Oooooooo, just put on Lindsey Buckingham's fantastic _Out of the Cradle_, which has always sounded excellent. There's a lot of subtleties going on here, different percussion subtleties, low-level guitar lines, it can get very complex and layered. I use this album a lot to judge digital sources - high levels of digital jitter destroy the clarity between the various lines and it turns into a mucky stew. A nice, resolving source makes it a cinch to follow any musical line I please.

 The ESC-1001 takes it to a new level with this album. I wasn't disappointed with the ESC-1001 from the get go, but it hadn't put my jaw on the floor until this... I thought I knew this very well but I am hearing new stuff again, and it's like "wow holy cow how did I not notice that before!! that sounds awesome!" over and over again!. The bass isn't as abundant or boomy as the SRD-7/Pro (even hacked), but it's more resolved and controlled. I am developing an even greater appreciation for one of my absolute favourite albums. Fantastic!


----------



## randerson3024

Thanks, guys, I will look into this; I am thinking of getting a Pathos integrated, it could be used in conjunction with the ESC-1001 and my AKG K1000's. The price is certainly less than I have spent on lots of other components.


----------



## krmathis

Well, I just ordered one of these from PriceJapan.
 The waiting game begins...


----------



## Downrange

Congrats! Looking forward to a full report!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats! Looking forward to a full report!_

 

Thanks!
 Excited to hear how they sound compared to the Omega II and Lambda Pro.


----------



## Carl

Finally bit the bullet, eh Kai? I hope you enjoy them.


----------



## Carl

Someone has bit 500 euros for a low bias Sigma.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-SIGMA-pa...QQcmdZViewItem

 Yuh huh.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Ouchie!


----------



## feckn_eejit

Ai ya! I'm just getting into my favourite Dire Straits album, _Communique_. It is kicking my ass like never before 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Total eargasm!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally bit the bullet, eh Kai? I hope you enjoy them._

 

Yes, finally! After looking into them the latest 8-9 months....

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone has bit 500 euros for a low bias Sigma.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-SIGMA-pa...QQcmdZViewItem

 Yuh huh._

 

Auch! Thats _way_ too expensive.


----------



## Rise To The Top

I have never lurked into this dark place before. I have one question. I MIGHT got electrostat after I complete my Dynamic setup. What are relitivly cheap options, and what do they sound good in?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Welcome to the Stax Thread. I'm sorry about your wallet.


----------



## Rise To The Top

^AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!! I promised my self to never get in this far, but reading Carl's old thread put thoughts in my head.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!! I promised my self to never get in this far, but reading Carl's old thread put thoughts in my head._

 

You're DOOMED! Get out now, while you still can!

 I innocently bought a Stax 2020 II system [= SR-202 Basic Earspeakers + SRM-212 Driver Unit] a couple of years back, then discovered this thread, and now I've just acquired my fifth set of Stax earspeakers (not to mention the fifth set of transfomers or amps), and am longing for more...

 Take a tip from an old codger with an empty wallet and a divorce-threatening wife: get out while you still can!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never lurked into this dark place before. I have one question. I MIGHT got electrostat after I complete my Dynamic setup. What are relitivly cheap options, and what do they sound good in?_

 

There are some cheap ways to enter the world of electrostatic headphones.
*Vintage systems:*
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7 -> ~$100-200
 * SR-Lambda and SRD-7 -> ~$150-250

*New system (from Japan):*
 * SR-001 MK2 -> $239
 * SRS-005A -> $399


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I just ordered one of these from PriceJapan.
 The waiting game begins... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 


 I very much like mine, and have yet to hear them with tubes........


----------



## Rise To The Top

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are some cheap ways to enter the world of electrostatic headphones.
*Vintage systems:*
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7 -> ~$100-200
 * SR-Lambda and SRD-7 -> ~$150-250

*New system (from Japan):*
 * Stax SR-001 MK2 -> $239
 * Stax SRS-005A -> $399_

 

How would Lambda's level up to HD650s? What are the cheaper options for some of the new non in ear systems?


----------



## siddiquehanif

Hi,

 i have tough decision diciding between the new stax 3050 system and old and highly praised SRM1-MKII


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would Lambda's level up to HD650s? What are the cheaper options for some of the new non in ear systems?_

 

I have not heard the SR-Lambda, so someone else have to comment on this one.
 The SRS-2050A (SR-202 and SRM-252A) are the cheapest full sized Stax system in production. Available from PriceJapan for $420


----------



## Rise To The Top

Say if I got SR202's... could I grab 404s later on and use the same amp?


----------



## siddiquehanif

sorry i accidently pressed enter before finishing my post!

 yes which system is better choice the new 3050 system (SR303+SRM-323) or the SRM1 MKII pro + Lambda pros!
 how is SRM1-MKII compare to the SRM-323 energizer alone pairing with other earspeaers!

 thanx in advance.


----------



## siddiquehanif

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Say if I got SR202's... could I grab 404s later on and use the same amp?_

 

yes u can use any of the current production earspeakers with the same amp! but i would suggest you to buy a better amp then 202 or atleast SRM-323!


----------



## siddiquehanif

you could also get used SRM1-MKII! but i m curios to know how is compares to SRM-323. any one is there to help!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry i accidently pressed enter before finishing my post!

 yes which system is better choice the new 3050 system (SR303+SRM-323) or the SRM1 MKII pro + Lambda pros!
 how is SRM1-MKII compare to the SRM-323 energizer alone pairing with other earspeaers!

 thanx in advance._

 

Generally Lambda Pros go for more than they're worth on the used market, so keep that in mind. In terms of 323 vs SRM-1mk2, the later has better parts so sounds a bit better. The 313/323 have suffered a bit at the hands of the bean counters.

 If it was me, I'd get an original Lambda or Lambda Signature and a SRM-T1 instead.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any one is there to help!_

 

At this time of day most of the world is either at sleep or at work. Only us folks in strange timezones are out posting right now.


----------



## siddiquehanif

Thank you very much carl! yes timezones do very drastically from place to place nyway in Dubai its now 5PM!

 So the SRM-MK2 is better! i have a chance to buy this unit at 350USD! is it a good price for this unit! the serial no. is A9869, it has one normal bias and one pro bias output and on top of chassis professional has been written and its in very good condition even it has original packing cartoon too!

 Lambda Signature and SRM-T1! Carl can u explain the sound signature of this combo vs lambda pro and SRM-MK2 combo!

 regards,


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Say if I got SR202's... could I grab 404s later on and use the same amp?_

 

You could. But it would be smarter to keep the 202 earspeakers and upgrade the amp to a used Stax tube amp.

 I have 202 and the 252A, which I bought with the idea of upgrading after I built a tube amp. I also had the 404 and the Omega II on loan. In my opinion, the greater part of the difference between the 202, the 303 and the 404 is in the accompanying amps. The amp with the 303 is very likely the gubbins of the amp with the 202 with merely a possibly better internal power supply rather than a wall wart; it makes a difference. The amp with the 404, if you buy the tube amp, definitely sounds better. I concluded two things:

 1. The earspeakers themselves might be the thing with the most sex appeal to the punters but it hardly matters which of the 202/303/404 you have. The first worthwhile upgrade from any of that lot is to an Omega.

 2. When you have any Stax electrostatic earspeaker, you're at the top of the mountain already. The differences between them is mainly caused by the amp you use them with. Therefore you may as well buy the cheapest earspeaker and put the rest of your money into the best amp you can afford.

 HTH.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the SRM-MK2 is better! i have a chance to buy this unit at 350USD! is it a good price for this unit! the serial no. is A9869, it has one normal bias and one pro bias output and on top of chassis professional has been written and its in very good condition even it has original packing cartoon too!_

 

I have both the 313 and the SRM-1/Mk2 and there's not a great deal of difference in their sound. The SRM-1/Mk2 cost about 300USD here in the UK, and that was not a bargain price, but for Dubai???? I have read on this website that the later SRM-1/Mk2s, with a serial no. starting with C, are better than the earlier ones, on the other hand, you say it is in good condition with the original box, so it may be worth it...


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the SRM-MK2 is better! i have a chance to buy this unit at 350USD! is it a good price for this unit! 
 regards,_

 

I've seen like new modern high-bias Stax 2020 (202s with the little amp and wall wart) for 300 USD lots of times on the used market - much newer design, and the 202s will upscale nicely with a better amp, when you're ready for that.

 My personal bias (pun intended) is to stay away from moldy oldies.


----------



## siddiquehanif

I've seen like new modern high-bias Stax 2020 (202s with the little amp and wall wart) for 300 USD lots of times on the used market - much newer design, and the 202s will upscale nicely with a better amp, when you're ready for that.

 My personal bias (pun intended) is to stay away from moldy oldies. 


 thanx for the suggestion!


----------



## siddiquehanif

its agreed that thers no much difference between 202/303/404! the the better option wud be to spend on a nice tube amp! any suggestions regarding this! probably SRM-006TII or sumthing elese! any older model like SRM-T1......................


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've seen like new modern high-bias Stax 2020 (202s with the little amp and wall wart) for 300 USD lots of times on the used market - much newer design, and the 202s will upscale nicely with a better amp, when you're ready for that.

 My personal bias (pun intended) is to stay away from moldy oldies. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 ...unless, of course, it's an SR-X Mk3 driven through an SRD-6 or 7 from a Naim NAC 32.5 and NAP 140, but, hey, let's not go there (as least with a newbie!).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone has bit 500 euros for a low bias Sigma.

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-SIGMA-pa...QQcmdZViewItem

 Yuh huh._

 

That's quite bit more then I paid for my NOS Sigma PRO's and a T1. This Stax craze is getting out of hand. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would Lambda's level up to HD650s? What are the cheaper options for some of the new non in ear systems?_

 

First off, I can't stand the 650 and vastly prefer the 600. It's a much better headphone but the 1979 SR-Lambda is even better. The only thing they lack is the annoying thump in the bass and the Sennheiser's diffused nature. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it was me, I'd get an original Lambda or Lambda Signature and a SRM-T1 instead._

 

I would also recommend you stay away from the Lambda Pro's, they aren't worth the price. The SR-Lambdas are very balanced and forgiving but lack the extra openness of the Signatures. The Signatures are also pretty brutal in revealing faults and the top end is slightly colored but it is a small price to pay for the extra resolution.


----------



## Crackle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The amp with the 303 is very likely the gubbins of the amp with the 202 with merely a possibly better internal power supply rather than a wall wart; it makes a difference._

 

I have a 2050 system on order (to replace my SR60's) and was wondering if a better power supply does make a difference - does anyone have any recommendations as to a replacement for the oe one?

 Cheers.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's quite bit more then I paid for my NOS Sigma PRO's and a T1. This Stax craze is getting out of hand. 



 First off, I can't stand the 650 and vastly prefer the 600. It's a much better headphone but the 1979 SR-Lambda is even better. The only thing they lack is the annoying thump in the bass and the Sennheiser's diffused nature. 



 I would also recommend you stay away from the Lambda Pro's, they aren't worth the price. The SR-Lambdas are very balanced and forgiving but lack the extra openness of the Signatures. The Signatures are also pretty brutal in revealing faults and the top end is slightly colored but it is a small price to pay for the extra resolution._

 

That's quite an endorsement for the Lambda and Lambda-Sigs! Next FOTM?:


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crackle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 2050 system on order (to replace my SR60's) and was wondering if a better power supply does make a difference - does anyone have any recommendations as to a replacement for the oe one?

 Cheers._

 

Yes, I'd like some ideas on this, too. Being a Naim fan, where a good 50% of my expenditure on amplification has been spent on power supplies (HiCaps, for the initiated), I understand the importance of a good PS. My SRM-212 is currently lying redundant, in favour of my SRM-1/Mk2, but I'd love to hear the newer amp giving of its best with a decent PS. It's a shame HiCaps give out 24v, otherwise I'd have tried one of them on the SRM-212!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I very much like mine, and have yet to hear them with tubes........_

 

I am almost certain that I will like/live it as well.
 But time will show...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Say if I got SR202's... could I grab 404s later on and use the same amp?_

 

Yes, you can. Since they are both Pro bias.
 But I recommend that you stick with the SR-202 until you can afford the SR-007 (which is a "real" update), and in the meantime spend your money on a nice tube amplifier.


----------



## Duggeh

The SR-202 scales well with a bigger amp, I like them very much out of the SRM-212 but even more from the SRM-717.

 I also made the path krmathis mentions, from the 202 to the O2, but I still like the 202 a lot.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's quite an endorsement for the Lambda and Lambda-Sigs! Next FOTM?:
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I hope not but these two need more respect around here. They sure aren't perfect but they're fun and alive and that's something that's rare. It sure as hell can't be said about the HD Sennheiser's.


----------



## krmathis

@Carl, or anyone else who have ordered 4070's from PriceJapan. Are their estimated BTO (Built To Order) time of 2-3 weeks pretty much spot on, or did it ship earlier or later than expected?
 I have searched Carl's STAX 4070 GET! (+BIG PICS) thread without finding any information. Ok, I might have missed it though...

 Thanks!


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crackle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 2050 system on order (to replace my SR60's) and was wondering if a better power supply does make a difference - does anyone have any recommendations as to a replacement for the oe one?
 Cheers._

 

Congrats - great choice! When I bought mine (in Japan, some years back) I just put the wall wart aside, as it's 100V for the JA line voltage. Just about any "real" 120 VAC to 12 VDC supply will be better than a wall wart. I'm using a regulated DC supply that's quite old, but works very well. You can find one for cheap, usually. A regulated supply will have better voltage stability, and probably better filtering, and thus much less A.C. ripple. Since current draw of the Stax amp is really low, and most DC power supplies are rated at least for 3 or 4 amps, you've got headroom galore, and essentially a stable power supply source. 
 Here an example of a suitable decent regulated 12V supply, assuming you are in the U.S.

http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-13-8-Volt-Po...QQcmdZViewItem

 This one's used, but you can probably still find new ones that are similar at electronics supply shops, ham radio outlets, CB shops, etc. Do a search for Astron, as well. Stay away from "switching" power supplies, as they will probably be noisier. When you wire your cable to power it, pay attention to polarity, as the Japanese models have negative tip voltage, unlike U.S. with positive tip.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry i accidently pressed enter before finishing my post!

 yes which system is better choice the new 3050 system (SR303+SRM-323) or the SRM1 MKII pro + Lambda pros!
 how is SRM1-MKII compare to the SRM-323 energizer alone pairing with other earspeaers!_

 

I have a SRM-007t & SRM-717. I still love my SRM-1 mk2 Pro. It is a great match with the low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro's. I do not like the Lambda's with the SRM-313/323 (grainy & week bass) or SRM-006t (upper midrange brightness & muddy bass). If you look around you should be able to get a SRM-1 mk2 Pro for a good price (got a SRM-1 & L-Pro for $300 on Audiogon last month - MINT). As much as I love the original Lambda (Quad ESL-57 like tonal balance) if I could only have one it would be the Lambda Pro (my favorite Lambda). If you cant find a Lambda or Lambda Pro go with a new 202.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Carl, or anyone else who have ordered 4070's from PriceJapan. Are their estimated BTO (Built To Order) time of 2-3 weeks pretty much spot on, or did it ship earlier or later than expected?
 I have searched Carl's STAX 4070 GET! (+BIG PICS) thread without finding any information. Ok, I might have missed it though...

 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Quite a bit earlier, but still not immediate. I think I had them in two weeks or so.


----------



## Rise To The Top

You are an evil man Carl...


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are an evil man Carl..._

 

Truer words have never been spoken. (...posted??)


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rise To The Top* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are an evil man Carl..._


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quite a bit earlier, but still not immediate. I think I had them in two weeks or so._

 

Perfect! Then there are a great chance I get them before my 5 weeks vacation...


----------



## tek

Had a chance to listen to Tachikoma's SR-5 Gold and SR-Gamma Pro the other day. Now I wish I had not! I personally am very fond of the SR-Gamma Pro which to me presented the detailed vocals in a dreamy way..but Tachikoma prefer to call it nasally 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Now my HD580 doesn't sound so nice anymore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Curse you Tachikoma!


----------



## Rise To The Top

I think I am going to go with a Lambda setup. After much talking with a old friend from here, I am convinced that they are for me. I guess I might buy them before I complete my HD650 setup.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Had a chance to listen to Tachikoma's SR-5 Gold and SR-Gamma Pro the other day. Now I wish I had not! I personally am very fond of the SR-Gamma Pro which to me presented the detailed vocals in a dreamy way..but Tachikoma prefer to call it nasally 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Now my HD580 doesn't sound so nice anymore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Curse you Tachikoma! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Curse you 'Tachikoma', and Head-Fi!
 Do I see another Team Stax member joining in soon...?


----------



## Crackle

Thanks for the info downrange, cheers, I look into it.


----------



## tek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Curse you 'Tachikoma', and Head-Fi!
 Do I see another Team Stax member joining in soon...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

haha not so soon. am still looking for a nice portable amp for my HD580 to shine. Then I might just save up for a stax set-up heh.


----------



## Carl

Portable HD580s? That's not usually the headphone that springs to mind when thinks about portable headphones...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Carl, finding the horror in children's television since 1873.


----------



## siddiquehanif

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a SRM-007t & SRM-717. I still love my SRM-1 mk2 Pro. It is a great match with the low bias Lambda and Lambda Pro's. I do not like the Lambda's with the SRM-313/323 (grainy & week bass) or SRM-006t (upper midrange brightness & muddy bass). If you look around you should be able to get a SRM-1 mk2 Pro for a good price (got a SRM-1 & L-Pro for $300 on Audiogon last month - MINT). As much as I love the original Lambda (Quad ESL-57 like tonal balance) if I could only have one it would be the Lambda Pro (my favorite Lambda). If you cant find a Lambda or Lambda Pro go with a new 202.

 AudioD_

 

thank you very much audiod for your insight! it seems you prefer 202 over 303/404! whats the reason for this! I have heard Lambda pros have lean bass or no bass what so ever is it true! How do you compare Lambda pros with 202 or Lambda Signature! If i want to upgrade to Omega2's in future is it ok to use it with SRM-1MK2!


----------



## randerson3024

Does anyone in the forum have experience listening to the 4070's with the SRM-727? I would like to hear your impressions. The amp seems weak, and actually sounds better with a pair of HE 60's I have configured for Stax. I am thinking of using sending my SRM-007t back to the boat or ordering a Headamp Special Edition Blue Hawaii, or other exotic amp cable of driving both Stax and the hopeful HE 90's I may some day find.

 Cheers,

 Bob


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crackle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 2050 system on order (to replace my SR60's) and was wondering if a better power supply does make a difference - does anyone have any recommendations as to a replacement for the oe one?

 Cheers._

 

Check around your house. I bet you find a whole bunch of unused 12V wallwarts around 500mA to 1A. I built a regulated supply on a proto board left over from when, years ago, I designed a generic filament regulator for tube amps that many of you probably have in your big power amps, but soon applied it to another project and went back to using a Panasonic wallwart that once powered a phone that clocked out. Anything with bigger current capability than the standard Stax wallwart will do; the reason is the usual, that the Stax cost accountants for their cheapest model ordered out of a catalogue the cheapest wallwart that was just capable of doing the job. You don't need a huge increase over the original equipment item's 4W, just the ability to deliver half an amp with rocksolid consistency. I have since I last wrote on these wallwarts also tried, by accident actually, a 300mA wallwart with the 252A and it was definitely not as good as a wallwart of higher capability; I went looking for what caused the subtle but nonetheless perceptible degradation of the sound in my 202 and eventually found it in the mess of wires and transformers behind my desk: when rearranging the wires I swapped wallwarts between something else and the 252A. Thing is, 300mA should, officially, be enough...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I'd like some ideas on this, too. Being a Naim fan, where a good 50% of my expenditure on amplification has been spent on power supplies (HiCaps, for the initiated), I understand the importance of a good PS. My SRM-212 is currently lying redundant, in favour of my SRM-1/Mk2, but I'd love to hear the newer amp giving of its best with a decent PS. It's a shame HiCaps give out 24v, otherwise I'd have tried one of them on the SRM-212!_

 

Maybe I'm just a cynical old marketer who happens to be able to solder, but I reckon it is a cheap cheat for someone to sell you an amp and then demand extra money for a competent power supply. Everyone who has been in hi-fi for a week knows (to adapt Arnold Palmer's golf adage) that you design amps for the show and power supplies for the money.

 You can build good regulated supplies yourself with only the most elementary soldering skills and equipment (a cheap digital multimeter helps but is not even essential). Just buy a Velleman regulated voltage supply kit, a transformer to drive it, and that's all you need because it comes with competent design and a nicely made PCB and all the required parts. From whoever you buy it, also order a Hammond aluminium case and its cover plate, much bigger than you need because the DIY bug will bite you and you will want to put something more in the case or reuse it for a bigger project. (Don't be tempted to buy steel cases; they will skin your knuckles unless you're a skilled metal worker.) Stiffen the cover plate with wood. Bolt everything to the cover plate rather than inside the case. The case then stays tidy and provides a cover, and working on the flat of the cover plate makes everything accessible, with less likelihood of giving yourself a shock by fiddling around inside a box. To attach the box invisibly to the cover plate, drill holes in the turned edges to match the holes factory-punched in the cover plate, bolt in long bolts from the inside, then bolt on the cover plate and its stiffening wood over the first set of nuts which merely hold the bolts in the cover plate; that also provides a thin entry for cooling air. You can see such a construction on my netsite in the T68bis Minus Zero amp: 
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...0T68MZ417A.jpg

 If you have kids, they probably have a Lego box to power and act as a speed control for their kits; it's a variable 0-12V and fixed 12V and 13V regulated supply you might want to borrow...

 You might also try an unregulated but very stiff (a lotta joules of storage in the capacitors) supply. I never, for instance, built a regulated supply for my own-use valve amps after my first year in tube amps fifteen years ago. A regulated supply can make your music sound deadly, homogenized like skimmed milk from a carton. By contrast, unregulated supplies make the music sound livelier. (In tube amps there are considerations for not making the supply any stiffer than necessary, but to compensate you merely increase the voltage and standing current and run the tubes into very high loads to silence the amp -- it's just a matter of whether you're an engineer who wants to extract maximum power for the money or an audiophile who will sacrifice two thirds of the power you paid for to obtain a very quiet amp.)

 Finally, while I understand the snobbery of owning Stax earphones, it is a mistake to sneer at wallwarts just because they are mainly cheap and common. That doesn't mean they are all incompetent. Their cheapness is brought about by their commonness bringing down unit costs, and they're common because they do the job right. Many are beautifully designed and built, delivering the promised voltage and current with rocksolid consistency. And you can always go for overkill by using one capable of twice the current you require. It is exceedingly doubtful whether the innards of some outrageously expensive "audiophile" power supplies are any better designed or specified than, and it is certain they are not as well built as, the Panasonic wallwart I use with my SRM-252A. Many of these "audiophile" supplies are just wallwarts with two leads in and out of a bigger than necessary box to justify the price.

 So, in summary, check out higher-current wallwarts, build your own regulated supply on a kit, build an unregulated but stiffly capped supply, try a Lego voltage box.

 HTH.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ...So, in summary, check out higher-current wallwarts, build your own regulated supply on a kit, build an unregulated but stiffly capped supply, try a Lego voltage box._

 

Fascinating post, Andre, thanks. I think the 3rd option you mention interests me most. The Naim HiCaps (as their name suggests) consist of a whopping great toroidal transformer and a couple of enormous capacitors, which would suggest to me that they comply with your suggestion (although since I'm pretty ignorant about electronics, there may be more to it than this; they may even be regulated for all I know).

 I'd certainly love to try something along these lines, but apart from building a 'Wireless World' Dolby Processor from a DIY kit many years ago, and soldering my SR-X Mk3s (to replace the crimps), I'm not certain my soldering skills are up to it...

 For when I do pluck up the courage: do you have any idea where I could find a suitable circuit diagram and parts list for a PS for the SRM-212, along these lines?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Portable HD580s? That's not usually the headphone that springs to mind when thinks about portable headphones..._

 

*cough* I use the HD650 as a "portable".

 Someone pointed out that the vocals sounded as if the vocalists were pinching their noses while singing with the GPs, and I had to agree. Not sure if thats what "nasal" means though.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *siddiquehanif* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thank you very much audiod for your insight! it seems you prefer 202 over 303/404! whats the reason for this! I have heard Lambda pros have lean bass or no bass what so ever is it true! How do you compare Lambda pros with 202 or Lambda Signature! If i want to upgrade to Omega2's in future is it ok to use it with SRM-1MK2!_

 

The 202 is the best value of the current Lambda's ($275 from Audiocubes). The current Lambda's are known for their detail and openness, but have a bite in the upper midrange. In a direct comparison with the 404 the 202 is not quite as detailed on the very top but the upper midrange is a little more tamed.

 My Lambda Pro's have great bass (though not in the class of a Omega II). The 202 vs. the Lambda Pro is difficult. The 202 is cleaner and has a bigger headstage. The Pro is much easier to listen to for long periods. If you like to listen to music loud the Pro’s are more recessed and a little more forgiving of program material. The 202 still have a slight bite in the upper midrange. The 202 is great for low level before bed listening.

 The SRM-1 mk2 Pro will drive the O2 just fine. You will want to upgrade the amp eventually, but most of the qualities of the O2 will come through. I like the O2 with the SRM-1 better than the 006t. I like the 717 better than the 007t with the O2 and I own both. With the Lambda Pro I like the 007t best. I do not like the 006t period. And I'm an old tube mavin!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone in the forum have experience listening to the 4070's with the SRM-727? I would like to hear your impressions. The amp seems weak, and actually sounds better with a pair of HE 60's I have configured for Stax. I am thinking of using sending my SRM-007t back to the boat or ordering a Headamp Special Edition Blue Hawaii, or other exotic amp cable of driving both Stax and the hopeful HE 90's I may some day find.

 Cheers,

 Bob_

 

The Sennheiser's are one of the easiest stats to drive so they will sound great out of almost anything. There are good solid reasons for this and it's why some people are having problems with their HE90's on other amps then the HEV90. I've never heard the 4070 (hopefully soon) but I they are probably harder to drive then the Lambdas that are in turn a tougher load then the HE60/90. You need a real amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 202 is the best value of the current Lambda's ($275 from Audiocubes). The current Lambda's are known for their detail and openness, but have a bite in the upper midrange. In a direct comparison with the 404 the 202 is not quite as detailed on the very top but the upper midrange is a little more tamed.

 My Lambda Pro's have great bass (though not in the class of a Omega II). The 202 vs. the Lambda Pro is difficult. The 202 is cleaner and has a bigger headstage. The Pro is much easier to listen to for long periods. If you like to listen to music loud the Pro’s are more recessed and a little more forgiving of program material. The 202 still have a slight bite in the upper midrange. The 202 is great for low level before bed listening.

 The SRM-1 mk2 Pro will drive the O2 just fine. You will want to upgrade the amp eventually, but most of the qualities of the O2 will come through. I like the O2 with the SRM-1 better than the 006t. I like the 717 better than the 007t with the O2 and I own both. With the Lambda Pro I like the 007t best. I do not like the 006t period. And I'm an old tube mavin!_

 

My issue with the Pro's is the recessed midrange and disjointed bass. They lack the coherence that both the normal model and the Signature have. The Lambdas have all their own character and that's why I'm doing a pretty big comparative review of the TOTL models. It will mostly be a look at their history and development with comparisons thrown in. Now only if the SR-404 would get here so I can get on with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to buy a second Lambda Pro and remove the fiber backing. I hope it will have the same results as with the SR-Lambda, taking a good headphone and fully unleashing it's potential. 

 I don't get it why the 006t is such a bad amp when the T1 is so good. Penny pinching gone mad isn't a good thing. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*cough* I use the HD650 as a "portable".

 Someone pointed out that the vocals sounded as if the vocalists were pinching their noses while singing with the GPs, and I had to agree. Not sure if thats what "nasal" means though._

 

It's the same with the normal bias Gamma. There is a definitive coloration in the midrange and I think it's the cheap housing messing with the sound.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...that's why I'm doing a pretty big comparative review of the TOTL models. It will mostly be a look at their history and development with comparisons thrown in.

 I'm going to buy a second Lambda Pro and remove the fiber backing. I hope it will have the same results as with the SR-Lambda, taking a good headphone and fully unleashing it's potential._

 

I very much look forward to the comparo. I had Lambda Sigs years ago but I would like to find a set to compare to my LB Lambda's, Pro's & 202's.

 Let me know how the removing the backing on the Lambda Pro's work out. If it is positive I will tear out the damping in one of my Pro's.

 AudioD


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fascinating post, Andre, thanks. I think the 3rd option you mention interests me most. The Naim HiCaps (as their name suggests) consist of a whopping great toroidal transformer and a couple of enormous capacitors, which would suggest to me that they comply with your suggestion (although since I'm pretty ignorant about electronics, there may be more to it than this; they may even be regulated for all I know)._

 

It's possible about the Naim HiCaps. A transformer-rectifier-cap is a power supply already. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd certainly love to try something along these lines, but apart from building a 'Wireless World' Dolby Processor from a DIY kit many years ago, and soldering my SR-X Mk3s (to replace the crimps), I'm not certain my soldering skills are up to it..._

 

Sounds to me like you have more soldering skills than most DIYers. I often suspect that some of them "do tubes" because they lack the confidence to solder all those creepy-crawlies!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For when I do pluck up the courage: do you have any idea where I could find a suitable circuit diagram and parts list for a PS for the SRM-212, along these lines?_

 

Hang on. If you only want an experiment, the closest to pure DC you will come is through a possibility I haven't mentioned yet, battery power. The only reason to build a power supply is to save money in the long term because batteries are expensive as your only source of power. 

 Get two 6V lantern batteries, cheap at the high street trinket discounters (called "pound shops" in Ireland where I live) or at any hardware store. Link them in series and to a cable to your 212 or 252. Enjoy many hours of pure power without huge expense of money and time.

 If you then still want to go ahead with a power supply, there are plenty of designs on the net, or I can adapt one of my 6.3V filament designs for you. All the end result will consist of is a transformer, a bridge rectifier with bypasses for silence, two big caps and a resistor in a pi filter, and an oversize bleed for safety; I also like ballasts which are just big power resistors bleeding off current into nothing but heat -- and stability; that sort of thing makes the "real" engineers crawl up the wall in rage at the "waste". The only trick is in scaling the parts right so you don't unwittingly build a filter for the wanted part of your sound, or overvolt the amp intolerably.

 But try the batteries first; you might fall in love with them too deeply to want to be bothered with soldering.

 Andre Jute
 Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey


----------



## John Buchanan

The 717 is better with the high demand phones (the O2 and the Sigma) than the SRM 1 Mk2. It's a great amp IMHO, but the latter is no slouch with the lower demand phones such as the Lambda Nova Signature.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sennheiser's are one of the easiest stats to drive so they will sound great out of almost anything. There are good solid reasons for this and it's why some people are having problems with their HE90's on other amps then the HEV90. I've never heard the 4070 (hopefully soon) but I they are probably harder to drive then the Lambdas that are in turn a tougher load then the HE60/90. You need a real amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I don't find the HE60s that amp friendly. They need something that can slew really fast.

 The 4070s are actually less efficient than the Sigma Pros, although they don't become a big blob of flabby midbass when underamped the way the SPs do. They still need a good amp, anyway.


----------



## Vaughn

I'm thinking of going electrostatic and could use a little advice.

 I have been looking at the Stax 2050 system on AudioCubes2 and at the
 Koss ESP-950. I would like an amp that takes a line level input instead of
 an input coming from my amplifier. It seems the 2050 does this, unless I 
 am mistaken. Does anyone know about the Koss?

 My budget is around $500.00, obviously less if possible.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of going electrostatic and could use a little advice.

 I have been looking at the Stax 2050 system on AudioCubes2 and at the
 Koss ESP-950. I would like an amp that takes a line level input instead of
 an input coming from my amplifier. It seems the 2050 does this, unless I 
 am mistaken. Does anyone know about the Koss?

 My budget is around $500.00, obviously less if possible._

 

Well the Koss amp is pretty useless with the stock wallwart power supply, but it does have line level inputs. Replacing the power supply with a beefy wallwart or bench supply, or even a block of rechargable batteries if you're feeling frisky, will get you closer to where you want to be, but it's circuit still isn't as good as the SRM-252II is. 

 The ESP950 is a better headphone than the SR-202 without any trouble.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sennheiser's are one of the easiest stats to drive so they will sound great out of almost anything. There are good solid reasons for this and it's why some people are having problems with their HE90's on other amps then the HEV90. I've never heard the 4070 (hopefully soon) but I they are probably harder to drive then the Lambdas that are in turn a tougher load then the HE60/90. You need a real amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 My issue with the Pro's is the recessed midrange and disjointed bass. They lack the coherence that both the normal model and the Signature have. The Lambdas have all their own character and that's why I'm doing a pretty big comparative review of the TOTL models. It will mostly be a look at their history and development with comparisons thrown in. Now only if the SR-404 would get here so I can get on with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to buy a second Lambda Pro and remove the fiber backing. I hope it will have the same results as with the SR-Lambda, taking a good headphone and fully unleashing it's potential. 

 I don't get it why the 006t is such a bad amp when the T1 is so good. Penny pinching gone mad isn't a good thing. 



 It's the same with the normal bias Gamma. There is a definitive coloration in the midrange and I think it's the cheap housing messing with the sound._

 


 As I suspected - it's time for the amp search to begin.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ...Hang on. If you only want an experiment, the closest to pure DC you will come is through a possibility I haven't mentioned yet, battery power. The only reason to build a power supply is to save money in the long term because batteries are expensive as your only source of power. 

 Get two 6V lantern batteries, cheap at the high street trinket discounters (called "pound shops" in Ireland where I live) or at any hardware store. Link them in series and to a cable to your 212 or 252. Enjoy many hours of pure power without huge expense of money and time._

 

Yes, I'm aware of the battery as PS potential (pun slightly intended), but my fear is I'll like it too much, then be too mean to shell out on batteries. I posted much earlier on in this thread to see if anyone knew how to hold 10 AAs (= LR-6s) together so I could use my re-chargeable 1.2v NiMH batteries (which would also make the system [trans]portable!), but got no replies.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you then still want to go ahead with a power supply, there are plenty of designs on the net, or I can adapt one of my 6.3V filament designs for you. All the end result will consist of is a transformer, a bridge rectifier with bypasses for silence, two big caps and a resistor in a pi filter, and an oversize bleed for safety; I also like ballasts which are just big power resistors bleeding off current into nothing but heat -- and stability; that sort of thing makes the "real" engineers crawl up the wall in rage at the "waste". The only trick is in scaling the parts right so you don't unwittingly build a filter for the wanted part of your sound, or overvolt the amp intolerably._

 

See? This is where I'm completely lost! I have no understanding of electronics (soldering a kit or a dodgy join is about it!) so what you've written just there leaves me feeling helpless...

 ...on the other hand everybody has to start somewhere, so maybe a home-made PS is the way to go (when I've got hold of a parts list and a comprehensible [to me] circuit diagram!).


----------



## jigster

Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE? Been emailing him a few times but only got a reply twice. Anyone know if he's taking orders now?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE? Been emailing him a few times but only got a reply twice. Anyone know if he's taking orders now?_

 

Justin isn't exactly Mr Promt Reply, so that's to be expected.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I'm aware of the battery as PS potential (pun slightly intended), but my fear is I'll like it too much, then be too mean to shell out on batteries. I posted much earlier on in this thread to see if anyone knew how to hold 10 AAs (= LR-6s) together so I could use my re-chargeable 1.2v NiMH batteries (which would also make the system [trans]portable!), but got no replies.



 See? This is where I'm completely lost! I have no understanding of electronics (soldering a kit or a dodgy join is about it!) so what you've written just there leaves me feeling helpless...
_

 

First, if you're in the U.S., Radio Shack has a variety of battery cases that are very inexpensive. I rigged up a four-cell (AA) case for 1.2V cells for my Stax mini (001). They may not have a ten cell, but I'm pretty sure they have a five cell - just use two in series (PM me if you need more technical info on wiring this - it's simple).

 I can think of better ways to immerse yourself into the wonderful world of DIY electronics than trying to build your first power supply, especially when there are so many inexpensive solutions around (see my earlier post). As Andre says, some wall warts are OK, too, but the trick is knowing which ones are good, and which ones are mediocre. I still say an inexpensive regulated supply is the best bet; most wall warts have rudimentary regulation and poor filtering. Many are "switching" power supplies, which are convenient for various line voltages, but do not provide the clean supply for the best sound.

 Consider this: many people spend hundreds extra to have Justin at Headamp install Black Gate capacitors in the power supply for the KGSS amplifier (1500 dollar amp with no mods). They do this in pursuit of deeper filtration of the 12 V source voltage; the capacitors are not in the signal path. I wouldn't spend that, because my understanding is that that's a good example of "over-engineering" a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. (PS filtering is adequate - Justin uses tons of capacitance, and Black Gates are better for use IN other amps that need them.) But, it's a continuum from the sublime to the ridiculous. Spend a bit more than the wall wart at mall wart (Walmart), but don't go crazy. You should be able to find a good regulated PS for less than 50 USD, much less if you buy used. Just my two cents! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, and by the way, there was a statement in one of the posts (I'm not too sure where) to the effect that a good, stiff, regulated supply might make the sound somehow "boring" or less dynamic (believe this was in reference to a tube design). With solid state amps, that's definitely not the case. If the design relies on a soft or unregulated power supply for its characteristic sound, you don't want to listen to it. As Andre suggested, two lantern batteries are a good DC source. Very pure, and also very, very stiff. The small current draw from a 2050 would barely move a voltmeter between those batteries and the amp. So, you can't believe everything you read, even in this thread. Just keep in mind, what you're trying to do with a PS is approach that ideal of a pure DC source, like the lantern batteries, at a cost and size point that you can live with. A regulated supply intersects those points very well.
 Best of luck, and let us know how it goes.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!

 If I could get something like a Naim HiCap (but way, way cheaper!) that gives out 12v, I'd love to hear what the SRM-212 could do (I still believe that the relative naffness of the Stax amps is due to Stax's lack of attention to the power supply, like most Japanese equipment).

 Perhaps, as an experiment to see if further investment is appropriate, I should give the lantern batteries a go...

 (By the way, I'm in the UK, and our equivalent to Radio Shack (Tandy's?) is Maplin.)


----------



## zirgated

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!_

 

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Except very little knowledge, which your wallet will thank you for.

 Comparing regulated vs unregulated is rather silly - it's the circuit as a whole that's important. A very good supply, in either category, will be excellent - there should be very little difference between them, in fact. It's a matter of cost effectiveness.

 I would expect a regulating supply to be more resilient to bad power input. Not a problem if you have some form of power conditioning.

  Quote:


 Perhaps, as an experiment to see if further investment is appropriate, I should give the lantern batteries a go... 
 

Sounds good. Anyone tried a on-the-fly recharging battery power supply (same principle as an online UPS)?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!_

 

Depends how good the regulation is relative to the cost of the extra parts and the sonic effects of the extra parts in the current loops. Either can be better, it's a matter of execution.

  Quote:


 (I still believe that the relative naffness of the Stax amps is due to Stax's lack of attention to the power supply, like most Japanese equipment). 
 

Yeah, pretty much. The 313 is a joke in that respect.

 The sad thing is, old Stax used to be one of the best in the world for power supplies. They were the first company to use super-shunt regulation, and had a huge percentage of their gear run off batteries. Those days have since gone, unfortunately.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE?_

 

Yes, but that was back in early March.
 I emailed him regarding the Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and received prompt replies within 24 hours every time.

 Here are a short summary of what he told me:
 I will be building 10 of them
 Parts of the amp might actually be blue
 It will be a two box unit built much better than the original Blue Hawaii, with many circuit and component improvements. It will also have both Stax and HE90 jacks, like the Aristaeus.
 There won't be any wood, and the front panel won't extend past the edge of the box (the amplifier chassis will have heat-sinks as the left and right sides of the box, like many power amplifiers).
 The metal finishing will be the same hand polished as the Aristaeus, and the same laser engraving.
 It won't be as deep as the regular Blue Hawaii, because moving the power supply to a separate chassis will allow the amplifier chassis to be smaller. However, it will only be in the depth that it will be smaller than the original (about 12" compared to 16"). It's not possible to build the amp smaller than this. The power supply chassis will be about 1/2 the size of the amp chassis.
 Some of the more major changes I'm making to the Blue Hawaii will involve giving it a more tube-like sound.
 The estimated price is $3295. I hope to have it released in 2-3 months.
 I will do the KGST, but not any time soon. I just like doing the limited editions on the electrostatic amps.
 Because of the influx of HE90 owners on Head-Fi, I will definitely be paying more attention to performance with HE90 and not just Stax.

 Can't wait to see pictures of the final product. Cause first then I can decide if I want one or not...


----------



## derekbmn

The price has since been raised to $4500.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I posted much earlier on in this thread to see if anyone knew how to hold 10 AAs (= LR-6s) together so I could use my re-chargeable 1.2v NiMH batteries (which would also make the system [trans]portable!), but got no replies._

 

I couldn't find any battery holders to hold 10x or 12x AA rechargable for powering (12V) or overvolting (14.4V) an MR16 bike light I built. First I used the 14.4 battery off my rechargable drill but that was heavy. Then I glued three 4xAA holders from RS together. They sell the 4xAA holders in a long version and a short wide version. Connection is by press studs so it is easy to wire up the glued-up blocks in series. If you want to use less than a multiple of four, just jam long bolts in the place of the batteries not required. The connections inside the boxes are cheap and badly plated, and the plastic cheaper and nastier still, so soldering a shorting wire in there just leads to an ugly mess.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price has since been raised to $4500._

 

Wow! Even more than for the Aristaeus.
 When we know how that one turned out we might be in for a very well built and really stunning looking amplifier. Can't wait.


----------



## derekbmn

As of late,I have a serious hankering for the Japanese Masters amp. I just wish the translations would come out a bit better.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I think i'll take one for the team next spring.(yes it will be awhile)


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I couldn't find any battery holders to hold 10x or 12x AA rechargable for powering (12V) or overvolting (14.4V) an MR16 bike light I built. First I used the 14.4 battery off my rechargable drill but that was heavy. Then I glued three 4xAA holders from RS together. They sell the 4xAA holders in a long version and a short wide version. Connection is by press studs so it is easy to wire up the glued-up blocks in series. If you want to use less than a multiple of four, just jam long bolts in the place of the batteries not required. The connections inside the boxes are cheap and badly plated, and the plastic cheaper and nastier still, so soldering a shorting wire in there just leads to an ugly mess._

 

Can somebody please confirm my knowledge of Ohm's Law and my Maths? If I can link 10x fully-charged NiMH AA 1.2v batteries together (along the lines suggested above), and they are all 1600mAh rated, in theory I should get about 3+ hours use of my SRM-212 from one charge. (This possibly dodgy calculation is based on the assumption that the SRM-212 is rated at 12v/4w, which is what I've read somewhere... er, on the back of the SRM-212!).


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!_

 

Oh dear. I looks like I started something here. 

 There are no absolutes in hi-fi electronics, Johnny. It is all a matter of taste, then of execution. When I say I like unregulated supplies better, that is my taste, and the presumption is that the rest of the power supply and amp will be built in the best possible manner without reference to cost. You see, regulation is just a cheap fix of problems cost-engineeering cuts have brought about in the amp and its power supply. If you build the amp silent in the first instance (which means giving up half or more of the possible power it can produce), and don't specify the transformer and caps down to the minimum required so as to save a few bucks in the power supply, and use expensive chokes (I use several, and of a $$$pecial double design -- see http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...dre%20Jute.htm ), and don't skimp on the pricey components for noise reducing circuitry (balanced circuits, current sources -- you won't believe how quickly this drives the cost of an amp into multiples of what is possible to charge on the High Street) -- if you do everything else right, you then don't need to put up with regulation moulinexing your sound. Of course, if you don't agree with me that regulation leeches the colour from your sound, then you should have regulation, and regulation then permits you to cut corners elsewhere. It is, as I say, swings and roundabouts, a continuum (thanks for the very word I was looking for, Downrange) of possibilities, and where you pitch your tent along this long, long line is a matter of experience and taste.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Consider this: many people spend hundreds extra to have Justin at Headamp install Black Gate capacitors in the power supply for the KGSS amplifier (1500 dollar amp with no mods). They do this in pursuit of deeper filtration of the 12 V source voltage; the capacitors are not in the signal path._

 

Everything is in the signal path. Your return line runs all the way from the plug on the wall through the power supply and the signal amp back to the plug on the wall.

 But I hate monster caps too, and escpecially on tube amps, where they can have the same effect as regulators. Oversize caps too are a bodge for not doing the job right elsewhere.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, and by the way, there was a statement in one of the posts (I'm not too sure where) to the effect that a good, stiff, regulated supply might make the sound somehow "boring" or less dynamic (believe this was in reference to a tube design). With solid state amps, that's definitely not the case._

 

If you build the rest of your amp cheaply and need to gimmick it right with a regulated power supply, it will sound like rubbish without the regulation. If you build the amp right, the presence of regulation is irrelevant in any positive sense, and to my ears has a flattening, negative influence on the sound. A good amp and its good power supply is in a sense self-regulating. See about some of the possible mechanisms above. This soundleeching effect I talk of is most easily heard in tube amps, and especially when you can switch in and out regulated filament supplies (Herb Reichert memorably said that he "despises" the sound of regulated filaments), but it is there in SS amps too; SS amps have been built down because of near-universal presumption of regulation for so long that cheap and nasty has become the norm. The chap who wrote today in nostalgia for battery-powered Stax from a generation ago, and topclass Stax power supplies, has a strong point.

 Here is a simple solidstate amp that sounds superb without regulation especially when it is used in Class A:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/K...dre%20Jute.htm
 The key is a hefty transformer and minimal simplicity.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the design relies on a soft or unregulated power supply for its characteristic sound, you don't want to listen to it._

 

Added euphonics, eh? Not on my amps; they're dead silent. But even third and higher harmonics well below the level of conscious perception can bring with them a level of vague unease well above the subliminal. So I shape the residual noise to eliminate all the third and higher harmonics to a vanishing fraction of the tiny residual of THD.

 I do this, among other ways, by using either very little or no global negative feedback because NFB manufactures higher order harmonic residuals every time it cycles to reduce the lower harmonics. An NFB amp almost requires the homogenizing effect of regulation so as not to sound edgy with all those high-order residuals. In short, one of the reasons my amps don't need regulation is because virtually the only residual harmonic is second, well below perception, and that is subliminally harmless because second harmonic, unlike third and higher, is actually pleasing.

 So, I see regulation as a bodge required by "engineers" without the brains to enquire whether there isn't a better way of doing the job, and without the taste to grasp that their result, while perhaps passable when measured against all the other inadequate results of their peers, isn't fundamentally perverse.

 It is worth making a final point. An electrostat like the Stax earspeaker is such a clear, undistorted reproducer, it deserves the simplest, cleanest chain behind it, and regulation is a lot of extra gubbins for the signal-carrier to travel through.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As of late,I have a serious hankering for the Japanese Masters amp. I just wish the translations would come out a bit better.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think i'll take one for the team next spring.(yes it will be awhile)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

You talk about the Masters BA-215TM, right?
 That would be awesome, as we know very little about it, and especially how it sound compared to similar priced amplifiers.

 This one:


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh dear. I looks like I started something here. 

 ...So, I see regulation as a bodge required by "engineers" without the brains to enquire whether there isn't a better way of doing the job, and without the taste to grasp that their result, while perhaps passable when measured against all the other inadequate results of their peers, isn't fundamentally perverse.

 It is worth making a final point. An electrostat like the Stax earspeaker is such a clear, undistorted reproducer, it deserves the simplest, cleanest chain behind it, and regulation is a lot of extra gubbins for the signal-carrier to travel through._

 

The man makes sense...


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can somebody please confirm my knowledge of Ohm's Law and my Maths? If I can link 10x fully-charged NiMH AA 1.2v batteries together (along the lines suggested above), and they are all 1600mAh rated, in theory I should get about 3+ hours use of my SRM-212 from one charge. (This possibly dodgy calculation is based on the assumption that the SRM-212 is rated at 12v/4w, which is what I've read somewhere... er, on the back of the SRM-212!)._

 

If the SRM-212 is 12v/4w, that's around 333 milliamperes rating. You should be able to get somewhere around five hours with a bank of 1600 mAh batteries.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You talk about the Masters BA-215TM, right?
 That would be awesome, as we know very little about it, and especially how it sound compared to similar priced amplifiers.

 This one:



_

 

Yes ! But like I said it will be awhile.(next spring) House repairs really stink.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't find the HE60s that amp friendly. They need something that can slew really fast._

 

I was talking about their voltage needs but they can be seriously picky beasts. The close D/S spacing calls for a quicker power delivery but that isn't doing them any favors with amp matching. It's good that the Stax amps are built to handle the old oddball designs so they are a synergistic match to the HE60/90. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070s are actually less efficient than the Sigma Pros, although they don't become a big blob of flabby midbass when underamped the way the SPs do. They still need a good amp, anyway._

 

It's clear then that the 717/727 just aren't powerful enough to do them justice. The 717 nearly crawled into a hole and died when driving the Sigmas. It's no wonder that the Sigma Pro's didn't sell well when their recommended partner was the T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As I suspected - it's time for the amp search to begin.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It isn't easy (or cheap) to be an electrostatic fanatic but it's worth it!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, pretty much. The 313 is a joke in that respect.

 The sad thing is, old Stax used to be one of the best in the world for power supplies. They were the first company to use super-shunt regulation, and had a huge percentage of their gear run off batteries. Those days have since gone, unfortunately._

 

Some of the Stax speaker amps were marveled by other amp designers at the time. People like Mark Levinson studied them and tried to make his own version. It's too bad that they didn't know how to run a company successfully... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! Even more than for the Aristaeus.
 When we know how that one turned out we might be in for a very well built and really stunning looking amplifier. Can't wait._

 

I'm keeping an eye on it with the dollar this weak. It's actually cheaper then my old Blue Hawaii. I'm not happy about the "no upgrade" policy but then again, I'm hard to please. Still it would be nice if Justin would chime in and tell us what caps are used, wiring and all that.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm keeping an eye on it with the dollar this weak. It's actually cheaper then my old Blue Hawaii. I'm not happy about the "no upgrade" policy but then again, I'm hard to please. Still it would be nice if Justin would chime in and tell us what caps are used, wiring and all that._

 

True!
 The US dollar have not been this weak against our currency since the early -90's. So this is really the time to buy goods from the US, or in USD in general.

 I would like some more up-to-date information from Justin as well. Some details about the components he use, and perhaps even some pictures.
 I am so tempted by the Blue Hawaii Special Edition.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the SRM-212 is 12v/4w, that's around 333 milliamperes rating. You should be able to get somewhere around five hours with a bank of 1600 mAh batteries._

 

This is SO weird: I had everything right in my knowledge, and the Maths was a doddle, so how did I divide 1600 with 333 and get 3?

 Thanks, Downrange!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's clear then that the 717/727 just aren't powerful enough to do them justice. The 717 nearly crawled into a hole and died when driving the Sigmas. It's no wonder that the Sigma Pro's didn't sell well when their recommended partner was the T1._

 

My 717 drives the 404 to very high levels (and the O2’s). I thought that the 4070 had the same driver as the 404. Does the enclosure on the 4070 make it that much less efficient than the 404?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was talking about their voltage needs but they can be seriously picky beasts. The close D/S spacing calls for a quicker power delivery but that isn't doing them any favors with amp matching. It's good that the Stax amps are built to handle the old oddball designs so they are a synergistic match to the HE60/90._

 

Pretty much.

 To oversimplify; Stax need voltage, Sennheiser needs current.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is SO weird: I had everything right in my knowledge, and the Maths was a doddle, so how did I divide 1600 with 333 and get 3?

 Thanks, Downrange!_

 

His maths is wrong.

 Power = Voltage x Current. So,
 4W = 12V x 0.3A


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 717 drives the 404 to very high levels (and the O2’s). I thought that the 4070 had the same driver as the 404. Does the enclosure on the 4070 make it that much less efficient than the 404?_

 

Yeah, pretty much. I guess there's a lot of backwave cancelation going down.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_His maths is wrong.

 Power = Voltage x Current. So,
 4W = 12V x 0.3A
_

 

I'm surprised at you, Carl.

 P=IE (Power in watts equals current in amperes times voltage)

 4= 12X

 x=4/12

 = 1/3

 = .3333333


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes ! But like I said it will be awhile.(next spring) House repairs really stink._

 

I realize that.
 But one possible taker, even if its next spring, is better than no taker.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True!
 The US dollar have not been this weak against our currency since the early -90's. So this is really the time to buy goods from the US, or in USD in general.

 I would like some more up-to-date information from Justin as well. Some details about the components he use, and perhaps even some pictures.
 I am so tempted by the Blue Hawaii Special Edition._

 

Upgrading my BH will be very expensive and it's a question whether I shouldn't just buy a new one and sell the old space heater. My main issue it that I really need at least one normal jack and I would never buy another amp with stepped attenuators well unless it's the Kondo KSL unit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 717 drives the 404 to very high levels (and the O2’s). I thought that the 4070 had the same driver as the 404. Does the enclosure on the 4070 make it that much less efficient than the 404?_

 

It's the same as with the Lambda Signature and the Sigma Pro and of course the SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma. Same drivers and cables but vastly different in almost every other sense. 

 It isn't about the levels they can reach in loudness but the control the amp possesses over the diaphragm. A 313 can drive a Sigma or the SR-007 but it sounds like crap, even very loud crap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pretty much.

 To oversimplify; Stax need voltage, Sennheiser needs current._

 

Yeah I guess it could be put like that but with one exception, the SR-007 needs both... badly.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the same as with the Lambda Signature and the Sigma Pro and of course the SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma. Same drivers and cables but vastly different in almost every other sense._

 

Are you sure they all are using the same cables?
 Cause from pictures it seems like the 4070 use the same cable as the brown SR-007. Which are wider and more rugged than the SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma cable. Of course I might be wrong...

 Its most probably using identical drivers as the SR-404 though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure they all are using the same cables?
 Cause from pictures it seems like the 4070 use the same cable as the brown SR-007. Which are wider and more rugged than the SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma cable. Of course I might be wrong...

 Its most probably using identical drivers as the SR-404 though._

 

Each generation shares the drivers and cables. The 4070 uses the wide PC-OCC cable like all TOTL Stax models have since 1993, all my examples predate that.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Each generation shares the drivers and cables. The 4070 uses the wide PC-OCC cable like all TOTL Stax models have since 1993, all my examples predate that._

 

Ok, now I probably understand what you mean.
 That the 4070 cable use the same wide PC-OCC as all other current Stax models. Even if it don't share cable with the SR-404, just the drivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, now I probably understand what you mean.
 That the 4070 cable use the same wide PC-OCC as all other current Stax models. Even if it don't share cable with the SR-404, just the drivers._

 

Ok, I'll explain it properly now. Even though the same generation of phones share the same cables and drive units they can and will sound very different. The SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma (after 1979) use the same OFC ribbon cable and 2um drivers but sound completely different. The SR-Lambda Signature and SR-Sigma Pro use the same PC-OCC cable and 1um drivers and again sound nothing like each other. 

 The 4070 uses the same wide PC-OCC cable as the SR-Omega, SR-Lambda Nova Signature, SR-007 and SR-404 use and share the same drivers as the SR-303 and SR-404. 

 Even though the phones share drivers and cables (i.e. the signal path) the housing will completely alter the sound. Same can be said about the SR-5N, SR-Gamma and the SR-X Mk3.


----------



## ironbut

I've done a search of all the usual forums looking for any evidence of upgrading the 007tII but came up with nothing. Not even a schematic. Would a change in tube types be required to up the peak-peak voltage swing? I ask because when I listened to the new Stax at the International, I really liked the overall sound ( compared to the GES,727). I would like to get the most from a pair of o2's though. Any thoughts on other mods?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm surprised at you, Carl.

 P=IE (Power in watts equals current in amperes times voltage)

 4= 12X

 x=4/12

 = 1/3

 = .3333333




_

 

My science was right. It's just my maths that could do with a little work...


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its most probably using identical drivers as the SR-404 though._

 

Yes, although there are grooves CNCed into the baffle. You'll understand when you open yours up.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I'll explain it properly now.
 ..._

 

Now I fully understand what you mean with "same drivers and cables but vastly different in almost every other sense".

 Different housing, damping, material, etc. sure will make headphones sound totally different, even if they use identical drivers and cables. That is part of what makes this hobby so fun. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Edit: 5000 posts. YoHooo!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've done a search of all the usual forums looking for any evidence of upgrading the 007tII but came up with nothing. Not even a schematic. Would a change in tube types be required to up the peak-peak voltage swing? I ask because when I listened to the new Stax at the International, I really liked the overall sound ( compared to the GES,727). I would like to get the most from a pair of o2's though. Any thoughts on other mods?_

 

You can swap in 6S4's instead of the 6CG7's but you will need an adapter. You could always upgrade the wiring, caps and such but I doubt you'll get much more voltage swing without building a new power supply. The space inside is very limited so it would have to be external or you could just use an external transformer, that would free up a lot of space. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I fully understand what you mean with "same drivers and cables but vastly different in almost every other sense".

 Different housing, damping, material, etc. sure will make headphones sound totally different, even if they use identical drivers and cables. That is part of what makes this hobby so fun. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Edit: 5000 posts. YoHooo! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good that we are on the same page.


----------



## denl82

Hi,
 How does the SR-303 headphone in the SRS-3050A system compare to the dt880...as far as bass weight(when it's present in the song), overall clarity, highs smoothness, airiness/softness of the music, and soundstage? Is the SRS-3050A in a completely different league than, say, the Dt880/Headfive combo? And, is the SRS-3050A worth the $756~? Sorry, I could barely find any info comparing the two headphones. And an important question, does the SRS-3050A found on Pricejapan.com need to be used with a voltage converter in the U.S., or I can just plug it into the wall and go? Has anyone ordered a Stax system from Pricejapan.com with the amp built for 100v input? Did the system come with a "step-up" "transformer"?

 Lastly, do you think the lower-end stax systems(specifically the SRS-2050A) would be a nice upgrade over my dt880's for a much cheaper price?

 FYI I listen to a lot of chillout music...downtempo, ambient, and sometimes lounge.

 Thanks for your help, have a great day!=]

 *edit* I've just read a review of the SRS-3030 system, and from it, I'm guessing that the SRS-3050A _might_ be in a totally different league from the dt880. Would love to still hear from someone who knows first hand, though
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Never mind, God inspired me to aim for the Omega 2s and get it over with. Wish me luck!


----------



## milkpowder

I can't give you direct advice because, 1. I haven't heard the 3050A and 2. I haven't heard the DT880/Headfive combo. However, I can give you _some_ impressions because I have directly compared a K701/Headfive to a 4040 system. If I may be so bold to say that based on the music I listen to and my own preferences, the 4040 was the clear winner. If you listen to a lot of chillout music, then the Stax bass should definitely sufficient. It's nice and deep with a good amount of weight. Detail is superb (better than most dynamics) and very relaxed sounding. I also like how pure vocals sound. Just talking about this makes me want to pick up a pair of Lambdas...


----------



## evil-zen

Hello fellow Staxians,

 I just bought this item on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-Omega-00...QQcmdZViewItem

 Do u think it is legit?


----------



## Duggeh

I havent seen the pictures before, so if it is real thats a ****ign steal. However its so much of a steal that if I'd seen it, I wouldn't have touched it.

 Seeing them stretched over the box like that is painful.


----------



## denl82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't give you direct advice because, 1. I haven't heard the 3050A and 2. I haven't heard the DT880/Headfive combo. However, I can give you some impressions because I have directly compared a K701/Headfive to a 4040 system. If I may be so bold to say that based on the music I listen to and my own preferences, the 4040 was the clear winner. If you listen to a lot of chillout music, then the Stax bass should definitely sufficient. It's nice and deep with a good amount of weight. Detail is superb (better than most dynamics) and very relaxed sounding. I also like how pure vocals sound. Just talking about this makes me want to pick up a pair of Lambdas..._

 

Thanks for your reply Milkpowder=]
 I'm kinda getting discouraged about aiming for such high-end headphones, cuz, like I already knew(but denied), my music probably isn't recorded with audiophile reproduction in mind(JUST imo), which isn't a good thing with such revealing headphones I hear. I can still give it a shot, because I'm sure any good stax system will be better than anything I've heard, but it will come with the "price" already mentioned. I...just feel ready to move on from my dt880's to something bigger and badder=]

 *edit* What do you think, should I give the STAX 'phones a chance despite there being a chance that they'll reveal everything in my music? I don't exactly have golden ears so it might work out.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello fellow Staxians,

 I just bought this item on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-Omega-00...QQcmdZViewItem

 Do u think it is legit?_

 

It looks like it's legit. The condition is ok but the pads are obviously shot. I would have bought it if my Meridian hadn't died this morning so it looks like a source upgrade is next on the agenda...


----------



## ironbut

spritzer;3097001 said:
			
		

> You can swap in 6S4's instead of the 6CG7's but you will need an adapter. You could always upgrade the wiring, caps and such but I doubt you'll get much more voltage swing without building a new power supply. The space inside is very limited so it would have to be external or you could just use an external transformer, that would free up a lot of space.
> 
> 
> Thanks spritzer. The external power supply sounds like the way to go.


----------



## milkpowder

How would one get an adapter for the 6S4? The tubes are dirt cheap compared to even the already very cheap 6CG7s. Also, why the 6S4?


----------



## krmathis

evil-zen, It looks legitimate to me.
 The price is a steal. You got it for $1700, while the last know pair sold for $3600, $3650 and around $4000 (same pair sold three times).

 Congratulations!
 ..and hope everything turn out ok.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_evil-zen, It looks legitimate to me.
 The price is a steal. You got it for $1700, while the last know pair sold for $3600, $3650 and around $4000 (same pair sold three times).

 Congratulations!
 ..and hope everything turn out ok._

 

Actually 1700$ is in the higher range. The 3600$ is in the same area as paying more then $8000 for a HE90, just silly.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually 1700$ is in the higher range. The 3600$ is in the same area as paying more then $8000 for a HE90, just silly._

 

Really? Then I sure have missed out of all those $1500-2000 SR-Omega deals.
 Good to know that $1700 is a more correct price, and that they show up for this price once in a while.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello fellow Staxians,

 I just bought this item on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-Omega-00...QQcmdZViewItem

 Do u think it is legit?_

 

Damn, you bet me on that one. Good job.

 Looks legit, but obviously you won't know with 100% certainty until they arrive. They'll need a bit of cosmetic work. I think Stax Japan still have a few SR-Ω earpads left in stock.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? Then I sure have missed out of all those $1500-2000 SR-Omega deals.
 Good to know that $1700 is a more correct price, and that they show up for this price once in a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Remember that people always pay too much for things on ebay.com. 1250 euros is a real price for a Omega 1, not the crazy bubble economy prices people have convinced themselves of around here.


----------



## Jenkins

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was having some trouble with my Sr-x phones. The right driver continuously crackled which had been a recurring problem.

 The crackling was due to oxidation of the metal ring around the mylar._

 

Dear all,
 I turn to you Stax connesseurs with a similar sounding problem. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The left ear speakers produces a soft, high pitch crackling / squeeking noise.
 Like rubbing some pieces of styrophone against each other.
 My Basic System is stil in warrenty, so I assume that a little D.I.Y. is out of the question.

 What do you think caused this problem????

 I'm looking forward to your reactions.

 Kind regards,
 Roy


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jenkins* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear all,
 I turn to you Stax connesseurs with a similar sounding problem. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The left ear speakers produces a soft, high pitch crackling noise.
 Like rubbing some pieces of styrophone against each other.
 My Basic System is stil in warrenty, so I assume that a little D.I.Y. is out of the question.

 What do you think caused this problem????

 I'm looking forward to your reactions.

 Kind regards,
 Roy_

 

Generally it's caused by some foreign matter coming into contact with the stators, although corrosion and lose cable connections have been known to cause a similar effect.


----------



## Jenkins

Hi Carl,

 Thanks for your quick reply!!!

 Damn! That doesn't sound too good, bearing in mind that the Stax is that young.
 Well, I guess there's only one solution; bring it back to the dealer / distributor to have it checked.
 Am I right?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remember that people always pay too much for things on ebay.com. 1250 euros is a real price for a Omega 1, not the crazy bubble economy prices people have convinced themselves of around here._

 

Sure, I am well aware of the crazy Head-Fi pricing.
 But that said its hard to pick an exact value/going rate for rare headphones, which only come up for sale once or twice a year. Especially when the previous three sales were in the $3500-4000 region and this last one at $1700.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jenkins* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Carl,

 Thanks for your quick reply!!!

 Damn! That doesn't sound too good, bearing in mind that the Stax is that young.
 Well, I guess there's only one solution; bring it back to the dealer / distributor to have it checked.
 Am I right?_

 

It probably was made that way. Just ask for a new set of drivers to be put into them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks legit, but obviously you won't know with 100% certainty until they arrive. They'll need a bit of cosmetic work. I think Stax Japan still have a few SR-Ω earpads left in stock._

 

I don't think they have any brown units left. Stax had some new ones made a few years ago and they are black for some strange reason. Chocolate brown is a must for them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remember that people always pay too much for things on ebay.com. 1250 euros is a real price for a Omega 1, not the crazy bubble economy prices people have convinced themselves of around here._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? Then I sure have missed out of all those $1500-2000 SR-Omega deals.
 Good to know that $1700 is a more correct price, and that they show up for this price once in a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's true we live in a bubble economy with most of the real world outside of it. People here will pay absurd amounts for a set of headphones and then use them with a horrible source and amp. There are even some here that are only in it to make money of the unfortunate souls that don't know any better. Just throwing more money at the setup isn't a good move and will only make the manufacturers to come up with insane prices for crappy equipment. Tara Labs The Zero and the new Lamm 110k$ amp are good examples of this.


----------



## edstrelow

spritzer;3095314 said:
			
		

> I
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## John Buchanan

Ed is quite correct here - no problems with the 717 driving the Sigma Pros


----------



## Icarium

Seems like a pretty good price for the SR-Omega, congrats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree totally with regard to the 717. I have been using this combo for some time with both a regular Sigma pro and a Sigma 404 and find it runs them excellently. An upgraded power cord and contact enhancer such as Silclear also helps. Even the SRM-3 is not bad with a Sigma pro with the above tweaks._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ed is quite correct here - no problems with the 717 driving the Sigma Pros_

 

I think that we are talking about two different things here. While the SRM-313 can drive an Sigma Pro to loud levels it just doesn't have the power reserves to tightly control the diaphragm when things get rough. The 717 is a better amp in almost every respect but it can't control the difficult phones like for instance a KGSS or KGBH can. It's hard to recognize this unless you've spent an extended time with a better amp and done back to forth comparisons but it's there. Every electrostatic headphone sounds better with the extra voltage and current behind them but some can sound worse on a better, more powerful amp. The amp is revealing problems that the "more synergistic" model omitted. 

 Regarding the contact enhancers I've tried them and they do work to a certain degree but it's a bit like putting a Band-Aid on a bullet wound. The problem is the connectors and the wires behind them so I just use the best available so no enhancer needed.


----------



## ferrstein

Hey Folks! I got some new toys... two very nice pair of SR-Lambdas, an SRD-7sb and an SRD-6sb. I'm doing a comparison with my Lambda Pros, and I gotta say I can't hear as big a difference as I thought I would! They do have a slightly different tonal signature, but the difference is subtle... and I don't know which I like better. I'll report back after I listen more. Either way I plan on selling one of each of my Lambdas... two pair of each is more inventory than I need to keep right now!

 Oh... and I have an SRD-7pro as well. Does anyone know what the difference is between the transformers in the SRD-7sb and the SRD-7pro? Is the difference simply that the '7pro has a constant AC bias circuit versus the self-biasing circuit of the '7sb? Is there a preference between the two? I do most of my listening through an SRM1/MkII, but I do like the sound of the transformers on occasion. 

 Also, is it worth modifying the circuit board of the SRD-7pro to have a normal bias output for my SR-Lambdas, or am I getting the same performance with the self-biasing SRD-7sb? Has anyone done this comparison? The '7sb does sound pretty good with the SR-Lambdas. I just wonder if I'm truly comparing apples-to-apples with the Lambda pro/SRD-7pro combination versus the SR-Lambda/SRD-7sb.

 Man, this Staxen terminology is confusing. I need a drink!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Folks! I got some new toys... two very nice pair of SR-Lambdas, an SRD-7sb and an SRD-6sb. I'm doing a comparison with my Lambda Pros, and I gotta say I can't hear as big a difference as I thought I would! They do have a slightly different tonal signature, but the difference is subtle... and I don't know which I like better. I'll report back after I listen more. Either way I plan on selling one of each of my Lambdas... two pair of each is more inventory than I need to keep right now!

 Oh... and I have an SRD-7pro as well. Does anyone know what the difference is between the transformers in the SRD-7sb and the SRD-7pro? Is the difference simply that the '7pro has a constant AC bias circuit versus the self-biasing circuit of the '7sb? Is there a preference between the two? I do most of my listening through an SRM1/MkII, but I do like the sound of the transformers on occasion. 

 Also, is it worth modifying the circuit board of the SRD-7pro to have a normal bias output for my SR-Lambdas, or am I getting the same performance with the self-biasing SRD-7sb? Has anyone done this comparison? The '7sb does sound pretty good with the SR-Lambdas. I just wonder if I'm truly comparing apples-to-apples with the Lambda pro/SRD-7pro combination versus the SR-Lambda/SRD-7sb.

 Man, this Staxen terminology is confusing. I need a drink!_

 

To my ears the SR-Lambda and Pro are vastly different but YMMV. I'll go into much more detail in my Lambda comparison. 

 I haven't spent much time comparing the transformers but the SB's are pretty good. The isolation from the AC source will far outweigh any shortcomings of the extra transformer. They are also much better then other SB models from other manufacturers, never running out of steam. I believe they use the same transformers, the MK2 used an upgraded model.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hi, just checking in. I don't know if anyone has answered this question before as I don't want to search through the 130 pages of this thread; so can anyone tell me what, if any, are the pros and cons of the SRM 007t and the new SRM 007t? Thanks Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, just checking in. I don't know if anyone has answered this question before as I don't want to search through the 130 pages of this thread; so can anyone tell me what, if any, are the pros and cons of the SRM 007t and the new SRM 007t? Thanks Scottsmrnyc_

 

Are you asking about the 007tII? It's not really that new. Unlike the change from the 717 to the 727II, I don't think there was any topology changes at all.


----------



## krmathis

Do you guys know someone who have replacement earpads for the SR-Lambda Pro's.
 I have been in contact with Kohn at AudioCubes, but according to him they can only get me light grey pads for the SR-202. While I need black ones...

 Any ideas?


----------



## spritzer

The present day SR-202 pads are the same as the old SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro pads. The SR-303 uses the gray pads. I just received a couple of pairs from Audio Cubes and they are the same color and texture. If the Signature pads were this easy to get my life would be so much better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Damn you Stax for changing the design, color and material with every generation!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The present day SR-202 pads are the same as the old SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro pads. The SR-303 uses the gray pads. I just received a couple of pairs from Audio Cubes and they are the same color and texture._

 

Thanks!
 So you ordered these SR-202 pads, and received a pair of all black one. Right?
  Quote:


 Damn you Stax for changing the design, color and material with every generation!!! 
 

Ditto!
 Four different coloured (black, grey, and two grades of brown) pads for the different Lambda 'phones are ridiculous.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Either way I plan on selling one of each of my Lambdas... two pair of each is more inventory than I need to keep right now!
_

 






 when are they gonna be available? will they go on ebay or the for-sale section here?


 Definitly interested


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Either way I plan on selling one of each of my Lambdas... two pair of each is more inventory than I need to keep right now!_

 

I am interested in the SR-Lambda (non-Pro).
 PM me when you are ready to sell. If you want to sell international that is...


----------



## AudioCats

hey, I am interested in low-biased lambda's too.....


 It is all Birgir's fault........


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!
 So you ordered these SR-202 pads, and received a pair of all black one. Right?_

 

That is the one I bought. Audiocubes should really do a once over on their site and correct all the wrong information. . 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto!
 Four different coloured (black, grey, and two grades of brown) pads for the different Lambda 'phones are ridiculous._

 

Actually there are black, blue gray, gray, chocolate brown (Signature), light brown (Nova Signature) and the new 404 chocolate brown. The black and original chocolate brown are all normal vinyl. Then there is the light brown and blue gray with a new covering material and black vinyl backing. This was used on the Nova line. There were some durability problems with the new covering material so it was changed for the new series. The gray and new chocolate brown pads use the new artificial leather pads and use a similarly colored vinyl for the back. There were also some changes to the foam inside to make it seal better so the new bads are more "fluffy". 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey, I am interested in low-biased lambda's too.....


 It is all Birgir's fault........
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey, it's not my fault I love them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You should really buy a set before I post my big Lambda comparison...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is the one I bought. Audiocubes should really do a once over on their site and correct all the wrong information._

 

Then I take a chance and order a couple of pairs.
 I am skeptic, because the previous pads (Omega II ones) I ordered from AudioCubes was advertised as black but while I received the brown ones.

  Quote:


 Actually there are black, blue gray, gray, chocolate brown (Signature), light brown (Nova Signature) and the new 404 chocolate brown. 
 

Wow! All those variations.
 Well that makes the case even worse..

  Quote:


 Hey, it's not my fault I love them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You should really buy a set before I post my big Lambda comparison... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I will!
 If I can get a hold of a pair, for a fair price, that is.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then I take a chance and order a couple of pairs.
 I am skeptic, because the previous pads (Omega II ones) I ordered from AudioCubes was advertised as black but while I received the brown ones._

 

All of the Lambda pads are listed as gray so it's probably a copy/paste error. I ordered the Sr-007 pads from them a few years back and they were brown not black like the site says. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will!
 If I can get a hold of a pair, for a fair price, that is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't pay too much. These things can break down after all...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All of the Lambda pads are listed as gray so it's probably a copy/paste error._

 

Well, I just placed an order for the following goods:
3 x SR-202 replacement pads
2 x SR-X/MK3 replacement pads
2 x CPC-1 (protection cover)
 Quote:


 I ordered the Sr-007 pads from them a few years back and they were brown not black like the site says. 
 

Exactly like my experience!
 But after I complained and asked for a refund they changed the text from "black" to "brown".
  Quote:


 Don't pay too much. These things can break down after all... 
 

No fear!
 I don't intend to join any of the bidding wars...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I just placed an order for the following goods:
3 x SR-202 replacement pads
2 x SR-X/MK3 replacement pads
2 x CPC-1 (protection cover)
_

 

That reminds me I need to order some more pads because I didn't buy enough. You didn't include one SR-003 in while you were at it? Great little headphones and sound very good out of the Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No fear!
 I don't intend to join any of the bidding wars... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good, because we really don't need another Lambda Pro or SR-X Mk3.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You didn't include one SR-003 in while you were at it? Great little headphones and sound very good out of the Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, you obviously read my mind.
 Cause I stopped by the SR-003. But went on without it, since I remember the discomfort I experienced with the S-001 MKII. In addition the incoming 4070 should keep me occupied for a while...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, you obviously read my mind.
 Cause I stopped by the SR-003. But went on without it, since I remember the discomfort I experienced with the S-001 MKII. In addition the incoming 4070 should keep me occupied for a while... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nahh no mind reading here, just the common Stax addict sixth sense. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There are comfort issues with them but with the medium pads, and the headband they work for me. Had to bend the headband quite a bit though. 

 I really want a 4070 but a source upgrade is calling me. The G08's drive is pretty much broken and I can't take the crappy dvd-rom drive any more so I want some thing better and much better built, like an Esoteric or and Accuphase. Mmmmm VRDS-Neo...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nahh no mind reading here, just the common Stax addict sixth sense. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There are comfort issues with them but with the medium pads, and the headband they work for me. Had to bend the headband quite a bit though._

 

I might pick up the SR-003 one day, caause I liked their sound signature. They are quite fun headphones, especially considering their small physical size.
  Quote:


 I really want a 4070 but a source upgrade is calling me. The G08's drive is pretty much broken and I can't take the crappy dvd-rom drive any more so I want some thing better and much better built, like an Esoteric or and Accuphase. Mmmmm VRDS-Neo... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I hear you.
 A great source is very important, so you sure have got your priorities right. You can always buy the 4070 longer down the road.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Do I understand this correctly: there are people on this thread who DON'T have a record player?!

 Gadzooks!

 ("Light blue touch paper and stand well back... ")


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I understand this correctly: there are people on this thread who DON'T have a record player?!_

 

You mean "Record player" as in CD player or turntable? Lots of us run computer based rigs, if that counts?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might pick up the SR-003 one day, caause I liked their sound signature. They are quite fun headphones, especially considering their small physical size._

 

Their biggest plus is the thick (relatively) diaphragm that gives them the same bass snap the SR-Lambda has. They are edgy and uneven but fun and pretty comfortable after some adjustments. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear you.
 A great source is very important, so you sure have got your priorities right. You can always buy the 4070 longer down the road._

 

True. I'm going to stop upgrading my system for now, clean up the power system, make all the cables I need and buy a new equipment stand or two. I do loose focus quite a bit and buy something new that I don't really need (the 29 electrostatic headphones in this room alone should be proof enough) instead of upgrading my main system. I call it the Head-fi syndrome because I'm not alone in this. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I understand this correctly: there are people on this thread who DON'T have a record player?!

 Gadzooks!

 ("Light blue touch paper and stand well back... ")_

 

I have two and I'm buying a new idler to completely rebuild and build a new plinth for but I never use them. I have hundreds of records but I simply can't stand the hassle and I have a tendency to break small delicate things like pickups. I've heard how good (and bad) digital can be and that's the sound I like. Digital has matured enough now that a top end cdp is equal to or even better then a TOTL turntable and costs hell of a lot less. In the end it's all about preference and I prefer digital no matter how many audiophiles try to convert me.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I understand this correctly: there are people on this thread who DON'T have a record player?!

 Gadzooks!

 ("Light blue touch paper and stand well back... ")_

 

I have 6000 or so CDs and I play almost all of them occasionally.

 I used to have about 8000 LPs and most of them were in storage all the time because the difficulty of handling and playing them.

 My turntables are in boxes in storage; a turntable is just a nuisance; a CD player is a convenience. I'm thinking of getting a multiCD jukebox player.

 So, who do you think has more music, the guy with the CD player or the guy with the turntable?

 Your friend from Trollsville, 

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the contact enhancers I've tried them and they do work to a certain degree but it's a bit like putting a Band-Aid on a bullet wound. The problem is the connectors and the wires behind them so I just use the best available so no enhancer needed._

 

I realize that this discussion is drifting into the tweak forum, but even Silclear is cheaper by orders of magnitude than expensive cables, i.e. about US$ .01 / application. My best IC's and power cords are about $90.00. I see some that run many times that.

 Even if the contact enhancers give only a portion of the benefit of expensive cables they are a great bargain. However, I assume that even the best cables will sound better with a good contact enhancer since there is still the contact issue. So you are not getting the full benefit of your investment in you system if you don't use such tweaks.

 In any case, I find that this specific tweak is a cheap way of specifically improving the sound of electrostatic amps and phones.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do loose focus quite a bit and buy something new that I don't really need (the 29 electrostatic headphones in this room alone should be proof enough) instead of upgrading my main system. I call it the Head-fi syndrome because I'm not alone in this. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hear hear.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, who do you think has more music, the guy with the CD player or the guy with the turntable?_

 

But of course, it's the guy with both! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even if the contact enhancers give only a portion of the benefit of expensive cables they are a great bargain. However, I assume that even the best cables will sound better with a good contact enhancer since there is still the contact issue. So you are not getting the full benefit of your investment in you system if you don't use such tweaks.

 In any case, I find that this specific tweak is a cheap way of specifically improving the sound of electrostatic amps and phones._

 

Alternatively you could directly solder your components together, which is an even cheaper tweak.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I realize that this discussion is drifting into the tweak forum, but even Silclear is cheaper by orders of magnitude than expensive cables, i.e. about US$ .01 / application. My best IC's and power cords are about $90.00. I see some that run many times that.

 Even if the contact enhancers give only a portion of the benefit of expensive cables they are a great bargain. However, I assume that even the best cables will sound better with a good contact enhancer since there is still the contact issue. So you are not getting the full benefit of your investment in you system if you don't use such tweaks.

 In any case, I find that this specific tweak is a cheap way of specifically improving the sound of electrostatic amps and phones._

 

Cables are expensive, that's for sure, and many audiophile believe the crap they are selling is actually good. Most of the stuff is way overpriced and will harm the sound more then help it but there are a few companies that are selling a good product that works, like Kimber and Kondo for example. Not cheap but they are worth it. 

 The connectors are a big part of the sound and the same goes for the jacks on the equipment. With lesser connectors the enhancers do help quite bit but with the Eichmann bullets or the WBT NexTgen connectors there isn't much of a difference. 

 If you should DIY some simple low mass soft silver cables with natural insulation. You'll be amazed at how good they are and while they aren't cheap I haven't yet heard a commercial cable that can beat my DIY's. Even the very good Kimber KS-1130 just sits in it's Pelican case unused. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hear hear._

 

I think it's something to work on. I'll also have to find a good way to store all of these headphones in a relatively dust free environment where they are easy to get when I want.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The connectors are a big part of the sound and the same goes for the jacks on the equipment. With lesser connectors the enhancers do help quite bit but with the Eichmann bullets or the WBT NexTgen connectors there isn't much of a difference._

 

Slightly off thread topic, but let me ask you guys this: Does anyone else find the WBT Nextgen jacks (copper w/ spiral contacts) ridiculously tight? I'm going through hell trying to swap interconnects on the Esoteric. How in the world do you remove the RCAs without having to use so much force? They sure are expensive, but they're not very convenient... I've basically stopped using the RCA jacks in fear of damaging/scratching the copper contacts and now using the balanced outputs instead
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... and btw, placebo or not, balanced sounds better than single ended through my electrostats, so I will stick to balanced for the time being


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Slightly off thread topic, but let me ask you guys this: Does anyone else find the WBT Nextgen jacks (copper w/ spiral contacts) ridiculously tight? I'm going through hell trying to swap interconnects on the Esoteric. How in the world do you remove the RCAs without having to use so much force? They sure are expensive, but they're not very convenient... I've basically stopped using the RCA jacks in fear of damaging/scratching the copper contacts and now using the balanced outputs instead
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... and btw, placebo or not, balanced sounds better than single ended through my electrostats, so I will stick to balanced for the time being
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are really tight and they can take a lot of beating. There are some RCA connectors that don't work very well with them but they should be avoided on sonic grounds alone. The newer minimal conducting mass models work just fine. 

 I bet they sound better balanced because Esoteric sources are designed to be used balanced and electrostats are push-pull by nature.


----------



## spritzer

I just wanted to chime in regarding the SR-202 pads. I've spent the last few hours putting on new pads on most of my collection and the SR-202 pads are indeed the same pads that the Lambda Pro's were shipped with about 25 years ago. The new pads are softer then the set on my nearly NOS Pro's but that is probably just due to the vinyl aging. The construction is the same while the original SR-Lambda pads were slightly different with the foam glued onto the baffle instead of being sown in between the vinyl back of the pads and the foam inside.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Their biggest plus is the thick (relatively) diaphragm that gives them the same bass snap the SR-Lambda has. They are edgy and uneven but fun and pretty comfortable after some adjustments._

 

Keep on and you will soon convince me into buying the SR-003.
 Way to go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote:


 I do loose focus quite a bit and buy something new that I don't really need (the 29 electrostatic headphones in this room alone should be proof enough) instead of upgrading my main system.
 I call it the Head-fi syndrome because I'm not alone in this. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

You are certainly not alone.
 I have a long way to go before I catch up with your 29 electrostatic headphones, and sure hope I never do. But this hobby sure is addictive and its easy to buy more 'phones than you can make any practical use of.

 I currently own five Stax phones, and have number six on the way. Next one out might be an SR-Lambda, then....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Keep on and you will soon convince me into buying the SR-003.
 Way to go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Why not make them nr.7... You know you want to!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are certainly not alone.
 I have a long way to go before I catch up with your 29 electrostatic headphones, and sure hope I never do. But this hobby sure is addictive and its easy to buy more 'phones than you can make any practical use of.

 I currently own five Stax phones, and have number six on the way. Next one out might be an SR-Lambda, then...._

 

It is pretty addictive alright...


----------



## audiod

I have a question for Carl (or anyone with experience with the 4070). I love my O2’s about 95% of the time, but on some music I like to listen to my low bias Lambda’s or Lambda Pro’s. I am not a big fan of the 404 because of the bite in the upper midrange. How would you compare the 4070’s to the 404’s (that have the same drivers) or the earlier Lambda’s. The 4070’s are expensive and I would only consider them unless they were a significant step up over the regular Lambda series. I would have a SRM-007t or 717 to drive them.

 Thanks for any comments,
 AudioD


----------



## facelvega

quick question: will a european SRD-7 work on American power mains with a simple plug adapter? Anything else necessary?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_quick question: will a european SRD-7 work on American power mains with a simple plug adapter? Anything else necessary?_

 

My (mains bias) SRD-7 has '100-240v' and '50/60Hz' on the back so the answer must be 'yes', a simple replacement of the mains plug should allow it to work OK in the US (or even Japan!).

 (On the other hand you'd better wait for the Stax heavyweights in Iceland and New Zealand [not forgetting our US Stax brethren!] to give a definitive answer!)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_quick question: will a european SRD-7 work on American power mains with a simple plug adapter? Anything else necessary?_

 

Yes. I have three SRD-7's (the regular, MKII and Pro), and they are all accept input of 100-240 volt.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(On the other hand you'd better wait for the Stax heavyweights in Iceland and New Zealand [not forgetting our US Stax brethren!] to give a definitive answer!)_

 

 ...er, and Norway!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...er, and Norway!_

 

He he
 For a time I felt left out...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_quick question: will a european SRD-7 work on American power mains with a simple plug adapter? Anything else necessary?_

 

A European unit will work anywhere in the world. It's the older Japanese units that are 100v only but they should be just fine running on 117v if the parts inside can handle the extra 30v.


----------



## facelvega

Perfect. It seems I've managed to cajole our friend Cosmopragma into selling me his SR-X and an SRD-7, which will either join my SR-5 / SRD-6sb or displace them entirely, haven't decided yet. Now I just need a new amp to put behind them, or maybe I'll break out my Adcom for this duty once I get back to the US.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A European unit will work anywhere in the world. It's the older Japanese units that are 100v only but they should be just fine running on 117v if the parts inside can handle the extra 30v._

 

117 - 100 = 30?

 100 + 30 = 117?

 Been on the vodka already this morning, spritzer?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question for Carl (or anyone with experience with the 4070). I love my O2’s about 95% of the time, but on some music I like to listen to my low bias Lambda’s or Lambda Pro’s. I am not a big fan of the 404 because of the bite in the upper midrange. How would you compare the 4070’s to the 404’s (that have the same drivers) or the earlier Lambda’s. The 4070’s are expensive and I would only consider them unless they were a significant step up over the regular Lambda series. I would have a SRM-007t or 717 to drive them.

 Thanks for any comments,
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, all lambdas have the spike at 3.8kHz, it's caused mechanically by the housing, not something that some drivers have and some don't. The effect is masked on the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro by the foam stuffed into the back of them, so it'd be pretty easy to take a 404 or even a 202/Lambda Sig/Nova Signature/Airbow SC1 and stuff some foam in there to achieve the same effect. I think the Lambda Sigs have the nicest sounding drivers of the series (based on current experiences, so subject to change), so that would be my pick for a foamification if you wanted to try it out.

 In terms of the resonant properties of the 4070s housing, it's different more than better. The spike is spread over a greater range of frequencies (or a lower Q if you want to be technical), so isn't as sharp. Unlike the Lambda series there is a drop in the upper mids to contend with. The backwave has to work not just against foam, but against a physical chamber, so that alters the timbre somewhat, but it's hard to describe in technical terms. The frequency response is more V-shaped whereas the un-foamed lambdas have a hard to describe 'scooped' sound that's [thankfully] quite unique.

 Anyway, I don't think the 4070s is exactly what you're looking for, although I would still suggest you give them a listen if the opportunity presented itself.

 Of course, there are always (dear I suggest such an abhorent thing) other electrostatics out there. ESP-950s and HE60s are vaguely Lambda-esque but without large resonsant spikes (and no need for think foam to mask it, either, so they're quicker on their feet), or you could even have a look at some of the more obscure aspects of electrostatdom like the SR-3/3N/5 family or something.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My (mains bias) SRD-7 has '100-240v' and '50/60Hz' on the back so the answer must be 'yes', a simple replacement of the mains plug should allow it to work OK in the US (or even Japan!).

 (On the other hand you'd better wait for the Stax heavyweights in Iceland and New Zealand [not forgetting our US Stax brethren!] to give a definitive answer!)_

 

Yeah, it's 100-240v. I wish more stuff would come like that.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_117 - 100 = 30?

 100 + 30 = 117?

 Been on the vodka already this morning, spritzer?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's no fair. He get's to drink warming vodka on a summer's morning, and it's a winter's night over here and I get nothing. Where's the justice?


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, I don't think the 4070s is exactly what you're looking for, although I would still suggest you give them a listen if the opportunity presented itself._

 

Audiod - x2 on the above. Carl did a great job covering all of the bases, and while most of what he just typed is above my head, I can wholeheartedly agree with his recommendation(s) noted above (I own both and I like the added spike every now and then). And, not to contradict everything that I just typed, but the 4070s would be an excellent complement to the OIIs...that's how it is for me anyway...if you get the chance, give them a try.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the 4070s would be an excellent complement to the OIIs_

 

They're seriously different sounding headphones, though. Once you're used to one, the other will sound really weird until your hearing adjusts (or at least I think so).


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're seriously different sounding headphones, though. Once you're used to one, the other will sound really weird until your hearing adjusts (or at least I think so)._

 

True; complement in terms of being different. 
 After I typed the above, I broke out the 4070s (after mostly listening to the OIIs). OIIs are definately more comfortable...I like em' both...not better, just different.

 -Cliff


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_117 - 100 = 30?

 100 + 30 = 117?

 Been on the vodka already this morning, spritzer?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

There must be some left in my veins since last night, along with some beer, tequila and other nice things but the math is still relatively correct. Very old Stax used a bias voltage of 200v, i.e. a simple voltage doubler so when you increase the the input voltage by 15-17v you get a 30-34v increase. Who said that alcohol is bad for the mind, the stomach yes but not the mind. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's no fair. He get's to drink warming vodka on a summer's morning, and it's a winter's night over here and I get nothing. Where's the justice?_

 

It is a very nice summer morning. Comfortable 20°C, no wind and a clear blue sky, perfect for sitting indoors and listen to some tunes.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is a very nice summer morning. Comfortable 20°C, no wind and a clear blue sky, perfect for sitting indoors and listen to some tunes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm indoors too, but only because I don't want to freeze to death.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm indoors too, but only because I don't want to freeze to death._

 

Good move. It's good that it is really never all that cold here during the winter. The wind is pretty nasty though.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, I don't think the 4070s is exactly what you're looking for, although I would still suggest you give them a listen if the opportunity presented itself.

 Of course, there are always (dear I suggest such an abhorent thing) other electrostatics out there. ESP-950s and HE60s are vaguely Lambda-esque but without large resonsant spikes (and no need for think foam to mask it, either, so they're quicker on their feet), or you could even have a look at some of the more obscure aspects of electrostatdom like the SR-3/3N/5 family or something._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Audiod - x2 on the above. Carl did a great job covering all of the bases, and while most of what he just typed is above my head, I can wholeheartedly agree with his recommendation(s) noted above (I own both and I like the added spike every now and then). And, not to contradict everything that I just typed, but the 4070s would be an excellent complement to the OIIs...that's how it is for me anyway...if you get the chance, give them a try._

 

Carl & Snacks thanks for your advise.
 I've owned the HE-60's and ESP-950's before but used their rotten amps. I would like to hear them with a Stax amp. I would also like to hear the 4070's. I listen to my SR-X III and SR-5 for nostalgic reasons only. They have one or more serious drawbacks. Although the SR-X sound great with a little EQ.

 AudioD


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good move. It's good that it is really never all that cold here during the winter. The wind is pretty nasty though._

 

So that's why it's called 'Iceland': because that's what you put in the vodka, not anything to do with the ambient winter temperature?

 God, but I learn LOADS on this website! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Oh, and congrats on the Maths, by the way: 10/10!)


----------



## spritzer

I'm more of a Bailey's on the rocks kind of man myself but you got the gist of it.


----------



## ericj

I've recently started actually using my ESP9. I hadn't been using them because of lack of pads. 

 I know that Pro4AA pads work on them, but the Pro4AA is slightly smaller than the ESP9, and the pads that Koss sent me were impossible for me to stretch onto the ESP9 and I only just barely got them to stretch onto my Pro4AA. 

 So, the other day the lightbulb over my head finally lit up and i realized that having sat on the Pro4AA for a couple months, the pads had probably stretched out enough to fit on the ESP9. 

 And in fact they do fit now. Just barely. 

 I've got some intermittant squealing on the right side. 

 When i first hooked them up friday, it was pretty bad. If i switched to self-biased, the squeal went away, but the audio also wasn't as good. So i switched back to regular bias and left them playing for a few hours. When i came back to them, they sounded perfect. I listened for an hour or so and then set them aside. 

 I haven't turned off the bias supply since then. This is with my new, american-market E.9 supply. I hadn't heard this squealing with the old european-market E.9, but i never had proper bias from that. 

 So when i picked them up again last night and started listening again, I was surprised that the squeal was back, but only persisted for a few minutes after the music started playing. 

 Is this more likely an issue in the headphones themselves or the bias supply? I kinda plan to do a full diode replacement in the E.9 but since it doesn't hum i haven't been really hot to do that yet. 

 My best guess so far is that it's an issue in the headphones, possibly a connection issue between the board in the left cup and the board in the right cup.


----------



## Carl

I'd say either the diaphragm/cable is leaking bias or there is some gunk in there.


----------



## AudioCats

maybe letting them play for a week will solve the problem? I kind of remember my ESP7 had that problem, and now they play very well.The ESP7 box is self-biased, I just pick a radio station and let the phones run.......


----------



## shey getz

I wonder if any of you guys has ever put new earpads on their SR-5 (Gold or N/NB), be they Stax' own or a different make. I've owned these for about 15 years and always hated the sweat-conducive leatherette. Also, over the years, the padding has become somewhat flat or so I feel, though I couldn't say for sure for lack of a new specimen to compare with.

 Recently I had some DT880 to listen to and just for kicks I pulled off their pads and put them on the Stax, which worked pretty well. Those were velour pads though, and while I could only listen to these on my SR-5 for a short while, it seemed they kinda veiled their sound, took the bite out of them. But there is a leatherette version, too, and quite readily available. Maybe that would be an improvement.

 Hendrik


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_Perfect. It seems I've managed to cajole our friend Cosmopragma into selling me his SR-X and an SRD-7, which will either join my SR-5 / SRD-6sb or displace them entirely, haven't decided yet. Now I just need a new amp to put behind them, or maybe I'll break out my Adcom for this duty once I get back to the US._

 

Excellent! Within their limitations, they're landmark 'phones. Then all you'll need will be a Fostex T50 and you'll have it all!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* 
_I have three SRD-7's (the regular, MKII and Pro)_

 

Can you confirm that the Mk2 has different/upgraded transformers?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shey getz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if any of you guys has ever put new earpads on their SR-5 (Gold or N/NB), be they Stax' own or a different make. I've owned these for about 15 years and always hated the sweat-conducive leatherette. Also, over the years, the padding has become somewhat flat or so I feel, though I couldn't say for sure for lack of a new specimen to compare with.

 Recently I had some DT880 to listen to and just for kicks I pulled off their pads and put them on the Stax, which worked pretty well. Those were velour pads though, and while I could only listen to these on my SR-5 for a short while, it seemed they kinda veiled their sound, took the bite out of them. But there is a leatherette version, too, and quite readily available. Maybe that would be an improvement.

 Hendrik_

 

C-pads for old Staxes? Sounds like a great idea. The SR-Xmk3 probably be more suitable than the SR-5, though.

 I'm pretty sure the Beyer pads are geniune leather, not artificial. They're more expensive than the velour ones. My favourite pads are the leather ones for the Sony SA5000, they're the perfect size and firmness, but they're hard to track down.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent! Within their limitations, they're landmark 'phones. Then all you'll need will be a Fostex T50 and you'll have it all!_

 

Don't think I'm not looking, it's just that there are practically no old Fostex in Germany. Also, I'm afraid we've managed to push T50 prices up past those of an SR-X by now. Otherwise, I'm concentrating on source and amping for the next few months at least. Oh, and listening to music.


----------



## krmathis

I wonder if this pair/auction is real? Hmmm...
eBay.co.uk -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I am pretty sure I have seen one of the pictures before, bu not quite sure.


----------



## urs

Audiodod,

 I could only recommend the 4070 _IF_ you insist on using a closed electrostatic phone, meaning you need good sound isolation from or towards the outside.

 otherwise, I'm confident, you'll find other options, (including those with better value for money ratios !!, and more comfort) as indicated above.

 regards

 Urs

 [size=xx-small]My 4070 is currently neatly boxed, as I'm mainly using the O2 or the Sony R-10 for "closed" applications[/size]


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if this pair/auction is real? Hmmm...
eBay.co.uk -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I am pretty sure I have seen one of the pictures before, bu not quite sure._

 

_Probably_ not, but I'm not 100% sure about this one. The new seller bit freaks me out, and all those blatently fake O1 auctions were from the UK. I guess if someone wanted to contact the seller and see if he could supply a picture of the headphones next to today's paper it'd be game on, but the chance of that happening is pretty slim.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if this pair/auction is real? Hmmm...
eBay.co.uk -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I am pretty sure I have seen one of the pictures before, bu not quite sure._

 

LOL, Omega I ebay auctions started by sellers with zero or low count feedback aren't exactly rare.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL, Omega I ebay auctions started by sellers with zero or low count feedback aren't exactly rare._

 

True!
 But all of those fake auctions have been using well known pictures from earlier auctions. While I am unsure about these pictures. I agree that 0 feedbacks looks suspicious though...

 I will contact the seller asking for a picture showing the SR-Omega, and a paper with his user name and todays date.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Hi, I have a question regarding the SR 303 construction.

 My 303 headphones had a problem for the second time and I sent them to Stax Germany for repairment. Today I got them back with new drivers installed and when I looked at them I noticed something was different. Looking at the inner side I see the foam layer and right beneath it there is a silvery wire mesh I don't remember having ever seen before. I think it used to be a grey (?) plastic grille there, what is going on? Maybe the wire mesh was there before but was masked by this plastic grille they forgot to mount back in? Can someone enlighten me?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I've just wrte them about this, but I'm anxious to find out what is going on and Head-Fi is usually faster in providing informations 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks a lot.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've recently started actually using my ESP9. I hadn't been using them because of lack of pads. 

 I know that Pro4AA pads work on them, but the Pro4AA is slightly smaller than the ESP9, and the pads that Koss sent me were impossible for me to stretch onto the ESP9 and I only just barely got them to stretch onto my Pro4AA. 

 So, the other day the lightbulb over my head finally lit up and i realized that having sat on the Pro4AA for a couple months, the pads had probably stretched out enough to fit on the ESP9. 

 And in fact they do fit now. Just barely. 

 I've got some intermittant squealing on the right side. 

 When i first hooked them up friday, it was pretty bad. If i switched to self-biased, the squeal went away, but the audio also wasn't as good. So i switched back to regular bias and left them playing for a few hours. When i came back to them, they sounded perfect. I listened for an hour or so and then set them aside. 

 I haven't turned off the bias supply since then. This is with my new, american-market E.9 supply. I hadn't heard this squealing with the old european-market E.9, but i never had proper bias from that. 

 So when i picked them up again last night and started listening again, I was surprised that the squeal was back, but only persisted for a few minutes after the music started playing. 

 Is this more likely an issue in the headphones themselves or the bias supply? I kinda plan to do a full diode replacement in the E.9 but since it doesn't hum i haven't been really hot to do that yet. 

 My best guess so far is that it's an issue in the headphones, possibly a connection issue between the board in the left cup and the board in the right cup._

 

It sounds like an electric problem (diodes, caps) but the headphones could be at fault. There could be a bias leak from the diaphragm over to the back stator and thus ground but I doubt it. The front stator is behind the dustcover so there isn't a direct pathway to it but it could happen. 

 I think it is linked to the bias supply's but to make things interesting Koss decided to have them of a different voltage so when you apply the higher AC bias a cap nearing it's end might start to squeal. 

 The transformer box is the same version as the phones right? Not an A or B model because that could cause some ground issues. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shey getz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if any of you guys has ever put new earpads on their SR-5 (Gold or N/NB), be they Stax' own or a different make. I've owned these for about 15 years and always hated the sweat-conducive leatherette. Also, over the years, the padding has become somewhat flat or so I feel, though I couldn't say for sure for lack of a new specimen to compare with.

 Recently I had some DT880 to listen to and just for kicks I pulled off their pads and put them on the Stax, which worked pretty well. Those were velour pads though, and while I could only listen to these on my SR-5 for a short while, it seemed they kinda veiled their sound, took the bite out of them. But there is a leatherette version, too, and quite readily available. Maybe that would be an improvement.

 Hendrik_

 

You can get replacement SR-1/3/5 pads form Audiocubes2.com but I'm pretty sure that the SR-007 pads would work as well. I don't have an extra set with me now so I can't try it out but the mounting is similar, so is the size and they are leather and one of the best pads ever made. Expansive though.

 If you use velour pads the sound can escape through the material easily and thus increases the airpocket the driver has to push against, transforming the sound. It wont hurt the drivers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if this pair/auction is real? Hmmm...
eBay.co.uk -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I am pretty sure I have seen one of the pictures before, bu not quite sure._

 

At least one of the pictures is of SR-Omega nr. 249 that did the rounds on ebay and head-fi last winter. Replacement headbands aren't exactly common items for the SR-Omega so that's a big red flag.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I have a question regarding the SR 303 construction.

 My 303 headphones had a problem for the second time and I sent them to Stax Germany for repairment. Today I got them back with new drivers installed and when I looked at them I noticed something was different. Looking at the inner side I see the foam layer and right beneath it there is a silvery wire mesh I don't remember having ever seen before. I think it used to be a grey (?) plastic grille there, what is going on? Maybe the wire mesh was there before but was masked by this plastic grille they forgot to mount back in? Can someone enlighten me?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've just wrte them about this, but I'm anxious to find out what is going on and Head-Fi is usually faster in providing informations 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks a lot._

 

Here you can see they are supposed to look but there isn't a good picture of them without the earpad. There is supposed to be a protective mesh on the ear side of the driver. They have always been black but Stax could have changed it.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here you can see they are supposed to look but there isn't a good picture of them without the earpad. There is supposed to be a protective mesh on the ear side of the driver. They have always been black but Stax could have changed it._

 

Thanks for the quick reply. The protective mesh should be made out of wire? I'm 99% sure there was a plastic grille there, so it doesn't look like just the color has changed. Also, there is more space beneath the foam layer than I remember there was, as if something was there and now is missing. I don't have a digital camera right now to take a picture and show it to you, but I'm sure I've seen telling pictures of the 303/404 here on head-fi, I just can't manage to find them. 
 Could anybody with a 303/404 phone please check if the piece located right under the foam layer, on the ear side of the driver, is a thin wire mesh with square holes or is something made out of plastic (like the outer case)?

 Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

I wonder what this can be.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	















 Can it be a new toy?
 .
 .
 .
 .
 .
 .
 I sure think it is...













 Yes, it is a 4070! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 I seriously did not expect them to arrive this fast!
 12 days from ordering time, for are BTO (Built To Order) 'phone, is just stunning.

 First impressions:
 They looks very well built, at the same level as the SR-007. A real quality feeling.
 Only listened to them for about 20 minutes, but so far I like what I hear.

 More to come...


----------



## Duggeh

Looks like they must rattle around in that box a fair bit, no cut foam like on the O2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the quick reply. The protective mesh should be made out of wire? I'm 99% sure there was a plastic grille there, so it doesn't look like just the color has changed. Also, there is more space beneath the foam layer than I remember there was, as if something was there and now is missing. I don't have a digital camera right now to take a picture and show it to you, but I'm sure I've seen telling pictures of the 303/404 here on head-fi, I just can't manage to find them. 
 Could anybody with a 303/404 phone please check if the piece located right under the foam layer, on the ear side of the driver, is a thin wire mesh with square holes or is something made out of plastic (like the outer case)?

 Thanks._

 

What's directly underneath the foam should be the the protective grill of the drivers. The drivers are glued to the same aluminum plate the earpads stick too so there shouldn't be much space between. Please upload a picture if you can. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder what this can be.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	















 Can it be a new toy?
 .
 .
 .
 .
 .
 .
 I sure think it is...













 Yes, it is a 4070! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/9546/21085989un5.jpg
 I seriously did not expect them to arrive this fast!
 12 days from ordering time, for are BTO (Built To Order) 'phone, is just stunning.

 First impressions:
 They looks very well built, at the same level as the SR-007. A real quality feeling.
 Only listened to them for about 20 minutes, but so far I like what I hear.

 More to come... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very cool and congrats!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would be getting one of these very soon if it weren't for another purchase but more on that later...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it is a 4070! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrat's !!! Looking forward to your thoughts and impressions.(and comparisons)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like they must rattle around in that box a fair bit, no cut foam like on the O2._

 

The 'phones came in a plastic bad, to keep it in place during transportation.
 I can always put it inside the bag again, when I am on the move. 





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very cool and congrats!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would be getting one of these very soon if it weren't for another purchase but more on that later... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrat's !!! Looking forward to your thoughts and impressions.(and comparisons)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks guys! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Impressions will come later on, when I get accustomed to their sound (signature).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was curious about the S/N. Upon checking with Carl's post(Click me), his S/N is 1040. (SY1-xxxx) Since all cans are manufactory in Japan, it is possible that all cans use the same set of S/N. (another scary fact... only around 1.1k 4070 is around?)

 My 404 is also 11xx, the 001 is 15xx. If the S/N is indeed the number of cans manufactory/sold, then my friend.... there isn't many STAX around. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pojen_h@hotmail.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only problem with 4070 is I don't have an amp to drive it. (Justin, I want my KGSS...)

 My S/N is 1061._

 

My newly acquired, and probably fresh built, 4070 have serial number SY1-107x.
 Which mean that they have only built 30-40 4070's since mid September 2006. And if they started counting at 1000, there are only 70-80 4070's in total out there.
 A rare pair of headphones I must say!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My newly acquired, and probably fresh built, 4070 have serial number SY1-107x.
 Which mean that they have only built 30-40 4070's since mid September 2006. And if they started counting at 1000, there are only 70-80 4070's in total out there.
 A rare pair of headphones I must say! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

These serial numbers are only for the commercial market in Japan so there are different ones for other markets but it's still a very rare headphone and makes the He90 almost common. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When Stax used to make OEM work for other companies they had their own serial numbers so I guess the same applies here. The 4070 was designed Japanese TV market so they must have bought a few...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These serial numbers are only for the commercial market in Japan so there are different ones for other markets but it's still a very rare headphone and makes the He90 almost common. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When Stax used to make OEM work for other companies they had their own serial numbers so I guess the same applies here. The 4070 was designed Japanese TV market so they must have bought a few..._

 

Well, that makes sense.
 Then there sure are more 4070's out there than our S/N show. But still a rare pair of headphones...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, that makes sense.
 Then there sure are more 4070's out there than our S/N show. But still a rare pair of headphones..._

 

Very rare. There are about 340 He90's out there so the 4070 is pretty rare.


----------



## shey getz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can get replacement SR-1/3/5 pads form Audiocubes2.com but I'm pretty sure that the SR-007 pads would work as well._

 

The Omega's are listed at 75$ - yikes - the SR-5's are also listed as leather at only 19$. I suppose the latter are leatherette only and send a mail to audiocubes to find out. The Beyer replacements are going for 15€ here in D, whether or not these are real leather as someone suggested I've again mailed to find out.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you use velour pads the sound can escape through the material easily and thus increases the airpocket the driver has to push against, transforming the sound._

 

I agree it changes the sound. Also that the sound "finds a way out" more easily thru the miniscule filaments of the velours. But I'd say it _de_creases the pressure the driver has to go against for exactly that reason. Thus the bass looses its punch or so ws my impression during my testrun with the Beyer pads.

 Hendrik


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shey getz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Omega's are listed at 75$ - yikes - the SR-5's are also listed as leather at only 19$. I suppose the latter are leatherette only and send a mail to audiocubes to find out. The Beyer replacements are going for 15€ here in D, whether or not these are real leather as someone suggested I've again mailed to find out._

 

I didn't say it was cheap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The replacement SR-5 pads from Audiocubes are vinyl and they are identical to the original pads. I've never cared much for these Stax pads so the Beyer units could be a good substitute. Only if Beyer still had some ET1000 pads I'd be happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shey getz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree it changes the sound. Also that the sound "finds a way out" more easily thru the miniscule filaments of the velours. But I'd say it decreases the pressure the driver has to go against for exactly that reason. Thus the bass looses its punch or so ws my impression during my testrun with the Beyer pads.

 Hendrik_

 

The pressure is decreased by increasing the air pocket so it kills the bass. It might be a positive change because the SR-5 bass is slightly overblown.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would be getting one of these very soon if it weren't for another purchase but more on that later... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Oh C'mon !!... spill the beans Spritzer !


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh C'mon !!... spill the beans Spritzer !_

 

Well, I guess its one of these:
 1. He bought a new source (Esoteric anyone?).
 2. He finally got hold of an SR-Omega.
 3. There can't be a #3...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh C'mon !!... spill the beans Spritzer !_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I guess its one of these:
 1. He bought a new source (Esoteric anyone?).
 2. He finally got hold of an SR-Omega.
 3. There can't be a #3... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My lips (fingers?) are sealed until I get _IT_ in my hands...


----------



## Duggeh

Ill shortlist also:

 That he has nabbed an O2Mk2 prior to general release as an addition to that speculation.

 That he has bitten on a TakeT H2. To find out the horrible truth that his electrostatic enthusiasm is ultimately misplaced 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That it might also be an HE60 to keep his HE90 company on its long and lonely nights in the shiny wooden box of Sennheiser.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I seriously did not expect them to arrive this fast!
 12 days from ordering time, for are BTO (Built To Order) 'phone, is just stunning.

 First impressions:
 They looks very well built, at the same level as the SR-007. A real quality feeling.
 Only listened to them for about 20 minutes, but so far I like what I hear.

 More to come... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Enjoy your new toy, Kai.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like they must rattle around in that box a fair bit, no cut foam like on the O2._

 

Actually, no. The bubble wrap thing when fully rolled up takes up almost the entire case, so unless you shake the thing violently they stay pretty comfy in there.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I guess its one of these:
 1. He bought a new source (Esoteric anyone?).
 2. He finally got hold of an SR-Omega.
 3. There can't be a #3... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Try 2.

 Ooops, sorry Birgir, but you know I wanted them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* 
_That it might also be an HE60 to keep his HE90 company on its long and lonely nights in the shiny wooden box of Sennheiser._

 

He can't keep denying he wants one forever.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Enjoy your new toy, Kai._

 

Thanks!
 I spent 3-4 hours with them yesterday, and I starting to enjoy them...
  Quote:


 Try 2.
 Ooops, sorry Birgir, but you know I wanted them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Way to go Birgir!


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Impressions will come later on, when I get accustomed to their sound (signature)._

 

Congratulations Krmathis! I'm looking for war to hearing your impressions...cannot wait to share notes! Now where is that 4070 smiley when you need it?!?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now where is that 4070 smiley when you need it?!?_

 

The smiley was too big and couldn't fit on the screen.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ill shortlist also:

 That he has nabbed an O2Mk2 prior to general release as an addition to that speculation.

 That he has bitten on a TakeT H2. To find out the horrible truth that his electrostatic enthusiasm is ultimately misplaced 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That it might also be an HE60 to keep his HE90 company on its long and lonely nights in the shiny wooden box of Sennheiser.




_

 

Ohh I'm really trying to get the Mk2's as soon as possible, even before the release. Not sure if it will happen but I'll buy one of the first sets. Can't wait. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be sticking with the electrostats so no TakeT for me but the HE60 is on the books. I'm a cheap person so I'm looking for a good deal on a near mint set. There were quite a few sold up here back in the day so I'm looking to score a few of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try 2.

 Ooops, sorry Birgir, but you know I wanted them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey!!! Don't spill the beans!! Ok, it's a SR-Omega, the same one evil-zen bought more then a week ago but the seller listed them again. John was asking some questions and the sellers English isn't the best around and he must have misunderstood something. I'm not having any problems with him yet and he even suggested to use Fedex so I could get them quickly. This is why I being cautious even though I've waited 4 years for them. Now I've only got to find a few more as backups... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Way to go Birgir! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. Btw. has the zero feedback O1 seller replayed to you yet with fresh pictures? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The smiley was too big and couldn't fit on the screen._

 

It's similar to the situation with the Sigma smiley. It was so big it self imploded...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. has the zero feedback O1 seller replayed to you yet with fresh pictures?_

 

Well, I was too busy with the 4070 yesterday to even remember the O1 auction.
 I'll try to contact him when I get home from work...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I was too busy with the 4070 yesterday to even remember the O1 auction.
 I'll try to contact him when I get home from work..._

 

I'm 90% sure it's a scam but who knows...


----------



## Duggeh

The seller from the information lives not heinously far away from me. I've asked him if he would allow me to pay in cash and pick it up personally if I am the winning bidder.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_What's directly underneath the foam should be the the protective grill of the drivers. The drivers are glued to the same aluminum plate the earpads stick too so there shouldn't be much space between. Please upload a picture if you can._

 

I just got a reply from Stax Germany saying that 1 year ago the old protective mesh, made of black lacquered brass wire, has been replaced by a mesh made of high-grade (as they called it) steel. They say the new mesh is stronger and cannot be pushed in and also does not oxidize because of sweat as the old mesh sometimes did. 

 So everything is ok. Well, I wonder what is the effect on the sound, I hope it's nothing very important - the steel should be sturdier and less resonant, I guess. What do you think? I cannot tell because the new drivers are still being burned in and it's been two months since I've heard the phones with the old mesh anyway. 

 I managed to take a picture in cooperation with my wife, it was quite difficult because the foam is also reflective in full light, so it's not that great. It's ok, though, you can see the silvery steel mesh with rectangular holes under the foam. Click on the picture:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a reply from Stax Germany saying that 1 year ago the old protective mesh, made of black lacquered brass wire, has been replaced by a mesh made of high-grade (as they called it) steel. They say the new mesh is stronger and cannot be pushed in and also does not oxidize because of sweat as the old mesh sometimes did. 

 So everything is ok. Well, I wonder what is the effect on the sound, I hope it's nothing very important - the steel should be sturdier and less resonant, I guess. What do you think? I cannot tell because the new drivers are still being burned in and it's been two months since I've heard the phones with the old mesh anyway. 

 I managed to take a picture in cooperation with my wife, it was quite difficult because the foam is also reflective in full light, so it's not that great. It's ok, though, you can see the silvery steel mesh with rectangular holes under the foam. Click on the picture:


_

 

Good to have that sorted. They have used the same black mesh since 1979 and it doesn't color the sound that much, it's the plastic housing that gives them their sound.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Well, I hope the new mesh doesn't either. I remember some people advocating what I consider a rather risky mod of the K1000 - removing the inner half of the cage or a part of it, I'm not sure. According to them, the sonic benefits would be quite noticeable. I don't know, anyone willing to try this mod (removing the mesh) on their 303/404's?


----------



## spritzer

Recasing the drivers would be a much better move then swapping out the protective grill. My just building a simple wood housing instead of the plastic back will transform the sound. Do you own a CNC machine?


----------



## Downrange

Wow, everyone's getting new toys this summer!! Congrats to Spritzer and Kai. 
 And, wonder of wonders, Justin sent me FedEx tracking numbers for my KGSS today!! Christmas in July!


----------



## krmathis

Downrange. We "all" seems to be on a roll these days.
 Me and Birgir bought two nice pair of headphones, and you finally seem to get your KGSS. This is fun!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, everyone's getting new toys this summer!! Congrats to Spritzer and Kai. 
 And, wonder of wonders, Justin sent me FedEx tracking numbers for my KGSS today!! Christmas in July! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats on the KGSS!! July is a good month for headphones, bought my SR-007 and He90 in July as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now if I could get Justin to answer my emails whether he wants to sell me some Aristaeus boards or not I'd be even better...


----------



## Downrange

Thanks, guys, I really am psyched about its arrival. Keep us posted on your new toys!


----------



## ferrstein

Hello! It seems I'm never on topic... but I have a question for those with SRD7 experience.

 I want to listen more to my SRD7/Lambda and my SRD7Pro/Lambda Pro setups, but the Moscode 300WPC Mosfet amp I have just can't be a good match for these can it? So, I'm wondering... should I go the convenient route and pick up a solid state integrated with phono like a Creek or something and use that, or am I better off with a tube integrated? Something like an old Eico or something? 

 Oh, and if I get a tube amp, is it odd to have output transformers feeding an SRD7? Seems strange to me, which is why I'm thinking solid state makes more sense.

 Thanks in advance for any suggestions!


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello! It seems I'm never on topic... but I have a question for those with SRD7 experience.

 I want to listen more to my SRD7/Lambda and my SRD7Pro/Lambda Pro setups, but the Moscode 300WPC Mosfet amp I have just can't be a good match for these can it? So, I'm wondering... should I go the convenient route and pick up a solid state integrated with phono like a Creek or something and use that, or am I better off with a tube integrated? Something like an old Eico or something? 

 Oh, and if I get a tube amp, is it odd to have output transformers feeding an SRD7? Seems strange to me, which is why I'm thinking solid state makes more sense.

 Thanks in advance for any suggestions!_

 

Have you tried your Moscode yet by chance ?? Well in my experience (and experiments) Stax phones have some SERIOUS synergy with Pass labs amps.(I know i've said this before) I have had the best results using hybrid preamplification (gotta have some tubes somewhere 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) I would suggest doing a search of the first STAX thread as there is quite a bit of talk in regard to transformer/amp setups.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Recasing the drivers would be a much better move then swapping out the protective grill. My just building a simple wood housing instead of the plastic back will transform the sound. Do you own a CNC machine? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, I don't even know what's that...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway, I'm not thinking about modding either my 303 or my K1000 for now, especially since I've had some repeated problems with the former and I wouldn't risk losing the warranty. The next move I will make only next year and that is building a Firstwatt F2 clone for my K1000, probably followed by making or buying a transformer box to make the F2 drive my 303.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the KGSS!! July is a good month for headphones, bought my SR-007 and He90 in July as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, July sure is a great month headphones.

 Its exactly 1 year (ok, minus 2 days) since I bought my first Stax system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



My new Stax Omega II System (SR-007 & SRM-007t)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello! It seems I'm never on topic... but I have a question for those with SRD7 experience.

 I want to listen more to my SRD7/Lambda and my SRD7Pro/Lambda Pro setups, but the Moscode 300WPC Mosfet amp I have just can't be a good match for these can it? So, I'm wondering... should I go the convenient route and pick up a solid state integrated with phono like a Creek or something and use that, or am I better off with a tube integrated? Something like an old Eico or something? 

 Oh, and if I get a tube amp, is it odd to have output transformers feeding an SRD7? Seems strange to me, which is why I'm thinking solid state makes more sense.

 Thanks in advance for any suggestions!_

 

I would choose a low watt Class A sand amp or a nice SET or OTL tube amp. I would go for solid state if you don't want the fuss of tubes but a good Class A amp will be as hot as a tube amp. You could buy a used Sugden A21 and mod it a bit or use an old Pass amp. 

 There is nothing wrong with the extra transformers in the signal path. The transistor crowd has been bashing transformers for decades but they aren't that bad. Sure you do loose some information but they aren't sterile and boring like most "designed by the numbers" solid state is. 

 You can also build the Firstwatt DIY amps cheaply. Low wattage Class A on the cheap and there is a good thread on building them here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I don't even know what's that...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway, I'm not thinking about modding either my 303 or my K1000 for now, especially since I've had some repeated problems with the former and I wouldn't risk losing the warranty. The next move I will make only next year and that is building a Firstwatt F2 clone for my K1000, probably followed by making or buying a transformer box to make the F2 drive my 303._

 

The F2 is a nice amp and is, compared to most of my projects, very cheap to build. I've been thinking about building one with internal transformers since it appears my SRD-7's are multiplying... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It has no problem with common ground so the Koss transformer boxes work and it can drive dynamics (should anybody want to do that). Hmmm now I really want to throw one together. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, July sure is a great month headphones.

 Its exactly 1 year (ok, minus 2 days) since I bought my first Stax system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



My new Stax Omega II System (SR-007 & SRM-007t)_

 

It's been 4 years since I got mine (almost to the day) so now you know how you'll be in 3 years....


----------



## Djarum

Hi,

 Sorry to interrupt your reveling in the glory of high end stax, but I have a newbie question which I have been unable to find an answer for by searching. I have an SRD-4 and SR-80 set, and I've decided that my next upgrade should be up the STAX line. Which electrostat earspeakers will work out of the SRD-4 unit? In particular, I was hoping that a 303 or 404 would work with the SRD-4. 

 Thanks in advance.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Djarum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 Sorry to interrupt your reveling in the glory of high end stax, but I have a newbie question which I have been unable to find an answer for by searching. I have an SRD-4 and SR-80 set, and I've decided that my next upgrade should be up the STAX line. Which electrostat earspeakers will work out of the SRD-4 unit? In particular, I was hoping that a 303 or 404 would work with the SRD-4. 

 Thanks in advance._

 

Unfortunatley none will work out of the SRD-4.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Djarum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 Sorry to interrupt your reveling in the glory of high end stax, but I have a newbie question which I have been unable to find an answer for by searching. I have an SRD-4 and SR-80 set, and I've decided that my next upgrade should be up the STAX line. Which electrostat earspeakers will work out of the SRD-4 unit? In particular, I was hoping that a 303 or 404 would work with the SRD-4. 

 Thanks in advance._

 

The SRD-4 is an electret transformer box - since it lacks a bias supply, it will only work with SR-30 (which is SR-60 in some markets), SR-40, and SR-80.

 You could build a bias supply into it, which would essentially transform it into an SRD-6, but if you're not an old hand at building mains powered electronics, you might want to consider buying another transformer box or an amp.


----------



## Djarum

Crud 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Well, thanks very much for the replies!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been 4 years since I got mine (almost to the day) so now you know how you'll be in 3 years.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Damn! I better warn my wallet about what is to be expected... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Djarum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an SRD-4 and SR-80 set, and I've decided that my next upgrade should be up the STAX line. Which electrostat earspeakers will work out of the SRD-4 unit? In particular, I was hoping that a 303 or 404 would work with the SRD-4._

 

Unfortunately none of the current Stax 'phones will work out of the SRD-4. The SRD-4 and SR-80 are electret, while the later Stax 'phones are electrostatic and need bias supply. Which the SRD-4 can't provide.

 So you need to buy a new energizer (SRD-6 or SRD-7), or even better a dedicated amplifier.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I've seen some references to SRM-T1/T1S mods here and there, but I haven't found the detailed parts yet. What kinds of mods (tubes/wiring/parts/etc.) should be done to one of those to get the most out of it? Anyone have any recommendations?


----------



## spritzer

Remove the horrible RCA jacks and replace with some minimal mass connectors and replace the input wiring with some thin and soft naturally insulated (cotton, silk) solid core copper or silver. This will give you a big increase in SQ and is very easy to do. Easier on the T1 then the T1S but both are relatively easy. T1 will always sound better though because there is nothing original but the volume pot left in the signal path. 

 The next step would be to replace every last bit of wire inside the amp with some nice solid core wire. You'll have to use teflon here unfortunately due to the high voltages abound. You can also replace the IEC connector with better unit and bypass the voltage selector switch. 

 Next step would be to start replacing parts like resistors and caps but here space becomes a problem. There is virtually no space inside the amp for better (and bigger) parts but you could upgrade the PSU a bit by bypassing the large caps. A 1uF/500v cap should work here. 

 Extreme modding would be to remove the transformer and put it in an external box and thus have the space for bigger caps and even DC filament supplies. I'm not even crazy enough to do that.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn! I better warn my wallet about what is to be expected... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would start by canceling the credit cards...


----------



## Downrange

KGSS is in the building!

 Oh, my! Justin is a craftsman!

 Much bigger than I expected - where WILL I put it?? Makes two of the SRM007tII easily.

 As far as testing, wow, just preliminary, but it's very, very good. It takes time to move the O2s and the balanced inputs from the ECD-1 between the two amps, so true A/B is not possible but here's the initial quick and dirty:

 (very preliminary)

 KGSS: + dynamics, soundstage, effortlessness, 
 - slightly (very slightly) more etched sounding 

 SRM007: + tube euphonics, vocals just a tad more real
 - not quite as dynamic, soundstage wee smaller

 Gonna be close! KGSS needs to burn in a bit too.

 More later...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KGSS is in the building!

 Oh, my! Justin is a craftsman!

 Much bigger than I expected - where WILL I put it?? Makes two of the SRM007tII easily.

 As far as testing, wow, just preliminary, but it's very, very good. It takes time to move the O2s and the balanced inputs from the ECD-1 between the two amps, so true A/B is not possible but here's the initial quick and dirty:

 (very preliminary)

 KGSS: + dynamics, soundstage, effortlessness, 
 - slightly (very slightly) more etched sounding 

 SRM007: + tube euphonics, vocals just a tad more real
 - not quite as dynamic, soundstage wee smaller

 Gonna be close! KGSS needs to burn in a bit too.

 More later... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Is it a stock unit or did you get any options?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it a stock unit or did you get any options?_

 

Bone stock.

 I'm using copper balanced interconnects (Blue Jeans) vs. the pricier silver (Silver Resolution) on the 007t, too. I need to get Kai to loan me his Poeimas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Much too early to draw any conclusions, but these two are in a dogfight, early. I plan a full review and comparison, eventually. The prices of the two amps are so close to each other that I just had to try both. It's going to be hard to sell either one, though! Plan backfired! LOL


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remove the horrible RCA jacks and replace with some minimal mass connectors and replace the input wiring with some thin and soft naturally insulated (cotton, silk) solid core copper or silver. This will give you a big increase in SQ and is very easy to do. Easier on the T1 then the T1S but both are relatively easy. T1 will always sound better though because there is nothing original but the volume pot left in the signal path. 

 The next step would be to replace every last bit of wire inside the amp with some nice solid core wire. You'll have to use teflon here unfortunately due to the high voltages abound. You can also replace the IEC connector with better unit and bypass the voltage selector switch. 

 Next step would be to start replacing parts like resistors and caps but here space becomes a problem. There is virtually no space inside the amp for better (and bigger) parts but you could upgrade the PSU a bit by bypassing the large caps. A 1uF/500v cap should work here. 

 Extreme modding would be to remove the transformer and put it in an external box and thus have the space for bigger caps and even DC filament supplies. I'm not even crazy enough to do that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the tips Birgir! Very nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We'll see what happens. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cheers!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KGSS is in the building!_

 

Excellent! We would like pictures and some impressions.
 But take your time, as I do with the 4070, until you have spent some time with it.

 Justin certainly build some quality equipment!
 I would not mind one of his amplifiers, if he ever release the "perfect" one. The Blue Hawaii Special Edition _might_ be it, depending on the looks and size of the chassis' he put them in.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent! We would like pictures and some impressions.
 But take your time, as I do with the 4070, until you have spent some time with it.

 Justin certainly build some quality equipment!
 I would not mind one of his amplifiers, if he ever release the "perfect" one. The Blue Hawaii Special Edition might be it, depending on the looks and size of the chassis' he put them in._

 

I will take my time, Kai. I'm really impressed with this amp so far. Haven't taken the top off yet, but if it looks as good as the outside, it's going to be superb.

 I wouldn't hesitate to order another amp from Justin.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to get Kai to loan me his Poeimas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Probably not going to happen.
 Cause I have sold my Silver Resolution and have no spare balanced interconnect. There are no way I am going back to single ended.

 But if I ever get a spare pair I will consider it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bone stock.

 I'm using copper balanced interconnects (Blue Jeans) vs. the pricier silver (Silver Resolution) on the 007t, too. I need to get Kai to loan me his Poeimas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Much too early to draw any conclusions, but these two are in a dogfight, early. I plan a full review and comparison, eventually. The prices of the two amps are so close to each other that I just had to try both. It's going to be hard to sell either one, though! Plan backfired! LOL_

 

You could of course combine those two things in the Blue Hawaii with even more power, dynamics, resolution and clarity. It's a shame it's this expensive now. 

 Ps. I think I see some Black Gates in your future.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tips Birgir! Very nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We'll see what happens. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cheers!_

 

I forgot to add that they are pretty easy to mod due to the nice chassis design by Stax. There aren't many things out there that allow you to remove the bottom panel without tearing it apart.


----------



## Crackle

about burning in.

 My new new stax 2050II is two days old and sounds incredible. Vocals are just so real. I am letting them play all night at my normal listening volume to whatever CD I was listening to last.

 Any ideas about how long I should keep this up before they are fully broken in?

 Reason i ask is that I have an itch to upgrade my source - or even considering vinyl (!) but want the cans sorted before i consider other upgrades.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crackle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about burning in.

 My new new stax 2050II is two days old and sounds incredible. Vocals are just so real. I am letting them play all night at my normal listening volume to whatever CD I was listening to last.

 Any ideas about how long I should keep this up before they are fully broken in?

 Reason i ask is that I have an itch to upgrade my source - or even considering vinyl (!) but want the cans sorted before i consider other upgrades._

 

A 100 hours should be enough, at least there aren't any major changes after that point.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_T1 will always sound better though because there is nothing original but the volume pot left in the signal path._

 

Replacing the volume pot is an option, too.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crackle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about burning in.

 My new new stax 2050II is two days old and sounds incredible. Vocals are just so real. I am letting them play all night at my normal listening volume to whatever CD I was listening to last.

 Any ideas about how long I should keep this up before they are fully broken in?

 Reason i ask is that I have an itch to upgrade my source - or even considering vinyl (!) but want the cans sorted before i consider other upgrades._

 

Congratulations on the 2050IIs! As was already posted, around 100 hours is plenty. They tend to sound better when they've been on awhile, for sure.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Probably not going to happen.
 Cause I have sold my Silver Resolution and have no spare balanced interconnect. There are no way I am going back to single ended.

 But if I ever get a spare pair I will consider it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I was just kidding, Kai! If I had a set of Poeimas, I doubt I'd let them out of my sight. I wish I'd known your Silvers were for sale. I'm thinking about ordering another set for the KGSS, but my thinking was copper for a bit less brightness, assuming it didn't need the silver. Now I'm wondering how it would sound with them. (BTW, I can't just plug them in because Stax inverts polarity on their plug, so I had to get them custom wired to re-invert for the 7t).

 I went away for a few hours and left the KGSS running, and it seems to have smoothed a bit already.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just kidding, Kai! If I had a set of Poeimas, I doubt I'd let them out of my sight._

 

Just like me.
 I don't see myself without the Poiema!!! At least not until I an possible update in the distant future..
  Quote:


 I wish I'd known your Silvers were for sale. 
 

How could you miss it?
 It was available for 1 month in the F/S forum before someone finally bought it..
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239783


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just like me.
 I don't see myself without the Poiema!!! At least not until I an possible update in the distant future..
 How could you miss it?
 It was available for 1 month in the F/S forum before someone finally bought it..
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239783_

 

I guess I don't check that forum enough! Anyway, the more I listen, the more I think copper is a better choice with the KGSS. It can be pretty "hot" with a lot of material.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Djarum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 Sorry to interrupt your reveling in the glory of high end stax..._

 

Don't worry about it. Some of us, perhaps the majority, just read this thread for the earwig pornography.

 Andre Jute
 A little inaccuracy sometimes saves tons of explanation. --H.H.Munro ("Saki")(1870-1916)

 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Replacing the volume pot is an option, too._

 

It sure is but I like the built in balance control. The T1 will never be a reference amp so the Blue Velvet is good enough unless I can find a two gang friction RK50... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I don't check that forum enough! Anyway, the more I listen, the more I think copper is a better choice with the KGSS. It can be pretty "hot" with a lot of material._

 

Good silver (99% of which isn't) is smoother then copper can ever be be with much better extension and none of the diffused and blurred images. It isn't cheap though so copper is a good, cheap alternative. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went away for a few hours and left the KGSS running, and it seems to have smoothed a bit already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I found it too be a lot smoother and more pleasant after two days or so but that goes for almost all solid state equipment. The only way the 313 is even bearable is if it is never turned off


----------



## edstrelow

I just saw this on Ebay Germany. It appears to be a diffuse field equalizer set up for the SR5 Gold.

http://cgi.ebay.de/STAX-ED-5-Monitor...QQcmdZViewItem

 I have seen the ones set up for the Lambdas ( in fact I have even bid on some) but not for any other Stax model. Anyone have any thoughts about or experience with these?


----------



## Tachikoma

They're kinda interesting, but don't go overboard bidding for one. Its effect on music (from memory, I don't have the unit with me atm) is that it gives the headphones a bit more air, but with a bit of a midrange suckout and some added sibilance. Similar to the things people have said about the ED-1, I guess.


----------



## Carl

You don't see ED-5s around much, but their existance has never been a secret or anything. I guess the greater popularity of the Lambda family explains why the ED-1 is much more common.

 I'm not sure how well the ED-5 would go with the SR-Xs, probably not too well, and I'm pretty sure the Alphas/Gammas came diffuse field equalized as part of their design. Still, if you have a particular affinity for the SR-3N/5/5N then it might be something worthy of picking up, you can always sell it if you don't like it.

 I'm no fan of DFE myself.


----------



## edstrelow

Since I don't have an SR-5 this one's not for me. But it took my by surprise since I don't see it listed in the Official Stax History section.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since I don't have an SR-5 this one's not for me. But it took my by surprise since I don't see it listed in the Official Stax History section._

 

It was possibly another Germany-only item. The unofficial Stax site has them, though.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It was possibly another Germany-only item. The unofficial Stax site has them, though._

 

Cor, I wish I could navigate round that website!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cor, I wish I could navigate round that website! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This link might help you (if it works for you that is):
Google Translate -> earsp.web.fc2.com


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cor, I wish I could navigate round that website! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

イヤースピーカー = Earspeakers
 ドライバーユニット = Driver units
 システム製品 = Complete systems
 スピーカー = Speakers
 アンプ = Amps
 アーム = Tonearms
 カートリッジ = Cartridges
 イコライザ、POD = Equalizers, "PODs"*
 デジタル機器 = Digital gear
 アクセサリー類 = Accessories
 使いこなしのコツ = Tips on buying used Stax gear
 試聴 = (Not sure about this one. I think it says 'listening experiences', but the link is dead, so I can't check)
 エアボウ製品 = Airbow products
 他社のヘッドフォン = Headphones by other companies
 資料 = Data

 * 'PODs' were the phantom power supplies Stax made for powering their condenser phono cartridges


----------



## Johnny Blue

Thanks Kai and Carl. The link Kai posted didn't work for me, but going through Google/Languages/Translate web page did, so I've got a clue now how to get round that website!

 Thank you!

 PS But for some reason, I can't get any pictures, at least off the SR-5 section...

 PPS Must be the Google translate that stops the pictures appearing, going back to the Japanese version, they're all there...


----------



## Carl

Having just spent the evening redrawing and redrawing again the SRA-7S schematic so it's easier to follow than Stax's horrible one, I can officially say I need a beer. Well, at least I've worked out all the capacitor values now, too bad I still have to work out what value all the resistors are....


----------



## Patu

Can I adjust voltage on the new Stax adapters? If I can then how to do it. 

 I was just wondering that I could get a Stax setup very cheap from PJ but the voltage is 100V. For example, Signature System goes for 783EUR from PJ and in Finland it's over 2100EUR. 

 If this isn't possible then can you recommend me some high end step down transformer.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I adjust voltage on the new Stax adapters? If I can then how to do it. 

 I was just wondering that I could get a Stax setup very cheap from PJ but the voltage is 100V. For example, Signature System goes for 783EUR from PJ and in Finland it's over 2100EUR. 

 If this isn't possible then can you recommend me some high end step down transformer._

 

Stax don't include voltage switches anymore. It's still possible to convert them manually, but it's hardly a beginner's DIY proect.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't see ED-5s around much, but their existance has never been a secret or anything. I guess the greater popularity of the Lambda family explains why the ED-1 is much more common.

 I'm not sure how well the ED-5 would go with the SR-Xs, probably not too well, and I'm pretty sure the Alphas/Gammas came diffuse field equalized as part of their design. Still, if you have a particular affinity for the SR-3N/5/5N then it might be something worthy of picking up, you can always sell it if you don't like it.

 I'm no fan of DFE myself._

 

The Gamma's might be DFE'd but then it is a lot more subtle then for instance the HE90. The SR-5 was a big seller in Germany so most of this stuff was made for them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I adjust voltage on the new Stax adapters? If I can then how to do it. 

 I was just wondering that I could get a Stax setup very cheap from PJ but the voltage is 100V. For example, Signature System goes for 783EUR from PJ and in Finland it's over 2100EUR. 

 If this isn't possible then can you recommend me some high end step down transformer._

 

You can change the voltage now but like Carl said it isn't easy. There are wires soldered to an internal PCB that need to be connected differently. 

 Since you are pretty close to Sweden I'd recommend Lundahl if you want a really good transformer but you would have to add connectors and a housing. Otherwise just use an over sized converter you can buy anywhere. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having just spent the evening redrawing and redrawing again the SRA-7S schematic so it's easier to follow than Stax's horrible one, I can officially say I need a beer. Well, at least I've worked out all the capacitor values now, too bad I still have to work out what value all the resistors are...._

 

The Stax one is pretty bad. Are there any revisions to the design in your unit? 

 Btw. go on, get your self a beer or two. You've earned it...


----------



## randerson3024

Has anyone tried the HE 60's with an SRM-727? They sound very bright at first, but I am becoming hooked on the speed and clarity. I wish this amp would drive my 4070's sufficiently. Whenever I switch to my HD-650's, I am really disappointed. I'm thinking of going electrostatic 100% of the time.

 Also, has anyone on the forum driven a pair of HE 90's with a Stax SRM-727 or SRM-007t? I would like to know if it's possible so I don't have to ship my Aristeaus to the boat...............


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, has anyone on the forum driven a pair of HE 90's with a Stax SRM-727 or SRM-007t? I would like to know if it's possible so I don't have to ship my Aristeaus to the boat..............._

 

I have only used the HE90 on a 007t for a short time but they were a good combo. I use my HE90 mainly with the SRM-T1 which is a 1987 model and less powerful then the 007t and I quite like it. The Blue Hawaii is too brutally honest for the HE90 and lays bare all their flaws while the T1 is more euphonic and synergistic lets them shine.

 BTW. I just bought a new source for my second system, a 1987 Sony DAS-R1, the then statement DAC. It will be a lot of fun to mod this thing. Now I'll just need to find the matching transport...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax one is pretty bad. Are there any revisions to the design in your unit? 

 Btw. go on, get your self a beer or two. You've earned it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not a lot. The design comes with switchable phono equalization (this was the 1960s), yet there is no switch on the amp so it seems like they dropped that and went for straight RIAA. The caps and resistors for all three modes remain in there, though.

 There are six 50uF cathode bypass caps in there, which would be easy if I allowed myself to use electrolytics, but is going to be a royal pain to do with films. I think 47uF Evox Rifa MMKs might be able to be squeezed in there, they're big but not BIG big. The fourteen .05uF coupling caps are going to get expensive.

 I need coffee now, not beer.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW. I just bought a new source for my second system, a 1987 Sony DAS-R1, the then statement DAC. It will be a lot of fun to mod this thing. Now I'll just need to find the matching transport..._

 

Nice! The DAS-R1 is actually my favourite 100% solid state DAC. Very moddable and great parts for a commericial product, too.

 Any plans to desolder the TDA1541A-S1s and put TDA1541A-S2s in there? I know you won't be able to resist that one, Birgir!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a lot. The design comes with switchable phono equalization (this was the 1960s), yet there is no switch on the amp so it seems like they dropped that and went for straight RIAA. The caps and resistors for all three modes remain in there, though.

 There are six 50uF cathode bypass caps in there, which would be easy if I allowed myself to use electrolytics, but is going to be a royal pain to do with films. I think 47uF Evox Rifa MMKs might be able to be squeezed in there, they're big but not BIG big. The fourteen .05uF coupling caps are going to get expensive._

 

An all film conversion can be tricky if the amp and psu was designed with electrolytics in mind. 

 Coupling caps are supposed to be expensive! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need coffee now, not beer._

 

There is nothing wrong with drinking beer at 8 in the morning. It all depends on when and if you went to sleep... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! The DAS-R1 is actually my favourite 100% solid state DAC. Very moddable and great parts for a commericial product, too.

 Any plans to desolder the TDA1541A-S1s and put TDA1541A-S2s in there? I know you won't be able to resist that one, Birgir! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I prefer it over the A model because it's simpler with a better dac and it is multibit. I don't doubt that it will be better then the G08 in some areas stock and it will be killer fully modded. The Black Gates alone are going to cost a fortune. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to mod this to bits and get a good transport and then I'm going to move up to the X1t. I think life is too short to just go out an buy an Apl NWO machine now and have no real journey. I know that a properly modded ML 30/31 combo will be killer and I can use many transports and DAC's. 

 The good news is that there might even be S2 dacs in there. Sony built quite a few machines that way. If it is only equipped with S1 units i might switch them since the cost about as much as one RCA jack.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have only used the HE90 on a 007t for a short time but they were a good combo. I use my HE90 mainly with the SRM-T1 which is a 1987 model and less powerful then the 007t and I quite like it. The Blue Hawaii is too brutally honest for the HE90 and lays bare all their flaws while the T1 is more euphonic and synergistic lets them shine.

 BTW. I just bought a new source for my second system, a 1987 Sony DAS-R1, the then statement DAC. It will be a lot of fun to mod this thing. Now I'll just need to find the matching transport..._

 


 Thanks for the tip. I am really enjoying the HE 60's, I just wish the SRM-727 had the power to really drive the 4070's. I have a gut feeling that they will be exceptional when driven properly.

 Have fun with the Sony. It should be fun.

 Bob


----------



## pabbi1

The Blue Hawaii drives the HE60 crazy good.


----------



## gordie

I know this will sound heretical, but my 4070s sound awesome driven from my Stax 313 amp. For reference, I also have K1000s driven by a Red Wine Sig 30, and Grado HP-2s driven by a variety of amps. The 4070s are my favorite, although it is very close with the K1000s, which were my hands down favorite headphones until I got the 4070s at the beginning of the year.

 I've also heard the 4070s through a 727 and 007t, sounded fine, but believe me, they completely rock through the modest 313 if fed a decent input signal (hint: not headphone out of a portable device).

 I'm using the digital output from my various sources into a Headroom Micro DAC - the Micro DAC has a very high output for driving an amp, so the 313 isn't working as hard as it would be driven by something with less output.

 One caveat - for everything except classical music, I EQ them slightly: 

 64 +3dB
 125 +1.5dB
 4k -1.5dB
 8k -1dB

 The dip at 4k - 8k really smoothes them out. There is absolutely no issue with my rig putting out tight and punchy bass set up like this.

 (Note I don't EQ any of my other headphones setups)

 It's possible that a more powerful amp will sound great without EQ, and I was going to buy some rocket fuel for them (i.e. KGSS/etc.), but truth be told, I'm completely satisfied with the current setup. And I was as surprised as anyone that the 313 could drive them, although like I said, the Micro DAC is a huge help (in fact, the Micro DAC into the Grado Headphone amp - the original black Joe Grado amp - is too powerful, I can hardly turn the amp up past 8 o'clock)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tip. I am really enjoying the HE 60's, I just wish the SRM-727 had the power to really drive the 4070's. I have a gut feeling that they will be exceptional when driven properly.

 Have fun with the Sony. It should be fun.

 Bob_


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is nothing wrong with drinking beer at 8 in the morning. It all depends on when and if you went to sleep... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

*Cheers!*




 8:23am, and I am taking on a cold beer...


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this will sound heretical, but my 4070s sound awesome driven from my Stax 313 amp._

 

...and I find the 007t to drive the 4070 well.
 As previously stated I have never heard any of the more sought after amplifiers Blue Hawaii, ES-1, etc.) and might be missing out on much. But I am all satisfied with the 007t.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gordie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using the digital output from my various sources into a Headroom Micro DAC - the Micro DAC has a very high output for driving an amp, so the 313 isn't working as hard as it would be driven by something with less output.

 ...And I was as surprised as anyone that the 313 could drive them, although like I said, the Micro DAC is a huge help (in fact, the Micro DAC into the Grado Headphone amp - the original black Joe Grado amp - is too powerful, I can hardly turn the amp up past 8 o'clock)_

 

This may be the key with many Stax amps, a high level input signal. In one of my set ups a separate power supply to the Musical Fidelity DAC did great things. I am not sure if it raised the signal level but it gave it much more dynamics.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An all film conversion can be tricky if the amp and psu was designed with electrolytics in mind._

 

Actually, this one seems vaguely doable. To my surprise there are no filtering or tank caps whatsoever - the amp is completely unregulated - so that leaves just three big DC blocking caps for the high tension supply, two big DC blocking caps in the rectification stage, six big cathode bypasses, and the rest is all 3µF or less. I'm considering just taking the pain and getting a new PCB made up (I have to change the tube types anyway, so that way would be no harder than fiddling around with socket adaptors when all is said and done), which will give me more size leeway, and just leaves the five PSU caps as motor runs to deal with.

  Quote:


 Coupling caps are supposed to be expensive! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 

Well, I did want to keep prices semi-sane.... Actually, the more I look at it, the more I seem to be able to do myself. I guess every cent saved by not having a modifier doing it is another few cents I can spend on coupling caps. 10 0.05µF Mundorf Silvers _are_ only about $250...

  Quote:


 There is nothing wrong with drinking beer at 8 in the morning. It all depends on when and if you went to sleep... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

When you've only had five hours sleep, caffeine is more important than alcohol. We'll see how I feel after I work out all the resistor values, though...

  Quote:


 I prefer it over the A model because it's simpler with a better dac and it is multibit. 
 

Agreed. I'd even take a DAS-R1 over the more expensive DAS-R10 and SCD-1 without hesitation, it's just more musical.

  Quote:


 The Black Gates alone are going to cost a fortune. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Yeah, the capacitor banks in Sony's DACs are pretty hillarious. Shop somewhere that gives bulk buy discounts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I'm going to mod this to bits and get a good transport and then I'm going to move up to the X1t. I think life is too short to just go out an buy an Apl NWO machine now and have no real journey. I know that a properly modded ML 30/31 combo will be killer and I can use many transports and DAC's. 
 

If you do trade up for an X1t, drop me a line. I can think of worse hand-me-downs than a hotrodded R1.

  Quote:


 The good news is that there might even be S2 dacs in there. Sony built quite a few machines that way. If it is only equipped with S1 units i might switch them since the cost about as much as one RCA jack. 
 

This is news to me. If it does, bonus.


----------



## Patu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since you are pretty close to Sweden I'd recommend Lundahl if you want a really good transformer but you would have to add connectors and a housing. Otherwise just use an over sized converter you can buy anywhere. _

 

No DIY skills here.

 Could you give me some example. I'm really a noob in these things. I didn't find a step down transformer which would work as 240V --> 100V. Or can I use those 240V --> 110V transformers?


----------



## Carl

Colourblindness + tiny resistors covered in dried electrolyte in a poorly lit chasis = AARRRGGGHHHH


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, this one seems vaguely doable. To my surprise there are no filtering or tank caps whatsoever - the amp is completely unregulated - so that leaves just three big DC blocking caps for the high tension supply, two big DC blocking caps in the rectification stage, six big cathode bypasses, and the rest is all 3µF or less. I'm considering just taking the pain and getting a new PCB made up (I have to change the tube types anyway, so that way would be no harder than fiddling around with socket adaptors when all is said and done), which will give me more size leeway, and just leaves the five PSU caps as motor runs to deal with._

 

No regulation does make it a lot easier. 

 If you are going to make PCB's I'll take one please. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I did want to keep prices semi-sane.... Actually, the more I look at it, the more I seem to be able to do myself. I guess every cent saved by not having a modifier doing it is another few cents I can spend on coupling caps. 10 0.05µF Mundorf Silvers are only about $250..._

 

250$ isn't a bad deal. Those silver Audio Note caps are really nice... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When you've only had five hours sleep, caffeine is more important than alcohol. We'll see how I feel after I work out all the resistor values, though..._

 

Five hours is very good for me. Waking up before 4am every morning will make you see sleep in a different light. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agreed. I'd even take a DAS-R1 over the more expensive DAS-R10 and SCD-1 without hesitation, it's just more musical._

 

Ditto and the price doesn't hurt either. I was considering a SCD-1 but there are just too many problems with them and Sony isn't very helpful. While digital has improved over the last 20 years it has also changed. Gone is the easy musical sound in favor of the loud and bright bleach. Now I've got some reading to do because I just got the service manual... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, the capacitor banks in Sony's DACs are pretty hillarious. Shop somewhere that gives bulk buy discounts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I will probably use Jensen 4-poles for the big caps because Black Gates will take up too much space. The smaller caps will all be Black Gates though. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you do trade up for an X1t, drop me a line. I can think of worse hand-me-downs than a hotrodded R1._

 

I sure will. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is news to me. If it does, bonus._

 

It would be very nice but I think I used up all of my luck on the SR-Omegas... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No DIY skills here.

 Could you give me some example. I'm really a noob in these things. I didn't find a step down transformer which would work as 240V --> 100V. Or can I use those 240V --> 110V transformers?_

 

It will depend on the actual voltage level at the wall but it should work. I've seen one retailer saying that you can use Japan spec Stax amps in the US so they should be fine connected to 110v. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Colourblindness + tiny resistors covered in dried electrolyte in a poorly lit chasis = AARRRGGGHHHH_

 

Drink more beer... it helps a lot!


----------



## krmathis

Seems like 'JaZZ' have two nice pair of woodified Lambda's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JaZZ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JaZZ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No regulation does make it a lot easier. 

 If you are going to make PCB's I'll take one please. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sure thing. And if you'd like to lend a hand, it'd be more than welcome. Something to fill in the time until Justin gets back to you, maybe.

 I actually find the design to be quite elegant, looking at the schematic. It's far simpler than the HEV90, which means that it doesn't need so many nasties to fix things. Way less parts, so less of a hit on the wallet, too. Once that 12AU7 is replaced the thing should sound pretty nice. I might even try replacing the two solid state diodes with a tube rectifier (a damping diode, maybe?) and have an 100% tube design, although I'd imagine some outside assistance would be required to pull that off.

  Quote:


 250$ isn't a bad deal. Those silver Audio Note caps are really nice... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

That's Parts conneXion's price. I haven't been shopping around, though. 

 Ten 0.05µF silver Audio Notes would set you back a princely $1360. $1910 if you wanted to use them in the phono stage too. Good think the US$ is weak right now, eh?


 Also on the capacitor front, I spent several hours this evening trying to find someone who makes polystyrene run capacitors and couldn't find a single one. Does no one make big polystys any more? I'll probably end up using some GE 97F-series polypropylene/oil run caps unless I can find some interesting paper/oils.

  Quote:


 Five hours is very good for me. Waking up before 4am every morning will make you see sleep in a different light. 
 

I would never survive that. Going to bed at 4am I can do, though...

  Quote:


 Ditto and the price doesn't hurt either. I was considering a SCD-1 but there are just too many problems with them and Sony isn't very helpful. While digital has improved over the last 20 years it has also changed. Gone is the easy musical sound in favor of the loud and bright bleach. Now I've got some reading to do because I just got the service manual... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Improved in a very narrow number of respects. The PCM->PDM conversion process still sucks, so even after 15 years delta-sigma DACs still don't sound good. Maybe if everything was on SACD they'd be a good idea, but that will never happen.

  Quote:


 I will probably use Jensen 4-poles for the big caps because Black Gates will take up too much space. The smaller caps will all be Black Gates though. 
 

Yeah, I was talking about the smaller ones, all of them could be replaced by Back Gate Ns without issue. The tanks as always will prove difficult.

 Planning on keeping the Wima polyprops or upgrading them?

  Quote:


 Drink more beer... it helps a lot! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Good advice.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems like 'JaZZ' have two nice pair of woodified Lambda's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are actually Sigmas (see the headbands). Very nice indeed. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure thing. And if you'd like to lend a hand, it'd be more than welcome. Something to fill in the time until Justin gets back to you, maybe.

 I actually find the design to be quite elegant, looking at the schematic. It's far simpler than the HEV90, which means that it doesn't need so many nasties to fix things. Way less parts, so less of a hit on the wallet, too. Once that 12AU7 is replaced the thing should sound pretty nice. I might even try replacing the two solid state diodes with a tube rectifier (a damping diode, maybe?) and have an 100% tube design, although I'd imagine some outside assistance would be required to pull that off._

 

I'd be happy to help. PCB drawing isn't my strong suit but I'm good at spotting problems. I'd keep the diodes for now but you can always go nuts later. A simple extra connection on the PCB for an extension is a nice way of doing it. 

 I like something simple now. If I have to many big projects going at the same time I never finish them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's Parts conneXion's price. I haven't been shopping around, though. 

 Ten 0.05µF silver Audio Notes would set you back a princely $1360. $1910 if you wanted to use them in the phono stage too. Good think the US$ is weak right now, eh?_

 

That is a bit too much for a small little fun amp. I reserve the AN's for my main listening rig. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also on the capacitor front, I spent several hours this evening trying to find someone who makes polystyrene run capacitors and couldn't find a single one. Does no one make big polystys any more? I'll probably end up using some GE 97F-series polypropylene/oil run caps unless I can find some interesting paper/oils._

 

It should be easy to find some NOS stuff. What size do you need?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would never survive that. Going to bed at 4am I can do, though..._

 

You get used to it. It helps that it's almost as bright as day during the summer nights. December is pretty bad though... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Improved in a very narrow number of respects. The PCM->PDM conversion process still sucks, so even after 15 years delta-sigma DACs still don't sound good. Maybe if everything was on SACD they'd be a good idea, but that will never happen._

 

They did learn to understand how to get the most out of digital at a lower price but there have been way too many wrong turns over the years. Everything was declared to be the next big thing and the reviewers chanted along with the manufacturers. It's funny how people "invented" the jitter problem in the 90's when this unit along with the CDP introduced the TWIN LINK that also carries a clock link to eliminate jitter. This was in 1987. 

 The evolution of CD is very much like the Stax evolution. Old normal bias units are very musical but have their limitations so they increased the bias and did other measures but lost the musicality along the way. Now with the new TOTL phones they are back at the roots with phones that aren't really trying to impress. 

 It's so silly when an old DAC is compared to an old computer that is outdated. There is more to a DAC then the chip... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I was talking about the smaller ones, all of them could be replaced by Back Gate Ns without issue. The tanks as always will prove difficult._

 

The tanks are a problem. I could parallel Blackgates but then I'll have to find a way to mount them properly and get a huge discount... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Planning on keeping the Wima polyprops or upgrading them?_

 

There is the Wima Black Box but that is about it unless I go to silver/oil caps. I haven't studied the schematic thoroughly so I'm not sure what the values are but I will replace them in the output stage with films.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be happy to help. PCB drawing isn't my strong suit but I'm good at spotting problems. I'd keep the diodes for now but you can always go nuts later. A simple extra connection on the PCB for an extension is a nice way of doing it._

 

Nobody likes PCB designing. I'll probably pay someone to do it for me once I work out what I want to go where. 

 For my own sanity I plan to set things in stone. If I use a tube diode I'm going to need to sort out heaters for it and suchforth, so I want to make that decision before the PCB is designed. No going nuts later allowed, in other words.

 I take it you're fine with EF86->5687->6CG7? Picking tubes with different op-points is too much effort for me. It'll still be the only tube-based electrostat amp that doesn't use 12AX7s/12AU7s/12AT7s/6DJ8s, which is pretty much a requirement for me to be happy.

  Quote:


 I like something simple now. If I have to many big projects going at the same time I never finish them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

The advantage of having a PCB designed to fit big heteroclite parts from the outset is it's simply a matter of some soldering.

  Quote:


 That is a bit too much for a small little fun amp. I reserve the AN's for my main listening rig. 
 

Why am I planning on using Mundorfs and tantalums for the coupling caps and resistors again? You're a bad influence, Birgir. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 It should be easy to find some NOS stuff. What size do you need? 
 

If you do have a line on polystyrene/oil run caps then that'd be awesome. To my ears at least polystyrene is (all else equal) better sounding than polypropylene. Of course, it's not end-of-the-world material or anything.

 I need 3x 40µF caps and 2x 20µF caps. The voltages are all listed as 350V but that doesn't sound like a lot of headroom over what they'll actually be seeing so preferably a bit higher.

  Quote:


 They did learn to understand how to get the most out of digital at a lower price but there have been way too many wrong turns over the years. Everything was declared to be the next big thing and the reviewers chanted along with the manufacturers. It's funny how people "invented" the jitter problem in the 90's when this unit along with the CDP introduced the TWIN LINK that also carries a clock link to eliminate jitter. This was in 1987. 
 

If solving jitter was important everything would come with wordclock outputs, which is obviously not the case.

 I suspect the fundimental problem with using pulse density conversion on pulse code modulated signals will remain unsolved no matter how much time passes. As much due to ideology as to technology.


----------



## Patu

I'm sorry if this question doesn't belong in this thread but this is the easiest way to reach all you Stax geeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any experience with Rudistor Egmont driving Omega II or 404? I would get it quite cheap because there's one for sale in Finland.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are actually Sigmas (see the headbands). Very nice indeed._

 

You are right, they are indeed Sigma's.
 They are still two nice looking pair of headphones though.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry if this question doesn't belong in this thread but this is the easiest way to reach all you Stax geeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any experience with Rudistor Egmont driving Omega II or 404? I would get it quite cheap because there's one for sale in Finland._

 

I don't think any of the regulars here have an Egmont, actually.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry if this question doesn't belong in this thread but this is the easiest way to reach all you Stax geeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any experience with Rudistor Egmont driving Omega II or 404? I would get it quite cheap because there's one for sale in Finland._

 

There hasn't been much information on it here. I have the schematic and I'm not terribly fond of the design and the build quality but if you can get it cheap then it would be worth it. You can always sell it on at a minimal loss if you don't like it. 



			
				Carl;3131843 said:
			
		

> Nobody likes PCB designing. I'll probably pay someone to do it for me once I work out what I want to go where.
> 
> Good idea.
> 
> ...


----------



## Patu

Thanks for the quick replies. I hope there are some people who have actually heard the Egmont.

 There would also be an used SRM-T1 for sale in Finland. Though I'm not sure if it's still there because one store has listed it for several months already. I see you own that one also spritzer. How is it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the quick replies. I hope there are some people who have actually heard the Egmont.

 There would also be an used SRM-T1 for sale in Finland. Though I'm not sure if it's still there because one store has listed it for several months already. I see you own that one also spritzer. How is it?_

 

There are a few that own Egmonts but not all have the ability to compare with other amps. Without a direct comparison most impressions are worthless.

 The T1 is a great amp and I prefer it to it's newest version, the 006t. If you can buy it cheap (3-400$ or less) then go for it. It will drive all but the toughest phones very well.


----------



## varro

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I adjust voltage on the new Stax adapters? If I can then how to do it. 

 I was just wondering that I could get a Stax setup very cheap from PJ but the voltage is 100V. For example, Signature System goes for 783EUR from PJ and in Finland it's over 2100EUR. 

 If this isn't possible then can you recommend me some high end step down transformer._

 

Muuntosähkö/Trafox transformers are good enough, you can order them from their website or from partco. Also they seem to popup on huuto.net on regular basis.


----------



## JecklinStax

_More SR-X Mk3 and Jecklin tweaks_

 Mounting Omega II pads on my SR-X (by slipping them over the standard SR-X pads and glueing them lightjy in place), I gained some quite good bass; stereo width increased too, as did isolation and especially wearing comfort.
 Next step was a digital bass boost from a Behringer UltraCurve Pro 8024 (a DEQ 2496 will work just as fine, I'm sure), before sending the digital output to the Aqvoz DAC. I programmed a boost from 63 Hz down, gently increasing to + 4 dB at 31,5 Hz, and going down again to - 2 dB at 20 Hz. Result: Really deep and heavy bass from an SR-X for the first time! 
 Last step: driving the SRD-7 from a tiny Trends Audio Tripath amp, fed by the Aqvox. Wonderfully natural sound, very clean and plenty loud too.

 The Jecklin Float likes a comparable bass boost too, but there I start a bit higher (at 80 Hz), going to + 4,5 dB at 40 Hz, and going down again below that, this time a bit more steeply; the Jecklin can handle bass to 40Hz fine, but not much further down. Result: a more solid and weighty presentation on top of the typically spacious and dynamic Jecklin performance.

 Have fun!

 Happy tweaking


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quality SS diodes are pretty good and I doubt it would be worth the hassle to use a tube._

 

Well, I'm no fan of them. Damping diodes like 6CJ3s have far lower noise levels than any solid state part. I'm not talking about junk like 5Y3s here.

  Quote:


 It's a good tube setup. Deviating from the original too much is sort of missing the point. 
 

Indeed.

  Quote:


 I don't know of any place off the top of my head but I'll check and see if I can find anything locally or on the net. A quick search found some nice big Russian paper/oil units... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 

Cheers. I did look myself, but turned up nothing.

  Quote:


 It's true. If they solved the jitter "problem" then how could they sell all these new dac's that are supposed to be immune to it... 
 

Immune to jitter without workclocking, yes that's really possible.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Getting the service manual for this thing was the best idea I've had for a long time. All components listed and marked along with the correct specs for everything all in a handy PDF. 
 

That's handy.

  Quote:


 The DAC is indeed the S1 version so now I'm looking for an S2, and I'm the bad influence... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

It's a big improvement for the money and you know it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I might leave the resistors in place since they look like Rikens and they are marked as carbon in the parts list. Why can't Sony do something like this today!!! 
 

Sony using Rikens today would be unconceiveable. The player wouldn't harsh or metalic enough for them. 

  Quote:


 Do you know of any good power converters that the Japanese use on their imported machines? I'm going to put a transformer inside it for 230v and it isn't easy to find a good quality transformer for this ratio. 
 

You could get a proper transformer maker (Tribute, Lundahl, Electra-print, etc) to do you a custom one, maybe? A bit expensive, but at least you'll know you're getting quality.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I'm no fan of them. Damping diodes like 6CJ3s have far lower noise levels than any solid state part. I'm not talking about junk like 5Y3s here._

 

It's a compromise I'm willing to make. Maybe not on a true reference design but on something that is meant to be practical. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers. I did look myself, but turned up nothing._

 

I'm sorry to say that Solens (sorry might have to throw up...) could be a good choice. They are cheap, reliable, with a high voltage rating and not terribly big. Sound like crap but better then most electrolytics and with the help of a 1/100 coupling cap of better quality could be ok 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Immune to jitter without workclocking, yes that's really possible.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

With buffering it is possible because you are essentially reclocking but it is a bad way of doing things. It helps them sell horrible little things like the Benchmark so more power to them I guess... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a big improvement for the money and you know it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It would be the final part of the mod and I'd want to have enough supply of the S1 models in case I do something stooopidddd.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sony using Rikens today would be unconceiveable. The player wouldn't harsh or metalic enough for them._

 

True. I think I'll let them be because they are very good resistors and even though the tants are better it isn't worth the price. 

 I've been looking over the parts list and this won't be cheap. A lot of Black Gates. I can replace most of the old film caps with BG NX couplers as they are very good and only about 2$ each. I do need about 50 of them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and some much more expensive units. I can solve the big tanks by using a bunch of smaller units as they will sound better any way. Now I've got to find some yellow NextGen silver sockets...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could get a proper transformer maker (Tribute, Lundahl, Electra-print, etc) to do you a custom one, maybe? A bit expensive, but at least you'll know you're getting quality._

 

I just found one on Yahoo that I can use. No audiophile quality but many different primary taps so I can get an accurate 100v supply. I was thinking about ordering a bunch of 235->100v transformers from one of the special makers because I love Japanese equipment and will need to install a lot of them...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More SR-X Mk3 and Jecklin tweaks

 Mounting Omega II pads on my SR-X (by slipping them over the standard SR-X pads and glueing them lightjy in place), I gained some quite good bass; stereo width increased too, as did isolation and especially wearing comfort._

 

Sounds like a fun tweak.
 I have a spare pair of SR-007 pads and will them a try on the SR-X/MK3's as well (without the gluing that is). The SR-X/MK3 is a fun headphone, and if this cures the bass roll-off it could be a nice ride...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Jecklin Float likes a comparable bass boost too, but there I start a bit higher (at 80 Hz), going to + 4,5 dB at 40 Hz, and going down again below that, this time a bit more steeply; the Jecklin can handle bass to 40Hz fine, but not much further down. Result: a more solid and weighty presentation on top of the typically spacious and dynamic Jecklin performance.

 Have fun!

 Happy tweaking
_
_


From my experience with the Float electrostatic, I'd have said a bass boost was the last thing it needed. What model do you have?_


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Immune to jitter without workclocking, yes that's really possible.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There are pretty much only two 100% solutions to jitter - slaving transport to the DAC clock, as you say, or using a high bandwidth bidirectional link with flow control and buffering on the DAC side - then you can read from the buffer at the local clock and use flow control to prevent under/overruns.

 In practice both would be implemented in a similar fashion - the difference is just where you place the buffer - on the transport or DAC side.


----------



## JecklinStax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From my experience with the Float electrostatic, I'd have said a bass boost was the last thing it needed. What model do you have?_

 

I don't know which model; the transformer case says 'Jecklin PS 2'. Mine is about 16 years old and kept in good shape with new foam. Bass is fine but has a light quality to it, and it falls off below 80/90 Hz, as I saw in a graph in a test in 'HiFi Stereophonie' (German hifi mag) from december 1982! The Float has been around from 1970 or so. 

 By the way: the Trends Audio Tripath works lovely on the SR-X, but less so on the Jecklin, which simply needs more good Watts for an exciting drive.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a compromise I'm willing to make. Maybe not on a true reference design but on something that is meant to be practical._

 

Bad news for you, Birgir. I've been thinking about this all day, and I've decided I'll like to switch it over to damping diodes. I'm going to have to increase the voltage of the rectification stage anyway, as I don't want to drive my modern stats off a 200v bias supply (it just uses a bog standard voltage divider after the rectifier to split it into the B+ and the bias supply), so why not change it to a tube while I'm at it?

 That said, all is not lost. If I'm getting this printed on a board, it shouldn't be too hard to get a fork put in the trace so builders can choose between damping diodes and schottky diodes. Heck, if the transformer is built with a spare winding for the tube heaters one could change one's mind after the fact.

 That's my current train of thought.

  Quote:


 I'm sorry to say that Solens (sorry might have to throw up...) could be a good choice. They are cheap, reliable, with a high voltage rating and not terribly big. Sound like crap but better then most electrolytics and with the help of a 1/100 coupling cap of better quality could be ok 
 

Makes no sense to me. The right Solens would cost $9.25 and $14.15 each, respectively. Compare that to Russian polypropylene/oil run caps off ebay which will sound no worse. A G.E. polyprop/oil would sound better, be cheaper, and not offer financial assistance to Solen.

 I'm no fan of bypassing caps. The improvement sound quality is usually not worth the time-domain effects of dissimilar caps in parallel to me. Maybe if this was in some critical location, but we're only talking DC blocking caps in the power supply. 

  Quote:


 With buffering it is possible because you are essentially reclocking but it is a bad way of doing things. It helps them sell horrible little things like the Benchmark so more power to them I guess... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Synchronous reclocking reduces jitter, but can't get anywhere near eliminating it. As for asynchronous reclocking; nasty, nasty stuff that.

  Quote:


 tants are better it isn't worth the price. 
 

Basically sums it up. I like tants a lot, but the sonic effects of resistors are too small to warrent using more than a smattering of them unless the amp is hugely expensive anyway. There are three spots per channel in the SRA-7S where there is a series resistor, and I plan to make them tants, but the rest of it no way. I'd imagine it'd be a similar deal with the DAS-R1.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are pretty much only two 100% solutions to jitter - slaving transport to the DAC clock, as you say, or using a high bandwidth bidirectional link with flow control and buffering on the DAC side - then you can read from the buffer at the local clock and use flow control to prevent under/overruns.

 In practice both would be implemented in a similar fashion - the difference is just where you place the buffer - on the transport or DAC side._

 

Oh yeah, I forgot you could do it that way too. Both approches achieve the same thing, really, just through different methods.

 Given the fact that digital bandwidth is no longer expensive or difficult, there is no real reason not to do this anymore (back in the 70s, yes, it was totally impractical), but the SPDIF and AES/EBU standards simply refuse to die. I guess if audio companies all did their digital stages this way they'd kill their market. They'd have to start focusing on making analogue stages that were actually good for a change rather than giving us almost-identical high-NFB opamp and electrolyic cap based war crimes to listen to.

 It all almost makes on want to become a zero-oversampling zealot, it's really quite depressing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bad news for you, Birgir. I've been thinking about this all day, and I've decided I'll like to switch it over to damping diodes. I'm going to have to increase the voltage of the rectification stage anyway, as I don't want to drive my modern stats off a 200v bias supply (it just uses a bog standard voltage divider after the rectifier to split it into the B+ and the bias supply), so why not change it to a tube while I'm at it?

 That said, all is not lost. If I'm getting this printed on a board, it shouldn't be too hard to get a fork put in the trace so builders can choose between damping diodes and schottky diodes. Heck, if the transformer is built with a spare winding for the tube heaters one could change one's mind after the fact.

 That's my current train of thought._

 

I'll get over it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm always up for more tubes and a dampen diode would use the filament windings from the main trafo while the main tubes would run on separate transformers. I'm too tired to dip up the schematic, so what is the the transformer spec on the stock amp?

 The bias supply is easy to pull off. A small PC mount trafo with an adjustable voltage multiplier. I think two or more supply's would be wise, all adjustable for 230-600v. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Makes no sense to me. The right Solens would cost $9.25 and $14.15 each, respectively. Compare that to Russian polypropylene/oil run caps off ebay which will sound no worse. A G.E. polyprop/oil would sound better, be cheaper, and not offer financial assistance to Solen._

 

What I found on a quick search was much more expensive then the crappy Solens and much bigger. There must be some other manufacturer that makes big film cap and isn't French... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really shouldn't talk badly about them though because my SR-omega is currently there on the way to me.

 I'm always up for some ex Russian military stock stuff if all else fails. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm no fan of bypassing caps. The improvement sound quality is usually not worth the time-domain effects of dissimilar caps in parallel to me. Maybe if this was in some critical location, but we're only talking DC blocking caps in the power supply._

 

Bypasses are a last ditch attempt to fix what you can. It's a very bad idea to use them with coupling caps but PSU usage should be better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Synchronous reclocking reduces jitter, but can't get anywhere near eliminating it. As for asynchronous reclocking; nasty, nasty stuff that._

 

Really nasty stuff but a lot of people use it. Anything asynchronous is usually a bad idea. Jitter isn't the problem it's made out to be but it is a nicely measured unit that can be blamed for kinds of things. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basically sums it up. I like tants a lot, but the sonic effects of resistors are too small to warrent using more than a smattering of them unless the amp is hugely expensive anyway. There are three spots per channel in the SRA-7S where there is a series resistor, and I plan to make them tants, but the rest of it no way. I'd imagine it'd be a similar deal with the DAS-R1._

 

For a cost no object design they are the only choice but the Rikens are a very good substitute even though they are only slightly cheaper. Anything is better then the Vishay metal films. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It all almost makes on want to become a zero-oversampling zealot, it's really quite depressing._

 

No, depression is looking at the insides of the G08. The once proud digital maverick Meridian has finally gone bonkers. A very cheap OEM switcher PSU, the very bad DVS dvd drive and a tiny output stage but plenty of chips to fix something they created by design. It does sound very good but it could have been so much better...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll get over it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm always up for more tubes and a dampen diode would use the filament windings from the main trafo while the main tubes would run on separate transformers. I'm too tired to dip up the schematic, so what is the the transformer spec on the stock amp?_

 

6.3V/2.2A, 5.5V/0.3A, 5.5V/0.3A, 220V/110mA is what it says on the transformer, but it doesn't seem to add up to what the amp is seeing. I'm not sure which tube they're running at 5.5V, I guess probably the 6AU6. Starved cathodes is a technique used with DHTs to reduce distortion, but I'm not aware of it working with indirectly heated ones. 

 The schematic lists 600V as coming out of the rectification stage, but I'm not sure how the managed to come up with that if the tap is truely 220V. Surely it'd be 220x2-45 or so for a full-wave solid state rectifier. I guess I'll have to probe it to find out unless someone has an idea of how they pulled that off.

  Quote:


 The bias supply is easy to pull off. A small PC mount trafo with an adjustable voltage multiplier. I think two or more supply's would be wise, all adjustable for 230-600v. 
 

That'd be a complete change in the way the amp develops bias. I'm inclined to stick with the simple approach of simply using a resistor based voltage divider. It's much simpler than messing around with cap-based voltage multipliers or autoformers.

 What I found on a quick search was much more expensive then the crappy Solens and much bigger. There must be some other manufacturer that makes big film cap and isn't French... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [/quote]
 Search for GE 97F.

  Quote:


 I'm always up for some ex Russian military stock stuff if all else fails. 
 

Yes, they're always priced nicely.

  Quote:


 Bypasses are a last ditch attempt to fix what you can. It's a very bad idea to use them with coupling caps but PSU usage should be better. 
 

I don't think it'd be needed here, in any case.

  Quote:


 Anything is better then the Vishay metal films. 
 

What about metal oxides? Now they are unpleasent sounding resistors.


----------



## amartignano

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the quick replies. I hope there are some people who have actually heard the Egmont._

 

I've listened to a "custom made" Egmont driving the OmegaII. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76406
 Wonderful sound, but there weren't other contenders, so I don't know how it compares with other amps.

 Andrew


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6.3V/2.2A, 5.5V/0.3A, 5.5V/0.3A, 220V/110mA is what it says on the transformer, but it doesn't seem to add up to what the amp is seeing. I'm not sure which tube they're running at 5.5V, I guess probably the 6AU6. Starved cathodes is a technique used with DHTs to reduce distortion, but I'm not aware of it working with indirectly heated ones. 

 The schematic lists 600V as coming out of the rectification stage, but I'm not sure how the managed to come up with that if the tap is truely 220V. Surely it'd be 220x2-45 or so for a full-wave solid state rectifier. I guess I'll have to probe it to find out unless someone has an idea of how they pulled that off._

 

It's an easy transformer to source so that's one problem solved. 

 Turning 220v into 600v after rectifying? I can't really see either how that is pulled off. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That'd be a complete change in the way the amp develops bias. I'm inclined to stick with the simple approach of simply using a resistor based voltage divider. It's much simpler than messing around with cap-based voltage multipliers or autoformers._

 

It's an ok way to do it and put it on the board by all means. I prefer an adjustable supply with separate caps for those cans that need plenty of juice. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Search for GE 97F._

 

Ok, looks good. I might even be able to get them locally. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about metal oxides? Now they are unpleasent sounding resistors._

 

Very nasty stuff but still better then some old, out of spec carbons. 

 I've been looking into the S2 dacs. It won't be easy to find but it can be done. 

 I'm also considering adding a passive balanced output to the R1 with some nice Lundahls. Could be nice.

 Why can't a nice CDP-R1 show up for sale now at an affordable price...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's an easy transformer to source so that's one problem solved.

 Turning 220v into 600v after rectifying? I can't really see either how that is pulled off._

 

That's what the schematic says. I'm guessing up to that far in the amp is working normally, so I'll try to go in with a scope tomorrow and see what is actually going on in there.

  Quote:


 It's an ok way to do it and put it on the board by all means. I prefer an adjustable supply with separate caps for those cans that need plenty of juice. 
 

Well exactly. I wasn't intending to add a 500v bias supply anyway, so for your needs a new one would be best.

  Quote:


 I've been looking into the S2 dacs. It won't be easy to find but it can be done. 
 

They are still out there. Count yourself lucky that you're not trying to track down UltraAnalog 20400As, now those are what you call unobtanium. They'd make a nice upgrade for the X1t's DACs, though, so think about the fun you might have in the future. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I'm also considering adding a passive balanced output to the R1 with some nice Lundahls. Could be nice. 
 

Stepup transformers for DACs can be very nice indeed. You can lose a whole bunch of caps, opamps, and feedbck loops and replace them with one Tx. Really nice.

  Quote:


 Why can't a nice CDP-R1 show up for sale now at an affordable price... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

The R1a and R10 CD players are completely intercompatible...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what the schematic says. I'm guessing up to that far in the amp is working normally, so I'll try to go in with a scope tomorrow and see what is actually going on in there._

 

Please do. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well exactly. I wasn't intending to add a 500v bias supply anyway, so for your needs a new one would be best._

 

Ahh now I see where you are going with this. My bad... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It' always easy to mount one or two supply's on a separate board somewhere in the case. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are still out there. Count yourself lucky that you're not trying to track down UltraAnalog 20400As, now those are what you call unobtanium. They'd make a nice upgrade for the X1t's DACs, though, so think about the fun you might have in the future. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll just buy the newer version of the X1t that had them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm sure that there are S2's out there but it would be the final mod. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stepup transformers for DACs can be very nice indeed. You can lose a whole bunch of caps, opamps, and feedbck loops and replace them with one Tx. Really nice._

 

Very nice indeed. I haven't looked over the schematics and checked whether or not I can get a true differential output put of the 1541a's because there are two of them. They might be connected in parallel though to increase headroom. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The R1a and R10 CD players are completely intercompatible..._

 

Information on this is limited at best. There seems to be a new improved version of the TWIN LINK in the R1a and the R10 so that might not be compatible but the coax connection isn't so bad, especially with a Stealth Varidig Sextet digital cable.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The CDP-R1a has some features I'd want like switchable digital output on the front panel and a better transport. I might have to buy both or an Esoteric P-0s....


----------



## randerson3024

Is anyone familiar with the Egmont? I contacted Rudistor about this model. It looks very intriguing, and I think I am going to get one for use on the boat. Also, does anyone know if there are decent adapter cables made for HE 90's? I have several Stax sets as well as HE 60's configured with a Stax cable, so my only choice is to have it configured as such.

 If anyone has any advice concerning other brands and models, I would be grateful for a tip.

 Thanks,

 Bob


----------



## spritzer

SR-Omega is in the house! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'll post some pictures after I can manage to take them off my head and give them a good cleaning. 

 First impressions are very favorable and they are a beast to drive just like their little brother. Perhaps not quite as bad but the T1 can't manage it all that well. They lack the deep bass and the bass control of their younger brother and there is a little bit less detail but the soundstage is huge and not diffused like the He90. The top end is very much like the SR-007, extended but ever so slightly shut in. No I've got to put in another CD...


----------



## randerson3024

Cool, I look forward to seeing the pics.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, I look forward to seeing the pics._

 

I'll only have get them off my head first...

 The He90 cables are all Stax extensions with a Fisher connector so they should all sound the same. The Stax cable is much better then the crap Sennheiser used so no deterioration there. You should know that the He90 doesn't really work out of a Stax Pro socket as the bias is lower and they need a higher charge resistor. For a Stax headphone the difference in bias voltage wouldn't be a problem but the Sennheiser isn't as overbuilt as Stax does it so they will begin to behave strangely. Lovering the bias and adding another 5Mohm resistor should do the trick. You should be able to send them to Sennheiser and have them fix it but it will alter the sound somewhat, how much I'm not sure and whether it is for better or for worse. 

 We haven't had much experience with the Egmont's but I'm going to build one one of these days with a cheap PSU. I'm far from impressed with the build and parts quality at this price level and one amp did burn up but that can always happen. Talk to the owners and get their feedback and beware that impressions are pretty much worthless unless the user has used an amp of similar level for an extended period of time. ESL's are know for tricking people with their sirens song...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Omega is in the house! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll post some pictures after I can manage to take them off my head and give them a good cleaning._

 

Nice! Keep us posted with some pictures and impressions... :lambda


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! Keep us posted with some pictures and impressions... :lambda_

 

X2 !!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll only have get them off my head first...

 The He90 cables are all Stax extensions with a Fisher connector so they should all sound the same. The Stax cable is much better then the crap Sennheiser used so no deterioration there. You should know that the He90 doesn't really work out of a Stax Pro socket as the bias is lower and they need a higher charge resistor. For a Stax headphone the difference in bias voltage wouldn't be a problem but the Sennheiser isn't as overbuilt as Stax does it so they will begin to behave strangely. Lovering the bias and adding another 5Mohm resistor should do the trick. You should be able to send them to Sennheiser and have them fix it but it will alter the sound somewhat, how much I'm not sure and whether it is for better or for worse. 

 We haven't had much experience with the Egmont's but I'm going to build one one of these days with a cheap PSU. I'm far from impressed with the build and parts quality at this price level and one amp did burn up but that can always happen. Talk to the owners and get their feedback and beware that impressions are pretty much worthless unless the user has used an amp of similar level for an extended period of time. ESL's are know for tricking people with their sirens song... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the tips. I am shopping around now, I intend to keep my Aristeaus at home, but would very much like to find an amp that will properly drive the 4070's. I am probably too eager to find some HE90's when I should be spending time enjoying and maximizing the quality of what I have.


----------



## spritzer

Here they are hanging out with a couple of friends... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Here is the logo...




 There are more pics in my library here

 All these impressions are preliminary and might change tomorrow... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are in very good condition and the pads are almost indistinguishable from my NOS set. A good indication of how much use a Stax set has received over the years are the lines on the cables as they rub off with use. They are pristine on this set. There are some slight scuff marks here and there but nothing major. On the whole I'm very very happy but this won't be my only set of Omegas for very long... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The sound is very much like the He90 but without some of the things that really bother me. They aren't diffused at all, have deep and tune full bass which is a welcome change from the drum effect the HE90 has. While the highs aren't as glorious and extended there isn't the slight upper midrange harshness of the He90 and they are a bit smoother. 

 Compared to the SR-007 they fall a bit short I'm sad to say. I am a great admirer of the SR-007 and the SR-Omega shares some of them and some of the weaknesses as well, notably the . The O1 is looser on the head to the point of almost falling off. The headband is in pristine condition so that isn't the problem. The pads are just a bit too big and the extension at the end of the arc makes it too loose unlike the Lambda Signature that uses the exact same arc. I like a snug fit and this boils all down to preference so it isn't really an issue. 

 The O1's soundstage is vast compared to the O2's but lacks the same focus, layering and depth. It does offer a slightly more relaxed presentation even though the O1 isn't as smooth as the O2. The bass is a bit loose and out of control on the O1 but miles better then the He90. The SR-007 bass is in a league of its own so I'm not surprised by this. 

 I've yet to nail down the midrange coloration but the O1's lack the "reach out and touch the performer" midrange of the SR-007. It's good in the normal Stax fashion but not as crazy good as the newer model. 

 I think that just about does it for now. Back to do some more listening...


----------



## Afrikane

A very fine specimen of the SR-Ω you have there Spritzer, congrats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A very fine specimen of the SR-Ω you have there Spritzer, congrats._

 

Thanks, yours ain't so bad either... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. do you have a scan or a PDF of the manual since I didn't get one?


----------



## Afrikane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, yours ain't so bad either... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. My impressions mirror yours with regard to the SR-007/SR-Ω albeit with a SRM-717, I am dying to hear how the Grande Dame does on my ES-1. If I get the amp back sometime this year.


----------



## Xaerox

Hey,
 I need a piece of advice, because I am facing a dilemma : I can't choose between the 727A and the 007tII . each have pros and cons.

 Which one would you choose and why?

 Thanks for your help


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. My impressions mirror yours with regard to the SR-007/SR-Ω albeit with a SRM-717, I am dying to hear how the Grande Dame does on my ES-1. If I get the amp back sometime this year._

 

Glad to hear I'm not deaf... yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a shame to hear about your ES-1. Why haven't they sent it back to you yet?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xaerox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey,
 I need a piece of advice, because I am facing a dilemma : I can't choose between the 727A and the 007tII . each have pros and cons.

 Which one would you choose and why?

 Thanks for your help_

 

I would take the tube unit but I like tubes for ESL use as the solid state stuff is a bit too cold and analytical. 

 Both have their strengths but Stax intended the original 717 for studio use so it has a bit of that studio sound i.e. slightly sterile. The tube units have the right amount of bloom to make them very pleasant without dragging the sound into a muddy mess.


----------



## Duggeh

My preference is for the 727, for the same reasons that spritzer mentioned, except that I like the opposite thing. I wanted more detail and control with the Omega 2. It has enough problems with bloom and boom unless you feed it 1.21 jiggawatts.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My preference is for the 727, for the same reasons that spritzer mentioned, except that I like the opposite thing. I wanted more detail and control with the Omega 2. It has enough problems with bloom and boom unless you feed it 1.21 jiggawatts._

 

It's actually 1.21_7_ jiggawatts but you were close enough...


----------



## Duggeh

.
	

.


----------



## Afrikane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to hear I'm not deaf... yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It's a shame to hear about your ES-1. Why haven't they sent it back to you yet?_

 

Your guess is as good as mine re the ES-1
 It is a bit frustrating because the SRM-717 clearly does not have the gas to drive the SR-Omega. I have an original manual and will scan and PDF for you later on.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O1's soundstage is vast compared to the O2's but lacks the same focus, layering and depth. It does offer a slightly more relaxed presentation even though the O1 isn't as smooth as the O2. The bass is a bit loose and out of control on the O1 but miles better then the He90. The SR-007 bass is in a league of its own so I'm not surprised by this. _

 

Congratulations on snagging a classic and in good shape too.

 I am puzzled when people comment on the soundstage being affected by the headphones, because I tend to believe that soundstage is primarily source dependent and the major factor in soundstage is channel separation. I.e. if you feed any phones a monaural signal. you will have no soundstage at all, no matter how good the phones are.

 I think that sometimes frequency response characteristics can contribute to the perception of an increased soundstage. Thus a mid-bass peak e.g 400 Hz will give more ambience and so the soundstage may sound more prominent. I suspect that bassy phones in general give a sense of a better soundstage.

 However I accept your observation about these phones but I wonder what aspect of their reproduction do you think gives the improved soundstage?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your guess is as good as mine re the ES-1
 It is a bit frustrating because the SRM-717 clearly does not have the gas to drive the SR-Omega. I have an original manual and will scan and PDF for you later on._

 

Did they loose the amp? It was bad enough that they were shipping them with all sorts of problems and wiring issues but this is horrible. Makes me glad that I held onto the BH. The BH has be problem free for almost 3 years now unless you count my growing hatred for stepped attenuators, teflon wires and toroidal transformers. All of this calls for a complete rebuild with a new power supply. Life was so much simpler back in 2004... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The O1's are huge power hogs. I plugged it into the T1 for about a minute before powering up the BH. It's clear that the big guns were needed... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the manual, much appreciated.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations on snagging a classic and in good shape too.

 I am puzzled when people comment on the soundstage being affected by the headphones, because I tend to believe that soundstage is primarily source dependent and the major factor in soundstage is channel separation. I.e. if you feed any phones a monaural signal. you will have no soundstage at all, no matter how good the phones are.

 I think that sometimes frequency response characteristics can contribute to the perception of an increased soundstage. Thus a mid-bass peak e.g 400 Hz will give more ambience and so the soundstage may sound more prominent. I suspect that bassy phones in general give a sense of a better soundstage.

 However I accept your observation about these phones but I wonder what aspect of their reproduction do you think gives the improved soundstage?_

 

I think it boils down to the pad design and angle, shape and distance of the driver. The SR-007 has the driver quite far from the ear but the pad is quite small. The SR-Omega and the He90 are the other way around with large pads and close drivers and they are pretty similar. Lambdas are pretty much the same here. 

 Dual Mono on the O1 is pretty good actually, with great ambiance but no real soundstage but it isn't like it's a point source or any thing.


----------



## Afrikane

I think SP have a huge amount of orders and not enough hands to do the work. I sent mine in April to get the HE90 jack wired correctly and a new biasing system put in. I have half an eye on the BH-SE that Justin is going to put out in limited numbers. Manual on the way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think SP have a huge amount of orders and not enough hands to do the work. I sent mine in April to get the HE90 jack wired correctly and a new biasing system put in. I have half an eye on the BH-SE that Justin is going to put out in limited numbers. Manual on the way._

 

That would be my guess as well. I know it form my own company that when we are swamped with orders things can fall by the wayside but a simple fix like yours shouldn't take more then 2 hours. When you faced with something like this in production it's much better to start producing in batches and let repair and warranty work always have priority. 

 I've seen some picture of the main board for the BH-SE and it looks good. The amp will be much cleaner then my version though I do prefer to have the inputs in wires instead of PCB traces.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xaerox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey,
 I need a piece of advice, because I am facing a dilemma : I can't choose between the 727A and the 007tII . each have pros and cons.

 Which one would you choose and why?

 Thanks for your help_

 

I did a three way A/B with a 717, 727 & 007t. On the O2 I liked the 717. On the Lambda's I liked the 007t. The 717 is crisp, transparent and dynamic on the O2, but still is open and musical. The 007t is not near as dynamic or extended on top and bottom as the 717. At times the 007t with the O2 sound dull and lifeless. I really like the 007t on the Lambda pros and low bias Lambda. I think that Stax tried to make the 727 sound like a tube amp, but it just sounds dull and boring.

 My pick for a Stax amp for the O2 is the 717 and I own a 007t also.
 My pick for a Stax amp for the Lambda's is a 007t. (the 007tII does not have a normal bias output)

 AudioD


----------



## [AK]Zip

You Omega 1 guys will appreciate this.

 Omega 1 specs and sales manual. I was going to add it here sooner, but I kept forgetting.

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1993.pdf

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1994.pdf

 Enjoy guys!

 -Alex-


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You Omega 1 guys will appreciate this.

 Omega 1 specs and sales manual. I was going to add it here sooner, but I kept forgetting.

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1993.pdf

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1994.pdf

 Enjoy guys!

 -Alex-_

 

Ah - but it's all in Japanese!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You Omega 1 guys will appreciate this.

 Omega 1 specs and sales manual. I was going to add it here sooner, but I kept forgetting.

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1993.pdf

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1994.pdf

 Enjoy guys!

 -Alex-_

 

Thanks, I've meant to upload those for a while as well. Now if somebody could get them in English...


----------



## audiod

Carl,
 I just purchased a set of Koss ESP-950’s on your recommendation. I would like to convert them for use with my Stax amps. Can you please tell me the pin-out of the phones and any other info I may need for the conversion?

 Thanks… AudioD


----------



## evil-zen




----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

I know John, I know. The 5 days waiting for information after the money left my account weren't actually easy...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl,
 I just purchased a set of Koss ESP-950’s on your recommendation. I would like to convert them for use with my Stax amps. Can you please tell me the pin-out of the phones and any other info I may need for the conversion?_

 

I don't actually know. Alex did the recabling for me, so he'd know.

 Although they've been critised by some members of this forum, and like other stats of a similar price it's certainly not without its flaws, I think they're really nice headphones. They have a much more filled-in midrange than most stats that keeps me going back to them. I think Kevin and myself are just about the only ones who come in to bat for them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know John, I know. The 5 days waiting for information after the money left my account weren't actually easy..._

 

[size=xx-small](pssst pssst, I don't think that's what he wanted to hear)[/size]


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't actually know. Alex did the recabling for me, so he'd know.

 Although they've been critised by some members of this forum, and like other stats of a similar price it's certainly not without its flaws, I think they're really nice headphones. They have a much more filled-in midrange than most stats that keeps me going back to them. I think Kevin and myself are just about the only ones who come in to bat for them._

 

I really don't need to hear this... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ...and here I was thinking I was going to start trimming the collection a bit... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=xx-small](pssst pssst, I don't think that's what he wanted to hear)[/size]_

 

I know, I know. The seller was a bit flaky and his understanding of English was comical at best. I could only understand his first reply after about 8 beers late at night and conveying my customs declaration wishes seemed impossible. What really helped me was that one of my employees is German and she did a fine job of yelling at him in his native language.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't actually know. Alex did the recabling for me, so he'd know._

 

Carl,
 Are you talking about a-LeXx?

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl,
 Are you talking about a-LeXx?

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh, sorry, I meant [AK]Zip.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, sorry, I meant [AK]Zip._

 

Thanks Carl!
 I just PMed him.
 I will keep you informed.

 AudioD


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't actually know. Alex did the recabling for me, so he'd know.

 Although they've been critised by some members of this forum, and like other stats of a similar price it's certainly not without its flaws, I think they're really nice headphones. They have a much more filled-in midrange than most stats that keeps me going back to them. I think Kevin and myself are just about the only ones who come in to bat for them.


 [size=xx-small](pssst pssst, I don't think that's what he wanted to hear)[/size]_

 

I think they're OK too. I have had a set for about 15 years! 

 I use the original amp with an upgraded power supply ( an Elenco bench supply). I am getting great dynamics with this set-up, probably better than the 404/717 set-up although the sound is somewhat grainy by comparison. I am planning to make an adapter for use with Stax amps too, so I would also like to confirm the connections. Alex is coy about giving this info. Maybe we can figure it out in this forum.

 Given the cheap prices of Stax in Japan, I would probably not recommend these over whatever Stax you can get for US$600-700.00 from Japan.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use the original amp with an upgraded power supply ( an Elenco bench supply). I am getting great dynamics with this set-up, probably better than the 404/717 set-up although the sound is somewhat grainy by comparison._

 

Yeah, there's some grain in the treble. On the other hand they don't have the 404's weird sounding mids. I think they come out of the comparison favourably, but then again I'm hardly a flag waving fan of the 404's sound.

 Like most stats with big diaphragms they like a nice controlling amp, but in the 950's particular case I think they sound perfectly fine with solid state electronics (preferably not nasty dual FETs, though!) which is not something that can be said for a lot of stats. The 717 should drive them nicely, a KGSS even better.

  Quote:


 I am planning to make an adapter for use with Stax amps too, so I would also like to confirm the connections. Alex is coy about giving this info. Maybe we can figure it out in this forum. 
 

I can't do it with mine for obvious reasons. If you get out a multimeter you should be able to work it out, though.

 Of course, making an adaptor would require a ESP950 connector, and they make HE60 connectors seem easy to find...

  Quote:


 Given the cheap prices of Stax in Japan, I would probably not recommend these over whatever Stax you can get for US$600-700.00 from Japan. 
 

Just don't pay $600+ for the Koss. They're easily had for $400 or less, and with that wonderful lifetime warrentee you can even buy a dead pair and get them fixed for the cost of postage.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just don't pay $600+ for the Koss. They're easily had for $400 or less, and with that wonderful lifetime warrentee you can even buy a dead pair and get them fixed for the cost of postage._

 

The lifetime warranty only goes to the original purchaser. But you can always try. That is one argument for buying a new pair.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The lifetime warranty only goes to the original purchaser. But you can always try. That is one argument for buying a new pair._

 

In reality, they don't actually care if you're the original owner. You don't even need to send in your warrenty with it, just the headphones.

 I wonder how they'd react to my recabled pair?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Of course, making an adaptor would require a ESP950 connector, and they make HE60 connectors seem easy to find..._

 

I was going to take the extension cord (that comes with it) and cut off the Koss connector and solder on a Stax connector. The connector on the phones will stay stock.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nobody likes PCB designing. I'll probably pay someone to do it for me once I work out what I want to go where._

 

I always enjoyed PCB designing. Well as long as OrCAD wasn't crashing that is. Not set up for the task these days though.

 Oh and congrats on picking up the Omegas Spritzer.

_*Continues catching up on the thread*_


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always enjoyed PCB designing. Well as long as OrCAD wasn't crashing that is. Not set up for the task these days though._

 

Are you volunteering, Matt?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you volunteering, Matt? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd be happy to if I had access to all the gear. Unfortunately I don't any more. Doing a PCB layout for analog circuitry is a easy as compared with digital circuitry.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be happy to if I had access to all the gear. Unfortunately I don't any more. Doing a PCB layout for analog circuitry is a easy as compared with digital circuitry._

 

What do you need? Considering I was intending to pay to get it done anyway, I could just buy you the tools instead.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you need? Considering I was intending to pay to get it done anyway, I could just buy you the tools instead._

 

You don't want to buy things like OrCAD, drill presses and printers to make photo etch masks. You could let some company make the boards after you had a design in a CAD program but I'm not aware of any options for doing this at anything resembling a reasonable cost. If you were laying out the masks by hand using tape, pens and pre-made component masks you could do it cheaper but that would be a real pain for any substantial circuit.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't want to buy things like OrCAD, drill presses and printers to make photo etch masks. You could let some company make the boards after you had a design in a CAD program but I'm not aware of any options for doing this at anything resembling a reasonable cost. If you were laying out the masks by hand using tape, pens and pre-made component masks you could do it cheaper but that would be a real pain for any substantial circuit._

 

No, not photo masks, I meant PCB layout CAD software. There's lots of them out there, but nothing worth using is free.

 Once you have the scan of the board getting one printed is easy.


----------



## Downrange

Just a quick note of thanks to whomever it was who posted in this thread (or was it the former thread?) with a recommendation to take in Beatles Love at the Mirage. I'm here in Vegas all week and got a chance to go last night, and it was fantastic! The sound is pretty amazing (I had front row seats and the action was incredible - bricks fell literally into my lap at one point! plastic yes). They have speakers in the headrests of each seat so every person has their own back channels (sounded like two separate feeds). Pretty remarkable.

 The only down side is I'm away from my O2s and my comparo of the KGSS and 7tII is interrupted. Oh well, it'll be good to get back with fresh ears - and the first cd I'm popping in will be Love.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only down side is I'm away from my O2s and my comparo of the KGSS and 7tII is interrupted. Oh well, it'll be good to get back with fresh ears - and the first cd I'm popping in will be Love. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm definitely looking forward to your comparison. On a side note - how long was the build and delivery time?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You Omega 1 guys will appreciate this.

 Omega 1 specs and sales manual. I was going to add it here sooner, but I kept forgetting.

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1993.pdf

http://apuresound.com/OMEGA1994.pdf

 Enjoy guys!

 -Alex-_

 

Thanks! **saved**
 My Japanese is a bit rusty though, so it would be great if someone had those in English.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Sorry to see that your SR-Omega buy fell through! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It can sometimes be hard to communicate with German sellers, as many of them seem to lack basic English skills.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only down side is I'm away from my O2s and my comparo of the KGSS and 7tII is interrupted. Oh well, it'll be good to get back with fresh ears - and the first cd I'm popping in will be Love. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Definitely looking forward to your KGSS vs. 007tII comparison.
 Reminds me that I need to spend some time comparing the 4070 against the SR-007 and Lambda Pro. Then write some lines about it in this thread... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 @Birgir and Carl. I very much enjoy your talk about this amplifier project of yours. Should be great fun following your development.
 Keep the information coming! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If there only were someone in my area with a Blue Hawaii, ES-1 or similar. So I could try my 'phones with a more powerful amplifier.


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* 
_No, not photo masks, I meant PCB layout CAD software. There's lots of them out there, but nothing worth using is free._

 

Eagle is pretty good, even the though the free version limits board size to 4" X 3.2" and can only have 2 layers. And then there's Kicad, an open source layout program. Kicad looks somewhat crude in comparison though.

 AFAIK, if you actually wanted to purchase a copy of PCB layout software typically used by hardware maufacturers, it would cost thousands of dollars. I believe that the full, uncrippled version of Eagle is $500, or $125 for the non-profit version.

  Quote:


 Once you have the scan of the board getting one printed is easy. 
 

Are you trying to make an exact copy of the original board, a modified version, or something different altogether?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AFAIK, if you actually wanted to purchase a copy of PCB layout software typically used by hardware maufacturers, it would cost thousands of dollars. I believe that the full, uncrippled version of Eagle is $500, or $125 for the non-profit version._

 

Pricey. The $125 version sound interesting, though, just how crippled is it?

  Quote:


 Are you trying to make an exact copy of the original board, a modified version, or something different altogether? 
 

I'm changing the circuit slighly (changing the tube complement) and making the board less cramped to allow more choice in parts. So not anything drastic, but enough to warrent a new board design.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm definitely looking forward to your comparison. On a side note - how long was the build and delivery time?_

 

It was about three months, but I did tell Justin I was in no hurry. It was definitely worth the wait.


----------



## AudioCats

Anybody have a picture of what is inside the Koss ESP950's energizer/amp? 

 Just wondering what kind of improvement might be done inside.... 

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always enjoyed PCB designing. Well as long as OrCAD wasn't crashing that is. Not set up for the task these days though.

 Oh and congrats on picking up the Omegas Spritzer.

*Continues catching up on the thread*_

 

I think he's volunteering... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Eagle is pretty good and I have it installed on one of my computers. I got it "cheap" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omegas are great but the infamous midrange coloration is rearing its ugly head. I wished I could turn of the intolerably active analytical side of my brain... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to take the extension cord (that comes with it) and cut off the Koss connector and solder on a Stax connector. The connector on the phones will stay stock._

 

That's what I would do as well. I've read somewhere that the wires are coated so it would be best to use a solder pot or something similar to burn off the insulation.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick note of thanks to whomever it was who posted in this thread (or was it the former thread?) with a recommendation to take in Beatles Love at the Mirage. I'm here in Vegas all week and got a chance to go last night, and it was fantastic! The sound is pretty amazing (I had front row seats and the action was incredible - bricks fell literally into my lap at one point! plastic yes). They have speakers in the headrests of each seat so every person has their own back channels (sounded like two separate feeds). Pretty remarkable.
_

 


 Because my wife is a 3'rd generation Las Vegan, I go there often to visit her family. I would like to see the LOVE show but at $500.00 for 4 tickets it's hard to justify. All the surviving beatles or their heirs have praised the show and the the LOVE cd is an interesting re-mix of Beatle standards.

 Bricks? Shades of Pink Floyd.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody have a picture of what is inside the Koss ESP950's energizer/amp? 

 Just wondering what kind of improvement might be done inside.... 

 Thanks_

 

I don't have a digital camera, unfortunately.

 It's 15.5cm long x 11cm wide x 6.5cm high (give or take half a cm), so is much smaller than it looks in photos.

 Getting inside it without breaking anything is close to impossible (#@%&$*! Koss) There are two boards stacked on top of each other with about half the surface area of the the bottom layer covered in a big aluminium shield. The thing is designed for compactness - all the resistors are standing up on one leg to fit more in. Film caps are mainly orange drops, lytics are labeled Gemcon, and there's an unusually large number of diodes in there.

 While I won't say equivocally that it wouldn't be worth modding, it'd be pretty far down my list. The Stax 252 is a much more accessable, straightforward design, and has far, far less parts to contend with.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eagle is pretty good, even the though the free version limits board size to 4" X 3.2" and can only have 2 layers. And then there's Kicad, an open source layout program. Kicad looks somewhat crude in comparison though.

 AFAIK, if you actually wanted to purchase a copy of PCB layout software typically used by hardware maufacturers, it would cost thousands of dollars. I believe that the full, uncrippled version of Eagle is $500, or $125 for the non-profit version._

 

Yep, OrCAD costs a few thousand from memory and is my benchmark so to speak. Eagle looks interesting though. I see some prefer it to OrCAD and it runs on MacOS X too which is always good in my book. I think I'll have to investigate.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, OrCAD costs a few thousand from memory and is my benchmark so to speak. Eagle looks interesting though. I see some prefer it to OrCAD and it runs on MacOS X too which is always good in my book. I think I'll have to investigate._

 

Good good. If you design the boards I don't mind paying a bit for software. Not a few thousand, though.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have a digital camera, unfortunately.

 It's 15.5cm long x 11cm wide x 6.5cm high (give or take half a cm), so is much smaller than it looks in photos.

 Getting inside it without breaking anything is close to impossible (#@%&$*! Koss) There are two boards stacked on top of each other with about half the surface area of the the bottom layer covered in a big aluminium shield. The thing is designed for compactness - all the resistors are standing up on one leg to fit more in. Film caps are mainly orange drops, lytics are labeled Gemcon, and there's an unusually large number of diodes in there.

 While I won't say equivocally that it wouldn't be worth modding, it'd be pretty far down my list. The Stax 252 is a much more accessable, straightforward design, and has far, far less parts to contend with._

 

Thanks!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 does it use step-up transformers of some kind? (maybe that is what's under the aluminum shield?)
 why didn't they use SMD to make the boards smaller? is the design really that old?


----------



## spritzer

Now I've been bitten by the bug to build an Egmont. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was going through my storage space and found out that I had one extra KGSS trafo and a few PSU boards so I could just use that for a very easy build. Add a couple of filament trafos and I have a cheap amp. Maybe I should just build another KGSS that I would actually use unlike the 2 box giant that sits unfinished in the other room. 

 Damn you Carl for indulging me in all this amp nonsense...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Thanks!
 So you ordered these SR-202 pads, and received a pair of all black one. Right?

 

That is the one I bought. Audiocubes should really do a once over on their site and correct all the wrong information._

 

The pads have landed, and they are indeed black even if the website state "Gray".






 Now on to cleaning up and mounting new pads on my favorite Lambda Pro pair.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads have landed, and they are indeed black even if the website state "Gray".







 Now on to cleaning up and mounting new pads on my favorite Lambda Pro pair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They really should correct the color description or just leave it out. 

 One tip for removing old Lambda pads, try to remove the glue with the pad and use a razor blade to help you. Cleaning off the old glue and maybe even some vinyl isn't much fun this close to the driver. Good luck.


----------



## krmathis

New pads in place.
 It went surprisingly easy to remove the old pads. Even if about 1/4 of the glue (and some vinyl) were stuck on the plastic. I removed this remaining material with my nails and finger tips.

 I have emailed Kohn (Audio Cubes), informing him that I received black pads. Then its all up to him if he change the website or not.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New pads in place.
 It went surprisingly easy to remove the old pads. Even if about 1/4 of the glue (and some vinyl) were stuck on the plastic. I removed this remaining material with my nails and finger tips.

 I have emailed Kohn (Audio Cubes), informing him that I received black pads. Then its all up to him if he change the website or not._

 

How does the SRM-07t drive the 4070's? I find my SRM-727 not quite up for the task. I am looking at amp options.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New pads in place.
 It went surprisingly easy to remove the old pads. Even if about 1/4 of the glue (and some vinyl) were stuck on the plastic. I removed this remaining material with my nails and finger tips.

 I have emailed Kohn (Audio Cubes), informing him that I received black pads. Then its all up to him if he change the website or not._

 

New pads make all the difference! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You could also inform him that the SR-404 pads are indeed chocolate brown and the Sigma and Sigma Pro pads are the same.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the SRM-07t drive the 4070's? I find my SRM-727 not quite up for the task. I am looking at amp options.




_

 

I find the SR-007 to drive all my Stax'en very well, including the 4070 and Omega II.
 But to be fair I have never tried them with any of the aftermarket amplifiers (Blue Hawaii, ES-1, KGSS, Aristaeus, etc.), cause afaik there are none in my area, and hence its highly possible that my 'phones have lots of potensial that I have never revealed.
 Hard to rank an amplifier when you have nothing to compare with! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have tested the Omega II with the 007t, 006t and SRM-1/MKII. With the 007t as a clear winner.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New pads make all the difference! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They sure to!
 Make the Lambda's feel and look like "brand new", even if they are made in 1988.
  Quote:


 You could also inform him that the SR-404 pads are indeed chocolate brown and the Sigma and Sigma Pro pads are the same. 
 

Done!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sure to!
 Make the Lambda's feel and look like "brand new", even if they are made in 1988._

 

It is quite amazing how good the Lambdas look even after years of loyal service in the hands of people that don't really know how to handle them. With a bit of cleaning and new pads most of them look almost brand new. 

 Some more on the O1's for good measure. It seems that the Blue Hawaii was made for the O1 and not the SR-007. I've never been completely happy with the SR-007/BH combo, it can sound a bit "off" at times and it doesn't really have enough power for the phones. It isn't a horrible mismatch but is has caused it to be used less and less even as my collection grows and it has lead me onto designing the monster of all headphone amps, just to make my favorite phones sing like they are supposed too. How does a push pull 845 sound with 845 driver tubes all coupled with transformers, at least that is where I'm heading this week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-Omega/Blue Hawaii sings like there is no tomorrow. According to the specs the SR-O is actually even more power hungry then it's younger brother but it isn't true in reality as the O2 needs another 3 steps on the attenuators. 
 In comparison the SR-007 does almost everything better (I've managed to make the SR-O more comfortable to wear but that's about it) but the synergy is so strong that I stopped comparing after a few songs and just used the O1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It could be that the O1 is hiding something in the BH that the SR-007's greater resolving ability is picking up but I can't put my finger on it and I really don't care... 

 The midrange coloration is there but it is pretty subtle and some songs suffer more then others. It is as there is a filter on the midrange causing it to sound slightly off, sort off a combination of being too laid back and recessed in the sound stage. Like I said it is pretty subtle but somebody very familiar with the SR-007 midrange will spot it over time but it isn't really bothersome.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_.
 The midrange coloration is there but it is pretty subtle and some songs suffer more then others. It is as there is a filter on the midrange causing it to sound slightly off, sort off a combination of being too laid back and recessed in the sound stage. Like I said it is pretty subtle but somebody very familiar with the SR-007 midrange will spot it over time but it isn't really bothersome._

 


 I sometimes think there is a midrange coloration on almost all Stax phones. It's noticeable in comparison with the old Koss models, eg. my ESP6, even though the 6 is in other ways not as good as any Stax I have. It's sort of a nasaly whine that you really only detect by making a comparions with another phone.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does it use step-up transformers of some kind?_

 

Nope. It's a real amp, battery-powered to boot. Think of it as a gigantic SRM-252.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_why didn't they use SMD to make the boards smaller? is the design really that old?_

 

Good question. I don't know how old the design is, myself. It has been around, quietly lurking, for many years. I have the feeling it dates to the early '90s. Anyone know for sure?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the SRM-07t drive the 4070's? I find my SRM-727 not quite up for the task. I am looking at amp options.




_

 

I have both a SRM-007t and a SRM-717. The 717 does a better job of driving the O2’s (dynamics, bass & max level). The 717 & 727 are the highest output amps that Stax makes. I think that the O2’s are less efficient and harder to drive than the 4070. The one thing that I have noticed is that the new Stax amps (007tII and 727II) have less gain than the older models (54db vs. 60db). You would have to turn up the volume control higher to get the same acoustic level as the older amps. This could give the impression of less power. If your source is low output this could be a problem. Try a high output source.

 AudioD


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does a push pull 845 sound with 845 driver tubes all coupled with transformers, at least that is where I'm heading this week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I for one like where this is going and look forward to see what you find. It has seemed to me for a while that some of the big tubes like the 805, 845 and GM70 would be ideal for use like this.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sometimes think there is a midrange coloration on almost all Stax phones. It's noticeable in comparison with the old Koss models, eg. my ESP6, even though the 6 is in other ways not as good as any Stax I have. It's sort of a nasaly whine that you really only detect by making a comparions with another phone._

 

Some of them do have a pretty colored midrange but it isn't nearly as bad as many other brands. It's almost always the housings fault so if you were to transplant the drivers it would be a very different picture. It is the same deal with the O1 but it is the coupling of the driver to the housing. When things get busy the vibrations can't escape the driver into the housing causing it to "overload" so to speak mucking things up. I've yet to remove the pads and examine the driver mounting and see if I can improve it without doing something drastic. 

 I find the ESP6 midrange nothing all that special but the SR-007 is something very special indeed and the true benchmark.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I for one like where this is going and look forward to see what you find. It has seemed to me for a while that some of the big tubes like the 805, 845 and GM70 would be ideal for use like this._

 

You can add the 211 to that list. It came up a while back to built a Kondo Ongaku clone with an 1:1 output trafo to give it push-pull capability. 

 I'm going to take my time with this as it will be my end all amp. When I rush my projects, bad things happen... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm leaning towards transformer coupling as it gives me the ability to run a more "scary" input tube, adds that transformer magic and is cheaper then using the silver caps I'd use. Now I'll have to find somebody to build for me huge silver film caps for the PSU...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 does it use step-up transformers of some kind? (maybe that is what's under the aluminum shield?)
 why didn't they use SMD to make the boards smaller? is the design really that old?_

 

Direct drive, no SMD.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does a push pull 845 sound with 845 driver tubes all coupled with transformers, at least that is where I'm heading this week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

845s are a pain to work with without using a solid state driver or stepdown TXs because of it's huge current demands. Something easier to drive like 572Bs or 75TL would be easier to get right.

  Quote:


 The SR-Omega/Blue Hawaii sings like there is no tomorrow. 
 

Undertandable considering it's based on the T2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_845s are a pain to work with without using a solid state driver or stepdown TXs because of it's huge current demands. Something easier to drive like 572Bs or 75TL would be easier to get right._

 

Nahhh I want some current.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Undertandable considering it's based on the T2._

 

I think while it is based on the same concept the design is pretty different. Without the schematic we can only guess though.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nahhh I want some current.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Nah, I meant it needs lots of current, not puts out a lot of current. In terms of Ip the 845 is good, but nothing out of this world.

  Quote:


 I think while it is based on the same concept the design is pretty different. Without the schematic we can only guess though. 
 

Well the Gilmore designs use BJTs similar to the KGSS and the Stax design used 6DJ8s triodes as a split load phase splitter feeding 2SK216 MOSFETs as source followers. I'd imagine Stax used one of their MOSFET-based super shunt power supplies for the B+.


----------



## Petyot

Hi,

 I went to a local Stax dealer today and had the opportunity to listen to a SRS-2050II system... OMG, what a blast! I really loved the sound. They are going to be mine in a near futur 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 I also did try the SR-001MKII system and as much as I did like the sound I found them very inconfortable.

 I am waiting for a pair of DT990 that should be there in a day or two but I am almost sure that they will be back in the sales corner with my HD600 and my LD II++ to help finance the Stax.

 My setup would be :

 Oppo DV-970 or PC >> Musiland M-10 >> SRS-2050II

 What do you think about that ? Good enough for Stax ?

 I must say that I have just discovered a whole new world of sound. I am very excited about it and just wanted to share my little experience with you all!

 Pierre


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I went to a local Stax dealer today and had the opportunity to listen to a SRS-2050II system... OMG, what a blast! I really loved the sound. They are going to be mine in a near futur 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 I also did try the SR-001MKII system and as much as I did like the sound I found them very inconfortable.

 I am waiting for a pair of DT990 that should be there in a day or two but I am almost sure that they will be back in the sales corner with my HD600 and my LD II++ to help finance the Stax.

 My setup would be :

 Oppo DV-970 or PC >> Musiland M-10 >> SRS-2050II

 What do you think about that ? Good enough for Stax ?

 I must say that I have just discovered a whole new world of sound. I am very excited about it and just wanted to share my little experience with you all!

 Pierre_

 

Sounds like a good introductory rig. You're not alone in finding the SR-001mk2 uncomfortable.


----------



## AudioCats

Is there any place I can get Stax drivers from? Other than Stax that is.

 and how much are they?

 Thanks


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any place I can get Stax drivers from? Other than Stax that is.

 and how much are they?

 Thanks_

 

Stax and Stax repairers only, unless you want to pillage another headphone for parts. Prices are ridiculous; about 2/3rds the price of the headphone itself unless the work is under warrenty.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the SR-007 to drive all my Stax'en very well, including the 4070 and Omega II.
 But to be fair I have never tried them with any of the aftermarket amplifiers (Blue Hawaii, ES-1, KGSS, Aristaeus, etc.), cause afaik there are none in my area, and hence its highly possible that my 'phones have lots of potensial that I have never revealed.
 Hard to rank an amplifier when you have nothing to compare with! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have tested the Omega II with the 007t, 006t and SRM-1/MKII. With the 007t as a clear winner._

 


 Thanks for the tip, it looks like I need to get my SRM-007t back out here. I HATE shipping such far distances, the packages always get mangled. Maybe I'll just buy the SRM-007tII instead, although, I would like to try some different amps. I'm afraid the Aristeaus would be injured in shipping and I want to use my Omega II's with it at home anyway.

 Are you enjoying the 4070's? I think they may end up sounding better than the HE 60's if I can find an amp to drive them properly. I can literally turn the volume up all the way on the SRM-727, I know I have good hearing, and I know I am not abusing the volume when I do. It's just weird............................


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ How does a push pull 845 sound with 845 driver tubes all coupled with transformers..._

 

The 845 is God's own tube. It has that smoky, oh so right sound of the AM jazz stations you could still hear in the American back country when I was a student. By comparison the 211 is dry as dust. An in-between DHT transmitter type, if you can still get some, is Svetlana's SV572-3 and -10 (the -30 is brutish and the -160 is a triode with a pentode transfer function).

 However, the 845 has its own problems on the way to achieving that sound. For a start, its lowest sweet spot is 960V operating; if you have auto bias, that means you have to deliver 1110V plus to the plate. A sweeter operating hotspot is 1040V. Then you have to find 150V minimum of signal voltage which means at least two stages of voltage amplification. Then you have to do the elevated signal with a driver tube which can take 20mA on its plate or the Miller capacitance will destroy the bandwidth. There are guides on my netsite in The KISS Amp section for calculating these numbers but I no longer publish kilovolt designs because I don't want the lives of amateurs on my conscience; 300B amps are dangerous enough!

 Let me stress, for clarity of mind all round, that to operate any of these kilovolt-plus transmitting tubes at all correctly, you will be working with a power supply putting out DC in the 1400-1500V range with more than enough current to kill you instantly. Up there you have to know what you're doing in both procedures and parts. Where will you find a meter that measures that high? Where will you get suitable resistors? Check the voltage ratings.

 The 211 makes even more stringent demands. Its only advantage is a lower signal demand. The 211 doesn't sound at all fabulous (and to me the 845 never fails to sound even more fabulous) until you hit an operating voltage well over the kilovolt. (This has to do with the fact that it draws voltage on the grid and thus goes out of Class A1.) I notice later in this subthread that someone mentions Kondo's SE Ongaku. It is unfortunate that that amp got all the publicity. Peter Q of AudioNote UK told me Kondo's own favourite amp is an all-transformer coupled PP 211 and showed me the circuit of a clearly superior amp.

 However, that is not something a DIYer can copy unless he has his own very competent transformer winder living right there in his pocket. You see, before Kondo is an amp designer, he is a trafo designer. What makes the 211, definitely a second-choice tube to anyone who has ever worked with both the 845 and the 211, a first class tube in Kondo's famed Ongaku is the 20K primary impedance of the output transformer (20K claimed, probably 16K actual). Try buying even a 10K primary transformer off the shelf or from a custom winder and you'd better be sitting down clutching your heart when you hear the price -- if the man wants to speak to you at all.

 These elevated currents and voltages, and playing the result on a Stax, which will ruthlessly reveal the shortcomings of your amp, makes the quality of interstages into a very serious consideration. The biggest commercial interstage I know of is made by Lundahl for using 300B as a driver for bigger tubes. I use smaller Lundahl ISTs and have found them excellent; I also use their outputs and power trafos.

 All the same, even with a source of quality IST, I would not be so keen on the inevitable bandwidth limiting that accompanies ISTs, and especially two or more stages of them to get the big drive voltage for the 845. I had great success with considering the output of my 75W SE SV-572 "Millennium End" SV572-xx amp simply as an output by itself, and driving it with a booster amp consisting of one of my T39 two-stage 417A-300B amps (see my netsite for the T39). A booster amp is a vintage conception for driving transmitting tubes; presumably to remove the really dangerous voltages and currents from the control of the jivehead doper in the mike booth to the control of a qualified engineer (only joking -- it probably had something to do with long lines...). The booster amp in my implementation is a complete amp with its own output transformer; the primary of the output transformer acts as a choke constant-current load on the plate when the booster is used to drive the transmitting tube rather than as an amp in its own right.

 Coming now to the SV572-3 and -10. The -3 has the same sort of drive requirements as an 845 but is worth it. The -10 is easier to work with but less delicate sounding. Both work best near a kilovolt (again, actual operating or quiescent point) but, crucially, do also sound good at a lower voltage around 750-800V. In a circuit first suggested to me by that excellent Australian tubie, Anthony Mills, this permits you to direct-couple say a 417A by the drop over the cathode of the SV-572-3, killing several birds with one stone: no decoupling required on the power line because the entire amp looking in from the power supply is essentially a single stage, no coupling cap to interfere in the sound, no impossible "White" balance adjustments, in other words a build-and-run amp that the customer doesn't need to adjust. The voltage from the cathode of the SV572 is fed to the plate of the 417A through an audio-frequency choke load or silicon pseudo-choke and so the current cannot fluctuate without the need to the sort of regulation that kills the spontaneity of the sound. The reason this works so well with the SV572-xx is that they are rated at 140mA, so there is plenty of operating room for high-current drivers. (Modern 845 are not always as sturdy as the spec might suggest, so you shouldn't put more than 80mA or at a pinch 85mA through them; they are rated 100mA.) The SV572 has another advantage: though very hot, like all these transmitting tubes, it is only the size of a an EL34, whereas the 845 and 211 make monstrous real estate demands both horisontally and vertically.

 Hope this helps. Good luck.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## Crackle

Just swopped to a new regulated 12v supply for my 2050II, couldn't really tell any difference. I let it warm a bit and see if any change.

 However, I checked the voltage of both supplies and the one that came with the phones & amp was kicking out 16V! - I assume that can't be good in the long term.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you enjoying the 4070's? I think they may end up sounding better than the HE 60's if I can find an amp to drive them properly. I can literally turn the volume up all the way on the SRM-727, I know I have good hearing, and I know I am not abusing the volume when I do. It's just weird............................
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I simply love the 4070.
 The O2 have not been touched since I received them 1 1/2 weeks ago, but I tent to prefer them over the Lambda Pro. But most of all they are different (closed back, and more neutral). I'll do a serious comparison when I find time.

 Regarding volume. With the 4070 and 007t I usually listen at 10 o'clock on the knob, and seldom go past 11 o'clock. 12 o'clock is *very* loud!


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Direct drive
_

 

how could that be? the power supply is only 12V..... did they step up the supply voltage inside the amp? Otherwise there is no way to get the high voltage output for the stators.....


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how could that be? the power supply is only 12V..... did they step up the supply voltage inside the amp? Otherwise there is no way to get the high voltage output for the stators.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Voltage multipliers, I'd imagine. It'd explain the huge amount of diodes in there. I think it's a current amplifier anyway, so it shouldn't need a massive B+ supply.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can literally turn the volume up all the way on the SRM-727, I know I have good hearing, and I know I am not abusing the volume when I do. It's just weird............................
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It sounds like your source (CD player, etc.) is not driving the 727 enough. The 727 should have plenty of voltage drive to play the 4070 LOUD! If you do not have another source to try put a line stage preamp between the source and 727. Hope this helps.

 AudioD


----------



## AudioCats

Carl, if I understood it right the voltage multipliers are AC in DC out, While the stator takes high voltage AC music signal.....hundreds of volts of it. Don't think the voltage multiplier will where there.

 The bias can probably be done using voltage multipliers with no problem, that is DC voltage alright.

 Wish someone can produce a picture of the internals so we can guess the circuit layout.....


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carl, if I understood it right the voltage multipliers are AC in DC out, While the stator takes high voltage AC music signal.....hundreds of volts of it. Don't think the voltage multiplier will where there.

 The bias can probably be done using voltage multipliers with no problem, that is DC voltage alright.

 Wish someone can produce a picture of the internals so we can guess the circuit layout....._

 

The high voltage DC is for the high tension supply. The high voltage in the audio signal is created by the transconductance of the FETs being driven into the load.

 There's no way you'd be able to guess the circuit from looking at the board. No way at all. We're not talking about a simple point to point wired triode amp here.


----------



## mingde10467

Are the 4070 earpads roomier than the circular ones on the O2s? Perhaps my ears are just too damn big - - no matter how I adjust the Omegas, the earpads still touch my ears in places. This really detracts from the listening experience.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the 4070 earpads roomier than the circular ones on the O2s? Perhaps my ears are just too damn big - - no matter how I adjust the Omegas, the earpads still touch my ears in places. This really detracts from the listening experience._

 

Hmm, yeah they are. The rectangle shape is closer to that of human ears than the smallish circle is. On the flipside the O2's pads are nicer feeling and the headphone is much less heavy than the 4070.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nah, I meant it needs lots of current, not puts out a lot of current. In terms of Ip the 845 is good, but nothing out of this world._

 

I does need quite a lot of current so the driver tube needs to be up to it. The 572 is a good tube but has ceased production AFIK so I'd rather not base the design on it if somebody is crazy enough to build it as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The main reason I'm leaning towards the 845 besides the qualities of the tube is supply, both of good Chinese tubes and the high end KR stuff along with NOS models. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the Gilmore designs use BJTs similar to the KGSS and the Stax design used 6DJ8s triodes as a split load phase splitter feeding 2SK216 MOSFETs as source followers. I'd imagine Stax used one of their MOSFET-based super shunt power supplies for the B+._

 

I really want to make a new PSU for the Blue Hawaii but all this flip-flop-ing between projects isn't doing me any good. 

 Right now I'm way too fixed on transports and digital cables for my DAS-R1 so I'm not anything else done. It's the same with my Lambda review as for some strange reason I don't want to listen to a Lambda, any Lambda after the SR-Omega arrived... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The high voltage DC is for the high tension supply. The high voltage in the audio signal is created by the transconductance of the FETs being driven into the load.

 There's no way you'd be able to guess the circuit from looking at the board. No way at all. We're not talking about a simple point to point wired triode amp here._

 

Kevin Gilmore did retrace the circuit and post it here. You should be able to find it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 845 is God's own tube. It has that smoky, oh so right sound of the AM jazz stations you could still hear in the American back country when I was a student. By comparison the 211 is dry as dust. An in-between DHT transmitter type, if you can still get some, is Svetlana's SV572-3 and -10 (the -30 is brutish and the -160 is a triode with a pentode transfer function).

 However, the 845 has its own problems on the way to achieving that sound. For a start, its lowest sweet spot is 960V operating; if you have auto bias, that means you have to deliver 1110V plus to the plate. A sweeter operating hotspot is 1040V. Then you have to find 150V minimum of signal voltage which means at least two stages of voltage amplification. Then you have to do the elevated signal with a driver tube which can take 20mA on its plate or the Miller capacitance will destroy the bandwidth. There are guides on my netsite in The KISS Amp section for calculating these numbers but I no longer publish kilovolt designs because I don't want the lives of amateurs on my conscience; 300B amps are dangerous enough!

 Let me stress, for clarity of mind all round, that to operate any of these kilovolt-plus transmitting tubes at all correctly, you will be working with a power supply putting out DC in the 1400-1500V range with more than enough current to kill you instantly. Up there you have to know what you're doing in both procedures and parts. Where will you find a meter that measures that high? Where will you get suitable resistors? Check the voltage ratings.

 The 211 makes even more stringent demands. Its only advantage is a lower signal demand. The 211 doesn't sound at all fabulous (and to me the 845 never fails to sound even more fabulous) until you hit an operating voltage well over the kilovolt. (This has to do with the fact that it draws voltage on the grid and thus goes out of Class A1.) I notice later in this subthread that someone mentions Kondo's SE Ongaku. It is unfortunate that that amp got all the publicity. Peter Q of AudioNote UK told me Kondo's own favourite amp is an all-transformer coupled PP 211 and showed me the circuit of a clearly superior amp.

 However, that is not something a DIYer can copy unless he has his own very competent transformer winder living right there in his pocket. You see, before Kondo is an amp designer, he is a trafo designer. What makes the 211, definitely a second-choice tube to anyone who has ever worked with both the 845 and the 211, a first class tube in Kondo's famed Ongaku is the 20K primary impedance of the output transformer (20K claimed, probably 16K actual). Try buying even a 10K primary transformer off the shelf or from a custom winder and you'd better be sitting down clutching your heart when you hear the price -- if the man wants to speak to you at all.

 These elevated currents and voltages, and playing the result on a Stax, which will ruthlessly reveal the shortcomings of your amp, makes the quality of interstages into a very serious consideration. The biggest commercial interstage I know of is made by Lundahl for using 300B as a driver for bigger tubes. I use smaller Lundahl ISTs and have found them excellent; I also use their outputs and power trafos.

 All the same, even with a source of quality IST, I would not be so keen on the inevitable bandwidth limiting that accompanies ISTs, and especially two or more stages of them to get the big drive voltage for the 845. I had great success with considering the output of my 75W SE SV-572 "Millennium End" SV572-xx amp simply as an output by itself, and driving it with a booster amp consisting of one of my T39 two-stage 417A-300B amps (see my netsite for the T39). A booster amp is a vintage conception for driving transmitting tubes; presumably to remove the really dangerous voltages and currents from the control of the jivehead doper in the mike booth to the control of a qualified engineer (only joking -- it probably had something to do with long lines...). The booster amp in my implementation is a complete amp with its own output transformer; the primary of the output transformer acts as a choke constant-current load on the plate when the booster is used to drive the transmitting tube rather than as an amp in its own right.

 Coming now to the SV572-3 and -10. The -3 has the same sort of drive requirements as an 845 but is worth it. The -10 is easier to work with but less delicate sounding. Both work best near a kilovolt (again, actual operating or quiescent point) but, crucially, do also sound good at a lower voltage around 750-800V. In a circuit first suggested to me by that excellent Australian tubie, Anthony Mills, this permits you to direct-couple say a 417A by the drop over the cathode of the SV-572-3, killing several birds with one stone: no decoupling required on the power line because the entire amp looking in from the power supply is essentially a single stage, no coupling cap to interfere in the sound, no impossible "White" balance adjustments, in other words a build-and-run amp that the customer doesn't need to adjust. The voltage from the cathode of the SV572 is fed to the plate of the 417A through an audio-frequency choke load or silicon pseudo-choke and so the current cannot fluctuate without the need to the sort of regulation that kills the spontaneity of the sound. The reason this works so well with the SV572-xx is that they are rated at 140mA, so there is plenty of operating room for high-current drivers. (Modern 845 are not always as sturdy as the spec might suggest, so you shouldn't put more than 80mA or at a pinch 85mA through them; they are rated 100mA.) The SV572 has another advantage: though very hot, like all these transmitting tubes, it is only the size of a an EL34, whereas the 845 and 211 make monstrous real estate demands both horisontally and vertically.

 Hope this helps. Good luck.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review_

 

Thanks a lot for that. It is some very good food for thought. 

 I'm not too worried about the voltage as I have plenty of experience working with HV and as long as I follow the basic rules I'll be fine. I will make all the wiring so I can control the insulation easily but the resistors can be a problem. I can't remember what the AN tantalums are rated at but I'll use them extensively. 

 Kondo was indeed good at taking things well beyond their normal potential by understanding that every little bit inside the amp and out does matter. I hope the man he chose as his successor manages to carry on the torch. 

 For IST's I'd most likely use vintage/new Tango or Tamura but Lundahl is also very good. Tamura does make a whole line of transformers for the 845, including IST's. It is pretty easy for me to have customs made for me but they aren't cheap not that price is really a factor. 

 Btw. Have you ever modified any of your amps for Stax phones? The 300b should be very nice


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Kevin Gilmore did retrace the circuit and post it here. You should be able to find it. 
_

 






 really? How do I find it? where do I search? 

 Help! 

 and thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 really? How do I find it? where do I search? 

 Help! 

 and thanks!_

 

Looks like it isn't online any more. I think I saved it but I'll have to look.

 Edit: Here it is, I hope Kevin doesn't mind.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I also did try the SR-001MKII system and as much as I did like the sound I found them very inconfortable.

 Pierre_

 

I am not sure if this is the problem with these phones, but I am surprised at the number of people who try them and don't realize that the metal headband can be bent to reduce the pressure of the ear inserts of these phones. When I got my first pair it was like torture until I bent the band back a bit.


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks Birgir, thanks Carl..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that is kind of a strange circuit though....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went to a local Stax dealer today and had the opportunity to listen to a SRS-2050II system... OMG, what a blast! I really loved the sound. They are going to be mine in a near futur 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

The SRS-2050 sure is a great introductory rig, which will lead you the way into the world of electrostatic headphones.
 When you get one you are more than welcome to join _Team Stax_. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mingde10467* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the 4070 earpads roomier than the circular ones on the O2s? Perhaps my ears are just too damn big - - no matter how I adjust the Omegas, the earpads still touch my ears in places. This really detracts from the listening experience._

 

Yes. There are more space inside the 4070 pads, since their shape are a better fit for the shape of the human ear than the oval O2 one.

 That said I find both of them to have plenty of space for my ears. I can wear them without any of the earpads toughing my ears. Guess I have a small set of ears.. he he


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not sure if this is the problem with these phones, but I am surprised at the number of people who try them and don't realize that the metal headband can be bent to reduce the pressure of the ear inserts of these phones. When I got my first pair it was like torture until I bent the band back a bit._

 

Try to bend the metal band, try the smaller pads and even let them just rest on the outside of the ear canals are a few tricks. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Birgir, thanks Carl..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that is kind of a strange circuit though...._

 

Happy to help. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The circuit is very strange but strange is Koss's middle name. Very high drive voltages though...


----------



## scompton

I just got a NAD 3155 for $20 at Goodwill. I want to try it driving my SR-5 and SR-40 instead of the SI Super T. It has a switch on the back for speaker impedance of 4 ohms or 8 ohms. Which should it be set to for the SRD-7 and SRD-4?

 Edit: BTW the headphone out is fantastic.


----------



## ironbut

Now that we got the Koss schematic out there, does anybody have or know where to find the 007t circuit? I did some pretty extensive searching but came back empty.


----------



## Petyot

Hi,

 What would be considered a "good" or "fair" price for a used-but-in-excellent-condition SRS-2020 ? Is $400 too much ?

 BTW, this would be a 100V model so I would need to buy an adaptator (and I have no idea where to find one and how much it could cost).

 Thanks for your help.

 Pierre


----------



## Duggeh

I paid £210 for my set and £200 for my dads. Thats about $400 and I think that the set is worth every penny.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that we got the Koss schematic out there, does anybody have or know where to find the 007t circuit? I did some pretty extensive searching but came back empty._

 

Stax are really secretive with schematics, it's annoying. Good luck finding the 007t's one.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 What would be considered a "good" or "fair" price for a used-but-in-excellent-condition SRS-2020 ? Is $400 too much ?

 BTW, this would be a 100V model so I would need to buy an adaptator (and I have no idea where to find one and how much it could cost).

 Thanks for your help.

 Pierre_

 

They street for around $340 in Japan and cost about $540 from Audio Cubes. Second hand an in good nick $400 is acceptable, but I'd email Price Japan and Eifl to see what kind of deal they could give you on a new set first.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be considered a "good" or "fair" price for a used-but-in-excellent-condition SRS-2020 ? Is $400 too much ?_

 

$400 is acceptable for a excellent condition system.
 But beware that a new SRS-2050 system (the 2020 successor) can be had new for $430 from PriceJapan.


----------



## spritzer

I hate to admit it but the SR-Omega are the most comfortable headphones ever made, even better then the SR-007. I've used them for almost 9 hours straight without any fatigue and I only had to stop because of this stupid sleep thing, cuts way to much into my listening time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Their touch is so light, yet firm you hardly notice them and the earpads are much bigger then the ears so they won't touch. The SR-007 fits me like a glove but they are firmly fixed on the head and sweat will buildup even up here in the cold north. The pads are smaller internally (the earcups are smaller as well) but they are much softer and use better leather. The He90 barely fits me since there isn't much range on the headband but I've found the right spot at the right angle and they are quite comfy there and the leather is so nice!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that we got the Koss schematic out there, does anybody have or know where to find the 007t circuit? I did some pretty extensive searching but came back empty._

 

Like Carl said they are very secretive about the schematics and don't even want the users to know how to bias the units. You could always just draw it up but that's not really a good way to spend an afternoon...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could always just draw it up but that's not really a good way to spend an afternoon... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

*Looks at my SRA-7S schematic*


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Looks at my SRA-7S schematic* 




_

 

Me want....


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Me want.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I need to redraw it, then I'll post it up. Currently it's so messy it'd make Kevin Gilmore blush.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to redraw it, then I'll post it up. Currently it's so messy it'd make Kevin Gilmore blush._

 

LOL!!!!

 With all of these amp projects and my need for a new source I'll have to work more or give my self a raise. I don't think the family would be very happy with that though...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Omega/Blue Hawaii sings like there is no tomorrow. According to the specs the SR-O is actually even more power hungry then it's younger brother but it isn't true in reality as the O2 needs another 3 steps on the attenuators._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hate to admit it but the SR-Omega are the most comfortable headphones ever made, even better then the SR-007._

 

Damn you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 All your positive talk about the SR-Omega certainly have strengthened my eager for a pair.
 Hopefully I don't have to wait several years before the next $1700  SR-Omega show up.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 All your positive talk about the SR-Omega certainly have strengthened my eager for a pair.
 Hopefully I don't have to wait several years before the next $1700  SR-Omega show up._

 

And another one bites the dust. The sad thing is I actually have enough money right now to pay for a SR-Ω, but by the time opportunity knocks I'll probably have spent it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 All your positive talk about the SR-Omega certainly have strengthened my eager for a pair.
 Hopefully I don't have to wait several years before the next $1700  SR-Omega show up._

 

Just performing a service... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There will be others but it's not this is going to be my only SR-Omega. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What made this deal even better was the fact that on the day the wire transfer went through the ISK (krona) was the strongest it has been for a long time so I paid even less...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And another one bites the dust. The sad thing is I actually have enough money right now to pay for a SR-Ω, but by the time opportunity knocks I'll probably have spent it._

 

When normal people have a separate bank account for emergencies I have one for rare audio deals. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It won't last long if I find an Esoteric P-0 any time soon...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When normal people have a separate bank account for emergencies I have one for rare audio deals. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It won't last long if I find an Esoteric P-0 any time soon..._

 

I have enough trouble keeping money in one bank account, let alone two.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And another one bites the dust. The sad thing is I actually have enough money right now to pay for a SR-Ω, but by the time opportunity knocks I'll probably have spent it._

 

I have been looking at the SR-Omega for a long time. But the price tag of the previous 3 sales ($3600, $3650 and ~$4000) pushed me away from them. But now with this sale at $1700 I see that its possible to get a hold of a pair for a reasonable amount of money.

 Money is not really an object since I could easily cash out multiple SR-Omega's. But I certainly don't intend to overpay. 
 So I will keep my eyes open.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There will be others but it's not this is going to be my only SR-Omega. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Care to share where/how you find all those SR-Omega's?
 You know I want a pair as well!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have enough trouble keeping money in one bank account, let alone two._

 

Just let the bank do it for you and never check how much is in it. I know it is hard... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All these different projects are really draining the resources. Why can't I be like most people and be happy with a single system centered around a single headphone... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been looking at the SR-Omega for a long time. But the price tag of the previous 3 sales ($3600, $3650 and ~$4000) pushed me away from them.
 But now with this sale at $1700 I see that its possible to get a hold of a pair for a reasonable amount of money.

 So I will keep my eyes open._

 

The 4000$ price isn't anywhere near the normal market price. For that money I'd much rather buy a Blue Hawaii. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Care to share where/how you find all those SR-Omega's?
 You know I want a pair as well! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Everybody without any financial sense and no real worries about their expensive stuff dieing on them wants one. Still they are pretty close to the SR-007 both in tonality and performance so you'll have to choose whether they are worth it for you. I'm just an insane collector that can't seem to buy just a single unit of anything...

 I've been doing this for about 5 years and have seen dozens up for sale and even the same headphones a couple of times. Yahoo.Jp is a good resource as well as Germany. There were some imported into the US but nothing compared with Germany.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just let the bank do it for you and never check how much is in it. I know it is hard... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

NZ has some of the highest interest rates in the developed world, so that probably wouldn't be a very good idea....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NZ has some of the highest interest rates in the developed world, so that probably wouldn't be a very good idea...._

 

I think it is actually worse here. The economy has exploded in the last 7 years and there are drastic measures in use to lower the inflation. This is on top of Iceland being the most expensive country to live in, in the world. It's even more expensive then Norway... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 still the money is used well and it is worth it in the end.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it is actually worse here. The economy has exploded in the last 7 years and there are drastic measures in use to lower the inflation. This is on top of Iceland being the most expensive country to live in, in the world. It's even more expensive then Norway... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 still the money is used well and it is worth it in the end._

 

Just did a quick bit of research, and it seems like our economies are pretty similar excepting that wages and the cost of living are both lower here. Your 14.25% interest rates makes our 8.25% seem almost paltry by comparison.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just did a quick bit of research, and it seems like our economies are pretty similar excepting that wages and the cost of living are both lower here. Your 14.25% interest rates makes our 8.25% seem almost paltry by comparison._

 

The high interest rates are there for a reason to keep the economy in check and prevent inflation. There is so much money floating around and so much construction that people have lost sight of reality. There is a bit of an uproar here now because the government decided against a 1.3 billon US$ 18km long underwater tunnel to an island which only 4000 people live on through the most active volcanic region here. The island was completely evacuated in 1973 because lava started to pour out just outside of the town. It has been done but that was in Japan and they have just a bit more money then we do...


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NZ has some of the highest interest rates in the developed world, so that probably wouldn't be a very good idea...._

 

What? NZ is part of the developed world?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4000$ price isn't anywhere near the normal market price. For that money I'd much rather buy a Blue Hawaii._

 

I hear you.
 But from following the mentioned 3 previous sales this year, who all were in the $3600-4000 region, its hard to imagine that their actual market price are $1500-2000. I know now better!

  Quote:


 Everybody without any financial sense and no real worries about their expensive stuff dieing on them wants one. Still they are pretty close to the SR-007 both in tonality and performance so you'll have to choose whether they are worth it for you. 
 

I say they are worth it for me.
 If I can find a well taken cared of pair for a sane price (less than $2000) that is. I know they are 13-14 years old, but since Stax 'phones are long lasting I am not afraid of having a pair dying on me. 
  Quote:


 I've been doing this for about 5 years and have seen dozens up for sale and even the same headphones a couple of times. Yahoo.Jp is a good resource as well as Germany. There were some imported into the US but nothing compared with Germany. 
 

Well, I have seen some as well. Including the pair that was up for sale 3 times in a couple of months. 
 I already have my eyes on eBay.de, but will check out Yahoo.jp


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The high interest rates are there for a reason to keep the economy in check and prevent inflation._

 

That's the theory at least. Interest rate hikes really don't seem to work very well at stopping inflation here (probably because the banks are all foreign owned and can use foreign funds that bypass the reserve bank), but they keep on raising them anyway.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What? NZ is part of the developed world?_

 

Ostensibly.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear you.
 But from following the mentioned 3 previous sales this year, who all were in the $3600-4000 region, its hard to imagine that their actual market price are $1500-2000. I know now better!_

 

In a limited economy like this prices will always rise beyond the market norm. It can happen in Japan as well but there are also crazy collectors that stop at nothing to get what they want. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I say they are worth it for me.
 If I can find a well taken cared of pair for a sane price (less than $2000) that is. I know they are 13-14 years old, but since Stax 'phones are long lasting I am not afraid of having a pair dying on me. 
 Well, I have seen some as well. Including the pair that was up for sale 3 times in a couple of months._

 

They are actually not as well built and long lasting as the rest of the Stax lineup. It is partially due to the stator material as it is very flexible they used a cartwheel support mechanism on the outside of each stator and it is glued to it. This glue will fail over time and cause the driver to collapse in on it self. It is very hard to rebuild it properly as even a small glue residue can cause channel imbalance and other nasty things. There are plenty of broken SR-Omegas out there and no way to fix them. I'd like to try (so send me any broken units, I'll pay a lot for them) but it won't be easy. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the theory at least. Interest rate hikes really don't seem to work very well at stopping inflation here (probably because the banks are all foreign owned and can use foreign funds that bypass the reserve bank), but they keep on raising them anyway._

 

That is a nasty loophole. The banks were state owned until about 6 years ago and there are strict regulations on who gets to own them. Still it's not like they are loosing money on this because the profits they post are astronomical.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In a limited economy like this prices will always rise beyond the market norm. It can happen in Japan as well but there are also crazy collectors that stop at nothing to get what they want._

 

Well spoken.
 Some crazy collectors sure tend to drive up a headphones current going price, which sadly drive the rest of the market with them. Resulting in that some sell for double the marked value, compared to other ones who sell for their "regular" price... Oh well!

  Quote:


 They are actually not as well built and long lasting as the rest of the Stax lineup. It is partially due to the stator material as it is very flexible they used a cartwheel support mechanism on the outside of each stator and it is glued to it. This glue will fail over time and cause the driver to collapse in on it self. It is very hard to rebuild it properly as even a small glue residue can cause channel imbalance and other nasty things. There are plenty of broken SR-Omegas out there and no way to fix them. I'd like to try (so send me any broken units, I'll pay a lot for them) but it won't be easy. 
 

Seems like I have missed a class or two.
 Cause I though the SR-Omega had the same sturdy build quality as the rest of the Stax line from the same time frame. But I now understand that their driver build quality are nowhere near the ones of the Lambda series, where most still go strong after 15-20 years.

 Then its certainly a risk buying a pair.


----------



## JecklinStax

Does anyone know where I could order this Hirschmann 5 pole plug for a Jecklin electrostatic?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well spoken.
 Some crazy collectors sure tend to drive up a headphones current going price, which sadly drive the rest of the market with them. Resulting in that some sell for double the marked value, compared to other ones who sell for their "regular" price... Oh well!_

 

Not that I am a crazy collector or anything... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems like I have missed a class or two.
 Cause I though the SR-Omega had the same sturdy build quality as the rest of the Stax line from the same time frame. But I now understand that their driver build quality are nowhere near the ones of the Lambda series, where most still go strong after 15-20 years.

 Then its certainly a risk buying a pair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The housing is pretty sturdy but I've been under the impression that they were a bit rushed into production after all the Orpheus was released a bit earlier. It is obvious that the new (and IMO inferior) headband was in development as it is released in 1994 with the Nova series and it was probably meant for the Omega as well. The extra addition to the arc on the Omega changes its function somewhat so it is a simple quick fix for a rushed release. The drivers were an untested size and build technique and while they were ready Stax modified them over the build period so they knew something was wrong with the design. There are other small issues like how the detachable cable interfaces with the driver but it is a minor concern. 

 The Lambdas are built on the Sigma drivers that are extremely well built because if you drop the phones the drivers can break free and bounce around. They are enclosed in an extra casing just because of this. 

 The risk is simple, if they break, Stax will only replace the driver with the SR-007 units and that costs a lot. It is certainly more then 1000$ just for the drivers. They won't even try to repair the originals as the new drivers are, according to them, better.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not that I am a crazy collector or anything... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Of course not! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 The housing is pretty sturdy but I've been under the impression that they were a bit rushed into production after all the Orpheus was released a bit earlier.

 *snip*

 The risk is simple, if they break, Stax will only replace the driver with the SR-007 units and that costs a lot. It is certainly more then 1000$ just for the drivers. They won't even try to repair the originals as the new drivers are, according to them, better. 
 

Now I get it...
 Stax felt the pressure from Sennheiser and their newly released Orpheus system, and to get a product on the market they rushed out the SR-Omega. Ending up with a classical and great sounding headphone, but with a driver quality that obviously could have been better if they had spent some more time with it.

 An SR-Omega/007 hybrid might be fun. But it take most of they joy away, since they would no longer be stock or have the same sound signature. Let alone spending $2000 on an SR-Omega, then an extra $1000+ to replace the drivers.

 Another god reason not to pay insane money for these headphones.
 Hmmm....


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know where I could order this Hirschmann 5 pole plug for a Jecklin electrostatic?_

 

Hirschmann no longer make the 6 prong connector and havent for some time. Short of gobbling one from the used market where it will be attatched to something else, your best bet would be to contact Martin Durrenmatt at Precide. They have a remaining supply of the connectors and are continuing to use them for the Ergo AMT. 

 I can only assume that they will switch to 4pin XLR upon the evaporation of their stock.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know where I could order this Hirschmann 5 pole plug for a Jecklin electrostatic?_

 

I've never found any place that has them but I don't know the part number so that makes it a bit harder. It is quite a common connector so it should be easy to find. If not I'd just switch over to some Fisher unit

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Of course not! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think that I can only loose the crazy collector status by selling some of my stash. I'm receiving a second SR-X mk2 and since I'll probably never use one the other must go. Same goes for almost all of my duplicates. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I get it...
 Stax felt the pressure from Sennheiser and their newly released Orpheus system, and to get a product on the market they rushed out the SR-Omega. Ending up with a classical and great sounding headphone, but with a driver quality that obviously could have been better if they had spent some more time with it.

 An SR-Omega/007 hybrid might be fun. But it take most of they joy away, since they would no longer be stock or have the same sound signature.
 Let alone spending $2000 on an SR-Omega, then an extra $1000+ to replace the drivers.

 Hmmm...._

 

That is my theory at least. I don't think that Stax was threatened by the Orpheus but felt that they could loose the position as the market leader if they wouldn't follow suit and release a statement product. The result was a great headphone that is easily a match for the He90 but it isn't as "together" as the SR-007. 

 The driver is good but is prone to fail especially due to shock so they tried to remedy it by replacing the plastic cartwheel support by an aluminum one but it was too late for the company and they soon ceased production. New Stax took what they had learned from the O1 and put it to good use with the O2. The driver is cased in milled plastic instead of molded and the driver is smaller so no spacer is necessary with very strong stators that have excelent conductivity. The housing is still milled aluminum but it is stronger and more functional then pretty. The arc assembly is basically the same design used in the SR-1 so I guess it was more of a homage to the original design and then the later Sigma arc design. 

 It is a huge risk to buy them and that can't be overlooked. Any He90 can still be serviced by Sennheiser and they will probably do that for the distant future as they have their own problems so you aren't just stuck with a very nice doorstop.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that I can only loose the crazy collector status by selling some of my stash. I'm receiving a second SR-X mk2 and since I'll probably never use one the other must go. Same goes for almost all of my duplicates._

 

I know the feeling.
 I have two pair of Lambda Pro's and SR-X/MK3's, and admit that I have no real use for more than one pair of each model. But you have far more electrostatic headphones than me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 It is a huge risk to buy them and that can't be overlooked. Any He90 can still be serviced by Sennheiser and they will probably do that for the distant future as they have their own problems so you aren't just stuck with a very nice doorstop. 
 

I now understand the full risk involved in buying an SR-Omega. But I still can't get them out of my mind.
 Must resist, must resist, must resist! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the marked value of the Sennheiser HE90 were a bit lower I might have taken a look into them. But $6-7000 for a pair of headphones are imo insane!
 But hopefully Sennheiser come up with a new state-of-the-art headphone some day, with a more sane price tag.


----------



## Petyot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$400 is acceptable for a excellent condition system.
 But beware that a new SRS-2050 system (the 2020 successor) can be had new for $430 from PriceJapan._

 

Thanks to all of you for the price information. Is it hard to find an adaptator to convert the 100V to 110V ? Anything special to look at before buying such kind of adaptator ?

 I am very excited at the idea of getting a Stax system !

 Thanks again.

 Pierre


----------



## Afrikane

Kai, I am one of those that paid a Head-fi price for a SR-Ω, my first and foremost reason was that this pair was in certifiable A+ condition, the second reason is patience, I don't have any and last but not least, it is hard to get a seller to take you seriously when you are from Africa, here on Head-fi I am a known quantity. So, my sincere apologies for causing a bit of SR-Ω price inflation but my options were limited. Keep hunting, they are worth it.
 Birgir, do you think there is a significant chance that many of the previous SR-Ω listings actually had O2 stators in them?


----------



## JecklinStax

Thanks Duggeh & Spritzer. I'll try the Precide route first. And yes, it has 6, not 5 pins. I just _know_ I'll be able to count one day, given enough time.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, do you think there is a significant chance that many of the previous SR-Ω listings actually had O2 stators in them?_

 

The number of SR-Ωs with O2 drivers would be in single digits.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know the feeling.
 I have two pair of Lambda Pro's and SR-X/MK3's, and admit that I have no real use for more than one pair of each model. But you have far more electrostatic headphones than me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Guilty as charged... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I now understand the full risk involved in buying an SR-Omega. But I still can't get them out of my mind.
 Must resist, must resist, must resist! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the marked value of the Sennheiser HE90 were a bit lower I might have taken a look into them. But $6-7000 for a pair of headphones are imo insane!
 But hopefully Sennheiser come up with a new state-of-the-art headphone some day, with a more sane price tag._

 

Try around 10k these days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I believe people should know the risks involved so I'm not deterring you from finding a set but it can be a bumpy ride. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai, I am one of those that paid a Head-fi price for a SR-Ω, my first and foremost reason was that this pair was in certifiable A+ condition, the second reason is patience, I don't have any and last but not least, it is hard to get a seller to take you seriously when you are from Africa, here on Head-fi I am a known quantity. So, my sincere apologies for causing a bit of SR-Ω price inflation but my options were limited. Keep hunting, they are worth it.
 Birgir, do you think there is a significant chance that many of the previous SR-Ω listings actually had O2 stators in them?_

 

I came very close at some points to pay the extra so you aren't alone. Patience isn't really my strong point either. 

 I doubt any with SR-007 driver would have gone under the radar. It is easy to spot as there isn't the visible cartwheel and it looks just like the SR-007 from the outside.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JecklinStax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Duggeh & Spritzer. I'll try the Precide route first. And yes, it has 6, not 5 pins. I just know I'll be able to count one day, given enough time._

 

Counting is overrated... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The number of SR-Ωs with O2 drivers would be in single digits._

 

I agree but more and more are failing so that number will rise. 

 Now it's picture time as I just tripped off the earpads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Here is how they look with the earpads removed. Lovely construction and there is a little sticker that is possibly the date they were assembled. 




 29.8.94 so they are almost 13 years old. Very cool





 Here you can see the difference in texture between the original and NOS pads. The originals are very smooth and only give a bit less then the unused NOS set. The NOS set is a bit coarser but it isn't a big difference. Construction quality isn't very good since sample consistency isn't very good.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to all of you for the price information. Is it hard to find an adaptator to convert the 100V to 110V ? Anything special to look at before buying such kind of adaptator ?

 I am very excited at the idea of getting a Stax system !_

 

The system use an external AC adapter. Meaning that the SRM-252II amplifier have a 12 volt connector, and that you can use a local 110v to 12v adapter. Just beware that the + and - on the connector are wired the same.

 More info here: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRS2050II.html

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai, I am one of those that paid a Head-fi price for a SR-Ω, my first and foremost reason was that this pair was in certifiable A+ condition, the second reason is patience, I don't have any and last but not least, it is hard to get a seller to take you seriously when you are from Africa, here on Head-fi I am a known quantity. So, my sincere apologies for causing a bit of SR-Ω price inflation but my options were limited. Keep hunting, they are worth it._

 

No need to be sorry!
 I fully understand that some people (because impatience or located in Africa) feel the need of paying well above market price to get a hold of their gear. With the sad result, especially for rare products like the SR-Omega, this that people (like me) think the marked price have gone up. Even if that might be the correct...

 I'll keep on hunting. Eventually it might be my turn to score an SR-Omega. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Birgir, do you think there is a significant chance that many of the previous SR-Ω listings actually had O2 stators in them? 
 

Hopefully they are in the low numbers.
 Or at least that the eventual seller are 100% open that they are *not* the real deal!


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guilty as charged... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, I feel a bit guilty! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


 Try around 10k these days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Even worse!
 They seem to go higher in price every time I see them mentioned.

  Quote:


 I believe people should know the risks involved so I'm not deterring you from finding a set but it can be a bumpy ride. 
 

I thanks you for sharing your knowledge about the potential SR-Omega problems with me/us. 
 Great to be aware of the potential issues before I go all the way.

  Quote:


 I came very close at some points to pay the extra so you aren't alone. Patience isn't really my strong point either. 
 

Well, I have to admit that patience is not my strong point either. But with a potential $2000+ saving on a pair of headphones it sure is easier to stay strong.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I have to admit that patience is not my strong point either._

 

Hurrah for having no patience.


 WE WANT IT NOW~!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hopefully they are in the low numbers.
 Or at least that the eventual seller are 100% open that they are *not* the real deal!_

 

If anybody is unsure about their model, just post a picture of the outside and we can tell you. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even worse!
 They seem to go higher in price every time I see them mentioned._

 

It's crazy but this should prove to the headphone manufacturers that there is a market for high-end models and especially electrostatic since we are a very loyal bunch.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_especially electrostatic since we are a very loyal bunch._

 

Meaning we buy all of them? Well, I'm not necessarily disagreeing...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hurrah for having no patience.

 WE WANT IT NOW~!_

 

We will have to wait and see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anybody is unsure about their model, just post a picture of the outside and we can tell you._

 

As you say, the cartwheel will be missing if the driver have been replace with SR-007 ones. So I can easily spot it myself, from a outside picture.

  Quote:


 It's crazy but this should prove to the headphone manufacturers that there is a market for high-end models and especially electrostatic since we are a very loyal bunch. 
 

Lets hope so!
 Cause its a shame that most of the high-end models are no longer in production. Hopefully some of the manufacturers (ex. Sennheiser, Sony and AKG) see the demand and start developing phones on par with their best from the past.
 Crossing fingers!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Meaning we buy all of them? Well, I'm not necessarily disagreeing..._

 

Of course you aren't since you know it is true... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We need something that doesn't sound like it is made by Stax...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As you say, the cartwheel will be missing if the driver have been replace with SR-007 ones. So I can easily spot it myself, from a outside picture._

 

It will look just like a SR-007 when you look through the grill but they leave the black rubber sponge in place that supports the outer grill. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lets hope so!
 Cause its a shame that most of the high-end models are no longer in production. Hopefully some of the manufacturers (ex. Sennheiser, Sony and AKG) see the demand and start developing phones on par with their best from the past._

 

While I don't want another Orpheus I think it would be a good move for them. Statement products always increase sales in other products and are a great tool for development.


----------



## krmathis

My plan was to spend some time with the 4070, then post some impression.
 I have now spent two weeks with them, and feel that I have gotten to know them pretty well.

 Carl have already posted lots of listening impressions of the 4070, in his STAX 4070 GET thread, and I am with him on most parts. So to keep it short and not repeat everything he wrote I decide to write short summary.
 Mostly referring to the SR-007 as a comparison.

 Here it comes:
 * They have a brighter sound character than the SR-007. Probably caused by the a bump in the upper midrange, which seems to be present on most (all?) Lambda 'phones.
 * Might have the most accurate bass I have ever heard. Don't stretch as far down as the SR-007, but its very neutral. It don't add or retract anything.
 * The attack, in both bass and midrange, is stunning. It attack you harder than any other headphone I have ever heard, including the SR-007 and dynamic headphones. This is probably caused by the closed-back construction..
 * Its very resolving, showing you even the smallest nuance in pitch or tone. Guess its called "Monitor" for a reason.
 * Efficiency almost equal to the SR-007. Same volume setting on the 007t give almost identical sound level on the 4070 and SR-007. Noticeable less efficient than the Lambda Pro (and hence probably SR-404 that it share drivers with).
 * They are just awesome on Jazz!

 All in all a very accurate and neutral pair of headphones.
 Not on par with the SR-007 when it comes to be a complete musical reproducer. But it clearly have its forté...


 I enjoy them a LOT!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same volume setting on the 007t give almost identical sound level on the 4070 and SR-007. Noticeable less efficient than the SR-404 that it share drivers with.
 * They are just awesome on Jazz!
_

 

I am more curious about the comparison with the 404. Why would efficiency be less. Is there a back-wave cancelling some sound? My Sigma/404 is less efficient than a 404 but that is because the transducer is backed off from the ear and the cup is not sealed around the ear like the 404. 

 And does it sound very different from the 404 tonally.


----------



## Carl

On top of the backwave, there's a lot of foam backing and the thing is ported. Kai is pretty much spot on when he says the volume control needs to be about the same as with the O2s, although the 4070 needs much less voltage drive.


----------



## krmathis

edstrelow. I just re-wrote that part.
 I have previously compared the Lambda Pro (which I own) against the SR-404 (at the local dealer), and found them to be very close. Both in sound and efficiency.
 My new statement say: "_Noticeable less efficient than the Lambda Pro (and hence probably SR-404 that it share drivers with)_" Which are more correct, since I have not done a point to point comparison between the 4070 and the SR-404.

 I figure the closed-back construction, damping and ported enclosure, affected the efficiency in a negative way. Making them harder to drive.


----------



## Downrange

Glad to hear you like them, Kai. Sounds like a nice 'phone.
 I hope to hear some one day.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to hear you like them, Kai. Sounds like a nice 'phone.
 I hope to hear some one day._

 

Yes, I really do like the 4070.
 I really did not know that I "needed" a pair of closed headphones until I received these. They are great for low sound level daytime listening, when there are some background (outdoor) noise.

 You should definitely check them out if you ever get the chance.


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. Have you ever modified any of your amps for Stax phones? The 300b should be very nice_

 

Balanced push-pull 300B workalike from the KR range, just because I had quad sitting on my desk when the thought entered my mind. I tried the O2, 404 and 202. All of these earspeakers sound more impressive on the 300B than on the 007t and the 2050. More impressive here means more imposing. I don't want my music to sound grand, I want it to sound realistic, so I moved on. 

 However, your model and expectation is different from mine. I believe you will be stunned by the quality of the sound you can get from the 845 into your earspeakers. One of the three biggest thrills I ever had in tubes was the day I switched on my first 845 amp; everyone should hear an 845 amp on electrostats at least once before they die.

 There is a world beyond the Stax tube amps. How far you need to go is a matter of opinion and taste. If your aspiration is the window on the concert hall, then you need go no further than 6SL7 and 6SN7; in a competently designed amp they provide the closest approach to realism of all the tubes I have mentioned in this discussion, so that anything bigger is simply current overkill. If your aspiration is the maximum extreme of everything -- bass, treble, massive dynamics -- than trioded EL34 beckon, and beyond that 300B and 845.

 This is the first time I've ever known audio realism to demand the most economical of the possible tube topologies to do the job!

 If maximum hedonism is your dream, you should drive the 845 with a 300B or at least a triode-tied EL34 for both the obvious technical reasons I described earlier and for euphoric satisfaction: those tubes have synergy. 

 For inky micro-dynamic silence, it would probably be smart to go over to balanced working as soon as possible, all the way back to your DAC if you can, otherwise from the inputs of your headphone amp; though I long since stopped bothering with balanced working on amps for my floorstanding stats (I drive them with Class A1 PP amps, and monstrous SE amps, and silicon amps), I was very impressed by the improvement balanced working makes if you wear your stats on your head, right up close to your ears: it isn't just the music you bring closer, it is the quality of the silences as well.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review


----------



## cosmopragma

Fortunately I currently don't have a desire for exotic direct drive amps but like to experiment with different loudspeaker amps through SRD 7 transformers.
 Could anyone of the gentlemen in the know tell me what level of DC offset is acceptable?


----------



## Fitz

What was Stax thinking with the cable on the SR-X/Mk3? I just put a new connector on the end of mine because it was cutting in and out, and that has to easily be the crummiest wire I've ever worked with. Talk about an exercise in patience, definitely not something I should've been doing at 2 in the morning.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* 
_Could anyone .. tell me what level of DC offset is acceptable?_

 

Since DC won't go through a transformer, any amount of offset the amp feels like generating should be fine, as far as the 'phones are concerned. The amp, however, is most likely to be happier with the minimum amount of DC offset. What's your setup?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

_

 

Since the only amplification inside is a current follower, can't you add a jack there so you can by-pass the inbox amp and use a high power dynamic headphone amp to drive the multiplier circuit? The jack will switch back to the original config and use the internal amp when you unplug the signal input (from external headphone amp). Should improve the sound a bit?

 I bet it will be easier than trying to upgrade the op-amp in the box.

 Now the schematic also show +/- 12v, while the external power input is only +12V DC? how did they get the -12v?

 maybe adding a true +/- supply will make it sound better, with the internal amp that is


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Balanced push-pull 300B workalike from the KR range, just because I had quad sitting on my desk when the thought entered my mind. I tried the O2, 404 and 202. All of these earspeakers sound more impressive on the 300B than on the 007t and the 2050. More impressive here means more imposing. I don't want my music to sound grand, I want it to sound realistic, so I moved on. 

 However, your model and expectation is different from mine. I believe you will be stunned by the quality of the sound you can get from the 845 into your earspeakers. One of the three biggest thrills I ever had in tubes was the day I switched on my first 845 amp; everyone should hear an 845 amp on electrostats at least once before they die.

 There is a world beyond the Stax tube amps. How far you need to go is a matter of opinion and taste. If your aspiration is the window on the concert hall, then you need go no further than 6SL7 and 6SN7; in a competently designed amp they provide the closest approach to realism of all the tubes I have mentioned in this discussion, so that anything bigger is simply current overkill. If your aspiration is the maximum extreme of everything -- bass, treble, massive dynamics -- than trioded EL34 beckon, and beyond that 300B and 845.

 This is the first time I've ever known audio realism to demand the most economical of the possible tube topologies to do the job!

 If maximum hedonism is your dream, you should drive the 845 with a 300B or at least a triode-tied EL34 for both the obvious technical reasons I described earlier and for euphoric satisfaction: those tubes have synergy. 

 For inky micro-dynamic silence, it would probably be smart to go over to balanced working as soon as possible, all the way back to your DAC if you can, otherwise from the inputs of your headphone amp; though I long since stopped bothering with balanced working on amps for my floorstanding stats (I drive them with Class A1 PP amps, and monstrous SE amps, and silicon amps), I was very impressed by the improvement balanced working makes if you wear your stats on your head, right up close to your ears: it isn't just the music you bring closer, it is the quality of the silences as well.

 Andre Jute
 Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
 "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
 for the tube audio constructor"
 John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
 "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
 containing vital gems of wisdom"
 Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review_

 

Ultimate reality is the goal so extended treble, bass and a glorious midrange are the goals. The amp has to pretty much get out of the way and let the phones do their thing while providing huge amounts of power. Right now I'm used to the very good EL34 sound and it would be a good driver but I'll probably go for a completely DHT amp. It does limit my choices but I think it will be worth it. 

 The simple fact is the SR-007 needs more power then the Blue Hawaii can give them let alone the puny Stax amps. While the BH is a good amp (phenomenal with the SR-Omega) it is mostly solid state and a 845 based amp will give me more power and a different character. I will also build it much better, with better parts then my BH currently is using. 

 I'd like to have the amp balanced as the phones are balanced by nature. It does drive up the price quite a bit (a quad Alps RK50 isn't cheap) and it adds to the complexity of the amp. In reality I could just build 4 mono blocks into one chassis with a monster psu and have a transformer coupled single ended input. I'm not to picky so if I find a design I like I might just modify it and let it be enough. Less time and money spent prototyping will just leave more money for better parts and let me keep a bit of my sanity left. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's just like what Kondo did, used a good design but nothing great and managed to get something very special out of it by how it was implemented and above all else, the parts that were used. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What was Stax thinking with the cable on the SR-X/Mk3? I just put a new connector on the end of mine because it was cutting in and out, and that has to easily be the crummiest wire I've ever worked with. Talk about an exercise in patience, definitely not something I should've been doing at 2 in the morning. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The cable is awful and yet they continued to use it at least a decade after the OFC ribbon was introduced. It doesn't do the SR-X any favors either as they are a bit bright and the cable isn't helping.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since DC won't go through a transformer, any amount of offset the amp feels like generating should be fine, as far as the 'phones are concerned. The amp, however, is most likely to be happier with the minimum amount of DC offset. What's your setup?_

 

The less DC the better. The transformers might start to hum a bit if there is to much of it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since the only amplification inside is a current follower, can't you add a jack there so you can by-pass the inbox amp and use a high power dynamic headphone amp to drive the multiplier circuit? The jack will switch back to the original config and use the internal amp when you unplug the signal input (from external headphone amp). Should improve the sound a bit?

 I bet it will be easier than trying to upgrade the op-amp in the box.

 Now the schematic also show +/- 12v, while the external power input is only +12V DC? how did they get the -12v?

 maybe adding a true +/- supply will make it sound better, with the internal amp that is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A dynamic amp with plenty of voltage swing should work to drive that thing. Why not cram a DYNAHI in there... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The better PSU is a good idea but why not just buy a used T1 for less then 300$...

 I think we have reached a new level of insanity. Who in their right mind pays 728$US for a set of Lambda Pro's!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are good but not *that* good...


----------



## AudioCats

I can make a stiff regulated PSU with lots of extra low ESR caps for under $30. Lots and lots of them nice caps.....

 On the other hand, with the by-pass jack one can use a existing 10W speaker amp to drive the box at home, and resort back to the in-box chip for on the go...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we have reached a new level of insanity. Who in their right mind pays 728$US for a set of Lambda Pro's!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are good but not *that* good..._

 

What. The. Hell.

 Even half that, $364, would be on the higher end of what they're worth.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we have reached a new level of insanity. Who in their right mind pays 728$US for a set of Lambda Pro's!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are good but not *that* good..._

 

Oh my screwing god! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Two bidders went into a bidding war and drove the price from $333 all the way up to $727. One word -> *Insane*


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can make a stiff regulated PSU with lots of extra low ESR caps for under $30. Lots and lots of them nice caps.....

 On the other hand, with the by-pass jack one can use a existing 10W speaker amp to drive the box at home, and resort back to the in-box chip for on the go..._

 

Or you could just use a transformer... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't believe a setup like this can ever sound good as multipliers are bad enough in the power supply let alone in an amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What. The. Hell.

 Even half that, $364, would be on the higher end of what they're worth._

 

I really hope they were either very drunk or hung over as there is no excuse for something like this. 

 I do admit that I payed 400$ for my very nice Pro's but I saved a lot on the customs side so they weren't all that expensive.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since DC won't go through a transformer, any amount of offset the amp feels like generating should be fine, as far as the 'phones are concerned. The amp, however, is most likely to be happier with the minimum amount of DC offset. What's your setup?_

 

Most of the amps at my disposal are fine, but one of my "class D" amps emits ~60 mV on one channel and is not adjustable and the Firstwatt clone owned by a peer I'd like to try measures at more than 100 mV.He told me it's just the way it is for this design, but it seemed to be a bit much.
 Mike (PinkFloyd) did tell me some time ago as a rule of thumb that for headphones less than 20 mV is desirable, 50 mV is borderline and more not acceptable.
 Good to hear it doesn't apply to transformers because they block DC anyway.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I think we have reached a new level of insanity. Who in their right mind pays 728$US for a set of Lambda Pro's!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are good but not *that* good..._

 

I guess it's time to sell my Lambda Pros.
 Very good condition except of the missing foam, and we all know that's normal.
 Looks like near mint and is technically in perfect condition.First owner was an old bloke that seemingly used them extremely rarely and did keep it in the box most of the time.
 Get your Lambda Pros from a reputable head-fier instead of a shady ebay deal for only $727 .......


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or you could just use a transformer... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



_

 

but I can't do transformer on the go, eh? 

 Plus, a nice gold plated mini-jack only cost $5....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but I can't do transformer on the go, eh? 

 Plus, a nice gold plated mini-jack only cost $5...._

 

For a portable solution transformers are out but that didn't stop Koss in the old days.


----------



## Fitz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable is awful and yet they continued to use it at least a decade after the OFC ribbon was introduced. It doesn't do the SR-X any favors either as they are a bit bright and the cable isn't helping._

 

Apparently it isn't very durable either, even after reterminating them there's still an intermittant break in the cable elsewhere as well. Is there a place to buy an OEM Stax cable, or am I better off just making a new one?



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we have reached a new level of insanity. Who in their right mind pays 728$US for a set of Lambda Pro's!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are good but not *that* good..._

 

I was watching that too. And all I can say is *W...T...F.* And to think I was hesitant about paying $180 for one of my Lambdas. Just wow.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Apparently it isn't very durable either, even after reterminating them there's still an intermittant break in the cable elsewhere as well. Is there a place to buy an OEM Stax cable, or am I better off just making a new one?_

 

It's a bad cable for sure. You can try the US distributor and see if they have a spare or you could just buy an extension cable and use that, much better cable any way.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess it's time to sell my Lambda Pros._

 

Guess so!
 I have a pair of Lambda Pro's with brand new (unmounted) earpads that I will gladly let go for lets say $700 shipped.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess so!
 I have a pair of Lambda Pro's with brand new (unmounted) earpads that I will gladly let go for lets say $700 shipped. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You are right.
 I lower my price to $700, too.
 It's a bargain, but we do it for the sake of the community.........


----------



## Fitz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a bad cable for sure. You can try the US distributor and see if they have a spare or you could just buy an extension cable and use that, much better cable any way._

 






 The extension cables cost almost as much as the phones. I just went ahead and made a new cable for them since I already had some wire rated to 600V. I think the original cable was really screwed up in several ways, because the phones sounded muddy and dark when I got them (nothing like how I remembered them), but after putting a new cable on they sound more like my old pair. I could just gently pinch one of the conductors between my fingernails, and the insulation would tear and the few copper strands break off completely, that's how bad the old cable is.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are right.
 I lower my price to $700, too.
 It's a bargain, but we do it for the sake of the community........._

 

I hate to be a cheapsake lowballer, but maybe you can please sell it for $675 instead?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 The extension cables cost almost as much as the phones. I just went ahead and made a new cable for them since I already had some wire rated to 600V. I think the original cable was really screwed up in several ways, because the phones sounded muddy and dark when I got them (nothing like how I remembered them), but after putting a new cable on they sound more like my old pair. I could just gently pinch one of the conductors between my fingernails, and the insulation would tear and the few copper strands break off completely, that's how bad the old cable is._

 

I know it's expensive but I just love the Wide-OCC cable...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 The extension cables cost almost as much as the phones. I just went ahead and made a new cable for them since I already had some wire rated to 600V._

 

The 2.5 meter extension cable cost $79.00.
 Its certainly not cheap, but then its a really quality cable as well.

 I bought a used SR-Gamma cable, which intended to use to re-cable one of my SR-X/MK3 pairs. But have not come that far yet...
 Might be interesting to hear how the SR-X/MK3 play with a better cable.


----------



## ferrstein

Hello again! I seem to keep dropping in with the same subject. This time I've done some more listening to my various transformers, and I have to say that the venerable SRM1 MkII is a pretty nice machine!

 Here's what I'm hearing... I set up my two identical pair of Lambda Pros in my system. One was hooked up to the speaker outputs of my Creek 5350SE integrated amp through my SRD-7 Pro Adaptor. The other was hooked up to the tape send of the Creek 5350SE through my SRM1 MkII. I did some casual listening to both in an attempt to match the volume as closely as I could. 

 The Lambda Pro/SRM1 MkII combo was very airy at the top, had great body to the vocals, and what seemed to be a very large soundstage. Instruments in the soundstage seemed to have very good presense.

 The Lambda Pro/SRD-7 Adaptor had less "largeness" to the sound, and had perhaps slightly less weight to some instruments, especially the string bass on Tracy Chapman's "Material World" on her Crossroads album. The soundstage was not as vast. However, the vocals appeared to have more drive or pace to them. More dynamics, perhaps. It is hard to describe, but the voice just sounds more alive. It is quite addicting. I'm not sure which I like better... and I'm starting to think I need to just leave both setups within easy reach!

 I re-ran the entire experiment with my Sansui AU-919 integrated, even though that thing is way too big for my computer desk. To my surprise, my impressions didn't change much between it and the Creek 5350se. The Sansui does have more power, but it still had the same sonic signature through the SRD7 pro that the Creek did.

 Now I need to run the entire test over again with my SR-Lambda earspeakers! 

 I'll keep you posted...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello again! I seem to keep dropping in with the same subject. This time I've done some more listening to my various transformers, and I have to say that the venerable SRM1 MkII is a pretty nice machine!

 Here's what I'm hearing... I set up my two identical pair of Lambda Pros in my system. One was hooked up to the speaker outputs of my Creek 5350SE integrated amp through my SRD-7 Pro Adaptor. The other was hooked up to the tape send of the Creek 5350SE through my SRM1 MkII. I did some casual listening to both in an attempt to match the volume as closely as I could. 

 The Lambda Pro/SRM1 MkII combo was very airy at the top, had great body to the vocals, and what seemed to be a very large soundstage. Instruments in the soundstage seemed to have very good presense.

 The Lambda Pro/SRD-7 Adaptor had less "largeness" to the sound, and had perhaps slightly less weight to some instruments, especially the string bass on Tracy Chapman's "Material World" on her Crossroads album. The soundstage was not as vast. However, the vocals appeared to have more drive or pace to them. More dynamics, perhaps. It is hard to describe, but the voice just sounds more alive. It is quite addicting. I'm not sure which I like better... and I'm starting to think I need to just leave both setups within easy reach!

 I re-ran the entire experiment with my Sansui AU-919 integrated, even though that thing is way too big for my computer desk. To my surprise, my impressions didn't change much between it and the Creek 5350se. The Sansui does have more power, but it still had the same sonic signature through the SRD7 pro that the Creek did.

 Now I need to run the entire test over again with my SR-Lambda earspeakers! 

 I'll keep you posted..._

 


 Interesting...

 I still haven't got over the shock I had earlier this year, when I hooked up an ancient SRD-6 (SB) to a Naim 32.5/140 Pre-/Power-amp combo, and how it completely dwarfed both my SRM-1/Mk2 and SRM-313 Stax amps, when driving my SR-X Mk3s.

 Sadly, I still lack any Pro-bias trafo so can't do the same comparison with my SR-202s/SR-303s...


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting...

 I still haven't got over the shock I had earlier this year, when I hooked up an ancient SRD-6 (SB) to a Naim 32.5/140 Pre-/Power-amp combo, and how it completely dwarfed both my SRM-1/Mk2 and SRM-313 Stax amps, when driving my SR-X Mk3s.

 Sadly, I still lack any Pro-bias trafo so can't do the same comparison with my SR-202s/SR-303s..._

 

You can make a cable adapter that allows the SRM1 MkII to power the bias on your pro 'phones while using your SRD-6 to power the audio signals. You'd need a couple of connectors to do this. 

 Maybe the Creek and Sansui aren't the best match to the SRD-7's transformers. I do remember being very enthusiastic about the sound of the SRD-7 when I first heard it, but a direct comparison showed the SRM1 did some stuff better. 

 Another think I need to do is try this experiment again with my huge Moscode amplifier. It isn't practical to use that amp in my current setup, but I do remember the SRD7 sounding really, really good with that.

*Edit:* Okay, after letting everything warm up for a day, the Sansui AU-919/SRD7 Pro/Lambda Pro are besting the SRM1 MkII/Lambda Pro by a good margin. Right now the bass and vocals through the SRM1 are sounding sort of bleached or white in comparison to the Sansui and the transfos. After being on for a day, the soundstage really opened up on that combo as well. The vocals are definitely more intimate and immediate. Terry Evans' voice is amazingly dynamic and clear on the title track to "Come to the River." In comparison, the SRM1 sounds like some field effect equalisation has been applied - he is more distant and just not as punchy. 

 So... the score for round two goes squarely to the SRD7 Pro. Geez, talk about a flip-flopper!

 Round three is coming soon... a re-match with the Creek Integrated.

 Oh, and just a pic to help share the moment:


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting...

 I still haven't got over the shock I had earlier this year, when I hooked up an ancient SRD-6 (SB) to a Naim 32.5/140 Pre-/Power-amp combo, and how it completely dwarfed both my SRM-1/Mk2 and SRM-313 Stax amps, when driving my SR-X Mk3s.

 Sadly, I still lack any Pro-bias trafo so can't do the same comparison with my SR-202s/SR-303s..._

 

I remember being impressed by a Naim amplifier when I once had one in my system for a trial. Unfortuantely it was too expensive to buy.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can make a cable adapter that allows the SRM1 MkII to power the bias on your pro 'phones while using your SRD-6 to power the audio signals. You'd need a couple of connectors to do this. 

 Maybe the Creek and Sansui aren't the best match to the SRD-7's transformers. I do remember being very enthusiastic about the sound of the SRD-7 when I first heard it, but a direct comparison showed the SRM1 did some stuff better. 

 Another think I need to do is try this experiment again with my huge Moscode amplifier. It isn't practical to use that amp in my current setup, but I do remember the SRD7 sounding really, really good with that.

*Edit:* Okay, after letting everything warm up for a day, the Sansui AU-919/SRD7 Pro/Lambda Pro are besting the SRM1 MkII/Lambda Pro by a good margin. Right now the bass and vocals through the SRM1 are sounding sort of bleached or white in comparison to the Sansui and the transfos. After being on for a day, the soundstage really opened up on that combo as well. The vocals are definitely more intimate and immediate. Terry Evans' voice is amazingly dynamic and clear on the title track to "Come to the River." In comparison, the SRM1 sounds like some field effect equalisation has been applied - he is more distant and just not as punchy. 

 So... the score for round two goes squarely to the SRD7 Pro. Geez, talk about a flip-flopper!

 Round three is coming soon... a re-match with the Creek Integrated.

 Oh, and just a pic to help share the moment:



_

 

It doesn't surpise me that the transformer could best some of the Stax amps especially in reagrd to dynamics. Some of this will depend on the quality and power handling of the power amp used to drive the transformer. On the other hand the the SRMI MKII is a pretty old amp and underpowered even by Stax's standards.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, and just a pic to help share the moment:



_

 

You earn a gigantic pile of Duggeh points for the QUADs. +10,000 ;D


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It doesn't surpise me that the transformer could best some of the Stax amps especially in reagrd to dynamics. Some of this will depend on the quality and power handling of the power amp used to drive the transformer. On the other hand the the SRMI MKII is a pretty old amp and underpowered even by Stax's standards._

 

It also doesn’t surprise me that a transformer driven by a decent amp is more dynamic than a SRM-1 mk2 pro. I used to use a SRD-7 mk2 with a Pass Labs Aleph 5 and a Marantz 8B. I still prefer a direct drive amp when it comes to transparency, low level detail, bandwidth and retrieval of ambiance. I sold my SRD-7 mk2 and Aleph 5 a few years ago and never looked back. I had some 50:1 turns ratio transformers custom made that I have not tried yet. Even though I have a 007t and 717 I still like the SRM-1. It does a decent job of driving my O2's. I also like my SRA-12s on the SR-XmkIII with a Behringer EQ.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had some 50:1 turns ratio transformers custom made that I have not tried yet._

 

Please tell more ! Very interested.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ...Even though I have a 007t and 717 I still like the SRM-1. It does a decent job of driving my O2's..._

 

Where do you rank the SRM-1 in relation to the 007t and the 717 when driving the O2s?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please tell more ! Very interested._

 

Just Real Music (www.justrealmusic.com) is a company that caters to the DIY electrostatic loudspeaker builder. It is owned by Russ Knotts in Ohio, USA. I had a long discussion with Russ about a high quality step-up transformer for Stax and Koss electrostatic headphones. His transformers are custom hand wound by him. He told me that he could custom modify his model M99 trans to have a 25:1 or 50:1 turns ratio depending on the wiring configuration. The stock M99 is only setup for 50:1. The Stax transformers are 24:1. It took about a month to get my special order. They are much, much larger than the trans in the Stax or Koss energizers. Because this trans is originally designed for electrostatic loudspeakers they should have extremely high voltage output capability and bandwidth. They would be used at a fraction of their max specs so they should behave beautifully. I’ve been so busy with other projects that I have not tried them yet. If you would like to see a picture of the trans go to Russ’s website. I will let you know of any progress on this project.

 AudioD


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You earn a gigantic pile of Duggeh points for the QUADs. +10,000 ;D_

 

Hehe. Yeah, it's a shame to have those beauties stuck in the corner like that. They are some of the most natural, unstrained bookshelf speakers I've heard. They even soundstage okay when I'm sitting right at my desk. Very cool. I have a very small Rel Q201e subwoofer sitting under the desk to help give them a bit of bass grunt. I end up turning the level way, way down on that though... the little Quads do a pretty nice job with bass all on their own.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just Real Music (www.justrealmusic.com) is a company that caters to the DIY electrostatic loudspeaker builder. It is owned by Russ Knotts in Ohio, USA.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I live about 20 minutes from Rus. We get together every once in a while. He is a super nice guy, and he makes some amazingly transparent electrostatic speakers. He definitely knows what he's doing with transformers. I heard a set of Acoustats powered by his transformers, and they had a level of detail and transparency that I have never heard from an Acoustat... and I've been listening to various models of that brand for 15 years! His own panels sound even better. Funny, I've never spoken to him about my Stax stuff. I'll definitely have to give him a shout. Based on what I heard at his place, I betcha he can wring some major performance out of a set of Staxes.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do you rank the SRM-1 in relation to the 007t and the 717 when driving the O2s? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don’t get me wrong the SRM-1mk2 pro doesn’t walk on water, but it is high up the list of the all time best amps made by Stax IMO. The 717 is clearly better (better balance, more laid back midrange, more musical, sweeter top, deeper bottom & more dynamic) but it could be called a baby brother. In a few ways I like it better than the 007t on the O2’s (better tonal balance). IMO the O2's need a wide bandwidth stiff and dynamic HV source that pushes the 007t to it's limits. I mostly use my SRM-1 with Lambda Pro’s in my bedroom system. The 007t is my favorite Stax amp with all my Lambda models. I like the low bias socket on it for my LB Lambda, SR-X & SR-5.

 AudioD


----------



## ferrstein

Okay, so I revisited the comparison between the SRM1/MkII and the Creek Classic 5350se/SRD7 Pro. Again, after a nice period of warm-up, I am liking the transformers better. Again my preference has to do with a more palpable quality to the sounds of vocals and instruments. The SRM1/MKII has a thinning of the sound in comparison... almost as though each instrument isn't as well saturated or something. 

 I think my initial comparison where I preferred the SRM1 much of the time was truly due to the fact that I had just plugged in the SRD7 Pro and the second set of Lambda Pro's. 

 Next step is to run this whole experiment over again with my newly aquired SRD7 (non pro) and my SR-Sigma's. 

 Another picture of my desk system. The Creek does sound better than the Sansui through the SRD7 Pro/Lambda Pro setup, but only incrementally so. The fact that it is 1/4 the weight and size of the Sansui kicks the WAF up a few notches... so it (the Creek) is here to stay!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, so I revisited the comparison between the SRM1/MkII and the Creek Classic 5350se/SRD7 Pro. Again, after a nice period of warm-up, I am liking the transformers better. Again my preference has to do with a more palpable quality to the sounds of vocals and instruments. The SRM1/MKII has a thinning of the sound in comparison... almost as though each instrument isn't as well saturated or something. 

 I think my initial comparison where I preferred the SRM1 much of the time was truly due to the fact that I had just plugged in the SRD7 Pro and the second set of Lambda Pro's. 

 Next step is to run this whole experiment over again with my newly aquired SRD7 (non pro) and my SR-Sigma's. 
_

 

Are you fully warming up the SRMI MKII? Also, I find that most Stax phones sound better if used regularly and not allowed to sit unplugged from their amps. In fact I generall leave mine plugged in all the time, but not with the amp on all the time.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I live about 20 minutes from Rus. We get together every once in a while. He is a super nice guy, and he makes some amazingly transparent electrostatic speakers. He definitely knows what he's doing with transformers. I heard a set of Acoustats powered by his transformers, and they had a level of detail and transparency that I have never heard from an Acoustat... and I've been listening to various models of that brand for 15 years! His own panels sound even better. Funny, I've never spoken to him about my Stax stuff. I'll definitely have to give him a shout. Based on what I heard at his place, I betcha he can wring some major performance out of a set of Staxes._

 

I would like to hear his stats. I've been using stats in my main system (in one form or another) since 1970.

 AudioD


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you fully warming up the SRMI MKII? Also, I find that most Stax phones sound better if used regularly and not allowed to sit unplugged from their amps. In fact I generall leave mine plugged in all the time, but not with the amp on all the time._

 

Yes. Actually I'm thinking that's why I originally liked the SRM1 MKII better. It had been on for a few days. I had just plugged in the SRD7 pro and the Lambda Pros for that unit before I did the initial test. After both systems were up and running for a full day I started leaning towards the SRD7. Based on what I'm hearing, I am now leaving the SRD7 on at all times. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to hear his stats. I've been using stats in my main system (in one form or another) since 1970.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are very detailed and natural sounding at the same time. The ones I heard were either the smallest or one of the smallest models he makes, so they wouldn't play at very high volume. The soundstage they made was just incredible.

 I have to admit that I didn't expect his speakers to sound as good as they do. I had him over to listen to my Acoustat Model 8s, and he said something to the effect that he could improve on the panels. After hearing that I had to go give his a listen. He definitely delivers as promised. Since I like pictures so much, here is a pic of my Model 8s:


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are very detailed and natural sounding at the same time. The ones I heard were either the smallest or one of the smallest models he makes, so they wouldn't play at very high volume. The soundstage they made was just incredible.

 I have to admit that I didn't expect his speakers to sound as good as they do. I had him over to listen to my Acoustat Model 8s, and he said something to the effect that he could improve on the panels. After hearing that I had to go give his a listen. He definitely delivers as promised. Since I like pictures so much, here is a pic of my Model 8s:_

 

Stat's RULE!!! When I owned a High End store in the 70's (Audio Dimensions) we were one of the first Acoustat dealers in the country. We also carried the Quad, Dayton-Wright and Magenpan (not a stat). My current system is a pair of Audiostatic (made in Holland) ES-100's with a Velodyne DD-12 sub.

 AudioD


----------



## Carl

Damn, my HE60 got a nasty crease in its cable and now the right channel is slighty quieter. Damn damn damn damn.

 At least they're still fixable and at least it was only the cable, i guess.


----------



## spritzer

Some nice big transformers seem like a great idea. Put them in something like a DIY Firstwatt F2 and you have a dual purpose amp on the cheap. 

 Very nice speakers btw. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, my HE60 got a nasty crease in its cable and now the right channel is slighty quieter. Damn damn damn damn.

 At least they're still fixable and at least it was only the cable, i guess._

 

Not good but it gives you the perfect excuse for a recable with some Stax wire. You know you want it...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not good but it gives you the perfect excuse for a recable with some Stax wire. You know you want it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

From a sound point of view Senns cable isn't actually that bad. It just feels cheap and has far too little insulation given the voltages involved. I think the wire in there is of a very thin wire gauge, which would explain why it creased so easily.

 Now the Koss certainly benefitted from the Stax cable...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From a sound point of view Senns cable isn't actually that bad. It just feels cheap and has far too little insulation given the voltages involved. I think the wire in there is of a very thin wire gauge, which would explain why it creased so easily.

 Now the Koss certainly benefitted from the Stax cable..._

 

The Senn cable is very very thin because it is double insulated. Inside the black sheath are 6 color coded wires. The wire is about 1/10 of the Stax cable and it is only OFC.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From a sound point of view Senns cable isn't actually that bad. It just feels cheap and has far too little insulation given the voltages involved. I think the wire in there is of a very thin wire gauge, which would explain why it creased so easily.

 Now the Koss certainly benefitted from the Stax cable..._

 

Well, if you go ahead with it, Carl, be sure to let all us fellow HE60 owners know your impressions. On the face of it it sounds like the recable would be a sensible idea even if the cable hadn't been creased!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Senn cable is very very thin because it is double insulated. Inside the black sheath are 6 color coded wires. The wire is about 1/10 of the Stax cable and it is only OFC._

 

Alex did some testing on the resistance and capacitance vs the older Stax OCC cables and found them pretty similar, so I don't see anything wrong there. If I was going to replace it I'd get it done with high purity silver rather than just OCC copper anyway.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if you go ahead with it, Carl, be sure to let all us fellow HE60 owners know your impressions. On the face of it it sounds like the recable would be a sensible idea even if the cable hadn't been creased!_

 

It's highly unlikely that I will.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alex did some testing on the resistance and capacitance vs the older Stax OCC cables and found them pretty similar, so I don't see anything wrong there. If I was going to replace it I'd get it done with high purity silver rather than just OCC copper anyway._

 

It's not really the resistance or capacitance that bothers me but the insulation properties like dielectric absorption. I would also like some soft silver ribbon cable with individually insulated strands and some nice silicone insulation but that will cost a fortune. Carbon might also be a contender but it would have to be heavily metalized. 

 The only cheap way to do this is to get some company to make an outer flat 6 core sheath that we could pull the wires through.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not really the resistance (...) that bothers me.
 Carbon might also be a contender but it would have to be heavily metalized._

 

Why, if the resistance doesn't bother you?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why, if the resistance doesn't bother you?_

 

I've never liked pure carbon as a conductor and it's only saving grace is flexibility.


----------



## Michgelsen

Ok. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I ask because I plan to buy carbon cables from Van den Hul when I need new ones. That's why I am curious what the downsides are. It looks to me like carbon is a nice solution. Then again, most of the info I got comes from the site of Van den Hul themselves.


----------



## spritzer

I have had two pairs of the First and it always sounds "off" to me. It's too soft for it's own good and the bass is over blown but that could work for your setup so try them out. They are far better then some of the cables in the same pricerange and the only way to get a better price/performance ratio is to DIY.


----------



## Carl

Nicely done. So are you planning on keeping the T1W?


----------



## spritzer

Yup... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It was very close to my maximum price but it's still worth it


----------



## Carl

The moment I saw it listed I knew you were going to snag it. The price certaily isn't too bad when you consider what some people would pay for a Lambda Pro with a SRM-1mk2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The moment I saw it listed I knew you were going to snag it. The price certaily isn't too bad when you consider what some people would pay for a Lambda Pro with a SRM-1mk2._

 

I'm getting predictable in my old age... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A better 404 is something I can hardly pass on, at least this cheap. 

 I need the multiple inputs on the T1W as I will buy at least one more DAC for my rig so that will be a total of 3 sources. It is also nice to have a preamp on hand if I ever finish my two box KGSS since it was designed as a power amp. There is also the minor point that the T1W matches the SR-Ω looks


----------



## spritzer

Well I just won a Lambda Spirit system as well for 130$ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm on fire today!!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. Actually I'm thinking that's why I originally liked the SRM1 MKII better. It had been on for a few days. I had just plugged in the SRD7 pro and the Lambda Pros for that unit before I did the initial test. After both systems were up and running for a full day I started leaning towards the SRD7. Based on what I'm hearing, I am now leaving the SRD7 on at all times. 



 They are very detailed and natural sounding at the same time. The ones I heard were either the smallest or one of the smallest models he makes, so they wouldn't play at very high volume. The soundstage they made was just incredible.

 I have to admit that I didn't expect his speakers to sound as good as they do. I had him over to listen to my Acoustat Model 8s, and he said something to the effect that he could improve on the panels. After hearing that I had to go give his a listen. He definitely delivers as promised. Since I like pictures so much, here is a pic of my Model 8s:




_

 

\

 I would love to hear those! I haven't heard a pair in years. Here is what I listen to when not listening to headphones:


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I just won a Lambda Spirit system as well for 130$ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm on fire today!!_

 

Clearly I need to be watching the auction sites more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Congrats on the new purchases.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Clearly I need to be watching the auction sites more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Congrats on the new purchases._

 

You should. It was described as a "junk" item but it's only the PSU brick that is toast and I have no use for it anyway. The Spirit system has been a mystery to me for a long time so I can't wait to try it out.


----------



## Carl

Thankfully the Japanese are generally pretty cautious when they list the condition of things.


 I gave Matt the SRA-7S today, and I'm planning on redrawing the schematic tomorrow, so hopefully we'll be ready to start designing PCBs in the next week or two. Pulling the 6FQ7s out of it and sticking them in his Xiang Sheng was heaps of fun.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I just won a Lambda Spirit system as well for 130$ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm on fire today!!_

 

Birgir, congratulations with *another* nice score!


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, congratulations with *another* nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He'll run out of electrostatic headphones to get soon. He'll have to start collecting orthodynamics like Wualta or something.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thankfully the Japanese are generally pretty cautious when they list the condition of things.


 I gave Matt the SRA-7S today, and I'm planning on redrawing the schematic tomorrow, so hopefully we'll be ready to start designing PCBs in the next week or two. Pulling the 6FQ7s out of it and sticking them in his Xiang Sheng was heaps of fun._

 

They are pretty anal alright but I prefer that to the ebay way. I have received broken headphones listed as working quite a few times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I can't wait for the SRA-7S and I'm even thinking about building an Egmont at the same time. I'll just use the KGSS power supply since I have quite a few PCBs here. 

 What 6FQ7s were in it?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, congratulations with *another* nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Constant watching does pay off...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He'll run out of electrostatic headphones to get soon. He'll have to start collecting orthodynamics like Wualta or something. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll need to throw some 10k$ or more at it but I'll get there. Next are ESL speakers...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't wait for the SRA-7S and I'm even thinking about building an Egmont at the same time. I'll just use the KGSS power supply since I have quite a few PCBs here._

 

So SRA-7S, Egmont, and HEV90? Then you'll need an amp for your O2s...

  Quote:


 What 6FQ7s were in it? 
 

Matsu****a. The amp is pretty much made entirely from stuff out of the Matsu****a parts catalogue. 

 The tubes are pretty much had it now, but they have been in there sinse 1966. Still despite the semi-alive tubes, insufficient heater current and not being the tube designed for the circuit I still liked it more than the 6DJ8s they temporarily replaced. It gives me confidence that changing the 7S's tube compliment is a good decision.

  Quote:


 I'll need to throw some 10k$ or more at it but I'll get there. Next are ESL speakers... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Yes, collect ESLs, all of them. Now that'd make collecting headphones seem cheap and compact.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So SRA-7S, Egmont, and HEV90? Then you'll need an amp for your O2s..._

 

The Egmont is easy as I only need a few caps and filament transformers or a main transformer if I wont use my spare KGSS unit. The HEV90 is on hold until I resolve the PCB matter so I guess it's time to start annoying Justin again... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm researching for the O2 amp and I'm leaning towards the 572-3 due to it's small size and how easy it is to work with. 4 845s is a bit of a handful even if they are in a single ended p-p setup. Going balanced will be fun though... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Matsu****a. The amp is pretty much made entirely from stuff out of the Matsu****a parts catalogue._

 

They seem to be what Stax used to voice all of their amps. They are simply superb in the T1. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The tubes are pretty much had it now, but they have been in there sinse 1966. Still despite the semi-alive tubes, insufficient heater current and not being the tube designed for the circuit I still liked it more than the 6DJ8s they temporarily replaced. It gives me confidence that changing the 7S's tube compliment is a good decision._

 

I think it was a good choice as well. There is nostalgia and then there is building on what people have done before you. The latter is always better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, collect ESLs, all of them. Now that'd make collecting headphones seem cheap and compact._

 

I need at least a Quad ESL and a 63, KLH Model 9, Stax F-81/83, an Acoustat and Sound Lab U-1 as the main speaker. Might even get a Audiostatic as they are cheap and have a pretty novel design.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Egmont is easy as I only need a few caps and filament transformers or a main transformer if I wont use my spare KGSS unit. The HEV90 is on hold until I resolve the PCB matter so I guess it's time to start annoying Justin again... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm sure he'll love you for that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep me posted on any developments. I'm not sure I'd build a HEV90 once the 7S is done as the former has way too many parts, and way to many unpleasent sounding parts like opamps in the PSU, but who knows. I need some tubes before I go crazy in any case.

  Quote:


 I'm researching for the O2 amp and I'm leaning towards the 572-3 due to it's small size and how easy it is to work with. 4 845s is a bit of a handful even if they are in a single ended p-p setup. Going balanced will be fun though... 
 

SV572-3s are nice. You'll need a mean driver stage, of course, any ideas on what you want to use? It'd be hard to do without using any feedback to lower the impedance. Maybe something stepdown transformer coupled?

  Quote:


 They seem to be what Stax used to voice all of their amps. They are simply superb in the T1. 
 

I might try tracking down a NOS set when it comes time to tuberoll.

  Quote:


 I think it was a good choice as well. There is nostalgia and then there is building on what people have done before you. The latter is always better. 
 

Taking the road well travelled is human nature, but it's not something I'm fond of or else I'd be listening to an HD650 driven off some opamp based amp or something. 

  Quote:


 I need at least a Quad ESL and a 63, KLH Model 9, Stax F-81/83, an Acoustat and Sound Lab U-1 as the main speaker. Might even get a Audiostatic as they are cheap and have a pretty novel design. 
 

Don't forget the Sonys and Beverages.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sure he'll love you for that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep me posted on any developments. I'm not sure I'd build a HEV90 once the 7S is done as the former has way too many parts, and way to many unpleasent sounding parts like opamps in the PSU, but who knows. I need some tubes before I go crazy in any case._

 

I would use a different PSU then what Sennheiser used. The Headamp design is pretty good for the price point and could be a good to test the amp and such and then build something tube based. 

 I'll bother Justin again soon... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SV572-3s are nice. You'll need a mean driver stage, of course, any ideas on what you want to use? It'd be hard to do without using any feedback to lower the impedance. Maybe something stepdown transformer coupled?_

 

The driver stage will be a problem. I'm going to see how others have done it but that's almost always some ECC83 and EL34 abomination. I'm still hoping that somebody has landed ona good design that I can "borrow". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm certainly not afraid of transformers and they are certainly an option. I'm researching this as much as I can and when I come up with a good design I'll first build a starter amp to test the design and then build the insane version. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might try tracking down a NOS set when it comes time to tuberoll._

 

I can highly recommend that. The Toshiba tubes are also very nice. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Taking the road well travelled is human nature, but it's not something I'm fond of or else I'd be listening to an HD650 driven off some opamp based amp or something._

 

Amen. I do still have the HD600 hooked up to an opamp based amp but computer games aren't to picky. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't forget the Sonys and Beverages._

 

The Sonys make any headphone seem in abundant supply. I think they only made about 50 R10 pairs. 

 The Beverages are nice but the cost of shipping them here would be sky high. The Stax stats are only about 20kgs and so are most of the other ones. The U-1 is around 10 times that... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is also the Braun model and lots of others but it's a good start.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't forget the Sonys and Beverages._

 

...and Martin-Logan, Janszen, Dayton-Wright, RTR, Final, Inersound...


----------



## bralk

I have just recieved a SRS-212 set (269 € NOS from Japan) for office use and I am pleasantly surprised by the sound quality compared to the O2s. But every time I move my head I get loud "quirky", "screechy" noises from the headband.

 Oil ? graphite ? or what would you suggest.

 Otherwise very pleased with the set - even the mini 212 amp. Looking forward to try out the phones with the 717. It is obvious that the 212 is a bit loose in the lowest octaves.

 best regards

 Tom


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and Martin-Logan, Janszen, Dayton-Wright, RTR, Final, Inersound..._

 

Martin-Logan, Innersound and Final are all hybrids so they are out. The CLS is on my list but shipping it would be a hassle. 

 Janszen is catered for with the KLH Model 9 as he designed it. RTR ripped off the Janszen designs so I'll pass but Dayton-Wright are worth a spot on my list. The same goes for the Koss speakers and their crazy double diaphragms.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just recieved a SRS-212 set (269 € NOS from Japan) for office use and I am pleasantly surprised by the sound quality compared to the O2s. But every time I move my head I get loud "quirky", "screechy" noises from the headband.

 Oil ? graphite ? or what would you suggest._

 

Tom: I had a similar problem of 'creaking' noises from my SR-313s, whenever I moved my head, but the noise was coming from the earspeakers, at the mounting point where they fitted into the headband stirrup.

 Don't use oil! I found that a bit of talcum powder (taking care not let any get near the drivers!) cured it.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_\

 I would love to hear those! I haven't heard a pair in years..._

 

Are you close to Oklahoma City? There are two of the finest direct-driven Acoustat setups in the world located there. One is a set of 4s, and the other is a set of stacked 4s which, of course, make an 8!

 Those Maggies are gorgeous, BTW...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would use a different PSU then what Sennheiser used. The Headamp design is pretty good for the price point and could be a good to test the amp and such and then build something tube based. 

 I'll bother Justin again soon... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You should start phoning him using Skype. That'd really make his existance a happy one.

  Quote:


 The driver stage will be a problem. I'm going to see how others have done it but that's almost always some ECC83 and EL34 abomination. I'm still hoping that somebody has landed ona good design that I can "borrow". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

So many great amps totally destroy things at the driver stage. So many amps have used AU7s/AX7s/AT7s/AY7s as drivers for big power tubes.

  Quote:


 I'm certainly not afraid of transformers and they are certainly an option. I'm researching this as much as I can and when I come up with a good design I'll first build a starter amp to test the design and then build the insane version. 
 

One cool technique is to use a voltage divider to lower the impedance, and then direct couple the stages together. You'll need a high voltage, low Rp tube to make that work, though. How does using a GM70 as a driver sound? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I can highly recommend that. The Toshiba tubes are also very nice. 
 

Any suggestions on EF86s and 5687s to try?

  Quote:


 Amen. I do still have the HD600 hooked up to an opamp based amp but computer games aren't to picky. 
 

For me, anything less than the full experince won't do with games. Then again, RPGs and visual novels tend to have better use of sound than the racing/fighting/shooting games that 'normal' people play...

  Quote:


 The Sonys make any headphone seem in abundant supply. I think they only made about 50 R10 pairs. 
 

They're certainly a rare beast. Still, they have bass, and that alone is a good reason to track down a set.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The same goes for the Koss speakers and their crazy double diaphragms._

 

I want a set of Model Twos personally. Shipping a set from America will be seriously expensive, though.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I gave Matt the SRA-7S today, and I'm planning on redrawing the schematic tomorrow, so hopefully we'll be ready to start designing PCBs in the next week or two. Pulling the 6FQ7s out of it and sticking them in his Xiang Sheng was heaps of fun._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The tubes are pretty much had it now, but they have been in there sinse 1966. Still despite the semi-alive tubes, insufficient heater current and not being the tube designed for the circuit I still liked it more than the 6DJ8s they temporarily replaced. It gives me confidence that changing the 7S's tube compliment is a good decision._

 

I really didn't think it would work at all but I agree completely with your comments. On moving back to the PCC88's from the 6FQ7s the difference was plain as day. The 6FQ7s were a lot better other than the cutting in/cutting out due to the low heater current. I really think I should replace the transformer and do any needed mods to get more current and make that change permanent.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really didn't think it would work at all but I agree completely with your comments. On moving back to the PCC88's from the 6FQ7s the difference was plain as day. The 6FQ7s were a lot better other than the cutting in/cutting out due to the low heater current. I really think I should replace the transformer to get more current and make that change permanent._

 

Get a really beefy supply so you can try 6N30Ps and ECC99s, too. My plan is to have all these tubes as an option for the output stage of the 7S. There are lots of options with E9A bases.


----------



## Carl

It didn't end up being as neat as I'd intended, but hopefully it'll still be readable. Click on the image for the full sized version.

 The odds I got everything right is low given the source material [link = pdf file] that I had to work with. I imagine I'd have made the odd order of magnitude error. Point them out to me if you see any.





 A Japanese chap has done it in software, but a few of his values are slightly off. On the flipside, his is actually readable.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should start phoning him using Skype. That'd really make his existance a happy one._

 

Hehe, not even I am this cruel. I can understand him though as sometimes you just want a moments peace to get some work done. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So many great amps totally destroy things at the driver stage. So many amps have used AU7s/AX7s/AT7s/AY7s as drivers for big power tubes._

 

I was looking at some cheap Chinese amps that I could maybe modify and they do all have this problem. A 12AX7/6SN7 driving a big transmitter tube is just plain lazy. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One cool technique is to use a voltage divider to lower the impedance, and then direct couple the stages together. You'll need a high voltage, low Rp tube to make that work, though. How does using a GM70 as a driver sound? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was thinking about using a 845 as a driver so I'm up for it. The output stage is sometime pretty well done on these designs I can find but the input is a joke. Now if I could only find a good design I could adapt and "borrow" and get this over with. If I drag this out for too long I'll never finish it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any suggestions on EF86s and 5687s to try?_

 

I'm probably going with Mullard EF86s and Tung-Sol 5687s but you never know how they will behave in the circuit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For me, anything less than the full experince won't do with games. Then again, RPGs and visual novels tend to have better use of sound than the racing/fighting/shooting games that 'normal' people play..._

 

I'm going to modify the Corda Aria so I can output the usb audio at line level and use the SRM-Xh with the computer. Should be fun..

 I do admit to play a few of the better made shooters but I simply can't stand the linear/trigger based type. RPG's and strategy is more my thing. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're certainly a rare beast. Still, they have bass, and that alone is a good reason to track down a set._

 

Yes it would but a Sound Lab U-1/UB-1 combo is flat down to 15Hz or even lower... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They do need a "bit" of space but I'm ok with living in a shed. 

 The story about these R10 speakers is a great read and shows just how good Sony used to be. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want a set of Model Twos personally. Shipping a set from America will be seriously expensive, though._

 

I'm considering buying speakers and getting some of my family over there to store them for me until I've filled up a cargo container and have it shipped over here. Doesn't cost nearly as much as normal express mail.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get a really beefy supply so you can try 6N30Ps and ECC99s, too. My plan is to have all these tubes as an option for the output stage of the 7S. There are lots of options with E9A bases._

 

Both of these tubes would be great to swap in as they are dead cheap and some of the best designs available. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It didn't end up being as neat as I'd intended, but hopefully it'll still be readable. Click on the image for the full sized version.

 The odds I got everything right is low given the source material [link = pdf file] that I had to work with. I imagine I'd have made the odd order of magnitude error. Point them out to me if you see any.

 A Japanese chap has done it in software, but a few of his values are slightly off. On the flipside, his is actually readable.

http://www.mirumu.com/nmc/src/1186571353266.gif_

 

Thanks for the schematic. I'll look it over later when I've slept a bit and my mind is functioning at about 50%...


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you close to Oklahoma City? There are two of the finest direct-driven Acoustat setups in the world located there. One is a set of 4s, and the other is a set of stacked 4s which, of course, make an 8!

 Those Maggies are gorgeous, BTW..._

 


 I am close to Oklahoma City! I will be home soon, and will contact you.

 Thanks for the compliments on the Maggies. I have yet to hear them with my new ARC Ref 210's (replaced Krell KAS 2's). Since I work on a DoD ship, I can't give dates out on the phone. If you would like to get together when I am on vacation, I can PM you my email address.

 Forgive late responses, I am far from home.

 Cheers,

 Bob


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the schematic. I'll look it over later when I've slept a bit and my mind is functioning at about 50%... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How's the brain function going now?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How's the brain function going now?_

 

It's been better but I'll look it over. When we take into account how many things I destroyed this morning by forgetting some ingredients I'm not making any promises...


----------



## spritzer

On a quick once over the only obvious omission are the output caps in the left schematic but they are present in the right so it isn't a big deal. I'll go over it a few more times.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On a quick once over the only obvious omission are the output caps in the left schematic but they are present in the right so it isn't a big deal. I'll go over it a few more times._

 

Oops. I also forgot to label the 150k series resistors for the output stage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops. I also forgot to label the 150k series resistors for the output stage._

 

Yep, just spotted that.


----------



## Carl

What's your thoughts on replacing the pentode's screen grid resistor with a voltage regulator tube, Birgir? Given the price NOS VR tubes like 0A2s go for it's only slightly more than a good resistor.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's your thoughts on replacing the pentode's screen grid resistor with a voltage regulator tube, Birgir? Given the price NOS VR tubes like 0A2s go for it's only slightly more than a good resistor._

 

They sure look a lot nicer then some boring old resistor. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It takes up a bit more space though.


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sure look a lot nicer then some boring old resistor. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It takes up a bit more space though._

 

Not much more so than a big wirewound, though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not much more so than a big wirewound, though._

 

True. How big (in Watts) is the stock resistor? It would be very cool to use these before a bias supply's ladder... 

 Btw. I spent the morning installing a new amp board in the KGSS and it appears to be working now. At least nothing has blown up yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was a bad diode in the old one and I had a fully repaired spare so it was easy to fix. I'm going to run a few tests but it appears to be working alright even though the PSU is a bit flaky...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I spent the morning installing a new amp board in the KGSS and it appears to be working now. At least nothing has blown up yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was a bad diode in the old one and I had a fully repaired spare so it was easy to fix. I'm going to run a few tests but it appears to be working alright even though the PSU is a bit flaky... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you have any fun parts rolling on it? I can just see you using Shinkous for all of the resistors.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you have any fun parts rolling on it? I can just see you using Shinkous for all of the resistors._

 

No partsrolling at all. It is just like I left it almost 4 years ago so it uses stock Vishay metal films and crappy wires. The PSU caps are also just some stock ones from Mouser as they were the testing caps for other amp I built. This one is basically the leftovers from that project and so are the parts I have for the third one. What can I say, I always buy enough... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The PSU is buggered even though it was working (well kind off) before I connected the amp chassis. The readings were a bit off on the busted line but all withing spec. Now it's completely dead so I guess I have some soldering to do...


----------



## AudioCats

Since everybody is talking about tube amps..... What kind of signal level is needed to drive the ECC99/5687? (signal voltage and current) 

 I am thinking about using two ECC99 per channle, (one push one pull), and wire each tube to SRPP config, will it work well?


----------



## Jama211

i really ought to read up more on the electronics of amplifiers so i can acctually understand half of this stuff lol. anyone know a good site?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since everybody is talking about tube amps..... What kind of signal level is needed to drive the ECC99/5687? (signal voltage and current) 

 I am thinking about using two ECC99 per channle, (one push one pull), and wire each tube to SRPP config, will it work well?_

 

The 5687 and ECC99 are different tubes with different pin outs, although they are electrically similar (they don't really sound that alike, though). 6N30Ps, 6CG7/6FQ7s and 6DJ8s are also fairly similar.

 I'm not sure on their exact op points, you'd best ask on diyaudio.com or something, unless you know how to make a loadline up from the tube curves (something I really need to upskill myself on).

 If you want to take the easy route you could always slap a simple differential stage onto the back of Peter Millet's ECC99 headphone amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since everybody is talking about tube amps..... What kind of signal level is needed to drive the ECC99/5687? (signal voltage and current) 

 I am thinking about using two ECC99 per channle, (one push one pull), and wire each tube to SRPP config, will it work well?_

 

You could also try something like this. It's nothing special but it shouldn't be expensive to build. You should definitely design your own if you want to but there are dozens of designs out there, though most are in Japanese.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 5687 and ECC99 are different tubes with different pin outs...
 If you want to take the easy route you could always slap a simple differential stage onto the back of Peter Millet's ECC99 headphone amp._

 

Thanks Carl, how differently do the Ecc99 and 5687 sound?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could also try something like this. It's nothing special but it shouldn't be expensive to build._

 

Thanks birgir.... wait, that circuit is asking for 20V signal input


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Carl, how differently do the Ecc99 and 5687 sound?_

 

I'm not sure if I can accurately quantify it. To me the 5687 rocks more. I don't have a lot of experience with the 99, though.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks birgir.... wait, that circuit is asking for 20V signal input 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's only a voltage gain of 10 from a CD player. Shove a bog standard common cathode stage in front of it and you can fix that easily enough.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure if I can accurately quantify it. To me the 5687 rocks more. I don't have a lot of experience with the 99, though._

 

The 99 is very musical and linear in the right circuit and the same goes for the 5687 but it is also a bit more dynamic with more kick to it. Both are excelent tubes. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's only a voltage gain of 10 from a CD player. Shove a bog standard common cathode stage in front of it and you can fix that easily enough._

 

I didn't even see that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This design has never interested me all that much so that might be the reason...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't even see that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This design has never interested me all that much so that might be the reason..._

 

For some reason I never did like that design, but stare as I might at it I can't for the life of me figure out why.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For some reason I never did like that design, but stare as I might at it I can't for the life of me figure out why._

 

I don't know why I never liked it. Could be the name...


----------



## ferrstein

Okay, so I think I finally have too much Stax stuff. I say this because I lost one of my SRM1/MkII amps. I can't find it anywhere. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess that's why I have a backup!


----------



## justin w.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/head3.htm

 Here is an interesting project for those here looking to DIY a Stax amp. I built this one a few years ago, but was losing all the gain across the string of gas tubes. Kevin said this didnt happen with his, so it could have been my tubes. I never bothered to try different ones. It's a neat project, the gas tubes dance to the bass.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, so I think I finally have too much Stax stuff. I say this because I lost one of my SRM1/MkII amps. I can't find it anywhere. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess that's why I have a backup! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah I have the same problem. It got so bad that I was buying models that I already had so I put up a list on the wall with all the models I'm going to buy and have marked of the ones I already have bought. I should really do the same with my amps and adapters as I'm always finding some stuff I didn't know I'd bought. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Still they are a good source of 6 pin sockets as I can't stand the Allied stuff. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/head3.htm

 Here is an interesting project for those here looking to DIY a Stax amp. I built this one a few years ago, but was losing all the gain across the string of gas tubes. Kevin said this didnt happen with his, so it could have been my tubes. I never bothered to try different ones. It's a neat project, the gas tubes dance to the bass._

 

Your tubes must have been faulty. It would be a cool amp but it needs bigger output tubes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The KGSS power supply would be an easy choice and make it an easy build for those of us with a stack of PCBs at our disposal. I need to buy some more IRFBC30s...


----------



## Andre Jute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since everybody is talking about tube amps..... What kind of signal level is needed to drive the ECC99/5687? (signal voltage and current) 

 I am thinking about using two ECC99 per channle, (one push one pull), and wire each tube to SRPP config, will it work well?_

 

You need to learn to use the spec sheets and transfer curves, both available off the net. Here is a sample of what you can learn by drawing lines on the tube's characteristic curves:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/112KISScurves.jpg

 More from the illustrations page of my KISS amp:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/KISS%20190.htm

 and description of how to use the information at Jute on Amps:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm

 HTH.

 Andre Jute
 Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey


----------



## ironbut

Carl;3174731 said:
			
		

> Any suggestions on EF86s and 5687s to try?
> 
> Funny you should ask this question. I'm in the middle of tube rolling some of these. I'm sure my application is pretty different than what your thinking about. Mine is a custom tape head preamp. Low, low noise is important so some of the tubes I've tried and rejected might work just fine for you.
> New production
> ...


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The other usual suspect that I have yet to try are the GEC Z729 ( I think?) super fine mesh silver plate that are fav's with Quad owners._

 

Yes, I was looking at those with interest. Silver mesh is enough to get me moist.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I was looking at those with interest. Silver mesh is enough to get me moist._


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Andre Jute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to learn to use the spec sheets and transfer curves, both available off the net. Here is a sample of what you can learn by drawing lines on the tube's characteristic curves:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/112KISScurves.jpg

 More from the illustrations page of my KISS amp:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/KISS%20190.htm

 and description of how to use the information at Jute on Amps:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm

 HTH.

 Andre Jute
 Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey_

 

Thanks, I am figuring out the tube stuff little by little, these links will certainlly sppeed up the learning process....


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Telefunken EF806s= legendary! When recording engineers talk about this tube for powering their mikes, they use hushed tones! ._

 






 now that, is some scary stuff......


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I was looking at those with interest. Silver mesh is enough to get me moist._

 

Ehhhhh ok..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Looks like a cool tube and it's definitely a contender. Those Telefunkens look nice as well...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/head3.htm

 Here is an interesting project for those here looking to DIY a Stax amp. I built this one a few years ago, but was losing all the gain across the string of gas tubes. Kevin said this didnt happen with his, so it could have been my tubes. I never bothered to try different ones. It's a neat project, the gas tubes dance to the bass._

 

Interesting link! Do you know if KG has ever designed tube rectified bipolar supplies for any of his amplifiers?


----------



## 19lexicon78

perhaps a stupid question, but i want to know.
 as you all know, buying stax from japan is far cheaper than here in europe.
 besides the amps, have the headphones also different specs?


----------



## spritzer

The amps and the headphones are the same. The amps are only named differently to clearly show gray market imports from Japan


----------



## 19lexicon78

ok,
 so the headphones can be plugged in every amp.
 buying also an amp in japan, i need a converter


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *19lexicon78* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok,
 so the headphones can be plugged in every amp.
 buying also an amp in japan, i need a converter_

 

The headphones can be used with any Stax amp or adapter (except the SRD-4 since it was for electret use only) ever made. You can pick up a used amp and buy new phones or the other way around. The new amps lack the older bias though so they can't be used with very old phones. 

 The amps use the same transformer whether they are the A or II model but Stax won't give out how to configure them for 120v/230v use. It can be done though but a good external transformer isn't the end of the world.


----------



## no1likesme

my lambdas need to get here faster... I HATE WAITING!


----------



## spritzer

The waiting game sucks big time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to receive a few phones and amps amps and then it's time to wait for the SR-007 Mk2. This has been/will be a very expensive summer...


----------



## no1likesme

THEY JUST GOT HERE!!! 

 first off these are by far the most comfortable headphones I have ever worn. I can already tell that I like the sound very much, I need to upgrade my source really badly.


----------



## spritzer

Congrats!!

 They are indeed very comfy but new earpads will increase it even more. You can buy them from Audio Cubes2. They are called SR-202 pads but they are really the original SR-Lambda pads.


----------



## Carl

Or he could just slap 404 pads on them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or he could just slap 404 pads on them._

 

True and they are much better quality but don't match the look. You know it's all about the look, right?


----------



## Carl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True and they are much better quality but don't match the look. You know it's all about the look, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I like it heteroclite.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Carl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like it heteroclite._

 

That does say quite a lot about you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I think that the post office is working against me by making sure my packages can't leave Japan. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My DAS-R1 hasn't even shipped yet because it's so heavy and all these adapters are really weighing down my packages. I'm even considering to ask Rinkya to throw them away for me or collect them into one shipment and use the cheapest method possible.


----------



## no1likesme

These have been glued to my head since I got them. I like the sound signature quite a bit better than my grado sr80 (even for rock so far). I have not found a genre that these do not do well with (that I listen to). I am really happy with these, and feel no urge to upgrade as of now (except my sound card). I can honestly say that I am a stax convert.


----------



## spritzer

They are one of my favorite headphones and do everything very well. You can open them up and remove the yellow fiber glass to change the sound signature quite a bit.


----------



## no1likesme

what does removing the fiberglass do to the sound?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what does removing the fiberglass do to the sound?_

 

The fiberglass diffuses part of the backwave (Stax radiate equal amounts of sound in both directions) and that hides some of the colorations present. If you remove it you will reveal the nasty top end "etch" but gain increased bass and dynamics and better midrange. The PRaT is also much better. It's easy to do, just lift up the 4 corners of each cup to reveal the screws and pull it out. Be careful with the foam lining of the earcup as it might disintegrate when you touch it and don't put to much stress on the cable ans the solder joints might break free. Easy to fix but a bit bothersome.


----------



## no1likesme

I may try that once the "newness" wears off and I get used to them. Also how much would they improove with a better amp? I am currently powering them with my cheap sony str-DE197.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I may try that once the "newness" wears off and I get used to them. Also how much would they improove with a better amp? I am currently powering them with my cheap sony str-DE197._

 

...or you could just buy a second set to mod, like I did... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The transformers aren't the best around but they will show you how good the poweramp is. That Sony is ok but you can certainly do better and not for a whole lot more. Some vintage model will be great and even some tube models will not be that expensive. 

 You can also upgrade the input wiring of the SRD-7 though you can't bypass the circuit board since it is a SB model. Some nice 24AWG silver wire will be a good choice.


----------



## evil-zen

Bought a pair of Harbeth Compact 7 instead of an Omega 1/2. Hehe but I'll check out the Stax thread from time to time...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bought a pair of Harbeth Compact 7 instead of an Omega 1/2. Hehe but I'll check out the Stax thread from time to time... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Those BBC derived monitors are the only dynamic speakers I can stand. If you are ever feeling adventurous, upgrade the caps in the crossover and the internal wiring. It's very British, i.e. frugal. 

 I've also been leaning towards speakers lately due to my research into high power direct drive ESL amps. It's kind of ironic that an amp fully capable of driving SR-007 can also be used to power most electrostatic loudspeakers directly.


----------



## audiod

Stax has officially announced a SR-007mk2 coming in October/November!!!!!!!!!
 Silver for Japan, Black for export.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has officially announced a SR-007mk2 coming in October/November!!!!!!!!!
 Silver for Japan, Black for export._

 

Very cool indeed. I didn't know about the color and Stax are very tight lipped about what the changes are. I'll try to get one (silver of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) as soon as I can and report back.


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has officially announced a SR-007mk2 coming in October/November!!!!!!!!!
 Silver for Japan, Black for export._

 

Do you have a link for the announcement?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have a link for the announcement?_

 

I do not want to reveal my source at this time, but it was from a Stax dealer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not want to reveal my source at this time, but it was from a Stax dealer._

 

They are the only source of information now. I guess it's about time for me to become the distributor for Stax up here in the frozen north... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. does anybody know what Stax SCC-1 is? A carrying case that costs nearly 300$?


----------



## Duggeh

For $300 it had better be a better case than the stock 4070/O2 one. Is it the same case though?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For $300 it had better be a better case than the stock 4070/O2 one. Is it the same case though?_

 

I have no idea. I haven't been able to find a picture anywhere.


----------



## Duggeh

My Omega 2 has been unplugged and the SRM-717 turned off for the better end of three weeks. I turned it on and plugged them in about 10 minutes ago but the volume is non-existant. I checked all my wiring and its fine and ive tried changing the interconnect and the power cord. The only way I get any sound is with the volume dial nearly to full.

 Anyway, im worried, any reassuring words for me are they just recharging or should I be getting sound out of the box anyway?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omega 2 has been unplugged and the SRM-717 turned off for the better end of three weeks. I turned it on and plugged them in about 10 minutes ago but the volume is non-existant. I checked all my wiring and its fine and ive tried changing the interconnect and the power cord. The only way I get any sound is with the volume dial nearly to full.

 Anyway, im worried, any reassuring words for me are they just recharging or should I be getting sound out of the box anyway?_

 

They should need some recharging but that is a bit extreme. Try plugging some other amp into the same source to see if the problem is there.


----------



## Duggeh

My diy portable amp and my AMT amp both work fine from the same cinch cable, I dont have the SRM-212 or SR-202 up here to do any troubleshooting that way. I think that i will be making a trip back home tomo to sort out whatever this is.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My diy portable amp and my AMT amp both work fine from the same cinch cable, I dont have the SRM-212 or SR-202 up here to do any troubleshooting that way. I think that i will be making a trip back home tomo to sort out whatever this is._

 

Try leaving them plugged in for about an hour playing music. I've not been using mine much for the last months but when I do they need an hour or more to come up to speed.


----------



## ericj

Found something odd/interesting today. 

 I went to go look at the lm4562 datasheet and clicked on the application notes instead. 

 I find that their app notes include an RIAA preamplifier and . . . a 'stat amp. 

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1651.pdf

 This looks very simple, very easy to build. 

 I know it's just an example circuit in a vendor's app note, but it was an odd find indeed, and i know some of you folks know your way around an electrostatic amplifier schematic. 

 So I'm curious, what do you make of it?


----------



## spritzer

Looks like a good budget amp though it doesn't swing a lot of voltage. The tube output option is a nice touch and makes this comparable to the Stax amps. Without knowing the Stax circuit off hand this could be pretty similar.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like a good budget amp though it doesn't swing a lot of voltage. The tube output option is a nice touch and makes this comparable to the Stax amps. Without knowing the Stax circuit off hand this could be pretty similar._

 

I think it's kinda interesting that the schematic shows their latest & greatest opamp driving a discontinued obsolete mosfet. Either it's a circuit they've put in many app notes over the years or the irf72 was just the only high-voltage mosfet symbol they had handy in their schematic drawing library. 

 Myself, i have a hard time dedicating the time to building a 'stat amp by hand when all I've got to drive with it is some mediocre stax electrets, one rather nice sony electret, and an ESP/9. At least, when looking at stuff like a KGSS. 

 But this thing looks single-weekend easy.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it's kinda interesting that the schematic shows their latest & greatest opamp driving a discontinued obsolete mosfet. Either it's a circuit they've put in many app notes over the years or the irf72 was just the only high-voltage mosfet symbol they had handy in their schematic drawing library. 

 Myself, i have a hard time dedicating the time to building a 'stat amp by hand when all I've got to drive with it is some mediocre stax electrets, one rather nice sony electret, and an ESP/9. At least, when looking at stuff like a KGSS. 

 But this thing looks single-weekend easy._

 

It does look like a fun amp to build but I would use 7n7's for outputs since they are very cheap, even NOS. 

 I guess they used the IRF72 because high voltage mosfets are rare and getting even rarer due to the flat panel insanity and CRT's falling out of favor. 

 Btw. they are back!


----------



## Duggeh

The O2 has returned from the uncharge-d dead. Thank heavens.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Found something odd/interesting today. 

 I went to go look at the lm4562 datasheet and clicked on the application notes instead. 

 I find that their app notes include an RIAA preamplifier and . . . a 'stat amp. 

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1651.pdf

 This looks very simple, very easy to build. 

 I know it's just an example circuit in a vendor's app note, but it was an odd find indeed, and i know some of you folks know your way around an electrostatic amplifier schematic. 

 So I'm curious, what do you make of it?_

 


 Now that circuit uses a LM317 as constant current source.....


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that circuit uses a LM317 as constant current source.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

heh, I saw a circuit recently that used a LM317 and a single resistor to ... feed a power LED


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that circuit uses a LM317 as constant current source.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They make reasonably good current sources. There are better current sources, but not for the money or parts count. 

 Unless I'm confused, it's pulling a tiny amount of current from the source pins of the mosfets. 

 That bottom power rail should be labeled -15V.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lvdunhill* 
_heh, I saw a circuit recently that used a LM317 and a single resistor to ... feed a power LED_

 

What's ironic there is that LEDs themselves are sometimes used as current sources. 

 I prefer to just measure the LED's voltage drop and do the math vs. the supply voltage - but some people apparently prefer the full belt & suspenders.


----------



## Ken B

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has officially announced a SR-007mk2 coming in October/November!!!!!!!!!
 Silver for Japan, Black for export._

 

Good to hear Stax is updating the Omega's. I think it is time for an updated 404 (lambda), don't you think?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ken B* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good to hear Stax is updating the Omega's. I think it is time for an updated 404 (lambda), don't you think?_

 

Most companies use their flagship model as a basis for lower priced models. Stax has surely recouped the engineering costs of the SR-007 and should start using some of it’s technology to come up with a replacement for the aging (almost 30 years old) Lambda series. Could you imagine a replacement for the 404 that is approaching the sound quality of the SR-007. I’m surprised that Stax would upgrade the SR-007 when it is almost unchallenged in the “High-End” arena and not take advantage of a O2 based upgrade for the Lambda series. Come on Stax it's time for you to help us audiophiles on a budget!


----------



## audiod

Audiogon has a auction with a Lambda Signature at $622 with 2 days left on the auction! Wow! Any guess as to what the final price will be?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 has returned from the uncharge-d dead. Thank heavens._

 

Good to know. The SR-007 is a pretty big capacitor and it takes awhile to charge. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most companies use their flagship model as a basis for lower priced models. Stax has surely recouped the engineering costs of the SR-007 and should start using some of it’s technology to come up with a replacement for the aging (almost 30 years old) Lambda series. Could you imagine a replacement for the 404 that is approaching the sound quality of the SR-007. I’m surprised that Stax would upgrade the SR-007 when it is almost unchallenged in the “High-End” arena and not take advantage of a O2 based upgrade for the Lambda series. Come on Stax it's time for you to help us audiophiles on a budget!_

 

Stax had no choice but to upgrade the SR-007 or they would have been thrown out of the European market. The finishing on the aluminum uses some chemicals that do not confirm with the ROHS directive so it had to be replaced. It was the same deal with the amp faceplates. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Audiogon has a auction with a Lambda Signature at $622 with 2 days left on the auction! Wow! Any guess as to what the final price will be?_

 

I suddenly have the urge to sell one of my Signatures... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The other Signature is basically a 404 in an old housing and a SR-007 case and people bid 508$ for that. Nuts...


----------



## ericj

Page Four?! Say it aint so!

 Anyway. I've ordered up the $8 or so worth of bits i need to try building that National app-note 'stat amp. Ironically I probably won't put lm4562's in it because i only have one that works from the three samples i paid $12 for, and i can only get them from digikey whereas i was ordering from mouser this time around owing to needing parts that digikey didn't have last time i ordered from them. Will probably stick in opa2107's. 

 I guess i should start figuring out a layout. Will be building it up with mosfet output for now. Substituting irf720b for irf72. If anybody has any better suggestions for 400v mosfets, I'm open to suggestions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Page Four?! Say it aint so!

 Anyway. I've ordered up the $8 or so worth of bits i need to try building that National app-note 'stat amp. Ironically I probably won't put lm4562's in it because i only have one that works from the three samples i paid $12 for, and i can only get them from digikey whereas i was ordering from mouser this time around owing to needing parts that digikey didn't have last time i ordered from them. Will probably stick in opa2107's. 

 I guess i should start figuring out a layout. Will be building it up with mosfet output for now. Substituting irf720b for irf72. If anybody has any better suggestions for 400v mosfets, I'm open to suggestions._

 

Damn Digikey. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mouser is much better and doesn't send all of my packages first to Israel like Allied does due to a bug in their checkout software... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Since solidstate really isn't my thing I can't remember any suitable Mosfets. I would still go with a 7n7 output since they are dirt cheap and a filament transformer is about 20$.


----------



## AudioCats

One question about the Mosfet selection: how do you know if it is good or bad for an audio circuit? Is the IRF734 good? bad? I am asking since I have 6 of them laying around, bought a while back for rainy days....


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One question about the Mosfet selection: how do you know if it is good or bad for an audio circuit? Is the IRF734 good? bad? I am asking since I have 6 of them laying around, bought a while back for rainy days.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have no flippin clue. 

 In high voltage parts they're pretty much always specified as "fast switching" and "for power supply" which doesn't mean that they're bad for audio - we just don't know. 

 I mean, electrostatic drivers aren't that huge of a market so we're not going to see an "excellent for audio" designation in a 400v part. 

 Fast is good. Hopefully the response is linear.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Sorry to drag you all away from this very erudite 'conversation', but I've been a chump and now need some help, whilst at the same time manifesting my clear lack of electronics knowledge.

 Earlier in this thread, I 'discussed' with others the possibility of bettering the power supply to my SRM-212. Sadly, in my experiments with alternative PSs, I managed to reverse the polarity and now the internal fuse has blown.

 It is about 15mm by 4 or 5mm, and marked 25V 1.5A (as far as I can see). My question is, where can I get a replacement fuse (I'm happy to solder the new one in), the problem is the rating: I can readily get 250V 1.6A fuses, but have no idea if the amperage rating is crucial and the voltage not, or what...

 Can I stick a 250V 1.6A fuse in instead (there's space for a standard 20mm one), or does anybody know where (preferably in the UK) I can get a pukka replacement?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One question about the Mosfet selection: how do you know if it is good or bad for an audio circuit? Is the IRF734 good? bad? I am asking since I have 6 of them laying around, bought a while back for rainy days.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The only real way to know is to try it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to drag you all away from this very erudite 'conversation', but I've been a chump and now need some help, whilst at the same time manifesting my clear lack of electronics knowledge.

 Earlier in this thread, I 'discussed' with others the possibility of bettering the power supply to my SRM-212. Sadly, in my experiments with alternative PSs, I managed to reverse the polarity and now the internal fuse has blown.

 It is about 15mm by 4 or 5mm, and marked 25V 1.5A (as far as I can see). My question is, where can I get a replacement fuse (I'm happy to solder the new one in), the problem is the rating: I can readily get 250V 1.6A fuses, but have no idea if the amperage rating is crucial and the voltage not, or what...

 Can I stick a 250V 1.6A fuse in instead (there's space for a standard 20mm one), or does anybody know where (preferably in the UK) I can get a pukka replacement?_

 

It's always the amperage rating that is crucial but not the voltage but I could be wrong. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There could also be some over volt protection in there (shorts to ground?) but you should be fine using a normal 250v model in there. I'll do some research on this...

 Edit: I haven't found anything on these low voltage fuses ion all of my usual sources. I guess you should try a 250v model.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's always the amperage rating that is crucial but not the voltage but I could be wrong. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There could also be some over volt protection in there (shorts to ground?) but you should be fine using a normal 250v model in there. I'll do some research on this...

 Edit: I haven't found anything on these low voltage fuses in all of my usual sources. I guess you should try a 250v model._

 

Thanks, Birgir, but I'm a bit nervous to stick in a 250V fuse unless someone knows for sure it'll work: replacing the fuse in my 212 is one thing, but I don't want to have replace any components that get damaged as a result of my ignorance/incompetence!

 Edit: when I write 'work', I mean properly protecting the innards, not just letting juice through...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Birgir, but I'm a bit nervous to stick in a 250V fuse unless someone knows for sure it'll work: replacing the fuse in my 212 is one thing, but I don't want to have replace any components that get damaged as a result of my ignorance/incompetence!

 Edit: when I write 'work', I mean properly protecting the innards, not just letting juice through..._

 

I've never seen a voltage limiting fuse. When something happens inside the amp the fuse blows because of the extra current that is suddenly needed, while the voltage stays constant, or thereabouts. If the fuse is indeed protecting against somebody overvolting the amp then it also a triac or something similar and would have other markings. It could also be an automotive fuse, designed for 25v and there for doesn't have the necessary insulation for 250v duty.


----------



## Veniogenesis

I've been trying to figure out the answer to a question, but I haven't found anything conclusive.

 I'm wondering whether you can use the SRM-001 amplifier for powering normal-bias Staxes (with an adapter of course). From what I understand, the SRM-001 is pro-bias. But it apparently has an output voltage r.m.s. of 240 volts. Doesn't that mean that it can be used with normal-bias Staxes? Or am I wrong?

 Thanks so much!
 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## spritzer

The SRM-001 only has a Pro bias output so you would have to have something else that will give you the required +230v DC. An adapter with a separate bias plug will do the trick. The drive voltage is completely different form the bias voltage and the recommended maximum is double the bias voltage but your hearing will be a distant memory at that level. The drive voltage is dependent on the volume level (it's actually a combination of bias and drive voltages) so unless you accidentally turn on the amp with the volume knob turned up really high you will be fine. The normal bias units have protection diodes in place for something like that so it's almost impossible to destroy them.


----------



## Chu

Hello, I have a quick question I am having trouble finding an answer to.

 I am strongly tempted to get a SRS-2050a system (SR-202+SRM-252A) but have two quick questions.

 (1) Does the SRM-252a use RCA imputs? The wording is a little vauge on STAX's site.

 (2) Will this operate fine with the 120Vac power we have here in the US, or do I need to get a transformer? If so, any suggestions on which?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello, I have a quick question I am having trouble finding an answer to.

 I am strongly tempted to get a SRS-2050a system (SR-202+SRM-252A) but have two quick questions.

 (1) Does the SRM-252a use RCA imputs? The wording is a little vauge on STAX's site.

 (2) Will this operate fine with the 120Vac power we have here in the US, or do I need to get a transformer? If so, any suggestions on which?_

 

1) I does have RCA inputs as well as a second set of RCAs so you can pass on the signal to some other component. 

 2) I would advise against it. The 252 uses a simple 12v wall wart so if you use a 100v unit with 120v you are feeding the amp 20% over voltage in an amp the uses a lot of DC-DC converters is a pretty bad idea. You can easily get a suitable replacement from any electronics store and you might even get better performance to boot. More amps the better is the rule here but please note the polarity of the input.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello, I have a quick question I am having trouble finding an answer to.

 I am strongly tempted to get a SRS-2050a system (SR-202+SRM-252A) but have two quick questions.

 (1) Does the SRM-252a use RCA imputs? The wording is a little vauge on STAX's site.

 (2) Will this operate fine with the 120Vac power we have here in the US, or do I need to get a transformer? If so, any suggestions on which?_

 

If you buy your 2050 in the US it will come with a suitable mains adapter, which will be at the US voltage (120V?). Only if you buy from Japan will the voltage be incorrect and this will necessitate buying an alternative mains adapter, as spritzer suggests.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to drag you all away from this very erudite 'conversation', but I've been a chump and now need some help, whilst at the same time manifesting my clear lack of electronics knowledge.

 Earlier in this thread, I 'discussed' with others the possibility of bettering the power supply to my SRM-212. Sadly, in my experiments with alternative PSs, I managed to reverse the polarity and now the internal fuse has blown.

 It is about 15mm by 4 or 5mm, and marked 25V 1.5A (as far as I can see). My question is, where can I get a replacement fuse (I'm happy to solder the new one in), the problem is the rating: I can readily get 250V 1.6A fuses, but have no idea if the amperage rating is crucial and the voltage not, or what...

 Can I stick a 250V 1.6A fuse in instead (there's space for a standard 20mm one), or does anybody know where (preferably in the UK) I can get a pukka replacement?_

 

I did pretty much exactly the same thing with my SRM-252. It also had a 1.5A fuse although I must admit I didn't take a close look at the voltage rating. That said, according to the standards those voltages are maximum rating and the fuse will perform correctly for an voltage less that that value so a 250V will be fine. For my amp all I could find were 1.6A 250V fuses too so I bought a pack of 10. I haven't got around to trying them yet so I can't give any concrete results. I'm 100% sure it will allow the amp to work, it will pass more current after all but that isn't exactly what you want a fuse to do. If the AC adapter did try to pass 1.6A through the amp I am concerned that the extra 100mA might be enough to kill the amp rather than the fuse. I figured I'd take the chance personally.


----------



## ast

*Question for all you O2 owners:


 My brand new O2 has a fairly loud noise, like static noise, when I press the drivers to my ears. Even a gentle push can result such noise. Anybody know if this is normal? If not where should I go for repair?


 thanks!*


----------



## [AK]Zip

It is normal. There should be a paper that explain it that came with your O2's if you bought them new. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 -Alex-


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Question for all you O2 owners:


 My brand new O2 has a fairly loud noise, like static noise, when I press the drivers to my ears. Even a gentle push can result such noise. Anybody know if this is normal? If not where should I go for repair?


 thanks!*_

 

The 'fart' noise is perfectly normal, and according to Stax it will not damage the headspeakers. As written on this piece of paper that followed my SR-007.


----------



## ast

*Thanks Alex and Krmathis !!!*

 I am really enjoying the O2 as I'm typing this post


----------



## Veniogenesis

Very nice setup there, ast. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cheers!


 So I have recently gotten the urge to somehow acquire an Omega II in the future. The problem will probably be the amplifier. Here is my question.

 If I use the SRD-7 transformer boxes, do you guys have any idea on many watts in an amplifier I will need for the Omega II?


----------



## spritzer

I use a 40w unit and that is way too much power. The volume knob never goes above 9 o'clock on a relatively low gain amp so 10w should be plenty.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a 40w unit and that is way too much power. The volume knob never goes above 9 o'clock on a relatively low gain amp so 10w should be plenty._

 

Very nice. Thanks for help again! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, another question, haha. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone know how to defoam the SR-X MKIII? I don't quite know how to open it up. I know a few people have defoamed SR-Xs.

 Thanks and cheers!
 Venio

 P.S. Spritzer, your amp is 40 watts per channel right (as opposed to 20Wx2, that is)?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a 40w unit and that is way too much power. The volume knob never goes above 9 o'clock on a relatively low gain amp so 10w should be plenty._

 


 iirc the SRD-7 docs actually say that the maximum handling is 7 watts continuous / 11 peak.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iirc the SRD-7 docs actually say that the maximum handling is 7 watts continuous / 11 peak._

 

Interesting, I see. Thanks for the tip, ericj!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very nice. Thanks for help again! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, another question, haha. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone know how to defoam the SR-X MKIII? I don't quite know how to open it up. I know a few people have defoamed SR-Xs.

 Thanks and cheers!
 Venio

 P.S. Spritzer, your amp is 40 watts per channel right (as opposed to 20Wx2, that is)?_

 

Remove the headband (pull the forks apart) and the supports are screws. Remove them and the earpads and the metal shell drops off (might be some hesitation, so pull on it). Behind it is the baffle with 3 small screws, remove them and you are in. When you remove the faux fiberglass, keep the nylon mesh in place as it keeps the dust out. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iirc the SRD-7 docs actually say that the maximum handling is 7 watts continuous / 11 peak._

 

That is correct but who runs their amp at full output?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... but who runs their amp at full output?_

 

Spinal Tap?


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remove the headband (pull the forks apart) and the supports are screws. Remove them and the earpads and the metal shell drops off (might be some hesitation, so pull on it). Behind it is the baffle with 3 small screws, remove them and you are in. When you remove the faux fiberglass, keep the nylon mesh in place as it keeps the dust out._

 

Very nice! That worked wonderfully. Thanks so much yet again! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## spritzer

Opening up the backwave will show you how they really sound and that the fiberglass was there for a reason. Still you might like them like this...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spinal Tap?_

 

Well if it goes up to 11....


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Opening up the backwave will show you how they really sound and that the fiberglass was there for a reason. Still you might like them like this..._

 

Sorry about the confusion, but which part is the fiberglass?


----------



## jjhatfield

So I've been thinking about delving into the wonderful world of high end electrostats, and in spending the better part of my evening cranking some live King Crimson through my HD650 and perusing this thread, I stumble upon mention of an O2*MKII*? What is this insanity? Is there any word as to what the MKII is all about?


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've been thinking about delving into the wonderful world of high end electrostats, and in spending the better part of my evening cranking some live King Crimson through my HD650 and perusing this thread, I stumble upon mention of an O2*MKII*? What is this insanity? Is there any word as to what the MKII is all about?_

 


 rumor from a Chinese headphone site, Omega II Mk2 spy photos:
 (no mention of when it will come though)


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_rumor from a Chinese headphone site, Omega II Mk2 spy photos:
 (no mention of when it will come though)









_

 

Oh My Freakin God they do look nice !!! Now if we could find out if there is going to be any internal changes.


----------



## Icarium

I would think there are. I mean there already are Black O2s and they aren't called Mk1.5 or anything so it seems like there already is precedence that a mere cosmetic change doesn't justify a change in model name.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would think there are. I mean there already are Black O2s and they aren't called Mk1.5 or anything so it seems like there already is precedence that a mere cosmetic change doesn't justify a change in model name._

 

It would seem that way, but STAX has always been a bit of a strange company.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The rumor was that they were implementing some changes but so far nothing concrete has come out.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would seem that way, but STAX has always been a bit of a strange company.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The rumor was that they were implementing some changes but so far nothing concrete has come out._

 

Basic design of the electrostatic element is the same as the SR-007 but its shape is slightly different. Cable quality & material remains the same. Cable connection to headphone body has been improved. Sheep skin is used for earpads. Earpads frame design is changed for more comfort. I should have USA pricing soon. They should be available in the USA in October/November. I already placed my order.


----------



## educator

Are the MK1 007's going to be discontinued?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the MK1 007's going to be discontinued?_

 

I was told that the SR-007 will stay in production for 30 days after the production of the Mk2 starts then the SR-007 production will stop. When the SR-007 sells out its gone forever. If you would like to have a SR-007 I would order it soon. Many Stax fans that order the Mk2 will probably keep their SR-007's.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basic design of the electrostatic element is the same as the SR-007 but its shape is slightly different. Cable quality & material remains the same. Cable connection to headphone body has been improved. Sheep skin is used for earpads. Earpads frame design is changed for more comfort. I should have USA pricing soon. They should be available in the USA in October/November. I already placed my order._

 

Sounds good, thanks for the info. Since you have already placed your order, any idea on an MSRP/retail? Hopefully not anymore expensive then they already are...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds good, thanks for the info. Since you have already placed your order, any idea on an MSRP/retail? Hopefully not anymore expensive then they already are..._

 

I was told that the pricing is going to similar to the SR-007, but may be slightly higher.

 I was also told that the Lambda series and 4070 will stay unchanged at this time. I think that the Lambda series is in a bigger need of an upgrade than the SR-007 IMO. Maybe next year.


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I think that the Lambda series is in a bigger need of an upgrade than the SR-007 IMO._

 

I agree. Even a retrograde might be better


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that the pricing is going to similar to the SR-007, but may be slightly higher.

 I was also told that the Lambda series and 4070 will stay unchanged at this time. I think that the Lambda series is in a bigger need of an upgrade than the SR-007 IMO. Maybe next year._

 

Stax has been selling the high end lineup for 180000Yen since '93 so they have a price to meet but I'm told it might be a bit higher. Stax is basically fixing a few of the issues documented over the 9 year lifespan of the SR-007. The cables tended to break because the strain relief wasn't flexible enough so the cable took the force and broke over time. The plate underneath the earpads was a problem for people with slightly larger then normal ears so they have moved it back and increased the earpad height. 

 The Lambda needs a new housing. Badly... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The current drivers are much better then any of the previous versions but they only reveal further how outdated the housing really is. They should have replaced it back in 1987 when the Signature was released because it was open backed and finally revealed the truth but they just made it out of slightly better plastic. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm certain that the Signature drivers in a well designed enclosure will send the He90 packing for even the most hardcore HE90 fan.


----------



## Veniogenesis

The news regarding the Omega II mkII is exciting. They look *beautiful*. Looks somewhat like a wonderfully comfortable and large SR-X. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I should buy one of these as next large upgrade.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm certain that the Signature drivers in a well designed enclosure will send the He90 packing for even the most hardcore HE90 fan._

 

Wow, really. Would you even say the Signature drivers are better than the OII drivers? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Haha, just kidding. Or... maybe...?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, really. Would you even say the Signature drivers are better than the OII drivers? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Haha, just kidding. Or... maybe...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, no not by a long shot and the HE90 drivers are also better but the Signature drivers have a lighter coating material on the same 1um film but with much more excursion capabilities. That gives you more bass and also better treble and that sweet Stax midrange. Designing the right housing might be a bit of a challenge though.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has been selling the high end lineup for 180000Yen since '93 so they have a price to meet but I'm told it might be a bit higher. Stax is basically fixing a few of the issues documented over the 9 year lifespan of the SR-007. The cables tended to break because the strain relief wasn't flexible enough so the cable took the force and broke over time. The plate underneath the earpads was a problem for people with slightly larger then normal ears so they have moved it back and increased the earpad height._

 

So basically the changes are focused on increased durability and comfort, rather then on changing the sound at all. This is a good thing! If I decide to pick one up I'll wait for the MK2. I love the black look as well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So basically the changes are focused on increased durability and comfort, rather then on changing the sound at all. This is a good thing! If I decide to pick one up I'll wait for the MK2. I love the black look as well._

 

There might be some difference to the sound due to the redesign inside the earpad but they are basically just fixing some issues. They had to change the finish due to the ROHS crap. 

 The black is cool but I have a silver one reserved...


----------



## ast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..........
 The black is cool but I have a silver one reserved... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 so they are taking orders now?! What does the silver version look like?


----------



## ironbut

So is reserved one step before "preordered"? 
 BTW I spoke to Craig from Eddie Current at the Nor-Cal meet ( fantastic meet BTW) this weekend and asked him if he ever thought of building an amp for 'stats. He said he'd been thinking about one. He also said he was considering building an 845 amp too! Now, all we have to do is make them one in the same!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so they are taking orders now?! What does the silver version look like?_

 

Argh, indeed, we need some photos! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, for those who have the SRM-T1, how far do you think the SRM-T1 can go after modifications? Good or still just average? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I know this is probably a difficult question to put in a frame of reference. Hmm...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_rumor from a Chinese headphone site, Omega II Mk2 spy photos:
 (no mention of when it will come though)









_

 

Looks nice!
 Not too different from todays SR-007BL. But I am certainly up for one if there are any internal changes.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the Lambda series is in a bigger need of an upgrade than the SR-007 IMO. Maybe next year._

 

So do I!
 I think that the Lambda series are in desperate need of a new, more solid, housing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so they are taking orders now?! What does the silver version look like?_

 

My sources are just taking care of a good customer, i.e. me and they owe me a couple of favors... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's basically like the SR-007BL but the silver is polished like on the amps. I've not yet seen a picture of the finished version but there was a picture of the prototype awhile back. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is reserved one step before "preordered"? 
 BTW I spoke to Craig from Eddie Current at the Nor-Cal meet ( fantastic meet BTW) this weekend and asked him if he ever thought of building an amp for 'stats. He said he'd been thinking about one. He also said he was considering building an 845 amp too! Now, all we have to do is make them one in the same!_

 

Reserved means I will get one when I want. I will probably get one of the first released, unless a mint unit of the few phones I actually want comes up and I have to fight the crazy Japanese Stax collectors for it. It will be hard enough to unplug the SR-Ω. 

 It will be great to have a commercial 845 amp but I seriously doubt it will satisfy my insanity... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If he pulls it off and uses a good driver(s) it should kill the ES-1. 

 Mine is progressing as planned but I've probably dropped the balanced inputstage in favor of single ended with transformer phase splitting all done in the name of simplicity. Add to that the 572 drivers for a very hot amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Argh, indeed, we need some photos! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, for those who have the SRM-T1, how far do you think the SRM-T1 can go after modifications? Good or still just average? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I know this is probably a difficult question to put in a frame of reference. Hmm..._

 

You can take it quite far with a few simple mods but you will never overcome the inferior circuit design and the limitations of the tubes. The power supply is a sub par at


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can take it quite far with a few simple mods but you will never overcome the inferior circuit design and the limitations of the tubes. The power supply is a sub par at_

 

Hmm, yeah. Problem being I'm not quite sure which way to go if I buy a Omega II mkII
 1. Keep the SRM-T1 and make modifications
 2. Sell the SRM-T1, get a nice power amp and a transformer (SRD-7 or better) or even make a custom DIY transformer.


----------



## spritzer

Oops, didn't really finish that part of the post. Way to much to type in a short time... 

 The T1 will never be a good choice for any of the tougher loads (Sigmas, Omegas, 4070) as the bass is flabby and loose and the highs have no sparkle. There is a T1W on it's way to me but I'm sure it will sound like the T1S I had here and that is a slight step down from the T1 in clarity. 

 A transformer driven by a nice vintage amp will have more power and control but you do loose some detail and the sound can become a bit "forced" on the wrong amp. The dynamics are greater and they will still sound great. You could also buy an old push-pull tube amp and have somebody knowledgeable put in a bypass switch and a Stax socket before the output transformer so you can connect the phones OTL. It would become a poor mans ES-1. 

 Btw. why I like vintage amps is because they were supposed to be used with LPs and have lower gain so you can use more travel on the volume control into the easy load of a SRD-7.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A transformer driven by a nice vintage amp will have more power and control but you do loose some detail and the sound can become a bit "forced" on the wrong amp. The dynamics are greater and they will still sound great. You could also buy an old push-pull tube amp and have somebody knowledgeable put in a bypass switch and a Stax socket before the output transformer so you can connect the phones OTL. It would become a poor mans ES-1. Btw. why I like vintage amps is because they were supposed to be used with LPs and have lower gain so you can use more travel on the volume control into the easy load of a SRD-7._

 

Ah ha, that has been what I've thinking about. Perhaps that is indeed the best way to go. Thank again for the advice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, btw, is push-pull a requirement?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah ha, that has been what I've thinking about. Perhaps that is indeed the best way to go. Thank again for the advice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, btw, is push-pull a requirement?_

 

Push-pull is required since electrostatics are p-p devices (two stators, one + the other -) but that is only required for direct drive. When you go through the transformers they produce the p-p form a single ended source i.e. transformer phase splitting, so you can use any amp you'd like.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Push-pull is required since electrostatics are p-p devices (two stators, one + the other -) but that is only required for direct drive. When you go through the transformers they produce the p-p form a single ended source i.e. transformer phase splitting, so you can use any amp you'd like._

 

Ah ha, right right. That makes sense. Thanks.


----------



## jim5102

Hi everybody, first I will apologize if this message is in the wrong place. I have done a search but can’t seem to find the info I need. I have recently received a pair of Stax SR-X Mark 3 headphones which I have been told were very good in their day. The problem is the cable has a 6 pin connector and I believe I need some kind of adapter. I have searched the internet and most or all Stax have a box to connect the headphones. My question is, are these headphones worth the expense of refurbishment. Are they worth anything at all without the adapter? The person I got the phones from is going to look for the adapter, but I won’t hold my breath. Any information or help would be much appreciated.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jim5102* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax SR-XMark 3_

 

Welcome to Head-Fi, and the world of electrostatic headphones.

 The SR-X/MK3 is a Normal bias 'phone, which use a 6 pin connector.
 You need an adapter box, like the SRD-7 (or 6) to use it. Alternatively a dedicated amplifier, like the SRM-1/MK2. Beware that all current Stax 'phones are Pro bias, using a 5 pin connector. Normal bias = 230 volt. Pro bias = 580 volt.

 Hope the person find the adapter, so you can give them a try. If not, you can always buy an adapter or sell the 'phones...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jim5102* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax SR-X Mark 3_

 

Further to Kai's reply, and in case you are confused, you will need a SRD-6 or SRD-7 transformer box, which connects to your amplifier's speaker outputs. These are quite often available (on their own) on eBay, although are usually sold with an SR-X or SR-5 earspeaker.

 As Kai says, you can also use a dedicated amp, such as an SRM-1/Mk2, which has a 6-pin, normal bias output, and which takes a signal from your amp's tape output (or even direct from any line-level source) but no Stax earspeaker (as they/we call them) will plug into a conventional 3.5mm or 6.5mm headphone socket.


----------



## webbie64

Jim,

 Welcome to Head-Fi.

 I've sent you a PM offering to loan you my back-up SRD-6SB box that the posts are referring to: "you will need a SRD-6 or SRD-7 transformer box, which connects to your amplifier's speaker outputs."

 Of course that's assuming your mate can't find his one for you and, of course, that we can identify where you are (I'm in Australia) and figure if the return shipping would be worth it for you to hear them. Obviously some feedback would be helpful in establishing trust but PM me if you need to consider the offer.

 Hope you enjoy the Head-Fi experience and that you somehow get to hear the joy of electrostatics.


----------



## jim5102

Cheers lad's, I don't really know if it's worth it or not, the phones look quite old to me even though they look in good condition. I'll look out for the correct unit maybe on Ebay or probably sell them on. Many Thanks for your replies


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jim5102* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers lad's, I don't really know if it's worth it or not, the phones look quite old to me even though they look in good condition. I'll look out for the correct unit maybe on Ebay or probably sell them on. Many Thanks for your replies_

 

Don't be fooled by their old-style looks: the SR-X Mk3 is a definite collector's item, and not without reason. If you can get them working (I'd recommend a transformer box and a good amp to drive it, as previously mentioned), you'll be astonished at how lively they can sound. If you can find a suitable transformer box on its own, it should about 40~50GBP/80~100USD.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jim5102* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers lad's, I don't really know if it's worth it or not, the phones look quite old to me even though they look in good condition. I'll look out for the correct unit maybe on Ebay or probably sell them on. Many Thanks for your replies_

 

The SR-X/MK3 was introduced in 1975, and probably in production until mid 1980's. So they are indeed old.
 But don't be fooled by their age and looks. If you get hold of a matching transformer box you might be surprised about their sound quality. Not on par with the current Stax line, but imo it beat many of the current popular dynamic headphones.

 As 'Johnny Blue' say, they are collector's item for a reason...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jim5102* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers lad's, I don't really know if it's worth it or not, the phones look quite old to me even though they look in good condition. I'll look out for the correct unit maybe on Ebay or probably sell them on. Many Thanks for your replies_

 

They are definitely worth a cheap energizer and some new earpads. They were one of the most popular models Stax ever made and there is a good reason for that, they sound great.


----------



## scompton

I have the SR-5 which is the same vintage and they sound fantastic. Supposedly, the SR-X sounds even better. The only problem I can see for some people with the SR-5 is that the bass rolls off fairly high. If you're a bass head, they're not for you.


----------



## spritzer

While I wouldn't call them bass heavy but they are pretty good while driven by the Blue Hawaii...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While I wouldn't call them bass heavy but they are pretty good while driven by the Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I believe you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They have pretty good bass out of the SRM-007t as well. Especially after I put some fresh earpads on them...


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While I wouldn't call them bass heavy but they are pretty good while driven by the Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Typical head-fi, a $2000 amp to drive $75 headphones
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . I went for the SR-5 because it was cheap


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They have pretty good bass out of the SRM-007t as well. Especially after I put some fresh earpads on them..._

 

All 'stats benefit from a better amp but the earpads are even more important. I shudder to think how many of those who have auditioned the SR-007 listened to a pair with worn earpads... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That will make them sound like poo...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All 'stats benefit from a better amp but the earpads are even more important. I shudder to think how many of those who have auditioned the SR-007 listened to a pair with worn earpads... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That will make them sound like poo..._

 

I fully agree that earpads make a huge difference.
 My local Stax dealer have a SR-007 on display, which I auditioned before I bought mine. I wont be surprised if they have had this pair on display since the 1997 release, cause its totally worn out. It sound different than my relative fresh pair...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I fully agree that earpads make a huge difference.
 My local Stax dealer have a SR-007 on display, which I auditioned before I bought mine. I wont be surprised if they have had this pair on display since the 1997 release, cause its totally worn out. It sound different than my relative fresh pair..._

 

The pads will only last about 3 years with low to medium use so 10 years is a bit too much. When they have lost that little bit of stiffness it's time to replace them.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads will only last about 3 years with low to medium use so 10 years is a bit too much. When they have lost that little bit of stiffness it's time to replace them._

 

Hadn´t considered this to be important - but of course it makes sense.
 How do you go about changing the pads ? 

 I can see that Audiocubes can supply them, but how is the procedure
 performed ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hadn´t considered this to be important - but of course it makes sense.
 How do you go about changing the pads ? 

 I can see that Audiocubes can supply them, but how is the procedure
 performed ?

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Replacing them is a bit tricky and hard to explain but I'll give it a try. This isn't made any easier by the fact you cant remove the earpieces from the arc assembly. 

 You simply pull the old ones off so that's the easy part. There is a metal ring attached to the metal plate the pads rest against and that goes into the inner flange of the pads. You can pull the ring right off so do that. Now that the ring is in place and it can move freely inside the flange (so the pad can rotate) start to pull the outer flange over the edge of the metal plate and into the groove between it and the housing. It's a very tight fit but with some patience and some minor injuries to your hands you'll pull it off. It's good practice to press the pad down in one place with one hand and use the other to pull the leather into the groove, working your way around the phones. When they are in place, turn them multiple turns so that they are settled. 

 You might have to experiment with the exact placement of the metal ring as it can come into contact with your ear so please do that before pulling the pad over...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Replacing them is a bit tricky and hard to explain but I'll give it a try._

 

Thanks Birgir.
 These guidelines will come handy when I need to replace the earpads sometimes in the future.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can see that Audiocubes can supply them, but how is the procedure performed ?_

 

Beware that Audio Cubes II only have the brown colored earpads.
 I learned the hard way as I ordered black earpads (as stated on their website at that time) for my black Omega II, and received brown pads...


----------



## luvdunhill

can anyone give me some pointers on removing the inner piece that covers the drivers on a Koss ESP-950? I want to get access to where the cable attaches to the stator and I've applied a lot of force to the piece with the (decrepit) "grill cloth", but that thing won't budge.


----------



## luvdunhill

Alex said there are some screws holding it on and ....... yup there are


----------



## edstrelow

Once the screws are out the back comes off and everything is clear.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once the screws are out the back comes off and everything is clear._


----------



## luvdunhill

okay, well, I had to pull off the sticky foam as it was seriously deteriorating. There was a lot of fine "foam dust" still stuck to the thin crinkly plastic layer and all I could do is brush it carefully until most of it came off. See above pics for the de-foamed version. I didn't see an obvious way to get this plastic off, and am not really sure that this would be wise. Is this layer really just to stop dust attraction, or does it have a sonic or safety purpose as well? The plastic is kinda loud and annoying, that's why I ask.

 In one of the cups there was a definite rattling, and rummaging around produced two star washers. I couldn't for the life of me determine where they came from ... ideas?

 Also, I have two close-ups of the wiring. The center cable is obviously the bias in both cases. the wire on the right connects to the front stator (meaning the one closest to the ear), seen best in the fifth picture above. As for determining a Stax amplifier compatible pin-out, is phase important here? I'd assume the right wire is the negative and the left is the positive, but only one cup had these color coded. In this case, red was the left wire and green was the right. Any ideas here?

 Finally, these pads are pretty foul. Any ideas on some velour pads that just might fit these headphones?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, I have two close-ups of the wiring. The center cable is obviously the bias in both cases. the wire on the right connects to the front stator (meaning the one closest to the ear), seen best in the fifth picture above. As for determining a Stax amplifier compatible pin-out, is phase important here? I'd assume the right wire is the negative and the left is the positive, but only one cup had these color coded. In this case, red was the left wire and green was the right. Any ideas here?_

 

luvdunhill,
 I used the extension cable that comes with the ESP-950 and put a Stax 5 pin connector on it. The 950's sound great with my SRM-007t, SRM-717 and SRM-1mk2 pro. PM me with your email address and I will send you the pinout for Stax and ESP-950's.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Thanks for the pics Marc. 

 The stator closer to the ears is marked + by Stax and you should connect it like that to have correct phase. 

 The plastic is a dustcover and you can remove it but you might encounter some dust problems i.e. shorts and arcs. 

 You can get new pads from Koss but I'm not aware of any other pads that will fit. Velour pads do not work with electostats as they leak too much and need leather or vinyl sides like the He60/90 pads.


----------



## AudioCats

where can I get Stax jacks and plugs? Either 5 or 6 pin. Any source in the US for these parts?

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Allied Electronics part numbers

 78-S6S is the socket
 86-71-6S is the plug

 Both are 6 pin but the plug is easy to convert.


----------



## luvdunhill

audiocats:

 I'll probably be ordering a few and could send you some if you'd like to split shipping. Just PM me. However, I believe they're currently sold out of the females...


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks birgir, they are a lot cheaper than I thought (was expecting something like $10 each).

 luvdunhill, if I add my order to yours, my stuff will have to be shipped twice (allied to you, then you to me), the final shipping will probably be the same for me. I think I will order direct when the jacks are available again. Thanks though.







 .


----------



## spritzer

There is another version of the socket here but it's much more expensive and also sold out.


----------



## AudioCats

now if I want to make the jacks myself, what material should I use? will teflon and polycarb be better than phenolic? The hard part is to find contacts for the jack, I don't want to take apart a tube socket just to get contacts. Plug contact can use heavy gauge silver wire. 

 By the way, I supposed the ESP10 plug will fit a Stax 5-pin socket, correct?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_now if I want to make the jacks myself, what material should I use? will teflon and polycarb be better than phenolic? The hard part is to find contacts for the jack, I don't want to take apart a tube socket just to get contacts. Plug contact can use heavy gauge silver wire. 

 By the way, I supposed the ESP10 plug will fit a Stax 5-pin socket, correct?_

 

Basically any plastic will do and you could also use wood. I've used teflon, hot glue, phenolic and wood but that's just what was at hand. The molex connectors that are used in computers are a good source for contacts as I had hundreds of them. 

 The ESP10 plug is the same and the socket Koss used for both ESP9 and 10 is actually the same as Allied is selling.


----------



## AudioCats

so the socket material won't cause that famous teflon time-smear problem?


----------



## spritzer

The use of teflon is unavoidable in any high voltage application (you could use silicone rubber but it's rare and hard to get) and the impact is much more noticeable at line level. I guess the teflon responds better to the higher voltage


----------



## Elephas

Hey, it's been 20 hours since the previous post.

 Where's the Stax Mafia?


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, it's been 20 hours since the previous post.

 Where's the Stax Mafia?_

 









 One question for the hardcore Stax users, please. How do you know, in case of current Lambda series phones, that your pads are worn out and need to be replaced? Do they get too soft, too thin, anything like that? 

 And very important: what are the sonic consequences of worn out pads? I read this phenomenon is very important in O2 case, what about the 202/303/404? ANYTHING TO DO WITH LOOSING BASS?


----------



## spritzer

We are all on holiday but we should have something new to talk about soon... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambda pads loose the softness or start to break up and then need to be replaced. They hold their shape much better then the SR-007 pads so they don't loose as much sound quality but new pads are always an improvement. They are even an improvement with the Sigma series which is kind of odd...


----------



## edstrelow

I finally got some musical sounds out of the Koss ESP 9 mated with a Stax amp, but I ended up using a high bias amp, the SRM-3. 

 Spritzer had suggested that there might not be enough bias in the low bias Stax amps and he is right. 

 Soundwise, the ESP9/SRM3 is not much to write about, reasonably balanced sound, still a bit anemic in dynamics and punch and maybe a bit of bass distortion on a few tracks. 

 The ESP 9 is much more musical from its own energizer. I wonder if the E9 could be running much higher bias voltages than the Stax amps. The schematic I posted on it some time back doesn't seem to show the voltages.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I finally got some musical sounds out of the Koss ESP 9 mated with a Stax amp, but I ended up using a high bias amp, the SRM-3. 

 Spritzer had suggested that there might not be enough bias in the low bias Stax amps and he is right. 

 Soundwise, the ESP9/SRM3 is not much to write about, reasonably balanced sound, still a bit anemic in dynamics and punch and maybe a bit of bass distortion on a few tracks. 

 The ESP 9 is much more musical from its own energizer. I wonder if the E9 could be running much higher bias voltages than the Stax amps. The schematic I posted on it some time back doesn't seem to show the voltages._

 

I hope you aren't running them unmodded straight into a Stax amp??? That will only result in fire. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Koss used a circuit to compensate for the closed back nature by running the phones pseudo single ended and thus decreasing the backwave. This does produce a different sound but I like the simple approach better. 

 I believe the bias to be around 460v but I've never measured it. I should dust off the VTVM and probe it but I simply can't find the time...


----------



## spritzer

Damn forgot to post what I was planning to say... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just got the Lambda Spirit package in the mail and these are probably the best 100$ I've ever spent! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Spirit package is the original Lambda Basic available only in Japan but it was also available later in Germany under the name Pro Classic. The headphones are a mixture of a Lambda with the rectangular housing but they have a Gamma headband. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. They were bundled with the SRM-Xh and while it isn't as good as the 212 it's a pretty nice amp. 

 They sound just like most of the Lambdas but I've yet to find any of the glaring faults associated with most models. There is the slight harshness but it isn't very pronounced but time will tell where these go in the line up. As of now they sound pretty much like a Pro bias SR-Lambda and that is very good in my book.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you aren't running them unmodded straight into a Stax amp??? That will only result in fire. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Koss used a circuit to compensate for the closed back nature by running the phones pseudo single ended and thus decreasing the backwave. This does produce a different sound but I like the simple approach better. 

 I believe the bias to be around 460v but I've never measured it. I should dust off the VTVM and probe it but I simply can't find the time..._

 

I am running them without the circuit boards that come in the cups, i.e. running the transducers directly from the Stax bias and signals.


----------



## luvdunhill

hm, looking for an electrostatic amp umbilical cable to connect my power supply(s) to the main signal chassis. I know the canonical part is probably a mil-spec amphenol connector of sorts, but I've been using the Neutrik SpeakOn connectors on my supplies of late with great success, but am not sure how it will handle high voltages. Here are the specs:

 Rated current per contact: 40 A rms continuous, duty cycle 50%
 Rated insulation voltage: 250 V ac
 Contact resistance after lifetime: < 2 mΩ
 Insulation resistance after dampheat: > 1 GΩ
 Dielectric strength: 4 kV peak

 so, my question is what's the difference in the rated insulation voltage and the dielectric strength here? There is an 8-pole version that could accommodate two bias lines, four power supply lines (including a +- 400 VDC line) and a few grounds as well.

 What are your thoughts as to the suitability of these connectors?

 Link:
http://www.neutrik.com/Secure30/getM...pplication/pdf


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am running them without the circuit boards that come in the cups, i.e. running the transducers directly from the Stax bias and signals._

 

Good to know. You scared me a little bit... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I suppose it's fine to run them at the higher Pro bias because it all depends on the combination of bias and drive voltages if the D/S gap is wide enough. I don't know if the Stax bias supply has enough juice for the Koss coating as it is metal based and thus more conductive then what Stax has used for the last 35 years.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I don't know if the Stax bias supply has enough juice for the Koss coating as it is metal based and thus more conductive then what Stax has used for the last 35 years._

 

I wonder if this is why I have to turn the volume up so much and yet they still sound a bit anemic?


----------



## edstrelow

It's been a good weekend for modding Koss phones. Thanks to Audiod's pin diagrams I finally made an adaptor to run the Koss 950 (not to be confused with the ESP9, above) from Stax high bias amps.

 The 950 sounds great on these amps. I am not sure that it is better than the Stax 404 but if it's not, it's close. And of course the 950 is, I believe somewhat underbiased by the Stax amps and is being run through an adaptor cord.

 I must do some detailed comparisons of the Stax and Koss amps running these phones as well as a comparison of the 404 and 950.


----------



## luvdunhill

edstrelow:

 This is good to know about the 950. I have one that I am planning on using with a Kevin Gilmore KGSS amplifier that I am in the process of building. I'd love to be kept up to date on which Stax headphone and amplifiers you have the chance of using and comparing the Koss 950 with! I'm very hopeful of this combination, especially for the price. I was also optimistic for the supplied energizer, but while I haven't passed a final verdict on it, it's not looking so good.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if this is why I have to turn the volume up so much and yet they still sound a bit anemic?_

 

The volume is mostly tied to the drive voltages and not the bias so the amp might not be powerful enough for them. More capacity spells death for the Stax energizers as they can't handle it but I only used the Blue Hawaii or a SRD-7 for testing so that might have hid the problem to me. The Koss transformers might have a pretty high turn ratio to give them a higher drive voltage. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been a good weekend for modding Koss phones. Thanks to Audiod's pin diagrams I finally made an adaptor to run the Koss 950 (not to be confused with the ESP9, above) from Stax high bias amps.

 The 950 sounds great on these amps. I am not sure that it is better than the Stax 404 but if it's not, it's close. And of course the 950 is, I believe somewhat underbiased by the Stax amps and is being run through an adaptor cord.

 I must do some detailed comparisons of the Stax and Koss amps running these phones as well as a comparison of the 404 and 950._

 

The difference in bias is about 3% so it doesn't matter. 

 According to Carl they are superior to the Lambdas but need a new cable to really shine. It's on my to-do list to buy a set and recable it...


----------



## luvdunhill

a few more comments. This Koss squeal that I've read about, well I've finally noticed it in one of my drivers. Perhaps the only reason I can hear it now is that I'm at work and have them turned down super low as they have basically no isolation. Is this an issue with the E/90? Will it go away after ditching the E/90? I wonder what Koss will say if I called them up about this ...

 Also, about the note on leather pads and electrostatics... is this universally accepted? (sorry Spritzer...) I mean, I've swapped out the pads on all my dynamic headphones to velour and feel that I get a better seal with them than the pleather versions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_a few more comments. This Koss squeal that I've read about, well I've finally noticed it in one of my drivers. Perhaps the only reason I can hear it now is that I'm at work and have them turned down super low as they have basically no isolation. Is this an issue with the E/90? Will it go away after ditching the E/90? I wonder what Koss will say if I called them up about this ..._

 

Does the sound come when you move around with the headphones on your head? Then it's probably one of the diaphragms venting and that happens to most 'stats at one time or the other. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, about the note on leather pads and electrostatics... is this universally accepted? (sorry Spritzer...) I mean, I've swapped out the pads on all my dynamic headphones to velour and feel that I get a better seal with them than the pleather versions._

 

This is all down to the design and how the drivers work. All electrostatic phones are designed to push against a certain amount of air so they have to be airtight around the ears. They will work with velour but you will loose a lot of information. Dynamic drive is vastly different because it moves so much air with so little fidelity compared to the small electrostatic forces we rely on. 

 I've never seen an electrostatic headphone with anything other then vinyl, artificial leather or real leather pads so this is a know design issue.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the sound come when you move around with the headphones on your head? Then it's probably one of the diaphragms venting and that happens to most 'stats at one time or the other._

 

well, the noise is present with zero volume, both using the wall wart and the battery pack. heh, I just tapped the top of the driver and it stopped 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 but, no I'm not moving around per se, just sitting here working. we'll see if it starts again!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, the noise is present with zero volume, both using the wall wart and the battery pack. heh, I just tapped the top of the driver and it stopped 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but, no I'm not moving around per se, just sitting here working. we'll see if it starts again!_

 

I get a squeal type sound from some of my cans just when I'm sitting here at the computer. It will largely depend on if you are moving your jaw and/or tilting your head so that the air pressure inside the the driver changes causing the air to escape through the small holes in the diaphragms.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_luvdunhill, if I add my order to yours, my stuff will have to be shipped twice (allied to you, then you to me), the final shipping will probably be the same for me. I think I will order direct when the jacks are available again. Thanks though._

 

AudioCats:

 I just talked with Allied. They said that 750 of the female connectors will be available on 10/8/2007.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_a few more comments. This Koss squeal that I've read about, well I've finally noticed it in one of my drivers. Perhaps the only reason I can hear it now is that I'm at work and have them turned down super low as they have basically no isolation. Is this an issue with the E/90? Will it go away after ditching the E/90? I wonder what Koss will say if I called them up about this ...

 ..._

 

Probably not much but they may offer to replace the unit. There were a lot of complaints about this some years back, but it can be fixed fairly easily.

 I am pretty sure I know what causes this as I had it many years ago and fixed my unit after the Koss replacement unit still squealed. The squeal is the result of a short from the large brass(? )electrode that is visible when the cups are opened, to the connecting cable, because the cable passes too close to the electrode when the earcup is reassembled. 

 How do I know? I opened the phones up in the dark and could see sparks travelling down the outside of the connecting cable which correllated with the squealing sound. I suspect any little dirt/grease or whatever is enough to create a pathway even on the plastic/rubber outside of the cord.

 Try to get the cord a bit further away from the electrode when the cup is reassembled. A couple of millimeters may do the trick.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AudioCats:

 I just talked with Allied. They said that 750 of the female connectors will be available on 10/8/2007._

 

Thanks! I will probably have to order half a dozen so I will have something to play with.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 by the way, is their shipping expensive?


----------



## edstrelow

I just put a mini-review comparing the Koss E90 vs Stax SRM3 amps running the Koss 950 phones.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=258802

 Basically I concluded:

 The most obvious initial difference was the wider and more stable soundstage of the Stax amp over the Koss amp. The Koss sounded like it had slightly more bass, probably about 100 Hz, but the bass was somewhat congested sounding. Deep bass seemed about the same with both and it seemed as if the treble was slightly rolled off on the Koss. The dynamics and punchiness seemed about the same with both amps, possibly the bass peak of the Koss gave it a little edge here, but at the cost of some transparency of sound.


----------



## AudioCats

Is there any source for thin diaphragm material in the US? and conductive coating too.....

 thanks


----------



## AudioCats

Can I use metalized film from inside a big motor start cap? Will it be too thick?

 My cheap "space blanket" is aluminumized and measures 10uM, too bad it is got wrinkles all over.....


----------



## Duggeh

I'd like to get an adapter cable to try running the TakeT H2 from a stax amplifier, that'd be male 4-pin XLR to the pro bias plug.

 Also I would like a similar adapter for the Jecklin Float electrostatic, which uses a hirshmann plug. So that'd be retermination of the Floats to the Stax plug, then an adapter stax female to hirshmann male. Or a hirshmann female to stax male. Best option though would be some sort of J-cord so that i can run the bias voltage from the Jecklin energiser and the driving voltage from the SRM-717.

 Who do you chaps recommend as the chap to see about making these. I would try to do it myself but my soldering isnt amazing and I also wouldnt have a clue about the right kind of wire to use (I guess zip cord wouldnt do and a stax extension cable is expensive) and dont have any extra plugs or sockets of this type anyway.


----------



## milkpowder

Alex might be able to help you with the plugs, sockets and cable. He's got a CNC machine


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ and dont have any extra plugs or sockets of this type anyway._

 

is it possible to buy extension cables for either of these headphones? if so, that's the best source of sockets... I'm assuming the bias requirements of the 'phones is equal to, or greater than the SRM-717?


----------



## Duggeh

According to Spritzer the bias voltage on the PS2 version is 1200volts, I have read 850 volts mentioned for the Float electrostatics somewhere too, but there were 3 versions of the headphone made. Either way, it's well higher than the Pro-Bias Stax, so to run them directly from a Stax amp is technically fine, however like running a pro bias stax from a normal bias socket, theres bound to be sonic effects, hence the desire to run bias from he transformer and drive from the 717.

 I actually have 2 female and 1 male Hirschmann sockets available to me as I re-terminated the Ergo AMT to 4pin XLR and do not use the filter switch for it anymore.

 Even so, the 717 may not actually push them any more effectively. I have the technically superior version of the PS2 energiser box with the double strength transformers.

 I was simply throwing my curiosity around.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any source for thin diaphragm material in the US? and conductive coating too.....

 thanks_

 

Try some of the Quad ESL repair sites as they will sell you both film and the coating. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I use metalized film from inside a big motor start cap? Will it be too thick?

 My cheap "space blanket" is aluminumized and measures 10uM, too bad it is got wrinkles all over....._

 

Metalized film isn't usable for electrostats as they rely on a constant charge circuit that uses resistivity to maintain the charge on the diaphragm. Metal is too conductive but it will produce sound but distortion can creep in. 

 Mylar has wrinkles in it but as you tension it, they smooth out. using the driver continues to smooth out tiny wrinkles so the driver do "run in". 

 10um is very thick even for speakers and I wouldn't use it. There will be noticeable HF roll-off and the drive force in headphones isn't strong enough for the weight.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to get an adapter cable to try running the TakeT H2 from a stax amplifier, that'd be male 4-pin XLR to the pro bias plug.

 Also I would like a similar adapter for the Jecklin Float electrostatic, which uses a hirshmann plug. So that'd be retermination of the Floats to the Stax plug, then an adapter stax female to hirshmann male. Or a hirshmann female to stax male. Best option though would be some sort of J-cord so that i can run the bias voltage from the Jecklin energiser and the driving voltage from the SRM-717.

 Who do you chaps recommend as the chap to see about making these. I would try to do it myself but my soldering isnt amazing and I also wouldnt have a clue about the right kind of wire to use (I guess zip cord wouldnt do and a stax extension cable is expensive) and dont have any extra plugs or sockets of this type anyway._

 

The TakeT adapter is easy to make and anyone with a Stax plug can do it but the Jecklin stuff is a bit harder to make. The Hirshmann connectors are almost impossible to find unless you find some NOS stock, most likely somewhere in Europe. 

 It's best use some teflon insulated wire and run it within a teflon tube or use some high voltage wire insulated with silicone rubber. You are safe with either choice but I'm pretty paranoid about the HV since I've been zapped so many times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_According to Spritzer the bias voltage on the PS2 version is 1200volts, I have read 850 volts mentioned for the Float electrostatics somewhere too, but there were 3 versions of the headphone made. Either way, it's well higher than the Pro-Bias Stax, so to run them directly from a Stax amp is technically fine, however like running a pro bias stax from a normal bias socket, theres bound to be sonic effects, hence the desire to run bias from he transformer and drive from the 717.

 I actually have 2 female and 1 male Hirschmann sockets available to me as I re-terminated the Ergo AMT to 4pin XLR and do not use the filter switch for it anymore.

 Even so, the 717 may not actually push them any more effectively. I have the technically superior version of the PS2 energiser box with the double strength transformers.

 I was simply throwing my curiosity around._

 

The Jecklins are a problem for the Stax amp since they are basically a Lambda multiplied by three. Three times the capacitance, the bias voltage and a much higher drive voltage. That will be a very tough load even if we do not factor in the lower drive voltages of the Stax amp. 

 The PS2 has a bias of +1200v and the transformers have 1:100 ratio compared to the 1:25 on the SRD-7 boxes so the drive voltages are much higher. Their capacitance is around 300pf, the 4070 is 110pf, and the 717 can't really drive them with any muscle so the PS2 will be a real challenge. You can drive them with the 717 but the amp won't like it.


----------



## Duggeh

Thanks for those numbers Spritzer you electrostatic guru. Ill kick the stax adapter cable idea off the radar. Maybe in a few years from now when I do the electrostatic amp thing ill get a Hirshmann socket put on it alongside all the other lovely things I'd dream up as features.

 On your commentary about the hard load of the Jecklin and the 717s power, would, to work things the other way from my original idea, a J cord where the bias comes from the 717 and the drive from the PS2 transformer be a better solution than the 717 solo for driving the Omega 2 with more muscle?


----------



## spritzer

The amp I'm going to build for myself will have enough power to drive the Jecklins and be able to swing the voltage but it isn't cheap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The Omegas do benefit from more drive voltage but it's mostly the current they need as the capacitance is so great (this why the Jecklins sound so rolled off). The transformers will indeed work but they will sound much worse due to the high ratio and you will risk arcing the drivers with such a high drive voltage. Even a flea powered amp will drive them to very loud levels but they will loose all control as the current needed simply isn't there.


----------



## Faust2D

I have Stax SR40 and like them a lot, however I wanted to get into real electrostatic stuff, so now I have a normal bias SR-Lambda coming my way. I problem is I do not have an amp or a transformer box for it. This brings us to my questions... What would be a better way for me to go, a transformer box like SR-7 or one of the old amps like Stax SRM-1 / MK2. I hope one of the electrostatic gurus can help me out here!


----------



## spritzer

If you have a good speaker setup, then the SRD line is well worth looking into for it's extra dynamics and more euphonic sound but if you don't have a good speaker amp on hand the SRM-1 Mk2 will give you more details and a slightly clearer sound at the expense of a little bit less dynamics and slam. The difference isn't huge and both are well worth it.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The amp I'm going to build for myself will have enough power to drive the Jecklins and be able to swing the voltage but it isn't cheap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omegas do benefit from more drive voltage but it's mostly the current they need as the capacitance is so great (this why the Jecklins sound so rolled off). The transformers will indeed work but they will sound much worse due to the high ratio and you will risk arcing the drivers with such a high drive voltage. Even a flea powered amp will drive them to very loud levels but they will loose all control as the current needed simply isn't there._

 

Again, thank you for your masterly summations. As for your amp design, by the time I am ready for such a device, price will hopefully be of a secondary concern. But it will literally be years.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have Stax SR40 and like them a lot, however I wanted to get into real electrostatic stuff, so now I have a normal bias SR-Lambda coming my way. I problem is I do not have an amp or a transformer box for it. This brings us to my questions... What would be a better way for me to go, a transformer box like SR-7 or one of the old amps like Stax SRM-1 / MK2. I hope one of the electrostatic gurus can help me out here!_

 

What I don't like about transformers is that they may use up your speaker outlet on the power amplifier requiring you to route the speakers through the transformer box, to the detriment of the sound of the speakers. Of course if you have more than one set of speaker terminals this is not a problem.

 However using a transformer also means adding an additional stage of processing to the phones, to the detriment of the sound of the phones. I take the point that you may get more voltage swing and hence dynamics from a transformer and the possibly euphonics, i.e. pleasant sounding distortion with a transformer, but at, I would say, the loss of detail and ambience.

 Bear in mind that Stax stopped making transformers some years ago. Obviously they and most of their customers didn't see them as a great way to run their phones.


----------



## spritzer

The price is a nasty side effect... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hate to admit it but I'm cheating on me Stax with another planar... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 since I just got my Fostex T50. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Go team orthodynamic...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have a good speaker setup, then the SRD line is well worth looking into for it's extra dynamics and more euphonic sound but if you don't have a good speaker amp on hand the SRM-1 Mk2 will give you more details and a slightly clearer sound at the expense of a little bit less dynamics and slam. The difference isn't huge and both are well worth it._

 

I do have several nice speaker amps. Will loss of details be noticeable if i use a transformer box?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bear in mind that Stax stopped making transformers some years ago. Obviously they and most of their customers didn't see them as a great way to run their phones._

 

The reason Stax stopped making the adapters was a changed audio scene. CD had won the source war and it brought with it a fixed line output voltage of 2v so no phono preamps were needed. The adapters were a good way of incorporating Stax headphones into a preexisting system but time change and so did the technology. All of the adapters give you more power then any of the Stax amps can muster and the SRD-7 Mk2 is transparent enough to be really enjoyable even with the Omegas.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do have several nice speaker amps. Will loss of details be noticeable if i use a transformer box?_

 

There is some slight loss due to the transformers and all the extra connectors, wire and switches but it's not very noticeable unless you are doing a direct comparison. You'll loose none of the Stax musicality though and I could very well live with an SRD-7 Mk2 as my main amp.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is some slight loss due to the transformers and all the extra connectors, wire and switches but it's not very noticeable unless you are doing a direct comparison. You'll loose none of the Stax musicality though and I could very well live with an SRD-7 Mk2 as my main amp._

 

Great! I will plan on getting one. Do you hear amp deferences when you use the adapter? Will using a nice tube amp help the sound?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great! I will plan on getting one. Do you here amp deferences when you use the adapter? Will using a nice tube amp help the sound?_

 

They will clearly show the difference in amps. I would recommend a nice tube amp personally.


----------



## drp

What are the differences between the SRD-7 Pro and the SRD-7 Mk2? Are they about equal in performance and transparency of the amp's signal?

 Spritzer - Our ears and our music thank you for guiding us e-stat newbees through this confusion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are the differences between the SRD-7 Pro and the SRD-7 Mk2? Are they about equal in performance and transparency of the amp's signal?

 Spritzer - Our ears and our music thank you for guiding us e-stat newbees through this confusion._

 

The SRD-7 Pro belongs to the same family as the other SRD-7 energizers (and the SRD-6 as well) but the Mk2 was upgraded with better copper (PC-OCC) both in the wiring and the windings of the transformer. It does make a bit of difference but not enough to get crazy about it and you will gain much more by bypassing the circuit board inside the unit and upgrading the wiring with some nice solid core silver or copper. 

 Happy to help clearing up the confusion


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any source for thin diaphragm material in the US? and conductive coating too.....

 thanks_

 







 Anybody know? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only good film I can find is the 1/2 mil stuff, too thick.... And then there is good metalized mylar, but at 1 mil thickness. Nothing less than 8 micron....


----------



## spritzer

Metalized mylar is a big no, no unless you are making a magneto planar. The coating is supposed to *resistive*. You are only asking for trouble by using anything metalized but it will work. 

 Try here for 6um stuff and here is some 3.5um film. They are in Australia but they have the thinnest film I know about online and their coating material is pretty good. I've bought from them and the shipping is fast with no problems at all.


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks for the link, but "minimum order 10m"....... and I am only looking to make a pair of experimental DIY headphones.....



 I thought Koss membrane is metalized, no? looks kind of reflective and shiny in the ESP950 picture.


 .


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are the differences between the SRD-7 Pro and the SRD-7 Mk2? Are they about equal in performance and transparency of the amp's signal?_

 

The MK2 are an upgrade of the SRD-7 Pro, with (from what I know) higher quality internal wiring. I doubt it makes much of a difference. Be noted that the SRD-7 Pro have one output (Pro bias), while the SRD-7/MK2 have two outputs (Pro and Normal bias).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the link, but "minimum order 10m"....... and I am only looking to make a pair of experimental DIY headphones....._

 

You will eat up a lot of mylar, even if it is just for headphone drivers. There is a lot of trial and error that goes into this because you have to learn how the materials behave and finding the right procedure and the glue to match is a pain. I always use nearly a square meter of mylar for one set of drivers to get the tension 100% correct every time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought Koss membrane is metalized, no? looks kind of reflective and shiny in the ESP950 picture._

 

The resistive coating could be metal based to they aren't using metalized mylar. Koss used some sort of metalized paint in the ESP6/7/9 but I haven't opened up the ESP10 yet. Stax stopped using metal based resistive coating in 1972 because it needs a stronger bias supply with a larger bleeder resistor without any benefits to the sound. Acrylic based coatings are much better since they are very thin and light and they last for a very long time. The choice of coating has a large impact on the sound since it adds weight and changes the vibration characteristics of the membrane. It is good to read the Roger Sanders Electrostatic Loudspeaker Cookbook if you want to dig deeper into the theory. 

 Mylar is a bit shiny while most coatings dull that a bit. I'll check and see if they posted any details about the coating.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They will clearly show the difference in amps. I would recommend a nice tube amp personally._

 

Great, I have a nice class A Tube/MOSFET hybrid hopefully it will be a good match for Stax. In your opinion what is the main difference between normal bias Lambdas and Lambda Pro sound wise; that is speed, resolution, different tonal balance or what? How is the soundstage on normal bias SR-Lambdas?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great, I have a nice class A Tube/MOSFET hybrid hopefully it will be a good match for Stax. In your opinion what is the main difference between normal bias Lambdas and Lambda Pro sound wise; that is speed, resolution, different tonal balance or what? How is the soundstage on normal bias SR-Lambdas? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's hard to cite any real differences because very few drivers are the same except for the spacer thickness. Since the normal phones all have thicker diaphragms then the bass has a bit more "thump" to it and they are a bit more forgiving but that's has very little to do with the bias voltage. The normal models are on the whole more mellow and relaxed but they are by no means worse then the Pro stuff. I would take a normal SR-Lambda over any other of Lambda any day and that includes the very hyped Lambda Pro. The Lambda Signature is also worth owning, the Nova Signature is a real letdown and the 404 is pretty good. The SR-Lambda Spirit is a real surprise because it sounds a lot like the SR-Lambda open up but with none of the HF problems. 

 The Sr-Lambda soundstage is medium to large but a bit diffused. It's not Sennheiser diffused but the damping material in the cup does smear things a bit but it's easy enough to remove. Please beware that it was put there for a reason and there will be some nasty HF anomalies exposed when the drivers are allowed to breath.


----------



## edstrelow

While I don't have a low bias lambda to compare with my 2 high bia lambdas, I do have a low bias Sigma to compare with Sigma pro's. The Sigma was of course the predecessor of the lambda amd uses essentially the same drivers but in a very different mount. 

 I agree the low bias sets have a relaxed quality and are less strident. More significantly they have more ambience but at the cost of dynamics. The pros on the other hand have more dynamics. These two features go hand in hand because the lesser dynamcs of the low bia set will bring the louder passages down in volume closer to the level of ambience in the recordings. I am used to this phenomenon from using dBx companders which can expand or compress dynamic range. You may also get some audible clipping with the low bias phones driven hard.

 While I generally prefer the pro's, I like to listen to the low bias phones from time to time to enjoy their different presentation.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The choice of coating has a large impact on the sound since it adds weight and changes the vibration characteristics of the membrane. ._

 

If graphite is no good, what else should be used? will the DIY liquid nylon be too thick for headphone use?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While I don't have a low bias lambda to compare with my 2 high bia lambdas, I do have a low bias Sigma to compare with Sigma pro's. The Sigma was of course the predecessor of the lambda amd uses essentially the same drivers but in a very different mount. 

 I agree the low bias sets have a relaxed quality and are less strident. More significantly they have more ambience but at the cost of dynamics. The pros on the other hand have more dynamics. These two features go hand in hand because the lesser dynamcs of the low bia set will bring the louder passages down in volume closer to the level of ambience in the recordings. I am used to this phenomenon from using dBx companders which can expand or compress dynamic range. You may also get some audible clipping with the low bias phones driven hard.

 While I generally prefer the pro's, I like to listen to the low bias phones from time to time to enjoy their different presentation._

 

While the Lambda and Sigma use the same driver they sound completely different. The problem with the SR-Sigma is that they much harder to drive then the Pro model and only really wake up on the Blue Hawaii. Suddenly they loose the dark nature and the bass isn't as boomy and uncontrolled. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If graphite is no good, what else should be used? will the DIY liquid nylon be too thick for headphone use?_

 

You can use dish washing liquid and some other soaps. I prefer the more complex solutions sold on the DIY sites over both graphite and the household chemicals. They are easier to work with and above all else you get a good and even coating. 

 The liquid Nylon is pretty thick and heavy and dries up after some time so I wouldn't use


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While the Lambda and Sigma use the same driver they sound completely different. The problem with the SR-Sigma is that they much harder to drive then the Pro model and only really wake up on the Blue Hawaii. Suddenly they loose the dark nature and the bass isn't as boomy and uncontrolled. 


_

 

I am interested to hear that the Blue Hawaii brings another dimension to the Sigmas, but I am pretty happy with them run off a Stax 717 and to a lesser extent, off a Stax SRM3. The only Stax amp that is really struggling with them is my Stax SRDP, the old portable amp. I find the boominess tends to go after the system is properly warmed up. Also the Sigma/ 404 that I use has more treble than a normal Sigma pro.


----------



## John Buchanan

....and I second what Ed says about the Sigma/404s with the SRM 717


----------



## spritzer

The Blue Hawaii bring tremendous control and power, much more then any Stax amp could ever dream about. You have to hear it at length to fully appreciate what it does.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Blue Hawaii bring tremendous control and power, much more then any Stax amp could ever dream about. You have to hear it at length to fully appreciate what it does._

 

Well, except the STAX T2, eh?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, except the STAX T2, eh? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

...ahhh the T2. It should be comparable to the BH but I really need to buy one just to be sure...


----------



## luvdunhill

ah, getting closer... so, I need to decide between a voltage multiplier and a transformer step-up plus a (smaller) multiplier. Yes, I have the puny 120v wall voltage. So, I think the benefit of the transformer would be the double-digit percentage of regulation in the transformer. However, that could come at a cost. So, a few questions, how much current does the bias need, and what is the effect of ripple on the bias? Seems like "really little", and "not much at all" might be the answers from some of the designs I've seen


----------



## spritzer

The current is a few mA's and I simply don't know what effect the ripple has. Comparison of various bias supply's is on my to-do list but it is very, very long... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I don't doubt that a transformer before the multiplier will make a difference even if it is only doing 1:1 duty. More iron is always better.


----------



## Faust2D

I am here again with more questions for Stax aficionados 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What in your expert opinion will work better with SR-Lambdas, SRD-7 or SRD-X? I do have a nice headphone amp as well as a nice speaker amp (actually a few of them). Also what do you think a good price for these in the current market? 

 With your help I should have a nice beginner Stax system soon.


----------



## spritzer

I would pick the SRD-7 with a good amp any day. They are also cheap as dirt unless they might have PRO written on them somewhere.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would pick the SRD-7 with a good amp any day. They are also cheap as dirt unless they might have PRO written on them somewhere._

 

Can you give me an idea of what dirt cheap is?


----------



## spritzer

I get the Japanese models regularly free so I've instructed Rinkya (the deputy service) to throw them in the garbage. They are way to heavy to ship around the world never to be used. 

 I've seen them go for 30€ or less and the SRD-6 is even cheaper. It has the same transformers so it's well worth a look.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get the Japanese models regularly free so I've instructed Rinkya (the deputy service) to throw them in the garbage. They are way to heavy to ship around the world never to be used. _

 









 Will Japanese models work in US? I can't seem to find one cheap anywhere


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The current is a few mA's and I simply don't know what effect the ripple has. Comparison of various bias supply's is on my to-do list but it is very, very long... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't doubt that a transformer before the multiplier will make a difference even if it is only doing 1:1 duty. More iron is always better._

 

looks like microamps is a better estimates, based on some of the diy ESL designs I've seen. I have lots of options now, so I guess I'll be the guinea pig and see what I can find out.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_








 Will Japanese models work in US? I can't seem to find one cheap anywhere 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They will work as the older models were designed for a 200v bias so the bias is just a straight forward voltage doubler fed by the Japanese 100v line voltage. If you feed it 117v you will get 230v DC which was the bias for the later normal phones from the SR-Sigma and onwards. The older phones will work as well. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_looks like microamps is a better estimates, based on some of the diy ESL designs I've seen. I have lots of options now, so I guess I'll be the guinea pig and see what I can find out._

 

Micro amps would be accurate but the draw depends on the music signal. Large excursions will require more current to retain the fixed voltage but it's a very small amount.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ They are also cheap as dirt unless they might have PRO written on them somewhere._

 

The PROs are getting really expensive lately in Europe.I've tried to get a spare transformer for months now, and the going price seems to be >$200 lately.
 Still far less expensive than a decent amp, but .......


----------



## spacemanspliff

I just got a SRD-7/SB and some normal bias Lambdas. I hooked them up to a 30W per Parasound amp and Preamp v.1.

 YEEEEEHAAAAA!!

 Nice, nice cans. These have a musicality that I have never heard in a headphone besides maybe deep open darths or K1000s. Bass is better than the K1000 though. Remarkable highs, voices. Very smooth.

 Sign me up on Team Stax or the Stax Mafia. GREAT sound. Different for certain. Very easy and non-fatiguing full frequency response with the deepest soundstage I have ever heard.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a SRD-7/SB and some normal bias Lambdas. I hooked them up to a 30W per Parasound amp and Preamp v.1.

 YEEEEEHAAAAA!!

 Nice, nice cans. These have a musicality that I have never heard in a headphone besides maybe deep open darths or K1000s. Bass is better than the K1000 though. Remarkable highs, voices. Very smooth.

 Sign me up on Team Stax or the Stax Mafia. GREAT sound. Different for certain. Very easy and non-fatiguing full frequency response with the deepest soundstage I have ever heard._

 

Some of these old Stax still sound great by contemporary standards. Of course you could try the more recent phones and amps but better get a cash transfusion from the bank first.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Forget it. I spent around $600 for this setup with the amp and preamp. That was enough lol. Still, the sound is worth every penny.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Actually, I feel guilty. The gentleman who sold them to me never got around to listening to these. Good thing lol. No way he would have sold them if he had. I have searched for years for this. A headphone with deep sound stage and excellent vocals. The supreme bonus is that they absolutely astound me for FPS gaming. I have never heard such delicate, pinpoint accurate 3D imaging in a headphone.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The PROs are getting really expensive lately in Europe.I've tried to get a spare transformer for months now, and the going price seems to be >$200 lately.
 Still far less expensive than a decent amp, but ......._

 

The price has rocketed lately but you could source one locally since there was a huge number imported into Germany. I've found a few in Japan but I'm keeping those... ;p

 I think it's about time we come up with a bias supply design that is cheap and can offer both normal and Pro outputs to retrofit into the older SRD models. I think a zener referenced input for international usage is requred and go from there. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, I feel guilty. The gentleman who sold them to me never got around to listening to these. Good thing lol. No way he would have sold them if he had. I have searched for years for this. A headphone with deep sound stage and excellent vocals. The supreme bonus is that they absolutely astound me for FPS gaming. I have never heard such delicate, pinpoint accurate 3D imaging in a headphone._

 

Those headphones are really hard to beat and are one of my all time favorites. The later models aren't really upgraded versions since Stax always tried something new and the original SR-Lambdas remained in production long after the newer models were released.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price has rocketed lately but you could source one locally since there was a huge number imported into Germany. I've found a few in Japan but I'm keeping those... ;p_

 

True enough! There was a Mk II in Germany last week that I was determined to get, but it finally went for nearly twice the amount I thought reasonable (€163 ~ £120 ~ $240!). (Obviously, I'm not determined enough!)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it's about time we come up with a bias supply design that is cheap and can offer both normal and Pro outputs to retrofit into the older SRD models. I think a zener referenced input for international usage is requred and go from there._

 

Oh, yes please! This idea keeps getting brought up, but never gets anywhere. I have rudimentary soldering skills, and virtually zero knowledge of electronics, but if I'm given the right info., I'd love to give this a go...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, yes please! This idea keeps getting brought up, but never gets anywhere. I have rudimentary soldering skills, and virtually zero knowledge of electronics, but if I'm given the right info., I'd love to give this a go..._

 

When I find some extra time I'll did into the Stax Mk2 bias supply and see if we can't make it a bit easier to understand. A nice parts list would be a good start.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True enough! There was a Mk II in Germany last week that I was determined to get, but it finally went for nearly twice the amount I thought reasonable (€163 ~ £120 ~ $240!). (Obviously, I'm not determined enough!)_

 

Wow!
 If the prices keep on rising like this I will certainly keep my SRD-7 Pro and SRD-7/mk2 a bit longer...


----------



## spritzer

It's clear that the transformers are making a comeback and we really need a high end unit. With the really nice DC-DC converters available we could make one with a charging circuit and battery bias. Another option would be to modify the original SRD-7's as we have been talking about, simplifying them in the process as the PCB's are replaced. 

 So Kai, are you up to calling Lundahl and asking about 1:25 step up transformers that can handle at least 1kV on the secondary while only conduction a few mA's? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh and the secondaries need to be center tapped so we have ground for the bias.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So Kai, are you up to calling Lundahl and asking about 1:25 step up transformers that can handle at least 1kV on the secondary while only conduction a few mA's? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh and the secondaries need to be center tapped so we have ground for the bias._


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...Another option would be to modify the original SRD-7's as we have been talking about, simplifying them in the process as the PCB's are replaced..._

 

I haven't been following this conversation enough but I for one would be interested in modifications to both SRD-7Pro and SRD-7SB to further enhance SQ.


----------



## Duggeh

The idea of a really good transformer design (better than the Illusion if poss, nevermind the SRD-7 series) appeals to me greatly. It would allow me the option in the future to run all of my headphones from a single high class power amplifier.


----------



## drp

I've been just waiting for the thread to turn this direction. Stay on course now. Steady. Steeddddyyy!


----------



## spacemanspliff

man alive. these are stupendously good with Led Zepplin. why the hell did I not get these in the first place?

 IS the SRD-7 not very good? Sounds pretty damn fine to me. I will build around these headphones from now on so let me know what my next step should be on the ole upgrade path.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's clear that the transformers are making a comeback and we really need a high end unit. With the really nice DC-DC converters available we could make one with a charging circuit and battery bias._

 

Yes, I sure would take a really high end transformer unit.
 Cause with the lack of a "perfect" direct drive amplifier on the market I am more and more looking into the _Speaker Amp (300B maybe) -> Transformer -> Headphone_ route.

  Quote:


 So Kai, are you up to calling Lundahl and asking about 1:25 step up transformers that can handle at least 1kV on the secondary while only conduction a few mA's? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh and the secondaries need to be center tapped so we have ground for the bias. 
 

This is way above my knowledge level.
 But I sure can look into it, and contact Lundahl, if you let me in on the secrets about transformers.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_man alive. these are stupendously good with Led Zepplin. why the hell did I not get these in the first place?

 IS the SRD-7 not very good? Sounds pretty damn fine to me. I will build around these headphones from now on so let me know what my next step should be on the ole upgrade path._

 

Great to hear that you have a really great experience with electrostatic headphones.
 The SRD-7 is pretty good, but with most other product there have been some sacrifices to keep the price down. Meaning that its possible to build a much higher quality unit. Using:
 * Higher quality transformers.
 * Higher quality cabling and connectors.
 * Battery powered bias supply (shield from mains power).


----------



## Johnny Blue

...and, and, and... obviously it should not have the loudspeaker/earspeaker switch (if you can't have a dedicated amp for this project, you shouldn't be playing!).

 ..., ooh, the excitement! Might we really generate enough enthusiasm this time so that we actually get somewhere?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and, and, and... obviously it should not have the loudspeaker/earspeaker switch (if you can't have a dedicated amp for this project, you shouldn't be playing!)._

 

Ditto!
 Short signal path, through few components, is the way to go...

  Quote:


 ..., ooh, the excitement! Might we really generate enough enthusiasm this time so that we actually get somewhere? 
 

Hopefully!
 We only need to find the "perfect" transformer. The battery powered bias supply should probably be an easier step.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_man alive. these are stupendously good with Led Zepplin. why the hell did I not get these in the first place?

 IS the SRD-7 not very good? Sounds pretty damn fine to me. I will build around these headphones from now on so let me know what my next step should be on the ole upgrade path._

 

Ah, the Dark Side beckons... deep within, you know the answer.... just off the tip of your tongue... c'mon.... ah, TUBES! OR, a KGSS...

 Calling Dr. Gilmore... perhaps he speaks 'Lundahl'.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Tubes would be perfect. I am so happy with my current setup though. I fear I might pee my pants if it actually improved lol.


----------



## spritzer

We have often talked about the transformer design posted above but it has it's own problems. The transformers are output trafos for valve amps so they are huge and the ratio it far too low. Since the ratio is so low, the amp needs to have more power so I'd much rather have Lundahl produce something for us that is not as big and has a higher ratio. 

 Going direct to the transformers is the only way to do this properly and from the transformers directly to the Stax plugs. I'm going to use soft silver wires and not use any speaker connectors, either binding posts or spades/banana plugs, but for some it would be a necessity. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't been following this conversation enough but I for one would be interested in modifications to both SRD-7Pro and SRD-7SB to further enhance SQ. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The SB line will be a problem though as they are more complex and the input needs to be connected to the PCB or you will have no bias. Better wiring will help and removing the switch and as many connectors as possible will also help a great deal. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I sure would take a really high end transformer unit.
 Cause with the lack of a "perfect" direct drive amplifier on the market I am more and more looking into the Speaker Amp (300B maybe) -> Transformer -> Headphone route._

 

There will never be a perfect DD amp but I'll give it a try. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you buy a speaker amp then you could mount the transformers and the bias supply inside the amp for a very clean signal path. I'm seriously contemplating a Sun Audio amp and doing extensive mods on it. An amp like that could drive Stax phones, the Take T and the K1000, efficient speakers and hard to drive dynamic headphones. Truly a jack of all trades. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is way above my knowledge level.
 But I sure can look into it, and contact Lundahl, if you let me in on the secrets about transformers._

 

I think we need to start with the SRD-7 mods and bias supply design before we start to hassle Lundahl. I'll let you in on the secrets in due time...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There will never be a perfect DD amp but I'll give it a try. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

True. Hence why I put the word _perfect_ inside ""...
 To me the "perfect" amplifier would have to be powerful (DHT tubes maybe?), look beautiful, and have both Normal and Pro bias Stax connectors.

 I am sure your amplifier will be great. But it will take some time (couple of years?) until the design is ready.
 But I can't wait that long. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I think we need to start with the SRD-7 mods and bias supply design before we start to hassle Lundahl. I'll let you in on the secrets in due time... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Sure. We can always start with improving the SRD-7.
 Then move on to a custom built transformer box, with better transformers at a later stage. I'm all in, even if I have limited electrical knowledge.


----------



## ericj

Alright, WPI makes a Stax-style connector in their part number 86-71-6S. 

 But does anybody know the part number of the cable hood that goes around it? The Allied Electronics catalog makes it appear that there are various options available, but it turns out that the hoods on the other side of the page from the WPI mic connectors are for mains power plugs.


----------



## spritzer

Ok, I've dismantled the SRD-7 Mk2 and here are the pictures of the PCB. I haven't traced it yet but I did desolder the zener and it is marked Z1100 so it's either a 100v 1w model or a 81v bipolar unit. The 81v fit perfectly with the bias voltages but I need to check it further. The fuse is a normal 250v 0.3A unit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True. Hence why I put the word perfect inside ""...
 To me the "perfect" amplifier would have to be powerful (DHT tubes maybe?), look beautiful, and have both Normal and Pro bias Stax connectors.

 I am sure your amplifier will be great. But it will take some time (couple of years?) until the design is ready.
 But I can't wait that long. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The amp will have 3 bias supply's, 230v, 500v (with a 10M resistor) and 580v, so I can drive all my stats. I'll also put in the 1200v bias supply for the Jecklins because I'll buy them one of these days but I'll probably find some substitute connector since the Hirshman's are rare. 

 It will probably take years before I'm happy but I'm planning to build a simple single ended version with a transformer phase splitter, and a dual mono PSU. It should tide me over for a while...


----------



## Johnny Blue

So, my SRD-7 (mains bias, running off a 230V UK supply) sits with its cover off, my soldering iron is getting nice and hot, and I'm ready to rumble...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, WPI makes a Stax-style connector in their part number 86-71-6S. 

 But does anybody know the part number of the cable hood that goes around it? The Allied Electronics catalog makes it appear that there are various options available, but it turns out that the hoods on the other side of the page from the WPI mic connectors are for mains power plugs._

 

This one is the right diameter. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, my SRD-7 (mains bias, running off a 230V UK supply) sits with its cover off, my soldering iron is getting nice and hot, and I'm ready to rumble..._

 

You could start off with bypassing the the switch...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, WPI makes a Stax-style connector in their part number 86-71-6S. 

 But does anybody know the part number of the cable hood that goes around it? The Allied Electronics catalog makes it appear that there are various options available, but it turns out that the hoods on the other side of the page from the WPI mic connectors are for mains power plugs._

 

Eric:

 If you find out soon, I'd love to know as I placed an order with Allied but an out-of-stock order is holding it up. I was planning on using heatshrink tubing, but if you find the right part, or Spritzer's suggestion works well, I'd like to know asap so I can see about adding it to my order!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This one is the right diameter. _

 

Excellent. I'd suspected that it might be, but all the pdfs I've seen were too vague. The other hoods pictured next to it in that section of the PDF are MUCH larger than the stax-alike plugs. the metal ones especially. 

*lvdunhill*, I'm probably placing an order over the weekend, as allied is cheaper by greater than the shipping margin for a power trafo i need for another project.


----------



## spritzer

You could also fashion something out of some scrap plastic or something similar and cover it with heatshrink.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The idea of a really good transformer design (better than the Illusion if poss, nevermind the SRD-7 series) appeals to me greatly. It would allow me the option in the future to run all of my headphones from a single high class power amplifier._

 

I was working on a step-up transformer for my high and low bias Stax headphones earlier this year. I talked to Russ Knotts of Just Real Music (electrostatic loudspeaker kit maker at www.justrealmusic.com) about a custom transformer for my Stax headphones. He hand winds his own transformers. He made me a pair of custom transformers with a 25 or 50:1 turns ratio depending on the primary wiring. This transformer has the ability to output much higher voltages into much higher capacitance that Stax headphones. He stated that this trans should be great for driving the Stax phones. It has good bandwidth and low distortion. I started another project and this was put on a back burner. Maybe I need to move it to the front.

 I have drawn a schematic for the SRD-7 mkII. I also have a data sheet for the Z1100 bi-directional Zener diode that is used in the Stax circuit. PM me with your email address if you would like copies.

 AudioD


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could also fashion something out of some scrap plastic or something similar and cover it with heatshrink._

 

Yeah, I had thoughts about 3/4" thin-wall copper end caps, for example. Drill, paint, install rubber grommet. 

 But that's hackish.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_bi-directional Zener diode_

 

wow, sounds like a contradiction in terms to me


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, my SRD-7 (mains bias, running off a 230V UK supply) sits with its cover off, my soldering iron is getting nice and hot, and I'm ready to rumble..._

 

You could start by cutting out the switch and PCB from the signal path. Connecting the input directly to the transformers, then from the transformers directly to the Stax connector.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was working on a step-up transformer for my high and low bias Stax headphones earlier this year. I talked to Russ Knotts of Just Real Music (electrostatic loudspeaker kit maker at www.justrealmusic.com) about a custom transformer for my Stax headphones. He hand winds his own transformers. He made me a pair of custom transformers with a 25 or 50:1 turns ratio depending on the primary wiring. This transformer has the ability to output much higher voltages into much higher capacitance that Stax headphones. He stated that this trans should be great for driving the Stax phones. It has good bandwidth and low distortion. I started another project and this was put on a back burner. Maybe I need to move it to the front._

 

I don't know much (close to nothing...) about transformers. But wonder if this might be another provider of the custom transformers we need for the "ultimate" transformer box?

 I get more ready whenever this subject come up!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow, sounds like a contradiction in terms to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's like putting 2 Zeners back to back.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was working on a step-up transformer for my high and low bias Stax headphones earlier this year. I talked to Russ Knotts of Just Real Music (electrostatic loudspeaker kit maker at www.justrealmusic.com) about a custom transformer for my Stax headphones. He hand winds his own transformers. He made me a pair of custom transformers with a 25 or 50:1 turns ratio depending on the primary wiring. This transformer has the ability to output much higher voltages into much higher capacitance that Stax headphones. He stated that this trans should be great for driving the Stax phones. It has good bandwidth and low distortion. I started another project and this was put on a back burner. Maybe I need to move it to the front._

 

They are pretty cheap as well and could serve as a cheaper option then the really high end stuff. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have drawn a schematic for the SRD-7 mkII. I also have a data sheet for the Z1100 bi-directional Zener diode that is used in the Stax circuit. PM me with your email address if you would like copies.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for doing the legwork. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You have a PM on the way. I would have done it but i had to get up at 3:30 for work so no time. I'll put together a parts list and take a few pictures of the Mk2 while it sits open here on my desk. The only thing that isn't on the PCB are some diodes soldered across the + and - outputs on the Pro jack. There are two for each connection but I can't read the markings on them. There are 3 bands on them and I believe a 90 is written as well. They must be there to limit the maximum output voltage as none of the Pro phones have built in Silistors. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow, sounds like a contradiction in terms to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You need two zeners facing each other across the AC to lower the voltage. They lower the voltage to less then 100v to be universally compatible. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know much (close to nothing...) about transformers. But wonder if this might be another provider of the custom transformers we need for the "ultimate" transformer box?_

 

There are plenty of custom transformer manufactures and some will even make them out of silver for you, not cheap though.


----------



## krmathis

Somethings totally wrong...
 Cause thi Stax thread had gone all the way down to page 4. I repeat *Page 4!*






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The amp will have 3 bias supply's, 230v, 500v (with a 10M resistor) and 580v, so I can drive all my stats. I'll also put in the 1200v bias supply for the Jecklins because I'll buy them one of these days but I'll probably find some substitute connector since the Hirshman's are rare._

 

Really sounds like you have some great plans for your amplifier.
 I personally would only need 230 and 580volt bias supply's, for my Normal and Pro bias Stax'. But its always a bonus to have suitable bias supply's to drive any electrostatic headphones out there.

  Quote:


 It will probably take years before I'm happy but I'm planning to build a simple single ended version with a transformer phase splitter, and a dual mono PSU. It should tide me over for a while... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I guessed right.
 That you plan spending years on this, before you have the end result ready. Better do it properly, than hurry up and take short-cuts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are plenty of custom transformer manufactures and some will even make them out of silver for you, not cheap though._

 

Auch! I bet a fully silver transformer will hurt my wallet badly.
 Copper should do it for me...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somethings totally wrong...
 Cause thi Stax thread had gone all the way down to page 4. I repeat *Page 4!*



_

 

I was going to post a rant about this but you beat me to it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We have the schematic for the Mk2 bias supply so anybody can get a very good adapter cheap. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guessed right.
 That you plan spending years on this, before you have the end result ready. Better do it properly, than hurry up and take short-cuts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's better to build a simpler prototype first to see if I am indeed going in the right direction. I could always loan it out when I'm done with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Auch! I bet a fully silver transformer will hurt my wallet badly.
 Copper should do it for me..._

 

Silver trafos will cost a fortune, easily 4 times the copper or more. 

 I've been comparing the transformers from a 1972 SRD-7 and my 80's Mk2 and they are very similar. The leads are different but they are simply soldered to the windings so the transformers could be the same. That brings us to the ultimate mod for the SRD-7, rewiring directly to the windings. It's pretty easy to do as you only have to make and incision on each side and peal away the wax paper and plastic insulation and there are the solder joints. When you're done soldering just put the insulation back and secure it with some tape.


----------



## cosmopragma

SRD 7 PRO, Buy-it-now for only ~ $445.


----------



## Duggeh

Bonkers.


----------



## Afrikane

x2, Lunacy of the first order!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to post a rant about this but you beat me to it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm too fast for you guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 [size=xx-small]Or maybe not...[/size]

  Quote:


 We have the schematic for the Mk2 bias supply so anybody can get a very good adapter cheap. 
 

Great news for those with an SRD-7 and a Pro bias Stax pair.
 Just heat up the solder iron and off you go...

  Quote:


 It's better to build a simpler prototype first to see if I am indeed going in the right direction. I could always loan it out when I'm done with it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 


  Quote:


 Silver trafos will cost a fortune, easily 4 times the copper or more. 

 I've been comparing the transformers from a 1972 SRD-7 and my 80's Mk2 and they are very similar. The leads are different but they are simply soldered to the windings so the transformers could be the same. That brings us to the ultimate mod for the SRD-7, rewiring directly to the windings. It's pretty easy to do as you only have to make and incision on each side and peal away the wax paper and plastic insulation and there are the solder joints. When you're done soldering just put the insulation back and secure it with some tape. 
 

With such a price tag silver trafos are out of the question for me. But it can stay as a dream though.

 I have been thinking about modding my SRD-7mk2. Removing all unnecessary cables, switches, etc. I will definitely look into soldering wires straight on the transformer windings. Silver wiring that is...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRD 7 PRO, Buy-it-now for only ~ $445.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thats just insane!
 You guys can have mine for $400...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRD 7 PRO, Buy-it-now for only ~ $445.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll rebuild a SRD-7 completely with silver wire and a pro bias supply for that amount of money. The sad part is that somebody will buy it... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm too fast for you guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 [size=xx-small]Or maybe not...[/size]_

 

Damn work interfering with my ranting... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been thinking about modding my SRD-7mk2. Removing all unnecessary cables, switches, etc. I will definitely look into soldering wires straight on the transformer windings. Silver wiring that is... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It will lift it to a much higher level but when soldering transformers you have to be careful about how much heat you are using. There might be an internal solder joint that might break free if you heat it too much.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will lift it to a much higher level but when soldering transformers you have to be careful about how much heat you are using. There might be an internal solder joint that might break free if you heat it too much._

 

I sure will be careful, if I move on with this task..


----------



## spritzer

Last night I managed to fix my SRM-Xh and now I have electrostatic capability for computer use. I opened up the Corda Aria and leached the dac output so I can use them both at the same time in both in the USB and external source mode. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a pretty crappy amp but it's fine for the price I payed for it and drives the Lambdas really well for it's small size. I'll have to open it up again though as I saw a low bias terminal on the PCB and if that is active then I'll add another connector to it. That would be a great amp for gaming...


----------



## bralk

Can anybody inform me of the correct specs of this amp.

 On Stax own website you can read "Vacuum tubes 6FQ7/6CG7 type x 4".
 That is obviously nonsense. Other websites state the voltage swing to be anyhing from 340 V up to 450 V.

 I would like to know the correct figure for the voltage swing.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anybody inform me of the correct specs of this amp.

 On Stax own website you can read "Vacuum tubes 6FQ7/6CG7 type x 4".
 That is obviously nonsense. Other websites state the voltage swing to be anyhing from 340 V up to 450 V.

 I would like to know the correct figure for the voltage swing.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

It is 450v rms@1kHz


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*reliable info on the srm 727II*
 Can anybody inform me of the correct specs of this amp.

 On Stax own website you can read "Vacuum tubes 6FQ7/6CG7 type x 4".
 That is obviously nonsense. Other websites state the voltage swing to be anyhing from 340 V up to 450 V.

 I would like to know the correct figure for the voltage swing._

 

Stax' website sure are misleading.
 The SRM-727II description list "Vacuum tubes: 6FQ7/6CG7 type x 4", while it certainly is a solid state amplifier and don't have any tubes.

 Their maximum output voltage is listed correctly though, at 450v r.m.s. / 1 KHz.
 While the SRM-007tII have 340v r.m.s. / 1 KHz


----------



## mirumu

All this talk of transformer box modding makes me think I need to stop procrastinating...


----------



## spritzer

I like!!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this talk of transformer box modding makes me think I need to stop procrastinating...

http://www.mirumu.com/nmc/src/1190116666838.jpg_

 

Perfect! Two transformers at that size (correct value of course), and a 230/580volt bias supply in a solid case.
 Would have been something..


----------



## Elephas

_*sticks head in*_

 I got an Illusion ESC-1001 but I don't have a suitable integrated amp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would an Audio Research VSi55 do OK?


----------



## spritzer

Basically anything that will drive speakers will do and the ARC should be very nice indeed.


----------



## drp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got an Illusion ESC-1001 but I don't have a suitable integrated amp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





...._

 

Okay, you can no longer be considereed an electrostatic newbee; you are now an electrostatic slut. Just kidding . . .in all seriousness . . you are . . still an electrostatic slut.....

 But really, in all seriousness, major congrats on the ESC-1001. It was stated earlier in this thread that it beat out the mod'd SRD-7 Pro for sound quality. I trust that you are in for a real treat.

 While waiting for a direct drive e-stat amp to show up, I'm using a highly mod'd T-amp (Trends) with the SRD-7 Pro and remain very impressed with how this little combination drives the HE60s. When my final solution is in place, I might combine the transformers and amp card in one small box, along with a 7 amp battery and use it at the office or camp.

 Hey, wait a minute . . . didn't a certain party recently acquire a pair of HE60s? [size=xx-small]e-slut...... [/size]8!)

 ETA - speaking of e-stat gear, right after posting this, I got a call from the mail room that I had a package. I just received a pair of SR-003 earspeakers. As I mod and experiment, the last thing I want to do is plug in my precccciousssss (HE60), so these little buds get the duty. I suspect that (if I do not fry them) they'l do double duty as my transportable e-stats and for at the office. Spritzer - thanks for the tip on these!


----------



## no1likesme

I am listening to my grado sr80's through my zune right now as I am away from my lambdas, waiting for my next class and I can't help feeling disappointed. I think I need sr001 but alas I am poor.

 EDIT: YAY 1200'th post!!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perfect! Two transformers at that size (correct value of course), and a 230/580volt bias supply in a solid case.
 Would have been something.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I do have two of those transformers. They are also the correct values. They can handle 1:25, 1:50 and 1:100 ratios depending on how they're configured. I'll be setting them up for 1:25. Basically I need to build a bias supply and a case.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*sticks head in*

 I got an Illusion ESC-1001 but I don't have a suitable integrated amp! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would an Audio Research VSi55 do OK?_

 

From what I have read the ESC-1001 is a damn nice transformer box, and should probably match up nicely with your VSi55.
 As it will with "any" amplifier putting out 8-10 watts or more... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, wait a minute . . . didn't a certain party recently acquire a pair of HE60s? [size=xx-small]e-slut...... [/size]8!)_

 

Yes, a certain one got a pair of HE60. Just when I thought I might get lucky and get them... he he

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do have two of those transformers. They are also the correct values. They can handle 1:25, 1:50 and 1:100 ratios depending on how they're configured. I'll be setting them up for 1:25. Basically I need to build a bias supply and a case._

 

Woah! Now I am really envious. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause from just looking at the size I take that they will perform better than the smaller SRD-7 Pro ones...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, a certain one got a pair of HE60. Just when I thought I might get lucky and get them... he he_

 

I'd like a pair of those myself too but I'm in no rush. Maybe when the O2 mk2 becomes FOTM the HE60s will become cheaper. Of course maybe I'm just being over optimistic there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woah! Now I am really envious. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause from just looking at the size I take that they will perform better than the smaller SRD-7 Pro ones..._

 

They're spec'd for a flat frequency response from 5Hz to 40Khz (This is at 1:100 ratio, they will perform better at lower ratios). Whether there's any resonances remains to be seen but at that size it is less likely and they were designed to minimize this. They are very big transformers, each weighs around 6Kgs (about 13lbs).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like a pair of those myself too but I'm in no rush. Maybe when the O2 mk2 becomes FOTM the HE60s will become cheaper. Of course maybe I'm just being over optimistic there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would be surprised if the HE60 going price will be affected by a SR-007mk2 release.
 A new HE phone from Sennheiser would be a different case though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 They're spec'd for a flat frequency response from 5Hz to 40Khz. Whether there's any resonances remains to be seen but at that size it is less likely and they were designed to minimize this. They are very big transformers, each weighs around 6Kgs (about 13lbs). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

They sure are massive, with a weight of 6kg each.
 Can you let us in on where you bought them, and how much they let you down?


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sure are massive, with a weight of 6kg each.
 Can you let us in on where you bought them, and how much they let you down?_

 

I got them from Sowter in the UK. I had tried contacting some other places as well previously but the others did not seem interested and some didn't even reply to my contact. Sowter had experience designing high ratio transformers for electrostatic speaker systems so it seemed to me they would be quite knowledgeable and be able to help. When I made my original design request, Brian Sowter personally contacted and seemed quite interested in what I was planning. I was very descriptive so he would notice if I was missing anything obvious or doing anything really stupid but he was very supportive and made additional suggestions and recommendations on how the design could be best achieved. I had provided him my desired specs and was ready to compromise should the need arise but instead he found ways to meet all my requirements and I pretty much let him have free reign on the design aspects. We talked ballpark cost but I made it clear that wasn't a criteria I was especially concerned about. Once we were both happy with the details, he finalized the design and had them made. I don't recall the precise cost but at today's exchange rates they would be in the ballpark of about US$350 each.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, a certain one got a pair of HE60. Just when I thought I might get lucky and get them... he he_

 

Well there war another one posted this morning....

 My set will probably be posted tomorrow. It's only too cool to own a Baby Orpheus set with warranty... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woah! Now I am really envious. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause from just looking at the size I take that they will perform better than the smaller SRD-7 Pro ones..._

 

Much better current capability and design. There are plenty of good transformer designers out there but things can get very expensive, very fast. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do have two of those transformers. They are also the correct values. They can handle 1:25, 1:50 and 1:100 ratios depending on how they're configured. I'll be setting them up for 1:25. Basically I need to build a bias supply and a case._

 

If they have center tapped secondaries you can use the SRD-7 Mk2 circuit. Very nice transformers indeed...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got them from Sowter in the UK. I had tried contacting some other places as well previously but the others did not seem interested and some didn't even reply to my contact. Sowter had experience designing high ratio transformers for electrostatic speaker systems so it seemed to me they would be quite knowledgeable and be able to help. When I made my original design request, Brian Sowter personally contacted and seemed quite interested in what I was planning. I was very descriptive so he would notice if I was missing anything obvious or doing anything really stupid but he was very supportive and made additional suggestions and recommendations on how the design could be best achieved. I had provided him my desired specs and was ready to compromise should the need arise but instead he found ways to meet all my requirements and I pretty much let him have free reign on the design aspects. We talked ballpark cost but I made it clear that wasn't a criteria I was especially concerned about. Once we were both happy with the details, he finalized the design and had them made. I don't recall the precise cost but at today's exchange rates they would be in the ballpark of about US$350 each._

 

Thanks for all the information! Might become handy...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well there war another one posted this morning....

 My set will probably be posted tomorrow. It's only too cool to own a Baby Orpheus set with warranty... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Really? then I will have to visit the *Bay site...
 Congratulations with yours. You really found a pair in a hurry, cause just a few days ago you mentioned that you might look into getting a pair...

  Quote:


 Much better current capability and design. There are plenty of good transformer designers out there but things can get very expensive, very fast. 
 

I believe you.
 As with most other items they get expensive very fast when you pick to the top of the line.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? then I will have to visit the *Bay site...
 Congratulations with yours. You really found a pair in a hurry, cause just a few days ago you mentioned that you might look into getting a pair..._

 

It comes with a defective HEV70 but who cares about that anyway... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Things have been pretty calm in the used Stax world lately and we can't have money just sitting around...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It comes with a defective HEV70 but who cares about that anyway... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I certainly don't.
 As I intend to use get them terminated with a Stax connector anyway.

 I hate those 14-day listings. So damn long to wait! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I will give it a go...

  Quote:


 Things have been pretty calm in the used Stax world lately and we can't have money just sitting around... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Same here.
 Have not bought a used Stax the last 6 months or so (new 4070 though). Simply because I have not found an SR-Lambda with the right price tag.
 Guess its time checking out phones from other vendors. Aka Sennheiser HE60..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I certainly don't.
 As I intend to use get them terminated with a Stax connector anyway.

 I hate those 14-day listings. So damn long to wait! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I will give it a go..._

 

Who needs a 14 day auction... ???

 I have already modified the Stax plugs for my He60... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same here.
 Have not bought a used Stax the last 6 months or so (new 4070 though). Simply because I have not found an SR-Lambda with the right price tag.
 Guess its time checking out phones from other vendors. Aka Sennheiser HE60.._

 

I did buy a couple of SR-3's and a SRA-3S but other then that, all has been quiet on the western front...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did buy a couple of SR-3's and a SRA-3S but other then that, all has been quiet on the western front..._

 

Guess I have to start looking to the east as well.
 Yahoo! Auctions Japan it is, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 Damn, there are an Illusion ESC-1001 in there as well. Hmm...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess I have to start looking to the east as well.
 Yahoo! Auctions Japan it is, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 Damn, there are an Illusion ESC-1001 in there as well. Hmm..._

 

Be prepared for a fight if we come up against each other. I'm actually beating out the Japanese Stax collectors and they are completely insane... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'd pay the 12000 more and get a new Illusion...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be prepared for a fight if we come up against each other. I'm actually beating out the Japanese Stax collectors and they are completely insane... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Ai ai, Captain! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am prepared for a fight if needed! But hopefully we wont end there.

 My first target is an SR-Lambda, with an SR-Omega in my dreams.

  Quote:


 I'd pay the 12000 more and get a new Illusion... 
 

I did not quite remember the new price. But you are right, its 68.000 Yen new.
 I will pass...


----------



## ericj

Well, I think i'm now a fully qualified member of Team Vintage Stax, since i successfully sniped an SR-X mk3 w/ SRD-7. 

 Perhaps foolishly. The seller described them thusly: 

  Quote:


 I tested these and got no right channel and a very tinny left channel. Selling as is.

 ...

 In testing these again I had better results. I think it has to do with very sensitive wires. The sound was better and was getting audio in both (after playing with the back cords and hooking directly into the amp as opposed to bridging with speaker wire). I am listing them as "touchy" I think stax collectors may already be familiar with this. 
 

What have i gotten myself into?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I think i'm now a fully qualified member of Team Vintage Stax, since i successfully sniped an SR-X mk3 w/ SRD-7. 

 Perhaps foolishly. The seller described them thusly: 



 What have i gotten myself into?_

 

I saw those, but passed bidding since I saw the sellers comment.
 If (lets hope so) they work perfectly, you certainly got a great deal for $86. Just clean them up, put on new pads, and enjoy.
 If they are indeed broke, then at least you have an SRD-7 and spare parts for the next SR-X/MK3.

 Fingers crossed, for you!


----------



## ericj

Yeah, i hope his issues were nothing worse than not having any idea how to hook them up and maybe some dirty connectors. I can deal with rewiring things too. 

 I guess we'll see.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ai ai, Captain! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am prepared for a fight if needed! But hopefully we wont end there.

 My first target is an SR-Lambda, with an SR-Omega in my dreams._

 

I won't fight you for a Sr-Lambda but if any of the phones I'm missing come along... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On more friendly terms, bidding on Y!JP is pretty different from ebay so some adjustment is need and be aware of the fees and shipping limitations. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I think i'm now a fully qualified member of Team Vintage Stax, since i successfully sniped an SR-X mk3 w/ SRD-7. 

 Perhaps foolishly. The seller described them thusly: 



 What have i gotten myself into?_

 

It could be that they are slow to charge up but any channel misalignment is pretty hard to fix. Lets continue this when you have them.


----------



## Tachikoma

Does anyone know exactly what the stepup ratio is in the stax transformer boxes?


----------



## spritzer

1:25 or there about. An amp at full output can give from 10-30v so it is capable of producing a pretty good voltage swing with plenty of current.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have not bought a used Stax the last 6 months or so (new 4070 though). Simply because I have not found an SR-Lambda with the right price tag.
 Guess its time checking out phones from other vendors. Aka Sennheiser HE60.._

 

It appears we're looking for the same things (i.e. SR-Lambda and HE60). I'm in no rush though and I don't really have the cash to spare right now anyway so if I see anything I'll be sure to let you know.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm actually beating out the Japanese Stax collectors and they are completely insane... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've been keeping an eye on there and some of the prices really seem to be getting up there. They even seemed to have ridiculous prices on the SRD7s (non Pro).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been keeping an eye on there and some of the prices really seem to be getting up there. They even seemed to have ridiculous prices on the SRD7s (non Pro)._

 

Some prices are really crazy but I've still landed a few bargains there. Things have to be pretty cheap because of all the extra charges but Rinkya can help with the VAT and other tariffs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There are the same items there week after week and they never sell so some of the prices ar not the real market value.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I think i'm now a fully qualified member of Team Vintage Stax, since i successfully sniped an SR-X mk3 w/ SRD-7. 

 Perhaps foolishly. The seller described them thusly: 



 What have i gotten myself into?_

 

I was bidding on them as well.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was bidding on them as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I saw that. Not nearly as hard as i was. I was pretty disappointed that i got 'em for about 1.50 less than my max bid.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I saw that. Not nearly as hard as i was. I was pretty disappointed that i got 'em for about 1.50 less than my max bid._

 

Yep, true. I was not sure it they would work, I was mostly interested in the energizer box.


----------



## wualta

Odd-- I've never seen another SRD-7 rated strictly for 100v.

 Of course, I've never seen earpads that look like fresh hamburger either. 

 This will be an interesting one.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is 450v rms@1kHz_

 

Thanks for clearing that up - it would have been surprising if Stax had lowered the voltage swing.

 I wonder if a switch to the 727 would be worthwhile. I haven´t been able to find any reviews comparing the 727 to the 717. (And no Stax dealers where I livehttp://hfimage.head-fi.org/smilies/frown.gif)

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I won't fight you for a Sr-Lambda but if any of the phones I'm missing come along... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Good to know!
 Since I have pretty much given up getting an SR-Lambda from the western countries. The bidding on eBay.de, .com, .at, etc. are simply insane.

  Quote:


 On more friendly terms, bidding on Y!JP is pretty different from ebay so some adjustment is need and be aware of the fees and shipping limitations. 
 

I am aware of the additional shipping cost and Rinkya fees. Just have to read up the details, so I know how much it is.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It appears we're looking for the same things (i.e. SR-Lambda and HE60). I'm in no rush though and I don't really have the cash to spare right now anyway so if I see anything I'll be sure to let you know._

 

Yes, seems like we are looking for the same items.
 Keep on looking and tell me if you find a pair you can't afford. It might be within what I find fair.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for clearing that up - it would have been surprising if Stax had lowered the voltage swing.

 I wonder if a switch to the 727 would be worthwhile. I haven´t been able to find any reviews comparing the 727 to the 717. (And no Stax dealers where I livehttp://hfimage.head-fi.org/smilies/frown.gif)

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I few weeks back Audiod did a brief 727/ 717 comparison in this thread and preferred the 717. As I recall he said the 727 sounded tube-like, in a poor way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Odd-- I've never seen another SRD-7 rated strictly for 100v.

 Of course, I've never seen earpads that look like fresh hamburger either. 

 This will be an interesting one._

 

The 100v units were for Japan only since the original bas was only 200v so you should be able to use it in the US if the caps aren't shot. 

 The pads will turn nasty after a few decades. The 1972 SR-X Mk2 I bought was especially bad and the SRD-7 that came with it was full of rust... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good to know!
 Since I have pretty much given up getting an SR-Lambda from the western countries. The bidding on eBay.de, .com, .at, etc. are simply insane._

 



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am aware of the additional shipping cost and Rinkya fees. Just have to read up the details, so I know how much it is._

 

The fees can suck if you want something that is cheap since there is a limit.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I few weeks back Audiod did a brief 727/ 717 comparison in this thread and preferred the 717. As I recall he said the 727 sounded tube-like, in a poor way._

 

Exactly! I directly compared a 717, 727II & 007t a while ago. I used my O2, Lambda Pro and 404. On the O2 I liked the 717. The Pro and 404 I liked the 007t. The 727II sounded rolled off and lifeless. I was real disappointed. If you have O2’s stick with the 717. My 007t and 717 are perfect for all my electrostatic headphone needs. The 717 also sounds great with my Koss ESP-950’s.

 AudioD


----------



## spacemanspliff

hey I will sell you my SR-Lambda for "only" $1500! lol

 sorry you guys have so many issues obtaining one. they are such musical cans. 

 mine are in very good condition with barely any wear showing at all.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 100v units were for Japan only since the original bias was only 200v so you should be able to use it in the US if the caps aren't shot._

 

I'm just used to seeing multiple voltages on the backs of SRD-7s. Are you sure ericj won't have a problem long term, assuming everything else is working? If he ends up having the only pair of medium-bias SR-X, that could be kinda cool.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads will turn nasty after a few decades. The 1972 SR-X Mk2 I bought was especially bad and the SRD-7 that came with it was full of rust..._

 

I've seen pads that were worn out, but they didn't resemble a road accident. I guess it's possible the owner tried to color the pads as they wore. I *have* seen some strangely rusty SRD-7s. Makes ya wonder.

 .


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I few weeks back Audiod did a brief 727/ 717 comparison in this thread and preferred the 717. As I recall he said the 727 sounded tube-like, in a poor way._

 

Thanks - got it. ("Dull and boring")

 cheers 

 Tom


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I few weeks back Audiod did a brief 727/ 717 comparison in this thread and preferred the 717. As I recall he said the 727 sounded tube-like, in a poor way._

 

Thanks - got it. ("Dull and boring")

 cheers 

 Tom


----------



## billinkansas

Great Stax thread - becoming the _War and Peace_ of Headfi.

 I just got the O2. My Stax amps are the old SRM-1/MKII and the SRM-007t. I find that they sound better out of the SS SRM-1/MKII for the first hour or so after I power it all up, but then better with the SRM-007t later on after the amp warms up and the cans have a good zap in them. Anyone else experience this?

 The O2s are still slightly on the dark side for me, but some pre-DAC digital EQ helps. Not thrilled about EQ'ing cans of this caliber though.

 Still listening and learning. Original Lamdas on the way, so we'll see how they fare and compare.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great Stax thread - becoming the War and Peace of Headfi.

 I just got the O2. My Stax amps are the old SRM-1/MKII and the SRM-007t. I find that they sound better out of the SS SRM-1/MKII for the first hour or so after I power it all up, but then better with the SRM-007t later on after the amp warms up and the cans have a good zap in them. Anyone else experience this?

 The O2s are still slightly on the dark side for me, but some pre-DAC digital EQ helps. Not thrilled about EQ'ing cans of this caliber though.

 Still listening and learning. Original Lamdas on the way, so we'll see how they fare and compare._

 


 I have a 717, SRM-1 mk2 pro and 007t. My favorite on the O2's is the 717. I agree that the O2's can be a little dark on the 007t. The SRM-1 drive the O2 ok as far as tonal balance but does not have the smoothness and musicality of the 007t or 717. The 717 has good bass definition and punch also. IMO the best Stax amp for the O2 is the 717 not the 007t.

 You will love the Low bias Lambda's on the 007t and SRM-1. IMO when properly driven the O2's smoke any of the Lambda series (and anything else for that matter). I think of the LB Lambda's as the Quad 57 of headphones.


 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm just used to seeing multiple voltages on the backs of SRD-7s. Are you sure ericj won't have a problem long term, assuming everything else is working? If he ends up having the only pair of medium-bias SR-X, that could be kinda cool._

 

The Japanese market has always had 100v Stax units while later there were some multi voltage units. I think they just did it to piss me off.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All SR-X versions (except the Pro) were 200v models. The first 230v headphone was the SR-Sigma. 

 If the caps have a 250v rating it will work fine but 200v units might not like it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've seen pads that were worn out, but they didn't resemble a road accident. I guess it's possible the owner tried to color the pads as they wore. I *have* seen some strangely rusty SRD-7s. Makes ya wonder._

 

The pads turn red for some reason when they start to break down. Dunno why though. It will happen a few years after the vinyl wears off. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 717, SRM-1 mk2 pro and 007t. My favorite on the O2's is the 717. I agree that the O2's can be a little dark on the 007t. The SRM-1 drive the O2 ok as far as tonal balance but does not have the smoothness and musicality of the 007t or 717. The 717 has good bass definition and punch also. IMO the best Stax amp for the O2 is the 717 not the 007t.

 You will love the Low bias Lambda's on the 007t and SRM-1. IMO when properly driven the O2's smoke any of the Lambda series (and anything else for that matter). I think of the LB Lambda's as the Quad 57 of headphones.


 AudioD_

 

The darkness is mostly amplifier and system dependent. Damn you high capacitance drivers!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really like the SR-Lambda. It simply does very few things wrong and the main flaws of the other Lambdas is less apparent.


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 717 also sounds great with my Koss ESP-950’s.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you compare amps with the ESP-950's?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you compare amps with the ESP-950's?_

 

I have listened to the 950's with the 717, 007t & SRM-1mk2 pro, but not the 727II. The 950 is more polite at upper mid and high frequencies than the Lambda series and likes an amp with wide dynamic range and a tight deep bass. The 717 is my first choice. The 950 has great dynamics (even with the Koss E90) and can play loud without all the upper midrange glare that you get when you play the Lambdas loud. I think that is why so many people like them for Rock music. Delicate well recorded music I still prefer my LB Lambda's and Pros. I'm surprised that more people have not tried their 950's with a better amp. Any bad rap on the 950 should be blamed on the Koss amp. C'mon Koss its time to upgrade your amp, the headphones deserve it! Stax needs some competition.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ C'mon Koss its time to upgrade your amp, the headphones deserve it! Stax needs some competition._

 

[applauds] Hear, hear!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey I will sell you my SR-Lambda for "only" $1500! lol

 sorry you guys have so many issues obtaining one. they are such musical cans. 

 mine are in very good condition with barely any wear showing at all._

 

Sure you would!
 Getting hold of an SR-Lambda is not difficult at all. But getting them at a fair price (~$150) sure make it a lot harder.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have listened to the 950's with the 717, 007t & SRM-1mk2 pro, but not the 727II. The 950 is more polite at upper mid and high frequencies than the Lambda series and likes an amp with wide dynamic range and a tight deep bass. The 717 is my first choice. The 950 has great dynamics (even with the Koss E90) and can play loud without all the upper midrange glare that you get when you play the Lambdas loud. I think that is why so many people like them for Rock music. Delicate well recorded music I still prefer my LB Lambda's and Pros. I'm surprised that more people have not tried their 950's with a better amp. Any bad rap on the 950 should be blamed on the Koss amp. C'mon Koss its time to upgrade your amp, the headphones deserve it! Stax needs some competition._

 

I agree the 950 sounds better with the 717 amp. Still it's ok with the less powerful Stax SRM3.

 When I compared the Koss amp and the Stax SRM3 directly with the 950, I was surprised that there appeared to be channel separation issues. The soundstage of the Stax amp was much wider. Could these mean too much cross-talk in the Koss amp?


----------



## luvdunhill

most likely I'll be "voicing" my KGSS project with the Koss ESP-950 headphone... i.e. choosing internal wiring, caps, bias points, psu, etc... I still need to try to fix the whistling noise, but just simply tapping the driver isn't too much of an inconvenience these days. I'll be sure to report in!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Is there nothing easy I can do to upgrade my sound with the SRD-7? I was going to get a better dac with the $$ coming in from sales. Opus dac.


----------



## Duggeh

On the electrostatic amps front, heres a real collectors item for you chaps. It's the first one I've seen on that auction site. I'd love to get my mitts on it of course, but the men down the road wont give me enough for my grandmother.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the electrostatic amps front, heres a real collectors item for you chaps. It's the first one I've seen on that auction site. I'd love to get my mitts on it of course, but the men down the road wont give me enough for my grandmother._

 

I see that he's also selling a Jecklin Float electrostatic.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/jecklin-float-...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_most likely I'll be "voicing" my KGSS project with the Koss ESP-950 headphone... i.e. choosing internal wiring, caps, bias points, psu, etc... I still need to try to fix the whistling noise, but just simply tapping the driver isn't too much of an inconvenience these days. I'll be sure to report in!_

 

Is something stuck inside the driver or are the terminals too close together so they are arcing?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the electrostatic amps front, heres a real collectors item for you chaps. It's the first one I've seen on that auction site. I'd love to get my mitts on it of course, but the men down the road wont give me enough for my grandmother._

 

I really doubt that thing will drive the Jeklin's very well. Do you have the specs (tube types) for it? We'll see where it goes price wise...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see that he's also selling a Jecklin Float electrostatic.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/jecklin-float-...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

The Jecklin Floats have to be the most ugly electrostatic headphones ever.
 So ugly that I almost want them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 [size=xx-small]Free bump from page 3. he he[/size]


----------



## Faust2D

I got my SRD-6SB and finally plugged in my SR-Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not want to mess-up my main speaker system so this is what I am using right now: 

 Samsung DVD-HD841 ->[Canare coax cable]-> Entech Number Cruncher 205.2 ->[Canare RCA]->Dared MP-5 -> SRD-6SB ->SR-Lambdas

 This simple and cheap (~$600) system is great. Midrange is very nice and detailed, soundstage is wide and has a lot of air. Bass is there and is right on the money. I like it more than K340 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 with my DYI Hybrid (ECC84 + MOSFET) amp with same front end.

 All I can say at this point is WOW, these are very very nice headphones. They are much better than K340 & QP85, that were my favorites to date. Lambdas have that nice K340 midrange and details and space of QP85. Soundstage on QP85 is wider but Lambdas have the hight. I get to hear placement in the vertical space done correctly for the first time with headphones. QP85 had that to some extent but it was very limited, the strong point was the width and the depth of the stage.

 My next step is to try this setup:

 Grundig Fine Arts CD9000 or Pioneer Elite PD-65 CD Player -> [Goertz Coax] -> DIY Non-OS (CS8412 & TDA1541) DAC with tube p2p output (ECC88 & ECC83) stage -> [DNM RCA] -> DYI Hybrid (ECC88 + JFET) 30W single-ended amp -> SRD-6SB ->SR-Lambdas

 I am sure that I will get a lot more of the Lambda goodness from this setup since the DAC is very resolving and has incredible soundstaging capabilities.

 How does soundstage on Omega 2 and other Lambdas compares to my normal bias SR-Lambdas?


----------



## spritzer

The SR-Lambda really is something else. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omega soundstage is in another league while the Lambdas are all pretty much comparable. The inclusion of the diffusion material does have an impact but it's minimal. What the Omegas bring to the table is a very accurate headstage but the crown jewel is the depth. You can hear sounds at different depths while they all have a bit of air around them. It is recording dependent but if this information is present, then they will reproduce it. Compare them to the He90 where the soundstage is pretty much always the same size no matter how the recording is and it is a diffused blob so no pin point accuracy.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Faust2d

 Please explain your dac further. I have not seen one quite like it.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Jecklin Floats have to be the most ugly electrostatic headphones ever.
 So ugly that I almost want them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 [size=xx-small]Free bump from page 3. he he[/size]_

 

You know you want them, join me on team ElectroJecklin.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Faust2d

 Please explain your dac further. I have not seen one quite like it._

 

A friend designed and made one for me. Talked about it in DYI forum so I will just copy and past some info for you. 

 Custom made Non-OS (CS8412 & TDA1541A) DAC with p2p output stage based on ECC83 and ECC88 follower. No filters what so ever. Transformers are hand made specifically for this DAC, other parts are a mix of NOS Russian high grade military parts and Elna, Tantalum resisters and all that other good staff. Works perfectly and does not get excited like some other non-OS DACs do.











 I just used it in a system with Lambda and results are amazing. 

 My amp also helps a lot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a small amp on the left, with wooden faceplate.






 Insides:










 Power supply is a separate box:






 Back of the amp; sucks when it comes to use with Stax box because speaker posts a far apart:






 Sorry to take this thread off-topic.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lambda really is something else. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omega soundstage is in another league while the Lambdas are all pretty much comparable. The inclusion of the diffusion material does have an impact but it's minimal. What the Omegas bring to the table is a very accurate headstage but the crown jewel is the depth. You can hear sounds at different depths while they all have a bit of air around them. It is recording dependent but if this information is present, then they will reproduce it. Compare them to the He90 where the soundstage is pretty much always the same size no matter how the recording is and it is a diffused blob so no pin point accuracy._

 

So the Omega soundstage is even better.... This is very bad. I can't buy an Omega, well I can, but my wife will kill me or kick me out if the house.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Omega soundstage is even better.... This is very bad. I can't buy an Omega, well I can, but my wife will kill me or kick me out if the house. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

eh look. you have one of the top 5 or so best headphone setups available. rest easy.

 ty for the info.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Omega soundstage is even better.... This is very bad. I can't buy an Omega, well I can, but my wife will kill me or kick me out if the house. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

There's always the Sigma.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's always the Sigma._

 

How do Sigmas compare to SR-Lambda? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Based on my reading around here I thought they were less accurate and more dark sounding, no?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my SRD-6SB and finally plugged in my SR-Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not want to mess-up my main speaker system so this is what I am using right now: 

 Samsung DVD-HD841 ->[Canare coax cable]-> Entech Number Cruncher 205.2 ->[Canare RCA]->Dared MP-5 -> SRD-6SB ->SR-Lambdas

 This simple and cheap (~$600) system is great. Midrange is very nice and detailed, soundstage is wide and has a lot of air. Bass is there and is right on the money. I like it more than K340 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 with my DYI Hybrid (ECC84 + MOSFET) amp with same front end.

 All I can say at this point is WOW, these are very very nice headphones. They are much better than K340 & QP85, that were my favorites to date. Lambdas have that nice K340 midrange and details and space of QP85. Soundstage on QP85 is wider but Lambdas have the hight. I get to hear placement in the vertical space done correctly for the first time with headphones. QP85 had that to some extent but it was very limited, the strong point was the width and the depth of the stage._

 

Success!
 Seems like we have another member joining into 'Team Stax'. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know you want them, join me on team ElectroJecklin. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am watching it for sure.
 1 1/2 day left, and I am a bit undecided. We will see...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A friend designed and made one for me. Talked about it in DYI forum so I will just copy and past some info for you. 

 Custom made Non-OS (CS8412 & TDA1541A) DAC with p2p output stage based on ECC83 and ECC88 follower. No filters what so ever. Transformers are hand made specifically for this DAC, other parts are a mix of NOS Russian high grade military parts and Elna, Tantalum resisters and all that other good staff. Works perfectly and does not get excited like some other non-OS DACs do.

http://www.faust3d.com//Forum/pics/H...DAC/NOSDAC.jpg

http://www.faust3d.com//Forum/pics/H...AC/NOSDAC1.jpg

 I just used it in a system with Lambda and results are amazing. 

 My amp also helps a lot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a small amp on the left, with wooden faceplate.






 Insides:
http://faust3d.com/Forum/pics/HeadFi/Amp/DSCN1493.JPG
http://faust3d.com/Forum/pics/HeadFi/Amp/DSCN1494.JPG

 Power supply is a separate box:
http://faust3d.com/Forum/pics/HeadFi/Amp/DSCN1506.JPG

 Back of the amp; sucks when it comes to use with Stax box because speaker posts a far apart:
http://faust3d.com/Forum/pics/HeadFi/Amp/DSCN1468.JPG_

 

Cool! Nice too see that your DIY DAC and amplifier match up nicely with the SRD-7 and SR-Lambda.
 Some wire mess inside the cabinets I must say.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I guess it don't matter as nobody see this when you have the lid on. And in the end sound is what matters.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Omega soundstage is even better.... This is very bad. I can't buy an Omega, well I can, but my wife will kill me or kick me out if the house. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't worry!
 The SR-Lambda (I have only heard the Pro) are behind the SR-007 and 4070. But you are not missing out of _that_ much, so you should just enjoy what you have...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lambda really is something else. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omega soundstage is in another league while the Lambdas are all pretty much comparable. The inclusion of the diffusion material does have an impact but it's minimal. What the Omegas bring to the table is a very accurate headstage but the crown jewel is the depth. You can hear sounds at different depths while they all have a bit of air around them. It is recording dependent but if this information is present, then they will reproduce it._

 

I can't comment on spritzer's HE90 comments (but would love to - help me hear one in Australia, somebody!) but I concur pretty much with what he says about the Lambdas and Omegas (haven't heard all incarnations of Lambdas but definitely think the 'Normal' Lambdas have a better overall balance though not quite the extension and sharp rendition of the 'Pro' models - yes, I half regret selling my normal Lambdas but, overall, they'll get more airtime with their new owner than they'd ever have gotten with me).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Success!
 Seems like we have another member joining into 'Team Stax'. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And in the end sound is what matters.

 Don't worry!
 The SR-Lambda (I have only heard the Pro) are behind the SR-007 and 4070. But you are not missing out of that much, so you should just enjoy what you have..._

 

Yes, yes, enjoy what you have to the fullest extent. HiFi (including Head-Fi) can be a balance with the wife factor and just think of all the re-discovering of your existing music collection with the Lambdas before even considering that 'what more' of the SR-007 pondering.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do Sigmas compare to SR-Lambda? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Based on my reading around here I thought they were less accurate and more dark sounding, no?_

 

Yes to both statements although they have a sweet musicality to them. I have Normal Sigmas and retained them over the Normal Lambdas due to their increased rarity, uniquely different sound and pure emotion - they were my first electrostatic headphone. They also serve to be my most amusing earspeaker/headphone for anyone who sees me using them! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think if I were to secure a Sigma from scratch nowadays I'd be inclined to try the Pro refitted with the 404 drivers that John Buchanan experimented with. I seem to recall it combined the best offered by the Normal Sigmas and Pro Sigmas without so much of their respective weaknesses.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Omega soundstage is even better.... This is very bad. I can't buy an Omega, well I can, but my wife will kill me or kick me out if the house. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The trick is to not let them know how much all of this costs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can pickup a cheap(ish) used SR-007 now that the Mk2 is due. The Japanese Stax nuts have been unloading theirs for the last two months and this is bound to continue. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't comment on spritzer's HE90 comments (but would love to - help me hear one in Australia, somebody!) but I concur pretty much with what he says about the Lambdas and Omegas (haven't heard all incarnations of Lambdas but definitely think the 'Normal' Lambdas have a better overall balance though not quite the extension and sharp rendition of the 'Pro' models - yes, I half regret selling my normal Lambdas but, overall, they'll get more airtime with their new owner than they'd ever have gotten with me)._

 

I see you still have hope. Good things will come to those who wait. 

 The main difference between the Omegas and other headphones is that they aren't really trying to impress. There is no hype and nothing is overblown. If they were only easier to drive and to please... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes to both statements although they have a sweet musicality to them. I have Normal Sigmas and retained them over the Normal Lambdas due to their increased rarity, uniquely different sound and pure emotion - they were my first electrostatic headphone. They also serve to be my most amusing earspeaker/headphone for anyone who sees me using them! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think if I were to secure a Sigma from scratch nowadays I'd be inclined to try the Pro refitted with the 404 drivers that John Buchanan experimented with. I seem to recall it combined the best offered by the Normal Sigmas and Pro Sigmas without so much of their respective weaknesses._

 

I think that everybody should get to listen to a properly driven SR-Sigma at least once in their life. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Sigma throws a big soundstage but the Omegas can equal it when they are well fed. It's the bass that is the hallmark of the Sigmas and that needs plenty of power to be tamed. The Sigma Pro is a bit of a disappointment IMO and the original is better. I think it is mostly down to the 1um diaphragm so they could be very good with the new drivers.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


 
 Cool! Nice too see that your DIY DAC and amplifier match up nicely with the SRD-7 and SR-Lambda.
 Some wire mess inside the cabinets I must say.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I guess it don't matter as nobody see this when you have the lid on. And in the end sound is what matters. 
 

I heard a few times about the wire mess, but with point to point design it's unavoidable to the wiring to look messy, it's kinda the point 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Anyhow it's far from being a mess, as everything is positioned to have the optimal path and length and different wiring is used in different circuits, circuit boards are mostly used because it's much simpler and cheaper not because it's better. I am not even sure if I should call it DYI, it's as much DYI as First Watt, the guy who made this has 20 year experience in audio design, so it's basically custom made for me. Forgive me for going off-topic once again.


----------



## jjcha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my SRD-6SB and finally plugged in my SR-Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not want to mess-up my main speaker system so this is what I am using right now: 

 Samsung DVD-HD841 ->[Canare coax cable]-> Entech Number Cruncher 205.2 ->[Canare RCA]->Dared MP-5 -> SRD-6SB ->SR-Lambdas_

 

woot! Another member of team Dared MP-5 > SRD-6SB > SR-Lambdas!!! And I thought I was the only one with this ghetto rig... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's amazing how good such a budget rig can sound, no? It's a great starting point, I think. I've heard some most excellent Lambda Pro rigs, Omega 2 rigs, etc., and yes they are certainly far more amazing, but darned if for a couple hundred bux that little setup is quite enjoyable.

 I also agree that the normal biased Lambdas have a nice balance compared to the Pros -- I do think though with proper system building the Pros are capable of more -- they're more finely grained and nimble and you do need to control for the fact they can get out of hand far more easily than the normal-biased ones, but once they do, the extra extension, their extra nimbleness, all quite rewarding.

 I will say that a properly amped Omega is extremely rewarding in the soundstage area, but having owned a fair number of extremely rewarding soundstage rigs (imaging is one of the most impt things to me), the modest little setup you have there does pretty darned good. No it's not one of the big boys -- it's airy, but not as defined or pin-point or 3d as others I've heard, but it's already well into the realm of high-end in my opinion.

 Welcome to team Stax!

 Best,

 -Jason


----------



## spritzer

Some of these vintage Stax setups costs about the same as a HD650, without any of the extra stuff you need for it, and they are far, far superior. They will also scale a whole lot better since the SR-Lambda out of a great amp is simply stunning. The bass gains an octave, the soundstage expands even more and the slightly murky top end is replaced by clean extension. There are also plenty of them out there since they have produced the Lambdas in the tens of thousands. 

 The Lambda Pro's are pretty much a bad SR-Lambda while the Signature is a whole new experience. If it wasn't for the crappy housing then they would rival the He90.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro's are pretty much a bad SR-Lambda while the Signature is a whole new experience. If it wasn't for the crappy housing then they would rival the He90._

 

How is Signature housing differs from SR-Lambda? They look very similar to me.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjcha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_woot! Another member of team Dared MP-5 > SRD-6SB > SR-Lambdas!!! And I thought I was the only one with this ghetto rig... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's amazing how good such a budget rig can sound, no? It's a great starting point, I think. I've heard some most excellent Lambda Pro rigs, Omega 2 rigs, etc., and yes they are certainly far more amazing, but darned if for a couple hundred bux that little setup is quite enjoyable.

 I also agree that the normal biased Lambdas have a nice balance compared to the Pros -- I do think though with proper system building the Pros are capable of more -- they're more finely grained and nimble and you do need to control for the fact they can get out of hand far more easily than the normal-biased ones, but once they do, the extra extension, their extra nimbleness, all quite rewarding.

 I will say that a properly amped Omega is extremely rewarding in the soundstage area, but having owned a fair number of extremely rewarding soundstage rigs (imaging is one of the most impt things to me), the modest little setup you have there does pretty darned good. No it's not one of the big boys -- it's airy, but not as defined or pin-point or 3d as others I've heard, but it's already well into the realm of high-end in my opinion.

 Welcome to team Stax!

 Best,

 -Jason_

 

Dared MP-5 sounds very nice with Sr-Lambda, but I still like my other hybrid amp much better. 

 What really made Dared MP-5 sound good was the new tubes. Stock tubes were horrible, very brittle and grainy sounding. I swapped them out for Ei Elite 12AX7EG and it sounded so much better. 

 I am sure happy to be member of the team Stax. SR-Lambdas are great headphones, they share a lot of great characteristics with my Apogee speakers and this makes me very happy.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How is Signature housing differs from SR-Lambda? They look very similar to me.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is basically the same though the plastic is rumored to be different. What I meant was that the drivers are very different form the earlier Lambda units so the quality of the housing plays a bigger part. This is also why the current Signature gets so much flac.


----------



## Corbet

When someone says "Stax" I can't help but think of $1000+ headphones/amps, but I did some searching and noticed that some are fairly cheap on eBay.

 I was just wondering if it is worth it to spend $200 or less on one of the older systems to atleast experience Stax? Would I need anything else besides the headphones/amp most auctions have? Hell, some only went for $60 or so?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Corbet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When someone says "Stax" I can't help but think of $1000+ headphones/amps, but I did some searching and noticed that some are fairly cheap on eBay.

 I was just wondering if it is worth it to spend $200 or less on one of the older systems to atleast experience Stax? Would I need anything else besides the headphones/amp most auctions have? Hell, some only went for $60 or so?_

 

Yes.

 The $60.00 ones are probably electrets. not electrostatics. They may be ok but are somewhat down in quality from true electrostatics.

 You can get a variety of older electrostatic units with a transformer for about $200.00. These run directly off a power amp. They appear to gain something in oomph with the right amp, compared to the Stax and other headphone amps, but at the cost of detail and ambience. Stax stopped making transformers about a decade ago. You are unlikely to get even an old Stax electrostatic phone and headphone amp for $200.00.

 However, another good starting place is the Stax SR001Mk2 system, which can be had new, for about $240, direct from Japan or on Ebay. This is a small set of electrostatic phones with a portable amp. These are very good for the price. They will give you a taste of electrostatic sound and even if you move on to something else later are still a very good portable set.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do Sigmas compare to SR-Lambda? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Based on my reading around here I thought they were less accurate and more dark sounding, no?_

 

This is more or less true but they have a very euphonic sound and a greater degree of forward projection on sound than any phone I have ever heard, because of the forward location of the drivers.

 There have been several recent threads dealing with them:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...ighlight=sigma


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...ighlight=sigma

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=183810

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...highlight=bais


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The trick is to not let them know how much all of this costs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can pickup a cheap(ish) used SR-007 now that the Mk2 is due._

 

How cheap(ish) are they?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How cheap(ish) are they?_

 

X2. I did a search and couldn't easilly find any recent ones to get a price range 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However, another good starting place is the Stax SR001Mk2 system, which can be had new, for about $240, direct from Japan or on Ebay. This is a small set of electrostatic phones with a portable amp. These are very good for the price. They will give you a taste of electrostatic sound and even if you move on to something else later are still a very good portable set._

 

X2. Although I love my HE60s, the SR001Mk2s get plenty of airtime on my bed rig. They improve with better amplification and even with 4.5 Volt battery power portably. Although they do have a weakness (doesn't everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) of being recessed in the higher frequencies, this seems to balance out a bit with a well burned in silver IC (at least on my portable rig of iRiver H120 or Sony DNE-1 optically connected to Picollo portable DAC through Stax SRD-XPro, all of which can be run on batteries 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 X2. Although I love my HE60s, the SR001Mk2s get plenty of airtime on my bed rig. They improve with better amplification and even with 4.5 Volt battery power portably. Although they do have a weakness (doesn't everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) of being recessed in the higher frequencies, this seems to balance out a bit with a well burned in silver IC (at least on my portable rig of iRiver H120 or Sony DNE-1 optically connected to Picollo portable DAC through Stax SRD-XPro, all of which can be run on batteries 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Indeed.

 A better interconnect pushes up the high frequency response.

 I find silver contact enhancer (e.g. Silclear)to be very helpful.

 I sometimes run the SR003 (i.e. the 001 with a regular Stax plug) with a 717 amp and it is better but I am still impressed with the portable 001. Just get it warmed up, say with a bit of loud sound for a few minutes.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How cheap(ish) are they?_

 

They were going for some 120000yen and that price will only go lower once the new model is out. It's so refreshing to see normal market behavior instead of the hype here.


----------



## educator

Is the new model likely to sound better or be easier to drive?


----------



## spritzer

They are just fixing some of the minor issues that were with the SR-007 and changing the finish so I doubt it. They did do some changes inside the earcup but it was with comfort in mind but it could alter the sound a bit. Unless they totally redesigned the drivers then they will still be hard to drive


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Corbet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When someone says "Stax" I can't help but think of $1000+ headphones/amps, but I did some searching and noticed that some are fairly cheap on eBay.

 I was just wondering if it is worth it to spend $200 or less on one of the older systems to atleast experience Stax? Would I need anything else besides the headphones/amp most auctions have? Hell, some only went for $60 or so?_

 

I got a pair of SR-5s and a SRD-7 separately on eBay for $75 each. I've seen the pair go for between $150 and $200. I love the sound. They're the only electrostats I own and they're my main home can.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Corbet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When someone says "Stax" I can't help but think of $1000+ headphones/amps, but I did some searching and noticed that some are fairly cheap on eBay._

 

$1000 sure is not much when we talk about new Stax. Cause both the SR-007 and 4070 are priced in the $1500 range, and so are the SRM-007t amplifier.

 But you can get a whole lot of Stax fun for less money as well. Either by going to the entry level models, or to some older gear.


----------



## Chu

I've been silently lurking around here and keeping an eye on eBay and Audiogon trying to snag up a cheap SR-Lamda set. I give up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The price of a good SR-L plus the transformer is so close to a 2050A that I might as well buy the 2050A new.

 I was wondering if anyone had some links or could comment on how the SRM-252A compares to higher end stax amps? So far the only review I've seen is a brief comment by Mimuru in this thread that's semi-positive.

 EDIT : Woot, 500+


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$1000 sure is not much when we talk about new Stax. Cause both the SR-007 and 4070 are priced in the $1500 range, and so are the SRM-007t amplifier.

 But you can get a whole lot of Stax fun for less money as well. Either by going to the entry level models, or to some older gear._

 

yup. My setup cost $600 and that is with an amp and pre-amp.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been silently lurking around here and keeping an eye on eBay and Audiogon trying to snag up a cheap SR-Lamda set. I give up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The price of a good SR-L plus the transformer is so close to a 2050A that I might as well buy the 2050A new._

 

I hear you! I have been looking for a cheap SR-Lambda pair for a long time as well, with no luck so far. 
 They either don't ship to my location (damn you German eBay'ers), or go above what I am willing to pay. I keep on looking though..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yup. My setup cost $600 and that is with an amp and pre-amp._

 

Exactly!
 $600 for pre-amp, amplifier, energizer and SR-Lambda is good value for the money.
 I have scored a couple of pretty good deals as well:
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7mk2 -> $140
 * SR-Lambda Pro and black SRM-1/MK2 (mint) -> $450

 So its clearly possible to get a great sounding Stax system for a decent amount of money.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
You know you want them, join me on team ElectroJecklin. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

I am watching it for sure.
 1 1/2 day left, and I am a bit undecided. We will see..._

 

There wont be any Jecklin float electrostatics on me this time.
 They are currently at $361, with 20 minutes remaining. More than I would pay for one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Edit: They ended at $421.
 A bit on the high side. But it might be worth it for a collector...


----------



## Duggeh

How much would you pay for one, I thought I did well to get one with the amp off eBay for about $270. I hit the buy it now within the first hours of the auction.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much would you pay for one, I thought I did well to get one with the amp off eBay for about $270. I hit the buy it now within the first hours of the auction._

 

I would stretch to $300, tops. Thats why I was watching the auction, wondering if I should bite on, because it was at ~$270 a couple of days ago..


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They were going for some 120000yen and that price will only go lower once the new model is out. It's so refreshing to see normal market behavior instead of the hype here._

 

...very interesting. In this case, is EIFL still the place to buy them from? I wonder how low they'll go!


----------



## spritzer

I'm also holding off the Jecklins until I have every other model I'd like to own. They are good headphones but will not integrate with the rest of my stuff so they are a bit of a pain.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...very interesting. In this case, is EIFL still the place to buy them from? I wonder how low they'll go!_

 

EIFL is good but these prices are for used sets. Stax isn't going to cut the SR-007 prices as they will be sold with the Mk2's for the time being at least. This might have changed though since my information on this is a few months old.


----------



## Tachikoma

I just won a SRM-T1W off yahoo japan and I'm thinking about getting a couple tubes to roll with; can I get away with buying unmatched pairs? and is it necessary to make adjustments to the bias?

 ... and I'm getting someone to build this: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/head3.htm
 Will it also need matched tube pairs? (In case anyone's worried I'm not actually building it, I'm just procuring the parts for my builder)


----------



## spritzer

It is necessary to adjust the bias of the tubes so they'll last longer and matched pairs will make your life so much easier. For a balanced amp like the Gilmore it's really a necessity to match every component. The tubes will also age at the same rate


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was wondering if anyone had some links or could comment on how the SRM-252A compares to higher end stax amps? So far the only review I've seen is a brief comment by Mimuru in this thread that's semi-positive.

 EDIT : Woot, 500+_

 

The 252 is a really nice sounding unit (surprise!). I use it to drive my SR-202, SR-003 & Koss ESP-950 in my bedroom system. It is a lower gain unit and needs a good driving source. It's nicely made and compact. It does not have the output to drive at ear shattering levels, but the sonics are well balanced and clean. It is no match for my 717 or 007t for bottom end, transparency or dynamics. It is musical and satisfying.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

I just got my new HE60/HEV70 system earlier this afternoon and they do sound very good out of my T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I managed some whole 14 minutes of listening time before the wire cutters were out and the connector hacked off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad that I finally listened to Carl and bought one of these...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my new HE60/HEV70 system earlier this afternoon and they do sound very good out of my T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I managed some whole 14 minutes of listening time before the wire cutters were out and the connector hacked off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad that I finally listened to Carl and bought one of these..._

 

Welcome to the "Not everything with a Stax Connector has to be a Stax" Club! You can be sure of many happy listening hours ahead, Spritzer. I just picked up my Stax terminated Koss ESP950s and look forward to a similar, if different, discovery afternoon myself.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my new HE60/HEV70 system earlier this afternoon and they do sound very good out of my T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I managed some whole 14 minutes of listening time before the wire cutters were out and the connector hacked off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad that I finally listened to Carl and bought one of these..._

 

Wait until you hit the BH with 'em...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 252 is a really nice sounding unit (surprise!). I use it to drive my SR-202, SR-003 & Koss ESP-950 in my bedroom system. It is a lower gain unit and needs a good driving source. It's nicely made and compact. It does not have the output to drive at ear shattering levels, but the sonics are well balanced and clean. It is no match for my 717 or 007t for bottom end, transparency or dynamics. It is musical and satisfying.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I haven't heard the higher end Stax amps but I feel your description is also true comparing the 252 against transformer boxes. The 252 really is musical and I think it's perfectly adequate for powering the less demanding earspeakers. It doesn't provide enough current to drive the O2s especially well but the SR-003 sounds great through them. I should try my SR-404s with it sometime.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my new HE60/HEV70 system earlier this afternoon and they do sound very good out of my T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I managed some whole 14 minutes of listening time before the wire cutters were out and the connector hacked off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad that I finally listened to Carl and bought one of these..._

 

I'm glad to see you're enjoying them. I really like the HE60 myself, even out of the HEV70. It's not a sound signature I'd have expected to like as much as I do but I just found them so pleasant and easy to listen to. I'd love to hear them out of a better amp and source, especially if those HE60s were my own pair.





 In the meantime I might have to see if I can convince Carl to let them out of the house again sometime.


----------



## spritzer

One quick note about reterminating them, it is a pain! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The wires are very small but since they use the same configuration as the Orpheus and the wires are color coded it's easy to use the He90 service manual to get the pinout. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to the "Not everything with a Stax Connector has to be a Stax" Club! You can be sure of many happy listening hours ahead, Spritzer. I just picked up my Stax terminated Koss ESP950s and look forward to a similar, if different, discovery afternoon myself. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll use them quite a bit but there is some fierce competition coming in. Since I have never spent much time with sets I've had over the years I've always liked the HE60 better then the HE90 even though big brother is technically "better". 

 Congrats on the ESP950. Did you buy the set with the Stax PC-OCC cable?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait until you hit the BH with 'em..._

 

I'll do that today. I can't wait! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad to see you're enjoying them. I really like the HE60 myself, even out of the HEV70. It's not a sound signature I'd have expected to like as much as I do but I just found them so pleasant and easy to listen to. I'd love to hear them out of a better amp and source, especially if those HE60s were my own pair.





 In the meantime I might have to see if I can convince Carl to let them out of the house again sometime. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The HEV70 is fine for casual listening but only in a very limited range on the volume control. Too low and the sound is flat and boring and if you push it too hard it shows its true solid state colors. 

 I think he should let them come out and play. When there is no shipping or customs hassle involved. 

 I might even go a little crazy and buy a second set even though I should put the money into my amp project. That is going to be a real drain on the resources.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the ESP950. Did you buy the set with the Stax PC-OCC cable?_

 

Yes, another [AK]Zip electrostatic finds its new home with me.


----------



## spritzer

Ok I'll admit it, I spent the entire morning doing nothing except feeding the CDP and finishing the HEV70 adapter cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They really do get a whole lot better with the Blue Hawaii but nothing is perfect. There is a very slight edge on the upper midrange, pretty similar to the etch the He90 has. The soundstage is less diffused then the He90 but the soundstage is similar, a bit too large and stretched horizontally. I actually prefer the HE60's bass to the He90 as it doesn't extend as low and thus hasn't got the same bass artifacts. While not in the Omega league these are very, very good headphones and certainly a nice upgrade over any of the Lambdas. 

 Where do you HE60 owners get your head- and earpads? I've already bought out the entire stock here in Iceland and I can't stand the distributor so less contact with them the better. I've been meaning to bug Jan Meier about some spare parts for the HE90 but I might ask him about the He60 spares as well. It's really a shame that the He90 stuff doesn't fit as it is so much nicer. Sweet, sweet leather... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, another [AK]Zip electrostatic finds its new home with me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very cool! I've got to buy the ESP950 one of these days...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They really do get a whole lot better with the Blue Hawaii but nothing is perfect. There is a very slight edge on the upper midrange, pretty similar to the etch the He90 has._

 

How does the upper treble sound when it's loud? i.e. Miles' laser-beam trumpet on "Kind of Blue" or the 7th note that the solo violin plays on Edouard Lalo's Symphonie espagnole (I had a master class once where the lecturer was joking around and "played" this note behind the bridge 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Does it sound kind of rolled off and diffused? Like it has loss some of its punch?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the upper treble sound when it's loud? i.e. Miles' laser-beam trumpet on "Kind of Blue" or the 7th note that the solo violin plays on Edouard Lalo's Symphonie espagnole (I had a master class once where the lecturer was joking around and "played" this note behind the bridge 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Does it sound kind of rolled off and diffused? Like it has loss some of its punch?_

 

Not something I'd listen to although "Kind of Blue" should be around here somewhere. I'm listening to some metal right now at very high levels to see how they hold up and they are a bit diffused in the HF and "glossed over" so a lack of a better word for it. There is definite lack of attack compared to either Omega. This is pretty annoying after a while since I'm so used to the Stax treble but every traducers has its quirks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my new HE60/HEV70 system earlier this afternoon and they do sound very good out of my T1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I managed some whole 14 minutes of listening time before the wire cutters were out and the connector hacked off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad that I finally listened to Carl and bought one of these..._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am glad you are enjoying them. Cause we seem to have about the same taste when it comes to electrostatic headphones, and I am seriously looking into acquiring a HE60...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I am glad you are enjoying them. Cause we seem to have about the same taste when it comes to electrostatic headphones, and I am seriously looking into acquiring a HE60..._

 

They are really good when you ditch the HEV70 and a great buy at 1500$ or so. They are a well deserved Tier Two phone with their big brother and the SR-Ω. 

 Btw. I'll drop you a PM


----------



## Elephas

Dared MP-5 (2x Telefunken ECC85, Siemens EM87) driving the SR-007 through the Illusion ESC-1001. Sound is not bad!


----------



## spritzer

Very nice! I would try a higher powered tube amp to compare. How is the top end on the SR-007 compared to the T1W and the KGSS?


----------



## Faust2D

Hi there! What is this Illusion ESC-1001, transformer box? How much was it and how good is it?


----------



## spritzer

It's a transformer box and it sells for some 70000 yen in Japan. You can buy it directly from the manufacturer. See here


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a transformer box and it sells for some 70000 yen in Japan. You can buy it directly from the manufacturer. See here_

 

Do they make normal bias boxes as well?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very nice! I would try a higher powered tube amp to compare. How is the top end on the SR-007 compared to the T1W and the KGSS?_

 

This system sounds surprisingly good. I'm very pleased with the O2's brighter and airier sound with this combo! Bass is tight, deep and impactful. I think it is competitive versus the KGSS and definitely better than the SRM-T1W, which makes the O2 darker, muddier and closed-in. I don't think the T1W can drive the O2, but it does OK with the Airbow and Lambda Pro.

 I'm using a set of generic speaker cables to connect the MP-5 with the Illusion. I plan to bring the Illusion and O2 to local audio shops to try some of their speaker cables and integrated amps.

 I'm currently looking for an integrated amp that will do triple duty, driving small, efficient speakers, the Illusion, and the K1000. A 300B amp is an option.


----------



## spacemanspliff

The Illusion is about $605 usd btw.

 I use my Parasound amp for my SRD-7. I don't think it would be a good idea with the K1000 though. 30 watts per.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dared MP-5 (2x Telefunken ECC85, Siemens EM87) driving the SR-007 through the Illusion ESC-1001. Sound is not bad!




_

 

is this through your Accuphase? Just curious!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are really good when you ditch the HEV70 and a great buy at 1500$ or so. They are a well deserved Tier Two phone with their big brother and the SR-Ω. 

 Btw. I'll drop you a PM 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You are SO tempting me! Bad boy, bad boy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dared MP-5 (2x Telefunken ECC85, Siemens EM87) driving the SR-007 through the Illusion ESC-1001. Sound is not bad!




_

 

Nice!
 If I am not wrong you are the only one around here with an SR-007 and Illusion ESC-1001. Sound like you like them as a combo as well.


----------



## Elephas

Yes, source is the Accuphase DP-500. I'm a bit embarrassed to admit I'm listening to Britney Spears' "Everytime" right now, but it sounds good and I like the song.

 I don't think the MP-5+Illusion is better than the KGSS for the O2, but it comes surprisingly close.

 Click to view


----------



## spacemanspliff

Mods: Please ban Elephas now for embarrassing everyone with that admittance.

 Seriously man L O L!!!!!

 To each their own I am jamming out to Dethklok. So HOWDY DO!!


----------



## Elephas

Hey, I listen to some metal too.

 I will accept whatever punishment the Stax Mafia deems appropriate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm looking at this CD cover and trying to forget about her MTV Awards comeback performance.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mods: Please ban Elephas now for embarrassing everyone with that admittance.

 Seriously man L O L!!!!!

 To each their own I am jamming out to Dethklok. So HOWDY DO!!_

 

and how does "Duncan Hills Coffee Jingle" sound on SR-Lambdas?


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and how does "Duncan Hills Coffee Jingle" sound on SR-Lambdas? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That isn't on the regular cd I think. At least I have not heard it but IT SOUNDS ****ING GREAT!!!!

 Really, surprised/happy with the SQ. Drums are kicking and the GUITARS SING!! It is so funny that the band is really talented lol.

 Oh and yeah Britney does look hot there Elphas. Pity she's a complete nutter now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This system sounds surprisingly good. I'm very pleased with the O2's brighter and airier sound with this combo! Bass is tight, deep and impactful. I think it is competitive versus the KGSS and definitely better than the SRM-T1W, which makes the O2 darker, muddier and closed-in. I don't think the T1W can drive the O2, but it does OK with the Airbow and Lambda Pro.

 I'm using a set of generic speaker cables to connect the MP-5 with the Illusion. I plan to bring the Illusion and O2 to local audio shops to try some of their speaker cables and integrated amps.

 I'm currently looking for an integrated amp that will do triple duty, driving small, efficient speakers, the Illusion, and the K1000. A 300B amp is an option._

 

The T1(S,W) aren't really suitable for the SR-007 but they can drive the SR-Ω but badly. They work fine with the rest of the stuff. 

 I would just buy some silver wire online and cotton tubing and you have a very nice speaker cable that beats most of the "audiophile stuff". 

 Please check out some of the low power SET's. Plenty of power for any adapter and the best sound you can get. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are SO tempting me! Bad boy, bad boy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







_

 

I'll take out my punishment in the form of more headphones delivered to me. It's so hard to choose which one to listen too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, I listen to some metal too.

 I will accept whatever punishment the Stax Mafia deems appropriate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm looking at this CD cover and trying to forget about her MTV Awards comeback performance.

 http://www.superlyrics.com/image/large/kGRUOoFQHP/Greatest_Hits__My_Prerogative.jpg[IMG][/i]
 [/td] [/tr] [/table]


We'll have to think up some cruel and unusual punishment for that... [img]http://www.head-fi.org/forums/images/smilies/very_evil_smiley.gif_


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We'll have to think up some cruel and unusual punishment for that... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've got it ! How about about a month of listening to nothing but Grados.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got it ! How about about a month of listening to nothing but Grados.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 Grados!!! I think could even be too much...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll take out my punishment in the form of more headphones delivered to me. It's so hard to choose which one to listen too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Having 50+ (or something) electrostatic headphones to choose from sure is a punishment in itself. I only have 6 pairs, which probably mean that I am a nice guy and don't need much punishment. he he


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Having 50+ (or something) electrostatic headphones to choose from sure is a punishment in itself. I only have 6 pairs, which probably mean that I am a nice guy and don't need much punishment. he he_

 

I think I'm still hovering around 40 or more but I'm not quite sure. There are a lot of cans that haven't made it to me yet. 

 Punishment is good...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Bloody hell!

 Nearly had a heart attack just now! Listening to EST's "Strange Place For Snow" on my office set up (Naim CD3 > 32.5 > 140 > SRD-7 > SR-5 Golds) and suddenly I hear a bloke breathe out just over my right shoulder...

 ...I fly round, scared out of my wits (I'm working alone here), then realise it's on the CD! (End of track 7, but don't expect the same shock now I've told you.)

 Phew! (This either says a lot about this sytem OR about the state of my nerves!)


----------



## spritzer

That is really something speakers can't do. This can be a curse though as with some of the late 50's and early 60's stuff the engineers were a bit unsure where to put the singer so they would shift around the soundstage. This makes some of the early Beatles stuff almost comical...


----------



## luvdunhill

so, those WPI male stax connectors are very strange... first, heating up the center pin and pulling it out didn't work so well for me. What did was drilling (yes, a power drill) from the socket side and popping the inside contacts out. You do have to press pretty hard, but it worked like a charm. Second, the pins aren't always lined up perfect... nerve racking for people like me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Third, it's strange that you have to thread up the cable and then solder on the tip side of the connector, as the pins aren't removable and are hollow. Very strange indeed...


----------



## spritzer

They are pretty strange indeed but you'll get the hang of it when you have soldered quite a few... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I always use my drill press to remove the center pins of both pins and sockets. Since the WPI parts use the stupid American measurements 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 a 3.5 or a 4mm drill does the job perfectly. What I really can stand is the 5/16 or so width of the socket as all my drills are metric. I need to buy a new stepped one for any future amp projects. 

 One omission by the amp builders that is unforgivable in my opinion is that they never fill up the center hole if the plug is intended for Pro bias. The plugs are often just marked "Stax" and not "Pro only" so a very nasty mistake could happen. A simple piece of plastic that plugs into the middle socket will prevent all of this


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bloody hell!

 Nearly had a heart attack just now! Listening to EST's "Strange Place For Snow" on my office set up (Naim CD3 > 32.5 > 140 > SRD-7 > SR-5 Golds) and suddenly I hear a bloke breathe out just over my right shoulder...

 ...I fly round, scared out of my wits (I'm working alone here), then realise it's on the CD! (End of track 7, but don't expect the same shock now I've told you.)

 Phew! (This either says a lot about this sytem OR about the state of my nerves!)_

 

He he
 You're not alone. My 'phones have scared me as well, when making people suddenly appear behind me.

 The result of very real sound reproduction I guess..


----------



## John Buchanan

Recently I let my friend listen to the Stax Space Sound CD and she nearly jumped out of her skin when Sabine whispered in her ear LOL. Very real sounding.


----------



## Chu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Recently I let my friend listen to the Stax Space Sound CD and she nearly jumped out of her skin when Sabine whispered in her ear LOL. Very real sounding._

 

Wondering, does the license allow you to post this disk online?


----------



## Faust2D

I looked around a found and very good condition reasonably priced black SRM-1 MK2 Pro, so I got it. Now I can't wait what the difference in sound will be between it and my SRD-6SB box. This Stax thing is addictive.


----------



## Tachikoma

Depends on what kind of amplifier you were using with the SRD-6SB I suppose, but with my setup the SRD-6SB was utterly unlistenable.


----------



## edstrelow

I was just listening to an old Frank Sinatra recording on the Koss 950/Stax SRM3 and as the song ended I heard this fairly loud creaking beside me - it was on the cd, probably the conducter on a wooden platform.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked around a found and very good condition reasonably priced black SRM-1 MK2 Pro, so I got it. Now I can't wait what the difference in sound will be between it and my SRD-6SB box. This Stax thing is addictive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Make sure you let it warm-up before any critical listening. At least a half an hour. The SRM-1 mk2 Pro is one of Stax's better amps. It is transparent to the source. It will not filter out any bad in a recording. I think you will like it.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make sure you let it warm-up before any critical listening. At least a half an hour. The SRM-1 mk2 Pro is one of Stax's better amps. It is transparent to the source. It will not filter out any bad in a recording. I think you will like it._

 

I let my setup play on the headphone stand for an hour or so before I do any listening. With my tube and MOSFET gear it's a must 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am very interested how better / different SRM-1 mk2 Pro will sound when compared to the transformer box. After doing some research I understand that SRM-1 mk2 Pro is somewhat better then lost of new Stax amps. I read that it's running full class A and part quality is very good.


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked around a found and very good condition reasonably priced black SRM-1 MK2 Pro, so I got it. Now I can't wait what the difference in sound will be between it and my SRD-6SB box. This Stax thing is addictive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

did you buy it off the listing in audiogon?


----------



## jcn3

okay, guys, i'm now joining the stax team. getting the srs-4040 system. can't wait!

 this thread is a little tough to navigate at 171 pages. isn't it time for a "new new" thread?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_okay, guys, i'm now joining the stax team. getting the srs-4040 system. can't wait!_

 

Great choice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It will hopefully keep you satisfied for years to come...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_did you buy it off the listing in audiogon?_

 

Maybe, why do you ask?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I let my setup play on the headphone stand for an hour or so before I do any listening. With my tube and MOSFET gear it's a must 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am very interested how better / different SRM-1 mk2 Pro will sound when compared to the transformer box. After doing some research I understand that SRM-1 mk2 Pro is somewhat better then lost of new Stax amps. I read that it's running full class A and part quality is very good._

 

It is certainly better then the 313 but I'd still take the T1, 717 and 007t over it. The 006t is another matter though. 

 All amps need to warm up and especially the big tube amps. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this thread is a little tough to navigate at 171 pages. isn't it time for a "new new" thread?_

 

This is the *new* thread...


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe, why do you ask? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

i had looked at that and submitted a bid, but never raised my offer. my big hesitation was that i hadn't sold my other stuff yet.

 definitely is in awesome shape and should be a great amp! congrats!


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is certainly better then the 313 but I'd still take the T1, 717 and 007t over it. The 006t is another matter though._

 

As a soon to be owner of a 006tii, which i'm sure will suit me fine, what are it's weaknesses relative to the other amps you mentioned?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is certainly better then the 313 but I'd still take the T1, 717 and 007t over it. The 006t is another matter though. 

 All amps need to warm up and especially the big tube amps. 
_

 

Are difference between A, B and C variations noticeable? I remember reading the the C serial numbered units are the best sounding.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As a soon to be owner of a 006tii, which i'm sure will suit me fine, what are it's weaknesses relative to the other amps you mentioned?_

 

I haven't heard the II but the older model was less transparent and a bit edgier then the T1. The T1 uses better parts so that's hardly a surprise.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are difference between A, B and C variations noticeable? I remember reading the the C serial numbered units are the best sounding. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I liked the C unit I had the most and they do have better parts but you will gain much more by doing some simple mods to any one of them. Replacing the input jacks and the wiring would be the first step.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I liked the C unit I had the most and they do have better parts but you will gain much more by doing some simple mods to any one of them. Replacing the input jacks and the wiring would be the first step._

 

What kind of wire works best in them?


----------



## spritzer

The best wire I've ever used is small gauge soft silver that is slowly drawn. Purity doesn't matter that much but insulation is critical. Cotton is the best for low voltages (>100v) but it can be a hazard when you go higher then that. I've used a double cotton layer and then a wide teflon tube when working with high voltages and that works very well.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The best wire I've ever used is small gauge soft silver that is slowly drawn. Purity doesn't matter that much but insulation is critical. Cotton is the best for low voltages (>100v) but it can be a hazard when you go higher then that. I've used a double cotton layer and then a wide teflon tube when working with high voltages and that works very well._

 

I use the slow drawn solid silver from handmade audio. I don't use cotton, but 600v rated 3:1 heatshrink (also available from handmade), which sounds better than teflon, IMHO. I find that slightly larger gauges sound better, and around 22ga is just right.

 I should also add that I really like the copper Auric hook-up wire, and it has nice synergy with Audience au24 interconnects (same manufacturor). Top me, it has all the same properities that silver wire has and a touch of warmth. A very nice cable.


----------



## spritzer

I've used their silver wire for PC's with good results. Since air is really the best insulator I try to as much of it as I can but you need something a bit tougher a teflon shell is a good security barrier. I'll heatshrink one of these days. I trey to use a very small gauge for any line level stuff, typically 30AWG or lower, since the less metal, the better the sound. 

 I'll keep that in mind for some future project that doesn't really deserve a full silver wiring.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wondering, does the license allow you to post this disk online?_

 

I am pretty sure the content is copyrighted.
 Cause attempt have been done earlier to share the content, and they have been removed quite fast.

 Best tip is to keep an eye with eBay Germany, where the CD show up once in a while.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked around a found and very good condition reasonably priced black SRM-1 MK2 Pro, so I got it. Now I can't wait what the difference in sound will be between it and my SRD-6SB box. This Stax thing is addictive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Congratulations!
 The SRM-1/mk2 is a pretty good amplifier, especially for its price tag. You might end up liking it more than the SRD-6 combo (depending on the amplifier you use to drive the SRD-6 that is).


----------



## humanflyz

Is there any e-stats worth trying for besides the O2? I would have had an O2 system, but the fit is just not right. In fact, I find that because my ears are longer than most people's, the circular type of fit doesn't fit me nearly as well as the oval-shaped pads. And the O2 proved to be the same: I just never got a good fit no matter how hard I tried each time I had a chance to listen to them. 

 And I've also had a Lambda Pro + SRM-M1 rig before, but I no longer remember what that even sounds like because it's been so long. There are of course the HE60 and HE90s that fit my head much better, but I just don't see myself paying that much for headphones anymore. 

 So if you were in my position, what would be a good choice?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *humanflyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any e-stats worth trying for besides the O2? I would have had an O2 system, but the fit is just not right.
 *snip*_

 

Since the O2 fit is not for you, I suggest you try out one of the Lambda's.
 4070 (closed back), SR-404, or a vintage SR-Lambda (Normal, Pro or Signature). They all have the same sized oval pads, which might fit your ears better than the circular O2 pads. They sound "pretty" good as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I for one find the 4070 to be just awesome.
 The benefit of a closed back-wave, for sound insulation, matched up with top notch sound quality.


----------



## mikeymad

I did some poking around, and I didn't find much. 

 Has there been any playing around with the cables of the O2? I have seen people recable the HE60's, and the GS-1000's, and the K1000's among others. All high end phones (IMO). So it got me thinking, has anyone put a new set of cables on the O2's? Not just a replacement, but an 'upgrade'. 

 Thoughts? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,

 (*** FEDEX is still showing that my ES-1 is coming in tomorrow ***)


----------



## spritzer

You can't just recable with some modders favorite wire as capacitance has a huge impact on the sound. Nobody makes any cables that are suitable for this role so you are stuck with the excelent Stax cable. Many have tried to make a better cable but most have failed.


----------



## Tachikoma

Take 6 solid core UPOCC silver/copper wires, insulate them with cotton, then put spacers between them; maybe that will beat the stax cable?


----------



## spritzer

It did so when I tried it but the cable wasn't very reliable so I put the idea aside. I did use solid core silver with cotton and silicone rubber insulation. The spacers were some scrap pieces of plastic I drilled and then I heatshrinked the whole thing. I'm going to be comparing some cables soon and the SR-Ω is the perfect tool. Easy to replace the cable and the mounting mechanism isn't hard to duplicate.


----------



## mirumu

I finally got around to replacing the blown fuse in my SRM-252A. It was a pain getting regular solder to stick to the fuse the way it did with the fuse Stax had originally used. I didn't have any flux around so cleaned everything off again and tried some lead-free silver solder I had instead and this did form a good bond.

 I connected up the SR-003s and at first I wondered if something was wrong. They hadn't been used for a while but it really sounded terrible. After ten minutes or so though they sounded more like their old selves again. It just confirms to me that even with these tiny and efficient stats some time to charge is essential. Now I had tried the O2s with this amp in the past, and found that while it was passable if you were in a bind and just needed an amp it really couldn't drive them especially well. They just weren't able to wake the O2s from their slumber. I don't think anyone would expect any different either given that it's the cheapest Stax amp with the usual 5-pin connector. 

 Since picking up some SR-404s a while back, I'd been keen to try them with the 252A to see how well they performed. I thought maybe the experience would be similar to using the O2s but with the 404s being driven a little better given their lower demands. I hooked the 404s up and left them for a while to charge up. After about an hour I came back to them and tried them out, and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. The sound was clean and lively with a surprising amount of impact in the bass. Now I have no doubt the 323, 727, etc sound better (I haven't heard them myself) but this combination is very respectable and sounds better than the mid-fi dynamic rigs I've heard. If these results are remotely similar to the SRS-2050A system (SRM-252A + SR-202) I can understand the praise that system gets in the entry level Stax segment.


----------



## spritzer

Glad to hear you got it working again. The 252 is a very good upgrade over any of the older models but the Xh fits perfectly into my computer setup. It was actually better at driving the HE60 then the HEV70 and it works very well with the Lambdas. A HD6x0 and an upgraded cable or a Basic Stax setup? It's a no brainer for me...


----------



## krmathis

Birgir, you are aware of the SR-X/mk2 pair on eBay right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If you don't have enough of them that is...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, you are aware of the SR-X/mk2 pair on eBay right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If you don't have enough of them that is..._

 

Yeah I saw it. I do have two sets already but one more can't hurt..


----------



## ericj

SR-X III & SRD-7 showed up. 

 The ends of the wires coming out of the SRD-7 looked a bit off - you know, 3/4" of wire showing, last 1/4" tinned, whole thing corroded - so i chopped off the last 1.5" of wire, stripped, and re-tinned. 

 Hooked up to the same Akai UC-W5 that powers my ESR-500, they charged up in about 30 seconds and work fine. 

 If there's any channel imbalance it's less than the typical imbalance between my own ears. 

 Letting it all warm up a bit while i eat lunch, then I'll try 'em out some more. A little later I'll open up the SRD-7 and hit the switch contacts and jacks with deoxit.


----------



## spritzer

Sounds like a great deal you got there. When the SR-X has imbalance issues they aren't subtle so buy some new earpads and you are all set.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X III & SRD-7 showed up._

 

Great to see that they showed up, and that there are no channel imbalance (as mentioned by the seller). So you end up with a very good deal I suppose.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to see that they showed up, and that there are no channel imbalance (as mentioned by the seller). So you end up with a very good deal I suppose. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Considering we've seen a normal-bias SRD-7 go for $175 this year, I sure think so. 

 For my next trick, I'll find myself a lambda or sigma for less than $100. 

 (shaa, right, even i don't think i can pull that one off. not any time soon at least.)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It did so when I tried it but the cable wasn't very reliable so I put the idea aside. I did use solid core silver with cotton and silicone rubber insulation. The spacers were some scrap pieces of plastic I drilled and then I heatshrinked the whole thing. I'm going to be comparing some cables soon and the SR-Ω is the perfect tool. Easy to replace the cable and the mounting mechanism isn't hard to duplicate._

 

Can you explain why you use cotton and rubber insulation rather than whatever is more commonly used. This type of discussion usually degenerates into a flame war in the cable/tweak section but I think we are all more open-minded here.


----------



## edstrelow

The local paper, the LA Times, had a report of a Sennheiser knock-off

http://www.latimes.com/business/la-f...,6266115.story

 for the CX 300 IEM, which I incidentally also have, although I think (hope)mine is genuine. Head-fi forums have also been discussing these for some time know.

 However it got me to thinking, why aren't there any electrostatic knock-offs? I would welcome some other manufacturers, even if they were somewhat shady.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For my next trick, I'll find myself a lambda or sigma for less than $100. 

 (shaa, right, even i don't think i can pull that one off. not any time soon at least.)_

 

I wish you good luck!
 Cause I have been all over the place for several months, and still have not found an SR-Lambda (or Sigma) anywhere near $100. They usually end up selling for $2-300 or more.

 Some bargains show up once in a while though, so keep the hope up.


----------



## ericj

Yeah, you never know. 13 years ago i left my crappy job early saying i didn't feel well, walked to a thrift store, and bought a pair of ADS L810 speakers for $25. 

 Not that I've ever seen a pair of headphones truly worth owning in a thrift store, excepting the koss hv/10 i picked up for $4 strictly to satisfy my curiosity about that product line -- very simple dome geometry, but relatively huge for that era, and made of mylar far thinner than you'd see on most headphones even today. Great frequency response for relatively cheap 70's dynamic headphones, really poor diaphragm control. 

 There have been reports of smaller yamaha orthos and a Pro 30 from thrift stores, so, it's plausible, I guess. The real shame is that estate sales and yard sales are uncommon in this region.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_SR-X III & SRD-7 showed up._

 

Yay!


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_If there's any channel imbalance it's less than the typical imbalance between my own ears._

 

Double yay.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_I'll hit the switch contacts and jacks with deoxit._

 

I second this initiative. My SRD-7 had this problem, and it's the kind of problem that can make you think your new wonderphone is unbalanced or distorted or worse. Good ol' DeoxIT.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you explain why you use cotton and rubber insulation rather than whatever is more commonly used. This type of discussion usually degenerates into a flame war in the cable/tweak section but I think we are all more open-minded here._

 

I simply find it better then the popular stuff. I've used teflon for the last 10 years but after I switched over to cotton, the colorations are clear. It's more natural sounding without any obvious drawbacks but it's a pain to assemble. The quality of the wire is also a big deal as are the connectors.


----------



## spritzer

I was having some slight issues with the right driver of my new HE60's. It was fine with the HEV70 but when I fed it Pro bias the membrane started to misalign a little bit causing a hissing sound. A slight tap on the side of the housing fixed it for a while but it came back. The drivers were clean of any debris so the reason had to electrical. 

 The change from 540v to 580v is so small it can't matter so the lower bleed resistor Stax uses must be causing the problems. Stax uses 5meg compared to the 10meg Sennheiser used but the size of the resistor affects the constant charge mode of the driver, i.e. it makes sure that the drivers aren't drawing any current, just voltage. This is the same problem that surfaced with the HE90's so I installed a 5.6meg resistor on the bias line and it has vanished. 

 The problem is most likely due to some build variations so I posted this if it should happen to anybody else.

 Edit: If anybody would open up the HE60 then you will most likely damage the crappy screws that hold them together. It happened to me and they were all completely unusable. These screws can be very hard to source so I started to disassemble random stuff I had and found very similar screws in the original Sony PS1 game controller. They are slightly bigger but work like a charm.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I simply find it better then the popular stuff. I've used teflon for the last 10 years but after I switched over to cotton, the colorations are clear. It's more natural sounding without any obvious drawbacks but it's a pain to assemble. The quality of the wire is also a big deal as are the connectors._

 

I noticed this effect of cotton insulation as well. It was a surprise for me is how good old wiring with cotton insulation from Grundig and Philips equipment sounds when used in tube amps. We also tried to use a very interesting wiring with cotton insulation from the firing systems of old MIG jet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (silver, molibdenium and some other thing alloy), it was very nice as well very transparent and fast. I have two long runs that I tried as speaker wires and with my ribbon speakers they sound superb.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: If anybody would open up the HE60 then you will most likely damage the crappy screws that hold them together. It happened to me and they were all completely unusable. These screws can be very hard to source so I started to disassemble random stuff I had and found very similar screws in the original Sony PS1 game controller. They are slightly bigger but work like a charm._

 

Tip of the year - those are the crappiest screws ever, and only half of mine are stripped... Now to find a junker PS1 controller.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However it got me to thinking, why aren't there any electrostatic knock-offs? I would welcome some other manufacturers, even if they were somewhat shady._

 

but who is gonna buy them? It is already hard enough to get people to buy the real stats.......


----------



## ericj

Yeah, that's what I figure. 

 For a couple thousand bucks a factory in china can crank out 100k pairs of fake expensive earbuds and get them on the streets right away, and the mass market will gobble them up. 

 You can't plug 'stats into a headphone jack. Smaller customer base.


----------



## Faust2D

Very true. Maybe if someone makes hybrids like AKG K145, but I remember reading that K145 did not sell well anyhow.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very true. Maybe if someone makes hybrids like AKG K145, but I remember reading that K145 did not sell well anyhow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Totally off topic - i need to update my K145 thread with details: 

 It turns out that my beloved K145 IS NOT STOCK. 

 Some proto-head-fier in austria modded them!

 Well, sortof. 

 The stock K145 has a plastic grille in front of the drivers and rather mundane 1/2" thick pleather pads. 

 Mine has no grille, and the pad is a 1/4" thick donut of foam rubber with a lycra bonnet stretched over it - similar to a hd480 for example. 

 I'm curious what it would sound like stock, but frank says those parts are long gone. Luckily, i bought the last K145/S wire headband in existance after my K145 plastic headband snapped unexpectedly and for no particular reason. 

 Still, I'd rather see something like the toshiba back-electret, which could actually be powered by a headphone jack. Maybe not an ipod, but likely any head-fi approved amp.


----------



## Faust2D

That would be very nice. An electret that will work with any headphone jack would get a lot of interest here, but I don't think anyone will make it. It's cheaper to make tiny dynamic drivers stick them in cheap plastic and sell for ~$70....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that's what I figure. 

 For a couple thousand bucks a factory in china can crank out 100k pairs of fake expensive earbuds and get them on the streets right away, and the mass market will gobble them up. 

 You can't plug 'stats into a headphone jack. Smaller customer base._

 

You have a point about the market, but if they were to drop the price the way the knock-offs generally do to, say 1/4 of the original priice, they might sell enough.

 At any rate it would be nice to see someone else making stat drivers other than Stax, Koss and Sennhesier (rarely).


----------



## AudioCats

if somebody can make a cigarette pack sized amp that will last more than 8 hours on a full charge, the electret IEM's can be a big hit. Being electret there is no need for bias supply, no need to build up the charge, and cabling is simpler.

 now where can I find some electrect film, anybody know?


----------



## ericj

heck, how about you see what happens when you run signal backwards into a cheap electret mic.


----------



## AudioCats

not sure if you can always by pass the little FET inside the mic....


----------



## ericj

Ah, true. Might require some surgery.


----------



## AudioCats

Maybe a TakeT IEM is more feasible.


----------



## ericj

hah! how would you get the ruffle that small? 

 Looks like you can buy a 21cm*23cm piece of Emfit electret film for about $50. But that stuff is exotic, and for a back-electret we may as well use a rigid material and it doesn't matter how thick it is.


----------



## AudioCats

Emfit? how thick is it, and from where?


----------



## ericj

www.emfit.com

 it's 70um film, but in a back-electret configuration the thickness doesn't really matter -- it serves as the back stator.


----------



## AudioCats

so that is piezoelectric, any "normal" electret film like what Stax used in the SR-40?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed this effect of cotton insulation as well. It was a surprise for me is how good old wiring with cotton insulation from Grundig and Philips equipment sounds when used in tube amps. We also tried to use a very interesting wiring with cotton insulation from the firing systems of old MIG jet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (silver, molibdenium and some other thing alloy), it was very nice as well very transparent and fast. I have two long runs that I tried as speaker wires and with my ribbon speakers they sound superb. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very cool wires you've got there! The only problem with cotton is that it is a bit of a pain to work with and it doesn't suit the 10km reel manufacturing of companies like Nordost, Transparent and Tara Labs. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tip of the year - those are the crappiest screws ever, and only half of mine are stripped... Now to find a junker PS1 controller._

 

I searched long and hard for that one. The added bonus is that there are 8 screws in each controller. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I have to find a replacement rubber band as mine are cracked and broken...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish you good luck!
 Cause I have been all over the place for several months, and still have not found an SR-Lambda (or Sigma) anywhere near $100. They usually end up selling for $2-300 or more._

 

Damn! Seems like the SR-Lambda's are starting to sell for higher prices as well, just like the Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



eBay.co.uk -> STAX LAMBDA SRD-7/SB ELECTROSTATIC EARSPEAKERS/PHONES!! sold for £205.00 ($418.00)...

 Hopefully I am able to score a pair really soon!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn! Seems like the SR-Lambda's are starting to sell for higher prices as well, just like the Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



eBay.co.uk -> STAX LAMBDA SRD-7/SB ELECTROSTATIC EARSPEAKERS/PHONES!! sold for £205.00 ($418.00)...

 Hopefully I am able to score a pair really soon! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think it is about time to start to unload some of mine or will the price continue to rise... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would have payed 200$ max for those but somebody must really want a SR-Lambda.


----------



## Faust2D

This was a very nice deal: SR-Lambda . If I did not have them I would have gotten this package.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This was a very nice deal: SR-Lambda . If I did not have them I would have gotten this package. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I had to force myself not to buy those...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would have payed 200$ max for those but somebody must really want a SR-Lambda._

 

I did hang on until it reached £80, where I bailed out. I am willing to pay upwards of $200 for a pair, but nothing more. Hopefully something show up!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This was a very nice deal: SR-Lambda . If I did not have them I would have gotten this package. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yes, that was a pretty good deal.
 Sadly my bid did not go all the way for that pair either...


----------



## spritzer

Prices have been rising quite a bit lately. The SR-Lambda seems to be constantly at 300$ or more with the Sigmas going for insane prices. Man I'm glad I started to collect Stax when deals were to be had.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Prices have been rising quite a bit lately. The SR-Lambda seems to be constantly at 300$ or more with the Sigmas going for insane prices._

 

Yes, I have noticed their recent price increase as well.
 Luckily I am not looking into a Sigma, and an SR-Lambda is not 'that' crucial either. So I take my time...

  Quote:


 Man I'm glad I started to collect Stax when deals were to be had. 
 

You should be!
 Cause some of the current prices are just insane. Luckily I have scored most of the vintage Stax 'phones I want to own as well.


----------



## spacemanspliff

lol that last ebay listing was bought by someone in MY exact zipcode!

 I would not sell mine for less than $700 with the SRD-7 so yeah. They are worth the $$ though aren't they? Think about it. I like these better than any dynamic I have ever heard.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I have noticed their recent price increase as well.
 Luckily I am not looking into a Sigma, and an SR-Lambda is not 'that' crucial either. So I take my time..._

 

C'mon you know you need some Sigma in your life... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should be!
 Cause some of the current prices are just insane. Luckily I have scored most of the vintage Stax 'phones I want to own as well._

 

I'm about 10 phones from my goal but they will be hardest... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol that last ebay listing was bought by someone in MY exact zipcode!

 I would not sell mine for less than $700 with the SRD-7 so yeah. They are worth the $$ though aren't they? Think about it. I like these better than any dynamic I have ever heard._

 

What they are worth is a tough question. They are 28 years old or less and if they break there is no hope for them. You could have Stax install some of the new drive units but it will be very expensive. 

 Their worth based on sound quality alone is without a doubt very high but the new phones are simply much better. You can get a used SR-007 for 700$ in Japan and there is no contest which is the better phone.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would not sell mine for less than $700 with the SRD-7 so yeah. They are worth the $$ though aren't they? Think about it. I like these better than any dynamic I have ever heard._

 

Yes, based on sound quality alone they might be worth $700.
 But to me no Lambda is worth more than what I have to pay for the top end in-production Lambda. Meaning about $350, which are the price of an SR-404.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_C'mon you know you need some Sigma in your life... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nope. I can manage very well without a Sigma.
 If I want to look like a fool I just put on the 4070's.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so that is piezoelectric, any "normal" electret film like what Stax used in the SR-40?_

 

No guarantee you'd be able to make a headphone from it, but here's the page whence you might leap to a .pdf describing the Emfit electret (not piezo) film:

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache...lnk&cd=1&gl=us


----------



## ericj

Emfit seems like really cool stuff, but I think much of that coolness - like it's stretchyness and flexibility and ability to react to pressure - add to the cost but don't help us make any headphones. 

 Gotta be something cheaper, too.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope. I can manage very well without a Sigma.
 If I want to look like a fool I just put on the 4070's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You'll break eventually... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It was actually the Sigma that got me started in this crazy ride of mine as I just had to own one of them ugly beasts.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You'll break eventually... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It was actually the Sigma that got me started in this crazy ride of mine as I just had to own one of them ugly beasts._

 

I just couldn't reconcile ths Sigma sound signature, so it's power has no sway with me... that it is butt ugly was just reinforcement. One day, I would like a quick listen to some Gamma Pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just couldn't reconcile ths Sigma sound signature, so it's power has no sway with me... that it is butt ugly was just reinforcement. One day, I would like a quick listen to some Gamma Pro._

 

The Sigmas aren't for everybody but they grow on you. I need to get me some Gamma Pro's soon.


----------



## spacemanspliff

The 007 is next for me. First I need to get a job though lol. Still in school for another 6 months.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 The Sigmas aren't for everybody but they grow on you. I need to get me some Gamma Pro's soon. 
 

Haven't you gotten Carl's pair yet? o_O


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haven't you gotten Carl's pair yet? o_O_

 

Nope. It seems we both lack a bit of follow through...


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But to me no Lambda is worth more than what I have to pay for the *top end in-production Lambda*. Meaning about $350, which are the price of an SR-404._

 

Isn't that the Airbow SR-SC1?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't that the Airbow SR-SC1? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

That would be it but it's price is certainly out of context with the rest of the lineup. 68k for a Lambda is a bit excessive but there is one on it's way to me now....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't that the Airbow SR-SC1? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, sort of. Its a Lambda 'phone, but with its YEN68,000 price tag its out of context with the rest of the Stax Lambda line.
 But then the 4070 might qualify as a Lambda as well. Since it use the exact same drivers, earpads, cable, and more...


----------



## educator

spritzer;3317745You can get a used SR-007 for 700$ in Japan and there is no contest which is the better phone.[/QUOTE said:
			
		

> How does one do that?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one do that?_

 

Be very, very, very lucky. I've only seen one go for that little and one SR-Ω with SR-007 drive units go for 750$.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ You can get a used SR-007 for 700$ in Japan ....._

 

Really?
 Where?How?
 I'd like to get a spare pair for spouse and guests.
 I've paid $1500 for an used european Omega II.
 I don't complain since it's worth it, but on the other hand it's unreasonable to buy Stax products originally distributed by the official distributor.
 I mean, repairability isn't worth it if you can simply get two for the price of one.On top of that repair is probably unreasonable anyway since new drivers most probably cost more than $700 in Europe.
 The markup of the european distributors is way too steep, and it gets worse every day with the rising value of the Euro.


----------



## Elephas

I think US$1500 is higher than current prices for a new SR-007 in Japan, but not that bad.

 Japan street prices for the SR-007 are low, probably the lowest they've ever been. This was a reason I "accidentally" bought an SR-007 earlier this year, by bidding too high compared to everyone else who were presumably aware of the steadily dropping price. 

 It was the best and happiest case of over-bidding I've ever made.

 Used SR-007 prices should be even lower now, with the imminent MkII.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really?
 Where?How?
 I'd like to get a spare pair for spouse and guests.
 I've paid $1500 for an used european Omega II.
 I don't complain since it's worth it, but on the other hand it's unreasonable to buy Stax products originally distributed by the official distributor.
 I mean, repairability isn't worth it if you can simply get two for the price of one.On top of that repair is probably unreasonable anyway since new drivers most probably cost more than $700 in Europe.
 The markup of the european distributors is way too steep, and it gets worse every day with the rising value of the Euro._

 

The online auction sites are a good place to start but you need a deputy service and their fees can really add up. The will be a rush of SR-007's on the market as soon as Stax announces the Mk2 but they are keeping it mostly under wraps for now. 

 Paying the Euro or US dealer markup isn't a good idea really but it looks like Stax will be forcing people to do so if the want the black Mk2 since they will be for the German and US market only. Warranty issues aren't a problem if you buy form one of the more reputable retailers and most of the problem can be fixed by anyone with knowledge and skill. The SR-007 elements are about 800$ for the pair but I think that will include new earpads, though I'm not sure.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be very, very, very lucky. I've only seen one go for that little and one SR-Ω with SR-007 drive units go for 750$._

 

Yes, I bet those deals don't show up at a regular basis.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Paying the Euro or US dealer markup isn't a good idea really but it looks like Stax will be forcing people to do so if the want the black Mk2 since they will be for the German and US market only._

 

So Stax will limit the black SR-007Mk2 to the German and US market only?
 Unlike how they did with the black SR-007 (non-mk2), which was available outside those two countries...

 Its a shame! But I can manage with a brown pair I guess..


----------



## spritzer

Both versions will have black earpads, cable etc. but the Japanese will have a clear polished housing while the US and EU will have the black housing we saw pictures of. I hope Stax will come to their senses and sell both versions in Japan but only time will tell.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both versions will have black earpads, cable etc. but the Japanese will have a clear polished housing while the US and EU will have the black housing we saw pictures of. I hope Stax will come to their senses and sell both versions in Japan but only time will tell._

 

Now I understand what you mean (hopefully...).
 That this picture are showing the clear polished version for the Japanese market, while the US and Europa one will have black housing. Right?


----------



## spritzer

Yeah that's what I meant.


----------



## krmathis

..and here are the black Euro one (if the pictures show the end product that is):










 I am still undecided which one I like the most. But I would probably end up with the cheapest one, regardless of its chassis colour.


----------



## spritzer

Now for a Stax history lesson. As some of you may know there is a phantom phone in the Stax lineup that isn't even listed on the product site, The SR-2. I have seen two sets for sale over the years (I'm kicking myself for not buying them) but their existence has been shrouded in mystery. I knew that they were very short lived, even if they ever made it out of the prototype form. The housing is a bit different from the SR-1 and SR-3 while they used the original SR-1 donut pads. They were made in '67 or '68 but none of this was confirmed until I got the November 1968 Hi-Fi News magazine earlier today. I payed a lot of money for it on epay but in there is a review of the SR-2 mated with the SRD-5. It is obvious that the SR-2 was very short lived as the SR-3 was released in late '68. This is very fascinating to a Stax nut like me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..and here are the black Euro one (if the pictures show the end product that is):










 I am still undecided which one I like the most. But I would probably end up with the cheapest one, regardless of its chassis colour. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Just buy both of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going with a silver model as that fits my tastes better but I might end up with both


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now for a Stax history lesson._

 

I have wondered about this. Cause I have noticed the gap between SR-1 and SR-3 in the Stax history list.
 Thanks for clearing that out! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Just buy both of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going with a silver model as that fits my tastes better but I might end up with both 
 

Well, I could.
 But I think two SR-007's in total might be enough for me. The SR-007BL and one of the upcoming SR-007mk2's.


 Damn! Another HE60 slipped out of my hands. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I had the winning bid 10-12 seconds before the end time, but someone managed to place a higher bid in the last few seconds.
http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=180160681339


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn! Another HE60 slipped out of my hands. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I had the winning bid 10-12 seconds before the end time, but someone managed to place a higher bid in the last few seconds.
http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=180160681339_

 

I knew this one was going to get ugly. I usually snipe auctions like this if I can because it is better to be the sniper rather then the one that got sniped. 

 I like the He60 quite a bit but the lack of attack in the HF range is driving me nuts. Piano sounds off and so do other instruments with a sharp attack. The notes are simply dulled so where they should be slightly piercing they aren't. This extends even down into the midrange as voices sound "off" compared to the Omegas and the He90. They are subdues and just a little bit "boxed in", i.e. they don't expand as much as they should. 

 There is a lot to like though as they aren't as diffused as the big brother, the bass, while it lacks extension, isn't as thin as the He90 and they are quick, very quick.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I knew this one was going to get ugly. I usually snipe auctions like this if I can because it is better to be the sniper rather then the one that got sniped._

 

Well said!
 Thats why I set myself a max target before I start bidding. So I don't get carried away...

 I will keep on looking though.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the He60 quite a bit but the lack of attack in the HF range is driving me nuts. Piano sounds off and so do other instruments with a sharp attack._

 

yup... is it possible that this is the BH though? I listened to pabb1's HE60 on the on of Justin's KGSS amps and felt like this problem immediately solved itself. Perhaps you can try this combo out for me?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well said!
 Thats why I set myself a max target before I start bidding. So I don't get carried away...

 I will keep on looking though._

 

That's a good plan, much better then buyers remorse. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yup... is it possible that this is the BH though? I listened to pabb1's HE60 on the on of Justin's KGSS amps and felt like this problem immediately solved itself. Perhaps you can try this combo out for me?_

 

It's certainly not the amp or the system as a whole as it would show up on some of the other headphones as they are much more resolving, at least some of them. I started to notice it out of a SRM-Xh amp that has seen better days so it's the phones. 

 The KGSS is in pieces again so I can't test it.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... 

 There is a lot to like though as they aren't as diffused as the big brother, the bass, while it lacks extension, isn't as thin as the He90 and they are quick, very quick._

 

From the time I had with them out of the 717 that was my over-riding primary impression. Speed. Like with the AMT, an effect which is caricatured by a lack of heave in the low end.


----------



## Faust2D

So I got my SRM-1/MK-2 today, when compared to SRD-6SB (powered by Dared MP-5) it's got more low level details, dynamic swings are mostly the same and bass is more accurate. The difference is not dramatic but it's an improvement in most things. I had the whole system running for 2 hours before any critical listening. 

 Even when compared to my custom amp + SRD6, SRM-1/MK-2 still has an edge in precision and overall accuracy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





My only complain is that it sound a bit cold since I do not have tubes anywhere in the chain. I need to try it with different sources, I think I need my tube DAC as a source, but I am not dismantling my main speaker system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also want to try it with my fiends Museatex Bitstream DAC, Entech is not cutting it, LOL.

 I noticed one thing, tuba sounds a lot better with SRM-1/MK-2, don't know why.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it has to do with better controlled, and therefore tighter bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If someone tells me that Lambdas have no bass I will laugh at them.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed one thing, tuba sounds a lot better with SRM-1/MK-2, don't know why.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it has to do with better controlled, and therefore tighter bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If someone tells me that Lambdas have no bass I will laugh at them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If anything, my lanbda Nova and 404 have a low bass peak. 

 I have heard a story several times that the original Lambda was designed partly at the urging of Mercedes Benz so that they could have a stat phone with which to monitor low frequencies in their cars. Is this true? Any original source for this?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From the time I had with them out of the 717 that was my over-riding primary impression. Speed. Like with the AMT, an effect which is caricatured by a lack of heave in the low end._

 

They are indeed very fast but it is mostly an illusion due to the lack of bass extension. I would still take the lack of bass extension over the bass mess the He90 can throw at you. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I got my SRM-1/MK-2 today, when compared to SRD-6SB (powered by Dared MP-5) it's got more low level details, dynamic swings are mostly the same and bass is more accurate. The difference is not dramatic but it's an improvement in most things. I had the whole system running for 2 hours before any critical listening. 

 Even when compared to my custom amp + SRD6, SRM-1/MK-2 still has an edge in precision and overall accuracy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




My only complain is that it sound a bit cold since I do not have tubes anywhere in the chain. I need to try it with different sources, I think I need my tube DAC as a source, but I am not dismantling my main speaker system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also want to try it with my fiends Museatex Bitstream DAC, Entech is not cutting it, LOL.

 I noticed one thing, tuba sounds a lot better with SRM-1/MK-2, don't know why.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it has to do with better controlled, and therefore tighter bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If someone tells me that Lambdas have no bass I will laugh at them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Let it cook for a few days and the SRM-1 will be noticeably better. Thermal stability is everything with sand amps. 

 The Lambda bass is actually pretty overblown and boomy compared to the best which is why I can't understand the "Stax has no bass" myth. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have heard a story several times that the original Lambda was designed partly at the urging of Mercedes Benz so that they could have a stat phone with which to monitor low frequencies in their cars. Is this true? Any original source for this?_

 

It was the Pro standard (i.e. Lambda Pro) that was designed for the Mercedes "shaking machine" where they tested for resonance and other artifacts in the cars. This was back when Mercedes built good cars unlike the crap today. 

 I've read about this directly from Stax several times in material dating back to 1982 so it is true. I don't think the Pro bias was invented for them, rather it was something they were working on and the lambda capsule was the perfect vessel for the new drivers so they put it into production.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let it cook for a few days and the SRM-1 will be noticeably better. Thermal stability is everything with sand amps. 

 The Lambda bass is actually pretty overblown and boomy compared to the best which is why I can't understand the "Stax has no bass" myth. 
_

 

I will see how it sounds in a few days. Running it for a few days will make a difference especially if the guy that I bought from did not use it for a while.

 What would be a good electrostatic pro biased headphone to compliment SR-Lambda running out of SRM-1? I am not talking Omega here. Something relatively cheap but distinctly different. I also don't like supraural headphones (I guess Stax SR-X is out). Do any other headphones ESP-950, SR-202, 3, 4 offer a wider and more detailed soundstage. I am thinking about selling some of my dynamic cans and getting more electrostatics. It's refreshing to be able to have different sounding headphones, it's so hard to have thit much variety with speakers do to space constrains and much higher costs.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anything, my lanbda Nova and 404 have a low bass peak. 

 I have heard a story several times that the original Lambda was designed partly at the urging of Mercedes Benz so that they could have a stat phone with which to monitor low frequencies in their cars. Is this true? Any original source for this?_

 

Do you have a normal bias Lambda as well? How do you like it?


----------



## spritzer

The 202, Gamma Pro, Sigma Pro or any of the Lambdas are a good option as well as the ESP950. They will all sound very different from the SR-Lambda but the Lambdas do share a sound signature.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good electrostatic pro biased headphone to compliment SR-Lambda running out of SRM-1? I am not talking Omega here. Something relatively cheap but distinctly different. I also don't like supraural headphones (I guess Stax SR-X is out). Do any other headphones ESP-950, SR-202, 3, 4 offer a wider and more detailed soundstage._

 

Well, thats a tough one.
 The Gamma Pro, Sigma Pro or SR-X/Mk3 Pro (if you can find one) are Pro bias 'phones which should have a different sound. Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, SR-404, etc. are other alternatives. But I am not sure if they sound 'very' different from SR-Lambda you already own, since they are tightly related.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, thats a tough one.
 The Gamma Pro, Sigma Pro or SR-X/Mk3 Pro (if you can find one) are Pro bias 'phones which should have a different sound. Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, SR-404, etc. are other alternatives. But I am not sure if they sound 'very' different from SR-Lambda you already own, since they are tightly related._

 

Thanks, how do Gamma Pro sound? I would guess they would hard to find, no?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, how do Gamma Pro sound? I would guess they would hard to find, no?_

 

I suppose they sound similar to the SR-Gamma so slightly more extended then the SR-X mk3 but also not as smooth.

 They aren't as common as the Lambdas and people have been paying way to much for them lately.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, how do Gamma Pro sound? I would guess they would hard to find, no?_

 

Not sure how they sound, cause I have never listened to a Gamma (Pro). But considering that their are totally different construction than the Lambda's I figure they might be worth a try.

 They rarely show up for sale though, and hence might sell for a relative high price. Not as rare and expensive as the SR-X/mk3 Pro though...


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... You will love the Low bias Lambda's on the 007t ..._

 

Just got my l.b. Lamdas. You are right about them with the 007t - this rig is even better than bad sex. Lots of detail and ambience. Now my O2s will just have to sit there for a day or two while I run these and get a feel for them. So far I am very impressed with the Lambdas - you guys were right about them. 

 krmathis - get you a pair, they are certainly worth more than $200 in my estimation.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis - get you a pair, they are certainly worth more than $200 in my estimation._

 

Yes, I am certainly on it.
 Guess I need to raise my bids. Cause I will obviously not be able to get a pair for $150-175..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my l.b. Lamdas. You are right about them with the 007t - this rig is even better than bad sex. Lots of detail and ambience. Now my O2s will just have to sit there for a day or two while I run these and get a feel for them. So far I am very impressed with the Lambdas - you guys were right about them. 

 krmathis - get you a pair, they are certainly worth more than $200 in my estimation._

 

They sure are great.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have a normal bias Lambda as well? How do you like it?_

 

No, I would like to hear one. I have a low Bias Sigma so I have some idea how the low bias Lambda would sound compared to the high bias.

 As regards the Koss 950, suddenly there is some sort of consensus in this thread that these are fine phones, when run on a Stax amp. What I like about them is that they have less of the treble peakiness of most lambdas and less of the low bass boom. But they still give a nice solid bass when required. There is possibly a bit less detail than the lambdas but they may be better for rock/pop music than lambdas.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sure are great. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 These just may be the freshest and most musical of all my cans, will keep listening. Right now, I can't take them off.

 Watch out O2s!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These just may be the freshest and most musical of all my cans, will keep listening. Right now, I can't take them off.

 Watch out O2s!_

 

They are very musical but they are still only a Lambda. The SR-007's have nothing to worry about... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would replace the earpads if your set is still using the originals. You can get from www.audiocubes2.com, they are the SR-202 earpads. You could also remove the damping material inside the cups for a pretty different take on the sound. Be careful though with the foam inside the cups as it will probably break down.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are indeed very fast but it is mostly an illusion due to the lack of bass extension. I would still take the lack of bass extension over the bass mess the He90 can throw at you._

 

well put. I came away with a similar conclusion after comparing my Koss with various dynamics this weekend. However, I think the fastness also gives a nice sense of detail (these terms are somewhat interchangable here, as before reading this, I characterized the Koss as having very nice low end detail)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well put. I came away with a similar conclusion after comparing my Koss with various dynamics this weekend. However, I think the fastness also gives a nice sense of detail (these terms are somewhat interchangable here, as before reading this, I characterized the Koss as having very nice low end detail)_

 

The fastness does give the illusion of extra detail much the same a bright transducer does. All electrostatics are very detailed so we've got nothing to complain about though some are better then others.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are very musical but they are still only a Lambda. The SR-007's have nothing to worry about... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I hope that you are right. My O2s do have a real elegance about them, but they also sound so very distant and dull compared to everything else I have. 

 I already have one of the better Stax amps, and I really don't want to spend 3-4K for an amp to wake them up.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I am certainly on it.
 Guess I need to raise my bids. Cause I will obviously not be able to get a pair for $150-175.._

 

I'm still going to keep that as my max range, I'm sure a deal like that will turn up eventually.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope that you are right. My O2s do have a real elegance about them, but they also sound so very distant and dull compared to everything else I have. 

 I already have one of the better Stax amps, and I really don't want to spend 3-4K for an amp to wake them up._

 

You could try out a KGSS at 1500$. It will not sound like the 007t but it does have extra power on tap and the optional Black Gate caps do mitigate the solid state sound.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could try out a KGSS at 1500$. It will not sound like the 007t but it does have extra power on tap and the optional Black Gate caps do mitigate the solid state sound._

 

I might need to do that.

 It's the top end that sounds so pinched on my present O2 rig.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might need to do that.

 It's the top end that sounds so pinched on my present O2 rig._

 

The KGSS will cure some of it but cable choice helps a lot. Good silver is always the way to go with Stax gear.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might need to do that.

 It's the top end that sounds so pinched on my present O2 rig._

 

I much prefer my SRM-717 over my SRM-007t with the O2's. The sound is more extended on top, more dynamic, deeper bass, less dark sounding. I don't think that I am the only one that likes the 717 over the 007t on the O2's. A 717 can be had used for about $800US. The new 727II is not a good choice for the O2's (dark and rolled off). As much as I like my LB Lambda and Lambda Pro's they are no match for a properly driven O2 in any area IMO.

 AudioD


----------



## billinkansas

Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be firing up the old checkbook again soon. Many here do seem to like the 717 better than the 007t.

 I will say that the O2s can be very seductive even with the 007t, but just a bit distant and not as engaging as I am looking for. The SRM1-MKII does wake them up with brighter eyes than the 007t, but without that last layer of lustful bliss. For now, I think I'll platoon the O2s between the 007t and the SRM1-MKII.

 I guess I like the Lambdas so much because they just seem more complete in their delivery. The Lambdas beat the pants off my D2000, which got my attention.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These just may be the freshest and most musical of all my cans, will keep listening. Right now, I can't take them off.

 Watch out O2s!_

 

As Birgir, I think the SR-007 have nothing to worry about! They are clearly a step ahead of the Lambda series...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still going to keep that as my max range, I'm sure a deal like that will turn up eventually._

 

That was my plan as well. To stick with my max range and just wait.
 But all this talk about the SR-Lambda gotten me even more interested in them..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already have one of the better Stax amps, and I really don't want to spend 3-4K for an amp to wake them up._

 

I had the same thoughts. But I now understand that a more powerful amplifier can put the SR-007 to "real" life.
 So now I am prepared to shell out hard cash for an after-market amplifier. I am still looking for that amplifier though...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had the same thoughts. But I now understand that a more powerful amplifier can put the SR-007 to "real" life.
 So now I am prepared to shell out hard cash for an after-market amplifier. I am still looking for that amplifier though..._

 

As an added bonus all your 'stats will sound better driven by one of the bigger amps, the SR-Lambda is no exception. The SR-Sigma and the SR-003 are transformed when fed plenty of voltage and current.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As an added bonus all your 'stats will sound better driven by one of the bigger amps, the SR-Lambda is no exception. The SR-Sigma and the SR-003 are transformed when fed plenty of voltage and current._

 

Yes, I bet they all improve with better amplification.
 But from what you and others say, the SR-007 improve the most...

 God known what or when I find a worthy after-market amplifier. The KGBH SE _might_ be it, but I still don't know.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I bet they all improve with better amplification.
 But from what you and others say, the SR-007 improve the most...

 God known what or when I find a worthy after-market amplifier. The KGBH SE might be it, but I still don't know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's obvious that you need a KGBH SE. Stop fighting it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. I just bought a 4070...


----------



## AudioCats

I have finished a multi voltage bias supply circuit and am starting to gather parts for a ES tube amp. Can you guys recommand a good tube model that has good sound and is not too expensive? I don't want to pick the wrong circuit and end up not being able to roll good tubes....
 I was thinking about 5687 since they are abondant on ebay, but I have not idea if the affordable ones (RCA, Tung-sol, Raytheon, philips) are any good.

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have finished a multi voltage bias supply circuit and am starting to gather parts for a ES tube amp. Can you guys recommand a good tube model that has good sound and is not too expensive? I don't want to pick the wrong circuit and end up not being able to roll good tubes....
 I was thinking about 5687 since they are abondant on ebay, but I have not idea if the affordable ones (RCA, Tung-sol, Raytheon, philips) are any good.

 Thanks_

 

The 5687 is a very good choice and they are cheap. All those tubes are pretty good but they will not sound the same. The best impressions of 5687 tubes are in any Modwright swl 9.0 threads on AA or the 'gon. 

 Are you going to build the Tubecad design?


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks Birgir. 

 I am still looking for good circuits. Not sure what the tubecad design looks like......any link?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Birgir. 

 I am still looking for good circuits. Not sure what the tubecad design looks like......any link?_

 

Here you go.

http://www.tubecad.com/november99/page2.html


----------



## jcn3

i just saw a product for sale labeled as an sr-84 pro. as best as i can tell, this is a combination of the sr-80 and srd-x.

 what would a basically never used set in perfection condition go for?

 also, how about a used srm-007t? what should one go for?

 sorry to ask the newb questions, but i'm anxious to be a part of team stax.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I bet they all improve with better amplification.
 But from what you and others say, the SR-007 improve the most...

 God known what or when I find a worthy after-market amplifier. The KGBH SE might be it, but I still don't know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 OK then, let's do a group buy and see if we can cut a deal on 3 or 4 of them.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just saw a product for sale labeled as an sr-84 pro. as best as i can tell, this is a combination of the sr-80 and srd-x.

 what would a basically never used set in perfection condition go for?_

 

Its the SRD-4, actually. I wouldn't pay anything over $100 for an electret, but the SR-80 is supposedly the newest of the bunch, relatively speaking, so it may be worth more than that.


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks Birgir. Lots of good info in that article, I never really thought about how much current the Lambda will need, 8.6mA is a lot.......

 The circuit I am thinking right now is to use multiple LND150 as constant current sources, on top of ECC99/5687, for the output stage. The 5687's halves will be connected in parallel to get more current capability, so 2x 5687 per channel. Since CCS will be used, the supply voltage might not need to be too high and I might be able to get away with using a un-regulated 300v power supply(I have two 300v/150w trans).

 There will be a 10x line & inverter stage to drive the output stage. This can either be done by a tube circuit (12ax7 + 12au7), or two opamps (both set to 10x, one in inverted mode the other one non-inverted). Not very sure about that part yet. 
 if I decide to go the all tube route, the line and inverter stage will be similar to one of Stax amp (SRM-7?) posted in this thread.

 Now if I connect the two halves of a dual-triod in parallel, do the two halves have to be closedly matched? what is gonna happen if they are not matched?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just saw a product for sale labeled as an sr-84 pro. as best as i can tell, this is a combination of the sr-80 and srd-x.

 what would a basically never used set in perfection condition go for?

 also, how about a used srm-007t? what should one go for?

 sorry to ask the newb questions, but i'm anxious to be a part of team stax._

 

They are electrets and while they are the best of the bunch they are no match for the electrostatics. The prices are all over the place but 100-150$ is a good price range. 

 The used 007t are hovering around the 1k$ mark, depending on age and what tubes or adapters are included. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Birgir. Lots of good info in that article, I never really thought about how much current the Lambda will need, 8.6mA is a lot.......

 The circuit I am thinking right now is to use multiple LND150 as constant current sources, on top of ECC99/5687, for the output stage. The 5687's halves will be connected in parallel to get more current capability, so 2x 5687 per channel. Since CCS will be used, the supply voltage might not need to be too high and I might be able to get away with using a un-regulated 300v power supply(I have two 300v/150w trans).

 There will be a 10x line & inverter stage to drive the output stage. This can either be done by a tube circuit (12ax7 + 12au7), or two opamps (both set to 10x, one in inverted mode the other one non-inverted). Not very sure about that part yet. 
 if I decide to go the all tube route, the line and inverter stage will be similar to one of Stax amp (SRM-7?) posted in this thread.

 Now if I connect the two halves of a dual-triod in parallel, do the two halves have to be closedly matched? what is gonna happen if they are not matched?_

 

Just to think that the Lambdas don't need all that much power compared to the SR-007... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That amp would be similar to the 60's model SRA-7S that Carl is working on. It's a good design for the easier to drive models but will choke a SR-007 or any of the other tougher models. I would certainly start with the unregulated PSU since you have the trafos.


----------



## Faust2D

I was looking around a stumbled upon SUPEREX PEP-79E. How bad are they?


----------



## billinkansas

Maybe we can suggest a split in the Headphone forum with a Stax section, like the way they do at Audiokarma with Mcintosh, Sansui, etc? 

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php

 Just a thought. These Stax marathons are crazy, especially since there are several conversations going on at one time here.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking around a stumbled upon SUPEREX PEP-79E. How bad are they? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Buy them, period. Crap sound stock but a strong hand, some heatshrink and they are brilliant out of a Stax amp. I would buy a second set if the seller didn't have an international phobia...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe we can suggest a split in the Headphone forum with a Stax section, like the way they do at Audiokarma with Mcintosh, Sansui, etc? 

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php

 Just a thought. These Stax marathons are crazy, especially since there are several conversations going on at one time here._

 

People don't like splitting up the forums but a separate high voltage forum would be nice. The high end can be argued but if somebody is arguing about what is high voltage we'll come over to his house and hook him up to a Stax amp/adapter...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's obvious that you need a KGBH SE. Stop fighting it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, I desperately need a KGBH SE.
 But I can't get myself to order a $4500 product without having actually seen what it looks like, or even when it will be ready.

 Its already 4-5 months late, and nobody have yet seen any pictures of it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Btw. I just bought a 4070... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Nice! You you obviously could not wait until after the SR-007mk2, as you previously said.
 I hope you end up enjoying them, just as I and others do... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just saw a product for sale labeled as an sr-84 pro. as best as i can tell, this is a combination of the sr-80 and srd-x.

 what would a basically never used set in perfection condition go for?_

 

The SR-84 Pro was Stax' top of the line electret system, consisting of the SR-80 Pro headphone and the SRD-4 energizer.
 The are worth somewhere around $100, or a little bit more if in perfect condition.

 Picture: http://www.stax.co.jp/OLD/Photo/Sr84pro.jpg

  Quote:


 also, how about a used srm-007t? what should one go for? 
 

Around $1000, I guess. Depending if its a Japan sold model, or a local one (100volt vs. 230/120volt), and its condition.
 The 007tII model can be had for $1300 new from Japan. Keep that in mind.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK then, let's do a group buy and see if we can cut a deal on 3 or 4 of them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Group buy on a KGBH SE, which is limited to 10 units only? I don't think thats feasible.
 But I have my Visa card ready, in case I like what I see when the first pictures show up. he he


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe we can suggest a split in the Headphone forum with a Stax section, like the way they do at Audiokarma with Mcintosh, Sansui, etc?_

 

People around here don't want that, and I understand them.
 1. Then we should have separate sub-forums for every brand, right? Stax, Sennheiser, Grado, Beyerdynamic, Sony, Audio-Technica, TakeT, ...
 2. Where would you post questions/information which involve more than one brand? Ex. Stax vs. Sennheiser.

 Splitting the headphone forum is separate sub-forums might be a good idea. But at least not by brand name...


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_People around here don't want that, and I understand them.
 1. Then we should have separate sub-forums for every brand, right? Stax, Sennheiser, Grado, Beyerdynamic, Sony, Audio-Technica, TakeT, ...
 2. Where would you post questions/information which involve more than one brand? Ex. Stax vs. Sennheiser.

 Splitting the headphone forum is separate sub-forums might be a good idea. But at least not by brand name..._

 

There are different ways to approach it, maybe an Electrostatic forum? When (not "if) this thread reaches 10,000 posts, then it will be way past time to do something -
 "tough split" he says as he bites his tongue.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are different ways to approach it, maybe an Electrostatic forum? When (not "if) this thread reaches 10,000 posts, then it will be way past time to do something -
 "tough split" he says as he bites his tongue._

 

A separate Electrostatics sub-forum might be a solution.
 But then I expect the respective fanboys to want separate sub-forums for Dynamic, Balanced armature (IEM), Orthodynamic, AMT (Air Motion Transformer) and Piezoelectric as well.

 Whatever we split the forum into there might be someone who want it this or that way instead. This discussion have been had before, and it gone nowhere so far.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I desperately need a KGBH SE.
 But I can't get myself to order a $4500 product without having actually seen what it looks like, or even when it will be ready.

 Its already 6-7 months late, and nobody have yet seen any pictures of it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It does take a lot of time to build an amp but most of the time is wasted on shipments or waiting for suppliers to get off their ass. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! You you obviously could not wait until after the SR-007mk2, as you previously said.
 I hope you end up enjoying them, just as I and others do... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I got a good deal form a head-fier on a barely used set and I couldn't just say no...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It does take a lot of time to build an amp but most of the time is wasted on shipments or waiting for suppliers to get off their ass._

 

Sure, I am sure it takes time designing and building such a beast.
 I just remember emailing back and forth with Justin in early March (I thought it was January), and he said: "I hope to have it released in 2-3 months".

 I will try to be patient! He he

  Quote:


 I got a good deal form a head-fier on a barely used set and I couldn't just say no... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I see...
 Here I were looking for a used 4070 for more than 6 months. Then shortly after I gave up and bought a new pair this one show up for sale. Not fair!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see...
 Here I were looking for a used 4070 for more than 6 months. Then shortly after I gave up and bought a new pair this one show up for sale. Not fair! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

It didn't actually show up. I was simply asked if I wanted to buy it...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It didn't actually show up. I was simply asked if I wanted to buy it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice! ..and I guess he did not have to beg you to buy it?
 I can't wait to hear what you think of them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! ..and I guess he did not have to beg you to buy it?
 I can't wait to hear what you think of them._

 

I can't wait to get them. The last high end phone until the mk2 is released...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its already 4-5 months late, and nobody have yet seen any pictures of it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I tried to bump the thread over in the amps section a few weeks ago without any replys


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I just bought a 4070... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh ho, what's this? I'll be interested to see your impressions. Personally on my system I still like the O2s better but the 4070s came respectably close given what they're trying to be. Hope you enjoy them!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh ho, what's this? I'll be interested to see your impressions. Personally on my system I still like the O2s better but the 4070s came respectably close given what they're trying to be. Hope you enjoy them! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It was only a matter of time and I'm not really good at waiting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm really looking forward to hearing them and they were only second to the SR-Ω in that regard but since they aren't an endangered species like most of these phones they had to wait. I'm pretty sure I'm going to like them a lot but that doesn't mean I'm not going to post a list of their flaws here...


----------



## spritzer

Page 3 is really poor performance, I must say... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anywho, I just got a package with a few goodies, SRM-T1W, SRD-7, SRD-7 Mk2, SR-X Mk2, SR-5NB, a dinky plastic box marked Stax that was bundled with the SR-5 and an Airbow SR-SC1. I'm a real happy puppy this evening... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The real reason for posting was the voltage issue with my T1W. It was marked by Stax as a 100v only unit with no signs of an external switch. I was relived to see on the PCB that the primaries on the transformer were connected to something that looked a whole lot like the Stax voltage converter. Sneaky Stax had fitted it to the backside of the PCB as they did with the T1 so it wouldn't be clearly obvious. It is switchable to all of the voltages (100v,117v,220v,240v) so if you are buying a used Stax amp from that period and there is a black square with lots of wires going to it, odds are that is can handle all the voltages. 

 Now I'm off to scrub down my new headphones and replace some earpads...


----------



## billinkansas

Nice collection of stuff. Sure could use a SRD-7 Mk2 here in KS.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice collection of stuff. Sure could use a SRD-7 Mk2 here in KS._

 

If you have a normal SRD-7 you can turn it into a Mk2 if you are handy with a soldering iron. 

 ...and no I'm not selling either one of my Mk2's...


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 The real reason for posting was the voltage issue with my T1W. It was marked by Stax as a 100v only unit with no signs of an external switch. I was relived to see on the PCB that the primaries on the transformer were connected to something that looked a whole lot like the Stax voltage converter. Sneaky Stax had fitted it to the backside of the PCB as they did with the T1 so it wouldn't be clearly obvious. It is switchable to all of the voltages (100v,117v,220v,240v) so if you are buying a used Stax amp from that period and there is a black square with lots of wires going to it, odds are that is can handle all the voltages. 
 

Hmm would you mind taking a picture of it? I think my SRM-T1W is outfitted the same way. However the voltage issue aside, goody-japan hasn't received my amp from the seller yet, and it has been over a week since I won that auction already *worried*

 Here's an interesting amp on YJ: http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w13509406 Not quite a bargain deal but it still looks interesting...


----------



## spritzer

I'm sorry but I can't take a picture of it. The amp is crammed into the rack right now and my camera is on its way to Holland. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've waited more then 10 days for a JP seller to send a package so I wouldn't be too worried. When two weeks pass then I'd start to be a little worried. You can send me a picture of the amp, when you get it, and we'll take it from there. 

 That is an interesting amp if only for it uses the Illusion stax plug. Combining a Stax and a dynamic stage in the same amp isn't all that hard, just install an output transformer where the Stax output is and you are set.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have a normal SRD-7 you can turn it into a Mk2 if you are handy with a soldering iron._

 

Ah, Birgir, here we go again! You make this sound so easy, but I still don't know how to actually go about this: I can solder but can't read the circuit diagrams that've been posted here! (This idea looked it was actually going to take off a few pages back on this thread, but, as so often before, it died a death... )


----------



## Salt Peanuts

So I tried to search/read through the thread, but I wasn't able to find the info (most likely missed it even though it was right in front of me).

 For those of you who own 4070's, how long did it take for you to receive them after placing your order?

 Also, what is the US price for 4070's? I'm just wondering how much of a difference there is between the US price and importing from Japan, and if the difference is worth the possible warranty fun.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Salt Peanuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I tried to search/read through the thread, but I wasn't able to find the info (most likely missed it even though it was right in front of me).

 For those of you who own 4070's, how long did it take for you to receive them after placing your order?

 Also, what is the US price for 4070's? I'm just wondering how much of a difference there is between the US price and importing from Japan, and if the difference is worth the possible warranty fun._

 

I got it from www.pricejapan.com in less than a week - there must have been some stock at the time.

 By the way.. I wonder if Hedamp has any KGBH SE left, now that I've placed an order as well!


----------



## Salt Peanuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got it from www.pricejapan.com in less than a week - there must have been some stock at the time.

 By the way.. I wonder if Hedamp has any KGBH SE left, now that I've placed an order as well! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't want to speak for Justin, but most amp makers are not big (in production) enough to keep stock of their amps.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Salt Peanuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't want to speak for Justin, but most amp makers are not big (in production) enough to keep stock of their amps._

 

I was referring to the fact that it's a 'special edition', limited to 10 only. 

 It was a comment not really related to your question, but rather directed at the other thread participants... Sorry for the confusion!


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have a normal SRD-7 you can turn it into a Mk2 if you are handy with a soldering iron. 

 ...and no I'm not selling either one of my Mk2's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The MK2 is the pro bias - correct?

 Can a normal SRD-7 be converted to pro bias by swapping out the transformers?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, Birgir, here we go again! You make this sound so easy, but I still don't know how to actually go about this: I can solder but can't read the circuit diagrams that've been posted here! (This idea looked it was actually going to take off a few pages back on this thread, but, as so often before, it died a death... )_

 

It isn't very hard but you have to know what you are doing. It is live AC voltage we are dealing with and you can kill or injure your self and/or start a fire. The circuit diaphragms are pretty simple but you have to observe polarity of some components but it's easy to build a bias supply on a perf board. Then you only use the board for support and connect the component leads directly. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got it from www.pricejapan.com in less than a week - there must have been some stock at the time.

 By the way.. I wonder if Hedamp has any KGBH SE left, now that I've placed an order as well! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I know there was one KGBH SE left last night according to Justin. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The MK2 is the pro bias - correct?

 Can a normal SRD-7 be converted to pro bias by swapping out the transformers?_

 

The transformers are pretty much the same but it's the bias supply you have to replace.


----------



## cavis

Hello, I am new on this forum I am reading for several weeks.
 Having had for 20 years lots of headphones and amps, I wanted to try STAX.
 To begin with, I bought a pair of LAMBDA PRO with a SRM1/MK2, and a SRD7/MK2. First combination : very good, clear, dynamic sound (after SENNHEISER HD650 + EQUINOX cable).
 But second combination, with MODWRIGHT SWL 9.OSE preamp + CONRAD-JOHNSON MV60SE amp = NIRVANA !!!
 I thought I was in the dark quietness of my music room, but in reality, I WAS in the Berlin Philharmonie in 1978 to hear Herbert Von KARAJAN conducting VERDI'S Don Carlos (not particularly well engineered !).
 The voices of Mirella FRENI or Jose CARRERAS entered in my body an soul with their whole richness of tone. I had "chair de poule" as we say in FRANCE to describe this emotional mood.
 So, I have a question for you, eminently STAX specialists.
 A friend of mine goes to TOKYO in 2 weeks.
 Do I ask him to go back with an OMEGA 2 to replace my LAMBDAS ?
 Shall I enter in "OVER-NIRVANA" then ?


----------



## spritzer

Welcome to the forum! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambdas are very good but the Omegas are much better at everything. Their sound signature is very different as the Lambdas are a little bit forward and excessive bass bloom while the SR-007 is neutral and can be a little dark when mated with a sub par amp or if it is in a dark sounding system. They have the best bass of any headphone but it isn't overblown and always according to the recording. 

 The SR-007 isn't very expensive in Japan now and you could even find some used phones at an even better price. Be warned though that there is an updated version to be released soon, the SR-007 Mk2. We don't know exactly what the changes are but they should sound pretty much the same as Stax is mainly fixing some slight issues that have occurred over the originals 9 year life time. 

 I have almost every Lambda ever made and an upgrade to the SR-007 is a clear step forward so go for it!


----------



## dvse

Does anyone know where to source PRO (5-pin) headphone jacks? It seems that they used to be available a couple of years ago, but are no longer supplied by Stax. I know there are some substitutes out there but their quality is nowhere near as good (with the possible exception of those used in the Illusion transformers).

 I suppose I could try the Australian dealer, but I am somewhat reluctant after they quoted me USD$150 for a SR-001 replacement cable.


----------



## spritzer

Stax stopped selling them when the demand skyrocketed due to all of the third party amps so now we are all stuck with the WPI stuff. You could try and ask the makers of the Illusion if they are willing to sell the jack and Woo Audio also has their own version. 

 I wouldn't use the WPI stuff on any of my amps so I have bought quite a few SRD-4 adapters and removed the jacks. It's expensive and it's very easy to make a mistake and break the jack. Another option would be to find a SRD-7 Pro and remove the jacks and fit WPI unit instead and sell it again. Everybody isn't as crazy as we are...


----------



## luvdunhill

I talked with the guy that make the Illusion at length. They are not willing to sell the connectors separately (or perhaps, but only with the amp)...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I talked with the guy that make the Illusion at length. They are not willing to sell the connectors separately (or perhaps, but only with the amp)... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Hmmm you did make it clear to them that we would buy quite a few of them, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway I guess I have to buy an Illusion now...


----------



## cosmopragma

Does anybody know whether the SR-202 pads are a suitable replacement for worn out Lambda Pro pads or not?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody know whether the SR-202 pads are a suitable replacement for worn out Lambda Pro pads or not?_

 

They are the same (I've used them) except the new adhesive is actually worse. Damn eco crap...


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As Birgir, I think the SR-007 have nothing to worry about! They are clearly a step ahead of the Lambda series...

 That was my plan as well. To stick with my max range and just wait.
 But all this talk about the SR-Lambda gotten me even more interested in them..

 I had the same thoughts. But I now understand that a more powerful amplifier can put the SR-007 to "real" life.
 So now I am prepared to shell out hard cash for an after-market amplifier. I am still looking for that amplifier though..._

 

After many hours of listening and contemplation, I'm ready to dump my O2s. I do get a feel that they are not singing to their potential with my amps, but I'm just not willing to go on a multi-thousand dollar chase to try to get them to fly. They would need to be transormed into something very different to offer a satisfying sound, at least to my ears. 

 Wondering instead about the 4070 with my 007t. I love the original Lambda, and prefer it to the 404. Any advice from the Staxmen?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After many hours of listening and contemplation, I'm ready to dump my O2s. I do get a feel that they are not singing to their potential with my amps, but I'm just not willing to go on a multi-thousand dollar chase to try to get them to fly. They would need to be transormed into something very different to offer a satisfying sound, at least to my ears. 

 Wondering instead about the 4070 with my 007t. I love the original Lambda, and prefer it to the 404. Any advice from the Staxmen?_

 

How does original Lambda compares to 404. I was thinking to get 404 and want to know how would it sound out SRM-1/MK-2.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does original Lambda compares to 404. I was thinking to get 404 and want to know how would it sound out SRM-1/MK-2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hard to describe, the Lambda is perhaps less spectacular but has a more natural sound to it, a little bit more like real live music, at least to me. I have not owned the 404, but I've spent some time with them on several occations during our local meets here. I do like the 404 pretty well, and especially out of the 007t amp. Check out our stash at last month's meet here at my house. Both old and new Stax were represented.






[/IMG]


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't use the WPI stuff on any of my amps so I have bought quite a few SRD-4 adapters and removed the jacks. It's expensive and it's very easy to make a mistake and break the jack. Another option would be to find a SRD-7 Pro and remove the jacks and fit WPI unit instead and sell it again. Everybody isn't as crazy as we are... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I talked with the guy that make the Illusion at length. They are not willing to sell the connectors separately (or perhaps, but only with the amp)... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks! Indeed the situation does not sound very promising... I guess I will try the local distributor, saying that I need a socket for repairs and then Illusion with an offer that might make it worth their while...


----------



## Faust2D

that's a lot of headphones....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What Stax headphones surprised you, in a good or bad way?


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that's a lot of headphones....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What Stax headphones surprised you, in a good or bad way?_

 


 Everyone at our last meet was taken back by how bright my old SRX-MKIIIs were. The Omega 2s were a bit of a curiosity. I had just gotten them, and I guess it surprised me that they weren't the "belle of the ball". (now I know why) The 404 is always nice to listen to - almost bought some a few weeks ago. I did not have the Lambdas yet at the meet, so the guys didn't get a chance to hear them. We have always liked the old SR-5 really well. There were 2 of them there, mine and Lazarus Short's. 

 As I type this, I'm listening on my SR-5 with the 007t amp to a spectacular film score broadcast on Kansas Publuc radio - simply wonderful. Both the Lambdas and SR-5 also sound great out of a SRD-6 adaptor powered by a Fisher tube amp.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After many hours of listening and contemplation, I'm ready to dump my O2s. I do get a feel that they are not singing to their potential with my amps, but I'm just not willing to go on a multi-thousand dollar chase to try to get them to fly. They would need to be transormed into something very different to offer a satisfying sound, at least to my ears. 

 Wondering instead about the 4070 with my 007t. I love the original Lambda, and prefer it to the 404. Any advice from the Staxmen?_

 

I'm not sure how helpful this is, but these are my personal preferences:

 Using SRM-717:

 1.) SR-007, HE60
 2.) 4070
 3.) Lambda Signature

 Using KGSS:

 1.) SR-007
 ...
 2.) HE60, Lambda Signature
 3.) 4070


 Generally, out of SRM-717, HE60 sound very good, but Omegas are quite dark and polite - you seem to be missing detail (it's still there but recessed) and the bass is not very well controlled. Lambda Signature has quite a similar sound to the HE60 overall, but I find highs too etched - it can be very grating on many recordings. I would rather listen to the 4070 which is more balanced and only suffers a little from being closed.

 Now with KGSS, Omegas pull ahead with amazing imaging, detail and bass (while still forgiving of poor treble content), and HE60 and Lambda Signature begin to sound very similar, indeed maybe Lambda is even better - the mids are much fuller than with SRM-717 and there is no longer such a perceived peak in the highs. In my experience 4070 benefit the least from the amp upgrade.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure how helpful this is, but these are my personal preferences:

 Using SRM-717:

 1.) SR-007, HE60
 2.) 4070
 3.) Lambda Signature

 Using KGSS:

 1.) SR-007
 ...
 2.) HE60, Lambda Signature
 3.) 4070


 Generally, out of SRM-717, HE60 sound very good, but Omegas are quite dark and polite - you seem to be missing detail (it's still there but recessed) and the bass is not very well controlled. Lambda Signature has quite a similar sound to the HE60 overall, but I find highs too etched - it can be very grating on many recordings. I would rather listen to the 4070 which is more balanced and only suffers a little from being closed.

 Now with KGSS, Omegas pull ahead with amazing imaging, detail and bass (while still forgiving of poor treble content), and HE60 and Lambda Signature begin to sound very similar, indeed maybe Lambda is even better - the mids are much fuller than with SRM-717 and there is no longer such a perceived peak in the highs. In my experience 4070 benefit the least from the amp upgrade._

 


 Thanks for that. I listen to a lot of orchestral music, and the violins sound like they have soap on their bows with the 007. I'm having doubts that any amp will make them sound right to my ears, and so I'm pretty much convinced that the O2s aren't for me. I just don't like them very much. They are already packed up in their case ready to find a new home - will list them in a week or so after my biz trip. 

 I've read many of the posts about the 4070. Do you have any other thoughts about them, other than the above?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that. I listen to a lot of orchestral music, and the violins sound like they have soap on their bows with the 007. I'm having doubts that any amp will make them sound right to my ears, and so I'm pretty much convinced that the O2s aren't for me. I just don't like them very much. They are already packed up in their case ready to find a new home - will list them in a week or so after my biz trip. 

 I've read many of the posts about the 4070. Do you have any thoughts about them, other than the above rankings?_

 


 I know what you mean about the violins! But then again, I think that violins can be far too shrill if you are sitting close to the stage ; )

 Given your tastes, you would probably enjoy HE60 a lot, also it's a great match with your amp. Lambda Signature is not bad either. In my opinion both are quite a bit better than SR-404 which can sound somewhat strange with strings esp. solo cello etc.

 4070 doesn't really bring much new to the table - they sound more natural compared to the SR-404 (the latter probably let down by the enclosure) but also suffer in imaging due to being closed. Also they're not nearly as comfortable as Lambdas/Omegas which for me is a big factor for the primary headphones! Definitely worth it if you need isolation, otherwise I would look at other options.

 Now the above is from my experience with the 4070 and there are a few people on these forums who will no doubt disagree. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some think they are better than any of the Lambdas, even the older models.

 You may have to wait until spritzer gets his pair for a more comprehensive evaluation


----------



## billinkansas

Thanks for your thougts on this. HE60 eh? Haven't considered those before.

 I'd sure like to hear the 4070, although I like the Lambdas enough right now to make them my primary cans. 

 The big winner here might be my wallet - for a change.


----------



## AudioCats

Do anybody have the pin-out schematic of the ESP950 plug? 
 Or do I have to take the phones apart to figure it out with a multimeter?

 thanks



 .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wondering instead about the 4070 with my 007t. I love the original Lambda, and prefer it to the 404. Any advice from the Staxmen?_

 

The 4070 is about as power hungry as the Sigma Pro's and just little bit less then the SR-007, according to Carl, so I don't think the 007t would be a good match. It's very good at driving the Lambdas but they all benefit from having more power to play with. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does original Lambda compares to 404. I was thinking to get 404 and want to know how would it sound out SRM-1/MK-2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The 404 drivers are very good but the housing isn't doing it any favors also comparing them isn't so straight forward due to the damping material in the SR-Lambda so they sound very different. The Sr-Lambda is less open and extended but it doesn't reveal as many flaws and it has a much more "mellow" sound signature. The bass "thump" is better due to the thicker membrane. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! Indeed the situation does not sound very promising... I guess I will try the local distributor, saying that I need a socket for repairs and then Illusion with an offer that might make it worth their while..._

 

The Stax jacks are very prone to breaking/chipping so it's likely they'll sell a plug. I'd love the Illusion plugs though as they go very well with silver amps. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know what you mean about the violins! But then again, I think that violins can be far too shrill if you are sitting close to the stage ; )

 Given your tastes, you would probably enjoy HE60 a lot, also it's a great match with your amp. Lambda Signature is not bad either. In my opinion both are quite a bit better than SR-404 which can sound somewhat strange with strings esp. solo cello etc.

 4070 doesn't really bring much new to the table - they sound more natural compared to the SR-404 (the latter probably let down by the enclosure) but also suffer in imaging due to being closed. Also they're not nearly as comfortable as Lambdas/Omegas which for me is a big factor for the primary headphones! Definitely worth it if you need isolation, otherwise I would look at other options.

 Now the above is from my experience with the 4070 and there are a few people on these forums who will no doubt disagree. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some think they are better than any of the Lambdas, even the older models.

 You may have to wait until spritzer gets his pair for a more comprehensive evaluation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree that the Signature is a better phone then the He60 but it needs a big amp to shine. The midrange on the He60 is just odd at times making vocals sound artificial. 

 I'll post a thorough evaluation of the 4070 when it gets here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do anybody have the pin-out schematic of the ESP950 plug? 
 Or do I have to take the phones apart to figure it out with a multimeter?_

 

I can't find it now but I'll look some more. It could also be in some of the Gilmore amp articles on Headwize.


----------



## Elephas

I like the 4070 very much, but prefer the O2. The 4070 seems colder and less "musical" than the O2. Listening to the 4070 is an activity that is reminiscent of the words printed on their sides, "Monitor." I feel somewhat emotionally detached, like I'm at some kind of studio listening to a "feed."

 The 4070's details and clarity are very good, and there's plenty of bass quantity. Overall, it doesn't have the combination of details + smoothness and refinement of the O2.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 is about as power hungry as the Sigma Pro's and just little bit less then the SR-007, according to Carl, so I don't think the 007t would be a good match. It's very good at driving the Lambdas but they all benefit from having more power to play with. ... I'll post a thorough evaluation of the 4070 when it gets here ..._

 


 Thanks Spritzer & Elephas.

 I'd also like to hear some pro Sigs sometime as well. 

 I had the Nova Sigs / T1 for a while and found them a bit recessed, rather like a nice warm bath. They sort of suggested the sound of the O2 without much bass and less detail.

 I might hang onto my 007t for possible service with another phone, but I'm 95% sure that my O2s are on their way out.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do anybody have the pin-out schematic of the ESP950 plug? 
 Or do I have to take the phones apart to figure it out with a multimeter?

 thanks._

 

PM me with your email address and I will send you the pin-out for the ESP-950.
 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PM me with your email address and I will send you the pin-out for the ESP-950.
 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I believe it is also hiding in the thread somewhere. Come out, come out, where ever you are...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I listen to a lot of orchestral music, and the violins sound like they have soap on their bows with the 007._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_highs too etched - it can be very grating on many recordings._

 

I find that when people say highs are etched, that's what I like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, dvse, which cans are etched? Certainly not the He60.

 I'm afraid that the SR-007 will be a bit "soapy" myself ... I don't really care about the "darkness" people allude to, as this in my past experience is just poor system synergy and can be fixed.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find that when people say highs are etched, that's what I like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, dvse, which cans are etched? Certainly not the He60.

 I'm afraid that the SR-007 will be a bit "soapy" myself ... I don't really care about the "darkness" people allude to, as this in my past experience is just poor system synergy and can be fixed._

 

All of the Lambdas have this etch to them, but the Signature is worst off but only on a T1 or similar amp. The He60 and indeed the He90 have their own kind of a HF coloration.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the 4070 very much, but prefer the O2. The 4070 seems colder and less "musical" than the O2. Listening to the 4070 is an activity that is reminiscent of the words printed on their sides, "Monitor." I feel somewhat emotionally detached, like I'm at some kind of studio listening to a "feed."

 The 4070's details and clarity are very good, and there's plenty of bass quantity. Overall, it doesn't have the combination of details + smoothness and refinement of the O2._

 

That covers my thoughts almost exactly. I do think the 4070 manages to be quite emotionally convincing in certain situations such as with strings and Jazz, but for rock and classical in general it doesn't quite reach the level of the O2s. For me the 4070s managed electroclash slightly better than the O2s even but it was close.


----------



## Faust2D

I am trying to see if it will make sense for me to get one of the new Stax headphones. My options are basically limited to STAX SR-303 or SR-404. I will be driving them with SRD-1/MK-2. 

 What difference, if any will I hear between STAX SR-303 and 404, also will these headphones be an upgrade from my SR-Lambda for rock and jazz? 

 My understanding is that I Lambda Pro will not be an upgrade for me because of the HF coloration and midrange dip. I am basically looking for soundstage improvements and maybe a little more bass with that last level of details even more detectable.


----------



## spritzer

A quick note for all of the SR-Ω owners out there. I just got a set of replacement earpads and a replacement cable from Stax through Eifl so the parts are still available. The bad news are that the earpads are black and the cable is of the current brown color. It's a minor issue for me since fresh pads are a definitive improvement but somebody else might feel different. I really don't know why Stax had black pads made when all the phones were shipped with brown pads. 

 I just got the final puzzle of my Lambda collection, a brand spanking new 404 so my collection is complete except for the two Basic and Classic models. I don't plan on getting them but I might break down later on... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am trying to see if it will make sense for me to get one of the new Stax headphones. My options are basically limited to STAX SR-303 or SR-404. I will be driving them with SRD-1/MK-2. 

 What difference, if any will I hear between STAX SR-303 and 404, also will these headphones be an upgrade from my SR-Lambda for rock and jazz? 

 My understanding is that I Lambda Pro will not be an upgrade for me because of the HF coloration and midrange dip. I am basically looking for soundstage improvements and maybe a little more bass with that last level of details even more detectable._

 

The 404 uses the same driver as the 303 but it uses the Wide PC-OCC cable. The wide cable is definitely better but I don't think it's worth the extra price. 

 The newer Lambdas will give you a more spacious soundstage and deeper bass but not as hard hitting. The drivers are much better made so the limitations of the housing are more apparent.


----------



## Faust2D

So basically I will be hard pressed to hear a difference between 303 and 404 out of SRM-1. Great news, this will save me some money if I decide to get 303. Now the question is how different SR-Lambda and 303 will be to my ears.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So basically I will be hard pressed to hear a difference between 303 and 404 out of SRM-1. Great news, this will save me some money if I decide to get 303. Now the question is how different SR-Lambda and 303 will be to my ears. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You should hear the difference but I would either take the 303 or step up the the SR-SC1. It's much more expensive but the extra smoothness and coherence is worth it.


----------



## Faust2D

SR-SC1 is this cryogenic treated Lambda thing? Oy vay. I am not sure I will go for it. 303 seems like a sweet spot for me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-SC1 is this cryogenic treated Lambda thing? Oy vay. I am not sure I will go for it. 303 seems like a sweet spot for me._

 

The 303 is the sweet spot price wise with the SR-SC1 being the top of the range by quite a large margin. Depending on how the 4070 will sound to me I might swap out the drivers for a SC-1 ones or send the assembly for cryo treatment. It's that good...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 303 is the sweet spot price wise with the SR-SC1 being the top of the range by quite a large margin. Depending on how the 4070 will sound to me I might swap out the drivers for a SC-1 ones or send the assembly for cryo treatment. It's that good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What exactly is being cryo'd and who is doing it?


----------



## Faust2D

He wants to freeze his all of his Stax I tell you, it's evil


----------



## AudioCats

I supposed in Iceland all you have to do is put your phones in a water-proof box, dig a hole on the mountain top and bury the box for the whole winter, then the phones will be cryo'ed, eh? 

 Who needs liquid nitrogen and computer temp control anyway....


----------



## feckn_eejit

Is it bad that sometimes I really can't imagine how things could sound better than my SR-404 system?


----------



## krmathis

I posted an inquiry at Ishino Lab's website about their Master BA-215TM/STAX a week ago.






 ..and here are the answers I received:
*Q* - Is it available with voltage suitable for the European and US marked (meaning 230 and 110 volts)?
*A* - Sorry We cannot make 110v or 230v power transformer.

*Q* - Are you taking direct orders from these countries, or do we have to go through a dealer?
*A* - Sorry We are domestic only.

*Q* - Do you know of any review of this amplifier?
*A* - Please see audio magazine "audio accessary" No,124 in Japan.

 The lack of a 230v version put me off. But hopefully someone else is willing to take on for the team...


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I posted an inquiry at Ishino Lab's website about their Master BA-215TM/STAX a week ago.






 ..and here are the answers I received:
*Q* - Is it available with voltage suitable for the European and US marked (meaning 230 and 110 volts)?
*A* - Sorry We cannot make 110v or 230v power transformer.

*Q* - Are you taking direct orders from these countries, or do we have to go through a dealer?
*A* - Sorry We are domestic only.

*Q* - Do you know of any review of this amplifier?
*A* - Please see audio magazine "audio accessary" No,124 in Japan.

 The lack of a 230v version put me off. But hopefully someone else is willing to take on for the team... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No 110 ?? Well I guess i'm out.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I WAS planning on taking one for the team in about 4 months from now. I'm assuming its 100V ??


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What exactly is being cryo'd and who is doing it?_

 

The drivers and cable assembly is cryo'd and I know a few people that are willing to do it for me. Rearranging the crystal structure is almost always a good idea. It's basically the same idea as OCC cables and age annealed wire. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it bad that sometimes I really can't imagine how things could sound better than my SR-404 system?_

 

I hate to tell you this but they can. Try the SR-SC1 since you like the 404. It's much smoother and not as peaky. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I posted an inquiry at Ishino Lab's website about their Master BA-215TM/STAX a week ago.

http://www.ishinolab.com/modules/doc...5tm_stax_1.jpg

 ..and here are the answers I received:
*Q* - Is it available with voltage suitable for the European and US marked (meaning 230 and 110 volts)?
*A* - Sorry We cannot make 110v or 230v power transformer.

*Q* - Are you taking direct orders from these countries, or do we have to go through a dealer?
*A* - Sorry We are domestic only.

*Q* - Do you know of any review of this amplifier?
*A* - Please see audio magazine "audio accessary" No,124 in Japan.

 The lack of a 230v version put me off. But hopefully someone else is willing to take on for the team... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's a shame really. I do have something to lift you up though as I was bored yesterday and started to look for a cheap DHT based push pull integrated and found one for roughly 800$. It could use a quad of 45's and the conversion over to Stax should be easy with only a few resistors and caps. I'll try to find the schematic when I have some extra time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I supposed in Iceland all you have to do is put your phones in a water-proof box, dig a hole on the mountain top and bury the box for the whole winter, then the phones will be cryo'ed, eh? 

 Who needs liquid nitrogen and computer temp control anyway.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not that cold here in the winter even up in the highlands. -30°C is about as low as it goes but it's much easier to access massive sources of heat. All these hot springs would be a good start and new powerplants use superheated steam.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No 110 ?? Well I guess i'm out.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I WAS planning on taking one for the team in about 4 months from now. I'm assuming its 100V ??_

 

Sad, but true!
 Using a stepdown converter from 110 to 100 volts should not make much difference. But 230 to 100 volts, in my case, is a different matter.

 Its made in Japan, so its safe to assume it takes 100volts input. At least not 110 or 230 volts


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it bad that sometimes I really can't imagine how things could sound better than my SR-404 system?_

 

No, it's actually quite good. It means that you've found headphones that you're comfortable with, and aren't looking for ways to improve the sound. If only I were in the same boat!

 At the moment, my K340 system thoroughly demolishes my SR-404 system sonically (except for the bass, strangely enough! The SR-404 is capable of some seriously good bass, though you're not going to get it with a Stax-brand amp). However, the K340's comfort is borderline unusable. I pretty much have to hold the earcups in place to get the right seal/fit. So, I'm left with waiting for the H2; if it can sound better than the K340 and be as comfortable as the SR-404, I'll be happy.

 Why does Stax not redesign that ancient housing? It's seriously not doing the (excellent) drivers any favors!

 After I heard the HE90, I couldn't listen to the SR-404 for days


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After I heard the HE90, I couldn't listen to the SR-404 for days 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The novelty of the He90 wears off after about two weeks and while they are much better, the SC-1 brings the Lambdas quite a ways forward. I think a shootout is in the works...


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The novelty of the He90 wears off after about two weeks and while they are much better, the SC-1 brings the Lambdas quite a ways forward. I think a shootout is in the works... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It hasn't worn off for me. I still remember the system as if I heard it yesterday. If I had the money for it, I'd go for it and not look back. I honestly can't say that I agree with your evaluations of it, though I have nowhere near your experience.

 But! I am specifically referring to the HE90/HEV90 combo. I also heard the HE90 with the (then prototype) ES-1, and while the sound was technically similar, the magic was gone. There is an astonishing synergy going on with this pairing, even if it isn't technically the most advanced.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It hasn't worn off for me. I still remember the system as if I heard it yesterday. If I had the money for it, I'd go for it and not look back. I honestly can't say that I agree with your evaluations of it, though I have nowhere near your experience.

 But! I am specifically referring to the HE90/HEV90 combo. I also heard the HE90 with the (then prototype) ES-1, and while the sound was technically similar, the magic was gone. There is an astonishing synergy going on with this pairing, even if it isn't technically the most advanced._

 

I could never live with the HEV90 in stock form. It takes a good headphone down a couple of notches just by bad engineering and parts quality. The sound is so diffused and it seemed like I was listening to a blob of sound with very few spatial cues. I believe the HEV90 has some promise in the Aristaeus form and I'm going to buy or build one and upgrade it. 

 The reason for the synergy is the HE90's need for an amp that doesn't lay it all bare, an amp that help with the main issues so the end results are pretty good. The Stax sound it the other way around, requiring you to strip away every veil you can find and rewarding every time. The He60 is similar but it is in some ways a better headphone, less diffused, the bass isn't as extended so you don't notice the flaws and if it weren't for the small midrange tunnel effect and the slight tendency towards sibilance I would prefer them to they're big brother.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 The drivers and cable assembly is cryo'd and I know a few people that are willing to do it for me. Rearranging the crystal structure is almost always a good idea. It's basically the same idea as OCC cables and age annealed wire. 
 

Hmm... Unless Airbow doesn't mind divulging the exact cryo procedure they use, I don't think there's any way to tell what kind of result you'll get.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm... Unless Airbow doesn't mind divulging the exact cryo procedure they use, I don't think there's any way to tell what kind of result you'll get._

 

The cryo process doesn't really matter as it is the end temperature that really matters. They go slowly down and slowly up in temperature as to not to stress the materials too much but the end result is always the same. I know that Airbow cryo's twice so that might be worth a shot.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 At the moment, my K340 system thoroughly demolishes my SR-404 system sonically (except for the bass, strangely enough! The SR-404 is capable of some seriously good bass, though you're not going to get it with a Stax-brand amp). However, the K340's comfort is borderline unusable. I pretty much have to hold the earcups in place to get the right seal/fit. So, I'm left with waiting for the H2; if it can sound better than the K340 and be as comfortable as the SR-404, I'll be happy.

 Why does Stax not redesign that ancient housing? It's seriously not doing the (excellent) drivers any favors!_

 

I sold my bass heavy K340 after extensive comparisons to SR-Lambda and MB QP85. I like K340 a lot, but it has a few very annoying things about it's sound. It sounds slightly muddy and boomy in the mid bass and midrange is pushed forward. The final thing that put me off were strange echo and resonance things happening on some records. It sounded very very good with rock and electronic music. I listed to some Zappa recently and it sounded better than SR-Lambda, more involving and guitar was just incredibly rich and dynamic. The soundstage was also smallish and bass resolution was pretty bad, although it had a lot of impact. SR-Lambda somewhat sounded thin and brittle in direct comparison, but so much more resolving still. 

 I think I will still need a pair of headphones for rock similar to my bass heavy K340. But I need to find a pair without the resonance issues.


----------



## spritzer

You could always open up the SR-Lambda and remove the damping material. It does change the sound quite a bit. The other way would be a SR-303. C'mon you know you want it...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do anybody have the pin-out schematic of the ESP950 plug? 
 Or do I have to take the phones apart to figure it out with a multimeter?

 thanks
 ._

 

here's what I've come up with:

 yellow = left -
 green = right -
 orange x 2 = bias
 red = right +
 white = left +

 assuming of course that the cable is wired to the driver using this pattern 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I double checked with mine and then verified that the extension cable is coded this way as well. I'd recommend just hooking both bias cables up, although this isn't strictly needed if you're making an adapter cable from the extension cable.

 I have a few extra extension cables and male WPI jacks if anyone is interested, just PM me.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could always open up the SR-Lambda and remove the damping material. It does change the sound quite a bit. The other way would be a SR-303. C'mon you know you want it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I want to try 404 or 303, but I want to get it for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is a fair price to offer for a used one?


----------



## spritzer

2/3 of the retail price is the norm so lets say about 300$ or less


----------



## Faust2D

Interesting..303 is about $310 new shipped on PriceJapan. If I can find one on the forums for ~$250. I might go for it


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a package with a few goodies, SRM-T1W, SRD-7, SRD-7 Mk2, SR-X Mk2, SR-5NB, a dinky plastic box marked Stax that was bundled with the SR-5 and an Airbow SR-SC1. I'm a real happy puppy this evening... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah, nice!
 So you finally got a hold of an Airbow SR-SC1. I am envious... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Salt Peanuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those of you who own 4070's, how long did it take for you to receive them after placing your order?_

 

12 days, if I remember correctly.
 I was surprised that they arrived that fast, since PriceJapan state "2-3 weeks needed till shipping" on their website. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way.. I wonder if Hedamp has any KGBH SE left, now that I've placed an order as well! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I sure hope there are KGBH SE's available when he release it. Cause I _might_ want to buy one. Just holding off to see the end product...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The MK2 is the pro bias - correct?

 Can a normal SRD-7 be converted to pro bias by swapping out the transformers?_

 

The MK2 is both Pro and Normal bias.
 ..and afaik the transformers are not related to the bias supply voltage. So no need to swap them out.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cavis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello, I am new on this forum I am reading for several weeks.
 Having had for 20 years lots of headphones and amps, I wanted to try STAX.
 To begin with, I bought a pair of LAMBDA PRO with a SRM1/MK2, and a SRD7/MK2. First combination : very good, clear, dynamic sound (after SENNHEISER HD650 + EQUINOX cable).
 But second combination, with MODWRIGHT SWL 9.OSE preamp + CONRAD-JOHNSON MV60SE amp = NIRVANA !!!
 I thought I was in the dark quietness of my music room, but in reality, I WAS in the Berlin Philharmonie in 1978 to hear Herbert Von KARAJAN conducting VERDI'S Don Carlos (not particularly well engineered !).
 The voices of Mirella FRENI or Jose CARRERAS entered in my body an soul with their whole richness of tone. I had "chair de poule" as we say in FRANCE to describe this emotional mood.
 So, I have a question for you, eminently STAX specialists.
 A friend of mine goes to TOKYO in 2 weeks.
 Do I ask him to go back with an OMEGA 2 to replace my LAMBDAS ?
 Shall I enter in "OVER-NIRVANA" then ?_

 

Welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If you have the funds then I clearly advise you to get the Omega II. Its a very noticeable improvement over the Lambda Pro.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm you did make it clear to them that we would buy quite a few of them, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway I guess I have to buy an Illusion now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He he
 You are not the only one looking into them...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody know whether the SR-202 pads are a suitable replacement for worn out Lambda Pro pads or not?_

 

They will fit perfectly.
 They are the same size and colour as the Lambda Pro ones. I use SR-202 pads on my Lambda Pro's.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll post a thorough evaluation of the 4070 when it gets here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Can't wait to hear what you think of them.
 They should be at your place any day now, right?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got the final puzzle of my Lambda collection, a brand spanking new 404 so my collection is complete except for the two Basic and Classic models. I don't plan on getting them but I might break down later on... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hats off to you!
 You sure have spent lots of time and money into your collection, and might have one of the most complete electrostatic headphone collections out there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depending on how the 4070 will sound to me I might swap out the drivers for a SC-1 ones or send the assembly for cryo treatment. It's that good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That would make up a 'nice' project! A fully cryo treated 4070 that is...
 Do you possibly know a company who could perform cryo treatment on various audio gear?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a shame really. I do have something to lift you up though as I was bored yesterday and started to look for a cheap DHT based push pull integrated and found one for roughly 800$. It could use a quad of 45's and the conversion over to Stax should be easy with only a few resistors and caps. I'll try to find the schematic when I have some extra time._

 

Yes, its a shame.
 But I don't blame them, since they obviously target the Japanese market only.

 Modifying an integrated DHT amplifier could be one way to go. But I would need pin-pint instructions on how to modify it. Or someone else to perform the steps...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to try 404 or 303, but I want to get it for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is a fair price to offer for a used one?_

 

A bit (~25-30%) lower than what they can be had from Japan seems like a fair price. Meaning:
 SR-303 = around $250
 SR-404 = around $300



 Sorry for the long post. But I have been more or less offline the last 5 days, and have to catch up...


----------



## spritzer

Wow long post... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, nice!
 So you finally got a hold of an Airbow SR-SC1. I am envious... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can stop being envious by buying them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I sure hope there are KGBH SE's available when he release it. Cause I might want to buy one. Just holding off to see the end product..._

 

It looks like you could be out of luck as the last I heard only one was left. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't wait to hear what you think of them.
 They should be at your place any day now, right?_

 

Tonight I hope. I'm never gonna have DHL deliver anything again as they are slower the the post office i.e. people that work for the state. I should also get my Sony DAS-R1 tonight as they managed to loose it yesterday... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hats off to you!
 You sure have spent lots of time and money into your collection, and might have one of the most complete electrostatic headphone collections out there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A bit of money has gone into this, yes, but it's all worth it... I hope... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would make up a 'nice' project! A fully cryo treated 4070 that is...
 Do you possibly know a company who could perform cryo treatment on various audio gear?_

 

Some of the cable companies do it but I "know a guy". I'm not sure I want to do it though as it will depend on how I like the 4070. It could be too mellow after cryo treatment. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, its a shame.
 But I don't blame them, since they obviously target the Japanese market only._

 

They also have warranty issues and other problem that they don't want to deal with. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Modifying an integrated DHT amplifier could be one way to go. But I would need pin-pint instructions on how to modify it. Or someone else to perform the steps..._

 

The one I saw was called "Joplin" and has a 3 tube input stage and a DHT based output stage that can take 2a3's, 45's and 300b's. It isn't a good amp by any means but it costs 600$+shipping complete and it's easy to upgrade it with better wire, connectors and caps. You can have it ready built with the upgrades but I don't know if they'll add the Stax output...

 If we connect a capacitor to the output of each tube (before the primary) and create a reference to ground with a few resistors between each pair of tubes we have a Stax amp. All we need to do is to turn off the output transformers when the phones are in use.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Removing the dampening material in the SR-Lambda opens it up? How do I do this? Just pop it open and dig it out? lol 

 I really don't want to mess it up so lmk if this is at all dangerous b/c I am prone to destruction.

 I am looking for ways to improve the sound. I have an Oritek Zhalou coming in the next few weeks and was considering getting one of his coax cables too.


----------



## Duggeh

Not tempted to Cryo the Omega 2 then Spritzer?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Removing the dampening material in the SR-Lambda opens it up? How do I do this? Just pop it open and dig it out? lol 

 I really don't want to mess it up so lmk if this is at all dangerous b/c I am prone to destruction.

 I am looking for ways to improve the sound. I have an Oritek Zhalou coming in the next few weeks and was considering getting one of his coax cables too._

 

I am not opening my up, no way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like them the way that they are. I am thinking about getting 303 or 404. They, I think, don't have this "dampening material" so would sound somewhat different.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not tempted to Cryo the Omega 2 then Spritzer?_

 

What if I just stick my Lambdas in a freezer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not exactly cryo, but it should relax them, no?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not tempted to Cryo the Omega 2 then Spritzer?_

 

I've thought about it. If I buy a used BL model I might do it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Removing the dampening material in the SR-Lambda opens it up? How do I do this? Just pop it open and dig it out? lol 

 I really don't want to mess it up so lmk if this is at all dangerous b/c I am prone to destruction.

 I am looking for ways to improve the sound. I have an Oritek Zhalou coming in the next few weeks and was considering getting one of his coax cables too._

 

You will probably break one of the wires leading to the elements and the foam on the inside of the cup will disintegrate when you touch it.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Lol that would be a never mind. I will just save up for Omega 2 then.


----------



## spritzer

Woot!! Just got the 4070. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Man they are heavy and big but still smaller then a Sigma. Now on to some listening...


----------



## no1likesme

I am really regretting buying my lambdas. For the last few days I have been looking at all of my stuff trying to figure out what I could sell to get an OII...


----------



## Elephas

I think the Lambda Pro sounds pretty good, but it's not better than the Airbow SR-SC1 or 4070, and definitely not as refined as the O2.

 Damn, can't say I have a Stax headphone spritzer doesn't have anymore.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Lambda Pro sounds pretty good, but it's not better than the Airbow SR-SC1 or 4070, and definitely not as refined as the O2._

 

I don't like the Pro's at all. The bass is uneven and the recessed midrange is very annoying. The SC1 is a much better headphone and my first impressions of the 4070 are pretty good. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, can't say I have a Stax headphone spritzer doesn't have anymore._

 

LOL...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow long post... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

He he

  Quote:


 You can stop being envious by buying them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Sure! But at $600 (or something) I don't think so...

  Quote:


 It looks like you could be out of luck as the last I heard only one was left. 
 

Just what I was afraid of.
 Thats the problem with limited edition amplifier, like the KGBH SE and Aristaeus. They are sold out before they even are released... 
 Potential customer don't even have the time to see the end product before its too late. A shame really! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Some of the cable companies do it but I "know a guy". 
 

Thanks! Reminds me that RSAD (our fellow IC manufacturer) perform cryo treatment on their cables, and they might be helpful if its turns out that its a worthy modification.

  Quote:


 They also have warranty issues and other problem that they don't want to deal with. 
 

That too...

  Quote:


 The one I saw was called "Joplin" and has a 3 tube input stage and a DHT based output stage that can take 2a3's, 45's and 300b's. It isn't a good amp by any means but it costs 600$+shipping complete and it's easy to upgrade it with better wire, connectors and caps. You can have it ready built with the upgrades but I don't know if they'll add the Stax output...

 If we connect a capacitor to the output of each tube (before the primary) and create a reference to ground with a few resistors between each pair of tubes we have a Stax amp. All we need to do is to turn off the output transformers when the phones are in use. 
 

I'll Google "Joplin" and see what I find.
 "Anything" is worth looking into these days, as I am desperate in need of a more suitable amplifier than the 007t.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Removing the dampening material in the SR-Lambda opens it up? How do I do this? Just pop it open and dig it out? lol 

 I really don't want to mess it up so lmk if this is at all dangerous b/c I am prone to destruction._

 

In each of the four corners, underneath the earpads, you find a small screw. Unscrew and separate the front plate from the housing, then remove the damping material. Then mount the front panel again.

 I have one Lambda Pro with damping and one without damping. They sound a bit different, but I have spend too little time comparing them to pinpoint exactly what's different.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woot!! Just got the 4070. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Man they are heavy and big but still smaller then a Sigma. Now on to some listening... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really regretting buying my lambdas. For the last few days I have been looking at all of my stuff trying to figure out what I could sell to get an OII..._

 

So upgradeitis have bit you as well..? he he


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This one is the right diameter. _

 

I'm sorry to say, that is NOT the right diameter for the WPI stax-style plugs. It's more appropriate for a mains power plug, just like the other WPI hoods in that section.


----------



## Faust2D

Do you know what the right part is? I was looking for this cover plug as well.


----------



## ericj

I suspect that it does not exist. I couldn't find anything that looked appropriate in WPI's catalog.

 Edit: I suppose that one of us could actually call WPI and ask them what the big idea is. I suspect that the answer will be something like "Well when we bought the tooling from Amphenol, the mold wasn't there."


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't like the Pro's at all. The bass is uneven and the recessed midrange is very annoying. The SC1 is a much better headphone and my first impressions of the 4070 are pretty good._

 

Yes, with the different housing those drivers sound very different. Unless I'm mistaken too the SC1 is looking very much like a FOTM currently.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suspect that it does not exist. I couldn't find anything that looked appropriate in WPI's catalog.

 Edit: I suppose that one of us could actually call WPI and ask them what the big idea is. I suspect that the answer will be something like "Well when we bought the tooling from Amphenol, the mold wasn't there."_

 

What can be used as a cover? I want something protecting the wires with lots of volts running through them..


----------



## luvdunhill

I'd use some nice 600v shrink. On my Koss converter, I don't think it's really nescessary, perhaps for aesthetics ... we'll see. 

 What are you doing exactly? I have some spare teflon-coated 6-conductor wire from a Koss extension cable if you're interested.


----------



## Faust2D

I am planing to get parts to have a koss to Stax adapter made. I want to get Koss extension cord and Stax plug. Ed was kind enough to give me a pin out.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure! But at $600 (or something) I don't think so..._

 

Just buy it used if you can find it. 650$ for the SC1 and a T1W... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just what I was afraid of.
 Thats the problem with limited edition amplifier, like the KGBH SE and Aristaeus. They are sold out before they even are released... 
 Potential customer don't even have the time to see the end product before its too late. A shame really! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's still a smart move for Justin as he's not going to sell a whole lot more then this. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! Reminds me that RSAD (our fellow IC manufacturer) perform cryo treatment on their cables, and they might be helpful if its turns out that its a worthy modification._

 

I'm sure thy would be willing to do it but I think the 4070 is out. It doesn't need to be more mellow but I'm game for a SR-007. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll Google "Joplin" and see what I find.
 "Anything" is worth looking into these days, as I am desperate in need of a more suitable amplifier than the 007t._

 

Google of all things isn't working for me right now as there is something wrong with my connection but I'll post a link as soon as I can. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry to say, that is NOT the right diameter for the WPI stax-style plugs. It's more appropriate for a mains power plug, just like the other WPI hoods in that section._

 

That sucks but I did find a suitable cover in my parts box. The covers for the German speaker connectors (a spade and a pin) that was used in the 60's and 70's. A few drops of superglue holds it well and it looks great under the heatshrink.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am planing to get parts to have a koss to Stax adapter made. I want to get Koss extension cord and Stax plug. Ed was kind enough to give me a pin out._

 

I have a stock Koss extension cable and the male Stax plugs I would be willing to sell. PM me an offer on what you want.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sold my bass heavy K340 after extensive comparisons to SR-Lambda and MB QP85. I like K340 a lot, but it has a few very annoying things about it's sound. It sounds slightly muddy and boomy in the mid bass and midrange is pushed forward. The final thing that put me off were strange echo and resonance things happening on some records. It sounded very very good with rock and electronic music. I listed to some Zappa recently and it sounded better than SR-Lambda, more involving and guitar was just incredibly rich and dynamic. The soundstage was also smallish and bass resolution was pretty bad, although it had a lot of impact. SR-Lambda somewhat sounded thin and brittle in direct comparison, but so much more resolving still. 

 I think I will still need a pair of headphones for rock similar to my bass heavy K340. But I need to find a pair without the resonance issues. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My pair is bass-light, and sounds very different from what you describe. It has very slightly better detail than the SR-404, and much sharper, more precise imaging. In terms of tonal balance, it is a tad brighter overall but much more linear, without the SR-404's upper midrange peak; if anything, there is a slight lower-midrange emphasis that gives a bit more harmonic saturation to the sound. The bass is tight and punchy, but doesn't extend very deep, in fact, next to the SR-404, it is missing quite a bit of deep bass information. The treble isn't quite as extended either, but it is more linear without the SR-404's lower treble peak. It is also snappier and crisper; the cymbals sound harsher and less velvety than the SR-404, but at the same time more textured and realistic. Cymbals _should_ sound harsh and biting, at least on music that is properly recorded, but you should also hear the initial hit as well as the reverberation, together with any room reflections/interactions in the recording environment. This is evident on both systems, but on the SR-404 it feels insubstantial and lacking in impact; on the K340 it is harsher but more "right."

 But most of all, it's the K340's midrange that wins it for me, or rather, it's the SR-404's midrange that loses it. The SR-404's midrange is peaky and uneven, the tone and tembre are unnatural and instruments are lacking body and presense. On the K340, tone and tembre are much more correct, tone color is much more saturated, and body and heft are much more present. It simply sounds more accurate and more live.

 Let's put it another way: the SR-404 is like looking at a very detailed hologram; nice, but you can see that it is transparent. The K340 is like looking at the object when it is clearly and brightly lit (though not brightly lit in the sense that it desaturates colors); it is thrown into sharper relief than you would perhaps hear it live, but at the same time it is physically there and present.

 Another comparison that I could make would be this: the SR-404 is like an image that is a bit out of focus; all of the detail is there but the edges are smudged, and minute detail is harder to see. The overall picture is softer, and while it still looks lifelike to some extent the last degree of realism is lost. The K340, on the other hand, snaps the picture clearly into focus, and it becomes lifelike enough that you can suspend disbelief and prentend that you're looking at the real thing, which you can't do as well with the SR-404. Also, the SR-404's tone color is clearly wrong, and is colder than it should be in real life; the K340's color is a bit oversaturated and a bit warmer, but both effects are pleasant and subtle colorations, unlike the SR-404's one, and don't detract from the realism, but add to the overall enjoyment.

 As far as the soundstage goes, the SR-404 has a bigger one to be sure. However, its diffuse imaging hurts it in comparison to the K340, which manages to pack much more dimensional information into a somewhat smaller space.

 Anyway, the important bit here is that different K340's don't sound alike, and I've heard one that has the tonal balance of an HD650 (while mine has a tonal balance that's more Grado-like if anything). It didn't have anywhere near the detail level of my pair, nor the treble extension, instrument separation, and imaging precision, and though many fundamental aspects of the sound were the same (it still sounded like a K340) it was a very different animal - full, bassy, overly warm, and impactful.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could never live with the HEV90 in stock form. It takes a good headphone down a couple of notches just by bad engineering and parts quality. The sound is so diffused and it seemed like I was listening to a blob of sound with very few spatial cues. I believe the HEV90 has some promise in the Aristaeus form and I'm going to buy or build one and upgrade it._

 

Interesting. I would have to say that spatial cues were in fact one of the biggest strengths of the system that I heard. Not only was it able to project instruments in space correctly relative to one another, but it was also able to correctly portray the size of the recording environment i.e. a concert hall. I could literally close my eyes and the illusion of being in a real concert hall was more complete than it was on any other system that I've heard before or since.

 As far as the diffuse quality of the sound - that to me is a characteristic of electrostatic drivers in general, and I didn't hear an electrostatic system yet that didn't suffer from it to some degree. Stats can portray spatial cues well, and they can image well, but image crispness and specificity is not one of their strengths, at least compared to dynamics and strangely enough balanced armatures.

 [Edit: I should, of course, add that I haven't heard anywhere near the scope of all the electrostatic headphones available, and if in fact there ARE stats that don't suffer from this problem, it will greatly elevate my opinion of electrostatic drivers. But, I'll believe it when I hear it (and hopefully "when", and not "if").]


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I would have to say that spatial cues were in fact one of the biggest strengths of the system that I heard. Not only was it able to project instruments in space correctly relative to one another, but it was also able to correctly portray the size of the recording environment i.e. a concert hall. I could literally close my eyes and the illusion of being in a real concert hall was more complete than it was on any other system that I've heard before or since.

 As far as the diffuse quality of the sound - that to me is a characteristic of electrostatic drivers in general, and I didn't hear an electrostatic system yet that didn't suffer from it to some degree. Stats can portray spatial cues well, and they can image well, but image crispness and specificity is not one of their strengths, at least compared to dynamics and strangely enough balanced armatures.

 [Edit: I should, of course, add that I haven't heard anywhere near the scope of all the electrostatic headphones available, and if in fact there ARE stats that don't suffer from this problem, it will greatly elevate my opinion of electrostatic drivers. But, I'll believe it when I hear it (and hopefully "when", and not "if").]_

 

The spatial cues are impressive if you haven't spent an enormous time with the SR-007 in a good, well matched system. In comparison then the He90 soundstage is overblown and doesn't resize with the venue or the recording. It's always big no matter what and it's impossible to pin point anything as as the whole stage is a blur. Voices are much larger then life for instance. What they really lack is the depth and layering both omegas can pull off. Performers can be two rows down and the He90 can't spot it while the O1 and O2 can. 

 Then there is the upper midrange harshness and the thin bass, that while extended gets confused easily. It's a great headphone but it's certainly not the best. 

 Now I'm off to try and set my self on fire by plugging in the SRA-3S amp I've been restoring. Wish me luck...


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I'm off to try and set my self on fire by plugging in the SRA-3S amp I've been restoring. Wish me luck... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Good luck!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good luck!_

 

Thanks for that as it looks like it did the trick. It's alive after a little cleaning and sounds pretty good. It has had a rough life but I hasn't been used much as the original tubes are still like new. They are Toshiba so Stax did use them to design the T1 circuit.


----------



## John Buchanan

I liked the SRA-3S better than an SRA-12S I had way back when.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I liked the SRA-3S better than an SRA-12S I had way back when._

 

This is a stunning amp considering how old it is. It can't match the newer amps in detail and air in the HF, bass impact and extension and the midrange is a bit recessed but it simply drips musicality with the undamped SR-Lambda. I can't wait to hook up one of my SR-3's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 One extra bonus is the size of the amp. For a tube amp with 3 inputs it is tiny, smaller then a 313. Best 50$ I've ever spent.


----------



## krmathis

Once more the Stax thread have dropped down to page three (3)!
 So I am resurrecting it from the "dead"... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just buy it used if you can find it. 650$ for the SC1 and a T1W... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great deal you got, if I can say so...
 I've posted a WTB, and will keep my eyes open. 

  Quote:


 It's still a smart move for Justin as he's not going to sell a whole lot more then this. 
 

I really don't understand why he limit himself to such low number of units. What if he sell the announced 10 amplifiers in advance, then shortly after release 5 more customers want one? They are just out of luck!

 I think he would be much better off producing the actual number of amplifiers that the market want (aka units in order), not limited by a certain number of units. Let it be 10, 15, or maybe even 20... 
 Just like other amplifier manufacturers, like ex. Ray Samuels.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he would be much better off producing the actual number of amplifiers that the market want (aka units in order), not limited by a certain number of units. Let it be 10, 15, or maybe even 20... 
 Just like other amplifier manufacturers, like ex. Ray Samuels._

 

So what exactly is the number the market wants? When you're a small one-man shop (where custom ordering parts is a serious pain), the rule is to play it safe. My feeling is that Justin has less capital to play games with (like Mikhail and Ray.) If you set a number, even if someone backs out, the leftover unit will still probably be sold because there is a demand. It's actually quite simple.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great deal you got, if I can say so...
 I've posted a WTB, and will keep my eyes open._

 

I'm a sucker for a good deal and that's why I have many SR-3 New phones around... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really don't understand why he limit himself to such low number of units. What if he sell the announced 10 amplifiers in advance, then shortly after release 5 more customers want one? They are just out of luck!

 I think he would be much better off producing the actual number of amplifiers that the market want (aka units in order), not limited by a certain number of units. Let it be 10, 15, or maybe even 20... 
 Just like other amplifier manufacturers, like ex. Ray Samuels._

 

He only sold 12 of the original Blue Hawaii so it's a very smart thing to do. We could maybe persuade him to do another run later on but he is juggling a lot of projects at the same time so it would be a while. High end electrostatic amps aren't in that high a demand so limited is the way to go.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what exactly is the number the market wants?_

 

I say thats hard to predict before the actual amplifier are released, so the potential customers know what they order and pay for.
 Locking the production volume to 10 units is fine if there are a market for 10 units only. But locking it to 10 units is bad business if there are a market for 15-20 units. Cause then the vendor will loose out on those 10+ sales...

  Quote:


 When you're a small one-man shop (where custom ordering parts is a serious pain), the rule is to play it safe. My feeling is that Justin has less capital to play games with (like Mikhail and Ray.) 
 

He ask for money in advance at order time don't he?
 Then he could build one batch of amplifiers (ex. 10), deliver those and get full payment. Then move on to the next batch...
 All his development costs would be shared on more units, aka lower cost.

 Or am I missing out of something? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 If you set a number, even if someone backs out, the leftover unit will still probably be sold because there is a demand. It's actually quite simple. 
 

Yes, I know that eventual leftover units will sell.
 I am actually talking about the cases where the produced units are lower than the actual demand. Which afaik was the case with the Aristaeus, and for all I know will be the case with the KGHB SE as well...

 Cause from what I hear the last of the 10 KGBH SE's sold a couple of days back, and I might want one after I see the initial pictures. But it seems like its already too late, even before the amplifier is released.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He only sold 12 of the original Blue Hawaii so it's a very smart thing to do. We could maybe persuade him to do another run later on but he is juggling a lot of projects at the same time so it would be a while.

 High end electrostatic amps aren't in that high a demand so limited is the way to go._

 

Well, I still don't get it!
 Meaning I don't understand why a vendor have to set such a low number of units to produce. 
 Targeting a first batch of 10 units is fine. Since its feasible to sell all of them, and its probably enough units to share the development costs. But if there end up being a demand for 12 units in total (like the BH), why not build 12 units and satisfy all customers? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In short, I say a product should not be discontinued before its even released.


 Anyway. I really hope Justin release a beautiful looking amplifier (like the Aristaeus), and that I can order one when that time comes...


----------



## audiod

FYI. There are 2 sets of vintage Magnevox electrostatic headphones brand new and never used on Ebay USA for $75.00 "Buy it Now". Sounds like a good deal. Any collector should go for it.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I still don't get it!
 Meaning I don't understand why a vendor have to set such a low number of units to produce. 
 Targeting a first batch of 10 units is fine. Since its feasible to sell all of them, and its probably enough units to share the development costs. But if there end up being a demand for 12 units in total (like the BH), why not build 12 units and satisfy all customers? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In short, I say a product should not be discontinued before its even released.


 Anyway. I really hope Justin release a beautiful looking amplifier (like the Aristaeus), and that I can order one when that time comes... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The sad part is the fixed number draws people in. I guess it's better to sell 10 and get it over with rather then being stuck with some of them. I know Justin sees the extra demand for electrostatic amps and I'm sure he'll do something nice for us... "hint,hint" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI. There are 2 sets of vintage Magnevox electrostatic headphones brand new and never used on Ebay USA for $75.00 "Buy it Now". Sounds like a good deal. Any collector should go for it.

 AudioD
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I own two of them and stay away unless the sell is willing to play them for over two days and tell if they actually function. Both of mine were NOS and both had corrosion issues in the drivers that needed a very steady hand to fix and some fine silver wire. They were made by Stax and are the same as the Marantz and the Realistic phones. 

 They don't sound all that great so only buy them if you are as nuts as I am...


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sad part is the fixed number draws people in. I guess it's better to sell 10 and get it over with rather then being stuck with some of them. I know Justin sees the extra demand for electrostatic amps and I'm sure he'll do something nice for us... "hint,hint" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think that's probably true but at the same time the fixed number can loose sales too. Personally exclusivity doesn't mean a lot to me. I'd rather just have something that's a known quantity that I can buy when I have the cash spare. Even if the ES-1 is more expensive and the wait times are long it's an easier purchase in some regards.


----------



## Duggeh

I frankly dont care if the KGBHSE from Headamp ends up looking like a turd with a Stax socket on it, it'll sound frickin awesome and I wish I could just put down for one. I have no such economic fertility though.

 Then again we all know that I'm hardly one to put aesthetics as a high priority with my gear.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I frankly dont care if the KGBHSE from Headamp ends up looking like a turd with a Stax socket on it, it'll sound frickin awesome and I wish I could just put down for one. I have no such economic fertility though._

 

Haha, ditto. I wish I could afford to have a nice electrostatic rig one day.

 By the way, it should be interesting to note that if you contacted Justin, he could most probably be able to put you on the wait-list for the next "special edition" amplifier, no? By wait-list, I mean the back of his mind, haha. Essentially, it's almost as if your putting in a special order; you just potentially have a long wait period (the period it takes for Justin to receive enough personal special edition requests).

 As he has said in the past regarding a few things, if enough people are devotedly interested, he'll probably consider a special project seriously.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sad part is the fixed number draws people in. I guess it's better to sell 10 and get it over with rather then being stuck with some of them. I know Justin sees the extra demand for electrostatic amps and I'm sure he'll do something nice for us... "hint,hint" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sure, the low fixed number of units _might_ draw people in.
 But there might also be a market for 10 units as pre-order, and who knows how many additional ones after a release and marketing on his website...

 I emailed Justin, and got the following reply:
 "As of yesterday, all the KGBH SE's have been reserved. So unless someone backs out, there are no more available. *Because of the demand I will likely build more sometime next year*."

 The sad news are that all the 10 units have been reserved. But the good news are that he will likely built more of them next year.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I frankly dont care if the KGBHSE from Headamp ends up looking like a turd with a Stax socket on it, it'll sound frickin awesome and I wish I could just put down for one. I have no such economic fertility though._

 

I usually don't care too much about looks either.
 But after seeing the Aristaeus I know what Justin are able to produce, and expect nothing less from his future high-end amplifiers.

 The sound quality are most important. But when I are to pay $4500 for an amplifier it need to have some serious casework as well!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sad news are that all the 10 units have been reserved. But the good news are that he will likely built more of them next year._

 

Sounds promising. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I usually don't care too much about looks either.
 But after seeing the Aristaeus I know what Justin are able to produce, and expect nothing less from his future high-end amplifiers.

 The sound quality are most important. But when I are to pay $4500 for an amplifier it need to have some serious casework as well!_

 

I must be one of the few who couldn't care about looks. I'd be happy if it came in a cardboard box as long as it sounded great and wouldn't catch fire. I can still appreciate a nice looking case though.


----------



## Icarium

It's pretty simple. He builds X # and it has to be a fixed # from the start because of the price breaks from buying in bulk (Price breaks at 10 pieces etc). 

 What he can do is do a running group buy like the minute it reaches 10, order the parts and do another run of 10... 
 When I asked him about the Aristaeus at the national meet he says yeah if you can find 9 other people another run is negotiable.

 He isn't a fan of taking money upfront unless he absolutely needs it because as it is in this game... delays crop up. And it is just easier dealing with flakes who flake out without any money down than dealing with angry people who's money you have and you are 2 months late because of some sort of fab issue.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's pretty simple. He builds X # and it has to be a fixed # from the start because of the price breaks he can get buying stuff in a bulk order. 

 What he can do is do a running group buy like the minute it reaches 10, order the parts and do another run of 10... 
 When I asked him about the Aristaeus at the national meet he says yeah if you can find 9 other people another run is negotiable._

 

Yep, yep. That approach is exactly what I've been referring to; it makes sense.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I asked him about the Aristaeus at the national meet he says yeah if you can find 9 other people another run is negotiable._

 

I might be interested in an Aristaeus. Plus spritzer and krmathis, that's three already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I passed on the KGBH SE about a month ago, and I'm beginning to regret it. A deposit was required, which was 20%, I believe. Very reasonable.

 Wait, what are you doing in this thread? Trying to join the Stax Mafia? (without a Stax!?)


----------



## Johnny Blue

A small diversion from the current tack of this thread:

 I was listening here in my office yesterday to a new CD (Jon Balke's 'Diverted Travels' on ECM) and, just for a change, was using my SR-202s out of the SRM-1/Mk-2, instead of the SR-5 Golds out of the SRD-7.

 I was struck by how good the 202s sounded: bass like I'd never heard before, and great sound-staging, presumably down to the famed ECM recording quality. I began to wonder why I ever thought the SR-5s out of the SRD-7 were so good, clearly the 202s and SRM-1/Mk-2 outperformed them on every level...

 ...it was only when I finished work that I noticed that the mute switch on my Naim pre-amp was NOT switched on, and that because the SRD-7 was switched to 'power off'/'loudspeaker', I was hearing it from my bookshelf speakers as well as through the headphones! Hence the astounding bass and the incredible soundstage!

 God only knows what the neighbours will have made of the incredibly loud (and sometimes weird) sounds coming out of my house yesterday!

 Listening to it again now, with the speakers off (sparing the neighbours!) it is still a stunning-sounding CD, but, sadly, not nearly as impressive as I thought!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I must be one of the few who couldn't care about looks. I'd be happy if it came in a cardboard box as long as it sounded great and wouldn't catch fire. I can still appreciate a nice looking case though._

 

I envy you for this.
 Cause for me looks count a lot when I buy a high end product.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What he can do is do a running group buy like the minute it reaches 10, order the parts and do another run of 10..._

 

Exactly!
 He don't need to limit himself to a total of 10 units only. He can build them in batches.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I asked him about the Aristaeus at the national meet he says yeah if you can find 9 other people another run is negotiable._

 

Thats all new to me!
 I asked Justin about the possibility to buy an Aristaeus (after the 12 had been sold). He answered that he had components to build one or maybe two more, but no chassis'. It would take about 6 months to get chassis' from the supplier.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might be interested in an Aristaeus. Plus spritzer and krmathis, that's three already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I 'might' still be interested in one.
 But the fact that its not a fully balanced construction are holding me back.

 The KGBH SE on the other hand is a fully balanced construction.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might be interested in an Aristaeus. Plus spritzer and krmathis, that's three already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I passed on the KGBH SE about a month ago, and I'm beginning to regret it. A deposit was required, which was 20%, I believe. Very reasonable.

 Wait, what are you doing in this thread? Trying to join the Stax Mafia? (without a Stax!?) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Justin knows that I'm interested in an Aristaeus but I'm certainly not a big motivator for another run since I can't play nice and have what the other children are having. I always need to have some extra features and upgraded components...


----------



## krmathis

Birgir (spritzer). How do you like the 4070's?
 This is what you have mentioned so far:
 * ...big and heavy, but smaller than a Sigma.
 * ...pretty good.
 * ...mellow.

 But I would like to hear more impressions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir (spritzer). How do you like the 4070's?
 This is what you have mentioned so far:
 * ...big and heavy, but smaller than a Sigma.
 * ...pretty good.
 * ...mellow.

 But I would like to hear more impressions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So I forgot to post my impressions here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ohh well... That monitor badge on each cup is there for a reason. The bass is extended but it doesn't have the presence of the SR-007. It's flat and taught and very nice. The midrange is just a bit shut in, nothing major and it is actually better then the He60. The top end doesn't have the flesh and texture of either Omega so bad recordings sound worse then they really are. It's good for monitoring but not so for music but it's not a problem and the top end is smooth enough. 

 Detail is excelent and they pick up minute things down in the mix. Soundstage is hurt most by the closed earcups. It's wide but it lacks the depth and layering of the TOTL models.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I forgot to post my impressions here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ohh well..._

 

Seems like we have somewhat similar experience with the 4070's then.
 They have good bass extension, punch, and a flat frequency response. But the soundstage hurt a bit by their closed-back design.

 The SR-007 are clearly the overall winner. But considering what they are (only closed-back electrostatic headphone on the market), it sure has its qualities.
 I love mine!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems like we have somewhat similar experience with the 4070's then.
 They have good bass extension, punch, and a flat frequency response. But the soundstage hurt a bit by their closed-back design.

 The SR-007 are clearly the overall winner. But considering what they are (only closed-back electrostatic headphone on the market), it sure has its qualities.
 I love mine! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's a very good headphone and it has earned its place in the top 5.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I forgot to post my impressions here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ohh well... That monitor badge on each cup is there for a reason. The bass is extended but it doesn't have the presence of the SR-007. It's flat and taught and very nice. The midrange is just a bit shut in, nothing major and it is actually better then the He60. The top end doesn't have the flesh and texture of either Omega so bad recordings sound worse then they really are. It's good for monitoring but not so for music but it's not a problem and the top end is smooth enough. 

 Detail is excellent and they pick up minute things down in the mix. Soundstage is hurt most by the closed earcups. It's wide but it lacks the depth and layering of the TOTL models._

 

Thanks guys, you have probably saved me about $1500 or so. I was seriously considering the 4070, but enough of you have described it in such a way that I probably don't want to go that route. 

 Still contemplating the fate of my O2s. I'm away on a biz trip this week, so I can listen to them with fresh ears over the weekend. I'd sure like to try them with one of my big old Fisher tube amp with a pro bias adaptor, but these adaptors are pretty scarce. I do think you guys are right about the Stax amps not having the nads to power the O2s properly.

 I've lusted over the O2s for a long time and finally have a very nice set. If I could just get them to come alive without spending a fortune!?!


----------



## spritzer

If you are handy with a soldering iron and know your way around an amp you can convert a stereo push-pull tube speaker amp so it can drive Stax with only a few parts. It might not be the ideal match but could sound very nice indeed.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you are handy with a soldering iron and know your way around an amp you can convert a stereo push-pull tube speaker amp so it can drive Stax with only a few parts. It might not be the ideal match but could sound very nice indeed._

 


 Thanks. I wouldn't dare mess around with the voltages in a tube amp, but I have a tech who maybe could do it - if I knew what to tell him. I also have an SRD-6 and an SRD-7 that could be converted to pro bias, but I don't know enough to do it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. I wouldn't dare mess around with the voltages in a tube amp, but I have a tech who maybe could do it - if I knew what to tell him. I also have an SRD-6 and an SRD-7 that could be converted to pro bias, but I don't know enough to do it._

 

It's dangerous so you need to know what you are doing.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys, you have probably saved me about $1500 or so. I was seriously considering the 4070, but enough of you have described it in such a way that I probably don't want to go that route. 

 Still contemplating the fate of my O2s. I'm away on a biz trip this week, so I can listen to them with fresh ears over the weekend. I'd sure like to try them with one of my big old Fisher tube amp with a pro bias adaptor, but these adaptors are pretty scarce. I do think you guys are right about the Stax amps not having the nads to power the O2s properly.

 I've lusted over the O2s for a long time and finally have a very nice set. If I could just get them to come alive without spending a fortune!?!_

 

You could just drive them with a normal bias transformer. Using the pro-bias is more efficient but I think the fisher has enough power to get away with it.


----------



## naamanf

So in my quest for my next headphone I think I am just going to break down and get the Omega II. But first I have a couple questions.

 Where is the best place to purchase them from. I am in the US. 

 Second is the 007TA amp good enough or is it worth it to get a different amp? I am try to do this as cheap as possible (if you can call $3000+ for heaphones cheap) but still want a quality system.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So in my quest for my next headphone I think I am just going to break down and get the Omega II. But first I have a couple questions.

 Where is the best place to purchase them from. I am in the US. 

 Second is the 007TA amp good enough or is it worth it to get a different amp? I am try to do this as cheap as possible (if you can call $3000+ for heaphones cheap) but still want a quality system._

 

The general consensus around here is that the 007T amps are pretty good, but overpriced... so you probably will want to get a different amp.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So in my quest for my next headphone I think I am just going to break down and get the Omega II. But first I have a couple questions.

 Where is the best place to purchase them from. I am in the US. 

 Second is the 007TA amp good enough or is it worth it to get a different amp? I am try to do this as cheap as possible (if you can call $3000+ for heaphones cheap) but still want a quality system._

 

The 007t would be a good amp for a lambda type earspeaker but the SR-007 wants MOORREE muwhahaha...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might be interested in an Aristaeus. Plus spritzer and krmathis, that's three already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I passed on the KGBH SE about a month ago, and I'm beginning to regret it. A deposit was required, which was 20%, I believe. Very reasonable.

 Wait, what are you doing in this thread? Trying to join the Stax Mafia? (without a Stax!?) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmm, would an Aristaeus make a good Lambda amp?


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could just drive them with a normal bias transformer. Using the pro-bias is more efficient but I think the fisher has enough power to get away with it._

 

Thanks for that. The Fisher amps will pretty much pull stumps alright. If the bias difference is a matter of efficiency, I can deal with that. Would there be much actual sound difference between the pro and normal bias?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A small diversion from the current tack of this thread:

 I was listening here in my office yesterday to a new CD (Jon Balke's 'Diverted Travels' on ECM) and, just for a change, was using my SR-202s out of the SRM-1/Mk-2, instead of the SR-5 Golds out of the SRD-7.

 I was struck by how good the 202s sounded: bass like I'd never heard before, and great sound-staging, presumably down to the famed ECM recording quality. I began to wonder why I ever thought the SR-5s out of the SRD-7 were so good, clearly the 202s and SRM-1/Mk-2 outperformed them on every level...

 ...it was only when I finished work that I noticed that the mute switch on my Naim pre-amp was NOT switched on, and that because the SRD-7 was switched to 'power off'/'loudspeaker', I was hearing it from my bookshelf speakers as well as through the headphones! Hence the astounding bass and the incredible soundstage!

 God only knows what the neighbours will have made of the incredibly loud (and sometimes weird) sounds coming out of my house yesterday!

 Listening to it again now, with the speakers off (sparing the neighbours!) it is still a stunning-sounding CD, but, sadly, not nearly as impressive as I thought!_

 


 I have done this inadvertently a few times too and thought - wow you really get a sense of externalization. A bit of mudiness in the sound though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that. The Fisher amps will pretty much pull stumps alright. If the bias difference is a matter of efficiency, I can deal with that. Would there be much actual sound difference between the pro and normal bias?_

 

The pro and normal bias drivers are different with I believe greater spacing between the stators for the pro's. When you run a pro phone from a low bias source you lose some serious efficiency but most phones will still play. With the little SR003 you get very little loss of sound from a low bias source and it sounds pretty good.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 007t would be a good amp for a lambda type earspeaker but the SR-007 wants MOORREE muwhahaha..._

 

So what would be a good amp for the 007 without breaking the bank?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what would be a good amp for the 007 without breaking the bank?_

 

Aah, the age-old question raises its ugly head again.

 From what I've read the bank gets seriously dented unlessss.....

 Spritzer, do you have an answer to this dilemma?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, would an Aristaeus make a good Lambda amp?_

 

Yes it would be a great amp but all the coupling caps will have their own sound. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that. The Fisher amps will pretty much pull stumps alright. If the bias difference is a matter of efficiency, I can deal with that. Would there be much actual sound difference between the pro and normal bias?_

 

The sound is pretty different with the normal bias. The easiest bias supply you can build is a voltage multiplier with a zener on the input. It's not that hard to build. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aah, the age-old question raises its ugly head again.

 From what I've read the bank gets seriously dented unlessss.....

 Spritzer, do you have an answer to this dilemma?_

 

There is no easy way to answer this. The KGSS is the cheapest amp that will drive them acceptably well and it costs about the same as the 007t.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could just drive them with a normal bias transformer. Using the pro-bias is more efficient but I think the fisher has enough power to get away with it._

 

This is interesting: I've been asking on and off for weeks (months, years, maybe!) about how to convert a normal bias trafo (SRD-6/7) to a pro bias, but despite enthusiasm from various threaders, nobody has told me how to do it easily.

 May be I'm barking up the wrong tree, or rather (to stretch the metaphor) I'd find it easier to bark up a much smaller/easier tree. What is the loss (or possible risk of damage?) of running a Stax pro bias earspeaker out of a normal bias socket on a SRD-6/7? Is it, as Tachikoma seems to be hinting, that if I've got a powerful enough amp (in my case a dedicated Naim NAP 140), then I don't need the pro bias supply after all?

 Has anybody here with a SRD-7/Mk II ever tried doing a direct A - B with a pro bias earspeaker out of the pro and then normal bias sockets? What is the difference, is it just a matter of turning up the volume when it's on the normal bias?

 The right answer to this question could save me (and others here) a fortune in our quest for a pro-bias trafo!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what would be a good amp for the SR-007 without breaking the bank?_

 

I would look for a used SRM-717 (it is Stax's highest output available amp). It drives the O2’s extremely well. It will play them LOUD. I have both a 007t and 717 and much prefer the 717 for the O2's. More dynamic, deeper bass, extended highs, better detail and transparency, and yes it is musical with a nice smooth midrange. Don't go for the 727II it's dull and lifeless. I have not listened to a KGSS, but have stayed away because of reports of a forward solid state sound. I am usually a tube guy. A used 717 goes for about $800 to $900 USD.

 AudioD


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So in my quest for my next headphone I think I am just going to break down and get the Omega II. But first I have a couple questions.

 Where is the best place to purchase them from. I am in the US._

 

Depends what you mean with "Best". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 "Best", as in local store for easier warranty and support? Or "Best, as in lowest price?

 You will certainly get the lowest price by importing directly from japan, through PriceJapan or EIFL. Around $1500 I assume.
 Check out the US distributor if you want the safety of buying local. http://www.yamasinc.com
 Or buy a used pair, if you can find one..
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Second is the 007TA amp good enough or is it worth it to get a different amp? I am try to do this as cheap as possible (if you can call $3000+ for heaphones cheap) but still want a quality system._

 

I find the SRM-007t to be a nice amplifier for the SR-007.
 But it might be overpriced, and there are certainly more powerful amplifiers out there.


----------



## naamanf

Looks like looking for a used SRM-717 is in order. 

 Thanks for all the replies.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is interesting: I've been asking on and off for weeks (months, years, maybe!) about how to convert a normal bias trafo (SRD-6/7) to a pro bias, but despite enthusiasm from various threaders, nobody has told me how to do it easily.

 May be I'm barking up the wrong tree, or rather (to stretch the metaphor) I'd find it easier to bark up a much smaller/easier tree. What is the loss (or possible risk of damage?) of running a Stax pro bias earspeaker out of a normal bias socket on a SRD-6/7? Is it, as Tachikoma seems to be hinting, that if I've got a powerful enough amp (in my case a dedicated Naim NAP 140), then I don't need the pro bias supply after all?

 Has anybody here with a SRD-7/Mk II ever tried doing a direct A - B with a pro bias earspeaker out of the pro and then normal bias sockets? What is the difference, is it just a matter of turning up the volume when it's on the normal bias?

 The right answer to this question could save me (and others here) a fortune in our quest for a pro-bias trafo!_

 

Feeding the stators more voltage with lower bias voltage isn't the right way. The diaphragm is 0.2mm further away from the stators so you need the extra bias voltage to increase the efficiency. Therefor the sound will always feel soft no matter what voltage you feed the stators. 

 There isn't going to be any easy way to convert an adapter as working with live AC is always hazardous and you need to know what you are doing.


----------



## naamanf

Well to make things a little harder I contacted Yamasinc and they said that the new SR-007MK2 should be available by the end of the month. Do I get a Omega II now or wait for the reviews for the MK2 to come in. The price for the new headphones should be the same for the old.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well to make things a little harder I contacted Yamasinc and they said that the new SR-007MK2 should be available by the end of the month. Do I get a Omega II now or wait for the reviews for the MK2 to come in. The price for the new headphones should be the same for the old._

 

I would without a doubt have waited for the SR-007mk2.
 From what we know its most probably only cosmetic changes. So feel free to buy as soon its available, instead of waiting for the first reviews.

 Some pictures (not verified that the end product will look 100% like these though):
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/2108/65242220bu5.jpg
http://photo.head-fi.org/data/501/007_Mk_01.jpg
http://photo.head-fi.org/data/501/007_Mk_02.jpg

 The clear version don't look very different to the current SR-007BL version.
 My SR-007BL here, for comparison: http://photo.head-fi.org/showphoto.p...18288&cat=1063


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Feeding the stators more voltage with lower bias voltage isn't the right way. The diaphragm is 0.2mm further away from the stators so you need the extra bias voltage to increase the efficiency. Therefor the sound will always feel soft no matter what voltage you feed the stators. 

 There isn't going to be any easy way to convert an adapter as working with live AC is always hazardous and you need to know what you are doing._

 


 Curses! I thought that sounded too easy...

 Oh well, back to the seemingly never-ending quest for a pro bias trafo...

 (and thanks, Birgir, for puttiing me straight!)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well to make things a little harder I contacted Yamasinc and they said that the new SR-007MK2 should be available by the end of the month. Do I get a Omega II now or wait for the reviews for the MK2 to come in. The price for the new headphones should be the same for the old._

 

Go with the MK2's if you can stand the wait. I'll be ordering one and so are some other members that also own a Mk1 so impressions should be available soon after they are released. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Curses! I thought that sounded too easy...

 Oh well, back to the seemingly never-ending quest for a pro bias trafo...

 (and thanks, Birgir, for puttiing me straight!)_

 

Nothing is ever easy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Btw. I'm going to sell a bit of my collection soon and one of the Mk2's might be included...


----------



## AudioCats

Does anybody have the dimansions of the Lambda pads? (Length x Widthx thickness).
 Also Sigma pro pads? 

 I am looking for possible replacement pads for my ESP950, the stock pleather pads don't seal well around my ears....

 Thanks


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody have the dimansions of the Lambda pads? (Length x Widthx thickness).
 Also Sigma pro pads?_

 

All the Lambda phones use identical sized pads.





 Thickness varies between 0.3 and 1 inch, depending on where you measure


----------



## spritzer

The Sigma pads are the same width but 1cm shorter and they have a uniform thickness of about 8mm or so


----------



## derekbmn

A bit off topic, but thought i'd share it anyway.




 My winter project !!! It's a bit rough (cosmetics wise).


----------



## spritzer

It's a very Rek-O-Nut you've got there. It looks rough but as long as the main parts are in good condition it will be a very nice project. 

 I've spent most of the day ripping my HE60 to pieces because both drivers were acting up. The right driver would hiss and oscillate violently so the phones would start to shake and the left one had a faint hiss. It turned out to be debris stuck to the mylar mostly because Sennheiser, in their infinite wisdom 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, didn't use a proper dustcover. 

 The drivers are only composed of 4 parts, 2 stators and the disks that hold the "dust covers". The stators are molded plastic with golden conductive paint acting as the conductor. The is a small groove that separates the stator from the bias charge ring which is also made conductive with paint. The film is stretched over the back stator. The only metal parts in the drivers are the small connectors that the wires are soldered to and connect them to the paint. The construction is very different from the He90 drivers and the phones have very little in common except the mylar used and the cable.


----------



## jcn3

i'm officially a member of the illustrious stax community -- my stax srm-007t arrived today (thx mercman). needless to say i'm thrilled.

 now if my headphones from pricejapan would get here . . . hopefully monday!

 i look forward to providing an official report.

 question regarding the 6cg7s -- the ones in the amp do not have any brand on them, are labeled u.s.a., and have a inverted u-shaped filament on top. any idea what brand these could be? would be helpful to have a picture, huh?


----------



## spritzer

A picture would help.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm officially a member of the illustrious stax community -- my stax srm-007t arrived today (thx mercman). needless to say i'm thrilled.

 now if my headphones from pricejapan would get here . . . hopefully monday!_

 

Welcome aboard!
 Which headphone do you have in order? SR-007, SR-404, or something else?


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome aboard!
 Which headphone do you have in order? SR-007, SR-404, or something else?_

 

i ordered the sr-404s -- that seemed like a good place to start.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i ordered the sr-404s -- that seemed like a good place to start._

 

Nice! The SR-404 sure are a great headphone, which will match up nicely with the SRM-007t.
 Lets hope it arrives soon so you can make use of the amplifier, and get to know the system.

 Keep us posted!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I'm going to sell a bit of my collection soon and one of the Mk2's might be included... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Be sure to let me know if and when!


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All the Lambda phones use identical sized pads.





 Thickness varies between 0.3 and 1 inch, depending on where you measure_

 

Thanks, the ESP950's pad is (longest x widest) 5"x3.25". looks like the Lambda pads might fit, except the sticky tape part. Is there a Lambda using uniform thickenss pads? Audiocubes website is showing a bunch of different Lambda pads at different prices.....

  Quote:


 The Sigma pads are the same width but 1cm shorter and they have a uniform thickness of about 8mm or so 
 

Thanks, so the Sigma pads are out.


  Quote:


 The drivers are only composed of 4 parts, 2 stators and the disks that hold the "dust covers". The stators are molded plastic with golden conductive paint acting as the conductor. The is a small groove that separates the stator from the bias charge ring which is also made conductive with paint. The film is stretched over the back stator. The only metal parts in the drivers are the small connectors that the wires are soldered to and connect them to the paint. The construction is very different from the He90 drivers and the phones have very little in common except the mylar used and the cable. 
 

HE60 construction eh? Super interesting! any pictures?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, the ESP950's pad is (longest x widest) 5"x3.25". looks like the Lambda pads might fit, except the sticky tape part. Is there a Lambda using uniform thickenss pads? Audiocubes website is showing a bunch of different Lambda pads at different prices....._

 

Afaik no Lambda pads are uniform thickness. They have the thickest part (~1 inch) in the lower back corner, and the thinest part (~0.3 inch) in the upper front corner. The different Lambda pads on Audio Cubes II are all the same shape, but have different colors. I ordered SR-202 pads and received black ones, if that helps..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be sure to let me know if and when!_

 

I'll drop you a PM if I do post a huge for sale post... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HE60 construction eh? Super interesting! any pictures?_

 

No pictures. I don't bother stopping to take pictures when I'm working on drivers as I want them closed ASAP.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll drop you a PM if I do post a huge for sale post... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great, thanks! (It never occurs to me to look on the for sale ads here, I only ever look at eBay, where some prices these days are quite ridiculous, although I was surprised the recent UK SR-X Mk 2 didn't go for more: perhaps the seller's mention of '110v' for the SRD-7 might have been a turn-off, but even there it looks identical to mine, which is up to 240v mains input... )


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great, thanks! (It never occurs to me to look on the for sale ads here, I only ever look at eBay, where some prices these days are quite ridiculous, although I was surprised the recent UK SR-X Mk 2 didn't go for more: perhaps the seller's mention of '110v' for the SRD-7 might have been a turn-off, but even there it looks identical to mine, which is up to 240v mains input... )_

 

The SR-X Mk2 is worth a lot in good condition. I learned that the heard way outbidding the crazy Japanese Stax nuts. It's a shame that one of my sets is broken with burned up diaphragms... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SRD-7's vary a lot in price. I got my first Mk2 pretty cheap but the second was very expensive. I still get a few normal bias units from time to time but I've instructed my deputy service in Japan to throw them out if any show up. The shipping is much too expensive.


----------



## jcn3

my sr-404s are in the house -- they were actually delivered on a sunday!

 i've got them hooked up to my 007t and burning in, but my initial impressions are very positive -- they definitely sound much more musical than my old dynamic set-up.

 i'll wait until tomorrow morning to provide more detailed impressions.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_my sr-404s are in the house -- they were actually delivered on a sunday!_

 

That was quite fast.
 Delivery on a Sunday is great as well. Wish there were such service over here...
  Quote:


 i've got them hooked up to my 007t and burning in, but my initial impressions are very positive -- they definitely sound much more musical than my old dynamic set-up.

 i'll wait until tomorrow morning to provide more detailed impressions. 
 

Keep us posted when you have spent some time with them.
 They might be a keeper.


----------



## _LN_

Several people on Head-Fi have suggested using a Sony AC-E455 wall wart to power the SR-001 MKII. So, I bought a used one, and it works. The adapter is rated at 4.5V 500mA. However, its output voltage without a load is a little over 7V, and when used with the SR-001 it's still 5.5V, while the SR-001's maximum input voltage is supposed to be 4.5V. Is there a simple way to safely use this wall wart with the SR-001 after all, short of connecting a bunch of diodes in series to lower the voltage? I've read something about using a 4.3V Zener diode, but I'm not quite sure how to connect one for that purpose. Also, there's no electronics parts store in my town, and buying just one diode online might turn out to be a bit costly. I might be able to scavenge one, but I'm not sure how to recognize it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any suggestions?

 (still looking for a 5 pin Stax plug, BTW)

 Ellen


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Several people on Head-Fi have suggested using a Sony AC-E455 wall wart to power the SR-001 MKII. So, I bought a used one, and it works. The adapter is rated at 4.5V 500mA. However, its output voltage without a load is a little over 7V, and when used with the SR-001 it's still 5.5V, while the SR-001's maximum input voltage is supposed to be 4.5V. Is there a simple way to safely use this wall wart with the SR-001 after all, short of connecting a bunch of diodes in series to lower the voltage? I've read something about using a 4.3V Zener diode, but I'm not quite sure how to connect one for that purpose. Also, there's no electronics parts store in my town, and buying just one diode online might turn out to be a bit costly. I might be able to scavenge one, but I'm not sure how to recognize it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any suggestions?

 (still looking for a 5 pin Stax plug, BTW)

 Ellen_

 

Ellen -- I definitely would not use a wall wart that puts our more voltage than what is rated. Go to an electronics shop and get one that matches -- the one near me has wall warts for every voltage imaginable and they're only $5 each -- it's much easier than trying to band-aid it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ellen -- I definitely would not use a wall wart that puts our more voltage than what is rated. Go to an electronics shop and get one that matches -- the one near me has wall warts for every voltage imaginable and they're only $5 each -- it's much easier than trying to band-aid it._

 

I'll second that. Putting a zener on the Sony unit will work but it is much smarter to get a big bench top PSU with a variable output. 

 The only 5pin plugs readily available are the WPI units Allied sells.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ellen -- I definitely would not use a wall wart that puts our more voltage than what is rated. Go to an electronics shop and get one that matches -- the one near me has wall warts for every voltage imaginable and they're only $5 each -- it's much easier than trying to band-aid it._

 

Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't have an electronics shop nearby, and can't easily travel. Besides, at only $5 each, I doubt those wall warts are regulated, either...

 Ellen


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't have an electronics shop nearby, and can't easily travel. Besides, at only $5 each, I doubt those wall warts are regulated, either...

 Ellen_

 

You are correct, those wall warts were not regulated. However, I don't think the Stax amps require them.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll second that. Putting a zener on the Sony unit will work but it is much smarter to get a big bench top PSU with a variable output._

 

That's what I've been using until now, but it's a bit clumsy, and a shame to tie it up just for this. So I'd rather use a small, cheapish, dedicated power supply. 
 Could you perhaps tell me in a few words how to connect the zener, or is it more complicated than that?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only 5pin plugs readily available are the WPI units Allied sells._

 

Yeah, I was afraid of that... Oh well, I basically just wanted to experiment with hooking the S-001 MK2 up to my SRM-3, anyway.

 Ellen


----------



## spritzer

I would rather use a resistor to drop the voltage then a zener. Diode noise is a horrible thing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I was afraid of that... Oh well, I basically just wanted to experiment with hooking the S-001 MK2 up to my SRM-3, anyway.

 Ellen_

 

There is one thing you can do since it is not going to be a permanent solution. The Molex connectors used inside computers to power the components are the same size as the Stax pins so you can use them. Just be careful about the insulation you use as there is a lot of voltage there.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is one thing you can do since it is not going to be a permanent solution. The Molex connectors used inside computers to power the components are the same size as the Stax pins so you can use them. Just be careful about the insulation you use as there is a lot of voltage there._

 

Hmm, I hadn't thought of that -- thanks for the tip, Birgir! (Of course I still may want a more permanent solution if it sounds good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
 As for the resistor, I may give that a try, and just experiment a bit with different values. I just hope it won't get too hot...

 Ellen


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, I hadn't thought of that -- thanks for the tip, Birgir! (Of course I still may want a more permanent solution if it sounds good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
 As for the resistor, I may give that a try, and just experiment a bit with different values. I just hope it won't get too hot...

 Ellen_

 

The Molex pins work like a charm and you can turn them into a plug with a socket and some molten plastic. 

 You can always use a bigger resistor but the numbers are very low here. I would use a 5w reistor but I'm a bit paranoid.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Molex pins work like a charm and you can turn them into a plug with a socket and some molten plastic. 

 You can always use a bigger resistor but the numbers are very low here. I would use a 5w reistor but I'm a bit paranoid. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

OK. Yeah, I tend to be a bit paranoid too, as far as safety is concerned... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ellen


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would rather use a resistor to drop the voltage then a zener. Diode noise is a horrible thing._

 


 A voltage drop resistor will limit the current capability of the PS. A good power supply has a low source impedance. Under dynamic loading the voltage may modulate with the current demands. If you must use a voltage drop resistor you should put a large cap to ground after the resistor. Your best bet is find another PS.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A voltage drop resistor will limit the current capability of the PS. A good power supply has a low source impedance. Under dynamic loading the voltage may modulate with the current demands. If you must use a voltage drop resistor you should put a large cap to ground after the resistor. Your best bet is find another PS._

 

A new PSU would be the best option. I believe many of the old PCDP's used 4.5v wall warts so that might be a cheap source.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A new PSU would be the best option. I believe many of the old PCDP's used 4.5v wall warts so that might be a cheap source._

 

I may even have a suitable PSU somewhere -- I just went with the Sony one because it was recommended by several Head-Fi members, and it came with a matching DC plug. If I find another suitable PSU, I'll just have to fit it with a different DC plug, which I ordered around the same time I bought the Sony wall wart, just to be sure. (Too bad about the money I spent on it, though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -- hey, I'm Dutch, so I can't help being cheap! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

 Ellen


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Several people on Head-Fi have suggested using a Sony AC-E455 wall wart to power the SR-001 MKII. So, I bought a used one, and it works. The adapter is rated at 4.5V 500mA. However, its output voltage without a load is a little over 7V, and when used with the SR-001 it's still 5.5V, while the SR-001's maximum input voltage is supposed to be 4.5V. Is there a simple way to safely use this wall wart with the SR-001 after all, short of connecting a bunch of diodes in series to lower the voltage? I've read something about using a 4.3V Zener diode, but I'm not quite sure how to connect one for that purpose. Also, there's no electronics parts store in my town, and buying just one diode online might turn out to be a bit costly. I might be able to scavenge one, but I'm not sure how to recognize it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any suggestions?

 (still looking for a 5 pin Stax plug, BTW)

 Ellen_

 


 wall-wart power supply voltages are usually fudged - an approximation at best unless the original was known to be regulated. I would wager to guess that the voltages you're seeing are similar to what you'd see with the original Stax power supply. 

 I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## jcn3

well, i've got about 30 hours on my sr-404s and i must say that i'm thrilled. my stax system is definitely a significant keeper for the type of music that i listen to. here are my impressions:

sr-404s
 well, these phones have definitely lived up to their billing. on the plus side, they're incredibly comfortable and the weight is light enough that you'd never get tired of having them on your head. the cable is long and very flexible. on the negative side, they are probably the ugliest headphones on your head i've ever seen -- do NOT wear these in public! the housing is also incredibly flimsy -- stax probably bought the plastic pieces for $2 tops.

srm-007t
 i bought my amp used (circa 2001). this amp is beautiful because of its simple sophisticated lines. on the inside, the layout is practical and straightforward. the stock tubes are non-branded -- see pic below. _if you know what brand they are, please let me know (i'm curious)._

 the weight is about as expected and the build quality seems very good. i was surprised at the depth of the unit -- it is not something you can just stack on top of your cdp. i'm going to have to rethink the current location of my gear.

 i checked the bias on the tubes and they were pretty good -- just a few small adjustments.

pics
 Stax Gear: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14278493@N07/1581961615
 007t inside: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14278493@N07/1581961627
 tubes: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14278493@N07/1581961663

sound
 the sr-404s have definitely changed over the last 30 hours. out of the box, the promise was there, but the bass was muddy and the treble was not very extended. after 30 hours, they definitely have balanced out and extended. we'll see how it goes over the next several days.

 i tend to listen to smaller, acoustic pieces ranging from jazz to classical to rock to country. my impressions of the overall system are:

 * everything sounds like it is supposed to! this is something that is not easily accomplished! in my experience (mostly dynamic headphone/amp combos in the $1300 range), something is always a little off. with this system, i'm hard pressed. on "memphis" on lyle lovett's _joshua judges ruth_, the piano should sound carnival-like. the 404/007t combo nails this -- the piano is alive! symbals sound like the real thing and have the texture and decay that is usually missing. on acoustic guitars, you can get all the subleties of the string picking and you can hear the strings resonating with the body. check out "signe" on eric clapton's _mtv unplugged_.

 * incredible detail! on larger pieces, systems often lose the distinct sounds, blurring everything. my favorite track for this is "church" on _joshua judges ruth _-- the choir in the song is filled with wonderful, distinct voices. with the 404/007t combo, every voice is detailed and perfectly placed in the soundstage. if you've heard it, you know diana krall's _live in paris _is an absolutely brilliant album and incredibly recorded (like all krall's stuff). check out "the look of love" and listen to diana -- you can hear every detail in her voice and tell when she's really using her diaphragm to provide the richness and texture in her voice."

 * very fast and dynamic! i'm a big rickie lee jones fan and hidden on _girl at her volcano _(i have a wonderful japan import recording) is the best rendition of "under the boardwalk" you'll ever hear. the band is playing in such a way that all the instruments sound very crisp (eliminating the decay). it also has sections where the dynamics peak suddenly (and drop suddenly). the 404/007t combo handles these with flying colors -- it gives me goosebumps.

 * don't tell me the bass isn't good! first, i will admit that the impact of the bass isn't as good as some the better dynamic phones. however, i did find the bass to be deep, accurate, and tight. listen to "church" again -- there are some wonderful bass and drum lines in there. they aren't very complex, so it makes for a good test of the depth, accuracy, and impact of the bass. the 404/007t combo passed with flying colors on the depth and accuracy, and wasn't bad on the impact scale.

 * soundstage is seamless, wide, and deep. the 404/007t combo sounds so realistic and effortless. the 007t doesn't have crossfeed, but you don't need it. nothing about this system sounds like two speakers, one in each ear. voices and instruments are placed in the soundstage and stay solidly there. the depth of the soundstage is also very good. again, check on "signe" on _mtv unplugged _-- the wood block is right of center and way back, just like it's supposed to be.

 after hundreds of pages in the two stax threads, maybe this isn't anything new to you. but let me tell you, it's new to me. there's no looking back -- i'm a stax guy through and through.


----------



## webbie64

Jcn3,

 Thanks for sharing (and therefore remind us all of) that wonderful initial joy of finally gaining the incredible electrostatic headphone experience.

 Keep listening, keep enjoying, particularly as your collection becomes 'new' all over for you again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As you can tell from these threads, there are nuances to be discovered but I agree that the dynamic world is not one easilly revisited (except for portable IEMs, and only then for their isolation - we need an isolated electrostatic!).

 If it doesn't have the speed, detail and accuracy of electrostatics it seems more like a rendition of music rather than an actual experience of music (FMAL).

 Have fun!


----------



## spritzer

Great impressions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Once you go planar there is really no way back. If you value the clarity and ease of the electrostatic there is nothing that can replace them except maybe a better amp and new phones.


----------



## Kang

You've begun a lifelong addiction. Enjoy every moment of being hooked on Stax!


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wall-wart power supply voltages are usually fudged - an approximation at best unless the original was known to be regulated. I would wager to guess that the voltages you're seeing are similar to what you'd see with the original Stax power supply. 

 I wouldn't worry about it._

 

OK, now I'm officially and thoroughly confuzzled... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Do you mean to say that, when Stax supposedly recommends no more than 4.5V, they _actually_ mean "no more than 4.5V rated voltage for an unregulated supply"? Has anyone ever measured the voltage of the original Stax PSU for the SRM-001 under load? (can be easily measured between the + terminal for the outside battery, and the sleeve of the DC plug, when not fully inserted)

 Ellen


----------



## Petyot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, i've got about 30 hours on my sr-404s and i must say that i'm thrilled. my stax system is definitely a significant keeper for the type of music that i listen to. 
 ...
 after hundreds of pages in the two stax threads, maybe this isn't anything new to you. but let me tell you, it's new to me. there's no looking back -- i'm a stax guy through and through._

 

Very nice review! Thanks for sharing your impression.

 The Stax sound is simply amazing! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pierre


----------



## jcn3

thanks to spritzer and sacdlover, the non-branded tubes in my srm-007t have been identified as ge 6fq7s.

 i also have a set of raytheon japan-made 6cg7s that have the shorter plates -- i read that these are supposed to be very good, but haven't tried them out yet.

 which of these sets of tubes is preferred?


----------



## spritzer

I like the Japanese tubes the best and of them the Toshiba's are the best. They were used by Stax to voice the design back in 1968 and they were shipped with them for a long time.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, i've got about 30 hours on my sr-404s and i must say that i'm thrilled. my stax system is definitely a significant keeper for the type of music that i listen to. here are my impressions:

 *snip*_

 

Great impressions! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Welcome to the club, and may you never leave us...


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, now I'm officially and thoroughly confuzzled... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Do you mean to say that, when Stax supposedly recommends no more than 4.5V, they actually mean "no more than 4.5V rated voltage for an unregulated supply"? Has anyone ever measured the voltage of the original Stax PSU for the SRM-001 under load? (can be easily measured between the + terminal for the outside battery, and the sleeve of the DC plug, when not fully inserted)

 Ellen_

 

Does Stax actually say "No More Than 4.5 Volts!!!"? 

 Because usually, unless the external power supply is known to be regulated, the circuit is either internally regulated or has some amount of wiggle-room in it's voltage tolerance.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does Stax actually say "No More Than 4.5 Volts!!!"? 

 Because usually, unless the external power supply is known to be regulated, the circuit is either internally regulated or has some amount of wiggle-room in it's voltage tolerance._

 

Actually, the rigid 4.5V limit is hearsay (or, in this case, readsay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) :
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *E.B.M.Head* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_4.5 Volt is the maximun you should use with the SRM-001 (otherwise the unit might get damaged acording to Stax)_

 

Mine didn't come with documentation, so I can't be sure, but I'd rather not take the risk. And I didn't see any obvious voltage regulating circuitry on the SRM-001's PCB.

 Ellen


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, the rigid 4.5V limit is hearsay (or, in this case, readsay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) :
 Mine didn't come with documentation, so I can't be sure, but I'd rather not take the risk. And I didn't see any obvious voltage regulating circuitry on the SRM-001's PCB.

 Ellen_

 

Just use any 4.5 V, 300-1000 mA power supply with correct polarity. I found one around the house and it works great. They can dip or spike around 4.5 +-2 V, looks that the amp is designed to work within these limits.


----------



## mercman

jcn3, let me know when you are ready for my SRM007TII. We hate seeing you content!

 Enjoy!


----------



## jcn3

mercman -- i thought you had plans for that amp (at least after you get your kgbh se)! anyway, i'm thoroughly enjoying the amp -- thanks a bunch! i even checked the bias last night to make sure it was just right.


----------



## mercman

jcn3, I was going to give the amp to my brother, but the darn depth of the amp won't fit his table. I guess I'll sell it when the KGBH SE arrives. Hopefully, in January.


----------



## jcn3

mercman -- please let me know. i'd love to have first dibs! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mercman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jcn3, I was going to give the amp to my brother, but the darn depth of the amp won't fit his table. I guess I'll sell it when the KGBH SE arrives. Hopefully, in January._


----------



## mercman

Will do!


----------



## Tachikoma

Ooooo SRM-T1W in the house 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Why did stax have to put the voltage switcher THAT far out of reach... 

 The tubes in there look like toshiba 6CG7s, guess I'm in luck


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ooooo SRM-T1W in the house 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Why did stax have to put the voltage switcher THAT far out of reach... 

 The tubes in there look like toshiba 6CG7s, guess I'm in luck 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats on the amp and the right tubes. My T1W sounds so horribly etched and veiled compared to my T1 but it could be tube choice. Damn GE's


----------



## derekbmn

Off topic (again)- Where's Carl ??? Last post almost 2 months ago.


----------



## facelvega

do we have a general policy now of what would be a non-inflated price for a pro-bias SRD unit? I'm on a slow search for one, but I don't want to contribute to the pricing bubble madness.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Off topic (again)- Where's Carl ??? Last post almost 2 months ago._

 

He's gone joined a commune and is currently researching how to use his electrostatic knowledge for good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do we have a general policy now of what would be a non-inflated price for a pro-bias SRD unit? I'm on a slow search for one, but I don't want to contribute to the pricing bubble madness._

 

The price is at about 200$ for a sane purchase. There aren't that many out there and I think 200$ is more then fair for the convenience.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do we have a general policy now of what would be a non-inflated price for a pro-bias SRD unit? I'm on a slow search for one, but I don't want to contribute to the pricing bubble madness._

 

Got a normal-bias unit? you could add another diode and capacitor to the bias supply.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a normal-bias unit? you could add another diode and capacitor to the bias supply._

 

and a hole through the connector


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and a hole through the connector 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

well yeah


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and a hole through the connector 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think you'd need to plug the center hole so you don't blow up your low bias cans.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you'd need to plug the center hole so you don't blow up your low bias cans._

 

Which none of the manufacturers do when they are using the crappy WPI connectors. Well you'll only fry the right element but the left one is safe...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a normal-bias unit? you could add another diode and capacitor to the bias supply._

 

Here it is again: making it sound so bloody easy!

 Here's the deal: somebody who can do this for me gets a free weekend in my house near the Ashdown Forest, England (!).


----------



## jcn3

this is a non-valued added post, but i can't resist . . .

 my sr-404s now have 100 straight hours of playing on them -- they have become so much more coherent, powerful, and detailed. true stax love . . .

 i was just listening to "Handy Man" from James Taylor _Live_ and i had to stop was i was doing, close my eyes and listen. i was completely engulfed by the sound -- by far the best rendition of that song on any system i've ever heard.

 just had to share . . .


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this is a non-valued added post, but i can't resist . . .

 my sr-404s now have 100 straight hours of playing on them -- they have become so much more coherent, powerful, and detailed. true stax love . . .

 i was just listening to "Handy Man" from James Taylor Live and i had to stop was i was doing, close my eyes and listen. i was completely engulfed by the sound -- by far the best rendition of that song on any system i've ever heard.

 just had to share . . ._

 

Sounds like they have broken in a bit, and perhaps you adapting to their sound.
 They sure are a great pair of headphones. Especially in their price range.

 Enjoy!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here it is again: making it sound so bloody easy!

 Here's the deal: somebody who can do this for me gets a free weekend in my house near the Ashdown Forest, England (!)._

 

It really is that easy. You need a few 0.1uF 1Kv caps, 1 few 1N4007 diodes, two 81v 1w zener diodes and a few resistors. You construct it on a perf board or something similar. The layout can be the same as the schematic. I'll try to build a few next week if I can find all of the parts for it.


----------



## tyre

Ugh, I could shoot myself for missing this...

 Lambda Sigs + SRM-T1 for $325
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....oni&1197915292

 edit: There's also a used 4070 for $1050 if anyone's interested.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....oni&1197782079


----------



## spacemanspliff

$325!! damn I am sick to my stomach now too thanks!


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$325!! damn I am sick to my stomach now too thanks!_

 

That hurts, but it also gives me hope.


----------



## Faust2D

Got my SR-303 today, and after a few hours of burn in, all I got to say is: *niiicceee*. Very similar to SR-Lambda, but even more detailed and they have more of that deep bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Within a month or so I became fully Staxified. Now I got SRD-6SB, SRM-1/MK-2, SR-Lambda, SR-303 and SR-001 MK2 system. Oh boy, this is like an exotic disease.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ... Oh boy, this is like an exotic disease. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Better than bad sex.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ugh, I could shoot myself for missing this...

 Lambda Sigs + SRM-T1 for $325
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....oni&1197915292

 edit: There's also a used 4070 for $1050 if anyone's interested.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....oni&1197782079_

 

Both seems to be great deals!
 Somebody buy the 4070 before its too late...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my SR-303 today, and after a few hours of burn in, all I got to say is: *niiicceee*. Very similar to SR-Lambda, but even more detailed and they have more of that deep bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Within a month or so I became fully Staxified. Now I got SRD-6SB, SRM-1/MK-2, SR-Lambda, SR-303 and SR-001 MK2 system. Oh boy, this is like an exotic disease. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hehe, another one bites the dust...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It really is that easy. You need a few 0.1uF 1Kv caps, 1 few 1N4007 diodes, two 81v 1w zener diodes and a few resistors. You construct it on a perf board or something similar. The layout can be the same as the schematic. I'll try to build a few next week if I can find all of the parts for it._

 

You're serious? That would be great! (On the other hand, the last time this came up, a few days back, you warned me off on the grounds that ignoramuses such as me shouldn't mess around with potentially dangerous voltages!)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey, quick ? can I use a NAD stereo amplifier with my SRD-7? It is rated 150watts x 2. I don't want to fry the SRD-7 obviously lol.


----------



## Tachikoma

Yes, but be very careful with the volume pot. Even my 22 WPC pioneer SA-6200 has too much power for my GPs


----------



## spacemanspliff

Never mind then. I have a 30wpc Parasound amp that works fine. I have enough outputs on my Sony 1000ESD Pre to use two amps. One for speakers and one for headspeakers. I was just thinking of selling the Parasound Pre and amp together.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my SR-303 today, and after a few hours of burn in, all I got to say is: *niiicceee*. Very similar to SR-Lambda, but even more detailed and they have more of that deep bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Wait until you really burn them in! They become more extended, better balanced and more coherent, and I guess also fuller in the bass, but I'm not sure. 80 - 100 hours is a minimum. If you don't find their tonal response objectionable in your system, all is good. Even better! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Oh, and I guess you know by now: Warming up for 30 - 60 minutes is important for charging (resulting in better coherence, which in turn translates into more musicality for my ears) and the best sound seems to be achieved after they play some music for a while - 5 minutes off the head at slightly higher volume than normal might be enough, again I'm not sure though...

 Enjoy!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're serious? That would be great! (On the other hand, the last time this came up, a few days back, you warned me off on the grounds that ignoramuses such as me shouldn't mess around with potentially dangerous voltages!)_

 

There is always a risk surrounding live AC work. If you use a proper fuse and pay attention to what you are doing you'll be fine. I've been sapped a few times over the years and once by a 380v 100A line that goes to one of our ovens. I was numb for a while but it didn't travel very far. 

 The build is very simple and consists of a few wires and the components laid out like they are on the schematic.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hehe, another one bites the dust... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Stax works for about 70% of the music that I listen to, now for the other 30% I need to find that killer dynamic headphones for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's never easy this headphone game.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax works for about 70% of the music that I listen to, now for the other 30% I need to find that killer dynamic headphones for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's never easy this headphone game. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You could always just get the SR-007 and a very good amp...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could always just get the SR-007 and a very good amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't know, don't know. I still listen to some old hard rock, metal, gabber, digital hardcore and grind and it does not sound that hot on Stax. Actually Stax makes it sound bad, because it is recorded bad and should sound bad, but (and a big but) I want it to sound good. I need a real "kick me in the balls", yet forgiving can for that. But I don't like Grado sound at all, so I am at a loss here.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't know, don't know. I still listen to some old hard rock, metal, gabber, digital hardcore and grind and it does not sound that hot on Stax. Actually Stax makes it sound bad, because it is recorded bad and should sound bad, but (and a big but) I want it to sound good. I need a real "kick me in the balls", yet forgiving can for that. But I don't like Grado sound at all, so I am at a loss here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Buy a Suprex 'stat and mod it. There are should be some around in thrift stores and the like since they were made in NY. The thicker diaphragm in a sturdy enclosure makes for very good rock phones


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't know, don't know. I still listen to some old hard rock, metal, gabber, digital hardcore and grind and it does not sound that hot on Stax. Actually Stax makes it sound bad, because it is recorded bad and should sound bad, but (and a big but) I want it to sound good. I need a real "kick me in the balls", yet forgiving can for that. But I don't like Grado sound at all, so I am at a loss here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You didn't like the K340 for this? No K340 and no Grado, eh, but it has to be dynamic? Well, perhaps an old-series DT990? Tough when you've eliminated the customary best options. A Goldring?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You didn't like the K340 for this? No K340 and no Grado, eh, but it has to be dynamic? Well, perhaps an old-series DT990? Tough when you've eliminated the customary best options. A Goldring?_

 

K340 was very good for this type of thing, however the bass reverberation was killing me. I want lots of impact in the bass and midrange for my grind core, but still want it to be warm, not that in your face Grado sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was thinking about DT990, A900 sounds nice with this kind of music, but to cold. Do you think A250 or maybe HD650 will fit the bill?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Suprex is very intriguing, I almost got it on ebay the other day.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Suprex is very intriguing, I almost got it on ebay the other day._

 

They can rock but they sure as hell aren't pretty.


----------



## Duggeh

Pretty like a freight train carrying sheet glass crashing into an orphanage.


----------



## Faust2D

I like that iron-maiden for your head look. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Duggeh, do you think Ergo 2 will be good headphones for metal and rock?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They can rock but they sure as hell aren't pretty. _

 

I know what I'll be keeping my eye out for. I think they'd look good-- if they were a vacuum cleaner, or a wiper blade relay.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Do you think A250 or maybe HD650 will fit the bill?_

 

Nope. A250, too revealing and merciless with a bad recording. HD650, not a good fit for the music.

 ps, might want to start a new thread for this discussion. The Stax mafia don't like it when their thread gets hijacked...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like that iron-maiden for your head look. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

They aren't really that uncomfortable. They are no Lambda though so mine aren't used that much and now that I've let them charge for a couple of hours there seems to be a channel imbalance... damn 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Since the drivers are carbon copies of the Stax design this is bound to happen. I always have my open backed SR-Lambda and SRA-3S combo for some vintage rock out fun.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh boy, this is like an exotic disease. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

...and a really great disease!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax works for about 70% of the music that I listen to, now for the other 30% I need to find that killer dynamic headphones for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's never easy this headphone game. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Put a defeatable equalizer in the system to cut the treble and pump up the bass. There will be some loss of clarity but then that will also happen with dynamics. 

 Pop/rock may also need more attention to power, use a better power cord and maybe a contact enhancer on the plugs and ic's.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax works for about 70% of the music that I listen to, now for the other 30% I need to find that killer dynamic headphones for a good price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's never easy this headphone game. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I think that the Koss ESP-950 and Stax SR-003's driven by my SRM-007t sound great with old rock recordings. More forgiving, dynamic and punchy in the bass. But still the stat clarity. They both play loud without the Lambda glare.

 AudioD


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like that iron-maiden for your head look. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Duggeh, do you think Ergo 2 will be good headphones for metal and rock? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I dont listen to metal, but given your qualms over other dynamics thusfar, I do not think that the Ergo 2 will be any magic pill.


----------



## luvdunhill

Duggeh:

 Just curious, what is your favorite can for classical? I think you mentioned this in another thread


----------



## Duggeh

Depends a lot on the kind of classical, and on CD/LP.

 LP classical is 99% speakers for me. 1% Jecklin Float 2. My classical LPs are all pretty shoddy and the big trio are too resolving of the pops ticks and surface noise.

 On digital playback, on headphones I guess that the AMT gets as much headtime as the other headphones put together. There are certain albums or pieces that are defo better on other headphones though. AMT rules for violin/piano pieces for example. But the O2 rules for the 1812. The H2 for Mythodea. The AMT gets more lost than the O2 the more bass, impact, and multi-tonal complexity you throw at it. It's an amping issue. The AMT teases you with how good it wants to sound.

 Related to classical, music like Ludovico Einaudi or Ronald Binge then the AMT as well. I do very much love how it does piano.


 I would guess that music under the blanket category of classical accounts for perhaps 15-20% of my listening.


----------



## Faust2D

If you don't mind me asking, what music in your collection sounds good with Omega2?


----------



## Duggeh

All of it. There's nothing that doesn't. If I had to pick one to live with from the O2 H2 and AMT, it'd be the O2. Its a question which I have given great thought to. Indeed I have given consideration to selling the AMT on a couple of occasions when I've needed or wanted some cash.

 If you mean "for what music to i always reach for the O2 first" then again its anything, unless I'm in the mood for a different sound. I mention the AMTs strengths to my ears in the context of classical, however that isn't to say that the O2 doesn't play those same things well to my ears also. I can be very whimsical about which headphone I pick up sometimes. What's nice is to have the choice available to me at all.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you don't mind me asking, what music in your collection sounds good with Omega2?_

 

Pretty much all of it.
 But they really shine on female vocales. Katie Melua, Christel Alsos, Kari Bremnes and Diana Krall are simply awesome on the SR-007.


----------



## ferraro25

Would an SRS-2050II be an "upgrade" from a K501 powered by the headphone amp of the E-Mu 0404 USB? I want more detail, texture, better instrument separation, and a more realistic sound. The amount of bass on the K501 is just about right for me, but wouldn't mind more.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would an SRS-2050II be an "upgrade" from a K501 powered by the headphone amp of the E-Mu 0404 USB? I want more detail, texture, better instrument separation, and a more realistic sound. The amount of bass on the K501 is just about right for me, but wouldn't mind more._

 

Short answer is: perhaps.
 I switched from K501 run directly from the CD player's RCA outputs (via a mediocre adapter with potentiometers) - don't laugh, the sound was pretty goodto Stax 3030. Better detail and especially instrument separation for sure, even larger soundstage, good bass and treble extension and above all a sense of easiness, playing even the most complex symphonic passages with a hand behind the back. I'm not sure on the "more realistic sound", though, it depends a lot on partnering equipment and on recording. Some acoustic instruments may sound a bit more realistic on K501, especially piano IMO, albeit less detailed than on the Stax. I'd say the Stax is more picky with the source than the K501, especially in terms of tonal response. Overall, the 3030 combo is still significantly better, and the 2050 is said to be not too far behind. Another plus is that the Stax are not an annoying downgrade from K501 in any area, which is always a risk when moving from a sound signature to another (happened to me when I tried to move from K501 to HD600).


----------



## ferraro25

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Short answer is: perhaps.
 I switched from K501 run directly from the CD player's RCA outputs (via a mediocre adapter with potentiometers) - don't laugh, the sound was pretty goodto Stax 3030. Better detail and especially instrument separation for sure, even larger soundstage, good bass and treble extension and above all a sense of easiness, playing even the most complex symphonic passages with a hand behind the back. I'm not sure on the "more realistic sound", though, it depends a lot on partnering equipment and on recording. Some acoustic instruments may sound a bit more realistic on K501, especially piano IMO, albeit less detailed than on the Stax. I'd say the Stax is more picky with the source than the K501, especially in terms of tonal response. Overall, the 3030 combo is still significantly better, and the 2050 is said to be not too far behind. Another plus is that the Stax are not an annoying downgrade from K501 in any area, which is always a risk when moving from a sound signature to another (happened to me when I tried to move from K501 to HD600)._

 

Sounds good. Thanks for the comments.

 I don't really know what realistic sound is from experience (at least in terms of live instruments), so it could go either way for me.

 I'm going to be keeping the K501 so I still have a decent dynamic headphone to use when/if I want. I hope I won't feel the need to use it at all after getting the 2050II, though.

 Will be buying the 2050II within a month or so and will post my thoughts on it after a couple of hours of use. Will be my first electrostatic setup; very interested to hear the electrostatic sound. Buying from an authorized Stax dealer in the U.S. (link) so I (hopefully) can return it if I don't like it. Would rather pay the extra money than order directly from Japan; I am too lazy/shy to sell anything.

 Edited to add: Reading your review of the 3030 setup right now. Very helpful for me. In particular, extremely good instrument separation is something I've been looking for for a while (and while the K701 has solid separation, the K701 makes voices and [I'm assuming] instruments sound lighter than they should).



*Edited again:* Having typed that about the K701, it looks like the Stax 2050 might have a similar problem in terms of sound balance (reading the 3030 review). Hmm. If someone with experience with the 2050 setup could give me some insight on this, I would appreciate it.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Having typed that about the K701, it looks like the Stax 2050 might have a similar problem in terms of sound balance (reading the 3030 review). Hmm. If someone with experience with the 2050 setup could give me some insight on this, I would appreciate it._

 

Could be. It's a bit silly to recommend my own setup, but really, why don't you try to find a used Cambridge D300 player? I've seen them going for ~ $100, which makes it a no brainer afaik and it's a great match for both the Stax and the K501, addressing the slightly thin midrange problem of the Stax and the light bass problem of the K501. I'm not sure the D500 and the D500SE have the same sound signature,but you could try http://cgi.ebay.com/Cambridge-Audio-...QQcmdZViewItem 
 or 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ksid=p3907.m29
 or check if this is still available.


----------



## naamanf

Has anyone heard the Omega with the SRD-7SBMk2? Would this with a decent amp be a better option than a dedicated amp?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the Omega with the SRD-7SBMk2? Would this with a decent amp be a better option than a dedicated amp?_

 

I have a couple of AC MK2's and they drive the SR-007 a bit better then the Stax amps but still no match for the after market amps. There just isn't enough power that they can put out which is mostly limited by the size of the transformers.


----------



## esuko

This morning is for monday quite good

 7 am got delivery: Stax SRS-2020 Basic System II
 8 am went to get 20 CDs of Puffy, Maria Hamada and Misia from post 

 Now i'm enjoying japanese music with japanese headphones.
 Where do i sing for Stax club membership


----------



## ueyteuor

hey guys, what are your thoughts on the SR-5 Gold..

 how does it compare to other stax models??


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *esuko* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This morning is for monday quite good

 7 am got delivery: Stax SRS-2020 Basic System II
 8 am went to get 20 CDs of Puffy, Maria Hamada and Misia from post 

 Now i'm enjoying japanese music with japanese headphones.
 Where do i sing for Stax club membership
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats on becoming a member of Stax! No go out and by some more Stax phones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys, what are your thoughts on the SR-5 Gold..

 how does it compare to other stax models??_

 

They sound pretty similar to the SR-X Mk3 and SR-Gamma as they all use the same drivers. The SR-5's have more bass but it is bloated in comparison and they aren't as transparent as its siblings. It's a good headphone but the prices have been a bit absurd lately.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sound pretty similar to the SR-X Mk3 and SR-Gamma as they all use the same drivers. The SR-5's have more bass but it is bloated in comparison and they aren't as transparent as its siblings. It's a good headphone but the prices have been a bit absurd lately._

 

so would they impress me, since im new to electrostatic.. are they worth buying , or should i wait and get a better deal maybe on lambda pros or 404s?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so would they impress me, since im new to electrostatic.. are they worth buying , or should i wait and get a better deal maybe on lambda pros or 404s?_

 

They are worth buying thats for sure but don't pay more the 200$.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are worth buying thats for sure but don't pay more the 200$._

 

ok, ill see how much they go for.. thanks!


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sound pretty similar to the SR-X Mk3 and SR-Gamma as they all use the same drivers. The SR-5's have more bass but it is bloated in comparison and they aren't as transparent as its siblings. It's a good headphone but the prices have been a bit absurd lately._

 

Haha, didn't one go to around $500 or so? That was just absurd.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha, didn't one go to around $500 or so? That was just absurd. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It was 400$ plus... just insane. I'll have to admit though that I payed quite a lot for mine but that was NOS and came with a SRD-7 Mk2 and a plastic container marked Stax. It was the SR-5 monitor system only available in Japan but it was less then 400$... and I'm a crazy collector.


----------



## Veniogenesis

It's time to celebrate. I have reacquired some Stax after a few horrible months without any. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The experience was almost... criminal.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's time to celebrate. I have reacquired some Stax after a few horrible months without any. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The experience was almost... criminal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So what did you get... spill it!!!!


----------



## Elephas




----------



## spritzer

You need to buy some more... c'mon it's not like you don't want to...


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

You, my man are SICK.... can I be your friend?


----------



## naamanf

I just vomited in my mouth a bit. 

 So should I get a HE60 or an 02?


----------



## Faust2D

Nice collection there. How do you like that woody Lambda? Does it sound any better than the regular one?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to buy some more... c'mon it's not like you don't want to... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yes, sir, Stax Mafia Wartime Consigliere, sir.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You, my man are SICK.... can I be your friend? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, not until I find an SR-Omega. Then I'll give away everything to a special friend.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just vomited in my mouth a bit. 

 So should I get a HE60 or an 02?_

 

Both sound very good. The HE60 is brighter, the O2 has more bass quantity and better imaging, both driven by a KGSS. I would pick O2 over HE60.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice collection there. How do you like that woody Lambda? Does it sound any better than the regular one?_

 

I've never heard any other Lambdas. Check with the Wartime Consigliere.


----------



## _LN_

Nice, Elephas!

 And to think that some of us can only afford _one_ set of 'stats -- Lambda Nova Classics... 
 Well, two, if you count the SRM-001. Or three, if you count SR-30 electrets. Or five, actually, including the ATH-7 and TK33. Or, maybe six, with the K340...
 But that's all, really!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ellen


----------



## Duggeh

That collection lacks Sigma content.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, sir, Stax Mafia Wartime Consigliere, sir._

 






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, not until I find an SR-Omega. Then I'll give away everything to a special friend._

 

Ahhh the endangered SR-Omega... The last one went for quite a sum. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both sound very good. The HE60 is brighter, the O2 has more bass quantity and better imaging, both driven by a KGSS. I would pick O2 over HE60._

 

I agree but the HE60 is just so much fun to listen to. Flawed but fun would be the best way to describe them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice collection there. How do you like that woody Lambda? Does it sound any better than the regular one?_

 

It will depend on how they are internally. If the driver is securely clamped to the wooden housing then they should sound great.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the Omega with the SRD-7SBMk2? Would this with a decent amp be a better option than a dedicated amp?_

 

I have tried the SR-007 with an SRD-7mk2 (not SB), and very much liked it.
 Used my Doxa 70 Signature MK2 amplifier, which had plenty of power to drive the SR-007. But missed some of the micro-dynamics. That might be amplifier related though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *esuko* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This morning is for monday quite good

 7 am got delivery: Stax SRS-2020 Basic System II
 8 am went to get 20 CDs of Puffy, Maria Hamada and Misia from post 

 Now i'm enjoying japanese music with japanese headphones.
 Where do i sing for Stax club membership
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations, and welcome to the club. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRS-2020 is a great little system, which will keep you occupied until upgradeitis hits you.. he he

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's time to celebrate. I have reacquired some Stax after a few horrible months without any. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The experience was almost... criminal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice!
 Care to share which Stax you reacquired 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Excellent 'stat collection.

 I see the following:
 * Stax SR-007
 * Stax 4070
 * Headphile SR-Lambda Pro
 * Airbow SR-SC1
 * Sennheiser HE90
 * Sennheiser HE60

 By the way. Care sharing where you got hold of the boxes and bags you use for the Lambda's? Cause I have been looking for something similar...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahhh the endangered SR-Omega... The last one went for quite a sum._

 

USD 960 to be precise...
eBay.com -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I did not have the nerve to bid on these.


----------



## Duggeh

^ I asked him about local pickup and received no reply, that along with the too familiar photos set me off.


----------



## Faust2D

This looked like a scam to me, if it was not, it was a good deal.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USD 960 to be precise...
eBay.com -> Stax Omega 1 headphone

 I did not have the nerve to bid on these. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That one is a scam, no doubt about it. The pictures are of no.249 which one of out own owns. 

 The one I was talking about sold for 312000YJP with one driver starting to show signs of failure.


----------



## Elephas

I emailed that zero feedback seller about the SR-Omega. He said he uses the Aristaeus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A Head-Fi member, perhaps? Or at least a lurker.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Care sharing where you got hold of the boxes and bags you use for the Lambda's? Cause I have been looking for something similar..._

 

The Airbow and Headphile Lambda Pro are stored in Senn boxes, stolen from the HD650 and HD600.

 The HE60 box is the same as the HD650 box!!


----------



## Elephas

Team Sennheiser is attacking Team Stax! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What should we do?!


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Team Sennheiser is attacking Team Stax! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What should we do?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Ok, you head off the frontal assault and I'll out flank them from the rear and take out the HE90 and HE60? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 To make sure they don't re-group for another attempt, I will exile the 2 to Singapore where they'll stay locked up and guarded 24x7 on my head. No way will they get out of my sights! Erm, if that's fine with you...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I emailed that zero feedback seller about the SR-Omega. He said he uses the Aristaeus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A Head-Fi member, perhaps? Or at least a lurker._

 

He could be a lurker but those pictures are old and extra headbands are very rare. Did you get any pictures from him?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Airbow and Headphile Lambda Pro are stored in Senn boxes, stolen from the HD650 and HD600.

 The HE60 box is the same as the HD650 box!!_

 

Damn, I need a HE60 box. Time to bug the distributor here to order one for me...


----------



## billinkansas

The Stax Mafia will be on this - nothing personal, just business.

 They have pictures ... of 650's with country music going through them.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He could be a lurker but those pictures are old and extra headbands are very rare. Did you get any pictures from him?_

 

No, he didn't send any extra photos so I didn't bid.

 You're right about the HE60, it is a great-sounding, fun headphone. I would rank it above the 4070 and SR-SC1. As clear and detailed as those two are, I think the HE60 is more detailed and treble notes are even crisper.

 The HE60's bright and fast sound can make it seem more open and airy than the O2. The O2 is more refined, though.


----------



## naamanf

Well it looks like I will stick with my original plan of getting a 02 or 02MkII. Still need to find a amp that won't break the bank. The Army doesn't pay THAT good.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Team Sennheiser is attacking Team Stax! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What should we do?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Nice floor! How many $ per sq ft?


----------



## esuko

Hi

 After listening this SRS-2020 basic system II whole day i'm realy suprised by the bass output of this combo. 
 This system realy goes loud, plenty enought for me. 
 Guess have to be carefull with the volume. Music realy comes unstrained and energetic, definetly not a dull performer.


----------



## spritzer

This whole Stax=no bass couldn't be more wrong. The Sennheiser stats on the other hand...


----------



## Faust2D

Just to add my 5 cents to this. I was listening to Laibach - "Jesus Christ Superstars" last night with my SRM1 & SR-303, and boy was it spectacular. I did not even think about the headphones, midrange, bass and all this crap. For nicely recorded albums my Stax system works 99% for me, it's some of the badly recorded music that need that other forgiving headphones.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This whole Stax=no bass couldn't be more wrong. The Sennheiser stats on the other hand... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Just clarifying for new readers, as has been pointed out before - Senns also have bass. Just...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE60 is brighter, the O2 has more bass quantity._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just clarifying for new readers, as has been pointed out before - Senns also have bass. Just..._

 

It was also meant as a joke. I quite like the He60 bass as it does so many things right compared to the HE90.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just clarifying for new readers, as has been pointed out before - Senns also have bass. Just..._

 

Just... and only just... I wish it extended deeper. It's probably my rig, but it lacks authority IMHO.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just... and only just... I wish it extended deeper. It's probably my rig, but it lacks authority IMHO._

 

It's fine on my T1 and T1W but it could be your source or cables.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's fine on my T1 and T1W but it could be your source or cables._

 

Could be. It's sufficient for 99% of classical music (the 1% being certain organ works), but simply doesn't cut it for a lot of rock music. The bass drums/guitars aren't conveyed with enough power and bottom end extension. Luckily, I don't listen to rock as much as I listen to classical. It's a real shame since the rest of the frequency range is such impeccably rendered.

 EDIT: swapping out rca cleartops for raytheons helped things a bit. Now it sounds smoother and less "etched".


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be. It's sufficient for 99% of classical music (the 1% being certain organ works), but simply doesn't cut it for a lot of rock music. The bass drums/guitars aren't conveyed with enough power and bottom end extension. Luckily, I don't listen to rock as much as I listen to classical. It's a real shame since the rest of the frequency range is such impeccably rendered.

 EDIT: swapping out rca cleartops for raytheons helped things a bit. Now it sounds smoother and less "etched"._

 

I mainly listen to rock and their lack of bass doesn't really bother me. It is rolled off but its quick and clean which is quite rare.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I mainly listen to rock and their lack of bass doesn't really bother me. It is rolled off but its quick and clean which is quite rare._

 

It's mainly the roll-off that bothers me. I just prefer the bass of, say, the Beyer DT770, Stax SR-007 or TakeT H2. Anyway, I only listen to rock in a mobile setting and my IEMs have great bass
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not much interesting Stax gear on eBay these days


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's mainly the roll-off that bothers me. I just prefer the bass of, say, the Beyer DT770, Stax SR-007 or TakeT H2. Anyway, I only listen to rock in a mobile setting and my IEMs have great bass
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not much interesting Stax gear on eBay these days
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah it is really slim pickings these days. We need a huge bidding war to get the blood flowing...


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah it is really slim pickings these days. We need a huge bidding war to get the blood flowing... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Your wish has been granted... Head's up people!!!
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....lan&1193709136
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....ran&1193706049


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah it is really slim pickings these days. We need a huge bidding war to get the blood flowing... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Your wish has been granted (not by me though)... Head's up people!!!
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....lan&1193709136
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....ran&1193706049


----------



## spritzer

Just saw those. Should make somebody very happy.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Haha wow, I wish I could bid on those. Too bad I'm too poor for that right now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So as to what Staxes I'm getting, they're nothing special unfortunately. Just two Lambdas (PSig, NSig). I also have a SR-X MKIII lying around but no longer have an amp for that. Anyone want to give me a heads up as to how the NSig and PSig compare?


----------



## audiod

I was told by my source that the new SR-007mk2 in black only will be in the USA by the end of October or the first few days of November and I am promised a set from the first shipment. Reports from Japan is that there is a small improvement in the bass clarity. Retail pricing should be about the same but may be slightly higher. Another interesting note is that Stax Japan is going to recommend the SRM-727II as it’s first choice for amplification. This is over the SRM-007tII that was the top recommendation for the SR-007.

 I look forward to comparing them with my SR-007 driven by my 717, 007t and 727II (I have access too).

 The wait is almost over!


----------



## ericj

So the vintage Marantz community is going nuts over that SE-1. Holy cow.


----------



## spacemanspliff

It probably won't go over well here but I am liking my SR-Lambdas with my 12" sub for Digitally Imported right now. Amazing how seamless the sub is blending in now that I have it placed and tweaked properly. Gives the music "club impact" without actually hearing the sub. I feel it and hear it but it seems like it is just the Headspeakers lol. crazy


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This looked like a scam to me, if it was not, it was a good deal._

 

True!
 It really looked like a scam to me. Zero feedback sellers, picture(s) used before, rare extra headband, etc.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Airbow and Headphile Lambda Pro are stored in Senn boxes, stolen from the HD650 and HD600.

 The HE60 box is the same as the HD650 box!!_

 

Aha! Then I will try to track down a couple of those. Guess I can ask a local store/distributor to order a pair for me...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Team Sennheiser is attacking Team Stax! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What should we do?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Sell the Sennheisers and buy an SR-Omega! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ...or maybe not.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your wish has been granted... Head's up people!!!
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....lan&1193709136
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/auc....ran&1193706049_

 

These could turn into some really nice deals. If not advertising them here will drive up the price that is.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told by my source that the new SR-007mk2 in black only will be in the USA by the end of October or the first few days of November and I am promised a set from the first shipment. Reports from Japan is that there is a small improvement in the bass clarity. Retail pricing should be about the same but may be slightly higher. Another interesting note is that Stax Japan is going to recommend the SRM-727II as it’s first choice for amplification. This is over the SRM-007tII that was the top recommendation for the SR-007.

 I look forward to comparing them with my SR-007 driven by my 717, 007t and 727II (I have access too).

 The wait is almost over!_

 

The first impressions I've heard is that the difference is relatively minor so I might hold off getting a pair. I need a new source more then I need a new SR-007 but I'll most likely break down and have one sent over... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the vintage Marantz community is going nuts over that SE-1. Holy cow._

 

You are joking, right? While they are better then some of the other OEM Stax phones (slightly better damping and build) they still sound like a steaming pile of crap.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It probably won't go over well here but I am liking my SR-Lambdas with my 12" sub for Digitally Imported right now. Amazing how seamless the sub is blending in now that I have it placed and tweaked properly. Gives the music "club impact" without actually hearing the sub. I feel it and hear it but it seems like it is just the Headspeakers lol. crazy_

 

I've once done this with my K1000s.
 My neighbors weren't amused.
 It's not easy to locate a sub with a cut off frequency of ~50 Hz and it was never revealed it was me but I had to stop it when I heard that the woman next door couldn't sleep anymore ........


----------



## educator

Is a KGSS switchable from 120 to 240 volts?


----------



## 88Sound

My Omega-II's have recently developed a large channel imbalance. the right channel is much lower in volume than the left. Since I only have 1 electrostatic phone and amp I can't be positive it is the phones. I do know however that it is not the source, cables or tubes which leaves the amp or phones and I strongly suspect the phones.

 These were purchased several years ago, were not purchased in the US, and would be out of warranty anyway.

 Since it looks as though the SR-007 mk2 will be available in the US any day now I would appreciate a recommendation on which US dealer I should go to get a pair.

 Any ideas on what I should do with the old Omega II's. I could send them back to Japan for repair, anyone know how much that would likely cost?

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is a KGSS switchable from 120 to 240 volts?_

 

It should be. Ask Justin if you are referring to a Headamp KGSS. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omega-II's have recently developed a large channel imbalance. the right channel is much lower in volume than the left. Since I only have 1 electrostatic phone and amp I can't be positive it is the phones. I do know however that it is not the source, cables or tubes which leaves the amp or phones and I strongly suspect the phones.

 These were purchased several years ago, were not purchased in the US, and would be out of warranty anyway.

 Since it looks as though the SR-007 mk2 will be available in the US any day now I would appreciate a recommendation on which US dealer I should go to get a pair.

 Any ideas on what I should do with the old Omega II's. I could send them back to Japan for repair, anyone know how much that would likely cost?

 Thanks!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Damn that sucks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Our US members can help you with the Mk2 dealer but you could just as well send the broken set to the US repair center. I do believe that they will repair any set that is out of warranty but it will not be cheap. Have you tried to wiggle the cable as it enters the housing? That is a common place for it to break.


----------



## urs

88sound

 you got PM

 Urs


----------



## spacemanspliff

lol I am concerned with my neighbors well being too. I have mine down in the basement and it is well insulated by earth and thick walls. I turned it up and went outside. Nothing. Inside, the first two floors are rocking but outside it is very quiet.

 sounds like an earthquake in the basement though.


----------



## mingde10467

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told by my source that the new SR-007mk2 in black only will be in the USA by the end of October or the first few days of November. . ._

 

My impression from previous reports about the new 007 were that certain fit issues - - the earpads, the size and shape of the inner cavity - - were being addressed. Any news about that? Thanks!


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since it looks as though the SR-007 mk2 will be available in the US any day now I would appreciate a recommendation on which US dealer I should go to get a pair._

 

Ooh, anyday now? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is this true. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So far as dealers, www.elusivedisc.com is probably the best known online dealer of Stax in the US.


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So far as dealers, www.elusivedisc.com is probably the best known online dealer of Stax in the US._

 

Pffft, you just like them because they feature Genesis on their front page.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are joking, right? While they are better then some of the other OEM Stax phones (slightly better damping and build) they still sound like a steaming pile of crap._

 


 Yup. Some rube bought 'em for $250. 

 The Vintage Marantz folks go nutty over stuff sometimes. I bet this pair went for so much strictly because it's clean and because the seller says it works (but is being sold as-is with no warranty) -- usually the seller says they don't work properly, and as you know, sometimes they really don't. 

 But i wonder if the marantz fetishists would pay as much if they knew they were just low-end stax.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pffft, you just like them because they feature Genesis on their front page. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

nate what are you doing in here?! go back to DIY, you are interrupting my Stax dream. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




_Look up on the wall, there on the floor
 Under the pillow, behind the door_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. Some rube bought 'em for $250. 

 The Vintage Marantz folks go nutty over stuff sometimes. I bet this pair went for so much strictly because it's clean and because the seller says it works (but is being sold as-is with no warranty) -- usually the seller says they don't work properly, and as you know, sometimes they really don't. 

 But i wonder if the marantz fetishists would pay as much if they knew they were just low-end stax._

 

Well it does say Marantz on the side so it must be good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It not just a low end Stax but the worst phones they could make. Hey if people are willing to pay this much my set could be up for sale...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The wait is almost over!_

 

Great news!
 Can't wait for the mk2 to hit the shelves and the first customers. Cause I am seriously considering adding one to my collection, and would like to know if there are any sound vise updates.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well it does say Marantz on the side so it must be good... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It not just a low end Stax but the worst phones they could make. Hey if people are willing to pay this much my set could be up for sale... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I bought some Marantz 'stats new in 1977 while I was in college. I thought they were pretty good back 30 years ago, but they were horrible to wear. I traded them to my sister for something or other in 1979. She still has some parts of them - 1 fake wood side for the transformer box, maybe other things as well.

 After I got rid of them, I bought some Sennheiser HD424's. They sounded ok, no bass though, and the yellow pads turned to mush after about 7 years.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought some Marantz 'stats new in 1977 while I was in college. I thought they were pretty good back 30 years ago, but they were horrible to wear. I traded them to my sister for something or other in 1979. She still has some parts of them - 1 fake wood side for the transformer box, maybe other things as well.

 After I got rid of them, I bought some Sennheiser HD424's. They sounded ok, no bass though, and the yellow pads turned to mush after about 7 years._

 

They are the ones we are talking about. I converted the phones over to the Stax standard and scrapped the transformer for parts. They were made by Stax and the sockets are even marked Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. I built the SRD-7 Mk2 bias supply earlier and it does work but hums like crazy. Could be the parts, the extra small size or that there was no signal on the transformers but as soon as I unplugged it from the AC it sounded great. I'll work on it later.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I built the SRD-7 Mk2 bias supply earlier and it does work but hums like crazy. Could be the parts, the extra small size or that there was no signal on the transformers but as soon as I unplugged it from the AC it sounded great. I'll work on it later._

 

iirc you were saying that the schematic called for 0.1uf caps. The old SRD-7 mk1 uses 1uf caps. on the other hand, so little current is involved that i guess it probably doesn't matter.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iirc you were saying that the schematic called for 0.1uf caps. The old SRD-7 mk1 uses 1uf caps. on the other hand, so little current is involved that i guess it probably doesn't matter._

 

There are 7 100nf caps and one 10nf. I played around with the cap sizes when I was trying to figure out the ET1000 and it doesn't make much of a difference.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are 7 100nf caps and one 10nf. I played around with the cap sizes when I was trying to figure out the ET1000 and it doesn't make much of a difference._

 

While i had my SRD-7 open to hose down switch contacts with de-oxit i decided that the old 1uf electrolytics may be a little dry and replaced them with polypros. Mainly because i have tons of old wrap-n-fill polypros between 1uf and 3uf. I'm pretty sure it didn't make a difference.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are the ones we are talking about. I converted the phones over to the Stax standard and scrapped the transformer for parts. They were made by Stax and the sockets are even marked Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. I built the SRD-7 Mk2 bias supply earlier and it does work but hums like crazy. Could be the parts, the extra small size or that there was no signal on the transformers but as soon as I unplugged it from the AC it sounded great. I'll work on it later._

 

Thanks Spritzer. I scored a SRD-7 Pro recently - had to give up an SRXIII to get it, but to me it was worth it. I got some very nice silver interconnects in the deal as well. The other party is pleased as well.


----------



## AudioCats

If there is no leak, 0.01uF is probably plenty good enough. My multi-voltage bias board has 0.02uF/1000V for the high bias, there is no hum at all and after I unplug the AC supply the phones will still play for 15 minutes before the sound level start to go down slightly, .


----------



## Faust2D

Question for thous who have SR-Lambda (or Pro, 303, 404) and SRM1/MK-2, when you listen at your regular critical listening volume, what position is your volume knob in, 11, 12 or something else?


----------



## Tachikoma

Wouldn't that depend on your source's output as well?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for thous who have SR-Lambda (or Pro, 303, 404) and SRM1/MK-2, when you listen at your regular critical listening volume, what position is your volume knob in, 11, 12 or something else?_

 

About 10 o'clock, which is a bit higher than with the SRM-007t.
 Using Lambda Pro's with an SRM-1/MK2.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wouldn't that depend on your source's output as well?_

 

Haha yeah, very true. My various sources differ greatly in output levels.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Spritzer. I scored a SRD-7 Pro recently - had to give up an SRXIII to get it, but to me it was worth it. I got some very nice silver interconnects in the deal as well. The other party is pleased as well._

 

Great to hear that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If there is no leak, 0.01uF is probably plenty good enough. My multi-voltage bias board has 0.02uF/1000V for the high bias, there is no hum at all and after I unplug the AC supply the phones will still play for 15 minutes before the sound level start to go down slightly, ._

 

There is very little leak but some phones demand more bias then others. It depends on the spacing and the coating material used. 

 I think mine hums like crazy because I built it so small. It's basically a carbon copy of the schematic to show how easy it is to build one of these. I'll also have to try it with the transformers active. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for thous who have SR-Lambda (or Pro, 303, 404) and SRM1/MK-2, when you listen at your regular critical listening volume, what position is your volume knob in, 11, 12 or something else?_

 

The level is always dependent on your source but from 9-12 is normal.


----------



## Veniogenesis

By the way, does anyone have an opinion on how the Lambda Sig and the Nova Sig compare?


----------



## spritzer

They sound pretty different from each other. The Signature is crisp and upfront while the Nova is more laid back and could be considered boring by comparison but both are great phones.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sound pretty different from each other. The Signature is crisp and upfront while the Nova is more laid back and could be considered boring by comparison but both are great phones._

 

Oh, very interesting. Thank goodness I got both then so I can compare. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks again!


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, very interesting. Thank goodness I got both then so I can compare. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks again!_

 

See, Venio is so nice and friendly.

 The other guy, on the other hand...


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See, Venio is so nice and friendly.
 The other guy, on the other hand..._

 

Wait, is the other guy particularly less friendly than the typical member in his neighborhood? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's okay, it's okay; don't worry. He's actually quite friendly despite his terse remarks and lack of smiley usage. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If he isn't, let me know and I'll teach him a lesson.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, very interesting. Thank goodness I got both then so I can compare. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks again!_

 

Comparing is half the fun. I like the Signature more but that is mainly due to me loathing the newer arc assembly.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Comparing is half the fun. I like the Signature more but that is mainly due to me loathing the newer arc assembly._

 

Lower arc assembly? What do you mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,
 Venio


----------



## 88Sound

Thanks for the PM's, kind words, and sound advise (pun intended) for my O2 channel imbalance issue and recommended US dealer.

 In the first few seconds of playing the right channel is ok and then within 1 minute very smoothly slips lower in volume to the point that four clicks higher on the right side of my Blue Hawaii will even them out. 

 So.....

 1. Seek out another amp to test phones either at head-fi meet or dealer.

 2. Inquire about out of warranty repair.

 3. Purchase O2 mk3 because I'm an early adopter and can't help myself.

 If #3 turns out to be the chosen option, report back here on findings.

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lower arc assembly? What do you mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cheers,
 Venio_

 

They changed the arc (Stax lingo for headband) with the Nova series and i don't like it all that much. I doesn't extend as much and has a higher clamping force. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the PM's, kind words, and sound advise (pun intended) for my O2 channel imbalance issue and recommended US dealer.

 In the first few seconds of playing the right channel is ok and then within 1 minute very smoothly slips lower in volume to the point that four clicks higher on the right side of my Blue Hawaii will even them out. 

 So.....

 1. Seek out another amp to test phones either at head-fi meet or dealer.

 2. Inquire about out of warranty repair.

 3. Purchase O2 mk3 because I'm an early adopter and can't help myself.

 If #3 turns out to be the chosen option, report back here on findings.

 Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sounds like a bias leak. Could be due to a short in the cable or the driver. What happens if you unplug the phones, short the pins on the plug and plug it back in does it behave in the same way? It's not likely to be the amp as the bias is shared so both earpieces would be the same. The phones haven't suffered any shocks in their lifetime?


----------



## spacemanspliff

Shock like being forced to play Britney Spear's new album or electric shock?


----------



## spritzer

Shocks like dropping them to the floor repetitively... pretty much like Spears idea of a proper upbringing


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally posted by spritzer 
 Sounds like a bias leak. Could be due to a short in the cable or the driver. What happens if you unplug the phones, short the pins on the plug and plug it back in does it behave in the same way? It's not likely to be the amp as the bias is shared so both earpieces would be the same. The phones haven't suffered any shocks in their lifetime? 
 

They have seen a lot of use but have been babied, they did make it through a head-fi meet a year ago where it was discovered that the elastic in the head band had worn out near the cups, this was corrected through surgery.

 I unplugged the phones, shorted the pins, turned everything back on, and..........so far they have played perfectly for 25 Minutes! Could they be healed through the power of Head-fi and spritzer mojo??
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Considering they were just shorted they sound great, makes me wonder about the always on bias.

 Thanks spritzer


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They have seen a lot of use but have been babied, they did make it through a head-fi meet a year ago where it was discovered that the elastic in the head band had worn out near the cups, this was corrected through surgery.

 I unplugged the phones, shorted the pins, turned everything back on, and..........so far they have played perfectly for 25 Minutes! Could they be healed through the power of Head-fi and spritzer mojo??
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Considering they were just shorted they sound great, makes me wonder about the always on bias.

 Thanks spritzer
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Glad to have helped!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've never been certain about the benefits of always-on bias. The phones require a bit of a charge but I believe the phones need a break now and again form the constant electric filed.


----------



## ueyteuor

may i join team stax? i just bought a stax srs-2050 system.. just to see what electrostatics is all about... 

 so what should i know about this sytem.. which is better to upgrade first, the headphones, or the amp thats included?? i was thinking of getting 404's later on to use with the amp included with the srs-2050.. or would it be better to keep the 202's and buy a better stax amp?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_may i join team stax? i just bought a stax srs-2050 system.. just to see what electrostatics is all about... 

 so what should i know about this sytem.. which is better to upgrade first, the headphones, or the amp thats included?? i was thinking of getting 404's later on to use with the amp included with the srs-2050.. or would it be better to keep the 202's and buy a better stax amp?_

 

You did not get the system yet and already thinking about upgrading? You are a true head-fier.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_may i join team stax? i just bought a stax srs-2050 system.. just to see what electrostatics is all about..._

 

Sure, you are welcome to join the team.
 Congratulations with the SRS-2050 system. Its a great little system.

  Quote:


 so what should i know about this sytem.. which is better to upgrade first, the headphones, or the amp thats included?? i was thinking of getting 404's later on to use with the amp included with the srs-2050.. or would it be better to keep the 202's and buy a better stax amp? 
 

The SR-202 would scale pretty good with better amplification. So I would start with buying a more powerful amplifier, then move on to the SR-007 at a later stage.

 But at least spend some time with your current system before you go the upgrade route.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, you are welcome to join the team.
 Congratulations with the SRS-2050 system. Its a great little system.

 The SR-202 would scale pretty good with better amplification. So I would start with buying a more powerful amplifier, then move on to the SR-007 at a later stage.

 But at least spend some time with your current system before you go the upgrade route._

 

yeah, i will spend a lot of time listening to this current system before any upgrades... im curious to see if i'll like electrostatics.. it'l be my first electrostatic headphones


----------



## spritzer

First rule of electrostatics, "The phones are almost always better then the amps", so I would get a new amp.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First rule of electrostatics, "The phones are almost always better then the amps", so I would get a new amp._

 

any recommendations?? im not saying ill get one right now, i'll give the system a lot of listening before i buy another amp for it, but until then.. what;s the best amp to go with the 202?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any recommendations?? im not saying ill get one right now, i'll give the system a lot of listening before i buy another amp for it, but until then.. what;s the best amp to go with the 202?_

 

A vintage SRM-1 Mk2 or a T1 would be a good place to start.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any recommendations?? im not saying ill get one right now, i'll give the system a lot of listening before i buy another amp for it, but until then.. what;s the best amp to go with the 202?_

 

I agree with Spritzer, I would think the next amp upgrade would be a good used SRM-1mk2 Pro ($350-550) or maybe a SRM-T1 (skip the SRM-006t) for a little more money. My fav Stax amp for the Lambda's is the SRM-007t but that may be to much money ($900-1200) used. If you already own a good speaker amplifier you may look for a SRD-7 mk2 or Pro ($150-300) and drive it with your amp.

 There are a few people hear (including me) that think that the 202 has a better tonal balance (not as much upper midrange glare) than the 404. The 404 can sound good but it takes a really good match with a amp and source.

 AudioD


----------



## Faust2D

Where can I find frequency graphs for Stax headphones? i wanted to see what the difference in graphs is between SR-lambda and SR-303 and the Nova series.


----------



## spritzer

The 202 is a very good headphone and is one of the reasons why I'm breaking down and thinking about breaking my promise not to buy the Basic and Classic Lambdas... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is it a good excuse that I need to own every Lambda model ever made...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where can I find frequency graphs for Stax headphones? i wanted to see what the difference in graphs is between SR-lambda and SR-303 and the Nova series.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are located in the instruction manuals on some models. I'm not sure that one was included with the Sr-lambda but the newer phones should have them.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 202 is a very good headphone and is one of the reasons why I'm breaking down and thinking about breaking my promise not to buy the Basic and Classic Lambdas... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is it a good excuse that I need to own every Lambda model ever made...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 They are located in the instruction manuals on some models. I'm not sure that one was included with the Sr-lambda but the newer phones should have them._

 

You don't need every single Lambda, that's crazy talk. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have one for SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I was looking for older models to see what the reported stats were and how are they different from new models.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't need every single Lambda, that's crazy talk. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well I'm only missing 4 (5 if you count the Pro Classic but that's the same model as Lambda Spirit), Nova Basic and Classic and the 202 and 303. 1k$ for the cans but knowing that I've completely lost my marbles, priceless... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have one for SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I was looking for older models to see what the reported stats were and how are they different from new models._

 

I've never paid much attention to them but some can be found on the Unofficial Stax page.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I'm only missing 4 (5 if you count the Pro Classic but that's the same model as Lambda Spirit), Nova Basic and Classic and the 202 and 303. 1k$ for the cans but knowing that I've completely lost my marbles, priceless... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

So what would be the complete lambda lineup? Let me try:

 SR-Lambda (6 pins)
 SR-Lambda Pro (5 pins)
 SR-Lambda Signature (5 pins)
 SR-Lambda Pro Classic (not sure about this one?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
 SR-Lambda Spirit
 SR-Lambda Nova Basic
 SR-Lambda Nova Classic
 SR-Lambda Nova Signature
 SR-Lambda 202
 SR-Lambda 303
 SR-Lambda 404

 Did I miss anything?


----------



## ferraro25

I just wanted to say that I like all of this positive talk about the 202, especially the "better tonal balance than the 404" comment, which was my main worry about the headphones. Makes me more anxious to purchase the 2050II system, but I have to wait a little more until I can be sure that I can afford it.

 I'm looking forward to your impressions, ueyteuor.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what would be the complete lambda lineup? Let me try:

 SR-Lambda (6 pins)
 SR-Lambda Pro (5 pins)
 SR-Lambda Signature (5 pins)
 SR-Lambda Pro Classic (not sure about this one?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
 SR-Lambda Spirit
 SR-Lambda Nova Basic
 SR-Lambda Nova Classic
 SR-Lambda Nova Signature
 SR-Lambda 202
 SR-Lambda 303
 SR-Lambda 404

 Did I miss anything?_

 

The Spirit and the Pro Classic are the same and a pretty good headphone at that. You missed the Airbow SR-SC1 since it is really the flagship of the Lambda line so it should be counted as well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to say that I like all of this positive talk about the 202, especially the "better tonal balance than the 404" comment, which was my main worry about the headphones. Makes me more anxious to purchase the 2050II system, but I have to wait a little more until I can be sure that I can afford it.

 I'm looking forward to your impressions, ueyteuor._

 

It has a better tonal balance in the way they aren't as ruthless as the 404 but that is a strength to me as the Lambdas can be too revealing for their own good.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Has anyone used monoblock tube amps to power their stax? I am considering the various options to power the SRD-7. Would I be better served in some other way? I have a good dac but am looking for greater musicality as always and thought a tube amp for around $400 would be the best upgrade.


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used monoblock tube amps to power their stax? I am considering the various options to power the SRD-7. Would I be better served in some other way? I have a good dac but am looking for greater musicality as always and thought a tube amp for around $400 would be the best upgrade._

 

i don't know of anything in that price range, particularly monoblocks. sounds like you need an integrated, tho. the least expensive thing that might do it is the cayin ha-1a (headphone amp and integrated), but its around $800 new. other stuff that comes to mind (primaluna and aes) is over $1k.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used monoblock tube amps to power their stax? I am considering the various options to power the SRD-7. Would I be better served in some other way? I have a good dac but am looking for greater musicality as always and thought a tube amp for around $400 would be the best upgrade._

 

A new 400$ tube amp will be pretty bad so I would get a vintage receiver or an integrated. You could find an old MAC or Fisher at those prices and even have it restored. The sound is better then any cheap amp today.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used monoblock tube amps to power their stax? I am considering the various options to power the SRD-7. Would I be better served in some other way? I have a good dac but am looking for greater musicality as always and thought a tube amp for around $400 would be the best upgrade._

 

Find a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70. They both are great on the SRD-7. Check Audiogon and eBay. Old stock units go cheap. I used a Stereo 35 driving a SRD-7 with SR-XIII and SR-5's years ago with great results. The Stereo 35 is the better of the two, but half the power.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Find a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70. They both are great on the SRD-7. Check Audiogon and eBay. Old stock units go cheap. I used a Stereo 35 driving a SRD-7 with SR-XIII and SR-5's years ago with great results. The Stereo 35 is the better of the two, but half the power._

 

I don't know how Dynaco slipped my mind... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Always go with lower powered tube units as they almost always sound better. Running pentodes at near full level is nasty and they sound much better when wired as triodes.


----------



## krmathis

This one looks interesting!
 A KT88 tube amplifier, for speakers and Stax headphones. Seems like some kind of DIY build, but certainly not sure...




http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=180173254312


----------



## spritzer

A single ended triode connected pentode with an EF86 as a driver, very Quad. I'd love to see a picture of the inside of the amp but I'm guessing that the signal is lifted off the primary of the output trafo and fed through phase splitter. I'd prefer push-pull DHT's but this will work as well.


----------



## krmathis

^ I know there are better amplifiers out there.
 Just had not seen this particular one mentioned before, so it caught my eye. Depending on its final price (currently at $37), this might be a nice Stax amplifier..

 I will pass though.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Tubes are expensive. Hrrrr. I need $$ for PC upgrades next month too. Guess I will try my old NAD power amp then. It has to be better than this Sony which is barely acceptable with Stax and worse for speakers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ I know there are better amplifiers out there.
 Just had not seen this particular one mentioned before, so it caught my eye. Depending on its final price (currently at $37), this might be a nice Stax amplifier..

 I will pass though._

 

I'll keep an eye on it but if it becomes too expensive I'll pass. It's nice to see a new take on the Stax amp concept but there are really a thousand different ways to drive electrostatic phones. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tubes are expensive. Hrrrr. I need $$ for PC upgrades next month too. Guess I will try my old NAD power amp then. It has to be better than this Sony which is barely acceptable with Stax and worse for speakers._

 

You could also go for a vintage SS amp form the 70's. Most of the Japanese stuff was very good and is close to free now.


----------



## spacemanspliff

What is a brand to look for with the SS? What should I look out for problem wise?

 Thanks as always man you guys are awesome.


----------



## naamanf

How do you think a balanced B22 would be through the SRD-7Mk2 to a pair of 02s? It does about 50w per ch.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is a brand to look for with the SS? What should I look out for problem wise?

 Thanks as always man you guys are awesome._

 

The problems are those associated with all vintage amps i.e. drifting resistors, oxidation and leaking capacitors but this stuff hold up really well. I have a vintage Kenwood and it is very good and so is Sansui and many others. SS isn't really my thing so others might have more information on this. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you think a balanced B22 would be through the SRD-7Mk2 to a pair of 02s? It does about 50w per ch._

 

The problem isn't the driving amp but rather the transformers in the SRD-7. They are simply too small for any of the tougher loads and can't deliver enough current.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Ori mentioned an old Kenwood I will look for that I think.


----------



## spritzer

I really like mine and a few simple mods will make it even better.


----------



## spacemanspliff

What model Kenwood? Is it a receiver or amp?


----------



## HFat

My understanding is that the SRM-Xh is similar to the SRM-252.
 I'm wondering about the impact of the wall wart on the sound...

 In this very thread, Hirsch said he used a 3A linear power supply and in the following post, Downrange said one should avoid switch mode power supplies:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...3&postcount=28
 Yet some posters say that just about any power supply that's a good bit beefier than simple math says should be required should be fine.
 I'm not surprised to find varying opinions obviously but I'd still like to gather a few more... anyone with some experience in matter (not necessarily with that exact model of course) wanna pitch in? I want to know if you think it makes no difference and, if you think it makes a difference, I want to get an idea of how much difference it makes in your opinion. Thanks.

 Apologies if this is not an appropriate inquiry for this thread. I'm not part of the Stax Mafia so I don't know the rules. Well, I know one's not supposed to talk about the Stax... oops!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What model Kenwood? Is it a receiver or amp?_

 

KA-8100 and it is an integrated amp i.e. with a volume control. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HFat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My understanding is that the SRM-Xh is similar to the SRM-252.
 I'm wondering about the impact of the wall wart on the sound...

 In this very thread, Hirsch said he used a 3A linear power supply and in the following post, Downrange said one should avoid switch mode power supplies:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...3&postcount=28
 Yet some posters say that just about any power supply that's a good bit beefier than simple math says should be required should be fine.
 I'm not surprised to find varying opinions obviously but I'd still like to gather a few more... anyone with some experience in matter (not necessarily with that exact model of course) wanna pitch in? I want to know if you think it makes no difference and, if you think it makes a difference, I want to get an idea of how much difference it makes in your opinion. Thanks.

 Apologies if this is not an appropriate inquiry for this thread. I'm not part of the Stax Mafia so I don't know the rules. Well, I know one's not supposed to talk about the Stax... oops!_

 

The SRM-Xh is just an older model and the design is similar. 

 The PSU makes a huge difference. I tested mine with a large bench supply and it sounds quite a bit better then the tiny wall wart I'm now using but I'm not really too bothered about the difference as it's used for computer duty i.e. games and the occasional music file. It wouldn't be all that hard and expensive to build a PSU for the amp that works better and thats just what Airbow in Japan does. 

 With increased current capability you get a sound that is less strained and more flowing. Bass depth is increased and the soundstage grows but this will wary between PSU's.


----------



## ueyteuor

well, guess what was at my door (so quickly!) this morning.. the stax box! in it was the srs-2050 that i recently bought. oh my god, i was so happy with the condition they are in, i would have never thought they have been even slightly used if he hadnt told me... every thing was in the bags, the cords all perfect rolled up and everything, just like when it is when its new! but anyway, i took everything out carefully, and loved the look and shape of everything i saw. then i put the sr-202 (headphones) on my head. oh my gad!!!! these are most comfortable headphones i have ever felt.. or, never felt! I can not even feel them, thats how comfy they are!! so light, and just, comfortable. i love the way they feel! then, the music! I plugged everything in... played some .flac that was on my comp.... wow............... i have never heard cleaner, clearer, music then this! this is like the highest quality music i have ever heard, everything is so crisp... it leaks a lot of noise outside, but i dont care, but, theres not really bass, or maybe its just the music im listening too? ill listen later to songs with a little bass... but honestly, i love them, purely. i can't imagine what an upgraded amp would sound like.... really, what can improve this sound!! i love them how they are! maybe just a tad bit more bass, but other than that, they are awesome. i cant believe this is just the "basic" or "beginner" version from stax.... jeeez i wonder what the omega II sounds like, if this sounds so good. so basically, the music is clear, but, i dont see a big difference between electrostatics and dynamics... besides dynamic being a bit more muddy maybe? long story short, i am extremely happy with them! 

 (where are the drivers on it? its see through, lol)


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


 jeeez i wonder what the omega II sounds like, 
 

It seems like you are in some serious trouble mister..... or at least your wallet will be, pretty soon


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, guess what was at my door (so quickly!) this morning.. the stax box! in it was the srs-2050 that i recently bought. oh my god, i was so happy with the condition they are in, i would have never thought they have been even slightly used if he hadnt told me... every thing was in the bags, the cords all perfect rolled up and everything, just like when it is when its new! but anyway, i took everything out carefully, and loved the look and shape of everything i saw. then i put the sr-202 (headphones) on my hea........... ~snip~_

 

Congrats! The SR-202 is a great introduction to electrostatic headphones.k


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stax srs-2050 impressions_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRS-2050 system is a great entry to the world of electrostatic headphones. An SR-007 with a tube amp is a huge step up though, so stay clear of listening to it if your wallet is not prepared... he he


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_theres not really bass, or maybe its just the music im listening too? ill listen later to songs with a little bass... but honestly, i love them, purely. i can't imagine what an upgraded amp would sound like.... really, what can improve this sound!! i love them how they are! maybe just a tad bit more bass, but other than that, they are awesome._

 

Welcome to the club 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 They actually are supposed to have a lot of bass, strange that you don't hear it


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to the club 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The actually are supposed to have a lot of bass, strange that you don't hear it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think he just has to get over the lack of one-note bass and slam and see how it was supposed to sound in the first place...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he just has to get over the lack of one-note bass and slam and see how it was supposed to sound in the first place... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ditto!
 He have to adapt to the Stax way of reproducing bass tones. Well controlled and extended bass, not the "muffled" punchy one from a dynamic headphone...


----------



## spritzer

Crappy dynamics!!!! Who needs or even wants them...


----------



## Faust2D

Dynamic bass is not as bad as you making it out to be, if it's done right it is very enjoyable, the problem is that so many dynamic headphones get it wrong.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dynamic bas is not as bad as you making it out to be, if it's done right it is very enjoyable, the problem is that so many dynamic headphones get it wrong. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes you are right. But then they are technically called orthodynamics...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It has a better tonal balance in the way they aren't as ruthless as the 404 but that is a strength to me as the Lambdas can be too revealing for their own good._

 

I would have agreed with this statement at one time, but I have found a number of tweaks that really make my lambdas (404 and Nova) sing. The best is Siclear on various contact surfaces. But disk tweaks work well too. BTW the current Stereophile has a review of some disc polishes. It has some nice things to say about Auric Illuminator, which I also use.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KA-8100 and it is an integrated amp i.e. with a volume control. 
 The SRM-Xh is just an older model and the design is similar. 
 The PSU makes a huge difference. I tested mine with a large bench supply and it sounds quite a bit better then the tiny wall wart I'm now using but I'm not really too bothered about the difference as it's used for computer duty i.e. games and the occasional music file. It wouldn't be all that hard and expensive to build a PSU for the amp that works better and thats just what Airbow in Japan does. 

 With increased current capability you get a sound that is less strained and more flowing. Bass depth is increased and the soundstage grows but this will wary between PSU's._

 

Since you can get a bench power supply usually for less than $100.00 it is a good upgrade for those systems that allow dc in. I was very happy with an bench supply running the Koss amp for the 950 system, untill I discovered that the 950 phones runs even better from a Stax amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would have agreed with this statement at one time, but I have found a number of tweaks that really make my lambdas (404 and Nova) sing. The best is Siclear on various contact surfaces. But disk tweaks work well too. BTW the current Stereophile has a review of some disc polishes. It has some nice things to say about Auric Illuminator, which I also use._

 

The ultimate cure is the SR-SC1 as it fixes most of the 404 flaws at a price though.


----------



## Paul Canaris

Stax Sigma, is there a best model in this range? Were they all SS or were some tubed.

 How do they compare to the Lamdas?

 How do they compare to the 3030 and 4040?

 How hard are repairs if needed?

 Sorry for what may be less than well defined questions, but I'm still pretty confused over the chronology of the older models.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Paul Canaris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax Sigma, is there a best model in this range? Were they all SS or were some tubed._

 

There are two Sigma models. The SR-Sigma (Normal bias, 230volt) and the SR-Sigma Pro (Pro bias, 580 volt).

 I have not heard a Sigma, so let someone else comment on how they compare to the Lambda's (SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro, SR-Lambda Signature, SR-303, SR-404, ...).

  Quote:


 How hard are repairs if needed? 
 

They have been out of production for 15-20 years, so identical parts will be a problem.
 But earpads are available new, and drivers (for the Pro version) can be replaced with SR-202/303/404 ones. The headband and cable probably can be transplanted from in-production headphones as well.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

How would I hook up a stax 404 to some mono blocks (such as the nuforce reference 9).

 I know about the transformer but what would I use to adjust the volume on the R9? A receiver? 

 Computer usb> Stello DA100 >Nuforce R9>stax transformer> stax 404


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would I hook up a stax 404 to some mono blocks (such as the nuforce reference 9).

 I know about the transformer but what would I use to adjust the volume on the R9? A receiver? 

 Computer usb> Stello DA100 >Nuforce R9>stax transformer> stax 404_

 

You need some kind of preamplifier.
 Computer usb> Stello DA100 > *Preamplifier* -> Nuforce R9>stax transformer> stax 404


----------



## ferraro25

Nice impressions! Hopefully I'll be able to purchase the 2050 this week.

 On another topic, "optical disk playback enhancers," are you kidding me? Magical thinking.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Sweet more money to burn!

 This is becoming expensive, but you only live once 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Plus I figure with this set-up, I can always add speakers to it.


----------



## ueyteuor

so how do these headphones produce such awesome sound if the drivers are invisible?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so how do these headphones produce such awesome sound if the drivers are invisible?_

 

Invisible drivers?
 The drivers are boxed in. But can be easily seen in my Lambda Pro pair, here..






 Edit: Or do you mean how they can sound so awesome, using just a 1.5 µm (1.5/1000 millimetre) PET membrane?


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so how do these headphones produce such awesome sound if the drivers are invisible?_

 

pretty extreme huh?


----------



## Faust2D

Stax drivers are translucent, not invisible


----------



## ueyteuor

well, when i put them up towards the monitor, i can see through them, and see whats on the monitor...


----------



## spritzer

You can see through them but they aren't invisible.


----------



## Duggeh

I cant find my Omega 2s, The light must be at the wrong angle...


----------



## ueyteuor

anyone have any idea of how many hrs they need until they are fully burned in??


----------



## Tachikoma

Why the obsession with burn in? Just keep listening to them

 About the gilmore DC-coupled amp, do I need to set up an additional "preheat" system to minimize tube wear? If yes, how can I do that? I'll be using the BH PCB for the PSU.


----------



## ueyteuor

do electrostatic drivers ever blow or something?? if i fully blast them?? i like listening to my music loud, so if i listen to them with the amp volume at the max, will it do any damage to the drivers?

 another question.. i can feel my head pumping, like a blood rush.. is this actually my head, or am i feeling the motion of the drivers working?? is this normal?


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do electrostatic drivers ever blow or something?? if i fully blast them?? i like listening to my music loud, so if i listen to them with the amp volume at the max, will it do any damage to the drivers?

 another question.. i can feel my head pumping, like a blood rush.. is this actually my head, or am i feeling the motion of the drivers working?? is this normal?_

 

beep beep ears in danger beep beep ears in danger beep beep ears in danger....


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_beep beep ears in danger beep beep ears in danger beep beep ears in danger...._

 

i noticed your from romania.. thats cool, im romanian too


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do electrostatic drivers ever blow or something?? if i fully blast them?? i like listening to my music loud, so if i listen to them with the amp volume at the max, will it do any damage to the drivers?_

 

Yes! Yes! Yes! You can hurt the amp, headphone drivers and your ears. The repairs can be expensive. One of the nice qualities of stat phones is that you don't have to play them as loud to get all the detail. If you listen extremely loud all the time I would change to dynamic headphones.

 AudioD


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you listen extremely loud all the time I would change to dynamic headphones._

 

IEMs are even better.This way you can get used to the look and feel ....
 ...... of hearing aids.


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_another question.. i can feel my head pumping, like a blood rush.. is this actually my head, or am i feeling the motion of the drivers working?? is this normal?_

 

i agree -- it sounds like you're listening way too loud.

 with regard to your requestion -- stax 'phones are interesting. while they are "open" (i.e. leak sound), when you put them on they do effectively "seal" around your ears. i do feel a little pressure when i first put them on. this is an unusual feeling relative to open dynamic 'phones.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IEMs are even better.This way you can get used to the look and feel ....
 ...... of hearing aids.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great Response!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax drivers are translucent, not invisible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can see through them but they aren't invisible._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, when i put them up towards the monitor, i can see through them, and see whats on the monitor..._

 

Yes, they are translucent. But certainly not invincible. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do electrostatic drivers ever blow or something?? if i fully blast them?? i like listening to my music loud, so if i listen to them with the amp volume at the max, will it do any damage to the drivers?_

 

Beware, Beware!
 Your ears will most probably blow long time before the Stax'. 5/10 is all I can care, and here you listen at 10/10. Be careful!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Paul Canaris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax Sigma, is there a best model in this range? Were they all SS or were some tubed.

 How do they compare to the Lamdas?

 How do they compare to the 3030 and 4040?

 How hard are repairs if needed?

 Sorry for what may be less than well defined questions, but I'm still pretty confused over the chronology of the older models._

 

You can also upgrade them with the current Lambda 404 drivers and cable.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177715

 Johnbuchanan who is the only other person I know of to do this mod reported that he preferred the sound of the Sigma/404 to his Omega II's.

 Parts are getting a little hard to find but generally there is compatability with lambdas which succeeded the Sigmas. I sent my old Sigmas to the US distributer Yamasinc to make the 404 mod.

 Soundwize I have made some comparissons...

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=174028

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=183810

 and you will find other comparisons in this thread.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_another question.. i can feel my head pumping, like a blood rush.. is this actually my head, or am i feeling the motion of the drivers working?? is this normal?_

 

I had that same experience just a few hours ago with my Koss ESP/6 - but they weren't even plugged in!


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i noticed your from romania.. thats cool, im romanian too_

 

Hi!

 Pardon...

 Salut!


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi!

 Pardon...

 Salut!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

sal, ce faci?


----------



## ueyteuor

im still a noob, so can someone tell me, are stax considered balanced since they are the way they are.. (5-pin and cable type)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im still a noob, so can someone tell me, are stax considered balanced since they are the way they are.. (5-pin and cable type)_

 

Yes, they are balanced by nature. Hot and cold for each channel, plus bias voltage equals 5 pin,,


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im still a noob, so can someone tell me, are stax considered balanced since they are the way they are.. (5-pin and cable type)_

 

Like Kai said they are balanced because single ended electrostatic panels produce gobs of distortion but the whole balanced thing here on head-fi is largely overblown.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I'm looking for a headphone that is super detailed and with good instrument separation. Soundstage doesn't need to be huge but just there. I'm not ballin like most on here but from the descriptions of Stax phones they sound nice. The SR001 looks like the most affordable option to me and I think I have access to an AC adapter that will work with the included amp.

 Would you guys recommend this or would this not be anymore detailed than what I have?


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking for a headphone that is super detailed and with good instrument separation. Soundstage doesn't need to be huge but just there. I'm not ballin like most on here but from the descriptions of Stax phones they sound nice. The SR001 looks like the most affordable option to me and I think I have access to an AC adapter that will work with the included amp.

 Would you guys recommend this or would this not be anymore detailed than what I have?_

 

the sr-001 is really considered a "transportable" system and can also run on batteries. if you search, there is a thread about the sr-001s within the last week or so. net, net, its a nice system with rolled-off highs and a good way to get into stax.

 if you're looking for a home system and really want to get the sound of stax, jump up to the srs-2050 system. you can get it from japan for around $450 shipped (see pricejapan.com). you will need to get a 120v wall wart (very inexpensive), 'cause it will come with a 100v one intended for japan.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR001 looks like the most affordable option to me and I think I have access to an AC adapter that will work with the included amp.

 Would you guys recommend this or would this not be anymore detailed than what I have?_

 

The SR-001MK2 is a really nice little system. Especially considering that its a portable system, which can run on batteries and fit in your pocket. I am pretty sure you will be very pleased with it.

 The next step up, as mentioned by 'jcn3', are the SRS-2050 system. Which cost an additional $200 on top of the $240 for the SR-001MK2. Or check out some of the vintage systems...


----------



## spacemanspliff

Just a heads up. I am selling my SR-Lambdas. Too busy now and in the future to actually sit down and listen. Going over to speakers so I can move around more. They are on the fs here now. Sucks having to be responsible! Two days and they go to ebay btw.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a heads up. I am selling my SR-Lambdas. Too busy now and in the future to actually sit down and listen. Going over to speakers so I can move around more. They are on the fs here now. Sucks having to be responsible! Two days and they go to ebay btw._

 

So I just bought these from spaceman, with the SRD-7. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be powering these with my 840A. This will be my first time ever hearing a pair of electrostat headphones. Any of you Stax gods care to share with me what to expect? I have to say, I'm pretty excited. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, whats the difference between the Lambdas and the Lambda Pros?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I just bought these from spaceman, with the SRD-7. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be powering these with my 840A. This will be my first time ever hearing a pair of electrostat headphones. Any of you Stax gods care to share with me what to expect? I have to say, I'm pretty excited. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, whats the difference between the Lambdas and the Lambda Pros?_

 

Be prepared for something pretty different from your usual headphones. It's best to approach something like this with an open mind and don't have too many expectations. 

 I prefer the normal Lambda to the Pro version but that's just me.


----------



## morphsci

Qustion for all the Staxen lovers. Do you guys turn off the amp before unplugging the phones? Just curious.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be prepared for something pretty different from your usual headphones. It's best to approach something like this with an open mind and don't have too many expectations._

 

Probably some good advice. I'll be sure to give the phone a lot of headtime before I make any judgements.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I prefer the normal Lambda to the Pro version but that's just me_

 

This is good to hear, thank you.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *morphsci* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Qustion for all the Staxen lovers. Do you guys turn off the amp before unplugging the phones? Just curious._

 

No, I never do that. I do however never run them without a load present for any length of time. You can't do this with SE dynamic headphones as the crappy TRS plug shorts the amp while you insert/pull out the plug.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *morphsci* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Qustion for all the Staxen lovers. Do you guys turn off the amp before unplugging the phones? Just curious._

 

I don't unplug the phones at all. Somebody mentioned a while ago that they discharge slower if they are left plugged in, so if, say, I listened to some music, then I turned the amp off and soon afterwards I wanted to listen some more I can reduce the charging time. Also, perhaps the connectors might slowly wear off with use?!


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jcn3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the sr-001 is really considered a "transportable" system and can also run on batteries. if you search, there is a thread about the sr-001s within the last week or so. net, net, its a nice system with rolled-off highs and a good way to get into stax.

 if you're looking for a home system and really want to get the sound of stax, jump up to the srs-2050 system. you can get it from japan for around $450 shipped (see pricejapan.com). you will need to get a 120v wall wart (very inexpensive), 'cause it will come with a 100v one intended for japan._

 

lol, i've been using the 100v that stax included, but i did get a 120v included, just had not used it... i'll listen to see what the difference is


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't unplug the phones at all. Somebody mentioned a while ago that they discharge slower if they are left plugged in, so if, say, I listened to some music, then I turned the amp off and soon afterwards I wanted to listen some more I can reduce the charging time. Also, perhaps the connectors might slowly wear off with use?!_

 

The connectors will last 50 years easily so that isn't a problem but I keep the phones I'm using always connected and there is at least one amp on 24/7 so it's always handy. They only discharge slower when connected to the amp as there is some charge left in the bias supply capacitors.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, they are balanced by nature. Hot and cold for each channel, plus bias voltage equals 5 pin,,_

 

How can the be balanced if they share a ground? (I assume)

 Wouldn't they have to have 6 pins to be truly balanced?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can the be balanced if they share a ground? (I assume)

 Wouldn't they have to have 6 pins to be truly balanced?_

 

There is no ground in electrostatic drivers. You should read up on the principle.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no ground in electrostatic drivers. You should read up on the principle._

 

I see.

 So they would benefit from a completely balanced system?


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the whole balanced thing here on head-fi is largely overblown._

 

ya.... I agree.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see.

 So they would benefit from a completely balanced system?_

 

There is no correct answer for this question. If you were going with a hypothetical perfect single ended and perfect differential chains both ending in the same push-pull output stage, then the balanced would be louder due to more voltage but SE much purer and more musical. You are sacrificing a whole lot of simplicity in the favor of some theoretical and loader way of doing things. There is a reason why many pro gear is single ended but fitted with transformers at the inputs and outputs to produce galvanic isolation and use the differential signal for what it does best, travel over large distances in an environment riddled with interference. 

 I used to believe that balanced was the only way but now I see just how idiotic it is to use double the parts to achieve something that is actually worse due to the need to use cheaper parts. There is theoretical advantage but you won't need that outside of the studio. I'd much rather spend the extra dough on better transformers, caps, wiring etc.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The connectors will last 50 years easily_

 

Tell that to the cracked-up socket on my SRD-6sb! I suppose it still works fine, but it looks terrible, which in turn helped me get quite a low price. I bet if I gave it another decade of regular plugging and unplugging, it would break. And that would only be 40 years since its introduction, so there.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tell that to the cracked-up socket on my SRD-6sb! I suppose it still works fine, but it looks terrible, which in turn helped me get quite a low price. I bet if I gave it another decade of regular plugging and unplugging, it would break. And that would only be 40 years since its introduction, so there._

 

You mean, my Omegas will be kaput in about 37 years?
 Dang, I've planned to trade them for decent hearing aid then .........

 Edit: I've misread it.The sockets tend to break early.The plugs will hopefully last much longer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tell that to the cracked-up socket on my SRD-6sb! I suppose it still works fine, but it looks terrible, which in turn helped me get quite a low price. I bet if I gave it another decade of regular plugging and unplugging, it would break. And that would only be 40 years since its introduction, so there._

 

The sockets can't take any abuse while the plugs are very strong. The sockets will break if you look at the the wrong way...


----------



## Veniogenesis

Hmm, this is very strange. I just got a SRM-1 MKII Pro-Pro that has a problem. Here are the symptoms:

 Turn on amp, keep volume at zero: No buzz
 Turn on amp, turn volume (both left and right channel) up: Huge buzz from both left and right past 9 o'clock
 Turn on amp, turn volume (left channel only) up: Huge buzz from both left and right past 9 o'clock _*not quite sure if it's from both channels; will recheck once I go home_
 Turn on amp, turn volume (right channel only) up: No buzz
 Turn on amp, keep volume at zero, come back 30 minutes later, turn up volume: No buzz

 What could be wrong here? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Haha thanks for the help everyone!
 Venio


----------



## spritzer

Could be a loose ground connection on the input or somewhere else in the amp. The volume pot could have a short somewhere. It could also be caused by a cap on it's last legs.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be a loose ground connection on the input or somewhere else in the amp. The volume pot could have a short somewhere. It could also be caused by a cap on it's last legs._

 

Cool. I'll look into it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks again!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I just bought these from spaceman, with the SRD-7. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be powering these with my 840A. This will be my first time ever hearing a pair of electrostat headphones. Any of you Stax gods care to share with me what to expect? I have to say, I'm pretty excited. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, whats the difference between the Lambdas and the Lambda Pros?_

 

Wow! You did bite fast... 
 Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am confident that they will give you numerous great listening sessions.
 Difference between Lambda and Lambda Pro? Different Bias voltage. Meaning different drivers and connector (5 instead of 6 pin).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *morphsci* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Qustion for all the Staxen lovers. Do you guys turn off the amp before unplugging the phones? Just curious._

 

Yes, most of the times. But I don't know if it makes any difference.
 In any way, I always turn down the volume before disconnecting/connecting.


----------



## audiod

Good News!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax USA just got their first shippment of the SR-007mk2 from Japan. I will have mine this Friday! I expect my KGSS to also arrive on Friday. I should have fun this weekend listening to the SR-007 & SR-007mk2 on the 007t, 717 & my new (to me) KGSS. Xmas came early this year for me.


----------



## Faust2D

Wow, all these great headphones and amps. I am jealous.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good News!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax USA just got their first shippment of the SR-007mk2 from Japan. I will have mine this Friday! I expect my KGSS to also arrive on Friday. I should have fun this weekend listening to the SR-007 & SR-007mk2 on the 007t, 717 & my new (to me) KGSS. Xmas came early this year for me._

 

WHERE CAN FIND ONLINE IN STORE MK2


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_WHERE CAN FIND ONLINE IN STORE MK2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I put in my order months ago. I don't know how many the USA received, but they have a lot on order from dealers. I would contact your local dealer and ask.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I put in my order months ago. I don't know how many the USA received, but they have a lot on order from dealers. I would contact your local dealer and ask._

 

Ack, if only I had a local dealer. I live in audio wasteland. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Which technically makes Elusive Disc my dealer. I'll shoot them an email.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good News!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax USA just got their first shippment of the SR-007mk2 from Japan. I will have mine this Friday! I expect my KGSS to also arrive on Friday. I should have fun this weekend listening to the SR-007 & SR-007mk2 on the 007t, 717 & my new (to me) KGSS. Xmas came early this year for me._

 

We need impressions and pictures ASAP


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We need impressions and pictures ASAP 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Will do!


----------



## dvse

Looks like I'm the first to post this - SR-007 MK2 brochure!


http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/SR0...brochure-s.pdf


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good News!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax USA just got their first shippment of the SR-007mk2 from Japan. I will have mine this Friday! I expect my KGSS to also arrive on Friday. I should have fun this weekend listening to the SR-007 & SR-007mk2 on the 007t, 717 & my new (to me) KGSS. Xmas came early this year for me._

 

Excellent news!
 Have a nice weekend, and don't forget to let us know how you like it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like I'm the first to post this - SR-007 MK2 brochure!

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/SR0...brochure-s.pdf_

 

* downloaded *
 Thanks for sharing the link! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 The SR-007 (not mk2) are now a discontinued product. Long live the SR-007! 
http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/ExportProducts.html


----------



## jellybones

I really want to give some Stax a try. I'm enjoying my current setup..but if I sold it..probably get around a grand for my headphones and amp..What Stax setup should I upgrade to? And where's the best place to buy them? What improvements do you think I'd find?

 Are Stax okay to use with my emu0404 as source? Or would I need a source upgrade also?


----------



## spritzer

Thanks for the links guys. 

 SR-007 it was nice knowing you...


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jellybones* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really want to give some Stax a try. I'm enjoying my current setup..but if I sold it..probably get around a grand for my headphones and amp..What Stax setup should I upgrade to? And where's the best place to buy them? What improvements do you think I'd find?

 Are Stax okay to use with my emu0404 as source? Or would I need a source upgrade also?_

 

You should really find a dealer or meet and try out some Stax before you make the transition. Only the Omega would come in as a nearly unquestioned upgrade from your current system, though depending on your taste one of the current Lambdas might also feel like an upgrade. The best place to buy Stax is from a dealer who lets you try them, but they cost much much less online from places like Audiocubes2 or Pricejapan. The 0404 would work alright as a source, though it would remain the weak link in your system, as it already is.

 As for what improvements you might find, you could start by reading pages 1-199 of this thread, and move on from there...


----------



## holdendebeans

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good News!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax USA just got their first shippment of the SR-007mk2 from Japan. I will have mine this Friday! I expect my KGSS to also arrive on Friday. I should have fun this weekend listening to the SR-007 & SR-007mk2 on the 007t, 717 & my new (to me) KGSS. Xmas came early this year for me._

 

Merry Christmas man. You will have a great weekend.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 When you give us your thoughts and comparisons don't forget the "lesser models" Thanks.


----------



## naamanf

Good news on the Mk2s. I should be starting on a Blue Hawaii and hopefully have it finished in a month. Can't wait to get some Stax lovin'


----------



## jjhatfield

For those without an local dealer, Elusive Disc will be getting their shipment of MK2 in early next week. I've asked them for a price quote.

 In other news, I get my SR-Lambdas and SRD-7 in tomorrow, so I get to spend this weekend enjoying my first stat experience. I've got a nice stack of dynamics to compare them to.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those without an local dealer, Elusive Disc will be getting their shipment of MK2 in early next week. I've asked them for a price quote.

 In other news, I get my SR-Lambdas and SRD-7 in tomorrow, so I get to spend this weekend enjoying my first stat experience. I've got a nice stack of dynamics to compare them to. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You will like the Lambdas, especially if you have a nice amp to drive the SRD-7. 

 I was just in your neck of the woods three weeks ago - could've brought some Stax gear for you to try out. Next time.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_WHERE CAN FIND ONLINE IN STORE MK2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You're certainly not the only one looking.
 Its hopefully just a matter of days before it comes available through PriceJapan, Audio Cubes II and EIFL.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will like the Lambdas, especially if you have a nice amp to drive the SRD-7. 

 I was just in your neck of the woods three weeks ago - could've brought some Stax gear for you to try out. Next time._

 

Ah, that would have been cool! Deep south super mini-meet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 krmathis: I believe the mk2 is an export only model, so I wouldn't expect it to show up on any of our direct-from-japan websites. I could be wrong on this though.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis: I believe the mk2 is an export only model, so I wouldn't expect it to show up on any of our direct-from-japan websites. I could be wrong on this though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Shame if the mk2 are an export version only.

 Cause the Stax prices around here (Norway) are hilarious. The SR-007 (not mk2) retails for USD 4000 (NOK 21879), while it can be had from Japan for ~$1500. So no way in h*** I will buy one locally! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Guess we just have to wait and see...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shame if the mk2 are an export version only.

 Cause the Stax prices around here (Norway) are hilarious. The SR-007 (not mk2) retails for USD 4000 (NOK 21879), while it can be had from Japan for ~$1500. So no way in h*** I will buy one locally! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Guess we just have to wait and see..._

 

According to EIFL the Mk2 will be a export only model. I'm not sure if this will include the silver version, as that is probably designed for the domestic market, but the black is export only.


----------



## Faust2D

Do you think prices for Mk1 will start going down to clear out the stock?


----------



## spritzer

I doubt it. Stax doesn't have much extra stock as they sell just about as much as they can produce but some retailers might lower the prices.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_According to EIFL the Mk2 will be a export only model. I'm not sure if this will include the silver version, as that is probably designed for the domestic market, but the black is export only._

 

Lets hope Stax feel the mk2 are worthy on the Japanese market as well. Which they hopefully will if there are audible differences/improvements.

 Guess I have to stop by the local dealer one day then. Asking about more information about the mk2, and to see if we can agree on a deal. Got about 35% off from my current SR-007, so I know they are capable of lowering the price if they want..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you think prices for Mk1 will start going down to clear out the stock?_

 

Doubtful!
 Stax probably don't stock many of these expensive headphones anyway. Local dealers/distributors might lower the price when they get a stock of the SR-007mk2 though.


----------



## Faust2D

Maybe used prices will go down 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can be hopeful, can't I?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe used prices will go down 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can be hopeful, can't I?_

 

I am pretty sure the release of the SR-007mk2 will affect the used price on the SR-007.
 But most probably not for a while. Until the SR-007mk2 have hit the consumers on full level, and its verified if its a "real" update over the SR-007.

 Hopefully you will be able to score a pair some day!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lets hope Stax feel the mk2 are worthy on the Japanese market as well. Which they hopefully will if there are audible differences/improvements.

 Guess I have to stop by the local dealer one day then. Asking about more information about the mk2, and to see if we can agree on a deal. Got about 35% off from my current SR-007, so I know they are capable of lowering the price if they want.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've never been able to get a good answer on this but I think Japan will get a set that looks a lot like SR-007BL but with polished aluminum instead of black. I hope so at least but I'm tempted to get a black Mk2 after I get a new source. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe used prices will go down 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can be hopeful, can't I?_

 

They have already started to drop but mostly in Japan but that will spread. It will not be anything like if there was a new HD Senny though...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been able to get a good answer on this but I think Japan will get a set that looks a lot like SR-007BL but with polished aluminum instead of black. I hope so at least but I'm tempted to get a black Mk2 after I get a new source._

 

I am drawn to the all-black export (?) model as well.
 Since the polished version looks too much like my current SR-007BL. In addition that the black one looks damn nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 They have already started to drop but mostly in Japan but that will spread. It will not be anything like if there was a new HD Senny though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Sennheiser HE100 anyone?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're certainly not the only one looking.
 Its hopefully just a matter of days before it comes available through PriceJapan, Audio Cubes II and EIFL._

 

I was told that the Black is export only. In Japan it will be Silver, but not until December. Silver should be available for export, but not till next year. In USA the mk2 is priced the same as the SR-007.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that the Black is export only. In Japan it will be Silver, but not until December. Silver should be available for export, but not till next year. In USA the mk2 is priced the same as the SR-007._

 

This is actually a pretty smart marketing move as silver gear doesn't sell all that well in the US while it is a clear necessity in Japan market. I wonder if the 4070 will see a face lift as well as the arc assembly uses the same finish as the SR-007...?


----------



## jjhatfield

Quick update: the MK2 will be priced the same as the now OOP 007 at Elusive Disc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 $2000.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if the 4070 will see a face lift as well as the arc assembly uses the same finish as the SR-007...?_

 

Oh, thats true.
 Maybe we can expect a 4070mk2 as well... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick update: the MK2 will be priced the same as the now OOP 007 at Elusive Disc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 $2000._

 

Not too bad priced.
 I will keep it in mind if the local dealer wont give me a great deal.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, thats true.
 Maybe we can expect a 4070mk2 as well... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If they get of their collective asses and have some leather pads made I'll buy another one.


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally posted by jjhatfield
 For those without an local dealer, Elusive Disc will be getting their shipment of MK2 in early next week. I've asked them for a price quote. 
 

As it turns out my SR007's still have the channel imbalance after about an hour of playing from fully discharged.

 I was on the Elusive Disc site last night and they now have the MK2 listed as in-stock for the same price as the earlier version. I ordered a pair. Now except for the grille they'll match my Blue Hawaii


----------



## luvdunhill

Stax ... new FOTM? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 seems like a lot of buzz around Stax these days!


----------



## Faust2D

Sure looks like it, but I will bet there were waves of Stax frenzy before as well. People reach this critical point with dynamic headphones and want to try the "other" thing.


----------



## krmathis

Say "Hi" to my latest addition. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A well taken cared of SR-404...


----------



## spritzer

Damn that means the prices are on their way upwards again... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Congrats on the "new" 404's Kai but those pictures make me sad as my 404 is out on loan...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax ... new FOTM? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 seems like a lot of buzz around Stax these days!_

 

Sure looks like it.
 Which I think is great. Since more people need to get their eyes open to electrostatic headphones. With the downside that used gear will be more expensive.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the "new" 404's Kai but those pictures make me sad as my 404 is out on loan... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks!
 Been a long time (around 1 year) since last time I listened to an SR-404, so it should be fun to try them again. They just need a full charge...


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Say "Hi" to my latest addition. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A well taken cared of SR-404...



_

 

Sweet! I really miss my pair. How does the Lambda Pro compare? I'm thinking of buying a pair of Pros, but worried that I might like the SR-404 more!


----------



## ferraro25

*More questions about the SRS-2050II System. I decided to bold the most important parts.* I cannot yet afford this setup since I am still waiting on a temporary job to start. I have read the whole thread (except for the more technical stuff) and have some expectations based on what I have read, but I would still like some comments on my questions.

*My experience with headphones thus far has been limited to dynamics and IEMs of no better than upper-mid-fi quality, powered with either a crappy portable amp* (an older "Xenos" 0-HsomethingOrOther that I no longer use) *or the E-MU 0404 USB's built-in headphone amp.* So, I haven't properly amped any of my headphones, nor have I ever heard a good headphone setup. I also have not heard high-end speakers. *Basically, I have never heard hi-fi audio.*

*Given this, is there more of a chance I'm going to be extremely impressed with the 2050?* I'm aware that no one will know how I will react to the 2050, but I can state that *I most value detail (I'm including texture, microdynamics, etc. in this), instrument separation, a close-to-neutral or slightly bright frequency spectrum balance, and at least decent accuracy. I do not care for heavy bass, strong impact, and a "non-airy" sound.* My current favorite headphone, the K501, seems to offer a decent sense of "airiness" and good accuracy, but lacks detail (once again I'm including texture, etc.), doesn't have great instrument separation, and has slightly too little bass with poor extension. From what I've read, I'm assuming that the 2050 will help fix all of these flaws and offer a much higher-quality sound overall.

*Also, I have read that the opinion of some is that IEMs offer electrostatic-like qualities, like extreme speed and high detail, but I would assume that a decent electrostatic is significantly better at keeping detail when there are tons of things happening* - or at least better than the mid- and lower-end IEMs that have a single armature. *For example, my Etymotic ER-4P gives me details in solo bass lines that just plainly don't exist in any of my dynamic headphones, but as soon as other instruments join in, the detail disappears and things start to mesh together like in dynamic headphones.* In fact, the ER-4P is pretty poor when it comes to dealing with "complex passages." *The obvious question here, then, is will the 2050 offer that detail even when a lot is going on at once (limited by the recording, my source, and my ears & brain, of course)?* That is one of the things I want most out of headphone listening; I am really getting tired of things becoming a horrible mess of sound as soon as things get going (slight exaggeration).

*I would like to state that I am not interested in buying any other electrostatic headphones or amps, am not interested in upgrading to a quality dynamic amp* (not that I'll get such a suggestion in an electrostatic thread, heh),* and am not currently willing to upgrade my source, so no suggestions.* The SRS-2050II System is the only thing I'm considering.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet! I really miss my pair. How does the Lambda Pro compare? I'm thinking of buying a pair of Pros, but worried that I might like the SR-404 more!_

 

Well, they just arrived some 5 hours ago.
 I've heard the SR-404 at multiple occasions before, but never spent much time with them. Should be fun to do a real Lambda Pro <-> SR-404 comparison.


----------



## audiod

My new SR-007mk2 just arrived. There is not much different in appearance. The outer trim ring is now black brushed aluminum, the screen is black, where the wire attaches to the phone is different and the earpad seems to be a different material and is rounder looking. I will have more detail later.

 My KGSS also arrived. It’s big and beautiful. Nicely made inside.

 This weekend was going to be dedicated to headphone listening, but I got a bad head cold and my ears are plugged. My Luck! 

 I’ve included a few pix.

 Audiod


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*More questions about the SRS-2050II System. I decided to bold the most important parts.* I cannot yet afford this setup since I am still waiting on a temporary job to start. I have read the whole thread (except for the more technical stuff) and have some expectations based on what I have read, but I would still like some comments on my questions.

*My experience with headphones thus far has been limited to dynamics and IEMs of no better than upper-mid-fi quality, powered with either a crappy portable amp* (an older "Xenos" 0-HsomethingOrOther that I no longer use) *or the E-MU 0404 USB's built-in headphone amp.* So, I haven't properly amped any of my headphones, nor have I ever heard a good headphone setup. I also have not heard high-end speakers. *Basically, I have never heard hi-fi audio.*

*Given this, is there more of a chance I'm going to be extremely impressed with the 2050?* I'm aware that no one will know how I will react to the 2050, but I can state that *I most value detail (I'm including texture, microdynamics, etc. in this), instrument separation, a close-to-neutral or slightly bright frequency spectrum balance, and at least decent accuracy. I do not care for heavy bass, strong impact, and a "non-airy" sound.* My current favorite headphone, the K501, seems to offer a decent sense of "airiness" and good accuracy, but lacks detail (once again I'm including texture, etc.), doesn't have great instrument separation, and has slightly too little bass with poor extension. From what I've read, I'm assuming that the 2050 will help fix all of these flaws and offer a much higher-quality sound overall.

*Also, I have read that the opinion of some is that IEMs offer electrostatic-like qualities, like extreme speed and high detail, but I would assume that a decent electrostatic is significantly better at keeping detail when there are tons of things happening* - or at least better than the mid- and lower-end IEMs that have a single armature. *For example, my Etymotic ER-4P gives me details in solo bass lines that just plainly don't exist in any of my dynamic headphones, but as soon as other instruments join in, the detail disappears and things start to mesh together like in dynamic headphones.* In fact, the ER-4P is pretty poor when it comes to dealing with "complex passages." *The obvious question here, then, is will the 2050 offer that detail even when a lot is going on at once (limited by the recording, my source, and my ears & brain, of course)?* That is one of the things I want most out of headphone listening; I am really getting tired of things becoming a horrible mess of sound as soon as things get going (slight exaggeration).

*I would like to state that I am not interested in buying any other electrostatic headphones or amps, am not interested in upgrading to a quality dynamic amp* (not that I'll get such a suggestion in an electrostatic thread, heh),* and am not currently willing to upgrade my source, so no suggestions.* The SRS-2050II System is the only thing I'm considering._

 

Don't think that you will be easily impressed by the Stax or any other headphone setup. It's much better to have normal expectations and let them surprise you rather then be disappointed. 

 I believe that the 2050 setup would be a good candidate for your needs as they do detail very well and especially not getting confused and congested when there is a lot going on. While the source is less the optimal other members have used it and been happy so if you like the Stax you can always get a dac later.


----------



## krmathis

ferraro25. From what you write, and what you value in music reproduction, a pair of Stax seems to be the ideal headphone for you.
 Cause electrostatics forté are speed, accuracy, and lots of details.

 The SRS-2050II is the entry level full size Stax system, and might be their best value for money system as well (sound quality vs. money ratio). So its a great way to enter the world of electrostatic headphones.


 By the way, where are you located?
 Perhaps there are a Stax dealer in your area, or even a friendly Head-Fi users with a Lambda system. That way you can try it out before buying.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My new SR-007mk2 just arrived. There is not much different in appearance. The outer trim ring is now black brushed aluminum, the screen is black, where the wire attaches to the phone is different and the earpad seems to be a different material and is rounder looking. I will have more detail later.

 My KGSS also arrived. It’s big and beautiful. Nicely made inside.

 This weekend was going to be dedicated to headphone listening, but I got a bad head cold and my ears are plugged. My Luck! 

 I’ve included a few pix.

 Audiod
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

You rock!!! The pads look pretty similar to the SR-Ω pads in design and I'm sure that many will be pleased. Since you have a cold then just let them run in for a while... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Damn I need a set....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My new SR-007mk2 just arrived. There is not much different in appearance. The outer trim ring is now black brushed aluminum, the screen is black, where the wire attaches to the phone is different and the earpad seems to be a different material and is rounder looking. I will have more detail later.

 My KGSS also arrived. It’s big and beautiful. Nicely made inside.

 This weekend was going to be dedicated to headphone listening, but I got a bad head cold and my ears are plugged. My Luck! 

 I’ve included a few pix.

 Audiod
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

*Congratulations!*




 As expected there are no major external differences, except for the black colored chassis that is. And the pads and cable/chassic connection..

 Sadly you've got a cold. Since the most important part are how they sound.
 Get well fast, and let the mk2's run in the meantime.


----------



## spritzer

Now that I've looked the pictures over they are certainly borrowing from the SR-Ω. The pads are very similar in shape but better, much better made and the cable entry is pretty similar. 

 Doug, can you take a picture of the angle of the pads as I'd like to see if they copied that too?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've looked the pictures over they are certainly borrowing from the SR-Ω. The pads are very similar in shape but better, much better made and the cable entry is pretty similar. 

 Doug, can you take a picture of the angle of the pads as I'd like to see if they copied that too?_

 

They have roughly the same angle as the 007. I will post pix later.


----------



## milkpowder

It's a shame Stax have done away with the champagne gold colour scheme 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyway, nice 'phones audiod.

 When are you getting yours, spritzer?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a shame Stax have done away with the champagne gold colour scheme 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, nice 'phones audiod._

 

You might like the champagne color, while other prefer silver/black.
 I guess its hard for Stax to satisfy everyone. This time they had to redo the chassis, and went from champagne to silver/black.

 If you don't like the SR-007mk2 colors, you can alway buy an SR-007. Pehaps even a BL one...


----------



## ferraro25

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_Don't think that you will be easily impressed by the Stax or any other headphone setup. It's much better to have normal expectations and let them surprise you rather then be disappointed.

 I believe that the 2050 setup would be a good candidate for your needs as they do detail very well and especially not getting confused and congested when there is a lot going on. While the source is less the optimal other members have used it and been happy so if you like the Stax you can always get a dac later._

 

Good advice. I realize that it is better to have lower expectations, but I find it difficult to not hype myself up for a new headphone purchase. I usually love any new headphone when I first get it. It isn't until later that I start to dislike it, perhaps even to the point where I end up trashing it (on head-fi). I really, really liked the K701 at some point, for instance, but now all I hear from that headphone is its lack of lower-midrange and the messed-up sibilance. So, for me, there is a big danger of focusing only on the negatives of headphones. The K501 is the one headphone of which I almost never find myself focusing on the negative aspects of the sound. I hope my reaction to the 2050II will be the same, and I think it will, given what I like.

 Yup, my source isn't all that great. I also have a LiTe DAC-AH, but it has way too much harmonic distortion to use it over the 0404 USB. I probably will upgrade to a quality DAC if I think that the 2050II is being held back too much by the 0404.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ferraro25. From what you write, and what you value in music reproduction, a pair of Stax seems to be the ideal headphone for you.
 Cause electrostatics forté are speed, accuracy, and lots of details.

 The SRS-2050II is the entry level full size Stax system, and might be their best value for money system as well (sound quality vs. money ratio). So its a great way to enter the world of electrostatic headphones.


 By the way, where are you located?
 Perhaps there are a Stax dealer in your area, or even a friendly Head-Fi users with a Lambda system. That way you can try it out before buying._

 

I have been planning to purchase an SRS-2050II for the last couple of weeks. As far as I know, there are no hi-fi stores that have Stax in my area. I've decided to buy from elusivedisc: $650 + no shipping charge for first-time customers. Pricejapan would be ~$170 cheaper (including voltage transformer to correct for U.S. power, bought from somewhere else) but I would not have a warranty and I could not return it if I end up not liking the 2050.

 And I realize that the Stax will be very detailed, accurate, and fast. I just felt like asking some specific questions because I wanted to see more talk about the 2050II system, since it is frequently on my mind but I am not yet able to purchase it (waiting on a job to start). Hopefully I will be able to buy it within the next couple of weeks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They have roughly the same angle as the 007. I will post pix later._

 

Thanks for that. All and any pictures will help me hold off buying for a little while longer or until I find a new source. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a shame Stax have done away with the champagne gold colour scheme 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, nice 'phones audiod.

 When are you getting yours, spritzer?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm trying to hold off until I find a new source. I'm finally getting a new drive for the G08 so I can sell it and a bunch of other stuff I never ever use and get a kick ass source. My resistance may prove to be futile but I can wait a month or so. It would be a very nice xmas present... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good advice. I realize that it is better to have lower expectations, but I find it difficult to not hype myself up for a new headphone purchase. I usually love any new headphone when I first get it. It isn't until later that I start to dislike it, perhaps even to the point where I end up trashing it (on head-fi). I really, really liked the K701 at some point, for instance, but now all I hear from that headphone is its lack of lower-midrange and the messed-up sibilance. So, for me, there is a big danger of focusing only on the negatives of headphones. The K501 is the one headphone of which I almost never find myself focusing on the negative aspects of the sound. I hope my reaction to the 2050II will be the same, and I think it will, given what I like.

 Yup, my source isn't all that great. I also have a LiTe DAC-AH, but it has way too much harmonic distortion to use it over the 0404 USB. I probably will upgrade to a quality DAC if I think that the 2050II is being held back too much by the 0404._

 

It's pretty hard to evaluate a new "toy" with an open mind but it sucks even more when they don't stack up. I doubt you will be disappointed in the 2050 unless you are expecting bass slam or some euphonic mess of a soundstage. There is plenty of bass and the soundstage is huge but it's pretty different from the dynamic counterparts.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet! I really miss my pair. How does the Lambda Pro compare? I'm thinking of buying a pair of Pros, but worried that I might like the SR-404 more!_

 

You want to go with something juxtaposed and complimentary to the HE60!

 No more lambda variants! You need to go with a Gamma, SRX, Jecklin or best yet the big O2.

 Big O2 = 1 better than Big O.


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good advice. I realize that it is better to have lower expectations, but I find it difficult to not hype myself up for a new headphone purchase. I usually love any new headphone when I first get it. It isn't until later that I start to dislike it, perhaps even to the point where I end up trashing it (on head-fi). I really, really liked the K701 at some point, for instance, but now all I hear from that headphone is its lack of lower-midrange and the messed-up sibilance. So, for me, there is a big danger of focusing only on the negatives of headphones. The K501 is the one headphone of which I almost never find myself focusing on the negative aspects of the sound. I hope my reaction to the 2050II will be the same, and I think it will, given what I like.

 Yup, my source isn't all that great. I also have a LiTe DAC-AH, but it has way too much harmonic distortion to use it over the 0404 USB. I probably will upgrade to a quality DAC if I think that the 2050II is being held back too much by the 0404.


 I have been planning to purchase an SRS-2050II for the last couple of weeks. As far as I know, there are no hi-fi stores that have Stax in my area. I've decided to buy from elusivedisc: $650 + no shipping charge for first-time customers. Pricejapan would be ~$170 cheaper (including voltage transformer to correct for U.S. power, bought from somewhere else) but I would not have a warranty and I could not return it if I end up not liking the 2050.

 And I realize that the Stax will be very detailed, accurate, and fast. I just felt like asking some specific questions because I wanted to see more talk about the 2050II system, since it is frequently on my mind but I am not yet able to purchase it (waiting on a job to start). Hopefully I will be able to buy it within the next couple of weeks._

 

I think you'll be very happy with the SRS-2050 system based on the preferences you described in the earlier posting. Stax systems tend to be very detailed, clean, and tonally accurate. I have some ER4-P/Ss and hadn't listened to them for several weeks until yesterday. I was amazed at the amount of additional detail I get from my Stax system.

 I think one of the problems with this hobby is that nothing blows you away for a long time -- we all tend to be on the eternal quest for perfection. While the 2050 may not be perfect, it is a tremendous value. I also think you'll find it the most involving system you've heard. Stax systems tend to get out of the way and make the music take the front stage.

 Enjoy!


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My new SR-007mk2 just arrived. There is not much different in appearance. The outer trim ring is now black brushed aluminum, the screen is black, where the wire attaches to the phone is different and the earpad seems to be a different material and is rounder looking. I will have more detail later.

 My KGSS also arrived. It’s big and beautiful. Nicely made inside.

 This weekend was going to be dedicated to headphone listening, but I got a bad head cold and my ears are plugged. My Luck! 

 I’ve included a few pix.

 Audiod
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 


 I like the look of the new pads a lot, looks like they shoudl have a smidgin more comfort than the Mk1 pad. However I by far and away prefer the look of the Mk1 Black and even the Mk1 gold. The new look isnt floating my boat at all.

 Will the new Mk2 pads fit the Mk1? Ill need to replace my pads within the next few months and it would make sense for Stax to make the new pads a (better) option for the Mk1 owners.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...

 Doug, can you take a picture of the angle of the pads as I'd like to see if they copied that too?_

 

Another Doug! Ye gods!


----------



## Duggeh

Just realised that I got reply 4040, which is a Stax number. Pwn.


----------



## Faust2D

They look very similar to me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now a little distraction from omega 2 Mk2. 

 I am listening to this combo and I think a found a sweet spot for my headphones setup:

* Pioneer PD-65* -> [optical glass cable] -> *Museatex Bitstream DAC* -> [DNM RCA cables] -> *SRM-1/Mk-2* -> *SR-Lambda / SR-303

*Soundstage is spectacular; highs, mids and bass is great. I am one happy dude. This is the best sounding Stax setup that I was able to put using my gear and not sacrificing any of my speaker setups.


----------



## WittyzTH

I'm also looking for Stax SR2050 system as well. I've heard the Omega II it sounds great - lot of details and very transparent, but I don't have that much money to purchase it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My budget is enough for the SR2050 only. Is it worth to purchase this combo? and can anybody compare this combo to the Audio Technica W5000s esp. about the details?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will the new Mk2 pads fit the Mk1? Ill need to replace my pads within the next few months and it would make sense for Stax to make the new pads a (better) option for the Mk1 owners._

 

I would like to know this as well.
 Because I've been unable to get spare pads for my SR-007BL, it would be great if the SR-007mk2 pads fit right on. My pads are far from worn out though, so no rush.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am listening to this combo and I think a found a sweet spot for my headphones setup:

* Pioneer PD-65* -> [optical glass cable] -> *Museatex Bitstream DAC* -> [DNM RCA cables] -> *SRM-1/Mk-2* -> *SR-Lambda / SR-303

*Soundstage is spectacular; highs, mids and bass is great. I am one happy dude. This is the best sounding Stax setup that I was able to put using my gear and not sacrificing any of my speaker setups. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That sure looks like a nice setup.
 The SRM-1/MK2 is a great little amplifier. Which imo sounds very good with one of the Lambda's.

 Enjoy!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No more lambda variants! You need to go with a Gamma, SRX, Jecklin or best yet the big O2.

 Big O2 = 1 better than Big O. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You've got that right! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the look of the new pads a lot, looks like they shoudl have a smidgin more comfort than the Mk1 pad. However I by far and away prefer the look of the Mk1 Black and even the Mk1 gold. The new look isnt floating my boat at all.

 Will the new Mk2 pads fit the Mk1? Ill need to replace my pads within the next few months and it would make sense for Stax to make the new pads a (better) option for the Mk1 owners._

 

I'll bother Koji and see if he can't send me a set along with my usual quarterly earpad shipment.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will the new Mk2 pads fit the Mk1?_

 

From looking at both phones directly it sure looks like they will.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* Pioneer PD-65* -> [optical glass cable] -> *Museatex Bitstream DAC* -> [DNM RCA cables] -> *SRM-1/Mk-2* -> *SR-Lambda / SR-303*_*
*
*


The Pioneer PD-65 makes a great transport. Try using the coax digital out. The old toslink optical is not a good system. The circuits that convert electrical>light and light>electrical are not good designs.*


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pioneer PD-65 makes a great transport. Try using the coax digital out. The old toslink optical is not a good system. The circuits that convert electrical>light and light>electrical are not good designs._

 

I used both and to my surprise the toslink sounds better, go figure. In my other setup coax sounds way better but here that is not the case
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I need a better coax cable, who knows..


----------



## SteveA

Hi All!

 I’m kinda at a crossroads. Bear with me here for a moment until I get to the STAX content!

 I’ve been a headphone fan since the late 1960s when I bought a pair of Koss K-6 cans to use when playing my drums along with records. I’ve bought and used many along the way but am currently using Sennheiser HD600s driven by a MAD Ear+ for listening after hours at work. I also use Etymotic ER-4 for my Nano on the road and sometimes with the Ear+.

 Well the stock cable on the Senns has gone belly-up. I can either buy a replacement stock cable or a pricey Stefan Audio or Cardas cable. But sorry, I have trouble spending $200 for a piece of wire. This is a personal thing with no disrespect to those with more discriminating ears than I that can hear the difference. In fairness, I’ve never heard them side by side so I am not in a position to render judgment based on facts.

 This plus the upgrade bug got me thinking: Is it time for STAX? I bought a pair of the SR-40 electrets years ago and used them off an on until a few years back driven by an old Advent receiver. The sound was pretty good but they were fairly uncomfortable. I liked the speed and dynamics but felt they suffered a little in the low end.

 I could spare around $2K for this adventure. For this money, I could purchase a stock replacement cable for the Senns and serious amp upgrade to a Zana Deux, Singlepower Extreme, or used CARY 300SEI and retire the Ear+ to occasional home use. OR, I could buy a STAX SR-404. I have not heard nor do I have a dealer close to audition the latest STAX offerings for comparison purposes. The SRM-006 would be less obtrusive on my desk than those other amps. And leakage is not a problem as my listening occurs after most have left for the day.

 I welcome advice, criticism, and words of wisdom from Head-Fiers with relevant experience.

 Best regards,
 Steve


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From looking at both phones directly it sure looks like they will._

 

Cool! That adds another variable to try out. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pioneer PD-65 makes a great transport. Try using the coax digital out. The old toslink optical is not a good system. The circuits that convert electrical>light and light>electrical are not good designs._

 

Coax is better for sure but the RCA connectors can create a pretty big impedance mismatch that will cause a reflection in the cable.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pioneer PD-65 makes a great transport. Try using the coax digital out. The old toslink optical is not a good system. The circuits that convert electrical>light and light>electrical are not good designs._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coax is better for sure but the RCA connectors can create a pretty big impedance mismatch that will cause a reflection in the cable._

 

You're both wrong. 

 Well, spritzer is only half wrong. You could get some reflection, but not likely enough to flip a whole bit. 

 Fiber transcievers work fine for multi-gigabit network communications but somehow they're not good enough for the dog-slow data rates of digital audio? You're dreaming.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're both wrong. 

 Well, spritzer is only half wrong. You could get some reflection, but not likely enough to flip a whole bit. 

 Fiber transcievers work fine for multi-gigabit network communications but somehow they're not good enough for the dog-slow data rates of digital audio? You're dreaming._

 

It's not the transmission system that is flawed but how it is converted into light. There is a reason why none of the high end transports use(d) the Toslink system but instead used the AT&T one. There is one thing that should not be forgotten that computer data transfer isn't as sensitive as audio devices and the audio error compensation is crap and will lead to a much lowered sound quality. 

 RCA is a crap choice for a digital connectors as there is only one socket and plug combo that works for a 75ohm interface while this is what BNC was designed for. You are going by the assumption that you need to loose a bit and if the transport is bit-perfect you won't hear any difference but that's very, very far from the truth. Even minute timing errors or impedance errors can have a pretty dramatic effect and add that to everything else the transport is piping through the digital output.


----------



## Faust2D

I really never cared about theory that much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I listen and pick what I like, I could not care less why one is better than the other. In this setup I like fiber better. In my DIY DAC I like coax better. Trust your ears and forget the price tag and all the scientific and pseudo scientific BS.


----------



## krmathis

Fiber optical works for me as well.
 But my gear don't accept any other digital connection, so I have not been able to compare with ex. coax.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're both wrong. 

 Well, spritzer is only half wrong. You could get some reflection, but not likely enough to flip a whole bit. 

 Fiber transcievers work fine for multi-gigabit network communications but somehow they're not good enough for the dog-slow data rates of digital audio? You're dreaming._

 

The vast majority of the audio industry can’t all be wrong (engineers and consumers). Remember were talking about the Toslink optical interface not other kinds. It has been disliked since the mid to late eighties. As I remember it was designed by Toshiba to connect a CD player to a receiver. I don’t remember it being used for data communication. The AT&T ST optical link was the standard used by High-End audio companies until it was discontinued by AT&T years ago. This continued discussion is not appropriate for the Stax forum.


----------



## JecklinStax

My SR-X Mk III with Omega pads is now on www.ebay.de


----------



## JecklinStax

More precisely:
 it's on 
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MESE:IT&ih=005


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The vast majority of the audio industry can’t all be wrong (engineers and consumers). Remember were talking about the Toslink optical interface not other kinds. It has been disliked since the mid to late eighties. As I remember it was designed by Toshiba to connect a CD player to a receiver. I don’t remember it being used for data communication. The AT&T ST optical link was the standard used by High-End audio companies until it was discontinued by AT&T years ago. This continued discussion is not appropriate for the Stax forum._

 

You know that toslink and coax spdif cary the exact same signal, right? 

 Literally comes off the same wire.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know that toslink and coax spdif cary the exact same signal, right? 

 Literally comes off the same wire._

 

yes, but that doesn't mean the same receivers are used on the other end however. Honestly, both are compromises in my opinion. For lowest jitter, i2s is the only way to go.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know that toslink and coax spdif cary the exact same signal, right? 

 Literally comes off the same wire._

 

Most audiophiles like the sound of their digital equipment connected by coax better than Toslink. Many years ago Robert Harley of Stereophile wrote a long article on the effects of Jitter in the datastream on sound quality. He wanted to know if it could be correlated with measurements. He found some substantial measurable differences in coax vs. Toslink. You should see if you can find the article. It was back in the early nineties.

 Enough said, Please


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know that toslink and coax spdif cary the exact same signal, right? 

 Literally comes off the same wire._

 

Of course it's the same signal but it goes into the toslink transmitter and then into the receiver at the other end. Both are horrible units


----------



## Faust2D

What have I started 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On many occasions I heard very good DACs and sources with coax and with fiber. In one system one sounds better in the some systems another one. It's all dependent on the toslink receivers/transmitter in DAC source and coax layout as well. Also wires play a big role, so this argument is pointless. I guess my Museatex DAC hase a good toslink in. Lets all enjoy Stax discussions and argue about normal and high bias LOL


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What have I started 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Lets all enjoy Stax discussions and argue about normal and high bias LOL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That sounds more on track.

 Alright, I'd suggest Lambda as best Normal Bias I've heard and O1 as best Pro Bias (although Spritzer's many previous comments on the strengths of the O2 are to be acknowledged - it's far and away the best current production Pro Bias Stax).


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess my Museatex DAC hase a good toslink in._

 

cool, we have the same DAC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My guess is you don't have all the current upgrades to your unit ...


----------



## ueyteuor

hey guys what kind of interconnect cables do you guys use for your stax amp to source connection? silver or copper?? whats the best for stax, or is this question dumb?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, I'd suggest Lambda as best Normal Bias I've heard and O1 as best Pro Bias (although Spritzer's many previous comments on the strengths of the O2 are to be acknowledged - it's far and away the best current production Pro Bias Stax)._

 

Damn! You're just putting more wood on the SR-Omega fire with a statement like that. Shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 I _really_ need to hear (or own) the SR-Omega soon...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys what kind of interconnect cables do you guys use for your stax amp to source connection? silver or copper?? whats the best for stax, or is this question dumb?_

 

I use a cryogenic treated silver cable, with natural isolation (cotton I think).
 A balanced (XLR) Ridge Street Audio Designs Poiema!!! Signature to be precise. In my opinion Stax gear really enjoy pure silver in the signal path.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That sounds more on track.

 Alright, I'd suggest Lambda as best Normal Bias I've heard and O1 as best Pro Bias (although Spritzer's many previous comments on the strengths of the O2 are to be acknowledged - it's far and away the best current production Pro Bias Stax)._

 

The SR-Ω sure is great and it gets even better with new earpads. The atmospheric quality they reproduce is stunning and so is the bass but they can't extend like the SR-007 and the bass is slightly overblown compared to the SR-007. Both are certainly better then the HE90 and I could be happy with either one. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys what kind of interconnect cables do you guys use for your stax amp to source connection? silver or copper?? whats the best for stax, or is this question dumb?_

 

Only silver here but you have to be careful as to what silver is used. Many manufacturers use the cheapest wire they can source and that often sounds like crap. Bright, edgy and uneven while a good silver wire is none of that and much smoother and extended then any copper can be.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a cryogenic treated silver cable_

 

In Norway, "cryogenically treated" means it got left outside in the mailbox overnight in mid-February.


----------



## piotr z

good one


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In Norway, "cryogenically treated" means it got left outside in the mailbox overnight in mid-February._

 

He he 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Well, not quite. Even if the temperature around Oslo can reach down to minus 20 degrees celsius in January/February.


----------



## piotr z

--> but I'm really interested in your IC design and the type of silver that You've used


----------



## piotr z

that was to spitzer of course


----------



## spritzer

I use a custom drawn silver that a friend of a friend had made for him. The wires are 28 or 30AWG and I put them in two cotton sleeves and then they are spiraled around a center tube and then they are terminated in silver Bullets. This cable is extremely light and flexible though some of the first prototypes had some issues with durability due to the fragile wire inside but that's been solved now with a better strain relief.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys what kind of interconnect cables do you guys use for your stax amp to source connection? silver or copper?? whats the best for stax, or is this question dumb?_

 

What's your budget? I'm planning on trying Kubala-Sonsa, Audience, RSAD, and Synergistic Research.


----------



## naamanf

So any first reports on how the Mk2 Omega is compared to the 02?


----------



## xenithon

I just recently jointed the Stax club with the acquisition of an SR-007 and SRM-717. My head is still in a bit of a spin and I and thoroughly enjoying these newfound pieces of audio artistry.

 Jumping directly onto the bandwagon though, I had one question pertaining to the SRM-717:

 - I currently feed the signal from my DAC to my Headamp GS-1, and then via the loop out to the SRM-717 (so that I can use the Stax even with the GS-1 turned off).
 - I read about the SRM-717's "active bypass" feature which allows it to effectively be run as a power amp, using a separate pre-amp. 
 - My question is: has anyone done so, and have you noticed a change/improvement/degradation? The GS-1 has both loop outs and active pre-outs and is said to be a very good pre-amp in its own right. 
 - I am not sure which specs to looks at to determine compatibility, but all the GS-1 specs can be seen here.

 Cheers,
 X

 PS.....a glamour shot


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- My question is: has anyone done so, and have you noticed a change/improvement/degradation? The GS-1 has both loop outs and active pre-outs and is said to be a very good pre-amp in its own right. _

 

I've run SRM-717 with volume control bypass and Lavry DA10 - can't say there was a great deal of difference. 

 It's worthwhile to remember that unless you have a GS-1 with stepped attenuator upgrade, it uses the same Alps potentiometer as the Stax.


----------



## xenithon

Much appreciated and point duly taken. The GS-1 does indeed have the Alps pot...I also assume that the 717's bypass is best used with the likes of a tube preamp to get some tube sound (without having to change to the 007t).


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a custom drawn silver that a friend of a friend had made for him. The wires are 28 or 30AWG and I put them in two cotton sleeves and then they are spiraled around a center tube and then they are terminated in silver Bullets. This cable is extremely light and flexible though some of the first prototypes had some issues with durability due to the fragile wire inside but that's been solved now with a better strain relief._

 

Speaking of fragile I use Omega Mikro ICs, they sound very nice but are so fragile and stiff I am afraid to use them in any kind of space restricted applications.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of fragile I use Omega Mikro ICs, they sound very nice but are so fragile and stiff I am afraid to use them in any kind of space restricted applications._

 

I hate fragile IC's so I solved it on mine by coupling the wire better to the center tube and plenty of heat shrink for strain relief. The cable it self is pretty strong but it's hard to couple the cable to the connectors effectively.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Much appreciated and point duly taken. The GS-1 does indeed have the Alps pot...I also assume that the 717's bypass is best used with the likes of a tube preamp to get some tube sound (without having to change to the 007t)._

 

Hi X

 I have tried the bypass function. But as far as I could establish you don´t bypass any of the amplification stages of the 717. Only the pot is bypassed.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_cool, we have the same DAC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My guess is you don't have all the current upgrades to your unit ..._

 

Not upgraded in any way, I heard an upgraded version and it quite a bit nicer. Museatex DACs sound very analog, I like them. 

 It's funny though that my DYI DAC sounds better (to my ears) in all aspects than both of them and many other DACs (Audio Note 2, 3, Museatex Bidat and some other that I compared). That is why it is in my main speaker system.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hate fragile IC's so I solved it on mine by coupling the wire better to the center tube and plenty of heat shrink for strain relief. The cable it self is pretty strong but it's hard to couple the cable to the connectors effectively._

 

I have to try some silver ICs with my Stax setup, for now I am happy with DNMs


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So any first reports on how the Mk2 Omega is compared to the 02?_

 

I have both, but I'm waiting for this darn head cold to clear.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi X

 I have tried the bypass function. But as far as I could establish you don´t bypass any of the amplification stages of the 717. Only the pot is bypassed.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

The switch is there to bypass the pot and nothing else. I guess it's main function is in studios and broadcast monitor rooms where the 717/727 is used quite a lot in Japan so you can control the volume externally. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have to try some silver ICs with my Stax setup, for now I am happy with DNMs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Chant with me... "I need silver in my life, I need silver in my life, I need silver in my life..."


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have both, but I'm waiting for this darn head cold to clear.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I wish you a fast recovery! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause we are "all" waiting on your SR-007 vs. SR-007mk2 impressions...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not upgraded in any way, I heard an upgraded version and it quite a bit nicer. Museatex DACs sound very analog, I like them. 

 It's funny though that my DYI DAC sounds better (to my ears) in all aspects than both of them and many other DACs (Audio Note 2, 3, Museatex Bidat and some other that I compared). That is why it is in my main speaker system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

In my opinion, Ed Meitner's old gear (and new!) is definitely up there as one of the best commercial DACs. With modifications, the older units climb to the top of the heap as the best IMHO (see Peter Daniel's modifications of the bidat at diyaudio, as well as John Wrights) However, I've recently been playing with i2s with the goal of getting rid of the toslink and coax receivers and improving jitter and the difference is amazing. I'm finishing a NOS DAC that does not require an analog filter, (i.e. the high-order analog filter that is commonly used) to avoid any phase alterations. In fact, my entire chain will be phase preserving (including speakers). I think eliminating the analog correction filter is key here along with a DC coupled output.

 I don't really listen to digital sources much, but once I start listening to Meitner's stuff, I get addicted and keep listening...

 Another nice upgrade for the Musaetex is James Moray's cables (PC and interconnects). But seriously, the factory upgrades that John does are down right amazing. Definitely worth the money. Even the optional Black Gate upgrade is worth it, but less so that the main upgrade.

 Is your DIY DAC running in non-oversampling mode?


----------



## audiod

I have been breaking in my new SR-007mk2 phones on my SRM-717 amp for about 40 hours. I have a head cold and my ears are just starting to clear. I did a quick comparison with my broken in SR-007’s. The SR-007mk2 are badly in need of more break in. There is no deep bass, the midbass is thin, the highs are more rolled off. The thing that is disturbing me is that they are considerably less efficient than the SR-007. To match levels I need to turn up the level quite a bit. I expected them to sound bad until they break in but I would think that they would be fully charged after 40 hours. I remember that my SR-007 came up to full efficiency in a few minutes. More to come…


----------



## piotr z

--> luvdunhill

 at the moment I'm using audiosector nos dac-1 - and it is the best source I've ever had in my system - it is tuned slightly towards bottom end with very smooth sound and good sound stage


----------



## audiod

I was told by the USA distributor that the Stax fart on the SR-007 is almost eliminated on the new mk2 version. I wonder if Stax increased the stator spacing to eliminate the fart. That would explain the drop in efficiently. Just thinking out loud…


----------



## krmathis

Wow! What are people thinking these days? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 For fun I watched this eBay auction: Stax Kopfhörer / Earspeaker SR-404 SR404 (aus SRS-4040). I was shocked when I saw that it just sold for €412 (equals $596). Which is pretty much insane, when a new pair can be had for $372 from PriceJapan.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is your DIY DAC running in non-oversampling mode?_

 

Yes and filter-less with p2p class A tube output stage. If you look in this thread I posted pics and specs. Here is the link.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told by the USA distributor that the Stax fart on the SR-007 is almost eliminated on the new mk2 version. I wonder if Stax increased the stator spacing to eliminate the fart. That would explain the drop in efficiently. Just thinking out loud…_

 

the drop in efficiently 






 What kind of amp does one need to make this new omega sing


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been breaking in my new SR-007mk2 phones on my SRM-717 amp for about 40 hours. I have a head cold and my ears are just starting to clear. I did a quick comparison with my broken in SR-007’s. The SR-007mk2 are badly in need of more break in. There is no deep bass, the midbass is thin, the highs are more rolled off. The thing that is disturbing me is that they are considerably less efficient than the SR-007. To match levels I need to turn up the level quite a bit. I expected them to sound bad until they break in but I would think that they would be fully charged after 40 hours. I remember that my SR-007 came up to full efficiency in a few minutes. More to come…
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

These are some pretty bad news. I hope it's just a charge issue and not something more permanent as I'd then have to step up my 845 amp plans. 

 The stator spacing would have no effect on the fart as it is just air rushing out of the cavity. I could have built in a gateway for the air to escape... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What sound to they make when you press the earpieces towards the head?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The thing that is disturbing me is that they are considerably less efficient than the SR-007. To match levels I need to turn up the level quite a bit._

 

Thats some bad news, if its not a temporary charge issue that is.
 Cause the SR-007 are hard to drive as is, if the mk2 have not been made even harder to drive...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been breaking in my new SR-007mk2 phones on my SRM-717 amp for about 40 hours. I have a head cold and my ears are just starting to clear. I did a quick comparison with my broken in SR-007’s. The SR-007mk2 are badly in need of more break in. There is no deep bass, the midbass is thin, the highs are more rolled off. The thing that is disturbing me is that they are considerably less efficient than the SR-007. To match levels I need to turn up the level quite a bit. I expected them to sound bad until they break in but I would think that they would be fully charged after 40 hours. I remember that my SR-007 came up to full efficiency in a few minutes. More to come…
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

From a state of complete discharge the O2 Mk1 takes an age to come back up to operating. I remember posting here my fears my set was damaged because I literally couldnt get any sound out of them after 2 weeks away. It took 24 hours for them to come back to life. I suppose its possible that your MK2 is still loading up.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *piotr z* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_--> luvdunhill

 at the moment I'm using audiosector nos dac-1 - and it is the best source I've ever had in my system - it is tuned slightly towards bottom end with very smooth sound and good sound stage_

 

yes, I really like this DAC as well. In fact, there is one for sale on diyaudio that I was considering buying, as I really miss it. It's a great size for a headphone rig as well. This is my favorite "budget" DAC by far. I hope you enjoy it. I have a feeling that perhaps vinyl might be in your future, once you hear a nice analog rig, you'll hear why


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes and filter-less with p2p class A tube output stage. If you look in this thread I posted pics and specs. Here is the link._

 

cool. Looks like it does have an analog filter, perhaps just a RC filter? Ask your buddy about it. Have you tried the CS8414 receiver?

 on second look, yeah analog filter and coupling capacitors.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From a state of complete discharge the O2 Mk1 takes an age to come back up to operating. I remember posting here my fears my set was damaged because I literally couldnt get any sound out of them after 2 weeks away. It took 24 hours for them to come back to life. I suppose its possible that your MK2 is still loading up._

 

I'm hoping this is indeed the case as the SR-007 under driven would have a uncontrolled and boomy bass coupled with rolled off highs.


----------



## Faust2D

No filters, we discussed the design in great details with him. The tube output stage works kinda as a natural filter, it has oil in paper output caps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 He tried all of the receivers compatible with TDA1450 and liked CS8412 more, due to it's simplicity. The receiver if you look closely is not socketed nor is in on the PCB, each leg is individually soldered with silver wire.


----------



## audiod

One thing that I’ve noticed about the SR-007mk2 is that the headband does not have the tension as the 007 and the earpad material is a little stiffer and the contact area is rounded. It seems much more difficult to get them to make a good airtight seal. If the seal is broken the bass drops off fast. The 007’s make a good seal every time, I have to fiddle a lot with mk2 (near the back-bottom of the ear). I have both pads with the seam facing forward (I’ve tried different positions). To me the 007 are more comfortable and feel better attached to my head.

 I have to push the mk2 against my ears quite hard and fast to get the Stax fart. The 007 fart at a slight touch. 

 I switched to my new KGSS and when I play the 007 the volume is at 12 o’clock. To get the same volume on the mk2 I have to put the volume at 2 o’clock. The same mk2 problems I heard with using my 717 are transferred to the KGSS. At this point there is no contest (007 vs. mk2). It’s not even close. I hope that more breakin proves fruitful.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No filters, we discussed the design in great details with him. The tube output stage works kinda as a natural filter, it has oil in paper output caps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 He tried all of the receivers compatible with TDA1450 and liked CS8412 more, due to it's simplicity. The receiver if you look closely is not socketed nor is in on the PCB, each leg is individually soldered with silver wire. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

probably a semantic argument more than anything. I'm not referring to the oversampling filter, but to what happens after the I/V stage. I'm glad you're enjoying it!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing that I’ve noticed about the SR-007mk2 is that the headband does not have the tension as the 007 and the earpad material is a little stiffer and the contact area is rounded. It seems much more difficult to get them to make a good airtight seal. If the seal is broken the bass drops off fast. The 007’s make a good seal every time, I have to fiddle a lot with mk2 (near the back-bottom of the ear). I have both pads with the seam facing forward (I’ve tried different positions). To me the 007 are more comfortable and feel better attached to my head.

 I have to push the mk2 against my ears quite hard and fast to get the Stax fart. The 007 fart at a slight touch. 

 I switched to my new KGSS and when I play the 007 the volume is at 12 o’clock. To get the same volume on the mk2 I have to put the volume at 2 o’clock. The same mk2 problems I heard with using my 717 are transferred to the KGSS. At this point there is no contest (007 vs. mk2). It’s not even close. I hope that more breakin proves fruitful._

 

Thanks for the continued impressions. Have you tried moving the pads so the seem is pointing towards the temple as that gives me the best fit/bass. 

 The earpads are the cause of the fart as they are too airtight for their own good so they might have made them less airtight to get rid of it. When you remove the seal you should have mad bass so something could be wrong with the phones... How is the backwave? Try it with the other driver pointing in some other direction so you don't hear it as well.

 It could be that Stax have made some blunder in the design like they did with the 4070 but it was quickly revised.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the continued impressions. Have you tried moving the pads so the seem is pointing towards the temple as that gives me the best fit/bass. 

 The earpads are the cause of the fart as they are too airtight for their own good so they might have made them less airtight to get rid of it. When you remove the seal you should have mad bass so something could be wrong with the phones... How is the backwave? Try it with the other driver pointing in some other direction so you don't hear it as well.

 It could be that Stax have made some blunder in the design like they did with the 4070 but it was quickly revised._

 

The seam is towards by temple (forward). Because the thickness of the pad changes if I turn them to much in either direction I loose the seal near the lower back of my ear. The 007 has more tension so I can turn them without loosing the seal. You can set the mk2 on a table and the pads do not touch each other. I think that Stax needs to go back to the tension arcs of the 007.

 I'm finding some interesting differences in the 717 vs. KGSS, but more on that later.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_probably a semantic argument more than anything. I'm not referring to the oversampling filter, but to what happens after the I/V stage. I'm glad you're enjoying it!_

 

I am! But it really has not filters on the output or input stage, analog or digital. If you want more details PM me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The seam is towards by temple (forward). Because the thickness of the pad changes if I turn them to much in either direction I loose the seal near the lower back of my ear. The 007 has more tension so I can turn them without loosing the seal. You can set the mk2 on a table and the pads do not touch each other. I think that Stax needs to go back to the tension arcs of the 007.

 I'm finding some interesting differences in the 717 vs. KGSS, but more on that later._

 

You could just bend the metal arcs as most users do to get a better fit. I needed to loosen the Mk1 up a bit as the bass was to anemic.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing that I’ve noticed about the SR-007mk2 is that the headband does not have the tension as the 007 and the earpad material is a little stiffer and the contact area is rounded. It seems much more difficult to get them to make a good airtight seal. If the seal is broken the bass drops off fast. The 007’s make a good seal every time, I have to fiddle a lot with mk2 (near the back-bottom of the ear). I have both pads with the seam facing forward (I’ve tried different positions). To me the 007 are more comfortable and feel better attached to my head._

 

If the new pads are the cause of any seal problems I'll be sticking with the originals (assumign Stax do not simply replace them with the new ones), It took a long long time for me to get the fit and bend just as i like it and my vastly huge and oddly shaped skull made a good seal troublesome.


----------



## Fungi

http://avic.livedoor.biz/archives/50827937.html

 "Stax Earspeakers' top of the line STAX SR-007 gets a model change after 9 years!
 The new SR-007A is planned for release the end of this year or early next year, with a price tag of 210,000 yen (approx $1800) (stand sold separately).
 The biggest change is the earpad: the use of Spanish Lambskin enhances the bass clarity greatly. The outside is also changed to black from the original brown.
 The driver's specs are the same as the original.
 We are now accepting preorders, including trade-ins of headphone(s) you own. (This is a Fujiya offering, not STAX)"

 So there you have it folks. A change to the legendary Omega2 earspeaker.


----------



## spritzer

You can go here for some good pictures of the the new Mk2. The price is insane though...


----------



## pdennis

Disclaimer: I have never heard an electrostatic headphone, vintage or otherwise. I'm trying to figure out how to get the most bang for the buck out of an initial foray.

 Basically, I'm trying to decide whether I want to bother decoding the vintage Stax world. My default choice is the SRS-2050a, but since there's no US warranty on these (right?), that evens out the playing field a bit between the new and used equipment.

 Please help correct some of the observations I've made so far: electrostatic folks seem to be much more inclined than other audio subcultures to embrace vintage equipment. Perhaps well cared for 'stats don't degrade in the same way that cone speakers do? A certain percentage of 'stat users feel that Stax designers just "got it right" in the earlier years, in that some characteristics of vintage 'stats help to mitigate what some might seem as flaws in the character of Stax headphones in general (treble emphasis in some new models for example, anything else?). Pro bias models are considered to be much more desirable, with a few models particularly preferred (Lambda Sig, any others?).

 If that's in the ballpark, then my question is: where does the SR-202 fall on the spectra of a) clarity/detail, b) balanced frequency response, and c) soundstage characteristics, versus pro-bias vintage Stax in general? Are any of the pro-bias vintage phones considered "worse" than the modern Basic?

 Are the middle-of-the-line vintage Stax amplifiers considered to be comparable to their modern equivalents?

 Lastly, is the wikipedia table of Stax speakers close to accurate?

 Thanks in advance for your input, and for humoring a 'stat novice (Nova?) for asking a few questions that I know to be broad and controversial.


----------



## spritzer

We like the vintage stuff as most hi-fi gear was better made in the old days. The general sound signature took a turn for the worse about 20-25 years ago and most main stream hi-fi still sounds bad. The vintage Stax provides a different perspective but the SR-007 and 4070 in the top 3 of the best phones to have ever bore the Stax logo, the other is the SR-Omega. 

 The 202 is mostly different from the other phones as each has its own strengths. The only lemon of the Lambda range IMO are the Pro's as they could have been so much better and the recessed midrange drives me nuts. 

 The T1 and the SRM-1 mk2 are both great amps and are comparable to the current stuff or even better. 

 The Wikipedia article is accurate as it was made by one of our own with feedback from the rest of us.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 202 is mostly different from the other phones as each has its own strengths. The only lemon of the Lambda range IMO are the Pro's as they could have been so much better and the recessed midrange drives me nuts. _

 

I've recently acquired a pair of Lambda Pros and I must say I agree with spritzer on this - definitely recessed midrange and somewhat metallic highs - I prefer the Signatures by a large margin (which, I think, are on par with HE60 and show significant improvement with better aplification)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've recently acquired a pair of Lambda Pros and I must say I agree with spritzer on this - definitely recessed midrange and somewhat metallic highs - I prefer the Signatures by a large margin (which, I think, are on par with HE60 and show significant improvement with better aplification)_

 

The Signature is a much better headphone and most of it's flaws are due to inadequate amplification. 

 Btw. I'm listening to the 4070 now out of a SRM-Xh... doesn't sound all that bad...


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Signature is a much better headphone and most of it's flaws are due to inadequate amplification. 

 Btw. I'm listening to the 4070 now out of a SRM-Xh... doesn't sound all that bad... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I dare you to wear it outside one day! ; p

 The collapsed soundstage and the weight made it pretty difficult for me to enjoy them as computer headphones - now I am on the rather challenging path of making my system quiet without completely replacing everything (as tempting as that might be).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dare you to wear it outside one day! ; p

 The collapsed soundstage and the weight made it pretty difficult for me to enjoy them as computer headphones - now I am on the rather challenging path of making my system quiet without completely replacing everything (as tempting as that might be)._

 

They don't really look all that odd on me but I'm over 2m tall so not exactly small. Still I'd never take them outside as there is so much salt in the air here where I live with the sea less then 500m away on three sides.

 The weight is pretty severe after you've tried the ESP6 it's a walk in the park. I kind of like the small soundstage as it reminds me of the older Stax phones like the SR-X and SR-3.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They don't really look all that odd on me but I'm over 2m tall so not exactly small. Still I'd never take them outside as there is so much salt in the air here where I live with the sea less then 500m away on three sides._

 

I don't think it's a good choice of words - a 2m tall guy wearing huge electrostatic headphones? They may not look bad on you, but the scene would be quite odd indeed! ;p

 In any case, I was joking - the only reason I mentioned this in the first place was that I thought SRM-X driver units had battery power - but seems it's only SRM-X Pro?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's a good choice of words - a 2m tall guy wearing huge electrostatic headphones? They may not look bad on you, but the scene would be quite odd indeed! ;p

 In any case, I was joking - the only reason I mentioned this in the first place was that I thought SRM-X driver units had battery power - but seems it's only SRM-X Pro?_

 

People that know me wouldn't find it that odd. I've been known to put on a set of Sigmas to lighten the mood... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not like the He90 and the SR-Omega are small either.

 The SRM-X Pro did have an add on battery supply but the SRD-p and SRD-X had internal battery compartments. I have an SRD-X on the way and it will be fun to try out.


----------



## no1likesme

I just started to notice a quiet buzzing/clicking noise with my lambdas. It has been coming and going for about an hour. Is this a sign that they are at the end of their life? Or is this my amp? Or could it be something like power surges? I have my amp plugged into a surge protector but the wiring in my house is so horrible that the place should be condemned.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can go here for some good pictures of the the new Mk2. The price is insane though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Really nice pictures! *saved*
 But the price is insane though, at €2,621 (€3,795). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I'm listening to the 4070 now out of a SRM-Xh... doesn't sound all that bad... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He he he 

 But, for all I know I might have used the 4070 in public if I had a portable amplifier to drive them. Example on the train back to my parents place...


----------



## spritzer

If the buzz is in both earpieces at the same time then it is most likely something upstream. Try a different amp and source if you can and a different outlet that is connected to a separate breaker.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really nice pictures! *saved*_

 

Yeah except the one where that guy is supposed to be enjoying them, but they are not plugged in.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah except the one where that guy is supposed to be enjoying them, but they are not plugged in. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Minor detail....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah except the one where that guy is supposed to be enjoying them, but they are not plugged in. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yeah. If they are not connected to an amplifier out of the picture that is..


----------



## audiod

Just a update on my break in of the new SR-007mk2. It’s now been about 80 hours of playing music on them with my SRM-717. I’ve also tried them on my SRM-007t and KGSS. They are still considerably down in level as compared to my SR-007’s. The channel balance is fine. The bass is evening out a bit but nowhere near the impact and power of the O2. They seem veiled. Like I’m listening through a cheese cloth. At this point it is not even a contest with the O2. I was listening to some acoustic Jazz and thought the sound was pretty good, then I switched to the O2 and went WOW. I’m beginning to think that maybe I have a defective set.


----------



## dvse

Sorry to hear that, audiod!

 I think it was suggested before, but try gently bending the headband arc to get the same clamping force as the original SR-007 - this can potentially give better seal and quite a different sound.


 Also, what's your take on KGSS vs SRM-717 thus far?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to hear that, audiod!

 I think it was suggested before, but try gently bending the headband arc to get the same clamping force as the original SR-007 - this can potentially give better seal and quite a different sound.


 Also, what's your take on KGSS vs SRM-717 thus far?_

 

I have adjusted the headband on the mk2 and the seal is now good.

 The KGSS and 717 don’t sound anything alike. The 717 and 007t are quite close. The 717 sounds like a good tube amp with better top, bottom and dynamics. It’s funny that when I tried the new 727II I didn’t like it at all (veiled and bland). The 717 has a more laid back sound (especially in the midrange) than the KGSS. The 717 has a considerably larger soundstage and does a better job of creating the environment of large acoustic recordings. I think that people that listen to a lot of Pop music with typical flat presentation may like the KGSS better. When you listen to the 717 you hear delicate low level details and ambiance that the KGSS seems to mask. One time when I was listening to the KGSS I thought I had my preamp in mono but it wasn’t. I have been extremely happy with the 717/SR-007 combo. Sometimes I can’t seem to leave well enough alone. I still plan on a lot more listening. This is preliminary.


----------



## edstrelow

Inflation of classic phones continues. 

 A low bias Sigma just closed on Ebay for $256.23, in spite of the warnings foam is deterioated and " have no way of testing these."

 I was able to get a good functioning unit, with a neat cardboard display, last year for $125.00.

 Of course there are only a limited number out there.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Inflation of classic phones continues. 

 A low bias Sigma just closed on Ebay for $256.23, in spite of the warnings foam is deterioated and " have no way of testing these."

 I was able to get a good functioning unit, with a neat cardboard display, last year for $125.00.

 Of course there are only a limited number out there._

 

If audiod's pair is representative of SR-007 MK2, then just wait for price of the MK1 to hit 3k+ ; )


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a update on my break in of the new SR-007mk2. It’s now been about 80 hours of playing music on them with my SRM-717. I’ve also tried them on my SRM-007t and KGSS. They are still considerably down in level as compared to my SR-007’s. The channel balance is fine. The bass is evening out a bit but nowhere near the impact and power of the O2. They seem veiled. Like I’m listening through a cheese cloth. At this point it is not even a contest with the O2. I was listening to some acoustic Jazz and thought the sound was pretty good, then I switched to the O2 and went WOW. I’m beginning to think that maybe I have a defective set. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm beginning to think it's a defective set as well. There could be a connection loose or the something else. Have you spoken to your dealer yet as I seriously doubt Stax would release an inferior version especially since the drivers are supposed to be identical. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If audiod's pair is representative of SR-007 MK2, then just wait for price of the MK1 to hit 3k+ ; )_

 

There are 3 sets now on Y!JP so get cracking...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm beginning to think it's a defective set as well. There could be a connection loose or the something else. Have you spoken to your dealer yet as I seriously doubt Stax would release an inferior version especially since the drivers are supposed to be identical. 



 There are 3 sets now on Y!JP so get cracking... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It could also be the head cold messing up his hearing. I sometimes find that a cold can reduce my listening ability for a week or more, because of bloked eustachian tubes.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS and 717 don’t sound anything alike._

 

Thanks for the comments! Is that a Headamp KGSS? Interestingly, I found it to be an improvement over SRM-717 in virtually every area, even though I agree with your observation about the latter being more laid back. Perhaps I should do another comparison now that I'm used to the sound.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 There are 3 sets now on Y!JP so get cracking... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sounds like too much work - we need a futures market in headphones! ; )


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It could also be the head cold messing up his hearing. I sometimes find that a cold can reduce my listening ability for a week or more, because of bloked eustachian tubes._

 

That could very well be it but the fact that the bass was anemic or even non existing when the phones were running open suggests that there is something very wrong with them. Anybody with a planar headphone other then the 4070 should try to hold it about 1" from the ears while playing music and see what happens. When you break the seal on the Mk1 you get mad bass...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like too much work - we need a futures market in headphones! ; )_

 

That would be a great idea if we were in it for the money


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the comments! Is that a Headamp KGSS? Interestingly, I found it to be an improvement over SRM-717 in virtually every area, even though I agree with your observation about the latter being more laid back. Perhaps I should do another comparison now that I'm used to the sound._

 

It is a Headamp made unit that I just purchased used. It is about 1 1/2 years old. It is in pristine like new condition.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It could also be the head cold messing up his hearing. I sometimes find that a cold can reduce my listening ability for a week or more, because of bloked eustachian tubes._

 

Over the weekend I had a friend (a 02 owner) come over and listen. He had the same conclusion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Over the weekend I had a friend (a 02 owner) come over and listen. He had the same conclusion._

 

They must be broken then. The Mk1's can take a while to charge up but nothing like this and I doubt Stax would release a sub par headphone...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They must be broken then. The Mk1's can take a while to charge up but nothing like this and I doubt Stax would release a sub par headphone..._

 

Those are my thoughts also. I plan to talk to the Stax USA distributor today. If my 007's are fully discharged they come up to about 95% in less than 10 minutes. I also want to know what the reaction has been by other people.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those are my thoughts also. I plan to talk to the Stax USA distributor today. If my 007's are fully discharged they come up to about 95% in less than 10 minutes. I also want to know what the reaction has been by other people._

 

Keep us posted if you can. The SR-007 does take a couple of hours to be 100% charged if it has been sitting for months though it can vary.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Inflation of classic phones continues. 

 A low bias Sigma just closed on Ebay for $256.23, in spite of the warnings foam is deterioated and " have no way of testing these."

 I was able to get a good functioning unit, with a neat cardboard display, last year for $125.00.

 Of course there are only a limited number out there._

 

A near-mint pair of Lambda Pros closed at around $230, the lowest I've seen in quite a while.


----------



## Veniogenesis

Wow.

 I got my Lambda Pro for $500 and Sigma Pro for $650. Booo...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A near-mint pair of Lambda Pros closed at around $230, the lowest I've seen in quite a while._

 

Was it a Lambda Pro or Pro _Classic_? There is a huge difference between those two though I prefer the Spirit/Classic.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A near-mint pair of Lambda Pros closed at around $230, the lowest I've seen in quite a while._

 

Thats a good deal!
 I paid $270 for my second pair some months back. Mounted new earpads and they now look almost as new.


----------



## Petyot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If my 007's *are fully discharged *they come up to about 95% in less than 10 minutes_

 

Can someone explain what does that mean ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a pair of SR-007 and I don't see how they could "discharged" themselves. I just plugged them in and they work... Anything I don't understand ? Are we talking about the amp or the headphones ?

 Thanks

 Pierre


----------



## naamanf

So I finally bit the bullet and bought a used pair of 02s. I also have a Blue Hawaii in the works to provide them with some good power. Really look forward to joining the club


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone explain what does that mean ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a pair of SR-007 and I don't see how they could "discharged" themselves. I just plugged them in and they work... Anything I don't understand ? Are we talking about the amp or the headphones ?_

 

We are talking about the headphones.
 They discharge themselves if put away (not connected to bias supply) for a while. Or if you touch the bias pin on the plug. The next time you plug them in the bias need to charge up before they perform at their best level.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I finally bit the bullet and bought a used pair of 02s. I also have a Blue Hawaii in the works to provide them with some good power. Really look forward to joining the club 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great move!
 Welcome to the club.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone explain what does that mean ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a pair of SR-007 and I don't see how they could "discharged" themselves. I just plugged them in and they work... Anything I don't understand ? Are we talking about the amp or the headphones ?

 Thanks

 Pierre_

 

The headphones are large capacitors and they loose their charge when they sit unused for some time. It takes awhile for the phones to become fully charged again due to the resistance in the diaphragm and the bleeder resistors that controls the bias flow.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I finally bit the bullet and bought a used pair of 02s. I also have a Blue Hawaii in the works to provide them with some good power. Really look forward to joining the club 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks Naaman. 

 It was a bittersweet moment to pass the torch on to you. I hope you enjoy them.


----------



## Petyot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We are talking about the headphones.
 They discharge themselves if put away (not connected to bias supply) for a while. Or if you touch the bias pin on the plug. The next time you plug them in the bias need to charge up before they perform at their best level._

 

krmathis and spritzer : thanks for your answer. I will go to bed less stupid tonight...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Petyot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis and spritzer : thanks for your answer. I will go to bed less stupid tonight...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Excellent!
 Just happy to pass on the knowledge I have previously picked up from this forum.


----------



## ferraro25

Got notice that my new job will start soon, so, as planned, I ordered the SRS-2050II from elusivedisc! If it ships tomorrow, it could get here Friday or Saturday (through U.S. Postal Service, 2 to 3 day shipping), otherwise probably Monday at the latest. I'll have at least a whole week of (mostly) free time to enjoy the headphones before I start my new work, this is perfect timing! I cannot wait to hear my first electrostatic headphones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will post first-and-way-too-early-to-be-accurate impressions within an hour of first using it (something I do with every new headphone I get). I realize that they need time to warm up to sound their best - even after burn-in - but as with every headphone I've purchased, I'm not going to let these 202s create sound without my being around to hear them.


----------



## 88Sound

A quick question....... I have a Head-amp built Blue Hawaii with an always on bias. I just measured the bias voltage with the amp off and it is reading 380 VDC, shouldn't this be more like 560 to 580 VDC?

 Spritzer, I think you have a nearly identical amp to mine, can you instruct me how to change that voltage? I looked on the bias board in the amp and don't see an adjustment there, am I missing something?

 I'll send an e-mail to Justin but thought I might get a quicker answer here.

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A quick question....... I have a Head-amp built Blue Hawaii with an always on bias. I just measured the bias voltage with the amp off and it is reading 380 VDC, shouldn't this be more like 560 to 580 VDC?

 Spritzer, I think you have a nearly identical amp to mine, can you instruct me how to change that voltage? I looked on the bias board in the amp and don't see an adjustment there, am I missing something?

 I'll send an e-mail to Justin but thought I might get a quicker answer here.

 Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

How did you measure it? If you went from the socket to ground then the reading will be off unless you used a VTVM. The bias is an open circuit so if you connect to ground after the bleeder resistor it alters the reading. You have to measure before the last resistor and to the 0v point on the transformer. 

 Since you have the always-on bias then you have an extra board inside the amp with a small transformer on the end and a bunch of blue box capacitors. The other bias supply borrows from the HV+ line so that's most likely not used. It's at the back of the main PSU board and consists of a 2 blue box caps, a variable resistor, a couple of diodes and resistor. I can teach you how to calibrate that one but the other, freestanding one I've never seen so I wouldn't risk it. They are basically the same but it's better to be safe then sorry.


----------



## 88Sound

I did measure from socket to ground (VDC setting on Fluke 87 III) . Since the phones sound good (except for the right channel lowering in volume after a while) I'll leave it alone.

 I should be getting the SR-007 mk 2 today and just wanted to check things out to avoid any damage to the new phones.

 Thanks for the reply!


----------



## milkpowder

Moon Audio seems to stock the mk2 too:
http://www.moon-audio.com/Stax.htm


----------



## Faust2D

I see a lot of channel imbalance talk in the Stax thread. Are Lambdas also subject to this? What can cause it? For now my lambdas seem fine, but I am developing a paranoia the something sounds off.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did measure from socket to ground (VDC setting on Fluke 87 III) . Since the phones sound good (except for the right channel lowering in volume after a while) I'll leave it alone.

 I should be getting the SR-007 mk 2 today and just wanted to check things out to avoid any damage to the new phones.

 Thanks for the reply! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That explains the lower number. 

 The right hand driver must be defective or the cable broken somewhere as they use the same bias pin but it's two different wires to the earpieces. 

 Please keep us posted on the Mk2's and how they compare to the Mk1's. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Moon Audio seems to stock the mk2 too:
http://www.moon-audio.com/Stax.htm_

 

He even has a special price for Head-fi members...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see a lot of channel imbalance talk in the Stax thread. Are Lambdas also subject to this? What can cause it? For now my lambdas seem fine, but I am developing a paranoia the something sounds off._

 

There are a number of causes, misaligned stators, something happens to either the coating on the membrane or the connectors for the bias and the cables break causing an intermittent connection. The Lambdas are pretty immune to this but it can happen but then again the odds are low.


----------



## Faust2D

Why do you say the "Lambdas are pretty immune"? Is this because of the drive construction?


----------



## Elephas




----------



## Duggeh

Theres a set of Sigmas for sale in the forums now if you want to complete that collection Elephas.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why do you say the "Lambdas are pretty immune"? Is this because of the drive construction?_

 

Yep. It is much better then the old SR-X and 1/3/5 drivers. It does happen though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I can't have Elephas posting all theses nice pictures. I think it's time for a group picture if I can find somewhere high enough to take it from...


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Theres a set of Sigmas for sale in the forums now if you want to complete that collection Elephas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, no, I'm not collecting headphones, I'm just trying to join the Stax Mafia!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, no, I'm not collecting headphones, I'm just trying to join the Stax Mafia!_

 

You do know there is no such thing as the Stax mafia... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... but if there were you would be a member. Now go and kneecap some lost dynamic soul...


----------



## billinkansas

Guess I'm back to street goon status, now that I sold my stretch limo - errrrr - O2.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess I'm back to street goon status, now that I sold my stretch limo - errrrr - O2._

 

And I thank you for it


----------



## audiod

I measured the level difference between the SR-007 and mk2. The mk2 is 3.7db lower in level using pink noise than the 007.

 I talked to Stax USA today. I discribed the problems that I am having with sound quality (read earlier in this forum) and drop in level over the 007. They stated that they are getting the same results. They think that more breakin is required. They are in the process of contacting Japan for some answers. I should have a response by early next week.

 Has anyone else gotten their mk2 yet?


----------



## 88Sound

The recommended O2 mk2 seller sent me an e-mail telling me that all items had shipped and gave me a tracking # for a package that arrived today! The package contained only a headphone stand. When I called the seller they told me the headphones were dropped shipped....ok.... I asked them for an e-mail with a tracking # or an explanation that they could not get a tracking #... that was over four hours ago. They must be doing great business!


----------



## Dr Atom Magnum

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just started to notice a quiet buzzing/clicking noise with my lambdas. It has been coming and going for about an hour. Is this a sign that they are at the end of their life? Or is this my amp? Or could it be something like power surges? I have my amp plugged into a surge protector but the wiring in my house is so horrible that the place should be condemned._

 

After a few years of using a pair of 303s they developed this problem in the right speaker. I replaced them with a pair of 404s but they experienced the exact same problem in the left speaker, but while the 303s took a few years to develop this problem the 404s had it immediately. The problem was also much more severe in the 404s and after six weeks of listening to clicking and buzzing instead of the actual music my new 404s met their demise.

 Aside from the problems the 404s sounded significantly worse than the 303s. At the same volume they produced considerably less sound than the 303s and what sound they did produce had discernibly less detail and sounded rather muffled. With the poor sound quality and reliability issues I was unenthusiastic to buy another pair of Stax so I went for a pair of Sony MDR-SA5000s. Unfortunately I have problems with headphones that apply too much pressure to your head and after an hour they ended up back in their box and are going on eBay tomorrow (can’t put them in the For Sale forum because I don’t have 50 posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





). 

 I’m back using my 303s which sound fantastic after the 404s but the clicking is bothering me and it won’t be long before I get the hammer out again. I have comfort problems with most other headphones so it looks like I’ll have to buy another pair of Stax. 

 I was considering the Omega II Mk IIs but couldn’t pay that price without first trying them on and I can’t find anywhere to try them. I wouldn’t like to order a pair over the Internet and find I couldn’t wear as I have with many other headphones. Plus the comments about the Omega II Mk IIs I've read in this thread seem less then enthusiastic. I might have to go for another pair of 303s because at least I know they’re comfortable and they’re priced at a disposable level so you can throw them away and get a new pair when they break a few weeks after arriving.


----------



## billinkansas

Sorry that you are having such troubles. 

 Any chance that your Stax amp is not working properly?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_. I might have to go for another pair of 303s because at least I know they’re comfortable and they’re priced at a disposable level so you can throw them away and get a new pair when they break a few weeks after arriving._

 

Priced at a disposable level you say? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I guess to each it's own. I think something is wrong with your amp.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think something is wrong with your amp._

 

Probably not since the 303 has a faulty right driver and the 404 a faulty left driver.
 Might be hairs.Also unlikely but possible.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I was considering the Omega II Mk IIs but couldn’t pay that price without first trying them on and I can’t find anywhere to try them._

 

The Omegas probably won't do it for you unless Stax has vastly improved the comfort.
 I do own the SR-007s and they are far less comfortable than the Lambdas (far better sounding though).
 No big deal for me but if you can't stand the SA5Ks which do make it easily onto the top ten list of the most comfortable headphones, low weight, low clamping force and soft leather pads .....


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Probably not since the 303 has a faulty right driver and the 404 a faulty left driver.
 Might be hairs.Also unlikely but possible._

 

Maybe, or maybe just damaged wire connection 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ (can’t put them in the For Sale forum because I don’t have 50 posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). _

 

That's no problem.There are a few threads dedicated to pushing the post count.
 "What are you listening to right now", "What are you drinking right now", "What are you eating now" and so on.
 There you can get a sufficient post count within a few hours without getting on my nerves .......


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After a few years of using a pair of 303s they developed this problem in the right speaker. I replaced them with a pair of 404s but they experienced the exact same problem in the left speaker, but while the 303s took a few years to develop this problem the 404s had it immediately. The problem was also much more severe in the 404s and after six weeks of listening to clicking and buzzing instead of the actual music my new 404s met their demise.

 Aside from the problems the 404s sounded significantly worse than the 303s. At the same volume they produced considerably less sound than the 303s and what sound they did produce had discernibly less detail and sounded rather muffled. With the poor sound quality and reliability issues I was unenthusiastic to buy another pair of Stax _

 

This is the worst case of bad luck I've heard about in the Stax realm.
 In fact the Staxes are famous for longevity.I've recently sold some more than 30 years old Stax SR-X MKIIIs in good working order to head-fi member facelvega and I do stíll own ~ 25 years old Stax Lambda Pros in perfect condition.I do or did also own SR-5, SR-5 Gold, Lambda Nova Basic, SR-303 for many years and no single failure.


----------



## Dr Atom Magnum

Thanks for the replies. I don’t think it’s an issue with the driver unit because 1) as cosmopragma pointed out the problem was with the left speaker on the 404s and the right on the 303s and 2) the problem was much more pronounced on the 404s than on the 303s and if it was the driver unit you’d expect it to be about the same on both. 

 Once they’re broken they can produce quite the variety of sounds and I can’t imagine what would cause some of them. There’s one where it starts clicking at an interval of about 800ms but as it continues the interval between the clicks gets progressively shorter until it’s clicking very rapidly. Maybe I’m insane and I’m hearing things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks also for the advice about the comfort of the 707s. I found the SA5000s to be a lot more comfortable than something like the Sennheisher HD600 head vice and it was only the pressure applied in front of the ears that made them uncomfortable. I’ve noticed that on the 707s the pads get narrower towards the front as they do on the 303s and 404 and that may make them viable. On the down side the 707s appear to spread the pressure over a smaller area than the 303s/404s so that may lead to discomfort.

 I did want to buy the Omega IIs when I originally bought my Sax but when I check I found they’d been out for quite a while and for some reason I like to have the latest model. I decided to I’d hold off my purchase until they were updated or replaced and now that they have been I’m sorely tempted to buy the Mark IIs, especially now I’ve been reassured about the reliability of Stax products. However, it looks like I’m going to lose half of what I paid for the SA5000s when I put them on eBay so bearing that in mind I think it might be best to get a new pair of 303s until I get the opportunity to try the Omega IIs on.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the replies. I don’t think it’s an issue with the driver unit because 1) as cosmopragma pointed out the problem was with the left speaker on the 404s and the right on the 303s and 2) the problem was much more pronounced on the 404s than on the 303s and if it was the driver unit you’d expect it to be about the same on both. 

 Once they’re broken they can produce quite the variety of sounds and I can’t imagine what would cause some of them. There’s one where it starts clicking at an interval of about 800ms but as it continues the interval between the clicks gets progressively shorter until it’s clicking very rapidly. Maybe I’m insane and I’m hearing things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks also for the advice about the comfort of the 707s. I found the SA5000s to be a lot more comfortable than something like the Sennheisher HD600 head vice and it was only the pressure applied in front of the ears that made them uncomfortable. I’ve noticed that on the 707s the pads get narrower towards the front as they do on the 303s and 404 and that may make them viable. On the down side the 707s appear to spread the pressure over a smaller area than the 303s/404s so that may lead to discomfort.

 I did want to buy the Omega IIs when I originally bought my Sax but when I check I found they’d been out for quite a while and for some reason I like to have the latest model. I decided to I’d hold off my purchase until they were updated or replaced and now that they have been I’m sorely tempted to buy the Mark IIs, especially now I’ve been reassured about the reliability of Stax products. However, it looks like I’m going to lose half of what I paid for the SA5000s when I put them on eBay so bearing that in mind I think it might be best to get a new pair of 303s until I get the opportunity to try the Omega IIs on._

 

Could be a short circuits in the phones, possibly hair, mositure, or even blown diaphragms. You should really state what you are using to drive them. 

 I have both an old Lambda Nova and 404 of some years vintage and they work flawlessly. I have even older fully functioning Sigmas, 30 plus years on the oldest. The drivers on the Sigma and Lambdas are very reliable compared to the earlier Stax and short of physical destruction are rather like the energizer bunny.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* 
_I just started to notice a quiet buzzing/clicking noise with my lambdas. It has been coming and going for about an hour. Is this a sign that they are at the end of their life? Or is this my amp? Or could it be something like power surges? I have my amp plugged into a surge protector but the wiring in my house is so horrible that the place should be condemned._

 

I'm afraid it's the headphones. See below.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Atom Magnum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After a few years of using a pair of 303s they developed this problem in the right speaker. I replaced them with a pair of 404s but they experienced the exact same problem in the left speaker, but while the 303s took a few years to develop this problem the 404s had it immediately. The problem was also much more severe in the 404s and after six weeks of listening to clicking and buzzing instead of the actual music my new 404s met their demise.

 Aside from the problems the 404s sounded significantly worse than the 303s. At the same volume they produced considerably less sound than the 303s and what sound they did produce had discernibly less detail and sounded rather muffled. With the poor sound quality and reliability issues I was unenthusiastic to buy another pair of Stax so I went for a pair of Sony MDR-SA5000s. Unfortunately I have problems with headphones that apply too much pressure to your head and after an hour they ended up back in their box and are going on eBay tomorrow (can’t put them in the For Sale forum because I don’t have 50 posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). 

 I’m back using my 303s which sound fantastic after the 404s but the clicking is bothering me and it won’t be long before I get the hammer out again. I have comfort problems with most other headphones so it looks like I’ll have to buy another pair of Stax. 

 I was considering the Omega II Mk IIs but couldn’t pay that price without first trying them on and I can’t find anywhere to try them. I wouldn’t like to order a pair over the Internet and find I couldn’t wear as I have with many other headphones. Plus the comments about the Omega II Mk IIs I've read in this thread seem less then enthusiastic. I might have to go for another pair of 303s because at least I know they’re comfortable and they’re priced at a disposable level so you can throw them away and get a new pair when they break a few weeks after arriving._

 

I had a similar problem with my 303's soon after buying them new. The buzz appeared only now and then, very rarely at first (during the first few months), sometimes to the left, sometimes to the right. In the end, I sent them to the German service along with their 313 driver unit (nice guys btw., thumbs up!). They said the driver unit was OK, but replaced both drivers or "sound elements" inside the headphones. *Almost a year later, I was having the same problem again!! *The cure was again the replacement of the drivers, but this time they also replaced the inner brass, black painted protective mesh with a stainless steel one - they said it's more rugged and not prone to oxidation, as opposed to the old one, and it's been used by Stax since about a year ago. This happened in May this year. The headphones are still trouble free at this moment.

 I'm very much surprised that your 404 had a lower sound quality than your 303. Have the 404 been sufficiently burned in and charged when listening?


----------



## spritzer

Having two headphones break like that is a clear sign it's due to some external factor, most likely dust, some other debris or hairs. There is most likely nothing wrong with the drivers but since they can't be opened, Stax replaces them just the same as Sennheiser does with the HE60. 

 The SR-007 can be very comfortable but the pads can be a bit small, something that is fixed with the Mk2. You need to bend the arcs to get the right fit or they will be too loose or compress too much as well as to find the correct position for the earpads. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I measured the level difference between the SR-007 and mk2. The mk2 is 3.7db lower in level using pink noise than the 007.

 I talked to Stax USA today. I discribed the problems that I am having with sound quality (read earlier in this forum) and drop in level over the 007. They stated that they are getting the same results. They think that more breakin is required. They are in the process of contacting Japan for some answers. I should have a response by early next week.

 Has anyone else gotten their mk2 yet?_

 

I still don't think this is normal and more breakin his hardly going to fix it. I wonder if Stax has another 4070 snafu on their hands...? For those that don't know, when stax released the 4070 in 2001 it had a major flaw because the housing was too wide and it couldn't swivel freely and thus severely limiting the usage of the headphones. Only those with fairly large heads could use them but this was fixed in 2002. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The recommended O2 mk2 seller sent me an e-mail telling me that all items had shipped and gave me a tracking # for a package that arrived today! The package contained only a headphone stand. When I called the seller they told me the headphones were dropped shipped....ok.... I asked them for an e-mail with a tracking # or an explanation that they could not get a tracking #... that was over four hours ago. They must be doing great business! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've had this happen twice... not pleasant. I will be great to have some feedback on how they sound with the Blue Hawaii.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Not checked in here for a few days and catching up is like reading a gripping page-turner: what's going to happen next? Taking a hammer to a set of 404s! (By the way, can I have the cable from the smashed up pair?!)

 Meanwhile, I have some corrections to make: just under a year ago I scored my 3030 system, and wrote here that the SRM-313 wasn't much different to the SRM-1/Mk2 (although the 303s were a step up from the 202s), so that the 3030 became my main system. (The SRM-1/Mk2 and the 202s went into my office.)

 Having recently got some near-new 404s (just the 404s, no amp/energiser), I was initially disappointed that they weren't such a leap up from the 303s, but this changed rapidly as they warmed up. It didn't take long for the improvement to show through, although it's not a vast gulf between the two (I'd found the step from 202 to 303 was greater a year ago).

 The only problem I had was with the colour: in all the snaps I've seen here and elsewhere, the 404s look an insipid brown, not far removed from the insipid green of the 303s. When they arrived, they were a deep, almost chocolate, brown: how could I possibly fool SWMBO into thinking that they were the same 'phones as before? That evening, when she came in the room, I sat as nonchalantly as possible with the 404s on my head, ready to justify my expenditure by trotting out the old, "don't worry, I'll sell the old ones" line. My heart was pounding... phew! I got away with it: she didn't notice the colour change!

 That was a week ago. Last night, having left the 404s plugged into the 313 for days, with it switched on, I again did a comparison with the SRM-1/Mk2 (also left switched on for an hour or two previously). It didn't take me long to discover that my summary judgement of almost a year ago (that the 313 wasn't much different to the old amp) was completely wrong: the SRM-1/Mk2 sounds much better (more dynamic, more presence, more bass, much clearer!).

 The upshot is that the SRM-1/Mk2 now sits with my main hi-fi, and the 313 is relegated to office use. Now my problems are, a) will SWMBO notice if I swap the 202s I was using in my office to the 303s (that IS a big colour change!) and, b) I'm not so happy to leave the SRM-1/Mk2 on all the time (as I did with the 313) because it runs so much hotter, and those holes in the top are an invitation to dust/cat hair/my 9 year-old daughter!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still don't think this is normal and more breakin his hardly going to fix it._

 

I agree. Stax USA offered to exchange. Since they are having the same problem it seems like an exchange at this time would be useless. I decided to wait for a response from Japan. If anybody is planning to buy the mk2 I would hold off till this problem is resolved. At this point the resale value of the 007 is likely to go up not down.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... At this point the resale value of the 007 is likely to go up not down._

 

Curses!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Stax USA offered to exchange. Since they are having the same problem it seems like an exchange at this time would be useless. I decided to wait for a response from Japan. If anybody is planning to buy the mk2 I would hold off till this problem is resolved. At this point the resale value of the 007 is likely to go up not down._

 

I really hope this is a fluke of some sorts and not really the new SR-007. The pads could cause some of this but that would make them sound more like the Sr-Omega and require less voltage to get going. 

 I'm sitting this out for now or until I find a new source and I hope these issues will be resolved by then or I'll throw together some monster amp for them. Does anybody know about a cheap Chinese amp that uses large tubes in push-pull configuration? I've found a 2A3 amp that could work for Stax phones but something 807, 211 or 845 based would make my life so much easier.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should be getting the SR-007 mk 2 today and just wanted to check things out to avoid any damage to the new phones._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Lets hope your pair don't have the same issues as audiod's...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, no, I'm not collecting headphones, I'm just trying to join the Stax Mafia!_

 

Which Stax mafia? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 If there ever were one you would certainly be well qualified with a collection like that.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Stax USA offered to exchange. Since they are having the same problem it seems like an exchange at this time would be useless. I decided to wait for a response from Japan. If anybody is planning to buy the mk2 I would hold off till this problem is resolved. At this point the resale value of the 007 is likely to go up not down._

 

Lets hope there are just something wrong with your pair, or a small batch of them.
 Cause if this is what the mk2 are supposed to be, then I am extra happy to be an SR-007BL owner.

 Especially if their resale value go sky high.


----------



## Dr Atom Magnum

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, can I have the cable from the smashed up pair?!_

 

Unfortunately they were collected with the rubbish yesterday. It's a shame because I'm in the UK and it wouldn't have been any trouble to send it to you. Sorry about that.


----------



## billinkansas

[Off topic]
 I guess its comforting to know that other people do that with equipment that pisses them off. My bad luck seems to come with CD players - I am still finding pieces of both my Tascam and Audio Alechemy players around my driveway. Anyhow, at least I knocked some sense into them and neither of them will be giving anyone any more trouble. (anyone need a Audio Alechemy power supply?)

 [back on topic]
 I've been looking into getting a SR-303 - I hope this isn't some chronic quality issue with them.


----------



## Faust2D

You guys all have bad temper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just sell the stuff that pisses me off.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You guys all have bad temper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just sell the stuff that pisses me off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I just couldn't sell it to anyone in good conscience - that's what pisses me off.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[Off topic]
 I guess its comforting to know that other people do that with equipment that pisses them off. My bad luck seems to come with CD players - I am still finding pieces of both my Tascam and Audio Alechemy players around my driveway. Anyhow, at least I knocked some sense into them and neither of them will be giving anyone any more trouble. (anyone need a Audio Alechemy power supply?)

 [back on topic]
 I've been looking into getting a SR-303 - I hope this isn't some chronic quality issue with them._

 

I just fix the stuff that is bothering me or scrap it for parts... you guys need to go out and hit somebody like normal people do... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The buzzing sound is always caused by a foreign object lodged in between a stator and the diaphragm. Use a dustcover and you should be fine.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just couldn't sell it to anyone in good conscience - that's what pisses me off._

 

Well you tell people itsabroken and sell for cheap. I would not mind having a broken Sr-404. I can probably send them to have drives replaced for half the price of the new cans. But thats just me, since I am cheap a person.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cause if this is what the mk2 are supposed to be, then I am extra happy to be an SR-007BL owner._

 

I like the look of my 007BL better than the 007mk2


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just fix the stuff that is bothering me or scrap it for parts..._

 

I found an old tuner on the street once. It was broken, I fixed it with a simple cleaning of all parts inside and traded for SR-40 Stax system. This is what sucked me into this electrostatic thing, fixing old broken stuff.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well you tell people itsabroken and sell for cheap. I would not mind having a broken Sr-404. I can probably send them to have drives replaced for half the price of the new cans. But thats just me, since I am cheap a person. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's not worth the trouble. 

 FWIW, I'm a cheap person too, but probably more person than cheap.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found an old tuner on the street once. It was broken, I fixed it with a simple cleaning of all parts inside and traded for SR-40 Stax system. This is what sucked me into this electrostatic thing, fixing old broken stuff. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Fixing stuff is fun and cheap is you know what you are doing. A bit of work and some good cleaning agents and you can bring most gear back to life. I like tube gear more though as there are only a few things that can go wrong.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the look of my 007BL better than the 007mk2_

 

Yes, the 007BL sure looks great! Glad I own that one and not the brown 007.


----------



## 88Sound

The Mk2 arrived minutes ago, here are my initial impressions with a Blue Hawaii. I've fully charged them (2 min.) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and so far they are just like my old O2's with some important differences..........The channel imbalance is gone!...ok that was easy......they have more bass, more bass impact, a tad looser (I'm hoping this will tighten up with charging and use).......They fit me perfectly without bending (just like my old O2's, I guess I have a Stax head)....the earpad material is nicer......oooooh real sheep! The mids and highs seem the same to me, which is excellent..........as far as volume goes they seem exactly the same (maybe a tad louder because of the increased bass emphasis) than my admittedly in need of repair O2's.

 Definitely keepers in my book.......My old O2's are now packed and ready to be shipped for repairs.


----------



## Afrikane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk2 arrived minutes ago, here are my initial impressions with a Blue Hawaii. I've fully charged them (2 min.) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and so far they are just like my old O2's with some important differences..........The channel imbalance is gone!...ok that was easy......they have more bass, more bass impact, a tad looser (I'm hoping this will tighten up with charging and use).......They fit me perfectly without bending (just like my old O2's, I guess I have a Stax head)....the earpad material is nicer......oooooh real sheep! The mids and highs seem the same to me, which is excellent..........as far as volume goes they seem exactly the same (maybe a tad louder because of the increased bass emphasis) than my admittedly in need of repair O2's.

 Definitely keepers in my book.......My old O2's are now packed and ready to be shipped for repairs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the impressions and the much more encouraging news. 
 I hope that audiod's experience with the MKII is unique. Of course I hope too that it is remedied expeditiously.


----------



## edstrelow

Maybe the Blue Hawaii is the critical factor.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk2 arrived minutes ago, here are my initial impressions with a Blue Hawaii. I've fully charged them (2 min.) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 and so far they are just like my old O2's with some important differences..........The channel imbalance is gone!...ok that was easy......they have more bass, more bass impact, a tad looser (I'm hoping this will tighten up with charging and use).......They fit me perfectly without bending (just like my old O2's, I guess I have a Stax head)....the earpad material is nicer......oooooh real sheep! The mids and highs seem the same to me, which is excellent..........as far as volume goes they seem exactly the same (maybe a tad louder because of the increased bass emphasis) than my admittedly in need of repair O2's.

 Definitely keepers in my book.......My old O2's are now packed and ready to be shipped for repairs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great News! Now I think that I should exchance mine. The funny thing is that Stax USA was having problems with their demo units and some of the other dealers also. Exacly the same problem. This has me baffled.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk2 arrived minutes ago, here are my initial impressions with a Blue Hawaii. I've fully charged them (2 min.) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and so far they are just like my old O2's with some important differences..........The channel imbalance is gone!...ok that was easy......they have more bass, more bass impact, a tad looser (I'm hoping this will tighten up with charging and use).......They fit me perfectly without bending (just like my old O2's, I guess I have a Stax head)....the earpad material is nicer......oooooh real sheep! The mids and highs seem the same to me, which is excellent..........as far as volume goes they seem exactly the same (maybe a tad louder because of the increased bass emphasis) than my admittedly in need of repair O2's.

 Definitely keepers in my book.......My old O2's are now packed and ready to be shipped for repairs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This is more like it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It could be the BH though as is really kicks the SR-007 into gear...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe the Blue Hawaii is the critical factor._

 

I don't think so. I used a KGSS, 717 & 007t with the same results. Stax USA has verified the problem.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk2 arrived minutes ago, here are my initial impressions with a Blue Hawaii. I've fully charged them (2 min.) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and so far they are just like my old O2's with some important differences..........The channel imbalance is gone!...ok that was easy......they have more bass, more bass impact, a tad looser (I'm hoping this will tighten up with charging and use).......They fit me perfectly without bending (just like my old O2's, I guess I have a Stax head)....the earpad material is nicer......oooooh real sheep! The mids and highs seem the same to me, which is excellent..........as far as volume goes they seem exactly the same (maybe a tad louder because of the increased bass emphasis) than my admittedly in need of repair O2's.

 Definitely keepers in my book.......My old O2's are now packed and ready to be shipped for repairs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks a lot for your take on the SR-007mk2.
 Seems like you ahev a totally different experience with them than 'audiod'. Which can be related to personal aspects, system matching, or that there are some faulty pairs out there.

 At least there is nice to see that you prefer it over the SR-007.


----------



## 88Sound

Also just to be clear....I was listening to the mk2's at a certain volume with the same material, unplugged them and put on my old O2's at the same volume and to me the mk2's seem slightly louder due to the bass. It does make me wonder how broken my old O2's are, but even they sound excellent until that right channel starts to slowly decrease in volume.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think so. I used a KGSS, 717 & 007t with the same results. Stax USA has verified the problem._

 

The KGBH is a whole different league but your set is clearly acting up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also just to be clear....I was listening to the mk2's at a certain volume with the same material, unplugged them and put on my old O2's at the same volume and to me the mk2's seem slightly louder due to the bass. It does make me wonder how broken my old O2's are, but even they sound excellent until that right channel starts to slowly decrease in volume._

 

They could be shorting to the stators or only getting a short burst of bias at the begging and then no more so it will slowly fade away. How long does it take to fade away?


----------



## 88Sound

From fully discharged seems to take about 1 hour and after that gets progressively worse until the difference to equalise the volume is about four clicks on the BH. After a certain point the right channel will start to distort before it can be fully equalised with the left at a loud volume.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From fully discharged seems to take about 1 hour and after that gets progressively worse until the difference to equalise the volume is about four clicks on the BH. After a certain point the right channel will start to distort before it can be fully equalised with the left at a loud volume._

 

This too slow for a short circuit inside the earpiece so they must have an intermittent connection on the bias line either it is the cable or the connection inside the earcup. The cable is most prone to break just before it enters the earcup as that was one of the changes Stax made with the Mk2. I hope it is only the cable as that is 100$ but the drivers are a few hundred.


----------



## catscratch

Gents,

 I'm putting together an H2 rig, which will also double as a K1k rig. There will be a Cayin A88t driving either headphone.

 But, this also leads to this question: how good would the Cayin be for driving the O2 via a transformer box, like, for instance, that Illusion box that Carl is using?

 I don't like solid state amps period. I don't think the SRM-007t has the juice to drive the O2, and I don't know anything about the Woo GES other than that it's based on an old KG design that Kevin likes less than the KGSS and the KGBH.

 Seems like this speaker amp could lead to a lot of interesting headphone possibilities in the future.

 Driving a K340 recabled off the speaker outputs? Hmm...


----------



## tyre

adjustable 0-1000V bias supply for a future transformer box project


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gents,

 I'm putting together an H2 rig, which will also double as a K1k rig. There will be a Cayin A88t driving either headphone.

 But, this also leads to this question: how good would the Cayin be for driving the O2 via a transformer box, like, for instance, that Illusion box that Carl is using?

 I don't like solid state amps period. I don't think the SRM-007t has the juice to drive the O2, and I don't know anything about the Woo GES other than that it's based on an old KG design that Kevin likes less than the KGSS and the KGBH.

 Seems like this speaker amp could lead to a lot of interesting headphone possibilities in the future.

 Driving a K340 recabled off the speaker outputs? Hmm..._

 

It should be great with any of the transformers but the SR-007 will still be a bit dark and woolly in the bass. 

 Another option is to convert the Cayin into a Stax amp as it is a push-pull amp. 4 caps of the output trafo and and a couple of resistors and you've got a Stax amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_adjustable 0-1000V bias supply for a future transformer box project




_

 

That is a great way to do it and they even made a 550v version...


----------



## macm75

I'm here infrequently but never sure if I should start a new thread or add on here. Hope you don't mind barging in.
 My issue concerns the SR-303. I own them, for about a year, and use a amp I built myself. It's the Ciuffoli 6BX(L)7 version. I will be converting to a 2A3 output soon and hope for better results.
 Anyway I have never been completely satisfied with the 303's. I buddy of mine owns the 404's and we feel the same thing. OK they possess rediculous amount of detail from top to bottom, huge and wide soundstage that is amazingly transparent, and are fantastically dynamic. My problem with them is they lack the easy going liquid naturalness I expect out my normal tube/vintage alnico driver/etc home equipment. I did expect them to be easier on the ears. Hoped for improvement over time but no change.
 Anyway, I'm simply wondering if I should be looking for older models like the Lambda Nova Sig or Lambda Nova Classic or do I need to go further back and look for Lambda Pro or basic Lambda's to get the easy sound I'm looking for. I'd sacrifice a little, not a lot but a little, detail/soundstage/etc to get it. Any suggestions welcome.
 Thank You. -Joe


----------



## spritzer

The original SR-Lambda fits that bill and the Lambda Pro if you can handle the recessed midrange and nonlinear bass/treble. Any pics of the amp??


----------



## Faust2D

When I compared SR-303 to SR Lambda, I discovered that SR Lambda is what you crave, liquid and natural, with a bit less details and dynamic range. I crave details, sometimes at the expense of musicality, and that why I like 303 a lot. SR Lambda with rock or older somewhat poor recordings is just what doctor ordered. Try to find one, I bet you will like it.


----------



## macm75

You asked for it but I'm embarrased to report I still do not have an enclosure for it. I keep it on a table in my living room and use it for nightime listening. My goal is to purchase one of those "you stain it oak nightstands" and build separate PS and amp chassis within the nightstand. My home audio stuff, which I can't lie is dearer to my heart, keeps on taking precedence.

 Hear is the only available pic I have of it (geez it has not changed)...


----------



## Duggeh

You don't have any small children do you? At least, not any without Einstein hair.


----------



## macm75

Thanks guys.
 I have been meaning to write and ask that question for at least 6 months. I ask it and bingo - I'm feeling good that there appears to be an answer for me.

  Quote:


 You don't have any small children do you? At least, not any without Einstein hair. 
 

I just keep it high off the ground. All my amps are hard to reach. Yeah, I do have small children and what scares me is my desire for transmitting tubes like Eimac 75TL's and RCA 834's. At least at 3 and 6 they know what a vacuum tube, capacitor, and transformer is (not that it's going to get them anywhere) 

 You guys are great, Joe


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You asked for it but I'm embarrased to report I still do not have an enclosure for it. I keep it on a table in my living room and use it for nightime listening. My goal is to purchase one of those "you stain it oak nightstands" and build separate PS and amp chassis within the nightstand. My home audio stuff, which I can't lie is dearer to my heart, keeps on taking precedence.

 Hear is the only available pic I have of it (geez it has not changed)...



_

 

I like the rough look but you are kind of cheating by keeping it like that. The case work is always the boring part... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I might build one of these some day


----------



## macm75

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The case work is always the boring part_

 

I hear you man, and I'm too cheap to buy the furniture I'd like to put it in and too inexperienced of a woodworker. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 OK, so the SR-Lambda's are normal bias - 6 pin connectors - 230DC
 Next, and of course I'll check with Woo Audio (pretty sure the one I got from them is 5 pin), are there any sources for the 6 pin connectors or do I have to get them from a Stax transformer box?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm here infrequently but never sure if I should start a new thread or add on here. Hope you don't mind barging in.
 My issue concerns the SR-303. I own them, for about a year, and use a amp I built myself. It's the Ciuffoli 6BX(L)7 version. I will be converting to a 2A3 output soon and hope for better results.
 Anyway I have never been completely satisfied with the 303's. I buddy of mine owns the 404's and we feel the same thing. OK they possess rediculous amount of detail from top to bottom, huge and wide soundstage that is amazingly transparent, and are fantastically dynamic. My problem with them is they lack the easy going liquid naturalness I expect out my normal tube/vintage alnico driver/etc home equipment. I did expect them to be easier on the ears. Hoped for improvement over time but no change.
 Anyway, I'm simply wondering if I should be looking for older models like the Lambda Nova Sig or Lambda Nova Classic or do I need to go further back and look for Lambda Pro or basic Lambda's to get the easy sound I'm looking for. I'd sacrifice a little, not a lot but a little, detail/soundstage/etc to get it. Any suggestions welcome.
 Thank You. -Joe_

 

I find that Silclear contact enhancer gives my 404/717 set-up a much smoother and more powerful sound.


----------



## gimmish

HI, this is my first post here so I'll keep it short. I am looking for something to power my O2s I have been using my srm T1 for them up to now. I know its not enough power for them but I actually still find them very pleasing. My source of course must be helping, Mod-Wright absolute truth Sony scd777es with tubed output stage. I don't have a fortune right now so I am looking for something that will fit my meager budget. I have done research on the forums and I hear that the srm-1 mkII is a good choice in solid state as is the 717. I am also upgrading my T1. I just ordered new tubes and recently added tara labs power cables to the headphone system, quite an improvement. Any leads on the amp or comments about my choices?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Newby looking for SRM-1 mk2_

 

Hi, and welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SRM-1/MK2 sure is a great little solid state amplifier. But I am not sure if it will be a major upgrade, or any upgrade at all, over the SRM-T1. I think you would be better off putting the money into the SRM-T1, or save them for a even bigger upgrade later on.
 But then I have never heard the SRM-T1, and hence I might be totally wrong...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, and welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SRM-1/MK2 sure is a great little solid state amplifier. But I am not sure if it will be a major upgrade, or any upgrade at all, over the SRM-T1. I think you would be better off putting the money into the SRM-T1, or save them for a even bigger upgrade later on.
 But then I have never heard the SRM-T1, and hence I might be totally wrong..._

 

I concur. I have used the SRM-T1 and would suggest either fully modding it with all of spritzer's previous recommendations (you'll find them in this and/or the other Stax thread) or some of the better non-Stax amps/top end Stax amps.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear you man, and I'm too cheap to buy the furniture I'd like to put it in and too inexperienced of a woodworker. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 OK, so the SR-Lambda's are normal bias - 6 pin connectors - 230DC
 Next, and of course I'll check with Woo Audio (pretty sure the one I got from them is 5 pin), are there any sources for the 6 pin connectors or do I have to get them from a Stax transformer box?_

 

I understand the 6-pins are harder to find nowadays and some source them from the older extension cables as well as transformer boxes.

 If you're getting a Woo you could ask whether someone such as Apuresound [AK]Zip would make an adapter for you. I've enquired before and it is possible provided the Woo is outputting exactly as the Gilmour design indicates (It is annoying for us 6-pin afficianados that recent amps rarely have normal bias output 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The original SR-Lambda fits that bill and the Lambda Pro if you can handle the recessed midrange and nonlinear bass/treble. Any pics of the amp?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree. Another choice would be a Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax connector. They have a very even response and easy on the ears. The dynamics are fantastic. The bass is not bad either.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HI, this is my first post here so I'll keep it short. I am looking for something to power my O2s I have been using my srm T1 for them up to now. I know its not enough power for them but I actually still find them very pleasing. My source of course must be helping, Mod-Wright absolute truth Sony scd777es with tubed output stage. I don't have a fortune right now so I am looking for something that will fit my meager budget. I have done research on the forums and I hear that the srm-1 mkII is a good choice in solid state as is the 717. I am also upgrading my T1. I just ordered new tubes and recently added tara labs power cables to the headphone system, quite an improvement. Any leads on the amp or comments about my choices?_

 

I own a 007t, SRM-1 mk2 pro and 717. I love the 717 with the 02's.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_adjustable 0-1000V bias supply for a future transformer box project




_

 

I tried to order one of these switching power supplies from the manufacturer, and they wouldn't sell to an individual. So, I bought one of Ebay. Honestly, these things made me realize that bias supplies are important. The second I hooked it up, things sounded much worse. Just my opinion, but I'd recommend at least trying something else out before deciding.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear you man, and I'm too cheap to buy the furniture I'd like to put it in and too inexperienced of a woodworker. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 OK, so the SR-Lambda's are normal bias - 6 pin connectors - 230DC
 Next, and of course I'll check with Woo Audio (pretty sure the one I got from them is 5 pin), are there any sources for the 6 pin connectors or do I have to get them from a Stax transformer box?_

 

The Woo connectors actually have a hole drilled for the middle pin, it's just filled in and there's no connector behind it. This makes me think you can order a 6-pin version from him.


----------



## Faust2D

While we are on the subject of SRM-1 and Omega 2... Will SRM-1 drive Omega properly, or will it just suck with them?


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried to order one of these switching power supplies from the manufacturer, and they wouldn't sell to an individual. So, I bought one of Ebay. Honestly, these things made me realize that bias supplies are important. The second I hooked it up, things sounded much worse. Just my opinion, but I'd recommend at least trying something else out before deciding._

 

Hmm, that's not good news. Which model were you using? Did you use a regulator prior to the Emco?


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's not good news. Which model were you using? Did you use a regulator prior to the Emco?_

 

I believe it was a F08. I did not use a regulator. The specs are impressive on the Emco units too. I really wanted to try the CA units, as those look very impressive. They just wouldn't sell them to me. The Emco units came recommended by the ESL guys. Definitely try and report back. I ended up just using a 1:2 transfomer (8VA) and a voltage tripler. I tried a few different caps, and settled on some Wima caps (compared to Vishay-Roederstein). I ended up liking some Euro diodes, I'm not sure the exact ones, but they are fast recovery avalanche diodes made by Philips. I added a case mount pot and a switch for high/low voltage and a pair of tip jacks for biasing. Now I'm experimenting with a "neon blink" circuit to regulate the panels, so to not keep the "constant charge resistor" "constantly on". I'll report back


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While we are on the subject of SRM-1 and Omega 2... Will SRM-1 drive Omega properly, or will it just suck with them?_

 

I was listening to Omega II through SRM-313 just recently, and while they do not sound as well controlled, the result is surprisingly good compared to KGSS. Sure, the latter is a considerable all around improvement , but there was nothing too annoying about the SRM-313 - perhaps slightly boomy bass and more diffused presentation.

 SRM-1 Mk2 should do at least as well.


----------



## Tachikoma

I'm going to run my SRD-7SBmk2 with two amplifiers (or just two speaker outputs); one output goes straight to the transformers, while the other goes to the circuitry that provides the bias. Good/bad idea? <_<


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was listening to Omega II through SRM-313 just recently, and while they do not sound as well controlled, the result is surprisingly good compared to KGSS. Sure, the latter is a considerable all around improvement , but there was nothing too annoying about the SRM-313 - perhaps slightly boomy bass and more diffused presentation.

 SRM-1 Mk2 should do at least as well._

 

I'm suprised at your findings. I find the combo simply unlistenable. It cannot IMHO drive them at all.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear you man, and I'm too cheap to buy the furniture I'd like to put it in and too inexperienced of a woodworker. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 OK, so the SR-Lambda's are normal bias - 6 pin connectors - 230DC
 Next, and of course I'll check with Woo Audio (pretty sure the one I got from them is 5 pin), are there any sources for the 6 pin connectors or do I have to get them from a Stax transformer box?_

 

It's a real pain for sure..

 Just use the WPI plugs like the rest of us. Allied Electronics part numbers

 78-S6S is the socket
 86-71-6S is the plug

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Another choice would be a Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax connector. They have a very even response and easy on the ears. The dynamics are fantastic. The bass is not bad either._

 

I need to buy a ESP-950... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm going to run my SRD-7SBmk2 with two amplifiers (or just two speaker outputs); one output goes straight to the transformers, while the other goes to the circuitry that provides the bias. Good/bad idea? <_<_

 

I don't see why you would want to do that as the difference would be minimal. You could just as well convert the adapter over to AC use with a couple of resistors and a power plug.


----------



## 88Sound

Some of the following info I just posted on a thread specifically asking about the mk2..........

 After listening to the mk2 for a few hours........

 If I had to boil it down to a math formula it would go something like this:

 SR007 mk2 = SR007 -F +>B+>I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Translation: Omega II mk2 = Omega II minus Fart plus increased bass plus increased impact.

 I wish I had taken some comparison measurements between the O2 and O2 mk2 before my old O2's were sent to the Stax Hospital........ I think there may be slightly less room for the ear inside the cup of the mk2, this is not an issue for me but may be for some (if it's true).

 Another interesting thing: On the old O2 if you slightly lift the cups from your ears while playing music you get dramatically increased bass. On the mk2 you get bass with a seal only, slightly lifting the cups and the bass goes away.

 The mk2's to me sound like a marriage of sorts between the best electrostatic characteristics and dynamic characteristics. I'm wondering how they pulled that trick off. The internal structure of both phones looks very similar (if not identical) from the outside.

 I also did some comparisons of the mk2 with a K1000 and L3000. For some reason I always listen to dynamic phones at a much louder volume. When I'm listening to the Stax they seem perfect at a much lower level and also seem quite loud until I switch over to the dynamics.

 Time to promote the health benefits of Stax!


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm suprised at your findings. I find the combo simply unlistenable. It cannot IMHO drive them at all._

 

Well, KGSS is much better and in my opinion worth the price difference.. Omega II has excellent imaging, but this characteristic really does not come through well with the Stax amps.

 However, unlistenable is far too strong a word - if you want genuinely unlistenable you have to go as low as the SR-001 system battery powered amp with an adapter...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm suprised at your findings. I find the combo simply unlistenable. It cannot IMHO drive them at all._

 

Unlistenable with SRM-1 or 313?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of the following info I just posted on a thread specifically asking about the mk2..........

 After listening to the mk2 for a few hours........

 If I had to boil it down to a math formula it would go something like this:

 SR007 mk2 = SR007 -F +>B+>I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Translation: Omega II mk2 = Omega II minus Fart plus increased bass plus increased impact.

 I wish I had taken some comparison measurements between the O2 and O2 mk2 before my old O2's were sent to the Stax Hospital........ I think there may be slightly less room for the ear inside the cup of the mk2, this is not an issue for me but may be for some (if it's true).

 Another interesting thing: On the old O2 if you slightly lift the cups from your ears while playing music you get dramatically increased bass. On the mk2 you get bass with a seal only, slightly lifting the cups and the bass goes away.

 The mk2's to me sound like a marriage of sorts between the best electrostatic characteristics and dynamic characteristics. I'm wondering how they pulled that trick off. The internal structure of both phones looks very similar (if not identical) from the outside.

 I also did some comparisons of the mk2 with a K1000 and L3000. For some reason I always listen to dynamic phones at a much louder volume. When I'm listening to the Stax they seem perfect at a much lower level and also seem quite loud until I switch over to the dynamics.

 Time to promote the health benefits of Stax! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Thanks for the write up and making my credit card go hide once again... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax must have implemented some bass reflex tricks in the Mk2 as they did with the 4070. There must be a port hidden in the pads that eliminates the fart until they are compressed and the port is closed. That's how it works on the 4070 as it has ports in the baffle and there is no bass until you close them with your head as the headphones seal. Pretty clever but who's going to rip off the pads for me so I can check... anybody...??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Unlistenable with SRM-1 or 313?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I lived with a 313 pushing my O2's for about a year and I was quite happy until I heard better amps. The SRM-1 Mk2 is a better amp then the 313 and you could live with the combo if you don't spend too much time with a BH or a KGSS...


----------



## naamanf

Does anyone know yet if the newer MK2 pads will fit on the O2?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know yet if the newer MK2 pads will fit on the O2?_

 

I believe nobody around here know that for sure.
 But their housing looks identical, so I will be surprised if the are not interchangeable.

 Guess there are only way to find out...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know yet if the newer MK2 pads will fit on the O2?_

 

None that I'm aware of but I will order some the next time I order more Stax supplies. 

 Would either of the Mk2 owners take a picture of the inside of the earcup with a strong light shining though the drivers. That might give some clues as to if something is changed in the substructure.


----------



## macm75

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The original SR-Lambda fits that bill..._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I compared SR-303 to SR Lambda, I discovered that SR Lambda is what you crave..._

 

Anyone have or heard more than one samples they have acquired thru the years? Just wondering if (given the age of the SR-Lambda's) there is a sonic quality concern from unit to unit seen on the open marketplaces. If the sonics are good, any other thing to look out for outside of earpads or cracked frames? 
 I am particularly asking because I have an old set of SR-40's and although they are amazingly easy on the ear, the dynamics and frequency range is as awful as it gets. I understand they are a different animal but I have to assume those SR-40's were way better than what I hear from them today.
 Thanks, Joe


----------



## naamanf

Untill I get my BH finished I will be using a 007ta. Any suggestions on upgrades? Tubes?


----------



## milkpowder

For your 007t? You can start with a matched quad of RCA Cleartops or Raytheons. They're pretty cheap, but finding a matched quad may require a bit of effort.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Translation: Omega II mk2 = Omega II minus Fart plus increased bass plus increased impact.
_

 

Hmm. I personally would NOT want increased bass quantity over what I consider generous quantity of OII. If anything, I would wish for a bit less bass quantity with a smidge more output in the upper-mid/low-treble area. This would motivate me to join Team Stax


----------



## Katysax

I just got a Stax 007t and 0404 headphones used courtesy of another head fier. I had tried the 001 and liked it so I thought I'd try for a little bit more. The nice thing about this set up is that I can upgrade to the Omegas if I want.

 Sor far I'm kind of surprised how much bass there is but I'm wondering where the highs went. Not as crystalline in the highs as my K701s. I hear timbre in singer's voices that I never heard; the instruments are not as separated as the K701s. 

 Definitely a completely different listening experience than my dynamic headphones and I do hear the flaws in the sources even more.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have or heard more than one samples they have acquired thru the years? Just wondering if (given the age of the SR-Lambda's) there is a sonic quality concern from unit to unit seen on the open marketplaces. If the sonics are good, any other thing to look out for outside of earpads or cracked frames?_

 

I have two pair of SR-Lambda Pro's and they booth did sound identical to me.
 I said "did", because I now have removed all back wave damping in one of the pairs. But thats another story...

 That let me to believe that the Stax had small tolerances when they produced the Lambda's, and that they keep up very well during the years.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Katysax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a Stax 007t and 0404 headphones used courtesy of another head fier. I had tried the 001 and liked it so I thought I'd try for a little bit more. The nice thing about this set up is that I can upgrade to the Omegas if I want._

 

Nice move!
 Welcome aboard. It will hopefully be a nice journey.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Katysax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely a completely different listening experience than my dynamic headphones and I do hear the flaws in the sources even more._

 

Thats quite normal with electrostatics.
 They are very resolving, and don't hide flaws in the upstream signal path. Unlike some (most?) dynamic headphones.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Untill I get my BH finished I will be using a 007ta. Any suggestions on upgrades? Tubes?_

 

There is a matched set of RCA's packed with your unit. 
 Happy waiting!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have or heard more than one samples they have acquired thru the years? Just wondering if (given the age of the SR-Lambda's) there is a sonic quality concern from unit to unit seen on the open marketplaces. If the sonics are good, any other thing to look out for outside of earpads or cracked frames?_

 

I own 2 sets of Lambda Pro's and sold 1 set recently. All three sounded the same. I have 2 sets of SR Lambda's and they sound the same. Same with SR-XIII's. Stax must have great QC with their drivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have or heard more than one samples they have acquired thru the years? Just wondering if (given the age of the SR-Lambda's) there is a sonic quality concern from unit to unit seen on the open marketplaces. If the sonics are good, any other thing to look out for outside of earpads or cracked frames? 
 I am particularly asking because I have an old set of SR-40's and although they are amazingly easy on the ear, the dynamics and frequency range is as awful as it gets. I understand they are a different animal but I have to assume those SR-40's were way better than what I hear from them today.
 Thanks, Joe_

 

I've had 5 different sets and they all sound the same even the one that had had a pretty rough life. Stax QC was excelent but you should be vary of any set with a channel imbalance as they are as good as dead. 

 The SR-40's are electrets and they will deteriorate with age. That is a given fact.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a matched set of RCA's packed with your unit. 
 Happy waiting!_

 

Well that make that easy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks again Bill.

 And now I wait.


----------



## naamanf

Well in the down time I received the headphones and amp. Any recommendations on proper fitting for optimum sound? And now I finally know what the Stax fart is


----------



## krmathis

^ Perhaps you can refresh us on what you have bought and received? 
 Cause your signature mention no Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway. Welcome to the club!


----------



## naamanf

I have the Omega II with a 007T amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well in the down time I received the headphones and amp. Any recommendations on proper fitting for optimum sound? And now I finally know what the Stax fart is
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's best to have the seam on the earpads pointing forward and about 30-45° upwards towards the temples. It's hard to gauge the pressure on the head and if it is too much or too little but you can try to alter the angle of the earpieces while they are on the head by pushing in the silver Stax logo and pulling the cable entry outwards. Be careful not to cover the grill and not break the seal as that will dramatically alter the sound and give a false positive. A small change can make all the difference.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the Omega II with a 007T amp._

 

Ah, nice!
 Then you certainly have one of the better sounding systems out there.

 Rotate the earpads so they point forwards/upwards in a 45° angle. That seems to give the best fit for most of us.


----------



## naamanf

Thanks for the replies. That is actually where I had them. Just seemed to fit the best in that position. So far I am really digging them. I think when I get a better source and finish (when ever that might be) the BH I should be in business.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well I joined Team STAX during the outage.

 I mailed off a money order to Plaidplatypus about 30 minutes before head-fi went down on the 10th, and I got my SR-Lambda's and SRD-X before the Holiday.

 I am very impressed with them so far. I need to spend more time listening, and comparing them to my HD600 and Proline 2500 (also new), but the initial impressions are they all sound similarly excellent, with the scales tipped towards the STAX...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I joined Team STAX during the outage.

 I mailed off a money order to Plaidplatypus about 30 minutes before head-fi went down on the 10th, and I got my SR-Lambda's and SRD-X before the Holiday._

 

Welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Lots of people joining Team Stax these days. Guess thats a good thing...


----------



## pipoplus

I was looking for a Stax while now.
 and after looking on Ebay and other sites from the US to EU and Japan I finally found one in my league. An Lambda basic with a srm-212 driver for $300
 In new condition with 10 hours time on them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Here is the funny part: The guy who was selling them was living 500 meters from my house!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking for a Stax while now.
 and after looking on Ebay and other sites from the US to EU and Japan I finally found one in my league. An Lambda basic with a srm-212 driver for $300
 In new condition with 10 hours time on them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Here is the funny part: The guy who was selling them was living 500 meters from my house!_

 

He he, nice... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 How do you like i? Impressions, and pictures would be great.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking for a Stax while now.
 and after looking on Ebay and other sites from the US to EU and Japan I finally found one in my league. An Lambda basic with a srm-212 driver for $300
 In new condition with 10 hours time on them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Here is the funny part: The guy who was selling them was living 500 meters from my house!_

 

Great deal! Enjoy!


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Rotate the earpads so they point forwards/upwards in a 45° angle. That seems to give the best fit for most of us._

 

Not for me, that's for sure.
 I my case the seam is at the back pointing ~40° downwards.
 I guess everyone has to experiment for himself.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not for me, that's for sure.
 I my case the seam is at the back pointing ~40° downwards.
 I guess everyone has to experiment for himself._

 

This is very different from the Stax intended fit...


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is very different from the Stax intended fit..._

 

Yes, seems I'm the odd man out in this case, but OTOH when I look at the inner shape of the pads and the shape of my ears ( and ears in general) *you all are wrong*.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 In the end I don't care.I've spent a fortune for the headphones and therefor I have the right to wear them however I want, even upside down and with the headband arc pierced through the nose.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not for me, that's for sure.
 I my case the seam is at the back pointing ~40° downwards.
 I guess everyone has to experiment for himself._

 

Strange! But guess we all have different head shape.
 Most important is that the individual user experiment with different positions, and find the optimal one for his taste.


----------



## pompon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SteveA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi All!
 Well the stock cable on the Senns has gone belly-up. I can either buy a replacement stock cable or a pricey Stefan Audio or Cardas cable. But sorry, I have trouble spending $200 for a piece of wire. This is a personal thing Steve_

 

The cable is the key to good sound. If you prefer pay more for different setup ... up to you.

 200$ it's not expansive to have 2 times more quality.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable is the key to good sound. If you prefer pay more for different setup ... up to you.

 200$ it's not expansive to have 2 times more quality._

 

I guess you've posted in the wrong thread.
 Besides of that, it isn't 2 times more quality, it's at least 5 times and night and day difference and OMG.


----------



## milkpowder

I dearly hope you were just joking about the difference.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not for me, that's for sure.
 I my case the seam is at the back pointing ~40° downwards.
 I guess everyone has to experiment for himself._

 

I shall have to try this...


----------



## ferraro25

Got the SRS-2050II on Nov 12th. Though not absolutely amazing, the 202 is better than every other headphone I own.

 My main problem with it is that it can sound veiled compared to the K501. The 202 is probably more neutral, though.

 Another problem I have with it is its soundstage. It is too small and lacks depth. Cramped.

 Also, it could be more musical. Not as euphonic as it should be, sometimes.

 What I like about the 202 (and SRM-252II): 
 1. it has the best bass-mid-treble balance I've heard yet... my complaints with it are that the midrange might be a little too recessed, the bass response can be odd, and, as I mentioned, it can sound a bit veiled; 
 2. I can still hear details and sounds good even when a lot is going on (in spite of the small soundstage), unlike all of my other headphones which become a noisy mess; 
 3. it is significantly more accurate (and thus real) than any of my other headphones - this is most easily noticeable for me with hands clapping and sibilance, which both sound close to how they should;
 4. it actually does have impact, power, and "thump," but not to what I would consider a distracting level;
 5. it seems to have higher dynamic volume range than my other headphones;
 6. it is surprisingly good with all kinds of music, rap and rock included;
 7. it is forgiving enough to allow listening to lower-quality recordings, yet makes high-quality recordings sound as good as I've heard them; and
 8. overall, it makes my K501, formerly my favorite headphone, sound cheap.

 The only thing left for me to do is to eventually get a quality DAC. The sound of the 202 is good enough for me to stop considering buying any more headphones, same as the K501 was good enough for to stop considering dynamics.

 edited to add: for some reason my signature is not showing up.


----------



## krmathis

ferraro25. Welcome to the team. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The SR-202 (SRM-252II) might not be "perfect". But it sure is a nice little system, which beat most headphones in its price range. It will also scale nicely with better amplification, if you ever want to spend more $$.

 Enjoy!


----------



## derekbmn

I personally don't have much new here to report on the Stax front , but am looking forward to some more impressions on the 007 mk2s. And again where is Carl !?? Anyone know ?


----------



## milkpowder

Posts merged.


----------



## milkpowder

Gosh, haven't seen Carl around for ages. Been wondering where he is too.




 Actually, there _is_ something interesting to report. In fact, it's pretty big news.

Clicky here! Out of my price range, but what does the Stax Mafia think?

 Is a 120dB S/N ratio even realistic for a tube design?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...but am looking forward to some more impressions on the 007 mk2s._

 


 Glad Head-Fi is back!

 My SR-007mk2 now has hundreds of hours on it and I still have the same problems with them (veiled sounding, not as punchy in the bass, and less efficient than my 007’s). The mk2 sounds great till you go back to the 007. They are much better than when I first listened to them but the 007 is still much better IMO. I talked to the Stax USA agent and he told me that Stax Japan would like to see my set. Stax USA also wanted to wait for the next shipment (the next production run) to replace my unit even though they have mk2’s (first production run) in stock. The next shipment is due by the EOM. The saga continues….

 AudioD


----------



## milkpowder

At least they'll replace your SR-007. The customer services sounds great.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I personally don't have much new here to report on the Stax front , but am looking forward to some more impressions on the 007 mk2s. And again where is Carl !?? Anyone know ?_

 

I can say nothing bad has happened. Been chatting with him elsewhere within the last half hour. I don't know any reasons why he's not here much lately, but I do know he thinks he spends too much time posting on forums. He also has other expensive hobbies so it may be an effort in avoiding temptation. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I asked him and it's just like I thought. He just posts on too many forums so tends to disappear from them from time to time if he doesn't have the time to spare.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Clicky here! Out of my price range, but what does the Stax Mafia think?_

 

I'm told that there is no Stax Mafia, but what do I know, I'm only a lowly associate.

 That 9500 Euro price is a bit much, considering current exchange rates.

 I'm not having much faith in a manufacturer who can't get the description of the tube complement right, is it four EL84 or EL34?


----------



## pipoplus

I acquired my second Stax today; this time the portable one the SRM-001 headphone/driver combination.
 After puting on some new earbuds the headphones are sounding pretty good!
 Anyone knows what the acoustic difference is between the old SRM-001 and the the newer MKII version?

 anyone has an adapter cable for it so I can use it on a big driver?


----------



## 2deadeyes

I'm currently considering the STAX camp and have a quick question. Are there any differences between the STAX headphones imported from Japan versus the ones from STAX USA besides the regions they're shipped from?


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I'm currently considering the STAX camp and have a quick question. Are there any differences between the STAX headphones imported from Japan versus the ones from STAX USA besides the regions they're shipped from? 
 

I believe only the voltage of the drivers (100v instead of 110V) and the warranty are the differences


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, there is something interesting to report. In fact, it's pretty big news.

Clicky here! Out of my price range, but what does the Stax Mafia think?

 Is a 120dB S/N ratio even realistic for a tube design?_

 

Don't get me started on this POS... (I need a vomiting smiley...)

 I somebody buys this he needs his head checked...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad Head-Fi is back!

 My SR-007mk2 now has hundreds of hours on it and I still have the same problems with them (veiled sounding, not as punchy in the bass, and less efficient than my 007’s). The mk2 sounds great till you go back to the 007. They are much better than when I first listened to them but the 007 is still much better IMO. I talked to the Stax USA agent and he told me that Stax Japan would like to see my set. Stax USA also wanted to wait for the next shipment (the next production run) to replace my unit even though they have mk2’s (first production run) in stock. The next shipment is due by the EOM. The saga continues….

 AudioD_

 

I'm sure your's is an odd one out as the other feedback I've got has been positive. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can say nothing bad has happened. Been chatting with him elsewhere within the last half hour. I don't know any reasons why he's not here much lately, but I do know he thinks he spends too much time posting on forums. He also has other expensive hobbies so it may be an effort in avoiding temptation. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I asked him and it's just like I thought. He just posts on too many forums so tends to disappear from them from time to time if he doesn't have the time to spare._

 

Traitor!!!! Tell him to stop by here or at the other place as I miss our crazy amp talk...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I acquired my second Stax today; this time the portable one the SRM-001 headphone/driver combination.
 After puting on some new earbuds the headphones are sounding pretty good!
 Anyone knows what the acoustic difference is between the old SRM-001 and the the newer MKII version?

 anyone has an adapter cable for it so I can use it on a big driver?_

 

I am not sure about the adapter cable but I thought the guy who puts Stax cables on the Koss 950 had such an item. (who is he?)

 These are sweet phones. You really want an upgraded connecting cord however. I just came back from a wilderness camping trip to Death Valley and used these there with a portable cd player. A great experience all around, acoustic and vacational.






 This shows us setting up camp in the evening about 1500 feet above the valley floor after driving several miles up a rocky road. Interesting that the moon looks so much smaller in the photo than it appears when you are there. Called the Moon Illusion and much studied by perceptual psychologists. Moon illusion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe only the voltage of the drivers (100v instead of 110V) and the warranty are the differences_

 

You mean the AC input for the amps that drives them right? I thought voltage bias for the actual headphones were much higher.


----------



## shaizada

I am definitely looking forward to more impressions of the SE-007 MKII and what actually happens with the second shipment. I really hope those issues are addressed.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Great to see Head-Fi's back! I've missed all you Stax contributors!

 Quick query: can I use NiMH rechargeables (1.2v) on a SR-001?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to see Head-Fi's back! I've missed all you Stax contributors!

 Quick query: can I use NiMH rechargeables (1.2v) on a SR-001?_

 

Quick answer. Yes!


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't get me started on this POS... (I need a vomiting smiley...)

 I somebody buys this he needs his head checked..._

 

That was certainly my thought looking at the parts complement. Tube choices don't come any more generic than 12ax7s with EL34s.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Traitor!!!! Tell him to stop by here or at the other place as I miss our crazy amp talk... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Will do.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not sure about the adapter cable but I thought the guy who puts Stax cables on the Koss 950 had such an item. (who is he?)_

 

I believe that would be Alex, aka [AK]Zip.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's not good news. Which model were you using? Did you use a regulator prior to the Emco?_

 

tyre:

 I just bought some more Emco units on Ebay. This time five E10s. I'm going to try them again. They're just so convenient. I'm going to try using a regulator before the Emco as you suggested. In fact, probably a simple TREAD supply, as I have one on hand. Did you ever come to a conclusion about the switchers?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I believe that would be Alex, aka [AK]Zip._

 

That's the guy and this is the adapter for the Stax SR001 to 5 pin.

APureSound - Where The Music Is Always Pure


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was certainly my thought looking at the parts complement. Tube choices don't come any more generic than 12ax7s with EL34s._

 

It's just like the dozens of power amps designed in the 50's and onwards. For 9500€ I would expect something special, not a clone of a vintage 300$ amp in an ugly case...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will do._

 

Thanks


----------



## piotr z

well probably they use this tubes coz they are good - but amp. is really insainly priced 

 --> what kind of parts did You use in your blue hawaii ??


----------



## piotr z

that was to spitzer of course


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 You mean the AC input for the amps that drives them right? I thought voltage bias for the actual headphones were much higher. 
 

 yes I mean the AC input


  Quote:


 Quote:
 Originally Posted by Johnny Blue View Post
 Great to see Head-Fi's back! I've missed all you Stax contributors!

 Quick query: can I use NiMH rechargeables (1.2v) on a SR-001?
 Quick answer. Yes! 
 

+1 on that


----------



## tyre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* 
_I just bought some more Emco units on Ebay. This time five E10s._

 

I also bought my set of 5 from the same guy, even though I only needed one or two. I paid about twice as much as you did though. :/

 The E10's ripple is .03% of the output voltage. Your F08's ripple is .1%. So maybe the E10 will be a slight improvement. For some reason, none of the Emco datasheets mention the switching frequency of the oscillator, although high voltage converters are probably never considered for audio purposes, so it's irrelevant to their usual customers.

  Quote:


 I'm going to try using a regulator before the Emco as you suggested. In fact, probably a simple TREAD supply, as I have one on hand. 
 

Yeah, I'm going to use an LM317 based power supply. Fortunately, someone's already done the math for us. Here's an ESL power supply schematic, also using an Emco with a 12V input limit. Here's a link to the website.

ESL Bias Supply Construction






 He's using the negative output to bias the diaphragms in that schematic. I've read elsewhere that this is not a good idea as it will attract dust to diaphragms. I'll probably end up using a variation of his, except using the positive output.






  Quote:


 Did you ever come to a conclusion about the switchers? 
 

I still haven't used one yet as I don't have any of my electrical parts handy.

 It's still unclear to me how much noise/AC ripple is acceptable in a bias supply. But I get the impression that the quality of the bias supply is not particularly important, especially after reading that thread you started over on diyaudio asking the same question.


----------



## mirumu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I'm going to use an LM317 based power supply. Fortunately, someone's already done the math for us. Here's an ESL power supply schematic, also using an Emco with a 12V input limit. Here's a link to the website._

 

On another tangent, a 12V input seems a bit more conducive to the use of batteries too although I see these E series converters use about 3 watts. Emco also have a Q series with consumption closer to around 0.5 watts. The ripple is worse on these but with a regulated battery source I wonder if it would be so much of an issue?

 I need to build a bias supply anyway (just signed up to Digikey tonight actually) and would be keen to try myself, but there's no sign of any Q series converters on Ebay nor can I find any retailers using Google. No sign of any more E series models either actually, it looks like you guys have cornered the market on them.


----------



## Johnny Blue

I got lucky with an SR-001 Mk2 off eBay, it's just turned up in the post and my initial impressions are:

 a) it's tiny! (I'd only ever seen pictures, so was shocked at how small the combo is and how light the parcel was: I thought the seller had forgotten to put them in!)

 b) sound is great: very different from the Lambdas (modern) and the SR-X/SR-5s (old) but still with that basic lovely Stax clean-ness.

 c) comfort! (once I'd prised them out of the vice-like grip of the headband and just stuck them in my ears, I can forget they're there! Unlike the others, which have varying degrees of discomfort after a time... )

 These are SO good! And portable! (Not that I'm off to Death Valley any day soon: Ashdown Forest more like!)

 Now I'll have to start thinking about one of those adapters that APureSound makes, just to see what the S-001s sound like driven by a bigger amp!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And again where is Carl !?? Anyone know ?_

 

Yes, where have he gone?
 Its been over two months (Last Activity: 09-25-2007 12:12 AM) since last time he visited the forum...

 Sure hope he is fine, and that nothing have happened to him! 
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, there is something interesting to report. In fact, it's pretty big news.
Clicky here! Out of my price range, but what does the Stax Mafia think?

 Is a 120dB S/N ratio even realistic for a tube design?_

 

Looks interesting.
 But with a price tag of €9500 I am quite sure the Coriolan wont sell much. Its just insanely expensive for what it is, imo.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad Head-Fi is back!

 My SR-007mk2 now has hundreds of hours on it and I still have the same problems with them (veiled sounding, not as punchy in the bass, and less efficient than my 007’s). The mk2 sounds great till you go back to the 007. They are much better than when I first listened to them but the 007 is still much better IMO. I talked to the Stax USA agent and he told me that Stax Japan would like to see my set. Stax USA also wanted to wait for the next shipment (the next production run) to replace my unit even though they have mk2’s (first production run) in stock. The next shipment is due by the EOM. The saga continues….

 AudioD_

 

Sad to see that the 007mk2 still are having major problems.
 But nice to see that the distributor and Stax gives you great support and want to check out this particular pair. Then give you a new one.

 Hopefully its just your pair, and nothing general wrong with their production line. Guess we will just have to wait and see...
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can say nothing bad has happened. Been chatting with him elsewhere within the last half hour. I don't know any reasons why he's not here much lately, but I do know he thinks he spends too much time posting on forums. He also has other expensive hobbies so it may be an effort in avoiding temptation. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I asked him and it's just like I thought. He just posts on too many forums so tends to disappear from them from time to time if he doesn't have the time to spare._

 

Great to hear!
 At least he is running stong, and might get back to us some time...
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I acquired my second Stax today; this time the portable one the SRM-001 headphone/driver combination.
 After puting on some new earbuds the headphones are sounding pretty good!
 Anyone knows what the acoustic difference is between the old SRM-001 and the the newer MKII version?

 anyone has an adapter cable for it so I can use it on a big driver?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRM-001MK2 sure is a great little system.

 There were no changes to the SRM-001 during the mk2 update. Only the phones were updated (from S-001 to S-001mk2).
 Alex ([AK]Zip) might be able to help you with an adapter cable. At least he offered to make me one last year.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also bought my set of 5 from the same guy, even though I only needed one or two. I paid about twice as much as you did though. :/_

 

heh, I'll probably just relist the others and keep two. I have two jacks on my amplifier and I'm thinking about one adjustable and one fixed bias using two Emco supplies. I recently milled my end plates and have room for a pot, two tip jacks, and a switch. The switch was for a "high-low" option, but I'm not sure I'll need that now. I'm looking into multi-turn panel mount pots at this point, probably will go with either Mouser M43P102KB40 or Mouser 652-3006Y-1-102Z-LF. I've never used these types of pots, but figure they should be better than the standard Alpha carbon types. opinions? Depending on how much room you want the output the vary (I'm thinking 300-650V) and looking at the datasheets, I can guess what voltage input range that will be (4-10V) but I'm going to measure once I get the parts and then go from there.

 edit: I will most definitely have to use a 15 VAC input to the adjustable regulator, as I already have this available in my psu chassis and I have run out of room for more (even small) toroids. (I have 4 toroids now!)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The E10's ripple is .03% of the output voltage. Your F08's ripple is .1%. So maybe the E10 will be a slight improvement. For some reason, none of the Emco datasheets mention the switching frequency of the oscillator, although high voltage converters are probably never considered for audio purposes, so it's irrelevant to their usual customers._

 

yup, i agree. Also, I'm wondering if the unit itself was emitting some RF noise or injecting it back into the mains voltage, perhaps that was the issue I had before? Do you think any shielding would help? I'm thinking about adding a DC filter in addition to my EMI filter. I did this on a phono pre that I made. I used the formula from here:

DIY Audio Tips & Tricks

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll probably end up using a variation of his, except using the positive output.





_

 

one thing we might consider, is a diode and cap similar to this schematic:

http://www.emcohighvoltage.com/CM1.pdf

 the diode is just simple polarity protection, but caps on either end might be of some benefit. Like I said, I am recycling a tread supply and I expect it will work well, but it doesn't have an capacitance on the output and expects the power-ee to have some rail capacitance.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tyre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still haven't used one yet as I don't have any of my electrical parts handy.

 It's still unclear to me how much noise/AC ripple is acceptable in a bias supply. But I get the impression that the quality of the bias supply is not particularly important, especially after reading that thread you started over on diyaudio asking the same question._

 

yup... also the current demands are unclear to me, though Spritzer thinks (knows? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) it can peak in the mA, I'm thinking more like uA.

 Spritzer:

 Since I have an available switch, do you think a 4.7M / 5M constant charge resistor option would be overkill? I guess it can just sit there and look cool


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *piotr z* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well probably they use this tubes coz they are good - but amp. is really insainly priced 

 --> what kind of parts did You use in your blue hawaii ??_

 

That is a horrible tube compliment but it used a be a popular one. The 12ax7 is a toy and the EL34 needs a better driver. An amp at this price level shouldn't even be using crappy pentodes...

 My amp was built by Headamp with every upgrade available at the time. It needs an upgrade quite badly but I always have some other project I'm working on...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yup... also the current demands are unclear to me, though Spritzer thinks (knows? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) it can peak in the mA, I'm thinking more like uA.

 Spritzer:

 Since I have an available switch, do you think a 4.7M / 5M constant charge resistor option would be overkill? I guess it can just sit there and look cool _

 

The current is hard to nail down as it depends on the diaphragm and what it happening but the Beyer ET-1000 shows that there really isn't such a thing as too much power. They leak bias and go through a few 1uf caps in a minute or two. 

 Are you going to switch between 4.7 and 5m? That would be totally unnecessary but a 5m in series with the 4.7 would be good for non Stax phones.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you going to switch between 4.7 and 5m? That would be totally unnecessary but a 5m in series with the 4.7 would be good for non Stax phones._

 

ya, that's what I meant. 4.7M in series without and then ~10M in series with the switch. just a thought, as I have a switch there why not use it for something.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ya, that's what I meant. 4.7M in series without and then ~10M in series with the switch. just a thought, as I have a switch there why not use it for something._

 

Well since it is there.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 You could notice some difference but I'm not sure just how much. I usually solder everything in so comparisons are hard to come by and you have to totally clear the diaphragm of any charge before you can compare...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well since it is there.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You could notice some difference but I'm not sure just how much. I usually solder everything in so comparisons are hard to come by and you have to totally clear the diaphragm of any charge before you can compare..._

 

scratch that. It will have to be 5M / 10M, as I cannot get any 4.7M high voltage resistors.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mirumu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to build a bias supply anyway (just signed up to Digikey tonight actually) and would be keen to try myself, but there's no sign of any Q series converters on Ebay nor can I find any retailers using Google. No sign of any more E series models either actually, it looks like you guys have cornered the market on them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I will have some left over when it's all said and done. Holler at me and I'll put your name on one


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got lucky with an SR-001 Mk2 off eBay, it's just turned up in the post and my initial impressions are:

 a) it's tiny! (I'd only ever seen pictures, so was shocked at how small the combo is and how light the parcel was: I thought the seller had forgotten to put them in!)

 b) sound is great: very different from the Lambdas (modern) and the SR-X/SR-5s (old) but still with that basic lovely Stax clean-ness.

 c) comfort! (once I'd prised them out of the vice-like grip of the headband and just stuck them in my ears, I can forget they're there! Unlike the others, which have varying degrees of discomfort after a time... )

 These are SO good! And portable! (Not that I'm off to Death Valley any day soon: Ashdown Forest more like!)

 Now I'll have to start thinking about one of those adapters that APureSound makes, just to see what the S-001s sound like driven by a bigger amp!_

 


 Just bend the metal band for comfort.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 My amp was built by Headamp with every upgrade available at the time. It needs an upgrade quite badly but I always have some other project I'm working on..._

 

 What type of upgrades? I am currently in the process of building a BH and was wondering what can really be done to max it out.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_scratch that. It will have to be 5M / 10M, as I cannot get any 4.7M high voltage resistors._

 

I've used all types of resistors for the bleeder and never had any problems even with cheap carbon pieces of crap. This it's better to be safe then sorry as this small, cheap parts keeps both you and the phones safe. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What type of upgrades? I am currently in the process of building a BH and was wondering what can really be done to max it out._

 

When I bought mine I was young a stupid and didn't even have a bit of the knowledge I have now about components so the amp is pretty far from ideal. It has Vampire silver wire and Black Gate caps so a complete overhaul is in order. The ultimate upgrade would be to use a dual mono tube rectified psu with no regulation, massive chokes and PIO caps but that would be about 4 times the size of the amp and use a whole lot more power. 

 A more realistic way would be to start with quality silver wiring on every thing, the best connectors and as few extra connections as you can do, so no switches or other degrading things. Use the best volume control you can afford so a RK50 or a Shalco unit loaded with AN tantalums or Rikens. Use said resistors instead of the metal film stuff as they are good budget choices but have no place in the cost no object part of the world. The PSU is a more trouble some subject but I would start off with better transformer, something like a nice R-core from one of the major Japanese manufacturers and you could even put in a dual mono unit but there are certainly better PSU's out there though they will be much, much more expensive.


----------



## naamanf

I'm not even going to touch the power supply of things for a while. 

 I am on the fence of what to do for volume control. Do you think it is beneficial to have have independent L/R volume control? I would prefer to have a single volume knob. I was thinking DACT, Twisted Pear Joshua Tree, or possibly no volume control at all. Do all volume from pre-amp or DAC.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you could even put in a dual mono unit but there are certainly better PSU's out there though they will be much, much more expensive._

 

I don't know, like maybe dual Plitron toroids?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not even going to touch the power supply of things for a while. 

 I am on the fence of what to do for volume control. Do you think it is beneficial to have have independent L/R volume control? I would prefer to have a single volume knob. I was thinking DACT, Twisted Pear Joshua Tree, or possibly no volume control at all. Do all volume from pre-amp or DAC._

 

If you plan on having earspeakers with a large sound stage, ex. Sigma, I would suggest having independent volume control to keep things that were recorded off-center in the center of your head. 

 With Lambdas I would choose just a single volume control for ease of use.


----------



## Fitz

You have GOT to be kidding me.


----------



## Duggeh

Thats about £68 at the current exchange rate. Pretty good price.


----------



## naamanf

It looks like we are the new Mexico


----------



## Veniogenesis

It's no joke. It's haarvi. He will pay anything to have what he wants. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I should have kept my Sigma Pro...


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats about £68 at the current exchange rate. Pretty good price._

 

Exactly my thought.
 I've found $180 in a drawer last weekend.
 I never looked at it this way before but take one of those greenbacks and inspect it thoroughly.It doesn't look and feel like real money.More like play money ......


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's no joke. It's haarvi. He will pay anything to have what he wants. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

That was some SR-Sigma auction, about the same price as a used SR-007.

 I think I've lost to haarvi before. I wonder if he is interested in an SR-Omega.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not even going to touch the power supply of things for a while. 

 I am on the fence of what to do for volume control. Do you think it is beneficial to have have independent L/R volume control? I would prefer to have a single volume knob. I was thinking DACT, Twisted Pear Joshua Tree, or possibly no volume control at all. Do all volume from pre-amp or DAC._

 

Just use a single volume control as if the phones have balance issues then they are destined for the scrap heap. DACT is good but there just aren't enough steps so a Joshua Tree would be better but I'm more of a POT kind of guy...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know, like maybe dual Plitron toroids? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Nahh... I'd settle for an EI core but a R-core is a must have. Damn toroids...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have GOT to be kidding me._

 

The condition is horrible so I'd like to know what I'll get for my NOS Sigma Pro's with new earpads and spares...


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just use a single volume control as if the phones have balance issues then they are destined for the scrap heap. DACT is good but there just aren't enough steps so a Joshua Tree would be better but I'm more of a POT kind of guy..._

 

Know of any pots other than the RK50? $1200x2 is just a bit much for volume control. Then again I think Duggeh could get them for about £120 across the pond


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was some SR-Sigma auction, about the same price as a used SR-007.

 I think I've lost to haarvi before. I wonder if he is interested in an SR-Omega._

 

Those were actually Sigma Pros... but Damn! And I thought I threw a crazy bid on there! (I'm the guy who bid close to $800 US). I figure on something this rare, you gotta step up and throw some money at it. At the end of the day, Ebay auctions really do show the true market value of extremely rare pieces.

 I guess I'll just have to suffer with my SR-Sigmas.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Know of any pots other than the RK50? $1200x2 is just a bit much for volume control. Then again I think Duggeh could get them for about £120 across the pond
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You could always get the 4 level RK27 pot for less then 40$. A DACT is quite a bit better but you don't really care about that when the desired level is right between steps... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm so glad I bought a source with a volume control so I can bypass the steppers on my BH. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those were actually Sigma Pros... but Damn! And I thought I threw a crazy bid on there! (I'm the guy who bid close to $800 US). I figure on something this rare, you gotta step up and throw some money at it. At the end of the day, Ebay auctions really do show the true market value of extremely rare pieces.

 I guess I'll just have to suffer with my SR-Sigmas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ebay shows the stupidity of people willing to throw money at something with no sense at all. A very good example of a Sigma Pro sold for some 60000 YJP a month or so ago so that would be closer to the market prize. 

 I prefer the SR-Sigma to the Pro model. The Signature drivers weren't really the best choice for the job so I guess the 404 drivers should be great for the job.


----------



## ferrstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ebay shows the stupidity of people willing to throw money at something with no sense at all. A very good example of a Sigma Pro sold for some 60000 YJP a month or so ago so that would be closer to the market prize._

 

Well, I suppose if there's a cheaper alternative out there then yeah, the ebay thing is a bit out of hand. The bottom line is that I bid an amount that would have allowed me to get a pair of Sigma Pro's, listen to them, and sell them again at little or no loss if I decided they weren't for me. Now that final price was a bit of a surprise to me... but I did sell a mint-in-box set of SR Sigmas a few weeks ago on Ebay and got quite a bit more than I thought I would for those. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I prefer the SR-Sigma to the Pro model. The Signature drivers weren't really the best choice for the job so I guess the 404 drivers should be great for the job._

 

That's good to hear. I do like my SR-Sigma's. Are those the same drivers as the SR-Lambda drivers? I'm starting to get quite a collection of normal-bias Staxes over here. Right now I have two pair of SR-Lambdas and one SR-Sigma. All of them sound pretty damn good to my ears!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Far, far from the heady realms of Sigmas and building your own amps...

 ...can any UK-based Head-Fi/Staxer recommend a suitable 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack interconnect cable to connect my portable CD/MP3 players to my (new, to me) SR-001?

 (On second thoughts, you don't have to be UK-based, but the cable you recommend should be!)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I suppose if there's a cheaper alternative out there then yeah, the ebay thing is a bit out of hand. The bottom line is that I bid an amount that would have allowed me to get a pair of Sigma Pro's, listen to them, and sell them again at little or no loss if I decided they weren't for me. Now that final price was a bit of a surprise to me... but I did sell a mint-in-box set of SR Sigmas a few weeks ago on Ebay and got quite a bit more than I thought I would for those._

 

The Japanese market is a much better reference point as to what these things are really worth. There are some items that go for record breaking amounts on the bay but then when the next similar item shows up it goes for a steal. I'm willing to spend quite a bit for the right set but auctions like this are just nuts. Half the fun for me is to find this stuff cheaply... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's good to hear. I do like my SR-Sigma's. Are those the same drivers as the SR-Lambda drivers? I'm starting to get quite a collection of normal-bias Staxes over here. Right now I have two pair of SR-Lambdas and one SR-Sigma. All of them sound pretty damn good to my ears!_

 

The SR-Lambda borrowed the SR-sigma driver though they sound very, very different. The SR-Lambda continues to be one of my favorite headphones and it is absolutely stunning out of the old style 200v Stax drivers as they sound nothing like the post 1975 units.


----------



## Elephas




----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Pr0n!!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I need to check if Stax still has some of the outer grills as mine have a few scuffs on them...


----------



## luvdunhill

not that I want to dethrone the mightly Mullard EL34s, but has anyone tried any KT77s? Granted a quad would cost ~$2,000 but ....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_not that I want to dethrone the mightly Mullard EL34s, but has anyone tried any KT77s? Granted a quad would cost ~$2,000 but .... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I haven't tried them but those that have all preferred the XF-2's and XF-1's. I'd love to try them out but I'm simply not willing to fork over the entry price...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have GOT to be kidding me._

 

OMG! $1300 for a pair of SR-Sigma Pro's... Thats just insane. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thank god its not on my to-buy list.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I've lost to haarvi before. I wonder if he is interested in an SR-Omega._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

I am interested, if he's not...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those were actually Sigma Pros... but Damn! And I thought I threw a crazy bid on there! (I'm the guy who bid close to $800 US). I figure on something this rare, you gotta step up and throw some money at it. At the end of the day, Ebay auctions really do show the true market value of extremely rare pieces.

 I guess I'll just have to suffer with my SR-Sigmas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For about $600.00 Yamasinc will convert your old low bias Sigma to a Sigma/404 and you can get your old drivers and cable back.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Some of us like the old vintage STAX sound... Why would we spend $600 to downgrade?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veniogenesis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's no joke. It's haarvi. He will pay anything to have what he wants. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Maybe I should have kept my Sigma Pro..._

 

Hmm, I wonder if that haarvi guy needs a spare.


----------



## AudioCats

Too bad the forum was down for so long......meanwhile, I have modded my SRM-001, got some major SQ improvement....

 * you can change the op-amp in the SRM-001. Minor modification will be needed in the +/- 12v power supply (short out two resistors in the power filtering circuit and increase filter caps to about 10 times the original value), then you can use normal opamps to replace the slow TL062L. I have installed sip-8 sockets and made adaptors to test op-amps. Currently using NE5532's which are the only dual opamps I have right now. Ordering some AD826/825/8599 for further testing, might try some opa637's too just because I have some in the parts box 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The lowly 5532 already brought major improvement in SQ. 
 * By using AA size rechargable 3.7V 14500 lithium battries in parallel (4.1V fully charged), there is no SQ difference between battery power and the 4.5V/800mA AC adaptor. Two 14500 lithium will provide 1500mAH, still only good for about 4 hours (the current draw is 400mA regardless of how loud you play)
 * the input caps should be replaced polyprop and blackgates NX caps. ordering. I am using oversized polyprop in the test circuit.
 * The 550v power supply needs some major power cap upgrade. The original is only 0.01uF, by changing to 0.33uF the bass is improved, alot. I don't think the stock amp have good bass at all, if it sounds bassy to you then the phones might not be seated correctly. With the modded amp there is good bass with great clarity. 
 * The high voltage circuit actually use output caps, again 0.01uf, four of them. I am getting polyprop ones from digikey, that should bring further improvement in SQ.


 Have fun


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why would we spend $600 to downgrade? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

go team normal bias!


----------



## cosmopragma

I guess I've just bought a baby Orpheus system.
 Well, still not finalized but the sale is pending.
 I was looking for a pair for years.Yes, years.
 I once had a HE60 on kind of a long term loan and since then I did want a pair but being located in Germany I thought there's a chance of getting a bargain.
 The bargain never happened.
 They are in near mint condition with new pads and headband ,lately inspected and rated perfect at the Sennheiser labs.
 Not cheap though.


----------



## cosmopragma

Oh and smart as I am I've just accidently erased Alex' answer regarding availability of an adapter cable for connecting the HE60 to a Stax amp.
 My provider has rated the apuresound email as spam and after a quick glance I had erased the whole content of the folder realizing too late that a subject containing the word "HE60" is most probably no mail about medication for my penis.


----------



## cosmopragma

Merde !!!
 I've just got another email from Alex.
 The adapter cable isn't available anymore.
 He does offer a complete recabling but that's unattractive.
 Not the recabling itself but the whole shebang of transaction costs and hassles.
 I feel bad .........


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh and smart as I am I've just accidently erased Alex' answer regarding availability of an adapter cable for connecting the HE60 to a Stax amp.
 My provider has rated the apuresound email as spam and after a quick glance I had erased the whole content of the folder realizing too late that a subject containing the word "HE60" is most probably no mail about medication for my penis._

 

It's probably still on your pop mail server. If you have a portable phone or webmail interface you can fetch it again on another device (or use another email app to fetch your mail, it will start from the beginning with getting everything on you mail server).


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Merde !!!
 I've just got another email from Alex.
 The adapter cable isn't available anymore.
 He does offer a complete recabling but that's unattractive.
 Not the recabling itself but the whole shebang of transaction costs and hassles.
 I feel bad ........._

 

Single Power offers an adapter cable but it is not cheap. Last I heard they sold for $150.00 USD.

 Happy Listening!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Merde !!!
 I've just got another email from Alex.
 The adapter cable isn't available anymore.
 He does offer a complete recabling but that's unattractive.
 Not the recabling itself but the whole shebang of transaction costs and hassles.
 I feel bad ........._

 

If you know how to solder and have a heatgun you can DIY it. I did and it's not really that hard even though the wires are tiny. All you need is a Stax plug and a socket with some heatshrink to cover it up. The pin out is in the HE90 service manual.


----------



## milkpowder

Congrats cosmopragma!

 I wonder why Alex has stopped making the adapters. You know that the recable actually includes a Stax to Senn adapter right? (not that you would ever need it
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but to protect the resale value of the headphones)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_go team normal bias!_

 


 I have three Sigmas, low bias, pro and Sigma/404. The low bias has a fine and unique sound, with much more ambience than the pro or Sigma/404, but it lacks the dynamics of the high bias sets. If you use a compander on an audio signal you will hear much the same effects. More dynamics means less ambience. Sometimes I just like the low bias however.

 The Sigma/404 has more detail and more treble than the the other sets which have a somewhat muffled quality, especially the low bias.
 John Buchanan who seems to be the only other headfier to get the Sigma/404recently stated that he preferred it to his Omega 2.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Again, I'm interrupting this heady thread, with its talk of Sigmas, HE90 adapters and penis medication (!), to ask a really simple question (and my earlier one about 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack leads got no replies, so I'm not going to hold my breath on this one):

 Anyone know where I can download (PDF?) a copy of the SRM-001 instruction manual (in English). Mine is in Japanese, and there's a couple of things in it that look like I should understand them!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Again, I'm interrupting this heady thread, with its talk of Sigmas, HE90 adapters and penis medication (!), to ask a really simple question (and my earlier one about 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack leads got no replies, so I'm not going to hold my breath on this one):

 Anyone know where I can download (PDF?) a copy of the SRM-001 instruction manual (in English). Mine is in Japanese, and there's a couple of things in it that look like I should understand them!_

 

Any 3.5mm discussion should be in the portable forum and not here since we are firmly in 5 pin land but anything well made with silver conductors should work. 

 I've never seen the SRM-001 Mk2 instructions manual on the net but you could try and ask the UK distributor or some of our other members that have bought a distributor imported set and not a gray market one.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any 3.5mm discussion should be in the portable forum and not here since we are firmly in 5 pin land but anything well made with silver conductors should work. 

 I've never seen the SRM-001 Mk2 instructions manual on the net but you could try and ask the UK distributor or some of our other members that have bought a distributor imported set and not a gray market one._

 

Thanks, Birgir.

 I have, in fact, just discovered the relevant forum, where ICs are discussed in great detail. I know folks might find this incredible, but I had no idea there was so much else to Head-Fi: I've only ever come straight into this Stax thread (and it's predecessor!), so all the other stuff there (here?) has pretty much passed me by...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Birgir.

 I have, in fact, just discovered the relevant forum, where ICs are discussed in great detail. I know folks might find this incredible, but I had no idea there was so much else to Head-Fi: I've only ever come straight into this Stax thread (and it's predecessor!), so all the other stuff there (here?) has pretty much passed me by..._

 

The rest of head-fi is a blur to me as well so I go to other forums to be rid of the noobs...


----------



## drp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too bad the forum was down for so long......meanwhile, I have modded my SRM-001, got some major SQ improvement....

 * you can change the op-amp in the SRM-001. Minor modification will be needed in the +/- 12v power supply (short out two resistors in the power filtering circuit and increase filter caps to about 10 times the original value), then you can use normal opamps to replace the slow TL062L. I have installed sip-8 sockets and made adaptors to test op-amps. Currently using NE5532's which are the only dual opamps I have right now. Ordering some AD826/825/8599 for further testing, might try some opa637's too just because I have some in the parts box 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The lowly 5532 already brought major improvement in SQ. 
 * By using AA size rechargable 3.7V 14500 lithium battries in parallel (4.1V fully charged), there is no SQ difference between battery power and the 4.5V/800mA AC adaptor. Two 14500 lithium will provide 1500mAH, still only good for about 4 hours (the current draw is 400mA regardless of how loud you play)
 * the input caps should be replaced polyprop and blackgates NX caps. ordering. I am using oversized polyprop in the test circuit.
 * The 550v power supply needs some major power cap upgrade. The original is only 0.01uF, by changing to 0.33uF the bass is improved, alot. I don't think the stock amp have good bass at all, if it sounds bassy to you then the phones might not be seated correctly. With the modded amp there is good bass with great clarity. 
 * The high voltage circuit actually use output caps, again 0.01uf, four of them. I am getting polyprop ones from digikey, that should bring further improvement in SQ.


 Have fun_

 


 Great post! Can you snap a few pictures?

 I type this as glance over at my SRM-252, wondering what sort of trouble I could get into with a few parts and soldering iron.


----------



## Afrikane

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Merde !!!
 I've just got another email from Alex.
 The adapter cable isn't available anymore.
 He does offer a complete recabling but that's unattractive.
 Not the recabling itself but the whole shebang of transaction costs and hassles.
 I feel bad ........._

 

I about to send Alex my pair of HE60s for the re-cable, this would make my Stax adaptor redundant. The adaptor is yours if you want it.


----------



## spritzer

It's been a fun night as I just got my Jecklin PS2's from Doug today and I'm already thinking up ways to drive them properly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The sound is very vintage electrostatic with bass that can knock your teeth out but it is also loose and there is none of the amazing spatial sense you get with the true heavyweights. I like these a lot but there is really only one problem.... they are too small for my head... Now it's certain that my head isn't huge... it's enormous!


----------



## Duggeh

Spritzer, try using a little plasticine to damp the driver in the housing. It might tighten the bass up a little, although obviously your monstrous amp is what's really called for.

 Glad you like them, I find Jecklins snug and comfy on my head, which is quite big, I guess you'll have to shave yours down to the skin to minimise diameter.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, try using a little plasticine to damp the driver in the housing. It might tighten the bass up a little, although obviously your monstrous amp is what's really called for._

 

The housing is surely to be blamed for some of this but I guess the real blame is with the transformers. I don't know if the BH can drive them but a 1:3 transformer on the BH Stax plug should be able to give them more then enough voltage swing. The bass is pretty amazing though and goes to show what a large diaphragm can do with plenty of voltage swing. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad you like them, I find Jecklins snug and comfy on my head, which is quite big, I guess you'll have to shave yours down to the skin to minimise diameter. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm already shaved down so I might have to look into some surgical options...


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Again, I'm interrupting this heady thread, with its talk of Sigmas, HE90 adapters and penis medication (!), to ask a really simple question (and my earlier one about 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack leads got no replies, so I'm not going to hold my breath on this one):

 Anyone know where I can download (PDF?) a copy of the SRM-001 instruction manual (in English). Mine is in Japanese, and there's a couple of things in it that look like I should understand them! 
 

DIY
 I just bought an good interlink,shortened it (10cm) and put a few HQ jacks on it.

 Does anybody know if there is a converter plug/cable so I can use the SRM-001 driver for a fullsize Stax? The portable headphones are a bit unconformable in the long run.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DIY
 I just bought an good interlink,shortened it (10cm) and put a few HQ jacks on it.

 Does anybody know if there is a converter plug/cable so I can use the SRM-001 driver for a fullsize Stax. The portable headphones are a bit unconformable in the long run._

 

There is no adapter so that you can use the SR-001 in a different housing for more comfort. There is an adapter that converts the small HV plug to a normal 5 pin one or you could just get a SR-003 cable from Stax and swap them out.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DIY
 I just bought an good interlink,shortened it (10cm) and put a few HQ jacks on it.

 Does anybody know if there is a converter plug/cable so I can use the SRM-001 driver for a fullsize Stax? The portable headphones are a bit unconformable in the long run._

 

I sold a bad portable cable plug to a guy who repaired it and used it to run regular Stax high bias lambdas off the portable amp. He was quite happy with the results. He also added a larger battery supply.

 I think you will have to make your own adapter or try Alex.

Stax Mods, Stax Headphones, Stax


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I about to send Alex my pair of HE60s for the re-cable, this would make my Stax adaptor redundant. The adaptor is yours if you want it._

 

Hurrah!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













:al lteeth:

 You saved my day.

 Please send me a PM about the details.

*Long live Afrikane*


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you know how to solder and have a heatgun you can DIY it. I did and it's not really that hard even though the wires are tiny._

 

I'm more the WIY (wreck-it-yourself) type of guy.
 I just had a weird vision of failed attempt after failed attempt losing a few cm every time and ending with a cable 62 cm long terminated by an oddly angled plug .........


----------



## Asr

Forgive me for being an electrostat newb but I have to ask: does the SR-007 OII pair well with the KGSS? Anyone own the MKI or MKII with the KGSS? What kind of sound results with the OII and the KGSS?

 Should have checked out a certain rig at the August SJ meet but I wrote it off too fast.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm more the WIY (wreck-it-yourself) type of guy.
 I just had a weird vision of failed attempt after failed attempt losing a few cm every time and ending with a cable 62 cm long terminated by an oddly angled plug ........._

 

Ahhh so your that guy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is very easy to do, just remove about 3-4cm of the black insulation to reveal the color coded wires. Strip about 1.5cm off those and remove the fibers inside the wire, tin them and you are done. Fit the wires through the barrel of each pin on the Stax plug and heat up the barrels with some solder in the top opening to let you know when it is melted. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ASR* 
_Forgive me for being an electrostat newb but I have to ask: does the SR-007 OII pair well with the KGSS? Anyone own the MKI or MKII with the KGSS? What kind of sound results with the OII and the KGSS?

 Should have checked out a certain rig at the August SJ meet._

 

It's quite good, the tube amps are better, but at 1500$ it's hard to beat the KGSS. It's certainly a rig that would let you forget about all those pesky dynamics


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forgive me for being an electrostat newb but I have to ask: does the SR-007 OII pair well with the KGSS? Anyone own the MKI or MKII with the KGSS? What kind of sound results with the OII and the KGSS?

 Should have checked out a certain rig at the August SJ meet but I wrote it off too fast. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Search this thread. Recently I did a comparison with my KGSS, SRM-007t and SRM-717 using my O2. IMO it was not the winner. I did sell my KGSS.

 AudioD


----------



## Asr

Well if I'm planning to use a KGSS, which other Stax headphone would you advise? I'm not a tube guy.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well if I'm planning to use a KGSS, which other Stax headphone would you advise? I'm not a tube guy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't get me wrong, the KGSS is fantastic on the O2. If you have a KGSS or are getting one the O2 is the best phone for it. Don't buy a phone for an amp, buy a amp for a phone. I think that the O2 is the best phone there is IMO. The KGSS is a high output amp that was designed with the O2 in mind.

 AudioD


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't get me wrong, the KGSS is fantastic on the O2. If you have a KGSS or are getting one the O2 is the best phone for it. Don't buy a phone for an amp, buy a amp for a phone. I think that the O2 is the best phone there is IMO. The KGSS is a high output amp that was designed with the O2 in mind.

 AudioD_

 

Couldn't have said it better. The O2's deserve all the best you can get them and while the KGSS is far from perfect it is a step in the right direction. 

 On the Jecklin front I've nailed down why they sound like they do and what to do about it. Like oh so many electrostatic headphones from that era the drivers aren't properly coupled to frame. The frame is nothing to shout about but a proper mounting system would maximize its potential. It's still the fit that bothers me the most and that has sent my noggin into overdrive to think up ways to fully utilize the excelent PS2 drivers. It would be best to encase the drivers in a wooden shell, mounted to a headband similar to the Lambda units and with square shaped leather earpads similar to the PMB1000 design. I could 

 I've also thought about a K1000 design with the drivers on a 45° swivel axis but the sacrifice would be far to great as the drivers are huge and a single point mount would have to be very strong and it would still wobble a bit. I'm going to try and find a cheap ugly looking PS2 to do some prototyping...


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Does anybody know if there is a converter plug/cable so I can use the SRM-001 driver for a fullsize Stax? The portable headphones are a bit unconformable in the long run.
 I sold a bad portable cable plug to a guy who repaired it and used it to run regular Stax high bias lambdas off the portable amp. He was quite happy with the results. He also added a larger battery supply.

 I think you will have to make your own adapter or try Alex. 
 

I will try to make one. the plug itself will be the most difficult (maybe a ISA slot of an old pc motherboard).
 Anybody knows the the layout of the large Stax plug and the layout of the srm-001 plug?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Couldn't have said it better. The O2's deserve all the best you can get them and while the KGSS is far from perfect it is a step in the right direction. 

 On the Jecklin front I've nailed down why they sound like they do and what to do about it. Like oh so many electrostatic headphones from that era the drivers aren't properly coupled to frame. The frame is nothing to shout about but a proper mounting system would maximize its potential. It's still the fit that bothers me the most and that has sent my noggin into overdrive to think up ways to fully utilize the excelent PS2 drivers. It would be best to encase the drivers in a wooden shell, mounted to a headband similar to the Lambda units and with square shaped leather earpads similar to the PMB1000 design. I could 

 I've also thought about a K1000 design with the drivers on a 45° swivel axis but the sacrifice would be far to great as the drivers are huge and a single point mount would have to be very strong and it would still wobble a bit. I'm going to try and find a cheap ugly looking PS2 to do some prototyping..._

 


 I wanted to try Sigma/K1000 the drivers, or a re-housing. But really there was no way I was ever going to do it while still at uni. I look forward to the fruits of your efforts.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will try to make one. the plug itself will be the most difficult (maybe a ISA slot of an old pc motherboard).
 Anybody knows the the layout of the large Stax plug and the layout of the srm-001 plug?_

 

I have a picture of the Stax socket but with the photo.head-fi.or service still down I'd have to find it again. Some old PC socket should work great for the SR-001 adapter.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wanted to try Sigma/K1000 the drivers, or a re-housing. But really there was no way I was ever going to do it while still at uni. I look forward to the fruits of your efforts._

 

The only problem is that I don't want to mess with this particular set unless it's something that preserves their external appearance. Its here where the crazy collector nonsense comes into play.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What I have to do is to test how far away from the ears I can take them and if the drivers will like a sealed baffle. I would really like to use a Lambda arc assembly since i have a few kicking around but I don't know if it can handle the weight...


----------



## Duggeh

I doubt it, given the larger sizes involved. If you could get ahold of a 4070 headband though that'd certainly be made of tougher stuff. What's really needed is for those panels to be clamped on each side, you could use wood to screw a frame together around them and then to whatever headband mechanism you devise. The difficulty of trying to seal them to the head like a Stax phone is just the sheer size. 16 square inches. You'd need some monstrous pads and they wouldn't work for all head sizes and shapes.

 I'd like to have a better housing for the AMT drivers as well. The Ergo headphones have awful housings. And not just from an aesthetic point of view. I replaced the headband on the AMT the other day. If its going to be that stupidly difficult they simply shouldn't sell the headbands separately at all. The AMT drivers in the headphone are 1 or 2 millimetres too large to be fitted into a Lambda housing. Although that'd hardly be an improvement anyway.


----------



## spritzer

The 4070 band would be ideal but I'd have to scrap the forks and make up some new ones. I'll ask Koji next time I buy something from him to check and see what Stax wants for one of those. The only problem really is that they don't swivel like the Lambda/Sigma arcs so the fit could be a problem. 

 The pads are tricky to pull off but there is a is small leather company here in Reykjavik that could make them for me. The PMB designs looks to be ideal with mostly thin pads but a large piece that goes behind the ears. 

 The housing would be in two or three parts all screwed together and with the pads hiding the screws. The cable would be routed HE90 style for a dual entry setup. 

 The AMT could certainly be put into a new housing as well and would benefit greatly from it. The technology behind them is sound so a botter housing could make them a real player in the high end realm.


----------



## milkpowder

I spy mk2s in Afrikane's sig. Is it here yet?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spy mk2s in Afrikane's sig. Is it here yet?_

 

I know there was some talk off a SR-007A while back...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 band would be ideal but I'd have to scrap the forks and make up some new ones. I'll ask Koji next time I buy something from him to check and see what Stax wants for one of those. The only problem really is that they don't swivel like the Lambda/Sigma arcs so the fit could be a problem._

 

I suspect they might want a surprisingly pretty penny. What are the differences in the driver housing attachment from the Lambda plastic headband anyway. Could you stick a 4070 headband on a Lambda? It looks to me to be the exact same mechanism as the O2 headband and that self-adjusting system is just wonderful.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads are tricky to pull off but there is a is small leather company here in Reykjavik that could make them for me. The PMB designs looks to be ideal with mostly thin pads but a large piece that goes behind the ears._

 

That would be what you want, except that the changes in thickness you need would be much bigger than even the PMB pads because the side of the head rolls away more and more at the back and the Jecklin panel is large enough to need that size.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The housing would be in two or three parts all screwed together and with the pads hiding the screws. The cable would be routed HE90 style for a dual entry setup._

 

Dual entry is so much better than one sided. As I have discovered with the AMT. Although I was stupid enough to have to make two holes in the right driver housing because I accidently held the plastic back to front at first. Itll make for an easy re-rewire to have the cables exit at the front like the K1000 if I want though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AMT could certainly be put into a new housing as well and would benefit greatly from it. The technology behind them is sound so a botter housing could make them a real player in the high end realm._

 

They are basically glued with sticky pad to the inside grille and theres a little rubbery plastic on the forward side (the drivers are not centrally mounted, but toward the rear slightly). Theres this same rubbery stuff on the back of the driver (although im not sure if it'd make any difference turning them around) against which the outside of the housing presses a little. The headband arc is clamped in between these two halfs and you have to leave a little slack in the top two screws if you want to be able to adjust the headband. The four screws themselves are small, easily burred and the plastic threads into which they screw are also easily de-threaded. All in all, its a design which manages to do precious little right except maintain its aesthetic link to the Float chassis.

 I've toyed with selling them several times since I got them, but the new pads and headband have brought some life back into them that I didnt know I had been missing, and the Aleph is the only amp I've tried so far that has them performing like they perhaps should. Theres a little hum in the right channel thats annoying, though I'm not sure whats causing it.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well if I'm planning to use a KGSS, which other Stax headphone would you advise? I'm not a tube guy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have both SRM-717 and KGSS with a number of headphones. After extnensive comparison I must say that in my opinion KGSS is a clear step up. SRM-717 sounds more laid back and diffused and I see how some people can prefer that. At the same time my KGSS has Black Gate WKZ power supply caps, so it is different from the one audiod had.

 In terms of headphones, I like SR-007 the most followed by Lambda Signature and HE60


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suspect they might want a surprisingly pretty penny. What are the differences in the driver housing attachment from the Lambda plastic headband anyway. Could you stick a 4070 headband on a Lambda? It looks to me to be the exact same mechanism as the O2 headband and that self-adjusting system is just wonderful.
_

 

I recently got a SR-007 headband from EIFL for $100.


----------



## Duggeh

You mean just the elasticated portion or the metal bands too? AFAIK the metal bands are a contiguous part of the housing of the earcups. I didnt think they were user replaceable.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean just the elasticated portion or the metal bands too? AFAIK the metal bands are a contiguous part of the housing of the earcups. I didnt think they were user replaceable._

 

Metal bands and the elastic pad - if you remove the 2 screws per side the bands will come off. The driver housing is a separate part.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the Jecklin front I've nailed down why they sound like they do and what to do about it. Like oh so many electrostatic headphones from that era the drivers aren't properly coupled to frame. The frame is nothing to shout about but a proper mounting system would maximize its potential. It's still the fit that bothers me the most and that has sent my noggin into overdrive to think up ways to fully utilize the excelent PS2 drivers. It would be best to encase the drivers in a wooden shell, mounted to a headband similar to the Lambda units and with square shaped leather earpads similar to the PMB1000 design. ._

 

I liked my old Jecklins, I had two, one silver and one black. No obvious sound difference between them. I got rid of them cheap because of reliability issues, especially connectors coming off the stators.


----------



## krmathis

Its now possible to pre-order the SR-007A from PriceJapan, at a price of $1758.
  Quote:


 Its release date is the end of December, 2007.



 You can pre-order it, now, with full payment.

 Even after its release, it will need ONE MONTH to be shipped. 
 

PriceJapan.com








 I am _so_ ready, but a bit worried since there are known issues with at least one SR-007mk2.
 Hmmm...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suspect they might want a surprisingly pretty penny. What are the differences in the driver housing attachment from the Lambda plastic headband anyway. Could you stick a 4070 headband on a Lambda? It looks to me to be the exact same mechanism as the O2 headband and that self-adjusting system is just wonderful._

 

The 4070 is screwed into the forks from inside the earcup since the cast aluminum isn't known to be easy to bend back and then fall into its original form like the plastic Lambda forks. The 4070 is very, very comfy for it's 640gr weight so this would be a good solution. Since I don't need or can even use the 4070 forks it could just as well buy a SR-007 arc and build my own fork units. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be what you want, except that the changes in thickness you need would be much bigger than even the PMB pads because the side of the head rolls away more and more at the back and the Jecklin panel is large enough to need that size._

 

One option here is to locate the pads further forward on the head and use the flatter portion in front of the ear. This would provide more ambiance as some of the sound waves are bounced off the skin. Otherwise it would be a lot of foam either molded or cut into the right shape. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dual entry is so much better than one sided. As I have discovered with the AMT. Although I was stupid enough to have to make two holes in the right driver housing because I accidently held the plastic back to front at first. Itll make for an easy re-rewire to have the cables exit at the front like the K1000 if I want though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've never understood single entry like I've never understood coiled cords. Both are a silly way to do things with no benefits. I would have the cables exit at the bottom and loop the wire to the top like on the He90. It makes for a good connection and there is no way the drivers get hurt if the cable is pulled violently. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are basically glued with sticky pad to the inside grille and theres a little rubbery plastic on the forward side (the drivers are not centrally mounted, but toward the rear slightly). Theres this same rubbery stuff on the back of the driver (although im not sure if it'd make any difference turning them around) against which the outside of the housing presses a little. The headband arc is clamped in between these two halfs and you have to leave a little slack in the top two screws if you want to be able to adjust the headband. The four screws themselves are small, easily burred and the plastic threads into which they screw are also easily de-threaded. All in all, its a design which manages to do precious little right except maintain its aesthetic link to the Float chassis._

 

Sounds really nasty... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've toyed with selling them several times since I got them, but the new pads and headband have brought some life back into them that I didnt know I had been missing, and the Aleph is the only amp I've tried so far that has them performing like they perhaps should. Theres a little hum in the right channel thats annoying, though I'm not sure whats causing it._

 

The hum could be a bad cap somewhere that is passing DC or just leaking. The PSU caps could also have gone bad or malfunctioned. 

 My Audio Analogue Puccini is doing a damn good job driving the Jecklins as it sounds very sweet at this low a power level. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* 
_I liked my old Jecklins, I had two, one silver and one black. No obvious sound difference between them. I got rid of them cheap because of reliability issues, especially connectors coming off the stators._

 

The silver ones are the PS0 and black with silver markings are PS1 while black with red markings are PS2. There is a lot of difference between them as the bias supply varies quite a bit and so does the driver design and adapter quality. They also changed the housing but there are obvious flaws when it comes to humidity as the stator connection are made out of a thin strip of copper like Stax used and that can corrode and break. Not a good design choice on a 3. generation.


----------



## ferraro25

The SRS-2050II seems to benefit from X-Fi's Crystallizer (set at minimum). More lively. Listening fatigue increased, however, mostly due to the extra "snap."

 Yes, the Crystallizer ruins the sound, blah blah blah.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRS-2050II seems to benefit from X-Fi's Crystallizer (set at minimum). More lively. Listening fatigue increased, however, mostly due to the extra "snap."

 Yes, the Crystallizer ruins the sound, blah blah blah._

 

What is this thing? Do you have a good link?


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 The SRS-2050II seems to benefit from X-Fi's Crystallizer (set at minimum). More lively. Listening fatigue increased, however, mostly due to the extra "snap. 
 

Thats funny,
 Yesterday I was experimenting with the same thing but was not convinced
 I will give it another try at minimum settings..

  Quote:


 What is this thing? Do you have a good link? 
 

Creative soundblaster X-fi music (or better)


----------



## spritzer

I think it's time for some Stax talk. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just received one of the last pieces to my Stax collection a Gamma Pro Neu as they were called in Germany. That is a Gamma Pro with the Alpha Pro Excellent earpads. It's condition was pretty ratty but the drivers are sound and they do sound pretty good. It's no Lambda by any means but they have some promise and are mostly fun to listen to. There is still present the slight "clenched" nature of the SR-Gamma which is likely a function of the housing but I'll see what happens once I mount the drivers in a SR-X Mk3 housing. Should be interesting.


----------



## Faust2D

How does the Gamma Pro compare to Lambda? I was think of getting a pair but review are not so hot, so now I am thinking it's a "collectors only", I am right?


----------



## Tachikoma

It has been a long while since I had the SR-303 on loan, but I think the GP will sound alright when compared against them. They have a presentation which is somewhere in between the SR-5 and the SR-303. Both the SR-5 and SR-303 have more bass (the SR-303 had the best bass impact iirc), but the GP is easily the most efficient, and it doesn't have a midbass hump unlike the other two.

  Quote:


 I just received one of the last pieces to my Stax collection a Gamma Pro Neu as they were called in Germany. That is a Gamma Pro with the Alpha Pro Excellent earpads. It's condition was pretty ratty but the drivers are sound and they do sound pretty good. It's no Lambda by any means but they have some promise and are mostly fun to listen to. There is still present the slight "clenched" nature of the SR-Gamma which is likely a function of the housing but I'll see what happens once I mount the drivers in a SR-X Mk3 housing. Should be interesting. 
 

Heh, I bought another GP just for mounting its drivers in my dead SR-5NB. (dead as in having a channel which was "leaking" bias) The resulting SR-5NB "pro" was eargasmic to listen to


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the Gamma Pro compare to Lambda? I was think of getting a pair but review are not so hot, so now I am thinking it's a "collectors only", I am right?_

 

The Gamma's are a bit of a toy when compared to the Lambdas. They are fun headphones but all transients are squashed, the soundstage is compressed, they are bass shy, some lack of treble information and the midrange is a pretty far cry from the large Lambda drivers. Then there are the other issues such as parts availability as there are no parts for them not even earpads. 

 I do expect better things from the SR-X Mk3 Pro but they also have their own issues. Buy a Gamma Pro if you are a collector but paying more for one of these then a Lambda is insane.


----------



## spritzer

As it often happens with me I was a bit bored with 30 minutes to spare and a SR-X Mk3 and a Gamma Pro so now I have a SR-X Mk3 Pro on my head... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The conversion is not for the faint of heart but even with old flat earpads they sound pretty good. I used the old SR-X Mk3 cable so there is some sibilance but the sound is much better controlled compared to the Gamma Pro. More impressions later but I need to redo it with some better glue as I didn't have any double sided that that was this thin. 

 What I find really amusing about the Pro drivers is that they are really Normal drivers that Stax has modified with thicker spacers, pretty much the same as I did with one of my SR-X Mk3 drivers. They were of course not modifying old drivers but it's so cool they did it this way.


----------



## evil-zen

The last time I had the 303, i preferred my Gamma Pro and SR-X to them though. Soundstage is might be compressed, they might be bass shy but I prefer the midrange and treble of Gamma Pro vs 303. And better yet, they are far far ahead of most dynamic headphones.


----------



## spritzer

New earpads on the SR-X Pro and things are starting to look up. Bass is better controlled and the soundstage is better. 

 Edit: Saying that the SR-X doesn't have bass is pretty far from true especially since they met their new friend, the Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Massive amounts of power works wonders here as well as with other stats opening up the treble, bass and the soundstage. While these phones will never be worth the price they commend on the used market they are quite good and a nice upgrade for those that love the SR-X Mk3

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The last time I had the 303, i preferred my Gamma Pro and SR-X to them though. Soundstage is might be compressed, they might be bass shy but I prefer the midrange and treble of Gamma Pro vs 303. And better yet, they are far far ahead of most dynamic headphones._

 

They are good but the SR-X is nasal and has a boxed in midrange (you can hear the boundaries) while the Gammas are very let down by their housing so all transients are faster then they should be. I would rank them at about equal with the new Lambdas as they have their own structure related problems but they are crushed by the SR-Lambda and Lambda Signature.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I find really amusing about the Pro drivers is that they are really Normal drivers that Stax has modified with thicker spacers, pretty much the same as I did with one of my SR-X Mk3 drivers. They were of course not modifying old drivers but it's so cool they did it this way. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmm, when I accidentally put the wrong spacer (the silver ring?) inside the GP driver, the membrane wobbled inside the driver, so they can't be the same. (The drivers were working fine despite the wobbling <___<)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, when I accidentally put the wrong spacer (the silver ring?) inside the GP driver, the membrane wobbled inside the driver, so they can't be the same. (The drivers were working fine despite the wobbling <___<)_

 

The membrane mounting rings could also be different but the the rest of the drivers is identical. They even stand out a bit which makes perfect sense since the internal structure is 0.6mm thicker.


----------



## stax8

Please Help!!
 the cable of my stax lamda pro has given its soul and i have to replace it 
 can you tell me please where i can find one or where i can find the Special 5-pin plug
 Thanks


----------



## Tachikoma

The stax extension cords will make a fine replacement for any broken stax cable. audiocubes2.com or pricejapan.com should have them.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hi everyone,
 Can you tell me which of the current Stax Amps works best with the folowing stax headphones? The Stax 4070s and the Stax Omega twos? 
 Also how does the new Stax SRM007t Tubed amp compare to the old Stax SRM007t tubed amp?
 Thanks for your time. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *stax8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please Help!!
 the cable of my stax lamda pro has given its soul and i have to replace it 
 can you tell me please where i can find one or where i can find the Special 5-pin plug
 Thanks_

 

You can try to ask Audiocubes or EIFL if they can supply a new one as the SR-202 cable is essentially the same cable. The local distributors should also have them in stock. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi everyone,
 Can you tell me which of the current Stax Amps works best with the folowing stax headphones? The Stax 4070s and the Stax Omega twos? 
 Also how does the new Stax SRM007t Tubed amp compare to the old Stax SRM007t tubed amp?
 Thanks for your time. Scottsmrnyc_

 

I think an older 717 would suit your needs the best. Many users prefer it to the newer model. The verdict is still out on the 007t vs. 007tA/II as the owners are divided on which sounds better. Since you are in NYC you should check out the Woo Audio GES. It costs about the same but is still a largely untested amp.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think an older 717 would suit your needs the best. Many users prefer it to the newer model. The verdict is still out on the 007t vs. 007tA/II as the owners are divided on which sounds better. Since you are in NYC you should check out the Woo Audio GES. It costs about the same but is still a largely untested amp._

 

I read somewhere that the 007T and 007Ta/II were the same amp. Just different front panels because the source of switches for the 007T dried up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I read somewhere that the 007T and 007Ta/II were the same amp. Just different front panels because the source of switches for the 007T dried up._

 

There is a bit more to it then that. The input switch story might be true but the main reason behind the new models was that the old ones weren't ROHS compliant. Stax also put in a new DC filament supply and made some tweaks here and there but mainly just cut cost even more.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I read somewhere that the 007T and 007Ta/II were the same amp. Just different front panels because the source of switches for the 007T dried up._

 

Heh. I actually read that on an eBay auction.


----------



## Duggeh

eBay, almost as good an academic source as wikipedia.


----------



## spritzer

Ebay is actually quite good as a resource for vintage items but that is just nonsense...


----------



## Duggeh

Items listed by sellers on eBay as "vintage"

 In good cosmetic condition.
 Still fully functional.
 Reasonably priced.

 Pick two.


----------



## Faust2D

c) Non of the above


----------



## spritzer

I meant it mostly as a resource of information about vintage items. I've bought too many broken headphones over the years to believe a word any seller says...


----------



## 2deadeyes

Another question: Any difference between the Omega 2 MKII offered on Elusive Disc vs. AudioCubes, besides the regional warranty?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another question: Any difference between the Omega 2 MKII offered on Elusive Disc vs. AudioCubes, besides the regional warranty?_

 

Color of the housing and they are way too expensive. Check out EIFL for a lower price.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Sweet, thanks for the link. I notice that Elusive Disc has the MKII with serial SR-007*B* vs. SR-007*A* on the Japan importing sites. Is the lettering difference simply for the color (black as opposed to silver)?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet, thanks for the link. I notice that Elusive Disc has the MKII with serial SR-007*B* vs. SR-007*A* on the Japan importing sites. Is the lettering difference simply for the color (black as opposed to silver)?_

 

The Mk1 SR-007 was available in black and it was called SR-007BL. The A version refers simply to the Japanese model of the Mk2 the same as is with the amps. The new SRM-007t is called II for the export models but A in Japan.


----------



## pdennis

Hey Stax gurus,

 The hunt for my first set of Stax + energizer is not going well so far. I haven't seen anything reasonable in my price range (~500) on Ebay in the past month, and stuff gets snapped up off of here and Audiogon before I even see it.

 Couple of quick questions: Is there any truth to the assertion that a 2050a system, designed for 100v, will work with a voltage converter but with a decrease in sound quality?

 Also, I've seen some SR-X III + SRD-x systems for sale on occasion, and I thought I remember that they tend to run a little less than systems with a complete amp. I didn't consider such a setup before because my power amp puts out 200 wpc at 8 ohms... but I wonder, could such an amp be used with a Stax adaptor and phones, with care?

 Lastly, I might put up a WTB here, but I'm not sure what would be a reasonable price range for, say, an SR-X III with SRD-7 adaptor. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Be paitient, they will come. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 You can go one better with the 2050a and fit it with a better power supply then the standard wall wart. A 12v 3A bench top PSU would be great and you can buy it cheaply or you can just find your own 12v wall wart and use that. Just be sure to watch the polarity as Stax has it reversed from what is usually the norm. 

 You can use any amp with the SRD-7 or any of the other adapters, be 3 or 300w strong. As long as you don't feed it too much then the phones should be fine but one wrong flick of a switch and the phones, adapter and amp are toast or at least one of them. What the phones need is the voltage of the speaker and not the huge amounts of current they can put out and while the adapter is protected from the current the older phones aren't protected from too much voltage so they will arc and burn. Be careful and you'll be fine. 

 An SR-X in good condition could fetch 200$ and upwards. It's tough to predict though.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great post! Can you snap a few pictures?

 I type this as glance over at my SRM-252, wondering what sort of trouble I could get into with a few parts and soldering iron._

 

I might do a tutorial post in DIY once I installed all the upgrade parts and confirm the % of improvement. I will guess up to about 30%, but it depends on the quality of input cap alot, and I have no idea how good the Blackgate NX-HQ's electrolytics are. Still waiting for the opamps from digikey, and I haven't even order the blackGates yet. So it will be a while.

 252 has a similar but larger power supply circuit (the power jack input of the SR-001 amp should not exceed 5V or the power supply circuit will freak out). There are a LOT of room inside, you can probably upgrade capacitors like crazy, use large polyprop input and high voltage reservoir caps, this ought to improve the sound a lot.

 judged from the photos the 252's input stage doesn't use any op-amp so no op-amp upgrade there. It seems to use +/- high voltage supply there is probably no output capacitors. So input and high voltage power supply caps upgrades are the most obvious mods to do.

 here is the backside of my SR-001 test setup. Some 1uF ceramic by-passing caps were installed so I can now use high speed op-amps. the signal input cable is a makeshift mini-rca adaptor, 24awg silver/teflon wires are used.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Have fun


----------



## facelvega

Hey Spritzer, what are we expecting concerning the new HEaudio stat? I remember you speculated that the cable was going to be one of those old kettle cords, but that's all I've heard, and the search function still seems to be screwy. In the one pic I could find they look alright:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Spritzer, what are we expecting concerning the new HEaudio stat? I remember you speculated that the cable was going to be one of those old kettle cords, but that's all I've heard, and the search function still seems to be screwy. In the one pic I could find they look alright:_

 

From what I've heard in private conversations from those that have heard them they are nothing special really, way to euphonic for their own good and that suggest some design flaws. I'm probably going to buy one and see what can be done with it and that will include replacing that horrible cable, damping parts of the headphone as well as general tweaking. They have to beat the SR-SC1 in stock configuration or they are simply not worth it. Lets wait and see how the 1.3 will turn out.


----------



## Tachikoma

Hmm head-direct.com offers a "30 days refund" and free shipping. I'd get them if I had $1000 to spare 

 EH 1.3: Head-Direct.com


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm head-direct.com offers a "30 days refund" and free shipping. I'd get them if I had $1000 to spare 

 EH 1.3: Head-Direct.com_

 

That's why I'm going to buy them. No risk (or very little.. damn taxes) and they do look nice. I just hope the headband has enough range of movement to fit my enormous noggin.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the power jack input of the SR-001 amp should not exceed 5V or the power supply circuit will freak out_

 

Are you using an original Stax power supply for the SR-001? If so, could you measure its voltage for me, both under load and without? I've bought a "4.5V" Sony AC-E455, as recommended by several peeps, but it puts out a little over 5V under load, and well over 7V without, so I'm afraid to damage the SR-001 with extended use.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_here is the backside of my SR-001 test setup. Some 1uF ceramic by-passing caps were installed so I can now use high speed op-amps. the signal input cable is a makeshift mini-rca adaptor, 24awg silver/teflon wires are used.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So much for a *portable* amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ellen


----------



## makito

A little off-topic, but still completely to do with Stax: Has anyone tried to update the incomplete information on the Wiki:Stax page? I just tried to add some missing information and the source and got labeled a vandal. (See Talk Page)

 I dont know if anyone else wants to give it a try - I know it saved me a lot of asking questions on what amp has what and how old it is questions. (I lurk a lot, I only recently started posting)
 -makito


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 here is the backside of my SR-001 test setup. Some 1uF ceramic by-passing caps were installed so I can now use high speed op-amps. the signal input cable is a makeshift mini-rca adaptor, 24awg silver/teflon wires are used.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



_

 

So you took a portable amp and made it into this? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good job.


----------



## spritzer

This is a load of bull. A lot of the information is from the Unofficial site but I have all the same material here and a lot more the founder of that site has never seen. Other parts of the information are from Stax them selfs and others doing some digging. Still I don't care as Wikipedia isn't worth a second of my time.


----------



## makito

It's a shame that Stax doesn't have a nicer complete historical site for all their older equipment. The inside pictures nearly every amp and earspeakers were really interesting for me, since I'm curious but a little worried about dismantling multi-thousand dollar equipment just for a peek. (hehe)

 On another note, does anyone have a freqency response graph for the Lambda Nova Classic's? I was hoping to get a comparison with the current SR-303/404s to see if it's worth the upgrade.

 -Makito

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a load of bull. A lot of the information is from the Unofficial site but I have all the same material here and a lot more the founder of that site has never seen. Other parts of the information are from Stax them selfs and others doing some digging. Still I don't care as Wikipedia isn't worth a second of my time._


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *makito* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A little off-topic, but still completely to do with Stax: Has anyone tried to update the incomplete information on the Wiki:Stax page? I just tried to add some missing information and the source and got labeled a vandal. (See Talk Page)

 I dont know if anyone else wants to give it a try - I know it saved me a lot of asking questions on what amp has what and how old it is questions. (I lurk a lot, I only recently started posting)
 -makito_

 

I have added lots of information to the Stax Earspeakers wiki. Probably around 50% of everything written in there. The Un-Official Stax webpage is obviously not liked, and he (GoodDaemon) probably have his reason for it...


 I really hate it when people alter the Wiki without knowing their facts. Example; the S-001 MK2 headspeakers have been wrongly renamed to SR-001 MK2, and back, at least twice. Why don't they leave it alone if they don't have the slightest clue about its name?!


----------



## makito

I totally agree, if you're not 100% sure don't add random things, but what I don't understand is why adding the UnOfficial page was so wrong.

 Btw, thanks! I've found that page really useful for a quick reference. The Japanese version just has 2 links and "yes they make speakers" lol...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have added lots of information to the Stax Earspeakers wiki. Probably around 50% of everything written in there. The Un-Official Stax webpage is obviously not liked, and he probably have his reason for it...

 I really hate it when people alter the Wiki without knowing their facts. Example; the S-001 MK2 headspeakers have been wrongly renamed to SR-001 MK2, and back, at least twice. Why don't they leave it alone if they don't have the slightest clue about its name?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you took a portable amp and made it into this? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good job._

 

hehe, that was just for testing, I want to see how it can sound when there is no size limit. 
 In the final version, the yellow polyprop high voltage cap (0.47uF) will be replaced by 4x 0.1uf X2 caps, they fit into the case; the blue polyprop / tantalum input caps will be replaced by blackgate NX-HQ and small polyprop, will also fit into the case. Those two three-pin blue electrolytics were just for fun testing, with them the bass was improved slightly but not very noticable, so I know I won't need bigger power caps in the +/- opamp power supply (I have two 220uf/16v installed on the board, that will be enough).

 The opamp rolling will start tonight, if UPS brings the package on time....


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you using an original Stax power supply for the SR-001? If so, could you measure its voltage for me, both under load and without? I've bought a "4.5V" Sony AC-E455, as recommended by several peeps, but it puts out a little over 5V under load, and well over 7V without, so I'm afraid to damage the SR-001 with extended use.

 So much for a *portable* amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Ellen_

 

The final version will have everything inside the SRM-001 case, don't worry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My panasonic 4.5v/800mA wallwart measures 6V unloaded, but when the amp is turned on, the 400mA constant current draw (no matter how loud you play, it is always that much as long as the amp is on) brings it down to 4.7V. I think your Sony is ok, if not, you will hear it. The absolute max you can go is 6v, as the hex inverter 74HC14 is a low voltage chip, the operating voltage is 2-6V. 

 The reason I said 5V is the max is I also have a 5V/1A linear regulated supply (originally for an external zip drive, I changed the plug). The output is 5.1V. When it is plugged in the amp, the sound will get louder and pretty good for about 3 seconds, then the volume gets lower and sound crappy. I am presumming the supply is not the problem thought (could be the zip wallwart's linear regulator senses the noise coming from amp's inverter and freaks out and mess up the output voltage, I don't know). 

 Anyway, the 4.5V/800mA Panasonic wallwart sounds the same as 4.1V lithium batteries, so I don't think the power supply current reserve capability is super critical here, as long as it can provide more than 400mA.....

 Just got my digi-key package, the opamps are now rolling......


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Guys... I've been thinking. Ever since I heard the Lambdas at the Atlanta meet, I've been yearning to hear that electrostatic sound again. The ultra-fast transient response was really impressive... I recently got a new job that has drastically increased my income. I thought about buying my own pair of Lambdas, but then after calculating my income after all of my possible expenses, I found it would only take me two months max to save up for a pair of SR-007Mk2s. So I'm going to do just that. Why go in steps, when I can just take the elevator straight to the top?

 I have several questions though:

 One problem is that the amplifiers seem to be equally as expensive. So here is my question: Which amplifer can I get that will sound good for the time being, but won't take another two or three months to save up for?

 Is it worth getting the newer 007s over the older ones? Is there a drastic difference in sound quality or other properties?

 Also, I'm not joking around, just so you know. I am deadly serious about buying some high-end STAX products. But I am new to STAX-Fi, so I just need some advice to set me on the right path.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Man, I keep going back and forth about whether I like my SR-Lambda with SRD-X or my HD600 with APureSound V3 cable and Darkvoice 336i amp.

 Three days ago, STAX was #1, then it was HD600, and tonight it is STAX again. What's up with that?


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Anyway, the 4.5V/800mA Panasonic wallwart sounds the same as 4.1V lithium batteries, so I don't think the power supply current reserve capability is super critical here, as long as it can provide more than 400mA..... 
 

Question: will the sound of the SRM-001 improve If one puts one (3,7v) Li-ion AA in the battery compartment (instead of the 2x 1,5v) or do you NEED to connect it via the power plug.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I keep going back and forth about whether I like my SR-Lambda with SRD-X or my HD600 with APureSound V3 cable and Darkvoice 336i amp.

 Three days ago, STAX was #1, then it was HD600, and tonight it is STAX again. What's up with that?_

 

I assume you are talking about a low bias lambda. My SRDX uses a headphone jack input instead of line input and only runs low bias. As such it is not the best of these old portable amps and ceratinly not as good as the full-size amps. And low bias sets while interesting are pretty old technology.


----------



## pdennis

Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose a 13.8v supply is a bad idea? 12v 3a is proving hard to come by.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question: will the sound of the SRM-001 improve If one puts one (3,7v) Li-ion AA in the battery compartment (instead of the 2x 1,5v) or do you NEED to connect it via the power plug._

 

the 3.7V is the standard lithium battery voltage (same as what I am using). Fully charged it will be 4.1~4.15V, the voltage will drop down to about 3.4V when it is almost depleted. the 3.7V spec is actually the average voltage. 

 One single lithium ion AA 14500 rechargable cell is about 750~900mAH rating, it will last 2 hours to most, actually once the voltage drops down too much the baby stax amp's sound will get duller, so the "good sound" battery life with a single AA lithium will probably only be an hour or so. That was why I suggest using two 14500 in parallel, they can use the existing battery compartment and you can get 3 hours of good sound per charge. 3 hours on the go is pretty good. 

 The batteries shown in the picture are 14650 cell phone cells, I am using them for testing purpose, they are 15mm too long to fit into the battery compartment. I guess I will be buying some 14500 AA pretty soon.

 Have fun


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assume you are talking about a low bias lambda. My SRDX uses a headphone jack input instead of line input and only runs low bias. As such it is not the best of these old portable amps and ceratinly not as good as the full-size amps. And low bias sets while interesting are pretty old technology._

 

Yep. I can't imagine how they got it to sound this good 28 years ago. 

 I am actually running my Sony CD player optical out into my iBasso D1 DAC first - and then have tried the iBasso DAC out directly into the SRD-X and also the DAC into my Darkvoice 336i and then into the SRD-X. I am liking it better with the tube amp between the DAC and the STAX.

 I suspect one of these days I'll end up with a nicer STAX system, but I wouldn't have a clue about the next step up. I figure if technology this old sounds this good, then I'll just try to enjoy it. I've been told that the current STAX Lambdas, the 303/404, sound too sterile vs the "old school" sound. I do wonder what a 303 with a nice affordable amp would sound like. I am also toying with the idea of the portable stax ear canal speakers, and adding a home ES amp to the setup...


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hehe, that was just for testing, I want to see how it can sound when there is no size limit..._

 

by the way, cats, I'm extremely appreciative about your experimentation on this, and am very interested to hear your final observations on the difference it makes, beyond the ca. 30 percent comment, which of course incites interest. Many thanks for making your kit the guinea pig for this noble experiment, 

 FV


----------



## spritzer

We could an unofficial site of our own but I'd rather spend my time working on making my system better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose a 13.8v supply is a bad idea? 12v 3a is proving hard to come by._

 

I would stick with 12v. You only need 1A so everything above that is just better as it gives the amp more headroom.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *makito* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On another note, does anyone have a freqency response graph for the Lambda Nova Classic's? I was hoping to get a comparison with the current SR-303/404s to see if it's worth the upgrade._

 

I've been wondering about the same thing, given the current exchange rates. The Lambda Nova series manual only has a graph for the Signature, however. If you like, I can scan and post it for you. (OK, I just did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
 In any case, I'd be interested to learn how you decide, and why. (for now, I don't have any plans to upgrade the SRM-3 that came with my Classics, BTW)

 [edit] graph added

 Ellen


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received one of the last pieces to my Stax collection a Gamma Pro Neu as they were called in Germany._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As it often happens with me I was a bit bored with 30 minutes to spare and a SR-X Mk3 and a Gamma Pro so now I have a SR-X Mk3 Pro on my head... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The conversion is not for the faint of heart but even with old flat earpads they sound pretty good. I used the old SR-X Mk3 cable so there is some sibilance but the sound is much better controlled compared to the Gamma Pro. More impressions later but I need to redo it with some better glue as I didn't have any double sided that that was this thin._

 

Well, what should I say? Other than congratulations and well done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You are now one of very few Head-Fi'ers who have listened to an SR-X/MK3 Pro. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *stax8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please Help!!
 the cable of my stax lamda pro has given its soul and i have to replace it 
 can you tell me please where i can find one or where i can find the Special 5-pin plug_

 

Two suggestions:
 * Buy an SR-202 spare cable from a Stax dealer.
 * Use an SRE-725. Splitting up the female end and mount it on the Lambda Pro's.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another question: Any difference between the Omega 2 MKII offered on Elusive Disc vs. AudioCubes, besides the regional warranty?_

 

Different housing color (black on export and polished alu in Japan). There are a noticeable price difference as well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Stax gurus,

 The hunt for my first set of Stax + energizer is not going well so far. I haven't seen anything reasonable in my price range (~500) on Ebay in the past month, and stuff gets snapped up off of here and Audiogon before I even see it._

 

Hang in there. Good deals show up to those who wait.
 Example; I scored an SR-X/MK3 with SRD-7 mk2 (both in good condition) for $140 on eBay earlier this year.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys... I've been thinking. Ever since I heard the Lambdas at the Atlanta meet, I've been yearning to hear that electrostatic sound again. The ultra-fast transient response was really impressive... I recently got a new job that has drastically increased my income. I thought about buying my own pair of Lambdas, but then after calculating my income after all of my possible expenses, I found it would only take me two months max to save up for a pair of SR-007Mk2s. So I'm going to do just that. Why go in steps, when I can just take the elevator straight to the top?

 I have several questions though:

 One problem is that the amplifiers seem to be equally as expensive. So here is my question: Which amplifer can I get that will sound good for the time being, but won't take another two or three months to save up for?_

 

I would go straight for the SR-007 (mk2) as well. Cause if you go for one of the Lambda's I am afraid upgradeitis will come to you in a matter of weeks.

 Regarding amplification. One way might be to buy an SRM-1/MK2, which you use while saving up for a more powerful amplifier. Then sell later on. Or you can buy an SRD-7mk2 or Pro, and drive the SR-007 (mk2) with "any speakers amp. I have had pretty good results with both solutions, driving my SR-007BL's.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it worth getting the newer 007s over the older ones? Is there a drastic difference in sound quality or other properties?_

 

Depends.
 You can most probably score an SR-007 for $1000-1200, while you have to pay around $1800 for an SR-007mk2. Are the small improvements worth $6-800? I am not certain...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, what should I say? Other than congratulations and well done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You are now one of very few Head-Fi'ers who have listened to an SR-X/MK3 Pro. _

 

I just spent the last two hours altering a normal SR-X Mk3 cable over to a 5 pin one with minimal damage to it. That involved cutting away the strain relief on the plug, making an incision in the cloth covering and joining the black wire to the blue wire, insulate and gluing the strain relief back in place. Then I used a combination of drills and removed the center pin from the plug, all to create a cable like the Mk-3 Pro was shipped with. Not an easy task but if there was ever any doubt about my insanity they are gone now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still need to do some tweaking with the glue used to hold the drivers in place but these phones do sound great and I vastly prefer them to the Gamma Pro or the normal SR-X Mk3. The bass is deep and well controlled, the midrange a cut above the normal one and not a trace of the brightness that plagued the original. Use them with a Gamma headband and some new pads and they are even quite comfy and good for some 2-3 hours of constant use.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just spent the last two hours altering a normal SR-X Mk3 cable over to a 5 pin one with minimal damage to it. That involved cutting away the strain relief on the plug, making an incision in the cloth covering and joining the black wire to the blue wire, insulate and gluing the strain relief back in place. Then I used a combination of drills and removed the center pin from the plug, all to create a cable like the Mk-3 Pro was shipped with. Not an easy task but if there was ever any doubt about my insanity they are gone now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still need to do some tweaking with the glue used to hold the drivers in place but these phones do sound great and I vastly prefer them to the Gamma Pro or the normal SR-X Mk3. The bass is deep and well controlled, the midrange a cut above the normal one and not a trace of the brightness that plagued the original. Use them with a Gamma headband and some new pads and they are even quite comfy and good for some 2-3 hours of constant use._

 

Why not replace the cable outright, even the GPs have better cable. <_< The gamma headbands do make the SR-Xmk3 a lot easier to use but they're just too frail to be used as a permanent fixture...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why not replace the cable outright, even the GPs have better cable. <_< The gamma headbands do make the SR-Xmk3 a lot easier to use but they're just too frail to be used as a permanent fixture..._

 

Insanity and the Gamma Pro cable has a short in it and looks like crap. Those GP's were in such awful conditions but the drivers are fine and thats all that matters. They stank of smoke, enough to bother me at the other side of the room and the were covered in filth. After having the case and earpads submerged in water and my secret weapon, Car interior shampoo, for more then an hour the smell is mostly gone but the water was black afterwards... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Still I have a great headphone and some much needed Gamma spare parts.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 the 3.7V is the standard lithium battery voltage (same as what I am using). Fully charged it will be 4.1~4.15V, the voltage will drop down to about 3.4V when it is almost depleted. the 3.7V spec is actually the average voltage.

 One single lithium ion AA 14500 rechargable cell is about 750~900mAH rating, it will last 2 hours to most, actually once the voltage drops down too much the baby stax amp's sound will get duller, so the "good sound" battery life with a single AA lithium will probably only be an hour or so. That was why I suggest using two 14500 in parallel, they can use the existing battery compartment and you can get 3 hours of good sound per charge. 3 hours on the go is pretty good.

 The batteries shown in the picture are 14650 cell phone cells, I am using them for testing purpose, they are 15mm too long to fit into the battery compartment. I guess I will be buying some 14500 AA pretty soon. 
 

Thanks I have a few Ultrafire 14500's here; So it is a very cheap upgrade. hope I will hear the improvement! (got a SRM-212 running from a motorcycle battery)


 edit: swapped the batteries with one Li-ion (and a copper pass-through)
 Huge, huge improvement ! Thanks

 edit2: I hear the SR-001 driver sqeak for a second only when I use the Li-ion and put it on (like a capacitator in a flash); is this harmful or should I better use 3.0v LiFePO4 batteries ?
 Also I don''t think the - of the battery compartment and the - of the input jack are connected.
 So again does the 2-6v also count for the battery compartment?

 tip for more comfort: switch the standard pads on the S-001 with some earbuds from a noice canceling in-ear headphone (f.e. from a cx300, ep630) those are more "self fitting" in the ear so more conform and a better bass.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep. I can't imagine how they got it to sound this good 28 years ago. 

 I am actually running my Sony CD player optical out into my iBasso D1 DAC first - and then have tried the iBasso DAC out directly into the SRD-X and also the DAC into my Darkvoice 336i and then into the SRD-X. I am liking it better with the tube amp between the DAC and the STAX.

 I suspect one of these days I'll end up with a nicer STAX system, but I wouldn't have a clue about the next step up. I figure if technology this old sounds this good, then I'll just try to enjoy it. I've been told that the current STAX Lambdas, the 303/404, sound too sterile vs the "old school" sound. I do wonder what a 303 with a nice affordable amp would sound like. I am also toying with the idea of the portable stax ear canal speakers, and adding a home ES amp to the setup..._

 

Yoda, the force is strong within you, be temped by upraditis not.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_edit2: I hear the SR-001 driver sqeak for a second only when I use the Li-ion and put it on (like a capacitator in a flash); is this harmful or should I better use 3.0v LiFePO4 batteries ?
_

 

is it the sqeak you hear when the amp is first turned on, after being off for a while? I hear it with all power sources, wallward, lithium, and 2x AA Alkaline, before and after my mods, so it is just the way the inverter power supply in the amp works. The transformer is probably trying hard to charge up empty capacitors when the amp is first turned on. You can actually hear the transformer make that sound too, not just the drivers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yoda, the force is strong within you, be temped by upraditis not._

 

My 10 year old son, Ben, auditioned many of my headphones tonight - with the source DAC and AMP setup as stated in my last post. Without telling him how much they cost, or how old any of them are, his ranking and comments were as follows:

 Favorite = STAX SR-Lambda with SRD-X "they're so clear, like water"
 2nd = HD600 with APureSound V3 cable "these feel good to wear"
 3rd = RS-2 with APS V3 cable "dad, are these good for rock?"
 4th = Denon D2000 with APS V2 cable "dad, these sound like those (HD600) but not open."
 5th = Ultrasone Proline 2500 "what kind of music are these good for?"
 6th = Senn HD25-1 "when I get good at drums these would be nice for you to not hear me".
 7th = Alessandro MS-1 "dad, can I have these since you have all those?" (bowls better than comfys)
 8th = Ultrasone HFI700 "dad, these sound more boxy"

 He liked any in the top 7, and I've been teaching him about open and closed, electrostatic and dynamic, and which ones are a good match for what music. I am very impressed with his ears!


----------



## mapstec

HeadphoneAddict,

 if you have not already done there is one update you should definitely do: throw away the wallwart for the SRD-X. The difference between this and a beefier power-supply needs to be heard to be believed...


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 10 year old son, Ben, auditioned many of my headphones tonight - with the source DAC and AMP setup as stated in my last post. Without telling him how much they cost, or how old any of them are, his ranking and comments were as follows:

 Favorite = STAX SR-Lambda with SRD-X "they're so clear, like water"
 2nd = HD600 with APureSound V3 cable "these feel good to wear"
 3rd = RS-2 with APS V3 cable "dad, are these good for rock?"
 4th = Denon D2000 with APS V2 cable "dad, these sound like those (HD600) but not open."
 5th = Ultrasone Proline 2500 "what kind of music are these good for?"
 6th = Senn HD25-1 "when I get good at drums these would be nice for you to not hear me".
 7th = Alessandro MS-1 "dad, can I have these since you have all those?" (bowls better than comfys)
 8th = Ultrasone HFI700 "dad, these sound more boxy"

 He liked any in the top 7, and I've been teaching him about open and closed, electrostatic and dynamic, and which ones are a good match for what music. I am very impressed with his ears!_

 

Interesting to hear the impressions of someone with unspoiled eardrums and without opinions.


----------



## billinkansas

D.P. - not sure how this happened.


----------



## milkpowder

Yes! Another victory for Team Stax 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gotta start 'em young.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict,

 if you have not already done there is one update you should definitely do: throw away the wallwart for the SRD-X. The difference between this and a beefier power-supply needs to be heard to be believed... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Do you have any links/prices or suggestions to a better power supply?

 Are there any "good" affordable STAX amps that have both a low and high bias jack? Again, links/prices are always welcome.

 Thanks!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting to hear the impressions of someone with unspoiled eardrums and without opinions._

 

I'm not too sure about a ten year old without opinions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but now that he's heard Stax his eardrums have definitely been spoiled


----------



## mapstec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have any links/prices or suggestions to a better power supply?

 Are there any "good" affordable STAX amps that have both a low and high bias jack? Again, links/prices are always welcome.

 Thanks!_

 

Basically any 12V powersupply that has about about or more then 1000MA capacity, but beware that Stax has reversed polarity as opposed to almost anyone else, so you need to be able to set that correctly.

 I just got myself such a SRM-1 MK-2, but as to prices you just ask at a time of greater interest = higher prices ...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basically any 12V powersupply that has about about or more then 1000MA capacity, but beware that Stax has reversed polarity as opposed to almost anyone else, so you need to be able to set that correctly.

 I just got myself such a SRM-1 MK-2, but as to prices you just ask at a time of greater interest = higher prices ..._

 


 This is a 1000MA 12V power supply, and I mentioned it uses a negative tip (the opposite of usual).


----------



## AudioCats

some updates on the SRM-001 opamp rolling: (uploading pictures first, I will post impressions after each opamp gets at least 10 hours of burn-in):

 some data about the stock amp: 
 -whole amplifier current draw when using 3.7V lithium batteries: with no op-amp plugged in=220mA; with original JRC062 plugged in = 220mA (wow, the 062 almost consume no power at all).
 -SQ of stock configuration: If you haven't heard the upgraded version, the stock amp sounds pretty good......

 Stock op-amp: JRC062L, very low current requirement (0.2mA per chip), low slew rate=3.5V/uS. The sound is clean, probably more because of the eletrostatic phones than the opamp itself. Sound is not airy, has an emphasize in mids, kind of "transistor radio" sounding when compared to the other better opamps. Now, by itself the 062L sound is not bad at all, it's just the newer/better opamps sound so much better......


 now the different chips

 The ancient hot-rod (yes they were in the early 90's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 : NE5532
 --current draw, whole amp: 400mA
 --much more spacious than the 062L, the sound is very soft, not sharp enough for guitar tracks. It is also mids emphasized (or treble recessed), the mids are realistic, so that is good. Good bass, good ambience. Not very fast though.







 LM4562 (the usual upgrade opamp for 5532): 
 --current draw, whole amp= 500mA
 --The sound is clean, cleaner than the 8599. Not sure why I felt that way, it is either the 4562 is presenting highs better or it is not showing as much little micro details as the 8599. Not as much bass as the 8599, but bass definition is good. Anyway the 4562 is not as fully bodied as the 8599 or the 5532. 







 TL082
 Stock opamps (062L's) are ultra low power yet much lower performence version of 082. So it makes sense to see how the "uncompromised" version sounds like. These 082's I got here are the hottest 20V/uS edition.
 -- Did not test the whole amp current draw, but since the 082 has about the same current requirement as the 5532 I will guess around 400mA.
 -- sharper sounding than 5532, much better than the low-current 062L, but like the 062L, the 082 is still mids emphasized. Bass is kind of dry, simply not enough for my taste. The sound is pretty fast, ok for guitar tracks. Vocal not very realistic when comparing to other better chips. The overall impression is: sounds kind of dry and hard (?), maybe there is a mids spike somewhere.








 AD8599 (supposedly very fine sounding and a great compromise of many worlds....)
 --current draw, whole amp= 450mA
 --This chip have received quite some hype/acclaim in the DIY forum, mainly from NelsonVendal. It is indeed very good. The sound is darker, more up-front, intimate, juicy and sensual. Warm and very full bodied sound. Great for acustic guitar, full rounded bass (it can even sound slightly too bassy if you make the "baby-stax-face" when playing bass heavy tracks). good bass texture, good details, good resolution. 
 --All in all a great general purpose replacement chip for the SRM-001, but especially good for playing vocal. Not as sharp as I want for playing Rock/electric guitar though. 8599 comes in dual form and will fit right onto the existing SOIC-8 pads on the circuit board, promissing a very straight forward installation. 







 Modern hot-rods: AD825
 --current draw, whole amp=500mA
 -- when I firt install these chips, they sucked so much juice that the on-board power supply couldn't keep up at high volume. After about 30 hours of burn-in though, things have vastly improved, now I get full bass even at very high sound level (louder than I should be listening to). This is with those two external 640uF extra-low ESR caps though.......
 -- Great sound stage, very spacious sound stage (for in-ear phones), much better resolution/finer detail than the 8599, but not as much body. Brighter and more "distant" sounding comparing to the 8599. Great bass, very clean and much better texture than any of the above, though not as much in bass quantity as the 8599's. This will be the chip to use for basically everything, it might be the best replacement chip you can install (there are better chips I am sure but the +/- current limitation prevents the usual opamp king such as OPA627 from working in this amp). 
 -- Too bad the 825 are only single amps and fitting them onto the board involves quite a bit of work. But that is why DIY is fun, right? 









 The super fast budget op-amp: AD826
 current draw, whole amp= 510mA
 - wouldn't work, major clipping even at low volume, tried only installing one and the clipping was still there, though not as bad. Simply couldn't get it to work. 






 update (12-13-07):
 op-amp test basically done. The +/- supply in the little amp turned out to be the major constrain. You can not use any opamp that demands supply current more than 5mA/amp. The 5.5mA is the about the absolute cut point. AD8599 uses less than 5mA/amp and worked great, AD826 requires 7mA/amp and didn't work (major clipping), while the AD825 and LM4562 both work kind of ok, bass suffers a little (5-6mA/amp). So I didn't get to use my OPA637's (7mA/amp) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 impression will come out by next monday.

 update 12-16-07:
 added the impressions. The 825 is the overall winner, but 8599's are still the #1 recommandtion for the opamp upgrade (very easy to install and don't require super fancy miniature hi-cap capacitors for power supply). 5532 is actually not too bad, I will place it in the 3rd place. There is still AD823 that can work but I didn't buy any due to the bad rep it has received in the DIY forum. AD823 is a low current requirement chip like the 5532 and TL082, and possibly sound better than either. It is also an easy-to-install dual opamp. Maybe somebody will put a pair into his SRM-001 and tell us how it works out. 

 Nex test series will be the output caps......


 * A "baby-stax-face": put the earspeakers into your ears, then rotate the wire stem forward until it is almost horizontal pointing forward. you should now have a wider sound stage and the bass should get stronger (at least that is how it happens to me). Now open your mouth and drop your jaw as far as possible, as if you were startled, this will open up the connection between your inner ear and the throat and give you even better bass......Experiment different facial expression and find one that gives you the best sound effect from your earspeakers and that will be your "baby stax expression". Enjoy.


----------



## Faust2D

Very interesting. What do you like so far?


----------



## ueyteuor

fellow stax'rs, i want to upgrade my stax system a little.. so can i get some help? i want to know how much will a better power supply (benchtop) improve in performance? right now im just using a simple radioshack 12v wall wart.. but im thinking of going to a benchtop psu, like a 12v 3amp one... but first, which of them is good? and would it be better getting a 2.5 amp constant / 3 amp surge, or 3 amp surge / 4 amp surge? secondly, i see on the psu's there is a positive and negative outputs in the front... what wires or whatever go there?? (im guessing you strip the wires off a wall wart power supply, and wire them to the + and -, and plug into the amp???)

 im currently using a srs2050 system just in case..

 thanks


----------



## spritzer

As long as there is more then enough current available it will be fine so just buy the biggest one you can find. This is a long term investment as you can use it to drive all kinds of things. 

 You do use the wire from a wall wart of make your own and the ring goes to the + terminal while the pin goes to the - terminal.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The LME49720 is the newer improved version of the LM4562. You may want to try those too. I have a couple of each, for my iBasso D1, P2 and other stuff.


----------



## Johnny Blue

I'm tempted by all this talk of upgrading power supplies for the SRM-212/252 to buy a bench PSU: I've seen ones that go up to about 20 or 30V and 2.5A, which are available here in the UK for about £50 - £60 (and these variable voltage jobbies have the advantage that I could use them with the SRM-001 as well).

 My question is: will any of these bench PSUs really provide better sound quality? I ask because I've tried an alternative wallwart (an ordinary switchable voltage job that goes up to 12V, 1.25A output, regulated, and cost about £10) and I'm jiggered if I can hear the difference between it and the Stax one that comes with the SRM-212 (using the stock 202s).

Edit:

 And I am right in assuming that a switched-mode PS is not as good (sonically) as a normal, heavy, regulated one?


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as there is more then enough current available it will be fine so just buy the biggest one you can find. This is a long term investment as you can use it to drive all kinds of things. 

 You do use the wire from a wall wart of make your own and the ring goes to the + terminal while the pin goes to the - terminal._

 

thanks, but what do you mean by ring and pin??


----------



## ueyteuor

what do you guys think of this psu:

NEW PYLE 3 AMP 12v HAM CAR SHOP POWER SUPPLY PSL42X - (eBay item 110203875609 end time Dec-15-07 19:25:27 PST)

 ??


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm tempted by all this talk of upgrading power supplies for the SRM-212/252 to buy a bench PSU: I've seen ones that go up to about 20 or 30V and 2.5A, which are available here in the UK for about £50 - £60 (and these variable voltage jobbies have the advantage that I could use them with the SRM-001 as well).

 My question is: will any of these bench PSUs really provide better sound quality? I ask because I've tried an alternative wallwart (an ordinary switchable voltage job that goes up to 12V, 1.25A output, regulated, and cost about £10) and I'm jiggered if I can hear the difference between it and the Stax one that comes with the SRM-212 (using the stock 202s)._

 

It's the same benefit as to installing better PSU to any other amp but it does make a very positive change for the price of a cheap IC. I would start with a 3A or larger unit but comparing a bench top PSU to any wall wart is very insulting to the bench tops... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks, but what do you mean by ring and pin??_

 

I meant the ting and pin of the plug that goes into the Stax amp. It's polarity is reversed to the normal where the pin is + and the ring -.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks, but what do you mean by ring and pin??_

 

I think spritzer means the outer and inner part of the plug, respectively; the inner part is often called the tip (even though it's inside) and that has a negative contact in the case of Stax, whereas most manufacturers have a positive tip/inner/pin (choose your terminology!).

Edit:

 Sorry spritzer, we crossed!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the same benefit as to installing better PSU to any other amp but it does make a very positive change for the price of a cheap IC. I would start with a 3A or larger unit but comparing a bench top PSU to any wall wart is very insulting to the bench tops... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 You suggest 3A: a pity, I'd just discovered this, which I can get delivered for £37, but it's only 2A...

 ...3A jobbies (not switched mode ones) here in the UK seem to start at at least £100.


----------



## ueyteuor

ok one more question for now.. how do you determine which wire is pos and which is neg after you strip the wire?? or does it not matter?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You suggest 3A: a pity, I'd just discovered this, which I can get delivered for £37, but it's only 2A...

 ...3A jobbies (not switched mode ones) here in the UK seem to start at at least £100._

 

It's 2A@20v so it's 3.33A@12V. I'd buy this one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok one more question for now.. how do you determine which wire is pos and which is neg after you strip the wire?? or does it not matter?_

 

You can use a continuance check on a volt meter and see which wire is which. Just set it so measure resistivity and put one probe against the ring and tap each of the wires. When you get a reading that wire is connected to the ring.

 Btw. The supply you linked to should work. It gives out 13.8v but it drops to 12v under load.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You suggest 3A: a pity, I'd just discovered this, which I can get delivered for £37, but it's only 2A...

 ...3A jobbies (not switched mode ones) here in the UK seem to start at at least £100._

 

heres a cheaper one: Regulated Power Supply With Variable Output Voltage 0-20V/2A Max

 same exact one


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's 2A@20v so it's 3.33A@12V. I'd buy this one... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 You can use a continuance check on a volt meter and see which wire is which. Just set it so measure resistivity and put one probe against the ring and tap each of the wires. When you get a reading that wire is connected to the ring.

 Btw. The supply you linked to should work. It gives out 13.8v but it drops to 12v under load._

 

thanks!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_heres a cheaper one: Regulated Power Supply With Variable Output Voltage 0-20V/2A Max

 same exact one_

 

Yes, thanks, I'd already spotted that one, and by the time I've added on delivery and (UK) VAT it comes to £37!!!

 There's one a bit cheaper on eBay (co.uk) but I'm waiting to hear if there's a local stockist who has one and so I can save on delivery...

 Thanks again for the info...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. The supply you linked to should work. It gives out 13.8v but it drops to 12v under load._

 

Would this explain why there are so many 13.8V PSUs out there? The world is full of them, and I can't think of anything that runs off 13.8V, but I thought if it was a regulated PSU, it gave out the quoted voltage, and not drop when under load?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would this explain why there are so many 13.8V PSUs out there? The world is full of them, and I can't think of anything that runs off 13.8V, but I thought if it was a regulated PSU, it gave out the quoted voltage, and not drop when under load?_

 

The voltage always drops a bit under load but that could be why there are all these 13.8v psu's...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Also,

 Car audio is "12v" but under power the car's alternator puts out at least 13.8v (sometimes up to 14.4). So, I bet people use these for running car audio equipment at home.


----------



## pipoplus

I can buy a SRM-1/MK2 as a replacement for my SRM-212.
 Will this be a (small/large) upgrade?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can buy a SRM-1/MK2 as a replacement for my SRM-212.
 Will this be a (small/large) upgrade?_

 

I did this and it IS a worthwhile upgrade, but then it does depend on cost: mine was less than £150/$300/€200 when I got it about 18 months ago...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can buy a SRM-1/MK2 as a replacement for my SRM-212.
 Will this be a (small/large) upgrade?_

 


 The SRM-1 mk2 Pro (make sure it is a Pro, the non Pro is low bias only) is one of Stax's better amps. It is nicely made, clean and dynamic. It will even drive the O2 in a pinch. If the price is right go for it.


----------



## milkpowder

Most of the SRM-1 mk2 Pros that come up are As. If there's a high s/n C5xxx, I may be tempted too... Can anyone remember whether Jahn's is a C?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most of the SRM-1 mk2 Pros that come up are As. If there's a high s/n C5xxx, I may be tempted too... Can anyone remember whether Jahn's is a C?_

 

If it has a sliver faceplate it's most likely an "A" but a "B" or a "C" if it has a black faceplate. This is by no means conclusive but a good guide.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 The SRM-1 mk2 Pro (make sure it is a Pro, the non Pro is low bias only) is one of Stax's better amps. It is nicely made, clean and dynamic. It will even drive the O2 in a pinch. If the price is right go for it. 
 

How can I see if it it is a Pro. (does it say on the front or on top?)

 The seller told me it is the one with both the 5pin pro and a 6pin non pro connector. It has a silver faceplate (although he also had a black one) and I have to pay $300-$350.
 .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can I see if it it is a Pro. (does it say on the front?)

 The seller told me it is the one with both the 5pin pro and a 6pin non pro connector. It has a silver faceplate (although he also had a black one) and I have to pay $300-$350.

 This was the only SRM-1 mk2 with both connectors that I have found on wikipedia;
 SRM-1/MK2 1982 370V 1x RCA 1x Pro Bias, 1x Normal Bias Solid state_

 

It says Professional on the top plate right next to the front if it is a Pro model but since you know it has a 5 pin plug it is a Pro model. 300$ seems to be the current market price so it's not bad for an amp in good condition that hasn't been modded like so many have.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can I see if it it is a Pro. (does it say on the front?)

 The seller told me it is the one with both the 5pin pro and a 6pin non pro connector. It has a silver faceplate (although he also had a black one) and I have to pay $300-$350.

 This was the only SRM-1 mk2 with both connectors that I have found on wikipedia;
 SRM-1/MK2 1982 370V 1x RCA 1x Pro Bias, 1x Normal Bias Solid state_

 

You can spot it easily: it says 'Professional' on the TOP of the amp (right at the front, near the face plate, on the left), and if it has the 5 pin socket then that is the pro-bias output you'll need to go with your 202s. I would say the price is par for the course these days (although if the black's the same sort of price, I'd go for that... ).

Edit:

 Sorry Birgir, we crossed again!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry Birgir, we crossed again!_

 

Hehe twice in two days...


----------



## pipoplus

Thanks, you guys are fast!
 I have asked the seller if he can sell the black one instead...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, you guys are fast!
 I have asked the seller if he can sell the black one instead..._

 

We aim to please...


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also,

 Car audio is "12v" but under power the car's alternator puts out at least 13.8v (sometimes up to 14.4). So, I bet people use these for running car audio equipment at home._

 

Actually, 13.8V is the nominal voltage of a 12 cell, "12V" battery, which is what the other components in the car's electrical system, including the alternator, and those PSUs are designed for.

 Ellen


----------



## keanej6

i'd love to eventually get some 'stats but it won't be for a good while. i was wondering though how the different models compare with each other. i know dynamic headphones can sound much superior up the latter from the entry level phones. for example, does the sr-404 pwn the sr-303? is the difference comparable to say the sr-60 to the sr-225 or sr-225 to the rs-1? being much more expensive, i'd assume the differences would be much less subtle.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *keanej6* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_. for example, does the sr-404 pwn the sr-303? is the difference comparable to say the sr-60 to the sr-225 or sr-225 to the rs-1? being much more expensive, i'd assume the differences would be much less subtle._

 

No, no and your assumption is wrong.IMO.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ beyond the ca. 30 percent comment, which of course incites interest._

 


 Anyway, judged from the opamp test results, that "up to 30%" was a major major understatement. Yes, I plugged the original TL062's back into the amp and couldn't stand them for more than 10 seconds (no exagperation here, at all).

 updated my last post. If interested, go back a few pages to check it.


----------



## pipoplus

nice going; I keep scrolling back to see the differences
 which better sounding opamp is the most easy replacement for the stock opamp?

 I looking forward to your tutorial 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 and the end results


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, judged from the opamp test results, that "up to 30%" was a major major understatement. Yes, I plugged the original TL062's back into the amp and couldn't stand them for more than 10 seconds (no exagperation here, at all).

 updated my last post. If interested, go back a few pages to check it._

 

So it looks like AD8599 is the best of the bunch? What is the battery life like with new op-amps?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_update (12-13-07):
 op-amp test basically done. The +/- supply in the little amp turned out to be the major constrain. You can not use any opamp that demands supply current more than 5mA/amp. The 5.5mA is the about the absolute cut point. AD8599 uses less than 5mA/amp and worked great, AD826 requires 7mA/amp and didn't work (major clipping), while the AD825 and LM4562 both work kind of ok, bass suffers a little (5-6mA/amp). So I didn't get to use my OPA637's (7mA/amp) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 impression will come out by next monday._

 

Thanks for all of the efforts. A shame about the supply current limitation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. But it sounds like you still found a mod that will reap considerable SQ improvements 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 I'm sure I speak for all of us in looking forward with great expectation to your Monday report!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can I see if it it is a Pro. (does it say on the front or on top?)

 The seller told me it is the one with both the 5pin pro and a 6pin non pro connector. It has a silver faceplate (although he also had a black one) and I have to pay $300-$350.
 ._

 

It say "Professional" at the front-top, as shown in this picture of mine (B-20xx).
 ..and it have both Pro and Normal bias outputs.





 A nice amplifier indeed, and well worth $300 imo.


----------



## spritzer

As some of you might know I'm not particularly fond of the Lambda Pro's for a number of reasons and I've never quite understood what people see in them. I do know that I'm overly picky but since I had taken them out of the "vault" for a little photo shoot this morning I decided to give them a real chance and listen to them a whole day. The set I'm using is pretty near NOS and with new earpads, installed by me. 

 Now onto the most important part, the sound. It's always been the midrange that has bothered me the the most as it is noticeably recessed or set back in comparison to the rest of the spectrum and other Lambdas. This makes voices sound like they are small and insignificant and further away from the head. This is an obvious coloration but lets move on. The soundstage is the typical Lambda stage except for the distant voices so nothing new here. The highs are also flawed as they lack texture and all sparkle while being just a little bit bright. They just seem insignificant in comparison to the SR-Lambda and Signature cause me to increase the volume level to compensate for the lack of HF output. Now we move onto the bass and the real weak link of the phones... it sounds to dynamic!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is this extra thickness to the bass that just makes them sound muddy and not as quick as either the Sr-Lambda or the Lambda Signature. Instead of the quick electrostatic bass I'm expecting I get this thump sound but less extension. 

 It's clear to me that the phones are producing more energy then they can dissipate into the housing so the bass becomes this mess and the sound is much darker then it should be. Some of the mods from the 80's that were used by Stax dealers and owners such as removing the damping and trying to put more weight on the baffle and the housing might be a good thing after all. 

 The Lambda Pro's are still great headphones and among the top 30 or so but they are far from the best thing Stax has ever made and even pretty low on that list. I think I might do some of these mini reviews in the future as my large scale Lambda review ended up as 4 pages on the history of the Lambda line and not much more then a few lines on how the phones sounded. I might finish it some day but I think I'll give the Lambda Spirit a shot next.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As some of you might know I'm not particularly fond of the Lambda Pro's for a number of reasons and I've never quite understood what people see in them. I do know that I'm overly picky but since I had taken them out of the "vault" for a little photo shoot this morning I decided to give them a real chance and listen to them a whole day. The set I'm using is pretty near NOS and with new earpads, installed by me. 

 Now onto the most important part, the sound. It's always been the midrange that has bothered me the the most as it is noticeably recessed or set back in comparison to the rest of the spectrum and other Lambdas. This makes voices sound like they are small and insignificant and further away from the head. This is an obvious coloration but lets move on. The soundstage is the typical Lambda stage except for the distant voices so nothing new here. The highs are also flawed as they lack texture and all sparkle while being just a little bit bright. They just seem insignificant in comparison to the SR-Lambda and Signature cause me to increase the volume level to compensate for the lack of HF output. Now we move onto the bass and the real weak link of the phones... it sounds to dynamic!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is this extra thickness to the bass that just makes them sound muddy and not as quick as either the Sr-Lambda or the Lambda Signature. Instead of the quick electrostatic bass I'm expecting I get this thump sound but less extension. 

 It's clear to me that the phones are producing more energy then they can dissipate into the housing so the bass becomes this mess and the sound is much darker then it should be. Some of the mods from the 80's that were used by Stax dealers and owners such as removing the damping and trying to put more weight on the baffle and the housing might be a good thing after all. 

 The Lambda Pro's are still great headphones and among the top 30 or so but they are far from the best thing Stax has ever made and even pretty low on that list. I think I might do some of these mini reviews in the future as my large scale Lambda review ended up as 4 pages on the history of the Lambda line and not much more then a few lines on how the phones sounded. I might finish it some day but I think I'll give the Lambda Spirit a shot next._

 

Thanks for the mini-review. With your stock of phones you are in a great situation to give comparative reviews, which are, in my opinion, the only ones worth doing in audio.

 I do get confused about the various Lambda models however. In spite of their superficial similarity they vary in driver construction. This includes diaphragm thickness and stator construction. Some stators are perforated copper, some are a screen. Some Lambdas have damping and some don't. 

 So how are these made and what is their approximate date of construction?

 The more I hear about weighting the Stax phones to improve the sound, the more I think this could help except for the obvious problems of adding weight to something like a Sigma which is already quite heavy and bulky. I wonder about other ways of improvement such as improving the rigidity of the mounting of transducers. Some stats seem surprisingly flimsy in the way they are put together.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Originally Posted by pipoplus View Post
 How can I see if it it is a Pro. (does it say on the front or on top?)

 The seller told me it is the one with both the 5pin pro and a 6pin non pro connector. It has a silver faceplate (although he also had a black one) and I have to pay $300-$350.
 .
 It say "Professional" at the front-top, as shown in this picture of mine (B-20xx).
 ..and it have both Pro and Normal bias outputs.


 A nice amplifier indeed, and well worth $300 imo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

I have bought the same black one b series and paid a good price.
 should be in mint state from a first owner. 
 Should arrive in a few days


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the mini-review. With your stock of phones you are in a great situation to give comparative reviews, which are, in my opinion, the only ones worth doing in audio.

 I do get confused about the various Lambda models however. In spite of their superficial similarity they vary in driver construction. This includes diaphragm thickness and stator construction. Some stators are perforated copper, some are a screen. Some Lambdas have damping and some don't. 

 So how are these made and what is their approximate date of construction?_

 

Stax has never been very forthcoming about the stator materials and almost never mention them unlike how the touted the diaphragms thickness. I did a quick browse through my Stax archives and I found almost no mention of stator material unless it was the SR-Ω. I know the earlier Lambda designs used copper stators but the Nova's might have made the jump into mesh the same as the SR-Ω. 

 The SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro are both fitted with damping pads inside the earcups. They are very thin so their effect is minimal but it does roll off the sound somewhat. I think I should just post a list of the lambdas:

 SR-Lambda (1979) - 230v - 2um - damped backwave 
 SR-Lambda PRO (1982) - 580v - 1.5 um -damped backwave
 SR-Lambda Signature (1987) - 580v - 1um - undamped and supposed to have better plastic housing
 SR-Lambda Spirit (1992) - 580v - 1.5um -undamped and also called Pro Classic outside of Japan
 SR-Lambda Nova Signature (1994) - 580v - 1.5um - undamped, new faux leather earpads and mesh electrodes?

 I have a bunch of stuff in German that I'll look through that might hold clues but anybody with old Stax brochures might find something in them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The more I hear about weighting the Stax phones to improve the sound, the more I think this could help except for the obvious problems of adding weight to something like a Sigma which is already quite heavy and bulky. I wonder about other ways of improvement such as improving the rigidity of the mounting of transducers. Some stats seem surprisingly flimsy in the way they are put together._

 

Most of the Stax transducers are glued to the baffle much like the earpads and that certainly could be bettered by clamping the driver between two pieces that will make the driver housing part of a bigger unit that can dissipate the extra energy better. This is one of the reasons why the SR-007 is so good as the driver is encased in plastic and then aluminum.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, judged from the opamp test results, that "up to 30%" was a major major understatement. Yes, I plugged the original TL062's back into the amp and couldn't stand them for more than 10 seconds (no exagperation here, at all).

 updated my last post. If interested, go back a few pages to check it._

 

Great work cats, I appreciate it tremendously and I've never yet even bought an SR-001. But I probably will in time.

 So the opamps were the biggest culprit on the board? No surprise, it's the DIY headphone equivalent of "the butler did it." And the opamps issue is solvable within the existing case, it seems. Any other tweaks that need to be done in the case? Throw in some caps and you could start offering a $70 mod package for needy SR-001 owners.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro's are still great headphones and among the top 30 or so but they are far from the best thing Stax has ever made and even pretty low on that list._

 

I love my SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro phones. I’ve spent so much time lately comparing the SR-007 to the new mk2 that I need to bring out my Lambda’s and do some more listening. I have 2 sets of Pro’s and they both sound great. I find them easy to listen to with most material especially with acoustic live recordings. The SR-Lambda probably has the more neutral tonal balance, but the Pro is a little more exciting to listen to. The bass seems deep and punchy without any overhang. When I use my SRM-007t amp most of the Lambda glare is tamed. I would like to hear your Pro’s compared to mine (both Pro’s are stock but have new earpads). I agree with you that the SR-Lambda is one of the better Lambda phones but never gets much press.

 AudioD


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And the opamps issue is solvable within the existing case, it seems. Any other tweaks that need to be done in the case? Throw in some caps and you could start offering a $70 mod package for needy SR-001 owners._

 

$70 won't do it. $100 might be possible for the mid-grade mods, if somebody is willing to do it (not me). 
 If DIY, you can probably get it done with $35-$40 worth of parts ($3 for high voltage X2 polyprop caps, $8 input caps, $15 opamps, $6 for good miniature 16v caps, and $4 for output polyprop caps), then the parts shipping (from two different places) will cost you another $15, so less than $55 total for your new DIY project, not too bad. 

 Mods can be done to four areas: 
 1) input/output capacitor upgrade, using polyprop caps and blackgate NX for intput stage will probably bring 20-40% improvement over the original polyester (?) and aluminum electrolytic. Not sure about the % here since I (still) haven't even order the blackgates yet. The output caps on the other hand might not give you much SQ improvement, I didn't notice much difference by installing the Panasonic polyprop caps. I bought three different kind of polyprop to try though, so hopefully one of the next two types will sound much better. 
 Otherwise, I might have to resort to the Auri caps, $10 a piece, ouch....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 2) high voltage power supply cap upgrade:
 If you don't hate bass, you must install better/larger high voltage caps. The input cap upgrade will improve mids and treble greatly, but will also make the bass, though now much better defined, sound weaker than before. High voltage caps should be at least 0.3uF (the stock cap was a 0.01uF polyester). These new power caps MUST be as high grade as possible, polyprop is pretty much the only choice. (.47uf polyprop has better over-all sound than 1.5uF Mylar caps. Treble, mids, bass, everything ). Due to the size limit, the X2 series caps are about the only options.
 Since I like bass, I will say the high voltage upgrade can improve the SQ by up to 50%.

 3) Opamp power supply upgrade, +/- , 9~12V:
 R33, 34 and 35 need to be shorted. The original purpose of these caps were probably for creating a Pie filter network so the filter capacitor can be small (stock caps were 10uF/16V). The new op-amps (next step) requires a lot more operating current than the stock JRC062L (most audio grade opamps require 3-5mA per amp, while the 062 only need 0.1mA), R33/34/35 will drop voltage so much that the new opamps won't work. How are we gonna make sure the power filtering is still good? simple, you drop the R in the RC circuit, then you increase the C, intall larger capacity caps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. High quality miniature 16V caps should be used, the minimum capacity requirement depends on the kind of opamp you use (AD823/NE5532/TL082 will need at least 100uf per side, AD8599 somewhere around 300uf per side, have no idea what the minimum will be for AD825's). The available room inside the case, again, is the limit here, so I suspect you can only pack enough uF inside the SRM-001 for the AD8599's.

 4) op-amp upgrade:
 The SRM-001's design came out 10years ago (1997), so an opamp upgrade makes a lot of sense.....
 --The standard upgrade chip recommandation is the AD8599, being a SOIC dual-opamp it can be soldered directly to the existing pads on the circuit board, very straight forward. 
 --If you have trouble getting the high capacity miniature caps for +/- supply, you can use available smaller capacity caps and low current opamps such as AD823 or TL082. I don't have AD823's to try so I have no idea how they will sound, but should be better than the 082 I supposed?
 -- AD825 shows much better resolution/texturing than the 8599, (though brighter and more distant too), but the power requirement really kills.... If you only listen in a quite environment and like to listen in low volume (not me), the 825 might still be used. That is IF you can somehow pack the required larger capacity +/- supply caps into the case.

 update: after 30 hours burn-in the 825 now works really well, have great bass even when at high volume, both the bass quantity and quality. But this is in the test configuration with two big external extra-low ESR 640uF caps, I don't know if the 825's will still work with a smaller cap that can go into the case..... simply not enough room inside for big caps. 
 For more opamp info please check out the opamp rolling post, the link is in my sig now.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So it looks like AD8599 is the best of the bunch? What is the battery life like with new op-amps?_

 

unfortunatly, yes, so far. The AD825 is better when listening in low volume, but it was a little too low for me. Once the sound level is cranked up the SQ goes down noticably, the power supply system simply couldn't keep up with the demand. (the problem is not necessary the op-amp supply section itself, I suspect it is due to the opamps sucking away too much energy from the transformer, there wasn't enough left for the output stage to pump out the sound).

 I wonder if it is possible to change the inverter transistors to larger size and get that problem solved....

 by the way, I added the battery current draw measurement to the opamp rolling post...... better sounding -> higher current -> shorter battery life. A pair of 14500 AA lithium rechargables can give you 3 hours of good sound, that is about it.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ That is IF you can somehow pack the required larger capacity +/- supply caps into the case._

 

No problem, you just cut a hole in the case. Add in a little clear plastic dome to protect the caps and show that it's a modded version, and you could probably charge $120 for the whole shebang. Alternatively, just put the whole thing in a hammond aluminum case and charge $200 to build the amp out of the stock one. I mean, what self-respecting Stax owner would be seen with an unmodded SR-001 after that? And with the mods in place, what IEM lover could claim to have better SQ from their $1000 customs? I'm tempted to order 20 kits worth of mods right now and let the business come to me.

 Great work, cats. Thanks for laying it all out clearly for those who will follow your lead. I'm sure we'll see a few.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem, you just cut a hole in the case. Add in a little clear plastic dome to protect the caps and show that it's a modded version, and you could probably charge $120 for the whole shebang._

 

I'd rather pack all the caps into the battery compartment, and use an slim external lithium-ion battery pack. That way you get as much (or little) run time as you want, and the amp's external apperance remains the same.....


 I am not sure if it will kill a custom IEM system though, dynamic and electrostatics both have their pro and con's. Though the 001's high voltage capacitor upgrade will improve bass greatly, the bass still isn't strong enough to impress a bass-head (unless the blackgate eletrolytics can prove me wrong latter......)
 I am only confident that a fully modded 001 can rival any portable system (phones and amp) within the $500 price range. Still, some people might not like the electrostatic's finer sound, and prefer dynamics more. The stats sound is kind of an aquired taste.



 by the way, since the baby stax has been out for so long already, there must have been SRM-001 mods done in Japan, can somebody who reads Japanese do a little research in the Japanese sites?


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_by the way, I added the battery current draw measurement to the opamp rolling post...... better sounding -> higher current -> shorter battery life. A pair of 14500 AA lithium rechargables can give you 3 hours of good sound, that is about it._

 

I'm not that knowledgeable in the field of electronics but would it be feasible to rig the amplifier to re-charge the lithium batteries if it was plugged into an AC adapter?

 Maybe this is an idiotic question?


----------



## keanej6

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, no and your assumption is wrong.IMO._

 

wow that was super helpful. care to elaborate?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *keanej6* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i was wondering though how the different models compare with each other. i know dynamic headphones can sound much superior up the latter from the entry level phones. for example, does the sr-404 pwn the
 sr-303? is the difference comparable to say the sr-60 to the sr-225 or sr-225 to the rs-1?_

 

There are just minor audible differences between the SR-303 and the SR-404.
 They share identical transducers, and the only difference (except for external color) are the cable. The SR-404 use the Wide format Low Capacitance PC-OCC Conductor cable, as used on the SR-007 and 4070. While the SR-303 use a narrow Low Capacitance PC-OCC Conductor cable.

 The difference are probably comparable to the difference between the RS-2 and RS-1.


----------



## krmathis

Birgir. All your raving about the SR-Lambda are not helping me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I _really_ need to get a hold of one.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *keanej6* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow that was super helpful. care to elaborate?_

 

Unless you like the color the 404 isn't worth the markup IMO.
 You'd be hard pressed to tell them apart at all.
 Even if one listens very critically to a top notch recording in a very quiet listening room utilizing excellent upstream electronics I doubt many listeners would pass a DBT with flying colors.They are that close.
  Quote:


 The difference are probably comparable to the difference between the RS-2 and RS-1. 
 

The difference is way smaller IMO.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love my SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro phones. I’ve spent so much time lately comparing the SR-007 to the new mk2 that I need to bring out my Lambda’s and do some more listening. I have 2 sets of Pro’s and they both sound great. I find them easy to listen to with most material especially with acoustic live recordings. The SR-Lambda probably has the more neutral tonal balance, but the Pro is a little more exciting to listen to. The bass seems deep and punchy without any overhang. When I use my SRM-007t amp most of the Lambda glare is tamed. I would like to hear your Pro’s compared to mine (both Pro’s are stock but have new earpads). I agree with you that the SR-Lambda is one of the better Lambda phones but never gets much press.

 AudioD_

 

The bass issue on the Pro's is fairly subtle but stands out in comparison to the other Lambda phones that all have a pretty boomy bass. I tend to classify the Pro's with the He90 as a very dynamic sounding stats mostly due to their bad bass response as every other Lambda does a better job controlling at it. It's still the rolled off midrange and lower treble that bothers me the most. Using a tube amp with the lambdas is mandatory and the Sr-Lambda shines on the bass heavy SRA-3S. 

 How is the SR-007 Mk2 business going? Did you get a new set from Stax or what?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir. All your raving about the SR-Lambda are not helping me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I really need to get a hold of one._

 

I'll keep my eyes open and see if I can't find one for a sane price.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll keep my eyes open and see if I can't find one for a sane price._

 

Excellent!
 I can an eye on eBay and the FS forum, but they rarely show up for a sane price.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How is the SR-007 Mk2 business going? Did you get a new set from Stax or what?_

 

I sent mine back a few days ago. Stax USA got their second production shipment yesterday. I hope to have them next week. I will keep you informed when they arrive.

 BTW what mods did you do to your SRM-T1. I just purchased a SRM-T1w and Lambda Nova Signatures and should have them next week also. Santa has been kind this year.

 AudioD


----------



## Faust2D

I was looking at that add on Agon last night, looked like a nice system.


----------



## naamanf

Question for those that have heard the 02s with the 007t and the Blue Hawaii. How much of an improvement is the BH? The 02s just seem to be missing transparency and presence my dynamics have. The 02s definitely have my dynamics beat in tonality but right now I just can't get over the lack of transparency.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for those that have heard the 02s with the 007t and the Blue Hawaii. How much of an improvement is the BH? The 02s just seem to be missing transparency and presence my dynamics have. The 02s definitely have my dynamics beat in tonality but right now I just can't get over the lack of transparency._

 

I think that the lack of transparency is the SRM-007t. I have a 007t and SRM717. The 717 is more extended at the extremes and has the power and voltage to properly drive the O2. The 007t is perfect for the Lambda series. The O2 is extremely transparent with the 717. You must remember that the O2's detail and transparency is subtle, not in your face like the Lambda series. I have never heard of a dynamic headphone even approaching the transparency of a good stat. If you are looking for a etched forward sound you might look at the 4070, 404 or Koss ESP-950 (with a Stax connector).

 AudioD


----------



## naamanf

I have been working on building a BH which is almost done. Hopefully that fixes the problem.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sent mine back a few days ago. Stax USA got their second production shipment yesterday. I hope to have them next week. I will keep you informed when they arrive._

 

I'm still holding out until all of this is sorted and there are other headphones to buy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW what mods did you do to your SRM-T1. I just purchased a SRM-T1w and Lambda Nova Signatures and should have them next week also. Santa has been kind this year.

 AudioD_

 

I replaced all connectors on the back with WBT rca sockets and Furutech IEC, installed a very nice and soft silver wire for the input wiring all insulated in cotton and more importantly, properly damped. Then I replaced the rest of the wiring with a thicker silver wire with large teflon tubing and I also bypassed the voltage selector switch. I'd like to replace the large electrolytics but space is rather limited and they still work fine. The left the coupling caps in place because they are perfect for the job and well chosen by Stax. I could have put in some AN silver caps but the proximity to the tubes makes it a pretty bad idea. 

 While the T1 and T1W share the same main PCB they are rather different and all the extra functionality takes its toll on the SQ. The signal is routed from PCB to PCB (though the input selector is a nifty thing) and it would be hard to reach the same level as a modded T1 without removing all of the PCB's and hardwire everything. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for those that have heard the 02s with the 007t and the Blue Hawaii. How much of an improvement is the BH? The 02s just seem to be missing transparency and presence my dynamics have. The 02s definitely have my dynamics beat in tonality but right now I just can't get over the lack of transparency._

 

The difference is rather large on every front but the lack of transparency could be the source or IC's as Stax is always supremely transparent. Try swapping in some new IC's and another source.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While the T1 and T1W share the same main PCB they are rather different and all the extra functionality takes its toll on the SQ. The signal is routed from PCB to PCB (though the input selector is a nifty thing) and it would be hard to reach the same level as a modded T1 without removing all of the PCB's and hardwire everything._

 

I sold my SRA-12s and will replace it with the SRM-T1w. I will use the passive preamp feature. I plan on making one of the inputs a direct input to the circuit board bypassing the input switch and volume control. I really don't understand the reason for the variable bias on one of the pro outputs.

 In the deal I also got a Lambda Nova Signature phones. Do these have the same driver as the 404?

 Thanks for your ideas.

 AudioD


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 The difference is rather large on every front but the lack of transparency could be the source or IC's as Stax is always supremely transparent. Try swapping in some new IC's and another source._

 


 Sometimes its hard to figure out what it is about stat sound that makes them work. I spent a week away from home and was listening to a portable cd player through the SR001 Mk2 portables and Sennheisser CX 300 IEM's on aircraft. The Senn's had pretty good detail and a good frequency response, probably better that the Stax in the sense of being better balanced. Generally I find smaller dynamics, such as earbuds and IEM's, closest in sound to stats. However they just didn't draw me into music like the stats did. 

 I was getting very fine audio experiences with the stats where I could have happily sat in the airport lounge listening all day. But I never got that with the Senns. You could hear all the details, but the beauty of the sound, espcially the sheen of the strings, the great transients such as guitar sounds the realness of voices, and the overall openess just never made it on the Senns. 

 I reminded me of my days as a kid, listening to classical music on my parents abysmal mono systems. I was able to get into the music but the listening was nothing like what I have been experiencing years later.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sold my SRA-12s and will replace it with the SRM-T1w. I will use the passive preamp feature. I plan on making one of the inputs a direct input to the circuit board bypassing the input switch and volume control. I really don't understand the reason for the variable bias on one of the pro outputs.

 In the deal I also got a Lambda Nova Signature phones. Do these have the same driver as the 404?

 Thanks for your ideas.

 AudioD_

 

The SRA-12S is on my list of stuff to buy but I think I'm just going to go nuts and buy the next SRA-14S that surfaces. 

 A direct input would be the way to. I'm going to do the same once I get my new source as it has a built in volume control. The variable bias does alter the sound and makes the phones a bit softer as well as being a must have accessory for those with older HE90's as they don't like the 580v bias. The only problem I see with it is that you have to unplug the phones and short out the bias pin to notice the difference. Stax could have put in a switch that would have turned off the bias and shorted the diaphragms to ground, a kind of a reset switch. 

 The Nova Signatures use 1.5um diaphragm and mesh stators. They look like the 404 but the color is a bit different and the earpads are also different. I'm not a great fan of the Nova Sigs as I think Stax went too far to tame the sometimes harsh sound of the original Signatures and didn't really get it right until the Airbow SR-SC1. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sometimes its hard to figure out what it is about stat sound that makes them work. I spent a week away from home and was listening to a portable cd player through the SR001 Mk2 portables and Sennheisser CX 300 IEM's on aircraft. The Senn's had pretty good detail and a good frequency response, probably better that the Stax in the sense of being better balanced. Generally I find smaller dynamics, such as earbuds and IEM's, closest in sound to stats. However they just didn't draw me into music like the stats did. 

 I was getting very fine audio experiences with the stats where I could have happily sat in the airport lounge listening all day. But I never got that with the Senns. You could hear all the details, but the beauty of the sound, espcially the sheen of the strings, the great transients such as guitar sounds the realness of voices, and the overall openess just never made it on the Senns. 

 I reminded me of my days as a kid, listening to classical music on my parents abysmal mono systems. I was able to get into the music but the listening was nothing like what I have been experiencing years later._

 

This is the main reason why I can't stand dynamics, be it speakers or phones. They present the sound from top to bottom but it lacks soul and drive. Some may want the technical sound of the dynamics for me stats make music and thats all that matters.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 This is the main reason why I can't stand dynamics, be it speakers or phones. They present the sound from top to bottom but it lacks soul and drive. Some may want the technical sound of the dynamics for me stats make music and thats all that matters._

 

I dunno. Maybe I'm only a part time 'stat wannabe but I get every bit as much enjoyment, soul and drive from the K1000 as I do with the SR-X. Admittedly the SR-X is not really deemed to be one of Staxes more euphoric efforts but that's probably why I like them so much. I like the 003 more than the Lambdas for the same reason, less diffuse, less ethereal and sweeter/more solid in the middle.

 The Lambdas I heard are decent phones but do not represent the sound of Stax I associate with so I guess I'm at odds with many here. I also like to feed mine with T-amps to give them even more bite and rough edges. I'm a 'stat masochist who tries to get away from much of what people praise as their greatest qualities. 

 I love what my 'stats do, but I make sure they do it my way.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is the main reason why I can't stand dynamics, be it speakers or phones. They present the sound from top to bottom but it lacks soul and drive. Some may want the technical sound of the dynamics for me stats make music and thats all that matters._

 

I'm with you all the way!


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love what my 'stats do, but I make sure they do it my way. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Do I hear Sinatra? 

 I see your point, though, and it's nice that Stax can satisfy even your unusual requirements. I think more people would have stats if they realized that they don't only just do the main thing that the Stax mafia is after, and that is their ace in the hole. I mean, would so many people like dynamics if they could only produce pounding, muddied bass and overextended transients?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Unless you like the color the 404 isn't worth the markup IMO.
 You'd be hard pressed to tell them apart at all.
 Even if one listens very critically to a top notch recording in a very quiet listening room utilizing excellent upstream electronics I doubt many listeners would pass a DBT with flying colors.They are that close.
 The difference is way smaller IMO._

 


 I see $100.00 difference in price at Audiocubes II betweent the 303 and 404. It depends on your budget but that doesn't seem like a lot to pay for a small upgrade. After all, this is, I believe the same cable as is used in the O2.

 I find that even if hard to differentiate at first listening, after experience, you are more likely to appreciate such differences.


----------



## John Buchanan

the SRA12s was absolutely jam packed with electronics and ran class A and hot. If you are buying one, everything inside will need a good cleaning to assist in ventilation.
 The SRA3s sounded better to me (valve 230v bias only)
 Never heard a 14s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dunno. Maybe I'm only a part time 'stat wannabe but I get every bit as much enjoyment, soul and drive from the K1000 as I do with the SR-X. Admittedly the SR-X is not really deemed to be one of Staxes more euphoric efforts but that's probably why I like them so much. I like the 003 more than the Lambdas for the same reason, less diffuse, less ethereal and sweeter/more solid in the middle.

 The Lambdas I heard are decent phones but do not represent the sound of Stax I associate with so I guess I'm at odds with many here. I also like to feed mine with T-amps to give them even more bite and rough edges. I'm a 'stat masochist who tries to get away from much of what people praise as their greatest qualities. 

 I love what my 'stats do, but I make sure they do it my way. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did own a K1000 some years ago , back when they were cheap, and I never quite understood what the fuss was about. I did run them with very impressive DIY SET gear I borrowed for the job but I never quite liked them but I'm used to be at odds with the general concession. The SR-X is a pretty sterile headphone and it was designed to be so much like the 4070 is today. They are all great headphones but simply can't reach the other, better Stax headphones. 

 Since we are dabbling in the subject of a Stax house sound then I think it has only been clearly defined with new Stax as almost all of the old Stax headphones were an experiment of some sort and the few that weren't do seem to hint at a house sound. We can say that Stax finally hit their stride in 1975 with the SR-X Mk3 and then continued with the Sr-Sigma in 1977 and Sr-Lambda in 1979. All the phones before that were really rooted in the original design with new materials and build techniques. Even though those first great headphones were experiments too, Stax had a clear view of where they wanted to go and that was closer to the original recording. This is clear in the Sigma Pro and Lambda Spirit, despite their faults, as they are among the few headphones designed not to be a testbed for some new diaphragm thickness or stator material but reuse older technology. They don't try to be something they are not and that design ethos come to fruition with the SR-007 as they finally can pull off a truly neutral headphone that can image better then anybody else. Some have a bigger soundstage but no other headphone can do layers and the pinpoint imaging. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm with you all the way!_

 

Great to hear I'm not alone.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I need to start building up my ESL collection


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I hear Sinatra? 

 I see your point, though, and it's nice that Stax can satisfy even your unusual requirements. I think more people would have stats if they realized that they don't only just do the main thing that the Stax mafia is after, and that is their ace in the hole. I mean, would so many people like dynamics if they could only produce pounding, muddied bass and overextended transients?_

 

I don't think that a lot of people who buy dynamics have even heard stats, certainly properly set up in a good system. It is not that easy to get good listening without actually buying. There is a shortage of good audio salons and many people are probably reluctant to enter those that are around because of their high-end trappings and general snootiness.

 My first experience was with Crown electrostatic speakers at an audio show. I had never heard of such things and had no idea what I was listening to except that they were large and flat. They blew everything away that I had heard at the show and it became obvious that there were better ways of reproducing sound than with cones. I ended up with stat phones because I couldn't afford the speakers although later I got a less expensive model.

 I have had Polk SDA dynamic speakers for some years now mainly because I find the SDA feature (which cancels cross-talk) very effective in giving a better defined stereo image and there are no stats which provide this feature.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see $100.00 difference in price at Audiocubes II betweent the 303 and 404. It depends on your budget but that doesn't seem like a lot to pay for a small upgrade. After all, this is, I believe the same cable as is used in the O2._

 

Even smaller price difference on PriceJapan.
 SR-303 = $321 | SR-404 = $377 -> only $56 price difference. Which imo are a small amount to pay for the improved cable. Same as used on the 4070 and SR-007.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I hear Sinatra? 

 I see your point, though, and it's nice that Stax can satisfy even your unusual requirements. I think more people would have stats if they realized that they don't only just do the main thing that the Stax mafia is after, and that is their ace in the hole. I mean, would so many people like dynamics if they could only produce pounding, muddied bass and overextended transients?_

 

What always makes me smile is the whine in the dynamic camp about the lack of choice when it comes to stats and that you are stuck to one technology. From where I'm sitting, typing this, I can see 22 world class headphones that sound very different from each other and all are electrostatic. 

 What we need is an amp that can drive all kinds of headphones from a single unit. It's relatively easy to do as a 10w P-P tube amp can drive stats directly from the tubes and dynamics through a transformer. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see $100.00 difference in price at Audiocubes II betweent the 303 and 404. It depends on your budget but that doesn't seem like a lot to pay for a small upgrade. After all, this is, I believe the same cable as is used in the O2.

 I find that even if hard to differentiate at first listening, after experience, you are more likely to appreciate such differences._

 

I did find there to be a bit of difference between them, with the 404 even smoother and more relaxed, more coherent even but whether that is worth 100$ is tough to answer. My usual answer is to buy the 303 and use the 100$ for some bullet plugs and good silver wire to make kick ass IC's. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the SRA12s was absolutely jam packed with electronics and ran class A and hot. If you are buying one, everthing inside will need a good claening to assist in ventiilation.
 The SRA3s sounded better to me (valve 230v bias only)
 Never heard a 14s._

 

I would never turn on any of these vintage Stax amps unless they've been stripped down and completely cleaned. The bare copper traces on the plug in cards have a few uM of oxidation on them as well as other nasty stuff. My interest in the SRA's is purely academic as I'd like to hear when Stax changed the sound signature of their amps and adapters to the leaner, more neutral sound of the late 70's that we still have today. 

 The SRA-3S is a wonderful amp with a great design though they did make a lot of sacrifices to make it so damn small.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From where I'm sitting, typing this,* in the fortress of solitude,* I can see 22 world class headphones that sound very different from each other and all are electrostatic. ._

 

Here is the first ever public photo of Spritzer in his listening room:






 The imaging of the headphones is so clear you can almost see faces in the ice-crystal columns of his palatial abode.


----------



## ueyteuor

so a friend came over one day, with his 300gb external hard drive with his trance collection on it.. he basically only likes trance and thinks anything else is "boring".. but anyways, hes putting all these trance cd's on my computer, filling up my hard drive, and i had my srs-2050 system on my desk, so i let him listen to it...

 he loved them... you can tell by his face. he was happy about the effects and sound and everything about the stax, he was like whoa, these sound pretty good. after he was done listening to them he was like "yeah, you should hear these one headphones at costco! they sound soooooo nice"

 but i ignored him.. he did like the stax though.... you could tell he was amazed. my little brother always laughs at me and my headphones, but when i let him listen, theres always a smile on his face.. he liked the sound a lot, but still not into headphones (not really into music yet i guess)


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Can you tell me if I would be okay to use a Stax Professional Headphone- such as the Stax Sigma Pros, Stax Omega two's or the Stax 4070 with a Stax SRDX Pro Portable Adapter???
 Is there any danger to damaging these fine Stax Headphones?
 Thanks Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the first ever public photo of Spritzer in his listening room:






 The imaging of the headphones is so clear you can almost see faces in the ice-crystal columns of his palatial abode._

 

Absolutely brilliant!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I've figured out how to store and preserve all these headphones then I'll post a large post about them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you tell me if I would be okay to use a Stax Professional Headphone- such as the Stax Sigma Pros, Stax Omega two's or the Stax 4070 with a Stax SRDX Pro Portable Adapter???
 Is there any danger to damaging these fine Stax Headphones?
 Thanks Scottsmrnyc_

 

They could only be damaged if the bias is to high or if the drive voltages exceed 1200v. They will be fine, if only a little underpowered.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did own a K1000 some years ago , back when they were cheap, and I never quite understood what the fuss was about. I did run them with very impressive DIY SET gear I borrowed for the job but I never quite liked them but I'm used to be at odds with the general concession. The SR-X is a pretty sterile headphone and it was designed to be so much like the 4070 is today. They are all great headphones but simply can't reach the other, better Stax headphones. 

 Since we are dabbling in the subject of a Stax house sound then I think it has only been clearly defined with new Stax as almost all of the old Stax headphones were an experiment of some sort and the few that weren't do seem to hint at a house sound. We can say that Stax finally hit their stride in 1975 with the SR-X Mk3 and then continued with the Sr-Sigma in 1977 and Sr-Lambda in 1979. All the phones before that were really rooted in the original design with new materials and build techniques. Even though those first great headphones were experiments too, Stax had a clear view of where they wanted to go and that was closer to the original recording. This is clear in the Sigma Pro and Lambda Spirit, despite their faults, as they are among the few headphones designed not to be a testbed for some new diaphragm thickness or stator material but reuse older technology. They don't try to be something they are not and that design ethos come to fruition with the SR-007 as they finally can pull off a truly neutral headphone that can image better then anybody else. Some have a bigger soundstage but no other headphone can do layers and the pinpoint imaging._

 

I still haven't had the chance to hear the Omegas yet so I reserve the right to change my mind when I do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambda I owned long enough to know it wasn't my sound. I loved them at the start but that wore off over time as the sound frustrated me. Enter the SR-X and I found what I was looking for, the K1000 has a similar overall signature which is why I love them as well. I can switch between them without interrupting my smile. I do still have 3 pairs of Staxes and am still a big Stat fan, just not in the same way others might be. 

 I'm not gonna get in to what is deemed sterile or neutral or whatever. I like how they sound, and that's all that matters to me. Whatever their failings are, I'm gloriously happy with them and there is no Lambda I would trade them with. I still want to hear the Omega and the SR-5 Gold and then will know if the SR-X is beaten for my tastes.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Nova Signatures use 1.5um diaphragm and mesh stators. They look like the 404 but the color is a bit different and the earpads are also different. I'm not a great fan of the Nova Sigs as I think Stax went too far to tame the sometimes harsh sound of the original Signatures and didn't really get it right until the Airbow SR-SC1. _

 

Are you sure about the mesh stators? The photos here make them look very much the same as the SR-404: ƒ‰ƒ€ƒ_ƒmƒoƒVƒOƒlƒ`ƒƒ[‚Ìƒy[ƒW

 Do you know if SR-404 are PCB? 

 I have disassembled a dead Signature driver once and the construction was as follows:

 Dust cover
 Rather thick and heavy gold plated copper (?) stator
 Polymer isolation layer attached to the stator on the inside
 Diaphragm


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you tell me if I would be okay to use a Stax Professional Headphone- such as the Stax Sigma Pros, Stax Omega two's or the Stax 4070 with a Stax SRDX Pro Portable Adapter???
 Is there any danger to damaging these fine Stax Headphones?_

 

It should be totally safe, as long as you don't overdrive the headspeakers.
 Don't expect miracles sound vise though...


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Thanks for the imformation. 
 About miracle sound, I have them hooked up to a 30 year old- 4 battery Sony Discman DT24. I also have the SRD X Pro hooked into the wall using it's adapter plug. I also have the SRD X non Pro as well. When using the wall outlet, the sound is very impressive. I am spending the rainy day in NYC to explore the sound of the SRD X pro via it's 8 batteries. I will keep you posted. Enjoy Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not gonna get in to what is deemed sterile or neutral or whatever. I like how they sound, and that's all that matters to me. Whatever their failings are, I'm gloriously happy with them and there is no Lambda I would trade them with. I still want to hear the Omega and the SR-5 Gold and then will know if the SR-X is beaten for my tastes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Lambda was the successor of the SR-X Mk3 and then the Omegas take an even larger leap in the same direction. You can mask how sterile the phones are by system matching but I don't do that as I'd like to know how they sound and not change them to suit me. I'm nuts though so don't listen to me. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure about the mesh stators? The photos here make them look very much the same as the SR-404: ƒ‰ƒ€ƒ_ƒmƒoƒVƒOƒlƒ`ƒƒ[‚Ìƒy[ƒW

 Do you know if SR-404 are PCB? 

 I have disassembled a dead Signature driver once and the construction was as follows:

 Dust cover
 Rather thick and heavy gold plated copper (?) stator
 Polymer isolation layer attached to the stator on the inside
 Diaphragm_

 

They are certainly not mesh as there are holes there and no support structure. I've never opened mine up as the pads are in perfect condition and impossible to replace. 

 I'm not sure what the 404 uses. I did remove the earpads on the SR-SC1 but was in such a hurry that I just stuck the new ones on without opening them up...


----------



## luvdunhill

spritzer:

 can you give a brief history of Stax cables, both the hardwire / removable found on the earspeakers and the extension cables? What types of wire is used and how many iterations are out there, etc...

 thanks!


----------



## fishski13

looking to buy some stats. with a Benchmark DAC1/Oppo for a source, Classic or Signature combo. the DAC1 has balanced outputs - is it worth it to spend the extra $$ for the Sig.?

 PACE


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer:

 can you give a brief history of Stax cables, both the hardwire / removable found on the earspeakers and the extension cables? What types of wire is used and how many iterations are out there, etc...

 thanks!_

 

I'm good but I'm not _that_ good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll give it a shot though. The same cable was used on the phones from 1960 and until 1979 when the introduced the first OFC ribbon cable. That was succeeded with the PC-OCC cable in 1987 but that one was only used on the TOTL designs. In 1993 they introduced the Wide PC-OCC cable on the SR-Ω which we still have today. All these cables are still in use as the 202 has the first one, 303 the PC-OCC one and the 404 and upwards sports the wide cable. 

 The extension cables were much the same, all round and OFC, until 1987 when the PC-OCC Signature was introduced but it was still round. That remained the TOTL until they released the new wide cables.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure about the mesh stators? The photos here make them look very much the same as the SR-404: ƒ‰ƒ€ƒ_ƒmƒoƒVƒOƒlƒ`ƒƒ[‚Ìƒy[ƒW

 Do you know if SR-404 are PCB? 

 I have disassembled a dead Signature driver once and the construction was as follows:

 Dust cover
 Rather thick and heavy gold plated copper (?) stator
 Polymer isolation layer attached to the stator on the inside
 Diaphragm_

 

This doesn't look like my 404 which seems to have only mesh. In this photo, I see what appear to be two layers a mesh and a perforated layer (copper?).


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm good but I'm not that good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll give it a shot though. The same cable was used on the phones from 1960 and until 1979 when the introduced the first OFC ribbon cable. That was succeeded with the PC-OCC cable in 1987 but that one was only used on the TOTL designs. In 1993 they introduced the Wide PC-OCC cable on the SR-Ω which we still have today. All these cables are still in use as the 202 has the first one, 303 the PC-OCC one and the 404 and upwards sports the wide cable. 

 The extension cables were much the same, all round and OFC, until 1987 when the PC-OCC Signature was introduced but it was still round. That remained the TOTL until they released the new wide cables._

 

this is what I expected. However, I had a feeling that there was more than one version of the cable used on the SR-007. I purchased a replacement SR-007 cable from Japan and am planning on putting it on my ESP-950 and just didn't know if there was more than one version...

 Thanks for the history lesson!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm good but I'm not that good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll give it a shot though. The same cable was used on the phones from 1960 and until 1979 when the introduced the first OFC ribbon cable. That was succeeded with the PC-OCC cable in 1987 but that one was only used on the TOTL designs. In 1993 they introduced the Wide PC-OCC cable on the SR-Ω which we still have today. All these cables are still in use as the 202 has the first one, 303 the PC-OCC one and the 404 and upwards sports the wide cable. 

 The extension cables were much the same, all round and OFC, until 1987 when the PC-OCC Signature was introduced but it was still round. That remained the TOTL until they released the new wide cables._

 

I used to think spritzer referenced the Stax History page for information. Nowadays, of course, I realise it's the other way around! LOL


----------



## John Buchanan

The first Lambdas and some of the later Sigma non pro shared a similar cable type. This was improved in the Lamba Signature and again in the Lambda Nova Signature, which had the same wide cable as used today on the TOTL lines.
 Sigmas appear to have been either issued with the round cable of the SRXMk3or the flat cables of the Lambda series.
 My Sigma is a hybrid - old non-pro body and 404 drivers and cables and sounds better than the non-pro IMHO. still have the original cables and drivers as well as a set of 202 drivers lol


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this is what I expected. However, I had a feeling that there was more than one version of the cable used on the SR-007. I purchased a replacement SR-007 cable from Japan and am planning on putting it on my ESP-950 and just didn't know if there was more than one version...

 Thanks for the history lesson!_

 

There are three (maybe four) different colors of the wide cable, black, brown and the washed out brown that is on the 4070, 404 and SR-007. They are all the same internally though. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used to think spritzer referenced the Stax History page for information. Nowadays, of course, I realise it's the other way around! LOL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What can I say... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The first Lambdas and some of the later Sigma non pro shared a similar cable type. This was improved in the Lamba Signature and again in the Lambda Nova Signature, which had the same wide cable as used today on the TOTL lines.
 Sigmas appear to have been either issued with the round cable of the SRXMk3or the flat cables of the Lambda series.
 My Sigma is a hybrid - old non-pro body and 404 drivers and cables and sounds better than the non-pro IMHO. still have the original cables and drivers as well as a set of 202 drivers lol_

 

I've never seen a Lambda with a cloth covered cable but the first Sigmas (1977-79) all had them. The first OFC ribbon cable was introduced with the Lambda so the Sigmas adopted it. I do find it off that the SR-X never got a cable upgrade as the Mk3 Pro had a 5 pin cloth covered cable as the SR-5 NB cable would have fit. I upgraded one of my SR-X to a Lambda cable and the effect is far from subtle. Add to the confusion that some SR-5 N and NB's were issued with either ribbon or cloth cables... Crazy Stax....


----------



## pdennis

Just won a nice-looking SR-X III and SRD-7 for $235.... which will be my first 'stats. I'm excited! Now I need to 1) find a decent DAC for my Macbook Pro and 2) figure out where I can place my (fan-cooled) amp so that its noise won't be obtrusive.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just won a nice-looking SR-X III and SRD-7 for $235.... which will be my first 'stats. I'm excited! Now I need to 1) find a decent DAC for my Macbook Pro and 2) figure out where I can place my (fan-cooled) amp so that its noise won't be obtrusive._

 

You're in for a treat as long as you don't expect huge bass


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're in for a treat as long as you don't expect huge bass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I listen to many, many kinds of music, but my headphone listening favors "classical" in the broadest sense of the word; I found the SR-X's reputation for accuracy and transparency throughout most of the audible frequency range to be very attractive. I admit, I'm slightly concerned about the supposedly lean bass response, but though I am a bass player I'm not a "bass head". Actually, few things tick me off more than bloated, one-note bass (in any genre of music), but I gather that that's rarely an issue with decent 'stats anyway.

 Has anyone here had good luck using a VST or audio unit EQ with their Stax?


----------



## ueyteuor

hey guys, anyone listen to an rs2 or rs1?? how do they compare to a srs2050 system?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ would it be feasible to rig the amplifier to re-charge the lithium batteries if it was plugged into an AC adapter?
_

 

It is doable. Lithium batterie's are actually very forgiving as long as you don't mess up, ie. over charge or over discharge. There is no weird requirement such as constant current etc for the NiCd or NiMH's. The problem is IF you do mess up, the lithium can give you spectacular results, like melt down or burst in flames or pop itself into pieces, while the Ni batteries just cook themself to a silent death.

 By the way, there already isn't enough spare room in the case for power caps, why would anybody want to adde an internal charging board?

 Updated the opamp rolling post (#4453) with impressions. The output cap testing has been started, different caps do make very (very) noticable differences. The final result will hopefully come out by the end of January (the current test result make me really have to order some Auri, kimber and Sonic caps......that will be a lot of $$ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ....... I need sponsers! anybody?)

 By the way, I just won the SR-005 on ebay? are you kidding me? are you guys all holding back so I can win that set so I can write a comparison review on my modded SR-001 vs. stock SR-005? Is that a conspiracy?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have fun


----------



## kpeezy

I have a Stax question and I'm sure this is as good a place to post as anywhere else. 

 What is the difference between the original SR-001 system and the SR-001 MKII? I'll be buying one (I found sellers for both) and I'm not sure what the differences between the two are. TIA


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Stax question and I'm sure this is as good a place to post as anywhere else. 

 What is the difference between the original SR-001 system and the SR-001 MKII? I'll be buying one (I found sellers for both) and I'm not sure what the differences between the two are. TIA 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The amp is similar but might have been upgraded internally but the real difference is in the phones. The original used a 2.5um diaphragm compared to the 1.5 in the Mk2.


----------



## kpeezy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The amp is similar but might have been upgraded internally but the real difference is in the phones. The original used a 2.5um diaphragm compared to the 1.5 in the Mk2._

 

Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there a general consensus as to which one sounds better?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used to think spritzer referenced the Stax History page for information. Nowadays, of course, I realise it's the other way around! LOL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It would be so much better for all of us if spritzer could also speak/read Japanese. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm willing to chip in for a Japanese language course for spritzer. For his graduation, he gets to take us on a Stax Tour in Japan.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The original used a 2.5um diaphragm compared to the 1.5 in the Mk2._

 

so the MKI must have more bass slam, right?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This doesn't look like my 404 which seems to have only mesh. In this photo, I see what appear to be two layers a mesh and a perforated layer (copper?)._

 

Yes it does! ;p Mesh is merely for protection so that one doesn't poke a hole in the dustcover - it is only on the side facing the ear. SR-404 driver looks the same before you glue it onto the baffle.

 What spritzer was talking about is mesh stators like on the SR-Omega.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there a general consensus as to which one sounds better?_

 

I don't remember any comparisons of the two but we could take it as a clue that the SRS-001 was the first product to be updated after new Stax was formed even though it was only two years old. I will buy a Mk1 set one of these days and report on the differences. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be so much better for all of us if spritzer could also speak/read Japanese. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm willing to chip in for a Japanese language course for spritzer. For his graduation, he gets to take us on a Stax Tour in Japan._

 

It would be cool to learn some Japanese but I'm simply far to impatient to study languages...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so the MKI must have more bass slam, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Could be but it will vary depending on how tight the diaphragm is. I've managed to kill the bass response on thicker diaphragms by mounting them under a lot of tension. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes it does! ;p Mesh is merely for protection so that one doesn't poke a hole in the dustcover - it is only on the side facing the ear. SR-404 driver looks the same before you glue it onto the baffle.

 What spritzer was talking about is mesh stators like on the SR-Omega._

 

All Lambdas have that mesh but I was indeed talking about the copper mesh stators used on the SR-Ω


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone here had good luck using a VST or audio unit EQ with their Stax?_

 

The SR-XIII take EQ extremely well. Just make sure that the additional EQ dosn't cause your amp to clip to soon. Don't push the EQ to hard, it will screw up the sound.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 By the way, I just won the SR-005 on ebay? are you kidding me? are you guys all holding back so I can win that set so I can write a comparison review on my modded SR-001 vs. stock SR-005? Is that a conspiracy?! 
 

Yeah, we thought you needed it more than we do.

  Quote:


 I don't remember any comparisons of the two but we could take it as a clue that the SRS-001 was the first product to be updated after new Stax was formed even though it was only two years old. I will buy a Mk1 set one of these days and report on the differences. 
 

 please do so I will know if I need a MKII as upgrade
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am particularly interested in the difference in soundstage


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ please do so I will know if I need a MKII as upgrade
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am particularly interested in the difference in soundstage_

 

I'll buy the next one I come across. I forgot to buy a set I found some weeks ago... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can be sure that the MkII is an upgrade but if you like the upgraded sound is a whole another matter.


----------



## ueyteuor

guys, has anyone/does anyone drive their stax system through an e-mu 0404 usb?? if so, how is it? or is an e-mu 0404 not a good match with stax?


----------



## John Buchanan

I've been doing a lot of listening to the Lambda Nova Signatures recently and have been really enjoying them - very comfortable (more so than the 007, less so than the Sigma) and more efficient than the Sigma 404s or the 007. Don't overlook these if they are up for sale - really good sound and on the 717. They should sound spectacular on the 007t which should dull a bit of the upper mid sparkle and be a good match efficiency wise.
 A lot of people can these, but they are excellent sounding.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I've joined team Stax via an SR-001 set...

 I'm really digging these headphones but I'm still fiddling around with them trying to find the right fit.

 Surprisingly my favorite genre using these so far is hip-hop which I didn't expect based on descriptions of the sound signature. Also really fast jazz sounds nice like Soil and Pimp. The separation is just too good.

 Now I just need to buy a nicer interconnect.


----------



## gimmish

OK, so after reading some posts about the benifits of using a pre-amp with Stax I put my old Audio Research LS-7 inline ahead of my srm T1. It really seemed to make a nice improvement with my O2's.I am still planning on buying a KGSS but until I do this setup seems liken a workable solution. The biggest improvement was in sound stage. Spritzer, can you please give me the specifics of your T1 mods. I wonder if I should spend the money on tube upgrades to the LS-7?


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surprisingly my favorite genre using these so far is hip-hop which I didn't expect based on descriptions of the sound signature._

 

Yes, the whole "stats have no bass" thing is total bollocks. Listening to trance a la PVD and Tiesto on my Lambdas is one of the most visceral headphone experiences I've had.


----------



## luvdunhill

hmmmm... I'm not so sure about the + being the front stator on the Koss ESP-950.. it sounds so... out of phase. And it actually sounds louder on the opposite side than in the ear cups. Can someone please verify I have the Stax pin-out correct?

 (looking into the) Koss female plug:

 1-2-3
 -4-5-

 1 L+
 2 B
 3 R+
 4 L-
 5 R-

 (looking into the) Stax male plug

 --5--
 1---4
 -2-3-

 1 L+
 2 B
 3 L-
 4 R-
 5 R+

 perhaps I just got confused somewhere in the converter... guess I won't have to cash in on the lifetime guarantee


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have an SRD-X with 1/4" headphone plug, for my SR-Lamdas. People are often giving me a hard time when I say this is only slightly better than my Dynamic phones. Apparently I'm "not experiencing the full potential of the Lambdas".

 In the dynamic phones world, you can get great sounding amps for under $350. I'm just not looking to get a $1000-$3000 STAX headphone/amp combo anytime soon. What would be a good but low cost home amplifier for the low bias SR-Lamdas I already have (where to buy/price)?


----------



## ueyteuor

guys, how much of a difference is there in performance between the srm-252 and a srm-323? anyone know???

 and whats a popular, good performing dac for stax?? i bought myself an e-mu 0404 usb, but i see no one with a stax uses it... is it no so good for stax or stats....?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an SRD-X with 1/4" headphone plug, for my SR-Lamdas. People are often giving me a hard time when I say this is only slightly better than my Dynamic phones. Apparently I'm "not experiencing the full potential of the Lambdas".

 In the dynamic phones world, you can get great sounding amps for under $350. I'm just not looking to get a $1000-$3000 STAX headphone/amp combo anytime soon. What would be a good but low cost home amplifier for the low bias SR-Lamdas I already have (where to buy/price)?_

 

I find the SRDX useful for what it is, a simple way to run stats from any cd player/amp/whatever with a headphone jack. You could probably improve the peformance of the amp noticeably with a better power supply, e.g. a $70.00 bench supply and also be able to use the supply with any electronic project you might have. I used an Elenco unit which output about 3 amps with variable voltage.

 One little trick is to separate the two power wires as they run to the amp from the power supply. Believe it or not it makes a noticeable difference per se. You may also find various proprietary power cords which do the same via different means.


----------



## Johnny Blue

I've just added a bench PS to my collection of gear for powering my SRM-212 (see earlier in this thread for discussions about same), and at the moment I am a bit disappointed.

 The Stax wallwart that comes with the (UK) 2020 system doesn't sound any worse than the bench PS, and is actually better! Not what I was expecting!

 On the other hand, I'm not sobbing yet at the possible waste of £35, because I was only connecting the bench PS to the SRM-212 with a skinny bit of wire and a 2 pin multi-plug adaptor (called X-Type here in the UK).

 I'm hoping if I address the connector issue with some soldered bananas (at the PS end), some decent cable and then a soldered 5.5mm x 2.1mm power plug at the SRM-212 end, things will swing round to the bench PS's favour.

 Any suggestions to add to edstrelow's?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an SRD-X with 1/4" headphone plug, for my SR-Lamdas. People are often giving me a hard time when I say this is only slightly better than my Dynamic phones. Apparently I'm "not experiencing the full potential of the Lambdas".

 In the dynamic phones world, you can get great sounding amps for under $350. I'm just not looking to get a $1000-$3000 STAX headphone/amp combo anytime soon. What would be a good but low cost home amplifier for the low bias SR-Lamdas I already have (where to buy/price)?_

 

I would look for a used SRM-1mk2 (used <$350) or SRM-1mk2 Pro (used <$500). Look in eBay and Audiogon. The Pro model has 1 low bias output and 1 high bias output. The non pro is low bias only and won't give you a upgrade path. The SRM-1mk2 Pro will even drive the SR-007 in a pinch. The SR-Lambda is one of the better Lambda's. Really! The SRM-1mk2 is one of the better Stax amps and would make a perfect combination.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmmm... I'm not so sure about the + being the front stator on the Koss ESP-950.. it sounds so... out of phase. And it actually sounds louder on the opposite side than in the ear cups. Can someone please verify I have the Stax pin-out correct?

 (looking into the) Koss female plug:

 1-2-3
 -4-5-

 1 L+
 2 B
 3 R+
 4 L-
 5 R-

 (looking into the) Stax male plug

 --5--
 1---4
 -2-3-

 1 L+
 2 B
 3 L-
 4 R-
 5 R+

 perhaps I just got confused somewhere in the converter... guess I won't have to cash in on the lifetime guarantee 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You have the channels reversed but that is the Stax pinout so it seems. I'm half a sleep so I might be missing something.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 've joined team Stax via an SR-001 set...

 I'm really digging these headphones but I'm still fiddling around with them trying to find the right fit.

 Surprisingly my favorite genre using these so far is hip-hop which I didn't expect based on descriptions of the sound signature. Also really fast jazz sounds nice like Soil and Pimp. The separation is just too good. 
 

Try to replace the standard earbuds with the earbuds of a cheap in-ear heaphones
 The fit will now be far less critical than before


----------



## Agnostic

Ok guys, I'm now also an official junior associate of the Stax Mafia (or more properly Yakuza, Stax being Japanese). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Today I received a pair of Lambdas with an SRD7-SB which I bought for 56 Euros (80 dollars). 

 They sound great, but I have a few questions:
 1. How do I see which model Lambda I have.
 2. The sound has a little bit of harshness in the treble, is there some way to tame this? (there used to be foam in the earcups which has totally disintegrated, maybe replacing it would help?)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Agnostic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok guys, I'm now also an official junior associate of the Stax Mafia (or more properly Yakuza, Stax being Japanese). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Today I received a pair of Lambdas with an SRD7-SB which I bought for 56 Euros (80 dollars). 

 They sound great, but I have a few questions:
 1. How do I see which model Lambda I have.
 2. The sound has a little bit of harshness in the treble, is there some way to tame this? (there used to be foam in the earcups which has totally disintegrated, maybe replacing it would help?)_

 

Congrats!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The labels are on the top of the earcups, one on each side. No markings on the metal plate, it is a SR-Lambda. Professional is the Pro, Signature, can be either a Nova or not but the color says it all. The only ones that don't have these markings are the Pro Classic as they have Left and Right markings. 

 The foam has very little effect on the sound but you could ask the local distributor about replacements. You would also need new earpads since the screws to open up the earcups are under them and they are glued on.


----------



## Agnostic

Thanks!
 Mine only have L/R and SR-Λ, I guess that means they are Pro-Classics? 
 At the moment the cleaned cloth headband is drying. I will have a longer listen later once I put the headband back together. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The foam on the back side of the driver is still completely intact, I was referring to the foam covering the drivers inside the earpads. Does that make a difference?


----------



## smeggy

Hey, nice price on them Agnostic. Even I's buy another set for that price.


----------



## Agnostic

Yeah, I got lucky. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The seller didn't seem to really be aware what they were worth. 

 They do have a little bit of damage, the SRD7 has some scratches on the faceplate and a slightly bent side panel, the Lambdas are fine except for the deteriotated foam and one earcup no longer being locked into the headband (the pen going into the headband is fine but the small locking pin that keeps it attached to the headband has broken off). Neither are a problem really.


----------



## smeggy

Pfft, minor issues, as long as they work well you're good. I don't generally care about cosmetics and minor breakages, Stax drivers generally are tough mothers and last forever. I hope you get much enjoyment from them, they're great phones, not my personal faves but that's neither here nor there. Great buy and enjoy the sonic wash


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Agnostic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!
 Mine only have L/R and SR-Λ, I guess that means they are Pro-Classics? 
 At the moment the cleaned cloth headband is drying. I will have a longer listen later once I put the headband back together. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The foam on the back side of the driver is still completely intact, I was referring to the foam covering the drivers inside the earpads. Does that make a difference?_

 

The they have the Lambda marking on the sliding part of the headbands, the L/R marking and no marking on the top of the earcups then it is an 6 pin SR-Lambda. No doubt about it. The Pro Classic has the Gamma arc so the are no L/R and SR-Λ markings.


----------



## Agnostic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The they have the Lambda marking on the sliding part of the headbands, the L/R marking and no marking on the top of the earcups then it is an 6 pin SR-Lambda. No doubt about it. The Pro Classic has the Gamma arc so the are no L/R and SR-Λ markings._

 

Thanks for the info. Then it has to be a SR-Lambda, it has six pins and all the charachteristics you describe. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have just been doing some more serious listening and damn do these things sound good!! Especially on acoustic or semi-acoustic music! There is so much air, space and detail there! My only small criticisms so far are a bit of sibilance on some tracks and they don't have much bass impact, but I can easily live with that for nearly all my music. They do go quite deep though.


----------



## audiod

I just got my replacement SR-007mk2. Out of the box they sound better than my first set after hundreds of hours of break-in. They have bass. I will let them break-in and give a prelim report soon.

 I also got my SRM-T1w and Lambda Nova Signatures. The T1 is in mint condition and the Lambda’s are mint but need new earpads (already ordered). There is a lot of room inside for mods. I looked at the block diagram in the manual and if I go in through the output jacks (balanced or unbalanced) it will bypass the input selector switch.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I'm loving the SR-001s I got recently but as a source my Kenwood player is too warm for it. Even EQ doesn't help all that much.

 Does anyone know an interconnect (affordable please) that's fairly bright that will balance it out a bit?


----------



## Duggeh

An interconnect cable will not change the fundamental sound of the SR-001 which is a slightly warm, full sound.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm loving the SR-001s I got recently but as a source my Kenwood player is too warm for it. Even EQ doesn't help all that much.

 Does anyone know an interconnect (affordable please) that's fairly bright that will balance it out a bit?_

 

tricky problem, and I doubt that any interconnect will have as drastic an impact as EQ. SR-001 owners, any ideas?


----------



## Faust2D

Try molibdenium interconnects, if you can find them. They work like EQ or filters and make everything sound bright and full. I have a few DIY RCA cables around my house and they change sound signature almost as much as EQ. But if EQ does not help in your case no cable will fix this for you.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm loving the SR-001s I got recently but as a source my Kenwood player is too warm for it. Even EQ doesn't help all that much.

 Does anyone know an interconnect (affordable please) that's fairly bright that will balance it out a bit?_

 

that probably has more to do with the generic aluminum electrolytic (I think it is a united chemicom) at the input. Change it to blackgates should help more than a IC change (only "should", since I haven't gotten my blackgates yet and don't know how they sound like). 

 Why use expensive interconnects when the AC audio signal has to go through a $0.10 aluminum cap (made for generic DC use) anyway?


----------



## Faust2D

Very true...


----------



## AudioCats

on the other hand, that Kenwood player probably use generic aluminum electrolytic for output too, that is not helping either. My Sony C601ES (now that is an ES series, not exactly a bottom line grade) had two 47uF/50V brown Elna as output caps, exactly the same standard type as what they used for power supplies through out the whole player......What were they thinking?? And they didn't even bother to at least add a couple poly caps for high frequency by-passing.... :mad


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm loving the SR-001s I got recently but as a source my Kenwood player is too warm for it. Even EQ doesn't help all that much.

 Does anyone know an interconnect (affordable please) that's fairly bright that will balance it out a bit?_

 

PM Barqy about one of his solid silver silk insulated cables. He can do them with RCA instead of 3.5mm like mine. Mine is fairly bright.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Yeah I guess you guys are right. 

 After experimenting more I think the sound signature of my Kenwood dap changes based on different volume levels. If I max out the volume on the Kenwood and then change the volume on the SR-001 unit it sounds quite a bit different than if I use a lower volume level on the kenwood and raise the volume on the SR-001 unit to compensate. 

 With all my other headphones the Kenwood sounds so much better than my iPhone but with the Stax system I prefer the harsher output of the iPhone. Maybe my ears just need to adjust.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the SRDX useful for what it is, a simple way to run stats from any cd player/amp/whatever with a headphone jack. You could probably improve the peformance of the amp noticeably with a better power supply, e.g. a $70.00 bench supply and also be able to use the supply with any electronic project you might have. I used an Elenco unit which output about 3 amps with variable voltage.

 One little trick is to separate the two power wires as they run to the amp from the power supply. Believe it or not it makes a noticeable difference per se. You may also find various proprietary power cords which do the same via different means._

 

I am currently using a $20 RadioShack 12v 1000Ma wallwart with negative center on the tip.

 I do have one of these $89 4.5amp 12-24v "regulated" power supplies at home, which has been used with an old laptop that was just retired last week. It will do 12v with the correct negative center tip: RadioShack.com - Power & Batteries: 80-Watt High-Power Universal AC Adapter for Notebook PCs 

 I also just bought a used SRM-1/Mk2 with lo and pro bias jacks... Just in case.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would look for a used SRM-1mk2 (used <$350) or SRM-1mk2 Pro (used <$500). Look in eBay and Audiogon. The Pro model has 1 low bias output and 1 high bias output. The non pro is low bias only and won't give you a upgrade path. The SRM-1mk2 Pro will even drive the SR-007 in a pinch. The SR-Lambda is one of the better Lambda's. Really! The SRM-1mk2 is one of the better Stax amps and would make a perfect combination._

 

Thanks,

 Found one of each, and the Pro unit was a head-fi member's for only a few more dollars. So, all I have to do now is wait for it to get here from Switzerland. It runs 110-117/220-240 so I'm okay there.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferrstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I suppose if there's a cheaper alternative out there then yeah, the ebay thing is a bit out of hand. The bottom line is that I bid an amount that would have allowed me to get a pair of Sigma Pro's, listen to them, and sell them again at little or no loss if I decided they weren't for me. Now that final price was a bit of a surprise to me... but I did sell a mint-in-box set of SR Sigmas a few weeks ago on Ebay and got quite a bit more than I thought I would for those. 



 That's good to hear. I do like my SR-Sigma's. Are those the same drivers as the SR-Lambda drivers? I'm starting to get quite a collection of normal-bias Staxes over here. Right now I have two pair of SR-Lambdas and one SR-Sigma. All of them sound pretty damn good to my ears!_

 

I found your BLOG via google, and enjoyed reading it. Somehow, I didn't realize that was you till tonight. 

 I bought some SR-Lambdas and SRD-X from plaidplatypus during the "Great Head-fi Outage of 2007". When I recently asked about a low cost upgrade to drive my SR-Lambdas, someone else suggested I upgrade from SRD-X to SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. I remembered your page and felt good about buying a used one, and wanted to give you some of the credit for helping me along.

 Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my replacement SR-007mk2. Out of the box they sound better than my first set after hundreds of hours of break-in. They have bass. I will let them break-in and give a prelim report soon._

 

That is some great news indeed. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also got my SRM-T1w and Lambda Nova Signatures. The T1 is in mint condition and the Lambda’s are mint but need new earpads (already ordered). There is a lot of room inside for mods. I looked at the block diagram in the manual and if I go in through the output jacks (balanced or unbalanced) it will bypass the input selector switch. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The T1W is one heck of an amp and I'm sad to see mine go but I don't have any use for it.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Well, I've tried using thicker connecting leads, between the bench PS I bought recently and my SRM-212, but the standard Stax wallwart definitely sounds better.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So it looks like I have wasted my money!

 There's one more straw I'm clutching at: when I was last messing about with power supplies for the SRM-212, I managed to blow its internal (soldered in) fuse. I asked here at the time about replacing the fuse, because it was rated at 125V and 1.5A, and I could only get one at 250V 1.6A, and whether it was the voltage or current that mattered.

 Received opinion here was that it was current that had to be matched, so I replaced the internal fuse with a 250V 1.6A one. Now, firstly the replacement fuse is physically bigger than the original (20mm x 5mm, instead of 16mm x 4mm), which made fitting it slightly awkward.

 Secondly, and more importantly, the actual fuse wire in the 250V 1.6A replacement is much THINNER than the original (at least half the thickness), suggesting I was wrong to surmise that it was only the current rating that was significant.

 So, anybody know where I can source (preferably here in the UK) a fuse that equates electrically to 125V and 1.5A? (If it was only 16mm x 4mm in size that would be a bonus!).

 I can't be the first person in the UK to blow a fuse on an SRM-212, can I? (But then again, perhaps other people would just take it back to the importer, which is not my style!)


----------



## 2deadeyes

Just wanted to check with the Stax crew...

 In your opinion, is this a good deal? Brand new Stax SR007MKII with SRM-007tII amp for $3100?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wanted to check with the Stax crew...

 In your opinion, is this a good deal? Brand new Stax SR007MKII with SRM-007tII amp for $3100?_

 

Yes, its a nice price..
 Its $3000 from PriceJapan (SR-007A = $1700, and SRM-007tA = $1300), and then you need a voltage converter in addition.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I've tried using thicker connecting leads, between the bench PS I bought recently and my SRM-212, but the standard Stax wallwart definitely sounds better.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So it looks like I have wasted my money!

 There's one more straw I'm clutching at: when I was last messing about with power supplies for the SRM-212, I managed to blow its internal (soldered in) fuse. I asked here at the time about replacing the fuse, because it was rated at 125V and 1.5A, and I could only get one at 250V 1.6A, and whether it was the voltage or current that mattered.

 Received opinion here was that it was current that had to be matched, so I replaced the internal fuse with a 250V 1.6A one. Now, firstly the replacement fuse is physically bigger than the original (20mm x 5mm, instead of 16mm x 4mm), which made fitting it slightly awkward.

 Secondly, and more importantly, the actual fuse wire in the 250V 1.6A replacement is much THINNER than the original (at least half the thickness), suggesting I was wrong to surmise that it was only the current rating that was significant.

 So, anybody know where I can source (preferably here in the UK) a fuse that equates electrically to 125V and 1.5A? (If it was only 16mm x 4mm in size that would be a bonus!).

 I can't be the first person in the UK to blow a fuse on an SRM-212, can I? (But then again, perhaps other people would just take it back to the importer, which is not my style!)_

 

I very much doubt that the fuse is the issue. The whole point of a fuse is to limit current and if it hasn't broken then it isn't the issue. You could also just jumper the fuse to remove it from the equation.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I very much doubt that the fuse is the issue. The whole point of a fuse is to limit current and if it hasn't broken then it isn't the issue. You could also just jumper the fuse to remove it from the equation._

 

You're right: the fuse isn't the issue, otherwise the Stax wallwart wouldn't actually sound better than the bench PS.

 However, I would like to get a fuse of similar rating to the Stax 125V 1.5A original that I blew. In my earlier post I wrote of how the replacement fuse (a 250V 1.6A) was actually thinner than the Stax original and I surmised that therefore it must be of a lower rating. But, on my way home this evening I popped into a local Linn/Naim dealer and he told me that the thickness of the wire gives no useful clue as to the rating of a fuse, because they could be made of different metals.

 So now I really am stumped. What would the nearest equivalent fuse to a 125V 1.5A at 250V be? 0.75A? 1.5A? 3A?

_Faits vos jeux..._


----------



## spritzer

The voltage doesn't matter except for the insulation of the fuse. The 125v fuses are for units with 125v input voltage or lower but those units need double the current compared to the 230v counterparts . Most manufactures just get by this by using a larger fuse then needed. Stax used here a 1.5A fuse for a 12v input so the voltage doesn't matter it iit is higher. You might have bought the wrong physical size though. There are many types of fuses beside the fast and slow blow types. The original didn't have a T somewhere in the name?


----------



## AudioCats

Are the SRM-212 and 252 any similar?


----------



## Supersonic99

Quote:


 but the standard Stax wallwart definitely sounds better. 
 

How can it be? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next year i want buy an Set 2050II from PriceJapan and would like to supply 
 the SRM-252II with an Labor power supply.

Labornetzteil / Labornetzgerät 0-15V 0-1A analog, linear geregelt RNG1501 / RNG-1501 101886
 It is an very good one.
 Are the STAX wallwart stabilized or not? 

 Maybe unstabilized are better for the 252II? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think stabilized and very clean power at 12V must be the best also for a little Stax.
 Now i am very anxious.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The voltage doesn't matter except for the insulation of the fuse. The 125v fuses are for units with 125v input voltage or lower but those units need double the current compared to the 230v counterparts . Most manufactures just get by this by using a larger fuse then needed. Stax used here a 1.5A fuse for a 12v input so the voltage doesn't matter it iit is higher. You might have bought the wrong physical size though. There are many types of fuses beside the fast and slow blow types. The original didn't have a T somewhere in the name?_

 

No, I think you're right. My thing about the fuse wire thickness is a red herring (i.e., irrelevant), as I was informed yesterday by my friendly local Linn/Naim dealer!

 I couldn't find a 16mm long fuse anywhere in the UK on the 'net, so settled for the 20mm which is readily available here in a wide range of current ratings. It fits, just not as neatly as the original, especially when that's compounded with my dreadful soldering skills!

 The only letters on the original fuse are 'NSF ECR', so I assumed it was a normal, quick-blow type.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Supersonic99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can it be? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next year i want buy an Set 2050II from PriceJapan and would like to supply 
 the SRM-252II with an Labor power supply.

Labornetzteil / Labornetzgerät 0-15V 0-1A analog, linear geregelt RNG1501 / RNG-1501 101886
 It is an very good one.
 Are the STAX wallwart stabilized or not? 

 Maybe unstabilized are better for the 252II? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think stabilized and very clean power at 12V must be the best also for a little Stax.
 Now i am very anxious._

 

Das ist aber billig, und sehr hubsch! Spritzer hatt freuer gesagt das 3A wird der minimum, darum hab Ich dieses gekauft (2A @ 20V = 3.3A @ 12V). Ich wird denken das reguliert (= stabilized) wird immer besser als unreguliert.

 Warum der Stax original trafo klingt besser als meine riesen gross PS hab Ich keine arnung!


----------



## d.phens

WTB a pair of stax headphone drivers (transducers)!

 I'm thinking about building a DIY pair of electrostats.
 I did post in For Sale Forums but since the outage both my thread and response of one headfier (I even forgot the name!) who offered me Lambda drivers are GONE.

 Please note that I will not have enough money for a longer time and now I have other priorities, but as my request isn't very usual I'm asking beforehand.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Das ist aber billig, und sehr hubsch! Spritzer hatt freuer gesagt das 3A wird der minimum, darum hab Ich dieses gekauft (2A @ 20V = 3.3A @ 12V). Ich wird denken das reguliert (= stabilized) wird immer besser als unreguliert.

 Warum der Stax original trafo klingt besser als meine riesen gross PS hab Ich keine arnung!
 __________________ 
 

Ich habe auch keine Ahnung (I always like showing off speaking multiple languages)
 just try another 12v larger than 400 mAh adaptor (just for testing). At my house I counted 10 in use already. even a switching 1,5A was sounding better than the standard Stax adaptor

 I am freed of this discomfort. because my SRM1/MK2 arrived today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 mint condition even the labels were still on it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ich habe auch keine Ahnung (I always like showing off speaking multiple languages)
 just try another 12v larger than 400 mAh adaptor (just for testing). At my house I counted 10 in use already. even a switching 1,5A was sounding better than the standard Stax adaptor

 I am freed of this discomfort. because my SRM1/MK2 arrived today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 mint condition even the labels were still on it.



_

 

My SRM-1/Mk2 should be here before the end of the year, bought from a fellow head-fi'er in Switzerland earlier in the week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have to stop buying STAX because it is using up my Edition 9 savings...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am freed of this discomfort. because my SRM1/MK2 arrived today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 mint condition even the labels were still on it.



_

 

Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRM-1/MK2 Pro is a really nice little amplifier. I love mine...


----------



## John Buchanan

It is a nice amp and runs the higher efficiency cans very well. Built like a tank and very reliable. Well done.
 Dilute vinegar will take off the finger grease on the front panel - no responsibility for any damage done however LOL.


----------



## Fungi

Haha, is that a Chinese water carton?


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Haha, is that a Chinese water carton? 
 

sort of; It is a carton with sake (japanese rice wine) which I use as a stand for my Stax headphones (felt somehow appropriate
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## Fungi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sort of; It is a carton with sake (japanese rice wine) which I use as a stand for my Stax headphones (felt somehow appropriate
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Wasn't sure if it was Chinese or Japanese since I didn't see any non-kanji on the carton


----------



## Elephas

A few Aristaeus photos for you, krmathis!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few Aristaeus photos for you, krmathis!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y10...ristaeus_1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y10...istaeu_amp.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y10...us_closeup.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y10...-OmegaHE90.jpg_

 

Shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause you know how much I love the look of the Aristaeus.

 Sadly its not a fully balanced construction, or else I would have bought one a year ago.
 Hopefully his Blue Hawaii SE will be just as beautiful. Cause then I am sold!


----------



## luvdunhill

does anyone know how long it takes for Koss to service headphones? I'm sending in my ESP-950 (hoping for a quick replace) before I sit down and mod them. I really want them to be back before our next meet...

 anyone?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone know how long it takes for Koss to service headphones? I'm sending in my ESP-950 (hoping for a quick replace) before I sit down and mod them. I really want them to be back before our next meet...

 anyone?_

 

I had my 950's replaced about a year ago. I took about 10 days including shipping time. They were fast. Good luck.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I've tried using thicker connecting leads, between the bench PS I bought recently and my SRM-212, but the standard Stax wallwart definitely sounds better.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So it looks like I have wasted my money!

 There's one more straw I'm clutching at: when I was last messing about with power supplies for the SRM-212, I managed to blow its internal (soldered in) fuse. I asked here at the time about replacing the fuse, because it was rated at 125V and 1.5A, and I could only get one at 250V 1.6A, and whether it was the voltage or current that mattered.

 Received opinion here was that it was current that had to be matched, so I replaced the internal fuse with a 250V 1.6A one. Now, firstly the replacement fuse is physically bigger than the original (20mm x 5mm, instead of 16mm x 4mm), which made fitting it slightly awkward.

 Secondly, and more importantly, the actual fuse wire in the 250V 1.6A replacement is much THINNER than the original (at least half the thickness), suggesting I was wrong to surmise that it was only the current rating that was significant.

 So, anybody know where I can source (preferably here in the UK) a fuse that equates electrically to 125V and 1.5A? (If it was only 16mm x 4mm in size that would be a bonus!).

 I can't be the first person in the UK to blow a fuse on an SRM-212, can I? (But then again, perhaps other people would just take it back to the importer, which is not my style!)_

 

Either the supplied Stax transformer is better than expected or the bench power supply is poorer. I would have expected a 2 amp supply to give some addiional dynamic punch to the sound.

 One other trick, aside from separating the power leads from the bench psu to the Stax amp, try rotating the bench psu, i.e. turn it in increments of 90 degrees. I was advised to do this when I ran a Koss amp this way and found one orientation that sounded better. Supposedly this took advantage of a spatially irregular pattern of em noise coming from the amp.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had my 950's replaced about a year ago. I took about 10 days including shipping time. They were fast. Good luck._

 

excellent! this is good news.

 Also, another quick question for you. Do you have any feeling whether the SR-007A/mk2 pads will fit on the SR-007? If so, can you describe the differences between the two?


----------



## ferraro25

Still enjoying the Stax SRS-2050II. Easily the best sound I have heard.

 The only problems I can find with the sound are that the bass could be more defined and the soundstage is too small and flat. Otherwise, I do not know how the sound could be improved. Very close to real in many instances.

 Just put together a new computer that is almost totally quiet. This has improved my headphone listening significantly. My last computer was very, very loud.

 I don't use Crystallizer much anymore, unless I think a track needs it.

 I really don't feel much like posting or reading here anymore since I have found what I want. I am done with looking for headphone-related stuff for a while.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_excellent! this is good news.

 Also, another quick question for you. Do you have any feeling whether the SR-007A/mk2 pads will fit on the SR-007? If so, can you describe the differences between the two?_

 

I looked at both earpads side by side. The Mk2 uses real leather and the 007 uses leatherette. They both seem to have the same shape but because the real leather is a thicker material it has a stiffer feel. The inside of the cups appear to be the same shape. The contact area with your ears is more rounded on the Mk2. The contact area on the 007 is flat. I'm pretty sure that the new Mk2 pads will fit on the 007. I will ask Stax USA next week.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that the new Mk2 pads will fit on the 007. I will ask Stax USA next week._

 

sweet! I'm all ears when you find out. Also, if you have a Stax person in the US to recommend, I need to track down a SR-007 leather headpad as well.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked at both earpads side by side. The Mk2 uses real leather and the 007 uses leatherette. They both seem to have the same shape but because the real leather is a thicker material it has a stiffer feel. The inside of the cups appear to be the same shape. The contact area with your ears is more rounded on the Mk2. The contact area on the 007 is flat. I'm pretty sure that the new Mk2 pads will fit on the 007. I will ask Stax USA next week._

 

According to Stax website the SR-007 pads are "Crafted from high quality natural leather for durability and comfort."


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Either the supplied Stax transformer is better than expected or the bench power supply is poorer. I would have expected a 2 amp supply to give some addiional dynamic punch to the sound._

 

I have to suspect the bench PS: it was relatively cheap, most other power supplies of 2 -2.5A are about £50-60 here in the UK, so this one at about half that price may have been a false economy (and this will not be the first time I've made this mistake!).

 And the sounds from the two transformers are quite close, and initially I did think the bench PS was slightly better, but the clincher came when I asked my wife to listen blind, and without my prejudices, and she preferred the Stax, it being exactly as you've suggested: more punch, more detail. After a few more listenings, I (very reluctantly) had to agree with her, hence my previous post.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One other trick, aside from separating the power leads from the bench psu to the Stax amp, try rotating the bench psu, i.e. turn it in increments of 90 degrees. I was advised to do this when I ran a Koss amp this way and found one orientation that sounded better. Supposedly this took advantage of a spatially irregular pattern of em noise coming from the amp._

 

Thanks for the suggestions: to be honest I haven't got as far as trying the separated cables, I was just using a much thicker, and shorter, cable than the horrible, skinny multiplug wire I was using at first, but the Stax was still (slightly, but noticably) better.

 I look forward to trying your new suggestion (and the Long Haired General will think I'm completely nuts!).

 And a Happy Christmas to all you Stax addicts out there! (I really appreciate this site/thread and the contributors to it: thank you one and all.)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ferraro25* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still enjoying the Stax SRS-2050II. Easily the best sound I have heard.

 The only problems I can find with the sound are that the bass could be more defined and the soundstage is too small and flat. Otherwise, I do not know how the sound could be improved. Very close to real in many instances._

 

Great to see that you are really enjoying the 2050II system.
 Its an awesome little system, which blast away most other systems in its price range. Imo, that is...

 You might want to look into a more powerful amplifier some day. I am quite sure it will help with your bass and soundstage "issues".
 Enjoy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked at both earpads side by side. The Mk2 uses real leather and the 007 uses leatherette. They both seem to have the same shape but because the real leather is a thicker material it has a stiffer feel. The inside of the cups appear to be the same shape. The contact area with your ears is more rounded on the Mk2. The contact area on the 007 is flat. I'm pretty sure that the new Mk2 pads will fit on the 007. I will ask Stax USA next week._

 

I am waiting for the final word about this one.
 Cause it they fit the SR-007 I am going to order a pair myself. Nice to have a spare, as the earpads for the SR-007BL is not easy to get a hold of.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I looked at both earpads side by side. The Mk2 uses real leather and the 007 uses leatherette. They both seem to have the same shape but because the real leather is a thicker material it has a stiffer feel. The inside of the cups appear to be the same shape. The contact area with your ears is more rounded on the Mk2. The contact area on the 007 is flat. I'm pretty sure that the new Mk2 pads will fit on the 007. I will ask Stax USA next week._

 

Happy Christmas to you and all Staxers. Please publish your findings re the ear pads.

 Tom


----------



## smeggy

I'm certainly enjoying my new pads, they completely transform the SR-X into another realm of comfort and also they sound awesome. I made a ring adapter for the pads, drilled the cups on the end so the Gamma headband fits properly. 

 Anyway, here's a pic.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm certainly enjoying my new pads, they completely transform the SR-X into another realm of comfort and also they sound awesome. I made a ring adapter for the pads, drilled the cups on the end so the Gamma headband fits properly. 

 Anyway, here's a pic.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/1563/dsc6999tp3.jpg




_

 

Thats some hybrid Stax 'phone. 
 * SR-Gamma headband
 * SR-X/MK3 housing, drivers and cable.
 * SR-007 earpads.

 They look comfortable, and probably great sounding as well. Since the SR-X/MK3 sound good in stock, and the improved earpads improve their lacking bass. Nice!


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats some hybrid Stax 'phone. 
 * SR-Gamma headband
 * SR-X/MK3 housing, drivers and cable.
 * SR-007 earpads.

 They look comfortable, and probably great sounding as well. Since the SR-X/MK3 sound good in stock, and the improved earpads improve their lacking bass. Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks!

 They are incredibly comfy, still lightweight but as you say, the bass is great now. They actually have impact and you can feel it. the little extra space from your ears gives it a more open sound, no so 'fired directly into your ears' and the pads angle the drivers. It's an amazing sound which has pushed the K1000s into second place. And I LOVE the K1000, that's how good these sound now. 

 Once I get the Gamma Pro drivers it'll be complete and hopefully even better sounding than now, which is pretty damned great already.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_According to Stax website the SR-007 pads are "Crafted from high quality natural leather for durability and comfort."_

 


 I always thought that they used real leather too. I was told recently that they are not. I will check with Stax USA.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought that they used real leather too. I was told recently that they are not. I will check with Stax USA._

 

The Stax lit for the SR-007 says Earpads: "Crafted from artificial leather for durabiltiy and comfort".

 The Stax lit for the SR-007mk2 says Earpads: "Real leather (sheep) used on a part coming into contact with the skin. High quality leather used for the surrounding part"


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!

 They are incredibly comfy, still lightweight but as you say, the bass is great now. They actually have impact and you can feel it. the little extra space from your ears gives it a more open sound, no so 'fired directly into your ears' and the pads angle the drivers. It's an amazing sound which has pushed the K1000s into second place. And I LOVE the K1000, that's how good these sound now._

 

I have a spare pair of SR-007 earpads laying around. So guess I have to do some experimenting myself one of these days..


----------



## 2deadeyes

I'm having a hard time deciding between SS or tube amplification for the O2s. I generally consider myself an SS guy (less hassles and concerns re microphonics vs. tubes), but being a noob to estats, I'm not sure if my preconceptions of SS vs. tube will apply here. I plan to go with one of Stax's drivers so for a noob to estats, which one?

 Also, has anyone compared the newer SRM-727II vs the old SRM-717?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm having a hard time deciding between SS or tube amplification for the O2s. I generally consider myself an SS guy (less hassles and concerns re microphonics vs. tubes), but being a noob to estats, I'm not sure if my preconceptions of SS vs. tube will apply here. I plan to go with one of Stax's drivers so for a noob to estats, which one?

 Also, has anyone compared the newer SRM-727II vs the old SRM-717?_

 

I have compared the 717, 727II & 007t. Search this thread, I did a review of them all driving the O2. The 717 came in first, 007t in second and the 727II in last.

 The O2 needs plenty of power and voltage. I also think that the O2 needs extension. The 717 has both along with a musical midrange. The 007t is great for the Lambda series but is a little weak for the O2 and doesn’t have the extension. The O2 can sound a little distant and rolled off when driven by the 007t. The 727II was a real disappointment. I think that Stax tried to make it sound like a tube amp and failed. It has a bland lifeless quality without any of the tube amp virtues. There are a number of people hear that like the O2 with the 717. I own both the 717 & 007t. I had a 727II but sold it after owning it less than 30 days. I hope this helps.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Thanks! That does place things into perspectives. Curious as to the type of sound you would opt for - accuracy vs. musicality?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have compared the 717, 727II & 007t. Search this thread, I did a review of them all driving the O2. The 717 came in first, 007t in second and the 727II in last.

 The O2 needs plenty of power and voltage. I also think that the O2 needs extension. The 717 has both along with a musical midrange. The 007t is great for the Lambda series but is a little weak for the O2 and doesn’t have the extension. The O2 can sound a little distant and rolled off when driven by the 007t. The 727II was a real disappointment. I think that Stax tried to make it sound like a tube amp and failed. It has a bland lifeless quality without any of the tube amp virtues. There are a number of people hear that like the O2 with the 717. I own both the 717 & 007t. I had a 727II but sold it after owning it less than 30 days. I hope this helps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! That does place things into perspectives. Curious as to the type of sound you would opt for - accuracy vs. musicality?_

 

Both! I want my system to be transparent to the original recording. I am not looking for color (of any type). That’s why I've used stats (both headphones and speakers) since the late 60's. If your system is accurate it should let the music pass through. I've owned many tube and SS amps (in my 2 channel audio system). As tube and SS amps get better the difference between them narrows.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both! I want my system to be transparent to the original recording. I am not looking for color (of any type). That’s why I've used stats (both headphones and speakers) since the late 60's. If your system is accurate it should let the music pass through. I've owned many tube and SS amps (in my 2 channel audio system). As tube and SS amps get better the difference between them narrows._

 

This is why we use stats. The distinction between musical and accurate doesn't have any meaning in the stat world since they can do both at the same time.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is why we use stats. The distinction between musical and accurate doesn't have any meaning in the stat world since they can do both at the same time._

 

Your so right!

 O2mk2 update. After about 40 hours of break-in they sound great. They are within 1db of the O2. They still need some break-in, but they have a sonic signature very similar to the O2. I'm wondering if my first set was defective or was it a first production run problem. That's a scary thought.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Hence my pursuit of an O2 system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I first heard it @ the recent NY meet, being driven by an ES-1. I was smitten by the sound.

 Even though it's available for cheaper by importing, I would rather prefer to purchase a pair from an authorized US distributor which includes a 2 yr warranty and avoid the hassle of potential shipments to Japan. Where did you purchase your O2MKII from?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your so right!

 O2mk2 update. After about 40 hours of break-in they sound great. They are within 1db of the O2. They still need some break-in, but they have a sonic signature very similar to the O2. I'm wondering if my first set was defective or was it a first production run problem. That's a scary thought._


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hence my pursuit of an O2 system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I first heard it @ the recent NY meet, being driven by an ES-1. I was smitten by the sound.

 Even though it's available for cheaper by importing, I would rather prefer to purchase a pair from an authorized US distributor which includes a 2 yr warranty and avoid the hassle of potential shipments to Japan. Where did you purchase your O2MKII from?_

 

I purchased from Yama's Enterprises (Stax USA distributor).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am currently using a $20 RadioShack 12v 1000Ma wallwart with negative center on the tip.

 I do have one of these $89 4.5amp 12-24v "regulated" power supplies at home, which has been used with an old laptop that was just retired last week. It will do 12v with the correct negative center tip: RadioShack.com - Power & Batteries: 80-Watt High-Power Universal AC Adapter for Notebook PCs 

 I also just bought a used SRM-1/Mk2 with lo and pro bias jacks... Just in case._

 

Well,

 I finally got around to powering my SRD-X with the higher-end RadioShack 4.5A 12v regulated power supply. (I was using the RadioShack 1000ma wallwart)

 It sounds like a different headphone amp now. Bass is more prominent, highs are more transparent, mids are more rich, and these phones have passed up my HD600 without a doubt now - Before I would go back and forth about which I liked better.

 I do have an issue that I've never mentioned before - noise in the SRD-X, which is unchanged with the power supply. But, the hum is only when the SRD-X is set towards a very low volume or very high volume setting. Since I got it, I almost always set the volume on the SRD-X in the middle where it is totally silent, and feed the SRD-X from my Darkvoice 336i headphone out. It just sounds best from my tube amp. 

 The first week I had the SRD-X and Lambdas, I tried feeding the SRD-X from the DAC line out while using the volume on the SRD-X and that didn't sound as good. Now I want to go back and see if the hum is from the tube amp, or some other item - so tomorrow will go all battery (source, dac, amp and srd-x), then try adding AC power to each item one at a time (and try different jacks).

 When I get the SRM-1 Mk2, I can connect it to the RCA pre-amp out of the Darkvoice tube amp and see how that sounds, if running it direct from the DAC doesn't suit me.

 Later!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS: only the 336i wont run on battery, so I'll be using the D1 internal amp, not just the DAC for my test.


----------



## pdennis

First off: finally got my Stax setup! Am I on the team now?

 Not that I've actually heard my SR-X 3's yet (still trying to sort out the wires 
 on the adaptor with help from ericj, any ideas?

 Anyways, I mainly wanted to a) brag and b) thank the regular Stax posters for all the great information. I spent many hours reading threads like this one before I decided to find some old Stax. I'll be sure to let y'all know when I've given them a good listenin' to.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well,

 I finally got around to powering my SRD-X with the higher-end RadioShack 4.5A 12v regulated power supply. (I was using the RadioShack 1000ma wallwart)

 It sounds like a different headphone amp now. Bass is more prominent, highs are more transparent, mids are more rich, and these phones have passed up my HD600 without a doubt now - Before I would go back and forth about which I liked better.

 I do have an issue that I've never mentioned before - noise in the SRD-X, which is unchanged with the power supply. But, the hum is only when the SRD-X is set towards a very low volume or very high volume setting. Since I got it, I almost always set the volume on the SRD-X in the middle where it is totally silent, and feed the SRD-X from my Darkvoice 336i headphone out. It just sounds best from my tube amp. 

 The first week I had the SRD-X and Lambdas, I tried feeding the SRD-X from the DAC line out while using the volume on the SRD-X and that didn't sound as good. Now I want to go back and see if the hum is from the tube amp, or some other item - so tomorrow will go all battery (source, dac, amp and srd-x), then try adding AC power to each item one at a time (and try different jacks).

 When I get the SRM-1 Mk2, I can connect it to the RCA pre-amp out of the Darkvoice tube amp and see how that sounds, if running it direct from the DAC doesn't suit me.

 Later!_

 

Glad to hear it works better with a better power supply. I have been using my SRD-P which is a variation of the SRDX-Pro but with two pro outlets and a line-in as opposed to headphone jack input of the original SRDX. I can't find it listed on the Stax history page. I have been fairly happy using it off the Stax transformer to run phones with a portable dvd player (does a great job on Dolby Headphone using the JVC adapter) but a little underpowered until fully warmed up. Maybe a beefier power supply would help here.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off: finally got my Stax setup! Am I on the team now?

 Not that I've actually heard my SR-X 3's yet (still trying to sort out the wires 
 on the adaptor with help from ericj, any ideas?

 Anyways, I mainly wanted to a) brag and b) thank the regular Stax posters for all the great information. I spent many hours reading threads like this one before I decided to find some old Stax. I'll be sure to let y'all know when I've given them a good listenin' to._

 

and you have one of the best.
 Welcome to team X


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off: finally got my Stax setup! Am I on the team now?

 Not that I've actually heard my SR-X 3's yet (still trying to sort out the wires 
 on the adaptor with help from ericj, any ideas?

 Anyways, I mainly wanted to a) brag and b) thank the regular Stax posters for all the great information. I spent many hours reading threads like this one before I decided to find some old Stax. I'll be sure to let y'all know when I've given them a good listenin' to._

 

Congratulations, and welcome to the Team! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-X/MK3 is a great little vintage headphone. I am quite sure you will be in love...

 You/We just have to sort the adapter wiring. I am heading over to see if I can help.


----------



## spritzer

The Unofficial Stax page has some pictures of the SR-007A. I think I might prefer the silver look...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Unofficial Stax page has some pictures of the SR-007A. I think I might prefer the silver look... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The SR-007A sure looks great.
 Me personally prefer the look of the SR-007mk2, over the SR-007A. Maybe because it looks more different compared to my current SR-007BL. Hmmm...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007A sure looks great.
 Me personally prefer the look of the SR-007mk2, over the SR-007A. Maybe because it looks more different compared to my current SR-007BL. Hmmm... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I like the look of my SR-007mk2 (black) but not as much as my SR-007BL. The 007BL looks better with my SRM-007t and SRM-717 (gold finish). The SR-007A dosn't match anything I have. I do not like the silver finish on the new Stax amps. 

 Anyway my replacement 007mk2's are breaking in nicely.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-007A does match my Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 though I'm sure it will end up with which is cheaper.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Now that I've seen more detailed pics of the silver finish, I'm opting more towards it than the black finish. Any chance Stax USA may get this finish?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've seen more detailed pics of the silver finish, I'm opting more towards it than the black finish. Any chance Stax USA may get this finish?_

 

There is no chance for now at least that these will be sold out of Japan. Stax is securing the distributor network and this is a good way to clearly separate gray market imports. There is also a cultural factors here as silver gear sells badly in the US while black units don't sell in Japan. Weird but true...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've seen more detailed pics of the silver finish, I'm opting more towards it than the black finish. Any chance Stax USA may get this finish?_

 

Stax USA should have the silver 30 days after the release in Japan.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax USA should have the silver 30 days after the release in Japan._

 

This is news to me. I had heard that the silver won't be avaialble in Europe and the black model will not be released to the Japanese dealers. Do you know if it will be called the Mk2 or A?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax USA should have the silver 30 days after the release in Japan._

 

That's awesome news! Will it be available only through Stax USA or both authorized distributors & Stax USA?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Unofficial Stax page has some pictures of the SR-007A. I think I might prefer the silver look... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

My SR-007 has a beaded (flat) finish. My SR-007mk2 has a brushed finish. When I look at the pictures on the unofficial Stax site showing the new SR-007mk2 in silver, it looks like a beaded finish. I don’t understand why Stax would use a different finish for black and silver. I think that the black would look better with the beaded finish.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007 has a beaded (flat) finish. My SR-007mk2 has a brushed finish. When I look at the pictures on the unofficial Stax site showing the new SR-007mk2 in silver, it looks like a beaded finish. I don’t understand why Stax would use a different finish for black and silver. I think that the black would look better with the beaded finish._

 

Hmmm that is something I didn't notice. I thought the finish would be same as on the amps...


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway my replacement 007mk2's are breaking in nicely._

 

Have you noticed any improvement in sound when compared to the original SR-007? My understanding is that the drivers are the same, and there are some very minor differences in other parts (connectors, paint, earpad material) which shouldn't cause a noticeable difference in sound.


----------



## pdennis

Woooooooooo!

 It's working! It sounds great! Yes!

 I started out listening to Andrew Manze play the Biber Rosary Sonatas, though I had just started the second movement when I had to listen to some other stuff just to see how it sounded with other music. So then I had Bryan Sutton and Doc Watson here playing Whiskey Before Breakfast for me, and THAT put me in a great mood. Now I'm listening to the Theater of Voices singing Arvo Pärt's "De Profundis", and am hearing how great the SRX-3 sounds with choral music. I'm one happy camper... and, probably because my main cans up to this point were Grado SR-60s, I don't even feel like I'm missing out on bass.

 The only problem now is that my amp is fan-cooled... it's buried under my bed (with a ventilation corridor of course), but it's still just audible. Oh well, I'll figure that out later.

 Oh that sounds gooooooood.


----------



## pdennis

Whoa... transients.


----------



## Downrange

Auidod, please share your impressions the Mk IIs as soon as you can. Nice to see the Stax thread has been going fine while I've been away a few months.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

HI OUT THERE, 
 Does anyone have any impressions of the STAX 4070s. I heard them at Headfest 2007 in San Jose earlier this year. How would you say they compare to the Stax Omega two's? 

 Thanks for your information. 
 Scottsrmnyc


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you noticed any improvement in sound when compared to the original SR-007? My understanding is that the drivers are the same, and there are some very minor differences in other parts (connectors, paint, earpad material) which shouldn't cause a noticeable difference in sound._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Auidod, please share your impressions the Mk IIs as soon as you can. Nice to see the Stax thread has been going fine while I've been away a few months._

 

My SR-007mk2’s are breaking in nicely. The SR-007 still sound better in many ways (punchy deep bass, high frequency detail and air). The Mk2 still need some break-in. The real deep bass is a little thin, the midbass and lower midrange is a little thick. This is what I expect in the phone that is not fully broken in. The Mk2 is within 1 db of the 007 (my first Mk2 was down by 3 db and never sounded good). My replacement is from Stax’s second production run. Stax USA claims that the new Mk2 could take 200 hours before being fully broken in. I’m not there yet. Stay tuned…


----------



## naamanf

Another Blue Hawaii is born!






 Just finished her up. Not much to look at yet but it sounds really good. Much better than the 007T. I built it all while stationed here in Iraq on my little desk. Uses pretty much the same layout as the standard Headamp BH. Volume is done with a balanced pair of Twister Pear Joshua Trees. I have plans on doing a nice koa front panel and tube accents to go with the Blue Hawaii theme. Also need to get some tubes for it now. It has the Groove Tubes XF2s which as far as I can tell don't sound that bad. Wonder how much better it will get with some real Mullard XF2s? OR XF1s?

 Big thanks to Kevin, Al, Marc, and Justin.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HI OUT THERE, 
 Does anyone have any impressions of the STAX 4070s. I heard them at Headfest 2007 in San Jose earlier this year. How would you say they compare to the Stax Omega two's? 

 Thanks for your information. 
 Scottsrmnyc_

 

There is a lot of information on this here but the summary is that while the 4070 is really good it doesn't come close to the SR-007 in any way, bass, midrange, treble, soundstage, detail, refinement etc. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007mk2’s are breaking in nicely. The SR-007 still sound better in many ways (punchy deep bass, high frequency detail and air). The Mk2 still need some break-in. The real deep bass is a little thin, the midbass and lower midrange is a little thick. This is what I expect in the phone that is not fully broken in. The Mk2 is within 1 db of the 007 (my first Mk2 was down by 3 db and never sounded good). My replacement is from Stax’s second production run. Stax USA claims that the new Mk2 could take 200 hours before being fully broken in. I’m not there yet. Stay tuned…_

 

Damn I need a SR-007A now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Blue Hawaii is born!

 Just finished her up. Not much to look at yet but it sounds really good. Much better than the 007T. I built it all while stationed here in Iraq on my little desk. Uses pretty much the same layout as the standard Headamp BH. Volume is done with a balanced pair of Twister Pear Joshua Trees. I have plans on doing a nice koa front panel and tube accents to go with the Blue Hawaii theme. Also need to get some tubes for it now. It has the Groove Tubes XF2s which as far as I can tell don't sound that bad. Wonder how much better it will get with some real Mullard XF2s? OR XF1s?

 Big thanks to Kevin, Al, Marc, and Justin._

 

Looks great and trust me... the Mullard tubes make it sing like there is no tomorrow... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The difference is huge.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Blue Hawaii is born!

 Just finished her up. Not much to look at yet but it sounds really good. Much better than the 007T. I built it all while stationed here in Iraq on my little desk. Uses pretty much the same layout as the standard Headamp BH. Volume is done with a balanced pair of Twister Pear Joshua Trees. I have plans on doing a nice koa front panel and tube accents to go with the Blue Hawaii theme. Also need to get some tubes for it now. It has the Groove Tubes XF2s which as far as I can tell don't sound that bad. Wonder how much better it will get with some real Mullard XF2s? OR XF1s?

 Big thanks to Kevin, Al, Marc, and Justin._

 


 Hey Naaman,
 I'm really glad that you got that amp running. Great to hear that my old O2's now sound much better than before with the 007t. I really wasn't impressed at all with the O2/007t combo - refined allright but dull and lifeless. 
 Happy listening to you and have fun tube rolling!


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Looks great and trust me... the Mullard tubes make it sing like there is no tomorrow... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The difference is huge._

 

Any suggestions on where to get a quad and what to look for?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Naaman,
 I'm really glad that you got that amp running. Great to hear that my old O2's now sound much better than before with the 007t. I really wasn't impressed at all with the O2/007t combo - refined allright but dull and lifeless. 
 Happy listening to you and have fun tube rolling!_

 

Thanks Bill. Definitely a step up with the BH.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007mk2’s are breaking in nicely. The SR-007 still sound better in many ways (punchy deep bass, high frequency detail and air). The Mk2 still need some break-in. The real deep bass is a little thin, the midbass and lower midrange is a little thick. This is what I expect in the phone that is not fully broken in. The Mk2 is within 1 db of the 007 (my first Mk2 was down by 3 db and never sounded good). My replacement is from Stax’s second production run. Stax USA claims that the new Mk2 could take 200 hours before being fully broken in. I’m not there yet. Stay tuned…_

 

Hmmm... This doesn't sound all that promising to me...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm... This doesn't sound all that promising to me..._

 

I've owned 3 sets of SR-007's, 2 used and one I purchased new. The new one took a long time to break in and match the sound of the already broken in sets. Even not fully broken in the mk2 still sounds better than any other non Omega headphone that I've heard. At the rate that they are improving I expect them to be at the 007 level in a few days and hopefully beyond.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any suggestions on where to get a quad and what to look for?_

 

You can get lucky on eBay but it's better to buy from some reputable seller. I don't know of anybody that has XF2's in stock but you can try contacting the big dealers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've owned 3 sets of SR-007's, 2 used and one I purchased new. The new one took a long time to break in and match the sound of the already broken in sets. Even not fully broken in the mk2 still sounds better than any other non Omega headphone that I've heard. At the rate that they are improving I expect them to be at the 007 level in a few days and hopefully beyond._

 

The SR-007 does indeed need a lot of time to break in so it will continue to improve.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any suggestions on where to get a quad and what to look for?_

 

I'm with Spritzer - mine have all come a pair at a time, and it is just eternal vigilance. You might also look at the SED (Winged C), like these,which are reasonable, and possibly the best current production tubes out there. I also am curious about the Tung-Sol reissues, but no firsthand knowledge.

 Hope you got the bias voltage figured out - but she looks beautiful. I am curious about the Joshua Tree, though the Goldpoints serve me well.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Blue Hawaii is born!


 Just finished her up. Not much to look at yet but it sounds really good. Much better than the 007T. I built it all while stationed here in Iraq on my little desk. Uses pretty much the same layout as the standard Headamp BH. Volume is done with a balanced pair of Twister Pear Joshua Trees. I have plans on doing a nice koa front panel and tube accents to go with the Blue Hawaii theme. Also need to get some tubes for it now. It has the Groove Tubes XF2s which as far as I can tell don't sound that bad. Wonder how much better it will get with some real Mullard XF2s? OR XF1s?

 Big thanks to Kevin, Al, Marc, and Justin._

 

Nice! I'm planning on building one this summer. Could you give a brief summery on what was involved such as where you got the boards chassis parts etc. I think I've read all the posts and archives regarding the BH but those are pretty old so any obstacles that you encountered building one now would be greatly appreciated. I'd really like to know what it was like to source all the parts etc. while being stationed in Iraq. A buddy of mine has been there on and off for a few years retrofitting the Bradleys (he works for FMC) and the stories he tells,.. whew!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woooooooooo!

 It's working! It sounds great! Yes!_

 

Great to see that you finally got the SRD-7 hooked up, and that you like what you hear through the SR-X/MK3. Its certainly a nice system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HI OUT THERE, 
 Does anyone have any impressions of the STAX 4070s. I heard them at Headfest 2007 in San Jose earlier this year. How would you say they compare to the Stax Omega two's? 

 Thanks for your information. 
 Scottsrmnyc_

 

There are lots of information about the 4070 (versus the SR-007 and other 'phones) on the forum. Posted by Carl, Spritzer, myself, and others.
 The 4070 is a great headphone. But its not quite up there with the SR-007 in any way, except for noise isolation.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Blue Hawaii is born!




_

 

Looks great, and I am sure it sounds great as well.
 I am *very* envious on people will skill to build one of their own. Wish I did!


----------



## smeggy

Damn that looks sweet! Nice job.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hope you got the bias voltage figured out - but she looks beautiful. I am curious about the Joshua Tree, though the Goldpoints serve me well._

 

I was reading the bias at the wrong point. Once I had the right one it biased just fine. Actually the entire thing work perfectly from the get go. Definitely a relief when working on it for so long. Speaking of, what are others biasing theirs to for 02s? Mine is currently at 560v. 

 The JT seems to work pretty good. There are 128 steps so it provides a good smooth volume progression. Plus there is only one volume knob to adjust. 

 I do plan on removing it when Twisted Pear comes out with their Uber controller. Then all volume control will be done digitally at the DAC. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! I'm planning on building one this summer. Could you give a brief summery on what was involved such as where you got the boards chassis parts etc. I think I've read all the posts and archives regarding the BH but those are pretty old so any obstacles that you encountered building one now would be greatly appreciated. I'd really like to know what it was like to source all the parts etc. while being stationed in Iraq. A buddy of mine has been there on and off for a few years retrofitting the Bradleys (he works for FMC) and the stories he tells,.. whew!_

 

The parts that took the longest and most emails to get are the transformer from Victoria Magnetics and the heat sinks from Conrad. Get those ordered first. The second hardest are the dual input JFETs and the 2SA1968 transistors. They all can be bought at BDENT. Just have to wait for them to be in stock if they are out. Everything else is easy to get. I had 4PCB.COM do the boards. Very easy to do business with and fast. Everything else came from either Mouser or Digikey. Case is a standard Par Metal. If I was home I would have just built my own case. 

 Make sure you read the Headwize BH page.


----------



## 88Sound

Quote:


 Originally Posted by audiod 
 My SR-007mk2’s are breaking in nicely. The SR-007 still sound better in many ways (punchy deep bass, high frequency detail and air). The Mk2 still need some break-in. The real deep bass is a little thin, the midbass and lower midrange is a little thick. This is what I expect in the phone that is not fully broken in. The Mk2 is within 1 db of the 007 (my first Mk2 was down by 3 db and never sounded good). My replacement is from Stax’s second production run. Stax USA claims that the new Mk2 could take 200 hours before being fully broken in. I’m not there yet. Stay tuned… 
 

To Recap: Ive been listening to the SR007 for several years until the right channel started to lose volume, I purchased the SR007 mk2 and sent the original for repair. My initial assesment of the mk2 was more bass, no fart, and more impact than the original.

 The mk2's have about 50 hours of listening and hundreds of hours on a bias charge (always on bias). Now that the original is back from the Stax hospital with new drivers I was going to say the old SR007 sounds more transparent than the mk2 but audiod has provided a better explanation and this is exactly what I'm hearing also.

 I hope some additional break-in of the mk2 will get rid of that midrange 'thickness'. The bass on the original is deeper and cleaner than the mk2 at this point. The mk2 bass is fuzzy by comparison.

 Both great phones, but the transparent air and cleaness of the original is much preferred at this point.


----------



## spritzer

I wanted to revisit the Stax wall wart PSU issue. Since I'm going to spend some time with my new SRD-X in the computer setup I needed another 12v wallwart. My two bench PSU's are in use so I searched and found an old Cambridge Soundworks 18VA unit and it is a pretty drastic improvement on the standard 12VA unit I used before. This is on the SRM-Xh driving the SR-X Mk3 Pro. The soundstage is bigger, bas is deeper and more controlled and there is a certain feeling of ease now you get when amps are well fed. This mirrors my findings with the bench PSU so you should hear an improvement with a bigger PSU but there are no sure things in this world. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To Recap: Ive been listening to the SR007 for several years until the right channel started to lose volume, I purchased the SR007 mk2 and sent the original for repair. My initial assesment of the mk2 was more bass, no fart, and more impact than the original.

 The mk2's have about 50 hours of listening and hundreds of hours on a bias charge (always on bias). Now that the original is back from the Stax hospital with new drivers I was going to say the old SR007 sounds more transparent than the mk2 but audiod has provided a better explanation and this is exactly what I'm hearing also.

 I hope some additional break-in of the mk2 will get rid of that midrange 'thickness'. The bass on the original is deeper and cleaner than the mk2 at this point. The mk2 bass is fuzzy by comparison.

 Both great phones, but the transparent air and cleaness of the original is much preferred at this point._

 

Could it be that the drivers are at a different angle on these two phones as that will dramatically alter the midbass. Could be something to look into.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wanted to revisit the Stax wall wart PSU issue. Since I'm going to spend some time with my new SRD-X in the computer setup I needed another 12v wallwart. My two bench PSU's are in use so I searched and found an old Cambridge Soundworks 18VA unit and it is a pretty drastic improvement on the standard 12VA unit I used before. This is on the SRM-Xh driving the SR-X Mk3 Pro. The soundstage is bigger, bas is deeper and more controlled and there is a certain feeling of ease now you get when amps are well fed. This mirrors my findings with the bench PSU so you should hear an improvement with a bigger PSU but there are no sure things in this world. _

 

Does 12v and 12VA mean the same, i.e. is the 18VA an 18v or 18 volt? Can you run a 12 volt SRD-X with 18 volts PSU? My PSU will do anything from 12 volts to 24 volts in 1 volt increments, is large and regulated, and supplies up to 4.5amps.

 My recent PSU experience: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...ml#post3564035

  Quote:


 I finally got around to powering my SRD-X with the higher-end RadioShack 4.5A 12v regulated power supply. (I was using the RadioShack 1000ma wallwart)

 It sounds like a *different headphone amp now. Bass is more prominent, highs are more transparent, mids are more rich*, and these phones have passed up my HD600 without a doubt now - Before, I would go back and forth about which I liked better.

 I do have an issue that I've never mentioned before - *noise* in the SRD-X, *which is unchanged with the power supply*. But, the *hum* is only when the SRD-X is set towards a very low volume or very high volume setting. Since I got it, I almost always set the volume on the SRD-X in the middle where it is totally silent, and feed the SRD-X from my Darkvoice 336i headphone out. It just sounds best from my tube amp. 

 The first week I had the SRD-X and Lambdas, I tried feeding the SRD-X from the DAC line out while using the volume on the SRD-X and that didn't sound as good. Now I want to go back and see if the hum is from the tube amp, or some other item - so tomorrow will go all battery (source, dac, amp and srd-x), then try adding AC power to each item one at a time (and try different jacks).

 When I get the SRM-1 Mk2, I can connect it to the RCA pre-amp out of the Darkvoice tube amp and see how that sounds, if running it direct from the DAC doesn't suit me. 
 

no SRM-1 Mk2 yet


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does 12v and 12VA mean the same, i.e. is the 18VA an 18v or 18 volt? Can you run a 12 volt SRD-X with 18 volts PSU? My PSU will do anything from 12 volts to 24 volts in 1 volt increments, is large and regulated, and supplies up to 4.5amps._

 

18VA is 12v@1.5A in this case. Though the Stax amps and adapters can take a little more then 12v, 18v is way too high.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *88Sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mk2's have about 50 hours of listening and hundreds of hours on a bias charge (always on bias). Now that the original is back from the Stax hospital with new drivers I was going to say the old SR007 sounds more transparent than the mk2 but audiod has provided a better explanation and this is exactly what I'm hearing also.

 I hope some additional break-in of the mk2 will get rid of that midrange 'thickness'. The bass on the original is deeper and cleaner than the mk2 at this point. The mk2 bass is fuzzy by comparison.

 Both great phones, but the transparent air and cleaness of the original is much preferred at this point._

 

Why would you need to break in the mk2, but not the originals with the new drivers? It seems like Stax screwed up something with the mk2, but what could it be? Did they change the drivers in any way? I thought they didn't. Changes in other parts are very minor, and I don't see how they could cause these differences.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why would you need to break in the mk2, but not the originals with the new drivers? It seems like Stax screwed up something with the mk2, but what could it be? Did they change the drivers in any way? I thought they didn't. Changes in other parts are very minor, and I don't see how they could cause these differences._

 

The pads make a *huge* difference with any Stax headphone and with the SR-007 the difference is gigantic. If I'm not mistaken there is a lot of stuff going on underneath the pads but I can't be sure until I get a set.


----------



## pdennis

When using a transformer box like the SRD-7, can the box alone (if it's on) maintain the bias in a set of phones, or does the power amp it's connected to need to be on, too?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When using a transformer box like the SRD-7, can the box alone (if it's on) maintain the bias in a set of phones, or does the power amp it's connected to need to be on, too?_

 

If it is a SB unit then it needs a signal from the poweramp to maintain the charge but an AC powered unit can be turned on, on its own and provide the bias.


----------



## naamanf

Speaking of bias have you played around with different bias voltages for the 02s?


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems like Stax screwed up something with the mk2, but what could it be? ._

 

Wellll...... let's hope not. I'm eager to hear more reports from Audiod, but the initial reports are disturbing. Yes, they should sound better after a lot of break-in time, but iirc he's reporting they are not "there" yet, and it's been a good while. I believe his first set were defective, too. So, we could be looking at some early teething problems with the Mk IIs, and it's entirely possible they may never be as good the original O2s. Why do I say that? Well, it appears Stax tried to engineer a solution to what I consider a non-problem - the infamous Stax fart. To do so, they put in some kind of bleed valve so the delicate sensitiivities of the listener would not be offended. Only one problem with that: the reason Stax fart is there is a tight pneumo-accoustic seal that gets "flexed," hence, the fart. Is is possible that by putting a valve in to prevent the fart, Stax threw the baby out with the bathwater? Very possible.
 We'll have to wait and see. But the valve seems to be the main "innovation" between the two models. If anyone has additional info, spring it, but that's what I've been able to glean from the Stax sites and some chats with a few folks.

 If Stax DID screw the pooch, better order the old sets before they're gone! I notice there's no price differential between them at present.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads make a *huge* difference with any Stax headphone and with the SR-007 the difference is gigantic. If I'm not mistaken there is a lot of stuff going on underneath the pads but I can't be sure until I get a set._

 

There don't seem to be any radical changes in size or shape of the ear cavities provided by the pads of the mk2 when compared to the original. This is based on pictures that I saw and reviews that I read - I don't have the mk2, only the original. The change in material shouldn't make a difference - both materials should seal just as well.

 I don't know what could be going on underneath the pads - not sure what you mean here.

 It will be interesting to read more reviews from people who have both the mk2 and the original. I was expecting the mk2 to be identical in sound quality to the original, and hoping for better, even though I knew that was unlikely since hardly anything was changed. I certainly didn't expect it to be worse.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, it appears Stax tried to engineer a solution to what I consider a non-problem - the infamous Stax fart. To do so, they put in some kind of bleed valve so the delicate sensitiivities of the listener would not be offended. Only one problem with that: the reason Stax fart is there is a tight pneumo-accoustic seal that gets "flexed," hence, the fart. Is is possible that by putting a valve in to prevent the fart, Stax threw the baby out with the bathwater? Very possible.
 We'll have to wait and see. But the valve seems to be the main "innovation" between the two models. If anyone has additional info, spring it, but that's what I've been able to glean from the Stax sites and some chats with a few folks._

 


 I didn't know about this valve - that could indeed explain it. I read some reports that the fart is gone. Where did you see the valve mentioned on Stax sites?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of bias have you played around with different bias voltages for the 02s?_

 

Truth be told I haven't experimented much with the O2's compared to my other phones but they seem to like 560-580v the best in my limited experiments. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There don't seem to be any radical changes in size or shape of the ear cavities provided by the pads of the mk2 when compared to the original. This is based on pictures that I saw and reviews that I read - I don't have the mk2, only the original. The change in material shouldn't make a difference - both materials should seal just as well.

 I don't know what could be going on underneath the pads - not sure what you mean here.

 It will be interesting to read more reviews from people who have both the mk2 and the original. I was expecting the mk2 to be identical in sound quality to the original, and hoping for better, even though I knew that was unlikely since hardly anything was changed. I certainly didn't expect it to be worse._

 

We don't know if it is worse yet and the feedback I've been getting is that they are better but the difference is minimal. The A/Mk2 was only supposed to fix the small issues and make them ROHS compatible. 

 Looks can be deceiving when it comes to the pads. The 4070 looks just like the 404 when you look at the earpad but hidden under the pads are ports that are open when the pads are not compressed but create a bass reflex system once the phones make a seal on the head. That's why the bass suddenly appears when you get a seal and I think Stax did something similar with the A/Mk2. The Stax fart is a direct fault of the airtight pads as all electrostats behave like this when you force them to be airtight. My guess is that Stax put some bleeding system in place so the excess air could escape but that could cause some midbass hump and bass boom. It could also be that the new pads make the phones even more sensitive to the angle of attack. I won't know until I get a set and that wont be for a while since I went a little crazy on my new source...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks can be deceiving when it comes to the pads._

 

so, I had a long talk with Tats today. First, the new pads will fit the SR-007. Not only that, he considers them to be an upgrade, primarily tightening the bass and filling out the bottom octave. He says that the newer pads breath more. They are not perforated like the 4070 pads. He says the shape is identical and Stax plans on selling both for the time being. They only come in black.

 He will have the new pads in early February and expects them to cost around $125 US.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, I had a long talk with Tats today. First, the new pads will fit the SR-007. Not only that, he considers them to be an upgrade, primarily tightening the bass and filling out the bottom octave. He says that the newer pads breath more. They are not perforated like the 4070 pads. He says the shape is identical and Stax plans on selling both for the time being. They only come in black.

 He will have the new pads in early February and expects them to cost around $125 US._

 

Damn so it looks like I have to stock up on SR-007 pads... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not going through the SR-Omega nonsense again of having to use black pads instead of the brown stock ones. Why Stax ordered a fresh shipment of black pads is beyond me... but I'll give them an earful next time I contact them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It looks like the Sr-007A might be on the books for February is this damn CDP doesn't drain any more cash. I just saw the quote for the hand wound silver step down transformer I need... damn!!!


----------



## pipoplus

My local ad. paid out again! 
 (telephonevoice: Sure I like to take that "old" Stax of your hands for way to little!) 
 Hence my new set SRM-T1S and the Sr-Lambda pro classic.

 It took me a whole night cleaning trying get rid of the dust and the smoke smell (succeeded partially) 
 I like both the headphone and the amp. For now I prefer the SR-Lambda pro to my newer Lambda Nova basic (which has now only 30 hour on it) The Pro is more dynamic, somewhat less controlled though. For difference in amps (SRM-T1S vs SRM1/MK2) the jury is still in chambers.

 here a picture 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 .


----------



## spritzer

Congrats on a great score. Sorry about the smoking smell though as it can be nearly impossible to get out. Get new earpads for the Pro Classic and clean the headpad well and you are 80% there.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Congrats on a great score. Sorry about the smoking smell though as it can be nearly impossible to get out. Get new earpads for the Pro Classic and clean the headpad well and you are 80% there. 
 

Thanks! At this moment it is sitting in a big closed bucket with two ionizers.
 I hope that will take care of some of the smell . The foam in the earpads are also gone so I will have to get replacements eventually.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! At this moment it is sitting in a big closed bucket with two ionizers.
 I hope that will take care of some of the smell . The foam in the earpads are also gone so I will have to get replacements eventually._

 

Fabreeze or whatever it is spelled might help too. It's the pump spray stuff that absorbs odors from carpet and furniture.


----------



## cosmopragma

Ionizers are pretty aggressive and I would make sure beforehand that the 1.3 micron foil isn't affected.This Febreze stuff might also not be the best idea if applied to the foil.Even a tiny amount of residue could result in an audible effect.


----------



## pipoplus

Thanks for the comments,
 I had the ionizers and the headphone in the large bucket for 10 hours now; until now no problems and I am careful not to putt the headphones to close to the ionizers because they generate an (mild) electrostatic (were did I hear that before) field. 
 So I keep a distance and let the ozon do the work (just like the professionals do it). 

 I have an idea it is already starting to work because now I have to hold my nose close to it to smell it 
 I will not mess masking odors or fluids close to the foil ! I used some vinegar with water to remove the nicotine(oil) of the frame and the pads. Maybe I will use the Fabreeze stuff for a second cleaning run

 The volume potentiometer is cracking a tiny bit and it is hard to reach; any tips?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I received my SRM-1 Mk2 today.

 It came with the voltage set for 220V I believe, see first photo where the arrow is pointing down toward the printed number "220" which you cant really see in the photo. 






 I changed it to 117V (at least I think so), and I want to make sure I have it set right for the USA, see second photo. Please confirm I have it right before I plug it in, I'm pretty sure the 100v is for Japan, and we are anywhere between 110-120v?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When using a transformer box like the SRD-7, can the box alone (if it's on) maintain the bias in a set of phones, or does the power amp it's connected to need to be on, too?_

 

It can maintain bias voltage, since it get power from the mains (AC). The SRD-7SB is a different matter though, since it charge bias from the audio signal.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, I had a long talk with Tats today. First, the new pads will fit the SR-007. Not only that, he considers them to be an upgrade, primarily tightening the bass and filling out the bottom octave. He says that the newer pads breath more. They are not perforated like the 4070 pads. He says the shape is identical and Stax plans on selling both for the time being. They only come in black.

 He will have the new pads in early February and expects them to cost around $125 US._

 

Excellent news!
 I need spared pads for my SR-007BL's, and have only found brown ones so far. So I am relieved to see that the new pads are black only, and that they fit the SR-007.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My local ad. paid out again! 
 (telephonevoice: Sure I like to take that "old" Stax of your hands for way to little!) 
 Hence my new set SRM-T1S and the Sr-Lambda pro classic._

 

Nice score. Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Smoking smell sure can be hard to get rid off. I had to completely dismantle a pair of SR-Lambda Pro's and wash/scrub it to get rid of the smell. New pads help a lot as well.


----------



## pdennis

Thanks for the info on maintaining bias voltage, folks. Very useful.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I changed it to 117V (at least I think so), and I want to make sure I have it set right for the USA, see second photo. Please confirm I have it right before I plug it in, I'm pretty sure the 100v is for Japan, and we are anywhere between 110-120v?_

 

That looks like it is set correctly for USA voltage, at 117V.

 The mechanism looks the same as my SRM-T1W.

 Yes, 100V is for Japan.


----------



## spritzer

I always remove the drivers and drown every thing else in soap and water for a few hours and the scrub it clean. It works great for me as I always rip the phones to pieces anyway. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my SRM-1 Mk2 today.

 It came with the voltage set for 220V I believe, see first photo where the arrow is pointing down toward the printed number "220" which you cant really see in the photo. 

 I changed it to 117V (at least I think so), and I want to make sure I have it set right for the USA, see second photo. Please confirm I have it right before I plug it in, I'm pretty sure the 100v is for Japan, and we are anywhere between 110-120v?_

 

Point it towards 117v and you are done.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wanted to revisit the Stax wall wart PSU issue. Since I'm going to spend some time with my new SRD-X in the computer setup I needed another 12v wallwart. My two bench PSU's are in use so I searched and found an old Cambridge Soundworks 18VA unit and it is a pretty drastic improvement on the standard 12VA unit I used before. This is on the SRM-Xh driving the SR-X Mk3 Pro. The soundstage is bigger, bas is deeper and more controlled and there is a certain feeling of ease now you get when amps are well fed. This mirrors my findings with the bench PSU so you should hear an improvement with a bigger PSU but there are no sure things in this world._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_18VA is 12v@1.5A in this case. Though the Stax amps and adapters can take a little more then 12v, 18v is way too high._

 

This is interesting, Birgir (as always!): I've discovered that part of the reason my bench PS was not sounding better than the Stax wallwart on the SRM-212 is that, when I measured the bench PS's output with my multimeter, it was slightly low (to get 12V on the multimeter means adjusting the bench PS's output meter to read 12.5V).

 Whilst experimenting with the voltage output of the bench PS, I found that it almost acts like a very gradual volume control: I've been up to 13.5V and there is a steady improvement in sound quality, but have been nervous about leaving it at that setting. What would you say is a safe continuous voltage level for a SRM-212 (or SRD-X, or SRM-Xh, for that matter)?

 I've also tried edstrelow's recommendation of separating the bench PS DC output leads, which helps, but I have to say, for all the effort and expense, it's been barely worth it. Then again, do PSs need running/breaking in?

 (Incidentally, I've noticed that when I use the bench PS to power other equipment the output current meter varies according to demand, but with the SRM-212 it's locked on to 0.35A and never wavers, so the 3.3A that's theoretically available is never tapped into.)


----------



## spritzer

You should be getting a much bigger difference then that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm sure 13.5v would be fine as it is only 10% over but is that the voltage under load? It could also be that this PSU just sounds bad and that is always possible. The units I use are all vintage with massive transformers and over specced.


----------



## Downrange

Johnny Blue: I have run my SRM-212 at around 13.2V for some years now. I'd be hesitant to feed it much more than that (13.5 should be OK). Mine blew the internal fuse once, very early in its life, and I suspect Stax had put some fast blow fuses in from the factory, because the replacement has been fine. (BTW, you have to go in and solder a new fuse in, so it's a bit of a pain.)
 It's typical of companies to want to protect their circuitry like that, as it's easy for customers to make mistakes, such as wiring it with inverse polarity, and a fast blow fuse very close to the operating current draw may save expensive parts from overload and destruction. But solid state devices DO tend to be capable of operating under a little overvoltage. They just draw more current (and usually have slightly higher output and often sound better). Exceed a certain threshold voltage, though, and THEY act like fuses too - they blow! So you want to be careful not to go over the recommended voltage by very much. 
 BTW, I've read of others blowing fuses in SRM-212/252 amps. When I replaced it, I noticed it was a pretty high value (seems like it was around an amp), and should have been reliable under 350 ma draw, (around 4 W), so I can only conclude there is a current inrush and spike when turning it on (that's when it blew, for me.) For that reason, if/when it blows, I'd recommend using a slow-blow, or even a slightly higher value fuse (I went with a 1 and 1/2 amp, I think, and have had no further problems). Probably if you stay around 12V you won't run into this problem. Just a guess as to what happened - could have been a crappy fuse from the factory, but I've read about the same thing happening to others. If you think about it, it makes sense. Stax ships these with a crappy little wall wart that has poor regulation, so when you power on the amp, the current inrush "pulls down" the supply voltage, limiting current flow. Replace said wart with a good, stiff, regulated PS, and much more current is available to feed that inrush. Hence the fuse blows. This is a consideration for those who, like me, wanted a better PS for this amp. Be prepared to replace that factory fuse.

 If you do blow the fuse, don't make the mistake of putting too large a value in, as you lose much of the protective ability of the fuse by doing so. (for example, don't put a 10amp fuse in there, as then the circuit could draw a 40X power overload, and that would toast things in a hurry if something went south in there.)

 BTW, JBlue, the current spike on powering up would be too "fast" to see on the PS meters. You'd have to have some really fast peak holding meters to see it... Just an afterthought -


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please confirm I have it right before I plug it in, I'm pretty sure the 100v is for Japan, and we are anywhere between 110-120v?_

 

Looks correct to me (from the unclear picture that is).
 117v are to be used in the US, while Japan have 100v. 220v for Europe, and other parts of the world.


----------



## xenithon

Very quick question: does the SRM-717 scale up well / improve significantly when running using the balanced inputs? Has anyone perhaps compared it using a DAC or other source which has both RCA and XLR outputs?

 Cheers,
 X


----------



## naamanf

I can't speak for the 717 but with the 007T plugged into my Opus with both SE and balanced I could not tell a difference between the two.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice score. Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Smoking smell sure can be hard to get rid off. I had to completely dismantle a pair of SR-Lambda Pro's and wash/scrub it to get rid of the smell. New pads help a lot as well._

 


 My SR-5's stunk like stale smoke pretty badly. A few sponge baths with "Goo Gone" citrus cleaner over the course of a few weeks about took care of it. Make sure to wipe EVERYWHERE, even places that you wouldn't expect like around the hinged earcup mounts, headband nooks and crannys, etc.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should be getting a much bigger difference then that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm sure 13.5v would be fine as it is only 10% over but is that the voltage under load? It could also be that this PSU just sounds bad and that is always possible. The units I use are all vintage with massive transformers and over specced._

 

No, I'm not measuring under load (on the multimeter) but when I plug in the bench PS (with it on, obviousyl) there's no change in the PS's output voltage meter, suggesting it's not lowering under load...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnny Blue: I have run my SRM-212 at around 13.2V for some years now. I'd be hesitant to feed it much more than that (13.5 should be OK). Mine blew the internal fuse once, very early in its life, and I suspect Stax had put some fast blow fuses in from the factory, because the replacement has been fine. (BTW, you have to go in and solder a new fuse in, so it's a bit of a pain.)
 It's typical of companies to want to protect their circuitry like that, as it's easy for customers to make mistakes, such as wiring it with inverse polarity, and a fast blow fuse very close to the operating current draw may save expensive parts from overload and destruction. But solid state devices DO tend to be capable of operating under a little overvoltage. They just draw more current (and usually have slightly higher output and often sound better). Exceed a certain threshold voltage, though, and THEY act like fuses too - they blow! So you want to be careful not to go over the recommended voltage by very much. 
 BTW, I've read of others blowing fuses in SRM-212/252 amps. When I replaced it, I noticed it was a pretty high value (seems like it was around an amp), and should have been reliable under 350 ma draw, (around 4 W), so I can only conclude there is a current inrush and spike when turning it on (that's when it blew, for me.) For that reason, if/when it blows, I'd recommend using a slow-blow, or even a slightly higher value fuse (I went with a 1 and 1/2 amp, I think, and have had no further problems). Probably if you stay around 12V you won't run into this problem. Just a guess as to what happened - could have been a crappy fuse from the factory, but I've read about the same thing happening to others. If you think about it, it makes sense. Stax ships these with a crappy little wall wart that has poor regulation, so when you power on the amp, the current inrush "pulls down" the supply voltage, limiting current flow. Replace said wart with a good, stiff, regulated PS, and much more current is available to feed that inrush. Hence the fuse blows. This is a consideration for those who, like me, wanted a better PS for this amp. Be prepared to replace that factory fuse.

 If you do blow the fuse, don't make the mistake of putting too large a value in, as you lose much of the protective ability of the fuse by doing so. (for example, don't put a 10amp fuse in there, as then the circuit could draw a 40X power overload, and that would toast things in a hurry if something went south in there.)

 BTW, JBlue, the current spike on powering up would be too "fast" to see on the PS meters. You'd have to have some really fast peak holding meters to see it... Just an afterthought -_

 

Thanks, Downrange, but I've already learnt the hard way about the internal fuse on the SRM-212: I blew mine back in the summer, when I first started on this quest to up the PS for the amp, but I think I got the polarity wrong, which is why it blew.

 The fuse built in was 125V 1.5A and I had to replace it with a 250V 1.6A, the nearest I could get (see my earlier posts for discussion of this).


----------



## Downrange

JB, very good. I couldn't remember what the value was, but believe I must have put in a 2 amp. As you know doubt are aware, voltage rating is inconsequential. But, be glad the fuse protected the circuitry when you switched the power leads around! That's an easy mistake to make with this little amp.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very quick question: does the SRM-717 scale up well / improve significantly when running using the balanced inputs? Has anyone perhaps compared it using a DAC or other source which has both RCA and XLR outputs?

 Cheers,
 X_

 

I have a 717, 007t & T1W and don't hear much difference between balanced and unbalanced. I have no trouble with unbalanced and my system is dead quiet. Most of my favorite equipment over the years has been unbalanced, although I hate the RCA connector.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...but I have to say, for all the effort and expense, it's been barely worth it._

 

Most low cost bench regulated PS’s are not designed for powering audiophile equipment. Most have crude series pass regulators with slow, low gain servo’s. A lot of the units have very little capacitance after the regulators. A perfect PS will have a zero source impedance even under dynamic loads. To try to keep the dynamic source impedance low you might want to try a low ESR electrolytic cap (bypassed with a small value film cap) across the DC line.


----------



## facelvega

A quick report from the vintage cheapskate consortium: a few of us--myself, Faust2D, and ericj--cajoled Spritzer into selling us (for a pittance) some of his wonkiest old stats: Stax-built Marantz and Magnavox, a rebuilt ESP6, and the seventies-riffic Superex PEP-74. The box from Iceland arrived today, and right now my listening room reminds me of the German term _Kabelsalat_, i.e., cable salad. Oh dear what fun. Thanks, Spritzer!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very quick question: does the SRM-717 scale up well / improve significantly when running using the balanced inputs? Has anyone perhaps compared it using a DAC or other source which has both RCA and XLR outputs?_

 

I can't speak of the SRM-717, since I have only heard it in a store setup.
 But with my SRM-007t I noticed a more than minor improvement when going from single ended to balanced. Between the ECD1 and the SRM-007t that is.
 Did not use identical cables (XLR and RCA) though, so its hard to tell how much is the result of actually going balanced and the result of switching cables.

 You might be able to borrow a cable somewhere and test on your own though.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A quick report from the vintage cheapskate consortium: a few of us--myself, Faust2D, and ericj--cajoled Spritzer into selling us (for a pittance) some of his wonkiest old stats: Stax-built Marantz and Magnavox, a rebuilt ESP6, and the seventies-riffic Superex PEP-74. The box from Iceland arrived today, and right now my listening room reminds me of the German term Kabelsalat, i.e., cable salad. Oh dear what fun. Thanks, Spritzer!_

 

Hats off to Birgir for letting some of his gear go, to someone who "need" it more than him. I have always looked to him as a collector who almost never let anything out again. Much like me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please keep us posted with some impressions when you have fired up the gear.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hats off to Birgir for letting some of his gear go, to someone who "need" it more than him. I have always looked to him as a collector who almost never let anything out again. Much like me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Please keep us posted with some impressions when you have fired up the gear._

 

I think it just all got a bit too much when I climbed above the 50 phone mark and I just had to sell some of my stock. I must admit it was a bit idiotic to have three or even four units of the same headphone just sitting around while the funds can be used for other projects such as paying for my new CDP.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it just all got a bit too much when I climbed above the 50 phone mark and I just had to sell some of my stock. I must admit it was a bit idiotic to have three or even four units of the same headphone just sitting around while the funds can be used for other projects such as paying for my new CDP._

 

Well if you have another set of Gamma pros to unload gimme a shout. Looking for an SRD-7 Mk2 or Pro to play with too.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hats off to Birgir for letting some of his gear go, to someone who "need" it more than him. I have always looked to him as a collector who almost never let anything out again. Much like me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please keep us posted with some impressions when you have fired up the gear._

 

Yeah, I suppose it was Birgir's Christmas present for us. I've spent a couple of hours with them now (except the Marantz, which isn't working) out of my Super Pro USB dac, SRD-7, and a vintage Sherwood S-7100 receiver/amp, and I can give some initial impressions up against my Stax. 

 (EDIT: a few hours later, my impressions had changed, see a few posts below.)

 1. SR-X mkIII
 2. Superex PEP-74, SR-5, Magnavox
 3. ESP6

 I'm no fan of closed headphones in general, and though the Koss is pleasing in its way, it can't quite keep up in this crowd. It looks great, though. The Magnavox is a lot like my old SR-5, though better built and more comfortable. My first impression is that it sounds a bit better out of its own transformer than out of my SRD-7. Faust2D will have more to say, I'm sure, the vox is his. The Superex performs right on a level with the SR-5, though it's true as has been reported that its warm and fast sound does very well with rock, a little less clean-sounding than the Stax and far from flat, but very musical and pleasing. This is exactly what I was looking for: something unlike my SR-X in the direction that the SR-5 is, but more so. To my ear the SR-X still rules here, though; its brighter, more analytical character leaves the others sounding a little muddy in comparison. 

 The SR-X is easiest to drive, then the SR-5/Magnavox, then the Superex, and the Koss requires the most juice. The Magnavox is most comfortable, then the SR-5, then the Suprex, the SR-X, and the head-clamping, heavy Koss last. The Magnavox and Koss are built like tanks, the Superex and Staxen more delicate. 

 Three questions remain: first, how the Koss and Superex will sound out of their own adapters; second, whether ericj will be able to get that Marantz running; and finally, how all the stats will measure up against my best orthodynamic, a modded Yamaha YH-100 out of a Lunchbox amp. Before really testing, in my mind it's a four-way tie for 2nd. Hopefully the order will shake out more clearly with longer listening.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well if you have another set of Gamma pros to unload gimme a shout. Looking for an SRD-7 Mk2 or Pro to play with too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey, if I don't like the Gamma Pros that Spritzer sold me, I'll certainly let you know BEFORE I put them up for sale. I have the SRM-1 Mk2 just waiting for them, and then I'll know.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well if you have another set of Gamma pros to unload gimme a shout. Looking for an SRD-7 Mk2 or Pro to play with too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't have any extra and the ones that are either on the way or in storage for me are all earmarked for Mk3 Pro projects. I'll let you know if I stumble on some more units.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have any extra and the ones that are either on the way or in storage for me are all earmarked for Mk3 Pro projects. I'll let you know if I stumble on some more units._

 

Thanks, appreciate it


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, if I don't like the Gamma Pros that Spritzer sold me, I'll certainly let you know BEFORE I put them up for sale. I have the SRM-1 Mk2 just waiting for them, and then I'll know._

 

Thanks Addict. 
 I hope you hate them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 j/k hehe


----------



## luvdunhill

well, I've been playing with some cables with my KGSS and can say two things:

 Kimber Select is garbage... I haven't tried the all-silver ones, but all the others are surprisingly crappy

 Kimber KCAG and KTAG are quite nice for the money






 I got to play with some more expensive cables and really, I think the KCAG is pretty nice for the under $250 used bracket. That being said, I'm selling some of my more expensive cables and downgrading, so I guess I'm settling in a way and just trying to comfort myself


----------



## pabbi1

We are going to have to do some cable comparos in January...


----------



## xenithon

Hi all again. Another quickie - for those who own or have owned the SRM-717, how hot does it get? Mine tends to get quite hot, especially if it has been on for a few hours to keep the 007's energized


----------



## edstrelow

Mine would keep a coffee cup warm. Many Stax amps are quite hot from running class A. My SRM3 doesn't seem so hot but that is deceptive because it is double enclosed and somehow distributes the heat inside it so nothing gets really hot.


----------



## xenithon

Much appreciated! Also came across this post in the amp section - good to know, and fortunately my amp rests on a top shelf with plenty of room around it for ventilation.


----------



## facelvega

Alright, I've spent some more hours getting used to Spritzer's oddball vintage stats. The biggest change is that the Superex continues to grow on me, clearly eclipsing the Magnavox by now and probably also my old SR-5, if I had it on hand (running on memory for the SR-5, sold it to a friend a few days ago in anticipation of the new arrivals). The Superex is particularly good with mids and thus voices; I just heard one vocal piece on it that was almost tremblingly good, a feeling none of my headphones has been able to reproduce with that track since I sold my sorely missed PMB100 ortho float. I've also added in my YH-100 and Koss A250, two of my best, for a non-stat reality check. Here is my new ranking:

 1. SR-X
 2. YH-100 / Superex PEP-74 (technically the Yamaha is superior)
 3. A250
 4. Magnavox 1A9217
 5. ESP6

 It's funny, I guess I've hung around the planar threads long enough that I'm always surprised when a normal dynamic headphone sounds good at all. But to do the A250 justice, it can hold its own in this competition, and beats its older brother handily. The really tricky comparison now is between the Superex and the Yamaha, which is like comparing Kirk to Spock, or Aubrey to Maturin if you're of a more literary bent. The SR-X splits this difference by being both uncompromisingly analytical and also musical at the same time, and thus keeps its top spot.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all again. Another quickie - for those who own or have owned the SRM-717, how hot does it get? Mine tends to get quite hot, especially if it has been on for a few hours to keep the 007's energized 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

40 degrees centigrade measured at the vent grilles.

 Tom


----------



## smeggy

The modded SR-X is now my all-time fave headphone to date. Still many yet to hear and I haven't heard many of the top ranked phones. As they are almost universally out of my price range I don't mind so much.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, I've been playing with some cables with my KGSS and can say two things:

 Kimber Select is garbage... I haven't tried the all-silver ones, but all the others are surprisingly crappy

 Kimber KCAG and KTAG are quite nice for the money







 I got to play with some more expensive cables and really, I think the KCAG is pretty nice for the under $250 used bracket. That being said, I'm selling some of my more expensive cables and downgrading, so I guess I'm settling in a way and just trying to comfort myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The only good Kimber wires are the silvers though the Silver Streak is ok for its low price. I still like the DIY VH Audio cable more and the same goes for the Ridge Street Poiema 3. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, I've spent some more hours getting used to Spritzer's oddball vintage stats. The biggest change is that the Superex continues to grow on me, clearly eclipsing the Magnavox by now and probably also my old SR-5, if I had it on hand (running on memory for the SR-5, sold it to a friend a few days ago in anticipation of the new arrivals). The Superex is particularly good with mids and thus voices; I just heard one vocal piece on it that was almost tremblingly good, a feeling none of my headphones has been able to reproduce with that track since I sold my sorely missed PMB100 ortho float. I've also added in my YH-100 and Koss A250, two of my best, for a non-stat reality check. Here is my new ranking:

 1. SR-X
 2. YH-100 / Superex PEP-74 (technically the Yamaha is superior)
 3. A250
 4. Magnavox 1A9217
 5. ESP6

 It's funny, I guess I've hung around the planar threads long enough that I'm always surprised when a normal dynamic headphone sounds good at all. But to do the A250 justice, it can hold its own in this competition, and beats its older brother handily. The really tricky comparison now is between the Superex and the Yamaha, which is like comparing Kirk to Spock, or Aubrey to Maturin if you're of a more literary bent. The SR-X splits this difference by being both uncompromisingly analytical and also musical at the same time, and thus keeps its top spot._

 

Now that I'm thinking about it I could have made the Suprex a bit better by sealing the baffle. There might be some bleed there that is messing with the sound.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only good Kimber wires are the silvers though the Silver Streak is ok for its low price. I still like the DIY VH Audio cable more and the same goes for the Ridge Street Poiema 3._

 

Speaking of Ridge Street. This week they have a 50% off run on their cables. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Ridge Street Audio Designs


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most low cost bench regulated PS’s are not designed for powering audiophile equipment. Most have crude series pass regulators with slow, low gain servo’s. A lot of the units have very little capacitance after the regulators. A perfect PS will have a zero source impedance even under dynamic loads. To try to keep the dynamic source impedance low you might want to try a low ESR electrolytic cap (bypassed with a small value film cap) across the DC line._

 

Thanks for the insight, audiod: I'd assumed (obviously wrongly) that a PS was a PS, and were like willys, i.e., the bigger the better (and don't give me all that 'size doesn't matter' stuff!). Also, if you could put some numerical values to the cap(s) you mention, that'd be really useful (actually, I haven't a clue what _"try a low ESR electrolytic cap (bypassed with a small value film cap)"_ means, but my father-in-law knows a bit about electronics and it'll give me something to talk about with him at the next family gathering... ).

 Meanwhile, I've discovered the stock Stax (UK) wallwart is very unregulated: without load it pumps out 15.8V, dropping to the required 12V (actually 12.15V measured) when powering the SRM-212.

 This fits in with Downrange's suggestion about the low regulation ability of the supplied wall wart, but doesn't give me much of clue as to how high I dare whack up the voltage on my bench PS!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the insight, audiod: I'd assumed (obviously wrongly) that a PS was a PS, and were like willys, i.e., the bigger the better (and don't give me all that 'size doesn't matter' stuff!). Also, if you could put some numerical values to the cap(s) you mention, that'd be really useful (actually, I haven't a clue what "try a low ESR electrolytic cap (bypassed with a small value film cap)" means, but my father-in-law knows a bit about electronics and it'll give me something to talk about with him at the next family gathering... ).

 Meanwhile, I've discovered the stock Stax (UK) wallwart is very unregulated: without load it pumps out 15.8V, dropping to the required 12V (actually 12.15V measured) when powering the SRM-212.

 This fits in with Downrange's suggestion about the low regulation ability of the supplied wall wart, but doesn't give me much of clue as to how high I dare whack up the voltage on my bench PS!_

 

ESR stands for “Equivalent Series Resistance”. There are a number of companies that make electrolytic caps with low ESR (Rubycon & Nichicon come to mind). I would try a 2000+mfd at 50+volt electrolytic (the + sign means: or greater). The non-polarized film cap (polypropylene or polystyrene) should be between .01 and .1mfd at 50+volts. Parallel the film with the electrolytic and then put the caps on the PS line (make sure you get the polarity correct). As far as voltage I wouldn’t go more than 10% above the rated voltage for the Stax. The parts can be found at any good electronic supply company.


----------



## Downrange

JWBLue, I'm not surprised by what you found on the Stax wall wart's regulation. That's what I've found for every wall wart I've ever tested. In practical use, the overvoltage never gets to the device, since the continuous load is enough to draw it down. Some audiophiles actually like really elastic power supplies (think Carver), but I'm old school, since my electronics background is mainly in RF, not AF, and voltage stabilization is sort of god, there. I can see the point about using some extra capacitance and it might be worth trying, although, since Stax amps are always Class A, there won't be a lot of damping required for peaks.
 Anyway, great discussion - I love tweaking equipment with simple things that make a big improvement. BTW, the PS I'm using with my 2020s is a 4 amp SS-regulated device (has a big power transistor on the back that gets HOT) and has been doing yeoman duty since around 1975. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, I forgot to mention, don't turn up the voltage on your lab supply over 13.2V or so. Since it's a stiff supply, it won't get pulled down on turn-on, and impulse may draw more current than the circuit designers intended! (iow, you may damage something).


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Meanwhile, I've discovered the stock Stax (UK) wallwart is very unregulated: without load it pumps out 15.8V, dropping to the required 12V (actually 12.15V measured) when powering the SRM-212. 
 

just for comparison: 
 Mine stock Stax adapter (220V version)for the SRM-212 did almost 21V 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




and measured a second time with another multimeter it did 17.4V (both without load)

  Quote:


 but doesn't give me much of clue as to how high I dare whack up the voltage on my bench PS! 
 

I read in a Stax amp. manual that the tolerance is 10% of the listed voltage. (I have to say:this was for another amp.) and I believe some people in the US are driving there Japanese 100V Stax at 110V mains.
 I don't know of all this is healthy though...
 Also in some EU countries the AC voltage has been increased from 220V to 240V during the past 10-20 years. this would definitely have influence on the output voltage of all those older Stax amps.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I'm thinking about it I could have made the Suprex a bit better by sealing the baffle. There might be some bleed there that is messing with the sound._

 

I might take a look at it, but I'm hesitant because I doubt I'll ever find replacement earpads if I mess up the stock pair. 

 By the way, season's greetings from Brooklyn, all. Note how the reddish glow of christmas lights make vintage stats look all the more enticing:


----------



## naamanf

Okay now that I have amplification taken care of, what would be a good suggestion on another set of stats? I would really like to try something vintage but am not sure what I should be looking for.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay now that I have amplification taken care of, what would be a good suggestion on another set of stats? I would really like to try something vintage but am not sure what I should be looking for._

 

Assuming you want to stay away from the cheap stuff, how about a Sigma?


----------



## ironbut

regarding the Blue Hawaii build. Your reply was like you'd read my mind. Just the stuff I needed to find out. Your buddies must've thought you were nuts! Sometimes, even listening isn't believing but, some folks don't even care what they put in their mouths.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay now that I have amplification taken care of, what would be a good suggestion on another set of stats? I would really like to try something vintage but am not sure what I should be looking for._

 

High Bias I would go for a SR-Lambda Pro or SR-Lambda Signature.
 Low Bias I would go for a SR-Lambda or SR-XmkIII.
 You might consider the Sigma series but I am not a fan.

 If you want to exersize your new KGBH stick with high bias.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want to exersize your new KGBH stick with high bias._

 

Or just install a low bias supply in the BH. It drives all the low bias phones with perfection.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Assuming you want to stay away from the cheap stuff, how about a Sigma?_

 

I'm just looking for good sound. What would be a good Sigma to look for? Preferably pro bias so I don't have to go changing things around. 
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_regarding the Blue Hawaii build. Your reply was like you'd read my mind. Just the stuff I needed to find out. Your buddies must've thought you were nuts! Sometimes, even listening isn't believing but, some folks don't even care what they put in their mouths._

 

They already thought I was a bit nuts. Building that just confirmed it


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_High Bias I would go for a SR-Lambda Pro or SR-Lambda Signature.
 Low Bias I would go for a SR-Lambda or SR-XmkIII.
 You might consider the Sigma series but I am not a fan.

 If you want to exersize your new KGBH stick with high bias._

 

Thanks. That should get me started.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or just install a low bias supply in the BH. It drives all the low bias phones with perfection._

 

I think all it takes is adding another resistor. 

 Is it advantageous to have the phones hooked up to a constant bias source?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm just looking for good sound. What would be a good Sigma to look for? Preferably pro bias so I don't have to go changing things around. _

 

Actually on second thought, I guess audiod is right that you should be looking for some Lambdas, maybe some old Pros or Novas if you want vintage and pro bias. No point in venturing into the fruity territory of the Sigma until you've got a Lambda or two around the house/barracks.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, I've spent some more hours getting used to Spritzer's oddball vintage stats. The biggest change is that the Superex continues to grow on me, clearly eclipsing the Magnavox by now and probably also my old SR-5, if I had it on hand (running on memory for the SR-5, sold it to a friend a few days ago in anticipation of the new arrivals). The Superex is particularly good with mids and thus voices; I just heard one vocal piece on it that was almost tremblingly good, a feeling none of my headphones has been able to reproduce with that track since I sold my sorely missed PMB100 ortho float. I've also added in my YH-100 and Koss A250, two of my best, for a non-stat reality check. Here is my new ranking:

 1. SR-X
 2. YH-100 / Superex PEP-74 (technically the Yamaha is superior)
 3. A250
 4. Magnavox 1A9217
 5. ESP6

 It's funny, I guess I've hung around the planar threads long enough that I'm always surprised when a normal dynamic headphone sounds good at all. But to do the A250 justice, it can hold its own in this competition, and beats its older brother handily. The really tricky comparison now is between the Superex and the Yamaha, which is like comparing Kirk to Spock, or Aubrey to Maturin if you're of a more literary bent. The SR-X splits this difference by being both uncompromisingly analytical and also musical at the same time, and thus keeps its top spot._

 

I believe your Koss ESP 6 is heavily modded and not run from its own adapter so I wonder if it really sounds like a stock model. Don't get me wrong, they are not a great phone but they are fun and they isolate well.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually on second thought, I guess audiod is right that you should be looking for some Lambdas, maybe some old Pros or Novas if you want vintage and pro bias. No point in venturing into the fruity territory of the Sigma until you've got a Lambda or two around the house/barracks._

 

or dorm room?

 I've heard the Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, and 404; I think the Sigma Pro sounds more natural. Try something different like the SR-4070.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe your Koss ESP 6 is heavily modded and run from its own adapter so I wonder if it really sounds like a stock model. Don't get me wrong, they are not a great phone but they are fun and they isolate well._

 

My ESP6 has had its guts removed and remounted as an external adapter, which has three advantages: not so heavy, room in the cup to handle the backwave, and it can be plugged into either its own, formerly internal adapter or an low-bias stax adapter or amp. So far I've only tried it out of my SRD-7, though its own adapter is waiting in the wings. I have a total of four adapters on hand at the moment and only a little wire to connect them, so it's been a slow process.

 As I say, I'm biased against closed headphones in general-- they all sound artificial to me-- but even taking that into account, I think it's not so much the weakness of the ESP6 as the strength of the rest of the field that is registering here.


----------



## AudioCats

I just reworked a 5V/1A regulate wallwart (originally for an external zip drive). It wasn't working for my SRM-001 before, sound quality got bad after 3 seconds or so. I thought it was due to the slightly higher voltage (5.04v vs. the 4.6v from my panasonic un-regulated), but it turned out the problem was the step-up power supply circuit in the little Stax amp sending back noise and confusing the voltage regulator in the zip wallwart. By adding a 2200uF/6.3V high ripple capacitor into the zip walwart's output stage, the SRM-001 works fine now. BUT! the sound is still not as good as the Panasonic non-regulated wallwart. The zip walwart sounds dryer and more sterile, I much prefer the Panasonic. 
 The zip wallwart's output measured 5.04V, excally the same as before adding the 2200uf cap. 
 So for a Stax amp with internal step-up supply circuit, a generic regulated PS can be worse than a non-regulated PS. Does the 212 have internal step-up inverter, like a 252?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ESR stands for “Equivalent Series Resistance”. There are a number of companies that make electrolytic caps with low ESR (Rubycon & Nichicon come to mind). I would try a 2000+mfd at 50+volt electrolytic (the + sign means: or greater). The non-polarized film cap (polypropylene or polystyrene) should be between .01 and .1mfd at 50+volts. Parallel the film with the electrolytic and then put the caps on the PS line (make sure you get the polarity correct). As far as voltage I wouldn’t go more than 10% above the rated voltage for the Stax. The parts can be found at any good electronic supply company._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_JWBLue, I'm not surprised by what you found on the Stax wall wart's regulation. That's what I've found for every wall wart I've ever tested. In practical use, the overvoltage never gets to the device, since the continuous load is enough to draw it down. Some audiophiles actually like really elastic power supplies (think Carver), but I'm old school, since my electronics background is mainly in RF, not AF, and voltage stabilization is sort of god, there. I can see the point about using some extra capacitance and it might be worth trying, although, since Stax amps are always Class A, there won't be a lot of damping required for peaks.
 Anyway, great discussion - I love tweaking equipment with simple things that make a big improvement. BTW, the PS I'm using with my 2020s is a 4 amp SS-regulated device (has a big power transistor on the back that gets HOT) and has been doing yeoman duty since around 1975. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh, I forgot to mention, don't turn up the voltage on your lab supply over 13.2V or so. Since it's a stiff supply, it won't get pulled down on turn-on, and impulse may draw more current than the circuit designers intended! (iow, you may damage something)._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just for comparison: 
 Mine stock Stax adapter (220V version)for the SRM-212 did almost 21V 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




and measured a second time with another multimeter it did 17.4V (both without load)


 I read in a Stax amp. manual that the tolerance is 10% of the listed voltage. (I have to say:this was for another amp.) and I believe some people in the US are driving there Japanese 100V Stax at 110V mains.
 I don't know of all this is healthy though...
 Also in some EU countries the AC voltage has been increased from 220V to 240V during the past 10-20 years. this would definitely have influence on the output voltage of all those older Stax amps._

 

Thanks for the contributions, chaps (and the one above about the SRM-001): I'm assuming these caps won't cost much so an experiment will be in order.

 It's all proving so much more complicated than I'd assumed. I thought that the Stax supplied wallwart would be cr*p and that anything would better it, certainly a whopping great bench PS (which, by the way, also has a whopping great transistor on the rear, surrounded by massive heatsinks). Of course if the Stax amps do thrive on unregulated PSs, I've gone in completely the wrong direction!


----------



## krmathis

facelvega. Nice to see that the SR-X/MK3 stand up against all these competitors from the same time frame. Nice write-up as well. Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm just looking for good sound. What would be a good Sigma to look for? Preferably pro bias so I don't have to go changing things around._

 

There are only two Sigmas, the normal and Pro bias models. There are also those rebuilt with newer drivers but they were never produced by Stax

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think all it takes is adding another resistor._

 

That will do it but a simple AC line voltage doubler will also work just fine. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it advantageous to have the phones hooked up to a constant bias source?_

 

Not that I've noticed and it might even harm the phones. Parasitic capacitance is a major problem and can car the drivers. I always unplug my phones and short out the bias pins with a finger. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe your Koss ESP 6 is heavily modded and run from its own adapter so I wonder if it really sounds like a stock model. Don't get me wrong, they are not a great phone but they are fun and they isolate well._

 

They are altered more then modified as I relocated all of the electronics. They do run at a higher bias stock (360v) and a very different driving arrangement.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Of course if the Stax amps do thrive on unregulated PSs, I've gone in completely the wrong direction!_

 

I don't believe that you've gone the wrong direction, at all. I don't believe the Stax amps thrive on unregulated PS. My 2020 has been using the good 4 amp supply for over five years - it really sound fantastic for what it is. 

 If you want to A/B the wall wart, A/B it with a pure DC source, as in batteries. It's hard to imagine a design scenario where any DC PS, wall wart or lab supply, would sound better than pure DC. These are, after all, solid state amps, designed to run on DC. Any stray reactance should be moot using batteries.

 There's actually a high-end phono preamp out there that uses D-cells internally for its PS. Expensive, if you have large current draws (phono preamps don't), but phenomenal sound.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Yes, I actually bought a case that takes 10 AA NiMH 1.2V cells for this very purpose, but other than to check if it works (it did!), I've gone no further with the idea, prefering to go down the 'overkill with a bench PS' route!

 Happy New Year to all you Stax lovers!


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That will do it but a simple AC line voltage doubler will also work just fine. _

 

naamanf: 

 I have an extra split-bobbin, low-profile 120->220 transformer that's perfect for this purpose if you're interested.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_naamanf: 

 I have an extra split-bobbin, low-profile 120->220 transformer that's perfect for this purpose if you're interested._

 

Thanks I will keep that in mind. I will see what phones I can find over the next couple months.


----------



## facelvega

Okay, spent some time with the Koss on its own adapter. Slightly punchier and tighter than from the SRD-7, maybe due to the higher bias, but I also get some distortion in the right channel at highish volumes that doesn't happen with the SRD, though this may partly be the fault of my amp. Still, though the Koss sounds different and maybe a little better out of its own adapter, it lacks the airiness and punch of my other stats. The isolation is really very good, though, and the sound isn't bad at all.


----------



## spritzer

The distortion was always there. I suspect a leaky cap or a bad diode but I didn't spend any time trying to fix it.


----------



## luvdunhill

I need a quick favor from someone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can anyone weigh the SR-007 inside it's flight case and outer box? I would be eternally grateful


----------



## 88Sound

SR007+flightcase+outerbox= 4 lbs. 13.5 oz.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The distortion was always there. I suspect a leaky cap or a bad diode but I didn't spend any time trying to fix it._

 

I was afraid you would say that. I'll probably not bother fixing it either since the distortion is only noticeable at high volume and they work out of my SRD-7 too.

 I've also more or less decided to move up to a Stax amp that can handle both my current normal bias gear and a future pair of Lambda Novas-- hopefully an SRM-1 mkII, and then I'll put all these adapter boxes in the closet. In a couple of days, I'll be trying out Faust2D's SRM-1 to confirm my suspicion that it will sound much more pleasing to my ear than the adapter box route.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've also more or less decided to move up to a Stax amp that can handle both my current normal bias gear and a future pair of Lambda Novas-- hopefully an SRM-1 mkII, and then I'll put all these adapter boxes in the closet. In a couple of days, I'll be trying out Faust2D's SRM-1 to confirm my suspicion that it will sound much more pleasing to my ear than the adapter box route._

 

I still haven't got over the shock I got when I discovered that an old SRD-6 SB easily out-performed my SRM-1 Mk2 driving SRX Mk3s (mind you, the amp driving the SRD-6 was a Naim 32.5/140 pre/power combination, probably worth about £1k/$2k at today's prices, if new).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was afraid you would say that. I'll probably not bother fixing it either since the distortion is only noticeable at high volume and they work out of my SRD-7 too._

 

Those were my reasons as well. I did spend a good amount of time fixing up the driver boards and since they worked 90% I wasn't going to spend any more time on them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I've also more or less decided to move up to a Stax amp that can handle both my current normal bias gear and a future pair of Lambda Novas-- hopefully an SRM-1 mkII, and then I'll put all these adapter boxes in the closet. In a couple of days, I'll be trying out Faust2D's SRM-1 to confirm my suspicion that it will sound much more pleasing to my ear than the adapter box route._

 

It is a very different sound signature between the lower level amps and the transformers but I always prefer the amps.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still haven't got over the shock I got when I discovered that an old SRD-6 SB easily out-performed my SRM-1 Mk2 driving SRX Mk3s (mind you, the amp driving the SRD-6 was a Naim 32.5/140 pre/power combination, probably worth about £1k/$2k at today's prices, if new)._

 

That has been my experience at times as well. The SRM1-MKII has really nice detail but can be just a bit analytical compared to a really fine power amp/transformer combo. 

 My latest and so far one of the better Stax driving systems is the SRM1-MKII taking a preamp feed from my ancient Fisher X100C integrated amp. I’ve got some original Fisher branded Telefunken 12AX7’s in the preamp slots that really bloom out the midrange ambience in the Stax amp. This adds some sweetness to the mids of the SRX/MKIII and Lambda. This combo rivals a combo that I had been running with an old Grundig EL84 amp which also sounded great, but I was always fighting ground loop hum. The Fisher feeding Stax combo is pretty quiet.


----------



## Faust2D

I liked SRM-1/MkII much better than an adapter with any of my amps. SRD-6SB with a good amp sounds nice, but you loose the clarity and gain compression and harmonic distortion that adds a certain omph, a questionable benefit to my ears, but I tend to like very detailed and somewhat clinical presentation.


----------



## billinkansas

I think I might be getting the best of both worlds with my Fisher 12AX7 preamp out/SRM1-MKII combo. All of the Stax amp detail is there, but with some added warmth and girth.


----------



## Faust2D

I like my Stax amp with a tube DAC, but in general I do not like very warm euphoric sounding gear, like 300B tube amps for example. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The best of both wolds for me is hybrid gear: MOSFET or JFET output stage with tube input stage preferably in full class A


----------



## spritzer

I'm also firmly in the neutral and brutally honest camp so the transformers are only used for testing. When you get to the Blue Hawaii you have both the power and punch of the transformers but even more of it with all the detail retrieval of the amps. The Mullard tubes are simply the icing on the cake...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm also firmly in the neutral and brutally honest camp so the transformers are only used for testing. When you get to the Blue Hawaii you have both the power and punch of the transformers but even more of it with all the detail retrieval of the amps. The Mullard tubes are simply the icing on the cake... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am with you when it comes to neutral. But in all honesty adapters do sound nice, and I would not say that they are inferior to amps. If you power them with a nice amp, that you already have, you can get great results and integrate with with your existing gear; a very nice deal indeed if you ask me


----------



## ironbut

I'm planning on building a BH this summer. Before I start ordering parts, has anyone tried upgrading the transformer or ps regulation? I know that BG caps in the power supply seems pretty common but what about teflon caps else where? The parts list is pretty $$$ anyway so why not just go for it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am with you when it comes to neutral. But in all honesty adapters do sound nice, and I would not say that they are inferior to amps. If you power them with a nice amp, that you already have, you can get great results and integrate with with your existing gear a very nice deal indeed if you ask me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are a real alternative to the less expensive amps and shouldn't be overlooked but they are certainly not for everybody. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm planning on building a BH this summer. Before I start ordering parts, has anyone tried upgrading the transformer or ps regulation? I know that BG caps in the power supply seems pretty common but what about teflon caps else where? The parts list is pretty $$$ anyway so why not just go for it?_

 

The only other caps in a stock BH are the MKP ones in the bias supply and in the 15v supply but they should be BG's anyway. The Blue Hawaii should benefit from a better PSU design and it is something I'm looking into. I'm thinking about having some boards made to experiment with.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, spent some time with the Koss on its own adapter. Slightly punchier and tighter than from the SRD-7, maybe due to the higher bias, but I also get some distortion in the right channel at highish volumes that doesn't happen with the SRD, though this may partly be the fault of my amp. Still, though the Koss sounds different and maybe a little better out of its own adapter, it lacks the airiness and punch of my other stats. The isolation is really very good, though, and the sound isn't bad at all._

 

These and the Koss ESP 9 have odd performance. I agree about the lack of airiness, which I would define further as missing both ambience and accurate localization on both the ESP 6 and 9.

 However they work well on some material, eg. FM broadcasts and some old rock. I was listening to old Elvis Presley material last night on the 9's and it sounded very good. 

 I would also note that they are smooth sounding, and that my Staxen, lambdas, sigmas, SRX3, 003's all sound harsh in direct comparison.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only other caps in a stock BH are the MKP ones in the bias supply and in the 15v supply but they should be BG's anyway. The Blue Hawaii should benefit from a better PSU design and it is something I'm looking into. I'm thinking about having some boards made to experiment with._

 

What value and type of BGs do you have in your power supply? Did you add any boutique resistors anywhere?

 Also thinking about upgrading the rectifier for the 15v supply to a HFRED or SIC(if I can find ones to fit).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What value and type of BGs do you have in your power supply? Did you add any boutique resistors anywhere?

 Also thinking about upgrading the rectifier for the 15v supply to a HFRED or SIC(if I can find ones to fit)._

 

Justin put in four 100+100uF/500v caps and it still has the stock Vishay resistors. I'm probably going to order some BH PCB's so I can make one or two new ones to test out new PSU designs as well as build one or two new KGSS amps from my excess parts. I'd also like to try other tube types and I've started to collect other pentodes that might be as good or better then the EL34 at a much lower price. 

 The 15v supply is ok but the amp really needs a monster PSU for both HV and LV. I'd love to try the amp design with some vintage PSU designs with plenty of iron and huge oil caps.


----------



## naamanf

Just off the top of my head I think the Sigma22 would make for a great PSU for the 15v side.
The &sigma;22 Regulated Power Supply


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but I also get some distortion in the right channel at highish volumes_

 

probably the voltage limitor (gas discharge bulbs) just kicked in. It is only connected to the right channel. (same as the E/7 except the 7 only uses one bulb while the 6 uses two)


----------



## eruditass

so what is the cheapest decent entry into home stax?


----------



## Faust2D

Hi Stax gurus! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What exactly changes with STAX ED-1 added to the system? What happens to the soundstage? Does anyone know how it works, I am looking for technical explanation here.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so what is the cheapest decent entry into home stax?_

 

Stax SRS-2020 would be a nice in production entry-level system. If you are looking towards used you can find many different possibilities. If you go with an adapter box you can make a very nice cheapish system.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so what is the cheapest decent entry into home stax?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax SRS-2020 would be a nice in production entry-level system. id you are looking towards used you can find many different possibilities. if you go with an adapter box you can make a very nice cheapish system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cheap vintage options are all normal bias, because pro bias amps and transformers are worth much more than the more or less plentiful normal bias transformers. The SR-3 and SR-5 are usually the cheapest, starting around $150 with transformer box, but lately selling a little higher. The next step up, say an SR-X or SR-5N, would run an extra $50 or so.

 I don't recommend the electret stax, on the other hand, unless you happen across a very good deal. Lately they seem to sell for nearly as much as an SR-5, a much better headphone.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Stax gurus! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What exactly changes with STAX ED-1 added to the system? What happens to the soundstage? Does anyone know how it works, I am looking for technical explanation here._

 

The Stax Gurus are all sleeping, working or suffering from a serious hangover, but even I can answer your question.
 The Ed-1 is an analog equalizer supposed to turn the Lambda Pros into diffuse field equalized headphones.
 I've listened to such a system briefly and I was seriously underwhelmed.The tonal balance was changed (and maybe for the better) but besides of the desired frequency response change this equalizer muddied the sound.I don't know whether this particular ED-1 was defective or the technology is flawed, but others do report similar unpleasant experiences.
 BTW, we all know that someone located in Hardy/Virginia is offering an ED-1, but I guess no one here will bid unless he's a collector of obscure Stax gear.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't recommend the electret stax, on the other hand, unless you happen across a very good deal. Lately they seem to sell for nearly as much as an SR-5, a much better headphone._

 

I agree here - I have the 'gold' or 'pro' versions of both the SR-30 and SR-80. If you can get them under $50 they can be interesting. Preferrably way under $50. Over $50 only if in pristine condition. I paid way too much for my SR-84 kit, and it turns out that 'way too much' is $90 shipped for the phones and SRD-4. 

 They're good but not better than a good orthodynamic. Certainly not the best electrets on the market, either. The Sony ECR-500 is far better and can be had for less than $100 almost every time they turn up, which is about every 2.5 months. Sometimes under $60. 

 But what i want to know is, what's the best price/performance on a lambda? Which model and what should i expect to pay? Without transformer box or amp, I mean.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 But what i want to know is, what's the best price/performance on a lambda? Which model and what should i expect to pay? Without transformer box or amp, I mean._

 

It's actually a good idia to get SR-Lambda with a transformer box. The tend to go cheaper with transformer boxes and you can sell SRD-7 or 6 that they usually sell with to recoup some of the cost any time. 

 The best price performance for a Lambda in my opinion would be SRM-1 with SR-Lambda. A combo like that I have seen for ~$400 on eBay, good deal if you ask me. You can find an SRM-1 relatively cheap (~$300) and SR-Lambdas go for little money ($160-$250) compared to other Lambdas. To my ears they sound as good if not better, for some things that my SR-303. SR-303 has some advantages but they are very minor. Lambda Pro to me sounded much more colored and unrealistic, I did not spend a lot of time with it but I think my opinios matches that of a few other people here. 

 SRM-1 MkII Pro is a great amp. To my ears it sounds way better than new mid-line Stax amps. I heard so far SRM-323, SRM-252, SR-313 and SRM-310. I actuality liked SRM-310 with SR-202. But out of all these amps I liked SRM-1 better.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax Gurus are all sleeping, working or suffering from a serious hangover, but even I can answer your question.
 The Ed-1 is an analog equalizer supposed to turn the Lambda Pros into diffuse field equalized headphones.
 I've listened to such a system briefly and I was seriously underwhelmed.The tonal balance was changed (and maybe for the better) but besides of the desired frequency response change this equalizer muddied the sound.I don't know whether this particular ED-1 was defective or the technology is flawed, but others do report similar unpleasant experiences.
 BTW, we all know that someone located in Hardy/Virginia is offering an ED-1, but I guess no one here will bid unless he's a collector of obscure Stax gear._

 

Thanks for the info. But how does it technically work? What's inside one of these boxes?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_probably the voltage limitor (gas discharge bulbs) just kicked in. It is only connected to the right channel. (same as the E/7 except the 7 only uses one bulb while the 6 uses two)_

 

It can't be the bulbs since they are still in place on the headphones. The boards were a mess and I was impressed that I could revive them so some distortion didn't bother me. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax Gurus are all sleeping, working or suffering from a serious hangover, but even I can answer your question.
 The Ed-1 is an analog equalizer supposed to turn the Lambda Pros into diffuse field equalized headphones.
 I've listened to such a system briefly and I was seriously underwhelmed.The tonal balance was changed (and maybe for the better) but besides of the desired frequency response change this equalizer muddied the sound.I don't know whether this particular ED-1 was defective or the technology is flawed, but others do report similar unpleasant experiences.
 BTW, we all know that someone located in Hardy/Virginia is offering an ED-1, but I guess no one here will bid unless he's a collector of obscure Stax gear._

 

This mirrors my findings with the ED-1 and ED-1 Signature. I couldn't stand it for long but I do despise diffuse filed EQ so that wasn't surprising. I only wish Sennheiser would have gone this way with the HE90 instead of designing it into the earcups. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. But how does it technically work? What's inside one of these boxes?_

 

It's just an active filter like all EQ's. There was a DIY thread about this concept some years back and you can check there for some schematics.


----------



## Downrange

For the poster looking for an entry to Stax full size sets:

 Just a vote for the (new) 2050, which replaced the 2020s I have. I don't think you can even approach their sound for the money (around 450-500).

 I'd stay away from the "moldy oldies." Just me...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just off the top of my head I think the Sigma22 would make for a great PSU for the 15v side.
The &sigma;22 Regulated Power Supply_

 

this is what I did... obviously, massive improvements as Spritzer surmised. another good choice would be a John Curl-esque shunt regulated supply. See attached.

 The HV power supply is another good place for improvement, but the part count of the psu goes up exponentially. I'm stilling trying out various devices and have some BU508 (!) on the way to play with, as I need to do a few modifications so I can raise the rails up to around 550v...

 I'm also working on a tube supply for the whole shebang, though it will be more appropriate for the KGSS if I use vaccum rectifiers due to the large voltage drop. I'm looking at a Graetz hybrid design to avoid the need for center tapped transformers. Otherwise, I need to look into some new donuts ... custom Plitron toroids aren't cheap.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Sony ECR-500_

 

hmm.. (half-joking) can I hook this up to a Blue Hawaii?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this is what I did... obviously, massive improvements as Spritzer surmised. another good choice would be a John Curl-esque shunt regulated supply. See attached.

 The HV power supply is another good place for improvement, but the part count of the psu goes up exponentially. I'm stilling trying out various devices and have some BU508 (!) on the way to play with, as I need to do a few modifications so I can raise the rails up to around 550v...

 I'm also working on a tube supply for the whole shebang, though it will be more appropriate for the KGSS if I use vaccum rectifiers due to the large voltage drop. I'm looking at a Graetz hybrid design to avoid the need for center tapped transformers. Otherwise, I need to look into some new donuts ... custom Plitron toroids aren't cheap._

 

I have this sudden urge to build some amps now... I just dug up my KGSS boards and some of the parts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I need to order up some BH boards and Sigma boards 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm.. (half-joking) can I hook this up to a Blue Hawaii? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You should since they are a normal electret. The ECR-800 could be a different matter though.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have this sudden urge to build some amps now... _

 

Trust me I know the feeling. I still have another set of boards left. I guess when you guys figure out the ultimate power supply I can build another BH


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm.. (half-joking) can I hook this up to a Blue Hawaii? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Sure, if you're willing to reterminate it with a stax plug, or dig the proprietary sony socket out of the transformer box and mount it as a 2nd socket on your BH. 

 Or manufacture your own socket, I guess. 

 The ECR plug/socket looks suspiciously like a standard part, but it isn't. It's vaguely similar to the same family of connectors as Stax uses, but there was never any corresponding Amphenol part as there is for the Stax.

 One of these days I'll build a direct-drive 'stat amp, and I'll have to decide which road to take to plug the ECR into it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, if you're willing to reterminate it with a stax plug, or dig the proprietary sony socket out of the transformer box and mount it as a 2nd socket on your BH. 

 Or manufacture your own socket, I guess. 

 The ECR plug/socket looks suspiciously like a standard part, but it isn't. It's vaguely similar to the same family of connectors as Stax uses, but there was never any corresponding Amphenol part as there is for the Stax.

 One of these days I'll build a direct-drive 'stat amp, and I'll have to decide which road to take to plug the ECR into it._

 

Another way would be to use something like Molex sockets and mount them is some material to create a good connector. Wood or nylon would work, heck I've even used glue.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this is what I did... obviously, massive improvements as Spritzer surmised. another good choice would be a John Curl-esque shunt regulated supply. See attached._

 

Would I still be able to use the Victoria Mag toroid to push the sigma22? Just wondering if this is a worthy retrofit for me...


----------



## eruditass

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the poster looking for an entry to Stax full size sets:

 Just a vote for the (new) 2050, which replaced the 2020s I have. I don't think you can even approach their sound for the money (around 450-500).

 I'd stay away from the "moldy oldies." Just me..._

 

how much do they run for? how do these compare to

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's actually a good idia to get SR-Lambda with a transformer box. The tend to go cheaper with transformer boxes and you can sell SRD-7 or 6 that they usually sell with to recoup some of the cost any time. 

 The best price performance for a Lambda in my opinion would be SRM-1 with SR-Lambda. A combo like that I have seen for ~$400 on eBay, good deal if you ask me. You can find an SRM-1 relatively cheap (~$300) and SR-Lambdas go for little money ($160-$250) compared to other Lambdas. To my ears they sound as good if not better, for some things that my SR-303. SR-303 has some advantages but they are very minor. Lambda Pro to me sounded much more colored and unrealistic, I did not spend a lot of time with it but I think my opinios matches that of a few other people here._

 

i'm deciding between this and a DT880 and SOHA amp (which i will be able to use with my other headphones.. i havn't even had an amp or dac yet)


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would I still be able to use the Victoria Mag toroid to push the sigma22? Just wondering if this is a worthy retrofit for me..._

 

yup, no problems there. I'll show you in a few weeks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 we can even pull mine out and try it in yours and get a second opinion! Problem of course is room in the case, I had to get a bit creative... I think you will too, if I remember your layout correctly.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yup, no problems there. I'll show you in a few weeks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 we can even pull mine out and try it in yours and get a second opinion! Problem of course is room in the case, I had to get a bit creative... I think you will too, if I remember your layout correctly._

 

Ah, I hate that case anyway, and just waiting for Alex to crank up the CNC for his BH case, where I can mount the new massive sinks on the outside. Of course, as FrankenCase as it already is, we can just bolt it on the side.

 So cannot wait to hear the KGSS.


----------



## spritzer

Space really is the issue but I'd much rather use a huge external PSU with a smaller amp chassis. I'd like to have a tube rectified PSU with large oil caps and plenty of chokes. CT transformers aren't a problem since I'll use Tango, Tamura or Sowter.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I hate that case anyway, and just waiting for Alex to crank up the CNC for his BH case, where I can mount the new massive sinks on the outside. Of course, as FrankenCase as it already is, we can just bolt it on the side.

 So cannot wait to hear the KGSS._

 

sounds good!

 I have plans for a BH case as well, if you're interested. Probably not as fancy as Alex's will be... It won't be cheap but uses a 16" pieces of this for heatsinks. I may have the case ready for the meet, but I don't think the amp will be totally cased up before then.... just too much stuff going on...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Space really is the issue but I'd much rather use a huge external PSU with a smaller amp chassis. I'd like to have a tube rectified PSU with large oil caps and plenty of chokes. CT transformers aren't a problem since I'll use Tango, Tamura or Sowter._

 

ya, problem is finding suitable transformers. For example, I couldn't find any high VA R-core transformers suitable for a 1kV amp, so I had to use toroids. Is such a thing even possible?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ya, problem is finding suitable transformers. For example, I couldn't find any high VA R-core transformers suitable for a 1kV amp, so I had to use toroids. Is such a thing even possible?_

 

I think it is possible but it won't be cheap. The transformers used in the 845/GM70 amps should be plenty for a Blue Hawaii.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another way would be to use something like Molex sockets and mount them is some material to create a good connector. Wood or nylon would work, heck I've even used glue._

 

Right. Use the original plug to make a template, then drill holes and seat molex sockets in them. You could start with a chunk of a poly cutting board. 

 Come to think of it, if you had a clay-like substance with enough shrinkage, you could use the plug to make the impression, cure whatever putty it is however it's done, and seat the sockets in that. Offhand i can't think of a likely material, though.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it is possible but it won't be cheap. The transformers used in the 845/GM70 amps should be plenty for a Blue Hawaii._

 

true. Plitron makes some single-ended 300B toroids (also for parallelled 300B):

PLITRON - audio transformers - toroidal transformers - toroids - output transformers - current transformers - power transformers - medical isolation transformers - power toroids

 they run about $400-$500 each.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right. Use the original plug to make a template, then drill holes and seat molex sockets in them. You could start with a chunk of a poly cutting board. 

 Come to think of it, if you had a clay-like substance with enough shrinkage, you could use the plug to make the impression, cure whatever putty it is however it's done, and seat the sockets in that. Offhand i can't think of a likely material, though._

 

It's a very good way to get past these connector issues. The molex connectors are cheaper then cheap since we all have heaps of old computer PSU's. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_true. Plitron makes some single-ended 300B toroids (also for parallelled 300B):

PLITRON - audio transformers - toroidal transformers - toroids - output transformers - current transformers - power transformers - medical isolation transformers - power toroids

 they run about $400-$500 each._

 

Since the 845 needs at least 900v volts to sound good there are some transformers out there capable of that. Here is the Tamura list.


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how much do they run for? how do these compare to

 i'm deciding between this and a DT880 and SOHA amp (which i will be able to use with my other headphones.. i havn't even had an amp or dac yet)_

 

I'm no Staxpert, but I did just go through the whole process of researching my own entry into the electrostatic world about a month ago. The 2050 comes in two flavors: the gray market 2050a, intended for Japan but which you can get for $450ish, and the official export model 2050 II, which runs about 50% more. The wrinkle with the 2050a is that they're wired for 100v instead of 110-120, so you'll need to find a replacement power supply, either another wall wart or a bench supply.

 If you already have a good power amp (as opposed to a headphone amp), and a little time to look, you can get vintage 'phones and a transformer box for a good bit cheaper. The process I used:

 1) Dig into the Stax threads to find out which Stax models most folks think are worth owning. In my case, I decided to look for an SR-X III, a Sigma, or a Lambda (other than Pro, which are somewhat controversial). 

 2) Lurk on the For Sale forums/Audiogon/Ebay to get an idea of current prices -- keeping in mind that some of these vintage units have been going for outrageous amounts lately. But not always.

 3) Watch those same places for a reasonable price on something within your budget. In my case, it took me 4-6 weeks to find an SR-X mk. III and SRD-7 adaptor for $230ish on eBay, got it in good condition, and have been very happy (for the whole week that I've had the thing).

 I hope I'm not being unnecessarily pedantic about something as simple as bidding on eBay -- I just wanted to get the messages across that there doesn't seem to be a "best Stax vintage headphone", and that the prices on this stuff are more variable than you might expect.

 That said -- someone scored some kind of Lambda and amp on Ebay for about $360 last week. I'm very jealous!


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sounds good!

 I have plans for a BH case as well, if you're interested. Probably not as fancy as Alex's will be... It won't be cheap but uses a 16" pieces of this for heatsinks. I may have the case ready for the meet, but I don't think the amp will be totally cased up before then.... just too much stuff going on..._

 

Forget that stuff - we have got some heatsinks ready to roll. I'll see if they have more - already black anodized and dirt cheap.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_3) Watch those same places for a reasonable price on something within your budget. In my case, it took me 4-6 weeks to find an SR-X mk. III and SRD-7 adaptor for $230ish on eBay, got it in good condition, and have been very happy (for the whole week that I've had the thing).

 I hope I'm not being unnecessarily pedantic about something as simple as bidding on eBay -- I just wanted to get the messages across that there doesn't seem to be a "best Stax vintage headphone", and that the prices on this stuff are more variable than you might expect.

 That said -- someone scored some kind of Lambda and amp on Ebay for about $360 last week. I'm very jealous!_

 


 I just wanted to underscore the variability of prices. The SR-X III + SRD-7 combo has for years been recommended at a target price of $150ish. Mine, a few months back, was just over $90 shipped. 

 I've also seen a run-of-the-mill low-bias SRD-7 sell by itself for almost $80.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to underscore the variability of prices. The SR-X III + SRD-7 combo has for years been recommended at a target price of $150ish. Mine, a few months back, was just over $90 shipped. 

 I've also seen a run-of-the-mill low-bias SRD-7 sell by itself for almost $80._

 

The price you found was absurdly low, though, Eric. I watched both the German and US markets like a hawk for four months waiting for a deal on a pair, and the cheapest I ever saw was $140 shipped with transformer, and that was an iffy pair. $150 is now the low end for a good pair. Personally, in retrospect I wish I'd just paid the extra $30 or $40 and procured a pair sooner than I did.

 I also think, as I have said before, that the best deal in vintage Staxdom is the SR-5. Very nearly as good as an SR-X and more musical, easier to find, and tend to sell for about $50 less. And nothing cheaper with the word "Stax" on it comes close.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it is possible but it won't be cheap. The transformers used in the 845/GM70 amps should be plenty for a Blue Hawaii._

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking also. I was thinking about looking into NOS transformers from 845/211 amps. I plan on checking with a pal of mine but it'll have to wait a couple of weeks. He's doing last minute stuff for CES and then he'll be there for the run of the show. I was thinking about a shunt regulation for the signal amp and constant current sources for the tubes.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1)In my case, I decided to look for an SR-X III, a Sigma, or a Lambda (other than Pro, which are somewhat controversial)._

 

The Sigma and Sigma Pro are the most controversial Stax models.
 I think that most people consider the Lambda Pro near the top in the series. Hence the ridicules prices used.


----------



## audiod

SR-007 vs. SR-007mk2 Update:
 I think that my new Mk2’s are almost fully broken in (the sound quality seems stable). In a direct comparison the 007 still sounds a little louder (it measures 1.3 db). The biggest difference is the midbass, lower midrange and very top. The Mk2 is more pronounced in the midbass and lower midrange. Close miked male voices can sound a little chesty, On the other hand close miked female voices sound very real and intimate, the 007’s in direct comparison sound thin and a little nasal. The Mk2 sounds a little smoother on the very top (or maybe less pronounced). Voices are less sibilant with the Mk2. On Classical music and acoustic Jazz the 007 seems to be a little more detailed and better at retrieving ambiance cues. The Mk2 sounds great at louder volumes with Pop and Rock. The difference between the two is not great, but noticeable. I think that most people with the 007 will not have much reason to change. I do like the real sheepskin leather earpads. I plan on upgrading the earpads on my 007BL’s. I did most of my listening on my SRM-717, but did some on my 007t. I listen to a lot of vinyl and the Mk2 is more forgiving of record noise. Going from the Mk2 to a Lambda is quite a shock, people that like the Lambda snap may not like the Mk2. I was hoping for a clear winner so I could sell the loser. At this moment some material favors one over the other. I also want to let the Mk2 fully break in (whenever that is) before I make my final decision.


----------



## Faust2D

After the Brooklyn mini-meet I have been listening for a bit now with Spritzer's Magnavox 1A9217 (what a gear name for OEM Stax SR-5 wannabe) and I have have to say they sound very nice. Very nice midrange and overall pleasant presentation. They seem to fit a bit loose on my head, I think it is because the bottom if the headphones is not tight against it. I like them way better than Erik's Koss ESP-6 and better than the Superex. SR-X was a bit nicer for sure, but I was not overly impressed with it. The soundstage sucked and as a result SR-X feels very claustrophobic to me.

 I listened to quite a few new electrostatic, ortho and dynamic headphones today and have to say my SR-303 and especially SR-Lambdas, to my ears, sound better than all of them. Yay for Lambdas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Well I did like YH-100 a lot


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ... I listened to quite a few new electrostatic, ortho and dynamic headphones today and have to say my SR-303 and espacialy SR-Lambdas, to my ears, sound better than all of them. Yay for Lambdas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well I did like YH-100 a lot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Agreed - Yay for Lambda! X 2!! 
 I have both the SR303 and SR Lambda and they are my two favorites, and I've owned many of the better headphones. I think I prefer the Lambdas by a nose but not absolutely sure yet.


----------



## facelvega

Ah, the Brooklyn mini-meet. I must say I'm ready for some Lambdas. I still prefer the Superex to the Magnavox by a hair (though I didn't at first listen), and the SR-X to both, but I agree that the Lambdas sweep the field, and that the Koss are the weakest of the lot. The SR-001 were very nice, though I did notice the rolled-off treble. I would also argue that my YH-100 and A250 didn't shame themselves in this noble company, and even the Pro 30 did quite well. I also found that I preferred the QP85 to the Float II. We had some other good headphones on hand, like F2D's AT A900 and MB QP70, but as you might imagine they didn't get much time in this company.

 One interesting discrepancy was between F2D's SR-Lambda and his 303: at first listen, I preferred the old normal-bias version, though they sounded quite similar. After a little more time, I came to appreciate the flatter and more extended 303, but still the old Lambda was particularly pleasing and probably wins for my ear. Hey, I could live with either one, though.

 One more thought: the SR-X was better from an SRD-6sb, the others better from an SRM-1 mkII.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, I got my SR-Lambda and SRD-X with 1/4" plug for $230 shipped with 8 new "c" cells included. This is nice because I don't need a dedicated speaker amp for it, but can use a DAC or smaller headphone amp. However, it was a little above the prices recommended.

 I had to pay another $400 shipped for an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, with pro and normal bias jacks. I was told to expect to pay under $300 for non-pro version and $400-500 for the pro version. I passed on a non-pro version that was $390 from a music store.

 The improvement going from the SRD-X (driven by my DarkVoice 336i) to the SRM-1 Mk2 is pretty remarkable, when driving the same SR-Lambdas. I think I have decided that this is where I am ready to stop with what I have in STAX. 

 I have the Gamma Pro from Spritzer on the way, which are expected to sound different and be good for certain genres of music. But, I don't see myself needing to move up to anything else after these SR-Lambda and SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would also argue that my YH-100 and A250 didn't shame themselves in this noble company, and even the Pro 30 did quite well. I also found that I preferred the QP85 to the Float II. We had some other good headphones on hand, like F2D's AT A900 and MB QP70, but as you might imagine they didn't get much time in this company._

 

Pro 30 were a nice surprise for me, I am on the lookout for these. I think they can replace my full-size on the go headphones.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The price you found was absurdly low, though, Eric. I watched both the German and US markets like a hawk for four months waiting for a deal on a pair, and the cheapest I ever saw was $140 shipped with transformer, and that was an iffy pair. $150 is now the low end for a good pair. Personally, in retrospect I wish I'd just paid the extra $30 or $40 and procured a pair sooner than I did._

 

"Absurdly Low" is usually my target price. Being a Cheap person takes time and patience. Actually i had set my sights on an ideal of $120 with a grudging acceptance of $150, and got Really Lucky. And to be fair, from the seller's description it could have gotten very sketchy. I hedged my bets that he hooked them up wrong when he tested them, and i won. 

 Extreme Bargain Hunting is a sport, and I have a friend or two who make me look like a piker.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pro 30 were a nice surprise for me, I am on the lookout for these. I think they can replace my full-size on the go headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh yeah. The Pro 30 with damping mods is the Cheap Thrills King. I just wish i could find one with a decent cable on it. 

 They started out with a flat cable that looks scandalously like the flat cables on most Stax electrets, and then coiled it, but not well enough to make it stay coiled. I'm open to suggestions for repairing the coil or repairing the flat, but i don't expect to get any.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how much do they run for? 
 )_

 


 I've seen 2020s for sale for around 300 like new. That is an INCREDIBLE bargain. You can get new 2050s for less than 500 with shipping. Check around, Price Japan seems to be the cheapest, altho Audiocubes II is also competitive. 


 As far as how they compare, in my view there's no comparison. The 202s sound as good as the 303s and 404s to me, maybe a little better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Definitely the bargain of the century. I still use my 2020s as my exclusive nighty-night phones, running stereo TV and iPod through them in the bedroom. They are, in some ways, better at defining the upper midrange than the Omega IIs through KGSS. It's a question of the application; for mid-fi stuff (like my DirecTV receiver's stereo outs and the iPod) the 2020 actually does a BETTER job than the SOTA system downstairs. A little extra pop in the upper mids goes a long way with these sources.

 The 202s will reward you with great sound when driven by a nicer amp and source too, such as the 007T2 I have.

 I just think you can't go wrong, and, just me, but I shy away from the old stuff. I know a lot of folks love and appreciate it and the "hunt" for it, but I'm just not there. 
 Your mileage may vary!


----------



## Duggeh

I havent posted in the glorious head-fi event that is the Stax Thread for far too long. So to be the cheering plant in the crown to Downwinds' speech I say unto you all.

 "Ye! Verily is the 2020/2050 the gateway unto the true path for those who like their drivers charged up. Once the transparent headphone driver is sampled there is no return. Woe betide ye of the HD650 fandom who tryeth its squared shaped goodness."

 I still with regularity enjoy my sessions with the 202 when I use dads rig back home. Its not as good as the O2, or the AMT. But its certainly a step above those (mostly) inferior moving coils.


----------



## eruditass

vintage stuff seems a whole lot cheaper though as i'm looking for a nice entry level, but soo many options!

 looks like i will spend quite a while reading through this thread.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still prefer the Superex to the Magnavox by a hair (though I didn't at first listen), and the SR-X to both, but I agree that the Lambdas sweep the field, and that the Koss are the weakest of the lot.._

 

Another observation: I am listening to Photek - "Solaris" with the Magnavox and the bass is awesome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 These are just the right electrostatic headphones for nice electronic smack-you-upside-the-head bass. Alec Empire - "Futurist" also sounded just splendid; distortion and aggressiveness allover the place, nice.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Oh yeah. The Pro 30 with damping mods is the Cheap Thrills King. I just wish i could find one with a decent cable on it. 

 They started out with a flat cable that looks scandalously like the flat cables on most Stax electrets, and then coiled it, but not well enough to make it stay coiled. I'm open to suggestions for repairing the coil or repairing the flat, but i don't expect to get any._

 

They have lots of nice qualities of Stax headphones and at the same time have a something very alluring about the way that drums sound, so does YH-100 but at a much higher cost. 

 Some cords can be recoiled by wrapping them around a rod and heating the rod slightly so it softens the cord a bit, when it cools down it recoils. I remember doing to my old coiled cord long time ago. You need something like an old hair curling iron that can be made just slightly hot. 

 P.S. If it kills your cable I am not responsible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 202s sound as good as the 303s and 404s to me, maybe a little better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree. I sold my 404's (and my SRM-006t) about a year ago. I wanted to have a backup for my Lambda Pro's so I purchased a 202 from Audiocubes. What a surprise, I liked them. They seem less bright in the upper midrange than the 303 & 404. They are my main phone (along with my SR-003) in my bedroom system. I think that they are a great bargain.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I plan on upgrading the earpads on my 007BL’s._

 

please let us know if you decide to swap the pads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 might be an interesting experiment!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that's what I was thinking also. I was thinking about looking into NOS transformers from 845/211 amps. I plan on checking with a pal of mine but it'll have to wait a couple of weeks. He's doing last minute stuff for CES and then he'll be there for the run of the show. I was thinking about a shunt regulation for the signal amp and constant current sources for the tubes._

 

NOS is definitely the way to go if you can find the right units. The only sure mods I know I'll do to the amp section is a transformer phase splitter as I'm going SE only from now on. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007 vs. SR-007mk2 Update:
 I think that my new Mk2’s are almost fully broken in (the sound quality seems stable). In a direct comparison the 007 still sounds a little louder (it measures 1.3 db). The biggest difference is the midbass, lower midrange and very top. The Mk2 is more pronounced in the midbass and lower midrange. Close miked male voices can sound a little chesty, On the other hand close miked female voices sound very real and intimate, the 007’s in direct comparison sound thin and a little nasal. The Mk2 sounds a little smoother on the very top (or maybe less pronounced). Voices are less sibilant with the Mk2. On Classical music and acoustic Jazz the 007 seems to be a little more detailed and better at retrieving ambiance cues. The Mk2 sounds great at louder volumes with Pop and Rock. The difference between the two is not great, but noticeable. I think that most people with the 007 will not have much reason to change. I do like the real sheepskin leather earpads. I plan on upgrading the earpads on my 007BL’s. I did most of my listening on my SRM-717, but did some on my 007t. I listen to a lot of vinyl and the Mk2 is more forgiving of record noise. Going from the Mk2 to a Lambda is quite a shock, people that like the Lambda snap may not like the Mk2. I was hoping for a clear winner so I could sell the loser. At this moment some material favors one over the other. I also want to let the Mk2 fully break in (whenever that is) before I make my final decision._

 

Thanks for the update. Have you done any experiments with bending the metal arcs and position on the head?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After the Brooklyn mini-meet I have been listening for a bit now with Spritzer's Magnavox 1A9217 (what a gear name for OEM Stax SR-5 wannabe) and I have have to say they sound very nice. Very nice midrange and overall pleasant presentation. They seem to fit a bit loose on my head, I think it is because the bottom if the headphones is not tight against it. I like them way better than Erik's Koss ESP-6 and better than the Superex. SR-X was a bit nicer for sure, but I was not overly impressed with it. The soundstage sucked and as a result SR-X feels very claustrophobic to me.

 I listened to quite a few new electrostatic, ortho and dynamic headphones today and have to say my SR-303 and especially SR-Lambdas, to my ears, sound better than all of them. Yay for Lambdas! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well I did like YH-100 a lot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Magnavox name is absurd... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try bending the metal part of the headband a bit to make them clamp harder. Should solve any fit issues.


----------



## Afrikane

Excuse the intrusion on the usual Stax thread banter; my 007A arrived this afternoon and are charging up as I post this. In the mean time some pics with listening impressions to follow a little later. (Please excuse the poor pic quality, point and shoot is all I had time for.)


----------



## naamanf

If anything else they look very very nice. Great pics! Let us know how they sound.


----------



## spritzer

I think we need some SR-007A and SR-Ω pr0n...


----------



## Downrange

Thanks to all, and especially Audiod, for the updates and pix of the SR-007A. I'm wondering if they're worth the 200 dollar difference at most internet outlets? Doesn't sound like it, especially if the discontinued models fit your ears OK. I'm on watchout for a price dump on the old ones.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so what is the cheapest decent entry into home stax?_

 

There are several ways to enter the Stax-world. First of all depending if you want to gg for a vintage system, or buy new.

 Vintage:
 * SR-Lambda (Pro), with a matching energizer/amplifier. Ex. an SRD-7 (Pro) or SRM-1/MK2. Should be yours for around $3-500.
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7. Around $250-300, if you are lucky to find one.

 New:
 * SRS-2050A system. SR-202 headphones and SRM-252A amplifier.
 €324 ($470) from PriceJapan.com
 * SRS-005A system. SR-003 headphones and SRM-252A amplifier.
 $399 from Audio Cubes II

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to underscore the variability of prices. The SR-X III + SRD-7 combo has for years been recommended at a target price of $150ish. Mine, a few months back, was just over $90 shipped. 

 I've also seen a run-of-the-mill low-bias SRD-7 sell by itself for almost $80._

 

Yes, the price on vintage gear certainly varies a lot.
 Some months back I scored a very nice condition SR-X/MK3 and an SRD-7 *MK2* for $140. Nice price since the SRD-7 MK2 alone sell for more than I paid for the complete system...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007 vs. SR-007mk2 Update:
 I think that my new Mk2’s are almost fully broken in (the sound quality seems stable). In a direct comparison the 007 still sounds a little louder (it measures 1.3 db). The biggest difference is the midbass, lower midrange and very top. The Mk2 is more pronounced in the midbass and lower midrange. Close miked male voices can sound a little chesty, On the other hand close miked female voices sound very real and intimate, the 007’s in direct comparison sound thin and a little nasal. The Mk2 sounds a little smoother on the very top (or maybe less pronounced). Voices are less sibilant with the Mk2. On Classical music and acoustic Jazz the 007 seems to be a little more detailed and better at retrieving ambiance cues. The Mk2 sounds great at louder volumes with Pop and Rock. The difference between the two is not great, but noticeable. I think that most people with the 007 will not have much reason to change. I do like the real sheepskin leather earpads. I plan on upgrading the earpads on my 007BL’s. I did most of my listening on my SRM-717, but did some on my 007t. I listen to a lot of vinyl and the Mk2 is more forgiving of record noise. Going from the Mk2 to a Lambda is quite a shock, people that like the Lambda snap may not like the Mk2. I was hoping for a clear winner so I could sell the loser. At this moment some material favors one over the other. I also want to let the Mk2 fully break in (whenever that is) before I make my final decision._

 

Thanks a lot for keeping us updated on the SR-007BL vs. SR-007 MKII.
 Seems like there are no major audible difference between them, and that I am not missing out of much with my SR-007BL's. Thank god! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excuse the intrusion on the usual Stax thread banter; my 007A arrived this afternoon and are charging up as I post this. In the mean time some pics with listening impressions to follow a little later. (Please excuse the poor pic quality, point and shoot is all I had time for.)

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6...07a6781uk3.jpg
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9...07a6783sj2.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5...07a6785xj2.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/6...07a6789fj5.jpg_

 

Awesome pictures. As usual from you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-007A certainly look great. Not very different to the SR-007BL though...


----------



## Downrange

Just one addition to a great post, Kai, you can OFTEN find 2020s and 2050s used, for around 300. I've seen many, many sets for sale in that range.
 And, imo, they are vastly superior to the Lambdas they replaced, jmho!!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the update. Have you done any experiments with bending the metal arcs and position on the head?_

 

Yes.. Plenty. My second set of Mk2 has about the same headband tension as my 007. The fit is good and sealed. I like the sound the best with the earpad stitches facing forward (same as my 007). My first set the headband was loose on my head.


----------



## AudioCats

ok, now I seriously need some 6 pin connectors, both male and female..... I know the link is in this thread somewhere, but I couldn't find it anymore, does anybody know where I can get the connectors in the US?

 Thanks!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The improvement going from the SRD-X (driven by my DarkVoice 336i) to the SRM-1 Mk2 is pretty remarkable, when driving the same SR-Lambdas. I think I have decided that this is where I am ready to stop with what I have in STAX. 
_

 

Haha. Famous last words!


----------



## pipoplus

I have just bought a SR-Lambda Pro Classic with the foam inside the earspeakers totaly gone. The rest is in perfect condition. 
 The smoke smell is almost completely gone, thanks to my plasma light (you know with lightning inside the bowl) as an Ozon generator ! (tip)

 My question:
 How harmful is it to run the earspeakers Without the foam . Are hear, dust, etc. easy killers for the drivers? 
 If so, what is the best material for making replacements
 I like to keep the sound the way it is.

 Another question: How do the non-pro Lambda's compare to the pro ones


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha. Famous last words!_

 

Yeah, they'll come back to bite me in the *****


----------



## Afrikane

Some very early SR-007A impressions: Caveat, I no longer have a 007 MK1 to directly A/B.
 I must have a head that is perfectly suited to the 007xx series because I get a perfect fit without any futzing with the metal frames so I have no complaints on that front. The wells on the earpads do seem a little bigger than on the Mk1, my ears do not touch as many points in inside the wells. The so called Stax fart has also seemingly disappeared however more testing is required before this becomes a categorical statement. The lambskin leather is very soft and comfortable, just like with the MK1 I did not experience any fatigue from wearing them. The leather head strap is a tad thicker offering a little more cushioning on the top of your head, a nice touch. So, Stax have made some comfort tweaks which is great but the differences are slight and not reason enough to dump your MK1 for the new model which in my opinion is very comfortable anyway. Aesthetically the silver/black look is very pleasing, much better in real life than my point 'n shoot pics actually convey. For instance the pics over emphasise the beading on the metal, in the flesh so to speak this effect is much more muted. As with all matters of taste, YMMV.

 It did not take long to determine that the best ear pad position for me is exactly the same as on the MK1 which is with the seams tilted up to point at my temples. Right out of the box I had a sense of déjà vu, much of what I remember the MK1 to sound like was there. Excellent top to bottom extension, good soundstage and pinpoint imaging, brilliant detail retrieval that is not thrown in your face and the same slightly laid back overall character. With only about 3 hours of listening under the belt I cannot of course make any definitive pronouncements about specific 007A traits but so far I have heard no sonic vulgarities and overall I am pleased that Stax have not deviated significantly from what was in my opinion one of the finest headphones I have heard. However, if the Stax fart does prove to be a thing of the past then some who found it problematic might be tempted to switch to the newer model. I will be testing this aspect later on today after work and will post my findings. 
 The coming days/weeks will reveal more as I get back into listening with critical ears, a habit I successfully suppressed sometime ago.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How harmful is it to run the earspeakers Without the foam .

 Another question: How do the non-pro Lambda's compare to the pro ones_

 

Using the Lambda without the foam is no harm at all. Almost all the old Lambda’s are missing the foam. The driver has a Mylar dust shield. When you buy replacement earpads it also replaces the foam.

 The original SR-Lambda is one of my favorites. They have the nicest tonal balance of the series. The Pro’s are more dynamic, have better extension, more recessed in the midrange and are a little more detailed. The Pro is not as even in tonal balance as the SR-Lambda. IMO the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro are the most enjoyable models in the entire series. Many of the newer models are more detailed but introduce irritating response aberrations that are hard to tame.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes.. Plenty. My second set of Mk2 has about the same headband tension as my 007. The fit is good and sealed. I like the sound the best with the earpad stitches facing forward (same as my 007). My first set the headband was loose on my head._

 

Ok thanks for clarifying that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok, now I seriously need some 6 pin connectors, both male and female..... I know the link is in this thread somewhere, but I couldn't find it anymore, does anybody know where I can get the connectors in the US?

 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Allied Electronics part numbers

 78-S6S is the socket
 86-71-6S is the plug


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we need some SR-007A and SR-Ω pr0n... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Afrikane's photo skills and camera are much better than mine.

 I try to make up for bad quality photography with "doubles."


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Using the Lambda without the foam is no harm at all. Almost all the old Lambda’s are missing the foam. The driver has a Mylar dust shield. When you buy replacement earpads it also replaces the foam.

 The original SR-Lambda is one of my favorites. They have the nicest tonal balance of the series. The Pro’s are more dynamic, have better extension, more recessed in the midrange and are a little more detailed. The Pro is not as even in tonal balance as the SR-Lambda. IMO the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro are the most enjoyable models in the entire series. Many of the newer models are more detailed but introduce irritating response aberrations that are hard to tame._

 

That was the exact advice I got that led me to buy plaidplatypus's SR-Lambdas in November, instead of anything else as my first Electrostatic rig.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Afrikane's photo skills and camera are much better than mine.

 I try to make up for bad quality photography with "doubles."




_

 

Oh my!
 Here I have been looking for an SR-Omega for more than one (1) year, without any luck at all. While you are lucky enough to own two of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Looking good though!


----------



## xenithon

Gee, thanks Elephas....it's only the 4th of January and you just caused me to break one of my new year's resolutions - _do not become jealous or envious of what others may have_


----------



## ferraro25

I've decided to boost the bass quite a bit (from 50% to ~64% in windows vol. control and not using the X-Fi Crystallizer, of course) out to the 202, and am happy with the results. Bass is not overpowering, but is now noticeable along with the rest of the spectrum, whereas before it was almost always far in the background. Amount of bass on the 202 is even less than that of the K501, from my experience. It probably wasn't that way when I first got the 202; the 202 seemed to output more bass than the 501 in the first several weeks. I'll assume that burn-in is likely real with electrostatics.

 Still satisfied in the sound enough to not check out head-fi at all except to post messages like this.


----------



## John Buchanan

I must admit I'm surprised to hear of needing to boost the bass on the Lambda 202s. The Lambda Nova Signatures need no bass boost at all - more likely an upper midrange taming, but even that you get used to. The dynamics of the 202s should be good. Any channel imbalances with the drivers?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Afrikane's photo skills and camera are much better than mine.

 I try to make up for bad quality photography with "doubles."
_

 

Nice, two Omegas! I wounder what percentage of entire Omega production is owned by the people registered on this forum.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice, two Omegas! I wounder what percentage of entire Omega production is owned by the people registered on this forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Around 3-4%, if I am not totally wrong.
 There were made about 400 SR-Omega's, and somewhere around 10-15 of them belong to Head-Fi'ers.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Around 3-4%, if I am not totally wrong.
 There were made about 400 SR-Omega's, and somewhere around 10-15 of them belong to Head-Fi'ers._

 

I imagine 200 are probably collecting dust somewhere, 50 are in occasional use and 20 were broken and tossed.

 In my imagination It's a cruel world.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I must admit I'm surprised to hear of needing to boost the bass on the Lambda 202s. The Lambda Nova Signatures need no bass boost at all - more likely an upper midrange taming, but even that you get used to. The dynamics of the 202s should be good. Any channel imbalances with the drivers?_

 

Any Lambda with bass boost is ridiculous. They already have boomy bass by electrostatic standards. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice, two Omegas! I wounder what percentage of entire Omega production is owned by the people registered on this forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's very, very low. I can think of 7 units off the top of my head and I must be missing some out of the roughly 500 units produced. 

 That's nothing compared to the HE90 ratio. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I imagine 200 are probably collecting dust somewhere, 50 are in occasional use and 20 were broken and tossed.

 In my imagination It's a cruel world._

 

The SR-Omegas are dropping like flies recently as I've heard of three units developing issues... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'd like to try a SR-omega frame with the much, much better Sr-007 drivers. Could be a very interesting combination.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice, two Omegas! I wounder what percentage of entire Omega production is owned by the people registered on this forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Searching the members list for "omega" and "007" in headphone inventory turns up 21 and 14 entries, with only two overlaps and billinkansas still in though now omega-less. One should assume that there are as many again in the hands of those who never filled out their profile or whose profiles were deleted in the big head-fi outage and who haven't got around to filling them back in. Very likely a number of lurkers or 1-10 post members also have them, but I guess they don't really count as head-fiers. Still, I'd estimate 60 pairs on Head-fi between the Omega and Omega II. Against this I count only 3 Orpheus sets.


----------



## milkpowder

Surely there are more than three Orpheus sets in the Head-fi community?


----------



## xenithon

Out of interest - is there anyone here who is pairing up (or has heard) an SR-007 with a Benchmark DAC1 as a source?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Searching the members list for "omega" and "007" in headphone inventory turns up 21 and 14 entries, with only two overlaps and billinkansas still in though now omega-less. One should assume that there are as many again in the hands of those who never filled out their profile or whose profiles were deleted in the big head-fi outage and who haven't got around to filling them back in. Very likely a number of lurkers or 1-10 post members also have them, but I guess they don't really count as head-fiers. Still, I'd estimate 60 pairs on Head-fi between the Omega and Omega II. Against this I count only 3 Orpheus sets._

 

There are plenty of O2's but the O1 is very, very rare. It took me 4 years to find a cheap one in good condition. Most of the O2 owners don't post much as they already have what they want... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely there are more than three Orpheus sets in the Head-fi community?_

 

If I remember correctly then there are at least 10-15 full setups. Add that to all the single headphones floating around.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely there are more than three Orpheus sets in the Head-fi community?_

 

NeilVG has three to himself doesnt he? Bozebuttons has 2 or 3 as well I think.

 Also WMcManus, Spritzer, Afrikane, JJcha, Hirsch, Foo_me, Nomad all have a set.

 super2003 and seacard used to own pairs.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NeilVG has three to himself doesnt he? Bozebuttons has 2 or 3 as well I think.

 Also WMcManus, Spritzer, Afrikane, JJcha, Hirsch, Foo_me, Nomad all have a set.

 super2003 and seacard used to own pairs._

 

Most of us only have HE90's (I wouldn't want to own the amp even if you'd pay me to take it off your hands) and many of those listed have sold theirs.


----------



## naamanf

I have $5000 if you want to take this HEV90 off me


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely there are more than three Orpheus sets in the Head-fi community?_

 

kinda ironic huh that so few own what so many claim to be the "best" they've ever heard


----------



## rickreedsr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xenithon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of interest - is there anyone here who is pairing up (or has heard) an SR-007 with a Benchmark DAC1 as a source?_

 

I am running the Stax O2s/SRM-007tii combo with a Benchmark DAC1/USB with a computer as my source. I am VERY pleased with the results.


----------



## Elephas

The HE90 + Aristaeus is the best I've heard.

 Uh, oh, am I going to be demoted by "this Stax thing of ours" again?

 But I was listening to the SR-Omega when the photo was taken! (This one is for milkpowder)


----------



## milkpowder

^^

 rt click -> save image as 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I didn't see the Aristeus coming. Aren't/weren't you waiting for the ES-1 and some other monster dynamic SP amp?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_kinda ironic huh that so few own what so many claim to be the "best" they've ever heard 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Most of the "claims" would've been from short auditions at meets and what-nots... I guess only a very small proportion of Head-Fi can actually say they've had extensive experience with the Orpheus and even less with the HE90/HEV90 set.

 The DAC1 is, I'm guessing from my meet-limited experience, a good match for the O2 because it has quite a pure, detailed no-frills sound signature. The times I've heard the O2 I've thought of it as quite a "wet", "dark" headphone. For that reason I also think my relatively dry, analytical, crisp-sounding (even more so than the DAC1) 740c would be a great source for the O2 too.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Omegas are dropping like flies recently as I've heard of three units developing issues... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'd like to try a SR-omega frame with the much, much better Sr-007 drivers. Could be a very interesting combination._

 

So would I.
 But its close to impossible to get hold of an SR-Omega for a fair price. Not counting those who sell for $3500-4000...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So would I.
 But its close to impossible to get hold of an SR-Omega for a fair price. Not counting those who sell for $3500-4000..._

 

What, for you, is a fair price for SR-Omega?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE90 + Aristaeus is the best I've heard.

 Uh, oh, am I going to be demoted by "this Stax thing of ours" again?

 But I was listening to the SR-Omega when the photo was taken! (This one is for milkpowder)_

 

The Aristaeus and the HEV90 might be similar but they are certainly not the same. The HEV90 is built like a 700$ Chinese amp which the Aristaeus is not.


----------



## smeggy

I resigned myself long ago to the likeliness I'll never hear either the Omega or the Orfy. It's a tragedy! Still, can't miss what you've never had on your noggin. I'm fairly happy in my self-imposed delusion that my SR-X and K1000 are the best phones ever made 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have to say they actually are the best I've heard to date so it's not a bad delusion to have. Stax stats FTW!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What, for you, is a fair price for SR-Omega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Around $1500 for a working pair.
 I believe Birgir scored his pair for even less (around $1200). And I know a pair sold for $1700 on eBay last year.


----------



## Downrange

Elephas: 




 Nice rack!!!


----------



## eruditass

so my sister may be going to japan soon, and well that looks like a great opportunity to get a stax system.

 where should i look for these kinds of things? entry level. new/used.

 and ahh for vintage phones someone needs to make a consolidated summary 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 edit: forgive my newbness but what is the difference between an adaptor and amplifier? adaptor i NEED a speaker amplifier? well that will kindof defeat the purpose of why i'm buying these.. to use while someone is using the speaker setup.


----------



## krmathis

Yes, that seems like a great opportunity.
 You probably want to buy a new system, even if I am sure you can make a deal on a vintage system through ex. Yahoo Japan and organize a local pick up.

 I am sure there are stores in all major cities who sell new Stax systems, at a price lower than "over here". I suggest you define your budget and take a look at PriceJapan to find a suitable system... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Amplifier vs. Energizer/Adapter.
 * Amplifier. As the name say they amplify the signal and take signal level input and a Stax headphone in the other end.
 * Energizer/Adapter. Need a speaker amplifier to amplify the signal, which in turn are stepped up to drive the headphone. It also add bias supply.


----------



## Capunk

Omega II owner, when I search Stax on ebay, I see "Stax SR-007A" and the seller mention this is the 2008 model? Does it have any differences with previous model? and why Stax web doesn't mention this? 

 Also, is it better for new O2 buyer to order KGSS (from Headamp) or get the SRM-007-tII or SRM-717-II driver from Stax?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Omega II owner, when I search Stax on ebay, I see "Stax SR-007A" and the seller mention this is the 2008 model? Does it have any differences with previous model? and why Stax web doesn't mention this?_

 

The SR-007A sure are mentioned on the Stax website! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



–{ŠvƒCƒ„[ƒpƒbƒhÌ—p@ƒnƒCƒGƒ“ƒhƒCƒ„[ƒXƒs[ƒJ[SR-007A

 Like Stax have done with their amplifier for some time they call the export model *MK2* and the Japanese model *A*. That goes for their amplifier, and now the SR-007 MK2 / A as well.

 There are differences between the previous SR-007 (BL) versions, and the current SR-007 MK2 / A. Like:
 * Different colors (black/black or black/silver, compared to brown/champagne or black/champagne).
 * Reconstructed earpads (more like the SR-Omega ones).
 * Minor audible differences (unsure if they have modified the drivers).

  Quote:


 Also, is it better for new O2 buyer to order KGSS (from Headamp) or get the SRM-007-tII or SRM-717-II driver from Stax? 
 

Define "better" please. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Better as in value for money? Better as in easier to get a hold of? Better as in higher sound quality? Or ...?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Elephas: 

 Nice rack!!!_

 

I thought someone would say something about my craptastic audio rack. It actually wobbles when I push on the top shelf. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm working on it. Choosing a rack is much more difficult than choosing a headphone, you know.


----------



## tensaichen

How does one know the whether an driver unit is sufficient is drive a certain earspeaker? For example, SRM-3xx is usually paired with SR-303, but would anything go wrong if you plug SR-404 into it? Or even SR-007?

 I know 404 is very similar to 303, but would anything bad happen to the SR-007 if it's plugged into a SRM-3xx or does it just sound bad?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one know the whether an driver unit is sufficient is drive a certain earspeaker? For example, SRM-3xx is usually paired with SR-303, but would anything go wrong if you plug SR-404 into it? Or even SR-007?

 I know 404 is very similar to 303, but would anything bad happen to the SR-007 if it's plugged into a SRM-3xx or does it just sound bad?_

 

All Pro bias (580v) Stax 'phones and amplifiers/energizers are interchangeable.
 The Pro bias 'phones are even backwards compatible with the older Normal bias (230v) amplifiers/energizers.

 So you wont harm the 'phones in any way if you plug an SR-007 into an SRM-3xx or similar. You will only loose sound quality.


----------



## Capunk

Quote:


 Define "better" please.
 Better as in value for money? Better as in easier to get a hold of? Better as in higher sound quality? Or ...? 
 

Both or Tri-both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Since "Stax SRM-007tA Driver Unit" cost $1.599 USD (according to AC2), and KGSS $1.499 USD - KGSS $100 cheaper, but longer waiting time. 
 But How do they sound? KGSS = Solid State and 007tA driver = Tubes?


----------



## randerson3024

The SRM-007t was a tube amplifier. Stax is currently selling the SRM -007t II for approximately $1800. I have the original unit, and it sounds very good, I have not heard the MK2 yet. Justin also sells tube amps, the Blue Hawaii, you may want to check it out.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both or Tri-both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Since "Stax SRM-007tA Driver Unit" cost $1.599 USD (according to AC2), and KGSS $1.499 USD - KGSS $100 cheaper, but longer waiting time. 
 But How do they sound? KGSS = Solid State and 007tA driver = Tubes?_

 


 I would go for the KGSS or a SRM-717 (out of production). Both are high output amps. The SRM-007t is a nice unit for the Lambda series but a little under powered for the SR-007. It also does not have the extension that is needed for the SR-007 to be at it's best. I love the SRM-717, but the new version (SRM-727II) is bland and lifeless sounding. Used 717's can be had for $900-1100 on eBay or Audiogon.

 The difference between the KGSS and 717 are quite noticeable. The 717 is more laidback in the midrange and retrieves ambiance and subtle detail better. The KGSS is more forward and direct with dynamic punch. I prefer the 717’s presentation and huge headstage. You can’t really go wrong with either.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought someone would say something about my craptastic audio rack. It actually wobbles when I push on the top shelf. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm working on it. Choosing a rack is much more difficult than choosing a headphone, you know._

 

Amen to that!! I'm leaning towards SRA but nearly 10k$ for a rack is a slight overkill...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one know the whether an driver unit is sufficient is drive a certain earspeaker? For example, SRM-3xx is usually paired with SR-303, but would anything go wrong if you plug SR-404 into it? Or even SR-007?

 I know 404 is very similar to 303, but would anything bad happen to the SR-007 if it's plugged into a SRM-3xx or does it just sound bad?_

 

It will power them ok but you simply have to experience the difference. For some it may be subtle but for others it is a gigantic leap. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRM-007t was a tube amplifier. Stax is currently selling the SRM -007t II for approximately $1800. I have the original unit, and it sounds very good, I have not heard the MK2 yet. Justin also sells tube amps, the Blue Hawaii, you may want to check it out._

 

Hi Bob...


----------



## randerson3024

Excuse me, this message was mistaken.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would go for the KGSS or a SRM-717 (out of production). Both are high output amps. The SRM-007t is a nice unit for the Lambda series but a little under powered for the SR-007. It also does not have the extension that is needed for the SR-007 to be at it's best. I love the SRM-717, but the new version (SRM-727II) is bland and lifeless sounding. Used 717's can be had for $900-1100 on eBay or Audiogon.

 The difference between the KGSS and 717 are quite noticeable. The 717 is more laidback in the midrange and retrieves ambiance and subtle detail better. The KGSS is more forward and direct with dynamic punch. I prefer the 717’s presentation and huge headstage. You can’t really go wrong with either._

 

I agree, I have an SRM 727 that sounds surprisingly good with the Omegas and HE 90's. It is weak, however, on the 4070's.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE90 + Aristaeus is the best I've heard.

 Uh, oh, am I going to be demoted by "this Stax thing of ours" again?

 But I was listening to the SR-Omega when the photo was taken! (This one is for milkpowder)




_

 

Beautiful system! I have the Esoteric D-03 and P-03 minus the clock. I want to give my dCS Verona a shot before going all out for the clock. I am also conflicted about selling all of my dCS gear. I would like to audition the Scarlatti as well. I recently bought the HE 90's, Omegas, and an Aristeaus. I am completely hooked on electrostatic headphones now. I am selling all of my conventional headphones.

 Very impressive! I have all of my gear crammed into a small stateroom on a ship.

 Cheers.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amen to that!! I'm leaning towards SRA but nearly 10k$ for a rack is a slight overkill...



 It will power them ok but you simply have to experience the difference. For some it may be subtle but for others it is a gigantic leap. 



 Hi Bob... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice to be back on line- I should be in Singapore close to three months. The down side to this as that all of my good gear is stashed away until we leave. I have an iPod, RSA Hornet, and Ultrasones for music. Bummer.

 I am appropriately hungover today, it was a long journey. I am going to try to hit the MBL store this week.

 Cheers, 

 Bob


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both or Tri-both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Since "Stax SRM-007tA Driver Unit" cost $1.599 USD (according to AC2), and KGSS $1.499 USD - KGSS $100 cheaper, but longer waiting time. 
 But How do they sound? KGSS = Solid State and 007tA driver = Tubes?_

 

I have heard neither of them, but own the SRM-007t.
 From what I understand the HeadAmp KGSS is a better buy than the SRM-007tA. If you can stand waiting for the amplifier to be built though (expect several months)..

 The KGSS are solid state, while the SRM-007tA are a hybrid (solid state/tube). You might prefer one of them because of this as well.


 Edit:
 I find the SRM-007t (not A or MKII) to drive the SR-007, 4070, SR-404, etc. very well. But since I have never heard a more powerful amplifier I might miss out on a "lot".
 Audition a system before you decide one way or the other. If possible that is...


----------



## jigster

WELCOME TO [size=large]*SINGAPORE!!!!*[/size]





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice to be back on line- I should be in Singapore close to three months. The down side to this as that all of my good gear is stashed away until we leave. I have an iPod, RSA Hornet, and Ultrasones for music. Bummer.

 I am appropriately hungover today, it was a long journey. I am going to try to hit the MBL store this week.

 Cheers, 

 Bob_


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_WELCOME TO [size=large]*SINGAPORE!!!!*[/size]



_

 


 Thanks, I love it here.


----------



## randerson3024

Has anyone heard the McAlister amps? There is one on Audigon that has my attention.

 Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard the McAlister amps? There is one on Audigon that has my attention.

 Thanks._

 

Stay far away from that stuff. The build and parts quality is horrible


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Beautiful system! I have the Esoteric D-03 and P-03 minus the clock. I want to give my dCS Verona a shot before going all out for the clock. I am also conflicted about selling all of my dCS gear. I would like to audition the Scarlatti as well. I recently bought the HE 90's, Omegas, and an Aristeaus. I am completely hooked on electrostatic headphones now. I am selling all of my conventional headphones._

 

Hi, Bob. I think you're one of the few people who know how good the HE90 + Aristaeus + Esoteric gear sounds, and specifically, this Aristaeus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think you'll also like the SR-Omega + Aristaeus.

 The P-05/D-05 isn't afraid of the X-03SE, but even with the G-03x clock helping out, they would be tentatively cautious going up against the P-03/D-03.

 I listened to a dCS Puccini recently with a speaker system, and it sounded incredibly good. It also looked incredible, much better than in photos. I think its silver smooth shiny metal makes Esoteric's white brushed aluminum look a bit cheap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I thought it was better than the X-03SE, which was the only player available for comparison. But it is also priced in P-03/D-03 territory. The Scarlatti stack should be even better than the Puccini, plus more wallet damage.

 The G-03x clock does improve the P-05/D-05, but the difference isn't very large. With the clock, the music is smoother and more liquid. There's a bit more air and improved notes separation. Individual notes are denser and have a bit more body and weight. The leading edges seem crisper, and the trailing edges seem to retain more details as the note fades away. Overall there's greater sense of realism and 3 dimensionality.


----------



## pabbi1

double...


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stay far away from that stuff. The build and parts quality is horrible_

 

x³


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_x³_

 

That goes for Rudistor as well.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both or Tri-both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Since "Stax SRM-007tA Driver Unit" cost $1.599 USD (according to AC2), and KGSS $1.499 USD - KGSS $100 cheaper, but longer waiting time. 
 But How do they sound? KGSS = Solid State and 007tA driver = Tubes?_

 

Back in August, I was preparing to do a detailed comparison test between the two. I got caught up in work and travel, and basically unplugged everything for about 4 months. I've come back, re-energized (pun intended) and did detailed comparison testing in Dec. to confirm my initial impressions. I'm keeping the KGSS and have put my like new 007TII up for sale. Here's why.

 The KGSS just has more oomph. The voltage swing generated by the 007 is, imo, not quite enough to fully reveal the sources. The KGSS has beau coup oomph, but is not as "delicate." So, it came down to keep the euphonic tube sound of the Stax or the revealing, but slightly more sterile sound of the KGSS. I think some things sound slightly better with the Stax, but, overall, the KGSS sounds better to my ears. 

 I may keep the 007TII if it doesn't sell (it's listed on this forum), because it's much too nice to give away at a huge loss, especially with the U.S. warranty, etc. It also sounds fantastic with the Lambda models 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, maybe I'll get some time this winter and finish that review, but that's the executive summary.


----------



## Downrange

Elephas, I meant it was a "nice rack," not being pejorative.


 Actually, I meant it kind of like double entendre, but what can I say...


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Elephas, I meant it was a "nice rack," not being pejorative.

 Actually, I meant it kind of like double entendre, but what can I say..._

 

Bookmarked, and added to my 2008 list of _desired_ acquisitions.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bookmarked, and added to my 2008 list of _desired_ acquisitions._

 

Well, concerning the Spartan, I can do the servicing if someone else can do the maintenance.


----------



## spritzer

Since everybody is shooting up fireworks like crazy here I think I might spend some time to do a quick comparison on what you gain from using a better amp. While I used the SR-Omega for this comparison it applies to pretty much any ESP. While my SRM-T1 is a very capable amp the switch over to a cold Blue Hawaii, running also in SE mode with the signal looped out of the T1, is pretty startling. 

 The track I used now is Telegraph Road with Dire Straits and on the Blue Hawaii the first thing I noticed is that the bass isn't as boomy and much more subtle and controlled. This applies to extension and depth, it is simply much better integrated into the sound spectrum. The next big change is the ease of the soundstage and the layering and placement of instruments. The sound isn't forced at you, merely placed before the listener to enjoy which is what the Omegas excel at. The voice has it's clear place a little bit back from the main instruments and to the left. With the T1 it's impossible to make this distinction. The slight sibilance that is a trait of the SR-Omega is also almost gone and is just present as a little bit of extra sparkle on notes that shouldn't be there so that is a very big change from the T1 where the sibilance is more apparent, both on instruments and voices.


----------



## eruditass

any comparisons of the SR-X/MK3 with Lambda's or the current offerings?

 my understanding is that the current offerings are more neutral, more airy with more headstage compared to the lambda, though maybe a little strong upper midrange. which side does the sr-x land on? i do care about bass extension.

 if i can score an amplifier will those vintage phones work with it? i don't want to hook it up to a speaker amplifier..


----------



## visualguy

Has anyone heard anything about an updated KGSS design from Justin at HeadAmp?


----------



## Downrange

ariel, no, but there have been numerous upgrades available on Justin's KGSS for a long time, such as different volume controls, bias always on circuit, and Blackgate Capacitors in the DC power supply. 

 Some people think the latter make a big difference, but Justin himself in a thread awhile ago discounted that.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any comparisons of the SR-X/MK3 with Lambda's or the current offerings?

 my understanding is that the current offerings are more neutral, more airy with more headstage compared to the lambda, though maybe a little strong upper midrange. which side does the sr-x land on? i do care about bass extension.

 if i can score an amplifier will those vintage phones work with it? i don't want to hook it up to a speaker amplifier.._

 

Several points of difference. Most SRX3's are low bias, which means less dynamics and oomph than high bias systems. Stax stopped making low bias systems a decade or more back. There are high bias SRX3's but they are as scarce as the proverbial hen's teeth. 

 The SRX3's also lack bass and tend to be somewhat thin sounding.

 Now, on the good side they have an amazing ability to extract details in the sound regions in which they work well, i.e. most of the sonic spectrum except the bass. This is probably why they were noted as monitor phones for many years. Some people suggest they can sound much better with different earpads and have even been using the Omega2 pads.

 I have been enquiring if people wanted to join me in a request to Stax to make a run of replacement SRX3 drivers, pro or regular, because the stock of spares has long since been depleted. 

 Since most of these phones are low bias, make sure the amp has a low bias socket.


----------



## Duggeh

If Stax starts running off SRX drivers again, that would also maybe create a product for them in the market segment between the 202 and the 003/001?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 I have been enquiring if people wanted to join me in a request to Stax to make a run of replacement SRX3 drivers, pro or regular, because the stock of spares has long since been depleted. 
 

I'm in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Having a pair of spare drivers for my SR-5 pro would be great.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If Stax starts running off SRX drivers again, that would also maybe create a product for them in the market segment between the 202 and the 003/001?_

 

Potentially perhaps, assuming they wanted to be in that segment anyway, and that they could do a sufficiently large run to make it profitable to price a new unit so low. The one quote we've heard so far was ridiculously high just for the drivers, and Stax would have to get them cheap enough that Audiocubes and Pricejapan could list them for ca. $200-220 to slot between the $150 for the 003 and $280 for the 202. 

 With an amp it wouldn't really be much cheaper than a 2050, maybe $380-400 total at lowest. Come to think of it though, what dynamic headphone plus amp could compete at that price?


----------



## Downrange

A little more on the Stax SRM-007TII. I feel I've been a little too harsh in my comments, so let me moderate myself a bit. This past few days, I've entirely been listening to the KGSS, trying a lot of material, both familiar and not. I even added some older recordings to my iTunes library. Some of them are unlistenable through the KGSS. This amp reveals lesser recordings in a way that may disappoint you if you're used to listening to a less transparent component than the Omega II. So, just for giggles, I hooked up the Stax amp and have been going through the same material I've been auditioning the past few days, and, the difference is incredible. I can actually listen to and enjoy the "substandard" recordings through the Stax amp that I had to switch to the floor speakers for before. The best recordings still have a bit more detail through the KGSS, and the dynamics are definitely more present, but there is a lot to be said for the tube sound of the Stax. The more I listen the more I wonder if perhaps I'm giving the Stax amp short shrift. I really wish I could hear a Blue Hawaii, as I suspect it would have the best of both worlds - power and delicacy, the euphonic richness of the tube amp and power and reach of the KGSS. 
 I had thought I might order one of Justin's BH SE's once I sell the Stax amp, but am now wondering if maybe I shouldn't just sell the KGSS, and order the BH SE, keeping the Stax at least until I get it.
 Anyone interested in a like new KGSS at my cost? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If there's interest, I may just do that instead.

 Yes, I'm pretty fickle. But the amps each have strengths, and it's not an easy call. Spritzer, you've heard all these amps, haven't you? Am I imagining things or am I on the right track here?


----------



## visualguy

What about the WooAudio GES? How does it compare to the SRM-007tII, the KGSS, and the KGBH?

 Isn't the WooAudio GES also a Gilmore design? How close is it to the BH?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard anything about an updated KGSS design from Justin at HeadAmp?_

 

I've got a few details from Justin but I don't know if the design is finalized yet so I will not relay that information. To summarize it will be much better built and with shorter signal paths. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I'm pretty fickle. But the amps each have strengths, and it's not an easy call. Spritzer, you've heard all these amps, haven't you? Am I imagining things or am I on the right track here?_

 

You are not crazy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is exactly what I meant by my comments that the KGSS is a bit sterile as it lacks the natural bloom of a good tube amp to make all music shine. The KGSS is a great amp but needs tubes to move it up a notch. The BH is just that but with even more power and, when rolled with some nice tubes, all the bloom you could want. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the WooAudio GES? How does it compare to the SRM-007tII, the KGSS, and the KGBH?

 Isn't the WooAudio GES also a Gilmore design? How close is it to the BH?_

 

The GES is a much older design and very, very different. It will never match the power, detail or neutrality of the BH but that doesn't mean it isn't a good amp, just a different flavor.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stay far away from that stuff. The build and parts quality is horrible_

 

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tip! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No problem. There has been a lot of trouble with that particular builder.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem. There has been a lot of trouble with that particular builder._

 

I wasn't aware of problems with the builder - McAllister - himself but I agree with spritzer (as an EA-4 owner) that the build quality leaves a lot to be desired (It's no Woo, that's for sure).

 However, the SQ is not that far behind the stock Woo and I sometimes wonder when I finally get around to tube rolling whether the McAllister will be able to maintain a reasonable closeness to the best I can get out of the Woo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (The McAllister certainly has a lot more power within it - 9pm on the volume is loud in the HE60s compared to 12 o'clock on the Woo GES)

 What I can say is that both are a stage below the level randerson3024 normally uses - they're at my budget level (I'd love a KGBH or ES-1 but could never justify the expense in my personal budget/family commitments balance).

 We each work with what we can.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wasn't aware of problems with the builder - McAllister - himself but I agree with spritzer (as an EA-4 owner) that the build quality leaves a lot to be desired (It's no Woo, that's for sure).

 However, the SQ is not that far behind the stock Woo and I sometimes wonder when I finally get around to tube rolling whether the McAllister will be able to maintain a reasonable closeness to the best I can get out of the Woo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (The McAllister certainly has a lot more power within it - 9pm on the volume is loud in the HE60s compared to 12 o'clock on the Woo GES)

 What I can say is that both are a stage below the level randerson3024 normally uses - they're at my budget level (I'd love a KGBH or ES-1 but could never justify the expense in my personal budget/family commitments balance).

 We each work with what we can. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That we must do. Please be aware that loudness has nothing to do with power as that is simply gain i.e. more voltage but often at the expense of current.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please be aware that loudness has nothing to do with power as that is simply gain i.e. more voltage but often at the expense of current._

 

Point taken, spritzer. Thanks.


----------



## Downrange

The KGSS is for sale.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...ss-new-282795/


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS is for sale.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...ss-new-282795/_

 

You are quick...


----------



## Capunk

Can anyone here quickly describe how's Stax 2050A system sonic characteristic? is it worth to get over K701?


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS is for sale.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...ss-new-282795/_

 

How I wish I could afford one
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you mind saying how long Justin took to build it? I'm guessing he doesn't keep any pre built ones in stock.


----------



## Downrange

Milkpowder: Justin built mine a couple months, and yes, he does build to order. I love the KGSS, but am going to get something even better!

 Kapunk: The 2050 replaced the 2020, which I have, and should sound the same. I'd charcterize the sound as a bit forward, slight bass boost around 40-55 hz, very revealing, but not nearly as accurate as Omega IIs (of course). A very nice system, though, I still use mine a lot.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The GES is a much older design and very, very different. It will never match the power, detail or neutrality of the BH but that doesn't mean it isn't a good amp, just a different flavor._

 

How about the GES vs. the SRM-007tII?


----------



## naamanf

I am really starting to like my Omega 02s with the BH. I replaced the Groove Tube XF2 reproductions with Winged C tubes and it really seemed to improve the sound. 

 For those that have heard the Winged C compared to the real Mullard XF2s, how do you compare the sound?


----------



## luvdunhill

so, I was pouring over tube datasheets last night and had a (potentially) startling discovery. Does the Stax connector fit in the British 5 pin tube sockets? Definitely the same angles and what not, but the Stax connector may be uniformly too small.

 Spritzer, didn't you say that you had a few 807's on hand? Is there enough wiggle room in the base to accommodate the Stax male connector?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about the GES vs. the SRM-007tII?_

 

That is a closer match but the GES should beat it hands down. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really starting to like my Omega 02s with the BH. I replaced the Groove Tube XF2 reproductions with Winged C tubes and it really seemed to improve the sound. 

 For those that have heard the Winged C compared to the real Mullard XF2s, how do you compare the sound?_

 

It's been a while but the Mullards are much more natural and a have musical flow that the "C's" lack. It's no contest really. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, I was pouring over tube datasheets last night and had a (potentially) startling discovery. Does the Stax connector fit in the British 5 pin tube sockets? Definitely the same angles and what not, but the Stax connector may be uniformly too small.

 Spritzer, didn't you say that you had a few 807's on hand? Is there enough wiggle room in the base to accommodate the Stax male connector?




_

 

The 807 footpint is much larger with bigger pins but the pattern is the same.


----------



## Downrange

Spritzer, the KGSS sold in less than six hours!

 Now, I get to wait for the new amp to be built!


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 807 footpint is much larger with bigger pins but the pattern is the same._

 

right, but often the sockets have some wiggle room, as they look like this -o-, for example the older Soviet ceramic sockets... oh well, back to square 1.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, the KGSS sold in less than six hours!

 Now, I get to wait for the new amp to be built!_

 

Great to hear! Btw. PM sent

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_right, but often the sockets have some wiggle room, as they look like this -o-, for example the older Soviet ceramic sockets... oh well, back to square 1._

 

Here ya go, SR-Omega plug vs. 807


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, the KGSS sold in less than six hours!

 Now, I get to wait for the new amp to be built!_

 

Curious as to what amp will be replacing your KGSS...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Curious as to what amp will be replacing your KGSS...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He's shooting for the BH...


----------



## Vaughn

Hello all,

 I've been saving a bit and I now have about enough for a 3050A system. With a little effort I could go up to the 4040. I currently use a DV336i and Senn HD650 and love the sound of vacuum tubes. Is the tube amp used in the 4040 system well regarded or am I better of just buying a set of SR-404 and finding a used amp?
 Also, is it even a worthwhile step up from the 3050?

 Thanks for your advice!


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How I wish I could afford one
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



_

 

I guess this particular KGSS is built for the wrong voltage anyway.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess this particular KGSS is built for the wrong voltage anyway._

 

The transformer has a dual primary so switch to a serial connection instead of a parallel and it is ready for 230v.


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He's shooting for the BH... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Is BH still being made by someone? I was under the impression that all the new BH are custom DIY projects now.

 Or is this the KGBH from Headamp?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The transformer has a dual primary so switch to a serial connection instead of a parallel and it is ready for 230v._

 

What do you mean by "switch"?
 Man, I do have 7 left thumbs and three sprained ring fingers, and chances are quite high I'd electrocute myself or burn the house down if I have to open up a case and desolder and resolder something.In my hands a soldering iron turns into a weapon of mass destruction or at least of self destruction.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is BH still being made by someone? I was under the impression that all the new BH are custom DIY projects now.

 Or is this the KGBH from Headamp?_

 

It's a KGBH SE from Headamp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean by "switch"?
 Man, I do have 7 left thumbs and three sprained ring fingers, and chances are quite high I'd electrocute myself or burn the house down if I have to open up a case and desolder and resolder something.In my hands a soldering iron turns into a weapon of mass destruction or at least of self destruction._

 

There are 4 wires leading into the primary of the transformer for the two separate windings. In order to get the right voltage on the secondaries they need to be parallel connected for 117v operation creating two windings but serial connected for 230v operation and thus acting as one single winding. I'm certain that Justin would be more then willing to assist with this and even you can do this just as you aren't sure which end of the soldering iron you should hold onto. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. The only way to get good at soldering is to burn your self plenty of times and destroy something.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. The only way to get good at soldering is to burn your self plenty of times and destroy something._

 


 I remember once when i was something like 15, I was using a cheap 15w soldering pencil, in a carpeted room, and barefoot. And i knocked the soldering iron off the desk, and it fell under by my feet. 

 And in my haste to remedy the situation, I stood up, with my left foot on the iron. 

 I'm just glad it was only a 15W iron.


----------



## Duggeh

ericj you tried to send me a couple of pms, but my box is overfull. I couldn't get an option to email you through head-fi.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I remember once when i was something like 15, I was using a cheap 15w soldering pencil, in a carpeted room, and barefoot. And i knocked the soldering iron off the desk, and it fell under by my feet. 

 And in my haste to remedy the situation, I stood up, with my left foot on the iron. 

 I'm just glad it was only a 15W iron._

 

I have fond memories of burn marks and mangled piece of flesh at the age of 12 while doing some repairs. It's scary how much things don't change...


----------



## Downrange

I built my first shortwave receiver when I was 14. Plenty of bandaids were needed!


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a KGBH SE from Headamp. 



 ..._

 

So Justin is still taking pre-orders for the KGBH SE?


----------



## Downrange

It's waiting list only at this point 2D.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Too late to get on the list?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's waiting list only at this point 2D._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* 
_Too late to get on the list?_

 

???
 I have a last place on the waiting list for sale.Send me a PM if interested.
 It's not cheap though .........


----------



## CarbonTi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_???
 I have a last place on the waiting list for sale.Send me a PM if interested.
 It's not cheap though ........._

 

Just a heads-up on this, as long as Justin's policy allows for someone on the pre-order list to sell that spot on the list to another buyer. then this might be one way to go. The only other way is to hope everyone on the pre-order list backs out so the wait list buyers move in. That could be tough.

 FWIW, some esteemed custom bike builders do not allow spots on their sometimes multi-year waiting lists to be bought and sold, ie the spot is non-transferable. So anybody thinking of buying a spot better be sure Justin confirms that it's OK.


----------



## Downrange

I would think that as a good businessman, Justin will make good to the original people who filled the list, then extend offers to buy KGBHs to the waiting list for those slots that "opted out." I'd be surprised if he put up with any shenanigans such as, "hey, so-and-so bought my slot, so here's his name," LOL! 
 Can't speak for Justin, of course, but that's my read - if you want to "sell your slot," buy the amp and ship the amp to the slot buyer. 
 With the economy turning down this year, I think the people on the wait list's odds are pretty good of getting a KGBH!


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_???
 I have a last place on the waiting list for sale.Send me a PM if interested.
 It's not cheap though ........._

 

That's quite alright - I was able to get on another list


----------



## Semifitoldman

Anyone got an used ribbon extension cable/cord for a pair of SR-44s for sale?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Semifitoldman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone got an used ribbon extension cable/cord for a pair of SR-44s for sale?_

 

Somebody may have some extra but if you have no luck finding one you should be able to get spare cables from AudioCubes2 or any local Stax distributors.


----------



## pdennis

To those of you who remember my enthusiastic report of the SR-X/SRD-7 a whole two weeks ago, this may seem a little silly, but nonetheless here's the sitch:

 For a complex reason that wouldn't interest anyone, I'm losing the DAC between my Macbook and my power amp. The trouble is that I was using it as a volume control for my system; my power amp has stepped attenuation, but even the lowest step is too loud if it gets a full -10 db signal at the inputs. Not many inexpensive DACs have output volume control, though, so I'm not sure I can continue using my big amp with the Stax.

 Two questions, then:

 One, does the SR-X III play well with, say, the SRM-1 series? Some people apparently feel they sound better through an adaptor.

 Two, there seems to be quite a profusion of vintage Stax stuff on Ebay.de. Are there any German Stax-fi folks who might be willing to help me snag, say, an SR-Lambda, which I know is a good match with an SRM-1? Is it even worth it with the lousy exchange rate + shipping?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To those of you who remember my enthusiastic report of the SR-X/SRD-7 a whole two weeks ago, this may seem a little silly, but nonetheless here's the sitch:

 For a complex reason that wouldn't interest anyone, I'm losing the DAC between my Macbook and my power amp. The trouble is that I was using it as a volume control for my system; my power amp has stepped attenuation, but even the lowest step is too loud if it gets a full -10 db signal at the inputs. Not many inexpensive DACs have output volume control, though, so I'm not sure I can continue using my big amp with the Stax.

 Two questions, then:

 One, does the SR-X III play well with, say, the SRM-1 series? Some people apparently feel they sound better through an adaptor.

 Two, there seems to be quite a profusion of vintage Stax stuff on Ebay.de. Are there any German Stax-fi folks who might be willing to help me snag, say, an SR-Lambda, which I know is a good match with an SRM-1? Is it even worth it with the lousy exchange rate + shipping?_

 

I'm one of those who find the SR-X sounds better from an adapter than from an SRM-1. Maybe harsh and analytical phones like the SR-X mate better with syrupy, punchy amp/adapters than with the perhaps cleaner-sounding Stax amps. 

 Though when I was in Berlin I used to engage in facilitating quite a few cross-border deals, that was when the exchange rate was about 15% better. Also, shipping light headphones is another matter from shipping heavy amps, and it's always tricky shipping vintage gear of dubious functionality over such distances. I'd recommend against it as a bargain option. 

 Is there no way to attenuate volume via software? One cheapish option would be to grab a vintage amp or receiver/amp (like a 70's Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, Sansui, Sherwood, etc.) primarily for the Stax. Many of us find they mate well with normal-bias headphones. Just a thought.


----------



## pdennis

I think that attenuating the volume by software is not such a great idea, because basically you're decreasing the dynamic range. That is, if I understand correctly, which is in no way guaranteed.

 Thanks for your other input though, it gives me something to chew on.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that attenuating the volume by software is not such a great idea, because basically you're decreasing the dynamic range. That is, if I understand correctly, which is in no way guaranteed._

 

In principle yes, but in practice the effect is not so drastic as it sounds, you'd have to let your ear judge. Analog attenuation has its own problems, of course, and cheap solutions can be problematic. Another solution I didn't mention is to simply add an external analog attenuator between your soundcard and the amp, though if it was me I'd just go full blast on the output and grab a vintage amp for the adapter, as I'd mentioned. The advantage of vintage gear is always that if you don't like it, you can resell for about the same price.


----------



## spritzer

I second the vintage amp option. They might be old but many of them are much better then the crap produced today.


----------



## pdennis

I'm looking into it. The biggest problems I see with this route is that 1) it's a whole 'nuther vintage world that I don't know -- I really have no idea what the values are, and 2) lots of people seem to think that anything with VU meters on it is prized vintage gear and extremely valuable, even if it hasn't been serviced since it was bought.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking into it. The biggest problems I see with this route is that 1) it's a whole 'nuther vintage world that I don't know -- I really have no idea what the values are, and 2) lots of people seem to think that anything with VU meters on it is prized vintage gear and extremely valuable, even if it hasn't been serviced since it was bought._

 

Think of it as the missing part to the vintage world you already entered when you got the SR-X. Also, look here.


----------



## wualta

That's right. If you want to test the vintage waters without too much risk, try one of the early MOSFET receivers or amps. Here's a partial list:

 Realistic STA-2200 receiver (60w/ch), has pre-out / amp-in connectors

 Kyocera R-851 receiver (85w/ch), no amp-in connection but has excellent preamp built in

 Hitachi HMA-7500 amp (75w/ch) (there's also a later 7500 Mk II which is a bit pricier)

 Sanyo Plus P55 amp (100w/ch)

 Drive over to AudioKarma.org for some user impressions. 

 Want to go all out? Grab a Yamaha B-2 VFET amp.

 .


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking into it. The biggest problems I see with this route is that 1) it's a whole 'nuther vintage world that I don't know -- I really have no idea what the values are, and 2) lots of people seem to think that anything with VU meters on it is prized vintage gear and extremely valuable, even if it hasn't been serviced since it was bought._

 

Have you thought about this volume control?
Griffin Technology: PowerMate


----------



## pdennis

Thanks for the suggestion Ironbut. It looks cool, but I think it's just a way to control the digital output volume.

 I've found an early 70's Harmon Kardon 930 for about $60 in good condition. It's local, so no shipping. Tempting.


----------



## ironbut

Yeah, after I posted that, I realized that it wasn't what you're looking for. If you really like the way that your amp sounds with the SRX, you could always look into having the pot replace with a higher value one that isn't stepped. That should be an easy job for any decent repair shop.


----------



## pdennis

It's not that I feel my amp and Stax kit are inseparable... In fact, I don't even know what my SR-X sounds like with any other amp. It's just what I have.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the suggestion Ironbut. It looks cool, but I think it's just a way to control the digital output volume.

 I've found an early 70's Harmon Kardon 930 for about $60 in good condition. It's local, so no shipping. Tempting._

 


 $60 is a good price. Why not, I say. From the one review I just found, it sounds like it might make a decent match for the SR-X-- smooth sounding, clean, strong bass. Heck, maybe I should buy it off you once you get it. Here's what it looks like, practically crying for an SRD-7 to sit next to it:


----------



## Bastet

If you do want to keep your amp, this device might come in handy: 
SM Pro Nano Patch
 It's a small passive volume control for analog signals. 
 It isn't that expensive but not cheap either, since it will cost you about the same as that Harman Kardon amp you have dug out.


----------



## pdennis

Good find; that's still cheaper than the one other similar product I know of, the A Designs ATTY. Still, probably just going to go the amp route at this point.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Still, probably just going to go the amp route at this point._

 

Here's how it works: you'll get the amp because it's so much more interesting than an attenuator, and because it's cheap and is a sentimental match for the Stax stuff. Then you'll find that in some ways it's much better than your other, much more expensive amp because somehow it just works on the scale of the old Stax-- but at the same time, there will be something you miss in the sound that your other amp gave you in spades, and you can't stop hearing that it's not there. At that point, come back to this thread and tell us about it, and we'll tell you to get a Blue Hawaii.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's how it works: you'll get the amp because it's so much more interesting than an attenuator, and because it's cheap and is a sentimental match for the Stax stuff. Then you'll find that in some ways it's much better than your other, much more expensive amp because somehow it just works on the scale of the old Stax-- but at the same time, there will be something you miss in the sound that your other amp gave you in spades, and you can't stop hearing that it's not there. At that point, come back to this thread and tell us about it, and we'll tell you to get a Blue Hawaii._

 

Nahhh he's going to need a new upgraded BH with much larger CCS and a huge dual mono tube rectified and choke loaded PSU.


----------



## Audio-Omega

Is SR-007MK2 comfortable to wear ? What's the fit like compare to Sennheiser HD650 ?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is SR-007MK2 comfortable to wear ? What's the fit like compare to Sennheiser HD650 ?_

 

The Mk1 is to me much, much more comfortable. The HD600 is only good after years of use and they still don't disappear like the SR-007. The thick headband and huge earpads make for a very comfy headphone but this is true of nearly every Stax headphone ever made.


----------



## Audio-Omega

Has SR-007MK2 got that cramp effect when brand new ?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has SR-007MK2 got that cramp effect when brand new ?_

 

You you mean the clamp effect of the Sennheiser HD's? Then no but the metal arc could use some adjusting to get the right sound as the earpieces do not swivel on an axis like 99% of other headphones. It's easy to though.


----------



## Audio-Omega

As long as SR-007MK2 is suitable for smaller heads.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as SR-007MK2 is suitable for smaller heads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can bend them as you wish and also use it to control the angle of the drivers. It's a customization that actually works as you can have mad bass or nice subtle bass with a full midrange.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nahhh he's going to need a new upgraded BH with much larger CCS and a huge dual mono tube rectified and choke loaded PSU. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I like it when you talk dirty!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like it when you talk dirty! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's what I do best... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Fill that amp with tantalum and Riken resistors, NOS Pio caps in the PSU, Tamura transformers and chokes and top it all off with a 4-gang Alps.RK50....


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I do best... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Fill that amp with tantalum and Riken resistors, NOS Pio caps in the PSU, Tamura transformers and chokes and top it all off with a 4-gang Alps.RK50.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thats kinda what I did with my speaker amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Tantalum and Riken resistors, Russian MIL PIO and Elna caps, MIL spec power transformers, but the best part was a MIL spec step volume control. It was laser cut on the diamond composite board. These things cost about 90 rubles each for bulk shipments of 5000 when the factories were buying them from one another in 1970's. My friend got them 10 for $1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now If I can only mobilize him make a BH like amp for me


----------



## pipoplus

I own a SR Lambda Pro classic and a Lambda Nova Basic

 I prefer the Lambda Pro classic because of the much broader soundstage and larger dynamics. The Lambda Nova Basic is more "in your face" also the sound is less stereo than the pro -classsic, the Basic has a larger mid area and is slightly more detailed.

 I am thinking about replacing the Nova Basic (diaphragm thickness 2 micron) with another Lambda (f.e. a signature or 404 or a nova classic /sig.) Which Lambda will be something like my pro classic and is more detailed


----------



## pdennis

Hah! I am utterly beyond temptation.

 (Uh oh, does that mean I lose my Head-Fi account?)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats kinda what I did with my speaker amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Tantalum and Riken resistors, Russian MIL PIO and Elna caps, MIL spec power transformers, but the best part was a MIL spec step volume control. It was laser cut on the diamond composite board. These things cost about 90 rubles each for bulk shipments of 5000 when the factories were buying them from one another in 1970's. My friend got them 10 for $1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now If I can only mobilize him make a BH like amp for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Those milspec parts can be rather good but mostly they are great value. It's the proof that good design sounds great as these things were meant to handle EMP blasts and survive. Their only real faults are the use of magnetic parts and that they tend to ring quite a bit but that is nothing that can't be overcome. There is also the fact that I love huge PIO caps...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those milspec parts can be rather good but mostly they are great value. It's the proof that good design sounds great as these things were meant to handle EMP blasts and survive. Their only real faults are the use of magnetic parts and that they tend to ring quite a bit but that is nothing that can't be overcome. There is also the fact that I love huge PIO caps... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Some of them do use metal parts, very true. But if they were used in for military communications equipment they often used aluminum and that is a great find. I also stumbled once on awesome cases that were made for some kind of com boxes, guess what they made of? Finger thick titanium sheets. Now that was just such a nice case for a phonostage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I own a SR Lambda Pro classic and a Lambda Nova Basic

 I prefer the Lambda Pro classic because of the much broader soundstage and larger dynamics. The Lambda Nova Basic is more "in your face" also the sound is less stereo than the pro -classsic, the Basic has a larger mid area and is slightly more detailed.

 I am thinking about replacing the Nova Basic (diaphragm thickness 2 micron) with another Lambda (f.e. a signature or 404 or a nova classic /sig.) Which Lambda will be something like my pro classic and is more detailed_

 

The Nova Basic and the Pro Classic are really the same headphone except for some slight changes in the stator design and of course the new arc assembly. The Basic was the replacement for the Pro classic (or Spirit as it was known in Japan) but what you are hearing is the difference between the two Lambda ages, pre 1994 and after 1994. Since you prefer the older phone I'd look for a Signature, Pro or a normal bias Lambda.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Nova Basic and the Pro Classic are really the same headphone except for some slight changes in the stator design and of course the new arc assembly. The Basic was the replacement for the Pro classic (or Spirit as it was known in Japan) but what you are hearing is the difference between the two Lambda ages, pre 1994 and after 1994. Since you prefer the older phone I'd look for a Signature, Pro or a normal bias Lambda._

 

Interesting. Are both of them 2 micron? How similar are Basic and Pro Classic to SR-Lambda?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of them do use metal parts, very true. But if they were used in for military communications equipment they often used aluminum and that is a great find. I also stumbled once on awesome cases that were made for some kind of com boxes, guess what they made of? Finger thick titanium sheets. Now that was just such a nice case for a phonostage. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's mostly the steel pins on some of the stuff that are problematic. They easy to change though. 

 That's some very nice cases... I should really go and check if there is something usable from the US Navy as they left a lot of stuff here when the base was closed...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Are both of them 2 micron? How similar are Basic and Pro Classic to SR-Lambda?_

 

The Pro Classic is 1.5um (I think?) and I'm not sure what they used in the Basic. Neither one of them can match the ambiance of the SR-Lambda or the amazing bass when they are undamped. Both the Pro Classic and the Basic were the cheapest Lambdas so the skimped on the stators so that gives them a more mellow sound signature and they lack all moments of greatness. Still damn good headphones and the difference isn't that great unless you are really searching for it...like I'm always doing.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Since you prefer the older phone I'd look for a Signature, Pro or a normal bias Lambda. 
 

I feared you would say something like that (sh#% I wanted something different than black) I can probably buy a normal bias SR-lambda in the near future I hope that deal will succeed.

  Quote:


 Both the Pro Classic and the Basic were the cheapest Lambdas so the skimped on the stators so that gives them a more mellow sound signature and they lack all moments of greatness. 
 

I would not call the Basic mellow. Still you mentioning "the moments of greatness" keeps tempting me in getting a 404... (but taking your advice I should probably look for a ,harder to find, old signature)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feared you would say something like that (sh#% I wanted something different than black) I can probably buy a normal bias SR-lambda in the near future I hope that deal will succeed._

 

The Lambda Signature is dark brown with a light brown headband. Pictures can't quite do them justice. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would not call the Basic mellow. Still you mentioning "the moments of greatness" keeps tempting me in getting a 404... (but taking your advice I should probably look for a ,harder to find, old signature)_

 

The 404 is good but I could never live with one. The SR-SC1 is another matter. The whole Nova range is more mellow but since the Basic is slightly rough around the edges they hide it better then the Nova Signatures. They are so mellow that they put me to sleep, almost.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been enquiring if people wanted to join me in a request to Stax to make a run of replacement SRX3 drivers, pro or regular, because the stock of spares has long since been depleted._

 

I am in for a pair of two. Especially if we talk Pro drivers, but would be interested in Normal bias ones as well..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS is for sale.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...ss-new-282795/_

 

That one did not last long! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Hope its new owner will be more pleased with it than you...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is SR-007MK2 comfortable to wear ? What's the fit like compare to Sennheiser HD650 ?_

 

Can't speak for the SR-007MK2 (never tried one), but I find the SR-007 to be über comfortable. Far more comfortable that the HD650, and all the other phones I have tried out there.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$60 is a good price. Why not, I say. From the one review I just found, it sounds like it might make a decent match for the SR-X-- smooth sounding, clean, strong bass. Heck, maybe I should buy it off you once you get it. Here's what it looks like, practically crying for an SRD-7 to sit next to it:








_

 

I had a similar Harman Kardon that sounded good with the Stax, and with dynamic cans as well. The problem with vintage amps is that they don't run silent like the Stax amps so, so you will have some degree of noise floor to put up with.


----------



## Downrange

Kai, I loved the KGSS, but it was question of trading the tube euphonia of the Stax amp for the demonstrably superior dynamics of the KGSS. In the end, I decided to order a KGBH-SE to have the best of both worlds.


----------



## pdennis

Some serious mojo happening here with the SRD/SR-X and the HK 930; potentially much better than what I was using before. Bass much, much improved, and its not EQ'd up like it was before. But (and it's a big but), there's a loud buzz that I think may be a ground loop (everything's plugged into the same strip).


----------



## Audio-Omega

SR-007MK2 is more expensive than the previous version isn't it ? I hope this is the one that will keep me happy for the next few years.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is SR-007MK2 comfortable to wear ? What's the fit like compare to Sennheiser HD650 ?_

 

Hi

 We use HD650´s at work and I can tell you that it is a relief when I can change to the Omegas at home. Once you have found the correct ear cup position the Omegas are very comfortable. 

 Aside from the physical aspect the sound reproduction is very different and much better. (lots of early reflections information, better dynamics and no boom bass).

 cheers


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some serious mojo happening here with the SRD/SR-X and the HK 930; potentially much better than what I was using before. Bass much, much improved, and its not EQ'd up like it was before. But (and it's a big but), there's a loud buzz that I think may be a ground loop (everything's plugged into the same strip)._

 

It could be a ground loop so try a cheater plug (just the two power pins) and try turning it both ways. There could also be a blown capacitor in the amp as it can present like that. Does it change with volume, input etc.?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007MK2 is more expensive than the previous version isn't it ? I hope this is the one that will keep me happy for the next few years._

 

It is more expensive and the first price increase of a Stax Omega headphone, ever. The SR-Omega and SR-007 have both had a MSRP of 180.000Yen. The new one is about 200000Yen


----------



## pdennis

I think I've eliminated the ground loop possibility by feeding the receiver from my laptop running off its battery. The hum is still there.

 It doesn't vary with volume or inputs, and the hum is also present on the speakers (I don't think I mentioned -- I got the receiver and two EPI 100v speakers for a hundred bucks!) It seems much quieter from the speakers, but it's definitely the same hum (same frequencies).

 Also, the hum seems to be quite variable on its own, or will seem to increase as the amp warms up. Doesn't seem like good news!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I've eliminated the ground loop possibility by feeding the receiver from my laptop running off its battery. The hum is still there.

 It doesn't vary with volume or inputs, and the hum is also present on the speakers (I don't think I mentioned -- I got the receiver and two EPI 100v speakers for a hundred bucks!) It seems much quieter from the speakers, but it's definitely the same hum (same frequencies).

 Also, the hum seems to be quite variable on its own, or will seem to increase as the amp warms up. Doesn't seem like good news!_

 

It is probably a blown or leaking capacitor. This is expected as all caps have a finite lifespan and it should be pretty easy to fix. Try opening up the amp and look for any leaking capacitor. Be aware that many manufacturers used (and most still do) glue under the larger caps so they look like they are leaking while they aren't.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some serious mojo happening here with the SRD/SR-X and the HK 930; potentially much better than what I was using before. Bass much, much improved, and its not EQ'd up like it was before. But (and it's a big but), there's a loud buzz that I think may be a ground loop (everything's plugged into the same strip)._

 

Very promising results so far, glad I pushed you in that direction. Just got to figure out that buzz. The capacitor theory seems likely-- keep us updated. 

 Best, FV


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the end, I decided to order a KGBH-SE to have the best of both worlds._

 

Good choice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 From all the KGBH love around here I am sure the KGBH SE will be an awesome sounding amplifier.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007MK2 is more expensive than the previous version isn't it ? I hope this is the one that will keep me happy for the next few years._

 

Correct!
 At least for the time being.

 I also hope it will keep you happy for a long time.


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai, I loved the KGSS, but it was question of trading the tube euphonia of the Stax amp for the demonstrably superior dynamics of the KGSS. In the end, I decided to order a KGBH-SE to have the best of both worlds._

 

I was considering the KGBH too before I got my KGSS, but decided against it. My source (Marantz SA-7S1) already has some warmth. Also, I'm leery of tube amps. For example, don't they take a while to warm up before they sound good?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was considering the KGBH too before I got my KGSS, but decided against it. My source (Marantz SA-7S1) already has some warmth. Also, I'm leery of tube amps. For example, don't they take a while to warm up before they sound good?_

 

Tube amps take a lot less time to warm up the SS gear. The BH is great after about 2 hours while the KGSS take a lot more time to start to shine. All SS gear should be left on 24/7 and I even do it to some of my tube gear as well. The SRM-T1 sounds really good after about 2-3 days when it is all nice an toasty. 

 Just to clarify that the BH is pretty far from being a warm amp but put in some GE "Fatboys" and it has that sloppy bass but that is the tubes fault. The ES-1 should be much warmer due to the difference in circuitry but the BH is pretty much a beefed up KGSS with none of the SS drawbacks.


----------



## Downrange

PDennis - it's probably a ground loop, unless you're running all the components from the battery. Try Spritzer's idea of just reversing plugs until it attenuates. Better yet, strap all the components to an actual ground.

 Kai, you've got a PM.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai, you've got a PM._

 

PM replied!


----------



## visualguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tube amps take a lot less time to warm up the SS gear. The BH is great after about 2 hours while the KGSS take a lot more time to start to shine. All SS gear should be left on 24/7 and I even do it to some of my tube gear as well. The SRM-T1 sounds really good after about 2-3 days when it is all nice an toasty. 

 Just to clarify that the BH is pretty far from being a warm amp but put in some GE "Fatboys" and it has that sloppy bass but that is the tubes fault. The ES-1 should be much warmer due to the difference in circuitry but the BH is pretty much a beefed up KGSS with none of the SS drawbacks._

 

Hmmm... I find that my KGSS sounds fine shortly after I turn it on. I don't know what the KGBH would sound like shortly after you turn it on. I certainly can't always turn it on at least 2 hours before I start listening...

 What exactly are the advantages of the KGBH when compared to the KGSS?


----------



## pdennis

On the HK 930:

 Hum persists with PX100's plugged into the receiver, without any source connected. Tried turning plug. Hum gets louder and quieter sometimes.

 Here's the inside of the thing:
Attachment 1203

 As you can see, the caps look fine. The only thing that looked remotely funny were these things (I don't know what they are, sorry I'm new at this):
Attachment 1205

 They stuck out at me because only some of them have the brown stuff on them, but I guess it's probably still just glue?

 On the bright side, I'm now hooked up with a Pioneer SX-939 to tide me over. Got a good deal on it, was very scratchy but seems to be perfect now with some contact cleaner/lube. I still want to try and fix the Harmon Kardon so I can decide which one to keep, then sell the other. In the meantime, here's a picture of the Pioneer with its pretty lights and my Stax:
Attachment 1207


----------



## pdennis

Page 500! What do I win?


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the HK 930:

 Hum persists with PX100's plugged into the receiver, without any source connected. Tried turning plug. Hum gets louder and quieter sometimes.

 Here's the inside of the thing:
Attachment 1203

 As you can see, the caps look fine. The only thing that looked remotely funny were these things (I don't know what they are, sorry I'm new at this):
Attachment 1205

 They stuck out at me because only some of them have the brown stuff on them, but I guess it's probably still just glue?

 On the bright side, I'm now hooked up with a Pioneer SX-939 to tide me over. Got a good deal on it, was very scratchy but seems to be perfect now with some contact cleaner/lube. I still want to try and fix the Harmon Kardon so I can decide which one to keep, then sell the other. In the meantime, here's a picture of the Pioneer with its pretty lights and my Stax:
Attachment 1207_

 

Peter,

 I'd take this issue over to Audiokarma. Those guys are into this stuff.

Vintage Solid State - AudioKarma.org Discussion Forums

 Good Luck!


----------



## pdennis

I've tried, but unfortunately they won't let you register with a web-based mail address. Thanks for the suggestion though, and sorry if I was getting too far off topic.

 Thanks again for all your help, folks.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arielexc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm... I find that my KGSS sounds fine shortly after I turn it on. I don't know what the KGBH would sound like shortly after you turn it on. I certainly can't always turn it on at least 2 hours before I start listening...

 What exactly are the advantages of the KGBH when compared to the KGSS?_

 

The KGSS seems to need at least 30 minutes, until then the bass doesn't fill out properly and the midrange sounds thin. However, I'd leave it on a good 24 hours before doing things like gear comparisons, especially when a lot of cash is at stake in the decision.


----------



## spritzer

While we are on 500th page we still haven't reached 5000 posts, not that anybody cares really, but no prise for you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just scrolled over the trhead logo and I have a scary amount of posts in this thread... just under 1/5... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the HK 930:

 Hum persists with PX100's plugged into the receiver, without any source connected. Tried turning plug. Hum gets louder and quieter sometimes.

 Here's the inside of the thing:
Attachment 1203

 As you can see, the caps look fine. The only thing that looked remotely funny were these things (I don't know what they are, sorry I'm new at this):
Attachment 1205

 They stuck out at me because only some of them have the brown stuff on them, but I guess it's probably still just glue?

 On the bright side, I'm now hooked up with a Pioneer SX-939 to tide me over. Got a good deal on it, was very scratchy but seems to be perfect now with some contact cleaner/lube. I still want to try and fix the Harmon Kardon so I can decide which one to keep, then sell the other. In the meantime, here's a picture of the Pioneer with its pretty lights and my Stax:
Attachment 1207_

 

Those brown things are transistors with small heatsinks fitted so they should be ok. only the electrolytic caps would show any signs of leaking while the orange drop film caps would look ok even if they are ruined on the inside. The amp would probably need to be recapped and that isn't that much fun to do.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Page 500! What do I win?_

 

Still on page 250 here...
 With less than 5000 posts, of which 400 are mine.


----------



## Bastet

This might be a daft question but does anyone know if the SRD7/MK2 transformer accepts banana plugs at the speaker binding posts?
 It looks like it does with those big holes but mine definitely do not fit. They are the kind with those little metal fins that are supposed to contract and expand again to hold the plug in place. 

 And no, I don't want to hear any comments how bad the switching circuitry is for the overall sound. I already know that but I need it anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Besides, I couldn't do anything about it even if I didn't need it, so I might as well take advantage of what is there.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bastet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This might be a daft question but does anyone know if the SRD7/MK2 transformer accepts banana plugs at the speaker binding posts?
 It looks like it does with those big holes but mine definitely do not fit. They are the kind with those little metal fins that are supposed to contract and expand again to hold the plug in place._

 

No, it don't accept banana plugs.
 Just took a look at mine and there are not enough space or any connector parts inside the holes for a banana plug. Looks like it will only accept dismantled cables.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bastet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This might be a daft question but does anyone know if the SRD7/MK2 transformer accepts banana plugs at the speaker binding posts?
 It looks like it does with those big holes but mine definitely do not fit. They are the kind with those little metal fins that are supposed to contract and expand again to hold the plug in place. 

 And no, I don't want to hear any comments how bad the switching circuitry is for the overall sound. I already know that but I need it anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Besides, I couldn't do anything about it even if I didn't need it, so I might as well take advantage of what is there._

 

Banana plugs do work but they are a crime against humanity... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The contact is only at the tip as with most 5-way binging posts but if you have to use bananas then they will work.


----------



## Downrange

Make it an even 5K/500?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make it an even 5K?




_

 

Nahh 5001... the first post doesn't count...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make it an even 5K?




_

 

No! Lets move on further...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still on page 250 here...
 With less than 5000 posts, of which 400 are mine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 ...and I'm on page 333! I presume this is something to do with our differing screen resolutions? Talking of the site, as opposed to matters Staxen, does anybody else find that it takes ages for a page to load these days (post-outage)?


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those brown things are transistors with small heatsinks fitted so they should be ok. only the electrolytic caps would show any signs of leaking while the orange drop film caps would look ok even if they are ruined on the inside. The amp would probably need to be recapped and that isn't that much fun to do._

 

I'm toying with the idea of recapping both amps. Sounds like it would be an adventure; I'm reading up on it. Not that I've done any soldering since I was a kid, or even much then.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and I'm on page 333! I presume this is something to do with our differing screen resolutions? Talking of the site, as opposed to matters Staxen, does anybody else find that it takes ages for a page to load these days (post-outage)?_

 

You can have either 10 or 15 posts per page hence the difference. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm toying with the idea of recapping both amps. Sounds like it would be an adventure; I'm reading up on it. Not that I've done any soldering since I was a kid, or even much then._

 

Just be sure to discharge all caps before you come near them. You can do it by crossing the terminals with a screwdriver and hear a nice pop but it's better to use a resistor with handles that insulate you from the charge.


----------



## Uncle Hank

...and this topic is about???


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Uncle Hank* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and this topic is about???_

 

Stax headspeakers and its related components...


----------



## naamanf

And how many posts/pages it has been talked about


----------



## Uncle Hank

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And how many posts/pages it has been talked about
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Right


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And how many posts/pages it has been talked about
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, this thread are going really off-topic once in a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its also more or less became the general electrostatic headphones (Stax, plus the HE90, HE60, ESP-950, ...) thread. Which is fine for me, as long as we don't cross the line into the world of dynamic headphones...


----------



## gimmish

I recently put an arc ls7 preamp in front of my T1 and my 02's came to life. I liked it so much that I went ahead and bought a set of 4 6922 Siemens tubes. Wow what an amazing difference! I had never tried really good tubes before and was amazed at how much it changed the sound. Soundstage and detail are amazing. What's the deal with the cryo tubes are they worth the extra money? Now I just need to take care of thge noise I developed coming from the output stage of my ModWright sony 777. I couldn't get anyone on the phone last week but i think CES is over so maybe I can get it fixed now, I hope its just the power supply.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently put an arc ls7 preamp in front of my T1 and my 02's came to life. I liked it so much that I went ahead and bought a set of 4 6922 Siemens tubes. Wow what an amazing difference! I had never tried really good tubes before and was amazed at how much it changed the sound. Soundstage and detail are amazing. What's the deal with the cryo tubes are they worth the extra money? Now I just need to take care of thge noise I developed coming from the output stage of my ModWright sony 777. I couldn't get anyone on the phone last week but i think CES is over so maybe I can get it fixed now, I hope its just the power supply._

 

Congrats on your findings. I have been touting the virtues of using a good tubed active pre/linestage ahead of the STAX amps for some time.(search the original STAX thread).I have had mediocre/mixed results with SS. I would try and find some white label Amperex Hollands and/or some Bugleboys. The O2s absolutely LOVE them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, this thread are going really off-topic once in a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Its also more or less became the general electrostatic headphones (Stax, plus the HE90, HE60, ESP-950, ...) thread. Which is fine for me, as long as we don't cross the line into the world of dynamic headphones..._

 

Yuck... dynamics... Where is the vomit smiley when you need it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently put an arc ls7 preamp in front of my T1 and my 02's came to life. I liked it so much that I went ahead and bought a set of 4 6922 Siemens tubes. Wow what an amazing difference! I had never tried really good tubes before and was amazed at how much it changed the sound. Soundstage and detail are amazing. What's the deal with the cryo tubes are they worth the extra money? Now I just need to take care of thge noise I developed coming from the output stage of my ModWright sony 777. I couldn't get anyone on the phone last week but i think CES is over so maybe I can get it fixed now, I hope its just the power supply._

 

Pushing some extra voltage into the T1 sure helps it along. While cryo treatment works wonders on some components they are a joke on tubes. The basic principle works because a colder temperature changes the molecular structure and it needs to be heated to nearly 100°C to change back to its former state. Tubes get very hot, as we all know, so while some part of the pins or something like that might remain unchanged the effects are reversed for the most part. Spend you extra cash on something that does matter like better RCA sockets and internal wiring.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yuck... dynamics... Where is the vomit smiley when you need it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Projectile vomiting... I like it!!!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Nice projectile spew!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yuck... dynamics... Where is the vomit smiley when you need it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Pushing some extra voltage into the T1 sure helps it along. While cryo treatment works wonders on some components they are a joke on tubes. The basic principle works because a colder temperature changes the molecular structure and it needs to be heated to nearly 100°C to change back to its former state. Tubes get very hot, as we all know, so while some part of the pins or something like that might remain unchanged the effects are reversed for the most part. Spend you extra cash on something that does matter like better RCA sockets and internal wiring._

 

Indeed - let's get this bee-otch back on track - and what a better way to start it by announcing that all of my dynamic headphones and amps on the ship have been sold - mostly thanks to Spritzer's help while I was off line for so long. The only item I miss is the EAR HP-4. We need to persuade the Mad Doctor de Paravicini to design an electrostatic amp.

 I took the plunge last night and sent my dealer back home the go ahead to send me the new SR-007II and SRM-007TII. Hopefully he can save me a little money. I just hope the SRM-007TII drives the 4070's better. I am really "jonesing" for the BHSE, but I know it will be awhile.

 Spritzer - Where did you get your information regarding the new Martin Logan pure electrostatic panel? I can't find anything. The CLS deal didn't happen, but I am keeping my eyes peeled open for a pair. I may look at some ESL 57's.

 Man, oh man, am I hungover this morning. Where is the projectile man when I need him?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Ahhh yes....the feeling I get when listening to Grados.


----------



## scud80

i'm interested in trying out an electrostat rig, something of similar price to my dynamic setup ($500ish for amp/phones) for a semi-fair comparison. can i expect to find one of the sr303/323a combos used for around that much? is there anything else i should consider? i listen mostly to rock/alternative/indie/hip-hop/electronic music if that would make a difference ... this might have been answered already (maybe multiple times) but i don't have the energy to go through 500 pages of posts


----------



## 4N6

Scud80, Welcome to Head-Fi and sorry about your wallet!

 You are starting off right and going directly into electrostatics.


----------



## scud80

thanks for the welcome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my wallet isn't all that sad (yet) ... but with all the neat stuff i've been reading about on here it's only a matter of time


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Scud80, Welcome to Head-Fi and sorry about your wallet!
 You are starting off right and going directly into electrostatics. 
 

It cost me $1000+ in the first month and I am still looking 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So good luck


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scud80* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm interested in trying out an electrostat rig, something of similar price to my dynamic setup ($500ish for amp/phones) for a semi-fair comparison. can i expect to find one of the sr303/323a combos used for around that much? is there anything else i should consider? i listen mostly to rock/alternative/indie/hip-hop/electronic music if that would make a difference ... this might have been answered already (maybe multiple times) but i don't have the energy to go through 500 pages of posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I doubt you'll get a 303/323a as cheap as $500. You could probably get a comparable Lambda Pro or Nova with amp for that price, though. Alternatively, the obvious answer is a 2050II, available new for less.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahhh yes....the feeling I get when listening to Grados._

 

Okay, now you've crossed the line.

 I'm listening to my RS-2 with APS v3 cable right now, and they are doing a tremendous job recreating Armik's guitars. My wife wont let me use the STAX at night in the bedroom because they leak sound like a sieve.

 Now, maybe when those SR-Lambda Signatures I just bought arrive, I might be sleeping in the den...


----------



## Voltron

I swear I just posted these pics in this thread and wrote some stuff. Gonna see if they survive this time.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Spritzer,

 I shoulda bought your SR-Lambda Signatures when you had them for sale, instead of the Gamma Pro. These Lambda Sigs that I have on the way cost me the Gamma Pro (to smeggy for the cash to give mapstec and cover shipping), as well as a pair of Triple.fi 10 Pro and Etymotic ER6i.

 The things we do to own nice stats, Sigh...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I swear I just posted these pics in this thread and wrote some stuff. Gonna see if they survive this time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

You have some great stuff in your signature, but your posts will be deleted until you add the STAX to the signature.


----------



## Voltron

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have some great stuff in your signature, but your posts will be deleted until you add the STAX to the signature. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

D'oh! Fixed. Now my posts are safe in this thread!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I swear I just posted these pics in this thread and wrote some stuff. Gonna see if they survive this time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






















_

 

Very nice! I had that same set up long ago. I wish I still did, it was very musical, and my first really serious headphone setup.


----------



## Voltron

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very nice! I had that same set up long ago. I wish I still did, it was very musical, and my first really serious headphone setup._

 

Thanks Bob. I just wanted a little STAX/electrostat goodness without investing in a new high-end rig. I quite enjoy it and it adds a new flavor option.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scud80* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm interested in trying out an electrostat rig, something of similar price to my dynamic setup ($500ish for amp/phones) for a semi-fair comparison. can i expect to find one of the sr303/323a combos used for around that much? is there anything else i should consider? i listen mostly to rock/alternative/indie/hip-hop/electronic music if that would make a difference ... this might have been answered already (maybe multiple times) but i don't have the energy to go through 500 pages of posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Going straight to the Stax thread when you come here is a vise choice (or is it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 I doubt you will find an SRS-3050A system (SR-303 and SRM-323A) for as low as $500. Considering it currently sell for $830 on PriceJapan. But it should be possible score a nice Stax system for $500. Either a new SRS-2050A, or a used system (SR-Lambda/SRD-7, or some other combo).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I swear I just posted these pics in this thread and wrote some stuff. Gonna see if they survive this time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









http://web.mac.com/abedecarre/iWeb/S...s/IMG_0313.jpg
http://web.mac.com/abedecarre/iWeb/S...s/IMG_0318.jpg
http://web.mac.com/abedecarre/iWeb/S...s/IMG_0250.jpg_

 

Nice looking Stax rig you got there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRM-1/MKII and SR-Lambda Pro sure is a great match.


----------



## xenithon

A quick question for anyone who has perhaps used a Benchmark DAC1 with the SRM-717 (or similar energizer)....have you hooked it up via balanced cables and tried setting the DAC1's XLR attenuation jumpers to 0dB (instead of the factory default -20dB)?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed - let's get this bee-otch back on track - and what a better way to start it by announcing that all of my dynamic headphones and amps on the ship have been sold - mostly thanks to Spritzer's help while I was off line for so long. The only item I miss is the EAR HP-4. We need to persuade the Mad Doctor de Paravicini to design an electrostatic amp.

 I took the plunge last night and sent my dealer back home the go ahead to send me the new SR-007II and SRM-007TII. Hopefully he can save me a little money. I just hope the SRM-007TII drives the 4070's better. I am really "jonesing" for the BHSE, but I know it will be awhile.

 Spritzer - Where did you get your information regarding the new Martin Logan pure electrostatic panel? I can't find anything. The CLS deal didn't happen, but I am keeping my eyes peeled open for a pair. I may look at some ESL 57's.

 Man, oh man, am I hungover this morning. Where is the projectile man when I need him?_

 

YGPM. For those that want to know the now mid-fi at best Martin Logan have announced they are trying to get their act together and release a full range ESL again, the CSX. It could be good if they get with the program and start to use 3-5um film instead of the 12um they always use. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer,

 I shoulda bought your SR-Lambda Signatures when you had them for sale, instead of the Gamma Pro. These Lambda Sigs that I have on the way cost me the Gamma Pro (to smeggy for the cash to give mapstec and cover shipping), as well as a pair of Triple.fi 10 Pro and Etymotic ER6i.

 The things we do to own nice stats, Sigh..._

 

Damn that does suck. I should have one or two Sigma Pro's soon if you want... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Bob. I just wanted a little STAX/electrostat goodness without investing in a new high-end rig. I quite enjoy it and it adds a new flavor option._

 

Looking good! How do you like the ED-1 and its effect on the sound?


----------



## randerson3024

Success! All hail krmathis!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





Success! All hail krmathis!_

 

Nice!!! Projectile vomiting is where I got my user name... I was damn good at it to. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the now mid-fi at best Martin Logan have announced they are trying to get their act together and release a full range ESL again, the CSX. It could be good if they get with the program and start to use 3-5um film instead of the 12um they always use. _

 

Yeah, the ML rep was hinting at that at a local audio meet a bit ago. I do harbor secret hope ML hits one out of the park, but I have strong doubts based on ML's track record. I do wish for:

 1. Flat panels instead of curvilinear. I don't care if there's a one-person sweetspot with head-vise. I feel ML has sacrificed ultimate focus and transparency at the sweetspot in favor of a larger sweetspot with their curved panels. 

 2. Thinner diaphragms and more/better stator design resulting in better sensitivity. If Innersound can do it...

 3. Impedance curve that doesn't resemble a rollercoaster.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, the ML rep was hinting at that at a local audio meet a bit ago. I do harbor secret hope ML hits one out of the park, but I have strong doubts based on ML's track record. I do wish for:

 1. Flat panels instead of curvilinear. I don't care if there's a one-person sweetspot with head-vise. I feel ML has sacrificed ultimate focus and transparency at the sweetspot in favor of a larger sweetspot with their curved panels. 

 2. Thinner diaphragms and more/better stator design resulting in better sensitivity. If Innersound can do it...

 3. Impedance curve that doesn't resemble a rollercoaster._

 

Curved panels are only a good idea if they are multi faceted just like Sound Lab is doing. That is also how RTR did it in the 70's. Simply bending the stators will only distort the diaphragm and its movement creating the nasty impedance bumps. 

 While the CLS frame was step in the right direction it should have been higher and thus raising the element higher from the ground. It also needed to be stiffer. Lifting a Quad ESL up on sturdy stands silences all doubts about the ability of Walkers little wonders.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Curved panels are only a good idea if they are multi faceted just like Sound Lab is doing. That is also how RTR did it in the 70's. Simply bending the stators will only distort the diaphragm and its movement creating the nasty impedance bumps. 

 While the CLS frame was step in the right direction it should have been higher and thus raising the element higher from the ground. It also needed to be stiffer. Lifting a Quad ESL up on sturdy stands silences all doubts about the ability of Walkers little wonders._

 

I've owned many stats in my life (including original CLS, CLSII & CLSIIa). I drove the CLS's with a pair of Threshold SA-1 mono blocks. I also used a pair of Entec LF-20 subwoofers. What fond memories! I look forward to hearing the new model.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've owned many stats in my life (including original CLS, CLSII & CLSIIa). I drove the CLS's with a pair of Threshold SA-1 mono blocks. I also used a pair of Entec LF-20 subwoofers. What fond memories! I look forward to hearing the new model._

 

I just hope they have the sense to stay out of the Sound Lab price range as they simply can't beat the M-3 with their current technology. Here's hoping they wont screw it up...


----------



## Downrange

I've just gone with big Maggies for the last twenty years of so...

 Haven't failed me yet!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just gone with big Maggies for the last twenty years of so...

 Haven't failed me yet!_

 

Maggies are good to very good but they need way too much modding to make them a good choice for ultimate fidelity. The same is also true of the new Quads with that nice and tasty electrolytic cap in the signal path...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...Damn that does suck. I should have one or two Sigma Pro's soon if you want... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd be afraid of too things with the Sigma Pros:

 1) How much money you'd take from me for them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 2) How hard my wife and kids would laugh at me the first time they caught me wearing them (and every time after that).


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be afraid of too things with the Sigma Pros:

 1) How much money you'd take from me for them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 2) How hard my wife and kids would laugh at me the first time they caught me wearing them (and every time after that). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh, just turn the volume up - that way you won't actually hear the laughter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And money will come and go - but the chance to access some of spritzer's Sigmas (which we all know would be kept in very good condition) will be rare (as will getting any good condition Sigmas as time marches on).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be afraid of too things with the Sigma Pros:

 1) How much money you'd take from me for them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 2) How hard my wife and kids would laugh at me the first time they caught me wearing them (and every time after that). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't know the price yet as I don't have them in my hands as of yet. They are coming from a collector so they should be good. I've basically started to buy up all the rare Stax phones I can find and sell them at cost back into the community. I also have to make a lot of bad deals when I get some of the rare headphones I want i.e. buy a lot of stuff I already have so I might as well just sell it back after a through check up. Those that don't make the cut I either fix or they end up as spare parts. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, just turn the volume up - that way you won't actually hear the laughter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And money will come and go - but the chance to access some of spritzer's Sigmas (which we all know would be kept in very good condition) will be rare (as will getting any good condition Sigmas as time marches on)._

 

I just turn up the volume as well. Those that hear the Sigmas actually grow to like them a lot even if you look like an idiot wearing them. That goes for both audiophiles and music lovers alike.


----------



## Downrange

Spritz, I modded mine about ten years ago - long story, but I'll PM you if you're interested. They sound fantastic - the secret's in extending the performance of the true ribbon tweeters.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritz, I modded mine about ten years ago - long story, but I'll PM you if you're interested. They sound fantastic - the secret's in extending the performance of the true ribbon tweeters._

 

I'd love to know what you did. I was thinking about an upgraded 1.6 like the are doing over on AA but magnetostatics and ESL's have very different amp requirements so it would be pretty expensive in practice.


----------



## naamanf

Any one with BHs measure the inside case temps?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any one with BHs measure the inside case temps?_

 

It is at least 20-30°C above ambient. Not sure though how high it is.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd love to know what you did. I was thinking about an upgraded 1.6 like the are doing over on AA but magnetostatics and ESL's have very different amp requirements so it would be pretty expensive in practice._

 

My 1.6qr hardly seems like the same speakers. There's nothing stock left in the signal path but the panels. I've had Magnepans since about 1980 (I think?) and I still have a hard time getting excited about the sound of speakers that aren't planar or stat's.BTW how much are the 1.6 over there?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 1.6qr hardly seems like the same speakers. There's nothing stock left in the signal path but the panels. I've had Magnepans since about 1980 (I think?) and I still have a hard time getting excited about the sound of speakers that aren't planar or stat's.BTW how much are the 1.6 over there?_

 

Maggies aren't even available up here but some have been imported. Lovely speakers but would necessitate a different approach to amps as they need current compared to the ESL need for voltage. Huge SS monsters compared to a nimble 845 SET push-pull...


----------



## plaidplatypus

I'd like to try Maggies someday, the MMG looks relatively affordable. Would a Creek "Classic" 5350SE be able to drive them?
 Edit: If not what will?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to try Maggies someday, the MMG looks relatively affordable. Would a Creek "Classic" 5350SE be able to drive them?
 Edit: If not what will?_

 

The Creek should be a able to drive them fairly well but some nice monster power mono blocks would do nicely. You should also check this out for some nice Maggie mods.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Thanks for the info, I believe the picture at the bottom of the linked page shows what is needed. 

Magnestand - Where Maggies Live And Breathe

 Is that a Pass Labs amp?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info, I believe the picture at the bottom of the linked page shows what is needed. 

Magnestand - Where Maggies Live And Breathe

 Is that a Pass Labs amp?_

 

That is a Pass Labs X amp. Probably a X350.5. You can certainly use a lesser amp then that but more power is better.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any one with BHs measure the inside case temps?_

 

too much... that's why I'm going to mount the tubes on the top of the case.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is a Pass Labs X amp. Probably a X350.5. You can certainly use a lesser amp then that but more power is better._

 

I used to have an earlier model, the X350 driving my 1.6's. I liked it at first (very impressive) but it just wasn't musical enough. I've been driving mine with a Conrad Johnson Premier 140 for the last 3-4 years and just love it. The 1.6's have details to burn (especially with a better x-over) so I burned some. 
 You're right though, finding the right amp is the tough part,..thank god for Audiogon!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used to have an earlier model, the X350 driving my 1.6's. I liked it at first (very impressive) but it just wasn't musical enough. I've been driving mine with a Conrad Johnson Premier 140 for the last 3-4 years and just love it. The 1.6's have details to burn (especially with a better x-over) so I burned some. 
 You're right though, finding the right amp is the tough part,..thank god for Audiogon!_

 

I liked the XA amp I heard some years ago but the X series was a bit bland. That C-J must be pretty sweet but could do with some upgrades... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 This is the insane Stax thread after all...


----------



## Comfy

Hi,
 Approaching one thousand posts, time for some real decisions...

 Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse, and now I'm the proud owner of a Stax SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB -combo. 
 My first incursion into electrostatics, and I have to say I'm extremely pleased. Listening to my Lavry DA10 -> balanced HD650 combo after this was shocking. It's not a veil, it's an ocean of mud.
 The Lambdas are just as quick and detailed as I expected, but the amount and quality of the bass blew me away. And all of the recordings sound like they are meant to sound. These aren't headphones for some kinds of music, these are the right headphones for anything you can hear. 

 Anyway, dear _consiglieres_ and _Don_... I have a few ideas and would like some advice, if possible.
 I already ordered a T-amp gen 2 to drive the SRD-7/SB, but I've been eyeing the Dared MP-5 too. Some real good reviews regarding both, but some reviewers make them sound more like mid-fi options.
 Also, I'm a little afraid that the tubes might take away from the detail and quickness, while adding to the already perfect bass. Any views on that?
 Also, do you think the SRD-7/SB will manage with one of these low-wattage amp options, or should I dish out for one of the non-self-biasing models instead?

 Oh, one more: is it possible to use the Lavry DA10 directly with the SRD-7/SB? This is, with some sort of XLR to speaker cable adapter... Too far-fetched?

 Grazie famiglia,
 Il Comfy


----------



## spritzer

The SRD-7SB will work just fine out of any amp with more then 3w or output but the XLR outputs might be a stretch. Whether it will work or not depends on the output voltage of the Lavry as the SRD-7 just multiplies the input voltage by 25 and feeds that to the stators. A normal speaker amp can output some 25v but an XLR output is between 3-8v so not much to work with. 

 Don't be afraid of what the tubes and transformers will do to the sound as most things are better then harsh transistors. I've never heard the Dared in question but those that I have heard were too tubey for their own good. It wasn't bad but certainly not what I look for in an amp. A vintage tube amps should be easy to find on ebay and some are quite good even if they only give out 12w or so. They might need some restoring though so keep that in mind.


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRD-7SB will work just fine out of any amp with more then 3w or output but the XLR outputs might be a stretch. Whether it will work or not depends on the output voltage of the Lavry as the SRD-7 just multiplies the input voltage by 25 and feeds that to the stators. A normal speaker amp can output some 25v but an XLR output is between 3-8v so not much to work with._

 

Here's a quote from the Lavry forum:

 "AES/EBU pro levels: 
 Set to 56 for 24dBu balanced = 34.72V peak to peak = 12.28V r.m.s 
 Set to 56 for 18dBu un-balanced = 17.36V peak to peak = 6.14V r.m.s "

 I have no electrical knowledge myself, so I don't know if this info helps at all.
 Comments?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a quote from the Lavry forum:

 "AES/EBU pro levels: 
 Set to 56 for 24dBu balanced = 34.72V peak to peak = 12.28V r.m.s 
 Set to 56 for 18dBu un-balanced = 17.36V peak to peak = 6.14V r.m.s "

 I have no electrical knowledge myself, so I don't know if this info helps at all.
 Comments?_

 

This means that the maximum voltage swing at the stators would be 307v rms while using the balanced output. That is fine but I don't know how much current the Lavry can give out at full output and the output stage might not like the low input impedance of the SRD-7SB. It is most likely that a good amp, be it SS or tube, will sound better then the Lavry on its own.


----------



## Comfy

Thanks mate.
 I'll wait for that t-amp to arrive before trying out any crazy mods then. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Decided to skip that Dared. Too much tubiness is not what I'm after. 
 Actually, now that I think of it, I'd like to keep the sound I already have. But upgrading is half the hobby, and I'm not really sure where to go next. 
 Maybe I should open a savings account for the big O...

 Edit: 1000th post. Woot! And also the first time a post of mine includes a reference to a certain pair of earspeakers... Destiny?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, one more: is it possible to use the Lavry DA10 directly with the SRD-7/SB? This is, with some sort of XLR to speaker cable adapter... Too far-fetched?

 Grazie famiglia,
 Il Comfy_

 

Yes. The XLR output is considered a low voltage/low current line level signal (no less than 600 ohm load) and is balanced. Your SRD-7SB needs a speaker amplifier level signal (ability to drive a 4-16 ohm load). A amp with between 3-30 watts should be fine.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks mate.
 I'll wait for that t-amp to arrive before trying out any crazy mods then. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Decided to skip that Dared. Too much tubiness is not what I'm after. 
 Actually, now that I think of it, I'd like to keep the sound I already have. But upgrading is half the hobby, and I'm not really sure where to go next. 
 Maybe I should open a savings account for the big O...

 Edit: 1000th post. Woot! And also the first time a post of mine includes a reference to a certain pair of earspeakers... Destiny?_

 

The T-amp is a start but stay away from the Big O. The HE60 is much better value and the SR-007 is just plain better.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The basic T-amp is a start but stay away from the Big O. The HE60 is much better value and the SR-007 is just plain better._

 

Dared MP5 in my opinion is much better than T-Amp. MP5 is basically a Gainclone with tube ECC83 pre-amp. T-Amp is a simple Tripath amp and after listening to both MP5 kicks T-Amp's ass with my SR-Lambdas and SRD-6SB.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dared MP5 in my opinion is much better than T-Amp. MP5 is basically a Gainclone with tube ECC83 pre-amp. T-Amp is a simple Tripath amp and after listening to both MP5 kicks T-Amp's ass with my SR-Lambdas and SRD-6SB. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So the MP5 is that good...? The other, albeit older, Dared products did nearly everything wrong and even more so when hooked up to the owners Sonus Faber speakers.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the MP5 is that good...? The other, albeit older, Dared products did nearly everything wrong and even more so when hooked up to the owners Sonus Faber speakers._

 

Well, let me rephrase it. MP5 is good for the money and it better than T-amp. It's a small simple amp and sounds very sweet and clean when driving sensitive speakers. It is also a good match for SR-Lambda. It reveals it's limitations compared to my Mccormack DNA-1 Deluxe RevB for example or my custom made ECC88/J-FET hybrid amp. Other older Dared amps are also fully tubed and sound very tuby indeed. This amp is a hybrid and sounds like one. Very close to other DYI Gainclone amps that I heard.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,
 Approaching one thousand posts, time for some real decisions...

 Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse, and now I'm the proud owner of a Stax SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB -combo. 
 My first incursion into electrostatics, and I have to say I'm extremely pleased. Listening to my Lavry DA10 -> balanced HD650 combo after this was shocking. It's not a veil, it's an ocean of mud.
 The Lambdas are just as quick and detailed as I expected, but the amount and quality of the bass blew me away. And all of the recordings sound like they are meant to sound. These aren't headphones for some kinds of music, these are the right headphones for anything you can hear._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-Lambda and SRD-7 are a great combo (or so I have heard). Looks like you really enjoy the sound they are putting out as well...

 May you have lots of great listening sessions with it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, now that I think of it, I'd like to keep the sound I already have. But upgrading is half the hobby, and I'm not really sure where to go next. 
 Maybe I should open a savings account for the big O..._

 

He he
 You certainly should open a savings account for the Big O. Cause you will get curious on it some day, and when you have first listened to it you're hooked.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, let me rephrase it. MP5 is good for the money and it better than T-amp. It's a small simple amp and sounds very sweet and clean when driving sensitive speakers. It is also a good match for SR-Lambda. It reveals it's limitations compared to my Mccormack DNA-1 Deluxe RevB for example or my custom made ECC88/J-FET hybrid amp. Other older Dared amps are also fully tubed and sound very tuby indeed. This amp is a hybrid and sounds like one. Very close to other DYI Gainclone amps that I heard._

 

Well beating the t-amp isn't that hard but the Dared is well priced. I'd still buy a vintage Braun or some other EL84 or ECL86 based amp for some vintage tube fun.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well beating the t-amp isn't that hard but the Dared is well priced. I'd still buy a vintage Braun or some other EL84 or ECL86 based amp for some vintage tube fun._

 

I am with you. If you can find a vintage Dynaco for a good price it's a great way to go. But keep in mind Dared is cheap, good looking and small. I traded my old Rotel for it and for me MP5 is much more versatile. The only thing is that the DAC in it is blah....not very good at all. I use it to power my cheap Spherex speakers in my computer system rig, dynamic headphones and SR-Lambdas if I am listening to files from my PC.


----------



## Comfy

Thanks for all the replys, the Stax community really seems to work! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Maybe the MP-5 would be a good beginner option after all. I've had nice experiences with mosfets so far. At least to compare with the T-amp and to later sell the worse of the two. And thanks for the HE60 advice. Now I've got a goal in life.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for all the replys, the Stax community really seems to work! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe the MP-5 would be a good beginner option after all. I've had nice experiences with mosfets so far. At least to compare with the T-amp and to later sell the worse of the two. And thanks for the HE60 advice. Now I've got a goal in life. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice avatar!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am with you. If you can find a vintage Dynaco for a good price it's a great way to go. But keep in mind Dared is cheap, good looking and small. I traded my old Rotel for it and for me MP5 is much more versatile. The only thing is that the DAC in it is blah....not very good at all. I use it to power my cheap Spherex speakers in my computer system rig, dynamic headphones and SR-Lambdas if I am listening to files from my PC. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Speaking of computer speakers. Did anybody see the new King Audio electrostatic desktop speakers... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for all the replys, the Stax community really seems to work! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe the MP-5 would be a good beginner option after all. I've had nice experiences with mosfets so far. At least to compare with the T-amp and to later sell the worse of the two. And thanks for the HE60 advice. Now I've got a goal in life. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good plan. The HE60 is something to look for and you could even find a cheap one since they are just some old headphones with a funny plug to some people.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of computer speakers. Did anybody see the new Kink Audio electrostatic desktop speakers... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sweet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How much do they go for and what are the specs? These could be so nice for nearfield listening.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How much do they go for and what are the specs? These could be so nice for nearfield listening._

 

I don't know anything about them but they could be on the makers site... I'll check.

 Edit: Scroll to the bottom of this page


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of computer speakers. Did anybody see the new King Audio electrostatic desktop speakers... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.audiofederation.com/hifii...4/IMG_5786.jpg_

 

Nice! The King Hummingbird sure looks great.
 I will have to read more up on those...

  Quote:


 Hummingbird
 No hi-fi systems are close to perfect without a super tweeter. Why not let this little bird sit on top of your existing speakers and literally feel the music going through your body?

*Features:*
 - Ultra-thin diaphragm of 0.002 mm, with broader sound field.
 - All around perfect sound.
 - Probably the thinnest electrostatic super tweeter loudspeaker in the world (2.2 cm).
 - Providing an open and airy sound, results in perfect spaciousness not found in any conventional loudspeaker.
 - Incomparable interpreting capacity, air sense, transient response and frequency sound range.

*Specifications:*
 - Frequency response: 5 KHz ~ 50 KHz
 - Crossover frequenies: 8 KHz , 12 KHz , 16 KHz 3 stages control
 - Sensitivity: Equivalent to 90 db / 1W / 1m , measured at 4 meters
 - Gain control: + 3db , 0 db , - 3db 3 stages control
 - Impedance: Normal 4 ohm
 - Audio power ( min / max ): 50 / 200 Watts ( music )
 - Rotate angle: 20 degree
 - Power input: DC 11 ~ 15 V , 120 mA ( AC - DC adaptor included )
 - Size: 65 ( W ) x 22 ( D ) x 340 ( H ) mm
 - Weight: Net weight 1.5 Kg / Each 
 

King's Audio Limited - Maker of KingSound Electrostatic Loudspeakers


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! The King Hummingbird sure looks great.
 I will have to read more up on those...


King's Audio Limited - Maker of KingSound Electrostatic Loudspeakers_

 

I found them as well. They look to be tweeters, so not exactly a desktop solution. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They have small bookshelf speakers, I wounder how they sound.


----------



## spritzer

Yup they look like tweeters. The description on the site where I got the picture said desktop... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is also the small Sound Lab box speaker if you want to be hardcore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


Ministat


----------



## paulb09

One day I will get some Stax (or at least some kind of stats). When I don't know, but it is one of my life objectives


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup they look like tweeters. The description on the site where I got the picture said desktop... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is also the small Sound Lab box speaker if you want to be hardcore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


Ministat_

 

I'm not sure 64 pounds of gear that stands twenty inches tall would qualify as a desktop solution to anybody but us. I mean, that would be as ridiculous as having headphones that required a giant amp box just to work.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Speaking of computer speakers. Did anybody see the new King Audio electrostatic desktop speakers... 
 

 very nice looking speakers
 What is the price of these?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure 64 pounds of gear that stands twenty inches tall would qualify as a desktop solution to anybody but us. I mean, that would be as ridiculous as having headphones that required a giant amp box just to work._

 

Wuss... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is nothing as silly as using a Blue Hawaii to power the SR-003... The drivers are about as big as the XLR inputs but they do sound great. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_very nice looking speakers
 What is the price of these?_

 

I have no idea but the King Sound stuff it pretty cheap thanks to Chinese manufacturing.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_very nice looking speakers
 What is the price of these?_

 

The full size king's retail for $6,000 I read. Not sure about the others.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wuss... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is nothing as silly as using a Blue Hawaii to power the SR-003... The drivers are about as big as the XLR inputs but they do sound great._

 

I *knew* there was a reason I was still thinking about the BH - not for the HE60s, or even for an SR-007 but for the SR-001s (with adapter)! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the re-focussing spritzer!

 BTW, spritzer is right - SQ is king, no matter how much desktop space it takes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ("Boss, what do you mean you gave me the desk for my intray? By the way, what's an intray? How does it improve SQ?" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The full size king's retail for $6,000 I read. Not sure about the others._

 

Yes, the reviews mention $US6K for the King and $US33K for the Emperor. I'm going to contact the local Australian distributor to give them a listen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for showing them to us, spritzer.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the reviews mention $US6K for the King and $US33K for the Emperor. I'm going to contact the local Australian distributor to give them a listen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Well, the distributor out here doesn't bring the Emporers in because they are 'made to order'. Apparently I could demo them by going over to Hong Kong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They referred me to a showroom they said had the Kings but the showroom only has the Queens. I might still go over but it seems it'll be hard for me to demo the higher end models.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, enough of this distraction - time for the discussion to head back to Stax?


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I liked the XA amp I heard some years ago but the X series was a bit bland. That C-J must be pretty sweet but could do with some upgrades... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is the insane Stax thread after all... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I guess I'm in the right place then,.. I'm planning on upgrading the coupling caps to V-Caps eventually. There's a few other teflon caps out now and I'm waiting for the dust to settle before laying down that kind of cash. The SCR's are really nice, but the new Audience's aren't as good sounding as the regular AuriCaps (a reliable source told me).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I *knew* there was a reason I was still thinking about the BH - not for the HE60s, or even for an SR-007 but for the SR-001s (with adapter)! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the re-focussing spritzer!

 BTW, spritzer is right - SQ is king, no matter how much desktop space it takes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ("Boss, what do you mean you gave me the desk for my intray? By the way, what's an intray? How does it improve SQ?" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

The BH also works well on the HE60 so it is not _just_ for the SR-001/3 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think the boss would be even more frustrated when you would have removed the computer from the desk to fit a large valve amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I'm in the right place then,.. I'm planning on upgrading the coupling caps to V-Caps eventually. There's a few other teflon caps out now and I'm waiting for the dust to settle before laying down that kind of cash. The SCR's are really nice, but the new Audience's aren't as good sounding as the regular AuriCaps (a reliable source told me)._

 

I like the V-caps but can't stand the sound of Teflon so Mundorfs get a higher mark in my book. They are cheaper as well and nearly indestructible with a 1200v rating at 100+°C. I would also replace all connectors and internal wiring with silver and even PSU caps. It's funny how C-J has "discovered" Teflon caps lately and multiple smaller PSU's instead of one big one.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level.

 To think these are the lowest end Stax system kind of makes me sick though. Looking at the cost of upgrading makes me sicker!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level.

 To think these are the lowest end Stax system kind of makes me sick though. Looking at the cost of upgrading makes me sicker!_

 


 ...bitter git owt now, son, afore it's too layte (spoken with 'old-timer Western' voice).


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level.

 To think these are the lowest end Stax system kind of makes me sick though. Looking at the cost of upgrading makes me sicker!_

 

Here's an upgrade path for you: buy an SR-5 or SR-X with transformer for a little less than you spent on the SR-001. Be amazed again. Wait a few months, then sell both Stax kits to pay for a 2050II system. You'll never really see the money bleeding away.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paulb09* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One day I will get some Stax (or at least some kind of stats). When I don't know, but it is one of my life objectives 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Lets hope you get sooner rather than later!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level.

 To think these are the lowest end Stax system kind of makes me sick though. Looking at the cost of upgrading makes me sicker!_

 

Great to see that you enjoy the little Stax system.
 I may be the entry level model. But depending on the path you take, and improvement wont necessarily cost you an arm and a leg.
 For $200 more you get a new SRS-2050A system, or a vintage system (ex. SR-Lambda and SRD-7) for about the same as you paid for the SRM-001MK2.

 So come back for more when your wallet have healed!


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I'm in the right place then,.. I'm planning on upgrading the coupling caps to V-Caps eventually. There's a few other teflon caps out now and I'm waiting for the dust to settle before laying down that kind of cash. The SCR's are really nice, but the new Audience's aren't as good sounding as the regular AuriCaps (a reliable source told me)._

 

I prefer the new Audience caps actually. If your sonic goals are achieved with the regular Auricaps, I can see how you wouldn't like the new teflon caps. However, if you're tired of the overanalytical nature of the regular Auricaps, the teflons are a very nice upgrade.


----------



## gimmish

I'm ready to order parts for my srm-t1 mods. What input wire and guage would be best? Also, I am looking at Eichman rca inputs are there any other suggestions. I would really appreciate the feedback.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level. 
 

I was mostly surprised that the more expensive and better Stax sets don't bite the SR-001. I use the SR-001 almost every day (in the bedroom connected to a Zune) and I don't have the urge to run down to get a bigger set.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm ready to order parts for my srm-t1 mods. What input wire and guage would be best? Also, I am looking at Eichman rca inputs are there any other suggestions. I would really appreciate the feedback._

 

I used the WBT silver nextgen sockets and some leftover cotton covered VH Audio wire I had. It was 28AWG and is fine for the input wiring but I'd use something thicker for the rest of the amps wiring.


----------



## gimmish

thanks, I think I am going to use Kimber solid silver 19AWG then.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks, I think I am going to use Kimber solid silver 19AWG then._

 

That's a good choice but don't pay more then 15$/m for it. You can certainly get better wire for about that amount or slightly more.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

A few up for sale by head-fiers - been watching the SRX mk3 all day but I'm not biting, I have Lambda Sigs on the way...

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...tem-ii-286809/

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...on-pro-286607/

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...-added-286647/


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...europe-283597/


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few up for sale by head-fiers - been watching the SRX mk3 all day but I'm not biting, I have Lambda Sigs on the way..._

 

Aww, c'mon bite man! If you are in the Stax mafia, you can make me a deal I can't refuse.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I prefer the new Audience caps actually. If your sonic goals are achieved with the regular Auricaps, I can see how you wouldn't like the new teflon caps. However, if you're tired of the overanalytical nature of the regular Auricaps, the teflons are a very nice upgrade._

 

Have you compared Aura Teflon caps to any other teflon caps? 

 You seem to be saying regular Auricaps sound more analytical than Aura Teflons, which worries me b/c IMO Auricaps are not particularly analytical or super resolving to begin with..


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was mostly surprised that the more expensive and better Stax sets don't bite the SR-001. I use the SR-001 almost every day (in the bedroom connected to a Zune) and I don't have the urge to run down to get a bigger set._

 

That's good to hear. The SR-001 still trumps everything I've owned so far which admittedly isn't that much but still. 

 I'm still curious about higher end Stax systems and hope to audition some soon but there are no dealers around here that I know of. If I ever catch a pair of affordable vintage Stax I'll definitely buy them up though.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aww, c'mon bite man! If you are in the Stax mafia, you can make me a deal I can't refuse._

 

Well, I'm ashamed to admit I also bought a new SR-001 Mk2 on Wednesday evening (and APS re-cabled Grado HF-1 #28 on Tuesday, and I'm looking to buy a new CD player), so the money is all used up for a while...


----------



## pdennis

Yuck... having my first experience with my new SR-X III system being more revealing than I'm used to. Just got a recording of "Boris Godunov" from the library, Bolshoi/Melik-Pashayev. Guess it should be no surprise that Russian sound engineering in 1963 wasn't exactly state-of-the-art, but really this approaches unlistenable. Grainy and veiled, with occasional touches of fizzy distortion at orchestral peaks. I'm currently hanging on with grim determination.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yuck... having my first experience with my new SR-X III system being more revealing than I'm used to. Just got a recording of "Boris Godunov" from the library, Bolshoi/Melik-Pashayev. Guess it should be no surprise that Russian sound engineering in 1963 wasn't exactly state-of-the-art, but really this approaches unlistenable. Grainy and veiled, with occasional touches of fizzy distortion at orchestral peaks. I'm currently hanging on with grim determination._

 

I feel for you, the SR-X III is about the worst headphone you could have when it comes to poor recordings. 

 So here's a question for the panel: *which electrostats are the most forgiving for bad recordings?* Of course, it's something at which no stat should excel in principle, but surely there are some that can smooth over a bad recording better than others. Of the four I've had, the Superex pep-74 definitely leads in this regard.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel for you, the SR-X III is about the worst headphone you could have when it comes to poor recordings. 

 So here's a question for the panel: *which electrostats are the most forgiving for bad recordings?* Of course, it's something at which no stat should excel in principle, but surely there are some that can smooth over a bad recording better than others. Of the four I've had, the Superex pep-74 definitely leads in this regard._

 

I would say the Omega 2, SR-Lambda (Low Bias), SR-003 and Koss ESP-950 (not because they smooth over detail, they have a more forgiving tonal balance).

 I also think that it's a BAD idea to drive a SR-XIII/SRD-7 with a old solid state receiver. Yuk! It was the sound of early SS that drove the resurgence of the vacuum tubes by companies like Audio Research and Conrad-Johnson. Get a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70 and be happy.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel for you, the SR-X III is about the worst headphone you could have when it comes to poor recordings. 

 So here's a question for the panel: *which electrostats are the most forgiving for bad recordings?* Of course, it's something at which no stat should excel in principle, but surely there are some that can smooth over a bad recording better than others. Of the four I've had, the Superex pep-74 definitely leads in this regard._

 

Well, the SR-5 would be better for bad recordings (the less sophisticated step sister to the SRX). I often prefer the SR-5 to the SRX for FM listening because I don't hear as much "airwave hiss".

 Actually, the bad recordings were a Communist plot to lower peoples' expectations. Seriously though, some of the music-making on those Soviet recordings makes it worth suffering through the fidelity - that's what I use speakers for.


----------



## webbie64

A thread distraction but does anybody need a box?

 I'll follow this with interest. Perhaps I can sell my Stax boxes to raise more funds for headphones


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A thread distraction but does anybody need a box?

 I'll follow this with interest. Perhaps I can sell my Stax boxes to raise more funds for headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did not expect to see an empty card box to come up for sale on eBay.
 But guess they sell "anything" in there...

 I have the original box, plastic bag, etc. for my SRM-1/MK2 Pro. So definitely don't need this one.


----------



## Faust2D

If you are selling SRM-1 the box can add some $ to you SRM-1, I just wander if what you paid for the box will be less than the value it will add


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel for you, the SR-X III is about the worst headphone you could have when it comes to poor recordings. 

 So here's a question for the panel: *which electrostats are the most forgiving for bad recordings?* Of course, it's something at which no stat should excel in principle, but surely there are some that can smooth over a bad recording better than others. Of the four I've had, the Superex pep-74 definitely leads in this regard._

 

I would say SR-007, SR-Omega, SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma. It's almost always the best equipment that manages do bring out the best in every recording as they are transparent enough not to color everything in the same way. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also think that it's a BAD idea to drive a SR-XIII/SRD-7 with a old solid state receiver. Yuk! It was the sound of early SS that drove the resurgence of the vacuum tubes by companies like Audio Research and Conrad-Johnson. Get a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70 and be happy._

 

Generally true but there were some good amps back then. Sansui, Kenwood and Sony all had great sounding models but a lot of crap as well. A modded Dynaco would be nice as well.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A thread distraction but does anybody need a box?

 I'll follow this with interest. Perhaps I can sell my Stax boxes to raise more funds for headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd want the box, but if it was a head-fi to head-fi sale or trade, not on ebay. Harvii will push it up over $100...


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also think that it's a BAD idea to drive a SR-XIII/SRD-7 with a old solid state receiver. Yuk! It was the sound of early SS that drove the resurgence of the vacuum tubes by companies like Audio Research and Conrad-Johnson. Get a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70 and be happy._

 

What an unusual opinion. Have you tried a decent SS receiver from the seventies with an SR-X? It's smoother and more engaging than with a typical Stax amp, and much more so than with a more recent solid state amp. I haven't had the chance to try one with an old tube amp yet, though.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A thread distraction but does anybody need a box?

 I'll follow this with interest. Perhaps I can sell my Stax boxes to raise more funds for headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My favorite part of that auction is that he wants $12 to ship the empty box within the US. Shameless.


----------



## kpeezy

I shipped out my SR-001 MK2 system today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I listened to them right before and I'm SO SAD THEY HURT MY EARS. Gotta get a bigger set.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What an unusual opinion. Have you tried a decent SS receiver from the seventies with an SR-X? It's smoother and more engaging than with a typical Stax amp, and much more so than with a more recent solid state amp. I haven't had the chance to try one with an old tube amp yet, though._

 

I don't find it unusual at all. I owned a "High-End" audio store in the mid-seventies and was one of the largest Stax dealers in the US. I heard the SR-XIII driven from a Marantz 2215 to a Stax DA-300. Even some of the best Solid State of the late seventies (Threshold 800A, Mark Levinson ML-2's & Stax DA-300) would not be my choice today for the SR-XIII IMO. Almost all early SS amps are not open or transparent (I'm not including the ones above). I still say get a old cheap Dynaco ST-35 or 70. You'll see.


----------



## billinkansas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't find it unusual at all. I owned a "High-End" audio store in the mid-seventies and was one of the largest Stax dealers in the US. I heard the SR-XIII driven from a Marantz 2215 to a Stax DA-300. Even some of the best Solid State of the late seventies (Threshold 800A, Mark Levinson ML-2's & Stax DA-300) would not be my choice today for the SR-XIII IMO. Almost all early SS amps are not open or transparent (I'm not including the ones above). I still say get a old cheap Dynaco ST-35 or 70. You'll see._

 

Agreed. I had a Harmon Kardan receiver that was ok, but not great with Stax. I usually use a Fisher X-100C integrated tube amp. I wouldn't exactly call it transparent, but it is beautifully clear and clean. It lends a nice ambient glow to the midrange that really vlossoms with the SRX. I'm running vintage long plate Telefunken 12AX7's in the driver positions, and NOS Phillips 7025's (low noise long plate 12AX7's) in the preamp positions. I really like this amp, sounds great with speakers too, and it drives dynamic cans well too (not that anyone on this thread cares about this!). 

 Interestingly enough, my favorite sounding amp for Stax X-formers is a flea-powered modded Magnavox SE EL84. It has deep rich bass and does everything just right for my ears, except that huge pipe organ and really percussive piano music will overdrive it if I'm not careful. Unfortunately, I always seem to end up fighting ground loop noise and the amp hums intermittently with changing conditions in the AC feed (lghts, washig machings, etc. There is none of that with the Fisher, so it is my daily amp of choice. None of the Stax amps sound very good to me after my ears get wrapped around the Fisher, and after the Fisher tubes cook nicely for an hour or so. To my ears, the Stax amps benefit from a feed off the Fisher preamp-out jacks. I want good ambient sound, as though I was there in person for live music. The Stax amps are clean and very quiet, but very dry and clinical to me.

 I also have a modern KT-88 SE amp with the new Genelex Gold Lion reissue power tubes. This is very sweet with the Stax tranformers as well, and sounds especially good with the SR-Lambdas and SR-303.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interestingly enough, my favorite sounding amp for Stax X-formers is a flea-powered modded Magnavox SE EL84._

 

I love the EL84 sound! The best amp that I remember for the SR-XIII was the Luxman 3045 class A triode tube amps. I have 2 pair of SR-XIII that I hardly use anymore. All this talk is making me hungry for a listen.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_So here's a question for the panel: *which electrostats are the most forgiving for bad recordings?* Of the four I've had, the Superex pep-74 definitely leads in this regard._

 

If the rumors are true and the Superex is a copy of a Stax SR-3, then my recommendation of one of the SR-3 clones (Realistic-Magnavox-Marantz) is right in line with yours. I find them very mellow, which is not what you'd expect a 'stat to sound like, especially from back then. I suspect that among other things, the 3-clones weren't highly damped, giving them less _acutance_, to borrow a term from photography. Nothing to do with cuteness.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I also think that it's a BAD idea to drive a SR-XIII/SRD-7 with a old solid state receiver. Yuk! It was the sound of early SS that drove the resurgence of the vacuum tubes by companies like Audio Research and Conrad-Johnson._

 

It's especially risky to use an early receiver, say pre-1978. Audiod and I were there, and actually heard this stuff. I'm sure there were exceptions here and there, but normally Japanese audio mfrs back then didn't design and market ultra high-end "statement" receivers, and if they did, those models never made it to North America. The Great Receiver Power Wars of the '70s didn't help the cause of sound quality, either, except with respect to dynamic range. A high-powered receiver isn't necessarily going to sound bad, but as the design is pulled out of shape to favor high power over everything else, compromises are made, and a receiver is already a compromise.

 Having said that, there were some very good sounding receivers, but as far as I can recall, none of the really good ones were built before [I'll go out on a limb here] 1979. And you want to stay in the sweet spot, the ~50-watt range.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_What an unusual opinion._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* 
_I don't find it unusual at all._

 

Guys, guys, you're *both* right! If you want ultrasmooth (but at a price, both monetary and otherwise), sure, go for the old tube receiver/Dyna. But this is comparing apples and Space Food Stix. We should specify price range, year range and expectations. Thoroughly entertaining old gear can be had for the price of a Realistic HP-100. Old Dyna tube stuff that's been brought up to date can sound mighty good, but it ain't cheap, not anymore, and usually needs big 'spensive parts upgrades. As long as you steer clear of SS gear from before-- all right, let's make the absolute cutoff date 1976-- and don't pay a fortune for one of the fad brands, you should be fine, and you'll be even better if you stay near the TOTL models, which usually had better parts. Of course, replacing old electrolytics is never a bad idea no matter what vintage stuff you buy.

 Rule of thumb: 1973 was a bad year for US cars and affordable solid state (= transistorized!) audio gear. HINT: Avoid receivers and go for integrated amps and separate preamps and power amps.

 .


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you compared Aura Teflon caps to any other teflon caps? 

 You seem to be saying regular Auricaps sound more analytical than Aura Teflons, which worries me b/c IMO Auricaps are not particularly analytical or super resolving to begin with.._

 

I've only used the V-Caps in bypassing situations. I've used the Aura caps as output / coupling caps on a preamp. A very important thing people don't realize with caps is that the function of the cap plays a large role in the final sound. All this to say, yes, I find the regular Auricaps more analytical than the new Teflon caps.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say the Omega 2, SR-Lambda (Low Bias), SR-003 and Koss ESP-950 (not because they smooth over detail, they have a more forgiving tonal balance).

 I also think that it's a BAD idea to drive a SR-XIII/SRD-7 with a old solid state receiver. Yuk! It was the sound of early SS that drove the resurgence of the vacuum tubes by companies like Audio Research and Conrad-Johnson. Get a old Dynaco Stereo 35 or 70 and be happy._

 

I'd say the SR-007 way before I would the Koss ESP-950... in fact, they are a bit opposite in this regard in my opinion. Nice thing about the SR-007 is it's a sibilance killer in my system... not so with the Koss.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billinkansas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..my favorite sounding amp for Stax X-formers is a flea-powered modded Magnavox SE EL84._

 

Me, too. SE EL84 is a wonderful (and not overpriced yet) thing, and it drives my Stax SRD-7 MkII fantastically.


----------



## billinkansas

The Fisher X100C lends a very natural sounding ambient fullness to the SRX and slightly reigns in the hot top end without any real loss of detail. I find this a sublime amp for the SRX - has become one of my favorite hadphones. I sometimes take the bass control up a bit, and the treble control down as well. This is a late tube amp from about 1967 or 68. Fisher stopped making their great tube equipment about 1969 or so. 

 This amp has a pair of NOS Phillips 7025's in the preamp stage, vintage long plate Telefunken 12AX7's in the driver stage, and a quad of aging but still able Sylvania 7868 power tubes. It also has a very sweet sounding phono stage with an additional pair of 12AX7's.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I shipped out my SR-001 MK2 system today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I listened to them right before and I'm SO SAD THEY HURT MY EARS. Gotta get a bigger set._

 

A bigger set of what, Ballz?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my Stax SR-001 for only 3 weeks now but I'm completely sold on the Stax sound. There is some serious roll off with the highs but there isn't any audible distortion that I can hear when I EQ the highs to an appropriate level.

 To think these are the lowest end Stax system kind of makes me sick though. Looking at the cost of upgrading makes me sicker!_

 

Some modest tweaking may help these little guys. I don't know what interconnect you are using to the amp but a better grade one may boost the treble. I found that Headroom's $20.00 short connector helped a lot. I also use silver paste (Silclear) on the connecters. I suspect that a silver interconnect might sound pretty good but I haven't tried that.

 Some people prefer the sound with the amp running from a good transformer. Or just keep your batteries charged. 

 Or as was reported some while back in this thread, you can soup up the amplifier.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some modest tweaking may help these little guys. I don't know what interconnect you are using to the amp but a better grade one may boost the treble. I found that Headroom's $20.00 short connector helped a lot. I also use silver paste (Silclear) on the connecters. I suspect that a silver interconnect might sound pretty good but I haven't tried that.

 Some people prefer the sound with the amp running from a good transformer. Or just keep your batteries charged. 

 Or as was reported some while back in this thread, you can soup up the amplifier._

 

Agreed to use of Silver - silver mini-2-minis are what I use with all my portable, including the Stax.

 I use a 4.5volt battery pack into the power adapter plug - slight SQ improvement IMHO.

 The amp mod thread is here.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the rumors are true and the Superex is a copy of a Stax SR-3, then my recommendation of one of the SR-3 clones (Realistic-Magnavox-Marantz) is right in line with yours. I find them very mellow, which is not what you'd expect a 'stat to sound like, especially from back then. I suspect that among other things, the 3-clones weren't highly damped, giving them less acutance, to borrow a term from photography. Nothing to do with cuteness._

 

I'm certain that Suprex didn't use Stax drivers even if they are similar. Nothing else is even remotely similar so it might be that Suprex simply cloned the Stax drivers. They are similar to the casual eye but there are some notable differences such as the plastic used and how the stators were mounted. The clone drivers were a cross between the SR-3 New and SR-5 (older non N version) drivers. Certainly not bad drivers but with one major flaw... they used copper strips to connect the stators to the solder lugs and those corrode. Stax always used nickel plated wires for this so it's almost like they didn't want the clones to last long in the field. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The clones are so mellow because of the build quality, heavy damping and a more closed backwave then the SR-3, 5's. The Realistic and Magnavox have unsecured drivers (they just sit there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) but are pushed into place with the 1" thick foam piece acting as a damper. The Marantz has the drivers sealed to the baffle with cement with a sheet of mineral wool acting as a damper. The housing is in reality ported as the opening isn't placed directly to the back of the drivers.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd say the SR-007 way before I would the Koss ESP-950... in fact, they are a bit opposite in this regard in my opinion. Nice thing about the SR-007 is it's a sibilance killer in my system... not so with the Koss._

 

My ESP-950's do not have the upper midrange bite that most of the Lambda series has and makes listening to old pop recordings more listenable. They also are not as bright at the very very top. I’ve owned 3 sets and they all don’t sound the same. Two of mine had squealing problems and had a wispy top. The ones I have are new factory replacements (my second). I still prefer the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro's (my fav Lambda's) to the 950 with the best program material. I drive them with my SR-007t not the awful Koss box.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My ESP-950's do not have the upper midrange bite that most of the Lambda series has and makes listening to old pop recordings more listenable. They also are not as bright at the very very top. I’ve owned 3 sets and they all don’t sound the same. Two of mine had squealing problems and had a wispy top. The ones I have are new factory replacements (my second). I still prefer the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro's (my fav Lambda's) to the 950 with the best program material. I drive them with my SR-007t not the awful Koss box._

 

audiod:

 my experience is similar. The first pair I had were very loud. The ones I just received have 2007 marked on the stators. They are quieter and seem to be a bit more controlled and much more refined highs. I am breaking them in as much as possible before our next meet and we'll get some more impressions then. I have installed a SR-007 cable on these and the transformation is huge in my opinion, I would definitely recommend this to get the most out of these headphones. I may have an extra cable coming up in the near future if you're at all interested. I had no idea how expensive these things are...

 Anyways, I'm hoping to get some more people on the ESP-950 bandwagon. I'm guessing that people who like driving, high energy music will really like its sound signature.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyways, I'm hoping to get some more people on the ESP-950 bandwagon. I'm guessing that people who like driving, high energy music will really like its sound signature._

 

Maybe with Alex's switch select bias mod for the BH this will be possible.... I know KG is also a fan, though I'll get on the OII bandwagon first - but, gasp, I have the dynamic bug again...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe with Alex's switch select bias mod for the BH this will be possible.... I know KG is also a fan, though I'll get on the OII bandwagon first - but, gasp, I have the dynamic bug again..._

 

well, my adjustable bias maxes out at 620v (by design) and this is where these 'stats love to be (according to KG as well). We can always up your bias temporarily...


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, my adjustable bias maxes out at 620v (by design) and this is where these 'stats love to be (according to KG as well). We can always up your bias temporarily..._


----------



## Peter Gunn

Hi all

 My Magnestand stat counter informed me of this thread so I thought I'd just clarify a few things.

 First, that Creek amp will drive them, but being english gear it's more suited for playing harbeth type monitors. Maggies are rare in the UK and their gear is not really designed with driving them in mind. Not that it can't, but for the money you can do better. 

 What you'll find with maggies is they have different levels of ability, based upon the amount of (good) current you can pour into them. (current, not watts) At a certain point they "light up", and that's when the magic happens. You can always play them with lesser stuff, but you get a lesser result, that's all. 

 The amp in the picture is mine, and it's an X250 not the X350.5 This is a good example of more not being more as it is the considered opinion (and mine as well) that the X250 sounds better than the 350 series. Why is unclear but most people who get to hear both feel that way. I did and in my mind the X250 is far more musical and actually the best sounding of the Pass lot. They can be had used for as little as $2,300 and for that price you can't do better.

 If you want tube amps, your best bet is the TAD-1000 monoblocks (2baudio.com) For $1,600 new they cannot be touched.

 Otherwise your best budget bet is a Conrad Johnson Sonographe SA250. They can be had for $500 used and will drive the maggies very well, and you'll love the sound.

 My best advice however is take your time, and upgrade slow, and enjoy it while you're doing it. It will just keep getting better and better.

 Good luck.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Welcome to Head-Fi, Sorry about your wallet..... 

 Thanks for visting PG. I'm curious, do you own any headphones?


----------



## spritzer

Welcome PG but all this inferior magneto planar stuff belongs in the Orthodynamic roundup... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Crazy people using magnets... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maggies have a lot of built in potential but suffer from the same things most planars have ranging all the way back to the Quad ESL i.e. build quality.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_













































_

 

and don't think I didn't push them further before returning them for a check-up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













 I got up to around 650v, so it can be done 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm going to side with KG on this one, 620v is magical. If you want to ear some bass on a 'stat, set it at 600v... it's insane. This time next week you'll know first hand!


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't find it unusual at all. I owned a "High-End" audio store in the mid-seventies and was one of the largest Stax dealers in the US. I heard the SR-XIII driven from a Marantz 2215 to a Stax DA-300. Even some of the best Solid State of the late seventies (Threshold 800A, Mark Levinson ML-2's & Stax DA-300) would not be my choice today for the SR-XIII IMO. Almost all early SS amps are not open or transparent (I'm not including the ones above). I still say get a old cheap Dynaco ST-35 or 70. You'll see._

 

I just mean unusual in the sense that old ss stuff is often mentioned in a breath with the transformers, admittedly also by me. My old junk receivers have sounded better than the much more expensive and powerful ss stuff I got in the nineties, but so far the only tube amp I've ever had is strictly for my orthodynamic headphones. Very interesting stuff here, thanks audiod.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the rumors are true and the Superex is a copy of a Stax SR-3, then my recommendation of one of the SR-3 clones (Realistic-Magnavox-Marantz) is right in line with yours. I find them very mellow, which is not what you'd expect a 'stat to sound like, especially from back then. I suspect that among other things, the 3-clones weren't highly damped, giving them less acutance, to borrow a term from photography. Nothing to do with cuteness._

 

The Magnavox sound a lot like an SR-5 and presumably even more like a 3; the Superex do not sound like any Stax I've heard. The mellowness, however, does apply to both.


  Quote:


 It's especially risky to use an early receiver, say pre-1978. Audiod and I were there, and actually heard this stuff. I'm sure there were exceptions here and there, but normally Japanese audio mfrs back then didn't design and market ultra high-end "statement" receivers, and if they did, those models never made it to North America. The Great Receiver Power Wars of the '70s didn't help the cause of sound quality, either, except with respect to dynamic range. A high-powered receiver isn't necessarily going to sound bad, but as the design is pulled out of shape to favor high power over everything else, compromises are made, and a receiver is already a compromise.

 Having said that, there were some very good sounding receivers, but as far as I can recall, none of the really good ones were built before [I'll go out on a limb here] 1979. And you want to stay in the sweet spot, the ~50-watt range. 
 

50 watts per channel, or total draw? I'll be trying out a few different models in the next month, side effect of putting together a couple of $200 vintage ss apartment stereos (i.e., receivers and bookshelf speakers, then I beg them to get a passable dac source rather than just use their laptop headphone outs, but these aren't audiophiles and the wooden cases and metal front plates matter more to them than SQ) as favors for friends. So far I've either tried or have on the docket a Sherwood, a Sansui, a Yamaha, and either an Onkyo or Pioneer depending how the auctions go. Of course I'll keep the least of the evils for my own use, but now you've got me worried. Anyway, I already know from experience that I think my SR-X sounds warmer and fuller from the Sherwood S-7100 than from an SRM-1 mk2. 

 I won't be venturing into any tube madness until I finally polish off my dissertation and get a real job (tube amps and adjunct professoring do not go together, people), but I'd like a decent placeholder solution to get me through the year in between.

  Quote:


 Guys, guys, you're *both* right! If you want ultrasmooth (but at a price, both monetary and otherwise), sure, go for the old tube receiver/Dyna. But this is comparing apples and Space Food Stix. We should specify price range, year range and expectations... 
 

Yes, I'm talking exclusively for a sub-$400 solution to drive normal-bias Stax and similar vintage stats, often as little as $100 counting SRD box with a little bargain hunting. If the investment gets much higher, why bother with the normal-bias stuff at all?

  Quote:


 Rule of thumb: 1973 was a bad year for US cars and affordable solid state (= transistorized!) audio gear. HINT: Avoid receivers and go for integrated amps and separate preamps and power amps. 
 

Why stay away from receivers? The common Marantz and Sansui integrated amps, for instance, seem to offer no advantage over their receiver stablemates, and conventional wisdom on the usual audio sites seems to support this as far as I can tell, and for what that's worth in itself. Certainly I do see the rapid improvement in measurable performance at the end of the seventies, followed by a sharp bust in the early 80s. Seems like a good vein to shop for extremely inexpensive stereo equipment, but I say this as a relatively young man with at the moment a thin wallet indeed.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 620v is magical. If you want to ear some bass on a 'stat, set it at 600v... it's insane. This time next week you'll know first hand!_

 

I will know it by tomorrow! adding a 12V zeners to my variable supply right now (the current max bias level is only at 612V.....never would have thought I will need more than that) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ]

 Lets see what the 624V can do for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 By the way, can you shine some light on the "DIY silver vs. SR007 cable" comparison? 

 will be fun.....


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, can you shine some light on the "DIY silver vs. SR007 cable" comparison?_

 

Also very interested in this.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I may have an extra cable coming up in the near future if you're at all interested. I had no idea how expensive these things are..._

 

Thanks for the offer but I'm keeping the phones stock. I put a Stax connector on the extension cord. You never know when I may need to send them back for another replacement. I love the lifetime warranty!


----------



## rickreedsr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome PG but all this inferior magneto planar stuff belongs in the Orthodynamic roundup... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Crazy people using magnets... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maggies have a lot of built in potential but suffer from the same things most planars have ranging all the way back to the Quad ESL i.e. build quality._

 

I am puzzled by your "build quality" comment regarding Magneplanars. I was a Magenpan and ARC dealer back in the 70's and 80's. I have owned several pair of Maggies...from a pair of Tympani IIIa's to a my current pair of MG1.6/QRs. Magnepan expects their dealers to set up each pair that they sell, so I've seen LOTS of Magneplanars. I have never seen what I would call a build quality issue, though one could argue that early Magneplanar speaker stands were a bit crude.

 With really old Maggies that have had long term exposure to UV, there can be an eventual problem with the wire separating from the diaphragm in places. (sunlight through the sliding glass doors 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that some Maggies have had to deal with, especially in Florida). I have only seen this a couple of times with 10+ year old Maggies, and it is pretty easy to repair. Could you be more specific about the build quality statement?

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickreedsr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am puzzled by your "build quality" comment regarding Magneplanars. I was a Magenpan and ARC dealer back in the 70's and 80's. I have owned several pair of Maggies...from a pair of Tympani IIIa's to a my current pair of MG1.6/QRs. Magnepan expects their dealers to set up each pair that they sell, so I've seen LOTS of Magneplanars. I have never seen what I would call a build quality issue, though one could argue that early Magneplanar speaker stands were a bit crude.

 With really old Maggies that have had long term exposure to UV, there can be an eventual problem with the wire separating from the diaphragm in places. (sunlight through the sliding glass doors 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that some Maggies have had to deal with, especially in Florida). I have only seen this a couple of times with 10+ year old Maggies, and it is pretty easy to repair. Could you be more specific about the build quality statement?

 Thanks!_

 

I wasn't referring to that they are badly made. Their long lifetime with minimal service is the best testament to that. What I don't like are the materials used and the lack of bracing to stiffen up the frame. Since Quad has figured it out (with no design talent at all left in the company) I think it is time for Magneplanar to do the same. It would be very expensive to go to the lengths Peter Gunn is doing but some measures to give the elements a firm anchor to push against. The crossover parts are also a joke but that is with almost every hi-fi speaker out there, no matter the cost. 

 The only planar company that has done anything about this is Sound Lab with the massive U line and hot rodded backplates. Quad is worse of then Magneplanar since they lack the genius of the like of Peter Walker so they are still using the flawed manufacturing techniques that surfaced with the ESL63 and have installed electrolytic caps in the signal path. They do sound good but could be so much better.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wasn't referring to that they are badly made. Their long lifetime with minimal service is the best testament to that. What I don't like are the materials used and the lack of bracing to stiffen up the frame. Since Quad has figured it out (with no design talent at all left in the company) I think it is time for Magneplanar to do the same. It would be very expensive to go to the lengths Peter Gunn is doing but some measures to give the elements a firm anchor to push against. The crossover parts are also a joke but that is with almost every hi-fi speaker out there, no matter the cost. 

 The only planar company that has done anything about this is Sound Lab with the massive U line and hot rodded backplates. Quad is worse of then Magneplanar since they lack the genius of the like of Peter Walker so they are still using the flawed manufacturing techniques that surfaced with the ESL63 and have installed electrolytic caps in the signal path. They do sound good but could be so much better._

 

Spritzer did you ever listen to apogee speakers? What do you think about them?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer did you ever listen to apogee speakers? What do you think about them?_

 

I've heard one of the basic models once and quite liked it but it doesn't really showcase what they were able to do. I did come very close to hearing one of the bigger ones once (the name escapes me) but I had to take an earlier flight home so it didn't happen. They did have some issues as well but the new speakers bearing the name should be really, really good. They are born out of the DIY world and how the speakers should have been made in the first place. It's the same deal with Quads Unlimited as they are better made then the originals.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard one of the basic models once and quite liked it but it doesn't really showcase what they were able to do. I did come very close to hearing one of the bigger ones once (the name escapes me) but I had to take an earlier flight home so it didn't happen. They did have some issues as well but the new speakers bearing the name should be really, really good. They are born out of the DIY world and how the speakers should have been made in the first place. It's the same deal with Quads Unlimited as they are better made then the originals._

 

I have a small hybrid and like them a lot. I auditioned Divas and was very very impressed. The only problem with them in my opinion is a huge dip to 1 Ohm that make amp matching very hard, but class A Threshold or big Pass amp should work just fine. The sound of small hybrids is very similar to Lambdas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, only with less bass.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...did you ever listen to apogee speakers? What do you think about them?_

 

I once owned a pair of Duetta Signatures driven by a Classe DR-3VHC, Threshold SA-1’s or a Threshold SA-4e. My beloved Martin-Logan CLSIIa was transparent, light, fast and believable. The Duetta’s were dark, distant, heavy in the bass and opaque. I never could get them to sound to my liking. Years ago I heard the Diva’s at the CES show driven by all Krell and it was one of the finest systems I’ve ever heard.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a small hybrid and like them a lot. I auditioned Divas and was very very impressed. The only problem with them in my opinion is a huge dip to 1 Ohm that make amp matching very hard, but class A Threshold or big Pass amp should work just fine. The sound of small hybrids is very similar to Lambdas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, only with less bass._

 

The 1ohm dip did cause some problems but the old Krell amps were designed to drive the Apogee's so people should have just bought those and stopped complaining... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's the same thing with the old Stax speakers as they sent most amps into meltdown. Sensitivity of 76db/1w (for the ESL-F81) and a reactive load can do that...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, can you shine some light on the "DIY silver vs. SR007 cable" comparison? 

 will be fun....._

 

hm, maybe there's some confusion. I didn't try a DIY silver cable, I thought you made one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just tried the SR-007 cable and compared it to the stock Koss cable. I think the phones are still breaking in, so I'll save my comments. I'll have 300 hours on them by the DFW meet, so perhaps we'll get some comments there.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I once owned a pair of Duetta Signatures driven by a Classe DR-3VHC, Threshold SA-1’s or a Threshold SA-4e. My beloved Martin-Logan CLSIIa was transparent, light, fast and believable. The Duetta’s were dark, distant, heavy in the bass and opaque. I never could get them to sound to my liking. Years ago I heard the Diva’s at the CES show driven by all Krell and it was one of the finest systems I’ve ever heard._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 1ohm dip did cause some problems but the old Krell amps were designed to drive the Apogee's so people should have just bought those and stopped complaining... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's the same thing with the old Stax speakers as they sent most amps into meltdown. Sensitivity of 76db/1w (for the ESL-F81) and a reactive load can do that... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Never liked Krell's sound signature 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Big Boulder or ML amps on the other hand were a great match for Apogees. If you see small hybrid Apogees give them try, they are very nice sounding speakers. I drive my Centaurus with DNA-1 and as I said before they sound very similar to SR-Lambda


----------



## Vaughn

I would like to try and mine this rich vein of Stax expertise.

 I just purchased(today) a pair of SR-404's and have started the search
 for a suitable amp.

 My sights are set on the SRM-T1, but failing that I am wondering which amp
 would be a good match for the 404's.

 I would be willing to do a seperate tube amp and use one of the Stax energiser boxes but I do prefer the simplicity of having line level inputs.

 Any suggestions?


----------



## pabbi1

What is your budget? Stated conversely, what is your wallet's threshold of pain?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hm, maybe there's some confusion. I didn't try a DIY silver cable, I thought you made one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just tried the SR-007 cable and compared it to the stock Koss cable. I think the phones are still breaking in, so I'll save my comments. I'll have 300 hours on them by the DFW meet, so perhaps we'll get some comments there._

 

In the ESP950 thread you mentioned that yuour have experimented "18 awg 6 N silver surrounded with 600v heatshrink then packed into teflon tubes and found this sounded the best to my ears".... or was it just an experiment, not a completed cable?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am still mustering up courage to order some connectors from Allied, so my silver/teflon/silicon cable is not completed either.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to try and mine this rich vein of Stax expertise.

 I just purchased(today) a pair of SR-404's and have started the search
 for a suitable amp.

 My sights are set on the SRM-T1, but failing that I am wondering which amp
 would be a good match for the 404's.

 I would be willing to do a seperate tube amp and use one of the Stax energiser boxes but I do prefer the simplicity of having line level inputs.

 Any suggestions?_

 

The SR-404s are easy to drive. You've got several choices: go with an older used Stax amp, that will probably sound fairly good, get the new model 007T2, which will sound great, and have the bonus of being able to (interim) drive the Omega 2's you will inevitably buy, or go all out and try to order a Blue Hawaii, since you will eventually need one to drive your eventual Omega 2 purchase.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the ESP950 thread you mentioned that yuour have experimented "18 awg 6 N silver surrounded with 600v heatshrink then packed into teflon tubes and found this sounded the best to my ears".... or was it just an experiment, not a completed cable?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am still mustering up courage to order some connectors from Allied, so my silver/teflon/silicon cable is not completed either.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

ah, I do all my internal wiring this way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I probably meant for internal wiring. I'm so sorry if I implied otherwise. I was thinking about doing this, but just never got around to it.... in fact, perhaps now would be a good time to go for it!


----------



## Vaughn

Quote:


 The SR-404s are easy to drive. You've got several choices: go with an older used Stax amp, that will probably sound fairly good, get the new model 007T2, which will sound great, and have the bonus of being able to (interim) drive the Omega 2's you will inevitably buy, or go all out and try to order a Blue Hawaii, since you will eventually need one to drive your eventual Omega 2 purchase. 
 

Well, I guess budget is a fairly important factor. The 007 is out of my price
 range. I am thinking no more than $600 USD. Of the the older used Stax amps
 which do you think would mate well with the 404 sound?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Never liked Krell's sound signature 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Big Boulder or ML amps on the other hand were a great match for Apogees. If you see small hybrid Apogees give them try, they are very nice sounding speakers. I drive my Centaurus with DNA-1 and as I said before they sound very similar to SR-Lambda 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've heard Faust2D's stereo systems in person, and though I might not have thought of the comparison to the SR-Lambda offhand, I can certify that he's got them sounding quite nice indeed. At first listen I preferred his dynamic rig, but after only a couple of turns back and forth, my ears came around to the Apogees. Nice spatial abilities, and of course the top end is quite fine.


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I guess budget is a fairly important factor. The 007 is out of my price
 range. I am thinking no more than $600 USD. Of the the older used Stax amps
 which do you think would mate well with the 404 sound?_

 

Well, Vaughn, if you're limited to 600, you might just get an SRD-7 Pro box and use whatever stereo amplifier you have handy. They can be had for less than 150. I don't think 600 is going to be enough to get a good used Stax amp, but maybe Spritzer or some of the others here may have an idea about that. Of course, you could get an inexpensive solid state Stax amp for much less than 600, if you want to go that route, such as the SRM-212/253 or the old 300 series, I guess. Maybe one of the even older amps could be had for that, too, but I'm not the one to ask. Spritzer will be up in a few hours and will probably have some ideas for you.
 Good luck!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, Vaughn, if you're limited to 600, you might just get an SRD-7 Pro box and use whatever stereo amplifier you have handy. They can be had for less than 150. I don't think 600 is going to be enough to get a good used Stax amp, but maybe Spritzer or some of the others here may have an idea about that. Of course, you could get an inexpensive solid state Stax amp for much less than 600, if you want to go that route, such as the SRM-212/253 or the old 300 series, I guess. Maybe one of the even older amps could be had for that, too, but I'm not the one to ask. Spritzer will be up in a few hours and will probably have some ideas for you.
 Good luck!_

 

I like my SRM-1/MK-2 with SR-303. I liked SRM-1 more then new midline Stax solid state amps (212 or 300 series) when I had a chance to compare them.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard Faust2D's stereo systems in person, and though I might not have thought of the comparison to the SR-Lambda offhand, I can certify that he's got them sounding quite nice indeed. At first listen I preferred his dynamic rig, but after only a couple of turns back and forth, my ears came around to the Apogees. Nice spatial abilities, and of course the top end is quite fine._

 






 Glad you liked them. My dynamic rig is much more expensive by the way, so Apogees are a great deal if you can find them cheap, especially for the folks that like Stax sound


----------



## ueyteuor

i need to get back to stax... everday while i listen to my rs2, i'm always thinking about the stax, and how it would perform on a certain song.... i need stax!!


----------



## spritzer

With the Pro adapters at an all time high price then the amps become a better alternative. I should be receiving some T1 amps soon that I was forced to get and I'll post them for sale as soon as I've tested and cleaned them.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i need to get back to stax... everday while i listen to my rs2, i'm always thinking about the stax, and how it would perform on a certain song.... i need stax!!_

 

Face it you are addicted.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_some T1 amps (...) that I was forced to get_

 

What's the story behind that..?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the story behind that..? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, spritzer. How many HeadFi-ers do we know who would just love to be *forced* to take one, let alone some, T1(s)...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, spritzer. How many HeadFi-ers do we know who would just love to be *forced* to take one, let alone some, T1(s)..._

 

It is quite simple really. I want some headphone and the seller will only sell me the combo so I back down and buy the lot. There is a reason I own more then 10 Stax amps... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Here is something I was working on tonight, a Stax compatible driver to test a new coating material.


----------



## Faust2D

what is that?????


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is quite simple really. I want some headphone and the seller will only sell me the combo so I back down and buy the lot. There is a reason I own more then 10 Stax amps... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The rest of us consider house extensions for expanded family, expanded entertainment system, even expanded music collection.

 Only spritzer needs to extend his house to accomodate his expanding amp collection. LOL.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what is that????? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

An electrostatic driver I made in 90 minutes from scrap. Most of time was spent of soldering the damn WPI Stax plug but it consists of bronze stators, 3um film and 0.55mm spacers so Stax Pro compatible. The glue I used for the stators wasn't strong enough so I'm putting some pressure on it in that picture. It even made some convincing bass output suspended in the air like that.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The rest of us consider house extensions for expanded family, expanded entertainment system, even expanded music collection.

 Only spritzer needs to extend his house to accomodate his expanding amp collection. LOL. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I blame the Icelandic economy for me having to sell my spare amps. 1m3 of a residential house in Reykjavik currently sells for about 7500$US in a semi decent location. The bubble is bursting though so I'll be able to buy something larger...


----------



## naamanf

Can you get skyr on your Dominoes Pizza?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you get skyr on your Dominoes Pizza?_

 

Not that I'm aware of... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and don't say skyr to me. I overdosed on it many years ago (eating it 3 times a day really is too much) and now I can't touch it.


----------



## Vaughn

Stax gentlefolk...

 After some poking around it appears my desire for a SRM-T1 may have
 been a little pie-in-the-sky. It seems they go for close to $1000 USD, unless
 I am mistaken. I am wondering if a simpler, older amp like the SRM 313 would give me enough of the Stax sound(with 404's) to help me decide whether to sell my HD650 and DV336i and upgrade to a better amp?

 Or am I much better off waiting for a SRM1 MKII to surface?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax gentlefolk...

 After some poking around it appears my desire for a SRM-T1 may have
 been a little pie-in-the-sky. It seems they go for close to $1000 USD, unless
 I am mistaken. I am wondering if a simpler, older amp like the SRM 313 would give me enough of the Stax sound(with 404's) to help me decide whether to sell my HD650 and DV336i and upgrade to a better amp?

 Or am I much better off waiting for a SRM1 MKII to surface?_

 

I think you are better off waiting for SRM1.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An electrostatic driver I made in 90 minutes from scrap. Most of time was spent of soldering the damn WPI Stax plug but it consists of bronze stators, 3um film and 0.55mm spacers so Stax Pro compatible. The glue I used for the stators wasn't strong enough so I'm putting some pressure on it in that picture. It even made some convincing bass output suspended in the air like that._

 

wow, wild. Now you need to make square housing for your cool little drivers.


----------



## Vaughn

Faust2D,

 Thanks for the advice, I've put out an APB on a SRM 1 MKII.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Faust2D,

 Thanks for the advice, I've put out an APB on a SRM 1 MKII._

 

Just for your reference I will include the chart below that I found on Head-Fi. 

 Maximum Output Voltages of various Stax energizers:
 SRD-X 210VRMS
 SRM3 250VRMS
 SRM T1/T1S 300VRMS
 SRM 006t 300VRMS
 SRM-007t 340VRMS
 SRM-310 350VRMS
 SRM 313 350VRMS
 SRM1 Mk2 Pro 370VRMS
 SRDP/SRDX Professional 380VRMS
 SRA-14S 400VRMS
 SRM-717 450VRMS

 As you can see SRM1 is near the top in terms of Output power. It's a pure class A amp and at the time was one of the top models in Stax lineup. It's sounds better than 313, but not a lot better. However you can find it much cheaper than 313 so in my book it's a better deal. Plus you get normal and pro sockets, this adds versatility. It is very hard to find 313 with normal socket.

 P.S. I recently had an opportunity to listen to some lower-end new Stax amps and like SRM-1 better.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Stax SR-5 Electrostatic Headphones - eBay (item 110213852859 end time Jan-22-08 11:54:44 PST)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax gentlefolk...

 After some poking around it appears my desire for a SRM-T1 may have
 been a little pie-in-the-sky. It seems they go for close to $1000 USD, unless
 I am mistaken. I am wondering if a simpler, older amp like the SRM 313 would give me enough of the Stax sound(with 404's) to help me decide whether to sell my HD650 and DV336i and upgrade to a better amp?

 Or am I much better off waiting for a SRM1 MKII to surface?_

 

I would say that 1k$ is pushing it for a T1 but eBay can do strange things to peoples heads. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow, wild. Now you need to make square housing for your cool little drivers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The stators aren't perfectly level so I'll throw it away. I have already designed the main parts of my own electrostatic headphones but I don't want to spend the huge amounts to prototype and tool up for them.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say that 1k$ is pushing it for a T1 but eBay can do strange things to peoples heads. 



 The stators aren't perfectly level so I'll throw it away. I have already designed the main parts of my own electrostatic headphones but I don't want to spend the huge amounts to prototype and tool up for them._

 


 Thanks for the help! Someone is coming over tonight to buy the K1000's. I bought an Air Tight PC-1 cartridge yesterday, probably the finest I have ever heard. I have made arrangments to sell the Titan to fund the new SR-007 2 MK2 and SRM-007t2 MK2 purchase. They should reach me by the time we get underway. I also bought some bad-ass Siltech firewire and digital RCA cables to feed the Esoteric DV 60 and Escient to the D-03. I have high hopes for the SRM-007t2 MK2 with the 4070's.

 Any news from Justin?

 Cheers,

 Bob 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What the hell happened to the Orphsmile and KRMathis's power spew?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say that 1k$ is pushing it for a T1 but eBay can do strange things to peoples heads._

 

Three have sold on ebay.de in the last week. If memory serves, they went for the equivalent of about $650, $1100, and $2000 (!) It's to the point where the FS forum, Audiogon, are a much better bet to get a decent price. Or, of course, the classic approach of patience over throwing money at it. It starts to make a Blue Hawaii seem like a bargain.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the help! Someone is coming over tonight to buy the K1000's. I bought an Air Tight PC-1 cartridge yesterday, probably the finest I have ever heard._

 

wow, very nice. I've heard the Air Tight cartridges and I was very impressed. It's the only cartridge that seems to have a strange synergy with the Graham Phantom, which otherwise I haven't been impressed with. Just curious, have you heard a ZYX UNIverse, or the new ZYX Atmos before?


----------



## Vaughn

Are there any recommendations for a transformer to step down voltage 
 to a 100v SRM-313 from standard 110-120V in the U.S.?


----------



## jcn3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any recommendations for a transformer to step down voltage 
 to a 100v SRM-313 from standard 110-120V in the U.S.?_

 

the stax amps don't draw a lot, so you don't need a heavy duty transformer. here is a place that gives you plenty of options (Power Converter - Step Up/Down Japan Transformers).

 as others have said, patience is the key in finding an amp. i got my 007t off of audiogon for a good price. while $600 is not going to cut it, you can get a 007t for under $900 -- a 006t will go for less. srm-1 pros should be in the $400 dollar range. i think the prices for t1s have become absurd.

 hang in there -- the stax experience is worth the wait.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Three have sold on ebay.de in the last week. If memory serves, they went for the equivalent of about $650, $1100, and $2000 (!) It's to the point where the FS forum, Audiogon, are a much better bet to get a decent price. Or, of course, the classic approach of patience over throwing money at it. It starts to make a Blue Hawaii seem like a bargain._

 


 $2K! OMG. I just wouldn't feel comfortable selling at that price - too much pity for the bidder.

 When my T1 spent a couple of months awaiting me finding time to do spritzer's mods to it I decided it shouldn't be sitting around but instead be used by a fellow HeadFi-er - so I sold it to a fellow Australian for exactly what I bought it for. I think that's what you do in a community like ours.

 Of course in the back of my mind I figured I could one day come back, get another, and do the spritzer mods then. But $2K! Definitely better to BH if I had that sort of money. If only.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$2K! OMG. I just wouldn't feel comfortable selling at that price - too much pity for the bidder._

 

I think that one was clearly a fluke considering the one that went for a third the price a few days earlier. I get the impression $800-900 is the going rate, with wide variations considering it's a small number of units being traded to a tiny audience. I know of at least one generous head-fier who might give a better deal, though, and with patience I'm sure one could get a T1 for $700 or so.


----------



## Vaughn

I have got SR-404's and a SRM-313 on the way! 

 I know the 313 is not the last word in amps but I think it will help
 me determine whether I wish to travel further down the Stax road.
 If so I will sell the 313, my HD650's and DV 336i to fund an upgrade to
 a better amp.

 Is it a bad idea to run a 100v Stax unit originally intended for the Japanese
 market off of 110v here in the U.S.?

 Now comes the torturous waiting for packages!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just for your reference I will include the chart below that I found on Head-Fi. 

 Maximum Output Voltages of various Stax energizers:
 SRD-X 210VRMS
 SRM3 250VRMS
 SRM T1/T1S 300VRMS
 SRM 006t 300VRMS
 SRM-007t 340VRMS
 SRM-310 350VRMS
 SRM 313 350VRMS
 SRM1 Mk2 Pro 370VRMS
 SRDP/SRDX Professional 380VRMS
 SRA-14S 400VRMS
 SRM-717 450VRMS

 As you can see SRM1 is near the top in terms of Output power. It's a pure class A amp and at the time was one of the top models in Stax lineup. It's sounds better than 313, but not a lot better. However you can find it much cheaper than 313 so in my book it's a better deal. Plus you get normal and pro sockets, this adds versatility. It is very hard to find 313 with normal socket.

 P.S. I recently had an opportunity to listen to some lower-end new Stax amps and like SRM-1 better._

 



 This list is not entirely accurate. I have just looked at the SRM3 manual and it states 300 VRMS output voltage, not 250.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have got SR-404's and a SRM-313 on the way! 

 I know the 313 is not the last word in amps but I think it will help
 me determine whether I wish to travel further down the Stax road.
 If so I will sell the 313, my HD650's and DV 336i to fund an upgrade to
 a better amp.

 Is it a bad idea to run a 100v Stax unit originally intended for the Japanese
 market off of 110v here in the U.S.?

 Now comes the torturous waiting for packages!_

 

Never use equipment intended for 100v on a 117v system. If the transformer is meant to step up to 300v then you would be feeding the amp nearly 360v. Not recommended.


----------



## Vaughn

thanks Spritzer,

 That is what I thought and it concerns me because I've just bought a 313 from
 a fellow Headfi'er who was apparently running the unit without a voltage
 adapter. He said he didn't listen to it much because he didn't like the highs, possibly because the amp was receiving too much voltage.

 I suppose I'll have to wait and see if it works when it arrives.


----------



## luvdunhill

so, the Koss are loud again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I switch to the SR-007 I need about 15-20% more volume. Early impressions on the recable are very very good. Seems to have really cleared up the top end for sure and evened out some of the boominess in the bass. I cannot wait for Audiocats to give the 620v a go


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Thanks for the advice, I've put out an APB on a SRM 1 MKII. 
 

I have one for sale now in the sales section


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My SR-001 arrived yesterday. I hooked it up to my Macbook with my Headstage USB DAC cable. I have power coming from the Radioshack 4.5v wallwart.

 The sound is better than expected, and everything I expected. I was told the mids were forward, or Grado'ish, but I was very surprised the first time I listened to Diana Krall. Instead of sounding like she was crooning into my ear, it sounded like she'd climbed inside my head 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The SRS iWOW plug-in for iTunes got Diana out of my head and onto the seat next to me. At the same time it EQ's the dome shaped frequency curve to be more flat or bowl shaped, depending on how I set it. I don't use my Macbook all the time, sometimes I use a CD player or iPod, and the EQ is not the best with those.

 Rright out of the box it does best with electronic new age and techno, and had a lot more bass than I expected, which seemed to goe really low. Using test tones, I can hear a 31.5Hz tone well, but it is rolled off at 25Hz. I can hear the 12.5Khz tone well, but it is rolled off a fair bit at 16Khz. To be fair, my chronic tinnitus is at 12.5Khz and my own hearing rolls off around 16Khz, but my Proline 2500 produce 16Khz better than these. I think the frequency extension is good enough.

 Here is my only issue other than a dome shaped frequency curve. What is the deal with the mini-version of the baby-STAX fart? 

 If I open my mouth or turn my head, the change in air pressure in my ear canal makes them sound all static'y. I've never read anywhere about that with SR-001. Sometimes with my SR-Lambda, if I move the earpiece or push on it, it will sound like air is fluttering or coming in around the driver or earpads (not sure which), but it doesn't happen often and it doesn't make a sound like static discharge during the pressure equalization. With the SR-001 it happens a lot - if I rest my jaw on my hand, or open my mouth, or stretch my neck the change in my ear canal air pressure makes them make stupid noises. It's not the cords or a short - it's definitely only when I make the air pressure in my ear change. If I purposefully put them on to not seal, I lose all bass below 60Hz.

 Obviously I get a good seal, and maybe I need a way to not get such a good seal? I don't have to do the audiocats "baby stax face" to get bass or a seal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, I need some tips (no pun intended) on how to best wear the SR-001, because it happens repeatedly and makes it hard to enjoy them. They feel fine on my head and in my ears, it's just the noise bugging me. FYI, I've been burning it in for 24 hours, and it's going through one of those "I'm gonna sound worse before I sound better stages".

 Cheers for now...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, the Koss are loud again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I switch to the SR-007 I need about 15-20% more volume. Early impressions on the recable are very very good. Seems to have really cleared up the top end for sure and evened out some of the boominess in the bass. I cannot wait for Audiocats to give the 620v a go 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There is a simple reason for that... the SR-007 is a b*tch to drive. The cool bit is that they did it on purpose.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 the SR-001 it happens a lot - if I rest my jaw on my hand, or open my mouth, or stretch my neck the change in my ear canal air pressure makes them make stupid noises. It's not the cords or a short - it's definitely only when I make the air pressure in my ear change. If I purposefully put them on to not seal, I lose all bass below 60Hz. 
 

Don't chew gum 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 during listening
 Strange with the big Stax headphones I get the "fart" frequently
 With the Sr-001 I can't recall it once...
 You defenitly need them to be air tight, I prefer to wear them with the "brace" attached and with the tips (cord) pointing to my chin.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the deal with the mini-version of the baby-STAX fart? 

 If I open my mouth or turn my head, the change in air pressure in my ear canal makes them sound all static'y. I've never read anywhere about that with SR-001. Sometimes with my SR-Lambda, if I move the earpiece or push on it, it will sound like air is fluttering or coming in around the driver or earpads (not sure which), but it doesn't happen often and it doesn't make a sound like static discharge during the pressure equalization. With the SR-001 it happens a lot - if I rest my jaw on my hand, or open my mouth, or stretch my neck the change in my ear canal air pressure makes them make stupid noises. It's not the cords or a short - it's definitely only when I make the air pressure in my ear change. If I purposefully put them on to not seal, I lose all bass below 60Hz.

 Obviously I get a good seal, and maybe I need a way to not get such a good seal? I don't have to do the audiocats "baby stax face" to get bass or a seal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, I need some tips (no pun intended) on how to best wear the SR-001, because it happens repeatedly and makes it hard to enjoy them. They feel fine on my head and in my ears, it's just the noise bugging me.
 Cheers for now..._

 

It is a reality and the only tips I can suggest are:
 * different tips (pun intended - but there are different size tips that come with it - but I still get this issue with the ones that best fit me (Note: you can try different size tips on each of your ears in case one ear tip is somewhat different in size/shape). You could also try the suggestion of modding other IEM tips as was discussed briefly in the mod thread - I am yet to try this)
 * jiggling them around a bit, pushing into the ear a little, sometimes gives me a more secure seal, that handles general movements like head turning, etc but not pressure-challenging ones like a yawn (when I'm sleepy! in no ways related to what I'm listening to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) or eating something, etc.

 Most of my listening with these is normally bedside so I don't move/break seal very often - it's just initially achieving it that sometimes has me experiencing the squeeky not-quite-sealed sound irritation.

 What I found fascinating is that it's generally one ear (right) more than the other and that is in keeping with my Livewires fit problems even though they are going well into the ear as opposed to the Baby Stax just at the edge.

 I'm assuming my right ear entry is just that bit smaller than my left and that's what provides a challenge for the Stax tips (and initially for the Livewires). I don't know whether this next point comes from the ears adjusting to regular Livewires use but my right ear is now settled with my Livewires and in the last week for the very first time the Baby Stax irritation occured (on initially settling them) to the left ear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Probably just coincidence.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow, very nice. I've heard the Air Tight cartridges and I was very impressed. It's the only cartridge that seems to have a strange synergy with the Graham Phantom, which otherwise I haven't been impressed with. Just curious, have you heard a ZYX UNIverse, or the new ZYX Atmos before?_

 


 I heard the Universe some time ago. This time around I listened to a Transfiguration Orpheus and the Air Tight via Air Tight electronics and horn speakers that sounded like planars or electrostats with their clarity. I bought this from the same dealer who sold the Universe, and he says he has much more positive feedback from the Air Tight. I think the Universe has a more eclectic following willing to accept its weakenesses as well as its great strengths. The Air Tight is replacing a Lyra Titan in my system, although I am not certain I am ready to let it go..........


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Universe has a more eclectic following willing to accept its weakenesses as well as its great strengths._

 

that's a true statement 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really want to listen to the Atmos, though it's being marketed more towards Rock... Oh well, I plan on upgrading back to where I was in the ZYX line-up at some point, but it's hard to fault their entry level cartridge at all for the price


----------



## shokunin

I like my UNIverse, although with any cartridge it's really about total synergy with table, arm and phono, rather than the absolute performance of the cartridge itself. 

 I have heard good things about the Air Tight from others, but have not heard it myself. Too bad Cartridge rolling is far more difficult and expensive than tube rolling. 

 What improvements do you hear over the Titan (yet another great cartridge).


----------



## WittyzTH

Hi folks

 I have STAX on the way and I need some suggestion about ICs. 

 I've read STAX system is very sensitive for ICs. Can you suggest some ICs working the best with them below $200? 

 -------

 or such a cheapo from Ratshack would be ok.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WittyzTH* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi folks

 I have STAX on the way and I need some suggestion about ICs. 

 I've read STAX system is very sensitive for ICs. Can you suggest some ICs working the best with them below $200? 

 -------

 or such a cheapo from Ratshack would be ok. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 IMHO I've never found any Stax to be more or less sensitive to ICs than other systems.

 I'd suggest you try a few ICs to find the best synergy with whichever combination of Stax equipment you are getting (you don't indicate what model(s) you are acquiring).

 Basically you need to find what combination of equipment works overall best for you and your ears.

 Personally I like a good silver IC such as Moon Audio or Homegrown with my tube amps (Woo and McAllister) and I like an Apuresound (from [AK]Zip) with my SRD-XPro. I also tend to use well burned in silver mini-2-minis ATM with my Stax Portable but that may change when I modify it based on the final recommendations from the Mod thread. If silver mini-2-minis are too much I find the Cardas HPi to be not that far behind (in my preferences).


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WittyzTH* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have STAX on the way and I need some suggestion about ICs. 
_

 

dude, what you got? Will you take it to the up coming Seattle meet?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

barqy is a member of these forums who builds cables. He made a pair of excellent silver silk-insulated interconnects for my ipods (lod-mini) and mp3 player (mini-mini). 

 He also made a great copper silver 1/8" mini to two RCA to run from my DAC to my amp. (I run optical from the Macbook, CD player or iRiver mp3 player to the DAC.)

 barqy's prices are reasonable, and you can PM about what you need and get a price quote.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I got my SR-Lambda Signatures in. They sound fantastic. I dare say as good or better than my HP-1000 driven by my tube amp or SS amp.

 Comparing them to my low bias SR-Lambdas, there is just a tiny bit more "meat on the bones" with the Signatures - i.e. slightly more full or punchy, giving the instruments more weight, especially drums and string bass. 

 However, the difference is not as great as you might think. The SR-Lambdas do an incredibly good job, and are only a tiny bit short of reaching as high as the Lambda Signatures.

 I think a lot of the credit goes to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, because the Lambdas moved up an order of magnitude in quality when I switched to it from the SRD-X. With the SRD-X I had posted that the SR-Lambdas kept up with my HD600's, and I've said that with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that the Lambdas surpassed the HD600.

 At this point I am very happy with them both.


----------



## WittyzTH

@webbie64: thx for your help. I'm not sure where I have read about it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @HeadphoneAddict: thanks for your suggestion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_dude, what you got? Will you take it to the up coming Seattle meet?_

 

It's the SRS-3000. just wanting to start with low budget one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and I may bring it to the meet if Young allow me to bring more than one stuff. (He'll give me a ride.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WittyzTH* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@webbie64: thx for your help. I'm not sure where I have read about it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @HeadphoneAddict: thanks for your suggestion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 It's the SRS-3000. just wanting to start with low budget one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and I may bring it to the meet if Young allow me to bring more than one stuff. (He'll give me a ride.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Cool! I'd better hurry up and order some WPT plugs and make me 001/003 adaptors


----------



## webbie64

Does this equipment with this asking price look familiar to anyone? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





STAX LAMBDA Signature casque electrostatique à tubes - eBay Amplificateurs Hi-Fi, Amplificateurs, Hi-Fi Audio, TV Son Home-Cinema. (end time 04-Feb-08 09:45:37 AEDST)

 I seem to recall a recent discussion stating something like this went for (incredibly) $US2000. Seems like someone's decided to try and get the same value in Euros.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shokunin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like my UNIverse, although with any cartridge it's really about total synergy with table, arm and phono, rather than the absolute performance of the cartridge itself. 

 I have heard good things about the Air Tight from others, but have not heard it myself. Too bad Cartridge rolling is far more difficult and expensive than tube rolling. 

 What improvements do you hear over the Titan (yet another great cartridge)._

 

Analogue is still the king of tweakery and fun. By the way, nice system you have listed.

 I think the Air Tight (while needing considerable break in time yet) is more musical and presents a better soundstage than the Titan, but only time will really tell........


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this equipment with this asking price look familiar to anyone? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




STAX LAMBDA Signature casque electrostatique à tubes - eBay Amplificateurs Hi-Fi, Amplificateurs, Hi-Fi Audio, TV Son Home-Cinema. (end time 04-Feb-08 09:45:37 AEDST)

 I seem to recall a recent discussion stating something like this went for (incredibly) $US2000. Seems like someone's decided to try and get the same value in Euros. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Crazy. I'd rather spend that on a HE60 or SR-007.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Crazy. I'd rather spend that on a HE60 or SR-007._

 

Oh, I'm sure we don't want to know what that seller would ask for either of those phones


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this equipment with this asking price look familiar to anyone? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




STAX LAMBDA Signature casque electrostatique à tubes - eBay Amplificateurs Hi-Fi, Amplificateurs, Hi-Fi Audio, TV Son Home-Cinema. (end time 04-Feb-08 09:45:37 AEDST)

 I seem to recall a recent discussion stating something like this went for (incredibly) $US2000. Seems like someone's decided to try and get the same value in Euros. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmmm I think I may need to rethink my price structure... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 While both items are good they aren't _that_ good.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Analogue is still the king of tweakery and fun. By the way, nice system you have listed.

 I think the Air Tight (while needing considerable break in time yet) is more musical and presents a better soundstage than the Titan, but only time will really tell........_

 

All this TT talk isn't helping me...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this equipment with this asking price look familiar to anyone? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




STAX LAMBDA Signature casque electrostatique à tubes - eBay Amplificateurs Hi-Fi, Amplificateurs, Hi-Fi Audio, TV Son Home-Cinema. (end time 04-Feb-08 09:45:37 AEDST)

 I seem to recall a recent discussion stating something like this went for (incredibly) $US2000. Seems like someone's decided to try and get the same value in Euros. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Simply insane!
 I am sure the SR-Lambda Signature and SRM-T1 system is great sounding. But its in no way worth €1,950.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* 
_I got my SR-Lambda Signatures in. They sound fantastic. ... I think a lot of the credit goes to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.. At this point I am very happy with them both._

 

As someone who owns the same combo, very glad to hear you like your Siggies. I believe this was Stax's first try at a headphone with no mechanical damping, letting the diaphragm fly free, so to speak. The only restraint is the trapped pocket of air inside the earpad.


 .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As someone who owns the same combo, very glad to hear you like your Siggies. I believe this was Stax's first try at a headphone with no mechanical damping, letting the diaphragm fly free, so to speak. The only restraint is the trapped pocket of air around the earpad._

 

Absolutely correct. It is still one of the best headphones they've ever made but far from perfect. Needs a lot of power to really shine. 

 It could also be said that the Sigma was without damping in the normal sense as the drivers are directly coupled to the air. There is a whole lot of damping material inside the housings but it is just there to dissipate any and all echo. There is nothing to reduce the front or backwave.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this TT talk isn't helping me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well then Birger I'll spare you the details on my newest toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It's not in my hands yet but will be soon !


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


 Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict
 I got my SR-Lambda Signatures in. They sound fantastic. ... I think a lot of the credit goes to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.. At this point I am very happy with them both. 
 

 Quote:


 Originally Posted by wualta 
 As someone who owns the same combo, very glad to hear you like your Siggies. I believe this was Stax's first try at a headphone with no mechanical damping, letting the diaphragm fly free, so to speak. The only restraint is the trapped pocket of air around the earpad. 
 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Absolutely correct. It is still one of the best headphones they've ever made but far from perfect. Needs a lot of power to really shine. 

 It could also be said that the Sigma was without damping in the normal sense as the drivers are directly coupled to the air. There is a whole lot of damping material inside the housings but it is just there to dissipate any and all echo. There is nothing to reduce the front or backwave._

 

I was talking about Lambda Signature, which got turned into "Siggies" which got turned into Sigmas. I don't know which ones wualta was talking about. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can I get a re-issued post letting me know what you think about the Signatures?


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well then Birger I'll spare you the details on my newest toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It's not in my hands yet but will be soon !



_

 

That looks great! Details, details!


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjhatfield* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That looks great! Details, details! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

O.K. Here goes....It's a Technics SP-25 in a giant Jean Nantais (the Lenco guy) built Plinth. The plinth is made of alternating layers of Russian birch ply and MDF and is directly coupled. Each layer is cut with diminishing loss of material. Known as constrained layer damping. CLD for short.
 The SP-25 is the "baby brother" of the SP-10. BUT the SP-25 may infact be the better table, do to the ease of it being able to be direct coupled while the SP-10 cannot be. (at least without serious modification). It is supposed to be the most musical of the SP bunch as well do to the 10's possibly being over damped.
 The armboard is removable and is made out of maple.The plinth is finshed with a Jatoba veneer, better known as Brazilian cherry. It is sporting a Rega RB-250 tonearm.
 Here's a pic of the armboard removed showing the internal constuction....


----------



## spritzer

First impressions on the SR-Alpha Pro Excellent are that they are basically a slightly better Gamma Pro. I need to spend some time with them to be sure but I think I've never seen such a beat up set of headphones. I don't really think that the former owner knew just how rare these are... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Running three SRM-T1's in a row is pretty cool... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I weren't so damn tired I'd snap a picture. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well then Birger I'll spare you the details on my newest toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It's not in my hands yet but will be soon !
http://www.comnet.ca/~jwdt/Ebay/SP251.jpg_

 

Damn, damn, damn!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't need this!! I have to put all thoughts about vinyl out of my head until after I get my new CDP and decide whether or not I have to upgrade to the NWO 3.0GO for a cool 20k+ extra... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was talking about Lambda Signature, which got turned into "Siggies" which got turned into Sigmas. I don't know which ones wualta was talking about. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can I get a re-issued post letting me know what you think about the Signatures? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Siggies are the Signatures.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. Running three SRM-T1's in a row is pretty cool... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I weren't so damn tired I'd snap a picture. _

 

cough, cough


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I am frankly quite surprised how good these SR-5 sound through my SR1 Mk2 Pro. Even these can give and HD600 a run for it's money. Wow.


----------



## wualta

Welcome to 1975!

 And yes, I was talking about the 1987 Lambda Signature.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well then Birger I'll spare you the details on my newest toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 It's not in my hands yet but will be soon !



_

 

Nice "homemade" turntable! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First impressions on the SR-Alpha Pro Excellent are that they are basically a slightly better Gamma Pro. I need to spend some time with them to be sure but I think I've never seen such a beat up set of headphones. I don't really think that the former owner knew just how rare these are... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, thats quite annoying. That some people just toss their goods around, and not caring how it beat it up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_cough, cough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You know where to look later today... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, thats quite annoying. That some people just toss their goods around, and not caring how it beat it up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's was terrible. They smelled of smoke, were covered in dirt and grime and both arcs that hold the earpieces in place had cracks in them. An hour later they were much more presentable...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did not expect to see an empty card box to come up for sale on eBay.
 But guess they sell "anything" in there..._

 

The STAX SRM-1/MK-2 EMPTY box  currently sits at $US21 whilst the NEW STAX Extension cable is 50c cheaper, both finishing within 3 hours of each other. Which will go for the higher price...


----------



## pipoplus

spritzer: great price on those SRM-T1 's in the sale section . You are selling them 20-30% under the average Ebay price (I am monitoring all Stax prices the last 3 months now). 

 Question:
 What will be a good price to pay for an Aperio Alpha PRO and are there any collectors here who want/need 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 one.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The STAX SRM-1/MK-2 EMPTY box  currently sits at $US21 whilst the NEW STAX Extension cable is 50c cheaper, both finishing within 3 hours of each other. Which will go for the higher price...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Hopefully the extension cable. But who knows for sure...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer: great price on those SRM-T1 's in the sale section . You are selling them 20-30% under the average Ebay price (I am monitoring all Stax prices the last 3 months now)._

 

Yes, $650 and $800 seems like very fair prices for these amplifiers. At least compared to some of those nasty eBay auctions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer: great price on those SRM-T1 's in the sale section . You are selling them 20-30% under the average Ebay price (I am monitoring all Stax prices the last 3 months now)._

 

I'm selling them at cost to me after all the shipping and customs stuff. Since my collection is almost complete I'm running out of things to buy so why not use my connections to buy and sell Stax to the community. I still get the thrill of the hunt and to play with the gear. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question:
 What will be a good price to pay for an Aperio Alpha PRO and are there any collectors here who want/need 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 one._

 

The Alpha is not an Aperio. The Alpha line is the same as the Gamma line in the west while although there was no normal bias Alpha. The Alpha Pro Excellent was the TOTL model with the redesigned earpads and PC-OCC cable. The Gamma Pro's sold in Germany had the earpads but not the cable. 
 The Aperios' aren't worth much since they sound really, really bad!


----------



## skellington

Sorry for bothering you.
 I was going to get buy a Lambda (non pro) with a srd-6 SB energiser to power it.
 But I then I read this off the (now defunct) Simply Stax website:
 "Some STAX Electret Energisers (e.g. SRD-7, SRD-7 Pro, SRD-6) have PRO-bias outlets. Using modern PRO-bias earspeakers with electret energisers A frequent source of confusion regards whether you can drive modern PRO-bias Earspeakers from a STAX Electret Energiser. Well no, not really. They work initially but after some hours the Earspeaker diaphragms become damaged. This is due to the way that the bias voltage is created inside the electret energiser as compared to the mains-driven ones. The consequence is that the ratio of bias voltage to DC voltage is inappropriate which in turn creates degradation to the membranes sooner or later. You’ve been warned!"
 The way the article is worded is slightly confusing (full link here:Used, but not abused » Blog Archive » STAX: Unravelling the mysteries of Electret-type and SB-type STAX energisers)
 as to whether the SRD-6 SB is suitable to use with the Lambda (non pro). Is it only the pro version that will be damaged?
 Thanks for any help, I tried to find the answer to this in the archives, but there are so many posts...


----------



## krmathis

skellington. I'll try to explain.

 First off the different energizers.
 * Pro bias (580v): SRD-7 Pro, SRD-7mk2 and SRD-7mk2 SB.
 * Normal bias (230v): SRD-7, SRD-7 SB, SRD-6, SRD-6SB, SRD-5 (and more).
 * Electret (no bias): SRD-4.

 Pro bias headphones are backwards compatible with the Normal bias energizers. While Normal bias headphones are not compatible with Pro bias energizers. Hence you can run an SR-Lambda Pro an all energizers but the SRD-4. While an SR-Lambda can not run on the SRD-7 Pro. The SRD-7mk2 is both Pro and Normal bias.
 Electret and electrostatic headphones/energizers don't match afaik.

 To summarize. The SR-Lambda and the SRD-6 SB work fine together.
 So you should be perfectly fine!


----------



## spritzer

That article show utter lack of all understanding and knowledge of how electrostatics work and they should delete it. A bias supply is a bias supply, no matter what the chassis looks like. You could damage the diaphragm in the old days by using to much volume i.e. putting too much voltage at the input of the transformers inside the SRD units so they would cause the phones to arc but this simply isn't a problem now.


----------



## skellington

Thanks alot for replying guys. Hopefully should be listening to them soon then


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skellington* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks alot for replying guys. Hopefully should be listening to them soon then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You're welcome!
 ..and please keep us posted when it arrives (with pictures), and some expressions on the sound. If you like it or not...


----------



## skellington

Okay, will do


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're welcome!
 ..and please keep us posted when it arrives (with pictures), and some expressions on the sound. If you like it or not... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I have had way too many 45 year old single malts tonight here in Singapore. I love all you guys, especialy NeilVG, KRMathis, Afrikane, Luvindill, and my main main Spritzer. Keep up the good fight.

 Deal with the platonic love, and for the love of God, all fellow analogue junkies, buy the Air Tight PC-1, comptetely on failth!

 Put all that man love (sans man-gravy) in your pipes and smoke it.
 Bob 
_



_


----------



## krmathis

Bob, I'll join you on your single malt journey.
 Mine is not quite this old, but from the same Macallan distillery.






 Cheers!


----------



## Vaughn

I have a question regarding AC voltage on my SRM-313 for anyone 
 who may know the answer.

 On the interior of the amp is a small circuit board where the incoming AC is fused. This circuit board appears to have several fuse-like jumpers which select the voltage going to the transformer. Right now I believe it is set to
 100v. My question is, does anyone know the jumper configuration for 117V operation.

 Should I post pics to clarify or does anyone have experience in this matter?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had way too many 45 year old single malts tonight here in Singapore. I love all you guys, especialy NeilVG, KRMathis, Afrikane, Luvindill, and my main main Spritzer. Keep up the good fight.

 Deal with the platonic love, and for the love of God, all fellow analogue junkies, buy the Air Tight PC-1, comptetely on failth!

 Put all that man love (sans man-gravy) in your pipes and smoke iit.
 Bob 





_

 

Drunk posting... I like it!!!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bob, I'll join you on your single malt journey.
 Mine is not quite this old, but from the same Macallan distillery.






 Cheers! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Man, oh man, am I hungover! 
_



_


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Drunk posting... I like it!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As Duggah would say - *Indeed.*

 Boy, do I fee like sh&t this morning. 
_



_

 The new SR-007tMK2 and Omega 2 MK2's have been ordered, and should be on the way.

 I listened to these fabulous horn speakers again yesterday, the Avantgarde Acoustics top of the lines driven by Air Tight electronics, Reimyo digital, and a Brinkmann table with a Transfiguration Orpheus. You must hear this! I also heard both MBL and Avalon, and was unimpressed with both.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyhoo, off to take some pills and sleep another 12 hours.


----------



## naamanf

The Avantgardes are on my short list of favorite speakers. If you have not head them I also suggest you search out some Acappelas. Another great horn with a plasma tweeter.


----------



## pabbi1

Paging Blue Hawaii mafia - 

How I killed (part of) my BH

 Any thoughts about recovery? Yes she is in capable hands - just shortening the path... if possible.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Avantgardes are on my short list of favorite speakers. If you have not head them I also suggest you search out some Acappelas. Another great horn with a plasma tweeter._

 

I will seek them out. Thanks to the tip. Watch your ass over there in Saddam-Land and come home safe. (I work in the Persian Gulf myself a good part of the year.)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I listened to these fabulous horn speakers again yesterday, the Avantgarde Acoustics top of the lines driven by Air Tight electronics, Reimyo digital, and a Brinkmann table with a Transfiguration Orpheus. You must hear this! I also heard both MBL and Avalon, and was unimpressed with both.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't like the MBL stuff either and the one Avantgarde I've heard (one of the smaller models) sound quite nice. 

 You haven't seen any King Sound electrostatics there? I have this silly notion of buying their King model and modding it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Paging Blue Hawaii mafia - 

How I killed (part of) my BH

 Any thoughts about recovery? Yes she is in capable hands - just shortening the path... if possible._

 

So the tubes went untested into the amp? No worries... I've done it as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There could have been a short inside either tube which caused a rush of current so one part burned up to safe the rest. Check the LED's and if any part has been discolored. 

 I use some old tube checker that measures for shorts and the like but I've never cared to spend enough to get a 539C or whatever the tester is called. I really should though one of of these days.


----------



## milkpowder

Anyone wanna sell me a Lambda Pro/Signature for $260-280 + shipping? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 EDIT: OR even have one for sale!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone wanna sell me a Lambda Pro/Signature for $260-280 + shipping? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 EDIT: OR even have one for sale!_

 

mapstec has one for sale with new earpads.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 So the tubes went untested into the amp? No worries... I've done it as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There could have been a short inside either tube which caused a rush of current so one part burned up to safe the rest. Check the LED's and if any part has been discolored. 

 I use some old tube checker that measures for shorts and the like but I've never cared to spend enough to get a 539C or whatever the tester is called. I really should though one of of these days._

 


 Yeah, but never again... 

 The leds are indeed not lit, but not burned out, the fuse did blow, and I checked all the resistors on that side - no current is getting to the 2sa1968 at all... so, we are somewhere in the middle of the board... let's hope it was only one (or two) part(s) that saved all the rest. This REALLY makes the KGSS sound all the better... 

 Oh, and those Joshua Tree attenuators are for real... outta be requied on all uber amps.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone wanna sell me a Lambda Pro/Signature for $260-280 + shipping? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 EDIT: OR even have one for sale!_

 

SR-Lambda Pro for $280 (plus shipping) in the FS forum.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, but never again... 

 The leds are indeed not lit, but not burned out, the fuse did blow, and I checked all the resistors on that side - no current is getting to the 2sa1968 at all... so, we are somewhere in the middle of the board... let's hope it was only one (or two) part(s) that saved all the rest. This REALLY makes the KGSS sound all the better... 

 Oh, and those Joshua Tree attenuators are for real... outta be requied on all uber amps._

 

How about the 2SC3675? It could have buckled under the stress. The KGSS does seem better but mine went up with a bang once. Burn marks on the PCB and pieces of resistors everywhere. My advice would be to not solder while drinking... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No stepped attenuators for me... ever. If I will stay with APL players then I won't need to worry about attenuators but a ALPS RK50 would do in a pinch.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Lambda Pro for $280 (plus shipping) in the FS forum._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_mapstec has one for sale with new earpads._

 

Thanks. Just bought it. My wallet hurts like heck and there's now a huge hole in my bank account. Student life just doesn't go hand in hand with this expensive, expensive hobby.

 I told myself I'd stop spending monnies on headphones after the HE60 but I can't! The Lambda sound is something I don't think I can live without, at least not until I can afford a SR-007. Nice food or nice headphones? I chose the latter


----------



## webbie64

A 'Box For Sale' update.

 Still hours to go but at the moment the STAX SRM-1/MK-2 EMPTY box ($US56) leads an STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 amp it might be used for ($US51.50 - but this has a week to go, admittedly) and the STAX Extension cable ($US26)!

 Goes to show that on EBay you should consider selling your box seperate to your amp - if this seller gets a good price on the amp, they'll end up with even more just for selling the box seperately.


----------



## milkpowder

LMAO... I've been following the box fiasco closely. 'Suppose anything with "Stax" on it will sell on eBay.

 What does "PP" on the SRM-1 mean? (I'm guessing two Pro Bias vs one Pro and one normal). The seller obvious knows his stuff, seeing that he has pointed out the significance of the serial number. Methinks he has been reading the Stax threads here


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Just bought it. My wallet hurts like heck and there's now a huge hole in my bank account. Student life just doesn't go hand in hand with this expensive, expensive hobby.

 I told myself I'd stop spending monnies on headphones after the HE60 but I can't! The Lambda sound is something I don't think I can live without, at least not until I can afford a SR-007. Nice food or nice headphones? I chose the latter
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The SR-007 isn't that expensive now... only 80-100k Yen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LMAO... I've been following the box fiasco closely. 'Suppose anything with "Stax" on it will sell on eBay.

 What does "PP" on the SRM-1 mean? (I'm guessing two Pro Bias vs one Pro and one normal). The seller obvious knows his stuff, seeing that he has pointed out the significance of the serial number. Methinks he has been reading the Stax threads here
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

P-P stands for Pro-Pro. I fairly sure that the seller is somebody I've been helping with some Stax stuff for a few months so the info could be from me.


----------



## edstrelow

I think we are getting a "museum" effect with old Stax products. Whereas for many years you could get into stats cheaply by picking up these old units, now they are being sought after by collectors who particularly want the older and more unusual items as opposed to merely getting good sound at a good price.

 I saw Ferrsteins old Sigma go for nearly $400.00 and a Sigma pro for about $1,300.00. These prices may not represent a good buy, they are not out of line for unique items of which there are not many left and getting fewer by the day.


----------



## ymv

Hi guys,

 I just wanted to ask some advice from you guys if you can help. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am having a little trouble with my new stax system. I have been listening to this set-up for about a month now; SR-007 (omega II) -> KGSS -> high quality cd player. To be honest though I am a bit disappointed with it. Previous to this system I was using a discman and Sennheiser HD555 headphones, so I made a big leap (thanks head-fi), I feel that there is an improvement with this rig in that instruments have more texture, there is more detail, the bass is better. But just not as great as I expected, the bass is a little boomy, and the whole presentation just doesn't seem as awesome as I thought it would be. I first auditioned a stax headphone about a year ago at a shop, it must have been the classic or signature system. I thought it sounded awesome. I have no idea how this compares to my current rig though, as it was so long ago. Maybe I was just expecting too much! Though could there be something wrong here? Obviously it is all working but maybe something isn't quite right? Is that possible? Or could there be a lack of synergy with my components or something?

 Any help or comments would be much appreciated.


----------



## milkpowder

SR-007 boomy? You need to get a pair of HE60, seriously 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The HE60 sound is closer to the HD555 than the SR-007. It's much crisper-sounding. I am surprised you didn't find the O2 breathtakingly good though... What sort of music do you listen to?


----------



## derekbmn

I say give it some time.... the 007s are simply not a smack you in the face type of headphone. 

 Also if I may ask, what are you using for interconnects ??


----------



## ymv

Milkpowder, I find the sound good, the realism of some instruments is great. I listen to mostly classical. Particularly with Symphonies, it's like it puts all the sounds and instruments out there, but it's not quite solid and clear?

 Yeah, I'll have to give it some more time; I'm using balanced Harmonic Technology magic link two's. I originally was using an inexpensive ($85) pair of balanced cables, and recently bought the HT's from Audiogon. They definately improved things a bit, like the texture of instruments. The sound with the cheap interconnects was so much like my discman/HD555 I was wondering what was going on.


----------



## webbie64

ymv,

 The other recommendation I've consistently seen when people are concerned about not getting the full SR-007 experience is ensuring you have the best fit. I understand the headbands sometimes need twisting/adjustment to ensure you get the drivers angled correctly towards your ear canal.

 Do a search of the thread as I'm sure it's mentioned at least once. Or PM spritzer, who is very precise on how to get the most out of the SR-007.


----------



## pabbi1

I listened to some OII again this weekend (just a matter of time and budget) - no darkness at all, and some REALLY wild synergy with Marc's KGSS. Just absolutely superior - and really wanted to hear them on the BH... another day soon.


----------



## The Other Allen

Well, I'm waiting for the ebay auction to end on a new SRS2050II. Hopefully by next weekend I'll be able to test drive them and see what all the fuss is about. Almost bought another set of phones, but then started to think that I ought to try something out of the box, so to speak, and spend a little more to get a Stax system.


----------



## ymv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The other recommendation I've consistently seen when people are concerned about not getting the full SR-007 experience is ensuring you have the best fit. I understand the headbands sometimes need twisting/adjustment to ensure you get the drivers angled correctly towards your ear canal.

 Do a search of the thread as I'm sure it's mentioned at least once. Or PM spritzer, who is very precise on how to get the most out of the SR-007. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the tip webbie, though I've had a look at this before as well. My fit seems to be different to most though; if I drew a line across my face connecting the seems on the earpads, it would go across my cheeks and the tip of my nose, from other people's comments, most have it facing up towards the temples...I guess it shouldn't matter as long as it is creating a good seal and is comfy...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ymv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tip webbie, though I've had a look at this before as well. My fit seems to be different to most though; if I drew a line across my face connecting the seems on the earpads, it would go across my cheeks and the tip of my nose, from other people's comments, most have it facing up towards the temples...I guess it shouldn't matter as long as it is creating a good seal and is comfy..._

 

A small variation in the angle of the pads shouldn't matter. If they are comfortable then you have the right fit. The boomy bass could be the result of some other part of the system or the that phones are too loose on the head. The cables aren't something I'd use on a SR-007 system and since you don't list the source that could be the cause but it is easier to just bend the metal arcs a few degrees. There are breaks in the metal arcs that suspend the phones on each side, just before the enter each earpiece. Try bending them with your hands so the the bottom of the earpieces comes closer together. Start off slow and listen for any changes. You can also try to simulate the effect by having the phones on the head and press in the bottom of the cups while keeping the top in place. Be careful to not block the back of the cups or break the seal as both will alter the sound. 

 One last thing... are the phones new or did you buy them used? The SR-007 is very sensitive to the condition of the earpads and they need to be replaced every 2-3 years with normal usage or when the foam has lost its stiffness.


----------



## ymv

Thanks, I'll give that a shot now, Spritzer. I bought the phones new 7 months ago, but only started using them 1 and a bit months ago as I was waiting for the amp. So they sat in their box for a while...

 Ah, ok, are these cables a poor choice? In what way? What would you suggest?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ymv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, I'll give that a shot now, Spritzer. I bought the phones new 7 months ago, but only started using them 1 and a bit months ago as I was waiting for the amp. So they sat in their box for a while...

 Ah, ok, are these cables a poor choice? In what way? What would you suggest?_

 

I would always suggest silver for use with the SR-007. Kimber KCAG is a good, cheap-ish choice and so is Ridge Street Audio Poiema.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ymv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I just wanted to ask some advice from you guys if you can help. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am having a little trouble with my new stax system. I have been listening to this set-up for about a month now; SR-007 (omega II) -> KGSS -> high quality cd player. To be honest though I am a bit disappointed with it. Previous to this system I was using a discman and Sennheiser HD555 headphones, so I made a big leap (thanks head-fi), I feel that there is an improvement with this rig in that instruments have more texture, there is more detail, the bass is better. But just not as great as I expected, the bass is a little boomy, and the whole presentation just doesn't seem as awesome as I thought it would be. I first auditioned a stax headphone about a year ago at a shop, it must have been the classic or signature system. I thought it sounded awesome. I have no idea how this compares to my current rig though, as it was so long ago. Maybe I was just expecting too much! Though could there be something wrong here? Obviously it is all working but maybe something isn't quite right? Is that possible? Or could there be a lack of synergy with my components or something?

 Any help or comments would be much appreciated._

 

ymv,
 Search this thread for my comments on the KGSS vs. SRM-717 vs. SRM-007t driving the SR-007. I listen to a lot of classical music and found the KGSS was not great at retrieving ambiance cues and low level detail. I found the sound forward and flat with a small headstage. I didn’t think that the KGSS had boomy bass, that could be your source.

 AudioD


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would always suggest silver for use with the SR-007. Kimber KCAG is a good, cheap-ish choice and so is Ridge Street Audio Poiema._

 

The Kimber KCAG is £468.00 (~$930) in the UK. That is pretty expensive for a tribraid teflon sleeved silver wire with nondescript terminations, dontcha think?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Kimber KCAG is £468.00 (~$930) in the UK. That is pretty expensive for a tribraid teflon sleeved silver wire with nondescript terminations, dontcha think?_

 

Ahh that is the Russ Andrews effect. He does have some good products but the prices... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Search Audiogon instead...


----------



## Faust2D

Does anyone has full technical and construction specs for lambda headphones. My friend is thinking about a new amp design and need these specs.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone has full technical and construction specs for lambda headphones. My friend is thinking about a new amp design and need these specs._

 

What specs does he need? All of the Lambdas use different driver design but you only need total system capacitance and bias voltage. Both are provided in the spec sheets on the Stax site.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Just bought it. My wallet hurts like heck and there's now a huge hole in my bank account. Student life just doesn't go hand in hand with this expensive, expensive hobby.

 I told myself I'd stop spending monnies on headphones after the HE60 but I can't! The Lambda sound is something I don't think I can live without, at least not until I can afford a SR-007. Nice food or nice headphones? I chose the latter
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The Lambda's are a great stop, on the way up to the SR-007.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A 'Box For Sale' update.

 Still hours to go but at the moment the STAX SRM-1/MK-2 EMPTY box ($US56)_

 

Hilarious!
 $56 for an empty cardboard box...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What does "PP" on the SRM-1 mean? (I'm guessing two Pro Bias vs one Pro and one normal)._

 

"Pro Pro", as in two Pro outputs. Compared to one Pro and one Normal on the SRM-1/MK2 Pro, and two Normal on the SRM-1/MK2.

 Edit: Now I see that its the same seller as for the cardboard box above. Go figure...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ymv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I just wanted to ask some advice from you guys if you can help. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am having a little trouble with my new stax system. I have been listening to this set-up for about a month now; SR-007 (omega II) -> KGSS -> high quality cd player. To be honest though I am a bit disappointed with it. Previous to this system I was using a discman and Sennheiser HD555 headphones, so I made a big leap (thanks head-fi), I feel that there is an improvement with this rig in that instruments have more texture, there is more detail, the bass is better. But just not as great as I expected, the bass is a little boomy, and the whole presentation just doesn't seem as awesome as I thought it would be. I first auditioned a stax headphone about a year ago at a shop, it must have been the classic or signature system. I thought it sounded awesome. I have no idea how this compares to my current rig though, as it was so long ago. Maybe I was just expecting too much! Though could there be something wrong here? Obviously it is all working but maybe something isn't quite right? Is that possible? Or could there be a lack of synergy with my components or something?

 Any help or comments would be much appreciated._

 

Make sure you get a good fit.
 They will sound boomy if you don't get an air tight seal around the ears. Try rotating the earpads, until it hopefully tighten up.
 It might be cause by some other component in your system as well. Source or interconnects maybe? They sure sing with silver cables...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone has full technical and construction specs for lambda headphones. My friend is thinking about a new amp design and need these specs._

 

Depends which specs he need, and on which Lambda 'phones'. But some SR-404 specs can be found in the Stax site.
Open air type Earspeaker : SR-404 (Signature)


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What specs does he need? All of the Lambdas use different driver design but you only need total system capacitance and bias voltage. Both are provided in the spec sheets on the Stax site._

 

He was wondering about potential for voltage swing and change in capacitance for different Stax headphones. I am interested in Lambda specs in particular.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He was wondering about potential for voltage swing and change in capacitance for different Stax headphones. I am interested in Lambda specs in particular._

 

Do you mean maximum voltage swing or their sensitivity? The maximum is somewhere north of 1kV and the sensitivity is in the spec sheet.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* 
_~snip~_

 

Thanks Kai, I should have them by next week if the postal services are kind to me.

 I know this has been beaten to death already, but what can I expect of the Lambda Pro having previously owned the SR-404. Do the Lambda Pro's thicker diaphragm mean it is more sluggish than the SR-404?

 I'm also interested in a pair of Airbow SC-1 in the foreseeable future, but can't get my head around the stupidly complex Japanese website of theirs. It's not like I have the cash at the moment, but how does one actually purchase a pair?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Kai, I should have them by next week if the postal services are kind to me.

 I know this has been beaten to death already, but what can I expect of the Lambda Pro having previously owned the SR-404. Do the Lambda Pro's thicker diaphragm mean it is more sluggish than the SR-404?

 I'm also interested in a pair of Airbow SC-1 in the foreseeable future, but can't get my head around the stupidly complex Japanese website of theirs. It's not like I have the cash at the moment, but how does one actually purchase a pair?_

 

I bought mine used but you could try asking PriceJapan or EIFL to find a pair for you.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Kai, I should have them by next week if the postal services are kind to me.

 I know this has been beaten to death already, but what can I expect of the Lambda Pro having previously owned the SR-404. Do the Lambda Pro's thicker diaphragm mean it is more sluggish than the SR-404?_

 

Not quite sure about the diaphragm thickness.
 Afaik the SR-Lambda Pro use 2µm, but not sure if the SR-404 use 1.0, 1.5 or 2.0µm. Guess Birgir can fill us in...

 The SR-Lambda Pro suffer from a midrange suck-in, and are a not quite as smooth and detailed as the SR-404. Not quite up to the SR-404 sound wise imo, but still an awesome pair of headphones.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm also interested in a pair of Airbow SC-1 in the foreseeable future, but can't get my head around the stupidly complex Japanese website of theirs. It's not like I have the cash at the moment, but how does one actually purchase a pair?_

 

I quote you on this one.
 I've been actively looking for a used SR-SC1 for 4-5 months, without any luck. So I am very close to giving up and ordering a new pair.

 Guess I can email EIFL and post back the reply, in can he can help us.
 Ok, I'll do that...


----------



## Elephas

If someone thinks the SR-007 + KGSS has boomy bass, I recommend the K501 or the R10 less-bass version.


----------



## milkpowder

Cool. I didn't think the Lambda Pro was as good as the SR-404, but I am curious about vintage headphones which are older than me!

 Iirc, the Lambda is 2.0um, Lambda Pro - 1.5um, Lambda Signature 1.0um and the current Lambdas range 1.35um. The 1.0um Signatures are next on my to-buy list. Birgir said a while back that the Signature is like the HE60, but with more bass. How lovely would that be?! 


 I just sent off a query to EIFL. I dread to think of the import duties though...

 Elephas has one. Maybe we can ask how he got his


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. I didn't think the Lambda Pro was as good as the SR-404, but I am curious about vintage headphones which are older than me!_

 

I still prefer the Lambda Pros over the 404s. There is just somethings that don't agree with me in the 404s ,but can't really put my finger on it. Wait till you get them and decide for yourself. You may be surprised.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you mean maximum voltage swing or their sensitivity? The maximum is somewhere north of 1kV and the sensitivity is in the spec sheet._

 

Max voltage swing. Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. I didn't think the Lambda Pro was as good as the SR-404, but I am curious about vintage headphones which are older than me!

 Iirc, the Lambda is 2.0um, Lambda Pro - 1.5um, Lambda Signature 1.0um and the current Lambdas range 1.35um. The 1.0um Signatures are next on my to-buy list. Birgir said a while back that the Signature is like the HE60, but with more bass. How lovely would that be?!_

 

The Signature is pretty close to the He60 with the normal Lambda bass bloom. They are also like the He60 as they need plenty of power to shine. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just sent off a query to EIFL. I dread to think of the import duties though...

 Elephas has one. Maybe we can ask how he got his
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The import duties can be managed... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Signature is pretty close to the He60 with the normal Lambda bass bloom. They are also like the He60 as they need plenty of power to shine._

 

I am very happy with the SR-Lambda Signature and SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The amp/driver seems to clearly have enough power to drive them well. There is a richness and fullness in the weight of the instruments, that the SR-Lambda do hint at but don't quite provide. (yet the SR-Lambda still are wonderful in their own right).

 Instead of looking for something better like SR-007, I was only looking for something different. Thus, I ordered SR-003, and might mod my SR-001 Mk2 driver someday, both being pretty economical for a new toy.

 But then I read about the HE Audio, and I want to know will the HE Audio 1.2B beat my current setup, using my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro to drive them? It seems like they would be a better bargain than SR-007 or Omega II which need a monster amp/driver to shine. I don't even need them, but I have to know.


----------



## milkpowder

Weren't you selling your Signatures?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Weren't you selling your Signatures?_

 

Me? NEVER


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS: I had to offer mapstec the moon to get his Lambda Signatures. He only took my left nut instead. 

 (triple.fi 10 Pro, ER6i and $260 with all shipping, worth about $700 total...)


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Kimber KCAG is £468.00 (~$930) in the UK. That is pretty expensive for a tribraid teflon sleeved silver wire with nondescript terminations, dontcha think?_

 

the terminations are a simple rhodium plated connector. The WBT are really a necessary evil here. Verdict is still out on the Switchcraft XLR that they use. Price is around $100 - $150 US for 0.5m SE used and ~$150 for 0.5m XLR used. I think it's an excellent cable for electrostatic use. I did some comparisons with Alex's cable, and while I hope to have more info in my write-up, I would say that the Kimber KCAG would be a better match with that up sampling player + HE60 of yours. Stay tuned to the meet impression threads for more info.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If someone thinks the SR-007 + KGSS has boomy bass, I recommend the K501 or the R10 less-bass version._

 

lol, good one...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ymv,
 I listen to a lot of classical music and found the KGSS was not great at retrieving ambiance cues and low level detail. I found the sound forward and flat with a small headstage._

 

After more comparisons, I think this is 100% due to source. Which source would you base the above conclusion on?


----------



## fierce_freak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS: I had to offer mapstec the moon to get his Lambda Signatures. He only took my left nut instead. 

 (triple.fi 10 Pro, ER6i and $260 with all shipping, worth about $700 total...)_

 

Ouch...I was about to post and ask about current market value of the sigs as I'd become interested in them after getting my SR-Lambda.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still prefer the Lambda Pros over the 404s. There is just somethings that don't agree with me in the 404s ,but can't really put my finger on it. Wait till you get them and decide for yourself. You may be surprised._

 

I agree! I owned the 404 and find them to bright in the upper midrange lower treble for my taste. My favorite Lambda's are the original SR-Lambda and the Lambda Pro. In many ways I like the 202 better than the 404.


----------



## Vaughn

I am being tortured....

 I received my SR-404's from Japan today and received my SRM-313 last 
 week. The day after tomorrow I will receive the transformer/adapter so I can
 actually plug the 313 into the wall!

 Until then I must keep the box sealed and out of sight.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After more comparisons, I think this is 100% due to source. Which source would you base the above conclusion on?_

 

Most of the classical I listen to is vinyl. My table is a Well Tempered Reference with a Denon 103D cartridge. My preamp is a Audible Illusions Modulus 3A with the John Curl phono boards. My favorite labels are Decca, Mercury, RCA and EMI.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fierce_freak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch...I was about to post and ask about current market value of the sigs as I'd become interested in them after getting my SR-Lambda._

 

Well, Spritzer had a Lambda Sig for sale for $500 but I cheaped out and bought the $300 gamma pro and regretted it. By then the Sigs were gone. Now, mapstec wasn't selling his but I knew he had some. So, I twisted his arm and talked him into selling - after all that I won.


----------



## facelvega

Hey, does anybody have a quote on a recent build of either a KGSS or Blue Hawaii? I'm getting tired of trying to find a Stax amp at a reasonable price for my venture into pro bias, thought I might venture into DIY. Are there any other common electostatic amp designs in circulation that have flown below my radar?


----------



## naamanf

I just built a BH. I didn't keep track of what I spent but if I had to guess I would say about $1000-1200. I didn't buy any "boutique" parts for it though.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just built a BH. I didn't keep track of what I spent but if I had to guess I would say about $1000-1200. I didn't buy any "boutique" parts for it though._

 

So, what are your impressions of the BH, btw?


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS: I had to offer mapstec the moon to get his Lambda Signatures. He only took my left nut instead. 

 (triple.fi 10 Pro, ER6i and $260 with all shipping, worth about $700 total...)_

 

Ouch. Was it completely mint?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the terminations are a simple rhodium plated connector. The WBT are really a necessary evil here. Verdict is still out on the Switchcraft XLR that they use. Price is around $100 - $150 US for 0.5m SE used and ~$150 for 0.5m XLR used. I think it's an excellent cable for electrostatic use. I did some comparisons with Alex's cable, and while I hope to have more info in my write-up, I would say that the Kimber KCAG would be a better match with that up sampling player + HE60 of yours. Stay tuned to the meet impression threads for more info._

 

Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for the Kimber KCAG then.

 Some websites are selling the KCAG with the 0102 Ag
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am being tortured....

 I received my SR-404's from Japan today and received my SRM-313 last 
 week. The day after tomorrow I will receive the transformer/adapter so I can
 actually plug the 313 into the wall!

 Until then I must keep the box sealed and out of sight._

 

Congrats!


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, what are your impressions of the BH, btw?_

 


 The only amp I have to compare it too is the 007ta. It is like everyone says a much better amp for the 02 than the 007. I have two sets of tubes for it, the Winged C and some Groove Tubes reproduction XF2s. I prefer the sound of the Winged C over the GT. I do want to get some real XF2s and see what they can do. I also need another pair of electrostatics to try out on it. I am considering making myself a HE audio guinea pig.


----------



## pabbi1

I will most likely join you in the HE chase... pending the Mayberry on Lysurgic Acid-diethylamide (25) impressions, and the BH revival. Hopefully you have a tube tester - rat bastards selling all sorts of junk that happens to have a xf2 label...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch. Was it completely mint?_

 

Yes, even all the foam is there and not deteriorated, and the Signatures are flawless.


----------



## milkpowder

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/ic...nature-290651/

 Decent price. Any takers?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/ic...nature-290651/

 Decent price. Any takers?_

 

I sent him an offer at 11:03pm, but have not heard back yet. When this is all over, I'll have more STAX than Spritzer before I die. Inwardly, I'm hoping he turns me down so I can get on with my life.

 Oh, but then there is the SuperFatCat mod for my SR-001 Mk2 I have to get through...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, Spritzer had a Lambda Sig for sale for $500 but I cheaped out and bought the $300 gamma pro and regretted it. By then the Sigs were gone. Now, mapstec wasn't selling his but I knew he had some. So, I twisted his arm and talked him into selling - after all that I won._

 

He's already missing the Signatures and has sent me on the hunt for a new set. The Sigma Pro should keep him happy though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, does anybody have a quote on a recent build of either a KGSS or Blue Hawaii? I'm getting tired of trying to find a Stax amp at a reasonable price for my venture into pro bias, thought I might venture into DIY. Are there any other common electostatic amp designs in circulation that have flown below my radar?_

 

The KGSS should come in under 1k$ and the BH a bit more. I also quite like the direct coupled tube amp that KG designed but I've yet to design a good PSU for it.


----------



## WittyzTH

just got the entire level of STAX, SRM3000.

 It sounds surprisingly amazing lots of details and very airy presentation, but the earspeakers leak a lot of sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe need to save up for the higher-end amp and 4070s.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS should come in under 1k$ and the BH a bit more._

 

Yes, but who wants a standard KGSS when "Marc (luvdunhill) has hit the pinnacle of that design". As you say, Spritzer...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, much better PSU (both HV and LV) and increased standing power._

 

So how do we get THAT design and replicate it? Including the tweak of running at a higher voltage? With Joshua Tree attenuators? At what cost?

 And is it so good that it'll even satisfy tube lovers (KGBH envy) like myself?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, but who wants a standard KGSS when "Marc (luvdunhill) has hit the pinnacle of that design". As you say, Spritzer..._

 

The changes on the amp side aren't that dramatic but the PSU is totally different. If you want a bigger PSU it will cost ya... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how do we get THAT design and replicate it? Including the tweak of running at a higher voltage? With Joshua Tree attenuators? At what cost?

 And is it so good that it'll even satisfy tube lovers (KGBH envy) like myself?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think that the KGSS can come close to the BH but it would also benefit greatly from a new PSU and even a new type of output tubes. There are plenty of old pentodes and tetrodes out there that are cheap and in abundant supply. First step would be to upgrade the 15v PSU.


----------



## Capunk

I don't have any opportunities for auditioning any STAX earspeaker or their amps... so based on your experience, does 2050 system would be a significant upgrade over K701 recabled with SAA Equinox? or should I go for 3050? 

 O2 out of question, 4040 might be considered... but does it worth over 3050?


----------



## kechinhphuc

I have just received my new earspeaker Stax 2050A Basic system (with SR-202 headphone and SRM-252A driven unit). Unfortunately, it's the Japanese domestic version with a manual in Japanese and I can't understand anything. 
 There are 4 RCA jack in the driven unit and I don't know how to connect my computer sound card and my MP3 player with this unit ? Should I buy a interconnecter cable (3.5mm to 2 x RCA) ? In this case, what is the function of other 2 RCA jacks ?
 Another question for the AC-DC Adapter, can I though the AC-DC Adapter (only run with 100V source) which come along with the system and buy the new one which can be used with 220V source and produce the DC12V 4W (because I live in Euro) ?
 Thanks for your help


----------



## milkpowder

I had the 4040 and the K701 (stock, amped with Xin Supermacro III, RSA Hornet, Hornet M, Meier Headfive) at one point. The K701 was clearly lacking in details and was _comparatively_ cold and uninvolving. That said, I'm sure that given a better amp capable of delivering more current, the K701 will sound a lot better.

 I first heard the SR-202 amped from a SRM-717 a bit over a year ago and at that time I was using the K701/Headfive combo. Even though I seem to remember the SR-202 being a bit anaemic in the bass regions and perhaps not quite as competent overall as the K701, I was hooked onto how it, and later the SR-007, reproduced music in such an effortless manner. At $500 a pop, the SRS-2050A is the best, most affordable, readily available introduction to the Stax sound. Since you already have a speaker amplifier, you should also consider getting a vintage earspeaker/adapter combination from eBay/Audiogon, etc...

 You should get together with webbie64. He's also in Australia and has a few electrostatic headphones you could listen to.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kechinhphuc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just received my new earspeaker Stax 2050A Basic system (with SR-202 headphone and SRM-252A driven unit). Unfortunately, it's the Japanese domestic version with a manual in Japanese and I can't understand anything. 
 There are 4 RCA jack in the driven unit and I don't know how to connect my computer sound card and my MP3 player with this unit ? Should I buy a interconnecter cable (3.5mm to 2 x RCA) ? In this case, what is the function of other 2 RCA jacks ?
 Another question for the AC-DC Adapter, can I though the AC-DC Adapter (only run with 100V source) which come along with the system and buy the new one which can be used with 220V source and produce the DC12V 4W (because I live in Euro) ?
 Thanks for your help_

 

There is only a single input on the 252 and the other two RCA jacks are a loop out so you can pass the signal on. 

 You need a 12v/1A DC adapter but make sure that the ring is the + and the pin -. This is the other way around for most supplies but you can always cut the cable leading to the amp and switch the wires around.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kechinhphuc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just received my new earspeaker Stax 2050A Basic system (with SR-202 headphone and SRM-252A driven unit). Unfortunately, it's the Japanese domestic version with a manual in Japanese and I can't understand anything. 
 There are 4 RCA jack in the driven unit and I don't know how to connect my computer sound card and my MP3 player with this unit ? Should I buy a interconnecter cable (3.5mm to 2 x RCA) ? In this case, what is the function of other 2 RCA jacks ?
 Another question for the AC-DC Adapter, can I though the AC-DC Adapter (only run with 100V source) which come along with the system and buy the new one which can be used with 220V source and produce the DC12V 4W (because I live in Euro) ?
 Thanks for your help_

 

Congrats!






 You'll need a 3.5mm male to 2 x RCA male. One pair of RCAs will be input and the other pair have to be a loop/parallel-out since I can't see an input/source selector anywhere. I have no idea which ones are which though! I guess you could try it for yourself. I suspect the left one is the input, so plug the right-channel RCA into the left "R"-input and the left-channel RCA into the left "L"-input.

 I'm guessing you could use another regulated AC-DC as long as it outputs 12V DC from 220V AC and can supply at least 0.33A.


----------



## kechinhphuc

So, can I buy this cable for my MP3 player ?
¡Ú³ÚÅ·»Ô¾ì¡Ûaudioquest¡Ê¥ª¡¼¥Ç¥£¥ª¥¯¥¨¥¹¥È¡Ë Mini-1¡Ê1.0m¡Ë ¥ª¡¼¥Ç¥£¥ª¥±¡¼¥Ö¥ë¡Ê¥ß¥Ë¥×¥é¥°¢ÎRCA¡Ë¡§¥¢¥Ð¥Ã¥¯³ÚÅ ·»Ô¾ìÅ¹
 I think it's too long (1m) but I can not find any shorter one (like my present interconnector, it's only 30cm long. Can you tell me where to buy the shorter one ?
 For the AC Adapter, can I use this one ?
Coby CA44-220V Universal AC Adapter
 Or can I keep the original AC Adapter and use it with this voltage transformer: 
50W AC power voltage converter transformer 220V>100V - eBay (item 220196721037 end time Feb-04-08 03:48:47 PST)

 Again, thanks for your help


----------



## spritzer

You can certainly keep the original Stax transformer and use it with a step down unit.


----------



## Traddad

So....I just pulled the trigger on a set of Baby Stax....What type of new religious experience am I going to have? What's the consensus on the major difference I will hear in comparison to my MS-1s?
 What's the next Stax product that a poor biologist like moi will feel compelled (and have the money) to buy? (read: what's a good full size model that I can afford?)
 Inquiring minds and all......


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, does anybody have a quote on a recent build of either a KGSS or Blue Hawaii? I'm getting tired of trying to find a Stax amp at a reasonable price for my venture into pro bias, thought I might venture into DIY. Are there any other common electostatic amp designs in circulation that have flown below my radar?_

 

there are literally tons.. I'm hunting around some of the Japanese designs that Spritzer has alluded to... 

 I'm thinking about trying one of the lower cost designs here:

Frame

 I based the psu for my project off of the design posted there as well.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The changes on the amp side aren't that dramatic but the PSU is totally different. If you want a bigger PSU it will cost ya... _

 

I'd guess my psu alone cost around $1k, probably half of that was toroids.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the KGSS can come close to the BH but it would also benefit greatly from a new PSU and even a new type of output tubes. There are plenty of old pentodes and tetrodes out there that are cheap and in abundant supply. First step would be to upgrade the 15v PSU._

 

stay tuned 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 pabbi1 graciously donated more to the cause, at this point I'm waiting on the top and bottom plate and then I'll order the front and back panels. Then I have the PITA part of tapping a billion holes in the heatsinks ...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most of the classical I listen to is vinyl. My table is a Well Tempered Reference with a Denon 103D cartridge. My preamp is a Audible Illusions Modulus 3A with the John Curl phono boards. My favorite labels are Decca, Mercury, RCA and EMI._

 

me too! In fact, my last cartridge was the now-hard-to-find 103D. Great choice! And, you cannot beat anything by JC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really wish the KGSS was a bit more forward, especially with the SR-007. That's probably my biggest complaint at this point. I guess there is the small chance that the BH exhibits some HF rolloff (though, I think it really was the E5 that Al was using), in which case I would probably prefer the KGSS. The low end has been augmented with the extra headroom of more class A and larger power supplies, so that gap has been closed somewhat. Adding the Black Gate capacitors made no difference with the new power supply either (though I'll probably try the Jensen 4-pole 'lytics in the next revision) Probably my next step is to find someone (maybe naamanaf) to work with me on some pcb prototypes. I used EAGLE to try out a few layouts before I started protoboarding, but things have changed and at this point need to change further, as I need to eliminate all the 450v parts and try to go for a minimum of 500v everywhere, which will require a new layout.


----------



## kpeezy

I miss those babystax so much...What is the cheapest I can get that sound for in a full size system that isn't as uncomfortable as the SR-001s?


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd guess my psu alone cost around $1k, probably half of that was toroids._

 



























 We need to talk... 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really wish the KGSS was a bit more forward, especially with the SR-007. That's probably my biggest complaint at this point. I guess there is the small chance that the BH exhibits some HF rolloff (though, I think it really was the E5 that Al was using), in which case I would probably prefer the KGSS. The low end has been augmented with the extra headroom of more class A and larger power supplies, so that gap has been closed somewhat. Adding the Black Gate capacitors made no difference with the new power supply either (though I'll probably try the Jensen 4-pole 'lytics in the next revision) Probably my next step is to find someone (maybe naamanaf) to work with me on some pcb prototypes. I used EAGLE to try out a few layouts before I started protoboarding, but things have changed and at this point need to change further, as I need to eliminate all the 450v parts and try to go for a minimum of 500v everywhere, which will require a new layout._

 

We are simply not worthy - now, about that bias selecter switch (560 / 580 / 600 / 620)...


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_











 I miss those babystax so much...What is the cheapest I can get that sound for in a full size system that isn't as uncomfortable as the SR-001s?_

 

The S-001/SR-003 are quite unique in that the bass is unusually dominant for an electrostatic headphone. The closest sounding 'stat to the S-001/SR-003 is actually the SR-007
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Moving upwards in the Stax range will give you an increased sense of clarity, refinement and soundstage. The resolving power of the S-001/SR-003 is pretty darn incredible and that is retained throughout the range.

 Even though I haven't heard most of them , I'm tempted to say that any pair of Lambdas , Lambda Nova, SR-x0x would do. The normal bias Lambda should be the cheapest of them all.

 Birgir, what's the difference between the Lambda Signature and the Lambda Nova Signature?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd guess my psu alone cost around $1k, probably half of that was toroids._

 

Toroids.... blah!!! Give me R-core of give me death... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stay tuned 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 pabbi1 graciously donated more to the cause, at this point I'm waiting on the top and bottom plate and then I'll order the front and back panels. Then I have the PITA part of tapping a billion holes in the heatsinks ..._

 

I know how dead boring that is. Next time I'm going with some sort of a clamping system to hold the transistors in place. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We are simply not worthy - now, about that bias selecter switch (560 / 580 / 600 / 620)... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That should be easy to full off. A simple switch with different resistors or a built in voltmeter tied to the bias line.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Toroids.... blah!!! Give me R-core of give me death... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I had no luck finding them. I am using a pair of Plitron 300VA toroids, I've never seen any R-cores that are suitable for more than preamp use. As for custom winding, the one person I talked to about this said that the cores aren't large enough to support this type of VA rating. YMMV, but that's what I found.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kechinhphuc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, can I buy this cable for my MP3 player ?
¡Ú³ÚÅ·»Ô¾ì¡Ûaudioquest¡Ê¥ª¡¼¥Ç¥£¥ª¥¯¥¨¥¹¥È¡Ë Mini-1¡Ê1.0m¡Ë ¥ª¡¼¥Ç¥£¥ª¥±¡¼¥Ö¥ë¡Ê¥ß¥Ë¥×¥é¥°¢ÎRCA¡Ë¡§¥¢¥Ð¥Ã¥¯³ÚÅ ·»Ô¾ìÅ¹
 I think it's too long (1m) but I can not find any shorter one (like my present interconnector, it's only 30cm long. Can you tell me where to buy the shorter one ?
 For the AC Adapter, can I use this one ?
Coby CA44-220V Universal AC Adapter
 Or can I keep the original AC Adapter and use it with this voltage transformer: 
50W AC power voltage converter transformer 220V>100V - eBay (item 220196721037 end time Feb-04-08 03:48:47 PST)

 Again, thanks for your help_

 

Any similar cable will do, although the better the quality of the interconnect, the better the sound quality (see this thread a few pages back for someone -- barqy? -- who makes leads to order and seems to be recommended around these parts).

 God only knows I tremble at the prospect of disagreeing with Spritzer (THE guru of all things Stax), but I wouldn't use a voltage transformer to enable use of the Japanese power supply for your SRM-252. Far better to buy a decent power supply in your own country (£10/$20/€14 in the UK is enough to get a basic regulated 12V 1A power supply) which'll come with a few plugs and reversible cables so you can get the polarity right (see the diagram on the back of the amp).

 Also, if you look back through this thread, there was much discussion about beefier power supplies for the SRM-212/252.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even though I haven't heard most of them , I'm tempted to say that any pair of Lambdas , Lambda Nova, SR-x0x would do. The normal bias Lambda should be the cheapest of them all._

 

This has become my standard answer. Get a Lambda... any Lambda. The cheapest Lambda is either a SR-202 or a Nova Basic. Both the Classic models follow directly behind. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, what's the difference between the Lambda Signature and the Lambda Nova Signature?_

 

Sound wise it is rather large as Stax tried to make an even more refined headphone but dulled it down to much IMO. It lacks some of the excitement that makes the Signature so good but also fixes the "etch" that plagued the Signature. I have a sneaking suspicion that some of the negative aspects of the Nova Signature are due to the earpads as Stax changed them again for the 404. The material feels strange to the touch and different from the 404 material.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had no luck finding them. I am using a pair of Plitron 300VA toroids, I've never seen any R-cores that are suitable for more than preamp use. As for custom winding, the one person I talked to about this said that the cores aren't large enough to support this type of VA rating. YMMV, but that's what I found._

 

I've been looking around and found some 280VA that I might try. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_God only knows I tremble at the prospect of disagreeing with Spritzer (THE guru of all things Stax), but I wouldn't use a voltage transformer to enable use of the Japanese power supply for your SRM-252. Far better to buy a decent power supply in your own country (£10/$20/€14 in the UK is enough to get a basic regulated 12V 1A power supply) which'll come with a few plugs and reversible cables so you can get the polarity right (see the diagram on the back of the amp).

 Also, if you look back through this thread, there was much discussion about beefier power supplies for the SRM-212/252._

 

I would also use a regulated supply (as I said in my original post 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) but the step down unit will work in a pinch. Right now I'm using the 3A unit from a Creative speaker setup and it works a treat. 

 On a similar note I've been comparing my SRM-Xh and a SRM-212 I got nearly for free. While I've had a 212 here before I could never compare it to the Xh. The newer amp is a clear step in the right direction with better control and thus deeper bass and cleaner treble. The soundstage is larger and better defined so a definitive improvement. The only thing I don't like is the power switch built into the potentiometer.


----------



## Traddad

Quick question: I'm getting a 100V adapter with my Baby Stax. Will it be OK to run that on 120V US current or will I have to buy an adapter for the adapter? I've heard it both ways.


----------



## pipoplus

I Just bought a SRD-7PRO and a SR-303 set to keep me busy
 I was pretty impressed by the SRD-7PRO much more than I expected
 The Lambda SR-303 was sounding much like Lambda nova basic that I already had maybe a bit more detailed in the mid/highs and a little less bass . (I also think they need some burnin because the previous owner had it only for a month or so)
 I think I also need a Signature!


----------



## krmathis

Sorry for the long post.
 But that's what happens when I try to get on track once a day... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS: I had to offer mapstec the moon to get his Lambda Signatures. He only took my left nut instead. 

 (triple.fi 10 Pro, ER6i and $260 with all shipping, worth about $700 total...)_

 

Ouch! The later Lambda Signature demand seem to rise their price noticeable.
 Guess thats a good thing for those owning one, but not quite as good for those looking to buy one.

 Thanks god they are not on my WTB list. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am being tortured....

 I received my SR-404's from Japan today and received my SRM-313 last 
 week. The day after tomorrow I will receive the transformer/adapter so I can
 actually plug the 313 into the wall!

 Until then I must keep the box sealed and out of sight._

 

I feel with you!
 Having all that gear around, which you can't use because of a simple transformer. That must be hard.

 Hope its worth the wait though. he he

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WittyzTH* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just got the entire level of STAX, SRM3000.

 It sounds surprisingly amazing lots of details and very airy presentation, but the earspeakers leak a lot of sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe need to save up for the higher-end amp and 4070s. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, they are open back with very little isolation at all.
 The 4070 is just what you want though. Great sounding, and isolate very well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kechinhphuc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just received my new earspeaker Stax 2050A Basic system (with SR-202 headphone and SRM-252A driven unit)._

 

Welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Great choice on the SRS-2050A. A nice little system, which I am sure will serve you well for a long time.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_











 I miss those babystax so much...What is the cheapest I can get that sound for in a full size system that isn't as uncomfortable as the SR-001s?_

 

Yes, the SR-001MK2 is a great little system.
 I sort of miss mine some times as well, but not the wearing (dis)comfort.

 Its still highly possible to find a great deal on vintage Stax gear. Example an SR-X/MK3 with a matching SRD-7 energizer, which with some luck can be had for $150-200.
 The cheapest new system will let you down about $450.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I Just bought a SRD-7PRO and a SR-303 set to keep me busy
 I was pretty impressed by the SRD-7PRO much more than I expected
 The Lambda SR-303 was sounding much like Lambda nova basic that I already had maybe a bit more detailed in the mid/highs and a little less bass . (I also think they need some burnin because the previous owner had it only for a month or so)
 I think I also need a Signature!_

 

Nice score!
 Especially with the SRD-7 Pro, which are highly sought after these days. Cause more and more people get their eyes open to energizers these days.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question: I'm getting a 100V adapter with my Baby Stax. Will it be OK to run that on 120V US current or will I have to buy an adapter for the adapter? I've heard it both ways._

 

I wouldn't recommend it. Just find some 12v DC unit, 1A or more, and use that instead. Just note the polarity is reversed on Stax amps in comparison with almost everything else.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_there are literally tons.. I'm hunting around some of the Japanese designs that Spritzer has alluded to... 

 I'm thinking about trying one of the lower cost designs here:

Frame

 I based the psu for my project off of the design posted there as well._

 

thanks, luvdunhill, this is exactly what I was looking for. Annoyingly, I just read most of the pages in German (my third language) before noticing the translations below. 

 My problem is that I'm working only as a part-time professor right now, so an $800 Stax amp is out of my range at the moment. A $200-250 DIY amp is much more feasible for me within the next year or two, and the site you linked seems to be just what the doctor ordered, or what's on order for someone still finishing his doctorate. thanks again, FV


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am being tortured....

 I received my SR-404's from Japan today and received my SRM-313 last 
 week. The day after tomorrow I will receive the transformer/adapter so I can
 actually plug the 313 into the wall!

 Until then I must keep the box sealed and out of sight._

 

This should be good. I suggest a few tweaks. Get a better power cord for the amp and use footers. I like sorebthane myself. 

 There is some general complaint that the 404 can sound edgy. I use Silclear silver paste on all contacts (power cords, IC's, hedphone plug) and find it helps the 404 enormously. Firstly the system has more power, I find that I turn the volume controls down about one notch. Bass is more powerful and the treble "etch" pretty much goes away. Not bad for about $30.00.

 Of course you can play with different interconnects to get rid of treble harshness. It's not always the most expensive that works best.


----------



## milkpowder

I've heard back from EIFL re: Airbow SC-1

  Quote:


 Jonathan,

 Thank you for your inquiry.

 I can get it at US$ 850 including my commission and postage.

 I accept credit card with 6% card charge.

 Regards Koji/EIFL
 *********************************
 Koji Wakabayashi
 EIFL Corporation
 1-8 Fujimi 2 Chome Sayama City
 Saitama Pref.350-1306 Japan
 TEL +81(0)4-2956-1178
 FAX +81(0)4-2950-1667
 E-mail info@eifl.co.jp
 Website ƒAƒ“ƒv^‹óŠÇƒXƒs[ƒJ[”Ì”„E’Ê”Ì=ƒGƒCƒtƒ‹=
 ********************************* 
 

That's $900 altogether. Some day...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks, luvdunhill, this is exactly what I was looking for. Annoyingly, I just read most of the pages in German (my third language) before noticing the translations below. 

 My problem is that I'm working only as a part-time professor right now, so an $800 Stax amp is out of my range at the moment. A $200-250 DIY amp is much more feasible for me within the next year or two, and the site you linked seems to be just what the doctor ordered, or what's on order for someone still finishing his doctorate. thanks again, FV_

 

no problem. If you come up with a nice BOM for North American vendors, I'd be interested to take a look at it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




\


----------



## Vaughn

Quote:


 This should be good. I suggest a few tweaks. Get a better power cord for the amp and use footers. I like sorebthane myself. 

 There is some general complaint that the 404 can sound edgy. I use Silclear silver paste on all contacts (power cords, IC's, hedphone plug) and find it helps the 404 enormously. Firstly the system has more power, I find that I turn the volume controls down about one notch. Bass is more powerful and the treble "etch" pretty much goes away. Not bad for about $30.00.

 Of course you can play with different interconnects to get rid of treble harshness. It's not always the most expensive that works best. 
 

Thanks for the tips, Edstrelow, I believe I have everything but the contact enhancer.

 Tomorrow I will receive the adapter and will start listening! Unfortunately
 I have to send in my NAD C542 for repair so I won't really be giving the 404/313 setup the best source I can until it returns.

 On that topic.....

 Do you all think the C542 will be sufficient or is there another source out there which would completely trounce it for say....$500?

 Or alternately, use the 542 as a transport and upgrade with an external dac?


----------



## Traddad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't recommend it. Just find some 12v DC unit, 1A or more, and use that instead. Just note the polarity is reversed on Stax amps in comparison with almost everything else._

 

12v?
 I thought the wall wart only put out 4.5v. Am I missing something?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_12v?
 I thought the wall wart only put out 4.5v. Am I missing something?_

 

Ahh you meant for the SRS-001... I've been answering way to many questions about the 252 lately so I guess I'm in auto-pilot mode. It's 4.5v and not 12v.


----------



## randerson3024

Hey Spritz - Was machen zie? I ordered some HE Audio 1.2B's. Have you heard these yet? They are coming with the Stax adapter. Still waiting on the word regarding the shipping of my Omega 2 MK2's.

 Cheers - and still stricken with the flu - 

 Bob 
_



_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Spritz - Was machen zie? I ordered some HE Audio 1.2B's. Have you heard these yet? They are coming with the Stax adapter. Still waiting on the word regarding the shipping of my Omega 2 MK2's.

 Cheers - and still stricken with the flu - 

 Bob 




_

 

I have a nice chunk of change sitting in my Paypal account waiting for something to spend it on and the 1.2B might do the trick. 
 I have a set of rare Aurex phones in the bag and a Fontek set should be mine soon. I love rare electrostatic headphones...


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a nice chunk of change sitting in my Paypal account waiting for something to spend it on and the 1.2B might do the trick. 
 I have a set of rare Aurex phones in the bag and a Fontek set should be mine soon. I love rare electrostatic headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You may want to be careful when you do the transaction. I am sure it was an honest mistake, and perhaps a computer problem, but when I made the purchase, I had problems with the transaction going through. I did this using a credit card, but when checking my account this morning, I discovered that the money was taken from my bank account, and while not being reflected whatsoever on the Paypal site, two charges were made against my credit card. I contacted Fang, and have every confidence this will be corrected quickly when he responds. I think the problem is most likely with Paypal. Good luck!


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a nice chunk of change sitting in my Paypal account waiting for something to spend it on and the 1.2B might do the trick. 
 I have a set of rare Aurex phones in the bag and a Fontek set should be mine soon. I love rare electrostatic headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I forgot to ask - did your modified Denon arrive? I bought some Siltech cables that are sounding good in my system. I am looking at some Stealth Indra XLR's to match my AES/EBU's but they are really expensive. I may have to sell one of my balls to afford them. That's OK, though, it's not like I get to use them at sea.....one should suffice, and I don't want kids.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You may want to be careful when you do the transaction. I am sure it was an honest mistake, and perhaps a computer problem, but when I made the purchase, I had problems with the transaction going through. I did this using a credit card, but when checking my account this morning, I discovered that the money was taken from my bank account, and while not being reflected whatsoever on the Paypal site, two charges were made against my credit card. I contacted Fang, and have every confidence this will be corrected quickly when he responds. I think the problem is most likely with Paypal. Good luck!_

 

Thanks for the info. I'll speak to Fang before I order mine as I'd like to have it customized to take a larger cable. I'll also wait to see what the new version looks like. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I forgot to ask - did your modified Denon arrive? I bought some Siltech cables that are sounding good in my system. I am looking at some Stealth Indra XLR's to match my AES/EBU's but they are really expensive. I may have to sell one of my balls to afford them. That's OK, though, it's not like I get to use them at sea.....one should suffice, and I don't want kids.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Denon is still in CA but I should get it soon. The wait is killing me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Indra is a very, very nice cable but I like my own design better when I factor in the price... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are much better then most of the competition and are so relaxed and easy going. 

Read this for a comparison between the ultra high tech cables and those that don't believe in synthetic dielectrics. I know it's 6moons but they have to do something right, eventually...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a nice chunk of change sitting in my Paypal account waiting for something to spend it on and the 1.2B might do the trick. 
 I have a set of rare Aurex phones in the bag and a Fontek set should be mine soon. I love rare electrostatic headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Aha, so you were the one who snatched the Aurex


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aha, so you were the one who snatched the Aurex 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yup! I think there is time to try some other type of cans...


----------



## ericj

Please let us know how the HR-1000 sounds. I hear that the HR-910 is a bit like an SR-X III.


----------



## Vaughn

OK.....This is the sound I have been looking for!

 Can't post...any more...........must listen!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard back from EIFL re: Airbow SC-1 Quote:


 Jonathan,

 Thank you for your inquiry.

 I can get it at US$ 850 including my commission and postage.

 I accept credit card with 6% card charge.

 Regards Koji/EIFL
 *********************************
 Koji Wakabayashi
 EIFL Corporation
 1-8 Fujimi 2 Chome Sayama City
 Saitama Pref.350-1306 Japan
 TEL +81(0)4-2956-1178
 FAX +81(0)4-2950-1667
 E-mail info@eifl.co.jp
 Website ƒAƒ“ƒv^‹óŠÇƒXƒs[ƒJ[”Ì”„E’Ê”Ì=ƒGƒCƒtƒ‹=
 ********************************* 
 

That's $900 altogether. Some day..._

 

Exact same reply as I got.
 The price seems quite fair, considering that the SR-SC1 cost $610 (Yen 65,000). Cause there are shipping to him, then further to us. In addition he need to make something from being the middle-man.

 I certainly want one as well. 
 But sadly no used one have shown up, and now I am sort of more interested in the HeAudio EH-1.2b? Hmm...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. I'll speak to Fang before I order mine as I'd like to have it customized to take a larger cable. I'll also wait to see what the new version looks like._

 

Ditto!
 I am waiting for the first EH-1.2b pictures to show up, then have to decide if I want one. Might be great with a more sturdy cable as well..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please let us know how the HR-1000 sounds. I hear that the HR-910 is a bit like an SR-X III._

 

You will get a full written report with pictures.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. I'll speak to Fang before I order mine as I'd like to have it customized to take a larger cable. I'll also wait to see what the new version looks like. 



 The Denon is still in CA but I should get it soon. The wait is killing me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Indra is a very, very nice cable but I like my own design better when I factor in the price... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are much better then most of the competition and are so relaxed and easy going. 

Read this for a comparison between the ultra high tech cables and those that don't believe in synthetic dielectrics. I know it's 6moons but they have to do something right, eventually..._

 

Thanks for the tip. I will read the review. I still have both 'nads. The Indra dealer is willing to let me leave a deposit and audition several cables, all expensive, of course............
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




....what I get for investing so much, I suppose.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tip. I will read the review. I still have both 'nads. The Indra dealer is willing to let me leave a deposit and audition several cables, all expensive, of course............
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




....what I get for investing so much, I suppose._

 

This does make me glad to be off the cable upgrade train. DIY all the way and it has never been cheaper. The other added benefit of DIY wiring is that you can have the same wire inside the chassis as is outside as well as hardwiring AC and speaker cables saving a fortune in connectors that only degrade the sound.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tips, Edstrelow, I believe I have everything but the contact enhancer.

 Tomorrow I will receive the adapter and will start listening! Unfortunately
 I have to send in my NAD C542 for repair so I won't really be giving the 404/313 setup the best source I can until it returns.

 On that topic.....

 Do you all think the C542 will be sufficient or is there another source out there which would completely trounce it for say....$500?

 Or alternately, use the 542 as a transport and upgrade with an external dac?_

 

Do yourself a favor and look for an old Cambridge D300 (used) - and the rest of the line might be just as good or better (D300SE, D500, D500SE). It's very cheap, about 100USD used, and paired with a cheap, warm, punchy DIY interconnect with lively midrange and smooth treble I prefered it to the Apogee Mini-Dac and Lavry DA10 for my 3030 Stax combo. Might just as well not suit your tastes, but it's really worth trying IMHO, especially considering the price...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will get a full written report with pictures._

 

That would be great, can't wait to see what you think.


----------



## Capunk

Need suggestions here, 

 Does getting "Stax SR-404" with " Stax SRM-323A" is significantly upgrade over "Stax 3050A" system? There is $150 USD price differences between those two combo.


----------



## spritzer

I assembled some headphone stands today that I've been making so it's time for a picture of a part of the collection. Now I only need some 20 extra stands... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Click for a larger one

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be great, can't wait to see what you think.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I can't wait to get them. I also bought a Sony ECR400 for 40$ and am fighting some Japanese collectors for other rare ESP's. I should have done this a long time ago. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need suggestions here, 

 Does getting "Stax SR-404" with " Stax SRM-323A" is significantly upgrade over "Stax 3050A" system? There is $150 USD price differences between those two combo._

 

It's not really worth the price hike so stick with the SR-303


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assembled some headphone stands today that I've been making so it's time for a picture of a part of the collection. Now I only need some 20 extra stands... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 NICE!


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I assembled some headphone stands today that I've been making so it's time for a picture of a part of the collection. Now I only need some 20 extra stands.. 
 

Hehe very nice,
 I did exactly the same thing today, only mine heaphone stand is not finished yet (glue is drying at this moment..)


----------



## Vaughn

Has anyone used the current Stax extension cables?

 Do they degrade sound quality in any way?


----------



## spritzer

The wood I used was destined for the fireplace so they aren't all the exact same size but roughly about 28-30cm tall and the bases are 12*12cm. The top part is mahogany and the bottom is oak with three coats of oil. They were all done by hand so the only power tool used was the drill press. When I do make more I'll use a router to to do the rounded corners as it is way too much work to do it by hand. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 NICE!_

 

I try...


----------



## Fungi

Haha, looks like someone's going to have to put up a STAX sign pretty soon.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fungi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha, looks like someone's going to have to put up a STAX sign pretty soon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you look carefully he has a Stax sign there


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used the current Stax extension cables?

 Do they degrade sound quality in any way?_

 

I was using one of the older, round types of extension cable (16ft/5m) and spent a small fortune getting one of the new, flat types (also 16ft/5m). Result? A very noticeable improvement in sound quality. I was very happy, until I took the new extension cable out and plugged my SR-404s directly into the amp. Result? A similar improvement in sound quality, again!

 So, I have to conclude that, sadly, the cables (even the new, flat ones) DO degrade the sound, BUT, I continue to use mine as the distance between the amp and my armchair is about 3.5m, and I'm too old to spend my listening time lying on the floor next to the hi-fi! (I have subsequently wondered if the 8ft/2.5 cable might be less deleterious, but it's too pricey to risk it!)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used the current Stax extension cables?

 Do they degrade sound quality in any way?_

 

I sometimes use an SRE-750 with my 'phones.
 Have not performed any ABX tests, but can't say I have noticed any degrading using it compared to hooking the 'phone directly to the amplifier.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fungi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha, looks like someone's going to have to put up a STAX sign pretty soon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Check out the middle shelf...


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I have to conclude that, sadly, the cables (even the new, flat ones) DO degrade the sound, BUT, I continue to use mine as the distance between the amp and my armchair is about 3.5m, and I'm too old to spend my listening time lying on the floor next to the hi-fi!_

 

Move the armchair?

 (This message courtesy of TEAM BUDGET SOLUTIONS)


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Move the armchair?

 (This message courtesy of TEAM BUDGET SOLUTIONS)_

 

Fine, if I wanted to get a two double ruptures and a hernia every time I wanted to spin up a record!


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fine, if I wanted to get a two double ruptures and a hernia every time I wanted to spin up a record!_

 

Surely there must be some other way to arrange the equipment and furniture so that the two can be closer together-- or are you so old that you can no longer stand to have anything moved around anymore either? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How about a Stax amp and headphone stand next to the armchair? Or if it's a wingback chair, you could build a flip-down Sennheiser Surrounder into the wings, like so:


----------



## Vaughn

I am considering whether it is worth it to have a separate source for my Stax setup as my listening position is about 12 feet from the "main rig", rather than use an extension cable. Maybe I have gone completely off of the deep end.......


----------



## Fungi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you look carefully he has a Stax sign there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out the middle shelf... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Haha, it was so obvious I kind of missed it.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely there must be some other way to arrange the equipment and furniture so that the two can be closer together-- or are you so old that you can no longer stand to have anything moved around anymore either? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How about a Stax amp and headphone stand next to the armchair? Or if it's a wingback chair, you could build a flip-down Sennheiser Surrounder into the wings, like so:



_

 

Thanks for the (very helpful) suggestions, but, d'you know what?, I'll live with the extension cable!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am considering whether it is worth it to have a separate source for my Stax setup as my listening position is about 12 feet from the "main rig", rather than use an extension cable. Maybe I have gone completely off of the deep end......._

 

Separate sources for speaker and headphone rigs is the way to go!


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assembled some headphone stands today that I've been making so it's time for a picture of a part of the collection. Now I only need some 20 extra stands... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Click for a larger one_

 

That's very nice. Do have a HD650 head band on the HE60?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's very nice. Do have a HD650 head band on the HE60?_

 

It's the stock headpad but I removed all of the vinyl covering from it. Much, much more comfortable.


----------



## Michgelsen

Are you bald then? I don't feel a difference between a vinyl head band or a HD650 head band to be honest.
 On the other hand, if it starts flaking it might be better to remove all of it instead of having to get all the pieces out of your hear everytime...

 That Stax sign totally rocks BTW!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you bald then? I don't feel a difference between a vinyl head band or a HD650 head band to be honest.
 On the other hand, if it starts flaking it might be better to remove all of it instead of having to get all the pieces out of your hear everytime...

 That Stax sign totally rocks BTW! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

It had started to flake so I removed it all. It is much better for since my head is enormous and the pad is less stiff with the vinyl removed. 

 The sign seals the deal...


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* 
_Separate sources for speaker and headphone rigs is the way to go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

In fact, do what I do and have a separate setup for each chair, bathroom, kitchen and one for each side of the bed! You're never alone when you have enough audio gear!

 Slow underdamped dynamics make good bed 'phones. For the sunny spot in the living room, something quick and active and cerebral like an SR-X. Orthodynamics in the kitchen because they thrive on airborne grease. And so on. Then, amps to match.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In fact, do what I do and have a separate setup for each chair, bathroom, kitchen and one for each side of the bed! You're never alone when you have enough audio gear!_

 

In fact, thats pretty much what I already have. Three individual systems placed in strategic locations, with separate sources..


----------



## Vaughn

Well, I am still trying to put together one really good system!!!

 Maybe then I can branch out......


 I know what you mean though, my HD650 and 336i combo was perfect for napping


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In fact, thats pretty much what I already have. Three individual systems placed in strategic locations, with separate sources.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

show us the toilet rig!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It had started to flake so I removed it all. It is much better for since my head is enormous and the pad is less stiff with the vinyl removed. 

 The sign seals the deal... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I see. Does the HD650 band fit the HE60?


----------



## Vaughn

SRM-T1 on the way!!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_show us the toilet rig!_

 

Usually just an iPod nano with iBuds. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So nothing to show off really.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRM-T1 on the way!!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice! I am sure you will be pleased with the SRM-T1 / SR-404 system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Enjoy!


----------



## Audio-Omega

Does SR-007MK2 come with good build quality ?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audio-Omega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does SR-007MK2 come with good build quality ?_

 

Great! As good as SR-007.


----------



## EYEdROP

Are there any older stax setups I can get that will sound as good or better than my Alessandro MS-1's for ~$200-$300? I saw a pair of STAX SR80 and an amp go for $75, but it was too late. Ive heard some of the 70's STAX dont sound that good compared to newer Grado's. Perhaps a setup from the 80's?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I got a Stax SR-5 gold edition with SRD6 for $180 shipped, and it blows away my MS-1 and HD600. This is mid 70's technology and I was totally blown away by the unexpected sound quality, bass and detail.

 I have an SR-3 with SRD4 (?) on the way for $150 shipped which I am sure will do the same.

 I think the SRD-X is another sub $200 vintage with transformer that should be better.

 I don't know about the SR-30, 40 or 80.


----------



## Comfy

My 1979 SR-Lambdas (through an SRD-7 energizer, fed by a NAD T743 receiver, fed by a Lavry DA10) are much more accurate, detailed, fast and overall better than a pair of out-of-the-box 2007 Grado RS-1's through the Lavry DA10's headphone out.

 I wouldn't say age has got nothing to do with anything. Electrostatic technology is much more advanced than dynamic technology, regardless of the age of the particular product...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In fact, do what I do and have a separate setup for each chair, bathroom, kitchen and one for each side of the bed! You're never alone when you have enough audio gear!

 Slow underdamped dynamics make good bed 'phones. For the sunny spot in the living room, something quick and active and cerebral like an SR-X. Orthodynamics in the kitchen because they thrive on airborne grease. And so on. Then, amps to match._

 

You can never have too many systems. I have about 6 in total and one in the families summer house. Right now I'm planning the vintage system with my second SRA-3S as a center piece. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see. Does the HD650 band fit the HE60?_

 

I haven't tried it yet but I believe it will.


----------



## milkpowder

Page three?! What has the world come to?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The left driver needed a clean up today and I took the opportunity to take some photos.


----------



## Michgelsen

Cool! I don't have the guts to open mine up but always wondered what it looks like. Interesting. Is that black stuff in the second photo the dust cover?


----------



## milkpowder

Yup. The lateral, outwards facing dust cover can be removed whereas the inner one is glued onto the inner stator.


----------



## spritzer

One tidbit of information is that the only metal in the drivers are the solder lugs, the rest is all conductive paint. Who says injection molded plastic can't sound good...


----------



## EYEdROP

Is there anyone that has STAX and live in the prescott arizona area? Id love to hear a pair.


----------



## Gradofan2

Who are the "Stax Experts" here?

 I've been thinking I might try some Stax phones to see how they compare to the HD600s, RS-1s, and AD2000s - my reference phones - these are all great! And Maggie MGIIIs in whatever version are my reference speakers.

 I know nothing about Stax phones and set ups - but, after reading the 6 Moons review I've sort of focused on this set up:

Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products

Untitled Document

 I also found this 6 Moons review, which suggests the SRS-3030 may actually be the "sweet spot" of the line.

6moons audio reviews: STAX*3030 vs 4040 systems

 Will I notice a distinct improvement from my reference phones with a good set up... or is it more of the 5-10% variety? Is so, what kinds of improvements?

 Is the SRS-4040 set up a good "value price point," or the "sweet spot" - where you get most of the best Stax sound for a reasonable price - or, if that's actually the SRS-3030 set up?

 I'm not patient enough to look for older set ups in good condition - so don't send me down that path.

 I would just like to know... if there's really that much difference between dynamic phones and Stax... and what is the "best value" Stax set up.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Page three?! What has the world come to?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The left driver needed a clean up today and I took the opportunity to take some photos.

http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/2...024x768gd3.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4...024x768hd2.jpg
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1...024x768ip3.jpg_

 

Cool!
 Looks like they are fairly easy to take apart. But I am worried about all those bolts and nuts. Plastic, are they?

 Thanks for sharing the pictures.


----------



## Comfy

To Gradofan2:
 I'm so far from being a Stax Expert in a thread full of Stax Experts, that I'll refrain from making recommendations, but I wanted to congratulate you on a wise move.

 I just recently sold my HD650's and RS-1's, because I fell in love with a pair of old SR-Lambdas. There is much goodness in the electrostatic way. Enjoy the ride.


----------



## krmathis

Gradofan2. I don't claim to be an expert either.
 But imo the SRS-3050A (SR-303 and SRM-323A) are the sweat spot when it comes to new Stax systems. It can be had for $850 from PriceJapan, and will give you a great entry into the Stax world, for a fair amount of money. 

 There sure are differences between dynamic and electrostatic headphones, sound wise. Some like the Stax sound, while other like the dynamic one. Hard to make a statement, but it seems like those who try a Stax really like what they hear. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Perhaps you can audition a Stax before deciding? A local store, Head-Fi'er, ...


----------



## tk3

Any opinions on the Woo GES with OII?
 Did a search, but seems that the consensus is that the stock unit is better than the STAX amps, but could be much better with upgrades, but not much user experiences beyond that.

 I had some communication with Jack, and he told me that these parts were available for upgrade:

_AURICAP 0.22u/400V
 AURICAP 2u/600V
 Mills-mra12 82k/12W
 Mills-mra12 47k/12W
 Mills-mra5 2.2k/5W
 Mills-mrc50 300/50W_

 He quoted $4xx for the lot of them, which seems somewhat expensive when just looking at the parts cost, but who knows what he is doing with them.

 Is there any reason that this amp doesn't have XLR inputs?


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Is there any reason that this amp doesn't have XLR inputs?_

 

I believe because it's not a balanced amp.


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There sure are differences between dynamic and electrostatic headphones, sound wise. Some like the Stax sound, while other like the dynamic one. Hard to make a statement, but it seems like those who try a Stax really like what they hear. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

To me it was like an acquired taste. I've auditioned Stax systems way back, when I was just starting the hobby. And back then, the Grados I compared the Staxes with, sounded much more involving and better for rock music. 
 But now that I've listened to these systems in my home, having owned most of the flagship dynamics under 1000$, I've come to appreciate resolution, speed and fidelity much more than euphonic coloration (be it Grado punch, be it Sennheiser warmth and smoothness). And that is where Stax delivers.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any reason that this amp doesn't have XLR inputs?_

 

The GES is a single ended construction, and hence there are no need for XLR inputs.


----------



## tk3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The GES is a single ended construction, and hence there are no need for XLR inputs._

 

Educate me on this, I thought I read somewhere that all electrostatic amplifiers were balanced by nature.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gradofan2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who are the "Stax Experts" here?

 I've been thinking I might try some Stax phones to see how they compare to the HD600s, RS-1s, and AD2000s - my reference phones - these are all great! And Maggie MGIIIs in whatever version are my reference speakers.

 I know nothing about Stax phones and set ups - but, after reading the 6 Moons review I've sort of focused on this set up:

Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products

Untitled Document

 I also found this 6 Moons review, which suggests the SRS-3030 may actually be the "sweet spot" of the line.

6moons audio reviews: STAX*3030 vs 4040 systems

 Will I notice a distinct improvement from my reference phones with a good set up... or is it more of the 5-10% variety? Is so, what kinds of improvements?

 Is the SRS-4040 set up a good "value price point," or the "sweet spot" - where you get most of the best Stax sound for a reasonable price - or, if that's actually the SRS-3030 set up?

 I'm not patient enough to look for older set ups in good condition - so don't send me down that path.

 I would just like to know... if there's really that much difference between dynamic phones and Stax... and what is the "best value" Stax set up._

 

If money is not an issue here, I would go with the 404 system, because it has the potential for better definition. I find this pays off in the long term so that you will not feel the need for upgrades. However the other set-up is no slouch. 

 I don't trust the 6 moons reviewer because he doesn't do much headphone listening, or at least its not his main source. I have had several people tell me about the wonderful phones they have bought, except that they don't actually listen to them much. I would rather hear from someone who really uses a set a lot. That tells a lot more about what it is really like to have such a set, namely that they are good enough to make you want to use them.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Educate me on this, I thought I read somewhere that all electrostatic amplifiers were balanced by nature._

 

I don't claim to be an expert on the area, so correct me if I am wrong.
 But from what I understand balanced amplifiers are in real two stereo amplifiers in one. With one normal polarity (hot), one inverted polarity (cold) and a chassis ground for each channel. Hence the need of a 3 pin input connector (XLR) to accept the balanced signal from the source, to amplify, and bring further down to the transducer.

 While a single ended amplifier only have one normal polarity and a chassis ground for each channel, and hence just need a 2 pin input connector (RCA).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Educate me on this, I thought I read somewhere that all electrostatic amplifiers were balanced by nature._

 

The Woo GES is based on a Kevin Gilmore design that uses a single ended front end followed by a phase splitter driving a balanced driver and output stage in classic tube design. He probably made it SE input to keep the design simple.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If money is not an issue here, I would go with the 404 system, because it has the potential for better definition. I find this pays off in the long term so that you will not feel the need for upgrades. However the other set-up is no slouch. 

 I don't trust the 6 moons reviewer because he doesn't do much headphone listening, or at least its not his main source. I have had several people tell me about the wonderful phones they have bought, except that they don't actually listen to them much. I would rather hear from someone who really uses a set a lot. That tells a lot more about what it is really like to have such a set, namely that they are good enough to make you want to use them._

 

So... then... what about the amp? Which one... the tube version, or SS version? The 6 Moons reviewer also suggested the SS was better with the 303s. 

 I prefer the warmer, organic sound of tube amps to colder sound of most SS amps... but... which one most complements the Stax phones. Do they need the tube warmth to avoid stridency and leaness?


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gradofan2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who are the "Stax Experts" here?_

 

We are all Stax experts here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gradofan2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just like to know... if there's really that much difference between dynamic phones and Stax... and what is the "best value" Stax set up._

 

Get thee to a meet - hear it for yourself. The Stax path is no different than the dynamic - it won't matter where you start. Sorry about your thin... er, wallett. There is darn little difference in the upper end KGSS and Blue Hawaii, so this won't be your main concern initially - you just need an amp that has enough power, whether SS or tubed. I have heard both extensively, and the better each is, the less differences you will hear. There are no cheapie electrostatic amps, so the cliches that are prevalent in dynamic amps are simply less so in electrostatics, especially the balanced ones.


----------



## Downrange

Or... you could save your $$$$ and pick up a used 2020 or new 2050 system from 1/3 to half the price! I'll never sell mine - it's that good!

 You're just gonna buy the O2s some day anyway, so save some toward that future purchase!


----------



## EYEdROP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or... you could save your $$$$ and pick up a used 2020 or new 2050 system from 1/3 to half the price! I'll never sell mine - it's that good!

 You're just gonna buy the O2s some day anyway, so save some toward that future purchase! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I long for your 2020 system! It will probably be my next step up from these MS-1's, which dont seem as amazing to me anymore. Well, they are still amazing. But I know there is better (which was hard to belive when I first got the MS1's).


----------



## krmathis

Downrange;3752589 said:
			
		

> Or... you could save your $$$$ and pick up a used 2020 or new 2050 system from 1/3 to half the price! I'll never sell mine - it's that good![/]Yes, thats certainly an alternative.
> The 2020 and 2050 are great little systems. Not quite on par with the 3030 and 3050 systems, but they have a noticeable lower price tag as well.
> 
> Quote:
> ...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gradofan2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So... then... what about the amp? Which one... the tube version, or SS version? The 6 Moons reviewer also suggested the SS was better with the 303s. 

 I prefer the warmer, organic sound of tube amps to colder sound of most SS amps... but... which one most complements the Stax phones. Do they need the tube warmth to avoid stridency and leaness?_

 

I have a variety of Stax transistor amps that I like especially the 717. There is some opinion here that it is better that its replacement the 727. However one of the comments about the 727 is that it has a tube-like sound which may be good for you. The 313 could be good, or its replacement the 313II which has a higher driving voltage (not to be confused with bias voltage.) 

 If you are a tube person then you should probably follow your preferences. I would just go with the best amp you can get on your budget. Then you will be able to happily drive anything you get, including the very expensive Omega series if you end up there.

 At any rate, I think at about 1/4 the price of an O2, the 404 is a great bargain in this field.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any opinions on the Woo GES with OII?
 Did a search, but seems that the consensus is that the stock unit is better than the STAX amps, but could be much better with upgrades, but not much user experiences beyond that.

 I had some communication with Jack, and he told me that these parts were available for upgrade:

AURICAP 0.22u/400V
 AURICAP 2u/600V
 Mills-mra12 82k/12W
 Mills-mra12 47k/12W
 Mills-mra5 2.2k/5W
 Mills-mrc50 300/50W

 He quoted $4xx for the lot of them, which seems somewhat expensive when just looking at the parts cost, but who knows what he is doing with them.

 Is there any reason that this amp doesn't have XLR inputs?_

 

The amp needs a lot of capacitors (see the schematic on Headwize) so the cost really adds up. The Auricap is quite a bit better then the stock ones but far from the best. The Mills resistors are also on the expensive side but should be a worthwhile upgrade. I would also upgrade the wiring and input jacks but the caps have the biggest impact on the sound. 

 As others have pointed out the GES has a single ended input stage but it can be converted to balanced state with more tubes. I can't see any reason for doing so but this whole balanced craze isn't based on reason.


----------



## Faust2D

I had less time to write in this thread because I was busy and when I was not busy I was listening to music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a little update after owning Stax system for sometime now, for everyone who is interested. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have being listening to my SR-303 now for sometime and I am starting to like them more than SR-Lambda for most of my music. 

 However I am surpriced how well original Lambda is holding up. In my opinion it's a much better headphone than highly regarded SR-X Mk3 or other cheap stats that I heard so far. Old Koss, Superex and Magnavox don't stand a chance. I am not even talking about my dynamic headphones here, although Float 2 and QP85 have their unique charm and strength overall they can't touch the SR-Lambda. HD600 and K340 have a lot good things going for them but at the end for me they fail to sound as good as lambda, the soundstage and speed are just not there for HD600 and K340 sounds to midrangy and reverby. When compared to SR-303 it's that last level of details and dynamic range that SR-Lambda does not have, but the midrange is a bit more fluid and sweet on the SR-Lambda; SR-303's midrange is flatter and colder, not a bad thing and seems more accurate but somehow less inviting then low bias Lambda. My listening is mostly done with SRM-1/Mk2 pro and sometimes SRD-6SB. In the future I am hoping to do some comparisons using my, now in design stages, custom tube amp. It will probably be based on GU50 tubes running in triode class A mode, full tube design with separate tube power supply using another GU50. But it's still at least a few month before the prototype is ready.


----------



## Comfy

Thanks for the impressions, Faust2D.
 I received an SRM-1 Mk2 for my SR-Lambdas today, and am pretty impressed with the combo. It's all very coherent and immediate. The SRM-1 has no trouble whatsoever in handling the SR-Lambdas, and as a result the bass response is pretty amazing. There is also a level of resolution that I hadn't experienced ever before. Especially the echoes are mindblowing in some recordings.
 The SRM-1 is a big improvement over using my SRD-7/SB to drive the 'stats.

 It's good to hear that SR-303 is not _so_ much better in all aspects, as I'm planning this upgrade at some point. Guess I'm not in _that_ much of a hurry.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the impressions, Faust2D.
 I received an SRM-1 Mk2 for my SR-Lambdas today, and am pretty impressed with the combo. It's all very coherent and immediate. The SRM-1 has no trouble whatsoever in handling the SR-Lambdas, and as a result the bass response is pretty amazing. There is also a level of resolution that I hadn't experienced ever before. Especially the echoes are mindblowing in some recordings.
 The SRM-1 is a big improvement over using my SRD-7/SB to drive the 'stats.

 It's good to hear that SR-303 is not so much better in all aspects, as I'm planning this upgrade at some point. Guess I'm not in that much of a hurry._

 

I posted those exact same impressions after I bought an SRM1 Mk2 Pro to replace my SRD-X as my main stat amp. Glad you like it too!


----------



## fpsoft1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have being listening to my SR-303 now for sometime and I am starting to like them more than SR-Lambda for most of my music._

 

Hi, i've seen that you own (or have owned) an HD600. Actually i have an HD600 too (attached to a t-amp - please forgive me) and i was evaluating buying a 3030 system. Is the upgrade worth the price? I've never heard an electrostatic headphone in my life (i'm 42 and i listen only through headphone since i was 10 years old). Need suggestions. Thanks.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I received an SRM-1 Mk2 for my SR-Lambdas today, and am pretty impressed with the combo. It's all very coherent and immediate. The SRM-1 has no trouble whatsoever in handling the SR-Lambdas, and as a result the bass response is pretty amazing. There is also a level of resolution that I hadn't experienced ever before. Especially the echoes are mindblowing in some recordings.
 The SRM-1 is a big improvement over using my SRD-7/SB to drive the 'stats.

 It's good to hear that SR-303 is not so much better in all aspects, as I'm planning this upgrade at some point. Guess I'm not in that much of a hurry. 
 

Man, you make me regret selling mine
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 ISR-303's midrange is flatter and colder, not a bad thing and seems more accurate but somehow less inviting then low bias Lambda. 
 

I think this is a characteristic of most of the older Lambda's vs the newer ones. I experience the same with my Lambda pro classic vs the SR-303
 The pro classic also has a more profound bass. The SR-303 needs to grow on you.
 I would give the


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, i've seen that you own (or have owned) an HD600. Actually i have an HD600 too (attached to a t-amp - please forgive me) and i was evaluating buying a 3030 system. Is the upgrade worth the price? I've never heard an electrostatic headphone in my life (i'm 42 and i listen only through headphone since i was 10 years old). Need suggestions. Thanks._

 

Haven't been in the exact same situation, but I recently sold my HD-650's, as I couldn't be happier with my SRM-1 + SR-Lambda setup (which is like the 3030 system from 20 years ago, more or less). Of course it's a matter of preferences, but to my ears, the electrostatic rig is far superior.

 I would definitely recommend trying the electrostatic way.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, i've seen that you own (or have owned) an HD600. Actually i have an HD600 too (attached to a t-amp - please forgive me) and i was evaluating buying a 3030 system. Is the upgrade worth the price? I've never heard an electrostatic headphone in my life (i'm 42 and i listen only through headphone since i was 10 years old). Need suggestions. Thanks._

 

This may depend on what music you like. I feel stats are best with classical music where their ability to extract detail can make the details of things like symphonic music and opera more intelligible. Chamber music can be sweet too. 

 Also the better your supporting equipment, the more you are likely to be able to realize what the stats can do. So buying stats is often the start of upgraditis.

 On the other hand, some rock/pop can sound bad on stats which have a lot of treble because these recordings often have a hyped up treble. On the other hand not all stats are treble beasts including the 02, SR001/003 and the old Sigma, pro or low bias.


----------



## spritzer

I listen mostly to rock on my stats and the treble spikes aren't a problem for me. The phones are brutally revealing but all electrostatics have this inherent musicality that makes even bad recordings ok to listen to. The music isn't forced at you like with dynamics, it just hangs there.


----------



## fpsoft1

Thanks for the answers. I listen only rock-pop-disco music (Bran Van 3000, Smiths, Soft Cell) so the electrostatic way (i think) is not the exact "spouse" to this genre. But i'm a "treble" fan (my 16khz slider is always at + 10) so i think i'll be fine with an electrostatic anyway. My problem is that i can't try the 3030 before buying it, because in my town (Bari - Italy) no one has it. I should do some hundred miles to listen it, so i have to buy it without listening it before, that's why i wanted some "comfort" from you. Thanks.


----------



## Comfy

I mostly listen to rock music too, and I much prefer the SR-Lambdas to most dynamics I've had (RS-1, MS-Pro, RS-2, HD-650, W5000, K701 to name the more expensive ones). The only dynamic that I think could compete would be the K1000, but the K1000 has some issues of it's own (price, the need for mega-ampage, massive sound leakage, not-being-an-electrostat).

 Basically I feel that while all dynamics colour the sound in some way (thus making some cans better for rock, and some better for other stuff), that at least my electrostats don't have a sonic imprint, and that what I hear are the recordings as they were recorded. So if you don't like Hand of Fate by The Rolling Stones with 'stats, it's because you don't like Hand of Fate by The Rolling Stones. And so on. I personally love the song, and I've never heard it any better than with my current rig. Not even in the days of my dynamic pinnacle, with huge black powdercoated tube amps feeding wooden headphones.

 And yeah, even classical sounds mildly interesting with 'stats, which was an eye-opener for me.


----------



## fpsoft1

Thanks. Another question: i love listening on a (very very) high volume. Are there some problems with electrostatic using them at a very high volume?


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Another question: i love listening on a (very very) high volume. Are there some problems with electrostatic using them at a very high volume?_

 

Yes. You'll lose your hearing eventually. 
 As for the electrostats, they go louder than any dynamic with no problems whatsoever. 
 Be careful. Once your hearing is lost, there are no ways to get it back. And after that it's just silence and the sweet sound of tinnitus.


----------



## fpsoft1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be careful. Once your hearing is lost, there are no ways to get it back._

 

Thanks for the advice, i'll be careful (as much as i can).


----------



## Comfy

And if you have to listen to very, very loud volumes, do it in short intervals and have breaks often. 
 Here is a table that shows the importance of exposure time: 

 Continuous dB / Permissible Exposure Time

 85 dB: 8 hours
 88 dB: 4 hours
 91 dB: 2 hours
 94 dB: 1 hour
 97 dB: 30 minutes
 100 dB: 15 minutes
 103 dB: 7.5 minutes
 106 dB: 3.75 min (< 4min)
 109 dB: 1.875 min (< 2min)
 112 dB: .9375 min (~1 min)
 115 dB: .46875 min (~30 sec)


----------



## bralk

Hi Comfy

 Interesting table:

 Can you quote the source ?

 Kind regards

 Tom


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, i've seen that you own (or have owned) an HD600. Actually i have an HD600 too (attached to a t-amp - please forgive me) and i was evaluating buying a 3030 system. Is the upgrade worth the price? I've never heard an electrostatic headphone in my life (i'm 42 and i listen only through headphone since i was 10 years old). Need suggestions. Thanks._

 

My HD600 were much slower and darker. Lambdas were a big improvement and in general are more enjoyable in all respects. If you like a lot of slam in your bass you might have a problem adjusting to them, try they first.


----------



## milkpowder

Just received my SR-Lambda Pros... It's in superb condition. I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?

 Sound-wise, the Lambda Pros are incredible. The tonal balance is more neutral vs the treble-orientated HE60. Sure, it's not quite as detailed or transparent, but IMO much more natural sounding. Having owned the SR-404 before, the Lambda Pros are less detailed but more euphoric. There's a sort of warmth to the sound which makes for a much more laid-back, relaxed listen. The bass extension is also miles better than the HE60. Now I can actually enjoy my Dire Straits! I'm *very* satisfied
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the normal bias Lambda is even more euphoric, colour me interested... Are either the SR-Lambda or SR-404 bassier than th SR-Lambda Pro?


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting table:

 Can you quote the source ?_

 

Sure, here:

Dangerous Decibels: About Hearing Loss


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my SR-Lambda Pros... It's in superb condition. I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?

 Sound-wise, the Lambda Pros are incredible. The tonal balance is more neutral vs the treble-orientated HE60. Sure, it's not quite as detailed or transparent, but IMO much more natural sounding. Having owned the SR-404 before, the Lambda Pros are less detailed but more euphoric. There's a sort of warmth to the sound which makes for a much more laid-back, relaxed listen. The bass extension is also miles better than the HE60. Now I can actually enjoy my Dire Straits! I'm *very* satisfied
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the normal bias Lambda is even more euphoric, colour me interested... Are either the SR-Lambda or SR-404 bassier than th SR-Lambda Pro?_

 

It's hard to compare a normal Lambda Pro vs. one with no wool but I believe Kai has one each. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 With the SR-Lambda the difference is quite noticeable and I prefer the open backed version.


----------



## jp11801

also remember that if you alreasy have hearing damage you can do more with less time than is listed below. It's not a bad $40 investment to get a radio shack db meter to give yourself a rough idea of how loud is loud. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And if you have to listen to very, very loud volumes, do it in short intervals and have breaks often. 
 Here is a table that shows the importance of exposure time: 

 Continuous dB / Permissible Exposure Time

 85 dB: 8 hours
 88 dB: 4 hours
 91 dB: 2 hours
 94 dB: 1 hour
 97 dB: 30 minutes
 100 dB: 15 minutes
 103 dB: 7.5 minutes
 106 dB: 3.75 min (< 4min)
 109 dB: 1.875 min (< 2min)
 112 dB: .9375 min (~1 min)
 115 dB: .46875 min (~30 sec)_


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my SR-Lambda Pros... It's in superb condition. I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?_

 

Congratulations with your "new" SR-Lambda Pro. Its certainly a nice pair of headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As Birgir pointed out I have one of each (damped vs. not damped). 
 The difference is quite noticeable. The open one are more responsive and have a more open sound stage. It feels more neutral as well, as the midrange "problem" don't stick out that much.
 I prefer my undamped one. So I am sure you don't loose out on anything.
 Enjoy!


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?_

 

If you want to be 100% sure, I can always sell you the mineral wool inserts of my Lambdas. But please note that even empty Stax boxes are highly sought after items in today's eBay world. Maybe a direct trade for your HE60, now that you don't love 'em anymore?


----------



## milkpowder

I have a very serious problem, I think my Lambda Pro channels are reversed
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The wider side of the earspeaker is supposed to be in front and the widest side of the earpads is supposed to be at the back right? Oh dear, what can I do?

 As good as the Lambda Pro is, the HE60 still edges ahead because it is so much more resolving, transparent and captures the "air" of the recording better. There is a greater sense of the reverberations. Too bad about the bass. Anyhow, the HE60 is technically superior, but I can't say it is necessarily more enjoyable.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Actually, I'm pretty darn sure the channels are reversed. The stators themselves are marked L & R and they're reversed. How do you take apart the earspeakers?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want to be 100% sure, I can always sell you the mineral wool inserts of my Lambdas. But please note that even empty Stax boxes are highly sought after items in today's eBay world. Maybe a direct trade for your HE60, now that you don't love 'em anymore? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I have an even better deal to offer.
 He can have my second SR-Lambda Pro pair, with backwave damping (so he can compare himself) and new earpads. For a direct trade with the HE60's...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a very serious problem, I think my Lambda Pro channels are reversed
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The wider side of the earspeaker is supposed to be in front and the widest side of the earpads is supposed to be at the back right? Oh dear, what can I do?_

 

Correct, the wide part of the easpeaker chassis are supposed to be in front.
 I am quite sure I know what happened. When the previous (?) owner removed the damping he mixed up the left/right chassis and drivers.

 The only way to fix this are to open both sides and rotate, so the left driver are in the left cup and so on.

 Edit:
 If you are careful you can bend up each corner of the earpads, without ripping them, to reach the screw in each corner with a small screwdriver. Then rotate and mount the parts again.


----------



## milkpowder

Thanks Kai. I'll get right on it. I'd hate to have to get a new pair of earpads
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Darn! Looks like the stators are glued to the surrounding panel, which means that I'll have to switch the pads too


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a very serious problem, I think my Lambda Pro channels are reversed
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The wider side of the earspeaker is supposed to be in front and the widest side of the earpads is supposed to be at the back right? Oh dear, what can I do?

 As good as the Lambda Pro is, the HE60 still edges ahead because it is so much more resolving, transparent and captures the "air" of the recording better. There is a greater sense of the reverberations. Too bad about the bass. Anyhow, the HE60 is technically superior, but I can't say it is necessarily more enjoyable.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Actually, I'm pretty darn sure the channels are reversed. The stators themselves are marked L & R and they're reversed. How do you take apart the earspeakers?_

 

Is there a solid line going to the left earpiece if so then the channels are correct.


----------



## milkpowder

Solid line is going to the L, but then the L stator is in the right earspeaker!

 EDIT: stators switched, but the earpads are a real biatch to remove. I'll be surprised if they'll be able to be reused.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Solid line is going to the L, but then the L stator is in the right earspeaker!

 EDIT: stators switched, but the earpads are a real biatch to remove. I'll be surprised if they'll be able to be reused._

 

I opened my pair without destroying the earpads.
 The screws are close to the corned of the casing, so I just carefully lifted the earpad corners (with the glue). Then did my work and pushed the earpad corners down again.
 Not 100% perfect, but they are still going strong...


----------



## milkpowder

Well what do you know, I managed to switch the stators _and the earpads_ without damaging anything! They're back in business
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## krmathis

^ Excellent! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit:
 After re-reading your previous posts I now understand your talk about the pads. They were mounted the wrong way as well, and had to be completely removed and moved over to the other side.


----------



## milkpowder

Yup. I was so relieved the pads could be reused (just!).
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm completely in awe at how good the Lambda Pro is. Seriously, new toy hype or not, this gives the HE60 a run for their money. OK, it's definitely not as transparent; switching to the HE60 almost sounds like lifting a veil, but it sounds slightly cold in comparison. On the other hand, the Lambda Pro sounds organic, balanced and natural. Think of it this way, the HE60 is like the K701 and the Lambda Pro a HD650 without the bass bloom (a very loose analogy, don't read too much into it).

 As ken would put it

*[size=large]Good stuff![/size]*


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my SR-Lambda Pros... It's in superb condition. I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?

 Sound-wise, the Lambda Pros are incredible. The tonal balance is more neutral vs the treble-orientated HE60. Sure, it's not quite as detailed or transparent, but IMO much more natural sounding. Having owned the SR-404 before, the Lambda Pros are less detailed but more euphoric. There's a sort of warmth to the sound which makes for a much more laid-back, relaxed listen. The bass extension is also miles better than the HE60. Now I can actually enjoy my Dire Straits! I'm *very* satisfied
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the normal bias Lambda is even more euphoric, colour me interested... Are either the SR-Lambda or SR-404 bassier than th SR-Lambda Pro?_

 

Do you mean euphoric or euphonic? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I find my SR-Lambda have enough bass, but my SR-Lambda Signature have more and I like that "more" than I like "enough".


----------



## milkpowder

Good catch, I suppose _both_!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Kai. I'll get right on it. I'd hate to have to get a new pair of earpads
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Darn! Looks like the stators are glued to the surrounding panel, which means that I'll have to switch the pads too
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Where is that LOL smiley when you need it !!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Solid line is going to the L, but then the L stator is in the right earspeaker!

 EDIT: stators switched, but the earpads are a real biatch to remove. I'll be surprised if they'll be able to be reused._

 

So the solid line was going to the left earpiece? Then the phones were wired correctly as the drivers are identical. Your HE60 isn't reversed as that is easy to do? There are small markings on the cable strain relief.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my SR-Lambda Pros... It's in superb condition. I noticed my Lambda Pros don't have a foam/mesh behind the drivers? Is that a good thing because there's less backwave?

 Sound-wise, the Lambda Pros are incredible. The tonal balance is more neutral vs the treble-orientated HE60. Sure, it's not quite as detailed or transparent, but IMO much more natural sounding. Having owned the SR-404 before, the Lambda Pros are less detailed but more euphoric. There's a sort of warmth to the sound which makes for a much more laid-back, relaxed listen. The bass extension is also miles better than the HE60. Now I can actually enjoy my Dire Straits! I'm *very* satisfied
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the normal bias Lambda is even more euphoric, colour me interested... Are either the SR-Lambda or SR-404 bassier than th SR-Lambda Pro?_

 

The Lambda Pro and the SR-Lambda are my favorites in the series. The SR-Lambda is more even in tonal balance but does not have the dynamics or the bottom end of the Pro. The bass of the Pro is similar to the 303/404 but just a little thicker. The SR-Lambda and Pro have the least amount of the famous Lambda bite in the upper midrange lower treble. The Pro also has the most recessed midrange (OK by me) which makes them easier for people to listen at higher volumes. The 303/404 have too much bite for my taste. Another nice phone to consider is the Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax jack. It is dynamic, good tonal balance, smooth treble and punchy bottom.


----------



## J-Pak

Once long ago turning in my membership after selling the SR-404 (was not a big fan of the sound) I return to the fold with an SR-Lambda


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once long ago turning in my membership after selling the SR-404 (was not a big fan of the sound) I return to the fold with an SR-Lambda 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Welcome Back! What are you using to drive the SR-L?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome Back! What are you using to drive the SR-L?_

 

An SRD-7sb transformer box that will be connected to my B22's speaker taps. Eventually...hopefully KGSS (if I can snag an SR-007 before my speaker rig bankrupts me)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An SRD-7sb transformer box that will be connected to my B22's speaker taps. Eventually...hopefully KGSS (if I can snag an SR-007 before my speaker rig bankrupts me) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Why not put the transformers inside the B22 for a cleaner path...


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once long ago turning in my membership after selling the SR-404 (was not a big fan of the sound) I return to the fold with an SR-Lambda 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Funny, because I defected to Senn for a good part of a year before returning with a pair of vintage goodness too
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess no one can escape the Stax "allure".

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where is that LOL smiley when you need it !! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 Believe me, I panicked a bit because the pads were so difficult to get off. In the end, I used a sharp blade and slowly cut through the sticky tape whilst tugging at the pads. It worked like a treat and because I managed to get most of the sticky tape to stay stuck onto the pads, I could stick them back onto the other earpiece. Felt like a surgeon cutting away at peritoneal/connective tissue
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the solid line was going to the left earpiece? Then the phones were wired correctly as the drivers are identical. Your HE60 isn't reversed as that is easy to do? There are small markings on the cable strain relief._

 

I don't think I was explaining it very well. The solid line went to the left stator, but the left stator was in the right earpiece. I knew this because I played a channel-identifying track from some random test CD. The previous owner(s) must've gotten the stators mixed around when they were defoaming them.

 What I had to do was take the earpieces apart and switch the L/R stators around. Because of the asymmetrical nature of the pads, the bit that usually sticks out at the back now sticks out in front, hence the necessity for a L/R pad swap too.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro and the SR-Lambda are my favorites in the series. The SR-Lambda is more even in tonal balance but does not have the dynamics or the bottom end of the Pro. The bass of the Pro is similar to the 303/404 but just a little thicker. *The SR-Lambda and Pro have the least amount of the famous Lambda bite in the upper midrange lower treble. *The Pro also has the most recessed midrange (OK by me) which makes them easier for people to listen at higher volumes.* The 303/404 have too much bite for my taste. *Another nice phone to consider is the Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax jack. It is dynamic, good tonal balance, smooth treble and punchy bottom._

 

I think so too! The midrange seems so darn smooth on the Lambda Pro and certainly don't "bite" like the 303/404. I think the "bite" is what a lot of people have issue with, describing it as "weird, artificial upper midrange", etc. I also heard that in my SR-404 and it's very noticeable once you know what to listen for. Nevertheless, the SR-404 still sounds the clearest, most detailed and perhaps "airiest" too.


----------



## humanflyz

I used to have a Lambda Pro + SRM-MK2 like a year and half ago, and now I have rejoined the dark side with O2s and KGSS.


----------



## bralk

*Sure, here:

 Dangerous Decibels: About Hearing Loss
*
 Thanks a lot Comfy.
 I will distribute the url to my students.
 Hopefully they will take notice.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro and the SR-Lambda are my favorites in the series. The SR-Lambda is more even in tonal balance but does not have the dynamics or the bottom end of the Pro. The bass of the Pro is similar to the 303/404 but just a little thicker. The SR-Lambda and Pro have the least amount of the famous Lambda bite in the upper midrange lower treble. The Pro also has the most recessed midrange (OK by me) which makes them easier for people to listen at higher volumes. The 303/404 have too much bite for my taste. Another nice phone to consider is the Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax jack. It is dynamic, good tonal balance, smooth treble and punchy bottom._

 

I am begining to like my ESP950 very well with a Stax amp, usually a SRM-3. 
 I haven't done the full cable conversion yet, just using an adapter. After a bit of experimenting with interconnects I found one that mates well with these phones and they are nicely balanced with good bass but not the excessive bassiness of the various lambdas. They have a pleasing neutrality.

 Is there much benefit from changing the cable?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think so too! The midrange seems so darn smooth on the Lambda Pro and certainly don't "bite" like the 303/404. I think the "bite" is what a lot of people have issue with, describing it as "weird, artificial upper midrange", etc. I also heard that in my SR-404 and it's very noticeable once you know what to listen for. Nevertheless, the SR-404 still sounds the clearest, most detailed and perhaps "airiest" too._

 

I find the bite can be tamed by 1) properly warming up the phones and amp, 2) finding a suitable interconnect and 3) using Silclear contact paste. 

 I feel that the bite can add an element of realism to the treble on good recordings, giving the recording more "presence."


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think I was explaining it very well. The solid line went to the left stator, but the left stator was in the right earpiece. I knew this because I played a channel-identifying track from some random test CD. The previous owner(s) must've gotten the stators mixed around when they were defoaming them.

 What I had to do was take the earpieces apart and switch the L/R stators around. Because of the asymmetrical nature of the pads, the bit that usually sticks out at the back now sticks out in front, hence the necessity for a L/R pad swap too._

 

Assuming that the cable isn't constructed the wrong way around (have never heard about a set like that though) then the solid line goes to the left piece because the they are supposed to i.e. the wires carry the L+ and L- are on that side of the cable. Since you heard the L signal in the R side it could be that the rest of the system is switched around. It's impossible to mix it up when replacing the earpads as both drivers are identical and soldered to the cable so they would never be removed so if the cable is correct then the fault must be somewhere else. It's much easier to mix up the earpieces of the Sennheiser HE's and that is why they fitted small markings on the molds.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am begining to like my ESP950 very well with a Stax amp, usually a SRM-3. 
 I haven't done the full cable conversion yet, just using an adapter. After a bit of experimenting with interconnects I found one that mates well with these phones and they are nicely balanced with good bass but not the excessive bassiness of the various lambdas. They have a pleasing neutrality.

 Is there much benefit from changing the cable?_

 

I put the Stax connector on the extension cable (that comes with the unit). I didn't want to modify the cable on the phone because it would void the lifetime warranty. I am on my third set. Koss has been good about replacing my defective units (making squealing noises). My current set is quiet!

 I listen to them on my SRM-717, 007t, T1W & 1 mk2 pro. I like them best with my 717.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once long ago turning in my membership after selling the SR-404 (was not a big fan of the sound) I return to the fold with an SR-Lambda 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Welcome back! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Hopefully you are more fan of the SR-Lambda sound than the SR-404 one.


----------



## Vaughn

I received my SRM-T1 today and have been listening to it with 
 SR-404's ever since(where is the "smiley" for tears of JOY?).

 WOW.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't want to modify the cable on the phone because it would void the lifetime warranty._

 

I seriously doubt this. It is a no questions asked warantee. Just rip the Stax cable off and send it in without a cable, as was recently suggested to me.

 Stax cable is a huge upgrade in my opinion. Much clearer midrange more treble sparkle. Not as much of an upgrade as the 620v bias, which really helps tighten up the bass. Perhaps Carl has some comments in this thread about the cable upgrade?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I seriously doubt this. It is a no questions asked warantee. Just rip the Stax cable off and send it in without a cable, as was recently suggested to me.

 Stax cable is a huge upgrade in my opinion. Much clearer midrange more treble sparkle. Not as much of an upgrade as the 620v bias, which really helps tighten up the bass. Perhaps Carl has some comments in this thread about the cable upgrade?_

 

How do you manage a 620 volt bias upgrade with a Stax amp?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you manage a 620 volt bias upgrade with a Stax amp?_

 

Marc uses a DIY KGSS so adjusting the bias is easy.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Marc uses a DIY KGSS so adjusting the bias is easy._

 

I'm assuming most (if not all) of the stax amps have fixed bias voltages?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm assuming most (if not all) of the stax amps have fixed bias voltages?_

 

Stax srm-t1w has one socket with variable bias voltage.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my SRM-T1 today and have been listening to it with 
 SR-404's ever since(where is the "smiley" for tears of JOY?).

 WOW._

 

Exactly what we like to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 That you really enjoy the SR-404 / SRM-T1.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax srm-t1w has one socket with variable bias voltage._

 

Yup, it is variable between 480-580v.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, it is variable between 480-580v._

 

What was the idea behind that on the stax amp?


----------



## facelvega

theoretical question: is it possible to execute an electrostatic driver with anything other than a planar diaphragm, or one with significantly differential thicknesses? Has anyone ever tried? Obviously spacing would be a huge issue.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_theoretical question: is it possible to execute an electrostatic driver with anything other than a planar diaphragm, or one with significantly differential thicknesses? Has anyone ever tried? Obviously spacing would be a huge issue._

 

Didn't Pickering make a curved electrostatic tweeter that was mechanically damped with what was essentially carpet yarn?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What was the idea behind that on the stax amp?_

 

I have no idea really. Some users might prefer a slightly softer sound so they could lower the bias accordingly. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_theoretical question: is it possible to execute an electrostatic driver with anything other than a planar diaphragm, or one with significantly differential thicknesses? Has anyone ever tried? Obviously spacing would be a huge issue._

 

In theory you could but it wouldn't be feasible. The electrostatic force is really weak so you would need a high (very high really) bias voltage, much higher then the 12kV Sound Lab uses, to move the mass. This becomes tougher as you need a higher drive voltage as well. It would be better to either use some magnetostatic or a planar driver excited by some other means. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't Pickering make a curved electrostatic tweeter that was mechanically damped with what was essentially carpet yarn?_

 

It was something like that. There is a drawing of it in the Quad book as it was included in the original 1955 review. It uses hairs as the suspension network as most ESL's were SE back then even if the superiority of the P-P design was known.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I thought this was important enough to report in this thread too.

 I've posted elsewhere that I think something may have been wrong with my SR-001, because for the first 250 hours it had a dome shaped frequency curve with way too prominent mids, but then between 250-300 hours it started to clean up, and by 350 hours the sound was great, and balanced across the board. The SR-001 sound was bad enough at first that I didn't enjoy listening to it, and absolutely needed the SuperFatCat mod if I were going to keep it. Now I like it so much I am planning to buy another SR-001 so I can have a stock one and a modded SuperFatCat. 

_Nothing else I've had ever showed such a tremendous change with burn-in as did my SR-001 Mk2, so I have to wonder if the cause was a bad part that wasn't working right that finally started to function properly._ 

 So, I got my SR-003 in today. While it doesn't sound anywhere as bad out of the box as my SR-001 Mk2 did, it didn't sound quite as good as my 400+ hour SR-001 Mk2 (SR-001 is still running, but my notes for the running hours are on the other computer). Out of the box the SR-003 has a similar midrange coloration but not to the degree the portable system had at first. I_n this case, I can enjoy the SR-003 right out of the box_, acknowledging that they are not showing neutral tone at this time. This is driving it with a very good amp, my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and letting it charge up for half an hour. It was kinda dull and lifeless when I tried it on low-bias.

 So, I AM burning-in the SR-003 and keeping it running continuously, and will check it again every 24 hours, to see if I can garner more ridicule in the event that I can report in the other thread that it sounds better over time...


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Just a quick uneducated question. Would an SRX MKIII outperform the SR-001 overall? Or are they both better and worse at various things? I've been curious about the vintage stax sound for a while.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I got my SR-003 in today._

 

Congratulations with the newly acquired SR-003. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am sure it will improve with burn-in, and close the gap towards your S-001 MK2.


----------



## The Other Allen

I have the joined the Stax ranks with a SR-001MK2 (office) in December and a 2050II (home) this week. Since there isn't a Cliff Notes version of this War & Peace length thread and the search function hasn't been of much use, I'm asking for some help here.

 Any special instructions regarding burn-in -- can I just play pink noise while the 
 earspeakers sit on the desk?

 Any rule of thumb regarding how long the unit should be on before expecting to get the best sound? I was listening last night and all of sudden there seemed to be a sudden improvement of the sound about 30-45 minutes into the listening session.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The SR-003 sounded more open after just 12 hours to loosen them up, and are only slightly better since the 12 hour point, but they do already sound better than the SR-001 Mk2.

 Clearly the SR-001 amp is holding them back, yet the SR-001 sound is very close to matching a Livewires Custom IEM through a nice portable amp, but at a cost that is half that of the Livewires/dynamic amp.

 I will be doing the Super Fat Cat mod very soon, and then will compare again to my dynamic portable setup, and do a full and long report after that.


----------



## humanflyz




----------



## milkpowder

Super rig!


----------



## Bastet

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Super rig!_

 

Definitely so...I am full of envy right now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Have fun with it and if you have the time: I would love to see a writeup on the capabilities of this great rig!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Clearly the SR-001 amp is holding them back, yet the SR-001 sound is very close to matching a Livewires Custom IEM through a nice portable amp, *but at a cost that is half that of the Livewires/dynamic amp*._

 

The other half of that cost providing the joy of isolation (which is kind of important on public transport where the additional bliss of the SR-001 is swamped by external noise 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 Need a portable isolated electrostatic IEM...and a SuperFatCat modded amp of course.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any special instructions regarding burn-in -- can I just play pink noise while the earspeakers sit on the desk?_

 

Thats one way to do it.
 Or just put them on your head and enjoy some nice music... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any rule of thumb regarding how long the unit should be on before expecting to get the best sound? I was listening last night and all of sudden there seemed to be a sudden improvement of the sound about 30-45 minutes into the listening session._

 

My experience is that they need at least 30 minutes of warming up before they show their full potential. Perhaps even more if the 'phones have been fully discharged.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need a portable isolated electrostatic IEM...and a SuperFatCat modded amp of course. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thats pretty much my dream as well.
 A closed back ear-canal (custom mold?) version of the S-001MK2, matched up with an amplifier that release their full potential.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick uneducated question. Would an SRX MKIII outperform the SR-001 overall? Or are they both better and worse at various things? I've been curious about the vintage stax sound for a while._

 

These are 2 of the most different sounding phones you can get from the same maker. 

 The SRXIII has a very detailed midrange and treble with a somewhat weak bass. The 001/003 has a roll-off from upper mid to treble. The SRX' real strength is that it shows an amazing amount of detail in the mid and upper frequencies. However it can be somewhat harsh. On the other hand it was a popular monitoring phone, probably because of its ability to show details.

 The 001/003 is high bias but runs just about as well on low bias. The SRX is a low bias phone althought there is a pro model as well but which is as scarce as the proverbial hen's teeth. Many people like the 001/003 for how plucked instruments sound. I would say it is more euphonic and listenable than the SRXIII.

 Some people have tried mods to improve the SRXIII including recabling and using different earpads.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The other half of that cost providing the joy of isolation (which is kind of important on public transport where the additional bliss of the SR-001 is swamped by external noise 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 Need a portable isolated electrostatic IEM...and a SuperFatCat modded amp of course. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How much isolation do you want? 
 You can get isolation and better bass by putting on a nice pair of close phones (like the Beyer 770, not plugged in of course), when listening to the baby stax? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 The closed housing provides the isolation, while the well designed Beyer driver diaphragm and rear chamber form a resonace chamber giving you strong clean bass..... kind of like marrying the Beyer and Stax together. And, since the Beyers will prevent the Baby stax from falling out, the 001/003 don't have to be pushed in as hard, there will be a lot less fatigue on the ear canals. Try it and you will like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The best part: it won't degrade sound any more than using the stax head band.....


----------



## DesertInTheShape

stax are sweet and i was lead here because i am a big classical music lover and heard these were good...
 one question-is there any adaptor you can buy to hook these up to a portable unit? okay, more than one question--what's the deal with the amp? do you have to use an amp? or if an adaptor is found could it be used without the amp? thanks.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are 2 of the most different sounding phones you can get from the same maker. 

 The SRXIII has a very detailed midrange and treble with a somewhat weak bass. The 001/003 has a roll-off from upper mid to treble. The SRX real strenght is that it shows an amazing amount of detail in the mid and upper frequencies. However it can be somewhat harsh. On the other hand it was a popular monitoring phone, probably because of its ability to show details.

 The 001/003 is high bias but runs just about as well on low bias. The SRX is a low bias phone althought there is a pro model as well but which is as scarce as the proverbial hen's teeth. Many people like the 001/003 for how plucked instruments sound. I would say it is more euphonic and listenable than the SRXIII.

 Some people have tried mods to improve the SRXIII including recabling and using different earpads._

 

Thanks for the reply. I think I'm craving something more full sized than the SR-001 but with a similar dark sound. So with that in mind I'll probably have to purchase a more recent Stax model as I've heard they are mostly darker now days.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stax are sweet and i was lead here because i am a big classical music lover and heard these were good...
 one question-is there any adaptor you can buy to hook these up to a portable unit? okay, more than one question--what's the deal with the amp? do you have to use an amp? or if an adaptor is found could it be used without the amp? thanks._

 

You can get an old SRD-X transformer box with 1/4" headphone plug as the input, and connect it to your source via the headphone plug, and then connect your full size STAX to the normal bias output, all running on 8 c-cell batteries. The box will act as the amp, and has it's own volume control. And, you can power it with a 12v 500-100ma wall wart (negative tip) to save batteries when not portable. You could even run the mini in-ear SR-003 with one if you had to.

 I bought an SRD-X for myself and one for my son to use with the SR-5 I gave him, and they work fairly well.

 The other option is the portable SR-001 Mk2 system that we've been discussing.


----------



## krmathis

Lost of questions, but I will try to answer al of them.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stax are sweet and i was lead here because i am a big classical music lover and heard these were good...
 one question-is there any adaptor you can buy to hook these up to a portable unit?_

 

The S-001MK2 earphones comes with a portable amplifier (SRM-001), which can be used with portable players. In-The-Ear type Earspeaker system

 There are also the vintage SRD-X and SRD-X Pro, which allow full size Stax 'phones to be used on the move.

 There are no in-production solution for full size Stax though.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape;* 
_what's the deal with the amp?_

 

What deal?
 You talk about the need of an amplifier maybe? Electrostatic 'phones work totally different to dynamic ones, and need a specialized amplifier (or energizer) to work.
 1. Because they need a high voltage audio signal.
 2. Because they need bias voltage.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do you have to use an amp?_

 

Yes, an amplifier in some form are needed.
 Either a dedicated electrostatic amplifier, or a regular speaker amplifier with an energizer like the SRD-7.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or if an adaptor is found could it be used without the amp?_

 

They can't be used without an amplifier. As mentioned above.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks._

 

You're welcome!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply. I think I'm craving something more full sized than the SR-001 but with a similar dark sound. So with that in mind I'll probably have to purchase a more recent Stax model as I've heard they are mostly darker now days._

 

The entire Lambda series sounds nothing like the SR-001/003 series! The Lambda series is noted for a forward, bright, lively, punchy sound. The tonal balance of the Lambda is more like a SR-X with bass. The phone that has the closest tonal balance is the SR-007. I don't mean to say that the 001/003 are in the same league but the balance is closer to the SR-007 compared to the Lambda series.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick uneducated question. Would an SRX MKIII outperform the SR-001 overall? Or are they both better and worse at various things? I've been curious about the vintage stax sound for a while._

 

Though I agree with edstrelow's characterization of the difference between the two, I'd also add that the simple answer to your question is that YES, the SR-X does generally outperform the SR-001. It's not as fun, it doesn't have the bass quantity, but otherwise there is no contest IMO.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply. I think I'm craving something more full sized than the SR-001 but with a similar dark sound. So with that in mind I'll probably have to purchase a more recent Stax model as I've heard they are mostly darker now days._

 

Well, if the SR-007 is a little rich for your blood, how about a Koss ESP-950? If that's still too much, then you could still do very well with an SR-5 or even a 3, which are darker and fuller than the X with a smidge less detail resolution, and are among the cheapest Stax you can possibly find.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply. I think I'm craving something more full sized than the SR-001 but with a similar dark sound. So with that in mind I'll probably have to purchase a more recent Stax model as I've heard they are mostly darker now days._

 

If you like SR-001 I doubt you will like SR-X as much, they are very different and SR-001 does many things better and but does not have that level of refinement and precision. The total balance it also different. I actually like SR-001 better in that regard. I think SR-001 is a better headphone than SR-X in some respects, so for me there is a lot of contest, if Stax SR-5 sounds close to Magnavox stat I had (Stax OEM SR-5) than SR-001 is very competitive with SR-5 and 3 and is better in many ways. But hey, I also think my Lambdas are awesome and lots of folks who like SR-X don't like them. All this talk is making think I got to try SR-007, just to see what I am missing.


----------



## DesertInTheShape

thanks headphone addict and krmathis. 
 i can't believe the price for the
 SR-001 MKII System. (259.99 us dollars at audiocubesII) (can't believe it, as in 1)too good to be true OR 2)they aren't that great)
 how are these?
 i like a warm sound with good bass. (although i listen to mostly classical, i don't like phones or monitors that have too much mid and highs)
 currently listening with ue supef-fi 5 pros and some old sennheisers.
 HEADPHONE ADDICT---you said that this compares to livewires with a small amp?!?!? really?!!
 and what is a super fat cat mod?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks headphone addict and krmathis. 
 i can't believe the price for the
 SR-001 MKII System. (259.99 us dollars at audiocubesII) (can't believe it, as in 1)too good to be true OR 2)they aren't that great)
 how are these?
 i like a warm sound with good bass. (although i listen to mostly classical, i don't like phones or monitors that have too much mid and highs)
 currently listening with ue supef-fi 5 pros and some old sennheisers.
 HEADPHONE ADDICT---you said that this compares to livewires with a small amp?!?!? really?!!
 and what is a super fat cat mod?_

 

It's a good system for the money. I wouldn't call it an amazing system overall, but it's certainly nice. It can hold its own against full-size cans in the price range, and here you're getting cans _and_ an amp for the same price.

 The sound is pretty much what you want - warm, with a tight but prominent bass. Deep bass isn't really its forte and upper treble is basically AWOL, but what's there is quite nice. The real strength of this system is the midrange - it's liquid, detailed, forward, and generally awesome. You have to pay a whole lot more, on average, to get this kind of midrange in a full-size headphone, much less a portable one.

 More importantly, you're getting electrostatic sound on the move. There's something very unique about the electrostatic presentation, and having it in portable format is worth the price of the unit alone, if this is the sound that you're after.


----------



## pipoplus

has somebody experimented with running pro lambda's on a non-pro socket?
 I find it can make an modern Lambda sound more mellow and easy on the ears (of course at a penalty ;less dynamics, less detail)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The entire Lambda series sounds nothing like the SR-001/003 series! The Lambda series is noted for a forward, bright, lively, punchy sound. The tonal balance of the Lambda is more like a SR-X with bass. The phone that has the closest tonal balance is the SR-007. I don't mean to say that the 001/003 are in the same league but the balance is closer to the SR-007 compared to the Lambda series._

 

I find the SR-003 sound the closest to my SR-5 gold edition (I believe thinner mylar than other SR-5), and I think the sound of the SR-5 is very good. It is different than the Lambdas but every bit as enjoyable.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DesertInTheShape* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks headphone addict and krmathis. 
 i can't believe the price for the
 SR-001 MKII System. (259.99 us dollars at audiocubesII) (can't believe it, as in 1)too good to be true OR 2)they aren't that great)
 how are these?
 i like a warm sound with good bass. (although i listen to mostly classical, i don't like phones or monitors that have too much mid and highs)
 currently listening with ue supef-fi 5 pros and some old sennheisers.
 HEADPHONE ADDICT---you said that this compares to livewires with a small amp?!?!? really?!!
 and what is a super fat cat mod?_

 

My SR-001 needed a lot of hours to burn-in, and between 250 hours and 350 hours it started to sound very enjoyable. My understanding is that isn't typical to need that long, so don't worry about that.

 It is a little below Livewires with a RSA Predator or Meier Headsix, but it competes very well for my time. I like the SR-001 better than the Super.fi 5 Pro that I sold last year (Super.fi 5 Pro have a sucked out midrange that was too recessed for me - when I got the SR-001 it had too much midrange which got much better with more hours on it).

 The SuperFatCat mod is not something to do without experience. It's a replacement of opamps, and caps and resistors, and powersupply changes, with the goal to beat the SR-003 played through a full size amp. Mine will be going out this week to have the mod done as part of a review process I am doing. The Stax SRM-001 mod thread - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_has somebody experimented with running pro lambda's on a non-pro socket?
 I find it can make an modern Lambda sound more mellow and easy on the ears (of course at a penalty ;less dynamics, less detail)_

 

This was more or less the thought behind the variable bias on the SRM-T1W for those that want a softer sound.


----------



## fpsoft1

I'm (still) evaluating buying a 3050 system: is it a good idea to buy from audiocubes? Consider that i live in Italy. Thanks.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This was more or less the thought behind the variable bias on the SRM-T1W for those that want a softer sound._

 

Not a Stax item, but electrostatic - I paid for the CLS's today I thought had fallen through. They should be fun when I get home.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a Stax item, but electrostatic - I paid for the CLS's today I thought had fallen through. They should be fun when I get home.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats on the CLS's. I hope you find the joy they can offer with the right setup of room and equipment. A wonderful alternative to ESPs is a good ESL set up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a Stax item, but electrostatic - I paid for the CLS's today I thought had fallen through. They should be fun when I get home.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very cool!! Also not Stax related but I put in an offer on a Lenco L75 table to mod. I could fit a Stax arm to it though...


----------



## afternoon025

i've never tried a stax system,seems great,maybe someday i will save some money or sell my he60 system to have one.......


----------



## milkpowder

I haven't really listened to my HE60 ever since the Lambda Professionals touched down. I think I prefer the slightly thicker, richer sound of the Lambdas. The HE60 does have superior imaging though.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Which Stax model is ideal for classical? I've only heard the O2 and think it's perfect for rock and jazz, but with a somewhat limited soundstage, it may not be the best for classical.


----------



## spritzer

If you want classical on a grand scale the Sigmas are hard to beat.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Looks like the Sigmas are out of production. Any current Stax models that does classical better than the O2?


----------



## spritzer

If you want an artificially large soundstage then the Lambdas have that but the O2's have much better instrument separation and while the soundstage is smaller it is much more accurate.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm (still) evaluating buying a 3050 system: is it a good idea to buy from audiocubes? Consider that i live in Italy. Thanks._

 

Yes, AudioCubes (PriceJapan or like) are the way to go for Stax. Cause you will most probably just pay 50-70% of the italian street price.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can get an old SRD-X transformer box with 1/4" headphone plug as the input, and connect it to your source via the headphone plug, and then connect your full size STAX to the normal bias output, all running on 8 c-cell batteries. The box will act as the amp, and has it's own volume control. And, you can power it with a 12v 500-100ma wall wart (negative tip) to save batteries when not portable. You could even run the mini in-ear SR-003 with one if you had to.

 I bought an SRD-X for myself and one for my son to use with the SR-5 I gave him, and they work fairly well.

 The other option is the portable SR-001 Mk2 system that we've been discussing._

 

Just to point out that several of the SRD series do not use a 1/4" plug at all but use a regular line in via mini stereo and RCA and come in both low and high bias versions. Some have one of each socket. 

 I wish that Stax still had a modern version of these being made. However, the portable SR001 is pretty good although it uses a non- standard Stax plug. I know of peple who have adated the headphone output to accept the normal Stax plug so as to run other Stax phones.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to point out that several of the SRD series do not use a 1/4" plug at all but use a regular line in via mini stereo and RCA and come in both low and high bias versions. Some have one of each socket. 

 I wish that Stax still had a modern version of these being made. However, the portable SR001 is pretty good although it uses a non- standard Stax plug. I know of peple who have adated the headphone output to accept the normal Stax plug so as to run other Stax phones._

 

Cool - does anyone sell an adapter off the shelf to let us plug full size STAX (pro bias) into the SRM-001 driver unit?

 My son and I each have an SRD-X with 1/4", and can plug into our DAP or portable CD with a 1/8" adapter. It sounds better when driven by the headphone out of my iBasso D1 DAC/amp when feed an optical digital input. The iBasso DAC line (bypassing amp) is is not as warm as the headphone out, but if I feed that line out into the Darkvoice 336i tube amplifier with the same source feeding an optical signal, then I plug the SRD-X into the 336i and the SRD-X truely performs well. That is still not as good as the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro electrostatic driver/amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Back to the SR-001 - it is sounding really good, and I think at 400-500 hours it is done changing/improving. There were few changes over the weekend. It still has less air and ambience than the SR-003 on a home amp, which passed up the SR-001 after only 12 hours of burn-in.

 I think most of the SR-001 burn-in was on the amplifier unit, because the SR-003 with a well burned-in SRM-1 Mk2 Pro didn't need nearly as much burn-in. At 66 hours this morning SR-003 is sounding close to how it did yesterday at 54 hours, with just a slight change as it opened up a little more with more ambience and air around the instruments and picked up a little more bass. 

 Some of my comments on the sound changes are based on comparing them to something unchanging, or well burned in. For instance, comparing the SR-003 to my SR-5 yesterday I said the SR-003 reminds me of the SR-5 gold edition. I left them all running last light, and listened again this morning. This morning I still hear a similar sound signature between SR-003 and SR-5 gold; but the the SR-003 has matured slightly more. There seems to be more bass than I remember them having at the time I made that remark, and the treble may have a little more extension as well. Vs the SR-Lambda though, the Lambda is even more open and airy with bigger soundstage and maybe a little more brightness in the lower treble (4-8Khz), while maintaining a strong bass.

 Also, I think the midrange peaks are in different places between the three, and especially piano sounds a little different between the the SR-001/003 (and even the SR-5). I think the bump in the SR-001 mids is at a lower frequency than SR-003, maybe 500Hz vs 1-2KHz for the later. Other than that, the sound signature still has a similar flavor, while both my lambdas have a different flavor. I will be spending some time trying to flesh out what I am hearing as differences over the next day, as I also introduce my SR-3 that I bought from Spritzer.


----------



## Traddad

Well, the SR-001s (not MkII) arrived this afternoon and I just did a short A-B session comparing them to my Alessandro MS-1's (through a Zeroaudiocraft amp) listening to Bill Evans' Gloria's Steps - Take 3 from the Complete Vanguard Sessions and these are a few observations and a question.
 1) detail is incredible. I'm hearing entire conversations in the background. 
 2) soundstage is a bit more remote...say first row rather than sitting in with the band
 3) while build quality looks great, *damn* these things look and feel fragile. I'm afraid to wear then beyond the couch! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 4) highs are OK but don't shimmer like the Grado/Alessandros (brushed cymbal)
 5) bass is crisp but not very extended at all

 Any way to adjust the bass without doing the EQ thing? I'm not a bass head but this really is thin, watery bass.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, the SR-001s (not MkII) arrived this afternoon and I just did a short A-B session comparing them to my Alessandro MS-1's (through a Zeroaudiocraft amp) listening to Bill Evans' Gloria's Steps - Take 3 from the Complete Vanguard Sessions and these are a few observations and a question.
 1) detail is incredible. I'm hearing entire conversations in the background. 
 2) soundstage is a bit more remote...say first row rather than sitting in with the band
 3) while build quality looks great, *damn* these things look and feel fragile. I'm afraid to wear then beyond the couch! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 4) highs are OK but don't shimmer like the Grado/Alessandros (brushed cymbal)
 5) bass is crisp but not very extended at all

 Any way to adjust the bass without doing the EQ thing? I'm not a bass head but this really is thin, watery bass._

 

The fit is very important for the bass to be right. Do you have a good seal with them?


----------



## Traddad

I really think the seal is OK, although I'll try the other ear seals to see.

 Edit: I tried the seals, rotated and twisted and the difference is minimal at best. I never thought of the MS-1 as being bassy but......
 I'm thinking these may not be the cans for me. Really, I am NOT a thump-head, but the low end just does not go low enough and the highs are a bit rolled off. Also, I need a more substantial build. 
 I like them, just maybe not enough to keep them.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I've owned both the ms1 and sr001 and from my experience the stax has way more bass. I don't feel any bass with the small tips on the stax though so I'm still going to say the fit is bad. I still feel plenty of bass without eq and I own atrio m5s which are argued to be the bassiest iem.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really think the seal is OK, although I'll try the other ear seals to see.

 Edit: I tried the seals, rotated and twisted and the difference is minimal at best. I never thought of the MS-1 as being bassy but......
 I'm thinking these may not be the cans for me. Really, I am NOT a thump-head, but the low end just does not go low enough and the highs are a bit rolled off. Also, I need a more substantial build. 
 I like them, just maybe not enough to keep them._

 

I agree with your assessment vs my MS-1.

 If you don't want to keep them, drop me a PM about taking them off your hands. I might be able to use them in my review of a modded SR-001 vs stock.

 However, you could burn them in for 200-300 hours first, by playing music through them for a week straight, listen to it, and then do it for another week if it isn't good enough.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really think the seal is OK, although I'll try the other ear seals to see.

 Edit: I tried the seals, rotated and twisted and the difference is minimal at best. I never thought of the MS-1 as being bassy but......
 I'm thinking these may not be the cans for me. Really, I am NOT a thump-head, but the low end just does not go low enough and the highs are a bit rolled off. Also, I need a more substantial build. 
 I like them, just maybe not enough to keep them._

 

I think they have almost as much bass as the MS-1, although I am not a basshead and don't need an excess of bass, just a level amount.

 One thing I found that kills the bass for me, is to GET a good seal on the SR-001. I find I get MORE bass if they are in the headband, and the large silicone tips are resting against my ear canal openings, with the cord going slightly forward as it goes down. Once I push them deeper into my ears, I DO lose bass, as you have described. So far you are the only one I've read noting the same problem with less bass when a good seal is obtained.

 Tell me what happens if you try the headband with light pressure holding them against the ear canal openings.


----------



## catscratch

Using the headband as opposed to shoving them in is definitely more bassy. And, in sheer bass quantities, I found that the 003/007t combo was way, way too bassy for my tastes. It had the tonal balance of a single-ended HD650.

 These things can put out some serious bass. Not much deep bass, though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool - does anyone sell an adapter off the shelf to let us plug full size STAX (pro bias) into the SRM-001 driver unit?

 My son and I each have an SRD-X with 1/4", and can plug into our DAP or portable CD with a 1/8" adapter. It sounds better when driven by the headphone out of my iBasso D1 DAC/amp when feed an optical digital input. The iBasso DAC line (bypassing amp) is is not as warm as the headphone out, but if I feed that line out into the Darkvoice 336i tube amplifier with the same source feeding an optical signal, then I plug the SRD-X into the 336i and the SRD-X truely performs well. That is still not as good as the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro electrostatic driver/amp._

 

Not that I am aware. The poeple I know made their own by ripping open the amp case and wiring in a full size socket. You could take the plug and cord from the 001 and re-terminate it with a full-size Stax socket so you don't damage the amp.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really think the seal is OK, although I'll try the other ear seals to see.

 Edit: I tried the seals, rotated and twisted and the difference is minimal at best. I never thought of the MS-1 as being bassy but......
 I'm thinking these may not be the cans for me. Really, I am NOT a thump-head, but the low end just does not go low enough and the highs are a bit rolled off. Also, I need a more substantial build. 
 I like them, just maybe not enough to keep them._

 

Try listening to them when you have more moisture in your ears (like after a hot shower). The seal/bass response is usually better that way.

 The 001's don't go down very deep, though bass strength is easy to improve in the little amp. Replacing the high voltage reservoir cap to a 0.1uf X2 series will give you plenty of bass (with stock input electrolytics).
 By since yours is a rare MKI, I supposed modding is not a good idea.....

 I don't think low end Grado's have very deep bass either, probably about the same depth as the 001's.


----------



## The Other Allen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats one way to do it.
 Or just put them on your head and enjoy some nice music... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 My experience is that they need at least 30 minutes of warming up before they show their full potential. Perhaps even more if the 'phones have been fully discharged._

 

krmathis, thanks for the reply on the 2050II. I think the best way to describe my enjoyment is hearing a new song and not being to wait to hear how it sounds on the phones,


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the CLS's. I hope you find the joy they can offer with the right setup of room and equipment. A wonderful alternative to ESPs is a good ESL set up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 


 Thanks, they should sing with my new ARC Ref 210's.

 Cheers,

 Bob


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very cool!! Also not Stax related but I put in an offer on a Lenco L75 table to mod. I could fit a Stax arm to it though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Got a buddy with a Sota table and a Stax arm that still sounds respectable, even with his old cartridge, a Kiseki Blue Spot Gold.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got a buddy with a Sota table and a Stax arm that still sounds respectable, even with his old cartridge, a Kiseki Blue Spot Gold.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Stax arms were rather good back in the day and I'd love to hear the full Stax setup with a condenser cartridge.


----------



## Traddad

I really tried to get the SR-001 seals to seat differently in my ears and I think I got them as good as they are going to get, for me. I tried the different sizes, in and out of the headband, twisted, turned rotated, did the bottle opener thing....no go. The best bass I got was with the medium tips and the headband with the cords rotated a bit forward. I have to admit that I have relatively small ear canals (almost no IEM is even bearable) and could not even begin to fit the tips inside my canals. As I said earlier, the rest of the sonic signature is detailed and good, although the highs are a bit rolled off and don't shimmer like the Grado/Alessandro signature that I love and am used to. My alltime favorite cans were my SR-325i's, although they were a bit too bright. That's why I'm considering just biting the bullet and going for the MS-2i.
 It seems that fit is a real issue on these phones. IMHO, if you have to fiddle that much to get them to sound OK, it's a design flaw. I'm thinking STAX was trying to jump onto the IEM bandwagon but the electrostatic design was incompatible, so this chimera-can was the result. They should have just gone for a design something like an open back K-26p. Also, I understand the design behind the small flat cables but would it be too much to ask that they be made more substantial? In fact, that could be said for the whole shebang. I guess it once again comes down to being a longtime Grado owner...they just seem more substantial.
 I'd love to own a set of STAX but I have two requirements, one subjective and one objective: They need to have a "Grado/Alessandro-like" sound (with more detail!) and they need to be portable on a daily basis and run from my D-15 or my Cowon D2. I really can't afford to have a home only set of cans, but it seems that the rest of the STAX line is not very portable, in a real world sense.
 Just my 0.02.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Traddad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd love to own a set of STAX but I have two requirements, one subjective and one objective: They need to have a "Grado/Alessandro-like" sound (with more detail!) and they need to be portable on a daily basis and run from my D-15 or my Cowon D2. I really can't afford to have a home only set of cans, but it seems that the rest of the STAX line is not very portable, in a real world sense.
 Just my 0.02._

 

Well I don't think you can get Stax that sound like Grado/Alessandro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I for instance dislike Grado/Alessandro sound, so to each it's own a guess.


----------



## Traddad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I don't think you can get Stax that sound like Grado/Alessandro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I for instance dislike Grado/Alessandro sound, so to each it's own a guess. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Actually the SR-001 is not a bad fit for a Grado Guy in at least one area. The detail is impecable and the soundstage is only a bit removed, but the highs and lows are a bit rolled off. That's a lot ...but I really am more of a "detail guy" than a strict Grado afficinado. I want to hear the organic chaos that is happening in the room as well as the musical notes. Perhaps this is why I HATE fake/electronic music or stuff that's run through too many filters/synthesizers. 
 Add some shimmer, deeper bass and a stronger build and I'd keep the SR-001s.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, thanks for the reply on the 2050II. I think the best way to describe my enjoyment is hearing a new song and not being to wait to hear how it sounds on the phones, 



_

 

Great to hear that you enjoy the music, and not just the gear. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, I walked by the local Stax dealer today.
 In hopes that I could take a closer look at and audition the SRM-007TII and SR-007MK2. But sadly they have closed the store for drop-in visitors, and take customers by appointment only.
 Meaning that I will need to make an appointment some day, and walk by again. Not a big deal, but an extra step which makes it a little bit trickier to plan.


----------



## krmathis

I answer this question in here, since it seems like the best suited place.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am thinking about getting 4070s but for now I only have an SRM-1 MkII Pro amp. Have you heard the 4070 with that amp or any of the other solid state Stax offerings? I would eventually buy a better amp -- and thought the 4070 sounded quite good with the 007tii -- but I didn't use my brain and try them on my amp while they were right next to each other. Any thoughts from others would also be appreciated._

 

As mentioned I had never hooked up the 4070 to a solid state Stax amplifier.
 Until this evening, when I hooked it up to my SRM-1/MK2 Pro.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 NB! I am running the SRM-1/MK2 Pro in single ended mode (obviously), and with the stock IC that followed the SRM-1/MK2 Pro. Compared to balanced mode and RSAD Poiema!!! Signature with my SRM-007t. So have that in mind.

 Here it goes:
 My previous experience with my SRM-1/MK2 Pro are that it drives the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-X/MK3 beautifully. But it "failed" driving the more demanding SR-007. Seems like it don't have the power to drive them properly.
 So I were a bit anxious to see how it stood up against the 4070.

 I hooked it all up and let it heat up and play music at a low level for ~30 minutes before I started the listening session.
 To my partial surprise it sounded very nice, and it certainly seem to drive the 4070 to a level that I can live with. Much like with the previous mentioned SR-Lambda Pro. So they are obviously a lighter load than the SR-007.

 On acoustic music, ex. some Nils Lofgren, its very detailed, airy and well controlled. But with some bass heavy music, ex. Massive Attack "Angel", its very noticeable that it struggle with the bass. It loose some of the controll, and is not as punchy as with the SRM-007t. That track is very demanding for the system though.
 And overall it don't have the same sound stage and warmth/smooth sound. Of which some might be caused by the solid state vs. tube design.

 All in all, I think it performs pretty good. Especially considering that the amplifier is 20+ years old (mine are made in early 1987), and can be had for $4-500 (or perhaps less). Far from a perfect match, but quite nice imo.

 Thats about what I have to say right now!
 But I will continue running my SRM-1/MK2 for some days, and might have more comments as the days go on. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 At last a couple of pictures, for the viewing pleasure.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I hooked it all up and let it heat up and play music at a low level for ~30 minutes before I started the listening session.
 To my partial surprise it sounded very nice, and it certainly seem to drive the 4070 to a level that I can live with. Much like with the previous mentioned SR-Lambda Pro. So they are obviously a lighter load than the SR-007.

 On acoustic music, ex. some Nils Lofgren, its very detailed, airy and well controlled. But with some bass heavy music, ex. Massive Attack "Angel", its very noticeable that it struggle with the bass. It loose some of the controll, and is not as punchy as with the SRM-007t. That track is very demanding for the system though._

 

I am confused here. I understand the tube vs solidstate difference, but the control of the bass comparison seem rather strange. STAX SRM-007T II's maximum output voltage is 340V r.m.s. / 1 kHz, while SRM-1 MkII Pro maximum output voltage is 370V/1KHz. So shouldn't SRM-1 have more control at the cost of warmth and liquidity?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am confused here. I understand the tube vs solidstate difference, but the control of the bass comparison seem rather strange. STAX SRM-007T II's maximum output voltage is 340V r.m.s. / 1 kHz, while SRM-1 MkII Pro maximum output voltage is 370V/1KHz. So shouldn't SRM-1 have more control at the cost of warmth and liquidity?_

 

Yes, those voltage numbers are correct.
 But perhaps there are more to it than just the numbers? Example the dimensions of the power supply. Or the fact that I don't run the amplifiers under the same conditions (balanced vs. single ended)?

 I am no expert in amplifier construction, just say that I clearly hear a difference.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, those voltage numbers are correct.
 But perhaps there are more to it than just the numbers? Example the dimensions of the power supply. Or the fact that I don't run the amplifiers under the same conditions (balanced vs. single ended)?

 I am no expert in amplifier construction, just say that I clearly hear a difference. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you have them hooked up to the same source?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you have them hooked up to the same source?_

 

Yes, my Electrocompaniet ECD1 are used for both of them.


----------



## milkpowder

Doesn't the 007t get incredibly hot with the SRM-1 on top of it?!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Doesn't the 007t get incredibly hot with the SRM-1 on top of it?!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not when its power cord are used to feed the SRM-1.


----------



## Voltron

As stated elsewhere, thanks so much for hooking up these two and running them through their paces together krmathis! I am encouraged that I could enjoy this combination without too much difficulty while I decide what I want to do about a better amp. I am also curious how the ED-1 will fare with the 4070. It is silly that they were sitting all together and the 4070s were probably plugged into my setup at some point, but there was so much going on and the 007tII sounded so good with the 4070 that I didn't focus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, thanks again.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am confused here. I understand the tube vs solidstate difference, but the control of the bass comparison seem rather strange. STAX SRM-007T II's maximum output voltage is 340V r.m.s. / 1 kHz, while SRM-1 MkII Pro maximum output voltage is 370V/1KHz. So shouldn't SRM-1 have more control at the cost of warmth and liquidity?_

 

You can look at this in the same way as RMS power figures on speaker amps. It's a meaningless number as it doesn't show how the amp responds under dynamic circumstances. We could compare that new Rudicrap and the Blue Hawaii. Both have the same output tubes so they should be similar yet the Rudistor doesn't have the massive current sources of the BH that make it so good. Voltage swing is only part of the puzzle as the phones need current when the impedance falls in the high and low frequencies.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As stated elsewhere, thanks so much for hooking up these two and running them through their paces together krmathis! I am encouraged that I could enjoy this combination without too much difficulty while I decide what I want to do about a better amp. I am also curious how the ED-1 will fare with the 4070. It is silly that they were sitting all together and the 4070s were probably plugged into my setup at some point, but there was so much going on and the 007tII sounded so good with the 4070 that I didn't focus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, thanks again._

 

You're most welcome!
 Its fun for me as well, as there are amp/phone combinations that I have not tried out. Next out are the SRM-1/MK2 and SR-404...

 The 4070's sure are a great pair of headphones. While the SRM-1/MK2 don't show their full potential, it drives them to a level that I could absolutely live with. Go for it! he he


----------



## hekoman

I just got a pair of SR-Gamma (non-pro) and a SRD-6/SB in the mail today, and I have had a few hours to listen to them, and I have a few questions:

 First I am just surprised at how different that they sounds from my SR-202's. They are like the polar opposites of all the lambdas that I have heard. They are so up-front and bright. Actually the first time I listened to them for a little while earlier today I got a headache due to them being so bright, so I have just turned down the treble on my amp and they sound much better. I really think the brightness may be due to my amp, and old Sony AX-500. I remember thinking it sounding more detailed than my old Hitachi SR-804 with my speakers, so I may dust off the old Hitachi and see what it can do with the Gammas. 

 To me they do sound much more detailed than my SR-202's. But I think that may due in part to my overly bright amp, and the more upfront sound of the Gammas. I think I still like my SR-202's better due to their more laid back presentation, much larger soundstage and better bass response, but the Gammas are still great nonetheless.

 And also the gammas seem to creak a lot whenever I move my head while wearing them, due you guys have any tips on lessing that at all. Also is there anyway that I can get new pads for them, since the ones on them now are pretty old and are pretty squished down now. And finally is there anything that I need to now before opening them up to take out or replace the foam behind the drivers, since the foam thats is in there now is in pretty bad shape. 

 Thanks for any inputs you guys have.


----------



## spritzer

You can use talcum powder on the creaking parts and they will be silent. There are no earpads available from Stax nor any other Gamma parts.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can look at this in the same way as RMS power figures on speaker amps. It's a meaningless number as it doesn't show how the amp responds under dynamic circumstances. We could compare that new Rudicrap and the Blue Hawaii. Both have the same output tubes so they should be similar yet the Rudistor doesn't have the massive current sources of the BH that make it so good. Voltage swing is only part of the puzzle as the phones need current when the impedance falls in the high and low frequencies._

 

Well, yeah, you are right. But I was alway under impression that one thing that good solidstate does well is bass control. I guess SRM-1 does not have good bass control with difficult loads.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, yeah, you are right. But I was alway under impression that one thing that good solidstate does well is bass control. I guess SRM-1 does not have good bass control with difficult loads._

 

That is in no way a rule but holds true for many amps. It's really the PSU in the SRM-1 that is holding it back as it was designed to drive the Lambdas. The same amp section fitted to a bigger PSU (SRA-14S) would be better at driving the more difficult headphones. It simply runs out of steam when faced with the 4070 bass or rather its current demands.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess SRM-1 does not have good bass control with difficult loads._

 

Like Birgir I am quite sure its the SRM-1/MK2's power supply that is holding it back when driving the 4070. The SRM-1/MK2 drive the Lambda 'phones (SR-Lambda Pro and SR-404) quite well, but fall a bit short with the 4070.

 So obviously the closed-back design of the 4070 make it a harder load than the SR-404, since they share the same drivers and cable.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is in no way a rule but holds true for many amps. It's really the PSU in the SRM-1 that is holding it back as it was designed to drive the Lambdas. The same amp section fitted to a bigger PSU (SRA-14S) would be better at driving the more difficult headphones. It simply runs out of steam when faced with the 4070 bass or rather its current demands._

 

Interesting, so SRM-1 has the same amp section as 14S? Never knew that. Thanks for the info. So based on how it handles 4070 I guess it will not be a good match for lets say Sigmas, but will sound great with any Lambdas or Gammas.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting, so SRM-1 has the same amp section as 14S? Never knew that. Thanks for the info. So based on how it handles 4070 I guess it will not be a good match for lets say Sigmas, but will sound great with any Lambdas or Gammas._

 

That's what I've heard with the SRM-1. It works fine with the Lambdas, Gammas and older models but the Sigmas are too demanding.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, yeah, you are right. But I was alway under impression that one thing that good solidstate does well is bass control. I guess SRM-1 does not have good bass control with difficult loads._

 

well, one other place this doesn't hold is the KGSS versus the BH.


----------



## spritzer

That is very much true. The KGSS has nothing on the BH in bass power, resolution or depth.


----------



## Faust2D

Looks like someone has to yet design a powerhouse solid state amp to drive electrostatic headphones


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like someone has to yet design a powerhouse solid state amp to drive electrostatic headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The problem is that tubes are just better suited to the job (any amp job really) so while a better amp can be built it won't beat a tube amp. Tubes rule!!!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem is that tubes are just better suited to the job (any amp job really) so while a better amp can be built it won't beat a tube amp. Tubes rule!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well thats debatable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I am a big fan of tubes myself.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well thats debatable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I am a big fan of tubes myself. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It might be debatable but it is still true... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 SS can be damn good though when done properly and built to the same standard as a good tube amp.


----------



## Downrange

The KGSS had PLENTY of bass and oomph. But I sold mine and kept the Stax 7T2, as it handled more music, more musically. Blue Hawaii is definitely in my future, though.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS had PLENTY of bass and oomph. But I sold mine and kept the Stax 7T2, as it handled more music, more musically. Blue Hawaii is definitely in my future, though._

 

Does that mean you think the BH will outperform the T2, or you just want to explore the differences?

 Edit: Forget it. Thought it was a typo indicating a T2, then saw it was an abbreviation for SRM-007tII


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: Forget it. Thought it was a typo indicating a T2, then saw it was an abbreviation for SRM-007tII 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I can't stand all these damn abbreviations.

 There are many references to "the Omega" or "Omegas" that really mean one SR-007 Mk1 unit. Not one SR-Omega or multiple SR-Omega units. What about people who want to talk about one SR-Omega, or when comparing two SR-Omega units? 

 The "Omega II," "Omega 2" or "O2" is a nickname for the SR-007, I use it myself. So please don't say "my Omegas" when you mean your single SR-007 and not two or more SR-Omega units.

 The inconsistent and unreasonable use of plural when referring to a single headphone is annoying.

 "My 701s"... does this mean multiple units of the K701 or not? Are you referring to or comparing two K701's?

 "My headphones..." It's one single unit, isn't it? "My headphone" will do perfectly well for one headphone, right? It's in one piece and not two, unlike socks or shoes. Stupid English language.

 And then there's "ur, "u" or "ppl." I can't stand reading anything with "ur" in it.


----------



## tk3

Yeah, you tell em dude.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Time for your sedative...


----------



## tk3

* A new challenger..*














 NEED: amp.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't stand all these damn abbreviations.

 There are many references to "the Omega" or "Omegas" that really mean one SR-007 Mk1 unit. Not one SR-Omega or multiple SR-Omega units. What about people who want to talk about one SR-Omega, or when comparing two SR-Omega units? 

 The "Omega II," "Omega 2" or "O2" is a nickname for the SR-007, I use it myself. So please don't say "my Omegas" when you mean your single SR-007 and not two or more SR-Omega units.

 The inconsistent and unreasonable use of plural when referring to a single headphone is annoying._

 

Ditto!
 Its really annoying that some users don't use an understandable abbreviation, or even better the products full product name. Ex. SR-007MK2, SR-007BL, SR-Omega, SRM-007II, ...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* A new challenger..*
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3416/stax1mh4.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6308/stax2tm3.jpg

 NEED: amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations with a really nice pair of headphones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Which amplifier are you looking at?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't stand all these damn abbreviations.

 There are many references to "the Omega" or "Omegas" that really mean one SR-007 Mk1 unit. Not one SR-Omega or multiple SR-Omega units. What about people who want to talk about one SR-Omega, or when comparing two SR-Omega units? 

 The "Omega II," "Omega 2" or "O2" is a nickname for the SR-007, I use it myself. So please don't say "my Omegas" when you mean your single SR-007 and not two or more SR-Omega units.

 The inconsistent and unreasonable use of plural when referring to a single headphone is annoying.

 "My 701s"... does this mean multiple units of the K701 or not? Are you referring to or comparing two K701's?

 "My headphones..." It's one single unit, isn't it? "My headphone" will do perfectly well for one headphone, right? It's in one piece and not two, unlike socks or shoes. Stupid English language.

 And then there's "ur, "u" or "ppl." I can't stand reading anything with "ur" in it._

 

It can be annoying but you talk about headphones like you talk about pants i.e. plural. If you want something different then we can just use German (kopfhörer) or Icelandic (heyrnartól). just a thought...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't stand all these damn abbreviations.

 There are many references to "the Omega" or "Omegas" that really mean one SR-007 Mk1 unit. Not one SR-Omega or multiple SR-Omega units. What about people who want to talk about one SR-Omega, or when comparing two SR-Omega units? 

 The "Omega II," "Omega 2" or "O2" is a nickname for the SR-007, I use it myself. So please don't say "my Omegas" when you mean your single SR-007 and not two or more SR-Omega units.

 The inconsistent and unreasonable use of plural when referring to a single headphone is annoying.

 "My 701s"... does this mean multiple units of the K701 or not? Are you referring to or comparing two K701's?

 "My headphones..." It's one single unit, isn't it? "My headphone" will do perfectly well for one headphone, right? It's in one piece and not two, unlike socks or shoes. Stupid English language.

 And then there's "ur, "u" or "ppl." I can't stand reading anything with "ur" in it._

 

ur jes bein silly my peep


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't stand all these damn abbreviations.

 There are many references to "the Omega" or "Omegas" that really mean one SR-007 Mk1 unit. Not one SR-Omega or multiple SR-Omega units. What about people who want to talk about one SR-Omega, or when comparing two SR-Omega units? 

 The "Omega II," "Omega 2" or "O2" is a nickname for the SR-007, I use it myself. So please don't say "my Omegas" when you mean your single SR-007 and not two or more SR-Omega units.

 The inconsistent and unreasonable use of plural when referring to a single headphone is annoying.

 "My 701s"... does this mean multiple units of the K701 or not? Are you referring to or comparing two K701's?

 "My headphones..." It's one single unit, isn't it? "My headphone" will do perfectly well for one headphone, right? It's in one piece and not two, unlike socks or shoes. Stupid English language.

 And then there's "ur, "u" or "ppl." I can't stand reading anything with "ur" in it._

 


 wai wut? y u want 2 type all dat, to much effort


----------



## Downrange

GEEZ, SORRRREEEE!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thread needs to be spiced up if this is all we get for a page.

 I type 7T2 'cause I get tired of typing SRM-007TII all the time.

 Plus, it's in my fricken signature!


----------



## Johnny Blue

'Cor, an der waz me finkin u ment a T2!

 (Elephas, see what you've started?!)


----------



## Elephas

Whoa, this is the first time I've been quoted more than one time. I feel honored, does this mean I'm a "made guy" now? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Actually, other languages such as Mandarin Chinese is just as lacking in precision. The word for "headphone" is both singular and plural. I don't understand how people can communicate with these faulty languages. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Uh, er, about Stax...

 What were they thinking when they named the SR-007? Shaken, not stirred?

 And now there's the SR-007A and SR-007 MkII. How are we going keep things straight? I propose using the shorthand notation "O2A" and "O2II."

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(Elephas, see what you've started?!)_

 

C'mon, it was Downrange's fault! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 His "tired of typing SRM-007TII all the time" made me risk elevated blood pressure when I thought he was talking about a T2!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Uh, er, about Stax...

 What were they thinking when they named the SR-007? Shaken, not stirred?_

 

It does sound cool but I guess it is more of a homage to the SR-1 and its lineage then anything else. The SR-5N(B) was really the SR-6 but they kept the SR-5 name as it was well known. That would really make the SR-Omega the 7th super aural circular phone and the SR-007 is just Stax finishing what they had started with the SR-Omega. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And now there's the SR-007A and SR-007 MkII. How are we going keep things straight? I propose using the shorthand notation "O2A" and "O2II."_

 

I think that would work well enough.


----------



## tk3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations with a really nice pair of headphones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Which amplifier are you looking at?_

 

I went with the GES, waiting for it currently, Jack quoted me a 2-3 week build time.
 The choice in non-STAX electrostatic amplifiers seems to be pretty limited in the 2k> range.

 My train of thought went somewhat like this:
 You got the Rudistor Egmont and the McAllister line, which are not that great reportedly, so I steered clear of those.
 The KGSS is probably the best of the bunch just looking at reviews and user opinions, but it's harder to come by, and I did not want to wait 2+ months for one to be built.
 Besides that, my preference went to a tube amp, so the GES was the logical choice.
 There seem to be some Japanese amplifiers too, but they only ship domestically I think, and the lack of reviews & comparisons on them makes it too big of a gamble to even consider for me.

 Since I'm in Euro like you, it's harder to demo things, so pretty much all I/we can do is read about it online and draw our conclusions.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What were they thinking when they named the SR-007? Shaken, not stirred?

 And now there's the SR-007A and SR-007 MkII. How are we going keep things straight? I propose using the shorthand notation "O2A" and "O2II."_

 

*O2A* and *O2II* will probably work. Cause those abbreviations are different enough from *O2* that people should be able to see the difference.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went with the GES, waiting for it currently, Jack quoted me a 2-3 week build time.
 The choice in non-STAX electrostatic amplifiers seems to be pretty limited in the 2k> range.

 <snip>

 Since I'm in Euro like you, it's harder to demo things, so pretty much all I/we can do is read about it online and draw our conclusions._

 

The GES are said to be great sound/value for the money, so you probably did a wise choice.
 ...and as you say. There are close to no possibility for us Europeans to audition any of the aftermarket amplifiers, which are mostly made in the US. 
 Hence we usually need to buy them blind. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep up posted when the GES arrives!


----------



## tk3

What about you, have you any plans to move up?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about you, have you any plans to move up?_

 

I have been looking for my next amplifier since late 2006, but so far not found it.
 The upcoming HeadAmp KGBH SE may very well turn out to be exactly what I am looking for. If so, then I certainly hope I will be able to score one.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went with the GES, waiting for it currently, Jack quoted me a 2-3 week build time.
 The choice in non-STAX electrostatic amplifiers seems to be pretty limited in the 2k> range.

 My train of thought went somewhat like this:
 You got the Rudistor Egmont and the McAllister line, which are not that great reportedly, so I steered clear of those.
 The KGSS is probably the best of the bunch just looking at reviews and user opinions, but it's harder to come by, and I did not want to wait 2+ months for one to be built.
 Besides that, my preference went to a tube amp, so the GES was the logical choice.
 There seem to be some Japanese amplifiers too, but they only ship domestically I think, and the lack of reviews & comparisons on them makes it too big of a gamble to even consider for me.

 Since I'm in Euro like you, it's harder to demo things, so pretty much all I/we can do is read about it online and draw our conclusions._

 

As an owner of both Woo GES and McAllister EA-4 I can confirm you have made a good choice. Their sound signatures are different and each pairs better with different headphones (for me ATM) but the Woo build quality is extremely solid and professional (expect high postage costs - significant weight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been looking for my next amplifier since late 2006, but so far not found it.
 The upcoming HeadAmp KGBH SE may very well turn out to be exactly what I am looking for. If so, then I certainly hope I will be able to score one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If only the KGBH SE was in tk3 or my budget ranges (sigh).

 I'm sure you'll have *extreme* fun with it though if you are able to score one.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As an owner of both Woo GES and McAllister EA-4 I can confirm you have made a good choice. Their sound signatures are different and each pairs better with different headphones (for me ATM) but the Woo build quality is extremely solid and professional (expect high postage costs - significant weight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Then I must ask, which one of you is going to step up and upgrade the GES? Some nice caps and resistors would be a good start...


----------



## edstrelow

I thought I had read a comment a few pages back, possibly by Spritzer, that the Sigma Pro use the same 1 micron diaphragm as the Lambda Signature, , but I couldn't find it again.

 Is thus true and does anyone have a reference to this, such as a Stax website?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought I had read a comment a few pages back, possibly by Spritzer, that the Sigma Pro use the same 1 micron diaphragm as the Lambda Signature, , but I couldn't find it again.

 Is thus true and does anyone have a reference to this, such as a Stax website?_

 

It does use the 1 micron diaphragm (same driver as the Lambda Signature) and it says so right in the instructions manual. There is even a comparison chart between the two Sigmas.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then I must ask, which one of you is going to step up and upgrade the GES? Some nice caps and resistors would be a good start... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Spritzer, I know I've been saying I will for some time - too many things on my plate, I guess.

 I'm sussing out tubes first, primarilly because you also posted recently (I forget where) that the number of caps involved would make it a substantial cost - perhaps such that I would be spending too much and should look at moving to a better amp altogether (I think was the inference)?

 I'm sure I also read somewhere recently (another HeadFi thread?) some suggested tubes from a GES owner who had just tuberolled.

 If anyone else has suggestions, including sources considering I'd need four matched tubes for the GES.

 I also understand the GES (and McAllister) are self biasing. I've never biased before so if tube suggestions would require me to upgrade my skills to include biasing, please advise.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I know I've been saying I will for some time - too many things on my plate, I guess.

 I'm sussing out tubes first, primarilly because you also posted recently (I forget where) that the number of caps involved would make it a substantial cost - perhaps such that I would be spending too much and should look at moving to a better amp altogether (I think was the inference)?

 I'm sure I also read somewhere recently (another HeadFi thread?) some suggested tubes from a GES owner who had just tuberolled.

 If anyone else has suggestions, including sources considering I'd need four matched tubes for the GES.

 I also understand the GES (and McAllister) are self biasing. I've never biased before so if tube suggestions would require me to upgrade my skills to include biasing, please advise._

 

The cost for really good caps would be substantial (500$) but well worth it in the end. That makes me wonder if anybody has built the DC-coupled version of the amp? The end cost would be much lower even if you have to have two extra 12AX7's. 

 Good tubes to look out for would be the Siemens and Mullard 12AX7's and just about any 6S4's since it is a rather good tube. I don't think there is any bias to adjust but I'm not sure how Woo altered the basic design. 

 This GES stuff has me thinking about having Woo make me one with normal bias outputs as well... Damn, damn, damn!!!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cost for really good caps would be substantial (500$) but well worth it in the end. That makes me wonder if anybody has built the DC-coupled version of the amp? The end cost would be much lower even if you have to have two extra 12AX7's. 

 Good tubes to look out for would be the Siemens and Mullard 12AX7's and just about any 6S4's since it is a rather good tube. I don't think there is any bias to adjust but I'm not sure how Woo altered the basic design. 

 This GES stuff has me thinking about having Woo make me one with normal bias outputs as well... Damn, damn, damn!!!_

 

Thanks for the recommendations, spritzer. Anyone else also want to add any?

 It will be interesting if you approach Woo with either or both of those options as your requests (e.g. How much for a DC-coupled version with the addition of normal bias outputs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the recommendations, spritzer. Anyone else also want to add any?

 It will be interesting if you approach Woo with either or both of those options as your requests (e.g. How much for a DC-coupled version with the addition of normal bias outputs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







)_

 

I'd really like to drop the 12AX7 though as you can do better and use less expensive tubes. It would require a thorough redesign so it's not really an option for me though with the new Blue Hawaii pending.


----------



## Zill

Greetings, Stax gurus. Could someone help me identify this pair of earspeakers? I'm fairly certain it's a Lambda Pro, but not sure of the exact model. 


















 Thanks in advance.


----------



## derekbmn

Lambda Pro Signatures.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Greetings, Stax gurus. Could someone help me identify this pair of earspeakers? I'm fairly certain it's a Lambda Pro, but not sure of the exact model. 


















 Thanks in advance._

 

The SR-Lambda Pro Signature are brown, and the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda pro are black.

 Sorry in advance to all those peeps out there hoping you might sell them to some lucky Head-Fi'er. _You are going to want to keep those suckers._ The Signatures are wonderful in my system. The SR-Lambda can put up a good fight with the SR-Lambda Signature, but can't quite match them, and both beat the SR-Lambda pro.

 This is what Spritzer has said about the SR-Lambda Signature:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spritzer* 
_The Signature is one of my favorite versions of the Lambda family and certainly one of the best headphones ever made. Properly amped they come very close to the Sennheiser HE60 in most areas and certainly surpass them when it comes to bass performance._


----------



## Faust2D

These just went for a very good price on that site with a nice T1 amp....someone got very lucky


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I can't figure out what site you are talking about.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't figure out what site you are talking about._


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'm guessing someone on the Head-fi site, wishing to remain anonymous but with initials F2, made an offer on them and now is the new owner?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It does use the 1 micron diaphragm (same driver as the Lambda Signature) and it says so right in the instructions manual. There is even a comparison chart between the two Sigmas._

 

Interesting.

 I had my Sigma pro's rebuilt from low bias Sigmas by Stax in Japan. I had some correspondance with them about choices of cable but not about transducers. I hope they used the proper transducer.

 More recently I had another low bias Sigma modded by the American distributer using 404 transducers and cable.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting.

 I had my Sigma pro's rebuilt from low bias Sigmas by Stax in Japan. I had some correspondance with them about choices of cable but not about transducers. I hope they used the proper transducer.

 More recently I had another low bias Sigma modded by the American distributer using 404 transducers and cable._

 

Stax always uses what they think is the best driver for the job so they never keep spares for older phones if there is a new generation available. They don't see the point in keeping the phones stock when something better is avaialble. They could have installed the correct drivers though if the Sigma was still available when they rebuilt them.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting.

 I had my Sigma pro's rebuilt from low bias Sigmas by Stax in Japan. I had some correspondance with them about choices of cable but not about transducers. I hope they used the proper transducer.

 More recently I had another low bias Sigma modded by the American distributer using 404 transducers and cable._

 

And your impressions comparing the three different Sigmas are? (I've got Normal Bias ones and am getting ready to try out the Sigma-404 option - always seeking others' opinions though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## milkpowder

They look so nice!


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Greetings, Stax gurus. Could someone help me identify this pair of earspeakers? I'm fairly certain it's a Lambda Pro, but not sure of the exact model. 
 

very nice headphones! you want to sell??


----------



## gimmish

I'm thinking of selling my Lamda Nova Signatures in order to help finance a GES. What is the current selling price for these? Spritzer, did you just sell a pair?


----------



## milkpowder

I'm sure they'll sell even if you put the price at around $400-500 + shipping. I'd be happy to pay that if I was in the position to buy one. Of course, you can be a very nice guy and sell them to me for $150


----------



## gimmish

I'd love to if I could but I really want the GES and $500 would help more than $150. I'm not sure yet if I will sell but later I may also have a very nice srm T1 available.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of selling my Lamda Nova Signatures in order to help finance a GES. What is the current selling price for these? Spritzer, did you just sell a pair?_

 

I just sold one on Saturday and they sold for 400$. They were mint though with the original earpads (not the same ones as the 404 uses)


----------



## gimmish

Thanks for the info, mine are excellent except for missing foam and the earpads are worn somewhat but not torn. What do you think I should ask?


----------



## Gradofan2

Where's the best place (price) to buy the SRS-3030 or 4040 (most recent versions) - not including Audiocubes, or Price Japan (I need US compatible PS)?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And your impressions comparing the three different Sigmas are? (I've got Normal Bias ones and am getting ready to try out the Sigma-404 option - always seeking others' opinions though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

I realise you did http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...erence-181637/ and http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...phones-171873/ but did you ever get to a Sigma vs Sigma Pro vs Sigma 404 comparo? (And, yes, I realise this question is probably even more relevant to the http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...ighlight=Sigma thread).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info, mine are excellent except for missing foam and the earpads are worn somewhat but not torn. What do you think I should ask?_

 

I would start at 350$ and see if there are any bites.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Stax menz: My O2II will be arriving in a few days and need an interim amp to drive them decently until my main amp arrives. I'm definitely opting for the 2nd hand route and looking to spend roughly $500. Suggestions?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Bidding ends in 5 minutes - not my auction, just an alert

Stax Electrostatic Earspeakers w/Class A Headphone Amp - eBay (item 300197582281 end time Feb-18-08 21:03:50 PST)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax menz: My O2II will be arriving in a few days and need an interim amp to drive them decently until my main amp arrives. I'm definitely opting for the 2nd hand route and looking to spend roughly $500. Suggestions?_

 

This is supposed to be better than the 727

Stax SRM717 Solid State Headphone Amp Full Range Driver - eBay (item 120221838923 end time Feb-19-08 18:32:04 PST)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

$611 was what a mint SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with decent SR-Lambda Signature pulled in on eBay. That is about $150 less than what mine cost me. If the amp is worth $400-500, he paid $100-200 for the SR-Lambda Pro - not bad.


----------



## Faust2D

That is not a bad price at all. I found my mint SRM-1 Mk2 Pro for $280 plus shipping, now that was a nice price


----------



## Zill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_very nice headphones! you want to sell?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry, I just got these and wasn't planning on selling them any time soon.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hah! See, I told yah they were worth keeping, and I warned you everyone would offer to buy them


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is supposed to be better than the 727

Stax SRM717 Solid State Headphone Amp Full Range Driver - eBay (item 120221838923 end time Feb-19-08 18:32:04 PST)_

 

You won't get a SRM-717 for $500.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax menz: My O2II will be arriving in a few days and need an interim amp to drive them decently until my main amp arrives. I'm definitely opting for the 2nd hand route and looking to spend roughly $500. Suggestions?_

 

Do you own a decent speaker amp?
 If so driving the Omega II by a speaker amp/Stax transformer combo (SRD-7 Pro or SRD 7 Mk II) is at least as good as cheaper used Stax amps and you can easily sell the SRD afterwards without a significant loss.The SRDs aren't as cheap as they used to be anymore but still cheaper as an amp.
 The going rate for a Pro SRD in good condition is ~$200.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Unfortunately no 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SRD7 does seem like a cost/performance efficient option.

 Thanks for the eBay links, HeadphoneAddict. I'll keep an eye out for those. In the end, I may have to shell out a bit more for one of the Stax amps.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you own a decent speaker amp?
 If so driving the Omega II by a speaker amp/Stax transformer combo (SRD-7 Pro or SRD 7 Mk II) is at least as good as cheaper used Stax amps and you can easily sell the SRD afterwards without a significant loss.The SRDs aren't as cheap as they used to be anymore but still cheaper as an amp.
 The going rate for a Pro SRD in good condition is ~$200._


----------



## 2deadeyes

How about this one? Adequate to use with the O2II?

STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 PP Amp RARE audiophile VINTAGEcollector - eBay (item 170194904029 end time Feb-24-08 19:00:00 PST)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about this one? Adequate to use with the O2II?

STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 PP Amp RARE audiophile VINTAGEcollector - eBay (item 170194904029 end time Feb-24-08 19:00:00 PST)_

 

That is just a normal SRM-1 mk2 for the most part so while ok to use with the SR-007 it isn't great.


----------



## Akathisia

Sorry to go OT - I know I don't post here, but I do follow the discussion.

 374 pages... I think it may be time to start a The Stax Thread Pt. III


----------



## Sinsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You won't get a SRM-717 for $500._

 

Do you mean that the winning price will be far higher... or do you see a problem with this item?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sinsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you mean that the winning price will be far higher... or do you see a problem with this item?_

 

I believe he means the former as the 717 retails for well over $1k.


----------



## Sinsen

Ok, that was what I thought... shhhh, noone bid, allright?


----------



## 2deadeyes

I wouldn't count on that


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akathisia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to go OT - I know I don't post here, but I do follow the discussion.

 374 pages... I think it may be time to start a The Stax Thread Pt. III_

 

The only reason the new Stax thread was made was due to a bug in the forum software which has been fixed so this one can go on forever!!!!!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I realise you did http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...erence-181637/ and http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...phones-171873/ but did you ever get to a Sigma vs Sigma Pro vs Sigma 404 comparo? (And, yes, I realise this question is probably even more relevant to the http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...ighlight=Sigma thread)._

 

This was my original reference to the Sigma/404 mod and I compared the 404 to the pro in a couple of places .http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sig...dphone-175556/

 Basically I found the 404 mod to have somewhat more treble which all Sigmas tend to roll off. There seemed to be a somewhat warmer and more detailed sound. It is definitely an improvement over the Sigma pro.

 Since my Sigma pro was not original stock, although modded by Stax I am not sure if it had the same transducer as the originals but certainly the Sigma/404 has the 404 transducer and cable (which I believe is still used even in the 02 phones)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax always uses what they think is the best driver for the job so they never keep spares for older phones if there is a new generation available. They don't see the point in keeping the phones stock when something better is avaialble. They could have installed the correct drivers though if the Sigma was still available when they rebuilt them._

 

BTW does the manual say anything about the cable for the Sigma Pro?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW does the manual say anything about the cable for the Sigma Pro?_

 

Just that it uses the same PC-OCC cable that was introduced in the Lambda Signature and is used on the SR-303 now.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 If so driving the Omega II by a speaker amp/Stax transformer combo (SRD-7 Pro or SRD 7 Mk II) is at least as good as cheaper used Stax amps and you can easily sell the SRD afterwards without a significant loss.The SRDs aren't as cheap as they used to be anymore but still cheaper as an amp.
 The going rate for a Pro SRD in good condition is ~$200. 
 

I have an SRD-7 PRO for a few weeks now and I must say I am very impressed by its performance (its driving Lambda's and I connected it to an old sony receiver; nothing special).
 I never did an A-B but I think I prefer it to the SRM-1 mk2 I had.
 I is necessary to do some small modifications though: like bypassing the speakers/headphones switch. (when I now turn the power off I will continue to hear music for over 15 minutes: amazing!)


----------



## 2deadeyes

Well, I ended up shelling out a bit more for that SRM717 on eBay; should do the O2II some justice for now.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I ended up shelling out a bit more for that SRM717 on eBay ........_

 

Not too much though.
 You won't lose money when you resell it later.
 Enjoy .........


----------



## gimmish

What did you pay for it? I was also watching it for my 02s but on an impulse I decided to get a GES.


----------



## 2deadeyes

I paid $805 total. It seems some eBayers from Europe were quite keen on getting it too. I hope its resale value holds when I sell it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I paid $805 total. It seems some eBayers from Europe were quite keen on getting it too. I hope its resale value holds when I sell it._

 


 I like my 717 and there has been some suggestion in this forum that its replacement isn't as good with some phones. 

 Sounds like a good price, especially if it is set for 117 volts, rather than 100 and needing a transformer. I think all the Stax amps need an upgraded power cord and the transformer would get in the way. However with the 717, even if its not 117 volts, it should be possible to reset the fuses inside to the 117 volt setting, something that I don't think you can do with the newer Stax amps because Stax has been trying to shut down the gray market and will only sell a 117 volt amp to the American distributer.


----------



## 2deadeyes

I believe this one is set to 117V so no fuse fiddling for me


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I ended up shelling out a bit more for that SRM717 on eBay; should do the O2II some justice for now._

 

I'm glad I could help you find one. I was thinking it would sell for $700-800, so you should at least break even if you sell it later. I wish I had bought one of Spritzer's SRM-T1 when I had the chance. But, with only Lambdas and below (no SR007) I don't need more than my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like my 717 and there has been some suggestion in this forum that its replacement isn't as good with some phones. 

 Sounds like a good price, especially if it is set for 117 volts, rather than 100 and needing a transformer. I think all the Stax amps need an upgraded power cord and the transformer would get in the way. However with the 717, even if its not 117 volts, it should be possible to reset the fuses inside to the 117 volt setting, something that I don't think you can do with the newer Stax amps because Stax has been trying to shut down the gray market and will only sell a 117 volt amp to the American distributer._

 

The new Stax amps come preset to the correct voltage but you still can convert them if you aren't afraid to open up the transformer and solder directly to the windings. 

 Btw. Transformers are given a bad wrap by the utter crap most use and idiot members of the audio press. A well built transformer with quality connectors could even be an improvement for some gear as it isolates it from the crap that is on the mains. Sadly there are few stock options for quality trafos so they need to be custom made.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I ended up shelling out a bit more for that SRM717 on eBay; should do the O2II some justice for now._

 

You will love the 717 on the O2 & O2II.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a 717, 007t, T1w & 1 mk2 Pro. The 717 is my favorite on the O2 & O2II. I sold my KGSS because I liked the 717 better. I also tried the new 727II and didn't like it. The 717 is dynamic, clean, musical and has great low level detail that extracts ambiance cues extremely well (a weakness of the KGSS). You will have to spend a lot more money to better it.


----------



## 2deadeyes

And so it is...I am now among the ranks of the Stax mafia


----------



## John Buchanan

I too like the 717, although I have never tried the KGSS or Blue Hawaii or any of the other aftermarket amps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

You guys are gonna make me feel stupid for sharing the link and not bidding on the 717 instead...


----------



## Drathen

Nice!


----------



## Sinsen

I did follow the development on the 717s my self, but I decided to start a notch further down, and bought th 3050II last night.

 Right out of the box, they sound nice enough... but very, the best word I could find for it, anemic.

 Separation of instruments is perfect, as I had expected, but neither detail, midrange, treble or bass is outstanding (Comparing it to a Denon D5000).

 A while back I auditioned these and other Stax-packages quite extenisively, and was very impressed, but the ones I tested were of course thoroughly burned in.

 Can I expect a signifigant improvement over the first few weeks?

 (Without me complaining, the importer I bought them from advised med to let them burn in 24/7 for at least a week.)


----------



## spritzer

The nr.1 rule with Stax solid state amps is to run them 24/7 or they will sound like crap. Even the Blue Hawaii isn't all that good until after 4 hours or so.


----------



## Sinsen

Thank you, that's reassuring.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And so it is...I am now among the ranks of the Stax mafia 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2598/dsc02622ik4.jpg
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/8766/dsc02626hm7.jpg_

 

Welcome aboard! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Keep us posted when the SRM-717 arrives, and you have listened to the combination...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The nr.1 rule with Stax solid state amps is to run them 24/7 or they will sound like crap. Even the Blue Hawaii isn't all that good until after 4 hours or so._

 

Yep, after working all night my SRM-1 sounds it's best.


----------



## gimmish

I will have a very clean srm T1 for sale within the next week. It has rca clear tops installed and some japanese tubes will also be included, $800. Also a Lambda Nova Signature, perfect except for worn earpads $375. I thought I would let you guys know first before I list elsewhere. I am the original owner. PM me if you are interesed.


----------



## Sinsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, after working all night my SRM-1 sounds it's best. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have had my 323 running for three hours now, and the difference is extreme, there is a fullness to the sound that just isn't there when the unit is cold... I don't like having my electronics running 24/7, but it seems this might be a must with this setup.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sinsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had my 323 running for three hours now, and the difference is extreme, there is a fullness to the sound that just isn't there when the unit is cold... I don't like having my electronics running 24/7, but it seems this might be a must with this setup._

 

The amp only draws about 40w if I remember correctly and if something goes wrong then the fuse simply blows and that is that.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sinsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had my 323 running for three hours now, and the difference is extreme, there is a fullness to the sound that just isn't there when the unit is cold... I don't like having my electronics running 24/7, but it seems this might be a must with this setup._

 

I don't have it on 24/7, but I let it run for several hours (4-6 at least) before doing any critical listening.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have it on 24/7, but I let it run for several hours (4-6 at least) before doing any critical listening._

 

That's not hardcore, Stax mafia style! I run my T1 and 212 24/7 and also the BH at one point. It's good that electricity is cheap here and all heat problems can be solved by opening one window. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do seriously doubt that the new amp will run 24/7 as we are looking at a serious appetite for the juice...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I do seriously doubt that the new amp will run 24/7 as we are looking at a serious appetite for the juice... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

NEW AMP? Whacha got?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NEW AMP? Whacha got? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's in the first stages but will be an upgraded Blue Hawaii not that there will be much Blue Hawaii circuit left...


----------



## audiod

There is a SR-007/SRM-007tII on Audiogon for $2000. That is not a bad price. Look under "new today".


----------



## Vaughn

I've been doing a bit of tube rolling in my SRM-T1 and discovered that some older Sylvania 6CG7's I had in my stash sound much better than the much touted "Gold Aero" tubes that I received with the unit. 

 Does anyone have recommendations regarding best 6CG7/6FQ7?

 Also, a question specifically for Spritzer!

 I noticed you have your T1 in your sig listed as "modded", care to divulge what you did or had done to it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been doing a bit of tube rolling in my SRM-T1 and discovered that some older Sylvania 6CG7's I had in my stash sound much better than the much touted "Gold Aero" tubes that I received with the unit. 

 Does anyone have recommendations regarding best 6CG7/6FQ7?

 Also, a question specifically for Spritzer!

 I noticed you have your T1 in your sig listed as "modded", care to divulge what you did or had done to it?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This has been gone over time and time again so please search the tread. I'm just too tired to type it once again...


----------



## tev

Does anyone know if the SR Lamba Signatures from the late 1980's were good phones? I've heard they have an ultra thin diaphram. What are their comparative sonic traits vs. the typical Stax sound?

 Also, does anyone know how they sound thru a non-stax amp with an adaptor? I have searched Headfi and have little information on this.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's in the first stages but will be an upgraded Blue Hawaii not that there will be much Blue Hawaii circuit left..._

 

Cool. I am also working with my amp designing/ building friend on fully tubed class A amp based on GU50 tubes.


----------



## 2deadeyes

This may be a very stupid question but I'm a total noob to stats. I plan on leaving the 717 on 24/7. Should I leave the headphones plugged in when not listening or unplug them? Will leaving the headphones constantly plugged in the amp with vol pot @ 0 cause damage to the drivers?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 This may be a very stupid question but I'm a total noob to stats. I plan on leaving the 717 on 24/7. Should I leave the headphones plugged in when not listening or unplug them? Will leaving the headphones constantly plugged in the amp with vol pot @ 0 cause damage to the drivers?_

 

It should not damage the drivers. I would unplug them from time to time, since having them plugged in all the time feeds the bias voltage constantly and keeps them charged. I think some people experienced imbalance in one channel after they been plugged in for a very long time, I think spritzer said that can be cured by shorting the pins.


----------



## Faust2D

I have a question. Will SR-001 drive Gamma Pros properly? Does anyone make an adapter to go from SR-001 to normal Stax phones?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 This may be a very stupid question but I'm a total noob to stats. I plan on leaving the 717 on 24/7. Should I leave the headphones plugged in when not listening or unplug them? Will leaving the headphones constantly plugged in the amp with vol pot @ 0 cause damage to the drivers?_

 

I wish you luck but I wouldn't leave any Stax amp on 24/7. These things run way too hot. 

 I looked into my first Stax amp after a few years use, the SRA 12S, which is a pre-amp and headphone amp combined. Because of the preamp feature, the amp was on quite a bit, any time I used the speakers as well as headphones. Parts of the circuit boards were scorched from the heat generated. I also had a number of repair issues. Finally I put a switch into the power line of the headphone amp so I could use the amp only when needed.

 So I think you are inviting both a fire risk and reliabilty problems with 24/7 operation.

 However I do think these systems, all systems in fact, need to be warmed up for best use. I seem to remember that the late Stereo review made an issue that equipment was on for at least a few hours each day before use. This is more critical with stats partly because I suspect there are charge-up issues of the transducers, i.e. it takes some runniing to get the transducers fully charged. As well, these phones are so sensitive and discriminating that you will also be hearing the lack of warm-up of associated equipment.

 Some years back an English reviewer noted that he thought the Stax line needed about 45 minutes to reach best sound, and I feel he had it about right. Let the music play for up to 45 minute before use if the unit hasn't been on for say, a day. If you have used it in the morning, it is probably good to go in the evening.

 I alternate between a 404 and Sigma/404 with the 717 amp. I find if I haven't used one of these phones for a few weeks, that it takes a few days use to reach their best sound. I also leave the phones I am using plugged in at all times, whether the amp is on or not. Possibly this wouldn't matter if I used each set of phones daily as opposed to letting them sit unused for weeks at a time.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sinsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did follow the development on the 717s my self, but I decided to start a notch further down, and bought th 3050II last night.

 Right out of the box, they sound nice enough... but very, the best word I could find for it, anemic.

 Separation of instruments is perfect, as I had expected, but neither detail, midrange, treble or bass is outstanding (Comparing it to a Denon D5000).

 A while back I auditioned these and other Stax-packages quite extenisively, and was very impressed, but the ones I tested were of course thoroughly burned in.

 Can I expect a signifigant improvement over the first few weeks?

 (Without me complaining, the importer I bought them from advised med to let them burn in 24/7 for at least a week.)_

 


 I wouldn't do 24/7 all the time (see above) but a week may be OK. I think the Stax amps benefit from an upgraded power cord and should be plugged directly into the wall (rather than through a power strip). Also contact enhancers such as Progold or Silclear on all the contacts - phones, interconnects and power cords - can give them oomph. 


 You will certainly want to experiment with interconnects. I finally broke down and got a set of silver IC's courtesy of Cantsleep, another headfier, and these really made my 717 sing and rock in a way it didn't before


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tev* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if the SR Lamba Signatures from the late 1980's were good phones? I've heard they have an ultra thin diaphram. What are their comparative sonic traits vs. the typical Stax sound?

 Also, does anyone know how they sound thru a non-stax amp with an adaptor? I have searched Headfi and have little information on this._

 

Feels like you are being ignored, sorry. There is a lot of info and answers in here if you search for it. The Stax you ask about are fantastic sounding, and I am proud to own a pair myself. They seem to be warm and lush with full soundstage and great bass, yet they lose none of the speed, detail or crisp treble typical of the STAX sound. My SR-Lambda and SR-5 gold edition normal bias are also quite nice, but not as full bodied or weighty as the Signature. I put them in my top three headphones, along with my Grado HP-2 and Ultrasone Edition 9. If I had those three I could live without the rest. TheSignature tend to sell for as low as $500 and as high as $700 lately, and are sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. I am also working with my amp designing/ building friend on fully tubed class A amp based on GU50 tubes._

 

Very, very nice tube. One thing to note is that the new BH will not use EL34's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It should not damage the drivers. I would unplug them from time to time, since having them plugged in all the time feeds the bias voltage constantly and keeps them charged. I think some people experienced imbalance in one channel after they been plugged in for a very long time, I think spritzer said that can be cured by shorting the pins._

 

Leaving the phones connected is fine but do keep them under a dust cover. The + bias repels about 85% of all dust but better safe then sorry. 

 The channel imbalance is due to parasitic capacitance messing with the diaphragm and can often be cured by shorting the pins. I always discharge the phones when I unplug them so this has never happened to me. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't do 24/7 all the time (see above) but a week may be OK. I think the Stax amps benefit from an upgraded power cord and should be plugged directly into the wall (rather than through a power strip). Also contact enhancers such as Progold or Silclear on all the contacts - phones, interconnects and power cords - can give them oomph. 


 You will certainly want to experiment with interconnects. I finally broke down and got a set of silver IC's courtesy of Cantsleep, another headfier, and these really made my 717 sing and rock in a way it didn't before_

 

The 717 gets very hot but that also means that he's quicker to reach the optimum temp then say a 323. It shouldn't suffer any damage to the the superior design over the SRA-12S but one never knows. 

 So you've finally joined the silver band wagon? Congrats. Silver and electrostatics is a match made in heaven.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question. Will SR-001 drive Gamma Pros properly? Does anyone make an adapter to go from SR-001 to normal Stax phones?_

 

This should work as the driver design is similar and larger ES drivers are easier to drive then smaller ones.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will certainly want to experiment with interconnects. I finally broke down and got a set of silver IC's courtesy of Cantsleep, another headfier, and these really made my 717 sing and rock in a way it didn't before_

 

Thoroughly agree. Cantsleep uses a very good silver for all his silver ICs and mini-2-minis and at an exceptional price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 It doesn't match the Moon Audio Silver Dragon (solid 99.99% pure silver 26AWG) or Homegrown Audio Silver Lace (also 26AWG) in my systems but I believe cantsleep uses 24AWG (like Grover, I think). But cantsleep's prices are much better than any of these and his construction is very good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Silver and electrostatics is a match made in heaven._

 

Have to agree in principle but balance that with finding the right mix/synergy for your system.

 I use silver wherever it's best (which is most often) but, for instance, I found that with my SRDXPro, as opposed to my tube amps, there was a more even balance with a better warmth from my Apuresound (silver over copper) ICs. 

 Still preferred the Moon Audio/Homegrown Audio Silver Lace options but only marginally with this amp. To my ears the Apuresound sounds better than my other silvers with this amp.

 BTW, Spritzer has posted previously that he use a custom drawn silver that is 28 or 30AWG so I'm sure that at that grade he's getting an even better silver experience. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (i.e. that's why with his wiring he's in 'heaven')


----------



## 2deadeyes

How does one discharge the phones? TIA.

 Also would be appreciated if there was some sort of good practice guideline for maintenance of stats. So far I got:

 *Always keep them under a dust cover when not in use (not charged).


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does one discharge the phones? TIA.
_

 

Put your thumb onto the pins.
 Alternatively you could buy a high-end discharger from me.
 Would set you back, hmmm, lets say $520, ............


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very, very nice tube. One thing to note is that the new BH will not use EL34's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Really? What tubes will it be using?

 I'm going back and forth with the kGSS/BH for an Omega 2 amp. Hopefully more info on the KGST will surface 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Birgir have you heard the GT EL34? They claim they're XF2 replicas.


----------



## Faust2D

I have been listening to my newly acquired Gammas for a bit and found they they sound better and are more comfortable with thin acoustically transparent foam on top of the drivers. The plastic driver protectors pressed on my ears and after a while it became very uncomfortable, also I think my ears were to close to the drivers. I used one leftover sheet of foam from my Floats II, cut it in half and jammed the rectangular pieces of foam under the internal ear pad edges. This lifted the ear-pads a bit and now my ears are protected by thin sheets of foam. I think this will also keep dust out. Looks nice, sound nice and my ears are comfortable now. 

*Now a question: any foreseeable issues with this fix?*


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have it on 24/7, but I let it run for several hours (4-6 at least) before doing any critical listening._

 

Same for me!
 I turn off my tube amplifier each night, and turn it on straight away when I get home from work. No critical listening the first hours or two.

 My speaker amplifier (solid state) have been running 24/7 since I bought it 10 years ago, and it have cause med zero problem so far. It don't run too hot though. As some of the Stax amplifiers do...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tev* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if the SR Lamba Signatures from the late 1980's were good phones? I've heard they have an ultra thin diaphram._

 

Yes, they are considered to be really great.
 I have never heard them myself though. But many of the trusty Stax'en have reported so.


----------



## Duggeh

I've run my SRM-717 for all practical purposes 24/7 for two years. It's never hinted at catching fire. In fact it runs a good deal cooler than my Pass Labs speaker amp.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've run my SRM-717 for all practical purposes 24/7 for two years. It's never hinted at catching fire. In fact it runs a good deal cooler than my Pass Labs speaker amp._

 

With headphones plugged in?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? What tubes will it be using?

 I'm going back and forth with the kGSS/BH for an Omega 2 amp. Hopefully more info on the KGST will surface 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Birgir have you heard the GT EL34? They claim they're XF2 replicas._

 

The tubes aren't locked in stone but there are some strong contenders. I'm not going to name them just yet on the forums as I might need to buy some more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The KGST should be quite good as it will make better use of the 6s4 then the GES can. Also no crappy and overpriced 12AX7's to worry about. 

 The GT's were being released just as I stopped trying to find better tubes then the Mullards so I didn't try them. They may be modeled after the XF2 but I'm guessing they aren't as well made so wont sound the same. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been listening to my newly acquired Gammas for a bit and found they they sound better and are more comfortable with thin acoustically transparent foam on top of the drivers. The plastic driver protectors pressed on my ears and after a while it became very uncomfortable, also I think my ears were to close to the drivers. I used one leftover sheet of foam from my Floats II, cut it in half and jammed the rectangular pieces of foam under the internal ear pad edges. This lifted the ear-pads a bit and now my ears are protected by thin sheets of foam. I think this will also keep dust out. Looks nice, sound nice and my ears are comfortable now. 

*Now a question: any foreseeable issues with this fix?*_

 

There would be no issues with this unless you count better dust protection as a problem. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been trying to force Stax to give me access to the foam they use on the inside of the Lambda earpieces so I can do just that.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With headphones plugged in?_

 

The majority of the time yes. Although after I read the discharging comments when Spritzer first posted them I do it to my Omega 2s from time to time. Not with a set regularity and not very often though. But then they don't sit just charged with no volume. They get used pretty often.


----------



## ericj

These just arrived. The frame is an appaling seventiesish pair of coconut halves and flattened vinyl circum-aural pads - but here's what's inside: 










 Looks somewhat staxish. 

 They do work, they're just unwearable. Considering my options for a transplant.


----------



## spritzer

Those are Stax drivers right down to the copper pins used to hold them together. Can you post some pictures of the whole set?


----------



## ericj

Sure, i can take some more pics. Right now they're disassembled, and i can just take pictures of the parts if that would be ok. The earpads are like the koss oil-filled style, and completely dead. I sorta don't feel like re-assembling them. 

 The drivers fwiw are 2.5 inches in diameter. They have the wrinkly plastic on the front, and the nylon mesh on the back.


----------



## Duggeh

Looks like an SR-3N driver to me.


----------



## Faust2D

Looks exactly like SR-3. Interesting, I thought that Superex made their own drivers.


----------



## ericj

Pretty similar - no texture on the metal ring in the PEP-71 driver - maybe it's equivalent to a regular SR-3?


----------



## Faust2D

SR-3 driver:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, i can take some more pics. Right now they're disassembled, and i can just take pictures of the parts if that would be ok. The earpads are like the koss oil-filled style, and completely dead. I sorta don't feel like re-assembling them. 

 The drivers fwiw are 2.5 inches in diameter. They have the wrinkly plastic on the front, and the nylon mesh on the back._

 

Pictures of the parts would be great so I could see the basic design as well as the looks. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks exactly like SR-3. Interesting, I thought that Superex made their own drivers._

 

They could have bought Stax drivers or simply just copied them. I do think these are either SR-3 or SR-X Mk2 drivers or some version of them.


----------



## minivan

any1 heard of this diy stax amp from japan? read that it cost up to 1.3 million yen

















 some links:
http://staxt2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/6BX7.htm
HeadPhone


----------



## ericj

Some more pictures of the PEP-71 and PEP-79. 

 These are clickable if you feel a need to zoom in. 













 There was originally brown foam covering the drivers. The cardboard ring it was glued to still exists, but the foam is long dead. The brown crud stuck to the grille in the next picture is wha'ts left of it. 





 It's not obvious from this picture but the baffle is attached to the earcup by way of several small spot welds. You have to cut them apart with a knife to get in, so I'm sure I'm the first person to open these. 





 Foam bowl that used to provide a feeble attempt at damping the cup resonance. Totally dead. Turns to dust at a touch. 





 The cardboard ring is backed with some of the same brown foam as used to cover the drivers, and holds down the driver and the felt damper, which is about 1/4" thick. 





 Driver is 'coupled' to the baffle with a 1/8" thick ring of closed-cell foam. 

 The clamps are all pretty much siezed and don't so much unscrew as pivot. 

 Anything else you wanna see?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any1 heard of this diy stax amp from japan? read that it cost up to 1.3 million yen
 http://homepage.mac.com/jo_makoto/craft/phone/phone16.jpg[/IMG]
 http://homepage.mac.com/jo_makoto/craft/phone/phone17.jpg[/IMG]
 http://staxt2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/stax/6BX7_SRPP_STAX_B.JPG[/IMG]
 http://staxt2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/stax/6BX7_SRPP_STAX_A.JPG[/IMG]
 some links:
http://staxt2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/6BX7.htm
HeadPhone_

 

I studied it some years ago and it can be quite expensive to build, especially with all that Tango iron and some quality coupling caps. I'd love to build one someday that is a pretty long line...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some more pictures of the PEP-71 and PEP-79. 

 ...

 Driver is 'coupled' to the baffle with a 1/8" thick ring of closed-cell foam. 

 The clamps are all pretty much siezed and don't so much unscrew as pivot. 

 Anything else you wanna see?_

 

Thanks for the pics. The drivers might be Stax sourced but there is a definitive family resemblance with the PEP-74. The drivers are mounted in a similar way so the first job would be to get rid of all that stuff and mount the driver directly to the baffle and put some force on it with those metal clamps. There were clamps similar to those on the 74 but larger so I could exert more force. 

 Have you tried the old Koss trick of re inflating the earpads with compressed air and sealing the tear with some tape?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the pics. The drivers might be Stax sourced but there is a definitive family resemblance with the PEP-74. The drivers are mounted in a similar way so the first job would be to get rid of all that stuff and mount the driver directly to the baffle and put some force on it with those metal clamps. There were clamps similar to those on the 74 but larger so I could exert more force._

 

That's a possibility but i think the whole frame is better off gone. I think i could modify a koss hv/1 frame to accept these, though i'd need new earpads - something similar to sr-x pads. 

  Quote:


 Have you tried the old Koss trick of re inflating the earpads with compressed air and sealing the tear with some tape? 
 

It turns out they were foam filled.I suppose i could re-fill them but I'm not sure i want to, yaknow?


----------



## tev

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Feels like you are being ignored, sorry. There is a lot of info and answers in here if you search for it. The Stax you ask about are fantastic sounding, and I am proud to own a pair myself. They seem to be warm and lush with full soundstage and great bass, yet they lose none of the speed, detail or crisp treble typical of the STAX sound. My SR-Lambda and SR-5 gold edition normal bias are also quite nice, but not as full bodied or weighty as the Signature. I put them in my top three headphones, along with my Grado HP-2 and Ultrasone Edition 9. If I had those three I could live without the rest. TheSignature tend to sell for as low as $500 and as high as $700 lately, and are sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike._

 

Thanks HeadphoneAddict. I have an opportunity to try the Sigs out, but no dedicated amp is availble. Would I be better getting some type of Stax amp or an adaptor to use with a regular headphone amp? I'll also try searching headfi for answers, but as you know this can like hunting for buried treasure. If you or anyone has an opinion on amping these I'd be grateful.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tev* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks HeadphoneAddict. I have an opportunity to try the Sigs out, but no dedicated amp is availble. Would I be better getting some type of Stax amp or an adaptor to use with a regular headphone amp? I'll also try searching headfi for answers, but as you know this can like hunting for buried treasure. If you or anyone has an opinion on amping these I'd be grateful._

 

The Pro bias adapters (aka transformer) are harder to find than an amp (aka energizer or driver) with pro bias. An SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is a good STAX vintage amp that can be found for $400-500, and it drives the Signatures very well.

 However, I went ahead and tried mine with the normal-bias headphone amp adapter you asked about (SRD-X) which was hooked to my headphone amp (DV336i) and it was not too bad at all. The volume is quieter and the sound is a bit softer and not as hard hitting, but it still has enough power to play to a good volume. The sound does not represent what the signatures are capable of, like when driven at pro bias. I also tried it with an SRD-6 SB liw bias transformer, connected to a 5 watt speaker amp, and the volume was a fair bit lower - so you'd likely want a 15 watt amp to run these with that. 

 I consider both of these a temporary solution while looking for a good deal on an amp.


----------



## pdennis

Just had my first experience with crossfeed!

 Tonight I've breathed new life into my SR-X III's with Canz3D and what seems to be a decent mastering-type equalizer. It absolutely saves some recordings, though it makes others unlistenable or sometimes just a little weird (variations in phase relationships, mixing, etc.) Crossfeed aside, does anyone have a suggestion about where to start experimenting EQ for SR-X III's out of an SRD-7? Right now I have a shelf at 32 and one at 16k, both up about 5 db, and it sounds okay. I know many of you have a lot more experience listening to these 'phones than I do, though of course I will continue to experiment on my own.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a possibility but i think the whole frame is better off gone. I think i could modify a koss hv/1 frame to accept these, though i'd need new earpads - something similar to sr-x pads. 

 It turns out they were foam filled.I suppose i could re-fill them but I'm not sure i want to, yaknow?_

 

You could make an incision on the side, rinse out all of the old foam and make a new foam donut, cut it in half and cram it into the empty housing. The pads are never going to be comfortable though so some other earpads might work or some new housing.


----------



## tev

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pro bias adapters (aka transformer) are harder to find than an amp (aka energizer or driver) with pro bias. An SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is a good STAX vintage amp that can be found for $400-500, and it drives the Signatures very well.

 However, I went ahead and tried mine with the normal-bias headphone amp adapter you asked about (SRD-X) which was hooked to my headphone amp (DV336i) and it was not too bad at all. The volume is quieter and the sound is a bit softer and not as hard hitting, but it still has enough power to play to a good volume. The sound does not represent what the signatures are capable of, like when driven at pro bias. I also tried it with an SRD-6 SB liw bias transformer, connected to a 5 watt speaker amp, and the volume was a fair bit lower - so you'd likely want a 15 watt amp to run these with that. 

 I consider both of these a temporary solution while looking for a good deal on an amp._

 

I really appreciate your effort and report on this. I guess the SMR-1 is really the way to go. Plus finding a used one may be easier than getting an adaptor at this point.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_I have a set of rare Aurex phones in the bag and a Fontek set should be mine soon._

 

Is the HR-1000 out of the bag yet? Howzit sound?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_The earpads are like the koss oil-filled style, and completely dead. I sorta don't feel like re-assembling them._

 

They were foam filled. Yeah, you don't want to re-inflate 'em. Superex wanted an ESP/9 killer, and they came very close, according to _Stereo Review_ test reports of the time, using a measly SR-3 driver! In a completely inappropriate enclosure! Whoa! So by now I'm sure you're casting about for a suitable fosterfone to jam them into. Consider anything, including crude wooden frames, an improvement on the original.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the HR-1000 out of the bag yet? Howzit sound?_

 

It's on its way now after a brief holiday in Switzerland. Should be here in the next week or so.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They were foam filled. Yeah, you don't want to re-inflate 'em. Superex wanted an ESP/9 killer, and they came very close, according to Stereo Review test reports of the time, using a measly SR-3 driver! In a completely inappropriate enclosure! Whoa! So by now I'm sure you're casting about for a suitable fosterfone to jam them into. Consider anything, including crude wooden frames, an improvement on the original._

 

Yeah. I've ruled out my koss HV/1 and HV/X frames as being (1) too small and (X) too crappy. 

 Audatron frame would work, but, *shudder*.


----------



## wualta

But thanks for putting up those photos. My PEP-79! Back from the dead! about sums up my nostalgic frothing. 1974, we hardly knew ye. Ya never forget your first 'stats, ya know? Sigh. Interesting they were really Stax, since my next 'stat was the SR-X.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just that it uses the same PC-OCC cable that was introduced in the Lambda Signature and is used on the SR-303 now._

 

....and the Sigma/404 mod uses the 404 drivers and cable (same wide cable as used in the Lambda Nova Signature, the 404, the 007 and presumably the Omega). That cable is supposed to be slightly better than the thinner cable Spritzer mentioned. Interestingly enough, of the Lambda Signature Series (the Lambda Signature, the Lambda Nova Signature and the 404) Wes Phillips thought that the Lambda Nova Signature sounded the best (he compared the LS and the LNS in the June 1997 issue of Stereophile Stereophile: Stax Lambda Nova Signature electrostatic ear-speaker and the 404 was compared to the LNS here onhifi.com -- Hot Product Archives -- Stax SRS-4040 Signature System II)


----------



## bralk

In 1983 I started out with the SR-Lambda and have since upgraded through Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature and have now been using the SR-007 for some years. I wonder if it´s time for (a worthwhile) upgrade again ?

 I do not have easy access to a Stax dealer and before going abroad I am very interested in a comparison from a seasoned SR-007 owner who has had a chance to compare it to the new model. Or perhaps a link to same.

 So far it seems that the the biggest difference lies in the lambskin ear pads and minor changes to the cable, where it is attached to the ear cups.
 (and perhaps a more sloppy QC)

 I am stlll very pleased with he SR-007 but also receptive to improvement.

 cheers

 PS. The Sennheiser HD 650 in my signature is strictly work related


----------



## AudioCats

I was (finally) placing the connector order to Allied, but it seems that they don't carry the 6 pin plugs any more..... Does anybody know of a source in the US for this kind of plugs?

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_....and the Sigma/404 mod uses the 404 drivers and cable (same wide cable as used in the Lambda Nova Signature, the 404, the 007 and presumably the Omega). That cable is supposed to be slightly better than the thinner cable Spritzer mentioned. Interestingly enough, of the Lambda Signature Series (the Lambda Signature, the Lambda Nova Signature and the 404) Wes Phillips thought that the Lambda Nova Signature sounded the best (he compared the LS and the LNS in the June 1997 issue of Stereophile Stereophile: Stax Lambda Nova Signature electrostatic ear-speaker and the 404 was compared to the LNS here onhifi.com -- Hot Product Archives -- Stax SRS-4040 Signature System II)_

 

With the T1 line of amps and a bias towards a more relaxed sound I think it is easy to prefer the LNS over the other two Signatures. To me Stax simply went too far away from the original Signature and the 404 is a step to rectify that with the SR-SC1 sealing the deal. The original Signature has some issues when used with a T1 as it simply can't drive it properly. They develop the annoying etch and sound edgy and uneven. The LNS is much better behaved but simply sounds boring to me. 

 All TOTL phones use the Wide PC-OCC cable after it was introduced with the SR-Ω in 1993. The SR-Ω is the only phone to use the dark brown version of it though. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In 1983 I started out with the SR-Lambda and have since upgraded through Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature and have now been using the SR-007 for some years. I wonder if it´s time for (a worthwhile) upgrade again ?

 I do not have easy access to a Stax dealer and before going abroad I am very interested in a comparison from a seasoned SR-007 owner who has had a chance to compare it to the new model. Or perhaps a link to same.

 So far it seems that the the biggest difference lies in the lambskin ear pads and minor changes to the cable, where it is attached to the ear cups.
 (and perhaps a more sloppy QC)

 I am stlll very pleased with he SR-007 but also receptive to improvement.

 cheers

 PS. The Sennheiser HD 650 in my signature is strictly work related_

 

The feedback I've been getting is that there isn't much of a change and the SR-007 could even be slightly better due to the no compromise design of the earpads. The difference is pretty minor though and Stax never intended the new model to be an upgrade but rather a further refinement of the old design. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was (finally) placing the connector order to Allied, but it seems that they don't carry the 6 pin plugs any more..... Does anybody know of a source in the US for this kind of plugs?

 Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd just contact WPI to see if they can't sell you directly. If there is some amount required drop me a line as I'll join in with you.


----------



## milkpowder

How did Airbow tweak the SR-404? It wasn't just cryo, was it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How did Airbow tweak the SR-404? It wasn't just cryo, was it?_

 

AFAIK that is the only thing they did.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In 1983 I started out with the SR-Lambda and have since upgraded through Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature and have now been using the SR-007 for some years. I wonder if it´s time for (a worthwhile) upgrade again ?

 I do not have easy access to a Stax dealer and before going abroad I am very interested in a comparison from a seasoned SR-007 owner who has had a chance to compare it to the new model. Or perhaps a link to same.

 So far it seems that the the biggest difference lies in the lambskin ear pads and minor changes to the cable, where it is attached to the ear cups.
 (and perhaps a more sloppy QC)

 I am stlll very pleased with he SR-007 but also receptive to improvement.

 cheers

 PS. The Sennheiser HD 650 in my signature is strictly work related_

 

I own both. My first set of O2II was defective and was replaced by Stax USA.
 There are subtle differences between the two. The O2II takes forever to break in. Search this thread for my many comments during break-in. If I could only own one I probably would keep the original O2. The difference is small. I do like the sheepskin earpads (I plan on upgrading the earpads on my O2).


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The feedback I've been getting is that there isn't much of a change and the SR-007 could even be slightly better due to the no compromise design of the earpads. The difference is pretty minor though and Stax never intended the new model to be an upgrade but rather a further refinement of the old design. _

 

Thanks. This was also my own impression from what I so far has been able to glean from the net. Here in Denmark there are no Stax dealers - I used to deal with SimplyStax in London, before Howard closed shop. 

 cheers


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I own both. My first set of O2II was defective and was replaced by Stax USA.
 There are subtle differences between the two. The O2II takes forever to break in. Search this thread for my many comments during break-in. If I could only own one I probably would keep the original O2. The difference is small. I do like the sheepskin earpads (I plan on upgrading the earpads on my O2)._

 

Thanks. Please keep us posted on the ear pad upgrade. From your description
 perhaps the only upgrade worthwhile.

 cheers


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. This was also my own impression from what I so far has been able to glean from the net. Here in Denmark there are no Stax dealers - I used to deal with SimplyStax in London, before Howard closed shop. 

 cheers_

 

The nearest dealer would be in Oslo or Germany so quite a ways away.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Just curious, is there any danger to wearing stax headphones such as the 4070s with an srdx pro adapter on a commercial airling flight? I recently did this on a flight from nyc to Ft. Lauderdale. Could the change in altitiude have any efftect on the headphones/ Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, is there any danger to wearing stax headphones such as the 4070s with an srdx pro adapter on a commercial airling flight? I recently did this on a flight from nyc to Ft. Lauderdale. Could the change in altitiude have any efftect on the headphones/ Scottsmrnyc_

 

The enclosure is ported into the earpads so all pressure should be equalized so I don't see any risk involved.


----------



## 2deadeyes

I think there may be a slight channel imbalance on my O2 (left channel is sounds slightly fuller than right). It's very subtle but more noticeable @ lower volumes. I left them plugged in and charged since last night. I didn't notice this on day 1 but just this morning. I've already tried discharging them by touching the pins (heard some crackling sounds in both channels) and plugged them back in; the imbalance is still there. Varying the pad position also doesn't help. Any suggestions before I send them back to Stax USA?


----------



## Duggeh

Make sure that the two halfs of the volume dial are actually at the same point.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make sure that the two halfs of the volume dial are actually at the same point._

 

See I wasn't kidding when I said I'm a total noob to stats. That was it and I was wondering what the L/R symbol was for. Thanks Duggeh!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think there may be a slight channel imbalance on my O2 (left channel is sounds slightly fuller than right). It's very subtle but more noticeable @ lower volumes. I left them plugged in and charged since last night. I didn't notice this on day 1 but just this morning. I've already tried discharging them by touching the pins (heard some crackling sounds in both channels) and plugged them back in; the imbalance is still there. Varying the pad position also doesn't help. Any suggestions before I send them back to Stax USA?_

 

Just to make sure..
 You have the SRM-717 volume knob in balance, right? Meaning that you don't feed the left channel more power than the right one.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to make sure..
 You have the SRM-717 volume knob in balance, right? Meaning that you don't feed the left channel more power than the right one._

 

Yea, that was it. I think I may have misaligned the outer knob when adjusting the volume with 1 thumb last night.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yea, that was it. I think I may have misaligned the outer knob when adjusting the volume with 1 thumb last night._

 

As I though.
 Thank god nothing is wrong with your O2.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Indeed. Would've been quite disappointed if a brand new pair of O2II developed channel imbalance after only a few days of use.

 I feel quite relieved and stupid atm.


----------



## ericj

Page 3? The shame!

 Anyhow. A few days ago i finally got around to staxifying Birgir's former Marantz SE-1 and plugging it into, well, Birgir's former staxified Magnavox energizer. 

 After charging it up for a long, long time - they work, and they're quiet. I have to turn up the amp pretty far to get them to make music. 

 Anybody got ideas on what might be wrong with the drivers? I mean now that we've ruled out the Marantz energizer as a problem. 

 I haven't tried them with my SRD-7 yet.


----------



## spritzer

There aren't really that many things that can cause this and they are the bleed resistor for the bias and the resistivity of diaphragm. Have you tried running them by leaching the bias from the Marantz unit? Stax could also have used a slightly wider D/S spacing and 1:50 transformers to make up for it.


----------



## brat

I don't want to bore the headfiers with my own thread and will talk here.

 Yesterday I got Omega 2 Mk2 and 727II.
 Total dissapointment till this time. My dynamic setup fully excells the Stax system in terms of soundstage, instrument "shaping", clarity, naturallness of all acoustic intruments, etc.... total presentation at all.
 The Rachmaninoff's Piano Concertos sound muddy in their louder parts. There is a mellowness at the heavy metal guitars. Jazz acoustics lack presence and bass definition. Sometimes I hear definite "headphone" coloration of vocals and solo instruments....
 I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones. I doubt the _crappy_ Stax amp is the reason of all troubles. Or it is?
 I followed spritzer's advise and changed cables, power sources but in vain.

 I still hope burn-in will change the picture but how far?

 Well maybe I am too extreme but I am a little nervous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omegas ARE NOT BAD! Good detail in the upper midrange, good tonal balance (maybe a little darker). Just they are not what I expected. The absolute superiority is missing.

 I suppose maybe I'm used to the sound of k701 as a result of about 2 years listening.

 So my decision at this time is to let my mind adapt the new headphones and wait. To change the sound. Or my tastes.


----------



## spritzer

The K701 is a horrible headphone so it will take time to unlearn all of the colorations it has imposed on your brain. Still the SR-007 isn't for everybody...


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K701 is a horrible headphone so it will take time to unlearn all of the colorations it has imposed on your brain._

 

A spot of hope! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously: I think k701 is a pretty neutral headphone. My live experiences tell me so
 But it's an off-topic.

 I will fight for my investment!


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd just contact WPI to see if they can't sell you directly. If there is some amount required drop me a line as I'll join in with you._

 

I just betraied the 6-pin Microphone style and ordered some 7 pin Neutrik XLR stuff instead.......

 Hope you guys won't kill me for that


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Yesterday I got Omega 2 Mk2 and 727II.
 Total dissapointment till this time. My dynamic setup fully excells the Stax system in terms of soundstage, instrument "shaping", clarity, naturallness of all acoustic intruments, etc.... total presentation at all.
 The Rachmaninoff's Piano Concertos sound muddy in their louder parts. There is a mellowness at the heavy metal guitars. Jazz acoustics lack presence and bass definition. Sometimes I hear definite "headphone" coloration of vocals and solo instruments....
 I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones. I doubt the crappy Stax amp is the reason of all troubles. Or it is?
 I followed spritzer's advise and changed cables, power sources but in vain. 
 

I think you are tuned in to the sound of your current setup.

 Use the Stax set for a few months and sell it. You will miss it and regret selling it the day after....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A spot of hope! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously: I think k701 is a pretty neutral headphone. My live experiences tell me so
 But it's an off-topic.

 I will fight for my investment! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

One thing to note, have you experimented with the earpads? Their position is crucial. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just betraied the 6-pin Microphone style and ordered some 7 pin Neutrik XLR stuff instead.......

 Hope you guys won't kill me for that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

We might shock you a little bit but we wouldn't kill you... much...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't want to bore the headfiers with my own thread and will talk here.

 Yesterday I got Omega 2 Mk2 and 727II.
 Total dissapointment till this time. My dynamic setup fully excells the Stax system in terms of soundstage, instrument "shaping", clarity, naturallness of all acoustic intruments, etc.... total presentation at all.
 The Rachmaninoff's Piano Concertos sound muddy in their louder parts. There is a mellowness at the heavy metal guitars. Jazz acoustics lack presence and bass definition. Sometimes I hear definite "headphone" coloration of vocals and solo instruments....
 I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones. I doubt the crappy Stax amp is the reason of all troubles. Or it is?
 I followed spritzer's advise and changed cables, power sources but in vain.

 I still hope burn-in will change the picture but how far?

 Well maybe I am too extreme but I am a little nervous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Omegas ARE NOT BAD! Good detail in the upper midrange, good tonal balance (maybe a little darker). Just they are not what I expected. The absolute superiority is missing.

 I suppose maybe I'm used to the sound of k701 as a result of about 2 years listening.

 So my decision at this time is to let my mind adapt the new headphones and wait. To change the sound. Or my tastes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Stax claims that the new O2II takes over 200 hours of break-in. My first set was defective and was replaced. I also think that my O2 sounds more open and airy than the II (but they are close). The 727II is also a little bland and lifeless compared to the 717. I would put in a dynamic CD and put it in repeat mode and let it play for 3 or 4 days before ANY listening. Out of the box they are terrible. After break-in they should lay the K701 to waste. DON'T GIVE UP!


----------



## 2deadeyes

Just curious - what was defective about it?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious - what was defective about it?_

 

They were almost 3 db less efficient than my O2. They also had no deep bass, heavy in the midbass, dark and dull on top. After many hours of break-in they were still bad. Stax USA told me to wait for the next production run (my original O2II was from Stax's first production run) and they would replace them. If you search this thread you can read all about my saga.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax claims that the new O2II takes over 200 hours of break-in._

 

Where do they claim this?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do they claim this?_

 

When I was having problems with my first O2II, Stax USA (Yama's, Inc.) contacted Japan to discuss my problem. Stax Japan told Stax USA that the II would take much longer to break-in than the O2 and that it could take more than 200 hours. I was shocked, but even after that time my first set was still bad. My second set sounded much better fresh out of the box and just kept getting better. If anyone has a O2II give them plenty of time to break-in. If they still don't sound good after the break-in I would contact your dealer. Stax USA was very kind and helpful.


----------



## Downrange

Just a thought - most retailers are letting the original O2s go for a couple hundred less than the new models. I can't say for sure, but I suspect the old ones are AT LEAST as good. Save some bux and get those.

 I found that it takes a short while to learn how to listen to the O2s natural presentation, when one has gotten used to hearing hyped-up, "forward" headphones.
 I still have some trouble going back and forth between my 202s (which are NOT half bad!) and the 02s. Huge difference in presentation - one has to listen "into" the O2s more - but that effort is rewarded.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones._

 

There is hardly unanimity in this forum that electrostats are superior to dynamics or the O2 over other headphones. Was that supposed to be amusing...or are you trying to join the Stax Mafia?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K701 is a horrible headphone so it will take time to unlearn all of the colorations it has imposed on your brain. Still the SR-007 isn't for everybody..._

 

The K701 is far from horrible and one of the more neutral-sounding and least colored headphones I've heard. It sounds very good with a Moon Audio Black Dragon recable and driven by a Zana Deux.

 No headphone is for everybody, and the O2's dark sound will not be everyone's cup of tea.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K701 is far from horrible and one of the more neutral-sounding and least colored headphones I've heard. It sounds very good with a Moon Audio Black Dragon recable and driven by a Zana Deux.

 No headphone is for everybody, and the O2's dark sound will not be everyone's cup of tea._

 

I rank it with the HD650 as these horrible hi-fi headphones that sound "pleasant" and "impressive". Its the whole hi-fi thing that I don't really like.


----------



## majkel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K701 is a horrible headphone so it will take time to unlearn all of the colorations it has imposed on your brain. Still the SR-007 isn't for everybody..._

 

Agreed to each statement in the post above. I was on a meeting last Saturday, and we listened to Accuphase DP800/801 -> SRM-727A -> SR-007. The owner told us that having the choice between the O2II, SR-404 and SR-007 hi finally ended up with the Omega's SR-007. They were better for him than the O2(II), and he totally refused the SR-404 as he agreed its the Edition 9 or GS1000 class but he didn't want that more "dynamic" kind of presentation. On the other hand, _brat_ is right, the Omega's, whichever, are not universal and not for each music genre. Whenever you need roughness, "dirt", unleashed power, you won't get it. Instead there is sweetness, smoothness, continuity, allure ant the like. The Omega's are for certain tastes which people are sure they have such. Otherwise, SR-404 - probably best from both dynamic and electrostatic worlds. They require rather dark source as well. So, these were my 2 cents, driven by Saturday meeting's impressions still present in my head.


----------



## tk3

So what kind of serial numbers do you guys with SR007A have?
 Mine is SZ2-1008, I wonder if that means I got the 1008th, or if they started counting from 1000?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yesterday I got Omega 2 Mk2 and 727II.
 Total dissapointment till this time. My dynamic setup fully excells the Stax system in terms of soundstage, instrument "shaping", clarity, naturallness of all acoustic intruments, etc.... total presentation at all.
 The Rachmaninoff's Piano Concertos sound muddy in their louder parts. There is a mellowness at the heavy metal guitars. Jazz acoustics lack presence and bass definition. Sometimes I hear definite "headphone" coloration of vocals and solo instruments....
 I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones. I doubt the crappy Stax amp is the reason of all troubles. Or it is?
 I followed spritzer's advise and changed cables, power sources but in vain.

 I still hope burn-in will change the picture but how far?_

 

Hopefully a couple hundred playing hours make them closer to what you prefer, and that you grow on them.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what kind of serial numbers do you guys with SR007A have?
 Mine is SZ2-1008, I wonder if that means I got the 1008th, or if they started counting from 1000?_

 

My O2II (SR-007mk2, USA model) is number SZ3-1057. This is my replacement from Stax's second production run.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There aren't really that many things that can cause this and they are the bleed resistor for the bias and the resistivity of diaphragm. Have you tried running them by leaching the bias from the Marantz unit? Stax could also have used a slightly wider D/S spacing and 1:50 transformers to make up for it._

 

Well, I've hooked it up to the magnavox energizer because it's worse on the marantz energizer. 

 I have the marantz repair manual now, though, so i guess i could check the bias circuit and other whatnot in the EE-1 and see if any of the values were mucked about with by whoever had it before you had it.


----------



## brat

Am I the only person here with 727II? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Mine O2Mk2 is SZ3-1089.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Am I the only person here with 727II? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Mine O2Mk2 is SZ3-1089._

 

Nope! I searched the Members List and got a hit for 727II at the member 'JaZZ'.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I've hooked it up to the magnavox energizer because it's worse on the marantz energizer. 

 I have the marantz repair manual now, though, so i guess i could check the bias circuit and other whatnot in the EE-1 and see if any of the values were mucked about with by whoever had it before you had it._

 

Cool, let me know how it works out.


----------



## 2deadeyes

O2II here; serial # is SZ3-1102


----------



## 88Sound

My O2 mk2 is SZ3-1019 . 

 Looks like an early one!


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't want to bore the headfiers with my own thread and will talk here.

 Yesterday I got Omega 2 Mk2 and 727II.
 Total dissapointment till this time. My dynamic setup fully excells the Stax system in terms of soundstage, instrument "shaping", clarity, naturallness of all acoustic intruments, etc.... total presentation at all.
 The Rachmaninoff's Piano Concertos sound muddy in their louder parts. There is a mellowness at the heavy metal guitars. Jazz acoustics lack presence and bass definition. Sometimes I hear definite "headphone" coloration of vocals and solo instruments....
 I don't know where is the problem: There is unanimity in this forum about the superiority of electrostats and especially Omega 2 over all other headphones. I doubt the crappy Stax amp is the reason of all troubles. Or it is?
 I followed spritzer's advise and changed cables, power sources but in vain.

 I still hope burn-in will change the picture but how far?

 Well maybe I am too extreme but I am a little nervous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The Omegas ARE NOT BAD! Good detail in the upper midrange, good tonal balance (maybe a little darker). Just they are not what I expected. The absolute superiority is missing.

 I suppose maybe I'm used to the sound of k701 as a result of about 2 years listening.

 So my decision at this time is to let my mind adapt the new headphones and wait. To change the sound. Or my tastes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've been doing some more listening tonight on the O2 and they're really beginning to open up compared to when I first heard them out of the box. Bass goes deeper and more punchier with some slam. Midrange is significantly smoother. So far, mine have around 75 hours. Keep burning them in! I'm sure your pair will also change for the better.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *majkel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_.... The Omega's are for certain tastes which people are sure they have such. Otherwise, SR-404 - probably best from both dynamic and electrostatic worlds. They require rather dark source as well. So, these were my 2 cents, driven by Saturday meeting's impressions still present in my head. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I like my 404's even better now with silver IC's. I think they are a bargain of currently made Stax phones at about $440.00 from Japan..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been doing some more listening tonight on the O2 and they're really beginning to open up compared to when I first heard them out of the box. Bass goes deeper and more punchier with some slam. Midrange is significantly smoother. So far, mine have around 75 hours. Keep burning them in! I'm sure your pair will also change for the better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They certainly improve the first time.
 I notice improvements for the first 2-300 hours, so you're still not quite there.

 Enjoy!


----------



## spritzer

Now I'm finally a member of the Koss ESP/950 members club as my APS recabled set arrived today. First off it is nuts to use them with a Stax bias supply as the sound is muffled and boomy but with the bias leached from the E/90 they open up and the bass is much more balanced and linear. First impressions are good and they are definitely on par with any one of the Lambdas but that might change as there is something wrong with the phones. There is a bit of a channel imbalance and the left driver has suffered some impact or something. More on that later.

 I also received the Aurex HR-1000 today and it is a cracking little headphone. They were made by Toshiba and are electrets so they come with a small transformer box much like the SRD-4 but unlike the Stax electrets these were high end costing about the same as a SR-Lambda. Photos will have to wait until tomorrow but here are some from our favorite Japanese site. The sound is very midrange centric with with rolled off bass and treble and some bass boom but that could change once I hook them up to a Stax amp. They are also not as open as the Stax SR-X line because they are only partially vented at the back so there is also some backwave colorations present. I have yet to open them up to check what damping was used but the earcups are so thin (8.2mm) that there can't be very much of it. 

 Comfort and build quality is rather good though the cable could be better but they also seem to have been shipped with fabric pads and not pleater which is the norm with planars. 

 I've also received two electrets with transformers built into the cords and normal headphone plugs, Phillips N6325 and Aristona EK400. They are the same headphone with slightly different housings but I'll post more about them later on.


----------



## Duggeh

Nice to finally hear some opinion from you on the Koss Spritzer. I think it's a little wrong that you've gone as long as you have without a set. Excepting the new HE-Audio, is that you heard every stat in production?

 Rik (Digitalmind) has got himself a set of PMB500 stats btw. I'm looking forward to what he has to say about those too.


----------



## spritzer

It turns out that there is no damping on the HR-1000 drivers, just a plastic back with a few 1cm holes in it. I put the mineral wool that I removed from the T-50 in there and the volume dropped considerably and now I have no bass at all and the sound is very nasal. Is is time for some felt or even thin foam team ortho?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice to finally hear some opinion from you on the Koss Spritzer. I think it's a little wrong that you've gone as long as you have without a set. Excepting the new HE-Audio, is that you heard every stat in production?_

 

It was about time thats for sure. The channel imbalance seems to be gone but I'll let them sit over night to be sure. 

 Now I've only yet to hear some older Stax phones and the newer SR-Alpha Pro but I should have one before or after next weekend. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There are some rare and obscure phones like the Sony ECR line that I need to find but all in good time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Rik (Digitalmind) has got himself a set of PMB500 stats btw. I'm looking forward to what he has to say about those too._

 

I'm looking forward to some impressions but those are off my list if they won't fit me like the Floats. Having the front of my head in a wise is not something I enjoy...


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It turns out that there is no damping on the HR-1000 drivers, just a plastic back with a few 1cm holes in it. I put the mineral wool that I removed from the T-50 in there and the volume dropped considerably and now I have no bass at all and the sound is very nasal. Is is time for some felt or even thin foam team ortho?_

 

Based on my recent experience with the PMB-100 ortho, which did the same thing to me - went nasal and bassless with minimal damping on the back of the driver - my suggestion is to try earpads that give a better seal. 

 I am of course assuming that there is no direct path from the back of the driver to the front of the driver other than out the back of the earcup.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Based on my recent experience with the PMB-100 ortho, which did the same thing to me - went nasal and bassless with minimal damping on the back of the driver - my suggestion is to try earpads that give a better seal. 

 I am of course assuming that there is no direct path from the back of the driver to the front of the driver other than out the back of the earcup._

 

The earpads look like they were pleather after all so the SR-X earpads are almost a direct replacement but I don't have any extras as of now. I could also try to remove most of the plastic backing the driver and only leave enough to support the earcups. I'll rip them apart tomorrow and post some pics. 

 The baffle is sealed with the tape that once backed the earpads but it has all dried up and there could be a way through it. Further cleaning will tell me more and I'll make some new glue o-rings. 

 With the Ariston electrets they are pretty bad out of the Corda Aria at full output. There is some acoustic lens over the driver that I will remove and see what it does but the drivers in these phones certainly aren't bad. Maybe cheap electrets could take over the since the orthos are so damn expensive now.


----------



## gimmish

I am ordering a Woo GES but should I get all of the upgrades? Price is really not to bad. Can somebody please explain this list of upgrades to me. I'm just not fluent in this speak. Well, is it worth the extra cash.


 AURICAP 0.22u/400V x 10
 AURICAP 2u/600V x 4
 AURICAP 2.2u/50V x 4 
 Mills-mra12 82k/12W x 2
 Mills-mra12 47k/12W x 4
 Mills-mra5 2.2k/5W x 4
 Mills-mrc50 300/50W x 2
 Sub-total: $680

 The total is $1450 + $50 shipping + $680 upgraded parts = $2180. You can send 50% deposit to get your amp started.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The earpads look like they were pleather after all so the SR-X earpads are almost a direct replacement but I don't have any extras as of now. I could also try to remove most of the plastic backing the driver and only leave enough to support the earcups. I'll rip them apart tomorrow and post some pics._

 

Koss HV/X pads should work, then, if you wanted to go cheap. They're $5 shipped in the US - if they hassle you about shipping to iceland i can mail you one of the three pair i just ordered. 

  Quote:


 The baffle is sealed with the tape that once backed the earpads but it has all dried up and there could be a way through it. Further cleaning will tell me more and I'll make some new glue o-rings. 
 

Yeah, couldn't hurt. Sometimes these seem to be little things that add up to be enough. And sometimes it turns out to be a waste of time. 

  Quote:


 With the Ariston electrets they are pretty bad out of the Corda Aria at full output. There is some acoustic lens over the driver that I will remove and see what it does but the drivers in these phones certainly aren't bad. Maybe cheap electrets could take over the since the orthos are so damn expensive now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Aint that the truth.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am ordering a Woo GES but should I get all of the upgrades? Price is really not to bad. Can somebody please explain this list of upgrades to me. I'm just not fluent in this speak. Well, is it worth the extra cash.


 AURICAP 0.22u/400V x 10
 AURICAP 2u/600V x 4
 AURICAP 2.2u/50V x 4 
 Mills-mra12 82k/12W x 2
 Mills-mra12 47k/12W x 4
 Mills-mra5 2.2k/5W x 4
 Mills-mrc50 300/50W x 2
 Sub-total: $680

 The total is $1450 + $50 shipping + $680 upgraded parts = $2180. You can send 50% deposit to get your amp started._

 

The Auricap parts are as you could have guessed capacitors and a good improvement over the stuff that is in the stock amp. The Mills parts are non-inductive wire wound resistors and cost a few $ each. These parts should give you a more transparent amp with less musical information last due to cheap parts. All upgrades to the GES are bound to be expensive due to the large number of parts involved. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Koss HV/X pads should work, then, if you wanted to go cheap. They're $5 shipped in the US - if they hassle you about shipping to iceland i can mail you one of the three pair i just ordered._

 

If the SR-X pads are a bust I might take you up of that. The pads on the other electrets I got are also a possible replacement since they are about the right size and still nice and soft. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, couldn't hurt. Sometimes these seem to be little things that add up to be enough. And sometimes it turns out to be a waste of time._

 

Even a small baffle leak can ruin the phones so it's something I'll try. I'd love to get these up and running at full steam as an alternative to the SR-X Pro. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aint that the truth._

 

It has almost come to the point where all discussion of older greats should be kept off the open forums...


----------



## spritzer

A further update on the lowly TRS electrets. Since they were cheap as dirt I only wanted the drivers and to get them out of those awful housings. As it turns out my instincts were correct since the drivers are huge and sound pretty good driven by a SRM-212 in open air. Being electrets threy work with any transformer box ever made so we coul have something cheap and good on our hands. No nasty little transformers to much up the sound and no crappy dynamic amps... I'll reterminate the Phillips later today and report back. Cheap electrets FTW!


----------



## Faust2D

Sounds interesting. How big are these drivers? How do these compare to Stax electrets? Any pics?


----------



## spritzer

Success!! I replaced the earpads on the Aurex with donor pads from the Aristona and I have deep, controlled bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All they needed were solid pleather pads and and airtight seal to the baffle. 

 Now some pics:

























_Click for a larger one_

 The bass is much better and the midrange is a tad more forward but the new earpads have revealed some hardness in the upper midrange and treble that wasn't there before. This could be due to the adapter but I can't be sure until I make a converter cable over to the Stax standard. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds interesting. How big are these drivers? How do these compare to Stax electrets? Any pics?_

 

The drivers are a whopping 81mm in diameter with the backplate in place. Thats about the same size as the SR-007 driver... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They should be capable of plenty of bass in the right enclosure but royally suck in the stock one. I'll try to remove one later on without butchering the baffle but here are some pics of the back side. They were undamped and the back of the enclosure is solid except for a few vents. 








 A simple metal or wood baffle should be enough for them with a nice wood enclosure controlling the back wave. I haven't done any comparisons with the Stax electrets but they aren't as big as this and not as well damped structurally so these should be even better.


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I'm finally a member of the Koss ESP/950 members club as my APS recabled set arrived today. First off it is nuts to use them with a Stax bias supply as the sound is muffled and boomy but with the bias leached from the E/90 they open up and the bass is much more balanced and linear._

 

Please explain what is leaching bias and how you leached bias from the e/90.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please explain what is leaching bias and how you leached bias from the e/90._

 

You borrow the bias from some other device with a special adapter cable that splits the Stax plug in two so the drive voltage and bias voltage are separate. They thus be used with two different sources or in this case the E/90 is giving the bias while the T1 is driving the stators.


----------



## educator

Where can I get a cable like that?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where can I get a cable like that?_

 

Nowhere that I'm aware of. I've made a couple for me and a friend but I don't know of any others.


----------



## Duggeh

Maybe Alex would cobble up such a cable on request. Would probably cost a few pennies though.


----------



## spritzer

It appears that the electret drivers I'm using as test beds suffer some channel imbalance but with the earcup removed and with some old SR-Omega pads held by friction alone the sound isn't really all bad. It is a bit bright and nasty so some damping is needed with a stronger baffle and some clamping of the drivers. Now I need to break open the Phillips to try the drivers to see if there is any imbalance. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe Alex would cobble up such a cable on request. Would probably cost a few pennies though._

 

It's certainly not hard to do, some spare 1000v wire and 3 connectors is all that is needed.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_They were undamped and the back of the enclosure is solid except for a few vents._

 

Wow! No wonder there was no bass. I'd expect a screechy treble as well. I assume you've removed that brass-colored back plate. Thanks for the great photos. Keep us posted. 

 Next, you gotta get an HR-910 for comparison.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! No wonder there was no bass. I'd expect a screechy treble as well. I assume you've removed that brass-colored back plate. Thanks for the great photos. Keep us posted. 

 Next, you gotta get an HR-910 for comparison._

 

I kept the plate as one of the solder points is on it and I have to remove the driver in one piece to see what it is connected to. I also opened up the Phillips N6325 and the driver mounting is different but it is the same driver. It's also much easier to open up and work with then the Aristona but the problem is that there are 4 conductors in front of the small transformer module but only 3 leading up to the phones. That means a new cable... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The rest of the Aurex line is on my hit list as well as other rare beasts...


----------



## Faust2D

HP-1000 looks great, and that driver is huge! Nice score spritzer! So many interesting headphones, so little time and money.


----------



## ericj

I'm as surprised as anybody that Koss has apparently been manufacturing a cheap and effective planar-compatible pad for so many years. The HV/X is a terrible headphone so it's no surprise that we've never paid it much attention. 

 From left to right - Realistic Pro 30 with NOS original pads, Pro 30 wearing lightly used HV/X pads, and SR-X III with brand new pads: 





 And here's the Pro 30 w/ HV/X pad in profile with the SR-X III:


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HP-1000 looks great, and that driver is huge! Nice score spritzer! So many interesting headphones, so little time and money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Time is certainly a factor but at 15€ these phones are had to beat for modding. Single pole electret is a rather novel idea that has been largely ignored by us... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm as surprised as anybody that Koss has apparently been manufacturing a cheap and effective planar-compatible pad for so many years. The HV/X is a terrible headphone so it's no surprise that we've never paid it much attention._

 

Thanks for the comparison. It's good to know of a cheap set of earpads that works on these vintage planars.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also received the Aurex HR-1000 today and it is a cracking little headphone. They were made by Toshiba and are electrets so they come with a small transformer box much like the SRD-4 but unlike the Stax electrets these were high end costing about the same as a SR-Lambda._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Success!! I replaced the earpads on the Aurex with donor pads from the Aristona and I have deep, controlled bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All they needed were solid pleather pads and and airtight seal to the baffle. 

 Now some pics:

 The bass is much better and the midrange is a tad more forward but the new earpads have revealed some hardness in the upper midrange and treble that wasn't there before. This could be due to the adapter but I can't be sure until I make a converter cable over to the Stax standard._

 

I thought you were cutting back! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Congratulations though, with a special pair of headphones.

 Those drivers certainly are large, compared to other electrets out there. Which I am quite sure will make an impact on the sound quality. Especially in the lower frequencies.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HP-1000 looks great, and that driver is huge! Nice score spritzer! So many interesting headphones, so little time and money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

..the availability limit us as well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought you were cutting back! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Congratulations though, with a special pair of headphones._

 

I am cutting back but this is only the tip of the iceberg. I just got an email telling me that the 22kg delivery from Rinkya just entered customs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think a more normal flow of headphones is needed so I must sell some now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those drivers certainly are large, compared to other electrets out there. Which I am quite sure will make an impact on the sound quality. Especially in the lower frequencies._

 

The driver must be large ans they are single ended or unipolar. The second solder lug is ground but by driving them push-pull we can get a more linear response or that is the theory at least. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..the availability limit us as well._

 

If I were after common headphones then I'd just buy a HD650 and be like everybody else. The thrill of the chase is like a drug and fixing them up is also a huge part of the enjoyment. 

 I do suggest that the ESP950 gets more of an attention around here. I may be even worse built then the Lambdas but the sound is clear, linear (if a bit forward and a bit diffused like the Lambdas. They can exert too much pressure on the top of the head but the earpads are quite good even if they don't look like much. They are also easy to drive and sound great out of the T1.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am cutting back but this is only the tip of the iceberg. I just got an email telling me that the 22kg delivery from Rinkya just entered customs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think a more normal flow of headphones is needed so I must sell some now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's quite a bit.
 Guess most of the incoming gear are vintage Stax, where you just simply act as a middle-man between the Japanese market and the western one (mostly Head-Fi members).

 Stop buying new items can be hard. Cutting down even harder.
 I have had luck with #1 (4-5 months since I bought the previous one), but so far no luck with #2 (they all have their special place). You might have more luck than me though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I were after common headphones then I'd just buy a HD650 and be like everybody else. The thrill of the chase is like a drug and fixing them up is also a huge part of the enjoyment._

 

There are a certain joy owning and enjoying rare items.
 But having the eager to buy one, with no luck finding it is not quite that fun. Like those SR-Omega's I have been looking for the last 12+ months...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's quite a bit.
 Guess most of the incoming gear are vintage Stax, where you just simply act as a middle-man between the Japanese market and the western one (mostly Head-Fi members).

 Stop buying new items can be hard. Cutting down even harder.
 I have had luck with #1 (4-5 months since I bought the previous one), but so far no luck with #2 (they all have their special place). You might have more luck than me though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's mostly for me this time but some items I'll sell again such as SRM-1 amps and stuff like that which I picked up as well. Paying 400$ for shipping did sting a bit though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Buying new stuff for me is hard as there is frankly not a lot out there to buy. The HE1.2B doesn't interest me much (even though I've got the perfect replacement cable for them...) and I'll buy the SR-007A some day but there is no rush. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are a certain joy owning and enjoying rare items.
 But having the eager to buy one, with no luck finding it is not quite that fun. Like those SR-Omega's I have been looking for the last 12+ months..._

 

Blah, 12+ months is nothing!!! Lets talk again in 36 and see how much it stings. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just to make you feel a bit worse I installed some NOS earpads on mine yesterday...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Blah, 12+ months is nothing!!! Lets talk again in 36 and see how much it stings. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just to make you feel a bit worse I installed some NOS earpads on mine yesterday... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You're bad! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 .
 .

 I will try to be patient.
 Some day I might get lucky, scoring one for a decent amount of money. Just like you did last year..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're bad! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 .
 .

 I will try to be patient.
 Some day I might get lucky, scoring one for a decent amount of money. Just like you did last year.._

 

Patience does indeed pay off. Look for them in Germany and Japan as most of them ended up there.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do suggest that the ESP950 gets more of an attention around here._

 

Glad to have you join the ESP950 fan club. I agree that they do sound good on the T1 (and the SR-007t).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- 

 I do suggest that the ESP950 gets more of an attention around here. I may be even worse built then the Lambdas but the sound is clear, linear (if a bit forward and a bit diffused like the Lambdas. They can exert too much pressure on the top of the head but the earpads are quite good even if they don't look like much. They are also easy to drive and sound great out of the T1._

 

I like my 950's driven from a Stax SRM-3. I don't find them boomy in the bass and now that I am using silver IC's, I think they are rather nicely balanced tonally. However I do get some audible distortion at high bass volumes on a few records, which I suspect is the result of the lower Stax bias. Maybe one day I will try your trick of borrowing the E-9's bias. 

 I will be curious to see if you find any other good mods for them.

 I wish Koss would just try making a better amp for these. The phones themselves are pretty respectable.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to have you join the ESP950 fan club. I agree that they do sound good on the T1 (and the SR-007t).
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are very good from the Stax amps but I'll try to find some time and fire up the Blue Hawaii over the weekend and see how much they like the ample power. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like my 950's driven from a Stax SRM-3. I don't find them boomy in the bass and now that I am using silver IC's, I think they are rather nicely balanced tonally. However I do get some audible distortion at high bass volumes on a few records, which I suspect is the result of the lower Stax bias. Maybe one day I will try your trick of borrowing the E-9's bias. 

 I will be curious to see if you find any other good mods for them.

 I wish Koss would just try making a better amp for these. The phones themselves are pretty respectable._

 

My whole system is silver wired so we have that in common but they are simply slow and fat sounding on the 580v bias (could be a different load resistor at work as well???) but they are light on their feet with the Koss bias. 

 I'll have to rip them apart to see if there is anything that can be done to them but the housing is better made then the Lambdas so some damping to the back screen could improve something but only time will tell.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However I do get some audible distortion at high bass volumes on a few records, which I suspect is the result of the lower Stax bias._

 

Yes, I think it's the bias too. When I use them with Pro Bias I always give them plenty of warm-up time and, even then, I have experienced (once) what you're mentioning. But when used regularly they hold the bias charge as well as other ESPs.

 I've also experienced this with spritzer's old ESP-6s (Normal Bias) so I've generalised to think this may be a Koss attribute - taking some time to build up and hold a charge.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My whole system is silver wired so we have that in common but they are simply slow and fat sounding on the 580v bias (could be a different load resistor at work as well???) but they are light on their feet with the Koss bias. 

 I'll have to rip them apart to see if there is anything that can be done to them but the housing is better made then the Lambdas so some damping to the back screen could improve something but only time will tell._

 

Always interested in hearing your ideas, spritzer.

 I find the 950s more than listenable on 580v bias, definitely a step-up from the Lambda 404 etch (
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 - now I have experienced it I know what people have been referring to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 I agree the 950s can be fat sounding from a tube amp (particularly the EA-4) but on my bedside SRD-XPro (which is Apuresound, not strictly silver, IC-ed) I've found them to be most enjoyable.

 BTW, there was a seperate thread for them around here somewhere...


----------



## jigster

erm... is it me or has Audio Cubes II disappeared? Wanted to get some Omega II replacement earpads but can't seem to find their webby. Anyone knows?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_erm... is it me or has Audio Cubes II disappeared? Wanted to get some Omega II replacement earpads but can't seem to find their webby. Anyone knows?_

 

It's just you. 

Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's just you. 

Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products_

 

Haha... I thought so too. Kept thinking that their website was "www.audiocubesii.com" .... duh....

 Thanks..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do suggest that the ESP950 gets more of an attention around here._

 

Another 'stat getting some love from the 'stat-master. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have had my eyes on the ESP950 for several months. Might end up buying one some day, as that seems like the only way for me to audition one.

 We will see...


----------



## jigster

Are the earpads for the 4070 the same ones that the 404 uses?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I think it's the bias too. When I use them with Pro Bias I always give them plenty of warm-up time and, even then, I have experienced (once) what you're mentioning. But when used regularly they hold the bias charge as well as other ESPs.

 I've also experienced this with spritzer's old ESP-6s (Normal Bias) so I've generalised to think this may be a Koss attribute - taking some time to build up and hold a charge._

 

Koss uses a far more conductive coating then Stax so they need much more bias but this also makes them easier to drive. This is also why Stax self bias units aren't a problem as the phones can stay charged for 20 minutes but the Koss bleeds out in 5 minutes or less

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Always interested in hearing your ideas, spritzer.

 I find the 950s more than listenable on 580v bias, definitely a step-up from the Lambda 404 etch (
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 - now I have experienced it I know what people have been referring to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 I agree the 950s can be fat sounding from a tube amp (particularly the EA-4) but on my bedside SRD-XPro (which is Apuresound, not strictly silver, IC-ed) I've found them to be most enjoyable.

 BTW, there was a seperate thread for them around here somewhere..._

 

They are supposed to be even better at 620v so I'll have to try that out when I build the bias modules for my new amp. 

 The Lambda etch is a problem and can only really be rectified with a new housing and a more powerful amp. So who is good with CAD or woodworking and can make new housings for us... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another 'stat getting some love from the 'stat-master. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have had my eyes on the ESP950 for several months. Might end up buying one some day, as that seems like the only way for me to audition one.

 We will see..._

 

At 700$ with an amp they are hard to beat. Add to that a lifetime warranty and gets even harder to deny. They are really good at rocking out, so good in fact that I'm thinking about selling my spare SR-Lambda...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the earpads for the 4070 the same ones that the 404 uses?_

 

Yes they are.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the earpads for the 4070 the same ones that the 404 uses?_

 

I am quite sure they are.
 At least I don't see any difference between them.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda etch is a problem and can only really be rectified with a new housing and a more powerful amp. So who is good with CAD or woodworking and can make new housings for us... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm no woodworking master (few people are compared to people like Steve or Larry). But I know my way around and I'd give a wooden housing for a lambda a go even only as practice for a wooden housing for the AMT.

 All the gear I'd need is back home though. Maybe over the summer, got to build myself a new wardrobe anyway and thats bound to generate some spare materials.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm no woodworking master (few people are compared to people like Steve or Larry). But I know my way around and I'd give a wooden housing for a lambda a go even only as practice for a wooden housing for the AMT.

 All the gear I'd need is back home though. Maybe over the summer, got to build myself a new wardrobe anyway and thats bound to generate some spare materials._

 

Cool. I could maybe make some out of bread and put some lacquer on it...


----------



## Duggeh

Haha. Just use play-dough. That sets pretty hard. Then you put a honey glaze on, so that every time you wear your new headphones theres a sweet and pleasant smell.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha. Just use play-dough. That sets pretty hard. Then you put a honey glaze on, so that every time you wear your new headphones theres a sweet and pleasant smell. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Who needs the smell of leather when you have glazing...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. I could maybe make some out of bread and put some lacquer on it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You will need to use really dense dough.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I find the 950s more than listenable on 580v bias, definitely a step-up from the Lambda 404 etch ....._

 

Really? Good thing I didn't go for the 404.....


----------



## gimmish

I just ordered my GES this afternoon in black with all upgraded parts. Now I have to wait 3-5 weeks. I am not very good at patience. I can hardly wait to post my first impressions when it arrives.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just ordered my GES this afternoon in black with all upgraded parts. Now I have to wait 3-5 weeks. I am not very good at patience. I can hardly wait to post my first impressions when it arrives._

 

3-5 weeks will be over real quick. Ive been waiting since November for my new CDP to be upgraded...


----------



## edstrelow

Someone just bought an untested Stax SRM1MK2 amp on Ebay for $23.50!
STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 Headphone Amplifier - eBay (item 200203586023 end time Feb-29-08 17:46:53 PST)

 I had sent a question to the seller to see whether it would light up when turned on. When he finally replied yes, I checked the listing and saw it had ended early. Makes no sense to me - GRRRRRRRRR.

 I would have paid at least $25.00 for it.


----------



## Faust2D

It's also a C serial number unit, should be very good if it works. I wanted to bit on it but forgot about it


----------



## AudioCats

I don't believe somebody will "end the auction early to sell it to high bidder" for $23, there is probably some kind of under-the-table deal going on, the $23 is just for lower final value fees......


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Koss uses a far more conductive coating then Stax so they need much more bias but this also makes them easier to drive. This is also why Stax self bias units aren't a problem as the phones can stay charged for 20 minutes but the Koss bleeds out in 5 minutes or less:_

 

I found that some of the discharge problem with the ESP6 and 9's was due to shorting from the circuit boards in the cups, especially onto the deteriorated foam that the old units tend to have.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda etch is a problem and can only really be rectified with a new housing and a more powerful amp. So who is good with CAD or woodworking and can make new housings for us... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




:_

 

The etch problem with Lambda Nova and 404 went away for me when I started using Silclear contact enhancer everywhere. Honest! 

 However I am sure better housing could make these sound better. I was thinking how good it would be to have a Sigma design with super-rigid, non resonant housing. Anyone want to try this as a cottage industry? Just use the lambda drivers and cables with your own housing.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At 700$ with an amp they are hard to beat. Add to that a lifetime warranty and gets even harder to deny. They are really good at rocking out, so good in fact that I'm thinking about selling my spare SR-Lambda... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

But what good is the amp for except to get the bias for the 950? Even my SRM3's, which I know you don't like, sound lots better than the Koss E-9 amp.
 The E-9 amp got better using a bench power supply but still the Stax amp was much better.


----------



## Akathisia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone just bought an untested Stax SRM1MK2 amp on Ebay for $23.50!
STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 Headphone Amplifier - eBay (item 200203586023 end time Feb-29-08 17:46:53 PST)

 I had sent a question to the seller to see whether it would light up when turned on. When he finally replied yes, I checked the listing and saw it had ended early. Makes no sense to me - GRRRRRRRRR.

 I would have paid at least $25.00 for it._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's also a C serial number unit, should be very good if it works. I wanted to bit on it but forgot about it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Man, I'll never get a sweet deal from eBay with you guys around. You guys watch it like hawks... 

 I guess I'll just have to spend even more time on the computer


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone just bought an untested Stax SRM1MK2 amp on Ebay for $23.50!
STAX SRM-1/Mk-2 Headphone Amplifier - eBay (item 200203586023 end time Feb-29-08 17:46:53 PST)_

 

If its works properly, then someone certainly made a bargain.
 Cause a good condition SRM-1/MK2 usually sell for $3-400. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akathisia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I'll never get a sweet deal from eBay with you guys around. You guys watch it like hawks... 

 I guess I'll just have to spend even more time on the computer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He he
 Yes, its hard to get sweet eBay deals these days. Since a lot of us Head-Fi'ers keep a close eye on it, driving the price up if needed.

 I have scored a couple of nice deals myself, so it certainly can be done.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have scored a couple of nice deals myself, so it certainly can be done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So have I, but the SRD-7 MkIIs continue to elude me: I suppose I'm just not willing to go up into the €100s for them!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that some of the discharge problem with the ESP6 and 9's was due to shorting from the circuit boards in the cups, especially onto the deteriorated foam that the old units tend to have._

 

I've never used any Koss phone that hasn't been cleaned and every solder connection repaired so I wouldn't know but Koss used a metalized coating that is highly conductive. That means it needs a steady stream of bias while Stax only needs a small amount. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The etch problem with Lambda Nova and 404 went away for me when I started using Silclear contact enhancer everywhere. Honest! 

 However I am sure better housing could make these sound better. I was thinking how good it would be to have a Sigma design with super-rigid, non resonant housing. Anyone want to try this as a cottage industry? Just use the lambda drivers and cables with your own housing._

 

The baffle can also be used since it is aluminum but the rest needs to be thrown away. The 404 drivers are much more capable then any of the former models so I have no doubt that an upgraded housing will make them shine. I really don't understand why Stax doesn't release a 100k Yen Lambda with an aluminum housing and the 4070 arc assembly. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But what good is the amp for except to get the bias for the 950? Even my SRM3's, which I know you don't like, sound lots better than the Koss E-9 amp.
 The E-9 amp got better using a bench power supply but still the Stax amp was much better._

 

As a donor for bias it isn't half bad since it is small and light but the phones are the real stars.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Someone should buy this now:

STAX SR3 EARSPEAKERS + SRD6 ENERGIZING UNIT - eBay (item 160213908254 end time Mar-05-08 19:33:48 PST)

 I already have a pair of SR-3 (two SR-5 gold) and an SRD-5/6/7, or I would jump on it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So have I, but the SRD-7 MkIIs continue to elude me: I suppose I'm just not willing to go up into the €100s for them!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Then you will need to be patient.
 Cause it seems like their current going price are about x2 of what you are willing to pay.

 I paid noticeable less than €100 for mine though, so it can certainly be done.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then you will need to be patient.
 Cause it seems like their current going price are about x2 of what you are willing to pay.

 I paid noticeable less than €100 for mine though, so it can certainly be done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ditto. The current going price is well north of 200$ and shows no signs of stopping.


----------



## Nikita

PriceJapan.com

  Quote:


 Voltage 100V only 
 

???


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nikita* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PriceJapan.com
  Quote:


 Voltage 100V only 
 

???_

 

You have just found an error on their page.
 Cause the SR-404 don't hook up directly to the mains, and hence the voltage specification don't belong there. They take 580 volt bias supply though...


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then you will need to be patient.
 Cause it seems like their current going price are about x2 of what you are willing to pay.

 I paid noticeable less than €100 for mine though, so it can certainly be done._

 

Yes, it's quite easy.
 Just enter your time machine and ..........
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_ The current going price is well north of 200$ and shows no signs of stopping._

 

That's true.
 I've paid way less than $100 for my first Pro transformer about 2 years ago.
 Last year I thought it would be good to have a spare transformer and looked for a cheap one.After 9 months I gave up and had to pay slightly more than $200.
 On the other hand at the current exchange rate $200 isn't that much.Crappy dollar.Measuring value in USD gets more odd every day.We could as well quote value in pesos or rupees .......
 And : the transformers are still worth it even at the inflated prices IMO.
 The current going price for dedicated amps for electrostats clearly outperforming my loudspeaker amp/SRD combination is well north of $1500 and shows no signs of stopping.
 The $1500 KGSS is discontinued and I bet the successor will cost $2000.
 If the americans lose another war or two $2000 might be the equivalent of 14 Euros though and more than affordable ............


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the americans lose another war or two $2000 might be the equivalent of 14 Euros though and more than affordable ............_

 

I really hope that comment was in good humor.


----------



## Duggeh

I think that everyone has to learn at some point that you don't mention the war.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really hope that comment was in good humor._

 

It was.
 Actually I'm one of the 11 remaining central europeans that is still liking the american empire.You've brought us democracy and freedom.Thank you.

 Edit:I've just read you are stationed in Iraque.Good luck.
 Kirkuk is kurdish northern Iraque, isn't it?
 Well, then your chances to survive the mess in one piece are quite good.


----------



## Gradofan2

And... I'm one of 11 American's that really appreciate the declining value of the dollar. It's an economic phenomenon, not a geo-political one. 

 It's to be expected as other nations develop economically, and the demand for their assets, goods, services and currencies increase relative to the those of the US and developed nations. Their relative price levels increase, and our relative price levels decline - towards an "equalibrium," or balance.

 The one exception... to this point... is China, which doesn't allow its currency to float against the dollar.

 And... it's a veritable economic boom for US manufacturers and exporters (e.g. Boeing, Cat, Deere, Ford, Cargill, Farmers, etc.) who export to other nations. We've actually got manufacturing jobs returning (relatively) to the US, and our balance of trade is rapidly improving. As these trends continue the dollar will firm, reach a base, and, perhaps increase a bit... but... longer term it will reach a "parity" with other currencies.

 It's "Econ 101."


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It was.
 Actually I'm one of the 11 remaining central europeans that is still liking the american empire.You've brought us democracy and freedom.Thank you.

 Edit:I've just read you are stationed in Iraque.Good luck.
 Kirkuk is kurdish northern Iraque, isn't it?
 Well, then your chances to survive the mess in one piece are quite good._

 

It is Kurdish but there is still a large Arab influence. But it is the least violent area of the country. Might be stepping out on a limb but I would say it's safer than Detroit or New Orleans minus the roadside bombs. 

 I was here when this mess kicked off, in the middle, and now. Things really have changed and I actually can see it getting better.


----------



## edstrelow

Ahem, getting back to the topic of headphones, are there any silver headphone cable upgrades for Stax phones? I am in the middle of changing over to silver IC's and possibly power cords and so far I haven't seen any offerings for Stax although I was just reading a review of such an upgrade for Sennheisser dynamics.


----------



## Duggeh

You mean upgrade the headphone cable?

 Theres no point, the one Stax makes is the best there is. You can't apply the same type of cable to electrostatic headphones as you do to dynamics.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean upgrade the headphone cable?

 Theres no point, the one Stax makes is the best there is. You can't apply the same type of cable to electrostatic headphones as you do to dynamics._

 

The best at the moment but .....there is always room for improvement.
 I'm really suprised that more cable manufatures have not taken a stab at it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The best at the moment but .....there is always room for improvement.
 I'm really suprised that more cable manufatures have not taken a stab at it._

 

Most headphone manufacturers don't actually know anything about the technical side and since we are dealing with very high voltages it is a rather difficult matter. I'm sure a company like Acrolink could produce a cable but they could even make the stock cable for Stax, who knows. Since I'm well aware what PC-OCC silver costs I wouldn't want to pay for that headphone cable...


----------



## facelvega

heads up, there's a pretty good buy-it-now price on an SR-3 / SRD-6 right now on the auction site-- $127 shipped for both in good condition with claimed excellent earpads.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_heads up, there's a pretty good buy-it-now price on an SR-3 / SRD-6 right now on the auction site-- $127 shipped for both in good condition with claimed excellent earpads._

 

Is that the same one I posted here at 11:22PM last night?


----------



## Duggeh

I got my SR-3N setup for £15 IIRC.

 It sold for just slightly more.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is that the same one I posted here at 11:22PM last night? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

oops, just when I think I've caught up with all the new posts. And yeah no kidding, Duggeh, it's silly how much the market has gone up on these. Now that we've made all those old models so easily googleable, I don't know if we'll ever see a bust again.


----------



## Duggeh

I don't see myself buying anymore vintage stats from here on anyway. I've heard all the ones that I've had an interest in except the SR-Omega.

 The orthodynamic front is still a lot quieter than the Stax one for price inflation though. Hopefully it can stay that way.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I am pretty much done with vintage too, but if the right SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Signature turned up at a good price I might be obliged to consider buying a spare. 

 My 10yr old son "the audiophile" uses the Lambda Pro and one of the two SR-5 Gold that we have, and he may end up with a spare SR-001 someday.


----------



## spritzer

I just got a large shipment of Stax stuff today and amongst the amps, adapters and cans was the dirtiest SR-Sigma (or any other phone) that I've ever seen. So bad in fact that I had to strip them down to the bare chassis and soak the chassis and then scrub is like a mad man. Despite all this the drivers work just fine (great even) and I have a SR-404 that I've been meaning to sell so should I take one for the team and make a SR-Sigma 404 and a new normal bias Lambda in the process?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a large shipment of Stax stuff today and amongst the amps, adapters and cans was the dirtiest SR-Sigma (or any other phone) that I've ever seen. So bad in fact that I had to strip them down to the bare chassis and soak the chassis and then scrub is like a mad man. Despite all this the drivers work just fine (great even) and I have a SR-404 that I've been meaning to sell so should I take one for the team and make a SR-Sigma 404 and a new normal bias Lambda in the process? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, of course you should 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Looks like you'll be selling a few more Stax items shortly for the benefit of the team as well! LOL.

 Have fun with creating those two ESPs.!


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a large shipment of Stax stuff today and amongst the amps, adapters and cans was the dirtiest SR-Sigma (or any other phone) that I've ever seen. So bad in fact that I had to strip them down to the bare chassis and soak the chassis and then scrub is like a mad man. Despite all this the drivers work just fine (great even) and I have a SR-404 that I've been meaning to sell so should I take one for the team and make a SR-Sigma 404 and a new normal bias Lambda in the process? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Create the Sigma-404 and then bake that non-plastic Lambda housing!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a large shipment of Stax stuff today and amongst the amps, adapters and cans was the dirtiest SR-Sigma (or any other phone) that I've ever seen. So bad in fact that I had to strip them down to the bare chassis and soak the chassis and then scrub is like a mad man. Despite all this the drivers work just fine (great even) and I have a SR-404 that I've been meaning to sell so should I take one for the team and make a SR-Sigma 404 and a new normal bias Lambda in the process? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cryo all the parts before you reassemble them


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I could use a spare normal Bias Lambda for my son - he keeps begging me for one, says he'll give up allowance between now and the 5th grade...


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a large shipment of Stax stuff today and amongst the amps, adapters and cans was the dirtiest SR-Sigma (or any other phone) that I've ever seen. So bad in fact that I had to strip them down to the bare chassis and soak the chassis and then scrub is like a mad man. Despite all this the drivers work just fine (great even) and I have a SR-404 that I've been meaning to sell so should I take one for the team and make a SR-Sigma 404 and a new normal bias Lambda in the process? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Spritzer, you know you want to LOL


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, of course you should 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Looks like you'll be selling a few more Stax items shortly for the benefit of the team as well! LOL.

 Have fun with creating those two ESPs.!_

 

Now that I've slept on it I think it would be fun. It's a shame to rip apart a brand new headphone but it should be well worth it. 

 Now I've only got to figure out how Stax jumpered the voltage switch on the back of these two SRM-1 Mk2 amps I have so I can convert them to either 120v or 240v. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could use a spare normal Bias Lambda for my son - he keeps begging me for one, says he'll give up allowance between now and the 5th grade..._

 

After the conversion I'll have 3 SR-Lambdas so at least two will be up for grabs.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After the conversion I'll have 3 SR-Lambdas so at least two will be up for grabs._

 

I call dibs on one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, if I don't raped over the price... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any SRD-X Pro in there?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I call dibs on one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, if I don't raped over the price... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any SRD-X Pro in there?_

 

I have no idea about the price but it should be around the 300$ mark. 

 Nope, no SRD-X Pro. 

 Now I'll go back to making the double sided glue pieces for the Sigma 404...


----------



## spritzer

One SR-404 normal bias is up and running and the Sigma is ready for assembly. Are there any better things to do on a cold Tuesday morning...


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I've only got to figure out how Stax jumpered the voltage switch on the back of these two SRM-1 Mk2 amps I have so I can convert them to either 120v or 240v. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Do you have amps without the external jumper slide switch?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have amps without the external jumper slide switch?_

 

Yup. Stax simply jumpered it on the inside with wires for 100v and put a plastic plate over the socket on the back. Now I have to figure out what wires need to be jumpered for the other voltages. Does anybody have a Stax voltage selection plug in front of them and a multimeter handy so they could measure how each pin is connected internally?

 Btw. SR-Sigma 404 up and running and playing on my head. I'll post some pictures later on and some pictures of the process. First impressions are rather good...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have no idea about the price but it should be around the 300$ mark. 

 Nope, no SRD-X Pro. 

 Now I'll go back to making the double sided glue pieces for the Sigma 404... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll start seeing if anybody wants to buy my SR-Lambda Pro...


----------



## Saltuk

Hi everyone,
 2 weeks ago I recieved my first stax system .The 2050A , had been cooking them with pink noise for abaout 250 hours and finally tried them yesterday .
 They are simply the best 500$ I have ever spent on audio. Actually they are better for classical music than my 10k+ speaker based home system (excluding soundstage). There is one thing that I did not like: The protective foams inside the earcups slightly touches my eartips and they are too sharp/rough so I ripped them out , now it is perfect and probably the sound improved a little. 
 I believe the earpads are comfortable but they are not real leather and inner side of the pads are not straight as a wall like the omegas and it may be negatively effecting the sound.
 I am planning to create new earpads using tempur foam with leather covering, while doing so I will make the pads 4-5mm thicker and will probably give them more angle through the rear to increase soundstage(or should I angle them through front more?)

 Had it been tried before? Any suggestions?


----------



## spritzer

Here come the pictures I promised. I'm not much for taking pics every 3 minutes but I snapped the important ones. Before anything like this could be done I put a lot of hours into ripping the SR-Sigma apart, cleaning it thoroughly and removing any glue residue that was left over. That is a nasty, time consuming job and leaves you with very sore fingers and no fingernails. I didn't do any mods to the original design so the drives are out of phase like they are supposed to be and I even replaced the glue that holds the damping material in place and provides a better seal. 




 SR-Sigma and SR-404 drivers side by side. It's startling how much things have changed in 30 years... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Here are most of the parts that make up the headphones. The damping material was still drying out after the cleaning treatment and the arc was still in pieces after a thorough cleaning. Also missing is all the glue needed to mount the drivers and the damping material. 




 The cable has been fitted and glued in place, drivers mounted to the metal baffles and all the glue to hold the damping material is in place. 




 Drivers soldered to the cable and damping material fitted. The only issue is that the soldering connections for the bias are now facing the baffle and thus useless so I had to be creative. It would be possible to solder the cable before the drivers are mounted to the baffle but it would be much tougher to work with. 




 Here they are ready with the "left over" SR-Lambda. I used Sigma earpads but Yamasinc has used Lambda pads for some reason in the past. I know that the Stax factory uses Sigma pads for this job so I went with that. I haven't had much time to play with them but first impressions are positive and they outclass the SR-Sigma Pro, that's for sure.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. Stax simply jumpered it on the inside with wires for 100v and put a plastic plate over the socket on the back. Now I have to figure out what wires need to be jumpered for the other voltages. Does anybody have a Stax voltage selection plug in front of them and a multimeter handy so they could measure how each pin is connected internally?_

 

Birgir, this has been a labour of love: you've been so helpful to me and so many others here that I felt obliged to take the mains selector out of my SRM-1 Mk2 and have found the electrical links you need (sorry, I can't do the fancy picture-in-the-post-itself thing you've just done!):

SRM-1 Mk2 Pin view

SRM-1 Mk2 Selector panel view

 The only tricky part is that the 2 drawings are left/right reversed with respect to each other, so you'll find out good your visual-spatial intelligence is over the next few hours!

 I hope the way it works is clear: there are 6 pairs of sockets, and 5 pairs of pins, the red arrow on pic A indicates the white arrow which needs to line up against the voltage being selected on pic B (so, for example, the third pair of sockets in pic B are connected by the middle pair of pins to get 240v).

 Phew!

 PS Now that the selector's out, what are the pro/cons of connecting it as 220v (now that here in the UK we're 230v)?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Sorry, duplicate post.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, this has been a labour of love: you've been so helpful to me and so many others here that I felt obliged to take the mains selector out of my SRM-1 Mk2 and have found the electrical links you need (sorry, I can't do the fancy picture-in-the-post-itself thing you've just done!):

SRM-1 Mk2 Pin view

SRM-1 Mk2 Selector panel view

 The only tricky part is that the 2 drawings are left/right reversed with respect to each other, so you'll find out good your visual-spatial intelligence is over the next few hours!

 I hope the way it works is clear: there are 6 pairs of sockets, and 5 pairs of pins, the red arrow on pic A indicates the white arrow which needs to line up against the voltage being selected on pic B (so, for example, the third pair of sockets in pic B are connected by the middle pair of pins to get 240v).

 Phew!

 PS Now that the selector's out, what are the pro/cons of connecting it as 220v (now that here in the UK we're 230v)?_

 

Thank you very much. That saved my an hour and a half to dig the T1 out of the rack and rip it to shreds just to measure the plug. Could you also post the color of the wires on the socket? I think Stax might have altered them as well.

 To insert a picture first right click the picture and select "Copy image location" then you click this button 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 that is over the massage area and a box pops up where you paste the location of the picture. If you want to use a clickable picture link like I did in the above post use this code: [*url=][*img][*/img][*/url] (remove the *) Paste the pictures address between the img square brackets and the link goes after the = sign and before the square bracket right after it.

 Edit: I always run my amps at 240v as the line voltage here is about 234v but I've never spent much time comparing it. If you use the higher option you will be placing less stress on the various parts but the sound can change, maybe for the better.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you very much. That saved my an hour and a half to dig the T1 out of the rack and rip it to shreds just to measure the plug. Could you also post the color of the wires on the socket? I think Stax might have altered them as well._

 

Birgir, I'm sorry to let you down, but I just can't see clearly enough where the wires are going from the trafo to the socket: frustratingly my eyes and the light are just not good enough to see exactly what goes where.

 Looking at the socket from inside the SRM-1 Mk2, and numbering the connecting pin sockets top or bottom row, nos. 1 to 6 (left to right), then I can see the following:

 Green to top 2
 Grey to bottom 6
 Purple to bottom 5
 White seems to connect top 1 to bottom 5
 A link wire seems to go from top 4 to top 5

 Sorry, but I'm just unable to discern clearly whether the other wires go to the top or bottom row, or even their colour, and what other links there may be within the socket itself.

 If nobody else has sorted it out by tomorrow, I'll have another look in daylight, or maybe what I've given you here will be enough to work it out...

 (And thanks for the info on picture posting!)


----------



## spritzer

No problem. There is no rush on this but it would be great to have this information online for future reference and so I can reconfigure my amps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a picture of the voltage selector from a T1W and it has some different connections from the one in my SRM-1's and those wires you told me match the T1W picture.


----------



## John Buchanan

Birgir, it looks like Yamasinc flipped the drivers when assembling mine i.e. the 404 driver surface that is normally glued to the 404 mounting plate has become the surface not glued to the Sigma mounting plate and faces inside the Sigma housing. The side of the driver that comes with the double-sided mounting tape is visible inside the driver cage facing away from the mounting plate with the paper still covering the sticky surface and ready to be peeled off. So, they must have turned them around to allow soldering (which is logical really as the mounting surface faces away from your ear on the Sigmas and towards your ear on all the other Stax headphones).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, it looks like Yamasinc flipped the drivers when assembling mine i.e. the 404 driver surface that is normally glued to the 404 mounting plate has become the surface not glued to the Sigma mounting plate and faces inside the Sigma housing. The side of the driver that comes with the double-sided mounting tape is visible inside the driver cage facing away from the mounting plate with the paper still covering the sticky surface and ready to be peeled off. So, they must have turned them around to allow soldering (which is logical really as the mounting surface faces away from your ear on the Sigmas and towards your ear on all the other Stax headphones)._

 

So the metal grill part of the driver faces into the earcup of the Sigma instead of facing the ear like on the Lambdas? That is how the Sigma was built originally so the drivers were reversed on the Lambda when they borrowed the drivers. They could have just assumed they were made to be put on the other way around. I have some pictures of Stax Japan conversion job (the phones were on Yahoo! last year) and I have the drivers in the exact same spot as they did so I assume they also wired them out of phase. I also followed the cable arrangement they came up with and it works great. 

 If you begin with soldering the bias pin and then mount the driver then soldering the stators is easy. It's a shame I figured this out only after I had mounted the drivers to the baffle... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now that I've had some time with them they are a clear improvement over the Sigma Pro. They are always so distant sounding while these are much more intimate. The soundstage isn't as artificial either so better controlled and more solid. The treble is a large step up, much more open and filled with the small detail and transient we all love. Even the T1 can make them sing so they aren't hard to drive (haven't tried the BH yet) but the bass is still hollow and slightly boomy but much better then the old models.


----------



## John Buchanan

Birgir, I'm hoping that by "wired out of phase" means that the absolute phase of both drivers is inverted, NOT that only one of the drivers has the phase inverted and they are out of phase with each other!
 And yes, the metal grille appears to face into the earcup, so I guess if they wanted to preserve absolute phase, they would have to invert the phase of the connections - I'm guessing that is to compensate for a phase inversion during reflection off the housing compared with the Lambdas direct injection into the ear canals.
 The Sigma 404 does appear to be an improvement over the original Sigma (less boomy bass and big treble increase without any etch at all). I'm not so happy with the dynamics of this phone compared with either the Lambda Nova Signature or the Omega SR-007, but otherwise it is buttery smooth and makes vocals a pleasure to listen to.


----------



## edstrelow

Glad to hear you like the Sigma/404. Like John Buchanan, I assume you are talking about an issue of absolute phase, rather than the 2 drivers being out of phase with each other. 

 I think the Sigma/404 is a great phone, but then I like all three Sigmas. The best way for me to describe them is sounding like a Sigma pro with a bit of the 404 sonic signature; without the etch of the 404 but with all the ambience and forward projection of the Sigma. 

 I especially like them with vocals, opera and choral music. While they don't have the power of the various Lambdas, all the Sigmas rock pretty well, better than their corresponding Lambda models.

 Odd that the Sigma was the original design and the Lambda evolved from it. Also that the 404 driver works well in other applications such as this and the 4070.


----------



## spritzer

Yes, they are both out of phase not that it is a huge problem on planar drivers. I tried them with a cheater plug I made (simply reverses the + and - on each channel) and didn't notice much of a difference. 

 The metal grill is facing inward to protect the driver from probing objects, much the same as it does on the SR-Lambda. It also pushes the diaphragm closer to the baffle and away from the ears. The driver can face either way so that isn't an issue. 

 Stax usually designed the drivers so they could be used on some other platform as well such as the SR-5 driver that morphed into the SR-X Mk3 driver and found its way into a lot of different phones over the years. 

 They do lack the explosive dynamics of the Omega line but I wont be sure until I warm up the Blue Hawaii. The SR-Sigma is literally transformed when fed enough power so the same thing could happen here.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem. There is no rush on this but it would be great to have this information online for future reference and so I can reconfigure my amps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I have a picture of the voltage selector from a T1W and it has some different connections from the one in my SRM-1's and those wires you told me match the T1W picture._

 

I found these photos on my HDD: hope they help (as they say round these parts: a picture is worth a thousand words... )
















 (My first go at posting snaps in a posting! It's so easy when you know how! Thanks for the info on how to do it: TBH I don't know why I'd not worked it out for myself!)


----------



## spritzer

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you very much. Stax did change the wiring and I can change it back now. I'll study the pictures and post my findings when I'm done.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here come the pictures I promised. 
 <snip>
http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/ma...53c7c439831aae
 SR-Sigma and SR-404 drivers side by side. It's startling how much things have changed in 30 years... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/ma...53c7c439831aae
 Here are most of the parts that make up the headphones. The damping material was still drying out after the cleaning treatment and the arc was still in pieces after a thorough cleaning. Also missing is all the glue needed to mount the drivers and the damping material. 

http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/ma...53c7c439831aae
 The cable has been fitted and glued in place, drivers mounted to the metal baffles and all the glue to hold the damping material is in place. 

http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/ma...53c7c439831aae
 Drivers soldered to the cable and damping material fitted.
 <snip>

http://www.head-case.org/gallery2/ma...53c7c439831aae
 Here they are ready with the "left over" SR-Lambda.
 <snip>_

 

Nice transformation, for sure! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Another Stax 'phone I have not heard, but are really tempted to give a go.


----------



## spritzer

Ok it looks like I've cracked it and my SRM-1 Mk2's are playing off 230v. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 First off the disclaimer. This is live AC voltage you are working with so do this at your own risk. If you do not know what you are doing have somebody that does take a look at it. While I've tested the 240v and 117v versions and it works fine this is posted without any responsibility on my part for any damage due to Stax changing the design at some point. This works with my two C-series SRM-1 Mk2's and my B-series SRM-T1. This is only intended for those amps that didn't ship with a voltage selector plug. If it did come with one... then use that then! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








 The picture above is how the rear of the socket should look like but Stax often changed them around to have the component only for one voltage. If it reads 100v (or 117v, 230v etc.) only on the back and there is no plug in the voltage selector socket odds are that the socket is wired differently. It needs to be changed to the above configuration or the amp can catch fire or worse. 

 Since there are two white wires I marked them on the picture, AC power in and from transformer. The AC power comes from the power switch and is in the upper row. It is connected to 3 pins while the other white wire is in the bottom row and only connected to one pin. That one is connected to the primary of the transformer. The only other pin that has more then one connection is the gray one. You can connect to any of the joined pins as they are all the same. 

 Here is the list. You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connection per voltage with either two or three different colors. 

*240v* configuration

 Gray + Purple
 AC power in + Blue

*220v* configuration

 AC power in + Blue
 Green + Gray

*117v* configuration

 Blue + Purple + AC power in
 White + Gray

*100v* configuration

 AC power in + brown + green
 Gray + White


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, they are both out of phase not that it is a huge problem on planar drivers. I tried them with a cheater plug I made (simply reverses the + and - on each channel) and didn't notice much of a difference. 
_

 

Generally absolute phase is not going to be detectable. I have a Denon DCD3000 cd player with a phase switch and I generally can't tell any difference between either setting. On a rare occasion you might think you hear some difference in a transient, such as cymbal crash. Here I think the transient could be effected by phase because an initial compression of the sound wave would be replaced by a rarefaction and this could sound different. 

 Of course you have no guarantee that the recording process preserves phase or that all the microphones or tracks in any particular recording had the same phase. 

 It's one of those stimulus characteristics that could be significant in a few situations but in practice is probably not.


----------



## niels

Have to sneak in a question.
 I had a Signature II system, but sold it ! Now I am thinking about Stax again, but, the prices are horrific here so I thought about buying somehwere else, AudioCubes, NeedleDoctor, whatever really.
 But, my question, the SRS-4040 II system comes with the 006tII (or seem to have the 006tA some places) and I was wondering, my 006t had a voltage switch on its rear panel, but on the Stax netsite I dont see this switch on the 006t II. Anyone knows anything ?
 On the AudioCubes site it says it comes with an adaptor, but I would rather not have that.
 We have 230 volts here.


----------



## krmathis

niels. Stax amplifiers sold in Japan (though PriceJapan, EIFL, Audio Cubes II, ...) are set to 100 volt, with no easy way to alter this. Hence the need of a voltage converter to use with out 230 volt mains.

 Stax amplifiers used to have a switch/jumper on the back, to select your local voltage. But Stax removed it some years back, in an attempt to protect their international dealers from the Japanese grey market.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Generally absolute phase is not going to be detectable. I have a Denon DCD3000 cd player with a phase switch and I generally can't tell any difference between either setting. On a rare occasion you might think you hear some difference in a transient, such as cymbal crash. Here I think the transient could be effected by phase because an initial compression of the sound wave would be replaced by a rarefaction and this could sound different. 

 Of course you have no guarantee that the recording process preserves phase or that all the microphones or tracks in any particular recording had the same phase. 

 It's one of those stimulus characteristics that could be significant in a few situations but in practice is probably not._

 

A few of my sources have had phase switches but it doesn't make much of a difference to me. My only concern is that the drivers are firing away from the ear but it doesn't seem to matter. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have to sneak in a question.
 I had a Signature II system, but sold it ! Now I am thinking about Stax again, but, the prices are horrific here so I thought about buying somehwere else, AudioCubes, NeedleDoctor, whatever really.
 But, my question, the SRS-4040 II system comes with the 006tII (or seem to have the 006tA some places) and I was wondering, my 006t had a voltage switch on its rear panel, but on the Stax netsite I dont see this switch on the 006t II. Anyone knows anything ?
 On the AudioCubes site it says it comes with an adaptor, but I would rather not have that.
 We have 230 volts here._

 

You can alter the voltage but Stax has made it a whole lot harder to do. With more and more gray imports they dropped the plug you mentioned and I'm talking about in the post above in favor of a fuse board with metal bars instead of the fuses. There was no color coding on the wires to make it even harder to figuer out the correct setup. Now they've abandoned the fuses in favor of a PCB where the wires are soldered. They will even cut the extra wires away at the transformer so the transformer has to be opened up to replace the wires.


----------



## edstrelow

I just tried the trick of "borrowing" the bias from the Koss E-9 while driving my 950's from a Stax SRM3. It didn't actually help. In fact signal levels actually dropped and distortion on loud passages increased.

 Evidently the overload distortion I hear with the 950 SRM3 is not the result of the bias being a bit lower with the Stax amp.

 I generally don't hear distortion with rock/pop music but it is more evident in loud classical passages. I wonder if the classical music sucks more bias, possibly because the loud passages are generally more sustained whereas the rock passages have fairly short bursts of loudness such as drum beats?

 Maybe it's not a bias issue at all, but some sort of impedance mismatch?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just tried the trick of "borrowing" the bias from the Koss E-9 while driving my 950's from a Stax SRM3. It didn't actually help. In fact signal levels actually dropped and distortion on loud passages increased.

 Evidently the overload distortion I hear with the 950 SRM3 is not the result of the bias being a bit lower with the Stax amp.

 I generally don't hear distortion with rock/pop music but it is more evident in loud classical passages. I wonder if the classical music sucks more bias, possibly because the loud passages are generally more sustained whereas the rock passages have fairly short bursts of loudness such as drum beats?

 Maybe it's not a bias issue at all, but some sort of impedance mismatch?_

 

One question, did you have a source connected to the E/90? When I tried it with my Blue Hawaii I lost all bias as there wasn't any input connected to the Koss amp so there must be a sensing circuit that drops the bias when no signal is flowing. I haven't opened it up yet but that would be my guess.


----------



## niels

Okay, I am going to check out dealers in germany then, maybe, just maybe....
 I can always buy the phones themselves in Japan, and the amp in Europe.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I am going to check out dealers in germany then, maybe, just maybe....
 I can always buy the phones themselves in Japan, and the amp in Europe._

 

Stax SR-404s pop up from time to time on German eBay (without the SRM-006T amp) and you can then use them with the older (and according to many around these parts, better) SRM-1/Mk2 amp, which turns up quite regularly in Germany, Netherlands and the UK eBays.

 My main Stax rig is the 404s driven by the SRM-1/Mk2, and this combo is a step up from the 3030 II system (303s and 313 amp); I can firmly recommend this combination, especially for the price (mine cost about €420, you might have to pay a bit more now, but it would still be a lot less pricey and risky than importing from Japan). (Risky in terms of potential extra duty and import charges, but I don't know how hot the Norewegian customs are on this kind of thing!)


----------



## Nikita

Hello,

 Aren't the Stax earspeakers dangerous ?
 With the electrostatic technology, hundreds volts pass through the phones... Isn't dangerous ?


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nikita* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 Aren't the Stax earspeakers dangerous ?
 With the electrostatic technology, hundreds volts pass through the phones... Isn't dangerous ?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Ah, yes, extremely dangerous - just look at the damage evident by who posts in this thread...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nikita* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 Aren't the Stax earspeakers dangerous ?
 With the electrostatic technology, hundreds volts pass through the phones... Isn't dangerous ?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Only if you listen while taking a shower 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been listening to electrostatic headphones since the late 60's without a single shock. I don't think that Stax would be in business if it posed a heath risk. Just enjoy them!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nikita* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 Aren't the Stax earspeakers dangerous ?
 With the electrostatic technology, hundreds volts pass through the phones... Isn't dangerous ?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






_

 

Don't lick the drivers and you will be fine.


----------



## Nikita

Thanks !


----------



## Duggeh

I lick my Omega 2 drivers every month to keep them dust free.


----------



## Johnny Blue

I wonder where this'll end up...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I lick my Omega 2 drivers every month to keep them dust free._

 

Your gf is a lucky girl 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 P.S. I could not help myself here.


----------



## ericj

Finally decided i oughta just take a good picture and share it with you folks. I'd been trying to get my scanner working so that i could put the whole manual online, but i think it's dead. 

 So, here we go, the Marantz EE-1 schematic. 






 What's interesting is that it's not remarkably dissimilar from the SRD-7 schematic. The 5M bias resistor isn't too far from the SRD-7 4.7M bias resistor, for example. The voltage regulation, if you can call it that, is a little different. 

 I'm interested in any comments the peanut gallery may have, though.

 Edit: ok, R3 and R6 don't exist in the SRD-7. And neither do C1 and C2.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I lick my Omega 2 drivers every month to keep them dust free._

 

Indeed!


----------



## spritzer

You are right about the extra caps and resistors but also notice the extra 10M (R7)on the bias line. There is the culprit why they don't like to play ball with other stats.


----------



## ericj

How the heck did i miss R7 . . . Thanks for pointing that out. 

 fwiw they kinda sorta work on the SRD-7 but are less sensitive than my SR-X III and don't sound so good, and the right side is quieter. 

 I guess all that's left is for me to open up the EE-1 and start checking values.


----------



## ericj

By the way, the manual suggests that for testing the transformer, applying a 3vac RMS 1khz signal to the primary should result in about a 200vpp signal at the secondary. My math puts that at a ratio of about 1:47


----------



## brat

I leave the Stax threads untill STAX USA replace ( or repair ) my SR-007mk2.
 After many A/B comparisons and listening tests I decided that my SR-007mk2 + SRM-727II just can't sound so bad without any break-down. Compared to my k701 system the staxes have no detail, sound flat, muddy, tensely, lifeless, unnaturally, ........
 What I've read about electrostats this is not normal. In past few weeks I've written many posts trying to clarify if this is a question of personnal tastes or a technical problem ( thank all here! )and finally I've came to conclusion that _there is_ a problem.
 I still don't know what's wrong - defective phones, a defective amp or a crappy amp ( this possibility would be an awfull for my opinion of STAX products) but I must eliminate the possibility of SR-007mk2 being imperfect.
 I hope STAX USA will be sensible


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How the heck did i miss R7 . . . Thanks for pointing that out. 

 fwiw they kinda sorta work on the SRD-7 but are less sensitive than my SR-X III and don't sound so good, and the right side is quieter. 

 I guess all that's left is for me to open up the EE-1 and start checking values._

 

I'd start with breaking it open and check if everything is ok. I'd also like to know what the cap and resistor are doing on the secondary. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, the manual suggests that for testing the transformer, applying a 3vac RMS 1khz signal to the primary should result in about a 200vpp signal at the secondary. My math puts that at a ratio of about 1:47_

 

1:47.6 is what I'm getting but I've forgot the exact RMS->P-P multiplier. The larger bleed resistor coupled with a higher step up ratio could mean that Stax used larger spacing here then with other normal bias headphones.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax SR-404s pop up from time to time on German eBay (without the SRM-006T amp) and you can then use them with the older (and according to many around these parts, better) SRM-1/Mk2 amp, which turns up quite regularly in Germany, Netherlands and the UK eBays.

 My main Stax rig is the 404s driven by the SRM-1/Mk2, and this combo is a step up from the 3030 II system (303s and 313 amp); I can firmly recommend this combination, especially for the price (mine cost about €420, you might have to pay a bit more now, but it would still be a lot less pricey and risky than importing from Japan). (Risky in terms of potential extra duty and import charges, but I don't know how hot the Norewegian customs are on this kind of thing!)_

 

Niels, how about these?

Stax SR-404 Signature Elecrostatic Earspeakers

Stax SRM1 MK 2 Elecrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Could be just what the Stax doctor ordered!


----------



## J-Pak

Ye olde times hifi can sound good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Loving the SR-Lambda, just like I remembered


----------



## spacemanspliff

sigh

 Ok, I have a small issue. I got a great deal on some Lambda Pros but only have a SRD-5 to power them. Seems like I just missed Spritzers SRD-7 sale lol. What else can I use to power them within $200 or so? How much is the SRD-5 worth?

 Anyone want to trade?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I leave the Stax threads untill STAX USA replace ( or repair ) my SR-007mk2.
 After many A/B comparisons and listening tests I decided that my SR-007mk2 + SRM-727II just can't sound so bad without any break-down._

 

Hopefully its broken (not that a broken device is fun), and that you have not heard the SR-007MK2 at its potential. Of course it might just be you who prefer the K701 over O2, but I really don't think so either...
 Hopefully you get a fast turn-around. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ye olde times hifi can sound good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Loving the SR-Lambda, just like I remembered 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Vintage bliss!


----------



## niels

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Niels, how about these?

Stax SR-404 Signature Elecrostatic Earspeakers

Stax SRM1 MK 2 Elecrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Could be just what the Stax doctor ordered!_

 

Thank you. I was looking at E-Bay germany, and there they were even more expensive than in Norway! Anyway, think I will sell my speakers, listening through a pair of Stax makes any speaker dead meat anyway!
 I really enjoyed my Signature II system, and the jaw just dropped on the guy who came to buy it when he heard it.
 The only thing I maybe could have wished for was a bit more bass slam, but hey, one never gets satisfied.....
 I had brand new Raytheon tubes in the amp by the way....


----------



## gimmish

I just sold my srm-T1 and now I have no place to plug my O2 for a few weeks until my GES is ready. The evenings will seem awfully long, I might have to spend some time with my wife. Or I can use my portable rig and catch up on some of the hundreds of Grateful Dead shows I have downloaded.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just sold my srm-T1 and now I have no place to plug my O2 for a few weeks until my GES is ready. The evenings will seem awfully long, *I might have to spend some time with my wife*. Or I can use my portable rig and catch up on some of the hundreds of Grateful Dead shows I have downloaded._

 

Crikey, chaps, surely there's something that can be done to help gimmish out here, give him a BH or KGSS to tide him over...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *niels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you. I was looking at E-Bay germany, and there they were even more expensive than in Norway! Anyway, think I will sell my speakers, listening through a pair of Stax makes any speaker dead meat anyway!_

 


 Have a look at this seller:

eBay Shop - HIGH END CASQUE: Wir verkaufen Headphone Amps Ampli Casque, Headphones Casque, DAC.

 cheers


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I leave the Stax threads untill STAX USA replace ( or repair ) my SR-007mk2.
 After many A/B comparisons and listening tests I decided that my SR-007mk2 + SRM-727II just can't sound so bad without any break-down. Compared to my k701 system the staxes have no detail, sound flat, muddy, tensely, lifeless, unnaturally, ........
 What I've read about electrostats this is not normal. In past few weeks I've written many posts trying to clarify if this is a question of personnal tastes or a technical problem ( thank all here! )and finally I've came to conclusion that there is a problem.
 I still don't know what's wrong - defective phones, a defective amp or a crappy amp ( this possibility would be an awfull for my opinion of STAX products) but I must eliminate the possibility of SR-007mk2 being imperfect.
 I hope STAX USA will be sensible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Do you not have any other Stax phones or amps to do checks on the phones or amp separately from each other?

 What are you running the amp from, cd player, dac, what IC's? Do you have the right voltage set-up on the amp? I.E. is it set for a higher voltage than you are running it? If you bought from the USA it should be set for 117 volts.

 If the OO7 Mk2 is not defective, I might be prepared to take that off your hands, if I could listen to check it out. I don't need the amp however.


----------



## ueyteuor

guys, what the difference between the sr212 amp, and the sr252? any performance difference or is it just the voltage (japan/us)?


----------



## Downrange

If I recall correctly, the SRM-252 has an additional input that can be selected - maybe minor circuitry differences, as well. I have the 212, and very happy with it.
 \
 Brat: I've heard others complain about the 727 amp. Try it with another amp before giving up.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, what the difference between the sr212 amp, and the sr252? any performance difference or is it just the voltage (japan/us)?_

 

No major difference afaik. Just a minor update...
 The SRM-252II have been added a pair of RCA loop output. They both take 12 volt DC input, and have one RCA input and one Pro bias output.
 Also read this: Quote:


 Increasingly wide ranges capable of responding to new-generation media such as SACD and DVD-Audio are being called for in many different fields. SRM-252II is a new product that responds to this demand while at the same time raising the quality of each of the individual parts. *Also, the reproduction frequency band has been increased to 35,000Hz.* The body is made from a plentiful quantity of extruded aluminum, which equips it with strength and resilience. Parallel out terminals have been newly incorporated for greater ease of use. It's now possible to connect the input directly to a power amplifier or other device. 
 

 Source: Earspeaker System: SRS-2050II (Basic system)


----------



## spritzer

I direct comparison the 252 is better sounding then the 212 so there were some improvements made but its not that much of a difference. Both amps are a good step above the SRM-Xh though.


----------



## ueyteuor

hi again;

 i'm having a hard time thinking which out of the 3 would be the best choice

 sr303
 sr404
 sr-lambda pro

 now i read a little, and i've seen how some prefer the sr303 to the sr404, and some prefer the sr404 to the pro.... but really, what are the main differences between the 3

 i read the 303 and 404 have a cable difference, is that all?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi again;
 i'm having a hard time thinking which out of the 3 would be the best choice
sr303
sr404
sr-lambda pro
now i read a little, and i've seen how some prefer the sr303 to the sr404, and some prefer the sr404 to the pro.... but really, what are the main differences between the 3

 i read the 303 and 404 have a cable difference, is that all?_

 

Certainly I've read here that the drivers are the same for the 303 and 404, but, as you know, the cable is thicker on the 404 and the colour changes from a pale green to a deep brown.

 I have both the 303 and 404 (as well as the 202!) and there is a definite improvement with the 404, but it's not a massive leap forward (not as great as going from 202s to 303s): it depends on how much extra you're willing to pay (the law of diminishing returns applies!).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi again;

 i'm having a hard time thinking which out of the 3 would be the best choice

 sr303
 sr404
 sr-lambda pro

 now i read a little, and i've seen how some prefer the sr303 to the sr404, and some prefer the sr404 to the pro.... but really, what are the main differences between the 3

 i read the 303 and 404 have a cable difference, is that all?_

 

The Lambda Pro and for instance the 303 have very different sound signatures so the Lambda Pro is a bit more euphonic with a recessed midrange and the 303 is more forward and generally better but has greater midrange coloration due to the housing. Both are great headphones though and many prefer the Lambda Pro to the newer models due to the more forgiving signature.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and many prefer the Lambda Pro to the newer models due to the more forgiving signature._

 

... and I'm one of them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... and I'm one of them._

 

I do wonder how many would prefer the new models after a quick rebuild with new glue (like the one Stax used to use) and a thin sheet of mineral wool added.


----------



## facelvega

In an email conversation today, the question came up of what would happen if you plugged an electret headphone directly into the outs of a headphone amp, or to the speaker outs of a power amp. I'm not sure how to answer this question, would it simply not work, cause some catastrophic result, or something else?


----------



## AudioCats

I might have a chance to get a SR-3 with SRD-6 at a _relativly_ good price, but the 3 is not the top-of-the-line stuff like the X, so I am still pondering. can you guys provide the comparison info on SR-3 vs. SR-5 vs. SR-X?

 I know this has been beaten to death here, but I don't seem to find the exact info using the search function.....

 Thanks


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might have a chance to get a SR-3 with SRD-6 at a relativly good price, but the 3 is not the top-of-the-line stuff like the X, so I am still pondering. can you guys provide the comparison info on SR-3 vs. SR-5 vs. SR-X?

 I know this has been beaten to death here, but I don't seem to find the exact info using the search function.....

 Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've had a 5, an X, and a derivative of the 3, and heard another 3 version. There is a definite improvement from model to model in terms of sheer accuracy, but the 3 and 5 have a pleasing musicality that the X does not. If I could have no other headphones at all in my home rig but one of these, I'd get an SR-5, or a 5N if I could find one, because the relentless analysis and zero soundstage of the X make it a poor single choice, and because the 5 is a better compromise than the 3. However, if I also had a Lambda around, a 3 would be a perfectly viable backup choice. So if the price is right, why not grab it.


----------



## E.B.M.Head

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In an email conversation today, the question came up of what would happen if you plugged an electret headphone directly into the outs of a headphone amp, or to the speaker outs of a power amp. I'm not sure how to answer this question, would it simply not work, cause some catastrophic result, or something else?_

 

The Stax Electrets should work from a normal bias plug. I think it is even mentioned in one Stax manual.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *E.B.M.Head* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax Electrets should work from a normal bias plug. I think it is even mentioned in one Stax manual._

 

oh, no. I mean a normal, current-output headphone amp intended for dynamic headphones. More a what-if question than a serious possibility.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In an email conversation today, the question came up of what would happen if you plugged an electret headphone directly into the outs of a headphone amp, or to the speaker outs of a power amp. I'm not sure how to answer this question, would it simply not work, cause some catastrophic result, or something else?_

 

Well you should get some volume depending on the voltage output of the amp but they would only be single ended and that calls for a lot of distortion. Hook them up to a big Krell amp and they will sing as they can output plenty of voltage.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ the 5 is a better compromise than the 3. However, if I also had a Lambda around, a 3 would be a perfectly viable backup choice._

 

thanks, I guess I will wait for a pair of good SR-5 then....


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In an email conversation today, the question came up of what would happen if you plugged an electret headphone directly into the outs of a headphone amp, or to the speaker outs of a power amp. I'm not sure how to answer this question, would it simply not work, cause some catastrophic result, or something else?_

 

I think the general answer is, at best, not enough. 

 I mean traditionally they're hooked up to a speaker amp via step-up transformers. I don't have specs in front of me, but the impedance is probably over 100k, and most amps just aren't designed to drive that.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I hope I got a good deal on a used 2050II system on eBay for $371. I figured anything below $400 would be good considering the current exchange rate on getting a new 2050A directly from Japan.

 From the pictures the unit seems to be in good condition and fairly new. I'm really excited to listen to a full sized Stax unit even if it's relatively low end. If I end up not liking it I could always sell it to make up for losses.

 It seems to be the SR-202 and the newer driver unit SRM-252. Also the bidding war got pretty extreme at the end of the auction so I apologize if it was any other head-fiers I was bidding against.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope I got a good deal on a used 2050II system on eBay for $371. I figured anything below $400 would be good considering the current exchange rate on getting a new 2050A directly from Japan.

 From the pictures the unit seems to be in good condition and fairly new. I'm really excited to listen to a full sized Stax unit even if it's relatively low end. If I end up not liking it I could always sell it to make up for losses.

 It seems to be the SR-202 and the newer driver unit SRM-252. Also the bidding war got pretty extreme at the end of the auction so I apologize if it was any other head-fiers I was bidding against._

 

dang, that was you!! the bids were rising so quickly in those last 20 seconds... i put a bid for $366

 you did get a good deal! and enjoy the stax, they are amazing


----------



## ueyteuor

i read while ago on an ebay auction for sr303 or sr404 pads, that they are quite softer than the black pads... is this true? if so which of the brown pads is softer (303 or 404)?


----------



## Asr

There's an OII on Audiogon for $1420 shipped: AudiogoN ForSale: Stax Sr-007 Omega ll


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 read while ago on an ebay auction for sr303 or sr404 pads, that they are quite softer than the black pads... is this true? 
 

yes they are much softer but not perse more comfortable


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i read while ago on an ebay auction for sr303 or sr404 pads, that they are quite softer than the black pads... is this true? if so which of the brown pads is softer (303 or 404)?_

 

They appear to use the same material so they are the same. They are softer and add a bit of bass to the sound.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Man the plug on my SR-001 headphone cable is already failing! The volume on the right channel is very low unless I wiggle the plug just right.

 Does anyone know the best place to source a replacement cable? Should I send an email to YamasInc. or to Audiocubes from whom I purchased it? Actually while I'm at it I'd like to find a SR-003 cord so I could hook my SR-001 up to the SRM-252 once I receive my 2050II.

 I think in the meantime I will try to fix this one even if my DIY work makes it look all ugly. 

 Maybe this is punishment for spending more money on audio equipment earlier?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man the plug on my SR-001 headphone cable is already failing! The volume on the right channel is very low unless I wiggle the plug just right.

 Does anyone know the best place to source a replacement cable? Should I send an email to YamasInc. or to Audiocubes from whom I purchased it? Actually while I'm at it I'd like to find a SR-003 cord so I could hook my SR-001 up to the SRM-252 once I receive my 2050II.

 I think in the meantime I will try to fix this one even if my DIY work makes it look all ugly. 

 Maybe this is punishment for spending more money on audio equipment earlier?_

 

I would contact the dealer about if it is waranteed or not. I hear a cable is $90. I picked up a complete spare SR-001 for $150 shipped, so if my cable goes bad, well I still have a complete spare amp.


----------



## AudioCats

that $90 price was including oversea shipping (to UK if I remembered right?), for within the US should be a bit less I would guess.

 ak40OzKevin, do you plan to sell the bad cable once you get a replacement? Just curious


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that $90 price was including oversea shipping (to UK if I remembered right?), for within the US should be a bit less I would guess.

 ak40OzKevin, do you plan to sell the bad cable once you get a replacement? Just curious_

 

I'm going to email audiocubes about seeing whether it's covered in warranty or not and to see how much money I'm out if it's not covered. If it's too expensive I'd like to try and fix it myself before I order a new cable. If I determine that I can't fix it then I would definitely sell it for whatever I could get.


----------



## AudioCats

ak40oz, any possibility of some pictures showing where the cable fails?


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ak40oz, any possibility of some pictures showing where the cable fails?_

 

Yeah I can take a picture tomorrow but it's just at the flexible portion before the main plug that goes into the driver unit.

 And I swear to god I was just using them before class at school and they were fine but after class I put them on and they began to act up. When I got home I decided to look into it further and the only way I can get it to sound right is if I gently tug and tighten that flexible portion at the end where it inserts into the driver unit.






 EDIT: here's where it is on a stock photo of the SR-001.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 
 EDIT: here's where it is on a stock photo of the SR-001. 
 

If you cannot claim warranty and you cannot get a cheap replacement; I think it is still possible to shorten the cable a bit or solder the wires straight onto the pcb


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i read while ago on an ebay auction for sr303 or sr404 pads, that they are quite softer than the black pads... is this true? if so which of the brown pads is softer (303 or 404)?_

 

Yes, that is true.
 The brown pads (used on the 4070, SR-404, ..) and much softer than the black ones on the older Lambda 'phones. The new black pads (from Audio Cubes II) are not as soft either.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you cannot claim warranty and you cannot get a cheap replacement; I think it is still possible to shorten the cable a bit or solder the wires straight onto the pcb_

 

Yeah the rubber that surrounds the plug is tight but I think I could make a clean cut with a razor blade and resolder the connections and then reseal it. It might not look as good as new but I don't care as long as its functional.


----------



## ueyteuor

i'm back to stax; i'll be getting a lambda pro soon..

 how does a srm212 do with the lambda pros?

 im a little confused, sr-lambda pro and lambda pro are 2 different headphones?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm back to stax; i'll be getting a lambda pro soon..

 how does a srm212 do with the lambda pros?

 im a little confused, sr-lambda pro and lambda pro are 2 different headphones?_

 

The SR-Lambda Pro and Lambda Pro are the same. The SR-Lambda and Lambda are the same. Some people drop the SR. The SR-Lambda has a 6 pin jack and requires a 230 volt bias. The Pro has a 5 pin jack and requires a 580 volt bias. All current Stax amps and phones are 5 pin, 580 volt only.

 The SRM-212 should be fine for the Lambda Pro's. A SRM-1mk2 pro would do better.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lambda Pro and Lambda Pro are the same. The SR-Lambda and Lambda are the same. Some people drop the SR. The SR-Lambda has a 6 pin jack and requires a 230 volt bias. The Pro has a 5 pin jack and requires a 580 volt bias. All current Stax amps and phones are 5 pin, 580 volt only.

 The SRM-212 should be fine for the Lambda Pro's. A SRM-1mk2 pro would do better._

 

thank you for that info.. i was a little confused

 i noticed you own both a sr202 and a lambda pro, and i have owned an sr202 a while ago as well... what's the difference between the 2 and which do you prefer more?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thank you for that info.. i was a little confused

 i noticed you own both a sr202 and a lambda pro, and i have owned an sr202 a while ago as well... what's the difference between the 2 and which do you prefer more?_

 

My favorite Lambda is the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro. I was looking for a backup Pro and didn’t want to spend the big money for the Pro so I purchased a 202. To my surprise, I liked it (in some ways better than the 404). I since have purchased 2 more Pro’s (a sickness). All the Lambda series are known for a forward upper midrange, but the older SR-Lambda and the Pro have the least bite. The Pro has a laid back midrange that I like. The SR-Lambda has the best tonal balance of the group but lacks dynamics and bottom. If you are looking for a great phone that has none of the bad traits of the Lambda series get a Koss ESP-950 and wire it for a Stax amp. I am looking for a backup 950 now. There have been problems with the Koss but it has a lifetime warranty that I have used twice (no questions asked, Thanks Koss!).


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My favorite Lambda is the SR-Lambda and Lambda Pro. I was looking for a backup Pro and didn’t want to spend the big money for the Pro so I purchased a 202. To my surprise, I liked it (in some ways better than the 404). I since have purchased 2 more Pro’s (a sickness). All the Lambda series are know for a forward upper midrange, but the older SR-Lambda and the Pro have the least bite. The Pro has a laid back midrange that I like. The SR-Lambda has the best tonal balance of the group but lacks dynamics and bottom. If you are looking for a great phone that has none of the bad traits of the Lambda series get a Koss ESP-950 and wire it for a Stax amp. I am looking for a backup 950 now. There have been problems with the Koss but it has a lifetime warranty that I have used twice (no questions asked, Thanks Koss!)._

 

what bad traits would a lambda have?? when i first heard the srs2050 system i was super impressed.. blown away by the clarity of the sound and how smooth it was... i hope the lambda pro is about the same..

 i actually saw a 1-day ebay auction for a koss esp-950 for $380 buy it now.. but i skipped it, since i wanted to go back to stax, and stick with it, since i didn't see any flaws in the basic 2050 system.. i just wanted to try other headphones out first, so that's why i sold it, which i regretted, but now i'm back to stax, trying out other models...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what bad traits would a lambda have??_

 

The main bad trait is the forward upper midrange, lower treble. They can also be fussy of source material and equipment. Some of the problems are caused by resonances in the cheap plastic housing. I can listen to the O2 and ESP-950 all day long. Not so with the Lambda's. With the best program material the Lambda series are great but Stax could make them better. I think that they are overdue for a overhaul. The Lambda design is almost 30 years old.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The main bad trait is the forward upper midrange, lower treble._

 

I found it to be much more of a problem with the new production Lambda/SR-x0x range than with the Lambda Pros.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found it to be much more of a problem with the new production Lambda/SR-x0x range than with the Lambda Pros._

 

That’s for sure! That’s why I’m collecting the Pro's and SR-Lambda’s.


----------



## J-Pak

I agree with milkpowder on that one. Long live ye olde vintage λ.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Is there anyone out there who has an Omega 2 MK2 burnt in 200 hours with signal- not just charge who can give me their opinion on how they compare with the Omega 2 MK1?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah the rubber that surrounds the plug is tight but I think I could make a clean cut with a razor blade and resolder the connections and then reseal it. It might not look as good as new but I don't care as long as its functional._

 

Let us know how to do this and how it works out. I had this happen to me and replaced the entire cable from Yamasinc, for I think about $70.00. But I would like to be able to repair the old cable.


----------



## edstrelow

I just got the latest Stereophile and see it lists the Omega II System in its "A" list of phones. Oddly their listing is out of date. I assume the "Omega II" refers to the latest Omega phone but the amps they list are the transistor SRM-717 (rather than the latest 727A) and the tube SRM-007t (rather than the current OO7tII.)

 No mention of the other Stax capable but non-Stax built amps.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got the latest Stereophile and see it lists the Omega II System in its "A" list of phones. Oddly their listing is out of date. I assume the "Omega II" refers to the latest Omega phone but the amps they list are the transistor SRM-717 (rather than the latest 727A) and the tube SRM-007t (rather than the current OO7tII.)

 No mention of the other Stax capable but non-Stax built amps._

 

Yes, I'd venture to say that this may be yet another result of Stereophile's policy of using an autorectal listening chamber for all headphone reviews.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with milkpowder on that one. Long live ye olde vintage λ._

 

It is but the ESP/950 is a better headphone then any one of the Lambdas in technical terms. They do need to get a cable transplant and a new amp but they are still well worth it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got the latest Stereophile and see it lists the Omega II System in its "A" list of phones. Oddly their listing is out of date. I assume the "Omega II" refers to the latest Omega phone but the amps they list are the transistor SRM-717 (rather than the latest 727A) and the tube SRM-007t (rather than the current OO7tII.)

 No mention of the other Stax capable but non-Stax built amps._

 

Since Stereophile has almost sunk to the level of 6moons I'm not surprised. Their last headphones review that made any sense was published in 1995 of the SR-Omega. The original SR-007 review was a joke...


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Originally Posted by ak40ozKevin View Post
 Yeah the rubber that surrounds the plug is tight but I think I could make a clean cut with a razor blade and resolder the connections and then reseal it. It might not look as good as new but I don't care as long as its functional.
 Let us know how to do this and how it works out. I had this happen to me and replaced the entire cable from Yamasinc, for I think about $70.00. But I would like to be able to repair the old cable. 
 

Try to locate the wire where it is broken and the EXACT spot . Split the main cable so that the one broken is isolated from the others
 Free that cable of the rubber and its coating (so there are a few mm copper left on both sides)
 If you want to apply heatshrink on this single cable : now is the time to place it on one of the sides. 
 Solder the two copper wires. move the heatshrink so that it covers the copper/solder area and warm it
 Place broad heatshrink (or ducttape) on the repaired part of the whole cable (warm it) so tension will shift to another area.
 finished!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there anyone out there who has an Omega 2 MK2 burnt in 200 hours with signal- not just charge who can give me their opinion on how they compare with the Omega 2 MK1?_

 

Search this thread. I have posted a lot on this subject. After break-in they are close, but I still like the O2. The O2 has deeper bass and punch, better low level detail, airier top end, and overall more transparent.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Search this thread. I have posted a lot on this subject. After break-in they are close, but I still like the O2. The O2 has deeper bass and punch, better low level detail, airier top end, and overall more transparent._

 

Thanks.
 Any other opinions from people who have well broken in O2MK2's on how they compare in terms of sound only to the MK1? Can anyone explain how there could be any sound difference if they have the exact same drivers in the exact same casing?- leather earpads- I dont believe it could make the differences mentioned in the response above.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks.
 Any other opinions from people who have well broken in O2MK2's on how they compare in terms of sound only to the MK1? Can anyone explain how there could be any sound difference if they have the exact same drivers in the exact same casing?- leather earpads- I dont believe it could make the differences mentioned in the response above._

 

The earpads will make or break any planar headphone and the SR-007 is the most sensitive I've ever heard. The earpads only have to loose a little bit of their firmness to completely alter the sound. The new pads are very different and there was also some work done underneath so they should sound different. In my view the new pads are a bit of a compromise compared to the older design.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try to locate the wire where it is broken and the EXACT spot . Split the main cable so that the one broken is isolated from the others
 Free that cable of the rubber and its coating (so there are a few mm copper left on both sides)
 If you want to apply heatshrink on this single cable : now is the time to place it on one of the sides. 
 Solder the two copper wires. move the heatshrink so that it covers the copper/solder area and warm it
 Place broad heatshrink (or ducttape) on the repaired part of the whole cable (warm it) so tension will shift to another area.
 finished!_

 

thanks for the tips. I still haven't heard back from Audiocubes yet but I have a feeling I'm going to have to try and fix this cable if I want to save money.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is but the ESP/950 is a better headphone then any one of the Lambdas in technical terms. They do need to get a cable transplant and a new amp but they are still well worth it. 

 .._

 

I was comparing the Koss 950 vs the Stax 404 on a Stax SRM3 amp last night and I prefered the sound of the Koss. It was airier and had less coloration and bassiness than the Stax. I would have said it's a better phone except that the Koss shows overload distortion with some music on the Stax amp (never had this problem with the Koss amp but that amp sucks in other respects)

 Also I must do comparisons on the Stax 717 amp to see if this is a problem with the SRM3 or the lower bias.


----------



## rsbrsvp

I have an ES-1 amp with 3 stax headphones. I want to keep the headphones always charged without keeping the amp. on because the tubes are used up. Does anyone know anyone who can build me a "charger" with 4 stax outlets to keep my headphones constantly charged?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also I must do comparisons on the Stax 717 amp to see if this is a problem with the SRM3 or the lower bias._

 

The ESP-950 sounds wonderful on the 717! I'm glad to see the 950 getting it's due.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was comparing the Koss 950 vs the Stax 404 on a Stax SRM3 amp last night and I prefered the sound of the Koss. It was airier and had less coloration and bassiness than the Stax. I would have said it's a better phone except that the Koss shows overload distortion with some music on the Stax amp (never had this problem with the Koss amp but that amp sucks in other respects)

 Also I must do comparisons on the Stax 717 amp to see if this is a problem with the SRM3 or the lower bias._

 

I've never had any overload issues with mine but I haven't tried to look for it. I'll try them soon and see what happens. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an ES-1 amp with 3 stax headphones. I want to keep the headphones always charged without keeping the amp. on because the tubes are used up. Does anyone know anyone who can build me a "charger" with 4 stax outlets to keep my headphones constantly charged?_

 

Such a box is very easy to make but I don't see why you'd want to do that. You are simply risking the build up of parasitic capacitance with no real benefit. Amplifier warm up is a much bigger issue.


----------



## rsbrsvp

I thought these headphones sounded better charged. Please clarify


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought these headphones sounded better charged. Please clarify_

 

It only takes a second to charge them in 99.99999% of cases but the SR-007 can take up to a day to charge if it hasn't been used for months at a time and they weren't discharged before that. There is no reason why would take so long to charge unless there was some residual charge causing trouble. This is not normal behaviour and most phones never do this. Due to the size of my collection I often didn't use phones for months at a time and when I plugged them into a warmed up amp they took only a second or two to fully charge. 

 What most users think is the phones charging is just the amp warming up. I got home at 6pm tonight and turned on the SRM-1 Mk2 PP I used for my computer setup and it sounded like crap. Now 6 hours later it is simply brilliant with my SR-X Pro. The only change is that the amp has warmed up to it's ideal running temperature.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Interesting. I find my ES-1 sounds the same after 30 minutes of warm compared to 3 days of warm up. Now my CDP sounds totally different when it remains on always or is turned on 6 hours before use- so much warmer and smoothe. An entirely different world.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It only takes a second to charge them in 99.99999% of cases but the SR-007 can take up to a day to charge if it hasn't been used for months at a time and they weren't discharged before that. There is no reason why would take so long to charge unless there was some residual charge causing trouble. This is not normal behaviour and most phones never do this. Due to the size of my collection I often didn't use phones for months at a time and when I plugged them into a warmed up amp they took only a second or two to fully charge. 

 What most users think is the phones charging is just the amp warming up. I got home at 6pm tonight and turned on the SRM-1 Mk2 PP I used for my computer setup and it sounded like crap. Now 6 hours later it is simply brilliant with my SR-X Pro. The only change is that the amp has warmed up to it's ideal running temperature._

 

Interesting. I find my ES-1 sounds the same after 30 minutes of warm compared to 3 days of warm up. Now my CDP sounds totally different when it remains on always or is turned on 6 hours before use- so much warmer and smoothe. An entirely different world.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I find my ES-1 sounds the same after 30 minutes of warm compared to 3 days of warm up. Now my CDP sounds totally different when it remains on always or is turned on 6 hours before use- so much warmer and smoothe. An entirely different world._

 

That's not that surprising as tube gear is less prone to it but the regulators in the PSU will also need some warm up so you should notice some change. That being said I've been told that the ES-1 doesn't run very hot so no huge CCS or large regulator circuits to get nice and toasty. The BH and all of my Stax amps sound like utter turds until they've reached optimum temperature and that time depends on the amp. The BH needs about 3-5 hours while the T1 needs about 12 hours to shine and some even longer.


----------



## complin

Has anyone listened to the New Omega Mk2 and compared it to the previous Omega II? 
 Is there really that much difference?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone listened to the New Omega Mk2 and compared it to the previous Omega II? 
 Is there really that much difference?_

 

Search this thread. There is plenty on this topic.


----------



## spacemanspliff

well damn. my nad 2100 just pooped the bed.

 I have a t-amp 2 but does anyone *see* a good amp to power a normal bias srd 7 and lambda normals? 

 spritzer hooked me up and the setup needs to get here from iceland which can take awhile so no hurry. looking for around $200 and vintage aka used lol.

 oh, and thanks again to spritzer. so many good guys here.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well damn. my nad 2100 just pooped the bed.

 I have a t-amp 2 but does anyone *see* a good amp to power a normal bias srd 7 and lambda normals? 

 spritzer hooked me up and the setup needs to get here from iceland which can take awhile so no hurry. looking for around $200 and vintage aka used lol.

 oh, and thanks again to spritzer. so many good guys here._

 

No, you want to buy my SR-3 to go with the SRD-5 I sent you. You are getting sleeeepy, the T-amp is goooooood enough... youuuuuuu want SR-3, yessssss.....


----------



## krmathis

/me obviously got to try the ESP-950... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ** heading over to *Bay**

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone listened to the New Omega Mk2 and compared it to the previous Omega II? 
 Is there really that much difference?_

 

There are plenty of SR-007 vs. SR-007MK2 information in this thread.
 So its worth searching... Search Thread - The Stax thread (New)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, you want to buy my SR-3 to go with the SRD-5 I sent you. You are getting sleeeepy, the T-amp is goooooood enough... youuuuuuu want SR-3, yessssss....._

 

lol Larry

 your mind tricks are useless against me!

 seriously just pm me if there is something nice ya'll see. no hurry


----------



## Downrange

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone listened to the New Omega Mk2 and compared it to the previous Omega II? 
 Is there really that much difference?_

 

The originals are probably better. Also cheaper.

 There, I said it.


----------



## tk3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The originals are probably better. Also cheaper.

 There, I said it._

 

Reasoning?


----------



## rsbrsvp

If I could get either of these on the used market- which is better for the Omega 2? I would appreciate some imput.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I could get either of these on the used market- which is better for the Omega 2? I would appreciate some imput._

 

I've never heard the Aristaeus but going from the design and what I know the SR-007 likes then the Blue Hawaii is the clear favorite. The SR-007 likes plenty of power from a transparent amp and the Blue Hawaii has that. The Aristaeus is much better suited for the likes of a HE90 which can't really take a very truthful amp.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never heard the Aristaeus but going from the design and what I know the SR-007 likes then the Blue Hawaii is the clear favorite. The SR-007 likes plenty of power from a transparent amp and the Blue Hawaii has that. The Aristaeus is much better suited for the likes of a HE90 which can't really take a very truthful amp._

 

I have heard neither but have read much. And Pm-ed much, along a similar line of trying to find the best.

 If I had the dollars I'd buy a maxxed BH, no question. As spritzer indicates, the design is the best for what you want. An improved, especially maxxed, ES-1 would also be a consideration. But if I had the BH option that's where I'd sow my dollars.


----------



## complin

So what is a Maxxed out BH?
 How does this differ from a "standard" BH. Much has been said about this but what does maxing out entail?

 What about the new BHSE? Will this be superior to the original BH as it seems to have a much beefier PSU.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have heard neither but have read much. And Pm-ed much, along a similar line of trying to find the best.

 If I had the dollars I'd buy a maxxed BH, no question. As spritzer indicates, the design is the best for what you want. An improved, especially maxxed, ES-1 would also be a consideration. But if I had the BH option that's where I'd sow my dollars._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what is a Maxxed out BH?
 How does this differ from a "standard" BH. Much has been said about this but what does maxing out entail?

 What about the new BHSE? Will this be superior to the original BH as it seems to have a much beefier PSU._

 

Mine is maxed out in terms of parts (Black Gate WKZ psu caps and silver wiring) but the basic design is completely stock. The amp could be pushed further with dual power supplies and better connectors and volume controls but I've decided to just start over with a new amp that is a very upgraded BHSE if they could be compared. The new amp will throw off much more heat and be more then twice as big though most of that is just the power supply. The size of the amp section is governed by the size of the heatsinks needed to keep it cool. 

 The BHSE uses a redesigned power supply which has a time delay on the HV line to prolong tube life so it has extra transformers for that. The main, HV psu has also been altered somewhat but I don't know how much.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Birgir:

 Look here, the other guy in Iceland into serious hi-fi. A neighbour, perhaps?


----------



## spritzer

He's got a very nice system but he's on the other side of the island. I can see he is a regular customer at a shop I frequent. They are the Senn distributor as well so I go the regularly to talk about how bad the 650 is...


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He's got a very nice system but he's on the other side of the island. I can see he is a regular customer at a shop I frequent. They are the Senn distributor as well so I go the regularly to talk about how bad the 650 is... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You Krazy Icies. I hope that other guy had a typo b/c he said,
 "The bass speaker wire is a 3 x 1.5 g soild copper twisted with help from a drill." 

 I hope he didn't actually mean 1.5 g (gauge)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You Krazy Icies. I hope that other guy had a typo b/c he said,
 "The bass speaker wire is a 3 x 1.5 g soild copper twisted with help from a drill." 

 I hope he didn't actually mean 1.5 g (gauge) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

1.5AWG is very, very big so he could have meant that...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He's got a very nice system but he's on the other side of the island. I can see he is a regular customer at a shop I frequent. They are the Senn distributor as well so I go the regularly to talk about how bad the 650 is... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Is here from the part of the island were they are deploying the large Alcoa smelter? I just read a long article on how that divided the the country


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is here from the part of the island were they are deploying the large Alcoa smelter? I just read a long article on how that divided the the country 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That particular plant is in one of the fjords on the eastern shore but there is a new one planned just south or Reykjavik and all hell is breaking loose again. It's mostly people in the media and those that like the sound of their own voice that are opposed as the rest of the nation understands that we have a lot of untapped electricity and this is one of the best ways to use it. There aren't that many resources up here and we have to use what have. The Alcoa smelter and the power plant needed to feed it has probably saved that part of the country from becoming deserted.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That particular plant is in one of the fjords on the eastern shore but there is a new one planned just south or Reykjavik and all hell is breaking loose again. It's mostly people in the media and those that like the sound of their own voice that are opposed as the rest of the nation understands that we have a lot of untapped electricity and this is one of the best ways to use it. There aren't that many resources up here and we have to use what have. The Alcoa smelter and the power plant needed to feed it has probably saved that part of the country from becoming deserted._

 

I can imagine that for a small country like Iceland a plant like that one created jobs for a huge amount of people in that area. I will stop derailing Stax thread on this note.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can imagine that for a small country like Iceland a plant like that one created jobs for a huge amount of people in that area. I will stop derailing Stax thread on this note._

 

There are actually way too many jobs here then there are people to do them but I think that is a good thing. 

 Derailing off...


----------



## The Other Allen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are actually way too many jobs here then there are people to do them but I think that is a good thing. 

 Derailing off..._

 

My off topic post -- know anyone working IADS?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My off topic post -- know anyone working IADS?_

 

I don't even know what that it is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The situation here is starting to change though as our currency just took the largest single day drop in its history and the stock market is a no mans land. I guess this is the backlash from all the explosive growth over the last 5 years.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My off topic post -- know anyone working IADS?_

 

Is that "know any one working *I*n *A* *D*epartment *S*tore" ??


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir:

 Look here, the other guy in Iceland into serious hi-fi. A neighbour, perhaps?_

 

I see he mentions EAR, imagine a Tim de Paravicini stat amp


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see he mentions EAR, imagine a Tim de Paravicini stat amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't have to imagine as it does exist. TdP designed a direct drive amp for the ESL57 but it was never anything but a special order product as it was mounted to the back of the speakers. Just lower the gain and the amp works for ESP's as well.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I have a decent price on a Marantz 1060 for my SRD-7.

 Comments? Wait? I have a decent working system now and am ok with saving up some more.


----------



## scompton

I just got a Magnavox 1A9217 that's completely dead. How long does it take a stat to recharge? And can I just plug it in, or do I need to be playing music though it.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have to imagine as it does exist. TdP designed a direct drive amp for the ESL57 but it was never anything but a special order product as it was mounted to the back of the speakers. Just lower the gain and the amp works for ESP's as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very cool


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a Magnavox 1A9217 that's completely dead. How long does it take a stat to recharge? And can I just plug it in, or do I need to be playing music though it._

 

Let it charge for a couple of hours, then give them a try. If still no sound, let them charge over night.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let it charge for a couple of hours, then give them a try. If still no sound, let them charge over night._

 

Do I have to play music though them, or just plug them in with the transformer on?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got a Magnavox 1A9217 that's completely dead. How long does it take a stat to recharge? And can I just plug it in, or do I need to be playing music though it._

 

When i got my stagnavox, it didn't sound right until it had been powered up for about 20 hours. your actual mileage may vary. 

 You just have to turn on the bias supply.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I have to play music though them, or just plug them in with the transformer on?_

 

Bias power is enough. No audio signal are needed.


----------



## scompton

That's what I was hoping. 

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very cool 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's one of those "must hear" items I have. There have been some DD amps over the years but most are a joke but TdP should be able to pull off a good one.


----------



## The Other Allen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't even know what that it is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The situation here is starting to change though as our currency just took the largest single day drop in its history and the stock market is a no mans land. I guess this is the backlash from all the explosive growth over the last 5 years._

 


 Iceland Air Defense System.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I was hoping._

 

If you've had the Magmabox on power since your last post, you should be getting some sound out of them. Don't panic if the channel balance is off.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a decent price on a Marantz 1060 for my SRD-7._

 

Nice little 30w/ch integrated from the heart of the '70s, should be good for nonviolent listening. Check out the marantzophiles at audiokarma.org for further details, but if it's clean and in good working order and you're happy with the price, go for it. Its resale value is such that it's a safe investment.


----------



## scompton

I'm getting some sound if I crank the volume. It cuts in and out. I'm going to just leave them on continually and test them once or twice a day until they sound OK.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Other Allen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Iceland Air Defense System._

 

Ahh, then I know some people that know some people but nothing more then that.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm getting some sound if I crank the volume. It cuts in and out._

 

Try wiggling/exercising the PHONES/SPEAKER switch. The sound shouldn't be cutting in and out and you should be getting close to normal volume by now. A lot of these simple slide switches get dirty at age thirty. Got DeoxIT?


----------



## scompton

No, but I can order some. Do you apply it from the outside, or do I need to take the cover off and apply it to the inside?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you apply it from the outside, or do I need to take the cover off and apply it to the inside?_

 

The latter, unfortunately. You have to spray inside the switch body. But turn the power off and try just flipping the switch several times to see if you can run the crud out of it. Chances are, these phones weren't used very much and there's no better way to accumulate switchcrud than just sitting out for thirty years. More like thirty-five in this case.

 Record-low winning bid on an electrostat, I think. Can anyone else beat $1.04 on eBay? We of Team Cheap Bastards salute you.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


 Record-low winning bid on an electrostat, I think. Can anyone else beat $1.04 on eBay? 
 







 I thought my previous ESP7 set was a super duper killer deal @ $1.5, but Magnavox for $1.04? wow...... congrats!


----------



## scompton

They're working. It was a loose connection at the speaker binding posts. They came with spade ends that are narrower than the binding posts on my Super T.

 They sound pretty good. The bass starts to roll off at 60Hz and is pretty much gone by 40Hz, but I'm not a bass head so that's OK with me. Not perfect, but OK, especially for listening to classical.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was comparing the Koss 950 vs the Stax 404 on a Stax SRM3 amp last night and I prefered the sound of the Koss._

 

yeah!


----------



## Kerby88

Hello

 This was the thread I was looking for. Currently I am a dynamic headphone user. However, as of late, the thought of possibility of trying electrostatics has recently crossed my mind. What would be a good place to start in the Stax line up? At my present location, I must say it is quite difficult to test one of these systems out in person. However written word on these forums suggest that this style of sound may suit me. 
 BTW I looked into the "Baby Stax" however I seem to be more interested in the full size variety.


----------



## afphreak

Back in January, and the last DFW head-fi meet, i had my first foray into electrostatics. after sampling some of the various Stax and the Koss ESP-950, i was hooked, they were very amazing, and i'm still speechless today! i especially enjoyed the SR-007's on luvdunhill's KGSS... 

 well, finally pulled the trigger, and found a second-hand but excellent condition Stax SRS-2020 Basic System II last night. i figure it's a good starting point for me, and it gets me in the door... but i already know the dance, and will probably be sporting 404's or the ESP-950's, and a better amp(who knows, maybe a KGSS) by the end of the year!




 [size=xx-small](i think ironman64 created a monster out of me when he handed me those Koss playing Aerosmith's Sweet Emotion[/size][size=xx-small]) [/size]


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *afphreak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, finally pulled the trigger, and found a second-hand but excellent condition Stax SRS-2020 Basic System II last night. i figure it's a good starting point for me, and it gets me in the door... but i already know the dance, and will probably be sporting 404's or the ESP-950's, and a better amp(who knows, maybe a KGSS) by the end of the year!_

 

I welcome you to *Club Stax*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its a nice place to stay, and you will have no rush leaving us...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kerby88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello

 This was the thread I was looking for. Currently I am a dynamic headphone user. However, as of late, the thought of possibility of trying electrostatics has recently crossed my mind. What would be a good place to start in the Stax line up? At my present location, I must say it is quite difficult to test one of these systems out in person. However written word on these forums suggest that this style of sound may suit me. 
 BTW I looked into the "Baby Stax" however I seem to be more interested in the full size variety._

 

Oh, Kerby, get out now, while you still can! Reading this thread will suck your bank balance dry in months, and you still won't have what you want!

 But, of course, you won't listen to me, so, to answer your question: a good starting point for modern (full size) gear is the 2050 system, but (see above) you can get the very similar 2020 system second-hand, for less money (around $500?).

 Alternatively, you can get into the older gear, say an SR-5 or SR-X powered by a SRD-6 or 7 transformer, which has to be driven from an amp's speaker outputs (and includes a switch to allow speakers or h'phones). This will be cheaper (from $200) but, of course, riskier, because this stuff is often 20 years old, or even older.

 Good luck, and welcome to the Stax fraternity (I haven't seen a woman's hand in any posts here!).


----------



## Gazza

I too am one who is contemplating the dive into 'stats. My only real concern is how they handle Rock/Metal. I have listened extensively to various QUAD Stat speakers and whils they were amazing in many ways they just couldn't handle Hard Rock/Metal or any music with a lot of things happening at the same time.

 Are Stax the same or are their earspeakers different from full-range models?

 Also, would the 4040 system be a good buy?

 My source would be a Densen 400XS CD player and a Thorens TD-850 turntable with an Ortofon Kontrapunkt C cartridge.


----------



## gimmish

While I am waiting for my GES I have been doing some research and re-read Kevin Gilmores original article about his amp design. He claims that tube rolling seem to make no difference in his amp design. Do those of you who use a Blue Hawaii or GES agree with this or am I understanding this wrong?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While I am waiting for my GES I have been doing some research and re-read Kevin Gilmores original article about his amp design. He claims that tube rolling seem to make no difference in his amp design. Do those of you who use a Blue Hawaii or GES agree with this or am I understanding this wrong?_

 

The amps are less sensitive to tube rolling then many other amps but they will of course benefit from high quality tubes just like any other, better component.


----------



## Johnny Blue

All right, I give in, I have to ask: what the bleedin' 'eck is 'tube rolling'? I've always had visions of you tube (or valves, as we call them on this side of the Atlantic) lovers physically rolling them on a flat surface. I'm a Naim (SS) man through and through, so it's all a mystery...


----------



## naamanf

It's very similar to the classic way Cuban cigars were made. Requires the virgin thighs of young women. 

 Actually it's just trying different tubes (by manufacturer and age not type) in a tube amp. When you buy a current production tube amp you are most likely going to get new production tubes. Older production tubes can sound better than current production. Older by about 30-40 years.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Can anyone tell me a vender on ebay which could score me a decent amp for my SRD-7?

 Having a tough time atm lol.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's very similar to the classic way Cuban cigars were made. Requires the virgin thighs of young women. 

 Actually it's just trying different tubes (by manufacturer and age not type) in a tube amp. When you buy a current production tube amp you are most likely going to get new production tubes. Older production tubes can sound better than current production. Older by about 30-40 years._

 

Aaah, I thought it must be that, given the tangential references alluding to that, which I've read here. Thanks for the info. When you say 'older' is it because they age (like a good wine) or is it because they were better made, back in the day?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All right, I give in, I have to ask: what the bleedin' 'eck is 'tube rolling'? I've always had visions of you tube (or valves, as we call them on this side of the Atlantic) lovers physically rolling them on a flat surface. I'm a Naim (SS) man through and through, so it's all a mystery..._

 

It's basically just trying different tubes to get better sound. That was the original idea but is has gone off the deep end with users rolling tubes to tailor the sound and equipment that comes with great stock tubes like the ECC99 is frowned upon as the sound can't be "altered" and made "better". The worst case scenarios is where the users spend large sums of money on different tubes where a simple change to the circuit or a new component would have been much better and for a lot less. This is a can of worms and fueled by badly designed equipment and people with more money then sense.


----------



## naamanf

They are considered to be made better. I think the mid '60s was about the peak of tube production.

 Edit: 1955 peak.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aaah, I thought it must be that, given the tangential references alluding to that, which I've read here. Thanks for the info. When you say 'older' is it because they age (like a good wine) or is it because they were better made, back in the day?_

 

They were better made as they were more expensive back in the day. The Mullard EL34 is a great way to show the decline in tube quality as they made it cheaper and sound worse with each new version.


----------



## Michgelsen

Just a quick solid state question in between: what was the difference between the SRM-717 and the SRM-717 DM?
 How is it possible that the Dutch Stax distributor still lists the SRM-717 DM and the SRM-727 as well? I thought the 717 was discontinued.
 Look at those insane prices btw... Number 4 Audio | Stax prijslijst


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick solid state question in between: what was the difference between the SRM-717 and the SRM-717 DM?
 How is it possible that the Dutch Stax distributor still lists the SRM-717 DM and the SRM-727 as well? I thought the 717 was discontinued.
 Look at those insane prices btw... Number 4 Audio | Stax prijslijst_

 

The 717DM is still in production but it is a 6 channel model intended for multi channel monitoring. There is no surround crap built in but a switch on the front panel to audition the different channels.


----------



## AudioCats

after all these talk, I finally broke down and bough the SR-3/SRM-6. I blame this on Birgir's "vintage romantic sound" statement....


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, Kerby, get out now, while you still can! Reading this thread will suck your bank balance dry in months, and you still won't have what you want!

 But, of course, you won't listen to me, so, to answer your question: a good starting point for modern (full size) gear is the 2050 system, but (see above) you can get the very similar 2020 system second-hand, for less money (around $500?).

 Alternatively, you can get into the older gear, say an SR-5 or SR-X powered by a SRD-6 or 7 transformer, which has to be driven from an amp's speaker outputs (and includes a switch to allow speakers or h'phones). This will be cheaper (from $200) but, of course, riskier, because this stuff is often 20 years old, or even older.

 Good luck, and welcome to the Stax fraternity (I haven't seen a woman's hand in any posts here!)._

 

I saw a 2020 system on Audiogon go for $399 recently. It's not listed anymore so someone must've bought it. I recently won a auction for a 2050II system on eBay for $370 so you can still find a good deal if you're patient.

 I haven't received my 2050II yet as the seller was a little slow to ship them out but it still beats paying around $750 that Yamasinc asks for a new one.


----------



## AudioCats

there is a SR-303/SRM300 combo in the for-sale section right now, for $650, you might be able to bargain and get it for a little less...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently won a auction for a 2050II system on eBay for $370 so you can still find a good deal if you're patient._

 

Sounds like a nice score.
 I am sure you will love the sound of a full-size Stax as well.


----------



## tk3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick solid state question in between: what was the difference between the SRM-717 and the SRM-717 DM?
 How is it possible that the Dutch Stax distributor still lists the SRM-717 DM and the SRM-727 as well? I thought the 717 was discontinued.
 Look at those insane prices btw... Number 4 Audio | Stax prijslijst_

 

Heh, I saw that site too when I was checking out if I could buy STAX locally.
 Just a glance at those prices killed that idea off VERY fast.
 OII (mk I) costs ~4200 USD converted without driver unit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On another topic, still waiting for the GES, the wait is really excruciating.
 2 days shipping from US to EU, and since then it's been in customs for a whole 12 days.
 I was hoping that it would be out of customs today, so that it might be shipped tomorrow and I could spend the weekend listening to the combo, but it does not seem that will happen, geez.
 Normally I don't mind waiting some weeks for packages, but this is a combo I really want to try, and I don't have much other gear to play around with right now, which makes it even worse.

 And the kicker is that you have to pay them for this delay, and hope that they don't open the package and screw around with the contents, possibly breaking the tubes or something like that.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's basically just trying different tubes to get better sound. That was the original idea but is has gone off the deep end with users rolling tubes to tailor the sound and equipment that comes with great stock tubes like the ECC99 is frowned upon as the sound can't be "altered" and made "better". The worst case scenarios is where the users spend large sums of money on different tubes where a simple change to the circuit or a new component would have been much better and for a lot less. This is a can of worms and fueled by badly designed equipment and people with more money then sense._

 

spritzer++


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_after all these talk, I finally broke down and bough the SR-3/SRM-6. I blame this on Birgir's "vintage romantic sound" statement....



_

 

There is a reason why I'm called "The Enabler"... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer++_

 

I try...


----------



## spacemanspliff

spritzer;3976193 said:
			
		

> There is a reason why I'm called "The Enabler"...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

That amp should be good for that price. It should be able to power the Lambda just fine...


----------



## gimmish

I'm in the same boat with you tk3 I just recieved an email from Jack and my GES will be delayed another ten days. That makes at least 3 more weeks. It's killing me because I sold my T1 and I can't listen to my O2. I have been listening to dynamics! Shure se310 IEMs through a Headroom micro amp. I may have to consider buying hd 650s just to hold me over. I can always sell them later.


----------



## ueyteuor

hi guy.. i am looking for parts that hold the driver to the headband.. for a lambda pro..... the plastic Y with a metal rod a the end... i just need 1, and the screw that hold the rod into place as well....

 anyone know where i can get these at??

 basically what i need


----------



## ueyteuor

anyone?


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

Unfortunately, those parts are not available. You can buy a replacement headband for the current generation of Lambdas , however, and it will work. If you are in the USA, you can purchase it from Yamas Enterprises at www.yamasinc.com .

 Happy Listening!


----------



## Faust2D

I got replacement pads for my Lambda because they were cheap 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, but I want to store them for now. What is the best way to store them? Should I put them in a ziplock bag? Will sticking them in the refrigerator help to maintain them longer?


----------



## spritzer

I have no idea really if there is anything you can do to keep the vinyl soft. Maybe some cryo treatments are in order...


----------



## Faust2D

Looks like the best thing to do it to keep them in a cool, dark place, in air tight container 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Since the original SR-Lambda pads are still nice, looks like I will be replacing my SR-303 pads first


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 hi guy.. i am looking for parts that hold the driver to the headband.. for a lambda pro..... the plastic Y with a metal rod a the end... i just need 1, and the screw that hold the rod into place as well....

 anyone know where i can get these at??

 basically what i need

 

I have a one of those for you but from the newer Lambda series (black)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Yeah my Lambdas are seriously comfortable still After 30yrs that is saying something about the pads lol. 

 Can't wait to get that old Sony amp in here and get some slam going lol.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gazza* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I too am one who is contemplating the dive into 'stats. My only real concern is how they handle Rock/Metal. I have listened extensively to various QUAD Stat speakers and whils they were amazing in many ways they just couldn't handle Hard Rock/Metal or any music with a lot of things happening at the same time.

 ._

 

Curious as to how they couldn't handle such music. Not sufficient the eardrum bleeding volume? In my experience stats excell at complex music because they have such low intermodualtion distortion and good transient response. However a lot of pop/rock music is poorly recorded and a revealing speaker or phone ends up showing this fact.

 My comments in another thread may be relevant here:


 "I have many rock/pop recordings which sound superb on a variety of my stat phones.

 The main problem with some, but not all pop/rock, inasmuch as it affects electrostatics, is that many are porrly recorded, especially with bad, hyped treble. Many dynamics sound better simply because they rarely have the treble extension and definition of a stat. In other words stats may reveal too much about bad recordings, showing them as they are.

 One solution is use of a filter, tone controls or an equalizer to get rid of the treble hash. For many years I used an equalizer to tailor the high frequency response with electrostatic phones. Many people don't like adding an additional processing stage but if you can put it nto a defeatable loop of say a preamp (my old Stax SRA 12S in fact allows this) there is no problem, because you just switch it in when you need it.

 Otherwise various tweaks can help an amp, such as a better power cord. Generally if you can get a bit more power supply to an amp it will have better dynamics, thus giving more rock to the sound and also pumping up the bass which will make the treble less powerful by comparison.

 You may have some luck tailoring treble and bass sound by experimenting with different interconnects, footers, and contact enhancers. I also like Herbies Grungebuster, a soft pad which sticks on to a cd as it plays. It has problems with some players because it can come off as the disc tray moves. In my main, top loading player it has no such problem since the tray does not move."


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi guy.. i am looking for parts that hold the driver to the headband.. for a lambda pro..... the plastic Y with a metal rod a the end... i just need 1, and the screw that hold the rod into place as well....

 anyone know where i can get these at??

 basically what i need




_

 

I have bought these from the US Stax distributor, Yamasinc.


----------



## ueyteuor

^ any idea on what they're called so i can order some?


----------



## spritzer

They are called forks and be sure to tell them that you need the older style if they still have some.


----------



## audiod

I just purchased a Gamma Pro. Should I put the drivers into one of my SR-XIII and turn it into a Pro or leave it alone? I always wanted a SR-XIII Pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just purchased a Gamma Pro. Should I put the drivers into one of my SR-XIII and turn it into a Pro or leave it alone? I always wanted a SR-XIII Pro._

 

I'd recommend it as the Gamma Pro is nothing special and the SR-X Pro is a nice improvement over the normal version. Still the end result is dependent on the glue used to edge out the extra 10% but it's not something to worry about. The only thing to worry about is to get the drivers out of the Gamma housing.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd recommend it as the Gamma Pro is nothing special and the SR-X Pro is a nice improvement over the normal version. Still the end result is dependent on the glue used to edge out the extra 10% but it's not something to worry about. The only thing to worry about is to get the drivers out of the Gamma housing._

 

How are the drivers mounted? Are they glued?


----------



## shamu144

Hi all,
 It is now almost 2 years that I am happily using my Stax SR-303, mostly thanks to some good advices from head-fier.
 Still, I just had an odd experience. I had the opportunity to attend a live performance of the Koln chamber ochestra (playing Vivaldi, Bach, Brahms and others, just very enjoying). Back home, I did put on again my Stax SR-303 and for the very first time (I don't know how it became so obvious to me after all this time) i realized the midrange of these earspeakers is indeed colored, as some of you already noticed.
 The best way to describe my impressions is describing the midrange somehow slighltly confused, echoing and lacking the lean and smooth sound it should provide as heard live. Do not get misunderstood, I am still extremely happy with the sound they provide, but I am wondering if any Stax earphones would offer the same quality as the SR-303 without this midrange coloration. I guess the O2 would of course, but are they any cheaper Stax earphones out there that could fullfill this requirement.
 I have to say that I am not using any Stax amplifier but a Stax transformer, the very seldomly seen Illusion ESC-1001 (pro biased only).
 Thanks in adavance,


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are the drivers mounted? Are they glued?_

 

They are fitted with thin double sided glue, pretty much the same stuff they use on the earpads.


----------



## _LN_

Found this on another forum, figured peeps here might be somewhat interested, because of the Stax hardware involved:
Finally! Firsthand demo of Smyth "SVS Realiser"

 Ellen


----------



## ak40ozKevin

I finally got my 2050II system today. Sounds so good but girlfriend says she won't ever be able to look at me and take me seriously with these things on. Can't really blame her for that though.


----------



## Faust2D

I took a look at Illusion ESC-1001 and have a question. Where can I buy sockets like this:






 ????


----------



## spacemanspliff

Yeah, Spritzer, is there a how-to for re-wiring the SRD-7 and adding upgraded sockets?


----------



## AudioCats

Just got my "new" SR-3/SRD-6 combo, I was quite impressed with the outside condition, basically excellent, but when I hook the box to my Kenwood amp..... no sound. After a while, there was sound not loud at all, lots of distortion. To me it was like there was no bias?

 So how long does it take to charge up the SRD-6 box? The seller claimmed the phones were working


----------



## spacemanspliff

check connections again and make certain the headspeakers are selected? works for me usually lol. even after the 2nd try.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my "new" SR-3/SRD-6 combo, I was quite impressed with the outside condition, basically excellent, but when I hook the box to my Kenwood amp..... no sound. After a while, there was sound not loud at all, lots of distortion. To me it was like there was no bias?

 So how long does it take to charge up the SRD-6 box? The seller claimmed the phones were working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My Magnavox, which is essentially the same thing, took 4-5 hours. The pics on eBay of the Realistic HP-1000 that just sold looked identical to the Magnavox. Exact same housing.


----------



## AudioCats

hummm, now the volume is kind of ok, no channel imbalance, but the sound is "broken".... the distortion is kind of scarey, not like how my ESP7's were when they were charging up. now I kind of suspect the SR-3 drivers are having problem..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The price on this set was good, I really want to keep them. Lets hope 24 hours playing will solve the problem. Fingers crossed.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I took a look at Illusion ESC-1001 and have a question. Where can I buy sockets like this:






 ????_

 

It looks like teflon and that sparked the ole' light bulb. I have an email off to Yamamoto Sound Craft to see if we could get him to machine a small quantity for us. I'm building a Blue Hawaii pretty soon (ordered the tranny so far -thanks naamanf) so I'd be willing to buy a few. I know someone else that's designing a 'stat amp now so I'll contact him when I get a reply. Yamamoto is at it's heart, a mil specs machining house so I'd say our odds are pretty good. 
 BTW what's Justin using on his amps?
 Almost forgot. Here's a link to his tubes socket page;
Tube socket list english


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My latest find STAX SRM-1/MK-2 Professional Headphone Amplifier - eBay (item 320229450739 end time Mar-24-08 22:17:19 PDT)

 I think the price was fair, and I'll lending my silver one to my son for his SR-5 gold.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My latest find STAX SRM-1/MK-2 Professional Headphone Amplifier - eBay (item 320229450739 end time Mar-24-08 22:17:19 PDT)

 I think the price was fair, and I'll lending my silver one to my son for his SR-5 gold._

 

dang! i bid on that too, hoping it would be my sr-lambda pro amp! i am still ampless!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shamu144* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all,
 It is now almost 2 years that I am happily using my Stax SR-303, mostly thanks to some good advices from head-fier.
 Still, I just had an odd experience. I had the opportunity to attend a live performance of the Koln chamber ochestra (playing Vivaldi, Bach, Brahms and others, just very enjoying). Back home, I did put on again my Stax SR-303 and for the very first time (I don't know how it became so obvious to me after all this time) i realized the midrange of these earspeakers is indeed colored, as some of you already noticed.
 The best way to describe my impressions is describing the midrange somehow slighltly confused, echoing and lacking the lean and smooth sound it should provide as heard live. Do not get misunderstood, I am still extremely happy with the sound they provide, but I am wondering if any Stax earphones would offer the same quality as the SR-303 without this midrange coloration. I guess the O2 would of course, but are they any cheaper Stax earphones out there that could fullfill this requirement.
 I have to say that I am not using any Stax amplifier but a Stax transformer, the very seldomly seen Illusion ESC-1001 (pro biased only).
 Thanks in adavance,_

 

I am not familiar with the 303, but I do have a 404 and Lambda Nova. The most obvious coloration to me is a slight bass boominess, especially in the 404and some lower treble harshness or etch. I am using either the Stax SRM3 or 717 amps. Possibly the transformer has its own character. Have you tried running the phone off one of the better amps.

 Several here think the Koss ESP 950 driven by a Stax set-up is more neutral than the lambda series. My only reservation about them is that I cannot run them at full volume with some music on the Stax amps because they show some breakup distortion, probably due to the slightly lower bias of the Stax amps. Generally people are happy with them matched with Stax drivers.

 I don't know how one can always tell where the problem lies in a stereo system. Some of the coloration could be in the recording or in the audio chain. If you are using a transformer that means a preamp, power amp as well as the transformer, and connections between them all. I recently started using silver interconnects between my CD player or DAC and Stax amps and noted a marked improvement in midrange-treble clarity in all my systems. Heck try the Tweekgeek silver interconnects (originally digital links) for $34.95/pair. 

Pure silver audio video cables at TweekGeek.com

 They could give you some idea. Otherwise I have found some silver IC's in the low $100.00 plus range that sounded better than my old Monster Cable 950I's.


----------



## ueyteuor

does anyone have any info on the old srm-1 amp?? i can't find any info on it... how does it do when the sr-lambda pros are driven from it, and what's the differences between the srm-1 and srm-1/mkII?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone have any info on the old srm-1 amp?? i can't find any info on it... how does it do when the sr-lambda pros are driven from it, and what's the differences between the srm-1 and srm-1/mkII?_

 

I think I know the amp you're looking at. That one's only normal bias, I believe. For the Lambda pro, you'll want either an SRM-1 pro or a mkII (or a different pro-bias amp, of course)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Sorry about that, but I'm sure your day will come. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was looking for an SRM-T1 but this seemed like all we needed for now. All you had to do was bid more than $403.99 to win it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I took a look at Illusion ESC-1001 and have a question. Where can I buy sockets like this:






 ????_

 

You can get them from Tachyon when you buy and adapter as well... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do think that they are made my Yamamoto for them as they are pretty much the same as the tube sockets. 

 Edit: It looks like the socket is already avaialble. Look at the No.4 socket in the link above... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, Spritzer, is there a how-to for re-wiring the SRD-7 and adding upgraded sockets?_

 

Not that I'm aware of. It's not that hard to figure out which wire goes where when you look at the internals. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone have any info on the old srm-1 amp?? i can't find any info on it... how does it do when the sr-lambda pros are driven from it, and what's the differences between the srm-1 and srm-1/mkII?_

 

There were some upgrades to the circuit with the output transistors biased higher so more dissipation was needed.


----------



## shamu144

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not familiar with the 303, but I do have a 404 and Lambda Nova. The most obvious coloration to me is a slight bass boominess, especially in the 404and some lower treble harshness or etch. I am using either the Stax SRM3 or 717 amps. Possibly the transformer has its own character. Have you tried running the phone off one of the better amps.

 Several here think the Koss ESP 950 driven by a Stax set-up is more neutral than the lambda series. My only reservation about them is that I cannot run them at full volume with some music on the Stax amps because they show some breakup distortion, probably due to the slightly lower bias of the Stax amps. Generally people are happy with them matched with Stax drivers.

 I don't know how one can always tell where the problem lies in a stereo system. Some of the coloration could be in the recording or in the audio chain. If you are using a transformer that means a preamp, power amp as well as the transformer, and connections between them all. I recently started using silver interconnects between my CD player or DAC and Stax amps and noted a marked improvement in midrange-treble clarity in all my systems. Heck try the Tweekgeek silver interconnects (originally digital links) for $34.95/pair. 

Pure silver audio video cables at TweekGeek.com

 They could give you some idea. Otherwise I have found some silver IC's in the low $100.00 plus range that sounded better than my old Monster Cable 950I's._

 

Thanks for your feedback...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, I was maybe not accurate enough. The coloration i notice is a "mechanical" coloration, and not a sonical coloration (hence not coming from other components).
 I very much like the sound I get from my SR-303 and do not notice any coloration nor in the bass or treble at all.
 Best way to describe it is that in the midrange, it looks like the sound is echoing (maybe due to the build of the case of the earspeaker).
 I very much want to keep up with Stax earspeakers, so if you know of other models that are mechanical coloration-free, i would very much appreciate your recommendations.


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not familiar with the 303, but I do have a 404 and Lambda Nova._

 

Which Lambda Nova do you have -- I assume a Classic, since you also have an SRM-3? If so, what are the differences between the Nova Classic and the 404, sound wise? Do you think the 404's slightly lesser sibling 303 would be a worthwhile upgrade, while sticking with the SRM-3?

 Ellen


----------



## pabbi1

Anypone know a supplier on those Yamamoto sockets?


----------



## spacemanspliff

So what should I look to do for improving the SRD-7? Just the basic "bang for buck" tweaks.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what should I look to do for improving the SRD-7? Just the basic "bang for buck" tweaks._

 

Check out my post #1583. (page 159)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out my post #1583. (page 159)_

 

Ty. 

 What are Illusions? Is there a reasonably priced upgrade from the SRD-7?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ty. 

 What are Illusions? Is there a reasonably priced upgrade from the SRD-7?_

 

The Illusion ESC-1001 is a battery powered energizer for Stax 'phones.
 Link: ‚ä‚Æ‚è‚ÌƒI[ƒfƒBƒIwŽŽ’®‰®x
 Picture: http://www.tachyon.co.jp/~sichoya/il...C-1001left.jpg

 It has a retail price of JPY 68,000 (~USD 680)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Illusion ESC-1001 is a battery powered energizer for Stax 'phones.
 Link: ‚ä‚Æ‚è‚ÌƒI[ƒfƒBƒIwŽŽ’®‰®x
 Picture: http://www.tachyon.co.jp/~sichoya/il...C-1001left.jpg

 It has a retail price of JPY 68,000 (~USD 680)_

 

lol that = no way atm then. ty tho


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anypone know a supplier on those Yamamoto sockets?_

 

The US distributor for the amps could maybe help us or even EIFL. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what should I look to do for improving the SRD-7? Just the basic "bang for buck" tweaks._

 

Find some good solid core copper wire (OCC is good) and replace the input wiring directly to the transformers. That would be a solid upgrade and soe it doing the same to the other side i.e. directly from the transformers to the sockets.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shamu144* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your feedback...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, I was maybe not accurate enough. The coloration i notice is a "mechanical" coloration, and not a sonical coloration (hence not coming from other components).
 I very much like the sound I get from my SR-303 and do not notice any coloration nor in the bass or treble at all.
 Best way to describe it is that in the midrange, it looks like the sound is echoing (maybe due to the build of the case of the earspeaker).
 I very much want to keep up with Stax earspeakers, so if you know of other models that are mechanical coloration-free, i would very much appreciate your recommendations.




_

 

Given the very small spaces inside a headphone I doubt that you could hear an echo distinct from the main signal in the transducer. Possibly its a "rattle," i.e. something loose in the headphone, which needs re-attaching more securely.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_LN_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which Lambda Nova do you have -- I assume a Classic, since you also have an SRM-3? If so, what are the differences between the Nova Classic and the 404, sound wise? Do you think the 404's slightly lesser sibling 303 would be a worthwhile upgrade, while sticking with the SRM-3?

 Ellen_

 

It just says "Stax Lambda Nova." It looks like the "classic" picture on the Stax site. I would say the the 404 had a warmer sound with better detail in the treble almost like there's another 1/2 to full octave of treble compared to the Nova. The bass seemed a little more substantial too. 

 With the 303 you will get whatever adavantage there is to the thinner transducer membrane. With the 404 you get the additional advantages of the low capacitance cable. 

 I use my 404 mostly with a 717 amp and the Nova with a SRM3. The Nova seems well matched to the SRM3 and it was released the same year as the amp (1994) so possibly Stax was able to match it to the amp. It seems to have less tendency to "etch" that the 404 meaning that it is more forgiving of recordings with edgy treble.

 I suspect you will hear some gain in the treble with the 303 over the Nova but who knows without trying them out.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Thanks. Do I need to allow the unit to discharge or anything before tinkering?


----------



## AudioCats

ok, 24 hours later the SR-3 is sounding pretty good, better than my ESP7 (of course, right?)


----------



## ironbut

I got an email from Shigeki Yamamoto today and he said he's unable to make the sockets. Maybe some sort of patent infringement thing that he has to be licensed to make. I don't have any 5 pin tubes (that I know of, I should check my boat anchor box) but I might try and find one of the tubes that #4 is made for and measure it. If it's close, I'll order a cheap socket for the same tube from Antique Electronics Supply and see if it works.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Do I need to allow the unit to discharge or anything before tinkering?_

 

You can but there is no reason to do so as you won't come near the bias supply which has the only two caps in the unit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok, 24 hours later the SR-3 is sounding pretty good, better than my ESP7 (of course, right?) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironbut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got an email from Shigeki Yamamoto today and he said he's unable to make the sockets. Maybe some sort of patent infringement thing that he has to be licensed to make. I don't have any 5 pin tubes (that I know of, I should check my boat anchor box) but I might try and find one of the tubes that #4 is made for and measure it. If it's close, I'll order a cheap socket for the same tube from Antique Electronics Supply and see if it works._

 

Considering that Stax doesn't own the socket this is bull. I know that the 5 pin socket for the 807 tube is too big for Stax but looking at pictures of the inside of the Illusion it could very well be that socket as the mounting is the same. Do any of the ESC-1001 owners care to pop the hood and see if there are any marking on the socket?


----------



## spritzer

I've looked into it and the Yamamoto socket is for a 807 tube so it won't fit a Stax plug.


----------



## facelvega

FYI, it seems that Koss will sell the ESP950 headset by itself after all, but for the kingly sum of $500. I paste below an email I just received from Koss on the subject:

 "Thank you for your recent email. The ESP950 headset only would be $500.00. If you wish to place the order you would need to place the order over the phone or through the mail by check or money order. I hope this helps, if you have any further questions please feel free to contact us by email or by phone at the number below.



 Thank you
 Leslie
 Koss Consumer Sales
 4129 N. Port Washington Avenue
 Milwaukee, WI 53212
 Fax:414-332-5491
 800-872-5677 or 414-964-5000"


----------



## Comfy

Are there any "easy" ways to turn an SR-404 into something with the sonic characteristics of an SR-4070? 
 (And by easy I mean easier than selling the SR-404 and saving the extra for the SR-4070...)

 And one contribution: If you have a pair of old SR-Lambdas and you love the sonics to bits but would like them to be a little more comfortable, put some SR-202 pads on them. I did, and it's like dipping your head into a huge bowl of cotton candy (only with sweet sound replacing sweet taste).


----------



## Faust2D

I found SR-Lambda pads to be better than 202 pads. Why do you like 202 pads?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI, it seems that Koss will sell the ESP950 headset by itself after all, but for the kingly sum of $500. I paste below an email I just received from Koss on the subject:

 "Thank you for your recent email. The ESP950 headset only would be $500.00. If you wish to place the order you would need to place the order over the phone or through the mail by check or money order. I hope this helps, if you have any further questions please feel free to contact us by email or by phone at the number below.



 Thank you
 Leslie
 Koss Consumer Sales
 4129 N. Port Washington Avenue
 Milwaukee, WI 53212
 Fax:414-332-5491
 800-872-5677 or 414-964-5000"_

 

Very interesting, now all one needs is a koss to stax adapter.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI, it seems that Koss will sell the ESP950 headset by itself after all, but for the kingly sum of $500. I paste below an email I just received from Koss on the subject:
 <snip>_

 

Its nice to see the ESP950 available without the horrible (as they say) amplifier.
 I have had my eyes on it for a while, and will certainly consider this one..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any "easy" ways to turn an SR-404 into something with the sonic characteristics of an SR-4070? 
 (And by easy I mean easier than selling the SR-404 and saving the extra for the SR-4070...)_

 

Probably not!
 It involves ripping the SR-404 apart. Making a closed back housing, more or less like the 4070, so you can mount the SR-404 drivers and forks/headband. Its certainly possible, but not sure its "easy"..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any "easy" ways to turn an SR-404 into something with the sonic characteristics of an SR-4070? 
 (And by easy I mean easier than selling the SR-404 and saving the extra for the SR-4070...)_

 

Easy... no. There is a lot of design work that went into the 4070 so slapping a closed back on them isn't going to work. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found SR-Lambda pads to be better than 202 pads. Why do you like 202 pads?_

 

They are exactly the same except newer. The material might have changed a bit over the years but it's tough to tell as vinyl ages quite badly.


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found SR-Lambda pads to be better than 202 pads. Why do you like 202 pads?_

 

My 20 year old original pads were much harder than the new 202 pads. Just that.

 On another note, it's seems pretty hard to upgrade from a SRM-1 + SR-Lambda combo without really hurting my wallet. I find this a little saddening, as minor upgrades have always been a fun thing to aim for. In the stat universe it seems like the next logical step (or considerable improvement) would be a KGSS, and later on an SR-007, with both of them tripling my current stat budget... But I guess the journey is more important than the destination (as I've just ordered an SR-404 to feed this hunger...). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Easy... no. There is a lot of design work that went into the 4070 so slapping a closed back on them isn't going to work._

 

Too much work anyways. I was thinking more along the lines of cupping my hands over the earcups.


----------



## J-Pak

Do the SR-202 pads match the SR-Lambda? The images on GIS make them look black, but I want to be sure if I'm ordering some.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do the SR-202 pads match the SR-Lambda? The images on GIS make them look black, but I want to be sure if I'm ordering some._

 

I ordered some SR-202 pads from Audio Cubes II and certainly received all-black ones. Which fit the SR-Lambda Pro perfectly.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do the SR-202 pads match the SR-Lambda? The images on GIS make them look black, but I want to be sure if I'm ordering some._

 

They look the same as the old pads so they fit just fine.


----------



## Faust2D

SR-202 pads seemed a bit more vinyl like to me and the pads on my 20 year old SR-Lambda are very soft and feel more like leather. Maybe someone changed the pads on my SR-Lambda to some other pads? What other black pads were there?


----------



## scompton

Some vintage stats on eBay
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


 We offer up for your consideration this vintage
 pair of lightweight electrostatic working headphones.

 They are in excellent cosmetic and mechanical condition.

 This item was recently acquired at a local estate sale.


----------



## Elec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Comfy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On another note, it's seems pretty hard to upgrade from a SRM-1 + SR-Lambda combo without really hurting my wallet. I find this a little saddening, as minor upgrades have always been a fun thing to aim for. In the stat universe it seems like the next logical step (or considerable improvement) would be a KGSS, and later on an SR-007, with both of them tripling my current stat budget... But I guess the journey is more important than the destination (as I've just ordered an SR-404 to feed this hunger...). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, that's kinda rough. I'm looking at Stax setups and going "Well I could get a 3050. But a 4040 isn't much more and you get better phones AND driver." But after that, you're talking about O2s that cost as much or more than a whole 4040 system, and an amp/driver that costs at least as much as a 4040, maybe a few times as much depending on which one you pick. Then I think about just going to a 007 system to avoid upgraditis, but that takes me back to the beginning and wondering if it's really 3x better than a 3050


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some vintage stats on eBay
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't look much like stats to me, from that pic, especially with the standard headphone plug. Maybe electrets.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-202 pads seemed a bit more vinyl like to me and the pads on my 20 year old SR-Lambda are very soft and feel more like leather. Maybe someone changed the pads on my SR-Lambda to some other pads? What other black pads were there?_

 

The finish on the new pads is a bit different but they are more comfortable then any one of the older pads. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't look much like stats to me, from that pic, especially with the standard headphone plug. Maybe electrets._

 

Could be but there isn't much room for transformers even if they are tiny.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't look much like stats to me, from that pic, especially with the standard headphone plug. Maybe electrets._

 

Sort of. Piezoelectric. But piezo the bad way, using rochelle salt crystals. This is just a cheap old mono crystal headphone, one step up from the crystal earphone your granddad used to listen to the ballgame with.

 Piezo used to be all over low-end home audio. Crystal phono cartridges, crystal mics, crystal earphones. All gone now.


----------



## waddragon

man, this thread have too many pages to read. I think we should have start a new one.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *waddragon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_man, this thread have too many pages to read. I think we should have start a new one._

 

You don't retroactively read it all, you search it for whatever you need or wonder about, and maybe you join the club and start keeping track of it from now on.


----------



## yarinkel

If the threads regularly grows to such extend, it would be time to consider setting up a stax sub-forum.


----------



## JimP

I've tried searching but not much is coming up:

 Question is, does anyone have actual experience with Stax SRD7mkII (or Pro) with 4070 or OII? Of course, this is premised on the energizer/transformer hooked up to a decent amp. Is this a credible option? Or don't bother? Any input from persons that have tried this would be very helpful. I suspect several people will respond with "get a real direct stax amp", but again what I'm trying to assess is if the SRD7mkII + my Almarro would be a credible interim solution with 4070 and/or OII.


----------



## spacemanspliff

sure it will. I have the srd-7 and an old Sony TA-N110 and it sounds fine to me. my source could be better and I need to upgrade the wiring in the srd-7 but still, very nice sound.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..... but again what I'm trying to assess is if the SRD7mkII + my Almarro would be a credible interim solution with 4070 and/or OII._

 

I don't know your Almarro but in general a decent loudspeaker amp/Stax transformer solution tends to sound better than cheap direct drive amps and it's basically for free when you already own such a loudspeaker amp since you can sell the SRD later without or minor loss.
 One caveat though: the SRDs are age old and often slightly corroded.You have to apply something like DeOxit or even better you could mod it by implanting decent modern gold plated speaker binding posts.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *waddragon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_man, this thread have too many pages to read. I think we should have start a new one._

 

I don't see why.
 No need to read it all, as you can just search. With the benefit that you don't need to search several threads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've tried searching but not much is coming up:

 Question is, does anyone have actual experience with Stax SRD7mkII (or Pro) with 4070 or OII?_

 

I have, and posted about it somewhere in here I think.
 Hooked up an SRD-7 (don't remember if I used the Pro or MKII) to an Lyngdorf TDAI 2200 and my Doxa 70 Signature MKII. Then plugged in my SR-007BL.

 My short impressions are that I lost some of the details. But gained control.
 Compared to driven by my SRM-007t that is.


----------



## Downrange

Yes. I ran a SRD7Pro with OIIs.

 It sucked.

 Get a real amp for the OIIs.


----------



## orkney

Hi guys,

 I don't mean to threadjack but thought since this is the all-things-Stax thread...

 I'd like to try a Stax setup but don't think I can stretch to the 303/404. Wondering if the 2050 system is a reasonable way in to the house sound -- I'm happy with my dynamic setup but thought a small Stax setup would be good for the office. Reading a number of Stax threads gives no consensus on the quality of the entry-level packages and I'm thinking new rather than vintage models if possible.

 thanks and best,

 o


----------



## scompton

You could go vintage for less than $200. There was a thread last month on inexpensive stats. Inexpensive being relative. I got lucky and won a Magnavox that's the equivalent of an SR-3 for $1.04 a couple of weeks ago. They sound great. Not as good as the higher end stuff, but a great introduction. Last week a similar Realistic stat went for under $100. SR-5s go for under $200. Since these are the models I have, I can't comment on the 2050. But, if I had the money for them, I'd buy them.


----------



## vpivinylspinner

I have a question about 007t internals. Can someone tell me the meaning of the LEDs marked D3 and D4 in each channel. I was getting some static in my left channel so I decided to adjust bias to see if that could be the problem. I noticed that the D3 LED on the Left Channel was out and as I adjusted the TRV1 pot the LED would turn on but only when the volt meter was reading well off of the recommended Zero volts. All three other LEDs are lit up so I assume this one should be as well.

 After adjusting the bias for what seemed forever I have gotten rid of the static/distortion but I am still wondering about D3.


----------



## ueyteuor

guys, anyone willing to sell a srm-1/mk2?? i've had a wtb ad in the fs forums for quite a while.. but haven't seemed to have any luck.. so just incase any of you missed my ad, and have one you'd sell me, pm me.....


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could go vintage for less than $200. There was a thread last month on inexpensive stats. Inexpensive being relative. I got lucky and won a Magnavox that's the equivalent of an SR-3 for $1.04 a couple of weeks ago. They sound great. Not as good as the higher end stuff, but a great introduction. Last week a similar Realistic stat went for under $100. SR-5s go for under $200. Since these are the models I have, I can't comment on the 2050. But, if I had the money for them, I'd buy them._

 

Good advice. I'd take a Magnavox over an actual SR-3 because of the nice build quality and super-plush earpads. The SR-5 are grand for the money too, but I don't know if either option is great for an office rig, as they'll also require an amp behind the SRD box-- though I suppose a little T-amp would do the trick, I just heard an SR-5/SRD-7sb on a T-amp and it was quite nice. The 2050, on the other hand, would indeed be better and the little amp is quite compact.


----------



## kpeezy

Definitely watch ebay like a madman. A pair of SR-X/MK3 Pros just went for $69 buy it now. You can get a sweet deal if you're very heads up. 

 Also, I've already told most people I know so I'll post it here now. There is a pair of normal bias Lambdas on audiogon for $190. That's definitely a good start.


----------



## facelvega

.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, I've already told most people I know so I'll post it here now. There is a pair of normal bias Lambdas on audiogon for $190. That's definitely a good start._

 

Nice! But sadly they are US only, or else I would have snagged them.


----------



## Faust2D

They are long gone from agon, the listing just was not updated. The Gamma Pro from the same add was gone that same day.


----------



## scompton

I run the Magnavox in my office with the Super T. I also just recently bought the Sonic Impact V2 because of the headphone jack. The V2's bass rolls off a little more but at 1/3 the price is a good deal. The headphone jack is worthless though. I was lucky enough to get the Super T for $75 which was a great deal.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *orkney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I don't mean to threadjack but thought since this is the all-things-Stax thread...

 I'd like to try a Stax setup but don't think I can stretch to the 303/404. Wondering if the 2050 system is a reasonable way in to the house sound -- I'm happy with my dynamic setup but thought a small Stax setup would be good for the office. Reading a number of Stax threads gives no consensus on the quality of the entry-level packages and I'm thinking new rather than vintage models if possible.

 thanks and best,

 o_

 

I think it unlikely that you will get a good intro to Stax sound from the pre-lambdas. Stax phones earlier than that period had fairly weak bass, the SRX3 3 for example has well-defined midrange but sounds rather thin and bass shy and I find unlistenable with much material.

 With the lambdas and also the Sigmas you get more emphasis on bass response. 

 Also it is getting increasingly difficult to get a good deal on old Stax as e-bay prices keep going up. The vintage Stax are good for collectors who already have a good set and want to hear unusual sonic signatures but you want something for regular use.

 I think the cheaper new lambdas are a good deal, especially ordered direct from Japan. The 202 system uses an external power supply which could be upgraded at little cost by using something like a bench power supply.


----------



## orkney

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it unlikely that you will get a good intro to Stax sound from the pre-lambdas. Stax phones earlier than that period had fairly weak bass, the SRX3 3 for example has well-defined midrange but sounds rather thin and bass shy and I find unlistenable with much material.

 With the lambdas and also the Sigmas you get more emphasis on bass response. 

 Also it is getting increasingly difficult to get a good deal on old Stax as e-bay prices keep going up. The vintage Stax are good for collectors who already have a good set and want to hear unusual sonic signatures but you want something for regular use.

 I think the cheaper new lambdas are a good deal, especially ordered direct from Japan. The 202 system uses an external power supply which could be upgraded at little cost by using something like a bench power supply._

 

Thanks for the response -- very helpful. I think I may go for the 2050 II from Japan if I can't find one used (unlikely). I notice that a few sites list a step-up transformer as an option, given the difference between US/CAN and Japanese power voltage/cycles. Are these mandatory or are less expensive alternatives available here? I'll look into the bench PS -- unfamiliar with it. 

 Thanks again and best,

 o


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A pair of SR-X/MK3 *Pros* just went for $69 buy it now. You can get a sweet deal if you're very heads up. 
_


----------



## ericj

I finally bought a new scanner. Well, by "new" i mean i went to a local university surplus sale and bought a perfectly serviceable 8 year old high-end scanner for $10. 

 Since the schlub who sold me this manual only gave me a third generation photocopy, some of the diagrams aren't as easy to read as i wish they were. I've enhanced them the best that i know how, and they're readable, if you zoom in. Curse Marantz for overlaying 8-point text over half-tone graphics. Thankfully, they only did that to figure 8. 

 It's really hard to get a good pure black/white scan off crappy copies like this, so i scanned grayscale and enhanced. The whole thing comes out to 2.2 megs worth in 10 jpg files. It could be distilled into a pdf, but i don't know how, and i suspect that some of the diagrams would become unreadable when flattened to pure black/white for insertion into the pdf. 

 So without further adoo, Here is the service manual for the Marantz SE-1S Electrostatic Headphones, aka SE-1 'phones and EE-1 energizer. Includes exploded mechanical diagrams, wiring diagrams, parts lists, component values, diagnostic steps, and schematics.

 There. Now anyone googling for this manual will perhaps find it here for free, and won't have to give some guy $10 for a lousy photocopy.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely watch ebay like a madman. A pair of SR-X/MK3 Pros just went for $69 buy it now. You can get a sweet deal if you're very heads up. _

 









 Where did you see that?


----------



## Faust2D

STAX ELECTROSTATIC SR-X MK 3 HEADPHONES - eBay (item 290215892434 end time Mar-19-08 18:52:04 PDT)

 Sure don't look like pro to me .....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely watch ebay like a madman. A pair of SR-X/MK3 Pros just went for $69 buy it now. You can get a sweet deal if you're very heads up._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX ELECTROSTATIC SR-X MK 3 HEADPHONES - eBay (item 290215892434 end time Mar-19-08 18:52:04 PDT)

 Sure don't look like pro to me ....._

 

Great price for an SR-X/MK3. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 You probably talk about the same pair, which don't look to be Pro bias to me. Still a bargain though...


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* 
_So without further ado, here is the service manual for the Marantz SE-1S Electrostatic Headphones, aka SE-1 'phones and EE-1 energizer. Includes exploded mechanical diagrams, wiring diagrams, parts lists, component values, diagnostic steps, and schematics.

 There._

 

Excellent. Thanks for doing the eyestrain for us. The scans look great. Nice to have the specs (eg, bias = 220v; diaphragm has _metallic_ resistive coating, &c.) and the official proprietary Stax term for damping: *dump*.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX ELECTROSTATIC SR-X MK 3 HEADPHONES - eBay (item 290215892434 end time Mar-19-08 18:52:04 PDT)

 Sure don't look like pro to me ....._

 

Bought 3 hours after the auction started. You needed to be looking at the right time.


----------



## spacemanspliff

love the Old Sony A-n110 w/ my srd-7! great control and slam w/ excellent dynamics. Very nice for electronica.


----------



## randerson3024

I just upgraded from Shunyata Pythons to Anacondas. Big difference on the Omega 1's and SRM 727. More fluid and warm.


----------



## audiod

I really like the sound of my new Gamma Pro's. Do you think that I should take the Pro drivers out and turn one of my SR-XIII into Pro's?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really like the sound of my new Gamma Pro's. Do you think that I should take the Pro drivers out and turn one of my SR-XIII into Pro's?_

 

If you like how they sound why would you want to kill 'em?


----------



## Faust2D

Does anyone want Stax-Omega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




SR-Ω


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone want Stax-Omega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




SR-Ω_

 

Looks very nice, for sure!
 But sadly its a lot of hassle buying from Yahoo! Japan, using some kind of deputy service.

 The price is a bit high as well. Imo that is...


----------



## evil-zen

I heard Gamma Pro and normal and to me there is not a significant difference in the sound. I quite like the gamma pro myself so if you like it too, I don't see why you should risk removing it and transplanting it into a SR-X. 


 The glue on Stax headphones are strong. You risk damaging the dust cover if you remove it.


----------



## 2deadeyes

$3k is a bit hard to swallow for a pair of headphones that won't have its original parts replaced (drivers at least) should something happen.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent. Thanks for doing the eyestrain for us. The scans look great. Nice to have the specs (eg, bias = 220v; diaphragm has metallic resistive coating, &c.) and the official proprietary Stax term for damping: *dump*._

 

Here we have the reason why they don't like the Stax bias supplies. They need much higher value bleed resistors then the 2M-5M in the Stax supplies. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just upgraded from Shunyata Pythons to Anacondas. Big difference on the Omega 1's and SRM 727. More fluid and warm._

 

Good to know but I I'll have to make some solid silver PC's for you when I have some materials. No weaves or some other crap like that, just 3 properly damped conductors. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really like the sound of my new Gamma Pro's. Do you think that I should take the Pro drivers out and turn one of my SR-XIII into Pro's?_

 

I think you know my answer but it needs a very steady hand but the end result is worth it. The SR-X Pro has become my most used headphone and that is no small feat. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone want Stax-Omega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




SR-Ω_

 

Even if they didn't have SR-007 drivers it's a very high price for a SR-Ω


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you know my answer but it needs a very steady hand but the end result is worth it. The SR-X Pro has become my most used headphone and that is no small feat._

 

Did you also transfer the Gamma Pro cable to the SR-X? Did you keep the stock SR-X damping material? How is the SR-X Pro bass compared to the Gamma Pro?

 Birgir, Thanks for your thoughts... Doug


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you know my answer but it needs a very steady hand but the end result is worth it. The SR-X Pro has become my most used headphone and that is no small feat._

 

I really like the SR-X/MK3, and presume I would like the SR-X/MK3 Pro even more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 /me gotta pick up a Gamma Pro, or just the two drivers if I find some.


----------



## kpeezy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX ELECTROSTATIC SR-X MK 3 HEADPHONES - eBay (item 290215892434 end time Mar-19-08 18:52:04 PDT)

 Sure don't look like pro to me ....._

 

Yep, not Pro. I didn't even see the sixth pin 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I had to really look to see it just now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you also transfer the Gamma Pro cable to the SR-X? Did you keep the stock SR-X damping material? How is the SR-X Pro bass compared to the Gamma Pro?

 Birgir, Thanks for your thoughts... Doug
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The first one I did was a direct clone of the original Stax model so I converted a normal bias cable over to pro spec by slicing open the strain relief on the plug, cutting the blue wire and joining it to the black one and insulating properly. Then I glued the strain relief back in place and drilled out the middle pin which was no connected to nothing. I left all the damping material in and connected the cable to the drivers via the pins. 

 My second one was built of scraps really so I had the GP drivers and a broken GP cable. I cut off all the strain relief stuff and just used a bit of heatshrink on the cable to protect it from sharp bends. I also used this set to experiment on and I ended with all the damping material in place as it helps to tame the midrange. The other three sets I've made have all been like the original one but the one with the ribbon cable has become my beater set as it was free to male. There isn't much of a difference in the sound between the cables and I much prefer the original look. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really like the SR-X/MK3, and presume I would like the SR-X/MK3 Pro even more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 /me gotta pick up a Gamma Pro, or just the two drivers if I find some._

 

I have an Alpha Pro for you if you want...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The first one I did was a direct clone of the original Stax model so I converted a normal bias cable over to pro spec by slicing open the strain relief on the plug, cutting the blue wire and joining it to the black one and insulating properly. Then I glued the strain relief back in place and drilled out the middle pin which was no connected to nothing. I left all the damping material in and connected the cable to the drivers via the pins. 

 My second one was built of scraps really so I had the GP drivers and a broken GP cable. I cut off all the strain relief stuff and just used a bit of heatshrink on the cable to protect it from sharp bends. I also used this set to experiment on and I ended with all the damping material in place as it helps to tame the midrange. The other three sets I've made have all been like the original one but the one with the ribbon cable has become my beater set as it was free to male. There isn't much of a difference in the sound between the cables and I much prefer the original look. 

 I have an Alpha Pro for you if you want... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So really, what does the SRX pro sound like, say compared to the SRX3 or lambda pros? The only report I have seen of these was a brief mention by Kevin Gilmore some years ago who had two pairs I believe but didn't seem to care for them much.


----------



## spritzer

I've never been much of a SR-X Mk3 fan over the years and have always thought they were too bland for their own good and while being monitors they lacked imaging and some bass presence. The treble was also a bit rolled off and that made them sound even more bland to my ears. 

 The Pro drivers bring much more control with them along with much more tightly defined bass and treble. They can also soundstage a bit now but they are still very claustrophobic compared to a Lambda or ESP/950. Those that have heard the 4070 will recognize the deep and dry bass immediately. The midrange takes on a bit of a SR-007 quality with a strong, defined center image with vocals standing a bit out with multi miked recordings. Now whether or not these improvements are down to the better drivers, superior glue used or my OCD like rebuilding is tough to know but it should be a combination of all factors. All in all they are excellent phones and set a new standard for supra-aurals.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I heard Gamma Pro and normal and to me there is not a significant difference in the sound. I quite like the gamma pro myself so if you like it too, I don't see why you should risk removing it and transplanting it into a SR-X. 


 The glue on Stax headphones are strong. You risk damaging the dust cover if you remove it._

 

Pfffffft. You're just not hardcore enough to try it for yourself


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been much of a SR-X Mk3 fan over the years and have always thought they were too bland for their own good and while being monitors they lacked imaging and some bass presence. The treble was also a bit rolled off and that made them sound even more bland to my ears._

 

I've owned SR-XIII's for about 30 years and never thought of them as bland or rolled off. 

 I will put the Gamma Pro drivers into my SR-X in the next few days. Report and pix to follow.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've owned SR-XIII's for about 30 years and never thought of them as bland or rolled off. 

 I will put the Gamma Pro drivers into my SR-X in the next few days. Report and pix to follow._

 

Cool. If you rip off the dust cover it is easy to replace it with some PVC film.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been much of a SR-X Mk3 fan over the years and have always thought they were too bland for their own good and while being monitors they lacked imaging and some bass presence. The treble was also a bit rolled off and that made them sound even more bland to my ears. 

 The Pro drivers bring much more control with them along with much more tightly defined bass and treble. They can also soundstage a bit now but they are still very claustrophobic compared to a Lambda or ESP/950. Those that have heard the 4070 will recognize the deep and dry bass immediately. The midrange takes on a bit of a SR-007 quality with a strong, defined center image with vocals standing a bit out with multi miked recordings. Now whether or not these improvements are down to the better drivers, superior glue used or my OCD like rebuilding is tough to know but it should be a combination of all factors. All in all they are excellent phones and set a new standard for supra-aurals._

 

Thanks for the report.

 I am puzzled about the soundstage issue since I don't see how phones can make much of a difference to soundstage. 


 Basically a stereo imaging which gives rise to a soundstage is caused by various stereo cues, principally interaural time and amplitude differences at the ears. I would generally think that a deficiency in this area would be the result of a source problem messing up these differences. For example a poor stereo cartridge would have minimal channel separation and give a constricted left-right image. A system with phase anomalies would also mess up imaging in various ways.

 I am wondering whether the soundstage issue you describe is possibly a bass issue, since in my listening experience phones with a midbass bump, such as Sigmas can create a sense of soundstage even for a monaural source for which there is no stereo image?

 Or is it possible that supra-aurals in general have a soundstage problem?


----------



## spritzer

The soundstage difference stems from the stronger glue used to hold the drivers to the baffle. The difference isn't huge by any means but the better defined images coming from more controlled drivers help. Structural integrity is a large factor in designing great transducers.


----------



## audiod

Today I robbed my Gamma Pro’s of their drivers and 5 pin ribbon cable and installed them into my SR-XIII turning them into Pro’s. It’s a tricky procedure getting the drivers out of the Gamma’s without damaging the dust shield. I used the stock SR-X strain relief and tubing on the ear cup. They look like they came from the factory that way. I have included some pix. My first reaction was they are very efficient, dynamic & clean (I was using my SRM-T1w). I will be doing some comparisons with my other stock SR-XIII. More later….


----------



## spacemanspliff

Cool. GJ man.

 My all Sony old school TA-N110 amp and 1000ESD Pre + Srd 7 and Lambda w/ bass mod = strong dynamics and musicality with great slam and is not at all fatiguing.

 Getiing a Trends Audio usb to coax converter for my transport helper lol. I am running optical now off the mobo. I think going usb to coax to dac will sound fuller W/ more detail. The old Sony dac is pretty good.


----------



## AudioCats

Just bought the 220v SRM-1 on ebay, guess my offer was a little higher than the others'.......

 Looks like I will be making a super 110-> 220v power box pretty soon (have a few 150~200W toroid transformer laying around, might as well use them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Does anybody have any tips on power conditioning/power cabling for the stax amps?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought the 220v SRM-1 on ebay, guess my offer was a little higher than the others'.......

 Looks like I will be making a super 110-> 220v power box pretty soon (have a few 150~200W toroid transformer laying around, might as well use them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Does anybody have any tips on power conditioning/power cabling for the stax amps?_

 

My spare SRM-1 Mk2 Pro just arrived today, for 117v, and it is adaptable to other voltages like the first one I got. Now I don't have to use an SRD-X with Dark voice 336i headphone out for STAX in my basement rig. Yipee!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The soundstage difference stems from the stronger glue used to hold the drivers to the baffle. The difference isn't huge by any means but the better defined images coming from more controlled drivers help. Structural integrity is a large factor in designing great transducers._

 

I guess I can see how that mught improve the soundstage as well as other sonic attributes.


----------



## Tachikoma

The old stax glue on the SR-X was already very, very strong. Almost strong enough to completely dissuade me from attempting any driver exchanges with the SR-X >_> What kind of glue should I use to replace the old stax one if I do try something like that?

 I think the way the drivers are bound to the SR-5 and gamma pro is limiting its potential somewhat, maybe I'll try installing clamps on them someday.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I robbed my Gamma Pro’s of their drivers and 5 pin ribbon cable and installed them into my SR-XIII turning them into Pro’s. It’s a tricky procedure getting the drivers out of the Gamma’s without damaging the dust shield. I used the stock SR-X strain relief and tubing on the ear cup. They look like they came from the factory that way. I have included some pix. My first reaction was they are very efficient, dynamic & clean (I was using my SRM-T1w). I will be doing some comparisons with my other stock SR-XIII. More later….





_

 

It is very tough to remove the drivers but you do get better at it with the 10th set... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It looks great though. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought the 220v SRM-1 on ebay, guess my offer was a little higher than the others'.......

 Looks like I will be making a super 110-> 220v power box pretty soon (have a few 150~200W toroid transformer laying around, might as well use them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Does anybody have any tips on power conditioning/power cabling for the stax amps?_

 

You could also just follow my instructions that were posted a little earlier in the thread on how to convert the amp over to 117v. It might be missing the picture but I can send you a link. 

 As to power conditioning just plug the amp straight into a wall or a high quality extension cord. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I can see how that mught improve the soundstage as well as other sonic attributes._

 

It fits the theory and the results of my various experiments. When the planar drivers have a good surface to push against then they can reach their full potential. This is really the cornerstone of the Omega line...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The old stax glue on the SR-X was already very, very strong. Almost strong enough to completely dissuade me from attempting any driver exchanges with the SR-X >_> What kind of glue should I use to replace the old stax one if I do try something like that?

 I think the way the drivers are bound to the SR-5 and gamma pro is limiting its potential somewhat, maybe I'll try installing clamps on them someday._

 

The original Stax glue is strong but you can do better. The glue you should look out for is in A4 sheets and used for crafts and stuff like that. I've tried a few different versions that I found locally and have no idea who makes it. If you want to be extreme you could use that 3m glue that is used to glue windows in place...


----------



## facelvega

Has anyone done direct sonic comparisons of the normal and s/b SRD boxes? I've been listening to my SRD-7 and SRD-7sb, trying to decide which to keep and which to sell with my SR-5, and it seems to me that they have a very different sound from one another. The wall-power model is stronger, with more punch in the bass and more mids-focused, while the self-biasing box is a little thinner but has an extra bit of sparkle up top and is maybe a little flatter overall. I think that in this way it sounds more like a Stax amp than like an SRD box. With my testing, I was surprised to find that I lean towards the s/b box, and have listed the normal one in my sale thread.

 Is this really likely a difference between the two SRD types, or possibly just a question of age of the gear and cleanness of contacts? My SRD-7 is older than my 7sb.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone done direct sonic comparisons of the normal and s/b SRD boxes? I've been listening to my SRD-7 and SRD-7sb, trying to decide which to keep and which to sell with my SR-5, and it seems to me that they have a very different sound from one another. The wall-power model is stronger, with more punch in the bass and more mids-focused, while the self-biasing box is a little thinner but has an extra bit of sparkle up top and is maybe a little flatter overall. I think that in this way it sounds more like a Stax amp than like an SRD box. With my testing, I was surprised to find that I lean towards the s/b box, and have listed the normal one in my sale thread.

 Is this really likely a difference between the two SRD types, or possibly just a question of age of the gear and cleanness of contacts? My SRD-7 is older than my 7sb._

 

I would much rather look at the age difference then the technology. There were many changes to the SRD-7 over the years and almost no two of mine have been identical.


----------



## bjarnetv

i have some non stax related questions, but since they are electrostats i figured i could ask in this thread.

 my floats keep giving me tiny electric "shocks" when i touch other electric equipment, like my macbook, and it turns out the ps2 isn´t grounded.
 since i´m no elecronics expert i figured i could ask you if there were any easy way to ground it.

 i was also wondering if there were any mods to be done to the headphone itself, since there are a lot of empty space, and the drivers are just resting on some foam.


----------



## ericj

Hey, with all this talk of repotting drivers in to different frames, I felt it couldn't hurt to ask. 

 Anybody got an empty set of earcups that i could drop some SR-3 drivers into? Even if the headband is toast, I can probably sort that out.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I'll take some pics of my SRD-7. It is an oldie but well maintained.

 Going to direct wire the transformers and maybe rewire the power to add a ground.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone done direct sonic comparisons of the normal and s/b SRD boxes? I've been listening to my SRD-7 and SRD-7sb, trying to decide which to keep and which to sell with my SR-5, and it seems to me that they have a very different sound from one another. The wall-power model is stronger, with more punch in the bass and more mids-focused, while the self-biasing box is a little thinner but has an extra bit of sparkle up top and is maybe a little flatter overall. I think that in this way it sounds more like a Stax amp than like an SRD box. With my testing, I was surprised to find that I lean towards the s/b box, and have listed the normal one in my sale thread.

 Is this really likely a difference between the two SRD types, or possibly just a question of age of the gear and cleanness of contacts? My SRD-7 is older than my 7sb._

 

I can remember a while back, when I put a mains-biased SRD-7 in place of an (older, chrome-fronted) SRD-6SB, fully expecting the SRD-7 to be better (newer, mains bias, thicker cable, etc.). I was shocked to discover that, if anything, the SRD-6 was slightly better sounding.

 When I posted my findings here (maybe it was on the 'old' Stax thread?), the suggestion was made that perhaps mains ripple was adversely affecting the SRD-7. The advantage for me of the mains bias model, though, is that it will be easier to rewire the innards and cut out the speaker switch, etc. (as per other posts around here about now).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, with all this talk of repotting drivers in to different frames, I felt it couldn't hurt to ask. 

 Anybody got an empty set of earcups that i could drop some SR-3 drivers into? Even if the headband is toast, I can probably sort that out._

 

I have a set of SR-5's that have some channel imbalance and the headband is lacking all the markings as well adjustment screws. You can have them if you want.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an Alpha Pro for you if you want... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry for the late reply, but I have been too busy enjoying my new "portable rig" the last three days.
Picture





 Oh really!?
 But dissecting a rare Alpha Pro, just to get the drivers, don't seem right. Or are they broken or something?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a set of SR-5's that have some channel imbalance and the headband is lacking all the markings as well adjustment screws. You can have them if you want._

 

The SR-5 and SR-X/MK3 share the same drivers, right?
 One driver in my spare SR-X/MK3 pair are starting to fade away. Perhaps one of your SR-5 drivers match one of mine?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a set of SR-5's that have some channel imbalance and the headband is lacking all the markings as well adjustment screws. You can have them if you want._

 

That could work. Our friend in Norway can have the drivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for the late reply, but I have been too busy enjoying my new "portable rig" the last three days.
Picture





 Oh really!?
 But dissecting a rare Alpha Pro, just to get the drivers, don't seem right. Or are they broken or something?_

 

I hope you aren't riding that in the snow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well I've dissected an even rarer Alpha Pro Excellent for the drivers... The phones are fine in pretty good shape except the headband is messed up like with every other Gamma/Alpha. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 and SR-X/MK3 share the same drivers, right?
 One driver in my spare SR-X/MK3 pair are starting to fade away. Perhaps one of your SR-5 drivers match one of mine?_

 

The SR-5 drivers are similar but not the same. It's the SR-5*N* that uses the same drivers. I do have a spare set of drivers and a 6 pin ribbon cable installed in a Alpha housing which I can give you a good deal on.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you aren't riding that in the snow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I might be crazy, but not that crazy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The picture were taken 10 days ago, and the snow are all gone now. Only 4-8 degrees though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I've dissected an even rarer Alpha Pro Excellent for the drivers... The phones are fine in pretty good shape except the headband is messed up like with every other Gamma/Alpha._

 

PM on the way.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 drivers are similar but not the same. It's the SR-5*N* that uses the same drivers. I do have a spare set of drivers and a 6 pin ribbon cable installed in a Alpha housing which I can give you a good deal on._

 

Ok, I see.
 I am just looking for a budget fix. Or else I will just replace the drivers with some Pro ones..

 So I pass!


----------



## ueyteuor

so i bought spritzer's srm212 to power my lambda pros, since i have been ampless for a while lately, and have no way of listening to my lambda pros...

 i was looking for an srm-1/mkII but its taking too long to find one. my question is, is it worth upgrading in the future to an srm-1/mkII, or would i be fine and happy with an srm212? what does the srm-1/mkII do so differently to the sound?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might be crazy, but not that crazy. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The picture were taken 10 days ago, and the snow are all gone now. Only 4-8 degrees though..._

 

That's good to know. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PM on the way._

 

I'll reply as soon as I'm done here...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so i bought spritzer's srm212 to power my lambda pros, since i have been ampless for a while lately, and have no way of listening to my lambda pros...

 i was looking for an srm-1/mkII but its taking too long to find one. my question is, is it worth upgrading in the future to an srm-1/mkII, or would i be fine and happy with an srm212? what does the srm-1/mkII do so differently to the sound?_

 

The circuit is similar but it's the age old story of more power. The 212 draws 4W while the SRM-1 draws about 30W. While most of it is dissipated as heat some is used to control the diaphragms better. 

 Btw. The amp is on its way.


----------



## ericj

The diameter looked suspiciously close, so i tried. 

 Turns out you can put AKG K240 style vinyl pads on a Superex PEP-71 headset. Which wualta assures me is really a PEP-79, even though the label says PEP-71. 

 So, you can put new pads on your superexes. you know, if for some reason you wanted to.

 I used the set from my K340, which are a bit stretched out in the collar, and they fit less loosely than they do on a K240 - so brand new K240 pads should fit quite snugly.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The diameter looked suspiciously close, so i tried. 

 Turns out you can put AKG K240 style vinyl pads on a Superex PEP-71 headset. Which wualta assures me is really a PEP-79, even though the label says PEP-71. 

 So, you can put new pads on your superexes. you know, if for some reason you wanted to._

 

Good to know. The newer Suprex models would also be just fine with SR-X earpads given the design similarities.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ ..a Superex PEP-71 headset. Which wualta assures me is really a PEP-79, even though the label says PEP-71._

 

  I see I was making myself perfectly obscure again. The headphone was the same for all models until the mid-'70s. The original model, the PEP-77 _ensemble_ consisted of the 71 headphone and the 77 twin-jack AC bias stepup and sold together as the 77C (ie, the box sitting on the shelf at the store said PEP-77C). It came first, then the 79, the difference being only the transformer box. Both kits/ensembles/whuteva used the PEP-71 headphone. It's just as Spritzer said: this model name confusion shows a definite Stax influence.


----------



## ueyteuor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The circuit is similar but it's the age old story of more power. The 212 draws 4W while the SRM-1 draws about 30W. While most of it is dissipated as heat some is used to control the diaphragms better. 

 Btw. The amp is on its way._

 

so the sound quality is about the same, just a power difference (srm-1 easier to drive the lambda pros?) thanks!


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
 The circuit is similar but it's the age old story of more power. The 212 draws 4W while the SRM-1 draws about 30W. While most of it is dissipated as heat some is used to control the diaphragms better.

 Btw. The amp is on its way.
 so the sound quality is about the same, just a power difference (srm-1 easier to drive the lambda pros?) thanks! 
 

ehh I think that conclusion is a too steep...
 Bigger is better in this case I think (it is hard to describe the difference in sound though)


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ehh I think that conclusion is a too steep...
 Bigger is better in this case I think (it is hard to describe the difference in sound though)_

 

I agree: the SRM-1/Mk2 IS a step up from the SRM-212, BUT it's not as great a leap forward as I'd hoped for at the time when I made the upgrade. There's a definite similarity to these amps (and the SRM-313 for that matter) which belies the vast difference in appearance (between the SRM-212 and the bigger models).

 In answer to the original question: if you can pick up an SRM-1/Mk2 for £150/$300/€180 then go for it, but I fear prices are rising faster all the time...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so the sound quality is about the same, just a power difference (srm-1 easier to drive the lambda pros?) thanks!_

 

I heard SRM-313 (never heard 212) and found it to be inferior to SRM-1Mk2/Pro with SR-303 and SR-Lambda. I found SRM-1Mk2/Pro to be more neutral, dynamic and resolving than other newer model small amps. I heard a few, unfortunately I don't remember the exact model numbers. 

 The difference is not night and day, but as everything in audio the devil is in the details. I found the same small differences are between SRM-1 and SRM-717 (with SR-303), although I found SRM-1 to be more transparent to the source than any of the amps I heard. 

 I need to spend some critical listening time with Stax tube hybrid amps to form an opinion about them. Based on my observations I would say depending on what kind of listener you are the upgrade (or side-grade) to SRM-1 might be worth it or might not be an upgrade at all. If you want very transparent, detailed and dynamic amp it might be worth to step up the Stax lineup. SRM-T1 (based on what I read) or SRM-1 look to be the best (price/sound) vintage amps.


----------



## audiod

The SRM-1 mk2 Pro is so good that, in a pinch, it did a good job driving my O2's. That's a pretty good endorsement.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I heard SRM-313 (never heard 212) and found it to be inferior to SRM-1Mk2/Pro with SR-303 and SR-Lambda. I found SRM-1Mk2/Pro to be more neutral, dynamic and resolving than other newer model small amps. I heard a few, unfortunately I don't remember the exact model numbers. 

 The difference is not night and day, but as everything in audio the devil is in the details. I found the same small differences are between SRM-1 and SRM-717 (with SR-303), although I found SRM-1 to be more transparent to the source than any of the amps I heard._

 

I agree totally: the SRM-313 I bought (as part of the 3030 system) was inferior to the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, which is why it is now my secondary (office) system, with the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro powering some SR-404s in my main system.

 (Although I am surprised you don't think the SRM-717 isn't a bigger leap up: I'd assumed it would be clearly better than the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro -- I aspire to owning one, one day, when I get the inevitable SR-007s!)


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree totally: the SRM-313 I bought (as part of the 3030 system) was inferior to the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, which is why it is now my secondary (office) system, with the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro powering some SR-404s in my main system.

 (Although I am surprised you don't think the SRM-717 isn't a bigger leap up: I'd assumed it would be clearly better than the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro -- I aspire to owning one, one day, when I get the inevitable SR-007s!)_

 

It is a step up, just not a huge one when using SR-303. I guess 303 are not that power hungry and the differences as far as I remember from my short audition are an overall better control of the bass and better dynamics. Also sound signature is a bit different, IMHO 717 is not as transparent and has it's own character, as opposed to SRM-1's very neutral sound. I am sure for SR-007 the difference is much more noticeable.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference is not night and day, but as everything in audio the devil is in the details. I found the same small differences are between SRM-1 and SRM-717 (with SR-303), although I found SRM-1 to be more transparent to the source than any of the amps I heard. _

 

As much as I love the SRM-1 mk2 Pro the SRM-717 is a LOT better. Smoother and more musical top end, more liquid midrange, more open soundstage, more dynamic, tighter and deeper bass, better low level detail and ambiance retrieval. The 717 sounds very similar to the SRM-007t with more extended top and bottom. The perfect mate for the O2, O2II & ESP-950. My choice for most of the Lambda series would be the 007t.


----------



## ericj

I'm curious if we have a schematic for the SRD-6SB, I'd like to compare it to the Superex PEP-79 self-biased energizer. I suspect they're quite similar. 

 fwiw, with K240 pads, the PEP-71/79 beats the pants off the ESP-9.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As much as I love the SRM-1 mk2 Pro the SRM-717 is a LOT better. Smoother and more musical top end, more liquid midrange, more open soundstage, more dynamic, tighter and deeper bass, better low level detail and ambiance retrieval. The 717 sounds very similar to the SRM-007t with more extended top and bottom. The perfect mate for the O2, O2II & ESP-950. My choice for most of the Lambda series would be the 007t._

 

Are you comparing them with SR-007 or SR-303/404? I compared them with SR-303, although briefly, and difference was there and very tangible but not huge. Basically an over all improvement in many aspects, but with a specific sound signature a bit different from SRM-1, but if I had a chance to get 717 for a good price I would


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you comparing them with SR-007 or SR-303/404? I compared them with SR-303, although briefly, and difference was there and very tangible but not huge. Basically an over all improvement in many aspects, but with a specific sound signature a bit different from SRM-1, but if I had a chance to get 717 for a good price I would 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have done the comparison with most of the Lambda's (202, 303, 404, Lambda Nova Sig, Lambda Pro). The 717 (like most of the Stax amps) need a long warm-up.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As much as I love the SRM-1 mk2 Pro the SRM-717 is a LOT better. Smoother and more musical top end, more liquid midrange, more open soundstage, more dynamic, tighter and deeper bass, better low level detail and ambiance retrieval. The 717 sounds very similar to the SRM-007t with more extended top and bottom. The perfect mate for the O2, O2II & ESP-950. My choice for most of the Lambda series would be the 007t._

 

Ditto. The SRM-1 Mk2 is good and the P.P. is even better but the 717 is still the best Stax amp by a large margin. This is of course not counting the T-2 as there aren't any comparisons to something like the BH... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious if we have a schematic for the SRD-6SB, I'd like to compare it to the Superex PEP-79 self-biased energizer. I suspect they're quite similar. 

 fwiw, with K240 pads, the PEP-71/79 beats the pants off the ESP-9._

 

I'd have to look but I think I only have the regular SRD-6 schematic but I'm not sure.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto. The SRM-1 Mk2 is good and the P.P. is even better but the 717 is still the best Stax amp by a large margin. This is of course not counting the T-2 as there aren't any comparisons to something like the BH... _

 

All this talk is making my wait for custom GU50 Stax amp even more annoying. Oh well, I will not have my amp until at least October, if not longer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All this talk is making my wait for custom GU50 Stax amp even more annoying. Oh well, I will not have my amp until at least October, if not longer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The wait is horrible... I might have adapters to use the GU50 in the Blue Hawaii at some later date. It's a very cool tube and cheaper then dirt... I checked...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll reply as soon as I'm done here..._

 

Thanks Birgir.
 Looks like I soon will be enjoying an SR-X/MK3 Pro..


----------



## gimmish

At last, my GES has been completed. Now it just needs to be tested and observed. It should ship middle of next week. With any luck it might be here by next weekend. It's only been five weeks but it seems like an eternity. I have hooked my portable rig to my CDP(Modwright Sony scd777es) and I have learned that it is too revealing with anything less than O2s.The good thing that came from it is that I admited to myself that I can not stand using IEMs, I just don't like them in my ears.


----------



## Michgelsen

I picked up a SRM-T1 / SR-Λ Signature combo today that I found at a local auction site. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It sounds great and it's in superb condition. According to the seller the earpads are almost new and so is the amp, which he had shipped back to Stax England for new tubes. He told me that it was bought in 1998 here in the Netherlands. I have no reason whatsoever to question any of this, because everything is in absolutely perfect condition. The boxes and manuals are included.
 There's one minor thing though: I've planned to use the T1 with my HE60, but Alex has ran out of adapters... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Has anybody got one that you're willing to sell me?

 Anyway, I'm off listening again now! Early impressions immediately say there's somewhat more bass with these 'phones, but it also has a hollower sound to it. The overall sound signature is more soothing to the ear than the bright HE60, but I can't say yet which one I like better.






 <-- This one should be fixed at once!


----------



## bjarnetv

nobody with float experience?


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i have some non stax related questions, but since they are electrostats i figured i could ask in this thread.

 my floats keep giving me tiny electric "shocks" when i touch other electric equipment, like my macbook, and it turns out the ps2 isn´t grounded.
 since i´m no elecronics expert i figured i could ask you if there were any easy way to ground it.

 i was also wondering if there were any mods to be done to the headphone itself, since there are a lot of empty space, and the drivers are just resting on some foam.








_


----------



## Saltuk

Here is a story of impatience and stupidity;

 Today I bought a cheap 12V 1.3A battery(Rechargeable Sealed Lead-Acid Battery) from a shop to try with my 252A. I made sure the polarity was right (the amp is an Japan 100V) and plugged it. When I turn on the amp (that was the first mistake) .. there is no power , no red light.
 I realized that the fuse went dead so I opened the amp (for the first time) and it was indeed so. I also realized that the output of the battery(standby:13.4-13.8V, Cyclic use:14.6-15V) was too much for the fuse (125V 1.5A I believe). I remembered that once I read that the fuse on the 252A was too weak and the amp can handle much more than the fuse allows to pass through, so I(here comes the second and the biggest mistake) first reconnected the broken fuse's legs with a thin bare wire then tried the original PS .. redlight on , it works. And then connected the battery again.. small sparkles , and some smoke. And ofcourse now it doesnt work with the org. PS either.
 I am afraid I ruined my amplifier.
 There seems to be problems in five places. 
 1. The fuse , I can find a new one and replace it no problem.
 2. Rectifier diode(see pic), it is probably dead
 3. The copper line through the rectifier diodes feet , it somehow got cut(see pic)
 4-5. The two black things(see pic) one is chipped and the other one smoked when connected to the org. PS after the battery incident. 

 I am afraid I can'not describe the situation clearly but the pics might help. Do you think my amp is dead , or is there any chance?
 Regards,
 Saltuk.

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3451/83193448ij9.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5289/99534121cd2.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9260/33158829xm0.jpg


----------



## Downrange

It's hard to imagine all that happening unless you reversed the polarity. When I rigged my U.S. power supply for my 212, I double, and triple checked polarity with a multimeter. 

 At any rate, expensive lesson. NEVER, ever put a dead short across a fused circuit - that's why you pay .20 for the fuse! Best bite the bullet and send it back to Stax, it's got a blown diode, some damaged traces, and probably a couple of other parts that will have to be replaced.

 Sorry about that.


----------



## krmathis

Saltuk. I am 100% sure its dead. But not beyond repair...
 You will need to replace the broken components, and the damaged traces. Either at a local electronic repair shop, or by sending it back to Stax.

 Lesson learned!


----------



## spritzer

This is why there is a fuse there in the first place but no need to beat you up more about that. The polarity was obviously reversed as the amp will only draw as much current as it needs and I've hooded one up to a 10A supply with no issues. It can take a bit more then 12v but not much more but the battery should drop the output voltage under load.


----------



## Saltuk

Lesson Learned in deed.

 I believe there is not much damage to the hard to replace parts. 

 What I need is a new fuse + a new rectifier(D31) RM1Z silicon rectifier which I found here: RM1Z Specs Datasheet pdf specification available and on sale at AMS Inc. +
 a small trace reconstruct+ and finally those two unidentified things(Q31/32).
 I believe the rectifier converts AC to DC , when it stopped working the AC damaged the next two parts on its way(Q31/32).

 There are many things that looks exactly the same as those two on the board but each has different numbers on it .
 Q31/32 have different numbers on them but they both have 7F writings. The other black things that look like Q31/32 have 7J on them. As the 31 and 32 are burned/cracked it is almost impossible to read the numbers on them. I think I need a part list or a schematic of the board or can anyone Identify Q31 and Q32 ? Here is a picture:
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/628/21hn5.jpg


----------



## Saltuk

The full board before the wire replacement of the broken fuse
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/323/23uv5.jpg


----------



## Johnny Blue

Can't help you, Saltuk, but my heart goes out to you: I did something similar to you with my SRM-212 (reversing polarity, despite checking!) and wrote about my misadventures here. I was obviously luckier than you, though, because the 5 amp fuse wire I used to replace my blown fuse, didn't result in melt-down as yours did (but I only used the stock PS after my clumsiness).

 Hope you get it sorted before too long...


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks Johnny blue, you were not luckier bu wiser!

 I think I found what are those 2 things are (Q31/32) 2SK2961 Photo
 they are motor drive and DC-DC converters although they look excatly the same and the code on them are the same (K2961) the ones on my board are "7.F" but those on the link are "9D." any one knows what those stand for?


----------



## Saltuk

Ok I now found that the 7.F and 9D. are lot numbers. Will find some place to order those and see what will happen now, wish me luck!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Johnny blue, you were not luckier bu wiser!

 I think I found what are those 2 things are (Q31/32) 2SK2961 Photo
 they are motor drive and DC-DC converters although they look excatly the same and the code on them are the same (K2961) the ones on my board are "7.F" but those on the link are "9D." any one knows what those stand for?_

 

well, no, they are n-channel mosfets. small ones. You can buy replacements here:

2SK2961 Silicon N-Channel MOS Transistor (Toshiba)-The Electronic Goldmine

 "7F" and "9D" are probably batch codes or something.


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks for the link Ericj,

 But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks for the link Ericj,

 But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks for the link Ericj,

 But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)


----------



## Saltuk

I dont know what happened here (triple post?)


----------



## spacemanspliff

lol it happens.

 how does the srd-7 do if you completely replace the power cord? I was thinking of doing what Spritzer suggests and just wiring the speaker cables to the transformer and upgrading the power cable all with good copper.

 the background just needs to be blacker. sound detail is good overall but there is a smidge of blurr that needs cleaning up. could be the dac but man I don't know. Once I get my Trends USB to coax converter things should improve.


----------



## Downrange

It's not a wiring problem. The problem is in the transformers used to convert the low impedence speaker output to the high impedence headphone output needed by the Stax. The transformers "compress" the dynamics, rendering the music lifeless by suppressing detail and "sparkle" under many layers of wool blankets. There's no hope for this mode, as it's flawed electrically. Perhaps if you used very high quality transformers with much lower Q you might have a chance, but it's really a zero sum game. 
 If you'd like to think of it in the analogy of a sports car, one with a zippy motor, imagine having to run every race in sixth gear. That's what these transformer devices are doing to your detail.
 You can generate hefty voltage swings, but you cannot replace the detail in the swinging curve, as that becomes compressed.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how does the srd-7 do if you completely replace the power cord? I was thinking of doing what Spritzer suggests and just wiring the speaker cables to the transformer and upgrading the power cable all with good copper._

 

Even if you're the kinda guy who believes that power cables can improve things, the amount of power drawn through the srd-7 power cord is infinitessimally small. A tenth of a watt, iirc. 

 You could use cotton string soaked in salt water for the same performance. 

 hold on a second, I need to get my patent attorney on the phone for this "wetcables" idea . . . .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even if you're the kinda guy who believes that power cables can improve things, the amount of power drawn through the srd-7 power cord is infinitessimally small. A tenth of a watt, iirc. 

 You could use cotton string soaked in salt water for the same performance. 

 hold on a second, I need to get my patent attorney on the phone for this "wetcables" idea . . . ._

 

I'll license those cables from you!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Power cables do make a difference but often for the worse. Some do help filter out all the crap those switching PSU's are pushing back into the mains. Needless to say they aren't a good upgrade on the SRD's.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The transformers "compress" the dynamics, rendering the music lifeless by suppressing detail and "sparkle" under many layers of wool blankets. There's no hope for this mode, as it's flawed electrically._

 

*Shrug* My ears disagree...


----------



## zephyr_80

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Saltuk, but my heart goes out to you: I did something similar to you with my SRM-212 (reversing polarity, despite checking!)_

 

The reason for all the blown fuses when you use an external power supply is *surge current*--the sudden inrush of current when you first turn on the amp. The tiny transformer in the Stax wall-wart doesn't have this problem because it can't muster enough current to blow the fuse in the first fraction of a second. People assume they've hooked it up wrong and switch the polarity, then the real problem starts. Oh no! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The simple solution if you want to test another power source like a battery or high quality power supply is to use a 10 ohm resistor in series. The value of the resistor is not critical, just so it slows the inrush. Once you turn it on and the red LED comes on, you can then bypass the resistor. Switching to a slow-blow fuse solves the problem permanently, if you're willing to open the case and solder one in. I see Downrange touched on this issue earlier.

 BTW, the Stax wall-wart puts out a lot of ripple. I measured 1.1 volts (peak-to-peak) under load. That's pretty high. I think we can do better. Deep-cycle lead acid batteries work well. I also built a STEPS (from the DIY section) for this purpose. It's a worthwhile improvement to my ears.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Shrug* My ears disagree..._

 

As do mine....It can take some very judicious experimentation ,but when you hit it right the results can be astounding. IMO


----------



## Johnny Blue

As I've written here (many times!) before, my SRD-7 easily out-performs my SRM-212, SRM-313 and SRM-1/Mk2...

 ...when driven by my dedicated Naim NAC 32.5 & NAP 140 combo.


----------



## ferrstein

I also have great resluts with my SRD-7/SR-Lambda combo from my Creek 5350 SE integrated. Same goes for my SRD-7 Pero/Lambda Pro combination. 

 I think the transformers give a nice punchiness to the music, and I find them more fun to listen to than with my SRM1/MKII. 

 Having said that, I do think the SRM1/MKII is more detailed...


----------



## milkpowder

I recently purchased a pair of SR-Lambda Signature. [size=xx-small]*(hurray!)*[/size] I still haven't received it yet, but according to the description the original foam is still mostly intact. How does one prevent it from deteriorating?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently purchased a pair of SR-Lambda Signature. [size=xx-small]*(hurray!)*[/size] I still haven't received it yet, but according to the description the original foam is still mostly intact. How does one prevent it from deteriorating?_

 

Nice score!
 'spritzer' sure have (or had) some nice 'phones laying around..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently purchased a pair of SR-Lambda Signature. [size=xx-small]*(hurray!)*[/size] I still haven't received it yet, but according to the description the original foam is still mostly intact. How does one prevent it from deteriorating?_

 

There is nothing you can do that I know of except replacing the sheets with ones from a new set. It just dries up and turns to dust.


----------



## smeggy

Yep, my foams were completely dessicated and shed everywhere when I got mine. A quick brush out and forget it. I prefer the foam gone anyhow as it rubs my ears. Anyway, I'm also a transfo fan and enjoy the sound of all my Staxes with either the SRD-6 or 7. I found them great with my power amp and not lacking dynamics at all. I can't afford top 'stat amps and these are a great alternative to the cheaper Stax amps.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As I've written here (many times!) before, my SRD-7 easily out-performs my SRM-212, SRM-313 and SRM-1/Mk2...

 ...when driven by my dedicated Naim NAC 32.5 & NAP 140 combo._

 

Exactly. There is no limit to what kind of super-duper amp you use in front of the SRD-7.

 Ever since I dropped in some Mundorf silver/oil caps in my Almarro, I can't pick my jaw off the floor (with my 'stat on)...


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downrange* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not a wiring problem. The problem is in the transformers used to convert the low impedence speaker output to the high impedence headphone output needed by the Stax. The transformers "compress" the dynamics, rendering the music lifeless by suppressing detail and "sparkle" under many layers of wool blankets. There's no hope for this mode, as it's flawed electrically. 
 ._

 

There's no doubt about it that a top notch direct drive amp or even the better Stax amps are technically superior, but "technically superior" doesn't always translate into "sounds better" and from my point of view you are exaggerating anyway.Maybe your SRD was badly corroded?

 You are losing a bit in the detail department but even with a bit less detail the electrostats are at least on par or better than the best dynamic headphones and what you gain is (perceived) punch, and that's quite nice for a lot of genres.

 Every once in a while I connect my Electrostats to an SRM-313 I have lying around here, always with the same result.My SRD Mk II/speaker amp combo is sooo much better than the SRM-313.
 I should sell the crappy SRM-313 for lots of $$$ to a member of team "all amps sound the same".Believe it or not they are ubiquitous here in Germany.

 Even if I get (again) a better direct drive amp for my electrostats I'll probably keep a SRD.It's an versatile and alternative way of driving electrostats with it's own merits.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Just wanted to make an update on the SR-001 unit I had with cable issues. Audiocubes will honor the Stax warranty in Japan as long as you're willing to send it back to their warehouse in Osaka. It's an inconvenience but oh well that's the price I pay for going grey market.


----------



## JadeEast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly. There is no limit to what kind of super-duper amp you use in front of the SRD-7.

 Ever since I dropped in some Mundorf silver/oil caps in my Almarro, I can't pick my jaw off the floor (with my 'stat on)..._

 

I'm sure that this question has been asked before, but a search didn't really make it very clear.

 How much juice does the SRD-7 or other transformers require to work well?
 (how low can you go?)


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JadeEast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sure that this question has been asked before, but a search didn't really make it very clear.

 How much juice does the SRD-7 or other transformers require to work well?
 (how low can you go?)_

 

10-20 watts should be all you need.


----------



## westmalle

Hi everybody,

 I would like to know if somebody compared the Beyerdynamic DT990pro with the Stax RS-2050II Basic SystemII. 
 I would like to buy it, but only if it is a real improvement.


----------



## kpeezy

I can compare to the Stax SR-001 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 HELLO MIDRANGE! SR-001 is much better than the DT990pro IMO. Once I get an amp, I can compare my Lambda Pros to the DT990s (friend owns dt990).

 Also, that brief thought of mine comparing the SR-001 and the DT990 alone is based solely on SQ. SR-001s were incredibly uncomfortable. My Lambdas are very comfy, I just can't listen to them yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Kyle

 Edit: To be honest, I would take almost any headphone I've ever had over the DT990s. I really don't like them so keep that in mind


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_10-20 watts should be all you need._

 

I noticed a definite improvement going from an 18wpc Sherwood S-7100 to a 32wpc S-7200, but I think that anything more than this would be wasted, as I really don't need much of the 32 Watts to drive any of my stats. That said, I've heard an SR-5 sound quite respectably good out of a first series T-amp with only 6wpc into 8 Ohms. In other words, for a Stax transformer, the signal quality and character will have much more impact on SQ than increased maximum output.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *westmalle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi everybody,

 I would like to know if somebody compared the Beyerdynamic DT990pro with the Stax RS-2050II Basic SystemII. 
 I would like to buy it, but only if it is a real improvement._

 

I have both systems and can attest that the 2050II will give you a totally different take on what you are hearing with the 990pro. The amount of detail from the Stax is incredible while remaining very musical and lifelike. You will get all of the midrange that you are missing with the 990 pro.

 I find the 2050II to be the best value in the Stax line. While I like my 4040II system a bit more, it is amazing how close the 2050II is considering it's almost 1/3 the cost of the 4040II. This reinforces the fact that high-end audio is a lesson on the law of diminishing returns. That said, I am contemplating the purchase of an SR-007MkII right now!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed a definite improvement going from an 18wpc Sherwood S-7100 to a 32wpc S-7200, but I think that anything more than this would be wasted, as I really don't need much of the 32 Watts to drive any of my stats._

 

It's really not the watts but the quality of them. I have used VAC 30/30MkIII-S (superb with Lambdas), Symphonic Line RG-7 (not that good) and my tiny custom 20W n-channel hybrid class A amp (great match) with SRD-6 and liked the lower powered amps much better than huge SS monster amps. It's the amps character and quality of amplification that matters. I also heard a 3.5 Watt 2A3 amp with great results, so good 10-20 watt class A amp will be perfect.


----------



## westmalle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have both systems and can attest that the 2050II will give you a totally different take on what you are hearing with the 990pro. The amount of detail from the Stax is incredible while remaining very musical and lifelike. You will get all of the midrange that you are missing with the 990 pro.

 I find the 2050II to be the best value in the Stax line. While I like my 4040II system a bit more, it is amazing how close the 2050II is considering it's almost 1/3 the cost of the 4040II. This reinforces the fact that high-end audio is a lesson on the law of diminishing returns. That said, I am contemplating the purchase of an SR-007MkII right now!_

 

Thank you very much Wilcox for helping me on this issue.
 I really like my Beyerdynamic DT990pro a lot. But I am searching for something better. I am very curious for the Stax 2050II. I placed an order today. I will use it for making recordings of classical music, mostly chamber music. Thanks for pointing out that the 2050 is a good cost-effective choice, the 4040II or the SR-007MkII are too expensive for my budget.
 I use a Soundfield microphone and a Korg MR-1000 DSD recorder.
 Of course a full range Quad electrostatic speaker would be ideal, but that is something a lot of people dream of...


----------



## ironbut

I noticed some pretty nice comments on a EA-1 that was at the NY meet a few weeks ago. I hadn't really thought about it in a while ( I was turned off by the problems that a poster was having with his EA-4 after endless waiting for it) but I thought I'd drop them a line to see what the wait time was like. Here's the message I got;


 Thank you for your interest and questions.

 My new web site will feature the EA-8- attached picture and tube pictorial.

 This will be my only electrostatic headphone amplifier- horizontal sweep
 tubes for the output, I use them in all of my power amplifier and now in my
 electrostatic. They are superior to audio tubes as they can handle 6,000
 volts on the plates, pass lots of current and have lower 2nd and forth
 harmonics. They are triode connected, the input and differential circuits
 are all triode with additional tube regulation in the power supplies, no
 electrolytic capacitors in the signal path with all the features of my EA-4.

 This will sell for $1899.00, please note that it comes with two Stax outputs
 only. The one pictured has additional Sennheiser HE 60/70, 90 and a Koss
 output- they were supplied by the customer and I can add addition jacks but
 ask that the customer send them to me.

 Since my web site will probably be another week or so I could build one for
 $1750.00. Build times are now three weeks on average with committed orders.
 Let me know your thoughts and if interested probably a phone conversation
 would be a good idea- let me know a good time and day that works for you.

 Best regards,

 Peter

 And here's the attached picture;





[/url][/IMG]


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed a definite improvement going from an 18wpc Sherwood S-7100 to a 32wpc S-7200, but I think that anything more than this would be wasted, as I really don't need much of the 32 Watts to drive any of my stats. That said, I've heard an SR-5 sound quite respectably good out of a first series T-amp with only 6wpc into 8 Ohms. In other words, for a Stax transformer, the signal quality and character will have much more impact on SQ than increased maximum output._

 

Comparing watts to watts is pretty meaningless anyway, unless you're sure that both manufacturers are calculating it the same way. 

 My Rotel RA-820bx drives the SRD-7 just fine rated at 25wpc into 8 ohms. 

 The manual gives me a chuckle though, as it goes on to list WPC ratings into 4 ohms, and by DIN standards, and finally gives a 125wpc PMPO rating - "peak music power" generally meaning "a 2 milisecond transient every 2 seconds"


----------



## spritzer

I seriously doubt that the McAlister amp is worth 1k$ let alone nearly 2k$ with all the trouble people are having with his products.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I seriously doubt that the McAlister amp is worth 1k$ let alone nearly 2k$ with all the trouble people are having with his products._

 

Much as I understand where spritzer is coming from on this, my own EA-4 was previously used at multiple meets across the US before the trip out to Australia and continues to perform faultlessly. Yes, the build quality is less than ideal, both in this model and the EA-6 that a HeadFi-er ended up returning to Peter. And the image seems to show Peter has at least cleaned up the externals to a cleaner better build and resulting look. The real question will be how the EA-8 performs, hopefully reflecting similar build quality improvements under the hood. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If it does the job, then it's a worthwhile step in the right direction for us potential customers. And an indication the builder has responded to the critical feedback.

 If not, then it would probably lead to a complete lack of trust in further products (which HeadFi-ers that have been around longer than I may already be at).

 Spritzer is right about the cost, though. Considering the comparative cost of the well proven Woo GES (based on a proven Kevin Gilmour design), I'd be wanting a free trial period or a 30 Day return policy or the like as it is a substantial investment for a new product in an increasingly competitive marketplace (remember the RSA electrostatic headphone amp might also enter this mix sometime in the future as well!)


----------



## spritzer

So how about popping the hood and showing us the internals of the EA-4? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Comments such as the "...They are triode connected, the input and differential circuits are all triode with additional tube regulation in the power supplies, no
 electrolytic capacitors in the signal path with all the features of my EA-4" tell us nothing that isn't a standard in the up coming Little Dot amp. Even finding electrolytic caps to put in the signal path might be hard given the sizes used in most electrostatic amps.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how about popping the hood and showing us the internals of the EA-4? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Comments such as the "...They are triode connected, the input and differential circuits are all triode with additional tube regulation in the power supplies, no
 electrolytic capacitors in the signal path with all the features of my EA-4" tell us nothing that isn't a standard in the up coming Little Dot amp. Even finding electrolytic caps to put in the signal path might be hard given the sizes used in most electrostatic amps._

 

I agree the description gives you nothing unique or defined. Internal pics would be good, particularly considering previous negative experiences some have had.

 I've decided not to open mine up because 'if it ain't broke...' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And, in all seriousness, as a fully functioning unit, it does do a pretty good job. Like with my GES, though, I'd like to tuberoll first before considering any other 'upgrade/mod' options.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I would like to know if somebody compared the Beyerdynamic DT990pro with the Stax RS-2050II Basic SystemII.
 I would like to buy it, but only if it is a real improvement. 
 

It is a real improvement (I own similar headphones)
 a lot of the things that are likable with the DT990 (and I DO like the DT990) are the same with the Stax only better. I sometimes listen to the Beyer straight after having listened to a Stax and every time the Beyer leaves my head after a short period with me making a painful face..

  Quote:


 I really like my Beyerdynamic DT990pro a lot. But I am searching for something better. I am very curious for the Stax 2050II. I placed an order today. I will use it for making recordings of classical music, mostly chamber music. Thanks for pointing out that the 2050 is a good cost-effective choice, the 4040II or the SR-007MkII are too expensive for my budget. 
 

You won't regret it; especially with you choice of music it is great
 Chamber music is the kind of music that benefits the most of detailed representation of the Stax headphones I think.


----------



## westmalle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is a real improvement (I own similar headphones)
 a lot of the things that are likable with the DT990 (and I DO like the DT990) are the same with the Stax only better. I sometimes listen to the Beyer straight after having listened to a Stax and every time the Beyer leaves my head after a short period with me making a painful face..



 You won't regret it; especially with you choice of music it is great
 Chamber music is the kind of music that benefits the most of detailed representation of the Stax headphones I think._

 

Nice to hear! This is exactly what I want from a headphone: perfection for chamber music. I still think the Beyer DT990 is very good. Well I haven't heard the Stax yet.
 Here is what I record : 

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...-recording.m4a

 I heard the music on hybrid Electrostatic speakers yesterday, and it was quite a lot better than the DT990.


 BTW: where did you buy your Stax? I leave in Flanders, but I saw the distributor is in The Netherlands?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree the description gives you nothing unique or defined. Internal pics would be good, particularly considering previous negative experiences some have had.

 I've decided not to open mine up because 'if it ain't broke...' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And, in all seriousness, as a fully functioning unit, it does do a pretty good job. Like with my GES, though, I'd like to tuberoll first before considering any other 'upgrade/mod' options._

 

Wuss... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I wished that I had learned the "if it ain't broke..." when I was younger. My life would have been so much better... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you want to open it then it looks like amp is built on the top panels so you can remove the bottom panel with no worries and the whole circuit will be in plain sight.


----------



## pabbi1

Were that I had left the bottom plate on the EA-6... but, it made no difference in the sound. 

 Oh, and it would take more than 30 days to _receive_ the amp once it is 'shipped'. I hate the USPS - Canada Post collaboration, well, and Canadian Customs <sigh>.

 Chalk that all up to lesson learned.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Nice to hear! This is exactly what I want from a headphone: perfection for chamber music. I still think the Beyer DT990 is very good. Well I haven't heard the Stax yet.
 Here is what I record :

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...-recording.m4a 
 

Nice recording I did not recognize from who "dieser Lieder sind"

  Quote:


 BTW: where did you buy your Stax? I leave in Flanders, but I saw the distributor is in The Netherlands? 
 

I is hard to find a shop which has more than one set on display
 Get a grey market pair from japan; Buying from an European dealer will cost you almost double or buy secondhand.
 (btw. I will have a SR-313 and a Lambda SR-303 for sale soon
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## zephyr_80

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *westmalle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice to hear! This is exactly what I want from a headphone: perfection for chamber music. I still think the Beyer DT990 is very good. Well I haven't heard the Stax yet.
 Here is what I record : 

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...-recording.m4a_

 

Thanks for the sound sample westmalle. It sounds superb on my SR-404/SRM-007t. I too would like to know composer/title of the piece.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get a grey market pair from japan; Buying from an European dealer will cost you almost double or buy *secondhand*._

 

I second the idea of considering a used pair. My Lambda Signatures that I've had for 17 years manage to have a midrange that's even more silky smooth and transparent than the current 404. That would leave a little more in your budget for one of the nice valve amps, such as an SRM-T1 or current SRM-006. If all the model numbers are confusing, here is a Wikipedia page that sorts it all out.


----------



## pdennis

Thought I'd drop a quick note:

 I preordered the Nuforce Icon, hoping to simplify my computer-based SR-X/SRD-7 setup. If the sound is good, it seems like this could be a handy solution for use with the Stax transformer boxes, so I'll pass along the results in a few weeks.

 Still trying to figure out how I'm going to deal with the funky speaker cables, though. Maybe just cut the plugs off and solder them directly inside the box. My SRD-7 doesn't have the stock cables anyway.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thought I'd drop a quick note:

 I preordered the Nuforce Icon, hoping to simplify my computer-based SR-X/SRD-7 setup. If the sound is good, it seems like this could be a handy solution for use with the Stax transformer boxes, so I'll pass along the results in a few weeks.

 Still trying to figure out how I'm going to deal with the funky speaker cables, though. Maybe just cut the plugs off and solder them directly inside the box. My SRD-7 doesn't have the stock cables anyway._

 

I'll be testing a Travagans Red and Green soon, with speaker outputs into my SRD-7 soon - driving SR-5N Gold and SR-Lambda. 

 "Red" has analog input and headphone amp/speaker amp, "Green" has only USB input with the same outputs, but it also includes optical and coax out so you can get the computer's sound into another DAC and then on into the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.

 Should be interesting. Too bad I sold my SRD-6 with gold banana plugs last month.


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll be testing a Travagans Red and Green soon, with speaker outputs into my SRD-7 soon - driving SR-5N Gold and SR-Lambda. 

 "Red" has analog input and headphone amp/speaker amp, "Green" has only USB input with the same outputs, but it also includes optical and coax out so you can get the computer's sound into another DAC and then on into the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.

 Should be interesting. Too bad I sold my SRD-6 with gold banana plugs last month._

 

Wow, an almost identical feature set to the Nuforce. I look forward to your impressions.


----------



## westmalle

It is a song called "Das Veilchen" KV 476of W.A. Mozart on text of Johann Wolgang Goethe.


----------



## krmathis

Well, my SR-X/MK3 Pro have just arrived. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 More correctly SR-Alpha Pro drivers mounted in the SR-X/MK3 housing, and cable modified to Pro bias.



 

 



 Thanks Birgir!


----------



## jessica_fae

I figured it was time I posted here since I have been a very long time Stax owner/fan. I bought a Stax Lamdba / SRD7sb combo back in 1985. These headphones have so fundamentally shaped my perception of recorded music. A few years ago I picked up a SRM1mk2Pro which was a great choice. I have listened to so much audio equipment, but I seem to always come back to the Stax. I also have Acustat 1+1 electrostatic loudspeakers (8feet tall, 1foot wide pillars) as part of my main system.

 I live in Japan now so I have been really tempted to get some newer Stax equipment, but I've been reading here about different peoples opinions. I was surprised (but agree) with the comments that electronics make more difference than the difference between the 202/303/404. I was also happy to read that the SRM1mk2 is very similar (but with better parts) than the SRM323. It seems that the OmegaII is universally wonderful, but different from the Lambda/202/303/404 presentation and some people still prefer the Lambda presentation. But no one seems to disagree with the brilliance of the OmegaII. I still might get something, but I think I might have found my nirvana.

 One thing I found with the Lamdba (mine are low bias, not Pro bias) is that just when I think I have hit the limit and that I need to get something new, I tweak something in the signal path and the lamdbas show they were not the limiting factor.

 Right now my signal path is 
 Toshiba HD-XF2 (HD-DVD player as transport)
 California Audio Labs Sigma DAC (tube output stage)
 Balanced Audio Technology VK20 preamp
 SRM1-mk2Pro
 Lamdba

 I have found that the SRM1 responds really well to being treated as a power amp. I set the "volume pots" to about 75% and let my BAT VK20 do the rest. The difference between DAC->SRM1 and DAC->VK20 Preamp->SRM1 is truely profound. I have had other power amps with simple potentiometer "Preamp" sections that also worked much better with a high quality preamp. And setting the SRM1 volume at different levels and using more/less preamp changes the sound. I just played until I found something I liked.

 And I have to say that jPop sounds absolutely amazing on Stax. Brings shivers up my spine at times. If anyone here has not experienced jPop I would highly recommend Ayumi Hamasaki, Utada Hikaru, or BoA (especially all of their recent Albums Boa-"Made In Twenties" BoA-"The Face" Ayumi-"Guilty" Hikki-"Heart Station" ).

 best Jessica


----------



## derekbmn

Thank you for the nice read. Yes a GOOD active preamp ahead of the STAX amps really does/can make a HUGE improvement. I have been trying to get people to try it for quit some time. The results have been mixed ,but mostly positive with the quality of the preamp playing a huge factor. Again thanks!


----------



## gimmish

My new maxxed out GES arrived on friday afternoon. Jack was great and got it to me overnight. After almost 48 hours of burn in time I can say, really nice amp! After all of these years I should know better but of course I just had to listen after about an hour of warm up time. Of course I got all stressed about the initial harsh sound but over the last 2 days I have heard it get better and better. It is everything I had hoped for, open,detailed and sweet. The soundstage is continuing to expand. I did immediately see the need for better 12ax7 tubes. It came with new russian tubes. I have read that this amp design is not as sensitive to tube rolling as most tubed equipment so I want to start with a reasonably priced upgrade. I am thinking of nos Sylvania 12ax7wa, they are about $50 each and hear that they are detailed with good soundstage.Do any other GES owners have suggestions? 
 I agree about using a good preamp in front of the Stax amps I used a ARC LS7 with siemans 6922 tubes in front of my SRM-T1 and my O2 sounded great. In fact I even used my preamp to confirm my theory about the GES tubes, It did muddy up the sound but the soundstage was improved.


----------



## derekbmn

Not a GES owner ,but if you want some great 12ax7s that still go for sane prices then look for some Matsu****as. Mullard supplied the tooling for them. They are VERY good sounding tubes for the money.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, my SR-X/MK3 Pro have just arrived. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 More correctly SR-Alpha Pro drivers mounted in the SR-X/MK3 housing, and cable modified to Pro bias._

 

Eagerly awaiting your listening impressions, Kai.


----------



## smeggy

These are what my drivers are going in


----------



## blessingx

Just joined Team Stax/STAX. After a week with a SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo I've already ordered it and two other phones. In all the years I've been in this hobby my electrostatic time has been very limited and I don't want to sound like a zealot now with it being so fresh. I will say hearing the Lambdas took me back to my early steps of this hobby - my first Grado and my first good Ety seal (what years ago used to be called "The poor mans STAX"). They felt like gigantic jumps in SQ. Since then gear choices have been usually based on practical considerations or more minor performance gains - better separation here, tighter bass, less grainy vocals, etc. The Lambdas made me giddy all over again. It's been a long time since I scrambled to hear old music again.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just joined Team Stax/STAX. After a week with a SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo I've already ordered it and two other phones. In all the years I've been in this hobby my electrostatic time has been very limited and I don't want to sound like a zealot now with it being so fresh. I will say hearing the Lambdas took me back to my early steps of this hobby - my first Grado and my first good Ety seal (what years ago used to be called "The poor mans STAX"). They felt like gigantic jumps in SQ. Since then gear choices have been usually based on practical considerations or more minor performance gains - better separation here, tighter bass, less grainy vocals, etc. The Lambdas made me giddy all over again. It's been a long time since I scrambled to hear old music again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Welcome! I joined Team Stax almost exactly one year 5 months ago and have never looked back ever since.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They're near unbeatable for classical music and the Lambda Professional is no exception.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are what my drivers are going in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

nice, so those are the drivers from the Gamma Pro?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_nice, so those are the drivers from the Gamma Pro?_

 

Yup. I don't know what it's designation will be as it doesn't resemble any of the Stax lineup. Damn nice sound though. 

 The SR-Smegma Pro sounds good and fits with the Stax naming convention. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Omega
 Lambda
 Smegma
 Gamma
 Sigma

 Spot the odd one out...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are what my drivers are going in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Is those from the Gamma Pros I sold you? Looks schweet


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I gotta start reading to the end before posting...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Smeggy, how many people here do you think there are who have no idea what Smegma is, or pretend to know but really don't? HINT: It's worse than toe jam.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Smeggy, how many people here do you think there are who have no idea what Smegma is, or pretend to know but really don't? HINT: It's worse than toe jam. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm hoping the name will catch on bigtime before they find out


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. I don't know what it's designation will be as it doesn't resemble any of the Stax lineup. Damn nice sound though. 

 The SR-Smegma Pro sounds good and fits with the Stax naming convention. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Omega
 Lambda
 Smegma
 Gamma
 Sigma

 Spot the odd one out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good one Mr Richard Cheese


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good one Mr Richard Cheese 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Please, no need to be so formal, call me Dick.


----------



## Duggeh

You Win The Badge!


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You Win The Badge!




_

 


 YAY!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eagerly awaiting your listening impressions, Kai._

 

I sure will post some impressions.
 Just need to get my full hearing back (a cold is running through my body) and find some time to compare it against some of my other Stax'en.

 Hang in there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are what my drivers are going in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Wow! Beautiful woodwork.
 Should be fun seeing the end product of this SR-Gamma Pro/SR-007/xxx DIY 'phone.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just joined Team Stax/STAX. After a week with a SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo I've already ordered it and two other phones. In all the years I've been in this hobby my electrostatic time has been very limited and I don't want to sound like a zealot now with it being so fresh. I will say hearing the Lambdas took me back to my early steps of this hobby - my first Grado and my first good Ety seal (what years ago used to be called "The poor mans STAX"). They felt like gigantic jumps in SQ. Since then gear choices have been usually based on practical considerations or more minor performance gains - better separation here, tighter bass, less grainy vocals, etc. The Lambdas made me giddy all over again. It's been a long time since I scrambled to hear old music again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I got my first Stax some 20 months ago, and see where I am now. This is "dangerous" and great sounding gear. Enjoy!


----------



## Faust2D

I recently got another pair of Stax lambda headphones, that will find their home with FV. I gave them a thorough listen and look over before putting them in a box while they wait for their new owner. I was surpriced, well not really surpriced, how almost identically they sound to my pair. This consistency is a great thing. 

 Unlike K340 that all sound different Lambdas seem to sound exactly the same. The pads on these are a bit stiffer than on my pair and I attribute barely audible difference to the fit. When this tells me that the differences that people hear in Lambda sound should be attributed to their preferences and not to the manufacturing inconsistencies. They guys with lots of Lambda phones should correct me if I am wrong in any way here.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I recently got another pair of Stax lambda headphones, that will find their home with FV. I gave them a thorough listen and look over before putting them in a box while they wait for their new owner. I was surpriced, well not really surpriced, how almost identically they sound to my pair. This consistency is a great thing 
 

 Was the second pair the same type Lambda's?

 I use to own two pairs of SR-303 headphones and I made the same observation; They almost sounded the same. (although there was a few years and many hours of listening between the two pairs). Maybe they only loosened up a tiny bit during years of use.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Was the second pair the same type Lambda's?

 I use to own two pairs of SR-303 headphones and I made the same observation; They almost sounded the same. (although there was a few years and many hours of listening between the two pairs). Maybe they only loosened up a tiny bit during the years._

 

Same exact Lambda model. Both are SR-Lambda with normal bias.


----------



## smeggy

I love my SR-Lambda, it sounds awesome. It's going to get the prettiest wood/mesh/felt I can find for it's makeover. One day it might also get a 202 headband as a present because it's old band is a bit sloppy.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently got another pair of Stax lambda headphones, that will find their home with FV. I gave them a thorough listen and look over before putting them in a box while they wait for their new owner. I was surpriced, well not really surpriced, how almost identically they sound to my pair. This consistency is a great thing. 

 Unlike K340 that all sound different Lambdas seem to sound exactly the same. The pads on these are a bit stiffer than on my pair and I attribute barely audible difference to the fit. When this tells me that the differences that people hear in Lambda sound should be attributed to their preferences and not to the manufacturing inconsistencies. They guys with lots of Lambda phones should correct me if I am wrong in any way here._

 

The pads are the only variable I've found so with new earpads all the phones from the same model are identical. It doesn't matter if they are one of the first made or one of the last, they always sound the same. There was obviously very tight QC and the designs use parts that can be made in large numbers to a very tight tolerance.


----------



## brat

a stax amp confussion


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently got another pair of Stax lambda headphones, that will find their home with FV. I gave them a thorough listen and look over before putting them in a box while they wait for their new owner. I was surpriced, well not really surpriced, how almost identically they sound to my pair. This consistency is a great thing._

 

Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Great to see that you pass it on to a new owner, instead of storing it away (like I am known to do).


 I find the same consistency in the SR-Lambda Pro as well. When I picked up my second pair I compared it against my first pair, and they sounded identical to me. Not bad at all for 20+ year old products.


----------



## pdennis

There's a mystery electrostat on SF Craigslist! 

 I know some of you have experience with Suprex 'phones, but I haven't been able to find any info on the PEP-81.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a mystery electrostat on SF Craigslist! 

 I know some of you have experience with Suprex 'phones, but I haven't been able to find any info on the PEP-81._

 

probably another SR-3 version. How they will sound will have a lot to do with the housing, and either way they'll probably do well with some damping. $100 is about the maximum value, though; if you're interested, I'd suggest going to listen to them first to confirm that they're worth it, or maybe trying to talk him down to $80, at which point any working stat would be a deal.


----------



## wualta

I've been trying to remember/date the PEP-81 myself, and though I don't remember it, I did see test reports indexed by the Boston Audio Society that were dated late 1979. So it was a late model, probably very near the demise of Superex itself. What it looked like... ..?? My guess is that it looked like the PEP-74 [EDIT: It did. _Popular Mechanics_ did a quickie test of several advanced 'phones, including the Infinity ES-1, the Burwen/Peerless PMB-8 and the AKG K340 in its Nov 1980 issue.]

 See if you can get the seller to send us a photo.


----------



## Jalo

where do people go to buy Stax equipment?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_where do people go to buy Stax equipment?_

 

The 'for sale' forum and ebay usually. Mine came from Japan, Germany, England, Iceland and the US

 Yes, it can get complicated...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_where do people go to buy Stax equipment?_

 

Several places.
 Local stores, online stores, eBay (.com, de, ch and nl for me), Head-Fi members. My Stax came from Norway, Japan, Germany, The Netherlands, US, Iceland, Switzerland and South Africa.


----------



## Jalo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Several places.
 Local stores, online stores, eBay (.com, de, ch and nl for me), Head-Fi members. My Stax came from Norway, Japan, Germany, The Netherlands, US, Iceland, Switzerland and South Africa._

 

Thanks. Not having had any experience with electrostatic or Stax or the history of Stax, I am totally lost in the different generation of Stax and the models are equally confusing. It seems a lot of the models that are mentioned in these thread discontinued models. Can someone explain what are the currently available models? which one is the top of the line? how many variation are there etc. Thanks.


----------



## gp_hebert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Not having had any experience with electrostatic or Stax or the history of Stax, I am totally lost in the different generation of Stax and the models are equally confusing. It seems a lot of the models that are mentioned in these thread discontinued models. Can someone explain what are the currently available models? which one is the top of the line? how many variation are there etc. Thanks._

 

Here's your best ressource.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone explain what are the currently available models? which one is the top of the line? how many variation are there etc. Thanks._

 

These are the current in-production Stax models:
 * SR-007A (Japan), SR-007MK2 (export)
 * 4070
 * SR-404
 * SR-303
 * SR-202 (only sold as part of the SRS-2050II or SRS-3010 system)
 * SR-003
 * S-001MK2 (only sold as part of the SR-001MK2 system)


----------



## xnothingpoetic

.


----------



## scompton

Is SR-003 is sold as part of a kit or do I have to buy a separate amp or pro adapter?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is SR-003 is sold as part of a kit or do I have to buy a separate amp or pro adapter?_

 

You can buy it separately or as part of a system.
 * The SR-003 alone can be bought for $179 from Audio Cubes II. 
 * The SRS-005A (SR-003 and SRM-252A) can be had for $399 from the same place


----------



## bowraboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are the current in-production Stax models:
 * SR-007A (Japan), SR-007MK2 (export)
 * 4070
 * SR-404
 * SR-303
 * SR-202 (only sold as part of the SRS-2050II or SRS-3010 system)
 * SR-003
 * S-001MK2 (only sold as part of the SR-001MK2 system)_

 

Which of these would not be a downgrade from K701 & Talisman T-3H?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bowraboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which of these would not be a downgrade from K701 & Talisman T-3H?_

 

Depends who you ask and what sound signature they like.
 For me the K701 are no match to any of them. Perhaps with exception of the S-001MK2 and SR-003 (which i have never heard).

 The amplifier make a real difference as well. Which makes it even harder...


 I am a Stax fan though.


----------



## bowraboy

Thanks.

 Would it be worth buying something like this to try?

 When they say it comes with adapter, is that an amplifier that a DAC can be plugged into?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bowraboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks.

 Would it be worth buying something like this to try?

 When they say it comes with adapter, is that an amplifier that a DAC can be plugged into?_

 

Well. They might give you a taste of what you might expect from the current Stax 'phones. But remember that these are "only" electrets and Stax' end-of-the line 'phone in the early 1980's.
 Far from worth AUD230 imo. More like AUD50-75, or around there.

 If I were you I would either pick up a new SRS-2050A (SR-202 'phone and SRM-252A amplifier) from Price Japan. Or an SR-Lambda with SRD-7 from eBay, or similar. Expect to pay around $300 for a system. 

 The "Adapter" is a small box (with a couple of transformers), which you hook up to a regular speaker amplifier. Like: speaker amp -> adapter -> Stax 'phone.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 hanks.

 Would it be worth buying something like this to try?

 When they say it comes with adapter, is that an amplifier that a DAC can be plugged into? 
 

NO
 (and you need an additional amp.
 It will give you an idea (but probably the wrong one).
 Better try a pair of real electrostats at a dealer.


----------



## bowraboy

Thanks guys. Exactly what I wanted to know.


----------



## Jalo

Do people who buy Stax headphones always buy Stax amplifier to go with it? Can other SS amp or tube amp work with STax phones? I do notice the uncommon connector on the Stax cable.

 What is the difference between 007 and 007A?


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_where do people go to buy Stax equipment?_

 


 I'm lucky enough to have a stax dealer in Dallas, Texas.
 And they have a good demo setup of both Grado and Stax!


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do people who buy Stax headphones always buy Stax amplifier to go with it? Can other SS amp or tube amp work with STax phones? I do notice the uncommon connector on the Stax cable.

 What is the difference between 007 and 007A?_

 

A. Yes, there are very good small-maker and DIY amps, both SS and tube, that can be used wiith Stax headphones.

 B. You do realize, though, that electrostatic headphones work on an entirely different principle from dynamics and require either an adapter or a dedicated amp to work at all? A normal headphone amp will be useless with electrostats.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_B. You do realize, though, that electrostatic headphones work on an entirely different principle from dynamics and require either an adapter or a dedicated amp to work at all? A normal headphone amp will be useless with electrostats._

 

Some of the really serious, balls-to-the-wall diy headphone amps can be built with enough gain and a big enough power supply to *probably drive a transformer box to satisfying levels. 

 SRD-7 has a max continuous power handling of 7 watts iirc. 11 peak. Comfortable listening is probably down around 4 to 5 watts. 

 That T-Amp does what, 10? 

 An M^3 with a 36v 3A power supply and expanded power rail capacitance (and more gain than would usually be used for headphones - just different resistor selection) can drive 6 watts into 8 ohms and sound quite nice, from all reports, and the M^3 is just *middlin in power as overkill headphone amps go. 

 Not that I've tried the M^3 SRD-7 combo yet, but an M3 configured just to drive inefficient headphones drove my ESP6 just fine. 

 Of course, if you're not building your own, at the cost of a high-end headphone amp you could just buy a stax amp.


----------



## Jalo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are the current in-production Stax models:
 * SR-007A (Japan), SR-007MK2 (export)
 * 4070
 * SR-404
 * SR-303
 * SR-202 (only sold as part of the SRS-2050II or SRS-3010 system)
 * SR-003
 * S-001MK2 (only sold as part of the SR-001MK2 system)_

 



 Thanks for the info. Could you tell me if there is a difference between the 007A (Japan) and the 007MKII (Export) models? It sseems like there is a big difference in price. The audio cube shows a price for the 007A system of $3499.00 and the 007MK2 system at Moon Audio is $4220.00.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of the really serious, balls-to-the-wall diy headphone amps can be built with enough gain and a big enough power supply to *probably drive a transformer box to satisfying levels. 

 SRD-7 has a max continuous power handling of 7 watts iirc. 11 peak. Comfortable listening is probably down around 4 to 5 watts. 

 That T-Amp does what, 10? 

 An M^3 with a 36v 3A power supply and expanded power rail capacitance (and more gain than would usually be used for headphones - just different resistor selection) can drive 6 watts into 8 ohms and sound quite nice, from all reports, and the M^3 is just *middlin in power as overkill headphone amps go. 

 Not that I've tried the M^3 SRD-7 combo yet, but an M3 configured just to drive inefficient headphones drove my ESP6 just fine. 

 Of course, if you're not building your own, at the cost of a high-end headphone amp you could just buy a stax amp._

 

I am doing a review on the Travagans home amplifiers, and wanted to throw in some preliminary data, since it seems relevant right here, right now.

 I am able to drive an SRD-7 transformer and SR-5 Gold Edition via a Travagans Green amplifier, which is a headphone amp with banana jacks on the back for driving optional speakers. With music playing it took a few minutes to charge up the system, and probably 15-30 minutes for full volume but R>L, and 45-60 minutes of warmup for the channel imbalance to go away. After that, the headphones sounded nice. I am guessing the amp is pushing 3-5 watts tops. We typically use the SRD-5 with 117v AC for low power amps, instead of the self biasing, for this very reason.

 The "Green" amp is USB audio input only, with 1/8" out or banana jacks out, plus an optical out and coax out from the internal S/PDIF converter. The 1/8" out can also drive my bedside STAX SRM-1 Mk2 Pro as a preamp, and the optical out can go to my main rig in the bedroom to feed my Apogee mini-DAC. It can run on USB only for power, but it does need the 24v power brick if you are driving speakers. The "Red" amp is the analog input version, thus no USB or S/PDIF converter, but still drives headphones or speakers.

 Stay tuned for my review to be posted sometime next week.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bowraboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys. Exactly what I wanted to know._

 

You're welcome!
 Great to see our knowledge come to help...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do people who buy Stax headphones always buy Stax amplifier to go with it?_

 

Thats mixed.
 Some buy a complete Stax system, while others use Stax 'phones with amplifiers from other vendors.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can other SS amp or tube amp work with STax phones? I do notice the uncommon connector on the Stax cable._

 

Sure!
 There are lots of other amplifiers out there with a Stax connector, both solid state and tube. You can even use speaker amplifiers, through an energizer (like the SRD-7).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the difference between 007 and 007A?_

 

You talk about the SR-007 and SR-007A, right?
 The SR-007 were introduced in 1998, and have brown leather and champagne chassis. It was replaced in 2007 by the SR-007A (and the SR-007MK2 for export), and have black leather and silver chassis.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. Could you tell me if there is a difference between the 007A (Japan) and the 007MKII (Export) models? It sseems like there is a big difference in price. The audio cube shows a price for the 007A system of $3499.00 and the 007MK2 system at Moon Audio is $4220.00._

 

Afaik know the only difference are the chassis color and the model name.
 SR-007MK2 = black leather and black chassis.
 SR-007A = black leather and silver chassis.

 Sound vise they should be identical.

 NB! When you talk about systems there are another difference to be aware of. The amplifiers sold in Japan are set up for 100volt, and you need a step down converter to use it on other voltages.


----------



## Omom

After 2 years with dynamic rig (at the end was Zana Deux + DT880 600 Ohm, K340) I took my chance and changed to electrostatic. My equipment is Sony CDP 777es, SRM-T1S, SR-Omega, Sigma Pro and backup SRD-7 mkII. 
 What can I say? Sigma Pro and DT880 with ZD was only about preference and on the same level of joy. 
 But SR-Omega stopped my searching for absolute sound in headphone audio equipment.


----------



## spritzer

You really need something better then the T1S with those headphones. Both are power hogs and benefit greatly from a more powerful amp.


----------



## Omom

Maybe in future. I am satisfied now and my wallet will not help me. Everytime it is possible to fall in upgraditis.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 After 2 years with dynamic rig (at the end was Zana Deux + DT880 600 Ohm, K340) I took my chance and changed to electrostatic. My equipment is Sony CDP 777es, SRM-T1S, SR-Omega, Sigma Pro and backup SRD-7 mkII.
 What can I say? Sigma Pro and DT880 with ZD was only about preference and on the same level of joy.
 But SR-Omega stopped my searching for absolute sound in headphone audio equipment. 
 

sighh, those are beautifull...


----------



## Jalo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 You talk about the SR-007 and SR-007A, right?
 The SR-007 were introduced in 1998, and have brown leather and champagne chassis. It was replaced in 2007 by the SR-007A (and the SR-007MK2 for export), and have black leather and silver chassis.


 Afaik know the only difference are the chassis color and the model name.
 SR-007MK2 = black leather and black chassis.
 SR-007A = black leather and silver chassis.

 Sound vise they should be identical.

 NB! When you talk about systems there are another difference to be aware of. The amplifiers sold in Japan are set up for 100volt, and you need a step down converter to use it on other voltages._

 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


----------



## terance

I want to get back into headphones, so obviously it will be Stax. . .

 I really like the sound of the portable system but I absolutely hated the comfort.

 My other options?

 budget about $400


----------



## Jalo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are the current in-production Stax models:
 * SR-007A (Japan), SR-007MK2 (export)
 * 4070
 * SR-404
 * SR-303
 * SR-202 (only sold as part of the SRS-2050II or SRS-3010 system)
 * SR-003
 * S-001MK2 (only sold as part of the SR-001MK2 system)_

 


 Krmathis, thanks for all your help. Could you shed light on one more area if it is at all possible to quantify, how much difference in SQ are there from the top model (007MKII) to the next one down which I believe is 4070 and 404, 303 202 and so on? This may have covered in the previous pages in all 600+pages but I am sure you would understand if I just decide to skip the reading.Many thanks.


----------



## smeggy

The Pro drivers get new houses


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Omom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After 2 years with dynamic rig (at the end was Zana Deux + DT880 600 Ohm, K340) I took my chance and changed to electrostatic. My equipment is Sony CDP 777es, SRM-T1S, SR-Omega, Sigma Pro and backup SRD-7 mkII. 
 What can I say? Sigma Pro and DT880 with ZD was only about preference and on the same level of joy. 
 But SR-Omega stopped my searching for absolute sound in headphone audio equipment.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...1/IMG_2317.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...1/IMG_2319.jpg_

 

The SR-Omega sure is beautiful! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am very envious to those who own a pair, and hope I can score one myself some day. For a decent amount of money that is...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for sharing your knowledge._

 

The pleasure is on my side.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jalo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Krmathis, thanks for all your help. Could you shed light on one more area if it is at all possible to quantify, how much difference in SQ are there from the top model (007MKII) to the next one down which I believe is 4070 and 404, 303 202 and so on? This may have covered in the previous pages in all 600+pages but I am sure you would understand if I just decide to skip the reading.Many thanks.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











_

 

Something like this I would say.
 * SR-007 (not heard the A or MK2)
 *
 * 4070
 *
 *
 *
 * SR-404
 *
 * SR-303
 *
 * SR-202

 The SR-007 stand out clearly ahead of rest, with the 4070 not too far behind. While the Lambda's are quite close to each other..
 I recommend you give them a try on your own.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pro drivers get new houses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







_

 

*OMG!!* Those are beautiful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You need some black pads, and beautiful headband to match it though. Now I am excited.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

im trying to figure some of this stax stuff out - 

 I've got laptop audio out going into a Marantz 2270 ss amp (it's a vintage speaker amp). 

 How would a stax setup work here? How about if I could get my hands on some SR-Lambdas and an SRD-X amp?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*OMG!!* Those are beautiful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You need some black pads, and beautiful headband to match it though. Now I am excited._

 

Thanks Kai 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I got all excited myself when I saw this nice piece of wood in the shop today. I bought some wool felt and wire bin yesterday so I went to work this evening and a bit of hack 'n' slash later I had these. 

 Sadly I can't afford black O2 pads and headband just yet so it'll be a bodge up until I can. Looks and sounds pretty good for $30 in materials


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im trying to figure some of this stax stuff out - 

 I've got laptop audio out going into a Marantz 2270 ss amp (it's a vintage speaker amp). 

 How would a stax setup work here? How about if I could get my hands on some SR-Lambdas and an SRD-X amp?_

 

That would work. You can also get a Lambda with SRD-7 and plug them into the speaker outlets. There's a butload of them on ebay right now.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would work. You can also get a Lambda with SRD-7 and plug them into the speaker outlets. There's a butload of them on ebay right now._

 

What's the difference between all these amps? Like the SRD-X and the SRD-#s?

 I see the lists on ebay - they seem to be (at least before the auction gets close to ending) pretty cheap! are all SR-Lambda's the same? Can anyone break down the amps for me?


----------



## smeggy

The SRD-X is a portable amp that can run off a wall wart or batteries and plugs into a headphone socket.

 The SRD-# are transformers, not amps. They convert amplifier speaker output to the correct signal for the electrostats.

 Transformers:
 SRD-6 is normal bias
 SRD-7 SB is normal bias
 SRD-7 MkII is normal and Pro bias
 SRD-7 Pro is Pro bias.

 Stax home amps are SRM-??????

 The transformers are pretty good with the SR-Lambda and is what I use.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Kai 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I got all excited myself when I saw this nice piece of wood in the shop today. I bought some wool felt and wire bin yesterday so I went to work this evening and a bit of hack 'n' slash later I had these. 

 Sadly I can't afford black O2 pads and headband just yet so it'll be a bodge up until I can. Looks and sounds pretty good for $30 in materials 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll trade you some black O2 pads for a K1000.

 Maybe thats a bit lopsided actually. I'll throw in the new Phonodome DR-SFI too.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll trade you some black O2 pads for a K1000.

 Maybe thats a bit lopsided actually. I'll throw in the new Phonodome DR-SFI too._

 

Yeah, that sounds like a great trade!



 .............Not


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Kai 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I got all excited myself when I saw this nice piece of wood in the shop today. I bought some wool felt and wire bin yesterday so I went to work this evening and a bit of hack 'n' slash later I had these. 

 Sadly I can't afford black O2 pads and headband just yet so it'll be a bodge up until I can. Looks and sounds pretty good for $30 in materials 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So how about sending me a set so I can use it with my SR-Ω headband? I'll send you some black SR-Ω earpads as well...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pro drivers get new houses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 <pics>_

 

How will the drivers be attached to the housing?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How will the drivers be attached to the housing?_

 

You can how they are fitted to the baffle inside the earpads and I guess that would be attached to the earcup.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can how they are fitted to the baffle inside the earpads and I guess that would be attached to the earcup._

 

So they will just stay in place because they are fitted tightly to the baffle?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So they will just stay in place because they are fitted tightly to the baffle?_

 

That's how the original SR-X design works. The drivers are glued to the baffle which the earcup is then attached to.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRD-X is a portable amp that can run off a wall wart or batteries and plugs into a headphone socket.

 The SRD-# are transformers, not amps. They convert amplifier speaker output to the correct signal for the electrostats.

 Transformers:
 SRD-6 is normal bias
 SRD-7 SB is normal bias
 SRD-7 MkII is normal and Pro bias
 SRD-7 Pro is Pro bias.

 Stax home amps are SRM-??????

 The transformers are pretty good with the SR-Lambda and is what I use._

 

Thanks for the explanation. It raises another question though - what is the bias?

 And what is the sound quality between the portable amps like the SRD-X and the transformers?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im trying to figure some of this stax stuff out - 

 I've got laptop audio out going into a Marantz 2270 ss amp (it's a vintage speaker amp). 

 How would a stax setup work here? How about if I could get my hands on some SR-Lambdas and an SRD-X amp?_

 

Since you have the Marantz, I'd forget the SRD-X and go for an SRD-6 or 7 (sb or plain). Should be cheaper and will give you a better sound than the SRD-X, lowest of all Stax amps. 

 However, I would STRONGLY advise that you get a dac or external soundcard in between your laptop and the 2270. Even a $100 option will be leagues ahead of your onboard sound, and you'll be able to hear the difference instantly.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a butload of them on ebay right now._

 

Holy moly, you aren't kidding. I can't remember the last time I saw so many Lambdas on ebay at once. I'd be salivating wildly if I hadn't already just taken care of my own Lambda deficit.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the explanation. It raises another question though - what is the bias?_

 

It refer to the voltage used to charge the diaphragms.
 The first Stax earspeakers used 230 volts (Normal bias), while the later and all current ones use 580 volts (Pro bias).


----------



## 2deadeyes

Not sure if this was ever asked, but a higher bias voltage equates to ??? besides a more painful zap 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Does higher bias lead to better sound quality?


----------



## Snicewicz

What would be a good price to pay for these and are they worth it? STAX SR-5 (Gold)+ SRD-6/SB Electrostatic Headphones - eBay (item 120247772378 end time Apr-27-08 07:30:00 PDT)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can also get a Lambda with SRD-7 and plug them into the speaker outlets. There's a butload of them on ebay right now._

 

Oh my! Can't remember every seeing five SR-Lambda's on eBay at the same time.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snicewicz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good price to pay for these and are they worth it? STAX SR-5 (Gold)+ SRD-6/SB Electrostatic Headphones - eBay (item 120247772378 end time Apr-27-08 07:30:00 PDT)_

 

No more than $150-200 imo. If you're not a collector and NEEd them that is..
 But as always its worth what someone is willing to pay.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It refer to the voltage used to charge the diaphragms.
 The first Stax earspeakers used 230 volts (Normal bias), while the later and all current ones use 580 volts (Pro bias)._

 

The first Stax earspeakers had a 200v bias and this wasn't raised to 230v until the SR-Sigma arrived in 1977. If you have the instructions manual for the SR-X Mk3 then look up the specs. Why Stax raised the bias isn't clear and the difference in sound is minimal at best but it could be due to the different coating materials that they started to use in the 70's. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not sure if this was ever asked, but a higher bias voltage equates to ??? besides a more painful zap 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does higher bias lead to better sound quality?_

 

In a word, no. The bias sets the potential of the driver so with a higher bias you get more excursion but as with everything there are drawbacks. The upper limit of the bias is set by the inherent impedance of air which has a breakdown voltage of about 100v/mill and less then that if it is very humid. So if the bias goes up then the spacing between diaphragm and stator needs to be widened. It's also tough to insulate the voltages needed in such a small space. 

 Now some may wonder why a normal and pro bias headphones plugged into the same Stax amp have a very similar volume level? This is because the 580v bias wasn't chosen by accident. The normal bias headphones have a D/S spacing of 0.3mm while the Pro bias headphones have a spacing of 0.5mm so a bias point was needed that would yield a similar volume level at the same voltage on the stators. Since electrostatic force falls by the square root of the distance you need a much higher bias voltage for every new 0.1mm of D/S spacing. This is why electrostatic speaker even have as much as 12kV of bias and the Jecklin Float PS2 has 1500v.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No more than $150-200 imo. If you're not a collector and NEEd them that is..
 But as always its worth what someone is willing to pay. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The thing is, with so many Lambdas coming up at the same time, the price on one or two of them is liable to get down in that range too, in which case they are the better option. Of course, the Lambdas might also distract the people who would otherwise have bid on the 5 gold, so it may be a toss up. Throw that SR-X into the mix, and it's a big week for used stax on ebay.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

What will the real sound difference be between the SR-X's and the SR-#s? I see a Lamda + SR-X on ebay now, but I have an amp, so I could use a transformer instead of an SR-X amp.

 Also - what's the main difference between the Lambdas (the rectangular ones, right?) and the circular headphones? I seem to be getting the impression that Lambdas are better - are all Lambdas the same?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The first Stax earspeakers had a 200v bias and this wasn't raised to 230v until the SR-Sigma arrived in 1977. If you have the instructions manual for the SR-X Mk3 then look up the specs. Why Stax raised the bias isn't clear and the difference in sound is minimal at best but it could be due to the different coating materials that they started to use in the 70's._

 

You are right indeed.
 I have an SR-X/MK3 instruction manual and it does say "Polarizing voltage: 200V DC". So its Normal bias = 200v or 230v, and Pro bias = 580v.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The thing is, with so many Lambdas coming up at the same time, the price on one or two of them is liable to get down in that range too, in which case they are the better option. Of course, the Lambdas might also distract the people who would otherwise have bid on the 5 gold, so it may be a toss up. Throw that SR-X into the mix, and it's a big week for used stax on ebay._

 

So true!
 There are currently five (5) SR-Lambda's on eBay, and some other Lambda's as well. A couple of them may not go higher than what I suggested for the SR-5 Gold, so there may be possible to score a nice deal.

 I certainly have my eyes on a couple of them.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What will the real sound difference be between the SR-X's and the SR-#s? I see a Lamda + SR-X on ebay now, but I have an amp, so I could use a transformer instead of an SR-X amp.

 Also - what's the main difference between the Lambdas (the rectangular ones, right?) and the circular headphones? I seem to be getting the impression that Lambdas are better - are all Lambdas the same?_

 

This has all been commented on dozens of times in this thread already. Try searching for full details. Basic notes, though:

 A general ranking of Stax headphones might go (in ascending order)

 Stax electrets
 -gap-
 SR-3 (and variants from other brands)
 SR-5
 SR-X, 5N (gold), SR-Gamma
 SR-X pro, Gamma Pro
 -gap-
 SR-Lambda, Sigma, and a complicated range of Lambda variants
 4070, Airbow Lambda
 -gap-
 Omega and SR-007 (opinions differ)

 Heck, opinions differ on a lot of these ranks, but the biggest variations are in the way people rank the many versions of the Lambda, which is a decision besst made on long reading (or ideally, testing) to try to match personal taste. 

 After this, amp options are also key, very nearly as important and just a big a field of possibilities.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also - what's the main difference between the Lambdas (the rectangular ones, right?) and the circular headphones?_

 

With circular you mean SR-007 (BL, A, MK2), SR-X/MK?, ... right?
 The SR-007 are in a league of its own sound wise. The SR-X/MK? were monitor headphones and have a close resemble with the 4070. While the Lambda's were/are "average" 'phones for the masses.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I seem to be getting the impression that Lambdas are better - are all Lambdas the same?_

 

There are lots of different Lambda 'phones:
 * SR-Lambda
 * SR-Lambda Pro
 * SR-Lambda Signature
 * SR-Lambda Pro Classic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Basic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Classic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Signature

 Then there are the SR-202, SR-303 and SR-404, which all are part of the Lambda family as well.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are lots of different Lambda 'phones:
 * SR-Lambda
 * SR-Lambda Pro
 * SR-Lambda Signature
 * SR-Lambda Pro Classic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Basic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Classic
 * SR-Lambda Nova Signature

 Then there are the SR-202, SR-303 and SR-404, which all are part of the Lambda family as well._

 

That's a lot of listening and collecting left for me to do
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't read much about the Nova Basic/Classic earspeakers, nor do I see them for sale nearly as often as I see the Lambda, L-Pro or L-Sig.


----------



## smeggy

Spritzer, I may take you up on that offer once I get the rest of these phones here done 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still have 4 more to go.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I may take you up on that offer once I get the rest of these phones here done 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still have 4 more to go._

 

Just shoot me a PM when you are ready.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* 
_I bought some wool felt and wire bin yesterday..._

 

So that's what that wire cloth is called. Where does one get "wire bin"? _UPDATE:_ Aha, you got it *from* a wire bin!


 .


----------



## AudioCats

saw you guys talking about modifying 4070 hoursings in the HE audio thread, so the 4070 and 404 do have different drivers?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_saw you guys talking about modifying 4070 hoursings in the HE audio thread, so the 4070 and 404 do have different drivers?_

 

Exactly the same drivers, earpads, cable and baffle although they have been modified on the 4070 by adding ports.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_saw you guys talking about modifying 4070 hoursings in the HE audio thread, so the 4070 and 404 do have different drivers?_

 

Same drivers, different housing and baffle.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly the same drivers, earpads, cable and baffle although they have been modified on the 4070 by adding ports._

 

Isn't baffle different on 4070?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't baffle different on 4070?_

 

He said "and baffle although they have been modified on the 4070 by adding ports."


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He said "and baffle although they have been modified on the 4070 by adding ports."_

 

Well I know about ports. I thought they were made out of different material.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

what would the value of a Lambda and an SRD-X amp be? Is around $300 shipped a decent price?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Yes, that's a decent price, about what the one on eBay went for. I watched the auction with no plans to buy, as I already have 2 SRD-X and don't need a third.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

well I won that auction 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I bid on a whim after hearing all the amazing talk of the Stax on this forum. Didn't expect to win, but hey.

 I figure I'll try it out and if I'm not amazed then I'll re-sell them.

 Currently I'm using a vintage pair of AKG K-141s (the silver kind, 4-600 ohms). So we'll see what the quality difference is like.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I like the sound of the SRD-X when plugged into the headphone out of my DarkVoice 336i tube amp. And the SR-Lambda are great sounding, I thought better than SR-Lambda Pros. You should enjoy them.


----------



## TheNewGuy8

I'll be running the SRD-X out of a recently cleaned Marantz 2270 from the 70s (sounds wonderful). Currently they're running a pair of Kef iQ1's.

 Man I should NOT just read these boards. They make me spend $300+ without even THINKING about it!

 grumble.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So that's what that wire cloth is called. Where does one get "wire bin"?_

 

Staples:






 Cuts nicely with a pair of good craft scissors. This is what I used in my phones. Epoxy coated steel.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I know about ports. I thought they were made out of different material._

 

It's the same plastic material


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_saw you guys talking about modifying 4070 hoursings in the HE audio thread, so the 4070 and 404 do have different drivers?_

 

The 4070 and SR-404 have identical drivers, cable and earpads. While the rest (headband, forks, housing, ..) are different. I think it would be fun to modify a 4070 into an open-back 'phone. $1400 is not pocket money though..


----------



## sango

Is it difficult to change cable/driver in 404/4070?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it difficult to change cable/driver in 404/4070?_

 

Change it to what?


----------



## HDen

I just got my 2050A basic system. 

 It sounds really good, but it don't think it's on par to my D5000's setup...

 It could be the dac(keces dac), or maybe that since it's a basic system it's not supposed to be THAT good? Any ideas? Maybe after burning in?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my 2050A basic system. 

 It sounds really good, but it don't think it's on par to my D5000's setup...

 It could be the dac(keces dac), or maybe that since it's a basic system it's not supposed to be THAT good? Any ideas? Maybe after burning in?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Please let it get 50-100 hours to settle in before making any conclusions. I have noticed improvements myself after these playing hours, compared to straight out of the box.

 System matching are important as well. Maybe try a different interconnect?


----------



## sango

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Change it to what?_

 

change cable or driver to a new one if it brakes or something


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Please let it get 50-100 hours to settle in before making any conclusions. I have noticed improvements myself after these playing hours, compared to straight out of the box.

 System matching are important as well. Maybe try a different interconnect?_

 

I brought these home, unfortunately I don't have any other interconnects but these singlecable ones, and the ones that come with the 2050A. I'm going to burn in this setup, and let you know if I hear any differences when I'm done.


----------



## milkpowder

Do you have the silver SignalCables?


----------



## HDen

no I have the Analog Two, Analog Two with the eichmann copper bullet plugs


----------



## HDen

well, I left these burning-in overnight with some pink-noise at above average level, and I can tell there's a difference, the bass seems tighter, and everything overall seems more 'refined'?

 One thing for sure though is these headphones are really really comfortable, even when wearing glasses, much more comfortable imo then the d5000s.


----------



## smeggy

Ok, I know it might sound like gushing hyperbole but my Stax Smegma Pros are now the best headphones I've ever heard by a good margin. As a modded SR-X pro it was about on a par with the K1000 and equal favorites, now the Smegma Pros crush them for everything except soundstage. They are amazing and have me frantically sifting through songs to listen to. 

 I don't think there is a headphone you could offer to swap with that I'd take. No, not even those! Stats got no impact? Pah! I've heard the dynamic competition and these are simply better. Faster, clearer and more dynamic than anything I've heard.

 There, that's better


----------



## webbie64

Congratulations, Smeggy.

 Conversion is such sweet bliss 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I know it might sound like gushing hyperbole but my Stax Smegma Pros are now the best headphones I've ever heard by a good margin. As a modded SR-X pro it was about on a par with the K1000 and equal favorites, now the Smegma Pros crush them for everything except soundstage. They are amazing and have me frantically sifting through songs to listen to. 

 I don't think there is a headphone you could offer to swap with that I'd take. No, not even those! Stats got no impact? Pah! I've heard the dynamic competition and these are simply better. Faster, clearer and more dynamic than anything I've heard.

 There, that's better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations, Smeggy.

 Conversion is such sweet bliss 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg




_

 

wow those look gorgeous, did you mod them yourself? how about a how-to?


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Wow SR-Smegmas look so ****in awesome! I'm jealous.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I know it might sound like gushing hyperbole but my Stax Smegma Pros are now the best headphones I've ever heard by a good margin. As a modded SR-X pro it was about on a par with the K1000 and equal favorites, now the Smegma Pros crush them for everything except soundstage. They are amazing and have me frantically sifting through songs to listen to. 

 I don't think there is a headphone you could offer to swap with that I'd take. No, not even those! Stats got no impact? Pah! I've heard the dynamic competition and these are simply better. Faster, clearer and more dynamic than anything I've heard.

 There, that's better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If I had thought I could have made my Gamma Pro into those, I would have kept them. But, glad you were able to put them to good use, because I could have never ended up with something as beautiful as that!


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg




_

 

That's the ugliest pair of headphones that I've ever seen.

 And, I demand that you turn them in to me for immediate disposal.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Snacks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the ugliest pair of headphones that I've ever seen._

 

Yeah, makes it so obvious why Stax never made them that way in the first place, doesn't it?


----------



## Faust2D

Hi fellow Stax owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone here have a digital version of Stax brochures that talk about SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma specifically and generally about Stax headphones from that time period. Please PM me if you have something like that. Thanks in advance.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, makes it so obvious why Stax never made them that way in the first place, doesn't it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Heh, rest assured, they sound better than they look 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 HDen:
 Any how-to's would involve getting a lathe, some Gamma Pros and sundry other things. Anyway, glad you all like them. I have to woody the SR-X, Gamma and Lambda drivers next as well as some Orthos and Electrets.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi fellow Stax owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone here have a digital version of Stax brochures that talk about SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma specifically and generally about Stax headphones from that time period. Please PM me if you have something like that. Thanks in advance._

 

I don't know it this has what you want. I've been thinking of buying a couple of these

Stax manuals - eBay (item 250236303218 end time May-12-08 16:43:24 PDT)


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg




_

 

Wow, these are very good and professional looking cans. I'd love to hear them.

 But, ditch that horrible self-deprecating name. I wouldn't want to put "itchy anal drip HD650 mods" into a business ad, and I think these headphones deserve better. But then again I'm not the one who made them...


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg




_

 

Oh dear, why do you have to use the word "smegma"
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 These phones deserve a nicer name!!!


----------



## smeggy

I just call them that in fun, Hell I wouldn't know how to describe them name-wise as they bear little resemblance to any actual Stax. Besides, the name flows in like the rest of the series, if you don't know what it means anyway


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi fellow Stax owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone here have a digital version of Stax brochures that talk about SR-Lambda and SR-Sigma specifically and generally about Stax headphones from that time period. Please PM me if you have something like that. Thanks in advance._

 

Here is one brochure I have on SRM-1 Mk2. Nothing exactly like what you asked for, sorry.

 I also have a larger one on the SR-001 Mk2 from 1999, and one on the SR-005II, both too big to attach.


----------



## smeggy

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2660122-post1.html

STAX Products histry

 some good pdf info there for some items


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2660122-post1.html

STAX Products histry

 some good pdf info there for some items_

 

Far out!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 'conversion' is bigger than you might imagine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...egmaprofg4.jpg




_

 

SWEET! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know it this has what you want. I've been thinking of buying a couple of these

Stax manuals - eBay (item 250236303218 end time May-12-08 16:43:24 PDT)_

 

Perhaps we could get together and buy one of these, then make them publicly available for download somewhere?

 After all the seller claim: Quote:


 All these manuals and schematics are in the public domain and there are no copyright infringements.


----------



## Johnny Blue

If they were mainly manuals, I'd be interested (I've only got a Japanese manual for my SR-001 II system, and would like it in English), but most of the stuff on offer is brochures, which are available on the Stax site (see link above).


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Perhaps we could get together and buy one of these, then make them publicly available for download somewhere? 
 

+1

 It would also be nice to have a fixed pace with Stax info (better than wikipedia and the Japanese Stax page)


----------



## _LN_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've only got a Japanese manual for my SR-001 II system, and would like it in English_

 

I don't even have a Japanese one, let alone an English one! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I agree, no point in paying for freely downloadable info... 

 Ellen


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2660122-post1.html

STAX Products histry

 some good pdf info there for some items_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is one brochure I have on SRM-1 Mk2. Nothing exactly like what you asked for, sorry.

 I also have a larger one on the SR-001 Mk2 from 1999, and one on the SR-005II, both too big to attach._

 

Thanks a lot!


----------



## webbie64

There are place on the Web where you can download manuals for free - generally either by registering at that site or offering to scan a manual you have that the website doesn't (so you become a contributor in the sharing).

 Examples:
HiFi Engine - SR-303 Manual - Free Download / User / Service / Schematic
Audio STAX Industries : Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcb,repair info for test equipment and electronics


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2660122-post1.html

 some good pdf info there for some items_

 

What really would be nice is to have a brochure like this but from early 80's.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2660122-post1.html_

 

Hadn't spotted that brochure before. I hadn't realized that the SR-5NB was still on offer so late, even after the discontinuation of the SR-X it seems. Also odd to think that it was sold as a lower model than the SR-Gamma, while in the last year or two it seems to have finally overtaken the Gamma in both esteem and dollar value.

 Also it never occurred to me that the SR-Lambda was still sold alongside the Pro and Pro Sig that late. Now I understand why there are so many normal-bias Lambdas around-- if you could test a pro and a normal bias Lambda at the store and the price difference was big, which one would you choose?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hadn't spotted that brochure before. I hadn't realized that the SR-5NB was still on offer so late, even after the discontinuation of the SR-X it seems. Also odd to think that it was sold as a lower model than the SR-Gamma, while in the last year or two it seems to have finally overtaken the Gamma in both esteem and dollar value.

 Also it never occurred to me that the SR-Lambda was still sold alongside the Pro and Pro Sig that late. Now I understand why there are so many normal-bias Lambdas around-- if you could test a pro and a normal bias Lambda at the store and the price difference was big, which one would you choose?_

 

SR-Gamma in the end seems to be a better design, but It's a matter of preference. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 SR-Lambda were probably selling very well, since I would image many people would prefer them even to signatures.


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_+1

 It would also be nice to have a fixed pace with Stax info (better than wikipedia and the Japanese Stax page)_

 

I agree with this, a nice website with all stax information and users could contribute by uploading their pictures, or adding information.


----------



## Elephas

SR-007 Mk II is here.

 Out of the box, it clamps harder on my head than the Mk I. The leather earpads look thicker and seem to create a very tight seal, maybe tighter than the Mk I. There is significantly less tendency to fart; I can jump up and down, shake my head side to side and make vigorous headbanging motions without any fart at all. The Mk I farts much more readily, sometimes when I turn my head.

 The earpads still rotate independently of the outer ring, but both earpads and outer rings have greater resistance and don't spin around as easily. I think this is a welcome improvement. I always have to align the SR-007's earpads and outer rings every time I put them on because they slide around so easily. I would rather have just the earpads rotate, though. I don't understand why the outer ring has to rotate, the OCDness in me always has to have the cable entry point at the 6 o'clock position.

 For some reason, I like the Mk II's sound more than the Mk I. Can it be? Is it the dreaded spritzer-fication? Do I prefer the Mk II over the Mk I, SR-Omega and HE90, and driven by the Aristaeus at that? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are there any reversible ways to fix the SR007 earpads and outer rings in place, and of course without causing an cosmetic damage?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with this, a nice website with all stax information and users could contribute by uploading their pictures, or adding information._

 

two words: simply stax. I'm still a bit taken aback that Howard wouldn't let anyone else host the tremendously useful database he'd built up when he decided to pull the plug on his business. I guess it was his to kill, but still.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Gamma in the end seems to be a better design, but It's a matter of preference. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 SR-Lambda were probably selling very well, since I would image many people would prefer them even to signatures. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe, but blessingx has both and he wrote to me yesterday that to his ear the SR-5NB is the better headphone. The proof is that he's selling his Gamma and not his SR-5NB. Having heard only a normal SR-5 and nary a Gamma, I'll withhold judgement. I do know, though, that a year ago in Germany an SR-5 gold was worth more than an SR-X, and that a Gamma was worth nearly as much as a Lambda, but partly I think due to scarcity.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pipoplus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
+1

 It would also be nice to have a fixed pace with Stax info (better than wikipedia and the Japanese Stax page)

 

I agree with this, a nice website with all stax information and users could contribute by uploading their pictures, or adding information._

 

Then how about one or both of you starting working on it?
 I am sure we can find somewhere to host it, and share out knowledge.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007 Mk II is here._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You certainly have a Stax collection to envy.


----------



## facelvega

Big week for me on the stat front: finally procured an SR-Lambda earlier in the week with help from Faust2D, and now today I've finally received the PMB500 that I bought from Digitalmind. I'll post impressions by and by, but for now I can say that I'm a happy man indeed on both fronts.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_


 Maybe, but blessingx has both and he wrote to me yesterday that to his ear the SR-5NB is the better headphone. The proof is that he's selling his Gamma and not his SR-5NB. Having heard only a normal SR-5 and nary a Gamma, I'll withhold judgement. I do know, though, that a year ago in Germany an SR-5 gold was worth more than an SR-X, and that a Gamma was worth nearly as much as a Lambda, but partly I think due to scarcity._

 

Well he had a Alpha pads and frame with Gamma drives, and it so so condition. His SR-5 is in top shape. Just saying.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Big week for me on the stat front: finally procured an SR-Lambda earlier in the week with help from Faust2D, and now today I've finally received the PMB500 that I bought from Digitalmind. I'll post impressions by and by, but for now I can say that I'm a happy man indeed on both fronts._

 

Wooooohooooo. Finally a PMB500, can't wait for your comparison to SR-Lambda


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007 Mk II is here.

 Out of the box, it clamps harder on my head than the Mk I. The leather earpads look thicker and seem to create a very tight seal, maybe tighter than the Mk I. There is significantly less tendency to fart; I can jump up and down, shake my head side to side and make vigorous headbanging motions without any fart at all. The Mk I farts much more readily, sometimes when I turn my head.

 The earpads still rotate independently of the outer ring, but both earpads and outer rings have greater resistance and don't spin around as easily. I think this is a welcome improvement. I always have to align the SR-007's earpads and outer rings every time I put them on because they slide around so easily. I would rather have just the earpads rotate, though. I don't understand why the outer ring has to rotate, the OCDness in me always has to have the cable entry point at the 6 o'clock position.

 For some reason, I like the Mk II's sound more than the Mk I. Can it be? Is it the dreaded spritzer-fication? Do I prefer the Mk II over the Mk I, SR-Omega and HE90, and driven by the Aristaeus at that? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Interesting, I always said I wasn't crazy fro preferring the SR-007 to all others. My recent source upgrade only strengthened my convictions. Now I can't wait for the SR-007A to arrive... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any reversible ways to fix the SR007 earpads and outer rings in place, and of course without causing an cosmetic damage?_

 

You can always jam the mechanism with something. I've seen toothpicks and other such items used. It's worth a shot...


----------



## PiccoloNamek

So, now that I'm all Stax'd out, it's time to start thinking of upgrading! What is the best possible (or close to it) amplifier for normal bias Stax headphones? The one I have now sounds fine, but it's really only a stand-in until I can get something really nice. Solid state is preferable.


----------



## Duggeh

Blue Hawaii with a normal bias socket


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Man, I knew somebody was going to say that. That is for some time in the distant future...

 OK then. How about something pretty good, but not necessarily the best?


----------



## Duggeh

Was the SRM-717 ever made with a normal bias socket? I know that the 007t had one for at least some of its production run. Elsewise the SRM-T1 or some variant thereof would be the stock answer. Or you could go with a transformer box. Theres the KGSS as well which is cheaper than the Blue Hawaii, but I've no idea how many are out there with normal bias sockets.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I knew somebody was going to say that. That is for some time in the distant future...

 OK then. How about something pretty good, but not necessarily the best?_

 

KGSS


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, now that I'm all Stax'd out, it's time to start thinking of upgrading! What is the best possible (or close to it) amplifier for normal bias Stax headphones? The one I have now sounds fine, but it's really only a stand-in until I can get something really nice. Solid state is preferable._

 

KGBH SE with a normal bias output maybe? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some pictures:


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Also, another question: do all Stax brand amplifiers have the funky dual volume control? That thing is getting on my nerves. I've only seen one other Stax amp in person, and I don't remember if it did or not.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Was the SRM-717 ever made with a normal bias socket? I know that the 007t had one for at least some of its production run. Elsewise the SRM-T1 or some variant thereof would be the stock answer. Or you could go with a transformer box. Theres the KGSS as well which is cheaper than the Blue Hawaii, but I've no idea how many are out there with normal bias sockets._

 

The 717 was never sold with a normal socket. The SRM-3 and the T2 were also Pro only.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I knew somebody was going to say that. That is for some time in the distant future...

 OK then. How about something pretty good, but not necessarily the best?_

 

I would go with the SRM-007t. I sold my KGSS and kept my 007t & 717.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, another question: do all Stax brand amplifiers have the funky dual volume control? That thing is getting on my nerves. I've only seen one other Stax amp in person, and I don't remember if it did or not._

 

All Stax amps I've ever seen except the small SRM/Xh (and probably SRM 212/252 and similar) did have a dual volume control kombined in one knob.I like it since I do have hearing imbalance whenever I have a cold (has something to do with the eustachian tubes).What exactly is getting on your nerves?As soon as you've set it you can use it like a single stereo pot.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, another question: do all Stax brand amplifiers have the funky dual volume control? That thing is getting on my nerves. I've only seen one other Stax amp in person, and I don't remember if it did or not._

 

comes in handy sometimes when old stats get a channel imbalance. Which amp are you using, by the way? An SRA-35? Never heard of this model. I do know of the SRA-3s, though. Possible upgrades: cheap, SRM-1 mkII (there's a normal-bias only one up for auction right now); expensive, KGSS with normal bias out. I don't know why people keep mentioning the Blue Hawaii when you explicitly said SS preferable. BH on the brain, I guess-- a common sickness around here. Yet I know of one person on this thread who has an amp builder working on a new concoction that should be a significant improvement on the BH...


----------



## Elephas

If the Blue Hawaii drives the SR-007 I and II better than the Aristaeus, which I assume is true, I think I can safely say that the MkII is arguably the best-sounding electrostatic headphone. Yes, better than the SR-Omega or HE90.

 I'm on the list for a Blue Hawaii SE and am also waiting for an SP ES-1. I believe Justin has indicated he will be bringing a BHSE and SR-007 MkII to CanJam. The lucky people who will hear that system better hang on to their wallets. I would feel confident betting on that system vs. any single-ended dynamic system.

 I've always liked the Mk I's precision imaging and ultra-clear separation. Each note and sound source is so distinct that I don't mind its relatively small headstage as much. But the Mk II seems to me to have a bigger headstage than the Mk I, and, incredibly, even better imaging and separation. It is so precise and clear that I think the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60 and 4070 all seem a bit muddy and blurry in comparison.

 Tonality seems close to perfect to me. Just very slightly dark, and very slightly brighter than the Mk I. Refinement to the max. Bass quality and quantity is near L3000 level, which basically means it's among the best bass I've heard.

 I think the Mk II ranks in the top three in basically every category I can think of, refinement, soundstage, headstage, imaging, details, tonal accuracy, tonal balance, extension, bass quality, bass quantity.

 If this post sounded like a rave, yeah, I guess it is.


----------



## PiccoloNamek

I just don't like it. Sometimes I grip it wrong, and mess up my careful calibration. Plus, I'm never quite sure I've got it really, exactly centered. I keep checking it with tones and pink noise, and it never sounds quite right. Probably just a mental effect, but it's a strong one.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, another question: do all Stax brand amplifiers have the funky dual volume control? That thing is getting on my nerves. I've only seen one other Stax amp in person, and I don't remember if it did or not._

 

No! My SRM-007t and SRM-1/MK2 have this dual volume knob. While my previous SRM-001 did not.
 The same goes for the SRM-252II, SRM-310, and probably more.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Was the SRM-717 ever made with a normal bias socket? I know that the 007t had one for at least some of its production run._

 

No, not as far as I know.
 But the SRM-007t were available with both Pro and Normal bias outputs though, as you mention. I have one of those


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If this post sounded like a rave, yeah, I guess it is._

 

Shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Your raving about the SR-007MK2 compared to the SR-007 don't help at all. Cause I really like the all-black look, and try my best to stay clear of buying one...

 Great to see that you love them though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the Blue Hawaii drives the SR-007 I and II better than the Aristaeus, which I assume is true, I think I can safely say that the MkII is arguably the best-sounding electrostatic headphone. Yes, better than the SR-Omega or HE90.

 I'm on the list for a Blue Hawaii SE and am also waiting for an SP ES-1. I believe Justin has indicated he will be bringing a BHSE and SR-007 MkII to CanJam. The lucky people who will hear that system better hang on to their wallets. I would feel confident betting on that system vs. any single-ended dynamic system.

 I've always liked the Mk I's precision imaging and ultra-clear separation. Each note and sound source is so distinct that I don't mind its relatively small headstage as much. But the Mk II seems to me to have a bigger headstage than the Mk I, and, incredibly, even better imaging and separation. It is so precise and clear that I think the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60 and 4070 all seem a bit muddy and blurry in comparison.

 Tonality seems close to perfect to me. Just very slightly dark, and very slightly brighter than the Mk I. Refinement to the max. Bass quality and quantity is near L3000 level, which basically means it's among the best bass I've heard.

 I think the Mk II ranks in the top three in basically every category I can think of, refinement, soundstage, headstage, imaging, details, tonal accuracy, tonal balance, extension, bass quality, bass quantity.

 If this post sounded like a rave, yeah, I guess it is._

 

Damn, damn, damn... I want mine now!!!!!


----------



## sango

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shame on you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Your raving about the SR-007MK2 compared to the SR-007 don't help at all. Cause I really like the all-black look, and try my best to stay clear of buying one...

 Great to see that you love them though._

 

X2..
 I've just bought the MKI and the 4070 and already want the MKII. Head-fi is not treating my wallet very nice..


----------



## smeggy

Damn, this thread had a sudden spurt of activity. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Elephas, congrats on the MkII ya lucky bastige. I still haven't seen or heard an Omega of any description yet and It's getting to be a bit miffing as I feel I'm missing out on some great sounds. Not that I can afford them, I'd still like a listen at some stage before I croak


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 No! My SRM-007t and SRM-1/MK2 have this dual volume knob. While my previous SRM-001 did not.
 The same goes for the SRM-252II, SRM-310, and probably more. 
 

I believe the Sr-212 has also a single volume knob
 Personally I love the dual knob's and you don't have to use the dual function (I just had a look; I did not realize the SRM-1/MK2 had a dual knob)


----------



## HDen

related to amps, anyone here know anything about McAlister Audio EA-1/4?

McAlister Audio - Vacuum tube power amplifiers, High End Audio, Tube Amps (scroll to end)

 They're much cheaper than other amps, but are they as good? There's also an EA-6 coming up.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_related to amps, anyone here know anything about McAlister Audio EA-1/4?

McAlister Audio - Vacuum tube power amplifiers, High End Audio, Tube Amps (scroll to end)

 They're much cheaper than other amps, but are they as good? There's also an EA-6 coming up._

 

Some of us have them and have had no problems. Some have obtained and returned them because of problems.

 Build quality is generally reported as poor - they're definitely not at Woo Audio standards, for instance. Sound quality has had various reports.

 EA-1 and EA-4 are standard McAllister production amps whereas the only EA-6 reported here was a one-off (as were the EA-5 and other missing numbers)

 Those that have had firsthand knowledge of the EA-6 would not recommend it. For instance, those that have seen the insides of an EA-6 indicate it was poorly constructed (in their opinion) inside as well as outside.

 Peter indicates he's got an improved EA-8 model almost ready to run but still only shows the EA-1 and EA-4 on the website.

 Images of the EA-8 show an improvement in the external build quality and Peter reports similar improvements internally.

 I've had an EA-4 for some time and it is IMHO just behind the Woo GES with standard tubes (in sound quality). I've tuberolled the Woo to step it further ahead but am yet to do the same with the EA-4 to see what it can do.

 The advantage of the Woo for me is the build and sound quality but the limitation is only two outlets (Stax Pro and HE90).

 The advantage of the EA-4 for me is price and numerous outlets (that can run concurrently - great for meets) but the limitation is external build quality (I've never 'lifted the hood' to see inside quality but the SQ is good on mine so I've had no reason to).

 Overall, I'd suggest you try and see if there is a HeadFi McAllister owner close enough to you for you to check it out yourself. Although there are more negative than positive perceptions of McAllister amps here on HeadFi I can state that the EA-4 I have was more than worth the money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (I had an unmodded Stax SRM-T1 prior to it and, although the Stax was smaller and better built, it didn't deliver the SQ the McAllister has).


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've always liked the Mk I's precision imaging and ultra-clear separation. Each note and sound source is so distinct that I don't mind its relatively small headstage as much. But the Mk II seems to me to have a bigger headstage than the Mk I, and, incredibly, even better imaging and separation. It is so precise and clear that I think the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60 and 4070 all seem a bit muddy and blurry in comparison.

 Tonality seems close to perfect to me. Just very slightly dark, and very slightly brighter than the Mk I. Refinement to the max. Bass quality and quantity is near L3000 level, which basically means it's among the best bass I've heard._

 

Interesting impressions, and I agree on better bass and being slightly brighter than Mk1. However, I found that while sound stage was somewhat wider, imaging precision was in fact reduced and there also was an annoying midrange coloration, particularly on male vocals.

 I suspect that our disagreement is likely due to the differences in back - end equipment.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting impressions, and I agree on better bass and being slightly brighter than Mk1. However, I found that while sound stage was somewhat wider, imaging precision was in fact reduced and there also was an annoying midrange coloration, particularly on male vocals.

 I suspect that our disagreement is likely due to the differences in back - end equipment._

 

Funny, My mk1 has a more open top end and a deeper punchier bass. My mk2 is tighter in the midbass but dosn't seem to go as deep and seems more rolled off on top. This is also confirmed by the Stax importer in the USA. My mk2 has more than 400 hours on them. I'm driving them with a SRM-717. I love the Sheepskin earpads on the mk2. This is also my second set of mk2. My first mk2 was from the first production run and was horrible. Search this thread for my full mk2 story.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe Justin has indicated he will be bringing a BHSE and SR-007 MkII to CanJam. The lucky people who will hear that system better hang on to their wallets. I would feel confident betting on that system vs. any single-ended dynamic system._


----------



## indikator

even better than R10? you got R10 right, Elephas?
 how is the comparison?

 also how the Hawaii compare to ES-2?


----------



## Elephas

The difference I'm talking about between the SR-007 Mk1 and Mk2 isn't large. The main difference between them is supposedly only the earpads, after all. But I believe the differences I'm hearing are there.

 Unlike most other headphones, including other Stax, both the SR-007 Mk1 and Mk2 have fixed housings that do not swivel. This means the left and right driver housings stay parallel to each other, with only very slight allowable swiveling movement. This makes the clamping force and angle and shape of the earpads very critical in terms of a flush fit and seal against the sides of your head.

 I think this is the main reason why the Mk1 and Mk2 sound a bit different. Clamping force and firmness of the earpads are probably also factors. I noticed that my Mk1 has less clamping force and the stuffing inside its earpads are less firm. Spritzer has talked about the wear of the Mk1 earpads affecting its sound. Also, the Mk2 headband exerts greater pressure on the top of my head than the Mk1.

 Before, I considered the SR-007 Mk1, SR-Omega and HE90 my three favorites. I ranked them roughly equivalent, with each doing some things better and worse than the other two. But now the Mk2 is mixing things up. It seems to address what I perceived as the weaknesses of the Mk1, primarily an overly dark sound and a smallish headstage. That's about it, the SR-007 Mk1 has very few weaknesses. The Mk2's improvement over the Mk1 is very slight, true, but even one extra point (out of 1000) means it is in the lead.

 System:
 Esoteric P-05/D-05/G-03x
 HeadAmp Aristaeus with Sylvania ECC83 and Siemens ECL86
 Isotek Sigmas power conditioner

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_even better than R10? you got R10 right, Elephas?_

 

Yes, R10, Qualia, L3000, W5000 and other dynamics driven by the Zana Deux.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 <snip>

 Before, I considered the SR-007 Mk1, SR-Omega and HE90 my three favorites. I ranked them roughly equivalent, with each doing some things better and worse than the other two. But now the Mk2 is mixing things up. It seems to address what I perceived as the weaknesses of the Mk1, primarily an overly dark sound and a smallish headstage. 

 Esoteric P-05/D-05/G-03x
 HeadAmp Aristaeus with Sylvania ECC83 and Siemens ECL86
 Isotek Sigmas power conditioner


 Yes, R10, Qualia, L3000, W5000 and other dynamics driven by the Zana Deux._

 

How does W5000 compare to your stats? Does it do anything better than your Lambdas?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference I'm talking about between the SR-007 Mk1 and Mk2 isn't large. The main difference between them is supposedly only the earpads, after all. But I believe the differences I'm hearing are there.

 Unlike most other headphones, including other Stax, both the SR-007 Mk1 and Mk2 have fixed housings that do not swivel. This means the left and right driver housings stay parallel to each other, with only very slight allowable swiveling movement. This makes the clamping force and angle and shape of the earpads very critical in terms of a flush fit and seal against the sides of your head.

 I think this is the main reason why the Mk1 and Mk2 sound a bit different. Clamping force and firmness of the earpads are probably also factors. I noticed that my Mk1 has less clamping force and the stuffing inside its earpads are less firm. Spritzer has talked about the wear of the Mk1 earpads affecting its sound. Also, the Mk2 headband exerts greater pressure on the top of my head than the Mk1.

 Before, I considered the SR-007 Mk1, SR-Omega and HE90 my three favorites. I ranked them roughly equivalent, with each doing some things better and worse than the other two. But now the Mk2 is mixing things up. It seems to address what I perceived as the weaknesses of the Mk1, primarily an overly dark sound and a smallish headstage. That's about it, the SR-007 Mk1 has very few weaknesses. The Mk2's improvement over the Mk1 is very slight, true, but even one extra point (out of 1000) means it is in the lead.

 System:
 Esoteric P-05/D-05/G-03x
 HeadAmp Aristaeus with Sylvania ECC83 and Siemens ECL86
 Isotek Sigmas power conditioner_

 

Did you buy the Mk1 new or was it used? If the earpads have lost that slight firmness then they need to be replaced as they do more harm then good. 

 My SR-007A is in customs now and I should have it on Monday evening so I can start comparing the two. I will how ever start with bending the metal arcs to the right angle so the impressions might differ.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you buy the Mk1 new or was it used? If the earpads have lost that slight firmness then they need to be replaced as they do more harm then good. 

 My SR-007A is in customs now and I should have it on Monday evening so I can start comparing the two. I will how ever start with bending the metal arcs to the right angle so the impressions might differ._

 

I can't wait to hear your comparison! I listen and listen and I still like the mk1 better. I've had 4 different mk1's and all were a little different. The ones I have now are (by far) the best. They are a late model SR-007BL.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007A is in customs now and I should have it on Monday evening so I can start comparing the two. I will how ever start with bending the metal arcs to the right angle so the impressions might differ._

 

Can't wait to head what you think of the SR-007A, compared to the SR-007.
 ..and I am sure you will let us know.


----------



## tk3

Elephas,

 Are the pads on your SR-007A symmetrically aligned on the housing?
 I noticed that on mine they are not.
 When both cables are at the 6 o clock position, the right pad is a straight D shape, but the left side is rotated slightly forward, making it more like a _D_.

 Is this normal, or a manufacturing defect?
 It doesn't affect the sound, but I'm curious about it.
 I bought it brand new from EIFL.


----------



## justin w.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Elephas,

 Are the pads on your SR-007A symmetrically aligned on the housing?
 I noticed that on mine they are not.
 When both cables are at the 6 o clock position, the right pad is a straight D shape, but the left side is rotated slightly forward, making it more like a D.

 Is this normal, or a manufacturing defect?
 It doesn't affect the sound, but I'm curious about it.
 I bought it brand new from EIFL._

 

The pads and housing can be independently rotated


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't wait to hear your comparison! I listen and listen and I still like the mk1 better. I've had 4 different mk1's and all were a little different. The ones I have now are (by far) the best. They are a late model SR-007BL._

 

I've bought 4 or 5 sets over the years for people interested and they all sounded pretty much the same though I didn't run them in for any period of time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't wait to head what you think of the SR-007A, compared to the SR-007.
 ..and I am sure you will let us know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I will but I'm having some issues with the new CDP so any full scale impressions might have to wait. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Elephas,

 Are the pads on your SR-007A symmetrically aligned on the housing?
 I noticed that on mine they are not.
 When both cables are at the 6 o clock position, the right pad is a straight D shape, but the left side is rotated slightly forward, making it more like a D.

 Is this normal, or a manufacturing defect?
 It doesn't affect the sound, but I'm curious about it.
 I bought it brand new from EIFL._

 

The pads are designed to rotate to make up for the unique arc design so you can rotate them for a better fit. 

 Btw. Does anybody have scans of the MkII instructions manual for those of us with an "A" model? I got the Mk1 manual from Stax but I doubt they will be as forthcoming now...


----------



## tk3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pads are designed to rotate to make up for the unique arc design so you can rotate them for a better fit. _

 

Yeah, I noticed that you can rotate them.
 It's just that the "D" shape of the pads on the inside are not at the same position when both the L / R cables are straight down at the 6 o clock position.

 Does this mean the pad is mounted on the housing faultily, or is this normal?

 Edit: I'm dumb, I just noticed you can rotate the actual pads, that's what you mean. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I was rotating the housing itself, hehe.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tk3* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I noticed that you can rotate them.
 It's just that the "D" shape of the pads on the inside are not at the same position when both the L / R cables are straight down at the 6 o clock position.

 Does this mean the pad is mounted on the housing faultily, or is this normal?

 Edit: I'm dumb, I just noticed you can rotate the actual pads, that's what you mean. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I was rotating the housing itself, hehe._

 

I should have been more clear but you've got it.


----------



## Elephas

That's what I was complaining about before, the way the earpads and outer ring rotate independently. They are looser and spin around more easily on the Mk1 than the Mk2, and every time I put on the Mk1 I have to (really NEED to!) align its earpads and the outer rings. Blasted OCDness. That's four separate repetitive, tedious moves, and time wasted.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does W5000 compare to your stats? Does it do anything better than your Lambdas?_

 

I think the W5000 is competitive with the Lambda Pro, Airbow SR-SC1 and 4070. Maybe you can send me a PM or start a thread so we don't clutter this one.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you buy the Mk1 new or was it used? If the earpads have lost that slight firmness then they need to be replaced as they do more harm then good._

 

I bought the Mk1 used around May 2007 and it seemed very new then. Hmm, it's been a year already, though. I'm going to order new Mk1 earpads and will also try fitting the Mk2 earpads on the Mk1.


----------



## Elephas

SR-007 MkII user manual (click thumbnails to view)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought the Mk1 used around May 2007 and it seemed very new then. Hmm, it's been a year already, though. I'm going to order new Mk1 earpads and will also try fitting the Mk2 earpads on the Mk1._

 

New earpads aren't _that_ expensive so it's worth it to try. Be prepared to curse the phones and earpads a bit during the installation... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the pics of the manual.


----------



## catscratch

So, it seems to me that there are different production runs of the O2 MkII? And very noticeable difference in SQ between each pair? Elephas, if it's not a secret, where did you purchase your pair and when? (PM me if you don't want to make it public).

 I'm asking since I will be purchasing one next week. I've finally decided to give myself a little graduation present. Signal path will be 840c --> Headphile silver ICs --> Dared VP-20/SRD-7 pro bias --> O2 MkII. I've got a SRM-313 and McAlister to mess around with, and of course if none of it works out, I'll see about a KGSS and/or BH when money permits. Probably sometime next fall.

 I've been thinking of Moon Audio as a potential seller since with the falling dollar there's no point in buying from grey market importers anymore.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Check Audiogon as well - that's where I got my pair. You get the full US warranty and also priced very competitively (at least when I purchased from him). I can PM you the dealer if you're interested.


----------



## krmathis

Like 'catscratch' I would like to know a relative cheap source of SR-007 MK2's as well.

 The norwegian price is $4200 (NOK 21879), which is just insane. Especially considering that the SR-007A can be had from Japan for ~$1800.


----------



## westmalle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like 'catscratch' I would like to know a relative cheap source of SR-007 MK2's as well.

 The norwegian price is $4200 (NOK 21879), which is just insane. Especially considering that the SR-007A can be had from Japan for ~$1800._

 


 SO , it seems you need to buy the amplifier in Europe, and ask some friend that travels to Japan to bring the headphone.

 I have a friend that goes to Japan twice a year.
 Is there any risk to bring it to Europe, I mean that they can charge extra taxes!?

 my Stax RS-2050II costs incl. VAT €799,00 = $1252.
 Tuesday I will have it !!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *westmalle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SO , it seems you need to buy the amplifier in Europe, and ask some friend that travels to Japan to bring the headphone._

 

The SR-007 MK2 are not available in Japan (only the SR-007A afaik). Or else I would just ordered it myself, like I did with the 4070.
 I already have two amplifiers, and three energizers. So thats a non-issue.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *westmalle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a friend that goes to Japan twice a year.
 Is there any risk to bring it to Europe, I mean that they can charge extra taxes!?

 my Stax RS-2050II costs incl. VAT €799,00 = $1252.
 Tuesday I will have it !!!_

 

There might be VAT added.
 Depending on the items value and the country you import the items into. In Norway we are allowed to bring with us items valued up to NOK 6000 (~USD 1200) when crossing the border, without paying any VAT.

 Congratulations with the SR-2050II.
 Notice that the SR-2050A system can be had for €321 from PriceJapan. Plus shipping and VAT that is.


----------



## Saltuk

Hi ,
 first good news; As some of you might remember I previously damaged my srm-252A while trying to power it with battery, it is fixed now and driving my 202 beautifully.

 I found a SRM-1/MK2 normal bias on an auction site , I have two questions. 
 As it is normal bias, will it drive my 202s atleast as good as my 252s.
 And it is labeled as A series and there is a plastic cover screwed on the voltage selector switch, does it mean that I need to mod the internal wiring to run if off 230/240V as Bilgir did? 

 Do you recommend me to get it for the SR-202s ?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi ,
 first good news; As some of you might remember I previously damaged my srm-252A while trying to power it with battery, it is fixed now and driving my 202 beautifully.

 I found a SRM-1/MK2 normal bias on an auction site , I have two questions. 
 As it is normal bias, will it drive my 202s atleast as good as my 252s.
 And it is labeled as A series and there is a plastic cover screwed on the voltage selector switch, does it mean that I need to mod the internal wiring to run if off 230/240V as Bilgir did? 

 Do you recommend me to get it for the SR-202s ?_

 

Great to see that you have gotten your SRM-252A running again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now on to the questions.
 The SRM-1/MK2 _might_ drive your SR-202 on par with the SRM-252A. Meaning that you will lack out some because of the lower bias voltage, but gain some because of the larger and more powerful construction.
 I bet you can remove the plastic cover and just move the jumper behind it to change its accepted input voltage. Thats what I did on my B-series SRM-1/MK2 Pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, it seems to me that there are different production runs of the O2 MkII? And very noticeable difference in SQ between each pair? Elephas, if it's not a secret, where did you purchase your pair and when? (PM me if you don't want to make it public).

 I'm asking since I will be purchasing one next week. I've finally decided to give myself a little graduation present. Signal path will be 840c --> Headphile silver ICs --> Dared VP-20/SRD-7 pro bias --> O2 MkII. I've got a SRM-313 and McAlister to mess around with, and of course if none of it works out, I'll see about a KGSS and/or BH when money permits. Probably sometime next fall.

 I've been thinking of Moon Audio as a potential seller since with the falling dollar there's no point in buying from grey market importers anymore._

 

You have to factor in the special arc assembly on the SR-007 phones as the sound will change dramatically from one individual to the other unless the phones are adjusted. That includes both the earpad position and the angle of attack for the drivers which is governed by the curvature of the arc. 

 The new amps can be changed to any input voltage as the transformers still use dual 0,100,117v primaries but it's harder to do. Stepdown transformers aren't all that bad and can even be an improvement by providing galvanic isolation from all the noise and crap that is on the AC lines today.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi ,
 first good news; As some of you might remember I previously damaged my srm-252A while trying to power it with battery, it is fixed now and driving my 202 beautifully.

 I found a SRM-1/MK2 normal bias on an auction site , I have two questions.
 As it is normal bias, will it drive my 202s atleast as good as my 252s.
 And it is labeled as A series and there is a plastic cover screwed on the voltage selector switch, does it mean that I need to mod the internal wiring to run if off 230/240V as Bilgir did?

 Do you recommend me to get it for the SR-202s ?_

 

Driving a Pro headphone from a normal socket is possible but the sound is much softer and lacks impact. If you are handy with electronics then you can add a Pro bias supply but the 600v scare some. 

 You simply remove the screw and cover, remove the jumper and insert it with the arrow pointing to the desired voltage.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the Blue Hawaii drives the SR-007 I and II better than the Aristaeus, which I assume is true, I think I can safely say that the MkII is arguably the best-sounding electrostatic headphone. Yes, better than the SR-Omega or HE90.

 I'm on the list for a Blue Hawaii SE and am also waiting for an SP ES-1. I believe Justin has indicated he will be bringing a BHSE and SR-007 MkII to CanJam. The lucky people who will hear that system better hang on to their wallets. I would feel confident betting on that system vs. any single-ended dynamic system.

 I've always liked the Mk I's precision imaging and ultra-clear separation. Each note and sound source is so distinct that I don't mind its relatively small headstage as much. But the Mk II seems to me to have a bigger headstage than the Mk I, and, incredibly, even better imaging and separation. It is so precise and clear that I think the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60 and 4070 all seem a bit muddy and blurry in comparison.

 Tonality seems close to perfect to me. Just very slightly dark, and very slightly brighter than the Mk I. Refinement to the max. Bass quality and quantity is near L3000 level, which basically means it's among the best bass I've heard.

 I think the Mk II ranks in the top three in basically every category I can think of, refinement, soundstage, headstage, imaging, details, tonal accuracy, tonal balance, extension, bass quality, bass quantity.

 If this post sounded like a rave, yeah, I guess it is._

 

I appreciate the comparison between the two SR-007 versions.


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like 'catscratch' I would like to know a relative cheap source of SR-007 MK2's as well.

 The norwegian price is $4200 (NOK 21879), which is just insane. Especially considering that the SR-007A can be had from Japan for ~$1800._

 

I'm also interested in this, the cheapest Mk2 I've found goes for $2,409.99. However the 007A is much cheaper, if there isn't a cheaper Mk2, I'm not sure if the price difference will be worth it.


----------



## milkpowder

FOTM! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Probably won't sell 20k+ like the K701 though
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Imagine if they did: Stax would be loaded and they'll resurrect the T2, start building amps, DACs and speakers again.


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks for the informations, I think I can find some help for the bias change. I met with some diyers locally (they helped me to resurrect the 252) I am sure they will be able to handle it.


----------



## Elephas

My Top 5 headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Notice which one is on its "throne" while the other four pay homage.


----------



## tk3

Wow, that colour scheme looks awesome.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm also interested in this, the cheapest Mk2 I've found goes for $2,409.99. However the 007A is much cheaper, if there isn't a cheaper Mk2, I'm not sure if the price difference will be worth it._

 

Yes, thats what I found as well. $2410 from both Moon Audio and TTVJ.
Moon Audio -> Stax
TTVJ, Todd The Vinyl Junkie -> Stax SR-007MK2

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FOTM! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Probably won't sell 20k+ like the K701 though
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Imagine if they did: Stax would be loaded and they'll resurrect the T2, start building amps, DACs and speakers again._

 

I still dream about an SRM-T2 successor. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But think that it will never happen, as the current Stax company care more about revenue than the old one. But we can also hope...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Top 5 headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Notice which one is on its "throne" while the other four pay homage. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y10...tatic/Top5.jpg_

 

Oh my, oh my! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You certainly have an electrostatic collection to envy.


----------



## spritzer

Why does one of the SR-Ω have a non stock headband!!!??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The mafia will not be happy about this...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi ,
 first good news; As some of you might remember I previously damaged my srm-252A while trying to power it with battery, it is fixed now and driving my 202 beautifully.

 I found a SRM-1/MK2 normal bias on an auction site , I have two questions. 
 As it is normal bias, will it drive my 202s atleast as good as my 252s.
 And it is labeled as A series and there is a plastic cover screwed on the voltage selector switch, does it mean that I need to mod the internal wiring to run if off 230/240V as Bilgir did? 

 Do you recommend me to get it for the SR-202s ?_

 

I tried running my Sigma Pro and Lambda Signature off a normal bias SRM-1/MK-2. The Sigma Pro really needed a better Pro bias amp (KGSS) but the Lambda Signature sounded nice on the normal bias amp and in some ways better than the SR-Lambda.

 Edit: The Sigma Pros are the only Stax I have now and I'm currently ampless so the Sigmas just sit in a box now.


----------



## Elephas

Heh, I thought some eagle-eyed SR-Omega owners might notice, but it's the Wartime Consigliere!

 It's actually a new SR-Omega headband assembly that came with a black headband. Yes, it has the SR-Omega stickers. I complained to the Stax distributor that one of my SR-Omega's plastic headbands was looser and more flexible than the other. I also asked for spare cloth headbands and they gave me two more black ones, so Stax probably doesn't have any more brown headbands. The NOS brown headbands are going to be in demand.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my, oh my! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You certainly have an electrostatic collection to envy._

 

I actually have more dynamics, but shh! Please don't tell the Wartime Consigliere.

 I don't think anybody needs more than a few headphones. OK, maybe around 8 or 9 is good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And if you want the one I like the most, you only need one. But make sure your source is good!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I thought some eagle-eyed SR-Omega owners might notice, but it's the Wartime Consigliere!

 It's actually a new SR-Omega headband assembly that came with a black headband. Yes, it has the SR-Omega stickers. I complained to the Stax distributor that one of my SR-Omega's plastic headbands was looser and more flexible than the other. I also asked for spare cloth headbands and they gave me two more black ones, so Stax probably doesn't have any more brown headbands. The NOS brown headbands are going to be in demand._

 

So they still have some more assemblies left with the Ω markings? That's pretty cool though they are easy to move from headband to headband. 

 The brown headbands have been out of production since 1994 so they were bound to run out. You could find a Lambda Signature and replace and store the brown headband though they last for a very long time with proper handling. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually have more dynamics, but shh! Please don't tell the Wartime Consigliere.

 I don't think anybody needs more than a few headphones. OK, maybe around 8 or 9 is good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And if you want the one I like the most, you only need one. But make sure your source is good! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think 10 is the magic number and that includes test phones for amp building i.e. the SR-003. You still need to have a few Lambdas, Sigmas, the Koss ESP950, Gamma Pro, SR-X Mk3 etc. to have a presentable collection...


----------



## bizkid

Sooo... is there any reason to go for an 007mkII (as an import) instead of the 007A besides the color?
 US customers ofcourse enjoy the warranty, but if you import, it wont matter if you have to send it over to japan or the US if something happens to the headphone.
 Did i miss something inbetween this long long thread?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bizkid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sooo... is there any reason to go for an 007mkII (as an import) instead of the 007A besides the color?_

 

I don't think so.
 Cause afaik the only difference between the SR-007MK2 and SR-007A are the color of the housing. Black vs. silver.

 I personally prefer the all-black look of the SR-007MK2. Perhaps because its more different from my SR-007BL than the SR-007A? Hmm...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think 10 is the magic number and that includes test phones for amp building i.e. the SR-003. You still need to have a few Lambdas, Sigmas, the Koss ESP950, Gamma Pro, SR-X Mk3 etc. to have a presentable collection... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

5 is the magic number. One of each driver tech. SR-007, AMT, H2, K1000, T50. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Special bonus for having the plasmasonics.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_5 is the magic number. One of each driver tech. SR-007, AMT, H2, K1000, T50. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Special bonus for having the plasmasonics._

 

The K1000 did nothing for my but I'd like to try the AMT one of these days. I think I'll stick with my small army of Stax phones.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_5 is the magic number. One of each driver tech. SR-007, AMT, H2, K1000, T50. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Special bonus for having the plasmasonics._

 

There is something poetic about the idea, but then what about armatures?

 I don't have an ideal set by any means, but I'm pretty pleased for the moment with crossing grandness and wonky rarity: SR-Lambda and PMB500; SR-X and Superex PEP-74; Pro 30 and HOK80-2, YH-100 and-- oh well, got to fill that gap. And as always I'm on the lookout for a YH-5M to counter my im716.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K1000 did nothing for my but I'd like to try the AMT one of these days. I think I'll stick with my small army of Stax phones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Have you got a good speaker amp among your mountain of gear? I'd be happy to lend mine to you.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is something poetic about the idea, but then what about armatures?

 I don't have an ideal set by any means, but I'm pretty pleased for the moment with crossing grandness and wonky rarity: SR-Lambda and PMB500; SR-X and Superex PEP-74; Pro 30 and HOK80-2, YH-100 and-- oh well, got to fill that gap. And as always I'm on the lookout for a YH-5M to counter my im716._

 

Ah yes, got to throw an IEM with armatures into the mix, lets go for the Livewires. And yes, a YH-5M would be sweet.


----------



## bjarnetv

how about posting some pmb500 impressions facelvega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 i have been anxious to know how they stack up to the lambdas.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how about posting some pmb500 impressions facelvega? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 i have been anxious to know how they stack up to the lambdas._

 

Coming up. There is a power issue, though: the PMB self-biasing energizer hasn't got the guts to push them well at volume. So far very briefly I can say that the PMB500 is to the SR-Lambda what the Superex (or probably more accurately, the ET1000) is to the SR-X. But hey all you mafiosi, how do I measure bias voltage to find out if the PMB will be compatible with Stax after I build an adapter?


----------



## ueyteuor

just noticed my sr-lambda pro pads are stuck to the case.. like they were stickied on... is this normal? how do you replace the pads?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just noticed my sr-lambda pro pads are stuck to the case.. like they were stickied on... is this normal? how do you replace the pads?_

 

They are mounted using double sided tape.
 The replacement pads comes with new tape. So rip off the old pads, clean off any residue and mount the new ones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you got a good speaker amp among your mountain of gear? I'd be happy to lend mine to you._

 

I have a few OK ones but nothing great... yet... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll definately have to take you up on that offer when I have the amps sorted and some Quad ESL57's here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coming up. There is a power issue, though: the PMB self-biasing energizer hasn't got the guts to push them well at volume. So far very briefly I can say that the PMB500 is to the SR-Lambda what the Superex (or probably more accurately, the ET1000) is to the SR-X. But hey all you mafiosi, how do I measure bias voltage to find out if the PMB will be compatible with Stax after I build an adapter?_

 

I seriously doubt that it will be compatible but stranger things have happened. You need to measure before the bleed resistor to any ground you can find. If there is a center tap on the transformers (should be unless they are SE) you can try it first or the return of the ladder network.


----------



## Duggeh

What amplification are you looking at for the 57s Spritzer? Quad IIs? Pass Labs/Firstwatt? Airtight?

 Then again you being the juddering loon you are, you're probably looking at some sort of esoteric direct drive option


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What amplification are you looking at for the 57s Spritzer? Quad IIs? Pass Labs/Firstwatt? Airtight?

 Then again you being the juddering loon you are, you're probably looking at some sort of esoteric direct drive option 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I heard 57s with my McCormack Power Drive DNA-1 and they were impressive, not my cup of team but very interesting. Pass amps are great as well, but you need a big Aleph amp for 57s, something like the large 100W one. The funny things is the Aleph O sounds the best of all of them, sweet 25W in class A.


----------



## Duggeh

I was under the impression that the opposite was true, that you don't need big wattages for the 57. The Quad II classic is only 14 or 15 watts isnt it? The important factor is to have an amp that can swing around a fluctuating impedance load that tries to suck down past 2ohms.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was under the impression that the opposite was true, that you don't need big wattages for the 57. The Quad II classic is only 14 or 15 watts isnt it? The important factor is to have an amp that can swing around a fluctuating impedance load that tries to suck down past 2ohms._

 

Well you don't need a monster power amp but you need an amp that can be stable down to 1ohm and has a lot of power reserves for dynamic peaks. They are 25W and 100W will be an overkill but it's nice to have the power reserve. Tube amps are a different thing all together a nice Dynaco ST-70 schematic amp will drive them just fine.

 P.S. By the way the best amps I heard with 57s were Mark Levinson ML-2s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What amplification are you looking at for the 57s Spritzer? Quad IIs? Pass Labs/Firstwatt? Airtight?

 Then again you being the juddering loon you are, you're probably looking at some sort of esoteric direct drive option 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I wouldn't even consider Airtight as the parts quality is horrible for the price. Very good iron though but modding a new amp is out of the question. If I find a set of Quad II's cheap then I'll jump on them even if I have to rebuild them from scratch. 

 Some high power SET's would be nice but the quality of the stuff available is horrible unless you are fast approaching 100k$. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well you don't need a monster power amp but you need an amp that can be stable down to 1ohm and has a lot of power reserves for dynamic peaks. They are 25W and 100W will be an overkill but it's nice to have the power reserve. Tube amps are a different thing all together a nice Dynaco ST-70 schematic amp will drive them just fine.

 P.S. By the way the best amps I heard with 57s were Mark Levinson ML-2s. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The amp has to be able to handle the reactive load rather then a resistive one and tube amps excel at this. Huge Class A sand amps are also very good but why settle for second best...


----------



## Duggeh

Its a fairly long time away, but when it comes time for me to put down for a set of 57s, I know that I'll get wallet pull toward the Precide Kithara too.

 I do love the idle long term dreaming of this hobby.


----------



## milezone

Is there anyone here who could compare their experiences with the Omega 2s vs the Edition 9s. I am about to upgrade my amp (to probably a Balanced Beta 22) and maybe a firstwatt F1 with a pair of K1000s. Part of me wants to abandon dynamics all together and build a nice ES rig. I have steered away from electrostatics in the past because I prefer musicality and the headphones ability to attach me to the music on an emotional level over being awed by the detail, natural presentation a headphone can produce. My fear is that in order to achieve this "soulfulness" that everybody says Stax lacks from a pair of OIIs would require a very nice preamp to complement the energizer. If this is the case perhaps I could pick up a nice dynamic amp now (Beta22, Extreme Platinum, Zana, Cary300B, etc.) and later go ES and use this as my preamp when I decide to do so. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milezone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there anyone here who could compare their experiences with the Omega 2s vs the Edition 9s. I am about to upgrade my amp (to probably a Balanced Beta 22) and maybe a firstwatt F1 with a pair of K1000s. Part of me wants to abandon dynamics all together and build a nice ES rig. I have steered away from electrostatics in the past because I prefer musicality and the headphones ability to attach me to the music on an emotional level over being awed by the detail, natural presentation a headphone can produce. My fear is that in order to achieve this "soulfulness" that everybody says Stax lacks from a pair of OIIs would require a very nice preamp to complement the energizer. If this is the case perhaps I could pick up a nice dynamic amp now (Beta22, Extreme Platinum, Zana, Cary300B, etc.) and later go ES and use this as my preamp when I decide to do so. Please share your thoughts. Thank you._

 

Those are all very different headphones. The ED9 has a pounding bass. The K1000s have increadable imaging. The Omega II is very intimate. "Musicality" is a useless term, only you know what connects you to your music. My KSC-35 are musical.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 The amp has to be able to handle the reactive load rather then a resistive one and tube amps excel at this. Huge Class A sand amps are also very good but why settle for second best... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well yeah, but good SET amps are huge, expensive and require a ton of care. Not an optimal solution for me or anyone who has a kid as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But for a young single guy like you it a no compromise solution, go for it if you have around 20k to blow


----------



## milezone

I disagree with your statement plaidplatypus that "'Musicallity' is a useless term only you know what connects you to your music." In the five years I have been poking around this place I have come across an endless number of unproductive comments like these (or 'we all have different ears') littering the threads of this forum. Despite serving no purpose whatsoever, they are an obvious example of how certain people here are so blinded by obsessive audiophillic desire achieve a certain specific characteristic through their equipment that they lose site of its greater purpose, that being the enjoyment of music (we all do this or we wouldn't be part of this forum). This is not to say that there is one universal preference (although I do think there is a universal taste outside of the context of art, but thats a different argument altogether) -- while one person may a prefer detailed accurate presentation at the sacrifice musicality, warmth, magic (or whatever word you desire to use to describe that emotional attachment to the music that certain phones enable the listener to achieve), another person may prefer a soulful listening experience at the sacrifice of neutrality. Ultimately these preferences do exist, and as I explained, I prefer a soulful attachment to the music which I would describe as musicality.
 And now for the abrupt conclusion... this term musicality is very real. Seeing as I'm writing in the stax megathread I'll use an example other than electrostatic phones to try to prove my point. I think most would agree that the AKG K701s aren't as MUSICAL (as understood here, an embodiment of those sonic elements that enable us as listeners to become emotionally engaged in the music) as the RS1s. Yet despite this they are more detailed and have a far better soundstage, and are more natural than the RS1s (but lack musicality). If you prefer to be awed by the amount of detail your headphones can reproduce, pick the 701s; or if you like moved by the musicality of your headphones, pick the RS1s. Ideally (I think) everyone would like both).
 Ultimately I believe there is a sound that is universally the best; one that is natural, musical, detailed, magical, emotionally engaging, etc. Though I've never heard them, perhaps the R10s and HE90s may come closest to achieving this given the almost unanimous agreement that these are at the top. Given that we can't achieve that sound, or don't have $13,000 to come close, we are forced to prioritize certain qualities over others (based on our preferences) at the sacrifice of certain qualities we prefer less. While all of this is fairly obvious, where this becomes a true annoyance (and happens all the time here) is when someone who owns a pair of K701s (referring to my example) and loves them for their soundstage (over the RS1s lack of soundstage), claims that they are more musical than the RS1s simply because they own them and enjoy them more (because their preference lies in detail over warmth and 'magic')...
 Now to help you with a more precise wording of my previous post, from what I've read, the OIIs lack this magic which I love so dearly (unless you splurge on a monster preamp). Can I achieve this aforementioned musicality (that certain dynamic cans achieve so naturally) with a pair of OIIs without a splurging on a preamp?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coming up..._

 

Listening now for the last couple of hours, comparing the PMB500 back and forth with the SR-Lambda and SR-X mkIII with various music, I can make a few comments. First, with a little extra use, the limitations of the PMB energizer are not so painful, they do make loud sessions with music that demands large instantaneous draw impossible, but I only really listen like that when I'm testing gear, so it isn't a big concern. Yet I still wonder how much that energizer is holding back the 500 in other ways less immediately audible.

 As for performance, I think I can at least safely say the PMB500 is better than the SR-X and not so good as the SR-Lambda, particularly when it comes to frequency extension. The PMB has a character unlike either Stax, more forward and intimate, warmer with sweeter mids. It is better for most rock, say, than either Stax. It lacks the lower end of the Lambda, with a bass weight only comparable to that of the SR-X and never capable of the lush fullness that the Lambda can give. Treble on the PMB500 is a bit recessed, and sounds much more like one of the Stax if I add a few notches of treble EQ. (Before I tried the EQ I thought it was rolled off, but it isn't, it's all there) Soundstage is quite good, but oddly unlike the Lambda's, capable not only of distance but also closeness, though probably not as broad as the Lambda in absolute terms. Also, the PMB seems to be less fatiguing than the Lambda over the long haul.

 The PMB500 is very close to the Lambda in size. The Lambda earpieces are slightly narrower but also much thicker, and it's clear eyeballing it that the Lambda drivers are bigger than the PMB's, mostly in vertical length. The PMB cable is thin, one rubber sleeve that seems to be holding the wires loosely in a bunch. It's single-entry, with the right channel being carried over in the headband. The PMB is quite comfortable, though clamps slightly more than the other MB floats I've had, leaving it a notch less comfy than the Lambda but miles ahead of the SR-X. One technical annoyance, the PMB has a floating channel imbalance that sometimes shows itself after I've been listening for a while, but never when they're first on, making me once again suspect an energizer issue as this is the opposite of a normal stat imbalance symptom.

 hope this satisfies for those who wanted a report. I'll probably have more to say soon, and there's talk of a Brooklyn mini-meet soon, so you can hear some other impressions.

 edit for reference purposes: the PMB500 grows on me. With better amping, its bass response overtakes the SR-X and loses nothing much to the Lambda except maybe for some of the Lambda's "bloom." What first struck me as recessed treble now sounds like a more flat response than the Lambda. It's easily just as good as the Lambda, a really fine headphone. How must the PMB1000 sound?


----------



## spacemanspliff

stening now for the last couple of hours, comparing the PMB500 back and forth with the SR-Lambda and SR-X mkIII with various music, I can make a few comments. First, with a little extra use, the limitations of the PMB energizer are not so painful, they do make loud sessions with music that demands large instantaneous draw impossible, but I only really listen like that when I'm testing gear, so it isn't a big concern. Yet I still wonder how much that energizer is holding back the 500 in other ways less immediately audible.

 True. Especially with Beethoven's 9th. I am solving the issue though. 

 Going to direct wire the transformers on my SRD-7. The amp I am using is a weird old Sony. It can do stereo or mono for a sub. What does this mean? Don't know yet but I am hoping for some big time ballsy sound.

 Oh, and I am upgrading a Lite Dac AH. Further helping it alonng with a Trends Audio TD-10. 

 With this setup I PROMISE to attend at least one regional meet. I had one friends listen to them recently. He said the only thing lacking to him was the very low bass. This is referenced from Beethoven's 9th. Since he flat out pissed off every speaker dealer here with his auditions, I am pretty pleased with that. Just wait until I get the modding done!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening now for the last couple of hours, comparing the PMB500 back and forth with the SR-Lambda and SR-X mkIII with various music, I can make a few comments. First, with a little extra use, the limitations of the PMB energizer are not so painful, they do make loud sessions with music that demands large instantaneous draw impossible, but I only really listen like that when I'm testing gear, so it isn't a big concern. Yet I still wonder how much that energizer is holding back the 500 in other ways less immediately audible.

 As for performance, I think I can at least safely say the PMB500 is better than the SR-X and not so good as the SR-Lambda, particularly when it comes to frequency extension. The PMB has a character unlike either Stax, more forward and intimate, warmer with sweeter mids. It is better for most rock, say, than either Stax. It lacks the lower end of the Lambda, with a bass weight only comparable to that of the SR-X and never capable of the lush fullness that the Lambda can give. Treble on the PMB500 is a bit recessed, and sounds much more like one of the Stax if I add a few notches of treble EQ. (Before I tried the EQ I thought it was rolled off, but it isn't, it's all there) Soundstage is quite good, but oddly unlike the Lambda's, capable not only of distance but also closeness, though probably not as broad as the Lambda in absolute terms. Also, the PMB seems to be less fatiguing than the Lambda over the long haul.

 The PMB500 is very close to the Lambda in size. The Lambda earpieces are slightly narrower but also much thicker, and it's clear eyeballing it that the Lambda drivers are bigger than the PMB's, mostly in vertical length. The PMB cable is thin, one rubber sleeve that seems to be holding the wires loosely in a bunch. It's single-entry, with the right channel being carried over in the headband. The PMB is quite comfortable, though clamps slightly more than the other MB floats I've had, leaving it a notch less comfy than the Lambda but miles ahead of the SR-X. One technical annoyance, the PMB has a floating channel imbalance that sometimes shows itself after I've been listening for a while, but never when they're first on, making me once again suspect an energizer issue as this is the opposite of a normal stat imbalance symptom.

 hope this satisfies for those who wanted a report. I'll probably have more to say soon, and there's talk of a Brooklyn mini-meet soon, so you can hear some other impressions._

 

Very interesting. Did you try a different amp? Could it be that the transformer box does not like your amp? As usual it seem that Floats are giving a very interesting take at the stat game. Makes me want to hear them even more now. Especially the warmer with sweeter mids part. I will have now a whole bunch of headphones to compare it to: SR-303, Lambda, Sigma, Gamma, SR-001 and orthos as well. Should be a cool mini-meet


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milezone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree with your statement plaidplatypus that "'Musicallity' is a useless term only you know what connects you to your music." In the five years I have been poking around this place I have come across an endless number of unproductive comments like these (or 'we all have different ears') littering the threads of this forum. Despite serving no purpose whatsoever, they are an obvious example of how certain people here are so blinded by obsessive audiophillic desire achieve a certain specific characteristic through their equipment that they lose site of its greater purpose, that being the enjoyment of music (we all do this or we wouldn't be part of this forum). This is not to say that there is one universal preference (although I do think there is a universal taste outside of the context of art, but thats a different argument altogether) -- while one person may a prefer detailed accurate presentation at the sacrifice musicality, warmth, magic (or whatever word you desire to use to describe that emotional attachment to the music that certain phones enable the listener to achieve), another person may prefer a soulful listening experience at the sacrifice of neutrality. Ultimately these preferences do exist, and as I explained, I prefer a soulful attachment to the music which I would describe as musicality.
 And now for the abrupt conclusion... this term musicality is very real. Seeing as I'm writing in the stax megathread I'll use an example other than electrostatic phones to try to prove my point. I think most would agree that the AKG K701s aren't as MUSICAL (as understood here, an embodiment of those sonic elements that enable us as listeners to become emotionally engaged in the music) as the RS1s. Yet despite this they are more detailed and have a far better soundstage, and are more natural than the RS1s (but lack musicality). If you prefer to be awed by the amount of detail your headphones can reproduce, pick the 701s; or if you like moved by the musicality of your headphones, pick the RS1s. Ideally (I think) everyone would like both).
 Ultimately I believe there is a sound that is universally the best; one that is natural, musical, detailed, magical, emotionally engaging, etc. Though I've never heard them, perhaps the R10s and HE90s may come closest to achieving this given the almost unanimous agreement that these are at the top. Given that we can't achieve that sound, or don't have $13,000 to come close, we are forced to prioritize certain qualities over others (based on our preferences) at the sacrifice of certain qualities we prefer less. While all of this is fairly obvious, where this becomes a true annoyance (and happens all the time here) is when someone who owns a pair of K701s (referring to my example) and loves them for their soundstage (over the RS1s lack of soundstage), claims that they are more musical than the RS1s simply because they own them and enjoy them more (because their preference lies in detail over warmth and 'magic')...
 Now to help you with a more precise wording of my previous post, from what I've read, the OIIs lack this magic which I love so dearly (unless you splurge on a monster preamp). Can I achieve this aforementioned musicality (that certain dynamic cans achieve so naturally) with a pair of OIIs without a splurging on a preamp?_

 

I think everyone in the Stax thread can unanimously agree they like musical headphones. 

 I loved the SR-007 with the KGSS, I never even thought about buying a pre-amp.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very interesting. Did you try a different amp? Could it be that the transformer box does not like your amp? As usual it seem that Floats are giving a very interesting take at the stat game. Makes me want to hear them even more now. Especially the warmer with sweeter mids part. I will have now a whole bunch of headphones to compare it to: SR-303, Lambda, Sigma, Gamma, SR-001 and orthos as well. Should be a cool mini-meet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, haven't tried a different amp yet. All I've got around the house are a Sherwood S-7200 and S-7100 and a Yamaha CR-420. Right now they're on the S-7200, more powerful than the other Sherwood and more musical than the dry Yamaha. The energizer clipping has died down, either (as you suspected) after letting them charge up for some time or because I was actually listening to music and not just running through a series of demanding test tracks. 

 And though I mention the limitations of the PMB500, I wouldn't even notice them if I didn't have the Lambda. Up against the SR-X or my YH-100 ortho, they are aces: fuller-sounding, better bass, at least equal detail, and of course much better soundstage than those supraaurals.


----------



## erikzen

Not sure if I should post this here or start a new thread. Since this is the current "main" Stax thread and there seem to be multiple splinter threads, I'll post so as not to increase the number of threads, at least for now.

 I love my Stax setup. It's the first time I've had a headphone amp combo that I really thought did just about everything I could ask of it.

 Still, I'm hearing some limitations after a year or so of listening with the same system. Primarily I'm hearing some harshness or distortion in the treble during particularly hard driving hard rock sections. For example, on the Rage Against the Machine track Bombtrack, the symbols do not seem as clean as I would like during the "Burn, burn, yes, ya gonna burn" section. Admittedly, this is a very loud, hard rock track, with lots of musical information and would probably be a challenge for any headphone. There are other times when I find cymbals to be a little harsh when they are hit particularly hard in the recording (or at least that's what it sounds like). 

 The question is, where is that high end harshness coming from, headphones, amp, source, interconnects, or my CDs, and what can I do to tame it a little bit without sacrificing any of the detail? The ICs are the Golden Raincoats that came with some of the Esound players that I ended up with through some kind of sale or trade.

 Sony DVP-NS755V with SACDMods upgraded clock and power supply => Ack dAck 2.0 with high resolution caps => Stax SRM 1/MK II =>Stax SR Lambda Pro.


----------



## westmalle

<<
 The question is, where is that high end harshness coming from, headphones, amp, source, interconnects, or my CDs, and what can I do to tame it a little bit without sacrificing any of the detail? The ICs are the Golden Raincoats that came with some of the Esound players that I ended up with through some kind of sale or trade.>>

 that harshness has more the do with the compression used in the mastering studio I suppose. Could also be the TL-34 power tubes in the marshall amp.
 maybe it is because Zildjan is not so good as Sabian Cymbals. maybe it is because the multi-mike close up with cheap condenser mikes is creating small phasing effects, that are modulating low frequency ,.....

 Maybe you just need to listen to the original uncompressed recording instead of that crappy 44k 16 bit file. Or rerecord it yourself with better instruments and a better signal path.


 Oh yeah, could be the celestions speakers caracter, or the dynamic microphone harsh freq. curve...


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *westmalle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or rerecord it yourself with better instruments and a better signal path._

 

Now that sounds like an interesting idea!

 And that is a great screen name. I could go for a Westmalle Double right about now.


----------



## westmalle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that sounds like an interesting idea!

 And that is a great screen name. I could go for a Westmalle Double right about now._

 

Cheers mate!! Here it is a bit too early in the morning to start drinking beer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its a fairly long time away, but when it comes time for me to put down for a set of 57s, I know that I'll get wallet pull toward the Precide Kithara too.

 I do love the idle long term dreaming of this hobby. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Speakers come and go but the original ESL is still the best after more then 50 years. That reminds me, Stax is fast approaching it's 50 anniversary of making ESP's as the SR-1 was debuted in 1959. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well yeah, but good SET amps are huge, expensive and require a ton of care. Not an optimal solution for me or anyone who has a kid as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But for a young single guy like you it a no compromise solution, go for it if you have around 20k to blow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Kids and animals are an issue but can be built around with some neat diy. The tubes can be encased in a glass cage with proper ventilation. Tube covers are mandatory on this side of the "pond" so most production amps have them but they are also easy to fabricate. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think everyone in the Stax thread can unanimously agree they like musical headphones._

 

The reason I loath dynamics is their inherent lack of musicality. They just lack that spark that even a crappy old electret has...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not sure if I should post this here or start a new thread. Since this is the current "main" Stax thread and there seem to be multiple splinter threads, I'll post so as not to increase the number of threads, at least for now.

 I love my Stax setup. It's the first time I've had a headphone amp combo that I really thought did just about everything I could ask of it.

 Still, I'm hearing some limitations after a year or so of listening with the same system. Primarily I'm hearing some harshness or distortion in the treble during particularly hard driving hard rock sections. For example, on the Rage Against the Machine track Bombtrack, the symbols do not seem as clean as I would like during the "Burn, burn, yes, ya gonna burn" section. Admittedly, this is a very loud, hard rock track, with lots of musical information and would probably be a challenge for any headphone. There are other times when I find cymbals to be a little harsh when they are hit particularly hard in the recording (or at least that's what it sounds like). 

 The question is, where is that high end harshness coming from, headphones, amp, source, interconnects, or my CDs, and what can I do to tame it a little bit without sacrificing any of the detail? The ICs are the Golden Raincoats that came with some of the Esound players that I ended up with through some kind of sale or trade.

 Sony DVP-NS755V with SACDMods upgraded clock and power supply => Ack dAck 2.0 with high resolution caps => Stax SRM 1/MK II =>Stax SR Lambda Pro._

 

I'm afraid that your Stax combo is the source for the HF anomalies. This has been known for a long time and was even noted in the 1984 Stereophile review. It can be tamed and managed with the right cables but the Lambda Pro will never have a good, even HF response. You could try a normal bias SR-Lambda to see if you prefer it's sound signature.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The question is, where is that high end harshness coming from, headphones, amp, source, interconnects, or my CDs, and what can I do to tame it a little bit without sacrificing any of the detail? The ICs are the Golden Raincoats that came with some of the Esound players that I ended up with through some kind of sale or trade._

 


 I had a similar problem with my old system (Benchmark DAC1 > SRM-313 > SR-404). Getting SR-007 and SRM-717 definitely helped the most, however I felt that certain level of engagement with the music was lost. It was only when I upgraded to a dCS DAC that the potential of the new headphones was realised.

 Generally I find that all pro-bias Lambda based headphones have certain harshness in the highs that can not really be removed, so either try the normal-bias model (which I admittedly haven't heard) or go for SR-007, but the associated upgrades can get expensive very quickly.


----------



## Saltuk

I won the auction on the srm-1/mk2. 
STAX SRM-1/MK-2 Amp, Near Mint, 2nd Owner, Audiophile - eBay (item 170211536087 end time Apr-27-08 18:43:18 PDT)

 I will try it first with the 202s in the amps default state(low bias) and will decide to mod the bias if it does not sound better than my 252 . 

 Spritzer you mentioned of the possibilty to mod it to pro bias.

 Can you give more information on it. Can some one experienced at buiding/repairing amplifiers handle the job ? 

 What parts are needed. A schemetic of the normal bias srm-1/mk2 would be great , anyone has a link?


----------



## spritzer

I don't think I've ever seen the SRM-1 schematic floating around on the net but who knows. The bias supply is a very simple voltage doubler or tripler with a 5Mohm bleed resistor at the end. Knowing Stax there are good odds that the there is a place for the bias circuitry on the PCB already and you simply need to fill it up with parts. If they did use a different PCB then it's not hard to make by borrowing some of the HV of the transformer.


----------



## Saltuk

I won the auction on the srm-1/mk2. 
STAX SRM-1/MK-2 Amp, Near Mint, 2nd Owner, Audiophile - eBay (item 170211536087 end time Apr-27-08 18:43:18 PDT)

 I will try it first with the 202s in the amps default state(low bias) and will decide to mod the bias if it does not sound better than my 252 . 

 Spritzer you mentioned of the possibilty to mod it to pro bias.

 Can you give more information on it. Can some one experienced at buiding/repairing amplifiers handle the job ? 

 What parts are needed. A schemetic of the normal bias srm-1/mk2 would be great , anyone has a link?


----------



## TheNewGuy8

What do a pair of Stax SR-Lambda's with an SRD-X amp generally go for?


----------



## bird_0f_fire

Hi all. Just wanted to say that I've been a 'lurker' here on the Stax thread for a few years (believe it or not I have read ALL the Stax posts) and I thought it was time to become a little more active. Even though I don't even own any electrostatic headphones (or any decent dynamics either) I have enjoyed the vicarious pleasure of reading about your listening experiences--thanks so much! I have never heard an els phone but I have heard a high-end system with Acoustat 2+2 speakers driven by ARC electronics and I love the electrostatic 'sound'.

 My goal, after I graduate from college in May '09, is to assemble a high-end system based on the 007 MkI or II. In the meantime I'll 'make-do' (barely!) with the Grado SR-80's driven direct from the jack on my Sony Discman 
 D-151 (all I can afford right now) and dream of graduation.

 PS--Spritzer, could you elaborate on your new source, the APL 32bit 3910? It's at the top of my source 'wish list' right now. Thanks.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do a pair of Stax SR-Lambda's with an SRD-X amp generally go for?_

 

Tough to say these days, with the inflation. If you can find these as a combo, you might shoot for $350. The problem is that you're much more likely to find them separately, in which case it'd be more like $400 all told, which IMO is crazy as then you're starting to get into the price range of an SRS-2050II. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all. Just wanted to say that I've been a 'lurker' here on the Stax thread for a few years (believe it or not I have read ALL the Stax posts) and I thought it was time to become a little more active. Even though I don't even own any electrostatic headphones (or any decent dynamics either) I have enjoyed the vicarious pleasure of reading about your listening experiences--thanks so much! I have never heard an els phone but I have heard a high-end system with Acoustat 2+2 speakers driven by ARC electronics and I love the electrostatic 'sound'.

 My goal, after I graduate from college in May '09, is to assemble a high-end system based on the 007 MkI or II. In the meantime I'll 'make-do' (barely!) with the Grado SR-80's driven direct from the jack on my Sony Discman 
 D-151 (all I can afford right now) and dream of graduation.

 PS--Spritzer, could you elaborate on your new source, the APL 32bit 3910? It's at the top of my source 'wish list' right now. Thanks._

 

Welcome to head-fi as an official member, then. And though an 007 system is a good goal to have in mind ahead of time, I think it would make fine sense in your case to get something like an SR-X or entry-level Lambda rig to tide you over on the way. It'll help you be sure the electrostatic sound is for you, and beat the pants off your Grados in the meantime. Then, when it's time to get the SR-007, you can easily get your cash back out of the placeholder rig.


----------



## bird_0f_fire

Welcome to head-fi as an official member, then. And though an 007 system is a good goal to have in mind ahead of time, I think it would make fine sense in your case to get something like an SR-X or entry-level Lambda rig to tide you over on the way. It'll help you be sure the electrostatic sound is for you, and beat the pants off your Grados in the meantime. Then, when it's time to get the SR-007, you can easily get your cash back out of the placeholder rig.[/QUOTE]

 Thanks facelvega. I have thought about trying to put together a 2050A system to "tide me over".


----------



## Fitz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think I've ever seen the SRM-1 schematic floating around on the net but who knows. The bias supply is a very simple voltage doubler or tripler with a 5Mohm bleed resistor at the end. Knowing Stax there are good odds that the there is a place for the bias circuitry on the PCB already and you simply need to fill it up with parts. If they did use a different PCB then it's not hard to make by borrowing some of the HV of the transformer._

 

There is indeed a spot on the PCB already ready for the pro bias supply; I saw it when I opened mine up to have a peek when I first got it.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do a pair of Stax SR-Lambda's with an SRD-X amp generally go for?_

 

They'll go for whatever music you can feed them and amplify it to a level your ears will describe as truly satisfying. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But, yes, you may have to part with $US400 or so - but, hey, money will come and go - appreciation of the music is to be savoured in the moment.


----------



## yale.reinstein

Hey Stax thread,

 A buddy of mine is in Japan currently, and he's nice enough to be okay with bringing me back a 2050A combo (without the box) when he returns sometime mid-may.

 Will there be a problem using the 100V Japanese AC/DC adapter with the 110V Canadian system? Edit: Found my answer earlier in the thread, I'll find a better wallwart when it comes time.

 Any random pieces of advice from people who have imported in this manner, or from owners/listeners of the 2050A? It will be my most expensive audio purchase to date. Any insight would be appreciated.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do a pair of Stax SR-Lambda's with an SRD-X amp generally go for?_

 

The "market price" is around 400$ but you can find it for less then that if you are lucky. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS--Spritzer, could you elaborate on your new source, the APL 32bit 3910? It's at the top of my source 'wish list' right now. Thanks._

 

There is not much I can say for now as it was damaged in shipping. A wire was knocked loose and shorted to ground so the sound was peculiar to say the least. I'm still waiting for APL to get back to me on where that wire is supposed to go so I can fix it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fitz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is indeed a spot on the PCB already ready for the pro bias supply; I saw it when I opened mine up to have a peek when I first got it._

 

Stax up to their usual tricks I see. All the T1 amps use the same PCB so this was common practice for them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Stax thread,

 A buddy of mine is in Japan currently, and he's nice enough to be okay with bringing me back a 2050A combo (without the box) when he returns sometime mid-may.

 Will there be a problem using the 100V Japanese AC/DC adapter with the 110V Canadian system? Edit: Found my answer earlier in the thread, I'll find a better wallwart when it comes time.

 Any random pieces of advice from people who have imported in this manner, or from owners/listeners of the 2050A? It will be my most expensive audio purchase to date. Any insight would be appreciated._

 

The only thing to watch out for it the polarity of the power plug when you find a new power brick to use.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The "market price" is around 400$ but you can find it for less then that if you are lucky._

 

Plaidplatypus was kind to me and sold me my first setup for $230 around Thanksgiving. My backup set was a little more, between you (Spritzer) selling me a SRD-X in January, and Fitz selling me a SR-Lambda last week, I managed to keep it down to $330 for the two items. One set for me, one for my 10 yr old son on loan if he shows good behaviour, nice father that I am. It's nice to know somethings will appreciate in value as they get older - like houses and Stax.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only thing to watch out for it the polarity of the power plug when you find a new power brick to use._

 

The crazyness is the SRD-X is 12v negative tip, and the SR-001 is 4.5v positive tip. They can't make up their mind?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Did I mention that I bought an HE60/HEV70, re-terminated by Rudistor with a Stax plug, and including new earpads and a pigtail adapter so the HEV70 can accept Stax plugs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All it cost me was my spare pair of Edition 9 and several hundreds of dollars... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will it sound better with my pro bias SRM-1 Mk2 or the HEV70?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(believe it or not I have read ALL the Stax posts)_

 

No way, I don't believe it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did I mention that I bought an HE60/HEV70, re-terminated by Rudistor with a Stax plug, and including new earpads and a pigtail adapter so the HEV70 can accept Stax plugs?_

 

Either APureSound or Moon Audio did the Stax plug conversion for my HE60, I forget. I don't have an HEV70. It sounds very good with a KGSS or Aristaeus, very clean and fast. It's a fun sound that's especially enjoyable with fast-paced music.

 I prefer the HE60 over the Airbow SR-SC1 and 4070. However, I think the HE60 lacks some refinement, weight, bass quality and that undefinable sense of realism and "musicality" that makes the experience of listening to the O2 Mk1 and Mk2, HE90 and SR-Omega seem so immersive.

 I also prefer the Qualia, R10, L3000, W5000 over the SR-SC1 and 4070 and rank them below the "Top 5", so the HE60 is in good company.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will it sound better with my pro bias SRM-1 Mk2 or the HEV70?_

 

The HEV70 is awful so the SRM-1 will walk all over it.


----------



## bjarnetv

SIGMAAAAA!!! 
 finally, my stax arrived; guess its time for some serious listening and float comparing.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheNewGuy8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do a pair of Stax SR-Lambda's with an SRD-X amp generally go for?_

 

I would say around $3-400, depending on your luck. Since the market value of the SR-Lambda have gone up a lot lately, caused by the increased demand.
_Shame on you Birgir!_





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all. Just wanted to say that I've been a 'lurker' here on the Stax thread for a few years (believe it or not I have read ALL the Stax posts) and I thought it was time to become a little more active._

 

Welcome aboard! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You can't go wrong with a system based on one of the SR-007 models. So start saving...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did I mention that I bought an HE60/HEV70, re-terminated by Rudistor with a Stax plug, and including new earpads and a pigtail adapter so the HEV70 can accept Stax plugs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, not as far as I have seen. Until now that is...
 Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SIGMAAAAA!!! 
 finally, my stax arrived; guess its time for some serious listening and float comparing._

 

Nice score Bjarne! [size=xx-small](thats your name right?)[/size]
 Some pictures and impressions are required.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say around $3-400, depending on your luck. Since the market value of the SR-Lambda have gone up a lot lately, caused by the increased demand.
Shame on you Birgir!



_

 

That one's on me...


----------



## Saltuk

Thanks for the infos on bias conversion. The srm-1/mk2 is on the way to me now . Will post when arrives.


----------



## yale.reinstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only thing to watch out for it the polarity of the power plug when you find a new power brick to use._

 

Looking around my house I find 2 12v bricks, but it seems they are all outer-shell negative, prong positive. Seems difficult to find one that is reversed.. even online.. Would it be easier to find one in Japan?

 Also, I'm assuming 1A = 1000mA. If it has more amperage, it is fine?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking around my house I find 2 12v bricks, but it seems they are all outer-shell negative, prong positive. Seems difficult to find one that is reversed.. even online.. Would it be easier to find one in Japan?

 Also, I'm assuming 1A = 1000mA. If it has more amperage, it is fine?_

 

1000mA is 1A and the more current the better. Most PSU's you might find around the house have a positive center pin but it's easy to fix that. Just cut the cable somewhere are reverse the wires and insulate with some electrical tape.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking around my house I find 2 12v bricks, but it seems they are all outer-shell negative, prong positive. Seems difficult to find one that is reversed.. even online.. Would it be easier to find one in Japan?

 Also, I'm assuming 1A = 1000mA. If it has more amperage, it is fine?_

 

More amperage is fine, but stay at the right voltage level. Also, avoid switching supplies (unless you know they are good) and stick with regulated linear supplies for cleaner power that won't create audible noise. In case someone reading the thread doesn't know what a switching supply is, it's easy to tell the difference: they usually say somewhere, they are smaller than linear supplies, and switchers can accept a range of AC input voltages, while linear supplies only work with a certain input.


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice score Bjarne! [size=xx-small](thats your name right?)[/size]
 Some pictures and impressions are required. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

there will of course be lots of pictures, we are talking of the float and sigma here after all, the tag team of good looks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 "unfortunatly", i have a dokumentary film festival to attend to, so it will have to wait.


----------



## jhellow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KGBH SE with a normal bias output maybe? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some pictures:








_

 

Are we going to see these out any time soon. I am on the 2nd list.

 Thanks for any information!

 JHellow


----------



## plaidplatypus

Edit: I think the tubes look better all lined up. Not that I could build anything near as nice as the above.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jhellow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are we going to see these out any time soon. I am on the 2nd list.

 Thanks for any information!

 JHellow_

 

I hope sometime soon after CanJam. Also looking forward to impressions of it!


----------



## justin w.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: I think the tubes look better all lined up. Not that I could build anything near as nice as the above._

 

The internal layout wouldn't make sense with the tubes lined up with the heatsinks outside the case


----------



## smeggy

What kind of price would something like this go for Justin? If it's under $300 or so we should talk


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of price would something like this go for Justin? If it's under $300 or so we should talk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They (only 13 units will be produced) have a price tag of $4500. They are all covered for, so no luck.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007A is in customs now and I should have it on Monday evening so I can start comparing the two._

 

So, Monday is long gone... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Did they arrive safely, or did you run into problems?

 Would like to hear your first impressions on the SR-007A vs. SR-007.


----------



## Elephas

I'm guessing the SR-007A has already arrived, but he only has a Corda amp's DAC as source for now. Oh, he also thinks the earpads are too loose.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm guessing the SR-007A has already arrived, but he only has a Corda amp's DAC as source for now. Oh, he also thinks the earpads are too loose. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are running of the BH now and after some creative bending of the arc's they are getting better but I prefer the Mk1 for now.


----------



## HDen

I think he posted a picture of it on the HEAudio thread


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are running of the BH now and after some creative bending of the arc's they are getting better but I prefer the Mk1 for now._

 

That means they have arrived. Great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he posted a picture of it on the HEAudio thread_

 

Heading over to take a look...


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but I prefer the Mk1 for now._

 

Noooo! Aaagh! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does this mean I'm going to be the only one holding the Mk2 banner? Team Mk2, where art thou? I'm beginning to feel lonely already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hmm, maybe Team Source First will have me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That means they have arrived. Great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup, there are also some impressions on the site which we can not speak of... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Noooo! Aaagh! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does this mean I'm going to be the only one holding the Mk2 banner? Team Mk2, where art thou? I'm beginning to feel lonely already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hmm, maybe Team Source First will have me._

 

The bass is simply too bloated and prominent for it to compete with the Mk1. There is also some midrange etch that definitely shouldn't be there...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, there are also some impressions on the site which we can not speak of..._

 

Heading over...


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Noooo! Aaagh! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does this mean I'm going to be the only one holding the Mk2 banner? Team Mk2, where art thou? I'm beginning to feel lonely already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hmm, maybe Team Source First will have me._

 

Team MK2 here, but I have no choice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would like to have a pair of MK1 to compare.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The internal layout wouldn't make sense with the tubes lined up with the heatsinks outside the case_

 

unless the heatsinks were on "top" of the case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 now, who do I know that is doing that.....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unless the heatsinks were on "top" of the case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 now, who do I know that is doing that....._

 

Some crazy bugger probably...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bass is simply too bloated and prominent for it to compete with the Mk1. There is also some midrange etch that definitely shouldn't be there..._

 

How would you describe the tonal balance compared to the mk1? Do they seem as transparent as the mk1? My mk2 is bloated in the midbass and doesn’t have the deep deep bass punch of the mk1. They also still have a murky quality compared to my mk1. If I listen to just the mk2 I seem satisfied, but when I put on the mk1 my jaw drops. I don’t think that the earpad is the only reason. I plan on getting a mk2 earpad and putting it on my mk1. I’m beginning to think that Stax may have changed the tension of the diaphragm (tighter) on the mk2 to reduce the “Stax fart” and has changed the sonic character. Just a thought.


----------



## facelvega

F2D and I tested the SR-Sigma, Gamma, Lambda and 303 up against the PMB500 today at the Brooklyn micro-meet. Look here.


----------



## sango

"small contribution to the thread"
 sitting with my SR-007 on my head and they amaze me even more when i'm drunk.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 please don't ban me..


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"small contribution to the thread"
 sitting with my SR-007 on my head and they amaze me even more when i'm drunk.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 please don't ban me.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If drunken posting got you banned, there would be half as many members on head-fi.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_F2D and I tested the SR-Sigma, Gamma, Lambda and 303 up against the PMB500 today at the Brooklyn micro-meet. Look here._

 

Well documented. Worth the trip over to the other thread.


----------



## sango

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If drunken posting got you banned, there would be half as many members on head-fi._

 

sweet, then i can reveal that the Stax 4070 sound even badder than the SR-007..


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heading over..._

 

Just returning the photo to the proper thread.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_F2D and I tested the SR-Sigma, Gamma, Lambda and 303 up against the PMB500 today at the Brooklyn micro-meet. Look here._

 

Guess thats worth a trip over.
 Thanks!


----------



## audiod

FYI: eBay USA has a Lambda Pro (with original box) for "Buy it Now" price of $350. That's not a bad price. They look to be in good condition.


----------



## spritzer

Here is the rest of pictures taken mostly to show the difference between the Mk1 and A: 














  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would you describe the tonal balance compared to the mk1? Do they seem as transparent as the mk1? My mk2 is bloated in the midbass and doesn’t have the deep deep bass punch of the mk1. They also still have a murky quality compared to my mk1. If I listen to just the mk2 I seem satisfied, but when I put on the mk1 my jaw drops. I don’t think that the earpad is the only reason. I plan on getting a mk2 earpad and putting it on my mk1. I’m beginning to think that Stax may have changed the tension of the diaphragm (tighter) on the mk2 to reduce the “Stax fart” and has changed the sonic character. Just a thought._

 

They were a bit murky until I started to work on the arc's and now the midbass is better controlled but there is still a "hump" that could be appealing to some but it shouldn't be there. There is a midrange resonance that appears in massed male voices but that could disappear with more burn in. It only happens in trouble spots like on Steely Dan's - FM track where they sing together. 

 They could have altered the tension of the diaphragm but I think there is a port somewhere hidden to let the trapped air escape. Press the earpieces against the head tight, then let go and there is only a mild suction sound while on the Mk1 all hell would break loose. That means that there is an easy way in and out for the air as they also don't make a sound when you press on them. I didn't find anything when I took off the pads but that was before I eve listened to them so I didn't know what to look for. If you do try Mk1 pads it would be wise to also use the Mk1 spring (the circular metal bit that goes inside the pads) as it seems to be slightly different on the Mk2/A. 

 To me the Mk1 is the no compromise item with better sound and massive issues but Stax needed to fix those issues and came up with a slightly compromised headphone that some may even prefer.


----------



## sango

Is pressing the earpads to your head a bad thing to do with the MkI? Does it make any damage on the driver? 
 I think it sounds like its gonna crack when it "farts".
 //


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is pressing the earpads to your head a bad thing to do with the MkI? Does it make any damage on the driver? 
 I think it sounds like its gonna crack when it "farts".
 //_

 

I know! Man, sometimes my Lambda's left driver makes a horrible, prolonged "peeling" sound that may last as long as thirty seconds. Absolutely nothing I've tried has been able to eliminate the sound or even reduce its intensity. Not even a little.


----------



## erikzen

The first time I heard the Stax "fart" I thought I had broken the headphones.

 When it happens there doesn't seem to be any permanent damage but I try to avoid making contact with the driver. I don't think you want to continually press the headphones against your ears but if it happens inadvertently once in a while I don't think it causes any harm.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is pressing the earpads to your head a bad thing to do with the MkI? Does it make any damage on the driver? 
 I think it sounds like its gonna crack when it "farts".
 //_

 

No damage will occur as the stators are well insulated.


----------



## 2deadeyes

As per the the manual, you may hear a crack/pop sound if you accidentally push the pads against your ears - it should have no harmful effects if this happens.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI: eBay USA has a Lambda Pro (with original box) for "Buy it Now" price of $350. That's not a bad price. They look to be in good condition._

 

That's weird I don't recall seeing those before I went to bed, and they are gone now.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's weird I don't recall seeing those before I went to bed, and they are gone now._

 

They sold May 1, 7:00AM PDT.


----------



## milkpowder

Nice cans Spritzer. I see the "Denon" has arrived too
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (or have I been way too unobservant?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Asr

...And right on the eve of CanJam '08, I've taken a calculated pre-emptive move towards achieving an electrostatic system! Just bought an amp, now to go for a headphone...I don't suppose if those who've heard the OII MKII can say how similar-sounding it might be to the Grado HP1000 or an Audio-Technica AD2000?

 Edit: er, forget I asked, I'll be finding out for myself this weekend.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As per the the manual, you may hear a crack/pop sound if you accidentally push the pads against your ears - it should have no harmful effects if this happens._

 

My 20 year old Lambda Pro and my 2 year old SR-303 both make this sound but my new SR-404 and SR-202 do not (both purchased in the past 5 months). It appears that Stax may have made some changes to reduce the "fart".


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice cans Spritzer. I see the "Denon" has arrived too
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (or have I been way too unobservant?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

It's been sitting for nearly a week now unused as there is something wrong with it. I'm still waiting for APL to get back to me on it. I'm going to order some ECC99 tubes though to have spares and to see if it's just the tube acting up. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 20 year old Lambda Pro and my 2 year old SR-303 both make this sound but my new SR-404 and SR-202 do not (both purchased in the past 5 months). It appears that Stax may have made some changes to reduce the "fart"._

 

The Lambdas are the same as they have always been and the fart varies from unit to unit.


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...And right on the eve of CanJam '08, I've taken a calculated pre-emptive move towards achieving an electrostatic system! Just bought an amp, now to go for a headphone...I don't suppose if those who've heard the OII MKII can say how similar-sounding it might be to the Grado HP1000 or an Audio-Technica AD2000?

 Edit: er, forget I asked, I'll be finding out for myself this weekend. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What amp would that be Asr? I'm also thinking of skipping the whole upgrade thing, and jumping straight to Omega II, but before that I have to basically buy a whole new setup, source, interconnects, amp, and headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I'll think of it as an 'early' x-mas present


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still waiting for APL to get back to me on it._

 

Good luck. On APL forum, you see so many posts titled "Alex, please get back to me," and these are people who bought the $$$ Esoteric mods. Their customer service is, eh... famous.

 Before Alex became famous (his Sony 707ES mod days), he had great customer service. I had my tubed Cary CDP modded by him long ago, and it arrived with a loose wire on the board as well, but I was actually able to call him up and talk to him on the phone


----------



## ak40ozKevin

This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead.


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead._

 

man that's horrible, have you filled a report or something with the police? Even though they might not really help or do anything, you never know. 

 The look of the stax headphones are something alright, I think if it was an omega II he would've taken that as well though...


----------



## gimmish

Good luck. On APL forum, you see so many posts titled "Alex, please get back to me," and these are people who bought the $$$ Esoteric mods. Their customer service is, eh... famous.

 Before Alex became famous (his Sony 707ES mod days), he had great customer service. I had my tubed Cary CDP modded by him long ago, and it arrived with a loose wire on the board as well, but I was actually able to call him up and talk to him on the phone 


 I had my Sony scd777es modded by modwright a few years back and I have nothing but wonderful things to say about Dan Wright. He still answers the phone himself and returns emails, he is always helpful. I recently sent it to him for some repairs (the problem it turns out was probably in my own head) which were done free of charge with no hassles.I don't know much about APL, but I would recomend Modwright with no reservation.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead._

 

Wow, that sucks. Glad you made it out of that alive. These days criminals don't seem to have a problem killing to victim to eliminate witnesses.

 I'd be in a different situation - emotional trauma from shooting the bastage before he shoots me. I walk around my house with gun in my pocket (well and outside too).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good luck. On APL forum, you see so many posts titled "Alex, please get back to me," and these are people who bought the $$$ Esoteric mods. Their customer service is, eh... famous.

 Before Alex became famous (his Sony 707ES mod days), he had great customer service. I had my tubed Cary CDP modded by him long ago, and it arrived with a loose wire on the board as well, but I was actually able to call him up and talk to him on the phone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

There's quite a bit of that but all successful small companies suffer from this, I know that I do. Sometimes I just don't want to answer the phone and get on with working so I know full well his dilemma. I did buy some ECC99 gold pins so when they arrive I know if it is the tube or not. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had my Sony scd777es modded by modwright a few years back and I have nothing but wonderful things to say about Dan Wright. He still answers the phone himself and returns emails, he is always helpful. I recently sent it to him for some repairs (the problem it turns out was probably in my own head) which were done free of charge with no hassles.I don't know much about APL, but I would recomend Modwright with no reservation._

 

Modwright is good but they simply don't go far enough. They install a new output stage and upgrade parts here and there but all the digital bits are left untouched. The APL players are a total redesign with all the pro's and con's of that.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead._

 

Bah. I'm glad you're alive. 

 A similar story happened to my friend not too long ago. He was robbed at gunpoint by three fellows who basically stormed into the house, beat the crap out of everyone, laid them out on the floor, put a pillow over their heads execution style, and somehow at the last minute decided not to pull the trigger. I guess it's because my friend was... well, let's say, influential. Still, he had literally hundreds of thousands in money and property stolen.

 I hope I never have to be in a position where I have to decide whether or not to use deadly force to prevent a robbery, and live with the consequences.

 I also hope that you can get some compensation for what you've lost.

 Get a dog. Nice, big, loyal one. Probably the best security measure you can have.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the rest of pictures taken mostly to show the difference between the Mk1 and A: 
 <snip>_

 

Great looking headphones!
 I have to say the SR-007A have a nicer look than the SR-007. Black vs. brown..

 Also great to hear that you think the SR-007 have a lead in favor of the SR-007A. Guess I can sleep comfortable then, knowing that I don't miss out of anything with my SR-007BL. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is pressing the earpads to your head a bad thing to do with the MkI? Does it make any damage on the driver? 
 I think it sounds like its gonna crack when it "farts".
 //_

 

No! A paper followed my SR-007BL (inside the wrapped up flight case) stating that it do no harm to the headphones.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead._

 

Thats horrible!
 But luckily you got out of there alive, and hopefully with no physical and minor physical damage.


----------



## webbie64

I know it's an o-l-d topic and I have sourced some info from threads but I have posted here - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sr-...7/#post4164073 - to get current opinions and comments.

 I have a new set of 303s that I want to compare to a well used set of 404s but I need to burn the 303s in for a fair comparison.

 Please jump over to the other thread if you can help.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great looking headphones!
 I have to say the SR-007A have a nicer look than the SR-007. Black vs. brown..

 Also great to hear that you think the SR-007 have a lead in favor of the SR-007A. Guess I can sleep comfortable then, knowing that I don't miss out of anything with my SR-007BL. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They do look better but there is no need to rush out and buy one.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's quite a bit of that but all successful small companies suffer from this, I know that I do. Sometimes I just don't want to answer the phone and get on with working so I know full well his dilemma. I did buy some ECC99 gold pins so when they arrive I know if it is the tube or not. _

 

What's acting up with the APL? Sorry to hear about it Birgir, I know how long you waited for it


----------



## kool bubba ice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great looking headphones!
 I have to say the SR-007A have a nicer look than the SR-007. Black vs. brown..

 Also great to hear that you think the SR-007 have a lead in favor of the SR-007A. Guess I can sleep comfortable then, knowing that I don't miss out of anything with my SR-007BL. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 No! A paper followed my SR-007BL (inside the wrapped up flight case) stating that it do no harm to the headphones.


 Thats horrible!
 But luckily you got out of there alive, and hopefully with no physical and minor physical damage._

 

I would have done something stupid like attack him..If I did get my hands on him it would be over for him..


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kool bubba ice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would have done something stupid like attack him..If I did get my hands on him it would be over for him.._

 

Why insult Kevin by fantasizing about your own bravery from the safety of your computer table? That post was in poor taste.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is a tragic story so I won't go into too much detail but on Monday evening I was held up in my own house at gunpoint and robbed. I'm still not quite getting over losing thousands of dollars of electronics (Macbook Pro, Wii, iphone) but I somehow found some humor in the fact that one of the only things left on my computer desk was my Stax SRS-2050II system. I could just imagine the robber being puzzled about whether or not he should grab them and then deciding forget it and taking a bunch of other **** instead._

 






 What a horrible thing to happen to anyone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was jumped one time in the middle of the day in busy Brooklyn neighborhood by 3 guys and no one helped me. Since I was young and stupid I kicked and punched and ran for as fast as I could. I was spiting blood fro hours from a blow of a tree branch into my face. I was lucky to get into building lobby in time. All this was for my Walkman and headphones.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, that sucks. Glad you made it out of that alive. These days criminals don't seem to have a problem killing to victim to eliminate witnesses.

 I'd be in a different situation - emotional trauma from shooting the bastage before he shoots me. I walk around my house with gun in my pocket (well and outside too)._

 

Yeah, really I was just lucky to make it out alive. My roommate came home from work while we were held hostage on the living room floor and they followed him out while he ran to call the police giving me and my girl time to escape out the side door and run to a pub for help. 

 The whole experience has me more motivated than I've ever been as far as work goes. Really I couldn't care less about my losses because I made it out alive. But at the same time I still space out and think about violently killing the guys who robbed me. I've personally always had a negative look on firearms but now I imagine I will be cradling a shotgun, rocking back and forth on the sofa, and muttering angry nothings to myself alone.

 Anyways about those Stax... I still have those


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I've personally always had a negative look on firearms but now I imagine I will be cradling a shotgun, rocking back and forth on the sofa, and muttering angry nothings to myself alone..._

 

Well... Maybe you could start off a little slower, and less psycho, like a .38 and cowboy boots.


----------



## AudioCats

If I remembered right, the 303 and 404 are about the same except the cable, correct? what is the main difference between 202 and 303? diaphragm thickness? 

 thanks


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do look better but there is no need to rush out and buy one._

 

...so I have put it on hold for a while.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kool bubba ice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would have done something stupid like attack him..If I did get my hands on him it would be over for him.._

 

Well, that might very well had been the last thing you ever did.
 Especially when under a gun point.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's acting up with the APL? Sorry to hear about it Birgir, I know how long you waited for it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

It's distorts and there is no bass. I suspect the tube but I have no spares to try out but they are on the way. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I remembered right, the 303 and 404 are about the same except the cable, correct? what is the main difference between 202 and 303? diaphragm thickness? 

 thanks_

 

Same diaphragm but different stators. What the differences are is impossible to tell without sacrificing a couple of drivers.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same diaphragm but different stators. What the differences are is impossible to tell without sacrificing a couple of drivers._

 

How different are their sound?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How different are their sound?_

 

It's more a difference of refinement then anything else. It's been too long since I listened to them side by side for a good comparison but I quite like both drivers though the 404 units is mostly wasted on the Lambda frame.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How different are their sound?_

 

SR-202 are a tiny bit more mids oriented and more forgiving, think more like SR-Lambda. SR-303 have more detail and are a bit more forward sounding. The differences are very minor and really come out on fast and complex recordings.

 P.S. I really spend just about half an hour with SR-202 and a lot of time with SR-303.


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks Birgir. Does the 202 also have the mid-range spike (like the 404 is supposedly having)?

 I am asking because there is a used 212/202 system in the FS section for $275. Somebody please grab it! I already spend too much $$ on Stax in the last 45 days


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-202 are a tiny bit more mids oriented and more forgiving, think more like SR-Lambda. SR-303 have more detail and are a bit more forward sounding. The differences are very minor and really come out on fast and complex recordings.

 P.S. I really spend just about half an hour with SR-202 and a lot of time with SR-303._

 

thanks. kind of like the difference between my 110v and 220v SRM-1's.... except the 110v is the one that is more forward.


----------



## pdennis

Looks like the SR-202 is available separately from Audiocubes II now. Did I miss this news recently? Or is it somehow not genuine?


----------



## smeggy

Looks genuine. However, I notice a lot of prices are now a good deal higher than last time I looked. Over 25% in many cases


----------



## Cecala

While I'm not able to read at the moment over 600 pages in this thread alone I have a few questions for the Stax experts here.
 Firstly is the Stax SR-007A (OmegaII) the top Stax phone in production and what amp is ideally suited to it? I know the Headamp BHSE is the top performer here, although how does the Woo GES stack up?
 Lastly is Audiocubes or Pricejapan the best place to but Stax.
 Thanks.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Firstly is the Stax SR-007A (OmegaII) the top Stax phone in production?_

 

Yes.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and what amp is ideally suited to it?_

 

I'd pick a maxxed Blue Hawaii. Some find the maxxed ES-1 to also do well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know the Headamp BHSE is the top performer here, although how does the Woo GES stack up?_

 

Never seen a direct comparison but I'd suggest it'd be like chalk and cheese - the BH has a great deal more power to deliver to the power-hungry O2s. I'm sure if you just check spritzer's posts you'll find comments that are a lot clearer than that but with that general emphasis.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lastly is Audiocubes or Pricejapan the best place to buy Stax._

 

The best place to buy Stax is HERE, at HeadFi 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Alright, seriously, new imported into Australia you'll find yourself paying import duties for anything valued over $AU1000. So factor that in if you are buying from grey market like Audiocubes or Pricejapan. In terms of which is best, do the searching of each vendor as sometimes one or the other is better (price wise) for a particular item. I've never compared them for level of service, etc but I'd say they were reasonably similar.

 If you're looking for a used set you might still find a bargain by buying from Yahoo Japan through a broker (but, again, factor in the brokerage fees and extra shipping - they'll be shipped to the broker and then, after the broker verifies all is fine, they'll be shipped on to you).


----------



## Elephas

I've been listening to the HE90+Aristaeus the past few days and I think I must have been running a fever when I said the SR-007 Mk2 is better. Did I really say that? Maybe I just dreamed about posting that on Head-Fi. Aaargh, that's pathetic. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, switching to Siemens ECC83 tubes instead of Sylvania 5751 works better with the HE90. Both of the O2's do better with the Sylvanias, which have an extremely crisp, clear and clean sound.

 The HE90's greater brightness, air and soundstage benefits less from the Sylvania 5751's than the O2's. It works extremely well with an all-Siemens tube complement. I don't understand how anyone can say another headphone is better than the HE90+Aristaeus.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been listening to the HE90+Aristaeus the past few days and I think I must have been running a fever when I said the SR-007 Mk2 is better. Did I really say that? Maybe I just dreamed about posting that on Head-Fi. Aaargh, that's pathetic. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, switching to Siemens ECC83 tubes instead of Sylvania 5751 works better with the HE90. Both of the O2's do better with the Sylvanias, which have an extremely crisp, clear and clean sound.

 The HE90's greater brightness, air and soundstage benefits less from the Sylvania 5751's than the O2's. It works extremely well with an all-Siemens tube complement. I don't understand how anyone can say another headphone is better than the HE90+Aristaeus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Try it with an amp that isn't capacitor coupled and report back. Just don't blame the amp when the phones suck... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Koss ESP950 at 620v bias is just sick bass wise... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not nearly as good as the SR-007 but damn impressive for this old... er... relic. It might be a bit too forward but I'll know in due time.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been listening to the HE90+Aristaeus the past few days and I think I must have been running a fever when I said the SR-007 Mk2 is better. Did I really say that? Maybe I just dreamed about posting that on Head-Fi. Aaargh, that's pathetic. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, switching to Siemens ECC83 tubes instead of Sylvania 5751 works better with the HE90. Both of the O2's do better with the Sylvanias, which have an extremely crisp, clear and clean sound.

 The HE90's greater brightness, air and soundstage benefits less from the Sylvania 5751's than the O2's. It works extremely well with an all-Siemens tube complement. I don't understand how anyone can say another headphone is better than the HE90+Aristaeus. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah-hah! So the key element is not the headphones or amps! (I've been focussed on the wrong items 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). It's the tubes! (and I thought tube prices were going through the roof as it is - but when this info gets out I can see 'ultimate tube' adverts for these tubes with O2 and HE90 owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 $16K tubes in the future, anyone?).

 Seriously, though, thanks for the info Elephas. Reinforces the importance of tailoring the system to get the best synergy of all components within it. Keep enjoying the music you're now getting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. Koss ESP950 at 620v bias is just sick bass wise... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not nearly as good as the SR-007 but damn impressive for this old... er... relic. It might be a bit too forward but I'll know in due time._

 

Thanks for the update, spritzer. I am SO keen to get a 620v bias supply hooked into my system somehow.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the update, spritzer. I am SO keen to get a 620v bias supply hooked into my system somehow._

 

It's makes for a nice upgrade but the sound might be a tad to strained at high-ish volume. I need more time to be sure. 

 As for bias supplies there might be some development here in the coming year or so. I'm certainly going to try my hand at a simple 230/580v combo supply for my own amps and if it works I'll share it. There are other designs being worked on as well


----------



## gimmish

webbie64;4174979 said:
			
		

> Ah-hah! So the key element is not the headphones or amps! (I've been focussed on the wrong items
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## HugoFreire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try it with an amp that isn't capacitor coupled and report back. Just don't blame the amp when the phones suck... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

LOL, you are a joke.
 And your patience and time availability to repeat the very same thing everyday is amazing.


----------



## shomie911

I posted this question in a seperate thread, but I thought it would be appropriate here too.

 After listening to the SRS-2050II, the SRS-4040II, and the SRS-007II at CanJam I was ready to buy an electrostatic rig.

 I particularly liked the SRS-4040II and I was planning on buying a pair of used SRS-4040 (previous generation) used for $950.

 But after reading about the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2, would that be a similar sounding/performing solution. 

 The price is significatly less and I'm looking for the best possible cost to performance I can get out of my first Stax rig.


----------



## pdennis

6 months ago, in reference to power supplies:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The units I use are all vintage with massive transformers and over specced._

 

I hope I'm not speaking too soon to say that I'm probably acquiring a secondhand 2020 system. I'm wondering about picking up an old power supply off of eBay for the srm-212 (there's a 20 yr old Lambda, for example, which I thought would be appropriate). Or would a new regulated PS like this be just as good and less likely to have deteriorated capacitors?

 EDIT:

 One more question. Can I charge up the SR-202 through the SRM-212, then plug it into my SRD-7, to simulate a pro bias transformer box for a short time? Could it damage the 'phones or adaptor?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since the subject of tubes has come up I actually must agree about O2s and sylvania tubes. I had my GES for five days before I changed the russian tubes for a set of Sylvania 12AX7WAs. It made it come to life and now after more than two hundred hours, the sound is cystal clear,detailed, airy, etc. etc. Old Sylvania tubes rock!_

 

This makes me so glad that the new Blue Hawaii will be able to use something else then EL34's. Cheap, obscure tubes that nobody wants is the way!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HugoFreire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL, you are a joke.
 And your patience and time availability to repeat the very same thing everyday is amazing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Have you ever hear anything but the Aristaeus or any DC amps? All the amps that the HE90 is supposed to sound great with are sub par designs compared to the BH so the phones like that more. It's simply the character of the phones I would also go look up any one of the capacitor shootouts on the web and see what they say about the Solen caps in the Aristaeus. The amp would have had to be much more expensive to fit anything better but there is a large room for improvement. 

 I know I've said it a lot over the last few years but I've also been hammering on about the BH and SR-007 combo. Now go read the Canjam impressions and see if I was right or not. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6 months ago, in reference to power supplies:



 I hope I'm not speaking too soon to say that I'm probably acquiring a secondhand 2020 system. I'm wondering about picking up an old power supply off of eBay for the srm-212 (there's a 20 yr old Lambda, for example, which I thought would be appropriate). Or would a new regulated PS like this be just as good and less likely to have deteriorated capacitors?

 EDIT:

 One more question. Can I charge up the SR-202 through the SRM-212, then plug it into my SRD-7, to simulate a pro bias transformer box for a short time? Could it damage the 'phones or adaptor?_

 

Something like that supply would be fine. I've also had good results with the most unlikely supplies, namely an adapter from an old Creative speaker system and various supplies I've salvaged. 

 The phones do hold the bias for some time but it varies from phone to phone how long it takes to down down. You can always leach the bias from any Stax unit with an adapter cable consisting of one Stax socket and two male plugs. Since they are unobtainable now you can use molex pins and sockets to create a crude but effective adapter cable. Just be sure to insulate it properly.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HugoFreire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL, you are a joke.
 And your patience and time availability to repeat the very same thing everyday is amazing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Totally uncalled for!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I posted this question in a seperate thread, but I thought it would be appropriate here too.

 After listening to the SRS-2050II, the SRS-4040II, and the SRS-007II at CanJam I was ready to buy an electrostatic rig.

 I particularly liked the SRS-4040II and I was planning on buying a pair of used SRS-4040 (previous generation) used for $950.

 But after reading about the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2, would that be a similar sounding/performing solution._

 

Maybe even better. The Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro is a great combo. The SRM-006t is not one of Stax's better amps (this is the amp used in the 4040 system). The amp has a upper midrange brightness which doesn’t work well with the 404 that has the same problem. The precursor to the 006t (the SRM-T1) is a much better sounding amp. If you can get the Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro for a good price GO FOR IT!


----------



## Elephas

Spritzer's preference for the SR-007 over the HE90 is well-known. I made my claims about the O2Mk2 and HE90 in good fun, and I bear the brunt of his posts the same way. I read HugoFreire's post the same, in good fun. Anyway, allowances must be given to a fellow Aristaeus owner. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Spritzer's having some fun with me because he knows I've been suffering from the SinglePower blackhole and the BHSE void (although Justin did have a prototype at CanJam, I think he shouldn't have attended at all and worked on my amp the whole time instead. Huh!). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The O2Mk1, O2Mk2, SR-Omega, HE90, HE60, 4070 and some others all sound very good and any one of them will produce great music and enjoyment for the listener. I think anyone is crazy (and has exquisitely focused tastes) to say any of them sound bad. As long as the source is good everything sounds good, I say! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The "Top 5" claim I made was supposed to be a bit funny too. If you noticed, there were two SR-Omega's in the photo. Does this mean it is ranked 3 and 4, or 4 and 5? I dunno. But when I'm listening to the SR-Omega, wriggling my butt in time to the music and suffering from repeated eargasms after eargasms, I also wonder how it isn't ranked first?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer's preference for the SR-007 over the HE90 is well-known. I made my claims about the O2Mk2 and HE90 in good fun, and I bear the brunt of his posts the same way. I read HugoFreire's post the same, in good fun. Anyway, allowances must be given to a fellow Aristaeus owner. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Spritzer's having some fun with me because he knows I've been suffering from the SinglePower blackhole and the BHSE void (although Justin did have a prototype at CanJam, I think he shouldn't have attended at all and worked on my amp the whole time instead. Huh!). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The O2Mk1, O2Mk2, SR-Omega, HE90, HE60, 4070 and some others all sound very good and any one of them will produce great music and enjoyment for the listener. I think anyone is crazy (and has exquisitely focused tastes) to say any of them sound bad. As long as the source is good everything sounds good, I say! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The "Top 5" claim I made was supposed to be a bit funny too. If you noticed, there were two SR-Omega's in the photo. Does this mean it is ranked 3 and 4, or 4 and 5? I dunno. But when I'm listening to the SR-Omega, wriggling my butt in time to the music and suffering from repeated eargasms after eargasms, I also wonder how it isn't ranked first? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You know I love to tease you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I must stick up for Justin though and say there are some good reasons for the delay of the BHSE and it's Justin's perfectionism. He recently redesigned the whole amp section layout for better thermal stability and that deserves admiration although it may test the patience of some... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm sure you are going to like the SR-007Mk2 when you get a good amp given your choice of music and their overblown bass but a new amp isn't going to change their basic sound signature. Lack of treble extension and bass issues are mostly the result of insufficient power available to them which is a well documented issue with all planar drivers. 

 The SR-Ω does sound very good and it was a no contest for me which was better, it or the HE90. The SR-Ω is simply more musical and drags you into the music so you want to listen more and more. The HE90 is just impressive but once that wears off you are stuck with boomy bass and horrible imaging which is something I can't stand.


----------



## borisov57

What would be good price for Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro in Europe?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *borisov57* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be good price for Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro in Europe?_

 

400-700$ would be good but it depends on which version of the SRM-1 Mk2 and the condition of the set.


----------



## borisov57

Thank you spritzer. I love my SR-001 mk2, so my next purchase will be full size stax. I am thinking of buying SR-404 and make a KGSS to drive it. Will this be better sounding than Lambda Pro/SRM-1 mk2?


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...given your choice of music..._

 

Please don't tell them about the "Rihanna - Umbrella (Remixes)" incident!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *borisov57* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you spritzer. I love my SR-001 mk2, so my next purchase will be full size stax. I am thinking of buying SR-404 and make a KGSS to drive it. Will this be better sounding than Lambda Pro/SRM-1 mk2?_

 

The amp is notably better but the headphones are more different then one being better then the other. I'm not a fan of the Lambda Pro but many are but while the SR-404 has much better drivers they simply show the limitations of the housing even better so most of the potential is wasted.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please don't tell them about the "Rihanna - Umbrella (Remixes)" incident! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I don't need to now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think that the new SR-007 would lap up stuff like that with it's extra bass "thump". Go on... take one for the team.


----------



## scompton

Yesterday, I got a Playback 70, which is probaby a SR-3 clone. It came with a self biasing adapter. After about 16 hours of playing music though them, the volume is still incredibly low. I have them attached to a Super T and, at full volume it's at about 50dB. Is this a potential problem with the adapter?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yesterday, I got a Playback 70, which is probaby a SR-3 clone. It came with a self biasing adapter. After about 16 hours of playing music though them, the volume is still incredibly low. I have them attached to a Super T and, at full volume it's at about 50dB. Is this a potential problem with the adapter?_

 

Could be. Can you post any pictures of it and the internals of the adapter?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Ω does sound very good and it was a no contest for me which was better, it or the HE90. The SR-Ω is simply more musical and drags you into the music so you want to listen more and more. The HE90 is just impressive but once that wears off you are stuck with boomy bass and horrible imaging which is something I can't stand._

 

I hear this HE90 "horrible imaging" comment from you and a few other people on Russian boards. How does imaging on HE90 compares to Lambda and Sigma series?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear this HE90 "horrible imaging" comment from you and a few other people on Russian boards. How does imaging on HE90 compares to Lambda and Sigma series?_

 

While the Lambda and Sigma both have large, diffused soundstages they are still focused though nothing like the supra-aurals or the SR-007. The HE90 feels like you are in a fog with voices and instruments occupying a space but it's tough to place them with in that particular space. This will always be down to preference whether you like this or not. 

 With most headphones it doesn't really matter if the L earpiece is fed the L side of the stereo signal but this is a big deal for the HE90. I discovered this once when I was messing with my rig and swapped the input cables. The result is a break in the soundstage, as if part of it is missing. Very strange.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe even better. The Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro is a great combo. The SRM-006t is not one of Stax's better amps (this is the amp used in the 4040 system). The amp has a upper midrange brightness which doesn’t work well with the 404 that has the same problem. The precursor to the 006t (the SRM-T1) is a much better sounding amp. If you can get the Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro for a good price GO FOR IT!_

 

What would be a good price for both the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2 together?

 This combo would beat the pants off of a DT880 and a SOHA, right?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good price for both the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2 together?

 This combo would beat the pants off of a DT880 and a SOHA, right?_

 

Pricing is hard to call right now, as it's not clear yet whether the recent inflation is going to stabilize or drop back to old levels. I'd think of $600-700 as a good price for that combo, but some have gone for much more than that lately.

 Whether it would beat the pants off that dynamic rig-- well, yes, in all the ways we talk about here. Not in bass impact, though, the perpetual comment we have to make here. The kind of bass that is a sound you hear is something stats do tremendously well, they just don't excel at the kind of bass that is an air wave you feel. Punchy in the sense of tight and fast? Oh yes. In the sense of thumping? Stick with the Beyer.


----------



## milkpowder

Well I just sold a pair of Lambda Pros for 260 dollars so there is still hope out there for all you bargain hunters


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good price for both the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2 together?

 This combo would beat the pants off of a DT880 and a SOHA, right?_

 


 The Lambda Pro/SRM-1mk2 Pro will go between $500-900 depending on condition and the alignment of the stars. I'm a stat guy, I have not heard a dynamic headphone that has the transparency of a good stat (and I've owned a lot of dynamics... AKG K701, K1000, Senn HD-6XX).


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pricing is hard to call right now, as it's not clear yet whether the recent inflation is going to stabilize or drop back to old levels. I'd think of $600-700 as a good price for that combo, but some have gone for much more than that lately.

 Whether it would beat the pants off that dynamic rig-- well, yes, in all the ways we talk about here. Not in bass impact, though, the perpetual comment we have to make here. The kind of bass that is a sound you hear is something stats do tremendously well, they just don't excel at the kind of bass that is an air wave you feel. Punchy in the sense of tight and fast? Oh yes. In the sense of thumping? Stick with the Beyer._

 

I don't really care for bass that much as it is. 

 I especailly don't derive any pleasure from headphones that attempt to give bass impact.

 If I wanted that I could just pick up the remote and turn on my speakers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Detail, transparency are what I'm looking for and Stax seems to be the place to go for that.

 Thanks for the help!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I just sold a pair of Lambda Pros for 260 dollars so there is still hope out there for all you bargain hunters 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

$260 is not a bargain


----------



## shomie911

Well I saw these:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-404 is a much better headphone over all and I would take that over a Lambda Pro without any hesitation._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Me vote goes to the SR-404 as well (like 'd-cee' I also own both).
 Its a lot more balanced, and don't have the same midrange problem as the SR-Lambda Pro.

 With the bonus that its currently in production, and very easy to get a hold of. Compared to the SR-Lambda Pro which went out of production some 20 years ago, and most often sell for about the same money as the SR-404._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *d-cee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_where did you read this?

 I own the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-404 and it's quite the opposite.

 Lambda pros have a sucked out mid range and peaky, but articulate highs. 

 SR-404s fill in the mids and sound a lot more balanced, but on first listen don't sound as detailed, but in reality they're superior to the Lambda pros top to bottom._

 

After reading those posts I decided that the Lamda Pros probably have too different of a sound signature over the SRS-4040 system that I heard (and loved).

 So if I were to buy a used SR-404, what amp would be the best to pair them with?

 I've also heard that the SR-303s are virtually identical in sound to the SR-404s, so would buying the SR-303s for a cheaper price be a good idea as long as they sounded the same as the SR-404s?

 Keep in mind I'm looking for the best cost to performance.

 Thanks


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So if I were to buy a used SR-404, what amp would be the best to pair them with?

 I've also heard that the SR-303s are virtually identical in sound to the SR-404s, so would buying the SR-303s for a cheaper price be a good idea as long as they sounded the same as the SR-404s?

 Keep in mind I'm looking for the best cost to performance._

 

Go for what a bargain-fiend like Faust2D did, get an SR-303 and an SRM-1 mkII pro.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Go for what a bargain-fiend like Faust2D did, get an SR-303 and an SRM-1 mkII pro._

 

I'll have to keep my eye out for them.

 How much do the SR-303 go for used? And also the SRM-1/MK2 (without the Lamda Pros)?

 I'm can't wait to get my whole electrostat rig together, its been painful listening to my DT880s after I heard what true detail oriented headphones (earspeakers) sound like.


----------



## scompton

Here's pics of the headphone






 compared to my SR-5





 Here's the outside of the adapter. From the color, I would guess they're from the 70s





 Here's pics of the inside.











 I'm going to hook them up to my NAD amp to see if the problem is the Super T.


----------



## catscratch

I'm back in Team Stax. SR-007 MkII on the way, eta: Thursday.

 Rig will be 840c --> VP-20 --> SRD-7 Pro --> O2 MkII.

 And, I still have enough for a KGSS should the necessity arise. If it's all as good as I hope it will be, expect a lot of gear FS soon.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good price for both the Lamda Pros and the SRM-1/MK2 together?

 This combo would beat the pants off of a DT880 and a SOHA, right?_

 

about a month ago there was a set of Lambda pro/SRM-1MK2 on ebay, started at $600, and received only one bid. I was interested but got too busy. I'd guess $700~$750 will be a safe figure.

 A DT880/SOHA combo, if in the same used condition as a used usual Lambda pro/SRM-1MK2 set, will probably cost you $400.... Of course the $700 stax set should beat the pants off that $400 dynamic set.


----------



## scompton

I can get more sound out of my NAD amp than my Super T at work, no real surprise. However, the volume is a 3 o'clock to get somewhat listenable volume, and it sounds muffled. In comparison, with the SR-5 and SRD-7, I can't go past 10 o'clock without it being too loud.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can get more sound out of my NAD amp than my Super T at work, no real surprise. However, the volume is a 3 o'clock to get somewhat listenable volume, and it sounds muffled. In comparison, with the SR-5 and SRD-7, I can't go past 10 o'clock without it being too loud._

 

Let them play for a day or two, they might spring back to life. This happens to old stat, FV had similar problems with his PMB500.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about a month ago there was a set of Lambda pro/SRM-1MK2 on ebay, started at $600, and received only one bid. I was interested but got too busy. I'd guess $700~$750 will be a safe figure.

 A DT880/SOHA combo, if in the same used condition as a used usual Lambda pro/SRM-1MK2 set, will probably cost you $400.... Of course the $700 stax set should beat the pants off that $400 dynamic set. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I decided to go with the SR-303 and a SR-1 MK2 or one of the other SR-1 drivers after some help from the experts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And I already have the DT880s and I'm already commited to the SOHA. I'm not planning on selling them either because even though I thought the Stax were superior, theres something about the DT880s that I love.

 I want to have both so I never end up missing the other.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can get more sound out of my NAD amp than my Super T at work, no real surprise..._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let them play for a day or two, they might spring back to life. This happens to old stat, FV had similar problems with his PMB500._

 

Not only with the PMB500, which just needed to stretch their legs for a few hours, but I've also had this with my Superex and with the electrets on one of my pairs of K340. All three times, just letting them run for a number of hours cured the issue. I imagine that with the case of the PMB, it might also have been an issue with the transformer needing some time to get back into full working order after being on the shelf for some months. Even now, the Superex still need fifteen minutes or so just to get up to speed, while my Lambda or SR-X only need a couple of seconds to go through the same process. 

 Of course, scompton's problems might be more serious, but I'd try the let-er-run method before getting into any tinkering.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not only with the PMB500, which just needed to stretch their legs for a few hours, but I've also had this with my Superex and with the electrets on one of my pairs of K340. All three times, just letting them run for a number of hours cured the issue. I imagine that with the case of the PMB, it might also have been an issue with the transformer needing some time to get back into full working order after being on the shelf for some months. Even now, the Superex still need fifteen minutes or so just to get up to speed, while my Lambda or SR-X only need a couple of seconds to go through the same process. 

 Of course, scompton's problems might be more serious, but I'd try the let-er-run method before getting into any tinkering._

 

My Stagnavox, as well, needed about a day to start sounding their best.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm back in Team Stax. SR-007 MkII on the way, eta: Thursday.

 Rig will be 840c --> VP-20 --> SRD-7 Pro --> O2 MkII.

 And, I still have enough for a KGSS should the necessity arise. If it's all as good as I hope it will be, expect a lot of gear FS soon._

 

Welcome back to the stat side. I hope you like O2 II better then your SR-404


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not only with the PMB500, which just needed to stretch their legs for a few hours, but I've also had this with my Superex and with the electrets on one of my pairs of K340. All three times, just letting them run for a number of hours cured the issue. I imagine that with the case of the PMB, it might also have been an issue with the transformer needing some time to get back into full working order after being on the shelf for some months. Even now, the Superex still need fifteen minutes or so just to get up to speed, while my Lambda or SR-X only need a couple of seconds to go through the same process. 

 Of course, scompton's problems might be more serious, but I'd try the let-er-run method before getting into any tinkering._

 

I ran them for over 16 hours last night off of the Super T. I've got them set up to run until tomorrow night. Hopefully that will do it. Do self biasing adapters also need to be run for hours if they've sat for years?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ran them for over 16 hours last night off of the Super T. I've got them set up to run until tomorrow night. Hopefully that will do it. Do self biasing adapters also need to be run for hours if they've sat for years?_

 

16 hours is quite a bit. Is there no improvement in the sound levels? The adapter might need time if it has, say, electrolytic caps inside, or other parts that need use to work properly. If there's no improvement by tomorrow, it's time to clean all the contacts and take a good look at the innards of the energizer. You may be S.O.L., as my dad would say.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_16 hours is quite a bit. Is there no improvement in the sound levels? The adapter might need time if it has, say, electrolytic caps inside, or other parts that need use to work properly. If there's no improvement by tomorrow, it's time to clean all the contacts and take a good look at the innards of the energizer. You may be S.O.L., as my dad would say._

 

There's improvement. It made no sound at all when I first plugged it in. I'm hoping the Super T didn't have the juice to get it charged up from dead.

 If the adapter is dead, I might be able to reterminate it and try it from my SRD-7, assuming it's an SR-3 clone.


----------



## wualta

I was wondering who'd buy those. The DIN connector looks more like something Audio-Technica or (shudder) Micro-Seiki would use than the connector on any Stax clone I've ever seen. Let's hope they're not Micro-Seiki.

 FV is right-- the self-bias circuit uses a capacitor to build up and hold the bias voltage, so if that's dead, and it might very well be at this late date, replace it. Does the speakers/headphone switch work without drama?

 Could also be blown overvoltage-protection devices.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome back to the stat side. I hope you like O2 II better then your SR-404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did like a lot of things about the SR-404. It was the midrange that killed them for me, and it doesn't seem that the O2 suffers from the midrange issues.

 If it wasn't for the midrange, and a touch of overall brightness, I'd be using the SR-404 to this day and would be quite happy with it. I think the 4070 would be a headphone that I would like quite a bit as well - but I went in for the O2 seeing how I like a fuller/lusher sound more than a leaner, more analytical sound.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was wondering who'd buy those. The DIN connector looks more like something Audio-Technica or (shudder) Micro-Seiki would use than the connector on any Stax clone I've ever seen. Let's hope they're not Micro-Seiki.

 FV is right-- the self-bias circuit uses a capacitor to build up and hold the bias voltage, so if that's dead, and it might very well be at this late date, replace it. Does the speakers/headphone switch work without drama?

 Could also be blown overvoltage-protection devices._

 

These are definitely not made by Stax but the only Micro Seiki OEM I know about is the Infinity model in tasty red... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 These could have been made by either Fontek, Azden or some other even more obscure manufacturer. 

 The caps could have gone bad or one of the diodes so check those first. Can you also post better pictures of the bias supplies so we can try and figure out what bias these use?


----------



## scompton

After letting them run overnight, there's no more problem. I could here them from 10 feet away. I haven't had time to listen more that to see that they don't sound muffled at all. I'll listen some more this evening. I'll also take apart the headphone and take pictures.

 There's no problem at all with the phone/speaker switch. Cuts on and off with no static. I think these were stored well. There's no dust and the ear pads are still soft and supple with not flaking

  Quote:


 Can you also post better pictures of the bias supplies so we can try and figure out what bias these use? 
 

Since this is the first time I've taken apart an adapter, I'm not sure what the bias supply is. Which parts do I need to take a picture of. There are 3 boards. Two are identical with a couple of caps, some big, grey resistors, some small resistors, small transformers, and some other small parts that I'm not sure of. The 3rd board has some small caps and resistors and maybe some more, it's so close to the transformers that it's hard to see what's on it. I assume the boards just slide out. I tried gently tugging them and they didn't budge, but I don't see any screws holding them in. It looks like they wedged in slots in the plastic.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After letting them run overnight, there's no more problem. I could here them from 10 feet away. I haven't had time to listen more that to see that they don't sound muffled at all. I'll listen some more this evening. I'll also take apart the headphone and take pictures.

 There's no problem at all with the phone/speaker switch. Cuts on and off with no static. I think these were stored well. There's no dust and the ear pads are still soft and supple with not flaking


 Since this is the first time I've taken apart an adapter, I'm not sure what the bias supply is. Which parts do I need to take a picture of. There are 3 boards. Two are identical with a couple of caps, some big, grey resistors, some small resistors, small transformers, and some other small parts that I'm not sure of. The 3rd board has some small caps and resistors and maybe some more, it's so close to the transformers that it's hard to see what's on it. I assume the boards just slide out. I tried gently tugging them and they didn't budge, but I don't see any screws holding them in. It looks like they wedged in slots in the plastic._

 

As I suspected, electrolytic caps in the transformer box needed time to come to life. FV encountered exactly the same problem. I bet the phones as well need time to fully charge and come back into working regime. I remember reading about SR-007 that exhibited similar problems after being stored for some time.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since this is the first time I've taken apart an adapter, I'm not sure what the bias supply is. Which parts do I need to take a picture of. There are 3 boards. Two are identical with a couple of caps, some big, grey resistors, some small resistors, small transformers, and some other small parts that I'm not sure of. The 3rd board has some small caps and resistors and maybe some more, it's so close to the transformers that it's hard to see what's on it. I assume the boards just slide out. I tried gently tugging them and they didn't budge, but I don't see any screws holding them in. It looks like they wedged in slots in the plastic._

 

The bias supplies are on the two boards which contain the mini transformers. They are most likely screwed in somewhere. I'm guessing that the bias supplies are fed off the audio transformer secondaries and then stepped up again to to have a stable but limited with double zeners, back to back.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bias supplies are on the two boards which contain the mini transformers. They are most likely screwed in somewhere. I'm guessing that the bias supplies are fed off the audio transformer secondaries and then stepped up again to to have a stable but limited with double zeners, back to back._

 

After doing a web search for pics of diodes, the parts I didn't know on the 2 boards are diodes. I'll see If I can get a pic this evening. 

 What determines the bias voltage, the small transformers?

 I was able to see the values on the caps and large resistors.

 4.7 micro Farads for the 2 caps per board
 4 ohms for the 2 smaller grey resistors
 50 ohms for the 1 large grey resistor

 I'll have to look up how to read the bands on the smaller resistors if that's important.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear this HE90 "horrible imaging" comment from you and a few other people on Russian boards. How does imaging on HE90 compares to Lambda and Sigma series?_

 

I don't think "horrible imaging" is an accurate description of the HE90. Its imaging isn't as ultra-precise as the O2Mk1's or O2Mk2's, but it also has a larger headstage and soundstage to work with.

 An analogy might be watching a video on a 42" flat-screen vs. a 24" desktop monitor. The picture on the 24" monitor might seem a bit sharper and more detailed because you're only sitting three feet away. But you don't have the benefit of the more expansive experience of watching the 42" screen from 12-15 feet away.

 Ultimately for me, every quality (imaging, soundstage, details, bass impact, etc.) is important. Most important is how the headphone sounds as a whole. For example, I value details very highly, more than bass impact or soundstage size. But the Qualia 010, one of the most detailed headphones I've heard and arguably the most detailed one of all, isn't my favorite. It isn't even in the "Top 5." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm hopeful another amp might increase the headstage and soundstage of the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2. Even a tiny little bit will make a big difference for me. At this point, I'm finding tiny incremental improvements to be difficult to achieve.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think "horrible imaging" is an accurate description of the HE90. Its imaging isn't as ultra-precise as the O2Mk1's or O2Mk2's, but it also has a larger headstage and soundstage to work with.

 An analogy might be watching a video on a 42" flat-screen vs. a 20" desktop monitor. The picture on the 20" monitor might seem a bit sharper and more detailed because you're only sitting three feet away. But you don't have the benefit of the more expansive experience of watching the 42" screen from 12 feet away.

 Ultimately for me, every quality (imaging, soundstage, details, bass impact, etc.) is important. Most important is how the headphone sounds as a whole. For example, I value details very highly, more than bass impact or soundstage size. But the Qualia 010, one of the most detailed headphones I've heard and arguably the most detailed one of all, isn't my favorite. It isn't even in the "Top 5." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm hopeful another amp might increase the headstage and soundstage of the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2. Even a tiny little bit will make a big difference for me. At this point, I'm finding tiny incremental improvements to be difficult to achieve._

 

Thanks for you impressions. How does imaging on HE90 compares to Lambda and Sigma series?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After doing a web search for pics of diodes, the parts I didn't know on the 2 boards are diodes. I'll see If I can get a pic this evening. 

 What determines the bias voltage, the small transformers?

 I was able to see the values on the caps and large resistors.

 4.7 micro Farads for the 2 caps per board
 4 ohms for the 2 smaller grey resistors
 50 ohms for the 1 large grey resistor

 I'll have to look up how to read the bands on the smaller resistors if that's important._

 

Diodes should be similar to resistors in shape and size but all black and with a white band on them for polarity. 

 The large resistors are to limit the current input so they should burn up before the transformers. The small resistors tell us more as some of them are the ballast resistors for the diaphragms which control the amount of charge which is present on the diaphragms. 

 The small transformers step up the voltage from the audio transformers which is then fed to, given the number of small caps, a half way rectified voltage doubler. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think "horrible imaging" is an accurate description of the HE90. Its imaging isn't as ultra-precise as the O2Mk1's or O2Mk2's, but it also has a larger headstage and soundstage to work with.

 An analogy might be watching a video on a 42" flat-screen vs. a 24" desktop monitor. The picture on the 24" monitor might seem a bit sharper and more detailed because you're only sitting three feet away. But you don't have the benefit of the more expansive experience of watching the 42" screen from 12-15 feet away.

 Ultimately for me, every quality (imaging, soundstage, details, bass impact, etc.) is important. Most important is how the headphone sounds as a whole. For example, I value details very highly, more than bass impact or soundstage size. But the Qualia 010, one of the most detailed headphones I've heard and arguably the most detailed one of all, isn't my favorite. It isn't even in the "Top 5." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm hopeful another amp might increase the headstage and soundstage of the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2. Even a tiny little bit will make a big difference for me. At this point, I'm finding tiny incremental improvements to be difficult to achieve._

 

I could live with the large soundstage (I do like the Sigmas) but the lack of focus is what seals the deal for me. In the end this will always be a personal choice and there are other issues that made me almost never use them except out of guilt. 

 The soundstage will grow with the BH but don't expect any miracles. You should also experiment with some IC's, preferably silver, so see if the sound can't open up a bit. 

 Btw. Have you tried swapping the input cables on the Aristaeus while using the HE90? Put on some close miked pop recored and hear how the soundstage is altered.


----------



## Elephas

OK, I'll do the RCA left right swap on the Aristaeus and see how the HE90 reacts.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for you impressions. How does imaging on HE90 compares to Lambda and Sigma series?_

 

Whoa, that was fast! I edited to make it a 24" monitor (widescreen is better) and you've already posted.

 I've never heard the Sigma. My Lambda Pro was modifed by Headphile with a wood housing, so I can't say I've heard a stock Lambda Pro either.

 The HE90's imaging is not so bad to me. I would rank it below the 4070 and SR-Omega, and about the same as the SR-SC1 and Headphile Lambda Pro.

 The HE90's best quality to me is its ease of presentation. Unlike the 4070, which makes me feel like I'm "monitoring" sound, the HE90 makes me feel like I'm listening to music.

 More than the selection of tubes in the Aristaeus, the source can make a large difference in imaging precision, as well as other factors. Adding the Esoteric G-03X made a significant improvement in this area.


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda Pro was modifed by Headphile with a wood housing, so I can't say I've heard a stock Lambda Pro either._

 

Wow! That sounds interesting. How does it sound? Not that I would ever do that to my almost pristine Lambda Pros.


----------



## Elephas

I listened to a couple of tracks with the left and right RCA inputs swapped on the Aristaeus with the HE90. It seemed to me there was deterioration in imaging, kind of like it was out of phase. It also didn't sound as clear. A yucky experience.

 I think the Headphile Lambda Pro sounds good, but it's actually my least favorite of all the electrostats, and I prefer several dynamics more (please don't hurt me, Stax Mafia, they're good dynamics: Qualia, R10 etc.) 

 I would rank it below the Airbow SR-SC1. I don't have an SR-404, but based on my unreliable audio memory I would also rank the Headphile Lambda Pro below the SR-404.


----------



## Asr

Below is the amp I was originally planning to use with my vision of an OII MKII, until CanJam '08 happened and I heard the Blue Hawaii SE. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I figured I would at least photograph it since I didn't get to hear it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











 

 


 (click for larger versions)


----------



## Faust2D

I have a chance to get Stax ELS-F81X speakers for a good price. Any info on these? Anyone heard them?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a chance to get Stax ELS-F81X speakers for a good price. Any info on these? Anyone heard them?_

 

There fantastic. Some people call them the "Quad ESL-57 of Japan". They won't play loud or have deep bass. Make sure the panels are not arced.


----------



## scompton

More pics of the Playback 70

 Here's the driver. The cup is filled with open cell foam, so effectively no damping





 Here's a pic of the board that there are 2 of. The caps are 4.7 micro F. The small resistor is 3 ohms, if I'm reading it right. BTW, the boards were just shoved snuggly in to slots





 Here's the single board. I'm not sure what color the first band is in the middle resistor


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There fantastic. Some people call them the "Quad ESL-57 of Japan". They won't play loud or have deep bass. Make sure the panels are not arced._

 

I will take them home for a listen before buying. Now I need to make a trip to New England, oh boy.


----------



## Dutchess of York

Just a quick question from someone looking to get into the Stax game: What should i expect to pay for used Lamda Pros + SRM mk2? Is this a good jumping in point?


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dutchess of York* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick question from someone looking to get into the Stax game: What should i expect to pay for used Lamda Pros + SRM mk2? Is this a good jumping in point?_

 

I know it's tough to go through this whole thread but if you try searching it you'll probably find several mentions of the same question.

 That being said that was my jumping in point. I paid $600 for the pair. The guy who sold them to me - a reputable Head-Fi member - told me he bought them from somebody who told him it was NOS. The equipment is certainly in excellent condition with the original boxes. Someone else posted that you can expect to pay between $400-$700 depending on the condition.

 Is it a good jumping in point in terms of sound quality? Let's put it this way, the combo rivals, and is in many ways better than, my PR II amp with dedicated power supply (about a $500 value) and my Proline 750s, SA-5000 or HF-1s. I'd say it sounds pretty darn good.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did like a lot of things about the SR-404. It was the midrange that killed them for me, and it doesn't seem that the O2 suffers from the midrange issues.

 If it wasn't for the midrange, and a touch of overall brightness, I'd be using the SR-404 to this day and would be quite happy with it. I think the 4070 would be a headphone that I would like quite a bit as well - but I went in for the O2 seeing how I like a fuller/lusher sound more than a leaner, more analytical sound._

 

I found that the 404 upper midrange is very sensitive to source problems. Also using Silclear on the IC's phone jacks and power plugs made them pretty near perfect with both my SRM3 and 717 amps which run off both expesnive and cheap cd players.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a chance to get Stax ELS-F81X speakers for a good price. Any info on these? Anyone heard them?_

 

They are supposed to be great, even better then the Quad ESL at some aspects but huge issues with the design. Stax used unprotected metal plates for stators so if they are pushed too hard they will arc, badly. I've heard reports that the diaphragms are like cheese on some units... That being said, buy them and I'll take them off your hands if you don't like them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not kidding... I need to start my ESL collection somewhere...


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that the 404 upper midrange is very sensitive to source problems. Also using Silclear on the IC's phone jacks and power plugs made them pretty near perfect with both my SRM3 and 717 amps which run off both expesnive and cheap cd players._

 

I can believe that. Mating it with a source that has the reverse coloration in the midrange will neutralize it, and of course more raw resolution won't hurt either. I only ever ran mine off the Rega so I didn't have a chance to experiment with sources while I still had it.


----------



## coldkeith

Wondering if anyone can recommend cdp for 303 or 404?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are supposed to be great, even better then the Quad ESL at some aspects but huge issues with the design. Stax used unprotected metal plates for stators so if they are pushed too hard they will arc, badly. I've heard reports that the diaphragms are like cheese on some units... That being said, buy them and I'll take them off your hands if you don't like them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not kidding... I need to start my ESL collection somewhere..._

 

I doubt that these were pushed to hard. They were used by an old audiophile, who owned a audio store. Now he is dead and his son is thinking of selling most of his personal collection of speakers. Theres is a not of cool stuff there, some already sold, but no one want the Stax at 73dB they are hard to push. Did all ELS-F81 models have the arching issue? I don't remember the exact model, it was ELS-F81 something.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dutchess of York* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick question from someone looking to get into the Stax game: What should i expect to pay for used Lamda Pros + SRM mk2? Is this a good jumping in point?_

 

$5-800 I would say.
 Depending on condition and you luck.

 I paid $450 for my system (8/10 condition, with boxes, cables, ..) a little over a year ago.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt that these were pushed to hard. They were used by an old audiophile, who owned a audio store. Now he is dead and his son is thinking of selling most of his personal collection of speakers. Theres is a not of cool stuff there, some already sold, but no one want the Stax at 73dB they are hard to push. Did all ELS-F81 models have the arching issue? I don't remember the exact model, it was ELS-F81 something._

 

In the hands of somebody that new about their faults they should have been fine. The problem is that novice users saw the low sensitivity rating and used amps which were in no way compatible. A good 40W tube amp is all you need to have them singing. 

 From what I've been able to gather, all the F models used the same drivers, only more of them in the larger variations so they all share the same risks. It could have been ESL-F81X but I don't know how the X version differentiated from the original. .


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *coldkeith* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wondering if anyone can recommend cdp for 303 or 404?_

 

I run several systems with large differences in cdp or cdp/dac cost and frankly in terms of cost effectiveness the best thing I have done was to replace my Monster Cable 950 IC's with silver ics. 

 I bought several of these ic's from various sources and I can't recall which one I was listening with last night.. The cdp was, a Sherwood Newcastle which cost about $200 2 years or so back. The headphone amp was a Stax SRM3 amp, about 10 years old and not considered one of the classics and then the Stax 404 phones. As other tweaks I have sorbethane footers under the cdp and amp and an upgraded $60.00 power cable on the SRM3 amp.

 As I noted above everything is also touched up with Silclear contact enhancer which got rid of much of the edge of the 404, but it was the 2/3 m silver ic's with Eichman bullet plugs that really pulled this sytem up. The ic's were about $130.00 vs $95.00 for the Monsters and are so much better. The sound is smooth, warm, detailed, non-fatiguing and dynamic. Recall that many people complain about the "politeness" of some Stax set-ups.

 This is not to say that better cdp's will not give a better result, but in terms of cost effectiveness, it was the ic that did the job.


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One more question. Can I charge up the SR-202 through the SRM-212, then plug it into my SRD-7, to simulate a pro bias transformer box for a short time? Could it damage the 'phones or adaptor?_

 

Spritzer, thanks for answering this question for me. I'm still concerned, though, that I might damage something trying this. Forgive my extremely vague understanding of the electrical principles involved...

 The driver is a capacitor that stores the bias voltage, right? So if it's charged up at 580v, then is connected to a bias supply at 230v, could that partially discharge the capacitor, damaging phones or amp?

 EDIT:

 Also, I scored a way overspec'd, adjustable voltage Acopian power supply on Ebay. The downside is I'll need to rig up both AC and DC cables myself. Will share more info (and perhaps ask questions) when I have everything together.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

What is the optimal bias voltage for the HE60? What bias does the HEV70 supply?

 Thanks!


----------



## yale.reinstein

Okay, I really don't know what I need. I have my 2050A on the way and I've been calling around for power supplies.

 The only way I can get a reversed polarity supply without moding one myself would be to get a regulated universal adapter, 1A model for around ~15 dollars. 

 Isn't regulated what I don't want?

 Edit: I've called over 5 places now, I think I need to find something to order online, it just seems like a very rare power supply, and it would be even rarer if it was inverted.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the optimal bias voltage for the HE60? What bias does the HEV70 supply?_

 

540 volts, afaik. For both the HE60 and HE90


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dutchess of York* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick question from someone looking to get into the Stax game: What should i expect to pay for used Lamda Pros + SRM mk2? Is this a good jumping in point?_

 

SR-Lambda Pro and SRM-1/MK2 system in the FS forum for $600.


----------



## milkpowder

It's definitely 540V for HE60, but I remember the HEV90 only works at 500V.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I really don't know what I need. I have my 2050A on the way and I've been calling around for power supplies._

 

Here's an excellent supply for the SRM-252 which I highly recommend:

KingRex PSU

 Note that you MUST reverse the polarity by cutting and resplicing the supplied cable or by making a new cable.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I really don't know what I need. I have my 2050A on the way and I've been calling around for power supplies.

 The only way I can get a reversed polarity supply without moding one myself would be to get a regulated universal adapter, 1A model for around ~15 dollars. 

 Isn't regulated what I don't want?

 Edit: I've called over 5 places now, I think I need to find something to order online, it just seems like a very rare power supply, and it would be even rarer if it was inverted._

 

If you search back in this thread, you'll find that I got myself a beefier power supply (a bench PS) for my 2020 (forerunner of the 2050) and it did not sound any better than the (unregulated) wallwart that came with my SRM-212.

 I think that, as long as you spend at least $20 on a decent (regulated) wallwart PS, that has at least 1A output at 12V, you'll be fine (and these all come with reversible power pins, or a reversible polarity switch, so no cutting and re-terminating the plug is necessary).


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dutchess of York* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick question from someone looking to get into the Stax game: What should i expect to pay for used Lamda Pros + SRM mk2? Is this a good jumping in point?_

 

Bidding on one at EBAY???


----------



## Downrange

Just pay close attention to the polarity. Buy a little multimeter, learn how to use it to read positive vs. negative DC voltage, and triple check your wiring. PS doesn't make all that much diff, as the 2050 system draws very little current, even on peaks (which is when you turn it on, actually.) I probably wouldn't spend over 30 bucks or so for a power supply, and, really, you could just cut the wires on the included Stax PS and cross them. CHECK WITH METER TO MAKE SURE YOU GOT IT RIGHT!

 Love my 2020 system...


----------



## evil-zen

Just bought a pair of O2A. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Will be another one of those running it through SRD-7mk2 and a Panasonic digital amp. Amazing value for running both my speakers and Stax. 

 Elephas and spritzer, are there any new listening impressions regarding the Mk1 vs Mk2? I hope I didn't make a bad choice in choosing the Mk2/A versions.


----------



## milkpowder

Oh my goodness. Everyone has an O2A now. I'm feeling left out. You wait and see...


----------



## evil-zen

BTW, held a mini meet with my friend few weeks back. The Stax Gamma Pro trashed the Sennheiser HD600 in everything. Bass is surprisingly deeper and tighter than the Sennheiser. So much for electrostatics not being able to produce DEEP bass.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought a pair of O2A. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will be another one of those running it through SRD-7mk2 and a Panasonic digital amp._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The number of SR-007A and MK2 units around here seems to rise rapidly these days.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my goodness. Everyone has an O2A now. I'm feeling left out. You wait and see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Perhaps not. 

 If the rumours are correct Stax are possibly working on a new high end phone, so it might be better to wait. 
 Are the MKII's really that much of an improvement over the Omega II? 

 I think the O2A's are really just a very small incremental improvement to what is quite an old, but excellent design.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my goodness. Everyone has an O2A now. I'm feeling left out. You wait and see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Just remember to get a set of the Mk1 pads so that you can get the best sound out of the headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps not. 

 If the rumours are correct Stax are possibly working on a new high end phone, so it might be better to wait. 
 Are the MKII's really that much of an improvement over the Omega II? 

 I think the O2A's are really just a very small incremental improvement to what is quite an old, but excellent design._

 


 Stax will of course be R&D on new products but I want to see these rumours for myself tbh. Waiting for a new product can be silly. If someone looked at the gap between the Omega 1 and the Omega 2 and concluded the Omega 3 would be coming soon, he'd still have been waiting a few years before the O2Mk2 arrived.

 The O2 is selling well and Stax is making money, they're in no rush to replace their TOTL model, same as Sennheiser with the HD650.


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my goodness. Everyone has an O2A now. I'm feeling left out. You wait and see... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

+1 . . . and it's already been a bad year for my wallet.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just remember to get a set of the Mk1 pads so that you can get the best sound out of the headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Stax will of course be R&D on new products but I want to see these rumours for myself tbh. Waiting for a new product can be silly. If someone looked at the gap between the Omega 1 and the Omega 2 and concluded the Omega 3 would be coming soon, he'd still have been waiting a few years before the O2Mk2 arrived.

 The O2 is selling well and Stax is making money, they're in no rush to replace their TOTL model, same as Sennheiser with the HD650._

 

Just quoting what one headfier said he was told by the Stax rep at CanJam08. Its in the thread. My just be wishfull thinking! 
 However the OMKII really is not such a great advance on what we have, its just a kicker in the product lifecycle. The O2 was and still is a great headphone, perhaps the greatest there is period in electrostatics.
 One also needs to think where the likes of Stax, Sennheiser, AKG et alt will be putting their R&D $'s. Two channel hi-fi has been on the decline for some years and with the rise of the ipod, MP3, home theatre are we going to see the larger manufactures developing high end flag ship headphones in the future?


----------



## Duggeh

I'd like to see Stax devise another portable system, the SR-001 is a lovely headphone but they need to come up with a closed back version for better isolation. Even if that means sacrificing the (more than slightly tricky) IEM fit option. The headband is tiny anyway. 

 I'm not sure how much smaller you could make a portable electrostatic amp though without using a built in Li-ion battery. Size is in great part determined by the need to fit a small transformer in there somewhere so its never going to be super thin. And Apple isn't ever going to stick an SR-001 socket on the iPod.

 This makes me miss my SR-001. I'm finding myself looking at the Orthodome in disappointment.

 Whats the difference in the Mk2 version anyway, I've never even seen a Mk1.


----------



## milkpowder

They also need to refine the stupid ear-drill design. I seem to remember the Mk1 being the version without the headband. Goodness knows how _anyone_ managed to get them to stay put without much pain.


----------



## Duggeh

I could get them to sit IEM style fine and comfortably once I worked out the particular "little twist" technique. I did much prefer to wear them with the headband though. On the MK.3 I'd like to see the input socket on the top instead of the side. Theres room if you move or remove the power and low battery LEDs.


----------



## HDen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The number of SR-007A and MK2 units around here seems to rise rapidly these days._

 

I just hope this doesn't raise their prices...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought a pair of O2A. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will be another one of those running it through SRD-7mk2 and a Panasonic digital amp. Amazing value for running both my speakers and Stax. 

 Elephas and spritzer, are there any new listening impressions regarding the Mk1 vs Mk2? I hope I didn't make a bad choice in choosing the Mk2/A versions._

 

I've had way too much stuff going on lately for any solid impressions but i might just use them for a bit of gaming later tonight... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bass hump still annoys me but they are easier to live with the Mk1 but based on sound quality alone the Mk1 is still the best you can get. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps not. 

 If the rumours are correct Stax are possibly working on a new high end phone, so it might be better to wait. 
 Are the MKII's really that much of an improvement over the Omega II? 

 I think the O2A's are really just a very small incremental improvement to what is quite an old, but excellent design._

 

They are of course designing new stuff but with the massive sales of the SR-007 we will have to wait a long time before anything new comes along. 

 The Mk2 is meant to fix some of the issues that the Mk1 faced and also make the RoHS compliant which the Mk1 isn't. An improvement they are not in sound but much easier to live with and work better with lesser energizers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to see Stax devise another portable system, the SR-001 is a lovely headphone but they need to come up with a closed back version for better isolation. Even if that means sacrificing the (more than slightly tricky) IEM fit option. The headband is tiny anyway. 

 I'm not sure how much smaller you could make a portable electrostatic amp though without using a built in Li-ion battery. Size is in great part determined by the need to fit a small transformer in there somewhere so its never going to be super thin. And Apple isn't ever going to stick an SR-001 socket on the iPod.

 This makes me miss my SR-001. I'm finding myself looking at the Orthodome in disappointment.

 Whats the difference in the Mk2 version anyway, I've never even seen a Mk1._

 

The Mk1 had a 2.5um film and plastic supports for the stators so they can be identified by simply looking at them but you have to know what to look for. 

 I don't see any reason why a small, supra aural phone can't be made closed by venting the driver in a similar way to the 4070. The drivers wouldn't be very large but it's always a trade off with portable headphones.


----------



## J-Pak

I should have my Omega 2 MK1 sometime next week


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bass hump still annoys me but they are easier to live with the Mk1 but based on sound quality alone the Mk1 is still the best you can get._

 

I agree! The mk2 sounds fine until I put on the mk1. I also have the same midbass hump and not as open on top.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree! The mk2 sounds fine until I put on the mk1. I also have the same midbass hump and not as open on top._

 

I opened up my SR-007A's tonight and I believe I've found the "port" which is causing at least part of the bass issues. It's a small notch above the cable entry on the inside of the substructure which together with the loose fit of the cable superstructure provides and airpath out of the ear chamber. 

 Above is the SR-007A and below the only picture I have of the Mk1:


----------



## milkpowder

So what was supposed to be a solution to one problem - "Stax fart" - worked, but introduced another problem - bass hump, this one more annoying than the last? I never found the SR-007 particularly flatulent
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, would dust be able to make its way into the drivers and wreck havoc, or is there some dust screen which you removed?


----------



## sango

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I opened up my SR-007A's tonight and I believe I've found the "port" which is causing at least part of the bass issues. It's a small notch above the cable entry on the inside of the substructure which together with the loose fit of the cable superstructure provides and airpath out of the ear chamber. 

 Above is the SR-007A and below the only picture I have of the Mk1:








_

 

wow.. that's a brave thing to do.. :/


----------



## Duggeh

Its not dangerous if your careful. Getting the pads back on is a seriously tricky task though. I had to use a palette knife.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HDen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just hope this doesn't raise their prices..._

 

Hardly!
 At least as long as they stay in production.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to see Stax devise another portable system, the SR-001 is a lovely headphone but they need to come up with a closed back version for better isolation. Even if that means sacrificing the (more than slightly tricky) IEM fit option. The headband is tiny anyway._

 

I had to let my SR-001MK2 go because of the lack of sound isolation.
 If Stax ever release a closed-back portable system I would be the first one to buy it. That would be awesome indeed.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what was supposed to be a solution to one problem - "Stax fart" - worked, but introduced another problem - bass hump, this one more annoying than the last? I never found the SR-007 particularly flatulent
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, would dust be able to make its way into the drivers and wreck havoc, or is there some dust screen which you removed?_

 

That's basically it. The Mk1 was a no compromise solution to create the best headphone in the world and they decided to scale back with the Mk2 to make them easier to live with. If I find some white bluetack I might try and plug the port and see what happens. 

 There is a dustcover but you just can't see it. The only thing I removed to take those pictures is the backplate for the earpads which also holds the driver capsule in place. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sango* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow.. that's a brave thing to do.. :/_

 

The brave part came after this. I have a normal bias Lambda driver which fell apart in front of my eyes so I broke it down to it's 3 elements, scraped off all the old glue and I'm now gluing it back together. There is not a whole lot of wiggle room with a D/S gap of 0.3mm... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax must have special pieces to glue the drivers in as they don't want to stay together, at all. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its not dangerous if your careful. Getting the pads back on is a seriously tricky task though. I had to use a palette knife._

 

The pads are epic but the new leather models are easier to work with since they are taller and the flap is looser.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk1 was a no compromise solution to create the best headphone in the world and they decided to scale back with the Mk2 to make them easier to live with._

 

You really think the Mk1 was a no-compromise solution? Of course it had compromises, just like any other headphone. Cost was definitely a factor. The driver housings' lack of pivoting or other adjustments which may affect the universality of fit on various types of heads is a compromise. The need for a minimum amount of clamping force is another compromise.

 I don't consider the Mk2 a "scaled back" version of the Mk1.

 Think what you will of the O2Mk1 vs. O2Mk2, but I think these absolutist-type "pronouncements" often mislead and confuse many less experienced head-fiers.

 Personally, I don't think there is any one "Best Headphone," any "Best Amp for the O2" or even that electrostats are better than dynamics. Of course, I have my preferences, but I would never assume that what I like best is actually better or "the best."


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or even that electrostats are better than dynamics._

 

I believe *that one* is true


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe *that one* is true 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You really think the Mk1 was a no-compromise solution? Of course it had compromises, just like any other headphone. Cost was definitely a factor. The driver housings' lack of pivoting or other adjustments which may affect the universality of fit on various types of heads is a compromise. The need for a minimum amount of clamping force is another compromise.

 I don't consider the Mk2 a "scaled back" version of the Mk1.

 Think what you will of the O2Mk1 vs. O2Mk2, but I think these absolutist-type "pronouncements" often mislead and confuse many less experienced head-fiers.

 Personally, I don't think there is any one "Best Headphone," any "Best Amp for the O2" or even that electrostats are better than dynamics. Of course, I have my preferences, but I would never assume that what I like best is actually better or "the best."_

 

I think that Spritzers point about no compromises was that there were no compromises made towards the design of the headband or fit for the sake of more readily universal fit in order to obtain, when fit was adjusted correctly, the best sound possible.

 The fact is that this aspect of individual fit to the users head (most commonly typified here by the Qualia 010) is not the way to go forward in a market where some or most buyers of the O2 are not doing this and are just slapping them on comfy. The MK2 is a more plug and play design in order to strike a wider fit ratio than the Mk1. The changes in the swivel system to be more rigid also reflect this.

 I wouldn't say that electrostatics are the be-all-end-all over dynamics either. Got to leave room for AMT and piezo and ortho 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I own a couple of dynamic headphones though and wouldn't keep them if I didn't enjoy listening to them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You really think the Mk1 was a no-compromise solution? Of course it had compromises, just like any other headphone. Cost was definitely a factor. The driver housings' lack of pivoting or other adjustments which may affect the universality of fit on various types of heads is a compromise. The need for a minimum amount of clamping force is another compromise.

 I don't consider the Mk2 a "scaled back" version of the Mk1.

 Think what you will of the O2Mk1 vs. O2Mk2, but I think these absolutist-type "pronouncements" often mislead and confuse many less experienced head-fiers.

 Personally, I don't think there is any one "Best Headphone," any "Best Amp for the O2" or even that electrostats are better than dynamics. Of course, I have my preferences, but I would never assume that what I like best is actually better or "the best."_

 

Doug pretty much answered for me but you are getting this all wrong so I should clarify things. The fact that they don't swivel and can fart like crazy is a true sign that the engineers only cared about the best sound they could produce and to hell with everything else. 

 There is no swivel mount since they are a compromise by not producing enough tension to hold the phones securely. The key to the SR-007 design is to control the size of air pocket in front of the driver and that can't be done with a swivel mount properly. This makes them image like a supra aural yet in a comfortable circum aural package. 

 As with all planar drivers the earpads need to make a seal but the SR-007 took this concept to the extreme by trapping the air inside. This means that the bass output can be tightly controlled by altering the tension of the diaphragm for the given cavity. They backed off with the Mk2 and now we have plenty off boom, boom but where it the amazing extension and control of the Mk1? This makes them easier to like for more inexperienced listeners but I don't like it. 

 Saying that they compromised as to cost is true as that is the case with everything built by man but saying that the PCB based stators are a way to cut costs is simply idiotic and shows a clear lack of understanding as to what the engineers are dealing with. The mesh stators on the SR-Ω were just simply a bad idea and the same goes for the glass they used on the He90. To create a good stator you need something that is very thin, has a low resonance frequency, is very stiff and can be perforated. This then has to be made in the thousands rather cheaply and PCB material is perfect for the job. Quad used it with great success and the only better way would be wires but that isn't really an option with headphone drivers as the wires would have to be so very thin. Metal plates aren't really good and need to be damped by powder coating them as Stax is doing with the current Lambda drivers but they are much cheaper then the PCB's so they are still used. 

 The SR-007 is the best to me as it's the best design by far and no other ESP can pull off the same things such as bass control, detail and sound staging. Whether or not you like them is a different matter altogether and should never be confused with technical capabilities. It takes experience to know when something is really better and not just different and most audiophiles lack just that. I'm not saying that personal choice isn't a big factor but experience is often overlooked.


----------



## Elephas

I agree that the non-swivel housings and the fart probably means that the designers made these trade-offs for very good reasons, most likely sound quality. But the non-swivel housings along with the fixed-width headband means that there might be less flexibility to fit various sized and shaped heads. The design might be "no-compromise" for those who find the SR-007 to fit very well, but it is definitely a compromise for others who have less than optimal fit.

 Yes, it takes experience to know what sounds better... to you. You say that you have more experience than I do, and that my inexperience leads me to prefer the inferior Mk2 over the Mk1. That may be true, I don't claim extensive knowledge about headphones. But you also imply that because your experience is greater and better than mine, your judgment is superior when it comes to deciding what sounds better.

 I will often defer to others' greater experience and knowledge, but when it comes to listening to music I will never acknowledge that someone's listening experience is superior or inferior to another's. I would also never say that someone's preferences, whether due to lack of experience or other factors, is wrong.

 Music is an art, and listening to music is appreciation of art. While the appreciation and enjoyment of music can be enhanced with more experience and knowledge, I don't think that any one person's appreciation of that art is somehow superior to another's, no matter what the gear they use, whether iPod earbuds or SR-007.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree that the non-swivel housings and the fart probably means that the designers made these trade-offs for very good reasons, most likely sound quality. But the non-swivel housings along with the fixed-width headband means that there might be less flexibility to fit various sized and shaped heads. The design might be "no-compromise" for those who find the SR-007 to fit very well, but it is definitely a compromise for others who have less than optimal fit.

 Yes, it takes experience to know what sounds better... to you. You say that you have more experience than I do, and that my inexperience leads me to prefer the inferior Mk2 over the Mk1. That may be true, I don't claim extensive knowledge about headphones. But you also imply that because your experience is greater and better than mine, your judgment is superior when it comes to deciding what sounds better.

 I will often defer to others' greater experience and knowledge, but when it comes to listening to music I will never acknowledge that someone's listening experience is superior or inferior to another's. I would also never say that someone's preferences, whether due to lack of experience or other factors, is wrong.

 Music is an art, and listening to music is appreciation of art. While the appreciation and enjoyment of music can be enhanced with more experience and knowledge, I don't think that any one person's appreciation of that art is somehow superior to another's, no matter what the gear they use, whether iPod earbuds or SR-007._

 

By definition a compromise is thinking about anything then pure sound quality, such as fit, manufacturing costs, cheaper materials, long term comfort and being an easy load on the amplifiers. That being said the Mk2/A simply isn't as great as the Mk1 and it's shows on any equipment you can think of. Yesterday I used my TV as a source and a SRD-7mk2 and the same deal. 

 I wasn't talking about my experience per se (as it sure as could be better) but other SR-007A/Mk2 owners which are saying the same thing as I and I'm in no way diminishing yours. The same goes for audio as for food, wine and other crazy, subjective comparisons that it's tough to know what is better without the benefit of a wide array of past comparisons spanning years. Learning what to look for and picking up on the smallest of things is a learned skill and not something you are born with. 

 Music is an art form but if you review audio gear with your heart you'll end up with incomprehensible dribble like 6moons. Most audiophiles simply dismiss engineering and great designs as their new fangled cryo cables sound so good and show that engineering isn't needed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Any piece of gear should be judged on its merits with as little personal bias as possible. I'm not really that good at the latter part as are most others but I do know that they are there. For the same reason I try not to judge others personal preferences but I'd like to know the reasoning behind them. I do know why owners might prefer the Mk2/A over the mk1 which is the same reason the mk1 gets no respect, they aren't audition friendly. I know that if I hadn't started out with the SR-007 my current collection would have been very different. I would probably have kept the He90 and thought it was better and sold the SR-007.


----------



## Saltuk

I recieved the SRM-1/MK2 normal bias. 

 And tried it with my SR-202. 

 When compared to SRM-252A , it is worse in all aspects apart from the looks (detail,speed,instrument seperation,bass tightness etc.) 

 But I believe it will eat the little 252A alive if it could work on pro bias instead of 230V bias.

 I started a thread in Diy forums (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...al-pro-325051/) with pictures.

 Any help on the bias conversion would be great.

 Thanks.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Music is an art form but if you review audio gear with your heart you'll end up with incomprehensible dribble like 6moons._

 






 But I'd like to see you name an e-zine that's not basically the same. Heck, name me any mag..


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 But I'd like to see you name an e-zine that's not basically the same. Heck, name me any mag.._

 

Hifi News, Audio Xpress are both good.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 But I'd like to see you name an e-zine that's not basically the same. Heck, name me any mag.._

 

Hi-fi News. They are even intent of testing headphones and do one every other month or so. Stereophile has become a steaming pile of crap after the mid 90's and the rest... well they are even worse.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recieved the SRM-1/MK2 normal bias. 

 And tried it with my SR-202. 

 When compared to SRM-252A , it is worse in all aspects apart from the looks (detail,speed,instrument seperation,bass tightness etc.) 

 But I believe it will eat the little 252A alive if it could work on pro bias instead of 230V bias.

 I started a thread in Diy forums (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...al-pro-325051/) with pictures.

 Any help on the bias conversion would be great.

 Thanks._

 

Can you charge it up to 580v on the 252A and then plug it into the SRM-1 Mk2 normal and see if it sounds better?

 Just curious, because... My SRM-1 Mk2 Pro actually does a decent job driving my HE60 and SR-Lambda Signature with the pro bias. For a lark, the other day I unplugged the HE60 from the SRM-1 and immediately plugged them into my normal bias SRD-X which was plugged into headphone out of my Woo WA6 dynamic phone tube amp, and it wasn't bad at all.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recieved the SRM-1/MK2 normal bias. 

 And tried it with my SR-202. 

 When compared to SRM-252A , it is worse in all aspects apart from the looks (detail,speed,instrument seperation,bass tightness etc.) 

 But I believe it will eat the little 252A alive if it could work on pro bias instead of 230V bias.

 I started a thread in Diy forums (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...al-pro-325051/) with pictures.

 Any help on the bias conversion would be great.

 Thanks._

 

If you solve this I would like to know since I have a low bias Stax SRA12S which would be nice with a high bias output.

 Of course running a pro bias phone such as the 202 with a low bias amp is probably not going to work too well. However the SR001 which is a pro design runs very well from a low bias amp.


----------



## pdennis

I'm also interested in converting the SRD-7. I've gleaned some info from searches, but would love to hear of others' experience.


----------



## Saltuk

I will charge the 202 with 252 tonight then connect to the srm-1 but should the srm-1 be on when connecting the 202 or should I turn it on after plugging in the earspeaker? And how long would it take 252 to fully charge the 202 and will it loose the 580v charge on it after some time?

 Driving the 202 from a normal bias energizer vs a pro one is like switching from flac to 64kps mp3 plus it distorts even the volume at 12 position when there is loud passages in music.

 I strongly believe the SRM-1 has serious potential but I somehow need to raise the voltage.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will charge the 202 with 252 tonight then connect to the srm-1 but should the srm-1 be on when connecting the 202 or should I turn it on after plugging in the earspeaker? And how long would it take 252 to fully charge the 202 and will it loose the 580v charge on it after some time?

 Driving the 202 from a normal bias energizer vs a pro one is like switching from flac to 64kps mp3 plus it distorts even the volume at 12 position when there is loud passages in music.

 I strongly believe the SRM-1 has serious potential but I somehow need to raise the voltage._

 

The charge should last about 10-15 minutes on the phones but it varies from unit to unit. The simples thing you can do right now is to make some simple adapter plugs and test the SRM-1 with the 252 giving the bias. Find an old computer power supply and use the metal bits from the molex connectors as they can be bent to fit Stax sockets and plugs. The pinout is floating around here but you need to let the +/- wires for L&R go to the SRM-1 and the bias to the 252. Just remember to insulate everything excessively and you'll be fine.


----------



## indikator

so spritzer, you said you gonna blue tack your sr007a, how is the result?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so spritzer, you said you gonna blue tack your sr007a, how is the result?_

 

I was going to do it when I could be bothered to remove the damn earpads and hasn't happened yet. I have much better things to do now then wrestle with those damn pads...


----------



## Bastet

Even though the above post doesn't really encourage me, I was thinking about changing the pads on my SR-007.
 Last time I looked these were $70 on Audiocubes II but now the SR-007 pads have gone up to $129 and SR-007A pads are $139 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Why is that? Can I get these anywhere else for the 'old' price?


----------



## evil-zen

Please do take some photos of the removing process.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bastet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even though the above post doesn't really encourage me, I was thinking about changing the pads on my SR-007.
 Last time I looked these were $70 on Audiocubes II but now the SR-007 pads have gone up to $129 and SR-007A pads are $139 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 Why is that? Can I get these anywhere else for the 'old' price?_

 

The YJP has gone up and the dollar down in value (nearly 1:100 now) but AC has simply increased their prices on top of that. Try contacting EIFL and ask for a quote.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The YJP has gone up and the dollar down in value (nearly 1:100 now) but AC has simply increased their prices on top of that. Try contacting EIFL and ask for a quote._

 

Well it seems to be going up against pound and yen, so hopefully the prices will be lower in a half a year of so


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please do take some photos of the removing process._

 

removing processing is easy, my 2 year old can do it.... and did it.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_removing processing is easy, my 2 year old can do it.... and did it._

 

What about putting it back?


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about putting it back? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

nope, no luck there.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_removing processing is easy, my 2 year old can do it.... and did it._

 

Yeah, that's the easy part and it's even easier on the Mk2/A model. Getting them back on should be an exercise in mental strength.


----------



## Saltuk

I tried the 202 on the srm-1/mk2 sb after charging the earspeakers with 252A pro. And it sounds much better than before. And slightly better than driving the earspeakers with the 252A(mostly on bas,s it is fuller and deeper without getting muddy or boomy )

 But I didn't get driving power I was expecting from it. I was expecting that the srm-1 would drive the 202 much easily than the 252A but they seem to be in the same level at least in that experiment.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please do take some photos of the removing process._

 

I bet the mounting process are the tricky one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Would nice to see some pictures of the mounting process though. As I am sure I will have to replace mine some day.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bet the mounting process are the tricky one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Would nice to see some pictures of the mounting process though. As I am sure I will have to replace mine some day._

 

It's not really complicated. Remove the metal spring from it's rubber grommet and fix it inside the inner flange on the earpads. Now orient the spring so that the straight bit faces to the seem on the pads and pop it back in place. All that is left is to cram the outer flange into the small groove on the housing. A piece of tape helps to hold the pad in place and secure what you have accomplished so far but it gets easier after the first 10 times...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried the 202 on the srm-1/mk2 sb after charging the earspeakers with 252A pro. And it sounds much better than before. And slightly better than driving the earspeakers with the 252A(mostly on bas,s it is fuller and deeper without getting muddy or boomy )

 But I didn't get driving power I was expecting from it. I was expecting that the srm-1 would drive the 202 much easily than the 252A but they seem to be in the same level at least in that experiment._

 

As has been discussed earlier in this thread (too many pages to seek it out!), there ARE differences between the lower Stax amps (SRM-1/Mk2, SRM-212, SRM-313, etc.), but none of them represent major leaps forward in sound quality (indeed the 313 is slightly worse than the SRM-1!).

 I have never heard a 717, though!


----------



## shomie911

Alright, I've been looking around to pick up a Stax system ever since CanJam.

 I've gotten a few offers, $950 for SR-404s and a SR-006t (last generation.)

 $800 for SR-303s and the SRM-1/Mk2

 But I'm not sure I wan't to spend that much if I can get 85-90% of the performance from a system much cheaper.

 I listened to the SRS-4040II, the SRS-2050, and the SRS-007II systems at CanJam. I really enjoyed the SRS-4040II and I thought the sound of the SRS-2050 was more congested and less detailed but still better than my DT880s out of almost every amp I tried them with there (except a few ridiculously expensive ones) and the SRS-4040II were better than everything I tried the DT880s with.

 What do you all recommend for the best for the least (vintage or current production.)

 I'll be buying used.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you all recommend for the best for the least (vintage or current production.)_

 

I think that the best "bang for the buck" is still the 2050II system. A good condition SRM-1 mk2 pro and vintage Lambda are going for high prices now. A older SRM-1 (low bias only) and a SR-Lambda might be found cheap, but they are old and you gamble getting a bad unit and the SR-Lambda is Low bias and can't be driven by the new Stax amps. If you want a tube amp I would go for a SRM-T1 over the SRM-006t. I think the 4040 system is a bad match up of products (404 & 006t), both have a disturbing upper midrange brightness that feed off each other. The 404 is much better with the T1 and 007t. The 202 are very nice phones and will improve nicely with any amp upgrade. I've owned all the current Lambda's and the 202 is the best value versus sound quality. It's also nice to have something brand new. When I drive the 202 with my SRM-007t or 717 they sound fantastic (and I own all the best vintage Lambda.s).


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the best "bang for the buck" is still the 2050II system. A good condition SRM-1 mk2 pro and vintage Lambda are going for high prices now. A older SRM-1 (low bias only) and a SR-Lambda might be found cheap, but they are old and you gamble getting a bad unit and the SR-Lambda is Low bias and can't be driven by the new Stax amps. The 202 are very nice phones and will improve nicely with any amp upgrade. I've owned all the current Lambda's and the 202 is the best value versus sound quality. It's also nice to have something brand new. When I drive the 202 with my SRM-007t or 717 they sound fantastic (and I own all the best vintage Lambda.s)._

 

So I guess I should look for a SRS-2050II system.

 I heard it at CanJam and I like them but I thought they had significantly less transparency than the SRS-4040II (but still more than almost all of the dynamics I heard or have owned.)

 If I bought a better driver later on would this be solved?

 (Stupid me didn't plug the SR-202s into the SRM-006t at CanJam to see how they scaled. I was too lost in the music on the SRS-4040II system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.)


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Saltuk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried the 202 on the srm-1/mk2 sb after charging the earspeakers with 252A pro. And it sounds much better than before. And slightly better than driving the earspeakers with the 252A(mostly on bas,s it is fuller and deeper without getting muddy or boomy )

 But I didn't get driving power I was expecting from it. I was expecting that the srm-1 would drive the 202 much easily than the 252A but they seem to be in the same level at least in that experiment._

 

The SRM-1 series is much higher output than the 252 (370v vs. 280v) and is one of Stax's better designs. I have both units and the SRM-1mk2 Pro is much much better than the 252II in every aspect. The SRM-1mk2 Pro will even drive my O2's (the 252II on the O2 is a Joke).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I guess I should look for a SRS-2050II system.

 I heard it at CanJam and I like them but I thought they had significantly less transparency than the SRS-4040II (but still more than almost all of the dynamics I heard or have owned.)

 If I bought a better driver later on would this be solved?

 (Stupid me didn't plug the SR-202s into the SRM-006t at CanJam to see how they scaled. I was too lost in the music on the SRS-4040II system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.)_

 

The 4040 system is more exciting when you first listen to them. Some of the extra detail is the upper midrange/lower treble hump. This hump drove me crazy and I sold my 4040 system to a friend years ago. The 202 is a little more forgiving but really shines with a good amp. I've been using them lately with my SRM-T1W in my workshop. There are a number of people on this site that love the 202 also.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As has been discussed earlier in this thread (too many pages to seek it out!), there ARE differences between the lower Stax amps (SRM-1/Mk2, SRM-212, SRM-313, etc.), but none of them represent major leaps forward in sound quality (indeed the 313 is slightly worse than the SRM-1!).

 I have never heard a 717, though!_

 

Well SRM-1/Mk2 is a "major leap forward in sound quality" compared to SRM-212 to my ears.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4040 system is more exciting when you first listen to them. Some of the extra detail is the upper midrange/lower treble hump. This hump drove me crazy and I sold my 4040 system to a friend years ago. The 202 is a little more forgiving but really shines with a good amp. I've been using them lately with my SRM-T1W in my workshop. There are a number of people on this site that love the 202 also._

 

Well I just posted a WTB in the For Sale forums, so it's just a matter of time now.

 On another note, what's the consensus on the SRD-6SB and the SR-Gamma?

 Do you think they would be better than the DT880s and the SOHA in terms of detail, transparency, and musicality?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I just posted a WTB in the For Sale forums, so it's just a matter of time now.

 On another note, what's the consensus on the SRD-6SB and the SR-Gamma?

 Do you think they would be better than the DT880s and the SOHA in terms of detail, transparency, and musicality?_

 

If you like the Lambda series I would stick with them. The Gamma has a much smaller driver and does not have the deep bass and dynamics as the Lambda series. If you can get them cheep you could try them and sell if you don't like. The SRD is not a amp and would need to be driven by a speaker amplifier of 5-30 watts. 

 Another nice phone is the Koss ESP-950 wired to use a Stax amp. The Koss amp is a dud, but would do until you get a better amp. The Koss has a beautiful tonal balance and is easy to listen to for hours (like the O2).
 I've seen used ESP-950's go for $400-500 with the Koss amp.


----------



## scompton

After playing for 2 days straight, the Playback 70 is now working well. It's slightly harder to drive than my SR-5. The big problem is very rolled off bass. I'm listening to Jaco Pastorius right now and it sounds like he's playing guitar
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can stats be damped like orthos? The mids and highs are nice, but I'd like more bass.


----------



## ferraro25

The "lack of bass" (and a little-too-thin overall sound signature) problem I experienced with the 202 has been fixed by changing my source from the EMU-0404 USB to my X-Fi. Makes sense that the 0404 would be leaner in order to better analyze sound, given that it is meant for low-budget recording and mastering. The X-Fi is not as clear- or clean-sounding, but I very much appreciate the warmer sound.

 After about five and a half months, the 202 is still, by far, my best and favorite headphone. This is the longest time I've been really happy with a headphone since the K501. All of my other headphones (including the K501) spend most of their time sitting in boxes, rarely unboxed only to be found to be crap in comparison to the 202. Most of them would fare better against the 202 if I had a quality amp, but I am unwilling to risk $300+ when I already have a sound I really like.


----------



## Duggeh

Be careful. The SR-202 was my gateway to Omegas and AMTs. You're on a slippery slope. >


----------



## pdennis

I got my 202 in the mail just today! I'm going Macbook --> USB --> Nuforce Icon --> SRD-7. I charged up the 202 on the SRM-212, then plugged it into the transformer box.

 In an A/B against my SR-X III, the 202's have a lot to be said for them. As you'd expect, the smaller 'phones sound thin (even with EQ, which I haven't perfected yet) and headphone-y in comparison. I'm finding the 202's to be -extremely- speaker-like in their presentation and soundstage. Very impressive!

 With bass EQ, the SR-X bass is tighter and punchier (actually it's amazing how punchy it can get!) and the entire midrange is more transparent -- but you sure don't forget it's a headphone. So far I like the better "speaker illusion" of my new toy. On the other hand, it's a new toy -- of course I like it!

 Incidentally, the SR-X sound much better off of the Nuforce than they ever did off of my Pioneer receiver.

 EDIT:

 The headband plastic seems so fragile! I don't like that much.

 Also, the earpads are coming unglued just a little around the edges. What kind of glue should I use to seal them up again? Should I even bother?

 EDIT:

 Ooooh.... glockenspiel.... ow.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After playing for 2 days straight, the Playback 70 is now working well. It's slightly harder to drive than my SR-5. The big problem is very rolled off bass. I'm listening to Jaco Pastorius right now and it sounds like he's playing guitar
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can stats be damped like orthos? The mids and highs are nice, but I'd like more bass._

 

To some degree yes, but you need a lot less material then with the iso's. Stax used a wafer thin sheet of mineral wool to damp the early Lambdas and also a slightly thicker material for the older SR-# and SR-X lines.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, the earpads are coming unglued just a little around the edges. What kind of glue should I use to seal them up again? Should I even bother?_

 

That's normal. Don't use any glue. They are held on with two sided tape. I'm sure the seal is fine. Someday you will need to replace the earpads and will be glad you didn't glue them.


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Now that I've had my Stax for a few weeks, I've noticed a phenomenon. No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 This makes it somewhat difficult to set a proper listening level because, perhaps unconsciously, I used distortion at loud levels as a way to determine safe listening levels when using dynamic headphones. 

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?_

 

Yes, I noticed a similar phenomenon, except kind of the opposite. With dynamic headphones I sometimes have the desire to turn up the volume on certain songs, especially after listening for a while. I want to get that additional slam but it is a self-defeating exercise. Even though there is a certain amount of energy that comes from listening at loud volumes, the dynamics and details are eventually lost the louder you go.

 I've found with Stax that over longer listening sessions I actually start to turn the volume down. I don't find any need to listen at louder levels. In a quiet room, the amount of detail at low volume is amazing.

 Once after a meet I got so busy that I didn't have time to set up my Stax rig for a few weeks. When I finally got around to it, I thought something was wrong with my amp because it seemed too "quiet". I guess it was my ears getting used to using dynamic headphones exclusively again. Once my ears were retrained to the Stax sound, I realized the amp was functioning properly and the volume was plenty loud.


----------



## PiccoloNamek

Quote:


 I've found with Stax that over longer listening sessions I actually start to turn the volume down. I don't find any need to listen at louder levels. In a quiet room, the amount of detail at low volume is amazing. 
 

Funny you should say that, because I was just thinking it to myself. I do believe that my average listening volume has definitely decreased because the sound is so clear.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not really complicated. Remove the metal spring from it's rubber grommet and fix it inside the inner flange on the earpads. Now orient the spring so that the straight bit faces to the seem on the pads and pop it back in place. All that is left is to cram the outer flange into the small groove on the housing. A piece of tape helps to hold the pad in place and secure what you have accomplished so far but it gets easier after the first 10 times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd like to add that moistening the flange a bit and making it go "inside-out" for half the circumference and then saving this bit for last seems to help tremendously.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've had my Stax for a few weeks, I've noticed a phenomenon. No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 This makes it somewhat difficult to set a proper listening level because, perhaps unconsciously, I used distortion at loud levels as a way to determine safe listening levels when using dynamic headphones. 

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?_

 

Stax even warns about this in the instruction manuals so it's normal

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to add that moistening the flange a bit and making it go "inside-out" for half the circumference and then saving this bit for last seems to help tremendously._

 

I'll need to try that next time.


----------



## mypasswordis

I recently purchased a normal bias Lambda without the arc assembly as my first foray into electrostats (it turned out to be normal bias, spritzer). I'm having a serious issue with soundstage; as in it just sounds like two point masses injecting sound into each ear, with a giant hole in the middle. Would getting the arc assembly, and thereby having a tighter fit, fix that problem? I have constructed a makeshift headband.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've had my Stax for a few weeks, I've noticed a phenomenon. No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 This makes it somewhat difficult to set a proper listening level because, perhaps unconsciously, I used distortion at loud levels as a way to determine safe listening levels when using dynamic headphones. 

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?_

 

I had a notice warning the user about the dangers of volume creep because of distortion free reproduction come with my 2020 and my O2.

 On the point though, it is the ability to achieve "drive control" at low volumes which is one of the most important factors to me in a headphone. I listen at volume levels well below what I estimate to be the average and as such there are two things which are of vast importance to me. The first is the ability of a driver to articulate sound detail and tonality at lower volumes, the second is the ability of an amplifier to control a driver as well as possible. If anything, it is the amplifier that is more important in this regard as the end aim of any amp should be the most utterly totalitarian control over its load as physically possible. This control is at its most important at lower volume levels because sound often requires a certain volume level in order to "bloom". This is the point at which the driver has achieved "drive". This is important not just for low level listeners like me but for the reproduction of any music with proper dynamic range. The amp should have control enough to reproduce the quiet sounds without skipping anything and the headroom to provide the squirts of power for a 10dB cannon shot. Its not just about output wattage, its about the grip that those watts have.

 Planar headphones are inherently better than moving coil designs in the first regard and meaty amps with large power supplies and good reserves of output energy into variable loads are best in the second regard.

 The Ergo AMT from a Pass Labs power amp and the SR-202 from the SRM-717 are the best combinations that I have heard for achieving this balance of factors. The O2 and 717 sounds better even though it needs more power because its a better transducer, so it will only get even more better (is that an overadjectification?) (is that even a word?) with a better amp behind it. I also believe that I can do better in terms of amplification for the AMT too.

 There has been much talk regarding amplification for the K1000 over the years on head-fi as well, because the driver in the K1000 is such a tough load it takes an amplifier with some real gonads to get it to behave itself. Any headphone that meets the category of difficult load (the O2, AMT, K1000 I have already mentioned but the R10, HD414, H2 are others) really does need an amp which is utterly disciplinarian and can bring them into line in order to get the best from them.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've had my Stax for a few weeks, I've noticed a phenomenon. No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 This makes it somewhat difficult to set a proper listening level because, perhaps unconsciously, I used distortion at loud levels as a way to determine safe listening levels when using dynamic headphones. 

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?_

 

Oh yes, big time. It's not just the absense of distortion but the lower tactile impact. Both are cues that help you gauge volume and are very hard to come by on a good 'stat. On top of that, if you don't have any kind of serious peaks that can cause any harshness at high volume, then it is even _more_ difficult to gauge listening volume.

 I pretty much gave myself tinnitus blasting the SR-001 at far louder levels than I thought.

 I didn't have this when I went with dynamics, but now with the O2 it's a big problem again, doubly so since its sound signature just begs you to crank it. The VP-20/SRD-7 Pro combo will drive it very, very loud, and it has yet to clip or distort in any way.

 Not that this is, by any means, a bad problem to have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I also agree on the lower general listening volume with 'stats. The seem to open up dynamically much earlier than dynamics, and microdetail is much more clearly audible.


----------



## scompton

I just got some spritzer frankenphones by way of blessingx. They're SR-X drivers in an Alpha pro shell. These things really pump out the bass and are incredibly sensitive. spritzer, I was wondering how these compare to an SR-X and to a Lambda normal bias. I can't imagine that the Lambda's produce much more bass than these do.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got some spritzer frankenphones by way of blessingx. They're SR-X drivers in an Alpha pro shell. These things really pump out the bass and are incredibly sensitive. spritzer, I was wondering how these compare to an SR-X and to a Lambda normal bias. I can't imagine that the Lambda's produce much more bass than these do._

 

Lambda has more bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have SR-Gamma and SR-Lambda and trust me Lambda as more bass and it extends deeper.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PiccoloNamek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that I've had my Stax for a few weeks, I've noticed a phenomenon. No matter how loud I turn the volume up, the headphones never distort or become harsh to listen to.

 Did anyone else notice this when transitioning to Stax?_

 

Yes. When I bought my first Stax Lambdas in 1983, the box contained a lengthy notice/warning from the Tokyo Surgeon General. It pointed out the dangers of playing too loud due to the lack of distortion, that would normally work as a restraint on volume level.

 Kind regards


----------



## Naga

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...1000-a-324785/

 Do you guys think that the STAX is a good consolation for a lack of K1000? 

 Strongly considering a 2050


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda has more bass. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have SR-Gamma and SR-Lambda and trust me Lambda as more bass and it extends deeper._

 

The Lambdas do produce more bass than the normal bias SR-X and Gamma, the Pro drivers, however, are another matter. My Pro driver FrankenStax produces more bass, goes as deep but more impact and solidity than the Lambdas.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Today naamanf and I were having a mini-meet at my house, and we agreed the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature have great bass, and we both thought they sound better than all my dynamic headphones (or his ATH-W5000). We both liked the HE60 a little better because of the improved transparency, but we both really missed the bass of the Lambdas when listening to the HE60.

 Unfortunately, one of my HE60 drivers is taking two hours to charge each time I go to use it, so I have to send them off to Sennheiser for replacing, but they want me to send my amp with it. I wrote back and said this problem happens with two different SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and it doesn't happen with my STAX headphones on these amps - so I offered to to send an HEV70 with no AC adapter (or with the 230vAC), and I am waiting to hear back from them now.

 The cost of repairs will be $255.82 for matched drivers + $80/hr + Shipping both ways. The seller very generously refunded enough money to pay for the repairs, without my asking him to. Now that is a class act and a great head-fier.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Naga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...1000-a-324785/

 Do you guys think that the STAX is a good consolation for a lack of K1000? 

 Strongly considering a 2050_

 

Yes, and for a lot less cash if you buy second hand. I don't know whether you'd prefer the Lambda or SR-X type sound. I like the SR-X over the Lambda. A slightly modded SR-X Mk3 is on a par with the K1000 for me. 

 I have the SR-X, Gamma, Lambda, Smegma Pro (frankenStax) and 2 K1000s. The K1000 isn't at the top of that list


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After playing for 2 days straight, the Playback 70 is now working well. It's slightly harder to drive than my SR-5. The big problem is very rolled off bass. I'm listening to Jaco Pastorius right now and it sounds like he's playing guitar
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can stats be damped like orthos? The mids and highs are nice, but I'd like more bass._

 

Did you ever determine which drivers this thing uses? Is it another SR-3 variant?

 Anyway, yes, you can damp 'stats, but you need something much less dense than the felt you've been using. Mostly, as Spritzer said earlier, you see "biscuits" of mineral wool (fiberglass-like stuff, very fluffy) in 'stats. Don't think damping will help the bass much, though. The problem is more likely to be those gigantic tall earpads and the resulting big earcup volume the driver "sees".


 .


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got some spritzer frankenphones by way of blessingx. They're SR-X drivers in an Alpha pro shell. These things really pump out the bass and are incredibly sensitive. spritzer, I was wondering how these compare to an SR-X and to a Lambda normal bias. I can't imagine that the Lambda's produce much more bass than these do._

 

The Lambdas certainly have more bass volume though it is constrained compared to some of the later variants. A normal bias SR-X isn't bass heavy by any meaning of the word but the SR-X Pro's are a different matter altogether.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, and for a lot less cash if you buy second hand. I don't know whether you'd prefer the Lambda or SR-X type sound. I like the SR-X over the Lambda. A slightly modded SR-X Mk3 is on a par with the K1000 for me. 

 I have the SR-X, Gamma, Lambda, Smegma Pro (frankenStax) and 2 K1000s. The K1000 isn't at the top of that list 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

To my ears SR-X is very unpleasant sounding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




(claustrophobic soundstage, thin brittle sound and huge bass roll off) and both Gamma and Lambda are very nice. I cannot imagine anyone liking SR-X more than Lambda. You are the first one who I see saying that.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To my ears SR-X is very unpleasant sounding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




(claustrophobic soundstage, thin brittle sound and huge bass roll off) and both Gamma and Lambda are very nice. I cannot imagine anyone liking SR-X more than Lambda. You are the first one who I see saying that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've never been a huge fan of the normal bias SR-X but the Pro model is a huge upgrade and one of the most enjoyable phones I have. Better then any of the Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...


----------



## evil-zen

I sold my SR 303 after I got the SR-X and Gamma Pro as I far prefer the vintage ones to the 303. The two vintage Stax are on equal status to me as as I rotate them whenever I listen to headphones. The SR-X surely doesn't have thin brittle sound though. It is one of the most midrangy headphones in my collection. 

 scompton, you have a Gamma normal equivalent in your hands. The Gamma Pro has the more bass even compared to Sennheiser HD600 on a Gilmore dynamic amp.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been a huge fan of the normal bias SR-X but the Pro model is a huge upgrade and one of the most enjoyable phones I have. Better then any of the Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I highly doubt that for me that would be the case, since the soundstage would still suck and the basic nature of the headphones I imagine would still be intact.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sold my SR 303 after I got the SR-X and Gamma Pro as I far prefer the vintage ones to the 303. The two vintage Stax are on equal status to me as as I rotate them whenever I listen to headphones. The SR-X surely doesn't have thin brittle sound though. It is one of the most midrangy headphones in my collection. 

 scompton, you have a Gamma normal equivalent in your hands. The Gamma Pro has the more bass even compared to Sennheiser HD600 on a Gilmore dynamic amp._

 

To each it's own, I love the SR-303 and think SR-X is not enjoyable at all, it's might be a good tool to check for bad ground loops but that's about it


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I highly doubt that for me that would be the case, since the soundstage would still suck and the basic nature of the headphones I imagine would still be intact.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The soundstage does suck but the Pro's are a bit better but not by much. The bass is miles ahead and the midrange even better with increased HF response.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The soundstage does suck but the Pro's are a bit better but not by much. The bass is miles ahead and the midrange even better with increased HF response._

 

*[rant on]* Based on this little tidbit of info, there is no way I even want to spend time to find SR-X Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for saving me time and money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not particularly like the midrange on SR-X as well, too cold for my taste. SR-Lambda on the other hand is sublime. PMB500 has midrange somewhat similar to SR-X a bit warmer but still way to harsh for me to love it. Just to give you an idea of what floats my boat. Sigma's sound signature I prefer to any headphone I heard so far, I equally like SR-lambda and SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, SR-Gamma is not bad but sounds somewhat brittle to me (no meat), SR-001 I realy like as well, SR-X I hated at first and still don't like and I really like my QP85 and Float for their soundstage, but I think Sigma is better in this regard.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*[rant off]*


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sold my SR 303 after I got the SR-X and Gamma Pro as I far prefer the vintage ones to the 303. The two vintage Stax are on equal status to me as as I rotate them whenever I listen to headphones. The SR-X surely doesn't have thin brittle sound though. It is one of the most midrangy headphones in my collection. 

 scompton, you have a Gamma normal equivalent in your hands. The Gamma Pro has the more bass even compared to Sennheiser HD600 on a Gilmore dynamic amp._

 

I have agree with one thing, Gamma sounds very nice (IMHO way better than SR-X) and competes with SR-303 and even SR-Lambda, but for me both are still better.


----------



## Cecala

Further evidence of my lack of knowledge here although what is the difference between 'Normal' and "Pro' bias you people refer to?


----------



## wualta

First you have to understand the function of bias in an electrostatic speaker/tweeter/headphone. Assuming that you do, raising the bias voltage in electrostatic transducers has been instrumental in continuing their gradual improvement over the decades. It used to be that 'stat 'phones couldn't play loudly and had no bass. Eventually they could play loudly but still had no bass (see the discussion just above). To make more bass the diaphragm has to move farther. Bass requires moving lots of air. To give the diaphragm more room to move required spacing the elements inside the headphone farther apart. To keep the same electrostatic force on the diaphragm, the bias voltage had to be raised. Voila, an electrostat that could play loudly without distortion even in the low bass. That's what the high ("Pro") vs. low ("Normal") bias stuff is all about: trying to get bass out of a product that traditionally didn't have very much.


----------



## Cecala

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First you have to understand the function of bias in an electrostatic speaker/tweeter/headphone. Assuming that you do, raising the bias voltage in electrostatic transducers has been instrumental in continuing their gradual improvement over the decades. It used to be that 'stat 'phones couldn't play loudly and had no bass. Eventually they could play loudly but still had no bass (see the discussion just above). To make more bass the diaphragm has to move farther. Bass requires moving lots of air. To give the diaphragm more room to move required spacing the elements inside the headphone farther apart. To keep the same electrostatic force on the diaphragm, the bias voltage had to be raised. Voila, an electrostat that could play loudly without distortion even in the low bass. That's what the high ("Pro") vs. low ("Normal") bias stuff is all about: trying to get bass out of a product that traditionally didn't have very much._

 

Understood, Thank you.
 Does this mean that all high quality Electrostatic amps though, have the 'Pro' bias set as normal or default?
 It explains the very high voltages that are used by the Stax offerings and others.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this mean that all high quality Electrostatic amps though, have the 'Pro' bias set as normal or default?_

 

Not necessarily, but often they do for the practical reason that so many of the available headphones are built by Stax. DIY amps, for instance, can have whatever bias you care to set, or even multiple possible bias settings. (Useful to have a 600V if you have a Koss ESP-950, for instance)


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you ever determine which drivers this thing uses? Is it another SR-3 variant?

 Anyway, yes, you can damp 'stats, but you need something much less dense than the felt you've been using. Mostly, as Spritzer said earlier, you see "biscuits" of mineral wool (fiberglass-like stuff, very fluffy) in 'stats. Don't think damping will help the bass much, though. The problem is more likely to be those gigantic tall earpads and the resulting big earcup volume the driver "sees".


 ._

 

I'll post some comparison pictures of the Magnavox driver vs the Playback, but probably not until this weekend.

 I can't imagine where I'll get circumaural pads for the Playback. The cup diameter is huge. It's probably the biggest cups of any headphone I own. I'm not sure when I'd be able to make my own pads.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[rant on]* Based on this little tidbit of info, there is no way I even want to spend time to find SR-X Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for saving me time and money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not particularly like the midrange on SR-X as well, too cold for my taste. SR-Lambda on the other hand is sublime. PMB500 has midrange somewhat similar to SR-X a bit warmer but still way to harsh for me to love it. Just to give you an idea of what floats my boat. Sigma's sound signature I prefer to any headphone I heard so far, I equally like SR-lambda and SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, SR-Gamma is not bad but sounds somewhat brittle to me (no meat), SR-001 I realy like as well, SR-X I hated at first and still don't like and I really like my QP85 and Float for their soundstage, but I think Sigma is better in this regard.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*[rant off]*_

 

Happy to help... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now to spend that money again you need to hear a SR-Sigma Pro 404. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First you have to understand the function of bias in an electrostatic speaker/tweeter/headphone. Assuming that you do, raising the bias voltage in electrostatic transducers has been instrumental in continuing their gradual improvement over the decades. It used to be that 'stat 'phones couldn't play loudly and had no bass. Eventually they could play loudly but still had no bass (see the discussion just above). To make more bass the diaphragm has to move farther. Bass requires moving lots of air. To give the diaphragm more room to move required spacing the elements inside the headphone farther apart. To keep the same electrostatic force on the diaphragm, the bias voltage had to be raised. Voila, an electrostat that could play loudly without distortion even in the low bass. That's what the high ("Pro") vs. low ("Normal") bias stuff is all about: trying to get bass out of a product that traditionally didn't have very much._

 

Very true but one point should be made and that is the context of bias voltage and drive voltage. As with everything in this world, electrostatics are full of compromises. Since air can only insulate up to 100v/mil that is an insurmountable barrier (it can be overcome with crazy engineering though) which is the baseline of all electrostatics and the law which governs the electrostatic force, i.e that its power falls with the square of the distance. That means you need a lot more bias voltage to span a small gap with the same drive voltage and that can never exceed 100v/mil. This is why we have a 200-230v standard and the 580v. The original D/S gap was 0.3mm and went to 0.5mm with the Pro series and it's easy to see how much the bias needed to be increased compared to the D/S gap. This gets even worse once we venture into speaker land with bias voltage at close to 15kV now. The two points were chosen so that normal and Pro headphones could be used in tandem on the same amp with the same drive voltage on the stators.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never been a huge fan of the normal bias SR-X but the Pro model is a huge upgrade and one of the most enjoyable phones I have. Better then any of the Lambdas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2
 I really enjoy the SR-X/MK3 Pro, which is a clear step up from the normal bias SR-X/MK3. They might not be "better" than the Lambda's, but more enjoyable.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Further evidence of my lack of knowledge here although what is the difference between 'Normal' and "Pro' bias you people refer to?_

 

It refer to the voltage used to charge the diaphragm in an electrostatic driver.
 Normal = 200-230 volt
 Pro = 580 volt


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't imagine where I'll get circumaural pads for the Playback. The cup diameter is huge. It's probably the biggest cups of any headphone I own. I'm not sure when I'd be able to make my own pads._

 

Make some two-dimensional donuts of felt and stack 'em up to the desired thickness. Better than nothing until something better shows up.


----------



## Naga

audiocubes2 and TTVJ are the only STAX vendors i know if; where else can this stuff be purchased?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Moon Audio is another dealer of STAX. Also search Audiogon as there are postings by authorized dealers. Lastly, check Yamas Enterprises site for listing of authorized dealers. Note that these are all dealers within the US so it comes with a 2 yr. US warranty. If you're outside, it's better to import straight from Japan. I got my O2MK2 w/ full 2 yr. US warranty for a price close to importing direct from Japan.


----------



## scompton

Check the Yamas Enterprises site because you might have a local dealer. We have one in Northern Virginia


----------



## edstrelow

I sit here with my laptop on my lap(where else?) and SRX3 on my head. I think their main deficiency is lack of deep bass. Bass, plus a euphonic upper bass hump gives the impression of a solid soundstage. However I think the soundstage, by which I mean sound localized in space is basically ok. But the bass boost gives a better impression of a soundstage. When I switch in an equalizer to boost the bass below 125hz, it definitely gives these phones sense of a continuous bass line which creates an illusion of hearing room acoustics. That's what I think people refer to when they complain about the lack of soundstage.

 Unfortunately the equalizer bass boost comes at the cost of some of the midrange and treble clarity which is the strong suit of these phones.

 Boy I sure would like to hear the pro version!


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Moon Audio is another dealer of STAX. Also search Audiogon as there are postings by authorized dealers. Lastly, check Yamas Enterprises site for listing of authorized dealers. Note that these are all dealers within the US so it comes with a 2 yr. US warranty. If you're outside, it's better to import straight from Japan. I got my O2MK2 w/ full 2 yr. US warranty for a price close to importing direct from Japan._

 

X2 on Moon Audio. Drew gave me a better deal than any grey market importers would, given how weak the US dollar is now, and that comes with full US warranty and service. He's the man, and great to deal with as well.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Naga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_audiocubes2 and TTVJ are the only STAX vendors i know if; where else can this stuff be purchased?_

 

You mean 'dealer', right?
 In that case EIFL, AudioCubes and Moon Audio sell Stax as well.


----------



## slwiser

I noted some previous discussions concerning low powered OTL amps being extra good using the SRD-7. How is it that a transformerless amp in line with an SRD-7 Pro impedance matching transformer is superior to a well designed transformer amp with the additional transformer (SRD-7 Pro) in line?

 I have another question about using the SRD-7 Pro and appropriate amplifier power levels. What minimum power levels are recommended for the Stax line-up using the SRD-7 Pro: Gramma Pro and up line from these if anyone knows?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noted some previous discussions concerning low powered OTL amps being extra good using the SRD-7. How is it that a transformerless amp in line with an SRD-7 Pro impedance matching transformer is superior to a well designed transformer amp with the additional transformer (SRD-7 Pro) in line?

 I have another question about using the SRD-7 Pro and appropriate amplifier power levels. What minimum power levels are recommended for the Stax line-up using the SRD-7 Pro: Gramma Pro and up line from these if anyone knows?_

 

OTL amps aren't always what they are cracked up to be and the results will vary a lot depending on the load present. With headphone amps the transformer is simply replaced with an output capacitor (often electrolytics) which is equally bad or even worse. The argument is that increased number of transformers in the signal path degrade the sound and while that is partially true the matter isn't this cut and dry. Transformers provide a stable load and that can make up for most of their limitations and with great transformers there are very few limitations. 

 Power levels can be deceiving as you need voltage more then current when driving electrostatics but 5W should be plenty to get the phones swinging more then 100v and I've tried 3w amps with good results.


----------



## cosmopragma

I have some questions as well.
 They have probably been answered before, but since the crash the search function is pretty much unusable.

 I'll probably get a customized amp built by a talented german DIYer.He has no experience so far with amps for electrostats and therefor lacks the sources for some of the parts.

 I'd like to get an amp with several bias voltages for different electrostats.Could someone please confirm the voltages?
 Stax Pro: 580 V
 Heaudio : 580 V
 Senn HE60 : 540 V
 Koss : 600 V
 He has already a source for the Stax type jacks, but where do you get jacks for the other non Stax electrostats?

 I was always fond of the kind of twofold pots with integrated balance control that are built into most Stax amps.My builder wasn't able so far to locate such a pot.The HEV70 does contain a similar pot so I guess those pots are not custom built for Stax.Does anybody know where to get such pots?


----------



## scompton

It looks to me like they aren't the same drivers, besides the difference in the size of the holes in the stators, the Playback's driver is 1/8 inch bigger.

 Does anyone recognize the Playback as being from another manufacturer?

 Playback 70






 Magnavox


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have some questions as well.
 They have probably been answered before, but since the crash the search function is pretty much unusable.

 I'll probably get a customized amp built by a talented german DIYer.He has no experience so far with amps for electrostats and therefor lacks the sources for some of the parts.

 I'd like to get an amp with several bias voltages for different electrostats.Could someone please confirm the voltages?
 Stax Pro: 580 V
 Heaudio : 580 V
 Senn HE60 : 540 V
 Koss : 600 V
 He has already a source for the Stax type jacks, but where do you get jacks for the other non Stax electrostats?

 I was always fond of the kind of twofold pots with integrated balance control that are built into most Stax amps.My builder wasn't able so far to locate such a pot.The HEV70 does contain a similar pot so I guess those pots are not custom built for Stax.Does anybody know where to get such pots?_

 

The HE 1.2B has a 600v bias and the HE90 is 500v but the rest is correct. The HE 1.2B uses a standard 5 pin XLR jack and the HE90 uses a Fischer plug. The part numbers are somewhere in a post here but it's 5 pin in a star pattern. 

 It would be best to call up the ALPS distributor and ask about these pots. I think they could be special ordered but finding a knob to work will be very tough indeed. You can also just buy a balance pot and install it with a volume pot. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks to me like they aren't the same drivers, besides the difference in the size of the holes in the stators, the Playback's driver is 1/8 inch bigger.

 Does anyone recognize the Playback as being from another manufacturer?

 Playback 70





 Magnavox



_

 

Definitely not Stax. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Interesting stator arrangement but could cause more trouble then is gained from a more open structure. I've never seen Azden or Fontek drivers so it's impossible to know who made them but it's definitely not Micro-Seiki.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE 1.2B has a 600v bias and the HE90 is 500v but the rest is correct. _

 

HE 1.2B should work on Koss amp?


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely not Stax. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Interesting stator arrangement but could cause more trouble then is gained from a more open structure. I've never seen Azden or Fontek drivers so it's impossible to know who made them but it's definitely not Micro-Seiki._

 

From what I've read, the fact that they're not powder means they're not Micro-Seiki


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HE 1.2B should work on Koss amp? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup... go out and buy a 5-xlr socket for that over sized stepup network you call an amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I've read, the fact that they're not powder means they're not Micro-Seiki
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, that too. The M-S drivers are also built into the housing.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup... go out and buy a 5-xlr socket for that over sized stepup network you call an amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

LOL. It's nasty I have to admit. I especially hate the volume control. One section pulls the other after it and it seems to be adjusting differently. Meh.


----------



## Duggeh

I'm starting to get annoyed with the volume dial on my NAD C352. It crackles both channels lightly whenever i move it.

 Take it apart and clean it perhaps. It never did it when it was new.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL. It's nasty I have to admit. I especially hate the volume control. One section pulls the other after it and it seems to be adjusting differently. Meh._

 

It's beyond cheap so that's to be expected. You can always use a hammer to try and fix it...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm starting to get annoyed with the volume dial on my NAD C352. It crackles both channels lightly whenever i move it.

 Take it apart and clean it perhaps. It never did it when it was new._

 

Clean it with some good contact cleaner. There is often some opening on the pots for each channel and spray there. Rotate a dozen times or more and it should be good to go.


----------



## Blueiz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm starting to get annoyed with the volume dial on my NAD C352. It crackles both channels lightly whenever i move it.

 Take it apart and clean it perhaps. It never did it when it was new._

 

x2 on the contact cleaner... the wipers are probably getting dirty....


----------



## SACD-Man

On a separate note, any opinions on the SR-5NB gold edition? Picking up a pair and was wondering what folks thought...

 =)


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On a separate note, any opinions on the SR-5NB gold edition? Picking up a pair and was wondering what folks thought..._

 

The people who have them rarely sell them, and few have had hard words for them. Lately the SR-5NB gold seems to fetch prices higher than an SR-Gamma and sometimes as much as an SR-Lambda, though it was originally sold below them in the Stax line. 

 I've had the SR-5 twice and heard the 5 gold drivers in the very different SR-X and Gamma implementations. I suspect that these last two plus the 5 gold should all be excellent in different ways, and choosing between them a matter of preference. (X for detail and smooth response, though with rolled-off deep bass and a collapsed soundstage; Gamma for musicality and fuller sound; 5 gold presumably splitting the difference but with a wider soundstage than either.) I think if one could have only a single, cheapish electrostat, any of these three would be a good choice.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's beyond cheap so that's to be expected. You can always use a hammer to try and fix it...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

So what is better H90 or HEV70?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The people who have them rarely sell them, and few have had hard words for them. Lately the SR-5NB gold seems to fetch prices higher than an SR-Gamma and sometimes as much as an SR-Lambda, though it was originally sold below them in the Stax line. 

 I've had the SR-5 twice and heard the 5 gold drivers in the very different SR-X and Gamma implementations. I suspect that these last two plus the 5 gold should all be excellent in different ways, and choosing between them a matter of preference. (X for detail and smooth response, though with rolled-off deep bass and a collapsed soundstage; Gamma for musicality and fuller sound; 5 gold presumably splitting the difference but with a wider soundstage than either.) I think if one could have only a single, cheapish electrostat, any of these three would be a good choice._

 

I would love to hear SR-5N, since I heard both Gamma and SR-X. I think Gamma is way better than SR-X, but would do you expect from a guy who really cares about spacial positioning and specifically about deep, high and wide soundstage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If SR-5N has better soundsatge capabilities I would even trade my Gamma for it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I use my own pair of SR-5NB gold edition more than my SR-Lambdas, but I wouldn't part with either. I love them.

 But my 10yr old son kept asking me for my Lambdas and the answer was always no - so finally I got a second pair of SR-Lambdas from recently Fitz. With that deal done, I gave him the SR-Lambda and we sold his pair of SR-5NB golds, after someone begged me for the 4th time to sell off some of my vintage Stax. My remaining pair will never be sold. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS: Call me strange, but I like the SR-5NB gold better than the Gamma Pro that I sold to Smeggy, and the Gamma Pro were nice, but not as rich sounding to me.


----------



## Tachikoma

The SR-5 has the potential to have a larger soundstage than the gamma pro. Mine does 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (pro drivers, wide PC-OCC cable) I actually like the way SR-X does "soundstage" better, which doesn't add anything to the recording compared to the SR-5 and gamma which always have the same "stage" for almost all recordings.

 However, the SR-X has a really rolled off treble and bass response compared to either the SR-5 or GP. I hope the usual pro driver + wide cable mod will fix that.

 The GP's main flaw is that strange colouration it has in the mids. Everyone sounds like they're singing with their noses stuffed


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what is better H90 or HEV70? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The battle of the crap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I didn't compare them side to side as the HEV70 was sold when I got the E.90 but gut feeling gives the HEV70 the nod as slightly better. I tested both with my bias patch cables so bias isn't an issue.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE 1.2B has a 600v bias and the HE90 is 500v but the rest is correct. The HE 1.2B uses a standard 5 pin XLR jack and the HE90 uses a Fischer plug. _

 

Thanks for the answer.I did ask about the bias and jack of the* HE60* though.
  Quote:


 The part numbers are somewhere in a post here but it's 5 pin in a star pattern. 
 

Any of my questions has been answered before - probably 5 times.Unfortunately the search function is kind of a bad joke since the crash last year.That's the main reason (besides of lost pics and nonfunctional links) I'm no (financial) contributor anymore.Jude doesn't bother to restore a usable search function.

 Edit: I've just learned that contributing members now have some kind of primitive boolean search function at their disposal.At the time when I had to renew my contributor status there was definitely none.

 But the best is 
  Quote:


 Also when you log off you get the AND search. Only non-contributing members are stuck with OR only. 
 

If this is true typing down what I think about it would earn me a dishonorable discharge .....


 Cosmopragma hits the "Log Out" button .........


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 You can also just buy a balance pot and install it with a volume pot. 

 ._

 

I am biased against balance pots since every single of these thingies I've encountered in the past did influence the sound quality in a bad way and it was always best to take them out of the signal path but maybe I'm wrong.Are there high quality balance pots available?
  Quote:


 It would be best to call up the ALPS distributor and ask about these pots. I think they could be special ordered but finding a knob to work will be very tough indeed. 
 

I could probably ask the german Stax distributor about the the original spare part including the knob but this would probably cost a fortune.The pot/knob would likely cost more than my SRM-313 is worth and maybe I should just butcher the latter for parts.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the answer.I did ask about the bias and jack of the* HE60* though._

 

Ahh, I forgot to add that. The HE60 jack is propitiatory but it could be bought from Sennheiser back when the HEV70 was in production. The part number was in some old article about an ESP amp but I don't remember where. The ESP950 also has it's own connector but both of these headphones should be reterminated over to the Stax Pro standard. 

 The HE90 information can be found here. The HE60 uses the same wiring scheme though the connector is different but it's best to open up the headphones to confirm it as most of the pin outs I found on the net were wrong. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am biased against balance pots since every single of these thingies I've encountered in the past did influence the sound quality in a bad way and it was always best to take them out of the signal path but maybe I'm wrong.Are there high quality balance pots available?_

 

Cheap balance pots are crap just the same as cheap volume pots. Alps makes a RK27 balance pot and if you are feeling flushed, a RK50 balance pot. The RK50 is the best you can get and has the price tag to match but if you could find a RK40 that would also be a good cheaper option. Penny&Giles also make some and they could be a good, cheaper option. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could probably ask the german Stax distributor about the the original spare part including the knob but this would probably cost a fortune.The pot/knob would likely cost more than my SRM-313 is worth and maybe I should just butcher the latter for parts._

 

The pot in the SRM-313 is just a standard RK27 and it has no place in a better then average amp. You can also get a DACT balance control but we all know that steppers are the root of all evil.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 However, the SR-X has a really rolled off treble and bass response compared to either the SR-5 or GP. I hope the usual pro driver + wide cable mod will fix that. 
 

*retracts that*

 I swapped the new SR-X pads for the old ones, and my treble/bass response came back. Its still isn't as extended as the GP or SR-5 (pro) but its nowhere near as bad as what it had been with the new pads.

 Newer isn't always better, eh?


----------



## SACD-Man

Thanks everyone for their opinion on the SR-5NB...I'm sure I will be around this thread more often!!


----------



## Geir

I am thinking of getting my feet wet in the Stax department, so I wonder what would be a decent price for a SR5 + SRD7mkII be when it is cosmetically in decent condition and mechanically in good condition?


----------



## Tachikoma

Somewhere between $300 and $500 if you're talking about the SR-5NB. You don't really need an mk2 and besides, the normal bias SRD-7s can practically be had for free. Tell spritzer that you'll pay for the difference in the shipping (that is the difference between shipping his stuff from japan with an SRD-7 and without the SRD-7), and you'll probably get one =P

 ohwait norway and iceland aren't the same country are they... <______< but the normal bias SRD-7s really are much cheaper.


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Geir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am thinking of getting my feet wet in the Stax department, so I wonder what would be a decent price for a SR5 + SRD7mkII be when it is cosmetically in decent condition and mechanically in good condition?_

 

Are you planning to bid on the pair that are on offer on German ebay? I have a low bid on them and was planning to follow through, but I would not want to be in a bid war with other headfiers...


----------



## Geir

Hey Ludo, I am contemplating upon that german stax ebay yes. Have the feeling I will have some sweet/smooth talking to my wife first, and I am not 100% certain she will agree to it. You have the longest time here at Head-fi, so go for it


----------



## bjarnetv

the normal bias stax transformers are definitely the best choice for stax buyers on a budget 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 as for cheap stax, i see faust2d is selling a srd-6sb/sr-gamma combo; seems like a nice way to start with electrostats.


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Geir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Ludo, I am contemplating upon that german stax ebay yes. Have the feeling I will have some sweet/smooth talking to my wife first, and I am not 100% certain she will agree to it. You have the longest time here at Head-fi, so go for it _

 

Geir, thanks for giving me the green flag, but I'm returning it to you as I'm waiting for a "starter" set I bought from Spritzer, so I will already have my hands full (and an empty wallet). If your wife does not agree let me know though, as I will try to go for it.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the normal bias stax transformers are definitely the best choice for stax buyers on a budget 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 as for cheap stax, i see faust2d is selling a srd-6sb/sr-gamma combo; seems like a nice way to start with electrostats._

 

I think he's just selling the SRD 6SB without an earspeaker. You may be confused because he has a picture of a Stax ad in his post that talks about the Gamma.


----------



## bjarnetv

but in one of the bumps he said he could include the sr-gamma to the deal


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somewhere between $300 and $500 if you're talking about the SR-5NB. You don't really need an mk2 and besides, the normal bias SRD-7s can practically be had for free. Tell spritzer that you'll pay for the difference in the shipping (that is the difference between shipping his stuff from japan with an SRD-7 and without the SRD-7), and you'll probably get one =P

 ohwait norway and iceland aren't the same country are they... <______< but the normal bias SRD-7s really are much cheaper._

 

All of my spare SRD-7's have been ripped apart or sold and I won't buy any more if I can help it.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but in one of the bumps he said he could include the sr-gamma to the deal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I need to a proper for sale post. I am just to lazy to do it. I am selling SRD-6SB with SR-Gamma if someone wants to buy one from me


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but in one of the bumps he said he could include the sr-gamma to the deal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey, since you have both Ergo 2 and SR-Sigma can you do a quick run down on the difference of soundstage between these two. I am thinking about Ergo 2 but not sure if I will make sense to get it with QP85 and Sigma


----------



## bjarnetv

after just a quick listen, it doesnt have as large soundstage as the sigma, and i find it very similar to the float electrostat.
 as for similarities to the qp85 its difficult to say without having heard one, but it sounds completely different from the pmb85, with its even bigger soundstage than the sigma.
 so far i love the sound of the ergo2, and they feel more solid than the MB or jecklin frames.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Geir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am thinking of getting my feet wet in the Stax department, so I wonder what would be a decent price for a SR5 + SRD7mkII be when it is cosmetically in decent condition and mechanically in good condition?_

 

Geir, as I wrote in my reply to your PM it will most probably be in the €2-300 area.
 Mainly because the SRD-7mk2 are highly sought after, and people are willing to pay top money to get ahold of one. Its certainly a nice energizer, but for the SR-5 you can live just as happily with a normal bias energizer. Like the SRD-6 or SRD-7.

 Please don't go into a bidding war with 'ludoo' though.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Geir, as I wrote in my reply to your PM it will most probably be in the €2-300 area.
 Mainly because the SRD-7mk2 are highly sought after, and people are willing to pay top money to get ahold of one. Its certainly a nice energizer, but for the SR-5 you can live just as happily with a normal bias energizer. Like the SRD-6 or SRD-7._

 

Exactly, half the price will go for upgrading the normal bias energizer to a pro one. If you just want an SR-5, you'd be better off waiting for one with a normal bias energizer, of which there are plenty around.


----------



## slwiser

It is official now, I have joined the Stax Fan club now with a Gamma Pro out of my SRD-7 Pro being feed right now by my Berning micro-ZOTL at 1 watt per channel. The sound is astounding to me with its clarity and detail. Just beautiful music. I got my first taste via the SRX-1 Mk3 normal bias and this is much further up the ladder. Wonder why more of us do not start here instead of everywhere else? One day I can see myself getting a Omega something.. ..but not right now, tapped out. 

 With this at my easy chair I may have to reconsider my easy chair setup with the Yamamoto HA-02 and ALO-780J. At the easy chair this is its competition. Being closed it does not bother others as much. I should set the Stax setup up having the Lavry feed it instead of my iMod and Auricap Doc but it is so good now I want to keep on listening to it when I am over there. Right now it is the Ultrasone Edition 9 I am listening to at the computer while typing this note.


----------



## Vaughn

Yeah, I am definitely back in the Stax fold....

 I have been listening to my new SRM-T1S and Lambda Signatures for the last couple of days(courtesy of our favorite Icelandic Head-fi-er
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and I can say
 unequivocally that the Sig's completely smash the SR-404's.

 I recently owned an SRM-T1/SR-404 combination and, while I loved it, the upper midrange coloration on the 404's was a tragic flaw for me. This seems to be less of problem for some people, but to me it really was fatal...

 Imagine seeing a beautiful woman who, astonishingly, is giving you the eye.
 Then she smiles
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...you get the idea.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I am definitely back in the Stax fold....

 I have been listening to my new SRM-T1S and Lambda Signatures for the last couple of days(courtesy of our favorite Icelandic Head-fi-er
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and I can say
 unequivocally that the Sig's completely smash the SR-404's.

 I recently owned an SRM-T1/SR-404 combination and, while I loved it, the upper midrange coloration on the 404's was a tragic flaw for me. This seems to be less of problem for some people, but to me it really was fatal...

 Imagine seeing a beautiful woman who, astonishingly, is giving you the eye.
 Then she smiles
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...you get the idea._

 

How would you compare Lambda Signatures to SR-404. My understanding was that Lambda Signatures also had specific colorations.


----------



## Vaughn

I suppose it is colored, as everything must be, but whatever colorations it has are at a low enough level that I don't notice them. This was not the case with the 404's, they seemed more like a large diamond with a large colored crack in it
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambda Signatures, to me, have a more relaxed and at the same time more detailed sound than the 404's. They also seem to have more bass extension and weight, something I wasn't expecting.

 Granted, I have only spent a few days with the Sig's, but already they are the best set up I have owned or heard.


----------



## jjhatfield

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is official now, I have joined the Stax Fan club now with a Gamma Pro out of my SRD-7 Pro being feed right now by my Berning micro-ZOTL at 1 watt per channel. The sound is astounding to me with its clarity and detail. Just beautiful music. I got my first taste via the SRX-1 Mk3 normal bias and this is much further up the ladder. Wonder why more of us do not start here instead of everywhere else? One day I can see myself getting a Omega something.. ..but not right now, tapped out. 

 With this at my easy chair I may have to reconsider my easy chair setup with the Yamamoto HA-02 and ALO-780J. At the easy chair this is its competition. Being closed it does not bother others as much. I should set the Stax setup up having the Lavry feed it instead of my iMod and Auricap Doc but it is so good now I want to keep on listening to it when I am over there. Right now it is the Ultrasone Edition 9 I am listening to at the computer while typing this note._

 

Congrats slwiser!


----------



## cosmopragma

Does anyone here happen to own a manual of a SRD 7 MkII or Pro? Or even a SRD 7 manual should answer my question.

 A german acquaintance did calculate the impedance based on the specs and his result was an impedance of between 80 and 800 Ohm for a power consumption of between 0.1 and 1.0 Watt.
 I remember a Stax rep once told me that the SRDs do have a "speaker-like" impedance, and 80 up to 800 is certainly not speaker like.With such an impedance the SRDs wouldn't suit a tube amp with output transformer taps geared for 4, 8 or 16 Ohm load.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The transformer inside the adapter should handle the impedance matching.

 Welcome to the mafia slwiser, now you're family.


----------



## flame

Just wondering if anyone knows the difference between Stax 2050 and 3050? I am planning to get the 2050, wondering if anyone can give me some insight is it worth spending extra few hundred for 3050? Or should i just save up for 4040?
 I listen to Ochestra most of the time. Thanks in advance!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently owned an SRM-T1/SR-404 combination and, while I loved it, the upper midrange coloration on the 404's was a tragic flaw for me. This seems to be less of problem for some people, but to me it really was fatal..._

 

I agree. The 404 upper midrange/lower treble brightness is the worst of the Lambda series IMO. I much prefer the original SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Sig and Lambda Nova Sig. I even like the 202 better than the 404. For short listening sessions they are OK, but after about an hour I need a dose of O2 to cool off my ears.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yesterday I had fun listening to my new SR-XIII Pro (upgraded SR-XIII using Gamma Pro drivers and cord). Clean, Dynamic, Forward and Tight bass. Fantastic with acoustic Jazz. They are the Martin-Logan CLS of headphones. I was driving them with my SRM-T1W and SRM-007t with great results.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yesterday I had fun listening to my new SR-XIII Pro (upgraded SR-XIII using Gamma Pro drivers and cord). Clean, Dynamic, Forward and Tight bass. Fantastic with acoustic Jazz. They are the Martin-Logan CLS of headphones. I was driving them with my SRM-T1W and SRM-007t with great results._

 

Great to hear that you like them. Cracking little headphone...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suppose it is colored, as everything must be, but whatever colorations it has are at a low enough level that I don't notice them. This was not the case with the 404's, they seemed more like a large diamond with a large colored crack in it
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambda Signatures, to me, have a more relaxed and at the same time more detailed sound than the 404's. They also seem to have more bass extension and weight, something I wasn't expecting.

 Granted, I have only spent a few days with the Sig's, but already they are the best set up I have owned or heard._

 

Very interesting to read this. This is an excerpt from darth review back in 2000. He thought that old Signatures were more colored. 

  Quote:


 My love/hate account of the old Lambda Signature should not deter anyone from trying out the new Lambdas, which have a new diaphram material that results in less colored sound. Do try out the Stax SR-404 and SR-303, which are much cheaper than the Omegas but give you that electrostatic-delicacy family-resemblance. 
 

This just reinforces a rule about only trusting your own ears


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is official now, I have joined the Stax Fan club now with a Gamma Pro out of my SRD-7 Pro being feed right now by my Berning micro-ZOTL at 1 watt per channel. The sound is astounding to me with its clarity and detail. Just beautiful music._

 

Welcome to "Team Stax"! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Nice to see that you enjoy the Gamma Pro, and that you plan to move on further up the ladder some day.

 Enjoy!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *flame* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering if anyone knows the difference between Stax 2050 and 3050? I am planning to get the 2050, wondering if anyone can give me some insight is it worth spending extra few hundred for 3050? Or should i just save up for 4040?
 I listen to Ochestra most of the time. Thanks in advance!_

 

Different system all the way.
SRS-2050II -> SR-202 headphone and SRM-252II amplifier.
SRS-3050II -> SR-303 headphone and SRM-323II amplifier.

 At almost half the price the SRS-2050II might give more value for money. I personally would go for the SRS-2050II, to get a taste of the Stax sound. Then save the remaining money for an eventual future upgrade.
 But thats just me...


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to "Team Stax"! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Nice to see that you enjoy the Gamma Pro, and that you plan to move on further up the ladder some day.

 Enjoy!
_

 

With the clarity and precision of what I am hearing it makes me wonder if the rest of my equipment train is capable of providing what the Omega can give me? So until I could listen to a set in my system I probably never spring for that kind of expense.


----------



## flame

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to "Team Stax"! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Nice to see that you enjoy the Gamma Pro, and that you plan to move on further up the ladder some day.

 Enjoy!


 Different system all the way.
SRS-2050II -> SR-202 headphone and SRM-252II amplifier.
SRS-3050II -> SR-303 headphone and SRM-323II amplifier.

 At almost half the price the SRS-2050II might give more value for money. I personally would go for the SRS-2050II, to get a taste of the Stax sound. Then save the remaining money for an eventual future upgrade.
 But thats just me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 So you would recommend me getting the 2050II for now and save up for better setup later?
 And ya i realize the price for 3050II is almost a double, i am thinking the same way as you are too, just want a little taste of electro before i go further upgrade, because i haven't listened to any electrostatic system yet.


----------



## ktm

Well. I took the plunge today. I was at my local Stax dealer listening
 to their system, and ordered a set of SR-404's.
 My intent is to get a different amp then the one the SRS-4040
 combo uses. They had the 3030 combo out, and that combo
 sounded pretty good. I've listened to the 4040 before, and have decided 
 to mix and match for improved sound. Any suggestions?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *flame* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you would recommend me getting the 2050II for now and save up for better setup later?_

 

Yes, thats my recommendation.
 Or skip the lower end system and go straight to the SR-007 system, like I did...


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, thats my recommendation.
 Or skip the lower end system and go straight to the SR-007 system, like I did... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The little Stax transistor amp IMHO is very under rated and will give respectable results even wit the Omega II's. I use it when i go travelling and have to stay in hotels. Cant really drag along 007t or 717!!

 There is a huge difference in cost say between a 202 system and Omega, perhaps 5 or 6 times. I would look out for a used 202/212 or similar from a fellow headfier. Rather than initially sending lots more on the phones I would invest it into a really good source CD or vinyl, that way the quality of Stax will shine through which ever model you choose.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *flame* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering if anyone knows the difference between Stax 2050 and 3050? I am planning to get the 2050, wondering if anyone can give me some insight is it worth spending extra few hundred for 3050? Or should i just save up for 4040?
 I listen to Ochestra most of the time. Thanks in advance!_

 

I have not heard the very latest models but certainly i felt that the previous generation 202/303 systems were very similar sound wise and thought the extra money would be better spent on moving up to the 404's


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The little Stax transistor amp IMHO is very under rated and will give respectable results even wit the Omega II's. I use it when i go travelling and have to stay in hotels. Cant really drag along 007t or 717!!_

 

Unfortunately, the picture link is now broken, but Kevin's portable (transportable?) system has to be one of the best!

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/wh....html#post7291


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the clarity and precision of what I am hearing it makes me wonder if the rest of my equipment train is capable of providing what the Omega can give me? So until I could listen to a set in my system I probably never spring for that kind of expense._

 

Local US dealers can send you a demo pair to try out in your system, so you can make up your mind. 

 The O2 definitely needs a high-resolution source, and if its resolution exceeds your source it will start picking up all sorts of nasty artifacts. Note, though, that it will still sound good. It will sound good on most good sources as long as its drive requirements are met (i.e. with a Blue Hawaii, KGSS, or SRD-7 Pro/good speaker amp). Crap sources are of course another matter but I doubt that applies for your rig.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Unfortunately, the picture link is now broken, but Kevin's portable (transportable?) system has to be one of the best!

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/wh....html#post7291_

 







 Enjoy!


----------



## ericj

In the interest of getting some use out of them, I've extracted the transformers from my worthless 220v Koss E.9 energizer. 

 The primary on these has a DC resistance of 1.0 ohm. The secondary is 5kohm with a tap at about 2.6kohms. This isn't an abberation - both transformers read this way. Spritzer has stated that his Koss transformers lacked a center tap, but i think this is probably _close enough_ to the center. 

 My general idea here is to build something similar to an SRD-7 out of them. 

 Obviously the zobel network on the primary will necessarily be different than the Stax schematic, and maybe different from the Koss schematic as well (I'll just have to figure that out), but I can at least use a stax-style bias supply. No self-bias option, of course, as i intend to embed the whole works in the same enclosure as a solid state amplifier. Just to see if it can work and sound good. 

 Any thoughts? I forget how to calculate the step-up ratio of the transformer based on the DC resistance. I can also hook them up to an inductance meter if need be.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Local US dealers can send you a demo pair to try out in your system, so you can make up your mind. 
_

 

Actually never thought of that... I will keep this in mine. Thanks


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually never thought of that... I will keep this in mine. Thanks_

 

Deja Vu Audio in McLean is an authorized dealer. If you've never been there, it's worth a trip.

Deja Vu Audio: dealer of the high-end audio products and related products.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Enjoy!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Goodness 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




..... Is that PCDP modded? I am modding a D9 for my 001 system, (Auri output caps hiding in the battery compartment, external battery box, shared with the 001 amp)


----------



## Lornecherry

...would you mind going over the stuff in that portable kit...the big question how well will Omegas or Lambdas work with the 001 amp??

 What else is stacked in your Stax sack?


----------



## AudioCats

I would guess the 001 amp can't drive the Lambda's, a gamma pro or SR-X pro maybe (tested with my ESP950, the sound was too quiet and too mellow)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Unfortunately, the picture link is now broken, but Kevin's portable (transportable?) system has to be one of the best!

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/wh....html#post7291_

 

Yeah, Kevin's once had a really nice "portable" rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 [size=xx-small]Kevin Gilmore's Omega II rig from some years back.
 * Sony d-ej01
 * Stax SRM-212
 * Stax SR-007
 * 12 volt 7 amp-hour battery[/size]


----------



## abs@nilenet.com

FYI, that CD player looks like a D-777 and is definitely not a D-EJ01.

 Happy Listening!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, Kevin's once had a really nice "portable" rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 [size=xx-small]Kevin Gilmore's Omega II rig from some years back.
 * Sony d-ej01
 * Stax SRM-212
 * Stax SR-007
 * 12 volt 7 amp-hour battery[/size]_


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *abs@nilenet.com* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI, that CD player looks like a D-777 and is definitely not a D-EJ01.

 Happy Listening!_

 

I guess you're right.
 I simply misinterpreted Kevin's text, as he state that the picture show his older player. Whatever it is...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kevin gilmore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_portable:

 sony d-ej01
 stax omega2's with srm-212 (or my portable drive box)
 and a 12 volt 7 amphour battery.
 runs about 8 to 9 hours.

 Yes i really do this...

 this is a picture with the older player._


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the clarity and precision of what I am hearing it makes me wonder if the rest of my equipment train is capable of providing what the Omega can give me? So until I could listen to a set in my system I probably never spring for that kind of expense._

 

Are you still using a Lavry DA10?

 I still have a DA10. I think it's a good source and it would perform OK in an O2 (I assume you mean Omega 2, not SR-Omega) system. A better source will be... better, though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Two of the reasons I like electrostats are clarity and precision. Details, notes separation, imaging and soundstage coherence are the O2's strengths. I also think some other elements such as extension, bass quantity and quality, smoothness and liquidity are its strengths. I consider the slightly dark tonality, a small headstage and relatively small virtual soundstage, some lack of air, and an unexceptional midrange its weaknesses. By unexceptional midrange, I mean compared to the R10 or other headphones with a reputation for superb midrange.

 A better source will have more details as well as better clarity and precision. It will also be smoother and more liquid-sounding, without sacrificing those details. A higher degree of realism and greater immersiveness are also benefits.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vaughn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been listening to my new SRM-T1S and Lambda Signatures for the last couple of days(courtesy of our favorite Icelandic Head-fi-er
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and I can say
 unequivocally that the Sig's completely smash the SR-404's._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was driving them with my SRM-T1W and SRM-007t with great results._

 

SRM-T1S and SRM-T1W!

 I think everybody with an SRM-T1-type amp _needs_ to hear it with an SR-Omega!


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you still using a Lavry DA10?

 I still have a DA10. I think it's a good source and it would perform OK in an O2 (I assume you mean Omega 2, not SR-Omega) system. A better source will be... better, though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Two of the reasons I like electrostats are clarity and precision. Details, notes separation, imaging and soundstage coherence are the O2's strengths. I also think some other elements such as extension, bass quantity and quality, smoothness and liquidity are its strengths. I consider the slightly dark tonality, a small headstage and relatively small virtual soundstage, some lack of air, and an unexceptional midrange its weaknesses. By unexceptional midrange, I mean compared to the R10 or other headphones with a reputation for superb midrange.

 A better source will have more details as well as better clarity and precision. It will also be smoother and more liquid-sounding, without sacrificing those details. A higher degree of realism and greater immersiveness are also benefits._

 

Thanks for this comparison of Lavry's influence on the Omega 2. I think I will have to wait a while before moving up to it but it is in my future plans. We will see and having plans makes life more interesting.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the interest of getting some use out of them, I've extracted the transformers from my worthless 220v Koss E.9 energizer. 

 The primary on these has a DC resistance of 1.0 ohm. The secondary is 5kohm with a tap at about 2.6kohms. This isn't an abberation - both transformers read this way. Spritzer has stated that his Koss transformers lacked a center tap, but i think this is probably close enough to the center. 

 My general idea here is to build something similar to an SRD-7 out of them. 

 Obviously the zobel network on the primary will necessarily be different than the Stax schematic, and maybe different from the Koss schematic as well (I'll just have to figure that out), but I can at least use a stax-style bias supply. No self-bias option, of course, as i intend to embed the whole works in the same enclosure as a solid state amplifier. Just to see if it can work and sound good. 

 Any thoughts? I forget how to calculate the step-up ratio of the transformer based on the DC resistance. I can also hook them up to an inductance meter if need be._

 

The E.9 transformers had a CT but not the massive beasts found in the E.10. 

 Why don't you hook up a small AC wallwart to the transformers and see what they output? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRM-T1S and SRM-T1W!

 I think everybody with an SRM-T1-type amp needs to hear it with an SR-Omega! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Correction, everybody should first modify their T1's and then try the SR-Ω. I'm listening to this combo now as my APL was finally brought back to life yesterday with a new tube. Stunning to say the least but the Blue Hawaii is sooo much better.


----------



## randerson3024

Hey Spritzer - the internet connection is finally stable enough to get on line........

 Just last night I listened to the Lambda Nova's you sent me for the first time. I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed them.............very different from the HE 90's, which have been getting the most spin time. I plan on trying the Lambda Signatures tonight.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Spritzer - the internet connection is finally stable enough to get on line........

 Just last night I listened to the Lambda Nova's you sent me for the first time. I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed them.............very different from the HE 90's, which have been getting the most spin time. I plan on trying the Lambda Signatures tonight._

 

They are great headphones but I prefer the crisper sound of the older Lambda Signatures. 

 Have you received the SR-007Mk2?


----------



## randerson3024

The SR-007MK2 should arrive at our next port of call. It took some time for my dealer to get them.


----------



## randerson3024

Well, just as quickly as I got on line, I need to get off. I will send impressions of the SR-007 MK2 as soon as I can!


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Correction, everybody should first modify their T1's and then try the SR-Ω._

 

I can barely bias the tubes in the SRM-T1W and you're talking about modifications. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











 Ah, to be young again, with the ability to DIY and build amps...

 Er, actually that probably isn't enough, I would also need a lot of extra IQ points.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, just as quickly as I got on line, I need to get off. I will send impressions of the SR-007 MK2 as soon as I can!_

 

Dear Stax God, please, please, please make "Sir P-03/D-03" say the SR-007 Mk2 is better than the Mk1, please please. I promise not to listen to dynamics for a year.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007MK2 should arrive at our next port of call. It took some time for my dealer to get them._

 

Can't wait for some impressions as the SR-007A isn't living up to expectations, now that I've used them on something better then the computer rig or what ever amp that passed through the door. Despite the annoying bass hump they also have a midrange "honk" similar to the etch on the He60 though not quite. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can barely bias the tubes in the SRM-T1W and you're talking about modifications. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 Ah, to be young again, with the ability to DIY and build amps...

 Er, actually that probably isn't enough, I would also need a lot of extra IQ points. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You just have to look at some of the stuff that passes for quality around here and high IQ is definitely not need to "design" or build it. The T1W is a bit trickier to work on then the normal T1 as the signal is routed all over the place for the passive preamp function and the input switching but installing new wiring should be a good step forward and not cost a whole lot.


----------



## blessingx

Don't know how many srm-007t users there are out there, but I'm finding the sr-007 more than a bit polite out of it. Basically for over half my music (and not talking just Rock) I'm tending to go to the Lambda Pros instead for a bit more excitement. Keep in mind I'm a Senn man more than a Grado one, so it's not like it's all about impact for me. I prefer a balanced sound, but this setup reminds me a bit of Senns when underpowered. Anyone have a super-secret magic way of waking them up with this amp (Blue Hawaii is outside my budget and the few posts about it being the only amp scares me a tad off the 02)? Is having to crank the 007t to levels 6 -7 normal? Sounds like at least one other member uses levels significantly below that. Just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with my amp or tubes and hoping there's a solution here somewhere.

 BTW, these tests were done out of both the Lavry DA10 (variable output 45-47) and Squeezebox (100%) to test two sources.

 Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is having to crank the 007t to levels 6 -7 normal? Sounds like at least one other member uses levels significantly below that. Just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with my amp or tubes and hoping there's a solution here somewhere._

 

That person is me...
 I usually listen to a volume level of 1.5-2, while 4 and above is deafening.

 Perhaps your DA10/Squeezebox don't put out as strong signal as my ECD1? Resulting in not optimal sound..
 Cause I really love my system, and can't image how a more powerful amplifier would sound like.


----------



## gp_hebert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is having to crank the 007t to levels 6 -7 normal? Sounds like at least one other member uses levels significantly below that. Just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with my amp or tubes and hoping there's a solution here somewhere_

 

I'm using a T1S and my volume pot is usually in the 4-6 region except for some odd classical recordings for which I have to crank at 7. I don't know how similar the 007t design is to the T1S though.

 As for the politeness, I wish my setup was a little bit "edgier" too, but I found out that source can help that quite a bit. Before yesterday, I used a 0404 USB which does a good job for mid-fi headphones, but definitely bottlenecks the OII. I upgraded to the Apogee Duet which uses an excellent DAC chip and the difference is huge. The system is a lot more lively now and everything is much tighter. It still "smooths out" my rock and metal a little bit more than I wish though. I've never heard a Lavry DA10 so I don't know if it's supposed to have a warm signature, but you could try a bright source to see if it helps.

 For the amp, there are other possibilities than the Blue Hawaii like the KGSS, the Woo GES and the McAlister amps which are all significantly cheaper than the Blue Hawaii. I don't have any experience with them, but there are a lot of threads about them.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have a super-secret magic way of waking them up with this amp

 Any help would be much appreciated._

 

Do you still have your SP Extreme ? I believe it can serve as an active preamp....correct ? Try inserting it ahead of the Stax amp . Max out the volume knob on the 007t and control the volume with the Extreme. (or experiment and find out what works best) Please post your results if you could.


----------



## spritzer

Just so that it's clear, the position of the volume knob is directly proportional to the output voltage of the source. For normal 2vRMS (the standard for RCA, XLR is double that) 4-6 should be the norm through it varies from user to user.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't know how many srm-007t users there are out there, but I'm finding the sr-007 more than a bit polite out of it. Basically for over half my music (and not talking just Rock) I'm tending to go to the Lambda Pros instead for a bit more excitement. Keep in mind I'm a Senn man more than a Grado one, so it's not like it's all about impact for me. I prefer a balanced sound, but this setup reminds me a bit of Senns when underpowered. Anyone have a super-secret magic way of waking them up with this amp (Blue Hawaii is outside my budget and the few posts about it being the only amp scares me a tad off the 02)? Is having to crank the 007t to levels 6 -7 normal? Sounds like at least one other member uses levels significantly below that. Just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with my amp or tubes and hoping there's a solution here somewhere.

 BTW, these tests were done out of both the Lavry DA10 (variable output 45-47) and Squeezebox (100%) to test two sources.

 Any help would be much appreciated._

 

The O2 & O2II need drive and extension. I have a SRM-007t & 717. The 717 has the drive and extension to make my O2's "Sing like a Bird". I use my 007t to drive my many Lambda's. I had a KGSS and liked the 717 better on my O2's. Do a search in this thread for my reviews. I'm not keen on the design of the Woo GES (way way too many caps in the siginal path).


----------



## ktm

Ok, Stax gurus. I've been doing some research on Kevin Gilmore
 amps for Stax. It looks like a lot of the transistors used in those
 projects have become hard to find. I found a "all triode direct drive amp"
 project. The ac coupled version looks to be do-able. It's all point to point
 wiring, no circuit boards. Has anyone here listened to this amp, and
 how does it compare to his more popular BH and KGSS amps?


----------



## SACD-Man

The wallet gods are calling me and it's go time!!!

 This maybe the most stupid question ever, however there are never stupid questions, just stupid people..

 What are some opinions on these 2 combos:

 SR-007 Omega II Mk2 + SRM-007T II 

 or 

 SRM-007T II + Stax SRM-007tA

 Does one combination seem more of a value? Meaning is it worth the extra several hundred $$ for the newer 2008 version?

 Help!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The wallet gods are calling me and it's go time!!!

 This maybe the most stupid question ever, however there are never stupid questions, just stupid people..

 What are some opinions on these 2 combos:

 SR-007 Omega II Mk2 + SRM-007T II 

 or 

 SRM-007T II + Stax SRM-007tA

 Does one combination seem more of a value? Meaning is it worth the extra several hundred $$ for the newer 2008 version?

 Help!!_

 

Geez, can't you just try to enjoy the latest conquest of SR-5NB gold edition and Fitz amp, and not go into debt so that you'd have to frantically sell off everything else, just for small incremental gains that you wouldn't know you were missing if you were to quit head-fi now?

 Nah, neither can I...


----------



## smeggy

Well I finally got around to modding my SR-Lambdas into a kinda hybrid sigma. It's a fairly simple mod involving a big wooden wedge but it does really make them sound nice.

 I don't like the 303/404 too much, the SR-Lambda is very nice but nothing special, these sound much fuller and smoother. A warmer sound overall and I like them a lot. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1444/dsc7327jf0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7830/dsc7326yk6.jpg


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finally got around to modding my SR-Lambdas into a kinda hybrid sigma. It's a fairly simple mod involving a big wooden wedge but it does really make them sound nice.

 I don't like the 303/404 too much, the SR-Lambda is very nice but nothing special, these sound much fuller and smoother. A warmer sound overall and I like them a lot. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1444/dsc7327jf0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7830/dsc7326yk6.jpg_

 

Sweet - I would love to hear them, but since I can't maybe you could describe the changes in the sound in a little more detail for us?


----------



## ericj

A little more digging with my E.9 transformer experimentation. 

 Spritzer's suggestion of hooking it up to a small ac transformer is a good one, now i just have to figure out if i have a small ac transformer. Then maybe i can figure out the step-up ratio. 

 It appears that Koss put a 6.8 ohm resistor in series with each 1-ohm primary to achieve ~8 ohms impedance. This sounds like something I'd do, and that makes me wonder if it's Really Stupid.

 I will however attempt to use the same configuration when i do initial experiments with a spare SR-30 driver. 

 They also paralleled each of these resistors with a capacitor that is clearly marked 4.7uf but which after extracted reads 0.2uf on my LCR. Both of 'em. They're tiny, so for their age they must be either tantalum or electrolytic. Since they haven't caused any kind of catastrophic failure, I'm thinking electrolytic. 

 I don't understand why they did this. Perhaps this is the treble boost we've heard of. 

 At any rate, for E.9's that are like mine (which is unlike the koss schematic floating around), this could be another point of failure to consider when servicing them. if you're into that sort of thing. 

 there's also a pair of 47-ohm resistors in the same neighborhood which are connected to the input circuit but don't appear to be in parallel with the transformer primaries. The one on the left channel isn't connected to anything on one end, that i can see. Empty solder pad on the board. I may take the housing off my working E.9 and see if that one has a similar input section. 

 Of course, for my purposes, buying and gutting an SRD-X would make more sense, but they're rare and i don't have much money. and it wouldn't be as interesting.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet - I would love to hear them, but since I can't maybe you could describe the changes in the sound in a little more detail for us?_

 

Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep.

 The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep.

 The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either._

 

So, how long before you become a member of the trade and sell these wedges?


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep.

 The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either._

 

Were the old Lambdas more swivel-able than the new ones? I can't twist the earpieces forward very far on my SR-202, in the same way the wedges would do; there's a piece of plastic blocking the hinge.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, how long before you become a member of the trade and sell these wedges?_

 

Pah, I'm not that patient. Besides, people would be demanding quality workmanship rather than the rough hack-jobs I do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* 
_Were the old Lambdas more swivel-able than the new ones? I can't twist the earpieces forward very far on my SR-202, in the same way the wedges would do; there's a piece of plastic blocking the hinge._

 

I think there's a little more swivel on the old style but even so I am at the very limit with a 3/4" wedge. Getting a bigger angle would require surgery and I wanted it fully reversible in case it sucked. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think this is a pretty good compromise for sound and practicality.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are some opinions on these 2 combos:

 SR-007 Omega II Mk2 + SRM-007T II 

 or 

 SRM-007T II + Stax SRM-007tA

 Does one combination seem more of a value? Meaning is it worth the extra several hundred $$ for the newer 2008 version?_

 

The units in the second combo are both amps.

 I assume you mean the SR-007 + SRM-007t II or SR-007 + SRM-007tA.

 The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color.

 The first combo looks to be the "Export Version" package, which is usually more expensive than the Japan-market models. I got the SR-007 MkII from my local Stax dealer without a Stax amp. It was more expensive than the street price of the SR-007A in Japan, but I have local warranty and dealer service, and didn't have to deal with intl. shipping issues... and an all-black, better-looking headphone than the SR-007A! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There might be some very good SR-007 package deals available, including used units. It seems that several people prefer the SR-007, the original model, over the SR-007A or SR-007MkII, the latest model launched late last year.

 If the price difference is large, I would go for whichever is cheaper. I think both the SR-007 and SR-007MkII sound very good and the difference between them is a lot less than their difference with another headphone, such as the 4070 or HE60.


----------



## SACD-Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Geez, can't you just try to enjoy the latest conquest of SR-5NB gold edition and Fitz amp, and not go into debt so that you'd have to frantically sell off everything else, just for small incremental gains that you wouldn't know you were missing if you were to quit head-fi now?

 Nah, neither can I..._

 

Larry-its all your fault!!!
 My recent purchase from you will be used at my office. The Omega will then become my reference. 

 To be honest, my wallet will take a slight dent but I have an opportunity that I might not be able to pass up. This includes me just picking "whatever I want"!!

 It's go time....


----------



## SACD-Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The units in the second combo are both amps.

 I assume you mean the SR-007 + SRM-007t II or SR-007 + SRM-007tA.

 The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color.

 The first combo looks to be the "Export Version" package, which is usually more expensive than the Japan-market models. I got the SR-007 MkII from my local Stax dealer without a Stax amp. It was more expensive than the street price of the SR-007A in Japan, but I have local warranty and dealer service, and didn't have to deal with intl. shipping issues... and an all-black, better-looking headphone than the SR-007A! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There might be some very good SR-007 package deals available, including used units. It seems that several people prefer the SR-007, the original model, over the SR-007A or SR-007MkII, the latest model launched late last year.

 If the price difference is large, I would go for whichever is cheaper. I think both the SR-007 and SR-007MkII sound very good and the difference between them is a lot less than their difference with another headphone, such as the 4070 or HE60._

 

Thanks for all the info. For the most part you answered all of my questions.

 I have an opportunity that I can't pass up!!!

 Thanks~


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pah, I'm not that patient. Besides, people would be demanding quality workmanship rather than the rough hack-jobs I do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think there's a little more swivel on the old style but even so I am at the very limit with a 3/4" wedge. Getting a bigger angle would require surgery and I wanted it fully reversible in case it sucked. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think this is a pretty good compromise for sound and practicality._

 

It looks like you may have added some weight. How do they feel on your head now? The pictures tell me more than the description of what you did. Thanks. The workmanship looks OK to me. How about a dark mahogany?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A little more digging with my E.9 transformer experimentation. 

 Spritzer's suggestion of hooking it up to a small ac transformer is a good one, now i just have to figure out if i have a small ac transformer. Then maybe i can figure out the step-up ratio. 

 It appears that Koss put a 6.8 ohm resistor in series with each 1-ohm primary to achieve ~8 ohms impedance. This sounds like something I'd do, and that makes me wonder if it's Really Stupid.

 I will however attempt to use the same configuration when i do initial experiments with a spare SR-30 driver. 

 They also paralleled each of these resistors with a capacitor that is clearly marked 4.7uf but which after extracted reads 0.2uf on my LCR. Both of 'em. They're tiny, so for their age they must be either tantalum or electrolytic. Since they haven't caused any kind of catastrophic failure, I'm thinking electrolytic. 

 I don't understand why they did this. Perhaps this is the treble boost we've heard of. 

 At any rate, for E.9's that are like mine (which is unlike the koss schematic floating around), this could be another point of failure to consider when servicing them. if you're into that sort of thing. 

 there's also a pair of 47-ohm resistors in the same neighborhood which are connected to the input circuit but don't appear to be in parallel with the transformer primaries. The one on the left channel isn't connected to anything on one end, that i can see. Empty solder pad on the board. I may take the housing off my working E.9 and see if that one has a similar input section. 

 Of course, for my purposes, buying and gutting an SRD-X would make more sense, but they're rare and i don't have much money. and it wouldn't be as interesting._

 

It's such a headache to try and understand all the weird things that Koss did. When I first saw the E.10 I though it was an amp but no, just a very complicated adapter. 

 To figure out the ratio of the transformer from the impedance you divide the the secondary by the primary and take a square root of the result so that might apply to DC resistance as well? I'm too tired now to look it up...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color._

 

The A versions are identical to the export models except that the two 120v leads on the transformer have been cut so converting the amps requires a minor surgery on the transformer.


----------



## SACD-Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's such a headache to try and understand all the weird things that Koss did. When I first saw the E.10 I though it was an amp but no, just a very complicated adapter. 

 To figure out the ratio of the transformer from the impedance you divide the the secondary by the primary and take a square root of the result so that might apply to DC resistance as well? I'm too tired now to look it up...



 The A versions are identical to the export models except that the two 120v leads on the transformer have been cut so converting the amps requires a minor surgery on the transformer._

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me....


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* 
_Overall, very positive changes. Doesn't look as daft either._

 

You old daft-dodger you. 

 They look great, the mod is simple, it's a good compromise between the Lambda and Sigma-- what's not to like?


----------



## smeggy

Hehe

 They are really nice. One of the reasons I went for the rock maple is that although it's tightly packed grain, it doesn't weigh much. They look bulky and heavy but it is a wedge and is mostly hollow so with the wide weight distribution of the Lambda strap and pads it's hardly noticeable when wearing them. It's a very transparent mod. 

 Mahogany would weigh more. It'd look nice but I rather like the contrast of the maple


----------



## malldian

I have the SR-44's coming in a couple days - can someone point me to some reading (with I had time to go through 456 pages) as to dynamic vs electrostatic vs electrolet headphones?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ a good compromise between the Lambda and Sigma_

 

I wonder if the best compromise between a Lambda and Sigma isn't just to get a Sigma. Great housing. And so stylish.


----------



## Duggeh

I wouldn't compromise between a Lambda and a Sigma. I'd just go for the Sigma. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Better yet, have a modular design, so you can just snap the driver unit in and out of your choice of shape.


----------



## wualta

Long ago I suggested that Stax admit that AKG had a good idea with the K1000 and make an improved Lambda derivative with adjustable driver angle. 

 I confess, I've long suspected that Jurg Jecklin had something to do with the design of the Sigma.


----------



## smeggy

I still haven't heard a Sigma. Never even seen one in the flesh. As to buying one, not at current prices. They're getting way too rich for my poor wallet. I'll get one some day in the future when I find an affordable pair, I have patience, I can wait.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I don't care how good the Sigma were/are, they are just too goofy looking for me to stick one on my head, making me spend 3x as much for HE60 instead.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't care how good the Sigma were/are, they are just too goofy looking for me to stick one on my head, making me spend 3x as much for HE60 instead. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

HE60 sound and comfort tis lovely. And it definitely gets used as the headphone of choice.

 But I still go back to my Sigmas at times - once a Sigma addict, always a Sigma addict.


----------



## smeggy

I dunno, I guess I'd be just as happy with some old Lambda drivers and making my own Sigma variant.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Always


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dunno, I guess I'd be just as happy with some old Lambda drivers and making my own Sigma variant._

 

If you're going to put in that sort of effort use 404 drivers and make a Sigma-404 variant.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finally got around to modding my SR-Lambdas into a kinda hybrid sigma. It's a fairly simple mod involving a big wooden wedge but it does really make them sound nice.

 I don't like the 303/404 too much, the SR-Lambda is very nice but nothing special, these sound much fuller and smoother. A warmer sound overall and I like them a lot. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1444/dsc7327jf0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7830/dsc7326yk6.jpg_

 

Interesting indeed! 

 One thing to realize about the Sigma driver placement is that it results in no direct auditory soundwave wave from the driver to the eardrum, unlike virtually every other phone ever made except possibly the AKG 1000.

 This is an important point about psychoacoustics. Sounds originating ahead of a listener do not go directly to the ear drum, only when the sound source is close to the side of the listener do you get a direct sound to the eardrum. All other sounds bounce off the pinna and then into the ear canal and then to the eardrum.

 One could argue that virtually every headphone gets it wrong by because by giving a direct feed to the eardrum it recreates the effect of a sound off to the side.

 Your design looks like it reduces the direct wave somewhat but not as much as the Sigma. 

 I wish more companies would experiment with the Sigma configuration. Admittedy it looks like crap.


----------



## smeggy

Hmmm, I do have a set of Gamma drivers sitting here doing nothing.....

 *strokes chin*


----------



## bjarnetv

maybe its time to convert the jecklin floats to sigma configuration; it really shouldnt be to hard to make a pair of boxes to mount instead of the grill as its a perfect fit... coincidence?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Heartbroken: the SR-5/SRD-7 Mk.II combo mentioned earlier on this thread went for a relatively bargain price. I thought the interest shown on it here would drive the price up (I only wanted the SRD-7 Mk.II in any case).

 As it was, my auto-bidding software let me down (yet again) -- I was out all day -- and it went for €30 less than I'd bid...

 ...I'm inconsolable!


----------



## blessingx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the politeness, I wish my setup was a little bit "edgier" too, but I found out that source can help that quite a bit. Before yesterday, I used a 0404 USB which does a good job for mid-fi headphones, but definitely bottlenecks the OII. I upgraded to the Apogee Duet which uses an excellent DAC chip and the difference is huge. The system is a lot more lively now and everything is much tighter. It still "smooths out" my rock and metal a little bit more than I wish though. I've never heard a Lavry DA10 so I don't know if it's supposed to have a warm signature, but you could try a bright source to see if it helps.

 For the amp, there are other possibilities than the Blue Hawaii like the KGSS, the Woo GES and the McAlister amps which are all significantly cheaper than the Blue Hawaii. I don't have any experience with them, but there are a lot of threads about them._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you still have your SP Extreme ? I believe it can serve as an active preamp....correct ? Try inserting it ahead of the Stax amp . Max out the volume knob on the 007t and control the volume with the Extreme. (or experiment and find out what works best) Please post your results if you could._

 

Thanks for the feedback buys. The thing is I bought the 007t after I realized the price it would cost to get the GES or KGSS with similar features - that I use. Basically getting a normal bias jack (or second amp) and a loop/preamp (or second source). That moves both amps past a smallish $500 bump.

 I haven't decided about source, but I respect the Lavry quite a bit and like its synergy on my other equipment. Plus the Pico (yeah that little thing) is surprising good with everything else I've tried it with and a tad more forward.

 I suspect unfortunately in the end the 02s may not be for me without investing a bunch more (maybe even still?), and long as I'm pulled between electros and dynas that won't happen soon.

 I used 'polite' describing the signature as that's my issue with them. They don't sound wrong so much as asleep. And we're talking mostly bluegrass, folk, etc., not rock, electronica, etc. It really does sound like a HD600 underpowered. You crank the volume past comfortable listening levels to try to bring them alive. Not good and you never really hit your target anyway. There's plenty I like about the 007s sound (not least of which is the etchiness disappearance in comparison with the Lambda Pros), but it just doesn't seem suited for much music on my rig. 

 I did some listening with the Extreme as a pre-amp, both before posting and a bunch since this holiday weekend. It certainly has an affect on the sound, but maybe not surprising, more to increase volume and a little to 'fill in', than to 'bring alive'. This was with a few tube options. Overall the sound still sounds a bit 'compressed', midrange distant and the dynamic range doesn't reach nearly what I suspect the phones are capable of.

 It's tempting to say there's bad synergy between the 007t and 007, but they were sold together, some seem to like them, and a lot of music sounds great with them. Even the much criticized amp portion of the baby Orpheus performs better overall better in my trials as a package. 

 Again I know there are plenty of 007 fans. I've tried and trying (maybe like no phone in a few years) to like them, but they may not be in the cards. Maybe I'll retreat to 4070s or Signatures, if not hold at the Pros. 

 Thanks again for the advice. If anyone has any other please speak up, but I'm running out of magic options. Tube rolling the 007t?

 EDIT: I've been running the Lavry at maximum (56) which is much higher than I or anyone I've know runs it. It's better for sure. Still too polite, but I'll try to adjust over the course of the week and see.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still haven't heard a Sigma. Never even seen one in the flesh. As to buying one, not at current prices._

 

Yes, the Sigma isn't such a jump up from an SR-Lambda, certainly not worth it when price is a factor. The major differences are soundstage and musicality, and of course here as elsewhere one man's musicality is another man's lack of precision. The Lambda preserves much of the Sigma's goodness in a far simpler housing, while contributing its own unmistakable character. It's clear that Stax decided the Lambda was the way forward, and the Sigma only a stepping stone, a way to think outside the box (or into a speaker box?) to reach new solutions. 

 But this is what is so appealing about the Sigma: it's the real deal, the pure version of a step forward. The front-mounted drivers are crazy, turning all preconceptions about the need for small earcup volume on their head. And it's remarkable how well the experiment works; it's a great sound.

 Can anyone tell me, though, whether the Lambda was already on the books when the Sigma appeared? In other words, were those drivers developed for the Sigma housing or with the Lambda also already in mind?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're going to put in that sort of effort use 404 drivers and make a Sigma-404 variant. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I've heard this speculation before, but do we know that it really works any better than the original? There's such a nice synergy between the housing and driver, I'd be afraid of losing that pleasing sound. But hey, I don't even have a Sigma myself.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Admittedy it looks like crap._

 

I like the appearance, at least off the head. It's clearly a more expensive and nicer housing than the Lambda. Does it look ridiculous on? Yes, but only a little more ridiculous than other headphones we wear all the time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Long ago I suggested that Stax admit that AKG had a good idea with the K1000 and make an improved Lambda derivative with adjustable driver angle._

 

It's maddening that with all the driver redesigns, that the housing has never been improved. But why an adjustable angle? Wouldn't potential resonance issues outweigh the advantages? At most, I could see the justification for a two-position design, one near-flat, one quite indirect. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I confess, I've long suspected that Jurg Jecklin had something to do with the design of the Sigma._

 

Really? It looks so different from the way his mind usually turned, both in massing and the choice of many small parts when he was a fan of a unibody frame. Also, he never seems to have gone with the fully-indirect idea (unless you count the Jecklin disc), so the Stax almost out-Jecklin Jecklin.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_But this is what is so appealing about the Sigma: it's the real deal, the pure version of a step forward. The front-mounted drivers are crazy, turning all preconceptions about the need for small earcup volume on their head. And it's remarkable how well the experiment works; it's a great sound._

 

I've never heard a Sigma, but going strictly by the comparisons and descriptions, I get a general sense of extreme mellowness-- rolled-off (tilted?) treble, floppy bass. But that's just the SQ. Spatially I'm fully prepared to believe that they're something special, and I'd love to try a binaural recording on them. Mr. (Dr.?) Hayashi was obviously wanting to close the gap between the best things about speakers and the best things about headphones, and the Sigma was a worthy attempt. Very expensive, small market, definitely not for everybody.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_Can anyone tell me, though, whether the Lambda was already on the books when the Sigma appeared? In other words, were those drivers developed for the Sigma housing or with the Lambda also already in mind?_

 

I don't know, but while we're waiting for the Staxperts to show up, I'm gonna guess they were made for the Sigma, because you'd need a big diaphragm to keep the ear in the nearfield with that spacing. But it's also the logical next step for Stax: from the SR-X Mk 2 to the Mk 3 there's a small but significant jump in diaphragm size. The only way to go is bigger.

 The AKG K1000 is a better idea in one way: the position of the driver is user-adjustable. If only there was a way to adjust both sides together.

 Both ideas run the risk, if taken to the logical extreme, of making the headphones too big/bulky/heavy to be considered headphones any more.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_It's maddening that with all the driver redesigns, that the housing has never been improved. But why an adjustable angle? Wouldn't potential resonance issues outweigh the advantages? At most, I could see the justification for a two-position design, one near-flat, one quite indirect._

 

How about two click stops for your positions (0 and 90 degrees), but the ability to place the drivers at any angle in between, especially if you could force both sides to move in sync. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_Stax almost out-Jecklin Jecklin._

 

That's the aspect I was going for, albeit in only a tongue-in-cheeky way. It's wild, it's wacky, and most important, it sacrifices raw SQ for a philosophical ideal. That's the similarity.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* 
_One could argue that virtually every headphone gets it wrong by because by giving a direct feed to the eardrum it recreates the effect of a sound off to the side._

 

Excellent point. This leads us directly to the elephant in the room problem of nearly all commercial recordings being recorded for speakers, so that when fed from the side instead of the front they sound trapped inside the skull or just outside the skull, crawling around on your face. Eww.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me, though, whether the Lambda was already on the books when the Sigma appeared? In other words, were those drivers developed for the Sigma housing or with the Lambda also already in mind?_

 

The Sigma came first. My old "High End" audio store was a huge Stax dealer. The Sigma was not a big success, nearly a third of my sales were returned. Most of my customers were upgrading from a SR-XIII. Stax scrambled to get the SR-Lambda out using the same driver. The SR-Lambda was a huge success.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma came first. My old "High End" audio store was a huge Stax dealer. The Sigma was not a big success, nearly a third of my sales were returned. Most of my customers were upgrading from a SR-XIII. Stax scrambled to get the SR-Lambda out using the same driver. The SR-Lambda was a huge success._

 

That's correct. What Stax needed was a replacement for the SR-XMk3 and the Lambda filled that role. A pre 1979 Sigma is also a bit different then the later models, cloth covered cable and the different bottom plates to go with them. The drivers also had different terminals for the press on connectors Stax used back in the day.


----------



## bjarnetv

speaking of sigmas and k1000s; didnt sony release their own "k1000" recently? has anyone ever tried it, or heard of anyone trying it?


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Basically getting a normal bias jack (or second amp) and a loop/preamp (or second source). That moves both amps past a smallish $500 bump._

 

geez, I'm in the wrong line of work


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the Sigma isn't such a jump up from an SR-Lambda, certainly not worth it when price is a factor._

 

To me it is and it's well worth the money
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never heard a Sigma, but going strictly by the comparisons and descriptions, I get a general sense of extreme mellowness-- rolled-off (tilted?) treble, floppy bass. But that's just the SQ. Spatially I'm fully prepared to believe that they're something special, and I'd love to try a binaural recording on them. Mr. (Dr.?) Hayashi was obviously wanting to close the gap between the best things about speakers and the best things about headphones, and the Sigma was a worthy attempt. Very expensive, small market, definitely not for everybody._

 

No, the Sigma is not extremely mellow, nor is rolled-off. Treble is a bit rolled-off but the bass is actually better than SR-Lambda. It does not go very deep but it has impact and it extends all the way to about 25hz without any problems. Because of the mid-bass spike it feels better more natural, although not as snappy and tight. Binaural recordings are nothing special on Sigma, but regular recordings designed for speakers sound the way they were intended to sound on speakers. I feel that SR-sigma is the best headphone I was, clearly superior to SR-Lambda, SR-303 and ESP950 and in my book not even comparable to SR-X, SR-Gamma and SR-3 clones. 

 Yeah, I am biased as I am a soundstage freak


----------



## smeggy

I've never found soundstage very convincing on any headphones, not even my fabled K1000s so it winds up being of little or no significance to me. Headphones just can't pull it off when recordings are made for speakers and/or have extreme channel separation which is still very common even today. Some can do it quite well 'for a headphone' but that's not saying much and binaural recordings aren't exactly common.

 I'm going to try some makeshift Sigma-style phones and see how I like them and go from there. Should be interesting if nothing else


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never found soundstage very convincing on any headphones, not even my fabled K1000s so it winds up being of little or no significance to me. Headphones just can't pull it off when recordings are made for speakers and/or have extreme channel separation which is still very common even today. Some can do it quite well 'for a headphone' but that's not saying much and binaural recordings aren't exactly common._

 

I feel the same way. To me headphone listening brings me closer to the emotion of the music. I hear purity that no speaker can deliver (and I have full range stats). If I want to have a performance in front of me (like in real life) I listen to my speakers. Headphones can retrieve ambiance and spatial cues but it is mixed up around your head. I agree that binaural recordings are a different story.


----------



## edstrelow

I find the Sigma soundstage/perspective is very convincing with some kinds of music. I was recently at a performance of Verdi's Otello in Los Angeles and on coming home wondered how my Sigmas would perform with my old Decca recording. The sense of forward projection with the phones really did bring back the sense of the opera hall.


----------



## Faust2D

What I can not get with headphones is not as much the soundstage but more the acoustic pressure (bass especially) and the room interaction that I get with speakers. The soundstage is also a big problem for all headphones, but Sigma pulls it off better than anything else I have. Ultimately no headphone I heard can compete with my relatively cheap Apogee speakers and even less so with my S.A.P Trio system, but I can get close enough to make my evening listing enjoyable and Stax does the best job of them all so far


----------



## smeggy

The modded Lambdas do a decent job of pushing sounds to the front, much better than standard. With most headphones the sound has a tendency to come from the sides, middle and also the rear more than the front, I guess it's partly having the sound going directly into the ear from the sides with nothing to give real spatial cues which is where the Sigma and K1000 have the advantage. There's a lot to be said for reflected sound.

 It's odd how so many people say their phones give a great soundstage when in my experience most phones really suck at it.

 Anyway, with this in mind I did some quick hacking to test the Gamma-Sigma thingy theory and I've deduced they're going to look just as dumb as real Sigmas but in a different way. No idea if they'll sound good or suck ass but what the hell.


----------



## Rob N

Sorry if this has already been dicusssed but in the UK you can get an 'SE' version of the 007tII 'with super high spec valves, valve cooler/dampers and extremely careful set-up'.

 Has anyone heard this?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heartbroken: the SR-5/SRD-7 Mk.II combo mentioned earlier on this thread went for a relatively bargain price. I thought the interest shown on it here would drive the price up (I only wanted the SRD-7 Mk.II in any case)._

 

Yes, €136 seems like a really nice price. As the SRD-7 MK2 alone usually sell for more...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rob N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this has already been dicusssed but in the UK you can get an 'SE' version of the 007tII 'with super high spec valves, valve cooler/dampers and extremely careful set-up'.

 Has anyone heard this?_

 

This is basically what we are all doing to the various Stax tube amps but I doubt that they are using the best tubes for the job i.e. NOS Japanese tubes.


----------



## bjarnetv

NOOOOO!!! it seems the cable on my sigma is starting to die!
 the right channel keeps fading out, but comes back when i move around.
 i cant see any damage on the cable though, so maybe its the connection to the drivers thats bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 i cant figure out how to open them to check the connections though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , so anyone have any idea what might be wrong?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NOOOOO!!! it seems the cable on my sigma is starting to die!
 the right channel keeps fading out, but comes back when i move around.
 i cant see any damage on the cable though, so maybe its the connection to the drivers thats bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i cant figure out how to open them to check the connections though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , so anyone have any idea what might be wrong?_

 

There is almost zero chance that the connection on the drivers is damaged so it's most likely a break in the strain relief as it enters the housing. The bad news are that there are no 6 pin replacements to be had from Stax so unless some old distributor has some you need to cannibalize a Lambda or Sigma or just use a 5 pin cable.


----------



## ludoo

I just put on the SR-3 New I bought from spritzer, and I've never heard something so "right". I'm totally impressed, and I cannot even begin to think how high end Stax phones and amps sound.

 Now I know where my money will go in the (hopefully near) future. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction.


----------



## bjarnetv

how much would a new cable cost, and how do you pull the sigma apart?
 i removed the 4 outer screws, but there are obviously more hidden somewhere


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just put on the SR-3 New I bought from spritzer, and I've never heard something so "right". I'm totally impressed, and I cannot even begin to think how high end Stax phones and amps sound.

 Now I know where my money will go in the (hopefully near) future. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cool and congrats. I wonder whether the SR-3 or SR-5N would sound better overall as I've found numerous times newer isn't always better.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just put on the SR-3 New I bought from spritzer, and I've never heard something so "right". I'm totally impressed, and I cannot even begin to think how high end Stax phones and amps sound.

 Now I know where my money will go in the (hopefully near) future. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Glad you like them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About the high end... lest just say that the SR-007 playing SACD's isn't half bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how much would a new cable cost, and how do you pull the sigma apart?
 i removed the 4 outer screws, but there are obviously more hidden somewhere 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The cable price depends on where you get them from. You can start by contacting the Scandinavian Stax distributor in Denmark (the address is on the Stax site) and also ask EIFL for a quote. The Wide PC-OCC cable I've bought in the past have been around 100$ so the normal OFC ribbon (black SR-202 cable) should be much less then that. 

 To open them up you need to remove one of the screws which supports the headband (i.e. where the pin enters the housing), the back one if I remember correctly. Be very careful when opening them as if you pull on the drivers the metal contacts might break free and then you have a nice paperweight. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The cable will also be glued in place so some careful use of a knife is required. I've converted enough of Sigmas by now to truly respect the fragile beast...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool and congrats. I wonder whether the SR-3 or SR-5N would sound better overall as I've found numerous times newer isn't always better._

 

I have had both, and I sold the SR-3 (like new from Birgir) and kept both pairs of SR-5NB gold (only to sell one to SACD-man when he couldn't find any). I thought the SR-5NB was a little more sparkly and transparent, or I could say the SR-3 were a little darker and thicker sounding. The SR-3 was just okay to my ears, but the SR-5NB gold edition to me are great.


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Be very careful when opening them as if you pull on the drivers the metal contacts might break free and then you have a nice paperweight. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The cable will also be glued in place so some careful use of a knife is required. I've converted enough of Sigmas by now to truly respect the fragile beast..._

 

sounds like a nice little beginners project then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but how can a five pin cable work on a normal bias phone? is the sixth pin just a safety measure?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sounds like a nice little beginners project then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but how can a five pin cable work on a normal bias phone? is the sixth pin just a safety measure?_

 

There were originally two bias pins (connected at the socket though) and Stax just combined both of them into the R one for the Pro bias. You still have 3 wires to each earpieces so the wiring is the same.


----------



## smeggy

I have a question or two for you Sigma owners.

 1 - Is the earcup housing sealed or is it completely open with just a little damping from the glass fiber? From the pictures it looks open but it's hard to tell for sure.

 2 - The driver mounting.. is it just mounted backwards with the cable connectors inside of the cups? I'm guessing yes and are they wired backwards as a result to fix polarity.

 It'll be handy to know as I attempt to make my faux Sigmas.


----------



## plaidplatypus

My Sigma Pro is going unused. If you are willing to pay for shipping both ways. You can use it for a model.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Sigma Pro is going unused. If you are willing to pay for shipping both ways. You can use it for a model._

 

Woah, Thanks plaidplatypus! 

 Awesome gesture. Expect a PM this evening. 8)


----------



## bjarnetv

looking forward to seeing some homemade sigmas


----------



## krmathis

Voltron. Thanks for the beautiful pictures and the write-up.
 I have to admit that I like the looks of the GES. Sounds like it match up nicely with the 4070 and SR-007 as well, which is a requirement.

 Enjoy it as long as you have it in house!


----------



## audiod

Does anybody have any information on the HeadAmp KGST hybrid amp due at the end of 2008?


----------



## aaron313

Oh lord, what treasures await in the second half of 2008. I am definitely getting the O2 at some point this year, and I want to make the correct amp choice the first time. What I really want is some stability in the aftermarket electrostatic amp market, where I don't have to make a snap decision.


----------



## Cecala

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh lord, what treasures await in the second half of 2008. I am definitely getting the O2 at some point this year, and I want to make the correct amp choice the first time. What I really want is some stability in the aftermarket electrostatic amp market, where I don't have to make a snap decision._

 

While you're agonizing over the correct amp to choose throw this into the mix,
 spritzer has sort of mentioned, theorized would be more accurate, about the Omega 3 coming out possibly this year!!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While you're agonizing over the correct amp to choose throw this into the mix,
 spritzer has sort of mentioned, theorized would be more accurate, about the Omega 3 coming out possibly this year!!!_

 

While thats certainly possible, I don't think it will happen this year.

 Stax released the SR-007 / SR-007BL in 1998, and it took them nine years to come up with an successor (improvement or not). The SR-007A and SR-007MK2 which were released late 2007.
 There are also the fact that the SR-007's after ten years still stand strong against its in-production competitors. Hence no "real" need of a major update.

 That said. I can't wait for the Omega 3 (SR-"something"), and sure hope they are released sooner rather than later. Cause I am sure its being worked on...


----------



## audiod

Birgir,
 What are your thoughts on the Woo GES design? When the amp first came out I was going to order it, but after all the negative comments that it used a older Kevin Gilmore design that Kevin stated was bettered by the KGSS I changed my mind. Kevin said that the design had tubby bass and rolled off highs as compared to the KGSS. I certainly don’t want tubby bass and rolled off highs on the SR-007’s. It also has NINE coupling caps, per channel, in the signal path (that can’t be good). Have you heard it? The GES chassis design and layout look very nice. I’m extremely happy driving my O2 & O2mk2 with my SRM-717.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody have any information on the HeadAmp KGST hybrid amp due at the end of 2008?_

 

I've never seen the schematic but I belive it's a KGSS like front end with 6SA's for output duty. It's not all that like the Blue Hawaii but it could be a very good amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cecala* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While you're agonizing over the correct amp to choose throw this into the mix,
 spritzer has sort of mentioned, theorized would be more accurate, about the Omega 3 coming out possibly this year!!!_

 

There is not a chance that SR-007Mk2/A will be superseded any time soon. It simply makes no financial sense to come up with an even more expensive model when the SR-007 is selling better then any high end headphone ever has. It could happen but the odds are slim to none. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir,
 What are your thoughts on the Woo GES design? When the amp first came out I was going to order it, but after all the negative comments that it used a older Kevin Gilmore design that Kevin stated was bettered by the KGSS I changed my mind. Kevin said that the design had tubby bass and rolled off highs as compared to the KGSS. I certainly don’t want tubby bass and rolled off highs on the SR-007’s. It also has NINE coupling caps, per channel, in the signal path (that can’t be good). Have you heard it? The GES chassis design and layout look very nice. I’m extremely happy driving my O2 & O2mk2 with my SRM-717._

 

I've never heard it but I've nearly pulled the trigger quite a few times. The only thing that held me back were all those caps and the cost of replacing them with some nice Mundorfs and that the amp uses ECC83's which are more trouble then they are worth. A fully upgraded GES is well in the range of a DIY Blue Hawaii but it is very well built and the mods the Woo did to the PSU might give it better handling of the SR-007.


----------



## J-Pak

Been on team Omega 2 for a few days now, it's great


----------



## Faust2D

How is Maiden on O2?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How is Maiden on O2? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm still in the honeymoon period so take this with some skepticism. But honestly it is the best I've heard on headphones so far. Speakers...that's another story 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Even with my pretty basic amplification the Omega 2 can definitely rock hard.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Been on team Omega 2 for a few days now, it's great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC04057.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC04064.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC04070.jpg_

 

Nice! Welcome to *Team Omega II*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Seems like its hooked up to normal bias though. At least it seems to be hooked up to an SRD-7SB, while the one next to it is an SRD-7 Pro...


 I also notice that your pair use a different flight case than mine.
 Picture you posted in another thread: http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/j-pak/1.jpg
 Mine have rounded outer corners, and form cut foam inside. Minor difference, but I made a notice of it..


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! Welcome to *Team Omega II*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Seems like its hooked up to normal bias though. At least it seems to be hooked up to an SRD-7SB, while the one next to it is an SRD-7 Pro...


 I also notice that your pair use a different flight case than mine.
 Picture you posted in another thread: http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/j-pak/1.jpg
 Mine have rounded outer corners, and form cut foam inside. Minor difference, but I made a notice of it.._

 

Good eye! I had it hooked up the normal bias transformer box just to make sure the headphones worked. The Pro box is what I'm using. Birgir told me a bit about the flight case- it's just an older version. But it looks really cool in person, hard to photograph that carbon fiber look with my P&S camera.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody have any information on the HeadAmp KGST hybrid amp due at the end of 2008?_

 

Well you might find out if you can ever get Justin of Headamp to reply to your emails!!

 On average it seems to take about 6 weeks from sending an email to recieving a reply. Veeeeeeeeeeeeeery.................frustrating


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well you might find out if you can ever get Justin of Headamp to reply to your emails!!

 On average it seems to take about 6 weeks from sending an email to recieving a reply. Veeeeeeeeeeeeeery.................frustrating
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You know he receives a few hundred emails a day. I can't blame him for not answering an email about a product he has never officially announced on the top of his to do list, especially considering how busy he is with Pico orders and the BHSE.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good eye! I had it hooked up the normal bias transformer box just to make sure the headphones worked. The Pro box is what I'm using. Birgir told me a bit about the flight case- it's just an older version. But it looks really cool in person, hard to photograph that carbon fiber look with my P&S camera._

 

For a while I wondered why you did not run them at Pro bias, but now I know it were just for testing.
 Puh! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Picture of my case, for comparison.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know he receives a few hundred emails a day. I can't blame him for not answering an email about a product he has never officially announced on the top of his to do list, especially considering how busy he is with Pico orders and the BHSE._

 

That may be so, but he does not even answer emails about things he is building! I sent him an email a month ago and still no reply................


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know he receives a few hundred emails a day._

 

That would mean at least 50 emails per amp sold, and probably more like 100. I seriously doubt he receives more than a couple dozen business-related emails on a busy day. Still, personal responses to a couple of dozen emails would mean at least one full unpaid hour of work per day, including weekends. Kind of a pain for a one-man operation.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would mean at least 50 emails per amp sold, and probably more like 100. I seriously doubt he receives more than a couple dozen business-related emails on a busy day. Still, personal responses to a couple of dozen emails would mean at least one full unpaid hour of work per day, including weekends. Kind of a pain for a one-man operation._

 

Yes I agree, but the irony of it is i'm trying to buy one of his products and potentially spend several thousand dollars with the guy. To be honest its really turning me off making any purchase, so what happens in future if i have a problem? Its really, really painful


----------



## Lornecherry

I emailed him a month ago about ordering a KGBH Special Edition ...which I assume, is several thousand dollars. Never got a reply.
 If he's _that_ busy, then he needs to hire and assistant ...it is after all, a business.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lornecherry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I emailed him a month ago about ordering a KGBH Special Edition ...which I assume, is several thousand dollars. Never got a reply.
 If he's that busy, then he needs to hire and assistant ...it is after all, a business._

 

At least I know its not just me then..........


----------



## Voltron

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lornecherry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I emailed him a month ago about ordering a KGBH Special Edition ...which I assume, is several thousand dollars. Never got a reply.
 If he's that busy, then he needs to hire and assistant ...it is after all, a business._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At least I know its not just me then.........._

 

The current run of KGBH SE was sold out as of a month ago, so I'm not sure what he could do to appease you. Another will not be made for some time. In general, Justin is suffering from the success of the Pico because he spends hours and hours a day just trying to build, test, and ship them all, plus get out other orders, plus deal with correspondence, plus attempting to have a life. You don't have to sympathize with him but in my opinion you should either accept the limitations of a one-man shop or go elsewhere for your gear.


----------



## Voltron

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi. I have been discussing buying a GES with Jack via emails this month. Jack just did some upgrades to my WA6 that sound wonderful, as I just got it back a couple of days ago. Now I am trying to justify NOT doing the max upgrades on a GES, to make it more affordable, while at the same time spending money to make the WA6 better. Doh!

 It sure would be helpful if I was able to demo/review the prototype GES that you have. I realize that could get complicated pretty easily. Could you at least verify with Jack whether it is a basic model or upgraded? If it is the basic model and you like it so much, then I would feel better about ordering the basic model for my HE60 (stax plug) and SR-Lambda Sigs. Thanks!_

 

This model was characterized by Jack as the prototype that is not even up the level of the current stock production model. I am certain it is not the upgraded model he is currently offering.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir,
 What are your thoughts on the Woo GES design? When the amp first came out I was going to order it, but after all the negative comments that it used a older Kevin Gilmore design that Kevin stated was bettered by the KGSS I changed my mind. Kevin said that the design had tubby bass and rolled off highs as compared to the KGSS. I certainly don’t want tubby bass and rolled off highs on the SR-007’s. It also has NINE coupling caps, per channel, in the signal path (that can’t be good). Have you heard it? The GES chassis design and layout look very nice. I’m extremely happy driving my O2 & O2mk2 with my SRM-717._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never heard it but I've nearly pulled the trigger quite a few times. The only thing that held me back were all those caps and the cost of replacing them with some nice Mundorfs and that the amp uses ECC83's which are more trouble then they are worth. A fully upgraded GES is well in the range of a DIY Blue Hawaii but it is very well built and the mods the Woo did to the PSU might give it better handling of the SR-007._

 

I had heard rumors of the type you mention, audiod, but when I posed the question elsewhere as to whether the GES was somehow a poor circuit design or poor in relation to other Gilmore designs, Birgir said there was not truth to that assertion. He mentioned that it does not have the same power as later designs and has a lot of capacitors in the signal path, in his opinion, but that was all.

 I have heard it and have listened with a variety of cans. It is a very nice sounding amp and I believe that even the stock production model beats this prototype. The price to performance ratio is very high, especially when considering that the stock GES will drive Stax far better than even the 007tII in my opinion.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I could use a little advice here, please.

 I will get my HE60 back this week, and will get to try them with my SRD-7 Pro and a Nuforce Icon 12 watt per channel speaker amp that has gotten high praise on 6moons (I will try this with my Lambda Sigs and SR-003 soon, but I have been ill and without the energy to mess with it lately). I could also consider something like an Almarro A205a Mk2 speaker amp with the SRD-7 Pro, which is still considerably cheaper than a dedicated stat amp like the GES (less than half the cost of a maxed GES). I did not get to spend much time at all with the SRD-7 Pro before I sent the HE60 back to Sennheiser for new drivers, but my brief experience with a Travagans Red 5 wpc amp was promising when compared to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (very similar sound). I do not plan to drive speakers at all, only the SRD-7 Pro.

 My questions are, 

 (1) when teamed with a high quality speaker amp, will the SRD-7 Pro be able to replicate the experience of a good stat amp like the GES or KGSS? It seems many people are satisfied with their SR-007 via SRD-7 Pro and a speaker amp.

 (2) And, what areas would the SRD-7 Pro with good amp excel or suffer vs a dedicated stat amp - in terms of dynamics, micro-detail, soundstage/headstage, accuracy, coloration and truthfulness?

 (3) When compared to my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (or even an SR-007t or 717), wouldn't the baseline GES (WITHOUT the $650 upgrades to caps) still be a noticeable upgrade in sound quality and driving power?

 Thanks!

 Larry


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

*Looks like #3 was answered while I was composing my message above.*


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had heard rumors of the type you mention, audiod, but when I posed the question elsewhere as to whether the GES was somehow a poor circuit design or poor in relation to other Gilmore designs, Birgir said there was not truth to that assertion. He mentioned that it does not have the same power as later designs and has a lot of capacitors in the signal path, in his opinion, but that was all.

 I have heard it and have listened with a variety of cans. It is a very nice sounding amp and I believe that even the stock production model beats this prototype. The price to performance ratio is very high, especially when considering that the stock GES will drive Stax far better than even the 007tII in my opinion._

 

You will always hear the caps in the signal path but the design is a lot better then the Egmont or the Stax amps. They are also capacitor coupled but Stax uses the excelent Vishay PP caps and it's only the output stage which is CC coupled on the 007t. Since I have one 007t here going through a complete rebuild I'm thinking about installing a quad of 6SA's (same as in the GES) instead of the 6CG7's. Should have interesting results...


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voltron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The current run of KGBH SE was sold out as of a month ago, so I'm not sure what he could do to appease you. Another will not be made for some time. In general, Justin is suffering from the success of the Pico because he spends hours and hours a day just trying to build, test, and ship them all, plus get out other orders, plus deal with correspondence, plus attempting to have a life. You don't have to sympathize with him but in my opinion you should either accept the limitations of a one-man shop or go elsewhere for your gear._

 

Isn’t it common courtesy to reply to emails and correspondence? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Especially if you are operating as a business, I appreciate his problems, even an acknowledgement would suffice.
 My trail of contact goes back before last Christmas, so its not that I’ve just asked to order something in the last few weeks . I was planning to organise a holiday in America so that I could arrange to pick up my purchase and bring it back with me.


----------



## Voltron

EDIT: Justin has responded to this directly, so no further need for this response.


----------



## ktm

Ok, I've learned something today. I've been thinking about the Gilmore all triode 
 amp for a while now. Parts look easy to get(unlike some other designs)
 and I can handle point to point wiring just fine. But I now figured out why
 no one talks about it much. The Woo GES is a new design of the classic 
 all tube unit. I am at a loss to explain all the extra transformers, but it
 must be an improvement over the old design??? Comments?
 I believe when Kevin Gilmore said he doesn't listen to his tube amp anymore,
 he most likely was talking about the KGSS Vs. All triode, rather than the 
 BH hybrid. I know the KGSS and BH are better sounding, but the bang for the
 buck appeal of the all triode amp looks pretty good.
 I have a pair of 404's still in the box waiting for the proper amp. 
 The prices some of the used amps, or even the srd-7sbmkII
 have been waaay over the top in price to buy right now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I've learned something today. I've been thinking about the Gilmore all triode 
 amp for a while now. Parts look easy to get(unlike some other designs)
 and I can handle point to point wiring just fine. But I now figured out why
 no one talks about it much. The Woo GES is a new design of the classic 
 all tube unit. I am at a loss to explain all the extra transformers, but it
 must be an improvement over the old design??? Comments?
 I believe when Kevin Gilmore said he doesn't listen to his tube amp anymore,
 he most likely was talking about the KGSS Vs. All triode, rather than the 
 BH hybrid. I know the KGSS and BH are better sounding, but the bang for the
 buck appeal of the all triode amp looks pretty good.
 I have a pair of 404's still in the box waiting for the proper amp. 
 The prices some of the used amps, or even the srd-7sbmkII
 have been waaay over the top in price to buy right now._

 

I once compared an internal pic of the GES to the schematic and they are very similar though it's tough to tell as it isn't easy to see all values from a pic. The power supply needed some work so I guess they added a couple of chokes and put in larger caps. They might also be filament transformers so somebody with a GES, open up those covers and take some pics.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could use a little advice here, please.

 I will get my HE60 back this week, and will get to try them with my SRD-7 Pro and a Nuforce Icon 12 watt per channel speaker amp that has gotten high praise on 6moons (I will try this with my Lambda Sigs and SR-003 soon, but I have been ill and without the energy to mess with it lately).

 Larry_

 

How do you plan on connecting you Icon to your SRD-7 Pro? Mine has banana plugs on the end and so does the Icon speaker cables.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I've learned something today. I've been thinking about the Gilmore all triode 
 amp for a while now. Parts look easy to get(unlike some other designs)
 and I can handle point to point wiring just fine. But I now figured out why
 no one talks about it much. The Woo GES is a new design of the classic 
 all tube unit. I am at a loss to explain all the extra transformers, but it
 must be an improvement over the old design??? Comments?
 I believe when Kevin Gilmore said he doesn't listen to his tube amp anymore,
 he most likely was talking about the KGSS Vs. All triode, rather than the 
 BH hybrid. I know the KGSS and BH are better sounding, but the bang for the
 buck appeal of the all triode amp looks pretty good.
 I have a pair of 404's still in the box waiting for the proper amp. 
 The prices some of the used amps, or even the *srd-7sbmkII*
 have been waaay over the top in price to buy right now._

 

*cough* not yet it isn't *cough*

 Which all triode design, this one? Stax DC Tube Driver

 I'm getting someone to build it, but my builder is experiencing some problems with it.


----------



## justin w.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn’t it common courtesy to reply to emails and correspondence? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Especially if you are operating as a business, I appreciate his problems, even an acknowledgement would suffice.
 My trail of contact goes back before last Christmas, so its not that I’ve just asked to order something in the last few weeks . I was planning to organise a holiday in America so that I could arrange to pick up my purchase and bring it back with me._

 

I am going to be making more KGBH SE and have been getting more parts. I wanted to make sure that would be possible before offering any more for sale. I'll post a list of reservations on headamp.com soon like I've done for the Pico. Please send me another email and let me know that you're complin on Head-Fi


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*cough* not yet it isn't *cough*

 Which all triode design, this one? Stax DC Tube Driver

 I'm getting someone to build it, but my builder is experiencing some problems with it._

 

HeadWize - Project: All-Triode Direct-Drive Amps for Electrostatic and Electret Headphones by Kevin Gilmore
 It's just about a dead ringer for the Woo.
 The Older one Woo used has a known track record. The one you linked seems
 to be a bigger mystery than the old design. Ever find the power supply schematic?


----------



## SACD-Man

Boy that is pretty!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you plan on connecting you Icon to your SRD-7 Pro? Mine has banana plugs on the end and so does the Icon speaker cables._

 

I've got these little gold plated adapters from Radio Shack, which will let me connect the banana plugs on my Nuforce cable and SRD-7 Pro together. They are branded with the Radio Shack name on them.

 I can plug in the banana plugs from the amp cables into the adapter's female jack, and then I can feed the banana plugs from the SRD-7 Pro into a hole and then turn a screw down onto the plugs to hold them tight. Not only that, but they still leave me with a male banana plug in case I need to plug into a second item that has jacks.


----------



## SACD-Man

On a different note...

 I'm about to pick up the SRM-007tII, and i was wondering what tubes are the best replacements. 

 I have heard of a few opinions, but what better way to get the real skinny!!!


----------



## rsbrsvp

There is much talk on head-fi about headphone amplifiers and headphones which seems appropriate concidering those are the unique components that make up headphone listening as opposed to speaker listening. I wanted to however start some discussion on how much effect on bottom line sound the source has relitive to the headphones and the amplifier.

 For example- if one were to put together what was concidered a good amp.- like a Woo Audio or Mcalester with all the best options and put a killer source behind it- like a world class vinal source or an EMM labs 2 piece and we would compare it to an ES-1 or BHSE with the best tubes but placed a mediocre to good source behind it- but not a killer source- maybe like a Meridian G08 - how would the final sonics play out? Which would deliver a more compelling musical presentation?

 I know nothing about electronics and how these things work- but I would guess that since the source is the starting place for the sound and the amplifier is just bringing forth its qualities and "amplifing" them that a killer source with a mor moderate amp. would be superior to a moderate source with a killer amp. I guess it's probobly not so simple however.

 I would appreciate some more experienced head fiers to present some opinions on this matter and maybe explain in more detail how the source and amp. work together.

 Thanks.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Ivor Tiefenbrun has been expousing this notion for about 30 years: I think the idea of 'source first' has now generally been accepted by all. (But stand back and watch what others round these parts may opine.)


----------



## 2deadeyes

Definitely source first. Like what everyone states - garbage in, garbage out. The difference between my EMM DCC2SE and SD Transporter is truly night and day.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is much talk on head-fi about headphone amplifiers and headphones which seems appropriate concidering those are the unique components that make up headphone listening as opposed to speaker listening. I wanted to however start some discussion on how much effect on bottom line sound the source has relitive to the headphones and the amplifier.

 For example- if one were to put together what was concidered a good amp.- like a Woo Audio or Mcalester with all the best options and put a killer source behind it- like a world class vinal source or an EMM labs 2 piece and we would compare it to an ES-1 or BHSE with the best tubes but placed a mediocre to good source behind it- but not a killer source- maybe like a Meridian G08 - how would the final sonics play out? Which would deliver a more compelling musical presentation?

 I know nothing about electronics and how these things work- but I would guess that since the source is the starting place for the sound and the amplifier is just bringing forth its qualities and "amplifing" them that a killer source with a mor moderate amp. would be superior to a moderate source with a killer amp. I guess it's probobly not so simple however.

 I would appreciate some more experienced head fiers to present some opinions on this matter and maybe explain in more detail how the source and amp. work together.

 Thanks._

 

You should always think about this in the context of a system so a great amp is wasted on a crap source and the same goes for any other component in the chain. You simply can't amplify something that wasn't there to begin with. 

 When it comes to sources, newer is far from better and going by price will only lead to disaster as some of the vintage gear is simply stunning. Something like the Meridian G08 is simply bad even in comparison to 20 year old gear so used TOTL model is often a very good buy if they are known to be reliable.


----------



## webbie64

I too concur with Ivor and GIGO. But to address the question overall, GIGO applies all the way down the chain. So running something that is, say, reproducing 95% of what is on the recording through an amp that produces 99% of what it gets will get you something just below 95%. Similarly, feeding something that's reproducing 99% of what's on the recording and then running it through an amp that only reproduces 95% of what it gets will get you something that's roughly just below 95%.

 But it's far more complex than that and the varying signal loss factors in all of the equipment used in the chain will produce different losses that, in combination might sound a good bit different to each other.

 In many respects what the question is raising is the importance of synergy between equipment.

 And the other aspect to raise I think is that the variance between SQ quality at the very front end of the chain can be far greater than the variance further down the chain.

 So, yes, source first.


----------



## Duggeh

In my case I've gone amp first rather than source first, but that because my main headphones require some rather meaty amplification and a great source running into a T-amp to the AMT or a 212 to the O2 would leave me worse off than what I have.


----------



## Faust2D

I could never understand the source first mantra. I look a this from this standpoint: the difference between so-so CDP and TOTL CDP is fairly small and after a certain price point is negligible, the differences between the headphones and amps are HUGE even at the top of the heap amps and headphones have utterly different presentation and sound signatures. So in my mind you should look for the best amp and headphone combo and try to find a source that works well with this combo. YMMV however.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Wow- great responses so far. I agree in my experience with most of the comments so far that source is first- but I don't think that amp. is a far second. I definately think headphones are last by a pretty good margin- but obviously not totally unimportant- especially with electrostats. For example- lets take a fully blow EMM labs source and BHSE or ES-1 configured any way you want with the best tubes and hook them up to $300 brand new SR-303 from Japan. Lets compare that to a $300-$500 Stax amp. or a $500-$600 Mcalister amp. with a Jolida or Eastern Electric source and your choice of HE90 or Omega 2 headphones. I believe there is no question that the first set up will be light years better than the second and not to far away from the same set up with your choice of HE90 or 02 headphones. I would appreciate others comments on this. But if it is true it has to get us thinking about our priorities. The headphones are the LAST place to spend the monies. The electronics behind them is much much more important.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The headphones are the LAST place to spend the monies. The electronics behind them is much much more important._

 

I am completely flabbergasted by this and totally disagree with this point of view. What makes or breaks the sound are headphones or speakers for that matter. The inaccuracies and variations are mainly in the last chain of reproduction not the first. Put any kind of source and amp behind bad headphones and let me know what you think.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...The headphones are the LAST place to spend the monies. The electronics behind them is much much more important._

 

I can't agree with this statement. It's true that the source & amp are important but the ability of a headphone to render accurately what it's fed is equally as important.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't agree with this statement. It's true that the source & amp are important but the ability of a headphone to render accurately what it's fed is equally as important._

 

Bottom line, there's always a weak link. That's what causes those
 expensive rounds of upgrades! A SOLID source is important, as well as a SOLID amp/headphone 
 combo. If one of these items sucks, so will the sound.
 There will be a point all your stuff is pretty good, and gains will become harder and harder to attain.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bottom line, there's always a weak link. That's what causes those
 expensive rounds of upgrades! A SOLID source is important, as well as a SOLID amp/headphone 
 combo. If one of these items sucks, so will the sound.
 There will be a point all your stuff is pretty good, and gains will become harder and harder to attain._

 

It's very true, but if you compare FR charts for what we consider good CDPs and good headphones you will see there is a much large variance in the headphones FR response, than any two CDPs. It's very objective and you will hear the difference more easily then any difference between good CDPs.

 P.S. Yes I know FR charts are not a clear representation of a good product, but it is still a good indicator of issues.


----------



## slwiser

All components need to be at a relative equal level or any single component will cloud the whole. The worst component will always be limiting. It is the search for that limiting component that fuels upgrades.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's very true, but if you compare FR charts for what we consider good CDPs and good headphones you will see there is a much large variance in the headphones FR response, than any two CDPs. It's very objective and you will hear the difference more easily then any difference between good CDPs._

 

I agree. The "weak link" idea is meaningless until you've got a reasonably strong chain in place. No point in fixing a weak link that isn't yet linking anything substantial. Passably decent electronics (even cheap ones) and a good pair of headphones is the prerequisite before you can even start thinking about weak links. In other terms, you have to have a rig in place before you can start asking your ear how you want to tweak and improve it.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could never understand the source first mantra. I look a this from this standpoint: the difference between so-so CDP and TOTL CDP is fairly small and after a certain price point is negligible, the differences between the headphones and amps are HUGE even at the top of the heap amps and headphones have utterly different presentation and sound signatures. So in my mind you should look for the best amp and headphone combo and try to find a source that works well with this combo. YMMV however. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I definately agreee that often spending big bucks on supposedly better sources OFTEN brings very little gains. For example- I have spent some time with aMeridian 508 (worth about 1.2K on the used market) and was stunned by its incredible dynamics and analogue flavor. The EMM Labs 2 piece at about 10-12 times the price in the used market to my ears- using headphones only is better but hardly better- an embarrassment in my opinion. There are sources out there however - for much less money that cost more than a Meridian 508 and on my system to my ears really provide serious gains. In my case I ended up getting an Eastsound E5 with Reference Audio Mods "unlimited" mod. package and it cost new quite a bit less than the EMM 2 piece used and to my ears in my system- crushes it-a real preformer and the real key to its high end analogue sound is it is off the mains and on battery power. So I guess we have to discern between spending more money and getting better equipment.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am completely flabbergasted by this and totally disagree with this point of view. What makes or breaks the sound are headphones or speakers for that matter. The inaccuracies and variations are mainly in the last chain of reproduction not the first. Put any kind of source and amp behind bad headphones and let me know what you think._

 

Please let me temper my viewpiont. Of course the headphones are important in the final sonics. Everything in that chain fromn beginning to end is going to give sonic results. I just think that in balancing it all out in a general sense- the order of importance is source- amp- headphones. Balancing all three of these to produce the sound we like based on our finances and our goals is very important as they are synergestic and all important. I do think however that basically all the stax and Senheisser and even HE and Koss electrostats are good preformers with good potential if they are driven by the best electronics. Poor electronics driving the best headphones in my opinion will yield poorer results.


----------



## pdennis

I have an interesting observation to make regarding the power supply for the SRM-212 amplifier I recently received. I have the original Stax wall wart and a transformer. Using my old analogue multimeter (EDIT: just calibrated multimeter on a 1.5v battery, works fine) on the DC plug from the wall wart, it tests 18vdc from 100vac (from the transformer) and 21vdc from 120vac (from the wall).

 !!!!!!!!!!

 This is somewhat at odds with the power supply's 12vdc label. Can anyone else test their Stax power supply, Model No. 1240, and see what kind of voltage it's putting out?

 Now, as it happens, I just finished putting together a beefier power supply (an Acopian industrial supply) for the 212 with adjustable voltage, so I compared the two. With the Acopian supply at 13v, the sound was much poorer than with the Stax -- bass and impact reduced. With the Acopian at 15v, bass and impact were back, and it sounded at least as good as the Stax supply (I listened only very briefly, didn't want to take too much risk).

 This also brings to mind the one report I saw in this thread from someone who bought a bench supply to use with their 212 or 252, I don't remember which. They complained that the bench supply sounded much worse than stock. I wonder if their Stax PS is pumping out a bunch of extra juice.

 EDIT:

 I wonder if it would drop all the way to 12v when powering the amp. Is that likely, given that it's putting out 18 with no load? If so, then I'm not sure what to think about the discrepancy in sound between the supplies.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All components need to be at a relative equal level or any single component will cloud the whole. The worst component will always be limiting. It is the search for that limiting component that fuels upgrades._

 

Could not have said it any better myself. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The total system don't perform above what the weakest link are able to provide.


----------



## smeggy

Back in the 80s the source first mantra was carried to ridiculous extremes and old Ivor was in good part to blame. While the Garbage in, garbage out thinking is essentially sound it becomes nullified when you end up with great in, garbage out because you had $150 speakers tacked on the end of a $5000 system which is where that thinking led many easily influenced people in the day.

 There is absolutely no point in feeding a great signal to a device that is incapable of using that signal to good effect. Thankfully a more balance approach to the division of funds prevailed. 

 Look at it another way. You have a Digital, widescreen HDTV signal and you view it on a 14" 4/3 aspect ratio balck and white TV. That's the video equivalent to 80s source first thinking. No matter how good the signal was you still ended up with crap at the other end. It was a bad time in audio.


----------



## aaron313

Assuming all your headphones are decent, source first. I am currently listening to the HD650 out of a stereo receiver with my PS Audio DLIII. Compared to my Desktop Balanced (which I just returned), the sound is noticeably duller and slower, but if I were to remove the DAC, the sound would be flat out unstable and completely unrefined.

 Now, on to why I sold my amp. I bought into the extended run of KGBH SE. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Next up I need to save up for the O2.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Back in the 80s the source first mantra was carried to ridiculous extremes and old Ivor was in good part to blame. While the Garbage in, garbage out thinking is essentially sound it becomes nullified when you end up with great in, garbage out because you had $150 speakers tacked on the end of a $5000 system which is where that thinking led many easily influenced people in the day.

 There is absolutely no point in feeding a great signal to a device that is incapable of using that signal to good effect. Thankfully a more balance approach to the division of funds prevailed. 

 Look at it another way. You have a Digital, widescreen HDTV signal and you view it on a 14" 4/3 aspect ratio balck and white TV. That's the video equivalent to 80s source first thinking. No matter how good the signal was you still ended up with crap at the other end. It was a bad time in audio._

 

So in other words, spend a relatively equal amount on each of the links in your component "chain."


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So in other words, spend a relatively equal amount on each of the links in your component "chain."_

 

It's not about a strict division of funds, more a case of not having any one component be the weak link. All pieces should be of equal quality. In the headphone world this is somewhat odd as we have some really cheap world class headphones which deserve lots of cash devoted to feeding them so we get back to weak link rather than cost ratios. It's all about a balanced setup, and you can't do a straight division of funds that way.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not about a strict division of funds, more a case of not having any one component be the weak link. All pieces should be of equal quality. In the headphone world this is somewhat odd as we have some really cheap world class headphones which deserve lots of cash devoted to feeding them so we get back to weak link rather than cost ratios. It's all about a balanced setup, and you can't do a straight division of funds that way._

 

That's what I meant, a rig with each component being of the same relative quality.


----------



## smeggy

Yup, whether it's at the front or back. A setup is only as good as the crappiest part.... Just say NO to crap!


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 I have an interesting observation to make regarding the power supply for the SRM-212 amplifier I recently received. I have the original Stax wall wart and a transformer. Using my old analogue multimeter (EDIT: just calibrated multimeter on a 1.5v battery, works fine) on the DC plug from the wall wart, it tests 18vdc from 100vac (from the transformer) and 21vdc from 120vac (from the wall).

 !!!!!!!!!!

 This is somewhat at odds with the power supply's 12vdc label. Can anyone else test their Stax power supply, Model No. 1240, and see what kind of voltage it's putting out? 
 

My Stax power supply measured also around 20v (its a 220v model) It will probably drop voltage under load.
 I tried several different alternative power supplies and decided that in my case a 1200mAh switching power supply was sounding the best (about the same as running it from a motorcycle battery)


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree in my experience with most of the comments so far that source is first- but I don't think that amp. is a far second. I definately think headphones are last by a pretty good margin- but obviously not totally unimportant- especially with electrostats._

 

The transducer (speaker or headphone) is a conversion product. It converts a electrical signal to mechanical energy. There is a LOT of error in the conversion process. The objective and subjective differences are huge. I believe when putting together a system you first find a transducer that works for you. I would demo the transducer with the very best amp and source (not taking into consideration of price) that I could find making sure that the system components have good synergy. After I found the transducer that is to my liking I would look for the best amp in my price range to drive the transducer. Now I would start looking for a good source. In a fully analog system the phono cartridge and speakers made the biggest difference in a system (by far). It has been understood in the “High End” community for years that a system is built around the transducers. It’s interesting that in the recording process the microphone (a transducer) gets the most attention by the engineers.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The transducer (speaker or headphone) is a conversion product. It converts a electrical signal to mechanical energy. There is a LOT of error in the conversion process. The objective and subjective differences are huge. I believe when putting together a system you first find a transducer that works for you. I would demo the transducer with the very best amp and source (not taking into consideration of price) that I could find making sure that the system components have good synergy. After I found the transducer that is to my liking I would look for the best amp in my price range to drive the transducer. Now I would start looking for a good source. In a fully analog system the phono cartridge and speakers made the biggest difference in a system (by far). It has been understood in the “High End” community for years that a system is built around the transducers. It’s interesting that in the recording process the microphone gets the most attention by the engineers._

 

I completely agree with the above


----------



## smeggy

Anyway, back to something interesting.... There's a Micro Seiki MX-5 that looks like NOS on the 'bay. It's hard to believe there's still one of these alive and kicking after all these years. The seller wants way too much cash for it though. I thought it was shrill and ear piercing when I had mine all those years ago.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, back to something interesting.... There's a Micro Seiki MX-5 that looks like NOS on the 'bay. It's hard to believe there's still one of these alive and kicking after all these years. The seller wants way too much cash for it though. I thought it was shrill and ear piercing when I had mine all those years ago._

 

They are electret so a different diaphragm then the MS-1.


----------



## ericj

Just got off the phone with Allied Electronics. They say that the WPI socket that works for stax amps - WPI's part number 78-S6S - will be back in stock eventually. October 17th to be precise. 

 He recommended a couple other distributors but they might have a rather huge minimum order, and at best one might be able to talk them into sending samples. 

 electronic connector corp - 800-742-3262

 component enterprises - 610-272-7900

 Edit: ECCO has a $50 minimum order. at $3.28/ea, that's 16 of 'em.


----------



## rsbrsvp

I have a Stax Jack and a HE90 Jack on my amp. I have no use for the HE90 Jack. Is there a HE90 to Stax adaptor I can purchase or a Stax Splitter that will give me 2 Stax Jacks from the one on my Amp.?

 I would appreciate directions to who may have a product that fits this description for sale.

 Thanksss


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Stax Jack and a HE90 Jack on my amp. I have no use for the HE90 Jack. Is there a HE90 to Stax adaptor I can purchase or a Stax Splitter that will give me 2 Stax Jacks from the one on my Amp.?

 I would appreciate directions to who may have a product that fits this description for sale.

 Thanksss_

 

The correct action to take is to find an HE90 to fill that jack.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The correct action to take is to find an HE90 to fill that jack._

 

Fuh sho!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Stax Jack and a HE90 Jack on my amp. I have no use for the HE90 Jack. Is there a HE90 to Stax adaptor I can purchase or a Stax Splitter that will give me 2 Stax Jacks from the one on my Amp.?

 I would appreciate directions to who may have a product that fits this description for sale.

 Thanksss_

 

The bias on a HE90 jack will not be the same as a Stax jack (I share your situation with my Woo GES). So the HE90 to Stax adaptor is not a wise option: better to see if the outlet can be changed, with an appropriate adjustment to the bias, to a Stax Pro outlet.

 I would anticipate a splitter would, at best, considerably compromise SQ and may even be risky - not sure on that but I'd certainly check with someone more expert than me - spritzer? - for a clearer response before risking my electrostatic headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In terms of a provider of such a product I have always found Apuresound to be open to creating high quality unique products like this (e.g. [AK]Zip's Stax Pro to SR-001 adapter).

 Best wishes in finding a solution to your challenge.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Stax Jack and a HE90 Jack on my amp. I have no use for the HE90 Jack. Is there a HE90 to Stax adaptor I can purchase ........_

 

It doesn't make much sense since your HE90 jack does most probably provide the proper bias voltage for the HE90, and that differs substantially from the Stax bias voltage.It would work and the lower bias voltage wouldn't damage Stax headphones, but they would probably underperform under these circumstances.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It doesn't make much sense since your HE90 jack does most probably provide the proper bias voltage for the HE90, and that differs substantially from the Stax bias voltage.It would work and the lower bias voltage wouldn't damage Stax headphones, but they would probably underperform under these circumstances._

 


 He is correct. HE 90's sound better with their dedicated jack, or at least so on my Aristeaus. I have the adapter as well, the HE 90's sound fine on my Stax amps with the adapter, but really do sound better on the Aristeaus.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got off the phone with Allied Electronics. They say that the WPI socket that works for stax amps - WPI's part number 78-S6S - will be back in stock eventually. October 17th to be precise. 

 He recommended a couple other distributors but they might have a rather huge minimum order, and at best one might be able to talk them into sending samples. 

 electronic connector corp - 800-742-3262

 component enterprises - 610-272-7900

 Edit: ECCO has a $50 minimum order. at $3.28/ea, that's 16 of 'em._

 

Thats very good news.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It doesn't make much sense since your HE90 jack does most probably provide the proper bias voltage for the HE90, and that differs substantially from the Stax bias voltage.It would work and the lower bias voltage wouldn't damage Stax headphones, but they would probably underperform under these circumstances._

 


 Interesting. Makes sense. I have noticed many posts of people who have used the new HE headphones on Stax Jacks. The HE company even provides a Stax adaptor yet their headphones require 600V while the Stax Jack gives only 580V. Everyone seems to think it sounds great nevertheless. I guess 20 volts difference out of 600 total volts is a small percentage versus the much bigger loss of power from a HE90 Jack to a Stax phone. I wonder if a stax jack can be biased at 600V to optimize the HE?


----------



## mypasswordis

The HE90 runs at 500v, the HE60 runs at 540v. 

 Edit: Whoops, you meant the new HE company that is making electrostats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bias on a HE90 jack will not be the same as a Stax jack (I share your situation with my Woo GES). So the HE90 to Stax adaptor is not a wise option: better to see if the outlet can be changed, with an appropriate adjustment to the bias, to a Stax Pro outlet.

 I would anticipate a splitter would, at best, considerably compromise SQ and may even be risky - not sure on that but I'd certainly check with someone more expert than me - spritzer? - for a clearer response before risking my electrostatic headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 In terms of a provider of such a product I have always found Apuresound to be open to creating high quality unique products like this (e.g. [AK]Zip's Stax Pro to SR-001 adapter).

 Best wishes in finding a solution to your challenge. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's certainly possible to build a splitter as that's what's done inside each and every Stax amp as there is only one set of wires for the (up to) 3 sockets. Stax also made an adapter for this, called the B3, which is an aluminum circle with 3 female sockets and one male plug. Plug an extension cable into the amp and to the male pule and you have a splitter for 3 phones. I have one here somewhere but they are rather rare these days.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Makes sense. I have noticed many posts of people who have used the new HE headphones on Stax Jacks. The HE company even provides a Stax adaptor yet their headphones require 600V while the Stax Jack gives only 580V. Everyone seems to think it sounds great nevertheless. I guess 20 volts difference out of 600 total volts is a small percentage versus the much bigger loss of power from a HE90 Jack to a Stax phone. I wonder if a stax jack can be biased at 600V to optimize the HE?_

 

Over in the HE thread, derekbmn, has just reported that

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking forward to spending time with the loaner Woo GES that is on it's way to me and report my findings. In an Email with Jack he mentioned that the HeAudio jack could be added to the GES for $100 bucks._

 

 - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/hea...7/#post4301069

 So better to just get a genuine HE jack biaised for 600v and still have a seperate genuine 580v Stax jack.

 And thanks, spritzer, for reminding us of the old Stax splitter - I had totally forgotten about it till you described it again.

 Your description of the (similar) internal splitting within Stax amps combined with my experiences with my SRM-T1 therefore leads me to the conclusion that although there is some minor loss of SQ when running multiple phones the major issue when running a splitter will be more finding multiple phones with similar efficiency - the volume level required for an O2 through the splitter would not be appreciated by a Stax terminated HE60 on the other end of that splitter


----------



## mypasswordis

I just received an SR-Lambda from spritzer. Now I have a proper headband. Things that changed are the soundstage is much more coherent (go figure), and there is actually a sense of "front" which I just don't get with pretty much all my other headphones. Angled drivers are nice. The sound is slightly more closed in than before, however, and bass amount has decreased. Weird.


----------



## slwiser

I have had a Stax setup for about two months now with my best being the SR-Gamma Pro that I purchased from spritzer. I also have purchase a SRD-7 Pro and a SRX-1 Mk2 Pro. I use the SRX right now with my Gamma. I have to say that this is the best sound for the least money that I have spend in this hobby. That is the combo of the Gamma and SRX together.

 To say that I have been shocked by the sound that I get is an understatement.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had a Stax setup for about two months now with my best being the SR-Gamma Pro that I purchased from spritzer. I also have purchase a SRD-7 Pro and a SRX-1 Mk2 Pro. I use the SRX right now with my Gamma. I have to say that this is the best sound for the least money that I have spend in this hobby. That is the combo of the Gamma and SRX together.

 To say that I have been shocked by the sound that I get is an understatement._

 

I'm pretty sure I sold you an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, not an SRX 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I too am stunned by the sound I get from my remaining SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my SR-003, in that it just about demolishes most of my dynamic headphones, and gives the best ones a run for their money.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure I sold you an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, not an SRX 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I too am stunned by the sound I get from my remaining SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my SR-003, in that it just about demolishes most of my dynamic headphones, and gives the best ones a run for their money._

 

I just got my SRM1/MK-2, and I like it. But it definitely is a bit on the bright side when fed by the DAC1. The Lambda Pros have a real bite to them (as well as some predictable etch). The Signatures, on the other hand, sound amazing.


----------



## mypasswordis

That's strange; I have read before that the Lambda Pro has one of the least amounts of bite and the Lambda Sig has etch.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my SRM1/MK-2, and I like it. But it definitely is a bit on the bright side when fed by the DAC1. The Lambda Pros have a real bite to them (as well as some predictable etch). The Signatures, on the other hand, sound amazing._

 

It sounds pretty good via Apogee mini-DAC, and the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature are pretty good with it, without bite. But there is some kinda crazy positive synergy with my SR-003.

 I felt the HE60 were a bit light on the bass with the SRM-1, but I get the HE60 back tomorrow with new drivers and now have a PSU for the HEV70; so I'll be able to compare them, along with my SRD-7 Pro and new NuForce Icon (HE60 are stax re-terminated by Rudistor, and I have stax pigtail adapter for the HEV70).


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure I sold you an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, not an SRX 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I too am stunned by the sound I get from my remaining SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my SR-003, in that it just about demolishes most of my dynamic headphones, and gives the best ones a run for their money._

 

You are right.. of course..I still am new at the Stax and get confused by all the similar notations.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's strange; I have read before that the Lambda Pro has one of the least amounts of bite and the Lambda Sig has etch._

 

It is possible that the RCA jack out of which I was listening initially is bad (now only down to one channel). So the etch may actually have been the jack crapping out. I'll do some more listening out of the second input and report back. I'm also going to replace and rewire the RCA jacks.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's certainly possible to build a splitter as that's what's done inside each and every Stax amp as there is only one set of wires for the (up to) 3 sockets. Stax also made an adapter for this, called the B3, which is an aluminum circle with 3 female sockets and one male plug. Plug an extension cable into the amp and to the male pule and you have a splitter for 3 phones. I have one here somewhere but they are rather rare these days._

 



 Do you think it would be possible to build an adaptor for a stax jack that would transfer the voltage frrom 580V to 600v for the HE audio headphones so I don't have to send in my amp for a big expensive job addinmg a 5 pin xlr 600V jack?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you think it would be possible to build an adaptor for a stax jack that would transfer the voltage frrom 580V to 600v for the HE audio headphones so I don't have to send in my amp for a big expensive job addinmg a 5 pin xlr 600V jack?_

 

There is no way to boost the bias at the plug. The signal voltages can be taken from the amp and a new external supply produces the bias with ease, all you need is a special cable that nobody I know of currently makes.


----------



## randerson3024

For all interested, so far the new SR-007 MK2's are a pleasant surprise. They lack the deep bass and spatial presentation only acheived in a 'colored' sense by the HE 90's, and a 'neutral' sense through the original Omegas, however, they are open, clean, can be driven properly by a Stax amp (SRM-727 until my BHSE arrives), and much more comfortable than the SR-007's. I know my addition of the Esoteric clock simultaneously has helped, but I really have high hopes for these headphones.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It sounds pretty good via Apogee mini-DAC, and the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature are pretty good with it, without bite. But there is some kinda crazy positive synergy with my SR-003.

 I felt the HE60 were a bit light on the bass with the SRM-1, but I get the HE60 back tomorrow with new drivers and now have a PSU for the HEV70; so I'll be able to compare them, along with my SRD-7 Pro and new NuForce Icon (HE60 are stax re-terminated by Rudistor, and I have stax pigtail adapter for the HEV70)._

 

Well,

 I have about 3 hours total today on my HE60 with new drivers and new ear-pads/headband pad. They are Stax terminated with an adapter for using with the HEV70. I have tried them with three different amplification methods - with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, with HEV70, and with SRD-7 driven by NuForce Icon 12 watt amp.

SRM-1 setup: I am using a Marantz CD5001 coax out > Synergistic Research digital interconnect > Apogee Mini-DAC > Neutrik XLR IC > Jensens Transformers RCA converter > Anti-Cables ICs > SRM-1 Mk2 Pro > HE60. (is the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro internally balanced?)

SRD-7 Pro setup: I also have Marantz CD5001 coax out > Synergistic Research digital interconnect > Apogee mini-DAC 1/8" line-out > Jenna cryo mini-mini with Canare F12 plugs > NuForce Icon 1/8" line-in > speaker out to SRD-7 Pro > HE60.

HEV70 setup: Finally I have Marantz CD5001 coax out > Synergistic Research digital interconnect > Apogee mini-DAC 1/8" line out > Jenna cryo mini-mini with Canare F12 plugs > NuForce Icon 1/8" line-in > 1/8" line out with Zynsonix mini-RCA by highflyin9 > HEV70 > HE60.

 I am very surprised at how good the HEV70 sounds, after reading everywhere that the HEV70 is nothing but a "glorified cmoy for stats." It actually sounds pretty good. This is my first chance to use it because the 230v adapter I had was defective (with a 110>230v transformer x2), and I had to order a new 110-120v unit. The HE60 have a little more bass and mids volume with the HEV70 than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, but the SRM-1 has the best highs and also a little more natural mids with the HE60 (a little more transparent). I also tried the HEV70 right out of the Marantz RCA jacks with blue jeans cables IC that I bought from mrarroyo, and is is still pretty good that way too.

 But, the SRD-7 Pro with NuForce Icon speaker amp driving* the HE60 is simply mesmerizing.* I can't stop listening right now. *I just have to say Wow, stick a fork in me I am done!* I can't even imagine what this would sound like with something better than a $199 SS amp, even if 6moons did drool all over the Icon in their review with it driving speakers. 

 Interestingly, while the HE60 sound best through the setup above, the SR-003 don't sound as good as they do through the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The NuForce with SRD-7 Pro is my second choice for SR-003 because it seems to make the SR-003 mids more forward with the SR-003, although the HEV70 boosts the mids on the SR-003 the most. The SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is just a little thin sounding with the HE60, and the improved mids and bass of the NuForce Icon fills that in, without losing any of the highs or detail or transparency. However, that same SRM-1 Mk2 Pro seems to provide some very deep bass extension with the SR-003 that I just absolutely love, without pushing the mids harder like the SRD-7/NuForce.

 Next, I'll try the Lambda Sigs with the HEV70. I already like the Sigs with both the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and SRD-7 Pro with Travagans Red. The Red had to be temporarily removed to make room for the HEV70 and NuForce, and the Red with AD743 opamps and SRD-7 Pro is also fantastic with the SR-003 and Lambda Sigs.

*slswiser* - you really need to hook up that NuForce Icon you bought and try your SRD-7 Pro with the Gamma Pros.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For all interested, so far the new SR-007 MK2's are a pleasant surprise. They lack the deep bass and spatial presentation only acheived in a 'colored' sense by the HE 90's, and a 'neutral' sense through the original Omegas, however, they are open, clean, can be driven properly by a Stax amp (SRM-727 until my BHSE arrives), and much more comfortable than the SR-007's. I know my addition of the Esoteric clock simultaneously has helped, but I really have high hopes for these headphones._

 

This is sort of what I wanted to hear. If you see my avatar, you will know why. Anyway, I will not be able to resist purchasing both models if I have the money to do so. But the question remains: Mk2 first, or second? I really enjoyed the 007 when I spent a day with it; it is definitely my sound. (And for now let's not even mention that the BHSE has an HE90 connector.)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, to add to the above - the NuForce with SRD-7 Pro has slightly better highs with the SR-003 than does the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The unwanted extra mids in the SRD-7/NuForce may be worth compromising for those highs that go with it.

 I should note the NuForce amp is also burning in with only about 10-15 hours on it so far, and the new HE60 drivers have my 3 hours plus about 30 minutes or less by Sennheiser on them.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*slswiser* - you really need to hook up that NuForce Icon you bought and try your SRD-7 Pro with the Gamma Pros._

 

I have a set of Banana plug couplers coming soon and I will get to hear that setup then. I am adverse to do any chopping on cables at this time.

 Sounds like the Icon with the adapter can do a good job.


----------



## smeggy

Listening to some Mercan Dede 800 on my 003s right now and they sound outstanding with the SRD-7Mk2. The bass is just outrageous in quality, quantity and depth on these little things and they sound very sweet and highly musical. It's hard to imagine these phones putting a step wrong with most music.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For all interested, so far the new SR-007 MK2's are a pleasant surprise. They lack the deep bass and spatial presentation only acheived in a 'colored' sense by the HE 90's, and a 'neutral' sense through the original Omegas, however, they are open, clean, can be driven properly by a Stax amp (SRM-727 until my BHSE arrives), and much more comfortable than the SR-007's. I know my addition of the Esoteric clock simultaneously has helped, but I really have high hopes for these headphones._

 

Glad you like them though the midbass hump and midrange "honk" are making me want to sell my set and the lack of any real bass extension isn't helping either. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I do like the comfort and they are easier to drive (it's the same driver but the different loading characteristics help) but the Mk1 is still superior to these ears. I'll try to find some time today to rip my set apart and plug the ports and see what happens.


----------



## spritzer

A quick update on the SR-007A/Mk2 port issue. I ripped open my set and plugged the port with some Blutack and the bass is now lean with about the same extension as the Mk1 and the midbass hump is gone. The midrange "honk" seems to have gone as well but further testing is needed since it's a mild coloration and only sticks out on some recordings. 

 The reason for the port was to eliminate the fart which has now returned in force. There might be some middle ground here though by using some porous material to fill in the port but experimenting is hard and time consuming. Simply replacing the pads can take 20 minutes though they are easier to work with then the Mk1 pads. The various types of felt might work better here but the shape of the port makes it a challenge.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a set of Banana plug couplers coming soon and I will get to hear that setup then. I am adverse to do any chopping on cables at this time.

 Sounds like the Icon with the adapter can do a good job._

 

One more thing that should work using the Icon is getting a small subwoofer like one the Nuforce may be coming out with. Since the Stax headphones are open the subwoofer could supplement any bass that may be lacking in any of the Stax phones one may power out of the SRD-7 Pro. I have read that they expect to come out with a subwoofer to match their S-1 speakers.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A quick update on the SR-007A/Mk2 port issue. I ripped open my set and plugged the port with some Blutack and the bass is now lean with about the same extension as the Mk1 and the midbass hump is gone. The midrange "honk" seems to have gone as well but further testing is needed since it's a mild coloration and only sticks out on some recordings. 

 The reason for the port was to eliminate the fart which has now returned in force. There might be some middle ground here though by using some porous material to fill in the port but experimenting is hard and time consuming. Simply replacing the pads can take 20 minutes though they are easier to work with then the Mk1 pads. The various types of felt might work better here but the shape of the port makes it a challenge._

 

I guess I must be lucky, but I've never experienced the fart on my SR-007 MK1 (I have experienced the Lambda squeek and fart with the SR-404). The seal on the SR-007 MK1 stays intact unless I deliberately take them off my head.


----------



## catscratch

The SRD-7 Pro/Dared VP-20 combo with the 003 is absolutely outstanding as well. Not too excessively midrangey and not too dark - the Dareds have a bright sound signature if anything - and spectacularly impactful and dynamic. Bass just hits like a hammer, even more so than the O2.

 I'm surprised at how much the 003 can scale. It's not going to beat the O2 any time soon, or a balanced 650, but damn, I think it's better than the 404 overall.

 I also like the SRD-7 Pro/Dared combo for the 003 more than the 313, 007t, or the McAlister, though the latter did show considerable potential. The 007t did have some sort of reverse synergy going on and was dark with congested mids with the 003.


----------



## smeggy

Given the low price of the 003, it's an astonishing little thing. It scales wonderfully as you say and the bass is a thing to behold. I hadn't listened to them for a while because I've been so infatuated with my other creations, but on going back for another listen they really are good.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I must be lucky, but I've never experienced the fart on my SR-007 MK1 (I have experienced the Lambda squeek and fart with the SR-404). The seal on the SR-007 MK1 stays intact unless I deliberately take them off my head._

 

you might not be getting a good seal then... at what angle are you rotating the pads?


----------



## antonyfirst

I'm looking for a speaker amp (if possible cheaper than Dared) to drive the SR-003 with a SRD-7 Pro. Budget would be around 300$ for used, but I can stretch. I need around 20W and a high slew rate, and would be happy to use it with Omega IIs when budget permits (even in a year or so). Any ideas?


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking for a speaker amp (if possible cheaper than Dared) to drive the SR-003 with a SRD-7 Pro. Budget would be around 300$ for used, but I can stretch. I need around 20W and a high slew rate, and would be happy to use it with Omega IIs when budget permits (even in a year or so). Any ideas?_

 

Check out the Nuforce Icon. Nuforce, Inc


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out the Nuforce Icon. Nuforce, Inc_

 

I can't seem to find the specs.
 According to Larry, it makes the mids too forward with the SR-003.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you might not be getting a good seal then... at what angle are you rotating the pads?_

 

The straight part of the "D" facing the back of my ear. The seal is fine. I should have clarified that I only hear the fart when I deliberately break the seal. Like when I'm taking the headphones off. Otherwise I don't hear it if I'm moving around.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One more thing that should work using the Icon is getting a small subwoofer like one the Nuforce may be coming out with. Since the Stax headphones are open the subwoofer could supplement any bass that may be lacking in any of the Stax phones one may power out of the SRD-7 Pro. I have read that they expect to come out with a subwoofer to match their S-1 speakers._

 

I use a Sharper Image 40 watt subwoofer in that capacity all the time, and others have reported using those Auricushion or bass shakers. I am now feeding my HEV70 direct from my Marantz, so the NuForce line-out can be used for the subwoofer. Previously I would hook the Sub to the headphone out of the Travagans Red, since the speaker out still run at the same time with the headphone out feeding the sub (The Nuforce HP jack turns off the speakers, but line out doesn't).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't seem to find the specs.
 According to Larry, it makes the mids too forward with the SR-003._

 

Well, more forward than I prefer with SR-003 (a fault of the SR-003), but the NuForce still does a good job with them, and it is wonderful with HE60 and Lambda Sigs. It is starting to grow on me as it burns in, and the highs are actually more extended than with the SRM-1 Mk2 PRO.

 The Travagans Red (with AD743 opamps added) is another nice 5 watt $190 SS amp that sounds like a $500-1000 headphone amp. It is primarily a headphone amp, and works great with my RS-1 and Edition 9 and everything else, but it also offers banana jacks for speakers and drives stax transformers quite well (even with stock LM4562 opamp). It is fantastic with the SR-003 and everything else, with my SRD-7 Pro and SRD-7SB.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Here are some nice bass shakers:

Search Results Page


----------



## aaron313

Spritzer, what is the difficulty/risk level when plugging the port? I am not at all worried about the fart effect. I just want to know because since your mod worked I will probably go for the Mk2, but do not want to ruin it.


----------



## ok computer

Would you guys recomend the 2050a basic system or the sr-003 with a nicer say, sub 500$ amp?


----------



## ericj

I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D, thought I'd share some of what i learned about using the WPI 'microphone' plug to make DIY stax cables. 

 I've noticed that most DIY stax cables lack any kind of handle or real strain relief. I've solved those issues. 







 It turns out that if you shave off the lip on the WPI plug, you can friction-fit the plug into a 1/2" to 1/4" copper reduction fitting. It fits tightly, and is hard to remove without the highly technical removal tool I developed, which is detailed below. 

 The 1/4" end of the reduction fitting in this case is covered with a 3/8" plug. This is epoxied on - the gap is too huge to solder it. Believe me i tried. Blowtorch and everything. 

 An o-ring provides an accent and something to grab onto that isn't polished copper and fills the gap. 

 An oval is drilled out of the cap to feed the cable through. 

 The outer diameter of the copper fitting is indeed small enough to fit in the recess of some stax amp sockets. 

 If you wanted to go balls-to-the-wall, you could use a 1/2" copper plug and use a dremel or something to carve a slot in the back of the plug for the cable to feed through, which might look slick, but the strain relief would have to come in the form of some silicone adhesive or something injected into the body after assembly - the caps aren't deep enough to fit anything but maybe 1 layer of insulated wire between plug body and the back of the cap. And it would be a pretty short handle. 

 You could get creative with the copper, too. I have a friend who used to work at a bronze foundry, and says it's relatively easy to apply just about any color patina to bare copper. 

 Since the center pin is not needed for pro bias, It's been removed. The hole has been drilled out a little and tapped with threads to accept a standard 6-32 screw. This gives you a nice sturdy disposable handle to thread into the plug in case you ever need to remove it from the handle to rewire the cable. There's only about 3/16" of threads in the plastic, but it seems quite sturdy this way. 

 Sticklers for military-grade sturdiness in this feature could drill the pin opening all the way out to the same diameter as it is on the back of the plug and tap the whole shaft for a #8 screw. But that would be massive overkill. 

 A zip-tie covered with heatshrink provides strain relief. There's about 1/2" of slack inside the body of the plug handle. 

 Soldering the plug is easy if you approach it in a methodical fashion. 

 I stripped about 1 inch of the outer jacket (which is hard to do without also stripping the inner insulation) and then stripped the last 1/4 inch of the insulation. The wire is then twisted, folded in half, and tinned. 

 The idea here is that the lump of wire and solder at the end should be almost too big to fit through the hole at the business end of the pin. This provides a relatively tight gap into which you can get a good solder joint. 

 So, you take the folded-and-tinned end and shove it into the pin until it just barely pokes out the end, arrange this vertically with the business-end pointing straight up, use your needle-applicator to drip some good flux into the barrel of the pin, heat with the iron, and apply solder until the end seals up. This will leave a fair amount of flux residue, but it's nothing you can't clean up with some alcohol. 

 A few comments about the Koss ESP-950 extension cord. Everybody says this is a crappy cord with crappy enamel coated wire in it. 

 The cable F2D sent me is in no way enameled. Anywhere. In any way shape or form. 

 There's an outer jacket in black that covers the (insulated) inner wire, which admittedly is about 28awg or maybe a little smaller considering it has a fiber reinforcement strand. 

 But it's all very reasonable copper, and no worse than I've seen in Stax electret ribbon cables. And there is certainly no enamel.


----------



## pipoplus

Quote:


 Would you guys recomend the 2050a basic system or the sr-003 with a nicer say, sub 500$ amp? 
 

 The SR-003 has its fans... I think the sr-202 (headphones from the 2050a basic) is better and also the headphones will be far more comfortable.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D, thought I'd share some of what i learned about using the WPI 'microphone' plug to make DIY stax cables..._

 

Looks good, and I know F2D will be pleased-- he was kind enough to bring his ESP950 today when he stopped by to return the SR-X I'd let him borrow. Excellent headphones, even with their featherweight energizer. Out of a Stax amp, I imagine they'll sound even more fantastic.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Given the low price of the 003, it's an astonishing little thing. It scales wonderfully as you say and the bass is a thing to behold. I hadn't listened to them for a while because I've been so infatuated with my other creations, but on going back for another listen they really are good._

 

I'm gonna be evil now, but if you like the 003, you really should get the O2. Out of all Stax phones, they probably have the most similarities in sound signature, though of course the O2 is a lot better.


----------



## Fidel

Hi guys, 

 Quick question - would I kill my O2s if I connect it to a SRD-7 Pro from my 300W integrated amp? I want to try this out before getting a dedicated amp for the Stax.


----------



## Fidel

Double post - pls delete


----------



## evil-zen

I'm using a SRD-7mk2 out of a 100W amp for the O2A. You should be fine as long as you don't blast it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, what is the difficulty/risk level when plugging the port? I am not at all worried about the fart effect. I just want to know because since your mod worked I will probably go for the Mk2, but do not want to ruin it._

 

You are working near the drivers so it isn't easy and one slip with a screwdriver will be very expensive. I do think that the mod can be performed without removing the metal plate which holds the earcup to the arc so only the pads have to be removed. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D, thought I'd share some of what i learned about using the WPI 'microphone' plug to make DIY stax cables._

 

Looks great. I use the shell of some old connector and glue it to the back of the WPI and then heatshrink the whole thing. Looks quite good but hopeless against polished copper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few comments about the Koss ESP-950 extension cord. Everybody says this is a crappy cord with crappy enamel coated wire in it. 

 The cable F2D sent me is in no way enameled. Anywhere. In any way shape or form. 

 There's an outer jacket in black that covers the (insulated) inner wire, which admittedly is about 28awg or maybe a little smaller considering it has a fiber reinforcement strand. 

 But it's all very reasonable copper, and no worse than I've seen in Stax electret ribbon cables. And there is certainly no enamel._

 

Very strange indeed. I got a bunch of them years ago from a fellow collector and they all had nasty enamel on the wires but Koss might have changed cables. The ESP10 cables were also enamel coated for the record.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D





_

 

Woohooo 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can't wait to get my greedy little hands on this one


----------



## The Monkey

So I've had the chance to listen to the Lambda Pros and the Sigs using the good input jack. The Pros definitely have more mid-range etch than the Sigs. I still like the Pros, but I LOVE the Sigs. Mesmerizing.




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my SRM1/MK-2, and I like it. But it definitely is a bit on the bright side when fed by the DAC1. The Lambda Pros have a real bite to them (as well as some predictable etch). The Signatures, on the other hand, sound amazing._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's strange; I have read before that the Lambda Pro has one of the least amounts of bite and the Lambda Sig has etch._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is possible that the RCA jack out of which I was listening initially is bad (now only down to one channel). So the etch may actually have been the jack crapping out. I'll do some more listening out of the second input and report back. I'm also going to replace and rewire the RCA jacks._


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* 
_F2D was kind enough to bring his ESP950 today when he stopped by. Excellent headphones, even with their featherweight energizer. Out of a Stax amp, I imagine they'll sound even more fantastic._

 

Glad you finally had a chance to hear them. Ain't they swell?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D, thought I'd share some of what i learned about using the WPI 'microphone' plug to make DIY stax cables. 

 [...]

 But it's all very reasonable copper, and no worse than I've seen in Stax electret ribbon cables. And there is certainly no enamel._

 

Most awesome stuff indeed. Well played sir!


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad you finally had a chance to hear them. Ain't they swell?_

 

From my short test, I'd say it's perhaps the best single all-purpose headphone I've heard yet, probably what I would choose if I could only have one headphone. However, I have a Lambda, PMB500, Superex, and YH-100 around all at once, and I can live with that.


----------



## rsbrsvp

I live in Israel and have an ES-1. Unfortunately the sound is unbalanced. The sound is fuller and weightier on the left side and lighter and hollower on the right side. I already sent it in to Singlepower and they sent it back unrepaied. I was not surprised as I once bought a SDS-XLR from them and they shipped it to me 5 months late with serious issues. I sent it back at my cost (over $800) and in 6 months after countless begging requests it was returned exactly as it was before- absolutely nothing was done that could be seen physically or heard; it sounded completely ill and none of the outer physical changes that were promissed me were done. It was useless for me to persue the matter furthur as I was being ignored completely for close to a year so I ended up selling it at a huge loss.

 The question is what to do now with my ES-1. I love it- I just need to fix this one problem. It really does sound great besides this one issue. There are many competent technitions in Israel. I brought it to one and he said he doesn't know how to open it up because the screws are based on the fractional system versus the metric system used here in Israel and his tool is either to big or to small. Of course Singlepower promissed me a tool to open the screws on the amp. at least 5 times and it never arrived. Unfortunately, after being ignored and lied to no less than 30 times in our relationship, I have decided to part ways with Mikhael- so to speak. 

 Does anyone know what you call the tool which opens the screws on the ES-1? I have a family member comming from the US to Israel soon and he can bring it to me so I can have a technition here look at it. Also I would appreciate any ideas from the technically minded as to what potentially may be the problem so I can tell my Technition to look in these areas.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I live in Israel and have an ES-1. Unfortunately the sound is unbalanced. The sound is fuller and weightier on the left side and lighter and hollower on the right side. I already sent it in to Singlepower and they sent it back unrepaied. I was not surprised as I once bought a SDS-XLR from them and they shipped it to me 5 months late with serious issues. I sent it back at my cost (over $800) and in 6 months after countless begging requests it was returned exactly as it was before- absolutely nothing was done that could be seen physically or heard; it sounded completely ill and none of the outer physical changes that were promissed me were done. It was useless for me to persue the matter furthur as I was being ignored completely for close to a year so I ended up selling it at a huge loss.

 The question is what to do now with my ES-1. I love it- I just need to fix this one problem. It really does sound great besides this one issue. There are many competent technitions in Israel. I brought it to one and he said he doesn't know how to open it up because the screws are based on the fractional system versus the metric system used here in Israel and his tool is either to big or to small. Of course Singlepower promissed me a tool to open the screws on the amp. at least 5 times and it never arrived. Unfortunately, after being ignored and lied to no less than 30 times in our relationship, I have decided to part ways with Mikhael- so to speak. 

 Does anyone know what you call the tool which opens the screws on the ES-1? I have a family member comming from the US to Israel soon and he can bring it to me so I can have a technition here look at it. Also I would appreciate any ideas from the technically minded as to what potentially may be the problem so I can tell my Technition to look in these areas._

 

What measures have you taken to verify that the problem is not in the headphones (or source)?


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What measures have you taken to verify that the problem is not in the headphones (or source)?_

 



 I have three different headphones. All test with same problem tested on two different sets of ears. Also tried different source and tried rca vs. balanced IC. No matter what I do- same results. To be sure, I flipped all three headphones backwards and both listeners heard the same problem reversed.


----------



## John Buchanan

Is the ES1 dual mono? Possibly try switching some of the valves from the left to the right channel and vice versa?? Is it possible that you have a faulty valve?


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an interesting observation to make regarding the power supply for the SRM-212 amplifier I recently received. I have the original Stax wall wart and a transformer. Using my old analogue multimeter (EDIT: just calibrated multimeter on a 1.5v battery, works fine) on the DC plug from the wall wart, it tests 18vdc from 100vac (from the transformer) and 21vdc from 120vac (from the wall).

 !!!!!!!!!!

 This is somewhat at odds with the power supply's 12vdc label. Can anyone else test their Stax power supply, Model No. 1240, and see what kind of voltage it's putting out?

 Now, as it happens, I just finished putting together a beefier power supply (an Acopian industrial supply) for the 212 with adjustable voltage, so I compared the two. With the Acopian supply at 13v, the sound was much poorer than with the Stax -- bass and impact reduced. With the Acopian at 15v, bass and impact were back, and it sounded at least as good as the Stax supply (I listened only very briefly, didn't want to take too much risk).

 This also brings to mind the one report I saw in this thread from someone who bought a bench supply to use with their 212 or 252, I don't remember which. They complained that the bench supply sounded much worse than stock. I wonder if their Stax PS is pumping out a bunch of extra juice.

 EDIT:

 I wonder if it would drop all the way to 12v when powering the amp. Is that likely, given that it's putting out 18 with no load? If so, then I'm not sure what to think about the discrepancy in sound between the supplies._

 

It was me who bought a bench PS for my SRM-212, and it wasn't 'much worse', it was just disappointing that I'd spent £36 on something that was certainly no better, and probably slightly worse than the wall-wart supplied (although, as you have found, cranking up the voltage output slightly, to 13.5V, brings the sound quality up to the standard of the Stax PS).

 The standard Stax wall-wart for the SRM-212 is unregulated, and the voltage drops to 12V under load: try it and see!

 (Apologies if there have been other answers in-between times: I've been away from the thread for a while and haven't had a chance to catch up on all the posts since the one quoted above was posted.)


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the ES1 dual mono? Possibly try switching some of the valves from the left to the right channel and vice versa?? Is it possible that you have a faulty valve?_

 


 I have completely switched (interchanged) the tubes from one channel to the other and tried brand new tubes- same result..


----------



## evil-zen

I've done the O2A blue tak mod, covering the port totally. It seems like the midbass hump is gone and my O2 finally farts! It's rather worrying when one of my Stax doesn't fart.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've done the O2A blue tak mod, covering the port totally. It seems like the midbass hump is gone and my O2 finally farts! It's rather worrying when one of my Stax doesn't fart._

 

Where would we be without the fart?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Please post some more impressions when you've had some time with them.


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've had the chance to listen to the Lambda Pros and the Sigs using the good input jack. The Pros definitely have more mid-range etch than the Sigs. I still like the Pros, but I LOVE the Sigs. Mesmerizing._

 

Thanks for following up. I hope I can audition at least one or the other sometime so I have a better idea of an upgrade path. I'm enjoying my normal bias Lambda in the meantime.


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From my short test, I'd say it's perhaps the best single all-purpose headphone I've heard yet, probably what I would choose if I could only have one headphone. However, I have a Lambda, PMB500, Superex, and YH-100 around all at once, and I can live with that._

 

More than that; it's because you do have all those other worthies surrounding you (not unlike a cloud of witnesses) that your high opinion of the 950 carries some weight. I confess I didn't think you'd like it that much, but there's a bit of what I call _klarheit_ in the 950's sound, and I knew you'd appreciate that.

 And no, I wouldn't want to limit myself to just one headphone either. I know you're surprised to hear me say that.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad you finally had a chance to hear them. Ain't they swell?_

 

I love my 950's.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I drive them with my SRM-007t.


----------



## Tachikoma

Here's a quick mod suggestion for SR-5 owners out there having siblance-related problems with the headphones: Stick some blu tack on the 3 contact points that support the drivers at the back of the enclosure. You only need a very small amount. If you put too much they'll sound kinda dead, and if you have disproportionate amounts on each side you might get some channel imbalance.


----------



## wualta

Oo. Do you have, or can you point to, photos of the SR-5 that show these support points?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oo. Do you have, or can you point to, photos of the SR-5 that show these support points?_

 

It's not a good one but it clearly shows the small supports:






 Those that have a SR-5 can post a better picture but be aware that it isn't wise to put too much pressure on the inner part of the driver sandwich as it can damage the diaphragm.


----------



## wualta

Can't tell if it's a good one or not at this point-- seems to be invisible-- but it's very interesting that there's enough transmission of sound via the supports to affect the sound coming from the 'stat capsule.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 Those that have a SR-5 can post a better picture but be aware that it isn't wise to put too much pressure on the inner part of the driver sandwich as it can damage the diaphragm. 
 

How do you tell if there's too much pressure, though? 

 I'll post pictures when I don't have a end-of-semester exam coming up on the next day


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't tell if it's a good one or not at this point-- seems to be invisible--_

 

I got that too at first, and hit quote to see if there was something the matter with the link. There isn't, it's fine-- must be this site acting up. When I backed up a page to get before the quote, the image loaded fine.


----------



## randerson3024

Does anybody concur that the SR007 Omega II Mk2's are much better than the the Omega II Mk1's, with the exception of deep bass and some spatial presentation that may improve as they break in? This is of course only being done with my SRM-727 while waiting on my BHSE, but I am very impressed so far. I was not expecting to be at all.


----------



## aaron313

^
 I am salivating about the end of summer, when my electrostat setup comes together. For now, I shall enjoy my Pico + HD650.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't tell if it's a good one or not at this point-- seems to be invisible-- but it's very interesting that there's enough transmission of sound via the supports to affect the sound coming from the 'stat capsule._

 

It's from the unofficial Stax site which is very slow to load but the pic is there. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you tell if there's too much pressure, though? 

 I'll post pictures when I don't have a end-of-semester exam coming up on the next day 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As more tension is added to the diaphragm you loose bass and the treble is improved. It's a weird effect but led me to build some crazy two diaphragm drivers which never worked properly... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can't really measure the tension once the film is bonded to the charge ring but you should hear it with ease. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody concur that the SR007 Omega II Mk2's are much better than the the Omega II Mk1's, with the exception of deep bass and some spatial presentation that may improve as they break in? This is of course only being done with my SRM-727 while waiting on my BHSE, but I am very impressed so far. I was not expecting to be at all._

 

The Mk2 is stock form is worse then the Mk1 for 9/10 owners that I've spoken too and I simply can't stand them. They are more impressive with the shouty midrange and midbass hump but it gets tiring real quick. Plug the ports and they are pretty much the same as the Mk1 but with more comfort (look a whole lot better too) though I've been far too busy to spend a lot of time with them this week.


----------



## derekbmn

Woo GES loaner has arrived....
 Some quick notes:
 Sorry to say that IMO it simply does not/cannot drive the O2s at all. It simply is lacking the power to do so. The bass is bloated and pretty much a mess. Lacking seriously in the dynamics department.

 On to the He EH1.2Bs.....MAGIC ....Perhaps a match made in heaven. Vocals are scary good sounding. There is some serious synergy going on here.
 Thats all for now......on to some more concentrated listening.


----------



## webbie64

Great it has good synergy with the HE1.2bs. I find the same with the HE60s, particularly after tuberolling.

 And I was therefore wondering whether tube rolling might assist you with the O2s. Won't give you the power you want (have to go up the KG designs to the BH I think) but may help improve (at least some of) the SQ issues you raise.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo GES loaner has arrived....
 Some quick notes:
 Sorry to say that IMO it simply does not/cannot drive the O2s at all. It simply is lacking the power to do so. The bass is bloated and pretty much a mess. Lacking seriously in the dynamics department.

 On to the He EH1.2Bs.....MAGIC ....Perhaps a match made in heaven. Vocals are scary good sounding. There is some serious synergy going on here.
 Thats all for now......on to some more concentrated listening.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## derekbmn

Honestly I don't think any amount of tuberolling will help. It's just a tell tale sign of underdriven O2s. 

 The good thing is that I tried it just for the heck of it, as my main intentions are to spend most of the time with it paired with the 1.2Bs anyway.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am going to be making more KGBH SE and have been getting more parts. I wanted to make sure that would be possible before offering any more for sale. I'll post a list of reservations on headamp.com soon like I've done for the Pico. Please send me another email and let me know that you're complin on Head-Fi_

 

Thanks but i've now decided to buy a legendary STAX SRM-T2 that i'm currently having fully refurbished.





 This should be very close to the BH/BHSE, but it would be interesting in future to have the opportunity to compare them. Perhaps if you sell one to a customer in Europe it might be possible to arrange this.


----------



## I-Love-Music

I'm so excited to see the thread! Always wanna try the Stax.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's from the unofficial Stax site which is very slow to load but the pic is there. 



 As more tension is added to the diaphragm you loose bass and the treble is improved. It's a weird effect but led me to build some crazy two diaphragm drivers which never worked properly... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can't really measure the tension once the film is bonded to the charge ring but you should hear it with ease. 



 The Mk2 is stock form is worse then the Mk1 for 9/10 owners that I've spoken too and I simply can't stand them. They are more impressive with the shouty midrange and midbass hump but it gets tiring real quick. Plug the ports and they are pretty much the same as the Mk1 but with more comfort (look a whole lot better too) though I've been far too busy to spend a lot of time with them this week._

 


 OK, Birgir, you are correct. I was only comparing the SR-007's. The original Omegas and HE 90's, as we say in Oklahoma, did open up fairly big can of whoop-ass on them. It will be even more evident when my BHSE arrives for certain.

 By the way, the Esoteric clock has brought Fight Club another notch! Just amazing!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo GES loaner has arrived....
 Some quick notes:
 Sorry to say that IMO it simply does not/cannot drive the O2s at all. It simply is lacking the power to do so. The bass is bloated and pretty much a mess. Lacking seriously in the dynamics department._

 

I'm not surprised. This is not one of Kevin's better designs.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo GES loaner has arrived....
 Some quick notes:
 Sorry to say that IMO it simply does not/cannot drive the O2s at all. It simply is lacking the power to do so. The bass is bloated and pretty much a mess. Lacking seriously in the dynamics department._

 

That don't sound too promising.
 Perhaps one of the reasons Kevin moved on to the KGSS? Instead of building further on the design. Hmmm


----------



## derekbmn

I really wasn't surprised either. Although I know there are O2 users out there that are very happy with the combination. 

 The amp really is very nice and the thing is a little tank.(very heavy) 
 It sounds VERY good with the Lambdas Pros and even better with the 1.2Bs. Both of which are easy to drive.

 I don't think it is a bad design, it's just not a real powerful one. I could easily see myself buying one and am REALLY looking forward too seeing if the rumors prove to be true regarding a new E-stat amp from Woo.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...REALLY looking forward too seeing if the rumors prove to be true regarding a new E-stat amp from Woo._

 

New e-stat from Woo? Guess I have missed out on the rumors...
 Something like the WA5 (LE) for electrostatic headphones would be really nice.


----------



## gimmish

derekbmn;4330115 said:
			
		

> Woo GES loaner has arrived....
> Some quick notes:
> Sorry to say that IMO it simply does not/cannot drive the O2s at all. It simply is lacking the power to do so. The bass is bloated and pretty much a mess. Lacking seriously in the dynamics department.
> 
> Perhaps the problem is partialy that the loaner is the prototype and also does not have the upgraded parts. I have had my upgraded GES for over two months now and I love it with my O2. I rolled the tubes after only 3 days and there was an amazing improvement. I have experimented with direct connection vs. going thru my pre-amp (ARC LS7 w/Seimens 6922's), thru the pre-amp there is a much greater soundstage and imaging, in fact it is awesome. With a direct connection there is maybe slightly less detail (might be all in my head). My next move is silver ICs and if needed mods to the LS7 which would include silver jacks and wire and upgraded caps. I know that in the past you have also touted the use of pre-amps with Stax so perhaps you should try that also because it does help with the power situation. With a direct connection I sometimes have to crank the volume knob pretty high but it seems to have alot to do with the recordings, but aside from the knob position it sounds just fine in regards to power. Using it as a power amp with the pre I put the volume to 75% and I have lots of room on the pre's volume knob. Of course this iall just IMHO.


----------



## derekbmn

Yes it's true that the loaner is probably not up to par with the production version.

 I will most definitely try driving it with a preamp ahead of it before my time is up with it.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New e-stat from Woo? Guess I have missed out on the rumors...
 Something like the WA5 (LE) for electrostatic headphones would be really nice._

 

All I know is it is supposed to be a 2 box setup. I tried to get some more info from Jack via email but had no luck.


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks but i've now decided to buy a legendary STAX SRM-T2 that i'm currently having fully refurbished.





 This should be very close to the BH/BHSE, but it would be interesting in future to have the opportunity to compare them. Perhaps if you sell one to a customer in Europe it might be possible to arrange this._

 


 OK I just have to know, where did you find it and how much?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Probably this thread as he is located in UK: Interest check:Stax T2 ! etc - pink fish media


----------



## smeggy

Damn complin, nice choice of amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It must feel good owning a legend! Congrats.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks but i've now decided to buy a legendary STAX SRM-T2 that i'm currently having fully refurbished.





 This should be very close to the BH/BHSE, but it would be interesting in future to have the opportunity to compare them. Perhaps if you sell one to a customer in Europe it might be possible to arrange this._

 

Very cool!!! I just barely managed to hold off buying it though only since it is more expensive then my BH is likely to be and I'll be happy to never, ever use another EL34. You know that we demand high resolution pictures of it, insides in particular and underneath the PCB so the circuit can be redrawn. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I assume you are having the caps, resistors and tubes replaced but you should be aware that the T2 is very fragile when it comes to dust buildup (all ESP amps are sensitive but the T2 can burn up) so some extra insulation on the most sensitive areas might be in order. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, Birgir, you are correct. I was only comparing the SR-007's. The original Omegas and HE 90's, as we say in Oklahoma, did open up fairly big can of whoop-ass on them. It will be even more evident when my BHSE arrives for certain.

 By the way, the Esoteric clock has brought Fight Club another notch! Just amazing!_

 

I love the SR-Ω but it's simply outclassed by the newer models. The modded SR-007A is silly good from the APL...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks but i've now decided to buy a legendary STAX SRM-T2 that i'm currently having fully refurbished.





 This should be very close to the BH/BHSE, but it would be interesting in future to have the opportunity to compare them. Perhaps if you sell one to a customer in Europe it might be possible to arrange this._

 

Really nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRM-T2 are on the WTB list of many of us. But sadly it has very limited availability and quite a high price tag.

 Hopefully Stax release a successor some day..


----------



## jdouglas

Wow, that T2 is beautiful


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I just have to know, where did you find it and how much?_

 

Its one of only about 12 that were ever imported into the UK. I have been looking for one for a long, long time but was never able to locate one anywhere. There is one that comes up on the web in Italy but its fictional, the company no longer deals in Stax its just they have never tidied up their web site.

 I was going to possibly go for a BH or BHSE but the import tax and duty is about 20 to 25% and the units dont have CE approval in the UK so if it needed repair I might have all the cost of sending it back.

 It came out of the blue via a dealer I know very well who used to be Stax's number one retailer world-wide. Once the unit has been completely refurbished it work out at about $8000, which is almost what a BHSE would have cost me to import. I do hope its going to be worth all the effort.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very cool!!! I just barely managed to hold off buying it though only since it is more expensive then my BH is likely to be and I'll be happy to never, ever use another EL34. You know that we demand high resolution pictures of it, insides in particular and underneath the PCB so the circuit can be redrawn. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I assume you are having the caps, resistors and tubes replaced but you should be aware that the T2 is very fragile when it comes to dust buildup (all ESP amps are sensitive but the T2 can burn up) so some extra insulation on the most sensitive areas might be in order. 



 I love the SR-Ω but it's simply outclassed by the newer models. The modded SR-007A is silly good from the APL... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes its having a good going over by a guy here who specialises in refurbing and tuning Stax tube energisers. Thanks for the heads up on the insulation.

 Yes i'm aware of the potential dust problems and short/fire risk so intend to keep it in a covered unit I can open up when i use it.

 I will try and take some photos of the innards and PCB's, but just depends how easy this will be as i dont really want to break it apart unless I really need to as this might cause other problems.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *complin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes its having a good going over by a guy here who specialises in refurbing and tuning Stax tube energisers. Thanks for the heads up on the insulation.

 Yes i'm aware of the potential dust problems and short/fire risk so intend to keep it in a covered unit I can open up when i use it.

 I will try and take some photos of the innards and PCB's, but just depends how easy this will be as i dont really want to break it apart unless I really need to as this might cause other problems._

 

All of the Stax amps are built into a frame so the top and bottom panels are just that, panels, and can be removed with a few screws. 

 Btw. That amp needs some NOS Mullard tubes both for the first and third stage. No current made junk will do.


----------



## krmathis

Some more SRM-T2 pictures to drool on. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Click for larger...








 





 





 





 





 





 





 





 







 [size=xx-small]Source: Sampler No.5 :: STAX SRM-T2[/size]


----------



## shomie911

Wow, it's a lot bigger than I thought.

 I want one!


----------



## mypasswordis

Someone send these pics to Dr. Gilmore, stat!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just completed an ESP950-to-Stax cable for Faust2D





_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woohooo 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can't wait to get my greedy little hands on this one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Okay now, I got the adapter, I can tell you folks that it looks perfect, like it belongs at the end of that cable, superb work all around. 

 Lets talk now about how my ESP950 sounds out of SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. First thing I noticed that, surprisingly, E/90 at the same volume position plays louder. SRM-1 sounds over all more refined with less bass punch and more detailed. Koss amp has more punch and sounds harsh in comparison. Does SRM-1 sound a lot better with ESP-950? - well yeah, but does it change ESP-950's sound signature that much? - not at all. 

 Over all I think ESP-950 sounds smother and more refined out of Stax amp and more aggressive but still fairly transparent and nice out of E/90. The build quality of E/90 is horrible, the sound quality is not as bad as the build quality, if you look at it as portable or transportable amp I bet it's on the level with SRM-001.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay now, I got the adapter, I can tell you folks that it looks perfect, like it belongs at the end of that cable, superb work all around. 

 Lets talk now about how my ESP950 sounds out of SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. First thing I noticed that, surprisingly, E/90 at the same volume position plays louder. SRM-1 sounds over all more refined with less bass punch and more detailed. Koss amp has more punch and sounds harsh in comparison. Does SRM-1 sound a lot better with ESP-950? - well yeah, but does it change ESP-950's sound signature that much? - not at all. 

 Over all I think ESP-950 sounds smother and more refined out of Stax amp and more aggressive but still fairly transparent and nice out of E/90. The build quality of E/90 is horrible, the sound quality is not as bad as the build quality, if you look at it as portable or transportable amp I bet it's on the level with SRM-001. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good news for the E/90, but not too much a surprise judging from what I heard out of the E/90. There's something appealing about running the Koss out of their own little box. Hey F2D, does the sound degrade if you leave the awful volume pot maxed and control volume at the source or preamp instead? If I ever grab a 950 and have to live with the E/90 for a while, I'd think of bypassing that volume control right out of the system.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good news for the E/90, but not too much a surprise judging from what I heard out of the E/90. There's something appealing about running the Koss out of their own little box. Hey F2D, does the sound degrade if you leave the awful volume pot maxed and control volume at the source or preamp instead? If I ever grab a 950 and have to live with the E/90 for a while, I'd think of bypassing that volume control right out of the system._

 

Never tried that, I will test this when I have time and let you know.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone send these pics to Dr. Gilmore, stat!_

 

For what its worth...
 He already made his version of the SRM-T2. Better known as the KGBH (Kevin Gilmore Blue Hawaii). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 The design is my conception of the mysterious and rare Stax T2 amp, which I have never been able to find at anything resembling a rational price.


----------



## J-Pak

Thanks for the SRM-T2 pictures.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone send these pics to Dr. Gilmore, stat!_

 

These pictures are old and of no use to retrace the amp as it's on a double sided PCB and most of the components are on the back on all Stax gear.


----------



## mypasswordis

That's a shame. Perhaps complin or whoever just bought a T2 would be willing to provide pictures of the backs of the PCBs.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay now, I got the adapter, I can tell you folks that it looks perfect, like it belongs at the end of that cable, superb work all around. _

 

I'm really glad to hear that. A lot of thought went into the design. I'm sure i can improve it, but I'm very happy that it worked out. Especially considering I'd never built one before, and have no esp950 to test it with. 

 You got the prototype for cheap. I might consider making more of them for other people, but I'd have to charge, oh, half what akzip charges for his cable.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the SRM-T2 pictures._

 

The pleasure is on my side! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I had seen very few pictures of it. So I searched Google, and look what I found...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pleasure is on my side! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I had seen very few pictures of it. So I searched Google, and look what I found..._

 

There have always been plenty of pictures of the T2 on the unofficial Stax site at: STAX Unoffcial Page


----------



## rsbrsvp

Does anyone whos has heard an ES-1 with 02's and HE90's prefer the sound of the ES-1 with the 02's?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really wasn't surprised either. Although I know there are O2 users out there that are very happy with the combination. 

 The amp really is very nice and the thing is a little tank.(very heavy) 
 It sounds VERY good with the Lambdas Pros and even better with the 1.2Bs. Both of which are easy to drive.

 I don't think it is a bad design, it's just not a real powerful one. I could easily see myself buying one and am REALLY looking forward too seeing if the rumors prove to be true regarding a new E-stat amp from Woo._

 

I used to own the Stax F81. They are electrotsatics loud speakers. Like the headphones, they are very power hungry. At first, I drove them with 100 watts class A solid state. The sound was small but sweet. The bass and highs were missing. This was a symtom of lack of power. I knew they were very hard to drive when I first bought them, but I thought 100 watts of Dr Thomas would surely move the flaps with some authority. I was wrong.

 I do not own the SR 007 yet, and intend to own one soon. For research, I have been going through all direct and indirect stax threads to enlighten myself. With the help of one headfier, in particular, I was able to learn more insight details about it. I thank him for sharing his knowledge. 

 It appears that the SR 007 like my F81 share common characteristics - difficult to drive. In the end, after a long journey I was able to make the F81 sing beautifully, but todate still believe, that its full vocals were not fully exploited and it can sing even more. Due to change of priorities, I had to sell the F81 away.


----------



## GuyMe

How much wattage should I need from my amp to drive a normal bias Lambda to listenable volumes?


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much wattage should I need from my amp to drive a normal bias Lambda to listenable volumes?_

 

Need? Very little, even a 10 watt amp could do it. Sheer wattage is not the most important consideration.


----------



## GuyMe

Oh good, I was worried 20 wouldn't be enough. I think the warm NAD sound should ease me into stats. Now I just need to buy some earspeakers and a transformer box to go with them.


----------



## pdennis

As a follow-up to my recent SRM-212 power supply travails:

 I relegated the regulated Acopian power supply I last reported on to Nuforce Icon duty, and picked up (secondhand of course) an Acopian U12Y1000, a 12v, 10 amp _un_regulated supply. Delightful overkill, don't you think? Cost me $35 shipped. The transformer in this thing is like a half brick, and the capacitor is equipped to deal with 10 amps, so the noise at 600mA is pretty low. Of course, with that little draw it's also putting out voltage a little above spec, around 13.5v.

 The upshot is, it sounds great! Initial impressions are that it's a definite improvement over the Stax PS + transformer. Dynamics are improved, and bass is S-C-A-R-Y. But of course, one of the great things about 'stats is that you can have your cake and eat it too: somehow big bass doesn't obscure the midrange like it sometimes does with dynamic headphones. So though my 202's are suddenly basshead cans, I'm not complaining.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh good, I was worried 20 wouldn't be enough. I think the warm NAD sound should ease me into stats. Now I just need to buy some earspeakers and a transformer box to go with them._

 

Nah. 20 watts is plenty. The maximum power handling of an SRD-7 is like 7 watts anyway. (11 peak, i think). 

 Also depends how they calculated the output power. The manual for my RA-820bx is a hoot, since it lists the power rating first in honest RMS of 25 watts, then a DIN rating of 35 watts, and finally a "music power" rating of 110 watts. It's certainly the biggest 25 watts I've heard. 

 Some of the bigger amps may perform better strictly due to their greater ability to handle reactive loads like transformers. But it doesn't have anything directly to do with the power rating. More the damping factor.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much wattage should I need from my amp to drive a normal bias Lambda to listenable volumes?_

 

I have found just 5 watt per channel is more than enough for SR-Lambda and SR-5 gold NB - using my Travagans Red headphone amp that has speaker outs. Sound quality is really good. The NuForce Icon 12 watt/channel is also very good with SRD-7SB and SRD-7 Pro.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have found just 5 watt per channel is more than enough for SR-Lambda and SR-5 gold NB - using my Travagans Red headphone amp that has speaker outs. Sound quality is really good. The NuForce Icon 12 watt/channel is also very good with SRD-7SB and SRD-7 Pro._

 

This is excellent news for my crazy hairbrained idea of using a beefed up M^3 amp to drive transformers pulled out of a Koss E.9 energizer. The M^3 amp, with a big enough power supply and enough rail capacitance, is supposed to drive 6 real honest non-marketing watts RMS into 8 ohms. 

 Which reminds me - I'm hoping to build more or less precisely the SRD-7 bias supply. Does anybody have a source for the zener device in the schematic, or a modern equivalent? I've found specs for the original device, but i can't figure out how to correlate them with specs for modern zener transient suppressors.

 If not, I guess i can figure out some other bias supply, maybe the variable bias supply dr. gilmore designed.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The NuForce Icon 12 watt/channel is also very good with SRD-7SB and SRD-7 Pro._

 

With the later "audiophile" 45 watt wall plug the Icon should do more on peak power than the 12 RMS off the 25w watt plug. I was thinking peak for a 20ms period would be about 20watts with a 45 watt wall plug. If I remember jason said the Icon would do at least 15 watts for 20ms using the stock one with more for the 45 watt one.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used to own the Stax F81. They are electrotsatics loud speakers. Like the headphones, they are very power hungry. At first, I drove them with 100 watts class A solid state. The sound was small but sweet. The bass and highs were missing. This was a symtom of lack of power. I knew they were very hard to drive when I first bought them, but I thought 100 watts of Dr Thomas would surely move the flaps with some authority. I was wrong.

 I do not own the SR 007 yet, and intend to own one soon. For research, I have been going through all direct and indirect stax threads to enlighten myself. With the help of one headfier, in particular, I was able to learn more insight details about it. I thank him for sharing his knowledge. 

 It appears that the SR 007 like my F81 share common characteristics - difficult to drive. In the end, after a long journey I was able to make the F81 sing beautifully, but todate still believe, that its full vocals were not fully exploited and it can sing even more. Due to change of priorities, I had to sell the F81 away._

 

The F81 is on my to buy list though it will be expensive to have it restored. It's one of the most inefficient speakers ever made at 73dc/1W/1m and will suck the life out of most amps and thus having rolled off frequency extremes. The SR-007 is indeed similar when used with the Stax amps but feed them plenty of voltage and enough current to deal with the impedance drop in the bass and treble and they will shine.


----------



## bralk

I am just beginning to use a pair of 303 phones.

 Connected to a 323II or a 717 I have a mains hum, most pronounced in the left channel. It is independant of volume setting and disappears if I ground the chassis of the amplifiers.

 The hum persist even after the amps are turned off.

 If I connect my 007 phones to the amps, there are no problems at all without grounding.

 Are the 303 phones so differently constructed that it can explain why they give me problems and the 007 don´t ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## ktm

Well, it looks like my Stax rig is coming together. 
 I'm still looking at building a tube amp, but for now,
 I found a deal that looked good. Head room had a demo 
 srm-313 and sr-202 combo that I just got off their B-stock page for
 $549 U.S. It should be here by end of week. I already have 
 a set of sr-404's, so I will be selling off the sr-202's.
 I've gotten a lot of enjoyment from using the sr-40/srd-4
 combo over the last couple of months. I've been using a Rotel
 rb980 amp to drive them, and they sounded very good for a 30 year 
 old set of cans. Time to clear out some of the other stuff too.
 I'll give my son first crack at the sr-40's. He's been using my Grado
 sr-125's for the last couple of years.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am just beginning to use a pair of 303 phones.

 Connected to a 323II or a 717 I have a mains hum, most pronounced in the left channel. It is independant of volume setting and disappears if I ground the chassis of the amplifiers.

 The hum persist even after the amps are turned off.

 If I connect my 007 phones to the amps, there are no problems at all without grounding.

 Are the 303 phones so differently constructed that it can explain why they give me problems and the 007 don´t ?

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I don't know why you aren't hearing a hum with your 007s, but in my case (303 phones +313 amp) I also get a hum if I don't ground the chassis of the amp.


----------



## antonyfirst

Question: how do the Omega II sound with the SRM-T1S? Is the amp enough to make them shine? Or I'd better save up to reach sky-high costing amplification? I thought the T1S wasn't powerful enough to do things reasonably well.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question: how do the Omega II sound with the SRM-T1S? Is the amp enough to make them shine? Or I'd better save up to reach sky-high costing amplification? I thought the T1S wasn't powerful enough to do things reasonably well._

 

The T1 is great for the Lambda series, SR-003, SR-X, SR-3/5, Gamma series and Koss ESP/950, but a little weak for the 007. I even think that the SRM-007t is not the perfect match. The best Stax amp for the 007 is the SRM-717. I even like the 717 better than the highly regarded KGSS. Unless you want to spend a lot of money the 717 is a real gem. There are a number of people here that would agree with me. The 717 can be had used around $1000USD.

 What I said about the 717 does not apply to the SRM-727II. Pass on it.


----------



## antonyfirst

Thanks.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The T1 is great for the Lambda series, SR-003, SR-X, SR-3/5, Gamma series and Koss ESP/950, but a little weak for the 007. I even think that the SRM-007t is not the perfect match. The best Stax amp for the 007 is the SRM-717. I even like the 717 better than the highly regarded KGSS. Unless you want to spend a lot of money the 717 is a real gem. There are a number of people here that would agree with me. The 717 can be had used around $1000USD.

 What I said about the 717 does not apply to the SRM-727II. Pass on it._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks._

 

I will have to be on the lookout for a 717 on sale.

 Thanks


----------



## 2deadeyes

Keep a lookout this fall


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will have to be on the lookout for a 717 on sale.

 Thanks_

 

Hehehe, Steve... it never ends.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the later "audiophile" 45 watt wall plug the Icon should do more on peak power than the 12 RMS off the 25w watt plug. I was thinking peak for a 20ms period would be about 20watts with a 45 watt wall plug. If I remember jason said the Icon would do at least 15 watts for 20ms using the stock one with more for the 45 watt one._

 

I am using an 80 watt Radio Shack regulated power supply (4500 ma available). But, the stock one doesn't sound bad at all.


----------



## rsbrsvp

A number of people have mentioned throughout this thread that they prefer the 950's to all of the Stax Lambda series headphones. How do they stack up to the SR-007 assuming equal source and amplification? How are they sonically different, similar, better or worse than the o2?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Unless you want to spend a lot of money the 717 is a real gem. There are a number of people here that would agree with me. it._

 

I am one of those people. Tried the the 007 with T1, 007T and 717.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know why you aren't hearing a hum with your 007s, but in my case (303 phones +313 amp) I also get a hum if I don't ground the chassis of the amp._

 

So I am not alone in this. Have you tried the 303 with another amp ?

 I plugged in a set of 202 and the hum was not there (without grounding)

 Strange !

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A number of people have mentioned throughout this thread that they prefer the 950's to all of the Stax Lambda series headphones. How do they stack up to the SR-007 assuming equal source and amplification? How are they sonically different, similar, better or worse than the o2?_

 

I find myself listening to the Koss ESP/950 more than any of my many Lambda’s. The O2 is a much better phone (more refined from top to bottom), but the 950 has a tonal balance closer to them than any other stat phone I’ve heard. The O2 has the deepest and cleanest bass of any stat phone I've heard. Period. The detail is very subtle on the O2 and seems to be part of the music. Most phones throw the detail at you like it's detatched from the music. The 950 is closer to the Lambda series than the O2. The 950 doesn’t have the low level detail of the Lambda series but is better in almost every other aspect. They can play loud without the irritating upper midrange/lower treble of the Lambda series. If you listen at lower levels you may like the Lambda series better. Koss have had problems with a channel imbalance and squealing noises coming off the drivers (probably dust between the stators) but they have a lifetime guarantee (I’ve had two replacements). The phones come with a extension cable that you can convert to a Stax amp adapter, leaving the phones stock in case you need to get warranty repair or use the Koss amp as a portable unit. I drive them mostly with my SRM-007t and SRM-T1w. I wish Koss would upgrade their amp!

 Think of the 950 as a better Lambda and not a baby O2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Think of the 950 as a better Lambda and not a baby O2._

 

Couldn't have said it better myself.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I am not alone in this. Have you tried the 303 with another amp ?

 I plugged in a set of 202 and the hum was not there (without grounding)

 Strange !

 cheers

 Tom_

 

This is strange indeed! No, I haven't tried any other electrostatic amp / can combination, but I thought there must be a reason why Stax built the amps in such a way to allow connecting the chassis to the ground. My electric outlets do not have proper grounding, btw.


----------



## Oublie

Hey Guys,

 I've been reading this thread on and off now for about a month i've got as far as page 204 but now my eyes are bleeding and i don't think i can get to the end. Thanks to all this talk of electrostatic i am sitting here penniless with no wallet left and in a pool of my own urine and poop.

 I am now the proud father of a set of sr40's and a set of SR Lambda normal bias. I can't take the lambda's off to go to the toilet because they sound so damn good! Instead i'm going to order a huge box of adult nappies off ebay and leave instructions to have them sent directly to my room. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Of course i exagerate but compared to the ultrasone hfi2200's i have -- well there really is no way to make any comparison these things are amazing - the sr40s kicked the ultrasones butt but the lambdas are even better!

 All I can say is a big thank you to everyone on this thread and to the unfortunate people who were bewildered enough to sell me their gear unless they were going for something higher end.

 Spritzer et all : I WANT MY WALLET BACK 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not going to rattle on about the sound of these things there's enough info in this thread for anyone to make a decision on what is right for them. However , I do have a couple of tweaks or mods i'd like to try and i'd like you guys to tell me if they will make any difference or not.

 I love my sr40's they are great little phones I let my future step son try them (getting married again) it was really funny, i put on the intro and to the light by Newton Faulkner from the handbuilt by robots album and his face was an absolute picture. You know that bit when bugs bunny dresses up as a girl and yosemite sam's eyes nearly fall out of his head? well thats what he looked like. All he could repeat was "it's so real! It sounds like the man is really there" I just smiled and thought the ears of a 9 year old don't lie 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I had previously tried him with the ultrasones to which i didn't get a reaction at all apart from him saying they "sounded good". (at the time i hadn't received the lambdas)

 Now heres the tweaks

 1. Although I wouldn't want to part with my sr40's i find the pads to be a little uncomfortable for long listening so i was thinking what if i change the pad size or put another set on top of the originals? I know this will changed the sound signature but i'd like to try. Can anyone recommend any that will fit or a way to do the trick?

 2. How hard is it to bypass the earspeaker / loudspeaker switch a picture or walkthrough would be appreciated. I'm fairly technical (work in I.T.) and have basic solder skills but would rather do it right.

 3. I'm currently using 2 energisers to run my gear. A SRD4 for the electret and a SRD7 SB MKII (pro and normal bias) for the Lamdas. These connect to the speaker terminals on a NAD 3020b which i love btw. 

 Will changing out the loudspeaker connection wire make a big difference to the sound and if so what would you folks recommend? What i'm thinking is changing the wire and possibly swapping out the speaker connections on the back to something better and using them connect instead of the cable to the terminals on the NAD. I will probably change the NAD terminals as well as they are old and not the greatest. While i'm at it an internal wire change to something better will also be on the cards.

 4. This is a little unrelated but simple question banana plugs, spades or even possibly rca for this?

 Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Oublie. Welcome to the "other side"!
 Now lets hope you stop with the SR-Lambda and don't walk into the "Omega land". Or else you're wallet get even more damage...

 Enjoy!


----------



## ktm

The sr-40/srd-4 combo I have sounds great. You can certainly tell
 the differences between upstream components with ease. Every
 amp and preamp I've tried sounds different(my wallet was shot
 before I ever got Here!). I hope by next week to be using my
 sr-404's.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oublie. Welcome to the "other side"!
 Now lets hope you stop with the SR-Lambda and don't walk into the "Omega land". Or else you're wallet get even more damage...

 Enjoy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks Krmathis,

 Thats why i got the pro adaptor hopefully xmas will see the omega's on my head although ill stick with the srd until i can decide on an amp. Very difficult to do this I live in Northern Ireland where theres no real dealers and i don't know of any other head fiers would love to got to a can jam though.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sr-40/srd-4 combo I have sounds great. You can certainly tell
 the differences between upstream components with ease. Every
 amp and preamp I've tried sounds different(my wallet was shot
 before I ever got Here!). I hope by next week to be using my
 sr-404's._

 

Definately I noticed a difference when i removed the ultrasonic and subsonic filters from my NAD. I'll probably pass my sr40s on to my step son if I get the omegas but youll have to pry the lambda from my cold dead hands 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 --------

 Any got any info on my questions?


----------



## GuyMe

I just won a Stax SR-44 electret thinger, what should I expect? Only cost $40 shipped so I figure I won't be disappointed one way or the other.


----------



## smeggy

I haven't heard any of the Stax electrets yet but they seem enjoyable to many. May give them a try one day... along with all the others I want to try


----------



## GuyMe

Everything I've read about the Stax electrets points to them being inferior to even the lowest-end stats. Should be fun to play around with until I get a Lambda though.

 Can the SR-40 work off an SRD-6? I coulda swore I've read the electrets can work on normal bias, probably mistaken though.


----------



## Tachikoma

The bias doesn't matter for electret headphones, since the bias pin on it isn't connected anyway.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Krmathis,

 Thats why i got the pro adaptor hopefully xmas will see the omega's on my head although ill stick with the srd until i can decide on an amp. Very difficult to do this I live in Northern Ireland where theres no real dealers and i don't know of any other head fiers would love to got to a can jam though._

 

Wow, upgrading again already? I hope you're having fun with my old traffo box


----------



## GuyMe

Oh, so it will work off any adapter?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, so it will work off any adapter?_

 

Yep


----------



## Don Quichotte

So, I'm having this problem (top of the page), also mentioned here (third post - sorry, I don't know how to link to only one particular post) and here, this last one was before I figured out that pressing the phones against the head (temporarily) solves the problem. Anyway, if you read the first link it should be enough.

*The buzz problem! For the third time, after replacing the drivers twice, in 2006 and 2007!!!*

 This year it was much more discrete, very faint, only in the right phone and only 3 times during the last week or so. The first two times solved by the above mentioned method, while the third time the buzz, mosquito-like this time, was appearing and disappearing depending on the position of my head. I assumed it must be a hair or something and I attempted to clean it (without removing the pad), but I couldn't find anything. After putting the headphones back on, the buzz was gone, probably because my fingers had unintentionally applied a slight pressure on the inner side of the phone.

 The guys from Stax Germany were very nice and all, but wouldn't explain me what was wrong no matter how much I asked. My guess is that they simply replaced the drivers without trying to diagnose the problem.

 Please, all of you guys who open, mod and some of you even build electrostatic phones, try to explain me 

 [size=xx-large]*WHAT IS GOING ON??? Pleeease!!!*[/size]

 There must be something wrong, you cannot explain the headphones going defective the third time in a row by mere bad luck.

 The amp has been checked by Stax in 2006 and found to be working properly.
 The only not very usual things I do are:
 1. I store the headphones in a clean plastic bag like those used for waste. I doubt the bag could emit whatever gases bad for the phones, and they are well protected against dust.
 2. I used to keep the phones permanently connected to the amp, but I turn the amp off when not listening. I've recently read Spritzer's recommendation to discharge the phones after use and I started doing so. Trying to check if the parasitic capacitance he mentions could be the problem, this last time I unplugged the phone and discharged it. When reconnecting it to the amp, the buzz was immediately back on.

 Please all use your brains and experience and try to figure out what is going on! This is getting exasperating!


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The bias doesn't matter for electret headphones, since the bias pin on it isn't connected anyway.



 Wow, upgrading again already? I hope you're having fun with my old traffo box 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thought it was you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not yours i'm afraid, I already had one i bought locally i've bought yours as a standby just in case. Old kit sometimes breaks. Yours is going to be modded if i can find the time I quite fancy the idea of a portable rig or trying to upgrade some parts to see if i can get more out of it btw still looking for some info from my first stax thread post.

 Yeah i've definately go upgradeitis i'm the same with my computers i always buys the fastest parts and then I overclock them as far as i can push it. Ill be saving my pennies from now until xmas in the hope of getting some omega's.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I'm having this problem (top of the page), also mentioned here (third post - sorry, I don't know how to link to only one particular post) and here, this last one was before I figured out that pressing the phones against the head (temporarily) solves the problem. Anyway, if you read the first link it should be enough.

*The buzz problem! For the third time, after replacing the drivers twice, in 2006 and 2007!!!*

 This year it was much more discrete, very faint, only in the right phone and only 3 times during the last week or so. The first two times solved by the above mentioned method, while the third time the buzz, mosquito-like this time, was appearing and disappearing depending on the position of my head. I assumed it must be a hair or something and I attempted to clean it (without removing the pad), but I couldn't find anything. After putting the headphones back on, the buzz was gone, probably because my fingers had unintentionally applied a slight pressure on the inner side of the phone.

 The guys from Stax Germany were very nice and all, but wouldn't explain me what was wrong no matter how much I asked. My guess is that they simply replaced the drivers without trying to diagnose the problem.

 Please, all of you guys who open, mod and some of you even build electrostatic phones, try to explain me 

 [size=xx-large]*WHAT IS GOING ON??? Pleeease!!!*[/size]

 There must be something wrong, you cannot explain the headphones going defective the third time in a row by mere bad luck.

 The amp has been checked by Stax in 2006 and found to be working properly.
 The only not very usual things I do are:
 1. I store the headphones in a clean plastic bag like those used for waste. I doubt the bag could emit whatever gases bad for the phones, and they are well protected against dust.
 2. I used to keep the phones permanently connected to the amp, but I turn the amp off when not listening. I've recently read Spritzer's recommendation to discharge the phones after use and I started doing so. Trying to check if the parasitic capacitance he mentions could be the problem, this last time I unplugged the phone and discharged it. When reconnecting it to the amp, the buzz was immediately back on.

 Please all use your brains and experience and try to figure out what is going on! This is getting exasperating!_

 

Again!!!???!!! Wow this does suck. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The buzzing can only be caused by two things, the diaphragms have arced and there is some debris (carbon based) creating a short to the stators or that there is some debris inside driver. A remote chance is that the cable has some dielectric issues but I don't know how that could happen. 

 The amp could be causing some issues by putting out a lot of DC to the stators but since Stax checked it out it should be fine. One way to check is to open it up and see if all the leds on the PCB aren't lit or simple measure the output.


----------



## krmathis

I just got a new toy to play around with.
 ...and this time I have betrayed Stax and gone for an ... [ ** trum roll **] ... AKG. An AKG K1000 to be precise. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The first dynamic headphone I audition (and own) in 10-12 months.






 I don't see myself dropping Stax anytime soon (or ever).
 But I had more or less come to an end when it comes to electrostatic headphones (no HE90 for me), and I have read too much nice reviews of the K1000 to stay clear any longer.
 Might end up scaling down my Stax collection to cover some of the costs involved in amplifying this "beast" though...

 Yours truly.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't see myself dropping Stax anytime soon (or ever).
 But I had more or less come to an end when it comes to electrostatic headphones (no HE90 for me), and I have read too much nice reviews of the K1000 to stay clear any longer.
 Might end up scaling down my Stax collection to cover some of the costs involved in amplifying this "beast" though..._

 

I like mine. Still like the electrostatics better. I think you will find that you miss the lower end.


----------



## smeggy

Congrats Kai, I spent all day yesterday at work listening to mine. Still a pretty damn good headphone.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Again!!!???!!! Wow this does suck. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The buzzing can only be caused by two things, the diaphragms have arced and there is some debris (carbon based) creating a short to the stators or that there is some debris inside driver. A remote chance is that the cable has some dielectric issues but I don't know how that could happen. 

 The amp could be causing some issues by putting out a lot of DC to the stators but since Stax checked it out it should be fine. One way to check is to open it up and see if all the leds on the PCB aren't lit or simple measure the output._

 

Thanks for your understanding and for trying to help.

 Let's take the hypothesis one by one:*
 1. Arching.* My normal listening level is around the hour 9:30 on the volume knob and I never turn it past 11 o'clock. What else but excessive listening level could result in arching?
*2. Debris.* Aren't the drivers insulated by a protective film? How could debris get in there and why so often, at least every 10-11 months? I do have a bit of dandruff, but most everybody else has. And most important, if this is because of debris why in the previous 2 cases the problem appeared sometimes in the left phone and sometimes in the right one? How could both drivers go wrong approximately at the same time?
*3. Cable.* No way, the first time the headphones were serviced Stax have also replaced the cable (for an unrelated reason).
*4. The amp.* Well, when I first sent the 3030 combo for servicing I also complained about L and R channels being very slightly out of balance if the 2 parts of the volume knob were correctly aligned. They said they checked the amp and it was OK (the problem is real, though, but I did not insist since I could easily remedy it), but I don't know if they checked for DC on the output too. So how, more precisely, can I check for it myself? Which holes should I put my multimeter in?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm serious, though...
 I'll open the amp and look for those leds tomorrow...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like mine. Still like the electrostatics better. I think you will find that you miss the lower end._

 

I see a SR-Sigma in your future... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your understanding and for trying to help.

 Let's take the hypothesis one by one:*
 1. Arching.* My normal listening level is around the hour 9:30 on the volume knob and I never turn it past 11 o'clock. What else but excessive listening level could result in arching?
*2. Debris.* Aren't the drivers insulated by a protective film? How could debris get in there and why so often, at least every 10-11 months? I do have a bit of dandruff, but most everybody else has. And most important, if this is because of debris why in the previous 2 cases the problem appeared sometimes in the left phone and sometimes in the right one? How could both drivers go wrong approximately at the same time?
*3. Cable.* No way, the first time the headphones were serviced Stax have also replaced the cable (for an unrelated reason).
*4. The amp.* Well, when I first sent the 3030 combo for servicing I also complained about L and R channels being very slightly out of balance if the 2 parts of the volume knob were correctly aligned. They said they checked the amp and it was OK (the problem is real, though, but I did not insist since I could easily remedy it), but I don't know if they checked for DC on the output too. So how, more precisely, can I check for it myself? Which holes should I put my multimeter in?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm serious, though...
 I'll open the amp and look for those leds tomorrow..._

 

Ok lets go over this:

 1. Arcing should only happen under duress i.e. the drivers driven to maximum excursion or that you are listening in a sauna and the air between the stators and the diaphragm becomes conductive at much lower voltages then normal. Neither is likely so lets move on. 

 2. The drivers are protected by a PVC sheet on the front and woven nylon on the back so any debris is unlikely. I've seen Lambdas that have come through hell and back and still sound great with a thick level of dust and grime on them. The odds that the drivers have been infiltrated with debris in such a short time are microscopic so lets move on. 

 3. The cable was a long shot and not very likely. 

 4. I think we are onto something here. The volume mismatch shouldn't be there and shows that there is potentially something wrong with the amp. I have a sick 007t here which behaves in a similar fashion but I haven't had the time lately to find out that's really wrong with it. Open up the amp and check to see if the led's aren't lit but the DC output would be measured at the output i.e the Stax jacks. The pinout has been posted multiple times here in the thread but you should measure between the + and - outputs for each channels and also measure with reference to ground. I would also PM Kevin Gilmore to see if he has any insight for you what might be wrong.


----------



## brat

I've been listening to my Omega II mk2 + SRM-727II combo for the past few weeks... It's my first stax system and I like it BUT a big problem makes a lot of my music unlistenable: The small dynamic range of this stax system makes most of the classics and acoustic music to sound unnatural and somehow _shrunk_ and _dry_. So my question is: Is it a problem with the amp (those "crappy" stax amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) or the omegas have such a _compressed_ sound signature?


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been listening to my Omega II mk2 + SRM-727II combo for the past few weeks... It's my first stax system and I like it BUT a big problem makes a lot of my music unlistenable: The small dynamic range of this stax system makes most of the classics and acoustic music to sound unnatural and somehow shrunk and dry. So my question is: Is it a problem with the amp (those "crappy" stax amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) or the omegas have such a compressed sound signature?_

 






 Are you serious?

 I heard the exact system you are talking about and my opinion is completely opposite, I thought it was incredibly realistic and lifelike. 

 Honestly it was closer to "being there" than any other dynamic I've ever tried (Yes, that includes the R10 and K1000.)


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shomie911* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 Are you serious?

 I heard the exact system you are talking about and my opinion is completely opposite, I thought it was incredibly realistic and lifelike. 

 Honestly it was closer to "being there" than any other dynamic I've ever tried (Yes, that includes the R10 and K1000.)_

 


 The SR-007mk2+SRM-727II system has VERY realistic timbre, INCREDIBLE speed but a compressed dynamic range.
 It is not noticeable with every recording. You can feel it with orchestral music or some records which have no the compression typical for most of the present music.


----------



## shomie911

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007mk2+SRM-727II system has VERY realistic timbre, INCREDIBLE speed but a compressed dynamic range.
 It is not noticeable with every recording. You can feel it with orchestral music or some records which have no the compression typical for most of the present music._

 

I heard the SR007II/SRM-727II system out of a Meridian 808.2 at CanJam.

 I thought it presented an amazing dynamic range, but maybe it was just my ears?

 Either way, the SR007IIs undoubtedly get better with proper amplification, so maybe that's the route you should go.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been listening to my Omega II mk2 + SRM-727II combo for the past few weeks... It's my first stax system and I like it BUT a big problem makes a lot of my music unlistenable: The small dynamic range of this stax system makes most of the classics and acoustic music to sound unnatural and somehow shrunk and dry. So my question is: Is it a problem with the amp (those "crappy" stax amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) or the omegas have such a compressed sound signature?_

 

I had a 727II and thought it was bland and lifeless compared to my 717. The O2II needs an incredable amount of time to break-in. Even after break-in I still like my O2 better. When you take the sonic problems with the O2II and add the sonic problems with the 727II you may end up with the sound you are having. The dynamics of my beloved 717 and original O2 are fantastic.

 IMO I think that Stax tried to get rid of the "Stax Fart" and ended up farting on the O2II. They also tried to make the 727II sound like a tube amp and all they got was mush.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been listening to my Omega II mk2 + SRM-727II combo for the past few weeks... It's my first stax system and I like it BUT a big problem makes a lot of my music unlistenable: The small dynamic range of this stax system makes most of the classics and acoustic music to sound unnatural and somehow shrunk and dry. So my question is: Is it a problem with the amp (those "crappy" stax amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) or the omegas have such a compressed sound signature?_

 


 You may need to break the system in more, Staxes take a long time to break in properly. The amps will also improve. My Omega MK2's sound good, but are lacking the deep bass and spatial presentation of my orginals and HE 90's. They will get better.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a 727II and thought it was bland and lifeless ..._

 

I'd also use these words to describe the influence of the compressed dynamics over some records. It just _supresses_ the impact of some more accented moments. But it's most audible with orchestral music as I mentioned above.
 I hope the burn-in will improve that problem.
 Waiting for the KGSS now


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd also use these words to describe the influence of the compressed dynamics over some records. It just supresses the impact of some more accented moments. But it's most audible with orchestral music as I mentioned above.
 I hope the burn-in will improve that problem.
 Waiting for the KGSS now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Compressed dynamics can also be a sign of bad power to the amp. Are the voltages correct, do you need a better power cord?


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compressed dynamics can also be a sign of bad power to the amp. Are the voltages correct, do you need a better power cord?_

 

Few months ago I experienced some problems with my 727II white I used it with a 110-220V transformer so I had to rewire it from 117V ( it's original voltage) to 220V.
 I hope it's not a voltage problem again.
 I don't feel it like a malfulction. But you set me think......


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd also use these words to describe the influence of the compressed dynamics over some records. It just supresses the impact of some more accented moments. But it's most audible with orchestral music as I mentioned above.
 I hope the burn-in will improve that problem.
 Waiting for the KGSS now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The KGSS may not be a big improvement either. I had high hopes when I got my KGSS. I did a big comparison with the 717, 727II, 007t & KGSS (I purchased them all!). I listen to a lot of Classical and acoustic Jazz and found that the KGSS does not have good low level detail or retrieval of ambiance cues. It is a powerful amp and has good dynamics. Trying to find the right amp for my O2’s has been a real hit and miss affair. It was a recommendation on this site that lead me to the 717. I use my 717 to drive my O2 & O2mk2 and my 007t to drive my many Lambda’s, SR-XIII, Koss ESP/950’s. I sold the KGSS & 727II on Audiogon.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Congrats on the K1K, Kai. I have a feeling you'll be reaching for your Stax more often than the AKG


----------



## silencewithin

Hi,

 Audiocubes stocks earpads for the 202/303/404, and also for the other Lambdas.
 I require pads for Lambda pro.
 What is the difference(s) between the 202 pads and the Lambda pads? And which should I choose and why?

 Does the foam in the cups get removed/replaced with the earpads? Are the pads/foam one piece as I've seen it alluded to?
 Is the foam related to the earpads at all, or does it just sit in there independently?
 Just wondering what to expect.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *silencewithin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 Audiocubes stocks earpads for the 202/303/404, and also for the other Lambdas.
 I require pads for Lambda pro.
 What is the difference(s) between the 202 pads and the Lambda pads? And which should I choose and why?

 Does the foam in the cups get removed/replaced with the earpads? Are the pads/foam one piece as I've seen it alluded to?
 Is the foam related to the earpads at all, or does it just sit in there independently?
 Just wondering what to expect.




_

 

202 earpads will fit fine. Foam is part of the earpad, however, newer earpads in fact do not have foam but synthetic mesh same as Omega 2.


----------



## silencewithin

Thanks a lot dvse 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm guessing that the old pads are not covered in the same material as the newer "pleather" 202/etc pads? The pads on the lambda-pro (probably the original pads) seem to be covered in a material that is more smoothly textured and nowhere near as soft as the 202/etc pads. I thought it might be wear, but I think pics of new "old-lambda" pads show a similarly smoother material.

 It just seems odd to me that if the 202 pads (perhaps improved over the old pads) fit the old headphones then stax would stop manufacturing the old pads. It's one less product to produce where the potential for profit doesn't seem very high... or maybe the slight additional cost of the old pads + the shear number of old headphones out there factors this in satisfactorily for the company. Interesting, to me anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, if the "old lambda" pads that audiocubes sell use the same material on the lambda pro headphones I have then I'd prefer to get the 202 pads.
 The difference in how they feel is worth a few silly questions here I think 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_202 earpads will fit fine. Foam is part of the earpad, however, newer earpads in fact do not have foam but synthetic mesh same as Omega 2._


----------



## Don Quichotte

Spritzer and all, I just did the measurements on my 313 amp outputs. Yes, there is a DC offset and that's not all! I have to leave home for a couple of hours, but upon my return I will put all the data in a table and post it, I think you will find it pretty interesting.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the K1K, Kai. I have a feeling you'll be reaching for your Stax more often than the AKG 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its fun trying out a dynamic headphone. Even if I don't intend to switch permanently..


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *silencewithin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks a lot dvse 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway, if the "old lambda" pads that audiocubes sell use the same material on the lambda pro headphones I have then I'd prefer to get the 202 pads.
 The difference in how they feel is worth a few silly questions here I think 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've bought the "Lambda Pro" pads from audiocubes before and they are in fact nothing like the originals and are made from the same material as the pads for SR-202 (and could actually be identical). I would definitely suggest the 2008 version of SR-202 pads as they have been updated to replace the foam with mesh.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Its fun trying out a dynamic headphone. Even if I don't intend to switch permanently.._

 


 Yes it is. I got the Edition 9's by my question regarding having any in stock as being interpreted as an order. I had to buy them out of principle, and they sound great with the Raptor.


----------



## spritzer

The only Lambda pads Stax has are for the current series so no Nova pads or Lambda Signature but since they all use the same chassis all the pads work on every model. My guess is that AC simply has differnt names for the pads as most users don't know that SR-202 pads are the modern replacement for Lambda/Lambda Pro sets. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer and all, I just did the measurements on my 313 amp outputs. Yes, there is a DC offset and that's not all! I have to leave home for a couple of hours, but upon my return I will put all the data in a table and post it, I think you will find it pretty interesting._

 

Cool.


----------



## silencewithin

Wow, clever audiocubes. I could understand renaming 202 pads as "lambda" pads... but charging extra 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just wow.
 That was very helpful guys, I appreciate it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've bought the "Lambda Pro" pads from audiocubes before and they are in fact nothing like the originals and are made from the same material as the pads for SR-202 (and could actually be identical). I would definitely suggest the 2008 version of SR-202 pads as they have been updated to replace the foam with mesh._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only Lambda pads Stax has are for the current series so no Nova pads or Lambda Signature but since they all use the same chassis all the pads work on every model. My guess is that AC simply has differnt names for the pads as most users don't know that SR-202 pads are the modern replacement for Lambda/Lambda Pro sets. _


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *silencewithin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, clever audiocubes. I could understand renaming 202 pads as "lambda" pads... but charging extra 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just wow.
 That was very helpful guys, I appreciate it._

 

That's AC for ya. They were ok in the past but I would never buy anything from them now.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its fun trying out a dynamic headphone. *Even if I don't intend to switch permanently*.._

 

I wouldn't bet money on that happening.


----------



## smeggy

I have two K1ks and I still listen to my 'stats more. The K1k is phenomenal, and so are my 'stats.


----------



## Don Quichotte

So, these are the measurements on my 313 amp. Besides the DC offset one may notice the slight channel imbalance I was talking about as well as the fact that under measurement condition A the left channel appears to be louder at low volume and the right channel appears to be louder at high volume. 

 However, according to my ears (which, without false modesty, are very good), to have a properly balanced sound at my habitual half past 9 o'clock listening level one should turn the left channel ever so slightly louder. Perhaps because the channel balance issue is slightly different at other frequencies than this 1kHz tone.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't bet money on that happening_

 

Wise choice.
 Cause with a fellow like me you never know what the next step will be..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, these are the measurements on my 313 amp. Besides the DC offset one may notice the slight channel imbalance I was talking about as well as the fact that under measurement condition A the left channel appears to be louder at low volume and the right channel appears to be louder at high volume. 

 However, according to my ears (which, without false modesty, are very good), to have a properly balanced sound at my habitual half past 9 o'clock listening level one should turn the left channel ever so slightly louder. Perhaps because the channel balance issue is slightly different at other frequencies than this 1kHz tone.




_

 

The DC offset is tiny when put into context of the massive voltage swing so that isn't the problem. The channel imbalance is most likely caused by the volume pot not tracking correctly as it's pretty much dead on at lower levels. I would send in the amp and have them replace the pot but other then that the amp is fine.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The DC offset is tiny when put into context of the massive voltage swing so that isn't the problem. The channel imbalance is most likely caused by the volume pot not tracking correctly as it's pretty much dead on at lower levels. I would send in the amp and have them replace the pot but other then that the amp is fine._

 

...which leaves us (me in particular
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) nowhere... If the amp is not the culprit, then what the **** is? I'll PM Kevin Gilmore about this, as you suggested, just maybe...
 By the way, the debris inside the driver supposedly resulting in this infamous buzz can be seen somehow, just to confirm that this is the malfunction indeed, or Stax will (had) most likely just replace (-d) the driver, thus leaving the explanation for the buzz unconfirmed? 
 Oh, and the drivers are matched pairs or can be replaced independently?

 Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted about this.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's AC for ya. They were ok in the past but I would never buy anything from them now._

 

Well, so where do you get replacement pads then?


----------



## Snacks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes it is. I got the Edition 9's by my question regarding having any in stock as being interpreted as an order. I had to buy them out of principle, and they sound great with the Raptor._

 

That's an expensive answer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've lost track of the amounts of times that I almost purchased the Ed9. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It would probably end up in storage with the rest of the other headphones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...which leaves us (me in particular
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) nowhere... If the amp is not the culprit, then what the **** is? I'll PM Kevin Gilmore about this, as you suggested, just maybe...
 By the way, the debris inside the driver supposedly resulting in this infamous buzz can be seen somehow, just to confirm that this is the malfunction indeed, or Stax will (had) most likely just replace (-d) the driver, thus leaving the explanation for the buzz unconfirmed? 
 Oh, and the drivers are matched pairs or can be replaced independently?

 Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted about this._

 

You can't see the debris even if you could open up the driver to reveal the diaphragm and have a light source reflecting off it. The gap between stator and diaphragm is only 0.5mm and if the particle is only half that size it will cause trouble. 

 I seem to remember that you posted about the silver mesh when you had the drivers replaced the last time and Stax changed from the original black mesh only recently so the drivers would be new. 

 The drivers are matched pairs so both would have to go. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, so where do you get replacement pads then?_

 

Eifl or use one of the deputy services to buy from a Japanese online store.


----------



## Don Quichotte

I have just e-mailed Mr. Gilmore because I couldn't PM him, I'll let you know his answer.

 Regarding the pads, the 303 /404 pads have been updated with a different filling too? Wouldn't it have a different density than the old one and thus change the sound somewhat?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have just e-mailed Mr. Gilmore because I couldn't PM him, I'll let you know his answer.

 Regarding the pads, the 303 /404 pads have been updated with a different filling too? Wouldn't it have a different density than the old one and thus change the sound somewhat?_

 

I've yet to test the new pads but the change should be minimal at best. Changing the material in the earpads can have a big effect though.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Well, Mr. Gilmore was so kind to come up with a tentative explanation. He said storing the headphones in a plastic bag could be the cause as they probably sit in a very humid air - the moisture could be due to sweaty earpads. It makes some sense to me as the malfunction tends to appear at the beginning of the warm period of the year.

 If this is correct, the only question is if the driver is permanently damaged or it could "dry" somehow and spare me of the hassle of another driver replacement. Mr. Gilmore suggested I leave the amp on with the phones connected for 2-3 days and see if the buzz goes away definitively. I'm only worried the amp could overheat - it sits in a piece of furniture with many ventilation holes in the back and some 30 cm. of room all around it, but the doors should stay closed during the day and my room is very warm during the summer (no air conditioning). I'll find a solution.


----------



## evil-zen

I stay in a very humid country. My method of keeping electrostatics dry is the same for cameras. I place my O2 in a dry box with dessicants. In that way, they are kept in a humidity level of around 30% or less. 

 I use one of these electric silica dessicants which can be reheated to allow moisture to escape and reuse again.


----------



## Faust2D

How dangerous is humidity when it comes to stats? Are NYC levels dangerous? I have AC in the room but it is off for most of the day because I am at work. All this humidity talk is making me worried about my Staxsen


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How dangerous is humidity when it comes to stats? Are NYC levels dangerous? I have AC in the room but it is off for most of the day because I am at work. All this humidity talk is making me worried about my Staxsen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah yes, I thought I heard a little of that "Spritzer-bag grattle" on your Stax last time I was over... probably too late to save them now. If you want, I'll take those now-ruined Sigmas off your hands, though.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Ditto - it's been quite humid the last few days here in NYC. Should we take any precautions?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah yes, I thought I heard a little of that "Spritzer-bag grattle" on your Stax last time I was over... probably too late to save them now. If you want, I'll take those now-ruined Sigmas off your hands, though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ahhhhhhhhh!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Must de-humidify immediately!!!


----------



## evil-zen

Singapore has an average humidity of 84%. So I guess most of you do not need to worry that much.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, Mr. Gilmore was so kind to come up with a tentative explanation. He said storing the headphones in a plastic bag could be the cause as they probably sit in a very humid air - the moisture could be due to sweaty earpads. It makes some sense to me as the malfunction tends to appear at the beginning of the warm period of the year.

 If this is correct, the only question is if the driver is permanently damaged or it could "dry" somehow and spare me of the hassle of another driver replacement. Mr. Gilmore suggested I leave the amp on with the phones connected for 2-3 days and see if the buzz goes away definitively. I'm only worried the amp could overheat - it sits in a piece of furniture with many ventilation holes in the back and some 30 cm. of room all around it, but the doors should stay closed during the day and my room is very warm during the summer (no air conditioning). I'll find a solution._

 

That certainly could be the cause but there has to be condensation on the drivers for it to happen as the bias is so low compared D/S spacing. The Stax dust covers are open on the bottom so that there is no build up of moisture. 

 The amp should be fine in that environment. Having some forced cooling is a plus (a fan of some sorts) but try leaving it on for 24 hours and if you can rest your hand for an extended period of time on top of the chassis it will be fine. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How dangerous is humidity when it comes to stats? Are NYC levels dangerous? I have AC in the room but it is off for most of the day because I am at work. All this humidity talk is making me worried about my Staxsen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm sorry but I can't help you here are Iceland is very dry even though the sea is only 20m away from my house. Stax did build in a lot of humidity protection with insulated stators and a lower bias voltage so they claim it's fine up to 90% if there is no condensation.


----------



## J-Pak

We use a dehumidifier at night in the home theater room every few days. It's unbelievable how much water it collects.


----------



## krmathis

Well, now it happens.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have decided to scale down my Stax collection. I have tried a lot and decided to only keep those I enjoy the most and the rare ones. Meaning SRM-007t, SRD-7 Pro, SR-007BL, 4070, SR-X/MK3 Pro and probably the SR-404.

 The rest are either for sale, or will go there:
 * SRD-7 MK2 -> Sold
 * SRM-1/MK2 Pro -> For sale
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7 -> For sale
 * SR-Lambda Pro x2 -> Keep an eye with the FS forum, or send me a PM...

 Don't fear. I will still enjoy my remaining Stax'en.


----------



## Axel

Hi Guys!

 Is it possible to connect the O2 to the SRM-323?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Axel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Guys!

 Is it possible to connect the O2 to the SRM-323?_

 

Yes it has 5 pin pro connections afaik.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, now it happens.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have decided to scale down my Stax collection. I have tried a lot and decided to only keep those I enjoy the most and the rare ones. Meaning SRM-007t, SRD-7 Pro, SR-007BL, 4070, SR-X/MK3 Pro and probably the SR-404.

 The rest are either for sale, or will go there:
 * SRD-7 MK2 -> Sold
 * SRM-1/MK2 Pro -> For sale
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7 -> For sale
 * SR-Lambda Pro x2 -> Keep an eye with the FS forum, or send me a PM...

 Don't fear. I will still enjoy my remaining Stax'en. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Since you are selling off some things and keeping others please tell us what you think you have that has synergy with each other; i.e., which amps go best with which headphones.

 Since having the SRM-T1S I now can say the SRX-1 Mk3 normal bias is a real performer, very surprising to me. With another sound altogether different from the SR-Gamma Pro with that amp.


----------



## ok computer

krmathis, how would the SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7, paired with nuforce icon or travagans green be for a stax starter system? do you think it would be better than getting the 2050a with alien dac, or sr-005 with zero? Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since you are selling off some things and keeping others please tell us what you think you have that has synergy with each other; i.e., which amps go best with which headphones._

 

You can't go much wrong with the SRM-1/MK2 Pro and the SR-Lambda Pro imo. Perhaps a reason why they were sold as a system back in the -80's...
 The SR-X/MK3 sound very nice through the SRD-7 and a speaker amp as well.

 Thats about it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ok computer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, how would the SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7, paired with nuforce icon or travagans green be for a stax starter system? do you think it would be better than getting the 2050a with alien dac, or sr-005 with zero? Thanks._

 

Thats hard to answer, since have never heard the nuforce icon, travagans green, alien dac or the zero. But I will try.
 The SR-X/MK3 & SRD-7 itself would be a really nice starter system. Cause "everybody" have a speaker amp, and hence could enjoy electrostatics for a relative small amount of money.
 The 2050a system is different (it use a Lambda phone), worth about the double, and a step up I would say. The SR-X/MK3 is a monitor, with another sound than the Lambdas.

 There are lots of impressions about all these systems in here.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Having never heard the SR-X mk3 what I can offer is that the Travagans and NuForce do a great job driving my SR-Lambda Signature and Sennheiser HE60 with an SRD-7 Pro, as well as drive my normal bias SRD-7SB with SR-5NB Gold very well too. 

 The sound with the Travagans amp is closer to my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro amp, and the sound with the Nuforce is a little more weighty and solid (so I prefer the NuForce with my HE60).


----------



## smeggy

I still prefer the SR-X III to the Lambdas. It has a solidity to the sound I really like. Fast, full and oh so good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What can I say, I like monitor sound and it's what I aim and tune for in my mods.


----------



## Tachikoma

I like the SR-Xmk3, but the top end is kinda recessed.

 I just received a Lambda Pro + SRM-1mk2 combo today. Its ironic that when I first started out on stats this was my "dream" setup (Jahn Jahn Jahn...) and I already own something better by the time I finally get my hands on it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Lambda Pro somehow reminds me of the SR-5NB. Warmish, with a nice and wide soundstage.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still prefer the SR-X III to the Lambdas. It has a solidity to the sound I really like. Fast, full and oh so good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What can I say, I like monitor sound and it's what I aim and tune for in my mods._

 

When I team the SR-X III normal bias with the T1S tube amp the sound is simply great. With the SRM-1 Pro I thought the SR-X III a little thin. The SR-Gamma Pro may be a little warm with the T1S with some tracks but with others it also is simply great but different from the SR-X III. 

 Stax should be looked at by anyone getting into this hobby. Don't know really why I failed to check Stax out for so long. I just did not know what I didn't know.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Axel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Guys!

 Is it possible to connect the O2 to the SRM-323?_

 

Yes - and it sounds decent as well. 

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax should be looked at by anyone getting into this hobby._

 

Very well said!
 For some reason most Head-Fi'ers seems to ignore Stax (and electrostatics in general). I believe its partly caused by these misconceptions:
 * Electrostatics are *so* expensive.
 * Electrostatics have no bass.

 Well, at least they don't know what they miss out of.


----------



## ktm

The real problem is, other than head-fi meets, where does one go to listen to Stax? 
 Most people don't have a local dealer. The upfront costs are large.
 DIY for amps can be tough do to the rarity of higher voltage components.
 Also, the large look of Stax puts a lot of people off. 
 I am lucky to have a local dealer, and to of listened to them at the
 Dallas Head-fi meet. Stax will never be the headphone choice of
 the masses.

 On another note, what kind of improvemnet does the flat ribbon 
 extension cable have over the older universal round one? I currently
 am running the round cord with the 404's. I purchased it several
 months ago for $22. I am debating spending the $150 for the new style.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 On another note, what kind of improvemnet does the flat ribbon
 extension cable have over the older universal round one? I currently
 am running the round cord with the 404's. I purchased it several
 months ago for $22. I am debating spending the $150 for the new style. 
 

I upgraded from the older flat cord to the new "wide" flat cord; the main improvements that I remember are in soundstage width, and that the new cord has a more "relaxed" sound. (less siblance etc, perhaps) 

 On a somewhat related note, the new extension cord made using the new flat cord is also more transparent than the old round-type extension; the old one would dull the treble a little, while I couldn't hear any differences with the new extension cord (as compared to plugging the headphones into the amp directly).


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The real problem is, other than head-fi meets, where does one go to listen to Stax? 
 Most people don't have a local dealer. The upfront costs are large._

 

The upfront costs aren't that bad. If you keep your eyes peeled, you can get yourself sorted out for around $400-450.


----------



## smeggy

Buying used stax is usually a pretty safe bet. All mine are old except the 003 which I bought new for $125. I have 3 stax adapters, 2 pro and 3 normal bias phones running off a variety of power amps. I bought them from England, Germany, Japan and the US.

 The things last forever.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Buying used stax is usually a pretty safe bet. All mine are old except the 003 which I bought new for $125. I have 3 stax adapters, 2 pro and 3 normal bias phones running off a variety of power amps. I bought them from England, Germany, Japan and the US.

 The things last forever._

 

Where did you get the SR-003 new for that much? Like spritzer I need some Staxies for Blue Hawaii testing in case something...uh goes wrong


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you get the SR-003 new for that much? Like spritzer I need some Staxies for Blue Hawaii testing in case something...uh goes wrong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Use your SR-007


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Use your SR-007 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For BH testing, that's a scary thought


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For BH testing, that's a scary thought 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Joking joking. I good headphone to use for BH is Koss ESP950. If it breaks just send it back to Koss to get fixed.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you get the SR-003 new for that much? Like spritzer I need some Staxies for Blue Hawaii testing in case something...uh goes wrong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I got them from Audiocubes, sadly they're now $179. Gone up a big chunk like all the other stax stuff there.


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Use your SR-007 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

That's what I did for mine. It's all I had at the time.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The real problem is, other than head-fi meets, where does one go to listen to Stax? 
 Most people don't have a local dealer._

 

Guess I should consider myself lucky then, who have a locale dealer (also the Scandinavian Stax distributor) in town. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 The upfront costs are large. 
 

The upfront costs are not that large. $3-500 should get you a nice system.
 People spend that and even more on dynamic systems..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got them from Audiocubes, sadly they're now $179. Gone up a big chunk like all the other stax stuff there._

 

It helps living outside US then. he he
 Since the USD have gone down 20-25% the last year or so. Resulting in pretty much stable prices for Stax gear from Japan.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I did for mine. It's all I had at the time._

 

They are nigh on impossible to arc so why not use them. It's the same for the SR-003 so it's a great tool for testing sick little amps like this 007t I've got sitting here and with no time to even look at...


----------



## smeggy

YOW!

 Well I just found out what kind of electrocution potential the sony ECR transformers dish out... OWOWOWOWOCH! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Damn that stings, much stronger than the little zapping I got from the Stax transformers. The Sonys going full tilt from my Hafler pack a good wallop. I'm impressed!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_YOW!

 Well I just found out what kind of electrocution potential the sony ECR transformers dish out... OWOWOWOWOCH! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Damn that stings, much stronger than the little zapping I got from the Stax transformers. The Sonys going full tilt from my Hafler pack a good wallop. I'm impressed!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Can you put me in your will for the Smegma Pros, in case anything happens, considering I helped you get the drivers for them?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Joking joking. I good headphone to use for BH is Koss ESP950. If it breaks just send it back to Koss to get fixed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd love to hear my ESP/950 out of my Stax transformer box. Anyone want to lend me an adapter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But the Omega 2 are way ahead of them in my current setup.


----------



## moonboy403

How does the Stax SR-Lambda rank in Stax's own lineup?

 It'll be paired with Srd 7


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still prefer the SR-X III to the Lambdas. It has a solidity to the sound I really like. Fast, full and oh so good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What can I say, I like monitor sound and it's what I aim and tune for in my mods._

 

I find that the SRX III has a remarkable detailed sound and smoothness over the mid and upper frequencies. However, in part because of its weak bass it has an overall thin sound and can make much music unlistenable. I do not prefer mine over a Lambda Nova or 404. I regard it a sort of specialty item for detail freaks. Myr lambdas are more listenable over a wider range of material.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd love to hear my ESP/950 out of my Stax transformer box. Anyone want to lend me an adapter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But the Omega 2 are way ahead of them in my current setup._

 

Hey ericj, got a price quote on a Koss to Stax adapter?


----------



## smeggy

I wish you could hear the Smegma Pro first hand. I think you'd be quite astonished at the level and depth of bass in them. The modified SR-X was very surprising in how much bass they produced after I finished with them but the Pro drivers are something else again. More and deeper bass than the Lambda with much smoother mid/highs. The solidity and detail I crave is there in spades and being circumaural they are very comfortable. They are the best phones I've heard to date. I've heard some damn nice phones too.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the Stax SR-Lambda rank in Stax's own lineup?

 It'll be paired with Srd 7_

 

I have only heard vintage stax, other than my SR-003, but I can say the SR-Lambda are one of my favorites among my huge collection of stat and dynamics, and almost as good as the SR-Lambda Signature Pro. I would NEVER sell mine. It would be hard for most dynamic headphones to beat the SR-Lambda, which sound at least as good as a Grado RS-1 to me (maybe better with some material).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish you could hear the Smegma Pro first hand. I think you'd be quite astonished at the level and depth of bass in them. The modified SR-X was very surprising in how much bass they produced after I finished with them but the Pro drivers are something else again. More and deeper bass than the Lambda with much smoother mid/highs. The solidity and detail I crave is there in spades and being circumaural they are very comfortable. They are the best phones I've heard to date. I've heard some damn nice phones too._

 

I accept your offer to listen to them firsthand. Just PM me for my address and FedEx number. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, in case I lose them, how much will I owe you, so I can have my checkbook ready.


----------



## p997tt

Please excuse my ignorance, but I heard that new electrostatic headphones need to be charged up first. Is this process the same as burn-in for dynamic headphones? Or do I just need to leave the headphones plugged into the driver unit with the driver unit turned on?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd love to hear my ESP/950 out of my Stax transformer box. Anyone want to lend me an adapter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But the Omega 2 are way ahead of them in my current setup._

 

PM ericj, he might be willing to make one for you


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey ericj, got a price quote on a Koss to Stax adapter?_

 


 It's hard to say, really. I mean akzip charges $140 for his, but he uses extra fancy silver pins on the plug.

 how about, with the barrel painted black rather than polished up, $50 + ship. And specify how much of the 6-foot koss extension cord you want me to use (f2d's adapter cable is full-length, but i can make you a short one).


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I accept your offer to listen to them firsthand. Just PM me for my address and FedEx number. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW, in case I lose them, how much will I owe you, so I can have my checkbook ready. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hehe, they're never leaving my sight. I think I'd be in mourning the whole time they were gone


----------



## slwiser

What is the life expectancy in hours for a 6CG7 tube in a SRM-T1S? Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the life expectancy in hours for a 6CG7 tube in a SRM-T1S? Thanks_

 

Many thousands of hours.


----------



## tensaichen

So I had the pleasure of putting O2 on my head for the first time this past weekend in the NorCal meet . . . and discovered a minor problem.

 Either those particular cans were fairly unused/new, or I really have a big head, the elastic band of O2 was forcing the cups to go up and crushing my ear lobes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I literally had to keep 2 hands on the cups for the listening session, otherwise my ear lobes were feeling a bit raw. It seems like my fit would be flush if I cold remove the elastic band completely.

 Is there a way to adjust the fit or would the elastic loosen up over time?


----------



## rsbrsvp

Does anyone know the WPI part number for the stax Jack (socket) that is used on the ES-1? I want to order one or two extras to have on hand.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I had the pleasure of putting O2 on my head for the first time this past weekend in the NorCal meet . . . and discovered a minor problem.

 Either those particular cans were fairly unused/new, or I really have a big head, the elastic band of O2 was forcing the cups to go up and crushing my ear lobes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I literally had to keep 2 hands on the cups for the listening session, otherwise my ear lobes were feeling a bit raw. It seems like my fit would be flush if I cold remove the elastic band completely.

 Is there a way to adjust the fit or would the elastic loosen up over time?_

 

The elastic on the new Mk2/A model is much stiffer then the Mk1 but the arc can (should!) be bent to accommodate the different head sizes.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know the WPI part number for the stax Jack (socket) that is used on the ES-1? I want to order one or two extras to have on hand._

 

78-S6S I believe.
WPI - 78-S6S - Allied Electronics


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The elastic on the new Mk2/A model is much stiffer then the Mk1 but the arc can (should!) be bent to accommodate the different head sizes._

 

Ahhh . . . now I finally understand what you mean by the bending of the arc in the old posts about O2 earcup seals. After my experience with ATH-AD2000, comfort is definitely a high priority when it comes to headphones. I was afraid that I would be denied the O2 sound because of the fit issue.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahhh . . . now I finally understand what you mean by the bending of the arc in the old posts about O2 earcup seals. After my experience with ATH-AD2000, comfort is definitely a high priority when it comes to headphones. I was afraid that I would be denied the O2 sound because of the fit issue._

 

Bending the arc is a necessity since the earcups can't swivel like almost every other headphone out there. Add that to the subpar sound of the Mk2 compared to the Mk1 and you haven't heard what the BHSE should be able to do.


----------



## wareagle69

Can I get some opinions on driving Lamda Nova's through a SRD 7 Pro with a Singlepower PPX3-6sn7 providing the power? Thanks for any help.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wareagle69* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I get some opinions on driving Lamda Nova's through a SRD 7 Pro with a Singlepower PPX3-6sn7 providing the power? Thanks for any help._

 

It doesn't have speaker outputs ....so it really isn't possible.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know the WPI part number for the stax Jack (socket) that is used on the ES-1? I want to order one or two extras to have on hand._

 

It's Cooper/WirePro aka WPI (and formerly Amphenol) 78-S6S. 

 It's out of stock at allied until November, iirc. I spoke with them about it recently. 

 There is another vendor with stock, but they have a $50 minimum order. You'd have to order about 15 of them, iirc.


----------



## wareagle69

derekbmn thanks for the reply. 

 So the unit does not have RCA connections, just the speaker outs? Are there any other options available that would let you power the Stax headphone through a headphone amp other than the Stax amps? Obviously I am totally ignorant on this.


----------



## wareagle69

OK, should have spent more time with the search engine. Found a picture of the rear of SRD 7 Pro and understand why it won't work. Still welcoming any comments on other options. Thanks.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wareagle69* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, should have spent more time with the search engine. Found a picture of the rear of SRD 7 Pro and understand why it won't work. Still welcoming any comments on other options. Thanks._

 

Well, you should connect the SRD to one of those thingies called *speaker amps*.Those aren't exactly rare and most households do already own such gear.A generally accepted rule of thumb is: the better the quality the better the outcome ......
 A cheap and relatively decent solution is a new "class D" amp like T-amps et al.Prices start at $30, and for ~$ 150 you should get a really decent semi-DIY class D amp (PCB already populated, ready for inserting into a case like a cigar box or similar).
 Another option is a used vintage amp.Some of them do sound really good and should cost less than $150 in good condition, maybe even already recapped.
 Anything with equal or more than 2X5W RMS into 8 Ohm should do the trick, and your original idea of utilizing a headphone amp (for dynamic headphones) is not totally impossible since there are some that do provide enough wattage into an 8 Ohm load but they are rare and it would be easier and most probably cheaper to get a decent speaker amp.


----------



## wareagle69

Thanks for the info cosmopragma. Must be a brain fade day for me.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was hung up on trying to do this using a dedicated headphone amp, and blind to the more obvious solution that you suggest.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's Cooper/WirePro aka WPI (and formerly Amphenol) 78-S6S. 

 It's out of stock at allied until November, iirc. I spoke with them about it recently. 

 There is another vendor with stock, but they have a $50 minimum order. You'd have to order about 15 of them, iirc._

 


 Thanks..


----------



## tensaichen

Does the Audiocube's replacement headband for Stax earspeaker include the plastic portion or is it just the leather part?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the Audiocube's replacement headband for Stax earspeaker include the plastic portion or is it just the leather part?_

 

Both plastic arc / forks and the headband.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I want to reiterate that the Travagans Red or Green amps, and the Nuforce Icon are all Sub $200 amps that have both speaker out and headphone out, and they do a great job drivng the SRD-7.

 The Travagans have a slightly better headphone out, but the Nuforce has a moderately better speaker out. Interestingly, while the NuForce drives full size speakers better, they both drive the SRD-7 very well. I'm on my pda phone right now, so I can't easily link you to other threads about them.


----------



## Asr

I discovered the Stax SR-5 at a meet over the weekend, will the Blue Hawaii SE drive this directly? Also is there a sonic difference between the white and gold models? I already did some searching and found that there's a difference in diaphragm thickness but didn't see anything about sonic differences.


----------



## Tachikoma

Only if you ordered a BHSE with a normal bias 6-pin output. However the BHSE could theoretically run the SR-5 into oblivion, since it has more voltage swing than what the SR-5 is built to handle; that really shouldn't happen unless you tried to use the SR-5 as an open air speaker, though.

 There are also white "gold" models, which kinda adds to the confusion...


----------



## minivan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have always been plenty of pictures of the T2 on the unofficial Stax site at: STAX Unoffcial Page_

 

this unofficial stax site is awesome, showing so many internal pic of stax products from past to present, also lots of other brand electrostatic products as well.should classify as the best electrostatic **** web site 
 for those who can't read japanese, the text on the left column is the category for different product, click on one of them will bring up all the different model in that category , click on one of the model will bring up all the internal pic of that product, enjoy! thanks audiod


----------



## rsbrsvp

I have read in these pages that many like this headphone a lot. Nevertheless I understand there are or were some technical issues with it. Can a Head-Fi member please explain what the difficulties are with these phones and if they have been resolved. I know they have a lifetime warranty- butI prefer not to have to rely on that.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have read in these pages that many like this headphone a lot. Nevertheless I understand there are or were some technical issues with it. Can a Head-Fi member please explain what the difficulties are with these phones and if they have been resolved. I know they have a lifetime warranty- butI prefer not to have to rely on that._

 

The biggest problem with the phones is a channel imbalance or a squealing noise coming from the driver (no music playing). They also have had breakdown problems with the amplifier. I have to believe that current phones have the problem rectified but there are a lot of NOS units out there.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The biggest problem with the phones is a channel imbalance or a squealing noise coming from the driver (no music playing). They also have had breakdown problems with the amplifier. I have to believe that current phones have the problem rectified but there are a lot of NOS units out there._

 

Thanks. I find channel imbalance serious. Is there any way to confirm the problem has been delt with?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. I find channel imbalance serious. Is there any way to confirm the problem has been delt with?_

 

They have a no questions asked warranty from Koss, you send them in they send you new pair, you only pay for shipping.


----------



## audiod

Originally Posted by rsbrsvp 
 Thanks. I find channel imbalance serious. Is there any way to confirm the problem has been delt with?

 Not that I know of. I would find a retailer that you trust and ask them If they have fresh inventory or have them check the phones before shipping.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They have a no questions asked warranty from Koss, you send them in they send you new pair, you only pay for shipping._

 


 My only problem with that is i want to have Apure recable them which would A. void the warranty and B. cost me to recable every time I need to exchange a defective pair for a new one- unless all the problem eminates from poor cabeling or connection which Apure would solve- making my warranty unnecessary..


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My only problem with that is i want to have Apure recable them which would A. void the warranty and B. cost me to recable every time I need to exchange a defective pair for a new one- unless all the problem eminates from poor cabeling or connection which Apure would solve- making my warranty unnecessary.._

 

I would leave the cable alone. The problems relate to the driver not the cable. It is just not worth voiding a lifetime warranty. The phones come with a extension cord that you can put a Stax connector on it and leave the phone cord stock. IMO changing cables on a electrostatic headphone (I’ve changed them on my SR-XmkIII, SR-5, Lambda Pro & ESP-9) has a much smaller effect on the sound than changing the cord on a dynamic phone (I’ve changed them on my K-1000 & HD-650).


----------



## derekbmn

Got word via email today from Jack Wu (Woo Audio) ,that he is indeed working on a new stat amp and hopes to have the prototype finished in 2-3 months. It will be a higher end offering. I for one am very excited !


----------



## progo

I tried to search the thread but to no avail.. 

 I've seen some tube amps have a maximum usage for a day, exceeding it would risk the tubes too much. Does the 007t have such limits on day usage? 6 hours a day? How long it takes to cool down so the cycle can be repeated? 

 Sometimes I might listen to music even 8 hours somewhat on the row.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried to search the thread but to no avail.. 

 I've seen some tube amps have a maximum usage for a day, exceeding it would risk the tubes too much. Does the 007t have such limits on day usage? 6 hours a day? How long it takes to cool down so the cycle can be repeated? 

 Sometimes I might listen to music even 8 hours somewhat on the row. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Small current tubes last longer if you leave them on all the time. The thermal cycling makes the internal parts get loose and microphonic. My Audible Illusions M3a has been on for over 10 years straight with only 2 tube changes. NASA and Bell Labs used to keep their tube Tektronix and Hewlett-Packard test equipment on 24 hours a day. The 007t can be left on all the time, but make sure it gets ventilation.


----------



## Faust2D

New stat "higher end offering" amp as in BH based?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New stat "higher end offering" amp as in BH based? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry... thats all I could get out of him......no more info than that.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A gut feeling says very likely.... but all is speculation. I guess we will just have to wait and see.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry... thats all I could get out of him......no more info than that.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A gut feeling says very likely.... but all is speculation. I guess we will just have to wait and see._

 

Very cool. I probably will not be able to afford one, but it is still interesting that new stat amp is on the market.


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Small current tubes last longer if you leave them on all the time. The thermal cycling makes the internal parts get loose and microphonic. My Audible Illusions M3a has been on for over 10 years straight with only 2 tube changes. NASA and Bell Labs used to keep their tube Tektronix and Hewlett-Packard test equipment on 24 hours a day. The 007t can be left on all the time, but make sure it gets ventilation._

 

Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If and when I get some STAX I'll be burning music out like there's no tomorrow.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got word via email today from Jack Wu (Woo Audio) ,that he is indeed working on a new stat amp and hopes to have the prototype finished in 2-3 months. It will be a higher end offering. I for one am very excited !
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice. Any ideas on the price range?


----------



## spritzer

Time for some Stax history. I got a set of SR-1's yesterday in excellent condition with no channel imbalance and instant charge up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They only needed to be cleaned properly and some light refurbishment such as replacing glue but I must say that the grandfather does sound pretty damn good despite it's 45+ years of age. The soundstage is wast, with a great midrange presence and HF response but the bass is limited and they aren't very linear. Considering what was avaialble in 1960 these must have sounded like a revelation. 

 I'll post pics when I have time to take them. Now I can move onto finding the other two Stax phones which have eluted me... 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_New stat "higher end offering" amp as in BH based? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I haven't heard anything but it seems out of character for them to add a massive CCS to any one of their amps.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll post pics when I have time to take them. Now I can move onto finding the other two Stax phones which have eluted me... _

 

Which phones are these?


----------



## rsbrsvp

There is a brand new- completely unused pair of HE90 headphones from the origional batch for sale on Audiogon for $12,000. If I bought it and didn't like it after a month and kept them in perfect condition could I sell tham without a loss? I would appreciate some advice please.

 Thanks..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got word via email today from Jack Wu (Woo Audio) ,that he is indeed working on a new stat amp and hopes to have the prototype finished in 2-3 months. It will be a higher end offering. I for one am very excited !
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice to hear that the rumors are true! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Wondering what design he have gone for, and how "High End" it turns out to be.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which phones are these?_

 

SR-X Mk1 and the unobtainable SR-2.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a brand new- completely unused pair of HE90 headphones from the origional batch for sale on Audiogon for $12,000. If I bought it and didn't like it after a month and kept them in perfect condition could I sell tham without a loss? I would appreciate some advice please.

 Thanks.._

 

For that price I would expect the associated amp and DAC.

 Hard to say who would buy them off you, but they seem way over-priced to me but then I haven't even bought an Omega.


----------



## spritzer

Here are some pics of the SR-1. It appears that the SR-1 didn't have a white shell like the SR-3 and later phones but this slightly brownish color as it was also on the inside. The baffle was white though. The drivers are very similar to the SR-3 but the stators are smaller and there was some refinement in the later model such as how they are held together.


----------



## tensaichen

I've just received my SRD-7 MKII, and have a few questions that I can't answer through the search function.

 1) The back of the unit listed, 110v, 117v, 220v, 240v . . . does that mean I can plug it straight into any wall outlet, or it can be configured to any voltage?

 2) I understand the binding posts are for connection to the speakers amps, but what's the gray thick tubing with 4 colored wires coming out of it?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just received my SRD-7 MKII, and have a few questions that I can't answer through the search function.

 1) The back of the unit listed, 110v, 117v, 220v, 240v . . . does that mean I can plug it straight into any wall outlet, or it can be configured to any voltage?

 2) I understand the binding posts are for connection to the speakers amps, but what's the gray thick tubing with 4 colored wires coming out of it?_

 

You have it backwards. The grey thick tubing with wires is what you connect to the speaker amp, and you connect the speakers to the binding posts.

 Then you can switch between the earspeakers (stax) or loudspeakers. If it's too confusing for you, I'd be happy to buy it from you and save you the trouble.


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have it backwards. The grey thick tubing with wires is what you connect to the speaker amp, and you connect the speakers to the binding posts.

 Then you can switch between the earspeakers (stax) or loudspeakers. If it's too confusing for you, I'd be happy to buy it from you and save you the trouble. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll leave a note when I hook up the amp, and if I do somehow blow myself up in the process, then the adapter will go to you.

 Now, how about enlightening me with the answer to the voltage question I had .. .


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For that price I would expect the associated amp and DAC.

 Hard to say who would buy them off you, but they seem way over-priced to me but then I haven't even bought an Omega._

 

I don't think you can get the HE90/HEV90 for $12k in this day and age, can you?

 If the original poster kept the headphones in its original, minty-smelling, fresh-out-of-the-box condition, I doubt there would be a lack of buyers. One query though: by "unused", does it imply sealed and never opened? I imagine the value as a collector's item will drop considerably if opened.


----------



## smeggy

Spritzer, that SR-1 really is mint condition isn't it. Absolute beauty! It almost boggles the mind that there are still new and unused sets of these around after all these years! 

 Enjoy them


----------



## slwiser

Here is a simple Stax setup the is very very good and competes with my Yamamoto HA-02 and Ultrasone Edition 9 for my musical enjoyment. 

 Squeezebox digital into Lavry DA10 feeding the Nuforce Icon. The Icon feeds the Stax SRD-7 Pro where the SR-Gamma Pro is plugged. The Icon and SRD are connected using the Nuforce speaker cable that has the two banana plugs for each channel and the SRD amp cable also has two banana plugs for each channel; so I use a banana coupler to connect these four sets of banana plugs.






 My SRX-1 Mk3 with the SRM-T1S is in its own way just as impressive as this setup. This is a normal bias setup at that.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the vote of confidence 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll leave a note when I hook up the amp, and if I do somehow blow myself up in the process, then the adapter will go to you.

 Now, how about enlightening me with the answer to the voltage question I had .. ._

 

Sorry, I am not sure, so I didn't answer.

 From my experience with Stax SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, if you have on the rear a rectangular thing held down by a pair of screws, and at the 4 corners you have the voltages listed with an arrow pointing to them, like in the photos below, then you have to change it manually: On my I could go 100v (arrow point to bottom right corner), 117v (arrow point to top right corner, 220v (arrow point to bottom left corner) and 240v (arrow point to top left corner):










 When I got it from Mapstec it was set for 220v like in the bottom photo and I changed it to 117v myself.


----------



## zantetsuken

is this the right rig for me? i listen to all sorts of genres mostly these

 Alternative (coldplay and the like), House (hedkandi etc), Dance, Electronica, Rnb, hiphop, Soul, Classical, Vocal and Instrumentals, Trance and many others but these are just a few to name. I wanted to build a balanced rig with my computer, how would the SQ of this rig compare to the higher end? thats what i wanted to know and for the price its worth if there are any other options in my components that would be great as well.

 Computer (Toslink out)->Benchmark DAC1 PRE/Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax S007ta->Omega II.

 Im still toggling between the tube amp or solid state amp, i have never had a chance to hear tube amps can someone describe the sound quality for me?, is it really buzzy and distorted?, and how long do tubes last if theyre well cared for, i would be listening to music for long periods of time. My budget for the whole system is around 5g (exluding the computer), so any other suggestions are most welcome. i tried to read through the thread but its too big lol so my apologies if this has already been asked.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zantetsuken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is this the right rig for me? i listen to all sorts of genres mostly these

 Alternative (coldplay and the like), House (hedkandi etc), Dance, Electronica, Rnb, hiphop, Soul, Classical, Vocal and Instrumentals, Trance and many others but these are just a few to name. I wanted to build a balanced rig with my computer, how would the SQ of this rig compare to the higher end? thats what i wanted to know and for the price its worth if there are any other options in my components that would be great as well.

 Computer (Toslink out)->Benchmark DAC1 PRE/Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax S007ta->Omega II.

 Im still toggling between the tube amp or solid state amp, i have never had a chance to hear tube amps can someone describe the sound quality for me?, is it really buzzy and distorted?, and how long do tubes last if theyre well cared for, i would be listening to music for long periods of time. My budget for the whole system is around 5g (exluding the computer), so any other suggestions are most welcome. i tried to read through the thread but its too big lol so my apologies if this has already been asked._

 

I love the 007t with my Lambdas. I like it with O2 MK2. It's sweet and lush, but a bit polite and could use a bit more edge with the O2. The DAC1 helps, but I think you should also consider a KGSS or a solid state Stax. This is not to say the 007t is a bad amp (to me at least), just that a solid state amp may that little bit of extra pop.


----------



## Tachikoma

To be on the safe side, you should experiment with a lower end stax setup first. (Say one of the vintages, or a SR-003 with a SRM-252 or SRD-7 + power amp) The O2 may be a better headphone than the rest of them, but there are a lot of characteristics that it shares with the rest of them.

 (I'm not pulling that out of my ass, since my O2 just arrived yesterday with a SRM-717 that err.... fell from the sky, with a parachute)


----------



## zantetsuken

the only thing thats really bad about living in a place where i live is u dont get to try stuff often (sydney) we had a meet up recently and i had the chance to listen to the O2, and i must say it was absolutely mind blowing!, thats what got me interested in getting them i havent tried any other stax in the series and i was looking to build myself a decent system since i start work soon so i can save up some cash and go for a system ive always wanted to build, and because of shipping costs and taxes it would take to bring high end equipment into this country (not many local dealers and they sell way too expensive..i think an omega II + Amp here is like 9000) i dont get lots of chances to experiment thats why i just wanted to go straight to the top of the line and use it for as long as the cows come home, bad idea? Its not just about the cash its also the resources if i go for lower end stax they might not be the sound for me, and the only ones ive really tried and like are the O2z.


----------



## oicdn

I know it's not a monster set-up like everybody elses here, but it's still a Stax!!! A baby Stax, but still a Stax, lol. And it's a chance for me to show off my first stat rig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	

















 Using somebody elses camera...so pardon the date stamp. I didn't realize it was there until after I already gave it back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've finally found my portable nirvana. If this set-up is any teaser as to what the full-sizers sound like....I'm in for a LOT of trouble.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know it's not a monster set-up like everybody elses here, but it's still a Stax!!! A baby Stax, but still a Stax, lol. And it's a chance for me to show off my first stat rig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Using somebody elses camera...so pardon the date stamp. I didn't realize it was there until after I already gave it back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've finally found my portable nirvana. If this set-up is any teaser as to what the full-sizers sound like....I'm in for a LOT of trouble._

 

Yes, it is the perfect teaser. And the desktop version SR-003 through my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro blows away the stock SR-001 Mk2.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just received my SRD-7 MKII, and have a few questions that I can't answer through the search function.

 1) The back of the unit listed, 110v, 117v, 220v, 240v . . . does that mean I can plug it straight into any wall outlet, or it can be configured to any voltage?

 2) I understand the binding posts are for connection to the speakers amps, but what's the gray thick tubing with 4 colored wires coming out of it?_

 

Nice! Less than a week after I shipped it out from Oslo, Norway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 1. Correct. Just plug it straight into any wall outlet, as long as the plug will fit, and enjoy.
 2. The 4 colored wires (gray tubing) are for hooking it up to the bindings on your speaker amplifier. The binding posts on the back side of the SRD-7 are for your hooking your regular speakers to the system. Then change output with the front switch.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are some pics of the SR-1. It appears that the SR-1 didn't have a white shell like the SR-3 and later phones but this slightly brownish color as it was also on the inside. The baffle was white though. The drivers are very similar to the SR-3 but the stators are smaller and there was some refinement in the later model such as how they are held together. 

ImageShack - Hosting :: img1640cu0.jpg
ImageShack - Hosting :: img1642uq7.jpg
ImageShack - Hosting :: img1643bd0.jpg_

 

Nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Looks to be in really nice condition as well. Earpads and all...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zantetsuken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is this the right rig for me? i listen to all sorts of genres mostly these

 <snip>

 Computer (Toslink out)->Benchmark DAC1 PRE/Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax S007ta->Omega II._

 

I have an almost identical setup, which I am very pleased with. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Computer (Toslink out)->Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax SRM-007t->Omega II.

 There may indeed be better (as in more powerful) amplifiers out there. But the rest of the gear is golden.


----------



## zantetsuken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Looks to be in really nice condition as well. Earpads and all...


 I have an almost identical setup, which I am very pleased with. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Computer (Toslink out)->Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax SRM-007t->Omega II.

 There may indeed be better (as in more powerful) amplifiers out there. But the rest of the gear is golden._

 

is the electrocompaniet just a dac or is it also an amp?, would it be better to pick up a DAC1-PRE instead?, since it offers both a pre amp feature as well as a DAC, or is electrocompaniet better in terms of SQ?, im not sure if uve tried more expensive rigs, but if expensive rigs (i mean $10000+) were to be rated 10/10 in terms of sonic quality what would this rig be rated? if that was the benchmark?.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zantetsuken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is the electrocompaniet just a dac or is it also an amp?, would it be better to pick up a DAC1-PRE instead?, since it offers both a pre amp feature as well as a DAC, or is electrocompaniet better in terms of SQ?, im not sure if uve tried more expensive rigs, but if expensive rigs (i mean $10000+) were to be rated 10/10 in terms of sonic quality what would this rig be rated? if that was the benchmark?._

 

Its a DAC. No built in speaker og headphone amplifier.
 Don't know the DAC1-PRE, so no idea how it compares to the ECD1. But perhaps someone else have heard both of them?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zantetsuken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is this the right rig for me? i listen to all sorts of genres mostly these

 Alternative (coldplay and the like), House (hedkandi etc), Dance, Electronica, Rnb, hiphop, Soul, Classical, Vocal and Instrumentals, Trance and many others but these are just a few to name. I wanted to build a balanced rig with my computer, how would the SQ of this rig compare to the higher end? thats what i wanted to know and for the price its worth if there are any other options in my components that would be great as well.

 Computer (Toslink out)->Benchmark DAC1 PRE/Electrocompaniet ECD1->Stax S007ta->Omega II.

 Im still toggling between the tube amp or solid state amp, i have never had a chance to hear tube amps can someone describe the sound quality for me?, is it really buzzy and distorted?, and how long do tubes last if theyre well cared for, i would be listening to music for long periods of time. My budget for the whole system is around 5g (exluding the computer), so any other suggestions are most welcome. i tried to read through the thread but its too big lol so my apologies if this has already been asked._

 

From looking at the different types of music that you listen to I would consider the Stax SRM-717 (not the 727II, too bland) or HeadAmp KGSS. The 007t is a nice sounding unit but is underpowered for the O2. The one drawback of the KGSS is that is does not have good low level detail and is not good at retrieving ambiance cues in music like Classical and acoustic Jazz. Both have good dynamics and extended bass and treble. The KGSS is more forward in the midrange than the 717. I had a four way comparison of a KGSS, 717, 727II & 007t and kept the 717 for my O2 & O2II and kept the 007t for my many other low and high bias stat phones.


----------



## zantetsuken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From looking at the different types of music that you listen to I would consider the Stax SRM-717 (not the 727II, too bland) or HeadAmp KGSS. The 007t is a nice sounding unit but is underpowered for the O2. The one drawback of the KGSS is that is does not have good low level detail and is not good at retrieving ambiance cues in music like Classical and acoustic Jazz. Both have good dynamics and extended bass and treble. The KGSS is more forward in the midrange than the 717. I had a four way comparison of a KGSS, 717, 727II & 007t and kept the 717 for my O2 & O2II and kept the 007t for my many other low and high bias stat phones._

 

thanks for the quick dirty comparison i think i might go for the 717z


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, that SR-1 really is mint condition isn't it. Absolute beauty! It almost boggles the mind that there are still new and unused sets of these around after all these years! 

 Enjoy them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are mint now but they were pretty filthy on arrival. After stripping them down, cleaning and rebuilding them they do look very nice. I still have to work a bit on the headband but other then that they are great. The only bad news is that this the last version of the SR-1 (out of at least 3 or 4) so I may have to track down another one. 

 There are some old Stax phones in mint condition out there. My SR-3 was still in the plastic wrap when I got them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice score! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Looks to be in really nice condition as well. Earpads and all..._

 

The earpads are brand new so no wonder...


----------



## oicdn

What headphones are these?


----------



## Duggeh

Those look like Grado SR-dusties.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What headphones are these?




_

 

Let me guess..
 * Seems to be black (so its either an SR-Lamdba or SR-Lambda Pro).
 * Connected to an SRD-7 Pro (Pro bias -> excluding the SR-Lambda).

 /me guess its an SR-Lambda Pro.


 A dusty one that is...


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me guess..
 * Seems to be black (so its either an SR-Lamdba or SR-Lambda Pro).
 * Connected to an SRD-7 Pro (Pro bias -> excluding the SR-Lambda).

 /me guess its an SR-Lambda Pro.


 A dusty one that is... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The ebay auction is closed. I hope someone here got them.
 The seller couldn't answer any questions about the Cans,
 or the srd-7.


----------



## oicdn

I was going to snag them up...but I didn't know what kinda headphones they were...dammit.


----------



## moonboy403

That's a SR-Lambda Pro. I asked the seller yesterday and that's what he told me.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a SR-Lambda Pro. I asked the seller yesterday and that's what he told me._

 

And I asked him, he said srd-7. At that point I decided he didn't know much.
 Someone must of enlightened him.


----------



## oicdn

So pretty much, that person got a SMOKIN deal, lol. Ah well....there's always next time. Atleast you guys got replies, lol.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What headphones are these?




_

 

At $272 someone got a really nice SR-Lambda Pro and SRD-7 Pro deal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Lets hope its a Head-Fi'er.


----------



## moonboy403

are the pro's worth more than the older lambda?

 and anyone here pair a tube amp/preamp with a stax setup?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are the pro's worth more than the older lambda?

 and anyone here pair a tube amp/preamp with a stax setup?_

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...ml#post4426541


----------



## wualta

A smokin' deal? Hope so. Notice, however, that nowhere did the seller claim the Lambdas or SRD-7 Pro worked or that they were tested in any way, and I think we can guess from his responses to questions that they weren't tested.


----------



## Akabeth

Wow this thread gave me quite a drool fest.

 1)So, after some reading impressions, it seems that the SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo is a good way to start. Is this true?

 2)I have never been in a head-fi meet or Canjam before, but during the bigger ones do members/MoT bring whole electrostat rigs to audition?

 Thanks for the thread.
 For now, I'll keep reading


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow this thread gave me quite a drool fest.

 1)So, after some reading impressions, it seems that the SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo is a good way to start. Is this true?

 2)I have never been in a head-fi meet or Canjam before, but during the bigger ones do members/MoT bring whole electrostat rigs to audition?

 Thanks for the thread.
 For now, I'll keep reading 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

See the pictures for the Dallas meet. There were several set ups.
 Even a BH.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I had the pleasure of putting O2 on my head for the first time this past weekend in the NorCal meet . . . and discovered a minor problem.

 Either those particular cans were fairly unused/new, or I really have a big head, the elastic band of O2 was forcing the cups to go up and crushing my ear lobes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I literally had to keep 2 hands on the cups for the listening session, otherwise my ear lobes were feeling a bit raw. It seems like my fit would be flush if I cold remove the elastic band completely.

 Is there a way to adjust the fit or would the elastic loosen up over time?_

 

That is exactly the same problem as I have experienced with my new O2 MK II. I do have a pretty large head and there was no comfortable way of wearing the O2. I did bend the arc but this alone didn't resolve the problem. The solution was to exchange the elastic band for a slightly longer and more elastic one. Having done this, the fit is *so much* better. Now I'd even call them super-comfortable – something I would never have thought possible!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow this thread gave me quite a drool fest.

 1)So, after some reading impressions, it seems that the SRM-1/MkII - Lambda Pro combo is a good way to start. Is this true?_

 

Yes, in fact it's such a great start and such a great value that you may not even need to move on. Of course, that's easier said than done.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2)I have never been in a head-fi meet or Canjam before, but during the bigger ones do members/MoT bring whole electrostat rigs to audition?

 Thanks for the thread.
 For now, I'll keep reading 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup, at most of the medium/large meets you will find 'stat rigs to play with. Many of them drool-worthy. Also, I think there was a recent all-'stats mini-meet in the NYC area.


----------



## jp11801

well you guys did it with a final push by blessingx at the NorCal meet with his Stax rig. Just dipping my toe in and picked up the sr-x mklll with an srd-7 and it sounds wonderfull. This has pretty deep bass, not as much as my balanced 650s but still good. It's the tonality and texture of the instruments and vocals that really shines. Detail is good to great and I am really satisfied for a $215 investment it compares sonically to a much more expensive dynamic rig. The mids are crazy good and all this out of 40 year old fisher kx-100 integrated amp.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp11801* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well you guys did it with a final push by blessingx at the NorCal meet with his Stax rig. Just dipping my toe in and picked up the sr-x mklll with an srd-7 and it sounds wonderfull. This has pretty deep bass, not as much as my balanced 650s but still good. It's the tonality and texture of the instruments and vocals that really shines. Detail is good to great and I am really satisfied for a $215 investment it compares sonically to a much more expensive dynamic rig. The mids are crazy good and all this out of 40 year old fisher kx-100 integrated amp._

 

Ah, welcome to the craziness Nums! I'm selling off my dynamic rig!


----------



## jp11801

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, welcome to the craziness Nums! I'm selling off my dynamic rig! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am pretty freaked out that a 30 year old stat can keep pace with a top class dynamic rig in many aspects. It is not without faults as they can get a bit top end gritty on modern recording which I think is as much a problem with the recording as it is anything. 

 Any one have a good suggestion for an amp for these, remembering that these are old and have the 6 pin normal bias? I am reluctant to use a dedicated amp as these have dynamics in spades and I'd hate to lose that.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp11801* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any one have a good suggestion for an amp for these, remembering that these are old and have the 6 pin normal bias? I am reluctant to use a dedicated amp as these have dynamics in spades and I'd hate to lose that._

 

Personally I'd stick with the Fisher and experiment with tube rolling and interconnects. Keep in mind that STAX in general are extremely responsive to changes upstream. The wrong ICs can at times seem to literally make or break the setup.


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The solution was to exchange the elastic band for a slightly longer and more elastic one. Having done this, the fit is *so much* better. Now I'd even call them super-comfortable – something I would never have thought possible!_

 

Where did you get a longer and more elastic band? I wasn't aware that you could get varies sizes for O2's headband.


----------



## jp11801

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I'd stick with the Fisher and experiment with tube rolling and interconnects. Keep in mind that STAX in general are extremely responsive to changes upstream. The wrong ICs can at times seem to literally make or break the setup._

 

well my cables are top notch neotec solid core wire made by our resident cable maker
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the fisher advice I am really enjoying this set up. Now it's time for new ear pads from audio cubes.


----------



## slwiser

The KGSS is coming, the KGSS is coming; it is at my PO today. I will get it most likely Monday or Tuesday.

 The SR-007MkII is coming as well and should be here maybe by the end of this week.


----------



## tako_tsubo

I have a srm 717 coming...but it is only set for the japanese 100v. I can get a transformer like they sell with the current amps, but I recall after reading the whole old and new Stax threads over the past month a way to change the wires in the back. It even had pictures...so if anyone can point to that part of the thread it would save me alot of time...or maybe even go over the changes again would be appreciated.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a srm 717 coming...but it is only set for the japanese 100v. I can get a transformer like they sell with the current amps, but I recall after reading the whole old and new Stax threads over the past month a way to change the wires in the back. It even had pictures...so if anyone can point to that part of the thread it would save me alot of time...or maybe even go over the changes again would be appreciated._

 

Useful?
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...ml#post3902577


----------



## tako_tsubo

hmm, nice try but didn't see anything there to help me...
 but back in 2007 those lambda pro's sure did go for a premium.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a srm 717 coming...but it is only set for the japanese 100v. I can get a transformer like they sell with the current amps, but I recall after reading the whole old and new Stax threads over the past month a way to change the wires in the back. It even had pictures...so if anyone can point to that part of the thread it would save me alot of time...or maybe even go over the changes again would be appreciated._

 

There are a few different versions of the 717 but changing the voltage will involve either changing some jumpers or desoldering some connections. Open up your amp and take a peek inside and we can work from there.


----------



## Khanate

Hi,

 I thought this would be the perfect place to ask this question:

 I am purchasing a Stax SRD-6SB & SR-Gamma combination... I'm wondering what do I need to be able to listen to music from a laptop? I'm assuming a DAC and an amp, but I heard it's a speaker amplifier I need.... Hence I am lost as I have not ever read anything about these. Is there any cheap options I could look at? Sub-150-200 would be best as I am on a tight budget (actually... non-existant!).

 Thanks a lot,

 Khanate


----------



## tako_tsubo

thanks spritzer...I'll take some pics after it arrives and if ok by you pm you, unless some other folks would be interested in the conversion.


----------



## slwiser

Consider a Nuforce Icon. It has a USB interface and is good for 12 watts speaker output shown below with a SRD-7 Pro and SR-Gamma Pro. The Icon shown below can be ordered from Amazon for 199$.







  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I thought this would be the perfect place to ask this question:

 I am purchasing a Stax SRD-6SB & SR-Gamma combination... I'm wondering what do I need to be able to listen to music from a laptop? I'm assuming a DAC and an amp, but I heard it's a speaker amplifier I need.... Hence I am lost as I have not ever read anything about these. Is there any cheap options I could look at? Sub-150-200 would be best as I am on a tight budget (actually... non-existant!).

 Thanks a lot,

 Khanate_


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I thought this would be the perfect place to ask this question:

 I am purchasing a Stax SRD-6SB & SR-Gamma combination... I'm wondering what do I need to be able to listen to music from a laptop? I'm assuming a DAC and an amp, but I heard it's a speaker amplifier I need.... Hence I am lost as I have not ever read anything about these. Is there any cheap options I could look at? Sub-150-200 would be best as I am on a tight budget (actually... non-existant!).

 Thanks a lot,

 Khanate_

 

You can get a pretty good vintage amp for that price. I use a NAD 3155 to drive Gammas and a SRD-7. I'm listening to it now. The NAD also makes a pretty good headphone amp too.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I thought this would be the perfect place to ask this question:

 I am purchasing a Stax SRD-6SB & SR-Gamma combination... I'm wondering what do I need to be able to listen to music from a laptop? I'm assuming a DAC and an amp, but I heard it's a speaker amplifier I need.... Hence I am lost as I have not ever read anything about these. Is there any cheap options I could look at? Sub-150-200 would be best as I am on a tight budget (actually... non-existant!).

 Thanks a lot,

 Khanate_

 

This would work just fine: Gen 2 T-Amp and will sound nice with small speakers as well.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you get a longer and more elastic band? I wasn't aware that you could get varies sizes for O2's headband._

 

I have found a perfect one here:

Gummiband sehr kraeftig, schwarz 2m X 20 mm bei eBay.de: Naehen (endet 27.07.08 10:22:22 MESZ)

 However, almost any highly flexible 20 mm black elastic textile band will do. The exchange is very simple. All you need is a suitable Phillips-tip screwdriver, a pair of scissors, and some glue to fix the new band. I made it about 35 mm longer than the original. If the quality and the optics of the new band are good the result will be virtually indistinguishable.

 Cheers,
 chi2


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks spritzer...I'll take some pics after it arrives and if ok by you pm you, unless some other folks would be interested in the conversion._

 

PM is great so that I don't miss the post.


----------



## Khanate

While buying a NAD xxxx could be tempting (looked at price) I would also need a DAC which would obliterate my budget sadly...

 I was looking at the nuforce icon and they seem to be 250 on amazong... I'll post a WTB and wait a bit I guess?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I thought this would be the perfect place to ask this question:

 I am purchasing a Stax SRD-6SB & SR-Gamma combination... I'm wondering what do I need to be able to listen to music from a laptop? I'm assuming a DAC and an amp, but I heard it's a speaker amplifier I need.... Hence I am lost as I have not ever read anything about these. Is there any cheap options I could look at? Sub-150-200 would be best as I am on a tight budget (actually... non-existant!).

 Thanks a lot,

 Khanate_

 

Buy a Nuforce Icon or Travagans Green - both are small headphone amps with USB DAC that have speaker outputs (Travagans 5 watts, Nuforce 12 watts). You can search for posts by HeadphoneAddict with the word "Green" or the word "Nuforce" in them and get plenty of info.

 The Nuforce has three inputs - USB, RCA and 1/8", with three outputs - Speaker, 1/8" pre-amp and 1/8" headphone. The Green has one input - USB, and four outputs - 1/8" headphone, speaker, optical digital, and coax digital. I use the Nuforce Icon to drive my SRD-7 Pro and HE60 or Lambda Signature, and the Green with SRD-7 SB to drive Sr-Lambda and SR-5NG gold edition.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While buying a NAD xxxx could be tempting (looked at price) I would also need a DAC which would obliterate my budget sadly...

 I was looking at the nuforce icon and they seem to be 250 on amazong... I'll post a WTB and wait a bit I guess?_

 

The silver version of the Nuforce was $199 last I checked. The Travagans Green is also close to the $200 mark.


----------



## oicdn

Looking to get a wallwart for the baby stax (SRM-001). Anybody know the barrel connector size?

 The power reqs are on the amp itself, but not the barrel size


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks spritzer...I'll take some pics after it arrives and if ok by you pm you, unless some other folks would be interested in the conversion._

 

I have a 717 that I converted the line voltage. If your 717 has a small circuit board inside (near the back of the unit behind the transformer) that has metal tube jumbers (that are about the size of a fuse) I have a PDF file that I can send you for the different setting for different voltages. PM me with your email address and I will send you the PDF file. Your going to love the 717.


----------



## Khanate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The silver version of the Nuforce was $199 last I checked. The Travagans Green is also close to the $200 mark._

 

Amazon.com: NuForce Icon (Integrated Desktop Audio Amplifier, Silver Color): Electronics

 249$ now!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking to get a wallwart for the baby stax (SRM-001). Anybody know the barrel connector size?

 The power reqs are on the amp itself, but not the barrel size 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I have a vernier caliper that I don't know how to read to the 1/10mm properly, but to my eye it says the barrel out diameter is about 4.1mm, and the hole in the center is about 2mm. The Radio Shack yellow tip with those dimensions fits and works.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking to get a wallwart for the baby stax (SRM-001). Anybody know the barrel connector size?

 The power reqs are on the amp itself, but not the barrel size 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't know the exact measurement but it;s the same as a PSP's if that helps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think this is the tip "B" RadioShack.com - Power & Batteries: Home & office power: AC (Home) adapters: Adaptaplug B

 I can confirm that my PSP plug also fits the SR-001 Mk2 and Mk1


----------



## slwiser

My KGSS is in the house...Now I just need the SR-007MkII that is in shippment.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My KGSS is in the house...Now I just need the SR-007MkII that is in shippment.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Normally, the fireplace should be the centerpiece of a home, but in this case, your STAX system is


----------



## moonboy403

Chance for somebody to score a Stax setup


----------



## oicdn

^ lol thanks for killing all opportunity to get those cheap (not speaking for myself).


----------



## moonboy403

They usually go between $200-$300 anyway.


----------



## Tachikoma

$300 is a tad high, to be honest. The going rate for a normal bias Gamma is more like $150~


----------



## smeggy

Yeah, $300 is asking way too much for a bog standard Gamma with SRD-6. They're nice, not $300 nice.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oicdn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ lol thanks for killing all opportunity to get those cheap (not speaking for myself)._

 

Because posting that in the _Stax thread_ will expose it to people who wouldn't otherwise check ebay for Stax deals? I see no harm done.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 717 that I converted the line voltage. If your 717 has a small circuit board inside (near the back of the unit behind the transformer) that has metal tube jumbers (that are about the size of a fuse) I have a PDF file that I can send you for the different setting for different voltages. PM me with your email address and I will send you the PDF file. Your going to love the 717._

 

thanks audiod, very good of you! I don't expect the 717 for a week or so, will pm you! Have the 303 and Lambda pro to try out, and like slwiser waiting for a 007.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, $300 is asking way too much for a bog standard Gamma with SRD-6. They're nice, not $300 nice._

 

yeah, I would be more inclined to wait for a normal bias Lambda/srd combo


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have found a perfect one here:

Gummiband sehr kraeftig, schwarz 2m X 20 mm bei eBay.de: Naehen (endet 27.07.08 10:22:22 MESZ)_

 

Thanks for the link! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 This might come handy some day, so I just ordered two lengths.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My KGSS is in the house...Now I just need the SR-007MkII that is in shippment.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations!
 ..hopefully your SR-007MK2 arrive any day.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Chance for somebody to score a Stax setup_

 

Quite nice!
 Especially if it ends up well below $300 (which it a bit high imo).


----------



## aaron313

I'm officially a member of Team Stax now, as I bought a SRS-3050A system. I had to spend some extended time with an electrostat system before dropping $6.5k on the BHSE + O2. (Geez, that actually is a lot of money, come to think of it.)


----------



## moonboy403

Man!...I'm still waiting for my SR-Lambda to arrive! 4 more days!!!! GRRRR!!


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm officially a member of Team Stax now, as I bought a SRS-3050A system. I had to *spend some extended time *with an electrostat system before dropping $6.5k on the BHSE + O2. (Geez, that actually is a lot of money, come to think of it.)_

 

Amen. Though according to your sig, fall is just around the corner so you have about 3 months to prepare your head and wallet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is there such a thing in head-fi that makes people hate the electrostats? Other than the usual convenience problems 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One thing I can pick up from all these impressions is that the 'stats are more "transparent" than their dynamic counterparts; even the open ones. Does that mean they won't be very good with bass dependent stuff --> i.e. rock, trance and slices of modern 'pop'?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing I can pick up from all these impressions is that the 'stats are more "transparent" than their dynamic counterparts; even the open ones. Does that mean they won't be very good with bass dependent stuff --> i.e. rock, trance and slices of modern 'pop'?_

 

You will hear bass with no overhang or extra harmonics so it's much purer and you are able to pick it apart to hear every note. Most can reach down to 20Hz so there is plenty of bass but it isn't overwhelming.


----------



## J-Pak

I listen to mostly rock and jazz and the SR-007 MK1 is easily the best headphone I've heard for this music. 

 I would say the Koss ESP/950 (or maybe L3000) is second, but both lack the transparency of the SR-007 MK1.


----------



## Kane-DK

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS is coming, the KGSS is coming; it is at my PO today. I will get it most likely Monday or Tuesday.

 The SR-007MkII is coming as well and should be here maybe by the end of this week._

 

Can I ask you when you ordered the KGSS? (Assuming it is a Headamp build KGSS)


----------



## J-Pak

Oh wow I had these for a couple of weeks and forgot to post pictures


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amen. *Though according to your sig, fall is just around the corner so you have about 3 months to prepare your head and wallet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*

 Is there such a thing in head-fi that makes people hate the electrostats? Other than the usual convenience problems 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One thing I can pick up from all these impressions is that the 'stats are more "transparent" than their dynamic counterparts; even the open ones. Does that mean they won't be very good with bass dependent stuff --> i.e. rock, trance and slices of modern 'pop'?_

 

Ugh... talk about wallet damage. Well, I have *calculates quickly* $3000 in equipment that I could sell quickly if need be. However, I've taken on a couple extra jobs to subsidize my audio hobby, so I might not have to sell much, if any, stuff (Anybody need an academic tutor in the Berkeley area? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). I think buying the 303 system was a wise move because I can always sell the amp and use the BHSE with the 303, and buy the O2 later.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kane-DK* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I ask you when you ordered the KGSS? (Assuming it is a Headamp build KGSS)_

 

I got it on the use market. It is about two and a half years old.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh wow I had these for a couple of weeks and forgot to post pictures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I see your pics and raise these


----------



## Duggeh

Faust.

 Dude.

 Sick.

 Nice.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Faust.

 Dude.

 Sick.

 Nice.




_

 

Indeed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I since this pic I also got myself this cool ericj made Stax-2-ESP950 adapter.






 So now my ESP950 sounds even better.


----------



## milkpowder

woah!


----------



## moonboy403

Wow. How much did you spend on all of those?!


----------



## Duggeh

Money is irrelivent, and rude as a topic of enquiry.


 One should be asking which, of those in that fabulous stack, Faust would be least willing to part with......





 From what I have read and heard, I think that I personally would be torn berween the Sigma and the ESP950 Koss. I think that in the event of a tie-break the winner being the Sigma because it score bonus ugly points.


----------



## The Monkey

I really love that adapter that ericj made. It looks great with your rig.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I have read and heard, I think that I personally would be torn berween the Sigma and the ESP950 Koss. I think that in the event of a tie-break the winner being the Sigma because it score bonus ugly points._

 

Sigma would be the hardest to let go and for sentimental reasons QP85 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Unfortunately for my finances I am not done with new acquisitions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I need to try a few more phones and after that I have a feeling I will have a small scale sell off. I see SR-007 in my future, but that will require some selling and deal searching. 

 So far I sold my second YH-1, Float II, QP70 & 15, Magnavox 1A9217, AKG K340, AKG K280 and SR-40. It was SR-40 that started the Stax escapade that resulted in SR-Lambda, SR-303, SR-Gamma, SR-Sigma, ESP950 and SR-001. I am in the process of selling my SR-Gamma and getting Nova Signature. I am not even going to mentioned the dynamic and ortho phones. It's curse I tell you.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really love that adapter that ericj made. It looks great with your rig._

 

Thanks man. He did a great job, it's functionally and esthetically very pleasing.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow. How much did you spend on all of those?!_

 

Too much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't even want to count.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really love that adapter that ericj made. It looks great with your rig._

 

Thanks, monkey-man. It was an experiment, and i'm pretty happy with how it turned out. 

 I'm willing to make more of them, I'm just unsure what to charge for them. The parts add up to something like $15, including the extension cord from koss, but there's a fair amount of labor involved because the flange of the WPI stax plug has to be carved off, and the copper parts look like hell straight from the hardware store. 

 I'm not greedy by nature. Interested parties should make me an offer. 

 A good friend of mine worked in an art bronze foundry for several months, and knows quite a bit about patina chemistry, so some fairly artistic colorings are available for the handle, if you're not into the polished look, or just matte black paint. No idea what the added cost there would be. 

 To give you an idea of the scale of what you could spend on this cable, apuresound makes some stax-to-koss cables, and charges iirc $140 each for them - it looks like he starts with a WPI plug and then replaces the hollow steel pins with milled silver pins, probably at considerable cost. It also looks like he makes the handle out of an N-connector, which fits around the original flange on the WPI plug, and then covers it with heatshrink - this means it's significantly larger in diameter than mine, and might not seat fully in recessed stax sockets -- note the recessed sockets on the amp f2d has his adapter cable plugged into.


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see your pics and raise these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













_

 

HOoooLLLy $%^* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You're going down a dark path my man


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sigma would be the hardest to let go and for sentimental reasons QP85 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sentimentality is why I still have the Float 2, I havent listened to them whatsoever since I finished the Orthodome I.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Unfortunately for my finances I am not done with new acquisitions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I need to try a few more phones and after that I have a feeling I will have a small scale sell off. I see SR-007 in my future, but that will require some selling and deal searching._

 

You see Ergo AMT in your future. Break with the norm, dew eet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So far I sold my second YH-1, Float II, QP70 & 15, Magnavox 1A9217, AKG K340, AKG K280 and SR-40. It was SR-40 that started the Stax escapade that resulted in SR-Lambda, SR-303, SR-Gamma, SR-Sigma, ESP950 and SR-001. I am in the process of selling my SR-Gamma and getting Nova Signature. I am not even going to mentioned the dynamic and ortho phones. It's curse I tell you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Curse maybe, learnign curve maybe. Go through the patterns and find what it is you're looking for. If I could pick one headphone at the minute it'd be the O2. But I still firmly believe that with more attention, the AMT and the H2 can stand alongside.

 Problem for me is the Quad ESL57 budgeting eating into the AMT/H2 path.

 10-12 weeks. Fingers Crossed. Then I can let speaker-fi be.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_10-12 weeks. Fingers Crossed. Then I can let speaker-fi be._

 

I have been set with my Apogees for about 10 year now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But something bad happened a few days ago. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My kid stock his fingers in one of the ribbons 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not damaged but it's a bit bend cosmetically and now I need to find something he can't damage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also have SAP Trio  so I am set for Jazz, but I still need something for rock and electronic music. I am thinking KEF 107





 So as you can see I have been in a lot of flux only on headphone front


----------



## tako_tsubo

Faust2D;4433553 said:
			
		

> My kid stock his fingers in one of the ribbons
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
 My kid stock his fingers in one of the ribbons 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's not damaged but it's a bit bend cosmetically and now I need to find something he can't damage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gee, I hope your kid's fingers are okay?!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

_

 

Well yeah, the kid is fine. I had a little talk with him but at 2 years old he does not really understand what he did. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 He just wanted the music to play


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'll try to get some pics in the next couple of days! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It will include:

 TWO SR-Lambda with TWO SRD-X 
 SR-Lambda Signature with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro
 SR-003 with Nuforce Icon with SRD-7 Pro
 SR-5NB Gold Edition with Travagans Red with SRD-7 SB 
 SR-001 Mk1 Audiocats modded with Mk2 phones
 SR-001 Mk2 with Mk1 phones (backup)
 Senn HE60 with Senn HEV70
 Spare SRD-5

 8 complete sets of stats and amps/drivers


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I didn't post this until the auction was over - I watched/lurked, and looks like Scompton head-fier won it: Stax SR-3 Headphones SRD-5 Adapter Earspeakers Vintage - eBay (item 320269808015 end time Jul-06-08 22:10:37 PDT)


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll try to get some pics in the next couple of days! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It will include:

 TWO SR-Lambda with TWO SRD-X 
 SR-Lambda Signature with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro
 SR-003 with Nuforce Icon with SRD-7 Pro
 SR-5NB Gold Edition with Travagans Red with SRD-7 SB 
 SR-001 Mk1 Audiocats modded with Mk2 phones
 SR-001 Mk2 with Mk1 phones (backup)
 Senn HE60 with Senn HEV70
 Spare SRD-5

 8 complete sets of stats and amps/drivers_

 

I sense you have a Stax setup in every bathroom.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Oh wow I had these for a couple of weeks and forgot to post pictures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 

I see your pics and raise these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









http://www.faust3d.com/Forum/pics/He...TUP/ESP950.jpg_

 

..and I raise you both (or perhaps not).


----------



## aaron313

I will remember this poker theme for use several months from now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## J-Pak

I left the king of electrostats out of my picture so the Koss wouldn't be embarrassed


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see your pics and raise these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

must resist... buying more headphones...

 i have been listening to the ergo2 exclusively for some weeks now, as it seems the stars are not aligned; removing all chances of finding a replacement cable for my sigmas.
 the floats have also been demoted, as they keep charging me up with electricity, making computer usage rather painfull


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't post this until the auction was over - I watched/lurked, and looks like Scompton head-fier won it: Stax SR-3 Headphones SRD-5 Adapter Earspeakers Vintage - eBay (item 320269808015 end time Jul-06-08 22:10:37 PDT)_

 

I did win them. Spritzer talked them up a bit and I have the Magnavox clone. I'm interested in seeing how the clone compares to the original. I'm sure I'll sell the clone.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did win them. Spritzer talked them up a bit and I have the Magnavox clone. I'm interested in seeing how the clone compares to the original. I'm sure I'll sell the clone._

 

Cool. Let us know how they compare to Magnavox.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saoudad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding Voltage input to a 717 and 007t I can clarify that:

 The power supply transformer has 7 tap on the input side which are
 Yellow= common (winding 1)
 (1)White=same as yellow (winding 1)
 (2)Green=100v tap (winding 1)
 (3)Purple=120v tap (winding 1)
 (4)Black=common (winding 2)
 (5)Brown=100v (winding 2)
 (6)Blue=120v (winding 2)

 Six jumper bar for voltage change number 1 thru 6
 1 thru 4 are to select:1=100v 2=120v 3=100v 4=120v 5=220/240 6=100v/120v
 So for 100v you install one bar each for 1,3,6.
 For 120v you install one bar each for 2,4,6.
 For 220v/240v you install on bar each 3,5._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are a few different versions of the 717 but changing the voltage will involve either changing some jumpers or desoldering some connections. Open up your amp and take a peek inside and we can work from there._

 

Hi,

 I have received today an SRM-717 - DOA 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It may have been dropped on its way from Japan to Switzerland as one edge on the back has a dent. All three fuses are intact which is a pity as this would have been my prefered cause/explanation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Upon further examination I realized that only one jumper was placed on the small board attached to the back of the amp. A second jumper was loosely laying around on the floor. Maybe this explains the (dead) state of the amp? The seller from Japan states to have set the jumpers to 240V. Right now the single jumper is in position 2 (blue wire). In a thread back in 2006 (please see above), however, the jumper positions for 240V were quite different (3,5). Now, there seem to exist several versions of the 717. I would highly appreciate if any of you 717 aficionados would be so kind to shed some light on this. The colors of the wires in the different positions are as follows:

 Pos. 1: light green
 Pos. 2: blue
 Pos. 3: brown
 Pos. 4: purple
 Pos. 5: none?
 Pos. 6: white

 Any help would be highly appreciated! Thanks, chi2


----------



## Khanate

I'm still looking for the NuForce Icon... does anyone know anywhere else but here and audiogon that I could look for it?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Khanate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still looking for the NuForce Icon... does anyone know anywhere else but here and audiogon that I could look for it?_

 

I would get a Sonic Impact T-amp instead. For about $70 you can get a nice amp that would drive Gammas without any issues.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I have received today an SRM-717 - DOA 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It may have been dropped on its way from Japan to Switzerland as one edge on the back has a dent. All three fuses are intact which is a pity as this would have been my prefered cause/explanation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Upon further examination I realized that only one jumper was placed on the small board attached to the back of the amp. A second jumper was loosely laying around on the floor. Maybe this explains the (dead) state of the amp? The seller from Japan states to have set the jumpers to 240V. Right now the single jumper is in position 2 (blue wire). In a thread back in 2006 (please see above), however, the jumper positions for 240V were quite different (3,5). Now, there seem to exist several versions of the 717. I would highly appreciate if any of you 717 aficionados would be so kind to shed some light on this. The colors of the wires in the different positions are as follows:

 Pos. 1: light green
 Pos. 2: blue
 Pos. 3: brown
 Pos. 4: purple
 Pos. 5: none?
 Pos. 6: white

 Any help would be highly appreciated! Thanks, chi2_

 

Ouch! I'll get photos of my SRM-717's internals for you in a bit.


----------



## spritzer

Pins or jumpers 3 and 5 are for 220v operation but 2 and 5 are for 240v which I normally use for amps headed to Europe. The electricity passes through those connections so if they aren't functioning the amp will not turn on.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch! I'll get photos of my SRM-717's internals for you in a bit._

 

Tachikoma, thanks for the offer. This would be great!

 chi2 (sitting eagerly in front of his opened up 717 and his opened up Leffe Vielle Cuvee – badly needed for consolation & sedation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pins or jumpers 3 and 5 are for 220v operation but 2 and 5 are for 240v which I normally use for amps headed to Europe. The electricity passes through those connections so if they aren't functioning the amp will not turn on._

 

717 reanimated and brought back to life!!

 Thanks Spritzer for sharing your simply amazing expertise!! And thanks Tachikoma! Head-fi is such a great place!


----------



## tako_tsubo

I hope my srm 717 lands softly...


----------



## slwiser

My used KGSS was well packed and landed oh so softly....I am really enjoying my KGSS with the Black Gate pipes coming out the top.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Reminds me of those four smokestacks on Pink Floyd's "Animals"


----------



## SACD-Man

You are really tempting me to buy....

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My used KGSS was well packed and landed oh so softly....I am really enjoying my KGSS with the Black Gate pipes coming out the top._


----------



## Khanate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would get a Sonic Impact T-amp instead. For about $70 you can get a nice amp that would drive Gammas without any issues._

 

That unit does look pretty good and I might order it... What DAC should I get to go along? A emu-0202?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_717 reanimated and brought back to life!!

 Thanks Spritzer for sharing your simply amazing expertise!! And thanks Tachikoma! Head-fi is such a great place!_

 

.....so......impressions of the SRM 717 Chi2???
 I'm still loving it (the Studer CD player is back from it's holiday in your country and feeling better than ever) and enjoying feeding it a balanced signal from the Apogee mini-DAC. Great amp.


----------



## fpsoft1

After some years mumbling, i'm evaluating to buy a srs3050 system from PriceJapan. Actually i own a Sennheiser HD600 drived by a T-Amp (no comments, please be kind). Do you think SRS3050 is a good upgrade? I have never heard an electrostatic, the nearest shop is at 400 km from here. I love high frequencies and transparency, at what i have read the Stax are ok about this. Please convince me to buy the SRS3050. Thanks.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After some years mumbling, i'm evaluating to buy a srs3050 system from PriceJapan. Actually i own a Sennheiser HD600 drived by a T-Amp (no comments, please be kind). Do you think SRS3050 is a good upgrade? I have never heard an electrostatic, the nearest shop is at 400 km from here. I love high frequencies and transparency, at what i have read the Stax are ok about this. Please convince me to buy the SRS3050. Thanks._

 

Give me a week, and I will compare the 3050A to the HD650.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_.....so......impressions of the SRM 717 Chi2???
 I'm still loving it (the Studer CD player is back from it's holiday in your country and feeling better than ever) and enjoying feeding it a balanced signal from the Apogee mini-DAC. Great amp._

 

John,

 Great to hear you enjoy one of the highlights of Swiss engineering!

 With regard to the 717 I haven't found enough time yet for extended listening to my dearest and best known recordings. I must say, however, that the first impression with it driving my O2II was a bit underwhelming. After having gone thru SRM-1 MKII and SRM-1T (which I still both have) I had high hopes that the 717 would be able to lift away the veil hanging over female voices like the one of Kari Bremnes, Sara K. or Patricia Barber. Many do state that the O2 and O2II sound "dark" when not properly driven. Yes the highs are not as brillantly sparkling as on a Lambda Signature. But I don't have any problem with the highs of the O2 as its detail and resolution are great. My problem is with the upper mids where I hear and "feel" a nuisant huskyness and veil covering especially the female voices. If I listen to the O2 for hours I get used to it and enjoy it quite much. But when changing back to the Lambda Sig there is a striking feeling of liberation, clarity, air, and ease! I really had hoped the 717 to set free the full potential of the O2. After the first half a dozen of hours spent with it I find it to be somewhat more refined than the 1MKII and a bit punchier than the still amazingly good T1. Still, the 717 wasn't able to lift the veil and "uncover" the voices. So I may still be in the business for a KGBH (no money for the SE, though) or the planned new KGSS with the sexier form factor and the single attenuator – *IF* they are able to make the O2 what I'm hoping it to be. Of course I will give the 717 much more time. Who knows, there may still be a turnaround 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Best regards, chi2


----------



## progo

Hmm, someone's selling an SRM-T1S + Lambda Nova Signature set at €850 eur ($1333 USD) at local auction site. That's a lot of dough, would it be worth it?  

 There was an enjoyable review at Stereophile but even then I'm not sure. Oh man, what should I do?


----------



## moonboy403

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Give me a week, and I will compare the 3050A to the HD650._

 

Your stax rig came yet?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John,

 Great to hear you enjoy one of the highlights of Swiss engineering!

 With regard to the 717 I haven't found enough time yet for extended listening to my dearest and best known recordings. I must say, however, that the first impression with it driving my O2II was a bit underwhelming. After having gone thru SRM-1 MKII and SRM-1T (which I still both have) I had high hopes that the 717 would be able to lift away the veil hanging over female voices like the one of Kari Bremnes, Sara K. or Patricia Barber. Many do state that the O2 and O2II sound "dark" when not properly driven. Yes the highs are not as brillantly sparkling as on a Lambda Signature. But I don't have any problem with the highs of the O2 as its detail and resolution are great. My problem is with the upper mids where I hear and "feel" a nuisant huskyness and veil covering especially the female voices. If I listen to the O2 for hours I get used to it and enjoy it quite much. But when changing back to the Lambda Sig there is a striking feeling of liberation, clarity, air, and ease! I really had hoped the 717 to set free the full potential of the O2. After the first half a dozen of hours spent with it I find it to be somewhat more refined than the 1MKII and a bit punchier than the still amazingly good T1. Still, the 717 wasn't able to lift the veil and "uncover" the voices. So I may still be in the business for a KGBH (no money for the SE, though) or the planned new KGSS with the sexier form factor and the single attenuator – *IF* they are able to make the O2 what I'm hoping it to be. Of course I will give the 717 much more time. Who knows, there may still be a turnaround 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best regards, chi2_

 

I have the same amps as you do. The problem is not the 717, it's the O2II. I have been struggling with this problem since I got them. I’m on my second set. My original O2 with the 717, 007t, T1 or SRM-1mk2 pro sound GREAT. The midrange is the best there is. My Lambda’s take a back seat. Stax claims that the new O2II needs at least 200 hours break-in (If yours are new they will sound horrible). Mine have way over 200 hours on them and I still MUCH prefer the 02. Others on this site have had the same findings including Birgir. You may want to take a listen to a O2 and hear for yourself. I will probably be selling my O2II and look for a backup O2.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, someone's selling an SRM-T1S + Lambda Nova Signature set at €850 eur ($1333 USD) at local auction site. That's a lot of dough, would it be worth it?  
 (_

 

That's expensive.
  Quote:


 Oh man, what should I do? 
 

Wait for a better deal.
 Patience is a virtue .........


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, someone's selling an SRM-T1S + Lambda Nova Signature set at €850 eur ($1333 USD) at local auction site. That's a lot of dough, would it be worth it?  

 There was an enjoyable review at Stereophile but even then I'm not sure. Oh man, what should I do? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

On Audiogon there is such a combo (still for sale?) for USD 1150.- 

AudiogoN ForSale: Stax Pro Lambda Nova Sig

 While this seems an adequate to good price, USD 1333.- is a bit steep. However, if Funland is in Europe (Finland? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) you will be well aware that Stax phones tend to be more expensive here.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the same amps as you do. The problem is not the 717, it's the O2II. I have been struggling with this problem since I got them. I’m on my second set. My original O2 with the 717, 007t, T1 or SRM-1mk2 pro sound GREAT. The midrange is the best there is. My Lambda’s take a back seat. Stax claims that the new O2II needs at least 200 hours break-in (If yours are new they will sound horrible). Mine have way over 200 hours on them and I still MUCH prefer the 02. Others on this site have had the same findings including Birgir. You may want to take a listen to a O2 and hear for yourself. I will probably be selling my O2II and look for a backup O2._

 

Thanks for the input - however sad it is. My O2 MK II has around 120 hours of usage. Before purchasing it I tried to find all the relevant information. Stax declared at that time that only the cable has been changed. What exactly is the culprit for the difference to the O2 (MK I)?


----------



## progo

The STAXes cost pretty much new around here. The €850 is not much in that manner. It looks so desirable though. But for that I should recover certain depts. :|


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the input - however sad it is. My O2 MK II has around 120 hours of usage. Before purchasing it I tried to find all the relevant information. Stax declared at that time that only the cable has been changed. What exactly is the culprit for the difference to the O2 (MK I)?_

 

The earpads are also new, so is the elastic band and the bottom of the headpad and they added a port to get rid of the "fart". The port completely alters the bass response and the slightly altered housing makes them a bit more forward sounding.


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[Shameless plug]I have a FS thread for the lambda nova sig [/shameless plug]_

 

Nice try, but I'd certainly take my first buy as a set, but thanks. Good luck with your sales. :=)


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ [...] The port completely alters the bass response and the slightly altered housing makes them a bit more forward sounding._

 

Thanks for the complete list of changes in the design, spritzer. Still, your description of the sound characteristics doesn't really fit my issues with the O2 II; I love the bass and wouldn't mind a more forward presentation. What I hear is, on the contrary, a presentation somewhat lacking in liveliness and presence. I guess this is due to an underrepresentation of the frequencies between, say, 1 to 4 kilohertz. Even the 717 seems to be unable to solve this problem convincingly. Audiod, can you confirm this being a specific difference between your O2 and O2 II?


----------



## oicdn

Got my riggy complete. Now it's not using some ghetto rigged ipod dock to right angle adapter.






 Nice and low profile. Nothing obtrusive, and the dock sounds great. Good stuff, and can't wait to move on to the big boys for home. But where to start? So I'm not hungry literally 1 month down the line?


----------



## spritzer

Seeing double or no? One stock SR-Omega and the other fitted with SR-007A drivers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the complete list of changes in the design, spritzer. Still, your description of the sound characteristics doesn't really fit my issues with the O2 II; I love the bass and wouldn't mind a more forward presentation. What I hear is, on the contrary, a presentation somewhat lacking in liveliness and presence. I guess this is due to an underrepresentation of the frequencies between, say, 1 to 4 kilohertz. Even the 717 seems to be unable to solve this problem convincingly. Audiod, can you confirm this being a specific difference between your O2 and O2 II?_

 

This could be a source or cable issue as this isn't something I have encountered. To say that the Omegas are source and cable sensitive is a massive understatement.


----------



## bjarnetv

how does the omega with 007A drivers compare to the real 007a?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how does the omega with 007A drivers compare to the real 007a?_

 

Since I just got them a few hours ago it's way too early for any solid impressions. One thing to note is that Stax doesn't do the conversion fully to my liking so I had to mod this set a bit.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... Stax claims that the new O2II needs at least 200 hours break-in ..._

 

From STAX USA told me that O2 Mk2 reach their full potential after 300-500 hours


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From the STAX USA told me that they reach their full potential after 300-500 hours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Considering that there is minimal run in on electrostatic drivers then I guess Yama's have lost what little sense they had...


----------



## brat

It may be a very amateur question but... what will happen if the standart bias voltage (580V) of my SRM-727II is raised?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It may be a very amateur question but... what will happen if the standart bias voltage (580V) of my SRM-727II is raised?_

 

Nothing if the phones aren't plugged in... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bias voltage is a compromise between a few factors such as the D/S gap, stator insulation and drive voltages. If you raise the bias voltage then the drivers have more potential (i.e. can be louder and move more air) but you risk arcing them. Higher bias means that the drivers need to be redesigned. 

 When Stax designed the SR-Omega above then the experimented with 1100v bias but dropped it due to the issues it presents as that is speaker territory. You should read up on the fundamental basics behind electrostatic forces to understand it better.


----------



## fpsoft1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Give me a week, and I will compare the 3050A to the HD650._

 

I'm in standby, waiting for your news.


----------



## Tachikoma

Well, the SR-5 and a SRD-X in horrible condition was more than enough to wipe the floor with the HD650 + X-can V3 for me, so read into that what you will 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And why is the stax thread in the "high end" forum anyway? Its like saying all sennheisers and audio technicas are high end.


----------



## pdennis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And why is the stax thread in the "high end" forum anyway? Its like saying all sennheisers and audio technicas are high end._

 

Well, I think it depends on how you look at it. The Stax community is different from most of the rest of Head-fi in that many of us look seriously at vintage equipment.

 If you set vintage stuff aside, and just look at current products and prices, Stax prices are quite high, with only one system offering below $300 (and that's only if you buy it from Japan, with the attendant warranty complications).

 Stax basically doesn't make poor or cheap 'phones. Sennheiser and Audio-Technica both have much cheaper offerings that don't even need amps.


----------



## Edwood

I actually really liked the 4070's. It's just too bad they're so freakin heavy and the headband is pretty much not adjustable, so they droop on your ears. 

 -Ed


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I think it depends on how you look at it. The Stax community is different from most of the rest of Head-fi in that many of us look seriously at vintage equipment.

 If you set vintage stuff aside, and just look at current products and prices, Stax prices are quite high, with only one system offering below $300 (and that's only if you buy it from Japan, with the attendant warranty complications).

 Stax basically doesn't make poor or cheap 'phones. Sennheiser and Audio-Technica both have much cheaper offerings that don't even need amps._

 

I agree with this. If you take a concentrated sample of the most hardcore audiophiles on this site, the fraction who own Stax systems will be significantly above average.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the complete list of changes in the design, spritzer. Still, your description of the sound characteristics doesn't really fit my issues with the O2 II; I love the bass and wouldn't mind a more forward presentation. What I hear is, on the contrary, a presentation somewhat lacking in liveliness and presence. I guess this is due to an underrepresentation of the frequencies between, say, 1 to 4 kilohertz. Even the 717 seems to be unable to solve this problem convincingly. Audiod, can you confirm this being a specific difference between your O2 and O2 II?_

 

My biggest sound difference in the O2II compared to the O2 is a thickness in the midbass and lack of deep deep bass, a lack of fine low level detail, very top end not as airy and a overall opaque quality. I don't understand why the O2II needs such a long break-in and the O2 doesn’t. They don't excite.


----------



## tensaichen

What's the best way to get older Stax phone serviced/repaired? 

 I have a Lambda Nova Sig that's developed a bit of wire connection problem on the right side. Sometimes it loses all sound, and I'd have to "wiggle" it a bit to get it back.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tensaichen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best way to get older Stax phone serviced/repaired? 

 I have a Lambda Nova Sig that's developed a bit of wire connection problem on the right side. Sometimes it loses all sound, and I'd have to "wiggle" it a bit to get it back._

 

The best way is either to fix it yourself if you can, or get a trusted DIYer from here to fix it for you. Cable issues are relatively straightforward to deal with-- if you lost a driver or seriously broke the housing, you'd need another broken pair to turn it into one good one, there would be no other way.


----------



## GuyMe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you set vintage stuff aside, and just look at current products and prices, Stax prices are quite high, with only one system offering below $300 (and that's only if you buy it from Japan, with the attendant warranty complications)._

 

Why not count vintage stuff? From all I've read you can put together a great stat system for under $300 including amplification, no more expensive than a mid-fi dynamic rig. Seems a shame to hide this thread from the general head-fi populace and reinforce the notion that stats are all extremely expensive.


----------



## twestby

Could one of you long-time Stax aficionados comment on the merits of the SRM-007t/SR-007MK2 rig relative to the SRM-323II/SR-303 (SRS-3050II Classic)? Background: I'm considering replacing my nearly new Classic system with the former and am wondering whether, at triple the price, the new 007 system is a reasonable value. This would be a dedicated analog rig, with a Pro-Ject RM-10/Sumiko Blackbird source through a Bel Canto Phono3 headend. Musical taste runs the gamut. I have all the usual dynamic cans (GS100, K701, DT880, Senn 650), but feed them only with balanced SACD and digital (iTunes) input through a Head Room Balanced Max (Home) as they've been re-cabled w/ balanced Cardas/Fatpipe (the Grados run off a Zana Deux). I find all the balanced cans to have some sort of coloration/idiosyncrasy. Makes them especially fun for certain stuff but the Stax are my reference cans (though the Grados really are quite impressive) for vinyl. I'm a vinyl junkie from way back - I can remember paying less for a Phase Linear 400, new retail, than I just paid for a 45 RPM CCR boxed set. I'm still kicking myself for selling that unpeeled Velvet Underground LP in 1979 for $10 ... anyway, thoughts on the high-end Stax system appreciated. TIA


----------



## ericj

Hmm, just noticed that this thread has been moved. 

 I'm not sure I'm happy about the move. I figured "summit fi" was where we were going to stick the brilliant pebbles and Peter Belt's Quantum Rainbow Foil. 

 You know, so that people who can properly appreciate those things need not be distracted by the likes of me.


----------



## twestby

oops - didn't mean to insult all balanced cans there, just the dynamic ones. Poor editor. I've smacked her. Shan't happen again. TTFN


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The best way is either to fix it yourself if you can, or get a trusted DIYer from here to fix it for you. Cable issues are relatively straightforward to deal with-- if you lost a driver or seriously broke the housing, you'd need another broken pair to turn it into one good one, there would be no other way._

 

So it's not a good idea to go through Yama's service dept?

 I'm considering replacing the ear pads anyways, so maybe that can be a one stop fixall solution for me. Unless Yama's service dept is a horror to deal with?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[Shameless plug]I have a FS thread for the lambda nova sig [/shameless plug]_

 

Good luck with your sale!
 I have a couple of Stax'en in the FS forum as well.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_


 Seeing double or no? One stock SR-Omega and the other fitted with SR-007A drivers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh! So you ended up scoring the eBay pair I saw last week...
 Why am I not Surprised? Hmmm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, just noticed that this thread has been moved._

 

I just noticed as well.
 At least there are no longer a question if Stax is High-End or not... he he


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh! So you ended up scoring the eBay pair I saw last week...
 Why am I not Surprised? Hmmm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 It was the chance to work on SR-Ω drivers that sealed the deal for me. Talking about crazy driver design...


----------



## Duggeh

Pah, wasn't that crazy. Wait until you see what I've been cooking up that uses Strontium-90 for stators and asbestos for insulation.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 It was the chance to work on SR-Ω drivers that sealed the deal for me. Talking about crazy driver design... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Define "crazy" please! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As in don't-go-there, why-didn't-I-think-of-that, ... territory?

 I bet you have a lot of fun looking into the SR-Omega drivers. And that you perhaps even get the bad driver going again.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pah, wasn't that crazy. Wait until you see what I've been cooking up that uses Strontium-90 for stators and asbestos for insulation._

 

Send me a set if you want some beta testers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Define "crazy" please! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As in don't-go-there, why-didn't-I-think-of-that, ... territory?

 I bet you have a lot of fun looking into the SR-Omega drivers. And that you perhaps even get the bad driver going again._

 

First off the sheer size of the damn thing at 98mm across. The diaphragm is 90mm across or an area of 63.62cm2 mounted between two brass rings. The bias was connected directly to the brass rings. The stators are made out of a fine copper mesh, deposited with vapor gold and no insulation at all. The stators are a bit smaller then the diaphragm and fully open due to the nature of the material. The stators are encased in a resin based frame and supported by resin based cartwheels. Lead wires are soldered to the copper mesh. 

 One thing to note is that the drivers aren't held together in any way so they are just stacked up inside the housing. Besides the lack of glue, the drivers are very similar in structure to the SR-Lambda drivers of the era. I'll take some pics when I start to play with them.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off the sheer size of the damn thing at 98mm across. The diaphragm is 90mm across or an area of 63.62cm2 mounted between two brass rings. The bias was connected directly to the brass rings. The stators are made out of a fine copper mesh, deposited with vapor gold and no insulation at all. The stators are a bit smaller then the diaphragm and fully open due to the nature of the material. The stators are encased in a resin based frame and supported by resin based cartwheels. Lead wires are soldered to the copper mesh. 

 One thing to note is that the drivers aren't held together in any way so they are just stacked up inside the housing. Besides the lack of glue, the drivers are very similar in structure to the SR-Lambda drivers of the era. I'll take some pics when I start to play with them._

 

Interesting reading.
 No wonder they are such unstable beasts and may break down any day. At least "New Stax" made some major improvement for the SR-007.

 Some pictures would be nice indeed.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting reading.
 No wonder they are such unstable beasts and may break down any day. At least "New Stax" made some major improvement for the SR-007.

 Some pictures would be nice indeed._

 

The Sr-Ω and SR-007 drivers are night and day when it comes to reliability. The newer driver has is all, very stiff and well insulated stators plus a strong superstructure to transfer all unwanted vibrations away from the diaphragm.


----------



## Faust2D

Did Lambda Nova series share any design elements with Omega 1? They were released at about the same time, no?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, I have the loaner 3 year old Woo GES Prototype warming up right now. Wish me luck.


----------



## derekbmn

Glad to see it arrived and all is good. So what phones are you going to use with it first? 
 It sounded best after a good couple of hours of warm up.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I have the loaner 3 year old Woo GES Prototype warming up right now. Wish me luck._

 

Good luck!
 Hopefully it sucks you in, so you end up ordering one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 Going to use it with the HE60?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, I have been listening to the HE60 and SR-003 for the past 4 hours non-stop! I have not broken out the Lambda Signature yet, maybe tomorrow afternoon more likely. I have tried them with the following 4 amps:

 Woo GES prototype (not up to current specs), 
 SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, 
 HEV70 with stax adapter, and 
 Nuforce Icon with SRD-7 Pro.

 To be able to listen to all 4 running at the same time by simply plugging in phones, I have the Apogee mini-DAC XLR out via Neutrik 12" XLR interconnects to Jensens Transformers RCA adapter to anti-cables IC's to SRM-1 Mk2 Pro - then out of the pass through via silver plated copper IC ($60) to the Woo GES. Then I have the Apogee mini-DAC 1/8" line out via Jenna Labs 22g cryo Canare F12 mini-mini to Nuforce with SRD-7 and the Nuforce pre-amp line out via barqy silver plated mini>RCA to HEV70. I already had it set up this way, except that I unplugged the Woo WA6 and replaced it with the GES plugged into the WA6's IC's and Shunyata Viper power cord. I used my Marantza CD5001 via Coax out with a Synergistic Research Digital coax cable into the Apogee.

 I listened to Jack Johnson "On and On", FIM XRCD Jacintha "Autumn Leaves", FIM XRCD Tsuyoshi Yamamoto "Smooth Jazz Festival", FIM XRCD "Jazz at the Pawnshop", Diana Krall "Girl in the Other Room" and "This is K2 HD" sampler.

 I suspect that the way I have it set up is why the SRM-1 M2 Pro is almost as good as the Woo GES - that maybe the SRM-1 pass through could be holding the GES back slightly (either due to the SRM-1 or the silver plated interconnects which I think are very good but not as good and the anti-cables). Or, it may be the fact that this is a 3yr old prototype GES that is not up to todays build SQ. Or, it could be the fact that these headphones are not hard to drive, and that the better amp will only stand out when presented with a difficult phone to drive, like the SR-007 or 4070. I am just amazed at how well the SRM-1 stands up to the competition. Both amps are quite good sounding with the HE60 and SR-003, but with the HE60 the edge does go to the GES for being the most overall balanced so far. 

 The Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro has more PRaT and impact, but there is some missing micro-detail and ambience/air with it, making some music sound like it was done in a studio instead of a small venue. In contrast, the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is filled with air and ambience and detail, but doesn't have quite the punch of the SRD-7 pro. The Woo GES seems to bridge that gap and give more air and ambience than the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro, but more bass impact than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (but it doesn't quite match the bass of the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro). Soundstage in the GES is well focused in both width and depth, while the SRM-1 seems slightly less focused and smeared but taller.

 The GES tames the edge on the highs that I hear in the HE60 with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, while the SR-003 benefit from that edge and I might slightly like the SR-003 better with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The GES has slightly less air and ambience than the SRM-1, but I am fairly sure that if I run the anti-cables directly into the GES (and skip the SRM-1) that the sound will get a little more open. The Nuforce adds a little more forwards mids and intimacy as well as more bass, but the treble is closer to the GES and less than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. Switching to the HEV70, I get the forward mids and punchier bass of the Nuforce, but with slightly less airy treble and ambience than the GES or SRM-1 (but more than the Nuforce/SRD-7 pro).

 I have to take a break from this, and I'll post more when I change the cables around to skip the SRM-1 pass-through. Too bad the GES and WA6 don't have pass-through or pre-amp out.


----------



## webbie64

I look forward to your further postings on the GES and wonder if you can detail the tubes you are using with it (which can also be factors that hold it back if you are using the stock tubes that come with it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did Lambda Nova series share any design elements with Omega 1? They were released at about the same time, no?_

 

Only the cable but it's not the same color. I've never had to crack open a Nova driver but it looks like powder coated stators, very similar to the SR-404 units.


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Only the cable but it's not the same color. I've never had to crack open a Nova driver but it looks like powder coated stators, very similar to the SR-404 units._

 


 I'm gonna order some 404's tonight in spite of the fact that I still owe you a butt-load of money towards the Blue Hawaii.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any exciting news from Justin?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm gonna order some 404's tonight in spite of the fact that I still owe you a butt-load of money towards the Blue Hawaii.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any exciting news from Justin?_

 

Hold off for a few days. I have a line on some used sets...


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hold off for a few days. I have a line on some used sets..._

 


 I will, count me in for a set. Thanks.


----------



## derekbmn

Great Job Headphoneaddict !! And pretty well spot on with my experience with it also.
 I spent the majority of my time with it listening to the HeAudio 1.2Bs . It was very good sounding overall but it has it's faults (well atleast the old prototype does and with the stock tubes) But I at times detected a bit of a slight midrange "haze" mostly noticed on male vocals. I also found that at times it simply ran out power and had a tendency to sound a bit lifeless when it did. But these were rare times and overall I really enjoyed my time with it.

 I have no doubt that better input/driver tubes would have probably help the situation out, but I simply did not have 4 extra 12ax7s that were not being used in other amps.

 The build quality even on the old prototype was outstanding.


----------



## spritzer

Some pictures of the SR-Ω drivers. 











 Here they are hooked up to an amp and playing some random test tracks. The electrical tape on the side serves two functions a) holds the assembly together and b) allows me to hold the drivers while powered up. I didn't notice any channel imbalance so I guess something outside of the drivers was the source.





 Now I have a spare set of SR-Ω drivers sealed in an airtight box if anything should ever go wrong with my set.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Only the cable but it's not the same color. I've never had to crack open a Nova driver but it looks like powder coated stators, very similar to the SR-404 units._

 

Interesting, I thought I read somewhere that stators were similar in design to Omega or at least using some of that technology.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I have a spare set of SR-Ω drivers sealed in an airtight box if anything should ever go wrong with my set._

 

So now you can put them back in the housing and have another SR-Omega , sweet


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting, I thought I read somewhere that stators were similar in design to Omega or at least using some of that technology. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not that I can see through the dust covers. When your set arrives you can compare the drivers to the pics above...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So now you can put them back in the housing and have another SR-Omega , sweet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll continue to try and improve the hybrid so these drivers will be stored in a secure place. The hybrid has a lot of potential but I need to deaden the chassis as it is far too lively.

 The only one that needs two SR-Omegas is our baby elephant...


----------



## bjarnetv

omaga sigma... omega sigma... do it...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_omaga sigma... omega sigma... do it..._

 

Those drivers are priceless (literally as there are no spares left in the world) so they will hopefully not be touched again, ever!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did how ever just finish doing some small revisions to my Sigma 404 (it was the prototype and I've learned a bit since them) and finished cleaning and conditioning them. They sound great and look like new.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those drivers are priceless (literally as there are no spares left in the world) so they will hopefully not be touched again, ever!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I did how ever just finish doing some small revisions to my Sigma 404 (it was the prototype and I've learned a bit since them) and finished cleaning and conditioning them. They sound great and look like new. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What did you change? If I am ever brave enough to risk killing my SR-303 and Sigma at the same time. By the way SR-303 cable will look very nice with SR-Lambda frame, a much better match than SR-404


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What did you change? If I am ever brave enough to risk killing my SR-303 and Sigma at the same time. By the way SR-303 cable will look very nice with SR-Lambda frame, a much better match than SR-404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I changed the insulation for the terminals and how I connected them. I also messed with the damping a bit around the drivers and modded the strain relief so that is fits better. No major changes and mostly to make sure the phones have a long and trouble free life. 

 I have a Nova Classic here that I could borrow the cable from but the light brown unit doesn't look half bad. I also tried wearing the phones backwards and it is "interesting"...


----------



## Duggeh

Would the SR-Omega drivers fit into the SR-007 housing or are they too large?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would the SR-Omega drivers fit into the SR-007 housing or are they too large?_

 

They are far too big:





 The brass ring is the exact size of the O1 driver so you can see it isn't that much bigger but the Sr-007 housing is carved out around the driver.


----------



## J-Pak

Electrostat drivers...they are all, so beautiful


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Electrostat drivers...they are all, so beautiful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes they are. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've also never quite got used to the fact that a highly tensioned piece of plastic makes all that sound...


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I have been listening to the HE60 and SR-003 for the past 4 hours non-stop! I have not broken out the Lambda Signature yet, maybe tomorrow afternoon more likely. 

 I suspect that the way I have it set up is why the *SRM-1 M2 Pro is almost as good as the Woo GES *- that maybe the SRM-1 pass through could be holding the GES back slightly (either due to the SRM-1 or the silver plated interconnects which I think are very good but not as good and the anti-cables). Or, it may be the fact that this is a 3yr old prototype GES that is not up to todays build SQ. Or, it could be the fact that these headphones are not hard to drive, and that the better amp will only stand out when presented with a difficult phone to drive, like the SR-007 or 4070. *I am just amazed at how well the SRM-1 stands up to the competition. * Both amps are quite good sounding with the HE60 and SR-003, but with the HE60 the edge does go to the GES for being the most overall balanced so far. 


 ._

 

Really nice review HPaddict. I received my SR 007's(omega II) a few days ago, but did not have much time to listen to them. I was not too much in a hurry as I only had the *SRM1/MK2 pro* to plug into. I was under the *wrong* impression that this amp would not drive the 007's well, but I had my socks knocked off when I finally had a chance to listen last night! They sound great on this amp. 
 Now I happen to like the SR 303 more than the Lambda Pro's....more even across the upper mids, smooth treble, and full bass...BUT the 007 is able to present its detail, great midrange and controlled *deep* bass, obviously besting the sr303. The 303 was more forward in the upper range and the 007 warmer/ or darker as many describe BUT it sounds very good still out the srm1/mk2 pro. Very Full sound. 
 The 303 had a touch of sibilance on the Cowboy Junkies "sweet jane", which the 007 tamed, the soundstaging was so more real also, as the 303 presented the cymbals way too close to my Right ear. On Dire Staits "Water of Love" the vocal harmonies were blurred and harsh on the 303, but the 007's detail in the upper mids and much more air made it easier to hear the layers of backup vocal. The difference was as obvious as when I compared my dynamic's to the LambdaPro.

 Computer>Pico>silver miniRCA IC>srm1/mk2pro>SR 007 is pretty worthwhile, despite under powering the 007...the SRM 717 should only be better!


----------



## slwiser

Stax has sold a lot of the MkII lately to many of us.


----------



## The Monkey

All this talk makes me want to hook up the SRM-1 to compare it to the 007t. I'll do so sometime this weekend.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Man I have some bad luck with SR-001 cables! Lastnight I fell asleep with the headphones on only to wake up to sound that was all F'd up. I tested all the connections and everything was hooked up fine, and then I noticed my puppy had chewed on the cable when I was sleeping!!!

 The left driver was playing quieter than the other. I assume this was due to either the + or - cable being severed? But there was also a slight buzz so maybe it was the ground? I'm not sure. What I do know is that I averted disaster and was able to repair it with a bit of solder and heatshrink. Probably reduces the resale value of the unit a lot but I don't think I will ever sell these anyways.


----------



## Edwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man I have some bad luck with SR-001 cables! Lastnight I fell asleep with the headphones on only to wake up to sound that was all F'd up. I tested all the connections and everything was hooked up fine, and then I noticed my puppy had chewed on the cable when I was sleeping!!!

 The left driver was playing quieter than the other. I assume this was due to either the + or - cable being severed? But there was also a slight buzz so maybe it was the ground? I'm not sure. What I do know is that I averted disaster and was able to repair it with a bit of solder and heatshrink. Probably reduces the resale value of the unit a lot but I don't think I will ever sell these anyways._

 

LOL, if they weren't so cute...

 My dog MoMo chewed my UE Triple.Fi cable, which is fortunately cheap and easy to replace.

 Stax cable on the other hand...

 -Ed


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Electrostat drivers...they are all, so beautiful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Indeed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Birgir, thanks for the pictures. ** saved **


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really nice review HPaddict. I received my SR 007's(omega II) a few days ago, but did not have much time to listen to them. I was not too much in a hurry as I only had the *SRM1/MK2 pro* to plug into. I was under the *wrong* impression that this amp would not drive the 007's well, but I had my socks knocked off when I finally had a chance to listen last night! They sound great on this amp. 
 Now I happen to like the SR 303 more than the Lambda Pro's....more even across the upper mids, smooth treble, and full bass...BUT the 007 is able to present its detail, great midrange and controlled *deep* bass, obviously besting the sr303. The 303 was more forward in the upper range and the 007 warmer/ or darker as many describe BUT it sounds very good still out the srm1/mk2 pro. Very Full sound. 
 The 303 had a touch of sibilance on the Cowboy Junkies "sweet jane", which the 007 tamed, the soundstaging was so more real also, as the 303 presented the cymbals way too close to my Right ear. On Dire Staits "Water of Love" the vocal harmonies were blurred and harsh on the 303, but the 007's detail in the upper mids and much more air made it easier to hear the layers of backup vocal. The difference was as obvious as when I compared my dynamic's to the LambdaPro.

 Computer>Pico>silver miniRCA IC>srm1/mk2pro>SR 007 is pretty worthwhile, despite under powering the 007...the SRM 717 should only be better!_

 

Now you MUST come to the CO meet on the 26th, so we can all listen to the SR-007 on the loaner Woo GES that I am bringing, and the ES-1 that Mikhail will have there. 

 In other news, I spent the whole day today with my HE60/HEV70 over at Blutarsky's, comparing it to his rare Grado PS-1, HP-2, and others. He is now mad at me for making him want to sell something for his own pair of HE60.


----------



## tako_tsubo

ha! I forgot about the singlepower ES1....but too many trips to Denver already planned from the rest of the family, although I am delivering my son to DU at the end of August, BAD timing! Enjoy the Colorado meet HPaddict!

 If the srm 717 gives the 007's close to the oomph and control of the bass that comes out of it using the SRD 7pro, I will stick with the 717!


----------



## blumenco

Did anyone actually like the 404 MORE then the omegas? if so, why?

 Curious.

 maybe I am not providing enough background... I have heard the orpheus, omegas, both multiple occasions. the omegas never did it for me. the presentation was just off somehow. many different amps, all the same issue.

 I can understand people liking them to be sure. they arre incredibly detailed, nice sounding. I had an issue with them perhaps sounding too "high class" for me. 

 the 404 sound more like real music. not perfect, but still: VERY nice sound, and up front like good studio monitors. 

 They do not try to be more than they are, and in that aspect, they are more than they are, specially for the money. 

 I am thinking of getting a used pair and DIYing a crazy amp for them or something as a side project. Is this a good route?

 Any encouragement?

 -Clark


----------



## derekbmn

There have been people on the forum that have preferred the 404s over the O2s. But in most all cases they were based on a short time with both (at a meet etc.) 
 The O2 simply does not hit you in the face like so many other E-stats. It can take some time to realize just how amazing it is.
 It can do things that the 404 simply can't. The O2 really is what I would consider a "one owner phone" meaning the arcs really need to be bent to attain a perfect fit for the owner. It makes for a huge difference.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have been people on the forum that have preferred the 404s over the O2s. But in most all cases they were based on a short time with both (at a meet etc.) 
*The O2 simply does not hit you in the face* like so many other E-stats. It can take some time to realize just how amazing it is.
 It can do things that the 404 simply can't. The O2 really is what I would consider a "one owner phone" meaning the arcs really need to be bent to attain a perfect fit for the owner. It makes for a huge difference._

 

Beg to differ on that point. Out of the BHSE prototype I got punched hard.


----------



## blumenco

Agreed...

 Everything you say, I will certainly grant. The O2 is a highly refined sound, and I do not knock it for what it is for a second. stunning...

 I did hear them (404, O2, 202, 303) in comparison during a relatively short duration, yesterday.

 Previously, I have spent a fair amount of time in the O2 (longest at one sitting is 20 minutes), with several sittings lasting a song or two at different people's meets, or houses. I had never heard the lower end Stax. 

 From the most recent boxing match, for me, the 404 came out on top. Lots more "jump" factor, and a seemingly more neutral character geared towards studio engineers. A little upper midrange stridency, less absolute detail, and a little bit of "plastic sound." But they simply struck me as a really good value for the money, especially considering that an amp could be DIYed. Headphones are like a motorcycle for me personally though. I do not spend long periods of time in any headphone except Etymotics because of the noise reduction factor. An album at the most though even the nicest headphones before the little sonic issues (I am incredibly picky) start to bother me because they are right next to my head. For longer periods of time, (and for most listening) I listen to speakers.

 Ill put it this way: the O2 seemed like a relaxed, european (speaker) tonal character. the 404 seemed more of the japanese ilk: highly dynamic, emotionally powerful, not overdoing the bass. Ill bring this factor into play here: apples and oranges...

 They are very different sounding headphones to me. The O2 seems like Stax worked very hard to not give us anything that would remotely fatigue us during listening. That is VERY appreciated from my perspective...and perhaps part of the problem. they seem a little heavy charactered (though they are incredibly fast). Again, no offense intended... apples and oranges...

 Even the Orpheus could be considered more fatiguing than the O2, with its slight tizzle on top and low bass yeehaw...

 If the 404 were a little bit more refined (at roughly the same price), it would be a complete no brainer for me. For now, I just have my mouth on the bait...

 -Clark

 Again though, is there a DIY history behind this headphone?

 Thanks!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blumenco* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agreed...

 Everything you say, I will certainly grant. The O2 is a highly refined sound, and I do not knock it for what it is for a second. stunning...

 I did hear them (404, O2, 202, 303) in comparison during a relatively short duration, yesterday.

 Previously, I have spent a fair amount of time in the O2 (longest at one sitting is 20 minutes), with several sittings lasting a song or two at different people's meets, or houses. I had never heard the lower end Stax. 

 From the most recent boxing match, for me, the 404 came out on top. Lots more "jump" factor, and a seemingly more neutral character geared towards studio engineers. A little upper midrange stridency, less absolute detail, and a little bit of "plastic sound." But they simply struck me as a really good value for the money, especially considering that an amp could be DIYed. Headphones are like a motorcycle for me personally though. I do not spend long periods of time in any headphone except Etymotics because of the noise reduction factor. An album at the most though even the nicest headphones before the little sonic issues (I am incredibly picky) start to bother me because they are right next to my head. For longer periods of time, (and for most listening) I listen to speakers.

 Ill put it this way: the O2 seemed like a relaxed, european (speaker) tonal character. the 404 seemed more of the japanese ilk: highly dynamic, emotionally powerful, not overdoing the bass. Ill bring this factor into play here: apples and oranges...

 They are very different sounding headphones to me. The O2 seems like Stax worked very hard to not give us anything that would remotely fatigue us during listening. That is VERY appreciated from my perspective...and perhaps part of the problem. they seem a little heavy charactered (though they are incredibly fast). Again, no offense intended... apples and oranges...

 Even the Orpheus could be considered more fatiguing than the O2, with its slight tizzle on top and low bass yeehaw...

 If the 404 were a little bit more refined (at roughly the same price), it would be a complete no brainer for me. For now, I just have my mouth on the bait...

 -Clark

 Again though, is there a DIY history behind this headphone?

 Thanks!_

 

I do not recommend evaluating the sound quality of different headphones with only little snippits of audition. Short term listening practices (the quick A/B) when evaluating audio equipment has been abolished by the “high end” community for more than 30 years. I have been a long term electrostatic headphone listener since the early seventies. There are many here (including myself) that don’t even think that the 404 is the best of the Lambda series. I find the upper midrange brightness a deal breaker. I would rather long term listen to a SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature or Lambda Nova Signature than the 404/303/202. I do agree that after a short listen to a 404 a O2 would sound distant, dull, lifeless and muddy. Live with the O2 then listen to the 404, then they would sound tizzy, bright, edgy, glary, thin. If the O2 is not properly driven with the best amp and source you are not hearing them. If you would like a phone that is Lambda-Like without the upper midrange flaws try a Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax connector. Other than my O2 I find myself most often listening to the 950.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not recommend evaluating the sound quality of different headphones with only little snippits of audition. Short term listening practices (the quick A/B) when evaluating audio equipment has been abolished by the “high end” community for more than 30 years. I have been a long term electrostatic headphone listener since the early seventies. There are many here (including myself) that don’t even think that the 404 is the best of the Lambda series. I find the upper midrange brightness a deal breaker. I would rather long term listen to a SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature or Lambda Nova Signature than the 404/303/202. I do agree that after a short listen to a 404 a O2 would sound distant, dull, lifeless and muddy. Live with the O2 then listen to the 404, then they would sound tizzy, bright, edgy, glary, thin. If the O2 is not properly driven with the best amp and source you are not hearing them. If you would like a phone that is Lambda-Like without the upper midrange flaws try a Koss ESP-950 wired with a Stax connector. Other than my O2 I find myself most often listening to the 950._

 

Wow- electrostats since the 1970's. You must have enormous experience. I agree totally with you that many headphones at first sound better than the 02 but long term- once you get used to the 02 it is difficult to listen to anything else- very much including the HE90. Do you really find you can listen to the Koss 950 after having your ear trained by the 02? Is it as non-fatiguing without any trebble brightness as the 02?

 Also- do you have a recommendation for best amp. on the market to match the 02- cost no object?

 I woukld appreciate your advice...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow- electrostats since the 1970's. You must have enormous experience. I agree totally with you that many headphones at first sound better than the 02 but long term- once you get used to the 02 it is difficult to listen to anything else- very much including the HE90. Do you really find you can listen to the Koss 950 after having your ear trained by the 02? Is it as non-fatiguing without any trebble brightness as the 02?

 Also- do you have a recommendation for best amp. on the market to match the 02- cost no object?

 I woukld appreciate your advice..._

 

My first electrostatic phone was a Koss ESP-9 (when they first came out). My second was a Stax SR-3 with a SRA-3s amp. I got my first electrostatic speakers (Quad ESL) in 1969. My main headphones and speakers have been electrostatic ever since.

 The ESP-950 is not in the same league as the O2 but clearly is better (in most ways) than the Lambda series. They have almost a perfect tonal balance. Somewhere between the Lambda series and O2. They have good extension and are very dynamic. The only drawback is that they don’t have the best low level detail like the Lambda or O2. They play pop/rock at higher levels without fatigue. They are a fun headphone. 

 Clearly the best Stax amp for the O2 is the SRM-717. The SRM-007t is nice on other Stax phones but doesn’t have the extension or drive for the O2. The only aftermarket amp I’ve tried was a KGSS. I liked my 717 & 007t better than the KGSS. The KGSS does not have the low level detail or ambiance retrieval of the Stax amps. I have not heard the BH but there are many here that think that it is a perfect match for the O2. It seems like there are a lot of aftermarket amps with a lot of complaints with sound quality, reliability, QC and warranty problems. I will not buy a amp from a flakey company.


----------



## facelvega

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Short term listening practices (the quick A/B) when evaluating audio equipment has been abolished by the “high end” community for more than 30 years._

 

Technically, yes, but everyone still does it. I think the quick A/B has its place, as long as one goes into it aware of the limitations and danger of having one's ear misled. Also it's often the only comparison available, so even if it needs to be taken with a grain of salt, it's better than nothing. But I suppose it would be most reliable for the person who always listens to music in 30 second intervals.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ It seems like there are a lot of aftermarket amps with a lot of complaints with sound quality, reliability, QC and warranty problems. I will not buy a amp from a flakey company._

 

Now, the "high end" community will never follow you down that road! Amps from flakey or unheard-of companies have been routinely touted for those same thirty years, no? Of course, judging strictly by the magazines, one would imagine the finest gear is always whatever they're reviewing today (or if not finest, then the most surprising for the price).


----------



## derekbmn

Speaking of flakey , I see McAlister has finally updated their website-McAlister Audio - Vacuum tube power amplifiers, High End Audio, Tube Amps
 Of obvious interest here is the EA-8. It _LOOKS_ a bit better.... soooo.... anyone willing to take one for the team.....


----------



## Johnny Blue

Please tell me this guy is being wildly over-optimistic! (£500 BIN: you're 'avin' a larf!)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of flakey , I see McAlister has finally updated their website-McAlister Audio - Vacuum tube power amplifiers, High End Audio, Tube Amps
 Of obvious interest here is the EA-8. It LOOKS a bit better.... soooo.... anyone willing to take one for the team....._

 

I'd rather just burn the 1800$. I see he's going the Rudistor and Singlepower way and charging more for the same crap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please tell me this guy is being wildly over-optimistic! (£500 BIN: you're 'avin' a larf!)_

 

I had a good chuckle over that.


----------



## scompton

I just got my SR-3. They need charging up so I just have them plugged in now. I can just plug them in, I don't need to play music to charge them, correct?

 They came with a SRD-5 and the bad news is there is a loud hum when they're plugged into the SRD-5 whether the adapter is set to ear speaker or speakers.


----------



## aaron313

Upon receiving my 303 this morning, and having shown my mom the Lambda Pro I got yesterday, she said "What do you need both for? They look the same."


----------



## rsbrsvp

Is the SRM-717 better than the SRM-727?

 Thanksss


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Upon receiving my 303 this morning, and having shown my mom the Lambda Pro I got yesterday, she said "What do you need both for? They look the same."_

 

So are you saying you you want the STAX mafia to pay her a visit.......if...uh....there was one....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *facelvega* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Technically, yes, but everyone still does it. I think the quick A/B has its place, as long as one goes into it aware of the limitations and danger of having one's ear misled. Also it's often the only comparison available, so even if it needs to be taken with a grain of salt, it's better than nothing. But I suppose it would be most reliable for the person who always listens to music in 30 second intervals.



 Now, the "high end" community will never follow you down that road! Amps from flakey or unheard-of companies have been routinely touted for those same thirty years, no? Of course, judging strictly by the magazines, one would imagine the finest gear is always whatever they're reviewing today (or if not finest, then the most surprising for the price)._

 

I think A/B'ing has it's place, but it's a small place. If you buy something based on a short audition make sure you can get your money back if dissatisfied.

 I dropped my subscriptions for the "high end" mags years ago. My record for spotting flakey audio companies has been pretty good.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the SRM-717 better than the SRM-727?

 Thanksss_

 

Yes! I purchased a 727II when they first came out. I compared it to my 717, 007t and KGSS. I think that Stax wanted to make the 727 sound too much like a tube amp, but failed. It sounds dull, lifeless and opaque on the O2. It's not bad on the other Stax phones.


----------



## Asr

Aw crap I hate eBay, I just got out-bid on a white SR-5 by mere seconds. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But at least I finally paid for an OII MKII order today, whooooo! Hope it gets here soon.


----------



## tensaichen

Since BH is bit out of reach in terms of availability right now, what's the general thought about using the energizer (SRD-7 Pro/Mk2) or Stax amp (SRM-717/007t) to drive O2?

 I've read some threads regarding Stax amps generally gives more clarity/detail, and energizers probably has a wider dynamic range, but what are people's general preference?


----------



## scompton

Has anyone heard of Accutex ST-1000 electrets? I just won a pair on eBay and I can't find any information on them.


----------



## bjarnetv

i think its the same as the Echo ED-1000

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The style reminds me of my Echo electret headphones, which had their transformers inside the earcups. 






 A very clean sound to those but incapable of high volume and the pads were awful. I modded them with some NAD16 pads and sold them on for a few pennies. Those toshibas though are clearly the shiznitz on which these were based as some sort of cheap alternative._


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So are you saying you you want the STAX mafia to pay her a visit.......if...uh....there was one....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

PM sent...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd rather just burn the 1800$. I see he's going the Rudistor and Singlepower way and charging more for the same crap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you don't mind, rather than burning your $1800 can you just send it out for me to use for a while....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In relation to McAllister I read and understand the various negative experiences HeadFi-ers have had but I must have some incrediable luck ("touch wood") because my EA-4 serves quite well as a back-up to my Woo GES. So much so that I doubt the EA-8 improvements can justify the $1799 asking price.


----------



## Dutchess of York

hey stax thread - just received my SRD7pro/NuForce Icon to pair with my Lambda Pros that have been very lonely for the past month and wanted to report what everyone already know, they sound incredible. Better then anything ive heard, miles ahead of my HD650s.

 Also, while I have never heard the SRM1/mk2, the Srd7 seems to sing with the Icon. There is the bass punch I was afraid of not hearing based on reviews and the mids are maybe not as pronounced as my grados, but are liquid smooth and non-sucked out. Looking foreword to a long career on Team Stax


----------



## rsbrsvp

There has been much talk in this thread about the SRM-717 being the best Stax amp. to drive the Omega 2- my favorite headphone by far.

 I am not an equipment freak. I am a music freak and I love music on the 02 better than any speaker in the world- headphone or monitor. I want to have the minimum equipment to give the best sound.

 Is there anyone out ther who has listened to a BH or BHSE or ES-1 with the Omega 2; and sonically are they any better to your ears than the SRM 717 in driving the 02? If so, is it by much?


----------



## blumenco

What I was trying to get at there was the music concepts, not products, so thanks so much for picking up on my concept (that I wanted mo betta 404 style sound). And recommending for me to listen further...that is the greatest gift, of understanding. So thank you.

 Koss 950... still available? omoshiroi, ne? (Interesting, huh...)

 Quick evals? Depending on the circumstances they can be highly useful, IMO. Drink some coffee, really zone in, and trust your gut... Sometimes, to advocate always letting the hypnosis set in stymies your critical nature and is doing your greater pleasure centers a disservice - because it keeps you from searching for better things.

 Some take it slow, some like it hot... I guess I like to mix it up....

 I was in a store called "Akiba" in Tokyo, listening to all these phones. It is like 9 stories high, each level is same SQ FT as a best buy. Every iota of usable space in the entire complex was packed (Japanese style) with every current production electronic device known to man. well, maybe not. But it was crazy.

 They had a headphone rack with TONS of headphones, all playing the same horrid J-pop song on repeat (synchronous). It was not a good source either (at all), but alot could still be learned from quick ABing. I had heard alot of these phones before under better circumstances, but this was still a pretty interesting excersize.

 They also had a "high end" setup. amongst 6 or so other exhaustive setups of various headphone brands (In a relatively quiet part of the store...), they had all the stax phones with all the stax amps. It was pretty cool. I had my Ipod there, as it was far more useful than their Marantz SACD player because I was familiar with the music, the Ipod's sonic signature, my cable's sonic signature, and also I run CD files off the thing so it actually does not sound half bad.

 My headphone hobby initially lead me into dynamic phones because of budget, initial lack of DIY skill, and thinking blindly that "NO OTHER ELECTROSTAT COULD EVER MEASURE UP TO ORPHEUS" blah blah blah.... 

 Seeing recent market developments, and hearing a little of what was also actually good from the past: boy, was I wrong....

 Lots of work to do...

 So thanks for the heads up, from a (very well read and listened) stax collector.

 Gonna go listen to the koss (if I can...).

 -Thanks again,

 -Clark


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So much so that I doubt the EA-8 improvements can justify the $1799 asking price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Exactly. You doubt the EA-8 is worth $1799 as well.
 Just like Birgir...


----------



## aaron313

Posted in Pics of Rig thread, but applies here, too:

 Start with the Stax:





 Next, the AD2000 and its good friend, the Pico:





 Stax 323A and PS Audio DLIII help run the Stax show:





 The whole gang:





 Just put on Lambda's, angry Aaron:





 Stax send Aaron into immediate trance:





 Aaron has become possessed by the Lambda's:





 Aaron has become completely delusional, and turned into... (see below pic if you don't get it):





 Patrick82!

 Whack-job transformation complete thanks to audio.


----------



## aaron313

All I can say at this moment is that the 3050 system, and the Lambda Pro, are stunning. I finally feel as though I have purchased gear that sounds real. The fact that it gets much better is actually scary.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you don't mind, rather than burning your $1800 can you just send it out for me to use for a while....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In relation to McAllister I read and understand the various negative experiences HeadFi-ers have had but I must have some incrediable luck ("touch wood") because my EA-4 serves quite well as a back-up to my Woo GES. So much so that I doubt the EA-8 improvements can justify the $1799 asking price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If I ever lost my mind and was planning to buy a McAllister then I'll send you the cash instead.


----------



## tako_tsubo

nice set up aaron313! 
 Can you let us know the sound differences between the Pico and PS Audio DLIII? Seems the Stax set up's are sensitive to source input...the pico gives a very full sound to the 303 and Lambda pro, but the pico likes the 303 more...The predator just plain sucks as a dac for the Stax' . I still have to get a usb digital transporter for my desktop to hook my lavry DA10 to my Stax setup. I am just too lazy to hook things up to the Home theater where the lavry/SB3 currently resides.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I have been listening to the HE60 and SR-003 for the past 4 hours non-stop! I have not broken out the Lambda Signature yet, maybe tomorrow afternoon more likely. I have tried them with the following 4 amps:

 Woo GES prototype (not up to current specs), 
 SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, 
 HEV70 with stax adapter, and 
 Nuforce Icon with SRD-7 Pro.

 To be able to listen to all 4 running at the same time by simply plugging in phones, I have the Apogee mini-DAC XLR out via Neutrik 12" XLR interconnects to Jensens Transformers RCA adapter to anti-cables IC's to SRM-1 Mk2 Pro - then out of the pass through via silver plated copper IC ($60) to the Woo GES. Then I have the Apogee mini-DAC 1/8" line out via Jenna Labs 22g cryo Canare F12 mini-mini to Nuforce with SRD-7 and the Nuforce pre-amp line out via barqy silver plated mini>RCA to HEV70. I already had it set up this way, except that I unplugged the Woo WA6 and replaced it with the GES plugged into the WA6's IC's and Shunyata Viper power cord. I used my Marantza CD5001 via Coax out with a Synergistic Research Digital coax cable into the Apogee.

 I listened to Jack Johnson "On and On", FIM XRCD Jacintha "Autumn Leaves", FIM XRCD Tsuyoshi Yamamoto "Smooth Jazz Festival", FIM XRCD "Jazz at the Pawnshop", Diana Krall "Girl in the Other Room" and "This is K2 HD" sampler.

 I suspect that the way I have it set up is why the SRM-1 M2 Pro is almost as good as the Woo GES - that maybe the SRM-1 pass through could be holding the GES back slightly (either due to the SRM-1 or the silver plated interconnects which I think are very good but not as good and the anti-cables). Or, it may be the fact that this is a 3yr old prototype GES that is not up to todays build SQ. Or, it could be the fact that these headphones are not hard to drive, and that the better amp will only stand out when presented with a difficult phone to drive, like the SR-007 or 4070. I am just amazed at how well the SRM-1 stands up to the competition. Both amps are quite good sounding with the HE60 and SR-003, but with the HE60 the edge does go to the GES for being the most overall balanced so far. 

 The Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro has more PRaT and impact, but there is some missing micro-detail and ambience/air with it, making some music sound like it was done in a studio instead of a small venue. In contrast, the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is filled with air and ambience and detail, but doesn't have quite the punch of the SRD-7 pro. The Woo GES seems to bridge that gap and give more air and ambience than the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro, but more bass impact than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (but it doesn't quite match the bass of the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro). Soundstage in the GES is well focused in both width and depth, while the SRM-1 seems slightly less focused and smeared but taller.

 The GES tames the edge on the highs that I hear in the HE60 with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, while the SR-003 benefit from that edge and I might slightly like the SR-003 better with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The GES has slightly less air and ambience than the SRM-1, but I am fairly sure that if I run the anti-cables directly into the GES (and skip the SRM-1) that the sound will get a little more open. The Nuforce adds a little more forwards mids and intimacy as well as more bass, but the treble is closer to the GES and less than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. Switching to the HEV70, I get the forward mids and punchier bass of the Nuforce, but with slightly less airy treble and ambience than the GES or SRM-1 (but more than the Nuforce/SRD-7 pro).

 I have to take a break from this, and I'll post more when I change the cables around to skip the SRM-1 pass-through. Too bad the GES and WA6 don't have pass-through or pre-amp out._

 

I am now evaluating the GES connected directly to the Apogee mini-DAC, instead of passing through the SRM-1 with several interconnects between the DAC and Woo. It was Apogee > 12" neutrik XLR IC > Jensens RCA Transformer > Anti-cables IC > SRM-1 > Silver plated copper IC > Woo GES. 

 Now it is Apogee > mini-RCA silver plated copper > Woo. I will also try it with Apogee > mini-RCA solid 1-piece adapter > Anti-cables IC > Woo GES. Then I will also try it with Apogee > neutrik XLR to RCA gender plug > Anti-cables IC.

 I will report back late tonight, after my son's baseball game, with the GES and the above connections, using the HE60, SR-Lambda Signature and SR-003. (don't have the Gamma pro here yet).


----------



## slwiser




----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hey, I could own some O2 also, I just don't want to have to pay off the credit card afterwards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS: I need more time to do my GES evaluation, hopefully will be done tomorrow.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All I can say at this moment is that the 3050 system, and the Lambda Pro, are stunning. I finally feel as though I have purchased gear that sounds real. The fact that it gets much better is actually scary._

 

Then you're definitely on the right track! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Electrostatics are kind of magic.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then you're definitely on the right track! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Electrostatics are kind of magic._

 

Magic is about right. It's as though the headphones are more my friends, as opposed to being just tools. Very interesting experience.


----------



## Faust2D

I have a question about Lambda Nova Signature headband. If I were to peel the soft vinyl material on top what will I find underneath? It's beginning to flake on my LNS and I was trying to see of peeling it off would make ruin the headband or just expose some nice looking lather like material.


----------



## blumenco

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Magic is about right. It's as though the headphones are more my friends, as opposed to being just tools. Very interesting experience._

 

Indeed, that headphone paradigm is exactly what I have been looking for for a long time. Dynamic phones? You name it, Ive head it and had mixed feelings on it... The ATH W1000 is nice though, not much bass at all though... Ive heard that the amp matters.

 I am so glad to have been helped to re-discover my headphone passion with the help of those on this forum. While I build single drivers for a living, I admit that I have learned from Electrostats (both speakers and headphones), quite a bit. Like single drivers, they are very special sounding when done properly. (Also, like single driver systems, they can be quite bad when NOT done properly...)

 Too, speakers are darned nice, but sometimes it is fun to cut the room out of the equation (for better or worse, regarding the reproduction of the record's mastering techniques). So headpohone electrostats it is. bye bye grado, sennheiser hd650 (so tired of those things). Etymotics, well, those are nice. Learning to love them...

 But electrostats are for chillin. Can't beat that.

 Clark


----------



## Asr

Who's bought an OII MKII from Moon Audio? I haven't gotten a shipping notification yet, anyone know how long these take to ship?


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of flakey , I see McAlister has finally updated their website-McAlister Audio - Vacuum tube power amplifiers, High End Audio, Tube Amps
 Of obvious interest here is the EA-8. It LOOKS a bit better.... soooo.... anyone willing to take one for the team....._

 

Looks a lot like _my_ (returned) EA-6. No thanks - that 'tasty' exterior is fool's gold for what was found inside, at least on mine. Just request an interior shot of the amp before you plunk down, then there won't be any sickening surprises.


----------



## Headdie

Is there something like a Stax FAQ before I begin asking stupid questions?


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there something like a Stax FAQ before I begin asking stupid questions?_

 

There are no stupid questions, only questions not asked when should have been are stupid after the fact.


----------



## tako_tsubo

You can start at the wiki
Stax Earspeakers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 then go to the first page and start reading...it took me two weeks of "night shifts"


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I have been listening to the HE60 and SR-003 for the past 4 hours non-stop! I have not broken out the Lambda Signature yet, maybe tomorrow afternoon more likely. I have tried them with the following 4 amps:

 Woo GES prototype (not up to current specs), 
 SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, 
 HEV70 with stax adapter, and 
 Nuforce Icon with SRD-7 Pro.

 To be able to listen to all 4 running at the same time by simply plugging in phones, I have the Apogee mini-DAC XLR out via Neutrik 12" XLR interconnects to Jensens Transformers RCA adapter to anti-cables IC's to SRM-1 Mk2 Pro - then out of the pass through via silver plated copper IC ($60) to the Woo GES. Then I have the Apogee mini-DAC 1/8" line out via Jenna Labs 22g cryo Canare F12 mini-mini to Nuforce with SRD-7 and the Nuforce pre-amp line out via barqy silver plated mini>RCA to HEV70. I already had it set up this way, except that I unplugged the Woo WA6 and replaced it with the GES plugged into the WA6's IC's and Shunyata Viper power cord. I used my Marantza CD5001 via Coax out with a Synergistic Research Digital coax cable into the Apogee.

 I listened to Jack Johnson "On and On", FIM XRCD Jacintha "Autumn Leaves", FIM XRCD Tsuyoshi Yamamoto "Smooth Jazz Festival", FIM XRCD "Jazz at the Pawnshop", Diana Krall "Girl in the Other Room" and "This is K2 HD" sampler.

 I suspect that the way I have it set up is why the SRM-1 M2 Pro is almost as good as the Woo GES - that maybe the SRM-1 pass through could be holding the GES back slightly (either due to the SRM-1 or the silver plated interconnects which I think are very good but not as good and the anti-cables). Or, it may be the fact that this is a 3yr old prototype GES that is not up to todays build SQ. Or, it could be the fact that these headphones are not hard to drive, and that the better amp will only stand out when presented with a difficult phone to drive, like the SR-007 or 4070. I am just amazed at how well the SRM-1 stands up to the competition. Both amps are quite good sounding with the HE60 and SR-003, but with the HE60 the edge does go to the GES for being the most overall balanced so far. 

 The Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro has more PRaT and impact, but there is some missing micro-detail and ambience/air with it, making some music sound like it was done in a studio instead of a small venue. In contrast, the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is filled with air and ambience and detail, but doesn't have quite the punch of the SRD-7 pro. The Woo GES seems to bridge that gap and give more air and ambience than the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro, but more bass impact than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (but it doesn't quite match the bass of the Nuforce/SRD-7 Pro). Soundstage in the GES is well focused in both width and depth, while the SRM-1 seems slightly less focused and smeared but taller.

 The GES tames the edge on the highs that I hear in the HE60 with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, while the SR-003 benefit from that edge and I might slightly like the SR-003 better with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. The GES has slightly less air and ambience than the SRM-1, but I am fairly sure that if I run the anti-cables directly into the GES (and skip the SRM-1) that the sound will get a little more open. The Nuforce adds a little more forwards mids and intimacy as well as more bass, but the treble is closer to the GES and less than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. Switching to the HEV70, I get the forward mids and punchier bass of the Nuforce, but with slightly less airy treble and ambience than the GES or SRM-1 (but more than the Nuforce/SRD-7 pro).

 I have to take a break from this, and I'll post more when I change the cables around to skip the SRM-1 pass-through. Too bad the GES and WA6 don't have pass-through or pre-amp out._

 

Okay, so I have been spending more time on my HE60 with just the SRM-1 and the 3yr old prototype Woo GES, connected directly to the Apogee mini-DAC one at a time. Previously I posted that when connecting the Woo GES to the pass-through RCA out of the SRM-1 via silver plated copper IC that the two amps were fairly close in sound quality, with the Woo just a little better than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. 

 Since yesterday I have disconnected the Woo from the back of the SRM-1 and ran the GES directly to the Apogee (via XLR out > 12" Neutrik IC > Jensen XLR to RCA transformer > Anti-cables ICs > Woo GES). I would then unplug the anti-cables IC from the GES and quickly plug them into the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro to listen to the other amp with the same cables.

*There is no question in my mind now that the GES is better than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro when either is using the higher quality interconnects directly from the Apogee mini-DAC, with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro being about 90% of the the Woo* (when the SRM-1 is connected to the same cables as the Woo and swapping the IC cables back and forth). I can't stop listening to the GES while I type this!

 The improvements are primarily in a just little better bass control and definition and presence, and a noticeable bump in ambience and air and detail without becoming piercing or bright - while the SRM-1 is just a bit thinner in the bass and a bit more shrill in the highs on some material than the Woo GES. It was those very qualities in the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that had lead me to purchase the SRD-7 Pro adapter and Nuforce Icon for the HE60 (before I had a working PSU for the HEV70). While the SRM-1 is fantastic with the SR-003 and SR-Lambda Signature (and not bad with the HE60) I was prefering the Nuforce with SRD-7 Pro with the HE60. Now the GES is on top with everything - I can't wait to find out what a GES built up to the current specs would sound like. 

 After this assessment, I then decided to test the difference between interconnects. I ran a highflyin9 built Zysonics silver plated copper IC to one of the two amps from the 1/8" line out, so I could compare and switch more quickly between the Woo and the SRM-1 without having to unplug one amp to listen to the other (previous testing showed my XLR out and 1/8" sound the same). I then listened to each amp with both sets of interconnects (the XLR setup with anti-cables, and the 1/8" out to RCA), and I also pulled the anti-cables out and tried a set of highflyin9 RCA-RCA IC in their place. 

 In this test with different quality interconnects, I clearly hear some of those same improvements with the anti-cables IC's vs any of my silver plated copper IC. The anti-cables make either amp sound better. I confirmed this when I swapped the cables - the anti-cables IC made the SRM-1 sound better and closer to the Woo GES when used with either of my silver plated copper IC (mini-RCA and RCA-RCA). This brought the SRM-1 back to being 95% of the GES if I used anti-cables with the SRM-1 and silver plated copper with the GES. Typically I use the silver plated copper to feed my Woo maxed WA6 dynamic phone amp and they get along well, while I use the anti-cables to feed my Stats.

 Now, I need to add that at a mini-meet with Blutarsky last Saturday there was minimal difference in sound quality between the Apogee XLR out and 1/8" line out, if we used *similar* quality and type cables when were were using the HEV70 at his house. In my initial review my SRM-1 and the GES were both being fed from the XLR (while the SRD-7 and HEV70 were connected to the 1/8" out). So, I believe the improvement in the GES sound quality now vs my initial testing of the GES is both due to eliminating the SRM-1 pass through AND the improvement in interconnects. Nevertheless, with the best cables I have, the SRM-1 was still only 90% of the GES when used with the same cables.

 PS: I have never heard Guinea Pig "Kool Cats" or Jazz at the Pawn Shop sound this real before, ever!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I hate having to decide what to sell to buy a Woo GES now.


----------



## tako_tsubo

There is no stupid question, right? What's an anti-cable? is it kinda like Luke's light saber and swooshes when you take 'em out?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 really, actually a serious question, as I do not know what they are and who makes them...
 they do sound kind of mystical...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question about Lambda Nova Signature headband. If I were to peel the soft vinyl material on top what will I find underneath? It's beginning to flake on my LNS and I was trying to see of peeling it off would make ruin the headband or just expose some nice looking lather like material._

 

No one did this to their LNS? Also does anyone know what is the membrane thickness for LNS is it 1.5um or 1.35um?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no stupid question, right? What's an anti-cable? is it kinda like Luke's light saber and swooshes when you take 'em out?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 really, actually a serious question, as I do not know what they are and who makes them...
 they do sound kind of mystical..._

 

No, more like anti-matter from Star Trek 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Anti-Cables | Home

Anti-Cables | Anti-IC's

 These are fantastic interconnects. I wouldn't know about speaker cables because I still use 18g lamp cord for that.


----------



## blumenco

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, more like anti-matter from Star Trek 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Anti-Cables | Home

Anti-Cables | Anti-IC's

 These are fantastic interconnects. I wouldn't know about speaker cables because I still use 18g lamp cord for that._

 

I second that.

 Terry Cain and I came across the anti cable a few years ago.

 It really does not take much to simply do the trick, folks...often times the complicated designs just muck things up. Want proof? Open up some amplifiers, or better yet, transformers. What is in there? Also, look at the binding posts on oscilloscopes...

 As always, YMMV, these are just humble opinions.

 A good speaker cable design was circulating around TNT audio a few years back. It was cross connected coax cable. Called the u-byte or something like that.

 -Clark


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there something like a Stax FAQ before I begin asking stupid questions?_

 

No FAQ.
 But the Stax website and/or "Stax Earspeakers" on Wikipedia may answer your questions. That said there are no stupid questions...


----------



## Faust2D

Just an FYI in case someone wants to help. I am trying to put together a wiki with basic and detailed info about various headphones, Stax will be one of the big categories. Main Page - Wikiphonia. The purpose of this page is to categorize and organize the knowledge in easy to access form.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_then go to the first page and start reading...it took me two weeks of "night shifts" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think the Stax Mafia should present anyone who reads the entirety of this thread with a free SR-007 Mk2.

 Calling Caporegime edstrelow, Caporegime Faust2D, Consigliere audiod, Underboss krmathis, Don Spritzer?

American Mafia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Stax Mafia should present anyone who reads the entirety of this thread with a free SR-007 Mk2.

 Calling Caporegime edstrelow, Caporegime Faust2D, Consigliere audiod, Underboss krmathis, Don Spritzer?

American Mafia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia_

 






 ha ha ha, never thought I of myself as part of the Stax mafia


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Stax Mafia should present anyone who reads the entirety of this thread with a free SR-007 Mk2.

 Calling Caporegime edstrelow, Caporegime Faust2D, Consigliere audiod, Underboss krmathis, Don Spritzer?

American Mafia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia_

 

Thanks...but I must refuse such a kind gift, as I have a SR 007 already and I like to hear the fart


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Stax Mafia should present anyone who reads the entirety of this thread with a free SR-007 Mk2.

 Calling Caporegime edstrelow, Caporegime Faust2D, Consigliere audiod, Underboss krmathis, Don Spritzer?

American Mafia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia_

 

Yeah but then they would OWN you and if you bought dynamic headphones you'd wake up with a horses head wearing bose headphones next to you - Terrifiying!


----------



## Headdie

What can I expect going from a Denon D2000 to a Stax SR-303? Less bass I guess, but a significant improvement somewhere else?

 Would SR-303 be enough to experience a significant improvement?

 Would SRM-313 or SRM-323 be the way to go? Is there an audible difference between both?

 Would it be wise to put a little more on the headphone or the amplifier?

 If I put more on the amplifier, could I use it also with my D2000, with some kind of adapter?

 I assume it would be difficult to do it the other way around... Using the SR-303 with a good standard amplifier... Cause I can't find SRDs with pro bias at a reasonable price...

 There's also the Koss ESP-950, but that would be for another thread I guess...

 Thanks all


----------



## Headdie

Just read this one,

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post3077015

 Understand there is not much difference between 202/303/404.

 Understand difference would come from the amplifier.

 BTW, I'm not looking for tubes... Maybe a mistake... If I ever decide for tubes, I would prefer to do it with a tube buffer, for my whole system...


----------



## aaron313

The 303 is a damn fine headphone. If bought directly from Japan, it is an incredible value. ~$350 (or less on ebay) for it is just phenomenal in my opinion.


----------



## Headdie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 303 is a damn fine headphone._

 

Thanks and what about the SRM-323 ?

 BTW, does DLIII stands for DIYEDEN LILO III ?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What can I expect going from a Denon D2000 to a Stax SR-303? Less bass I guess, but a significant improvement somewhere else?_

 

I think that's a fair statement. And while the bass might be less, you may like it better,

  Quote:


 Would SR-303 be enough to experience a significant improvement? 
 

IMO, without a doubt.


----------



## twestby

Is break-in an issue w/ Stax cans or is it typically limited to dynamics? IF it is an issue, to what extent? I have 150+ hrs on SR-303/SRM-323II rig and I think SQ has been fairly consistent out of the box, however, I was listening to a little John Lee Hooker earlier this evening (the AcousTech Fantasy 45 "That's My Story" disk) and I swear to Buddha for several minutes there I was right in the studio with The Hook - I could practically see the spit hit the mic. So I thought I'd ask.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks and what about the SRM-323 ?

 BTW, does DLIII stands for DIYEDEN LILO III ?_

 

Well, for the price it is a good match for the 303 and Lambda Pro, but I would surmise that the 006, 007, KGSS, KGBH, GES, ES1 would do a better job. Once again, it is a good value.

 DLIII is Digital Link III.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Wow, so many comments about my recent mini-review on the Woo GES prototype and interconnects, not. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyway, it looks like I'll be holding onto this GES for a while, and eventually rolling tubes. That last 10-15% the GES offers over the SRM-1 makes a bigger difference than one would think. It is getting harder and harder to move the HE60 back to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, where the bass fades a bit and the treble is tipped up more vs the GES. The GES just sounds more balanced with the HE60 (and everything else), although I still enjoy the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-003 with the SRM-1. 

 So, can ANYONE suggest some good tubes that can be found at reasonable prices, for a future GES tube rolling review when I have the money? (I had to sell my Headphile HF-1, Headstage Lyrix, q-JAYS and Super.fi 5 Pro to get some of the money to get the GES - may have to sell more stuff for tubes later).


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is break-in an issue w/ Stax cans or is it typically limited to dynamics? IF it is an issue, to what extent? I have 150+ hrs on SR-303/SRM-323II rig and I think SQ has been fairly consistent out of the box, however, I was listening to a little John Lee Hooker earlier this evening (the AcousTech Fantasy 45 "That's My Story" disk) and I swear to Buddha for several minutes there I was right in the studio with The Hook - I could practically see the spit hit the mic. So I thought I'd ask._

 

I've seen some report anything up to 175 hours but whether that was amp or headphone or both is questionable because others have reported the headphones/earspeakers themselves needing very little 'settling' time (approx 20 hours).

 Regardless, it appears you are now getting that transparent 'realism' we all love in electrostats - go and enjoy it


----------



## SACD-Man

Boy I just received my 007 Mk2 with matching tube amp....

 WOW...thats all I can say right now!!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, can ANYONE suggest some good tubes that can be found at reasonable prices, for a future GES tube rolling review when I have the money? (I had to sell my Headphile HF-1, Headstage Lyrix, q-JAYS and Super.fi 5 Pro to get some of the money to get the GES - may have to sell more stuff for tubes later)._

 

There have been suggestions before but the two I've tried are:
TungSol 12AX7 ECC803S - they significantly improve on the sound of the standard Electro-Harmonix and I would have spent more time with them if I hadn't secured...
A set of matched NOS RCA 12BZ7s - no contest. These are IT for me (at least ATM). They make the GES sing with my HE60s, and I'll make time to try them with a variety of other electrostats as time permits.
From this limited experience I suggest aiming towards NOS (Yes, I know prices become an issue) and the alternatives to the standard 12AX7.

 Good luck with your search.


----------



## derekbmn

Look at it this way...pretty much any anything is better than the EH 12ax7s.
 The new production JJs would even be an improvement on the cheap.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Boy I just received my 007 Mk2 with matching tube amp....

 WOW...thats all I can say right now!!_

 

I am so sorry I did this to you by hooking you up with your first electrostatic rig. Now you've moved on to the hard stuff. Can you ever forgive me?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have been suggestions before but the two I've tried are:
TungSol 12AX7 ECC803S - they significantly improve on the sound of the standard Electro-Harmonix and I would have spent more time with them if I hadn't secured...
A set of matched NOS RCA 12BZ7s - no contest. These are IT for me (at least ATM). They make the GES sing with my HE60s, and I'll make time to try them with a variety of other electrostats as time permits.
From this limited experience I suggest aiming towards NOS (Yes, I know prices become an issue) and the alternatives to the standard 12AX7.

 Good luck with your search._

 

What about the "1 matched quad Ratheon 12BZ7 $64 (4 pcs)" from Jack's website? Are those the good ones you speak of? It does have the EH 12AX7 in it now.

 And, what about the stock 6S4 tubes (web site says 6S7)? What would you replace them with, if anything? Mine has Sylvanias 6S4A in it right now.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Boy I just received my 007 Mk2 with matching tube amp....

 WOW...thats all I can say right now!!_

 

Congrats! Enjoy your new musical experience.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Boy I just received my 007 Mk2 with matching tube amp....

 WOW...thats all I can say right now!!_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its a really nice system indeed.


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, so many comments about my recent mini-review on the Woo GES prototype and interconnects, not. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, it looks like I'll be holding onto this GES for a while, and eventually rolling tubes. That last 10-15% the GES offers over the SRM-1 makes a bigger difference than one would think. It is getting harder and harder to move the HE60 back to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, where the bass fades a bit and the treble is tipped up more vs the GES. The GES just sounds more balanced with the HE60 (and everything else), although I still enjoy the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-003 with the SRM-1. 

 So, can ANYONE suggest some good tubes that can be found at reasonable prices, for a future GES tube rolling review when I have the money? (I had to sell my Headphile HF-1, Headstage Lyrix, q-JAYS and Super.fi 5 Pro to get some of the money to get the GES - may have to sell more stuff for tubes later)._

 


 I am using NOS Sylvania 12ax7WA's, They are very detailed and open. Eventually I want to try some Telefunken's but the Sylvania's are very good.
 They were $40 each.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, so many comments about my recent mini-review on the Woo GES prototype and interconnects, not. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Does your prototype GES use the standard Solen coupling caps or does it have the upgraded Auricaps (or something else)? Just curious since the Solens seem to get such a bad rap. It would be good to know that they could sound good in the proper application.


----------



## Asr

I received my new OII MKII earlier today, yay! Looking forward to next weekend where I'll get to try it with the Singlepower ES-1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'd post a pic except I forgot my camera and laptop PC, will post one later.

 Now the anxious waiting begins for my HeadAmp Blue Hawaii SE....


----------



## tako_tsubo

The SRM 717....has landed....softly
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also got a 120v to 100v transformer as I knew I didn't want to wait for a time to set up the jumpers...I wanted to use this right away. Just from my initial listening with the SR 303...OMG! The A series srm1/mk2pro that I have are going into a box...


----------



## aaron313

^
 Not surprising.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does your prototype GES use the standard Solen coupling caps or does it have the upgraded Auricaps (or something else)? Just curious since the Solens seem to get such a bad rap. It would be good to know that they could sound good in the proper application._

 

The caps are all standard on this one. 

 The current standard model at $1450 is supposedly a small upgrade to this prototype, and it is another $680 to upgrade the current model to the Auricaps and Mills resistors = $2130 maxed. It will be too difficult to upgrade this post production amp because of space limitations, and I am not going to pay to strip the insides out and replace them from scratch for a 5-10% improvement. It would be more cost effective to start from the beginning, and I don't have that kind of money, so a Maxed GES is not in my furture. I do see new tubes in my crystal ball...

 The main external differences that I can see with this one is the headphone socket is a different brand from the current production, and the switch to go between the two sets of RCA inputs is a different brand, but the 12AX7 Electro Harmonix tubes seem to be current production. I also have Sylvania 6S4 in the rear, instead of the Tung Sol on the website. Internally I am sure there are other differences, that I haven't quantified yet.

 However, the sound is good enough to have me seriously wondering if I should sell my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and an SR-5NB gold or SR-001 portable to help me get the money for the current model instead of this prototype. It's also good enough that I could be happy with it just the way it is, and not need an upgrade or any of my normal bias rigs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











 Nahhhh...


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRM 717....has landed....softly
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also got a 120v to 100v transformer as I knew I didn't want to wait for a time to set up the jumpers...I wanted to use this right away. Just from my initial listening with the SR 303...OMG! The A series srm1/mk2pro that I have are going into a box..._

 

The Srm1mk2pro is a very good amp so don't put it in a box unless you just want to keep it for a backup. Sell it for those others just getting into the Stax world. It is really an entry level drug.


----------



## tako_tsubo




----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Srm1mk2pro is a very good amp so don't put it in a box unless you just want to keep it for a backup. Sell it for those others just getting into the Stax world. It is really an entry level drug._

 

Great advice!
 I did put my SRM-1/MK2 away for 1 1/2 year. Until a few weeks ago when I decided to let it go to a new home. Let someone else enjoy it, instead of letting it dust in my closet.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great advice!
 I did put my SRM-1/MK2 away for 1 1/2 year. Until a few weeks ago when I decided to let it go to a new home. Let someone else enjoy it, instead of letting it dust in my closet._

 

Yep, that's why I sold my dusty old spare SRM-1 Mk2 Pro to Slwiser, who got hooked and bought a KGSS and SR-007, and he then passed the SRM-1 on to antonyfirst. It was in my basement rig and rarely used, so I figured I could just use my SRD-7SB or SRD-X with the low bias phones down there. 

 I have one SRM-1 Mk2 pro left that I have been using in my main rig, and I love it with my low bias phones and my SR-003 and Sigs. But I wonder if now that I am planning on owning the/a GES if I should pass the SRM-1 onto another head-fier. The SRD-X with SR-Lambda actually sounds pretty good when driven by my Maxed Woo WA6 tube amp with pseudo dual power supply, or even when fed right out of the Apogee mini-DAC 1/4" out as well.


----------



## slwiser

I am putting up for sale this weekend a SR-Gamma Pro and a SRX-1 Mk3 normal bias. So either of these would go well with the SRM-1 that is being spoken about here. These would be a great entry level into the Stax world.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, I pulled out the SRD-X and hooked to my main rig three different ways, and compared the SRD-X to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with my SR-5NB gold edition.

 With the SRD-X connected to the 1/4" of the Marantz the highs are a little strident and the bass is a little recessed. With it connected to the Apogee mini-DAC 1/4" out it sounds much more balanced, but maybe still just a little harsh in the highs. With it connected to the WA6 1/4" out it sounds richer and warmer and sounds mellower of the three, but there is still that last bit of micro-detail missing with the SRD-X.

 Connecting the SR-5NB to the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is like magic. They are a match made in heaven. Deep bass, crisp treble, transparent, fun, rich, warm, airy, all mixed into one tasty dish. Now how can I possibly part with it?


----------



## slwiser

I have found that Stax synergy lives as strongly as in any other setup. You are exactly right that some Stax match-ups are magic.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have doing more listening A/B with other stuff, listening to some Jack Johnson right now.

 I have to say this SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with SR-5NB gold edition ($650) seems to really give my APS V3 re-cabled RS-1 with Woo WA6 maxed out amp ($1800) a real run for the money! I think I may actually prefer the Stax better, although they are slightly more forward than the RS-1, but the sound is so mesmerizing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does that make me an official member of the Stax Mafia?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The WA6 is my best amp for the RS-1 as far as synergy goes, followed by the TTVJ portable millet hybrid tube amp. I just had two other people here in the house pick which they liked the most - the Stax rig or the RS-1 rig. 

 One of those peeps was my 10 yr old son who has his own SR-Lambda and SRD-5 (and SRD-X) and his own Headstage Lyrix Pro amp with Alessandro MS-1 headphones. I made him close his eyes so he wouldn't know what he was listening to.

 Everyone picked the SR-5NB with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro as the better sounding rig.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have doing more listening A/B with other stuff, listening to some Jack Johnson right now.

 I have to say this SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with SR-5NB gold edition ($650) seems to really give my APS V3 re-cabled RS-1 with Woo WA6 maxed out amp ($1800) a real run for the money! I think I may actually prefer the Stax better, although they are slightly more forward than the RS-1, but the sound is so mesmerizing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does that make me an official member of the Stax Mafia?_

 

There is no Stax Mafia....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no Stax Mafia...._

 

Okay, I think I understand, mea culpa...


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 One of those peeps was my 10 yr old son who has his own SR-Lambda and SRD-5 (and SRD-X) and his own Headstage Lyrix Pro amp with Alessandro MS-1 headphones. I made him close his eyes so he wouldn't know what he was listening to. 
 

The SR-5 and RS-1 feel quite different on the ears, don't they? <_<


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 and RS-1 feel quite different on the ears, don't they? <_<_

 

Yeah, but since he hasn't listened to my RS-1 with bowls before he couldn't know what they were with his eyes closed when I put them on. He doesn't know any of my phones well enough to have any idea what I put on him, unless I put Lambdas or HD600 on his head - he knows those right away.


----------



## SACD-Man

I can't wait to contribute to this thread!!

 I have talked to slwiser on other amp options and I'm seriously thinking about his setup!!

 On a different note, what is someone experiences with burn-in time?? I'm going through the normal burn-in and boy does it help!!

 Keep in mind i have a new set of SR-007mk2 and the matching tube amp. 

 Any set standard??


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't wait to contribute to this thread!!

 I have talked to slwiser on other amp options and I'm seriously thinking about his setup!!

 On a different note, what is someone experiences with burn-in time?? I'm going through the normal burn-in and boy does it help!!

 Keep in mind i have a new set of SR-007mk2 and the matching tube amp. 

 Any set standard??_

 

I love to see how many more people are getting into Stax these days. In a perfect world, we would all listen to the O2.


----------



## SACD-Man

amen.....


----------



## bjarnetv

just tried out the newly fixed sigmas on my new amp, and hot damn, i cant remember them being such bass monsters!
 now im afraid of trying it with the jecklins, since they already had braindamaging amounts of bass driven by a puny t-amp


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love to see how many more people are getting into Stax these days. In a perfect world, we would all listen to the O2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Guess I live in a perfect world then. Cause I listen to an O2...


----------



## blumenco

hey, the stax offerings, especially the lower end stuff just struck me as a good value.

 It is occuring to me now, actually, that I did not in fact get to listen to the 303. hmm...

 two headphones to track down, 303 and koss 950.

 back to "akiba"

 -Clark


----------



## Covenant

Hey guys, is there anywhere I could get a rundown on the various Stax models and how they fit into the lineup sonically? I've listened to the O2 on a few occasions and have a good idea what it sounds like, but i've no clue about the other models in the Stax lineup.

 I was having a browse of some of the systems available at yamasinc.com and noticed the SRM-310 driver for the first time. I personally think this is a very stylish deviation from the normal shoe-box Stax energiser and love the way it doubles as a headphone stand:






 But I have no clue how it would sound, if the reccomended pairing of SR-202 earspeakers are any good, and so forth. Information about Stax is somewhat daunting to try unearthing - usually buried in huge threads like this. Can anyone point me to a primer or two? Cheers


----------



## Asr

As reported yesterday, my Stax SR-007 MKII has arrived, and I now have pics.


----------



## penger

They added a nice touch with the angling of the cables.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As reported yesterday, my Stax SR-007 MKII has arrived, and I now have pics.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...x/o2mk2_x1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...x/o2mk2_x2.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...x/o2mk2_x3.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...x/o2mk2_x4.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...x/o2mk2_x5.jpg_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-007MKII sure looks great. More stylish in all black, than the black/silver SR-007A imo..

 Enjoy!


----------



## SACD-Man

I received mi
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




ne last week and the cable management is a VERY nice touch...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *penger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They added a nice touch with the angling of the cables._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *penger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They added a nice touch with the angling of the cables._

 

The Mk1 had the same system so it was new in 1998... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do prefer the SR-Omega system with the flexible strain relief and the cables far from the head.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Good one ASR. The Colorado Stax team is growing!!!


----------



## rsbrsvp

Heres a bit of a stranger question. Does anybody out there know of anyone competent besides SP who can take my ES-1 and take it out of its current chasis while replanting it in a nicer heavier chasis?


 Thanks...


----------



## The Monkey

Does anyone know from where Stax sources its flight cases?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know from where Stax sources its flight cases?_

 

I don't know where they get them but I've seen the same cases (the finish and materials used confirm this) housing a number of things like binoculars and tools.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know from where Stax sources its flight cases?_

 

Would a Pellican brand case fit your needs? I am very happy w/ my 1200 to carry my RS-1. Good luck.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is break-in an issue w/ Stax cans or is it typically limited to dynamics? IF it is an issue, to what extent? I have 150+ hrs on SR-303/SRM-323II rig and I think SQ has been fairly consistent out of the box, however, I was listening to a little John Lee Hooker earlier this evening (the AcousTech Fantasy 45 "That's My Story" disk) and I swear to Buddha for several minutes there I was right in the studio with The Hook - I could practically see the spit hit the mic. So I thought I'd ask._

 

I think that warm-up is a bigger and continuing issue with most stats. You need about 45 minutes of use with an actual signal, not just being left on, to sound best. I personally leave my phones plugged into their amps even when they are switched off.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would a Pellican brand case fit your needs? I am very happy w/ my 1200 to carry my RS-1. Good luck._

 

Yeah, probably. I like the Pelican cases. Good to know that the 1200 fits the RS-1. Is there room to spare?


----------



## Akabeth

Forgive me, but from my time reading this thread and others... I have yet to see much about burn-in experience with the Stax headphones...

 Do the membranes benefit from burn-in time (like dynamics) or is there none to negligible to begin with at all? Low end maybe atleast?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have been suggestions before but the two I've tried are:
TungSol 12AX7 ECC803S - they significantly improve on the sound of the standard Electro-Harmonix and I would have spent more time with them if I hadn't secured...
A set of matched NOS RCA 12BZ7s - no contest. These are IT for me (at least ATM). They make the GES sing with my HE60s, and I'll make time to try them with a variety of other electrostats as time permits.
From this limited experience I suggest aiming towards NOS (Yes, I know prices become an issue) and the alternatives to the standard 12AX7.

 Good luck with your search._

 

What about the "1 matched quad Ratheon 12BZ7 $64 (4 pcs)" from Jack's website? Are those any good? I do have the EH 12AX7 in the GES now.

 And, what about the stock 6S4 tubes (web site says 6S7)? What would you replace them with, if anything? Mine has Sylvanias 6S4A in it right now.

 Also, what about those Cryo Treated Mullard clones made in Russia, or Cryo Treated JJ's?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forgive me, but from my time reading this thread and others... I have yet to see much about burn-in experience with the Stax headphones...
 Do the membranes benefit from burn-in time (like dynamics) or is there none to negligible to begin with at all?_

 

There is an audible burn-in effect.
 I've once auditiones an older and a brand new pair of SR-303s in direct comparison and they did sound differently.
 After a while I met the guy with the older pair again, and then they did sound the same.
 I don't know how many hours are sufficient.To be on the safe side I let play anything new continously for 10 days.240 hours are probably way more than needed but who cares?
 I've read somewhere the burn-in effect regarding electrostats is due to micro wrinkles that have to stretch out.I don't know whether that's true or not. At least even some Stax distributors (in contrast to european manufacturers of dynamic cans) claim an audible burn-in effect but don't bother to explain how it works.


----------



## Tachikoma

The highs improved the most with burn-in, in my experience (a NOS SR-Xmk3). There's still some way to go before it will compare with any of my other headphones though...


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRM 717....has landed....softly
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I also got a 120v to 100v transformer as I knew I didn't want to wait for a time to set up the jumpers...I wanted to use this right away. Just from my initial listening with the SR 303...OMG! The A series srm1/mk2pro that I have are going into a box..._

 

Be very careful with these transformers. I had BIG problems using 3 different transformers with my 727 and all they were disastrous to the sound!
 I think the rewiring is compulsory.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Thanks brat...yes I plan to make the jumper changes. I just wanted to be able to check things out and hear that the unit was working. So far sounding good, can only sound better with the transformer out of the line.


----------



## fpsoft1

Aaron313, differences between Sennheiser HD650 and Stax 313?


----------



## Tachikoma

Differences between a dynamic headphone and an electrostatic amp?


----------



## fpsoft1

Sorry, i meant differences between Sennheiser HD650 and Stax SRS3050 System. aaron313 told me that he would write a review.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, is there anywhere I could get a rundown on the various Stax models and how they fit into the lineup sonically?

 Information about Stax is somewhat daunting to try unearthing - usually buried in huge threads like this. Can anyone point me to a primer or two? Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No one? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hasnt anyone put together any sort of compendium or guide? I nominate spritzer!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No one? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hasnt anyone put together any sort of compendium or guide? I nominate spritzer! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just PM'd you a compendium, without knowing you were in here. I guarantee that I was at least 80% correct in what I wrote to you...


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just PM'd you a compendium, without knowing you were in here. I guarantee that I was at least 80% correct in what I wrote to you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll go over it like a religious text tomorrow


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The highs improved the most with burn-in, in my experience (a NOS SR-Xmk3). There's still some way to go before it will compare with any of my other headphones though..._

 

My experience with both electrostatic phones and speakers is that most of the difference is in the lower frequencies. When a electrostatic is new the diaphragm is quite taut. When the diaphragm is too taut it raises the fundamental resonance and gives a upper bass lower midrange congestion. After break in the tension in the diaphragm will settle down and stabilize. The bass becomes deeper and the congestion disappears. This is most noticeable on the O2 & O2II. Some companies like Martin-Logan use to put low frequency tones into their speakers (model CLS) to break them in before shipment. 

 It can also take some time for the high voltage bias to migrate over the entire diaphragm. I find this to be a longer process on speakers than headphones. The old Quad ESL can take days to come up to full charge. During this charging cycle all sorts of sonic anomalies can occur. Also full efficiency isn’t realized until a full charge occurs.


----------



## ShaolinRasta

Well, it's been a great many months since I last posted on head-fi, and I'm sad to say that my beloved Stax gear hasn't had much of a workout at all in that time. For a myriad of reasons, I've pretty made a complete switch over to speakers, which just fit my lifestyle these days so much more than headphones do.

 I figure on selling off all of my headphone gear over the next week or so, but thought that the folks who read and post on this thread should get the first opportunity at snagging some of it. I'd really like for the stuff to find happy homes with owners who will give the equipment the use it deserves. Anyone who's interested should PM or email me.

 I've already made arrangements with a respected headfier for a new home for the KGSS DX, and have disbursed all the cans to others. All I've got left are misc accessories like a FidAudio Quintete 3-input/2-output switchbox and a PS Audio UPC-200 unit. Already sold are my O2 mk1's in near-mint condition, a pair of Lambda Pro's in very good condition (w/ typical missing foam), SR-X mkIII w/ SRD-7, Stax extension cable (pro bias), and Stax wooden headphone stand.

 It's been a real pleasure hanging out here with my fellow Staxheads over the years. Things change, as do people, so this is pretty much where my headphone journey ends...stick a fork in me, I'm done. Where do I turn in my Stax membership card?


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* 
_Well, it's been a great many months since I last posted on head-fi, and I'm sad to say that my beloved Stax gear hasn't had much of a workout at all in that time. For a myriad of reasons, I've pretty made a complete switch over to speakers, which just fit my lifestyle these days so much more than headphones do._

 

Sorry to hear that, but on the other hand it's always nice when people discover new paths on their journey.


----------



## blumenco

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, i meant differences between Sennheiser HD650 and Stax SRS3050 System. aaron313 told me that he would write a review._

 

Yes, I would be very interested to read this. I posted before incorrectly, but in my visit to the "akiba" store in Tokyo last weekend, (and now this weekend), the 303 was MIA. it was actually two different pairs of 202 that were there. I politely and quickly put both of them down in favor of the other stax phones. They were nice, but not it for me.

 I have seen that some people prefer the 303 to the 404? very interesting. why? (I have not yet heard the 303, so it is only curiousity.)

 Also, Re: changing from headphones to speakers? Well, this happens for some people. I think that both types of systems have their place...

 -Clark


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...The bass becomes deeper and the congestion disappears. This is most noticeable on the O2 & O2II. ..._

 

My Omegas Mk2 have about 200hrs and they just do not reproduce deep bass (roughly 25Hz and below). I don't believe it's a burn-in issue.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omegas Mk2 have about 200hrs and they just do not reproduce deep bass (roughly 25Hz and below). I don't believe it's a burn-in issue._

 

It's due to the port, the same as with all port loaded speakers. Plug the port and the bass is returned but they aren't as good as the Mk1.


----------



## SACD-Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Omegas Mk2 have about 200hrs and they just do not reproduce deep bass (roughly 25Hz and below). I don't believe it's a burn-in issue._

 

I have about 160~ hours and things are opening up...what amp are you using??


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fpsoft1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, i meant differences between Sennheiser HD650 and Stax SRS3050 System. aaron313 told me that he would write a review._

 

I'll give quick and dirty impressions:

 Speed: Stax wins by a factor of 10. 650 is like an 18-wheeler, and 303 is like a motorcycle.

 Highs: Stax by a mile. Crystal clear and nicely filled out. Perhaps borderline sibilant in some cases, whereas there is absolutely no sibilance in the 650. Recording dependent.

 Mids: Stax wins here, but 650 is no slouch.

 Bass: Stax again, but the bass is nothing like the 650's. Very tight and controlled and accurate. Only thing is that it does not hit tremendously hard. It hits hard enough for me, though. The 303 is certainly no K701, but it's not a Darth Beyer.

 Texture of sounds: Stax destroys the 650. Subtleties in vocals are unmatched by the 650. This might be one of the most unexpected and underrated qualities of electrostatics.

 Imaging: Stax by far. Sounds are distinctly located, whereas an improperly driven 650 lets the sounds blend together in space. Properly driven, the 650 has good imaging. Maybe the most noticeable thing for me is that the Stax places the vocalist in his/her own zone, dead center generally (where it's supposed to be). There is a clear demarcation between the vocals and the instruments.

 Soundstage: Stax has a wider soundstage, more comparable to the K701, while the 650 has a fairly narrow stage.

 Comfort: Both are world-class in this regard.

 Overall: The 303 is pretty much the opposite of the 650, and is superior to my ears in every way (imo). The 3050 system is a tremendous value at $900, purchased from Japan. I can only imagine how great the 303 sounds out of a KGSS or BH. This is a great introductory electrostat, and makes it obvious why Stax calls their products "earspeakers," as opposed to headphones.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ShaolinRasta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For a myriad of reasons, I've pretty made a complete switch over to speakers, which just fit my lifestyle these days so much more than headphones do...It's been a real pleasure hanging out here with my fellow Staxheads over the years. Things change, as do people, so this is pretty much where my headphone journey ends...stick a fork in me, I'm done. Where do I turn in my Stax membership card?_

 

Glad you've found your niche in HiFi listening and doubly glad you got to enjoy some great electrostat sound as part of your journey.

 Best wishes on your continuing journey, which sounds as if it will be less focussed on the equipment and more focussed on the diversity of recordings and music styles out there to be relished. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 P.S. If you read the fine print on the membership card you'll see the word 'lifetime' written next to the word 'membership'. i.e. we know we'll see you around again so hang onto the card.


----------



## PeterDLai

Hey aaron313,

 If you have the time, could you write something up like what you just did except between the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-303?

 I want to know what I'm going to be missing out on.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PeterDLai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey aaron313,

 If you have the time, could you write something up like what you just did except between the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-303?

 I want to know what I'm going to be missing out on. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That'll take a bit more time.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Texture of sounds: Stax destroys the 650. Subtleties in vocals are unmatched by the 650. This might be one of the most unexpected and underrated qualities of electrostatics._

 

"Unexpected"? While I agree with your findings, it is completely and utterly expected that the extremely low-mass 'stat diaphragm will much better track tiny, micro-fluctuations and micro-dynamics and uncover the "texture" that's oh so often buried under the...you know


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Unexpected"? While I agree with your findings, it is completely and utterly expected that the extremely low-mass 'stat diaphragm will much better track tiny, micro-fluctuations and micro-dynamics and uncover the "texture" that's oh so often buried under the...you know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What I meant was not that _I_ was surprised, but that it is something we don't talk enough about, so when somebody listens to electrostats for the first time, they may have previously overlooked the treatment of vocals, and been surprised. We spend so much time talking about guitars, bass, and cymbals, that we overlook the vocals at times. I've seen vocals talked about in the music forum, but not too much in these parts.


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That'll take a bit more time._

 

Sure thing, take your time! Thanks again.


----------



## twestby

I have recabled all of my dynamic cans, with generally positive results. I've made a few inquiries with the usual suspects (e.g., Moon Audio) re recabling Stax. Haven't found anyone interested. The problem appears to be that the Stax 5/6-conductor pin config is rare enough in HeadphoneLand that no one has found it economical yet to invest in making a product with a sufficiently professional appearance/performance/reliability. Anyone have a different experience? Anyone feel that we're lacking in any regard by not being able to spend thousands on cables that block interference from alien spacecraft?

 TIA,

 -Tim


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haven't found anyone interested. The problem appears to be that the Stax 5/6-conductor pin config is rare enough in HeadphoneLand that no one has found it economical yet to invest in making a product with a sufficiently professional appearance/performance/reliability. Anyone have a different experience?_

 

Alex from APureSound mentioned he was working on an electrostatic headphone cable. You might want to shoot him a PM or email


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alex from APureSound mentioned he was working on an electrostatic headphone cable. You might want to shoot him a PM or email 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Grazie Covenant, will do!

 -Tim


----------



## twestby

Somebody do a noob a favor and gimme 50 words on why I should spring 4+ large to replace my 303/323ii rig ... before Yama's (or TTVJ?) quits taking orders for the day ...


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somebody do a noob a favor and gimme 50 words on why I should spring 4+ large to replace my 303/323ii rig ... before Yama's (or TTVJ?) quits taking orders for the day ..._

 

w/ the OII/tube, that is ...

 TIA,

 -Tim


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone feel that we're lacking in any regard by not being able to spend thousands on cables that block interference from alien spacecraft?
 -Tim_

 

If it makes you feel any better, wrap your cable in aluminium foil.

  Quote:


 Somebody do a noob a favor and gimme 50 words on why I should spring 4+ large to replace my 303/323ii rig ... before Yama's (or TTVJ?) quits taking orders for the day ... 
 

I'll do it in one word. Don't. There's so much more to the stax world than just the starter SR-303 and the top of the line O2.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it makes you feel any better, wrap your cable in aluminium foil.

 A most wise (if somewhat unexpected) response, in line with my own preferences. Therefore, I choose to agree. 


 I'll do it in one word. Don't. There's so much more to the stax world than just the starter SR-303 and the top of the line O2._

 

Again, a vastly more considered (and considerate) response than I had any right to expect. Apologies for my impatience, and great thanks, to Tachikoma and the list. My accelerating decrepitude requires acquiring the O2 before fully appreciating its development via full exposure to the earlier product lines. Cross your fingers that my appreciation for the O2 isn't consequently stunted. I greatly value all y'all's impressions previously reported here.

 TIA,

 -Tim


----------



## blumenco

Thanks so much for that review. I owned the 650s for a long time, among several other phones, and I have heard in detail most notable dynamic phones in production as of a few years ago. Needless to say, I grew steadily dissatisfied with all of them, and all their problems. 

 In light of my current work, maybe I should start designing a field coil headphone? JayKay... really. don't hold your breath on this one!

 There are some great dynamic phones out there, but now, I am on the long search for an electrostat (or two) that is worthy of building a killer DIY amp for. Maybe in a year, Ill have a system.

 Yes, a basic comparo between the lambda pro and the 404 and the 303 would be very nice to read, but really, no worries on the time. Thanks so much for the efforts!

 -Clark


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll do it in one word. Don't. There's so much more to the stax world than just the starter SR-303 and the top of the line O2._

 

What's wrong with going straightly to the top? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It only saves money


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's wrong with going straightly to the top? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It only saves money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nothing I would say.
 I went straight from iPod and Grado SR80 to Electrocompaniet ECD1, SRM-007t and SR-007BL. Smartest move ever imo.


----------



## fpsoft1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll give quick and dirty impressions:_

 

Thank you very much, you've been very kind and precise.

 Did you buy it from PriceJapan? After how much time did it arrive?


----------



## Oublie

So here i am swamped with piece of kit. My desk looks like a electronics graveyard. I have a ps1 (due for a psu mod) 2 srd7's, an srd 4, a fantastic nad 3020b amp and a zero dac (due for a new transformer), computer monitor, keyboard, mouse, dip chip puller, screwdrivers etc etc etc....

 I want to tidy my system and put all the stuff onto a shelf above my desk out of the way but before i do i want to keep one of the srd'7 on the desk as my headphone output. Now being a lazy sod and not wanting to exert myself by standing up to adjust the volume would it be viable to swap out the earspeaker loudspeaker switch for a pot?

 What im thinking is rather than on off, i could put in a stereo pot connected to the left and right connectors for the stax headphone out prior to the point where it changes voltage to the pro and normal connectors this way i can move everything where i want and just run some decent speaker cable from the nad to the srd?

 What do you guys think? Is this viable and if so what type of pot would your recommend? With my current setup if i control attenuation via the Nad's pot or the Zero Dac Pot i cant put the volume above about 10 o'clock before it is just too loud to listen to.

 This would allow me to clear my desk mostly and find a use for the front of the srd - i don't use speakers anymore so the switch is currently just an on off for me.

 Thanks.

 btw. i know this is more of a diy thing but due to the volts etc on electrostats i thought you guys would be more likely to have an idea.


----------



## scompton

Someone went a little nuts for an SR-3
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





VINTAGE STAX ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES EAR SPEAKER SR-3 - eBay (item 320273039706 end time Jul-21-08 12:00:00 PDT)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So here i am swamped with piece of kit. My desk looks like a electronics graveyard. I have a ps1 (due for a psu mod) 2 srd7's, an srd 4, a fantastic nad 3020b amp and a zero dac (due for a new transformer), computer monitor, keyboard, mouse, dip chip puller, screwdrivers etc etc etc....

 I want to tidy my system and put all the stuff onto a shelf above my desk out of the way but before i do i want to keep one of the srd'7 on the desk as my headphone output. Now being a lazy sod and not wanting to exert myself by standing up to adjust the volume would it be viable to swap out the earspeaker loudspeaker switch for a pot?

 What im thinking is rather than on off, i could put in a stereo pot connected to the left and right connectors for the stax headphone out prior to the point where it changes voltage to the pro and normal connectors this way i can move everything where i want and just run some decent speaker cable from the nad to the srd?

 What do you guys think? Is this viable and if so what type of pot would your recommend? With my current setup if i control attenuation via the Nad's pot or the Zero Dac Pot i cant put the volume above about 10 o'clock before it is just too loud to listen to.

 This would allow me to clear my desk mostly and find a use for the front of the srd - i don't use speakers anymore so the switch is currently just an on off for me.

 Thanks.

 btw. i know this is more of a diy thing but due to the volts etc on electrostats i thought you guys would be more likely to have an idea._

 

You could put a pot instead of the switch but it makes no sense to attenuate after the signal has been amplified. A normal pot would never do and I don't know where you would find a high power log pot as it needs to be able to dissipate quite a lot of heat. 

 There is no voltage change for the Pro and Normal bias outputs as the bias is completely independent of the drive voltages generated in the transformers.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could put a pot instead of the switch but it makes no sense to attenuate after the signal has been amplified. A normal pot would never do and I don't know where you would find a high power log pot as it needs to be able to dissipate quite a lot of heat. 

 There is no voltage change for the Pro and Normal bias outputs as the bias is completely independent of the drive voltages generated in the transformers._

 

I figured there might be an issue with attentuating the volts after the tranformation from 580 to 240 volts on the bias 

 looks like i'll have to get out of my chair 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks Spritzer - the font of all electrostatic knowledge


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SACD-Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have about 160~ hours and things are opening up...what amp are you using??_

 

SRM-727II. But it's the headphones not the amp.
 In fact I don't feel any burn-in effect. If there is some it's minimal.
 I'm waiting the 500hrs point (as the guy from STAX USA told me). The _high-end_ is near.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I figured there might be an issue with attentuating the volts after the tranformation from 580 to 240 volts on the bias 

 looks like i'll have to get out of my chair 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thanks Spritzer - the font of all electrostatic knowledge 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

One thing you could do is get a cheap speaker volume control, which is basically a huge volume pot and put it before the SRD-7. I have no idea who would sell one but I've seen them in use from time to time. 

 Btw. That bit about the bias made no sense. The bias is produced from AC in the bias supply and it is always a constant. What does change is the voltage on the stators which is stepped up in the transformers.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing you could do is get a cheap speaker volume control, which is basically a huge volume pot and put it before the SRD-7. I have no idea who would sell one but I've seen them in use from time to time. 

 Btw. That bit about the bias made no sense. The bias is produced from AC in the bias supply and it is always a constant. What does change is the voltage on the stators which is stepped up in the transformers._

 

I thought bias was dc and was constant but at either 240 or 580 volt dependant on whether the phones are pro or normal bias but only a few milliamps - I think i need to read some stuff again so i'm clear.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought bias was dc and was constant but at either 240 or 580 volt dependant on whether the phones are pro or normal bias but only a few milliamps - I think i need to read some stuff again so i'm clear._

 

That is correct but the amp has no bearing on the bias and it isn't tied to the volume level. You can use the drive voltages to generate the bias as is done in the SB units but it acts just like the AC voltage from a wall.


----------



## Oublie

Got it, thanks Spritzer


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone went a little nuts for an SR-3
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





VINTAGE STAX ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES EAR SPEAKER SR-3 - eBay (item 320273039706 end time Jul-21-08 12:00:00 PDT)_

 

Yeah, thats certainly on the expensive side.


----------



## SACD-Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRM-727II. But it's the headphones not the amp.
 In fact I don't feel any burn-in effect. If there is some it's minimal.
 I'm waiting the 500hrs point (as the guy from STAX USA told me). The high-end is near. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Makes sense...mine are opening up nicely!!


----------



## The Monkey

I'd like to try the 727.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nothing I would say.
 I went straight from iPod and Grado SR80 to Electrocompaniet ECD1, SRM-007t and SR-007BL. Smartest move ever imo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanx, THAT'S what my wallet was waiting for ...!


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's wrong with going straightly to the top? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It only saves money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's what I'm thinkin'. Occasionally people who took the Hard Road look at you funny, like THEIR dues oughtta affect YOUR hearing ... but that's about it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanx, THAT'S what my wallet was waiting for ...!_

 

You're most welcome!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, thats certainly on the expensive side._

 

The days of bargain priced entry-level Stax on E-bay are long gone. It's a testiment to the quality and reliability of the early models that many try them even though you can buy some new units eg SR003 for the same or less. 

 Of course in some countries, such as the UK, prices are higher and this may look like a bargain by their reckining.


----------



## Asr

What's a good cheap amp for OII MKII and SR-X MKIII that I can use until I get my Blue Hawaii SE? Because I just bought an SR-X MKIII too....damn the Stax curse!


----------



## GuyMe

My Beyerdynamic ET-1000 came today, it's quite clear and graceful. It's my first stat though I've listened to some orthodynamics, there's this unique sense that everything is seperated into it's own section without any blurring between instruments. 

 I'm also quite satisfied with the bass response, I was expecting something totally puny. It's a bit less impactful than my K400, but there is certainly some good punch to drums.

 My only worry is the warnings about damage from listening too loud, I'm scared if I listen at my usual levels I'll destroy it. How loud can these go before there's risk of damage? I should probably be more concerned about damage to my eardrums but meh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The days of bargain priced entry-level Stax on E-bay are long gone. It's a testiment to the quality and reliability of the early models that many try them even though you can buy some new units eg SR003 for the same or less. 

 Of course in some countries, such as the UK, prices are higher and this may look like a bargain by their reckining._

 

I think the reason for high prices for old Stax is in part based on the fact that many prefer how old Stax models sound. Norman bias SR-Lambda is a perfect example. I read on numerous occasions that it's still considers one the the best lambda models ever made.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Beyerdynamic ET-1000 came today, it's quite clear and graceful. It's my first stat though I've listened to some orthodynamics, there's this unique sense that everything is seperated into it's own section without any blurring between instruments. 

 I'm also quite satisfied with the bass response, I was expecting something totally puny. It's a bit less impactful than my K400, but there is certainly some good punch to drums.

 My only worry is the warnings about damage from listening too loud, I'm scared if I listen at my usual levels I'll destroy it. How loud can these go before there's risk of damage? I should probably be more concerned about damage to my eardrums but meh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

You are running a higher bias then it was designed for and there is no protection circuit on the phones but you will be fine on any sane levels.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The days of bargain priced entry-level Stax on E-bay are long gone. It's a testiment to the quality and reliability of the early models that many try them even though you can buy some new units eg SR003 for the same or less. 

 Of course in some countries, such as the UK, prices are higher and this may look like a bargain by their reckining._

 

That particular SR-3 went for twice as much as the last 3, including one by the same seller. I recently bought an SR-3 with and SRD-5 for $115. In the spring, I bought a SR-Gamma for $125 and a Magnavox SR-3 clone for $1.50. Bargains are available.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's a good cheap amp for OII MKII and SR-X MKIII that I can use until I get my Blue Hawaii SE? Because I just bought an SR-X MKIII too....damn the Stax curse! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

If I buy the MKII before I get the BHSE, I'll use my 323A. But in the words of Grawk, it will sound "amazingly bad."


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I meant was not that I was surprised, but that it is something we don't talk enough about, so when somebody listens to electrostats for the first time, they may have previously overlooked the treatment of vocals, and been surprised. We spend so much time talking about guitars, bass, and cymbals, that we overlook the vocals at times. I've seen vocals talked about in the music forum, but not too much in these parts._

 

Another aspect not commented on much is that the articulation of individual voices/instruments or speech is generally much better with stats. I think that opera is one of the most demanding types of material to record and play back well, and when you have 6 soloists and a chorus belting it out as in Lucia Di Lamermoor the ability to hear each part and even what they may be stating is one of the great benefits od stats.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the reason for high prices for old Stax is in part based on the fact that many prefer how old Stax models sound. Norman bias SR-Lambda is a perfect example. I read on numerous occasions that it's still considers one the the best lambda models ever made._

 


 A good point, I think the "collectors" (many from this site ) have moved into the old Stax market looking for their favorite oldie and pushing the prices up along the way.


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another aspect not commented on much is that the articulation of individual voices/instruments or speech is generally much better with stats. I think that opera is one of the most demanding types of material to record and play back well, and when you have 6 soloists and a chorus belting it out as in Lucia Di Lamermoor the ability to hear each part and even what they may be stating is one of the great benefits od stats._

 

Which reminds me: I still need to listen to "Because" on the Stax.


----------



## aaron313

This being my 1500th post, I had to make it in the Stax forum. I want to say that when I first came here several months ago, I never imagined that I would become part of the High-End crew so quickly. My wallet cringes, but my ears smile.

 -Aaron


----------



## Asr

Your 1500th post could have been more monumental if you had made it to coincide with something else, like a gear purchase or something...


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aaron313* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I buy the MKII before I get the BHSE, I'll use my 323A. But in the words of Grawk, it will sound "amazingly bad."_

 

It's beliefs like this that make certain people think that getting into the stax sound will mean that no less than a O2 mk1 or 2 and something beyond a maxed kgss is the only way to go. The SR 007 sounds pretty good using a srm1/mk2 pro, even underpowered, the 007 performs better than my prolines and the esw9....it is not "amazingly bad". Is the 323 really that bad of an amp? I did not get a chance to compare them, but the 323 outputs 400v, while the srm1mk2 outputs 370v so they will probably sound close. Even Headphoneaddict felt that the woo amp was only 15% better than the srm1/mk2 pro...yet costs 4 times as much. 
 The srm 717 that I just got outputs just 450v but really makes the SR007 the headphone that I had hoped it would be...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Everything has to be placed relative to a certain baseline that many just do not know where it is. I have been fortunate to be able to hear the Lambda sound and the Omega 2 sound from some good stax amps. And although the prices are going up, you can still get some good deals out there.

 Just don't think that that sigma pro for $800 on a'gon is one of them


----------



## goober-george

Anyone ever hear the stax srd-4 and sr80 pro headphones combo? Or have at least heard the stax sr80 pros? Can anyone comment on the SQ and what the going rate should be on those?


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Just don't think that that sigma pro for $800 on a'gon is one of them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well unfortunately this is the going rate for Sigma pros.....but the one on agon looks like SR-Sigma, not pro. I think it has gray body, pro has all black body.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Last Sigma pro I could find on the FS, was asking $600 and it didn't sell, I recently emailed the owner...but he wasn't interested in selling. the last normal bias Sigma on ebay went for $350. The OBO is the key on that one...it is difficult to tell the body color...doesn't have that super light gray of a normal bia, but its a dark pic. I thought we were talking "good deal"


----------



## aaron313

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your 1500th post could have been more monumental if you had made it to coincide with something else, like a gear purchase or something... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've had a pretty successful run of late, so perhaps I _will_ be making another gear purchase soon. You and boomana just had to go and get the O2 early, didn't you!


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A good point, I think the "collectors" (many from this site ) have moved into the old Stax market looking for their favorite oldie and pushing the prices up along the way._

 

I just sold a SRX-001 Mk3 normal bias and before I put into the box to ship I listened to it again. After listening I wondered if I had done the right thing it sounded so magical to me out of my T1S but it still would have been one to many headphones for me. Enjoy the SRX-001 Mk3 normal bias coming your way.


----------



## Tachikoma

You'll get one again eventually


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's a good cheap amp for OII MKII and SR-X MKIII that I can use until I get my Blue Hawaii SE? Because I just bought an SR-X MKIII too....damn the Stax curse! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I might be persuaded to part with at the CO regional meet this weekend. Bring cash.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's beliefs like this that make certain people think that getting into the stax sound will mean that no less than a O2 mk1 or 2 and something beyond a maxed kgss is the only way to go. The SR 007 sounds pretty good using a srm1/mk2 pro, even underpowered, the 007 performs better than my prolines and the esw9....it is not "amazingly bad". Is the 323 really that bad of an amp? I did not get a chance to compare them, but the 323 outputs 400v, while the srm1mk2 outputs 370v so they will probably sound close. Even Headphoneaddict felt that the woo amp was only 15% better than the srm1/mk2 pro...yet costs 4 times as much. 
 The srm 717 that I just got outputs just 450v but really makes the SR007 the headphone that I had hoped it would be...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Everything has to be placed relative to a certain baseline that many just do not know where it is. I have been fortunate to be able to hear the Lambda sound and the Omega 2 sound from some good stax amps. And although the prices are going up, you can still get some good deals out there.

 Just don't think that that sigma pro for $800 on a'gon is one of them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You are forgetting that I have a 3 yr old prototype that is not up to snuff vs todays current model's sound, and it has the not so good Electro Harmonix 12ZX7 in it. I just bought some upgraded 12BZ7 tubes, and I am about to spend an additional $600-750 to get an upgraded amp, and add a spare normal bias jack.


----------



## aaron313

Soon I won't have to worry if my amp is up to snuff.


----------



## Zuerst

Are there 3 different colors available for SR007 Omega II? Black, silver, and the more standard lightish gold?














 What's the best/cheapest place to get a new pair of Omega II?

 Is the stock amp that come with the Omega II ok? Or better out there for the price?

 Thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there 3 different colors available for SR007 Omega II? Black, silver, and the more standard lightish gold?

http://www.elusivedisc.com/images/STXSR007B-Large.jpg
http://www.yamasinc.com/images/sr007.jpg
http://ebay.joynetcafe.com/images/stax/sr-007a.jpg_

 

There are actually four (4) different SR-007 models.

*1997-2007*
 * SR-007 -> Brown leather/cable and champagne housing (picture)
 * SR-007BL -> Black leather/cable and champagne housing (picture of my pair)

*2007-*
 * SR-007A -> Black leather/cable and silver housing (picture)
 * SR-007MK2 -> Black leather/cable and black housing (picture)

 The two models from the same time frame are identical apart from color. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best/cheapest place to get a new pair of Omega II?_

 

"Best" -> May be a local dealer. Since you then can audition and handle them before buying. In addition you get a physical place where you can go back if you need warranty repairs or similar.
 Cheapest -> Most probably PriceJapan or EIFL for new. And the FS forum, AudiogoN or eBay for used.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the stock amp that come with the Omega II ok?_

 

The SR-007A and MK2 can be bought with both the SRM-727 or SRM-007t, in their corresponding A or MK2 model. I have heard neither of them. But are very pleased with my SRM-007t as a pair for the SR-007BL.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or better out there for the price?_

 

That depends on personal preference. But imo no...


----------



## Zuerst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
*2007-*
 * SR-007A -> Black leather/cable and silver housing (picture)
 * SR-007MK2 -> Black leather/cable and black housing (picture)

 The two models from the same time frame are identical apart from color. 



 The SR-007A and MK2 can be bought with both the SRM-727 or SRM-007t, in their corresponding A or MK2 model. I have heard neither of them. But are very pleased with my SRM-007t as a pair for the SR-007BL._

 

If the two model from a give time period are identical, why is the corresponding amp models? Just to match the colors (but will work for either or?)?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the two model from a give time period are identical, why is the corresponding amp models? Just to match the colors (but will work for either or?)?_

 

The "A" models are for the Japanese marked only. While the "MK2" are export (rest of the world). That goes for both the SR-007 and the amplifiers.
 They are all interchangeable, except for the fact that the "A" amplifiers accept 100 volt main power input only. While the "MK2" amplifiers accept the native voltage in the country its sold in, be it 110 volt or 230 volt.

 There were also two different colored amplifiers in the past. All black SRM-007t (like I have) for the SR-007BL and the regular champagne front/black chassis one for the SR-007.


----------



## Zuerst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The "A" models are for the Japanese marked only. While the "MK2" are export (rest of the world). That goes for both the SR-007 and the amplifiers.
 They are all interchangeable, except for the fact that the "A" amplifiers accept 100 volt main power input only. While the "MK2" amplifiers accept the native voltage in the country its sold in, be it 110 volt or 230 volt.

 There were also two different colored amplifiers in the past. All black SRM-007t (like I have) for the SR-007BL and the regular champagne front/black chassis one for the SR-007._

 

so someone that likes the silver color of the sr007a better but live in the US should probably go with the sr007a with the mk2 amp (a "regular" voltage transformer might compromise the sound quality a little?)?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zuerst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so someone that likes the silver color of the sr007a better but live in the US should probably go with the sr007a with the mk2 amp (a "regular" voltage transformer might compromise the sound quality a little?)?_

 

Right! Its always easier to handle a "native" main voltage amplifier, than going the route through a voltage transformer. That said, I don't know if a voltage transformer have any impact on the resulting sound quality.
 The headphones are fully interchangeable though. So pick the one that suite your taste or wallet the most.


----------



## Tachikoma

If you're handy with a soldering iron it _usually_ is possible to change the mains input on the amp, whatever the model.


----------



## tako_tsubo

There is a subtle degradation of the bass when using the transformers. Changing the mains input on the SR 717 was a piece of cake. Luckily it is just moving some jumpers practically next door to each other. Used a mosquito clamp from an old suture set...it was a snap. The jumpers are metal tubes shaped about the size of a fuse. Soldering would have been a chore as it it pretty tight back there.

 My point of the srm1/mk2pro was that it is not "amazingly bad". If you are interested in the Omega 2 and can afford it, but can only invest about $2000, the srm1 would be good...just work on the source input/preamping seems to add to the fullness of the sound and a neutral DAC like the Lavry helps to bring out the upper mids and the trebles. The Sr 717 for under $1000 is in a sweet spot for the O2. As has been mentioned by those who have tried it...it drives the 02 very well and I must admit much better that the srm1, in all aspects of its sound. It even made the 303 sound fuller and smoothed out midrange tizz of the lambda pro. I have no doubt that the 02 will scale up with the custom amps...I do have my thoughts on the KGST...like among the dynamic headphones, you have to make a personal decision...is a Gilmore lite enough vs. getting the ECZD.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well unfortunately this is the going rate for Sigma pros.....but the one on agon looks like SR-Sigma, not pro. I think it has gray body, pro has all black body._

 

It is in fact a normal bias Sigma. I could just make out the middle pin on the plug.


----------



## Asr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I might be persuaded to part with at the CO regional meet this weekend. Bring cash. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hrmm...interested....how much cash are we talking?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just sold a SRX-001 Mk3 normal bias and before I put into the box to ship I listened to it again. After listening I wondered if I had done the right thing it sounded so magical to me out of my T1S but it still would have been one to many headphones for me. Enjoy the SRX-001 Mk3 normal bias coming your way._

 

This will be the third such phone I have owned at various times. The first was sold more than 20 years ago to a friend who still has it. I got another one about a 1 1/2 years ago but which had a channel imbalance which I just made worse when I tried to fix it. I have high hopes for yours, especially with a new cable.

 This is a classic "collectors" phone in that it is not that great for overall listening due to the lack of deep bass. As such it often sounds somewhat thin. However it has a remarkable ability to pull out detail, even better than any pro model I have heard, and I guess that's why these were used as monitor phones. Now and again I just want to hear what it can do on certain material.

 I wonder if I can turn the old SRXIII into a pro model someday? The preferred mode appears to be to get the drivers from an old gamma pro.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This will be the third such phone I have owned at various times. The first was sold more than 20 years ago to a friend who still has it. I got another one about a 1 1/2 years ago but which had a channel imbalance which I just made worse when I tried to fix it. I have high hopes for yours, *especially with a new cable*.

 This is a classic "collectors" phone in that it is not that great for overall listening due to the lack of deep bass. As such it often sounds somewhat thin. However it has a remarkable ability to pull out detail, even better than any pro model I have heard, and I guess that's why these were used as monitor phones. Now and again I just want to hear what it can do on certain material.

 I wonder if I can turn the old SRXIII into a pro model someday? The preferred mode appears to be to get the drivers from an old gamma pro._

 

Note the highlighted portion of your post. It is not clear to me whether you will be re-cabling this one or not but the one I sold you was already re-cabled by Fitz if you did not already know this. Enjoy.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if I can turn the old SRXIII into a pro model someday? The preferred mode appears to be to get the drivers from an old gamma pro._

 

The only way realistic way to do it is via a driver transplant from a Gamma Pro. It is possible to modify the original drivers with some specially made spacers but then the diaphragm is still 2um and modifying the drivers is a pain of epic proportions.


----------



## GuyMe

One issue has certainly cropped up with my ET1000, fit and comfort. The pads are really thin, probably worn down from decades of use. My ears hurt when I take them off, same experience I have with a grado with fresh (not softened) pads. 

 Fit and seal is an issue too, not sure if that's by design or degradation. The headband is really loose so I end up readjusting it every time I wear them, and the front of the earpads kind of pop up when I wear them. I have to wear them further back on my head to get a decent seal, they fit just fine worn backwards oddly enough.

 Are there any new pads I could replace mine with? If not I guess I could gank the slightly more supple ones off my NAD RP 18.

 The sound is still lovely, though running test tones there's a weird sort of "mechanical" sound that crops up under 50hz. Pushing that up with eq creates some pretty weird artifacts.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if I can turn the old SRXIII into a pro model someday? The preferred mode appears to be to get the drivers from an old gamma pro._

 

I did exactly that. I also used the 5 pin Gamma pro cord and plug. I now have bass and great dynamics. What a transformation. I drive them with my SRM-007t with great results. I still have a SR-XmkIII normal bias. There is quite a difference between the Gamma Pro and the SR-XmkIII Pro considering they used the same driver.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did exactly that. I also used the 5 pin Gamma pro cord and plug. I now have bass and great dynamics. What a transformation. I drive them with my SRM-007t with great results. I still have a SR-XmkIII normal bias. There is quite a difference between the Gamma Pro and the SR-XmkIII Pro considering they used the same driver._

 

Do you feel that these drivers work better in the SRXIII than the Gamma pro?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hi,

 I want to be able to plug both an SRD-7 Pro and an SRD-7 SB, both with banana plugs on the imput cable, into a speaker switch box. I then want to connect my speaker amp (which also has banana plugs as part of the speaker cable) to the box and switch between the two.

 Can anyone link me to one that is both affordable and doesn't affect the sonic purity, or make me remove all the banana plugs from the cables?

 Thanks!


----------



## educator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a subtle degradation of the bass when using the transformers. Changing the mains input on the SR 717 was a piece of cake. Luckily it is just moving some jumpers practically next door to each other. Used a mosquito clamp from an old suture set...it was a snap. The jumpers are metal tubes shaped about the size of a fuse. Soldering would have been a chore as it it pretty tight back there._

 

I have a 717 with a transformer and have been thinking about trying to change the setting inside. How do you open the case? It doesn't have regular screws..


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you feel that these drivers work better in the SRXIII than the Gamma pro?_

 

If you are a fan of the SR-XmkIII you will love the sound of the Pro. The Gamma Pro sounds a little like a beefed up SR-5. The Gamma has a much larger headstage and different tonal balance than the SR-X. There are times that I like the direct monitor sound of the SR-X, but I wanted more bass. The Pro update gives me more bass and great dynamics. Do I like the SR-XmkIII Pro better than the Gamma Pro… Yes. I have too many other headphones that I would listen over the Gamma Pro. The SR-XmkIII is unique, in the Stax line, in it’s presentation of sound and can be a lot of fun. The Pro update just makes them even better.


----------



## Percival

I just want to say that I have just received my first pair of Stax - SR-XmkIIIs that I bought for £127 with an SRD-7 - I believe that's fairly expensive but they are in excellent condition. I've had a quick try-out and they sound pretty awesome (my old 'phones were Grado SR-80s). Big thanks to Spritzer for his advice and expertise. Thanks also to all at this forum - I've spent many hours reading it over the last few weeks.


----------



## ludoo

Some of you might be interested in a search app I'm developing to index the Ortho thread. Since we ortho fellows are of a kind disposition, and we pity the state of your wallets (but not the sound getting into your ears), we have added the Stax thread to the index. It's just a proof of concept with limited features, and the plan is to ask the forum owner if it has any interest for the general user base, but it's already pretty usable.

Home / Head-Fi Megathreads


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 I have a 717 with a transformer and have been thinking about trying to change the setting inside. How do you open the case? It doesn't have regular screws.. 
 

I believe they're called hex screws. It shouldn't be too difficult to find those.


----------



## GuyMe

The ET-1000 pads snap on and off very easily, quite convenient. I trade taping on some AT-705 pads, and they were more comfortable, but treble increased and bass fell off. The more padding in the earpads, the more supple it is, will generally have this effect ya? Further from the ear I guess, makes sense. I guess one option would be to cut open the stock pads and stuff some soft foam in them, hopefully increase comfort without greatly altering the response.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ET-1000 pads snap on and off very easily, quite convenient. I trade taping on some AT-705 pads, and they were more comfortable, but treble increased and bass fell off. The more padding in the earpads, the more supple it is, will generally have this effect ya? Further from the ear I guess, makes sense. I guess one option would be to cut open the stock pads and stuff some soft foam in them, hopefully increase comfort without greatly altering the response._

 

Since the set you have once belonged to me I know the problem and I did have one plausible solution which I never put into practice, Stax SR-X pads. Cut away the old pads and glue the new Stax units to the bottom plate. You could also buy one of the older electrets (such as the Phillips unit) and use them as pad donors.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 717 with a transformer and have been thinking about trying to change the setting inside. How do you open the case? It doesn't have regular screws..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Mine has simple allen wrench heads/fittings, 3 mm is what I used. A few pages back has a description of the jumper changes. Once the case is off, there is a big square green plastic piece covering the area. It is stuck on round hard rubber with double stick tape...so gently lift off. At the corner is a fuse lieing horizontally, remove this to get access to the metal jumpers. The jumpers are in spaces 1, 3 , 6...the spaces are numbered. Just remove the jumpers and place in the slots corresponding to your voltage...What is it in Israel? Then reverse the steps. 220v will be the most difficult as access to slots 5/6 is VERY tight. Luckily for 120v, you just leave the jumper in 6 alone.

 as always...do at your *own* risk
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but well worth the effort.


----------



## GuyMe

@Spritzer

 I was thinking along those lines actually. I think I'll put up a WTB thread for those later. Thanks.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Spritzer

 I was thinking along those lines actually. I think I'll put up a WTB thread for those later. Thanks._

 

I have a pair SR-X pads you can have.


----------



## GuyMe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a pair SR-X pads you can have._

 






. You're a doll 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I vill make with the PM.


----------



## GuyMe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sound is still lovely, though running test tones there's a weird sort of "mechanical" sound that crops up under 50hz. Pushing that up with eq creates some pretty weird artifacts._

 

This sound familiar spritzer? I'm using an SRD-6, is this what people mean when they mean the transformers degrade bass? It's only really an issue in electronic music where there's inevitably a lot of low bass.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This sound familiar spritzer? I'm using an SRD-6, is this what people mean when they mean the transformers degrade bass? It's only really an issue in electronic music where there's inevitably a lot of low bass._

 

The hardest thing I tried them with is some classic rock but nothing like that rings any bells. I have quite a "few" headphones since these so they all start to blend together... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 You may be overloading the drivers though as the limited D/S spacing will never output bass like a Pro bias phone.


----------



## GuyMe

I see. I suppose my isos will not be replaced anytime soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. How will a normal bias Lambda compare to my Beyer? More bass and treble I take it? This is the only other stat I have designs on...for now.

 I'm not familiar with the concept of D/S spacing, what does that mean? Diaphragm/Strator?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see. I suppose my isos will not be replaced anytime soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. How will a normal bias Lambda compare to my Beyer? More bass and treble I take it? This is the only other stat I have designs on...for now.

 I'm not familiar with the concept of D/S spacing, what does that mean? Diaphragm/Strator?_

 

The ISO's have their place but I would rate the normal bias Lambda above the T-50v1. 

 D/S is diaphragm to stator


----------



## Headdie

Hola amigos !

 Wich one would be a better entry in this new world for me,

 SR-303 & SRM-1/mk2, or
 SR-303 & SRM-313

 What could go wrong with a +20 years old Stax amplifier? Easy maintenance or a nightmare if things go wrong?

 Muchas gracias,


----------



## bralk

Last month I bought an SRM-323 ( from Spritzer - thanks!) and an SR-303 from Japan.

 My SR-007 funktions OK with the RM-323, but the SR-303 has a significant amount of noise (hum ?) when used with the SRM-323 as well as with my SRM-717.

 When I ground the amps the noise from the SR-303 disappears and they play perfectly.

 I then bought an SR-404 ( which has the same cable as the SR-007 ) and it functions flawlessly on both amps and* without *grounding. This is important to me, as the SRM-323/SR-404 is going to be used at changing locations.

 I am now left with a new SR-303 and wondering what to do with it. 

 Any suggestions ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## John Buchanan

Buy a Stax Sigma and get Yamasinc to change drivers so you are left with a Sigma/303 hybrid and a Lambda headphone as well.
 Regarding hum - the Stax headphone amps appear to be supplied an unearthed mains lead. For safety reasons, I changed these to an earthed lead and have never heard hum even at full volume with any of my Stax headphones and either an SRM 717 or an SRM 1 Mk 2 Pro.


----------



## brat

A quick question:
 Is there any problem if my SRM-727II is on for long periods (12-16 hours per day)?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Buy a Stax Sigma and get Yamasinc to change drivers so you are left with a Sigma/303 hybrid and a Lambda headphone as well.
 Regarding hum - the Stax headphone amps appear to be supplied an unearthed mains lead. For safety reasons, I changed these to an earthed lead and have never heard hum even at full volume with any of my Stax headphones and either an SRM 717 or an SRM 1 Mk 2 Pro._

 

Thanks for the suggestion John.

 We don´t have earthed mains in Denmark
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So I have to run a wire into the garden and plant a copper rod. 

 We have 25% VAT. And coupled with shipping costs this rules out any major ping-pong shipping between EU and US. 

 I could always offer up the 303 as spare-parts
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A quick question:
 Is there any problem if my SRM-727II is on for long periods (12-16 hours per day)?_

 

Should not be any problem.
 I run my SRM-007t for up to 16 hours a day and not experienced any problems. Just make sure not to block ventilation.


----------



## spritzer

I think it's time to dig a hole in the garden.


----------



## slwiser




----------



## 2deadeyes

Beautiful! 

 Question for the mob: Which is better suited for classical? Lambdas or Sigmas?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Beautiful! 

 Question for the mob: Which is better suited for classical? Lambdas or Sigmas?_

 

I find the Sigmas best for vocal/opera, the Lambdas best for orchestral.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Note the highlighted portion of your post. It is not clear to me whether you will be re-cabling this one or not but the one I sold you was already re-cabled by Fitz if you did not already know this. Enjoy._

 


 Yes, I had noted the recablng before I bought it. This seems to give them an added openess and sweetness compared to my old model. The phones you sold me are well-nigh in perfect condition and as type this I am listening to Die Valkure with them using my old Stax SRA 12S preamp/amp. I originally bought the amp to run low bias Sigma's but the SRXIII's are much more efficient and with the 350 Volt output from the amp, they show great dynamics. The missing bottom bass is not as bad as I feared and the phones can get the toes tapping with rock music. I am now contemplating fixing my spare SRA 12S which I had been cannibalizing for parts


----------



## Goosepond

Hi,

 I'm proud to be a new member of the Stax OMII Mk1 club, courtesy of ShaolinRasta. I also picked up a nice SRM-T1S from spritzer. I was looking for something to connect the balanced outputs from my Cary CDP. I already had a SRM-T1 and a pair of 404's that I had picked up on Audiogon about a year ago.

 Needless to say, these untrained ears are experiencing some very nice sounds. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, ultimately I'll be looking for something to better drive the OM's.

 Like maybe the newest Stax tube amp designed for the OM's.

 Life is good if a bit expensive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gene


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj243/slwiser/StaxEasyChairsetup04lowlevel.jpg?t=1217090098
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...g?t=1217090092_

 

Looking good for sure! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Your HPS-2's look lighter in color than mine. But guess they may be using different wood, or that its just that mine have been exposed to light for a couple of years.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Goosepond* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,
 I'm proud to be a new member of the Stax OMII Mk1 club, courtesy of ShaolinRasta._

 

Welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-007 is really nice...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_







_

 

Is that a big capacitor hiding behind your earspeakers Steve?


----------



## slwiser

Yes those are the Black Gate WKZ caps, four of them.


----------



## antonyfirst

Steve, wonderful stands you have over there!


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking good for sure! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Your HPS-2's look lighter in color than mine. But guess they may be using different wood, or that its just that mine have been exposed to light for a couple of years.

 Welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SR-007 is really nice..._

 

You can also see that one base is definitely darker than most of the wood on those stands.

 Tony thanks; they are very nice looking in person.


----------



## GuyMe

Just got my Signet TK33 and I'm about ready to hook it up, but there's one thing. On the transformer box there's a "high/low" switch, what does that do?

 What other AT 'trets is the box good for?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my Signet TK33 and I'm about ready to hook it up, but there's one thing. On the transformer box there's a "high/low" switch, what does that do?

 What other AT 'trets is the box good for?_

 

Is there a headphone input by any chance on the box? Some of these had the ability to accept input from a headphone output with different taps on the transformers to match.


----------



## GuyMe

Hmm I guess you mean it's to select between the two headphone ports? I thought you were right but in practice it just seems to make them a bit louder when set to high. The seller had mentioned that they don't go loud, and that's the truth. Distorts at moderate volumes, too bad as they seem a nice sounding pair. Oh well, I'm sure they'll make a nice YH-1 housing.


----------



## Faust2D

Got any nice pics of Signet TK33?


----------



## GuyMe

Just for you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Flash washes it out but the box has neat volume lights. At the end it goes red and distorts. It does this a lot.





 The pads are cloth and the most comfortable supra aurals I've worn, probably does no favors to the bass though. The diaphragm can be seen through the grill, barely covered at all.





 Open backed _and_ vented.


----------



## Faust2D

Cool, looks like pads were vinyl one time but it peeled off now. SR-X I heard was the same way.


----------



## tako_tsubo

The Drawer...






 The desktop...for now. A little crowded, waiting for some av123 x electronics


----------



## Faust2D

Very nice. Reminds me that I still need to try O2


----------



## tako_tsubo

slwiser....Nice set up! What equipment stand are you using? I need to set up a nice seating/reading area and that dark colored wood meets WAF


----------



## ueyteuor

guys, cant seem to find any info on making a srm252/srm212 portable.. can anyone direct me to the right place?? thanks


----------



## dvse

slwiser, tako_tsubo - I see you are using Lavry DA10 with O2 - I used to have it as well and thought it sounded very good, but compared to better DACs it really masks a lot of midrange texture - the difference was nowhere near as obvious with Lambda family phones or dynamics. So try a better digital source if you have a chance!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Drawer...
http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/IMG_0088.jpg

 The desktop...for now. A little crowded, waiting for some av123 x electronics 
http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/IMG_0123.jpg_

 

Nice collection you got there! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 With three different amplification choices as well.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_slwiser....Nice set up! What equipment stand are you using? I need to set up a nice seating/reading area and that dark colored wood meets WAF
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That stand is hard to find since it is no longer made. It is an Atlantis Reference 3. They made a 5 with five shelves.

 Here is one place that has a few 4s. Atlantis Reference Rack 4 at Audio Concepts Inc. for a very good price.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, cant seem to find any info on making a srm252/srm212 portable.. can anyone direct me to the right place?? thanks_

 

Quick answer: you can run the SRM-212/252 in a car using a standard cigarette-lighter to DC plug adaptor (check polarity first!), or use a re-chargeable, sealed lead-acid 12V battery, bought specially for the purpose, or even, as I've tried successfully, buy a 10 AA cell/battery holder and fill it with 10 NiMH AAs (where 10 x 1.2V = 12V). (Again, ensure polarity of the DC plug is correct: there are a couple of us on this thread, me included, who've discovered what a pain it is if the internal fuse is blown by trying to run the SRM-212/252 with incorrect polarity!)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyMe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm I guess you mean it's to select between the two headphone ports? I thought you were right but in practice it just seems to make them a bit louder when set to high. The seller had mentioned that they don't go loud, and that's the truth. Distorts at moderate volumes, too bad as they seem a nice sounding pair. Oh well, I'm sure they'll make a nice YH-1 housing._

 

I meant on the input side of things, speaker input and then headphone input. Since it just goes a bit louder when flipping the switch then it should be switching between different output taps on the transformers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, looks like pads were vinyl one time but it peeled off now. SR-X I heard was the same way._

 

Wait... what??? Have you never heard a SR-X with new earpads? No wonder you think they suck...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ueyteuor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, cant seem to find any info on making a srm252/srm212 portable.. can anyone direct me to the right place?? thanks_

 

The amplifiers need 12 volt voltage. So it can be made portable using a suitable battery.
 Just like Kevin Gilmore did in his portable Omega 2 rig some years back. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 * Sony D-777
 * Stax SRM-212
 * Stax SR-007
 * 12 volt 7 amp-hour battery


----------



## Anders

I have a 007t and have used it with HE60 and SR-404 with different tubes. Results are very mixed, sometimes it sounds very, very good and sometimes it is disappointing. Tubes have different signatures, the GE tubes that it was equipped with when I bought it are smooth but lack dynamics and boring for me. Raytheon (Japan) were much better, very nice tubes except that they are coloured in the midrange with some orange glow. I now test Elektro-Harmonix gold pins and these are more neutral, with more intense tonality in midrange and treble and maybe also have a little more bass. Still a little too bright and I don't know if that will go down enough (they were very thrill and unpleasant during one phase of burn-in).

 Common for all tubes are problems with the bass response of 007t. It is usually adequate for classical music and other acoustic music. The more punch and deep bass, the worse it gets. Some music suffer less from the reduced bass content while some music is based on a bass bottom where the lack of bass just get it sound anemic and sometimes ridiculously distorted, the meaning or message of music is misrepresented. Bass problems vary, sometimes it is only a reduction of volume but there are also problems with instability and lack of control and the lack of control also seem to spread up in higher registers and affect midrange negatively. Complex music with much low bass is most problematic. The tiny little Earmax has better bass.

 That means that it is difficult to characterise the 007t in a single dimension. With some music and tubes I would not believe that I listen to the same amplifier as when I use other music and tubes, without knowing that it is the same. However, bass response is a common feature. 

 The obvious answer is to change amplifier. I am grateful if you can help me answer some questions. The possible alternatives are few. I don't regard Headamp as an alternative currently, Justin didn't answer my question about availability and availability is known too be low or close to non-existent. The possible current production alternatives seem to boil down to Stax 727 and Woo Audio GES, although Stax 717 should be quite possible to find used.

*Questions*:


 How do these amplifiers compare to 007t? Would there be a satisfactory bass response on complex music with strong and deep bass content, some level of good or at least decent control, punch and impact?

 HE60 is bass shy compared to Stax 404. I suspect that this is dependant on design but how much can it improve with better amplification?





 I always feel enthusiastic after I have connected my electrostatic system because of its obvious strengths but I also soon become disappointed and get mixed feelings. Maybe a Blue Hawaii SE is necessary to be satisfied? It is not enough with bass punch and I also want to retain midrange richness etc. So it may be better to lay down the electrostatic project, at least for some time, and go another way?


----------



## krmathis

Anders. First I would like to say that I have no experience with the 727 or GES, so don't know how they compare to the 007t. But I am in a somewhat similar situation like you.
 The 007t usually satisfy my needs. But it sometimes feels like it lack a bit power, which is backed up by numerous posts here on Head-Fi.

 I have been looking for the "perfect" amplifier for a couple of year now, without finding one. Aristaeus being the closest I have found so far, but sold out before I could get my hands on one. The KGBH SE seems really interesting as well, but also sold out (not even out yet)...

 So I have started my way into the speaker amplifier/energizer route, in hope that it can fulfill my needs. The RWA Signature 30.2 matched up with the SRD-7 Pro are really nice. Barely auditioned it so far. But it certainly sounds like it had my SR-007BL under stricter control than the 007t. Without sacrificing much (if any) of the magic midrange, warmth and sound stage of the 007t.
 No conclusion so far, but certainly sounds like I am on to something.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Perhaps worth looking into for you as well?


----------



## dvse

I think the lack of bass is at least in part the characteristic of the HE60... They certainly did not approach SR-007 in terms of depth and control either out of SRM-717 or KGSS back when I had them.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That means that it is difficult to characterise the 007t in a single dimension. With some music and tubes I would not believe that I listen to the same amplifier as when I use other music and tubes, without knowing that it is the same. However, bass response is a common feature. 

 The obvious answer is to change amplifier. I am grateful if you can help me answer some questions. The possible alternatives are few. I don't regard Headamp as an alternative currently, Justin didn't answer my question about availability and availability is known too be low or close to non-existent. The possible current production alternatives seem to boil down to Stax 727 and Woo Audio GES, although Stax 717 should be quite possible to find used.

*Questions*:


 How do these amplifiers compare to 007t? Would there be a satisfactory bass response on complex music with strong and deep bass content, some level of good or at least decent control, punch and impact?

 HE60 is bass shy compared to Stax 404. I suspect that this is dependant on design but how much can it improve with better amplification?

 I always feel enthusiastic after I have connected my electrostatic system because of its obvious strengths but I also soon become disappointed and get mixed feelings. Maybe a Blue Hawaii SE is necessary to be satisfied? It is not enough with bass punch and I also want to retain midrange richness etc. So it may be better to lay down the electrostatic project, at least for some time, and go another way?_

 

I have both a 717 and a 007t. I would not consider the 727, it’s bland and does not have the snap and dynamics of the 717. The 717 is a high bandwidth high output amp (much higher than the 007t). The bass is deeper and tighter than the 007t. IMO it is Stax’s best amp for the O2. In other areas it sounds similar to the 007t. If you like deep punchy bass and great dynamics you should have a O2. Another phone that plays loud and has punchy deep bass is the Koss ESP-950. They also don’t have the irritating upper midrange brightness of the 404. The Koss also works well with the 007t.


----------



## spritzer

The HE60 will always be bass light with a "strange" tonal balance. They do open up on a Blue Hawaii but don't expect any miracles. I do prefer the ESP950 for a lot less cash.


----------



## Anders

Thanks for the fast replies! I made a salad for lunch and then many replies had already appeared. The Stax community is great!

 Happily, I got my HE60 for very decent money before the hype took over. The replays seem to confirm my suspicion that bass is inherently limited, and then I can't really regard it as a top-tier headphone for all-round use but is excellent for string quartets etc. ESP-950 seems interesting but I have no reluctance to go to O2 when I have something to drive it properly. I listen much to acoustic music but also to much heavier things and then need good bass.

 How is the output power of a GES compared to 007t and 717 from a technical point of view?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How is the output power of a GES compared to 007t and 717 from a technical point of view?_

 

About the same as the 007t and less than the 717. It probably would drive the HE60 wonderfully ,but the short time I spent with the GES prototype showed it simply could not drive the O2s.


----------



## tako_tsubo

According to the stax wiki, the 007t outputs 340v while the 717 outputs 450v. The srm1/mk2 outputs 370v, while the srmT1 does only 300v. The ultimate and rare SRM T2 a whooping 630v....those were the days, if we only knew back in 1994.


----------



## mopps

Hi, Anders,

 Just how you have described it, I also feel to the 007t: it works unambiguously too feebly with modern music; not only the bass looks uncontrolled and sloppy, under heavy attack it also loses the complete overview and everything seems to collapse to a pulp. As a countermove the magic voices and acoustic instruments and the great space illumination compensate - with the next disc.

 I've helped myself from the dilemma with a smaller transistor amplifier in parallel. Now SRM-323 does its service with pop, rock, electronica and movies. It perceptibly has more pressure and keeps always "a stiff upper lip", however, sounds also harder and rougher, and plays less "coherently", almost quite "arbitrarily" and takes from the omega, unfortunately, a lot from its fascination and musicality.

 A better alternative or even a substitute with 007t should be the big transistor amp 727 which was trimmed, however, for some critics probably already too much on "tubey" and has lost towards its predecessor 717 a lot in punch and dynamics how quite several times was mentioned here.

 Whoops, my first post!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And even into perfect English!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 007t and have used it with HE60 and SR-404 with different tubes. Results are very mixed, sometimes it sounds very, very good and sometimes it is disappointing. Tubes have different signatures, the GE tubes that it was equipped with when I bought it are smooth but lack dynamics and boring for me. Raytheon (Japan) were much better, very nice tubes except that they are coloured in the midrange with some orange glow. I now test Elektro-Harmonix gold pins and these are more neutral, with more intense tonality in midrange and treble and maybe also have a little more bass. Still a little too bright and I don't know if that will go down enough (they were very thrill and unpleasant during one phase of burn-in).

 Common for all tubes are problems with the bass response of 007t. It is usually adequate for classical music and other acoustic music. The more punch and deep bass, the worse it gets. Some music suffer less from the reduced bass content while some music is based on a bass bottom where the lack of bass just get it sound anemic and sometimes ridiculously distorted, the meaning or message of music is misrepresented. Bass problems vary, sometimes it is only a reduction of volume but there are also problems with instability and lack of control and the lack of control also seem to spread up in higher registers and affect midrange negatively. Complex music with much low bass is most problematic. The tiny little Earmax has better bass.

 That means that it is difficult to characterise the 007t in a single dimension. With some music and tubes I would not believe that I listen to the same amplifier as when I use other music and tubes, without knowing that it is the same. However, bass response is a common feature. 

 The obvious answer is to change amplifier. I am grateful if you can help me answer some questions. The possible alternatives are few. I don't regard Headamp as an alternative currently, Justin didn't answer my question about availability and availability is known too be low or close to non-existent. The possible current production alternatives seem to boil down to Stax 727 and Woo Audio GES, although Stax 717 should be quite possible to find used.

*Questions*:


 How do these amplifiers compare to 007t? Would there be a satisfactory bass response on complex music with strong and deep bass content, some level of good or at least decent control, punch and impact?

 HE60 is bass shy compared to Stax 404. I suspect that this is dependant on design but how much can it improve with better amplification?





 I always feel enthusiastic after I have connected my electrostatic system because of its obvious strengths but I also soon become disappointed and get mixed feelings. Maybe a Blue Hawaii SE is necessary to be satisfied? It is not enough with bass punch and I also want to retain midrange richness etc. So it may be better to lay down the electrostatic project, at least for some time, and go another way?_

 

I can also report on certain aspects of your question - the bass on a HE60 with GES vs SRM-1 Mk2 Pro vs SRD-7 Pro driven by Nuforce Icon vs HEV70 vs Single Power ES-1.

 With my 3 yr old prototype GES and stock tubes (EH 12ZX7/Sylvania 6S4) the HE60 have more bass than they do with the HEV70, which has more bass than them on the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro (none of my other stats are bass-lite on the SRM-1). The HE60 bass with the GES is only slightly less than listening with the SRD-7 fed by Nuforce Icon 12wpc integrated amp. But the micro-detail ambience and depth of space on the GES make up for the 1-2db less bass, especially since it seems to be about 3db stronger than with the SRM-1 already. I have ordered NOS 12BZ7 tubes that I should have Monday to try, and maybe the bass will get even better. To my ears, the HE60 with Elephas' SP ES-1 were bass light compared to the GES yesterday at the CO meet, and the ES-1 sounded kinda like SS, which was a surprise to me. Mikhail blamed it on the Bendix tubes he was testing with it at that moment in time.

 I am upgrading the GES to current production with a normal bias jack added, so I'll be able to report on the improvements vs my prototype GES in a couple of months. But for now, the HE60 are married to the Woo GES.


----------



## johnmatrix

Hey guys,

 I was thinking of selling my ESP950 and going for a pair of omega IImkI. I was wondering what the going rate on a used pair of those would be? I think it would mate well with my KGSS and denon.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About the same as the 007t and less than the 717. It probably would drive the HE60 wonderfully ,but the short time I spent with the GES prototype showed it simply could not drive the O2s._

 


 Jack Wu says the GES current production is clearly better than the prototype, and I am ordering a new model with normal bias jack added too, so I'll report back when I get it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_








_

 

How does the sound of the 404 compare to the Omega2 in your opinion? Is it really worth making the jump?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the sound of the 404 compare to the Omega2 in your opinion? Is it really worth making the jump?_

 





 It´s not a question of good and better as they are quite different in character.

 The 404 is a "livelier" headphone. The 007 is the "serious" headphone.

 The 404 is more "in your face" with a very broad soundstage and a forward rendition af the lower treble/higher midband.

 The 007 has a very balanced frequency rendition with very deep and detailed bass. The soundstage is not that broad but very 3 dimensional.
 Also fantastic on micro details.

 Yes - it´s worth the jump!

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## ktm

I seem to have won a Stax SRM-1/MK-2 on Ebay. I went to bed thinking
 someone would outbid me. I guess I'll know in a week how it compares to
 the SRM-313


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the sound of the 404 compare to the Omega2 in your opinion? Is it really worth making the jump?_

 

Both are very enjoyable and of different character as noted above. If left to one it would be the 007 for me. 

 I could have lived with only the SRM-1 Pro and SRX-001 normal if I wanted too this sounded so good to me. But I did not want too so I went for those two instead.


----------



## smeggy

Sony ECR question... I forgot what pins on the plug are what. I think top and bottom are signal and L/R are ground but want to be sure before blowing anything up.

 Spritzer, you there?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sony ECR question... I forgot what pins on the plug are what. I think top and bottom are signal and L/R are ground but want to be sure before blowing anything up.

 Spritzer, you there?_

 

I'll PM you


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll PM you_

 

Ah, not to worry, I found the manual. It's not the transfo box that's for sure, there's something else going on inside the phones. I just tried them with my 500 box and it's still quiet and distorting. Will investigate more....


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, not to worry, I found the manual. It's not the transfo box that's for sure, there's something else going on inside the phones. I just tried them with my 500 box and it's still quiet and distorting. Will investigate more...._

 

You got the PM anyways... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The drivers are easy to open up so replacing the diaphragm with another model should work. Very stupid of me not to send you my spare ECR400 drivers...


----------



## smeggy

I'll have a lookie see later and find out if there's anything that looks suspicious inside. I can't imagine both elements failing equally so there's something odd going on in there.


----------



## Anders

Thanks for your advice! I bought a SRM-717 today for a good price and that concluded the decision process for the moment. I don't know if it was the best choice out of 717, 727 and GES but it was available and cheap. This may not be the last step but I will try to listen to and evaluate the 717 before proceeding further on the amplifier side.


----------



## tako_tsubo

you will really like the 717, congrats Anders.

 And ktm...good one scoring the B series srm1pro!


----------



## ktm

I'm sure the wife will be less thrilled than I am!
 I think that if the srm-1 works out, the srm-313 and sr-202's
 are going out the door. I may have to stop there a while
 and see what to do next. I am swimming in gear and need to clear 
 out a bunch of stuff. The ol' closet is full of audio goodies.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you will really like the 717, congrats Anders._

 

I second that motion! Don't forget to let it fully warm-up.


----------



## Anders

Yes, warm up. But first I have to rewire it from 100V to 220/240V. Otherwise it will become much too hot!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll have a lookie see later and find out if there's anything that looks suspicious inside. I can't imagine both elements failing equally so there's something odd going on in there._

 

Both elements shouldn't fail at the same time but if worst comes to worst it is easy enough to swap in new film from an ECR500 or just turn them into full blown electrostatics. They do look good enough to eat though...


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do look good enough to eat though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Any pics?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any pics?_

 

I'll take some tonight when I get home. In the flesh they are truly delicious, and they feel even better than they look. Mmmmmmmm, black anodized alloy. Yummy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They're also heavy little suckers, all that metal makes them much more hefty than your average phones


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're also heavy little suckers, all that metal makes them much more hefty than your average phones_

 

You mean heavy like this?


----------



## SACD-Man

I like the girl...LOL


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean heavy like this?
_

 

Yes, just like that in fact 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oddly I've seen those turn up on ebay a few times, including now, and I seem strangely drawn to them....


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, just like that in fact 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oddly I've seen those turn up on ebay a few times, including now, and I seem strangely drawn to them...._

 

Heh, I was debating whether to put a low bid on them... Great minds, etc.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any pics?_

 

















 Now I just need to find a ECR-800...


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I just need to find a ECR-800..._

 

Beautiful. Weird looking headband, the bottom part seems almost suspended in the air.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I just need to find a ECR-800..._

 

Are there two pairs? Or is this one the same that smeggy has now?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there two pairs? Or is this one the same that smeggy has now?_

 

The same, I sent it to smeggy with a LNC for some woody action...


----------



## smeggy

I just took the 600s apart and can't see anything obviously wrong. I bypassed the wiring, tried 3 transformers, 3 amps, they just don't want to work properly. I have no idea what's wrong with them unless the diaphragms are shot. Maybe someone got carried away with the volume one time and popped them both.

 The drive units are a lot different than the 500 in every except general size.

 It might be worthwhile to transplant 500 units in there if any become available at a good price but from what I can hear of the drivers, they sound quite a bit sharper than the 500. It'd be a shame to dump these drivers but I don't know what the problem is. Maybe the film de-coated itself. The capsules are bolted together, though I'm reluctant to dismantle them as I don't know enough about these things not to screw them up even more.

 One point of interest, they have 2 spacers in the capsules, maybe one too many? That would certainly account for the lack of efficiency and distortion if someone modified them at some time in the distant past. Of course, with no service manual it's not easy to tell if this is the way it's supposed to be. Taking a peek under the pads (Stax?) it appears something was done to them at some time.

 Bleh, I just looked at the cutaway drawing of the ECR-800 and it's almost the same with the two spacers, they're just sandwiching the diaphragm so it looks like it's normal. Back to square one. *sigh*


----------



## bjarnetv

just bumped into some old norwegian stax promo material; figured i should post it here for those interested.














 the text is nothing special, only the usaual "treat your family to a nice pair of stax; the sr-44 is so good it brings a tear to your eye" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 nice knowing the price of stax back in 83 though


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just bumped into some old norwegian stax promo material; figured i should post it here for those interested._

 

The SRD-X used to cost double the SRD-6???


----------



## Tachikoma

That isn't really surprising.. the SRD-X costs at least 5 times as much as the SRD-6 nowadays =P


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just took the 600s apart and can't see anything obviously wrong. I bypassed the wiring, tried 3 transformers, 3 amps, they just don't want to work properly. I have no idea what's wrong with them unless the diaphragms are shot. Maybe someone got carried away with the volume one time and popped them both.

 The drive units are a lot different than the 500 in every except general size.

 It might be worthwhile to transplant 500 units in there if any become available at a good price but from what I can hear of the drivers, they sound quite a bit sharper than the 500. It'd be a shame to dump these drivers but I don't know what the problem is. Maybe the film de-coated itself. The capsules are bolted together, though I'm reluctant to dismantle them as I don't know enough about these things not to screw them up even more.

 One point of interest, they have 2 spacers in the capsules, maybe one too many? That would certainly account for the lack of efficiency and distortion if someone modified them at some time in the distant past. Of course, with no service manual it's not easy to tell if this is the way it's supposed to be. Taking a peek under the pads (Stax?) it appears something was done to them at some time.

 Bleh, I just looked at the cutaway drawing of the ECR-800 and it's almost the same with the two spacers, they're just sandwiching the diaphragm so it looks like it's normal. Back to square one. *sigh*_

 

The driver frame is indeed different but the diaphragms appear to be the same size and shape. I have a set of ECR400 drivers here that suffered from some channel imbalance but the diaphragms should work. I don't recommend opening up the drivers unless you know what you are doing as the odds are stacked against you and they can be a pain to assemble. 

 The spacers are huge but the diaphragm is stuck to them and they are stock. The ECR4/500 drivers should have a rubber ring around the driver which hides the spacers but they are there. 

 The pads are Stax (SR-X saves the day once again) and the underside looks so rough as Sony just glued the whole assembly together and then stuck the pads on top of that. 

 Now that we've confirmed that there is indeed something wrong it might be best to just ship them back to me with the finished Stax woody and I'll turn them into a full blown ESP. They will need a much higher bias voltage though to compensate for that very large D/S gap but that's not a problem really. 800v+ anybody...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now I just need to find a ECR-800..._

 

Another rare pair of headphones. Oh my!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I am gonna post my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro B Series for sale soon, to help fund a new model Woo GES with pro and normal bias jacks and an RCA loop out. I just thought I'd let you Stax peeps (since there is no Stax Mafia) know about it first.

 I don't think I have any Stax to sell with it, since I was planning to get my Gamma Pro woodied into a pair of Smegma Pro by Smeggy. I might part with them if the price was right. I suppose I'd rather sell my Audio Technica ATH-D1000 first (optical digital upconverting 24/96 dac/amp built-in).


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 I don't think I have any Stax to sell with it, since I was planning to get my Gamma Pro woodied into a pair of Smegma Pro by Smeggy. I might part with them if the price was right. I suppose I'd rather sell my Audio Technica ATH-D1000 first (optical digital upconverting 24/96 dac/amp built-in). 
 

Smegma it! Those drivers work a fair bit better in different housings than the gamma's.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Smegma it! Those drivers work a fair bit better in different housings than the gamma's._

 

Yeah, I just have to find some SR-007 ear pads at a good price first - that is the only thing keeping me from shipping to these ever since Smeggy agreed to woody them. I was supposed to ship them after the Colorado head-fi meet last weekend. I still owe Jack Wu $840 for the new GES he is building for me, so I am trying to watch my money. But, I likely will keep the Gamma Pro and let them be Smegmafied.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just bumped into some old norwegian stax promo material; figured i should post it here for those interested.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/c...udioscan83.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/c...oscan83022.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/c...oscan83023.jpg

 the text is nothing special, only the usaual "treat your family to a nice pair of stax; the sr-44 is so good it brings a tear to your eye" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 nice knowing the price of stax back in 83 though_

 

Norwegian? Sure looks Danish to me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Great find and reading though. I especially like this statement "Kort sagt - det bedste i hovedtelefoner kommer fra Stax".


----------



## bjarnetv

i meant to say danish promo material found on a norwegian forum, but i was typing so "fast", my brain couldnt keep up


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Norwegian? Sure looks Danish to me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Great find and reading though. I especially like this statement "Kort sagt - det bedste i hovedtelefoner kommer fra Stax"._

 

Looks cool. Can someone translate this?


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks cool. Can someone translate this? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

With my bad Swedish: Shortly put - the best in headphones comes from Stax. Now that's not an accurate translation


----------



## bjarnetv

something like; "to put it simply - the best headphones comes from stax"

 edit-not very accurate i guess; but you get the picture


----------



## Faust2D

Does anyone here have Stax SRA-14S? I am was reading about it and it seems to be a very nice fit for my office system. How rare are they? How much do they cost on the used market?


----------



## edstrelow

I have seen the odd one for sale at $1000.00 and up. It is a preamp as well as a headphone amp with, as I recall, different pre-amp modules eg. for a moving coil cartridge and geting the modules you want can be even more difficult than finding the pre-amp. I would guess that about one or two 14S come up on E-bay each year.

 I have used the SRA 12S, which is the earlier pre-amp/low bias headphone amp, as a pre-amp for many years, and think it is a good item just for that use alone so I would hope the 14S would be as good or better.


----------



## scompton

I just received an AcCutex ST1000 electret. It's a transformerless electret. It sounds OK with what I have to drive it at work. The pads are shot. Half the foam has deteriorated leaving behind lumps of semi good foam. I'll take pics tonight if anyone is interested.


----------



## bjarnetv

i want to see them!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone here have Stax SRA-14S? I am was reading about it and it seems to be a very nice fit for my office system. How rare are they? How much do they cost on the used market?_

 

There was at least one unit here but they are rather rare, partially due to the very high original price of 198,000 Yen (SRM-T1 was 80k Yen). The last piece I remember went for around 100k Yen a few months back so definitely not cheap.


----------



## John Buchanan

I think they had several different types of input modules for the Stax SRA-14s. One of them was a Cond PU (or condenser pickup) module for their own CP-Y cartridge, although I suspect you still needed the ECP-1 power supply/equaliser module in addition. My father still has a CPY/ECP-1 lying around that needs a new battery pack.


----------



## Faust2D

Thanks for the info on SRA-14s. They seem to be rare. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is it true that the amp section is almost the same as SRM-1Mk2?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think they had several different types of input modules for the Stax SRA-14s. One of them was a Cond PU (or condenser pickup) module for their own CP-Y cartridge, although I suspect you still needed the ECP-1 power supply/equaliser module in addition. My father still has a CPY/ECP-1 lying around that needs a new battery pack._

 

There were 4 versions which I know off, MM, MC and condenser were the phono versions. The condenser unit has the PSU and EQ built in as the same boards can be used in the PS3. The last board, JB-1, was a line level input AFAIK. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info on SRA-14s. They seem to be rare. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is it true that the amp section is almost the same as SRM-1Mk2?_

 

AFAIK the amp sections were pretty similar but the PSU was much better on the SRA-14S which would naturally make the amp better.


----------



## Headdie

May I ask you something,

 I'm considering the SRS-2050 to begin with Stax. I notice that the PSU is basic, reading this thread,

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/srm...supply-210476/

 Now I don't know if it matters for this type of amplifier. Would you guys upgrade this PSU? Would it bring a clear audible difference or just placebo effect?

 And would something like that overkill,

KingRex PSU

 Thanks,


----------



## tako_tsubo

There was a separate thread about what kind of amp to use with a srd SB and I would like a conversation going about what kind of amps will work best with the SRD transformers...I have a srd7 pro. 

 The info I have so far is that the minimum "power" of the amp is around 7 watts and the maximum input about 50...although higher output amps can be used ( thus my ol' carver receiver is used but I keep the volume dial at 10 o'clock). The overall sound from the transformer , as compared to the amps such as the srm1mk2, is one of improved dynamics of the mid bass/bass, with a loss of detail/forwardness at the upper end. Now I have read that various amps work good for their owners...nuforce icon, dared vp 20, vintage NAD, speaker outs of a beta 22. 
 But in theory...what would work the best? Would it be Class A or A/B, etc...SS vs. tube...or go class D like the icon?

 I do know that if good-goes-in the Stax earspeakers give you good out...The Source is very important...I have found that the Pico works better with 007...but overall the Lavry DA10's excellent neutral nature works best for the omega2 and the lambda's with the SRD 7 pro...the 007 combo (with Lavry and carver) gives a Bass that is so very close to the impact of my PL2500...the 2500 just has that visceral feel that I guess only a dynamic HP can give. And the Lavry adds to the upper mids and treble that the Pico could not translate... *almost* as good as the SRM 717. The 717 has the beautifully smooth mids and upper end detail that is *unmatched. 
*
 So to improve on the detail and forwardness further I am turning to the amplifier/pre section. I am a big av123 fan and they will be putting out some class D amps /integrated in the coming months so will hold off on trying the Icon...but so many options otherwise...So what does the Stax family have to offer in experiences and opinions.? It would be logical to go SS, but?


----------



## derekbmn

I would keep searching and digging around on this thread and the old STAX thread There is a mountain of info that you may have missed.


----------



## tako_tsubo

thanks derek...went thru Carls's old thread before, and so again, with 11 pages searching "srd" and am a fast reader. Most of the info was back over a year ago...and Carl was to post a big amp comparo but never could find it. The bottom line was still, the better the amp the better the sound although still not as good as the Blue Hawaii...well I do not want to go $$$. spritzer hated a kenwood receiver...but then I would too. You mention a Pass amp...Aleph 3 clone, then someone mentions the T-amp. Seems people use what they have....I am trying to be more selective


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ And the Lavry adds to the upper mids and treble that the Pico could not translate... *almost* as good as the SRM 717. The 717 has the beautifully smooth mids and upper end detail that is *unmatched. 
*_

 

I had the exact same setup myself (DA10 / SRM-717) and I must say that in my opinion the best thing you can do is to upgrade the DAC. It may sound good without another reference, but you are missing out (almost paradoxically) on both detail and smoothness. Dan's own DA924 would not be a bad choice to try


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks derek...went thru Carls's old thread before, and so again, with 11 pages searching "srd" and am a fast reader. Most of the info was back over a year ago...and Carl was to post a big amp comparo but never could find it. The bottom line was still, the better the amp the better the sound although still not as good as the Blue Hawaii...well I do not want to go $$$. spritzer hated a kenwood receiver...but then I would too. You mention a Pass amp...Aleph 3 clone, then someone mentions the T-amp. Seems people use what they have....I am trying to be more selective
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was always going to build a Firstwatt amp to use with transformers but I have a B22 now that has more then enough power and will be used as a platform for transformer testing. My goal is to find a transformer which will drive the SR-007 but it just gets pushed back as I lack the time to do it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was always going to build a Firstwatt amp to use with transformers but I have a B22 now that has more then enough power and will be used as a platform for transformer testing. My goal is to find a transformer which will drive the SR-007 but it just gets pushed back as I lack the time to do it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, I think we would all agree that the best time for that is now.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was always going to build a Firstwatt amp to use with transformers but I have a B22 now that has more then enough power and will be used as a platform for transformer testing. My goal is to find a transformer which will drive the SR-007 but it just gets pushed back as I lack the time to do it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am the same task!
 The Signature 30.2 is plenty powerful, but the SRD-7 Pro is not quite up there. So will look into a DIY transformer box, with battery powered bias supply and quality transformers.

 We will see how it turns out.


----------



## complin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was always going to build a Firstwatt amp to use with transformers but I have a B22 now that has more then enough power and will be used as a platform for transformer testing. My goal is to find a transformer which will drive the SR-007 but it just gets pushed back as I lack the time to do it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Have you thought of contacting Tim de Paravacini at EAR Yoshino. He is known as a wizard with transformers and they are a unique feature of his amplifiers. He designs and builds these unique transformers so might be able to offer some advice, or even have something you could use. He has also built a direct coupled amplifier for the Quad ESL in the past so has experience with electrostatics.
EAR Yoshino, professional audio equipment,Cambridgeshire,UK,
earyoshino@aol.com

 I would certainly be very interested myself as I intend to use one of his valve amplifiers to drive my SRD & Stax phones


----------



## naamanf

Also color me interested. Maybe if a good design is found we can get a group buy on the transformers.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Just to be clear here: are we talking about a transformer to drive Stax earspeakers (certainly pro, but maybe normal bias also?) from a conventional hi-fi amplifier (like my SRD-7 or SRD-6s, but without the garbage)?

 I'm asking because most of you here go on about all these esoteric after-market amps (BH, KGSS, Aureus?, etc.), and I can't be doing with all that tube-rolling and what-not, so I'd be very interested in getting a good trafo, to be driven by a Naim 32.5/140 pre/power combo...


----------



## krmathis

^ Yes, that's what we (or at least I) talk about.
 A transformer unit, to drive electrostatic headphones using a regular speaker amplifier. Similar to the SRD-7 (Pro, MK2), but using higher dimensioned/quality parts.

 Perhaps Lundahl can be a source of transformers?


----------



## tako_tsubo

A DIY transformer has been talked about before...it does seem like the weak link in this type of set up. What ever happened to the "Illusion" transformer out of Japan? A DIY project would be great to see happen!


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## spritzer

No need to bother Tim as there is already a transformer that will do the job but at a price. Sowter is about as good as you can get but I'm looking for something cheaper then the 4342. 

 As for bias supplies then the SRD-7 Mk2 is a solid no frills choice and if somebody steps up and makes a PCB design available then it can be fitted to any of the Stax units as well as new designs. The sky's the limit though with batteries and DC-DC converters if you want to go nuts and write about how burn in has changed the sound of the capacitors in the bias supply...


----------



## tensaichen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A DIY transformer has been talked about before...it does seem like the weak link in this type of set up. What ever happened to the "Illusion" transformer out of Japan? A DIY project would be great to see happen!_

 

When I went to the manufacturer's website, it seems like Illusion ECS-1001 is out of production as of May 25th of this year. According to Carl, it's not worth the upgrade from SRD-7 Pro/Mk2.


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## Anders

My SRM-717 arrived today from Japan, surprisingly fast as I ordered it on Monday and it arrived on Friday. For the moment I am driving it from a step-down converter. It works very well with this converter (300 W and of decent quality I believe). I will try to rewire it later. 

 The improvement is dramatic with HE60 compared to 007t. Bass is much stronger and better controlled and the whole sound signature is transformed for the better. Obviously these headphones need much power. I haven't listened so much to the 404 yet but it also improved, although bass performance was not as lousy with the 007t as for HE60 + 007t. My impression is that SR-717 has a very neutral sound and works very well across genres, with acoustic music and also with bass-heavy music. Thanks for the suggestion that worked out very well to a very decent cost.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-717 arrived today from Japan, surprisingly fast as I ordered it on Monday and it arrived on Friday._

 

Welcome to the 717 club!


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-717 arrived today from Japan, surprisingly fast as I ordered it on Monday and it arrived on Friday. For the moment I am driving it from a step-down converter. It works very well with this converter (300 W and of decent quality I believe). I will try to rewire it later. 

 The improvement is dramatic with HE60 compared to 007t. Bass is much stronger and better controlled and the whole sound signature is transformed for the better. Obviously these headphones need much power. I haven't listened so much to the 404 yet but it also improved, although bass performance was not as lousy with the 007t as for HE60 + 007t. My impression is that SR-717 has a very neutral sound and works very well across genres, with acoustic music and also with bass-heavy music. Thanks for the suggestion that worked out very well to a very decent cost._

 

Congrats with the SRM-717. While I didn't find the change between even a 006t and 717 nearly as dramatic as you did, I agree with your observations. The SR-717 is certainly a great match for the HE60.

 I haven't tried the SR-404 with the SRM-717, but based on the SR-202, SR-Lambda Professional and Signature, the improvements (from 006t & 212) aren't huge either.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried the SR-404 with the SRM-717, but based on the SR-202, SR-Lambda Professional and Signature, the improvements (from 006t & 212) aren't huge either._

 

You really appreciate the 717 with the O2 and Koss ESP-950.


----------



## milkpowder

Oh yeah! The O2mk1 definitely sounds good on the 717. Would like to hear it with other amps though... I haven't heard the Koss but I would love to. From what I've read it's got a sound signature which I like: HE60-esque with more bass.

 EDIT: I realise I kinda missed your point. I've always found the Lambda series easy to drive and of course, the O2 is far more sensitive to amplification. I've heard the O2 from a Rudistor Egmont and it transforms into a totally different animal, albeit not necessarily pleasing to the ear.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried the SR-404 with the SRM-717, but based on the SR-202, SR-Lambda Professional and Signature, the improvements (from 006t & 212) aren't huge either._

 

The 404 also benefits from being driven by the 717. Especially the lower octaves are really in a firm grip. But the difference isn´t that huge when comparing with the 323.

 Comparing the 717 and 323 with the 007 connected is another story.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## tako_tsubo

Anders...glad you like the SRM 717 also...it really does seem to match well with the 007/omega 2 series,its dark nature heard on the srm1 transforms to a very neutral/full sound on the 717...do make the jumper changes!


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh yeah! The O2mk1 definitely sounds good on the 717. Would like to hear it with other amps though... I haven't heard the Koss but I would love to. From what I've read it's got a sound signature which I like: HE60-esque with more bass.

 EDIT: I realise I kinda missed your point. I've always found the Lambda series easy to drive and of course, the O2 is far more sensitive to amplification. I've heard the O2 from a Rudistor Egmont and it transforms into a totally different animal, albeit not necessarily pleasing to the ear._

 

Would you please care to elaborate? For obvious reasons there seems to be not much love or experience with the Rudistor for electrostats among the US headfiers. I wonder if there're also performance or sound signature reasons.
 If I were to try the O2 with other than Stax amps, it'd be a better choice for me a Rudi amp than the KGSS or BH.

 Rgrds


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milkpowder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh yeah! The O2mk1 definitely sounds good on the 717. Would like to hear it with other amps though... I haven't heard the Koss but I would love to. From what I've read it's got a sound signature which I like: HE60-esque with more bass._

 

That is actually a very good analogy. I think at this point I definitely prefer the ESP/950 to the HE60. Both are fantastic headphones.

 Someone grab the set on Ebay


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## milkpowder

I've only heard the Egmont once at a meet, but I reckon I got a decent listen. The Egmont was using some pretty pricey NOS tubes (the names of which I can't recall). Build quality-wise, the Egmont _looks_ solid. However, I was unable to use my HE60 with it. One of the channels would start distorting even when no music was playing. It was not due to tubes as the owner had spares and it still didn't want work. I doubt it was my HE60's problem either because it played fine out of the three Stax amps which were also at the meet. I was disappointed that I couldn't hear my HE60 with the Rudistor. Anyway, on to the O2.

 The first thing that jumped out at me was brightness! I had heard Duggeh's O2/717 three or four times and I don't recall there being so much upper-midrange and treble energy. For those who have heard the O2/717 or lesser amp, I'm sure you would've noticed that it doesn't put detail on a plate and serve it to you eg SR-Lambda Signature, HE60, R10, K1000. Instead, it's swathed in a layer of honey and you really have to listen closely before you realise that the O2 is no less resolving. The Egmont takes a bit of the honey away and the detail is left bare for all to hear. This is especially apparent in the bass. I would say the O2 becomes a much more energetic, not unlike recabling a HD650 with Zu Mobius. I personally didn't really like this effect; the extra energy made the O2 sound a bit shouty and unbalanced. At that point in time, I really preferred the the 717. Even the SR-Lambda Signature or HE60 amped by a 006t sounded better IMO... (O2 + 006t doesn't really work that well: flabby bass, very veiled, recessed highs, lacking in energy, etc. It's still reasonably enjoyable though.)

 Spritzer has said time and time again that the O2 needs power to awaken it. This wasn't how I envisaged it. For reference purposes, the source was a Benchmark DAC1. Maybe it was the tube complement, the cables, or the source?

 Bearing in mind these are only impressions from a mere half an hour to hour-long listen, I'm not at all put off by the Rudistor. The guy clearly knows how to design decent sounding amps, nevermind about whatever build quality, price, etc criticisms it has attracted. While I wouldn't necessarily buy one myself, at least not based on my short audition, I remain optimistic and would like to listen to it again. The fact that it didn't work with my HE60 is somewhat disturbing though...


*Cool_Torpedo*, I hope this was what you were hoping for.
*
 J-Pak*, my bank account is as undernourished as Keira Knightley.


----------



## aaron313

^

 Thanks for those interesting impressions!


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Thanks for your informative and elaborated reply Milkpowder.

 Having a Rudi myself I hadn't expected such sonic signature on the Egmont, specially for making the detail emphasized and disbalancing the sound to become a bit shouty. For your description, given the unit wasn't faulty or had a bad choice of tubes, I think I'd like the O2 better fed by a 717 too.

 Rgrds


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## milkpowder

Don't get me wrong, there's a lot to like. The emphasised detail is actually quite nice addition. The bass becomes tighter, better controlled and more detailed whilst retaining the same depth and weight. All terrific things. I just didn't like (or wasn't used to) the overall character of the sound.

 Methinks the tube complement has a heck of a lot to do with the sound though. The owner uses two totally different sets for his O2 and HE60. He obviously likes the way the O2 is voiced using his particular setup.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

I see... well, there's people who has very "particular" taste choosing their tubes compliment. I suppose that can be fine tuned for own's taste, and that the important thing is the amp having power enough to feed the O2s properly, which is the tough matter.

 Rgrds


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anders...glad you like the SRM 717 also...it really does seem to match well with the 007/omega 2 series,its dark nature heard on the srm1 transforms to a very neutral/full sound on the 717...do make the jumper changes!_

 

Unfortunately, I can't find any jumpers on my amp and it seems hardwired. I haven't found any picture for the 717 wiring and it could be different between models. After a quick inspection, the transformer and boards seem to be the same as on my 007t that is wired for 240V. So I can use that instead of an instruction.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see... well, there's people who has very "particular" taste choosing their tubes compliment. I suppose that can be fine tuned for own's taste, and that the important thing is the amp having power enough to feed the O2s properly, which is the tough matter.

 Rgrds_

 

I would say it has enough power to drive the O2 properly, but then again I haven't heard any of Singlepower or Gilmore-based amplifiers.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need to bother Tim as there is already a transformer that will do the job but at a price. Sowter is about as good as you can get but I'm looking for something cheaper then the 4342._

 

Yeah, the Sowter 4342 seems like a really nice choice.
 The price of £141.59 don't scare me off either, even if I need two of them...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need to bother Tim as there is already a transformer that will do the job but at a price. Sowter is about as good as you can get but I'm looking for something cheaper then the 4342. 

 As for bias supplies then the SRD-7 Mk2 is a solid no frills choice and if somebody steps up and makes a PCB design available then it can be fitted to any of the Stax units as well as new designs. The sky's the limit though with batteries and DC-DC converters if you want to go nuts and write about how burn in has changed the sound of the capacitors in the bias supply... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

What should the specs be? My friend makes custom hand-wound transformers based on old USSR military iron with silver or copper wire. He is actually hand winding choke transformer for my amp right now. I can ask him how much will it cost to make these.....


----------



## Anders

After a closer look I found the wiring slots at the back of the amplifier, inside the case. There are six numbered slots and there were metal cylinders working as jumpers in slots 1, 3 and 6 (100V configuration). My SRM-007t has the same slots and configured for 240V with jumpers in the slots 2 and 5 (one jumper was left-over but can be needed for future reconfiguration). A little tricky to remove and reinstall the metal jumpers in the slots as space is very limited but I fortunately have a pair of angled tweezers to hold the metal cylinder and pushed with a small screwdriver. 

 Sound improved clearly after rewiring. I wouldn't say that sound sucked with the 300 W step-down transformer but there was a loss in sound quality. I was a little surprised that bass quantity didn't increase appreciably with HE60 after rewiring although it became snappier and more punchy. But presentation overall became faster and with more presence. Classical music sound warmer and more natural. With the transformer there was a touch of a distant and slow sound, but now it is livlier, has more impact, sounds more present and the toe-tapping factor has increased considerably. This applies to all types of music. I was surprised that I found the sound character of 717/HE60 to be closer to AKG K701 (Black Dragon) with Earmax Silver amp (with neutral tubes) than it is to 007t/HE60. 

 I think that SRM-717 is an excellent amplifer and I am happy that I got it. Now waiting for the the SR-007 headpones that are on way.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

^ Would it be possible that you posted some pics of the jumpers configuration into the 717 to let everyone know how to do it? It'd be very useful for all interested in Stax amps and cans.

 Rgrds


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What should the specs be? My friend makes custom hand-wound transformers based on old USSR military iron with silver or copper wire. He is actually hand winding choke transformer for my amp right now. I can ask him how much will it cost to make these....._

 

A CT secondary with a 1:25 ratio so if we have an 8ohm input it is stepped up to 5000ohm. It's basically an output transformer wired backwards.


----------



## Anders

The only camera I have is in my cellular phone and it is so bad that I am afraid that the picture will not help much. Could also be difficult to take a picture without disassembling parts. Maybe someone else can help with that. However, I only think there is two problems when you have opened the amp and are there.

 1. Knowing how to configure the jumpers (ex. install in slots 2 and 5 for 240V). I don't know the configuration for 220 and 120V. There are printed number on the slots so the only thing you need to know is the right numbers (the number is not visible when a jumper is installed in the slot but they go from 1 to 6 so it is enough to see some of them).

 2. Moving the jumpers. The slots have two spring holders, it is very similar to the holder for the AC fuse above the board. Here there are two options. One is to use tweezers with a little help of a screwdriver or similar in the other hand. The other options is to dismount the small board. This is fairly easy and you only have to remove the two screws from the back of the case. However, at least one wire that is too short and you must desolder it and then resolder again to the board. With the board lifted up it should be very easy to change the jumpers.

 PS. There is a plastic plate above the power section, with a text like "Stax" or "SRM-717". It was green on one of the amplifers and black on the other. Teh plates is attached with sticky tape and you have to remove the plate to reach the jumpers. The plate is positioned above the power transformer. You have to remove it by hand with gente but determined force, lift it upwards. It can later be reattached with the existing sticky pads (but it might happen that the sticky pads have to be renewed).

 I think that the AC fuse should be changed also but beleive that is not critical but a little safer. Fuse value was 1.5 A for 100V and 0.8 A for 240V.

 You must remove the AC fuse to see the configuration jumpers that is located just below the fuse holder. The fuse is a common 32 mm glass tube.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

^ Thanks, I'm sure Spritzer knows the jumpers configuration for any AC input voltage around the world 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 The new 727A is said that cannot be configured that way, but knowing how manufacturers work, I suppose Stax is using double or triple primary wound input AC transformers which just need to be correctly wired. Have you checked that Spritzer?
 I'm considering to set up a "mid-level" electrostatic rig, which probably would use a 717/727 amp, so knowing how it could be set for 240V even if purchsed directly from Japan, would be very helpful.

 Rgrds


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A CT secondary with a 1:25 ratio so if we have an 8ohm input it is stepped up to 5000ohm. It's basically an output transformer wired backwards._

 

Thanks for the info. I will ask the guy to price this according to these specs. Unfortunately this takes months to do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No sense of urgency with these creative designer types


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ Thanks, I'm sure Spritzer knows the jumpers configuration for any AC input voltage around the world 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

I do but it has also been posted here many times on the forums. Do a search for SRM-313 rewiring or something like that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new 727A is said that cannot be configured that way, but knowing how manufacturers work, I suppose Stax is using double or triple primary wound input AC transformers which just need to be correctly wired. Have you checked that Spritzer?
 I'm considering to set up a "mid-level" electrostatic rig, which probably would use a 717/727 amp, so knowing how it could be set for 240V even if purchsed directly from Japan, would be very helpful.

 Rgrds_

 

The fuseholders have been abandoned now with the new amps and the voltage configuration is done on the main board. The only problem is that Stax cuts off the 120v wires on the transformers so you need to start by opening it up and adding new lead wires. They have also printed some wrong information on the PCB but at it's core it is still the same procedure by arranging jumper wires on the PCB after the same 1-6 code. It's just much harder with the missing wires...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. I will ask the guy to price this according to these specs. Unfortunately this takes months to do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No sense of urgency with these creative designer types 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cool. I've also been meaning to try out some output trafo's from Hammond and the like but I never get around to it.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

^ Thanks Spritzer. Knowing it can be done without replacing the whole trannie, I see no problem to take whatever opportunity arises. I suppose you could give an e-hand if needed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Rgrds


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ Thanks Spritzer. Knowing it can be done without replacing the whole trannie, I see no problem to take whatever opportunity arises. I suppose you could give an e-hand if needed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rgrds_

 

Sure


----------



## Anders

Cool_Torpedo, I don't think so. I would not even think of rewiring a 727 or 323. That's for the experts. A 007t or 717 is much simpler.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool_Torpedo, I don't think so. I would not even think of rewiring a 727 or 323. That's for the experts. A 007t or 717 is much simpler._

 

Thanks for the hint Anders. Fortunately I have expert friends for such work, I'd just need to tell them what to wire and where. They'd surely guess it, but it would take some time, which they don't have.
 In any case for all your comments in this thread and other Stax related ones, looks like the 717 is a more interesting unit than the new 727. If being "user self configurable" is an added bonus...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rgrds


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm considering to set up a "mid-level" electrostatic rig, which probably would use a 717/727 amp, so knowing how it could be set for 240V even if purchsed directly from Japan, would be very helpful._

 

Anyone looking for the voltage jumper configuration for a 717/007t PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF file with that information.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Thanks a lot, PM sent 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rgrds


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What should the specs be? My friend makes custom hand-wound transformers based on old USSR military iron with silver or copper wire. He is actually hand winding choke transformer for my amp right now. I can ask him how much will it cost to make these....._

 

Silver wired transformers would be sweet indeed!
 But probably insane expensive and hence not "worth" it... Please let us know.


----------



## Victor Chew

I am not familiar with the stax amps and headphones but intend to buy a setup soon. Can anyone tell me if I can connect the ipod directly to the amp pls?


----------



## milkpowder

1/8" (3.5mm) mini-jack to RCA adapter will do the job.


----------



## Victor Chew

Can I pass it through the LOD?


----------



## milkpowder

Yup. Many different ways:

 1) LOD with 1/8" jack -> 1/8" plug to RCA plugs cable -> Stax amp

 2) LOD with 1/8" jack -> 1/8" plug to 1/8" plug cable -> 1/8" jack to RCA plugs -> Stax amp

 3) LOD with 1/8" plug -> 1/8" jack to RCA plugs cable -> Stax amp

 4) Dock with RCA jacks -> RCA plug to RCA plug cable -> Stax amp





 5) LOD with RCA plugs -> Stax amp





 The last two are by far the most convenient method.


----------



## tako_tsubo

you could also go Wadia itransport and connect to a nice dac and then regular RCA's to the stax amp. The ipod dac is not all that great and the stax system is very revealing...so adding a dac would greatly increase your experience, unless you have an IMOD.


----------



## Victor Chew

Thanks a lot. I would like to start off with a set-up. Are there any levels to generally distinguish the sound quality of the setups please (ie. Audionote uses level 0 to 5 to differentiate their sound quailty, with 5 being the "best", and I do find it useful)? My reading tells me that for headphones, the Omega 2 headphones are in the top tier and the blue hawaii for the amp, but I was thinking of something in the middle to start off.


----------



## ueyteuor

Did i fry my srm212?? I was messing with it, opened, to have a look, and something i did caused a short (there was a little spark) and the leds turned off, and the amp wont turn on anymore... anyway to fix this or is it dead?? can i just change the fuse? i looked at the fuse, and the wire inside of it is actually broke, its not a full side to side wire anymore.. can this solve the problem if i change it?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 Thanks a lot. I would like to start off with a set-up. Are there any levels to generally distinguish the sound quality of the setups please (ie. Audionote uses level 0 to 5 to differentiate their sound quailty, with 5 being the "best", and I do find it useful)? My reading tells me that for headphones, the Omega 2 headphones are in the top tier and the blue hawaii for the amp, but I was thinking of something in the middle to start off. 
 

The only thing that comes to mind when you say "middle" are the Lambdas.

 The LNS is pretty similar to the O2... presentation wise (honest). But the O2s are better


----------



## krmathis

ueyteuor. I suggest you perform these steps.
 1. Take a close look through the amplifier, looking for burned components. If you see nothing obviously burned, move on to step 2.
 2. Replace the fuse with an identical valued one.

 If it still blows, consider getting a professional to fix it.


----------



## krmathis

What's up guys?
 The Stax thread is such a quiet place these days...50 hours since the previous post.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's up guys?
 The Stax thread is such a quiet place these days...50 hours since the previous post._

 

My hunch is that people think it's summer and have gone away on their hols, but here in the UK it's cold and rainy (plus, I lost out on an SRD-7 MkII and I'm still sulking... )


----------



## krmathis

^ Perhaps thats the reason.
 That there are a warm sunny summer where most fellow Stax'en live, in compariosn to here where its been grey and rainy the whole week.

 The Pro bias Stax energizers are quite sought after these days. Don't help the price that they rarely come up for sale either.
 Better luck next time though.


----------



## mopps

Because it is not particularly sunny today also here, I can maybe "help out" - or rather you can maybe help me....

 Has somebody already done the experience that SRM-007t suffers tonally from a too high operating temperature?

 Since I blow off the hot air by fan, I can touch the amplifier now also with bare hands (the amplifier stands quite cramped in a shelve), and now it seems to sound much more crisp, more energetic and "tidier". Before, I was never contented with the sound - "washed out", without bite, boring.

 Can it be that tubes suffer not only from a too low temperature tonally (especially after turning on, we all know), but also from a too high one? Perhaps, the voltage of the single tubes mistunes itself to each other under sub optimum operating conditions?

 Who has done similar experiences? Now well, presumably you are more clever and have the amplifier free-standing in front of you...


 Thanks and regards,
 mopps


----------



## Anders

It is possible that too high operating temperature could affect the sound negatively as well as tube and component durability. I have never tested to cool it, but I have not got any impression that it runs too hot. I have it on a shelf in a rack, but there is rather much free space above the amp and the rack is open on the back and on the sides. So that makes it rather close to free-standing. But I am not sure if that is important because air seems to enter the amp though the ventilation holes at the bottom and go up through the holes on the top.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's up guys?
 The Stax thread is such a quiet place these days...50 hours since the previous post._

 

I have been working in the Washington DC area for the last week.
 I haven't been able to listen to any music. My new SRM-1 MKII
 has arrived and is sitting in the box until I get home. I really want to
 get home and crank it up in my system. auggghhhhh! The agony of
 waiting!


----------



## educator

Help! I can't seem to adjust the volume of the channels separately on my 717 amp. When I turn the inner knob, it spins freely and the volume doesn't change. 

 Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *educator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Help! I can't seem to adjust the volume of the channels separately on my 717 amp. When I turn the inner knob, it spins freely and the volume doesn't change. 

 Does anyone have any ideas?_

 

The two screws that hold the inner part are loose but you will need to remove the front panel to get to them. Remove the top and bottom covers and there are two screws on the top and bottom which hold the front panel to the substructure. Take care with the power led but it should be easy to fix.


----------



## Victor Chew

Thanks a lot for the help? I think I know where to start off better now.


----------



## scompton

I just received a pair of K-Mart stats I won on eBay. I haven't had a chance to listen yet and they need to air out a little. The adapter weighs a ton. It's the heaviest adapter I own by a good margin. It also has RCA jacks. 

 I just opened up the adapter and it is very simple. The inputs go to the switch and then either to the speaker outs or to the transformers through an unlabeled cap. From the transformer, it goes straight to the 6 pin jack. The jack looks like a normal bias Stax jack, but I don't have one in front of me to see. The center pin and the top pin of the jack are not connected to anything. I've never opened my Stax adapters so I don't know how this compares to them. 

 The RCA jacks are speaker outs.


----------



## edstrelow

I was looking up the Stax History site and noted that the gamma and alpha models seemed to be only made as pro phones. Am I right that there are no low bias gamma or alphas?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received a pair of K-Mart stats I won on eBay. I haven't had a chance to listen yet. The adapter weighs a ton. It's the heaviest adapter I own by a good margin. It also has RCA jacks. The RCA jacks are speaker outs._

 

Hooraw! Kmart does it again! We've gotta have photos, of course, and a listening test performed at a Kmart store.

 I'm assuming this is another of the SR-3 clones.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hooraw! Kmart does it again! We've gotta have photos, of course, and a listening test performed at a Kmart store.

 I'm assuming this is another of the SR-3 clones._

 

I'll take pics tomorrow. Right now they produce a lot of static and low music volume in the right channel. They've only been plugged in for 15 minutes though. The right ear cup has been abused. They had very little padding for shipping and I think the adapter ripped the ear pad off the right ear cup. The ear pad is clamped on, so it really ripped. Also, 2 of the posts that screw the baffle are broken. 

 Just putting the pad on was interesting. They really have 2 baffles. The 1st is solidly attached to the ear cup. The driver is attached to the inside of it. The 2nd baffle attaches to the the 1st with 4 screws. A metal ring is in between them and the ear pad clamps between the outer baffle and the ring. The posts that are broken are the ones the outer baffle screws into, so I don't think that will be much of a problem. 

 I think there's a loose wire, or at least a bad solder joint in the right ear cup causing the static, because it gets worse if I move the cable. So when I take it apart tomorrow, I'll take pictures.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking up the Stax History site and noted that the gamma and alpha models seemed to be only made as pro phones. Am I right that there are no low bias gamma or alphas?_

 

The Alphas were Pro only but there was a normal bias Gamma model. There were also two versions (at least) of the Gamma Pro, one which is like the SR-Alpha Pro with the smaller pads and a thin damping layer on the back of the drivers and then the "New/Neu2 version which as the Alpha Pro Excellent earpads and an open back. They didn't have the PC-OCC cable though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm assuming this is another of the SR-3 *NEW* clones._

 

Fixed it for you...


----------



## GuyMe

I put the SR-X pads on my ET-1000 and the difference is night and day. Went from being less comfortable than a grado to being about as comfortable a supraaural as I've worn. Most importantly the difference in pads doesn't seem to have shifted the frequency response in a noticeable way.

 Thanks to smeggy for the donation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## ludoo

I have pestered Spritzer by email between yesterday and today on a pair of SR-3N I recently got from a fellow member. They have a serious imbalance on the right channel, which (mostly) comes and (seldom) goes. Among the different possible causes suggested by Spritzer, the most likely one seems to be

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 
_Could be the cable on top of the electret effect. If the bias supply is only intermittent then the diaphragm charges up and then slowly drops in volume until it gets some charge again or drains completely. The other wires behave differently and you will get distortion and the like if one cuts out as well as diminished output._

 

So tonight I opened up the right earcup (click on the pics for high res images)





 unscrewed the blue wire and cleaned the contact (risking to lose the microscopic pin that actually makes the contact, I knew it was there only after it pinged on the table surface)





 Any difference? No, if anything the situation is worse as now they seem to be pemanently imbalanced.

 So, a couple of questions for the gurus.

 Can I check the bias with a multimeter to at least make sure it's not a problem in the cable? And how would I go about that, what goes were and what should be the reading?

 How else can I try to clean the contact, and/or what can I check apart from that?


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hola amigos !

 Wich one would be a better entry in this new world for me,

 SR-303 & SRM-1/mk2, or
 SR-303 & SRM-313

 What could go wrong with a +20 years old Stax amplifier? Easy maintenance or a nightmare if things go wrong?

 Muchas gracias,_

 

I've got the sr-202 and sr-404 with srm-313 and now the srm1 mkII.
 Hands down, get the srm-1 mkII. It tames the upper midrange.
 The sr202 seems to sound better than the 404 off the srm-313.
 But others may have a different opinion. For me, I'm keeping the 
 SRM-1. The one I just got sounds great, but the ebay description of
 "minor scuffs" is a bit off. I'd call it major scuffs along the top edges.
 But EBAY is different than buying off Audiogon.
 I really need to sell off all this extra gear I've got.


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got the sr-202 and sr-404 with srm-313 and now the srm1 mkII.
 Hands down, get the srm-1 mkII. It tames the upper midrange.
 The sr202 seems to sound better than the 404 off the srm-313.
 But others may have a different opinion. For me, I'm keeping the 
 SRM-1. The one I just got sounds great, but the ebay description of
 "minor scuffs" is a bit off. I'd call it major scuffs along the top edges.
 But EBAY is different than buying off Audiogon.
 I really need to sell off all this extra gear I've got._

 

How about SR-202 vs. SR-404 with the SRM-1/MK-2 Pro?

 I just got the SR-404 and I like them a fair amount more than the SR-Lambda Pro. They are much fuller sounding in the mids and the upper midrange IMO is smoother than the SR-Lambda Pro, most noticeable with very "hot" recordings.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Hey Peter...glad you are liking the sr 404's!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PeterDLai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about SR-202 vs. SR-404 with the SRM-1/MK-2 Pro?

 I just got the SR-404 and I like them a fair amount more than the SR-Lambda Pro. They are much fuller sounding in the mids and the upper midrange IMO is smoother than the SR-Lambda Pro, most noticeable with very "hot" recordings._

 

I like just about anything better than the SR-Lambda Pro.


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Peter...glad you are liking the sr 404's!_

 

Thanks. I am a bit sad that I missed out on a pair of SR-5NB that was being sold here, as Larry (HeadphoneAddict) pointed out that they might suit me perfectly.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like just about anything better than the SR-Lambda Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

IMO the best of the Lambda series is the SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro & Lambda Signature (in no order). Many on this thread would agree. If you want to break away from the Lambda series upper midrange brightness try a Koss ESP-950. When I'm not listening to my O2 I find myself listening to the Koss.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PeterDLai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about SR-202 vs. SR-404 with the SRM-1/MK-2 Pro?

 I just got the SR-404 and I like them a fair amount more than the SR-Lambda Pro. They are much fuller sounding in the mids and the upper midrange IMO is smoother than the SR-Lambda Pro, most noticeable with very "hot" recordings._

 

The sr-202 has a bit less detail.
 The sound on many recordings seems better on the sr-202/srm313 combo
 than the sr404/srm313 combo. Sometimes less is more!
 I haven't spent any time with the sr202 on the new(old) amp.
 I just got back in town and have only a couple hours of listening time with the srm1 mkII.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO the best of the Lambda series is the SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro & Lambda Signature (in no order). Many on this thread would agree. If you want to break away from the Lambda series upper midrange brightness try a Koss ESP-950. When I'm not listening to my O2 I find myself listening to the Koss._

 

What I discovered went against all of the head-fi knowledge 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Well maybe not that dramatic, but I found I like SR-Lambda Nova Signature more than any other Lambdas. I heard Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, SR-202, SR-404 and had SR-Lambda and SR-303 for a year. I would rank what I had and heard is this way:

 SR-Lambda Nova Signature
 SR-Lambda
 SR-404/303 (I did not hear much difference at all)
 SR-Lambda Signature
 SR-202
 SR-Lambda Pro

 I sold my SR-Lambda since I found that for the kind of music I was using it for (rock) I like ESP/950 better. I would still say it is one of the best Lambdas and Lambda Pro is the one that has the sound signature that differs from the rest. I also disliked the SR-Lambda Signature a bit, since it has this artificial glare to it's sound and irregularities in HF response that bothered me.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I discovered went against all of the head-fi knowledge 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Well maybe not that dramatic, but I found I like SR-Lambda Nova Signature more than any other Lambdas. I heard Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, SR-202, SR-404 and had SR-Lambda and SR-303 for a year. I would rank what I had and heard is this way:

 SR-Lambda Nova Signature
 SR-Lambda
 SR-404/303 (I did not hear much difference at all)
 SR-Lambda Signature
 SR-202
 SR-Lambda Pro

 I sold my SR-Lambda since I found that for the kind of music I was using it for (rock) I like ESP/950 better. I would still say it is one of the best Lambdas and Lambda Pro is the one that has the sound signature that differs from the rest. I also disliked the SR-Lambda Signature a bit, since it has this artificial glare to it's sound and irregularities in HF response that bothered me._

 

Oops, I forgot about the Lambda Nova Signature. I like the LNS very much as well. It has a nice balance of detail with minimal glare. The SR-Lambda has a almost perfect tonal balance that is easy to listen to. My speaker system is a pair of Audiostatic ES-100's (highly modded) and they have a very laid back presentation (which I like) and the Lambda Pro has one of the most laid back midranges of the Lambda group. If I could have the balance of the SR-Lambda, the laid back midrange of the Lambda Pro, the overall detail of the LNS, the bass/midbass of the Lambda Sig., and the upper treble detail of the 404 you would have a perfect Lambda. The most frustrating of the group is the 303/404, it is almost perfect except for the upper midrange flaw which is a deal breaker for me.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO the best of the Lambda series is the SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro & Lambda Signature (in no order). Many on this thread would agree. If you want to break away from the Lambda series upper midrange brightness try a Koss ESP-950. When I'm not listening to my O2 I find myself listening to the Koss._

 

I just think the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature are much better than the pro, and even liked the SR-5NB better.

 I did just buy Birgir's ESP/950 this morning


----------



## Kabeer

Are there any head-fiers in London with a Stax setup they would let me listen to?
 Im looking at more the vintage stuff really, but want to see what all the fuss is about 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 Thanks


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My speaker system is a pair of Audiostatic ES-100's (highly modded) and they have a very laid back presentation (which I like) and the Lambda Pro has one of the most laid back midranges of the Lambda group._

 

I can see (and hear) why you rate the SR-Lambda Pro highly now. The laid back presentation is just not for me.


----------



## Tachikoma

The Lambda Pro is more laidback than the LNS? o_O My LPs are downright forward, rivalling my SR-5NB in this regard.

 My pair could contain SR-404 drivers though


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PeterDLai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got the SR-404 and I like them a fair amount more than the SR-Lambda Pro. They are much fuller sounding in the mids and the upper midrange IMO is smoother than the SR-Lambda Pro, most noticeable with very "hot" recordings._

 

I enjoy the SR-404 more than the SR-Lambda Pro as well. Hence why I sold my two pair of SR-Lambda Pro's, but kept the SR-404.
 They are both really great headphones, with the SR-404 a little but ahead in the sound department.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambda Pro is more laidback than the LNS? o_O My LPs are downright forward, rivalling my SR-5NB in this regard.

 My pair could contain SR-404 drivers though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

LNS in my opinion has the most linear response of all the Lambdas. Lambda Pro on the other hand has sucked-out mids and prominent bass and HF response. The mids, although sucked-out, are very smooth detailed, that makes for strange listening experience, that I do not like.


----------



## Tachikoma

Erm, how would you define "midrange suck out", actually? What sort of music do you use to look for that? Because I think my LPs are rather midrangey, if anything. The lows aren't that prominent, and neither are the highs (although it does have a treble peak that can make it unfriendly with some music). I've mentioned this before, but my first impression of them was that they sounded more like my SR-5 than the other lambdas I've heard before (LNS, SR-303).


----------



## yale.reinstein

Should have asked here to begin with... What is the best way to ground my SRM-252? I get a hum that I never noticed with the SR-202. I only have speaker wire, should I try attaching it to the back? I can only think to ground it to my large metal table. Any thoughts?

 Btw, after a long journey I now have krmathis' second pair of Lambda Pros...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should have asked here to begin with... What is the best way to ground my SRM-252? I get a hum that I never noticed with the SR-202. I only have speaker wire, should I try attaching it to the back? I can only think to ground it to my large metal table. Any thoughts?

 Btw, after a long journey I now have krmathis' second pair of Lambda Pros..._

 

I had the same problem with an SRM-323 and a pair of SR-303.
 If I plugged my SR-007 into the SRM-523, there was no hum.

 If I plugged the SR-303 into my SRM-717 and the hum was still present .

 Conclusion: There was nothing wrong with the SRM-323 amp.

 Conclusion confirmed: I got hold of a pair of SR-404. Plugged them into the SRM-523 and there was/is no hum.

 I will now try my hand at recabling the SR-303.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## yale.reinstein

I don't think it's the headphones, if I touch the amp or ground it with RCA cables (from the RCA loop out) the humming goes away. I found a post here that explains a good way to get rid of the humming on this amp, but I don't exactly feel comfortable making something that goes near anything high voltage, and it seems annoying to have to do this. I guess I'm just stuck unless somebody thinks of something else I could do? I tried a wire to my metal table but it doesn't seem to work.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's the headphones, if I touch the amp or ground it with RCA cables (from the RCA loop out) the humming goes away._

 

Just like my sr-303 phones. With other phones connected - no problem.
 Try connecting another phone -

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Erm, how would you define "midrange suck out", actually? What sort of music do you use to look for that? Because I think my LPs are rather midrangey, if anything. The lows aren't that prominent, and neither are the highs (although it does have a treble peak that can make it unfriendly with some music). I've mentioned this before, but my first impression of them was that they sounded more like my SR-5 than the other lambdas I've heard before (LNS, SR-303)._

 

Well there is nothing to define really. There is a clear dip in mids. 






 LNS on the other hand has very flat FR:






 Even more so than the original Lambda. My ears confirm this data as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But since you had drivers or membranes replaced, god knows how your set sounds now, maybe it's better maybe it's not. That is why I always try to buy completely intact original headphones. I don't trust any mods unless I know the person who is doing the mods very well I trust their ears.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's the headphones, if I touch the amp or ground it with RCA cables (from the RCA loop out) the humming goes away. I found a post here that explains a good way to get rid of the humming on this amp, but I don't exactly feel comfortable making something that goes near anything high voltage, and it seems annoying to have to do this. I guess I'm just stuck unless somebody thinks of something else I could do? I tried a wire to my metal table but it doesn't seem to work._

 


 A metal table doesn't provide ground. You need something like a water pipe or radiator that is connected to ground.


----------



## Anders

The frequency curves are rather similar for all Lambdas and they have a small peak between 1 - 2 kHz, that is upper midrange to treble. They have a dip at 4 - 5 kHz. This dip is a little deeper for Lambda and Lambda Pro but this is in the treble.

 There is a midrange dip in the upper graph, but that is in the distortion curve as I understand it.


----------



## fuzzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_....... I did not get a chance to compare them, but the 323 outputs 400v, while the srm1mk2 outputs 370v so they will probably sound close. Even Headphoneaddict felt that the woo amp was only 15% better than the srm1/mk2 pro...yet costs 4 times as much. 
 The srm 717 that I just got outputs just 450v but really makes the SR007 the headphone that I had hoped it would be...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




......
_

 

I wrote a detailed comparo of the SRM MK2 vs the 717 years ago on the Headwize site, I wonder if that is still arround? The 717 is an amazing amp but I plug my Omega into a portable battery powered Stax amp (fogot the name right now) frequently and the Omega still sounds great and would be my choice over a Senn 650 with my ipod.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 Even more so than the original Lambda. My ears confirm this data as well But since you had drivers or membranes replaced, god knows how your set sounds now, maybe it's better maybe it's not. That is why I always try to buy completely intact original headphones. I don't trust any mods unless I know the person who is doing the mods very well I trust their ears. 
 

I'll go with "better" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I'd prefer a sad face EQ over a smiley face EQ.


----------



## fuzzy

I have been out of the online headphone loop for a few years but WOW, you guys got the mother of all threads going here! Congrats!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is a reason why I still own my 2 Lamda Pros in addition to Signature, 404, Lamda etc. They are very special and share the same space with the Omegas in my collection. I personally feel the lamda pro is better then the later generation lamdas but this is subjective, you know? I also own the diffusefield equalizer that was made to go with these phones in the late 80s. This unit profoundly changes the midrange of the pro and makes them very suitable to certain live recordings. I feel the Omegas were a result of that reseach (but am guessing).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

HELP!

 I only have a few days to decide if I want to do the maxed upgrades (caps and resistors) in my new Woo GES that is being built. I did add an RCA loop out, and a normal bias jack next to the pro bias jack, so it could make it easier for me to part with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro someday. But, I can't afford the "Max" for another $680 without going into debt, because Spritzer took all my money in exchange for his Stax cabled Koss ESP950. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The new GES already comes with "High-performance Solen and WIMA capacitors". On the Woo Website this is what he says about the upgrades:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Woo Audio* 
_Premium parts upgrade package. $680
 We carefully selected the best possible audiophile graded parts that bring the ultimate performance from the amplifier. Parts upgrade are intended for amplifier purchase, not to be sold on a standalone basis.
 Auricap interstage coupling caps, 0.22uf/400V
 Auricap output coupling caps, 2uf/600V
 Auricap interstage coupling caps, 1uf/600V
 Mills resistors, 82kohms/12w
 Mills resistors, 47kohms/12w
 Mills resistors, 2.2kohms/5w
 Mills resistors, 300ohms/50w_

 


 The most important caps for a partial upgrade can be broken down to 2 sets. First set is the .22/400v ($240). Second set is 2u/400v ($270).

*So, can I please get some advice from the ex-spurts about whether to stick with the base model vs maxed (as noted above), or vs the partial upgrades of either output coupling caps and/or interstage coupling caps?* I liked the used 3 year old Prototype GES enough to buy it, but Jack assured me that the current production model would be a noticeable upgrade. So I paid extra to have him build me a new one. Not once did he pressure me to go Maxed, but the thought is now nudging the back of my mind, to make sure I'm okay without the Max. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks! I know there could be worse things to be worried about.


----------



## spritzer

Better caps will let more information through but you could always have them upgrade the unit later. 

 Ohh and you are far from maxed out with Auricaps, I would personally go for Mundorf silver/golds but they aren't cheap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fuzzy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a reason why I still own my 2 Lamda Pros in addition to Signature, 404, Lamda etc. They are very special and share the same space with the Omegas in my collection. I personally feel the lamda pro is better then the later generation lamdas but this is subjective, you know? I also own the diffusefield equalizer that was made to go with these phones in the late 80s. This unit profoundly changes the midrange of the pro and makes them very suitable to certain live recordings. I feel the Omegas were a result of that reseach (but am guessing)._

 

The original Omega was born out of a project to rethink how the earpeakers were desinged i.e. start from scratch with a different type of transducer and even new D/S gap and higher bias. They did of course use what experience they had but thank god that the SR-Omega sounds nothing like the Pro's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-007 just built on that research with a stiffer chassis, better earpad design, much better headband and more inert drivers with acoustic damping.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better caps will let more information through but you could always have them upgrade the unit later. 

 Ohh and you are far from maxed out with Auricaps, I would personally go for Mundorf silver/golds but they aren't cheap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




_

 

I don't believe they will upgrade the unit later, once it is built. When I asked about buying the prototype and upgrading it to the current production in the future, Jack Wu said the space constraints inside the already built-up chassis would not make that a viable option. 

 And, I'm referring the the Maxed as the most options "available" to add before Woo builds and ships it, not as the world views it


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't believe they will upgrade the unit later, once it is built. When I asked about buying the prototype and upgrading it to the current production in the future, Jack Wu said the space constraints inside the already built-up chassis would not make that a viable option. 

 And, I'm referring the the Maxed as the most options "available" to add before Woo builds and ships it, not as the world views it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well swapping out caps isn't that hard so just about anybody can do it. It will also be quite a bit cheaper then having Woo Audio do it... I do find it strange that they aren't willing to upgrade their own amps with their own listed upgrades. 

 I was just yanking your chain with the Mundorfs but the Auricaps are very good and there isn't really any need to spend more. You will always get to the stage where a different design is a better way forward.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well swapping out caps isn't that hard so just about anybody can do it. It will also be quite a bit cheaper then having Woo Audio do it... I do find it strange that they aren't willing to upgrade their own amps with their own listed upgrades. 

 I was just yanking your chain with the Mundorfs but the Auricaps are very good and there isn't really any need to spend more. You will always get to the stage where a different design is a better way forward._

 

Well' we don't actually know that he won't apply his own upgrades later - all we know is that it was too much trouble to bring the prototype up to current specs.

 As a matter od fact, he did apply the "pseudo-dual power supply mod" to my maxed WA6 in May, which divides the power going to the driver tubes with resistor and caps, so they don't see each other.

 I'll have to email him, but he'll never get any work done if I don't leave him alone.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well' we don't actually know that he won't apply his own upgrades later - all we know is that it was too much trouble to bring the prototype up to current specs.

 As a matter od fact, he did apply the "pseudo-dual power supply mod" to my maxed WA6 in May, which divides the power going to the driver tubes with resistor and caps, so they don't see each other.

 I'll have to email him, but he'll never get any work done if I don't leave him alone._

 

The prototype might be a different matter as they seem to have changed the layout somewhat over the years. At least the internal pics I've seen aren't always identical. You could perhaps have them build the amp as to make upgrades easier in the future by leaving enough room for the larger caps and the supports they need.


----------



## ktm

Two days and no post? NOOOOOOOOO!

 So to break up this lull, I went back to listen to my Senn 650's with
 ASL MG-head and Cardas cable. 
 The Senn's sound dark and lifeless. They do get an A+ in comfort, though.
 The Senn sound doesn't sound bad, they just don't involve you in the music.
 The sr-404 with the srm1 mkII has a bit less highs and detail than using the
 srm-313, but this is a good thing. Combined with warm cables and a NOS DAC,
 they sound very good. Plenty of detail and speed. Good bass impact. Piano
 and horns sound lifelike. There are some recordings that always had rough spots. 
 There's some Norah Jones tunes where her voice always took on a 
 harsh edge. The Stax makes it sound right! Upright bass was often a problem for speakers. 
 Once again, Stax handles it well. I really need to spend time at
 the next head-fi meet with some of the classic Stax models. At this point
 it's hard to imagine how much better it could sound.
 Time to sell off old headphones.


----------



## ericj

I've finally gone and done it. I bought a pair of headphones for more than $100. 

 Just snagged an SR-Lambda for $265 including SRD-7 and extension cord. 

 Sounds like not a bad price considering how much i know some have paid for the old Lambda recently. Looks from the pictures like it's in good condition. 

 Nothing like the thrill of my sub-$100 SR-X III + SRD-7 snipe last year, but, they can't all be extreme bargains.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Two days and no post? NOOOOOOOOO!_

 

Yeah, it seems like the Stax thread are slow going these days. No idea why really....
 At least some of us still enjoy our Stax'en! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-404 are indeed a great headphone, and I found the SRM-1/MK2 Pro to be a quite nice matching amplifier. Its a reason why I decided to keep my SR-404 when I parted with my SR-Lambda Pro's and SR-X/MK3 (Pro).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've finally gone and done it. I bought a pair of headphones for more than $100. 

 Just snagged an SR-Lambda for $265 including SRD-7 and extension cord.

 Sounds like not a bad price considering how much i know some have paid for the old Lambda recently. Looks from the pictures like it's in good condition_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 $265 seems like a quite nice deal. The SR-Lambda are sought after these days, which reflect in their going price.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nothing like the thrill of my sub-$100 SR-X III + SRD-7 snipe last year, but, they can't all be extreme bargains._

 

Yeah, nothing like those really nice deals.
 Like the SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7mk2 I scored last year for $140, at a time where the SRD-7mk2 alone usually sold for around $250...

 Too bad such deals are quite rare these days!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 $265 seems like a quite nice deal. The SR-Lambda are sought after these days, which reflect in their going price._

 

Yes. And somehow, last night, there were two pair on ebay - from the same seller. The other with an SRD7SB. Same price. I wonder who got it. 

 You just never know what deal will show up. 

 I might decide there's no reason for me to own two SRD-7's, if anyone needs one.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Adding some impressions after listening to the O2 for about an hour: Fit and finish is a tad behind the MK2 but that's to be expected from a revised design. Similar to the MK2, earcups and pads can swivel independently from each other but often lose their position which does not occur on the MK2. The pressure applied by the archs is no where close to the MK2, so slight movements while they're on your head can cause them to slip off. 
 While the MK2 beats the original from the build perspective, the sound is a different story. To put it simply, the O2 sounds more extended and neutral compared to the MK2. Bass goes deeper and has more slam. Highs have a tad more reach and sparkle. There seems to be some sort of "muffle" from the MK2 relative to the original and becomes more apparent when listening to certain genres of music. I guess this is the mid-bass hump that spritzer had mentioned earlier. The MK2 is indeed a fantastic headphone, but if there's a choice, I'd go for the original. If only the original had the new pads and archs...that would make the perfect headphone for me. Anyways, back to the music.

 P.S. Thanks to Craig, aka Loberstan, for the awesome service! Received the headphones in 3 business days without any hassles @ customs.


----------



## dvse

Fit and finish is in fact exactly the same (arguably, coating on Mk1 is of higher quality compared to 007A) - the differences you are experiencing are almost certainly due to:

 1.) Previous owner bending the arcs
 2.) Worn out earpads (foam inside loses shape after a while, even if they look okay from the outside)
 3.) A small difference in the thickness of earpad material which may affect how easily they turn.

 There is also a remote possibility of incorrect disassembly / reassembly without properly fastening the screws.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Adding some impressions after listening to the O2 for about an hour: Fit and finish is a tad behind the MK2 but that's to be expected from a revised design. Similar to the MK2, earcups and pads can swivel independently from each other but often lose their position which does not occur on the MK2. The pressure applied by the archs is no where close to the MK2, so slight movements while they're on your head can cause them to slip off. 
 While the MK2 beats the original from the build perspective, the sound is a different story. To put it simply, the O2 sounds more extended and neutral compared to the MK2. Bass goes deeper and has more slam. Highs have a tad more reach and sparkle. There seems to be some sort of "muffle" from the MK2 relative to the original and becomes more apparent when listening to certain genres of music. I guess this is the mid-bass hump that spritzer had mentioned earlier. The MK2 is indeed a fantastic headphone, but if there's a choice, I'd go for the original. If only the original had the new pads and archs...that would make the perfect headphone for me. Anyways, back to the music._

 

I find the fit and finish on the O2 and O2II to be the same. Your description of the difference in sound is almost exactly what I hear. You can always upgrade the pads (although they will be black instead of brown).


----------



## spritzer

Bend the arcs for a tighter fit but the earpads on the Mk2 stand higher so you need to factor that in. Due to the unique and truly brilliant headband design (even distribution of force to name one thing) they need to be in the correct position to support the phones. The sound will also suffer if they are too loose or too tight. 

 If the earpads are much softer then the Mk2 units then they need to be replaced. The leather will look fine but the foam inside is shot. 

 The Mk1 earpads are 100% real leather but the Mk2 units only have leather in select spots and that affects the way they rotate. The leather lip which secures the pads is thin leather on the Mk1 but some nasty, loose vinyl on the Mk2 which causes them to move a lot less due to the extra thickness. 

 The Mk1 and Mk2 are identical except for a the springs inside the pads and the finish on the Mk1 is superior IMO but it doesn't conform to the RoHS nonsense.


----------



## Anders

How do I know if the earpads are too soft? I bought my 007 used. The pads keep the shape and are elastic but feel a little soft compared to other headphones and softer than the 404's, though that is difficult to compare because the pads on the 404's are not so thick.

 Easy to change pads?


----------



## scompton

For those interested, I posted some pics of the K-Mart SR-3 clones.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/k-m...9/#post4636807


----------



## 2deadeyes

Yep, I bent the archs a bit and now the fit is much better. The pads looks a bit worn but they still seem to retain some stiffness so they should last a little bit more. One thing that bothers me is the leather headband. The spandex appears to have lost its elasticity (see pics). Is there any way to replace the headband itself?

 In terms of sound, I'm liking the sound of the original more and more. Placing the MK2 on after hearing the originals for while, I can't stand that "muffle" present on the MK2 and immediately go back to the originals. I may consider selling the MK2.


----------



## dvse

I've bought a spare from EIFL a while ago but he doesn't have the brown ones anymore, only the black for SR-007A.


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

nice pic. love the two side by side. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe i made the right choice going for the MKI model.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do I know if the earpads are too soft? I bought my 007 used. The pads keep the shape and are elastic but feel a little soft compared to other headphones and softer than the 404's, though that is difficult to compare because the pads on the 404's are not so thick._

 

It's tough to describe in text but the pads should offer some resistance to being crushed so if they are really soft I would swap them out. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Easy to change pads?_

 

They are probably the hardest earpads to replace though there is no nasty glue to mess with. They are held in place by an internal spring and a leather "lip" which is inserted into a slot on the headphones. You need to fix the spring in place on the pads and on the earpiece (there is a second "lip" inside the pads used to secure the spring in place though secure is an overstatement) then you pull the outer lip and place it in the slot the whole 360°. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, I bent the archs a bit and now the fit is much better. The pads looks a bit worn but they still seem to retain some stiffness so they should last a little bit more. One thing that bothers me is the leather headband. The spandex appears to have lost its elasticity (see pics). Is there any way to replace the headband itself?

 In terms of sound, I'm liking the sound of the original more and more. Placing the MK2 on after hearing the originals for while, I can't stand that "muffle" present on the MK2 and immediately go back to the originals. I may consider selling the MK2._

 

I would ask Yama's about a replacement arc assembly but odds are that you don't need one. The elastic used on the Mk1 is much looser then the one used on the Mk2/A and holds up very well. In fact it is still like new on my 5 year old set which has seen pretty heavy use. 

 I must say that my SR-007A is very close to the Mk1 with the small mods in place with only a bit more forward presentation which I kind of like. PM me if you want to mess with your expensive headphones...


----------



## moonboy403

Did anyone ever try using a Marantz energizer for Stax headphones?

 From the look of it, it's normal bias. I'm just wondering if it'll be any different than the energizer I'm using, which is the SRD7/NB.


----------



## scompton

It's an transformer for the Marantz SE-1. I don't know if it's compatible with Stax. My Magnavox, which is a SR-3 clone, uses a Stax plug and jack but the wiring is different so they're not compatible.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I must say that my SR-007A is very close to the Mk1 with the small mods in place with only a bit more forward presentation which I kind of like. PM me if you want to mess with your expensive headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

PM sent.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moonboy403* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did anyone ever try using a Marantz energizer for Stax headphones?

 From the look of it, it's normal bias. I'm just wondering if it'll be any different than the energizer I'm using, which is the SRD7/NB._

 

If you search a bit, potentially using ludoo's search tool (check his signature), you'll find some more information about the marantz ee-1. 

 I believe i recall that the bias voltage is 200v, but I could be remembering that wrong. 

 Also, the bias resistor in the EE-1 is about 3x what you'd find in a normal-bias Stax energizer. Actually, there are two. Right in the bias supply there's one around 5 megohms, like you'd find in an SRD-6, and then there's an additional 10 megohm resistor closer to the jacks. 

 In theory, you could install 10 megohm resistors in the SE-1 earcups and jumper the 10 megohm resistor in the EE-1. Maybe. And then rewire the jacks and headphones to be staxish. 

 I have the service manual, and I've scanned it in. You can grab your own copy here - and nuts to the jerk who charged me $11 for a 2nd generation photocopy: 

http://alhaz.fttp.xmission.com/Maran...Schematics.zip


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I haven't been able to spend a lot of time with the Spritzer's ex-Koss ESP/950 with Stax PC-OCC cable yet, but I am impressed and highly recommend these to anyone. Haven't tried the Koss driver yet, and have maybe only 2 hours of head-time so far.

 My first impression is that they sound closer to a Stax than the Senn HE60 do, with a flavor that is reminiscent of the SR-5NB or SR-003 with more comfort and bigger soundstage. It's punchy and bassy and more forward than the HE60, which are more airy and etherial with and even wider/bigger/more distant soundstage. Yet the Koss also have no lack of treble sparkle (the SR-5NB sparkle a little more than my SR-003 too).

 What is interesting is the tone of the cymbals seems to be more emphasized in the lower treble with the Koss, but the HE60 in the upper treble with possibly something hollow in the lower treble - I can't put my finger on it yet but the Koss may be more accurate there. I was gonna play with some EQ on the HE60 to see if I can pinpoint the differences. Lately I've been listening to HD600 out of a balanced amp more than the HE60 because it sounds a little more natural when A/B side by side, and when balanced with a good amp and cable the HD600 are fast with no veil. I think the Koss are right up there with that natural tone, are quicker and are truly hi-end phones when using a Stax cable and amp. They sound great whether with the Woo GES prototype or the Nuforce Icon driving the SRD-7 Pro (I haven't even plugged in the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro since getting back from the Colorado Head-fi meet on 7/26/08).

 Neither the HE60 or ESP950 have the upper mids etch that can be heard in Lambdas, the degree depending on the model of Lambda. There are still times when Lambda and Lambda Sig are appropriate because of the more open soundstage with good bass and tonality, and I will spend more time over the next few weeks firming up my opinions. At this point I almost think I could live without the HE60 if I have an ESP950 and SR-Lambda Signature. No, I am not selling my HE60 (or SR-Lambda). I am looking forward to receiving my current production GES that will be done in a couple of weeks, to see how much better this gets.


----------



## J-Pak

The Koss ESP/950 are excellent headphones. I've owned a lot of high end headphones and the Koss electrostats are easily the best I've heard under $1000. 

 I agree they do not have any of the harsh upper mid Lambda etch (especially the junk modern ones).


----------



## spritzer

The He60 isn't what I'd call neutral with their slightly "off" tonal balance so the Koss wins out in my book. There is something that I never tried which might make the Koss even better. Under the metal grills is a dust cover which is too thick and will dampen the backwave and even partially reflect it. It's only held there by some small spots of glue so some ESP950 owner could try and remove it and report back...


----------



## naamanf

Any place to purchase just the ESP-950? I don't really need or want the rest of the kit.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *naamanf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any place to purchase just the ESP-950? I don't really need or want the rest of the kit._

 

I heard from someone that Koss is willing to sell them alone for 500$ if I remember correctly. Certainly worth the call...


----------



## ericj

My postal carrier hates me. Lets just say that i fought the post office and won, and this has resulted in some resentment. 

 So when i took my netflix return out to the mailbox this morning, i thought to myself, "That SR-Lambda is supposed to arrive today. Perhaps i should wait on the porch, else my mail carrier will probably sneak up, gently tap once on the door, quickly scribble out the 'come get your package' note, and scurry away". 

 And this would not be unusual. I was home one day when i heard someone half-heartedly knock on my door. When i made it to the door 30 seconds later, my mail had been delivered and my mail carrier was sitting in the truck talking on her cell phone. She drove off the second i found the note indicating that i had missed a package. 

 So it came as little surprise when i went outside an hour and a half later and found that my mail had been delivered, my doorbell had not been rung, and there was a note indicating a package i can pick up monday morning. 

 Except i work an hour away, so the post office is not yet open when i leave in the morning and long closed when i get home at night. 

 The surprise is that it wasn't my usual mail carrier. This time it was a temp. 

 I had to go down to the post office and yell at people, who tell me that the temp who failed to ring my doorbell apparently isn't carrying his phone, so they told me that i should come back at 5:30 and knock on the side door, and maybe then they'll give me my lambda.

 Oh how they torture me.


----------



## ericj

Alright, got 'em home almost two hours ago. An hour and a half of constant play has them waking up. They continue to sound better and better. 

 Unfortunately, the pollen count in this valley is off the charts and my sinuses are sixteen different kinds of inflamed, so i can't claim to have a clear opinion of them yet. 

 At the moment I'm using a makeshift rig of thrift store gear. Carver CT-3 preamp, Kenwood KM-105 power amp (reputedly 100 or 125WPC, depending on who you ask) and the SRD-7 that came with it, which is in better condition than my old one but hasn't been gone over with deoxit yet. Source is a DIY USB DAC with FLAC streaming off the linux box. 

 Two questions: 

 1: Where's a place i can get some new pads for less than what AC2 wants for 'em. Mine are a little stiff. 

 2: Strain relief on the cable entering the right side is pulled out, with a rectangular bit of metal hanging onto it. Not affecting performance, but, has to be fixed. What's the best way to proceed there?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, got 'em home almost two hours ago. An hour and a half of constant play has them waking up. They continue to sound better and better. 

 Unfortunately, the pollen count in this valley is off the charts and my sinuses are sixteen different kinds of inflamed, so i can't claim to have a clear opinion of them yet. 

 At the moment I'm using a makeshift rig of thrift store gear. Carver CT-3 preamp, Kenwood KM-105 power amp (reputedly 100 or 125WPC, depending on who you ask) and the SRD-7 that came with it, which is in better condition than my old one but hasn't been gone over with deoxit yet. Source is a DIY USB DAC with FLAC streaming off the linux box. 

 Two questions: 

 1: Where's a place i can get some new pads for less than what AC2 wants for 'em. Mine are a little stiff. 

 2: Strain relief on the cable entering the right side is pulled out, with a rectangular bit of metal hanging onto it. Not affecting performance, but, has to be fixed. What's the best way to proceed there?_

 

I hope the allergies and the sound clear up for you. I have two SR-Lambda and they both sound the same as mine that you heard at the CO meet, which is pretty sweet. Even with my SRD-7 and SRD-X they are nice.

 I'd be interested in knowing the source for pads too, but fortunately I don't need any just yet.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Don't the sr202 pads fit the Lambda/Lambda pro and are cheaper?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope the allergies and the sound clear up for you. I have two SR-Lambda and they both sound the same as mine that you heard at the CO meet, which is pretty sweet. Even with my SRD-7 and SRD-X they are nice._

 

Yeah. 







 You know this is really all your fault, right?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah. 







 You know this is really all your fault, right?_

 

Yes, of course!


----------



## Victor Chew

What kind of minimum quality source should one use in order to substantially benefit from the any stax setup?


----------



## fuzzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better caps will let more information through but you could always have them upgrade the unit later. 

 Ohh and you are far from maxed out with Auricaps, I would personally go for Mundorf silver/golds but they aren't cheap... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 The original Omega was born out of a project to rethink how the earpeakers were desinged i.e. start from scratch with a different type of transducer and even new D/S gap and higher bias. They did of course use what experience they had but thank god that the SR-Omega sounds nothing like the Pro's... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-007 just built on that research with a stiffer chassis, better earpad design, much better headband and more inert drivers with acoustic damping._

 

Ok I know a bit about the Stax history in the 80s ad 90s and their design philosophy too and I own them all but have you ever listened in depth to the Lamda Pro/ED1 Df EQ combination side by side with the Omega phones? In historical sequence? With the right recordings? Read the papers on binaural recording and diffuse field equalisation as it pertained to headphone playback frequency response in relation to state of the art stereo microphones like the Neuman KU100 and the AACHEN Head binaural recording system and listened to the recordings of the "STAX" label? Then you would know where I was coming from.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of minimum quality source should one use in order to substantially benefit from the any stax setup?_

 

if your alternative to Stax is a dynamic headphone, I'm here to tell you that you will substantially benefit if the source is better than a fisher-price cassette deck. 

 Any substantially detailed headphone can make you decide that you need a better source. Doesn't mean you're not benefiting.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I must say that my SR-007A is very close to the Mk1 with the small mods in place with only a bit more forward presentation which I kind of like. PM me if you want to mess with your expensive headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So are you now saying that the MkII is as good or better than the MkI?


----------



## fuzzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_if your alternative to Stax is a dynamic headphone, I'm here to tell you that you will substantially benefit if the source is better than a fisher-price cassette deck. 

 Any substantially detailed headphone can make you decide that you need a better source. Doesn't mean you're not benefiting._

 

I plug my ipod into my STAX Omega 717 combo and it sounds vey, very good. My ipod has my recordings in it that I burned to MP3 320 format. The Ipod has its limitations, bad enough to make it not worth to load lossless on it. This is made clear by the Omega, but it still sounds very, vey good. Stax is very revealing but I would not be afraid to plug a casette deck in it but it better be a Nak Dragon or at least a TOTL 3 head Onkyo or Technics..


----------



## Victor Chew

Stax, can be a "slippery" road, sources can be as well. After getting a particular source, one may realise that, "this is the weak link" and the wheel to upgrade and upgrade goes on and on.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fuzzy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok I know a bit about the Stax history in the 80s ad 90s and their design philosophy too and I own them all but have you ever listened in depth to the Lamda Pro/ED1 Df EQ combination side by side with the Omega phones? In historical sequence? With the right recordings? Read the papers on binaural recording and diffuse field equalisation as it pertained to headphone playback frequency response in relation to state of the art stereo microphones like the Neuman KU100 and the AACHEN Head binaural recording system and listened to the recordings of the "STAX" label? Then you would know where I was coming from._

 

These are all good points, but binaural recordings are more or less a technological dead end these days and all hope for realistic soundstage on headphones lies with infinitely more flexible custom HRTF and associated processing. Not sure if this will ever become popular though until there is a way to do individual calibration without in-ear microphones etc.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1: Where's a place i can get some new pads for less than what AC2 wants for 'em. Mine are a little stiff. 

 2: Strain relief on the cable entering the right side is pulled out, with a rectangular bit of metal hanging onto it. Not affecting performance, but, has to be fixed. What's the best way to proceed there?_

 

1: Find an online store in Japan and have a deputy service buy them for you. They shouldn't be much more then 2000Yen per pair plus all the fees and shipping. 

 2: This should be easy to fix. The metal plate slides into place with the baffle out of the way and secures the cable. Lift up the four corners of the earpads and remove the screws. Pull the baffle out and align the metal plate and cable just like on the other earcup and push into place. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of minimum quality source should one use in order to substantially benefit from the any stax setup?_

 

A good vintage dac is plenty. Most Stax phones aren't too picky and do the best with what they are fed. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fuzzy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok I know a bit about the Stax history in the 80s ad 90s and their design philosophy too and I own them all but have you ever listened in depth to the Lamda Pro/ED1 Df EQ combination side by side with the Omega phones? In historical sequence? With the right recordings? Read the papers on binaural recording and diffuse field equalisation as it pertained to headphone playback frequency response in relation to state of the art stereo microphones like the Neuman KU100 and the AACHEN Head binaural recording system and listened to the recordings of the "STAX" label? Then you would know where I was coming from._

 

The DF EQ has always sounded like crap to me and I was quick to sell my units again. The binaural recordings are fantastic for what they are but this is a very limited niche market that Stax abandoned. I've spent a lot of time over the last few months dissecting the Omega phones to help people make better DIY phones as well as fixing the damn Mk2. The Omegas have borrowed from nearly every Stax headphone ever made but Stax have simply gone down the same road a Fostex did with the T-50v1. Create a great driver and mount it to a secure platform. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So are you now saying that the MkII is as good or better than the MkI?_

 

Nope, the Mk1 is more neutral to my ears but the Mk2/A is a close second and I'm sure that many would prefer the more forward nature.


----------



## fuzzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are all good points, but binaural recordings are more or less a technological dead end these days and all hope for realistic soundstage on headphones lies with infinitely more flexible custom HRTF and associated processing. Not sure if this will ever become popular until though until there is a way to do individual calibration without in-ear microphones etc._

 

Saying that binaural is a dead end is like saying good stereo recordings are a dead end. Well, welcome, this is the high end headphone thread. After 1000s of recording I believe stereo (and binaural) is alive and well and computer HRTFs will never replace a real recording. The Stax experiements were not just about binaural but about proper equalisation of headphones. The DF eqs (ED1 monitor) do not sound like crap, I can prove that is I still have mine. Actually they are a must have in the collection of a serious Stax listener.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are all good points, but binaural recordings are more or less a technological dead end these days and all hope for realistic soundstage on headphones lies with infinitely more flexible custom HRTF and associated processing. Not sure if this will ever become popular until though until there is a way to do individual calibration without in-ear microphones etc._

 


 You know, HRTF is such a cool sounding acronym that hardly anybody remembers that it means "Head-Related Transfer Function". 

 The difference between making binaural recordings and using an additive HRTF (whether it's digital or analog) is that in the case of the binaural recording, the HRTF is attempted through physical means of an artificial head. 

 Neither method is intrinsically superior. 

 There's some research recently into how the shape of the outer ear affects some sounds. Are we going to get HRTF filters customized to our personal geometries or something? I doubt it.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fuzzy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Saying that binaural is a dead end is like saying good stereo recordings are a dead end. Well, welcome, this is the high end headphone thread. After 1000s of recording I believe stereo (and binaural) is alive and well and computer HRTFs will never replace a real recording._

 

Sure they will, at least to those people for whom standard dummy heads don't work or to those who want to listen to 99.9+% of recordings out there.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Neither method is intrinsically superior. _

 

Except one is vastly more practical and can account for individual physiology.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's some research recently into how the shape of the outer ear affects some sounds. Are we going to get HRTF filters customized to our personal geometries or something? I doubt it._

 

Absolutely we will - there is a good chance a self-assessed calibration technique is possible where no direct measurements are needed or ear model can be built up from photographs etc.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know, HRTF is such a cool sounding acronym that hardly anybody remembers that it means "Head-Related Transfer Function". 

 The difference between making binaural recordings and using an additive HRTF (whether it's digital or analog) is that in the case of the binaural recording, the HRTF is attempted through physical means of an artificial head. 

 Neither method is intrinsically superior. 

 There's some research recently into how the shape of the outer ear affects some sounds. Are we going to get HRTF filters customized to our personal geometries or something? I doubt it._

 

A binaural recording, especially if it is made with your own head will be an accurate recording of the real world sounds, from the perspective of you as the specific listener. There is no way some sort of after-the-fact or after-the-recording technique such as HRTF is going to be as accurate for any specific listener. HRTF type of processing is an approximation :

Head-related transfer function - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 This article refers to measurements being made at 15 or 30 degree lateral changes in the location of sound sources which doesn't sound too precise to me.

 As a further problem, the source material to which an HRTF processing would be applied, unless is uses microphones placed at ear -type separations has already lost or screwed up critical inter-aural time differences which are important natural stimuli to auditory dierction perception. About the only reliable stereo cue or stimulus which commercial recordings retain is inter-aural amplitude differences. An after-the-fact technique would have nothing to use to apply its processing tricks.

 So i would have to say that binaural recording is inherently superior to any after-the-fact processing system, especially if you provide the head for the recording. On the other hand I have been pretty happy with some type of after-the-fact type of processing such as Dolby Headphone, at least for movies.

 That said I don't see a much of a future for either for regular recording. Ifyou want a more realisitic headphone experience you need phones like the Stax Sigma or AKG K1000, which move the sound source ahead and away from the ear and thus let the sound flow past the ear in a natural manner rather than blasting it down the ear canal as virtually all other phones do. 

 I would have said a more speaker-like presentation except that is not actually true since phones avoid the phantom channel artifacts that speakers inevitable cause because speakers cause the right channel to go to both the right and left ear (thus making a phantom channel) and vice versa.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Nope, the Mk1 is more neutral to my ears but the Mk2/A is a close second and I'm sure that many would prefer the more forward nature._

 

The deal beaker for me about the O2A or Mk2 was the loss of deep bass. Do your mods bring it back?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The deal beaker for me about the O2A or Mk2 was the loss of deep bass. Do your mods bring it back?_

 

Plug the ports and you've got the same bass performance of the Mk1. That was the easy bit, the midrange "honk" was tougher to beat but can be done by bending the springs inside the pads.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 As a further problem, the source material to which an HRTF processing would be applied, unless is uses microphones placed at ear -type separations has already lost or screwed up critical inter-aural time differences which are important natural stimuli to auditory dierction perception. About the only reliable stereo cue or stimulus which commercial recordings retain is inter-aural amplitude differences. An after-the-fact technique would have nothin to use ot apply its processing tricks._

 

What you would do is emulate listening to either a stereo or a surround speaker system. In other cases, like computer games, complete spatial model of sound sources is available.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Absolutely we will - there is a good chance a self-assessed calibration technique is possible where no direct measurements are needed or ear model can be built up from photographs etc._

 

The technology may be available, but we're dealing with a music industry that can't be convinced to use slightly less dynamic range compression so that maybe the audio won't be clipping continuously on the original media.

 So i think it won't make much of an impact.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The technology may be available, but we're dealing with a music industry that can't be convinced to use slightly less dynamic range compression so that maybe the audio won't be clipping continuously on the original media.

 So i think it won't make much of an impact._

 

Indeed, but luckily music industry needn't be involved... The level of sophistication isn't really all that different from what's required to develop compression and there are many examples of successful internet collaborations with regular forum users doing testing etc.


----------



## ericj

you'll have to excuse me for not being overly excited about the prospect of 3d-ifying poorly recorded / poorly mastered music.


----------



## dvse

At least it won't make it any worse! I think a much more interesting application would be games.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What you would do is emulate listening to either a stereo or a surround speaker system. In other cases, like computer games, complete spatial model of sound sources is available._

 

"emulate listening," complete spatial model" What? This is evasive wording and hype. You are just talking about creating some synthetic spatial perception, not accurately recreating the original soundfield. Dolby headphone does this adequately for movies but I don't like it for music with headphones.

 I do use a Yamaha digital surround sound system for speakers. However its headphone hook-up is not very interesting.

 I think most people find good conventional music stereo to be so involving that it will be tough sell to get them to do much to it especially since 3-D systems always end up compromising some other aspect of sonic fidelity. Movies and games, ok, but there the emphasis is something other than music.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"emulate listening," complete spatial model" What? This is evasive wording and hype. You are just talking about creating some synthetic spatial perception, not accurately recreating the original soundfield. Dolby headphone does this adequately for movies but I don't like it for music with headphones.

 I do use a Yamaha digital surround sound system for speakers. However its headphone hook-up is not very interesting.

 I think most people find good conventional music stereo to be so involving that it will be tough sell to get them to do much to it especially since 3-D systems always end up compromising some other aspect of sonic fidelity. Movies and games, ok, but there the emphasis is something other than music._

 

I guess you missed the enthusiastic reports about the Smyth Virtual Surround system with head tracking that has been auditioned by experienced head-fi'ers at an U.S. head-fi meet lately.
 Failed attempts in the past (at least as stereo music is concerned) don't mean there is no way.
 I haven't yet the opportunity to audition the Smyth system but I did audition a somewhat similar system by EMT Studiotechnik GmbH last year at a german meet, and it was quite impressing and far better than simple crap like Dolby Headphone.The EMT systems is aimed at the studio market though and at ~$20000 too expensive for me.The Smyth system is way more affordable.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This should be easy to fix. The metal plate slides into place with the baffle out of the way and secures the cable. Lift up the four corners of the earpads and remove the screws. Pull the baffle out and align the metal plate and cable just like on the other earcup and push into place._

 

Thanks. Kinda odd how it doesn't really lock into place until the baffle is in place, but easy enough to sort out. 

 Looks like a previous owner tried to force it in without taking the baffle off and mangled the chunk that goes on the inside a bit - and scraped up the metal, but only in the area covered by the strain relief. Can't tell it's scratched when it's assembled. 

 Seems to work ok. If it becomes a problem I'll slather the inner bits with gray silicone RTV before the next reassembly, or something. 

 Better question though. On that same side the grille is dented in at the bottom and looks like it's touching the dust cover in an area of about a square centimeter. 

 Does not appear to affect sound at all. If the foam were intact i'd have never known it was there. But at some point it's going to drive me nuts strictly because it's not mechanically perfect. 

 So, it would be best if i knew how to safely remove the driver from the baffle before that day comes. Right now I'm envisioning sliding the edge of a thin, flat-edged blade under the side of the driver and gently levering it up, but i intend to get more knowledge on the subject before attacking it. 

 Sticking it back down isn't a problem - i have some high grade double-sided tape here that i can easily cut a new oval out of. Made in germany of nonwoven fabric and the stuff has a very good bond when the surfaces are properly prepped.


----------



## treebug

Hi folks. I'm new to electrostatic's (currently own the Grado GS1000's) and thinking about purchasing the SRM-007tII system. How important is a cd player with XLR balanced connections for use with the Stax? Any opinions on this system gratefully received!


----------



## naamanf

Not very IMHO. I switched back and forth between the SE and balanced inputs on the 007Ta when I was using it and couldn't hear a difference. Source was a Opus DAC.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Kinda odd how it doesn't really lock into place until the baffle is in place, but easy enough to sort out. 

 Looks like a previous owner tried to force it in without taking the baffle off and mangled the chunk that goes on the inside a bit - and scraped up the metal, but only in the area covered by the strain relief. Can't tell it's scratched when it's assembled. 

 Seems to work ok. If it becomes a problem I'll slather the inner bits with gray silicone RTV before the next reassembly, or something. 

 Better question though. On that same side the grille is dented in at the bottom and looks like it's touching the dust cover in an area of about a square centimeter. 

 Does not appear to affect sound at all. If the foam were intact i'd have never known it was there. But at some point it's going to drive me nuts strictly because it's not mechanically perfect. 

 So, it would be best if i knew how to safely remove the driver from the baffle before that day comes. Right now I'm envisioning sliding the edge of a thin, flat-edged blade under the side of the driver and gently levering it up, but i intend to get more knowledge on the subject before attacking it. 

 Sticking it back down isn't a problem - i have some high grade double-sided tape here that i can easily cut a new oval out of. Made in germany of nonwoven fabric and the stuff has a very good bond when the surfaces are properly prepped._

 

The stupidity of former owners knows no bounds... Where is that facepalm smiley when you need it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If you don't get a shock from the protection grill then I wouldn't worry about it. They are very often pushed in like that on the vintage phones and I've only had a problem once but the driver had other issues as well. If you choose to fix it then getting the driver off the baffle is only the beginning and not that hard to do with a razor blade. The grill is part of the driver structure which is all glued together so you would have to use a razor blade to split up the driver, fix the dent and clean up all glue residue and then glue it back together. That's excessive even for me but should you be crazy enough take great care with the stator connectors and use some urethane based glue as Stax originally did. It takes longer to cure but that will give you time to align the grill properly and coat the side of the driver with some glue. 

 If I were you then I'd just buy some new pads and forget about it...


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The stupidity of former owners knows no bounds... Where is that facepalm smiley when you need it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If you don't get a shock from the protection grill then I wouldn't worry about it. They are very often pushed in like that on the vintage phones and I've only had a problem once but the driver had other issues as well. If you choose to fix it then getting the driver off the baffle is only the beginning and not that hard to do with a razor blade. The grill is part of the driver structure which is all glued together so you would have to use a razor blade to split up the driver, fix the dent and clean up all glue residue and then glue it back together. That's excessive even for me but should you be crazy enough take great care with the stator connectors and use some urethane based glue as Stax originally did. It takes longer to cure but that will give you time to align the grill properly and coat the side of the driver with some glue. 

 If I were you then I'd just buy some new pads and forget about it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

In that case, I am probably better off using a teeny tiny crochet hook to pull the grille flat again. 

 Or, like you say, buying new pads and trying to forget about it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess you missed the enthusiastic reports about the Smyth Virtual Surround system with head tracking that has been auditioned by experienced head-fi'ers at an U.S. head-fi meet lately.
 Failed attempts in the past (at least as stereo music is concerned) don't mean there is no way.
 I haven't yet the opportunity to audition the Smyth system but I did audition a somewhat similar system by EMT Studiotechnik GmbH last year at a german meet, and it was quite impressing and far better than simple crap like Dolby Headphone.The EMT systems is aimed at the studio market though and at ~$20000 too expensive for me.The Smyth system is way more affordable._

 

No actually I have seen some reports of this. I am just not impressed by them. Tracking the head to get some marginally better surround sound strikes me as a solution in search of a problem.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In that case, I am probably better off using a teeny tiny crochet hook to pull the grille flat again. 

 Or, like you say, buying new pads and trying to forget about it._

 

A hook would work but don't pull on the grill too hard as it might break away. OCD is great to have but one has to stop somewhere...


----------



## derekbmn

So I emailed Jack Wu (Woo) yesterday in hopes of trying to pry a little more info about the new E-stat amp he has been working on. 

 I found out that this will be an all tube design (not hybrid like some were speculating including me) and it is a different design from the GES. That's all for now folks...


----------



## wizia

Hi guys, I just received my new SRS-3050 (wow these are pretty amazing) and was wondering how can I connect these to my computer. My currents are Sen HD555 and I just had to plug them into my XFi, but I have completely no idea how to make these work. I guess I'm missing something here. Any help?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys, I just received my new SRS-3050 (wow these are pretty amazing) and was wondering how can I connect these to my computer. My currents are Sen HD555 and I just had to plug them into my XFi, but I have completely no idea how to make these work. I guess I'm missing something here. Any help?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 No idea what the 'XFI' are, but guess its some sort of sound card. The SRM-323 have RCA signal inputs, so just feed it with a regular signal level. Or use the headphone out on the 'XFI' if it have one of those and no RCA.

 Or provide more information.


----------



## wizia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 No idea what the 'XFI' are, but guess its some sort of sound card. The SRM-323 have RCA signal inputs, so just feed it with a regular signal level. Or use the headphone out on the 'XFI' if it have one of those and no RCA.

 Or provide more information._

 

Yeah, by XFi i mean Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeMusic Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeMusic - Upgrade music to the Xtreme Fidelity audio standard I plug my HD555 (3.5mm jack) into it, but at the back of the SRS-323 I just see these http://www.av.com.pl/files/Image/AV%...II-gniazda.jpg which I really dont know what they are used to except the power thingy of course. Thanks, im gonna search some info about those RCA signal inputs (newbie :])


----------



## scompton

You'll need something like this RAM Electronics - Audio video Home theater and Computer cables - HDMI DVI HDTV Componant switcher USB firewire 1394 ilink cat5 network fiber optic SCSI hub switch serial parallel accessories cable switches converters capture adapters ram electronics .

 You plug it in where you plug the headphone in since the XFi doesn't have a separate line out. Set the computer's volume to full volume and control the volume with the Stax amp.

 The problem you'll have is that if you want to listen to the HD555, you'll have to unplug the Stax amp to plug in the headphones. Probably not much of problem since you'll probably never listen to the HD555 again


----------



## wizia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You'll need something like this RAM Electronics - Audio video Home theater and Computer cables - HDMI DVI HDTV Componant switcher USB firewire 1394 ilink cat5 network fiber optic SCSI hub switch serial parallel accessories cable switches converters capture adapters ram electronics .

 You plug it in where you plug the headphone in since the XFi doesn't have a separate line out. Set the computer's volume to full volume and control the volume with the Stax amp.

 The problem you'll have is that if you want to listen to the HD555, you'll have to unplug the Stax amp to plug in the headphones. Probably not much of problem since you'll probably never listen to the HD555 again
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 









 thanks gonna check it out


----------



## Johnny Blue

Surely any Stax system running off a mini-jack (3.5mm or 1/8th jack) needs, at the very least, this!


----------



## wizia

Thanks Johnny Blue.

 About the 3.5 to RCA, i will connect this here (pic), right?








 And what's the *?* ?


----------



## wizia

Forgot a question, would a simple transformer do the work or do I need a special one? 

 I do not mind spending money (reasonably) on these kind of things as long as it sounds better.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Johnny Blue.

 About the 3.5 to RCA, i will connect this here (pic), right?








 And what's the *?* ?_

 

The ? is a ground lug. Generally no need to use it. Yes that is where you would connect the RCAs to.


----------



## wizia

Thanks. Really helpful people on this forum


----------



## Johnny Blue

I'm still amazed that someone can buy a Stax system and never have come across RCA (phono) plugs and sockets before!

 Also, don't use a transformer: they degrade the sound quality which you've just paid good money to get! Search this thread for info on re-wiring the amp so you can use your normal voltage supply (although, on second thoughts, if you've never seen a phono socket before, perhaps leaping around with a soldering iron ain't a good idea... ).


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, don't use a transformer: they degrade the sound quality which you've just paid good money to get! Search this thread for info on re-wiring the amp so you can use your normal voltage supply (although, on second thoughts, if you've never seen a phono socket before, perhaps leaping around with a soldering iron ain't a good idea... )._

 

Whoa. Hold on there. 

 I think when the OP said "transformer" he meant adapter - the stereo-mini to RCA adapter. 

 If he meant an audio coupling transformer, that might degrade the sound slightly. 

 You seem to mean a power transformer to adapt a foreign market amp to the locain mains voltage. This would NOT degrade the sound. At least, an actual, you know, magnetic transformer would not. Dunno about those tiny voltage converters that lack an actual transformer, though iirc spritzer seems to say they work fine.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely any Stax system running off a mini-jack (3.5mm or 1/8th jack) needs, at the very least, this!_

 

... or a Moon Audio Silver Dragon mini-to-RCA adapter ... 

Moon Audio


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still amazed that someone can buy a Stax system and never have come across RCA (phono) plugs and sockets before!_

 

I'm guessing it was confusion caused by the _two_ pairs of RCA jacks, not the RCA jacks themselves.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Yes, you can use either set of RCA jacks as an input, the other set you can use as a "tape loop" to send the audio signal to another device such as an integrated amp for your speakers. 

 The only other thing I've seen with a ground lug is a record player but that was years ago. I think it's suppose to give a common ground to multiple devices. I've never had to use one. 

 Check the definition of transformer: Transformer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 I wouln't spend big money on a 1/8" stereo to RCA stereo cable or adapter; almost any brand cable will do.

 You might want to try using an external DAC with your X-fi. I found the analog output from the X-fi to be noisy and unrefined compared to all of the DACs I've tried.


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still amazed that someone can buy a Stax system and never have come across RCA (phono) plugs and sockets before!

 Also, don't use a transformer: they degrade the sound quality which you've just paid good money to get! Search this thread for info on re-wiring the amp so you can use your normal voltage supply (although, on second thoughts, if you've never seen a phono socket before, perhaps leaping around with a soldering iron ain't a good idea... )._

 


 Hey Johnny blue were you the one who bought a T2? So what up with it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You seem to mean a power transformer to adapt a foreign market amp to the locain mains voltage. This would NOT degrade the sound. At least, an actual, you know, magnetic transformer would not. Dunno about those tiny voltage converters that lack an actual transformer, though iirc spritzer seems to say they work fine._

 

The ones I use are great old hunks of iron (my 100v unit is about 10kg and has taps for every 5v increment so that the output voltage can be precisely adjusted) and don't really degrade the sound when fitted with some decent sockets and wiring. Transformers can in fact be beneficial by blocking out all of the crap present on the AC lines i.e. isolation transformers. Most of the cheap ones are just crap though.


----------



## treebug

Is there a big advantage in paying the extra for the SRM-007tII system when compared to the 4040 system?


----------



## wizia

Already got the Qunex. I just need a transformer to use the amp, it is 100W and in my country we use 220W, I have already got one but I do not know if I need something special (high quality).


----------



## Faust2D

I was listening to my LNS with SRM-1Mk2 Pro and I really like this Lambda variation. I have SRM-T1S coming in few days (hopefully). As far as I know LNS was matched with T1S and/or T1W when Stax sold them as a system, so hopfully LNS would sound it even better with T1S. 

 If you have LNS and tried it with different amps, please tell me what amp was a good match for LNS.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was listening to my LNS with SRM-1Mk2 Pro and I really like this Lambda variation. I have SRM-T1S coming in few days (hopefully). As far as I know LNS was matched with T1S and/or T1W when Stax sold them as a system, so hopfully LNS would sound it even better with T1S. 

 If you have LNS and tried it with different amps, please tell me what amp was a good match for LNS._

 

It was matched with the T1S and T1W when they cam eout, if I recall from the Stereophile review a ways back.

 I know the Lambda Signature (no Nova) sound very good with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, the Woo GES Prototype, and a Nuforce Icon driving the SRD-7 Pro, and they're not even bad from the HEV70 either. I even liked them with Elephas's multi-thousands dollar ES-1 at the Colorado Meet in July.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was listening to my LNS with SRM-1Mk2 Pro and I really like this Lambda variation. I have SRM-T1S coming in few days (hopefully). As far as I know LNS was matched with T1S and/or T1W when Stax sold them as a system, so hopfully LNS would sound it even better with T1S. 

 If you have LNS and tried it with different amps, please tell me what amp was a good match for LNS._

 

I bought the SRM-T1S/LNS combo last week and have tried it also with my
 717 and 523 amps. To me the LNS sounds best with the SS amps - better grip at the lower octaves. My 404 on the other hand benefits a lot from the more relaxed highs when coupled with the SRM-1TS.

 The cheapest way to get close to the 007 sound would be an LNS driven by a 523.

 cheers

 Tom

 PS. The 523 is more refined than the SRM-1Mk2 Pro, so perhaps the SRM-1TS/LNS is better in this case.


----------



## marcus1

I`m in Japan at the moment and am thinking about buying the Stax 3050A system as they are alot cheaper here than where I`m from. 
 I`m also　contemplating really emptying the wallet and getting a set of dynamic phones to go with them so would anyone care to comment on which of these phones might complement the Stax system best:

 ATH AD-2000
 ATH AD-900 
 or
 Denon D-2000

 Unfortunately I have only had the chance to listen (briefly) to the Stax and not the dynamics listed above. I found the Stax great for classical and female vocals but maybe a bit to refined for　rock etc although as I said it wasn`t much of an audition and I really didn`t have the time to try them with a resonable range of music. 
 Any thoughts on the above dynamics to go with the Stax? Maybe some of you have (or heard) the Stax and one or more of the dynamics?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any thoughts on the above dynamics to go with the Stax? Maybe some of you have (or heard) the Stax and one or more of the dynamics?_

 

If you want something for rock music, Stax SR-X Mk3 should be quite pleasant, out of dynamics I've heard Grado HP-2 is somewhat similar. If you want to go with second hand SR-X, also look for an amp with normal bias. Cheap ATs don't really do anything better than 3050.


----------



## wizia

Already got these working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is it common that the volume is high but not THAT high? I mean, I'm using them at 6.5/10 but I tought the amp would make the volume much more high. 

 About my X-Fi XtremeMusic, is it good enough or should I get something better? What would a DAC do?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Already got these working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is it common that the volume is high but not THAT high? I mean, I'm using them at 6.5/10 but I tought the amp would make the volume much more high. 

 About my X-Fi XtremeMusic, is it good enough or should I get something better? What would a DAC do?_

 


 Not to be mean, but this is about as far from 'discussion of high-end audio' as it gets.


----------



## wizia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to be mean, but this is about as far from 'discussion of high-end audio' as it gets._

 

Yeah I know I am a newbie. Thanks anyway


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About my X-Fi XtremeMusic, is it good enough or should I get something better? What would a DAC do?_

 

Most stax-o-philes tend to shy away from anything labeled as _Xtreme_ but it's hard to say. 

 Obviously better sources are better because they sound better, but most of us don't know how your sound card compares to higher end gear.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to be mean, but this is about as far from 'discussion of high-end audio' as it gets._

 

If he's driving his Stax from his sound card, where else would he post? This is the Stax thread even if it is in the High End forum. Where is the cut off of what Stax related topics can and can't be discussed in this thread?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Already got these working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is it common that the volume is high but not THAT high? I mean, I'm using them at 6.5/10 but I tought the amp would make the volume much more high. 

 About my X-Fi XtremeMusic, is it good enough or should I get something better? What would a DAC do?_

 

Is the PC's volume set at it's maximum? If so, the line out from your sound card is probably not very strong.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If he's driving his Stax from his sound card, where else would he post? This is the Stax thread even if it is in the High End forum. Where is the cut off of what Stax related topics can and can't be discussed in this thread?_

 

"What is an RCA connector?" "Why doesn't an amp make things go loud" and "What would a DAC do" have absolutely nothing to do with Stax, even if poster happens to have a Stax system.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought the SRM-T1S/LNS combo last week and have tried it also with my
 717 and 523 amps. To me the LNS sounds best with the SS amps - better grip at the lower octaves. My 404 on the other hand benefits a lot from the more relaxed highs when coupled with the SRM-1TS.

 The cheapest way to get close to the 007 sound would be an LNS driven by a 523.

 cheers

 Tom

 PS. The 523 is more refined than the SRM-1Mk2 Pro, so perhaps the SRM-1TS/LNS is better in this case._

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I heard SRM-323 with SR-404 and SR-303 and I liked SR-303 better with SRM-1. 

 As I disliked SRM-323 (not sure what 523 is) and other new solid-state Stax amps in general, I figure we are looking for different things in amps. To me 323 sounds cold and lifeless. I found SRM-1Mk2 to be much better than new Stax amps, excluding 717, which was very nice.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want something for rock music, Stax SR-X Mk3 should be quite pleasant, out of dynamics I've heard Grado HP-2 is somewhat similar. If you want to go with second hand SR-X, also look for an amp with normal bias. Cheap ATs don't really do anything better than 3050._

 

SR-X sucks for rock, as far as I am concerned. SR-X are ruthless and analytical headphones, not for generally not so good recorded rock music. If you want to listen how badly your favorite rock album was recorded and you are a masochist than maybe it would be fine.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wizia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah I know I am a newbie. Thanks anyway_

 

Have you tried turning up the volume in the "sound mixer" on your PC? If your source is too quiet the amp will be too.

 Double click on the volume icon is the system tray or task tray (whatever it's called these day, I'm a mac guy), and check all the volume levels for various things like CD, WAV, Volume, etc.

 Also, you may want to consider a half-way decent USB DAC. They come as cheap as $40 for a nice sounding Headphonia.com USB DAC Cable (but you'll need a female-female 3.5mm adpater), to $60-70 for a hotaudio USB DAC from eBay, to $115 for a SuperPro DAC707 at diykits, to a D2 Boa for $170 shipped at iBasso, or a Headroom Micro DAC for $399 at HeadRoom - Right Between Your Ears which would be my choice on a budget, or even better a Stello DA100 for $695 from :: Headphone/Preamp & USB-DAC :: HiFi500 :: info@hifi500.com ::

 I have heard them all but the hotaudio one.


----------



## ericj

There's nothing wrong with running a stax amp off a sound card. It might even be a good sound card - I just have no idea. Maybe google to see if anyone has posted RMAA graphs for the thing. 

 My SR-X III plugs into an SRD-7 that's hooked up to a Rotel RA-820BX that's hooked up to a computer with a Chaintech AV-710, among other sources. 

 Agreed on the loudness thing - adjust the mixer on the computer. Be careful with it though, some sound cards will gladly let you increase the mixer volume well into clipping. My old thinkpad would clip if the "wave audio" mixer element was above about 75%. Stupid, but it happens. 

 So, increase the volume in the mixer until you either see flat tops on the wave form in a spectrum analyzer program, or until you start to hear degradation.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I`m in Japan at the moment and am thinking about buying the Stax 3050A system as they are alot cheaper here than where I`m from. 
 I`m also　contemplating really emptying the wallet and getting a set of dynamic phones to go with them so would anyone care to comment on which of these phones might complement the Stax system best:

 ATH AD-2000
 ATH AD-900 
 or
 Denon D-2000

 Unfortunately I have only had the chance to listen (briefly) to the Stax and not the dynamics listed above. I found the Stax great for classical and female vocals but maybe a bit to refined for　rock etc although as I said it wasn`t much of an audition and I really didn`t have the time to try them with a resonable range of music. 
 Any thoughts on the above dynamics to go with the Stax? Maybe some of you have (or heard) the Stax and one or more of the dynamics?_

 

I would get the D2000 to go with the Stax - they are good for rock (and jazz, classical, acoustic, electronic, etc), and scale well with upgraded source and amp and cable. They take about 300-400 hours to fully burn-in and get faster, and are also very responsive to mods (search for markl mods). 

 I have the D2000 with APS V2 cable, and I think the Stax and the D2000 could cover most genre of music for you, and gives you the options of open and closed, for when you need to have headphones that leak less sound in the middle of the night while the wife is asleep.

 The person recommending the SR-X was thinking of one phone to rule them all, on a budget - i.e. I think they are better for rock than the 3050A too, but they are still pretty detailed and refined as "monitor" headphones. The SR-5NB gold edition might be a better vintage Stax as an all rounder, but they are like a Grado RS-1 or RS-2 and more forward and less suitable for classical than rock.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have LNS and tried it with different amps, please tell me what amp was a good match for LNS._

 

Blue Hawaii... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The T1's are a great match for the Lambda series and the ESP/950 is also very nice with a bit of tube magic. Get some Toshiba tubes for it though...


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Johnny blue were you the one who bought a T2? So what up with it?_

 

Not me, mate, I can't be doing with all those things that glow in the dark...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for sharing your experience. I heard SRM-323 with SR-404 and SR-303 and I liked SR-303 better with SRM-1. 

 As I disliked SRM-323 (not sure what 523 is) and other new solid-state Stax amps in general, I figure we are looking for different things in amps. To me 323 sounds cold and lifeless. I found SRM-1Mk2 to be much better than new Stax amps, excluding 717, which was very nice._

 

Sorry about the misnomer - I meant the 323 of course. I also prefer the 404, which i think is hard to distinguish from the 303, with a tube amp.

 As for "cold and lifeless" - well I suppose thats a question of preference. I find it very characterless leaving it to the source to bring life into the performance.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## AudioPhewl

I bought my SRS-4040II Signature rig last week[SR404 / SRM-006tII]. Should be with me this coming Saturday.

 Can I come and play in your "high end" forum? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ~Phewl


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X sucks for rock, as far as I am concerned. SR-X are ruthless and analytical headphones, not for generally not so good recorded rock music. If you want to listen how badly your favorite rock album was recorded and you are a masochist than maybe it would be fine._

 

I agree! IMO the best stat phones for rock are the Koss ESP-950 and Stax O2.
 The SR-003 aren’t bad either.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X sucks for rock, as far as I am concerned. SR-X are ruthless and analytical headphones, not for generally not so good recorded rock music. If you want to listen how badly your favorite rock album was recorded and you are a masochist than maybe it would be fine._

 

THe SRXIII magnifies the detail of almost everything except the extreme bass, where it is deficient. In that sense it is good monitor phone. I have a love-hate relationship with them, but listen with them on occasion to get a different audio perspective on a recording.


----------



## Faust2D

SR-X III sounded their best to me with very well recorded acoustic music. I had them for about a month. To be perfectly honest I disliked them and mine had old pads with vinyl peeled off.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_THe SRXIII magnifies the detail of almost everything except the extreme bass, where it is deficient. In that sense it is good monitor phone. I have a love-hate relationship with them, but listen with them on occasion to get a different audio perspective on a recording._

 

Perfect description of the SRXIII. It was great with the SRM-1 but not so good with the T1S.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perfect description of the SRXIII. It was great with the SRM-001 but not so good with the T1S._

 

I would just call it SRM-1 (with or without the Mk2 or Pro added on) because some people will think you are talking about the SR-001 which is portable if you don't make it clear.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just call it SRM-1 (with or without the Mk2 or Pro added on) because some people will think you are talking about the SR-001 which is portable if you don't make it clear._

 

Done, thanks.


----------



## dvse

The reason i think SR-X Mk3 is good for rock is a certain sense of immediacy you get from the supra-aural design. Any faults in the recording, while noticeable, don't sound particularly grating either. 

 I actually have a pair of SR-X Mk2 and they are even more musical (if less detailed) than their successor, but these are pretty much pointless to recommend because they are too rare.

 The main difference between the two is that Mk2 used drivers similar to those in SR-3, while Mk3 has drivers similar (or identical) to SR-3N (actually SR-5, see spritzer's post below) .


----------



## bralk

Would these be an improvement over stock GE tubes in an SRM-T1S ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## yale.reinstein

Seems like you all have access to SRM-T1s. I don't know if I want to upgrade any time soon, but is there anything readily available that is comparable for 600-1000 American? I also have a certain desire for an amp without many nicks or scratches if I'm spending that much. In this respect I'd always hesitate if I found something on the F/S that is anything less than the description of the amp Faust2D recently picked up. I guess beggars can't be choosers...

 Also, it's amazing how much more musical the Lambda Pro is than the SR-202. I hope it isn't like that further up the line... Is it okay to keep my de-foamed Pros lying around without any dust protection?


----------



## Kalle_dk

I've tried to read this thread and other Stax threads, but I can't find the answer to my question, which is this.....

 Has anyone tried the Omega 007 II earspeakers with the 006tII energizer ? Will this work, or is the "amp" to weak to make the Omegas play well ?


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kalle_dk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the Omega 007 II earspeakers with the 006tII energizer ? Will this work, or is the "amp" to weak to make the Omegas play well ?_

 

Both. It will work, but you will not get maximum performance out of the OII. That doesn't mean that the OII will sound bad, but you'll need a better amp to maximize performance.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X sucks for rock, as far as I am concerned. SR-X are ruthless and analytical headphones, not for generally not so good recorded rock music. If you want to listen how badly your favorite rock album was recorded and you are a masochist than maybe it would be fine._

 

The above quote brings back old memories. I used to own the stax ESL F81X floor speakers. When it comes to clarity they are perfect, but when it comes to rock, they would choke. But when I added a subwolfer to the system, the bass jumped out but the music just went "haywiring".


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The main difference between the two is that Mk2 used drivers similar to those in SR-3, while Mk3 has drivers similar (or identical) to SR-3N._

 

The SR-X Mk3 uses SR-5 drivers with a 2um diaphragm. The Mk2 uses a driver based on the SR-3 but I can't remember what diaphragm it used... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kalle_dk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the Omega 007 II earspeakers with the 006tII energizer ? Will this work, or is the "amp" to weak to make the Omegas play well ?_

 

Ditto on what Hirsch said but are you talking about the Mk1 or Mk2 SR-007? The newer model is slightly more alive sounding on the lesser amps due to its more forward nature but still needs all the same amount of power to shine.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, it's amazing how much more musical the Lambda Pro is than the SR-202. I hope it isn't like that further up the line... Is it okay to keep my de-foamed Pros lying around without any dust protection?_

 

There is a dust protection membrane as part of the driver so this is no big deal.. but if you don't want hairs etc. getting inside the earcup, you can glue some nylon or gauze to the underside of the pad.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

These Koss ESP950 with Stax PC-OCC cable, played through a Woo GES (prototype) are pretty darn impressive. Can't stop listening. Birgir, you were a fool to sell them to me (unless you have a spare for yourself).


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These Koss ESP950 with Stax PC-OCC cable, played through a Woo GES (prototype) are pretty darn impressive. Can't stop listening. Birgir, you were a fool to sell them to me (unless you have a spare for yourself). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Not if they sound worse after re-cabling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Birgir, now a serious question: how much difference was there after re-cabling. I am considering the ESP-950 and the necessity of re-cabling is something to weight in before the decision.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These Koss ESP950 with Stax PC-OCC cable, played through a Woo GES (prototype) are pretty darn impressive. Can't stop listening. Birgir, you were a fool to sell them to me (unless you have a spare for yourself). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ever heard an Omega? If so that's your answer and that I have four different ones to choose from... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is a brilliant headphone though and I will buy another set sooner or later but as it stands now I just never used them and I still have way too many headphones. The one I'll buy will be turned into an HE90 clone though with the same housing design and HE90 earpads. The drivers are that good...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not if they sound worse after re-cabling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Birgir, now a serious question: how much difference was there after re-cabling. I am considering the ESP-950 and the necessity of re-cabling is something to weight in before the decision._

 

I bought them recabled so I have no means of comparing them directly. I have however used the Koss cable for years to recable and other projects and in a direct comparison on a SR-X Pro the PC-OCC cables have more detail but the difference isn't huge. Removing some of the damping layers will have a much larger impact on the sound which is what APS does as well.


----------



## Anders

I will try to wait for the ESP950 - HE90 hybrid, if someone will manufacture it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will try to wait for the ESP950 - HE90 hybrid, if someone will manufacture it._

 

It will not be manufactured by anybody, just a single one made by me. Lets just say that having owned almost every production headphone out there opens up a need to come up with crazy new designs...


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will not be manufactured by anybody, just a single one made by me. Lets just say that having owned almost every production headphone out there opens up a need to come up with crazy new designs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Dr Frankenstein - could you post a picture?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dr Frankenstein - could you post a picture?_

 

I haven't started so no...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will not be manufactured by anybody, just a single one made by me. Lets just say that having owned almost every production headphone out there opens up a need to come up with crazy new designs... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great to hear this. Now if someone could make a better Sigma housing.


----------



## AudioPhewl

Well, my 4040 rig was delivered today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'm curious - what valves/tubes do people recommend for the SRM-006tII? I'm loving things at the moment, but if there are better components readily available... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do they simply pull out and push in, or is it more complicated than that?

 Would I have to adjust the bias or anything if I replaced them? Is this difficult to do?

 Apologies for all the dumbass questions, I'm not familiar with all this valve lark 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 ~Phewl.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to hear this. Now if someone could make a better Sigma housing._

 

I second this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 We need Über-Sigma


----------



## Anders

Hi AudioPhewl, congratulation for you new rig. I am not sure about the 006t, especially not tII. I think it is similar to 007t and there you have to bias the tubes manually. If you make a search on Head-Fi (with words like bias, 007t, 006t) you will find instuctions at least for the previous models and evaluations of tubes. If it is the same procedure as before, you need a multimeter to measure the voltages when biasing.

 I read a German review of 006tII and then it had Electro-Harmonix tubes. I don't know if Stax always install these tubes. Not all like them, I think they are good but a little too bright in the 007t. Could sound different in the new models.


----------



## AudioPhewl

Thanks, Anders. Yes, it does have the Electro-Harmonix tubes inside. I've got a multimeter, I'll do some searching 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 ETA - have done some searching, and adjusting the bias sounds easy enough.

 What tubes should I be looking for? Are there any resources available stating the different characteristics of different tubes?

 Thanks,

 ~Phewl.


----------



## treebug

About to purchase the Stax 007 system. My dealer is urging me to go for the Kimik upgrade. Is it worth the extra money?


----------



## bralk

Ask him for a demo and decide for yourself

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## scompton

I need to get some wire to rewire my K-Mart stats. What's the minimum wire I need for normal bias stats? Also does anyone know the pinout of normal bias Stax? I figure I might as well rewire them to use with Stax transformers.


----------



## spritzer

Here is the SRD-7 Mk2 schematic with pinout. The top pins are plus but it doesn't really matter all that much. Check the bias supply in the K-mart phones for any extra resistors as the OEM models often used much larger bleed resistors which will make them work badly with Stax phones. You can always remove the large resistors and put some 5meg units in their place and make up the extra with some resistors in the cups of the K-mart. 300v wire is enough for the normal bias units.


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have pestered Spritzer by email between yesterday and today on a pair of SR-3N I recently got from a fellow member. They have a serious imbalance on the right channel, which (mostly) comes and (seldom) goes. Among the different possible causes suggested by Spritzer, the most likely one seems to be



 So tonight I opened up the right earcup (click on the pics for high res images)





 unscrewed the blue wire and cleaned the contact (risking to lose the microscopic pin that actually makes the contact, I knew it was there only after it pinged on the table surface)





 Any difference? No, if anything the situation is worse as now they seem to be pemanently imbalanced.

 So, a couple of questions for the gurus.

 Can I check the bias with a multimeter to at least make sure it's not a problem in the cable? And how would I go about that, what goes were and what should be the reading?

 How else can I try to clean the contact, and/or what can I check apart from that?_

 

Ok guys, Ludo fixed this headphone by adjusting one connection inside the right earcup, and now it works. I was so curious to hear the headphone that he is lending it to me for a few days.
 The headphone doesn't have any imbalances to my ears, using my amp.
 I compared thoroughly the SR-3unknown (as we can't figure what drivers it uses, so for me it's now a SR-3u 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) and the SR-003, using a SRM-1 MkII Pro with both its outs (normal bias and pro bias outs).
 The two are pretty similar, but the SR-3u are darker than the SR-003. The SR-3u show a wider recession in the upper mids, which attenuates cymbals, sibilance and metallic details more than the SR-003 (which is already recessed at 8kHz). Vocals (especially female vocals) are meatier using the SR-3u, and lack some air compared to the SR-003. Soundstage is pretty similar with both, the SR-3u are more comfortable but, like every SR-3, with hot weather they made me sweat.
 Vocals are more forward with the SR-003, due to them being less recessed in the upper mids. Both have some warmth in the lower mids, but with the SR-3u vocals sound farther from the listener (volume wise, not space-wise).
 It's hard to evaluate speed differences, but being more revealing in the upper mids, the SR-003 sound more airy and detailed.
 I preferred the SR-003 for sound, while the SR-3u are more comfortable and can certainly please people who like bass and are a bargain under 100€. They remind me of the Shure E50, but it has been to long since last time I listened to the Shures. Due to my sound preferences, anyway, I consider the SR-003 more balanced while not neutral in absolute terms (for example compared to the SR-X MkIII Pro).


----------



## cosmopragma

I've seen custom amps amps with jacks for HE60s.
 Where do you get such jacks?
 I've heard you can't get them from Sennheiser nor butcher the HEV70 since the connector is not separate but the pins are directly soldered onto the PCB.
 Meh.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok guys, Ludo fixed this headphone by adjusting one connection inside the right earcup, and now it works. I was so curious to hear the headphone that he is lending it to me for a few days.
 The headphone doesn't have any imbalances to my ears, using my amp.
 I compared thoroughly the SR-3unknown (as we can't figure what drivers it uses, so for me it's now a SR-3u 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) and the SR-003, using a SRM-1 MkII Pro with both its outs (normal bias and pro bias outs).
 The two are pretty similar, but the SR-3u are darker than the SR-003. The SR-3u show a wider recession in the upper mids, which attenuates cymbals, sibilance and metallic details more than the SR-003 (which is already recessed at 8kHz). Vocals (especially female vocals) are meatier using the SR-3u, and lack some air compared to the SR-003. Soundstage is pretty similar with both, the SR-3u are more comfortable but, like every SR-3, with hot weather they made me sweat.
 Vocals are more forward with the SR-003, due to them being less recessed in the upper mids. Both have some warmth in the lower mids, but with the SR-3u vocals sound farther from the listener (volume wise, not space-wise).
 It's hard to evaluate speed differences, but being more revealing in the upper mids, the SR-003 sound more airy and detailed.
 I preferred the SR-003 for sound, while the SR-3u are more comfortable and can certainly please people who like bass and are a bargain under 100€. They remind me of the Shure E50, but it has been to long since last time I listened to the Shures. Due to my sound preferences, anyway, I consider the SR-003 more balanced while not neutral in absolute terms (for example compared to the SR-X MkIII Pro)._

 

That is very much what I heard with the SR-3 I bought from Spritzer a while back when compared to my SR-003 (using SRM-1 Mk2 Pro). I agree with you completely.

 My SR-5NB are much closer to my SR-003 (with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro), being more airy and sparkly than the SR-3, while I felt the SR-3 were closer to my stock SR-001 Mk2.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-X Mk3 uses SR-5 drivers with a 2um diaphragm. The Mk2 uses a driver based on the SR-3 but I can't remember what diaphragm it used... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Ditto on what Hirsch said but are you talking about the Mk1 or Mk2 SR-007? The newer model is slightly more alive sounding on the lesser amps due to its more forward nature but still needs all the same amount of power to shine._

 

Spritzer, I'm bored w/ my 3050ii. Do I get the Omega II w/ the 007tii or the 727ii?

 TIA,

 -Tim


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *twestby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I'm bored w/ my 3050ii. Do I get the Omega II w/ the 007tii or the 727ii?_

 

I would look for a used 717. Search this thread for the many many comments on these models driving the O2.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok guys, Ludo fixed this headphone by adjusting one connection inside the right earcup, and now it works. I was so curious to hear the headphone that he is lending it to me for a few days.
 The headphone doesn't have any imbalances to my ears, using my amp._

 

I've been reluctant to talk about it, because it seems so unfair, but the channel imbalance in the SR-5 I got from Spritzer seems to have disappeared under similar circumstances.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would look for a used 717. Search this thread for the many many comments on these models driving the O2._

 

I see few positive reports about the Stax tube amps, but more support for their transistor offerings. Certainly I am finding my 717 sounds great with the 007A. But these phones are not that bad with lesser amps, such as my SRm3's which only have 300 volt swing. 

 Still I think power and volt swing are issues and possibly twestby should get the phones first and see how he likes them with his current 323II amp. With a 400 volt swing it is close to the 717's 450 volt swing. 

 The best Stax tube amp , the 007tII, only gives a 340 volt swing.


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been reluctant to talk about it, because it seems so unfair, but the channel imbalance in the SR-5 I got from Spritzer seems to have disappeared under similar circumstances._

 

Damn clockwork phones.


----------



## wsoxfan

I am seriously thinking about upgrading my Stax outfit.
 First I want to see if I can get a reasonable price on my current outfit:
 Lambda Pros with SRM-313 amp.
 Both the phones and the amp sound great and are in excellent shape.
 Anyone interested please PM me or reply.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would look for a used 717. Search this thread for the many many comments on these models driving the O2._

 

Ditto. I'm using one now and it will tide me over until I get the BHSE or finish my own BH. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been reluctant to talk about it, because it seems so unfair, but the channel imbalance in the SR-5 I got from Spritzer seems to have disappeared under similar circumstances._

 

person... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad to hear they jumped back to life. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see few positive reports about the Stax tube amps, but more support for their transistor offerings. Certainly I am finding my 717 sounds great with the 007A. But these phones are not that bad with lesser amps, such as my SRm3's which only have 300 volt swing. 

 Still I think power and volt swing are issues and possibly twestby should get the phones first and see how he likes them with his current 323II amp. With a 400 volt swing it is close to the 717's 450 volt swing. 

 The best Stax tube amp , the 007tII, only gives a 340 volt swing._

 

Voltage swing is only a part of the equation. You need current when the impedance drops and that's where the 717 comes out on top. Just look at how much power they draw from the wall and where all of it is going. The Stax tube amps were also never designed to drive the kind of load that a SR-007 presents and simply doubling up in the output stage on the 007t isn't going to transform the basic T1 design. Add that to the 6CG7's being fundamentally the wrong tube for the job and we prefer the 717...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still I think power and volt swing are issues and possibly twestby should get the phones first and see how he likes them with his current 323II amp. With a 400 volt swing it is close to the 717's 450 volt swing._

 

The 323 is not half bad with the 007. (thanks spritzer!) At low to medium listening levels it´s hard to tell the difference from the 717.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see few positive reports about the Stax tube amps, but more support for their transistor offerings._

 

When driving the 404 or LNS my SRM-T1S has enough juice with its 300v
 swing. And especially the 404 really benefits from a bit of tube softening at the higher frequencies.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## twestby

Thanks to spritzer and all for taking the time - much appreciated. Plan is to try to get by with the 323II whilst searching for a used 717. -Tim


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 When driving the 404 or LNS my SRM-T1S has enough juice with its 300v
 swing. And especially the 404 really benefits from a bit of tube softening at the higher frequencies.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Yes, a very good combo.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been reluctant to talk about it, because it seems so unfair, but the channel imbalance in the SR-5 I got from Spritzer seems to have disappeared under similar circumstances._

 

Eric

 Can you explain what you did to get rid of the channel imbalance? I've been following this thread religiously over the years, and fear something crucial must have passed me by on this one: I thought that the original attempt at repairing the SR-3's imbalance did NOT work (despite the great pictures posted during the process!).

 I've got some SR-X Mk3s with serious imbalance: they deteriorated rapidly after purchase, not helped by my trying them on what I subsequently discovered was a modified SRM-1 Mk2, where the low bias connection had been replaced by a high bias one (now returned to its original condition thanks to help from Spritzer -- see the original Stax thread for details)!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eric

 Can you explain what you did to get rid of the channel imbalance? I've been following this thread religiously over the years, and fear something crucial must have passed me by on this one: I thought that the original attempt at repairing the SR-3's imbalance did NOT work (despite the great pictures posted during the process!).

 I've got some SR-X Mk3s with serious imbalance: they deteriorated rapidly after purchase, not helped by my trying them on what I subsequently discovered was a modified SRM-1 Mk2, where the low bias connection had been replaced by a high bias one (now returned to its original condition thanks to help from Spritzer -- see the original Stax thread for details)!_

 

I'm sorry, all i did was fiddle with the lugs where the wires connect. I didn't expect it to make a difference, but apparently it did. 

 There are surely multiple causes of channel imbalance. Dirty or loose contacts seems to be one of them. Your problem could be something else. 

 As an aside, since I'm trying to turn a set of transformers from an E./9 into a Stax energizer, I'm trying to mimic the SRD-7 or SRD-7 MkII bias circuits. 

 Can anyone here confirm or disconfirm that the 1N6295C aka 1.5KE100C currently available from Littlefuse, Fagor, etc, are a reasonable equivalent of the long-discontinued Z1100 part in the MkII schematic? (or in the case of the original schematic, 1N6293C aka 1.5KE82C for Z1082).

 Also pondering the possibility of converting an SRD-7 to an SRD-7 MkII for some day when i have a pro-bias earspeaker.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry, all i did was fiddle with the lugs where the wires connect. I didn't expect it to make a difference, but apparently it did. 

 There are surely multiple causes of channel imbalance. Dirty or loose contacts seems to be one of them. Your problem could be something else._

 

You got lucky! (I'll try this on mine, just in case!)


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also pondering the possibility of converting an SRD-7 to an SRD-7 MkII for some day when i have a pro-bias earspeaker._

 

Aah, Eric! There have been so many false dawns on this idea: search the Stax threads and you'll find there have been loads of people asking for information on how to do this, but so far nothing has actually come of it (at least, not for dimwits like me, who can tell one end of a soldering iron from another, but can only do a task such as this when given very explicit, painting-by-numbers, instructions!).


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You got lucky! (I'll try this on mine, just in case!)_

 

Especially considering what i paid for it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* 
_Aah, Eric! There have been so many false dawns on this idea: search the Stax threads and you'll find there have been loads of people asking for information on how to do this, but so far nothing has actually come of it (at least, not for dimwits like me, who can tell one end of a soldering iron from another, but can only do a task such as this when given very explicit, painting-by-numbers, instructions!)._

 

Well, what I'm proposing to do is replace the bias circuit board with a new one, using few or none of the original bias components. 

 We could describe in simple terms how one might increase the bias voltage on the existing board by air-wiring some diodes and capacitors, but, we won't, because someone will set their house on fire. 

 One of the major hurdles to building an all-new stax-style bias circuit (rather than some other bias circuit) is that some of the parts used in the original circuit haven't been available for 10 or 20 years. I think i've found equivalents of the TVS part that regulates the voltage at the first stage, which is one hurdle potentially cleared. 

 The SRD-7 MkII circuit is desirable for three reasons: 

 1: Unlike most bias circuits, no mains power transformer is needed. 

 2: We already know that the circuit works properly, given appropriate parts. 

 3: An SRD-7 with one normal bias socket and one pro bias socket is at least 70% more useful than either the original SRD-7 or the SRD-7 Pro.


----------



## spritzer

It can be something as easy as a bad connection that causes the channel imbalance so Deoxit is your friend. Just don't get any of it on the diaphragm as the carbon coating could be damaged. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone here confirm or disconfirm that the 1N6295C aka 1.5KE100C currently available from Littlefuse, Fagor, etc, are a reasonable equivalent of the long-discontinued Z1100 part in the MkII schematic? (or in the case of the original schematic, 1N6293C aka 1.5KE82C for Z1082)._

 

The Z1100 is really just two 100v zener's back to back so why not just use those instead?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Z1100 is really just two 100v zener's back to back so why not just use those instead?_

 

I can't seem to find a 100v zener with specs that look like the Z1100. Doesn't help that transient voltage suppressors - which are just two zeners back to back - are specified with different terminology than zeners. 

 The part numbers i suggested are transient suppressors with specs very very close to the Z1100. Precisely the same if you look at the Fagor datasheet - but i can't find anyone carrying their part. The Littlefuse parts are a couple volts different, but available pretty much everywhere. 

 I'm more wondering if anyone's been down this same road before, perhaps used one.


----------



## spritzer

I built a version of this circuit back when it was retraced but used 81v zeners back to back (all I had at hand) but I can't remember if I ever fired it up. Using two zeners should have the same results since that's what Stax did on the older normal bias supplies and Beyer did on the N-1000 but it should be tested and compared.


----------



## marcus1

I have a SRM-1/MK Ⅱamp and trying to decide between the SR-303 or the SR-404. 
 I remember reading a while ago that, although more expensive, the SR-404 would be favored over the 303 because the cable is so much better - would this be the current thinking? 
 Or would one model be better suited (for my amp) than the other?

 thanks


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a SRM-1/MK Ⅱamp and trying to decide between the SR-303 or the SR-404. 
 I remember reading a while ago that, although more expensive, the SR-404 would be favored over the 303 because the cable is so much better - would this be the current thinking? 
 Or would one model be better suited (for my amp) than the other?

 thanks_

 


 Get thee an older pair of Lambda Pros--or even better, a pair of Lambda Sigs.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto. I'm using one now and it will tide me over until I get the BHSE or finish my own BH. 

 Voltage swing is only a part of the equation. You need current when the impedance drops and that's where the 717 comes out on top. Just look at how much power they draw from the wall and where all of it is going. The Stax tube amps were also never designed to drive the kind of load that a SR-007 presents and simply doubling up in the output stage on the 007t isn't going to transform the basic T1 design. Add that to the 6CG7's being fundamentally the wrong tube for the job and we prefer the 717..._

 

*Goodness, Spritzer is now using a transistor amp!!!!!!!*


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I built a version of this circuit back when it was retraced but used 81v zeners back to back (all I had at hand) but I can't remember if I ever fired it up. Using two zeners should have the same results since that's what Stax did on the older normal bias supplies and Beyer did on the N-1000 but it should be tested and compared._

 

Yeah, I've seen a schematic that uses an 82v device, i forget which one. probably the old srd-7. The srd-7 mkII schematic you posted a few days ago uses the 100v part. 

 i can't pull up a datasheet for the diode they say they used in the voltage multiplier, but I'm guessing i can use 1n4007 with no problem. 

 I guess next i should figure out an equivalent for that varistor. Or whether to leave it out.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Goodness, Spritzer is now using a transistor amp!!!!!!!*_

 

"I don't have to use tubes in my designs; I only do it for marketing reasons. I've got an exact equivalent in solid state. I can make either type do the same job, and I have no preference. People can't pick which is which. And electrons have no memory of where they've been! The end result is what counts."

 Tim de Paravichini (E.A.R)

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"I don't have to use tubes in my designs; I only do it for marketing reasons. I've got an exact equivalent in solid state. I can make either type do the same job, and I have no preference. People can't pick which is which. And electrons have no memory of where they've been! The end result is what counts."

 Tim de Paravichini (E.A.R)

 Cheers

 Tom_

 

Now there's a guy in firm denial of quantum mechanics. 

 -Schrodinger's Cat, Jr.


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"I don't have to use tubes in my designs; I only do it for marketing reasons. I've got an exact equivalent in solid state. I can make either type do the same job, and I have no preference. People can't pick which is which. And electrons have no memory of where they've been! The end result is what counts."

 Tim de Paravichini (E.A.R)_

 

Heh. At the 2006 Rocky Mountain Audio Fest, one of the displays was a blind test of a transistor vs. a tube amp. Most of the votes appeared random, but I was able to tell the exhibitor exactly which one was the tube amp, and why. Of the 200 or so people that they had tested by that point, I was apparently only the fifth person to make a clean identification. So, TdP may have it partly right, in that a lot of people really can't pick which is which. But those of us who can are rather emphatic about which we like.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Goodness, Spritzer is now using a transistor amp!!!!!!!*_

 

I've always used a SS amp in my computer rig except when I'm testing some gear so no need to panic... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I've seen a schematic that uses an 82v device, i forget which one. probably the old srd-7. The srd-7 mkII schematic you posted a few days ago uses the 100v part. 

 i can't pull up a datasheet for the diode they say they used in the voltage multiplier, but I'm guessing i can use 1n4007 with no problem. 

 I guess next i should figure out an equivalent for that varistor. Or whether to leave it out._

 

I've used 1n4007's with no problems in the past and I would just leave the varistor out. Most of this stuff was put in to make the thing idiot proof after a lot of arced phones in the past.


----------



## Johnny Blue

My SRD-7 looks so simple inside (relatively speaking) I can't believe it's a lifetime's project to up one of the sockets to Pro bias (especially as it's one of the older, mains-powered variants): I just need someone to tell me what to solder where!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRD-7 looks so simple inside (relatively speaking) I can't believe it's a lifetime's project to up one of the sockets to Pro bias (especially as it's one of the older, mains-powered variants): I just need someone to tell me what to solder where!_

 

It's not a lifetime's project. 

 But high voltage circuits are not to be trifled with. 

 Outside of the SRD-7, it's voltages cannot hurt you (unless you really work at it) because the resistor on the output of the bias circuit prevents much current from leaving it. If you put a load across it, the bulk of the voltage drops across the resistor. 

_Inside_ of the SRD-7 are voltages that can easily kill you if you don't show them proper respect. It is not the place to start learning about basic electrics.


----------



## Johnny Blue

That's useful to know! But surely if the SRD-7 is left unplugged for an hour or two, any potentially lethal charges will have dissipated (and I don't recall any big capacitors in there in any case), so it should then be safe to work on? Or am I in way over my head here?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Just completed the blutack port mod for MK2 - can't believe how plugging 2 ports can change the sound that drastically. The sound is now definitely close to MK1. I noticed that the bass has even more slam if I decreased the pressure from headbands. I guess with more pressure from the headbands, there's less room for the diaphragm to move with more pressure. MK1 is still more neutral relative to the MK2, which I prefer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's useful to know! But surely if the SRD-7 is left unplugged for an hour or two, any potentially lethal charges will have dissipated (and I don't recall any big capacitors in there in any case), so it should then be safe to work on? Or am I in way over my head here?_

 

A 0.1uF cap will sting at these voltages so I would discharge them before attempting any work. Like Eric said, HV is supposed to be respected but this isn't some mammoth project. The Mk2 bias supply can easily be built on a perfboard by a relative amateur. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just completed the blutack port mod for MK2 - can't believe how plugging 2 ports can change the sound that drastically. The sound is now definitely close to MK1. I noticed that the bass has even more slam if I decreased the pressure from headbands. I guess with more pressure from the headbands, there's less room for the diaphragm to move with more pressure. MK1 is still more neutral relative to the MK2, which I prefer._

 

Great to hear that you went ahead and fixed the bass issue. You will also have to modify the springs to get the same level of neutrality as the Mk1. Simply bending the center pin to make the springs sit more flush with the black plate would be a good step forward.


----------



## AudioPhewl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioPhewl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Anders. Yes, it does have the Electro-Harmonix tubes inside. I've got a multimeter, I'll do some searching 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

 ETA - have done some searching, and adjusting the bias sounds easy enough.

 What tubes should I be looking for? Are there any resources available stating the different characteristics of different tubes?

 Thanks,

 ~Phewl._

 

Sorry for bumping this with a quote of my last query, but I've not seen any replies. Does anyone have any information about what valves work best in the 006tII?

 Thanks,

 ~Phewl.


----------



## marcus1

As mentioned previously I`ve got a SRM-1/MK Ⅱamp and am now looking at headphone options. 
 At a local Hi FI shop I`ve found a used Stax Lamda Nova Signature`system` comprising of Stax Lamda Nova Signature headphones with an SRM-X amp with a BPS-600 charger. I thought it sounded pretty good at low volume but there was distortion when turned up. 
 I noticed at the time the guy had the phones plugged into the normal jack (of the amp) rather than the pro jack - would this have caused the distortion?
 I was only interested in the headphones but they wouldn`t split it up and want US$475 for the lot - I thought it was expensive but don`t know the going rate. 
 Any thoughts on what the above is worth?

 thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As mentioned previously I`ve got a SRM-1/MK ?amp and am now looking at headphone options. 
 At a local Hi FI shop I`ve found a used Stax Lamda Nova Signature`system` comprising of Stax Lamda Nova Signature headphones with an SRM-X amp with a BPS-600 charger. I thought it sounded pretty good at low volume but there was distortion when turned up. 
 I noticed at the time the guy had the phones plugged into the normal jack (of the amp) rather than the pro jack - would this have caused the distortion?
 I was only interested in the headphones but they wouldn`t split it up and want US$475 for the lot - I thought it was expensive but don`t know the going rate. 
 Any thoughts on what the above is worth?

 thanks_

 

I'd go back and listen to it through the correct jack, and maybe bring your SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with you. Either way, if the distortion goes away I would buy it, but that's me. 

 You can always sell it later, or sell only the spare amp. Some people think the Lambda Nova Sig is too tame vs the Lambda Sig, and others like it better. I really like my Lambda and Lambda Sig, and Sterophile loved the Lambda Nova Signature the most.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As mentioned previously I`ve got a SRM-1/MK Ⅱamp and am now looking at headphone options. 
 At a local Hi FI shop I`ve found a used Stax Lamda Nova Signature`system` comprising of Stax Lamda Nova Signature headphones with an SRM-X amp with a BPS-600 charger. I thought it sounded pretty good at low volume but there was distortion when turned up. 
 I noticed at the time the guy had the phones plugged into the normal jack (of the amp) rather than the pro jack - would this have caused the distortion?
 I was only interested in the headphones but they wouldn`t split it up and want US$475 for the lot - I thought it was expensive but don`t know the going rate. 
 Any thoughts on what the above is worth?

 thanks_

 

There shouldn't be any distortion, let alone from the normal bias output. You get a softer presentaion when driving Pro bias phones from the normal bias output since the amp doesn't "grip" the diaphragm as well. Electrostatic phones don't normally distort when something is wrong with them (they squeal and make other noises) so my guess is that it's the amp. It's not a terribly good amp and the great grandfather of the current SRM-252 so the LNS could do a lot better. The price isn't all bad but you could get a new 2050 system from Japan for about the same and my guess is that the LNS will need a set of new earpads soon which are another 50$.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just completed the blutack port mod for MK2 - can't believe how plugging 2 ports can change the sound that drastically. The sound is now definitely close to MK1. I noticed that the bass has even more slam if I decreased the pressure from headbands. I guess with more pressure from the headbands, there's less room for the diaphragm to move with more pressure. MK1 is still more neutral relative to the MK2, which I prefer._

 

Good to hear about a fairly simple mod which can make things better. I am still breaking in my recently acquired 007A and think it sounds great out of the box, but then everything can be improved.

 As regard the port, where is it and what exactly did Stax do there? There seems to be a "semi" fart when I press the phones, which shouldn't be there if the phones are vented. It almost seems as if there is some sort of flap on the vent.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As regard the port, where is it and what exactly did Stax do there? There seems to be a "semi" fart when I press the phones, which shouldn't be there if the phones are vented. It almost seems as if there is some sort of flap on the vent._

 





 Mk1 on the left and "A" on the right with blutack in place. The Mk1 has a small resin plug for the port and the different cable entry which makes all the difference. Stax could have listened to us complaining and done something about this... are you up for some investigation?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hirsch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh. At the 2006 Rocky Mountain Audio Fest, one of the displays was a blind test of a transistor vs. a tube amp. Most of the votes appeared random, but I was able to tell the exhibitor exactly which one was the tube amp, and why. Of the 200 or so people that they had tested by that point, I was apparently only the fifth person to make a clean identification. So, TdP may have it partly right, in that a lot of people really can't pick which is which. But those of us who can are rather emphatic about which we like._

 

I wouldn't dispute this at all. What exactly do you hear as the difference and do you have any idea why others are not sensitive to these differences?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



 Mk1 on the left and "A" on the right with blutack in place. The Mk1 has a small resin plug for the port and the different cable entry which makes all the difference. Stax could have listened to us complaining and done something about this... are you up for some investigation? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the photo. This will make it much easier to do this mod when, as will probably happen, I do it.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Definitely do the mod only if you like the sound of MK1; there are some that prefers MK2 over MK1. spritzer has a guide he wrote that he'll probably send you if you ask


----------



## Veefy

Hello,

 I am about to join Club Stax after impulse purchasing a set of Stax 3030 online for a good price. Mainly for late night listening, cyberman impersonation and because I have no self will when I see shiny things on the net I want to buy.

 I'm looking for suggestions for an amp to match. It seems my options are:

 1 - Get a Stax amp new in Aus and pay stupidly high markup to local. And there seems to be a perception that the lower model modern day Stax amps aren't that great?
 2 - Get an good quality alternative like the Woo Audio GES (a long term approach for a seperate system).
 3 - Get one of the old transformers thingies that Stax used to sell and use my main amp that I have for my speaker system. Note: that is an exceptional pure integrated 40W solid state amp that I would consider high end, its an amp designed/voiced with high efficiency speakers in mind though rather than electrostatic.
 4 - Buy a vintage Stax amp locally if one comes up.

 Option 3 is most appealing as probably lowest cost and uses existing amp quality. Are there any drawbacks/compatibility issues I should be aware of in doing this? Option 2 is probably overkill but maybe someone who has heard that combo could comment.

 Thanks in advance.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Welcome to head-fi, sorry about your wallet.

 The SRS-3030 system consists of the SR-303 earspeakers and SRM-313 energizer. 

 1. If you have local Hi-Fi shop check them out, don't cross them off your list yet. The STAX SRM-007t is a good match for Lambda type earspeakers.
 2. You will have to wait for it to be built and pay for shipping from the U.S. of A.
 3. Great option but should wait for a pro bias model unit to come up for sale to get the best sound with the SR-303.
 4. Again wait for one with a pro bias jack or jacks. I'm not really sure if you can call something from the '80s vintage; would that make me vintage?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 I am about to join Club Stax after impulse purchasing a set of Stax 3030 online for a good price. Mainly for late night listening, cyberman impersonation and because I have no self will when I see shiny things on the net I want to buy.

 I'm looking for suggestions for an amp to match. It seems my options are:

 1 - Get a Stax amp new in Aus and pay stupidly high markup to local. And there seems to be a perception that the lower model modern day Stax amps aren't that great?
 2 - Get an good quality alternative like the Woo Audio GES (a long term approach for a seperate system).
 3 - Get one of the old transformers thingies that Stax used to sell and use my main amp that I have for my speaker system. Note: that is an exceptional pure integrated 40W solid state amp that I would consider high end, its an amp designed/voiced with high efficiency speakers in mind though rather than electrostatic.
 4 - Buy a vintage Stax amp locally if one comes up.

 Option 3 is most appealing as probably lowest cost and uses existing amp quality. Are there any drawbacks/compatibility issues I should be aware of in doing this? Option 2 is probably overkill but maybe someone who has heard that combo could comment.

 Thanks in advance._

 

I am not sure a better amp is needed for the 303. It should work well with what you are getting. Some tweaks may help though, such as footers, a better power cord and good ic's.

 If you are just experimenting to see what sounds you like you might try the transformer but as is noted above you need a pro bias unit which is harder to find. Some people like the tube sound as it seems to soften what some find to be a harshness with the lambda phones.


----------



## Veefy

Sorry, I'm an idiot. I meant to say I bought the Stax 303 (just the headphones) (not the 3030 system). So I don't have an energiser.

 edit: what's the actual model of the pro bias unit that would make the most sense? Is it this

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/OLD/SRD7(SB).pdf


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I'm an idiot. I meant to say I bought the Stax 303 (just the headphones) (not the 3030 system). So I don't have an energiser.

 edit: what's the actual model of the pro bias unit that would make the most sense? Is it this

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/OLD/SRD7(SB).pdf_

 

Not an idiot, just confused, as I have been with the several similar designations by Stax. Being new to them, we will get used to them after a while.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I'm an idiot. I meant to say I bought the Stax 303 (just the headphones) (not the 3030 system). So I don't have an energiser.

 edit: what's the actual model of the pro bias unit that would make the most sense? Is it this

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/OLD/SRD7(SB).pdf_

 

No, the PDF is referred to a "Normal bias" SRD for very old Stax headphones like the original first series Lambdas, SRX-mkIII, SR-5.
 You should look for the (more expensive and rarer) models SRD-7Professionell, SRD-7SBProfessionell, SRD-7mk2, SRD-7SBmk2.
 The mk2 varieties are suitable for both normal bias (6-pin) and pro bias (5-pin) headphones, the Professional varieties are pro bias only.
 The SB models are slightly better.
 Your headphones are made for pro bias (580V).


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely do the mod only if you like the sound of MK1; there are some that prefers MK2 over MK1. spritzer has a guide he wrote that he'll probably send you if you ask 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Just ordered my SR-007A last night from PriceJapan.com when the price dropped below $1,800. Price is even lower this morning at $1,783!

 I had ordered an SR-007 (MkI) from Audio Cubes II a week ago, before they pulled it off their site, but they informed me that they could no longer get any old stock.

 I have a small supply of Blu-Tak ready to go, if needed.


----------



## bralk

My LNS needs renovating. Audiocubes has headbands for the 404.
 Would they be OK on the LNS ?

 It looks like he ear pads are identical for the 404 and LNS models.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My LNS needs renovating. Audiocubes has headbands for the 404.
 Would they be OK on the LNS ?

 It looks like he ear pads are identical for the 404 and LNS models.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

The 404 and LNS arc assemblies (Stax speak for headband) are identical so just plug and play. The earpads are the same size but Stax changed the material since the one on the LNS pads doesn't hold up all that well. 

 What is wrong with it if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404 and LNS arc assemblies (Stax speak for headband) are identical so just plug and play. The earpads are the same size but Stax changed the material since the one on the LNS pads doesn't hold up all that well. 

 What is wrong with it if you don't mind me asking?_

 

The foam protection on the pads is disintegrating and the surface is cracking. 
 The headband is filled with the previous owner´s hair styling fluid and and cracking in some places.

 But they sound wonderful - like a little brother to the 007 and better than the 404.

 cheers and thanks for the info

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 I am about to join Club Stax after impulse purchasing a set of Stax 3030 online for a good price._

 

Welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ..and you're of course more than welcome to join Club Stax. Enjoy!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The foam protection on the pads is disintegrating and the surface is cracking. 
 The headband is filled with the previous owner´s hair styling fluid and and cracking in some places.

 But they sound wonderful - like a little brother to the 007 and better than the 404.

 cheers and thanks for the info

 Tom_

 

Nasty... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If the plastic arc is intact you can just buy a new pad to a save a bit and keep the phones nearly stock.


----------



## Veefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, the PDF is referred to a "Normal bias" SRD for very old Stax headphones like the original first series Lambdas, SRX-mkIII, SR-5.
 You should look for the (more expensive and rarer) models SRD-7Professionell, SRD-7SBProfessionell, SRD-7mk2, SRD-7SBmk2.
 The mk2 varieties are suitable for both normal bias (6-pin) and pro bias (5-pin) headphones, the Professional varieties are pro bias only.
 The SB models are slightly better.
 Your headphones are made for pro bias (580V)._

 

Cheers for the info.

 I've read elsewhere about an adaptor called the Illusion ESc-001? which you can get in Japan? Is that an equally good choice or available on the net somewhere. Google wasn't much help.

 Thanks for the welcome btw 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 I've only just recently been exposed to the world of electrostats after hearing some Quad ESL57 and the modern Quad ESL2905

 I've never really been one for closed headphones though I'm sure you people will convert me if I hang around here long enough


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've only just recently been exposed to the world of electrostats after hearing some Quad ESL57 and the modern Quad ESL2905_

 

Which did you prefer?


----------



## Veefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which did you prefer?_

 

The Quad ESL57 was in a larger and probably better acoustically room. The Quad ESL2905 had larger sweet spot and more high end amps and sources attached. Bass was definitely handled better by the modern Quad, perhaps it's a little more neutral and truthful (might be related to sources). I thought the ESL57 was a bit more "airy" with the presentation.

 I would like to hear some of the big stat speakers one day like Soundlab.


----------



## nsx_23

There's a pair of STAX SR-44 (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...r-44-a-359565/) on sale at the moment that I can get for about $150USD shipped. Would that be a great intro to the world of STAX? Also, would I need a voltage adapter to run it on 240V electricity? Finally, what does it take as input (RCA, mini, etc), as I don't have many cables lying around at the moment. 

 How would they compare to my current Grado SR60? I mainly listen to smooth jazz (e.g. Norah Jones, Diana Krall) and rock (KT Tunstall, Rage against the machine, etc). 

 I've been hoping to get hold of STAXs for a long time, so this seems like a good opportunity to finally do so at a price point that I can afford. Its either this or a pair of Atrio M5s, and personally I'd rather start building a home-listening rig.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's a pair of STAX SR-44 (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...r-44-a-359565/) on sale at the moment that I can get for about $150USD shipped. Would that be a great intro to the world of STAX? Also, would I need a voltage adapter to run it on 240V electricity? Finally, what does it take as input (RCA, mini, etc), as I don't have many cables lying around at the moment. 

 How would they compare to my current Grado SR60? I mainly listen to smooth jazz (e.g. Norah Jones, Diana Krall) and rock (KT Tunstall, Rage against the machine, etc). 

 I've been hoping to get hold of STAXs for a long time, so this seems like a good opportunity to finally do so at a price point that I can afford. Its either this or a pair of Atrio M5s, and personally I'd rather start building a home-listening rig._

 

The SR-44 are electret, not electrostatic headphones. They do not require any line voltage to work. The diaphragm has a permanent (almost) charge applied to it at the factory. A true electrostatic phone requires a external high voltage power supply to charge the diaphragm. Most Stax fans will tell you that the electrets are not in the same league as a true electrostatic phone. They would not be my choice to introduce you to the Stax world. If you are looking to spend the least amount of money I would look at a SR-3, SR-5, SR-X or SR-Lambda (low bias, 6 pin connector) with a SRD-6 or SRD-7 step-up transformer. The SRD’s will need to be driven by a loudspeaker amplifier that you hopefully already have, If not you will need a Stax SRM series amp that will bring the price up. The SR-3/SRD-6 combo would be the cheapest. The SR-Lambda/SRD-7 would be the most expensive but the best sounding IMO. If you look hard you should be able to find a true electrostatic system for under $200.

 The SRD series are step-up transformers that need to be driven by a loudspeaker amp with at least a few watts. The SRM series are amplifiers that have a RCA input connector and need a line level (200 mV) signal.


----------



## nsx_23

What about the SR-003?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the SR-003?_

 

You would need a high bias (5 pin connector) step-up transformer (SRD-7mk2 or SRD-7 Pro, both are rare and bring high $) or high bias SRM amp. I think this would take you over your budget. The SR-001mk2 system is a nice choice (Audiocubes II has them for $299US). This is not your typical phone. The headstage is closed-in, the tonal balance is soft on top and some find them uncomfortable. I would try them before I would buy. I have a SR-003 and they can be a lot of fun, but I would not recommend as a entry into the Stax sound. IMO the SR-3 or 5 with a SRD-6 is a good start for the dollar (but remember you will need a loudspeaker amp to drive them).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers for the info.

 I've read elsewhere about an adaptor called the Illusion ESc-001? which you can get in Japan? Is that an equally good choice or available on the net somewhere. Google wasn't much help._

 

You probably mean the Illusion ESC-*1*001.
 Some information around here: ‚ä‚Æ‚è‚ÌƒI[ƒfƒBƒIwŽŽ’®‰®x
 Or here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/ill...r-stax-185688/

 Its a battery operated energizer, with one Stax Pro output. Only available from japan (rumors say its out-of-production), with a price tag of ~$600.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its a battery operated energizer, with one Stax Pro output. Only available from japan (rumors say its out-of-production), with a price tag of ~$600_

 

It's no rumor, it says that production was ended on the Website. There could however be some floating around Japan that possibly could be bought.

 Kai...did you ever get a response back from Vinnie ? We really need someone to come up with a truly transparent adapter.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's no rumor, it says that production was ended on the Website. There could however be some floating around Japan that possibly could be bought._

 

I see! My japanese is a bit lacking, hence why I did not catch it...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai...did you ever get a response back from Vinnie ? We really need someone to come up with a truly transparent adapter._

 

I have not come as far as sending him an email yet. So no information...
 But its on my to-do list


----------



## Oublie

Hi Guys,

 Just got an early srm1/mk-2 dual normal bias connectors and an extension cable. Got a great deal but i've a query. Why would the cable have a 5pin pro connector on the male end (pins) and 6 pin normal/pro conntor on the female end (sockect)? Is this just a pro connector with a weird config or is it a magic cable for converting pro to normal bias? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Listening now but i'll have to let it burn in a while before i do a comparison with the srd-7SBmk2 with the nad amp.


----------



## Sherwood

I want to buy that cable from you sooooo bad.

 PM me. srsly.


----------



## John Buchanan

The cable allowed one to use normal and pro bias phones from their respective outlets using just one extension cable. Unfortunately, it also allows you to plug a normal bias phone into a pro bias socket. Don't try this!! I have one of these cables (they are round rather than the later flat ones) and yes - I did plug some normal bias phones into the wrong socket once - lots of squealing for about 1/4 second before I realised what had happened. No audible damage.


----------



## Oublie

I guessed as much, i'll give you a shout tommorrow Sherwood i only picked it up a few hours ago so not sure if i'm going to use it or not - might be moving some of my gear around.


----------



## ericj

I have two of those cables, iirc. people want to buy them? srsly?


----------



## Sherwood

I've scorched the earth looking for ANY extension for my old normal bias, and in three weeks nothing has turned up.

 I even thought about DIY, but the 600v requirement has me in a bind.

 Sometimes I wanna sit in my nice comfy chair and listen without moving the thing.

 That cable would be appropriate for my Lambda Normals, right? It's not electret specific or anything?


----------



## John Buchanan

Yes


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That cable would be appropriate for my Lambda Normals, right? It's not electret specific or anything?_

 

I got one with my SR-80 (+ SRD-4) and one with my SR-Lambda (+ SRD-7). I'm pretty sure they both work the same way. 

 I should probably consider selling one of them. It's hard to motivate me with small sums of money when i'm making a good salary, though. Maybe if i justify it by thinking that maybe the proceeds will pay for a new pair of pads for the lambda.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've scorched the earth looking for ANY extension for my old normal bias, and in three weeks nothing has turned up.

 I even thought about DIY, but the 600v requirement has me in a bind.

 Sometimes I wanna sit in my nice comfy chair and listen without moving the thing.

 That cable would be appropriate for my Lambda Normals, right? It's not electret specific or anything?_

 

I could loan you mine, but it is not for sale. Maybe you could by a spare from ericj? Let me know.

 Larry


----------



## Tachikoma

I think there's one on ebay germany at the moment. Kinda pricey though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did plug some normal bias phones into the wrong socket once - lots of squealing for about 1/4 second before I realised what had happened. No audible damage._

 

I've done that too... that SR-X was very loud all of a sudden.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could loan you mine, but it is not for sale. Maybe you could by a spare from ericj? Let me know.

 Larry_

 

Awful kind of you, Larry, but I have the suspicion that coming between you and any normal bias gear is unsafe.

 I'll probably just twist Eric's arm. Maybe I'll dangle some orthodynamics in front of him or something. I understand the net effect of nonstandard driver technology on Eric is akin to a cloud of pink smoke drifting in front of Pepe LePew.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll probably just twist Eric's arm. Maybe I'll dangle some orthodynamics in front of him or something. I understand the net effect of nonstandard driver technology on Eric is akin to a cloud of pink smoke drifting in front of Pepe LePew._

 

There are very few nonstandard driver technologies i don't already own examples of. 

 Just AMT, back-electret, and plasma, I think. and there are no _working_ plasmasonics around anyway.


----------



## Sherwood

Your statement had me go back and reread the awesome plasmasonic thread.

 I especially like the part about how Nelson Pass' plasma speaker prototypes sent him to the ER for nitrogen inhalation. Awesome!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Awful kind of you, Larry, but I have the suspicion that coming between you and any normal bias gear is unsafe.

 I'll probably just twist Eric's arm. Maybe I'll dangle some orthodynamics in front of him or something. I understand the net effect of nonstandard driver technology on Eric is akin to a cloud of pink smoke drifting in front of Pepe LePew._

 

ROFLMAO!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your statement had me go back and reread the awesome plasmasonic thread.

 I especially like the part about how Nelson Pass' plasma speaker prototypes sent him to the ER for nitrogen inhalation. Awesome!_

 

Have you seen the youtube video of the plasma speakers being developed? They've gone from breadboard to PCB already.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your statement had me go back and reread the awesome plasmasonic thread.

 I especially like the part about how Nelson Pass' plasma speaker prototypes sent him to the ER for nitrogen inhalation. Awesome!_

 

I was at the CES show when Nelson showed the ION CLOUD loudspeaker and I have a picture of him (in a suit) standing next to them. It was driven by 2 huge Threshold amps through Dayton-Wright step-up transformers that were the same ones used in their XG8 electrostatic loudspeakers. High End audio was fun back then.

 If I can find the picture I will post.


----------



## XFxGeforced

sorry, accidentally posted


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've scorched the earth looking for ANY extension for my old normal bias, and in three weeks nothing has turned up.

 I even thought about DIY, but the 600v requirement has me in a bind.

 Sometimes I wanna sit in my nice comfy chair and listen without moving the thing.

 That cable would be appropriate for my Lambda Normals, right? It's not electret specific or anything?_

 

You could use a high bias extension cord and fit a 6-pin female socket to it. You would want to solder the 2 bias pins of the socket to the one bias cord of the cable, or just link the 2 bias pins of the socket to each other.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could use a high bias extension cord and fit a 6-pin female socket to it. You would want to solder the 2 bias pins of the socket to the one bias cord of the cable, or just link the 2 bias pins of the socket to each other._

 

Looks like I'm going to sell him one of my extension cables. 

 WPI sockets are back in stock at allied, and some guy on ebay is selling 5-conductor 600v cable, but, he's selling the whole reel of it for $300, so, not really economical for a one-off.

 Edit: I still wonder if a knitting machine could be pressed into service to manufacture cloth-jacketed high-voltage ribbon cable out of individual wires and a bunch of thread or yarn. Come to think of it, I know two people who own looms. Hmmmmm.


----------



## Sherwood

Didn't you watch that Angelina Jolie movie over the summer, Eric? 

 All bad things start with knitting.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't you watch that Angelina Jolie movie over the summer, Eric? 

 All bad things start with knitting._

 

Can't say as i did. 

 Anyway, i had a chat with a friendly fiber freak, and he indicated that it should be very easy. He immediately started thinking up ways i could do it without his loom.


----------



## Sherwood

Allow me to introduce you to the brilliance that is *"Wanted"

*




 You see that thing in the background?

 That thing is _trouble._


----------



## ktm

It's really odd how stuff comes up on Ebay in bunches, then disappears.
 Earlier in the year, there was a lot of the old round cable extentions
 for sale. I got mine for about $22 if I remember. I thought about getting
 the new style, but it won't work for normal bias, and for the extra $100+
 is it really worth it? I also saw a lot of them bundled with the electrets.
 I got mine from the same guy selling a sr44 setup. That's why the price 
 is a bit fuzzy. I paid for the whole thing and combined shipping.
 I really need to find a good home for the sr44. Maybe it's time for son #2
 to move up from Grado to Stax!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's really odd how stuff comes up on Ebay in bunches, then disappears._

 

Right around the time head-fi was down last year, suddenly about 16 pair of yamaha orthos turned up on ebay. 

 I picked up two pair of YH-1's for less than $60. Single pairs have gone for $100+ since then.


----------



## ericj

Anybody got pictures of the SRD-7 MkII board? 

 I'm curious about the layout. 'cause i just ordered parts (well, TVS devices) to build a new board to stick in an SRD-7 MkI. 

 I figure I'll pull the PTH pieces off the original SRD-7 board and stick them on the DIY MkII board rather than go without them or try to find new ones that match the MkII schematic. I'm sure spritzer will probably suggest that i just leave them out - I suppose i might, but they do have some small amount of ohmic resistance that might make the SRD friendlier to amps, if higher impedance.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Allow me to introduce you to the brilliance that is *"Wanted"

*




 You see that thing in the background?

 That thing is trouble._

 

The pistole looks like a bit of trouble all by itself (not to mention its bearer). 

 Waiting for Ike ...

 -Tim


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's really odd how stuff comes up on Ebay in bunches, then disappears.
 Earlier in the year, there was a lot of the old round cable extentions
 for sale. I got mine for about $22 if I remember. I thought about getting
 the new style, but it won't work for normal bias, and for the extra $100+
 is it really worth it? I also saw a lot of them bundled with the electrets.
 I got mine from the same guy selling a sr44 setup. That's why the price 
 is a bit fuzzy. I paid for the whole thing and combined shipping.
 I really need to find a good home for the sr44. Maybe it's time for son #2
 to move up from Grado to Stax!_

 

The new cable _is_ better than the old one though.


----------



## Sherwood

While I'm willing to believe that your statement is true, for my purposes it wouldn't matter a great deal. I imagine they're both perfectly competent cables, and when I plug in an extension it's usually because what I'm about to engage in is something other than "critical listening".

 Usually sleeping in my big chair.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody got pictures of the SRD-7 MkII board?_

 

I am quite sure I have seen internal pictures of the SRD-7 MKII (or was it a Pro?) around here.
 Guess you have looked through this thread, right?


----------



## tako_tsubo

ericj...check your PM's

 Steve


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am quite sure I have seen internal pictures of the SRD-7 MKII (or was it a Pro?) around here.
 Guess you have looked through this thread, right?_

 

There's an SRD-7 Pro picture here: 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2782268-post770.html

 which might tell me enough, I guess. 

 Basically I'm being a weenie about figuring out the layout. If you've seen my P2P work you'll know why.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just ordered my SR-007A last night from PriceJapan.com when the price dropped below $1,800. Price is even lower this morning at $1,783!

 I had ordered an SR-007 (MkI) from Audio Cubes II a week ago, before they pulled it off their site, but they informed me that they could no longer get any old stock.

 I have a small supply of Blu-Tak ready to go, if needed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thought I'd be joining the STAX high-end team this afternoon when DHL dropped off my SR-007A and was looking forward to a weekend of electrostatic bliss. Unfortunately, when I opened the heavy box, it was an SRM-007tA instead! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hopefully PriceJapan.com has reasonable customer service and can rectify this in short order. No response to my e-mails yet, however.


----------



## Sherwood

I documented this in the "downsides of Stax" thread as well. Stax needs to change up their modeling scheme a little. Even their suppliers get mixed up.

 I'm so sorry about your lost weekend, WilCox. I can only imagine what that must be like.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thought I'd be joining the STAX high-end team this afternoon when DHL dropped off my SR-007A and was looking forward to a weekend of electrostatic bliss. Unfortunately, when I opened the heavy box, it was an SRM-007tA instead! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hopefully PriceJapan.com has reasonable customer service and can rectify this in short order. No response to my e-mails yet, however._

 

Thats quite a mix-up!
 Hopefully PriceJapan stick up to it and give you an easy exchange.

 Fingers crossed.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thought I'd be joining the STAX high-end team this afternoon when DHL dropped off my SR-007A and was looking forward to a weekend of electrostatic bliss. Unfortunately, when I opened the heavy box, it was an SRM-007tA instead! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hopefully PriceJapan.com has reasonable customer service and can rectify this in short order. No response to my e-mails yet, however._

 

You mean you got an amp instead of phones? Whoa.

 EIFL is still selling the 007A for $1750.00 shipping included for that price. I got mine from them in less than a week. I wonder if the price will continue to go down. I recall a similar slide with the 404 some years ago. Possibly Stax lowers the price as it gets back its investment.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new cable _is_ better than the old one though._

 


 I understand the high freq. extension is better than the old cable.
 But I assume since I'm using sr404 that a bit less HF extension is
 a good thing!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's an SRD-7 Pro picture here: 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2782268-post770.html

 which might tell me enough, I guess. 

 Basically I'm being a weenie about figuring out the layout. If you've seen my P2P work you'll know why._

 

I have pics here so just PM me your email address.


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thought I'd be joining the STAX high-end team this afternoon when DHL dropped off my SR-007A and was looking forward to a weekend of electrostatic bliss. Unfortunately, when I opened the heavy box, it was an SRM-007tA instead! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hopefully PriceJapan.com has reasonable customer service and can rectify this in short order. No response to my e-mails yet, however._

 

Seems they are sometimes confused about all the Stax stuff. Or they are dying to get rid of the 007tA's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe one reason why an 007tA stands here instead of the ordered 727A. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I'm sure they are trying hard to find a quick fix with you, too.
 First of all, this should be offering to send the 007tA back to Japan at their own expense.

 All the best,
 mopps


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mopps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems they are sometimes confused about all the Stax stuff. Or they are dying to get rid of the 007tA's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe one reason why an 007tA stands here instead of the ordered 727A. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I'm sure they are trying hard to find a quick fix with you, too.
 First of all, this should be offering to send the 007tA back to Japan at their own expense.

 All the best,
 mopps_

 

PriceJapan did get back to me a few hours ago and offered to pick up the SRM-007tA at no expense to me. They also offered me a $200 discount if I wanted to keep the amp ($1200 total cost to me). I think I will do that as I don't have the $5K right now for a "proper" amp to drive the SR-007A.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have pics here so just PM me your email address._

 

Why not post them here, for everyones pleasure?


----------



## arirug

Today a pair of Stax lambda Signature and a Stax SRM-1/MK-2.P.P. arrived from Iceland! This is my first stax-equipment ever, so I really look forward to listen to it later today! Thanks for wrapping it up very good Spritzer!


----------



## slwiser

^ Good combo, enjoy the music.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why not post them here, for everyones pleasure? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Just lazy/very busy I guess. Eric can post them if he wants to...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *arirug* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today a pair of Stax lambda Signature and a Stax SRM-1/MK-2.P.P. arrived from Iceland! This is my first stax-equipment ever, so I really look forward to listen to it later today! Thanks for wrapping it up very good Spritzer!_

 

Congratulations Arild! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Let us know when you have hooked it all up and listened to it for a while. I am quite sure you will be well pleased...


----------



## arirug

Thank you! First impression is very good! I will listen more seriously to it later today. I have spend some days reading the whole Stax thread (new), and now I`m into the old thread. There are a lot of good information here!


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I documented this in the "downsides of Stax" thread as well. Stax needs to change up their modeling scheme a little. Even their suppliers get mixed up.

 I'm so sorry about your lost weekend, WilCox. I can only imagine what that must be like._

 

Yes, the stax model designations create a lot of confusion not only in this forum where people are pretty savy, but with their distributors as well.

 Good news is that I have been listening to this SRM-007tA with my SR-404 and love the increased level of refinement over my SRM-006 MkII. So, I will be keeping the amp -- excuse me -- "driver unit" (must make sure to use STAX-speak!). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not a lost weekend afterall!


----------



## spritzer

One cool tidbit of information. I was digging through my old Stereophile mags reading Stax reviews and figured out that I own the SR-Omega that they used as a review sample.


----------



## derekbmn

That is pretty cool. How did you go about figuring this out....?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is pretty cool. How did you go about figuring this out....?_

 

Stereophile usually posts the serial numbers of the units under review.


----------



## derekbmn

Ah yes I remember know....It's been a LOOOOOONG time since I have subscribed to it. I may have to go digging and see if I have that issue. I quit subscribing around the time they went to the larger format.


----------



## nsx_23

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You would need a high bias (5 pin connector) step-up transformer (SRD-7mk2 or SRD-7 Pro, both are rare and bring high $) or high bias SRM amp. I think this would take you over your budget. The SR-001mk2 system is a nice choice (Audiocubes II has them for $299US). This is not your typical phone. The headstage is closed-in, the tonal balance is soft on top and some find them uncomfortable. I would try them before I would buy. I have a SR-003 and they can be a lot of fun, but I would not recommend as a entry into the Stax sound. IMO the SR-3 or 5 with a SRD-6 is a good start for the dollar (but remember you will need a loudspeaker amp to drive them)._

 

What about this: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...e-drop-361391/

 At the moment, I only have a corda XXS as an amplifier.....

 Would I be able to connect my iRiver H332 as an input?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about this: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...e-drop-361391/

 At the moment, I only have a corda XXS as an amplifier.....

 Would I be able to connect my iRiver H332 as an input?_

 

Same kit as audiocubes would sell you - and yes, the iriver would feed it just fine.


----------



## nsx_23

How does that kit sound?


----------



## ironman64

A random question for Stax owners: anyone interested in picking up a pair of Lambda Nova Signatures or SR-006t? 

 I thought I would drop it before heading over to the "For Sale" section.

 I'm trying to kill off the rest of my money in my bank account by trying to pick up a new laptop, so I made that grave decision that something else must part. But it's okay--SR-007a will be soon on the list of things to purchase. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyone interested simply drop me a line!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One cool tidbit of information. I was digging through my old Stereophile mags reading Stax reviews and figured out that I own the SR-Omega that they used as a review sample. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thats quite cool! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Then you certainly have a special pair of SR-Omega's.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah yes I remember know....It's been a LOOOOOONG time since I have subscribed to it. I may have to go digging and see if I have that issue. I quit subscribing around the time they went to the larger format._

 

It's the March 1995 issue with a Pass Aleph 0 on the front. The review is a great read as the SR-Ω is being compared to the He60/Hev70 system. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats quite cool! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Then you certainly have a special pair of SR-Omega's._

 

Cursed would be more like it, since the 007 drivers are in that set.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cursed would be more like it, since the 007 drivers are in that set. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

True! I though it were your SR-Omega pair with stock transducers...


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironman64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A random question for Stax owners: anyone interested in picking up a pair of Lambda Nova Signatures or SR-006t? 

 Anyone interested simply drop me a line!_

 

I just sent you a PM for both the items.


----------



## treebug

Just purchased the SRM 007t system. Can somebody recommend a top quality interconnect?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *treebug* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just purchased the SRM 007t system. Can somebody recommend a top quality interconnect?_

 

Congratulations! The SR-007 system is really top notch. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 Regarding interconnect.
 I have great experience with the Ridge Street Audio Designs Poiema!!!. Very well built and great sounding silver interconnect.

 Or provide us with some more information. Like:
 * Budget?
 * Balanced (XLR) or unbalanced (RCA)?
 * ...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *treebug* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just purchased the SRM 007t system. Can somebody recommend a top quality interconnect?_

 

I am very pleased with these silver interconnects with the silver bullet connectors. This is a very good price for them. They beat pants off my old Monster cables which cost about 80% of these.

Silver Resolution


----------



## WilCox

Looking for some help from the STAX experts.

 I am assuming that if I move the Brown->Green jumper to Blue->Purple and move the white (top left) wire from Brown to Purple, then I will have correctly configured my SRM-007tA for 117V.






 Is this correct? Thanks!


----------



## audiod

The weather in Detroit has been rainy for the last three days, and the remnants of hurricane Ike is going to dump more rain tonight. What a perfect time to listen to headphones! With so much time I started to compare some of my Lambda’s. After about a hour I decided to do a controlled comparison of my electrostatics.

 I took 1 minute sound bites from different cuts off different CD’s and recorded them to my Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. I also took some cuts off of vinyl and recorded at 24/96 on the Masterlink. I can access any cut instantly.

 For vocals I used Mary Black, Radka Tonif, Kellye Grey, Kenny Rankin and Jose Carreras.

 Classical was Ravel, Ibert & Tchaikovsky on Mercury, Rimksy-Korsokov on Decca.

 Pop/Rock was The Police, Cat Stevens, Led Zeppelin and Toad the Wet Sprocket. 

 Jazz was Pat Metheny, Brian Hughes, LA4 and Jazz at the Pawnshop.

 The phones in the comparison were the SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature, SR-202, SR-404, O2mk1, and Koss ESP-950. I also have SR-XmkIII, SR-XmkIII Pro, SR-5, O2mk2 and SR-003 but I did not include them because they all had a shortcoming. All the phones except the O2 were driven by my 007t. The O2 was driven by my 717. All the vintage Stax phones have new earpads. The Masterlink was connected to my Audible Illusions M3a driving my Stax amps. All interconnect was by Audioquest. The electronics were left on during the test. 

 I was judging them for musicality, tonal balance, low level detail, dynamics, extension and imaging. I did not compare that much for soundstage. As much as I love listening to headphones if I want soundstaging I listen to my loudspeakers.

 Because the O2 is considerably better than the others in almost all categories I used them as my reference.

 Let’s Start…

 SR-Lambda. The original Lambda is still one of my favorites and did well in this comparo. They have a even tonal balance, beautiful midrange (just a little forward), The highs are detailed but not the best of the bunch. Just a little of the Lambda glare. The bass is nice but not real deep. They do not have the dynamics that the Pro bias phones have but they are close.

 Lambda Pro. The Pro has always been a favorite also. The midrange is laidback and a little dark (similar to the O2). The bass is deep deep deep and punchy. The midbass is lean compared to the SR-Lambda. The Lambda glare is the least of the series. Dynamics are good. These phones, the O2 and Koss are the easiest to listen to loud. The Pro has gotten a little tarnished lately in this forum and IMO it is not deserved.

 Lambda Nova Signature. This phone sounds very similar to the 202 but with a little less of the Lambda glare. I can see why people like them. They seem to do everything fairly well. Sometimes they sound a little bland. They would probably make a good studio monitor.

 SR-202/404. They are the same only different?! The 404 sounds just like the Lambda Nova Signature but with added glare. This is the hardest phone to listen to loud (by far). These have the best low level detail of the Lambda series. The bass is not as deep and punchy as the Lambda Pro but not bad. The 202 did very well and is almost a Lambda Nova clone. They are a steel for the price.

 The Koss ESP-950. The Koss loves to play rock loud. The bass is deep (not as deep as the Lambda Pro), midrange is well balanced, dynamics are great, treble is extended but a little polite (by Lambda standards). The one thing that I noticed about them that I never noticed before is that the better Lambda’s are a little more refined. When listening to them with the most natural recordings there is a opaqueness to the timber of instruments. You only can tell when you switch back to a good Lambda or O2. If you listen to mostly pop/rock at high levels this is the one.

 The O2mk1. What can I say. They are better in every way. I can see why some people find them dark and unexciting. They only seem dark after listening to the Lambda’s for a while. What I find interesting is that they seem to find the good in bad recordings. It’s like magic! On the other hand the 404 finds the worst in good recordings. They need to be driven by a clean amp with good bandwidth. As good as the 007t is driving all the other phones it is not that well suited for the O2. The 717 is a much better match. 

 If I was on a desert island and could only have 2 phones it would be the O2 and Lambda Pro.

 Here is my order starting with my favorite.

 1. O2mk1 (I think that I’m going to sell my mk2 and find a backup mk1)
 2. Lambda Pro (I want all Lambda Pro lovers to raise their hand)
 3. Koss ESP-950 (I don’t know why this phone does not get more respect)
 4. Lambda Nova Signature (there is not much to dislike)
 5. SR-Lambda (better than the new phones and was made in the late seventies!)
 6. SR-202 (a real bargain)
 7. SR-404 (if Stax could get rid of the glare they would be #2)


----------



## Anders

audiod, thanks for the interesting review that makes it easier to select among alternatives. I agree that O2 Mk1 is i big step up from 404 and also from HE60. It is a pity that 404 has that glare as it is a very good headphone in other aspects. Maybe also too much midbass emphasis but that is much easier to live with and fun sometimes.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The weather in Detroit has been rainy for the last three days, and the remnants of hurricane Ike is going to dump more rain tonight. What a perfect time to listen to headphones! With so much time I started to compare some of my Lambda’s. After about a hour I decided to do a controlled comparison of my electrostatics.

 I took 1 minute sound bites from different cuts off different CD’s and recorded them to my Alesis Masterlink ML-9600. I also took some cuts off of vinyl and recorded at 24/96 on the Masterlink. I can access any cut instantly.

 For vocals I used Mary Black, Radka Tonif, Kellye Grey, Kenny Rankin and Jose Carreras.

 Classical was Ravel, Ibert & Tchaikovsky on Mercury, Rimksy-Korsokov on Decca.

 Pop/Rock was The Police, Cat Stevens, Led Zeppelin and Toad the Wet Sprocket. 

 Jazz was Pat Metheny, Brian Hughes, LA4 and Jazz at the Pawnshop.

 The phones in the comparison were the SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature, SR-202, SR-404, O2mk1, and Koss ESP-950. I also have SR-XmkIII, SR-XmkIII Pro, SR-5, O2mk2 and SR-003 but I did not include them because they all had a shortcoming. All the phones except the O2 were driven by my 007t. The O2 was driven by my 717. All the vintage Stax phones have new earpads. The Masterlink was connected to my Audible Illusions M3a driving my Stax amps. All interconnect was by Audioquest. The electronics were left on during the test. 

 I was judging them for musicality, tonal balance, low level detail, dynamics, extension and imaging. I did not compare that much for soundstage. As much as I love listening to headphones if I want soundstaging I listen to my loudspeakers.

 Because the O2 is considerably better than the others in almost all categories I used them as my reference.

 Let’s Start…

 SR-Lambda. The original Lambda is still one of my favorites and did well in this comparo. They have a even tonal balance, beautiful midrange (just a little forward), The highs are detailed but not the best of the bunch. Just a little of the Lambda glare. The bass is nice but not real deep. They do not have the dynamics that the Pro bias phones have but they are close.

 Lambda Pro. The Pro has always been a favorite also. The midrange is laidback and a little dark (similar to the O2). The bass is deep deep deep and punchy. The midbass is lean compared to the SR-Lambda. The Lambda glare is the least of the series. Dynamics are good. These phones, the O2 and Koss are the easiest to listen to loud. The Pro has gotten a little tarnished lately in this forum and IMO it is not deserved.

 Lambda Nova Signature. This phone sounds very similar to the 202 but with a little less of the Lambda glare. I can see why people like them. They seem to do everything fairly well. Sometimes they sound a little bland. They would probably make a good studio monitor.

 SR-202/404. They are the same only different?! The 404 sounds just like the Lambda Nova Signature but with added glare. This is the hardest phone to listen to loud (by far). These have the best low level detail of the Lambda series. The bass is not as deep and punchy as the Lambda Pro but not bad. The 202 did very well and is almost a Lambda Nova clone. They are a steel for the price.

 The Koss ESP-950. The Koss loves to play rock loud. The bass is deep (not as deep as the Lambda Pro), midrange is well balanced, dynamics are great, treble is extended but a little polite (by Lambda standards). The one thing that I noticed about them that I never noticed before is that the better Lambda’s are a little more refined. When listening to them with the most natural recordings there is a opaqueness to the timber of instruments. You only can tell when you switch back to a good Lambda or O2. If you listen to mostly pop/rock at high levels this is the one.

 The O2mk1. What can I say. They are better in every way. I can see why some people find them dark and unexciting. They only seem dark after listening to the Lambda’s for a while. What I find interesting is that they seem to find the good in bad recordings. It’s like magic! On the other hand the 404 finds the worst in good recordings. They need to be driven by a clean amp with good bandwidth. As good as the 007t is driving all the other phones it is not that well suited for the O2. The 717 is a much better match. 

 If I was on a desert island and could only have 2 phones it would be the O2 and Lambda Pro.

 Here is my order starting with my favorite.

 1. O2mk1 (I think that I’m going to sell my mk2 and find a backup mk1)
 2. Lambda Pro (I want all Lambda Pro lovers to raise their hand)
 3. Koss ESP-950 (I don’t know why this phone does not get more respect)
 4. Lambda Nova Signature (there is not much to dislike)
 5. SR-Lambda (better than the new phones and was made in the late seventies!)
 6. SR-202 (a real bargain)
 7. SR-404 (if Stax could get rid of the glare they would be #2)_

 

Thanks, a good review. I personally do not find the 404 to have a glare problem although they are "forward" sounding, something which works well with classical orchestral music as it allows you to hear the details. They are not as good with some other material especally if the recording is hot (i.e. treblish). I found that its charateristics can be tamed with IC's or my personal favorite Silclear contact enhancer.

 I think the 950 isn't as well regarded because its has a somewhat coarse sound and a treble peak that picks up things like tape noise. Otherwise I agree with what you say about it.

 I must do a comparison of the 007A , the 404 and the Sigma 404. I tend to agree that the 007's are a cut above everything else.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *treebug* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just purchased the SRM 007t system. Can somebody recommend a top quality interconnect?_

 

If you have a source with a balanced output, try these:
SILVER FOIL XLR CABLES IDEAL FOR AUDIO RESEARCH ETC 1m - eBay (item 170259829149 end time Sep-17-08 11:34:37 PDT)

 I really liked them with my SRM-717, plus they have a 30 day money back guarantee so there's no real risk in buying them. The seller is awesome to deal with too.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the 950 isn't as well regarded because its has a somewhat coarse sound and a treble peak that picks up things like tape noise. Otherwise I agree with what you say about it._

 

I've heard some people say that a lot of the coarseness of the 950 is a matter of the amp that comes with it. 

 Not hard to build an adapter cable to let it plug into a stax amp or transformer box.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My ESP/950 with APureSound Stax PC-OCC cable are not coarse - they are definitely rocking headphones too.

 I agree with much of Audiod's ranking but would I put the Lambda Pro below the SR-Lambda, and I haven't heard the SR-202 or 404. I just had a hard time getting engaged in the music with the missing mids on the Lambda Pro - HOWEVER with EQ adding in about 3 db to the mids I did like the Lambda Pro a lot. Since my CD player is my source 70% of the time, that didn't sit well with me needing EQ on my laptop to enjoy them. I owned them and sold them, then bought another and sold them too.


----------



## brat

In these threads I've seen many comparisons between different Stax headphones and especially Omega II mk1 and mk2. 
 I'm curious if anyone can do a comparison of two whole Omega systems - a "new" one (O2mk2 + SRM-727II/A or 007t) vs. an "older" one (O2mk1 + 717 or 006t). I think it would be usefull for all new users. Having in mind that the latter Omega II is developed with the newest generations amps it's fair to give it a try with them. I think it will be interesting to compare the "old" stax top system/sound to the new one.

 P.S. Is there still any place to buy _a new_ Omega II mk1?


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *treebug* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just purchased the SRM 007t system. Can somebody recommend a top quality interconnect?_

 

I've heard some _very expensive _(high-end 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) cables and many pretentious DIY ones but anyone impressed me so much as the carbon interconnects. I think only a headphone listener can appreciate the qualities of the carbon ICs. They give an unnatainable 3D soundstage, instrument definition and separation, a superb linearity in the high frequencies, very delicate details. I repeat - the carbon ICs have qualities which can be appreciated only with headphones. Try them.
 I use Van den Hul "the Second" but there are another carbon ICs on the market.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard some people say that a lot of the coarseness of the 950 is a matter of the amp that comes with it. 

 Not hard to build an adapter cable to let it plug into a stax amp or transformer box._

 

The Koss amp is somewhat marginal, but here I am talking about the Koss 950 being run off Stax amps because I am using just such an adapter.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In these threads I've seen many comparisons between different Stax headphones and especially Omega II mk1 and mk2. 
 I'm curious if anyone can do a comparison of two whole Omega systems - a "new" one (O2mk2 + SRM-727II/A or 007t) vs. an "older" one (O2mk1 + 717 or 006t). I think it would be usefull for all new users. Having in mind that the latter Omega II is developed with the newest generations amps it's fair to give it a try with them. I think it will be interesting to compare the "old" stax top system/sound to the new one.

 P.S. Is there still any place to buy a new Omega II mk1? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think that Stax wanted to make the new 727II sound like a tube amp but failed. As a result the amp is dull, lifeless and bland. Couple that with the new O2mk2 with its funky midbass and the result is not even close to the O2mk1/717. I have not heard the 007tII but was told that it is very close to the 007t. I love my 007t on the Lambda series, SR-5, SR-X, ESP-950 but not the O2mk1. I think that the 007t is just too underpowered and does not have the extention on the top and bottom needed for the O2.

 I have not tried the Birgir mod to the O2mk2 that mostly corrects the bass problem. I still think that the O2mk1 is more transparent in the midrange and top.

 I do not understand why Stax can't CLEARLY make products better than their old stuff. I know of more than one dealer that is not happy with their current lineup.

 I think that there are plenty of O2mk1 still available new.


----------



## progo

Maybe Stax has put aside some of the old products and then launched the new, bit worse, products. Then the employees sell the old stuff with enhanced prices after a while. I'd do this


----------



## spritzer

Companies take a wrong turn every now and again when releasing a new product, just see HD650, K701 and GS-1000 for reference. My guess would be that the original engineers involved in the SR-007 were not doing the redesign or have lost their minds.


----------



## antonyfirst

Guys, I am using the SR-001 MkII and I'm trying to figure out how the stax fart occurs. It seems to me that when I have a IEM-like seal the earpieces "fart", giving a suckout like sound, so I suppose that's not the way of proper insertion.


----------



## edstrelow

As best I know, any closed electrostatic can give a fart when the phones are placed on the ears (or in them for the SR001/2) because the diaphragm is being pushed by the increase in air pressure close to the stator and you are getting a voltage discharge between the diaphragm and the stator. The diaphragm will settle back in place after the pressure in the phone drops. 

 Even the old Koss ESP9 had warning about the fart, (although they didn't call it that.) 

 Most newer phones have some way of protecting the diaphragm from arcing and burning a hole, often just a simple plastic washer to prevent the diaphragm from getting too close to the stator. 

 I recall some years ago having a tech point out the holes in the diaphragm of the old B&W electrostatic hybrid speaker where they had burned through.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys, I am using the SR-001 MkII and I'm trying to figure out how the stax fart occurs. It seems to me that when I have a IEM-like seal the earpieces "fart", giving a suckout like sound, so I suppose that's not the way of proper insertion._

 


 The 001 fart is much better if you ditch the headband and just insert them in your ears.


----------



## arirug

Two more earspeakers bought! Stax lambda Pro and a new pair of Stax SR-303. Though it will take a week or two before I receive them. Meanwhile I am enjoying my pair of Lambda Signature and the SRM-1/Mk2 P.P. Since they arrived, I have fallen asleep every night with the Signatures on my head!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As best I know, any closed electrostatic can give a fart when the phones are placed on the ears (or in them for the SR001/2) because the diaphragm is being pushed by the increase in air pressure close to the stator and you are getting a voltage discharge between the diaphragm and the stator. The diaphragm will settle back in place after the pressure in the phone drops. 

 Even the old Koss ESP9 had warning about the fart, (although they didn't call it that.) 

 Most newer phones have some way of protecting the diaphragm from arcing and burning a hole, often just a simple plastic washer to prevent the diaphragm from getting too close to the stator. 

 I recall some years ago having a tech point out the holes in the diaphragm of the old B&W electrostatic hybrid speaker where they had burned through._

 

A bottoming out of the diaphragm (a fart) in almost all cases will not hurt the driver. Arcing the driver is caused by a spark (an over voltage when playing to loud or other failure) that is between the stators burning a small hole in the diaphragm. Because the diaphragm also acts as an insulator the driver will arc at a lower voltage than before. As the arcing continues you make the holes bigger and more of them. At that point the driver is ruined.

 When I owned a high end store in the seventies we were a Quad, Acoustat, Dayton-Wright and Stax dealer. I replaced many many drivers in stats. I remember some drivers out of the Quad ESL57 and Stax SR-XmkIII that the diaphragm looked like Swiss cheese. Some drivers have insulation around the stator and are hard to arc. Janszen, Acoustat and Audiostatic the stator was made of insulated wires. Martin-Logan uses a thick powder coating on perferated steel.


----------



## spritzer

Stax tried to limit the arcing by installing a protective circuit inside the cups (two diodes) but the move over to amps instead of energizers and ultimately the Pro bias resolved the issue. The transformers can output a lot of voltage in an instant and the protection only goes so far.


----------



## ludoo

In case anyone is interested, here are a couple of naked pics of my SRD-5 I took yesterday when I changed the rotten speaker cables. Click on the links for full size pics.


----------



## spritzer

That's a late model by the looks of it. I have one here with wax covered transformers (completely coated) and cloth covered wires dating back from the mid 60's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. is that a switch between the trafo's?


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a late model by the looks of it. I have one here with wax covered transformers (completely coated) and cloth covered wires dating back from the mid 60's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. is that a switch between the trafo's?_

 

The one on the bottom? Switches from 110 to 220.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The one on the bottom? Switches from 110 to 220._

 

It's a bit strange that Stax used a switch for that when the SRD-7's of a similar vintage all have zener's on the input of the bias supply to step down the voltage...


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a bit strange that Stax used a switch for that when the SRD-7's of a similar vintage all have zener's on the input of the bias supply to step down the voltage..._

 

If you want a pic of the bottom with a view of the switch, or close-ups of anything just ask, I can take them tomorrow when I get back upstairs.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a bit strange that Stax used a switch for that when the SRD-7's of a similar vintage all have zener's on the input of the bias supply to step down the voltage..._

 

Ah, I'd always assumed that the SRDs were sequential, so the -6 replaced the -5, and the -7 the -6. Clearly, I'm wrong in this assumption, not least because I have an SRD-6 SB, which is black in colour, and has the newer, 'straight' Stax logo, whereas my SRD-7 (mains bias) is silver and has the older, 60s-style '_ΞStaxΞ_' logo.

 Presumably these different models were available at the same time and varied in price, much like we have the 2050/3050/4040 systems nowadays?


----------



## spritzer

That's true. Originally there were SRD's 1, 2 and 3 which all varied in price and features but none of them lasted long and the SRD-5 had taken over by the late 60's. The SRD-7 was released in the early 70's as a high end option and the SRD-6 released later to replace the 5 as a more cost effective option. The SRD-4 came later on and was an even cheaper models for electrets only.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Ah, that's interesting, and makes sense in terms of what the various SRDs actually look like. I'd always trusted the Stax history page, but clearly it's not totally accurate.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Also, looking at the Stax history page, I see that the SRD-1 had variable bias! (If only we could do someting similar to get our ubiqitous SRD-7s to drive our Pro-bias Stax!)


----------



## spritzer

Variable bias is relatively east to do, just look at the bias supply in the Gilmore amps.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Variable bias is relatively east to do, just look at the bias supply in the Gilmore amps._

 

My SRM-T1w has 2 Pro and 1 Normal bias outputs. One of the Pro outputs has a variable bias. I don't think that it can be adjusted down to normal bias levels but looking at the schematic could give some insight. I do not have the schematic. Interestingly the Stax manual says to use the variable bias control as a volume control to match levels of different phones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-T1w has 2 Pro and 1 Normal bias outputs. One of the Pro outputs has a variable bias. I don't think that it can be adjusted down to normal bias levels but looking at the schematic could give some insight. I do not have the schematic. Interestingly the Stax manual says to use the variable bias control as a volume control to match levels of different phones._

 

You can only adjust it down to 500v. It's a simple variable voltage divider if I remember correctly much the same as is often used to drop the Pro bias down to 230v in amps.


----------



## treebug

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard some very expensive (high-end 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) cables and many pretentious DIY ones but anyone impressed me so much as the carbon interconnects. I think only a headphone listener can appreciate the qualities of the carbon ICs. They give an unnatainable 3D soundstage, instrument definition and separation, a superb linearity in the high frequencies, very delicate details. I repeat - the carbon ICs have qualities which can be appreciated only with headphones. Try them.
 I use Van den Hul "the Second" but there are another carbon ICs on the market._

 

Thanks brat-I'll give Van den Hul a try. I'm finding the sound on my system a little bright at the moment (although I'm told the brightness is not so pronounced after 200 hours use?) and I'm hoping the I/C's will give it a warmer sound?


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thought I'd be joining the STAX high-end team this afternoon when DHL dropped off my SR-007A and was looking forward to a weekend of electrostatic bliss. Unfortunately, when I opened the heavy box, it was an SRM-007tA instead! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hopefully PriceJapan.com has reasonable customer service and can rectify this in short order. No response to my e-mails yet, however._

 

DHL delivered another box from PriceJapan.com this morning and this time there was an SR-007A inside! I can attest to their great customer service in rectifying this matter promptly.

 First listen to the SR-007A is very promising! Very different from my SR-404 -- warm and extended with no obvious peakiness. Also a wonderful and solid 3-dimensional soundstage. Now, I need some time with them to let these phones and my ears break-in!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DHL delivered another box from PriceJapan.com this morning and this time there was an SR-007A inside! I can attest to their great customer service in rectifying this matter promptly._

 

That was quick!
 Guess its time for a short *congratulations* then. Hope you enjoy it.


----------



## Ricey20

I finally got my SRM-T1 yesterday and after listening to my O2 MK1s, got to say they are the best i've heard so far. Now I really want my BH SE


----------



## JadeEast

Hey Mafia

 I came across this image in my web surfing.
 1980s Japanese magazine cover.
 What is up with the black eye?


----------



## Sherwood

Maybe one of those Sigma pins came loose?


----------



## ericj

What I'm wondering is if I'm supposed to recognize the face.


----------



## Sherwood

Question for Stax gurus: according to the info I found on wiki and these boards, there are a handful of Stax amps that can drive both Normal and Pro 'phones. 

 I only own normals at the moment, but I anticipate moving on up (bias-wise) at some point in the future. I'd love an amp that won't run into obsolescence when I do.
 Are any of these dual-voltage amps decent? If so, which should I look out for?


----------



## Elephas

My SRM-T1W has both Normal and Pro outputs, though I don't have any Normal headphones.

 It is decent. It drives the Airbow SR-SC1 and 4070 quite well, and the SR-Omega also does surprisingly good. However, I don't think it's a good match for the SR-007 or SR-007Mk2.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-T1W has both Normal and Pro outputs, though I don't have any Normal headphones.

 It is decent. It drives the Airbow SR-SC1 and 4070 quite well, and the SR-Omega also does surprisingly good. However, I don't think it's a good match for the SR-007 or SR-007Mk2._

 

I doubt there's anything with a normal bias output that does justice to the Sr-007s. 

 Except, of course, the BHSE with a normal jack. I could get one, but I would have nothing left to listen to it through, nothing to plug into it, and no wall remaining to plug it_ into_. Seems like a real "ground zero" approach to system building.


----------



## spritzer

You don't know what a normal bias Sigma is supposed to sound like until you've heard it on a BH so a normal bias output is a good idea. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The T1 amps are a good option for all the less demanding cans but you can always build a cable to borrow the bias from some other source. That's what I did with my single output BH.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for Stax gurus: according to the info I found on wiki and these boards, there are a handful of Stax amps that can drive both Normal and Pro 'phones. 

 I only own normals at the moment, but I anticipate moving on up (bias-wise) at some point in the future. I'd love an amp that won't run into obsolescence when I do.
 Are any of these dual-voltage amps decent? If so, which should I look out for?_

 

It looks like Stax is no longer making amps with any low bias outputs, but it did so until fairly recently (check the Stax history page 
http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/History.html:// )

 As a related question is it too difficult to convert a high bias output to low bias? I realize there is a problem with the number of pins, but that is not insurmountable.


----------



## blessingx

One of the reasons I haven't upgraded beyond the 007t is its feature-set including normal and dual pro-biased jacks. Although I didn't much care for the O2/007s out of it (though to be honest I've felt the same with the KKGS, GES, etc.), the Lambdas, Gammas and Golds all sound quite nice with it.

 And on this subject Jack Woo in the past has offered to add a normal bias jack on the GES if a person would be willing to send a normal bias phone to test with.

 Sometimes I feel one of the issues of how electrostatics amps are discussed is O2 specific. Amps powering them (especially "waking them up") are ranked and then applied to all other electrostatic phones. It's as if only HD650s are used for all dynamic rankings. So even though some think the BH can sound a bit bright with Lamdba-class, a more synergetic Stax amp can be "a bottleneck" as everyone knows that all Stax amps are inferior to offerings by Headamp, Singlepower, Woo, etc. (with all electrostatic phones .... obviously). Coupled with a seemingly general opinion that all electrostatic owners are aiming eventually for an O2 sound, though some of us aren't (why this is discussed privately and not more publicly I'm still trying to figure out), a lot of these rankings (usually echoing around) are more than a bit over-simplified. Or put it another way with the best possible spin, even if amps generally stated as superior over others, are, their increase in SQ with your phones may not be enough to warrant the price boost or feature set loss. Probably stating the obvious, but just wanted to mention it.


----------



## edstrelow

Tend to agree with the above post. This is not to mention that some of us like the old low bias phones, at least for some uses. I was listening to movie soundtracks last night with the low bias SRXIII/SRA12S amp combination and the sound is superb. Now I woudln't recommend these phones as an all-purpose set but for this use they are right up there with the best. Possibly this weekend I will try them with a Dolby Headphone setup.


----------



## Sherwood

well, my modest setup currently employs a Lambda normal through an SRD-6SB powered by an NAD C320BEE. None of it is particularly standout, but it's extremely musical and I enjoy it.

 I would like for my first dedicated electrostatic amp to provide me the possibility to A/B pro bias sets with my normals, and it seems there are a number of options, from the SR007t (thanks, blessingx) to the SRM-1 Pro.

 I guess I'll just wait and watch. Thanks for the T1 recommendation, Birgir.


----------



## spritzer

You have a good point about how the Stax amps are ranked but I personally draw a line between how an amp sounds (it shouldn't) and how much power it has. Altering the "sound" is easy to do but the power output is crucial, not only with the SR-007 but most of the electrostatic headphones. I also always use the SR-007 as a benchmark simply because it is the most neutral headphone there is.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One of the reasons I haven't upgraded beyond the 007t is its feature-set including normal and dual pro-biased jacks. Although I didn't much care for the O2/007s out of it (though to be honest I've felt the same with the KKGS, GES, etc.), the Lambdas, Gammas and Golds all sound quite nice with it.

 And on this subject Jack Woo in the past has offered to add a normal bias jack on the GES if a person would be willing to send a normal bias phone to test with.

 Sometimes I feel one of the issues of how electrostatics amps are discussed is O2 specific. Amps powering them (especially "waking them up") are ranked and then applied to all other electrostatic phones. It's as if only HD650s are used for all dynamic rankings. So even though some think the BH can sound a bit bright with Lamdba-class, a more synergetic Stax amp can be "a bottleneck" as everyone knows that all Stax amps are inferior to offerings by Headamp, Singlepower, Woo, etc. (with all electrostatic phones .... obviously). Coupled with a seemingly general opinion that all electrostatic owners are aiming eventually for an O2 sound, though some of us aren't (why this is discussed privately and not more publicly I'm still trying to figure out), a lot of these rankings (usually echoing around) are more than a bit over-simplified. Or put it another way with the best possible spin, even if amps generally stated as superior over others, are, their increase in SQ with your phones may not be enough to warrant the price boost or feature set loss. Probably stating the obvious, but just wanted to mention it._

 

I'm hoping to see my Maxed Woo GES with pro and normal bias jacks ship next week. I paid the extra $150 for normal bias jack since I still like my vintage SR-5NB Gold edition and SR-Lambda. 

 I've been using the 3yr old GES Prototype and with borrowed SR-007 at the Colorado head-fi meet it wasn't too bad, but is especially good with HE-60, ESP950 and SR-Lambda Signature. Can't wait to see how the new one sounds! Even the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro did a better job driving the SR-007 than I thought it would.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are any of these dual-voltage amps decent? If so, which should I look out for?_

 

They sure are!
 The SRM-007t are quite decent, and so are the SRM-T1 (I have heard). There are others out there as well, both Stax and aftermarket.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blessingx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coupled with a seemingly general opinion that all electrostatic owners are aiming eventually for an O2 sound, though some of us aren't (why this is discussed privately and not more publicly I'm still trying to figure out), a lot of these rankings (usually echoing around) are more than a bit over-simplified._

 

Excellent points. My Lambda Sigs out of the 007t is my favorite combo right now.


----------



## Faust2D

I finally got my SR-007 Mk1 and SRM-T1S amp. I like O2 out of T1 just fine, especially the bass. It also sound very nice out of SRM-1Mk2 Pro. I still need to get used to the O2 fit and sound, but so far my impressions are positive. I get Stax fart but more so out of left driver, why would that happen? Different seal on different ears, no?


----------



## spritzer

Could very well be due to the shape of your head or that one earpad hasn't been installed correctly. Is there any difference in bass output between the earpieces?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I finally got my SR-007 Mk1 and SRM-T1S amp. I like O2 out of T1 just fine, especially the bass. It also sound very nice out of SRM-1Mk2 Pro. I still need to get used to the O2 fit and sound, but so far my impressions are positive. I get Stax fart but more so out of left driver, why would that happen? Different seal on different ears, no?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Regarding the Stax fart on left driver only. There may be several reasons, like headband position, earpads position (rotation), head shape, and more. Or if you have a used pair, the earpads might need to be replaced.

 Enjoy!


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Regarding the Stax fart on left driver only. There may be several reasons, like headband position, earpads position (rotation), head shape, and more. Or if you have a used pair, the earpads might need to be replaced.

 Enjoy!_

 

I figured it out actually, it was the headband that I had to bend to get the correct fit. Sounds better now and the fart is strong


----------



## wualta

StrongFart!

 Well? is the sound the most neutral evar, and so on? You can tell us.


----------



## Johnny Blue

Do I gather from this current tack that getting a good fart on the Omega II/SR-007 is something to be aimed for? And how does one achieve it (assuming one has a set of the Omegas to begin with!)? (I also assume that, unless one has adopted Birgir's BluTak modification, this farting business is not an issue with the new SR-007 Mk2/A... )


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I gather from this current tack that getting a good fart on the Omega II/SR-007 is something to be aimed for? And how does one achieve it (assuming one has a set of the Omegas to begin with!)? (I also assume that, unless one has adopted Birgir's BluTak modification, this farting business is not an issue with the new SR-007 Mk2/A... )_

 

Guess you can say so. Since a strong and even (on both sides) fart sound mean that you have an air tight connection between the SR-007 and your head.

 The lack of air tight connection are said to be part of why the SR-007 MK2 / SR-007A sound different than the SR-007 / SR-007BL.


----------



## spritzer

The "fart" (I prefer to call it a squeal but each to his own) is a side effect of the airtight seal that the phones produce. All electrostatics can make this noise when pushed against the head (forcing out air) but the SR-007 and SR-001/3 make it in normal use. An airtight seal is always preferred with planar drivers since it cancels out backwave bleed which eats up the bass. The same thing applies to ESL's if you put them on a larger baffle you get more bass output. 

 Stax did indeed "fix" this issue on the Mk2/A but killed the accurate bass of the Mk1 and SR-Omega. They did the same with my SR-Omega/007 hybrid as can be seen in the pictures I've included and a little blutac had the same effect as on the SR-007A. It's almost as if all the good engineers have quit and we are left with those that don't know what they are doing. A bit like Quad today who really don't know what they are doing by building a time bomb into every speaker....









  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The lack of air tight connection are said to be part of why the SR-007 MK2 / SR-007A sound different than the SR-007 / SR-007BL._

 

That affects the bass and the increased height of the earpads screws with the midrange balance. Both are easy to fix though...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_StrongFart!

 Well? is the sound the most neutral evar, and so on? You can tell us._

 

Still listening and need to form an opinion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 So far so good, sounds nice out of SRM-T1S and SRM-1Mk2 Pro. Unfortunately I do not have a Pro adapter to test it with any of my amps. As far as "most neutral evar", it seems to be flattish similar to LNS but the bass is better and extends forevar


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A bit like Quad today who really don't know what they are doing by building a time bomb into every speaker...._

 

OK, I'll bite. How is Quad building a time bomb into every speaker?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, I'll bite. How is Quad building a time bomb into every speaker?_

 

Faulty bias supplies will overvolt the panels and destroy them.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Faulty bias supplies will overvolt the panels and destroy them._

 

That's not good! I've been a planar fan for over two decades now and have been considering the Quads after selling my Maggies. Most of what I've heard about the current Chinese manufactured Quads has been positive. Is the bias problem fixable?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's not good! I've been a planar fan for over two decades now and have been considering the Quads after selling my Maggies. Most of what I've heard about the current Chinese manufactured Quads has been positive. Is the bias problem fixable?_

 

Just buy a refurbished 57 or 63 like I'm going to do. The build quality of the new units isn't all that good and the restorers do a better job. 

 The bias issue can be fixed with an after market supply but not by Quad since they are just ignoring it or haven't realized what's going on.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just buy a refurbished 57 or 63 like I'm going to do. The build quality of the new units isn't all that good and the restorers do a better job._

 

Great idea! Getting a two pairs of restored 57's and putting together an HQD system would be retro-cool!






 (Enough OT! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now back to STAX!)


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The "fart" (I prefer to call it a squeal but each to his own) is a side effect of the airtight seal that the phones produce._

 

How do you position the O2 on your head to achieve airtight seal? I am still playing with positioning and want some pointers


----------



## spritzer

I have the seam on the earpads pointing forward and about 20-30° upwards towards the temples. The arc assembly slants about 30° forward so it rests above my forehead and not on top of my head.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the seam on the earpads pointing forward and about 20-30° upwards towards the temples. The arc assembly slants about 30° forward so it rests above my forehead and not on top of my head._

 

Okay, I'll be the first to say we need pics!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great idea! Getting a two pairs of restored 57's and putting together an HQD system would be retro-cool

 (Enough OT! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now back to STAX!)_

 

Check out the massive Audio Research D150 and Mark Levinson ML2 in the background! I would love to assemble just a stacked pair of Quad 57s - there were instructions for the frame on the net.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I'll be the first to say we need pics! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nah... I'm fairly sure that Dmitriy will figure it out. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out the massive Audio Research D150 and Mark Levinson ML2 in the background! I would love to assemble just a stacked pair of Quad 57s - there were instructions for the frame on the net._

 

Quad released the instructions back in the day but that is the Mark Levinson HQD system which used massive 18" woofers and Decca ribbon tweeters to augment the dual Quads. Today you can get even triple or quadruple stacked 57's if you have pockets deep enough.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check out the massive Audio Research D150 and Mark Levinson ML2 in the background! I would love to assemble just a stacked pair of Quad 57s - there were instructions for the frame on the net._

 

Thats not a D150. It's a D79. One of my favorites!!


----------



## Johnny Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I'll be the first to say we need pics! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Come on, get real! Birgir can't possibly post pictures of himself wearing Omegas, or anything else for that matter: he doesn't really exist, he is just the product of our collective imaginations. God doesn't exist, so we have to create him!


----------



## webbie64

Plus I understand he's a baker. I'm sure his toque (baker's hat) would cover vital pictorial information. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnny Blue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Come on, get real! Birgir can't possibly post pictures of himself wearing Omegas, or anything else for that matter: he doesn't really exist, he is just the product of our collective imaginations. God doesn't exist, so we have to create him! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Victor Chew

What are you guys using for CD source for the LNS? solid state or tube CD player?


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(Enough OT! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now back to STAX!)_

 

No hurry. Let's admire the stacked Quads in their trestles, nestling in their naughty-pine habitat, a bit longer. [admires]


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the seam on the earpads pointing forward and about 20-30° upwards towards the temples. The arc assembly slants about 30° forward so it rests above my forehead and not on top of my head._

 

This arrangement worked for me as well, the Fart Is Strong now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks spritzer!

 I like O2 out of SRM-T1S a bit more than SRM-1 even though it has less rated power. I guess better parts, topology and tubes have to do something with it. 

 Since I do not have BH this will have to be my system for a while, might be a long while because I was not happy with the GU50 amp ATM, still needs work since it is overdriving everything.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This arrangement worked for me as well, the Fart Is Strong now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks spritzer!_

 

Good to hear. They should really add this stuff to the instructions manual...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the seam on the earpads pointing forward and about 20-30° upwards towards the temples. The arc assembly slants about 30° forward so it rests above my forehead and not on top of my head._

 

Exactly the same here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Tried all (most) other position, but this one give me the best fit and sound quality.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just joined the stax club with recent acquistion of LNS and T1s. What is a good CD source to go with it with a budget of about $1500? Would the LNS be better off with a solid state or tube CD player?_

 


 I've had my eye on the Cambridge audio 840c, and I'd look there.


----------



## ericj

Well, I just agreed to buy an SRD-X from some guy in Ft. Collins CO. 

 I've always thought this was a curious little box. Am i correct in understanding that it is truly an SRD - a transformer box rather than an amp? 

 I'm curious how well it pairs with the various DIY amps I've built for dynamic headphones. And, well, now i get to find out. or in a week or so anyway.


----------



## spritzer

It's an amp coupled with transformers. I never spent any time studying the circuit though.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's an amp coupled with transformers. I never spent any time studying the circuit though._

 

Curious. 

 Must weigh a bit with six C-cells in it for portable use. I'll have to see how the SR-5 does with it at work or something.


----------



## spritzer

I never used any of mine with batteries but I believe it takes 8 C-cells on top of the transformers (literally) so weight is an issue.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never used any of mine with batteries but I believe it takes 8 C-cells on top of the transformers (literally) so weight is an issue._

 

I use my SRD-XPro on batteries sometimes, basically because it gives me a wider range of ESP options than the far more portable SuperFatCat SR-001 Mk2 system (and the SR-001 Mk2 itself sounds better out of the SRD-XPro IMHO).

 So I think the weight issue is worth it, but only for local listening where a power supply is unavailable (e.g. can go for a stroll with a backpack to some nice bushland areas, unpack a nice portable Stax rig and listen to outstanding ESP sounds in idyllic surroundings 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).


----------



## Oublie

Hi folks,

 Well about a week ago i picked up an old SRM1 MKII (dual normal bias) thinking that it would be a big improvement over my self biasing srd7 mkII (pro and normal) with my NAD 3020b amp. How wrong was i! I was under the impression that a full electrostatic headphone amp even though an older basic model (bought cheap) would floor the srd. The reason i thought this was i was under the assumption that the srd's were the poor man's route to headphone heaven and that the full amps were designed to give a better sound.

 My issues with it are as follows.

 1. the dynamics are lacking i.e. the sound seem more dull and lifeless and I enjoy the sound from the srd7 much more than the srm1 also bass is a tighter and full on the srd7.

 2. volume needs to be at 12o'clock in order to listen at a comfortable level.

 3. i measured the bias voltage on the sockets and it was around 200v which to me seems a bit on the low side as it should be 240v

 do I just have a unit that is at the end of it's life or are the srm1's not particularly good?


----------



## spritzer

The budget amps trade dynamics for detail and extra resolution so you simply just prefer the transformer route. The volume depends on the source so a setting of 5 or even more isn't surprising. 

 Did you measure the bias before the bleed resistor? 200v was the old standard so it isn't out of spec but if you measures the bias at the plug then you completed the circuit and the resistor did its job.


----------



## Oublie

Hi Spritzer - I measured at the socket which may be the reason for the low voltage. As for dynamics verses detail etc i'm getting more detail through the srd or maybe i just have a lucky budget setup. I was hoping for so much more and planned to sell the normal amp and the transformer but looks like they will be staying for another while. When buying this kind of gear obviously I'm buying completely blind so it's always a gamble. My concern would be that if I ever had enough cash for a set of O2's and a 727 that the 727 or 007t would have the same sort of problem. Could the problem with the srm1 be recified?


----------



## spritzer

The 007t and 727 are more powerful then the SRM-1 but then 007 ups the ante so to speak by needing a lot more power then the Lambdas. That's the reason why we invest so much in after market amps.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never used any of mine with batteries but I believe it takes 8 C-cells on top of the transformers (literally) so weight is an issue._

 

I think the girth of this box is finally starting to settle in. 

 It's not far off in size from an SRD-7, is it?


----------



## spritzer

Very similar though a bit longer and not as tall.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi folks,

 Well about a week ago i picked up an old SRM1 MKII (dual normal bias) thinking that it would be a big improvement over my self biasing srd7 mkII (pro and normal) with my NAD 3020b amp. How wrong was i! I was under the impression that a full electrostatic headphone amp even though an older basic model (bought cheap) would floor the srd. The reason i thought this was i was under the assumption that the srd's were the poor man's route to headphone heaven and that the full amps were designed to give a better sound.

 My issues with it are as follows.

 1. the dynamics are lacking i.e. the sound seem more dull and lifeless and I enjoy the sound from the srd7 much more than the srm1 also bass is a tighter and full on the srd7.

 2. volume needs to be at 12o'clock in order to listen at a comfortable level.

 3. i measured the bias voltage on the sockets and it was around 200v which to me seems a bit on the low side as it should be 240v

 do I just have a unit that is at the end of it's life or are the srm1's not particularly good?_

 

In my case, my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro gives the SR-Lambda and SR-5 more space and ambience and detail and transparency, at the expense of dynamics or slam, but bass seems just as good with both. I prefer the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro myself.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi folks,

 Well about a week ago i picked up an old SRM1 MKII (dual normal bias) thinking that it would be a big improvement over my self biasing srd7 mkII (pro and normal) with my NAD 3020b amp. How wrong was i! I was under the impression that a full electrostatic headphone amp even though an older basic model (bought cheap) would floor the srd. The reason i thought this was i was under the assumption that the srd's were the poor man's route to headphone heaven and that the full amps were designed to give a better sound.

 My issues with it are as follows.

 1. the dynamics are lacking i.e. the sound seem more dull and lifeless and I enjoy the sound from the srd7 much more than the srm1 also bass is a tighter and full on the srd7.

 2. volume needs to be at 12o'clock in order to listen at a comfortable level.

 3. i measured the bias voltage on the sockets and it was around 200v which to me seems a bit on the low side as it should be 240v

 do I just have a unit that is at the end of it's life or are the srm1's not particularly good?_

 

What phones are you running? The electret or the lambda?

 The electret do not use the bias of either the SRD7 or the amp. I guess they could sound different on the transformer or the amp but I wouldn't think that using an amp to run an electret is a good way to assess the capabilities of the amp. I don't feel that any of the electrets are as good as comparable biased phones (i.e. true electrostatics) All of the electrets came with transformers so possibly they need the extra oomph a transformer set-up can provide in order to sound good. 

 If you are talking about the lambdas, you might want to look into a good grade power cord for the amp. Even a modest upgrade can make these older and lower powered amps sound better.


----------



## Faust2D

I prefer the SRM-1Mk2 Pro to my SRD-7SB adapter with both SR-Gammas, SR-Lambdas and SR-Sigmas. I think the sound is more detailed and even the bass is better with SRM-1Mk2Pro. I have several good amps that I tried with SRD-7SB and with all of them there is a certain distortion and coloration to the sound, although it adds to the oomph I feel it pollutes the overall sound. The only headphone that I liked better with SRD-7SB was SR-X MkIII.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my case, my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro gives the SR-Lambda and SR-5 more space and ambience and detail and transparency, at the expense of dynamics or slam, but bass seems just as good with both. I prefer the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro myself._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I prefer the SRM-1Mk2 Pro to my SRD-7SB adapter with both SR-Gammas, SR-Lambdas and SR-Sigmas. I think the sound is more detailed and even the bass is better with SRM-1Mk2Pro. I have several good amps that I tried with SRD-7SB and with all of them there is a certain distortion and coloration to the sound, although it adds to the oomph I feel it pollutes the overall sound. The only headphone that I liked better with SRD-7SB was SR-X MkIII._

 

It looks like we are both in agreement SRM-1 Mk2 Pro driving normal bias phones is better than normal bias transformer, which means maybe something is wrong with his SRM-1 Mk2 normal? I would think it should have 230v not 200v bias.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would think it should have 230v not 200v bias._

 

He measured at the socket so the reading should be off. By grounding the bias pin he completed a circuit which is supposed to be an open one so the bleed resistor drops the voltage.


----------



## Oublie

I must be odd or something! I have a feeling the srm may have a fault i just can't rate the srm higher than my srd setup. I've listened to both for about 4hours using my lambdas and the srm's just seem more 'vague', less punchy and the detail in Jack Johnson's guitar work just doesn't seem as accurate.

 Trust me I would be very happy if i could get rid of the srd and the amp and stick with the srm but i prefer sound over ergonomics. I haven't cleaned the rca contacts and haven't looked inside the amp yet but i may take it apart later this week and give it a good clean i'll also try a different set of interconnects and clean the headphone sockets to see if it makes a difference. One thing i have notices is that it gets quite toasts is this normal?


----------



## John Buchanan

Certainly the SRM1 Mk2 Pro runs hot - it is a Class A amp. I presume the the SRM 1 Mk 2 non-pro would also run hot.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Oublie...hang on to that srd7 mk2 +NAD combo if it is sounding good. They just may have that synergy that many srd7 pro and mk2 owners are looking for. 
 The only normal bias stax i have is the SR Sigma and it sounded best not from the srm1mk2 pro but from the srd7 mk2 currently combined with a Teac reference A H500 integrated. the srd's commonly add deeper bass and dynamics with the "loss" of upper mid and treble detail( the previous carver no exception)...so I have been going thru a few amps to find one that "added" this upper range and forwardness to my liking, and specifically for the Sigma. The srm1 runs the Lambda pro/303 very good...when I want that sound. Each one brought with it the above characteristics...until I tried out the Teac. The best that I have heard out of the Sigma...the bass is dynamic, excellent Sigma soundstage and a clearing up of the upper midrange. Still not as forward and trebly as I would want but much more enjoyable. And a big plus was that the SR 007 sounded very good also...not to the 717 level but...maybe 75-80% there...real difficult to quantify, but definitely better than the 007+srm1mk2pro combo, which I happen to think sounds very decent.
 Now I do not have a non pro srm1mk2 and never heard one...so your unit could be off some...but do not get rid of your srd 7mk2...unless of course you let me know first cause I could always use anothe
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





r...these are getting difficult to get. One agon lasted minutes I think!
 Dang now I may have to hunt down a NAD...what was that model number?


----------



## Sherwood

My SRD-6SB sounds delightful through my NAD 320BEE, but I've not yet had the chance for an extended comparison with a dedicated Stax amp. Hopefully Larry and I can get together soon to do just that.

 I narrowly missed a 006t ad on here just yesterday, so I was hopeful...


----------



## Oublie

Glad I'm not alone.

 The NAD may colour the sound i'm hearing but in a good way. I run it using a zero dac as both the dac and preamp connected to the 3020b power amp section directly. I bypass both the preamp and the onboard high and low filters on the amp so in audio terms there is no obvious high or low end roll off. The Detail is still there in the mids possibly because there is no filtering. I tested the nad preamp against the zero's pre using Rightmark audio analyiser and the Zero's won the numbers game so I think its a pretty decent setup considering the low cost. Based on what i've read and experienced with the pro lambda's and the newer stax amps I dont think i'll be trying anything new until I'm buying a set of o2's which may be sooner than i though it would be.

 Here are a few links about the NAD if anyone is interested.

NAD 3120 Upgrade by Fidele Audio [English]
diyAudio Forums - NAD 3020 amp upgrades? - Page 1


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRD-6SB sounds delightful through my NAD 320BEE, but I've not yet had the chance for an extended comparison with a dedicated Stax amp. Hopefully Larry and I can get together soon to do just that.

 I narrowly missed a 006t ad on here just yesterday, so I was hopeful..._

 

My maxed Woo GES with pro and normal boas jacks will ship to me tomorrow, after the 12BZ7 tubes arrive today (although I already have a quad of 12BZ7 tubes and offered to accept the amp without the tubes if I can get a credit for them).

 So, sounds like we'll be able to compare Woo GES Prototype and Maxed, SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, your SRM-T1s if you bought it, and SRD-7SB and SRD-7 Pro with Nuforce or Travagans speaker amp. I will only have the GES prototype for a couple of days after the new one arrives next week, so if you want to compare with both of them be ready for late next week?


----------



## Sherwood

Absolutely, I'll plan on it.

 I did pick up the SRM-T1, and it should be here by late this week or early next.

 I'll bring my SRD-6SB down for kicks, too. There will be at least three pair of normal bias phones there, so we might have a chance to compare it to the SRD-7


----------



## ericj

I'm curious what HeadphoneAddict's impression of the SRD-X is. I'm expecting to receive mine on saturday or maybe monday.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Wished I lived closer to the Denver area!!! My son's going to DU but he's coming down here this WE and then back by end of NOv....so the wife doesn't feel like a fix would be needed till sometime next year...


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad I'm not alone.

 The NAD may colour the sound i'm hearing but in a good way. I run it using a zero dac as both the dac and preamp connected to the 3020b power amp section directly. I bypass both the preamp and the onboard high and low filters on the amp so in audio terms there is no obvious high or low end roll off. The Detail is still there in the mids possibly because there is no filtering. I tested the nad preamp against the zero's pre using Rightmark audio analyiser and the Zero's won the numbers game so I think its a pretty decent setup considering the low cost. Based on what i've read and experienced with the pro lambda's and the newer stax amps I dont think i'll be trying anything new until I'm buying a set of o2's which may be sooner than i though it would be.

 Here are a few links about the NAD if anyone is interested.

NAD 3120 Upgrade by Fidele Audio [English]
diyAudio Forums - NAD 3020 amp upgrades? - Page 1_

 

Mmm, I've heard exactly the same combo with my SR-5s (NAD 3020 plus the tranny box you're using 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) and it didn't impress me much - the NAD wasn't in very good condition though, according to its owner. Are you using a stepdown transformer with the SRM-1mk2? The SRM-1mk2 I had improved a lot with the stepdown out of the way.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious what HeadphoneAddict's impression of the SRD-X is. I'm expecting to receive mine on saturday or maybe monday._

 

In post #8194 in regards to SRD-7SB I said "In my case, my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro gives the SR-Lambda and SR-5 more space and ambience and detail and transparency, at the expense of dynamics or slam, but bass seems just as good with both. I prefer the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro myself."

 Now, take that comment and add that the SRD-X has more bass kick with SR-Lambda than the SRD-7SB with Travagans Red 5watt speaker amp. The differences with any of these (SRM-1, SRD-X, SRD-7SB) is not huge, but it is detectable although it does not detract from the enjoyment.

 Also, my SRD-X and SR-Lambda was my first "Stat Rig" which I bought from Plaidplatypus during the great head-fi crash of 2007 for a sickeningly good price of $230 shipped (my second pair of SR-Lambda cost that much without any energizer). Anyways, I was quite impressed with it and posted that driving the SRD-X via headphone out of my DarkVoice 336i was still better than my HD600 with moon black dragon or APS V3 cable out of the 336i. 

 I think the SRD-X is a little dry sounding right out of the iMod LOD or CD player, but put some tubes between the source and SRD-X and it is much better. My son and I experimented and found the TTVJ portable Millett hybrid headphone out is excellent for feeding the SRD-X for portable use. This son of mine also made me buy him an SRD-X from Spritzer to go with the SR-Lambda I got from Fitz.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mmm, I've heard exactly the same combo with my SR-5s (NAD 3020 plus the tranny box you're using 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and it didn't impress me much - the NAD wasn't in very good condition though, according to its owner. Are you using a stepdown transformer with the SRM-1mk2? The SRM-1mk2 I had improved a lot with the stepdown out of the way._

 

Hi Tachi 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The srm1 mk2 is a uk version so no transformer needed however, it is an old one with twin normal bias sockets. From what i can see the NAD i have is in decent condition and it just sounds right. On normal dynamic headphones i prefer the sound from its headphone output jack to that of the zero dac/headphone amp.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the SRD-X is a little dry sounding right out of the iMod LOD or CD player, but put some tubes between the source and SRD-X and it is much better. My son and I experimented and found the TTVJ portable Millett hybrid headphone out is excellent for feeding the SRD-X for portable use. This son of mine also made me buy him an SRD-X from Spritzer to go with the SR-Lambda I got from Fitz._

 

That's good to hear. My tentative plan is to plug the SRD-X into my Bijou all-tube streamlined futterman amp. 

 I'm also pretty curious how it actually works, and i may re-cap the thing if i ever get into the guts to try and understand it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

So, I bought a pair of SR-5 on sale on eBay on the 20th, described as "like new, good condition" but no other description. I wrote to the seller prior to bidding and he sent me the following response:

 "#1=Black with gold trim.
 #2=SRD6 energizer
 #3=Eneregizer does not plug 
 into the wall
 #4=Cloth covered round cord

 After his reply I go ahead and bid, expecting it's an SR-5NB gold edition with SRD-6SB. I wanted the SRD-6DB to replace my son's SRD-5 117v, and figured it will be easier to sell my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro in the future (if I can part with it at all) if I can throw in a nice headphone with it in the deal.

 I win the auction, it ships on the 22nd and today I received a white SR-5 with silver trim (not gold edition) and the SRD-6 plugs into the wall. The seller lied to me. His response? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ebayseller* 
_When you asked about the Stax, I had already packed them and went from memory as well as scould remember.
 #1, they worked perfectly when they came out of my Carver System an hour before being packed. I couldn remember whether they plugged into0 110 volts or no. As far as the color, when you asked about white or go0ld, the didn't seem white to me. They are off white so I mistakenly took that for gold.
 What are you looking for?
 mickey_

 

So, am I being unreasonable to tell the seller that he has three choices:
 (1) send me the black with gold trim SR-5 with the SRD-6SB that he said he was selling, and pay the shipping for me to return this.
 (2) refund me and pay the return shipping.
 (3) refund 50% of the $ and I keep the wrong headphones and energizer.

 They were filthy and I cleaned the plastic parts with a Mr. Clean Magic Sponge and wiped down the vinyl with a moist paper towel. Listening to them, it took about 2 minutes or more plugged into my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro for the right driver to produce full volume, after which there is no channel imbalance. I unplugged them and discharged them with a finger across the terminals and let them sit for 30 minutes. I plugged them after the rest, where it only took 10-20 seconds to fully charge up the right side. 

 They sound nice except not as much bass as my SR-5NB Gold, but much crisper than the white SR-3 that I used to own. They're very clear and sparkly and detailed with decent soundstage, and nothing sounds wrong except they have less bass than the gold edition that I love so much. Right now they remind me a bit of my AKG K240M 600 ohm monitors. I haven't tested the SRD-6 until I install banana plugs on the input cable so I can plug into my Travagans Red.

 Should I just sell them here on head-fi as someone's first stat, or fight the seller over this scam which means possibly returning them, or dealing with paypal dispute? Where I don't know if I will win is that the description was given by eBay private message from the seller to me, but wasn't in the auction.


----------



## Sherwood

Well, Larry, for the sake of practicality I would say that your options #1 and #3 are not likely to happen, though they do seem fair.

 Since your bid was based on what has now been proven false information, I suggest you demand a refund and for him to pay return shipping. The onus falls on him to correctly identify the item before you bid. Whether it was by PM or by description, it's still logged through EBay so you shouldn't have a problem there.

 I would imagine he'll not be thrilled about the return, but he'll have to either accept it or submit to the bureaucratic leviathan that is ebay customer support.


----------



## Faust2D

I have a pair of RCA cleartop 6FQ7 tubes that I was thinking of pulling out a preamp and putting into my T1S. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that RCAs don't sound that nice with Stax amps. I currently have Sylvania tubes in T1S that sound very nice. Before I go through all of the biasing and tube swapping I wanted to know what the take was on RCAs.

 Do we also have consensus that Toshiba and other Japanese made tubes like Matsu****a sound best in Stax amps like T1S?


----------



## spritzer

The RCA's are ok but I prefer the Japanese tubes in every way.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, Larry, for the sake of practicality I would say that your options #1 and #3 are not likely to happen, though they do seem fair.

 Since your bid was based on what has now been proven false information, I suggest you demand a refund and for him to pay return shipping. The onus falls on him to correctly identify the item before you bid. Whether it was by PM or by description, it's still logged through EBay so you shouldn't have a problem there.

 I would imagine he'll not be thrilled about the return, but he'll have to either accept it or submit to the bureaucratic leviathan that is ebay customer support._

 

Our recent email exchange:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crooked eBay seller* 
_I don't know about all the technical data that you're throwing at me, but you got one heck of a deal on a Stax that works perfectly.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* 
This item is not as you described. Via eBay private message system you told me the headphone was "black with gold trim" but it is "white with silver trim" - the item you sent me is an entirely different model than you represented it to be, and the two do not have the same internal parts nor do they sound the same. 

 Your eBay private message reply also clearly said the SRD-6 energizer does not need to be plugged into the wall, which told me it is an SRD-6 SB (self Biasing) model. But the one you sent me is the wrong model and it does need to plugged into the wall. 

 That makes you 100% wrong in what you represented this headphone system to be. The resolution to this problem is you either (1) refund me for the whole item + refund me another $10 for me to ship the "wrong item" back. Or (2) you can send me a partial refund of $40 and I will keep this incorrect item, and leave you positive feedback for "fixing the problem". If you choose neither option, I will escalate this to a PayPal claim, and I have the documentation to prove my case. Larry

 

_

 

I sent this as a Paypal dispute, since he ignored my first two requests for full or partial refund, and I have 21 days to escalate it. I do not like the seller's attitude that he can sell me one thing and ship me another, and expect me to be happy with it. I told him in an email it was like selling me a Camaro Z28 with dual exhaust and delivering a Camaro with 6-banger instead.

 If anyone wants to buy the SR-5/SRD-6 rig for $112 + actual shipping costs, and he refuses to refund me, Let me know (as long as you don't mind it taking 3 minutes for the right driver to charge up). I might just sell it to you and not escalate the claim. Or I may be able to sell the SR-5 with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro instead of the SRD-6, for $550 total shipped. I really like the SRM-1 and have been reluctant to let it go, but my Woo GES Maxed with Pro and Normal bias jacks just shipped to me yesterday...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The RCA's are ok but I prefer the Japanese tubes in every way._

 

What about Sylvania?


----------



## Sherwood

Yikes, PayPal dispute is rough. I was really hoping this guy was just mistaken, but it seems he was in fact a crook. 

 PayPal disputes work well in this instance, though (or as well as they can work) because you have some leverage. Physical products were delivered but disputed, and everything has a record. You might want to point out the channel imbalance, though, if it comes to it. No need to mention that it fixes itself after a certain period of time.


----------



## ericj

On a more positive note, my SRD-X arrived. 

 Running it on batteries for the moment - no 12v supply included, though I'm sure I've got half a dozen that will work. 

 Seems ok so far, though i've only tried the SR-5. 

 LED does not light up, which was initially a bit alarming. Does it only light up with external DC or is it more likely just plain dead?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about Sylvania? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I tried them a few years back but I don't remember any details.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On a more positive note, my SRD-X arrived. 

 Running it on batteries for the moment - no 12v supply included, though I'm sure I've got half a dozen that will work. 

 Seems ok so far, though i've only tried the SR-5. 

 LED does not light up, which was initially a bit alarming. Does it only light up with external DC or is it more likely just plain dead?_

 

I just looked and my SRD-X LED lights up, even with no AC power or headphones plugged in. While it was on I tried the SR-5 with the SRD-X, and they definitely have more bass punch with it. I'll have to try the SR-5 with the Nuforce Icon and SRD-6 or SRD-7SB that I have laying around later.


----------



## ericj

Just popped open the SRD-X to have a look. It's a pair of Toshiba TA7222AP 5.8w chip amps driving a pair of transformers. 

 And the LED is actually just busted off inside, but is very easy to replace.


----------



## ericj

Oh, fwiw, the front panel led is just a normal led with a thin breakable stem poking through the front panel. On mine, the LED had broken off of it's stem bit and was just dangling inside. 

 As luck would have it, I have three similar LEDs with stems the same diameter, and the LED in the SRD-X is socketed. So i just pushed out the old and pushed in the new. I believe that radioshack may include one of these in one of their LED assortments, though i may have gotten mine from a surplus dealer. 

 And here's the annoying part: You can disassemble the SRD-X easily without removing the volume knob. Reassembly is a bit trickier without removing it. And it's a splined shaft. Edit: And it's glued on.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The latest round with eBay seller: PS: DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH "fairviewmick" on eBay. He seems quite pleased to have scammed me into bidding on his SR-5. The phones don't sound bad, but it is the principle of the whole deal, all I ask is that he be fair and honest.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lying eBay seller* 
_Read my original ad. I staes the model number and when you asked about the Staz, I gave you the exact model number
 Your Bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* 
There are three reasons why eBay/paypal will side with me. You told me via eBay's message system that it was "black with gold trim" and you shipped "white with silver trim", and you claimed it did not need to plug into the wall but it does, and finally you said "like new and good condition" and it has a dying right driver/channel imbalance. Any of those makes it substantially not as claimed. Larry

 

_


----------



## krmathis

HeadphoneAddict. Sad to hear run running into such problems.
 The eBay seller seem to have given you faulty information, and hence you have not received what you paid for.

 Hopefully eBay/PayPal take your side and refund your money.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict. Sad to hear run running into such problems.
 The eBay seller seem to have given you faulty information, and hence you have not received what you paid for.

 Hopefully eBay/PayPal take your side and refund your money._

 

More sillyness:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fairviewmick* 
_I have another question for you. You gave me three or four options, but before I could respond to all( I rehab every morning for a couple hours from a serious motorcycle drag race accident), you turned this over to Pay Pal with out a valid reason. This, I respoonded to via Pay Pal and I assume you'll get a copy. From the get-g you've been combative while I was trying to work out a solution.
 Mickey_

 

It seemed pretty clear from his three replies that he was not going to negotiate, so I filed the dispute. As far as I can tell he has not responded to this on paypal like he said. I again offered to accept a full refund, or to take a partial refund of $40 and I keep this. We'll see.

 I wont post any more of this until it is over, unless someone asks... Caveat Emptor is one slogan I'll have to remember.

 ON A POSITIVE NOTE: My neighbor will give me $75 for them if I don't have to return them to the seller.


----------



## ericj

More comments on the SRD-X - which is being fed by my Bijou headphone amp, which is just 6n1p's and 6n6p's. 

 High end it aint. This is probably the lowest-end of all stax amps. However, it aint bad either. 

 What it boils down to is, this thing is basically an srd-6 driven by a pair of car radio chips. Considering that, it works surprisingly well. 

 At least, the transformers are roughly the same size as those found in the 6 and the 4 - the windings may be different. Or not. I haven't measured them. 

 I suspect that it can be directly driven by a line-level output, but i'm not certain of that. 

 like HPA says it's a little dry, but it's got pretty fair punch and dynamics to it as well.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seemed pretty clear from his three replies that he was not going to negotiate, so I filed the dispute. As far as I can tell he has not responded to this on paypal like he said. I again offered to accept a full refund, or to take a partial refund of $40 and I keep this. We'll see._

 


 I never like to attribute to malice what can more easily be attributed to sloth, so, here's a alternate theory: 

 He's never listened to them and doesn't know if they work. 

 He got 'em from someone else who said they worked. Maybe even already boxed up. Not checking them out for himself (or, hey, photographing them) was stupid of him. 

 When you asked about the color, they probably really were already boxed up. 

 So, like a moron, he just ran a google image search. What's interesting here is that if you search for "stax SR-5" you get a bunch of 1st gen SR-5's. If you search for "stax SR5" the first image that looks like a headphone is an SR-5 Gold. And so is the second one. 

 Maybe he searched regular google and found a thread or post here describing an SR-5 NB and didn't look any further. 

 I'll wager that there are more fools than villains in the world. 

 Which doesn't mean that he shouldn't accept it back. And he's certainly being obstructionist about that. It's a hassle, but sometimes when you're stupid, you cause yourself excess hassle.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never like to attribute to malice what can more easily be attributed to sloth, so, here's a alternate theory: 

 He's never listened to them and doesn't know if they work. 

 He got 'em from someone else who said they worked. Maybe even already boxed up. Not checking them out for himself (or, hey, photographing them) was stupid of him. 

 When you asked about the color, they probably really were already boxed up. 

 So, like a moron, he just ran a google image search. What's interesting here is that if you search for "stax SR-5" you get a bunch of 1st gen SR-5's. If you search for "stax SR5" the first image that looks like a headphone is an SR-5 Gold. And so is the second one. 

 Maybe he searched regular google and found a thread or post here describing an SR-5 NB and didn't look any further. 

 I'll wager that there are more fools than villains in the world. 

 Which doesn't mean that he shouldn't accept it back. And he's certainly being obstructionist about that. It's a hassle, but sometimes when you're stupid, you cause yourself excess hassle._

 

Nope. Be said they were "working fine in his Carver system until an hour before he boxed them up".


----------



## ktm

Here in Dallas, there's hoards of people buying up auction
 and garage sale finds for EBAY re-sale. Craig'slist is also full of
 bargain hunters looking for EBAY material. A little research will 
 show who's selling their prized headphones, and who's re-selling
 whatever he finds without knowledge or testing. 
 In other words, buy here or Audiogon. EBAY is risky, so don't
 overbid. I've bid on hundreds of EBAY items, and only won a couple
 of things because I won't risk much money on stuff from strangers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I know this will sound crazy, but I'm all worked up over a $100 auction with $12 shipping because the guy lied to me, not because I didn't get a deal. I'd say $100 is a good price for SR-5/SRD-6 that sounds good after a 3 minute charge up, and I did get them nice and clean and shiny with a bit of hard work. The SRD-6 driven by Travagans Red 5 watt amp sounds nice with them.

 It's the principle of the mater that has me upset, it's about not getting what he said I was bidding on - and then having him act like if he didn't state it in the auction itself then I have no right to expect him to deliver anything he promised via eBay messaging service.


----------



## krmathis

Someone interested in a Stax SRM-T2 and SR-Ω?
 Then you may want to check out this auction on Yahoo! Japan... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Bid start at 525,000 yen, or $4,950 in a more familiar currency.

Yahoo!¥ª¡¼¥¯¥·¥ç¥ó - STAX SRM-T2 ¤È SR-¦¸ ¥¤¥ä¡¼¥¹¥Ô¡¼¥«¡¼


----------



## antonyfirst

If I were rich, I'd jump on this.


----------



## Sherwood

Are there 3rd party services that provide shipping for non-japanese speakers buying obscure Japanese headphones (or other goods) from yahoo Japan?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone interested in a Stax SRM-T2 and SR-Ω?
 Then you may want to check out this auction on Yahoo! Japan... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Bid start at 525,000 yen, or $4,950 in a more familiar currency._

 

Saw that, a rarity that probably NEVER reappear again. But its price is way beyond me. Hope that no one bids and it gets relisted at a more sane price.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there 3rd party services that provide shipping for non-japanese speakers buying obscure Japanese headphones (or other goods) from yahoo Japan?_

 

Indeed!
 I know of a couple, and I am sure there are more...
 * http://www.rinkya.com
 * http://www.kuboten.com


----------



## 2deadeyes

Looks like someone is already using the services of Kuboten on this


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like someone is already using the services of Kuboten on this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Stop looking at me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Time to sell off some gear to make it hurt a bit less.


----------



## Sherwood

If you truly are springing for it, Birgir, congratulations. That's an astonishing setup.

 I hope you get the chance to compare the ES-1 to the T2 at some point...


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stop looking at me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Time to sell off some gear to make it hurt a bit less._

 

*[size=large]DO IT! GET IT! Live up to your Stax God reputation. [/size]*

 No pressure man.


----------



## Sherwood

Also, thanks for the links KRMathis.

 Or, in the spirit of the thing, "Please acknowledging the appreciation."

 They're extremely helpful.


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stop looking at me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Time to sell off some gear to make it hurt a bit less._

 

Hahahaha!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you truly are springing for it, Birgir, congratulations. That's an astonishing setup.

 I hope you get the chance to compare the ES-1 to the T2 at some point... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If I do win it then the SRM-T2 secret will be finally unlocked by retracing the amp so it can be built by anybody capable of doing so. It's similar to the BH but certainly not the same. 

 The ES-1 is well under way with the chassis inbound and I got a fresh delivery of transistors for the PSU on Friday. I need to order some tubes, transformers and other smaller items but with both chassis here I can start to drill holes and start wiring it up. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[size=large]DO IT! GET IT! Live up to your Stax God reputation. [/size]*

 No pressure man. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 I'm not going into some bidding war but I'd really like to see what old Stax could do.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you truly are springing for it, Birgir, congratulations. That's an astonishing setup.

 I hope you get the chance to compare the ES-1 to the T2 at some point... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd be more interested in a comparison between the T2 and the BHSE. But congrats Birgir on taking the leap.


----------



## krmathis

Birgir. Best of luck with the auction. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You have truly deserved an SRM-T2, but a third SR-Omega is over the top..


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed!
 I know of a couple, and I am sure there are more...
 * Rinkya - Japan Auction & Shopping Service - Japanese, Anime, Car Parts, Dolls, Robots, & Much More
 * kuboTEN - Japanese Auction and Shopping Deputy & Worldwide Shipping Service_

 


 Any clues on how to bid with a full translation?


----------



## randerson3024

DOH!!!!!!!!!

 I just figured it out and placed my bid. I guess the odds are stacked against me to win!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any clues on how to bid with a full translation?_

 

No idea really. 
 But I know you can use Google Translate to translate a specific page from Japanese to English (or other language of preference).


----------



## randerson3024

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No idea really. 
 But I know you can use Google Translate to translate a specific page from Japanese to English (or other language of preference)._

 


 Thanks - I was finally able to figure it out. I have no idea what the value is, so I am certain I will be out bid.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir. Best of luck with the auction. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You have truly deserved an SRM-T2, but a third SR-Omega is over the top.._

 

I would probably sell the SR-Omega once I'd given it a thorough refurbishment. I'm way past this whole headphone hoarding game. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm more interested in redrawing the T2 schematic and finding out why they burn out the transformers and burst into flames with an alarming regularity. The amp was likely rushed into production so they messed up something. I do know that the transformers are underspecified for the job or rather they are right on the edge. Not a good thing to do on a statement piece meant to last a long time...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stop looking at me... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Time to sell off some gear to make it hurt a bit less._

 

Don't forget you're saving the SR-007 hybrids for me!


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would probably sell the SR-Omega once I'd given it a thorough refurbishment. I'm way past this whole headphone hoarding game. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm more interested in redrawing the T2 schematic and finding out why they burn out the transformers and burst into flames with an alarming regularity. The amp was likely rushed into production so they messed up something. I do know that the transformers are underspecified for the job or rather they are right on the edge. Not a good thing to do on a statement piece meant to last a long time... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hero.


----------



## ericj

fwiw i did try my srd-x directly out of my DAP's line-out, and it does work, but sounds basically like, well, my dap. 

 So, here's my thoughts on the sonic qualities of the SRD-X: It doesn't add much positive influence aside from being able to plug into anything and run electrostatic earspeakers. The bass has some good punch to it.

 So, while not necessary for the purposes of amplification, plugging it into something that has a positive influence on the sound - like a good tube preamp or headphone amp - makes it much more nice to use. 

 Note that I'm not saying it's source dependent. I think you could plug it into a TOTL dac and it would still just sound dry with some good bass punch.

 The SRD-X isn't fast enough or clean enough to take advantage of a top-quality source. But it's also not slow enough or crappy enough to screw up an audio signal that is reasonably good.


----------



## Sherwood

So is it a net gain, Eric? Glad you sprung for it?

 It seems like a possible alternative to a more traditional amplifier for someone without an existing speaker amp in their setup.

 That is, if they can find/afford one.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is it a net gain, Eric? Glad you sprung for it?_

 

Plugged into the Bijou tube headphone amp, it sounds quite lively and pleasant. And it's pretty convenient in that position - moreso than trying to rig a transformer box to the relatively crappy sony HT receiver that is also in the bedroom. 

 My other option there - that i was seriously considering - was using the bijou as a preamp for a Kenwood power amp i picked up, plus an SRD-7. I might still do that and re-sell the SRD-X at some point. 

 So, yeah, I'm glad I've got it. 

 It's also good proof-of-concept for my plans to build a 'stat transformer box into the same enclosure as my M^3 headphone amp - which, maxed out, is more powerful than the car radio chips in the SRD-X. 

 The sticky wicket in that plan, though, is still what the step-up ratio of the transformers needs to be. That, and I've managed to destroy at least one of my Koss transformers. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems like a possible alternative to a more traditional amplifier for someone without an existing speaker amp in their setup.

 That is, if they can find/afford one._

 

Yes - I would recommend it to anyone on a low budget who wants to try 'stats, but has no speaker amp. Especially if they already have a dynamic headphone amp that they like. 

 If they can find one, and if the price is right. The $50 i paid is probably the right ballpark.


----------



## Percival

Some SR Gammas (a bit dilapidated) plus SRD6SB are on sale for £60 at a popular auction site 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I don't know whether this is a bargain or not - I post merely for the benefit of others who may wish to buy. 
 I might be tempted myself if I didn't have a lovely pair of SRX-MkIIIs and hadn't blown all my money on building my Pluto 2 speakers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_fwiw i did try my srd-x directly out of my DAP's line-out, and it does work, but sounds basically like, well, my dap. 

 So, here's my thoughts on the sonic qualities of the SRD-X: It doesn't add much positive influence aside from being able to plug into anything and run electrostatic earspeakers. The bass has some good punch to it.

 So, while not necessary for the purposes of amplification, plugging it into something that has a positive influence on the sound - like a good tube preamp or headphone amp - makes it much more nice to use. 

 Note that I'm not saying it's source dependent. I think you could plug it into a TOTL dac and it would still just sound dry with some good bass punch.

 The SRD-X isn't fast enough or clean enough to take advantage of a top-quality source. But it's also not slow enough or crappy enough to screw up an audio signal that is reasonably good._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Plugged into the Bijou tube headphone amp, it sounds quite lively and pleasant. And it's pretty convenient in that position - moreso than trying to rig a transformer box to the relatively crappy sony HT receiver that is also in the bedroom. 

 My other option there - that i was seriously considering - was using the bijou as a preamp for a Kenwood power amp i picked up, plus an SRD-7. I might still do that and re-sell the SRD-X at some point. 

 So, yeah, I'm glad I've got it. 

 It's also good proof-of-concept for my plans to build a 'stat transformer box into the same enclosure as my M^3 headphone amp - which, maxed out, is more powerful than the car radio chips in the SRD-X. 

 The sticky wicket in that plan, though, is still what the step-up ratio of the transformers needs to be. That, and I've managed to destroy at least one of my Koss transformers. 



 Yes - I would recommend it to anyone on a low budget who wants to try 'stats, but has no speaker amp. Especially if they already have a dynamic headphone amp that they like. 

 If they can find one, and if the price is right. The $50 i paid is probably the right ballpark._

 

See, I told you so. Plugged into any of my good tube headphone amps wakes up the SRD-X sound, but connected to most sources directly sounds too dry. 

 I have never compared the SRD-6 or SRD-7 with a good speaker amp vs SRD-X, but I suspect SRD-6/7 will always be better because you basically improve the quality over the "car stereo opamps". With either type of of these transformers you get "the better the amp the better the sound", but the SRD-6 can actually sound good with a very neutral SS speaker amp - the SRD-X really needs a warm tube amp to make it pleasant.


----------



## bralk

Hello

 I am considering a 117 V (US) second-hand SRM-007t. Would it be possible to convert it to 230 Volt. ?

 I can have a professional do the conversion, but he would probably need some
 schematics or guidance.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never compared the SRD-6 or SRD-7 with a good speaker amp vs SRD-X, but I suspect SRD-6/7 will always be better because you basically improve the quality over the "car stereo opamps". With either type of of these transformers you get "the better the amp the better the sound", but the SRD-6 can actually sound good with a very neutral SS speaker amp - the SRD-X really needs a warm tube amp to make it pleasant._

 

I'm not being harsh when i say that the SRD-X is powered by car radio chip amps. 

 The datasheet for the parts on the board is literally titled "5.8 W POWER AMPLIFIER" "CAR STEREO CAR RADIO AUDIO OUTPUT". 

 It's not a fantastic chip. I think Stax chose a very neutral chip for the era they built it in, but it's nothing special. 

 A talented hacker could wedge one of the better tripath class-D amps into the same space as the existing amp board. have to put the bias circuit somewhere, though.


----------



## Sherwood

Just got my SRM-T1 in the mail today. I opened 'er up, for fun, and found the biggest resistors I've ever seen. Rather dusty, but everything looked as I assumed it should.

 After the 45-minute warmup, I started listening.

 Aside from bass punch, this thing is superior to my SRD-6SB in every way. I can't say I miss the bass much at this point, but I'm still all star-eyed.

 The detail through my SR-lambda's is stunning, and my records have never sounded better. The tiny, microscopic details are all there in force. From wha I can tell, Gene was using RCA cleartops in there before, which are well-regarded but not generally thought to be optimal. I cobbled together a pair of the Japanese Raytheons so highly regarded here from Ebay, and I'll give them some time when they come in. 

 Better impressions are fothcoming, but for now all I can say is "WOW". I'm pretty thrilled with components that, at this stage, are all older than me. Funny.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello

 I am considering a 117 V (US) second-hand SRM-007t. Would it be possible to convert it to 230 Volt. ?

 I can have a professional do the conversion, but he would probably need some
 schematics or guidance.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

It should be pretty easy to do since the 120v windings are in use. The 100v units can be a pain though.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It should be pretty easy to do since the 120v windings are in use. The 100v units can be a pain though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks Birgir

 Thats also what my technician friend surmised - but good to have confirmation from an expert.

 Curious to find out the difference to my SRM-t1S when driving LNS and 404
 and to the 717 when driving 007s. 

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It should be pretty easy to do since the 120v windings are in use. The 100v units can be a pain though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My SRM-007t (and also the SRM-717) was easy to change the voltage settings. It was just a matter of changing some jumper bars inside. I have a PDF file with the instructions that I can email anyone.


----------



## spritzer

It's most often pretty easy to do either by changing jumpers or soldering wires but Stax does have an annoying practice to cut the 120v windings on the transformer on 100v models.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Birgir

 Thats also what my technician friend surmised - but good to have confirmation from an expert.

 Curious to find out the difference to my SRM-t1S when driving LNS and 404
 and to the 717 when driving 007s. 

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I used my sony DVD player as source. I found that the sound was too bright and the bass was lacking. I biased my T1s and the sound was much better, it was not as "shouty" and the bass was deeper. The sounbdstage was also much wider and I found that I could sing and follow the tunes easier. However, I was not convinced that I had paid $X for this quality. I went to audition the bluenote stibert and the koala tube. I tried them both with balanced and normal rca inputs. My, my, the sound was fantastic with the balanced inputs. In short, the source with the balanced inputs made a huge difference to the drive. It was like the LNS had come to life suddenly. Not saying that the RCA was bad, but the balance input was a clear step ahead in all departments. I believe, normal RCA output may be 2v but the balanced is double that, but I stand corrected. Yes, I will be bying the koala tuibe.


----------



## DouglasQuaid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would probably sell the SR-Omega once I'd given it a thorough refurbishment._

 

What steps would this refurbishment include?


----------



## ak40ozKevin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 As for 717 and O2, I do not own the O2 and my 717 is on its way to me._

 

Did you buy the 717 from lobstersan on audiogon? That was a good deal it looked like.

 In a couple years time when I catch up on some debt from moving and buying a TV I'd like to buy an O2 and 717.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you buy the 717 from lobstersan on audiogon? That was a good deal it looked like.

 In a couple years time when I catch up on some debt from moving and buying a TV I'd like to buy an O2 and 717._

 


 Yes, I did. Got a deal with the shipping as well. I have high hopes for the 717 and hope it will out strip my expectations.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DouglasQuaid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What steps would this refurbishment include?_

 

Stripping them down and then building 'em up again. This has to be done right though since the drivers are held in place by the housing so remove the wrong screws and you would have a nice pile of unobtainable driver parts on you desk...


----------



## DouglasQuaid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stripping them down and then building 'em up again. This has to be done right though since the drivers are held in place by the housing so remove the wrong screws and you would have a nice pile of unobtainable driver parts on you desk... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I only ask because my sr007's left driver seems to make a very faint high-frequency squeal when slowly moving my head. I've been wanting to take it apart and inspect all the cables for fraying and solder joints, but I've been too afraid I'd destroy it in the process. Are there walkthroughs or will I be forced to basically play it by-touch?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DouglasQuaid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only ask because my sr007's left driver seems to make a very faint high-frequency squeal when slowly moving my head. I've been wanting to take it apart and inspect all the cables for fraying and solder joints, but I've been too afraid I'd destroy it in the process. Are there walkthroughs or will I be forced to basically play it by-touch?_

 

The SR-Omega and SR-007 are very different designs so none of the above applies. This noise is most probably due to something (hair, dust) shorting out the bias so you would have to find and remove it. The drivers are sealed so I start at the able joint and the very thin and fragile silver ribbons that connect the drivers to the cable. No walk through I'm afraid so please be aware that one slip of the screwdriver and the driver is a paperweight.


----------



## DouglasQuaid

No available schematics or diagrams either? I also noticed that the sound can last up to 20 seconds after I shut the amp down, so it's most likely an issue with the bias connection to that driver.

 The certified repair shop has received nothing but bad press and seems to be quite pricey, so it sounds like I'll either be putting up with the noise or pulling the driver apart.

 Thanks again for the feedback.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DouglasQuaid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No available schematics or diagrams either? I also noticed that the sound can last up to 20 seconds after I shut the amp down, so it's most likely an issue with the bias connection to that driver.

 The certified repair shop has received nothing but bad press and seems to be quite pricey, so it sounds like I'll either be putting up with the noise or pulling the driver apart.

 Thanks again for the feedback._

 

Stax never releases schematics not that you would need any. These things aren't meant to be opened by anybody but Stax and for a good reason. 

 Since the sound continues even after the driver is off then you have some debris inside the driver and it has to be replaced. One of the dust covers has been breached so if you don not want to fork over for the new set of drivers (they are matched so you need two) you could open it up and try to blow on the diaphragm and stators and then reassemble and test. The particle is probably so small that you can't see it but you would also have to find the hole in the dust cover so that it doesn't happen again.


----------



## twestby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stripping them down and then building 'em up again. This has to be done right though since the drivers are held in place by the housing so remove the wrong screws and you would have a nice pile of unobtainable driver parts on you desk... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats; that's precisely what I'm looking for. Any suggestions on where to start hunting? TIA, -Tim


----------



## Don Quichotte

I am contemplating buying a SRM-1mk2 amp that is 20 years old, but I'm a bit reluctant about its age. I remember reading that the condensers in old amplifiers may start to dry up after 15 years or so. Now I'm sure the Stax amp in question is working just fine at the moment, but what can I expect for the future? Is it reasonable to expect it to last another 5, 10 or 20 years? 

 If you are not sure, a wild guess would still provide me with some indication and thus be better than not getting any answer at all.

 Thanks.


----------



## Sherwood

The only caps that dry up are pretty easily replaceable in the SRM1-MK2, even by someone who doesn't fully understand the circuit. It's really not a major problem.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Don't forget I have an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro listed for sale


----------



## Sherwood

And one with caps that are working just fine, I might add.


----------



## erikzen

Mine is 20+ years old and works perfectly.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only caps that dry up are pretty easily replaceable in the SRM1-MK2, even by someone who doesn't fully understand the circuit. It's really not a major problem._

 

Thank you and all the others for your answers. Should I presume then that these caps are also readily available?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should I presume then that these caps are also readily available?_

 

They are just basic HV snap in caps and easy to find.


----------



## progo

Finally pulled the trigger and bought a Stax 2020 basic II system. Waiting its arrival. As my current system is HD650 and Arietta, I find it very suboptimal (or at least 'feel' that way). The problem is that I haven't heard many systems. Something should tell about my situation as I find Grado SR80 somewhat equal to HD650 with the same amplifier in terms of bass, separation & co. Senns still do soundstage better. I enjoy the speed of grados so I expect I like Staxes in that way. What I have gained by searching that many seem to be comparing this very combination (Stax 2020 vs. Senn HD650). Maybe this is a common mark to try the light side. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 When I compared HD595 and HD650 back then [last fall], I chose HD650 because they sounded fuller and had more body to music. Now I'm pretty aware that staxes don't have body but I hope that the strengths make me a staxist. Soundstage, separation, details. 

 Is there anything I'd 'need' to know in order to prevent disappointments? I've read about everything about the 2020 on HF.


----------



## Sherwood

Yeah, any HV caps of the right value will suffice, as I seem to recall that those are the ones that can dry up.

 edit: looks like the guru beat me to it


----------



## krmathis

Birgir. Any news about the SRM-T2?


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I compared HD595 and HD650 back then [last fall], I chose HD650 because they sounded fuller and had more body to music. Now I'm pretty aware that staxes don't have body but I hope that the strengths make me a staxist. Soundstage, separation, details. 

 Is there anything I'd 'need' to know in order to prevent disappointments? I've read about everything about the 2020 on HF._

 

No disappointments to fear.
 Nearly every hp should give you more soundstage than Grado Flats/Bowls and Senn 6xx's (but depending on HRTFs).
 As for details and separation: IMO only e'stats, even the basic set, can show these so accurate, smooth and unstressed.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir. Any news about the SRM-T2? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I didn't win it since I'm crazy but not crazy enough to throw money at something without reason. There is no way I'd pay more for the problematic T2 then the BHSE but I'll continue to search. It's been a fun week though and I've learned a lot more about the T2 and how it was designed.


----------



## Andy M

As above, so I'm tacking on the bottom with the reply button, new here and not really a computer type. Once again apologies but have no alternative way of getting in touch.

 My problem: Recently aquired Gamma 'phones with Srd 7 mb 11 box and want to connect to an amp that requires a re-configuration of the L/S outputs to use "electrostatic loudspeakers" or anything containing a transformer; I imagine that will be the Srd 7. To re-configure, a disc is turned through 180 degrees before plugging in the loudspeaker. The amp is a Revox A78 integrated and the speaker plugs are of the, one flat blade and a pin type.

 The Revox guy says it's a Q for Stax, not that I agree since they, Stax, don't have the requirement. As far as I know the box is simply inserted between L/S leads and the Stax flylead run to the amp output.

 Since I have two L/S outputs, A & B, switchable on the A78 I have some flexibility. Does the Srd constitute an "electrostatic load" or a normal load? I could re-configure output "A" for electrostatic use and leave the box permanently switched to phones, leaving output "B" normal for L/S use only, using the A78 to switch between "A", phones and "B", speakers.

 The amp's just been rebuilt from the ground up at considerable cost and I don't want any "accidents". For those asking "why", I'm a big fan of Revox and have built up an "antiques corner" of entirely Revox kit in addition to my main digital system. Since I do a lot of recording and editing reel to reel, I fancied a pair of phones closer to that era and what better than the Stax to monitor with.

 Once more apologies for butting in with a totally unrelated post but I really need your help and advice


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't win it since I'm crazy but not crazy enough to throw money at something without reason. There is no way I'd pay more for the problematic T2 then the BHSE but I'll continue to search. It's been a fun week though and I've learned a lot more about the T2 and how it was designed._

 

I see! ...and it seems like a nice mentality. 
 At least you got to know more about its design.

 By the way. Care sharing how much it went for? Cause I can not longer find the auction.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way. Care sharing how much it went for? Cause I can not longer find the auction._

 

901.000Yen...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_901.000Yen..._

 

Ouch! Thats a lot of money for an amplifier/headphone pair with a so-so durability reputation.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch! Thats a lot of money for an amplifier/headphone pair with a so-so durability reputation._

 

Yup, beyond insane.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *the internet* 
_Many years ago, a baker's assistant called Richard the Pourer, whose job it was to pour the dough mixture in the making of sausage rolls, noted that he was running low on one of the necessary spices, he sent his apprentice to the store to buy more. 

 Unfortunately, upon arriving at the shop, the young man realized that he had forgotten the name of the ingredient. All he could do was to tell the shopkeeper that it was for Richard the Pourer, for batter for wurst._

 

My condolences on not winning that awesome $9,000 liability. Better luck next time.


----------



## Goosepond

I love it when someone happily exclaims that they just WON an auction.

 They didn't WIN anything. They were willing to pay MORE for an item than anyone else! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gene


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Sherwood! You MUST come visit sometime soon to hear the new Woo GES maxed. 

 I have about 50 hours on it so far and it sounds much better today than when I hooked it up Saturday night. Now it is very spacious and transparent vs out of the box. My 12BZ7 have about 150 hours on them from burning them in with the prototype. I am going to start doing head to head comparison with the prototype tomorrow.

 Maybe at some point I'll also try the cryotreated Mullard 12AX7 clones once the amp is fully burned in.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My condolences on not winning that awesome $9,000 liability. Better luck next time._

 

Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just drowned my sorrows by paying for the BHSE in full...


----------



## jvlgato

Is Stax cheaper to buy in Japan? I have a friend travelling there and wonder if I should ask her to buy it there for me? But cost, dollar exchange, customs etc ... complicates things. Anyone know?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jvlgato* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is Stax cheaper to buy in Japan? I have a friend travelling there and wonder if I should ask her to buy it there for me? But cost, dollar exchange, customs etc ... complicates things. Anyone know?_

 

Stax in general are noticeable cheaper in Japan than the rest of the world. How much depends on the country you compare against, exchange rates, luck with customs, ...

 I suggest you check out these dealers price on Stax gear, and compare it to the price at your local dealer.
PriceJapan.com
EIFL Export
PriceJapan.com

 As an example, I saved $1500 last year buying my Stax 4070 from Japan rather than from my local dealer.


----------



## marcus1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax in general are noticeable cheaper in Japan than the rest of the world. How much depends on the country you compare against, exchange rates, luck with customs, ...

 I suggest you check out these dealers price on Stax gear, and compare it to the price at your local dealer.
PriceJapan.com
EIFL Export
PriceJapan.com

 As an example, I saved $1500 last year buying my Stax 4070 from Japan rather than from my local dealer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was in Japan recently and Craig at kuboTEN - Japanese Auction and Shopping bought some new Stax SR-303 headphones and also some second hand Stax gear from Yahoo Auctions Japan for me. I got these delivered to my hotel before leaving Japan. 
 The service was excellent and I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again. 

 Tim


----------



## jvlgato

Very helpful, thanks! Boy, those prices really are cheaper!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax in general are noticeable cheaper in Japan than the rest of the world. How much depends on the country you compare against, exchange rates, luck with customs, ...

 I suggest you check out these dealers price on Stax gear, and compare it to the price at your local dealer.
PriceJapan.com
EIFL Export
PriceJapan.com

 As an example, I saved $1500 last year buying my Stax 4070 from Japan rather than from my local dealer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## jvlgato

Thanks, Marcus1!

 Can you comment on taxes and customs upon returning to US?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was in Japan recently and Craig at kuboTEN - Japanese Auction and Shopping bought some new Stax SR-303 headphones and also some second hand Stax gear from Yahoo Auctions Japan for me. I got these delivered to my hotel before leaving Japan. 
 The service was excellent and I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again. 

 Tim_


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jvlgato* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Marcus1!

 Can you comment on taxes and customs upon returning to US?_

 


 ... don't declare it.


----------



## jvlgato

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... don't declare it._

 


 Good point ...


----------



## Veefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *marcus1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was in Japan recently and Craig at kuboTEN - Japanese Auction and Shopping bought some new Stax SR-303 headphones and also some second hand Stax gear from Yahoo Auctions Japan for me. I got these delivered to my hotel before leaving Japan. 
 The service was excellent and I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again. 

 Tim_

 

I've also had a good experience dealing with Craig.


----------



## Victor Chew

Just spoke to Justin on the phone. He said that he will be making the blue hawaii as a permanent product that he will build from now on. I have just placed my order for it.


----------



## Sherwood

He didn't say how much, did he?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He didn't say how much, did he?_

 

I didn't ask him for the price.


----------



## Sherwood

Well, out of my range regardless, unless he started building them with jellybeans and cardboard boxes.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, out of my range regardless, unless he started building them with jellybeans and cardboard boxes._

 

Ha! Ha! Ha! If he did make them out of jelly beans and cardborad boxed, I am you will be able to afford quite a few BHs. Not so much for the sound but the taste perhaps. Ha!


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just spoke to Justin on the phone. He said that he will be making the blue hawaii as a permanent product that he will build from now on. I have just placed my order for it._

 

The BHSE? or the run of the mill BH?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jvlgato* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very helpful, thanks! Boy, those prices really are cheaper!_

 

You're most welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 For some Stax'en you can certainly save a lot of money by importing them yourself.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just spoke to Justin on the phone. He said that he will be making the blue hawaii as a permanent product that he will build from now on. I have just placed my order for it._

 

Which version of the Blue Hawaii?
 A revived version of his previous KGBH, the KGBH SE (which we have waited for since early 2007), or a totally new one...?

 Anyway, this is great news!
 Since its been one of my main griefs against his business model. Building limited edition amplifiers only, and selling them out before even showing off the end product...


----------



## Don Quichotte

Hello again. Here is another question for you Stax addict fellows: *how much does it cost to replace the 303/404 drivers in Europe?* I have asked Stax Germany about this but they didn't answer, our relationship is not so good right now for reasons I will get into later....
 Thanks a lot!


----------



## spritzer

The BH has been dropped for good and it is the BHSE that will be the regular production model, though at a higher price then the pre-release units. Justin gave me a rough estimate that I don't feel comfortable posting here but it will be a bit more expensive.


----------



## Rednamalas1

I hope you guys don't stone me to death on this one, but is mating vinyl with stax oII mk1 bad idea? I mean, due to surface noise etc - will it punish my ears on such revealing setup?

 I've been getting conflicting opinions on this... some say it's a bad idea, while some say if I clean my vinyl well enough, there shouldn't be any problem.


----------



## ericj

I've heard it said a few times that you can drive an electrostatic headphone off any old push-pull tube amp by just hooking up some high-voltage capacitors at the primaries of the output transformers and adding a bias circuit. 

 Seemed like a neat idea, but until recently i hadn't had the opportunity to come by any push-pull tube amps. The local market is sparse and the ebay market is a bit rich. 

 I may have an opportunity to buy quite cheaply a Fisher Electra console stereo with an ELL80-based push-pull amp in it, that i could potentially use for such a project, so, I have some questions. 

 Do the output transformers necessarily need to stay in the circuit? Can they be removed completely or replaced with a resistive load or something? 

 Am i grossly oversimplifying this?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The BH has been dropped for good and it is the BHSE that will be the regular production model, though at a higher price then the pre-release units. Justin gave me a rough estimate that I don't feel comfortable posting here but it will be a bit more expensive._

 

Justin said to me that it will be the BHSE that will be built for the future. It comes in 2 separate boxes - one for the amp and the other for the power supply. He said they will be exactly the same as the current 20 uints which he is still building unless he sees the necessity to make changes. Damn, the US dollar is just rocketing. If I do not bite the bullet and buy it now I could be paying quite a bit more.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rednamalas1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you guys don't stone me to death on this one, but is mating vinyl with stax oII mk1 bad idea? I mean, due to surface noise etc - will it punish my ears on such revealing setup?

 I've been getting conflicting opinions on this... some say it's a bad idea, while some say if I clean my vinyl well enough, there shouldn't be any problem._

 

Vinyl is fantastic on the O2. Once you get into the music the noise just fades away. Some headphones with a peaky high end or a tiped up top can be a problem with vinyl. The O2 does not have those problems. After listening to good vinyl it's hard to go back to digital. Take good care of your vinyl and get a VPI 16.5 record cleaning machine. It makes a huge difference.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rednamalas1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you guys don't stone me to death on this one, but is mating vinyl with stax oII mk1 bad idea? I mean, due to surface noise etc - will it punish my ears on such revealing setup?

 I've been getting conflicting opinions on this... some say it's a bad idea, while some say if I clean my vinyl well enough, there shouldn't be any problem._

 

Vinyl always has a problem with static. I hate the ticks and pops as well. At first I used all the expensive vacuum suckers and liquids to clean my records - it worked but I still prefer to use dish washing liquid. It has worked well for me so far. You may like to try it out as well. With the dish washing liquid you just have to be careful not to scratch the record when washing it. Once done quickly get a dry towel to soak up the water in the labels. Try one piece and see the results.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Vinyl always has a problem with static. I hate the ticks and pops as well. At first I used all the expensive vacuum suckers and liquids to clean my records - it worked but all kinds of sticky stuff and rubbish started forming on the records after 2 to 3 months. Fortunately all the **** could be removed. Now I just use dish washing liquid and sponge. Guess what, they do a lot better job than all the ******** machines and expensive liquids, costing me thousands of dollars, for the cleaning. They are also troublesome to use. With the dish washing liquid you just have to be careful not to scratch the record when washing it. Once done quickly get a dry towel to soak up the water in the labels. Try one piece and you will see the results._

 

I tried that 40 years ago. It doesn't work worth a ****. Although the Palmolive dish soap did make my hands softer.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello again. Here is another question for you Stax addict fellows: *how much does it cost to replace the 303/404 drivers in Europe?* I have asked Stax Germany about this but they didn't answer, our relationship is not so good right now for reasons I will get into later....
 Thanks a lot!_

 

FL-electronic HiFi can probably help you. 


 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin said to me that it will be the BHSE that will be built for the future. It comes in 2 separate boxes - one for the amp and the other for the power supply. He said they will be exactly the same as the current 20 uints which he is still building unless he sees the necessity to make changes._

 

Ok, thanks for clarifying.
 The KGBH SE sure looks really promising, so its nice to see him building more than the 10 units he first decided to build.

 Too bad its too late for me, as I have already found other ways to drive my Stax'en.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard it said a few times that you can drive an electrostatic headphone off any old push-pull tube amp by just hooking up some high-voltage capacitors at the primaries of the output transformers and adding a bias circuit. 

 Seemed like a neat idea, but until recently i hadn't had the opportunity to come by any push-pull tube amps. The local market is sparse and the ebay market is a bit rich. 

 I may have an opportunity to buy quite cheaply a Fisher Electra console stereo with an ELL80-based push-pull amp in it, that i could potentially use for such a project, so, I have some questions. 

 Do the output transformers necessarily need to stay in the circuit? Can they be removed completely or replaced with a resistive load or something? 

 Am i grossly oversimplifying this?_

 

The output trafo's need to be in the circuit since they have a CT which the B+ is connected to. Even some electrostatic amps are designed this way (MJ, The Beast) but with a push-pull choke though instead of the output transformers. You will need to capacitor couple the output and probably even create a virtual CT with some high value resistors. I've been wanting to try this for a long time but the huge shipping costs involved have held be back as there is zero vintage gear to be had here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Justin said to me that it will be the BHSE that will be built for the future. It comes in 2 separate boxes - one for the amp and the other for the power supply. He said they will be exactly the same as the current 20 uints which he is still building unless he sees the necessity to make changes. Damn, the US dollar is just rocketing. If I do not bite the bullet and buy it now I could be paying quite a bit more._

 

The amp does indeed have a separate PSU and amp unit. An upgraded PSU could be available in the future and I will most likely build my own with a design that is being drawn up.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The output trafo's need to be in the circuit since they have a CT which the B+ is connected to. Even some electrostatic amps are designed this way (MJ, The Beast) but with a push-pull choke though instead of the output transformers. You will need to capacitor couple the output and probably even create a virtual CT with some high value resistors. I've been wanting to try this for a long time but the huge shipping costs involved have held be back as there is zero vintage gear to be had here. _

 

Thanks for the explanation. 

 I had a 2nd look at the console in question and now I'm not sure I want it. It turns out to be a later Fisher unit with all-tube am/fm tuner & preamp, but a solid-state output stage. 

 I had low hopes when i saw only two output tubes on the chassy, then high hopes when i saw the ELL80 described as a "dual power pentode, intended to work as a push-pull output stage in a single tube", and now just confusion after finding the parts diagram showing Q1 through Q4. 

 there are two small transformers on one end of the amp chassy, which i took for output transformers, but now i have no clear understanding of the amplifier topology and fear it may be worthless for 'stat use except with a transformer box. Those two little trafos could be the bipolar power supply for the transistors for all i know. 

 At $25, i could always just treat it as an ironic piece of furniture, maybe integrate a pc media server in the cabinet with a 22" LCD inside the lid . . .

 FWIW it's precisely like this auction - except with the furniture still attached: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/FISHER-E-49-MULT...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## spritzer

For 25$ you could just use it for the sockets and iron if it doesn't pan out but I don't think this would be a good choice. There were a lot of more traditional amps built so something like the Dynaco70 would do just fine and is cheap... very cheap.


----------



## Victor Chew

Spritzer, you have other types of female jacks on the BHSE as well?


----------



## spritzer

Mine will have two genuine Stax 5 pin outputs which required a custom front panel. I supplied the jacks so don't bother bugging Justin about them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have no need for a either a HE90 jack or a normal bias output since I've settled on the Omegas as my weapon of choice.


----------



## edstrelow

It's odd but after a few weeks with the 007A, when I listen to other Stax like the 404 and Sigma/404, they now sound distinctly colored to me. It's like the 007A recalibrates your hearing. I don't think I have ever had similar phenomenon after another headphone purchase.

 Does anyone else get a similar phenomenon?

 The 007A brings out a great deal more timbre and micro dynamic detail (as well as some macrodynamic detail) but when you go back to the other phones, this detail is gone and replaced with a sort of gloss or coloration. 

 I am still trying to find words to describe the coloration, and it seemed that the earlier phones sounded somewhat "metalic" in the sense that there is almost a ringing sound superimposed on the music. 

 The 007A is also somewhat warmer in sound, the 404 models colder. I have heard that warmth can mean even order harmonics in the signal and cold can indicate odd order harmonics.

 Usually I would say that the 007A sounds better than the other phones but I was listening to the old Karajan Rosenkavalier the other night the overall impact wasn't as good as with the Sigma/404. Part of this was that the 007A brought out more tape hiss than the Sigma/404 which tended to mess up the "air" between instruments and voices. There was no doubt that the 007A was more accurate, but the spatial presentation of the Sigma/404 added another auditory dimension which the 007A, being a more conventional set of phones, lacked. 

 It made me wonder what a set of 007 drivers would sound like mounted in a Sigma-type enclosure.

 I must do more comparisons though to get a better feel for these differences.


----------



## Anders

I have a similar experience but with the difference that I regarded the 404 as colored from the beginning, reinforced by the tube coloration of the 007t amp that I had at first. But going from 007 even more emphasizes the coloration of other headphones. I think the 007 is very neutral and transparent and not much of a signature of its own, at least compared to other headphones. There are some flaws as somewhat lacking impact, clearly with 007t but less so with 717. It is said to have clearly better impact and control with some other non-Stax amps.

 The 404 has more punch but is colder in a way. I don't think this has anything to do with distortion and harmonics. The 404 has an upper midrange peak that give more emphasis but can be tiring. Also the frequency response is uneven with drop in the middle, a Grado like curve. Sometimes the 404 sound better - especially on old recordings because it is less detailed and more forgiving. It can also give some extra punch to old rock recordings. But at the expense of loss of microdetail, the natural tone of instruments and with the superimposition of its sound signature.

 It is not easy to find an equal to 007 - if there is one.


----------



## edstrelow

I should have mentioned I am using the 717 amp. I am not finding any lack of punch with the 007A rather I have to adjust the volume down at times so the crescendos don't blow my ears off.

 What I am getting at is not just coloration due to different frequency responses. Virtually all phones sound different from each other that way. The 007A seems to have a tonal characteristic, or rather an overtonal characteristic unlike anything else I have making the others seem to have this sort of metallic ring sound.


----------



## John Buchanan

Ed, I have the 007 Mk 1 and it is a superb phone, but I still like the LNS and the Sigma 404 for different reasons. The sheer comfort of the Sigma 404 is nearly unbeatable for my boof head - see pic - and the spacious sound is good, but I miss the very bottom end of the LNS and the 007 Mk1. Although someone criticised the vocals heard on a Sigma, I still think they can't be beat for wonderful handling of sibilants - far better than either the LNS (in particular) and slightly better than the 007. I must admit, I am liking the LNS more these days (I think you mentioned this too). One thing I am not so sure about with the Sigmas is that at relatively high volumes (much more than I usually listen to), the Sigma 404s start to sound as if they may shout a little - just on the edge of this without obviously doing so. For me, this is not often a problem except when I just wanna head bang, but it's something the LNS and the 007 Mk 1 just don't even think about doing - there is a seemingly limitless dynamic range. I guess I was lucky I got the LNS rather than the 404 - from all descriptions, it sounds like the LNS is the least bright of the two. All running from the SRM-717 (balanced all the way from the Studer to the Apogee Mini-DAC to the 717)


----------



## edstrelow

Good point about the comfort of the Sigmas. Inspite of their bulk and somewhat loose fit on the head, they are exceedingly comfortable and do not warm up the head, basically because there is a big space inside the earcups and they are not sealing. The 007A is more than a little annoying because it is hard to adjust, if it slips then you lose bass. The Sigma is foolproof by comparison.

 I can't see a problem with the Sigmas with vocals. In fact I think they are the best phone, period, for classical choral and opera aside from the lack of detail compared to the Omegas. I am mostly listening with the Sigma/404 and Sigma Pro. Possibly there is a problem with the low bias Sigma. I certainly haven't heard this but I listen to these much less.


----------



## Oublie

Hey Guys quick question. Has anyone tried an srd7 or other energiser with a gainclone type amp if so what were your impressions. Did it match with using a higher end amp or out perform the lower end srm's?

 tks.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should have mentioned I am using the 717 amp. I am not finding any lack of punch with the 007A rather I have to adjust the volume down at times so the crescendos don't blow my ears off._

 

It has been said that the 007A/007 Mk2 is easier to drive than Mk 1, I wonder how much? Also depends somewhat on the type of music, it seems you refer to classical music. Bass heavy rock etc. is harder to drive than classical music. I think that a big advantage of the 007 is that tonality it excellent and this is very important for classical music. I mean that the instruments sound natural and realistic and you hear micro-details like the movement of the bow against the strings and the airflow from a flute. Different violins and flutes also sound different.

 It is a good thing if the 007A is easier to drive because most 007 owners still have Stax amplifiers (99% ?). There may be two questions - the difference between Mk1 and Mk2 with Stax amps and the difference with the best possible amplifier.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It has been said that the 007A/007 Mk2 is easier to drive than Mk 1, I wonder how much? Also depends somewhat on the type of music, it seems you refer to classical music. Bass heavy rock etc. is harder to drive than classical music. I think that a big advantage of the 007 is that tonality it excellent and this is very important for classical music. I mean that the instruments sound natural and realistic and you hear micro-details like the movement of the bow against the strings and the airflow from a flute. Different violins and flutes also sound different.

 It is a good thing if the 007A is easier to drive because most 007 owners still have Stax amplifiers (99% ?). There may be two questions - the difference between Mk1 and Mk2 with Stax amps and the difference with the best possible amplifier._

 

With all my Stax amps (SRM-717, 007t, T1W & 1mk2 Pro) the O2 and O2mk2 are about the same to drive. If I listen to the O2 then switch to the O2mk2 I have to turn up the volume a little to match levels. If I measure them using pink noise the O2 is .5 to .75 db more efficient than the O2mk2. The measured load is the same. If there is a difference in an amps ability to drive the load it is almost un-measurable. I would expect this because the drivers and cables are the same (there is a air vent on the O2mk2 to eliminate the Stax fart). While the load is the same the sound isn’t. The O2 is the better phone. Birgir has a mod to plug the air vent which makes the O2mk2 sound more like the beloved O2.


----------



## spritzer

The Sigma frame gets "shouty" when it is pushed hard since it can't handle the extra energy that the driver is giving off as vibration. This is to be expected and is less of an issue with the Lambdas since the driver is so close to the ear and the baffle is nice and thick aluminum. 

 I went the other way around and got the SR-007 before all the other headphones so that was the standard they were measured against. The Sr-007 Mk1 is still here and the rest if gone except for the other two Omegas which will probably be buried with me in the end.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Guys quick question. Has anyone tried an srd7 or other energiser with a gainclone type amp if so what were your impressions. Did it match with using a higher end amp or out perform the lower end srm's?

 tks._

 

Look over in the Dared mp5 thread started by Elphas. Someone there mentions using a dared mp5 with a stax tranformer....which is a gainclone ss amp with a tube preamp. I just recieved Dared mp5 clone...a "sonic integrity mp5-ds"...but is essentially a Taiwan version. Still burning in so haven't tried it with my Stax set up yet. Waiting on some mullards also to roll...no sense using the inferior stock tubes.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look over in the Dared mp5 thread started by Elphas. Someone there mentions using a dared mp5 with a stax tranformer....which is a gainclone ss amp with a tube preamp. I just recieved Dared mp5 clone...a "sonic integrity mp5-ds"...but is essentially a Taiwan version. Still burning in so haven't tried it with my Stax set up yet. Waiting on some mullards also to roll...no sense using the inferior stock tubes._

 

Thanks Tako Ill go look.


----------



## yale.reinstein

I always thought it was the pad glue, but once I replaced them the crackling never went away. This would only happen with a seal if I adjusted and put pressure on it. I would push it against my head and it would begin to crackle -- sometimes it would take a while for it to finish and snap at the end. Just tried now to blow in on the other side - seemed to fix it. Fooling around a bit more it would squeak and cut out - until I put more pressure and make it snap/crack. What is this?


----------



## ludoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought it was the pad glue, but once I replaced them the crackling never went away. This would only happen with a seal if I adjusted and put pressure on it. I would push it against my head and it would begin to crackle -- sometimes it would take a while for it to finish and snap at the end. Just tried now to blow in on the other side - seemed to fix it. Fooling around a bit more it would squeak and cut out - until I put more pressure and make it snap/crack. What is this?_

 

Pressure against a loose driver membrane? The same thing happens to one of my orthos, but the crackling happens only if I compress the phones against my ears with a good seal, and stops immediately.


----------



## yale.reinstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ludoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pressure against a loose driver membrane? The same thing happens to one of my orthos, but the crackling happens only if I compress the phones against my ears with a good seal, and stops immediately._

 

Yes. Exactly, but not always immediately for me. Wondering if I can fix it without taking off my pads! Or can I ignore this safely? I just put these ones on, gah!


----------



## spritzer

There could be either a torn dustcover or some foreign particles have entered the driver and are causing it to either arc or changing the behaviour of the electrostatic field. Both are bad news indeed and not much can be done without extreme risk to the driver.


----------



## troymadison

nvm


----------



## slaikan

Hi

 Just finished building a PPA v2 for my HD595's, looking around in the garage for a hacksaw, hmm.... whats in this box?

 Stax Electrostatic Earspeakers, you can imagine my excitement, since my main loudspeakers are electrostatic hybrids and I think they could sound pretty good.

 Bad thing is that it seems like its been tinkered with before, connector on the SR-5's is missing. So I've opened the speakers up, and I have:

 Left Speaker, green, brown, black
 Right Speaker, red, blue white

 Anyone have the pinout for the 6-pin connector? I've searched on these forums, but I cant seem to find what I'm looking for.

 Also, on the SRD-5, I'd like to replace some of its components with newer components, I reckon these things haven't seen a bit of power for the last 25 years (they were made before I was around), and maybe resolder all the joints, the solder job looks pretty ugly IMO. Any DIY'ers and tweakers who've redesigned the PCB or tweaked it a bit?

 I found a manual for the SR-3 / SRD-5, but its in Japanese and I think there is some mention of valves (V1=12AX7 V2=12AU7 at the top of the schematic, but I don't see them on the actual schematic), so I'm not sure if the schematics in that manual are the right schematics, anyone have this, or can confirm, or translate from Japanese?

 Thanks a lot!


----------



## -=Germania=-

For the SRD-5 - does this help you a bit?






 I haven't checked mine out internally yet . They recently entered the stable and am still having fun just listening.

This SITE SHOULD BE HELPFUL

 *I pre-translated it through google - much easier to read in english...at least to me.


----------



## Rednamalas1

okay.. It seems that I got my source finally set...at less $ I originally planned for!

 Any idea how much KGBH (non SE) would cost?? It's not on the site..

 sorry about the noob questions


----------



## Sherwood

Though the non-SE version is perfectly stable, only the SE will be in regular production.

 I understand they run about $5000, but Justin may charge more for the full production version.


----------



## Rednamalas1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the non-SE version had some wiring issues that caused it to be unstable, so I believe the only manufactured version currently is the SE. 

 I understand they run about $5000, but Justin may charge more for the full production version._

 

ouch, and I bet SE production is backed up until the next summer olympics? 

 So if I wanted a stax rig by christmas.... it would be KGSS (that might be backed up as well?)?

 I still need to save $ for a new lappy...compromises :S


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, so far the Woo GES maxed with 200 hours has plenty of power to drive my SR-007 Mk2 (black). Too bad I didn't get them before I shipped out the Prototype GES to the Texas head-fi meet earlier today.

 The O2 Mk2 are not burned in yet, but I suspect that I'm going to have to look into that earpad spring mod to see if that helps pull back the mids a little - right now they are more forward than my APureSound re-cabled/modded ESP950. Does this change with burn-in (I recall reading needing 200 hours)?

 Very detailed, good bass, good tonality - but it needs a cut in volume in the mids with vocals, male or female. Jazz and Classical are not so bad as music with vocals. I've only had 30 minutes of ear time, but I will get down to listening more over the next couple of days.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Actually just contacted someone about buying a set of lambdas. 

 Fingers Crossed!


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the non-SE version had some wiring issues that caused it to be unstable, so I believe the only manufactured version currently is the SE. 

 I understand they run about $5000, but Justin may charge more for the full production version._

 

Only the SE is being built. Justin just replied my email saying that

 "the output jacks can be in 1 x 90HE + stax pro; or, 2 x stax pro; or 1 x stax pro + 1x stax normal bias. 

 The input jacks are 2x RCA and 1x balanced XLR. There is also 1 set of RCA loop-outs and 1 balanced XLR loop out."

 Trying to decide on the second output jack is like guessing the future for me?


----------



## Oublie

Considering the bhse is the pinnacle of electrostatic amps atm, i'm very surprised that it doesnt come configured for every common connection i.e. stax normal and pro and also senn and koss. If i was in the position to build or purchase the best electrostatic amp there apparently is i would consider myself short changed if these weren't included especially since the cost to do this would be minor compared to the cost of the amp.

 All your really looking at is a 240, 580 and 620 (i think) bias voltage with the correct connector on the front. Failing this at least include a stax to sennheiser and stax to koss adaptor.


----------



## progo

Ahh, got a 2020 system and have to say, it's very nice indeed. My experience on headphones are very limited -- there's only Grado SR80 and Sennheiser HD650 I really, really know somehow. Both amped by Arietta and the source's Juli@. 

 Now, what are those claims Staxes don't have bass? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 To me, there's enough of it -- Pink Floyd's _One of These Days_ (on the MFSL version of the Meddle) had actually so much bass I was frankly surprised. As if they had more than the HD650s, but it could be just a perception as the HD650s have quite bloated low range -- and the amp is not the optimal one for the Senns. 

 So, the bass is not the issue. I don't know if there's anything wrong, but the presentation is so different from the HD650s I can't see the big picture right away. The dynamic range may be doing something here! Nevertheless, it is the very album (MFSL'd Meddle) that makes the staxes shine -- no issues on dynamics, the bass is very great and similar to HD650s. 

 Since the 202 is a lower one of the Staxes, in what sections do the sound improve when we climb the ladders? Some say the bass improves. Anything more important? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: forgot to stress the bad source of mine that probably evens the worlds too much.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Considering the bhse is the pinnacle of electrostatic amps atm, i'm very surprised that it doesnt come configured for every common connection i.e. stax normal and pro and also senn and koss. If i was in the position to build or purchase the best electrostatic amp there apparently is i would consider myself short changed if these weren't included especially since the cost to do this would be minor compared to the cost of the amp.

 All your really looking at is a 240, 580 and 620 (i think) bias voltage with the correct connector on the front. Failing this at least include a stax to sennheiser and stax to koss adaptor._

 

Unfortunately, purchasers of the BHSE only have a choice of 2 outputs. Through the BHSE this really puts a great restriction on our choice of headphones whether now or in the future. I am inclined to have 2 different output jacks. But the question for me is - which 2nd one (first one is obviously the pro bias for the O2). After I have decided, will have to call Justin to tell him. Perhaps I also ought to ask him if more different jacks can be incorporated. I can only hope that the answer is "yes".


----------



## krmathis

progo. Congratulations with 2020 system. A nice system indeed, and a great entry to the world of electrostatic headphones.
 Those who claim that Stax have no bass have most probably never heard one. Its totally wrong imo.

 Enjoy!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those who claim that Stax have no bass have most probably never heard one. Its totally wrong imo._

 

Well, *some stax have very little bass.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, *some stax have very little bass._

 

Sure, but that statement can probably be used for all brands out there. I am sure most (all?) of them have a 'phone or two with little bass. ...and when they say 'Stax', and not 'Stax SR-3' (or whatever), its obvious that they mean the brand in general and not a specific model.


----------



## slaikan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the SRD-5 - does this help you a bit?






 I haven't checked mine out internally yet . They recently entered the stable and am still having fun just listening.

This SITE SHOULD BE HELPFUL

 *I pre-translated it through google - much easier to read in english...at least to me._

 

Awesome, thank-you so much Germania, and good luck with the Lambda's!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, but that statement can probably be used for all brands out there. I am sure most (all?) of them have a 'phone or two with little bass. ...and when they say 'Stax', and not 'Stax SR-3' (or whatever), its obvious that they mean the brand in general and not a specific model. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

We do often say that planar headphones in general typically lack the sort of "bass slam" that incurable bassheads of the adolescent variety seem to crave. I wonder if that's what he was referring to.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slaikan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bad thing is that it seems like its been tinkered with before, connector on the SR-5's is missing. So I've opened the speakers up, and I have:

 Left Speaker, green, brown, black
 Right Speaker, red, blue white

 Anyone have the pinout for the 6-pin connector? I've searched on these forums, but I cant seem to find what I'm looking for._

 


 I have a PDF file explaining the Stax connector and jack pinout.
 PM me with your email address and I will send to you.


----------



## edstrelow

In my collection only the SRX3 could be said to lack bass and that is only at the extreme bottom. On much material it sounds very good bass-wise. The low bias Sigma seems to have some bass loss at the bottom as well, but when compared dierctly with the SRX3 it shows a lot of bass.
 I would say it has a broad, euphonic bass emphasis, which masks the loss of the extreme bass.

 My Lambda Nova and 404 have a good bass kick at the bottom, but sometimes sound thin because they lack the Sigma-type broad bass boost. 

 The 007A has a bit less extreme bass than the 404 and a bit of a low/midbass peak, peakier but less broad than the Sigma, but in other respects is so nicely balanced tonally that one quibbles to complain.


----------



## -=Germania=-

I GOT MYSELF SOME SR-LAMBDA's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






 Sr-Lambda + SRD7/SB for the low, low price of $300. 

 Life is so sweet!

 *Finally Owning my Dream Phones*

 Haha , actually would make the best transportable rig ever
 iPod > SI Gen2 T-Amp run on Batteries > SRD-7/SB > SR-Lambda

 Though it would only be brought outside for car trips....


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I GOT MYSELF SOME SR-LAMBDA's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






 Sr-Lambda + SRD7/SB for the low, low price of $300. 

 Life is so sweet!

 *Finally Owning my Dream Phones*

 Haha , actually would make the best transportable rig ever
 iPod > SI Gen2 T-Amp run on Batteries > SRD-7/SB > SR-Lambda

 Though it would only be brought outside for car trips.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 woot


----------



## gp_hebert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Sr-Lambda + SRD7/SB for the low, low price of $300. _

 

Not the deal of the century, but congrats anyway. BTW, the Stax thread is one of last few places on head-fi where people have intelligent and rational discussions, please try to keep it that way.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not the deal of the century, but congrats anyway. BTW, the Stax thread is one of last few places on head-fi where people have intelligent and rational discussions, please try to keep it that way._

 

You mean rational, other than dropping $5000 on a headphone/energizer combo?


----------



## milkpowder

-=Germania=-, congrats. I really like the original Lambda. $300 is how much the combo goes for though, sometimes even less...


----------



## Sherwood

I paid more than $300, but I was impatient


----------



## gp_hebert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You mean rational, other than dropping $5000 on a headphone/energizer combo?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nope, spending 5000$ on that combo would just be crazy. I spent less than 1600$ for the O2 and SRD-7 Mk2 together.

 When I said rational, I was referring to some of the stuff that she wrote in the DIY section and dancing monkeys with lots of exlamation points and capital letters. Maybe I'm alone in my rant, but I feel the Stax thread is more serious than that.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I GOT MYSELF SOME SR-LAMBDA's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






 Sr-Lambda + SRD7/SB for the low, low price of $300. 

 Life is so sweet!

 *Finally Owning my Dream Phones*

 Haha , actually would make the best transportable rig ever
 iPod > SI Gen2 T-Amp run on Batteries > SRD-7/SB > SR-Lambda

 Though it would only be brought outside for car trips.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Watch out! The SR-Lambda is the gateway earspeaker to heavier STAX.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Yeah, I realize that. 

 Guys, don't worry. I have been keeping pretty quiet as of late and generally trying not to be so very silly. My "summer phase" was one of arrogance and ignorance. School has a way of making reality set in a little more. 

 I don't see myself dropping the money for some of the greater Stax for quite a while. Lambda's are plenty good for me ATM. 
 Lately, I have been seeing that combo going for $400+ on eBay which is why I was so happy about it.


----------



## Faust2D

Hello 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone here have in their possession original Stax frequency response graph for SR-007 Mk1? Thanks in advance.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope, spending 5000$ on that combo would just be crazy. I spent less than 1600$ for the O2 and SRD-7 Mk2 together.

 When I said rational, I was referring to some of the stuff that she wrote in the DIY section and dancing monkeys with lots of exlamation points and capital letters. Maybe I'm alone in my rant, but I feel the Stax thread is more serious than that._

 

So what you really mean is, "We really don't need more of your kind here in the Stax thread, move along." (speaking to the monkey, not Germania)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Watch out! The SR-Lambda is the gateway earspeaker to heavier STAX._

 

The Gateway drug was the SR-5 that I sold her, and she only had them a day before jumping on the SR-Lambda.

 -=Germania=-, I just got some SR-007 Mk2 so you know what direction you are heading in, denial or not, you will be assimilated. Just don't ask me to buy the SR-5 back because I gotta sell off about $1500 of stuff by Christmas now, and I don't want to part with anything...


----------



## jvlgato

Germania,

 I'm right there with you! 

 Stax virgin. Just purchased a set of Lambda Pro's which were shipped from Kansas today, and separately, SRM-1 MK2 Pro just arrived from Colorado today! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Hey, you didn't buy that other pair of Lambda's that I was looking to buy a few days ago, also from Kansas?

 Anyway, I agree, life is sweet! I can't wait to hear them! 

 I only hope I don't get sucked into the O2 chamber like everyone says here!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I GOT MYSELF SOME SR-LAMBDA's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






 Sr-Lambda + SRD7/SB for the low, low price of $300. 

 Life is so sweet!

 *Finally Owning my Dream Phones*

 Haha , actually would make the best transportable rig ever
 iPod > SI Gen2 T-Amp run on Batteries > SRD-7/SB > SR-Lambda

 Though it would only be brought outside for car trips.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Rednamalas1

congrats germania!! I'll be in some staxsland soon! I'm still recovering a massive dent left by my vinyl.. when christmas hits -> omega for me


----------



## -=Germania=-

Please understand the excitement. 
 I have been lusting for some SR-Lambdas since March. 

 It was a silly post and was meant as such. 

 This thread is a very good thread and I have been following along to get and ideas of how everything relates. 
 Not really planning to post in this thread much since it seems that the current production Stax are the focus, and I am a newbie with regards to all things electrostatic.
 Time to sit, read, and learn.


----------



## ingwe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not the deal of the century, but congrats anyway. BTW, the Stax thread is one of last few places on head-fi where people have intelligent and rational discussions, please try to keep it that way._


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since the 202 is a lower one of the Staxes, in what sections do the sound improve when we climb the ladders? Some say the bass improves. Anything more important? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can increase the quality by upgrading in increments - especially by upgrading the amp. But you would not experience the BIG jump in audio quality. The rig you have is not bad at all.

 My advice would be to enjoy the 2020 while saving up for the significant upgrade to the Omega class.

 That would save you the potentially very costly gradual upgrading path.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

NVM

 Back on topic - the O2 Mk2 are mellowing out a little with burn-in, mids not as drilling as before...


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We do often say that planar headphones in general typically lack the sort of "bass slam" that incurable bassheads of the adolescent variety seem to crave. I wonder if that's what he was referring to._

 

I might have gathered something like that, yes. Suffice to say, I'm very glad to hear things like they are. 

 And to other matters: I noticed some oddities here... some orchestrated pieces sound a bit funny. Am I hearing something what could be called treble recession? The HD650s do marvellous highs here but the Staxes somehow dulled the peaks. And generally the sound is great, but the highs don't shine like with HD650s. Not saying it's the end of the world, just different.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* 
_You can increase the quality by upgrading in increments - especially by upgrading the amp. But you would not experience the BIG jump in audio quality. The rig you have is not bad at all.

 My advice would be to enjoy the 2020 while saving up for the significant upgrade to the Omega class.

 That would save you the potentially very costly gradual upgrading path._

 

Wow, straightly to the big O? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes, that would save the money, but I feel I shouldn't repeat the mistakes I did with going from Senn HD595 to HD650. I couldn't appreciate the HD650s because I had nothing to compare to. And besides, I want to hear all those nasty looking boxes on the way to the top


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, what are those claims Staxes don't have bass? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 To me, there's enough of it -- Pink Floyd's One of These Days (on the MFSL version of the Meddle) had actually so much bass I was frankly surprised. As if they had more than the HD650s, but it could be just a perception as the HD650s have quite bloated low range -- and the amp is not the optimal one for the Senns._

 

The problem is not the lack of bass volume, it's the lack of (or more accurately, diminished) tactile slam relative to some of the more impactful dynamic headphones. Electrostatic drivers have less excursion than dynamic drivers and move less air. They compensate for that somewhat by having a larger surface area, but they still don't have the tactile slam of some of the more impactful dynamics.

 Still, there are exceptions. The SR-003 takes no prisoners when it comes to bass slam and does it with a tiny driver no less. A well-driven O2 will hammer your brains out with the right music. There are plenty more as well, but I'm too tired to list them... Unfortunately the SR-x0x are some of the biggest offenders in the Stax lineup, and they're also the most popular Stax headphones, so they tend to perpetuate the impression that Stax don't have any slam.

 I'd wager that the lack of brilliance in the highs you're hearing is due to the same problem.


----------



## eruditass

is there a consolidated post anywhere that compares all the vintage options for headphones and energizers? there are so many options...

 SR-#
 SR-X
 SR-Sigma, Lambda, Gamma, etc
 SR-## (I understand electrets are not as good?

 SRD-#
 Any sonic differences between all these adapters? newer better?


----------



## The Monkey

I will be performing surgery on my Lambda Sigs in the near future, and I am a bit scared.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there a consolidated post anywhere that compares all the vintage options for headphones and energizers? there are so many options...

 SR-#
 SR-X
 SR-Sigma, Lambda, Gamma, etc
 SR-## (I understand electrets are not as good?

 SRD-#
 Any sonic differences between all these adapters? newer better?_

 

this site will help
Stax Earspeakers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will be performing surgery on my Lambda Sigs in the near future, and I am a bit scared._

 


 Why, what's wrong with it? Why the need for surgery?


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem is not the lack of bass volume, it's the lack of (or more accurately, diminished) tactile slam relative to some of the more impactful dynamic headphones. Electrostatic drivers have less excursion than dynamic drivers and move less air. They compensate for that somewhat by having a larger surface area, but they still don't have the tactile slam of some of the more impactful dynamics._

 

Exactly what I've read earlier and imagined the bass response was somewhat nonexistent. The real sound was pleasantly different from my expectations.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still, there are exceptions. The SR-003 takes no prisoners when it comes to bass slam and does it with a tiny driver no less. A well-driven O2 will hammer your brains out with the right music. There are plenty more as well, but I'm too tired to list them... Unfortunately the SR-x0x are some of the biggest offenders in the Stax lineup, and they're also the most popular Stax headphones, so they tend to perpetuate the impression that Stax don't have any slam._

 

Both of your examples seem to feature circular drivers. Something to do with this matter? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be waiting for the day I get to listen to the Omegas. 

 Darn, I had so much expectations for the Stax, but thought rationally, why would the entry level stax system beat a higher level sennheiser system? I'll be comparing the two and in the future, come up with a review/comparison.

 btw, Last night I had a dream .. I was attending a music fest or similar. Tangerine Dream were playing for 5 minutes and then left. I opened a closet and there was a pair of Sigmas which weighted about 4 pounds. They had a three-legged plug, rusty and little greenish. What might this tell about my future?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why, what's wrong with it? Why the need for surgery? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He's going to install the O2 cable


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Aha, I see. Interesting. 
 Hope all goes well.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly what I've read earlier and imagined the bass response was somewhat nonexistent. The real sound was pleasantly different from my expectations.


 Both of your examples seem to feature circular drivers. Something to do with this matter? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be waiting for the day I get to listen to the Omegas. 

 Darn, I had so much expectations for the Stax, but thought rationally, why would the entry level stax system beat a higher level sennheiser system? I'll be comparing the two and in the future, come up with a review/comparison.

 btw, Last night I had a dream .. I was attending a music fest or similar. Tangerine Dream were playing for 5 minutes and then left. I opened a closet and there was a pair of Sigmas which weighted about 4 pounds. They had a three-legged plug, rusty and little greenish. What might this tell about my future? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

First I've ever heard of anyone dreaming about headphones.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there a consolidated post anywhere that compares all the vintage options for headphones and energizers? there are so many options...

 SR-#
 SR-X
 SR-Sigma, Lambda, Gamma, etc
 SR-## (I understand electrets are not as good?

 SRD-#
 Any sonic differences between all these adapters? newer better?_

 

This type of assessment is a tall order. You will see a number of discusssions of specfic phone/amp combo's but full scale comparisons of several amps and several phones are rare, if not non-existent.

 I can give you my impressions of a number of my Stax phone/amp combinations and something about the Koss 950 as well, since it is increasingly being used with Stax amps.

 Stax phones go back to 1960 and Stax immediately began offering both amplifiers and transformer-based adapters for their phones. The adapters require use of an existing power amp to drive. The amps by comparison are connected to a line level source. Stax stopped making adapters about 10 years ago and now only offer amps. Ther are also a number of other makers of small numbers of amps for Stax phones. These are generally more expensive than Stax products.

 The Stax phones vary quite a bit in their efficiency and I find that I can run the more efficient ones such as the SR003 quite nicely with the cheaper amps whereas you need a bigger amp for the less efficient O2's and Sigmas.

 It's been years since I had a transformer adapter and I can't say much about them. There is some agreement that they can give good dynamics with Stax phones, but lack detail. They are also more likely to damage your phones than amps because they can be overdriven by power amps. It is hard finding transformers with high (pro) bias and most of what is sold are the older low bias units for the older low bias phones.

 My oldest Stax amp is low bias, a SRA12S which is actually a pre-amp, which I still use in that role. It sounds pretty good with a low bias Sigma and SRX3.

 I have an SRDP which is an older portable amp, with 2 high bias outputs. It is decent with the Stax phones that are easier to drive such as the SR003 and various Lambdas. They struggle somewhat with the Koss 950 and even more with high bias Sigmas but are ok for limited or portable use. They will drive the O2 but not to anything like its potential.

 I also have an SRDX which is a low bias portable amp like the SRDP, specifically set up for use with existing headphone sockets. As an amp my understanding is that it has some cheap power amp chips driving transformers so it is kind of a hybrid amp/transformer system. I find it suprisingly good with the SRX3, but the SRA12S is better with these phones.

 You can actually run high bias Stax phones on low bias amps, with some loss of volume and dynamics. I would say that only the SR003 runs very well from a low bias source.

 I run 2 SRM3 amps. They are pretty good with Lambdas (Nova and 404) and SR003's. They sometimes run out of steam with the Sigmas and the O2 doesn't sound too clear on them but is serviceable.

 My top amp is the Stax 717 (now 727A?). It runs every high bias phone well and really allows the O2 and high bias Sigmas to shine, although it also somewhat improves the Lambdas compared to the SRM3.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both of your examples seem to feature circular drivers. Something to do with this matter? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be waiting for the day I get to listen to the Omegas. 

 Darn, I had so much expectations for the Stax, but thought rationally, why would the entry level stax system beat a higher level sennheiser system? I'll be comparing the two and in the future, come up with a review/comparison.

 btw, Last night I had a dream .. I was attending a music fest or similar. Tangerine Dream were playing for 5 minutes and then left. I opened a closet and there was a pair of Sigmas which weighted about 4 pounds. They had a three-legged plug, rusty and little greenish. What might this tell about my future? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't think that the shape of the drivers has much to do with it. Spritzer would be able to tell you better in terms of what actually makes the O2 and 003 have such outstanding slam. From what I've read the ESP950, the 4070 (which uses the same driver as the 404), and the SR-X MkIII also have very good slam. I can somewhat attest to the latter since I have a custom headphone on loan that uses Gamma Pro drivers, which are also in the SR-X MkIII Pro, and it has serious slam. Better than my O2 from the 717, but the 717 is hardly doing the O2 any favors in the slam department.

 If you do have a chance to listen to the O2, make sure it's the Mk1 model to relate to what I'm talking about. I had both the Mk1 and Mk2 in my hands at one point and they're quite different. I prefer the Mk1 by a long margin. The Mk2 does have serious slam as well.

 I don't have dreams about headphones, but that's mostly because I'm too busy dreaming about geometric abstract representations of the concept of free will, zeppelins made out of genetically modified dogs, future dystopias filled with giant robots, and cannibal crabs eating the fabric of reality from which my dreams are made.

 But maybe your dream is a sign to get some Sigmas?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I am trying out different methods of amping my new O2 Mk2 (about 75 hours of burn-in so far). I want to be able to use my O2 in more places around the house than just in my main rig with the Woo GES.

 It's been mentioned here previously that the SRD transformer boxes have a power handling rating of about 7 watt per channel from a speaker amp. I have an SRD-7 Pro hooked up to a 12 watt per channel Nuforce Icon speaker amp. With my HE60 and Lambda Sig I usually don't have to go past 12 o'clock on the volume for loud music. The ESP 950 need a little bit more power up to 1 o'clock. But with the O2 if I want get nice loud clean punchy dynamic music reproduction, then sometimes I need to crank the amp up to 3 o'clock or more (very high power but still below the point of clipping). I only tried this briefly, like for 30 seconds but got scared of damaging the SRD-7 Pro.

 Would you experts reassure me that as long as I keep the amp out of clipping, that I can give the SRD-7 up to the 12 watts of clean power that I have on tap and still be safe? Is there maybe a time limit where 12 watts is fine for an hour or two, but then over-heating could be an issue? 

 Thanks!


----------



## Sherwood

Also, I remember there being a nice up-market Transformer that was not built by Stax on some long-gone thread. Anyone else share this delusion with me?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, I remember there being a nice up-market Transformer that was not built by Stax on some long-gone thread. Anyone else share this delusion with me?_

 

The Illusion I think it was called, not delusion.


----------



## Sherwood

Well there's a happy accident for you.


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think that the shape of the drivers has much to do with it. Spritzer would be able to tell you better in terms of what actually makes the O2 and 003 have such outstanding slam. From what I've read the ESP950, the 4070 (which uses the same driver as the 404), and the SR-X MkIII also have very good slam. I can somewhat attest to the latter since I have a custom headphone on loan that uses Gamma Pro drivers, which are also in the SR-X MkIII Pro, and it has serious slam. Better than my O2 from the 717, but the 717 is hardly doing the O2 any favors in the slam department.

 If you do have a chance to listen to the O2, make sure it's the Mk1 model to relate to what I'm talking about. I had both the Mk1 and Mk2 in my hands at one point and they're quite different. I prefer the Mk1 by a long margin. The Mk2 does have serious slam as well._

 

So be it, although I'd be looking at other assets first as the bass is not the main selling point for me. Of course, nice slam is always nice, no questions about it!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But maybe your dream is a sign to get some Sigmas?_

 

Now that's how I want to interpret it.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would you experts reassure me that as long as I keep the amp out of clipping, that I can give the SRD-7 up to the 12 watts of clean power that I have on tap and still be safe? Is there maybe a time limit where 12 watts is fine for an hour or two, but then over-heating could be an issue? Thanks!_

 

I've heard of many people driving a SRD with high power (over 50 watts) without any trouble. The real problem is overdriving the headphones and arcing the driver. Replacing a driver can be expensive. The low bias phones have closer stator spacing and are even easier to arc.

 A transformer needs sustained over current over time to be destroyed. The drivers just need a voltage transient over the breakdown voltage. Totally different conditions for damage. For you to heat the transformers you will probably have transients over the breakdown voltage of the drivers.

 A low power amp clipping has a lot of high frequency energy that can have voltages high enough to arc the driver but not hurt the transformer. I would much rather have a bigger amp that has no chance of clipping and just be careful of the volumes that you listen.

 In almost all cases the phones will go before the transformer. Be careful.


----------



## spritzer

The most common reason for the lack of slam in ES transducers is the chassis design and that so much of the energy is wasted on vibrations. The ultimate test for this is comparing the excellent SR-Omega chassis to the SR-007, both fitted with the same drivers. Very similar sound but the older chassis can't handle the same amount of bass information and smears them, creating a slight boom. The SR-003 might be made out of plastic but the chassis is tiny and in direct contact to the head so all vibrations are soaked up by the head.


----------



## gp_hebert

I'm currently driving my SR-007 with the Cambridge 840A which has 120W per channel and I'm kind of worried too about blowing off the drivers. I've been told that as long as I don't overdrive the Stax, everything should work fine, but is there anything else that can damage the drivers? Like a resistor frying in the transformer box or something like that? There's not a lot of documentation about driving the Stax with amps that have a lot of power. It sounds excellent by the way, punchy sound with very good dynamics. Not on the same level as a KGSS, but it does justice to the SR-007 a lot better than the Stax amps I have heard.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

So, if I have an SPL meter available, what max db of playback volume would be safe with the SR-007 Mk2 if driven with clean non-clipping power?? (i.e. with HD600 it is about 1/5 watt and 118 db output level).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, if I have an SPL meter available, what max db of playback volume would be safe with the SR-007 Mk2 if driven with clean non-clipping power?? (i.e. with HD600 it is about 1/5 watt and 118 db output level)._

 

Transient spikes are what usually arc a stat. Most sound level meters are average responding and can’t measure a transient very well (unless you have a expensive impulse meter like a B&K). If you listened to a lot of compressed music (most pop/rock) you could listen overall louder than music with wide dynamic range with a lot of transients (Jazz & Classical). A loud drum rim shot, a cymbal crash, a snare drum hit, a trumpet blast, a loud bass guitar can put you over the top and a averge SPL meter would not respond fast enough.

 You could contact Stax USA and try to find out what is the breakdown voltage of the driver. Then you would have to connect the high voltage output of the amp to a oscilloscope that is calibrated to a output of a high voltage probe. Look at the scope when playing music and do not let the waveform go above the breakdown voltage. Way to much trouble. What you need is a device that would go between the amp and phone that would have a LED that would light when you are getting near the limit.

 When I was a Stax dealer in the seventies we used to replace SR-X and SR-5 drivers all the time. We would tell our customers to turn down the volume or switch to a dynamic headphone. This applies to stat speakers also!

 Bottom Line, If you want to listen to headphones at extremely loud levels I would stick to dynamics.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Hello there, 

 I searched and could not find anything on cleaning out old Stax. 
 The pair of Lambdas I recently got have some tiny pieces of foam stuck between the grill and driver causing what sounds like static. There is also a bit of noise when I moved the right cable lead. 

 Any help would be appreciated.

 Thanks.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hi. Let me clarify. I don't want to listen to them at extremely loud levels in general or very often. I simply discovered when driving my new O2 Mk2 with my Nuforce Icon and SRD-7 Pro that the volume knob was at 3 o'clock, just to get the same loud volume levels that my other stats achieve at 12-1 o'clock. I was concerned that this could be as much as 10 clean watts of power into the SRD-7 Pro, and feared it might be too much.

 Now, that was as loud as I would ever listen to it on musical peaks, and it is well below the audible clipping level on my 12 watt Nuforce amp. I'm not wanting to go louder than this, and usually I wont go that loud very often. But I wanted to be sure that I don't exceed safe power levels. So I was looking for a benchmark to compare against, to know when I am still in the safe zone, because 3 o'clock on the volume knob seems intimidating.

 So, let me try asking this a third time but differently again - Can the O2 Mk2 via SRD-7 Pro safely play as loud (subjectively to the ears) as my HE60 or SR-Lambda Signature or ESP950? If the answer is yes, then hitting 3 o'clock on the volume knob of my 12 watt amp should be as safe as 12-1 o'clock has been all these months with my other stats. Right? 

 I give up after this time. I feel like I'm driving a souped up turbo sports car without an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge to tell me when I'm still safe or about to melt something.


----------



## -=Germania=-

OK, So I opened them up and it seems that the static is due to one of the cable lines not being in great condition halfway the cable entry. (checked with a multi-meter). If I can/could find a Normal Bias extension cable, it would be an easy fix. I ordered a microphone plug just in case, but I really don't want to have to deal with these plugs since they seem like a pain to modify. The sound is barely noticible and can only be heard if moving around and there is a silent passage.

 If someone could point me in the direction of how to lift up those grills and clean that out I would be very appreciative.


----------



## powertoold

I hope to lose my electrostatic virginity next week. I've been spending too much time looking at and reading about electrostatic phones


----------



## krmathis

'HeadphoneAddict', I think both the SRD-7 Pro and SR-007MK2 are safe, as long as you don't hear any distortion/clipping.
 Your ears will most probably take damage before the gear do.

 I drive my SR-007BL (MK1) with and SRD-7 Pro, powered by the Signature 30.2. Normal listening volume around 8:30-9 o'clock, where 12 o'clock is insane loud (my ears begin to hurt).
 Sounds very nice as well!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi. Let me clarify. I don't want to listen to them at extremely loud levels in general or very often. I simply discovered when driving my new O2 Mk2 with my Nuforce Icon and SRD-7 Pro that the volume knob was at 3 o'clock, just to get the same loud volume levels that my other stats achieve at 12-1 o'clock. I was concerned that this could be as much as 10 clean watts of power into the SRD-7 Pro, and feared it might be too much.

 Now, that was as loud as I would ever listen to it on musical peaks, and it is well below the audible clipping level on my 12 watt Nuforce amp. I'm not wanting to go louder than this, and usually I wont go that loud very often. But I wanted to be sure that I don't exceed safe power levels. So I was looking for a benchmark to compare against, to know when I am still in the safe zone, because 3 o'clock on the volume knob seems intimidating.

 So, let me try asking this a third time but differently again - Can the O2 Mk2 via SRD-7 Pro safely play as loud (subjectively to the ears) as my HE60 or SR-Lambda Signature or ESP950? If the answer is yes, then hitting 3 o'clock on the volume knob of my 12 watt amp should be as safe as 12-1 o'clock has been all these months with my other stats. Right? 

 I give up after this time. I feel like I'm driving a souped up turbo sports car without an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge to tell me when I'm still safe or about to melt something._

 

The O2’s can play painfully loud for me. It sounds like you are not even close to that level. Remember that 3/4 volume doesn’t mean 3/4 power. If your source had higher output you would have higher levels with the volume knob at a lower setting. My guess is that you are not even close to clipping the amp. If you hear any distortion or strain back off the volume. Happy listening.


----------



## spritzer

The position of the volume control is tied directly to the output voltage of the source and the amplifier gain. To do damage to the SR-007 the Icon would have to output at least 30v+ and you would be going deaf rather quickly. I can't see that happening from a tiny chip amp. The SR-007 Mk2 is rated at 100dB/100v rms and you need more then 1000v to arc them.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

THANKS GANG!


----------



## -=Germania=-

Alright, shortened the cable leads and managed to clean out the grills. Working fine and no more noise. Great little learning experience. Forget the previous posts.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, shortened the cable leads and managed to clean out the grills. Working fine and no more noise. Great little learning experience. Forget the previous posts._

 

Great news! And happy birthday.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_THANKS GANG!_

 

You're most welcome!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, shortened the cable leads and managed to clean out the grills. Working fine and no more noise. Great little learning experience. Forget the previous posts._

 

Great to hear that you fixed the problem, and that the SR-Lambda are up and running fine again. Saving another doomed pair from the grave. Nice!

 Stacy. Happy Birthday to you as well!
 Make it a memorable one.


----------



## Deadneddz

Listened the Omega 2 MKI and the Orpheus out of the Singlepower ES2 just the other day. 

 From a brief comparison, i enjoyed the Omega 2 MKI just a bit more. It smeared notes in complicated passages a little less than the orpheus. Also seemed a little less laid back. Still very small amount of differences. These two phones were absolute beasts.

 I find that the orpheus, mkI and R10 are the only phones that sound similar to my UE11s. I sort of use my UE11s as a reference becuase they have the resolving micro and macro detail of upper end electros, the fleshed out beautiful midrange of the sony R10, (but only when amped with ray samuels sr-71a) and the bass and prat of ath L3000s.

 But obviously they do all these things not as well as the mentioned headphones. They are only a taste of all these headphones in one, plus a lack of soundstage.

 I use them as a reference for me because i havent heard a dynamic pair that is as quick and resolving as the UE-11s, except for maybe the K1000s and excluding the sony r-10.

 Now I just dont want to have to find a pair of used MK1s. Ive never heard the omega 2 mk2s so im kind of worried if i can get similar performance out of them as the omega mkI. 

 There seems to be an almost universal agreement that the mk2s are inferior to the mk1s. I just dont understand this. Is there perhaps not a suitable amp for them on the market right now?

 Help me guys, i love the orpheus and MKI, but i dont really want to buy used. Anyone out there like the MK2?


----------



## progo

Speaking of laidbackness... As I listen to my 202s they are somewhat laidback- Is there anything in the current Stax lineup that would be more forward and generally very involving? Usually they two don't come along too well. 
 Ahh, the more I listen to my 202s the less I feel need for my Sennheisers. They do sound fine with movies... I should try staxes with a film soon.


----------



## ericj

Saturday night i finally tried using my Bijou all-tube OTL headphone amp (6N1P-EV + 6N6P) as a preamp to drive my Kenwood KM-105 power amp driving an SRD-7.

 The results were pretty good. Nice tubey warmth and enhanced headstage, and the Kenwood certainly has more than enough power. 

 Now i need to wire up a pair of RCA jacks on the back of the Bijou - possibly with a voltage divider because this combination goes far louder than could possibly be wise. Maybe rig up a delay circuit and relays as well - or just carve up a wood or plastic dummy TRS plug for muting the line-out during power-up.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listened the Omega 2 MKI and the Orpheus out of the Singlepower ES2 just the other day. 

 From a brief comparison, i enjoyed the Omega 2 MKI just a bit more. It smeared notes in complicated passages a little less than the orpheus. Also seemed a little less laid back. Still very small amount of differences. These two phones were absolute beasts.

 I find that the orpheus, mkI and R10 are the only phones that sound similar to my UE11s. I sort of use my UE11s as a reference becuase they have the resolving micro and macro detail of upper end electros, the fleshed out beautiful midrange of the sony R10, (but only when amped with ray samuels sr-71a) and the bass and prat of ath L3000s.

 But obviously they do all these things not as well as the mentioned headphones. They are only a taste of all these headphones in one, plus a lack of soundstage.

 I use them as a reference for me because i havent heard a dynamic pair that is as quick and resolving as the UE-11s, except for maybe the K1000s and excluding the sony r-10.

 Now I just dont want to have to find a pair of used MK1s. Ive never heard the omega 2 mk2s so im kind of worried if i can get similar performance out of them as the omega mkI. 

 There seems to be an almost universal agreement that the mk2s are inferior to the mk1s. I just dont understand this. Is there perhaps not a suitable amp for them on the market right now?

 Help me guys, i love the orpheus and MKI, but i dont really want to buy used. Anyone out there like the MK2?_

 

What's a UE11? Sometimes company names help.

 See the What 007 thread says re 007 and 007A. There is really no universal agreement about quality but there is agreement that these 2 phones sound somewhat different. The differences can be reduced by mods to the 007A. I personally am happy with the 007A but will probably try the mods some day.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Ultimate Ears UE-11 Pro @ HeadRoom - Right Between Your Ears

 The UE-11 Pro is a custom mold IEM.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Krmathis, 

 I was surprised how internally simple the electrostatics are and easy to work on; was expecting it to be a long, uphill battle. Though a static strap was used just in case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Mysteriously, when I told the seller about the problems of the right grill was dented in two places (now fixed), the cable, and they were shipped fithy/smelled he hasn't sent a single response. Now, I don't mind fixing things - but he did lie and I wonder what the person who would have gotten them instead could have been stuck with.


----------



## webbie64

Full empathy here, -=Germania=-.

 I've also experienced non-HeadFi sellers being a little 'loose' in their descriptions compared to the product.

 Sometimes it's just different perceptions, though (not everyone is as headphone-focussed as this community 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). For instance I immediately noticed a strong smell of red wine when I bought a set of ESPs and the previous owner had never noticed it. Didn't effect their performance in any way of course, but hard smell to get rid of. At least dents and cables are relatively simple physical repairs.

 I hope you continue to have fun enjoying the listening part of this recent purchase.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Krmathis, 

 I was surprised how internally simple the electrostatics are and easy to work on; was expecting it to be a long, uphill battle. Though a static strap was used just in case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Mysteriously, when I told the seller about the problems of the right grill was dented in two places (now fixed), the cable, and they were shipped fithy/smelled he hasn't sent a single response. Now, I don't mind fixing things - but he did lie and I wonder what the person who would have gotten them instead could have been stuck with._


----------



## -=Germania=-

Yeah, the right channel was nothing but static when I plugged it in and was getting no response from the seller. Luckily, it was fixable by fixing the grill first - then still getting a bit of static and fixing the cable. 
 The guy said that they were like new and worked perfectly. just makes me angry when they blatantly lie.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I'm eyeing a sr-5nb/srd-6nb setup in a private sale. what would you guys say is a fair price for this configuration? I've gotten some feedback from some people already, but I thought I would make one more inquiry. any help is appreciated.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, the right channel was nothing but static when I plugged it in and was getting no response from the seller. Luckily, it was fixable by fixing the grill first - then still getting a bit of static and fixing the cable. 
 The guy said that they were like new and worked perfectly. just makes me angry when they blatantly lie. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Happens al the time. EBAY is full of guys like that. After payment. they drop off the face of the earth.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Krmathis, 

 I was surprised how internally simple the electrostatics are and easy to work on; was expecting it to be a long, uphill battle. Though a static strap was used just in case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Mysteriously, when I told the seller about the problems of the right grill was dented in two places (now fixed), the cable, and they were shipped fithy/smelled he hasn't sent a single response. Now, I don't mind fixing things - but he did lie and I wonder what the person who would have gotten them instead could have been stuck with._

 

Yeah, they are quite simple internally. Just a diaphragm sandwiched between two stators, some plastic to hold it all together, and a cable.

 I have empathy for the fact that you received a broken pair though. Some sellers are aware of issues but keep tight about them, sadly!
 He/She receive the money, then disappear.


----------



## ericj

Alright, who bought that busted up SRA-12S on ebay?


----------



## Sherwood

I was watching it... but a big no.


----------



## spritzer

I was watching it as well but I don't need more amps...


----------



## Sherwood

When was this ever about what we need?


----------



## ericj

I was thinking i could probably fix it. But sometimes a "broken resistor" is just the most visible aspect of a massive circuit failure. 

 Plus it made me nervous that he said the electrostat boards weren't "plugged in" but it doesn't exactly look like a backplane card-cage - might be tricky to figure out how to reinstall them once fixed.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was thinking i could probably fix it. But sometimes a "broken resistor" is just the most visible aspect of a massive circuit failure. 

 Plus it made me nervous that he said the electrostat boards weren't "plugged in" but it doesn't exactly look like a backplane card-cage - might be tricky to figure out how to reinstall them once fixed._

 

It's not hard to put the amp boards back in. I use one of these with a back-up in the garage for spare parts.

 The boards run so hot that it's probably a good idea to remove the boards if you are just using the unit as a pre-amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When was this ever about what we need?_

 

I'm way past the need to just buy stuff for the sake of buying it. Eric is also right that a single charred resistor can be just the tip of the iceberg.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm way past the need to just buy stuff for the sake of buying it. Eric is also right that a single charred resistor can be just the tip of the iceberg._

 

x2. Justin just emailed me for initial payment of the BHSE. He said I should get it in the early part of next year. After this purchase, I hope I do not have to buy anything else for a long time to come and will sit down to listen to the music instead of listening to the equipment.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm way past the need to just buy headphone gear for the sake of buying it. Eric is also right that a single charred resistor can be just the tip of the iceberg._

 

Fixed that for you, you'll thank me next time you buy a snowglobe or something


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fixed that for you, you'll thank me next time you buy a snowglobe or something 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If Iceland's anything like I've read about it these last few weeks, he'd be lucky to buy snow.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm way past the need to just buy stuff for the sake of buying it._

 

If Spritzer sold off his collection he could probably refloat the Iceland economy!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_x2. Justin just emailed me for initial payment of the BHSE. He said I should get it in the early part of next year. After this purchase, I hope I do not have to buy anything else for a long time to come and will sit down to listen to the music instead of listening to the equipment._

 

You will certainly be past the upgrade stage but a Sigma might tempt you or something like that... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If Iceland's anything like I've read about it these last few weeks, he'd be lucky to buy snow._

 

No need to buy any as the ground is covered by it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If Spritzer sold off his collection he could probably refloat the Iceland economy!_

 

Well I've already sold off most of it already...


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will certainly be past the upgrade stage but a Sigma might tempt you or something like that... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ..._

 

Spritzer - "cruel"!!! Trying to tempt me? Ha! What can I expect from the sigma? and which sigma?


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need to buy any as the ground is covered by it._

 

Surely not! In Iceland?


----------



## spritzer

I think you just have to find out about the Sigmas in person...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Surely not! In Iceland?_

 

The name really is misnomer as the winters here aren't all that bad. Even the glaciers are disappearing now but this is a normal cycle that happens every few hundred years.


----------



## Sherwood

The graph I'm looking at says your next week won't get above 4 C. That's not so bad.

 Though I guess the colder it gets, the nicer it is to take a dip in the blue lagoon.


----------



## spritzer

The coldest it gets here is about -15°C every few years and I haven't been to the Blue Lagoon in 15 years...


----------



## Audio-Omega

It must be hard to give up most of your collections, spritzer.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm eyeing a sr-5nb/srd-6nb setup in a private sale. what would you guys say is a fair price for this configuration? I've gotten some feedback from some people already, but I thought I would make one more inquiry. any help is appreciated._

 

Somewhere around $200 should be fair.

  Quote:


 Sometimes it's just different perceptions, though (not everyone is as headphone-focussed as this community ). For instance I immediately noticed a strong smell of red wine when I bought a set of ESPs and the previous owner had never noticed it. Didn't effect their performance in any way of course, but hard smell to get rid of. At least dents and cables are relatively simple physical repairs. 
 

*cough* didn't recognise it more like <__< and I thought it was just the box.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The coldest it gets here is about -15°C every few years and I haven't been to the Blue Lagoon in 15 years..._

 

ABout the same as over here.
 It rarely goes below -15°C in the Oslo area during the winter time. I have experienced -45°C, but that was ~350km further north. Brrrr


----------



## scompton

It gets that cold once every couple of years here in the Washington DC area, if you're talking about over night lows. If that's the day time high, that's pretty cold. I was in -50°F (-45°C) in New England in the 70's when skiing. I watched someone take off his gloves to drink brandy. I figured he didn't like his fingers much.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It gets that cold once every couple of years here in the Washington DC area, if you're talking about over night lows. If that's the day time high, that's pretty cold._

 

My experience were in the late afternoon, around 5-6pm I guess.
 Had driven my car for a couple of hours north, and noticed how the climate changed around me. Stopped to fill some gas, and went out wearing a relative thin shirt and no glows. When I later went in to pay for the gas the guy behind the counter told me it were -45°C outside. No wonder I were freezing when I filled her up... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Luckily these temperatures are quite rare here in southern Norway.


 Ok, back to Stax.
 I really should get started building a higher quality transformer unit, to drive my Stax'en from the Signature 30.2. I have been talking about it for a long time, but so far just been that. Talk...

 The SRD-7 Pro does a quite nice job, but I really feel it come short feeding the SR-007BL. I really think the Signature 30.2 is capable, but the transformers in the SRD-7 Pro don't stand up to the task.
 Two Plitron PAT 4133-ES transformers and a nice bias supply are on my wtb list.


----------



## spritzer

I would rather be gearing any transformer use more towards the B22 since the RWA is just an overpriced chipamp while the B22 is a Class A monster with very high slew rate and low output impedance, both very important if you are going to drive transformers.


----------



## krmathis

^ Yeah, I plan to build one which can be used with both amplifiers.
 But right now I only have the Signature 30.2, and hence why I mention that one as driving the SRD-7 Pro and a future aftermarket transformer.


----------



## Victor Chew

We do not get the cold here, in Singapore, but the headphones can get pretty hot on "extended listening". If the amp is near you can feel the heat quite a bit. Tube amps are even worse.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We do not get the cold here, in Singapore, but the headphones can get pretty hot on "extended listening". If the amp is near you can feel the heat quite a bit. Tube amps are even worse._

 

Same issue here in Australia. Stax are not on my head much during the summer purely due to the heat (sweaty headphone pads on all Stax - O2, 404, Sigmas, etc - IMHO and aforementioned tube amp heat). HE60 pads and weight, though, are still very wearable for longer periods


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same issue here in Australia. Stax are not on my head much during the summer purely due to the heat (sweaty headphone pads on all Stax - O2, 404, Sigmas, etc - IMHO and aforementioned tube amp heat). HE60 pads and weight, though, are still very wearable for longer periods 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe stax should consider the heat issue, for hot places, for future stax headphones. On a positive note, open headphones or speakerphones like stax are still better, heat wise, compared to totally closed ones. Well, if they can build a fan or air conditioner in it, that would be a real revolution. Ha!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe stax should consider the heat issue, for hot places, for future stax headphones. On a positive note, open headphones or speakerphones like stax are still better, heat wise, compared to totally closed ones._

 

You know, Stax make both open-back and closed-back headphones...


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know, Stax make both open-back and closed-back headphones... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You have a point there! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW: Ω2II have real leather pads which are reported being more comfortable and cause less sweating than it's predecessor.
 All who own the Ω2 and changed the original pads to Ω2II pads seem to be happier (and drier) now.


----------



## spritzer

The new pads are only partially leather while the older pads are 100% real leather.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mopps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW: Ω2II have real leather pads which are reported being more comfortable and cause less sweating than it's predecessor._

 

Are you sure?
 Cause like 'spritzer' I am under the impression that the SR-007 and SR-007BL have pads of 100% leather, while the SR-007A and SR-007MKII have pads just partially made of leather...


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure?
 Cause like 'spritzer' I am under the impression that the SR-007 and SR-007BL have pads of 100% leather, while the SR-007A and SR-007MKII have pads just partially made of leather..._

 

Maybe the new ones have simply a thinner leather ("lamb skin") or a more "air-permeable" pleather?


----------



## spritzer

The inner chamber of the new pads is bigger so that might have some effect or the loose fitting pleather on the bottom may let some air escape.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same issue here in Australia. Stax are not on my head much during the summer purely due to the heat (sweaty headphone pads on all Stax - O2, 404, Sigmas, etc - IMHO and aforementioned tube amp heat). HE60 pads and weight, though, are still very wearable for longer periods 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I find the Sigmas are the coolest because they have such a large open cavity around the ears and are a non-sealing design . The 007A are the hottest because they are sealed, have a smaller cavity around the ears, and have really huge ear pads.

 The SRXIII only cover the pinna of the ear and gain some advantage in staying cool by that fact although because they press on the pinna they are somewhat uncomfortable.


----------



## John Buchanan

I agree with Ed regarding the "coolness" of the Stax Sigmas although my children definitely describe them as "not cool, Dad".


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with Ed regarding the "coolness" of the Stax Sigmas although my children definitely describe them as "not cool, Dad". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Definitely concur - Sigmas are the coolest of all the Stax in summer heat.

 John, the old expression 'teach 'em young' comes to mind. I'm helping my young ones (5 years and 11 weeks) by showing them that wearing Sigmas is a perfectly normal sight.


----------



## John Buchanan

Ahhhhhh hahahaha!


----------



## Victor Chew

The sound of the Omega 2 Mk 1 in its earlier days was not regarded as much as it is today. It gained more recognition as time went by as more powerful amps came into the market to make this beast sing. With the BHSE, hopefully, to be released soon, I wonder if the O2 mk 2 will share the same journey as the O2 mk 1? Justin, did mention that BHSE is improved over the original BH with circuit and component changes and will produce a more tube like sound.


----------



## Sherwood

Having heard neither, I am under the impression that at least one of members here have heard both headphones on the BHSE, and prefer the sound of the o2 Mk1.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-007 Mk1 was admired from the day it was released and that isn't going to happen to the Mk2/A since Stax messed up. Not the first time since the 4070 was released in 2001 and redesigned in 2002 so this is a common problem for Stax. 

 The BHSE should be different which is why I've been stockpiling the parts to build the old style of amp with a new PSU should I like the older design more. That's not counting the 3 box monster under construction though...


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007 Mk1 was admired from the day it was released and that isn't going to happen to the Mk2/A since Stax messed up. Not the first time since the 4070 was released in 2001 and redesigned in 2002 so this is a common problem for Stax. 

 The BHSE should be different which is why I've been stockpiling the parts to build the old style of amp with a new PSU should I like the older design more. That's not counting the 3 box monster under construction though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I take it you held onto *some* XF2s and found an alternate universe with 2sa1968s


----------



## eruditass

i just got sr-5 gold and srd-6 for 105 shipped! can't wait!

 from what i've read it seems like i'd prefer sr-x mk3 or sr-lambda (i like big soundstages) but at least i get my first taste of stax! i wonder how they will compare to my dt880's.

 unfortunately i just built my brother a home theater pc so the speaker amplifier willl probably be in use for some time..

 any recommendations for cheap speaker amps?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just got sr-5 gold and srd-6 for 105 shipped! can't wait!

 from what i've read it seems like i'd prefer sr-x mk3 or sr-lambda (i like big soundstages) but at least i get my first taste of stax! i wonder how they will compare to my dt880's.

 unfortunately i just built my brother a home theater pc so the speaker amplifier willl probably be in use for some time..

 any recommendations for cheap speaker amps?_

 

Hmm, that's an amazing price for the SR-5NB and SRD-6. A similar auction ended today for an SR-5 and SRD-6SB at $112 shipped, but the SR-5NB (gold) is worth a lot more.

Stax Electrostatic Ear speaker SR-5 - eBay (item 250311789680 end time Oct-26-08 16:39:50 PDT)


----------



## powertoold

Ok, here's my problem. I recently acquired a Stax Lambda Pro, SRM-1 MK-2 Pro, and an SRM-T1S. They were part of my first electrostatic system, and my impressions weren't too good. Before I get into my impressions, I'll say I fed the amplifiers with my portable iBasso D2 Viper using a silver core mini > RCA interconnect, and a lot of you will pounce on me and instantly think I'm an idiot. I know that stats are source, interconnect, power, etc. dependent, but please hear me out!

 Ok, my first impressions are that they are fast, but not any or much faster than my FreQ custom IEMs, so the speed didn't surprise me at all. I tried to listen to the Lambda Pros for a couple of hours and felt that the frequency spectrum was lopsided towards the upper mids and highs. There was bass, but it did not create a presence at all. It is not "real".

 I'm not sure how often many of you go to live jazz or symphonic concerts, but I was totally underwhelmed by the lack of bass. Sure, I've heard a lot about the stat bass deficiency, but it wasn't as I expected at all. For example, in one of my songs, there's a thunder sound effect, and yes, I did hear deep bass, but the impact and roar of thunder was not present. 

 I used the Lambda Pros with both the SRM-T1S and SRM-1. I liked the T1S more because it felt less veiled and congested, but the bass response did not change.

 Okay, I also felt the soundstage was only decent, but I will definitely blame it on my "source". However, I believe that whatever source, I won't get the bass response and impact I'm looking for. A good source is simply to better articulate the information sent to the amp. I don't think a better source would mean more bass.

 Aside from the bass, I felt many other parts of the spectrum were done well, except for some of the highs. For example, some of the cymbals seemed to splash over everything, but again, that's probably because of my source.

 Anyway, I will try to give stats another chance once I get my Zero DAC, which is a Chinese product, so again, many of you will think I'm an idiot


----------



## eruditass

heh.. you know what? that was the one i won.

 and well, i was too happy when i saw the first pic and i thought it looked gold like the sr-5nb i had seen, but the yellow flash deceived me, and well i didnt' pay attention to details or even the other pictures as all the other ones I had seen were glaring white.

 but was it a good price nontheless? he gave me a discount on shipping.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_heh.. you know what? that was the one i won.

 and well, i was too happy when i saw the first pic and i thought it looked gold like the sr-5nb i had seen, but the yellow flash deceived me, and well i didnt' pay attention to details or even the other pictures as all the other ones I had seen were glaring white.

 but was it a good price nontheless? he gave me a discount on shipping._

 

That was a fair price for the SR-5, but the SR-5NB are *black housing with gold trim*. So even a yellowish color to the white housing shouldn't be mistaken for the gold edition. 

 I was recently told by an eBay seller with no pics that he was selling a black SR-5 with gold trim, but instead he shipped me a normal white SR-5 for $112. For $112 it made me think I had the deal of the century on SR-5NB gold edition, till I opened the package and found he'd lied to me. The SR-5 are crisp and clear, but don't have the extra bass impact of the SR-5 gold edition. Soon after I got them I was selling them for the $112 + 8 shipping, but I sold them to -=Germania=- for much less than I paid as thanks for her building my son's millett starving student amp. Then the seller decided to partially refund me $40 for the "misunderstanding, so I only lost $10 on the deal in the end.

 To powertoold - if you want more bass try to find a SR-5NB gold edition or Lambda Signature or Koss ESP950 to run on the SRM-T1S, and sell the SRM-1 with the Lambda Pro. Those will give you bass on the level of an RS-1 However, the O2 Mk2 has more bass impact than any of those and it's more like the bass on a D2000. And, the D2 Viper with the right opamps is a very good source as external soundcard. Try the LM6172 with THS4032 to feed the stax, and bass will improve.


----------



## eruditass

yeah, i've realized that now after looking at sr-5nb pictures more closely. heh good thing i didn't sell these phones cuz they would've been falsely listed too!

 what other differences are there besides more bass? i heard the sr-5nb has a thinner sr-x mk3 diaphragm.. does that mean clearer highs and speed? soundstage?

 and how does the sr-x mk3 compare?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah, i've realized that now after looking at sr-5nb pictures more closely.

 what other differences are there besides more bass? i heard the sr-5nb has a thinner sr-x mk3 diaphragm.. does that mean clearer highs and speed? soundstage?

 and how does the sr-x mk3 compare?_

 

The $112 you paid is actually a good deal for the set. I'm assuming it's in good condition too. The last SR-5 set I saw on eBay ended at $142 + shipping. Also, on Audiogon, there have been sets that went for $200+.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To powertoold - if you want more bass try to find a SR-5NB gold edition or Lambda Signature or Koss ESP950 to run on the SRM-T1S, and sell the SRM-1 with the Lambda Pro. Those will give you bass on the level of an RS-1 However, the O2 Mk2 has more bass impact than any of those and it's more like the bass on a D2000. And, the D2 Viper with the right opamps is a very good source as external soundcard. Try the LM6172 with THS4032 to feed the stax, and bass will improve._

 

Thanks for the advice

 I was so disappointed with the Stax. I was hoping that it would sound 90% of live so that I wouldn't have to spend money on going to concerts anymore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no, I still think my FreQ custom IEMs sound better. The bass impact of my FreQs is like 2-4 times better than the Stax, and the FreQs are a tiny IEM! I'd say eight out of ten times I use my FreQs, I go "wow, this rocks". I didn't get that feeling at all with the Stax. 

 I'm afraid in the future I'd have to go to speakers to replicate any sort of live sound. Speakers are too expensive and disruptive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll probably stick with my FreQs for now as they rock for most of my listening and TV watching.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the advice

 I was so disappointed with the Stax. I was hoping that it would sound 90% of live so that I wouldn't have to spend money on going to concerts anymore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no, I still think my FreQ custom IEMs sound better. The bass impact of my FreQs is like 2-4 times better than the Stax, and the FreQs are a tiny IEM! I'd say eight out of ten times I use my FreQs, I go "wow, this rocks". I didn't get that feeling at all with the Stax. 

 I'm afraid in the future I'd have to go to speakers to replicate any sort of live sound. Speakers are too expensive and disruptive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll probably stick with my FreQs for now as they rock for most of my listening and TV watching._

 

Probably a wise decision unless you want to spend a lot more money on better grade and newer stats. As you already know, your source material is also suspect. You may want to spend time listening to set-ups at meets or at dealers to get a better feel for what you may really like. 

 Several years ago I was at an audio show and heard one set-up which was just so much better than anything else in the show that it became my basic reference. It was a hybrid electrostatic speaker system with dynamic woofers. That really set me on the road to stats speakers and headphones.

 One thing you miss with IEM's is the involvement of the pinna. Shooting sound straight down the ear canal is quite unnatural and even though many such systems can sound pretty good in terms of frequency response and dynamics, they lack the subtle ear effects of the pinna. 

 Actually even most regular headphones have this problem since while they may stimulate the pinna they still shoot much sound straight down the ear canal. As far as I am aware only the Stax Sigmas (long out of production) and the AKG 1000 (also o o p)give a natural flow of sound, past the ear canal with sound being reflected into the ear canal. You might want to try a set of Sigmas to see if that is what you are missing. Your amp should be able to run both the low bias and the pro models. There are more low bias than pros up for sale.


----------



## powertoold

The HEAudio Jade was holding my interest for a while, but after derekbmn said the Jade has less bass quantity than the Lambda Pros, I was really turned off. 

 I may get it anyway since there's a nice return policy, but wow, how can anything have less bass quantity than the Lambda Pros?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah, i've realized that now after looking at sr-5nb pictures more closely. heh good thing i didn't sell these phones cuz they would've been falsely listed too!

 what other differences are there besides more bass? i heard the sr-5nb has a thinner sr-x mk3 diaphragm.. does that mean clearer highs and speed? soundstage?

 and how does the sr-x mk3 compare?_

 

Both pairs of SR-5NB I had (sold one to SACD-man) were more sparkly in the highs, and more dynamic than normal SR-5 (or SR-3) as well as more punchy.

 The SR-X Mk3 that I heard at the Colorado head-fi meet sounded like my remaining pair of SR-5NB but with a little less soundstage. I still enjoyed their frequency balance. These two phones use the same driver, but I don't know what the differences are.


----------



## Victor Chew

Powertoold, I have tried my stax set-up (SRM T1s and 717) as follows:

 1. Imod with Valgrind sonicaps (4.7uF plus bypass) with Valgrind LOD to RCA direct to both my T1s and 717;
 2. As in no.1 but through my portable iqube;
 3. Phillips and Sony DVD player;
 4. Koala Tube CD player with RCA; and
 5. As with No. 5 but through XLR.

 I used both my O2 mk 1 and LNS for headphones/speakphones.

 For me, configuration No.1 and No. 2 the sound lacked dynamics and sounded slow, restless and lacked involvement. In everyway a great injustice to my stax setup. I needed to put up the volume knob past 1 o'clock to get decent volume. 
 No. 3 was much better and the music was able to florish to a certain extent. However, the dynamics was still missing. Volume knob had to be about 10 to get decent volume. When I cranked it up higher, the music became "shouty".
 No. 4 was and is great. The music just flowed like liquid. Dynamics jumped out and the music was exciting, lively and involving. I now only have my volume knob at 9 o'clock to achieve the same volume as No. 1 to No. 3 at the respective stated volumes.
 Stax is extremely revealing and will quickly show weakness in your chain. They will quickly tell you if your source is up to scratch. I thank Spritzer for sharing the source problem with me and agree totally with him that if a source lacks the gain, the stax setup will sound "sleepy".
 No. 5 - after I used the XLR, I did not go back to RCA again.

 To be fair, I used configuration No 1 and No 2 temporarily until I got my Koala Tube. It was not entirely unlistenable, but I knew that the stax was just not showing what it was capable of doing in a much better way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I take it you held onto *some* XF2s and found an alternate universe with 2sa1968s 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I have a few sets of XF2's and the 1968's aren't that hard to source... at least compared to the k389. The only things wrong with the old design were complexity and lack of ultimate power into the SR-007 so feed the old amp section from the new HV PSU's under development with a Sigma22 doing LV duty and the new bias supply and the BHSE is in trouble. The good part is that the BHSE PSU is also separate so it can be removed...


----------



## Victor Chew

Spritzer, your dream speaker is in audiogon looking for a new home - the stax f83. Only US$3000!!!

AudiogoN ForSale: Stax Loudspeakers els f-83 full range


----------



## spritzer

I'd like to buy it but it climbs to 6k$ real fast since it has to be refurbished.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to buy it but it climbs to 6k$ real fast since it has to be refurbished._

 

Even if there was no need to refurbish it, the shipping cost would be estronomical - 80 pounds per speaker excluding packaging. This beast operates at 4ohms. Every watt out of the amp, I believe, will be reduced by half. High current is a prerequisit. Great speaker if you have very deep pockets, amongst other things, for a power horse high quality amp!


----------



## spritzer

They do dip below 1ohm and with sensitivity in the 73dB/1w range they really need a beast of an amp or a very well designed tube amp. A Quad ESL57 is less of an hassle and quite a bit cheaper.


----------



## minivan

OMG, i saw a pair of these speaker in the local ebay not long ago,the seller want pick up only and he live in the same city as i am, the price ended just over 1k aud, which is about 600 usd
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Stax-ELS-F83-...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a few sets of XF2's and the 1968's aren't that hard to source... at least compared to the k389. The only things wrong with the old design were complexity and lack of ultimate power into the SR-007 so feed the old amp section from the new HV PSU's under development with a Sigma22 doing LV duty and the new bias supply and the BHSE is in trouble. The good part is that the BHSE PSU is also separate so it can be removed... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

But you only need two of the k389... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BH plus new source is going to make 2009 a berry berry good year for me


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OMG, i saw a pair of these speaker in the local ebay not long ago,the seller want pick up only and he live in the same city as i am, the price ended just over 1k aud, which is about 600 usd
Stax ELS-F83 Electrostatic Loudspeakers - eBay, Speakers, Audio, Electronics. (end time 27-Aug-08 22:12:10 AEST)_

 

I had a pair of F81 and it costs me a boom of a price to get an amp of sufficient power and quality to make it sing. The question is not so much the price of the speakers but, the price of the amp to drive this beast. Some have given up on them because they just won't sing. And to make them sing well, not everyone is prepared to come out will all that money for an amp. Spritzer is correct when he said that the amp. can go below 1ohm. When it does, it sucks the juice out of the amp and the music starts to choke. And guess what they do make the sound choke quite a bit when moderately demanding music is played. I therefore suspect that they go low on ohm quite often. From experience, I would not touch such a speaker unless I am ready for the costs of the amp.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the advice

 I was so disappointed with the Stax. I was hoping that it would sound 90% of live so that I wouldn't have to spend money on going to concerts anymore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no, I still think my FreQ custom IEMs sound better. The bass impact of my FreQs is like 2-4 times better than the Stax, and the FreQs are a tiny IEM! I'd say eight out of ten times I use my FreQs, I go "wow, this rocks". I didn't get that feeling at all with the Stax. 

 I'm afraid in the future I'd have to go to speakers to replicate any sort of live sound. Speakers are too expensive and disruptive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll probably stick with my FreQs for now as they rock for most of my listening and TV watching._

 

Hmmm, I think stats just won't have enough bass for you. The SR-5NB has roughly the same amount of bass as the lambda pro (the sets I have at least), while the O2 goes much deeper, but doesn't have that much more impact; its all quite enough for me anyway. I don't think any of the dynamics (HD650, ATH-W10VTG) I've owned had that much more bass than my stats though. (both had weaker bass reproduction than the O2)

 @SR-5NB discussion: The SR-5N (an SR-5 with gold trims) is essentially the same headphone as the SR-5NB, but white.


----------



## progo

Hello again. 
 Now that I've owned my 2020 system for a whopping fortnight I've started eyeing the old SRM-T1S + Lambda Nova Signature offering someone had. I asked about it back then. €850 is still quite much (current rate: $1070), but I was going to ask that set for €650 or €700. Before I do/did anything, I searched info and comparisons between the 202 and LNS. No matches, really, but something.

 What I gathered is that some prefer it to the other Lambda 'phones, ie that they would be the best of Λ series. And some think the SR-202 is indeed the worst, so there should be a wide-sh gap and improvement here. The better reason for this likely upgrade is the amplifier that looks cool and probably performs very good. 

 I don't probably buy anything yet since the thing doesn't fit on my desktop and being tubed it warms a lot and so on. But some have heard both of these phones with their 'associated' amps or with same amp. How are the differences? Trust me, I didn't like to ask such a redundant question but there wasn't anything solid in this thread.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But you only need two of the k389... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BH plus new source is going to make 2009 a berry berry good year for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

True but they are unobtainable for the most part which the a1968 isn't. I've got a nice stash of both so I'm good to go... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I should get the BHSE soon and with so many other amps in the works 2009 will be a very good year. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a pair of F81 and it costs me a boom of a price to get an amp of sufficient power and quality to make it sing. The question is not so much the price of the speakers but, the price of the amp to drive this beast. Some have given up on them because they just won't sing. And to make them sing well, not everyone is prepared to come out will all that money for an amp. Spritzer is correct when he said that the amp. can go below 1ohm. When it does, it sucks the juice out of the amp and the music starts to choke. And guess what they do make the sound choke quite a bit when moderately demanding music is played. I therefore suspect that they go low on ohm quite often. From experience, I would not touch such a speaker unless I am ready for the costs of the amp._

 

There is a reason Stax came up with those monster 600W SS monoblocks which could weld the speaker cables together. Speakers are no different from headphones in needing a good amps but speakers have the edge here since a lot of the crap that poses for high end here would never be tolerated on the speaker side.


----------



## Victor Chew

Personally, I would not go down that road again.


----------



## spritzer

Full range ESL's have come a long way since the Stax F series and something like the Sound Lab Pro-stat is good enough to be used for stadiums and the like. Teflon coated diaphragms and very stiff and well insulated wire stators make that possible. Even though they use tricks to make them more efficient they still need lot of power and not just voltage. The lower the impedance, the more current you need so the voltage doesn't sag.


----------



## krmathis

Nice to see more people joining the non-existent *Stax Team*! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Some nice deals as well...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello again. 
 Now that I've owned my 2020 system for a whopping fortnight I've started eyeing the old SRM-T1S + Lambda Nova Signature offering someone had. I asked about it back then. €850 is still quite much (current rate: $1070), but I was going to ask that set for €650 or €700. Before I do/did anything, I searched info and comparisons between the 202 and LNS. No matches, really, but something.

 What I gathered is that some prefer it to the other Lambda 'phones, ie that they would be the best of Λ series. And some think the SR-202 is indeed the worst, so there should be a wide-sh gap and improvement here. The better reason for this likely upgrade is the amplifier that looks cool and probably performs very good. 

 I don't probably buy anything yet since the thing doesn't fit on my desktop and being tubed it warms a lot and so on. But some have heard both of these phones with their 'associated' amps or with same amp. How are the differences? Trust me, I didn't like to ask such a redundant question but there wasn't anything solid in this thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don´t know how solid this is going to be, but it is certainly going to be subjective.

 I have owned the 2020 system and many of the Stax combinations since I bought my first Staxes in 1983. ( notable exceptions = Sigmas and the T2 amp ). You can see in my signature what I am currently using. I am now on my second set with LNS. The first was with the T1 amp. There is no audible difference between the amps, the only difference being the balanced input of the T1S.
 To me the LNS are the best Lambdas. They do not have the pronounced "treble lift" of the Signatures. The are very neutral driven by the 717 amp and very seductive (warm and pleasant - but still very detailed and dynamic) driven by the T1S. They are the Lambdas that comes closest to the personality of the 007 Mk1.

 The difference to the 202 (recalling from memory here!): more details and hence more soundstage cues. Smother treble. My guess is that the 202 would perform much better with a better amp. Maybe you could try hooking them up to another amp before making a decision.

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I fed the amplifiers with my portable iBasso D2 Viper using a silver core mini > RCA interconnect, and a lot of you will pounce on me and instantly think I'm an idiot...

 once I get my Zero DAC, which is a Chinese product, so again, many of you will think I'm an idiot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

What kind of music do you listen to? For my musical tastes, which often consists of lots of acoutic music, vocals, jazz, chamber music, but also a healthy dose of rock, pop, metal, and dance when mood strikes, there is no replacement for good 'stats. 

 This is only true if *every* component, interconnect, power cable, tube, coupling cap, and even footers are dialed in *just right."


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don´t know how solid this is going to be, but it is certainly going to be subjective.

 I have owned the 2020 system and many of the Stax combinations since I bought my first Staxes in 1983. ( notable exceptions = Sigmas and the T2 amp ). You can see in my signature what I am currently using. I am now on my second set with LNS. The first was with the T1 amp. There is no audible difference between the amps, the only difference being the balanced input of the T1S.
 To me the LNS are the best Lambdas. They do not have the pronounced "treble lift" of the Signatures. The are very neutral driven by the 717 amp and very seductive (warm and pleasant - but still very detailed and dynamic) driven by the T1S. They are the Lambdas that comes closest to the personality of the 007 Mk1.

 The difference to the 202 (recalling from memory here!): more details and hence more soundstage cues. Smother treble. My guess is that the 202 would perform much better with a better amp. Maybe you could try hooking them up to another amp before making a decision._

 

Thanks for describing them. I don't know about that treble lift of Signatures but I do know the 202s sound bit recessed on treble for my taste. It isn't bad if they don't go even more down than that. With that description alone I should try and listen to the combo indeed.

 It's quite hard for me to try listening the 202s with another amp since there are no markets here and ordering some just to check isn't that good an option. I got a buyer for the 2020 setup already so if nothing goes wrong...


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon L* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of music do you listen to? For my musical tastes, which often consists of lots of acoutic music, vocals, jazz, chamber music, but also a healthy dose of rock, pop, metal, and dance when mood strikes, there is no replacement for good 'stats. 

 This is only true if *every* component, interconnect, power cable, tube, coupling cap, and even footers are dialed in *just right."_

 

I love symphonic music, and the impact of a live concert is just not there. I can hear the drums and bass, but the impact is lacking. Maybe I made a poor first decision to go with the Lambda Pros. I may get the new HEAudio Jade and give it another try with all my sources


----------



## Victor Chew

Anyone knows whether it is possible to use the stax pro outputs for dynamic headphones? Perhaps some adaptor or the like? Thinking aloud - since stax headphones are of relatively hign impedance, driving dynamic headphones should pose a smaller challenge except that there will be no be need to feed power to any electromagnets.


----------



## gp_hebert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love symphonic music, and the impact of a live concert is just not there. I can hear the drums and bass, but the impact is lacking. Maybe I made a poor first decision to go with the Lambda Pros. I may get the new HEAudio Jade and give it another try with all my sources 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You'll never find an experience close to a live classical concert with headphones. Doesn't matter whether it's dynamic or electrostatic, the basic design of headphones simply doesn't provide the same impact and soundstage as speakers, let alone a real concert. From my experience, headphones sound slightly more realistic with intimate music like jazz and chamber music than with big symphonies, but it's still a in-your-head sound and not what you'd expect to hear at a concert.

 With that said, headphones are awesome at what they do and it's possible that you don't like the Lambda Pro sound, but you'll spend a lot of money and will come back with empty hands if you try to replicate the sound of a live classical concert with headphones. Your money would be much better invested in speakers if that's what you seek. On the other hand, if you stay in the headphones world, my opinion is that you'll have a hard time finding something better than the Stax line for classical music, but YMMV.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You'll never find an experience close to a live classical concert with headphones. Doesn't matter whether it's dynamic or electrostatic, the basic design of headphones simply doesn't provide the same impact and soundstage as speakers, let alone a real concert. From my experience, headphones sound slightly more realistic with intimate music like jazz and chamber music than with big symphonies, but it's still a in-your-head sound and not what you'd expect to hear at a concert.

 With that said, headphones are awesome at what they do and it's possible that you don't like the Lambda Pro sound, but you'll spend a lot of money and will come back with empty hands if you try to replicate the sound of a live classical concert with headphones. Your money would be much better invested in speakers if that's what you seek. On the other hand, if you stay in the headphones world, my opinion is that you'll have a hard time finding something better than the Stax line for classical music, but YMMV._

 

Actually, I'm fine with the closed in feeling of headphones. The thing that is bugging me is I don't feel some of the instruments with the Lambda Pros. For example, in live concerts, you can feel the force and air waves of a saxophone, a french horn, or a bass drum. I can actually feel it with my FreQ custom IEMs. Each instrument produces a different feel in my ear, and so the experience is both aural and tactile. 

 This is how it is in live concerts. When you have a saxophone playing in front of you, you can feel the sound waves. Of course, with live concerts, the tactile sensations go through your whole body, but with headphones, it's only in or near your ear. The Lambda Pro setup I tried didn't have that sort of impact, especially with bass instruments.

 I would love to use speakers, but they are too loud and expensive, and I'm usually living with other people.


----------



## The Monkey

^Perhaps you just don't like 'stats? But you should try a kickass source with them when you get a chance.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^Perhaps you just don't like 'stats? But you should try a kickass source with them when you get a chance._

 

x2


----------



## tommytomickey




----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You'll never find an experience close to a live classical concert with headphones. Doesn't matter whether it's dynamic or electrostatic, the basic design of headphones simply doesn't provide the same impact and soundstage as speakers, let alone a real concert. From my experience, headphones sound slightly more realistic with intimate music like jazz and chamber music than with big symphonies, but it's still a in-your-head sound and not what you'd expect to hear at a concert.

 With that said, headphones are awesome at what they do and it's possible that you don't like the Lambda Pro sound, but you'll spend a lot of money and will come back with empty hands if you try to replicate the sound of a live classical concert with headphones. Your money would be much better invested in speakers if that's what you seek. On the other hand, if you stay in the headphones world, my opinion is that you'll have a hard time finding something better than the Stax line for classical music, but YMMV._

 

I more or less agree with your second paragraph, but not at all with your first. 

 The imaging of phones is far more accurate than speakers mostly because they don't have the phantom channels of speakers in which the left channel feeds both the left and right ears and vv. These cross channels are, plain and simply artifacts, which degrade the soundstage image. Some speaker systems such as my old Polk SDA's provide cancellation signals to get rid of the phantoms and their sound is much more precisely localized. When I first heard this set-up my thought was they sound like headphones.

 I personally find that even the lambdas give a good concert hall effect with classical instrumental music. I find both my Lambda Nova and 404 excellent with orchestral music. I don't see a problem with bass heft with this kind of music. A rock concert maybe but you don't get booming bass in a concert hall with live music. Also as in noted above you need a good source for the Stax amp to shine. For example I use the beefed up PSA separate power supply with my Musical Fidelity x24K DAC and this "bulks up" the sound quite a bit.

 I was at Puccini's Madama Butterfly in LA last week and at no point did I feel the live sound was superior to my phones. ( The stage production was quasi-Kabuki and sucked big time, but that is another matter) A few months earlier I had heard Verdi's Otello in the same hall and the only time the live sound was better was with the orchestra and chorus at full volume. One waited for the high level distortion and it never came, surprise, surprise, because it was live unamplified music.

 The SR007A has better dynamics than the lambdas and gives even better performance on crescendos.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I more or less agree with your second paragraph, but not at all with your first. 

 The imaging of phones is far more accurate than speakers mostly because they don't have the phantom channels of speakers in which the left channel feeds both the left and right ears and vv. These cross channels are, plain and simply artifacts, which degrade the soundstage image. Some speaker systems such as my old Polk SDA's provide cancellation signals to get rid of the phantoms and their sound is much more precisely localized. When I first heard this set-up my thought was they sound like headphones.

 I personally find that even the lambdas give a good concert hall effect with classical instrumental music. I find both my Lambda Nova and 404 excellent with orchestral music. I don't see a problem with bass heft with this kind of music. A rock concert maybe but you don't get booming bass in a concert hall with live music. Also as in noted above you need a good source for the Stax amp to shine. For example I use the beefed up PSA separate power supply with my Musical Fidelity x24K DAC and this "bulks up" the sound quite a bit.

 I was at Puccini's Madama Butterfly in LA last week and at no point did I feel the live sound was superior to my phones. ( The stage production was quasi-Kabuki and sucked big time, but that is another matter) A few months earlier I had heard Verdi's Otello in the same hall and the only time the live sound was better was with the orchestra and chorus at full volume. One waited for the high level distortion and it never came, surprise, surprise, because it was live unamplified music.

 The SR007A has better dynamics than the lambdas and gives even better performance on crescendos._

 

I agree, and I still use my Polk SDA CRS 23 years later as my bedroom 2 channel speakers.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One waited for the high level distortion and it never came, surprise, surprise, because it was live unamplified music.

 The SR007A has better dynamics than the lambdas and gives even better performance on crescendos._

 

What sort of volume are you listening with your headphones? lol I don't think I've listened at such a volume to hear driver or amp distortion.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

how big a deal is the inner foam being disintegrated on a set of sr-lambdas. does this need to be replaced? or is it really just cosmetic.


----------



## spritzer

The Zero Dac is a pretty awful source (I have one gathering dust here) having all the right characteristics of a cheap and nasty digital. Try a modified Sony PS1 instead. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone knows whether it is possible to use the stax pro outputs for dynamic headphones? Perhaps some adaptor or the like? Thinking aloud - since stax headphones are of relatively hign impedance, driving dynamic headphones should pose a smaller challenge except that there will be no be need to feed power to any electromagnets._

 

Stax don't have a relatively high impedance... they have a very high impedance or around 170k at 10kHz. The impedance graph is like a roller coaster though with the bass and treble dipping very low. They are high voltage/low current designs just like tube amps which need output transformers to step down the voltage and step up the current. Something like the Stax transformers would therefor be needed but with different ratios to compensate for the varying impedance of dynamic headphones (16-600ohm).


----------



## Victor Chew

Are you therefore saying you can't just plug some adaptor to use a SE for any dynamic headphones? That will be sad.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how big a deal is the inner foam being disintegrated on a set of sr-lambdas. does this need to be replaced? or is it really just cosmetic._

 

Not a big deal at all. It happens to all of them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you therefore saying you can't just plug some adaptor to use a SE for any dynamic headphones? That will be sad._

 

A simple cable adapter would kill both the headphones and the amp in an instant. Since a moving coil has nothing in common with an ES drivers they can't work together unless you step down the voltage and up the impedance which the amp sees.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A simple cable adapter would kill both the headphones and the amp in an instant. Since a moving coil has nothing in common with an ES drivers they can't work together unless you step down the voltage and up the impedance which the amp sees._

 

A kind of reverse transformer. Interesting...


----------



## naamanf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A kind of reverse transformer. Interesting..._

 

It would still be a regular transformer


----------



## Sherwood

Touche.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Zero Dac is a pretty awful source (I have one gathering dust here) having all the right characteristics of a cheap and nasty digital. Try a modified Sony PS1 instead._

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll see what happens!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What sort of volume are you listening with your headphones? lol I don't think I've listened at such a volume to hear driver or amp distortion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What I am saying is that untill you hear good live sound done loud, you don't realize what distortion still exists even in the best equipment. The Otello passage in question had a nearly full-size symphonic orchestra (opera orchestras are usually smaller unless it's Wagner although Verdi's orchestra is bigger and louder than say a Mozart orchestra) about 40 choristers and about 6 soloists, all belting it out. It is a major challenge for even the best system, speakers or phones, to make that sound completely natural, and I am not even sure if any recording process is up to the task either especially in terms of intermodulation distortion. 

 Sure recording playback can be good but there are still limitations. What struck me, aside from the sheer volume of sound, was how clear everything was compared to a recording.


----------



## -=Germania=-

I know that this is off topic. 

 If anyone has a spare Normal Bias extension cable or preferably some of the old 6 pin Stax style male connectors I would appreciate a PM. (already posted in the FS Forums)

 Thanks!


----------



## Sherwood

AudioCats was selling one recently, Germania. His post is old, but if I remember correctly it never sold. You might try PMing him.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know that this is off topic. 

 If anyone has a spare Normal Bias extension cable or preferably some of the old 6 pin Stax style male connectors I would appreciate a PM. (already posted in the FS Forums)

 Thanks!_

 

I have a bag of male & female WPI connectors from allied, and can be talked into selling some of them. Since you have to buy half a dozen of each to make allied's minimum order these days.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Thanks a Bunch ericj !

 I really appreciate it. 
 Since the stock cable had problems, I wanted to simply alleviate any potential future issues as soon as possible. 

 Thanks again!


----------



## Sherwood

I just got outbid on an auction for a factory removed pro cable from Australia. That would have been nice to have.


----------



## -=Germania=-

DIY is the best friend with a gambling/drug habit you can have. though having an extra cable around I imagine would be nice...unfortunately no one makes the normal bias ones anymore.


----------



## Sherwood

True. At least it's easier to find 300 volt wire than the 600v you need for the pros.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True. At least it's easier to find 300 volt wire than the 600v you need for the pros._

 

lol, you got outbid by vvs75, who is a DIYer on Head-Fi. I think they went for $45 shipped, which is pretty high for a cable from a $250 headphone!


----------



## Coreyk78

UPS guy just dropped these off today, my first Stax! won these on Ebay last weekend after I got outbid at the last second on an SR-5 setup. They look just like new and still had all the little plastic baggies on everything. Sound pretty nice too, except I'm only using an old Onkyo TX1500 MKII receiver to power them right now which only puts out 17w per channel right now, until I build an LM1875 gainclone specifically to run these. Definitely sound different than dynamics, lots of detail and soundstage


----------



## Sherwood

I would think 17 wpc would be plenty of juice to run electrets, but the gainclone may well sound better anyways


----------



## powertoold

Can the electrets be plugged into the normal bias slot of a normal Stax amp?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol, you got outbid by vvs75, who is a DIYer on Head-Fi. I think they went for $45 shipped, which is pretty high for a cable from a $250 headphone!_

 

That's the guy that built my 24v Sigma 11 - good quality work too!


----------



## powertoold

Well, I got a SCPH-1001 Playstation as recommended by spritzer. I compared the PS1 -> iBasso D2 -> FreQs to my laptop headphone out, and I prefer my laptop 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Playstation has a smooth sound at the expense of high frequencies and spaciousness (which is usually a function of highs). Since it's smooth, the sound is unfatiguing and easy to listen to for long periods. 

 Personally, I'm looking for something that doesn't cut anything out, and although some people may prefer the smooth sound of the Playstation, I'm not looking for an enjoyable music experience; I'm looking for a realistic music experience, which is what audiophiles strive for 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's possible that the Playstation has synergy with the Lambda Pros, so I'll try it with the Lambdas next week along with my Zero DAC.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can the electrets be plugged into the normal bias slot of a normal Stax amp?_

 

Yes - the electrets don't need the bias and those pins aren't connected in the phones.


----------



## AudioCats

one quick question.... do the Lambda and Sigma use the same drivers? 

 Thanks


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know that this is off topic. 

 If anyone has a spare Normal Bias extension cable or preferably some of the old 6 pin Stax style male connectors I would appreciate a PM. (already posted in the FS Forums)

 Thanks!_

 

do you want it for the wire or just the 6-pin? 

 for pro-voltage wire I have a set of 10' _coiled_ cable I can get rid off, previously from a ESP10 which is high voltage biased (but you still need to terminated to Stax style, Koss pin out is different). 

 or there is still the SR-3 cable set, but it is the cloth covered older style.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one quick question.... do the Lambda and Sigma use the same drivers?_

 

From what I have read, these phones share the same drivers:
 SR-Lambda <-> SR-Sigma
 SR-Lambda Signature <-> SR-Sigma Pro

 So, yes they do.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one quick question.... do the Lambda and Sigma use the same drivers? 

 Thanks_

 

Same design but the normal bias drivers aren't interchangeable without some modification.


----------



## AudioCats

Thanks!


----------



## -=Germania=-

Thanks Audiocats, 

 I just needed the plug as I have some wire that handles 300V. Just wanted to put a newer cable on to prevent future issues.


----------



## powertoold

Hey Germania, how do you like your Lambdas compared to your FreQs in terms of sound? Are they worlds apart? Have their own positives and negatives?

 Thanks!


----------



## -=Germania=-

Well....

 The Lambdas have the edge in nearly all ways. 

 The FreQ's are great in their own right and give me dynamics and a sense of intimacy that I had not had with any headphone I have tried. They do need a good amp to reach their potential and IMO do scale well with better amps. I won't comment on the cable difference because of the obvious implications. 

 The Lambdas are like being in rafters above the orchestra in a concert hall or akin to listening in a old cathedral. The air, speed, and detail of these are hard to beat. The effortless quality of electrostatics makes them able to be listened to for hours. 

 They are very different from one another, but I like them for different reasons. However, I am a soundstage person (My main hoem phones are the Lambdas, QP85, and CD1000 w/mods) and when I have the home system, I am listening to the home system. 

 The Lamdas do have more detail - but not much. Keep in mind that my FreQ's have an aftermarket cable of my making, using a very nice amp, and an LOD of my making. Though, I wouldn't consider the portable setup to be even close to the equivalently priced home setup.

 As a pure listening experience, I think the that Lambda's are better and give a much more realistic presentation. In my mind, the closest headphone to the FreQ that is full sized in the Ultrasone PL2500. If you would like to borrow the Ultrasone's for a week or so, let me know. I will be selling them in not too long and it may well give you an opprotunity to hear something you enjoy.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well....

 The Lambdas have the edge in nearly all ways. 

 The FreQ's are great in their own right and give me dynamics and a sense of intimacy that I had not had with any headphone I have tried. They do need a good amp to reach their potential and IMO do scale well with better amps. I won't comment on the cable difference because of the obvious implications. 

 The Lambdas are like being in rafters above the orchestra in a concert hall or akin to listening in a old cathedral. The air, speed, and detail of these are hard to beat. The effortless quality of electrostatics makes them able to be listened to for hours. 

 They are very different from one another, but I like them for different reasons. However, I am a soundstage person (My main hoem phones are the Lambdas, QP85, and CD1000 w/mods) and when I have the home system, I am listening to the home system. 

 The Lamdas do have more detail - but not much. Keep in mind that my FreQ's have an aftermarket cable of my making, using a very nice amp, and an LOD of my making. Though, I wouldn't consider the portable setup to be even close to the equivalently priced home setup.

 As a pure listening experience, I think the that Lambda's are better and give a much more realistic presentation. In my mind, the closest headphone to the FreQ that is full sized in the Ultrasone PL2500. If you would like to borrow the Ultrasone's for a week or so, let me know. I will be selling them in not too long and it may well give you an opprotunity to hear something you enjoy._

 

I think the Lambdas are a good replacement for the PL2500 you bought from me. I spent some time today with Sherwood's SRM-T1 amp and the SR-Lambda, and that is enough to keep anyone happy for a long time without upgrading (much better than with my old SRM-1 Mk2 Pro driving them). The O2 didn't fare as well with the STM-T1 amp, and it seems anything less than the Woo GES Maxed or SRD-7 Pro with good speaker amp just isn't enough.

 I know Spritzer, you told me so. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Even with the Woo GES maxed the O2 don't make a good electronica and trance headphone, although reproducing anything like a real instrument with wood or reeds or keys or strings and vocals sound wonderful with them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know Spritzer, you told me so. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Even with the Woo GES maxed the O2 don't make a good electronica and trance headphone, although reproducing anything like a real instrument with wood or reeds or keys or strings and vocals sound wonderful with them._

 

Being maxed only helps it let more information through but doesn't do anything to the amount of power on tap. For that you need something like a 717 for starters and the sky being the limit


----------



## The Monkey

I had been hoping to hear that the GES paired well with the O2...


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Being maxed only helps it let more information through but doesn't do anything to the amount of power on tap. For that you need something like a 717 for starters and the sky being the limit_

 

I couldn't agree more with Spritzer. In my 28 years of hifi experience which was a long, painful and expensive journey for me, I have finally come to the conclusion that power is the corner stone required to make a system sing. With power, one may not necessarily have to twig this and that with expensive stuff to get what one is looking for. This however, is only my opinion.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had been hoping to hear that the GES paired well with the O2..._

 

That's what I've been hearing. There is hope though that the new Woo amp will be a different story and it should do better with properly driven EL34's.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I couldn't agree more with Spritzer. In my 28 years of hifi experience which was a long, painful and expensive journey for me, I have finally come to the conclusion that power is the corner stone required to make a system sing. With power, one may not necessarily have to twig this and that with expensive stuff to get what one is looking for. This however, is only my opinion._

 

A good amount of quality power solves a lot of problems and is one of reasons why balanced headphones are so popular here.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Being maxed only helps it let more information through but doesn't do anything to the amount of power on tap. For that you need something like a 717 for starters and the sky being the limit_

 

Agreed!


----------



## lisnalee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I've been hearing. There is hope though that the *new Woo amp* will be a different story and it should do better with properly driven EL34's._

 

Is there a new wooaudio Stat amp on the horizon?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lisnalee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there a new wooaudio Stat amp on the horizon?_

 

Yes. Pricey, though.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my mind, the closest headphone to the FreQ that is full sized in the Ultrasone PL2500. If you would like to borrow the Ultrasone's for a week or so, let me know. I will be selling them in not too long and it may well give you an opprotunity to hear something you enjoy._

 

Thanks for your input! I'm satisfied with my FreQs, but the new gadget addiction has me emptying my wallet on minor improvements 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll give the electrostatics some more time. Hopefully they click, and I come to love them!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Personally, I'm looking for something that doesn't cut anything out, and although some people may prefer the smooth sound of the Playstation, I'm not looking for an enjoyable music experience; I'm looking for a realistic music experience, which is what audiophiles strive for 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's possible that the Playstation has synergy with the Lambda Pros, so I'll try it with the Lambdas next week along with my Zero DAC._

 

Until you upgrade your source, I think your experience will be the same.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I don't want anyone to misunderstand me - I like the GES maxed. It sounds good with everything, including HE60, ESP950, SR-Lambda and Signature, SR-003 and SR-007 mk 2. It is neutral and detailed and accurate and transparent, and portrays real instruments in a life like manner. It has as much power as an SRD-7 Pro driven by a clean 12watt/channel amp. And it is again more detailed and transparent and definded/refined than the prototype that has been making it's rounds at various meets. 

 It just doesn't have to power to blast very loud music with the O2 mk2, so an Edition 9 or Denon 7000 with Woo WA6 is a better choice for electronica. I think it controls the drivers very well all normal volumes.


----------



## -=Germania=-

The Zero DAC, IMO, is not a very good source. It is nice for the money, but it just doesn't compete with a Zhaolu with some cheap/minor mods done to it. It my ears, it sounds very digital and not natural. Take that as you will....source first.

 I am a very budget and bottom line concerned person and even so....
 The Auzen Cinema sounds better than the Marantz in terms of detail and the Marantz is smoother and less aggressive.
 Both are feeding digital input to the DAC.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Zero DAC, IMO, is not a very good source. It is nice for the money, but it just doesn't compete with a Zhaolu with some cheap/minor mods done to it. It my ears, it sounds very digital and not natural. Take that as you will....source first.

 I am a very budget and bottom line concerned person and even so....
 The Auzen Cinema sounds better than the Marantz in terms of detail and the Marantz is smoother and less aggressive.
 Both are feeding digital input to the DAC._

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out and see how it does 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's odd; there's a lot of people in the Zero thread saying it's a good DAC. Then, when I come in here, everyone seems to dislike it hehe.

 I wonder if the people who dislike the Zero have tried to mod the Zero or different opamps/HDAM?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out and see how it does 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's odd; there's a lot of people in the Zero thread saying it's a good DAC. Then, when I come in here, everyone seems to dislike it hehe.

 I wonder if the people who dislike the Zero have tried to mod the Zero or different opamps/HDAM?_

 

You are looking at a different level of requirement here. Some here may have been so deeply "poisoned" that the basic requirement of acceptable sound production is just so "high".


----------



## Coreyk78

I'm wondering, can the SRD-4 be used to power any of the electrostatic Stax?


----------



## -=Germania=-

Victor, 

 Thanks for taking reality into it. 

 Sorry, I spent 8+ hours today (and 3 yesterday) managing 100 girls- talking to girls - running up and down stairs - orchestrating girls - singing - and generally spending way too much time with all girls. Seriously love them, but I started to even use such abbreviations like "Tot's = totally" and "Whatevs = Whatever". We read Cosmo and People. My face hurts from smiling so much.... 

 It was just too much happy for one day, so I am sorry for being so curt.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Coreyk78* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm wondering, can the SRD-4 be used to power any of the electrostatic Stax?_

 

I'm almost 100% certain that's a no. The SRD-4 doesn't provide a bias voltage, which all non-electret stax models require.


----------



## Coreyk78

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm almost 100% certain that's a no. The SRD-4 doesn't provide a bias voltage, which all non-electret stax models require._

 

Ok thanks, maybe I could build one of the Gilmore tube electrostatic headamps in the future then so I can get some electrostatics. Always fun to have more DIY projects


----------



## Sherwood

That's absolutely an option. Are you looking at the one the Woo GES is based on, or the one the KGBH is based on? Both are great amps, but the KGBH is widely considered to be the best.


----------



## Coreyk78

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's absolutely an option. Are you looking at the one the Woo GES is based on, or the one the KGBH is based on? Both are great amps, but the KGBH is widely considered to be the best._

 

Well I've only just started doing some googling around to find schematics, this is the design I found http://headwize.com/projects/showfil...ilmore_prj.htm
 I was looking at the AC coupled design, because the apex op amps in the dc coupled design are very expensive. I don't know if this is one of the designs you were referring to, would you have any links to other ones?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Coreyk78* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I've only just started doing some googling around to find schematics, this is the design I found http://http://headwize.com/projects/...ilmore_prj.htm
 I was looking at the AC coupled design, because the apex op amps in the dc coupled design are very expensive. I don't know if this is one of the designs you were referring to, would you have any links to other ones?_

 

That is the one the Woo GES is based on, but Jack Woo says the design was modified for the GES.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Hey Headphone Addict, 

 I don't quite understand your quarrels with the SR-5 as far as bass lacking. The SRD-5 has less bass and less refinement than the SRD-7/SB that I have here to compare it to (did a bit of AB testing) one thing I noticed is that the SR-5 got plenty of bass (at least for me) with the better transformer.


----------



## Kraps

I am sorry if this has already been discussed in the previous 850 pages!

 Is it possible to switch the Japanese SRM-727A(II) to European 230V?


----------



## spritzer

Yes and no, depends on the individual unit. Stax sometimes cuts the 120v windings so neither 120v or 240v operation is possible without some creative soldering.


----------



## Kraps

Thank you, Spritzer! So if I order a unit from Japan I would never know before it comes, and then it might be too late.


----------



## spritzer

The only way to know for sure is to look at the primary wires. It's easy to replace the lead wires but the windings are much harder to jumper.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Headphone Addict, 

 I don't quite understand your quarrels with the SR-5 as far as bass lacking. The SRD-5 has less bass and less refinement than the SRD-7/SB that I have here to compare it to (did a bit of AB testing) one thing I noticed is that the SR-5 got plenty of bass (at least for me) with the better transformer._

 

Well, I tried the normal SR-5 with both my SRD-5 and SRD-6 powered by a Travagans Red 5 watt/ch speaker amp (with AD743 opamps), and with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and Woo GES maxed. I compared the normal SR-5 to my SR-5NB gold edition and felt the normal SR-5 lacked bass with all of the amps. I suppose just got too used to my SR-5NB sound, but the SR-5 had much less bass than my HE60 too.

 I did not try my SRD-7SB with 12 watt/ch Nuforce Icon, and that might have boosted the bass a little. But when I bought the SR-5 on eBay as a spare pair, the seller told me in private message that the SR-5 he listed were black with gold trim and I thought I was buying a spare SR-5NB gold - but he shipped me the normal white and silver SR-5, so I was already disappointed from the get go. The SR-5 were so dirty that the white looked gold, and so he saw black pads and headband with gold cups, that I had to clean till they were white again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have the SRD-7SB in my bedroom with my SRD-7 pro and Nuforce Icon amp, and my son uses the SRD-6 and Travagans Red for his SR-Lambda, so the SR-5/SRD-5 and SRM-1 Mk2 Pro had to go now that my new GES can do normal and pro bias.


----------



## Sherwood

I second HeadphoneAddict's findings regarding the SR-5 bass. In comparison to the SR-5nb it gains nothing, and lacks bass extension and impact.


----------



## -=Germania=-

The SR-5 is not something you would associate with "impact"(the real weakpoint of them in my mind) and the extension is not the best. However, in terms of shear amount, I found that it matches the SR-lambda and has enough of a rumble factor for popular music. Bass monsters = no, but they do have more bass than AKG KX00/1 models I have heard and own. The transformer is being powered by a Sonic Impact Gen 2 amp which is said to have more bass than the Gen1 Version.

 Overall I doubt that you can get better sound from a dynamic of the same price. It would be nice to try the SR-Sigma, Gamma, 5NB, or O2 to compare the bass.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-5 is not something you would associate with "impact"(the real weakpoint of them in my mind) and the extension is not the best. However, in terms of shear amount, I found that it matches the SR-lambda and has enough of a rumble factor for popular music. Bass monsters = no, but they do have more bass than AKG KX00/1 models I have heard and own. The transformer is being powered by a Sonic Impact Gen 2 amp which is said to have more bass than the Gen1 Version.

 Overall I doubt that you can get better sound from a dynamic of the same price. It would be nice to try the SR-Sigma, Gamma, 5NB, or O2 to compare the bass._

 

hmm. My SR-Lamba has more bass.


----------



## -=Germania=-

I have both plugged into the SRD-7SB right now and have been going between the two doing test tracks for the last 30-40min and the quantity is nearly the same, the SR-lambda is deeper. I am using some crappy rap to test it and some test tones. 

 EDIT: It may be something in my setup or just the way it works out with everything. I am a Electrostatic novice at best and it is IMO.


----------



## jp11801

pairing the srd7 pro or any transformer with a marginal amp will result in marginal results. The better the amp the greater the results with any Stax headphones plugged into them. Plugging in a $200 nuforce or other 'entry' level amp will seriously limit SQ. Try a good quality tube or SS amp and the SRD7 can compete with most dedicated stat amps.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp11801* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_pairing the srd7 pro or any transformer with a marginal amp will result in marginal results. The better the amp the greater the results with any Stax headphones plugged into them. Plugging in a $200 nuforce or other 'entry' level amp will seriously limit SQ. Try a good quality tube or SS amp and the SRD7 can compete with most dedicated stat amps._

 

This post is absolutely spot on !

 I am a bit confused as to why I continually see people pairing their SRD-7s with very mediocre amplification, and then try and compare it against a $2000 direct drive E-Stat amp and telling everyone that it can't compete. 

 I'm scratching my head here people.... please help me understand the logic.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp11801* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_pairing the srd7 pro or any transformer with a marginal amp will result in marginal results. The better the amp the greater the results with any Stax headphones plugged into them. Plugging in a $200 nuforce or other 'entry' level amp will seriously limit SQ. Try a good quality tube or SS amp and the SRD7 can compete with most dedicated stat amps._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This post is absolutely spot on !

 I am a bit confused as to why I continually see people pairing their SRD-7s with very mediocre amplification, and then try and compare it against a $2000 direct drive E-Stat amp and telling everyone that it can't compete. 

 I'm scratching my head here people.... please help me understand the logic._

 

I know you can't be talking about me because I'm not complaining about the sound of the Nuforce with SRD-7 Pro or SB, and while I could have gone for a expensive speaker amp I wanted more micro-detail than SRD-7 could provide and went for the $2500 direct drive E-stat amp. I'm keeping the SRD-7's as backups in case of failure, and as a second rig for when I don't have time to warm up the GES. In my case the Nuforce with SRD-7 is anything but marginal - you have to hear it to believe it, and 6moons was right about it this time. With my HE60, the Nuforce/SRD-7 beat my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my HEV70.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With my HE60, the Nuforce/SRD-7 beat my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my HEV70._

 

QFT. I've heard that exact setup, and I could not agree more. All of the attributes that the energizers are noted for, namely macro-level dynamics and visceral impact, are there in force. That was a really nice sounding combo.

 I'm going to do a little test this evening running my SR-Lambdas through my SRD-6SB out of my hotrodded Moscode 300:






 I'm not sure what kind of impedance the SRD-6SB presents, but the moscode will put out 150 watts RMS into 8 ohms with a 75a swing. It is a beast.

 If I don't return, Larry, avenge my death.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I don't return, Larry, avenge my death._

 


 Man, I love your sense of humour. Stax thread here is not just full of info. but a real laugh as well!

 Not just this one, but also about your ability to afford the BHSE if it was made out of jelly beans and card board boxes!!!


----------



## Sherwood

You need a sense of humor to try and find any real info in 572 pages...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp11801* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_pairing the srd7 pro or any transformer with a marginal amp will result in marginal results. The better the amp the greater the results with any Stax headphones plugged into them. Plugging in a $200 nuforce or other 'entry' level amp will seriously limit SQ. Try a good quality tube or SS amp and the SRD7 can compete with most dedicated stat amps._

 

Indeed!
 The result of a SRD-7 Pro -> Stax 'phone system is highly dependent on the quality of the speaker amplifier feeding it. It will scale quite nicely, up to a certain level where the SRD-7 Pro run short.


----------



## tako_tsubo

The difficult part of setting up a good SRD-# set up is to define what is "Marginal" and what is that "up to a certain level".
 Fun trying different amp/recievers...but being mindful that for under $1000 one can just get a used SR717 for an excelllent experience.
 I've been chasing a set up to "perfect" the Sigma with *surprising* results...
 opps gotta run go get a massage!


----------



## Sherwood

Tako, not only do you participate *minimally* in Colorado-fi functions (SW CO? psshhh..) but then you leave me hanging like this.

 Curses.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_QFT. I've heard that exact setup, and I could not agree more. All of the attributes that the energizers are noted for, namely macro-level dynamics and visceral impact, are there in force. That was a really nice sounding combo.

 I'm going to do a little test this evening running my SR-Lambdas through my SRD-6SB out of my hotrodded Moscode 300:





 I'm not sure what kind of impedance the SRD-6SB presents, but the moscode will put out 150 watts RMS into 8 ohms with a 75a swing. It is a beast.

 If I don't return, Larry, avenge my death._

 

If I get to keep your Moscode 300, sure!


----------



## Sherwood

Deal. It will no doubt outlast me.


----------



## bbest

Hi guys!
 I'm from Russia. I wanted to buy STAX. And decide to buy top of their product: STAX 007. But wich amplifier it must have? As for me the choise between 717 and 727. As there is any diference between them? Which is better?
 And another question. Now I have the follow sound section: EMU 1212m + Behringer UB1002 + Bierdinamics 880. Is there will be significant difference between Bierdinamics 880 vs STAX 007?


----------



## Sherwood

Yes, there will be significant differences between the Beyerdynamic 880 and any Stax. The sound is totally different, and I'm sure you'll be pleased.

 The 717 is really a much better amp than the 727, or so say most people on this board. The 717 is the 2nd best amp Stax has ever made, after the T2 (which is impossible to find, and goes for over $5000 when it comes up used).

 The Stax 007 will definitely show you the weaknesses of your system, however. You might eventually want a better source than the 1212M.


----------



## jp11801

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know you can't be talking about me because I'm not complaining about the sound of the Nuforce with SRD-7 Pro or SB, and while I could have gone for a expensive speaker amp I wanted more micro-detail than SRD-7 could provide and went for the $2500 direct drive E-stat amp. I'm keeping the SRD-7's as backups in case of failure, and as a second rig for when I don't have time to warm up the GES. In my case the Nuforce with SRD-7 is anything but marginal - you have to hear it to believe it, and 6moons was right about it this time. With my HE60, the Nuforce/SRD-7 beat my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and my HEV70._

 

actually I owned the nuforce amp and the srd7pro and it was mediocre at best compared with my Berendsen intergrated amp or my ASL power amp with the srd7 pro. Neither of these amps represents best in class performance and both showed significant improvements over the nuforce icon. The bass with the icon is woolly and the details are blurred when compared with better amps, there is no free lunch.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tako, not only do you participate *minimally* in Colorado-fi functions (SW CO? psshhh..) but then you leave me hanging like this.

 Curses._

 

Sherwood, sorry....I do wish that I live'd on the front range...nah! I like it near the mountains or in the mountains, nearby rich farmlands, folks that know my name wherever I am in town, well maybe not that, although it does happen...whatever
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 My sig does reveal the srd 7 with a Teac A H500 integrated amp...and it truely does make the Sigma sound good. It is a pretty neutral speaker amp that translates into the Sigma.

 But the real surprise is that I have read some nice things about gainclone amps...and read further that the Dared MP5 was a hybrid gainclone with a tube preamp. I found a cheap one (165 shipped) and started rolling tubes. I have Brimar 12AU7 tubes in now and they give the Sigma the BEST sound that I have heard. Long plate Telefunkens are on the way.

 Lets see... I have tried the carver receiver from the 1980's, a Denon 4802 in two channel mode, an Emotiva MPS1 ( just using two channels at 200 watt/ch each), a neighbors current NAD integrated ( forget the number), and a parasound Halo A-23 amp matched with the P3 pre from my two channel rig ( I had high hopes for that one but it had some harshness to the highs).

 The Sigma via the srm1/mk2 pro and the srd-7 mk2 always had the mids and treble so distant. The Sigma bass and soundstage has been always excellent, even my wife had positive commnets about it...despite hating to put it on. But the detail of the rest of the freq was just lost. The Halo actually came close but the TEAC and the Dared/12AU7 do the best in bringing one closer to the stage and really getting a pleasant forward/detailed sound. It took me awhile of A/b ing to really realize it. Still a very warm earspeaker...warmer than the SR007.

 Now the SR007/717 is still the most neutral and best "headphone" combo that I have heard...but the dynamics that the srd 7 mk2 brings and now the fullness of the mids and upper end just makes this the electronica, Pink Floyd, World ( great ukulele realism) even bluegrass... set up to reach for. It is not as forward and bright as I would want but it reminds me alot of listening to live music in outdoor venues. Again... a great/real ukulele sound. I listened alot to Santana's "Singing Wind, Crying Beasts" from Abraxas. It is surprising in that the Dared mp5 would be considered a cheap, mediocre, low fi speaker amp. Although a read thru Elephas' thread does reveal it to be a pretty good speaker amp. It runs my Onix Ref 1 speakers very well in a small room setting.

 The SR007 tho doesn't play that well with this setup...getting just sibilant to my ears...think the Ultrasone proline 2500, but a touch more sssss. It stays with the 717...along with the LambdaPro and 303. A nice tube integrated might be a good match up with the SRD7 in this regard. But I am very satisfied with the 717.




 oh and a momentous night, one to remember.


----------



## bbest

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, there will be significant differences between the Beyerdynamic 880 and any Stax. The sound is totally different, and I'm sure you'll be pleased.

 The 717 is really a much better amp than the 727, or so say most people on this board. The 717 is the 2nd best amp Stax has ever made, after the T2 (which is impossible to find, and goes for over $5000 when it comes up used).

 The Stax 007 will definitely show you the weaknesses of your system, however. You might eventually want a better source than the 1212M._

 

ok! And wich source you recomended? Lynx Two? As I will order STAX from Japan - can you suggest some sound card Japan's manifacture?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok! And wich source you recomended? Lynx Two? As I will order STAX from Japan - can you suggest some sound card Japan's manifacture?_

 

I think what is meant by a better source here is a stand alone or external CD player either with built in DAC or an external DAC with transport. In other words, if I am correct, not through the sound card of a computer.


----------



## Victor Chew

Saw an Aristaeus for sale at the for sale forum. It was sold within 15mins of posting. I did not even get to see the price. That was really fast.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs-aristaeus-378327/


----------



## powertoold

I take back my previous statements about the Lambda Pro. For some reason, this new Lambda Pro sounds better than the last. I don't know why; it was produced much later than the other one. I can never pinpoint the exact reasons why I hear differences lol (too many factors). That's why I'm hesitant to make big changes.

 Anyway, I can see the light! The sound is great, realistic, and full bodied for most classical instruments.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, there will be significant differences between the Beyerdynamic 880 and any Stax. The sound is totally different, and I'm sure you'll be pleased.

 The 717 is really a much better amp than the 727, or so say most people on this board. The 717 is the 2nd best amp Stax has ever made, after the T2 (which is impossible to find, and goes for over $5000 when it comes up used).

 The Stax 007 will definitely show you the weaknesses of your system, however. You might eventually want a better source than the 1212M._

 

The 717 really is an excellent amp for the pro stax earspeakers...it is so Headfi that the next step up would be BlueHawaiiSE ( I am not really sure without an audition whether even the woo maxed would sound sig better on a SR007/O2).

 And Sherwood...Headphoneaddict, I would love to get together for a mini meet sometime. I thought that i would be getting to spend more time in Denver with my son going to DU, but he has been home sick and has traveled back home three times already this first semester. Maybe a westernslope summit,eh?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Saw an Aristaeus for sale at the for sale forum. It was sold within 15mins of posting. I did not even get to see the price. That was really fast.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs-aristaeus-378327/_

 

Wow! That one sure sold fast.
 Guess the price was either right, or someone wanted one badly.

 Whoever you are, enjoy the Aristaeus!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 717 really is an excellent amp for the pro stax earspeakers...it is so Headfi that the next step up would be BlueHawaiiSE ( I am not really sure without an audition whether even the woo maxed would sound sig better on a SR007/O2)._

 

I was told that there are a number of Stax engineers that use the 717 as their reference amp for the O2. I think that you need to start at a KGBH level to really better the 717. IMO the KGSS takes a back seat to the 717. I can't imagine the GES having the voltage or current drive to really bring the O2 to it's potential.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that there are a number of Stax engineers that use the 717 as their reference amp for the O2. I think that you need to start at a KGBH level to really better the 717. IMO the KGSS takes a back seat to the 717. I can't imagine the GES having the voltage or current drive to really bring the O2 to it's potential._

 

You're kinda lumping the KGSS and the GES together here -- they're very different amps.

 Spritzer has asserted that part of the reason that the KGBHSE is the incredible amp that it is is because of the huge amount of voltage it can output. If that's true, the KGSS may well best the SRM-717. Of course, there's more to it than just that, but don't discount it just yet.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're kinda lumping the KGSS and the GES together here -- they're very different amps.

 Spritzer has asserted that part of the reason that the KGBHSE is the incredible amp that it is is because of the huge amount of voltage it can output. If that's true, the KGSS may well best the SRM-717. Of course, there's more to it than just that, but don't discount it just yet._

 

If I recall correctly audiod infact had a KGSS and in direct comparison to his 717 he preferred the 717. (I could be wrong... but i'm pretty sure)


----------



## Goosepond

You guys are making me feel mighty good about the 717 I just bought to replace my SRM-T1S to make my OM/Mk1's sing.

 All transactions right here on Head-Fi. What a place. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gene


----------



## Sherwood

Gene,

 I'm still loving the SRM-T1 you sold me with my SR-Lambdas. I'm plenty happy to follow a few steps behind you.


----------



## Goosepond

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gene,

 I'm still loving the SRM-T1 you sold me with my SR-Lambdas. I'm plenty happy to follow a few steps behind you._

 

My problem is I don't give any one of these things time to sink in before I'm on to the next one. That comes from following this thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Last week, I tried to get that BH that was for sale here. And I haven't even gotten the 717 yet. It's on the way from AussieLand.

 Gene


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're kinda lumping the KGSS and the GES together here -- they're very different amps.

 Spritzer has asserted that part of the reason that the KGBHSE is the incredible amp that it is is because of the huge amount of voltage it can output. If that's true, the KGSS may well best the SRM-717. Of course, there's more to it than just that, but don't discount it just yet._

 

If you search through this thread I did extensive comparisons of the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS. I owned them all. I kept the 717 and 007t. I use the 717 on my O2 and O2II. I use the 007t with my many Lambda's, SR-XIII and ESP-950. The 727II was bland and opaque. The KGSS has poor low level detail and did not retrieve ambiance cues like the 717 or 007t. When I purchased the KGSS I had high hopes. They were shattered. I have not heard the GES but early reports were that it was underpowered for the O2.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I recall correctly audiod infact had a KGSS and in direct comparison to his 717 he preferred the 717. (I could be wrong... but i'm pretty sure)_

 

Great memory


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that there are a number of Stax engineers that use the 717 as their reference amp for the O2. I think that you need to start at a KGBH level to really better the 717. IMO the KGSS takes a back seat to the 717. I can't imagine the GES having the voltage or current drive to really bring the O2 to it's potential._

 

There seems to be alot of opinions about the GES not being able to properly drive the O2. These opinions seem to come from those who have never listened to the GES. I recently borrowed a 717 for a weekend. I could precieve nothing lacking in the GES over the 717 in regards to reaching the full potential of the O2. I will note however that I usually have to put the GES volume past 1 o'clock for a good listeningf level when connected directly to the sourse. I generally use my GES as a power amp leaving the volume at about 80% and going to my ARC LS7 pre-amp, now the volume settings are normal on the pre-amp. I really like using the pre-amp in line mainly because the Siemens tubes sound so good and it seems to really open up the sound stage it also returns volume control to normal. Power wise I can hear no diffence, as far as overall SQ I prefer the GES tube sound over the solid state 717. I do think the 717 is a great amp and I may buy one in the future simply so I can have a diffent sound from time to time.


----------



## Lornecherry

I understand where gimmish is coming from ...and you could both be right. When I use my SinglePower MXP3/Supra as a preamp in front of the SRM-T1 it really opens the T-1 up and the brings the amp to life. 

 The point is simple: the preamp affects your amp and its sound signature; hence two sophisticated listeners may see the GES or any other the amps discussed here in a totaly different light, depending on what's upstream.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There seems to be alot of opinions about the GES not being able to properly drive the O2. These opinions seem to come from those who have never listened to the GES. I recently borrowed a 717 for a weekend. I could precieve nothing lacking in the GES over the 717 in regards to reaching the full potential of the O2. I will note however that I usually have to put the GES volume past 1 o'clock for a good listeningf level when connected directly to the sourse. I generally use my GES as a power amp leaving the volume at about 80% and going to my ARC LS7 pre-amp, now the volume settings are normal on the pre-amp. I really like using the pre-amp in line mainly because the Siemens tubes sound so good and it seems to really open up the sound stage it also returns volume control to normal. Power wise I can hear no diffence, as far as overall SQ I prefer the GES tube sound over the solid state 717. I do think the 717 is a great amp and I may buy one in the future simply so I can have a diffent sound from time to time._

 

I would love to hear a GES. I have always been a "tube guy" for over 40 years. I think that the O2 not only needs power but good bandwidth. The 717 seems provide both along with a smooth laid back midrange. My experience with the GES is from other Head-Fiers and reading about the design of the KGSS, KGBH and the circuit used in the GES by Kevin Gilmore.


----------



## spritzer

Too try and kill a very persistent and annoying trend, lets all be clear that volume level and the ability to drive a tough load have nothing to do with each other. Volume is nothing more then voltage and just about every amp can do that but maintaining the same voltage swing into any load sets amp like the 717 apart from the rest. The impedance is pretty stable over the midrange on all ES drivers but drops into the treble and bass which requires more current from the amp to maintain the same level of voltage swing. Couple the amp to a preamp and you could get positive results due to better impedance matching but you are in no way transforming the amp into something better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer has asserted that part of the reason that the KGBHSE is the incredible amp that it is is because of the huge amount of voltage it can output. If that's true, the KGSS may well best the SRM-717. Of course, there's more to it than just that, but don't discount it just yet._

 

Voltage is only part of the puzzle and is pretty meaningless on its own. The Koss E/90 has more voltage swing then the BH but sounds like a turd and can't even drive the ESP950 properly. Like I said above you also need current and a stiff PSU that doesn't sag under the load. High slewrate (i.e. how fast the amp is) and low output impedance help enormously. 

 As for the KGSS vs 717 I've never heard one of Justin's units but I never liked my DIY KGSS and it was so big and cumbersome that I scrapped it for parts. Going on memory alone then the 717 is definitely warmer, with a slightly larger then life soundstage and the detail level is quite good.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There seems to be alot of opinions about the GES not being able to properly drive the O2. These opinions seem to come from those who have never listened to the GES._

 

HeadPhone addict owns a Woo GES and an o2 Mk II and feels that the GES does not power them properly.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadPhone addict owns a Woo GES and an o2 Mk II and feels that the GES does not power them properly._

 

No, I just don't feel it powers them loudly... 

 But the sound quality is very good at normal to moderately loud volumes. It's just not a match for electronica and head thumping music, and can't come close to the sheer power I get from WA6 or Single Power Square Wave XL balanced with Edition 9/HD600/D2000.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Voltage is only part of the puzzle and is pretty meaningless on its own._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I just don't feel it powers them loudly..._

 

Alright, I get it, I'll stick to talking about politics on the *other* site...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

as I will have a sr-lambda/srd-7sb setup soon, I am starting to look into upgrading my cd source. for those of you who have experience with the normal bias lambdas and their revealing capabilities, do you have any recommendations for a CD player under 500 bucks?


----------



## bbest

Hi guys!
 Thanks for answers. And another question.
 I offen see here that someone sold STAX 007 + SRM 717. Why they do this? Does STAX have spoilage products? Or may be it's headphones not best? May be you can find something better?
 I wanted to buy STAX from Japan .... through auction. Is it good idea to buy STAX that was in use befor?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Couple the amp to a preamp and you could get positive results due to better impedance matching but you are in no way transforming the amp into something better._

 

Lets not forget another benefit of an active preamp in the fact that as current demand goes up, source voltage can drop and an active pre acts as somewhat of a buffer in this regard.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys!
 Thanks for answers. And another question.
 I offen see here that someone sold STAX 007 + SRM 717. Why they do this? Does STAX have spoilage products? Or may be it's headphones not best? May be you can find something better?
 I wanted to buy STAX from Japan .... through auction. Is it good idea to buy STAX that was in use befor?_

 

They sell them usually because they need the money - the SR-007 and SRM-717 should last for a long time.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lets not forget another benefit of an active preamp in the fact that as current demand goes up, source voltage can drop and an active pre acts as somewhat of a buffer in this regard._

 

Indeed, that's what I meant by impedance matching. This whole business of slapping potentiometers on the front of power amps isn't really ideal without some buffer in place but arguments could be made either way.


----------



## Victor Chew

Got my black sand violet z-1 power cables yesterday. Those cables are really good. Made a big difference to the drive using my 717 and O2 mk1. The music was smoother, more musical, clearer with treble more extended without irritaition and bass much deeper. Headstage was also wider and more transparent. Power cords do make a difference!!!


----------



## Goosepond

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my black sand violet z-1 power cables yesterday. Those cables are really good. Made a big difference to the drive using my 717 and O2 mk1. The music was smoother, more musical, clearer with treble more extended without irritaition and bass much deeper. Headstage was also wider and more transparent. Power cords do make a difference!!!_

 

Victor,

 That's good to hear. I also got 3 Black Sand PC's yesterday, one of which is a Z1. I also picked up a pair of Van Den Hul Second XLR IC's a couple of weeks ago. When my 717 gets here, I'll hook them all up with my O2/Mk1's and my Cary CDP.

 Gene


----------



## Victor Chew

The black sand violet z1 was reviewed as being able to beat power cords many times its price. I did not believe it and thought that is was another of the usual marketing BS. But the price was not too expensive so I took the risk and ordered 2 for myself, thinking that at most I will just sell it off if it sounds like Sh...! Boy, I was wrong. It trashed my power cords costing more than $800. The T1s with my LNS sounded so much more transparent and analogue. With my 717 and O2 mk1, it was no different. The jump was like a search in power and removal of veil which I thought was not even there right from the start.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wanted to buy STAX from Japan .... through auction. Is it good idea to buy STAX that was in use befor?_

 

Every used SR-007 I've seen was well cared for, so I wouldn't worry about buying them used. They will surely be in good condition unless they are listed otherwise.

 If you can speak and read Japanese, you're all set. If you can't, or don't have a friend who can translate, I recommend using a service like kuboten.com. Some Japanese auctions won't ship out of the country, and kuboten is useful for that as well. It adds to the price somewhat, but it's a good service.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys!
 Thanks for answers. And another question.
 I offen see here that someone sold STAX 007 + SRM 717. Why they do this? Does STAX have spoilage products? Or may be it's headphones not best? May be you can find something better?
 I wanted to buy STAX from Japan .... through auction. Is it good idea to buy STAX that was in use befor?_

 

Buying used Stax makes sense. Since they are built to last, and the potential of scoring a nice deal. 
 Buying new has its pro's as well, so guess you have to pick on your own.

 I am sure there are several reasons why Head-Fi'ers sell their SR-007 system. Like:
 * To recover some cash.
 * Don't like the sound signature (which happens).
 * Just want to try something different.
 * Downgrade system.
 * Going speakers.
 * ...

 Best wishes!


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lets not forget another benefit of an active preamp in the fact that as current demand goes up, source voltage can drop and an active pre acts as somewhat of a buffer in this regard._

 

Exactly. Lets not forget that now I can upgrade and modify my pre-amp!!! Oh boy I get to spend alot more money that I don't have!!! There are lots of expensive things I do with this pre-amp, caps, power cable input, etc. etc. I sometimes think of my pre-amp as an equalizer I feel that it improves my sound greatly the only draw back being a slight loss of detail vs direct connection but then a cable upgrade may imrove this, great huh more money!!


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The black sand violet z1 was reviewed as being able to beat power cords many times its price. I did not believe it and thought that is was another of the usual marketing BS. But the price was not too expensive so I took the risk and ordered 2 for myself, thinking that at most I will just sell it off if it sounds like Sh...! Boy, I was wrong. It trashed my power cords costing more than $800. The T1s with my LNS sounded so much more transparent and analogue. With my 717 and O2 mk1, it was no different. The jump was like a search in power and removal of veil which I thought was not even there right from the start._

 


 And another thing that has been shown to increase detail in the Stax ssetups are good silver IC's.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And another thing that has been shown to increase detail in the Stax ssetups are good silver IC's._

 

Or ALO SXC cryo'd silver plated copper which sounds as crisp and detailed as silver with the weight of copper, but with no echo'y upper mids like Jenna Labs cryo'd copper. It actually has better detail than my pure dead soft silver IC's.


----------



## bbest

*Sherwood*
*krmathis*
 Ok thanks. I uderstand that buying used Stax isn't bad.


----------



## Sherwood

Not at all. Buying used Stax is a tradition around here


----------



## jvlgato

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Sherwood*
*krmathis*
 Ok thanks. I uderstand that buying used Stax isn't bad._

 

I am a new used-Stax owner and am extremely happy. Both amp and phones are in very good shape, sound great, and the value for the price was very high. In my relatively short period of time around here, I have found that it is very much the norm to own many different headphones, often from the same company, and to rotate and/or try out different equipment by buying and selling used stuff. By doing this, you get to try out a lot of different equipment essentially for the cost of shipping.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And another thing that has been shown to increase detail in the Stax ssetups are good silver IC's._

 

Agreed. Been playing around with quite a few ICs and the stax easily shows the differences.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bbest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Sherwood*
*krmathis*
 Ok thanks. I uderstand that buying used Stax isn't bad._

 

Yeah, not bad at all.
 Thats even the way much of us get to try out different 'phones. Buy used (eBay, FS forum, ...), give them a thorough test, then pass on to the next Head-Fi'er.


----------



## catscratch

Don't automatically assume that when it comes to Stax, silver = better. Your cables will depend on the rest of your system. With the O2/717 and the 840c, silver made things unbearably bright and messed up the tone. I had to put in a dark copper IC and even then things were still a bit on the bright side. The 840c is a pretty bright-sounding source, and the O2 will never hide that. But then, when I got the Opus 21, the sound was so dark that it needed a bright-sounding silver IC to balance it out.

 Get your rig, listen with whatever cables you have, and then pick cables to tune your system in whatever direction you need it to go.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'm listening to a little Jack Johnson my O2 Mk2 with GES maxed (Apogee mini DAC pre-amp XLR out > Single Power > RCA loop out to GES), and I have my SR-Lambda plugged into the GES too (normal and pro bias jacks). Both sound great.

 Plus I have connected my balanced Denon AH-D2000 (Apogee XLR out > Single Power) and loaner MD5000 (Apogee mini DAC 1/8" line out into Woo WA6 maxed) with all playing the same music at the same time.

 The SR-Lambda are at least 90% or more of the O2 Mk2's sound, maybe more. Both beat the Denons in accuracy, transparency and toe tapping fun (the MD5000 have a little boost in the upper mids, and the D2000 are lacking in that same area - the Stax do it just right). I think I like both of these Stax more than the ESP950 too, so I need to go dig those out and listen to some ESP950 more. Next up is the HE60 and SR-Lambda Signature...

 Wow. I am convinced the best low budget Stax is the normal bias SR-Lambda, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is better than the current model SR-202 thru SR-404 too. And, I'd be perfectly happy with either Denon if I hadn't heard better.


----------



## spritzer

All silver IC's can't really be grouped together as some are frankly dreadful, bright, edgy and unnatural, while others are warmer then most copper IC's and not the least bit harsh. The quality of the conductors used (which has no bearing on the final price of the cables), their size and insulation material plus the connectors and cable geometry all have a big impact on how the cable "sounds".


----------



## Anders

Then there seems to be some agreement that silver is not necessarily better. Important because the recommendation "get a good silver cable" sometimes has been used as a kind of mantra. It can easily be understood as a statement that silver is always better, although that may not have been the meaning.

 I am currently using copper for SRM-717 and that sounds better than my silver cable, but it may depend more on that this cable is balanced than the material used. I believe that balanced - SE also is important for the Stax amplifiers that have a balanced design. But my experience base is admittedly limited. BTW, the balanced copper cable sounds better than my silver cable also with the tube 007t, even if the unbalanced silver cable is a very good choice in itself here.


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow. I am convinced the best low budget Stax is the normal bias SR-Lambda, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is better than the current model SR-202 thru SR-404 too. And, I'd be perfectly happy with either Denon if I hadn't heard better._

 

Do you have pics of this normal bias lambda?


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Important because the recommendation "get a good silver cable" sometimes has been used as a kind of mantra. It can easily be understood as a statement that silver is always better,_

 

Not even the most silver-loving audiophile will ever say silver is "always better." There are some God-awful silver cables out there for sure. 

 However, you take an extemely talented cable designer, give him best copper and best silver and tell him to do his best with both. Guess which one I'm taking?


----------



## Anders

Very hard to guess! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It is possible that silver has some advantage as a material, it has a slightly higher conductivity. In my own experience, a copper cables has worked best sometimes and a silver cable in other cases. Maybe there is always some silver cable out there that can outperform the copper cable but that means too much testing and expenses to be attractive for me.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have pics of this normal bias lambda?_

 

You seen one, you've seen 'em all.


----------



## donunus

ok, its not the big square one? what was that??? aaahh just found one. Its the sigma I guess


----------



## John Buchanan

that would be my Sigma before the 404 conversion.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok, its not the big square one? what was that??? aaahh just found one. Its the sigma I guess 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's definitely not a Lambda


----------



## donunus

I'm joining team stax soon woohooo. 2050A II coming up!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm joining team stax soon woohooo. 2050A II coming up!_

 

My, what an eager beaver!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have pics of this normal bias lambda?_

 

Pictures taken from a FS thread in here.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/IMG_1843.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/IMG_1844.jpg


----------



## spritzer

With the Omega's I would always choose a good silver cable but something like the Lambdas don't need or really want the whole truth approach. 

 As for the SE vs. dual differential then there is very little difference between them that can't be traced back to the source and the extra 3db that the balanced connection gives.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm joining team stax soon woohooo. 2050A II coming up!_

 

You may, from here on, find it a slippery road to the Omegas as many have had.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the Omega's I would always choose a good silver cable but something like the Lambdas don't need or really want the whole truth approach._

 

ICs are like salt and pepper or spices - add or reduce to your liking I would say.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I would say a vintage SR-Lambda with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is better than 90% of the headphones out there, so just get that and quit head-fi.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say a vintage SR-Lambda with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is better than 90% of the headphones out there, so just get that and quit head-fi. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Larry, that seems to be what I've done. 

 I'm keeping my eyes open for a good deal on some ESP-950s or another pair of Signatures (Nova or otherwise), and I recently picked up an SR-001 MK.2 for work, but other than that I'm set.

 Well, set for headphones... for awhile...


----------



## mypasswordis

I'm not sure where I should post this, so I'll just do it here:

 My SR-5NB sounds closed in, with a midbass hump and a recessed treble, worn what I think should be normally. It sounds much better when I move the drivers away from my ears and angle them slightly, basically solving all the aforementioned issues. Is this because my pads are worn out? Is there any way I can pad them more, or buy pads that are less flat and possibly angled?

 Edit: My current preferred configuration is putting them on as normal, and then making the fronts face outward, which I admit is kind of funky.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Larry, that seems to be what I've done. 

 I'm keeping my eyes open for a good deal on some ESP-950s or another pair of Signatures (Nova or otherwise), and I recently picked up an SR-001 MK.2 for work, but other than that I'm set.

 Well, set for headphones... for awhile... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sheerwood you leaving us after you get the SR Lambda? You can't do that. We will miss all your jokes. Everyone out there - DO NOT SELL YOUR SR Lambda to Sheerwood.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Larry, that seems to be what I've done. 

 I'm keeping my eyes open for a good deal on some ESP-950s or another pair of Signatures (Nova or otherwise), and I recently picked up an SR-001 MK.2 for work, but other than that I'm set.

 Well, set for headphones... for awhile... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I might consider selling you my ESP950 - we'll talk later...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sheerwood you leaving us after you get the SR Lambda? You can't do that. We will miss all your jokes. Everyone out there - DO NOT SELL YOUR SR Lambda to Sheerwood. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

He already has the SR-Lambda and a nice amp...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure where I should post this, so I'll just do it here:

 My SR-5NB sounds closed in, with a midbass hump and a recessed treble, worn what I think should be normally. It sounds much better when I move the drivers away from my ears and angle them slightly, basically solving all the aforementioned issues. Is this because my pads are worn out? Is there any way I can pad them more, or buy pads that are less flat and possibly angled?

 Edit: My current preferred configuration is putting them on as normal, and then making the fronts face outward, which I admit is kind of funky._

 

That sounds totally unlike what mine sound like, so I hope you get the problem fixed! It could be pads, or something else. I'll let the ex-spurts chime in now...


----------



## Sherwood

I've had my lambdas for awhile, and my post count has hardly dwindled...

 No worries, Victor. Looks like I'm in this thing for the long haul.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I might consider selling you my ESP950 - we'll talk later..._

 

Oooohhhh


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my lambdas for awhile, and my post count has hardly dwindled...

 No worries, Victor. Looks like I'm in this thing for the long haul.



 Oooohhhh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











_

 


 Don't forget that is a "might sell", as in I am trying to decide what to sell off next that I don't need - so I am listening to everything carefully. The ESP950 is kind of a cross between the Lambda and O2 and HE60, so I have to decide if it does more things right than the others. I already know the SR-Lambda, SR-5NB gold edition and HE-60 aren't going anywhere, so it's either the O2, ESP950 or SR-Lambda Signature that may go to the chopping block. But you Sherwood will be first in line for anything that I am selling that you want.

 I've also discovered Spritzer is very correct about the O2 Mk2 missing some deep bass extension, and the bass port mod is next on the agenda once I buy some blu-tak. It's not due to the amp or source because the SR-Lambda have the deep organ pedals present and accounted for.


----------



## Victor Chew

Spritzer, 

 I read that Justin has been asking for balance payment for shipment of the BHSE. He hasn't asked me yet. Also understand that he wold want to ship all the 20 out by year end. You got any new yet?


----------



## Victor Chew

Sherwood, I am happy that you have continued to stay despite your acquisitions. I promise that I will get Justin to make you a BHSE out of good edible stuff with good packing. Ha!


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't forget that is a "might sell", as in I am trying to decide what to sell off next that I don't need - so I am listening to everything carefully. The ESP950 is kind of a cross between the Lambda and O2 and HE60, so I have to decide if it does more things right than the others. I already know the SR-Lambda, SR-5NB gold edition and HE-60 aren't going anywhere, so it's either the O2, ESP950 or SR-Lambda Signature that may go to the chopping block. But you Sherwood will be first in line for anything that I am selling that you want.

 I've also discovered Spritzer is very correct about the O2 Mk2 missing some deep bass extension, and the bass port mod is next on the agenda once I buy some blu-tak. It's not due to the amp or source because the SR-Lambda have the deep organ pedals present and accounted for._

 

Larry,

 Whatever you are intending to sell off, pls let us have first right to reject. Em! Of course pertaining only to hifi equipment!!!


----------



## eduj

Another Team Stax member here:I already had Stax 005 and just bought a Stax Classic (European version).I use a Xindak dac-5 dac with my iMac.The Xindak has both tube and solid state outputs.I use the SS one for the 005 and the tube for the Classic


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Team Stax member here:I already had Stax 005 and just bought a Stax Classic (European version).I use a Xindak dac-5 dac with my iMac.The Xindak has both tube and solid state outputs.I use the SS one for the 005 and the tube for the Classic_

 

Hi

 I m going to upgrade my disks and have considered WD ( 2TB raid 1 )

 How is the noise level ?

 I am currently using LaCie Rugged 500MB fanless, self powered through firewire - but they have reached their storage limit (AIFF files). I use one as a working disk, one as a local backup and another one as an off site backup

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi

 I m going to upgrade my disks and have considered WD ( 2TB raid 1 )

 How is the noise level ?

 I am currently using LaCie Rugged 500MB fanless, self powered through firewire - but they have reached their storage limit (AIFF files). I use one as a working disk, one as a local backup and another one as an off site backup

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Mine is a 2TB My Book Studio Edition with FireWire 800 and eSata-its where i keep my ALAC files.Noise lever is pretty low,there is some slight noise when the HD spins.It never bothers me.


----------



## -=Germania=-

eduj, that is a nice clean setup you got there. Well done.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another Team Stax member here:I already had Stax 005 and just bought a Stax Classic (European version).I use a Xindak dac-5 dac with my iMac.The Xindak has both tube and solid state outputs.I use the SS one for the 005 and the tube for the Classic 








_

 

Sure looks nice!
 Should be a very noticeable improvement going from the SR-003 to the SR-303.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine is a 2TB My Book Studio Edition with FireWire 800 and eSata-its where i keep my ALAC files.Noise lever is pretty low,there is some slight noise when the HD spins.It never bothers me._

 

Thanks a lot. That solved my storage problems - for a while !

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_eduj, that is a nice clean setup you got there. Well done._

 

Thanks!



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure looks nice!
 Should be a very noticeable improvement going from the SR-003 to the SR-303. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For sure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.SR-303 sounds bigger and waay more detailed. Highs are more extended Resolution is superb.I still find SR-003 very useful though because it has such a warm sound.I prefer to use it over SR-303 for recordings/masterings that are too bright.I also find SR-003 extremely comfortable ,it weights nothing.
 Also,for its size,I find SR-303 very comfy.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

whoo hoo!!! my vintage stax are on the way! its gonna be a hard 7-10 days. question for you guys. I'm getting the srd-7sb. I was just going to use regular mid grade copper speaker wire to connect it to the Amp. do you guys have any specific suggestions on a better way? a preferred length of wire to use? or a specific interconnect that improves the signal?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whoo hoo!!! my vintage stax are on the way! its gonna be a hard 7-10 days. question for you guys. I'm getting the srd-7sb. I was just going to use regular mid grade copper speaker wire to connect it to the Amp. do you guys have any specific suggestions on a better way? a preferred length of wire to use? or a specific interconnect that improves the signal?_

 

Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 It will probably be a long weeks wait...

 All the Stax energizers (including the SRD-7SB) have cables attached for hooking up to the amplifier. So you only need speaker wires if you plan to place the SRD-7SB more than a meter or so away from the amplifier.

 Like this:


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It will probably be a long weeks wait...

 All the Stax energizers (including the SRD-7SB) have cables attached for hooking up to the amplifier. So you only need speaker wires if you plan to place the SRD-7SB more than a meter or so away from the amplifier.

 Like this:


_

 

How I got this far not knowing that is beyond me. Thank you for clearing that up. Saves me more than a few bucks!

 and yes, gonna be a Looooong week. I have to start thinking what the first album will be on the new system as well....... oh the misery!!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How I got this far not knowing that is beyond me. Thank you for clearing that up. Saves me more than a few bucks!_

 

You're welcome!
 These energizer "thing" take a while to explain most people, so you're not the only one.

  Quote:


 and yes, gonna be a Looooong week. I have to start thinking what the first album will be on the new system as well....... oh the misery!! 
 

How about some -->> Nils Lofgren - "Acoustic Live"?


----------



## Kraps

An online shop or a dealer delivering Stax throughout the EU?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An online shop or a dealer delivering Stax throughout the EU?_

 

Some online dealer, who afaik deliver Stax worldwide (including EU).
PriceJapan.com
Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products
EIFL EXPORT HOME PAGE,vacuum tube,valve,amplifier,speaker,mail-order sales
AudioCubes.com - Japan's Best Kept Secrets, Delivered.


----------



## padam

Okay so I've been through all this thread (it was quite a lot of time) but I still couldn't find all the information I need.

 SRM-T1S seems to be the amp that I am looking for since I have a HQ balanced interconnect and a balanced DAC soon. I am a bit worried about reliability issues. Is there any other decent amp (in this price range) with balanced inputs? Also I am a bit confused about the voltage because I didn't see a switcher on the back of the T1-S but I know that it can be easily changed in some models, is this one of them?

 And I would like to know where should I look for used STAX items (mainly in the EU) besides ebay.

 If I could get one I would have a pleasant choice between a modded ESP-950 or something from the Lambda family


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some online dealer, who afaik deliver Stax worldwide (including EU).
PriceJapan.com
Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products
EIFL EXPORT HOME PAGE,vacuum tube,valve,amplifier,speaker,mail-order sales
AudioCubes.com - Japan's Best Kept Secrets, Delivered._

 

Thanks, Krmathis! Most of these I found myself. I would rather prefer an internal EU delivery for a couple of reasons:

 1. 220v
 2. 25% VAT and customs duties for deliveries incoming from outside EU (not to count the fuss and torture to release such a delivery from customs)

 I would appreciate everybody's advice for EU based dealer/seller, as well as for a source to buy used within EU.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Krmathis! Most of these I found myself. I would rather prefer an internal EU delivery for a couple of reasons:

 1. 220v
 2. 25% VAT and customs duties for deliveries incoming from outside EU (not to count the fuss and torture to release such a delivery from customs)

 I would appreciate everybody's advice for EU based dealer/seller, as well as for a source to buy used within EU._

 

As an open option to you, if you are not able to get what you want from the EU, many of the stax amps can be converted internally, with some more troublesome than another.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay so I've been through all this thread (it was quite a lot of time) but I still couldn't find all the information I need.

 SRM-T1S seems to be the amp that I am looking for since I have a HQ balanced interconnect and a balanced DAC soon. I am a bit worried about reliability issues. Is there any other decent amp (in this price range) with balanced inputs? Also I am a bit confused about the voltage because I didn't see a switcher on the back of the T1-S but I know that it can be easily changed in some models, is this one of them?

 And I would like to know where should I look for used STAX items (mainly in the EU) besides ebay.

 There is a T1s on ebay. It is sold by powertodd. You may want to contact him. These things in also cosmetically good condition are hard to come by. I am sure you will be happy with it for a long time to come.

 If I could get one I would have a pleasant choice between a modded ESP-950 or something from the Lambda family 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have the T1s. It is a very good sounding amp. Many here who own them will agree with me. Reliability is not a problem. It is not an unstable amp, with high breakdown rate or habit of going up in fire, and stax did sell many of them in their hay days. The only things you might want to paly with for this amp, without fiddling with it internally, is the roling of tubes to suit your taste and proper biasing each time new tubes are inserted.
 The T1s was matched with the LNS and also sold as a package and they sound good together. 

 Voltage for the T1s can be changed internally. There is no switch, but there is a voltage block found below the amp. You will have to remove the bottom plate to get to it. The fuse is a 250v so you do not have to worry about changing it. In any case just, check it as previous owners along the way may have changed it to a different value.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Krmathis! Most of these I found myself. I would rather prefer an internal EU delivery for a couple of reasons:

 1. 220v
 2. 25% VAT and customs duties for deliveries incoming from outside EU (not to count the fuss and torture to release such a delivery from customs)

 I would appreciate everybody's advice for EU based dealer/seller, as well as for a source to buy used within EU._

 

I bought a Lambda 404 from:

eBay Shop - HIGH END CASQUE: Wir verkaufen Headphone Amps Ampli Casque, Headphones Casque, DAC.

 No problems. Price was OK. No problems with customs as it was shipped from within EU.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Krmathis! Most of these I found myself. I would rather prefer an internal EU delivery for a couple of reasons:_

 

German based one...
http://www.christophzingel.de/
eBay Shop - christophzingel: Wir verkaufen STAX KopfhÃ¶rer und ZubehÃ¶r, SONOS Multiroom System, Backes MÃ¼ller.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought a Lambda 404 from:

eBay Shop - HIGH END CASQUE: Wir verkaufen Headphone Amps Ampli Casque, Headphones Casque, DAC.

 No problems. Price was OK. No problems with customs as it was shipped from within EU.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I am in the middle of a quite annoying situation with this particular ebay shop. They list a good number of stax sets, including at least a dozen Omega sets. 
 About aweek or smothing ago i found them to list a Omega MK2/srm 727 combo for EUR 3,299 plus transport (the listing said they had 2 pcs of this set). Besides, they were listing a couple of pcs of the same set for EUR 3,899, a couple of Omega 2 mk2 stand alone, several Omega MK2/srm 007t, etc
 EUR 3,299 seemed a nice deal to me so I made a purchase right away. As a result their a listing immediately showed one set left out of 2 and i received an automatic congratulation on purchase by e-mail. 
 Luckily, I had not enough credit on my card and it was Saturday so I had to wait for Monday to make the payment. Early next day I got a message to my ebay account that seller requests cancellation of the deal without specifying a reason. Of course, I denied it because I thought they sudenly realised that they have missed something uncomfortably cheap on their listings. Then I received an email (not through ebay) by the seler claiming that they were out-of-stock on the item(?!?) and asking to cancel so that they could avoid the ebay fee, but they were gonna e-mail me when they had stock. I wrote back that I did not believe this, since there were at least 10 more Omegas and a couple of srm-727's on their lisitngs. Then they again sent me a short e-mail that they were out of stock. Of course, I did not make a payment, because although I believe that paypal will refund if I dont get the item, stil i am in no need to check it on EUR 3,300.


 Meanwhile the remaining twin of my item vanished from their shop but a new listing appeared of 2 pcs of the same set for EUR 3,499, while the one for EUR 3,899 remained. 

 I am regularly sending e-mail asking i they could already delivery so that I make may payment and they continue to respond that they are out-of-stock and asking me "to help cancel the deal"

 So I am pretty upset about this seller and naturally seek for another solution


----------



## Kraps

Thanks again Krmathis, I will check on the German one.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am in the middle of a quite annoying situation with this particular ebay shop. They list a good number of stax sets, including at least a dozen Omega sets. 
 About aweek or smothing ago i found them to list a Omega MK2/srm 727 combo for EUR 3,299 plus transport (the listing said they had 2 pcs of this set). Besides, they were listing a couple of pcs of the same set for EUR 3,899, a couple of Omega 2 mk2 stand alone, several Omega MK2/srm 007t, etc
 EUR 3,299 seemed a nice deal to me so I made a purchase right away. As a result their a listing immediately showed one set left out of 2 and i received an automatic congratulation on purchase by e-mail. 
 Luckily, I had not enough credit on my card and it was Saturday so I had to wait for Monday to make the payment. Early next day I got a message to my ebay account that seller requests cancellation of the deal without specifying a reason. Of course, I denied it because I thought they sudenly realised that they have missed something uncomfortably cheap on their listings. Then I received an email (not through ebay) by the seler claiming that they were out-of-stock on the item(?!?) and asking to cancel so that they could avoid the ebay fee, but they were gonna e-mail me when they had stock. I wrote back that I did not believe this, since there were at least 10 more Omegas and a couple of srm-727's on their lisitngs. Then they again sent me a short e-mail that they were out of stock. Of course, I did not make a payment, because although I believe that paypal will refund if I dont get the item, stil i am in no need to check it on EUR 3,300.


 Meanwhile the remaining twin of my item vanished from their shop but a new listing appeared of 2 pcs of the same set for EUR 3,499, while the one for EUR 3,899 remained. 

 I am regularly sending e-mail asking i they could already delivery so that I make may payment and they continue to respond that they are out-of-stock and asking me "to help cancel the deal"

 So I am pretty upset about this seller and naturally seek for another solution_

 

I understand your situation. Sorry to have recommended - but it was based on my one and only experience with this seller. I paid the 399 Euro as advertised and received the phones in 4 days.

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## Kraps

Thanks, Tom. I will not hold you responsible lol


----------



## eduj

Quote:


 eBay Shop - HIGH END CASQUE: Wir verkaufen Headphone Amps Ampli Casque, Headphones Casque, DAC.

 

Weird prices.The Stax Classic (SRS-3050 II) system has 2 prices :1399 &1199 euros 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I bought mine a couple weeks ago from the official Stax distributor in my country (Greece) for 1090 euros!


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Weird prices.The Stax Classic (SRS-3050 II) system has 2 prices :1399 &1199 euros 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I bought mine a couple weeks ago from the official Stax distributor in my country (Greece) for 1090 euros!_

 

Well, they have three different prices on the Omega2 combo.

 Eduj, can you suggest some contact details of the Greek dealer of Stax. May be he would ship to Bulgaria. We do not have a local dealer.


----------



## eduj

Its Laios SA.
Overseas Distributors for Greece
 But he doesn't keep stock for most of the Stax gear.He ordered mine straight from the factory in Japan and in a week i had it in my hands.


----------



## Kraps

Thanks, Eduj. The guy seems not to have a website, though. Did you by chance check the prices on O2? The German guys that Krmathis linked me to are looking for crazy amounts.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks again Krmathis, I will check on the German one._

 

You're most welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It wont be cheap, but at least you wont be charged 25% VAT and customs duties for deliveries to your door. And the amplifiers will accept 220v out-of-the-box.


----------



## padam

I have a chance to audition a SRM-1/MK2 and a SR-404 combo locally tomorrow and it is for sale, how much do you think it worth? The amp seems to be in very good condition and the headphone is only a month old.

 This will be my first electrostatic experience, looking forward to it


----------



## Sherwood

If you bought those separately on the US market, you'd be looking at about $800-$900. Since things are about 20% more expensive in Europe with VAT and voltage conversion, I'd say between 750 and 800 Euros would be fair. This is a pretty rough guess, though.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eduj, can you suggest some contact details of the Greek dealer of Stax. May be he would ship to Bulgaria. We do not have a local dealer._

 

I can't seem to find a local US dealer of any of the forged Nazi memorabilia and swords in umbrellas I bought from a street market in Sofia last summer, either. It seems some things are just tougher to get on opposite sides of the pond


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you bought those separately on the US market, you'd be looking at about $800-$900. Since things are about 20% more expensive in Europe with VAT and voltage conversion, I'd say between 750 and 800 Euros would be fair. This is a pretty rough guess, though._

 

Okay I'm going to buy it because it is much less than that


----------



## spacemanspliff

This is kind of a wtb but I am looking for some Stax Lambda normal or Sigmas and a SRD-7 or something like it really soon. $300-800 range. If anyone has a lead on a setup please pm me. Been too long without Stax!


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't seem to find a local US dealer of any of the forged Nazi memorabilia and swords in umbrellas I bought from a street market in Sofia last summer, either. It seems some things are just tougher to get on opposite sides of the pond 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Really? How about some trade? I will send you a couple of helmets and orders in exchange of a O2 combo. Well there some risk in it for me, i.e. people will take me for a foreigner since no local would buy anything from these street markets.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? How about some trade? I will send you a couple of helmets and orders in exchange of a O2 combo. Well there some risk in it for me, i.e. people will take me for a foreigner since no local would buy anything from these street markets.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There was little risk for me, as I look like a foreigner everywhere. I also can't speak a word of Bulgarian, and kept taking of pictures of signs that read "HOBO". I bought a fake nazi compass and a t-shirt. Well worth it.


----------



## powertoold

Does anyone know where I can buy some Japanese Raytheon 6CG7s?

 Thanks!

 Edit: Nevermind, found some on an old school shady-looking tube site.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

as my SR-Lambda's will be arriving in about a week, I was wondering if there are any special care or storage techniques I should be aware of. I am a bit concerned about the life of the phones because of their age. I want to take the best care of them that I can. and this will be my first venture into electrostats. any and all help is appreciated.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_as my SR-Lambda's will be arriving in about a week, I was wondering if there are any special care or storage techniques I should be aware of. I am a bit concerned about the life of the phones because of their age. I want to take the best care of them that I can. and this will be my first venture into electrostats. any and all help is appreciated._

 

If they are working when you get them they should keep on working with minimal care. I have Staxen 30+ years old. 

 Keep them away from dust and don't get them wet. Stax sells a plastic cover although you could use a gallon freezer bag. I personally have never covered mine. I suspect the main problem you may encounter is that if you use a transformer, rather than an amp, you run more risk of driving them to arcing.


----------



## Victor Chew

I just got my silver foil XLR cables. I plugged them into my Koala Tube to my 717 and I was pretty impressed. The audience XLR ($300) was a big gap away. Transparency was much improved and the music was more involving. Body was much better as well.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know where I can buy some Japanese Raytheon 6CG7s?

 Thanks!

 Edit: Nevermind, found some on an old school shady-looking tube site._

 

eBay? That's where I got mine.


----------



## Headphone Crazed

Good morning Stax peeps hope someone can help looking for a mint SRM-717 with posible U.S. voltage. to drive my SR007-MK2s, Thanks all and have a safe upcoming holiday..
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Marc Hessel
 Brooklyn, New York..


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headphone Crazed* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good morning Stax peeps hope someone can help looking for a mint SRM-717 with posible U.S. voltage. to drive my SR007-MK2s, Thanks all and have a safe upcoming holiday..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Marc Hessel
 Brooklyn, New York..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can ask Craig from koboTen to source one for you. I think he has one at the moment. You can reach him at -

support@kuboten.com

 Voltage should not be a problem as it can be switchable either internally or externally depending on which batch it is. Internally is a little more troublesome but not impossible. If not mistaken, the one that Craig has is in US voltage. If not, you can ask him for the instructions to do it yourself. I gave him the instruction sometime ago.


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Eduj. The guy seems not to have a website, though. Did you by chance check the prices on O2? The German guys that Krmathis linked me to are looking for crazy amounts._

 

I didn’t ask ,but I’m sure it will be cheaper than the prices I see in ebay.You can alternatively ask other Stax distributors in central/south Europe for prices and if they are willing to ship to you.For example from Croatia,Italy or Czech Republic
Overseas Distributors for Italy
Overseas Distributors for Czech Republic
Overseas Distributors for Croatia


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_as my SR-Lambda's will be arriving in about a week, I was wondering if there are any special care or storage techniques I should be aware of. I am a bit concerned about the life of the phones because of their age. I want to take the best care of them that I can. and this will be my first venture into electrostats. any and all help is appreciated._

 

Protect them against dust and moist, and don't drop them to the floor.
 Apart from that they should be mostly maintenance free and long lasting.


----------



## Sherwood

It's kind of paradoxical -- the more humid your room is the less dust you will have. Protecting against one puts you at risk of the other.

 Don't worry, though, they are really rather maintenance free. Unlike dynamic headphones which are subjected to stress by simply being used, Estats can run for a long time so long as they're minimally cared for.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they are working when you get them they should keep on working with minimal care. I have Staxen 30+ years old. 

 Keep them away from dust and don't get them wet. Stax sells a plastic cover although you could use a gallon freezer bag. I personally have never covered mine. I suspect the main problem you may encounter is that if you use a transformer, rather than an amp, you run more risk of driving them to arcing._

 

I have heard this term "arcing" around here a lot. what is it exactly? the only thing I picture is a blue arc of electricity going from one ear to the other, and that would be bad. so what is it, and how do you avoid it. I'll be using an SRD-7sb


----------



## Sherwood

Arcing is bad, bad news. When you drive the panels WAAAY too hard they literally arc (though not between your ears 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) and cause holes to form on the panels. Once they arc once they begin to arc more easily, leading eventually to a useless, goofy looking set of earmuffs.

 Preventing this is easy, however. Just be careful that you know where the volume on your amp is before you turn them on. The lambdas will not arc at listenable volumes, they arc at "holy crap is that blood coming out of my brain?" volumes. You will never purposely drive them this hard, but you might have the volume turned up from your speakers and accidentally switch to headphones, which could cause them to arc. Be careful with them, and you're problem free.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have heard this term "arcing" around here a lot. what is it exactly? the only thing I picture is a blue arc of electricity going from one ear to the other, and that would be bad. so what is it, and how do you avoid it. I'll be using an SRD-7sb_

 

You certainly don't want any arching. Its not physical painful for you, as there will be no electricity going through you from one ear to the other.
 What happens are that the diaphragm get in contact with one of the two stators, releasing its 230v charge (a shortcut). Which burn a hole in the diaphragm.

 You avoid it by not driving the 'phone louder than they are capable of. Don't turn up the volume unless you have the 'phones on your head, and you should be safe. Your ears will hurt before the 'phones.
 Stay safe!


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Arcing sounds pretty easy to avoid. thanks for giving me the down low. Its amazing how much crap you guys know.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Its amazing how much crap you guys know._

 

(he says, no knowing that now _he _knows all this crap _too_, and in two months noobs will be asking _him_ for advice)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its amazing how much crap you guys know._

 

Damn you Head-Fi!
 For making me spend so much time reading and posting around here...


----------



## padam

I've did listen to the SR-404 & SRM-1/MK2 combo today and it was quite an experience. The condition is the same as I described before (headphone almost brand new and the amp is in pristine condition) so I think it's a deal that I will not miss. Hope I can join the club very soon


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's kind of paradoxical -- the more humid your room is the less dust you will have. Protecting against one puts you at risk of the other.

 Don't worry, though, they are really rather maintenance free. Unlike dynamic headphones which are subjected to stress by simply being used, Estats can run for a long time so long as they're minimally cared for._

 

I remember asking the Martin Logan dealer in Hong Kong about the humidity being a factor. Of course, I got told it was a myth. What else would you expect him to say?


----------



## Sherwood

To a degree he is right. Reasonable levels of humidity are okay, but I imagine you run an increased risk of arcing when you listen in, say, a steam room.


----------



## gp_hebert

Somebody snatch that O2 Mk1 pair in the FS forum before I do something stupid and buy a backup pair.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Damn, looks like they're gone already.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

How much did the Mk1 go for?


----------



## powertoold

1450


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can ask Craig from koboTen to source one for you. I think he has one at the moment. You can reach him at -

support@kuboten.com_

 

If this is the one you're talking about, AudiogoN ForSale: STAX SRM-717, it arrived at my house just moments ago. It's in flawless condition -- a perfect 10/10. Sounded great right out of the box and it's now warming up.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks to audiod, I'll be doing the conversion to 117V over the weekend so that I can get rid of the step-down transformer.

 I can't say enough good things about Craig. KoboTen is the way to go for vintage STAX!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Spritzer has me too worried about the cable coming disconnected from the driver on the Mk1 to buy one now. And for some reason I just cannot remember to buy some blu-tak when I am out and about on errands.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somebody snatch that O2 Mk1 pair in the FS forum before I do something stupid and buy a backup pair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Seller says that R10 is better than O2 mk 1 in almost every way. Anyone has experience with these 2 headphone/speakerphones care to comment?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've stated before or elsewhere that Mikhail's R10 at the July Colorado meet were the best dynamic headphones I have tried, whether with a Zana Deux or a $190 Travagans Red. They have more sparkle and less rolled highs, decent bass impact and extension, rich midrange, good detail and transparency, with wide and deep soundstage. What else could you ask for?


----------



## catscratch

I bought my O2 from Craig at KuboTen as well, and he was great to work with. Seems like a solid legitimate vendor from all of the feedback I've gathered.

 RE R10 vs O2 Mk1 - I have to disagree, though I only heard the R10 at a meet and never owned one. I can't give any detailed impressions obviously, but the O2 from a pure technical standpoint is in a different league. The R10's main calling card is its midrange, which is nothing short of stunning. But, the O2 also has a midrange that's nothing short of stunning, though it's realistic rather than euphonic, and in most other technical aspects it's superior - especially when it comes to imaging, air, and instrument separation. The R10 naturally is dynamic and has more slam, but the O2 can benefit from a big amp and have some serious slam as well. The R10 definitely has a more euphonic presentation as a whole, however, so if you're after euphony, then this is the way to go (or the HE90).

 Still, the R10 I heard was not in an ideal rig, and I would very much like to hear one driven well. However, given the its price, and given that I'm generally happy with the O2 at the moment, I doubt I'll ever have one.

 Between O2 Mk2 and the R10, though, I'll choose the R10 without hesitation. The R10 has a sound signature that I generally really like. The O2 Mk2 is pretty much the opposite of that


----------



## padam

STAX SR-007 Omega ll KopfhÃ¶rer, der beste der Welt bei eBay.de: (endet 23.11.08 19:30:00 MEZ)
 mk1 or mk2?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX SR-007 Omega ll KopfhÃ¶rer, der beste der Welt bei eBay.de: (endet 23.11.08 19:30:00 MEZ)
 mk1 or mk2?_

 


 MKII 

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Somebody snatch that O2 Mk1 pair in the FS forum before I do something stupid and buy a backup pair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, those usually go fast if the price is right. So better be quick if you see one up for sale..
 Better luck next time! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX SR-007 Omega ll KopfhÃ¶rer, der beste der Welt bei eBay.de: (endet 23.11.08 19:30:00 MEZ)
 mk1 or mk2?_

 

That's and SR-007 MKII.
 The SR-007 and SR-007BL have champagne colored housing.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, those usually go fast if the price is right. So better be quick if you see one up for sale..
 Better luck next time! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Noo, don't encourage him to get a back up pair! Need to share the wealth


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer has me too worried about the cable coming disconnected from the driver on the Mk1 to buy one now. And for some reason I just cannot remember to buy some blu-tak when I am out and about on errands._

 

The cable lead wires breaking isn't very common and you could always swap in a Mk2 cord should the unlikely thing happen.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seller says that R10 is better than O2 mk 1 in almost every way. Anyone has experience with these 2 headphone/speakerphones care to comment?_

 

I don't think the R10 is better than the O2Mk1, but it can depend on the system.

 I use an R10 with a Zana Deux and the O2Mk1 with a Single Power ES-1. When I listen to the R10, I really like its ultra-refinement, superb midrange, treble, details, air, imaging and soundstage. I usually think, "This sounds great, how can it not be my favorite headphone?" But it isn't my favorite, and is actually ranked 5th or maybe even 6th. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 After switching to the O2Mk1, I think that it is a bit darker-sounding. It has a smaller headstage and soundstage. But everything else is as good or better, but different. The O2Mk1 is also ultra-refined, and has good midrange, treble, details, air, imaging and soundstage. It has more bass and better impact than the R10 (more-bass version). Imaging precision is also better than the R10's, and it has more details. The R10's superb midrange is more euphonic, and can seem better or worse than the O2Mk1's depending on the music.

 As much as I like the R10, I prefer the O2Mk1. There's only one headphone I like more than the O2Mk1, which I shouldn't mention in this thread or the Stax Mafia gets annoyed.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

But... we *KNOW* how much you like the HE90.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As much as I like the R10, I prefer the O2Mk1. There's only one headphone I like more than the O2Mk1, which I shouldn't mention in this thread or the Stax Mafia gets annoyed._

 

As Spritzer would say, "There is no Stax Mafia."


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But... we *KNOW* how much you like the HE90. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

Wha? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I meant the O2Mk2. Haven't you seen it sitting on its throne?

 I don't think the Stax Mafia likes the O2Mk2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My theory is that if I keep talking about the Stax Mafia, it will show up eventually. Whether I'll be pleased with the result is another question.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wha? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I meant the O2Mk2. Haven't you seen it sitting on its throne?

 I don't think the Stax Mafia likes the O2Mk2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My theory is that if I keep talking about the Stax Mafia, it will show up eventually. Whether I'll be pleased with the result is another question._

 

Ha! Ha! Ha!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax forum is not just full of info but humour as well. Sherwood being one of the outstanding ones when it comes to the fun department.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Sherwood should be coming to my house Saturday (today) to compare my Stax SR-007 Mk2, Koss ESP950, Senn HE60, SR-Lambda and Lambda Signature, SR-003 and SR-5NB gold edition... Should be fun. 

 I feel bad because Blutarsky was coming too, but his sister is deathly ill (sick for a long time) and he is going out of town to visit her one last time


----------



## donunus

Wish your house was nearby, I'd really love to hear your cans sometime too. Oh well, I might go to the US in a year or two


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think the Stax Mafia likes the O2Mk2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nobody likes the Mk2, not even the dealers which are selling them. Stax may have fixed the design though since I've only had phones here from the early days of manufacture but it impossible to tell without detailed internal pics or me buying a new set directly from Stax.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nobody likes the Mk2, not even the dealers which are selling them. Stax may have fixed the design though since I've only had phones here from the early days of manufacture but it impossible to tell without detailed internal pics or me buying a new set directly from Stax._

 

This post demonstrates that actually a Stax Mafia exists and who's its Godfather


----------



## Elephas

It's not very difficult to find the suspected members of the Stax Mafia.

 From the High-end Audio Forum page, click on the "Replies" column of this thread, "The Stax thread (New)." The number is 8724 as of now.

 You'll see the "Who Posted?" list, otherwise known as the usual suspects list.

 For some weird reason, I'm actually on the list too, but I'm below Sherwood, who is apparently very nice and obviously not a Stax Mafia member.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nobody likes the Mk2, not even the dealers which are selling them. Stax may have fixed the design though since I've only had phones here from the early days of manufacture but it impossible to tell without detailed internal pics or me buying a new set directly from Stax._

 

I have been enjoying my MkII more after they were burned in for a while. Initially they were very detailed and precise and failed a bit in carring the emotional feel of the music to me. Now they are taking on a more musical presentation which provides me the emotion touch with the music that I most enjoy. With this added balance with the emotion touch the MkIIs have moved ahead of my UE9 in enjoyment for me. I am using a KGSS with blackgates for the MkII and the Yamamoto HA-02 for the UE9. Both are being feed by two different Lavry DA10s. 

 But just for arguments sake. Is it not a conflict of interest type of thing for the premier Stax re-builder of headphones to suggest that the current model is deficient? It does help business I would think to keep people always looking for the "gold-standard" in re-built models instead of the current ones. Suggestions such as this in this business carry a lot of presausive power. Slight sound differences are easily asserted as superior when maybe their just different. I know others have made similar posts about how the MkII sounds a little less than the older versions but is this universal? It is hard for me to believe that Stax suggests that they blew it with the MkII? Or is this just a local Stax dealer or two? The way you presented the Stax dealer thing makes me read this as a universal thing with all Stax dealers as well.


----------



## spritzer

There is no Stax mafia!!! (had to do it since this is my 1500th post in the thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But just for arguments sake. Is it not a conflict of interest type of thing for the premier Stax re-builder of headphones to suggest that the current model is deficient? It does help business I would think to keep people always looking for the "gold-standard" in re-built models instead of the current ones. Suggestions such as this in this business carry a lot of presausive power. Slight sound differences are easily asserted as superior when maybe their just different. I know others have made similar posts about how the MkII sounds a little less than the older versions but is this universal? It is hard for me to believe that Stax suggests that they blew it with the MkII? Or is this just a local Stax dealer or two? The way you presented the Stax dealer thing makes me read this as a universal thing with all Stax dealers as well._

 

Why would there be a conflict of interest? I've only converted 3 phones (one for me and two for fellow fanatics which wanted to know what I was talking about) and I've never charged for any Stax modification I've ever done and never will. Be it a SR-X Mk3 Pro or a Sigma 404, I'm not an MOT and will never be. Don't insult me by placing me in a group with the likes of markl. 

 I've been in contact with a few dealers over the years (started with me buying used Stax equipment from them and I kept in touch) and I asked them about their take on the Mk2 shortly after I got mine. I wasn't happy and wanted to know if this was an isolated problem for my set. audiod used to be a Stax dealer in the US and has posted the same, i.e. the people aren't happy with the current direction of Stax. The bottom line is though that the Mk2 isn't a bad headphone by any means but in comparison to the Mk1 it falls short... way short andif you have never heard the Mk1 then you have no way of knowing what the difference is.


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why would there be a conflict of interest? I've only converted 3 phones (one for me and two for fellow fanatics which wanted to know what I was talking about) and I've never charged for any Stax modification I've ever done and never will. Be it a SR-X Mk3 Pro or a Sigma 404, I'm not an MOT and will never be. Don't insult me by placing me in a group with the likes of markl._

 

Sir, I admire you.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I've been in contact with a few dealers over the years (started with me buying used Stax equipment from them and I kept in touch) and I asked them about their take on the Mk2 shortly after I got mine. I wasn't happy and wanted to know if this was an isolated problem for my set. audiod used to be a Stax dealer in the US and has posted the same, i.e. the people aren't happy with the current direction of Stax._

 

The german distributor did complain about the sound quality and now all Mk2s for the german market are different from the japanese.They are already port modded by Stax.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no Stax mafia!!! (had to do it since this is my 1500th post in the thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)



 Why would there be a conflict of interest? I've only converted 3 phones (one for me and two for fellow fanatics which wanted to know what I was talking about) and I've never charged for any Stax modification I've ever done and never will. Be it a SR-X Mk3 Pro or a Sigma 404, I'm not an MOT and will never be. Don't insult me by placing me in a group with the likes of markl. 

 I've been in contact with a few dealers over the years (started with me buying used Stax equipment from them and I kept in touch) and I asked them about their take on the Mk2 shortly after I got mine. I wasn't happy and wanted to know if this was an isolated problem for my set. audiod used to be a Stax dealer in the US and has posted the same, i.e. the people aren't happy with the current direction of Stax. The bottom line is though that the Mk2 isn't a bad headphone by any means but in comparison to the Mk1 it falls short... way short andif you have never heard the Mk1 then you have no way of knowing what the difference is._

 

Obviously I was mistaken in what I had assumed about your avocation as being a re-builder of many Stax headphones. I am sorry about being so mistaken as to make the accusation above. I hope you accept this apology. It may be possible that my MkII is also modified already since it is fairly model.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The german distributor did complain about the sound quality and now all Mk2s for the german market are different from the japanese.They are already port modded by Stax._

 

Thanks for that since it is news to me. Stax has been known to succumb to the pressure of the German distributor in the past so we can only hope that they will see the light and do this to all the models. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Obviously I was mistaken in what I had assumed about your avocation as being a re-builder of many Stax headphones. I am sorry about being so mistaken as to make the accusation above. I hope you accept this apology. It may be possible that my MkII is also modified already since it is fairly model._

 

Apology gladly accepted and I'm sorry about being a bit harsh. I've had way too many PM's in the last few months asking me to mod their Mk2/A's and I'm a bit tired of it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Your set may indeed be modified though that only takes care of the bass issues. The new earpad springs will also have to be discarded in favor of modified versions of the old ones so that the midrange is brought back to normal.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have done the ear-pad spring mod within the first few days of owning the Mk2, and it helped tame the mids just a little. But burn-in is making an even bigger difference in pulling back the mids more in line with the rest of the frequency spectrum.

 I know I don't have the stax fart, so mine can't be bass port modded at the factory. I finally found some HandyTak, but no Blu-Tak.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The german distributor did complain about the sound quality and now all Mk2s for the german market are different from the japanese.They are already port modded by Stax._

 

Any idea what the Stax port mod lools like? Sounds like this forum, where Spritzer first described the port mod, may be having some influence. it would be nice to think that we are not just flapping our gums here but are having an impact on the products we write about.

 I should look at my recent 007A to see what if anything was done to it. I personally don't find it at all bad, and have been in no hurry to do a mod.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The german distributor did complain about the sound quality and now all Mk2s for the german market are different from the japanese.They are already port modded by Stax._

 

Are you suggesting that Stax supply different O2's to different distributors?


----------



## spritzer

The word has spread but the disappointed distributors have far more pull then any of us. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any idea what the Stax port mod lools like?_

 

My guess would be that they use the same piece of resin that is used on the Mk1 or some variation of that.


----------



## Faust2D

So do you think this modded MK2 O2 will sound on par or better than Mk1?


----------



## spritzer

Tough to say since the extent of the mods isn't know. If they reverted back to the old port plug and a modified version of the old earpads springs (they need to be wider to grip the pads and hold them closer to the drivers) they should sound like the phones I've modded i.e. a more forward version of the Mk1. They could also have tinkered with the drivers so this is all just pure speculation...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

FYI - I stretched the springs out from 92mm to 100mm.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Keep them away from dust and don't get them wet. Stax sells a plastic cover although you could use a gallon freezer bag. I personally have never covered mine. I suspect the main problem you may encounter is that if you use a transformer, rather than an amp, you run more risk of driving them to arcing._

 

Sorry for such a late reply, but...

 [size=medium]*DO NOT PUT YOUR STAX PHONES IN A PLASTIC BAG AFTER WEARING THEM!*[/size]

 Chances are this is what made my 303's go defective three times in three years! I'm not absolutely, 100% sure, but this seems the only plausible explanation (too humid an environment in the plastic bag because of the sweat on the pads) according to Kevin Gilmore.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FYI - I stretched the springs out from 92mm to 100mm._

 

That's about the same as I did and also changed the angle on the center pin to make them sit flush.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for such a late reply, but...

 [size=medium]*DO NOT PUT YOUR STAX PHONES IN A PLASTIC BAG AFTER WEARING THEM!*[/size]

 Chances are this is what made my 303's go defective three times in three years! I'm not absolutely, 100% sure, but this seems the only plausible explanation (too humid an environment in the plastic bag because of the sweat on the pads) according to Kevin Gilmore._

 

Good point. I live in a very dry climate (inland Southern California) so moisture is rarely a problem.

 I don't think the Stax cover even closes at the bottom. So if you use a feezer bag, don't seal it.

 Basically I don't think either dust or moisture is a problem with Stax phones under most conditions. Some years ago, one of my windows broke during a windstorm and dust from the neighboring construction site filled the room and led to a $1,000.00 insurance claim. My Stax 404's were in the room and were totally unaffected.


----------



## Sherwood

Gah, after all this praise as to my niceness I totally bail on HeadphoneAddict today...

 I hate to think that my meager knowledge of Stax components has placed my replies above the grand poobah of Estat ownership, the king himself Mr. Elephas, but I guess some of us have gear and some of us have time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry for bailing on you, Larry. I had band practice and my phone is in its cradle. Please try and keep those Sigma Pros until I can make it down this week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Promise.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I don't think the Stax cover even closes at the bottom. So if you use a feezer bag, don't seal it._

 

The bottom is open but there was a strap to partially close it on some versions.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gah, after all this praise as to my niceness I totally bail on HeadphoneAddict today...

 I hate to think that my meager knowledge of Stax components has placed my replies above the grand poobah of Estat ownership, the king himself Mr. Elephas, but I guess some of us have gear and some of us have time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry for bailing on you, Larry. I had band practice and my phone is in its cradle. Please try and keep those Sigma Pros until I can make it down this week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Promise._

 

You have until 7:31PM to be here or the Sigma Pro will be off limits. No Soup For You!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

No Soup! 

 Nah.... He's here, 8 minutes late...


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for such a late reply, but...

 [size=medium]*DO NOT PUT YOUR STAX PHONES IN A PLASTIC BAG AFTER WEARING THEM!*[/size]

 Chances are this is what made my 303's go defective three times in three years! I'm not absolutely, 100% sure, but this seems the only plausible explanation (too humid an environment in the plastic bag because of the sweat on the pads) according to Kevin Gilmore._

 

For example, does this mean you shouldn't put your O2s back into their case shortly after you use them?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you suggesting that Stax supply different O2's to different distributors?_

 

Yes, Reiner (head-fi member RichterDi) has got this information from Werner Zuehlke who is the PR rep of the german Stax distributor.
  Quote:


 Any idea what the Stax port mod lools like? 
 

No, not exactly since all my acquaintances do own Omegas imported via PriceJapan.


----------



## donunus

Ive done it! stax is comin!


----------



## powertoold

AHH!!! I love my Stax setup so much! Thank you Stax Gods for giving me such musical bliss!!! Worth every penny! AHH!!! I'm going crazy from musical bliss.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For example, does this mean you shouldn't put your O2s back into their case shortly after you use them?_

 

In Singapore it is really humid. The humidity can easily cause the Electrostatic speakers to arc. Some quad owners have compalined of arching in our climatic conditions - I can only assume that they are not driving their speakers to to max. Some have compalined that their planer speakers do not last in our climate. Stax electrostatic headphones, so far, has done pretty well. Not heard of driver problems due to the humidity so far - and some have kept them in excess of 15 years and the phones still work fine. When I had my stax F81, which I owned for 2 years or so, I did not have arcing problems. As it more humid here, after wearing them for a while I always leave my stax speakerphones in the open for an hour or two to allow them to dry. Believe me, you can really sweat when the weather is hot (32C to 34 C). Thereafter, I just cover them with a light piece of dry towel to reduce dust problems.


----------



## spritzer

The higher the bias voltage, the more problem you are going to have with humidity unless you can apply even more insulation to either the stators or the diaphragm. The bias on headphones is very low compared to the diaphragm/stator gap since they don't have to be all that efficient as the amps can make up the difference. When you are dealing with 6kV bias (12kV on the latest Sound-Lab units) it a whole other situation and you need as much efficiency as you can get so excessive insulation isn't a luxury you can afford.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The higher the bias voltage, the more problem you are going to have with humidity unless you can apply even more insulation to either the stators or the diaphragm. The bias on headphones is very low compared to the diaphragm/stator gap since they don't have to be all that efficient as the amps can make up the difference. When you are dealing with 6kV bias (12kV on the latest Sound-Lab units) it a whole other situation and you need as much efficiency as you can get so excessive insulation isn't a luxury you can afford._

 

Which is why I suspect stax speakerphones have less problems than some other electrostatic speaker and planer brands. Especially where voltage is high at the speaker end, unwanted amount of humidity can cause arcing or some form of shorting to occur and in some cases put a hole in the diaphragm. I have seen that in some of the speakers.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, Reiner (head-fi member RichterDi) has got this information from Werner Zuehlke who is the PR rep of the german Stax distributor.
 No, not exactly since all my acquaintances do own Omegas imported via PriceJapan._

 

This is kind of hard to believe. How could one claim consistency if the product is differed intentionally? But may be this is the reason for the German Staxes to be the most expensive in the world


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which is why I suspect stax speakerphones have less problems than some other electrostatic speaker and planer brands. Especially where voltage is high at the speaker end, unwanted amount of humidity can cause arching or some form of shorting to occur and in some cases put a hole in the diaphragm. I have seen that in some of the speakers._

 

When the humidity does up then the electrical insulation properties of the air change and can't take as much voltage. Then they can arc and indeed burn a hole in the diaphragm. I've seen this on quite a few Stax headphones over the years but mostly normal bas phones which were mated to transformers. The Pro bias phones can take more voltage but the amps had all but taken over when the Pro bias arrived and they can't arc the phones as easily. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is kind of hard to believe. How could one claim consistency if the product is differed intentionally? But may be this is the reason for the German Staxes to be the most expensive in the world
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Stax has often had regional models which may or may not have sounded differently. The Lambda Pro Classic was mostly sold in Germany and the SR-5NB with cloth cable was more popular in some areas then others.


----------



## Akabeth

I have a question...

 Would a Stax SRM-717 or 727 amplifier work well with all Omegas without changing their original flavors so much? (SR-Ω, SR-007mk1 & mk2) I've read this amp work well with the mk1, and is a good starter amp at the least. Sorry if this has been mentioned time and time again before, I couldn't find anything that depicts results across all Omegas.

 If possible I'm trying to stay away from tube solution or at least after market amps with big footprint, for now. I'm open to suggestions of course.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When the humidity does up then the electrical insulation properties of the air change and can't take as much voltage. Then they can arc and indeed burn a hole in the diaphragm. I've seen this on quite a few Stax headphones over the years but mostly normal bas phones which were mated to transformers. The Pro bias phones can take more voltage but the amps had all but taken over when the Pro bias arrived and they can't arc the phones as easily._

 

Common problem with the humidity we get here for the cause of the holes is where the speakers are pushed hard.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question...

 Would a Stax SRM-717 or 727 amplifier work well with all Omegas without changing their original flavors so much? (SR-Ω, SR-007mk1 & mk2) I've read this amp work well with the mk1, and is a good starter amp at the least. Sorry if this has been mentioned time and time again before, I couldn't find anything that depicts results across all Omegas.

 If possible I'm trying to stay away from tube solution or at least after market amps with big footprint, for now. I'm open to suggestions of course._

 

The 717 is fairly neutral (slightly warm and the soundstage is a bit overblown) so the their individual sound comes through. I would stay away from the 727 since it sounds like a bad tube amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Common problem with the humidity we get here for the cause of the holes is where the speakers are pushed hard._

 

It does help to live up here in the cold north with very low humidity and an excuse to run huge tube or Class A amps.


----------



## donunus

whoa... all this talk about stax and moisture is scaring me. everytime i turn off my airconditioning, there is a little condensation in my room. How do I take care of my stax when this is the case? Just wrap them around a towel every after use?


----------



## jigster

I leave mine in a humidity-controlled dry box just to be safe.


----------



## donunus

excuse my ignorance but what is that?


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_excuse my ignorance but what is that?_

 

I assume is a box for keeping cigars





 It is a box with constant humidity (and often temperature as well) used to store cigars or pipe tobacco


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_excuse my ignorance but what is that?_

 

The "dry box" you mean? Acutally I should have said dry cabinet. Its normally used to keep photographic material and cameras so that mould doesn't grow on the lens or something like that. It keeps the humidity level controlled.

 Some information about dry cabinets can be found here.
Totech America - FAQ for the Electronics Industry - Dry Cabinets


----------



## J-Pak

So the safest thing to do after using my O2 should be leave it on the rack for a little while and then place it back in the flight case?

 The humidity in my room isn't so bad here, running the dehumidifier over 48 hours didn't really pick up that much water.


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The "dry box" you mean? Acutally I should have said dry cabinet. Its normally used to keep photographic material and cameras so that mould doesn't grow on the lens or something like that. It keeps the humidity level controlled.

 Some information about dry cabinets can be found here.
Totech America - FAQ for the Electronics Industry - Dry Cabinets_

 

Aha-well the "box" kind of made thing the cigar boxes.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has often had regional models which may or may not have sounded differently. The Lambda Pro Classic was mostly sold in Germany and the SR-5NB with cloth cable was more popular in some areas then others._

 


 OK, but does it mean that the Lambda Pro Classic sold in Germany was diffierent from the one sold in France for instance or in the USA. "May or may not have sounded differently" seems like a very broad range of probability. Have you experienced stock Stax headphones of the same model purchased in different areas and sounding differently?


----------



## spritzer

Gear voiced differently for some markets has long been the norm in the hi-fi industry so why not Stax as well? I've bought most of my phones from Japan so they all sound the same but there could be some difference that we simply don't know about.


----------



## Kraps

Fair enough. Then how do we know if mk1 sounds supposedly better than mk2 if there is actually no "mk1" or "mk2 sound", but rather "japanese", "american" , "german", etc. sound


----------



## Victor Chew

Sorry, I made the humidity sound so bad. It is not as bad as I have made it out to be. Spritzer your fault as well that we have frightened others! Ha! Ha!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax speakerphones are not that fragile. As Spritzer said, the voltage for stax at the speaker end is not that high. Arcing and burning holes in the speakers is only when it is really humid and you push the phones really hard. This is more so with home rigs in humid climate when people crank up the voulme really loud. After every listening session, wipe off the mositure from the phones pads with a dry piece of cloth and hang the phones on the speaker stands to air for a while (ie. 1 hour should be more than enough). Thereafter, I just use a piece of light towel to cover over it to prevent excess dust. You can use a dry cabinet as jigster suggested but I am a bit of a lazy person in this aspect. Further, when amps continue to charge the phones even when off you will need to have a hole in the dry cabinet for the wires to be connected. I believe the BH continues to keep the phones charged even when it is off; but I stand corrected. Spritzer will be more knowledgeable in this aspect.


----------



## edstrelow

I finally opened up my new 007A to try the Spritzer bluetac(actually whitetac) mod. As best I can see there was no difference in the port from the earlier 007A's i.e. the port is wide open.






 I will post my impressions of the sonic changes later.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I finally opened up my new 007A to try the Spritzer bluetac(actually whitetac) mod. As best I can see there was no difference in the port from the earlier 007A's i.e. the port is wide open.


 I will post my impressions of the sonic changes later._

 

I'd like to see a photo from the same angle after the blu-tak, please.


----------



## The Monkey

So who likes the mkII better than the mkI. I'd be interested in those observations, but can't wade through this monster of a thread.


----------



## Sherwood

I don't think many would be so bold as to admit it here if they did...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think many would be so bold as to admit it here if they did..._

 

Aw, heck, not everyone on this board is a sissy.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So who likes the mkII better than the mkI. I'd be interested in those observations, but can't wade through this monster of a thread._

 

Elephas comes to mind. He recently said he still thinks the MK2 is better - only one I remember reading.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to see a photo from the same angle after the blu-tak, please._

 

Sorry I didn't take that shot. You just fill in the space between the black ridge at the bottom, and the upper ledge of the white section. Its all pretty obvious where the gap is when you see it live.

 As regards the sound of the 007A, I consider it exceptional and very neutral sounding. I have been in no hurry to try the blutac mod because I wasn't sure it was needed. However I have not heard the 007 so I can't compare it. However I do recall a lot of comment about it being dark, i.e. bassy.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry I didn't take that shot. You just fill in the space between the black ridge at the bottom, and the upper ledge of the white section. Its all pretty obvious where the gap is when you see it live.

 As regards the sound of the 007A, I consider it exceptional and very neutral sounding. I have been in no hurry to try the blutac mod because I wasn't sure it was needed. However I have not heard the 007 so I can't compare it. However I do recall a lot of comment about it being dark, i.e. bassy._

 

How deep did you fill the hole?

 How do you like it now? I have not been in a hurry to do the port mod, although I had to do the ear-pad spring mod right away. Burn-in has helped pull the mids back as much or more than the earpad mod. I do have the HandiTak to do it now...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How deep did you fill the hole?

 How do you like it now? I have not been in a hurry to do the port mod, although I had to do the ear-pad spring mod right away. Burn-in has helped pull the mids back as much or more than the earpad mod. I do have the HandiTak to do it now..._

 

See my new thread TO TWEAK OR NOT TO TWEAK.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

More Stax and Stats comparisons - O2 and GES still wins, weird:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f45/11...-d2000-381949/


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fair enough. Then how do we know if mk1 sounds supposedly better than mk2 if there is actually no "mk1" or "mk2 sound", but rather "japanese", "american" , "german", etc. sound_

 

The sound of the Mk1 is well established and I've compared phones from Japan, Europe and the US with no difference in sound. The Mk2 should be viewed as a work in progress since Stax almost always makes some changes after the phones have entered production, they changed the cable on the Sigma and the damping, there was a new earpad design for the Lambda, the SR-Omega went through a few changes and the 4070 was redesigned with new cups after a tragic design flaw. The German market may only be the first to get redesigned Mk2's and others might follow suit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I made the humidity sound so bad. It is not as bad as I have made it out to be. Spritzer your fault as well that we have frightened others! Ha! Ha!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Stax speakerphones are not that fragile. As Spritzer said, the voltage for stax at the speaker end is not that high. Arcing and burning holes in the speakers is only when it is really humid and you push the phones really hard. This is more so with home rigs in humid climate when people crank up the voulme really loud. After every listening session, wipe off the mositure from the phones pads with a dry piece of cloth and hang the phones on the speaker stands to air for a while (ie. 1 hour should be more than enough). Thereafter, I just use a piece of light towel to cover over it to prevent excess dust. You can use a dry cabinet as jigster suggested but I am a bit of a lazy person in this aspect. Further, when amps continue to charge the phones even when off you will need to have a hole in the dry cabinet for the wires to be connected. I believe the BH continues to keep the phones charged even when it is off; but I stand corrected. Spritzer will be more knowledgeable in this aspect._

 

Some of the old BH (and KGSS) amps have an "always on bias supply" which continues to supply bias after the amp is turned off but this fad has mostly died out now. There was no need for it in the first place since the phones charge up in an instant (unless they have a parasitic charge stuck on the diaphragm which is rare) but the amp takes a few hours to warm up. This change was blamed on the phones charging up which isn't the case.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Spritzer - the ESP950 you sold me take a few minutes to charge up, both symmetrically slow chargers. I assumed that was normal for them, since it's been like that from "day 1". They sound great once charged, but for the first 2-3 seconds there is no sound at all, then it starts getting louder and louder over the next 2-3 minutes like the volume knob is being slowly turned up.

 Should I be worried?


----------



## donunus

Sorry to seem ignorant! do stax cans have burn in or is it only warm up before every use that is needed for optimal sound?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer - the ESP950 you sold me take a few minutes to charge up, both symmetrically slow chargers. I assumed that was normal for them, since it's been like that from "day 1". They sound great once charged, but for the first 2-3 seconds there is no sound at all, then it starts getting louder and louder over the next 2-3 minutes like the volume knob is being slowly turned up.

 Should I be worried?_

 

No need to be worried since the Koss design is different from Stax. A couple of seconds to charge up can be normal but people were talking about hours which isn't normal unless you are talking about the old normal bias phones.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer - the ESP950 you sold me take a few minutes to charge up, both symmetrically slow chargers. I assumed that was normal for them, since it's been like that from "day 1". They sound great once charged, but for the first 2-3 seconds there is no sound at all, then it starts getting louder and louder over the next 2-3 minutes like the volume knob is being slowly turned up.

 Should I be worried?_

 

Mine come up to about 80% in just a few seconds. Remember they have a lifetime warranty! I'm on my third set. Three is the charm.


----------



## padam

I was supposed to buy the Stax set today evening, but unfortunately an unexpected event prevented it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But at least I could hear how it sounded (I didn't realize that I had been listening to it for an hour or so
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and I know that now or later I will get one.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The german distributor did complain about the sound quality and now all Mk2s for the german market are different from the japanese.They are already port modded by Stax._

 






 Are you sure that there is a new (port-modded) version of SR-007mk2 ???
 And I wonder why japanese or americans do not complain so effectively of their mk2's to provoke a port mod


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Are you sure that there is a new (port-modded) version of SR-007mk2 ???_

 

I didn't disassemble them for a comparison but as aforementioned Mr. Zuehlke, the PR representative of Stax Germany, claims it.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't disassemble them for a comparison but as aforementioned Mr. Zuehlke, the PR representative of Stax Germany, claims it._

 

It's exclusive news (for me at least) to know that Stax officialy admit their failure with the new mk2 model of their flagsjip model. Is there any information about a new version of Omega IImk2 from a source more close to the Stax head office?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Are you sure that there is a new (port-modded) version of SR-007mk2 ???
 And I wonder why japanese or americans do not complain so effectively of their mk2's to provoke a port mod 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would guess...
 1. The MK2 are not sold in Japan. Its for export only...
 2. Very few americans are probably aware of the major design change, and hence don't care/know.

 Its nice to see that the german distributor have complained to Stax about it though, and that its "fixed" on their 'phones. Hopefully Stax learn from it (again).


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would guess...
 1. The MK2 are not sold in Japan. Its for export only..._

 

Well... is there any difference between SR-007II and SR-007A ? 
 Maybe I did miss something.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well... is there any difference between SR-007II and SR-007A ? 
 Maybe I did miss something._

 

Well, just minor differences.
 * Housing color.
 * Model name.

 Ok, I am nitpicking..


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer - the ESP950 you sold me take a few minutes to charge up, both symmetrically slow chargers. I assumed that was normal for them, since it's been like that from "day 1". They sound great once charged, but for the first 2-3 seconds there is no sound at all, then it starts getting louder and louder over the next 2-3 minutes like the volume knob is being slowly turned up.

 Should I be worried?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No need to be worried since the Koss design is different from Stax. A couple of seconds to charge up can be normal but people were talking about hours which isn't normal unless you are talking about the old normal bias phones._

 

Interesting. My ESP950 is charged the very instance I plug them in. I am curious about this as well. This might confirm that newer models have lightly different drivers, or not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, seeing as how mine are APureSound re-cabled and modified, I don't want to lose the work by sending them in to Koss, especially if they sound great once they hit full volume after a few minutes.

 Spritzer - what if instead of discharging them every time I am done using them and packing them away, I plug them into my SRD-7 Pro to stay charged up to be ready to use right away? Will that add parasitic capacitance and ruin them? Otherwise I'll just live with the slowish charging.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, seeing as how mine are APureSound re-cabled and modified, I don't want to lose the work by sending them in to Koss, especially if they sound great once they hit full volume after a few minutes.

 Spritzer - what if instead of discharging them every time I am done using them and packing them away, I plug them into my SRD-7 Pro to stay charged up to be ready to use right away? Will that add parasitic capacitance and ruin them? Otherwise I'll just live with the slowish charging._

 

If you know a DIY'er in your area, you can remove the cable and send them in to Koss. Apparently the warranty still applies.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. My ESP950 is charged the very instance I plug them in. I am curious about this as well. This might confirm that newer models have lightly different drivers, or not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Could also be the bias supply in the amps and the different load resistor Stax have used over the years. I never noticed this on the 717 but I have no idea what bias supply is in the GES and how it is configured. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, seeing as how mine are APureSound re-cabled and modified, I don't want to lose the work by sending them in to Koss, especially if they sound great once they hit full volume after a few minutes.

 Spritzer - what if instead of discharging them every time I am done using them and packing them away, I plug them into my SRD-7 Pro to stay charged up to be ready to use right away? Will that add parasitic capacitance and ruin them? Otherwise I'll just live with the slowish charging._

 

Since the real cause of the electret effect isn't know it's hard to speculate but if you have them charged up I'd have them under a good dustcover.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could also be the bias supply in the amps and the different load resistor Stax have used over the years. I never noticed this on the 717 but I have no idea what bias supply is in the GES and how it is configured._

 

It has been this way with any amp, GES or SRM-1 Mk2 Pro or SRD-7 Pro. I guess it is time to try the stock Koss E9 amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since the real cause of the electret effect isn't know it's hard to speculate but if you have them charged up I'd have them under a good dustcover._

 

I always keep them inside a porous headphone bag, or in the case with the cord hanging out if plugged in.


----------



## powertoold

Are there any mods for the SRM-1/MK-2 other than rewiring the inputs? Does anyone know where to buy some quality silver core wire and low-mass female RCA connectors for the job?

 Also, are there any mods for the SR-5NB? It seems like a promising phone


----------



## evil-zen

You can ask Tachikoma regarding the modding of SR-5NB. I think his is a frankenSR-5NB now.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Got my normal Lambdas singing today! The Pop Pulse amp is a good match apparently. BIG bass! Smooth, fast, natural mmmmmmmmm good!

 So my total system is :

 Windows Media Loss less > X-FI elite pro modded w/ LM4562 $100 > Blue Dragon mini to rca I/C $75 > Pop Pulse T40i amp $140 > SRD-7 $100 > Lambda Normal bias $200 = $615 total. 

 Not bad sounding for that. When I get a better dac watch out!


----------



## padam

Well, it seems that my hopes of getting a decent used Stax system haven't been gone...stay tuned for a bigger writeup


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can ask Tachikoma regarding the modding of SR-5NB. I think his is a frankenSR-5NB now._

 

Heh, I've over-modded mine a bit, and now I think I need a new housing since I've screwed up the old one.

 Thats also the main reason I wanted your SR-5NB, powertoold. But I've decided to wait till next year before buying anything... hopefully the AUD will have some semblance of value by then.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I've over-modded mine a bit, and now I think I need a new housing since I've screwed up the old one.

 Thats also the main reason I wanted your SR-5NB, powertoold. But I've decided to wait till next year before buying anything... hopefully the AUD will have some semblance of value by then._

 

There is a normal SR-5 on ebay for $99 buy now, maybe they would ship to down under and you'd have a housing.


----------



## powertoold

I don't like the SR-5NB very much. I feel like the low bass is recessed compared to my Lambda Pros. When I'm listening to Krall on my Lambdas, I can hear a soft pillowy bass, but with the SR-5NB, I can't hear it. Also, why did Stax put that horrible plastic covering over the driver? Doesn't that mess with the sound a lot?

 I wanted to figure out a way to remove the cover, but it's a large solid piece of plastic.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't like the SR-5NB very much. I feel like the low bass is recessed compared to my Lambda Pros. When I'm listening to Krall on my Lambdas, I can hear a soft pillowy bass, but with the SR-5NB, I can't hear it. Also, why did Stax put that horrible plastic covering over the driver? Doesn't that mess with the sound a lot?

 I wanted to figure out a way to remove the cover, but it's a large solid piece of plastic._

 

Hmm, what song should I cue up to listen for this in my SR-5NB?


----------



## Sherwood

If I'm not mistaken, that plastic is an integral part of the driver. The SR-5s are electret, not electrostatic, meaning they're more like orthos or planars than normal stats. This is a little out of my depth, but I'm reasonably certain that removing the plastic "cover" would render them useless.

 It's not surprising that your SR-5NB aren't as good as your Lambda pros, though -- they aren't on the same level.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I'm not mistaken, that plastic is an integral part of the driver. The SR-5s are electret, not electrostatic, meaning they're more like orthos or planars than normal stats. This is a little out of my depth, but I'm reasonably certain that removing the plastic "cover" would render them useless.

 It's not surprising that your SR-5NB aren't as good as your Lambda pros, though -- they aren't on the same level._

 

SR-5 ARE electrostatic, not electret. They will not run on an SRD-4 that has no bias voltage. They use 230v normal bias.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-5 ARE electrostatic, not electret. They will not run on an SRD-4 that has no bias voltage. They use 230v normal bias._

 

That, and electrets are electrostatic. 

 Apart from the weird back-electrets from toshiba/aurex and A-T/Signet, the only difference is that the bias is provided by the semi-permanent charge applied to the membrane plastic by heating it to it's melting point inside of a very strong field. 

 Sensitivity is a bit less both because the electret film is thicker stuff and because the bias isn't as strong, but it's still an electrostatic design consisting of a tensioned biased diaphragm and active stators.


----------



## Sherwood

Well I'll be.


----------



## spritzer

The plastic bit is the dust cover and without it you would have no difference in sound and a driver that would last a few weeks at most.


----------



## eduj

I have this rather crazy idea (well this is head-fi so... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) to 
 recable my Stax SR003 with a higher end Stax cable.I like these babystaxes
 because they are so light and comfy (to me)but i hate the cable.Too
 short,too flimsy and the Y split is waaay too low.And the sound will,propably, be better.Do you know anyone who would do the job?I asked apuresound b/c he recables Koss stats but he said no.Anyone?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, it seems that my hopes of getting a decent used Stax system haven't been gone...stay tuned for a bigger writeup 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice to hear!
 I am sure you will be well pleased with the SR-404 & SRM-1/MK2 combo.


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my normal Lambdas singing today! The Pop Pulse amp is a good match apparently. BIG bass! Smooth, fast, natural mmmmmmmmm good!

 So my total system is :

 Windows Media Loss less > X-FI elite pro modded w/ LM4562 $100 > Blue Dragon mini to rca I/C $75 > Pop Pulse T40i amp $140 > SRD-7 $100 > Lambda Normal bias $200 = $615 total. 

 Not bad sounding for that. When I get a better dac watch out!_

 

Glad everything is working out for you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enjoy them.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, what song should I cue up to listen for this in my SR-5NB?_

 

You can try to listen to "I'm thru with love" in All for You for the depth of the sustain pedals and bass in general, but I'm not sure your opinion will change


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice to hear!
 I am sure you will be well pleased with the SR-404 & SRM-1/MK2 combo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

One could stop right there and be perfectly happy. Of course, it's also the perfect gateway combo...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can try to listen to "I'm thru with love" in All for You for the depth of the sustain pedals and bass in general, but I'm not sure your opinion will change 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have 5 of her CD's but not that one. But some of her songs on Girl in the Other Room have a thumpy sustain pedal I can listen for. Oh well.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One could stop right there and be perfectly happy. Of course, it's also the perfect gateway combo..._

 

Unfortunately that deal fell off due to unexpected events, but now there's a new (and probably last) local deal on a SRM-T1S & Lambda Nova Signature. Seems to be in very good condition and the amp was checked buy Stax Germany a few years ago. It costs a little bit more, but if it sounds as expected I will not hesitate to buy it because the owner upgraded and he is willing to help if there is any problem with it.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have 5 of her CD's but not that one. But some of her songs on Girl in the Other Room have a thumpy sustain pedal I can listen for. Oh well._

 

of all the Krall choices, the nat cole tribute is the best one. it was her best effort in both playing and singing. she swings her A** off, more on that album then on any that followed it. imho..

 its on my listening list for when my stax finally get here.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One could stop right there and be perfectly happy. Of course, it's also the perfect gateway combo..._

 

So true!
 Especially when hanging around Head-Fi, and get exposed to SR-007's and like.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So true!
 Especially when hanging around Head-Fi, and get exposed to SR-007's and like. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2


----------



## Akabeth

This waiting game is killing me...

 I must say I'm unusually anxious, this almost never happens with just 'any' purchase in my entire life; in fact I haven't experience this sort of hype with any audio gear I've ever purchased... 

 My expectations for the Ω2 setup? EXTREMELY high; a LOT higher than than the R10.
 Keep in mind I've only auditioned the mk2 at Ray's crib.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This waiting game is killing me...

 I must say I'm unusually anxious, this almost never happens with just 'any' purchase in my entire life; in fact I haven't experience this sort of hype with any audio gear I've ever purchased... 

 My expectations for the Ω2 setup? EXTREMELY high; a LOT higher than than the R10.
 Keep in mind I've only auditioned the mk2 at Ray's crib._

 

I hope you have not set yourself up for a disappointment with such expectations. They are great headphones but they are not magical.


----------



## johnmatrix

Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of 007mkI and I enjoying them immensely. I am running them out my KGSS at 600V bias as that is supposed to be the best from what I have read. The headphones are comfortable and fit nicely over the ears. The first thing I noticed was the bass; it went deeper than the esp950s and is the best headphone bass I had heard to date. I can see how these are labeled dark phones at meets. The bass overwhelms and you don't stay with the phone. However, I have found if you keep listening everything is there and balanced. It is just the bass is that attention grabbing. I will post more detailed impressions later and I think I will be selling with my esp950s; they just don't compare. ( and they shouldn't for a third of the price.)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of 007mkI and I enjoying them immensely. I am running them out my KGSS at 600V bias as that is supposed to be the best from what I have read. The headphones are comfortable and fit nicely over the ears. The first thing I noticed was the bass; it went deeper than the esp950s and is the best headphone bass I had heard to date. I can see how these are labeled dark phones at meets. The bass overwhelms and you don't stay with the phone. However, I have found if you keep listening everything is there and balanced. It is just the bass is that attention grabbing. I will post more detailed impressions later and I think I will be selling with my esp950s; they just don't compare. ( and they shouldn't for a third of the price.)_

 

After getting used to my O2 Mk2 I was also going to sell my re-cabled ESP950 (Stax PC-OCC cable), but realized that they offer a nice contrasting sound with excellent midrange detail and transparency. I'm keeping both, along with my HE60, and sold my SR-Lambda Signature instead (too similar to my SR-Lambda).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

hey guys, finally got my sr-lambda's and my srd-7sb today. the cable connection on the sb is terminated in to 4 wires with flat Fork ends. is there a way to make this work with a modern amplifier speaker connection without cutting off the fork?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys, finally got my sr-lambda's and my srd-7sb today. the cable connection on the sb is terminated in to 4 wires with flat Fork ends. is there a way to make this work with a modern amplifier speaker connection without cutting off the fork?_

 

If your speaker amp has binding posts that screw down they will work. In my case I installed gold plated banana plugs on all my SRD boxes.


----------



## Sherwood

Those fork ends are likely spades, and a modern amplifier should have no problem with them. Just uncrew the plastic part, slide the spade around the metal part, and screw it back down. If that doesn't work, cut 'em off and run the bare wire in.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys, finally got my sr-lambda's and my srd-7sb today. the cable connection on the sb is terminated in to 4 wires with flat Fork ends. is there a way to make this work with a modern amplifier speaker connection without cutting off the fork?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 So the binding posts on your speaker amplifier don't take spades. Thats quite rare, but I guess it happens. In that case you may work around it by some short cable ends and tape, or simply cut off the spades


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of 007mkI and I enjoying them immensely. I am running them out my KGSS at 600V bias as that is supposed to be the best from what I have read. The headphones are comfortable and fit nicely over the ears. The first thing I noticed was the bass; it went deeper than the esp950s and is the best headphone bass I had heard to date. I can see how these are labeled dark phones at meets. The bass overwhelms and you don't stay with the phone. However, I have found if you keep listening everything is there and balanced. It is just the bass is that attention grabbing. I will post more detailed impressions later and I think I will be selling with my esp950s; they just don't compare. ( and they shouldn't for a third of the price.)_

 

Well I would say they do compare, just not that favorably. Koss are very very nice but O2 is better in almost all aspects. However I can see how someone can like Lambda or ESP950 sound-signature better. Enjoy your O2 I know I am and I don't even have KGSS


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you have not set yourself up for a disappointment with such expectations. They are great headphones but they are not magical._

 

Oh no, not at all. In fact the reason why I stated I have extremely high expectations for this thing is: I have a set preconceptions about their sound and technical prowess. I can't wait for it to get here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *[snip]*

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys, finally got my sr-lambda's and my srd-7sb today...._

 

Awesome Keith


----------



## padam

Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh). It still needs a decent DAC but sounded wonderfully with the seller's Denon DVD player. The Nova Signature seemed to be more laid-back than the (1 month old) SR-404. I didn't hear them side by side and I didn't have much time because of the late arrival time, so I might be wrong on that. But it doesn't really matter for me, 'cause it seems to be on a new level compared any of the dynamics I heard.
 Of course, a decent DAC is needed to complete my system, but I will be patient.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh)._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 SR-Lambda Nova Signature and SRM-T1, right?

 It sure looks nice, and I am sure it sounds nice as well (I have never heard those).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So the binding posts on your speaker amplifier don't take spades. Thats quite rare, but I guess it happens. In that case you may work around it by some short cable ends and tape, or simply cut off the spades_

 

yes, very strange. there is plastic around the bass of the binding post. as you unscrew it, there is a place to put bare wire, but it wont unscrew enough to place the fork around the post. I'm going to continue to look at it closely when I get a better chance, as I am not very hip to cutting off the connectors. its odd for it to be set up for banana plugs and bare wire, but not the "spades" (if thats what it is).


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 SR-Lambda Nova Signature and SRM-T1, right?

 It sure looks nice, and I am sure it sounds nice as well (I have never heard those)._

 

SRM-T1S, almost 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes it does but not until I get a DAC


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh). It still needs a decent DAC but sounded wonderfully with the seller's Denon DVD player. The Nova Signature seemed to be more laid-back than the (1 month old) SR-404. I didn't hear them side by side and I didn't have much time because of the late arrival time, so I might be wrong on that. But it doesn't really matter for me, 'cause it seems to be on a new level compared any of the dynamics I heard.
 Of course, a decent DAC is needed to complete my system, but I will be patient._

 

Congrats with a magnificent combo. I agree with you that the LNS is more laid back (=neutral!) than the 404. It´s perhaps the Lambda that is closest to the 007.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh). It still needs a decent DAC but sounded wonderfully with the seller's Denon DVD player. The Nova Signature seemed to be more laid-back than the (1 month old) SR-404. I didn't hear them side by side and I didn't have much time because of the late arrival time, so I might be wrong on that. But it doesn't really matter for me, 'cause it seems to be on a new level compared any of the dynamics I heard.
 Of course, a decent DAC is needed to complete my system, but I will be patient._

 

I think you likely ended up with a better system than if you had gotten a 404 with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.


----------



## Goosepond

Not to rain on anyone's parade here, but here's my story.

 From hanging around Head-Fi in general and this thread in particular, I recently arrived at the SRM-717 OM/Mk1 combo, both also bought here on Head-Fi.

 They are easily the best things headphone-wise I've had. More than anything, I was impressed with the bass of the Stax. I don't know if it's just the OM's or the 717 or the combo, but ohhh so nice.

 But in the end, I've just spent too much money on this hobby. I've also got the 404's and Spritzer's SRM-T1S and have decided I can easily live with this pair.

 So if anyone is interested in relieving me of my burden 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 , let me know.

 Gene


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh). It still needs a decent DAC but sounded wonderfully with the seller's Denon DVD player. The Nova Signature seemed to be more laid-back than the (1 month old) SR-404. I didn't hear them side by side and I didn't have much time because of the late arrival time, so I might be wrong on that. But it doesn't really matter for me, 'cause it seems to be on a new level compared any of the dynamics I heard.
 Of course, a decent DAC is needed to complete my system, but I will be patient._

 

Congrats!BTW I think that SRM-T1S is one gorgeous looking amp.I'm going to get the SR404 too,since i _really_ like the SR303 and from what i read 404 is a more refined version of 303,with a better cable.
 BTW i like the look of the lambdas/sr303/404.This nerdy'geeky 70s hi-fi look.I know most people think they are ugly but i love the look


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats!BTW I think that SRM-T1S is one gorgeous looking amp.I'm going to get the SR404 too,since i really like the SR303 and from what i read 404 is a more refined version of 303,with a better cable.
 BTW i like the look of the lambdas/sr303/404.This nerdy'geeky 70s hi-fi look.I know most people think they are ugly but i love the look 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

At the moment, together with the Audio-Technica ATH-ESW10JPN they look like the Beauty and the Beast 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, is it a totally crazy idea to get myself a mini-RCA IC and hook it up to my girl's Sony mp4 player and play 320kbps aac files on it? I would like to experience at least a little part of the Stax experience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But if it is pointless, I won't try it.
 But one thing is for sure: I need to wait a certain amount of time for a DAC it deserves.


----------



## eduj

Crazy no but it won't sound that great.Stax gear is diva-like:They demand the best shoes..err...source you can buy for them


----------



## jigster

Just setup my new "old" BH today and..... wow....





 Does anyone know how I can bias the tubes on the BH? Or do need to bias it at all?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just setup my new "old" BH today and..... wow....
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ateNov08-1.jpg

 Does anyone know how I can bias the tubes on the BH? Or do need to bias it at all?_

 

Can't help you with the question about the KGBH.
 But have to chime in telling that I really like your setup. Clean, minimalist, .. just the way I like.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eduj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Crazy no but it won't sound that great.Stax gear is diva-like:They demand the best shoes..err...source you can buy for them_

 

I decided that it' just a silly idea so I will wait patiently instead


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just setup my new "old" BH today and..... wow....
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ateNov08-1.jpg

 Does anyone know how I can bias the tubes on the BH? Or do need to bias it at all?_

 

That one looks a bit familiar... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You need to bias the tubes each time you change them and it's a good idea to check the bias every few months though I've never found the amp to drift much. PM me your email address and I'll send you the instructions. You will have to move the amp though since the top needs to be open while biasing.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the system that I bought yesterday(looks better in the flesh). It still needs a decent DAC but sounded wonderfully with the seller's Denon DVD player. The Nova Signature seemed to be more laid-back than the (1 month old) SR-404. I didn't hear them side by side and I didn't have much time because of the late arrival time, so I might be wrong on that. But it doesn't really matter for me, 'cause it seems to be on a new level compared any of the dynamics I heard.
 Of course, a decent DAC is needed to complete my system, but I will be patient._

 

Nice buy! The Nova Signatures are a nice and relatively efficient phone compared with the O2 (despite their Stax quoted efficiency supposedly being the same). They sound very good, apart from a slightly bright upper mid (surprise!), but they should sound better than the 404 and your SRM T1S should tame the peak a little. Have a look for an Apogee Mini-DAC - I am having good results running the system all-balanced from the Studer CD player to Mini-DAC to SRM 717 to any of 3 Stax headphones - the Nova Signatures sound less bright when connected balanced rather than single ended to the SRM-717 (the Studer has SE outputs as well as balanced).


----------



## Faust2D

I structured my LNS system this way: 

*Pioneer PD-65 *-> [glass optical]-> *Museatex Bitstream DAC* ->[Omega Micro RAC cables]-> *Stax SRM-T1S* (with Toshiba tubes) -> *LNS*





 I tried Sylvania and RCA tubes as well and Toshiba's are a bit nicer, RCA clear top in second place with Sylvania still good but less resolving of all three. I also feel that with glass optical cable my system is more resolving than with my canare coax, could be placebo, but I left the glass cable in. If it sounds good don't fudge it up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also use that same setup for all my other stats, but I set it up with LNS in mind. O2 sounds very good as well but a bit dark, something that only my "still in the works" GU50 amp might solve.


----------



## John Buchanan

The O2 would most likely be underpowered in that system, whereas the LNS would do well and sound very nice. The SRM1 Mk2 would be just borderline power wise. The SRM-717 is OK as far as I can tell.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Goosepond* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But in the end, I've just spent too much money on this hobby. I've also got the 404's and Spritzer's SRM-T1S and have decided I can easily live with this pair.

 So if anyone is interested in relieving me of my burden 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , let me know.Gene_

 

Personally, I would keep the SRM 717 and sell the SRM T1S. That 717 is a classic.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Got an Oritek Zhalou coming to meet my Lambdas. Very excited. They already sing with my modded X-FI. Bit-perfect into the zhalou and we'll see just how far into the music I can get. Pretty amazing detail levels already lol.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally, I would keep the SRM 717 and sell the SRM T1S. That 717 is a classic._

 

I have both the 717 and the T1s to drive my LNS. The LNS sounds thicker with the T1s, but a little less controlled generally. With the 717, the music is more laid back and separation is better. Further, with the power of the 717 the LNS appers to benefit with more control. As I prefer my music to be more laid back, I will, like John prefer to keep the 717. The difference is not huge though. With the T1s driving the LNS, many will be happy for a long time.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That one looks a bit familiar... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You need to bias the tubes each time you change them and it's a good idea to check the bias every few months though I've never found the amp to drift much. PM me your email address and I'll send you the instructions. You will have to move the amp though since the top needs to be open while biasing._

 

Spritzer "familiar"? Sat in your home for some time I guess!!! The BHSE is running at more than 1500v. Biasing has to be done with the amp on. Pls be careful and get a long sleeved screw driver Jigster. The amp was just looked into by Justin I believe; so he might have biased it already. In any case, it is still good to learn how to bias it. If in doubt, get others to do it for you. As a last note, biasing requires a lot of patience and concentration as the turns can be very minute.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 would most likely be underpowered in that system, whereas the LNS would do well and sound very nice. The SRM1 Mk2 would be just borderline power wise. The SRM-717 is OK as far as I can tell._

 

I have SRM-1Mk2 Pro and I like O2 with T1S much more, go figure.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have both the 717 and the T1s to drive my LNS. The LNS sounds thicker with the T1s, but a little less controlled generally. With the 717, the music is more laid back and separation is better. Further, with the power of the 717 the LNS appers to benefit with more control. As I prefer my music to be more laid back, I will, like John prefer to keep the 717. The difference is not huge though. With the T1s driving the LNS, many will be happy for a long time._

 


 LONG LIVE THE 717!


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That one looks a bit familiar... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You need to bias the tubes each time you change them and it's a good idea to check the bias every few months though I've never found the amp to drift much. PM me your email address and I'll send you the instructions. You will have to move the amp though since the top needs to be open while biasing._

 

Thanks, sent you a pm.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer "familiar"? Sat in your home for some time I guess!!! The BHSE is running at more than 1500v. Biasing has to be done with the amp on. Pls be careful and get a long sleeved screw driver Jigster. The amp was just looked into by Justin I believe; so he might have biased it already. In any case, it is still good to learn how to bias it. If in doubt, get others to do it for you. As a last note, biasing requires a lot of patience and concentration as the turns can be very minute._

 

Yup, will do. Wanna learn how to do it in case I decide to muck around with different tubes, they came with 4 different sets; Mullard XF4s, Golden Dragons, Valve Art and one other set that I can't remember now.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't help you with the question about the KGBH.
 But have to chime in telling that I really like your setup. Clean, minimalist, .. just the way I like. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks.
 Was using a CEC TL1 (transport), Electrocompaniet ECD-1 (Dac), Stax T1W (Pre-amp) and a Passlabs Aleph 30(power amp) which I felt made my system look cluttered especially with all that cabling behind. So i got rid of all except the ECD-1 and now it looks much better. But I find the Orpheus a bit harsher than the TL-1, which was more analogue-like. Though with the Orpheus, the sound is more cleaner and detailed.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer "familiar"? Sat in your home for some time I guess!!! The BHSE is running at more than 1500v. Biasing has to be done with the amp on. Pls be careful and get a long sleeved screw driver Jigster. The amp was just looked into by Justin I believe; so he might have biased it already. In any case, it is still good to learn how to bias it. If in doubt, get others to do it for you. As a last note, biasing requires a lot of patience and concentration as the turns can be very minute._

 

Yup, that's my old amp. A stock Blue Hawaii runs at +/-400v (which translates into about 1500v of output) so a plastic trimpot adjuster is a good idea. They can be bought off ebay for very little. 

 The BH is very easy to bias compared to something like the Stax amps and many speaker amps. Justin uses multi-turn pots so you have more range to dial in the exact values. The BHSE will use the same system but the pots are accessible through the top of the chassis (look for small holes next to the tubes) to make life easier. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, will do. Wanna learn how to do it in case I decide to muck around with different tubes, they came with 4 different sets; Mullard XF4s, Golden Dragons, Valve Art and one other set that I can't remember now._

 

The last set is RFT (East German 1980's) but I can't remember the label on them, perhaps AEG or some other German corporation. The Mullard XF2's are the holy grail and will show you why I rambled on quite a bit about this amp. Expensive though but last a very long time. 

 PM and email on your way shortly.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, that's my old amp. A stock Blue Hawaii runs at +/-400v (which translates into about 1500v of output) so a plastic trimpot adjuster is a good idea. They can be bought off ebay for very little._

 

Are these plastic screwdrivers with a cross head (+ head)?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mullard XF2's are the holy grail and will show you why I rambled on quite a bit about this amp. Expensive though but last a very long time. 

 PM and email on your way shortly._

 

Tried to bid a few times for the XF2s on ebay but they have almost always gone beyond my budget.


----------



## DannyB

I have both amps and seem to prefer the KGSS over the 007t1, although I'm a tubehead at heart. Am I missing something on the Stax amp, with which I have already done some tube rolling...I currently have RCAs in it. ? It seems a bit mushy on the bottom end and somewhat veiled in the upper end. Am I starting to convert to a solid state person in my old age? Oh my, that's not a good thing is it?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ It seems a bit mushy on the bottom end and somewhat veiled in the upper end._

 

Yup, that sounds like the 007t to me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are these plastic screwdrivers with a cross head (+ head)?_

 

You need a flat head for the trimpots and Torx T6 to open up the amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tried to bid a few times for the XF2s on ebay but they have almost always gone beyond my budget._

 

Nobody said they were cheap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's also a good idea to own a tube tester when dealing with old tubes off ebay since not all sellers are honest and tubes can be damaged in shipping. A bad tube can blow up the amp.


----------



## DannyB

Is the 717 significantly different than the 007t1 and would it be worthwhile, as far as enough sonic difference, to consider a 717 if I have a KGSS?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

hey guys,

 I really did not want to clip off the fork connections at the end of the wires to hook up the amp. they are really on there solid. take a look at what I've done. is this stupid? am I loosing signal by doing it this way? should I suck it up and go bare wire? 

 it works this way, but if I'm loosing signal strength, I'll clip them. throw me some advice.


----------



## smuh

Pulled the trigger on a Stax Classic System II last week and I am eargerly awaiting them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Next on the list is a (new) USB Dac... 

 Just needed to share this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not sure if the SR-303 and SRM-313 qualify as high end.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys,

 I really did not want to clip off the fork connections at the end of the wires to hook up the amp. they are really on there solid. take a look at what I've done. is this stupid? am I loosing signal by doing it this way? should I suck it up and go bare wire? 

 it works this way, but if I'm loosing signal strength, I'll clip them. throw me some advice._

 

That is probably fine for the Stax, but what kind of speakers are you connecting to the energizer? I guess even that is moot point since we're not talking about huge monobock amps and ginormous speakers sucking 100v of power output.

 I'd still clip them off an install banana plugs, assuming your speaker terminals handle banana plugs, but that's just me. Or, clip them and use bare wire since all you are doing is having a piece of metal between the cable and the terminals and I don't see how that is gonna make things better than a direct connection.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is probably fine for the Stax, but what kind of speakers are you connecting to the energizer? I guess even that is moot point since we're not talking about huge monobock amps and ginormous speakers sucking 100v of power output.

 I'd still clip them off an install banana plugs, assuming your speaker terminals handle banana plugs, but that's just me. Or, clip them and use bare wire since all you are doing is having a piece of metal between the cable and the terminals and I don't see how that is gonna make things better than a direct connection._

 

thanks HA. I am running the stax out of the "A" speakers, and the actual speakers out of the "B" terminals, so the speakers are unaffected by my "setup".. But I think your right. the more I think of this, the more it seems I'm compromising the signal for what is essentially an esthetic reason. I'm going downstairs to strip wires right now.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the 717 significantly different than the 007t1 and would it be worthwhile, as far as enough sonic difference, to consider a 717 if I have a KGSS?_

 

Search this thread. I reviewed the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS. On the O2mk1 the 717 came in first followed by the 007t, KGSS and 727II. I love the 007t with the Lambda series and ESP-950. I sold the KGSS and 727II.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

is there an area in the forums where the differences between stax amps is discussed specifically?


----------



## Sherwood

Yes there is, but it's 600 pages long. Above this level, there is no primer. Only search and personal opinion (and Spritzer).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there an area in the forums where the differences between stax amps is discussed specifically?_

 

You're probably in the correct thread already.
 Just browse (or search) through the 8868 posts...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

lol, thanks guys. I figured that was the answer I would get, but it was worth a shot. I have actually taken it upon myself to read the entire post. I'm on page 488 last time I stopped.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

what is a good price for the srm-1/mk-2? I also understand that there are different versions of the amp. (silver face, black face) is one preferred over the other.


----------



## spritzer

Late serial (5000+) C-model SRM-1 Mk2 P.P. is the best I've heard but the difference isn't earth shattering compared to an early A-model or any other normal Mk2. The basic circuit always remained the same but the P.P. model had better components and the resistors were upgraded on the later C-models in general.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Late serial (5000+) C-model SRM-1 Mk2 P.P. is the best I've heard but the difference isn't earth shattering compared to an early A-model or any other normal Mk2. The basic circuit always remained the same but the P.P. model had better components and the resistors were upgraded on the later C-models in general._

 

thanks spritzer. how does one identify the c model visually, and what is a fair price for it?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Headphone Addict,

 I just came across the post when you had just gotten your srm-1/mk-2. cant wait to see how the drama unfolds.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks spritzer. how does one identify the c model visually, and what is a fair price for it?_

 

There is a sticker on the back with the serial number, C-xxxx or something like that. Fair price is tough to say since things have changed dramatically in the last few weeks but around 300$ for a normal Mk2 would be an ok deal and expect to pay a bit more for the late C-models.


----------



## Victor Chew

Spritzer, my hats off to you for your SRM 1 Mk 2 Pro knowledge.


----------



## spritzer

One tends to pick up a few things after owning 10+ units.


----------



## Victor Chew

Can any one help with some knowledge of a good electrostatic amp and headphones/speakerphones combo to buy for about US$600 to US$650 pls?

 Its not for me, its for a friend of mine who might want to go the stax road.


----------



## ericj

so, who won the $315 sigma + srd-6 at that auction site?


----------



## Sherwood

Worth noting, Keith, the Srm1-MK2 PP has two pro bias outputs, and you have a normal bias lambda, so be careful.


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, who won the $315 sigma + srd-6 at that auction site?_

 

thats quite a deal; IF they were working


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Worth noting, Keith, the Srm1-MK2 PP has two pro bias outputs, and you have a normal bias lambda, so be careful._

 

thanks sherwood. that was to be my next clarification. so of the two remaining units, I assume then the "B" version is the preferred? newer parts and such.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thats quite a deal; IF they were working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yeah, the seller had listed them as an "SR-E". I'm guessing he was never in a college fraternity. 

 iirc it was one of those "working last i heard" descriptions. 

 I bid, but not nearly enough. A great deal, but not really in the budget for me anyway.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks sherwood. that was to be my next clarification. so of the two remaining units, I assume then the "B" version is the preferred? newer parts and such._

 

"C" versions were also Pro units with normal and pro outputs. Look for a SRM-1mk2 Pro with a serial number that begins with "C".


----------



## Sherwood

I've got a "B" version sitting here a my listening station, and I can tell you that it sounds awful sweet with the Lambdas. I will also mention, however, that the $400 you'd invest in one can be better spent elsewhere if your source isn't quite up to par. I heard a noticeable but not astronomical difference upgrading from a good integrated amp into an SRD-6SB. I think you'll find the same true for you. Until you get to the Signature level of pro-bias lambdas (or, say, the Koss ESP-950) you don't find much that's worth the pro-bias output on the SRM-1 MK2. That's my personal opinion, of course, and you may find your opinions differ, but for me and my normal bias lambdas the cost of the SRM1-MK2 can be better spent elsewhere (unless you need the pro-bias output).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I have caught myself already looking to upgrade from my sb energizer to an amp. I know my amp is good, but I really dont know how good, because I dont have much to compare it to. I have given myself a reality check because I know I need to upgrade my cd player. That will be the next major undertaking. I think I only considered the srm1-mk2 because I saw one on ebay on the cheap this week. still a bunch of time left though, so I'm sure it will pop out of my league. I must be patient.. I must be patient.. repeat mantra....


----------



## Akabeth

Ok... I've got my O2mk1/srm-717 setup running for about 45-50 minutes now and I'm listening to my 2nd album as I'm typing. 


 So here's my 'super-early' first impression, based on my current understanding.

 1) As expected, the O2 has a 'laid-back' and 'relaxed' sound to it from this particular Stax amplifier
 2) Not 'that' dark sounding at all --> a 'brighter' HD650-ish sound
 3) Even though it's no Edition 9, the dynamics is 'pretty good'! I'm pleased and quite surprised. I'm sure a beefy tube amp will transform this into a beast.
 4) There's a noticeable treble roll-off. However I know this is partially due to how I've gotten used to my 3 dynamic headphones --> they all have pronounced and sparkly highs
 5) Midrange. WOW! I guess this is one of the best attribute of the O2 I can sense as of yet.
 6) Presentation. Alright, I'm not sure how to put this to words but there's something completely 'different' about the music presentation; nothing I've experienced on the other 3 headphones I have on hand. It's not the mid-sized sound stage, it's more of the instrument 'placement'. Maybe 'precise' is the best word for it. The sound of the base guitars, cymbals, or vocals from the pianist is 'there'. For comparison's sake it's not like the Jade driven by Ray's amp (Chinucifi) where there's a really noticeable instrument 'separation' (not placement) where I can pin-point where things are going on inside my head-stage or the openness and 'blending effect' of the HE90. I guess it's somewhere in the middle of both. Again, all I can say it's a sort of presentation I'm not familiar with.

 With that said, for me, the O2mk1 is a very very comfortable headphone. I like the soft ear pads and the comfy head band (not the arcing metal band lol). I also like how the ear pad mechanism can rotate like that; it's pretty cool. I can see the O2 being a good companion for LooooOOOng listening sessions, like the SA5000. I think with my current setup, the O2 is clearly the best all-around headphone: which is one of the reasons why I bought it in the first place, instead of the L3000. I don't think it'll outlast the R10 in classical genre/vocal based tunes, nor the Ed9 with rock genre, nor the SA5000's speed and 'rendering' capabilities in gaming.

 Clearly, like the Jade and HE90, I need to spend a lot more time listening to understand it's attribute. It's a fine headphone and I'm not disappointed by it. I'm happy it's by my side come Christmas time and New Year


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_6) Presentation. Alright, I'm not sure how to put this to words but there's something completely 'different' about the music presentation; nothing I've experienced on the other 3 headphones I have on hand. It's not the mid-sized sound stage, it's more of the instrument 'placement'. Maybe 'precise' is the best word for it. The sound of the base guitars, cymbals, or vocals from the pianist is 'there'. For comparison's sake it's not like the Jade driven by Ray's amp (Chinucifi) where there's a really noticeable instrument 'separation' (not placement) where I can pin-point where things are going on inside my head-stage or the openness and 'blending effect' of the HE90. I guess it's somewhere in the middle of both. Again, all I can say it's a sort of presentation I'm not familiar with._

 

This is IMO the real selling point of the SR-007 and why you'll either love them or the stretched out He90 (which the Jade is said to be similar). The SR-007 can resolve depth cues that the He90 couldn't dream about while never throwing it in your face. If the soundstage is tiny on the recording then it is tiny though with remarkable depth. If the recording was mastered with the a huge sound in mind then they will deliver. This all boils down to whether you like this or not and I for one can't stand the blur or fog like sound of the He90. The SR-Omega is a crossover headphone, providing the larger soundstage while also having much of the precision.

 Btw. The 717 is no slouch but they are simply transformed on a BH with much more bass attack and control.


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is IMO the real selling point of the SR-007 and why you'll either love them or the stretched out He90 (which the Jade is said to be similar). The SR-007 can resolve depth cues that the He90 couldn't dream about while never throwing it in your face. If the soundstage is tiny on the recording then it is tiny though with remarkable depth. If the recording was mastered with the a huge sound in mind then they will deliver. This all boils down to whether you like this or not and I for one can't stand the blur or fog like sound of the He90. The SR-Omega is a crossover headphone, providing the larger soundstage while also having much of the precision._

 

Ahh... I see 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also from your words, I think I'm not mistaken to put the SR-Ω on my wish list.

  Quote:


 Btw. The 717 is no slouch but they are simply transformed on a BH with *much more bass attack and control*. 
 

Aww, you're not helping my wallet there :X Although I must say the thought of having one at a later date is tempting.


----------



## catscratch

Nice impressions! I agree with most things you said. Like you said, the O2 doesn't sound dark in a properly matched system.

 I wouldn't use "roll-off" to describe the O2's treble since it's fully extended. However, there is no treble emphasis at all, and if you're used to any kind of treble emphasis in other headphones, then the O2's treble will sound quiet and restrained.

 This partially makes the O2 shine at high volumes - the FR is flat, and your ear doesn't really perceive sound as flat until you start getting into really high decibel levels. A lot of headphone manufacturers tip up the treble and bass in order to make the sound appear flatter at lower volume levels, but I guess back in the day that kind of tampering wasn't ideologically acceptable at Stax, and they kept the FR as flat as possible.

 Now, if only they stuck to that idea instead of voicing their current lineup the way they do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This isn't to say that the O2 isn't good at low volumes, because it has an uncanny ability to keep the music open, dynamic, and coherent at volumes well below what most headphones are capable of. But, it sure does beg to crank.


----------



## mhamam

To all,
 What is the difference between the lambda and the sr404 or the equivalent current model?


----------



## mhamam

To all,
 What is the difference between the lambda and the sr404 or the equivalent current model?


----------



## Sherwood

The SR-404 is a lamdba. Lambda just denotes that style of driver and enclosure.

 There are a bunch of different Lambdas. SR-Lambda in Normal and Pro bias, Lambda Signature, Lambda Nova Classic and Signature, Sr-202, 303, 404, and the 4070 are all Lambda designs. I'm sure I'm missing a few there, too. The 404 is probably the brightest of all the above, though I haven't personally heard the 4070 or the SR-303 to compare.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also from your words, I think I'm not mistaken to put the SR-Ω on my wish list._

 

If you come across one at a good price it is certainly worth it. It's an Omega but slightly different and some may prefer the more "round" sound.


----------



## XXII

Can someone tell me how much a SRM-3 in decent condition should cost me?


----------



## edstrelow

Boy its rough on Ebay. I was trying to get a Gamma pro, not for its own sake, but so I could use the drivers to make an SRXIII Pro. I had it until the last 10 seconds when 2 guys raised the bids $75.00 Canadian higher than I was prepared to go ending up at C$255.00.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Boy its rough on Ebay. I was trying to get a Gamma pro, not for its own sake, but so I could use the drivers to make an SRXIII Pro. I had it until the last 10 seconds when 2 guys raised the bids $75.00 Canadian higher than I was prepared to go ending up at C$255.00._

 

Mine costed me $350, so that price looks fine to me...


----------



## AudioCats

C$255 is a very low price, that is only $200!!.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_C$255 is a very low price, that is only $200!!._

 

Sure but I onlly wanted it for drivers. I have a desire to try the SRXIII pro. Otherwise, I do not see myself paying prices comparable to new Lambdas for such an old and undistinguished design.


----------



## padam

STAX SR-E ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES / SRD-6 ADAPTOR - eBay (item 260317760460 end time Nov-24-08 18:53:51 PST)
 Is this a good price? Might have been good for a Sigma/404 project.


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX SR-E ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES / SRD-6 ADAPTOR - eBay (item 260317760460 end time Nov-24-08 18:53:51 PST)
 Is this a good price? Might have been good for a Sigma/404 project._

 

ericj mentioned them earlier, but yes, its a good price; they usually go for around $500


----------



## ZephyrSapphire

Question regarding the SRM-727 and SRM-323.
 I noticed they have two pairs of RCA jacks behind them in parallel.
 My question is...
 Can both of these two pairs be used as input jacks individually? As in when Pair A's input is turned off, can pair B be used as input jacks as well?


----------



## Akabeth

I don't think both are 'input jacks' as in: you can switch between both to listen to one or the other input with an earspeaker. I'm looking at the SRM-717 manual right now.

 The left rca pair is the input jack (from cdp, ipod, etc) -> at least it's the one I'm using right now.

 The right pair -> loops out to "PRE Amp/PRE-Main Amp. or recording" -> Loudspeaker. I'm actually wondering what it really does, since I have never used this feature.


----------



## The Monkey

Can you hear anything if you feed a source into the loop out pair?


----------



## ZephyrSapphire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think both are 'input jacks' as in: *you can switch between both to listen to one or the other input with an earspeaker*. I'm looking at the SRM-717 manual right now.

 The left rca pair is the input jack (from cdp, ipod, etc) -> at least it's the one I'm using right now.

 The right pair -> loops out to "PRE Amp/PRE-Main Amp. or recording" -> Loudspeaker. I'm actually wondering what it really does, since I have never used this feature._

 


 So you can use either ones as inputs?


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ZephyrSapphire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you can use either ones as inputs?_

 

Sorta yes, but only the left input goes to the actual earspeaker plugged in. The right one, while also an input, does not go to the earspeaker signal -> it loops out to a speaker somehow (after another pre-amp in chain?? or something I'm not familiar with).

 The phrase you highlighted:

 I don't think both are 'input jacks' as in: you can switch between both to listen to one or the other input with an earspeaker. 

 You know when you have certain amplifiers which accepts multiple inputs? You can plug in as many inputs (rca, xlr, or even digital inputs if there's an internal dac) as you want... but the amp includes an input selector so you can switch to whichever input you want -> my particular SRM-717 amp doesn't have that input selector. So there's only 'one' input for the earspeaker, which is the left rca pair.

 ^To The Monkey, I may try that later.


----------



## ZephyrSapphire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorta yes, but only the left input goes to the actual earspeaker plugged in. The right one, while also an input, does not go to the earspeaker signal -> it loops out to a speaker somehow (after another pre-amp in chain?? or something I'm not familiar with).

 The phrase you highlighted:

 I don't think both are 'input jacks' as in: you can switch between both to listen to one or the other input with an earspeaker. 

 You know when you have certain amplifiers which accepts multiple inputs? You can plug in as many inputs (rca, xlr, or even digital inputs if there's an internal dac) as you want... but the amp includes an input selector so you can switch to whichever input you want -> my particular SRM-717 amp doesn't have that input selector. So there's only 'one' input for the earspeaker, which is the left rca pair.

 ^To The Monkey, I may try that later._

 

I see.. HMMM. I need two RCA inputs for an amp but I don't want tubes. Grr.. Thanks for the info. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Expect me to join the Stax team within the next year.


----------



## Akabeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ZephyrSapphire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see.. HMMM. I need two RCA inputs for an amp but I don't want tubes. Grr.. Thanks for the info. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Expect me to join the Stax team within the next year. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I may be wrong with this but anyways, with my current understanding:

 You can always hunt down an SRD-7 Pro unit so you can hook up your current pre-amp or whatever pre-amp capable headphone amplifier unit you want to buy to the Pro unit to power your pro bias ear speakers. Also (I think) there's also the SRD-7 unit (multiple versions) for the normal bias e-stats. But of course, having a stand-alone amp is probably better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 With that said I don't know any SS e-stat amplifier with selectable rca inputs. Maybe you can get Justin to make you a customized KGSS with multiple rca/xlr inputs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 or Mikhail to make you the first solid-state ES amplifier with multiple rca/xlr inputs as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -------

 So I think the SRD unit in essence, is basically an 'adapter'. One person who owns this sort of circuitry is krmathis, you should go and exchange some pm's with him.


----------



## spritzer

It would be easy enough to convert the parallel connected RCA's over to two separate inputs simply by rewiring them and adding a DPDT switch.


----------



## Victor Chew

There are 2 inputs, one for RCA and the other for XLR, can you use 2 CD players at the same time? In otherwords can you use the XLR for a balanced CD player and the other RCA input for an ipod or another source by just switching between XLR and RCA through the back? There is a warning in the stax manual saying that the switch must be correct otherwise the RCA can burn - but I am not sure.


----------



## spritzer

The switch on the back only grounds the - part of the input when set to RCA since the amp is only receiving + input. This is in no way, shaper or form an input switcher and does the same thing as installing a jumper pin in the XLR socket which you have to do on many balanced amps when using the RCA inputs.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure but I onlly wanted it for drivers. I have a desire to try the SRXIII pro. Otherwise, I do not see myself paying prices comparable to new Lambdas for such an old and undistinguished design._

 

I only wanted mine for the drivers and headband, while Smeggy has them to turn into woody smegma pros.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Boy its rough on Ebay. I was trying to get a Gamma pro, not for its own sake, but so I could use the drivers to make an SRXIII Pro. I had it until the last 10 seconds when 2 guys raised the bids $75.00 Canadian higher than I was prepared to go ending up at C$255.00._

 

Yeah, eBay can be a race to the end some times.
 They basically were prepared to pay more than you. Better luck next time though...


----------



## spacemanspliff

How do you take the pads off the Lambdas without killing the pads? I can see there is glue holding them on. I want to do what Spritzer did and remove the foam on the backside. I just don't want to have to replace the pads completely yet. Is it safe to remove them without a new replacement pad?

 btw, with the Oritek and my little pop pulse/srd-7? killer mid range and speed. damn nice. need a better power cord and supply still but yeah. good enough.


----------



## milkpowder

With the help with a fine flat-head screwdriver, slower pry away at the glue so that it lifts off the headphones themselves and stays on the pads. It'll take a lot of time and patience, but if done correctly you will be able to stick them back on afterwards. Don't rush it because you'll end up tearing the pads.

 To remove the foam inside the headphones themselves, you shouldn't have to completely remove the pads since the four screws that keep the drivers/stator housing in the 'cage' are near the corners.

 Hope this helps.


----------



## powertoold

Does removing all the foam behind the Lambda Pro drivers also help with the sound? 

 Thanks!


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does removing all the foam behind the Lambda Pro drivers also help with the sound? _

 

Removing the foam makes them sound a little more open at the expense of increased treble harshness - personally I prefer to leave foam in, but I'm not a particularly big fan of Lambda Pro in either case.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you take the pads off the Lambdas without killing the pads? I can see there is glue holding them on. I want to do what Spritzer did and remove the foam on the backside. I just don't want to have to replace the pads completely yet. Is it safe to remove them without a new replacement pad?_

 

You don't need to fully remove the pads to get access to the inner parts.
 Simply use a screwdriver, knife or similar to carefully lift up the four corners of the pads. Just enough to get access to the screws in there.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does removing all the foam behind the Lambda Pro drivers also help with the sound? 

 Thanks!_

 

Imo, it does.
 I have had two SR-Lambda Pro pairs, one stock and one where I removed the damping (it were rotten and needed to be cleaned out). The non-damped one had a more open sound, which I preferred.

 Be careful when removing the damping, and you should be able to put it back in if its not of your liking.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Did the removal. Sound is much more in line with what I wanted. Damn foam was killing the sound imo.


----------



## krmathis

spacemanspliff. Great to hear!
 Both that the removal went smooth (I guess) and that you enjoy the non-damped SR-Lambda.


----------



## spacemanspliff

lol thanks but

 They are Normal Lambdas. I don't care for the Pro.

 There is more treble energy now. More detail, better mids, bass. It just sounds better overall. That foam was really muffling it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol thanks but

 They are Normal Lambdas. I don't care for the Pro._

 

Ok, sorry! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Great to hear that you enjoy the non-damped *SR-Lambda*.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Oh yeah lol. Never an issue with you krmathis. Just clarifying.

 Listening to the Talking Heads 2 Disc The Name of the band is the Talking Heads. Lossless on Win-amp at 44.1 into the ORitek Zhalou. 

 Nice, clear, smooth sound. Very good presentation. I can listen for hours on end with no problems at all. Extraordinary levels of detail and precise sound placement. Excellent separation. 

 Oritek + Lambda Normal Stax and a good little amp = yes please.

 My next step up will be to improve the amplification. I guess I need to go to a Stax amp for that.


----------



## brat

A question to the more expirienced O2 users: for about one month I notice some ticking sounds. I hear this like a narrow hump in the upper mids/lower highs that make some sounds in the records to bulge out and become very noticeable. So I wonder of it's a source problem or an amp/headphone problem. Any opinions?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question to the more expirienced O2 users: for about one month I notice some ticking sounds. I hear this like a narrow hump in the upper mids/lower highs that make some sounds in the records to bulge out and become very noticeable. So I wonder of it's a source problem or an amp/headphone problem. Any opinions?_

 

That's the midrange "honk" I've been talking about.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the midrange "honk" I've been talking about._

 

Thats an SR-007MK2 and SR-007A problem only, right?
 Cause I can't say I have ever heard such a "honk" using my SR-007BL..


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the midrange "honk" I've been talking about._

 

I'd not determine it as a _midrange_ problem but more of the highs. It appereared after more than 400hrs of burn-in and became audible in very short period. I just began to notice some sounds within a certain (high) frequency area, often some ticking sounds...
 If it's _the midrange _problem you mentioned before and every O2mk2 suffers from it that's a huge fault of the stax' engineers


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd not determine it as a midrange problem but more of the highs. It appereared after more than 400hrs of burn-in and became audible in very short period. I just began to notice some sounds within a certain (high) frequency area, often some ticking sounds...
 If it's the midrange problem you mentioned before and every O2mk2 suffers from it that's a huge fault of the stax' engineers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

To my ears it is a midrange problem that is exacerbated by the more forward nature of the phones. It presents as a "shout" on top of male vocals and other instruments on a similar frequency band, where they are singled out and have added harshness compared to the rest of the mix. It's a subtle effect but very noticeable when comparing the phones to the Mk1 and SR-Ω.


----------



## powertoold

Would someone please comment on the technical differences between a Lambda Pro and an O2Mk1 in terms of the sound? For example, so the imaging of the O2Mk1 is better, but do you have an analogy of how much better it is? It'd be great if you could point out other technical differences too!


----------



## Akabeth

Can anyone here tell me if any/all Stax headphone amps have temperature sensors...? or at least something to prevent the amp from getting damaged due to overheating?

 I think I found something (delightfully) consistent on my SRM-717 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would someone please comment on the technical differences between a Lambda Pro and an O2Mk1 in terms of the sound? For example, so the imaging of the O2Mk1 is better, but do you have an analogy of how much better it is? It'd be great if you could point out other technical differences too!_

 

I heard Lambda Pro/SRM1-mk2 in the Chicago meet which I enjoyed a lot. I may expand on this later but as far as first impressions go is that the Lambda Pro was noticeably brighter compared to the o2 mk1 (which I'm using right now). Sparkly highs, good-tight bass. It was great on strings (guitar). I didn't notice anything special about the imaging, coherency, sound staging, etc... So take what you will from that ^ :X

 I was just enjoying myself because it was my first-ever Stax'en and listening to an e-stat headphone! I didn't bother to do anything but enjoy the music


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd not determine it as a midrange problem but more of the highs. It appereared after more than 400hrs of burn-in and became audible in very short period. I just began to notice some sounds within a certain (high) frequency area, often some ticking sounds...
 If it's the midrange problem you mentioned before and every O2mk2 suffers from it that's a huge fault of the stax' engineers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Your description is not very clear, but perhaps what you are talking about are ticking noises one gets when some detritus/dust gets inside the driver? Is what you hearing really on the recording (try another headphones)? Also try unplugging the SR-007 - if ticking persists, it's definitely a dust issue.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would someone please comment on the technical differences between a Lambda Pro and an O2Mk1 in terms of the sound? For example, so the imaging of the O2Mk1 is better, but do you have an analogy of how much better it is? It'd be great if you could point out other technical differences too!_

 

In my experience, the most similar headphones to to the SR-Lambda Pro are the SR-202. 

 SR-Lambda Pro do not really have resolving deep bass, are thin in the midrange, are often sibilant, have a slightly metallic coloration and hard to describe treble etch/harshness. The soundstage is wide but without depth.

 SR-007 is a considerable improvement in all those areas, in particular the sense of depth and precise instrument placement that no other headphones I've heard can match. However there are quite a few people who think it can sound dark and 'unexciting' - this is to some extent helped by better amplification. 

 If you must get a Lambda type phone, I would definitely recommend a Lambda Signature - it sounds more open and resolving than the Pro, with less (subjective) weirdness in the highs.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone here tell me if any/all Stax headphone amps have temperature sensors...? or at least something to prevent the amp from getting damaged due to overheating?_

 

Certainly not, but they would not overheat by themselves as long as there is sufficient air circulation (e.g. do not put a stack of papers on top of the SRM-717). You could also easily add a temperature sensor yourself


----------



## macm75

Pardon the interruption but hoping someone can explain how the bias works on a SRD-7/SB adapter. Just does not make sense to me - no AC in to rectify, the only input is from an amplifier output. Thank You.


----------



## pdennis

Hey folks,

 Hope you've all been keeping -- I've been scarce because I broke my main rig during the summer, and since I haven't had time to deal with it, being on Head-Fi would just have made me very sad!

 I'm hoping, though, that one of you folks will have an idea of what to do. Here's the sitch: I plugged my SRM-212A into a power source with the wrong polarity. I'm pretty sure I realized it right away and unplugged it without turning it on, but the unit still seems to be damaged (will not turn on).
 My questions, of course, are: is it obvious what would have been damaged, such that I could go in and replace such-and-such a part to fix it? If not, will Stax work on it for me? I'm afraid that they might refuse because it's a Japanese market model, or that they'd charge so much that I might as well replace it.

 OK, thanks for your help! Give me good news please.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

what are the audible effects of under powering a pair of sr-lambdas with an srd-7sb? here's why:
 when I finally got my setup, I was finding that the upper midrange was very predominant, almost irritating on some albums. I also thought that the bass was a little weak. This is when I started asking about amps for the lambdas. I have since discovered that my amp was set for 6 ohm and under speakers. I have no idea why it was set that way. anyway, I put it up to the 8-12 setting that actually matches my speakers, and when I fired up the lambdas again, I found that the bass was improved, and the overall balance seemed better. I did however think that the high end seemed a bit tamed, or veiled. my first thought is, now that the cans should have enough power, is that the inferiority of my source is being revealed. any thoughts? please share.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would someone please comment on the technical differences between a Lambda Pro and an O2Mk1 in terms of the sound? For example, so the imaging of the O2Mk1 is better, but do you have an analogy of how much better it is? It'd be great if you could point out other technical differences too!_

 

The Lambda Pro is to my ears the worst Lambda since it does nothing well, the top end is harsh, midrange is recessed and the bass is flabby and loose, so comparisons to the SR-007 aren't exactly fair. There is also a variable with the L-Pro's, is the mineral wool (yellow sheet at the back of the drivers) still in place as that alters the sound quite a bit? The SR-007 does everything better and in a more controlled manner though it never flaunts its abilities to try and impress the listener. They suck you in over time like the true greats such as Quad ESL. The my favorite part is soundstage on the SR-007 as it is not terribly wide but can portray depth of field (which no other headphone besides the SR-Omega can do properly) with pin point accuracy. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone here tell me if any/all Stax headphone amps have temperature sensors...? or at least something to prevent the amp from getting damaged due to overheating?_

 

There is a thermal fuse on the transformer that breaks if the amp is overloaded but that should never happen. The 717 is Class A so it gets rather hot but not as much as the 007t. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pardon the interruption but hoping someone can explain how the bias works on a SRD-7/SB adapter. Just does not make sense to me - no AC in to rectify, the only input is from an amplifier output. Thank You._

 

Well, the audio signal is high voltage AC after going through the transformers (1:25-30 ratio) so that's where the bias supply is drawn from. It is then fed through a zener gate to keep the input voltage a constant and a voltage multiplier. The caps are big enough to smooth out most slow points in the music so it works quite well. On the Mk2 SB units then there was another transformer mounted to the back of the chassis to supply a higher voltage due to the need for 580v bias. The transformer taps into the right channel if I remember correctly and the return lead is connected into the left. Easy really....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, the audio signal is high voltage AC after going through the transformers (1:25-30 ratio) so that's where the bias supply is drawn from. It is then fed through a zener gate to keep the input voltage a constant and a voltage multiplier. The caps are big enough to smooth out most slow points in the music so it works quite well. On the Mk2 SB units then there was another transformer mounted to the back of the chassis to supply a higher voltage due to the need for 580v bias. The transformer taps into the right channel if I remember correctly and the return lead is connected into the left. Easy really...._

 

Thanks for the info Birgir.
 I have been quite unsure how they have accomplished this as well. Now I learned something new..


----------



## edstrelow

I got my hands on a reasonably priced Stax SRM1Mk2 amp, from Europe, oddly enough. It is a B series with one regular and one pro socket. So far I am very impressed with what it does with the Sigma pro and Sigma/404: a wider and better defined soundstage and cleaner midrange and better dynamics. 

 The low bias plug didn't seem to help my SRXIII, but on the high bias ther SRM1 was definitely better than my SRM3's. There may have been a tad more bass on the SRM3 but that was probably not enough of a factor to make one prefer it to the older amp. EDIT: Actually with more time, break-in and warm-up I am also favorably impressed by the low bias outlet with the SRX3. It sounds somewhat better than my SRA12S preamp/headphone amp.

 Odd that the newer Stax amps are not always an improvement over the earlier ones.

 At any rate I should do some systematic listening, comparing amps for a change.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

so no insight into my earlier post?? sure would like some.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so no insight into my earlier post?? sure would like some._

 

I'm not really certain what impedance the Stax adapter+SR-Lambda presents to an amplifier, but if you notice a positive change when using the 8 ohm taps then by all means, do so.

 I can't imagine that your amp is underpowering them, let alone underpowering them only on the 6 ohm setting. Does the amp drive your speakers to acceptable levels?

 My guess is what you're experiencing is not a lack of power, but rather the inherent sound of your system as it is. That's a bit of a cop-out answer, I know, but it's likely the right one.


----------



## donunus

Finally, my first stax arrives... just got to pick the sucker up later today


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally, my first stax arrives... just got to pick the sucker up later today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Give them a little burn-in before jumping in and complaining they are too bright and thin vs the HD600.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not really certain what impedance the Stax adapter+SR-Lambda presents to an amplifier, but if you notice a positive change when using the 8 ohm taps then by all means, do so.

 I can't imagine that your amp is underpowering them, let alone underpowering them only on the 6 ohm setting. Does the amp drive your speakers to acceptable levels?

 My guess is what you're experiencing is not a lack of power, but rather the inherent sound of your system as it is. That's a bit of a cop-out answer, I know, but it's likely the right one._

 

maybe I was just expecting a change, and heard one. not sure, but I swear it sounded fuller. although I did replace a crappy interconnect recently. I wonder if I'm actually hearing that change. that would be odd. but the old interconnect really sucked. hmm, I'll have to try my cans on someone elses setup somewhere. what would you recommend as the first upgrade? I assume source. then amp.

 I believe I'm going to stick with the self biasing energizer. at least till I figure out its potential. what amp do you guys recommend when configuring things this way. I recall someone mentioning a travagans red once?


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Give them a little burn-in before jumping in and complaining they are too bright and thin vs the HD600. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

about how long of a burn in to start enjoying? anyways, my mhdt havana dac is arriving soon also. I hope the we396 tube i'm putting in it makes it a great match for the stax


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about how long of a burn in to start enjoying? anyways, my mhdt havana dac is arriving soon also. I hope the we396 tube i'm putting in it makes it a great match for the stax_

 

Until the sound stops changing. I'll guess till everything has about 200 hours.


----------



## Duggeh

Absolutely any worthwhile reason at all for this guess or is it just plucked from the void?

 Just stick them on your head and put on your favourite CD. Enjoy.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Absolutely any worthwhile reason at all for this guess or is it just plucked from the void?

 Just stick them on your head and put on your favourite CD. Enjoy._

 

Plucked from the void, said so in my own post, that's what a guess is, sometimes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Donunus has been known to... er... I mean might jump the gun with impressions, and I don't want him posting bad about the Stax till he knows the amp and phones are burned in, that's all. Right Don?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Actually, my Stax O2 needed about 200 hours to settle down, and I've had many SS amps that needed a couple hundred hours to settle down as well - a few needing 300-600 hours.


----------



## spacemanspliff

That's what I like about my Lambdas. Almost a 20 year burn in period. They sound pretty settled in lol.


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Plucked from the void, said so in my own post, that's what a guess is, sometimes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Donunus has been known to... er... I mean might jump the gun with impressions, and I don't want him posting bad about the Stax till he knows the amp and phones are burned in, that's all. Right Don? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll try to keep quiet if they suuuck! I know how burn in changes cans over time. I will post positives right away though if they come up even before burn in


----------



## macm75

After over a year wait I finally own a pair of SR-Lambda's. I have the SR-303's and always had some issues with their analytical nature - hoping the normal bias Lambda's ease my ears. Anyway, I went to plug them into my amp (diy Andrea Ciuffoli design) and forgot my connector is 5 pin.
 So I'm in deep need for a WPI 78-S6S. Anyone have a spare connector they can sell me? I just have nothing to purchase from Allied and they would kill me in handling and shipping charges.
 (sorry for not posting on the for-sale section but obviously this is the place to ask 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Sherwood

Worth pointing out that you are trying to plug a normal bias headphone into a pro bias jack, so far as I can tell.

 It won't just sound atrocious, it will also destroy the headphones. You don't need a plug, you need a normal bias amp.

 If I've read your situation wrong, forgive me.


----------



## macm75

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Worth pointing out that you are trying to plug a normal bias headphone into a pro bias jack, so far as I can tell.

 It won't just sound atrocious, it will also destroy the headphones. You don't need a plug, you need a normal bias amp.

 If I've read your situation wrong, forgive me._

 

Funny I don't think this is possible. 6 pin plug in a 5 pin connector? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no worries, wouldn't do such a thing even if I could - that's why I'm hoping there are spare 6 pin connectors (WPI 78-S6S) out there. Relative to bias - same amp - just a single resistor change in a voltage divider.


----------



## bralk

My bookmark for The Unofficial Stax Site (Page?) doesn´t work anymore and googling hasn´t been successful.

 Anybody with the url for the English version ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Funny I don't think this is possible. 6 pin plug in a 5 pin connector? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no worries, wouldn't do such a thing even if I could - that's why I'm hoping there are spare 6 pin connectors (WPI 78-S6S) out there. Relative to bias - same amp - just a single resistor change in a voltage divider._

 

Good, my apologies for underestimating you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is possible, alas, with a universal extension cord (6 pin female, 5 pin male) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't know the Cuffoli design very well, but that makes perfect sense to me.


----------



## macm75

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is possible, alas, with a universal extension cord (6 pin female, 5 pin male) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Yeah, nice idea, at least while my amp is still in breadboard phase. Instead of having a normal and pro output I could build an "adapter" with the use of a 86-71-6S plug (remove the center pin) and a 78-S6S connector (and, of course I just have to remember to change the bias).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally, my first stax arrives... just got to pick the sucker up later today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice! I expect you to keep us posted! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My bookmark for The Unofficial Stax Site (Page?) doesn´t work anymore and googling hasn´t been successful._

 

This one? STAX Unofficial Page


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This one? STAX Unofficial Page_

 

yes - that one !

 Mange tak
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 venlig hilsen

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

^ Ingen årsak. Gleden er på min side.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Or, "You're most welcome!" in a more common language..


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdennis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey folks,

 Hope you've all been keeping -- I've been scarce because I broke my main rig during the summer, and since I haven't had time to deal with it, being on Head-Fi would just have made me very sad!

 I'm hoping, though, that one of you folks will have an idea of what to do. Here's the sitch: I plugged my SRM-212A into a power source with the wrong polarity. I'm pretty sure I realized it right away and unplugged it without turning it on, but the unit still seems to be damaged (will not turn on).
 My questions, of course, are: is it obvious what would have been damaged, such that I could go in and replace such-and-such a part to fix it? If not, will Stax work on it for me? I'm afraid that they might refuse because it's a Japanese market model, or that they'd charge so much that I might as well replace it.

 OK, thanks for your help! Give me good news please._

 


 there is a fuse inside, it might be blown.


----------



## spacemanspliff

krmathis

 Do you enjoy the K1000 as much as Stax? I had one a few years back. Excellent sounding with the SQ-84 amp. I was just thinking that would be the other headphone to have around lol.

 I just got a Gutwire power cord for my Oritek Zhalou. Nice. More natural sounding now. Flow is better.


----------



## Akabeth

My rather late replies :X

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a thermal fuse on the transformer that breaks if the amp is overloaded but that should never happen. The 717 is Class A so it gets rather hot but not as much as the 007t._

 

I was just curious because once I had accidentally left my drafted paper on top of the amp's ventilation before I had to go to the bathroom for a few minutes and it got pretty hot, but that's all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The amp actually runs pretty cool. In my room I can actually barely feel heat going off the ventilation. But then again I have often my windows slightly open in the Ann Arbor winter (ambient temperature usually is around 65* F)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice impressions! I agree with most things you said. Like you said, the O2 doesn't sound dark in a properly matched system.

 I wouldn't use "roll-off" to describe the O2's treble since it's fully extended. However, there is no treble emphasis at all, and if you're used to any kind of treble emphasis in other headphones, then the O2's treble will sound quiet and restrained.

 This partially makes the O2 shine at high volumes - the FR is flat, and your ear doesn't really perceive sound as flat until you start getting into really high decibel levels. A lot of headphone manufacturers tip up the treble and bass in order to make the sound appear flatter at lower volume levels, but I guess back in the day that kind of tampering wasn't ideologically acceptable at Stax, and they kept the FR as flat as possible.

 Now, if only they stuck to that idea instead of voicing their current lineup the way they do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This isn't to say that the O2 isn't good at low volumes, because it has an uncanny ability to keep the music open, dynamic, and coherent at volumes well below what most headphones are capable of. But, it sure does beg to crank._

 

^ I see what you mean now that I have some understanding of the O2. 

 I do listen at low'ish levels though... I usually have the SRM-717 @ level 2 -2.5 (in the volume knob)... level 3.5 or maybe 4 is as high as I'll ever go when I listen to rock songs.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis

 Do you enjoy the K1000 as much as Stax? I had one a few years back. Excellent sounding with the SQ-84 amp. I was just thinking that would be the other headphone to have around lol._

 

Hard to say!
 I enjoy the K1000 a lot, I admit that. They may not be a such an overall complete headphone as the SR-007BL, but they certainly perform very well. To each their own, and for some reason I tend to use the K1000. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A benefit of the K1000 are that I have amplifiers that are able to drive them properly, while for the SR-007BL my amplification come a bit short.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *macm75* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After over a year wait I finally own a pair of SR-Lambda's. I have the SR-303's and always had some issues with their analytical nature - hoping the normal bias Lambda's ease my ears. Anyway, I went to plug them into my amp (diy Andrea Ciuffoli design) and forgot my connector is 5 pin.
 So I'm in deep need for a WPI 78-S6S. Anyone have a spare connector they can sell me? I just have nothing to purchase from Allied and they would kill me in handling and shipping charges.
 (sorry for not posting on the for-sale section but obviously this is the place to ask 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

I have a small pile, and i could be persuaded to part with one. 

 I can't guarantee i'd mail it out right away, though. between 10 hour shifts, 45 minute commute, and the possibility of weekend work, well, the money is great, but the post office is 20 minutes from me when it's open, and i leave for work before it opens and get home long after it's closed. 

 Which also means that i'm not easily motivated by small quantities of money right now. Maybe you can offer me some other DIY parts in trade or something - not that I'm sure of what i need, aside from some good, small, 47uf low-voltage caps for a signal coupling application in a tight space.


----------



## mark_h

anyone use BLACK SABLE tubes?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ I see what you mean now that I have some understanding of the O2. 

 I do listen at low'ish levels though... I usually have the SRM-717 @ level 2 -2.5 (in the volume knob)... level 3.5 or maybe 4 is as high as I'll ever go when I listen to rock songs._

 

Volumw knob positions are irrelevant except in a relative sense since you have to take into account the output strength of your source and anything else in your signal path. However, rock does tend to be recorded rather loudly, and I have albums that are downright painful at 3.5, whereas I have classical albums that are comfortable but not excessive at 5. This doesn't even take into account albums that are mastered too hotly, since I don't listen to them anyway.

 The 717 is slightly lacking in bass, which makes you want to crank things up to compensate. That, unfortunately, pushes the sound into dangerous volume levels very quickly. Still, I've compensated psychoacoustically somewhat except for bass-dependent genres, but there I don't use the O2 anyway. It's a shame since the headphones themselves are capable of some serious bass, but getting it out of them will require a pretty penny.


----------



## donunus

AAAhhhh finally, the stax in on my ears! 

 Sorry Larry but I have to comment before even 20 minutes of play time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All I can say is wow! Ive been wasting too much time mucking around with dynamic cans for nothing. Everything Ive been looking for is Here, Now... Among all dynamics Ive heard, I guess these sound closest to the senn hd600... but ooooohhhh the bass on the stax is amazing! How come no one ever says that. People keep on talking about the thin stax sound. Well screw that... it is better than any of the dynamics ive had or heard. Bass comes out of nowhere and goes deep and there is no bloat or lag that i can hear so far in my first few minutes of listening. Vocals pop out of a black background and instruments are so delicate sounding without the grainy edge present in dynamics (even the so called smooth hd600s are grainy and etched in comparison). These remind me of listening to great sounding high end speakers more than any headphone ive heard. 

 More than any of the traits above that I love is the musicality of this thing. I am enjoying anything I play on it. The hd600s for example have a thinness to the upper bass that seems to make the whole sound lack coherence for me. It was my most major gripe with the hd600s but I still kept them because all other cans Ive heard in the price range were inferior IMO. The stax 202 doesnt have a problem with coherence... the music just seems to flow through it. 

 Oh, and these impressions were done using a basic pioneer dvd player. I'll post impressions when everything is burned in and when I use it with the mhdt havana nos dac.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AAAhhhh finally, the stax in on my ears! 

 Sorry Larry but I have to comment before even 20 minutes of play time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All I can say is wow! Ive been wasting too much time mucking around with dynamic cans for nothing. Everything Ive been looking for is Here, Now... Among all dynamics Ive heard, I guess these sound closest to the senn hd600... but ooooohhhh the bass on the stax is amazing! How come no one ever says that. People keep on talking about the thin stax sound. Well screw that... it is better than any of the dynamics ive had or heard. Bass comes out of nowhere and goes deep and there is no bloat or lag that i can hear so far in my first few minutes of listening. Vocals pop out of a black background and instruments are so delicate sounding without the grainy edge present in dynamics (even the so called smooth hd600s are grainy and etched in comparison). These remind me of listening to great sounding high end speakers more than any headphone ive heard. 

 More than any of the traits above that I love is the musicality of this thing. I am enjoying anything I play on it. The hd600s for example have a thinness to the upper bass that seems to make the whole sound lack coherence for me. It was my most major gripe with the hd600s but I still kept them because all other cans Ive heard in the price range were inferior IMO. The stax 202 doesnt have a problem with coherence... the music just seems to flow through it. 

 Oh, and these impressions were done using a basic pioneer dvd player. I'll post impressions when everything is burned in and when I use it with the mhdt havana nos dac._

 

My crystal ball says we've created a monster.


----------



## J-Pak

Needs pictures of you wearing the Lambda :dotu:


----------



## AudioCats

I know you are already thinking about getting a pair of O2.

 A slippery slope you are on. Very much so.


----------



## donunus

lol

 Larry,
 Since you already know my patterns of doing impressions when i love or hate something, you will definitely know in a month or two what things turn me off the most about these (just like the other cans in the past). In other words, the **** will hit the fan in 2 months so to speak 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If this is still musical without anything analytically wrong to my ears over time, I think Ive found a keeper


----------



## Deadneddz

OMG, and this is the lambda 202? What, someone give the man a pair of O2s and see what he says....


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Needs pictures of you wearing the Lambda :dotu:_

 

here you go hehehe


----------



## AudioCats

O2, O2, O2, O2, O2

 O2, O2, O2, O2, O2

 O2, O2, O2, O2, O2

 O2, O2, O2, O2, O2

 O2, O2, O2, O2, O2

 (gotta burn that into your mind)


----------



## donunus

Wheres the brightness I keep on hearing about. Its not there... These are smoooth... I love it! The Stax mafia has a new member on board by the name of Don Vitto


----------



## Sherwood

There is no Stax mafia.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_here you go hehehe




_

 

Wow, you make the Lambdas look small. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, if you are smart you'll quit head-fi now instead of $4000 later with O2 and Woo GES...


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_here you go hehehe




_

 

Awesome, few are so brave 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Don't be in a hurry to get an O2. I had SR-404 in 2006, and it took me two years of meandering to get the O2 in 2008, and now there is no where to go :-o


----------



## Ricey20

Still the Jade and HE90


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ricey20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still the Jade and HE90 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have borrowed the HE 1.2b (reported to sound the same as the Jade) and found the SR-007 mk1 superior. The cost of an HE90 puts me about 30% of the way towards massive electrostat panels


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, you make the Lambdas look small. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, if you are smart you'll quit head-fi now instead of $4000 later with O2 and Woo GES..._

 

I will quit headfi soon... err.. maybe I might browse a little 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 These cans look awesome by the way


----------



## donunus

Oh, question... Is it normal for some buzz from the drivers when pushing the cans or moving them around the ears?


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, question... Is it normal for some buzz from the drivers when pushing the cans or moving them around the ears?_

 

Yes, it seems to be commonly referred to as electrostatic 'squeak' or 'fart'.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, question... Is it normal for some buzz from the drivers when pushing the cans or moving them around the ears?_

 

Yes - search for "stax fart"


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AAAhhhh finally, the stax in on my ears! 

 Sorry Larry but I have to comment before even 20 minutes of play time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All I can say is wow! Ive been wasting too much time mucking around with dynamic cans for nothing. Everything Ive been looking for is Here, Now... Among all dynamics Ive heard, I guess these sound closest to the senn hd600... but ooooohhhh the bass on the stax is amazing! How come no one ever says that. People keep on talking about the thin stax sound. Well screw that... it is better than any of the dynamics ive had or heard. Bass comes out of nowhere and goes deep and there is no bloat or lag that i can hear so far in my first few minutes of listening. Vocals pop out of a black background and instruments are so delicate sounding without the grainy edge present in dynamics (even the so called smooth hd600s are grainy and etched in comparison). These remind me of listening to great sounding high end speakers more than any headphone ive heard. 

 More than any of the traits above that I love is the musicality of this thing. I am enjoying anything I play on it. The hd600s for example have a thinness to the upper bass that seems to make the whole sound lack coherence for me. It was my most major gripe with the hd600s but I still kept them because all other cans Ive heard in the price range were inferior IMO. The stax 202 doesnt have a problem with coherence... the music just seems to flow through it. 

 Oh, and these impressions were done using a basic pioneer dvd player. I'll post impressions when everything is burned in and when I use it with the mhdt havana nos dac.[/IMG]_

 

Hah. Well dynamics don't have to be grainy. The HD600 is grainy when it's not driven all that well. That grain goes away from a proper system. The HD650, believe it or not, has better detail than the SR-404 to my ears, and, when properly driven, is so much better all-around that it's not even funny. Though when it's poorly driven, it is also much worse. It's a weird little critter to be perfectly honest, and I have no idea why, seeing how hard it is to system-match properly, it is as popular as it is.

 But, of course, then there is the O2. Which the HD650, good as it is, will never touch. 

_You will have the O2 fairly soon._

 If you like what you hear now, it gets quite a bit better from here, trust me. The source swap will be the single biggest improvement. Electrostatics, as you've found out, are very, very transparent. That transparency makes them highly source and recording-dependent. As they say, garbage in = garbage out.

 You very much hit the nail on the head with that whole coherence thing. On a good system, instruments just sound like instruments and not like a system reproducing said instruments. They pop out of thin air and feel life-like, rather than you getting the impression that there are pulsating drivers creating the illusion of a soundstage. That trait starts here, and only keeps getting more and more evident as you move up the food chain.

 It is present in good dynamics too, mind you, but not to the same degree.

 Don't be in a rush to get everything, though. With the O2, you're not fooling around. It's either perfect, or there is no point. Which will mean $. Although, if you're smart, you can get everything far cheaper than you'd think.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You very much hit the nail on the head with that whole coherence thing. On a good system, instruments just sound like instruments and not like a system reproducing said instruments. They pop out of thin air and feel life-like, rather than you getting the impression that there are pulsating drivers creating the illusion of a soundstage. That trait starts here, and only keeps getting more and more evident as you move up the food chain._

 

Yes, when I compared the Lambda and Lambda Signature to my APS re-cabled ESP950, HE60 and O2 on the GES, the Lambda started to sound more like pulsating driver next to the ear as the others presented the illusion of instruments out past the drivers more convincingly. To me my HE60 and O2 offer the best illusion in which the drivers just vanish totally.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, when I compared the Lambda and Lambda Signature to my APS re-cabled ESP950, HE60 and O2 on the GES, the Lambda started to sound more like pulsating driver next to the ear as the others presented the illusion of instruments out past the drivers more convincingly. To me my HE60 and O2 offer the best illusion in which the drivers just vanish totally._

 

The O2 is remarkable at it, though I rather wish you'd hear the Mk1 on a good amp. The levels of transparency it can attain are... frightening.

 Actually, it was hearing the HE90/HEV90/Meitner Labs DAC rig that set me on the path to destruction, so to speak. Over the last 3 years, close to 4 now, I've been trying subconsciously to replicate the same sound. I've tried to make do with lesser rigs, and the only ones I liked were ones that had similar characteristics.

 The O2 though put a stop to that. It doesn't sound like the HE90, but it's intoxicating enough in its own way that it snapped me out of the subconscious desire to replicate the HE90 in every rig I try to put together. I'm happy with the O2 being the O2.

 Right now I'm just listening. There will be tweaking, of course, and I need to hook this up to my PC... well, once I have a functional PC. But the bulk of the search is over... for now


----------



## Deadneddz

Oh god...the wait is killing me, my new O2s lay lifeless in their case as i will need to wait about 6 to 7 months for an electrostatic amp. 

 It will be extremely hard to wait....

 But my UE-11s will keep me contained as i've not heard any dynamic full size beat it except the R-10, (k1k and L3000 in some aspects but not all)

 Of course after listening to the O2 and He90, those two blew everthing ive ever heard out of the atmosphere...ever

 Although 100k worth of audio equipment probably did help them shine


----------



## Deadneddz

Hey catscratch, if you like the O2 better than the He90 on an extremely high end setup, your not the only one.

 The O2 MKI is the best ive ever heard.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey catscratch, if you like the O2 better than the He90 on an extremely high end setup, your not the only one.

 The O2 MKI is the best ive ever heard._

 

It's been far too long since I heard the HE90 rig to actually judge which one I like better. I'll have to compare them side by side. 

 This O2 rig though does have a similar effect in that it lets me get immersed completely in the music without really wanting to change anything about the sound. Of course, it's nowhere near extremely high end. It's only entry-level high-end at best. But it's good enough.

 Well, sometimes I wish for more bass, but it's mostly dependent on the recording.


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hah. Well dynamics don't have to be grainy. The HD600 is grainy when it's not driven all that well_

 

But the thing about it is... the 2050 system costs as much as my gilmore lite with dps amp for my hd600 and still the stax sounds better to my ears. When you say proper, you are talking about a system far above my 2050s price

 They are a steal!


----------



## glac1er

took you long enough donunus... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Few months ago I wasn't able to get your used AD2000 and blindly went straight for the SRS2050. 

 Still, don't throw away your HD600 just yet. You'll get over your honeymoon and come back wanting the HD600. I just heard a recabled HD600 with SAA Equinox and it makes a perfect complement to the Stax setup.

 For $500ish, it's hard to get a new setup as formidable as the these entry level Staxes. Those dynamics need so much more money to get them at the Stax level.


----------



## donunus

It was a good thing you got the staxes. the ad2000 is nothing special IMO. My hd600s are equinox recabled and i do like them a lot but they seem to make me analyze the music a lot unlike these staxes. I was rocking out to some david lee roth earlier hehehe


----------



## donunus

Oh, and the 252 is not powerful enough for me to crank up very dynamic or bassy music. I need the 600s for that


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_he ad2000 is nothing special IMO._

 

What was the system? Have you tried the AD2000 with an amp such as a Zana Deux and a good source?

 I count the HE90, HE60, SR-Omega, O2Mk1, O2Mk2, L3000, W5000, Qualia and R10 among my favorites, and I also think the AD2000 is a great-sounding headphone.

 The AD2000 reminds me of the Airbow SR-SC1.


----------



## jigster

Well, I think I've come to the end of the road.... no more, I say... NO MORE.
 I have come to the end of upgrading..... please, someone stop me.... oh yes, I forgot I have to.. I'm broke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... at least I'm happy?

 My journey began at the end of 2006 with a Senn PXC200 and went...
 ... Beyer 990
 ... Darkvoice 336i (Sold)
 ... K1K
 ... Pass Aleph 30 (Sold)
 ... Airtight ATM-300
 ... Lambda Nova Sig (Sold) & SRD-7/MKII (Sold)
 ... Lambda Pro & SRM-1/MK2
 ... Lambda Pro #2
 ... O2 MK1
 ... 4070
 ... BH


----------



## Elephas

O2Mk1 and 4070 with a BH? I haven't heard a BH, but yes, I would agree that you're in the home stretch section of the end of the road.

 There's always a possible source upgrade, though.

 And have you heard the HE90 with Aristaeus? That is a great-sounding combo. Maybe an HE90 would be a nice complement to the O2Mk1 with your BH? It's possible you might even prefer the HE90 over the O2Mk1.

 Hey, I know this is the Stax thread and _they_ are watching, but I'm fast. In and out. OK, going into hiding now.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_O2Mk1 and 4070 with a BH? I haven't heard a BH, but yes, I would agree that you're in the home stretch section of the end of the road.

 There's always a possible source upgrade, though.

 And have you heard the HE90 with Aristaeus? That is a great-sounding combo. Maybe an HE90 would be a nice complement to the O2Mk1 with your BH? It's possible you might even prefer the HE90 over the O2Mk1.

 Hey, I know this is the Stax thread and they are watching, but I'm fast. In and out. OK, going into hiding now._

 

Ok, I think you missed out the part that I asked people to "stop me", you are no good for my wallet... go away... just kiddin.

 No haven't had the opportunity to listen to the HE90 nor the Aristaeus. They aren't readily available here in Singapore and I really don't think anyone here has got the Aristaeus... except when Anderson swings into Singapore's waters. Think he's got one on his ship but I really doubt he can get me on board. Hmm, think he may have the HE90 too.

 oh I forgot, I have the HE60 too... ouch, just realised how much I've blown.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey catscratch, if you like the O2 better than the He90 on an extremely high end setup, your not the only one.

 The O2 MKI is the best ive ever heard._

 

*Raises hand* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for a temporary amp, find a used SRM-717 as it very good indeed. You can even bypass the built in volume control and use it as a power amp, fed by a pre amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And have you heard the HE90 with Aristaeus? That is a great-sounding combo. Maybe an HE90 would be a nice complement to the O2Mk1 with your BH? It's possible you might even prefer the HE90 over the O2Mk1.

 Hey, I know this is the Stax thread and they are watching, but I'm fast. In and out. OK, going into hiding now._

 

It's my old amp and it brutally reveals all the He90's faults and warts. The BH is DC coupled so there are no caps to hide behind. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 He might like the HE90 though despite their flaws.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What was the system? Have you tried the AD2000 with an amp such as a Zana Deux and a good source?

 I count the HE90, HE60, SR-Omega, O2Mk1, O2Mk2, L3000, W5000, Qualia and R10 among my favorites, and I also think the AD2000 is a great-sounding headphone.

*The AD2000 reminds me of the Airbow SR-SC1*._

 

Except without the bass.


----------



## donunus

I did some listening of the 2050 system and the hd600. The thing I can say about the stax is that it doesn't sound like its trying to do anything special. Its just playing music effortlessly and if I only had this and nothing else I would be absolutely happy. The hd600 however, shows more acrobatics with demo stuff that impresses me but when it comes to just playing anything out of my library, it is more picky than the stax. The stax is revealing yet doesnt force you in analytical mode. The senns although having a smooth, creamy sound tends to be more analytical than the stax IMO. I would say these cans are more on par with each other than comparing the hd600s to other dynamics Ive heard though. The hd600s are great and might impress more when played loud on a powerful amp during meets but theres something about the stax from my 1 day of having it that seems like it does my music right. Only time will tell now. I can see where people will want to go to the O2 to get the hd600 acrobatics and the stax effortlessness and transparency but to me that is the beauty of this basic stax, It doesnt make me crave for the technicalities because it makes me enjoy my music. I know I am still in the honeymoon period with these so take my comments with a grain of salt. I just wanted to share my stax experience for those that haven't heard them yet.

 Edit: quick swapping these two cans reveals the mids of the stax to be a little more colored and prominent compared to the hd600 but less than my former ad2000. Its more like the grado sr60 without the harshness in mids balance. Midbass of the hd600 is a little more than the stax which gives it the impression of tightness for some music. Upper bass is more balanced with the overall sound on the stax making the music more defined in its rhythm but it is not nearly as pronounced in the upper bass as the ultra tight sounding ad2000s (from memory) which stuck out like a sore thumb with those cans. The treble of the senns are more forward than the stax but the upper mids are more laid back on the senns... Those are my findings so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Also remember that the stax has almost no burn in yet. 

 Anyone with experience with the 202 specifically? Do they change dramatically with burn in?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did some listening of the 2050 system and the hd600. The thing I can say about the stax is that it doesn't sound like its trying to do anything special. Its just playing music effortlessly and if I only had this and nothing else I would be absolutely happy. The hd600 however, shows more acrobatics with demo stuff that impresses me but when it comes to just playing anything out of my library, it is more picky than the stax. The stax is revealing yet doesnt force you in analytical mode. The senns although having a smooth, creamy sound tends to be more analytical than the stax IMO. I would say these cans are more on par with each other than comparing the hd600s to other dynamics Ive heard though. The hd600s are great and might impress more when played loud on a powerful amp during meets but theres something about the stax from my 1 day of having it that seems like it does my music right. Only time will tell now. I can see where people will want to go to the O2 to get the hd600 acrobatics and the stax effortlessness and transparency but to me that is the beauty of this basic stax, It doesnt make me crave for the technicalities because it makes me enjoy my music. I know I am still in the honeymoon period with these so take my comments with a grain of salt. I just wanted to share my stax experience for those that haven't heard them yet.

 Edit: quick swapping these two cans reveals the mids of the stax to be a little more colored and prominent compared to the hd600 but less than my former ad2000. Its more like the grado sr60 without the harshness in mids balance. Midbass of the hd600 is a little more than the stax which gives it the impression of tightness for some music. Upper bass is more balanced with the overall sound on the stax making the music more defined in its rhythm but it is not nearly as pronounced in the upper bass as the ultra tight sounding ad2000s (from memory) which stuck out like a sore thumb with those cans. The treble of the senns are more forward than the stax but the upper mids are more laid back on the senns... Those are my findings so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also remember that the stax has almost no burn in yet. 

 Anyone with experience with the 202 specifically? Do they change dramatically with burn in?_

 

If it is any consolation, I enjoy my balanced HD600 as much as I do my Stax.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it is any consolation, I enjoy my balanced HD600 as much as I do my Stax._

 

As in your Stax O2 MK2?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As in your Stax O2 MK2? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, I enjoy them almost as much; although the O2 Mk2 would be technically superior the HD600 balanced with a good amp and source are very enjoyable. And, I can get more volume and pounding bass out of the HD600 if I want it - suitable more for some types of music like Infected Mushroom. The HD600 properly amped can portray a similar cohesive image as the Stax, with a slight smoothing out of the texture but not killing the transparency.


----------



## edstrelow

Any idea if the phones in this ad are Mk1 or Mk2?

STAX SRM-717 DRIVER UNIT EARSPEAKERS HEADPHONES - eBay (item 300278377666 end time Dec-10-08 16:40:20 PST)

 If this set sells under 2K it could be a deal. I doubt that I would want to bid without checking it out in person. It's about a 2 hr drive away from me.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any idea if the phones in this ad are Mk1 or Mk2?

STAX SRM-717 DRIVER UNIT EARSPEAKERS HEADPHONES - eBay (item 300278377666 end time Dec-10-08 16:40:20 PST)

 If this set sells under 2K it could be a deal. I doubt that I would want to bid without checking it out in person. It's about a 2 hr drive away from me._

 

Based on the colours I would say that they have to be MKIs

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## AudioCats

whether a MK1 or MK2, the final price will probably go higher than $2k....


----------



## Ricey20

looks like MK1. MK1 is champagne colored while Mk2 is just silver or something.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any idea if the phones in this ad are Mk1 or Mk2?

STAX SRM-717 DRIVER UNIT EARSPEAKERS HEADPHONES - eBay (item 300278377666 end time Dec-10-08 16:40:20 PST)

 If this set sells under 2K it could be a deal. I doubt that I would want to bid without checking it out in person. It's about a 2 hr drive away from me._

 

Posting this has, of course, killed the small chance of it selling under 2k on the bay. Perhaps they'll cut you a deal in person, though.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Posting this has, of course, killed the small chance of it selling under 2k on the bay. Perhaps they'll cut you a deal in person, though._

 

lol, this is the truth! Now it'll go for at least 2400 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is an unspoken rule on Head-Fi to speak of auctions only after they're over, unless a member is selling it


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 MKI is the best ive ever heard._

 

x2

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any idea if the phones in this ad are Mk1 or Mk2?

STAX SRM-717 DRIVER UNIT EARSPEAKERS HEADPHONES - eBay (item 300278377666 end time Dec-10-08 16:40:20 PST)_

 

SR-007 it is, since it has brown leather and cable.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Could they fit Lambda normal drivers in a Sigma enclosure? Would I want too? The 404/Sigma would be cool too. So would some new model Stax. Something interesting.

 I really need to bring this combo to a meet. Fat mid range. Really wails.


----------



## bjarnetv

the normal bias sigma use normal bias lambda drivers


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could they fit Lambda normal drivers in a Sigma enclosure?_

 

They sure could, and they actually did.
 * SR-Sigma and SR-Lambda share the same drivers.
 * SR-Sigma Pro and SR-Lambda Signature share the same drivers.


----------



## spritzer

This is correct though the Sigma drivers are a bit different as they are mounted backwards compared to the Lambda variant so the connections are on the other side. It's just a matter of fixing the protection mesh to the other side of the driver during assembly.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Cool. The only other headphone I really want to try is the Sigma. Maybe I can find a normal Sigma soon. You send them to Stax? for modding?


----------



## spritzer

You can send the Sigmas to Yama's (US distributor) to have them install 404 drivers and cable but it costs a fortune. As of last week it cost about 600$ to do the conversion which is too much IMO.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can send the Sigmas to Yama's (US distributor) to have them install 404 drivers and cable but it costs a fortune. As of last week it cost about 600$ to do the conversion which is too much IMO._

 

bah.

 Ok, I'll just look for normal Sigmas then.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Normal bias sigmas are my favorite rig for electronic music and Pink Floyd/Porcupine Tree...with the Dared MP5 Telefunken ECC82 pre amp tubes and the Pico. Keep it stock unless you get a broken one needing repair and a low price.

 I do not listen in public tho and my wife and kids just hide a smile when they walk into my listening area. The O2/007 are much more viewer friendly.


----------



## John Buchanan

IMHO, the stock Sigma is too rolled off at both ends of the frequency spectrum. The Sigma/404 hybrid is a much better phone.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have been borrowing plaidplatypus's Sigmas for about 3 weeks now, and they do big out of head soundstage fantastically. But, IMHO, the stock Sigma is too rolled off at both ends of the frequency spectrum. So, detail freaks and instrument placement freaks need not apply.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question to the more expirienced O2 users: for about one month I notice some ticking sounds. I hear this like a narrow hump in the upper mids/lower highs that make some sounds in the records to bulge out and become very noticeable. So I wonder of it's a source problem or an amp/headphone problem. Any opinions?_

 

That's what I've written some days ago.
 Now the _phenomenon_ went deeper. I suspect it may be a burn-in issue but who knows...
 I hear a conciderable increase of the highs of my O2mk2. For the past few weeks somehow the highs _opened_ and become more shrill and noticeable, some squeaky and ticking sounds protrude above the whole sound "picture". I mean sounds like the sound of a harpsichord or the movement of the fingers over the quitar's neck, or some "parasite" sounds which are found in all acoustic records. Before this transformation the sound of the O2mk2 was smoother and more laid back without anytning annoying and distracting my listening. Now it's more k701-like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 In fact now the amount of the highs of my Omega is almost like of my k701.
 I've tried different sources and have found that it's not a source issue. It's just the headphones or the amp.
 I repeat - I don't know if it's a problem or a burn-in effect. But I don't like it.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMHO, the stock Sigma is too rolled off at both ends of the frequency spectrum. The Sigma/404 hybrid is a much better phone._

 

Yeah but I do not have the $$$$ for it yet. Might as well snatch a Sigma for now, if I can.

 Ultimately, I would like to do the hybrid.


----------



## John Buchanan

...and as Tako has mentioned, they aren't particularly viewer friendly. They are more so than the Jecklin Floats, but only just.


----------



## Deadneddz

Could someone kindly give me instructions on how to properly fit new pads on my O2 MKI? Or possibly show me a link to some proper instructions?

 I have no clue on how to do it, and stock pads are about 7 years old, Definately need to be replaced.

 Thanks


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool. The only other headphone I really want to try is the Sigma. Maybe I can find a normal Sigma soon. You send them to Stax? for modding?_

 

I had a set of broken low bias Sigmas converted to 404 standard for about US$500.00. Given that my old Sigmas were unplayable that seemed like a fair price to have the work done properly with a basic warranty that it would all work properly.

 Given the almost $2K price for an 007 I don't consider this price at all unreasonable. That's about the price of a stock 404 from Japan and less than the US price. I have seen a 30 year old basic low bias Sigmas sell for $400.00 recently, and Sigma pros which are not as good as the Sigma/404 mod selling for twice that. I guess you could save some bucks by doing the work yourself, but I personally wouldn't want to try.

 The Sigma/404 is a far more interesting phone than the 404. It has no vices, is listenable over a wide range of types of music and amps and creates a sense of forward projection which no other phone can match except possibly the KGK1000. While it lacks some of detail and bass of the 007, the 007 doesn't have the Sigma's virtues either, although my 007A with the Spritzer spring mod ,has a similar frequency response to the Sigma/404, except in the deep bass, where the 007a is better. 

 I prefer the 007A to the Sigma/pro but not by very much and not all the time. Sometimes I just prefer the more natural effect of the Sigma sound and the Sigma/404 is the best of the Sigmas. Also the 007A needs a big amp such as the 717. The Sigma/pro sounds very good with an SRM1Mk2 and even a SRM3. 

 As a final point the Sigma/404 is very comfortable, in spite of its bulk, because there is nothing pressing on your ears.


----------



## spritzer

If the Sigma was not functional then it would be a no brainer to have them do the work but the 90 warranty is a bit short for my liking. Now if you DIY this and it all goes well then you end up with two good headphones (assuming that the Sigma drivers are working before the mod is commenced) instead of just one and at a lower cost. This isn't an easy thing to pull off by any means though.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I've written some days ago.
 Now the phenomenon went deeper. I suspect it may be a burn-in issue but who knows...
 I hear a conciderable increase of the highs of my O2mk2. For the past few weeks somehow the highs opened and become more shrill and noticeable, some squeaky and ticking sounds protrude above the whole sound "picture". I mean sounds like the sound of a harpsichord or the movement of the fingers over the quitar's neck, or some "parasite" sounds which are found in all acoustic records. Before this transformation the sound of the O2mk2 was smoother and more laid back without anytning annoying and distracting my listening. Now it's more k701-like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In fact now the amount of the highs of my Omega is almost like of my k701.
 I've tried different sources and have found that it's not a source issue. It's just the headphones or the amp.
 I repeat - I don't know if it's a problem or a burn-in effect. But I don't like it._

 

To my ears it wasn't just a lower treble emphasis but an upper midrange emphasis as well. Maybe our terminology differs and we're talking about the same thing - but I also heard some instruments simply jump out of the mix and take center stage when there was absolutely no need for them to do so. It also messed up instrument tone, though not to the same extent as the SR-404 and similar phones.

 Suffice to say, the Mk1 doesn't have these issues, though it also depends on the source. With the 840c, the highs were too forward and could become shrill. With the Opus 21 it was the other way around, and I had to roll in bright-sounding silver cables.

 The Mk2 is a very fine headphone in its own right but it sounds to me like it's trying too hard. The midbass is boosted to be more impressive and the upper mids/lower treble is boosted to be more forward and engaging. But, there's no reason for that. The Mk1 was a headphone that was at the cutting edge of detail, imaging, and overall realism. Why did someone feel a need to try to make it more impressive than it already was?

 I don't know about burn-in. With my pair, it was there all along from day 1. I didn't get that much of a change with burn-in - maybe a smidgeon more detail, bass control, and overall clarity, but the essential character never changed.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey someone answer the question about the 02 pads.

 Anyway, the sigma/404 is what I want to try next. Just going to take some time to gather it all up lol.


----------



## krmathis

Ah, reminds me that I really need to audition an SR-Sigma (Pro).


----------



## Michgelsen

Some tips about the O2 pads are in this thread, one page 3 and 4 I believe (depends on your forum settings).


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and as Tako has mentioned, they aren't particularly viewer friendly. They are more so than the Jecklin Floats, but only just. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

As a benefit, they double as an elephant costume during Halloween - just need to find a snout


----------



## tako_tsubo

John actually looks pretty cool with his...very distinguished, in only a Stax fan kind of way.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yeah I see a Sigma/404 ( can it be 303 as I have one of those ) in the future, but right now I enjoy them stock as a nice other flavor. But the jump in price to get them done is getting up there, it was marginal at $500...but when you count a good working Sigma minimally at $400, then add up to 700 when you count shipping costs...$1100, and a used 4040 begins to look good. Now that one looks very closet useful.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




And I hear heavy, man!

 If I want neutral/nad detailed I go 007 and 717. Just love all these number lingo's.


----------



## Steph T

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do dip below 1ohm and with sensitivity in the 73dB/1w range they really need a beast of an amp or a very well designed tube amp. A Quad ESL57 is less of an hassle and quite a bit cheaper._

 

I own a pair of Stax ELS-F-83s and they run beautifully on 60 watts of valve amplification. They require voltage, which valve amplifiers are ideally suited to supplying, as opposed to current, which solidstate amplifiers as suited to.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Steph T* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I own a pair of Stax ELS-F-83s and they run beautifully on 60 watts of valve amplification. They require voltage, which valve amplifiers are ideally suited to supplying, as opposed to current, which solidstate amplifiers as suited to._

 

Seems like a nice pair of Stax speakers.





 Welcome to Head-Fi!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Steph T* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I own a pair of Stax ELS-F-83s and they run beautifully on 60 watts of valve amplification. They require voltage, which valve amplifiers are ideally suited to supplying, as opposed to current, which solidstate amplifiers as suited to._

 

Like I said not all amps are created equally. The wattage rating is pretty much useless as a meaningful benchmark (at least the stock manufacturer measurements) as slew rate, PSU design, output impedance, output transformer design and how the amp design is implemented are huge contributing factors. Electrostatics are especially tricky since they present a reactive load on the amp and the wild impedance "roller coaster ride" demands a lot of current from the amp. It's a common myth that electrostatics need only voltage but a quick look at how they behave and Ohm's law shows that to be incorrect. As the impedance drops on the panels (which the stepup transformers dutifully transform back to the amp) you need current to make up for the difference or the voltage will sag. Going back to power figures, you can often see amps that amps that are rated at 100w into 8ohm but double that figure into 4 ohms which doesn't mean that the amp will output double the voltage into a 4 ohm speaker, but double the current. This is naturally simplified but the reason why Stax came up with those arc-welders like the X2 which are stable into a 1ohm load.


----------



## b17m4p

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ As the impedance drops on the panels (which the stepup transformers dutifully transform back to the amp) you need current to make up for the difference or the voltage will sag._

 






 One day I will take the time to make things like this make sense to me.


----------



## ericj

in news of the lower-end sort, I think i may have found a cheap tripath ta2024 amp board that can shoehorn into the SRD-X, hopefully to make it a little more lively sounding. 

 (Yeah, tripath amps are the low end of what should be driving stax transformers - but the existing guts of the SRD-X are lower)


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been borrowing plaidplatypus's Sigmas for about 3 weeks now, and they do big out of head soundstage fantastically. But, IMHO, the stock Sigma is too rolled off at both ends of the frequency spectrum. So, detail freaks and instrument placement freaks need not apply._

 

Larry, have you used the Sigma Pro in both your SRD-7 Pro and GES setup?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, reminds me that I really need to audition an SR-Sigma (Pro)._

 

Yes, you do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *b17m4p* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 One day I will take the time to make things like this make sense to me._

 

This is how I understand it:

 In DC (Direct Current), V = IR (Voltage equals current times resistance).
 If resistance (R) drops in a circuit then you will need more current (I) to mantain the same Voltage (V) level between two points. If the resistance in a circuit drops to half it's previous value then twice the amount of current will have to flow through the circuit to keep the voltage the same. (1.125A * 8 Ohms = 9V) and (2.25A * 4 Ohms = 9V). If your amp can only supply 1.5A of current to the 4 Ohm load then you can only get 6V difference. (1.5A * 4 Ohm = 6V)

 Does that sound right guys?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Larry, have you used the Sigma Pro in both your SRD-7 Pro and GES setup?_

 

No, only with the GES driven by the Pico as DAC. You want I should try it on the SRD-7 Pro/Nuforce?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Yes, please do. I haven't tried the Sigma Pro with a transformer yet, I'd like to know if it's a good idea.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, please do. I haven't tried the Sigma Pro with a transformer yet, I'd like to know if it's a good idea._

 

Okay, although I'm still being teased about only having a Nuforce Icon driving it (by those who don't know how good/value it is as a speaker amp).


----------



## edstrelow

An evening shot of Canyon Sin Nombre at Anza Borrego State Park, in Southern California, near the Mexican Border. I spent a couple of days camping off road there with my Stax SR001Mk2 and portable cd player. Also with wife, kids, wife's friend and her kids.

 You can just make out a person behind the vehicle, probably daughter No 1. 

 We drove in along the wash in the foreground and camped in an open space behind the vehicle. It goes back about 100 yds and then becomes a trail, with very high walls, sometimes with barely room to squeeze through. 

 I could live in a tent as long as I had the mini Stax to keep me company.


----------



## catscratch

Very nice. I've had a few trips like that and I love being out completely away from civilization. I may post some pics once I've post-processed them. I'm a lousy photographer but I still try...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_in news of the lower-end sort, I think i may have found a cheap tripath ta2024 amp board that can shoehorn into the SRD-X, hopefully to make it a little more lively sounding. 

 (Yeah, tripath amps are the low end of what should be driving stax transformers - but the existing guts of the SRD-X are lower)_

 

Sounds like a plan as the stock stuff is just cheap. I must admit though that the whole SRD-X idea was a great one. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is how I understand it:

 In DC (Direct Current), V = IR (Voltage equals current times resistance).
 If resistance (R) drops in a circuit then you will need more current (I) to mantain the same Voltage (V) level between two points. If the resistance in a circuit drops to half it's previous value then twice the amount of current will have to flow through the circuit to keep the voltage the same. (1.125A * 8 Ohms = 9V) and (2.25A * 4 Ohms = 9V). If your amp can only supply 1.5A of current to the 4 Ohm load then you can only get 6V difference. (1.5A * 4 Ohm = 6V)

 Does that sound right guys?_

 

That's the core of the matter but we are of course dealing with AC so impedance rather then resistance which varies with frequency.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

That photo looks like a flash flood waiting to happen!

 To stay on topic, I got my Audiocats modded Super Fat Cat back as an SFC++ now, which means no internal batteries as the compartment is filled with caps now. So, I have a 9 hour Li rechargable battery pack velcored to the underside. The thing has been burning in all week and it does indeed sound even better than at stage 1 where it had the AD8599 installed with upgraded internal caps and the battery bay converted to parallel 3.7v Lithium rechargables. No rolled off highs or bumped up mids like a stock SR-001 (which I also have one of) - it's just right with the mods.


----------



## gimmish

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 An evening shot of Canyon Sin Nombre at Anza Borrego State Park, in Southern California, near the Mexican Border. I spent a couple of days camping off road there with my Stax SR001Mk2 and portable cd player. Also with wife, kids, wife's friend and her kids.

 You can just make out a person behind the vehicle, probably daughter No 1. 

 We drove in along the wash in the foreground and camped in an open space behind the vehicle. It goes back about 100 yds and then becomes a trail, with very high walls, sometimes with barely room to squeeze through. 

 I could live in a tent as long as I had the mini Stax to keep me company._

 

Cool,I was very active in the hard core So. Cal 4wheeling community until I had to sell my jeep (built from the ground up like a real jeep should be). Have you ever been to Johnson Valley for rock trails like sledgehammer. Have you ever gone to the Tierra DEl Sol event at Anza?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gimmish* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool,I was very active in the hard core So. Cal 4wheeling community until I had to sell my jeep (built from the ground up like a real jeep should be). Have you ever been to Johnson Valley for rock trails like sledgehammer. Have you ever gone to the Tierra DEl Sol event at Anza?_

 

I am more into off-road camping than driving hard trails. While my Mazda MPV is a true 4 wheel drive vehicle, is not as suitable for heavy duty trails as a small jeep.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like a plan as the stock stuff is just cheap. I must admit though that the whole SRD-X idea was a great one._

 

Did i read that right? 

 I think the SRD-X is surely a reasonable concept for entry-level, if stationary convenience. Probably easier to build than the SRM-X. At least if you have a bunch of transformers anyway. 

 It could make a pretty reasonable work rig with that SR-5. 

 The tripath module itself is being ripped from a Psyclone Nodus PSP docking station - currently available online for as little as $21 shipped new. To make it fit I'll have to completely cut off the silly active EQ circuit they included to make the 3" fullrange speakers sound more betterer or something. 

 There's a similarly sized TA2024 module available from china for $24 + ship + you supply your own power supply. 

 If i get this done, I'd like to make it out to colorado again and compare it to a stock SRD-X directly, as well as some other amps. Thinking here of headphoneaddict's stash.


----------



## spritzer

The SRD-X was cheap back in the day and the original idea was to hook it into normal TRS jacks and make the whole transformer business a lot easier. So a great idea.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did i read that right? 

 I think the SRD-X is surely a reasonable concept for entry-level, if stationary convenience. Probably easier to build than the SRM-X. At least if you have a bunch of transformers anyway. 

 It could make a pretty reasonable work rig with that SR-5. 

 The tripath module itself is being ripped from a Psyclone Nodus PSP docking station - currently available online for as little as $21 shipped new. To make it fit I'll have to completely cut off the silly active EQ circuit they included to make the 3" fullrange speakers sound more betterer or something. 

 There's a similarly sized TA2024 module available from china for $24 + ship + you supply your own power supply. 

 If i get this done, I'd like to make it out to colorado again and compare it to a stock SRD-X directly, as well as some other amps. Thinking here of headphoneaddict's stash._

 


 Yeah, I've got plenty of SRD-X here.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRD-X was cheap back in the day and the original idea was to hook it into normal TRS jacks and make the whole transformer business a lot easier. So a great idea._

 

Yeah. In a large sense I'm just modernizing it. I don't expect to get perfect sound from it, but the one class-D product i have - a Philips executive type system - is nothing if not fast and detailed. It is perhaps not as pure sounding as a good class-A or even AB, but it doesn't just phone it in either. 

 And the existing SRD-X amplifier circuit certainly just phones it in. It works, but not great, while not really all that bad either.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, please do. I haven't tried the Sigma Pro with a transformer yet, I'd like to know if it's a good idea._

 

beware that the Stax box by itself is rather murky and rolled-off, both top and bottom. Not sure how much better a modded box can be (wire speaker cable directly to the transformers).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_beware that the Stax box by itself is rather murky and rolled-off, both top and bottom. Not sure how much better a modded box can be (wire speaker cable directly to the transformers)._

 

My SRD-7 pro with Nuforce Icon amp typically sounds better than my HEV70, and almost as good as an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro with more bass but slightly less air and treble extension. I don't hear it being rolled off at the bottom end but I agree the detail is less, although I wouldn't use the work "murky". I wonder if mine was modded by someone before I got it?


----------



## AudioCats

the "murky and rolled-off" conclusion was drawn upon direct comparison against the ..... what else, my JRM trans box 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Still, the JRM driven by a Kenwood KA89 is not nearly as detailed as the T1s, but somehow I have a feeling that it has more to do with the amp.

 I can only imagine how good a Lundahl box might sound


----------



## Oublie

Hi Folks,

 Well it's time to move up the food chain once more. Currently running what you see in my sig. I will be due my xmas bonus in a couple of weeks and plan to buy myself an audio upgrade. Heres the problem, I'm torn between upgrading to a better stax amp or buying a set of Omega's preferably not the mk II's. 

 Years ago when i still had faith in audio magazines it was preached to the masses that speakers come first then amp then source and finally cables. so would you guys say i would be better off using an srd7 with my nad amp and a set of omegas or should i wait and just buy a better amp for my gear?

 This leads me to another question if its a better amp i'm torn between an srm T1 / T1s or an srm 717. And finally is there a version of the 717 with a normal bias connection?

 appreciate you advice on this as i can't afford both upgrades and i'd like the one that will give me the better improvement.

 Thanks.


----------



## Sherwood

There is no 717 Box with normal bias outputs, unfortunately. Though a better amp would benefit all your cans, I think you'll get a more audible improvement out of the o2. Audio magazines were right: transducers make the biggest difference


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

If you can find an SRD-7 Pro or Mk2 at a fair price (under $300) I would get some Omega 2 Mk1 now, and while enjoying them with the NAD I would save my pennies for a high-end amp. Or look for an SR-717 instead of SRD-7 if the budget is tighter than a high end amp allows but big enough to spend $1000 on a used amp after the $1400 for used headphones.

 I can enjoy the O2 Mk2 after earpad spring mod with either SRD-7 Pro and a $250 12 watt amp, or with my Woo GES Maxed which is more detailed and transparent but not any more powerful for the $2490 it costs after mods and upgrades (extra inputs and outputs, upgraded caps).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Folks,

 Well it's time to move up the food chain once more. Currently running what you see in my sig. I will be due my xmas bonus in a couple of weeks and plan to buy myself an audio upgrade. Heres the problem, I'm torn between upgrading to a better stax amp or buying a set of Omega's preferably not the mk II's. 

 Years ago when i still had faith in audio magazines it was preached to the masses that speakers come first then amp then source and finally cables. so would you guys say i would be better off using an srd7 with my nad amp and a set of omegas or should i wait and just buy a better amp for my gear?

 This leads me to another question if its a better amp i'm torn between an srm T1 / T1s or an srm 717. And finally is there a version of the 717 with a normal bias connection?

 appreciate you advice on this as i can't afford both upgrades and i'd like the one that will give me the better improvement.

 Thanks._

 

All the 717's are High Bias only. As much as I like my SRM-T1 the 717 (and 007t) are much better. If you need a amp for High and Low bias get the 007t. The 717 is better driving the O2 but the 007t is great on all the rest including the ESP-950. It also does a OK job on the O2.


----------



## webbie64

Agree with the responses though I'm less a fan of a tube amp and the O2s (I definitely think the difference between 007t and 717 significant enough with O2 Mk1s).

 Like HeadphoneAddict, my order would be O2 Mk1s, followed by a better solid state amp driving an SRD7-Pro or Mk2, followed later by a dedicated headphone amp such as the 717.

 Hope you find what you're looking for.


----------



## Oublie

I have a couple of srd7 mkII SB's one of which i was planning on tweaking and the other in daily use with my amp do you think this would be up to the job of driving the o2's? I suppose I could always sell my srd7's and some other gear to help fund a 717 plus i've just moved back to using my normal bias lambda's more than my pro's. I'm a bit of a hoarder and I hate the idea of selling any of it.

 Atm there still seem to be two camps one for the o2 and one for the 717 but if you had to choose which would it be?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a couple of srd7 mkII SB's one of which i was planning on tweaking and the other in daily use with my amp do you think this would be up to the job of driving the o2's? I suppose I could always sell my srd7's and some other gear to help fund a 717 plus i've just moved back to using my normal bias lambda's more than my pro's. I'm a bit of a hoarder and I hate the idea of selling any of it.

 Atm there still seem to be two camps one for the o2 and one for the 717 but if you had to choose which would it be?_

 

If you have heard the O2 and like them, I would go that route. Your SRD-7 mk2 with any decent amp should be fine. Make sure to get a mk1 not a mk2. I have used the O2 with a SRD-7 Pro with good results.


----------



## Oublie

cheers audiod,

 I think the hunt will be on from christmas for a mark one omega.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Just got the Tripp Lite IS250 for my Oritek dac. My Lambdas are smoooother. The edge is pretty much gone. Very natural flow to voices in particular. Still getting used to it.

PROVANTAGE: Tripp Lite IS250 Isolator 250 2-Outlet 6ft Cord 120V 250W Isolation Transformer


----------



## AudioCats

so who is the lucky winner of _that_ O2Mk1/717 combo?


----------



## spacemanspliff

What's the best amp for my Lambdas? I have decided that is my next purchase. Or Sigmas, dead or alive. ]

 Are there any mods for the lambda?


----------



## AudioCats

Spritzer has a "no fiber-glass" mod, I tried it and it boosted the bass a lot, but then it was too.... boomy. So I restored it back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 SRM-1/MK2 seems to be quite cheap now-a-days, it should drive the Lambda well.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer has a "no fiber-glass" mod, I tried it and it boosted the bass a lot, but then it was too.... boomy. So I restored it back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 SRM-1/MK2 seems to be quite cheap now-a-days, it should drive the Lambda well._

 

Yeah I did that one already. I prefer the sound personally but with my setup it is fine. My Dac is pretty mid centric though. Not a ton of bass slam but tuneful detail by the bucketful.


----------



## Kraps

I was advised not to leave the O2 "playing in free air" (i.e. when they are not on a head or tapped tightly by something) and to always turn the volume down to zero before both putting them on and taking them off. What is the rationale behind that?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was advised not to leave the O2 "playing in free air" (i.e. when they are not on a head or tapped tightly by something) and to always turn the volume down to zero before both putting them on and taking them off. What is the rationale behind that?_

 

None what so ever. It's an old myth that the mylar gets stretched in some way by allowing them to play off the head but it is utter BS.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

is there a link where spritzers no fiber glass mod is explained. I'm looking for the how and the why. yes I searched.


----------



## Kraps

Thanks, Spritzer!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there a link where spritzers no fiber glass mod is explained. I'm looking for the how and the why. yes I searched._

 

Not a mod really but you just have to open up the phones and remove the yellow glass wool that lines the back of the earcup. To open it up you have to lift up all four corners of the earpads and remove the screws underneath. Then the drivers and cable can be separated from the housing. Be careful with the cable though as the weak solder joints are prone to breaking.


----------



## donunus

I noticed that my stax 252 has a hum that i can hear on the 202s even though the unit is unplugged. If I hold the 252s casing with my hands, the hum goes away. Is there any way I can permanently get rid of this hum?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a couple of srd7 mkII SB's one of which i was planning on tweaking and the other in daily use with my amp do you think this would be up to the job of driving the o2's?_

 

Don't know the NAD 3020B. But I can verify that a nice speaker amplifier paired up with the SRD-7MK2 (I only know the non-SB unit) are a quite nice match for the O2.

 My short impressions using the Signature 30.2 and β22 are that they lack a bit of the micro-details of direct driven amplifiers, but match it and more when it comes to control and punch. I could, and actually do, live happily with both ways. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best amp for my Lambdas? I have decided that is my next purchase. Or Sigmas, dead or alive. ]

 Are there any mods for the lambda?_

 

The SRM-1/MK2 is a nice match for the Lambda's. So are the SRM-007t, but at ~2x the price..

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed that my stax 252 has a hum that i can hear on the 202s even though the unit is unplugged. If I hold the 252s casing with my hands, the hum goes away. Is there any way I can permanently get rid of this hum?_

 

Hook up the SRM-252 chassis to ground. That should take care of it..


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best amp for my Lambdas? I have decided that is my next purchase. Or Sigmas, dead or alive. ]

 Are there any mods for the lambda?_

 

HeadphoneAddict has a Maxxed Woo GES that makes his SR-Lambda sound great, that would be my first choice. The SRM-007t would be my second for the Lambda, it was a nice improvemnt over my SRM-1/MK-2 and a better sonic match than my KGSS.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best amp for my Lambdas? I have decided that is my next purchase. Or Sigmas, dead or alive. ]

 Are there any mods for the lambda?_

 

The SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is very good with the Lambda, and a step up from the SRD-X out of the DV336i that I was using before I bought one. However, the SRM-T1 is even better with the SR-Lambda, after Sherwood brought his over to compare. It was very close in sound to the GES prototype loaner that is floating around, but with about 2 db more low bass. The GES maxed added those 2 db and the slightly missing transparency, micro detail and ambience on top of that, but power is about the same.


----------



## Sherwood

The 006t is a very similar topology to the SRM-T1 if I remember correctly, so both should sound excellent with the SR-Lambda. I love my SRM-T1 still, for what it's worth, and while I felt it was on par with the GES prototype that HeadphoneAddict had, it would not compete with his Maxed GES by any means.

 However, all that being said, the best upgrade I've yet heard for the Lambdas is a source upgrade. I recently replaced my 0404 USB with an Electrcompaniet ECD-1, and WOW, are those little Lambdas singing. I'll have to bring it by your place, Larry, for some listening with the big rig


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However, all that being said, the best upgrade I've yet heard for the Lambdas is a source upgrade. I recently replaced my 0404 USB with an Electrcompaniet ECD-1, and WOW, are those little Lambdas singing. I'll have to bring it by your place, Larry, for some listening with the big rig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations with the ECD1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A really great DAC, which lift most systems to new highs.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Yeah I think that the ECD1 would sound wonderful on any headphone lol.

 Just a weeeee bit over my budget. Pretty certain my wife would beat me with a baseball bat.

 Anyway, my Oritek is no slouch. I have a decent srd-7/amp combo. Would a different dac yield a bigger improvement than a better amp?

 I think my main complaint is still a lack of low end slam and extension. Just seems like it is missing something there and in the highest registries. Being very picky though.


----------



## Sherwood

Yeah, you're right, the Oritek is a great DAC. There's nothing near its price range I've heard that can touch it.

 It seems like you have a very well-balanced system. If what you want is bass slam, then you definitely don't want to put money towards a dedicated amp. If anything, my SRM-T1 loses a little slam over my SRD-6SB, but it does gain detail enough to make it worthwhile.

 P.S. thanks KRMathis. I know you were the proud owner of an ECD1 for quite a while, and I suspect I will be as well. What a source!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, you're right, the Oritek is a great DAC. There's nothing near its price range I've heard that can touch it.

 It seems like you have a very well-balanced system. If what you want is bass slam, then you definitely don't want to put money towards a dedicated amp. If anything, my SRM-T1 loses a little slam over my SRD-6SB, but it does gain detail enough to make it worthwhile.

 P.S. thanks KRMathis. I know you were the proud owner of an ECD1 for quite a while, and I suspect I will be as well. What a source!_

 

Thank you. I take great pride in this setup. It is a culmination of my knowledge gained from being here. I got the best rig I could afford.

 Detail gain? Hmmm. That would be ok for me. Voices could use more definition.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My short impressions using the Signature 30.2 and b22 are that they lack a bit of the micro-details of direct driven amplifiers, but match it and more when it comes to control and punch. I could, and actually do, live happily with both ways. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A sentiment i've heard before - that whatever a transformer box may lack in micro-detail and extreme spectral extension, they make up for in dynamic range. 

 'course, i still don't own any kind of direct-drive amp. And I'm guessing i won't until the good Dr. Gilmore delivers his updated version of his solid state amp using obtainable jfet pairs, and someone prints up a run of boards for DIYers. 

 Unless something just sort of becomes available for purchase at a can't-let-it-slip-by price.


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Hook up the SRM-252 chassis to ground. That should take care of it.._

 

tried touching the metal to my metal horns and it didnt seem to do anything


----------



## slwiser

I have to say that I got the Stax amps because I had a SRD-7 Pro and did a comparison for myself. I came away knowing that both had their reasons for being but I enjoyed the amps more. Therefore I now have the T1S and the KGSS. As is said, mileage does vary.


----------



## tako_tsubo

If you had pro bias earspeakers...no question the "to go to" amp would be the SRM 717. I will be happy with that until Justin gets the KGST ready...or ...the other competition in its price range.

 But as you are building on the normal bias earspakers...my recommendation would be trying out a Dared MP5 or any of its clones. Now I am using a srd7 mk2 or pro transformers but it gives me plenty of bass slam and bass control with enhanced mids and also some detail in the trebles that the srm1/mk2 pro did not have....with the Sigmas, which you are placing high on your try list. Wouldn't be surprised if that translated to the lambad also. I have a post in the av123 forum...which is back up, and have mentioned here also. Elephas has an old thread on it too...still has his with an Illusion.

 The srd 7+ amp journey is so big in terms of the amps that can being used that it seems everyone settles on the best they have right now, so there are many opinions on which are the good ones, and no real consensus. 

 The Ori dac is a good one, but the Stax earspeakers love the source so further improvements will improve the sound. Right now the Lavry DA10 and the Pico serve me well.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed that my stax 252 has a hum that i can hear on the 202s even though the unit is unplugged. If I hold the 252s casing with my hands, the hum goes away. Is there any way I can permanently get rid of this hum?_

 

I never had this issue with my SRM-212, nor did my father have it with his.

 I did have it intermittently with the Koss /E.9 box combined with a Quad 33 Preamp and 303 power amp, then the /E.9 sort of asploded. Horrible headphones those ESP9, although they did show me the light.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Man. I don't know if it is the amp or the dac. Maybe I just am not used to this sound. It is probably just the sound of the Ori. I know that he designed it for a long term non-fatiguing sound. I got it, believe or not, for long gaming sessions as much as for music. lol

 Think about it though. If you are hearing gunfire for 2 hrs, wouldn't you rather have it presented in a way that doesn't give you a headache?

 Btw my Pop Pulse amp is very little known but extraordinary in regards to speed and detail for the $$. Damn smooth sounding combo with the Ori. I don't know if the Dared 5 would be an improvement as much as just a different sound. 

 lol 

 I need two dacs and two amps to roll for my Stax. Screw tubes. I will switch whole setups!


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never had this issue with my SRM-212, nor did my father have it with his.

 I did have it intermittently with the Koss /E.9 box combined with a Quad 33 Preamp and 303 power amp, then the /E.9 sort of asploded. Horrible headphones those ESP9, although they did show me the light._

 

could be an issue with our power here in the Philippines... Unplugging the power strip where my TV and subwoofer is plugged into made s significant drop in the hum level


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man. I don't know if it is the amp or the dac. Maybe I just am not used to this sound. It is probably just the sound of the Ori. I know that he designed it for a long term non-fatiguing sound. I got it, believe or not, for long gaming sessions as much as for music. lol

 Think about it though. If you are hearing gunfire for 2 hrs, wouldn't you rather have it presented in a way that doesn't give you a headache?

 Btw my Pop Pulse amp is very little known but extraordinary in regards to speed and detail for the $$. Damn smooth sounding combo with the Ori. I don't know if the Dared 5 would be an improvement as much as just a different sound. 

 lol 

 I need two dacs and two amps to roll for my Stax. Screw tubes. I will switch whole setups!_

 

I have heard the Pop Pulse and it was nice, with the TC7510 as the source...did not hear it on my Stax system tho.
 Screw Tubes....no, a gentle rocking side to side as you push in


----------



## donunus

Figured out how to get rid of the leftover hum. Unplug the laptop or the usb cable from laptop to dac. The hum has something to do with the laptops power interacting with the usb connection. Its creating some sort of interferance because it makes the stax hum even though the amp is not plugged in the wall


----------



## Ricey20

Yep. Try plugging in your laptop to a inverter in your car while the car is running, you will get hum and static that will blow your ears


----------



## yale.reinstein

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed that my stax 252 has a hum that i can hear on the 202s even though the unit is unplugged. If I hold the 252s casing with my hands, the hum goes away. Is there any way I can permanently get rid of this hum?_

 

Yes, ground it or just wait. I had the same issue with my 252A and my Lambda Pros with a non-stax selected power supply - which I assumed was the culprit. Grounding it became a real hassle and strangely enough one night they no longer hummed!

 Also - for low level listening will I notice a difference with what I have if I upgrade to a nicer amp unit? I realize the 252 really doesn't have the juice for anything thumpy and loud - but I usually listen laying down in a silent room. Anyone have any suggestions for me? T1 or just hold out as long as possible and go for broke with something nicer? Another problem I have is the fact that I don't like the wideness and limited outputs of the current headamp KGSS or the look of tubes.


----------



## donunus

wait? hehehe What? it just goes away? maybe you didnt notice but something in your room was causing the hum and it went away when that appliance was no longer used. My transformer was supplied by audiocubes for the stax specifically by the way.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Figured out how to get rid of the leftover hum. Unplug the laptop or the usb cable from laptop to dac. The hum has something to do with the laptops power interacting with the usb connection. Its creating some sort of interferance because it makes the stax hum even though the amp is not plugged in the wall_

 

I had the same problem with a srm-323/sr-303 and it got very loud if I touched the laptop (macbook Pro). It was also impossible to use wireless microphones when the laptop was running.
 I now use an old Macbook G4 for music and the problem has gone away.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## oofie810

I have the same problem with my 252A. Temporary solution for me was to connect it to my LD mkIII using rca cables. Now my problem now is that I want to sell my litte dot.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, ground it or just wait. I had the same issue with my 252A and my Lambda Pros with a non-stax selected power supply - which I assumed was the culprit. Grounding it became a real hassle and strangely enough one night they no longer hummed!

 Also - for low level listening will I notice a difference with what I have if I upgrade to a nicer amp unit? I realize the 252 really doesn't have the juice for anything thumpy and loud - but I usually listen laying down in a silent room. Anyone have any suggestions for me? T1 or just hold out as long as possible and go for broke with something nicer? Another problem I have is the fact that I don't like the wideness and limited outputs of the current headamp KGSS or the look of tubes._

 

Justin could add more outputs to your KGSS. I had mine made with 2 pro bias and 1 normal bias output. For the Lambda Pro I would suggest the Woo GES it's a much better sonic match than the KGSS.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Figured out how to get rid of the leftover hum. Unplug the laptop or the usb cable from laptop to dac. The hum has something to do with the laptops power interacting with the usb connection. Its creating some sort of interferance because it makes the stax hum even though the amp is not plugged in the wall_

 

It sounds like this could be a ground loop. What frequency is the hum? If it's 2x your mains frequency (I don't know if your power out there is 60 cycle like north america or 50 cycle), then it's probably a ground loop. 

 Transformer-coupling the audio would probably help, but might color the sound as well. 

 At least I'm assuming here that you're using a usb dac rather than a usb spdif interface connected to another dac. IMHO it's easier to transformer-couple spdif than analog without making any negative impact.


----------



## donunus

the hum is 50 or 60 hz not double


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A sentiment i've heard before - that whatever a transformer box may lack in micro-detail and extreme spectral extension, they make up for in dynamic range._

 

Yeah, it seems to be the general consensus.
 I have never heard a really powerful direct-driven amplifier like the KGBH, or a larger transformer than the SRD-7 Pro, so its not the final word. It can be a pointer in the right direction though.


----------



## Kraps

Will SRM 727II be able to drive two O2's at a time (since it has two outputs)?


----------



## 2deadeyes

Not sure but from using the 717, it was able to drive 2 O2s, MK1 and MK2, with no problems. I would assume the 727 shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## minivan

has any1 brought up this interview of head of stax and technical director of stax before?
 it talk about:
 stax's business operation, number of staff, manufacturing process, the originality of the making of 007a and comparison of 007 vs 007a, reason why they change the voltage bias from 230v to 580 v. about they will be releasing a model price in between 007a and 404, releasing a 001mk2 for better portability, discussion of solid state vs tube amp


----------



## Oublie

have you the original links minivan or a text version of this info 

 tks


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_has any1 brought up this interview of head of stax and technical director of stax before?
 it talk about:
 stax's business operation, number of staff, manufacturing process, the originality of the making of 007a and comparison of 007 vs 007a, reason why they change the voltage bias from 230v to 580 v. about they will be releasing a model price in between 007a and 404, releasing a 001mk2 for better portability, discussion of solid state vs tube amp_

 

It would be awesome if you could translate some of the more interesting excerpts from it (eg. 007 vs 007a)!


----------



## AudioCats

Is that an old article?

 "a model priced in between 007A and 404"......4070?

 "releasing a 001mk2 for better portability"...... another mk2? or the mk2 we already have?


----------



## catscratch

The 4070 was out well before the 007a, I think. Personally, I'd much rather see them redo the 007 rather than keeping the 007a as a flagship and releasing another model in between. Then, they should fix that awful Lambda housing and get the drivers singing like they should. But maybe that's what the new model would be - an open 4070, i.e. better housing than the 404 but same drivers.

 Remaking the 001 is a good idea too, but they should redo the amp sonically and worry about portability later. The amp sucks compared to what DIY modded versions can do. Right now the 001 is better than universal-fit IEMs for the most part, but only just, and it needs to be clearly head-and-shoulders above everything else to make it an attractive option - the way it is when you mod it.

 Then make an amp that can actually drive the 007 and that doesn't suck.

 I'm disappointed with Stax these days, to say the least.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will SRM 727II be able to drive two O2's at a time (since it has two outputs)?_

 

Yes it will. The sound quality will hurt though, as they will share the voltage it puts out.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm disappointed with Stax these days, to say the least._

 

I'm not disappointed with Stax, but of course I wouldn't mind more improved products.

 I don't think as badly of the O2Mk2 as some others do, but I do think that it is different enough from the O2Mk1 to be potentially disappointing for those who really like the O2Mk1. If one considers the O2Mk1 to be the most neutral, least colored and best tonally balanced, I can understand how the O2Mk2 would then be considered inferior. But then, if the difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 means so much, that would probably also mean the person considers all other headphones inferior to the O2Mk1. 

 So, O2Mk1 fanboys dissing all other headphones, including O2Mk2? Not exactly a surprising phenomenon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Nah, I'm just joking with the fanboys bit. I don't think it's fanboyism to prefer the O2Mk1. I also like the O2Mk1 very much and consider it one of my Top 5 favorites, or maybe even Top 3. Top 2 is also possible, but not Top 1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think the O2Mk2, 4070 and Airbow SR-SC1, all current production models, are competitive with or better than most other current headphones. I haven't heard the Jade, Ultrasone Ed. 9, TakeT and a few others, but I believe the Stax models are well-matched with most other current alternatives.

 Even versus out of production headphones, I think the current Stax lineup acquits itself reasonably well. The HE90, HE60, O2Mk1, SR-Omega, K1000, R10, Qualia, L3000, PS-1, HP-2 are tough competitors. But even so, I think the O2Mk2 doesn't do too badly, and the 4070 and SR-SC1 have their own unique strengths to compete effectively.

 4070: relative price, closed, isolation, details, clarity
 SR-SC1: price, lightweight, comfort, all-around good performance


----------



## Kraps

Thanks, Since I need this arrangement for comparison of two supposedly identical headphones, I think the drawback in quality would not be an issue, provided of course that the quality suffers in identical manner on both.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I think Stax needs to make a 5.1 headspeaker system for me.

 Maybe it is just b/c my kitten has me up so early but it seems to be a no brainer. 

 Hmmm. What would it look like I wonder? Kind of like 2 1/2 Sigmas all mashed together? lol


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...if the difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 means so much, that would probably also mean the person considers all other headphones inferior to the O2Mk1._

 

Ding, ding, ding!! We have a winner! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also consider most speakers inferior to the SR-007 Mk1 but that's another matter. I do think you are onto something with the A/Mk2 being voiced for the new Stax amps but that's like voicing the HD600 for use only with a CMOY. Stax can certainly do better then this and have done so in the past.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nah, I'm just joking with the fanboys bit. I don't think it's fanboyism to prefer the O2Mk1. I also like the O2Mk1 very much and consider it one of my Top 5 favorites, or maybe even Top 3. Top 2 is also possible, but not Top 1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well for me fanboyism has little to do with it. If anything, I prefer a more HE90-like sound and colorations. The reason for such strong preference on my part is that I really hate the kind of midrange coloration that the O2 Mk2 has, which the SR-404 also has and a lot of other headphones I could name. I really don't like that sort of sound and it was disappointing to say the least to have it transplanted into the O2.


----------



## Oublie

Hi folks,

 What sort of 'load' in ohms (if i have my terminology right) does an energiser give a power amp? We know that speakers are rated at certain rough ohm values normally 4 or 8 ohms although from my understanding this is variable. So what about the energiser when in use and connected to a set of earspeakers. I understand that its more about voltage than current but what effect is there in say for instance driving the energiser with a 4ohm 2ohm or 1 ohm amp?

 Thanks.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think Stax needs to make a 5.1 headspeaker system for me.

 Maybe it is just b/c my kitten has me up so early but it seems to be a no brainer. 

 Hmmm. What would it look like I wonder? Kind of like 2 1/2 Sigmas all mashed together? lol_

 

Speaking of which, I haven't heard of the Smyth Virtual Surround (SVS) for a while. It was presented with a Stax system. I wonder if will it ever go to production.


----------



## Lornecherry

I'm _still_ trying to get an SRD-7 Pro, and as such am bidding on a couple of European auctions. Does anyone know if the conversion is easy to do to 117 V from 220 V?


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speaking of which, I haven't heard of the Smyth Virtual Surround (SVS) for a while. It was presented with a Stax system. I wonder if will it ever go to production._

 

Hey, I forgot about that. It would be really cool to get that system. Going to google for some new info.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lornecherry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still trying to get an SRD-7 Pro, and as such am bidding on a couple of European auctions. Does anyone know if the conversion is easy to do to 117 V from 220 V?_

 

Yeah, its very easy.
 Just replace the wall plug with one that fit your outlet. More specific, from an Europlug (click) to something else (no idea where you live).

 The SRD-7 family accept 100-24v input.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ding, ding, ding!! We have a winner! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Haha, see how I can read the minds of the Mk1 preferrers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi folks,

 What sort of 'load' in ohms (if i have my terminology right) does an energiser give a power amp? We know that speakers are rated at certain rough ohm values normally 4 or 8 ohms although from my understanding this is variable. So what about the energiser when in use and connected to a set of earspeakers. I understand that its more about voltage than current but what effect is there in say for instance driving the energiser with a 4ohm 2ohm or 1 ohm amp?

 Thanks._

 

Speakers are rated at a nominal impedance but in reality it varies quite a bit with frequency. The Stax boxes are nominally 8 ohm but I'm not aware of any testing to determine how far down they go with a certain headphone.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well for me fanboyism has little to do with it. If anything, I prefer a more HE90-like sound and colorations. The reason for such strong preference on my part is that I really hate the kind of midrange coloration that the O2 Mk2 has, which the SR-404 also has and a lot of other headphones I could name. I really don't like that sort of sound and it was disappointing to say the least to have it transplanted into the O2._

 

I didn't find that much similarity between the 007A and the 404. The upper range peak in the 007A was higher up than the 404, I estimated about 8kHz for the 007A based on the amount of tape hiss I was hearing. The 404 had a deeper bass extension. However with Spritzer's spring mod in place the deep bass seemed pretty equal in the 2 phones and the other lower frequency regions of the 007A seemed more prominent, making the upper frequency peak less prominent. The spring-modded 007A had a sonic signature more like my Sigma/404 but with more deep bass. The 007A has that and better imaging and detail. However, the Sigma/404 has a more open sound due to the forward placing of the drivers.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey Spritzer, what, if any, changes happen when you change to new pads on the Lambdas? My pads are in ok shape but kind of hard. The suppleness is mostly gone and I think the seal is not complete all of the time.


----------



## bobglaub

So, I just bought the Stax SR-Lambda + SRD7-SB combo from the FS section..looking for the best bang for my buck speaker amp to power them. I dont want to spend too much right now..under 200 bucks if possible, with the holidays and all..just want to be able to enjoy them now..and upgrade down the road. Thanks.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I would recommend either a vintage audio receiver or a new Nuforce Icon 12 watt desktop amp as the best bang for the buck, followed by the Travagans Red which is also a nice small headphone amp with 5 watt speaker out. The Nuforce is better as speaker amp than headphone amp, and the Travagans is better as a headphone amp than a speaker amp, but both will get the job done nicely. You can search for my posts with the words Nuforce and SRD-7 in them for more info. Those should fall in your price range, or for a little more there is the Dared MP5 tube amp. Later, you could get a nicer amp or dedicated stat amp. JonL seems to be very happy driving the SRD transfer boxes with an Almarro A205A Mk2 tube amp.


----------



## bobglaub

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll give the Nuforce a look.


----------



## larryminator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bobglaub* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, I just bought the Stax SR-Lambda + SRD7-SB combo from the FS section..looking for the best bang for my buck speaker amp to power them. I dont want to spend too much right now..under 200 bucks if possible, with the holidays and all..just want to be able to enjoy them now..and upgrade down the road. Thanks._

 

Trends Audio TA10.1 works great also 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I love this little amplifier.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would recommend either a vintage audio receiver or a new Nuforce Icon 12 watt desktop amp as the best bang for the buck, followed by the Travagans Red which is also a nice small headphone amp with 5 watt speaker out. The Nuforce is better as speaker amp than headphone amp, and the Travagans is better as a headphone amp than a speaker amp, but both will get the job done nicely. You can search for my posts with the words Nuforce and SRD-7 in them for more info. Those should fall in your price range, or for a little more there is the Dared MP5 tube amp. Later, you could get a nicer amp or dedicated stat amp. JonL seems to be very happy driving the SRD transfer boxes with an Almarro A205A Mk2 tube amp._

 

what would you look for in a vintage amp? What falls into the vintage catagory? If it has input for cd, is it still vintage?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what would you look for in a vintage amp? What falls into the vintage catagory? If it has input for cd, is it still vintage?_

 

There are other people better suited to answer that than me, but I was thinking of something like a late 70's early 80's Onkyo or Marantz, or a Fisher C500. Peeps here seem to dig the old stuff before it all came from China. As for me - I'm fine with the Nuforce for now.


----------



## Sherwood

I imagine your current Nakamichi classifies as plenty vintage, Keith


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speakers are rated at a nominal impedance but in reality it varies quite a bit with frequency. The Stax boxes are nominally 8 ohm but I'm not aware of any testing to determine how far down they go with a certain headphone._

 

Thanks Spitzer, thats what i needed to know.


----------



## Elephas

I have another theory about O2Mk1 preferrers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think the Mk2 sound has some qualities that can be characterized as kind of a typical Grado sound: a more forward midrange, more forward-sounding vocals (which sound "closer" to you) and stronger mid-bass impact.

 The PS-1 is an example that has precisely those qualities. Its midrange is more dominant, and mid-bass impact is strong. I think the Mk2 can be described as a Mk1 injected with some PS-1 qualities.

 Therefore, I would suspect that Mk1 preferrers don't like the PS-1, and most Grados in general. Maybe with the exception of the HP1000 and GS1000.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are other people better suited to answer that than me, but I was thinking of something like a late 70's early 80's Onkyo or Marantz, or a Fisher C500. Peeps here seem to dig the old stuff before it all came from China. As for me - I'm fine with the Nuforce for now._

 

A lot of Solid State amps of that era is what gave Solid State it’s bad name. Even a lot of High End Solid State names of that era were not good. That was back when specifications were deemed more important than audible sound quality. That’s when we saw a resurgence of the vacuum tube. I would look at more recent Solid State designs (nineties and up) by names like NAD, Denon, Rotel, Musical Fidelity, Cambridge and Onkyo to name a few. Some of the more recent tube amps from China are going used cheap on Audiogon. A vintage tube amp would also be good. Names like Dynaco, Heathkit, Fisher, Scott, Sherwood to name a few. My favorite old tube amp to drive a SRD is the Dynaco Stereo 35. The integrated amp version is called the SCA-35. 17 watts per channel using the famous EL-84 output tube.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have another theory about O2Mk1 preferrers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think the Mk2 sound has some qualities that can be characterized as kind of a typical Grado sound: a more forward midrange, more forward-sounding vocals (which sound "closer" to you) and stronger mid-bass impact.

 The PS-1 is an example that has precisely those qualities. Its midrange is more dominant, and mid-bass impact is strong. I think the Mk2 can be described as a Mk1 injected with some PS-1 qualities.

 Therefore, I would suspect that Mk1 preferrers don't like the PS-1, and most Grados in general. Maybe with the exception of the HP1000 and GS1000._

 

Would you say the mk2 is therefore closer to the HE60 than the mk1?

 If so, the mk2 might be just right for me. Comparing the Lambda Signature and the HE60, I like the HE60 better because of its more forward midrange. Voices are so real and involving! However, I really like the bass of the Lambda Signature, but am not so fond of its 'fake' midrange. Thus a mix between the two, combining the strong points of each, would be my ideal headphone.
 Have you got any experience with the Lambda Signature? (I see you have a HE60 in your collection.) How does its bass compare to that of the SR-007 (either version)? I should really audition a SR-007 in the near future... I'm so curious whether its bass is not too overwhelming for me in the long run. The things said about the mk2 make me think it suits me better, that's why I'm asking.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would you say the mk2 is therefore closer to the HE60 than the mk1?_

 

Ah, not really.

 Suppose the Mk1 is the HD600 and the Mk2 is the HD650.

 The HE60 might be the SA5000. Hard to say which is closer to the SA5000. If forced to make a choice, I would probably pick the HD600.

  Quote:


 Have you got any experience with the Lambda Signature? (I see you have a HE60 in your collection.) How does its bass compare to that of the SR-007 (either version)? 
 

I've never heard a Lambda Signature. However, I noticed that my Airbow SR-SC1 has a Lambda Signature logo on the headband. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think both the Mk1 and Mk2 have stronger bass than the HE60. Remember that this can vary a bit, though, particularly with amplification and/or tube changes. But overall the Mk2 has strongest bass impact, mostly in the mid-bass region, followed by the Mk1 and then the HE60.

 I also think that both the Mk1 and Mk2 have better quality bass than the HE60, with more details and textures. With their superior pinpoint imaging, their bass also seems to be more coherent and less muddled.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Suppose the Mk1 is the HD600..._

 

Warning!

 Spritzer, avert your eyes and don't read this!

 And don't puke!


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Warning!

 Spritzer, avert your eyes and don't read this!

 And don't puke!_

 

LOL, I want Spritzer to read that and to puke hahaha ;D


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I like my balanced HD600 much better than HD650, so I suppose I need to start looking for a Mk1 now. 

 Wait a minute! I like the PS-1 just a little more than the HP-1000 (with the right amp), so I suppose I need to keep my Mk2. 

 Aw, I'm so confused.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL, I want Spritzer to read that and to puke hahaha ;D_

 

No such luck... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's actually not a bad comparison as the HD600 is the last good headphone that Senn made. The HD650 only deserves to be at the receiving end of a hammer... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I liked the Grado HP2 I had but never understood why people paid so much for them. I've never heard a PS-1 but the rest of the Grado's are ehhh... not that good. 

 The Mk1 is the best headphone ever made IMO, tough to please and will rip most sources a new one, but there is nothing that compares. The Mk2 should be even better but instead they decided to give them a "sound". In my eyes a component should be neutral and not have a sound of any kind, just relay what's on the recording with no fuss. Nothing is perfect though but the Mk2 simply strays to far from the ideal. Fully modified it isn't perfect but a lot better then a stock unit in revealing what's on the recording and not injecting its own character on everything.


----------



## brat

* A problem with SRM-727II:*
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...
 I hear a conciderable increase of the highs of my O2mk2. For the past few weeks somehow the highs opened and become more shrill and noticeable, some squeaky and ticking sounds protrude above the whole sound "picture". I mean sounds like the sound of a harpsichord or the movement of the fingers over the quitar's neck, or some "parasite" sounds which are found in all acoustic records. Before this transformation the sound of the O2mk2 was smoother and more laid back without anytning annoying and distracting my listening. Now it's more k701-like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In fact now the amount of the highs of my Omega is almost like of my k701.
 I've tried different sources and have found that it's not a source issue. It's just the headphones or the amp.
 I repeat - I don't know if it's a problem or a burn-in effect. But I don't like it._

 

After comparison with another SRM-727II it was found that my SRM-727II causes the sharp peak of the highs and the overall harshness and sibilance of my system.
*The sound symmetry of the problem makes me think that it is in that part of the circuitry which is before the channel separation.*
 Any ideas what may cause these shrillness and harshness of my amp?
 Has anyone bump into such a problem with any electrostatic amp?


----------



## mingde10467

I've learned that the earpads from the MK2 fit the SR-007. Can anyone advise me as to whether they find the MK2 pads (lambskin) more comfortable and less moisture-producing than the synthetic leather pads that come with the SR007?

 New pads are expensive so I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

The earpads on the Mk1 SR-007 are 100% real leather while the new ones are only partially made out of leather. The mk2/A pads are a bit more comfortable when it comes to moisture buildup but not by much, at least here up in the frozen north.


----------



## Michgelsen

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Elephas. Maybe I should just stop visiting here, and start believing I've found my perfect set of headphones.
 Spritzer, why do you come here still? You have found your ideal one for years already, haven't you?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, why do you come here still? You have found your ideal one for years already, haven't you?_

 

Somebody has to answer you questions...


----------



## Michgelsen

Ah so it's from a pure altruistic standpoint that you're still here! How noble of you!


 [size=xx-small]and useful too[/size]


----------



## spacemanspliff

Merry Christmas to all who help the ignorant. Spritzer is certainly being self-less in this regard. Thanks.

 Now, will new pads help my Lambdas at all or not? The pads are in fine shape but old and tend to lose seal with movement. Just not supple anymore. I keep them clean but still have that issue.


----------



## donunus

Just wondering... how much better is the SRM-300 against the 252?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* A problem with SRM-727II:*

 After comparison with another SRM-727II it was found that my SRM-727II causes the sharp peak of the highs and the overall harshness and sibilance of my system.
*The sound symmetry of the problem makes me think that it is in that part of the circuitry which is before the channel separation.*
 Any ideas what may cause these shrillness and harshness of my amp?
 Has anyone bump into such a problem with any electrostatic amp?_

 

Are both amps set for the same voltage? Are the switches at the back both set right? Are you using the same power cords? Any of these could affect the sound. Then, of course, hopefully your amp has not got a defect.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are both amps set for the same voltage? Are the switches at the back both set right? Are you using the same power cords? Any of these could affect the sound. Then, of course, hopefully your amp has not got a defect._

 

Everything with my amp was just OK but about one month ago I've noticed the first sympthoms of the problem - slight ticking sounds which bit by bit grew into overall harshness and sibilance that is just opposite to the native smoothness of my system.
 About the voltage: my amp has been rewired from 117 to 220V but I've listened without any problem for some months untill the problem appeared.


----------



## AudioCats

how is the bias voltage? do you have a way to check that? Low bias + cranked up stator swing can cause harshness like that, but the bias voltage will have to be way low and stator swing voltage has to be way high. If that is the problem you would have noticed the volumn setting being much higher than before.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The earpads on the Mk1 SR-007 are 100% real leather while the new ones are only partially made out of leather. The mk2/A pads are a bit more comfortable when it comes to moisture buildup but not by much, at least here up in the frozen north._

 

Are you sure about Mk1 pads? They look very much like higher grade artificial leather to me.


----------



## minivan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be awesome if you could translate some of the more interesting excerpts from it (eg. 007 vs 007a)!_

 

Ok here's my clumsy attempt on translation of the stax interview
 "Some of the 007 in the past were returned by customer had cables pulled out. problem was solved in 007a by having screw fixed on the cable. When this was fixed we start to think about what else can be done to improved the headphone, we had tried real leather ear pad On 404 in the past, customers who had trial this come back with good feedback, breathable and not sweaty. When we tried the italy sheep leather ear pad on the 007, we were surprised to find that the volume became louder, solving the problem 007 long had, bumping of certain frequency range on the bass spectrum. There were people complaint in the past about the 007, saying the bass is not smooth enough, changing to the new ear pad give the 007a a more even and flatter bass spectrum"


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure about Mk1 pads? They look very much like higher grade artificial leather to me._

 

The Mk1 earpads seem to be good quality artificial leather to me.

 The Mk2 earpads smells like real leather, and look and feel like good quality real leather.

 Whether the Mk1 earpads are real leather or not, I don't think they feel as good as the Mk2 earpads. Their padding is also not as firm and they compress more easily.

 According to Stax PDF catalogs downloaded from their website, the Mk1 earpads are "high quality artificial leather" and the Mk2 earpads are:

 "Real leather (Sheep) used on a part coming into contact with the skin. High-quality leather used for the surrounding part."

 You can find the PDF files on the Stax website, or use these download links:

SR-007

SR-007 MkII

Earpad installation guide


----------



## The Monkey

How difficult (or easy) is it to change the pads on the 007 and 007a?


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering... how much better is the SRM-300 against the 252?_

 

Ive been ignored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 hehehe actually i'll revise the question. What is the best value amp for the entry level lambda 202


----------



## eduj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ive been ignored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 hehehe actually i'll revise the question. What is the best value amp for the entry level lambda 202_

 

IMHO:Best value--> 252 or 212
 Best sound--->717


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, will new pads help my Lambdas at all or not? The pads are in fine shape but old and tend to lose seal with movement. Just not supple anymore. I keep them clean but still have that issue._

 

The vinyl gets less malleable with age so the new pads will be softer and more comfortable. I would change but the material is slightly different so you might like the old pads more. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure about Mk1 pads? They look very much like higher grade artificial leather to me._

 

100% sure. Just pull them off and then pull them apart. Then looking at the suede like finish at the back proves that they are leather while the vinyl Stax use has a woven fabric backing. They also age like leather and not like the vinyl pads on the SR-Omega. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How difficult (or easy) is it to change the pads on the 007 and 007a?_

 

It's a pain the first time you do it but gets easier. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There are tips on how to do it towards the end of the "to tweak 007A..." thread


----------



## mingde10467

Thanks for your comments!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey guys, gals, others, 

 The Pop Pulse amp is a killer. I got mine hooked up with a 10 awg Tributaries pc. It is some monster that looks like a big garden hose. Cost me $42 at audio advisor.

 Anyway, got that plugged straight into the wall. My PC and Oritek dac w/ gutwire pc(excellent btw)are plugged into a tripp lite L250 power conditioner.

 So this combo is pretty amazing. Tight, tight focus. Really awesome detail and speed. I want to add a sub for tactile impact. Maybe something small like the Totem storm.


----------



## Sherwood

How much of the performance do you attribute to the power cords?


----------



## minivan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_have you the original links minivan or a text version of this info 

 tks_

 

Amazon.co.jp&#xFF1A; &#x65B0;&#x30FB;&#x840C;&#x3048;&#x308B;&#x30D8;&# x30C3;&#x30C9;&#x30DB;&#x30F3;&#x8AAD;&#x672C;: &#x5CA9;&#x4E95; &#x55AC;: &#x672C;


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much of the performance do you attribute to the power cords?_

 

The power stuff just seems to clean up the sound. Background is blacker and thus the details stand out more.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I have a question regarding stax pads. I believe I have the original pads on my sr-lambdas. they are in great shape, at least by the looks. It came to me that the pads may have compressed over the years. if your pads are not damaged, how do you know if they need replacing? is this a pointless upgrade if they arnt falling apart?


----------



## Sherwood

The seal is much less important on the Lambda than on other models, IMHO, so I wouldn't worry about the pads if they're comfortable to you. I'm in the same boat, though, so if I decide to put some new ones on I'll let you know.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The seal is much less important on the Lambda than on other models, IMHO, so I wouldn't worry about the pads if they're comfortable to you. I'm in the same boat, though, so if I decide to put some new ones on I'll let you know._

 

cool, thanks. I was thinking about it in terms of how it would change the distance from the driver to the ear. I'm trying to find out how thick the pads are supposed to be, as i've been experimenting with that.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

New discovery. this may or may not be tied into my last question about pads. I have noticed on my sr-lambdas, that when I pull the base of the cans slightly away from my head (under my ears), the bass and overall soundstage gets clearer, bigger, better. I noticed this a while ago, and I thought I was imagining it at first, but I've been fooling with it, and I'm sure I hear an improvement. the amount I am moving them is very small. I am wondering if this has more to do with breaking whatever seal there is, or if I am hearing a piece of spritzers mod where he removed the inner fiberglass padding, which I have not done by the way. It could be the actual distance I am moving the diaphragms from my ears, but I cant make that call because I am also breaking the seal by doing so. has anyone heard of this before? and if so, what did you come up with. 

 I also feel that with the improvement of the bass, the low midrange also comes up. I like this, because the cans seem a bit mid pushed at times.

 this of course could all be due to needing new pads. which I'm not sure I do.. see, I've come full circle. help?


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ive been ignored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 hehehe actually i'll revise the question. What is the best value amp for the entry level lambda 202_

 


 The one you have
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But the next step is to get a used SRM-1 mkII, or a 313/323.
 I've got a srm-323 paired with the 202 I got on a deal from Headroom.
 The SRM-1 is better. I'm using it with the 404's, and it tames some of the high end glare. The 202 seems to pair better with the SRM-323 than the 
 404's did.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_100% sure. Just pull them off and then pull them apart. Then looking at the suede like finish at the back proves that they are leather while the vinyl Stax use has a woven fabric backing. They also age like leather and not like the vinyl pads on the SR-Omega. _

 

Are all SR-007 pads are leather or just some? Why does Stax literature lists them as artificial leather? This Stax pads business is confusing to me. I really like my SR-007 pads, more than SR-007Mk2 pads. Also SR-007BL pads felt different to me.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The one you have
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But the next step is to get a used SRM-1 mkII, or a 313/323.
 I've got a srm-323 paired with the 202 I got on a deal from Headroom.
 The SRM-1 is better. I'm using it with the 404's, and it tames some of the high end glare. The 202 seems to pair better with the SRM-323 than the 
 404's did._

 

I agree with you in that the SRM-T1S that I have tames the highs of the 404 somewhat.


----------



## donunus

The 202s highs dont need taming. they are already a little tame so if i get another amp for them it would be something that will add crispness to the highs and more power and dynamics. Wonder what amp that might be


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 202s highs dont need taming. they are already a little tame so if i get another amp for them it would be something that will add crispness to the highs and more power and dynamics. Wonder what amp that might be_

 

SRM-1 Mk2 Pro or Woo GES.


----------



## donunus

Where do I get the srm1-mk2 and what is a good price for them usually


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do I get the srm1-mk2 and what is a good price for them usually_

 

They pop up here or on eBay or audiogon from time to time. One with Pro/Normal bias jacks commands about $450 and one with Pro/Pro about $400, and one with normal/normal about $350 but wont do you any good.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amazon.co.jp&#xFF1A; &#x65B0;&#x30FB;&#x840C;&#x3048;&#x308B;&#x30D8;&# x30C3;&#x30C9;&#x30DB;&#x30F3;&#x8AAD;&#x672C;: &#x5CA9;&#x4E95; &#x55AC;: &#x672C;_

 

Thanks minivan.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do I get the srm1-mk2 and what is a good price for them usually_

 

They show up at Amplification For Sale / Trade forum, eBay, AudiogoN, ... once in a while.
 The price differ, considering that there are several versions. The old ones with two Normal bias outputs, the Pro one with a Normal and a Pro bias output, and the P.P. one with two Pro boas outputs. But anywhere between $300 and $500 seems fair.


----------



## donunus

thanks for the responses guys. i'll keep the srm1-mk2 in mind


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are all SR-007 pads are leather or just some? Why does Stax literature lists them as artificial leather? This Stax pads business is confusing to me. I really like my SR-007 pads, more than SR-007Mk2 pads. Also SR-007BL pads felt different to me._

 

Stax literature is more Engrish then Enlish most of the time so who knows. Looks like I'll have to break open a set of Mk1 pads and open them up... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've never had a Mk1 BL and Stax won't sell the black pads from Japan so I don't know if they differ. If somebody has a spare set of black Mk1 pads then I'd like to buy it... new or used.


----------



## Duggeh

Have you tried buying a set through a distributor?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

really? no one has any insight on my previous post?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_really? no one has any insight on my previous post?_

 

I think its related to you breaking the seal, and hence allowing the transducers to move with less resistance.
 I remember noticing similar experience with my SR-Lambda Pro's as well. The sound stage might have improved, but to my ears it hurt the bass. The bass get too much bloom for my taste.

 Removing the back damping did the same for the sound stage, without hurting the bass.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_really? no one has any insight on my previous post?_

 

You're not the first one to discover increased bass, midbass, and soundstage when breaking the seal on lambda pads. It's been discussed a few times in this thread. 

 Wualta may be the one best qualified to comment on it. 

 As for spritzer's mod - spritzer has a strong bias toward air-damped designs - a preference that borders on pathology - so what works for him may not be what works for anybody else. 

 I wonder if the broken seal can be simulated by inserting a short length of one of those double-barreled coffee staws between earpad and baffle.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much of the performance do you attribute to the power cords?_

 

I got a new cord from Signal Cable " Magic Power" for $59.00. It is a very beefy cable about 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. It is definitely a step up from my last budget power cord and does great things with my newly obtained SRM1MK2. For anyone out there who doesn't think power cables matter this qould be a good one to try.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do I get the srm1-mk2 and what is a good price for them usually_

 

I recently got an excellent B model with one pro and one low bias outlet, shipped from Europe for US$297.00. Other have been selling on Ebay for similar amounts although often the price is up because you have to buy a set of phones as well, usually a Lambda.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I wan't happy with my Lambdas until I took the backing out. They just sounded muffled. I'm sure the difference is slight but still.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you tried buying a set through a distributor?_

 

Nope, that will be the next step if I can't get them through any other channels. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for spritzer's mod - spritzer has a strong bias toward air-damped designs - a preference that borders on pathology - so what works for him may not be what works for anybody else._

 

Hey... there are some phones that work much better with damping such as the older Stax phones (including the SR-X line) and the T-50 (really iso-dynamics in general). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 When typing this I'm reminded how good my crap Koss/SFI poil-o-crap sounds with a lot of very crude damping. That being said there are some improvements to be had from removing the wool on the SR-Lambda if you can live with the down side, i.e. the upper midrange etch which the damping tames. I do think that Stax could have done a better job on air damping the Lambda drivers...

 Though as always YMMV as I have pretty strong preferences when it comes to sound.


----------



## edstrelow

Are all the Lambdas equally well damped? My 404 seems to have a pretty tight seal when it is on my head, but my Lambda Nova seems less tight.


----------



## spritzer

The seal is not the same as damping. If the Nova has the stock pads then they are the reason for the difference in seal due to the different materials. Could also be a glue problem.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I'm glad I got some insight on this. it is very interesting to me. how thick are lambda pads supposed to be? is there an actual measurement listed somewhere? I think I may try removing the padding, just to see what you guys are talking about. especially since It can be reversed. I would still like to hear from those who have heard this change, and if you did anything about it.


----------



## Elephas

The Lambda earpads are thinner at the front and thicker at the back.

 The bottom back part is the thickest at 20mm, while the top back part is about 16mm.

 The top front and bottom front are both about 10mm thick.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An online shop or a dealer delivering Stax throughout the EU?_

 

My recent developments: After a good volume of correspondence going back and forth and involving virtually any STAX distributor in Europe (not just the EU) I've been the happy owner of an O2MKII/SRM727II set for a couple of weeks already. I pruchased it from the Norwegian distributor and I am quite happy with the deal and with the communication with the guy. Now I am in the process of getting into the electrostatic performance


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My recent developments: After a good volume of correspondence going back and forth and involving virtually any STAX distributor in Europe (not just the EU) I've been the happy owner of an O2MKII/SRM727II set for a couple of weeks already. I pruchased it from the Norwegian distributor and I am quite happy with the deal and with the communication with the guy. Now I am in the process of getting into the electrostatic performance 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations with the O2MKII system! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Tor at T.AA.Import is a really nice guy. I actually bought my SR-007BL/SRM-007t system from his as well. Personal visit at his store that is, since I am local.


----------



## Elephas

Yay, Team Mk2!

 I'm feeling a bit sorry for Mk1 preferrers, who are using those inferior ?leather? earpads.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay, Team Mk2!

 I'm feeling a bit sorry for Mk1 preferrers, who are using those inferior ?leather? earpads._

 

^ Luckily (or not...) I have never heard the SR-007A or MK2.
 So don't know what I am, or am not, missing out of.


----------



## minivan

any1 has the 007 and 007a care to do an a/b by swapping out the ear pad? it had been stated in the stax interview the sound diff is merely from the diff of the artificial leather and leather ear pad. some1 in the other forum had did an a/b and validated the point. it will help for people in the future who want to have the best of both world, buy the 007a with better cable attachment and buy the 007 ear pad


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any1 has the 007 and 007a care to do an a/b by swapping out the ear pad? it had been stated in the stax interview the sound diff is merely from the diff of the artificial leather and leather ear pad. some1 in the other forum had did an a/b and validated the point. it will help for people in the future who want to have the best of both world, buy the 007a with better cable attachment and buy the 007 ear pad_

 


 I ordered a set of mk1 pads last week for my smegma pro, so maybe I'll try them on my mk2.


----------



## spritzer

The one of the first things I did to try and make the A/Mk2 suck less 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 was to install some spare Mk1 pads and while the sound changed for the better I believe it had little to do with the material used. The Mk1 pads are a much tighter fit so won't allow the spring to elevate the pads as much as the Mk2 pads do. What the improvements were I can't recall now but I may have written about it "over there".


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_any1 has the 007 and 007a care to do an a/b by swapping out the ear pad?_

 

I tried both SR-007a pads on SR-007 and vice versa - difference was minimal as far as I can recall. I didn't try swapping the springs though, so my view is that the spring diameter likely has much greater effect on the sound because it directly affects how well the earpads seal.


----------



## The Monkey

When my mk1 arrives, I am purposely NOT going to A/B with mk2 pads, so that we can continue to have this debate.


----------



## spacemanspliff

How are your ears to be positioned for the Lambdas? I have mine near the top, in the middle.

 Also, my setup produces 20hz tone but the roll off appears to be around 35-40 hz? Is that about right? Seems a bit high. I was hoping for more around 30hz.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are your ears to be positioned for the Lambdas? I have mine near the top, in the middle._

 

I put my ears in the middle too. It really helps with proper instrument placement. When I put them at the bottom, I feel like the wind section is too high up.

 The problem with putting it in the middle is, unless you've got a fat head, "the seal" is broken at the bottom.


----------



## spritzer

To settle the Omega pad debate once and for all... some pics. Here are the insides of Mk1 pads which clearly shows that they are made out of leather. The grain is very fine so the back is very smooth as well. 





 For the sake of comparison, here is an SR-Omega earpad which is made out of high quality artificial leather. Notice the woven backside which looks a lot like the pleather used on the Mk2 pads.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations with the O2MKII system! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Tor at T.AA.Import is a really nice guy. I actually bought my SR-007BL/SRM-007t system from his as well. Personal visit at his store that is, since I am local._

 

Thanks! Tor is a really nice person to deal with. I would buy from him again. Unfortunatley a personal visit at his store would be not so easy to manage.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are your ears to be positioned for the Lambdas? I have mine near the top, in the middle._

 

I have mine in the middle as well, both horizontally and vertically. Does the trick for me..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To settle the Omega pad debate once and for all... some pics. Here are the insides of Mk1 pads which clearly shows that they are made out of leather. The grain is very fine so the back is very smooth as well. 

ImageShack - Image Hosting :: img1848mx6.jpg_

 

Yeah, just like how my SR-007 replacement pads look. I am 100% they are made of the real thing.
 Hope that end the debate!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, just like how my SR-007 replacement pads look. I am 100% they are made of the real thing.
 Hope that end the debate! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was told that when you put a soldering iron tip to Pleather it will melt. Real Leather will burn. You could try on a part that tucks under the phone if you are that curious.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was told that when you put a soldering iron tip to Pleather it will melt. Real Leather will burn. You could try on a part that tucks under the phone if you are that curious._

 

Not curious at all.
 Cause I have a spare pair of SR-007 pads, and have seen the same as 'spritzer'. So I am no doubt they are the real deal


----------



## Kraps

Than why would Stax claim them cheaper than they are?


----------



## The Monkey

smaller, less leather (if any)?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Than why would Stax claim them cheaper than they are?_

 

All Stax literature is littered with translation errors so this might be one of them. I did just check the English instructions manual I got from Stax a few years ago and it says "Earpads: Crafted from high quality natural leather for durability and comfort". There you have it, straight from the horses mouth.


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All Stax literature is littered with translation errors so this might be one of them. I did just check the English instructions manual I got from Stax a few years ago and it says "Earpads: Crafted from high quality natural leather for durability and comfort". There you have it, straight from the horses mouth._

 


 OK, then what about these PDF's, which look quite STAX to me


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...According to Stax PDF catalogs downloaded from their website, the Mk1 earpads are "high quality artificial leather" and the Mk2 earpads are:

 "Real leather (Sheep) used on a part coming into contact with the skin. High-quality leather used for the surrounding part."

 You can find the PDF files on the Stax website, or use these download links:

SR-007

SR-007 MkII

Earpad installation guide_

 

I do not have within reach the manual of the MK2's I just received but I will check on it tomorrow to see what it says about this.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kraps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, then what about these PDF's, which look quite STAX to me_

 

They are from Stax too but the left hand not speaking to the right one is common Stax practice, even back to the 60's. They've managed to mislabel one of their own phones and don't even acknowledge that their ever was a SR-2, though shortlived it was, even if there are published reviews of it. They even managed to order black earpads as spares for the 500+ SR-Omegas out there, a headphone that always had brown earpads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, here is a snapshot from the instructions manual:


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey, do the Lambdas roll off at 40hz or what? I am kind of concerned about the low end being a bit light. That, and the stereo downstairs bass rattles my Stax membranes. Sigh. If only I had an isolated room.


----------



## Sherwood

I definitely don't think there's much usable bass below 40hz on most lambdas, no.


----------



## Elephas

1. The Mk2 pads are definitely leather. 100%, no doubt about it.

 2. The pleather section on the Mk2 pads wrap into the housings. There's only a small strip visible next to the housing, where you can see the seams. For the purpose of wrapping into the housings and holding the pad in place, I think pleather probably works better than leather, because it doesn't stretch as easily and become too loose. Given this design requirement, and that the Mk1 pads are all one type of material, it is likely that the Mk1 pads are artificial and not real leather.

 3. The Mk2 pads feel better than Mk1 pads. Smoother, softer and higher-quality. 

 4. The Mk1 pads are not bad. But they're not great either. They're a bit better than the pleather pads on the SR-404 or 4070. They're also quite smooth and soft. But they're not as high-quality as the Mk2 pads. Nor as good as the leather pads of other headphones such as the L3000 and W5000.

 5. If the Mk1 pads are real leather, they're not high-quality leather, only mediocre quality at best. They don't breathe as easily as the Mk2 pads, and induce clammyness and a humid feel when worn in a warm environment.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, do the Lambdas roll off at 40hz or what? I am kind of concerned about the low end being a bit light. That, and the stereo downstairs bass rattles my Stax membranes. Sigh. If only I had an isolated room._

 

Measuring headphone frequency response is problematic. Stax will claim a resposne below this region. I wouldn't assume all lambdas have the same ferquency response. I find the 404 to have somewhht lower bass than my Lambda Nova, but both are pretty good.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, do the Lambdas roll off at 40hz or what? I am kind of concerned about the low end being a bit light. That, and the stereo downstairs bass rattles my Stax membranes. Sigh. If only I had an isolated room._

 

I think the Lambdas have pretty good low-end extension. Don't forget that the ear is not that sensitive to true low bass.







Fletcher-Munson Curve Explanation


----------



## Currawong

My vintage SR5NB Gold + Fitz modified driver/amp arrived today (the sale prior to the one I bought it on, with links to pic is here), so now I can say I've officially joined the Stax club (though ironically not via a local purchase considering I live in Stax-land). Now jazz via my Northstar sounds damn good...


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Lambdas have pretty good low-end extension. Don't forget that the ear is not that sensitive to true low bass.






Fletcher-Munson Curve Explanation_

 

Not enough low end though. For music? Certainly. However, my main usage is for HT and games with lots of low end. So I placed my av123 rocket 550MKIIs in a "headphone" configuration. One on each side of me, about two feet from me. The result is stellar with a small but tidy sound stage with plenty of punch and detail. I am using my 12" sub. The problem was that the sub rattled the membranes of the Stax so it did not really work.

 I sold my Lambdas and got the Santa deal on av123 for two 525 mini monitors, a Gizmo amp and nice speaker cables for $350 shipped. That is for our small tv room.

 I also got the Future Sonics Atrio m5 revision 2 for portable use. Those have tons of bass. I guess, in the end, that I am a basshead lol.


----------



## Sherwood

So you are no longer a member of team Stax, spliff?


----------



## progo

I'm tempted by dynamic forces again. I reasoned the next big step up would be an SR-404 with a good SS amp or a LNS+T1S but you'd get a mint K1000 for the same price.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm tempted by dynamic forces again. I reasoned the next big step up would be an SR-404 with a good SS amp or a LNS+T1S but you'd get a mint K1000 for the same price. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't forget you need an amplifier for the K1000 as well.
 That said, I went for the K1000 this summer and don't regret it at all. Its a really great headphone imo, and I rank it higher than the SR-404.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, do the Lambdas roll off at 40hz or what? I am kind of concerned about the low end being a bit light. That, and the stereo downstairs bass rattles my Stax membranes. Sigh. If only I had an isolated room._

 

I can hear 25Hz tones quite easily in my 303's and I can even hear 20Hz, but there is something strange going on, as if there is also on overtone higher than that, combined with the really low 20 or 25 Hz sound. Anyway, hearing tones is one thing, hearing musical information is, for whatever reason, another thing. 

 On the Dead Can Dance's "Into the Labyrinth", on the first track there are some tympany sounds somewhere around min. 2:30 - 3:00. They are quite low, if I set my Mackies to cut below 49Hz they are very much diminished, if I let the speakers extend down to the claimed 37Hz (-3dB) the tympany are very loud in my loudspeaker setup / room (please note that when checking with test tones, the bass actually starts to roll off in my speakers around 35 Hz and I can still hear 32 Hz easily). In my 303's, I can easily hear the tympany sounds and I suspect my cheap CD player has a tendency to roll off the bottom octave. When I had the Apogee Mini-Dac, especially when using the minijack out, these sounds were very strong, quite impressive in the 303's.

 On the other hand, a friend of mine tried I don't remember which Sting album in my Staxes and he claimed there is a very low sound at the beginning of a certain track (the first, maybe?!) that he can hear in studio on a pair of big top of the line Genelecs and he couldn't hear it in my headphones...


----------



## Duggeh

A Thousand Years from the album Brand New Day? I can hear that low frequency sound on my headphones.


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you are no longer a member of team Stax, spliff?_

 

since there's a seat available on the bench i'll take it. oddly enough spaceman gave up a lambda and srd7 and that's what i just bought last night. i'm just waiting on the transaction to complete. they are a scant 60 miles from my home.

 my only other electrostatic equipment is a esp9 but previously owned and loved my magnepan smga's (which btw are terrible headphones)


----------



## spacemanspliff

Strangely enough, the speaker configuration that I am using sounds like an amazing pair of headphones. The sound stage is similar to headphones but no more headphone hair! lol

 I will miss the Lambdas though. They are great.


----------



## ri_toast

i'd guess that most people with headphones also have a reasonable hifi setup...i do. velodyne sub, paradigm in a 5.1
 to get equal sound you'd have to spend (sorry about your savings account) so much more and have to deal with room reflections; of course that can also work for you!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Ah yes the room. Well, by placing my speakers in such a fashion, I appear to have avoided most all of the room issues.


----------



## Sherwood

I am sorry to have to be the one to tell you this, but you are no longer welcome in the Stax forum, Spliff.

 Plz come bak with lamduz. kthxbai.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sorry to have to be the one to tell you this, but you are no longer welcome in the Stax forum, Spliff.

 Plz come bak with lamduz. kthxbai._

 

But, if he sold them to Blutarsky, then is he an okay guy? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Spiff is welcome any day in my book (even if he sold the Lambda pro I sold him).


----------



## Sherwood

That was an awfully circuitous route to Scott, huh? From Larry with love (by way of Roanoke).

 Just joshing, Spliff. Come by any time, but don't even try to tell me that W5000s are as fast as Stax.


----------



## powertoold

The lesson of the day is never to come in here to say you're getting rid of all your Stax equipment!


----------



## spacemanspliff

lol

 At least the Lambdas are going to a good home.

 Hey if I could afford an Omega 1 I would rather have that. Just working with what I have that does the job best. I need more boom boom.


----------



## Johnnie

Folks,

 This is my first real post to Head-fi. I'm a relatively new member of team Stax, having acquired my system a few months ago. It's a little intimidating posting in this thread given the wealth of knowledge and experience of all things Stax many possess. I listen exclusively to my Stax, given very young kids (who are supposed to be in bed asleep by 9pm) and a small house.

 My current rig consists of the SR-202 earspeakers and the SRM-006t amp. My source consists of a Marantz SA-15S SACD player. So far, I've been extremely happy with this humble system (relatively speaking). Prior to this, I was listening to a pair of HD-650s, with a Stefan cable and a SinglePower Supra. Given the almost fanatical devotion to Stax, I knew I needed to at least hear a basic system. Being relatively new and not being able to attend the Denver meet in July sponsered by SP, I decided to acquire a used system. That way, if I didn't like it, I could resell it at a slight loss. I was very fortunate to find a Stax SRS-2020 system for sale here and a very gracious seller in darkswordsman17. 

 Upon first hearing the Stax system, I was truly amazed. Having owned a pair of Martin Logan electrostatic speakers, I had a preconceived notion the Stax would have a similar sound signature. While they do possess some similarities, the Stax had none of the negative attributes that led me to sell my Martin Logans. The Stax seem so much more natural than the Martin Logans (admitedly, the Marties are extremely dependent upon room placement - a nonexistent issue with the Stax). I really like the signature of the SR-202s. I know some have commented the treble is not as extended or somewhat reticent compared to the older Lambda models and the 303 or 404 models, but to my ears, they have the perfect balance of treble energy, detail, soundstaging and warmth. They're not the last word in bass slam, which is okay since I mostly listen to jazz. 

 Since I've acquired the Stax, I've had no desire to listen to the Senns. Am I strange or is this common? 

 Haven taken the plunge, I did what many here do, I upgraded my amplifier. I was able to find a used SRM-006t on Audiogon for a reasonable price. For the money, it was a fairly significant improvement from the SRM-252 amplifier. That of course only satiated my desire to upgrade momentarily as I've recently ordered the Woo G.E.S. I added the parts upgrade available on the website, but am not sure it qualifies for "maxed" status. 

 I did a considerable amount of thinking about whether I wanted a G.E.S., an SRM-007t or something even more substantial like the KGSS. In my mind, for the same amount of money, the G.E.S. was a clear winner over the SRM-007t; particularly because the G.E.S. self biases (I still can't figure out how to bias the Stax amps) and because the G.E.S. is so well built. My thinking with the KGSS or Blue Hawaii (or the upcoming RSA A-10) is that I would not need to upgrade in the future and would be set if I ever acquired the vaunted SR-007. 

 What's next - at some point I hope to attend a local meet (or Can Jam if the wife will allow) and listen to the SR-007. I'm almost afraid to as my bank account needs a break.

 I welcome any feedback, comments and/or criticism on my somewhat long and disjointed post. 

 Cheers,

 Johnnie.


----------



## The Monkey

^Welcome to Head-Fi and sorry about your wallet, Johnnie. You have certainly articulated many of the feelings I have about 'stats. I am in a similar situation in that I am very seriously considering the GES, but also am tempted by the KGSS or BHSE. 

 One of the nice things about the Stax setups is that you can still get such satisfaction from one of the more "modest" rigs. For example, my Lambda Signatures out of an SRM1/MK2 was enough to make me sell most of my dynamic cans.

 I look forward to your impressions of the GES. Also, do try to get to a meet, I think you would really enjoy it.

 EDIT: As for what's next, yes, the 007 is inevitable.


----------



## Deadneddz

SR-007s sitting in my room, and BHSE deposit made.

 Now if I only didnt hear the SR-007....

 nah, they are seriously wonderful. I cant wait.....and its going to be a while.

 The only thing that bothers me is that i really shouldnt be spending money like this, Im 20 and still paying my way through college, im constantly thinking, "should i be spending this kind of money?" But one can never go back after they've heard the SR-007 in full glory!

 Oh well, its what i love,
 and its what im going to do.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a little intimidating posting in this thread given the wealth of knowledge and experience of all things Stax many possess._

 

Intimidating? No way. See the 12 posts before yours by those clowns.

 Er, ah, I didn't really mean it, guys, please don't hurt me.

  Quote:


 Since I've acquired the Stax, I've had no desire to listen to the Senns. Am I strange or is this common? 
 

I sometimes listen to the HD650, usually when I'm about to go to sleep.

  Quote:


 Being relatively new and not being able to attend the Denver meet in July sponsered by SP, I decided to acquire a used system. 
 

It seemed to be a good meet. My ES-1 was there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 if I ever acquired the vaunted SR-007. 
 

Mk2! Don't forget the Mk2!


----------



## progo

I lost all the will to listen to HD650s when I bought my SR202s. And I sold my little dynamic amp with them. Stax is just so perfect, even the most basic model.


----------



## Ricey20

I sold all my dynamic cans that aren't being lent out to people, and traded my Supra XLR for a Woo GES Maxed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Still waiting for that KGBH SE >.>


----------



## Kraps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Mk2! Don't forget the Mk2!_


----------



## Johnnie

Everyone - thanks for the words of encouragement. Yes, this is not an inexpensive hobby (particularly when compared to my wife's hobby of knitting). It's nowhere near as expensive, however, as some of my friends' other hobbies. I have a friend who's an avid road biker. What he'll spend on a pair of wheels I could by a new pair of SR-007s with some change left over. 

 I've owned several loudspeaker based systems, none of which connected me to the music like the cans do. If I had to live with the HD-650s, I could easily do so. Compared to the Stax, however, there's no comparison (to my ears at least). 

 I'll post my impressions of the Woo GES once I've had some time with the amp and hopefully will be able to provide some meaningful comparisons with my SRM-006t. Jack indicated he thought it would be around a four to five week build time, so I'll patiently bide my time until then.


----------



## Sherwood

Johnnie,

 Welcome! You are lucky, in that the front range has a wealth of excellent gear, especially Stax related. We have both flavors of O2s, HE60s, ESP950s, quite a few lambdas, a maxed Woo GES, an upcoming BHSE, and lots of good sources. Larry (HeadphoneAddict), Steve (ASR), Jackson (Luminette), NaamanF and many others all live from S. Colorado Springs to N. Denver, and meet frequently. Next time the Colorado crew gets together I'll shoot you a PM, and you can come along for the ride. I'd love to hear your SRM-006t against my SRM-T1.

 If we decide to include Mikhail in our little shindig, we add a wealth of working amps, and he likes to bring his HE90s along.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnnie,

 Welcome! You are lucky, in that the front range has a wealth of excellent gear, especially Stax related. We have both flavors of O2s, HE60s, ESP950s, quite a few lambdas, a maxed Woo GES, an upcoming BHSE, and lots of good sources. Larry (HeadphoneAddict), Steve (ASR), Jackson (Luminette), NaamanF and many others all live from S. Colorado Springs to N. Denver, and meet frequently. Next time the Colorado crew gets together I'll shoot you a PM, and you can come along for the ride. I'd love to hear your SRM-006t against my SRM-T1.

 If we decide to include Mikhail in our little shindig, we add a wealth of working amps, and he likes to bring his HE90s along._

 

Thanks Sherwood. I'd love to attend the next get together of the Colorado crew and take my SRM-006t to it. It's great having so many fellow team Stax members in your own back yard.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007s sitting in my room, and BHSE deposit made.

 Now if I only didnt hear the SR-007....

 nah, they are seriously wonderful. I cant wait.....and its going to be a while.

 The only thing that bothers me is that i really shouldnt be spending money like this, Im 20 and still paying my way through college, im constantly thinking, "should i be spending this kind of money?" But one can never go back after they've heard the SR-007 in full glory!

 Oh well, its what i love,
 and its what im going to do._

 

Have you heard them underamp'ed enough or even compared to know if they even sound that much better? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 You know, I'm doubting you have a "good source", so when people in here will probably recommend you get a decent source before spending so much on the BHSE.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-007s sitting in my room, and BHSE deposit made.

 Now if I only didnt hear the SR-007....

 nah, they are seriously wonderful. I cant wait.....and its going to be a while.

 The only thing that bothers me is that i really shouldnt be spending money like this, Im 20 and still paying my way through college, im constantly thinking, "should i be spending this kind of money?" But one can never go back after they've heard the SR-007 in full glory!

 Oh well, its what i love,
 and its what im going to do._

 

The way I see it is, why not own equipment of this caliber now when your hearing is at it peak. I got my first Omegas when I was 21 and it was definitely the right call. Just remember... it's all down hill from now on...


----------



## Deadneddz

I've heard them both underamped, and amped well(Blubliss's ES2, APL source.)

 They can show what potential they have in an underamped source, but it took a great amp(Andy's ES2) to make me realise everything that Spritzer has talked about when describing the O2 MKIs. Other than that most people will agree that the Orpheus is the superior phone, but i do not think so when the O2 is properly amped.

 Im looking at the Emm Labs CDSA vs Esoteric X-01, which is why i bumped the emm labs vs esoteric sound signature thread.

 Like you hinted at, theres no way im getting the BHSE without getting an exceptional source. I told you im trying to go all the way on this one.

 Just not $100,000 all the way though...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you heard them underamp'ed enough or even compared to know if they even sound that much better? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You know, I'm doubting you have a "good source", so when people in here will probably recommend you get a decent source before spending so much on the BHSE._


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im looking at the Emm Labs CDSA vs Esoteric X-01, which is why i bumped the emm labs vs esoteric sound signature thread.

 Like you hinted at, theres no way im getting the BHSE without getting an exceptional source. I told you im trying to go all the way on this one.

 Just not $100,000 all the way though...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So you're hesitant about the BHSE at $5K, and now you're thinking about a source at $7K+? Don't you love the high-end forum?!


----------



## Deadneddz

no im not hesitant about getting the BHSE, as ive already put a deposit on it.

 I was just trying to say that i wouldnt have gotten the BHSE in the first place without knowing that i would definately need to invest in a good source.


----------



## Deadneddz

Its hard to get comparisions between the CDSA and X-01, because all impressions ive read come from sourcing loudspeaker systems.

 I wanna know how these sources sound on headphones!!! Not speakers!!!

 The only post ive read is that from Neil in the APL forum about how he prefers emm labs as a headphone source to the esoteric. I guess because of the more intimate presentation compared to the more analytical sources like esoteric...on headphones at least.

 But hes already way past that, and like Andy, has the NWO 3.0, which is basically an expensive modified Esoteric. I listened to the NWO 3.0 and i love it, but its waaaay to expensive for me. Im no doctor...

 I guess the only way to find out is to auditition them, i live near the LA area so there should'nt be any problem finding places to audition both.


----------



## eruditass

so i have some stax that came with tons of dust on them. is it ok to run an air compressor and shoot some compressed air gently through the diaphragms? I feel like a l ot got on there.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But hes already way past that, and like Andy, has the NWO 3.0, which is basically an expensive modified Esoteric. I listened to the NWO 3.0 and i love it, but its waaaay to expensive for me. Im no doctor..._

 

The older APL Denon players are very nice and there are a lot of great DAC's out there that will do the Mk1 justice. My APL has been mostly unused since I sold my BH and I've just been using my computer rig with a DAC that costs about 500$ used and even less if you buy it as a kit. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so i have some stax that came with tons of dust on them. is it ok to run an air compressor and shoot some compressed air gently through the diaphragms? I feel like a l ot got on there._

 

If you want to destroy them then that would be a great way to do it as it will shred the diaphragm to pieces. All dust should have been stopped by the dust covers from entering the drivers so just disassemble the phones and clean them, piece by piece. I soak most (non electrical) parts in soap and warm water and then give them a good scrub with a brush. This works for most phones but some require hard core cleaning.


----------



## krmathis

Johnnie. Welcome to Head-Fi!


----------



## padam

Sorry for the noob question, but I just noticed that my LNS has a hump inside the foam on the middle (see pic). Is this normal?

 Also there is a quite a lot of noise if I turn up the volume on the amp but it doesn't change if I change the volume on the PC. This is because I use a crappy interconnect cable (it is strictly a temporary solution) or I need to use a ground wire? If yes, how to do that? Thanks and sorry if these were too basic questions


----------



## krmathis

^ Yeah, thats perfectly normal.
 So do my SR-404, 4070, and my previous SR-Lambda Pro (the one with replaced pads)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also there is a quite a lot of noise if I turn up the volume on the amp but it doesn't change if I change the volume on the PC. This is because I use a crappy interconnect cable (it is strictly a temporary solution) or I need to use a ground wire? If yes, how to do that? Thanks and sorry if these were too basic questions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There is probably some dirt or debris inside the pot causing that noise so you need some contact cleaner and spray it inside the volume pot and then it it should go away. Could be a bad IC too but pots do normally develop this problem over time.


----------



## eruditass

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 If you want to destroy them then that would be a great way to do it as it will shred the diaphragm to pieces. All dust should have been stopped by the dust covers from entering the drivers so just disassemble the phones and clean them, piece by piece. I soak most (non electrical) parts in soap and warm water and then give them a good scrub with a brush. This works for most phones but some require hard core cleaning._

 

thank you, good thing they were designed with one! 

 ah so I took a picture of it before I did it but not I didn't take one separating out the ordering of the stuff. So on a SR-5, does it go driver, rubber o-ring, black mesh, yellow foam, yellow foam's white grate facing out, then the metal grill?

 in addition, does it matter which way the driver is oriented? there is a red mark, but they looked different on both sides. lastly, one of my driver seems notably bumpier than the other :\

 I soaked the foam, and cleaned the wires/contacts! the wires were all black.


----------



## spritzer

The driver can be rotated in any way that fits the best so no worries there. It's been quite a while since I last assembled a SR-5 but I'd put the rubber o-ring in front of the driver to seal the baffle, then comes the yellow mineral wool facing what way you choose and last is the woven nylon dustcover next to the metal grill at the back.


----------



## ericj

Over on the ortho thread, wualta asked how my attempts to install a tripath amp board _inside_ my SRD-X were going. About a week ago. And i dodged the question. 

 So, rather than dent the SNR over there even more, I thought I'd finally give an update over here. 

 The board out of the Psyclone Nodus PSC99 psp dock ($15 + $6 ship) will pretty certainly fit once the EQ ("speaten filter") end of the board is chopped off. But i haven't actually tried it yet. 

 The 14VDC supply that comes with the PSC99 even has a barrel the right size for the DC jack on the back of the SRD-X.

 I have three of these big silly PSP docks, just in case i manage to kill the amp board before it makes it in there. 

 As it turns out, the first one i extracted and modified (you have to cut some traces and add some jumpers to avoid the EQ circuit and untether it from the noisy preamp board) ended up with one channel muted. but i didn't try it before i chopped off the EQ circuit so I'm not certain if cutting off the EQ end requires adding a resistor or something. 

 So today i pulled another board and modified it but didn't chop off the EQ end. It works fine and drives two very dubious fullrange pioneer bookshelf speakers about as well as they've ever been driven. It's weird how the tripath chip doesn't even get warm. 

 I still haven't traced out the SRD-X bias circuit but I'm starting to wonder if it's similar to the self-bias circuit in the SRD-7sb. That would explain the presence of the small transformer tucked in between the output transformers. If I'm really lucky, there won't be anything exotic to it, and I'll be able to easily replicate it on perfboard. Or maybe it's even it's own little corner on the existing board in the SRD-X, and i can just chop it off and tuck it out of the way somewhere. 

 The input impedance of the TA-2021b (turns out this isn't a TA-2024, but the somewhat better TA-2021b) is only about 20kohms, which means that the volume control pot on the SRD-X will cause issues with the frequency response on the amp unless i buffer the input, say with an inline opamp in unity gain. So there's going to be some perfboard in there anyway. 

 My guess, from how well the ta2021b was driving the silly pioneer fullranges, is that I won't have a reason to change the gain resistors on the amp board. 

 I do want to compare the impedance of the primaries on the output transformers with the impedance of the speakers in the PSC-99. Currently I have no idea on either of them, but if there's 4 ohm speakers in the PSC-99 and 8 ohm primaries, I may want to change the value of one of the capacitors in the output network for a more perfect frequency response. 

 So, confidence is still high, but i'm only a little ways into this project. I'll post the bias circuit schematic and other details when i figure it out. 

 Depending on how things go, i may end up with one or two fully working tripath boards that'll need homes. If the marketing on the box is truthful, the board was designed for Psyclone by Sonic Impact - so it's basically a slightly better (few more watts) t-amp without the preamp section, or enclosure. Which are both easy to add.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also there is a quite a lot of noise if I turn up the volume on the amp but it doesn't change if I change the volume on the PC. This is because I use a crappy interconnect cable (it is strictly a temporary solution) or I need to use a ground wire? If yes, how to do that? Thanks and sorry if these were too basic questions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I am not sure if I understand the problem correctly, but if I do the solution is simple. You should control volume from the amp and have the volume set to MAX on the PC. If you set the volume at a low level from the PC the output signal is too low and you get hiss from the amp. Nothing special for Stax and same for all connections PC -> amp.


----------



## Oublie

Which is the best of the portable stax systems? or are there better iem/dynamic phones for the job.

 Santa Claus brought me an iTouch for Christmas! really please with it but my god do the headpones suck so which of the stax would suit best. I'm not expecting better than my home setup but are there any half decent ones or should i go with something else.

 thanks.


----------



## donunus

003 maybe


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which is the best of the portable stax systems?_

 

To be fair there are only one portable Stax system out there.
 The SR-001MK2, consisting of the S-001MK2 earphone and the SRM-001 amplifier. Stax SR-001MK2






 I found the sound quality to be really nice. Not quite on par with full size Stax'en, but then again very few (if any) portable system do so. I had some issues with wearing discomfort, but others live happily with them.
 Definitely worth checking out.


----------



## Oublie

thanks guys, i thought there was an older battery powered amp as well. so i thought i'd ask. Will i still get the audio quality or would i be better off with a set of dynamics and amp? Not because i particularly want to go that route but sound quality matters more than brand to me.

 I was reading some of the portable amp reviews but i couldn't find anything comparing the stax to the standard dynamic amp setups.

 The alternative of course is to use a ghetto blaster with one of my selfbiasing srd7's and my lambdas


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks guys, i thought there was an older battery powered amp as well. so i thought i'd ask._

 

You're right. There were one portable amplifier in the past.
 The SRM-X Pro (with BPS-600 battery pack), and perhaps even counting the SRD-X (Pro). The SRM-X Pro is pretty much impossible to get ahold off though, as I have been searching for 1 year++ without luck. You would also need to find a matching portable headphone. An SR-X/MK3 Pro maybe?

  Quote:


 Will i still get the audio quality or would i be better off with a set of dynamics and amp? 
 

You will get the (Stax) audio quality.
 I would take one over a dynamic system any day, sound wise. But as with full size headphones some prefer electrostatics and some prefer dynamics. In the end its all up to your preferences.


----------



## SoliloCey

Hey I was thinking of getting some SR404's off ebay, can someone describe what they are like, hows the sounstage, the bass, does it empahsize over the mid-range, etc.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Over on the ortho thread, wualta asked how my attempts to install a tripath amp board inside my SRD-X were going. About a week ago. And i dodged the question. 

 So, rather than dent the SNR over there even more, I thought I'd finally give an update over here. 

 The board out of the Psyclone Nodus PSC99 psp dock ($15 + $6 ship) will pretty certainly fit once the EQ ("speaten filter") end of the board is chopped off. But i haven't actually tried it yet. 

 The 14VDC supply that comes with the PSC99 even has a barrel the right size for the DC jack on the back of the SRD-X.

 I have three of these big silly PSP docks, just in case i manage to kill the amp board before it makes it in there. 

 As it turns out, the first one i extracted and modified (you have to cut some traces and add some jumpers to avoid the EQ circuit and untether it from the noisy preamp board) ended up with one channel muted. but i didn't try it before i chopped off the EQ circuit so I'm not certain if cutting off the EQ end requires adding a resistor or something. 

 So today i pulled another board and modified it but didn't chop off the EQ end. It works fine and drives two very dubious fullrange pioneer bookshelf speakers about as well as they've ever been driven. It's weird how the tripath chip doesn't even get warm. 

 I still haven't traced out the SRD-X bias circuit but I'm starting to wonder if it's similar to the self-bias circuit in the SRD-7sb. That would explain the presence of the small transformer tucked in between the output transformers. If I'm really lucky, there won't be anything exotic to it, and I'll be able to easily replicate it on perfboard. Or maybe it's even it's own little corner on the existing board in the SRD-X, and i can just chop it off and tuck it out of the way somewhere. 

 The input impedance of the TA-2021b (turns out this isn't a TA-2024, but the somewhat better TA-2021b) is only about 20kohms, which means that the volume control pot on the SRD-X will cause issues with the frequency response on the amp unless i buffer the input, say with an inline opamp in unity gain. So there's going to be some perfboard in there anyway. 

 My guess, from how well the ta2021b was driving the silly pioneer fullranges, is that I won't have a reason to change the gain resistors on the amp board. 

 I do want to compare the impedance of the primaries on the output transformers with the impedance of the speakers in the PSC-99. Currently I have no idea on either of them, but if there's 4 ohm speakers in the PSC-99 and 8 ohm primaries, I may want to change the value of one of the capacitors in the output network for a more perfect frequency response. 

 So, confidence is still high, but i'm only a little ways into this project. I'll post the bias circuit schematic and other details when i figure it out. 

 Depending on how things go, i may end up with one or two fully working tripath boards that'll need homes. If the marketing on the box is truthful, the board was designed for Psyclone by Sonic Impact - so it's basically a slightly better (few more watts) t-amp without the preamp section, or enclosure. Which are both easy to add._

 

I could probably give one a good home, if it includes help with integrating it into one of my 2 SRD-X, in exchange for moolah on my end...


----------



## eruditass

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The driver can be rotated in any way that fits the best so no worries there. It's been quite a while since I last assembled a SR-5 but I'd put the rubber o-ring in front of the driver to seal the baffle, then comes the yellow mineral wool facing what way you choose and last is the woven nylon dustcover next to the metal grill at the back._

 

definitely sounds right logically, but I did find a picture I took before:





 Perhaps the PO just put it back wrong, the dust seemed to get trapped all in the wool.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could probably give one a good home, if it includes help with integrating it into one of my 2 SRD-X, in exchange for moolah on my end..._

 

Yeah - plus i may want to send mine your way for comparison and review . . . 

 Minor SRD-X++ update - i have a fully working tripath board now and i've opened up the SRD-X again to check for fit and prod at the bias supply a bit. I've discovered that the tripath board is actually small enough that, with some minor sheet metal nibbling and light sanding of the long edges of the board, I could actually mount this thing flat on the bottom of the internal frame of the SRD-X, heatsink it to the frame (it really only just barely gets warm anyway), and then put the preamp circuit and bias supply on a board almost the size of the existing SRD-X board with plenty of room to spare. 

 The SRD-X bias supply is not self-bias - looks more like the sort of voltage multiplier found in later DC powered SRM units. Seems to be one transistor driving AC into a step-up transformer followed by rectification. Stax was nice enough to label the legs of the transistor and print the values of resistors.


----------



## ericj

SRD-X transformer primaries are 1.3 ohm. Stax padded them up to 6 ohms with 4.7 ohm resistors. For my purposes, i may want to shoot for closer to 4 ohms as it seems that 4-ohm loads are closer to ideal for the tripath boards. 

 Also of note, the chip amps in the SRD-X are AC-coupled to the transformers through 1000uf caps, for f0 ~23hz. Also single-ended. Tripath board is of course dc-coupled bridged output.


----------



## AudioCats

just curious....how big is a SRD-x?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_definitely sounds right logically, but I did find a picture I took before:





 Perhaps the PO just put it back wrong, the dust seemed to get trapped all in the wool._

 

I've seen them built with two dust covers so there could have been two originally. The SR-X were normally like that but it's impossible to tell if anybody has opened them up before. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just curious....how big is a SRD-x?_

 

Slightly smaller then the SRD-7's but longer


----------



## AudioCats

and SRD-7 is like a SRD-6, except about twice as tall and a little longer?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and SRD-7 is like a SRD-6, except about twice as tall and a little longer?_

 

Yup, something like that.


----------



## AudioCats

hummmm, the SRD-x is bigger than I thought. 

 why hasn't anybody integrated a LM3886 (if you don't recognize that part #, it is the chip in a "gainClone") into a SRD-6? just mount reservoir caps and power transformer on top, and use the selector knob for volumn control. Then slap on two pieces of heatsinks on the sides to cool it ---> One small box, ready to drive both your desktop speaker and your desktop 007.


----------



## ericj

My SRD-X measures 19cm long, 9.5cm tall, 6cm wide 

 The tripath board from the psc99 is about 74mm * 48mm. Which is substantially smaller than the original srd-x board, but that also includes the bias supply and doesn't need the input buffered.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hummmm, the SRD-x is bigger than I thought. 

 why hasn't anybody integrated a LM3886 (if you don't recognize that part #, it is the chip in a "gainClone") into a SRD-6? just mount reservoir caps and power transformer on top, and use the selector knob for volumn control. Then slap on two pieces of heatsinks on the sides to cool it ---> One small box, ready to drive both your desktop speaker and your desktop 007._

 


 Well, that does include room for 8 C-cells, making it the first luggable stax amp. I think. 

 Just strap it into your backpack and away you go!

 As for the SRD-6, you could do what you suggest for an effect very much like an SRD-X. What I'm doing is just the small & efficient approach to a box that was already built with those intentions.


----------



## spritzer

It really is the battery compartment that makes the SRD-X this big so a modern li-ion based solution could be much smaller.


----------



## ericj

One more note. The original SRD-X board is 81mm * 54mm at it's widest points (there's a notch where the wires from the volume pot go through). It i sits on top of the walls of the internal frame, which are 8mm tall. There's some play in how it all fits together - which makes it annoying to reassemble. 

 So, allowing for the height of the tripath board - about 18mm at it's tallest - means i can cut out a 54mm * 70mm rectangle of perfboard and start placing components. For the preamp buffer anyway. 

 There's about a 85mm * 52mm * 30mm void to work in. So if someone wanted to get really ambitious, a simple usb dac could probably be squeezed in as well. But that would be silly. 

 Edit: for giggles i checked. The board in my decidedly mid-fi (but still better than simple cirrus chips) M-Audio Sonica is 75mm * 35mm * 15mm. And i could shorten it to 70mm easily. It would absolutely fit. Especially as there is room for the preamp board to face it's components forward. 

 Although i am considering installing RCA and stereo-mini jacks on the back in place of the coiled cable w/ quarter inch plug. The rear void is about 50mm * 35mm * 20mm - but the DC jack is in the middle of that, and I have no intention of moving it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

You could just re-case it all. Fitz did that once with an SRD-X that he cleaned up.


----------



## ericj

Is that the 'fitz amp' I've been hearing about? 

 I kinda like the formfactor. And yeah i may use it with batteries now and then. I don't want to re-case it. 

 Enclosure work is my least favorite part of the job.


----------



## SoliloCey

hmmm is there any STAX SR404 owners here that can tell me what the soundstage, mid-range, treble etc. is like?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmm is there any STAX SR404 owners here that can tell me what the soundstage, mid-range, treble etc. is like?_

 

Start here and search around.


----------



## SoliloCey

thanks monkey, is there a rep system so i can rep you or something?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks monkey, is there a rep system so i can rep you or something?_

 

You're welcome. And the only other thanks necessary, if at all, here is to post your own impressions to add to the collective body of knowledge.


----------



## powertoold

I read somewhere that Darthnut said that the difference between his T2 and other stat amps (perhaps even other Stax amps) is subtle, and the only improvements are mostly in imaging.

 How does this fit into the scheme of things? If the T2 is supposed to be as good or better than the BH and probably BHSE, then why would there be such a subtle difference. I thought it was supposed to improve bass impact, tightness, and whatnot.

 I hope Headamp ships the BHSEs soon so we can have some direct comparisons with the 717!

 I guess my other question is how can a single guy (Kevin Gilmore) design an amp that is as good as or better than the one created by a company that made the headphones. Is it because the BH would be too expensive for Stax to mass produce and it'd cost more than the T2?


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the T2 is supposed to be as good or better than the BH and probably BHSE, then why would there be such a subtle difference. ...
 I guess my other question is how can a single guy (Kevin Gilmore) design an amp that is as good as or better than the one created by a company that made the headphones._

 

There are a few distortions here, powertoold.

 First off, I am unaware of anyone who has ever directly compared a T2 and a BH or BHSE, so I have no idea where you got the information that the T2 is "supposed to be better". Gilmore designed the BHSE off the T2 circuit, but I don't believe he could ever get his hands on an actual T2 to test.

 As to the question of how one man could design an amp better than a whole company ... have you ever read a book written by a committee? Seen a painting done by 25 people? Amp designs are very technical, sure, but Dr. Gilmore is hardly incompetent. His design has been revised, tested, and honed by Justin at Headamp to create a better, more stable product than Dr. Gilmore envisioned. All that being said, it still costs $5000 direct from the manufacturer, with almost no advertising budget. Can you imagine what Stax would have to charge for a design like that, after marketing, distribution margins, further QC testing, etc.? Somewhere in the neighborhood of $15,000, minumum. That would surely be a tough sell. 

 Stax engineers may have been physically capable of designing something like the BHSE, but it would sink them to try and sell it. Justin is pretty strained by it, even with a comparatively small number of builds, deposits up front, and an uncertain shipping date. 

 If you would like to compare a T2 to a BHSE, please do so. Be aware you'll pay more and wait longer for the T2, though, and it likely will not sound as good.


----------



## powertoold

Here we go, I found the post by kintsaki:
  Quote:


 After all these years I am about to conclude that stats are a dead end. The famous midrange etch (even on O2)and the lack of realistic impact (punch) in mid to upper bass (especially on drums) despite their speed that allows one to clearly hear the metal timbre around the drum or the wood timbre around a bongo seriously limits the emotion associated with music. "Darthnut" has said that the improvement associated with a T2 amp is subtle and only helps on imaging. He even said that a low end amp with the O2 is better than the T2 with a Lambda Signature.

 I am giving stats a last chance and I will try the Jade.
 But if "Elephas" is right (and I do not see why not, but I hope to God he is) then even the Jade with its weakness on bass, lean midrange and its uncanny ability to bring out the flows as opposed to the nice things will signal the end for me, unless...

 ... the upcoming "omicronOmega" finally solves the bass, etch and the driving amp problems.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey I was thinking of getting some SR404's off ebay, can someone describe what they are like, hows the sounstage, the bass, does it empahsize over the mid-range, etc._

 

I have had these for several years. I think they are the most detailed phones of the Lambda line. Their bass is fairly good, with good detail and a deep bottom end, slightly better than my other Lambda the Nova. They have somewhat of an upper mid-range peak which I find makes them better for Classical/jazz than rock/pop. Still they work well in the latter category but can get edgy. In truth the problem is not so much the phones as the treble boost on a lot of rock/pop.

 Like most stats these are very transparent phones, revealing everything in the sound chain, so you have to give serious thought as to how to drive them. I use Stax amps with some tweaking, footers, better power cords, Silver IC's and Silclear contact enhancer on everything. 

 I see that some like driving various Stax with a Stax transformer, hooked up to a power amp. I would be rather interested to hear that some day with the 404. The reports are a decrease in detail but an increase in dynamics. The catch is that it's very difficult to get the old Stax high bias tranformers (the low bias are a dime a dozen). I believe there is another maker for a suitable transformer though.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here we go, I found the post by kintsaki:_

 


 All that post says to me is that the 'phones are more important than the amp. I definitely don't read it as saying that the T2 is better than the BH. Darth Nut's review is and was a revelation, certainly, but he might have felt differently if the BH was available when he wrote his opus. 

 Then again, he might not have. I've not heard a BH or a T2, so I can't say. 

 I can definitely say that I like the O2 plenty, however, and never feel a need to return to dynamics, unlike Kinsaki. Seeing the FR charts for the O2 convinced whatever little part of me was still a skeptic. They are all that and a bag of chips.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All that post says to me is that the 'phones are more important than the amp. I definitely don't read it as saying that the T2 is better than the BH._

 

Sorry if my post was vague! I wasn't saying the T2 is better than the BH. I read in this thread (think it was by spritzer) that the BH and T2 should be about as good as each other. If that is true and Darthnut is correct about the subtle differences, how can we justify that the O2 requires a lot more power? Does the T2 and BH not even provide enough power?


----------



## mark_h

Ordered my O2's today and a new Helikon. ETA 5th of January. Excited!

 Some nice pics of the T2
http://sucker.idlez.net/gallery/album120


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ordered my O2's today and a new Helikon. ETA 5th of January. Excited!

 Some nice pics of the T2
Sampler No.5 :: STAX SRM-T2_

 

Your first Stax?
 If so, then I welcome you to "Team Stax", and of course "Team O2".


----------



## Deadneddz

Darth Nuts review of the SR Omega and SR 007 O2 is quite amazing.

 Its these little details that he notices, that explains the exact feeling when ive listened to the Orpheus and O2s. The O2s are my personal favorite compared to the Orpheus and his review shows exactly why.

 I've never listened to the SR-Omega, but it seems that the SR-Omega and Orpheus share similar qualities. So im sure much of his opinions of the SR-Omega can be used to describe the Orpheus. Correct me if im completely wrong.

 Best thing about the Omega 2s to me?

 The precise and controlled headstage. Absolutely nothing is washed out or gives you that fuzzy feeling. Nothing is diffused or confuses you as to where these sounds are coming from. In short, everything sounds real. Incredibly real.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Darth Nuts review of the SR Omega and SR 007 O2 is quite amazing.

 Its these little details that he notices, that explains the exact feeling when ive listened to the Orpheus and O2s. The O2s are my personal favorite compared to the Orpheus and his review shows exactly why._

 

I also enjoyed his review. First, he recognized that reviews should only be made after a few months (or years) of ownership. Second, he didn't use ambiguous terms such as "musical", "PRAT", "effortless", "transparent", etc., and if he did, he explained them with clearly identifiable and repeatable comparisons. For example, he said that the O2 can produce two images within millimeters of each other on the headstage without confusion. IMO, that's something great and can be easily used to compare with other headphones. 

 It seems a lot of reviews are filled with ambiguous and rushed descriptions that don't help much for comparisons or decision making. Most reviews and impressions (including my own) are too emotional, based on mood, or simply aren't properly done. I've found that it takes a lot of patience and testing to properly form opinions about any audio product. You really have to listen to the product at different times of the day / moods / settings / etc. This takes a lot of time, and even after four years, darthnut still thinks the O2 is amazing, and that says a lot. 

 One of these days, I'll try to get a hold of one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, for those interested, here's darthnut's 35 page PDF review:

http://home.comcast.net/~drnath/random/darthnut.pdf


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your first Stax?
 If so, then I welcome you to "Team Stax", and of course "Team O2". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes my first Stax, luckily my local Hifi dealer carries them so I have been trying various combinations, the two they didn't have in stock were the ones I wanted to try the most, the 4070 and the O2, so I bit the wallet and ordered the O2, the choice was made a little easier because the 4070 is more expensive in the UK at the moment. 

 Coming from the RS1's I instantly fell in love with the 4040 but knew I would only upgrade fairly quickly so rather than spend £ doing this I thought my best upgrade path was O2 then, after a while a 3rd party energizer, so thanks to all in the Stax thread for helping inform my decision! The best way I can describe my Stax experience so far is, it is like someone opened a window letting fresh air into a smoky room?!? I know that everyone has seen the O2's countless times but pics to follow when they arrive.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Darth Nuts review of the SR Omega and SR 007 O2 is quite amazing._

 

Yeah, its a really nice review. And a massive one at ~35 pages as well.
 I read it a couple of years back and am familiar and agreeing on what he write. Well worth a read for anyone interested in Stax..


----------



## Currawong

I read quite a bit of the Omega II after 4 years ownership review, and I reckon it's one of the most amazing reviews of anything I've read. I've found myself coming up short lately attempting to explain things well and am surprised to find such good descriptions of things on head-fi.

 By the way, my SR5NBs have all but totally displaced my regular headphones lately, they are unbelievable for what they cost. Fed by the Northstar is just the icing on the cake. Finally music sounds like...music!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I read quite a bit of the Omega II after 4 years ownership review, and I reckon it's one of the most amazing reviews of anything I've read. I've found myself coming up short lately attempting to explain things well and am surprised to find such good descriptions of things on head-fi.

 By the way, my SR5NBs have all but totally displaced my regular headphones lately, they are unbelievable for what they cost. Fed by the Northstar is just the icing on the cake. Finally music sounds like...music!_

 

As much as I like my SR-5NB which are like an electrostatic mix of the RS-1 or HD600, my stax cabled ESP950 are like an upgraded version of the SR-5NB.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I've been interested in the sr5-nb. actually, I've been interested in a "rock" electrostatic. is this a good option? the more I listen to my sr-lambdas, the more I love them, but for rock, there might be better options. are stax normal bias cans the only kind that can run on a normal bias energizer? I know the options increase greatly with pro-bias, but I love these normal lambdas.

 what is a fair price for a pair of sr5-nb with ribbon cable?


----------



## Sherwood

You can also run electrets off a normal bias amp. You can run pros, too, but they sound like crap.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can also run electrets off a normal bias amp. You can run pros, too, but they sound like crap._

 

yeah, I've read up on the electrets. sounds like more trouble then its worth. whats your go to can when you throw on some rock sherwood?


----------



## Sherwood

The best 'stat for Rock is the ESP-950, in my mind. Of course, it's a pro-bias.

 Of the normals, the SR-5NB isn't a bad choice at all.


----------



## Deadneddz

Darth Nuts review is not only interesting, but unique too.

 I dont think i've ever read a review on the SR-007 with the Stax T2 amp.

 This makes me very curious about impressions of O2 owners that own extremely high end amplification such as the ES2 or the soon to be released KGBH SE, compared to those who post impressions with amplification that might not be giving the power the O2s really need.

 Ive listened to the O2 MKIs out of the ES2 amp and it just makes so many reviews about the O2s ive read seem quite puzzling, because i could not find any of the complains or negatives that other have posted with lesser associated gear. 

 In comparison to the Orpheus, it doesnt have the amount of "air" or "headstage" but presents a much more precise, complete sound within its smaller "headstage" as darth nut states.

 This important trait in my opinion, is what makes the O2s an incredible transducer when paired with a very high end electrostatic amp. 

 What this does for the user in my opinion is very unique:
 This hobby is a search for us to be able to enjoy the music we love in the most emotional and pleasing way to us. I mean we buy equipment in hopes that it will bring more joy in listening to our music.

 As we progress in this hobby we seem to "train" ourselves to be able to pick apart the music in a more detailed way, perhaps because our associated equipment brings more and more refinement as we progress to something better and better. 

 This way of listening to music naturally brings us to a higher emotional level to the music we love.

 The O2s and a high end electrostatic amp is so unique in that it can bring "years of audiophile experience" to even the casual user. This has the ability to give even the casual user the emotional enjoyment that an audiophile has spent years to appreciate. And give the audiophile who has spent years something that will never be forgotten. The precision within its "headstage" is like finding the words even an audiophile could not come up with, and transfer this into an experience even a casual user could understand completely and in its entirety. 

 What a way to share what you love with those you love! And in the complete entirety you experience.

 Darth Nuts review is quite astonishing as he is able to put these experiences into words and explain the mechanics of what is happening in a way that many will be able to understand.

 I cant wait to hear some more impressions of the O2s as hopefully others will be able to expand on the words that darth nut has written. I also cant wait for my KGBH SE.

 Vincent


----------



## slwiser

I believe the main characteristics of the Omega headphone will always be there no matter which amp is used. This is based on having two nice electrostatic amps to listen to my SR-007MkII. I have the Headamp KGSS with blackgates and the Stax SRM-T1S. There are distinct differences between hearing both of these but the essential character of the SR-007MkII still is there in both. The KGSS is purer and more precise than the T1S but both can be very enjoyable with my SR-007MkII. I think some do a disservice to this great headphone and not only to this one when we somehow make others think that they fail to appreciate a certain headphone if only they had an extreme top amp to power them. Just one person's opinion.

 I also believe that the precise positioning given by the Omega is an advantage over simply a huge soundstage. This is one reason I gave up the W5000 to the Ultrasone Edition 9. The UE9 simply had much better presentation of the soundstage it had compared with the W5000 to me. Given the much bigger soundstage (or should I say head-stage) of the W5000 over the UE9, I much prefer the UE9 for it's presentation.

 The Omega's soundstage is huge compared with the UE9 but both bring to the stage the ability to position instruments unparalleled compared with any other headphones that I have heard for any period of time.


----------



## Deadneddz

I agree with you, and believe that the O2 can be enjoyed fully by a person who can understand and appreciate the sound regardless of amp quality.

 My previous post only reflects an opinion that i believe it takes a great amp to make those who may not be able to discern the incredible qualities of the O2 to fully appreciate it. All a great amp does is make it easier to understand the great sound the O2 can provide. Which is what high end equipment is suppost to do. Make music enjoyable without having to strain or analyze.


----------



## slwiser

^true..


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As much as I like my SR-5NB which are like an electrostatic mix of the RS-1 or HD600, my stax cabled ESP950 are like an upgraded version of the SR-5NB._

 

I was hoping you wouldn't say that...


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah, I've read up on the electrets. sounds like more trouble then its worth. whats your go to can when you throw on some rock sherwood?_

 

I have an SR-3, SR-5 (not NB), and SR-Gamma and the Gamma is far and away the best for most types of music including rock.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Gamma and the Gamma is far and away the best for most types of music including rock._

 

Never heard a gamma. How would you describe it?


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Never heard a gamma. How would you describe it?_

 

I enjoyed having the Gamma and the SRX-001. The SRX that I had was normal bias if I remember correctly while the Gamma had a Pro bias. The SRX-001 has a more clear precise presentation while the Gamma Pro has in my opinion a more balanced smoother, warmer sound. The SRX was preferred matched with a SRM-001 while the Gamma was preferred with the T1S. Swapping the amps with these provided a less enjoyable sound to me but still the basic sound profile held with both amps.


----------



## Deadneddz

To add another comment on my first one of darth nuts O2 review:

 His review is something that can definately change the approach people have on listening to their headphone gear.

 He clearly has understanding and self realization that headphones will project a sonic image that closely materializes in a near proximity to the head. Hense his term "headstage"

 This is the difference between a live event, headphones, speakers ect...

 With his genious analogy of the mountain picture, it can be understood, that just because the actual mountain is not in front of you, does not mean that a high resolution picture of that mountain cannot give you same sense of depth, detail, texture, and powerful feeling of seeing the mountain in real life.

 Why do we have beautiful pictures in our own homes? We may at times have had calendars that portrayed beautiful pictures, or gone to museums and admired beautiful art. This can give us truely deep appreciation even though it may not be the actual thing.

 His article may help those who cannot appreciate headphones because they're trying to compare the sounds to those of speakers, or "live events"

 The actual picture a headphone can create may be on a smaller scale, but its resolution can invoke the enjoyment we may get on a larger scale.

 Isnt that the reason we listened to headphones in the first place? We like that intimate performace which can give us the same emotional response as the real event.

 I think its amazing that these high end phones can draw pictures so beautiful and resolute in such an intimate way.

 When one can realise these statement, then i believe they can stop worrying about their gear and realise what they are really listening to...

 A beautiful mountain thats been shrunk into a small photograph, but has not lost a single detail that made it majestic in the first place....


 Vincent


----------



## slwiser

Well put and helpful in understanding the writeup.


----------



## spritzer

A bit late but here goes. I'm not aware of anyone that has compared the T2 and the BH and the complete detail of the T2 design isn't know. It's a sure thing that if I do manage to track down a T2 it will go a short vacation to Dr. Gilmore first to that it can be fully redrawn and the schematic posted. What we do know is that the T2 used an unregulated PSU and some of the amp design was a mixed bag i.e. some great ideas but some not so well implemented. For the price the T2's are fetching these days make the BHSE a no brainer as it is better built, better designed and will last a lot longer. 

 I've never found the difference between the Omegas on a sub-par amp and something like the BH to be subtle. Even the difference between the 007t and 717 is wast to my ears. The BH has more bass, treble, detail and the imaging is even more precise. Still I found the stock amp to lack the last word in power with the SR-007 (it is great with the SR-Omega though) which is why I'm determined to build a new one with better power supplies and better parts.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What we do know is that the BH used an unregulated PSU and some of the amp design was a mixed bag i.e. some great ideas but some not so well implemented._

 

Thanks for your explanation. I think you mean the T2


----------



## slwiser

What happens when we get that mythic amp and it proves the best headphones made for it come up short? The bar is always a changing, methinks. 

 Has anyone ever heard the amp that makes Omega sound as good as the mythology that has been built around it?


----------



## Deadneddz

ES2, i dont know how many people have heard the O2s on this amp, but i find it extremely hard to find any deficiency when hooked up to it, the drivers are just completely transformed. Equipment just does not exist at this level, as the emotional response to the music just completely takes over any thought of even approaching the evaluation of the associated equipment. I find it hard to have any need for something better.

 Some say the BHSE will be even better, well have to see...

 Edit:I thought you were saying has anyone heard ANY amp that makes the Omega sound as good as the mythology. My apologies, as i have never heard the Stax T2 amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been interested in the sr5-nb. actually, I've been interested in a "rock" electrostatic. is this a good option? the more I listen to my sr-lambdas, the more I love them, but for rock, there might be better options. are stax normal bias cans the only kind that can run on a normal bias energizer? I know the options increase greatly with pro-bias, but I love these normal lambdas.

 what is a fair price for a pair of sr5-nb with ribbon cable?_

 

I think my SR-Lambda are a better jazz/new age/classical stat and the SR-5NB are a better rock stat because of the more forward mids and good bass.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your explanation. I think you mean the T2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup, thanks for spotting that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ES2, i dont know how many people have heard the O2s on this amp, but i find it extremely hard to find any deficiency when hooked up to it, the drivers are just completely transformed. Equipment just does not exist at this level, as the emotional response to the music just completely takes over any thought of even approaching the evaluation of the associated equipment. I find it hard to have any need for something better.

 Some say the BHSE will be even better, well have to see...

 Edit:I thought you were saying has anyone heard ANY amp that makes the Omega sound as good as the mythology. My apologies, as i have never heard the Stax T2 amp._

 

The ES2 is just a more expensive ES1 with some "upgrades" to justify the extra cost but none of them tackle the major weakness of the circuit i.e. by getting rid of the plate resistors for each stage and installing CCS instead and splitting up the PSU section so that each of them is fed of a separate +/- supply. For 20k you shouldn't expect anything less IMHO but putting that aside I know that Andy liked the Sr-007 so much out of his amp that he bought a set.

 Whether the BHSE will be better is all down to personal preference. I for one have a strong preference for highly transparent, very powerful, DC-coupled amps that reveal all which they are fed, warts and all, but others like their amps to add just a bit of color.


----------



## cosmopragma

A fellow head-fier wants to purchase my spare SRD-7 Professional and I have no clue what's a fair price.
 Due to age there are signs of wear (scratches in the varnish) and it's slightly modded (renewed gold plated binding posts at the back and the speaker functionality is bypassed.The knob in front serves as an on/off switch).

 Does anyone here watch the market?
 I've payed ~$200 IIRC but that's quite some time ago.
 What's a fair price nowadays?


----------



## krmathis

^ The Pro bias SRD-7's (Pro and MK2) are highly sought after, and rarely come up for sale.
 As a note I put up my SRD-7 MK2 for $300 this summer, and it was sold in two (2) hours. So around that would be fair I think.


----------



## vvanrij

Yeah those things are definetly worth some, I would love to have one with a SR-X MKIII pro


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah those things are definetly worth some, I would love to have one with a SR-X MKIII pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry Victor,
 I cant help but playing on this and tease you a little bit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [size=xx-small]SRD-7 family:[/size]




 [size=xx-small]SR-X/MK3 Pro:[/size]


----------



## Oublie

I might be putting one of my srd7 mkII pro & normal self biasing adaptors up for sale soon. I bought 2 with plans to modify one but haven't got around to it. ill drop you a pm before it goes up for sale in case your interested.


----------



## DannyB

YGPM.


----------



## vvanrij

Excellent 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I love the SR-X so much, if the pro is even slightly better I will fall in love again.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A fellow head-fier wants to purchase my spare SRD-7 Professional and I have no clue what's a fair price.
 Due to age there are signs of wear (scratches in the varnish) and it's slightly modded (renewed gold plated binding posts at the back and the speaker functionality is bypassed.The knob in front serves as an on/off switch).

 Does anyone here watch the market?
 I've payed ~$200 IIRC but that's quite some time ago.
 What's a fair price nowadays?_

 

I bought a SRD 7 Pro this summer for $300 shipped, the srd 7mk 2 was at 325 shipped, although it was an older unit and slightly modded. The pro and nl bias outputs make them more desirable in my book.


----------



## Oublie

As i said earlier, I have a couple of srd7's and also an srm1 mk2. Strangely enough the srm isn't getting used because i prefer the sound from the srd's ! with a good amp and decent connections the srd rocks. Dynamics are great compared with teh srm1 and due to the fact that power to the headphones is only limited by the power of your amp they can really kick some butt with the capability to give voltage swings as high as those on the high end stax systems.

 From what i recall a 13 watt amp provides enough power to one of these things so you can imagine the kind of power and control a couple of mono block 100w tube amps can give. I use an old 30w rms NAD 3020 and when i was using the preamp stage the volume dial rarely passed 9 o'clock. These day i have bypassed the preamp stage completely and digitally alter the volume prior to resampling and output to my dac.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I love the SR-X so much, if the pro is even slightly better I will fall in love again._

 

The version that I made (Gamma Pro drivers in a regular SR-X Mk3 housing with a modified cable) sounds a lot better then the normal bias variant. They even have respectable bass even if it is a bit lean.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I love the SR-X so much, if the pro is even slightly better I will fall in love again._

 

I bet you will love the SR-X/MK3 Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The one I had, which were put together by 'spritzer', had SR-Alpha Pro drivers and a modified stock SR-X/MK3 cable. I bet it would sound even nicer with the flat SR-Alpha Pro cable, but it hurt the really vintage looks so I passed on it.

 The most obvious difference were the increased dynamics, especially in the lower frequencies. Over the SR-X/MK3 that is.


----------



## kintsaki

1) How is the SRD7 pro different than the SRD7? (apart from the bias voltage of course)

 2)Is there an XLR input to the pro?

 Over the last two months I bought two SRD7's at the advertised price.

 The first was from "billinkansas" for 40$ plus shipping to Greece with EMS (around 13 $). This unit was in fair condition and working fine.

 The second was from "JP11801". This was a bundle of a beautiful SIGMA set along with a DIY wood stand and a SRD7 for 500$ plus shipping. This unit was in perfect shape and sounded fine.

 "Yanni" and "Trafo" (are my friends) and can build me high quality SRD7 STD and PRO clones. 

 But I wanted to test my theory that the O2 may sound a lot better through an SRD7 PRO with a good power amp than the SR-717 before embarking on a project to build a high quality SRD7 PRO clone. The T amp (150$) review shown below by a famous Italian turn table designer that used it to drive his SIGMA in his reference test system had me thinking 
T-Amp - Class T integrated amplifier - [English]

 I bought a T 10 and realized that the O2 begins to show its teeth with the T 10 and a STD SRD7. I commissioned Yanni to convert the "billinKanasas" unit to a PRO bias but with the Holidays it is taking as long as with EMS China to ship me the Jade. The O2 sounds even better with Yanni's single ended amp.

 I also needed two amps for my "Amon Zeus" (see related thread on the headphones section ) dual headphone rig that was inspired by the upcoming "OmicronOmega" product(Sony code project, undertaken by Sony, Stax, and Lynx Corporations for their upcoming full rig)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1) How is the SRD7 pro different than the SRD7? (apart from the bias voltage of course)

 2)Is there an XLR input to the pro?_

 

1. Apart from the bias voltage, these are the differences I am aware of.
 * Two Pro outputs.
 * Black front panel, not silver as the other SRD-7's.
 * Different binding posts at the back.

 Unsure if there are any differences when it comes to transformers.

 2. No XLR input. It has cable ends, just like the other SRD-7's.


 Imo a nice speaker amplifier feeding an SRD-7 Pro can rival a direct drive amplifier, like the SRM-717, SRM-007t, ...
 Its very dependent on the power and details put out by the speaker amplifier though.


----------



## kintsaki

Thanks Krmathis

 So now we may finally see a trend toward "low cost high end" driving units for "stat" phones (for those of us who cannot afford a maxed SP or SEBH.

 Welcome to the "BlueGreen" (BGLC) edition of low cost high end series of amplifiers.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Imo a nice speaker amplifier feeding an SRD-7 Pro can rival a direct drive amplifier, like the SRM-717, SRM-007t, ...
 Its very dependent on the power and details put out by the speaker amplifier though._

 

Would this work with any pro bias energiser?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1) How is the SRD7 pro different than the SRD7? (apart from the bias voltage of course)

 2)Is there an XLR input to the pro?

 Over the last two months I bought two SRD7's at the advertised price.

 The first was from "billinkansas" for 40$ plus shipping to Greece with EMS (around 13 $). This unit was in fair condition and working fine.

 The second was from "JP11801". This was a bundle of a beautiful SIGMA set along with a DIY wood stand and a SRD7 for 500$ plus shipping. This unit was in perfect shape and sounded fine.

 "Yanni" and "Trafo" (are my friends) and can build me high quality SRD7 STD and PRO clones. 

 But I wanted to test my theory that the O2 may sound a lot better through an SRD7 PRO with a good power amp than the SR-717 before embarking on a project to build a high quality SRD7 PRO clone. The T amp (150$) review shown below by a famous Italian turn table designer that used it to drive his SIGMA in his reference test system had me thinking 
T-Amp - Class T integrated amplifier - [English]

 I bought a T 10 and realized that the O2 begins to show its teeth with the T 10 and a STD SRD7. I commissioned Yanni to convert the "billinKanasas" unit to a PRO bias but with the Holidays it is taking as long as with EMS China to ship me the Jade. The O2 sounds even better with Yanni's single ended amp.
_

 

The standard bias SRDs are a dime a dozen where I live.Not rare, and cheap as dirt.
 The Pro bias SRDs are highly sought after and *way* more expensive.I guess you've already read the answers regarding my questions about market value of those thingies.
 I remember having read somtime ago about DIY "energizers" based on Lundahl transformers, but IIRC the parts weren't cheap either.
 In case the innards of the normal bias and Pro bias units are in fact basically the same except the bias circuit (Birgir/spritzer should know that) the cheapest way to get what you want is asking your greek DIY friends to implement a new bias circuit for the SRD you already own.Shouldn't be that expensive since the custom amp I've got last week does provide four different bias voltages and this didn't add that much to the costs IIRC.


----------



## kintsaki

cosmopragma

 I thing I made a mistake to post instead of PM you.

 I am very sorry and I would like you to accept my sincere apologies.

 Please believe me this is not my way of bargaining. I just wanted to find out what the differences were between the two units apart from the bias voltage.

 As you probably know one can build a Grado RA-1 clone
 with the exact same parts and put in an even more good looking exotic wood box. That does not mean that the value of an original unit (new or used) is affected the least.

 Not knowing whether the transformers are the same
 and before I find out I am ready to commit to buying your unit at the price you will set.

 Once again let me apologize. Let us not let this mistake of mine put a cloud in our friendly relationship


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Krmathis

 So now we may finally see a trend toward "low cost high end" driving units for "stat" phones (for those of us who cannot afford a maxed SP or SEBH.

 Welcome to the "BlueGreen" (BGLC) edition of low cost high end series of amplifiers._

 

You're welcome!
 Not sure about "low cost", since well designed speaker amplifiers don't come cheap. But its certainly possible to come out cheaper than with a direct drive solution.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would this work with any pro bias energiser?_

 

Stax made three Pro bias transformers, SRD-7/MK2, SRD-7/MK2 SB and SRD-7 Pro. Never heard the SRD-7/MK2 SB, but could not hear a difference between the two others. So guess it goes for all of them.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

_

 

Damn....very nice !! Any more info on it.


----------



## spritzer

The only difference between the non-Mk2 SRD-7's is the bias supply and how much it outputs. The mk2 has better wiring but that's it.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ ... 


_

 

What is this? Who makes it? Links to read more about it. It looks awesome. Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

It's one of these designs here. If you can read German then the original thread is here


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_cosmopragma

 I thing I made a mistake to post instead of PM you.

 I am very sorry and I would like you to accept my sincere apologies.

 Please believe me this is not my way of bargaining. I just wanted to find out what the differences were between the two units apart from the bias voltage.

 As you probably know one can build a Grado RA-1 clone
 with the exact same parts and put in an even more good looking exotic wood box. That does not mean that the value of an original unit (new or used) is affected the least.

 Not knowing whether the transformers are the same
 and before I find out I am ready to commit to buying your unit at the price you will set.

 Once again let me apologize. Let us not let this mistake of mine put a cloud in our friendly relationship_

 

No need to apologize since I didn't perceive it as bargaining.
 Looking for the best bang for the buck is legitimate.This is a hobby and I'm not in it for the money anyway, and therefor my advice to let your local DIY-friends add a 580 V bias circuit as the most cost effective way was meant seriously and without any undertone.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's one of these designs here. If you can read German then the original thread is here_

 

Yes, my amp is based on the Hybridamp (some added features, an improved PS and some boutique parts though).
 My moniker over at the german hifi-forum.de is LEARNER.
 Two months ago I had borrowed a similar amp (owned by the nearby living head-fi member RichterDi) for a week and fell in love with it.


----------



## spritzer

Have you played around with any different 6S4 tubes yet? I have a supercharged Egmont (same circuit anyway as Rudi didn't invent any of it) here that is about 80% done which uses two ECC99's and four 6S4A's so it would be cool if you had any impressions.


----------



## vvanrij

Do I understand from this cosmopragma that you are actually able to transform a SRD-7 into a pro-bias?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you played around with any different 6S4 tubes yet? I have a supercharged Egmont (same circuit anyway as Rudi didn't invent any of it) here that is about 80% done which uses two ECC99's and four 6S4A's so it would be cool if you had any impressions._

 

Not yet.
 I've got the amp 5 days ago and didn't have much opportunity for tuberolling yet.I do have 3 different varieties of RCA tubes (and the amp builder has seen 5 different 6S4As from RCA), Raytheon, Westinghouse, Sylvania, General Electric, CBS Hytron and Zenith at my disposal, all NOS, but I don't even know the exact years of production or whether some of them are rebranded or whatnot.In case one of those varieties turns out to be superior I wouldn't know how to hunt them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I haven't found much structured information about the 6S4A yet.Did you?

 All I can say at the moment is that I vastly prefer one of the RCA varieties over the Raytheons I have.The Raytheons are so ****in' polite.Seems to smear transients.I don't even know if this is technically possible, but that's my impression.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I understand from this cosmopragma that you are actually able to transform a SRD-7 into a pro-bias?_

 

No, I can barely tell a resistor from a capacitor but as far as I did understand my builder those bias circuits are no big deal.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I understand from this cosmopragma that you are actually able to transform a SRD-7 into a pro-bias?_

 

It's just a matter of building a new bias supply which consists of a few caps, diodes and resistors. The schematic for the SRD-7 Mk2 has been posted here by me more times then I care to remeber. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not yet.
 I've got the amp 5 days ago and didn't have much opportunity for tuberolling yet.I do have 3 different varieties of RCA tubes (and the amp builder has seen 5 different 6S4As from RCA), Raytheon, Westinghouse, Sylvania, General Electric, CBS Hytron and Zenith at my disposal, all NOS, but I don't even know the exact years of production or whether some of them are relabeled or whatnot.In case one of those varieties turns out to be superior I wouldn't know how to hunt them.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I haven't found much structured information about the 6S4A yet.Did you?

 All I can say at the moment is that I vastly prefer one of the RCA varieties over the Raytheons I have.The Raytheons are so ****in' polite.Seems to smear transients.I don't even know if this is technically possible, but that's my impression._

 

There isn't a lot of information out there on the 6S4A as it's use is rather limited outside of our small niche market. The low power handling means that they aren't of much use as output tubes in anything but low to medium output electrostatic headphone amps. Being a single triode also does little to help it gain new fans... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been using a few different sets mostly Sylvania's. No solid impressions as of yet since the amp is still in the early test stages but it does sound pretty good despite the craptacular circuit. Should be better once I add some feedback to stabilize the amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I can barely tell a resistor from a capacitor but as far as I did understand my builder those bias circuits are no big deal._

 

It's most likely a single voltage that he feeds through voltage dividers to get the desired output voltage. All you need are two resistors...


----------



## derekbmn

I'll agree that info is very limited when it comes to the 6s4a. I have been digging and digging and have came up pretty much empty handed. One thing is clear and thats MANY appear to be rebranded and of the same internal construction. I have found zero sonic impressions of the different brands.

 I will contact my old timer tube guy this week and see if he knows or has any more info on them. (and see if I can rid him of some of his)


----------



## billyearle

Hi, pardon me for cutting in, couldn't find if there's a more appropriate way to post a question on the site, I'm a newbee who's been reading Headfi for 3 or 4 months since my baby damaged my last Lamdas
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. 
 I've had the Omega2MK1s with a 717 for about 2 1/2 weeks (have a Headamp KGBHSE on order for Spring/Summer 2009). 
 On some orchestral recordings, particularly with chorus, I'm noticing a crackle on loud passages which goes away or diminishes if I lower the volume, so I know it's not just the phones revealing flaws in the recording. An example is the choral peaks in the Chandos CD of Rachmaninov's Spring conducted by Polyansky. Classical CDs tend to be manufactured at a lower volume than others so one usually needs to turn up the volume higher on them. I haven't yet noticed a problem with rock or jazz etc. With the 717 for classical I have been tending to set the volume between 6 3/4 and 7 3/4, and find the crackle often only goes away at below 7, which is often not satifyingly loud for the cd. I don't think this is ridiculously loud, although I do like my music a bit on the loud side, partly to compete with the constant traffic drone outside my NYC window. 
 I'm hoping this isn't a limitation of the phones & I'm hoping I haven't been stuck with a mildly defective pair of Omegas
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







. Fixable? Better cables (I have 20 yr old gold plated Monster that were about $40)? 717 lacking power? Replace 10yr old CDplayer or Preamp hooked into the 717? Do I need to buy the Orpheus?? Please help.


----------



## The Monkey

Is this the fart perhaps?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_717 lacking power?_

 

That is very likely the problem. The amp is clipping.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is very likely the problem. The amp is clipping._

 

 Hope you're right about the 717, then I just have to wait till Justin's ready with the Spring/Summer 09 batch of KGBHSEs, hope they don't take as long as the first batch. It's definitely not the fart, I've experienced that already. Any consensus on the 717??


----------



## Duggeh

I have never heard such a problem with my 717/O2 setup. I suppose that if the classical recording has huge dynamic transients that it could be possible though.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never heard such a problem with my 717/O2 setup._

 

I've once owned this setup as well and clipping never occured even with the most dynamic music.
 billyearle does either listen way louder than I do or something is defective.
 Sidenote : I'm no low level listener.I've measured it.I do listen at about 80 dB average with peaks beyond 100 dB for dynamic classical music.
 That's as loud as live classical music.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never heard such a problem with my 717/O2 setup. I suppose that if the classical recording has huge dynamic transients that it could be possible though._

 

I also have this setup and never heard any clipping. I have some copies of master tapes that have wild dynamics and no problem. You could have a tech look for clipping at the output on a scope using a HV probe.


----------



## kintsaki

I also have a SR-717 and an O2 Mark I and although I am listening to it with the volume control maxed (out of RCA driven by DAP, XLR source achieves same sound pressure level at 1 O'Clock). I have never experienced a crackling sound or weird noise.

 However the system does consistently clip on the Bong at the beginning of "O Vazio" on Jim Brock's SACD titled Tropic Affair.

 This does not happen when the SRD7 is used.

 In my opinion the SR-717 is just not good enough for the O2. Both dynamics and detail are simply butchered. Darth Nuts statement that the T2 is just marginally better than the other STAX amps is quite misleading.


----------



## donunus

I just got my 2050s less than a month ago... They are nice and musical but not detailed enough for me. When I got the MHDT havana dac, my hd600s scaled up nicely but the 202s I'm not even so sure if i prefer the $1000 dac over my ipod touch playing through them... Its time to put them up for sale as I find no purpose for them anymore. My non analytical fun cans should be portable, not stuck to an amp that needs to plug in the wall.


----------



## spritzer

I've even tried to make the 717 clip and couldn't do it so that definitely isn't the case. The 717 can output a lot of voltage and your ears would be bleeding before clipping would occur.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've even tried to make the 717 clip and couldn't do it so that definitely isn't the case. The 717 can output a lot of voltage and your ears would be bleeding before clipping would occur._

 

I think that the SRD-7 transformers are so small that it would saturate and self limit before the O2 is overdriven. If you remember I had a pair of custom hand-wound transformers made for a SRD replacement project a few years ago (how time flies). The transformers are much larger and capable of much better bandwidth and higher voltage output. It was designed to have either 25:1 or 50:1 turn’s ratio depending on how the primaries are wired. I was working on the layout for the HV bias supply when I decided to try a KGSS. I much preferred my 717 so I sold the KGSS and never finished the HV supply for the SRD replacement project. Maybe now I should. Could be fun.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the SRD-7 transformers are so small that it would saturate and self limit before the O2 is overdriven. If you remember I had a pair of custom hand-wound transformers made for a SRD replacement project a few years ago (how time flies). The transformers are much larger and capable of much better bandwidth and higher voltage output. It was designed to have either 25:1 or 50:1 turn’s ratio depending on how the primaries are wired. I was working on the layout for the HV bias supply when I decided to try a KGSS. I much preferred my 717 so I sold the KGSS and never finished the HV supply for the SRD replacement project. Maybe now I should. Could be fun._

 

So you like 717 more than KGSS? What did you dislike about KGSS?


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the SRD-7 transformers are so small that it would saturate and self limit before the O2 is overdriven. If you remember I had a pair of custom hand-wound transformers made for a SRD replacement project a few years ago (how time flies). The transformers are much larger and capable of much better bandwidth and higher voltage output. It was designed to have either 25:1 or 50:1 turn’s ratio depending on how the primaries are wired. I was working on the layout for the HV bias supply when I decided to try a KGSS. I much preferred my 717 so I sold the KGSS and never finished the HV supply for the SRD replacement project. Maybe now I should. Could be fun._

 

I say go for it !!

 As to the clipping subject...I'm not convinced that it's otherwise. It's rather doubtfull that the equipment is defective and he said it was only on certain CDs that had large sustained peaks. Another reason I think it could be this is that he made a brief mention of using a preamp ahead of the 717 and it could be possible that it is overdriving the input stage at these times. (a possibility... but unlikely)

 Any ideas if this is not the case ?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got my 2050s less than a month ago... They are nice and musical but not detailed enough for me. When I got the MHDT havana dac, my hd600s scaled up nicely but the 202s I'm not even so sure if i prefer the $1000 dac over my ipod touch playing through them... Its time to put them up for sale as I find no purpose for them anymore. My non analytical fun cans should be portable, not stuck to an amp that needs to plug in the wall._

 

Yeah, the low end Stax are kinda "what you see is what you get" and the 2050 amp is holding them back. So, without dropping $800-1000 on a SRM-T1 or SRM-717 it's possible to get the HD600 to scale up better with good source and amp.

 SR-Lambda Signature or even the SR-Lambda with SRM-T1 or Woo GES are still on about the level of an HD600 with high end cable and balanced amp, maybe slightly better. Better in some areas like speed and clarity, but not all (specifically soundstage focus and pinpoint imaging is better with HD600).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the SRD-7 transformers are so small that it would saturate and self limit before the O2 is overdriven. If you remember I had a pair of custom hand-wound transformers made for a SRD replacement project a few years ago (how time flies). The transformers are much larger and capable of much better bandwidth and higher voltage output. It was designed to have either 25:1 or 50:1 turn’s ratio depending on how the primaries are wired. I was working on the layout for the HV bias supply when I decided to try a KGSS. I much preferred my 717 so I sold the KGSS and never finished the HV supply for the SRD replacement project. Maybe now I should. Could be fun._

 

What are you waiting for? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Go for it, no questions asked. I need someone to kick me in the ass to go the same route myself, and some positive impressions (which I am sure it will be) on a similar project should hopefully get me started.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you like 717 more than KGSS? What did you dislike about KGSS?_

 

If you do a search in this thread I did reviews of the 717, 007t and the KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 and 007t are very similar. The 717 has more extended top and bottom and much more power. The KGSS is powerful and dynamic but lacks the low level detail and the ability to portray the ambiance cues like the 717. When listening to natural jazz, vocal and classical recordings the decay of the acoustic environment seemed to be cut short. It reminded me of the problems that early solid state amps had when compared to a good tube amp. It was like comparing a Mark Levinson ML-2 to a Audio Research D-79 driving the Quad 57’s. The ML-2 was smooth, detailed and musical but was missing something. The D-79 just sounded real; it portrayed a sense of space and the instruments had a natural decay. The KGSS was fine for POP/ROCK studio recordings. I was extremely disappointed and lost money in the sale.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I say go for it !!

 As to the clipping subject...I'm not convinced that it's otherwise. It's rather doubtfull that the equipment is defective and he said it was only on certain CDs that had large sustained peaks. Another reason I think it could be this is that he made a brief mention of using a preamp ahead of the 717 and it could be possible that it is overdriving the input stage at these times. (a possibility... but unlikely)

 Any ideas if this is not the case ?_

 

To verify that it is not the diaphragm slapping I would plug in another headphone at the same time (like a 5 pin Lambda) and see if you hear the same clipping. If it is only in the O2 it is a problem with the phone. If you hear it in both phones the amp is probably clipping. I also would think that the output stage would clip before the front end would be overloaded.


----------



## Sherwood

you'd only overload the preamp input with variable volume, I would suspect. An easy test is to turn the preamp volume down and play the same passage. if it clips again, too much input. if it doesn't, too much output.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you do a search in this thread I did reviews of the 717, 007t and the KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 and 007t are very similar. The 717 has more extended top and bottom and much more power. The KGSS is powerful and dynamic but lacks the low level detail and the ability to portray the ambiance cues like the 717. When listening to natural jazz, vocal and classical recordings the decay of the acoustic environment seemed to be cut short. It reminded me of the problems that early solid state amps had when compared to a good tube amp. It was like comparing a Mark Levinson ML-2 to a Audio Research D-79 driving the Quad 57’s. The ML-2 was smooth, detailed and musical but was missing something. The D-79 just sounded real; it portrayed a sense of space and the instruments had a natural decay. The KGSS was fine for POP/ROCK studio recordings. I was extremely disappointed and lost money in the sale._

 

Did you ever compare KGSS to T1S? I am curious what the differences are there. I found that with Lambda T1S sounded more realistic, than my SRM-1, even though it was less powerful, but I was curios about KGSS as an upgrade step.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To verify that it is not the diaphragm slapping I would plug in another headphone at the same time (like a 5 pin Lambda) and see if you hear the same clipping. If it is only in the O2 it is a problem with the phone. If you hear it in both phones the amp is probably clipping. I also would think that the output stage would clip before the front end would be overloaded._

 

Great idea. And yes I agree that the output stage would probably clip before any clipping and/or overloading on the input side of the 717 would. (hence the possible....but unlikely deal)


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you ever compare KGSS to T1S? I am curious what the differences are there. I found that with Lambda T1S sounded more realistic, than my SRM-1, even though it was less powerful, but I was curios about KGSS as an upgrade step._

 

I have both and have compared them...The T1S and the KGSS with blackgates. I much prefer the KGSS over the T1S while the T1S does nothing bad it just does not do what the KGSS does when listening to the SR-007MkII. Opens then up quite a bit. The tubes vs. SS is clearly a difference that I am hearing I think.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you'd only overload the preamp input with variable volume, I would suspect. An easy test is to turn the preamp volume down and play the same passage. if it clips again, too much input. if it doesn't, too much output._

 

The only way to overload the input before the output clips is if there is any active circuitry before the volume control. I’m pretty sure that the input goes directly to the volume control. All (well almost all) amp designers design their amps to voltage or current clip at the output stage way before any front end circuit would clip.


----------



## Sherwood

I only mention that as my preamp, which is pretty reasonable in every other respect, can indeed clip the input first. I was baffled.

 I agree, though, that it is far more likely that your output is clipping, should clipping indeed be your problem. You seem to know your stuff, so there's little need for my 1-2-3 troubleshoot


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you ever compare KGSS to T1S? I am curious what the differences are there. I found that with Lambda T1S sounded more realistic, than my SRM-1, even though it was less powerful, but I was curios about KGSS as an upgrade step._

 

I have a T1w (same circuit as T1s but also a passive preamp-what a cool product). I really like the T1w on the Lambda series, SR-XIII pro and ESP-950 but is rather weak on the O2. The 007t has more drive and punch. I must say that there is still a Stax family resemblance. For Lambda's I would take the T1w over the KGSS as long as you weren’t going to play at extremely loud levels. The 717, 007t and T1 (I do not like the 006t) amps do a great job of low level detail and ambiance cue retrieval.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that the SRD-7 transformers are so small that it would saturate and self limit before the O2 is overdriven. If you remember I had a pair of custom hand-wound transformers made for a SRD replacement project a few years ago (how time flies). The transformers are much larger and capable of much better bandwidth and higher voltage output. It was designed to have either 25:1 or 50:1 turn’s ratio depending on how the primaries are wired. I was working on the layout for the HV bias supply when I decided to try a KGSS. I much preferred my 717 so I sold the KGSS and never finished the HV supply for the SRD replacement project. Maybe now I should. Could be fun._

 

The cores weren't designed for anything close to the output needed for the SR-007 (or any of the Omegas for that matter) so they are starved for power. I've always wanted to pick up some cheap output transformers and wire them the wrong way around so see what happens. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. Build that bias supply!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only way to overload the input before the output clips is if there is any active circuitry before the volume control. I’m pretty sure that the input goes directly to the volume control. All (well almost all) amp designers design their amps to voltage or current clip at the output stage way before any front end circuit would clip._

 

The input does go straight to the pot but if using a preamp before the 717 it makes no sense to not take the pot out of the circuit using the internal switch.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only mention that as my preamp, which is pretty reasonable in every other respect, can indeed clip the input first. I was baffled.

 I agree, though, that it is far more likely that your output is clipping, should clipping indeed be your problem. You seem to know your stuff, so there's little need for my 1-2-3 troubleshoot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Thanks Sherwood and everyone, I'm actually tech-illiterate, and BARELY conversant in audio lingo. (if I could find a smily-face puntuation on this site that looked like "village idiot" that'd be me, I went to art school). I may need your 1-2-3 troubleshoot.
 Apart from the O2, I only have damaged 6pin Lamdas so I can't hook those into the 717 to compare. 
 Someone suggested cleaning the volume pot on the 717, think it'd help?


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you'd only overload the preamp input with variable volume, I would suspect. An easy test is to turn the preamp volume down and play the same passage. if it clips again, too much input. if it doesn't, too much output._

 

 I must not be using a variable output, as the headphone volume is only controllable thru the 717, even with the preamp connected. Nor does the preamp being turned on or off have any effect on the sound thru the phones.


----------



## billyearle

I tried connecting the CD player directly to the 717 and it still clips (crackles) in the same spots at the same volume settings. As before the clipping goes away when I lower the volume. What to try next?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried connecting the CD player directly to the 717 and it still clips (crackles) *in the same spots at the same volume settings.* As before the clipping goes away when I lower the volume. What to try next?_

 

Call me naive and simplistic if you want but this reads all too much to me like the volume control pot. I'd undo the case and carefully clean the pot with some compressed air as a first measure and see if that changes anything.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Call me naive and simplistic if you want but this reads all too much to me like the volume control pot. I'd undo the case and carefully clean the pot with some compressed air as a first measure and see if that changes anything._

 

It's quite some time ago that I did own a 717 but if my memory doesn't fail me the pot of the 717 is bypassable in order to avoid stacked pots in the signal path in case you do utilize a preamp upstream.


----------



## mark_h

Went to the dealers today picked up my O2's, two days late but man was it worth the wait! They also loaned me an array of Interconnects to audition, alas my LP12 is still at the shop so no vinyl to test the cables out!

 Back to the O2's, well, what can I say? From the headphone jack of my iPhone to my energizer (really compromised source), first album Portishead - Roseland NYC. I sat mesmerized for the entire length of the album, I have *never* done this before with any new audio gear, I always skip about and listen to default songs I know best, obsessing over what should or should not be there. Not this time, there was no inclination to, I was transported (this will sound really weird to the sane people out there) my face did not know what to do? I was overjoyed with the quality of what I was hearing but the emotional content of the music was so compellingly, beautifully sad I was lost for an expression to convey these mixed emotions, Bizare! I did not scour the music for the elements that comprise a extensive headphone audition, such as soundstage, detail, extension, all of these things just fell perfectly into place. 

 With every expensive headphone purchase I have made thus far, because of the price and expectation, I have almost always focused on their flaws, not deliberately but disappointment is a powerful critic (UE11, RS1, etc.) The O2's are the first where the music has just taken over, irrespective of the source quality. I look forward to the LP12 and every album.

 Edit: Thanks to the guys in this thread for helping me make the right choices.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Went to the dealers today picked up my O2's, two days late but man was it worth the wait! They also loaned me an array of Interconnects to audition, alas my LP12 is still at the shop so no vinyl to test the cables out!

 Back to the O2's, well, what can I say? From the headphone jack of my iPhone to my energizer (really compromised source), first album Portishead - Roseland NYC. I sat mesmerized for the entire length of the album, I have *never* done this before with any new audio gear, I always skip about and listen to default songs I know best, obsessing over what should or should not be there. Not this time, there was no inclination to, I was transported (this will sound really weird to the sane people out there) my face did not know what to do? I was overjoyed with the quality of what I was hearing but the emotional content of the music was so compellingly, beautifully sad I was lost for an expression to convey these mixed emotions, Bizare! I did not scour the music for the elements that comprise a extensive headphone audition, such as soundstage, detail, extension, all of these things just fell perfectly into place. 

 With every expensive headphone purchase I have made thus far, because of the price and expectation, I have almost always focused on their flaws, not deliberately but disappointment is a powerful critic (UE11, RS1, etc.) The O2's are the first where the music has just taken over, irrespective of the source quality. I look forward to the LP12 and every album.

 Edit: Thanks to the guys in this thread for helping me make the right choices._

 

I don't know it was me or for real but it took about two months for mine to settle down to the emotional presentation that mine have today and I really enjoy it now as my best headphone.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know it was me or for real but it took about two months for mine to settle down to the emotional presentation that mine have today and I really enjoy it now as my best headphone._

 

The dealer said they had a really long burn in time. I can hear a subtle change after about 2 hours, (Top end getting smoother). Amp? Phones? Who knows? Things to look forward to!


----------



## krmathis

mark_h. Pleased to hear that you have picked up the O2, and are more or less blown away by its sound. Guess you are hooked! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Just imagine what a "real" source will do to the sound.

 Enjoy!


----------



## vvanrij

Haha, there is always something you can spend more on


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Call me naive and simplistic if you want but this reads all too much to me like the volume control pot. I'd undo the case and carefully clean the pot with some compressed air as a first measure and see if that changes anything._

 

 Will I know the volume pot when I see it, and anything in particular I should be careful about?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's quite some time ago that I did own a 717 but if my memory doesn't fail me the pot of the 717 is bypassable in order to avoid stacked pots in the signal path in case you do utilize a preamp upstream._

 

 I don't have an owners manual, so anyone know how to do this?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will I know the volume pot when I see it, and anything in particular I should be careful about?


 I don't have an owners manual, so anyone know how to do this? I was also thinking of trying the Tape Out jack on my pream instead of the Main Out jack, but was concerned this is not what the Tape Out is meant for, could hooking to my 717 this way damage the phones or 717?_

 

Tape Out is just a line level output that doesn't change with the pre-amp volume control. You should be fine (should being the operative word).


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_mark_h. Pleased to hear that you have picked up the O2, and are more or less blown away by its sound. Guess you are hooked! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Just imagine what a "real" source will do to the sound.

 Enjoy!_

 

Can't wait for the vinyl! They certainly are a WOW headphone!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have an owners manual, so anyone know how to do this?_

 

Remove the two hex screws on each side and remove the top cover. There is a switch on the side of the amp, next to the volume pot which you change. You should only use it if you are controlling the volume from the preamp and not using the tape out as it is unattenuated.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Call me naive and simplistic if you want but this reads all too much to me like the volume control pot. I'd undo the case and carefully clean the pot with some compressed air as a first measure and see if that changes anything._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remove the two hex screws on each side and remove the top cover. There is a switch on the side of the amp, next to the volume pot which you change. You should only use it if you are controlling the volume from the preamp and not using the tape out as it is unattenuated._

 

 Thanks Spritzer, I changed the switch, but turned out I'd been using tape/out all along
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




so that was too loud and REALLY gave a crackle on a drumstroke before I could stop the player, then I tried switching from the tape/out to the Main/out on the preamp and tried both internal switch settings on the 717, one gave no sound and the other gave lots of Preamp tube-hiss and BARELY any signal volume even with both volume knobs all the way up. So I'm back to using the tape/out on the Preamp.
 Re: Cleaning the Volume Pot, I saw inside the 717 a small closed box opposite the outide volume knob, and then two (small circuit boards?) between the box and the internal switch you mentioned. I'm not sure which is the volume pot, do I need to open that little dark box to clean it? sorry I'm so naive, not a tech person at all, beyond switching tubes & fuses.


----------



## mark_h

Do the headphones require burn in or is it only the amp/tubes etc?


----------



## Oublie

definately some burn in necessary, new electrostatics need some time for the stator to bed in and any fine wrinkles on them to even out. just like dynamics there is a certain amount of 'bedding in' to be done afaik someone said lambda 404's need about 400hrs but this may not be true.


----------



## spritzer

The diaphragm should in theory become smoother with use but I've never experienced much if any burn in with electrostatics. The amps do sound better after running in for a day or so but the effect of warm up is far more dramatic. A Blue Hawaii at turn on and after cooking for two hours makes for a night and day difference and the same can be said, to some extend at least, about all of the amps I've tried.


----------



## mark_h

They so some amazing things these stax! I have my main rig all set up and settling in for about 48 hours now, a bit of cable swapping here and there but so far I am really happy. loving the quality of the bass, the realism, listening to The beta band, 'It's Over' it really is like Richard Greentree is sat next to me playing the acoustic bass.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They so some amazing things these stax! I have my main rig all set up and settling in for about 48 hours now, a bit of cable swapping here and there but so far I am really happy. loving the quality of the bass, the realism, listening to The beta band, 'It's Over' it really is like Richard Greentree is sat next to me playing the acoustic bass._

 

Do you have the MK1 or MK2? Since you talk about going to the dealer, I'm assuming the MK2? 

 Thanks!


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Hi!

 Sorry to interrupt your conversation, and sorry my clumsy English.

 This is my first message to this forum, but I am a long-time lurker…






 I currently have Stax Classic System II, but considering to buy something more “High End”. I listened couple of days Omega 2 MK IIs + SRM-727, and didn’t like them. Basses are too heavy, and that is enough to ruin their sound, IMHO.

 I don’t need closed phones, but if I want to stay Staxes, there is no other choise than 4070, I think. I tried to find 4070 reviews, but found only one:

STAX 4070 Headphone Reviewed - Audio Reviews, Equipment Reviews, Headphone Reviews (Classic) - HomeTheaterReview.com

 So, I need some help. You, who have heard Stax 4070, what do you think? How big step forward are them, when compared to 303s? Do you count them as High End phones? How much openness of sound is sacrificed for closed construction?

 Thanx in advance.


----------



## spritzer

The 4070 is excellent and a nice step up from the SR-303 but they are monitor headphones and not something I could live with for day to day listening. First of all they sound a bit bass light and they are also very heavy and a bit claustrophobic. The only artifact of the closed back is a slight thickening of the upper midrange but that's all. 

 The SR-007 Mk2/A are indeed too bass heavy so my solution would be simple, track down a used SR-007 Mk1 and a SRM-717 amp get both IMHO a better amp and headphones for a lower price. The SR-007 arcs (the two metal straps that go over the head) also need to be tweaked by bending them at each ear to tame the bass response.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have the MK1 or MK2? Since you talk about going to the dealer, I'm assuming the MK2? 

 Thanks!_

 

Mk2


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The diaphragm should in theory become smoother with use but I've never experienced much if any burn in with electrostatics. The amps do sound better after running in for a day or so but the effect of warm up is far more dramatic. A Blue Hawaii at turn on and after cooking for two hours makes for a night and day difference and the same can be said, to some extend at least, about all of the amps I've tried._

 

Definitely concur on warm-up and my experience is amp burn-in varies depending on the amp and, in particular, the capacitors used.

 But the warm-up factor is most dramatic and I definitely do not make assessments of the overall sound without at least 20 mins passive warm-up and about the same with some music running through the system. The 2 hours spritzer suggests is probably much better - I just don't plan my warm-up time well enough and get impatient to listen after 40 mins or so. LOL.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007 Mk2/A are indeed too bass heavy so my solution would be simple, track down a used SR-007 Mk1 and a SRM-717 amp get both IMHO a better amp and headphones for a lower price. The SR-007 arcs (the two metal straps that go over the head) also need to be tweaked by bending them at each ear to tame the bass response._

 

I second the motion!


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-007 arcs (the two metal straps that go over the head) also need to be tweaked by bending them at each ear to tame the bass response._

 

Are you refering to the MK1? Should the arcs be bent away from the ear, and how much? Should they be bent where the arc meets the earpiece, or somewhat above at the bend?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lonely_Rider* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi!

 Sorry to interrupt your conversation, and sorry my clumsy English.

 This is my first message to this forum, but I am a long-time lurker…





 I currently have Stax Classic System II, but considering to buy something more “High End”. I listened couple of days Omega 2 MK IIs + SRM-727, and didn’t like them. Basses are too heavy, and that is enough to ruin their sound, IMHO.

 I don’t need closed phones, but if I want to stay Staxes, there is no other choise than 4070, I think. I tried to find 4070 reviews, but found only one:

STAX 4070 Headphone Reviewed - Audio Reviews, Equipment Reviews, Headphone Reviews (Classic) - HomeTheaterReview.com

 So, I need some help. You, who have heard Stax 4070, what do you think? How big step forward are them, when compared to 303s? Do you count them as High End phones? How much openness of sound is sacrificed for closed construction?

 Thanx in advance.




_

 

I am using the 007Mk2 with 717 and am quite happy. I have also used the spring modification suggested by Spritzer.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/t...estion-381975/

 It turns out that I am also using the ear pads reversed compared to what many others have been doing. (Stax doesn't specify the correct orientation) So I wouldn't rule out the 007A.

 I have been using Signal Cable's Silver resolution power cord with the 717 recently. I had a good experience with their much cheaper Magic Power cord with the SRM1 Mk2 amp and decided to try a better cable with the 717. The Silver Resolution was a notable improvement over a Cardas cable I had been using for several years, adding even more detail to the 007A/717.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely concur on warm-up and my experience is amp burn-in varies depending on the amp and, in particular, the capacitors used.

 But the warm-up factor is most dramatic and I definitely do not make assessments of the overall sound without at least 20 mins passive warm-up and about the same with some music running through the system. The 2 hours spritzer suggests is probably much better - I just don't plan my warm-up time well enough and get impatient to listen after 40 mins or so. LOL. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The warm up time is very dependant on the amp design and its thermal stability. Since transistors are much more linear once they reach their ideal running temp it's no wonder that the amps sound better. In the case of SRM-313/323 I just left them on 24/7 since they don't sound good until after quite a while. The 717 is better in this regard but also benefits from a few hours on. The Blue Hawaii pushes out more heat then any other headphone amp I know of and benefits greatly from some running time. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you refering to the MK1? Should the arcs be bent away from the ear, and how much? Should they be bent where the arc meets the earpiece, or somewhat above at the bend?_

 

It really depends on the size and shape of your head what you need to do if you even have to make any alterations at all. Since the SR-007 doesn't swivel like all other headphones the arc's may need to be bent to make the headphone sound as it should have. Here is my original thread on the matter.


----------



## mark_h

Coming from the UE11 and Grados the bass of the O2's seems OK, a bit bloomy as they say but realistic? I'm happy.


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Thanx for the comments about 4070's.

 Maybe it is better to try to find O2 MK I somewhere. Or maybe HeAudio JADE's.


----------



## The Monkey

My new pads arrived today.


----------



## SoliloCey

KRmantis how did you like your Stax SR001?


----------



## mark_h

Can someone please point me in the right direction, my left channel has become louder than the right?


----------



## spritzer

You do know that the volume knob is also a balance knob...


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do know that the volume knob is also a balance knob..._

 

Yes I do thanks, it was a cartridge alignment problem, sorted now.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lonely_Rider* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanx for the comments about 4070's.

 Maybe it is better to try to find O2 MK I somewhere. Or maybe HeAudio JADE's._

 

To me both the SR-007 and the MK II are too bass heavy to live with but they have a very nice mid range and refined highs. I'm gussing that you would prefer SR-303 with the Woo GES over your current amp by a fair margin. I'm planning on trying the SR-4070 with the SRM-727II in future. Let me know if you are interested in what I think of the combo.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes I do thanks, it was a cartridge alignment problem, sorted now._

 

It's always the split volume knob that springs to mind when this happens. You don't want to know how many times nervous first time owners have contacted me about this very issue...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_KRmantis how did you like your Stax SR001?_

 

Guess its me you call for..
 I very much liked the sound from the SR-001MK2 system, especially considering that its a portable system. I could not get a comfortable fit though, so decided to part with it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lonely_Rider* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanx for the comments about 4070's.

 Maybe it is better to try to find O2 MK I somewhere. Or maybe HeAudio JADE's._

 

As noted by 'spritzer' the 4070 are really nice pair of headphones. Being monitors they are perhaps not ideal as the only daily use 'phone though. So I would rather hunt down an SR-007 or SR-007BL.

 Welcome to Head-Fi!


----------



## Keithpgdrb

hey spritzer,

 you had said to be careful when opening the sr-lambda casing because the solder points will sometimes break.. I have not opened them, but I am noticing some static when moving the chord on my lambdas. my first assumption is the cable solder points are loose, or coming loose. I am not a very experienced solder-er. are the points to secure fairly straight forward? or do I need some serious experience to do this? dont want to screw them up.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess its me you call for..
 I very much liked the sound from the SR-001MK2 system, especially considering that its a portable system. I could not get a comfortable fit though, so decided to part with it.
_

 

oh sorry i got your name wrong...

 how bad is the battery life in the amp thing? sound quality? worth the $$$? or would you stick to dynamic in-ears? good for traveling?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's always the split volume knob that springs to mind when this happens. You don't want to know how many times nervous first time owners have contacted me about this very issue... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

**The Monkey Raises Hand**


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh sorry i got your name wrong...

 how bad is the battery life in the amp thing? sound quality? worth the $$$? or would you stick to dynamic in-ears? good for traveling?_

 

No hard feelings! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Regarding all the questions
 1. Depends on the batteries (Alcaline, rechargeables, ...), but somewhere around 5-8 hours.
 2. Fast, beautiful midrange, bass punch, ...
 3. Worth it for the sound quality imo.
 4. I would, and do, stick to dynamics into Stax can make a comfortable portable system.
 5. No sound isolation = not really suitable for noisy environment.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey spritzer,

 you had said to be careful when opening the sr-lambda casing because the solder points will sometimes break.. I have not opened them, but I am noticing some static when moving the chord on my lambdas. my first assumption is the cable solder points are loose, or coming loose. I am not a very experienced solder-er. are the points to secure fairly straight forward? or do I need some serious experience to do this? dont want to screw them up._

 

You would only have to reflow the solder joint and you'd be good to go. Easy as pie but be sure to cover the driver with something like a piece of cardboard as a stray drop of flux can damage the membrane. 

 I do think that it might be the cable though that is damaged as there should never be any force present on the joints inside if the strain relief is properly fixed in place. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_**The Monkey Raises Hand**_

 

Pats The Monkey gently on the head...


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To me both the SR-007 and the MK II are too bass heavy to live with but they have a very nice mid range and refined highs. I'm gussing that you would prefer SR-303 with the Woo GES over your current amp by a fair margin. I'm planning on trying the SR-4070 with the SRM-727II in future. Let me know if you are interested in what I think of the combo._

 

Yes, I am very interested for your opinions about 4070 + SRM 727II.





 For me, 303's basses are almost ok (maybe little light), but middles are too sharp, and sometimes hurting my ears.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do think that it might be the cable though that is damaged as there should never be any force present on the joints inside if the strain relief is properly fixed in place. _

 

well thats not good. what does one do in this situation?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well thats not good. what does one do in this situation? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There is not much that can be done except swap the cable out for a pro one and perhaps put in a dummy pin so that it won't be used in a 5 pin socket. The SR-202 cable will be identical to the one you are using now so a direct replacement.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is not much that can be done except swap the cable out for a pro one and perhaps put in a dummy pin so that it won't be used in a 5 pin socket. The SR-202 cable will be identical to the one you are using now so a direct replacement._

 






 well that really sucks.

 anyone out there interested in trading me theirs, and they can fix mine?

 sigh..........


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 As noted by 'spritzer' the 4070 are really nice pair of headphones. Being monitors they are perhaps not ideal as the only daily use 'phone though. So I would rather hunt down an SR-007 or SR-007BL.

 Welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks!

 In your opinion, what is 4070's biggest flaw? Is their sound too "neutral", or are they too heavy?


----------



## The Monkey

I think we should consider a Stax repair/mod thread. It would be very useful.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we should consider a Stax repair/mod thread. It would be very useful._

 

But then spritzer would be driven to insanity


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we should consider a Stax repair/mod thread. It would be very useful._

 

That thread could be this thread!


----------



## The Monkey

^heh, I was thinking that, too, but this thread is filled with stupid subjects like "what do they sound like" and "how should they be amped" and comparisons to other cans.


----------



## The Monkey

So I've got a pair of Lambda Pros open for repadding and cleaning. Should I just leave the yellow foam alone?


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Call me naive and simplistic if you want but this reads all too much to me like the volume control pot. I'd undo the case and carefully clean the pot with some compressed air as a first measure and see if that changes anything._

 

 Could someone give me an IDIOT's Guide To 717 Volume pot cleaning?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I got the lid off the 717, and see a black box behind the volume knob. Is that the volume pot? Do I need to open that box, or just spray air around it? Do I need to be careful not to spray anything fragile around it? I've never studied engeneering, or even soldered anything, so please go easy on the tech-lingo.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks, Bill


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But then spritzer would be driven to insanity 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Been there, done that...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've got a pair of Lambda Pros open for repadding and cleaning. Should I just leave the yellow foam alone?_

 

It's a personal choice so it's tough to say which you'll like more. The wool is there for a reason...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Been there, done that...



 It's a personal choice so it's tough to say which you'll like more. The wool is there for a reason..._

 

Thanks Spritzer. I decided to leave it in. This pair is in really nice condition, and I managed to clean out all the old foam from the front side of the drivers. Then I put on a new pad on one side. Then...

 ...disaster with the stupid-ass double-sided tape for the other side. Would it kill Stax to include two sets of double-sided considering that it doesn't take a genius to do it, but one shake of the hand and the tape is screwed.

 Anyway, I'll just get more double-sided but it ticks me off. Any recommendations about a particular type of double-sided tape? The kind I have around is household type stuff and way too thick.

 On a happier note, I was pleased how easy it was to take apart and put back together these phones, especially since the gurus here let me know what to expect. I feel much more confident now should I need to repair my Signatures.


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Spritzer. I decided to leave it in. This pair is in really nice condition, and I managed to clean out all the old foam from the front side of the drivers. Then I put on a new pad on one side. Then...

 ...disaster with the stupid-ass double-sided tape for the other side. Would it kill Stax to include two sets of double-sided considering that it doesn't take a genius to do it, but one shake of the hand and the tape is screwed.

 Anyway, I'll just get more double-sided but it ticks me off. Any recommendations about a particular type of double-sided tape? The kind I have around is household type stuff and way too thick.

 On a happier note, I was pleased how easy it was to take apart and put back together these phones, especially since the gurus here let me know what to expect. I feel much more confident now should I need to repair my Signatures._

 

the tape is called permacell, it comes in 3/4 and 2" widths. i have some at work. if you need to send me a pm with your address and i'll get you some. foam tape come in as little as 1/32 thick, that might be ok. permacell is about the thickness of card stock.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 It's a personal choice so it's tough to say which you'll like more. The wool is there for a reason..._

 

So as I was repadding and cleaning my Signatures, I noticed (for the first time
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) that there is no wool. I am assuming that this is not a unique feature of the Sig model, right? If I want to replace it, what would I use?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ri_toast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the tape is called permacell, it comes in 3/4 and 2" widths. i have some at work. if you need to send me a pm with your address and i'll get you some. foam tape come in as little as 1/32 thick, that might be ok. permacell is about the thickness of card stock._

 

Many thanks for the helpful info. I'll shoot a pm if I can't get it.


----------



## Currawong

Speaking of repairs, my SR5NBs gave me a huge scare when I first got them: They have some kind of odd plastic in the cups behind the drivers which, being old, is crackly. When one puts them on, one hears very loud popping and crackling, which at first I thought was something going seriously wrong! Unplugging them revealed that it indeed wasn't anything to do with arcing -- disassembly revealing the above-mentioned crackly plastic.

 Looking at the drivers too, on the ear side, there is what looks like a thin layer of cling-wrap. What is this? It's not in the best condition, having dust and other crap stuck to it, but I presume it's to protect from dust getting into the driver assembly and causing problems?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You would only have to reflow the solder joint and you'd be good to go. Easy as pie but be sure to cover the driver with something like a piece of cardboard as a stray drop of flux can damage the membrane. 

 I do think that it might be the cable though that is damaged as there should never be any force present on the joints inside if the strain relief is properly fixed in place. 



 Pats The Monkey gently on the head... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ok. Now that I've gotten over the shock, and stopped feeling sorry for myself, I'll be proactive here. I will spend some time with the lambda and test the chord for shorts. If I find that I do indeed need a new cable, how do I get the 202 cable that is a match for mine? Also, will there be a problem using the pro cable with my normal bias energizer? Is any power carried in the missing plug prong? Would I be loosing anything? I guess I'm just confused by how the pro cable is a direct replacement for mine.
 Any and all help is very appreciated. I'm not just stalking spritzer here


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So as I was repadding and cleaning my Signatures, I noticed (for the first time
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) that there is no wool. I am assuming that this is not a unique feature of the Sig model, right? If I want to replace it, what would I use?_

 

The Sigs were the first Lambda to be fully open so there is nothing wrong there. 

 As for the glue, just go to a local crafts store and see what they have in stock. I've tried a lot of different types and almost anything will do for the earpads. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok. Now that I've gotten over the shock, and stopped feeling sorry for myself, I'll be proactive here. I will spend some time with the lambda and test the chord for shorts. If I find that I do indeed need a new cable, how do I get the 202 cable that is a match for mine? Also, will there be a problem using the pro cable with my normal bias energizer? Is any power carried in the missing plug prong? Would I be loosing anything? I guess I'm just confused by how the pro cable is a direct replacement for mine.
 Any and all help is very appreciated. I'm not just stalking spritzer here _

 

Talk to the US Stax distributor about a new cable. The center pin does indeed have a function on the normal bias models ,it carries the right channel bias, but on the pro models the bias for both drivers is tied into the other bias pin. The pin out is naturally the same though and a 5-pin cable will always work in a 6-pin socket.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel much more confident now should I need to repair my Signatures._

 

I've been meaning to ask you for some time now; In what way are your L. Sigs "injured" ?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Thanks spritzer. I'll start looking for a short then tomorrow. About how much do you think that cable will be? I have a birthday coming. Maybe I'll ask for it! LOL but seriously, thank you.


----------



## spritzer

I'm not sure how much the cable would be but probably around 50$.


----------



## SoliloCey

i heard the lambda nova signatures today...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigs were the first Lambda to be fully open so there is nothing wrong there. 

 As for the glue, just go to a local crafts store and see what they have in stock. I've tried a lot of different types and almost anything will do for the earpads._

 

As always, thanks Spritzer. I was about to shred one of my wife's sweaters...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been meaning to ask you for some time now; In what way are your L. Sigs "injured" ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The right channel has some noise. Sounds almost like a short in the cable, but I'm not sure because the joints looked ok to me. The sound is almost like static, but more staccato if that makes sense. Almost like a ticking. And it's not always present; in fact, it seems to go away over time. But it is audible above soft music when it occurs. I will probably try to reflow the joints when I have a chance.

 Have I just described a slowly dying Sig?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks spritzer. I'll start looking for a short then tomorrow. About how much do you think that cable will be? I have a birthday coming. Maybe I'll ask for it! LOL but seriously, thank you._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure how much the cable would be but probably around 50$._

 

Accutech quoted me $125 for an SR-303 replacement cable.


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i heard the lambda nova signatures today..._

 

So, did you like it?


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The right channel has some noise. Sounds almost like a short in the cable, but I'm not sure because the joints looked ok to me. The sound is almost like static, but more staccato if that makes sense. Almost like a ticking. And it's not always present; in fact, it seems to go away over time. But it is audible above soft music when it occurs. I will probably try to reflow the joints when I have a chance.

 Have I just described a slowly dying Sig?_

 

Aha, I see. I think I understand what you're describing. I sure hope its not a dying Sig though. I'd hate to see a Sig dying, they are like my most favourite headphone in the world at the moment.... I just love the Sigs. Could it be some dust or something in there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Speaking of the L. Sig, has anyone here moved on from using the T1 to the 717 for driving the Sig? How did the sound change? I'm thinking of moving on to the 717, but I'm afraid I'll loose the sound I currently love soo much by having the Sigs driven by a T1... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, if anyone knows of a 717 for sale, please point me in that direction.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Aha, I see. I think I understand what you're describing. I sure hope its not a dying Sig though. I'd hate to see a Sig dying, they are like my most favourite headphone in the world at the moment.... I just love the Sigs. Could it be some dust or something in there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Speaking of the L. Sig, has anyone here moved on from using the T1 to the 717 for driving the Sig? How did the sound change? I'm thinking of moving on to the 717, but I'm afraid I'll loose the sound I currently love soo much by having the Sigs driven by a T1... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, if anyone knows of a 717 for sale, please point me in that direction. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have a T1w, 717 and 007t. The 717 is best on the O2. My favorite amp for the Lambda series and SR-X series is the 007t. It has all the qualities of the T1 but better extention. Tighter, deeper bass and more dynamic. Bigger soundstage. The 007t has both high and low bias outputs (the 007tII does not) and is a great universal amp. The 717 can be a little overly detailed for most of the Lambda series, but is great on the ESP-950.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lonely_Rider* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!

 In your opinion, what is 4070's biggest flaw? Is their sound too "neutral", or are they too heavy?_

 

Let me see...
 * Too much monitor (neutral) sound.
 * Quite heavy.
 * Price. Just a handful more $$ and you get an O2.

 That said, I really enjoy mine. Not bad 'phones overall, but not quite up there with the SR-007BL.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i heard the lambda nova signatures today..._

 

Nice! So, did you like them?


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a T1w, 717 and 007t. The 717 is best on the O2. My favorite amp for the Lambda series and SR-X series is the 007t. It has all the qualities of the T1 but better extention. Tighter, deeper bass and more dynamic. Bigger soundstage. The 007t has both high and low bias outputs (the 007tII does not) and is a great universal amp. The 717 can be a little overly detailed for most of the Lambda series, but is great on the ESP-950._

 

Thanks, that was informative to me. Now, I'm not really bothered about the normal bias stuff, so 717 should be fine, no need for normal bias jacks. I'm a detail freak, so there is no such thing as "too detailed" for me. I welcome as much detail as I can, my only concern is, will the 717 change the way the Lambda Signature sounds?

 You said "Tighter, deeper bass and more dynamic. Bigger soundstage." when the Lambdas were plugged into the 007t. My next question is, how do the Lambda's sound/change when they are plugged into the 717?

 I'm not too bothered about the O2+717 combo because many have established that its a reasonably good combo. I'm more curious about the 717+Lambda combo since not many here use that combo. Thanks a lot!


----------



## The Monkey

I don't think its dust because I cleaned them last night, but may try again.

 As for the amp, I agree that the 007t is a nice combo with the Sigs. But I have not heard them with a 717 or 727.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the glue, just go to a local crafts store and see what they have in stock. I've tried a lot of different types and almost anything will do for the earpads. _

 

How about Krazy Glue? Or is that TOO Krazy?


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me see...
 * Price. Just a handful more $$ and you get an O2._

 

The 4070 are £100 more than the O2 in the Uk? The prices changed in January?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 4070 are £100 more than the O2 in the Uk? The prices changed in January?_

 

Guess it depends where you buy them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




PriceJapan:
 SR-007A -> $2,171
 4070 -> $1,662

Lyric Hifi:
 SR-007MK2 -> NOK 21,879 ($3,130)
 4070 -> NOK 18,332 ($2,622)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How about Krazy Glue? Or is that TOO Krazy?_

 

Way too crazy. You need something like this i.e. double sided adhesive sheets. Never used that type so its just a suggestion.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My next question is, how do the Lambda's sound/change when they are plugged into the 717?_

 

The 717 sounds more extended on top and bottom and flat in responce with a more neutral tonal balance. This does make the Lambda's upper midrange brightness more apparent. The bass slam and dynamics are exciting. You will find youself more critical of the source equipment and program material. There are few that dislike the 717 with any Stax phone. Go for it!


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, that was informative to me. Now, I'm not really bothered about the normal bias stuff, so 717 should be fine, no need for normal bias jacks. I'm a detail freak, so there is no such thing as "too detailed" for me. I welcome as much detail as I can, my only concern is, will the 717 change the way the Lambda Signature sounds?

 You said "Tighter, deeper bass and more dynamic. Bigger soundstage." when the Lambdas were plugged into the 007t. My next question is, how do the Lambda's sound/change when they are plugged into the 717?

 I'm not too bothered about the O2+717 combo because many have established that its a reasonably good combo. I'm more curious about the 717+Lambda combo since not many here use that combo. Thanks a lot! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would second the recommendation of SRM-007t with Lambdas. An even better choice would be the Woo GES, it's a great match for Lambdas.

 The SRM-717 will not just be too detailed (and reveal the faults of the Lambda Signature), it will sound different than an all tube or tube hybrid amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would second the recommendation of SRM-007t with Lambdas. An even better choice would be the Woo GES, it's a great match for Lambdas.

 The SRM-717 will not just be too detailed (and reveal the faults of the Lambda Signature), it will sound different than an all tube or tube hybrid amp._

 

Yes, my Woo GES took my SR-Lambda to a whole new level - enough that I don't miss my Lambda Signature at all. If I want to mix it up I can grab them or the ESP950, HE60 or O2 Mk2. Soon the JADE will be here too!

 Right now I am listening to the O2 Mk2 and Woo GES with a matched quad of cryo'd new issue Mullards and it sounds almost as good as the vintage quad of Telefunken smooth plates and GE "Wurlitzer" 12AX7, but less smooth vs Telefunken, less 3D image than the Wurlitzer tubes while not dark like the 12BZ7 that came with my GES.

 Next up, try the SR-Lambda and others with the new tubes...


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, did you like it?_

 

I'm not too sure, im still deciding. the bass was plenty for me, the mids were very very thick, and smooth, the detail was there, but for my hip-hop tracks, they didn't do enough isolation from what i was expecting, i cant say much about the treble, they seemed to be all mids. It was nice and smooht, and i don't think it would be fatiguing, I was expecting alot more in sound.

 They seemd to lack the X factor, but then I'm figuring things out still. like Im going to try _again_ corda cantate->MS-Pro, and see which i liked more. 

 i tried the following line-up

 Studer D730->SRM1/Mk2->Lambda nova Sigs.

 Thank yous, and great appreciation goes to John Buchanan in letting me audition at his house, thank you very much!!

 I will be thinking about it, they don't sound fatiguing, and are the most comfortable phones with good sound i heard, so i think they will be great for long listening sessions which i do an awful lot. 

 can the SRM1/Mk2 take 2 Stax's?


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, my Woo GES took my SR-Lambda to a whole new level - enough that I don't miss my Lambda Signature at all. 
 Next up, try the SR-Lambda and others with the new tubes..._

 

I haven't posted in this thread for a while, but you're killing me! I thought I was perfectly happy with my SRM I/MKII and now you have to go and tell me the Woo GES is perfect for the SR-Lambda. Maybe you are referring to the normal bias version and not the pro version I have. I really don't need to upgrade amps, right? I'm really not going to hear any improvement, right?

 I've actually tried my Lambda Pros with a KGSS and a Blue Hawaii and frankly wasn't that impressed. I was sure I could sit tight with the SRM 1. I might have to reconsider.


----------



## plaidplatypus

I tried the SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro, and SR-Lambda Sig with both the KGSS and SRM-007t. The SRM-007t was a much better match for all the Lambdas. The Woo GES has the best of both worlds with clarity more like the KGSS but with a nice tube sound that compliments the Lambdas.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't posted in this thread for a while, but you're killing me! I thought I was perfectly happy with my SRM I/MKII and now you have to go and tell me the Woo GES is perfect for the SR-Lambda. Maybe you are referring to the normal bias version and not the pro version I have. I really don't need to upgrade amps, right? I'm really not going to hear any improvement, right?

 I've actually tried my Lambda Pros with a KGSS and a Blue Hawaii and frankly wasn't that impressed. I was sure I could sit tight with the SRM 1. I might have to reconsider._

 

I am talking normal bias Lambda, not SR-Lambda Pro. My GES has normal and pro bias jacks because I liked my SR-Lambda and SR-5NB gold edition too much to not hear them on the new amp. I have owned the Lambda pro twice and sold it off twice due to disappointment when compared to the SR-Lambda normal and SR-Lambda Signature. I gave up the chance to buy an SRD-7 Mk2 Pro that I wanted because it came with an SR-Lambda Pro that I knew I would have to sell.

 The GES is better than SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, but your mileage may vary.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Thanks for the replies guys. However just a note; I'm using the Lambda Signatures, not the pro bias SR-Lambda, so I don't know if the generalization of just "Lambdas" applies for all cases.

 Well, FWIW, some describe the Signatures to have an upper midrange etch, however I am not bothered by it/can't detect it and I like how there is soo much treble energy and detail but it doesn't get piercing like say an '05 DT990... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I like how the Lambda Signature and ATH-ES7 has that slight treble bite and sparkle but doesn't overdo it. It adds some excitement but doesn't go overboard. I'm just hoping that the 717 doesn't take it overboard and make it sound piercing... you know... being SS and all... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ah heck, you guys have already convinced me to go ahead and get the 717... I think I might pull the trigger... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm gonna keep the T1 and do a side by side comparison and post back here in the future. Now I just need a few hundred more $ and I'll have a nice 717...


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not too sure, im still deciding. the bass was plenty for me, the mids were very very thick, and smooth, the detail was there, but for my hip-hop tracks, they didn't do enough isolation from what i was expecting, i cant say much about the treble, they seemed to be all mids. It was nice and smooht, and i don't think it would be fatiguing, I was expecting alot more in sound.

 They seemd to lack the X factor, but then I'm figuring things out still. like Im going to try again corda cantate->MS-Pro, and see which i liked more. 

 i tried the following line-up

 Studer D730->SRM1/Mk2->Lambda nova Sigs.

 Thank yous, and great appreciation goes to John Buchanan in letting me audition at his house, thank you very much!!

 I will be thinking about it, they don't sound fatiguing, and are the most comfortable phones with good sound i heard, so i think they will be great for long listening sessions which i do an awful lot. 

 can the SRM1/Mk2 take 2 Stax's?_

 

Gregg,
 that particular SRM 1 Mk 2 can take one pro bias phone and one normal bias phone. All modern Stax phones are pro bias. Vintage Stax are normal bias. Nice to have met you.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gregg,
 that particular SRM 1 Mk 2 can take one pro bias phone and one normal bias phone. All modern Stax phones are pro bias. Vintage Stax are normal bias. Nice to have met you._

 

The feeling is mutual, Im surprised I was the first, I know there is an awful lot of perth people that are headphone addicts, the ones are on Headphones.com.au Im surprised there hasn't been a perth meet. just as many of us as the people in sydney I reckon. 

 I also did some digging up on your source since people have said electrostatics are source dependant, I didn't know that source, was used for professional use. quite interesting.


----------



## Oublie

Folks,

 assuming that an srd normal bias adaptor is around 230v at the headphone connector and that a japanese normal bias srd7 is rectifying the 100v ac and multiplying it by 2.3 ish to get the bias supply. if i were to plug one of these into a uk ac mains 240v supply as long as the bias components are up to the job i would get around 550v dc on the bias - is this right or will i just get a big bang and if it is will this be enough to drive a pro bias phone?

 Now i would assume that the parts used in the japanese version are the same as those used in the international version with no change of voltage tolerance on the ic and should be good enough to handle 240volt at least as far the the rectifier so its really down to how highly specced the rest of the circuit is.

 Any thoughts on this or am i just a little strange ?


----------



## spritzer

There is a 100v zener limiter on the input voltage to the bias supply so it will never "see" anything but those 100v even if you feed it 230v. Now if you were to remove those diodes then it would output a higher voltage but the parts inside aren't rated for that so they would be damaged or even destroyed.


----------



## Oublie

Thanks Spritzer, so will it handle 240v without going pop even though its only rated for 100v ? ps. Don't you ever do any work?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Spritzer, so will it handle 240v without going pop even though its only rated for 100v ? ps. Don't you ever do any work? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Some of the older units are only voltage doublers with no limiter on the input (for the old 200v normal bias) so they may go pop. With Stax there is no way to know without checking the PCB...

 I work too much but I took the day off to finish some stuff that I have neglected to do.


----------



## piotr z

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried the SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro, and SR-Lambda Sig with both the KGSS and SRM-007t. The SRM-007t was a much better match for all the Lambdas. The Woo GES has the best of both worlds with clarity more like the KGSS but with a nice tube sound that compliments the Lambdas._

 

hopefully new two chassis amp. from Woo will ad also dynamics of BH


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of the older units are only voltage doublers with no limiter on the input (for the old 200v normal bias) so they may go pop. With Stax there is no way to know without checking the PCB...

 I work too much but I took the day off to finish some stuff that I have neglected to do._

 

I just like the idea of modding some of the older unit to run pro and normal bias. I'm going to be building a few high bias circuits soon so i may end up just dropping in a pro bias circuit and running it through a switch.

 Could do with a day off myself I sell computers and have been really really busy over the Christmas period. I could reallly do with a chill out day.


----------



## mark_h

Does anyone have the photo that used to accompany this post and would the bias adjustment account for the lack of volume to my right earspeaker? If not what could be causing it, i have done the external tests ie cables tracking etc. How do you know if one of the tubes needs replacing?

 "This is the procedure I got from a Stax tech. Believe me it was hard to get.

 All adjustments are to 0 volts.
 Adjustments for pots Tvr 3 & Tvr 4 .
 1- Tvr-3 put voltmeter leads between testpoints of Tp1(little silver circles on the board near each tube) and adjust tvr3 pot
 to 0 volts.
 2-Tvr4 put voltmeter leads between testpoints of tp2 and adjust to 0 volts.
 3- Tvr1 put one voltmeter lead to tp1the other to tp2 and adjust tvr1 to 0 volts.
 4- Tvr2 One voltmeter lead to tp1 the other to ground and adjust tvr2 to 0 volts.
 Repeat procedure for other channel.
 doesn't matter which channel you start with.
 You may have to repeat this procedure a few times untill tubes stabilize.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just like the idea of modding some of the older unit to run pro and normal bias. I'm going to be building a few high bias circuits soon so i may end up just dropping in a pro bias circuit and running it through a switch.

 Could do with a day off myself I sell computers and have been really really busy over the Christmas period. I could reallly do with a chill out day._

 

You could always build the SRD-7mk2 bias unit as it has both outputs. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have the photo that used to accompany this post and would the bias adjustment account for the lack of volume to my right earspeaker? If not what could be causing it, i have done the external tests ie cables tracking etc. How do you know if one of the tubes needs replacing?

 "This is the procedure I got from a Stax tech. Believe me it was hard to get.

 All adjustments are to 0 volts.
 Adjustments for pots Tvr 3 & Tvr 4 .
 1- Tvr-3 put voltmeter leads between testpoints of Tp1(little silver circles on the board near each tube) and adjust tvr3 pot
 to 0 volts.
 2-Tvr4 put voltmeter leads between testpoints of tp2 and adjust to 0 volts.
 3- Tvr1 put one voltmeter lead to tp1the other to tp2 and adjust tvr1 to 0 volts.
 4- Tvr2 One voltmeter lead to tp1 the other to ground and adjust tvr2 to 0 volts.
 Repeat procedure for other channel.
 doesn't matter which channel you start with.
 You may have to repeat this procedure a few times untill tubes stabilize._

 

You don't need a picture to go with that as it is all silk screened on the PCB. My guess is though that it isn't a problem with the biasing or the tubes but rather the phones them selfs. They could have developed the electret effect (where a charge sits on the diaphragm and impedes its movements) or there is something else wrong. Isn't this a new set so why not just take them back...


----------



## mark_h

Thanks, I think I will. Downer.


----------



## mark_h

Thanks for the info Spritzer, they were indeed what you said, electret-ed!


----------



## spritzer

There seems to be quite a bit of that going around. I blame Sennheiser and the HD800...


----------



## Oublie

Just ordered everything i need off RS to build a few 580v bias supplies. I put something in the diy section when i've got one built. Interestingly when i built the supply in Tina the output voltage was a lot lower than 580v I think thats something to do with the voltage being taken from the centre tap on the srd transformers in the scematic i followed so i tweaked the zeners to get as close as possible 580.47v to be precise however, the real world voltage will be different so i order a few extra zeners with different voltage ratings to make sure.

 I've also included a 1:1 isolation transformer prior to the 100k resistor.

 I'm also going to have a play with the srdx when i get a chance in the hope of making a minature version using a laptop battery with a higher voltage.

 Of course there is only one place that all this will lead


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just ordered everything i need off RS to build a few 580v bias supplies. I put something in the diy section when i've got one built. Interestingly when i built the supply in Tina the output voltage was a lot lower than 580v I think thats something to do with the voltage being taken from the centre tap on the srd transformers in the scematic i followed so i tweaked the zeners to get as close as possible 580.47v to be precise however, the real world voltage will be different so i order a few extra zeners with different voltage ratings to make sure.

 I've also included a 1:1 isolation transformer prior to the 100k resistor.

 I'm also going to have a play with the srdx when i get a chance in the hope of making a minature version using a laptop battery with a higher voltage.

 Of course there is only one place that all this will lead 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How does that work? I would love to have a 620V bias supply that can charge my Koss ESP950 when running off my Woo GES, or charge them when running off an SRD-7SB.


----------



## The Monkey

Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?


----------



## SoliloCey

can i ask whats the difference with the pro and normal bias other then physical propeties? 

 and does the sigma execute a normal bias, or pro bias?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does that work? I would love to have a 620V bias supply that can charge my Koss ESP950 when running off my Woo GES, or charge them when running off an SRD-7SB._

 

X 2. I think spritzer posted on this some time back but, like HeadphoneAddict, I'm interested in establishing a simple implementation that can allow me to run my existing GES and SRD7 outputs with 620v bias for the Koss.

 Also wouldn't mind a simple multi-bias supply unit (Norm/Pro/620v) with multiple outputs to keep all my stats charged up for use all the time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can i ask whats the difference with the pro and normal bias other then physical propeties? 

 and does the sigma execute a normal bias, or pro bias?_

 

Bias is Bias. Stax uses 230v Norm, 580v Pro. Koss uses 600v. AFAIK most ESPs have a 5% tolerance to variation in bias (e.g. Koss can run on 580v but also performs better (according to those who have tried it) at 620v).

 The Sigma ESP comes in both Norm and Pro bias versions. In addition some users have combined 404 drivers with a Sigma housing to create a Pro Bias Sigma 404.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

If I were in your place with 2 O2s? I'd put the money aside for another time, or i'd pop over to amazon or play and scoop up a basket of albums.

 If you need a choice from your two, I'd just pick the cheaper one.


----------



## The Monkey

No! I'm trying to figure out which one to sell!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Time to thin the herd a bit.


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

SR-303, but would prefer Signature or the original Lambda.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

I refuse to buy a 3rd Lambda Pro that I will have to sell again, so I guess it's the SR-303.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

are there any photos of the inside of an sr-lambda floating around? I'm looking for the diaphragm specifically. where the cable connects.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

I'd personally take the Lambda Pros. If I were faced with the decision of whether to sell those or the SR-303, however, I'd be inclined to sell the SR-303. If you ever wanted to acquire another SR-303, you could do so easily. The Lambda Pro seems harder to come by. Then again, perhaps it's my audio equipment hoarder mentality that has resulted in the acquisition of two Stax amps in less than a year with a GES on its way and a strong itch to acquire the SR-404.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does that work? I would love to have a 620V bias supply that can charge my Koss ESP950 when running off my Woo GES, or charge them when running off an SRD-7SB._

 

Building a bias supply like that isn't particularly hard, a transformer on the input and then a variable voltage doubler (like in the Gilmore amps) to step up the voltage. Then it is simply a matter of putting a voltage divider before each output to get the desired output voltage. The problem it to find a suitable transformer as you need a 300v+ output and how to put the box inline with the phones. An adapter like I made which leaches the bias from some other source could be the best option. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

I don't like either one as they both have issues. Can I answer SR-Lambda or Signature? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are there any photos of the inside of an sr-lambda floating around? I'm looking for the diaphragm specifically. where the cable connects._

 

Try this one and this one


----------



## Oublie

I've been looking into different option for creating a new bias as i have a normal only bias srm1 and would like to make one of the connections pro bias. I spoke with a few of the guys and looked at different methods used including the gilmore method that requires a 330v ac supply, the schematics for different stax equipment but decided the easiest way was to build a one design fits all and create something similar to the srd7 pro bias design. This will be a completely seperate pcb with two connections to the mains ac and a single connection to the headphone socket. I've enough parts to built a few - had to order 100 diodes as a job lot - so i'm planning to build a 230, 240, 580 and a 600v bias supply in order to test what difference it makes to the sound of the normal and pro phones. I may later make a single pcb with a switch to swap between zeners and an lcd to indcate voltage but first things first. This will be small enough to fit inside any of the srd's or amplifiers for that matter so i'm going to stick a pro bias supply in an srd4 just to see how it sounds.

 It would be very easy to put one of these into a higher end amp e.g kgss with normal bias or a pro and normal bias 717 it will be more or less plug and play 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll put something in the diy thread when i'm done - should be a couple of weeks or so - parts were ordered yesterday.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does that work? I would love to have a 620V bias supply that can charge my Koss ESP950 when running off my Woo GES, or charge them when running off an SRD-7SB._

 

For all intent there is no difference between 580 and 620. Even taking the voltage to 700 is extremely small.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a query to the group--given the choice, which would you take: Lambda Pro or SR-303?_

 

I am not a fan of the X0X series and I've owned them all. I really like the Lambda Pro (I have 3 sets). I have reviewed most of the Lambdas before. Do a search. The one quality that I do not like about the Lambda series is the upper midrange lower treble brightness. The LP has the least of the series along with the SR-Lambda. I know that it also sucks out the midrange but I don't like a forward midrange either. Just listen to a ESP950 then listen to most of the Lambda series and it will show the problem clearly. The 950 has a almost perfect tonal balance. It's funny how the LP was so loved a year or so ago (driving the price to around $500!) and now it's treated like a person child. I think that Stax sold more LP's with a SRM-1mk2 Pro than any other system in their history. Must be a reason.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's funny how the LP was so loved a year or so ago (driving the price to around $500!) and now it's treated like a person child._

 

I blame spritzer. I do agree with most of his comments about the sound of the LP. Unfortunately, I haven't heard enough Stax to say LP is worse than a lot of Stax.


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am talking normal bias Lambda, not SR-Lambda Pro. My GES has normal and pro bias jacks because I liked my SR-Lambda and SR-5NB gold edition too much to not hear them on the new amp. I have owned the Lambda pro twice and sold it off twice due to disappointment when compared to the SR-Lambda normal and SR-Lambda Signature. I gave up the chance to buy an SRD-7 Mk2 Pro that I wanted because it came with an SR-Lambda Pro that I knew I would have to sell.

 The GES is better than SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, but your mileage may vary._

 

I recently had the urge to get more into tubes so I bought the Little Dot MKIII. I figure for the price I couldn't go wrong considering there has been so much positive feedback on that amp.

 Since it's a pre-amp also would it make sense to use it from my source into the SRM-1/MKII? Maybe I could get a little tube goodness for my Lamda Pros on the cheap. Any reason not to try this?

 BTW, I just ordered yesterday so I won't have the amp for a little while yet.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try this one and this one_

 

spritzer, you really ARE a headphone God!! How long have you been in this hobby?


----------



## SoliloCey

spritzer how on earth does your mind retain all this information, and yet you can remember your head-fi pasword and username?


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IThe LP has the least of the series along with the SR-Lambda._

 

I am confused over model names. I have a Lamda with pro bias. It also has SR on the box and headphone. Is this a Lambda Pro, SR-Lambda, or SR-Lambda Pro (if there is such a thing)? It is from 1984. 

  Quote:


 It's funny how the LP was so loved a year or so ago (driving the price to around $500!) and now it's treated like a person child. I think that Stax sold more LP's with a SRM-1mk2 Pro than any other system in their history. Must be a reason. 
 

I _think_ that's what I have and I never could understand why some people don't like these. I think they have almost all the same qualities as the top end Stax, without some of the refinement, but without the pricetag either. I bought the amp and phones for $600. A steal, IMHO. What other amp and phone could get you this same level of sound quality? I think it's near impossible.


----------



## spritzer

I do think that you can do better within the Lambda range then the L-Pro's but they are still far better then most of the dynamic phones that people bicker about here every day. It may seem strange, especially for my lack of love for the L-Pro's, but the only Lambda I have left is a L-Pro though I never use them for listening, only testing amps. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer, you really ARE a headphone God!! How long have you been in this hobby?_

 

Too long...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am confused over model names. I have a Lamda with pro bias. It also has SR on the box and headphone. Is this a Lambda Pro, SR-Lambda, or SR-Lambda Pro (if there is such a thing)? It is from 1984. 



 I think that's what I have and I never could understand why some people don't like these. I think they have almost all the same qualities as the top end Stax, without some of the refinement, but without the pricetag either. I bought the amp and phones for $600. A steal, IMHO. What other amp and phone could get you this same level of sound quality? I think it's near impossible._

 

Erik, I agree completely. And I also still share some of your confusion about the nomenclature.

 Spritzer, what was that resistor doing in those Lambda pics?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Erik, I agree completely. And I also still share some of your confusion about the nomenclature.

 Spritzer, what was that resistor doing in those Lambda pics?_

 

I think it was established that these were silistors to limit input and prevent overdriving the phones with the transformer energisers (the SRD series). They are no longer included as the new phones are only supposed to be used with the Stax amplifiers (the SRM series). These apparently can't overdrive the phones. The silistors were present in my Stax Sigma.
 The Lambda Pro has a 5 pin plug (the Lambda has a 6 pin plug, which means it can't be inserted into the incorrect high bias socket). The correct name should be the Stax SR Lambda Professional. All their headphones are the SR series.
 From memory....
 UA tonearms
 CP cartridges
 ECP or POD equalisers/amplifiers for cartridges
 SR headphones
 SRD transformer energisers for headphones
 SRM power amplifiers for headphones
 SRA integrated amplifier for headphones
 DA power amplifier for speakers
 CA pre amplifier
 E electrostatic speakers


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Building a bias supply like that isn't particularly hard, a transformer on the input and then a variable voltage doubler (like in the Gilmore amps) to step up the voltage. Then it is simply a matter of putting a voltage divider before each output to get the desired output voltage. The problem it to find a suitable transformer as you need a 300v+ output and how to put the box inline with the phones. An adapter like I made which leaches the bias from some other source could be the best option. 
_

 

That's still all monkey-speak to me. I know nothing about DIY. I have to trade money for time in those cases.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently had the urge to get more into tubes so I bought the Little Dot MKIII. I figure for the price I couldn't go wrong considering there has been so much positive feedback on that amp.

 Since it's a pre-amp also would it make sense to use it from my source into the SRM-1/MKII? Maybe I could get a little tube goodness for my Lamda Pros on the cheap. Any reason not to try this?

 BTW, I just ordered yesterday so I won't have the amp for a little while yet._

 

I don't like to use anything extra in the audio chain that isn't needed. You have to decide if you need the tubey goodness or not. In the case of the SRD-X, yes, putting a tube amp between the source and stax is mandatory, but I am not sure the SRM-1 Mk2 II needs that.


----------



## edstrelow

I see that the Sigma/404 rebuilt by Spritzer is for sale on Audiogon for $850.00. I guess that's a fair price although I wouldn't sell mine.


----------



## John Buchanan

How many of these are there, Ed? You, me, Spritzer's and who else?


----------



## edstrelow

Unless memory fails me Spritzer mentioned seeing one for sale on E-Bay Japan. 

 That may be it for now. Of course nothing to stop anyone from making one, except getting the basic Sigma frame. I personally don't like to see a working Sigma cannibalized, it's like a desecration. The one I had redone was an original low bias phone in need of serious repair. And I picked up a new replacement, low bias, Sigma almost immediately since I couldn't stand to be without one. 

 The Sigma/404 is very close in my affection to the 007A. Sure the 007A has great detail and after a few mods a very nice frequency response characteristic, (not unlike the Sigma/404 but a little more bass) but it can't give the openess of sound that the Sigmas do. And yes the Sigma/404 is significantly better than the other Sigmas.


----------



## spritzer

There are some others that don't post much (if at all) but this is still a very rare headphone. I do like them but love my Omegas, simple as that...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently had the urge to get more into tubes so I bought the Little Dot MKIII. I figure for the price I couldn't go wrong considering there has been so much positive feedback on that amp.

 Since it's a pre-amp also would it make sense to use it from my source into the SRM-1/MKII? Maybe I could get a little tube goodness for my Lamda Pros on the cheap. Any reason not to try this?

 BTW, I just ordered yesterday so I won't have the amp for a little while yet._

 

I would try the LD MKIII as a pre-amp in the chain and see if you like it. I think the SRM-1/MK-2 sounds fine with lambdas just like it is. If you get a SRM-717 or SRM-727II in the future remember that they have a "Direct" mode that will bypass the voulme contol and use an external pre-amp without futher degrading the sound.


----------



## Duggeh

If you need to go super rare one could always make a Sigma with an Airbow driver.


----------



## spritzer

I've thought about it but I doubt it would be worth the roughly 1.3-1.5k$ it would cost. Another option would be to use LNS drivers...


----------



## edstrelow

I thought that the Sigma pro used the LS drivers. It came out in the same year as the Lambda Signature.


 This is a photo of an old advertising prop sent to me by the guy who sold me a pair of low bias Sigmas. It shows the headphone he sent me.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

sigmas look so awesome. I would love to hear a pair some day. they just scream BAD ASS CANS!! (in the good way)


----------



## spacemanspliff

spritzer;5299413 said:
			
		

> I do think that you can do better within the Lambda range then the L-Pro's but they are still far better then most of the dynamic phones that people bicker about here every day. It may seem strange, especially for my lack of love for the L-Pro's, but the only Lambda I have left is a L-Pro though I never use them for listening, only testing amps.
> 
> True. The entry level Lambdas are the normal bias and a SRD-7. Very decent for $300? Silly better than any dynamic I ever heard for the price. I did really enjoy some Darths, a Headphile 340 and k1000 but not like the $300 Lambda.
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought that the Sigma pro used the LNS drivers._

 

They were released in 1987 so they use the original Signature drivers (easy to spot from the outside due to the copper stators) and the normal width PC-OCC cable. The LNS didn't arrive until 1994 and uses the SR-Omega cable and the drivers are very different from the outside.


----------



## s1rrah

So I need Team Stax to chime in with some thoughts on the following:

 ...

 I've got a grand to spend on new cans and am having a hard time deciding on whether to stay with Grado's via a purchase of GS1000's (I already own and adore the RS1's) which appeal to me because I already know I love the Grado presentation and would enjoy the increased bass and soundstage when compared to my go-to RS1 cans.

 Or, would it be more sonically valuable/interesting in so far as an addition to my set up to invest in a Stax srs-3050ii system? A Stax system would integrate nicely since my Stello HP100 has a pre-amp stage which would be quite handy to feed the Stax with; my DAC, a Havana tube DAC would also probably be quite nice paired with the Stax.

 Otherwise, the Stax is attractive for some of the very same reasons I enjoy my RS1's ... speed, detail, low level resolution ... etc. But how would a Stax srs-3050ii system compare in regards to bass? Is the bass presentation adequate on the Stax srs-3050ii? Extended and deep?

 If anyone who is a fan of both Grados and Stax could comment on the above, I'd appreciate it ...

 Thanks ...

 .joel


----------



## spacemanspliff

The only Grados I liked were the pair of headphile hf1s that I had. Still, the sound stage of grados is tiny compared to stax. 

 Bass? My Lambda Stax rolled off around 35hz. I don't know what a rs1 stops at though.

 I like Stax more than any dynamic and I have tried most all dynamics.


----------



## SoliloCey

can someone give me ideas of affordabe less then $800 sources for stax please


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only Grados I liked were the pair of headphile hf1s that I had. Still, the sound stage of grados is tiny compared to stax. 

 Bass? My Lambda Stax rolled off around 35hz. I don't know what a rs1 stops at though.

 I like Stax more than any dynamic and I have tried most all dynamics._

 

Thanks for the reply(s) ...

 I went ahead and committed to buy the srs-3050ii Stax system ...

 Getting it at a very good price so should be able to re sell if it doesn't rock my world.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply(s) ...

 I went ahead and committed to buy the srs-3050ii Stax system ...

 Getting it at a very good price so should be able to re sell if it doesn't rock my world.




_

 

It will be really different. I know that. Most people will prefer the Stax.


----------



## donunus

anyone here interested in getting an almost new 2050 system? Ive posted it up for sale


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will be really different. I know that. Most people will prefer the Stax._

 

Different is what I'm shooting for ...

 I can't get enough of my RS1 dynamic rig with rock ... to my ear, anyway, it's unbelievably fine sounding.

 But moving into some of the larger scale classical works really tests the RS1's in regards to staging and dimension ... I'm hoping the Stax fits that niche for me and possibly even for certain of my other more low-key listening preferences (chamber, etc.).

 I'll post some thoughts here once I have it in my home.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *donunus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anyone here interested in getting an almost new 2050 system? Ive posted it up for sale 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

donunus what source do you use, do you use a DAC, if so do you play music through a DVD player or one of your laptops? is the source any good? 

 thanks


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can someone give me ideas of affordabe less then $800 sources for stax please_

 

You can't get a much better deal than this north star m192 mk1 on a'gon.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply(s) ...

 I went ahead and committed to buy the srs-3050ii Stax system ...

 Getting it at a very good price so should be able to re sell if it doesn't rock my world.




_

 

Joel,

 I think you're going about this the absolute right way. The SRS-3030 is a great system that ought to demonstrate what the Stax is capable of. I did a similar thing, acquiring a used SRS-2050 system knowing I could resell if I didn't like it. Though my previous phones weren't Grados (they were the HD-650s), I had the nagging desire to try the Stax. You can read all the reviews, but until you hear the Stax, you really can't judge for yourself. Having them at home to listen for extended periods is ideal as you can try different types of music. 

 As for me, my initial purchase of the SRS-2050 has evolved into several upgrades and unfortunately, I don't think I'm done yet. 

 Best of luck and hope you enjoy the Stax as I do.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

hey guys,

 I wrote a while back about hearing some static on the right side of my sr-lambdas. this only happens when I move the cord. I checked the cord out for shorts, but I dont see any damage. I did my best to isolate where the static comes from, and narrowed it to the base of the earcup. it seems a very unlikely place that a short would develop in the thickest part of the cord. so I opened up the lambda to see if I could spot an obvious loose wire or something. although the sound never cuts out, it only has some static when the cord is jiggled. anyway, I've included some pics of what I saw. I see there is some corrosion on one side of the wires. would this make a dif? also, is the nylon looking membrane on the driver there to protect it? it looks a bit out of shape as well.

 do any of you experienced lambda people spot anything that would be the cause of the static? or is it most likely the cord?

 anything I can do?


----------



## spritzer

The white nylon sheet is the back dustcover and it looks just fine. I can't see anything wrong with the connections so it is either the cable or the driver has some particle stuck inside it. There could be a hole in the other dust cover or the glue holding the drivers together could be failing. So many things that could have gone wrong but the static sound is usually tied to particle stuck inside the driver, shorting it out. One question, does the static sound remain even after the amp is turned off?


----------



## kintsaki

spritzer,

 I just got my Sigma Std. I like them a lot because of the flexible, functional, and simple design. I want to build a clone enclosure just like them and then experiment with adding various drivers. How do I take the drivers off. I took the speakers of the headband and unscrewed the four Phillips screws but the driver did not move.

 An additional question. Are these drivers similar to any of the Lambda drivers like for example the Signature or Lambda Pro etc. ? Can I use a fancy wire to re cable them?


----------



## bjarnetv

one of the "tips" that connects the headband to the speakers is also a screw, quite cleverly hidden.
 if i remember correctly the normal bias sigma uses lambda drivers, and the sigma pro uses a signature driver.


----------



## kintsaki

great thanks a lpt


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one of the "tips" that connects the headband to the speakers is also a screw, quite cleverly hidden.
 if i remember correctly the normal bias sigma uses lambda drivers, and the sigma pro uses a signature driver._


----------



## spritzer

There are also two screws hidden underneath the pads but you don't need to remove those. Any of the Lambda drivers fit but that doesn't mean they are easy to fit. 

 As for fancy wire... in needs to be able to handle 600v or so which is rarely the case.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The white nylon sheet is the back dustcover and it looks just fine. I can't see anything wrong with the connections so it is either the cable or the driver has some particle stuck inside it. There could be a hole in the other dust cover or the glue holding the drivers together could be failing. So many things that could have gone wrong but the static sound is usually tied to particle stuck inside the driver, shorting it out. One question, does the static sound remain even after the amp is turned off?_

 

Ok, I sat and tested a bit more to answer. I am using a srd-7sb if that makes any difference. There is never any static unless music is playing, and the cord is being moved. if I pause the cd with everything still on, and wiggle the right earpiece cord, no static. turn amp off, wiggle, nothing. if music is playing, and i'm sitting still, generally no static. I would have to test that further, but it seems that there is no static unless I'm effecting the right earpiece cord in some way.

 it really sounds like the cord problem you originally guessed. I just dont see any damage or evidence of misuse. again, the effected area is near the actual earpiece. what do you think?


----------



## -=Germania=-

Keith, I had the same thing on the pair that I got. 

 The cord needs the leads to be cut shorter and re-soldered. 

 It is pretty simple, just isolate where in the leads that you notice the noise by bending only small portions of the wire and listening for the static. Cut down to there and then resolder them on. 

 BTW: you also have a PM


----------



## spritzer

The Stax cables only break in two places, the strain relief that goes into the earpiece and the plug. Both are a pain to fix so I'd contact Yama's and ask if they have some spare 6 pin cables. I do doubt it though as Yama's hasn't been a distributor for _that_ long but a 5 pin cable will also work.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are also two screws hidden underneath the pads but you don't need to remove those. Any of the Lambda drivers fit but that doesn't mean they are easy to fit. 

 As for fancy wire... in needs to be able to handle 600v or so which is rarely the case._

 

1) How do I remove the pads? I am going to build an entirely new assembly including headband sub-assembly, ear pads, speaker enclosures and wiring. When I finish I will reassemble the original pair and end up with two pairs. (I will buy a set of drivers).

 2) Since the Lambda drivers are difficult to fit to the Sigma enclosures, may I assume that the drivers are different or that the driver frames are different? 

 This is important as I really have a problem with the treble etch you and DarthNut have a Love-Hate relationship with. In fact I think this problem manifests itself to a lesser degree in all stats and is the Achilles Heel of stats. I had the same problem with Acoustat speakers when driving them with Levinsons. It was minimized with the Audio Research D79 and Conrad Johnson and to a lesser degree with my bridged ML-2s.

 I do not know whether this is related to the planar geometry of stats. Beveridge employed the "line source lens" design, Martin Logan used a dynamic woofer, and Quad did not attempting to extend bass response. On the other hand Koss does not appear to have this problem but this may be because they do not attempt to drive the diaphragms hard enough to optimize impact (punch) or to extend bass response.

 I am ready to give up impact on the lower Octave to get rid off midrange edginess. 

 3) may I assume you refer to the insulation of the strands as opposed to the gauge? or you are also referring to geometry in order to minimize cable capacitance?


----------



## spritzer

1. They are glued on so you can just pull them off. Do it slowly and you'll manage to pull off most of the glue with the pads. 

 2. The drivers are the same size as the Lambda was just a modified Sigma. They are hard to mount as space is at a premium inside the chassis and the Lambda drivers have the wrong side up for mounting in a Sigma housing. The new drivers all based on PCB stators so all the contacts are just at the top of PCB but since the Sigma has the drivers mounted with the nylon mesh facing down then all the contacts are at the bottom and need to be insulated with about 1mm of clearance or less. This makes mounting them a pain as you have to fix the cable before you glue in the drivers. 

 3. Insulation is a necessity as you could damage the amp if the cable arced or just get shocked by them your self. The capacitance of the cable is also important and should be kept as low as you can since that value is added onto the drivers capacitance and only makes the phones harder to drive. 

 Bass response in planars is always difficult as you need excursion and a large surface area with a huge baffle to extend the wavelength. With headphones you don't have this problem as the phones have a closed baffle. The better they seal, the more bass you are going to get. The other issue is the build quality and strength of the housing. If the housing resonates like a bell then the drivers will too and this is mostly an issue with the bass, cleating some bass blob that no amount of power can fix. This is why the SR-007 housing is so strong (the former SR-Omega wasn't strong enough) and why Sound Lab came up with the U-1 with a welded steel frame that can be mass loaded to boot.


----------



## SoliloCey

Ive found a Marantz CD6002 for $460 will that be a good source fir stax?


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. They are glued on so you can just pull them off. Do it slowly and you'll manage to pull off most of the glue with the pads. 
 ........
 ........ _

 

Amazing!

 How can you respond to all of our questions with such articulate answers regardless of the
 time of day (and night perhaps...)

 I guess whoever called you God of Headphones (in a recent spot) knew what he was talking about.

 So here you have it: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 "Spritzer" a "Headphone Zeus"

 "kintsaki" a sinful mortal that is not particularly fond of his O2.


----------



## milkpowder

Impressive isn't it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Goodness knows how he knows so much...


----------



## spritzer

One does pick up a few things after having fixed up and modified dozens of Stax phones.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amazing!

 How can you respond to all of our questions with such articulate answers regardless of the
 time of day (and night perhaps...)_

 

I think he's actually been slacking off a bit and becoming somewhat lazy.

 I suspect that many recent questions aren't really challenging enough to be interesting to him, and some boredom might be the cause of the laziness. 

 I recall some impressive performances maybe about two years ago. Weird questions about obscure topics that few people could possibly know anything about, all answered and dealt with within hours.


----------



## Col12

Sorry to post out of the blue as a Newbie but was wondering if anyone can give me some advice? I posted this elsewhere but this might be a better thread to ask in.

 I have a pair of Stax Gamma Pro and SRD7SB that I have had for many years, but have not used them for a long time as the thin diaphrams of the Gammas Developed holes in many years ago reducing the volume and freqency response (I had a look inside). Also the headband if broken.

 I have recently found out after after all these years doing some research that this was the wrong type of adaptor for these Gamma Pros, - the SRD7SB being a "NORMAL" type 6 pin adapter and the Gamma Pros being a "PRO" type 5 pin connection which require different bias voltages. The shop that originally sold the adaptor and headphones to my Dad did not realise this.


 So my question is this: - although the 5 pin PRO plug of the headphones fits into the 6 pin NORMAL adaptor socket, - has the damage the diaphrams endured been due to this mismatch of does this type of damage occur naturally over time? Is it OK to use the 5 pin PRO plug in a 6 pin NORMAL adaptor or is it a real no no?

 Also was wondering (as I have tried in the UK and parts are not availiable anymore), - is it possible to still buy replacement parts anywhere at all, - I obviously need new diaphrams and headband for my Gamma Pros or they are junk?

 Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

 Colin


----------



## Comfy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"kintsaki" a sinful mortal that is not particularly fond of his O2._

 

Let us know when you've had enough of that horrible, horrible pair of earspeakers... Some of us might be willing to offer a hecatombe of euros for them...


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Col12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... the thin diaphrams of the Gammas Developed holes in many years ago reducing the volume and freqency response (I had a look inside). Also the headband if broken
 ... although the 5 pin PRO plug of the headphones fits into the 6 pin NORMAL adaptor socket, - has the damage the diaphrams endured been due to this mismatch?_

 


 Hey Colin, welcome to the right place.

 You've got two problems, and they may not be related. First off, don't worry about driving a "PRO" bias set off of a "NORMAL" bias adapter. It isn't harmful, but it's also not very effective. Going the other way around IS harmful, however, but it's harder to make that mistake.

 When earspeakers are driven too loud or too hard, they can "arc", sending bursts of electricity across the diaphragm and burning holes in it. Once the earspeakers start arcing a little bit, they arc faster and faster until they're more hole than not. As far as I know, this is irreparable damage, and to fix them you would need a new set of panels.

 Typically, this only happens at extremely high listening levels -- if yours degraded at lower listening levels, it may be the fault of the mismatched adapter. Not sure how that would be, though.


----------



## Col12

Hi Sherwood,
 Many thanks for you kind and very helpful reply.

 I agree it is strange that the Gamma Pro diaphrams have become damaged. The damage definitely happened when my father had them many years ago and he does not listen loud. Both of the diaphrams are indeed damaged, I had a look- one a fair bit wosre than the other, - quite big holes. And is is strange this happened at low volumes using a NORMAL bias adaptor.

 The only thing I can think of is that this particular "NORMAL" socketed adaptor is the SRD7SB model, - the self bias model, - and is non mains powered unlike most of the others, - perhaps this Self biasing energiser damages PRO headphones more easily?, but I am just guessing!

 I assume there is nowhere now you can buy new Gamma Pro Diaphrams and no way to repair them?

 Many thanks again,
 Colin

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Colin, welcome to the right place.

 You've got two problems, and they may not be related. First off, don't worry about driving a "PRO" bias set off of a "NORMAL" bias adapter. It isn't harmful, but it's also not very effective. Going the other way around IS harmful, however, but it's harder to make that mistake.

 When earspeakers are driven too loud or too hard, they can "arc", sending bursts of electricity across the diaphragm and burning holes in it. Once the earspeakers start arcing a little bit, they arc faster and faster until they're more hole than not. As far as I know, this is irreparable damage, and to fix them you would need a new set of panels.

 Typically, this only happens at extremely high listening levels -- if yours degraded at lower listening levels, it may be the fault of the mismatched adapter. Not sure how that would be, though._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he's actually been slacking off a bit and becoming somewhat lazy.

 I suspect that many recent questions aren't really challenging enough to be interesting to him, and some boredom might be the cause of the laziness. 

 I recall some impressive performances maybe about two years ago. Weird questions about obscure topics that few people could possibly know anything about, all answered and dealt with within hours._

 

Damn right, throw me something challenging to do.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Col12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assume there is nowhere now you can buy new Gamma Pro Diaphrams and no way to repair them?_

 

You might try placing a call to Yamas Inc.

 Yama's Enterprises, Inc. 
 16617 S. Normandie Ave., STE C 
 Gardena, CA 90247-5457 
 Tel: 310-327-3913 Fax: 310-324-7422 
 info [at] yamasinc.com 

 They're the North American Distributor for Stax products, and they may have Gamma drivers and assemblies (though I really doubt it).

 The Self-Biasing adapter looks exactly the same as a mains-biased adapter to the headphone, so I doubt the fact that it's an SB had anything to do with it. More likely, given the age of the phones and their previous use, they were accidentally blasted with speaker listening volumes sometime in their history. Tough to say.

 If you cannot repair the gamma, and are still interested in Stax, you should keep a look out for a set of old normal bias SR-Lambda earphones on here, audiogon and ebay. If you look for awhile you can find them for about $200, and they're all sorts of awesome. They'll work properly with your SRD-7SB, and sound better than most everything else in the price range.


----------



## mypasswordis

You've posted the same question four times.


----------



## Oublie

One of the reasons stax stopped making the energizer boxes was because of issues with arcing head speakers. I however, have a few of these driving different cans and have yet to have any problems. You won't be getting anywhere near proper sound quality from a pro on a normal 230v bias but if anything I would probably blame a faulty energizer rather than the low bias. (i have 2 of em and have had no issues so far) BTW what amp were you driving them with and what's its rms wattage?


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn right, throw me something challenging to do._


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn right, throw me something challenging to do._

 

Easy design a better amp than the Blue Hawaii SE using easily gotten parts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 And give us the schematic!


----------



## Keithpgdrb

design an equal or superior replacement cable for the normal bias stax cans. They will be needed!!

 and make it really easy to get. (i'm still waiting to hear back from a stax rep from weeks ago...)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Easy design a better amp than the Blue Hawaii SE using easily gotten parts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 And give us the schematic!_

 

That's not going to happen as all the good parts are going out of production along with the CRT monitors.


----------



## Col12

Hi Guys,
 thanks again for your great help.
 Sherwood you must be right, - the headphones must have been turned up to a stupid level at some point causing the membrane damage.

 It seems pretty pointless to try repairing the Gamma Pros really, - not cost effective. I will look for a NORMAL bias headphone second hand.

 Many thanks for the tip, - so a good match for my Normal bias SRD7SB energiser is a pair of NORMAL (i.e. non Pro) Lambdas, - and a quick look around confirms this, many people prefereing them over the lambda Pros. Are they pretty common/quite easy to find, - the price you mentioned sounds very reasonable. I need a pair!

 And Oublie thanks for your info. I am really glad I got to the bottom of this. Why the shop my Dad bought the Gamma Pros from sold him a 230v bias adaptor instead of a 580V adaptor is a mystery! Interesting you say the sound would not be that good. They are and always were VERY thin and tinny sounding, - hardly any bass at all, - is this why?!!


 My Dad drove them with a Naim NAP250 70WPC amp. I have a choice of amps tube of varying powers now.

 All the best and thanks again,
 Colin



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You might try placing a call to Yamas Inc.

 Yama's Enterprises, Inc. 
 16617 S. Normandie Ave., STE C 
 Gardena, CA 90247-5457 
 Tel: 310-327-3913 Fax: 310-324-7422 
 info [at] yamasinc.com 

 They're the North American Distributor for Stax products, and they may have Gamma drivers and assemblies (though I really doubt it).

 The Self-Biasing adapter looks exactly the same as a mains-biased adapter to the headphone, so I doubt the fact that it's an SB had anything to do with it. More likely, given the age of the phones and their previous use, they were accidentally blasted with speaker listening volumes sometime in their history. Tough to say.

 If you cannot repair the gamma, and are still interested in Stax, you should keep a look out for a set of old normal bias SR-Lambda earphones on here, audiogon and ebay. If you look for awhile you can find them for about $200, and they're all sorts of awesome. They'll work properly with your SRD-7SB, and sound better than most everything else in the price range._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One of the reasons stax stopped making the energizer boxes was because of issues with arcing head speakers. I however, have a few of these driving different cans and have yet to have any problems. You won't be getting anywhere near proper sound quality from a pro on a normal 230v bias but if anything I would probably blame a faulty energizer rather than the low bias. (i have 2 of em and have had no issues so far) BTW what amp were you driving them with and what's its rms wattage?_


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Easy design a better amp than the Blue Hawaii SE using easily gotten parts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 And give us the schematic!_

 

I was going to ask the exact same thing but I felt it would not be appropriate after all the help he has given us.

 I am just going to try another approach (not the super duper amp) and see If I can address the problem in the headphone enclosure geometry and the driver technology. The Appagees were fast and at the same time punchy.


----------



## mark_h

Rudistor make some very good alternatives. Though I doubt I will ever hear either to compare. The Egmont signature comes in at a cool €2950 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Has anyone had the good fortune to compare this to a Blue Hawaii?


----------



## Sherwood

Spritzer has (unsurprisingly) built his own Egmont, as the design is public domain from the '60s. He says it's a good design, and has a lot of potential, but it's nowhere near the BH.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer has (unsurprisingly) built his own Egmont, as the design is public domain from the '60s. He says it's a good design, and has a lot of potential, but it's nowhere near the BH._

 

Do you happen to have a link to this design?


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer has (unsurprisingly) built his own Egmont, as the design is public domain from the '60s. He says it's a good design, and has a lot of potential, but it's nowhere near the BH._

 

I bow my head in reverence!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you happen to have a link to this design?_

 

This is the same design without the truly horrible PSU which Rudi uses. Mine is a rather different amp though with far better tubes (ECC99's for the driver stage and 6S4A's as the output stage) so I can run them at a higher voltage. It's a good amp but only if you judge it by what it cost me to build (roughly 400$) so paying 3000€ for one is just insane. It's definitely not a good amp for Omegas, even with my PSU and much higher rail voltages so much better suited to the Lambdas. I really should finish building it to that I can try the Jade I just got on it...


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is the same design without the truly horrible PSU which Rudi uses. Mine is a rather different amp though with far better tubes.... I can try the Jade I just got on it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

but is it better than the SRM-717 ???

 My Jade plug got stack somewhere on its way from China. Thank God the Jade itself arrived safely.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but is it better than the SRM-717 ???_

 

To some perhaps which like a more colored approach and underpowered phones but it isn't even close to my ears. The 717 is the best amp you can buy at the price though I could build an ES-1 for the same price with two PSU's which could be an interesting comparison. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Jade plug got stack somewhere on its way from China. Thank God the Jade itself arrived safely._

 

That sucks. I could have just made one for you or sent you a Stax male plug.


----------



## Oublie

Something that had me wondering recently was how the big guys do it? I.e. the electrostatic speaker brigade and how do they drive them. Are they using super stat amps i.e. bigger versions of what we use or is the technology different. I wonder if some of the ideas or technologies they use could be adapted for headphone use for example running hundred of volts rather than thousands? I know of one guy out there who builds his own stats and bias supplies and is using transformers in other words a big energizer but are there other options?


----------



## Faust2D

One word, transformers.....


----------



## spritzer

Almost all use transformers but there have been a few direct drive amps as well. Beveridge and Acoustat both sold speakers with built in amps and there are quite a few after market solutions that have popped up over the years.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I have a question regarding stax cables. what makes the ribbon cable superior to a typical round cable? I have heard this about the sr5nb as well. I am still considering replacing my cable with the sr-202, but I am having trouble finding someone who will say they can get it. they all just tell me that a pro cable wont work with my cans, and dont give me an answer on price or availability. Spritzer said that the cable is the same as the sr-lambda, with a pro plug, which will still work. Gurus? please enlighten.

 Spritzer - I just noticed that there is no sr-lambda in your sig, but there is an sr-pro? sup?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do think that you can do better within the Lambda range then the L-Pro's but they are still far better then most of the dynamic phones that people bicker about here every day. It may seem strange, especially for my lack of love for the L-Pro's, but the only Lambda I have left is a L-Pro though I never use them for listening, only testing amps._

 

It looks like they are sacrificial STAX.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like they are sacrificial STAX._

 

I always thought he used the SR-003 for that. It's better this way because I like the SR-003 more than a Lambda Pro...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question regarding stax cables. what makes the ribbon cable superior to a typical round cable? I have heard this about the sr5nb as well. I am still considering replacing my cable with the sr-202, but I am having trouble finding someone who will say they can get it. they all just tell me that a pro cable wont work with my cans, and dont give me an answer on price or availability. Spritzer said that the cable is the same as the sr-lambda, with a pro plug, which will still work. Gurus? please enlighten._

 

The flat cable has lower capacitance and possible better copper. The capacitance is important as the value is added on top of the capacitance presented by the drivers making the phones harder to drive. 

 The 5 pin cable will work on a 6 pin headphone as there is no difference. The bias is tied to 1 pin instead of two in the 6 pin plug but they are also joined on the inside of the socket so it doesn't matter. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer - I just noticed that there is no sr-lambda in your sig, but there is an sr-pro? sup?_

 

I never listen to the Lambdas so I sold all the normal bias ones. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like they are sacrificial STAX._

 

That would be the headphone that has the privilege to check if the bias is correct and if there is any hum and the SR-003 has that honor. The Lambda Pro comes in after that.


----------



## -=Germania=-

spritzer,

 you are entirely right about the value. While high end electrostatics are very expensive, the average Stax on the market will outperform a Dynamic system of the same price point or at least from the 4 different sets of Lambda frames I have heard (2 from transformer boxes (normal+pro) , one from a basic SS Stax amp (202, 404), one from a high end SS Stax amp (pro), and one from a Tubed Stax amp(404)). Best value is definately from SRD-6/7 wall powered transformers with the potential to find a real sleeper vintage amp to pair it with. 

 The SR-5 are a good deal for the cash as well while running under $175 for a transformer box and headphone in good shape. Add a T-AMP for under $100 and you have a under $300 that blows anything that price out of the water. 

 Really, I don't understamd the price complaints or views as "high end". Entry cost may be more, but that is it in my mind.

 Still, I would like to have heard more of the electrostatics out there with having heard only the SR-5, SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro, 202's, 404's, HeAudio Jade, O2 II, He60, and He90. The last four are obviously not going to be value leaders and are not the "average" electrostats at all. 

 My $0.02


----------



## Duggeh

^ Good to see you've finally been given an MOT sticker.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Sweet - I asked for mine back in July/August. They were busy with MOT tags - maybe this is part of the update. Nice!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet - I asked for mine back in July/August. They were busy with MOT tags - maybe this is part of the update. Nice!_

 

Has your user name always been split up and spanned 2 lines?


----------



## Duggeh

It isn't on my screen.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict




----------



## catscratch

I use the 003 as a disposable headphone to test potential problems as well, but only because of its price. There's nothing disposable about the 003's performance. It does some things so well that even the best of the best have a hard time keeping up with it, though overall of course it's not nearly in the same league.


----------



## mark_h




----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

How cute, awwww...


----------



## mark_h

The headphones are adorable aren't they!


----------



## fishpatrol

Just received my membership card in the form of an SR-001mk2 bought second-hand from another Head-Fier, and I'm loving everything except the fit. Have people found success using off-brand eartips to get a proper seal without pushing that stack of quarters into your earlobes? An afternoon of listening and I'm already hurting.


----------



## krmathis

fishpatrol. Welcome to the Stax world!
 Sadly you're not the only one complaining about the S-001MK2's wearing comfort. Bending the headband, or using them without the headband help a bit and worth a try.

 They sound really great, especially for a portable system, so its a shame Stax don't make them more comfortable.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fishpatrol* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my membership card in the form of an SR-001mk2 bought second-hand from another Head-Fier, and I'm loving everything except the fit. Have people found success using off-brand eartips to get a proper seal without pushing that stack of quarters into your earlobes? An afternoon of listening and I'm already hurting._

 

Yes, welcome. Krmathis is correct; it is an ongoing issue for some (although I've been one of the lucky ones and can enjoy them, with the headband adjusted for me).

 There was at least one thread discussing alternate tips some time ago (and perhaps even within the two Stax Threads themselves). Do a search and I'm sure you'll find plenty of discussion, just scattered around the place I think.

 e.g.
The Stax thread (New) - Page 347 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/tip...-001-a-315541/
The Stax SRM-001 mod thread - Page 8 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

 Hope you find something that works for you.


----------



## catscratch

Use the headband, and use the large-sized tips. They won't go into the ear canals but rest outside the ear canals. Then, bend the headband so that it exerts the minimum amount of clamping pressure to stay in place.

 There may be some slight degradation in sound quality, so you'll have to mess around with pad size, positioning, and clamping force.

 I never really got used to it TBH. The fit still bothers me to this day. But, you can make it if not comfortable, then at least bearable. I have more of a problem wearing universal-fit IEMs.


----------



## s1rrah

The Stax system showed up today ...

 I'm pretty stoked ...

 ...







 ...






 ...






 ...

 I'm going to spend a couple weeks deciding whether I keep it or not ...

 As discussed with a couple other Head-fi folk ... it's between keeping this and purchasing some Grado GS1000's ...

 So lots of listening and considering to do.

 But right out of the box ...

 WOW! What an insane and unbelievable sound stage compared to my RS1's!

 Really ... the sound stage on these things is down right supernatural sounding. 

 I didn't get it at first ... rather I wanted to focus on some of the nit picky, immediate and quibbling "negative" aspects compared to the RS1's (little less bass extension and impact ... mids a tiny bit more recessed than the Grados, etc.) ... but after spending an hour with them on my head ... those minor quibbles fade more and more into the background since the GIANT increase in soundstage is so damn fine sounding on my classical stuff and especially on my live boots and live CD recordings.

 Also ... they are nearly as meticulous in the detail category as the RS1's ... but just slightly less; but the flip side is that the increased spatial performance (sound stage/3D imaging/etc.) still makes certain aspects of certain recordings stand out in a much more beautiful and noticeable way than the more narrow, slightly more detailed RS1's ... 

 All of that stated ... I'm also very very enthralled by the similarities shared between the Stax rig and my dynamic, Grado RS1 based rig: insane speed and detail, palpable energy and dynamics ... and a very real sense of being "close to the players" (versus, say, the uber distanced, somewhat veiled window that certain other cans yield). Both the Stax option and the RS1 option shine in the energy/"magic" department for sure ...

 So lots of thinking to do ... and I've only been listening for an hour ... but as I expressed to the guy who sold me this MINT, 1300 dollar (for $750!) Stax system (with only 200 or so hours on it) ... it is, without a doubt ... a very serious competitor when sat next to my $1700 dollar, regular dynamic setup (Stello HP100/Grado RS1's) ...

 So more later ...


----------



## SoliloCey

^Im getting STAX then RAWR. the pro's i tried are pretty much a variant of the RS-1's


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax system showed up today ...

 I'm pretty stoked ...




 Also ... they are nearly as meticulous in the detail category as the RS1's ... but just slightly less; but the flip side is that the increased spatial performance (sound stage/3D imaging/etc.) still makes certain aspects of certain recordings stand out in a much more beautiful and noticeable way than the more narrow, slightly more detailed RS1's ... 

 So lots of thinking to do ... and I've only been listening for an hour ... but as I expressed to the guy who sold me this MINT, 1300 dollar (for $750!) Stax system (with only 200 or so hours on it) ... it is, without a doubt ... a very serious competitor when sat next to my $1700 dollar, regular dynamic setup (Stello HP100/Grado RS1's) ...

 So more later ...




_

 

I think you'll find that your new setup is superior to the RS1 in almost every way, including detail.


----------



## mypasswordis

I agree with The Monkey, and to add to that, bass extension. Impact, not so much.


----------



## vcoheda

the RS1 and grados in general are near unbeatable for percussion and acoustic guitar.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the RS1 and grados in general are near unbeatable for percussion and acoustic guitar._

 

Having listened to my RS1 based, dynamic rig for well nigh a year now ... generally about 300 hours a week ...

 I would have to agree ...

 But the new Stax system which I mention above and which I've been listening too for about three hours now ... is 100% better in regards to sound stage and 3D imaging ...

 That doesn't necessarily meant I'm going to get rid of my dynamic system ...

 But more so ...

 It means I might keep the Stax system and continue to add to/enhance my dynamic rig ...

 (yes ... the Stax rig is getting me pretty hot and bothered)


----------



## Victor Chew

Like many, I also have both the electrostatic and dynamic headphone setups. I find myself listening to the stax quite alot more. I can listen to it for hours and not feel the need to take them off. It is not that the sound of dynamic headphones is not good, but as a matter of preference for me, I always find my hands reaching out for the stax. But that is just me. All I can say is that I find them very sweet sounding.


----------



## s1rrah

BTW ...

 Do the SR-303 headphones require much break in? How about the amps? 

 ??


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the RS1 and grados in general are near unbeatable for percussion and acoustic guitar._

 

Have to agree, but they don't seem to have the versatility of the Stax?


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW ...

 Do the SR-303 headphones require much break in? How about the amps? 

 ??_

 

Stax Germany recommends around 50 hours for the headphones, in my experience it takes about double that amount of time (a very rough estimation, and some very small changes may still occur after 100 hours). I've been through the process of breaking in 3 pairs of 303 drivers. I don't remember the breaking in time of the amp, but I think those 100 hours should do. Amp warm up is very important, on the other hand, and I consider 45-60 minutes on with music playing a minimum for my 313 warm up. Usually I let it on anything between 1 hour and 4 hours, then I play some music for 10-15 minutes and only then I put on my Stax phones. The sound is at least acceptable without any warming up, but the magic comes only after a while.


----------



## milkpowder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-303, but would prefer Signature or the original Lambda._

 

I don't think I like the Signature at all. It is far too unnatural sounding. Upper mids jump out like they do on a RS-1 or RS-2 which is no problem on its own. What kills it for me is the added etch. Violins sound thin, shouty and shrill.

 I'm not sure owning the O2 necessarily makes the Lambda Pro redundant. The Lambda Pro still has its own merits and don't sound quite as dark. On certain setups, I actually prefer the Lambda Pro despite its shortcomings.


----------



## Oublie

I Would say the best of the bunch is the Normal Bias lambda followed closely by the Original Signature. I have all three and would say that imho the signature has the better qualities of the normal bias with the extra bass of the pro's. The pro isnt a bad phone in fact better than any dynamic i've heard (not that i've auditioned that many) but the other two are slightly better. I don't hear the etch that is so commonly spoken about and i'm not sure if this is intensified by other equipment in the chain or by certain music genre's.


----------



## SoliloCey

stupid question, which headphones are normal bias?


----------



## Oublie

Stax Earspeakers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 This has most of the gear listed.


----------



## vvanrij

Hmm I need some help please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My SRM-323II + SR-404 is showing some problems today. My right ear gets much more volume. The following experiments followed:

 -Switched the headphone on my head, and yes now the left ear was louder, so it is not my ears
 -Switched source, same problem
 -Switched plug, same problem
 -Switched RCA's, still the same ear, so its definetly not the source, but either the amp or the headphone

 I only have 1 headphone with Pro bias, so I can't test if it is the amp or the headphone. If I turn the volume up, the problem gets worse (the in-balance gets worse). Offcourse I can adjust it with the volume knob, but as I said the inbalance gets worse if I turn the volume up (and less when I turn it down), so its not a constat error, so I can't just 're-calibrate it'. Furthermore, the equipment is just about 2 weeks old, and it didn't have this problem before. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stupid question, which headphones are normal bias?_

 

All the really old ones...
 SR-1, SR-2, SR-3, SR-X, SR-3 New, SR-X/MK2, SR-5, SR-X/MK3, SR-Sigma, SR-Lambda, SR-5N, SR-5NB, SR-Gamma and SR-Alpha.

 Hope I did not forget any.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm I need some help please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It could be either of them (amplifier or headphone), and a bit hard to guess. But, you still have the SRD-7 right? If so, then hook up the SR-404 to it and check out if you can reproduce the channel imbalance.
 If its even balanced, and the SR-X/MK3 is even balanced as well, then you have pretty much eliminated the 'phone.


----------



## vvanrij

Good point, I will try that too. But... eliminated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




!!! Its not even 2 weeks old, how could I possibly have done that.


----------



## mark_h

/\ I had that problem with my o2's, *Spritzer* suggested that they might be suffering from the electret effect where the charge sits on top of the diaphragm and impedes its movement. He was, as usual, right. I took them back to the dealer they swapped them over there and then.


----------



## vvanrij

If I softly push on the left earcup while listening, I get like half a second normal volume sound, then it turns soft again. If I push on the right earcup, nothing happens (no volume change). So that is weird too...


----------



## Oublie

Sounds like the cans they are too new to have these sort of issues get them replaced


----------



## s1rrah

Well no chance that I'm going to sell my new Stax rig ...

 It's seriously freaking me out and is a permanent addition to my home rig now (until I start working my way up the Stax food chain that is) ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been listening for the past day or so (seriously ... about 20 hours) ... and all I can say is that my live recordings have been insanely transformed for the better ... the spatiousness and effortless image is unbelievable. Also ... classical, jazz and especially electronic/ambient (think Low, Tortoise, etc.) is no longer an option with my RS1's as the Stax is so damn huge and 3D sounding in comparison ...

 I'm certainly going to keep my dynamic rig ... one, because running out of the Stello's preamp sounds better than straight from my DAC for some reason ... and two ... because I still love the Grado sound ... but I think I'm going to sell my RS1's and get some GS1000's as the Stax soundstage has infected me with the need for more of the same in regards to my dynamic set up ... 

 Anyway ... another new devotee is born ...


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well no chance that I'm going to sell my new Stax rig ...

 It's seriously freaking me out and is a permanent addition to my home rig now (until I start working my way up the Stax food chain that is) ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been listening for the past day or so (seriously ... about 20 hours) ... and all I can say is that my live recordings have been insanely transformed for the better ... the spatiousness and effortless image is unbelievable. Also ... classical, jazz and especially electronic/ambient (think Low, Tortoise, etc.) is no longer an option with my RS1's as the Stax is so damn huge and 3D sounding in comparison ...

 I'm certainly going to keep my dynamic rig ... one, because running out of the Stello's preamp sounds better than straight from my DAC for some reason ... and two ... because I still love the Grado sound ... but I think I'm going to sell my RS1's and get some GS1000's as the Stax soundstage has infected me with the need for more of the same in regards to my dynamic set up ... 

 Anyway ... another new devotee is born ...




_

 

yes, very revealing of the difference between bad, good recordings and GREAT recordings. the real test comes after a few months when you discover that, my gosh, i'm really not getting tired of these!

 the flip side of this is once you've had "X" "Y" doesn't sound so good now. not to mention i don't let the wife have them, so i'm shopping for another set for her... you know the drill, if you don't you will <grin>!


----------



## dickbianchi

Hi, I need some opinions here.

 I just bought a srm-007t amp, for which I need some relatively affordable phones. Based on what I've read in various places, I was thinking 404s.

 I thought I also remembered from these pages that some of you think there is no essential difference between the 404 and the 303 (different cabling apparently not making much of a difference.) The six moons guy said pretty much the same thing, maybe just a jot more transpanency in the 404s but not worth the extra dough. 

 Is this a consensus or do some of you think the 404s are worth the exta hundred or so bucks. 

 I know there are a lot of other options, some of which I've seen on the sale/trade pages, but they were all CONUS. I want to have a pair of phones by the time my amp arrives, so I will probably buy new ones, and affordable right now means 304 or 404.

 So: are the 404's worth it?


----------



## vvanrij

Well I might just be crazy, but I just had to have the 404, if I had the 303 I would be like, hmm, I wonder how that 404 would sound.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRM-323II + SR-404 is showing some problems today. My right ear gets much more volume._

 


 I assume you have been letting the phones sing in open air for a few days as "burn-in", no?


----------



## vvanrij

Yes I did


----------



## vvanrij

Any chance I could fix this myself, or is that hopeless? They want me to send it up (back to hongkong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) so thats gonna cost me alot of money (shipping etc.) and time... I'm well pissed tbh.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I might just be crazy, but I just had to have the 404, if I had the 303 I would be like, hmm, I wonder how that 404 would sound._

 

And my response might be: I spent a lot more for the 404. Maybe the 303 might have done just as well. I should have asked on HeadFi the opinions of some who experienced both of them what Im getting for the extra money.

 This probably wont be the last stax phones I buy.


----------



## AudioCats

I guess playing in free air for extented period is ok for some phones such as the SR-Lambda, as long as the drivers are dampened by the material in the ear cup. But for free vibrating drivers such as the ones in the ESP950, that might cause one of the drivers to sound differently over time. 

 Once this problem has developed, it will never really go away, though can be cured to a degree that it is tolerable.

 so, try this:
 1) unplug the phones from the amp and touch all 5 pins with your thumb, at the same time. this will discharge the phones.
 2) let the phones sit for a day.
 3) repeat step one.
 4) find a pillow that has thick cover material (such as fleece, thick cotton fabric, leather, etc). Put the pillow in between the ear cups, make sure the ear pads are making contact with the pillow cover, all the way around.
 5) plug the phones into the amp and run it at mid to high volumn for a few days (i.e. resume the burn-in process, but this time with the pillow).

 This should ameliorate the problem a bit, though I am not sure whether it will restore your 404's back to where it was. Anyway, you have nothing to lose, try it and see how it goes.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And my response might be: I spent a lot more for the 404. Maybe the 303 might have done just as well. I should have asked on HeadFi the opinions of some who experienced both of them what Im getting for the extra money.

 This probably wont be the last stax phones I buy._

 

For what it's worth (or not so) ... this guy, who seems to be pretty dedicated to listening ... has to really struggle to hear any differences:

*6Moons 303 vs. 404 Revew*

 But he does come clean with some details that are quibbling but interesting ...

 ...

 Anyway ...

 The Stax system has ruined me.

 I've already put my RS1's up for sale (only so that I can buy the GS1000's which, hopefully, will come close to the intoxicating sound stage of the Stax).

 Gotta have a dynamic and gotta have a stat rig; color me picky ... but the RS1's have got to yield to a higher order of Grado (I know, I know ... debatable, so save your flame) ... and, I'm hoping the GS1000's will open up the dynamic side of my listening a bit ...

 Till then, ... I'm full time on the new Stax rig.

 Yummy ...

 BTW:

*If anyone likes Ryan Adams and the Cardinals ...*

 You might be interested in the .FLACS available from the www.archive.org website (where they archive their shows) ...

 In all seriousness ... listening to this show, from Das Hauss, in Germany ... back in 2006 (just last night) ... is what cemented my Stax fan boi status:

*See THIS .FLAC for a demo:* "Blue Hotel"

 Otherwise ... you can download the entire set of .FLACS at the following page at the archive.org site:

 ...

Ryan Adams, Live in Germany 2006

 ...

 The recording is utterly perfect. You can hear the snare taps bounce off the back wall of the house ...

 Just a kind Stax friendly listening suggestion ...


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For what it's worth (or not so) ... this guy, who seems to be pretty dedicated to listening ... has to really struggle to hear any differences
*6Moons 303 vs. 404 Revew*But he does come clean with some details that are quibbling but interesting ... :_

 

Thanks I did read that and he was pretty convincing. And I have read some opinion that supported it on these pages. Mostly I was wondering if anyone who had experience with both disagreed and felt the 404 was worth it, maybe because of better build, better asthetics, better fit, better whatever.

 Glad your enjoying your stax stuff. Much as I enjoy the 34 electret set and the "baby stax" portable, I look forward to the new equipment.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess playing in free air for extented period is ok for some phones such as the SR-Lambda, as long as the drivers are dampened by the material in the ear cup. But for free vibrating drivers such as the ones in the ESP950, that might cause one of the drivers to sound differently over time._

 

This is just a myth which has no standing. The mylar is as tight as a drum, already stretched and heat-treated to the limit so it will not be stretched by the weak forces found in the phones.


----------



## vvanrij

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so, try this:
 1) unplug the phones from the amp and touch all 5 pins with your thumb, at the same time. this will discharge the phones.
 2) let the phones sit for a day.
 3) repeat step one.
 4) find a pillow that has thick cover material (such as fleece, thick cotton fabric, leather, etc). Put the pillow in between the ear cups, make sure the ear pads are making contact with the pillow cover, all the way around.
 5) plug the phones into the amp and run it at mid to high volumn for a few days (i.e. resume the burn-in process, but this time with the pillow)._

 

Thank you for the advice, I'm currently at step 2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotta have a dynamic and gotta have a stat rig; color me picky ... but the RS1's have got to yield to a higher order of Grado (I know, I know ... debatable, so save your flame) ... and, I'm hoping the GS1000's will open up the dynamic side of my listening a bit ..._

 

I'm going actually for the RS1+Stat rig, having heard the GS-1000 it actually reminds me too much of the stats (to me it has the same pro's and con's).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks I did read that and he was pretty convincing. And I have read some opinion that supported it on these pages. Mostly I was wondering if anyone who had experience with both disagreed and felt the 404 was worth it, maybe because of better build, better asthetics, better fit, better whatever.

 Glad your enjoying your stax stuff. Much as I enjoy the 34 electret set and the "baby stax" portable, I look forward to the new equipment._

 

The SR-404 only has a better cable. Offcourse, here in head-fi land where people go and recable headphone's all the time, it seemed for me the smart choice to do it the first time right.

 Cheers,

 Victor


----------



## billyearle

AudioCats;5356295 said:
			
		

> I guess playing in free air for extented period is ok for some phones such as the SR-Lambda, as long as the drivers are dampened by the material in the ear cup. But for free vibrating drivers such as the ones in the ESP950, that might cause one of the drivers to sound differently over time.
> 
> I warm up my 0mega2MK1s and amp every day for a couple of hours or more in open air. Anyone think I'm asking for trouble?


----------



## fishpatrol

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Use the headband, and use the large-sized tips. They won't go into the ear canals but rest outside the ear canals. Then, bend the headband so that it exerts the minimum amount of clamping pressure to stay in place.

 There may be some slight degradation in sound quality, so you'll have to mess around with pad size, positioning, and clamping force.

 I never really got used to it TBH. The fit still bothers me to this day. But, you can make it if not comfortable, then at least bearable. I have more of a problem wearing universal-fit IEMs._

 

Thanks catscratch and webbie. The day I received the Baby Stax, I swapped the tips out with spare Sony tips similar to those seen in the Mod thread. I don't notice a difference in sound, though I think the seal is the same. The tips slip inside the rod of the earphone instead of outside like the proper Stax tips. If no one else has tried, I'll probably order a set of Etymotic tips, hoping for a good seal but a bit more distance between earphone and ear: the earphone rests against my earlobe on the right side, causing pain after about an hour of listening. Boo. I can always try strapping my ears back. They'll catch the drift in time.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fishpatrol* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The day I received the Baby Stax, I swapped the tips out with spare Sony tips similar to those seen in the Mod thread. I don't notice a difference in sound, though I think the seal is the same. The tips slip inside the rod of the earphone instead of outside like the proper Stax tips. If no one else has tried, I'll probably order a set of Etymotic tips, hoping for a good seal but a bit more distance between earphone and ear: the earphone rests against my earlobe on the right side, causing pain after about an hour of listening. Boo. I can always try strapping my ears back. They'll catch the drift in time._

 

It never occured to me to investigate the earbuds for the possibility of substituting and I may give it a try. I bought mine used and they came with the large tips installed. I had one afternoon of discomfort before I realized that by turning the tips I got a better fit, better sound balance and comfort. The only reason I'd be interested in other tips at this point is if they gave better isolation. They dont give great sound in a noisy environment, nothing like the exquisite sound they give in a quiet one. Keep us posted on your experiments.


----------



## krmathis

dickbianchi. As said above the difference between the SR-303 and the SR-404 are the cable. Ok, some color differences but that don't count. The SR-404 have the wide format cable, like the SR-007 and 4070. While the SR-303 have the narrower cable.

 I have not performed any serious comparison between them, but from the little time I spent the SR-404 felt a little clearer (midrange and top end). Very subtle differences though.
 So I say either one will keep you well pleased.


----------



## cetoole

Had a Lambda Pro and SRM-1/mk2 show up last week, and have been listening to them a good amount since. I have come to the conclusion that I much prefer the Koss ESP/950. Fortunately I have an adapter cable so I spent part of Saturday night and much of Sunday listening to the Koss out of the Stax amp. Boy, life sure is good.


----------



## vvanrij

So the Koss out of the Stax amp is in your opinion the best combi?


----------



## s1rrah

Is it safe to leave the Stax amp (SRM 323ii) on 24/7?

 Should it be powered down regularly like you would do a tube amp?

 I ask cause I've had mine running for nearly 24 hours straight at the longest ... and generally, especially on weekends ... I'd rather just leave it on as it seems to take a pretty good while to warm up.

 ??


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cetoole* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Had a Lambda Pro and SRM-1/mk2 show up last week, and have been listening to them a good amount since. I have come to the conclusion that I much prefer the Koss ESP/950. Fortunately I have an adapter cable so I spent part of Saturday night and much of Sunday listening to the Koss out of the Stax amp. Boy, life sure is good._

 

I agree with you, I much prefer Koss to my Sigma (they have Lambda Drivers) and that out of the stock Koss energizer.

 It is a mystery to me why a readily available phone in the US at such an attractive price is not popular.

 I may add that I prefer it over my O2+SRM-717.

 What is a an adapter cable and how can I get one to listen to my Koss through the 717 and the SRD7 pro ?


----------



## vvanrij

you mean , you prefer the total stock Koss + energizer over a O2+717??


----------



## cetoole

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Koss out of the Stax amp is in your opinion the best combi?_

 

Probably, its a bit darker and a bit smoother than the stock amp. Honestly, I dont feel that the stock E/90 amp mucks up the sound nearly as much as some people here, as the ESP/950 out of the E/90 still beats anything else I have by a large margin. IMO.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with you, I much prefer Koss to my Sigma (they have Lambda Drivers) and that out of the stock Koss energizer.

 It is a mystery to me why a readily available phone in the US at such an attractive price is not popular.

 I may add that I prefer it over my O2+SRM-717.

 What is a an adapter cable and how can I get one to listen to my Koss through the 717 and the SRD7 pro ?_

 

Yeah, I dont know why the ESP/950 rig isnt more popular. Heck, it can be had new any day of the week for less than many popular dynamic headphones, and comes with a usable amplifier, so you are able to spread out your spending like the dynamic folks do. 

 I have never lived with an O2, and really dont see that happening. Just too expensive for me. Never been impressed by it at meets, but I hear that is par for the course, and meets are crappy places to listen at anyways.

 The adapter is basically the last 5" of a Koss extension cord cut off and terminated with a Stax 5 pin plug, so you can use the Koss with any pro bias Stax amplifier. The Koss bias is only 20v higher than Stax Pro, which is only about a 3% difference, so works just fine. I hear it sounds better using a 620v bias though. I will eventually be recabling the ESP/950 with a Stax cable, as it is lower capacitance and not so horribly short. Plus there is no source for Koss plugs for DIY 'stat amps, so best to stick with the Stax standard.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you mean , you prefer the total stock Koss + energizer over a O2+717??_

 

Yes this is what my preference is.

 It is documented here:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/h.../index150.html

 I have not tried orthos yet until I do I can be perfectly happy with may MarkL moded Denon D2000 and the Koss Esp-950.

 When a set like Denon is sold in a supermarket next to
 the dairy products section and Koss is so readily available and inexpensive, people may think it is not really esoteric.

 cetool I will contact you for help with orthos. thanks for your response.

 As for the source my professional post mastering system is also used to measure jitter on all the "esoteric" sources used in headfi and is also used to produce almost half the commercial CD's.

 Music is very enjoyable through Koss and Denon regardless of genre, source (Lynx2, Linn Sondek Lp12, Sony DAP), bit rate and volume level.

 You may see the related info on my "Amon Zeus" posts in the Full Size Headphone section a couple of months ago.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes this is what my preference is.

 It is documented here:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/h.../index150.html

 I have not tried orthos yet until I do I can be perfectly happy with may MarkL moded Denon D2000 and the Koss Esp-950.

 When a set like Denon is sold in a supermarket next to
 the dairy products section and Koss is so readily available and inexpensive, people may think it is not really esoteric.

 cetool I will contact you for help with orthos. thanks for your response.

 As for the source my professional post mastering system is also used to measure jitter on all the "esoteric" sources used in headfi and is also used to produce almost half the commercial CD's.

 Music is very enjoyable through Koss and Denon regardless of genre, source (Lynx2, Linn Sondek Lp12, Sony DAP), bit rate and volume level.

 You may see the related info on my "Amon Zeus" posts in the Full Size Headphone section a couple of months ago._

 

For many people, all they need is a modded D2000 (wood cups and cable) and a Koss ESP950 and the search for great sound could be over (well, or a normal bias SR-Lambda and Alessandro MS-1 for those on a tight budget).

 Some of us are looking for that last 10% on a journey that never ends, even when we are happy with the stuff we already have. Spritzer needs only one SR-007 Mk1 and a Blue Hawaii and nothing else, so his journey ended long ago...


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For many people, all they need is a modded D2000 (wood cups and cable) and a Koss ESP950 and the search for great sound could be over (well, or a normal bias SR-Lambda and Alessandro MS-1 for those on a tight budget).

 Some of us are looking for that last 10% on a journey that never ends, even when we are happy with the stuff we already have. Spritzer needs only one SR-007 Mk1 and a Blue Hawaii and nothing else, so his journey ended long ago..._

 


 My Journey has not ended yet
 I have not explored orthos yet

 As "cosmos" continues to expand my journey may never end.

 I received a message that four girls will be delivering my Jade soon

 here they are

YouTube - Bond - Quixote/ Duel

 can you tell me which one is your Jade?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Journey has not ended yet
 I have not explored orthos yet

 As "cosmos" continues to expand my journey may never end.

 I received a message that four girls will be delivering my Jade soon

 here they are

YouTube - Bond - Quixote/ Duel

 can you tell me which one is your Jade?_

 

The one with the lightning bolts cut out in the sides of her costume. If she's already taken, the celloist...


----------



## powertoold

My journey will end once I find an O2 Mk1 in better condition


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The one with the lightning bolts cut out in the sides of her costume. If she's already taken, the celloist..._

 

The Brunette?
 And I thought you are a purist.

 Unfortunately they are all taken.

 You got to find them when they are still young like my son's French teacher. 
 She invented this method of teaching to draw his attention. 

YouTube - Alizee - J'en Ai Marre (Live, Sexy & with subtitles)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My journey will end once I find an O2 Mk1 in better condition 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I already offered you a nice O2 Mk2 for your crappy Mk1. Just to help you out of your misery we could ship tomorrow...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Brunette?
 And I thought you are a purist.

 Unfortunately they are all taken.

 You got to find them when they are still young
 like my son's French teacher. 
 She invented this method of teaching to deaw his
 attention. 

YouTube - Alizee - J'en Ai Marre (Live, Sexy & with subtitles)_

 

Wow, you nailed your son's french teacher? Impressive. To stay on topic, I must ask if she liked your Stax.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already offered you a nice O2 Mk2 for your crappy Mk1. Just to help you out of your misery we could ship tomorrow..._

 

It's definitely not crappy. It's just I feel like the O2Mk1 is the perfect headphone, and I am going to keep it for a long time, so I'm being very picky about its condition. I'm sure I don't need to go into any detail about the sound, as spritzer is right again.

 And I don't think it's dark at all.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, you nailed your son's french teacher? Impressive. To stay on topic, I must ask if she liked your Stax._

 

It was my son who showed her the Stax and the Denon
 and she is still trying to decide although she told him it
 may be the Stax.

 I think we must now pass the "baton" to the blondes and continiue with our voyage 

YouTube - Kate Ryan - Voyage Voyage


 before imitbiker comes in and says

 come on guys lets get back to our regular program.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It was my son who showed her the Stax and the Denon
 and she is still trying to decide although she told him it
 may be the Stax.

 I think we must now pass the "baton" to the blondes and continiue with our voyage 

YouTube - Kate Ryan - Voyage Voyage


 before imitbiker comes in and says

 come on guys lets get back to our regular program._

 

And, to the Brunettes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfSYe...e=channel_page

 powertoold, seriously, when you do decide to sell the Mk1 let me know...


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_.......I received a message that four girls will be delivering my Jade soon

 here they are

YouTube - Bond - Quixote/ Duel

 ..._

 

I'd better go upstairs and wake them up then. They had a very tireing night


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd better go upstairs and wake them up then. *They had a very tireing night*



_

 

*Indeed !* (as Duggeh would probably say)

 Their premier at Albert Hall ended with Duel. Their sweat was dripping down their pants and their voices trebling from exuberance.


----------



## vvanrij

Nasty old perverts


----------



## mark_h

I [size=large]♥[/size] my Stax


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer needs only one SR-007 Mk1 and a Blue Hawaii and nothing else, so his journey ended long ago..._

 

I do also need to have an SR-Omega here but that's it. The future is with better amps as the headphones are far more advanced.


----------



## Oublie

One worry i would have is I'll get to the point where I'm ready to either build or buy a blue hawaii only to find out that the parts are completely unobtainable. I wonder what will come out in the future that will top the BH or from stax. Are there other amps already out there that cost a kidney and a lung to buy which are better? I'm surprised there isn't more diy coming out of japan.


----------



## Sherwood

I'm unaware of anything better, but there are things which are more expensive.


----------



## spritzer

We have replacement parts for most of the OOP stuff so that's not a problem. 

 Most of the Japanese amps I know of are either small jobs with AT7's and AX7's or something with larger tubes but filled with capacitors.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One worry i would have is I'll get to the point where I'm ready to either build or buy a blue hawaii only to find out that the parts are completely unobtainable. I wonder what will come out in the future that will top the BH or from stax. Are there other amps already out there that cost a kidney and a lung to buy which are better? I'm surprised there isn't more diy coming out of japan._

 

They are still being built, the parts are out there somewhere?


----------



## Oublie

So theres no real new development in electrostats now thats a shame. At least it means less swapping to find the perfect setup. One could always argue that you can't improve perfection. Caps + amp = bad bar psu of course.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So theres no real new development in electrostats now thats a shame._

 

I have to say, I do not agree with you here. The BHSE hasn't even been officially released yet, and the HeAudio Jades are brand new this year. I'm not sure what sort of development you're looking for, but two statement products in a year isn't bad.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So theres no real new development in electrostats now thats a shame. At least it means less swapping to find the perfect setup. One could always argue that you can't improve perfection. Caps + amp = bad bar psu of course._

 

There is a lot of work going on with amps but it's behind the scenes. The economic crash has also put on hold some really grand plans but they might resurface ones things get settled.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have to say, I do not agree with you here. The BHSE hasn't even been officially released yet, and the HeAudio Jades are brand new this year. I'm not sure what sort of development you're looking for, but two statement products in a year isn't bad._

 

Woo Audio also has plans to introduce a new stat amp, but I understand that those plans were put on hold as a result of being too busy--which is a refreshing piece of news given the current financial mess.


----------



## Sherwood

As does RSA, and as far as I know Ray is on-track. 

 Whether the RSA and Woo amps will truly break new ground remains to be see.


----------



## vvanrij

Well my problem of the extreme inbalance on my SR-404 still persists so I will be sending them back tommorow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





!!


----------



## Oublie

I wasn't being all doom and gloom guys and although i was aware of the Ray Samuels project and Jade the others were news to me thanks for the info. It just seems as if the pinacle in amps was reached by Kevin Gilmore. Based on all test comparisons and reviews i've read many others come close and theres a german made amp which claims to be better. Its quite comforting to know that the ultimate can never be attained we can't be too happy you know. Maybe when I do get my hand on a set of omega's i won't like them in the same way you hear and see so may good things about a movie that is supposed to be fantastic then its all a bit of a let down.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a lot of work going on with amps but it's behind the scenes. The economic crash has also put on hold some really grand plans but they might resurface ones things get settled._

 

I just hope i wasn't mistaken in thinking i'd seen a post from Dr. Gilmore about updating the current-domain solid state amp design for currently obtainable parts. 

 And i hope that, when that comes to pass, someone manufactures a run of boards for DIYers.


----------



## kg21

Maybe in the future there will be some advancement for mid-fi stax too, hopefully more people start buying stax to make it financially possible(kind of wierd posting this in the "high-end" section). I just bought a SR-404 and my budget for an amp is 500-800ish, the only options are from stax both old and new. Though there are some good choices, I wish there was more selection like dynamics, the Blue Hawaii/KGSS and Woo audio GES are way out of my price range even if they would be worth the cost. I need the "gilmore lite" equivalent to the KGSS "GS-1"


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nasty old perverts_

 

I am sorry for the last video (almost soft core),

 but I had to come up fast with a blond woman and a reference to the main point the endless journey. 

 As a pilot, listening to "Bon Voyage" good buys all the time you may forgive my "Katie" post.


----------



## cosmopragma

For those that are looking for a Stax SRD 7Mk2
 It's not mine and I'm not affiliated but the feedback looks good, the price is relatively reasonable (< $280 buy-it-now +shipping costs) and the seller is willing to ship worldwide.
 Seller describes it as technically and cosmetically "like new".


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just hope i wasn't mistaken in thinking i'd seen a post from Dr. Gilmore about updating the current-domain solid state amp design for currently obtainable parts. 

 And i hope that, when that comes to pass, someone manufactures a run of boards for DIYers._

 

I haven't seen that but swap out the SK389 for a MAT02 and you are half way there. 

 We do need a better access to PCB's...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kg21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe in the future there will be some advancement for mid-fi stax too, hopefully more people start buying stax to make it financially possible(kind of wierd posting this in the "high-end" section). I just bought a SR-404 and my budget for an amp is 500-800ish, the only options are from stax both old and new. Though there are some good choices, I wish there was more selection like dynamics, the Blue Hawaii/KGSS and Woo audio GES are way out of my price range even if they would be worth the cost. I need the "gilmore lite" equivalent to the KGSS "GS-1"_

 

A sub 1k$ amp isn't really feasible for the small scale manufactures we have here. Something like the Egmont could be sold for less then 1k$ though if a few were built at a time.


----------



## vvanrij

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sorry for the last video (almost soft core),

 but I had to come up fast with a blond woman and a reference to the main point the endless journey. 

 As a pilot, listening to "Bon Voyage" good buys all the time you may forgive my "Katie" post._

 


 Haha, I was more referring to the:

 'Wow, you nailed your son's french teacher?'


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A sub 1k$ amp isn't really feasible for the small scale manufactures we have here. Something like the Egmont could be sold for less then 1k$ though if a few were built at a time._

 

The problem, even with DIY, is that the objective seems to be to go all-out for ultimate quality. The logic, I suppose, is that if you were willing to compromise, you'd just get an off-the-shelf SRM unit. 

 I recall a conversation i had with another head-fier about low-budget DIY stax amps. Specifically, we were looking at that german design. I don't recall the url or the name. 

 Basically, what it came down to was, yeah, he offers the board artwork for free, and there's only $14 worth of components on each board, but the power supply iron alone in his design adds up to $200 or so. 

 Adapting the KGSS power supply design didn't look feasable - it was designed to have dual supplies, not a split supply. 

 On the other hand, there's designs like the National Semiconditor app note - which looks very cheap to build but again there's the power supply to worry about, and I don't feel qualified to design the power supply. Also, one person on headwize who built this design said that it clips at 400vpp, even after increasing the power supply voltage, and this doesn't seem right at all. 

 we can all just sit down with some perfboard and make KGSS amps on our own - but we'd rather not, and we can't obtain all the parts anyway these days. Not easily anyhow. 

 I think that the electrostatic headphone community has grown enough over the last few years that a DIY project with printed boards for a sub-$300 (parts, not including enclosure) electrostatic amp would be very well received. 

 But most of our active amp designers are strictly dynamic guys.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those that are looking for a Stax SRD 7Mk2
 It's not mine and I'm not affiliated but the feedback looks good, the price is relatively reasonable (< $280 buy-it-now +shipping costs) and the seller is willing to ship worldwide.
 Seller describes it as technically and cosmetically "like new"._

 

Quite nice deal! ..no wonder its gone already...


----------



## spritzer

Al has been getting quotes for Blue Hawaii iron and most have been in under 100$ and some special R-core job at under 150$. 

 The Blue Hawaii PSU is quite cheap to build (I've built enough of them) and that's just two supplied, glued together at the output. It works well on what ever I've tried it with and gave the Egmont a good kick in the back. 

 I've never paid too much attention to the National amp but KG says it is a horrible design so I'll take his word for it. 

 I do agree that a cheap amp would be a good thing and they are easy enough make from an existing design. Does anybody know how to make good PCB's...?


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SNIP

 I think that the electrostatic headphone community has grown enough over the last few years that a DIY project with printed boards for a sub-$300 (parts, not including enclosure) electrostatic amp would be very well received. 

 But most of our active amp designers are strictly dynamic guys._

 

There's lot of talent here, and that's an excellent price point. I am looking at getting into some Stax, and my experiences so far have been listening to others dedicated amps. 

 A good design in that price range would probably drive 'static headphone purchases. Perhaps some designers could be converted...


----------



## indydieselnut

Hey all! 

 I bought the Lambda Nova Signature (pro bias) Stax headphones with the SRM-T1W tube driver amp about 12 years ago. What is the current comparable product from Stax? The 404 headphones look very similar - do they make a driver similar to the SRM-T1W? 

 Thanks for all your help! I'm getting them fired back up after many years of being dormant. 

 Thanks!
 John


----------



## Sherwood

Man, you'd need to spend upwards of $1500 to get a better setup than what you already have, IMO.

 Both of those pieces are really excellent, with the LNS representing arguably the best Lambda design ever made.

 I suppose the modern equivalent would be the SR-404 and the SR-006t2, but I'd take your setup over that in a pinch.


----------



## vvanrij

Haha, your signature-quote sherwood


----------



## indydieselnut

Thanks Sherwood! I just picked up a DacMagic today to put behind my Audio Alchemy DDS-Pro transport. That's also an antique!! I've been out of hi-fi for about ten years (got married, had a kid...you know the story) but am excited about getting some good sound back in my ears! 

 Good to know I'm off to a good start!


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey all! 

 I bought the Lambda Nova Signature (pro bias) Stax headphones with the SRM-T1W tube driver amp about 12 years ago. What is the current comparable product from Stax? The 404 headphones look very similar - do they make a driver similar to the SRM-T1W? 

 Thanks for all your help! I'm getting them fired back up after many years of being dormant. 

 Thanks!
 John_

 

And also I would like to add that the T1W is regarded as one of the best tube amplifier from Stax ever made, it should be better than the 006tii, maybe even better than the 007tii and it is relatively rare. So there is no need to update, maybe rolling some new tubes and rebiasing the amp


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's lot of talent here, and that's an excellent price point. I am looking at getting into some Stax, and my experiences so far have been listening to others dedicated amps. 

 A good design in that price range would probably drive 'static headphone purchases. Perhaps some designers could be converted..._

 

Well, lets be honest here. This would be an advanced DIY build. And after labor and case work, you'd easily be looking at $1k if you paid someone else to build it. 

 I don't think we need a new design. There are plenty of designs out there available for free - we just need to pick one that can be built with parts readily available. 

 Not that i would be opposed to a new design - especially if that would mean adjusting an existing tubed design to use some of the vastly underrated russian and current-production eastern european tubes rather than the old standards that are getting so hard to acquire at decent prices. 

 Having picked a design, we need someone who can do board layout and submit it to be professionally printed and drilled. 

 And that's where it gets expensive. We're probably looking at $30-$50 per amp in boards, and someone has to place that order and be willing to accept money and distribute boards to buyers. 

 Basically, someone needs to be In Charge of the project.


----------



## indydieselnut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And also I would like to add that the T1W is regarded as one of the best tube amplifier from Stax ever made, it should be better than the 006tii, maybe even better than the 007tii and it is relatively rare. So there is no need to update, maybe rolling some new tubes and rebiasing the amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

padam - thanks for the info! Again, noob question: what tubes are recommended and how to I rebias them? I was told by Stax that Accutech out on the west coast is the authorized service center for Stax gear in the US. Do I need to send it to them for this work? I'm a cellist and music lover...not so much with the audio gear knowledge! Thanks!


----------



## ericj

Specifically, I think it would be Really Keen to have a DIY 'stat amp that accepts 6N6P/6N6P-I/ECC99/6H30-PI as the output stage. These are all good tubes, all versions of the same thing, and ranging in price from $4/ea to $40/ea. 

 OTOH with a nod to Spritzer's preference, I'd have no major objection to a loctal design. 

 I'm just unlikely to get as excited about a design that uses tubes that, while trustworthy and no worse than the above, are only available as vintage parts, and so popular that all the good ones are outrageously priced.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And also I would like to add that the *T1W* is regarded as one of the best tube amplifier from Stax ever made, it should be better than the 006tii, maybe even better than the 007tii and it is relatively rare. So there is no need to update, maybe rolling some new tubes and rebiasing the amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

And should you ever wish to sell it...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, lets be honest here. This would be an advanced DIY build. And after labor and case work, you'd easily be looking at $1k if you paid someone else to build it. 

 I don't think we need a new design. There are plenty of designs out there available for free - we just need to pick one that can be built with parts readily available. 

 Not that i would be opposed to a new design - especially if that would mean adjusting an existing tubed design to use some of the vastly underrated russian and current-production eastern european tubes rather than the old standards that are getting so hard to acquire at decent prices. 

 Having picked a design, we need someone who can do board layout and submit it to be professionally printed and drilled. 

 And that's where it gets expensive. We're probably looking at $30-$50 per amp in boards, and someone has to place that order and be willing to accept money and distribute boards to buyers. 

 Basically, someone needs to be In Charge of the project._

 

A tube amp would be a the best choice IMO with some new production tubes or some cheap oldies. The Egmont I've built uses two ECC99's for drivers with a quad of 6S4A's as output tubes all run off a single +/-350v PSU. Both are phenomenal tubes for the job. It does need two filament windings and some extra current but that's a small increase in the over all cost. 

 Still something like this isn't a beginners project and high voltages bring up a whole new playing field.


----------



## indydieselnut

mark_h - it's funny that you mention selling it...that's what brought me to this site in the first place! I was going to sell my Stax setup and go the dynamic route. First - I haven't been on here long enough to list it in the "for sale" forum and second - it seems I have a pretty good setup that I might actually want to keep and enjoy! 

 I'll keep you in mind if I ever post enough to gain acccess to the "for sale" forum!


----------



## Sherwood

If you sell him the amp, I've got dibs on the Lambda Nova Signatures.

 Just sayin'.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_mark_h - it's funny that you mention selling it...that's what brought me to this site in the first place! I was going to sell my Stax setup and go the dynamic route. First - I haven't been on here long enough to list it in the "for sale" forum and second - it seems I have a pretty good setup that I might actually want to keep and enjoy! 

 I'll keep you in mind if I ever post enough to gain acccess to the "for sale" forum!_

 

Enjoy it then sell it when the bug hits!


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And should you ever wish to sell it...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Actually, selling my T1S and LNS could be on the horizon, because I can't afford to have both electrostatic and dynamic rig at the same time, they are really great, but I made my sights on a pretty low-priced and almost unused K1000 locally so things could change...
 Hopefully, this weekend I will be able to do a shootout between all my headphones from my friend's proper source to see which one suits me best(hopefully with the K1000 as well, driven from his Jadis speaker-amp).


----------



## Victor Chew

It is sad to have to sell the LNS and the TIs as this combination, to me, not only sounds very good but highly collectable as well. It took me more than 9 months to track down and purchase a good condition set. If you can afford to, you ought to keep it!


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is sad to have to sell the LNS and the TIs as this combination, to me, not only sounds very good but highly collectable as well. It took me more than 9 months to track down and purchase a good condition set. If you can afford to, you ought to keep it!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yep I know(maybe the seller didn't?), and to make it harder, an SR-X MKIII in excellent condition is on the way to work with the T1S but I have really nothing left at all and will have to pay for the DAC as well when it's ready 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hope the SR-X arrives before visiting my friend.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you sell him the amp, I've got dibs on the Lambda Nova Signatures.

 Just sayin'._

 

Dibs on your Lambdas if that happens


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dibs on your Lambdas if that happens 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I know of someone in Ireland who might sell you Lambdas for $300 + shipping.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I might just be crazy, but I just had to have the 404, if I had the 303 I would be like, hmm, I wonder how that 404 would sound._

 

Obviously, you've been at this longer than me. You were right. For almost the identical reason you suggested, I decided on the 404s. I did, however, find a place in the UK, that had a great price, once the vat was deducted.


----------



## The Monkey

I think you'll be happy with the 404.


----------



## mark_h

I am pretty blissed out with my T1 at the moment but I am looking to go balanced in the near future as I have just landed an Ikemi and they are, apparently, spectacular from the balanced outputs. So the T1s or W would be perfect for me, not being able to afford the KGBH. Maybe the 6t or 7t? But I really do like the T1 sound? Or should I be looking elsewhere?


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am pretty blissed out with my T1 at the moment but I am looking to go balanced in the near future as I have just landed an Ikemi and they are, apparently, spectacular from the balanced outputs. So the T1s or W would be perfect for me, not being able to afford the KGBH. Maybe the 6t or 7t? But I really do like the T1 sound? Or should I be looking elsewhere?_

 

The sound quality difference between the T1S and the T1W is down to the different tubes as far as I know, and the newer Stax tube amps are said to be inferior to them. For Omega II, the SRM-717 could be your best 'value' choice (and it is said to be much better than its so-called successors).


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sound quality difference between the T1S and the T1W is down to the different tubes as far as I know, and the newer Stax tube amps are said to be inferior to them. For Omega II, the SRM-717 could be your best 'value' choice (and it is said to be much better than its so-called successors)._

 

I have a T1W, 007t and a 717. The 717 is the best available Stax amp for the O2. But the 007t is fantastic on the Lambda series, SR-X, SR-3/5 and Koss ESP-950. The T1 series is definitely better than the 006t. The 717 (not the 727II) and 007t are very similar and are sonically the top available Stax amps IMO. I also like the fact that the 007t has both high and low bias outputs, the 007tII does not.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a T1W, 007t and a 717. The 717 is the best available Stax amp for the O2. But the 007t is fantastic on the Lambda series, SR-X, SR-3/5 and Koss ESP-950. The T1 series is definitely better than the 006t. The 717 (not the 727II) and 007t are very similar and are sonically the top available Stax amps IMO. I also like the fact that the 007t has both high and low bias outputs, the 007tII does not._

 

The guy who sold me the T1S and the LNS had bought a 4040II, maybe that was actually a downgrade? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyway, can't wait to hear the SR-X, it has arrived at home so it will appear on the mini-meet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just wanted to add, you have a very nice electrostatic collection


----------



## krmathis

You have probably noticed that I have been scaling down my Stax collection lately.
 From 8 headphones, 3 energizers and 2 transformers this summer, down to 2 headphones and 1 transformer as of now. Like others I have found out that the SR-007(BL) is the clear leader of the pack, and its the only Stax'en I really need.

 Its been a really nice ride though, and I would not have been without it.
 Thanks!


----------



## SoliloCey

I have purchased some SR-303s


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have probably noticed that I have been scaling down my Stax collection lately.
 From 8 headphones, 3 energizers and 2 transformers this summer, down to 2 headphones and 1 transformer as of now. Like others I have found out that the SR-007(BL) is the clear leader of the pack, and its the only Stax'en I really need.

 Its been a really nice ride though, and I would not have been without it.
 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

and what about the AKG-K1000? 
 are you neglecting your seconfd wife?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and what about the AKG-K1000? 
 are you neglecting your seconfd wife?_

 

I left the AKG (K1000) outside, since this is the Stax thread.
 But I am certainly not neglecting the K1000. Its actually the 'phone I usually pick for listening sessions.

 That may change when I find or build a higher quality transformer for the Stax'en.


----------



## kg21

sr-007t amp on the way to pair with my sr-404 signatures, once they arrive I will officially be a part of the STAX crew. 

 Question for those who owned the 007t do you have to bias the tubes every single time you change the tubes? Looks pretty hard.


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am certainly not neglecting the K1000. Its actually the 'phone I usually pick for listening sessions._

 

whitch amp do you prefer with the k1000: the b22 or rwa.30,2?


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kg21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sr-007t amp on the way to pair with my sr-404 signatures, once they arrive I will officially be a part of the STAX crew. 

 Question for those who owned the 007t do you have to bias the tubes every single time you change the tubes? Looks pretty hard._

 

Interesting; same combo on way to me. Anticipation.


----------



## ericj

So which one of you guys paid $122 for an SR-3?


----------



## kg21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting; same combo on way to me. Anticipation._

 

yeah the wait is killing me too. Congrats on the purchase.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Did I mention I bought subtle's O2 Mk1, and I also have an SRD-7 Mk2 SB on the way as well?

 So, I'll finally get to compare the Mk1 to my Mk2, and see if I should sell one or vacillate about it like Elephas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next up will either be a nice tube speaker amp for the SRD-7 Mk2 SB or build a blue hawaii...


----------



## The Monkey

As between the mk1 and the mk2, I have pretty much settled on the former.


----------



## Oublie

Hi guys,

 Has anyone got any stax plugs & sockets they are willing to part with (for money obviously). I need 4 plugs and 4 sockets although i'll settle for any amount greater or smaller. I'm in Northern Ireland and the only place i see them is allied in the states. Germania was telling me that you can only order in large quantities and none of my local suppliers stock them any more.

 thanks.


----------



## spritzer

I'm not sure how many sockets I've got but I do have a lot of plugs that I can send your way. Just drop me a PM if you'd like them.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did I mention I bought subtle's O2 Mk1, and I also have an SRD-7 Mk2 SB on the way as well?

 So, I'll finally get to compare the Mk1 to my Mk2, and see if I should sell one or vacillate about it like Elephas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next up will either be a nice tube speaker amp for the SRD-7 Mk2 SB or build a blue hawaii..._

 


 Can you explain (in general and not in the context of your post) the meaning of the tongue smile to me.

 Also what is the single word defining a woman with a a specific hair color?

 Blond = Blonde, Red =Redhead,
 Brown = ?, Black = ?

 I have a feeling that I mistakenly call Brown colored hair women Brunettes.

 Black
YouTube - Alessia Mancini - Io che non vivo (Non Ã¨ la Rai)

 the one you cannot get over with
YouTube - Alizee - La Isla Bonita

 perfectly justified, it will not take one of your super duper amps to hear the huge voice of this tiny girl.
 She blows Madonna out of the water.

 a couple of trios

YouTube - Princess -- Princesses Of The Violin


YouTube - Kell, hogy vÃ¡rj - Mona Lisa

 and IVANA the redhead I promised you on a beautiful Bulgarian rendition of an Arabic well known tune

YouTube - Ivana - Skitam se (Tamally Maak)


----------



## indydieselnut

Well, I got everything hooked back up last night and really enjoyed getting to know the sound of this system again (with the DacMagic being the new variable). It definitely needs some time to warm back up but the immediacy of presentation with well-recorded strings was amazing. 

 I know this is the Stax thread and I'm honestly not trying to hijack (especially since I'm new here), but can anyone give me an idea of what some of the differences would be between my system and a properly setup GS1000-based system? I admit to being intrigued by that 'phone and what's said about it around here. 

 If I get it to work, here are some pics. Notice the missing RCA sleeve on one channel on the back of the T1W - if I sell the amp/phones this is the only thing that needs disclosing. The rest is well, pretty much perfect.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this is the Stax thread and I'm honestly not trying to hijack (especially since I'm new here), but can anyone give me an idea of what some of the differences would be between my system and a properly setup GS1000-based system? I admit to being intrigued by that 'phone and what's said about it around here._

 

Give me a week and I can let you know ...







 I'm going to be doing a Stax / GS1000 / RS1 mini-review in a couple weeks as I'm getting a set of GS1000's this next friday.

 When I bought the Stax system (in sig), it was either that or a set of GS1000's and since I was already very well acquainted (and fond of) my RS1's, I decided to go with the Stax option as it was the most unfamiliar territory for me.

 Suffice it to say, I've been very pleased with the Stax performance level, especially considering the price point but I've some minor quibbles which are beginning to become more clear after a couple weeks listening.

 In the end (a month or two from now) ... I'm likely going to either keep my dynamic (grado based) system or the Stax system as they are all close enough in performance that not liquidating some of them wouldn't be financially prudent for my income level ...

 Suffice it to say, I'm looking forward to the comparison as the Stax has really made a decent impression on me in regards to sound stage and detail and I'm very curious (like yourself) how the GS1000's will compare.

 All of my listening is done via a Havana tube DAC ... I run to my Stello HP100 headamp and from the Stello's preamp out to the Stax ... both the Stax and my Grados sound *very* spot on with the Havana DAC (NOS R2R design) ...

 More later and after I let the GS1000's burn in for a couple hundred hours ... I'll be posting a separate thread.

 Have fun ...


----------



## indydieselnut

I'll look forward to hearing the results!!


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kg21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for those who owned the 007t do you have to bias the tubes every single time you change the tubes? Looks pretty hard._

 

Yes you should. Instructions are in this thread. Although the thread is about the SRM-T1, some of the instructions Elephas lists there are for the 007t. I believe the bottom ones of his post are. Good luck.

 A picture of the output of a Stax amp is here by the way.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you explain (in general and not in the context of your post) the meaning of the tongue smile to me.

 Also what is the single word defining a woman with a a specific hair color?

 Blond = Blonde, Red =Redhead,
 Brown = ?, Black = ?

 I have a feeling that I mistakenly call Brown colored hair women Brunettes.

 Black
YouTube - Alessia Mancini - Io che non vivo (Non Ã¨ la Rai)

 the one you cannot get over with
YouTube - Alizee - La Isla Bonita

 perfectly justified, it will not take one of your super duper amps to hear the huge voice of this tiny girl.
 She blows Madonna out of the water.

 a couple of trios

YouTube - Princess -- Princesses Of The Violin


YouTube - Kell, hogy vÃ¡rj - Mona Lisa

 and IVANA the redhead I promised you on a beautiful Bulgarian rendition of an Arabic well known tune

YouTube - Ivana - Skitam se (Tamally Maak)_

 

Brown is brunette.

 The tongue smiley is that Elephas likes the O2 Mk1 and Mk2 and if I have to explain it all then you TOTALLY TAKE ALL THE FUN OUT OF IT. he'll get it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kg21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
sr-007t amp on the way to pair with my sr-404 signatures, once they arrive I will officially be a part of the STAX crew.

 

Interesting; same combo on way to me. Anticipation._

 

Sweet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 SRM-007t and SR-404 makes a really nice combo imo.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whitch amp do you prefer with the k1000: the b22 or rwa.30,2?_

 

This may be like swearing in church, but I actually prefer the Signature 30.2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its warm and natural sound signature is a perfect match for the K1000 and my ears. The Isabellina and Signature 30.2 match-up is obvious too. The β22 sure is a stunning amplifier though, so a really close race.


----------



## kg21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sweet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 SRM-007t and SR-404 makes a really nice combo imo._

 

yeah haven't looked this forward to a Monday in a long long time. The sr-404 is in its box and it's lonely.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes you should. Instructions are in this thread. Although the thread is about the SRM-T1, some of the instructions Elephas lists there are for the 007t. I believe the bottom ones of his post are. Good luck.

 A picture of the output of a Stax amp is here by the way._

 

Thanks saw another thread about biasing and was not looking forward to it but looks like I don't have a choice.


----------



## edstrelow

I just picked up a PS power Noise Harvester and am very pleased with its usefulness in my Stax set-ups. For a start you can get one for for $70.00, so it's not a big gamble in the event you don't think it' s very good. I think tweaking is in general a high-end and especially electrostatic thing just because you need a set-up capable of high resolution before many tweaks are going to be noticeable. 

 The PSNH is small transformer sized box that is plugged into a wall socket to reduce, absorb, transformer electrical noise. It incorporates a blue led with which it supposedly transforms the noise into light, thereby eliminating it. Whatever. 

 I first plugged it into my office system, built around a Stax SRM3, Lambda Nova and Sigma pro. While the system was being warmed up,I didn' t notice much, but after a few minutes the Sigma Pro seemed to be sounding more rich than I had heard before. I switched over the the Nova because it, like all the Lambdas, can sound harsh due to the enhanced midrange. The sound was definitely easier on the ear, there was better ambience, bass was more full. What really convinced me was when I turned me head to hear an unusual sound while listening to a Paul Simon track which I thought was something in the room, and realized it was an instrumental track on the recording, that I had never noticed before. In other words ithe PSNH brought out details but in a very musical and pleasing way. 

 Stats often get rap for being detailed but harsh sounding. And this is partly true, they will pick up most everything in your recording chain, including the hash. But get rid of the hash and you end up with a very pure sound. 

 The effect has been just as good with everything else I have tried, the SRXIII, Sigma/404, and 007A. It is also good in my bedroom speaker system and makes the image on my Panasonic plasma tv, better, the colors are purer, blacks blacker.

 So far I have been carrying my sole PSNH from one system to another but I have some more on order. It is claimed that using multiple units around the house can give a cumulative benefit. Mostly I just want one unit near each system.

 I have not been too keen on electrical noise reduction devices in the past. I felt that some that I tried adversely affected either dynamics or frequency response. This unit does not seem to at all. Rather dynamics and frequency response are improved and the subtleties of the music really can be heard.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just picked up a PS power Noise Harvester and am very pleased with its usefulness in my Stax set-ups. For a start you can get one for for $70.00, so it's not a big gamble in the event you don't think it' s very good. I think tweaking is in general a high-end and especially electrostatic thing just because you need a set-up capable of high resolution before many tweaks are going to be noticeable. ._

 

Thanks. This is useful for me. I'd been interested in some not too expensive noise reduction gear but had no idea or how or if this kind of item (I've seen a similar item in a UK firm) would work.


----------



## Sherwood

The noise harvester is a very competent unit, and it's incredibly scalable since it doesn't require components to be plugged directly into it. 

 That said, I've never had one in my rig, so I'm glad to hear your results. I might just invest in one.


----------



## SoliloCey

I have picked up my Stax SRM1/mk2 today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 now Im trying to sit patiently and get some sleep for the SR-303s to come.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have picked up my Stax SRM1/mk2 today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The SRM-1/MK2 is a really nice amplifier. You're in for some enjoyable moments...


----------



## kg21

So the SRM-007t arrived a little while ago and I am now listening to the SR-404+srm-007t combo for the first time. I guess I shouldn't jump to conclusions but I already feel like I can understand why once you go stax you can't go back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. The speed, resolution, detail, and seperation are stunning. Definitely a lot more revealing than dynamics, one song had almost no bass then another had great impact/extension. Oh and pictures don't do the sr-007t justice it is HUGE.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have a question coming up here.

 The headband elastics on my O2 Mk2 are considerably stiffer than on my used Mk1 that just arrives. With the Mk2 I put them on by holding just the ear cups and spreading them apart while I hold the earpads and cables oriented properly, and the leather and elastic part stays centered and firm. 

 But, on the O2 Mk1 the leather part attached to the elastics flops around when I go to put them on unless I hold that part still and in the center by hand, and then the headphones sag slightly but it still keeps the metal band off the top of my head.

 So, is this normal for a Mk1 or do I need to buy a new leather headband with elastics? Or what is the most cost effective way to deal with it if the elastics are sagging as they get old?

 The earpads are all wrinkled but the foam still seems to hold the drivers off the ear so that they don't touch yet. The sound is simply great with the GES but I haven't had a chance to compare to the Mk2 or JADE or ESP950 etc...


----------



## catscratch

The elastics are stiffer on the Mk2 than on the Mk1. The Mk2's headband was so stiff that it would actually pull the headphones off their optimum position for me, and I always had to adjust them every 5 minutes to get a good fit. But if the Mk2 was right for you, then I can see how a Mk1 would be too loose (or your elastics are just worn as you say).

 I would suggest bending the headband to put more clamping force on the earpads. The headband is metal and you're not going to damage anything from manhandling it. Play around with fit and clamping force, since a single millimeter's difference in ear/driver distance can make a big difference in the sound. The Mk1 is insanely fit-dependent.

 I would also suggest replacing earpads ASAP, and stocking up on earpads while they're still available.


----------



## AudioCats

can anybody give a quick comparison between the Lambda-Pro and the 303? I might need one of them for a transportable build. I had lambda-pro's before, my main complains were their closed-in stage and etch, how do the 303's fare in these areas? 

 Also, from I remembered, the 303 has the same everything as the 404 except the cable, is this correct? Which means it will also have the same drivers as the 4070?


----------



## The Monkey

catscratch makes several good points, especially about the mk1 and fit. I find it to be more fit dependent than the mk2, and more difficult to get a good fit than with the mk2. Perhaps this has to do with the better (to me) pads and headband on the mk2.

 I also recommend new earpads. They make a big difference, and who knows how long they'll be around. However, they're annoyingly expensive.

 I recently received a new headband for the mk1, and while it is a bit more supportive, it is still not close to the mk1. Like catscratch said, bend those arcs, it makes a huge difference.

 Now I'm trying to find replacement arcs. Not easy. Especially when Yama's won't return my emails...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can anybody give a quick comparison between the Lambda-Pro and the 303? I might need one of them for a transportable build. I had lambda-pro's before, my main complains were their closed-in stage and etch, how do the 303's fare in these areas? _

 

To me, the 303 improved in both areas (etch and stage), but perhaps not surprisingly, the 303 does not have the same immediacy as the LP, but also less fatiguing than the LP. I also found the LP to be a bit more euphonic. To me these differences were small but noticeable.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The elastics are stiffer on the Mk2 than on the Mk1. The Mk2's headband was so stiff that it would actually pull the headphones off their optimum position for me, and I always had to adjust them every 5 minutes to get a good fit. But if the Mk2 was right for you, then I can see how a Mk1 would be too loose (or your elastics are just worn as you say).

 I would suggest bending the headband to put more clamping force on the earpads. The headband is metal and you're not going to damage anything from manhandling it. Play around with fit and clamping force, since a single millimeter's difference in ear/driver distance can make a big difference in the sound. The Mk1 is insanely fit-dependent.

 I would also suggest replacing earpads ASAP, and stocking up on earpads while they're still available._

 

I sent my only set of O2 Mk1 earpads to Smeggy for my Smegma Pro (hopefully done soon). Is there any benefit to the Mk1 pads rather than the Mk2 pads on the Mk1? They are kinda expensive just to buy spare Mk1 pads now when I could just buy Mk2 later.

 What about the elastics? What do they cost and where, and does anyone know how stiff or firm they should be?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS: They aren't too loose, just the leather stretchy part is floppy and I have to hold it centered when I put the Mk1 on my head, while I can hold my Mk2 or Jade by the earcups to put them on.


----------



## tako_tsubo

That's pretty loose Larry...mine certainly are not that loose. I consider the Jades headleather very stiff, but the stretchy parts at each end are at about where my O2mk1 are. The leather headrest on the omega holds a nice shape.


----------



## spritzer

The headpad should be a bit loose and flap around on the Mk1 but not _that_ loose. I do find the Mk2 and Jade to exert too much force as they almost pull the phones off the head. 

 The earpads almost certainly need to be replaced and the Mk2 pads will fit (the housings are identical on the Mk1 and Mk2) but be sure to mount the spring underneath the fabric screen.


----------



## Deadneddz

Does it make a difference sonically to use MKII vs MKI pads on the MKI?


----------



## spritzer

The spring is much more important then the pads but there is a bit of a difference. I'm not going to say it is worse, just different.


----------



## Oublie

Hi guys,

 I've got a T1W coming soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so after warmup and initial listening i'm going to want to try different tubes to see how it fares. What tubes do I need and where do i get them. I understand that not everyone likes the same tubes but can you guys give me a few sets that i should try. I'm willing to spend a bit of money on these to get the right ones for me. 

 thanks.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the elastics? What do they cost and where, and does anyone know how stiff or firm they should be?_

 

I have had a few O2mk1's where I had to shorten the elastic band. They relax with age and use. Just take off one side the screws that hold the band and shorten it. Easy!


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My journey will end once I find an O2 Mk1 in better condition 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good that you're helping yourself towards that end by selling for more than you paid an item which you believe to be flawed in its original description.

 How can you possibly justify that behaviour?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 The earpads almost certainly need to be replaced and the Mk2 pads will fit (the housings are identical on the Mk1 and Mk2) but be sure to mount the spring underneath the fabric screen._

 

spritzer, having just replaced my Mk1 pads, I want to make sure I did it right. Would you mind clarifying what you mean about mounting the spring under the fabric screen? Do you simply mean to ensure that the black fabric of the new pad is between your ear and the spring, or is there something more that I am missing?

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer, having just replaced my Mk1 pads, I want to make sure I did it right. Would you mind clarifying what you mean about mounting the spring under the fabric screen? Do you simply mean to ensure that the black fabric of the new pad is between your ear and the spring, or is there something more that I am missing?

 Thanks!_

 

That's exactly what I meant.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had a few O2mk1's where I had to shorten the elastic band. They relax with age and use. Just take off one side the screws that hold the band and shorten it. Easy!_

 

Just take your time with the screws, as the heads are very easy to strip, which I found out the hard way.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kg21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the SRM-007t arrived a little while ago and I am now listening to the SR-404+srm-007t combo for the first time. I guess I shouldn't jump to conclusions but I already feel like I can understand why once you go stax you can't go back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. The speed, resolution, detail, and seperation are stunning. Definitely a lot more revealing than dynamics, one song had almost no bass then another had great impact/extension. Oh and pictures don't do the sr-007t justice it is HUGE._

 

Sweet! Congratulations with a nice Stax system... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Get used to the sound, and you may be completely sold. he he


----------



## Lornecherry

Bought one from Germany with European plug. Is it easy to change the plug to North American 117V type. Anything I need to know, or just change the plug end??


----------



## spritzer

Just change the plug. Check the plate on the back of the SRD-7 as it should say 100v, 117v, 220v and 240v. If it says only 220v then it might be some odd Euro only version...


----------



## indikator

may I ask? what is the difference between 100V and 117V, and between 220V and 240V?
 why not just one 117V and 240V, isn't it for voltage fluctuation tolerance? 
 that is what I know from computer PSU's 230V

 please CMIIW


----------



## Deadneddz

Hey monkey, did you get your replacement earpads from audiocubesII? I want to get a new pair of pads for my MKI, but the condition on mine currently still seems very nice.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headpad should be a bit loose and flap around on the Mk1 but not that loose. I do find the Mk2 and Jade to exert too much force as they almost pull the phones off the head. 

 The earpads almost certainly need to be replaced and the Mk2 pads will fit (the housings are identical on the Mk1 and Mk2) but be sure to mount the spring underneath the fabric screen._

 

I guess I would say the head-pad is only a bit loose and flaps around, because it doesn't sag or anything too severe.

 Also, when you say "mount the spring underneath the fabric screen", do you mean under the flap of material for the skirt, instead of under the plastic ring?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_may I ask? what is the difference between 100V and 117V, and between 220V and 240V?
 why not just one 117V and 240V, isn't it for voltage fluctuation tolerance? 
 that is what I know from computer PSU's 230V

 please CMIIW_

 

100v is the standard in Japan and some countries are still at 220v while others are at 230-240v. There is some margin for error but it is never a good idea to run anything out of spec. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I would say the head-pad is only a bit loose and flaps around, because it doesn't sag or anything too severe.

 Also, when you say "mount the spring underneath the fabric screen", do you mean under the flap of material for the skirt, instead of under the plastic ring?_

 

The pad on mine is a bit loose like that but try sliding it on the elastic so that one side is closer to the earcup. That should stabilize it and with no change in comfort. 

 It should be mounted so that the fabric screen is inside the pads, then the springs comes on top of the plastic support surrounding the screen so that the spring sits closer to the drivers.


----------



## audiod

Nice set of Lambda Pro's on eBay #330305214916. Good "buy it now" price.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice set of Lambda Pro's on eBay #330305214916. Good "buy it now" price._

 

I don't care much for the Buy it Now price. I would go for a 303 from Japan for about $100.00 more to get a new set with some kind of warranty, even if it involves a return to Japan

 I think Stax on Ebay is overpriced because some buyers aren't familiar with, or don't want to try direct importing from Japan.


----------



## Oublie

I've been looking at omega's in japan but they dont seem to go for much less than elsewhere. Not only that but when your not loaded and have been saving towards something like this its a big risk to take particularly when dealing with an intermediate buyer. This is not because theres an issue with the intermediate but because of the lack of warranty. Buying $1400 ear warmers is not something i'd like to have to deal with. Saying that i bought an srdx from japan which is in perfect condition and works great it even came with batteries. I haven't had the never to venture outdoors with my lambda's yet


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice set of Lambda Pro's on eBay #330305214916. Good "buy it now" price._

 

That price is just ok for someone who's dying for a lambda pro. 

 Be different if it came with an SRD-7 Pro or Mk2, but it doesn't.


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been looking at omega's in japan but they dont seem to go for much less than elsewhere. Not only that but when your not loaded and have been saving towards something like this its a big risk to take particularly when dealing with an intermediate buyer. This is not because theres an issue with the intermediate but because of the lack of warranty. Buying $1400 ear warmers is not something i'd like to have to deal with. Saying that i bought an srdx from japan which is in perfect condition and works great it even came with batteries. I haven't had the never to venture outdoors with my lambda's yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'd agree if the warranty was worth a damn. As it stands i dont think a 2 year warranty is all that impressive either for what they cost. Plus if you imported you'd have to factor in intercontinental shipping which isnt cheap and also a slight pain due to the addition of customs paper work. I know from experience that doing this via something like fedex can cost quite a bit [150-$200]. Domestic or used would be the way i'd go.

 Buy used, a tried and true pair that you know works. Pay for repairs as necessary and save a grand off the domestic MSRP.

 Buy domestic, pay full price, enjoy a 2 year warranty which you probably wont require then watch it explode on day 731 of use.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That price is just ok for someone who's dying for a lambda pro. 

 Be different if it came with an SRD-7 Pro or Mk2, but it doesn't._

 

Actually, the Lambda Pro very often go for $350 or near that. SR-Lambdas have been climbing from $225 to $300 lately, and Lambda Signature have been selling for $550-650.


----------



## SoliloCey

whats a good normal bias headphone... i think theres a normqal bias sigmas though they're probably super hard to find...


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spritzer, having just replaced my Mk1 pads, I want to make sure I did it right. Would you mind clarifying what you mean about mounting the spring under the fabric screen? Do you simply mean to ensure that the black fabric of the new pad is between your ear and the spring, or is there something more that I am missing?_

 

Here's that Japanese language manual that a kindly member (I forget who) posted before.

 The diagram shows where the metal spring should fit for the Mk1 and Mk2/A. I think the Mk2 earpads are more difficult to install.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Mk2 earpads are more difficult to install._

 

The Mk2 pads take me only about half the time to install compared to the Mk1 pads. The pleather is much looser and easier to get in the slot.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whats a good normal bias headphone... i think theres a normqal bias sigmas though they're probably super hard to find..._

 

I own the lambda normal bias cans, pro and signature and would say imho the normal bias lambdas are the best of them with most music. Second comes the signatures and then the pro's. However, the normal cans lead by quite a way with the signatures and pros close together. Initially i fell in love with the signatures but after the new toy phase wore off the normal bias lambdas are back on top. The sig are darn good and do have a lot more bass than the normal cans but that's not always necessary. 

 From what i've read the normal sigmas aren't as good as the pro sigmas which use original signature drivers. There was a set of normal sigmas up for sale recently that i though about buying in order to make a set of pro's using my signature drivers and creating a second set of normal lambdas from the sig chassis. Price went too high for me though.


----------



## Oublie

Boy i'm on a roll today. Anyone ever use a Stax DAC Talent and if so how would you rate them?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice set of Lambda Pro's on eBay #330305214916. Good "buy it now" price._

 

BIN $265 is not bad at all.
 Ok, as 'edstrelow' say you can buy a new SR-303 from Japan for $100 more. But some prefer vintage and/or out-of-production Stax'en over the current ones.


----------



## The Monkey

Thanks for the pic, Elephas, it's helpful. Yet another pad question: I can see the outline of the spring in certain parts of my new mk1 pads. Is this common or an indication that I have done something stupid?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the pic, Elephas, it's helpful. Yet another pad question: I can see the outline of the spring in certain parts of my new mk1 pads. Is this common or an indication that I have done something stupid?_

 

Nope, you should see the outline of the spring all around the earpad


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what's a good normal bias headphone... i think theres a normal bias sigmas though they're probably super hard to find..._

 

My take is Lambda and Sigma Normal Bias. Sigmas do sound surprisingly good when well driven, and they have the best soundstage. Normal Bias Lambdas are more precise in instrument placement and quite even across the sound spectrum. Good luck in finding some Sigmas.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My take is Lambda and Sigma Normal Bias. Sigmas do sound surprisingly good when well driven, and they have the best soundstage. Normal Bias Lambdas are more precise in instrument placement and quite even across the sound spectrum. Good luck in finding some Sigmas._

 

Or good luck with winning this auction 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



CASQUE ELECTRODYNAMIQUE STAX SR SIGMA + AMPLI SRD-X en vente sur eBay.fr (fin le 09-fÃ©vr.-09 20:56:00 Paris)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd agree if the warranty was worth a damn. As it stands i dont think a 2 year warranty is all that impressive either for what they cost. Plus if you imported you'd have to factor in intercontinental shipping which isnt cheap and also a slight pain due to the addition of customs paper work. I know from experience that doing this via something like fedex can cost quite a bit [150-$200]. Domestic or used would be the way i'd go.

 Buy used, a tried and true pair that you know works. Pay for repairs as necessary and save a grand off the domestic MSRP.

 Buy domestic, pay full price, enjoy a 2 year warranty which you probably wont require then watch it explode on day 731 of use. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Buy domestic if you wish, but I have never had any customs involvement in several years of bringing both audio and general E-bay merchandise into the country. 

 My last new audio item from Japan was the Stax 007A which cost $1,861.60 total shipped from EIFL with misc. paypal charges. I got it about 7 days after my Paypal payment was made.


----------



## Veefy

Would a WooAudio GES be overkill for a SR-303? Anyone heard that combo?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would a WooAudio GES be overkill for a SR-303? Anyone heard that combo?_

 

I have heard the combo, and the GES definitely is not overkill. Nice combination.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Veefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would a WooAudio GES be overkill for a SR-303? Anyone heard that combo?_

 

The GES is good with everything, and the best amp I have tried so far.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whats a good normal bias headphone... i think theres a normqal bias sigmas though they're probably super hard to find..._

 

Gregg,
 for low bias Sigmas, imagine the sound as a Lambda Nova Signature with the upper treble and deep bass rolled off and a mid bass emphasis. If you get a low bias Sigma, transplant in the 404 drivers and cable for much better sound, but this winds up quite expensive (guesstimate of US $1000 all up) and getting close to second hand O2 territory. The O2 is a much better phone, and not as ugly.


----------



## indydieselnut

I'm enjoying head-fi and look forward to many posts, hopefully making a contribution
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll certainly report on my impressions of my new system once I get it put together. iMac=>DacMagic=>Gilmore Lite=>Denon AH-D2000. I put the new system together (with a Drobo storage system) so that I can get my 3,500+ discs "backed up" in WAV format. I figure I'll need somewhere in the ballpark of 2.5TB and the Drobo will do that nicely. 

 One thing that I can say of my Stax rig that might be interesting to a few people is how similar it sounded to my old speaker based system. That was John Otvos' Waveform Mach 17 speakers system that was tri-amplified with a Bryston-built external active crossover. I had two Bryston 5B-ST 3 channel amps fed by a Bryston BP-25 and a Krell 300 series cd-player. From a tonal spectrum perspective it was voiced very much like the Stax system. For what it's worth, there's a little contribution
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can't post in the FS forum until I have 50 posts and 1 month on head-fi. I enjoy all of you very much so I'll hang around until I get there (and beyond!)

 John


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I report anyone I see just posting replies like "wow" or "x2" just to run up their post count._

 

x2


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_. I put the new system together (with a Drobo storage system) so that I can get my 3,500+ discs "backed up" in WAV format._

 

Don't bother with WAV. Use FLAC. Saves some space, and it is demonstrably just as good.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't bother with WAV. Use FLAC. Saves some space, and it is demonstrably just as good._

 

Also with WAV I don't think you retain ID3 tags for album, artist, song name and such. If you think FLAC or ALAC will result in quality loss, at least use AIFF. I personally use ALAC.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I personally use ALAC._

 

 x2


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_x2_

 

What hasn't the mod done anything with this post yet? Hmmm...

 Actually I should have said "I report anyone who is *only* posting replies like "x2" or "wow" to drum up their post count."


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Buy domestic if you wish, but I have never had any customs involvement in several years of bringing both audio and general E-bay merchandise into the country. 

 My last new audio item from Japan was the Stax 007A which cost $1,861.60 total shipped from EIFL with misc. paypal charges. I got it about 7 days after my Paypal payment was made._

 

Its a bit more work to prepair a package thats going overseas due to the customs paperwork, i said nothing of an intervention which would delay things though thats always possible.

 EIFL seems to have the best price by far but most ebay merchants and audiocubes are asking for 2-2.1k for the headphone, which if you ask me doesnt make sense. As i said the round trip shipping for a warranty repair would run you as much as $150+ [depending on speed].


----------



## eruditass

whats the point up upping the post count anyway?

 hm, i almost forgot about my lonely stax. it is in the big room with the big tv and speaker system and i barely get any time to use it. 

 so i'm faced with two options:
 -get my own decent / cheap speaker amp
 -get a stax amp to replace the energizer
 -build a soha II i was eyeing for my dynamics


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoomzDayz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whats the point up upping the post count anyway?

 [snip useless stax discussion]_

 

You need 50 posts and a month membership to post in the For Sale forums. Some people waste their posts on meaningless replies to get there faster.

 Now, go get a decent cheap speaker amp for the energizer. If you want something small you can try a Nuforce Icon 12 watt/ch (desktop) or a Travagans Red 5 watt/ch amp, as I find they do a decent job. The Nuforce is a much better speaker amp than headphone amp, while the Travagans is a better headphone amp than it is speaker amp (but they both drive Stax transformers very well). The Stax O2 with SRD-7 Pro need the 12 watt amp, but the 5 watt amp is good for normal bias phones and SRD-7 SB (although Travagans is also very good with SR-003 on SRD-7 Pro).


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The GES is good with everything, and the best amp I have tried so far._

 

It's really a great amp. I just wish it had a bit more oomph with the O2.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm enjoying head-fi and look forward to many posts, hopefully making a contribution
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll certainly report on my impressions of my new system once I get it put together. iMac=>DacMagic=>Gilmore Lite=>Denon AH-D2000. I put the new system together (with a Drobo storage system) so that I can get my 3,500+ discs "backed up" in WAV format. I figure I'll need somewhere in the ballpark of 2.5TB and the Drobo will do that nicely. 
 John_

 

I went to a pc based playback. I use EAC to covert to flac, Foobar to playback 
 through a Monica NOS DAC. Average about 350MB per cd. 
 Terabyte drives are down to about $110 each. Two should handle it. 
 But backup could be a bit dicey with 2T of storage. It's also going to 
 take forever to convert your cd's.


----------



## indydieselnut

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to go the ALAC route. ktm - believe me, I know it's going to take forever to load 3,500+ cds. I'm planning on shooting for 10 cds a morning, four days a week. That's just under two years. I'm sure I can do more, but that'll probably be an average. Plus, one of the reasons I'm doing this is that at least 750 of the classical cds are out of print. I'll be correcting track data as it's loading and scanning in album artwork that's missing. That'll take time! I bought an external DVD/CD drive for the iMac so that I don't end up burning up the internal drive!

 As far as etiquette - have I been "hijacking" this thread? I've been talking about my Stax system but I've also been asking questions like this. Is this allowed on head-fi or do I need to be more on-topic?

 Just learning the ropes...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Headphone addict and Sherwood - how do I give head-fi peeps a chance at it if I can't post in the FS forum?_

 

Contribute to the community. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Posting 35 more posts, without spamming the forum with just non-sense..

 Note that its not all about the 50 posts, but also to in some way show that you're credible and mostly risk free to deal with.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to go the ALAC route. ktm - believe me, I know it's going to take forever to load 3,500+ cds. I'm planning on shooting for 10 cds a morning, four days a week. That's just under two years. I'm sure I can do more, but that'll probably be an average. Plus, one of the reasons I'm doing this is that at least 750 of the classical cds are out of print. I'll be correcting track data as it's loading and scanning in album artwork that's missing. That'll take time! I bought an external DVD/CD drive for the iMac so that I don't end up burning up the internal drive!

 As far as etiquette - have I been "hijacking" this thread? I've been talking about my Stax system but I've also been asking questions like this. Is this allowed on head-fi or do I need to be more on-topic?

 Just learning the ropes..._

 

-I am still confused as to why you are giving up such a killer stax set up. You have a system right now that people save up for, for years! But, I digress. 
 -if your post is stax related, post it here. there are a lot of "burn format" and "computer as source" threads worth reading, so you might want to check that out.
 -I also want a d2000 set up, but I would Never get rid of my stax! oops, almost ranted again! lol. good luck with your post count and eventual sale. wish I had the bread.


----------



## indydieselnut

krmathis - now just 34 more posts
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, I've said before I'm enjoying this forum and I'd like to be around for a long time. 

 The one thing I've never been fully pleased with as far as the SRM-T1W/LNS is concerned is the reproduction of solo cello. I've been playing cello for 20 years as a student, amateur, and professional. That doesn't make me an expert but one thing I've always desired to have "done right" is the sound of a solo cello. There's something going on in the mid-bass that sometimes sounds slightly anemic to me. Is this characteristic of this setup or should I be looking elsewhere in my playback chain? Again, this is VERY slight and I only notice it with solo cello. Perhaps a different tube in the T1W? Suggestions? 

 I'm willing to accept that it might be that the Stax system is just very accurate to the recording without adding any warmth. I'm also willing to accept that the sound I hear behind my own cello is what I'm most familiar with and it's coloring what I'm hearing through the 'phones. 

 I realize the fact that I'm a musician probably hurts my cause in terms of appearing to be relatively risk-free to deal with...


----------



## kg21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indydieselnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis - now just 34 more posts
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, I've said before I'm enjoying this forum and I'd like to be around for a long time. 

 The one thing I've never been fully pleased with as far as the SRM-T1W/LNS is concerned is the reproduction of solo cello. I've been playing cello for 20 years as a student, amateur, and professional. That doesn't make me an expert but one thing I've always desired to have "done right" is the sound of a solo cello. There's something going on in the mid-bass that sometimes sounds slightly anemic to me. Is this characteristic of this setup or should I be looking elsewhere in my playback chain? Again, this is VERY slight and I only notice it with solo cello. Perhaps a different tube in the T1W? Suggestions? 

 I'm willing to accept that it might be that the Stax system is just very accurate to the recording without adding any warmth. I'm also willing to accept that the sound I hear behind my own cello is what I'm most familiar with and it's coloring what I'm hearing through the 'phones. 

 I realize the fact that I'm a musician probably hurts my cause in terms of appearing to be relatively risk-free to deal with... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It could definitely be a combination of both meaning super revealing of recordings and the tubes in there. I got my setup a couple days ago and on some songs it seriously sounds like there is no bass at all(like it's broken), whereas others have plenty of impact and weight, this includes the midbass. It's not just the quality (128kbps vs flac) its very specific recording by recording there are some dynamic headphones that are revealing of sources (Ety er-4, dt-880, sa5000, etc) but electrostatics seem to be on another level in that regard. I would guess a good warm dynamic phone+tubes might be what your looking for if cello is supposed to have a lot of weight/warmth.


----------



## ktm

Time to go to a head fi meet. Check out other systems and combos.
 No single speaker or headphone setup does everything perfectly.
 Drums, sax, piano, etc. all have their own sound signature.
 Another member of the Stax headphone family might cover this 
 better than the set you have. Maybe rolling tubes in the amp 
 could help? What you hear as the player, and what someone
 listening in the same room also could be different. Sound energy
 changes as you get farther away from the source.
 BTW, piano is my big thing. I grew up with one in the living room.
 I never was much of a musician, but my sister plays a clarinet
 professionally. And she is a good guitar/piano player.
 I'm all thumbs, I couldn't make music if you held a gun to my head.
 I have to settle for good playback!


----------



## indydieselnut

It certainly sounds like I could use a change of tubes but I don't even know where to start...shoot, I don't even know what tubes are in there right now! I was thinking about sending the whole shooting match to Accutech to get the RCA plug sleeve replaced. While there I could have them replace the tubes and bias the unit but I don't have the first clue what the "best" tube would be for my application.

 I am certainly ready to hear some recommendations from anyone with experience in this area. Also, if you make a recommendation maybe you could give me a good place to procure them as well? 

 The idea of the sound I hear behind the cello being different from the sound the microphone picks up is very familiar to me. As a cellist I also listen to quite a few live cello recitals/concerts. The final piece of the puzzle is all the recording I did in college with my modest setup (Neumann KM184's and a Tascam DAT...that's all). Those can be pretty thin sounding mics for string instruments and I became accutely aware of the recorded sound vs. what I heard behind my instrument. 

 As a side note - is the SRM-T1W capable of driving the SRS-007MK2 'phones? I've been reading a lot about those on this thread and am curious about what I would gain between the LNS and those...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's really a great amp. I just wish it had a bit more oomph with the O2._

 

The only thing it can't do well with O2 so far is to blast electronica at high ossicle-tickling volumes, which is when I'll grab the D2000 or Edition 9 if I need that experience of deep pervasive pounding visceral bass.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only thing it can't do well with O2 so far is to blast electronica at high ossicle-tickling volumes, which is when I'll grab the D2000 or Edition 9 if I need that experience of deep pervasive pounding visceral bass._

 

I'm not sure I agree with that. I think the GES is only ok when it comes to the serious low end, not great. And that includes genres other than electronica in my experience. The major caveat is that most of my listening to the GES has been under less than ideal conditions. But the KGSS has more of that low end pounding bass.

 Regardless, there could easily be a GES in my future if only for the pairing with my Lambda Signatures.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure I agree with that. I think the GES is only ok when it comes to the serious low end, not great. And that includes genres other than electronica in my experience. The major caveat is that most of my listening to the GES has been under less than ideal conditions. But the KGSS has more of that low end pounding bass.

 Regardless, there could easily be a GES in my future if only for the pairing with my Lambda Signatures. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

GES performance can vary with tubes used as well. Given the right tubes, particularly if Maxxed, I'd be surprised if it couldn't deliver some serious low end to the right ESP.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I report anyone I see just posting replies like "wow" or "x2" just to run up their post count. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_x2_

 

Wow. I've cracked a few smiles reading Head-fi over the last few months, but Sherwood actually had me laughing for a day over this. Now I gotta overcome my shy-newbie-ness and make some occassional posts instead of just PMing all you guys with my dumb questions and opinions.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow. I've cracked a few smiles reading Head-fi over the last few months, but Sherwood actually had me laughing for a day over this. Now I gotta overcome my shy-newbie-ness and make some occassional posts instead of just PMing all you guys with my dumb questions and opinions._

 

That was much better than a x2, so you are not reported. U can haz stax.


----------



## Lornecherry

...and I report those who report. 

 Seriously, before you decide for or against a headphone; look at your entire audio chain from the wall plug onward. The signature will change more than that of a conman with a stack of stolen cheques, with exactly the same headphone (and in the case of Stax, the amp), if you make changes upstream. 

 Most Stax resolve very well; don't tolerate bright source material, but they are true to the recording (minus an octave or two way down).

 When I use my REL subwoofer with my Stax Lambda Sigs (I have both SRM-T1 and T1W) nothing is missing in organics. But if I take my DAC out of the equation and substitute a lesser DAC -- yuk, I want to sell the Stax and go with dynamic. Before you say ye or nah, look at everything in your audio chain.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I gotta overcome my shy-newbie-ness_

 

Since you've clearly mastered the multi-quote already, I think you'll have nothing to fear here. Welcome!


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure I agree with that. I think the GES is only ok when it comes to the serious low end, not great. And that includes genres other than electronica in my experience. The major caveat is that most of my listening to the GES has been under less than ideal conditions. But the KGSS has more of that low end pounding bass.

 Regardless, there could easily be a GES in my future if only for the pairing with my Lambda Signatures. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

for the O2, i definitely prefer the KGSS over the GES. the KGSS just seems to drive the O2 with more authority. of course, i have not heard a maxxed Woo, so maybe that would change things, or maybe not. hard to say.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_for the O2, i definitely prefer the KGSS over the GES. the KGSS just seems to drive the O2 with more authority. of course, i have not heard a maxxed Woo, so maybe that would change things, or maybe not. hard to say._

 

If the O2 were my only phone I would probably want a KGSS for more power, or a KGBH. The GES is good for 90% of my listening, and I can fall back on the dynamics for the other bit.

 That's not to say someday I wont have a more powerful amp, but it isn't killing me to listen to the O2 on the GES.


----------



## dickbianchi

Hi:

 I have bought an amp, an srm-007t, and have ordered some 404s. It seems, I now discover, that the 404s haven't shipped after a week (Audio Affair UK)and I am about to cancel the order and buy elsewhere. 

 Anyway it appears that the amp will get here soon, and the only stax phones in my possession are the srd-30 electrets. These have a 5 pin plug. My new amp will have a normal bias as well as pro bias outlet. If I plug the electrets into the normal bias outlet, will I harm them?... the amp?... me?

 Even tho I will not have the phones I want, I'd like --if it is an ok match -- to listen to the amp with the electrets.

 Thanks


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the O2 were my only phone I would probably want a KGSS for more power, or a KGBH. The GES is good for 90% of my listening, and I can fall back on the dynamics for the other bit.

 That's not to say someday I wont have a more powerful amp, but it isn't killing me to listen to the O2 on the GES._

 

This is soo 'Head-Fi'... You have a maxed GES that you're apparently very happy with, but there will always be that better amp at the horizon...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is soo 'Head-Fi'... You have a maxed GES that you're apparently very happy with, but there will always be that better amp at the horizon... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Mine isn't even maxxed and I fully agree with HeadphoneAddict.

 It's not so much a 'Head-Fi' characteristic as a 'Hi-Fi' characteristic. Will love the sound I have but that doesn't mean I don't believe there could be better (and unfortunately they do tend to be more expensive at the upper levels) options out there.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lornecherry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and I report those who report. 

 Seriously, before you decide for or against a headphone; look at your entire audio chain from the wall plug onward. The signature will change more than that of a conman with a stack of stolen cheques, with exactly the same headphone (and in the case of Stax, the amp), if you make changes upstream. 

 Most Stax resolve very well; don't tolerate bright source material, but they are true to the recording (minus an octave or two way down)._

 

Just a little confirmation of the above ...

 Yesterday, on a whim, I decided to try feeding my Stax amp direct from my Auzentech Prelude's output jack ... (I normally run from a Havana tube DAC to the Stax) ...

 And man ... I was floored with just how crappy the Stax sounded coming out of the Prelude soundcard! It was almost unbearable compared to running from my Havana DAC: hard, grainy, shrill and very ugly/metallic sounding.

 I have found the Stax to be even more source dependant than my Grado RS1's (or the GS1000's) ... 

 As soon as I went back to the Havana? Ahhhhhhh, so smooth and spatious and natural sounding ....

 Also ...

 On a whim this past evening, I tried a DVD movie with the Stax (Bourne Identity) and I gotta say ... the spatial performance/3D effects were quite good on the Stax ... 

 Anyway ... just a couple words. More later as I break in the Gs1000's as I want to do a pretty in depth comparison of the Stax and the 1000's ...


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *s1rrah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a little confirmation of the above ...

 Yesterday, on a whim, I decided to try feeding my Stax amp direct from my Auzentech Prelude's output jack ... (I normally run from a Havana tube DAC to the Stax) ...

 And man ... I was floored with just how crappy the Stax sounded coming out of the Prelude soundcard! It was almost unbearable compared to running from my Havana DAC: hard, grainy, shrill and very ugly/metallic sounding.

 I have found the Stax to be even more source dependant than my Grado RS1's (or the GS1000's) ... 

 As soon as I went back to the Havana? Ahhhhhhh, so smooth and spatious and natural sounding ....
 ..._

 

Out of curiosity, did you try running the grados or some other dynamic headphone out of the prelude and then out of the Havana? And was the
 degradation significantly less than the Stax?


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of curiosity, did you try running the grados or some other dynamic headphone out of the prelude and then out of the Havana? And was the
 degradation significantly less than the Stax?_

 

The degradation is quite noticeable with either my Grado rig or the Stax rig ... but for some reason, I felt it more obvious and ugly sounding with the Stax.

 That is not to say that I feel the Stax to be a more detailed rig, because I'm truly on the fence for the moment regarding that notion ... 

 But the Stax did seem to suffer more direct out from the sound card than do the Grados ...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_for the O2, i definitely prefer the KGSS over the GES. the KGSS just seems to drive the O2 with more authority. of course, i have not heard a maxxed Woo, so maybe that would change things, or maybe not. hard to say._

 

There was one at the last NYC Meet. It was near the entrance, I think it's Yikes's? Did you listen to that amp? I did, and frankly did not hear too much of a difference between the Max and the standard GES. But meet conditions make that a tough call. Also the source was so-so. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's not to say someday I wont have a more powerful amp, but it isn't killing me to listen to the O2 on the GES._

 

Yes, I agree. I do not in any way think the O2 sounds bad on the GES. And it's an all-around terrific amp.

 I should add that I thought the O2 mk2 sounded good out of the GES, too. But I happen to like the mk2. Maybe not better than the mk1, but I still like it.


----------



## Oublie

Hi guys Quick question, How many watts would a t1w draw when running maxed out. reason i'm asking is i'm about to order a 500va (500w) step down transformer 240v on the wal to 100v step down and dont want one that is too weak. Maybe this is overkill?


----------



## spritzer

The rating on the back is the maximum current drawn under any circumstances. It draws about 50w so 500 should be plenty. That said it's not hard to change the voltage on 99% of the T1W's.


----------



## Oublie

Cheers Spritzer. BTW i got that parcel much appreciated.


----------



## spritzer

Good to know.


----------



## indydieselnut

I wanted to issue a formal apology regarding my first foray into the head-fi forum. My original intent was to gather information regarding my particular models of Stax gear and what was required to achieve similar performance but, once I decided that I'd be happier without it, my participation here transitioned into a desire to sell it. I was asking more from head-fi than I was giving. Please accept my apology. 

 Thanks to all that have been free with advice and information. I'm not a transient and I plan to continue to participate - although probably not as much on the Stax thread
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I received my AH-D2000 'phones and my Gilmore Lite amp yesterday and got them hooked up first thing this morning.

 Cheers,
 John


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lornecherry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and I report those who report. 

 Seriously, before you decide for or against a headphone; look at your entire audio chain from the wall plug onward. The signature will change more than that of a conman with a stack of stolen cheques, with exactly the same headphone (and in the case of Stax, the amp), if you make changes upstream. 

 Most Stax resolve very well; don't tolerate bright source material, but they are true to the recording (minus an octave or two way down).

 When I use my REL subwoofer with my Stax Lambda Sigs (I have both SRM-T1 and T1W) nothing is missing in organics. But if I take my DAC out of the equation and substitute a lesser DAC -- yuk, I want to sell the Stax and go with dynamic. Before you say ye or nah, look at everything in your audio chain._

 

 Oh yeah, I often used to play the speakers with subwoofers on simultaneously with the Lamdas too. Now I need a phone that does'nt require that boost, as I have a baby. 
 I also am having a bit of a Stax crisis, but it's premature to act upon and go solely dynamic. I still have till Spring/Summer to see how dramatically the KGBHSE could improve things with the O2. 
 In the meantime, I'm trying to get the most out of my O2MK1/717. I bent the arcs a tiny bit, to Spritzer's instructions, and I feel the phones a bit more comfortable, with the bass more natural sounding (before it felt like the bass was almost too tight, like the sound became little compressed balls of energy). This is probably due to my head size. But lately I'm frequently hearing & feeling my pulse through the bottom rear of the left earpad! Anything I can do about this?


----------



## edstrelow

I have an old Stax SRA 12S which has a power socket at the rear of the unit. Recently I have got into the PS Audio Noise Harvester which is a type of line noise filter which is plugged directly into a wall socket or socket on a power strip. 

 I have now also plugged it into the Stax amp itself with possibly better results than when plugged into the power strip which feeds the amp. 

 The 12S is an older unit and I was mostly testing it with the SRXMk3 phones. As well as comparing the sound with the Harvester on the power strip, I tried the Mk3 with an identical cd player feeding the Stax SRM1Mk2 amp, which is one of Stax' better old amps, and with the Harvester plugged into the supporting power strip. The 12S sounded better, more ambience, wider soundfield, richer sound. 

 I am not sure how many other Stax amps have a power socket to try this trick. But if you have a 12 S, get a Harvester and give it a shot. You can always use the Harvester in the wall socket if you don't like it on the amp.


----------



## billyearle

Thanks supersquirrel, (sorry if that's sassy, I always remember people here by their avatar, except elephas who's sign on name matches his avatar). I was looking up some reviews when I saw you mention these a week or two ago, and got intimidated by the suggestion that you need 3-5 of these to make a difference. 
 I would have to put it in the power strip, do you think just one would really help? I might buy 2 (1 for each power strip), but am hesitant to invest more at this stage. 
 admittedly, I remember your sig is edelstrow, but that's only because I saw it a minute ago.
 oops, I peeked, I see I got it your sig wrong even now
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I still don't get how those "noise harvesters" work - not to belittle anyone but it seems a little magical to me.


----------



## billyearle

Well, impressionable newbie me, I just ordered 2 for $70 each. I'll try to post my reactions to them. I've generally steered clear of these tweak items in the past, put all my $ into components & cds and skimped on the rest, but we'll see.


----------



## AudioCats

maybe there is a cap multiplier inside, it sucks up a lot of RF noise.


----------



## spritzer

Most of these filters are just caps across the neutral and hot lines which will clean up RF from the lines. DC voltage can't pass through capacitors so it will be removed. 

 I just checked the SRA-12S schematic and it is a very poor design indeed. The HV PSU is a simple voltage doubler with no regulation so it will be very susceptible to any noise on the AC line.


----------



## SoliloCey

Australia Post better have those Stax'ens at my door by tomorrow or Im writing a formal complaint!!!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still don't get how those "noise harvesters" work - not to belittle anyone but it seems a little magical to me._

 


 Line noise elimination doesn't sound magical per se. Proprietary magic possibly. I saw a thread where Patrick88 opened one up but it was all enclosed so he couldn't see what was in it.

 Whether some gizmo works or works in your set-up is another issue. 

 $70.00 is a fairly low price for a tweak. I saw an add with Audioadvisor but you had to buy 3 to get a good price and that seemed too risky. So I went elsewhere and just got one. After I tried it, I liked it and got more.

 With stats just about eveything anywhere in the chain makes some sonic change. Sometimes with tweaks it is hard to say if "better" or just "different" or whether there is a tradeoff. Eg. my experience with some power strips with filtering is that they seem to limit dynamics. 

 I use power strips as little as I can, and prefer the Wiremold, which doesn't have any filtering, protection or even have a switch. It was Naim's recommended strip for a while and only cost about $15.00 from a non-audio store. $50.00 from an unnamed audio dealer. But if you live in a high lightning area you may be forced into serious line protection irespective of sonic trade-offs.

 At any rate I liked this gizmo. However I suspect it would be less impressive if you are already using power filtering although I have seen some people recommend the Harvester as a supplement.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Line noise elimination doesn't sound magical per se. Proprietary magic possibly. I saw a thread where Patrick88 opened one up but it was all enclosed so he couldn't see what was in it.

 Whether some gizmo works or works in your set-up is another issue. 

 $70.00 is a fairly low price for a tweak. I saw an add with Audioadvisor but you had to buy 3 to get a good price and that seemed too risky. So I went elsewhere and just got one. After I tried it, I liked it and got more.

 With stats just about eveything anywhere in the chain makes some sonic change. Sometimes with tweaks it is hard to say if "better" or just "different" or whether there is a tradeoff. Eg. my experience with some power strips with filtering is that they seem to limit dynamics. 

 I use power strips as little as I can, and prefer the Wiremold, which doesn't have any filtering, protection or even have a switch. It was Naim's recommended strip for a while and only cost about $15.00 from a non-audio store. $50.00 from an unnamed audio dealer. But if you live in a high lightning area you may be forced into serious line protection irespective of sonic trade-offs.

 At any rate I liked this gizmo. However I suspect it would be less impressive if you are already using power filtering although I have seen some people recommend as a supplement._

 

The part that confuses me is that it doesn't plug in between the amp and the wall power, it plugs in anywhere in the room, or the same socket, or powerstrip. So, how does it work if it isn't "between" the amp and the power?


----------



## edstrelow

I would assume it lowers noise overall in the lines and that just being in the vicinity of the power plug helps. My impression of plugging it into the socket of the Stax SRA12S amp is that it is more effective here because it is closer to the amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would assume it lowers noise overall in the lines and that just being in the vicinity of the power plug helps. My impression of plugging it into the socket of the Stax SRA12S amp is that it is more effective here because it is closer to the amp._

 

I just don't understand how, if it is not between the amp and noise, that it can block the noise by sucking it up like a sponge nearby. It just doesn't make sense to me.


----------



## erikzen

I don't hear any line noise in my setup. Maybe I'm just lucky. I just wonder how many people buy these things thinking they're going to eliminate some noise they can't really hear in the first place and then think they are getting "blacker" backgrounds. If your system already sounds good why spend $70 a pop on a "noise harvester"? Save your money and buy something you can actually hear, like new headphones or new music.

 If you're getting hum or noise in your system that's another thing, but I would try to figure out what was causing it first if at all possible. Heck if you're going to buy five of these things, you can probably have an electrician run a "home run" directly from your electrical panel to your listening area and install a good quality socket for about the same money.


----------



## SoliloCey

my STAX just arrived 10 minutes ago!!!!!

 WOOT! thanks webbie


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *erikzen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't hear any line noise in my setup. Maybe I'm just lucky. I just wonder how many people buy these things thinking they're going to eliminate some noise they can't really hear in the first place and then think they are getting "blacker" backgrounds. If your system already sounds good why spend $70 a pop on a "noise harvester"? Save your money and buy something you can actually hear, like new headphones or new music.

 If you're getting hum or noise in your system that's another thing, but I would try to figure out what was causing it first if at all possible. Heck if you're going to buy five of these things, you can probably have an electrician run a "home run" directly from your electrical panel to your listening area and install a good quality socket for about the same money._

 

I didn't think I had any noise in my system either. 

 You are not going to hear hiss or hum in particular. What you get is subtle and not so subtle distortion. Anyway try it and see. Most shops will allow you to return items bought by mail within 30 days. 

 If you can get a re-wired "home run" and socket for $70 I'd say do it. My electrician brother-in-law in Las Vegas charges a minimum $300.00 to show up at your home before he starts billing for specific work. 

 Some people, like my kids deny there is any benefit beyond spending $10.00 on a new pair of headphones for their Ipods.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't think I had any noise in my system either. 

 You are not going to hear hiss or hum in particular. What you get is subtle and not so subtle distortion. Anyway try it and see. Most shops will allow you to return items bought by mail within 30 days. 

 If you can get a re-wired "home run" and socket for $70 I'd say do it. My electrician brother-in-law in Las Vegas charges a minimum $300.00 to show up at your home before he starts billing for specific work. 

 Some people, like my kids deny there is any benefit beyond spending $10.00 on a new pair of headphones for their Ipods._

 

 Phew, I was beginning to feel like a chump after some of those earlier posts, and maybe I am, I'll have to wait and see.
 But I do already have power strips, and I was told they have surge protection, but I don't know if they've got filtering (probably do). Ed, when you mentioned Wiremold, I got interested, BUT, I do need surge protection. 
 I don't suppose there's any way possible to have your cake and eat it too, by getting the Wiremold and somehow putting surge protection in the chain somewhere without it cancelling the sonic benefits of the Wiremold???


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still don't get how those "noise harvesters" work - not to belittle anyone but it seems a little magical to me._

 

if you google it the general consensus is that its basically Snake oil. A number of people heard no change, some did. Personally i'd chalk that up to the good old placebo effect.

 One things for certain, you'd be far better off investing any money you'd waste on noise harvesters into a good high quality power strip. If you're really fanatical about it theres always the option of getting a separate power source.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_my STAX just arrived 10 minutes ago!!!!!

 WOOT! thanks webbie_

 

No worries. Now we all await your impressions...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Phew, I was beginning to feel like a chump after some of those earlier posts, and maybe I am, I'll have to wait and see.
 But I do already have power strips, and I was told they have surge protection, but I don't know if they've got filtering (probably do). Ed, when you mentioned Wiremold, I got interested, BUT, I do need surge protection. 
 I don't suppose there's any way possible to have your cake and eat it too, by getting the Wiremold and somehow putting surge protection in the chain somewhere without it cancelling the sonic benefits of the Wiremold???_

 

Possibly a large current regenerator such as PS flagship model

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/r...erator-313589/

 protected and then your set-up placed after with minimalist strips like the Wiremold.

 I really don't know about the except the are about $2k and I doubt that the Harvester would make any improvement over that.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_if you google it the general consensus is that its basically Snake oil. A number of people heard no change, some did. Personally i'd chalk that up to the good old placebo effect.

 One things for certain, you'd be far better off investing any money you'd waste on noise harvesters into a good high quality power strip. If you're really fanatical about it theres always the option of getting a separate power source._

 

I am always amazed that tweaking brings out such hostility. 

 Actually I did a Google before ordering the first one and showed a general acceptance of small but important benefits. $70.00 isn't much to invest to try something out for yourself and shops like Audio Advisior will (and probably have to) allow a return within 30 days.

 I get really tired of people talking about snake-oil and placebo effects. BFD! 
 Maybe when you listen to a $2K Omega or any other item of equipment its all Placebo too. There's been no psychophysical test to determine that a majority of listeners think it is better than anything else on the market. 

 Such science as there is in audio is in the engineering side and the 
 pschophysics of what makes good audio are almost non-existent. As an old prof once told me "there's a lot we don't know before we don't know that!"

 So it's back to golden ears and personal experimentation. As regards reviews, some listeners have tin ears and mid-fi equipment. I want to see reviews made by people who appear to be seriously into this hobby and have invested time and money to back up that interest. And then I do my own listening test. You should do the same before you attack something.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am always amazed that tweaking brings out such hostility. 
_

 

I am not sure "hostility" is the right word. 
 "Reaction" perhaps is what you had in mind.

 As a prof myself, I always tell my students what your old prof told you.

*"there's a lot we don't know before we don't know that!"*

 my problem is that many times, I tend to forget it myself.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What does BFD and Snake Oil mean?
 I do know what the "Placebo Effect" is.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am always amazed that tweaking brings out such hostility._

 

Me too. This is the reason why I don't usually post about cables, power conditioning or other associated gear.

 FWIW, I use an Isotek Sigmas power conditioner, an Isotek wall-wart type noise reducer, an Acoustic Revive power strip and silver power cables with either Oyaide or Furutech plugs.


----------



## dickbianchi

Snake Oil I know. Have bought some myself.

 That said, Im always amazed that people can be so certain of their conclusions about equipment --or about tweaks, either positively or negatively. 

 Synergy. 

 MAYBE if I try a tweak and think it's worth the money, that's because it works well with my equipment and cables and mains and other tweaks. 
 MAYBE the sound IS improved. MAYBE Im willling to risk a little cash and
 dont feel the need to justify it to myself. 

 Conversely, MAYBE if I try a tweak and hear no improvement, that's because it doesnt work well in my SYSTEM, and the sound is NOT improved. MAYBE
 I'd like to return it or try it in some other system.

 It always helps me if, when talking about improvements in sound, one gives as much detail as possible.

 Beyond a certain point, claiming exactitude in what we hear, and what absolutely constitutes better sound is truely snake oil, and probably even
 BFD, if I knew what it meant.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No worries. Now we all await your impressions... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

My precious... My precious...


----------



## erikzen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't think I had any noise in my system either. 

 If you can get a re-wired "home run" and socket for $70 I'd say do it. My electrician brother-in-law in Las Vegas charges a minimum $300.00 to show up at your home before he starts billing for specific work._

 

My thinking is it's going to cost $500 to run a straight shot from the circuit panel to my listening area. $70 is the cost for one noise harvester but the strong suggestion is that you need multiple units to really make a difference. Instead of buying 5 noise harvesters for $350 (plus tax and shipping) you'd be better off spending $500 for the "home run".

 If one noise harvester for $70 is going to make a discernable difference then it's probably worth it. I'm just not convinced and would rather spend that money on music or something I know I can hear.

 I think your brother-in-law may have to rethink his rates considering the state of the housing market in Las Vegas, but I agree, hiring an electrician can be expensive. 

 Then again surgery costs a lot more than band-aids, too. Which is more effective?


----------



## audiod

What a lot of people don’t realize is that there is usually more noise generated by a digital source audio outputs (such as a CD player) than there is noise on the AC line. This noise is going directly into the inputs of your amp or preamp. A good power supply can filter most of the noise on the AC line but HF noise going into a audio input is hard to filter without hurting the audio signal.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys Quick question, How many watts would a t1w draw when running maxed out. reason i'm asking is i'm about to order a 500va (500w) step down transformer 240v on the wal to 100v step down and dont want one that is too weak. Maybe this is overkill?_

 

What's a good transformer to get for the Stax if I want to step down from 240v to 100v (I'm getting a Japan 717, but it's 100v)? Just wondering if SQ will be compromised since it's such a revealing system.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's a good transformer to get for the Stax if I want to step down from 240v to 100v (I'm getting a Japan 717, but it's 100v)? Just wondering if SQ will be compromised since it's such a revealing system._

 

The 717 has internal jumpers (they look like solid metal fuses) for changing voltage. The jumpers are labeled 1 thru 6. They are located between the power transformer and back panel. PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF file with instructions.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 717 has internal jumpers (they look like solid metal fuses) for changing voltage. The jumpers are labeled 1 thru 6. They are located between the power transformer and back panel. PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF file with instructions._

 

Thanks audiod, ygpm


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My precious... My precious..._

 

And so another regular poster hibernates to the Stax Cave...


----------



## kg21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What a lot of people don’t realize is that there is usually more noise generated by a digital source audio outputs (such as a CD player) than there is noise on the AC line. This noise is going directly into the inputs of your amp or preamp. A good power supply can filter most of the noise on the AC line but HF noise going into a audio input is hard to filter without hurting the audio signal._

 

Good point I bet computers are even worse than cd players too. What else can you do though besides power cables which are suspect in terms of improvement?


----------



## mark_h

Sorry to interupt but I just have to say,

 Man, I love my O2's, I listen to them daily and they always put a huge smile on my face! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am listening to the Sophtware Slump as I type this, it is a wonderfully engineered album and the Stax just make it shine!

 Would love to hear the KGBH or SS or 717 Balanced etc.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to interupt but I just have to say,

 Man, I love my O2's, I listen to them daily and they always put a huge smile on my face! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am listening to the Sophtware Slump as I type this, it is a wonderfully engineered album and the Stax just make it shine!

 Would love to hear the KGBH or SS or 717 Balanced etc._

 


 Just curious, which O2?


----------



## mark_h

/\ O2 Mk2


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_/\ O2 Mk2_

 


 Nice to hear that; I don't think the mk2 gets enough love. I had thought about selling mine, but now I have a KGSS DX that's on the mend, and once it heals, I plan to try the mk2 with it. I just have a feeling it will reveal a new side of the mk2.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 Man, I love my O2's, I listen to them daily and they always put a huge smile on my face! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ._

 

Lucky you ! 

 I have not been able to get a big smile yet...,
 a twinkle maybe from my 717 XLR driven O2 MK1
 and rather sad from my other estats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 except maybe from my Omicron (SR-003).

 Oh well, maybe its another one of those low mood days.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Me too. This is the reason why I don't usually post about cables, power conditioning or other associated gear.

 FWIW, I use an Isotek Sigmas power conditioner, an Isotek wall-wart type noise reducer, an Acoustic Revive power strip and silver power cables with either Oyaide or Furutech plugs._

 


 Tweaks, including power cords and IC's, can make or break a good system and yet there is this solid core of people who don't want to be told about them. Sure there's not much good evidence about their effectiveness and some things are oversold, but so is everything in this hobby. 

 I just wish you could get a good discussion of these issues in the "tweaks..." section without a flamewar breaking out. I don't want someone who hasn't tried a tweak telling me that it doesn't work any more than I want someone telling me about a headphone, amp or whatever and who hasn't actually heard it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lucky you ! 

 I have not been able to get a big smile yet...,
 a twinkle maybe from my 717 XLR driven O2 MK1
 and rather sad from my other estats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 except maybe from my Omicron (SR-003).

 Oh well, maybe its another one of those low mood days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you ever get a Sigma pro?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Snake Oil I know. Have bought some myself.

 That said, Im always amazed that people can be so certain of their conclusions about equipment --or about tweaks, either positively or negatively. 

 Synergy. 

 MAYBE if I try a tweak and think it's worth the money, that's because it works well with my equipment and cables and mains and other tweaks. 
 MAYBE the sound IS improved. MAYBE Im willling to risk a little cash and
 dont feel the need to justify it to myself. 

 Conversely, MAYBE if I try a tweak and hear no improvement, that's because it doesnt work well in my SYSTEM, and the sound is NOT improved. MAYBE
 I'd like to return it or try it in some other system.

 It always helps me if, when talking about improvements in sound, one gives as much detail as possible.

 Beyond a certain point, claiming exactitude in what we hear, and what absolutely constitutes better sound is truely snake oil, and probably even
 BFD, if I knew what it meant._

 


 Wikipedia lists some of the meanings of BFD


BFD - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am always amazed that tweaking brings out such hostility. 

 Actually I did a Google before ordering the first one and showed a general acceptance of small but important benefits. $70.00 isn't much to invest to try something out for yourself and shops like Audio Advisior will (and probably have to) allow a return within 30 days.

 I get really tired of people talking about snake-oil and placebo effects. BFD! 
 Maybe when you listen to a $2K Omega or any other item of equipment its all Placebo too. There's been no psychophysical test to determine that a majority of listeners think it is better than anything else on the market. 

 Such science as there is in audio is in the engineering side and the 
 pschophysics of what makes good audio are almost non-existent. As an old prof once told me "there's a lot we don't know before we don't know that!"

 So it's back to golden ears and personal experimentation. As regards reviews, some listeners have tin ears and mid-fi equipment. I want to see reviews made by people who appear to be seriously into this hobby and have invested time and money to back up that interest. And then I do my own listening test. You should do the same before you attack something._

 

I dont see how i was being hostile? I was just answering him. There are a few forums with VERY lengthy threads on the product, again the general consensus is that its a bogus product. Someone even took it apart and found it was made up of about $10 worth of parts. A placebo can be just as good as the real thing, so if you hear a difference, regardless of if the product is or isnt doing anything, and you're happy with the money you spent on it then what do you care? No need to get all defensive.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What does Snake Oil mean?_

 

Snake oil is a term for a product that is sold under the pretense that it has a desired effect when infact it does absolutely nothing. Its derived from a literal product. Im sure you've seen the cliche westerns where the vender is offering a bottle of magical liquid that will cure what ever ails you, well there you go.


----------



## kintsaki

I would like to let "Skin" and "edstrelow" know that

 my son had his car hood open and smash the windshield while driving on the high way at 4:30 in the morning. He called me for help as I was about to respond to your explanations and questions. I left in a hurry and my green "being on line" indicator was left on.
 When I am over the shock I will answer your questions. He is fine, He will only need a new hood and windshield.

 Briefly I got a Sigma Normal not a PRO.

 And while I am very skeptical of "tweaks" I did confirm most of the ones given by Headfiers through double blind tests performed on myself and a friend. I even recently experienced intermittent noise from my laptop especially through the estats that would be cut off the moment I would disconnect the charger and was not audible through any of my dynamic phones. 

 So "skin", there is no substitute for long term experience and when going into estats everything is very important and an estat system is a hell of a difficult system to run and keep it running, and not a good idea without a source of the same caliper. And this is why I don't find myself smiling from happiness that often when listening to the O2 which actually is the best estat in production phone.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 my son had his car hood open and smash the windshield while driving on the high way at 4:30 in the morning. He called me for help_

 

Off topic, but ... DAMN DUDE!

 I can't tell you how many times, after an oil change, that I thought that might happen ...

 Hope it worked out alright.


----------



## kg21

On the issue of "tweaks" I think it's best to keep an open mind, between the people who are so sure that a tweak makes a huge difference and the people who say all tweaks are bs the answer has to lie in the middle ground.


----------



## ericj

Well, with regard to tweaks, you also have to be aware of the psychology of purchase and ownership. 

 There's an experiment that's been repeated countless times by now where you buy several of the same exact common household item - say, a wall clock. You have slick pretty professional packaging made up for half of them, and put the other half in plain brown boxes. 

 You make up marketing glurge. Say wonderful things about the ones in the pretty boxes. The ones in the brown box are just clocks. All of these things are true, you just don't say them about the one in the brown box. 

 You price the ones in the pretty box substantially higher. Even 2x or 3x as much. 

 It turns out that people prefer the more expensive product. 

 Not only that, the people who saw both boxes and bought the one in the pretty box are, on average, substantially more pleased with their purchase than the people who saw both boxes and got the one in the brown box. 

 Even if you tell them after the fact that both boxes contained the same product. 

 The only more disturbing study I've heard of was a recent one where they found some new fashions of women's clothing, hired two sets of models - one set unnaturally thin, one set of average build - and had the same photographer shoot two catalogs that were basically the same thing, just one of them with super-skinny girls and the other with normal girls. 

 And then they showed one or the other catalog to individual college-age girls in a private setting (no peer pressure) and then asked them standard boilerplate questions about the fashions in the catalog and whether they might be interested in buying some of those clothes. 

 And then as a thank-you gift. they were each offered a package of oreo cookies. 

 The girls who saw the catalog featuring normal-sized girls were less impressed with the fashions, didn't want to buy the clothes, and overwhelmingly accepted the pack of cookies. 

 The girls who saw the catalog featuring the skinny girls were more impressed with the fashions, largely said they might be interested in buying the clothes, and overwhelmingly turned down the pack of cookies. 

 So the skinny models made a better impression of the product, and made the potential customers feel less secure in their own self-image.

 That's messed up right there. 

 We are seriously easily confused beasts.


----------



## The Monkey

I love studies like those.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ . 
 It turns out that people prefer the more expensive product. 

 Not only that, the people who saw both boxes and bought the one in the pretty box are, on average, substantially more pleased with their purchase than the people who saw both boxes and got the one in the brown box. 

 Even if you tell them after the fact that both boxes contained the same product. 

 We are seriously easily confused beasts._

 

Hmmm. Somehow this reminds me of my deciding to buy the 404s even tho the consensus is that they are the 303s in a more expensive package.


----------



## spritzer

It's the basic human condition that two pieces of the same price must be equally good. That's why RSA and Rudistor manage to sell anything at all with far more advanced products available from their competitors, even at a lower price. 

 These tweaks do work but have to be addressed on a case by case basis due to other factors. Those that believe the AC in the wall is nothing but pure 117/230vAC haven't got a clue about what's really going on. Our homes are filled with cheap switching supplies that are dumping noise back onto the power lines (DC voltage) plus the electrical system in some places is so overloaded that the voltage sags much more then it should. Now some components are immune to any of this due to superior PSU design but they are rare since a good PSU costs a lot to build. 

 Then we have the idiots that claim you don't need an amp or that they all sound the same without having a clue about all the variables at play and how different things affect the transducers. Where is a good facepalm when you need it...

 Btw. To those that are simply here to troll and not discuss Stax. This thread is a sole refuge in the from the likes of you and I will ask the mods to delete your thread crapping. This is a discussion about Stax and if Ed had a good experience with some tweaks, good for him.


----------



## SoliloCey

If anyone gives a damn, or has 20 minutes times to waste, you can read me babble on about the impressions of my new Stax SR-303 (Classic). 

Clicky


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anyone gives a damn, or has 20 minutes times to waste, you can read me babble on about the impressions of my new Stax SR-303 (Classic). 

Clicky_

 

As much as I'd like to, I don't have 20 minutes right now.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Would love to read a brief summary here, though.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As much as I'd like to, I don't have 20 minutes right now.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would love to read a brief summary here, though._

 

I put an executive summary at the very top for people who couldn't be arsed.


----------



## progo

Nice stuff you've got there. I'll read it carefully.
 I'd personally buy an SR-404 and SRM-717 as my next Stax rig.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice stuff you've got there. I'll read it carefully.
 I'd personally buy an SR-404 and SRM-717 as my next Stax rig._

 

Yeah, the 404's are suppose to be better, cables the only diff. I got all mine second hand though.

 So thanks John, and Webbie!


----------



## indikator

hi SoliloCey, your glowing review of the combo surely boosts my expectation up high, been waiting for mine for a quite while, I hope it will able to pull me out of this place


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice stuff you've got there. I'll read it carefully.
 I'd personally buy an SR-404 and SRM-717 as my next Stax rig._

 

I always thought the T1 was the better match for lambdas?


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought the T1 was the better match for lambdas?_

 

And I thought the SRM-717 is good for anything except for O2. Well, it doesn't have "Normal" bias out, which might be a minor problem.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anyone gives a damn, or has 20 minutes times to waste, you can read me babble on about the impressions of my new Stax SR-303 (Classic). 

Clicky_

 

Sure have... *heading over*

 Congratulations!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm. Somehow this reminds me of my deciding to buy the 404s even tho the consensus is that they are the 303s in a more expensive package._

 

It's ok though, because on average you'd be more satisfied with having spent more money.


----------



## Sherwood

And, of course, getting more money in return. I suspect the resale percentage is higher on the 404 than the 303.


----------



## ericj

I'm abberant, on the other hand, and have an overactive sense of buyer's remorse. 

 I still feel selfconscious about having paid only a little below the going rate for my lambda. And $90 for an A/250 back in december. Even though it's still my daily headphone at work. 

 I think i may have snagged the cheapest ESP-950 ever, though, so i may be able to redeem myself.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought the T1 was the better match for lambdas?_

 

The 007t might be the best for Lambdas but the 717 is ready for the Omega 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I use the Lambda Nova Signature with T1S and it sounds great but I wouldn't mind more power


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi SoliloCey, your glowing review of the combo surely boosts my expectation up high, been waiting for mine for a quite while, I hope it will able to pull me out of this place
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I hope your experience is similar, I don't like hyping things up, but that's how i felt about them. All the best!


----------



## dickbianchi

Well, I just cancelled my order for the 404s at AudioAffair in UK. Good price but I ordered them on the 29th of January and they still wont ship (I was told) for at least another week.

 Maybe this time I WILL buy the 303s.

 My god, these forums are addictive. The computer seems to be the first thing I get to when I get home. I just observed that I have 100 posts and it seems like not that long ago I had about 12. Now I am telling myself to get a life, advice heretofore reserved for others. 

 But this is so much easier, this people needs a new opiate, and...well...it is life, sort of....virtually....

 Should I be worried?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the basic human condition that two pieces of the same price must be equally good. That's why RSA and Rudistor manage to sell anything at all with far more advanced products available from their competitors, even at a lower price. 

 These tweaks do work but have to be addressed on a case by case basis due to other factors. Those that believe the AC in the wall is nothing but pure 117/230vAC haven't got a clue about what's really going on. Our homes are filled with cheap switching supplies that are dumping noise back onto the power lines (DC voltage) plus the electrical system in some places is so overloaded that the voltage sags much more then it should. Now some components are immune to any of this due to superior PSU design but they are rare since a good PSU costs a lot to build. 

 Then we have the idiots that claim you don't need an amp or that they all sound the same without having a clue about all the variables at play and how different things affect the transducers. Where is a good facepalm when you need it...

 Btw. To those that are simply here to troll and not discuss Stax. This thread is a sole refuge in the from the likes of you and I will ask the mods to delete your thread crapping. This is a discussion about Stax and if Ed had a good experience with some tweaks, good for him._

 

I agree with your post 100%, I just want to know how the Noise Harvester sucks noise away from the system without being directly in the chain of "power to amp". I suppose I'll have to look elsewhere for the answers.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I just cancelled my order for the 404s at AudioAffair in UK. Good price but I ordered them on the 29th of January and they still wont ship (I was told) for at least another week.

 Maybe this time I WILL buy the 303s.

 My god, these forums are addictive. The computer seems to be the first thing I get to when I get home. I just observed that I have 100 posts and it seems like not that long ago I had about 12. Now I am telling myself to get a life, advice heretofore reserved for others. 

 But this is so much easier, this people needs a new opiate, and...well...it is life, sort of....virtually....

 Should I be worried?_

 

100 posts in a year is not that much compared to a lot of people here.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with your post 100%, I just want to know how the Noise Harvester sucks noise away from the system without being directly in the chain of "power to amp". I suppose I'll have to look elsewhere for the answers._

 

Spritzer did answer your question.(2nd paragraph,3rd sentence) The noise harvester is "in the chain" if plugged in virtually anywhere in the home for the most part.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_100 posts in a year is not that much compared to a lot of people here._

 

** hides **


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_** hides **_

 

I was thinking about myself with 2 posts per day


----------



## randerson3024

What is the general experience of the group using the SRD-7 or SRD-7 MK2 compared to the amps? I need to thin out my collection on the ship and am thinking of using an SRD-7 to plug into the Spectral setup to be able to use both the Omega originals and AKG K1000's with my Linn Unidisk 1.1 as a source as well as an Akurate DS. For those of you who know me, I have way too many CD's and way too much very valuable equipment crammed into my little stateroom on the boat. I need to get this stuff home before the end of the year even though it means sacrificing a little quality. Bottom line, I'd rather have my digital front end, BHSE, ARC Ref gear, and big Maggies at home. Thoughts are welcome.

 Thanks,

 Bob


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure have... *heading over*

 Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 


 X2. Well written, SoliloCey. Glad you're enjoying them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *randerson3024* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the general experience of the group using the SRD-7 or SRD-7 MK2 compared to the amps? Thanks,

 Bob_

 

Bob, I think your level of equipment is always going to be a good step above mine. However, for what its worth I think the SRD energisers are an excellent way to approach your situation.

 For instance, when I decide to use my SR-007s, too often I'll prefer running the SRD-7Pro from the Naim speaker amp (32.5 Pre-amp/250 Power amp) set up than tube roll my GES from the tubes I use with my HE60s.

 I find an excellent amp feeding the SRD-7Pro or SRD-7SB (to feed my Pro bias and Normal bias ESPs respectively) to be a more than entrancing/engaging/enjoyable setup.

 However, due to the fine level of SQ you get from your excellent stock of equipment YMMV. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I could probably be happy with SRD-7 Mk2 (or my Pro) with a nice speaker amp, if I didn't have my Woo. I actually keep the Woo GES/O2 Mk1 in the living room rig, and use the SRD-7 Pro or Mk2 for stats in my bedroom where I keep my balanced and dynamic rigs. The SRD-7 Mk2 SB has a quieter background than the Pro which uses 110v, so I guess I need a Noise Harvester to see if that helps. I am using a 12 watt Nuforce Icon for now, with plans to upgrade to a nice tube speaker amp someday, and that is enough power to drive the O2 Mk1/Mk2, Jade, HE60 or ESP950.


----------



## webbie64

Oh, for an SRD-7 Mk2 SB... (sigh)






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could probably be happy with SRD-7 Mk2 (or my Pro) with a nice speaker amp, if I didn't have my Woo. I actually keep the Woo GES/O2 Mk1 in the living room rig, and use the SRD-7 Pro or Mk2 for stats in my bedroom where I keep my balanced and dynamic rigs. The SRD-7 Mk2 SB has a quieter background than the Pro which uses 110v, so I guess I need a Noise Harvester to see if that helps. I am using a 12 watt Nuforce Icon for now, with plans to upgrade to a nice tube speaker amp someday, and that is enough power to drive the O2 Mk1/Mk2, Jade, HE60 or ESP950._


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I love my O2's, I listen to them daily and they always put a huge smile on my face! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am listening to the Sophtware Slump as I type this, it is a wonderfully engineered album and the Stax just make it shine!

 Would love to hear the KGBH or SS or 717 Balanced etc._

 

*Hey, nice to hear your "lovin'"(please don't sue me Mcdonalds)the O2MK2.
 Did you also hear the MK1s?* 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lucky you ! 

 I have not been able to get a big smile yet...,
 a twinkle maybe from my 717 XLR driven O2 MK1
 and rather sad from my other estats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 except maybe from my Omicron (SR-003).

 Oh well, maybe its another one of those low mood days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to let "Skin" and "edstrelow" 
 when going into estats everything is very important and an estat system is a hell of a difficult system to run and keep it running, and not a good idea without a source of the same caliper. And this is why I don't find myself smiling from happiness that often when listening to the O2 which actually is the best estat in production phone._

 

*I'm having some of the same feelings with my 717/O2Mk1, first I decided to order the KGBHSE, but couldn't wait till Summer to find out the results, so I ordered a Zana Deux and 3 dynamic cans. I'm listening to a woodied CD3000 unamped and it's making me smile more. But doubt I'll part with O2/717 when it gets back from the tech, who said it's fine thank goodness
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. (in the smile index that's called an "O2 smile", I'm very proud of my ironic use
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
 But seriously, Prof. Brando, do you think I have to upgrade my 10yr old $1K-ish CD Player to a 2 or 3K$?*


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, for an SRD-7 Mk2 SB... (sigh)




_

 

It took me 6 months to locate my SRD-7 Pro, and over a year to locate my SRD-7 Mk2 SB. I'm certain I wont sell either one anytime soon...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm having some of the same feelings with my 717/O2Mk1, first I decided to order the KGBHSE, but couldn't wait and ordered a Zana Deux and 3 dynamic cans. [/B]_

 

That's a shame, the BHSE is a pretty special amp.

 The Zana is nice, but not the same.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It took me 6 months to locate my SRD-7 Pro, and over a year to locate my SRD-7 Mk2 SB. I'm certain I wont sell either one anytime soon..._

 

I agree with HeadphoneAddict the SRD7's especially the mk2 sb do have something special. I'm currently in talks with Sowter Transformers here in the uk about custom transformers with 5hz to 40hz full range and around 800volts rms I'm building a new SRD-XXX 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. The srd's are more dynamic than the lesser stax amps but loose a small amount of detail.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always thought the T1 was the better match for lambdas?_

 

IMO the 007t is even better for the Lambda series.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And I thought the SRM-717 is good for anything except for O2. Well, it doesn't have "Normal" bias out, which might be a minor problem._

 

IMO the 717 is the best available Stax amp for the O2.


----------



## SoliloCey

only been a few days of the staxs loving it so much, Im wondering if anyone want to part with their SR-001mk2


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO the 007t is even better for the Lambda series.



 IMO the 717 is the best available Stax amp for the O2._

 

apart from the T2 of course


----------



## tako_tsubo

"available" being the key word


----------



## SoliloCey

oi saw a tII for sale in the head-fi sect, whether its still for sale or not...


----------



## spritzer

SRM-T2 and SRM-xxxtII are not the same thing.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

@SoliloCey

 T2 and 007t II are not the same mate, if that's what you're saying.


----------



## SoliloCey

*hides under the rug, from the embarrassment*


----------



## billyearle

*I'm having some of the same feelings with my 717/O2Mk1, first I decided to order the KGBHSE, but couldn't wait till Summer to find out the results, so I ordered a Zana Deux and 3 dynamic cans. 
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by The Monkey /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
That's a shame, the BHSE is a pretty special amp.
 The Zana is nice, but not the same.

 

Oh no, Monkey, I still have the BHSE on order, I just couldn't wait till then to see if there's something else that I might enjoy more than the 717/O2 combo in the meantime. Actually, I was doing just fine with my waiting for the BHSE, until I heard about the HD800, then I just HAD to check it out, and find an amp for it, and now that I'm getting a dynamic HP amp again, why not try some more dynamic cans... (I actually first became aware of the HD800's existence through a joke of Spritzer's in this thread, blaming the HD800 for someone having a problem with their O2, see how much harm a simple joke can do? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) P.S. Someone should create a smiley-face with a wife beating a guy to death with his headphones, I'm sure it would get at least as much use as the DT880 smile.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"available" being the key word
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Every man and everything has it's price its a shame nobody here has one as i would love to hear first hand impressions from a headfier. But your right the Stax T2 may as well not exist.

 Something i wondered what do the stax engineers use when voicing or developing cans especially old man stax himself (i forget his name) btw afaik the company was bought by the workers a few years back .


----------



## SoliloCey

hey guys how good do the gamma's sound? i saw one for $80 was thinking about getting them, and modding them, they're surely easy to stick into another housing


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh no, Monkey, I still have the BHSE on order, I just couldn't wait till then to see if there's something else that I might enjoy more than the 717/O2 combo in the meantime. Actually, I was doing just fine with my waiting for the BHSE, until I heard about the HD800, then I just HAD to check it out, and find an amp for it, and now that I'm getting a dynamic HP amp again, why not try some more dynamic cans..._

 

heh, well done. Nothing like an accelerated journey down the rabbit hole. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The nice thing is that you will not be wanting for a new amp anytime soon. Source craziness is the next progression of the sickness.


----------



## indikator

Well I finally gotten my Lambda Pro + SRM1/Mk2 this afternoon,
 picture can lie of course, never thought the lambda would be so flimsy, like a toy plastic bone......but nevertheless the condition is amazing considering its age thanks to other previous owners, also comfort is really helped by the headband design

 and then for the sound, lets start from the good first, 
 - this can sounds really detail perhaps thanks to its speed, many hidden notes are now become obvious, 
 - the soundstage which is kinda big (I have no other reference here) but main vocal is to centered in the head, 
 - high is also good, it brings 'presence' to the music well or perhaps I should call it convincing

 now lets continue with its bad
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 - is it just me or the first impression to hear this can is 'where is the mid'? I guess lambda pro is not known for the mid, combine that with its rather good soundstage, it sound kinda cavernous which really confuse my brain, how can it be like this when it also very open, needs brain burn in here........
 - the bass the low area, can't say it doesn't exist but it just exist only without anything good which can make you smile, it is deep but not amazingly deep, and it does not slam or having enough impact, guitar bass also does not shine because covered a lot by its high, which is brings us too
 - it is too bright at least for my taste, I'm a sennheiser guy

 alright that is my impression, sorry if it is not really good or clear as I'm only writing points which understood and obvious to me


 next may I ask some question?
 - will O2 
 +sounds darker or warmer than this? having delicious mid?
 +have main vocal several steps forward?
 +curing all my bad things, having all the good ones also?
 - got a faint hum at low region here, is it ground loop? as my room wall socket is not grounded, should I ground the IEC ground or also that silver ground screw on the back off the driver unit?

 thanks for reading, have a good day, as I have a good one


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys how good do the gamma's sound? i saw one for $80 was thinking about getting them, and modding them, they're surely easy to stick into another housing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have normal bias Gammas and love them. If they're pros, most people buy them to put into SR-X housing. The last couple I've seen on eBay have gone for over $200.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- will O2 
 +sounds darker or warmer than this? having delicious mid?
 +have main vocal several steps forward?
 +curing all my bad things, having all the good ones also?_

 

The O2 is in another league. It's better in every aspect. All the problems you have with the Lambda Pro's are gone. You will need a better amp. Like a SRM-717. The SRM-2 mk2 pro will drive them in a pinch.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
IMO the 717 is the best available Stax amp for the O2.

 

apart from the T2 of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"available" being the key word
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So true!
 The SRM-T2 is said to be a nice match for the O2, but its more or less non-existing on the used market. Unless you bid high $$$$$ to one of its owners.

 A couple pictures for those who don't know what it looks like:


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey guys how good do the gamma's sound? i saw one for $80 was thinking about getting them, and modding them, they're surely easy to stick into another housing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have normal bias Gammas and love them. If they're pros, most people buy them to put into SR-X housing. The last couple I've seen on eBay have gone for over $200._

 

Or, this is what you do with your Gamma Pro


----------



## mark_h

/\ Meh...Would look better in black! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Sorry delayed post I meant the T2 in the above, above post, The headphones above are really nice.


----------



## Sherwood

I'll have to account for divergent tastes, here. I cannot think of a headphone I have ever seen that is more beautiful than that one.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Just a thought here, but when I had stax I would occasionally get a shock. 

 I pulled my hair back, so I doubt that was the issue - it happened with every pair of electrostatics I have tried. 

 Just wondering how common that is.


----------



## jvlgato

HeadphoneAddict;5417945 said:
			
		

> Or, this is what you do with your Gamma Pro
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## jvlgato

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finally gotten my Lambda Pro + SRM1/Mk2 this afternoon,
 picture can lie of course, never thought the lambda would be so flimsy, like a toy plastic bone......but nevertheless the condition is amazing considering its age thanks to other previous owners, also comfort is really helped by the headband design

 and then for the sound, lets start from the good first, 
 - this can sounds really detail perhaps thanks to its speed, many hidden notes are now become obvious, 
 - the soundstage which is kinda big (I have no other reference here) but main vocal is to centered in the head, 
 - high is also good, it brings 'presence' to the music well or perhaps I should call it convincing

 now lets continue with its bad
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 - is it just me or the first impression to hear this can is 'where is the mid'? I guess lambda pro is not known for the mid, combine that with its rather good soundstage, it sound kinda cavernous which really confuse my brain, how can it be like this when it also very open, needs brain burn in here........
 - the bass the low area, can't say it doesn't exist but it just exist only without anything good which can make you smile, it is deep but not amazingly deep, and it does not slam or having enough impact, guitar bass also does not shine because covered a lot by its high, which is brings us too
 - it is too bright at least for my taste, I'm a sennheiser guy

 alright that is my impression, sorry if it is not really good or clear as I'm only writing points which understood and obvious to me


 next may I ask some question?
 - will O2 
 +sounds darker or warmer than this? having delicious mid?
 +have main vocal several steps forward?
 +curing all my bad things, having all the good ones also?
 - got a faint hum at low region here, is it ground loop? as my room wall socket is not grounded, should I ground the IEC ground or also that silver ground screw on the back off the driver unit?

 thanks for reading, have a good day, as I have a good one
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have the exact same Stax set up. I put the source signal through my tubed pre-amp first, before letting it go to the Stax amp. This really softens the brightness and gives it some nice warmth. 

 Still light on the bass, though. Those little films just can't move much air, I think. On Skylab's subwoofer post, someone talked about using his subwoofer for his Stax system. I asked how he did this, but haven't seen his response yet. I tend to listen to Stax mostly for classical.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jvlgato* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Or, this is what you do with your Gamma Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Wow! That is just beautiful! How do you have that done?

 

_

 

You have to have special connections to the Stax Mafia (that doesn't exist).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Wow Headphone Addict, those are beautiful!!


----------



## xantus

@jvlgato and indikator re:the lambda/srm1-mk2 rig

 the bass sound is presented to you in a way that you probably haven't heard before.
 you say the film can not move much air but I believe this is quite contrary. the film can move more air more precicely than dynamic phones. 

 my feeling on the bass from lambdas is that is more pure than dynamic/speaker bass that you have heard before.
 definitely could use some 'brain burn in' if you feel it is lacking.
 much of the giant thundering bass you hear from speakers or some dynamic headphones is frequencies piling up or distortions from the drivers/housing. some people quite like how these pileups and distortions sound and that is fine, it's all up to taste.
 stax will simply show you a different taste of the frequencies.

 also what sort of recordings are you listening to? stax will show you what is on the record quite meticulously....sometimes that is not too pleasant.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or, this is what you do with your Gamma Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








_

 



			
				jvlgato;5417981 said:
			
		

> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## indikator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 is in another league. It's better in every aspect. All the problems you have with the Lambda Pro's are gone. You will need a better amp. Like a SRM-717. The SRM-2 mk2 pro will drive them in a pinch._

 

that is very good to hear, as I'm going to stax because reading here that O2 is dark

 @jvlgato & xantus
 about the bass, with more experience last night, I found out that it is not the lambda pro ain't capable of doing satisfactory bass, it indeed sing well in a bass heavy good recording, so my guess is the FR which matter, it bass response is not as dominant as the the other region, or maybe it is just like xantus said that the bass is more faithful


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finally gotten my Lambda Pro + SRM1/Mk2 this afternoon,

 and then for the sound, lets start from the good first, 
 - this can sounds really detail perhaps thanks to its speed, many hidden notes are now become obvious, 
 - the soundstage which is kinda big (I have no other reference here) but main vocal is to centered in the head, 
 - high is also good, it brings 'presence' to the music well or perhaps I should call it convincing

 now lets continue with its bad
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 - is it just me or the first impression to hear this can is 'where is the mid'? I guess lambda pro is not known for the mid, combine that with its rather good soundstage, it sound kinda cavernous which really confuse my brain, how can it be like this when it also very open, needs brain burn in here........
 - the bass the low area, can't say it doesn't exist but it just exist only without anything good which can make you smile, it is deep but not amazingly deep, and it does not slam or having enough impact, guitar bass also does not shine because covered a lot by its high, which is brings us too
 - it is too bright at least for my taste, I'm a sennheiser guy

 :_

 


 I have 2 other Lambdas, the 404 and Nova and don't find a lack midrange, rather a prominence of midrange. If I am not msitaken, the Lambda pro, which was the original High bias Lambda, uses damping which may result in this mid range loss.

 I think some people have tried taking the damping off to get better sound.

 I am surprised the SRM1Mk2 doesn't give good bass with these phones. Some tweaking can help most stats. I would recommend an upgraded power cord. I had very good results with this amp with a Signal Cable Magic which is a very thick cable and costs $59.00 for a 3 foot length. A better cord will give some oomph to the sound which nearly always means better bass.

 My tweak de jour is the PS Audio noise harvester, which is $70.00 per unit. 1 or 2 in a system help n getting rid of graininess and harshness and even seem to allow the bass to shine through better.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer did answer your question.(2nd paragraph,3rd sentence) The noise harvester is "in the chain" if plugged in virtually anywhere in the home for the most part._

 

Certainly that is counter-intuitive but as a happy Harvester myself I assume that is correct. I guess if things were running on DC as Edison originally envisaged there would be a directionality to the "chain."


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[I remember seeing pictures of woodied staxes on the archives page of headphile. Apparantly, they stopped offering the stax-woodening. I really like the wood sound on dynamics. Has anyone heard wooded staxes here, ESPECIALLY OMEGA 2? Has anyone tried this? If done right somehow, closed wooded Omegas with a wide soundstage is a dream-phone of mine._

 

A woody SR-007 would be a bad idea as the reason why the SR-007 is so good is the rigid aluminum chassis. Making them closed brings on a whole other set problems.


----------



## smeggy

Yeah, I wouldn't touch that with a bargepole...


----------



## Oublie

a woodied stax 4070 might work.


----------



## Duggeh

You mean, just change the wood?


----------



## Oublie

well you could go with something a bit nicer than the standard 4070 look or use some fablon


----------



## SoliloCey

they should have made some air hole thingies on the side of thoose gammas to keep the sound similar, i bet that gamma is more bassy now for it.


----------



## Elephas

The outer housing material of the 4070 seems to be plastic. I don't think it is wood inside. Were there ever any Stax headphones made with wood?

 That Smegma Pro looks ready to go up against the wood Jade and metal but similar-shaped SR-Omega. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a Headphile-modified Lambda Pro with a wood housing. It's OK, but I don't think that highly of it. I prefer the Airbow SR-SC1 over it.


----------



## spritzer

I think the 4070 shell is wood or perhaps the old version was wood and they switched to resin on the new one. There was something about it back in 2002 when they were released but I never opened up my set to check it out. 

 If the Smegma is anything like the SR-X Mk3 Pro's which I built then the Jade hasn't got a chance.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they should have made some air hole thingies on the side of thoose gammas to keep the sound similar, i bet that gamma is more bassy now for it._

 

Who is "they"?


----------



## Oublie

on the subject of custom stax etc. Has anyone every tried alternative pads on an sr40 electret or can you suggest possible available pads that might fit? I like mine but they hurt my ears after a while so long sessions are impossible. I link the idea of a bigger more comfortable pad on them similar to headphone addicts.


----------



## jvlgato

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xantus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@jvlgato and indikator re:the lambda/srm1-mk2 rig

 the bass sound is presented to you in a way that you probably haven't heard before.

 you say the film can not move much air but I believe this is quite contrary. the film can move more air more precicely than dynamic phones. 

 my feeling on the bass from lambdas is that is more pure than dynamic/speaker bass that you have heard before.
 definitely could use some 'brain burn in' if you feel it is lacking.
 much of the giant thundering bass you hear from speakers or some dynamic headphones is frequencies piling up or distortions from the drivers/housing. some people quite like how these pileups and distortions sound and that is fine, it's all up to taste.
 stax will simply show you a different taste of the frequencies.

 also what sort of recordings are you listening to? stax will show you what is on the record quite meticulously....sometimes that is not too pleasant._

 

I'm not a huge bass fan at all, so have no desire for giant thundering bass. But to my ear, planars generally sound a bit weaker in bass but are way stronger in imaging, soundstage, attack compared to dynamics. I quite like the Stax sound and have loved ribbon speakers for many years!

 However, I thought that from a purely technical standpoint, planars can react more quickly because of being thin, low mass diaphragms, but cannot displace as much air because they are more fragile and more tightly attached. Dynamic drivers have more mass and a more compliant attachment and therefore can displace more air, which is what bass requires, but then cannot react as quickly. Certainly, good designers make accommodations to minimize technical limitations, but those are the inherent strengths and weakness of dynamic vs planar, aren't they? That is why full range planar speakers have to be made 7 feet tall, isn't it?

 There's lots of people here with a ton more technical knowledge than I have; I'd love to hear from them!


----------



## -=Germania=-

This is why we need more items like the k340 - only better implemented. 

 Maybe an extended Lambda Frame (outward) with an oblong orthodynamic driver in the side portion. Since Stax amplification is inherently balanced, it would be nice if there could be some black magic with transformers with some additional box so that you could still use Stax amps and loose the quality like you do with those tiny transformers if you did it internally. 

 Or John, you could get one of those "Butt Kickers" - doesn't really produce audio, but it is somewhat satisfying when listening to headphones. 

 Random thoughts.


----------



## Duggeh

You want a better 2 driver headphone than the K340? It's called the TakeT H2.


----------



## kintsaki

Compromises... Compromises...

 The O2 may be one of the best phones and with the best bass but it has its problems and is a far cry from real live music.

 For one the etch (from the planar nature?).

 Bass is accurate but anemic.
 Body is lacking and
 instruments are Micky mouse midjets.

 The polite highs still overpower the lacking lows on classical music. 
 And on non classical concerts (where the speakers being used are dynamic) the presentation is just lifeless.

 There is plenty of room for research and improvement on headphones and no amp in the world is going to ever fix the problems of estat speakers or phones.

 Just my opinion for whatever is worth.


----------



## jvlgato

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Or John, you could get one of those "Butt Kickers" - doesn't really produce audio, but it is somewhat satisfying when listening to headphones. 
_

 

Stacey,

 Thanks for the Butt Kicker idea - LOL! I'm good with the compromises involved and really don't need bass on my butt! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But that really makes my day!

 I'm just sayin' - isn't it generally accepted that as awesome as Stax are for what they do so well, planars have technical limitations with regard to the amount of air they can move ... so bass is typically not a strong point for them. That was my understanding ... ?

 But really thanks for the k340 - I was unaware of these, but they sound like my beloved broken Apogee Centaurs, a hybrid planar/dynamic!


----------



## -=Germania=-

Make sure that you have a really strong amp for them. Notoriously hard to drive.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compromises... Compromises...

 The O2 may be one of the best phones and with the best bass but it has its problems and is a far cry from real live music.

 For one the etch (from the planar nature?).

 Bass is accurate but anemic.
 Body is lacking and
 instruments are Micky mouse midjets.

 The polite highs still overpower the lacking lows on classical music. 
 And on non classical concerts (where the speakers being used are dynamic) the presentation is just lifeless.

 There is plenty of room for research and improvement on headphones *and no amp in the world is going to ever fix the problems of estat speakers or phones. *Just my opinion for whatever is worth._

 

*I basically am feeling the same way, but cannot bring myself to use such strong language about the O2s
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, and I still need some time to "mind burn-in" with them. So Kintsaki, have you heard em with the Blue Hawaii? 
 Unfortunately, my 2 new tweaks (Synergistic Research alpha sterling cables and a pair of noise harvesters) showed up while the O2s are away, so it'll be harder to evaluate them since I already installed the cables and don't feel like re-re-cabling my system. I can easily unplug the harvesters to compare
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 
 I dug out my old Lamdas, and sorry this is so horribly unscientific, but for now, with the new cables AND the harvesters, my old Lamdas are sounding much smoother and a little less bright, definitely improved. (I gave them a listen before the cables & noise harvesters showed, and they sounded really grainy, almost pixilized, and thin, after having the Omegas) I can only hope to have such noticeable improvements when the O2/717 gets back. I don't even feel up to listening to phones right now, so I'll try testing some more later. 
 I also wanted to say beatiful phones to HP Addict! How do you like them?*


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compromises... Compromises...

 The O2 may be one of the best phones and with the best bass but it has its problems and is a far cry from real live music.

 For one the etch (from the planar nature?).

 Bass is accurate but anemic.
 Body is lacking and
 instruments are Micky mouse midjets.

 The polite highs still overpower the lacking lows on classical music. 
 And on non classical concerts (where the speakers being used are dynamic) the presentation is just lifeless.

 There is plenty of room for research and improvement on headphones and no amp in the world is going to ever fix the problems of estat speakers or phones.

 Just my opinion for whatever is worth._

 

I spent some time today with O2 Mk1 and Mk2 (and all the other stats) with Woo GES and KGBH and I would not describe the O2 as you have. I was very pleased at how well my Woo GES stood up to the KGBH, with just a very slight decrease in bass output and very slightly softer attack, but otherwise just as enjoyable everywhere else. 

 Listening to all the stats at the Colorado head-fi meet have spoiled me for my dynamics, and I now know I am a stat person through and through. I just can't seem to get the enjoyment out of my Edition 9 as much anymore. However, there is an exception - my favorite dynamic coming out of the meet today is the K1000 which sounds great balanced from my Single Power as well as naamanf's Beta 22.

 I'm probably going to end up selling my orthodynamics as well - all my stats are just better to me, even with listening to several modded/dampened orthos.


----------



## Sherwood

I'll catch up with you in few weeks about Stax supremacy, Larry. Mr. Willett and Co. might have something to say about all that.


----------



## smeggy

Cool, the K1k is an exceptional can and well worth keeping along with the 'stats. I still like my orthos a lot though so I'll be keeping mine


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* 
_I'll catch up with you in few weeks about Stax supremacy, Larry. Mr. Willett and Co. might have something to say about all that._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, the K1k is an exceptional can and well worth keeping along with the 'stats. I still like my orthos a lot though so I'll be keeping mine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just have too many headphones to listen to them all, and I might even sell the O2 Mk1 which are very close to my ear-pad modded O2 Mk2 except for slightly more laid back mids and an extra 5-10Hz of low bass extension.


----------



## smeggy

me too, waaaay too many.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool, the K1k is an exceptional can and well worth keeping along with the 'stats. I still like my orthos a lot though so I'll be keeping mine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Indeed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Just look at which cans I have scaled down to... K1000 and SR-007BL


----------



## SoliloCey

what are orthodynamics?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compromises... Compromises...

 The O2 may be one of the best phones and with the best bass but it has its problems and is a far cry from real live music.

 For one the etch (from the planar nature?).

 Bass is accurate but anemic.
 Body is lacking and
 instruments are Micky mouse midjets.

 The polite highs still overpower the lacking lows on classical music. 
 And on non classical concerts (where the speakers being used are dynamic) the presentation is just lifeless.

 There is plenty of room for research and improvement on headphones and no amp in the world is going to ever fix the problems of estat speakers or phones.

 Just my opinion for whatever is worth._

 

There is something seriously wrong there as that's not a SR-007 you are describing. First of all, there is no etch... at all. That's the reason why the SR-007 is so hard to drive as Stax went to drastic lengths to air damp the diaphragm same as with the SR-001/3. 

 The lack of body and bass can be caused by two things, the phones are to tight on your head and you need to bend the metal arcs outwards to relieve the pressure. The bass will gain some flesh and the comfort is far better. The other reason are probably the earpads and they need to be replaced. It's also hard to tell if they were put on correctly in the first place and it will make a huge change to the sound. Those that have changed the springs on the Mk2's can attest to what a few millimeter's do. 

 I would also not dismiss the amp as a factor in the sound as they interact very differently with the transducers then the dynamic counterparts. 

 Then again you may simply prefer dynamics and for that we feel sorry for you...


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what are orthodynamics?_

 

It's a planar (flat-ish) sheet with the voice coil etched to the surface and that is sandwiched between two magnets or groups of magnets. Similar construction type to electrostatics in that they are driven over their entire surface unlike cone drivers.

 Only Fostex makes them these days, there are many out there from the 70s and 80s mainly from Fostex and Yamaha who also made them for others.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Just look at which cans I have scaled down to... K1000 and SR-007BL_

 

Kai, are you running your stats from the SRD or do you have a stat amp there hiding somewhere? I thought the SRD was supposed to be crappy at O2s.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening to all the stats at the Colorado head-fi meet have spoiled me for my dynamics, and I now know I am a stat person through and through. I just can't seem to get the enjoyment out of my Edition 9 as much anymore. However, there is an exception - my favorite dynamic coming out of the meet today is the K1000 which sounds great balanced from my Single Power as well as naamanf's Beta 22._

 

I had the chance today to try some L3000s, but made the mistake of spending 2 hours on my friend's 007/717 rig first, trying out various cables and DACs. I think you should sell your ED9s too. I'm sure they wont get any time at all after your HD-800s arrive.

 Now for my friend to get a GES or BH for his 007's -- we were discussing just that when I was on my way out.


----------



## kintsaki

[size=small]I need to apologize for my strong language from time to time. [/size]

 [size=small]Due to “bipolar mood disorder” and “bypass surgery” I am a semi-retired Electrical Engineer, now teaching Computer Science for non majors in a technical institute of technology. *“HeadphoneAddict”* may somehow relate to this. [/size]

 [size=small]I don’t know what I would have done without “Head-Fi”. “Head-Fiers” are music connoisseurs with a lot of dexterity and hardware acquired over many years of searching to enhance their listening experiences. In addition in most of their posts they do a fine job to describe the characteristics of the systems and to declare their significance as this relates to music genre, personal preferences and emotional mood.[/size]

 [size=small]There are so many things I know I don’t know that I am ready to reconsider any and all of my beliefs as I acquire more knowledge. Certainly the effect of wiring and noise suppressors that “*billyearle”* has experienced is one such thing. [/size]

 [size=small]I have only read half of *“Spritzer”*‘s posts so far, just started on the “Orthodynamics” thread, have no idea what a “*Smeggy” Pro *is, or Mr. Willett and Co. referenced by *“Sherwood”*, I amwondering how *“Duggeh”*’s HE Take2 sounds like, I bought an AKG K1K - *“Krmathis*”’s -favorite, and only listened to it for half an hour so far, waiting for the SRD7 PRO conversion, the list goes on and on…[/size]

 [size=small]Amps like the BHSE are very expensive, quite controversial and not public domain and as such they are the last in my list to explore. On the other hand Digital Signal Processing and enclosure configuration seem to be easier and cheaper for me to experiment. I have some post mastering recording experience and a friend who is a professional Electronics and Audio Engineer to help me explore. [/size]

 [size=small]The Omicron (SR-003) seems quite promising but I just discovered that it came with only one of the three plugs (and don’t know which) and the ergonomics of the headband and plugs may be the killers of this extraordinary set.[/size]

 [size=small]Has anybody thought of a horn enclosure for it?[/size]


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is something seriously wrong there as that's not a SR-007 you are describing. First of all, there is no etch... at all. That's the reason why the SR-007 is so hard to drive as Stax went to drastic lengths to air damp the diaphragm same as with the SR-001/3. 

 The lack of body and bass can be caused by two things, the phones are to tight on your head and you need to bend the metal arcs outwards to relieve the pressure. The bass will gain some flesh and the comfort is far better. The other reason are probably the earpads and they need to be replaced. It's also hard to tell if they were put on correctly in the first place and it will make a huge change to the sound. Those that have changed the springs on the Mk2's can attest to what a few millimeter's do. 

 I would also not dismiss the amp as a factor in the sound as they interact very differently with the transducers then the dynamic counterparts. 

 Then again you may simply prefer dynamics and for that we feel sorry for you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Once again you are too fast for me, my friend.

 I tried bending but I do not know if I did it right.
 I have not gotten to your earpad replacement post yet.
 I do find that the Omicron does not suffer as much.
 I am not dismissing the amp but after the DSP analysis I find the 717 a best buy and cannot afford a BHSE or attempt to build one. I do like the punch of the dynamics I have but after I went back and compared carefully I find that the O2 is a better trade off.

 So I will try more with the headband, replace the pads,
 experiment with tips on the Omicron and....
 wait patiently for a release of the BHSE schematic.


----------



## spritzer

You will have to wait a while on that BHSE schematic as I see no reason for Justin to share it. You could just as well build the older 2SA1968 CCS version like I'm doing. Here is what I did over the weekend...





 Those are premium PRP resistors and since then some of the transistors, tube sockets and the pots have been installed. 

 To get the feel for how the arc should be bent, try grabbing each earcup with the phones on your head playing music and changing the angle slightly of the earpieces. Try not to break the seal or cover the back of the headphone in any way as that will alter the results. I usually place each and behind the cups, with the middle finger on top of the phone where the Stax logo is and the thumb holding the bottom. Then I try to move them a bit by but be gentle as they can't take a lot of abuse.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then again you may simply prefer dynamics and for that we feel sorry for you... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

And not only a dynamic but a... Denon! Aaagh, the horror!

 Ah, I take it back. At least a Denon is not an Ultrasone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Kintsaki, I'm just joking. Sometimes I don't take things seriously (and get in trouble with the Stax Mafia). 

 If you don't like the O2Mk1 or O2Mk2, good for you! So what? So the best Stax flagship headphone (actually the O2Mk2 now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) isn't for you. Listen to whatever makes the music more enjoyable or sound better to you. If it's a lowly Denon, so be it. Let them laugh, I say, while we enjoy our music.

 Uh, oh, I may be in trouble with the Mafia again.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kai, are you running your stats from the SRD or do you have a stat amp there hiding somewhere? I thought the SRD was supposed to be crappy at O2s._

 

Yeah, I drive them using the SRD-7 Pro from either the Signature 30.2 or the β22. Since I have sold both my Stax energizers.
 Its far from ideal sound wise, but its so convenient to use the same amplifier for all my headphones. Some day I will get myself a higher quality transformer, either off the shelf or DIY.

 Until then this setup keeps me pleased!


----------



## SoliloCey

simple philosophy, enjoy the music! thats what it was therefore not for people to say this equipment sounds better then that.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I drive them using the SRD-7 Pro from either the Signature 30.2 or the β22. Since I have sold both my Stax energizers.
 Its far from ideal sound wise, but its so convenient to use the same amplifier for all my headphones. Some day I will get myself a higher quality transformer, either off the shelf or DIY.
 Until then this setup keeps me pleased! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was reminded yesterday of how well a simple setup could sound.
 I hooked up my sr-40/srd-4 up to test an amp. It sounds pretty 
 good for a 30+ year old lowly electret. I'm goining to try out a srd-7 pro.
 Found one on ebay, let's see if the price stays reasonable.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=small]I need to apologize for my strong language from time to time. [/size]

 [size=small]Due to “bipolar mood disorder” and “bypass surgery” I am a semi-retired Electrical Engineer, now teaching Computer Science for non majors in a technical institute of technology. *“HeadphoneAddict”* may somehow relate to this. [/size]

 [size=small]I don’t know what I would have done without “Head-Fi”. “Head-Fiers” are music connoisseurs with a lot of dexterity and hardware acquired over many years of searching to enhance their listening experiences. In addition in most of their posts they do a fine job to describe the characteristics of the systems and to declare their significance as this relates to music genre, personal preferences and emotional mood.[/size]

 [size=small]There are so many things I know I don’t know that I am ready to reconsider any and all of my beliefs as I acquire more knowledge. Certainly the effect of wiring and noise suppressors that “*billyearle”* has experienced is one such thing. [/size]

 [size=small]I have only read half of *“Spritzer”*‘s posts so far, just started on the “Orthodynamics” thread, have no idea what a “*Smeggy” Pro *is, or Mr. Willett and Co. referenced by *“Sherwood”*, I amwondering how *“Duggeh”*’s HE Take2 sounds like, I bought an AKG K1K - *“Krmathis*”’s -favorite, and only listened to it for half an hour so far, waiting for the SRD7 PRO conversion, the list goes on and on…[/size]

 [size=small]Amps like the BHSE are very expensive, quite controversial and not public domain and as such they are the last in my list to explore. On the other hand Digital Signal Processing and enclosure configuration seem to be easier and cheaper for me to experiment. I have some post mastering recording experience and a friend who is a professional Electronics and Audio Engineer to help me explore. [/size]

 [size=small]The Omicron (SR-003) seems quite promising but I just discovered that it came with only one of the three plugs (and don’t know which) and the ergonomics of the headband and plugs may be the killers of this extraordinary set.[/size]

 [size=small]Has anybody thought of a horn enclosure for it?[/size]_

 

Having spent 6 years treating bipolar children in my medical office, I can completely understand, especially dealing with depression myself and ADHD with PDD in my son. If you get fickle sometimes over your gear, it doesn't even have to be due to Bipolar Disorder!

 Also, you have to take everyone's opinions here with a grain of salt, and I haven't met (or read) anyone on head-fi that is correct 100% of the time. Even with a Buffallo DAC feeding a KGBH, the O2 Mk1 don't do everything perfectly, and there are some things we liked more with other stats (Mk2, Jade, Koss, HE60, Smegma Pro) and some things we liked more with the O2 Mk1. The O2 Mk1 cannot wipe the floor with a K1000, and the SRD-7 pro with a clean amp can drive an O2 very decently, so Krmathis is right in that regard.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And not only a dynamic but a... Denon! Aaagh, the horror!

 Ah, I take it back. At least a Denon is not an Ultrasone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Kintsaki, I'm just joking. Sometimes I don't take things seriously (and get in trouble with the Stax Mafia). 

 If you don't like the O2Mk1 or O2Mk2, good for you! So what? So the best Stax flagship headphone (actually the O2Mk2 now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) isn't for you. Listen to whatever makes the music more enjoyable or sound better to you. If it's a lowly Denon, so be it. Let them laugh, I say, while we enjoy our music.

 Uh, oh, I may be in trouble with the Mafia again._

 

As long as your Jades are still in the hands of the "Mafia" you may want to be careful, otherwise the next time you listen to Emily Sparks through them you may find yourself crying, but for a different reason this time.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No seriously, I am thinking to return the Jades and invest on building the older 2SA1968 CCS version.
 Omicron is the sexiest babe I ever had and the O2 can be made to sparkle enough for me through DSP. So if the amp that Spritzer is building now does away with the granular and hazy character of the 717 while retaining the bandwidth and power I will be better off this way. 
 Oh, and I can always run down the street (Denon) for a hot dog when I get home sick for one.

 And as for Emily she makes me cry no matter what.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will have to wait a while on that BHSE schematic as I see no reason for Justin to share it. You could just as well build the older 2SA1968 CCS version like I'm doing. Here is what I did over the weekend...





 Those are premium PRP resistors and since then some of the transistors, tube sockets and the pots have been installed. 

 To get the feel for how the arc should be bent, try grabbing each earcup with the phones on your head playing music and changing the angle slightly of the earpieces. Try not to break the seal or cover the back of the headphone in any way as that will alter the results. I usually place each and behind the cups, with the middle finger on top of the phone where the Stax logo is and the thumb holding the bottom. Then I try to move them a bit by but be gentle as they can't take a lot of abuse._

 


 Can you please outline a road map for me to do the required reading and ask Yanni to help me pursuit the project you are working on while waiting for the BHSE?

 The Jade was only better than the Std Sigma driven by the T 10 for my taste. So I will be returning it and invest the money on a better amp than the 717 to drive all my other estats. I found Omicron so much sexier kind like Alizee over Madonna.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you please outline a road map for me to do the required reading and ask Yanni to help me pursuit the project you are working on while waiting for the BHSE?_

 

There is no clear road map other then what we've been working on for about 18 months now. This amp is not a stopgap until I get the BHSE but supposed to meet it head on and I'll see which one I like more. This one will be a huge upgrade over my old BH in design and choice of parts but how it will sound is still up the air.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having spent 6 years treating bipolar children in my medical office, I can completely understand, especially dealing with depression myself and ADHD with PDD in my son. If you get fickle sometimes over your gear, it doesn't even have to be due to Bipolar Disorder!

 Also, you have to take everyone's opinions here with a grain of salt, and I haven't met (or read) anyone on head-fi that is correct 100% of the time. Even with a Buffallo DAC feeding a KGBH, the O2 Mk1 don't do everything perfectly, and there are some things we liked more with other stats (Mk2, Jade, Koss, HE60, Smegma Pro) and some things we liked more with the O2 Mk1. The O2 Mk1 cannot wipe the floor with a K1000, and the SRD-7 pro with a clean amp can drive an O2 very decently, so Krmathis is right in that regard. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thanks Larry

 I have a student, same age as my son, with ADHD and we are very close friends. I dont know what PDD is. 
 And of course the mysterious Smeggy Pro has come up again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway most of the time I am happy with Omicron (Alizee as you very well remember)


----------



## smeggy

the mysterious Smeggy Pro...
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5417945-post9879.html


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*I basically am feeling the same way, but cannot bring myself to use such strong language about the O2s
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, and I still need some time to "mind burn-in" with them. So Kintsaki, have you heard em with the Blue Hawaii? *_

 

 Well now that Kintsaki has done a Mea Culpa I'm feeling a little alone in the cold for showing my support
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I did qualify by saying "basically". I never felt O2 to have an etch, or be mickey mouse. I have issues I'm working out with them, ergomics etc, but I sure wouldn't have ordered a BHSE if I didn't have faith in their abilities
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I feel the 3 Staxes I've owned over the last 20 years to be my 1st, 2nd and 3rd Wives. I was completely faithful to the first 2, never heard a dynamic to give them anything to worry about. It's only now that I'm at a point of needing some Dynamic mistresses for a little variety
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I now hope "The Great Stax Mafia Purges of Feb. '09" will pass over me
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 My human wife is calling, must go.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Larry

 I have a student, same age as my son, with ADHD and we are very close friends. I dont know what PDD is. 
 And of course the mysterious Smeggy Pro has come up again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway most of the time I am happy with Omicron (Alizee as you very well remember)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The SR-003 (Baby O2) is very nice, and out of even an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro it wipes up the floor with most dynamics.

 The Smegma Pro is a pro bias headphone that costs less than an O2 or ESP950 and doesn't have the etch or over-brightness of the Lambda series. My cost was $350 for Gamma Pro, $130 ear pads, $20 broken AKG K240M, and $60 shipping both ways, and Smeggy generously donated 6 months of his time to build them for free because he felt sorry for me without any K1000. In the long run, they compete most with the ESP950, while the Stock Gamma Pro were not even as good as a normal bias Lambda.


----------



## indikator

one of cool thing of lambda is that it doesn't loose its magic when lifted up from ear, I bet sigma (in the same principle) does sound really good, which makes me wonder why stax discontinued them


----------



## Keithpgdrb

what other headphones use the same ribbon cable as the normal bial sr-lambda? are there any? spritzer had said the 202 cable is the same with a pro bias plug, but do any of the other vintage cans use it? sr5nb? sigma? If maybe I can find someones broken cans, I can get a cable. still waiting on responses on acquiring a 202 cable.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-Sigma cable is nearly identical to the Lambda cable.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Sigma cable is nearly identical to the Lambda cable._

 

hmmmm, how much should I expect to pay for a broken sigma with a good cable? If thats even something I can remotely find.


----------



## vvanrij

I'm sorry to bust in here like this with a totally random question, but here are all the people that know alot of the stax line and who's ears I trust 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. So basicly, Stax SR-Lambda Pro vs SR303/404. It seems my 404 got lost in postal service, and moronic me, I lost my postal receipt with its number, so I have no grounds for a claim whatsoever 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Now I searched the FS for some 'deals' that could ease my financial lost, so I was wondering how the Lambda Pro stack up to the SR-404?

 Cheers.

 (btw I now use a SR-202 with the SRM-323A. Its sound is so much closer to the 404 than I expected, and it looks way way better)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmmm, how much should I expect to pay for a broken sigma with a good cable? If thats even something I can remotely find._

 

It's impossible to tell...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

thanks again spritzer, I'll see what I can come up with. appreciate you sharing your experience.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry to bust in here like this with a totally random question, but here are all the people that know alot of the stax line and who's ears I trust 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. So basicly, Stax SR-Lambda Pro vs SR303/404. It seems my 404 got lost in postal service, and moronic me, I lost my postal receipt with its number, so I have no grounds for a claim whatsoever 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Now I searched the FS for some 'deals' that could ease my financial lost, so I was wondering how the Lambda Pro stack up to the SR-404?

 Cheers.

 (btw I now use a SR-202 with the SRM-323A. Its sound is so much closer to the 404 than I expected, and it looks way way better)_

 

What if you looked up the transaction ID on your credit card, and took that to the post office to have them look up the transaction?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Headphone addict, or whoever,

 I have heard you mention the travagans red on a few occasions now. I am going to put together a stand alone electrostatic rig because I have had it with my existing tempermental amp. what would you say is a better performer, the travagans red, or the nuforce icon? I would be running the sr-lambda and srd-7sb combo. I've done my best to search through your threads on the nuforce already, but I see you mentioned the travagans in your recent meet thread as well.


----------



## Lornecherry

the mysterious Smeggy Pro...

 I do have a pair of Gamma Pros that I dislike (compared to 404 or LNS), is it the creeky, horrible housing that gives them their sound signature?

 Any chance of guiding me through the steps in your project Smeggy ... I gather from what I've read so far that it's an AKG 240(s) housing + Omega pads + some custom exotic tree that's only available in lower Mongolia during a lunar eclipse?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Headphone addict, or whoever,

 I have heard you mention the travagans red on a few occasions now. I am going to put together a stand alone electrostatic rig because I have had it with my existing tempermental amp. what would you say is a better performer, the travagans red, or the nuforce icon? I would be running the sr-lambda and srd-7sb combo. I've done my best to search through your threads on the nuforce already, but I see you mentioned the travagans in your recent meet thread as well._

 

The Nuforce has a tad more bass and mids than the Travagans with AD743 opamps while the Travagans Red is a little brighter. 

 So I like to pair the Nuforce up more with the SR-Lambda, SR-003 and HE60, while the Red is a little better balanced sounding with the O2 Mk2 and ESP950. I can switch the Red to OPA627 opamps and tone down the highs a tad for the Lambda and HE60.

 However, the O2 like the extra power of the Nuforce just a little more, although I find the O2 Mk1 are better with the Nuforce than the Mk2 because of the Mk2 bump in the mids. The Jade and Smegma Pro seem to do okay with either amp, but the Woo GES is much better with all of them. 

 Still, the Nuforce has been getting most of the use with the Pro bias phones on the SRD-7 Pro, and the Red has been used most with the normal bias on the SRD-7 SB.

 Lastly, the speaker out of the Nuforce is better than it's headphone out, while the Headphone out of the Travagans is a little better than it's speaker out. The Travagans speaker out seems to drive a stax transformer much better than it can drive a real speaker. Don't ask me why.


----------



## n3rdling

Who won the mint SR Lambda on ebay?

 I just won the Lambda + SRD-6SB on audiogon for 225; it'll be my first time trying out a transformer. I'm gonna test the Lambda vs my Lambda Signature and the SRD-6SB vs my SRM-1/MK-2 C series. Winners go to the new room beside the Quad 57's. Losers get sold.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who won the mint SR Lambda on ebay?

 I just won the Lambda + SRD-6SB on audiogon for 225; it'll be my first time trying out a transformer. I'm gonna test the Lambda vs my Lambda Signature and the SRD-6SB vs my SRM-1/MK-2 C series. Winners go to the new room beside the Quad 57's. Losers get sold. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, you will want to keep the winner and loser in this case.


----------



## donunus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 (btw I now use a SR-202 with the SRM-323A. Its sound is so much closer to the 404 than I expected, and it looks way way better)_

 

how does the 202 sound with the 252 compared to your old 323a. Is the 323a a big improvement?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* I dug out my old Lamdas, and sorry this is so horribly unscientific, but for now, with the new cables AND the harvesters, my old Lamdas are sounding much smoother and a little less bright, definitely improved. (I gave them a listen before the cables & noise harvesters showed, and they sounded really grainy, almost pixilized, and thin, after having the Omegas) I can only hope to have such noticeable improvements when the O2/717 gets back. I don't even feel up to listening to phones right now, so I'll try testing some more later. 
 I also wanted to say beatiful phones to HP Addict! How do you like them?*_

 

That's kinda what I hear from the Harvesters. They do nice things to all my phones and speakers systems, but I would agree that 2 Harvetsers plugged into the same power strip as the rest of a system will get rid of a lot of Lambda etch.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Nuforce has a tad more bass and mids than the Travagans with AD743 opamps while the Travagans Red is a little brighter. 

 So I like to pair the Nuforce up more with the SR-Lambda, SR-003 and HE60, while the Red is a little better balanced sounding with the O2 Mk2 and ESP950. I can switch the Red to OPA627 opamps and tone down the highs a tad for the Lambda and HE60.

 However, the O2 like the extra power of the Nuforce just a little more, although I find the O2 Mk1 are better with the Nuforce than the Mk2 because of the Mk2 bump in the mids. The Jade and Smegma Pro seem to do okay with either amp, but the Woo GES is much better with all of them. 

 Still, the Nuforce has been getting most of the use with the Pro bias phones on the SRD-7 Pro, and the Red has been used most with the normal bias on the SRD-7 SB.

 Lastly, the speaker out of the Nuforce is better than it's headphone out, while the Headphone out of the Travagans is a little better than it's speaker out. The Travagans speaker out seems to drive a stax transformer much better than it can drive a real speaker. Don't ask me why._

 

its funny that you mention you would pair the nuforce with the sr-lambda, but that you are doing the opposite in practice. I think the nuforce is the overall winner from your description, as long as it doesnt lose detail. I like detail, but the lambdas could use a little boost on the low end. I didnt plan on using the hp out on the amp, as I will be using it for the stax. so it sounds like the nuforce is a solid answer.

 when you referred to the opamp numbers, were you talking about actually changing a chip in the amp itself? I've not heard of that.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its funny that you mention you would pair the nuforce with the sr-lambda, but that you are doing the opposite in practice. I think the nuforce is the overall winner from your description, as long as it doesnt lose detail. I like detail, but the lambdas could use a little boost on the low end. I didnt plan on using the hp out on the amp, as I will be using it for the stax. so it sounds like the nuforce is a solid answer.

 when you referred to the opamp numbers, were you talking about actually changing a chip in the amp itself? I've not heard of that._

 

Yeah, the Nuforce is still fairly good with everything, but not as good with the SR-003 as the Red, so I just keep an amp paired with a transformer and this is how it worked out. The Nuforce is very detailed via speaker out, but less detailed via headphone out, so you should be safe.

 You may also want to go read Skylab's review of the A-3 tube amp from head-direct which has a nice headphone out and nice speaker out. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/rev...peakers-401697 I was planning to try one at some point myself.

 Opamps are chips inside which can be changed to alter the sound, like changing tubes but solid state instead of glass.

 PS: I've gone an connected the Red to the pre-amp out of the Nuforce, and connected an SRD-7 Mk2 SB to it the Red (one pro and one normal bias jack). Then I plugged the SRD-7 SB (normal bias) into the speaker outs of the SRD-7 Pro. So I can switch the SRD-7 Pro it to "stats" and use the two built-in pro bias, or to "speakers" which activates the two normal bias jacks on the SRD-7 SB. So, now I can listen to normal or Pro bis phone out of either the Nuforce or the Red.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, the Nuforce is still fairly good with everything, but not as good with the SR-003 as the Red, so I just keep an amp paired with a transformer and this is how it worked out. The Nuforce is very detailed via speaker out, but less detailed via headphone out, so you should be safe.

 You may also want to go read Skylab's review of the A-3 tube amp from head-direct which has a nice headphone out and nice speaker out. REVIEW: Qinpu Q-2 and A-3 Amplifiers and V-5 Speakers - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio I was planning to try one at some point myself.

 Opamps are chips inside which can be changed to alter the sound, like changing tubes but solid state instead of glass.

 PS: I've gone an connected the Red to the pre-amp out of the Nuforce, and connected an SRD-7 Mk2 SB to it the Red (one pro and one normal bias jack). Then I plugged the SRD-7 SB (normal bias) into the speaker outs of the SRD-7 Pro. So I can switch the SRD-7 Pro it to "stats" and use the two built-in pro bias, or to "speakers" which activates the two normal bias jacks on the SRD-7 SB. So, now I can listen to normal or Pro bis phone out of either the Nuforce or the Red. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

HP,
 -thanks for the specifics on how you think these should work.
 -I've just finished reading skylabs review of the A-3. sounds like a second contender. plus, I was considering getting a D2000, which skylab said sounded pretty sweet out of the amp. sure would be great to have a one box solution!!
 -thanks for the info on the op chips. I never knew you could do that. I assumed all that stuff was soldered in. chip rolling, go figure.
 -well that sounds like a pretty nice little setup. I would hate to see the birds nest of cables, but I would love to hear the tasty music it would make.
 appreciate your help, thanks.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no clear road map other then what we've been working on for about 18 months now. This amp is not a stopgap until I get the BHSE but supposed to meet it head on and I'll see which one I like more. This one will be a huge upgrade over my old BH in design and choice of parts but how it will sound is still up the air._

 

Sorry for a rather delayed response.

 1) O2 fit and ear pads

 What is the first step to take off the pads?
 Has anybody considered replacing the foam inside the pads with NASA memory foam?

 To give you an idea for the size of my head, The Omicron headband is just slightly larger than my head when fully open.

 I bended the O2 arcs back to their original shape and experimented with positioning and rotation of ear pads and I can see the differences. The best is the original with the thick portion on the back. 
 I still cannot see much of a difference when using thumb and index fingers to change the angle. But I do see a difference when the cans are moved to fire directly into the ear canals. 
 Can I obtain proper seal with worn foam by applying pressure with my hands?

 2) Old BH? amp DIY project

 who is "we" ?

 can I contribute in any way?

 what are the subassembly modules (ie PSU, SS driver stage, VT stage)?

 Are there schematics, PWB's, 2SA1968 and PRP resistor parts available through Headfiers? or only through Vendors?

 what is the approximate parts cost excluding chassis?

 is a wooden chassis feasible? or there needs to be a metal one?


----------



## lyricalmoments

just got my SRM-717 and 007A and I'm looking at upgrading my source. Deciding whether to go balance, friend of mine has loan me his Slinkylinks Silver XLR cables to try.

 What would be a good CDP with balanced output that I can get for $1.5k to $2k? I listen mainly to classical music (chamber to large orchestra).

 Perhaps SRM-717 / 007(A) users might want to share their experience and feedback on a good source. I was recommended these so far:

 1. Cambridge Audio 840c
 2. Roksan Kandy
 3. Goldenote Koala (tube CDP)

 Looking for something on the musical side. Thanks


----------



## vvanrij

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What if you looked up the transaction ID on your credit card, and took that to the post office to have them look up the transaction?_

 

Hi Larry, thanks for the tip I did it, but unfortunetly both the local post office as the main office that I called told me that without the receipt barcode they can't do anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'm just gonna hope it arrives anyway, else I might be off selling my 323 instead, my dynamic rig is getting the best of my stax' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just got my SRM-717 and 007A and I'm looking at upgrading my source. Deciding whether to go balance, friend of mine has loan me his Slinkylinks Silver XLR cables to try.

 What would be a good CDP with balanced output that I can get for $1.5k to $2k? I listen mainly to classical music (chamber to large orchestra).

 Perhaps SRM-717 / 007(A) users might want to share their experience and feedback on a good source. I was recommended these so far:

 1. Cambridge Audio 840c
 2. Roksan Kandy
 3. Goldenote Koala (tube CDP)

 Looking for something on the musical side. Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What CD player have you got at the moment and does it have optical or coax out. If it's half decent it might be worth considering upgrading to an external dac. For the money your talking about spending you could get a very good dac which may be a better improvement than just buying a new player. Have a look in the source forum, load of info there.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What CD player have you got at the moment and does it have optical or coax out. If it's half decent it might be worth considering upgrading to an external dac. For the money your talking about spending you could get a very good dac which may be a better improvement than just buying a new player. Have a look in the source forum, load of info there._

 

I'm using a Benchmark DAC1 USB using the Mac pro as transport, in my work room. Thing is, I'm planning to move the Stax to another study room and need another source.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for a rather delayed response.

 1) O2 fit and ear pads

 What is the first step to take off the pads?
 Has anybody considered replacing the foam inside the pads with NASA memory foam?

 To give you an idea for the size of my head, The Omicron headband is just slightly larger than my head when fully open._

 

The earpads just pull off but beware that they are a pain to get back on the first few times. I've never bothered to mess with the foam as I always have had some good use for my old pads. The foam should be pretty soft though if you plan on messing with it and I would reuse the more dense backing layer. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bended the O2 arcs back to their original shape and experimented with positioning and rotation of ear pads and I can see the differences. The best is the original with the thick portion on the back. 
 I still cannot see much of a difference when using thumb and index fingers to change the angle. But I do see a difference when the cans are moved to fire directly into the ear canals. 
 Can I obtain proper seal with worn foam by applying pressure with my hands?_

 

The foam has to provide support so that the drivers are at the right distance from the ears. When the foam is too degraded it does affect the seal but not nearly as much as the distance factor. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2) Old BH? amp DIY project

 who is "we" ?

 can I contribute in any way?

 what are the subassembly modules (ie PSU, SS driver stage, VT stage)?

 Are there schematics, PWB's, 2SA1968 and PRP resistor parts available through Headfiers? or only through Vendors?

 what is the approximate parts cost excluding chassis?

 is a wooden chassis feasible? or there needs to be a metal one?_

 

The "old" Blue Hawaii refers to the original design with all the original parts. Some are very hard to find and/or very expensive now so there have been some unofficial changes to the design. 

 The schematics are all on Headwise and I believe I have the last PCB's but they aren't for sale. The amp will be at more then 3k$ with chassis and a wooden chassis is a very bad idea given the voltages and heat at play here.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good CDP with balanced output that I can get for $1.5k to $2k? I listen mainly to classical music (chamber to large orchestra).

 Looking for something on the musical side. Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe a used Accuphase DP-500? It is on the musical side. Very smooth and liquid. You might find it to be very different from the Benchmark DAC1. It also as optical and coax inputs for use as a DAC, very useful for adding an AirPort Express or Squeezebox.

 You might need adapters to reverse the XLR pins 2 and 3.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using a Benchmark DAC1 USB using the Mac pro as transport, in my work room. Thing is, I'm planning to move the Stax to another study room and need another source._

 

I prefer the Lavry DA10 over the old version Benchmark DAC1. Maybe the new DA11 could be another option, plus one of those nice-looking top-load DIY transport kits if you need a disc player.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe a used Accuphase DP-500? It is on the musical side. Very smooth and liquid. You might find it to be very different from the Benchmark DAC1. It also as optical and coax inputs for use as a DAC, very useful for adding an AirPort Express or Squeezebox.

 You might need adapters to reverse the XLR pins 2 and 3.


 I prefer the Lavry DA10 over the old version Benchmark DAC1. Maybe the new DA11 could be another option, plus one of those nice-looking top-load DIY transport kits if you need a disc player._

 

I really liked the DA10 that I wrote about in the meets impressions forum - we used it with my Stax O2/Woo GES in an 11/9/08 mini-meet with plaidplatypus. I liked it a little more than my Apogee mini-DAC. My plan is to sell my Edition 9 and spare parts for a DA11.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just won the Lambda + SRD-6SB on audiogon for 225; it'll be my first time trying out a transformer. I'm gonna test the Lambda vs my Lambda Signature and the SRD-6SB vs my SRM-1/MK-2 C series. Winners go to the new room beside the Quad 57's. Losers get sold. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

You were up early in the AM, you beat me out on those by an email!


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The earpads just pull off but beware that they are a pain to get back on the first few times. _

 

So do I just yank them off? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The foam has to provide support so that the drivers are at the right distance from the ears. When the foam is too degraded it does affect the seal but not nearly as much as the distance factor. _

 

Excellent ! So it is the distance that is the critical factor.
That does make sense as it agrees wih my observation. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The "old" Blue Hawaii refers to the original design with all the original parts. Some are very hard to find and/or very expensive now so there have been some unofficial changes to the design. 

 The schematics are all on Headwise and I believe I have the last PCB's but they aren't for sale. The amp will be at more then 3k$ with chassis and a wooden chassis is a very bad idea given the voltages and heat at play here._

 

Where are the revised schematics?
Who made the PCB's and can probably make some more for me?
Who sells an appropriate metal chassis?
Who sells the PRP resistors? and who sells the 2SA1968's?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So do I just yank them off?_

 

Pull on the outer edge and they come right off. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where are the revised schematics?_

 

Under wraps by those that made them if there were any schematics drawn in the first place. Most aren't prepared for the flood of information requests which go along with posting a popular design or the annoying PM's asking for custom amps to be built. This isn't an open source project in any way like the PoorMan amp. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who made the PCB's and can probably make some more for me?_

 

I had the last batch and the few left aren't for sale. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who sells an appropriate metal chassis?_

 

I have no idea. Mine are custom jobs using laser cut panels and custom made heatsinks. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who sells the PRP resistors? and who sells the 2SA1968's?_

 

You can get these parts all over the place and a simple google search will find quite a few. You can use just about any resistors though which are rated for 500v. That said I would advise against building a BH unless you have built a few electrostatic amps as this is the most complicated headphone amp around. Removing all the heat is a big problem on it's own despite all of the voltage and current involved.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You were up early in the AM, you beat me out on those by an email! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

West coast 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did a search right before bed and found them


----------



## powertoold

Hello,

 I have two questions and would appreciate some answers!

 1) Do the SB transformers lose their bias over time like the electret headphones?

 2) If I plugged a normal bias phone into a pro bias transformer, would the normal bias phone be permanently damaged instantly? Can I just test it out with low volume and have it be okay?


----------



## xantus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 I have two questions and would appreciate some answers!

 2) If I plugged a normal bias phone into a pro bias transformer, would the normal bias phone be permanently damaged instantly? Can I just test it out with low volume and have it be okay?_

 

you can't do this.. normal bias is 6 pins, pro is 5 pins. it wont physically fit.


----------



## John Buchanan

1. The bias in SB transformers is derived from the amplifier output - not the same as electret diaphragms
 2. It is possible to insert a six pin normal bias phone into a 5 pin outlet, but only if you use the old Stax extension lead, which is 5 pins male at one end and 6 pins female at the other. Not good, but not fatal, as the screeching noises alerted me immediately to what I had done. Newer extension cables are 5 pin to 5 pin and older ones are 6 pin to 6 pin. Incidentally, that 5 to 6 pin cable also allowed normal usage of normal bias phones if plugged into a normal bias outlet.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xantus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you can't do this.. normal bias is 6 pins, pro is 5 pins. it wont physically fit._

 

I have a 34 electret set ( sr 30 and srd 4 adapter). They have 5 pins and holes respectively. If I use an amp with both pro and normal outlets which would I plug it into? Would using the pro hurt it?

 Thanks.


----------



## Oublie

either will work, an electret is self biasing i.e. it doesn't use the bias supply from the amp so it will work on any stax amp you could even plug them into a blue hawaii.


----------



## jigster

Anyone got a HE60-to-Stax adapter for sale??


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_either will work, an electret is self biasing i.e. it doesn't use the bias supply from the amp so it will work on any stax amp you could even plug them into a blue hawaii._

 

Thanks for a quick reply. Just got it home from the PO, connected up, will let it warm for a half-hour or more and listen (well, listened a short bit just to make sure it was all working well). Happy to have it. Unfortunately I leave in a couple of hours to go out of town for the weekend (middle eastern weekend, thurs fri). Will not get to really fool around until Friday.


----------



## vvanrij

Lambda Pro vs LNS vs SR-303. Has anybody heard atleast 2 out of this 3, and could comment me about their differnces in sound signature? I will be driving them from a SRM-323A, and am leaning towards the LNS because I read it should have a more neutral sound (less sucked out mids) en also more bass. Cheers.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda Pro vs LNS vs SR-303. Has anybody heard atleast 2 out of this 3, and could comment me about their differnces in sound signature? I will be driving them from a SRM-323A, and am leaning towards the LNS because I read it should have a more neutral sound (less sucked out mids) en also more bass. Cheers._

 

LNS beats the other two for me. It is my favorite Lambda. 

 SR-303 is the most aggressive of these three with slightly hot upper mids and the nice bass it seems. Lambda Pro has a strange midrange dip, aggressive HF and bass that is nice, but a bit boomy. LNS is very polite and accurate with every flat response across the board, bass is great as well lean and extended, but without a lot of slam. LNS is also the most detailed to my ears, has the best soundstage and is the least fatiguing. I would say LNS reminds me of O2 the most, but it still has all of the Lambda character just smoother and more refined. Lambda Signature is a bit more detailed than LNS it seems but it has that hot upper mids and aggressive HF, that annoyed me.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda Signature is a bit more detailed than LNS it seems but it has that hot upper mids and aggressive HF, that annoyed me._

 

Interesting observation. I would like to hear the LNS. The Lambda Signature is my favorite Lambda, in many ways because of the annoyances you describe (and which I can understand). The Lambda Signature remind me a bit of a Grado HF-1 with sweeter mids.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LNS beats the other two for me. It is my favorite Lambda. 

 SR-303 is the most aggressive of these three with slightly hot upper mids and the nice bass it seems. Lambda Pro has a strange midrange dip, aggressive HF and bass that is nice, but a bit boomy. LNS is very polite and accurate with every flat response across the board, bass is great as well lean and extended, but without a lot of slam. LNS is also the most detailed to my ears, has the best soundstage and is the least fatiguing. I would say LNS reminds me of O2 the most, but it still has all of the Lambda character just smoother and more refined. Lambda Signature is a bit more detailed than LNS it seems but it has that hot upper mids and aggressive HF, that annoyed me._

 

I agree fully. The LNS is also my favorite Lambda. I don't mind the sucked out midrange of the Lambda Pro. I don't like the forward upper midrange of the Lambda Signature or 404/303. I also really enjoy the Koss ESP950.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 I have two questions and would appreciate some answers!

 1) Do the SB transformers lose their bias over time like the electret headphones?_

 

Some of my friends have advanced degrees in chemistry and/or physics, and they find the concept of an electret 'losing' charge over time to be amusingly naive. 

 Basically, a polymer with short, bipolar molecules is heated to it's melting point in the presence of an extremely strong field. This causes the molecules to physically align themselves with the field. You then allow it to cool, and you have a material where almost all of one surface is positive and almost all of the opposing surface is negative. 

 The molecules don't just rearrange themselves out of boredom. They're stuck. in 40 years, short of being exposed to the same sorts of forces that aligned them, they'll still be stuck. 

 In the late 70's, some engineers at Sony postulated that the observable decrease in the sensitivity of electret transducers with use may be due not to a loss of charge in the electret material but due to a buildup of electrostatic charge in the transducer itself, which is essentially a capacitor. 

 The design of all the Stax and most of the A-T and other electrets doesn't give you any way to drain charge between a stator and the diaphragm without destroying the driver.

 The ECR-500 and presumably the other sony uni-electret transducers have frames constructed out of a semiconducting plastic that in theory acts like a giant hundreds-of-megohms resistor that touches every active part of the driver. This allows the capacitance to drain off when the music stops. 

 According to the claims in the uni-electret transducer patent, it works, too. 

 Do electret transducers sometimes die more than would be explained by a built up charge? You bet. I have an example of a very insensitive SR-30 driver at home. Why? We don't know. 

 But it's probably not because millions of polymers decided to reverse themselves. Even if you somehow induced arcing, which is unlikely, you'd only damage a tiny portion of the surface. 

 Maybe a large transient affected the tension negatively? I don't know. 

 As for self-bias electrostat energizers, they derive bias voltage by stealing a tiny amount of current from the audio signal. Works a treat. Some super-old devices - greater than 30 years old - might have diodes and capacitors that are getting tired and need replacing. Has been observed to be an issue with some Koss energizers. Never heard of an issue with a Stax energizer.


----------



## billyearle

Hi, sorry this is only indirectly Stax-related, in my quest to get the most performance/enjoyment out of my SR-007s. 
*Can anyone share or direct me to knowledge to better sound-proof my bedroom windows? *
 I have _CONSTANT_ traffic-drone from the NYC avenue below. I've got these modern hi-rise windows that are aprox 8 feet wide by 5 feet high. When I first moved here 9 years ago I was so frustrated by the droning sound that I gave up listening mainly to classical, shifting towards music & types of recordings that would be less effected by the noise
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. (I was also getting a bit of Classical-ennui.) 
 There's not as big a problem with sudden loud noises, like car-horns & sirens, though they do occur more often than I'd like. But that constant drone is akin to VERY loud tape-hiss or tube rush, & can obliviate the nuances and details in orchestral music particularly.
 I don't think limiting myself exclusively to closed phones is the best option, though I am looking into those more. I had practically given up on my windows, but the O2 (and my looming BHSE order debt) is making me determined again
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 I'm no carpenter, and would definitely like to do this for less than a pair of R-10s. I tried googling this a few months ago, and all I could find was some curtains which seem no-longer-available, and custom window installations which wouldn't show their cost rates. Everything I found was of uncertain to dubious benefit.

 P.S. I tried posting a new thread on this topic, but seems either I don't yet have that privilege, or can't figure out how to do so. (but as Staxes tend to be the most finely nuanced and open phones I still hope my question is relevent to Staxer's concerns.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## The Monkey

White noise machine?


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_White noise machine?_

 

 There IS such a thing? Even if so, are you serious? I'm not mocking the suggestion, it just seems too easy to be true. your joking right.

 And holy cow, Monkey, I'm glad I noticed the link in your post about an NY meet!! You said you'd pass on the info when a meet came up, and now you have! Looks like I'll see you there
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










.


----------



## scompton

There are good ones and bad ones, but I don't know about listening to music with open headphones in a room where one is playing. They'll make you want to turn the volume up too high over it. Otherwise, you'll only hear the loudest music. It really will have the same effect as the drone of NYC coming though the window. 

 I'd think heavy curtains would be your best bet.


----------



## catscratch

You might also consider the Stax 4070 if you really do need the isolation. I haven't heard it, but it's pretty highly regarded.


----------



## Faust2D

Heavy curtains should do the trick. I used them in my old Brooklyn apt and got rig of most of the noise.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There IS such a thing? Even if so, are you serious? I'm not mocking the suggestion, it just seems too easy to be true. your joking right.._

 

Umm, I have a white noise machine. Does pink too - mono 1/4 output...


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LNS beats the other two for me. It is my favorite Lambda._

 

X2

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## Lornecherry

Move to Canada. All our noise here is American light.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, sorry this is only indirectly Stax-related, in my quest to get the most performance/enjoyment out of my SR-007s. 
*Can anyone share or direct me to knowledge to better sound-proof my bedroom windows? *
 I have CONSTANT traffic-drone from the NYC avenue below. I've got these modern hi-rise windows that are aprox 8 feet wide by 5 feet high. When I first moved here 9 years ago I was so frustrated by the droning sound that I gave up listening mainly to classical, shifting towards music & types of recordings that would be less effected by the noise
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. (I was also getting a bit of Classical-ennui.) 
 There's not as big a problem with sudden loud noises, like car-horns & sirens, though they do occur more often than I'd like. But that constant drone is akin to VERY loud tape-hiss or tube rush, & can obliviate the nuances and details in orchestral music particularly.
 I don't think limiting myself exclusively to closed phones is the best option, though I am looking into those more. I had practically given up on my windows, but the O2 (and my looming BHSE order debt) is making me determined again
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 I'm no carpenter, and would definitely like to do this for less than a pair of R-10s. I tried googling this a few months ago, and all I could find was some curtains which seem no-longer-available, and custom window installations which wouldn't show their cost rates. Everything I found was of uncertain to dubious benefit.

 P.S. I tried posting a new thread on this topic, but seems either I don't yet have that privilege, or can't figure out how to do so. (but as Staxes tend to be the most finely nuanced and open phones I still hope my question is relevent to Staxer's concerns.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

I assume you can't rebuild the window with double-pane glass. Curtains may help somewhat but you really need mass to block sound. I have worked in soundproof rooms that had 1 ft thick concrete walls mounted on springs inside another 1 foot concrete room.

 If it's not feasible to brick up the window, check the frame for air leaks. A good bit of sound may be coming through cracks which could be stopped with sealant.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of my friends have advanced degrees in chemistry and/or physics, and they find the concept of an electret 'losing' charge over time to be amusingly naive. 

 Basically, a polymer with short, bipolar molecules is heated to it's melting point in the presence of an extremely strong field. This causes the molecules to physically align themselves with the field. You then allow it to cool, and you have a material where almost all of one surface is positive and almost all of the opposing surface is negative. 

 The molecules don't just rearrange themselves out of boredom. They're stuck. in 40 years, short of being exposed to the same sorts of forces that aligned them, they'll still be stuck. 

 In the late 70's, some engineers at Sony postulated that the observable decrease in the sensitivity of electret transducers with use may be due not to a loss of charge in the electret material but due to a buildup of electrostatic charge in the transducer itself, which is essentially a capacitor. 

 The design of all the Stax and most of the A-T and other electrets doesn't give you any way to drain charge between a stator and the diaphragm without destroying the driver.

 The ECR-500 and presumably the other sony uni-electret transducers have frames constructed out of a semiconducting plastic that in theory acts like a giant hundreds-of-megohms resistor that touches every active part of the driver. This allows the capacitance to drain off when the music stops. 

 According to the claims in the uni-electret transducer patent, it works, too. 

 Do electret transducers sometimes die more than would be explained by a built up charge? You bet. I have an example of a very insensitive SR-30 driver at home. Why? We don't know. 

 But it's probably not because millions of polymers decided to reverse themselves. Even if you somehow induced arcing, which is unlikely, you'd only damage a tiny portion of the surface. 

 Maybe a large transient affected the tension negatively? I don't know. 

 As for self-bias electrostat energizers, they derive bias voltage by stealing a tiny amount of current from the audio signal. Works a treat. Some super-old devices - greater than 30 years old - might have diodes and capacitors that are getting tired and need replacing. Has been observed to be an issue with some Koss energizers. Never heard of an issue with a Stax energizer._

 

You are quite right and the theory that they were simply loosing potential is very old and I've even seen it from people that used to repair Stax headphones. It's the same wrong conclusions that gave the SR-Omega such a bad name and has caused many good drivers to end up in the dumpster due to the electret effect. 

 I've replaced diodes in a few old Stax boxes and it is easy enough to do as there are only two.


----------



## Michgelsen

Ericj is talking about electrets, but are you saying that his explanation also counts for electrostats when you talk about the SR-Omega? May I conclude then, that the electret effect causing a channel imbalance in some electrostats, is fixable? I thought the only solution was a driver replacement, because the membrane has then built up a charge that can't be drained.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-Omega was a bad example but the true reason why they have been failing is blamed on the large membrane when it couldn't be at fault. The electret effect can sometimes be fixed but not always and there is really no good way to do it. The only chance is that the bias supply can over come the negative potential with time.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 I have two questions and would appreciate some answers!

 1) Do the SB transformers lose their bias over time like the electret headphones?

 2) If I plugged a normal bias phone into a pro bias transformer, would the normal bias phone be permanently damaged instantly? Can I just test it out with low volume and have it be okay?_

 

1. No, not as long as you feed the SB transformer with a audio signal. Since it draw bias voltage from the input audio signal.
 2. Normal bias is 6-pin, while Pro bias is 5-pin. The Normal bias plug wont fit into the Pro bias jack.


----------



## Michgelsen

Spritzer and ericj, you both seem to know a lot about this topic. Can any you provide an explanation for this, concerning the HE60? I'm a bit frightened by the possibility of inducing the imbalance yourself.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer and ericj, you both seem to know a lot about this topic. Can any you provide an explanation for this, concerning the HE60? I'm a bit frightened by the possibility of inducing the imbalance yourself._

 

Wasn't there some apparent imbalance in HE60's when used with Stax amps that was due to the lack of additional resistance on the bias supply? iirc there's a 5 megohm resistor needed. Or maybe that was the HE90. I don't spend a lot of time worrying about headphones I'll never, ever try to purchase. (Too expensive). 

 Sometimes capacitance builds up in a regular electrostatic headphone, and you can drain it off by shorting the pins on the connector together. Obviously while they're not plugged into anything. 

 Experience varies. Some people have 'stats that benefit from being drained off from time to time. Some people have the exact same model 'stats and find that they benefit from being plugged into the bias supply for a long time. 

 The best advice for you, though, is not to drive your HE60 to crazy volume levels. Or any other electrostat or electret.


----------



## spritzer

It was the original HE90 (and some of the first units from the 2005 run) which had these issues but it wasn't just the ballast resistor but also the higher bias which the HE90 didn't like from a Stax amp. Mine always ran fine off 580v though. 

 Same can be said about my He60's but I did add a resistor to the plug when I recabled, just in case.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It was the original HE90 (and some of the first units from the 2005 run) which had these issues but it wasn't just the ballast resistor but also the higher bias which the HE90 didn't like from a Stax amp. Mine always ran fine off 580v though. 

 Same can be said about my He60's but I did add a resistor to the plug when I recabled, just in case._

 

I wonder if "Rudistor" added a resistor when he re-terminated the HE60 I bought from Kees for Stax amps... I always discharge the pins when I am done using them.


----------



## spritzer

Judging by how craptacular everything is that he does I would seriously doubt that there is a resistor in there.


----------



## ashmedai

So I just got my Stax. And ZOMG. Trans-Siberian Orchestra's "Beethoven's Last Night" on these things? ...transcendent. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 But I figured I'd poke around here and see if I can't do a little better on the stuff leading into them. An audio geek's upgrades are never done, eh? So here's what's hooked up to what:

E-MU 0404 USB --> Onkyo TX-SR604 --> SRD-7/MkII --> SR-303

 I also have a Little Dot Mk IV for preamp duty, but it's waiting on cables (and keeps getting swiped for use as a headphone amp).

 Q/A: Would I benefit significantly from getting a different power/integrated amp? If so...what? Some of the NAD integrateds look like a good option, and have source selection to boot. There are also small stereo jobs like the Firestone Big Joe or the TweakCity Gizmo, but maybe those aren't quite powerful enough (I was told I should have about 15W, but I don't know how "about" that is).

 It's almost scary to think that it could actually still get better.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Like a babe in the woods.


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like a babe in the woods. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah...another step or two and "budget" is not going to be a consideration...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

where is there a "lambda" smile? I went to the smile list, and its under "imported". nothing shows up though.


----------



## Currawong

Guys and girls, a friend of mine is pondering selling off his unused Stax gear, which consists of a variety of vintage and fairly new gear, so I'm considering nabbing some of it, depending how things go with the HD-800s.

 My current rig is the SR5NB Gold + Fitz re-boxed portable Stax amp, for which I've ordered a better PSU than the wallwart it came with. The possibilities I'm entertaining are:

 SRM1/MKII for the Golds.
 T1S for the Golds + future Stax.
 T1S for the Golds + 404s.
 T1S + 4070s or O2s (if he'll sell them) + risk of divorce if my wife found out the cost. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I liked the 4040II set when I first heard it, of course due to the $6k Esoteric CD player that was the source, but I'm wondering if my softer sounding Northstar (and future very likely softer sounding DAC) will be a good match with a tube amp and either the Golds or Lambdas. The T1S is hard to pass up as it has the most options -- Normal or Pro, balanced or unbalanced input. I gather though that O2s are nicest with solid state and Lambdas with tubes.

 What would you do in my shoes?


----------



## The Monkey

O2 + T1


----------



## HeadphoneAddict




----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You might also consider the Stax 4070 if you really do need the isolation. I haven't heard it, but it's pretty highly regarded._

 

 Thanks, I've read mixed things about them. A guy in Japan said the sound goes off at a certain volume, so one cannot really rock out to them. Audiod suggested using them with an equalizer to make em more musical. Also, I recall the soundstage isn't supposed to be the greatest, compared to some of the best closed phones in that regard. Hopefully I'll have a chance to hear them soon though at a meet.
 PS, I was just wondering why I haven't seen you in the Stax thread recently, figured you were one of the many Head-fi'ers who got a life, remember reading a lot of your posts while doing research. Antonyfirst (who's woodied CD3000s I recently purchased) speaks highly of you.


----------



## billyearle

* Quote:


  Originally Posted by Faust2D /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Heavy curtains should do the trick. I used them in my old Brooklyn apt and got rig of most of the noise.

 

* 

 Faust, may I ask when you say heavy curtains, do you mean doubling them up with 2 sets, or one good set does the trick for you? I could invest in a heavier rod, but the one I bought should be fine for at least one heavy pair. Do you live off a busy avenue? I know a lot of Brooklyn apts are a lot quieter with the traffic drone, but then you get the intermittent noisy A-holes. While curtain shopping on line, is there any type, keyword, or fabric I should be looking for?
 Guess I'll see you at the March 21 New York City Head-fi meet? I'm really hoping Spritzer makes it down there. I want to show him my arc-bending on the 007, as I'm not sure I'm doing it right.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, someone should get him a ticket for these events.

* Quote:


  Originally Posted by edstrelow /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
I assume you can't rebuild the window with double-pane glass. Curtains may help somewhat but you really need mass to block sound. I have worked in soundproof rooms that had 1 ft thick concrete walls mounted on springs inside another 1 foot concrete room.

 If it's not feasible to brick up the window, check the frame for air leaks. A good bit of sound may be coming through cracks which could be stopped with sealant.

 

* 
 Thanks ed, I already have double-paned windows, but it's just a standard thickness glass, so not great. When not listening to music, it's not really NOISY, you don't really notice it until you either listen to music like classical or other quiet music. I doubt theres much leakage since the windows are a modern metal framed type. As a renter, I don't think I could get away with defacing the Meis VanderRow type frames with calk anyway. Looks like I'll have to settle for curtains first.


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I gather though that O2s are nicest with solid state and Lambdas with tubes._

 

what gave you that impression?


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, I've read mixed things about them. A guy in Japan said the sound goes off at a certain volume, so one cannot really rock out to them. Audiod suggested using them with an equalizer to make em more musical. Also, I recall the soundstage isn't supposed to be the greatest, compared to some of the best closed phones in that regard._

 

That was my impression too when I tried them. They sound absolutely lovely, but quite closed. They didn't sit too comfortably on me head, maybe because they are a tad heavier than 404s.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what gave you that impression?_

 

O2s + the T1 was a bit too soft when I tried. 404s seem rather bright. My Golds are very bright too. I have new cables though, so I'll have to give it all another shot to see if the transformation they had on my dynamic rig translates to a Stax rig.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, I've read mixed things about them. A guy in Japan said the sound goes off at a certain volume, so one cannot really rock out to them. Audiod suggested using them with an equalizer to make em more musical. Also, I recall the soundstage isn't supposed to be the greatest, compared to some of the best closed phones in that regard. Hopefully I'll have a chance to hear them soon though at a meet.
 PS, I was just wondering why I haven't seen you in the Stax thread recently, figured you were one of the many Head-fi'ers who got a life, remember reading a lot of your posts while doing research. Antonyfirst (who's woodied CD3000s I recently purchased) speaks highly of you._

 

If I'm thinking of the same person you're thinking of, I think that post was due to him using the Illusion transformer box, which has a built-in volume limiter. The headphones don't have any volume limiter as far as I'm aware, and can play very loud. Considering that they're monitoring headphones, they have to be able to play very loud.

 You should definitely verify this though, perhaps with an email to a local distributor.

 As far as not posting, well, I have my reasons and some of them are personal. I have less time to post, I'm also somewhat frustrated with head-fi in general, and everything that I have to say I've already said or had it said better for me. But, I still read, and I'm still here, just in less of an aggressive capacity. I'm still getting gear, tweaking my rig, and I don't think the process will ever stop as long as I can afford it.


----------



## wobzerM

Hello guys, question here.
 Should I save up for the entry level STAX system (750 USD)?

 Is there a worthwhile audible difference between that and the HD650?


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wobzerM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should I save up for the entry level STAX system (750 USD)?_

 

Yes.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wobzerM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello guys, question here.
 Should I save up for the entry level STAX system (750 USD)?

 Is there a worthwhile audible difference between that and the HD650?_

 

Yes, you should save up for an entry level Stax rig. What makes you think you need to spend $750? You should be able to score a (used) Lambda Pro and a (used) SRM1/MK2 for $600 or less.

 The above combination is more musically satisfying to me than the HD 650 in most of the setups I have heard--and, by the way, I love the 650. The 650 also scales very nicely and I have heard it sound better than the Lambdas, but at a higher price point. In the end, as with most things here, it's a matter of taste. There is a sweet and euphonic quality to the Lambdas that I don't get from the 650. Of course, this comes with certain sacrifices (e.g., some etch, leaner bass), but I'm willing to take them.

 Full disclosure: I have not yet parted with my 650, so take from that what you will.


----------



## ashmedai

My setup was about $650, and I could easily have done it for less if I had the patience to wait a while. I'm glad I didn't though.

 It'll end up costing me more to get it the way I want it though. The noise floor on my power amp is too high at higher gain settings. That or it's 60Hz line noise...not certain which yet. Probably both.


----------



## spritzer

I never noticed any compression with the 4070 and I've been known to rock out at times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The 4070 is a b*tch to drive so something less then the Blue Hawaii may have some problems with i. I definitely didn't like the results with a T1 I had at the time, at anything but medium volume. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm really hoping Spritzer makes it down there. I want to show him my arc-bending on the 007, as I'm not sure I'm doing it right.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, someone should get him a ticket for these events._

 

I'd love to come to an NY meet sometime but there are 50/50 odds that I'm going to Cebit this year so that's enough traveling for one month.


----------



## dickbianchi

Tonite I got to give a good listen to the SRM-007t with the only stax phones I have at present, the 30 electrets. I didn't know what to expect. I've heard them sound pretty good with the srd-4 energizer behind my micrex hybrid amp, but I was in no way prepared for what I heard with the new amp. Its all positive and it's hard to describe. It's like all the sounds I've heard with the energizer came together in a perfect and steady picture.
 There's twice as much there there and it's all fleshed out. 

 It passed all my upgrade, first-time listen with new equipment, tests. Using cds I was very familiar with, it presented me with information I hadnt heard before (the "detail freak" test); using some Broadway original cast albums, I heard details of ornamentaton in the orchestration that I have not heard before and I was startled at "micro-detail", eg. in one song, I'd always heard two wind instruments lightly beneath a vocal line, but I'd never heard that they had a vibrato-ish quaver. In addtiion, voices seemed more natural, like I think they would sound live --not in a 3-d sense, there was no holographic effect-- but each had a unique character I'd heard before only when 
 demoing some crazy expensive stuff. Instruments--brass,e.g --lost the etched, overly bright quality which i think is "good sound" but not "natural sound" (the "transformation" test).

 I know that some Stax users describe them as "ruthless" -- a badly recorded record will sound bad. Among my samples are some I think of as badly recorded. I listen to them because I like the music; I ignore the defects.
 They sounded better on this setup,voices and instruments. I heard more in the same way I described in the previous paragraph; I enjoyed them more. 

 Tomorrow I will dive into symphonic music and chamber music to see what this yields. In a week or so, I should have a pair of 5nb golds and a couple weeks down the road a pair of SR Lamda pros. Ive read thousands of words on this forum describing the differences of various headsets and I really look forward to hearing what I can hear of this. Meantime Im really enjoying what I have at hand.

 Thanx for listening...

 My electrets sound better plugged into the pro outlets.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My electrets sound better plugged into the pro outlets._

 

You do know that all the outputs are serial connected and the bias has no bearing on electrets, right?


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 

 This isn't an open source project in any way like the PoorMan amp.....
_

 

Therefore the BH in any form is not a viable solution to estat shortcomings for 99.99% of Headfiers.

 One down two to go for the super duper amps.
 The 717 now seems to be the only reasonable option.

 Which one is the 2nd one to consider?
 The Woo or your modified Egmond? 
 Is the Woo an implementation of KG's all triode amp in Headwize? and is this circuit over there correct?

 Is your properly implemented Egmont or Mikhails design public domain or not?

 In any event if any of your own designs that is public domain and VT as opposed to SS how is this better or worse than the 717?

 I will have Yanni build it but I need to translate for him.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wobzerM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello guys, question here.
 Should I save up for the entry level STAX system (750 USD)?

 Is there a worthwhile audible difference between that and the HD650?_

 

If I am not mistaken according to KG, Spritzer and a few other old timers the Koss ESP-950 is better than all low end Stax'es.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do know that all the outputs are serial connected and the bias has no bearing on electrets, right?_


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Could just be that the other plug has a bad joint somewhere, or even a dirty socket. It's only a placebo assuming an ideal circuit. But...


----------



## billyearle

* Quote:


  Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
I never noticed any compression with the 4070 and I've been known to rock out at times... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


The 4070 is a b*tch to drive so something less then the Blue Hawaii may have some problems with i. I definitely didn't like the results with a T1 I had at the time, at anything but medium volume.

 

* Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 Well at least I still have a BHSE on the way, so that's good for the 4070, but do you concur it has a limited soundstage compared to some other closed phones? Is it mod-able with regard to wider cups?
 If any indication to volume limits, it's the only phone on staxes website that lists a maximum volume output. I think it was 80db. I do like to play on the loud side, though some of this is due to contending with my window noise. Still, even if I fix the window, I probably have a bad ingraned habbit with volume levels & some hearing loss already.



*I'd love to come to an NY meet sometime but there are 50/50 odds that I'm going to Cebit this year so that's enough traveling for one month.*_

 


 What's Cebit?


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's Cebit?_

 

CeBIT - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You do know that all the outputs are serial connected and the bias has no bearing on electrets, right?_

 

Nah, I didn't know that. What I did know is that the electrets could be plugged into any outlet. I tried the nomal bias plug first to make sure the amp was functioning after its long journey. I wasn't immediately impressed, gave it more time to warm up and moved if to the other plug. The "improvement" I heard may have been a question of the amp warming up, a differently positioned volume control, the way I listened...something other than the plug for sure. It certainly was not the result of a controlled experiment and it is possible that if I compared them with a fully-warmed up amp, I might not hear a difference.

 That was not the most important thing I heard.


----------



## billyearle

Monday, I got my Omega 2MK1 & 717 back. Audiod, who is an extremely knowledgeable and qualified tech, checked it out for me thoroughly, on his own time. He also kindly talked me through using a voltometer and polarity tester on my outlets and power strips, as the intructions included were cryptic in the extreme to a layman like me, and full of "fatal hazzard" warnings. I'm only sorry I can't leave him some feedback in return. Thanks again Doug!
 Thankfully, there's nothing wrong with the unit
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. He didn't even get the distortion I heard on the cd I sent him, except at unlistenably loud levels. So either I'm hard of hearing, or playing music with soft passages too loud, to compete with my window noise. Or there's some mysterious negative synergy with my system or my apartment's electricity.
 He said the amp is in great shape, and remarkably clean on the inside for a used unit. He also said the pads were a bit spongier than his, but had a good seal, and were not in need of replacing.
 I did also notice since installing the Synergistic Research Alpha Sterling silver interconnects and Noise Harvesters, as well as cleaning all my jacks, that the Omega/717 combo sounds better to me now, less "electronic/solid state" more warm and natural. Stranger still, I have to turn the volume higher now on the problem CD, to get the same distortion as before. Since upgrading the interconnects from my old Monsters, I am far less dissatisfied with the 717 than before. If I had heard it like this in the first place, I may have not ordered a Blue Hawaii (I can't imagine how long it's gonna take to pay off my credit card debt). I'm still hoping the Blue Hawaii will open up even further sonic vistas and delights
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 
 P.S. Sorry, I haven't gotten around to some a/b tests on the Harvesters, I hope to do so in the near future. I still have some pressing audio problems I'm wrestling with. With a baby boy to look after, and a wife to contend with, I have little time or energy left to experiment, so once a problem is solved I have to give priority to the unsolved ones, & hopefully enjoy some music soon!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tonite I got to give a good listen to the SRM-007t with the only stax phones I have at present, the 30 electrets. I didn't know what to expect. I've heard them sound pretty good with the srd-4 energizer behind my micrex hybrid amp, but I was in no way prepared for what I heard with the new amp. Its all positive and it's hard to describe. It's like all the sounds I've heard with the energizer came together in a perfect and steady picture.
 There's twice as much there there and it's all fleshed out. _

 

Great to hear that you enjoy my former SRM-007t.
 Never heard the SR30, but think you are in for another surprise when you get to hear it with a "real" Stax. Especially the Lambda Pro it seems you have incoming.

 Welcome to the team!


----------



## Oublie

Hi Guys,

 I'm planning to buy one of the above in the near future. Can anyone give me a general ideal of the differences in sound i'll get going from a T1W to any of these and which is truly the best bang for buck considering the GES is not much more than a 717? Is the KGSS worth the leap? BTW these will be used with sr lambdas, lambda sigs and o2 mk1s (my new toys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 I've already been informed that the 717 with have more control but be brighter than the T1w but more than one opinion always helps.

 thanks.


----------



## Faust2D

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Faust, may I ask when you say heavy curtains, do you mean doubling them up with 2 sets, or one good set does the trick for you? I could invest in a heavier rod, but the one I bought should be fine for at least one heavy pair. Do you live off a busy avenue? I know a lot of Brooklyn apts are a lot quieter with the traffic drone, but then you get the intermittent noisy A-holes. While curtain shopping on line, is there any type, keyword, or fabric I should be looking for?
 Guess I'll see you at the March 21 New York City Head-fi meet? I'm really hoping Spritzer makes it down there. I want to show him my arc-bending on the 007, as I'm not sure I'm doing it right.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, someone should get him a ticket for these events.


 Thanks ed, I already have double-paned windows, but it's just a standard thickness glass, so not great. When not listening to music, it's not really NOISY, you don't really notice it until you either listen to music like classical or other quiet music. I doubt theres much leakage since the windows are a modern metal framed type. As a renter, I don't think I could get away with defacing the Meis VanderRow type frames with calk anyway. Looks like I'll have to settle for curtains first._

 

I just got heavy cotton curtains, they were very dense and slightly larger than my window so they formed a wavy pattern that helped as well. Brooklyn is not as noisy that is true, my new appt is really quite so I do not need any of this stuff, but in my old apparent this worked well with the windows closed. My friend got these and he likes them a lot: Quiet Curtains - Your source for acoustic curtains & acoustic drapes. Lab Tested & Field Proven.

 Good luck getting rid of noise


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Guys,

 I'm planning to buy one of the above in the near future. Can anyone give me a general ideal of the differences in sound i'll get going from a T1W to any of these and which is truly the best bang for buck considering the GES is not much more than a 717? Is the KGSS worth the leap? BTW these will be used with sr lambdas, lambda sigs and o2 mk1s (my new toys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 I've already been informed that the 717 with have more control but be brighter than the T1w but more than one opinion always helps.

 thanks._

 

Search this thread. There is a lot of information on all three. I did a large comparison of the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 was the clear winner and the KGSS was the clear looser. I hear the GES is good on the Lambda series. It may be just a little underpowered for the O2.


----------



## Oublie

Thanks audiod, i have read a ton on all 3 amps but didn't see a direct comparison. I'm very surprised the kgss didnt win considering how good the kgbh is supposed to be. I'll have another look - do you remeber the title of the post by any chance?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Therefore the BH in any form is not a viable solution to estat shortcomings for 99.99% of Headfiers.

 One down two to go for the super duper amps.
 The 717 now seems to be the only reasonable option.

 Which one is the 2nd one to consider?
 The Woo or your modified Egmond? 
 Is the Woo an implementation of KG's all triode amp in Headwize? and is this circuit over there correct?

 Is your properly implemented Egmont or Mikhails design public domain or not?

 In any event if any of your own designs that is public domain and VT as opposed to SS how is this better or worse than the 717?

 I will have Yanni build it but I need to translate for him._

 

The Woo is indeed the AC-coupled amp Gilmore designed and the circuit is mostly correct on Headwise. Woo did change the PSU and make some changes (enlarged the output caps to 2uf etc.) but the basic circuit is the same. 

 The Egmont is in no way a high end amp no matter what Rudi charges for that pile of cheap parts. You can see the schematic in the DIY electrostatic amp thread in the DIY section. The design is in the public domain and very old (50's or even older). 

 The SP ES-1 (and ES-2) is a copy of the Stax SRX circuit which Stax gave away for DIY use back in 1968 with the SR-3 headphone. 

 If I were you then I'd build a simple tube amp as you may prefer the sound of tubes and the new PoorMan amp may be a good candidate. The Egmont is also simple enough for a 6-year old to build without assistance so you could have some fun with that. It's also very cheap to build.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Search this thread. There is a lot of information on all three. I did a large comparison of the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 was the clear winner and the KGSS was the clear looser. I hear the GES is good on the Lambda series. It may be just a little underpowered for the O2._

 

I have not heard the 717 with the O2 mk1 yet, I look forward to doing so. However, I did think that the O2 sounded pretty good with the KGSS DX for the short time I had it (sent in for some refurb).

 And the GES is great with the Lambda series. I also agree that I find myself wishing for just a little extra power, but as others have said in this thread and elsewhere, it's just a little bit because the GES/O2 combo still sounds pretty darn good to me. I'm a big fan of that amp.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Search this thread. There is a lot of information on all three. I did a large comparison of the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 was the clear winner and the KGSS was the clear looser. I hear the GES is good on the Lambda series. It may be just a little underpowered for the O2._

 

Could you please help me and "Oublie" find your review ?

 I did enjoy your posts as I was searching but did not find the one you are referring to. 

 I also came across some of my older posts and I was shocked. It seems that I have stated things I could not believe. There are so many things that can swing one's opinion it is unbelievable, but mood is certainly the most serious differentiator.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Woo is indeed the AC-coupled amp Gilmore designed and the circuit is mostly correct on Headwise. Woo did change the PSU and make some changes (enlarged the output caps to 2uf etc.) but the basic circuit is the same. 
 ....
 .... 
 ....

 If I were you then I'd build a simple tube amp as you may prefer the sound of tubes and the new PoorMan amp may be a good candidate. The Egmont is also simple enough for a 6-year old to build without assistance so you could have some fun with that. It's also very cheap to build._

 

Thanks !!

 Very sweat sounding alternatives. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What took you so long this time, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, hyped up on Cebit or having 2nd thoughts for the NY meeting ?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not heard the 717 with the O2 mk1 yet, I look forward to doing so. However, I did think that the O2 sounded pretty good with the KGSS DX for the short time I had it (sent in for some refurb).

 And the GES is great with the Lambda series. I also agree that I find myself wishing for just a little extra power, but as others have said in this thread and elsewhere, it's just a little bit because the GES/O2 combo still sounds pretty darn good to me. I'm a big fan of that amp._

 

I agree about the GES. I'm pretty happy with mine. At the meet last weekend the SRM-T1 with O2 Mk1 and Mk2 was a little soft sounding and not as dynamic, yet with ESP950 and SR-Lambda the T1 was pretty good.


----------



## vvanrij

4 pages ago some people (Faust2D and others) made some comments about the LNS. I would just like to thank you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I'v bought them, should be here within a week.

 Cheers!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I am not mistaken according to KG, Spritzer and a few other old timers the Koss ESP-950 is better than all low end Stax'es._

 

Certainly run from a Stax amp it gives phones like the current Lambdas a run for their money. I generally prefer various Lambdas for classical music because they give a bit more detail than the 950. 

 These choices are a matter of taste and synergy with the rest of your system. Even older phones such as the SRXIII have qualities which make them interesting on occasion even against my 007A and Sigma/404. Different phones bring out different aspects of a recording. 

 We tend to discuss phones as if only had one. Yet most of us have a s-load of cans which we obviously cannot listen to at the same time. We keep the second and third bests for a change of pace.

 This is one thing that distinguishes having headphone's from having speakers, i.e. that we have multiple set-ups. I mean how many of us have multiple speaker set-ups to change over for a bit of variety.


----------



## John Buchanan

You are gonna like the LNS.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you please help me and "Oublie" find your review ?

 I did enjoy your posts as I was searching but did not find the one you are referring to. 

 I also came across some of my older posts and I was shocked. It seems that I have stated things I could not believe. There are so many things that can swing one's opinion it is unbelievable, but mood is certainly the most serious differentiator._

 

The KGSS and 717 don’t sound anything alike. The 717 and 007t are quite close. The 717 sounds like a good tube amp with better top, bottom and dynamics. It’s funny that when I tried the new 727II I didn’t like it at all (veiled and bland). The 717 has a more laid back sound (especially in the midrange) than the KGSS. The 717 has a considerably larger soundstage and does a better job of creating the environment of large acoustic recordings. I think that people that listen to a lot of Pop music with typical flat presentation may like the KGSS better. When you listen to the 717 you hear delicate low level details and ambiance that the KGSS seems to mask. One time when I was listening to the KGSS I thought I had my preamp in mono but it wasn’t. I have been extremely happy with the 717/O2 combo.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Faust2D* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got heavy cotton curtains, they were very dense and slightly larger than my window so they formed a wavy pattern that helped as well. Brooklyn is not as noisy that is true, my new appt is really quite so I do not need any of this stuff, but in my old apparent this worked well with the windows closed. My friend got these and he likes them a lot: Quiet Curtains - Your source for acoustic curtains & acoustic drapes. Lab Tested & Field Proven.

 Good luck getting rid of noise 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

 Thanks Faust, for comparison, did you get to "hear" your friend's acoustic curtains, or is he a long-distance friend? Trying to decide if it'd be worth the extra investment vs. the regular kind you have. I checked the website and they are certainly a LOT more expensive than regular heavy cotton, but if the noise isolation is MUCH better, it may be worth the expense. I'm really tempted, but am over my head in audio debt already.


----------



## dannyandelyse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Search this thread. There is a lot of information on all three. I did a large comparison of the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS using the O2mk1. The 717 was the clear winner and the KGSS was the clear looser. I hear the GES is good on the Lambda series. It may be just a little underpowered for the O2._

 

Have to respectfully go with the polar opposite. Have owned long term KGSS with big blackgates, 717, and three other assorted Stat amps at the same time. Played with 02 Mk1, the KGSS was more transparent and impactful with less grain than the 717. Liked the synergy of that combo after long term listening and sold the 717. 

 Dan

 FWIW


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dannyandelyse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have to respectfully go with the polar opposite. Have owned long term KGSS with big blackgates, 717, and three other assorted Stat amps at the same time. Played with 02 Mk1, the KGSS was more transparent and impactful with less grain than the 717. Liked the synergy of that combo after long term listening and sold the 717. 

 Dan

 FWIW_

 

I really wanted to like the KGSS. When I sold it I took a big $ hit. Most of the material I used for listening was classical, jazz and vocal on vinyl.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The KGSS and 717 don’t sound anything alike. The 717 and 007t are quite close. The 717 sounds like a good tube amp with better top, bottom and dynamics. It’s funny that when I tried the new 727II I didn’t like it at all (veiled and bland)._

 

This is quite interesting. A friend has kindly lent me one of his pairs of O2 mk1s and a 007t and the combination is not as soft as I remember, even with my soft-sounding Northstar as the source. I feared choosing the option of the 007t vs. the 717 to take home might have lost me the benefit of solid state but I'm not feeling so after a couple of hours of listening. The sound doesn't make me think of tubes at all really, it's just lovely. The only thing I feel is lacking is a bit of punch with some types of music.

 Now, of course, I'm completely ruined and I'm going to have to buy this rig from him.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is quite interesting. A friend has kindly lent me one of his pairs of O2 mk1s and a 007t and the combination is not as soft as I remember, even with my soft-sounding Northstar as the source. I feared choosing the option of the 007t vs. the 717 to take home might have lost me the benefit of solid state but I'm not feeling so after a couple of hours of listening. The sound doesn't make me think of tubes at all really, it's just lovely. The only thing I feel is lacking is a bit of punch with some types of music.

 Now, of course, I'm completely ruined and I'm going to have to buy this rig from him._

 

I agree that the 007t has a nice sound with the O2 (in my case the 007tII), but it's too polite for my taste. However, I am surprised that you think the north start is soft-sounding. I think it is musical, but not soft. For example, compared to the ECD-1, it packs more of a punch. Which DACs do you think are less soft than the north star. One of the reasons I'm interested is I'm trying to decide which DAC to keep (ECD-1 or north star).


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree that the 007t has a nice sound with the O2 (in my case the 007tII), but it's too polite for my taste. However, I am surprised that you think the north start is soft-sounding. I think it is musical, but not soft. For example, compared to the ECD-1, it packs more of a punch. Which DACs do you think are less soft than the north star. One of the reasons I'm interested is I'm trying to decide which DAC to keep (ECD-1 or north star)._

 

I should add that I'm completely crap at describing sound. I went from the harder Lavry DA-10 to the Northstar, an incremental improvement, but a move from clinical pro-audio device to audiophile one (so by that I'd pick anything pro-audio as less soft). I'm going by my early impressions of the Northstar though. I added a basically decent OFC power cable to the Northstar and it's livened things up nicely. I agree with your "too polite" description. I want more aggression occasionally. Female vocals are lovely. Rock and some jazz doesn't quite have the delivery it needs. One of my experiments will be to see what difference the 007t makes with my SR5NBs as they are somewhat more agressive, if their sound is a little lightweight (a little like the Grado HF-1s I tried today).

 Edit: Ignore that stupid comment I made about not making me think of tubes at all, I was being seduced by Eva Cassidy at the time and was thinking of her voice.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should add that I'm completely crap at describing sound. I went from the harder Lavry DA-10 to the Northstar, an incremental improvement, but a move from clinical pro-audio device to audiophile one (so by that I'd pick anything pro-audio as less soft). I'm going by my early impressions of the Northstar though. I added a basically decent OFC power cable to the Northstar and it's livened things up nicely. I agree with your "too polite" description._

 

Thanks, that's very helpful to me. I went from the harder DAC1 to the north star so your description now makes complete sense to me (far from a crap description
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should add that I'm completely crap at describing sound. I went from the harder Lavry DA-10 to the Northstar, an incremental improvement, but a move from clinical pro-audio device to audiophile one (so by that I'd pick anything pro-audio as less soft). I'm going by my early impressions of the Northstar though. I added a basically decent OFC power cable to the Northstar and it's livened things up nicely. I agree with your "too polite" description. I want more aggression occasionally. Female vocals are lovely. Rock and some jazz doesn't quite have the delivery it needs. . 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have found the Lavry DA10>SRM 717> O2mk1 a very good combo with the majority of rock, alt rock, folk and bluegrass that I listen to. edging out the Pico.I recently added silver IC's ( signal cable) and they further brought the O2 mk1 out of the dark. To my ears not so analalytical...but euphonic. For punchy/dynamic bass...there is the srd7mk2 or pro combos
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 007t amps I have read play with the O2mk2 better.

 Currawong, have you put your Compass into the mix? I have followed the compass thread and overall the audiogd threads...btw have enjoyed them very much. Although you felt that the Compass ( being under $300) to be about 85% of the lavry...the different settings/HDAM's might work for you. I am looking into adding another DAC and the audio-gd Ref 3 has been an interest.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I did also notice since installing the Synergistic Research Alpha Sterling silver interconnects and Noise Harvesters, as well as cleaning all my jacks, that the Omega/717 combo sounds better to me now, less "electronic/solid state" more warm and natural. Stranger still, I have to turn the volume higher now on the problem CD, to get the same distortion as before. Since upgrading the interconnects from my old Monsters, I am far less dissatisfied with the 717 than before. If I had heard it like this in the first place, I may have not ordered a Blue Hawaii (I can't imagine how long it's gonna take to pay off my credit card debt). I'm still hoping the Blue Hawaii will open up even further sonic vistas and delights
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 
 P.S. Sorry, I haven't gotten around to some a/b tests on the Harvesters, I hope to do so in the near future. I still have some pressing audio problems I'm wrestling with. With a baby boy to look after, and a wife to contend with, I have little time or energy left to experiment, so once a problem is solved I have to give priority to the unsolved ones, & hopefully enjoy some music soon!_

 

I used Monster Cable M950(?) interconnects extensively for several years and found that a shift to various unsheilded silver cables was a big improvement. 

 As regards the Noise Harvesters, I found them a big help to the sound of a system even after cables and other tweaks. I am continually impressed by their ability to sweeten out a system, something which is especially important with many stat phones since they tend to pick up everything including harshness. What I hear from them is sweeter/warmer tonal qualities, more ambience which often translates into a a beefier bottom end, I suspect because a lot of resonant sound is in the lower frequency range. Phones like the Lambdas and SRXIII in particular become much easier on the ears.

 I have pretty much settled on 2 Harvesters in a system power strip. One is good, 2 are better and 3 don't seem to change the situation much. I suspect that you could put lots all around the house to some benefit, but if you don't want to spend the dough, just move a pair to wherever you are listening, or watching.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have found the Lavry DA10>SRM 717> O2mk1 a very good combo with the majority of rock, alt rock, folk and bluegrass that I listen to. edging out the Pico.I recently added silver IC's ( signal cable) and they further brought the O2 mk1 out of the dark. To my ears not so analalytical...but euphonic. For punchy/dynamic bass...there is the srd7mk2 or pro combos
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 007t amps I have read play with the O2mk2 better.

 Currawong, have you put your Compass into the mix? I have followed the compass thread and overall the audiogd threads...btw have enjoyed them very much. Although you felt that the Compass ( being under $300) to be about 85% of the lavry...the different settings/HDAM's might work for you. I am looking into adding another DAC and the audio-gd Ref 3 has been an interest._

 

Yes. I used my friend's 717/O2 combo to pit the Compass's built-in DAC against the Benchmark DAC1. It's a tricky thing with the Compass, as the Moon HDAM can be the nicest, throwing such as nice soundstage, but some of that is from the mids being slightly recessed, so like the Stax combo we're discussing, it doesn't work with all music.

 If the Audio-gd Reference 3 or Reference 1 can match the Nakamichi Dragon DAC I had the chance to try, which was the first I heard in recent memory that delivered piano truly realistically (uber-expensive Esoteric and other CD players excepted) they will be an awesome paring with Stax gear.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used Monster Cable M950(?) interconnects extensively for several years and found that a shift to various unsheilded silver cables was a big improvement. 

 As regards the Noise Harvesters, I found them a big help to the sound of a system even after cables and other tweaks. I am continually impressed by their ability to sweeten out a system, something which is especially important with many stat phones since they tend to pick up everything including harshness. What I hear from them is sweeter/warmer tonal qualities, more ambience which often translates into a a beefier bottom end, I suspect because a lot of resonant sound is in the lower frequency range. Phones like the Lambdas and SRXIII in particular become much easier on the ears.

 I have pretty much settled on 2 Harvesters in a system power strip. One is good, 2 are better and 3 don't seem to change the situation much. I suspect that you could put lots all around the house to some benefit, but if you don't want to spend the dough, just move a pair to wherever you are listening, or watching._

 

 Glad to hear someone seconding the benefits of good silver cables to an Omega system. I think even many of the people who may be skeptical over the untried Harvesters endorse the improvements of silver cables. FWIW, I have 2 power strips to run my system, and 1 Harvester in each strip, as opposed to your 2 in one strip. So I wonder if I could still benefit from more. Admittedly I still haven't tested em alone, but I know my Omegas are sounding better. I probably won't buy any more right away, since I need to invest in heavy curtains (possibly a $850+ investment if "sound-isolating"), as well as catch up on the debt already incurred.


----------



## billyearle

Since bending the arcs outward on my Omega2MK1s to improve sound & comfort, I cannot get rid of hearing & sometimes feeling my pulse in my left ear. It's noticeable during quiet passages and between tracks or notes. I've been endlessly tinkering with variations on the arc, as well as pad placement. I know with the variations in headsize, this is a tough one to figure out for someone else. I fear this could ruin the whole O2 experience for me, just as things were coming together in regards to sound quality overall
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 
 Could new earpads remedy this, or getting the whole headset replaced? ...or just getting another pair of O2s?! The earpads are somewhat worn & spongy, but I was told they were not at the point of needing replacement (this assement was not made in connection to my pulse problem however). 
 Better yet, are there some guidlines to pad placement I may be overlooking, or tips on the finer points of arc bending regarding this issue? I tend to have the flat part of the D-shaped opening directly behind my ears vertically. & I have read Spritzer's original thread on arc bending. I also tried lifting the cord away from my chest, as it does pick up vibrations. 
 Incidentally I recently noticed also hearing my pulse in the left ear while wearing earplugs. I don't have the problem with my other phones. 
 Thanks for any ideas (as I don't yet think the HD800 & Zana Deux will be able to replace O2/BHSE).


----------



## The Monkey

The arcs are a total pain in the ass.

 It sounds like you're getting too much of a seal. Have you tried rotating the cups forward a bit so that the D is a bit under your ears instead of directly behind them?

 EDIT: By the way, billy, could you or someone else provide a link to the arc bending thread?


----------



## antonyfirst

Today, after some intense searching and some waiting, I received my pair of original SR-X Mk3 Professional. I have done a quick listening and these share many, many similarities in sound with my former pair modded by Spritzer. Birgir surely did a wonderful job with his DIY work.

 This said, to me these seem different for a number of reasons. I didn't own the two models (diy and original) at the same time, but the original Pro seem smaller and lighter. I'd like to compare the diameter of the baffle with someone owning an SRX normal bias (which was used as housing for the DIY pro versions).
 The headband is different too: while the DIY version used a single metal band covered in leather (which started to become painful after a while), the original version has two metal bands, distanced and covered with the black leather.

 The overall light weight of these headphones makes it possible to use them as bedside headphones, being much more comfortable in this role than the SR-003 (with their squeaks and the strong ear pressure).

 Have to run now, will post more findings in 6-7 hours after I get back home.


----------



## Currawong

I plugged my SR5NB "Golds" into the 007t. Very nice! I'm still amazed by what the little re-boxed portable amp can do with them though. I noticed the other day, if you have a complete seal and press on the cans, the bass drops out entirely until you switch off and un-plug for a couple of minutes.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I plugged my SR5NB "Golds" into the 007t. Very nice!_

 

Hmm... so did I, a set that arrived today. Same reaction!


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headband is different too: while the DIY version used a single metal band covered in leather (which started to become painful after a while), the original version has two metal bands, distanced and covered with the black leather.

 The overall light weight of these headphones makes it possible to use them as bedside headphones, being much more comfortable in this role than the SR-003 (with their squeaks and the strong ear pressure)._

 

I think there is certainly some variance in the SR-X III frame. My normal-bias SR-X III has the two-piece headband and is not clampy at all, but there's no evidence of it having not been the original headband it came with from the factory.


----------



## antonyfirst

Nice hint. Can you measure the diameter of the baffle? I still think these are smaller than my former pair, but I'd like to find some evidence, in either sense.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today, after some intense searching and some waiting, I received my pair of original SR-X Mk3 Professional. I have done a quick listening and these share many, many similarities in sound with my former pair modded by Spritzer. Birgir surely did a wonderful job with his DIY work.

 This said, to me these seem different for a number of reasons. I didn't own the two models (diy and original) at the same time, but the original Pro seem smaller and lighter. I'd like to compare the diameter of the baffle with someone owning an SRX normal bias (which was used as housing for the DIY pro versions).
 The headband is different too: while the DIY version used a single metal band covered in leather (which started to become painful after a while), the original version has two metal bands, distanced and covered with the black leather.

 The overall light weight of these headphones makes it possible to use them as bedside headphones, being much more comfortable in this role than the SR-003 (with their squeaks and the strong ear pressure).

 Have to run now, will post more findings in 6-7 hours after I get back home._

 

You think yours are nice, you should try the Smegma Pros. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Whatever happened to that project you were going to have done, last July around the same time I was doing it?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice hint. Can you measure the diameter of the baffle? I still think these are smaller than my former pair, but I'd like to find some evidence, in either sense._

 

I'll see if i can measure them tonight. I know the pads hang off the edge a little, but i thought that was normal.


----------



## antonyfirst

Cheers Eric. They seem smaller than my former pair but it might well be that I don't remember things correctly. My parents, though, saw it and had the same impression.


----------



## The Monkey

Just fyi to the participants in this thread, I have posted a poll asking whether there is support for a separate planar forum. I am not posting here to campaign one way or the other, I would just appreciate it if people would vote. A large sample size would be useful.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f11/po...-forum-410968/


----------



## ericj

Now that they have arrived, I am finally comfortable really talking about them. 

 Bask in my superior cheap bastardry, for i posses the $150 ESP-950. Complete with the camera bag, E/90 amp, extension cord, branded cheap right-angle RCA cable, cheap koss wall wart, and manual. 

 Why is it that nobody ever remembers that the earcups come off these frames at the push of a button? they were stuffed into the bag in a very awkward fashion. 

 And no battery pack. Bah. How many alkaline cells in the original battery pack? I wonder if i should see about one of these li-po packs with matching charger that are used for remote control toy cars and the like.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Just curious, like to hear from you guys at what volume you listen to your music on the Stax, esp those with the 717 + O2 combo.

 On my dynamic setup, volume knob tends to stay at 1 level most of the time. I've been listening to the 717 + O2 for a few days now and I find myself having to readjust the volume knob - Jazz at 9-10 o'clock and Classical at 12 o'clock, the latter tends to sound pretty far away as compared to my dynamic amps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that they have arrived, I am finally comfortable really talking about them. 

 Bask in my superior cheap bastardry, for i posses the $150 ESP-950. Complete with the camera bag, E/90 amp, extension cord, branded cheap right-angle RCA cable, cheap koss wall wart, and manual. 

 Why is it that nobody ever remembers that the earcups come off these frames at the push of a button? they were stuffed into the bag in a very awkward fashion. 

 And no battery pack. Bah. How many alkaline cells in the original battery pack? I wonder if i should see about one of these li-po packs with matching charger that are used for remote control toy cars and the like._

 

Mine takes 6 C-cell batteries for 9v.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The arcs are a total pain in the ass.

 It sounds like you're getting too much of a seal. Have you tried rotating the cups forward a bit so that the D is a bit under your ears instead of directly behind them?

 EDIT: By the way, billy, could you or someone else provide a link to the arc bending thread?_

 

 Vincent, the search engine is down, but currently I can narrow down a link to the original arc thread to ROUGHLY February 1st in this thread. Spritzer gave a link to it in response to a question of mine on arc bending. I know it was at least before Feb 8th, as that's when I first mentioned having bent the arcs in a post. 
 &Thanks, I had tried the flat of the D angled below/behind my ears too, but still the pulse. (or did you mean the CURVE of the D under my ear???) Sometimes I almost feel I'm making progress eradicating it, but then it's still there. In my frustration, I feel like I'm in a maze, and keep going the wrong way, and am just missing the correct path so to speak. I can't remember for sure, but strangely, in spite of other problems pre-bend, there was no pulse when the phones were too tight. But when I loosen them, the pulse gets somewhat fainter, but not enough. arg. I think a lot of people used to die in mazes that did have a way out. confused & exhausted,... must stay strong, Robin.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine takes 6 C-cell batteries for 9v._

 

Thanks. 

 And come to think of it, I think i have a li-po pack around here somewhere that outputs something in the neighborhood of 9v. One of those emergency power supply things for cell phones and whatnot, with a variable output.

 Edit: And, two observations. 

 1: Most ESP/950 pictures I've seen show black grilles w/ a red badge on each yoke. I have no badges, and the grilles have a flat reddish paintjob. 

 2: They seem to squeal a bit. This might end up meaning that i send them to koss for warranty repair, which is annoying, but i can still hardly complain for the price.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, like to hear from you guys at what volume you listen to your music on the Stax, esp those with the 717 + O2 combo.

 On my dynamic setup, volume knob tends to stay at 1 level most of the time. I've been listening to the 717 + O2 for a few days now and I find myself having to readjust the volume knob - Jazz at 9-10 o'clock and Classical at 12 o'clock, the latter tends to sound pretty far away as compared to my dynamic amps._

 

My source is the Lynx2 B, driving the SRS-717 + O2 Mk1 combo.

 This is a professional PCI card with analog XLR as well as digital AES/EBU inputs and outputs including one stereo input for recording and 3 stereo outputs, all at a max 200khz, 32 bit sampling rate. and at 0.1 pico jitter.

 When using the XLR (analog) outputs to drive the SRS-717 there is an additional 10 db gain over that of the RCA analog output for a true maximum of 117 db. (to emulate the 120 db concert hall live performance dynamics with a 30 db studio background noise and 90 db full classical orchestra dynamic range).

 Each of the 6 mono output channels has 4 individual volume controls one for bass band, one for the low midrange band, one for the high mid range band and one for the treble band.
 With all volume controls set at max on the two channels driving the 717 and the program material coming out from either Sound Forge 9, or Wave Lab 5 with Izotope Ozone 4 plug-in and without any processing applied the Wave Lab master volume and Lynx channel master volume controls are set to the maximum that will not incur any instantaneous peak clipping during the entire track as that is monitored by peak visual indicators. Then the SRS-717 produces full body dynamics in the range from 11 to 2 o'clock (depending on the listener preferences and mood) before going into clipping itself.

 It is important to note that on almost all commercial Cd's the Wave Lab master control must be lowered from its default position and that the Lynx master volume be set at -14 db or -4 db if RCA is used (when RCA is used 10 db is automatically subtracted) if all program clipping is to be eliminated.
 That gives you an idea of how limited the dynamic range is on standard commercial Cd's. Fortunately even with para-graphic equalization, multi band compression and expansion, puncher, spatial, echo and reverb effects applied simultaneously one can keep the program material reasonably well within clipping limits.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My source is the Lynx2 B, driving the SRS-717 + O2 Mk1 combo.

 This is a professional PCI card with analog XLR as well as digital AES/EBU inputs and outputs including one stereo input for recording and 3 stereo outputs, all at a max 200khz, 32 bit sampling rate. and at 0.1 pico jitter.

 When using the XLR (analog) outputs to drive the SRS-717 there is an additional 10 db gain over that of the RCA analog output for a true maximum of 117 db. (to emulate the 120 db concert hall live performance dynamics with a 30 db studio background noise and 90 db full classical orchestra dynamic range).

 Each of the 6 mono output channels has 4 individual volume controls one for bass band, one for the low midrange band, one for the high mid range band and one for the treble band.
 With all volume controls set at max on the two channels driving the 717 and the program material coming out from either Sound Forge 9, or Wave Lab 5 with Izotope Ozone 4 plug-in and without any processing applied the Wave Lab master volume and Lynx channel master volume controls are set to the maximum that will not incur any instantaneous peak clipping during the entire track as that is monitored by peak visual indicators. Then the SRS-717 produces full body dynamics in the range from 11 to 2 o'clock (depending on the listener preferences and mood) before going into clipping itself.

 It is important to note that on almost all commercial Cd's the Wave Lab master control must be lowered from its default position and that the Lynx master volume be set at -14 db or -4 db if RCA is used (when RCA is used 10 db is automatically subtracted) if all program clipping is to be eliminated.
 That gives you an idea of how limited the dynamic range is on standard commercial Cd's. Fortunately even with para-graphic equalization, multi band compression and expansion, puncher, spatial, echo and reverb effects applied simultaneously one can keep the program material reasonably well within clipping limits._

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation. What amazes me is how much head room and space for musical dynamics - listening to Earl Wild's Tschaikovsky Piano Concerto No. 1 now, and I'm listening not just the music, but the hall in which it's recorded in, can literally hear the depth of the stage, as well as the space between the duet between the cello & piano the 2nd movement.

 I was told that these recordings were made sometime back with 3 mics, the strings tend sound a bit dry, but the overall experience is almost like sitting in the concert hall in which it was recorded.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the detailed explanation. What amazes me is how much head room and space for musical dynamics - listening to Earl Wild's Tschaikovsky Piano Concerto No. 1 now, and I'm listening not just the music, but the hall in which it's recorded in, can literally hear the depth of the stage, as well as the space between the duet between the cello & piano the 2nd movement.

 I was told that these recordings were made sometime back with 3 mics, the strings tend sound a bit dry, but the overall experience is almost like sitting in the concert hall in which it was recorded._

 

This Cd is clearly not like the ones I was referring to and it is almost as good as the real thing. In addition it can almost be processed to a very good binaural variation using post mastering software.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headband is different too: while the DIY version used a single metal band covered in leather (which started to become painful after a while), the original version has two metal bands, distanced and covered with the black leather._

 

I never saw the arc fitted to your set as Kai supplied it with the housings coming from one of my sets. I've never seen any variation in the six of the earcups and I doubt that is the case as all the phones use the same driver, which is a very snug fit. It's the same driver chassis as has been in use since 1971 when the SR-5 was introduced. For the record, the earpads are slightly larger then the metal rings they are glued to. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1: Most ESP/950 pictures I've seen show black grilles w/ a red badge on each yoke. I have no badges, and the grilles have a flat reddish paintjob. 

 2: They seem to squeal a bit. This might end up meaning that i send them to koss for warranty repair, which is annoying, but i can still hardly complain for the price._

 

Can you post some pics of them? I had a couple of very early sets here once and they looked similar to what you are describing. The ESP950 has been in production for almost 20 years now so no wonder there have been some changes. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...When using the XLR (analog) outputs to drive the SRS-717 there is an additional 10 db gain over that of the RCA analog output..._

 

You should only get some extra 3dB from switching to XLR from RCA as voltage is doubled, thus doubling the gain.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..... 


 You should only get some extra 3dB from switching to XLR from RCA as voltage is doubled, thus doubling the gain._

 

This is true and can be confirmed. You only need to take the SR-717 from 12 to 1 o'clock when going from XLR to RCA input. However the source (Lynx B) suffers a 10db signal to noise degradation when configured as RCA.

 Spritzer, do you thing that a tube amp would take some of the dryness on the strings away?
 and do you think that software DSP that can selectively attenuate the even or odd harmonics can make the 717 sound like a tube amp?

 Could you please help me locate the new PoorMan electrostatic amp schematic? All I could find was a discussion on a modification of an old Dynaco.


----------



## spritzer

You can tailor a tube amp to sound like anything you want (same goes for SS) but the 717 sounds like a good valve amp to my ears (warm and forgiving) so I would look for the faults somewhere else. Try an external DAC or something like that as while soundcards can have great chips they are always tied to that beyond horrible computer PSU and are fitted with cheap and nasty output stages. 

Here is the link to the PoorMan discussion though it is still being worked on.


----------



## Oublie

So i've read all the info on the different O2 rated amps and i'm near the crunch of buying one it looks like the 717 is the most highly rated and would probably keep me happy until a blue hawaii surfaces. 

 What can I expect in terms of improvements between using the O2 mk1 on the T1W and the 717? Some folks have said that the o2 can be dark sounding without a decent amp and although I don't consider them to be dark the T1W does need the volume set to between 10 and 11 to run them at a decent level. They remind me of my normal bias lambda's crossed with with the signatures. I do think though that the treble is a little recessed compared with them however, that may be due to the 'splash' that some report on the lambdas or is it that the t1 doesn't drive the o2's well enough. 

 After all that blather what i'm really trying to ask is will the 717 be a substantial jump in quality over the T1W , should I buy one and will i be happier?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After all that blather what i'm really trying to ask is will the 717 be a substantial jump in quality over the T1W , should I buy one and will i be happier? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The T1 series are rated to put out 300 volts max. The 007t is 340 volts. The 717 is 450 volts. I have all three and love my T1W on all my stat phones but the O2. The 007t is much better, but the 717 is the King of the available Stax amps for the O2. You can expect almost everything to be better. You should hear deeper tighter bass, crisper and more detailed highs, more dynamic, better low level detail, blacker background and a nice big soundstage. Go for it!


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The T1 series are rated to put out 300 volts max. The 007t is 340 volts. The 717 is 450 volts. I have all three and love my T1W on all my stat phones but the O2. The 007t is much better, but the 717 is the King of the available Stax amps for the O2. You can expect almost everything to be better. You should hear deeper tighter bass, crisper and more detailed highs, more dynamic, better low level detail, blacker background and a nice big soundstage. Go for it!_

 

Agree. I've compared the O2 on the 007T and 717, and I really much prefer the 717, bass on the 717 has a bit more punch.. I just find the 007T a bit too polite for my taste....


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can tailor a tube amp to sound like anything you want (same goes for SS) but the 717 sounds like a good valve amp to my ears (warm and forgiving) so I would look for the faults somewhere else. Try an external DAC or something like that as while soundcards can have great chips they are always tied to that beyond horrible computer PSU and are fitted with cheap and nasty output stages. 

Here is the link to the PoorMan discussion though it is still being worked on._

 

Thanks for the link.

 I am happy to see that you confirm the ability of software to shape things. I am also happy to know that my 717 sounds like a good tube amp.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not have any complaint from my PC card, I was just referring to the comment "LyricalMoments" made for the slightly dry strings. He does have a Benchmark 1 so this is not his reason for hearing some slight dryness.

 Now I am wondering whether to build a VT amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Well I have to read the thread you pointed first.

 What is your opinion on pure silver wire (99.99%) re-cabling for the O2? 
 Some people reported it improves the sound and brightens up a bit the O2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did not have any complaint from my PC card, I was just referring to the comment "LyricalMoments" made for the slightly dry strings. He does have a Benchmark 1 so this is not his reason for hearing some slight dryness._

 

I took it was for you, sorry about that. The Benchmark is a poor source to my ears and it doesn't deserve all the praise it is regularly showered with. I much prefer the more "natural" approach to sound many vintage and NOS dac's take though sadly most overdo it, being too dense and warm. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is your opinion on pure silver wire (99.99%) re-cabling for the O2? 
 Some people reported it improves the sound and brightens up a bit the O2._

 

I'm not aware of anybody who has changed the cable on the O2's but many of us use silver interconnects. I have played around with silver cables on Stax headphones and dropped it after two prototypes as there wasn't any real gain to my ears (different yes but not really better) and the comfort was terrible.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 You should only get some extra 3dB from switching to XLR from RCA as voltage is doubled, thus doubling the gain._

 

When I was first replying to your post I encountered a failure and had to rewrite it. In the process I forgot to ask you this:

 Doubling voltage results in quadrupling power. If db is related to sound pressure level then a 6 db theoretical increase is available. Is this applicable to electrostatic headphones as it is in dynamics or not? 
 can you explain?


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is your opinion on pure silver wire (99.99%) re-cabling for the O2? 
 Some people reported it improves the sound and brightens up a bit the O2._

 

you mean changing the stock cable or IC?


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The T1 series are rated to put out 300 volts max. The 007t is 340 volts. The 717 is 450 volts. I have all three and love my T1W on all my stat phones but the O2. The 007t is much better, but the 717 is the King of the available Stax amps for the O2. You can expect almost everything to be better. You should hear deeper tighter bass, crisper and more detailed highs, more dynamic, better low level detail, blacker background and a nice big soundstage. Go for it!_

 

I am in the process of trying a few different amps, the Kimik 007t II etc. Apparently, I have recently read, that EAR make a version of the HP4 for electrostats? I am currently happy with my T1 as the improvements of the amps I have tried for me are marginal and do not warrant the cost, if the O2 were any more detailed from an amp my eardrums would fall out! 

 Short of a BH I think I will stay where I am for the time being.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you mean changing the stock cable or IC?_

 

I mean the stock cable. I may be wrong and I have thought it was the stock cable when in reality it was the interconnect. I read this recently and I think it was in the Stax thread so I am searching to see if I can find it.


----------



## SR-71Panorama

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Apparently, I have recently read, that EAR make a version of the HP4 for electrostats?_

 

Link please


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SR-71Panorama* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Link please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am not, I think, allowed to link under forum rules but here is a direct quote,

 "EAR's HP4 headphone amp had still not been unpacked! When TP took it out of the box and put it on the marble counter, I saw that it was much larger and heavier than I expected. The thick faceplate was polished to a mirror finish. TP presented the features on the headphone amp of which he was very proud, such as the balanced inputs, the dual impedance headphone outputs, the "Power Amp" switch that mutes speakers and the massive construction. The HP4 retails for about $3500 US. A custom version for electrostatic headphones is available for about $5000 US. 

 I assume TP is Tim de Paravicini?


----------



## SR-71Panorama

That must be him, yeah. Maybe its been quietly available from authorized EAR dealers this whole time? Interesting...

 Although today's price would probably be +$8k I'd wager (!)


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Benchmark is a poor source to my ears and it doesn't deserve all the praise it is regularly showered with._

 

Wow! Do I agree with that statement.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you post some pics of them? I had a couple of very early sets here once and they looked similar to what you are describing. The ESP950 has been in production for almost 20 years now so no wonder there have been some changes._

 

I took some pictures last night but i haven't had time to scale them down. 

http://166.70.233.190/IMG_0036.JPG with poor focus and accurate color representation
http://166.70.233.190/IMG_0035.JPG for a sharper version with color brought to extremes by the flash

 The earpad was off so i could use some tape to pull hairs out of the foam, which turned into just removing the foam because it was crumbling. 

 The arc lacks the embossed "KOSS" branding that my A/250 has, and has a gold "Koss" badge where the A/250 arc has the white "A/250" badge.

 Edit: Hmm, i really should clean my keyboard.


----------



## spritzer

Thanks for the photo's. Time to send them back to Koss and get a new set for 150$... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I was first replying to your post I encountered a failure and had to rewrite it. In the process I forgot to ask you this:

 Doubling voltage results in quadrupling power. If db is related to sound pressure level then a 6 db theoretical increase is available. Is this applicable to electrostatic headphones as it is in dynamics or not? 
 can you explain?_

 

You are correct, my brain is still fried after the 19 hours at work yesterday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 3db figure came from my rattled brain confusing the power and voltage db figures.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headband is different too: while the DIY version used a single metal band covered in leather (which started to become painful after a while), the original version has two metal bands, distanced and covered with the black leather._

 

Hmmm, then some of us don't remember correctly.
 I remember the SR-X/MK3 Pro (the pair I sold you) as having a leather headband with two parallel metal bands in it.

 Not the best pictures, but its all I can provide:


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the photo's. Time to send them back to Koss and get a new set for 150$... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, I'm a little disappointed, but you can't be a cheap person without being prepared for the eventuality that something you buy might turn out to be in horrible condition. And really all this means is a week or two more delay. 

 I kinda like the red grilles. Kinda. I'll like more having them not squeal at me though.


----------



## bjarnetv

so... i got back my float electrostats yesterday, after half a years "storage", and they sounded just as awesome as i remembered.

 i promised myself i would leave them alone for a week or so; giving me some time to reaquaint myself with them, getting used to how they sound before modding them.

 turns out i have no self restraint... 





 i had previously modded them, using aproximately 1kg of blutack, but this was before my ortho modding days, and i didnt know how important it was to make an airtight baffle seal, so the bluetack and stock foam mounts had to go.






 i made a new edge to mount the drivers on using bitumen, added a thin bluetack gasket before sticking the driver on top. 






 i then did the same on the other side of the driver, sealing it to the outer grill, making sure there were no leaks anywhere.






 the drivers are now tightly clamped in place, and the bitumen has added some much needed mass to the plastic housing.

 they now sound a lot more balanced and natural; the bass also tightened up considerably. more slam, less bloat.
 cant really give any more detailed description yet though, as i just did the mod, and need some more listening time.

 i really recommend all jecklin owners to _at least_ perform this mod on their electrostatic floats, as it really improves the sound... its also quite easy and _almost_ risk free. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 next up: trying to make some huge, cheese-wedge shaped leather pads.


----------



## vvanrij

Hi,

 I got my Lambda Nova Signatures today, all I can say is WOW. I never expected them to sound so much better then the 404's. Its much more organic, natural sounding, balanced, but not boring in the least. I really really like it! Thanks for all the recommendations.

 Now a stupid question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, how am I supposed to change earpads on the Stax headphones? I did a search but didn't find anything (sorry), they come with some sort of selfadhesive tape formed in the shape of the earpads.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now a stupid question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, how am I supposed to change earpads on the Stax headphones? I did a search but didn't find anything (sorry), they come with some sort of selfadhesive tape formed in the shape of the earpads._

 

On my normal-bias lambda, i basically had to peel the old pads off with the help of a butter knife or something. They really didn't want to come off - left behind some vinyl. Then i had to scrape off the old doubletape and adhesive. Cleaned it up with denatured ethyl alcohol on a rag.

 Oh. Remove the slabs from the headband first. Carefully.


----------



## mark_h

Is it usual for stax to get better with burn in, mine appear to be doing so but I am not sure if this is familiarity or brain burn in (lol) they seem to be getting smoother, more liquid with better, deeper imaging? The bass seems more defined also.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, like to hear from you guys at what volume you listen to your music on the Stax, esp those with the 717 + O2 combo.

 On my dynamic setup, volume knob tends to stay at 1 level most of the time. I've been listening to the 717 + O2 for a few days now and I find myself having to readjust the volume knob - Jazz at 9-10 o'clock and Classical at 12 o'clock, the latter tends to sound pretty far away as compared to my dynamic amps._

 

I set the volume control on my 717/007A at the 12:00 setting. It seemed that I used to set it up about one number higher before I started using Silclear contact enhancer. Using that stuff tends to increase the signal level even if you don't touch the volume control.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. 

 And come to think of it, I think i have a li-po pack around here somewhere that outputs something in the neighborhood of 9v. One of those emergency power supply things for cell phones and whatnot, with a variable output.

 Edit: And, two observations. 

 1: Most ESP/950 pictures I've seen show black grilles w/ a red badge on each yoke. I have no badges, and the grilles have a flat reddish paintjob. 

 2: They seem to squeal a bit. This might end up meaning that i send them to koss for warranty repair, which is annoying, but i can still hardly complain for the price._

 

Would these be still under warranty if you are not the original owner? The warranty is pretty clear about that.

 I once fixed a squeal on a 950 after Koss couldn't. The cable to the eraphone cup was too close to the electrode on the driver and was shorting it out just enough to squeal.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would these be still under warranty if you are not the original owner? The warranty is pretty clear about that._

 

I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with that. 

 Has anyone?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, like to hear from you guys at what volume you listen to your music on the Stax, esp those with the 717 + O2 combo.

 On my dynamic setup, volume knob tends to stay at 1 level most of the time. I've been listening to the 717 + O2 for a few days now and I find myself having to readjust the volume knob - Jazz at 9-10 o'clock and Classical at 12 o'clock, the latter tends to sound pretty far away as compared to my dynamic amps._

 

It depends on the source, and the music. Balanced output has 3dB more gain than unbalanced, and different sources have different output levels to begin with, so you really can't compare them like that. Also recordings tend to have so much variation between flawless but quiet old classical and jazz recordings to modern brickwalled rock crap with zero dynamic range, that you really can't tell by volume knob position alone.

 Still, with critical listening, I usually listen at 9:00 or so for the loud stuff, which I don't ever listen to anyway, between 10 and 12 for well-produced electronica, and sometimes, but rarely up to 1 or 2 for very quiet classical. Casual listening levels are lower, usually around 9-10 for the well-produced stuff.

 Sometimes I do crank it way higher than that though. Some things are just meant to be heard at concert volume levels.


----------



## edstrelow

Over the weekend my Stax 717 amp shut down twice while running the 007A. I had turned it on after I got up in the morning but didn't get around to listening for about 4 hours. When I put some music on it played for about 3 minutes, then there was a short screech and the sound sound stopped. After I turned the amp off for a minute. It played again and then did the same shut down a few minutes later.

 I let it sit for about 1/2 hour, blew some dust out of the amp, tried it again and it worked fine. I haven't had any problem since but I have not left it sitting for 4 hours at a time. 

 Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

 Is there a protective circuit or what?

 I suspect overheating and think I should open the unit up and clean it properly. It has an open grill on top and has been collecting room dust for a few years now.


----------



## spritzer

There is a protection circuit in the amp with relays on the output, probably triggered by excessive DC voltage. My first cause of action would be to clean the amp as dust and high voltage don't mix and if that doesn't work, send the amp back for service. You can also check and see if the the amp boards are properly seated inside and make sure the contacts are clean. Make sure you can't get zapped as there is a lot of power stored in those caps.


----------



## dickbianchi

Im looking for a dac with balanced output. (Im considering the bargain priced ps audio, at 699 right now).

 I need to buy a set of xlr analogue ics. I noticed that there is a diagram on the back of the 007t amp indicting polarity. Is this a standard configuration and would any standard xlr ic do (sorry for my ignorance but i dont even know if there is such a thing as a standard configuation) or do I have to order a set of cables specifically configured for stax and/or the dac i choose.

 Thanks.


----------



## Oublie

standard xlr connections.


----------



## dickbianchi

Thanks


----------



## Thermionic

Hi everyone, I was dusting the insides of my SRM-T1S the other day (as you do) and I took a few pictures of it. Thought they might be of interest to some of the followers of this thread. 

 Sorry that they are a bit big.


















 As regards professional equipment with XLR connections, wiring convention has long been a bone of contention between various countries. Because some have pin 2 as 'hot' (+) and pin 3 as the return (-) with pin 1 always earth, while others have pin 3 as ’hot’ and pin 2 as the return. So while any XLR interconnect will work you may get a reversal in absolute phase if you are unlucky and if this is important to you. 

 I notice that my T1S has pin 3 marked as hot (+) which might not agree with the American made PS Audio equipment. So it would be worth checking with them as you may need to have wires 2 and 3 swapped over in your ic.


----------



## jigster

Am considering building a HE60 to Stax adapter by cannibalizing a Stax extension. But can anyone help to verify the pinout on the plug of the HE60 connector? I have made a diagram of the HE60 plug below as it looks when facing the connector from the front. Am I right about the positions of the bias, +ve & -ve poles??






 BTW, thanks Birgir for your help.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Thermionic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I notice that my T1S has pin 3 marked as hot (+) which might not agree with the American made PS Audio equipment. So it would be worth checking with them as you may need to have wires 2 and 3 swapped over in your ic._

 

I'm using a PS Audio DLIII with both STAX SRM-717 and 007t through off-the-shelf balanced IC's (AudioQuest Viper) and everythings works just fine!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't attest to absolute phase however.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I got my Lambda Nova Signatures today, all I can say is WOW. I never expected them to sound so much better then the 404's. Its much more organic, natural sounding, balanced, but not boring in the least. I really really like it! Thanks for all the recommendations._

 

Great to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Never heard the Lambda Nova Signature myself, but have heard the Lambda Signature and prefer it over the SR-404.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now a stupid question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, how am I supposed to change earpads on the Stax headphones? I did a search but didn't find anything (sorry), they come with some sort of selfadhesive tape formed in the shape of the earpads._

 

Remove the old pads, and as much as possible of the old tape residue. Then mount the new pads.
*NB!* Make notice of the pads orientation before mounting, as they can mount 4 ways while just 1 way is correct.


----------



## powerslave

Hi everyone, i'm new to the stax world! I just want to thank everyone for all the wonderful info in all the various stax threads on the site. I managed to score an SRM-1 MK2 & Lambda Pros and am enjoying the ride so far. I've also got normal Lambda's on the way so there's no going back for me.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using a PS Audio DLIII with both STAX SRM-717 and 007t through off-the-shelf balanced IC's (AudioQuest Viper) and everythings works just fine!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't attest to absolute phase however._

 

Thanks Wilcox and Thermionic


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! Do I agree with that statement._

 

I have been looking around for something a little more musical for source... Anyone tried the Esound Prime version CDP? Read some really good review for it, just wondering how it would fare on the 717+O2 combo.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powerslave* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi everyone, i'm new to the stax world! I just want to thank everyone for all the wonderful info in all the various stax threads on the site. I managed to score an SRM-1 MK2 & Lambda Pros and am enjoying the ride so far. I've also got normal Lambda's on the way so there's no going back for me._

 

Great entry electrostatic rig! Welcome!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im looking for a dac with balanced output. (Im considering the bargain priced ps audio, at 699 right now).

 I need to buy a set of xlr analogue ics. I noticed that there is a diagram on the back of the 007t amp indicting polarity. Is this a standard configuration and would any standard xlr ic do (sorry for my ignorance but i dont even know if there is such a thing as a standard configuation) or do I have to order a set of cables specifically configured for stax and/or the dac i choose.

 Thanks._

 

Re: PS Audio - I wanted to trade my APS modded ESP950 for Blutarsky's Stello DA100 Signature that is on the way - he decided to buy a PS Audio DLIII and we'll compare them, and he will give me either the Stello or the PS Audio for the ESP950 depending on our testing. We both know we already like the Stello sound signature, and if he keeps both his Stello and neither us likes the PSA then we can return it and try something else.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, like to hear from you guys at what volume you listen to your music on the Stax, esp those with the 717 + O2 combo.

 On my dynamic setup, volume knob tends to stay at 1 level most of the time. I've been listening to the 717 + O2 for a few days now and I find myself having to readjust the volume knob - Jazz at 9-10 o'clock and Classical at 12 o'clock, the latter tends to sound pretty far away as compared to my dynamic amps._

 

I notice I have to set the knob on my 717/02 much higher than I did with my Lamdas, which was similar to your 717 settings. It may not tell much due to different systems having different volume output levels, but on my 717 I set the volume for Jazz/Rock more or less at Noon, Classical is typically around 2:00, but ranges from 1 o'clock to 2:45! I tend to play on the loud side, but thru my system these settings are not extremely loud. Seems since I switched to silver interconnects, I can set the volume knob slightly lower, but this could be my adjusting to the 02s as well.


----------



## fishpatrol

I'm selling my SRM-001 mk2 already to take a baby step up. With my baby post count I'm offering them here first, $225 + shipping, CONUS. Add Sony Fontopia tips and listening is a lot easier IMHO.


----------



## Currawong

fishpatrol: There's a reason there's a min post count limit before you can sell stuff. It's not so you post it for sale outside the trading forums.

 Back on topic: Lambda Singatures (I don't recall if they are Nova or not) are on my list of Stax to try. I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with 3 sets of Stax HPs the way things are going.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: PS Audio - I wanted to trade my APS modded ESP950 for Blutarsky's Stello DA100 Signature that is on the way - he decided to buy a PS Audio DLIII and we'll compare them, and he will give me either the Stello or the PS Audio for the ESP950 depending on our testing. We both know we already like the Stello sound signature, and if he keeps both his Stello and neither us likes the PSA then we can return it and try something else._

 

I'm keen to read your impressions on it vs. your Apogee.


----------



## Currawong

Dupe.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Over the weekend my Stax 717 amp shut down twice while running the 007A. I had turned it on after I got up in the morning but didn't get around to listening for about 4 hours. When I put some music on it played for about 3 minutes, then there was a short screech and the sound sound stopped. After I turned the amp off for a minute. It played again and then did the same shut down a few minutes later.

 I let it sit for about 1/2 hour, blew some dust out of the amp, tried it again and it worked fine. I haven't had any problem since but I have not left it sitting for 4 hours at a time. 

 Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

 Is there a protective circuit or what?

 I suspect overheating and think I should open the unit up and clean it properly. It has an open grill on top and has been collecting room dust for a few years now._

 


 My 717 shuts off with the power led staying on when there is any input anomaly like when the plug on my DAP is wiggled and in addition it does shut off when an object is placed on top of it covering one third or one quarter of the venting holes and both the Jade and O2 are driven for a while eventually raising the temperature above a predetermined level. Powering down waiting a few seconds and powering up again resolves the problem.
 So there must be input, output, and temperature protective mechanisms.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a protection circuit in the amp with relays on the output, probably triggered by excessive DC voltage. My first cause of action would be to clean the amp as dust and high voltage don't mix and if that doesn't work, send the amp back for service. You can also check and see if the the amp boards are properly seated inside and make sure the contacts are clean. Make sure you can't get zapped as there is a lot of power stored in those caps._

 

Thanks for the warning. A friend of mine who is a researcher in auditory neuroscience told me how he got zapped years ago by the capacitors in a piece of equipment even though it was unplugged. He and his hand froze attached to the equipment and someone else in the lab had to knock him down to break contact.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 717 shuts off with the power led staying on when there is any input anomaly like when the plug on my DAP is wiggled and in addition it does shut off when an object is placed on top of it covering one third or one quarter of the venting holes and both the Jade and O2 are driven for a while eventually raising the temperature above a predetermined level. Powering down waiting a few seconds and powering up again resolves the problem.
 So there must be input, output, and temperature protective mechanisms.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sure sounds like I need to open up the717 and clean out the dust.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure sounds like I need to open up the717 and clean out the dust._

 

It's not too difficult to clean... I just used my vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust that tends to form around the capacitors, and near the transformer.


----------



## vvanrij

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Never heard the Lambda Nova Signature myself, but have heard the Lambda Signature and prefer it over the SR-404.


 Remove the old pads, and as much as possible of the old tape residue. Then mount the new pads.
*NB!* Make notice of the pads orientation before mounting, as they can mount 4 ways while just 1 way is correct._

 

Yeah the LNS is really something special, so much more musical than the 404, I can listen to it all day, and just forget the whole headphone part, just listen to music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Anyway thanks for the advice, it seems a bit 'risky' to me, is there a chance that I screw it up when all sorts of residue stick to the frame, or wll the new pad just cover this ets.


----------



## krmathis

fishpatrol. There is a reason why we have a dedicated FS (For Sale) forum.
 ...and circumventing the posting rules by advertising here is not the right way to do it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah the LNS is really something special, so much more musical than the 404, I can listen to it all day, and just forget the whole headphone part, just listen to music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Anyway thanks for the advice, it seems a bit 'risky' to me, is there a chance that I screw it up when all sorts of residue stick to the frame, or wll the new pad just cover this ets._

 

No need to worry!
 The clue don't stick that much, so no chance to destroy the plastic frame. Just lift the pads off slowly, while trying to get as much of the glue with them.
 In either case, the new pads will cover it all.


----------



## vvanrij

Thank you very much, I put on the new pads and it was indeed very easy!


----------



## krmathis

^ Happy ending!


----------



## SoliloCey

after all this time, i put my stax on and forget i have them on now, having had any annoying creaks. But my friends say its my wife, cause all i do is talk about how awesome they are.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

SIDE NOTE.. You know, you never realize how noisy your house is, until your listening to stax. all stax purchases should come with an isolation booth! lol.

 <--frustrated listener.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not too difficult to clean... I just used my vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust that tends to form around the capacitors, and near the transformer._

 

Please be careful - especially transformer. It does not mean that each time when the power is off it does not retain some high current. Best if you unplug the power cords fully, leave it off for a while before allowing your bare hands inside. I was shorted a total of 3 times at different ocassions. Once I came almost near to either standing infront of god or saturn. The release of the electrolites into my body was like someone wacked my heart with a base ball bat and I was thrown on my back on the floor. Momentarily, I could felt I could not breathe, but I guess god must have felt it was not time for me yet. Lucky me!!! Mind you, the power was off when I got shorted. Please also remember that the 717 has high voltage inside.

 The 717 has biasing ports inside that can affect its sound and you want to be careful not to move them accidentally. I would just use a hair dryer set to blow cold air to remove some of the dust, but that is just me.


----------



## Victor Chew

Sorry duplicated posts. Mod pls delete. Thank You.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please becareful. It does not mean that each time when the power is off it does not retain some high current. Best if you unplug the power cords fully, leave it off for a while before allowing your bare hands inside._

 

How long must the power be off before it is safe to touch the innards of an 
 007t or similar amp?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How long must the power be off before it is safe to touch the innards of an 
 007t or similar amp?_

 

a year. or two.

 honestly if you don't know what you're doing and there isn't a known safe way to drain off the power reserve caps in the particular design you're tinkering with, and it's a high voltage design like any and all 'stat amps and most tube amps of any kind, just be careful. 

 the key with high voltage circuits is that if you're not SURE the power is drained out of the caps, you can only touch it with one hand at a time. 

 If you draw that current between right and left hands, that path goes across your chest, and there's a fair chance that you'll stop your heart. 

 So, the oldtimers from the golden age of vacuum tubes used to say, keep one hand in your pocket. 

 If you've only got one hand in it and you get zapped, chances are it will just hurt like hell. I hear that high voltage DC feels a bit like getting whacked with a hammer. I've been lucky enough to avoid it.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How long must the power be off before it is safe to touch the innards of an 
 007t or similar amp?_

 

Unless u know how to bleed the capacitors, I suggest don't try to touch anything with your bare hands.

 As Victor suggested, use a hairdryer to blow the dust... What I do is I use those compress air tin with the nozzle that I use for my photographic equipment to dislodge the dust first, then with the vacuum cleaner on the other hand suck up the dust, this way you don't blow dust to places that you don't want it to land. NEVER use your mouth to blow off dust.

 The dust that are caught at the foot of the capacitors are particularly stubborn, I use a really long anti static brush to remove those there, then use the vac to suck them all up.


----------



## spritzer

Before working on a tube amp it's always a good idea to measure the voltage on the capacitors and then drain them with a resistor. You can also just short them with a screwdriver (insulated handle though) but it's not a good idea as they can blow up and there is quite a bang. One of my screwdrivers still has the scars from where I accidentally touched one of the capacitor terminals in the KGSS I was working on... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear that high voltage DC feels a bit like getting whacked with a hammer. I've been lucky enough to avoid it._

 

You are not that far off...


----------



## derekbmn

I know this is probably a long shot....but I was wondering if a Woo GES owner could maybe show/post some internal shots.(either here or send them to me via PM) 

 The bottom is extremely easy to remove if you are apprehensive. (6 screws)

 Much thanks in advance !


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this is probably a long shot....but I was wondering if a Woo GES owner could maybe show/post some internal shots.(either here or send them to me via PM) 

 The bottom is extremely easy to remove if you are apprehensive. (6 screws)

 Much thanks in advance !_

 

There were some photos someone posted in the last month or so - I'll have to rack my brain to figure out where I saw them, because I really don't want to open mine.

 EDIT - best I can find


----------



## jigster

I think I've got it figured. Decided to post it up in case I make a boo-boo.


----------



## derekbmn

Thanks Larry...yeah I have seen this one. (from the Woo site)

 Still hoping someone can come through with some other pics. I need to know where the elusive 1uf interstage coupling cap is. (I have my doubts that there actually is one of that value or one at all)

 There are
 10X .22uf (interstage coupling) 
 4 X 2.2uf (output)
 and supposedly 
 2X 1uf (also interstage) 

 No 1ufs to be found


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I've got it figured. Decided to post it up in case I make a boo-boo.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...orPinout-1.jpg_

 

This one certainly can come handy.
 Thanks a lot!


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This one certainly can come handy.
 Thanks a lot! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No prob, glad to share. But hopefully I got it right though.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I've got it figured. Decided to post it up in case I make a boo-boo._

 

That is correct. Nice picture you made. You might want to check out this thread too.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *derekbmn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Larry...yeah I have seen this one. (from the Woo site)

 Still hoping someone can come through with some other pics. I need to know where the elusive 1uf interstage coupling cap is. (I have my doubts that there actually is one of that value or one at all)

 There are
 10X .22uf (interstage coupling) 
 4 X 2.2uf (output)
 and supposedly 
 2X 1uf (also interstage) 

 No 1ufs to be found 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've looked through my stash of internal pics (which I can't share) and I don't see any 1uf caps nor are there any in the schematic. Why are you looking for them?


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is correct. Nice picture you made. You might want to check out this thread too._

 

I did actually. But the problem (a small one though) was that the position of the left+ and Left- for the Stax male pin-out in that thread was opposite from the one in the Headwize page (in this one, its labelled right+ & right-). Though I guess it wouldn't matter as you'd be listening to both sides just that it would be reversed depending if you got it right. Maybe I'm just nitpicking...

 "HE60 Pinout?" Thread
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/he60-pinout-373565/

 "Headwize" Thread
HeadWize - Project: All-Triode Direct-Drive Amps for Electrostatic and Electret Headphones by Kevin Gilmore


----------



## spritzer

The phase is correct in your diaphragm.


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've looked through my stash of internal pics (which I can't share) and I don't see any 1uf caps nor are there any in the schematic. Why are you looking for them?_

 

I ask because they are listed on the Woo website and as you said any pictures, the schematic, etc. None to be found.


----------



## AudioCats

the two 1uf are probably refering to the gain stage feedback caps, (c2 in the original gilmore-all-triode schematic, though they were supposedly 4uf ).


----------



## derekbmn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the two 1uf are probably refering to the gain stage feedback caps, (c2 in the original gilmore-all-triode schematic, though they were supposedly 4uf )._

 

I think your probably correct. (the Dayton caps at the top of the pic above)
 A misprint on the Woo site ?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did actually. But the problem (a small one though) was that the position of the left+ and Left- for the Stax male pin-out in that thread was opposite from the one in the Headwize page (in this one, its labelled right+ & right-). Though I guess it wouldn't matter as you'd be listening to both sides just that it would be reversed depending if you got it right. Maybe I'm just nitpicking...

 "HE60 Pinout?" Thread
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/he60-pinout-373565/

 "Headwize" Thread
HeadWize - Project: All-Triode Direct-Drive Amps for Electrostatic and Electret Headphones by Kevin Gilmore_

 

Yes, the info on Headwize is wrong unfortunately. I was referring to that other thread to point out what's said about a 5M resistor there.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The phase is correct in your *diaphragm*._

 

A bit to much electrostats for you lately?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A bit to much electrostats for you lately? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Lack of sleep more likely and the stupid firefox spell check.


----------



## SoliloCey

hi guys does anyone have a solar powered portable stax amp for the Omegas II...

 I found some omegas for US$800, and need to justifiy the purchase by knowing they will be portable too. if not then i guess its dynamics...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi guys does anyone have a solar powered portable stax amp for the Omegas II...

 I found some omegas for US$800, and need to justifiy the purchase by knowing they will be portable too. if not then i guess its dynamics..._

 

You should jump on that deal asap. Or you should let me know who's selling so I can.


----------



## Duggeh

Didn't the Illusion Transformer have some kind of mad solar option?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't the Illusion Transformer have some kind of mad solar option?_

 

Yup. Pretty much any solar cell arrangement can give you the 12v you need to run the bias.


----------



## bjarnetv

thats pretty cool; guess i could fit a couple of solar panels on top of the floats


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should jump on that deal asap. Or you should let me know who's selling so I can._

 

X 2.

 Even with our exchange rate it's the best option you'll be getting for some time. (As long as they're fully functional you may just find you'll have the cost of new pads and then be set).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi guys does anyone have a solar powered portable stax amp for the Omegas II...

 I found some omegas for US$800, and need to justifiy the purchase by knowing they will be portable too. if not then i guess its dynamics..._

 

You should buy that O2 any way, as you can easily recover the cash down the road if you decide not to keep it.
 As for solar powered Stax amplifier, I have never seen one. I see a market for portable Stax amplifiers, but sadly none of the manufacturers does (besides Stax and their SRM-001).


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi guys does anyone have a solar powered portable stax amp for the Omegas II...

 I found some omegas for US$800, and need to justifiy the purchase by knowing they will be portable too. if not then i guess its dynamics..._

 

Gregg, if you want to have a listen to the Omega 2 Mk1s, drop me a PM - I have just moved around the corner.


----------



## SoliloCey

Bah humbug!

 I know I was being rather daft to begin with; Though one can only hope. its just they're Omega's. A better source is required first to be frank, I will pm the people that want the link, however the one that i found is US$300 more and MK I's.

 Has anyone tried using the baby stax amp, and custom built some Lambda drivers, or Gramma drivers into a closed housing? that would be intriguing...


----------



## AudioCats

mmmm, green solar power


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bah humbug!

 I know I was being rather daft to begin with; Though one can only hope. its just they're Omega's. A better source is required first to be frank, I will pm the people that want the link, however the one that i found is US$300 more and MK I's.

 Has anyone tried using the baby stax amp, and custom built some Lambda drivers, or Gramma drivers into a closed housing? that would be intriguing..._

 

The Stax 4070 is a Lambda 404 in a closed housing. 

 The Baby Stax amp is best with 001/003 phones. I sold one of these amps to a guy who used it to run Lambdas. He seemed happy doing this but used bigger batteries than the AA that fits in the case.


----------



## Oublie

hey folks anyone got a schematic of the srdx - pro or normal is fine.

 thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried using the baby stax amp, and custom built some Lambda drivers, or Gramma drivers into a closed housing? that would be intriguing..._

 

You basically describe the 4070. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Not custom built (built to order though), but they are Lambda (SR-404) drivers in a closed-back housing. The SRM-001 would most probably run really short of power driving one.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You basically describe the 4070. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Not custom built (built to order though), but they are Lambda (SR-404) drivers in a closed-back housing. The SRM-001 would most probably run really short of power driving one._

 

where and for how much approximately can one buy new 404 drivers?
 Is the 4070 or the O2 closer to the visceral transparency of the K-1000?


----------



## SoliloCey

someone on H34d-F1 is selling some Lambda drivers along with a few other goodies for $400 or so 

 Yeah KR I know of the 4070 but how expensive is that beast, and its not portable... or is it?


----------



## donunus

you buyin some more stax solilocey?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_where and for how much approximately can one buy new 404 drivers?_

 

The UK Stax importer Symmetry charges 150 GBP for a pair of 404 drivers.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Duggeh

^ Thats not so bad given that a pair of the Omega 2 headband bars (just the metal ones, no elastic), is £80. An arc assembly for a 202/303/404 is £55. I don't know how much a housing is. Although those parts quotes have are from Mark who's the service guy. You don't get those bits from symmetry themselves, they're just the importers.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The UK Stax importer Symmetry charges 150 GBP for a pair of 404 drivers.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Depending on currency fluctuations you might get a better deal from Yamasinc in the USA. They are the US distributers. They did a Sigma to Sigma/404 (Sigma with 404 drivers and cable ) conversion for about US$500.00 a few years ago, so the cost of the drivers would be about $200.00. The 404/Omega cable is surprisingly expensive.


----------



## wiatrob

I think I may have found your brand of religion. Still green to these, but now that i have my little SRD-7 / Lambdas hooked up to a 'decently' powered amp (my High Current SOHA II - you were right, Larry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) - I have to say they give all my dynamics a serious run for the $$$.

 Can't wait for a dedicated amp - soon!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah KR I know of the 4070 but how expensive is that beast, and its not portable... or is it?_

 

The 4070 can be had for $1500 from PriceJapan. It comes up used once in a while as well (I sold mine a month back).
 Its not all that portable, but not much less portable than a DIY closed back Lambda driver equipped one...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I may have found your brand of religion. Still green to these, but now that i have my little SRD-7 / Lambdas hooked up to a 'decently' powered amp (my High Current SOHA II - you were right, Larry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) - I have to say they give all my dynamics a serious run for the $$$.

 Can't wait for a dedicated amp - soon!_

 

Glad to hear it's working well for you. I still think an SR-Lambda with SRD-7 is one of the best bang for the buck headphone deals around, assuming you have an amp to power the SRD-7.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to hear it's working well for you. I still think an SR-Lambda with SRD-7 is one of the best bang for the buck headphone deals around, assuming you have an amp to power the SRD-7._

 

Indeed. I will try it with my M^3, chip amp and vintage Yamaha NaturalSound next...


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depending on currency fluctuations you might get a better deal from Yamasinc in the USA. They are the US distributers. They did a Sigma to Sigma/404 (Sigma with 404 drivers and cable ) conversion for about US$500.00 a few years ago, so the cost of the drivers would be about $200.00. The 404/Omega cable is surprisingly expensive._

 

I would like to thank all three of you for the help.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Tell me whether my idea to make Sigma housings myself (slightly larger to easily fit the 404 drivers) is feasible and might yield interesting results.
 I have a Sigma STD and I am assuming the housing is plastic. What if I made wooden boxes and what if I kept them solid and dump them inside with dynamat?

 If the cable is approximately 80lbs I could end up with two sets by spending 155+80+25=260 lbs.
 I figure a DIY headband assembly would not cost me more than 25. Oh I forgot pads but I can easily put some Nasa memory foam into leather and glue it on,
 so max 300 lbs (450$) and the fun of DIY and experimentation.

 What is the frame of the 4070 boxes made from? 

 Well all that just for the fun of it. because my K-1000 smokes them all anyways and that is not on sound stage alone but on visceral transparency as well.


----------



## Duckman

I wonder if anyone could tell me whether the SRM-T1W driver will run on 240 volts?

 Cheers.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hi my fellow Stax people, I just wanted to say that it has been a while since here. I have added a second SRDX Pro as well as some McIntosh Lab Power Amps for my external music system. Anyone going to CanJam 2009? Will a Stax Rep be there? Nice speaking to everyone again. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## plaidplatypus

Are there any differences in sound between the SRM-007t and SRM-007ta?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if anyone could tell me whether the SRM-T1W driver will run on 240 volts?

 Cheers._

 

Looking at this picture it looks like the SRM-T1W have a voltage switcher on the back.
 Where you remove the lid (two screws), then reposition the jumper. So I think its a positive.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if anyone could tell me whether the SRM-T1W driver will run on 240 volts?

 Cheers._

 

All Stax amps are able to run on 240v (well most but that caveat only applies to the newer units) but the problem is how hard they are to change. The T1W can have a voltage selector on the back panel (a plug you pull out of the socket and reinsert with the arrow pointing at the correct voltage), the same socket and plug affair but hidden underneath the main PCB (remove the bottom panel) or it was hardwired from the factory which can be reversed but isn't easy.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to thank all three of you for the help.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Tell me whether my idea to make Sigma housings myself (slightly larger to easily fit the 404 drivers) is feasible and might yield interesting results.
 I have a Sigma STD and I am assuming the housing is plastic. What if I made wooden boxes and what if I kept them solid and dump them inside with dynamat?

 If the cable is approximately 80lbs I could end up with two sets by spending 155+80+25=260 lbs.
 I figure a DIY headband assembly would not cost me more than 25. Oh I forgot pads but I can easily put some Nasa memory foam into leather and glue it on,
 so max 300 lbs (450$) and the fun of DIY and experimentation.

 What is the frame of the 4070 boxes made from? 

 Well all that just for the fun of it. because my K-1000 smokes them all anyways and that is not on sound stage alone but on visceral transparency as well.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You don't need a bigger case for the 404 drivers they are the same size as other lambdas.

 But if you are going to make your own set-up why not make something big enough to fit Omega drivers and then you would have a potential world beater.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't need a bigger case for the 404 drivers they are the same size as other lambdas.

 But if you are going to make your own set-up why not make something big enough to fit Omega drivers and then you would have a potential world beater._

 

In time yes. Have not even attempted to take the pads off from the O2 yet as Spritzer said it is relatively difficult to put them back on. 

 For now I have to get over the shock from the K-1000's.


----------



## Oublie

I was speaking to someone earlier about the normal sigma drivers. Why not buy a set of lambda signatures and swap the drivers between the sigma and the signature you will end up with a set of pro sigma and a set of normal bias lambdas supposedly two of the finest cans that use the lambda driver.


----------



## spritzer

...or just use a SR-404 as they are the best Lambda drivers Stax has ever made.


----------



## Duggeh

If you're hardcore, what you really want is a set of Airbow drivers though


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was speaking to someone earlier about the normal sigma drivers. Why not buy a set of lambda signatures and swap the drivers between the sigma and the signature you will end up with a set of pro sigma and a set of normal bias lambdas supposedly two of the finest cans that use the lambda driver._

 

Or you could just buy a Sigma Pro and SR-Lambda.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're hardcore, what you really want is a set of Airbow drivers though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It I should happen upon a used Airbow again and a SR-Sigma at the same time then you know what will happen...


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or you could just buy a Sigma Pro and SR-Lambda._

 

I don't think i've ever seen a sigma pro for sale unfortunately 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 except for the sigma 404 that was on audiogon.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have some normal SR-Sigma drivers with cable on the way - what should I build them into?


----------



## Duggeh

IEMs.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IEMs._

 

IEM's for Elephas maybe...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think i've ever seen a sigma pro for sale unfortunately 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 except for the sigma 404 that was on audiogon._

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...d-x-us-267395/


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...d-x-us-267395/_

 

before my time i'm afraid only joined last april since then i've gone from panasonic 'surround sound' wireless junk to omegas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 with quite a few steps on the way.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_before my time i'm afraid only joined last april since then i've gone from panasonic 'surround sound' wireless junk to omegas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 with quite a few steps on the way._

 

Yes, I got a bit of a kick when my roommate decided to replace his dead eggos with a 5.1 headphone. He's seen me on Head-Fi and he's really smart so I'm at a loss for words to explain his action.

 Now you know where you can find a Sigma Pro when you are ready for one.


----------



## billyearle

Hey Kintsaki, would you share with us soon some more impressions on the K1000 (vs the Omega2, or on it's own terms). If not in this thread, could you let us know where? Previously I heard comments on lack of bass so I thought it would be redundant in relation to Stax, but your last 2 comments intrigue me.
 PS, audiod told me they are inconsistant, in that like a few other phones, they sound just amazing with some types of material, and just frustatingly inadequate with others.


----------



## Richter Di

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Kintsaki, would you share with us soon some more impressions on the K1000 (vs the Omega2, or on it's own terms). If not in this thread, could you let us know where? Previously I heard comments on lack of bass so I thought it would be redundant in relation to Stax, but your last 2 comments intrigue me.
 PS, audiod told me they are inconsistant, in that like a few other phones, they sound just amazing with some types of material, and just frustatingly inadequate with others._

 

I hope you would find everything you like to know about the K-1000 here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/e...-k1000-244630/


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Richter Di* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope you would find everything you like to know about the K-1000 here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/e...-k1000-244630/_

 

Thanks Richter, that's very, very helpful, I took a dip into it. 
 I would still like to hear Kintsaki's opinions in particular, as I am a bit of a fan. 
 I don't think I'll be buying them soon anyway. & If outside noise is MUCH more of a problem than on regular open phones, it could rule them out for me.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Richter, that's very, very helpful, I took a dip into it. 
 I would still like to hear Kintsaki's opinions in particular, as I am a bit of a fan. 
 I don't think I'll be buying them soon anyway. & If outside noise is MUCH more of a problem than on regular open phones, it could rule them out for me._

 

Hi guys, first let me say I am also a fun for both of you. 
 I have been busy and will be for a little while longer but I promise I will post my findings on the K-1000 and I may even buy a K701 that I have never heard.
 There are quite a few things in relation to the K-1000 I want to say but I want to experiment some more and go through all my bipolar moods with them first.
 I was so impressed that I started with researching the threads first and now I see that Richcter has done a superb job on that that will help me a lot. I am also very much interested in Richters personal opinions based on his post on the 4070 and the fact that he is a notorious low volume level listener and I am probably the exact opposite in the manic phase (blew the drivers on all my Grados in a three month period and almost killed the Senn 600's.
 The K-1000 may be the most difficult set to setup and I plan to post a guide for that.
 My two word description for it (stolen from another Headfier) is Visceral Transparency. 
 I will PM you with the location of the post when I am ready


----------



## Richter Di

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will PM you with the location of the post when I am ready
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great. I am looking forward to that.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys, first let me say I am also a *fun *for both of you. _

 

What a positive attitude 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The K-1000 may be the most difficult set to setup and I plan to post a guide for that._

 

Right you are. Best AMP I ever heard for them was the CEC AMP 53





 After longterm try including modding the cable and buying the seldom available BAP 1000 I traded them against the 4070.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Is there anyone who has any information about using two very high end McIntosh MC1.2kW Mono Block Power Amplifiers with a Stax SRM007t and or Stax SRM007ta Headphone Amplifier. The SRMs would be used in Preamp mode. I would also be using one of my four types of Stax Pro Headphones- see list below. 

 Has anyone tried this already?

 How would such a system be hooked up?

 Should I disconnect my external speaker wires from the MC1.2s?

 Of course I would be keeping the Volumes down very low as not to hurt my ears and or the equipment. 

 If someone has tried this, what results in Sound did you get?

 Thanks Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Richter Di

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Richter, that's very, very helpful, I took a dip into it. 
 I would still like to hear Kintsaki's opinions in particular, as I am a bit of a fan. 
 I don't think I'll be buying them soon anyway. & If outside noise is MUCH more of a problem than on regular open phones, it could rule them out for me._

 

PS: There is also a new thread http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/a...-links-412862/


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Thanks very much for helping. I just got the answer to my question about McIntosh and Stax on another Stax Thread. Enjoy Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Currawong

I just feel like jumping in here randomly and saying, SR5NB + 007t + jazz = seriously good.

 I'm going to borrow a pair of Lambda Novas next and maybe write up some notes.


----------



## vvanrij

God I love my LNS's, and this is the only thread I can scream it out loud... lol.


----------



## John Buchanan

Those LNS are a good phone.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_God I love my LNS's, and this is the only thread I can scream it out loud... lol._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those LNS are a good phone._

 

What do you prefer about the LNS over the Lambda Signature, if anything?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you prefer about the LNS over the Lambda Signature, if anything?_

 

Never heard a Lambda Signature. Almost everybody who has compared mentions the upper midrange sting of the LS compared with the LNS.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_before my time i'm afraid only joined last april since then i've gone from panasonic 'surround sound' wireless junk to omegas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 with quite a few steps on the way._

 

Late last year (2008) I just missed the opportunity to buy a Sigma Pro from "Thrice". I am a Greek-American but I was caught on the bureaucracy of the Patriot Act.
 I don't think Thrice sold his pair but I may be wrong.
 Below is a link to my post on him selling me the SRD7 for them. It was my first transaction through Headfi.


thrice - Page 5 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Richter Di* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS: There is also a new thread http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/a...-links-412862/_

 

Since this is the most comprehensive single thread on K-1000 and it is started by a Headfier with an extraordinary sensitivity on positive thinking and kindness I will start posting there on the K-1000.
 Let me provide two links to add to it. 

 1. 

 For the artist in you "billyearl" (and the rest of you all) here is a "blackened red-fish"
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, black K-1000 and it is the only one. The Chef of this exquisite recipe is Headfier "Meyvn".
 "Billyearl" your friend's "AduioD" remarks on the K-1000 are mostly in agreement with my findings. And our Chef is a Grado lover as well as a Senn lover (now that beats me, but I guess he is a Maharajah kind of guy like a lot of us). 


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/bla...arning-203854/

 it is black alright but not any darker sounding.

 2. 

 To give you an idea of the experimentation I am about to go through please read Headfier's "Ferbose"
 post on "jjcha"'s K-1000 appreciation thread. 

 (and Richter it is Ferbose not ""Verbose"") 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/oh-...47/index3.html

 Using the multi-track Sound Forge 9 along with the Ozone 4 plugging I will have Lynx2 B drive the sub-woofers, speakers and headphones and control and equalize the 3 amps involved independently and with Ozone 4 I will manipulate the nonlinear characteristics of the amps to fine tune this complex system.
 Let God 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (I mean my Amon Zeus polymorphic rig test bed in my homonym thread) Help me.


----------



## EFN

I know this may be trivial....my modded SRM-001 is nothing like what the big STAXes. But this I am very certain of now - with all the caps and mods all cooked, the sound that I am getting from this baby is nothing short of eargasmic - so much so that I find little need to listen to my ER-4S rig which pales in contrast. Even my K701 (single ended amped) is incapable of emitting the lushness and realism projected by the modded SRM-001.

 STAX rules!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this may be trivial....my modded SRM-001 is nothing like what the big STAXes. But this I am very certain of now - with all the caps and mods all cooked, the sound that I am getting from this baby is nothing short of eargasmic - so much so that I find little need to listen to my ER-4S rig which pales in contrast. Even my K701 (single ended amped) is incapable of emitting the lushness and realism projected by the modded SRM-001.

 STAX rules!_

 

Welcome to "club-mod 001".


----------



## EFN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to "club-mod 001"._

 

...and you being the Vice President and Audiocats the head honcho.....evil...


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this may be trivial....my modded SRM-001 is nothing like what the big STAXes. But this I am very certain of now - with all the caps and mods all cooked, the sound that I am getting from this baby is nothing short of eargasmic - so much so that I find little need to listen to my ER-4S rig which pales in contrast. Even my K701 (single ended amped) is incapable of emitting the lushness and realism projected by the modded SRM-001.

 STAX rules!_

 

Any ideas on the ear plugs? That coupling may need improving. Also I lost my original plugs is there any place to buy replacements? You are right these babies 
 smoke the Etys and for me maybe even the O2's.


----------



## EFN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any ideas on the ear plugs? That coupling may need improving. Also I lost my original plugs is there any place to buy replacements? You are right these babies 
 smoke the Etys and for me maybe even the O2's._

 

You can try emailing STAX Japan directly. I have been lucky to keep my ear plugs within sight - as I can't imagine how difficult it will be if I lose them.

 ....even the O2s? now that's really something.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I call the SR-003 a Baby O2, kintsaki calls it the Omicron


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can try emailing STAX Japan directly. I have been lucky to keep my ear plugs within sight - as I can't imagine how difficult it will be if I lose them.

 ....even the O2s? now that's really something._

 

yes HeadponeAddict and I have also another name for it 
 "Alizee" (my son's French teacher) there is a post of mine showing the method she came up with to draw my son's attention to the class.


----------



## vvanrij

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you prefer about the LNS over the Lambda Signature, if anything?_

 

It sounds just more musical and coherent. There is no peaks or inbalance in any range of the LNS, it gives you such a musical and relaxed experience, that you don't think about anything just the music. This was something pretty new for me, as I always start thinking about stuff that doesn't sound right, with the LNS I don't have this at all. I have this expensive SPL Phonitor sitting next to me with my RS1, and also a PS1000 and a K1000 on the way, and I'm starting to regret it all. Maybe I should'v just sticked with the LNS 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, ow well, hope when I sell it it won't cost me too much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Kabeer

I have been looking for a Stax SR-30/40 frame, to use as a housing for Yamaha ortho drivers.
 I found a Micro Seiki MS-2, does anyone know if this is the same size as a SR-30?
 Thanks!!


----------



## spritzer

They are roughly the same size but the drivers are a part of the chassis on the M-S and not modular like with the Stax.


----------



## Kabeer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are roughly the same size but the drivers are a part of the chassis on the M-S and not modular like with the Stax._

 

Oh...thanks. So basically that makes it useless as an ortho fosterphone im guessing?


----------



## spritzer

Maybe not useless but much harder to work with.


----------



## Kabeer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe not useless but much harder to work with._

 

Thanks, I think its best I hold out for the SR frames then.

 EDIT: In fact since this is the Stax thread. If anyone here has a SR-30 or SR-40, or similar headphone. PM me, id like to buy it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 Thanks


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since this is the most comprehensive single thread on K-1000 and it is started by a Headfier with an extraordinary sensitivity on positive thinking and kindness I will start posting there on the K-1000._

 

Kind words! Thanks a lot! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I see myself as having a positive and kind spirit most of the time, and certainly nice to see others having the same opinion.

  Quote:


 Let me provide two links to add to it. 
 1. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/bla...arning-203854/ 
 2. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/oh-...47/index3.html 
 

Both links added! Thanks


----------



## Duggeh

Could someone with a 4070 possibly do me a favour and measure the diameter of the holes in the housing that the screws which hold the headband forks in place go through and how far from the plate which the earpad sticks to they are? A few close up shots from different angles would also be very helpful. Many thanks.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone with a 4070 possibly do me a favour and measure the diameter of the holes in the housing that the screws which hold the headband forks in place go through and how far from the plate which the earpad sticks to they are? A few close up shots from different angles would also be very helpful. Many thanks._

 

I could possibly this weekend. If someone hasn't obliged by Friday your time, drop me a PM. I have to go to round to LobsterSan's and sort out how many kidneys I'm going to have to sell to get a 007t, and maybe O2s.


----------



## billyearle

Just went to the homepage of the audio forum site Audiokarma. One of the main sponsor links was headlined "Drowning in Debt? Consider Debt Consolidation!" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just thought that was relevant here & worth sharing. Glad we don't have sponsors like that here, unless they offer o% financing. 
 & Thanks neighbor Scottsmrnyc for directing me to the site. That ad was something of an omen telling me to postpone reading further, for now
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## gjg

Hey Spritzer (or other Stax folks in the know):
 I have a 10 year (or so) Stax Lambda Nova Classic (I think..) and a SRM-3 amp, (and a 10 foot extension cable) that I have used VERY little in the past. Maybe 40 hours total, everything's in excellent condition. NO clue what it's worth now. Can anybody help me value this before I put it up for sale??? 
 Thanks,
 Greg


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Spritzer (or other Stax folks in the know):
 I have a 10 year (or so) Stax Lambda Nova Classic (I think..) and a SRM-3 amp, (and a 10 foot extension cable) that I have used VERY little in the past. Maybe 40 hours total, everything's in excellent condition. NO clue what it's worth now. Can anybody help me value this before I put it up for sale??? 
 Thanks,
 Greg_

 

$700 or so I would think. Just a guess. A Lambda Nova Signature with an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro would fetch about $800-850 with the extension. Another guess.


----------



## milkpowder

Sounds about right. The Lambda Nova Signature on its own will be around $400-550 delivered depending on market conditions. The Nova Classics should get around $300-$400 delivered. I'm not sure what the SRM-3 is worth. Don't think I've seen one for sale before.


----------



## billyearle

Hi, I really like the way my used Synergistic Research Alpha Sterling cables sound in my O2/717 setup. I just ordered a Corda Cross 1 crossfeed to try with the Omegas and my dynamic setup (which follows the 717 in the chain). 
 Are there is any suggestions for other silver RCA cables that would match well with the Alpha Sterlings, since the CC1 would have to go ahead of the HP amps in the chain? As long as I get silver, do I need worry about degrading the sound or seriously altering the signature? Even so, any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill 
 (I suspect I'll mainly use the crossfeed in the dynamic setup, mainly for the many early stereo recordings I have with extreme channel seperation, as I predict the O2s may be too revealing to make it sound natural, but the RCA used is still a big concern).


----------



## The Monkey

^Save that cable money and use it on a new source instead.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Spritzer (or other Stax folks in the know):
 I have a 10 year (or so) Stax Lambda Nova Classic (I think..) and a SRM-3 amp, (and a 10 foot extension cable) that I have used VERY little in the past. Maybe 40 hours total, everything's in excellent condition. NO clue what it's worth now. Can anybody help me value this before I put it up for sale??? 
 Thanks,
 Greg_

 

About $700 would be my guesstimate as well.
 ~$300 for the Lambda Nova Classic, ~$350 for the SRM-3 and ~$50 for the cable.

 Best wishes for the sale!


----------



## Oublie

hi guys,

 My hunt for a better amp is currently on hold until funds allow this credit crunch malarky is a pita.

 So in the spirit of the 1920's depression and "make do and mend" i'm looking for suggestions to improve my T1W. 

 I have heard that mods can be done but what are they?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I really like the way my used Synergistic Research Alpha Sterling cables sound in my O2/717 setup. I just ordered a Corda Cross 1 crossfeed to try with the Omegas and my dynamic setup (which follows the 717 in the chain). 
 Are there is any suggestions for other silver RCA cables that would match well with the Alpha Sterlings, since the CC1 would have to go ahead of the HP amps in the chain? As long as I get silver, do I need worry about degrading the sound or seriously altering the signature? Even so, any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill 
 (I suspect I'll mainly use the crossfeed in the dynamic setup, mainly for the many early stereo recordings I have with extreme channel seperation, as I predict the O2s may be too revealing to make it sound natural, but the RCA used is still a big concern)._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^Save that cable money and use it on a new source instead._

 

I need to find someone to help me build my Corda Cross kit as well, since I am not able to do it myself - can't read a schematic. I don't see why it wouldn't be good enough to use with the stats though. 

 I also agree that you first put the money into phones, then source, then amp, then cables last. 

 You could start with some $100/pr anti-cables RCA IC and be 95% of the way there so that you may never need to upgrade once you have phones, source and amp sorted. And mmwwhats here on head-fi makes a wicked 7-strand dead soft silver cable with teflon air-tube dielectric for under $100/pr (RCA or XLR) that matches the anti-cables performance (his 3-strand $40 cable is good but not as transparent or invisible).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi guys,

 My hunt for a better amp is currently on hold until funds allow this credit crunch malarky is a pita.

 So in the spirit of the 1920's depression and "make do and mend" i'm looking for suggestions to improve my T1W. 

 I have heard that mods can be done but what are they?_

 

First try to find out the best tubes for the amp. I recall Spritzer recommending some Japanese tubes, but don't recall which ones (Siemens or Telefunken or Mullard japanese clones?)


----------



## Sherwood

The Mazda japanese tubes are the ones he recommended me, and those kicked butt. Took me about a week to find a pair on the 'bay.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mazda japanese tubes are the ones he recommended me, and those kicked butt. Took me about a week to find a pair on the 'bay._

 

While the Mazda cars are Japanese the Mazda tubes were made in the UK. Toshiba is the best I've found.


----------



## Sherwood

Stoutly said. You are 100% correct, sir. Toshiba it is, was, and always has been.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to find someone to help me build my Corda Cross kit as well, since I am not able to do it myself - can't read a schematic. I don't see why it wouldn't be good enough to use with the stats though. 

 I also agree that you first put the money into phones, then source, then amp, then cables last. 

 You could start with some $100/pr anti-cables RCA IC and be 95% of the way there so that you may never need to upgrade once you have phones, source and amp sorted. And mmwwhats here on head-fi makes a wicked 7-strand dead soft silver cable with teflon air-tube dielectric for under $100/pr (RCA or XLR) that matches the anti-cables performance (his 3-strand $40 cable is good but not as transparent or invisible)._

 

 Thanks for the suggestions Larry, I will try looking up mmwwhats. Right after typing my post I realized I could of course put the 3prs alpha sterlings leading up to the 717 and put the new pair of cables last, leading into my Zana Deux, so that a character match isn't as important as keeping up a level of quality. And I didn't want to have to pay what the Alpha Sterlings go for new (got 3prs for $200 which seems like a bargain), so your suggestion is perfect. 
 As for the Corda Cross, I had all but given up on finding one built, and was pondering buying a costly amp with crossfeed for my crossfeed needs. I unexpectedly stumbled across a used built one. Glad to hear you think it will be fine with the Omegas.


----------



## fishpatrol

Maybe I just didn't read earlier posts right, but I thought the SR-003 had a cable upgrade from the SR-001. Recently bought an SRS-005 and the cabling is exactly the same except for the massive plug at the end. Has anyone had eyes on a variant with different cabling?

 This was a crossed-fingers buy, but it brings weight to the bass and still sings. Sounds like the general descriptions of the SRM-001 mods, but any step up earns some praise from me. Worth a listen if you aren't handy with a soldering iron.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stoutly said. You are 100% correct, sir. Toshiba it is, was, and always has been._

 

Thanks Guys,

 I'll have a hunt for a set of these. I've heard of folk running different tubes from standard e.g 6sn's etc using tube socket adaptors and feeding a different voltage to them. Is this viable or even necessary? 

 Any other tweaks I should try?


----------



## Michgelsen

Spritzer, how do you like NEC tubes? Ever tried them?


----------



## Tachikoma

The NECs I have look exactly like the Toshibas I had before


----------



## spacemanspliff

I was curious as to closed Stax. What is the difference sonically? Specifically, bass extension. It should be more impactful but how low do they go? I would really love to get a pair of Sigmas with the 4070 drivers but that is a tough bird to find lol. 

 I want as speaker like a presentation as possible. I am also considering the Edition 8s, JVC 1000s and V4 Darths. Source and amp to be selected when the headphone is settled.

 Finally getting enough $$ to get something nice. Problem is my wife is deaf and the tv stereo is powerful. You can hear it throughout the house. I need closed to isolate from her damn soap operas. She needs a hobby! Still love her though.

 I am going to make a dedicated, sound proofed room eventually. Just need more $$ for that.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Guys,

 I'll have a hunt for a set of these. I've heard of folk running different tubes from standard e.g 6sn's etc using tube socket adaptors and feeding a different voltage to them. Is this viable or even necessary? 

 Any other tweaks I should try?_

 

There aren't other tubes you can use instead of the 6CG7/6FQ7's without major changes to the amp such as replacing the power transformer for instance. You could upgrade all the wiring, install better sockets, replace the Alps pot etc. but I'd rather just get a 717 personally...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, how do you like NEC tubes? Ever tried them?_

 

I've tried some that were branded NEC but who knows who was the original OEM.


----------



## Oublie

I suppose i could always hold out for the diy amp thats being designed atm. I just can't find a 717 for sale . Patience isn't a virtue of mine


----------



## kinsale

Hi Stax Lovers,

 Can someone advise me what is the most cost effective way in to Stax. I do not know anyone near me with Stax. I would really love to try something new. I have been looking on 'bay but everything looks so far out of reach. Any advice?

 Thanks


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Stax Lovers,

 Can someone advise me what is the most cost effective way in to Stax. I do not know anyone near me with Stax. I would really love to try something new. I have been looking on 'bay but everything looks so far out of reach. Any advice?

 Thanks_

 

I researched a little on this and thought the Lambda or Lambda Pro with an energizer and nuforce icon would make a complete rig. It'll be about $500-600, but it'll kick the poop out of any dynamic rig near that price I believe.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I researched a little on this and thought the Lambda or Lambda Pro with an energizer and nuforce icon would make a complete rig. It'll be about $500-600, but it'll kick the poop out of any dynamic rig near that price I believe._

 

How are you liking the Lambda Pros?


----------



## kinsale

are there other places to look besides the forums here and 'bay? I envy those who find them at garage sales etc.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are there other places to look besides the forums here and 'bay? I envy those who find them at garage sales etc._

 

Audiogon.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are you liking the Lambda Pros? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are perhaps the single greatest purchase I think that I have made in this hobby.

 Thank you, thank you, thank you. I spent five hours straight today happily listening to them.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spacemanspliff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was curious as to closed Stax. What is the difference sonically? Specifically, bass extension. It should be more impactful but how low do they go? I would really love to get a pair of Sigmas with the 4070 drivers but that is a tough bird to find lol. 

 Problem is my wife is deaf and the tv stereo is powerful. You can hear it throughout the house. I need closed to isolate from her damn soap operas. She needs a hobby! Still love her though.

 I am going to make a dedicated, sound proofed room eventually. Just need more $$ for that._

 

The Sigma with 404 components (that is what is in the 4070 too) is only available as a do-it-yourself modification or can be done by a dealer. Yamasinc, the US Stax dealer did it for me for about $500.00. For me it is a close second to the 007A and if you really like its speaker-like presentation, you may even prefer it to any Omega. I plan to bring mine to the LA Canjam.

 Sounds like your wife need headphones so she doesn't blast you out of the house.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Audiogon._

 

Or craigslist if it's available. My friend just scored a mint set of lambda sigs and SRMT1 for $600


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Stax Lovers,

 Can someone advise me what is the most cost effective way in to Stax. I do not know anyone near me with Stax. I would really love to try something new. I have been looking on 'bay but everything looks so far out of reach. Any advice?

 Thanks_

 

So many ways to go, ad here are some of them:
 * SR-Lambda and SRD-7 -> ~$300
 * SR-X/MK3 and SRD-7 -> ~$250
 * SR-Lambda Pro and SRD-7mk2 -> ~$5-600
 * SR-Lambda (Pro) and SRM-1 mk2 -> ~$700

 Then there are the new systems like SRS-2050, SR-001MK2, ...


----------



## ejmcgee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Stax Lovers,

 Can someone advise me what is the most cost effective way in to Stax. I do not know anyone near me with Stax. I would really love to try something new. I have been looking on 'bay but everything looks so far out of reach. Any advice?

 Thanks_

 

I started my STAX career in the late 70's with the SR-44 electret system. Tried going back to dynamics, but I couldn't, I was hooked! I've seen these several times on ebay and this is probably the most cost effective way to delve into the STAX world.
 In '82 got the Lambda Pro/SRD7 Pro. They served me very well for over 25 years and I'll never part with them. These I highly recommend!
 Last year got the O2's. Driving them with the SRD7 Pro for now, but of course, this is a little (a little?) out of the 'cost effective' league.
 Bottom line IMO, any STAX you can afford will be worth the price of admission!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are perhaps the single greatest purchase I think that I have made in this hobby.

 Thank you, thank you, thank you. I spent five hours straight today happily listening to them._

 

I am really psyched to hear that, and I felt the exact same way about them. It was one of those "aha!" moments, "so this is what I've been looking for!"

 Then of course, I got tempted by the O2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I still feel like I could easily have stopped at the LP or the Signatures.


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma with 404 components (that is what is in the 4070 too) is only available as a do-it-yourself modification or can be done by a dealer. Yamasinc, the US Stax dealer did it for me for about $500.00.  For me it is a close second to the 007A *and if you really like **its speaker-like presentation, you may even prefer it to any Omega. *I plan to bring mine to the LA Canjam._

 

 So this mod sounds better than a 4070? It's a closed phone with speaker like presentation? So I just need to find a used Sigma and pay around 500 for the mod? Any idea how much a used Sigma goes for?


----------



## ejmcgee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are perhaps the single greatest purchase I think that I have made in this hobby.

 Thank you, thank you, thank you. I spent five hours straight today happily listening to them._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really psyched to hear that, and I felt the exact same way about them. It was one of those "aha!" moments, "so this is what I've been looking for!"

 Then of course, I got tempted by the O2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I still feel like I could easily have stopped at the LP or the Signatures._

 

Glad I'm not the only one on this boat!


----------



## billyearle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really psyched to hear that, and I felt the exact same way about them. It was one of those "aha!" moments, "so this is what I've been looking for!"

 Then of course, I got tempted by the O2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I still feel like I could easily have stopped at the LP or the Signatures._

 

 But if I already skipped ahead to the O2Mk1, do I need to wonder about what I might be missing with the LP or Signature??
 p.s. I saw March 9th that Justin is ready to ship the 1st "Spring 09" BHSE! I supect we'll see some impressions here before mine ships.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But if I already skipped ahead to the O2Mk1, do I need to wonder about what I might be missing with the LP or Signature??
 p.s. I saw March 9th that Justin is ready to ship the 1st "Spring 09" BHSE! I supect we'll see some impressions here before mine ships._

 

No, with proper amplification the SR-007 or SR-007II will give you a sound that will not be able to be reproduced by any Lambda. Lambdas are like a more detailed MS-2i (a very nice dynamic IMO). Lambdas are lighter and IMO more comfortable than the SR-007.


----------



## kinsale

How are the SX-40? Any opinions? How much would you pay for them?


----------



## ejmcgee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are the SX-40? Any opinions? How much would you pay for them?_

 

Are you looking at the 'SX-40' on ebay?
 I believe that's the SR-40 headphone and SRD-4 adapter, hence the SR-44 earspeaker system. IMHO it's an excellent entry level STAX system and I wouldn't pay more than $200 for a set in real good condition, but considering the extension cord is included I think it's worth $225.


----------



## scompton

$200 is way to much for a SR-40. Don't pay more than $75 if even that. They are OK but not great. You're much better off getting a normal bias SR-3 or SR-5 with a SRD-6 for well under $200.


----------



## kinsale

But where does one get a SR-5 system for under $200?? I guess I just have to be patient.


----------



## scompton

Here's an SR-3 that went cheap. It's better than the SR-40

Stax Electrostatic Ear Speaker Phones & Adaptor - eBay (item 300296156478 end time Mar-02-09 15:08:27 PST)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this mod sounds better than a 4070? It's a closed phone with speaker like presentation? So I just need to find a used Sigma and pay around 500 for the mod? Any idea how much a used Sigma goes for?_

 

The Sigma is a forward mounted phone but is not closed. Check Stax Japan History section to see what they look like.

 Another possibility for you is the Koss ESP9 or even an ESP6 which are closed phones which use a transformer. They are not speaker-like but are closed. BTW I don't think the 4070 is "speaker-like" as with the Sigma. Hooked up to the right amp and source the 9 is quite good. I use a Rat Shack 100wpc Sherwood with them and also to run the speakers in my bedroom. I have my 9 set up next to my 717/007A and I am always amazed how good the 9 is at a small fraction of the price of the other set-up. Many of those which can be found on Ebay are crapped out and virtually all will need new replacement pads from Koss (about $6.00). However a good set usually goes for about $150.00. The Sherwood amp is $100.00.


----------



## kinsale

SR-X Mk3 for $250 OR SR-40 for $150 ??

 Is this too much to pay for either?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this mod sounds better than a 4070? It's a closed phone with speaker like presentation? So I just need to find a used Sigma and pay around 500 for the mod? Any idea how much a used Sigma goes for?_

 

Expect to pay $600 to $800 for a good quality Sigma.


----------



## plaidplatypus

I have a couple Sigma (Pro and 404) and don't need both. I would be willing to part with one or both if given a good enough offer.


----------



## kinsale

Out of my range


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *billyearle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this mod sounds better than a 4070? It's a closed phone with speaker like presentation? So I just need to find a used Sigma and pay around 500 for the mod? Any idea how much a used Sigma goes for?_

 

Or wait for me to finish putting the 4040 drivers on my Sigmas and then sell them to you.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Billy get a Lynx or Aurora (from LynxSystems) along with some DSP mastering Software. You can't really appreciate the dynamics, textures, timbral tones and fine subtleties that your silver IC's, state of the art amps and Head Sets in your collection reveal from a good recording and a fine source. With a just good source all you can tell at your hardware level is basic signature similarities/differences.

 And please send me a PM or post a mini review of the GS-1000 versus your Denons, Staxes and AKG's.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Expect to pay $600 to $800 for a good quality Sigma._

 

"JP11801" sold me his Sigma, SRD7 (silver panel) and a DIY wooden Stand all in perfect shape for 500$ plus 30$ for shipping to Greece. By the time I replace the cable and new drivers with 4040 from the English importer my Sigma/404 will be 800$. Labor and SRD7 pro bias upgrade from my friend Yanni is free.


----------



## John Buchanan

Nice price Kintsaki!
 Is the pro bias upgrade difficult to do on the SRD7?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the pro bias upgrade difficult to do on the SRD7?_

 

Not at all. We have all the Pro bias schematics and they are easy enough to build on a perfboard.


----------



## powerslave

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of my range 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There's a Stax SRD-7 with SR-X mkIII bidding on ebay now for under $200. There's also some assorted electrets as well.

 Also STAX SR-3 Headphones Ear Speakers SRD-5 bidding low right now.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X Mk3 for $250 OR SR-40 for $150 ??

 Is this too much to pay for either?_

 

Definitely the SR-X/MK3. No questions asked...
 Cause they are electrostatic, compared to electrets, and nice ones as well.


----------



## mark_h




----------



## spritzer

^ What about the SRA-14S/Lambda Pro combo?


----------



## kinsale

Well I gave in and got the SR-X MkIII. Any advice on what to driver them with when I get them? I have a Qinpu Q2 in my office. I know it can drive speakers. Do I need a lot of power from the amp?


----------



## scompton

Even a lowly Sonic Impact T amp can drive them so they don't need much. The better the speaker amp, the better they'll sound though.


----------



## kinsale

Thats a relief, I really didn't want to try and find another amp for my office. I know I'm an Electrical Engineer but the amount of gadgets and electronics in my office is getting out of hand


----------



## greggf

I've read that you need to protect electrostatic headphones from dust, and that you need to store them, between listening sessions, in a way that keeps dust at bay.

 In the past, I've covered a 404 with Stax's own little plastic cover, on a Stax wooden stand. Is there any other way to do it?

 Or can I just lay the suckers bare naked on my desk between uses the easy lazy way, or stick them on an open banana stand? Is dust really not a worry in most house conditions?

 =obsessive in upstate NY=


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've read that you need to protect electrostatic headphones from dust, and that you need to store them, between listening sessions, in a way that keeps dust at bay.

 In the past, I've covered a 404 with Stax's own little plastic cover, on a Stax wooden stand. Is there any other way to do it?

 Or can I just lay the suckers bare naked on my desk between uses the easy lazy way, or stick them on an open banana stand? Is dust really not a worry in most house conditions?

 =obsessive in upstate NY= 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Most of us ARE obsessive about our STAX, but I have to tell you that I had a Lambda Pro/SRD-7 Pro that I bought in the mid '80's that hung off the side of my equipment rack or on an open shelf.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I sold this system a couple of years ago and it sounded (and looked) as good as new. So, they are not as delicate as some say.

 However, I now cover my two 007s with STAX covers when they are not in use. Enjoy your earspeakers, but don't obsess over the small stuff!


----------



## Currawong

I have a negative ion generator and air filter to keep the dust at bay. That's for my apartment though, not just for the Stax.


----------



## greggf

Thanks, guys.

 I'm wondering how to do the whole aesthetic/stand thing and deal with dust at the same time. 

 We have two cats. But, in general, other than that, I think that I have a Stax-Safe environment.

 Am I nuts, or do some of you also worry about how your gear looks/how it's placed/stored? It must not be me; I've seen lots of gorgeous pictures of rooms, desktops, and stands over the years. 

 It seems to me that desks are the hardest environments to make look nice. And now stats have the added dimension of cleanliness to think about, fragile or not.

 God, I love this hobby!


----------



## rsbrsvp

For the third time- I am on the brink of buying a HE90.

 I have two questions for headfiers if you would help me.

 1. If I don't like it will it be difficult to resell at 8.5K in todays economy

 2. If the headphone was mad around 18 years ago with the origional batch but is in 9/10 condition and working perfectly- what are the odds a speaker will go bad assumming it is not dropped? Do the HE90's have a good track record for reliability, medium or poor?

 I would appreciate anyones advice on this matter.

 Thanks..


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I gave in and got the SR-X MkIII. Any advice on what to driver them with when I get them? I have a Qinpu Q2 in my office. I know it can drive speakers. Do I need a lot of power from the amp?_

 

Congratulations! Good choice.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It does come with an SRD-7 right? In that case I am quite sure the Qinpu Q2 should be able to kick it to life. It certainly don't need a monster amplifier...


----------



## kinsale

Yead I'm sooo happy. It does come with the SRD-7. When, and not if I get the upgrade bug, what is the best upgrade for these phones. Is it to get a Stax Amp to run them or just get a better amp to drive the SRD-7?


----------



## krmathis

...double post!


----------



## krmathis

^ Touch choice!
 I would have put my money into a nice speaker amplifier, probably a tube driven one. But one of the Stax amplifiers, ex. SRM-1/MK2 would not be a bad idea either.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! Good choice.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It does come with an SRD-7 right? In that case I am quite sure the Qinpu Q2 should be able to kick it to life. It certainly don't need a monster amplifier..._

 

A Qinpu Q-1 is enough to drive my son's SRD-6 /SR-Lambda without trouble (2 watts) and it sounds much better than the old Optimus 5-watt amp we were using.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the third time- I am on the brink of buying a HE90.

 I have two questions for headfiers if you would help me.

 1. If I don't like it will it be difficult to resell at 8.5K in todays economy

 2. If the headphone was mad around 18 years ago with the origional batch but is in 9/10 condition and working perfectly- what are the odds a speaker will go bad assumming it is not dropped? Do the HE90's have a good track record for reliability, medium or poor?

 I would appreciate anyones advice on this matter.

 Thanks.._

 

I assume you are talking about an complete Orpheus system not just the phones. My impression is that these were quite special 18 years ago but that the various Stax products have caught up or exceeded them.


----------



## Currawong

I haven't taken a picture of my set-up with the Stax. I've been waiting for new gear to arrive, such as the HD-800s and Reference 1 DAC first, but this set-up, with a DIY shelf system from a local hardware store works well for me:


----------



## vvanrij

I love its orderly look


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've read that you need to protect electrostatic headphones from dust, and that you need to store them, between listening sessions, in a way that keeps dust at bay.

 In the past, I've covered a 404 with Stax's own little plastic cover, on a Stax wooden stand. Is there any other way to do it?

 Or can I just lay the suckers bare naked on my desk between uses the easy lazy way, or stick them on an open banana stand? Is dust really not a worry in most house conditions?

 =obsessive in upstate NY= 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Make sure you don't repeat my mistake of keeping the headphones in a closed plastic bag. The air probably got too humid inside because of the sweaty headphone pads, especially during summer, and this is the likely reason why my 303's got defective 3 times in 3 years!


----------



## greggf

Yes, the one thing that I was aware of was not using closed bags from earlier in the Stax thread. Thanks!


----------



## kostalex

This thread is so huge. I want to provide some opposition in order to keep head-fi more balanced. Thus I created...

*ANTISTAX thread!*


----------



## dharma

Not sure, are links below already investigated:
6moons audio reviews: STAX*3030 vs 4040 systems
6moons audio reviews: Stax SRS*4040-II Signature/SRM-006t II Earspeaker System


----------



## manaox2

My Lambda Signature need new mineral wool as they have had the dampening removed when I recieved them. I'm not sure why someone would do that, they do not sound good that way to me (worse then the Lambda Pro). The foam behind the pads is half disintegrated, so I'll also have to replace the pads with a pair from audiocubes II. I don't think they have the brown pads like these though, bummer.

 Any help or clues as to finding these materials?


----------



## dharma

Question: there is thread about bass reproduction 
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/wha...ml#post5532151
 One STAX owner wrote:...'To my ears as a piano player myself, I think the pro900 does the best job I'v heard so far'...
 This thread seems non active for now, so perhaps i have to ask in this thread again:
 what is Stax Lambda Nova Signature missing (just lowest register or authority or...)? Whats up with newest 007 or 4070, how they deal with lowest register?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda Signature need new mineral wool as they have had the dampening removed when I recieved them. I'm not sure why someone would do that, they do not sound good that way to me (worse then the Lambda Pro). The foam behind the pads is half disintegrated, so I'll also have to replace the pads with a pair from audiocubes II. I don't think they have the brown pads like these though, bummer.

 Any help or clues as to finding these materials?_

 

There was no damping on the Signature and the earpads are long out of production. The SR-404 pads will work but they don't look the same.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There was no damping on the Signature and the earpads are long out of production. The SR-404 pads will work but they don't look the same._

 

Thanks, I learned something. Pads are rough, but still sealing decently, I'll just pull out the rest of the foam.


----------



## kinsale

Guys, I'm panicking! I got my SR-X Mk3 today. I posted in the headphones forum but thought I'd ask here too. I'm not getting any sound from the headphones. The SRD-7 turns on and I hooked my amp to the SRD-7 but I get nothing. Do they need to charge up or anything? Please help


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys, I'm panicking! I got my SR-X Mk3 today. I posted in the headphones forum but thought I'd ask here too. I'm not getting any sound from the headphones. The SRD-7 turns on and I hooked my amp to the SRD-7 but I get nothing. Do they need to charge up or anything? Please help_

 

Make sure you connect the SRD-7 input cable (grey cable) to the speaker amp's outputs, and not connect the amp to the speaker terminals on the back of the SRD-7.

 Also make sure the switch on the front of the SRD-7 is set for earspeakers and not loudspeakers.

 And, make sure you have the correct outputs of the speaker amp turned on.


----------



## kinsale

Duh!!! What an idiot I am!! I connected to the speaker terminals. You guys are the best really!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Duh!!! What an idiot I am!! I connected to the speaker terminals. You guys are the best really!_

 

I figured it had to be one of the three possibilities I mentioned. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Happy to help.


----------



## kinsale

Thanks again!! I'm off to listen now


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda Signature need new mineral wool as they have had the dampening removed when I recieved them. I'm not sure why someone would do that, they do not sound good that way to me (worse then the Lambda Pro). The foam behind the pads is half disintegrated, so I'll also have to replace the pads with a pair from audiocubes II. I don't think they have the brown pads like these though, bummer.

 Any help or clues as to finding these materials?_

 

Although, as spritzer explained, the Signature did not come with the mineral wool, you can get the wool and the acoustic foam from Yama's Inc (yamasinc.com). Just shoot them an email (and be prepared to wait a bit for a reply).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, I learned something. Pads are rough, but still sealing decently, I'll just pull out the rest of the foam._

 

You can try applying some automotive vinyl cleaner/conditioner to the pads as the good ones soften them up. I use Autoglym "Vinyl and Rubber care" and it works brilliantly at bringing back the real color (without too much sheen) and softening up old pads.


----------



## manaox2

Thanks for the tip, I'll get some vinyl cleaner/conditioner. They took a little cleaning from me last night and are already starting to look better without the mulched disintegrating foam in them.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Duh!!! What an idiot I am!! I connected to the speaker terminals. You guys are the best really!_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks again!! I'm off to listen now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No idiot!
 You're certainly not the first one to have hooked up the SRD-7 wrongly, and you wont be the last.

 So, what do you think about it?


----------



## kinsale

It's funny. I came to work today where I have a hotaudio USB DAC followed by a Qinpu Q2 and my DT770 (250 Ohm). i thought the Beyers sounded really good with this setup. I really did. so I plugged in the speaker leads of the SRD-7. Boy was I shocked. It's like someone opened the curtains! The Stax are so much more realistic. The presentation reminds me of my SR60 but so much better. light years really. After a while of lisetning to the Stax I tried my DT770 again. No comparison. I can't even listen to them anymore. They have a much more receded presentation and are just not as good. I don't know what more to say. They're just not as good as the Stax. I've really screwed myself haven't I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I know why people tell Noobs to run away. 
 I've ordered new pads for them from Audiocubes. Oh also i can't listen to some of my music as the recordings are terrible. They're not very forgiving are they?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's funny. I came to work today where I have a hotaudio USB DAC followed by a Qinpu Q2 and my DT770 (250 Ohm). i thought the Beyers sounded really good with this setup. I really did. so I plugged in the speaker leads of the SRD-7. Boy was I shocked. It's like someone opened the curtains! The Stax are so much more realistic. The presentation reminds me of my SR60 but so much better. light years really. After a while of lisetning to the Stax I tried my DT770 again. No comparison. I can't even listen to them anymore. They have a much more receded presentation and are just not as good. I don't know what more to say. They're just not as good as the Stax. I've really screwed myself haven't I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Now I know why people tell Noobs to run away. 
 I've ordered new pads for them from Audiocubes. Oh also i can't listen to some of my music as the recordings are terrible. They're not very forgiving are they? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yup! you have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but it's worth it. A year ago i joined head-fi on a whim as i was after some info on a new set of cans to replace my terrible wireless surround sound panasonic plastic junk. I now sitting here with a set of Omega II mk1's and aspirations of a $5000 headphone amp! Welcome to the lost souls club 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If your reading this thread for the first time. Stop now, log out of head fi, delete the link from your favourites and never come here again. Other wise your doomed!


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Oh also i can't listen to some of my music as the recordings are terrible. They're not very forgiving are they? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is like with dentists. Some you only visit once because their work is crap and it hurts like hell.

 It is the same with recording/mastering engineers.
 Now (thanks to stax) you can tell the difference.


 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_<snip>
 After a while of lisetning to the Stax I tried my DT770 again. No comparison. I can't even listen to them anymore. They have a much more receded presentation and are just not as good. I don't know what more to say. They're just not as good as the Stax. I've really screwed myself haven't I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I know why people tell Noobs to run away._

 

Great!
 Don't say we did not warn you... Cause now you're sold.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Welcome to team Stax!


----------



## AudioCats

one quick question:
 So the wide format ribbon (at least the extension cables) uses OCC copper. 
 How about the narrow ones on Lambda, Lambda pro, etc? I would guess the narrow cables came out too early to be OCC (OCC process was developed in ~ 86, and Lambda's were introduced in the late 70's).... Anybody knows?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one quick question:
 So the wide format ribbon (at least the extension cables) uses OCC copper. 
 How about the narrow ones on Lambda, Lambda pro, etc? I would guess the narrow cables came out too early to be OCC (OCC process was developed in ~ 86, and Lambda's were introduced in the late 70's).... Anybody knows?_

 

Lambda Sig I thought used the PC-OCC cable.


----------



## AudioCats

but the sig uses wide format ribbon....


----------



## padam

The PC-OCC cable (and Pro bias) was introduced with the SR-Lambda Pro. 
 But for example the Gamma/Alpha Pro still used the OFC wire (the Alpha Pro Excellent used PC-OCC) and the SR-X Mk3 Pro used the 'ancient' cable (but with a Pro bias socket).

 The wide PC-OCC cable was introduced with the SR-Omega (and Lambda Nova Signature).


----------



## ColoradoTom

Looks like all the STAX experts are here..... I'm trying to replace tubes in my SRM-006t II setup. Could someone confirm the following...especially the pin designations.


 The procedure should be as follows:

 Turn off and unplug the SRM-006t II
 Open up the SRM-006t II
 Remove the two 6FQ7 (6CG7) tubes
 Replace the tubes with the new tubes
 Plug-in and turn on the SRM-006t II letting it warm up for 30 minutes
 Adjust DC balance to zero
 Adjust DC offset to zero.
 ***Since changes in DC balance will change DC offset and vice versa the adjustments will probably be repeated and checked several times.***
 Turn off and unplug the SRM-006t II
 Close the SRM-006t II
 Connect to source and listen to music.........

 If I face the front of the amplifier the pins of the connector should be as follows – AGAIN this is looking at the front of the amplifier towards the back and looking INTO the “female” connector

 ____3____

 4_______2

 __5____1__

 (underlines being used to keep spacing)

 To measure the DC balance I put my voltmeter probe into 2 (right +) and 5 (right -) and adjust potentiometer TVR1 for the right channel to read zero. I then move the probes to 3 (left +) and 4 (left -) and adjust potentiometer TVR1 for the left channel to read zero.


 To measure DC offset I connect one probe to 2 (right +) and the ground post at the back of the amp and adjust TVR2 for the right channel to read zero. I then move the probe to 3 (left +) and leave the other probe on the ground post and adjust TVR2 for the left channel to read zero.

 I want to make sure this is correct as I don’t want to put a probe into pin 1 – the bias voltage thinking it was pin 5. This probably wouldn't be good for me or the amplifier.


 Thanks for your help....................... 

 Tom


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes that's correct. Good luck.


----------



## ColoradoTom

Thanks Michgelsen... 

 I plan on changing out the tubes and confirming the prodedure and then doing a detailed writeup with detailed photo's when I'm done. The info has been scattered in bits and pieces in several places with some procedures seemingly contradicting others. Hopefully it will be useful for people in the future.

 Tom


----------



## Michgelsen

This thread explains it quite well, although the information for the SRM-T1/SRM-006T(II) and the SRM-007T(II) is a bit hard to discern. Great idea to make a 'how-to' with photos. Make sure to post it in a thread of its own and not here or it will get buried.


----------



## ColoradoTom

Michgelson.....

 Thanks, I'd seen portions of that thread but never the whole thing. One of the problems that I had was trying to figure out if people were talking about measuring at the headphone socket or at the rca output... I had originally thought that measuring at the rca output was the way to go (similar to measureing dc offset on a power amplifier acroos the +/- speaker leads). After seeing several pasted versions of the procedure I started to see that people were talking about the headphone jack as well. Then adding to the confusion was that sometimes it seemed like people were describing the pins from the standpoint of the "male" plug and other times it seemed like the discussion was from the view facing the "female" jack. Anyway, I will try to give back by making a VERY detailed and photographed procedure that can be used by others in the future.

 Thanks again for the help.........

 Tom


----------



## Michgelsen

You're welcome. Thank you in advance for making the detailed instruction. I'm sure a lot of people will find it useful.
Here is a helpful picture of the output of a Stax amp by the way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one quick question:
 So the wide format ribbon (at least the extension cables) uses OCC copper. 
 How about the narrow ones on Lambda, Lambda pro, etc? I would guess the narrow cables came out too early to be OCC (OCC process was developed in ~ 86, and Lambda's were introduced in the late 70's).... Anybody knows?_

 

The oldest ribbon cable, which is still used on the SR-202, is just OFC. Then in 1987 Stax introduced (Sr-Lambda Signature/Sigma Pro) the PC-OCC versions of that cable and it looks identical (though 3 different colors out there) except for the gold plated plugs. The Wide PC-OCC was introduced with the SR-Omega in 1993 and there were obviously plans for some more cable research (as the Omega has detachable cables) but the company folded before anything materialized.


----------



## ColoradoTom

Arrrrgggggg....... 

 Yes, that's what I've been looking for!! Thank you and thanks to jigster as well!!

 Tom


----------



## kinsale

Guys,
 Whats the difference between a SRD-7 and a SRD-7SB? I know SB stands for self-bias. What does that mean and why is it better. Or is it? 
 Ian


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys,
 Whats the difference between a SRD-7 and a SRD-7SB? I know SB stands for self-bias. What does that mean and why is it better. Or is it? 
 Ian_

 

As the name implies the SRD-7SB is self biasing, the SRD-7 was not. Simplified production and reduced costs [removed the need of a seperate AC power supply].


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ColoradoTom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Arrrrgggggg....... 

 Yes, that's what I've been looking for!! Thank you and thanks to jigster as well!!

 Tom_

 

You're welcome.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The oldest ribbon cable, which is still used on the SR-202, is just OFC. Then in 1987 Stax introduced (Sr-Lambda Signature/Sigma Pro) the PC-OCC versions of that cable and it looks identical (though 3 different colors out there) except for the gold plated plugs. The Wide PC-OCC was introduced with the SR-Omega in 1993 and there were obviously plans for some more cable research (as the *Omega has detachable cables*) but the company folded before anything materialized._

 

interesting.....


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys,
 Whats the difference between a SRD-7 and a SRD-7SB? I know SB stands for self-bias. What does that mean and why is it better. Or is it? 
 Ian_

 

I have the srd7-sb. I have never been able to find a satisfying answer as to the actual difference as compared to the srd-7. From what I have been told and read, the self biasing brings out more dynamics, while the non sb version brings out more highs and lows.. I recall something about soundstaging, but I dont remember exactly what. I have not had the opportunity to compare the two versions.. so there you have it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As the name implies the SRD-7SB is self biasing, the SRD-7 was not. Simplified production and reduced costs [removed the need of a seperate AC power supply]._

 

One extra transformer is certainly more expensive then a power cord so the SB's were more expensive to make. They were more convenient for the end user and their impact on SQ is debatable as the bias supply is isolated from the audio side by a transformer. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_interesting....._

 

You can see the connector here. It's nice to see some of my pictures there... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You really have to remove the outer screen to grab a hold of the cable but it is only held in place with friction.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the srd7-sb. I have never been able to find a satisfying answer as to the actual difference as compared to the srd-7. From what I have been told and read, the self biasing brings out more dynamics, while the non sb version brings out more highs and lows.. I recall something about soundstaging, but I dont remember exactly what. I have not had the opportunity to compare the two versions.. so there you have it._

 

I have owned 2 of each and the biggest difference in audio i heard was that the sb version seemed a little quieter. Not a lot but enough to make a difference. Essentially the sb version takes a feed from a specific secondary on each of the transformers and apply a voltage multiplier to the ac voltage to create your bias. I certainly wouldnt say that one is more dynamic than the other nor does one have more highs and lows than the other.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can see the connector here. It's nice to see some of my pictures there... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You really have to remove the outer screen to grab a hold of the cable but it is only held in place with friction._

 

Interesting pictures, so the 001 is really more of a mini Omega instead of a mini O2....


----------



## spritzer

I'd say the removable cable on the 001/003 is there out of necessity rather then anything else. The cable is very fragile but it has to be this thin to be portable. The plug also makes for an easy connection to the drivers with the pins in the socket being parts of the stators and diaphragm. 

 In terms of sound I've never quite got the link between the mini Stax and the O2's as they don't sound similar to my ears and even less so with the SR-Omega.


----------



## edstrelow

I was keeping an eye on an SRM1Mk2 amp, which came with a lambda pro. I don't need the phones but wanted the amp. Anyway the pair sold for $713.50 on Ebay. This has got to be a new high. About 2 months ago I got a more recent version of this amp, shipped from Europe for $297.00 Surely the phones aren't worth $400.00. Seems like a new high in inflation for vintage Stax.


----------



## AudioCats

The LP's might go even higher after the recession, especially if the "poorman's ES amp" can deliever good sound.


----------



## kinsale

This maybe a stupid question but what impedance does the SRD-7 present to an amplifier? I'm looking at amplifiers to drive my SRD-7/SR-X Mk3.
 I currently run a Qinpu Q2 (5Wx2)and it feels like I need more headroom. Any suggestions for something to drive the SRD?
 Also I ordered new pads for the SR-X. Are any there any other compatible pads out there that might improve the comfort and/or sound?
 Thanks


----------



## scompton

I asked this same question when I got my first Stax and I was told 8 ohms. I asked because my amp has a switch for 4 or 8 ohms.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was keeping an eye on an SRM1Mk2 amp, which came with a lambda pro. I don't need the phones but wanted the amp. Anyway the pair sold for $713.50 on Ebay. This has got to be a new high. About 2 months ago I got a more recent version of this amp, shipped from Europe for $297.00 Surely the phones aren't worth $400.00. Seems like a new high in inflation for vintage Stax._

 

Summer of 07 the Lambda Pro's were going between $400-500. The SRM-1mk2 Pro was going between $350-450. I have seen a lot of vintage audio gear drop in recent months. The only exception is McIntosh and Marantz tube gear.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This maybe a stupid question but what impedance does the SRD-7 present to an amplifier? I'm looking at amplifiers to drive my SRD-7/SR-X Mk3.
 I currently run a Qinpu Q2 (5Wx2)and it feels like I need more headroom. Any suggestions for something to drive the SRD?
 Also I ordered new pads for the SR-X. Are any there any other compatible pads out there that might improve the comfort and/or sound?
 Thanks_

 

Yesterday, I installed new pads on my SR-X as well and it is less uncomfortable now so it does worth to replace it. If you fancy a bit of modding, Omega II pads with a ring adapter and Gamma headband can be installed which makes it comfortable (maybe even better sounding as well when using different pads) but the parts cost can be quite expensive.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was keeping an eye on an SRM1Mk2 amp, which came with a lambda pro. I don't need the phones but wanted the amp. Anyway the pair sold for $713.50 on Ebay. This has got to be a new high. About 2 months ago I got a more recent version of this amp, shipped from Europe for $297.00 Surely the phones aren't worth $400.00. Seems like a new high in inflation for vintage Stax._

 

$700 is not an awesome deal, but more about average I would say.
 Sure you can be lucky to score a great deal like the $297 (shipped) SRM-1/MK2. But that is more a rarity than the rule.

 The condition of the units also make quite a noticeable impact on the selling price.


----------



## n3rdling

A mint LNS went for 250 recently; I was probably minutes away from scoring them


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A mint LNS went for 250 recently; I was probably minutes away from scoring them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

audiogon? Seen that for a while, I was sad too.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A mint LNS went for 250 recently; I was probably minutes away from scoring them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, someone got a great deal there I think.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Summer of 07 the Lambda Pro's were going between $400-500._

 

That was a crazy time for us! Stax Fever was in full effect here!

 On another note, in theory I should have both a Sonic Frontiers SFD-2 Mk.III and Stax SR-X Mk.III/Pro by the end of this week... talk about an impending eargasm!


----------



## Duckman

Thinking about purchasing the SRM-3 driver on sale here, but I live in Australia where we have 240 volt power. Any tips about how to go about converting the unit to 240 volts, or would I be safer getting Stax USA to do it?


----------



## spritzer

I've never converted a SRM-3 so I'm not sure what you would have to do. The transformer on some of the models is soldered to a PCB so there could be a a row of bridges that have to be connected in the right order. 

 Btw. You should know that the SRM-3 is one of the worst Stax amps out there and I much prefer the older SRM-1 Mk2.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thinking about purchasing the SRM-3 driver on sale here, but I live in Australia where we have 240 volt power. Any tips about how to go about converting the unit to 240 volts, or would I be safer getting Stax USA to do it?_

 

The easy route is to just buy a voltage transformer. Some of the gear i've used in the past has been 117v and 100v so i just bought a fairly decent transformer. This also tends to help with the sound quality in some instances if you happen to have a very poor ac line i.e. it acts as an isolation transformer as well and some of them have an emi filter. This way it doesn't matter what volts the device works at or whether it can be reconfigured it will work wherever you are.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never converted a SRM-3 so I'm not sure what you would have to do. The transformer on some of the models is soldered to a PCB so there could be a a row of bridges that have to be connected in the right order. 

 Btw. You should know that the SRM-3 is one of the worst Stax amps out there and I much prefer the older SRM-1 Mk2._

 

I have them both and wouldn't want to suggest that the SRM3 is a bad product. There are likely lesser models, such as the various portables and mini-amps. I find the SRM1Mk2 has a bit more dynamics, probably because of its ability to generate more voltage to the drivers. It has a bit of harshness compared to the SRM3. For some reason Stax reduced the output voltage on most of its tube and transistor amps after the SRM1Mk2. I think this works well with the phones that are easier to drive such as Lambdas but the harder phones, such as the Sigma Pro's and various Omegas seem to need higher voltages. I use my SRM1Mk2 mostly to run a Sigma/404.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A mint LNS went for 250 recently; I was probably minutes away from scoring them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just won a re-conditioned pair from Yahoo Auctions for $220, with new dust filter and something about amending the gap. It will be interesting to compare them to my SR-5NBs, which I'm smitten with. My new DAC arrived today, so I'm just about complete with my rig.

 I'm not the only one who likes the SR-5NBs...






 She was listening (quietly) to some mambo.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just won a re-conditioned pair from Yahoo Auctions for $220, with new dust filter and something about amending the gap._

 

You should know that re-conditioned or refurbished Stax usually involves throwing out the old drivers and replacing them with what ever is in current production. That would mean SR-303/404 drivers and that's not a good thing in this case. It's easy to check as the LNS drivers have a gold anodized ring around the drivers (which you can see through the chassis) and the SR-303/404 have a red ring.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not the only one who likes the SR-5NBs...

http://currawong.net/gallery2/d/8556-2/Stax_baby_.jpg

 She was listening (quietly) to some mambo._

 

Cute! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 One should start early to be a great Head-Fi'er... he he


----------



## vvanrij

He's saying '_westside!', _just look at that hand gesture.


----------



## lisnalee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvanrij* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_He's saying 'westside!', just look at that hand gesture._

 

Lol 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A very cute baby head-fier Currawong


----------



## Headphone Jack

Is the SRM-717 a large step up from the SRM-1 MKII? I had the latter briefly and it was nice but perhaps a little less dynamic and a little lacking in tonal depth than what I was looking for.

 My SRM-1 wasn't working correctly (humming issue) so perhaps another unit would sound a bit better?


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lisnalee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lol 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 A very cute baby head-fier Currawong_

 

now that is a baby stax...
 seriously brought a grin to my face.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headphone Jack* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the SRM-717 a large step up from the SRM-1 MKII? I had the latter briefly and it was nice but perhaps a little less dynamic and a little lacking in tonal depth than what I was looking for.

 My SRM-1 wasn't working correctly (humming issue) so perhaps another unit would sound a bit better?_

 

Yes, certainly if it doesn't hum. 

 It is certainly better with the less efficient phones such as the 007A and Sigma/404 or Sigma/pro. More oomph to the sound. There appears to be an emerging consensus in this forum that it is the best of the Stax transistor amps. 

 I don't think it would matter much for the more efficient phones such as the Lambdas and SR003.

 The SRM1MK2 is considered about the best of the older Stax transistor amps and I find it pretty good with the Sigma/404. 

 Recently, however I compared it in low bias operation with the SRA12S Preamp/headphone amp and preferred the SRA12S, at least when it had a PS Audio Noise Harvester plugged into its power outlet.


----------



## indikator

Greetings fellow staxen, I have a question here, can I use 100v amp with 110 voltage? I've yet to find a step down trafo to 100v, 110V one is more common here


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should know that re-conditioned or refurbished Stax usually involves throwing out the old drivers and replacing them with what ever is in current production. That would mean SR-303/404 drivers and that's not a good thing in this case. It's easy to check as the LNS drivers have a gold anodized ring around the drivers (which you can see through the chassis) and the SR-303/404 have a red ring._

 

Thanks for letting me know about that. There was no mention in the auction about the drivers being replaced, only the dust filter and something I don't understand about checking a gap. Here's the dodgy Google translation:

  Quote:


 3 was obtained in 2007 at our auction. Aging state is completely finished, give a very cheerful tone. April 2007 Year in STAX pad, the dust filter replacement for this body, SP gap of an amendment to the mounting unit, check that the other abnormalities have been reported missing. Appearance may have a certain feel. I have a good sound when the seller.


----------



## Headphone Jack

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, certainly if it doesn't hum. 

 It is certainly better with the less efficient phones such as the 007A and Sigma/404 or Sigma/pro. More oomph to the sound. There appears to be an emerging consensus in this forum that it is the best of the Stax transistor amps. 

 I don't think it would matter much for the more efficient phones such as the Lambdas and SR003.

 The SRM1MK2 is considered about the best of the older Stax transistor amps and I find it pretty good with the Sigma/404. 

 Recently, however I compared it in low bias operation with the SRA12S Preamp/headphone amp and preferred the SRA12S, at least when it had a PS Audio Noise Harvester plugged into its power outlet._

 

Thanks for the reply! 

 If there is little difference between the two I'd be more inclined to wait out another SRM-1. But when we are talking about the Lambda's being more efficient are we talking about the volume or the control of the music at any volume? Basically what I am saying is that the SRM-1 was plenty powerful, and able to my SR-404 to ear bleeding volumes, but I would like to know if the SRM-717 is a substantial difference in the quality of sound at any volume output. If the SRM-717 would add some "ooomph" and bring more tonal colours into the pallet that would be awesome! 

 I am new to Stax and don't claim to know as much as you seasoned veterans (ahem, spritzer)! Just wanting to join the gang. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On Stax withdrawal... need new amp. lol


----------



## John Buchanan

The SRM1 Mk 2 I had (an A series) had no hum whatsoever at full volume, so something wasn't right with the one you had. It was an excellent amplifier, but the 717 sounds smoother and more dynamic.


----------



## kinsale

Hi all,
 I'm enjoying my SR-X Mk3. However I feel they are not quite what I'm looking for. I'd like a little wider soundstage. I also feel that some instruments get masked when more than a couple are playing at the same time. They are also quite tiresome to wear for a long time. I think I might like Stax in general. I like the realism and how fast they are. Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all,
 I'm enjoying my SR-X Mk3. However I feel they are not quite what I'm looking for. I'd like a little wider soundstage. I also feel that some instruments get masked when more than a couple are playing at the same time. They are also quite tiresome to wear for a long time. I think I might like Stax in general. I like the realism and how fast they are. Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2_

 

about the masking, are you sure that's not something in the master or mix down? any lambda are known for better soundstage: ie 202 on up. i have a normal bias lambda and they have ruined all my other headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i do listen to them all however and enjoy them for what they do. i'm sure you will too. even if and when you move up or on however you'd like to interperate that.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all,
 I'm enjoying my SR-X Mk3. However I feel they are not quite what I'm looking for. I'd like a little wider soundstage. I also feel that some instruments get masked when more than a couple are playing at the same time. They are also quite tiresome to wear for a long time. I think I might like Stax in general. I like the realism and how fast they are. Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2_

 

Try a lambda, they are very comfortable to wear i.e. hours an hours on end and should give you a wider soundstage. You may have to find a pro bias amp or energizer for them unless you are lucky enough to find a pair of normal bias lambdas. A set if lambda pro's is a good starting point although they are not considered to be the best of the lambdas. If you want very wide apparently the sigma pro's are the king of soundstage although i haven't heard them myself.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2_

 

You need a much better source for the Stax otherwise it doesn't worth to get it, really. Especially with the SR-X Mk3 which is unforgiving to the source. Did it have leather pads? I replaced mine and after one or two days it got much more comfortable.
 Getting something from the Classic line should be a worthwhile upgrade. The SRM-3 isn't said to be great, but probably a cheap option to go with it. Like the one that is for sale and looks lightly used, but the seller is a new member.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headphone Jack* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply! 

 If there is little difference between the two I'd be more inclined to wait out another SRM-1. But when we are talking about the Lambda's being more efficient are we talking about the volume or the control of the music at any volume? Basically what I am saying is that the SRM-1 was plenty powerful, and able to my SR-404 to ear bleeding volumes, but I would like to know if the SRM-717 is a substantial difference in the quality of sound at any volume output. If the SRM-717 would add some "ooomph" and bring more tonal colours into the pallet that would be awesome! 

 I am new to Stax and don't claim to know as much as you seasoned veterans (ahem, spritzer)! Just wanting to join the gang. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On Stax withdrawal... need new amp. lol_

 

I have a SRM-1mk2 Pro, 717 & 007t. The 717 and 007t sound very similar but the 717 has more extension, power and dynamics. The 717 is considerably better than the SRM-1mk2 Pro. It is much smoother in the upper midrange and treble. It has a bigger soundstage, better low level detail, tighter and deeper bass. I think that the 717 and 007t are the very best of the available Stax amps. If you ever upgrade to a O2 the 717 is a great choice.


----------



## Currawong

Moving to the 007t for my SR-5NBs made for a huge jump. I have spent a 2-3 weeks simply not listening to even the O2s at all, until today.


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need a much better source for the Stax otherwise it doesn't worth to get it, really. Especially with the SR-X Mk3 which is unforgiving to the source. Did it have leather pads? I replaced mine and after one or two days it got much more comfortable.
 Getting something from the Classic line should be a worthwhile upgrade. The SRM-3 isn't said to be great, but probably a cheap option to go with it. Like the one that is for sale and looks lightly used, but the seller is a new member._

 

How would you improve the source? Is it the DAC or Itunes? I use mainly 320kpbs mp3. Does everyone agree that I should look to the source and not upgrade the headphones?

 My line up is Itunes(320k) > USB Hot Audio DAC > Qinpu Q2


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all,
 I'm enjoying my SR-X Mk3. However I feel they are not quite what I'm looking for. I'd like a little wider soundstage. I also feel that some instruments get masked when more than a couple are playing at the same time. They are also quite tiresome to wear for a long time. I think I might like Stax in general. I like the realism and how fast they are. Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2_

 

Since you probably have an SRD-7 with your SR-X/MK3 I suggest you pick up a different Normal bias Stax'en. The SR-Lambda might be the most obvious choice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can always go Pro bias, but then you need a new transformer (SRD-7Pro or MK2) or an energizer (direct driven amplifier).


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I use mainly 320kpbs mp3._

 






 Tom


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 Tom_

 

I listen at work. I'm in front of a computer for almost 8 hours straight. This is when I get a chance to listen to music. So if the mystery is solved that I listen to 320 kpbs mp3, am I wasting my time trying to improve my system? I'd love to have a high end cd player with a high end DAC but that's not going to happen.


----------



## bralk

I was joking a bit - but have you tried playing AIFF or lossless instead of bit reduced files ? 

 I also use iTunes as my main playback source, but have settled on AIFF.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all,
 I'm enjoying my SR-X Mk3. However I feel they are not quite what I'm looking for. I'd like a little wider soundstage. I also feel that some instruments get masked when more than a couple are playing at the same time. They are also quite tiresome to wear for a long time. I think I might like Stax in general. I like the realism and how fast they are. Any ideas on what I can move up to?
 My line up is Itunes>Hot Audio USB DAC> Qinpu Q2_

 

The SRX3 is an interesting phone they sound quite smooth and neutral over a wide range of frequencies. They are a bit deficient in bass and somewhat lacking in tonal detail. I would have thought that a slight bass boost might make them more acceptable. Often adding bass seems to enhance the soundstage. Since you are using the transformer, I am assuming there are some tone controls there too. 

 For full time listening they can be a bit fatiguing and they do press on the ears. 

 Sticking with low bias phones, the original Lambda could be a good choice as well as a low bias Sigma. Every time I change from SRX3 to Sigma low, I am impressed by the listenability of the Sigma. It has a more overall bass than either the SRX3 or the Lambda. The Lambda series will give more really deep bass but otherwise is not bassy sounding. 

 The Sigma is the big boxy set of phones. Aside from its bulk it is very comfortable to wear because nothing presses on the ears and it is cool in hot weather. Its main claim to fame though is its more realistic sound presentation, the drivers (same as the Lambdas) are mounted ahead of the ears firing backwards, in an attempt to give a soundfield more like sound sources in front of you. Virtually every other headphone out there fires sound directly into the ear-drum which is not the way most concert sound will reach your ear. For me they give a more open, less claustrophobic sound field than regular phones and sometime even make me think I am listening to external sounds, or that I have left my speakers on. They could be good with a transformer set-up because you can poibably get some good dynamics out of them, certainly better than with the smaller Stax headphone amps.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I listen at work. I'm in front of a computer for almost 8 hours straight. This is when I get a chance to listen to music. So if the mystery is solved that I listen to 320 kpbs mp3, am I wasting my time trying to improve my system? I'd love to have a high end cd player with a high end DAC but that's not going to happen._

 

I'll be heretical and say that, for me, 320kbps would be fine. 

 I've never passed an ABX test between 128 kbps and lossless. I do listen to lossless on my computer because I want it for an archive. 

 Rip some of your tracks to lossless and abx them to see if you can hear the difference. If you can't, that's not your problem.

 I doubt if your description of masking is caused by the bit rate. Did you not hear the masking with dynamic headphones with the same DAC and amp?


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was joking a bit - but have you tried playing AIFF or lossless instead of bit reduced files ? 

 I also use iTunes as my main playback source, but have settled on AIFF.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

No offense taken Tom 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will certainly try ripping some Cds in AIFF and see if it helps. Thanks!


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll be heretical and say that, for me, 320kbps would be fine. 

 I've never passed an ABX test between 128 kbps and lossless. I do listen to lossless on my computer because I want it for an archive. 

 Rip some of your tracks to lossless and abx them to see if you can hear the difference. If you can't, that's not your problem.

 I doubt if your description of masking is caused by the bit rate. Did you not hear the masking with dynamic headphones with the same DAC and amp?_

 

Yes I did hear the masking before. I guess what has happened is that my standards have suddenly risen a lot from listening to the Stax. I do enjoy them but I think it has shown me clearly how good it could possibly be. Does that make sense? I guess its like driving a fast car. The speed wears off after a while and you wish it could corner better or had comfier seats.


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRX3 is an interesting phone they sound quite smooth and neutral over a wide range of frequencies. They are a bit deficient in bass and somewhat lacking in tonal detail. I would have thought that a slight bass boost might make them more acceptable. Often adding bass seems to enhance the soundstage. Since you are using the transformer, I am assuming there are some tone controls there too. 

 For full time listening they can be a bit fatiguing and they do press on the ears. 

 Sticking with low bias phones, the original Lambda could be a good choice as well as a low bias Sigma. Every time I change from SRX3 to Sigma low, I am impressed by the listenability of the Sigma. It has a more overall bass than either the SRX3 or the Lambda. The Lambda series will give more really deep bass but otherwise is not bassy sounding. 

 The Sigma is the big boxy set of phones. Aside from its bulk it is very comfortable to wear because nothing presses on the ears and it is cool in hot weather. Its main claim to fame though is its more realistic sound presentation, the drivers (same as the Lambdas) are mounted ahead of the ears firing backwards, in an attempt to give a soundfield more like sound sources in front of you. Virtually every other headphone out there fires sound directly into the ear-drum which is not the way most concert sound will reach your ear. For me they give a more open, less claustrophobic sound field than regular phones and sometime even make me think I am listening to external sounds, or that I have left my speakers on. They could be good with a transformer set-up because you can poibably get some good dynamics out of them, certainly better than with the smaller Stax headphone amps._

 

I'll certainly try and pick up a pair of Sigmas. They look really interesting. I like how you say the drivers fire from in front instead of into the eardrum. I've always found headphones a little annoying because of that. I liked a crossfeed feature on an amp I had once for that reason.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll certainly try and pick up a pair of Sigmas. They look really interesting. I like how you say the drivers fire from in front instead of into the eardrum. I've always found headphones a little annoying because of that. I liked a crossfeed feature on an amp I had once for that reason._

 

Bear in mind they are much harder to drive than Lambdas, it is probably cheaper to get an SRD-7 adapter and a speaker amp for them. And believe me, source matters, especially for electrostatics. Get the best DAC you can find within the budget you define for yourself. Even the used interconnect cable can matter.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In terms of sound I've never quite got the link between the mini Stax and the O2's as they don't sound similar to my ears and even less so with the SR-Omega._

 


 what I meant was the 001's construction style is more similar to the Omega, with modular components (such as the diaphragm ring), and cable connects directly to the component, no soldering/wiring.


----------



## Kabeer

Hi,

 Does anyone have any old uneeded Stax Sigma pads? (or something identical)?
 Please PM or email me.

 Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Doug got the last of my used Sigma pads unfortunately. I do have some new ones that I can sell you at less then what AC2 are asking for them...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what I meant was the 001's construction style is more similar to the Omega, with modular components (such as the diaphragm ring), and cable connects directly to the component, no soldering/wiring._

 

All Stax headphones have the diaphragm mounted to a ring of some sorts. The SR-007 and SR-001/003 do share the use of massive air damping. In fact there are only about 1/5th of the stators on the Sr-001/003 perforated.


----------



## manaox2

Ortho heads are going to start hustling the Stax thread for pads.


----------



## indikator

Hi spritzer, I got srm-1/mk2 which don't have voltage selector and it reads 100V only, can you explain your post in here once more
The Stax thread (New) - Page 390 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio
 the pics already down


----------



## Kabeer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Doug got the last of my used Sigma pads unfortunately. I do have some new ones that I can sell you at less then what AC2 are asking for them..._

 

Thanks dude i'll pm you, but I was kinda hoping to go totally ghetto even on costs thereby used pads seemed a good idea hehe.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ortho heads are going to start hustling the Stax thread for pads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi spritzer, I got srm-1/mk2 which don't have voltage selector and it reads 100V only, can you explain your post in here once more
The Stax thread (New) - Page 390 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio
 the pics already down
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The pic is back up now but I'll also include it here:





 When you open up your unit you'll notice that the wiring isn't as pictured but the picture is how it would look if there was a voltage selector. What I do is move the wires to this configuration and then bridge them to the right order. You can also just leave them as is, just follow the guide and join the wires. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kabeer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks dude i'll pm you, but I was kinda hoping to go totally ghetto even on costs thereby used pads seemed a good idea hehe._

 

I'll drop you a PM to see if we can't work something out...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Is it possible for a single-ended headphone amp (Luxman P-1) to power a SRD-7/SB to drive a SR-Lambda?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it possible for a single-ended headphone amp (Luxman P-1) to power a SRD-7/SB to drive a SR-Lambda?_

 

Very unlikely.
 Since its headphone jacks probably don't have high output watt output to drive the Stax combo. In short you need speaker taps to hook up the SRD-7.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Luxman P-1 [P-1] - $2,400.00 : TTVJ, Todd The Vinyl Junkie

 It can only put 4 Watts per channel into 8 Ohms. How much power does the SRD-7/SB require?


----------



## Tachikoma

Thats enough, actually. A friend of mine ran his SR-Xs from a Dynalow, so that should be plenty.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Luxman P-1 [P-1] - $2,400.00 : TTVJ, Todd The Vinyl Junkie

 It can only put 4 Watts per channel into 8 Ohms. How much power does the SRD-7/SB require?_

 

Then I probably have retract my previous answer.
 Cause the P-1 is more powerful (higher wattage) than most headphone amplifiers, and 4 watts should be enough for the Stax system.


----------



## scompton

I curious what the Luxman was designed to drive. 4 watts out of a headphone jack will kill most headphones.


----------



## Duggeh

4 watts into 8 ohms is nominally 2 watts into 16 ohms, 1 into 32, 0.5 into 64 etc. Most headphones start at 32 and move up to 300.

 Theres only one headphone I can think of which has an impedance of around 4-ohms and isn't a 70's paper cone job.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then I probably have retract my previous answer.
 Cause the P-1 is more powerful (higher wattage) than most headphone amplifiers, and 4 watts should be enough for the Stax system._

 

My Eddie Current ZDT on order puts out 8 watts into 8 ohm from the speaker out, but the headphone out I believe is 3 watts into 32 ohm and 300 mw into 300 ohm - perfect for my SRD-7 Pro, K1000, Grado RS-1 and HD800 on order. And, with the 4-pin XLR in the front I can plug in my HD600 and D2000 or K1000 for the balanced transformer driven output. I can't wait!


----------



## Duckman

Silimar questions might have been asked somewhere in this thread, but you know... 

 Has anyone had stellar success powering their earspeakers with their home stereo amps + transformer? And if so, what were they? Are some combinations well known to be particularly effective?

 I'm contemplating a stax setup on a budget, but wonder whether it would be more cost effective using say a budget NAD amp (C315BEE: 40 watts) with a transformer box, than to purchase one of the better regarded Stax amps second hand... thinking on the level of SRM-T1W or SRM-1 MkII; and whether it would involve any serious sacrifice in sound quality.

 Cheers,

 Dave


----------



## scompton

I've been using a NAD 3155 for a while. I recently bought a Realistic STA-2200 but I haven't tried it yet. It's too big for the table I have my gear on.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Silimar questions might have been asked somewhere in this thread, but you know... 

 Has anyone had stellar success powering their earspeakers with their home stereo amps + transformer? And if so, what were they? Are some combinations well known to be particularly effective?

 I'm contemplating a stax setup on a budget, but wonder whether it would be more cost effective using say a budget NAD amp (C315BEE: 40 watts) with a transformer box, than to purchase one of the better regarded Stax amps second hand... thinking on the level of SRM-T1W or SRM-1 MkII; and whether it would involve any serious sacrifice in sound quality.

 Cheers,

 Dave_

 

The direct drive amps with anything but O2 will have better detail and refinement, and still enough power. The speaker amp and transformer has more power to drive the difficult to drive O2 Mk1 and Mk2. I also kinda like the HE60 on the transformers, as it adds some bass punch to them.

 I have had good results with small desktop headphone amps that have speaker outs - see my public profile "about me" for links to reviews of the ones below. If these below can drive the transformers well, I see no reason why the 40 watt NAD shouldn't do well too. 

 Travagans Red and Green: 5 watt/ch very good driving Stax transformer, even a pro bias one with O2 Mk1 and Mk2, but less volume with O2 than an 8-watt or 12-watt amp. Have also tried driving my SR-Lambda and SR-5NB and it was very good. Opamp rollable to tune the sound, stock is still very nice with O2 or Lambda. Not as good with book shelf HT speakers and really needs a 90+ dB/mw speaker to shine. Very good with dynamic headphones as well.

 Nuforce Icon: Decent DAC on the level of the DAC in 3MOVE or XM5 or Predator, with 2 line-in. It's 12 watts gives enough power to the Stax O2. Mids are slightly more forward than Travagans and the cables with banana plugs means having to affix female banana jacks on the SRD-7 transformer. Much better as a speaker amp than as a dynamic headphone amp - plenty of power for HD600 via headphone amp but not as much detail as the speaker out or pre-amp out.

 Qinpu A-3: Just reviewed tube hybrid. Again better speaker out than headphone out, but the headphone out is actually a pre-amp out that can drive headphones (high impedance better than low impedance). The 8.5 watt/ch speaker out with SRD-7 Pro sounded very good with O2 Mk1 vs the maxed GES, albeit with less detail and refinement than GES but better power and dynamics.


----------



## plaidplatypus

I think the Gilmore designed amps are better than any transformer + amp combo I've heard but on a budget a SRM-1/MK-2 is good. If you are thinking about Pro biased earspeakers the SRM-313 is OK. The SRM-007t my favorite STAX brand amp for the Lambda earspeakers. I could sell you my T-amp cheap, it's powerful enough for a transformer and SR-Lambda. I've also tried an EL-84 amp that I like but the bass is a bit heavy. The NAD gear I've heard hasn't made me excited but didn't offend me.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Silimar questions might have been asked somewhere in this thread, but you know... 

 Has anyone had stellar success powering their earspeakers with their home stereo amps + transformer? And if so, what were they? Are some combinations well known to be particularly effective?

 I'm contemplating a stax setup on a budget, but wonder whether it would be more cost effective using say a budget NAD amp (C315BEE: 40 watts) with a transformer box, than to purchase one of the better regarded Stax amps second hand... thinking on the level of SRM-T1W or SRM-1 MkII; and whether it would involve any serious sacrifice in sound quality.

 Cheers,

 Dave_

 

Excellent starting point, I actually prefer the sound of an srd7 with a NAD 3020 amp over the sound of an srm1 mk2 but thats just me. The t1 amps are on another level with everything but the Omega's and Sigmas. 

 I started with an energizer and a NAD amp and was very happy with that setup. From what i've learned through experience if i had to do it again, I would get either a t1 amp or an srd7 with a decent t amp (10w is plenty) until you are ready for omegas. 

 At that point keep the srd7 MkII and get the omegas as they need the extra drive then finally get a 717 or gilmore design and live a life of headphone bliss.


----------



## mark_h

My T1 is *perfectly* adequate with my O2's insofar as I have absolutely no complaints about any part of the sound signature and have no intention of upgrading to anything short of a blue Hawaii The T series of amps were in fact used with the Omega's and produced up until the mid to late 90's.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My T1 is *perfectly* adequate with my O2's insofar as I have absolutely no complaints about any part of the sound signature and have no intention of upgrading to anything short of a blue Hawaii The T series of amps were in fact used with the Omega's and produced up until the mid to late 90's._

 

Opinions vary but i find that the T1 series lacks the dynamics and control with the omegas and in fact i prefer them with my srd7. A T1 series is exactly as you say adequate it doesn't do anything wrong as such it's just that the omegas are capable of more as i have found with using an srd 7 with them.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Gilmore designed amps are better than any transformer + amp combo I've heard but on a budget a SRM-1/MK-2 is good. If you are thinking about Pro biased earspeakers the SRM-313 is OK. The SRM-007t my favorite STAX brand amp for the Lambda earspeakers. I could sell you my T-amp cheap, it's powerful enough for a transformer and SR-Lambda. I've also tried an EL-84 amp that I like but the bass is a bit heavy. The NAD gear I've heard hasn't made me excited but didn't offend me._

 

Unless you are talking about the O2 Mk1.


----------



## AudioCats

yeah, the larger transformer boxes shine with larger/difficult phones.

 For easy-to-drive stuff such as the Lambda, a T1 of some kind is probably the best choice.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah, the larger transformer boxes shine with larger/difficult phones.

 For easy-to-drive stuff such as the Lambda, a T1 of some kind is probably the best choice._

 

I was very pleased with Sherwood's T1 and Lambdas, ESP950 and HE60 - it was pretty close to the Prototype GES we compared it to side by side.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was very pleased with Sherwood's T1 and Lambdas, ESP950 and HE60 - it was pretty close to the Prototype GES we compared it to side by side._

 

Thanks to Tyler, its my T1 now. It is very sweet indeed! I also just rolled some brand new Toshibas from Spritzer in it tonight, its kept me very excited.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to Tyler, its my T1 now. It is very sweet indeed! I also just rolled some brand new Toshibas from Spritzer in it tonight, its kept me very excited. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice.


----------



## Duckman

Thanks for the info, guys.

 I'm also idly wondering about Gig's Lambda Nova Classic and SRM-3 for sale. Does anyone know how the LN Classic stands up against the popular LNSignature?


----------



## Currawong

I've just picked up my LNS. We checked and there are definitely gold rings. They were in a 404 box which worried me for a minute. The only thing in poor condition is the headband. It was a lucky score, as the seller lives locally and works nearby, so they could be picked up. They sound sweet too.

 Duckman: I found this review that might be helpful to you.


----------



## Duckman

Thanks Currawong. I've seen that comparative review, which made me curious about the LNS, naturally. 

 I guess what I'm asking is whether the LNC and the LNS share a similar sound signature, just as the current 303 and 404 models are said to be fairly similar.


----------



## Yikes

Hello All, I am looking to borrow a set of Omega Mk-II's for a week or so to see if they will work well with my Woo GES, or perhaps get together and have a very small meet (Where noise wouldn't be an issue) somewhere along the Philadelphia NY corridor.

 PM me if interested.

 Thanks

 Yikes
 Ethan


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice._

 

Nice indeed. The Sherwood factory outlet is knee deep in deals 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The T1 was and is a sweet amp, without a doubt.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice indeed. The Sherwood factory outlet is knee deep in deals 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The T1 was and is a sweet amp, without a doubt._

 

I've been meaning to ask you why you've been shedding such nice equipment lately...


----------



## malldian

Say max $350 for a electrostatic rig... 202 system or try to go for a Lambda rig?


----------



## Currawong

An interesting thing about the Lambda Nova Sigs is a comment in the Stereophile review of them:

  Quote:


 There is still the slightest hint of roughness in the upper-mids/low-highs region... 
 

I have to agree with this. When I first put them on this afternoon, I felt they weren't as smooth as they could possibly be.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Just received my pair today from antonyfirst... unbelievable! I haven't dragged out my normal bias SR-X Mk.III yet to compare but these murder the SR-404s, and my memory of the SR-007 Mk.I hooked up to an ES-1 with my D1 as source... initially I wasn't sure they didn't give up some of the normal bias SR-X Mk.III midrange magic, but I think it's more to do with the fact that the normal bias version simply has no bottom or top so you concentrate on the midrange completely... will check this out when I drag the nomral bias cans out... 

 The bass is UNBELIEVABLE! It's absolutely PERFECT! It is certainly deep enough but more importantly it is SUPER fast and taut, these things start and stop on a DIME with ZERO overhang... best bass I have ever heard from a headphone, period. 

 My jaw keeps hitting the floor and "wow" comes out, on tracks I have heard four hundred and eighty seven thousand times... these things do NOT hide anything and do NOT lie about anything! In highly produced multi-track music, every track, every instrument/air/microphone interface, every effect, every edit is all effortlessly dissectible. Headstage is obviously not Lambda-wide but razor sharp placement and no blur, with fabulously defined space in between items so everything is ripe for the picking out...

 The best part of the normal bias SR-X Mk.III for me was the immediacy and energy of the presentation. I got into Grados because they came reasonably close in this regard, while adding low and high end extension, as well as being far cheaper to adequately care for and feed... but they never came close in terms of refinement or accuracy and resolution... 

 The Pro bias SR-X Mk.III seems to do the presentation stuff as well as the normal bias version but extends it a couple of octaves in each direction, while increasing resolution. Going back to back with the RA1/RS1 rig out of the same source, the RS1s sound positively raunchy and unrefined... I suspect a lot of this is the RA1 and that these cans have much more potential - indeed the day I heard the ES-1/O2 rig (and HE90s...), my favourite sound of the day was my RS1s plugged into a SinglePower dynamic can amp... but that's another story.

 Anyway, all this without the stupid upper midrange and fatigue of the SR-404s... it sounds ridiculous to call any Stax slow and ponderous, but relatively speaking, that's how the SR-404s sound back to back with the SR-X Mk.III/Pros...

 I am absolutely floored and feel like I have reached transducer nirvana! I simply cannot find anything to complain about or dislike... 

 How many of us have heard these things? I forgot to ask Tony where he got this particular pair... spritzer?


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info, guys.

 I'm also idly wondering about Gig's Lambda Nova Classic and SRM-3 for sale. Does anyone know how the LN Classic stands up against the popular LNSignature?_

 

There shouldn't be that much of a difference because they are the same except the LNS has a wide PC-OCC cable. But the amp can also matter in terms of performance, for example an SRM-T1 should be much better than an SRM-3 (for more money of course).


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How many of us have heard these things? I forgot to ask Tony where he got this particular pair... spritzer?_

 

Tony got this set from KuboTen but he's also had one of my DIY sets which he says sounds pretty much the same. I've made about 8 or 9 DIY sets using Gamma/Alpha Pro drivers. Not many of those have been sold on the used market as the owners tend to hang onto them. 

 The sound is sublime and definately one of the best Stax headphones. I do find the sound is a tad too dry and slightly thin in direct comparison to the Omegas plus the comfort issues so I wound up selling my own set.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Opinions vary but i find that the T1 series lacks the dynamics and control with the omegas and in fact i prefer them with my srd7. A T1 series is exactly as you say adequate it doesn't do anything wrong as such it's just that the omegas are capable of more as i have found with using an srd 7 with them._

 

I agree, I would say _more than_ adequate though, I have heard all the current in production Stax energizers and the T1 looses out to non of them, I have good tubes, I am happy. Of course the aftermarket amps are another story but then again they are another price bracket also. 

 I am in the enviable position of having never heard any of them and naively believing that my amp/earphone combination blows everything I have heard previously to dust! So until someone at a UK meet produces a BH or maxed out Woo and I hear differently I will happily listen to a combination that, for me, produce the best sound I have heard thus far in my setup one that produced the most significant improvement of any purchase. Ignorance is bliss.

 Of course I want a BH for my O2, who doesn't? But before I start saving for that, my turntable needs a new arm and cart and there are a thousand records I want to hear, oh, and the 717. Bit of a rant, sorry.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tony got this set from KuboTen but he's also had one of my DIY sets which he says sounds pretty much the same. I've made about 8 or 9 DIY sets using Gamma/Alpha Pro drivers. Not many of those have been sold on the used market as the owners tend to hang onto them. 

 The sound is sublime and definately one of the best Stax headphones. I do find the sound is a tad too dry and slightly thin in direct comparison to the Omegas plus the comfort issues so I wound up selling my own set._

 

Ahh, I remember trying that set briefly. I wish I'd spent more time listening with them now and with a greater variety of music. When I asked Craig about them sometime later, he told me he'd sold them to someone here who really wanted a pair. I feel much the same way about my SR-5NB's spot-on bass and the way they produce an intimate sound, to the point I too prefer them over O2s most of the time. I reckon they are the best score in terms of headphones I've ever made, though these LNS I picked up today are quite fantastic in their own way.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark_h* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree, I would say more than adequate though, I have heard all the current in production Stax energizers and the T1 looses out to non of them, I have good tubes, I am happy. Of course the aftermarket amps are another story but then again they are another price bracket also._

 

I'm wondering about whether I should make the effort to compare the borrowed 007t I'm using to a T1S. I'm specifically after both Normal and Pro outputs, and XLR as well as RCA input. I imagine the 007t has more grunt for the O2s?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tony got this set from KuboTen but he's also had one of my DIY sets which he says sounds pretty much the same. I've made about 8 or 9 DIY sets using Gamma/Alpha Pro drivers. Not many of those have been sold on the used market as the owners tend to hang onto them. 

 The sound is sublime and definately one of the best Stax headphones. I do find the sound is a tad too dry and slightly thin in direct comparison to the Omegas plus the comfort issues so I wound up selling my own set._

 

Gotcha. How do the Gamma/Alpha Pros sound in comparison to this? Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahh, I remember trying that set briefly. I wish I'd spent more time listening with them now and with a greater variety of music. When I asked Craig about them sometime later, he told me he'd sold them to someone here who really wanted a pair. I feel much the same way about my SR-5NB's spot-on bass and the way they produce an intimate sound, to the point I too prefer them over O2s most of the time. I reckon they are the best score in terms of headphones I've ever made, though these LNS I picked up today are quite fantastic in their own way._

 






 ...same ones as on my head now...?

 I'd very much like to hear the Lambda Sig and LNS some day, both sound rather interesting, especially the LNS...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotcha. How do the Gamma/Alpha Pros sound in comparison to this?_

 

Very different. The chassis changes a lot with electrostatics.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my pair today from antonyfirst... unbelievable! I haven't dragged out my normal bias SR-X Mk.III yet to compare but these murder the SR-404s, and my memory of the SR-007 Mk.I hooked up to an ES-1 with my D1 as source... initially I wasn't sure they didn't give up some of the normal bias SR-X Mk.III midrange magic, but I think it's more to do with the fact that the normal bias version simply has no bottom or top so you concentrate on the midrange completely... will check this out when I drag the nomral bias cans out... 

 The bass is UNBELIEVABLE! It's absolutely PERFECT! It is certainly deep enough but more importantly it is SUPER fast and taut, these things start and stop on a DIME with ZERO overhang... best bass I have ever heard from a headphone, period. 

 My jaw keeps hitting the floor and "wow" comes out, on tracks I have heard four hundred and eighty seven thousand times... these things do NOT hide anything and do NOT lie about anything! In highly produced multi-track music, every track, every instrument/air/microphone interface, every effect, every edit is all effortlessly dissectible. Headstage is obviously not Lambda-wide but razor sharp placement and no blur, with fabulously defined space in between items so everything is ripe for the picking out...

 The best part of the normal bias SR-X Mk.III for me was the immediacy and energy of the presentation. I got into Grados because they came reasonably close in this regard, while adding low and high end extension, as well as being far cheaper to adequately care for and feed... but they never came close in terms of refinement or accuracy and resolution... 

 The Pro bias SR-X Mk.III seems to do the presentation stuff as well as the normal bias version but extends it a couple of octaves in each direction, while increasing resolution. Going back to back with the RA1/RS1 rig out of the same source, the RS1s sound positively raunchy and unrefined... I suspect a lot of this is the RA1 and that these cans have much more potential - indeed the day I heard the ES-1/O2 rig (and HE90s...), my favourite sound of the day was my RS1s plugged into a SinglePower dynamic can amp... but that's another story.

 Anyway, all this without the stupid upper midrange and fatigue of the SR-404s... it sounds ridiculous to call any Stax slow and ponderous, but relatively speaking, that's how the SR-404s sound back to back with the SR-X Mk.III/Pros...

 I am absolutely floored and feel like I have reached transducer nirvana! I simply cannot find anything to complain about or dislike... 

*How many of us have heard these things? I forgot to ask Tony where he got this particular pair... spritzer?*_

 

I have heard the normal bias SR-X Mk3 and liked the soundstage of my SR-5NB more (same driver) but the mids were delicious on both. I also have the Gamma Pro drivers (like yours pro drivers I believe) in a custom woody cup with SR-007 ear pads, which is very nice but actually has slightly less bass than my SR-5NB gold edition (or SR-X if memory serves me right). They all still reminds me a bit of the re-cabled ES950, where they are missing the Lambda's upper-mid etch and lower treble brightness/coloration. The SR-Lambda are the least offensive to me so far, and my favorite Lambda (have one for me and one for my 11 yr old son).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my pair today from antonyfirst... unbelievable!_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have never heard the original SR-X/MK3 Pro, but my SR-X/MK3 | SR-Alpha Pro hybrid was really great sounding. Not quite up there to the SR-007, nor sound or comfort wise. So 'antonyfirst' ended up buying it...


----------



## Duckman

This is a dangerous thread. Now I want a pair of SR-X/MK3 Pro  Next I will want hen's teeth.

 Thanks feckn_eejit!


----------



## feckn_eejit

Duckman - unless you have seriously good upstream gear I would ignore the SR-X/Pros and go for something with more of its own flavour... also I suspect most audiophiles will tend to prefer a different sort of presentation while I have always pursued monitor-like accuracy, like I hear in the recording studio with really high end active monitors... so don't worry too much for now!!

 I loved that cartoon back in the day BTW!


----------



## antonyfirst

Heheheh, congrats. That perfectly fast bass was what I was missing out of my little amp, and upgrading to a big, hot running amp implies lots of problems with a warm climate like Italian's.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Duckman - unless you have seriously good upstream gear I would ignore the SR-X/Pros and go for something with more of its own flavour... also I suspect most audiophiles will tend to prefer a different sort of presentation while I have always pursued monitor-like accuracy, like I hear in the recording studio with really high end active monitors... so don't worry too much for now!!_

 

I have to agree as the SRX Pro sounded like rubbish out of a simple Gamma 1 dac, while were heaven like the first time I plugged them out of the more analogue sounding Melior Bitstream, although now completely controlled (yet!) in bass department.


----------



## feckn_eejit

The needle on the front of the class A/AB Pass Labs amps measures not output wattage, but instead, it measures the power supply's current draw. Therefore, when you turn the amplifier on and as it warms up it starts to stabilize at the point which reflects the amp's standing Class A bias. Once you start to play music, the needle will not move until the amp moves out of Class A into AB, at around 20 wpc@8ohms in this model. 

 With the SR-X Mk.III/Pros hooked up to the Illusion ESC-1001, I have seen the needle do things it has never done before, including when it's hooked up to the mighty Magneplanars, into which I have pegged the needle and the amp still hasn't clipped and nothing broke - that's over 500 watts a channel into 4 ohms with absolute control (track was PF's "Run Like Hell", and interestingly it was the guitar that was pegging the needle, not the bass or monstrous kick drum!)

 Magneplanar speakers, especially the older models like my MG-IIIa, are not exactly known for great bass... with lesser amps, it was hard to really control the bass panel and it would overshoot on loud bass transients, causing the mylar diaphragm to hit the metal frame causing the famous Maggie farting sound. This has simply never happened with the Pass amp even at lease-breaking volumes... I had always had the desire to eventually mate a really high-quality servo-controlled sub to my system before the Pass amp... not anymore... to think that it'll get even better when I biamp them using an active crossover and Bryston 7B ST monos (the king for maggie bass...) on the bass panels is nuts...

 Anyway, the needle's bizarre behaviour indicates to me that these Stax through the Illusion transformer box are a very strange load indeed. It isn't that it's moving particularly far from its normal resting place at the Class A bias point, but how it's teetering back and forth a bit. It doesn't do anything like this with the SR-404s... It sounds like the amplifier has a death grip on the diaphragm as the bass is startlingly fast.

 At this point, I think 100WPC into 8 ohms is about right for a transformer box, but you could get away with 60WPC. For best bang for the buck on the used market, I would suggest the Threshold SA/4e (pure class A into 100 watts at 8 ohms) is the ideal choice. If cost is no object, the Pass XA100.5 is probably the no compromise ideal at around US$10k... At the 60WPC/8ohm level, try the Threshold SA/3.9e, Pass Aleph 5, or XA60.5...

 edit: that said I want the next SA/4e that shows up on AgoN...............


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotcha. How do the Gamma/Alpha Pros sound in comparison to this?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ...same ones as on my head now...?

 I'd very much like to hear the Lambda Sig and LNS some day, both sound rather interesting, especially the LNS..._

 

Yes, that's the pair, from here. I'm liking my LNS, except for the creakiness in the frame. They have more of a soundstage than my SR-5NBs, but the amount of bass one hears is dependant on their position and seal. Lifting them off my ears slightly and it's as if someone switched on a subwoofer.


----------



## Akabeth

It's been a short while since I've posted here but I want to say...

 [As unbiased as I have tried to be] does the O2mk1 have a tendency to make people stop or at least halt people on their search for that, magical sound? I've been really happy with this headphone for the past few months. In the grand scheme, my other headphones (other than KSC-75) are getting very little use. It's just a solid performer no matter how I scrutinize it week in, week out. :S .... which means I get to save my spare money for other things.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm liking my LNS, except for the creakiness in the frame. They have more of a soundstage than my SR-5NBs, but the amount of bass one hears is dependant on their position and seal. Lifting them off my ears slightly and it's as if someone switched on a subwoofer._

 

I notice the same thing with my SR-404s. Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been a short while since I've posted here but I want to say...

 [As unbiased as I have tried to be] does the O2mk1 have a tendency to make people stop or at least halt people on their search for that, magical sound? I've been really happy with this headphone for the past few months. In the grand scheme, my other headphones (other than KSC-75) are getting very little use. It's just a solid performer no matter how I scrutinize it week in, week out. :S .... which means I get to save my spare money for other things._

 

It does seem that way for a decent number of people... once they end up with a KGBH that is!


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Akabeth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does the O2mk1 have a tendency to make people stop or at least halt people on their search for that, magical sound_

 

Yes, I think the O2Mk1, and also the O2Mk2, is very likely the end of the road for many people. But you need a good system backing it up.

 The O2Mk1 has become my favorite headphone. Yes, I prefer it over the O2Mk2, HE90 and SR-Omega, ranked in that order.

 I don't like admitting it, but I think now that Spritzer was right all along. The HE90 and SR-Omega can't match the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2's imaging precision, hyper details, smoothness and liquidity, and bass quality/quantity/accuracy. True, they are airier and have larger virtual soundstages. They are also slightly brighter which can make them more impressive-sounding and seem more treble-sparkly (in a good way) and very detailed.

 But their sound image on the larger soundstage is fuzzier. An analogy could be an ultrasharp 22" monitor versus a fuzzier and less color-accurate 27" monitor with the same resolution. The 22" monitor is smaller, but the text and everything else is so sharp and detailed that I don't mind the lesser overall screen size. The 27" is more expansive, but the fuzzier text can become more apparent and very annoying when compared to the 22" monitor.

 With a good amp, source and other associated gear backing it up, the O2's can even become closer to 24" monitors, where the disadvantage vs a 27" is less. If the system can provide a bit wider and deeper soundstage, a blacker background and a lower noise floor, these qualities enhance the O2's already superior imaging and details and makes it even better.

 The O2Mk2 is also very good, and I also prefer it over the HE90 and SR-Omega. But it doesn't seem to have the Mk1's tonal balance and accuracy. The Mk1 sounds more neutral to me, while the Mk2 is more "fun" and can sometimes be more engaging due to its more forward midrange and greater bass impact.

 All this is only true for me with a Single Power ES-1. I'm aware of SP's less-than-stellar reputation, and I was one of those who were very unhappy with the long wait, broken promises and endless delays. The amp has been working well the last six months, and with my favorite tube combinations the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2 reach a level of refinement and high quality sound that other headphones I've heard can't match. I'm currently using Sylvania 5751 black plate triple mica in the first gain stage, Sylvania 6SN7W metal base in the second, and a quad of Mullard EL34 xf2.

 Count me in as a member of Team O2Mk1.






 April Fools!


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But their sound image on the larger soundstage is fuzzier. An analogy could be an ultrasharp 22" monitor versus a fuzzier and less color-accurate 27" monitor with the same resolution. The 22" monitor is smaller, but the text and everything else is so sharp and detailed that I don't mind the lesser overall screen size. The 27" is more expansive, but the fuzzier text can become more apparent and very annoying when compared to the 22" monitor.

 With a good amp, source and other associated gear backing it up, the O2's can even become closer to 24" monitors, where the disadvantage vs a 27" is less. If the system can provide a bit wider and deeper soundstage, a blacker background and a lower noise floor, these qualities enhance the O2's already superior imaging and details and makes it even better._

 

That's a fabulous analogy, whether serious or not. Thanks for your post!


----------



## spritzer

Michael made a funny!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The analogy has some merit though but I always feel that the SR-007 can cast a 3D soundstage which no other headphone cane do, i.e. portray depth.


----------



## feckn_eejit

It does do a good job of summarizing the point in Darth Nut's old review where he talks about headstage size vs precision...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I think the O2Mk1, and also the O2Mk2, is very likely the end of the road for many people. But you need a good system backing it up.

 The O2Mk1 has become my favorite headphone. Yes, I prefer it over the O2Mk2, HE90 and SR-Omega, ranked in that order.

 I don't like admitting it, but I think now that Spritzer was right all along. The HE90 and SR-Omega can't match the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2's imaging precision, hyper details, smoothness and liquidity, and bass quality/quantity/accuracy. True, they are airier and have larger virtual soundstages. They are also slightly brighter which can make them more impressive-sounding and seem more treble-sparkly (in a good way) and very detailed.

 But their sound image on the larger soundstage is fuzzier. An analogy could be an ultrasharp 22" monitor versus a fuzzier and less color-accurate 27" monitor with the same resolution. The 22" monitor is smaller, but the text and everything else is so sharp and detailed that I don't mind the lesser overall screen size. The 27" is more expansive, but the fuzzier text can become more apparent and very annoying when compared to the 22" monitor.

 With a good amp, source and other associated gear backing it up, the O2's can even become closer to 24" monitors, where the disadvantage vs a 27" is less. If the system can provide a bit wider and deeper soundstage, a blacker background and a lower noise floor, these qualities enhance the O2's already superior imaging and details and makes it even better.

 The O2Mk2 is also very good, and I also prefer it over the HE90 and SR-Omega. But it doesn't seem to have the Mk1's tonal balance and accuracy. The Mk1 sounds more neutral to me, while the Mk2 is more "fun" and can sometimes be more engaging due to its more forward midrange and greater bass impact.

 All this is only true for me with a Single Power ES-1. I'm aware of SP's less-than-stellar reputation, and I was one of those who were very unhappy with the long wait, broken promises and endless delays. The amp has been working well the last six months, and with my favorite tube combinations the O2Mk1 and O2Mk2 reach a level of refinement and high quality sound that other headphones I've heard can't match. I'm currently using Sylvania 5751 black plate triple mica in the first gain stage, Sylvania 6SN7W metal base in the second, and a quad of Mullard EL34 xf2.

 Count me in as a member of Team O2Mk1.






 April Fools! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

HAHAHAHAH! You left out the Jade, so I knew you were making it all up!

 OTOH, I did pick up another O2 Mk1 last weekend. So today I am about to order a KGBHSE.

























 NOT!



 Wait - my post is not funny as much as it is sad.


----------



## feckn_eejit

First run of Yes' _Fragile_ on the SRX pros.... ahaaaaaaaaaaaaahahaahahahaaaaaaaaaaaahahahaahfasdh fl;dsjfaljfal;sdfjadflfhdskfh muahahahahahahh1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111111one oneoneoneoneoeoeneoneon


----------



## antonyfirst

Hahahahahahahha


----------



## mark_h

I am lost? There is not a day goes by when my O2 doesn't amaze me, for electronica it is fab!


----------



## 2deadeyes

Wow...Elephas almost had me there.

 Someday...


----------



## Deadneddz

April fools aside, we all know theres some truth about Elephas comments.


----------



## feckn_eejit

A pair of old Stax with ribbon tweeter for added line-source goodness...



 The SR-404s are feeling pretty left out...



 Something ominous lurks in the dark...


----------



## Shike

Well, this will probably seem pretty random being a blast from 1975. I was searching ebay the other day for Stax and saw a pair of SR40's and SRD-4 on auction in really good condition. Set up a sniper for ****s and giggles. $30 later I had a pair of vintage entry level Stax in hand.

 Now I have them with excellent balance hooked up to my Niles amp till my T-Amp arrives to drive them. I must say I'm pretty impressed considering their age. The bass is definitely not the lowest, and while the treble doesn't extend as fair as I'm used to it's extremely detailed (as are the mids). If nothing else they'll be great headphones to use when I go to bed as deep bass gets me riled easily. Other than that was bass they do have is extremely clean . . . about as deep as Grado's (save GS1000) and controlled extremely well.

 I have a feeling I may end up getting some higher-end Stax in the future. These should be fine for now though to get a taste of the sound


----------



## krmathis

Hmmm, seems like Stax are going to release an *SR-404 Limited* to mark the Lambda models 30 year anniversary.
FUJIYA AVIC blog; STAX New "Limited"Model !! - livedoor Blog

 All info in Japanese, but here are what I can figure out of it:
 * April 22nd. (release/announce)
 * Limited to 1000 units worldwide.
 * OFC Silver (cable I guess).
 * Price ￥63,000.
 * Black housing and cable.
 * Freq; 7-41,000 Hz Sensibity; 100dB/100Vrms/1kHz
 * Impedance;145kΩ Max.SPL;118dB(400Hz) Weight;472g


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, seems like Stax are going to release an *SR-404 Limited* to mark the Lambda models 30 year anniversary.
FUJIYA AVIC blog; STAX New "Limited"Model !! - livedoor Blog

 All info in Japanese, but here are what I can figure out of it:
 * April 22nd. (release/announce)
 * Limited to 1000 units worldwide.
 * OFC Silver (cable I guess).
 * Price ￥63,000.
 * Black housing and cable.
 * Freq; 7-41,000 Hz Sensibity; 100dB/100Vrms/1kHz
 * Impedance;145kΩ Max.SPL;118dB(400Hz) Weight;472g
_

 


 I was going to say too late for april fools then i saw the pic. Now if these out perform all the others then they will be highly sought after to say the least, especially with only 1000 pairs available. Looking at the pics and spec they just look to be a 404 in a different colour.
 Shame really they could have been a new LNS.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

We need Spritzer to take one for the team, and if the LTD Ed 404 is better than all the other Lambda series then we can make a mad rush to buy them up.


----------



## vvanrij

Thats what I loved about the SR-202 that I owned for a short while, these lambda's look SO MUCH BETTER in black.


----------



## mopps

I am waiting for a closed-back Omega.


----------



## spritzer

I'm probably going to take one for the team on this one and I'm also getting a SR-404 that I'm going to try a few tweaks on. Time to see if the ugly duckling with the excellent drivers can be made to shine like it should.


----------



## SoliloCey

what pricetag would I expect a sigma normal, or sigma pro for? 

 has anyone compared them to the Omega II?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm probably going to take one for the team on this one and I'm also getting a SR-404 that I'm going to try a few tweaks on. Time to see if the ugly duckling with the excellent drivers can be made to shine like it should. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You gonna try some decent glue, Birgir?


----------



## Sasaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_* OFC Silver (cable I guess)._

 

It's a silver coated copper, here is a part of brochure.






 The brochure says this newly developed cable brings more lush and fuller sound.
 I think this is the only sonic improvement. (ear pads could be so)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what pricetag would I expect a sigma normal, or sigma pro for? 

 has anyone compared them to the Omega II?_

 

All prices are in flux right not but a SR-Sigma should fetch 300-500$ and a Sigma Pro 500-800$. I've compared them at length with the SR-007 and they don't come close in any way but offer a different perspective that some may like. You need a Blue Hawaii to drive the Sigma's to their full potential though. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You gonna try some decent glue, Birgir?_

 

Yup, plus some other tweaks such as moving the driver inside the housings. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sasaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a silver coated copper, here is a part of brochure.






 The brochure says this newly developed cable brings more lush and fuller sound.
 I think this is the only sonic improvement. (ear pads could be so)_

 

Photo fail.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If they have finally gone back to the original earpad design (which was never put into production but is featured on some of the brochures from the late 70's era) or used real leather then there could be some positive changes.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what pricetag would I expect a sigma normal, or sigma pro for? 

 has anyone compared them to the Omega II?_

 

Yes.


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...-404-a-381915/


----------



## plaidplatypus

I've compared the SR-Sigma Pro to the SR-007. The Sigma Pro has a wider soundstage and less imposing bass. The SR-007 has more midrange. The Sigma Pro is more picky about what amp is driving it, I would suggest a solid state amp or an adapter. The drivers are farther away from your ears so you have to turn up the volume more to get the same perceived volume. They leak a lot of sound too.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've compared the SR-Sigma Pro to the SR-007. The Sigma Pro has a wider soundstage and less imposing bass. The SR-007 has more midrange. The Sigma Pro is more picky about what amp is driving it, I would suggest a solid state amp or an adapter. The drivers are farther away from your ears so you have to turn up the volume more to get the same perceived volume. They leak a lot of sound too._

 

You leave out the most important "detail" in the comparison - the lack of detail in the Sigma Pro vs the other stats, and severely rolled off treble. I do appreciate the loan of the Sigma Pro, but I just couldn't appreciate the sound.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You leave out the most important "detail" in the comparison - the lack of detail in the Sigma Pro vs the other stats, and severely rolled off treble. I do appreciate the loan of the Sigma Pro, but I just couldn't appreciate the sound._

 

The Sigma/404 goes a considerable way to increasing the detail and high frequency response of the Sigma and Sigma Pro. Not that I think either is bad, rather they are very listenable on a wide variety of types of music and recordings of varying quality. 

 However, for sheer detail you cannot beat the 007's. But after listening to the various Sigma's other phones seem claustrophobic even if they out-perform the Sigmas in other areas. A Sigma/007 could be the ideal phone but the 007 drivers wouldn't fit the Sigma case.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The Sigma 404 does have more highs and the bass isn't muddy but I like the diffuse sound of the Sigma Pro. The HE60 is the way to go for detail IMO.


----------



## jellojoe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my SRM-1 Mk2 today.

 It came with the voltage set for 220V I believe, see first photo where the arrow is pointing down toward the printed number "220" which you cant really see in the photo. 






 I changed it to 117V (at least I think so), and I want to make sure I have it set right for the USA, see second photo. Please confirm I have it right before I plug it in, I'm pretty sure the 100v is for Japan, and we are anywhere between 110-120v?



_

 

I just received delivery of an A-series SRM-1/MKII just like the one HeadphoneAddict has shown in the pictures above. However, I can't quite figure out how to work the voltage selector on the back. I've taken the small screws off to release the cap to the selector, but the black block (I assume that's the selector itself) doesn't seem to budge. It is just stuck from years/decades not needing to move it or is there some trick to it? Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

The voltage selector is a socket and plug affair so you have to pull on the block to remove it and then insert it with the arrow pointing to the right voltage.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Any HE60 aficionados ever hear a pair of SR-X Mk.III/Pros? I am a detail fanatic and I have never heard the HE60s... I am deliriously happy with the XIIIPros, but remain morbidly curious as to how they might compare...


----------



## spritzer

The He60 presentation is rather different while the 4070 is more like the big brother of the SR-X Mk3 Pro


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The HE60 give a big out of head sound experience, unlike the SR-X Mk3 that I tried (or many other headphones).


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The He60 presentation is rather different while the 4070 is more like the big brother of the SR-X Mk3 Pro_

 

Interesting. Could you go into a bit more detail on what you mean by "big brother"?
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE60 give a big out of head sound experience, unlike the SR-X Mk3 that I tried (or many other headphones)._

 

Interesting. I am not particularly into an "out of head" sound experience. Thanks!


----------



## jellojoe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The voltage selector is a socket and plug affair so you have to pull on the block to remove it and then insert it with the arrow pointing to the right voltage._

 

Ah. That was easy. Now if only I had some Stax headphones.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Could you go into a bit more detail on what you mean by "big brother"?
 Interesting. I am not particularly into an "out of head" sound experience. Thanks!_

 

So, you're more into the "tiny little musicians playing inside my head" experience?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, you're more into the "tiny little musicians playing inside my head" experience?_

 

I listen primarily to highly produced close-miked recordings, so the concept of realistic performance reproduction doesn't apply... if I do want to imagine musicians playing in front of me I fire up the Magneplanars... from headphones I am looking for resolution...


----------



## greggf

I'm noticing that it's easier for me to go from listening to dynamic headphones to then listening to electrostatic ones, than it is for me to go from listening to electrostatic headphones and then switching over to dynamic ones.

 What is this all about? Anybody else notice this? 

 I'd like to say that the dynamics sound "crude" in comparison, but that's really not the right or fair word. It's more like the stats are addicting or something. 

 What's going on here?


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm noticing that it's easier for me to go from listening to dynamic headphones to then listening to electrostatic ones, than it is for me to go from listening to electrostatic headphones and then switching over to dynamic ones.

 What is this all about? Anybody else notice this? 

 I'd like to say that the dynamics sound "crude" in comparison, but that's really not the right or fair word. It's more like the stats are addicting or something. 

 What's going on here?_

 

Likewise, I find my dynamic headphones very shouty in comparison. On the Stax, I can feel the roundness of the bass and the tremendous amount of space, which is the addictive part about it.

 I did at certain point of time wondered whether Stax is the kind of sound for me because the previous sources I used sounded really dry on the Stax. Now that I've switched to a tube cd player that gives me tonnes of juice, I don't think I'll ever go back to dynamics


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm noticing that it's easier for me to go from listening to dynamic headphones to then listening to electrostatic ones, than it is for me to go from listening to electrostatic headphones and then switching over to dynamic ones.

 What is this all about? Anybody else notice this? 

 I'd like to say that the dynamics sound "crude" in comparison, but that's really not the right or fair word. It's more like the stats are addicting or something. 

 What's going on here?_

 

I don't think it's so much that Stax have capabilities that dynamic headphones don't, but it's that dynamic headphones have colourations that electrostats don't. It's the same with the rest of my rig now though, if I switch over anything to what I was using before in its place, then it just isn't as pleasant. I just don't want to go without the micro-detail and speed that everything delivers.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. Could you go into a bit more detail on what you mean by "big brother"_

 

More of everything really. More detail, deeper bass with more bloom (not by much though), larger soundstage etc.


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm noticing that it's easier for me to go from listening to dynamic headphones to then listening to electrostatic ones, than it is for me to go from listening to electrostatic headphones and then switching over to dynamic ones.

 What is this all about? Anybody else notice this? 

 I'd like to say that the dynamics sound "crude" in comparison, but that's really not the right or fair word. It's more like the stats are addicting or something. 

 What's going on here?_

 

The O2's are only phones I have had that have not left me wanting to try something new within a couple of months for a different flavor. I rarely listen to anything else nowadays. I think they have some addictive properties you cannot find in dynamic phones but I have not tried the HP Grado, R-10, Balanced 650's or the top tier dynamic headphone amps so my perspective is somewhat limited.


----------



## greggf

There's something very un-fatiguing going on, too. With dynamics, I always reach a point where I'm done listening to music. With the O2s, I never want to quit. I can't figure out what it is about the electrostatic principle that might be doing this.


----------



## Oublie

Electrostatics just seem to do it right. My first real headphones a year ago were a set of ultrasone hfi2200ule's which i though were great until the stax arrived. The two best i've ever heard are the sr lambda normal bias and the o2 mk1. There are only a handful of cans that are on my hit list now and they include the akg k1000, hd800 (possibly) and the sigma pro.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm noticing that it's easier for me to go from listening to dynamic headphones to then listening to electrostatic ones, than it is for me to go from listening to electrostatic headphones and then switching over to dynamic ones.

 What is this all about? Anybody else notice this? 

 I'd like to say that the dynamics sound "crude" in comparison, but that's really not the right or fair word. It's more like the stats are addicting or something. 

 What's going on here?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Likewise, I find my dynamic headphones very shouty in comparison. On the Stax, I can feel the roundness of the bass and the tremendous amount of space, which is the addictive part about it.

 I did at certain point of time wondered whether Stax is the kind of sound for me because the previous sources I used sounded really dry on the Stax. Now that I've switched to a tube cd player that gives me tonnes of juice, I don't think I'll ever go back to dynamics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've posted about this too, especially after the Feb 14 Colorado meet - we listened to a lot of stats and then my Denon and Edition 9 would sound like closed cans, and my HD600 would sound dull. The RS-1 and ATH-ESW10 were the easiest dynamics to listen to after listening to stats for hours.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's so much that Stax have capabilities that dynamic headphones don't, but it's that dynamic headphones have colourations that electrostats don't. It's the same with the rest of my rig now though, if I switch over anything to what I was using before in its place, then it just isn't as pleasant. I just don't want to go without the micro-detail and speed that everything delivers._

 

There are colorations in many of the stats too, just they seem different or less intrusive, and so less likely to make the ears and brain adjust over time. Once the brain has adjusted to colorations in the dynamic cans they are not so bad. But switching to the stats is like a drink of fresh ice cold water, like I found jesus or something. Makes me realize what I was missing before.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More of everything really. More detail, deeper bass with more bloom (not by much though), larger soundstage etc._

 

Interesting. The 4070 uses a Lambda-shaped driver right? None of the usual Lambda upper midrange antics?


----------



## spritzer

It uses the same driver as the SR-303/404 in a ported chassis. There is some slight "thickening" of the upper midrange due to the closed chassis but no spikes or harshness which is usually contributed to the Lambda design. The problem with the Lambdas is the chassis as the Sigma fitted with the same drivers sounds very different.


----------



## malldian

What is a reasonable price for a SRD7 in todays market?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is a reasonable price for a SRD7 in todays market?_

 

$30.00 - $40.00 for normal bias
 $300 - $400 for pro bias


----------



## malldian

God Stax is confusing haha. If the sound of the Lambda I heard didn't haunt my dreams I wouldn't be selling off most my old equipment though (see sig).. Grado 325i already gone.

 Edit: Looks like I am wanting the normal bias one. Now where to find it..


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$30.00 - $40.00 for normal bias_

 

Actually, they've been going for $100-$150 on eBay (stock)... It's ridiculous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Look at this monster:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-SRD-7-Adapt...3%3A1|294%3A50


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, they've been going for $100-$150 on eBay (stock)... It's ridiculous 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Look at this monster:

Stax SRD-7 Adaptor for Ear Speakers 2 Outputs Tested - eBay (item 260368981184 end time Mar-10-09 18:19:00 PDT)_

 

Wow! That is just stupid.


----------



## spritzer

Damn, I really should have sold all of mine on eBay instead of giving them away.


----------



## mypasswordis

Damn, 200 dollars. You could almost get a real Stax amp for that much. Or you could just build your own supply with better transformers.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: Looks like I am wanting the normal bias one._

 

Who doesn't? I have been on the lookout and haven't seen one for sale recently.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It uses the same driver as the SR-303/404 in a ported chassis. There is some slight "thickening" of the upper midrange due to the closed chassis but no spikes or harshness which is usually contributed to the Lambda design. The problem with the Lambdas is the chassis as the Sigma fitted with the same drivers sounds very different._

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the info!


----------



## malldian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, 200 dollars. You could almost get a real Stax amp for that much. Or you could just build your own supply with better transformers._

 

Are there good DIY adapter options?


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$30.00 - $40.00 for normal bias
 $300 - $400 for pro bias 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was actually surprised by the spike in Pro Bias adapters over the last couple years. Stax should start making them again. Clearly people really do NOT want to purchase electrostat amps


----------



## malldian

I have a pretty good power amp and don't really see buying another headphone amp. I might end up just going for the 202 system rather than playing this eBay hunting game.


----------



## minivan

stax sr404 limited edition will be out on the 22 april. 
http://www.phileweb.com/news/audio/200904/07/8860.html
 this is to commemorate the 30th anniversary of lsr-lambda, only 1000 of will be produce.
 cable will be copper with silver plating
 similar to sr007a ,earpad is real leather.


----------



## Skin

looks nice, at least they arent gouging too badly [~$625 US] though after shipping and import fees 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## n3rdling

Why don't you guys just get a SRD6 if you need 6 pin input? I've seen a couple for sale or in cheap combo deals.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why don't you guys just get a SRD6 if you need 6 pin input? I've seen a couple for sale or in cheap combo deals._

 

Ermm, in my experience they're quite bad.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Ray Samuels just launched his new stat amp, the A-10 Thunderbolt. Based on its specs, would it be able to make the O2 sing?


----------



## Currawong

I just found an interesting DIY Stax/dynamic amp on Yahoo Auctions here. The seller wants about $1300 for it. Apologies if this is already something well known, I just hadn't seen it before.


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there good DIY adapter options?_

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/the...-trans-363005/

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ermm, in my experience they're quite bad._

 

Several people say the transformers in the SRD-6 are exactly the same as in the SRD-7.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ray Samuels just launched his new stat amp, the A-10 Thunderbolt. Based on its specs, would it be able to make the O2 sing?_

 

Not really.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just found an interesting DIY Stax/dynamic amp on Yahoo Auctions_

 

Hey Currawong,

 Did you buy your LNS from Yahoo JP auctions? I saw one a week or two ago but wasn't sure about whether or not it was an actual LNS. It didn't seem to be brown. Did you see this one?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Several people say the transformers in the SRD-6 are exactly the same as in the SRD-7._

 

This was my understanding as well (that only the silver might be different)...anybody know for sure?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This was my understanding as well (that only the silver might be different)...anybody know for sure?_

 

I have one of each sitting here, i'll check but every time this comes up someone always says they are the same. I have a built but not tested pro bias supply to fit into an srd6 sb so when i finally get around to linking it up i'll let you know how they sound. Physically the srd6 sb is a lot smaller than the srd7, mkii and mkii sb so chances are they are different trafos.

 There have been a number of different attempts at diy but nobody has come out with a product as such. I'm planning on building one once funds allow using two 10kg transformer from sowter here in the uk that will do 20hz to 25khz flat and 1200v p to p voltage from a 30w amp my only limitation then will be the quality of the amp that drives it.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Currawong,

 Did you buy your LNS from Yahoo JP auctions? I saw one a week or two ago but wasn't sure about whether or not it was an actual LNS. It didn't seem to be brown. Did you see this one?_

 

These are the ones I bought. They are definitely brown and the drivers have the gold ring. The first two photos make them look grey though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ray Samuels just launched his new stat amp, the A-10 Thunderbolt. Based on its specs, would it be able to make the O2 sing?_

 

Given the data at hand it will not have a chance in hell of driving the SR-007 properly. The new 300$ PoorMan DIY amp has much better specs and uses far better tubes for the job. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just found an interesting DIY Stax/dynamic amp on Yahoo Auctions_

 

It's nothing new and has been up on Y!JP for months, if not years. As you can see on the drawings it takes the electrostatic output from the tubes directly (though probably through output caps) and the transformer handles the moving coils. You can do this to many push-pull speaker amps and have an instant Stax amp, much like the Masters amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Given the data at hand it will not have a chance in hell of driving the SR-007 properly. The new 300$ PoorMan DIY amp has much better specs and uses far better tubes for the job. 



 It's nothing new and has been up on Y!JP for months, if not years. As you can see on the drawings it takes the electrostatic output from the tubes directly (though probably through output caps) and the transformer handles the moving coils. You can do this to many push-pull speaker amps and have an instant Stax amp, much like the Masters amp._

 

It will be interesting to see what happens if it does sound good with the O2, even if it "wont drive the O2 properly". My GES "wont drive them properly" yet it still sounds good with them to my ears. 

 I recognize the GES's limitations, but it still drives the O2 better than I was lead to believe. It has good detail, imaging, timbre and tone, and a pleasant frequency balance - lacking only in power to go very loud like my dynamic rigs. And it acquitted itself well while I had a nice KGBH in my house during a local meet. The HE Audio Jade sounded better on that KGBH than the O2 did, leading the O2 Mk1 owner to sell the O2. Of course I now own that pair O2 Mk1 which almost sound better off an SRD-7 Pro with small 12 watt speaker amp. 

 I still don't see how you can say the HE Audio are as bad as you say they are unless Elephas's pair is unusually "off" from the norm, because Naamanf's HE Audio 1.2b and my Jade both sound very similar and very good (better than ESP950). Then again, the Jade sound closer to my O2 Mk2 than to the Mk1, so that could explain it.


----------



## spritzer

I think you are confusing power output with going loud. Volume is only gain and that is easy to make on any cheap amp. Just look at the huge gain of the Koss E.90 and the massive voltage swings it can pull off. What is much harder to do it high current output while maintaining said voltage swing. Tubes swing a lot of voltage but are quite frankly rubbish are dishing out the current needed. So you all remeber this, volume has no bearing on whether the amp is fit to drive the SR-007. Whether it can deliver it's full output voltage into both the treble and bass at the same time (the two most punishing impedance loads) is the true test. A SRM-313 will drive the SR-007 to earsplitting levels but that doesn't mean it is a good match. 

 As for the GES, it's limitations pale next to the A-10's. First off the GES uses excellent tubes for the output stage (the A-10's are a terrible choice for a number of reasons) and the GES amp stages are relatively immune to the impedance of the phones (so only held back by the PSU and the lack of a CCS on the output stage) while the SRPP output stage on the A-10 really doesn't like reactive and capacitive loads (i.e. electrostatic). By that I mean... _really_ doesn't like them and will seriously alter the output of the amp. This will be no straight wire with gain. Let's not forget that Woo are introducing a new version of the GES at CJ which is supposed to address the SR-007 "issue" so that's something to look for. 

 Now what you call an acceptable amp to use with the SR-007 may differ from my clarification but to me it should have enough power to maintain a constant voltage swing into the very demanding load while inflicting as little damage to the original sound as possible. I don't believe in magic tweaks but rather high slew rate, low output impedance and a huge CCS on the output stage that can weather the brutal impedance load presented by these phones. 

 As for the Jade's, there was probably nothing wrong with them and you can ask Justin since he has them now. It's been well established by now that I'm far more picky then most and I don't settle for something that merely sounds nice. I like to hear what's on the recording and not what the phones sound like. The Jade is very colored and leaves a large "fingerprint" on everything and that's not acceptable to me. To many the SR-007 Mk2 may be fine but the bass isn't linear and therefor I set out to "fix them".


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[Several people say the transformers in the SRD-6 are exactly the same as in the SRD-7.



 ._

 


 they might be, or might not be, the same. Check out the Jade thread, I posted some info there.


----------



## nsx_23

I'm having a bit of trouble finding info, so I thought I'd post here and ask those of you with a bit more experience. 

 I'm thinking of buying a pair of SR40 to go with my Zero DAC as a PC listening rig, and was wondering how the SR-40 + SRD-4 combo sounds compared to, say, my Pro 900s? Will mainly listen to female vocal jazz with the occasional bit of rock.

 Also, how would I wire everything up?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm having a bit of trouble finding info, so I thought I'd post here and ask those of you with a bit more experience. 

 I'm thinking of buying a pair of SR40 to go with my Zero DAC as a PC listening rig, and was wondering how the SR-40 + SRD-4 combo sounds compared to, say, my Pro 900s? Will mainly listen to female vocal jazz with the occasional bit of rock.

 Also, how would I wire everything up?_

 

Hi your in for a surprise they actually sound very good. I haven't heard the pro 900's but moved from a set of 2200's to the sr40 with srd4 and on up from there. The sr40's don't have the bass impact of the 2200 for that you will need a higher end stax setup but are very fast and very very detailed. You will need to get yourself a stereo power amp if you don't already have one as the srd4 links into the speaker output terminals of an amp and converts the signal to high voltage. The amp doesn't have to be very high powered 10watts is enough but amp quality does have an effect on the sound quality of the headphones

 Should sound very good with female vocal although with all these things opinions vary.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm having a bit of trouble finding info, so I thought I'd post here and ask those of you with a bit more experience. 

 I'm thinking of buying a pair of SR40 to go with my Zero DAC as a PC listening rig, and was wondering how the SR-40 + SRD-4 combo sounds compared to, say, my Pro 900s? Will mainly listen to female vocal jazz with the occasional bit of rock.

 Also, how would I wire everything up?_

 

I can't comment on how the SR40 compare to the Pro 900.
 But its worth knowing that the SR40 is low down on the Stax list. Below the two other electrets (SR60 and SR80) and from what I understand below all the electrostatics as well (SR-5, SR-X/MK3, SR-Lambda, SR-404, SR-007, ...). That don't say how it compares to the Pro 900 though.

 It wires up like this, using the SRD-4 cable ends:
 Speaker output (speaker amplifier) -> SRD-4 -> SR-40


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they might be, or might not be, the same. Check out the Jade thread, I posted some info there._

 

I'm pretty sure that Stax used at least two transformer suppliers over the years as there are differences even within the same model group. The the transformers also changed over the years with the oldest units being covered in beeswax.


----------



## ericj

Having only heard the ED9 and the SR-30 (which is the SR-60 in europe) and SR-80, I'd venture to guess that while the SR-40 will have way less bass, what it has will be clearer and more refined than the pro 900. Also the midrange will be more fluid.


----------



## dickbianchi

nsx_23;5593572 said:
			
		

> I'm thinking of buying a pair of SR40 to go with my Zero DAC as a PC listening rig, and was wondering how the SR-40 + SRD-4 combo sounds compared to, say, my Pro 900s? Will mainly listen to female vocal jazz with the occasional bit of rock.QUOTE]
> 
> Hi
> 
> ...


----------



## scompton

If you want to start off with electrets, I'd suggest trying and AT or Signet electret because the sound is comparable and the price is lower.


----------



## powertoold

Wow, what is going on with Stax auctions lately:

STAX SRXmk3/SRD7 ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES- EXCELLENT!!! - eBay (item 200329298931 end time Apr-14-09 16:35:56 PDT)


----------



## Keithpgdrb

holy crap. even I know thats overpriced!!


----------



## AudioCats

They do have original everything and apear to be in very nice condition, much better than the $300 set sold a couple of weeks ago. 

 still have a few days to go though, probably end up going over the $400 mark.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, what is going on with Stax auctions lately:

STAX SRXmk3/SRD7 ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES- EXCELLENT!!! - eBay (item 200329298931 end time Apr-14-09 16:35:56 PDT)_

 

Original paperwork, boxes, and it all seem to be in really nice condition. So no surprise it score a higher price than those well used box-less units..


----------



## Currawong

I paid $400 for my SR-5NB + Fitz modded amp. Considering what I got as a result would, IMO, blow away a dynamic rig at that price, I don't consider it over-priced.


----------



## mypasswordis

I got my SR-5NB and SRD-6SB for $150. I would say they are pretty low on my list of bang-for-buck purchases. I got my ESP10 for around $65 shipped and all I can say is it doesn't sound worse.

 Fail over-inflated prices are fail.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I remember the days when SR-X + SRD-7 combos went for little over $100. I wish I had bought a set back then.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my SR-5NB and SRD-6SB for $150. I would say they are pretty low on my list of bang-for-buck purchases. I got my ESP10 for around $65 shipped and all I can say is it doesn't sound worse.

 Fail over-inflated prices are fail.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I remember the days when SR-X + SRD-7 combos went for little over $100. I wish I had bought a set back then._

 

My SR-Lambda / SRD-X was only $235 shipped thanks to plaidplatypus. That got me hooked less than 18 morths ago. 

 Now I have 5 transformers (3 are Pro Bias), two SRD-X, 4 mini-speaker amps, one maxed Woo GES plus O2 Mk1, O2 Mk2, HE Audio Jade, Senn HE60, SR-5NB, SR-003, SR-001 Modded. Is that enough yet?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Edit: I remember the days when SR-X + SRD-7 combos went for little over $100. I wish I had bought a set back then._

 

about a month ago there was a set of SRX/SRD7 sold on ebay for around $150. I bidded $100 on it, since the condition was quite rough, I was mainly interested in the transformer box as the transformers usually never fail. Who knows when the old phones will die on you. 

 But on this set, I can see myself putting down $300 with no problem (well, it already went over $300 at this point). It is all about item condition 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I'm still waiting to find an sr5nb gold with flat ribbon cable. havent seen one in quite a while. wonder how much that would go for now.!!??


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still waiting to find an sr5nb gold with flat ribbon cable. havent seen one in quite a while. wonder how much that would go for now.!!??_

 

Probably not for enough to make me sell mine!


----------



## mypasswordis

Yeah, I realized at the meet I just went to that the SR-5NB is amazing at reproducing electric guitar sounds and rock in general, for some reason. Better than the Lambdas, even, but inferior to the Lambdas in several other respects.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about a month ago there was a set of SRX/SRD7 sold on ebay for around $150. I bidded $100 on it, since the condition was quite rough, I was mainly interested in the transformer box as the transformers usually never fail. Who knows when the old phones will die on you. 

 But on this set, I can see myself putting down $300 with no problem (well, it already went over $300 at this point). It is all about item condition 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

For some reason, SR-Xs are the most prone to failure of all Stax, and a lot of them go on sale in terrible condition, for some reason, so you may be right that this mint condition set is worth a lot more, in terms of a collector's point of view. I don't think you could say the same from purely based on sound quality, however.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Probably not for enough to make me sell mine! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Damn HA, thats Cold!!! lol, and probably quite correct!!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I realized at the meet I just went to that the SR-5NB is amazing at reproducing electric guitar sounds and rock in general, for some reason. Better than the Lambdas, even, but inferior to the Lambdas in several other respects._

 

this is exactly what I am looking at the sr5nb for. I've heard it has much fatter bass. I figure if I cant track one of these down for what I can afford, I'll go with the Denon 2000 for my prince fix.


----------



## tubenews

Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for an SRM-1/MK II Professional? Been looking everywhere and I can't find any info. Thanks for your help!


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that Stax used at least two transformer suppliers over the years as there are differences even within the same model group. The the transformers also changed over the years with the oldest units being covered in beeswax. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry for the off topic question

 Is there a way to built an adapter box to allow one to use the SRM-717 to drive dynamic phones?

 The dynamics could be low nominal input impedance
 (24 Ohm) or High (120 Ohm) but need not include the K-1000 which would be driven from a power amp.


----------



## spritzer

It's possible (almost identical to most tube amps out there which have output transformers) but I fail to see the reason to do something like that. The 717 is a fine amp but why subject the signal to a gain of 1000 just to bring it down again when you could build a Dynalo, M3 or something similar for the price of the custom wound transformers.


----------



## dickbianchi

I've been using my stax portable for a few months with good results. I connect my ipod classic to it with a short mini-mini cable. I began wondering if the performance would be improved with a cable that connected the bottom slot of the ipod to a miniplug, thereby bypassing the volume control.

 Theoretically it should be better, but for those of you with experience, is it?

 Any particular brand of cable you would recommend?

 Thanks.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been using my stax portable for a few months with good results. I connect my ipod classic to it with a short mini-mini cable. I began wondering if the performance would be improved with a cable that connected the bottom slot of the ipod to a miniplug, thereby bypassing the volume control.

 Theoretically it should be better, but for those of you with experience, is it?

 Any particular brand of cable you would recommend?

 Thanks._

 

What your looking for is a LOD, quite commonly used by the portable brigade to bypass the ipod volume for use with portable amps. There are a number of diy options or check out Qables who are a respected manufacturer. As to whether they make a difference or not theoretically yes they should particularly with something like a stax setup.


----------



## krmathis

dickbianchi. I highly recommend you try a LOD (Line Out Cable).
 Since it bypass the iPod's volume control and built in amplifier and hence should give you a cleaner signal to amplify. Which is a benefit as the SRM-001MK2 is quite transparent.

 There are multiple vendors of such cables out there, like Qables and ALO Audio.
 But for the SRM-001MK2 and iPod combo you may want to have one custom built for you, as you need (or want) an angled 3.5" plug and a bit longer cable than the standard ones. I am sure some Head-Fi'ers will help you out.


----------



## dickbianchi

Thanks for the feedback, krmathis and Oublier. I am going to order one. I went on both the ALO and Qables website. I have my ipod velcrowed to the stax amp and its only 11 or 12 cm from the input to the bottom slot of the ipod. Quables makes a right-angled plug cable that is 6" long, which should do the job nicely. I will check out some other sources as well.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the feedback, krmathis and Oublier. I am going to order one. I went on both the ALO and Qables website. I have my ipod velcrowed to the stax amp and its only 11 or 12 cm from the input to the bottom slot of the ipod. Quables makes a right-angled plug cable that is 6" long, which should do the job nicely. I will check out some other sources as well._

 

Highly recommend posting a WTB ad. Don't pay more then $50 for what you want.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minivan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_stax sr404 limited edition will be out on the 22 april. 
ƒXƒ^ƒbƒNƒXASR-LambdaƒVƒŠ[ƒY’a¶30Žü”N‹L”Oƒ‚ƒfƒ‹‚ð1,000‘äŒÀ’è‚Å”*”„ - Phile-web
 this is to commemorate the 30th anniversary of lsr-lambda, only 1000 of will be produce.cable will be copper with silver plating
 similar to sr007a ,earpad is real leather._

 

My Japanese translation service leaves a bit to be desired:

 "(The possession) [sutatsukusu] on April 22nd sells SR-404 LIMITED which becomes limited edition of the same company SR-404 with entire world 1,000 unit limitations. As for price 63,000 Yen (including tax).

 As for the knitting machine commemorating the birth 30th anniversary of the SR-Lambda series of the same company, the model which is sold. At the time of limitation conversion, the 6N Cu high purity annealed copper wire of φ0.14×3 is used to the centerline, the outer circle the silver plating hybrid cable of the new development which 6 arranges φ0.08×9 is adopted. Structure of the cable until recently SR-404 and makes parallel type similarly, assures the reduction of line capacity.

 In addition this leather which is adopted for the flagship model SR-007A of the same company (the sheep leather) adopting the year pad, the year pad of specification. In addition to the installation impression of permeability and the like, you say that also quality improvement of sound actualizes.

 It has become the model which has the suitable premium impression in limited edition e.g., the high-class impression in the body of the mat black which overflows the letter “Î› SERIES 30th ANNIVERSARY” the hallmark, the emblem of SR-404 LIMITED is installed in the head arc substance top and on the side.

 Furthermore, the driver unit which equips 5 pin PRO bias terminals becomes necessary in use of the knitting machine. "


----------



## manaox2

Kind of old news, I think it was posted back a bit. Yeah: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post5580038


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kind of old news, I think it was posted back a bit. Yeah: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post5580038_

 

Still, it's good news!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't think anyone has posted the link to an english PDF yet, so here goes:

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/ENG/SR404L..._news_ENGs.pdf


----------



## spritzer

Just so you know, they sold out on day 1 in Japan so the demand is very high. That was unfortunately before I could secure a set but I haven't given up, especially since I've managed to wrestle the stock SR-404 and get rid of the midrange hump.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just so you know, they sold out on day 1 in Japan so the demand is very high. That was unfortunately before I could secure a set but I haven't given up, especially since I've managed to wrestle the stock SR-404 and get rid of the midrange hump. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ouch. I guess we'll have to troll Yahoo Auctions until one shows up.


----------



## spritzer

...or just buy one from some other country. If they sound anything like the stock SR-404 then there will be internal pics of me ripping them apart on the second day.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...especially since I've managed to wrestle the stock SR-404 and get rid of the midrange hump. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

That's interesting. Would you care to share the secret? I don't think I'm gonna rip my 303's apart, especially considering that I've managed to compensate their frequency imbalances pretty well, but I'm sure many others would enjoy an improved 303 / 404.

 I really appreciate the huge amount of electrostats-related things you find out for yourself and share with the others, btw.


----------



## spritzer

There is a thread on it "over there" and it will not be posted here. I'm not allowed to post a link as per the unofficial HF rules.


----------



## mark_h

The 404 limited edition will be available in the UK june 1st.


----------



## tamahome77

I will be part of Team Stax shortly. Can anyone tell me the different between the SRM-007t and SRM-007ta driver unit besides one having pro and normal while the other has only 2x pro?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tamahome77* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will be part of Team Stax shortly. Can anyone tell me the different between the SRM-007t and SRM-007ta driver unit besides one having pro and normal while the other has only 2x pro?_

 

To add to the confusion: my 007t has 3 "pro only" outputs.
 In my opinion no sonic differences between the various 007 amps.
 ( with similar tubes installed )

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## krmathis

tamahome77. I know a couple more differences, and I am sure there are more.
 * The third input selector are moved to the front panel (from the rear).
 * SRM-007tA are 100v only (Japan only), while the SRM-007t accept 100, 110 or 230v. Matching the voltage in the country where it was originally sold.
 * New push buttons, since the old ones went out of production (afaik).


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...or just buy one from some other country. If they sound anything like the stock SR-404 then there will be internal pics of me ripping them apart on the second day. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that there will be pics of you ripping them apart on the 2d (or first) day regardless of what they sound like. Just a hunch... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Either way, I'm looking forward to it. I'm too strained financially right now to experiment or I'd be interested in getting a pair too


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I picked up a new Stax tonight.






 I was surprised at how decent the SR-80 sounds for an over 30 year old electret, as I have never heard any of the old electrets. In storage since the late 70's I was told, and other than the foam in front of the drivers deteriorating, and the individual 4 strands of the cable separating into pairs, they are in great shape. There is no channel imbalance and they fired right up. I tried them with my Woo GES and my Qinpu A-3 with SRD-7 Mk2 for a few songs, then moved into the bedroom to listen with my Nuforce Icon/SRD-7 Pro. They are not as good as my SR-5NB gold edition, but I think I like them as much as (or more than) the old SR-3 that I had for a while.


----------



## nothing101

long time no see headfi

 i recently got to go to japan. at the akihabara in tokyo it was headphone heaven. you could find and listen to just about any headphone on the market. i listened to the whole stax range as well as some high end dynamic headphones.

 after much time listening i can say that my favourite headphone is the stax 404. i preferred it to the omega. it had a more open, airy sound and it sounded less boxy than the omega. while it was not as warm i felt it was more ethereal sounding. anyone else prefer the 404?


----------



## feckn_eejit

I would suggest it's massively dependent on source and amplification, and what works well on the SR-404 might not work well on the O2s.


----------



## Sherwood

The O2 is also an extremely neutral headphone. It's hard to appreciate it without listening to it for a long time, and then listening to anything else.


----------



## tamahome77

Which driver unit did you listen to the 404 and the O2 with? Just curious.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nothing101* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_long time no see headfi

 i recently got to go to japan. at the akihabara in tokyo it was headphone heaven. you could find and listen to just about any headphone on the market. i listened to the whole stax range as well as some high end dynamic headphones.

 after much time listening i can say that my favourite headphone is the stax 404. i preferred it to the omega. it had a more open, airy sound and it sounded less boxy than the omega. while it was not as warm i felt it was more ethereal sounding. anyone else prefer the 404?_


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that there will be pics of you ripping them apart on the 2d (or first) day regardless of what they sound like. Just a hunch... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Either way, I'm looking forward to it. I'm too strained financially right now to experiment or I'd be interested in getting a pair too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm sure that there will be a few pics... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 is also an extremely neutral headphone. It's hard to appreciate it without listening to it for a long time, and then listening to anything else._

 

I've been spending a lot of time with a SR-404 lately and in stock for it is a very poor excuse for a Stax headphone. It does a lot of things right but that damn upper midrange peak destroys all the other good qualities in an instant. Even when fully rebuilt (no double sided adhesive used) and with both the front and the back of the drivers damped they are far from perfect. Still, I'm not done quite yet.


----------



## DouglasQuaid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sure that there will be a few pics... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 I've been spending a lot of time with a SR-404 lately and in stock for it is a very poor excuse for a Stax headphone. It does a lot of things right but that damn upper midrange peak destroys all the other good qualities in an instant. Even when fully rebuilt (no double sided adhesive used) and with both the front and the back of the drivers damped they are far from perfect. Still, I'm not done quite yet._

 

I'm looking forward to tearing my sr404 in pieces when you're done with your mods.


----------



## catscratch

I tried very hard to like the stock SR-404 over the 2 years that I had it, and with about 1/4 of my music, I did. Basically, I liked it with the part of my collection that didn't set off its damn upper midrange peak. As a headphone it really does a lot of things right, but then that damn coloration kicks in and everything that it does right simply doesn't matter. Then, when a $200 stock K340 out of an old $200 MG Head blew away the SR-404 out of the 007t, it was time for it to go...

 A more focused SR-404 sound without the nasty upper midrange peak could definitely go far. I would also improve its transients a bit since it generally sounds too dry, and I would definitely tighten up the soundstage, though that sort of overly diffuse soundstage also has its uses, especially with a lot of electronic music. In general the SR-404 is very good with electronic music, provided that it runs of a beefy punchy amp that can wake up its bass and dynamic range, and that the music doesn't set off its midrange colorations.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nothing101* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_long time no see headfi

 i recently got to go to japan. at the akihabara in tokyo it was headphone heaven. you could find and listen to just about any headphone on the market. i listened to the whole stax range as well as some high end dynamic headphones.

 after much time listening i can say that my favourite headphone is the stax 404. i preferred it to the omega. it had a more open, airy sound and it sounded less boxy than the omega. while it was not as warm i felt it was more ethereal sounding. anyone else prefer the 404?_

 

Any chance that you were listening to the limited edition SR-404? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I broke the cable on my SR-007, so I wonder if there's any chance I could get the new cable they made for the LE SR-404 to replace it...


----------



## nothing101

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any chance that you were listening to the limited edition SR-404? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I broke the cable on my SR-007, so I wonder if there's any chance I could get the new cable they made for the LE SR-404 to replace it..._

 


 nah it wasnt the limited edition. isnt the difference just cosmetics anyways?

 oh and i swapped around drivers so i heard both on a few.


----------



## Tachikoma

Cosmetics, and the new silver plated cable they made


----------



## ferraro25

After getting a WooAudio6 (dynamic headphone tube amp), I realize that dynamics are pretty much a joke in comparison to my SRS-2050II System. I'm sure the K1000-level dynamics sound comparable, but the HD650, K501, etc., are nothing compared to my SR-202.

 If I ever buy a dynamic again in the future, it is going to be something like the D7000, which is bassy and fun as hell, not trying and failing to be a reference-class headphone like so many modern dynamic headphones.

 The Omega II is my goal at this point.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been spending a lot of time with a SR-404 lately and in stock for it is a very poor excuse for a Stax headphone. It does a lot of things right but that damn upper midrange peak destroys all the other good qualities in an instant. ._

 

I find them excellent for classical orchestral, which I listen to quite a bit. The upper-mid peak brings out timbre and detail quite well. 

 Unfortunately if there is harshness in this region in the source, whether it be the music or the system this feature will sound bad. However as I have noted previously, some tweaks can tame this harshness, including silver contact paste on the pins of the plug (and just about everywhere else) and most recently the PS Audio Noise Harvester in the power strip (I use 2 of these) mellows out the sound a lot and leaves with with a much more listenable and even likeable upper mid peak.

 I would still not compare them to my 007a which has much more detail and precise localization of sound sources.

 I only have transistor amps. I wonder do the 404's mellow out more with tube amps?


----------



## spritzer

I've already gotten rid of the harshness in the upper midrange by removing the second layer of double sided adhesive but the peak can't be removed by any other means then damping the drivers. That in its self is far from easy since you have to trap just the right amount of air while not boosting the bass out of proportion at the same time. 

 The Stax tube amps will dull the coloration down but not enough to make it go away. I haven't tested it yet on the Egmont as it needs a new PSU but I should have the new PoorMan amp PSU up and running today so it can be tested and fitted to the Egmont.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I only have transistor amps. I wonder do the 404's mellow out more with tube amps?_

 

Still not the same as the SR-007 by a good amount in my opinion. The 007 is much better all around using my KGSS as a amp. I had the 404 and a T1S, and while sounding great by themselves, failed in comparison with my 007 and KGSS.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I broke the cable on my SR-007, so I wonder if there's any chance I could get the new cable they made for the LE SR-404 to replace it..._

 

Sorry to hear about the broken cable.
 Would be great fun if you could score the silver-plated cable from the SR-404 Limited though, and let us know if you notice any improvements. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not the ideal match looks wise though, black cable on brown 'phones.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to hear about the broken cable.
 Would be great fun if you could score the silver-plated cable from the SR-404 Limited though, and let us know if you notice any improvements. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not the ideal match looks wise though, black cable on brown 'phones._

 

I have a Stax SRX3MkII with with a similar type of silver/copper cable attached by Fitz and it raises the performance of these phones compared to my other SRX3MkII. I was just comparing them together and while they have a recognizeably similar sound signature, the volume with the recable is way up, and the sound is much richer and warmer, something these phones can really use. The effect is rather like what I got by switching to silver IC's.

 So I will be curious to know if Stax is onto something with the new cable and if this will be the new high-end standard.

 Listening to the recabled SRX3MkII on the old Neil Young Harvest album, sounded just about perfect even with my less than perfect Sherwood Newcastle CD player. Of course the Harvest cd is bassy and when I switched to a Frank Sinatra re-issue which I had earlier been listening to with the 007A with my best set-up it became clear that the SRX3II wasn't the ultimate system. Stll they often take you by surprise at just how good they can sound with some material.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to hear about the broken cable.
 Would be great fun if you could score the silver-plated cable from the SR-404 Limited though, and let us know if you notice any improvements. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not the ideal match looks wise though, black cable on brown 'phones._

 

The LE 404 cable would have to be made in the O2 cable's mould to fit in the first place, so the colour mismatch probably won't happen (I hope). I've emailed EIFL about it but I'm not very optimistic about it happening, truth be told.


----------



## audiod

It’s funny that for years silver plated copper interconnects were almost universally considered bright.


----------



## indikator

bid war anyone?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Translated version of http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e91295869


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It’s funny that for years silver plated copper interconnects were almost universally considered bright._

 

Most of them are but to a varying degree. What I'd really like to see is some Neotech UP-OCC silver in those cables... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_bid war anyone?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Translated version of http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e91295869_

 

I'm not going to touch that even though I want to own a T2 quite badly. That said they are unreliable beasts and from what we know of the design, the BH is far better. Much more power (higher bias on the output stage CCS), fully DC coupled (the T2 has input caps), far better PSU design (the T2's PSU is unregulated) and better parts selection (you can't beat a RK50 for a volume control).


----------



## Currawong

The T2 certainly looks the part.

 I'm back on the O2s, since the LNS, fun as they are, just aren't as detailed, and I'm a detail junkie.

 What I'm wondering is, if it'd be worth re-cabling the SR-5NBs. What do people reckon? If so, what cable and where does one get plugs?


----------



## Skin

not shipping outside of Japan anyway


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_not shipping outside of Japan anyway_

 

Just use a deputy service.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_not shipping outside of Japan anyway_

 

Well, there are always ways to get it if you're willing to pay.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The T2 certainly looks the part.

 I'm back on the O2s, since the LNS, fun as they are, just aren't as detailed, and I'm a detail junkie.

 What I'm wondering is, if it'd be worth re-cabling the SR-5NBs. What do people reckon? If so, what cable and where does one get plugs?_

 

I would just use the Stax Wide PC-OCC cable used on the top models and the indeed the LNS. It's sounds great and the 2.5m extension cables are pretty cheap and easy to work with. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_not shipping outside of Japan anyway_

 

Just ask Craig at KuboTen to bid on it for you. He's great to work with and helped me bid on that T2 back in October. Be prepared that this set may go to 700-800kYen.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It’s funny that for years silver plated copper interconnects were almost universally considered bright._

 

And one would think that would make them not suitable for most Stats which tend to be overly treblish, but I find these types of cables help just about everything.

 I recall that the first silver IC I bought, for the baby Stax, floored me with its richness of sound of just about all frequencies, and its ambience.


----------



## spritzer

There is a huge difference IMO between solid silver and silver plated with plated being a few orders of magnitude poorer then the solid silver. We shouldn't be too quick to discount the new cable as there is a lot of difference between 2v and 200v and how it affects the cable.


----------



## fraseyboy

So I just landed upon a pair of Stax Lambda Pro's. Me mam is paying half for birthday and I still only just have enough D: Suffice to say, I will not be able to afford an amp/energizer for it for a while.

 When I do, what are some models to look out for? I need to know the CHEAPEST way to get good sound out out of these. I already have a speaker amp so I can plug it into that.


----------



## n3rdling

Probably an SRD7


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just use the Stax Wide PC-OCC cable used on the top models and the indeed the LNS. It's sounds great and the 2.5m extension cables are pretty cheap and easy to work with._

 

Thanks for that. I'm daft in that I should have thought of the extension cables in the first place. I suppose that not having the 6th pin doesn't matter (since it's connected to another pin inside the last amp I looked in)? Or are there 6-pin extension cables?


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to know the CHEAPEST way to get good sound out out of these. I already have a speaker amp so I can plug it into that._

 

The absolute cheapest is to get a Stax normal bias transformer like SRD-6SB and run them out of that (via your speaker amp). It will make sound, for sure.

 Unfortunately, the pro bias transformers are just as expensive as an amp, running from between $250-350 USD on here, if you can find them at all.

 You might be better off getting a modern Stax amp when you have the cash.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The absolute cheapest is to get a Stax normal bias transformer like SRD-6SB and run them out of that (via your speaker amp). It will make sound, for sure.

 Unfortunately, the pro bias transformers are just as expensive as an amp, running from between $250-350 USD on here, if you can find them at all.

 You might be better off getting a modern Stax amp when you have the cash._

 

Dangit. That's more than I payed for the headphones. I guess I'll have to just imagine sound coming from them for a while :[

 You mean something like the Stax SRM-252A, $330 at Audiocubes?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that. I'm daft in that I should have thought of the extension cables in the first place. I suppose that not having the 6th pin doesn't matter (since it's connected to another pin inside the last amp I looked in)? Or are there 6-pin extension cables?_

 

The extra pin doesn't matter as the bias is always connected together, whether it is at the socket in the 6 pin Normal bias or at the plug in 5 pin. It could be a good idea to mount a dummy pin to the plug to prevent damage though.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just ask Craig at KuboTen to bid on it for you. He's great to work with and helped me bid on that T2 back in October. Be prepared that this set may go to 700-800kYen._

 

How do I contact Craig?

 Edit: Has anyone else here used KyboTen or delt with Craig? I'm not familiar with the company.


----------



## Currawong

I believe a fair few head-fi'ers have. I live around the corner from him (literally, and a hugely unexpected discovery considering the obscure corner of Japan we live in), so I can vouch for him in that he's a very good guy in person. He's LobsterSan on Head-fi.


----------



## 2deadeyes

Craig is a wonderful person to deal with - got a pair of O2MK1 through his Kuboten service.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dangit. That's more than I payed for the headphones. I guess I'll have to just imagine sound coming from them for a while :[

 You mean something like the Stax SRM-252A, $330 at Audiocubes?_

 

There are also a number of Older Stax portable amps (run off 6 c-cells or a transformer) variously called SRDP etc. 








 These sometimes go cheaply. Make sure you get either a transformer or amp with a pro bias outlet. Pro phones will run of a normal bias but will be way off their best performance. Of course if you get a normal bias something for $30.00 or so it might at least get some sound to your phones.


----------



## malldian

Anyone have a lambda headband unit they are looking to sell?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have a lambda headband unit they are looking to sell?_

 

Just be glad you aren't trying to get ahold of a 4070 one. I'm now fairly sure they're complete unobtanium.


----------



## mypasswordis

I still need one as well, now that I've sold a Lambda. I'm such an idiot. Might end up just buying a SR-202 headband to use, but it's ~100 bucks.


----------



## malldian

Man I well overpaid for a SRD7 coming from Kuboten. Lesson learned...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I just landed upon a pair of Stax Lambda Pro's. Me mam is paying half for birthday and I still only just have enough D: Suffice to say, I will not be able to afford an amp/energizer for it for a while.

 When I do, what are some models to look out for? I need to know the CHEAPEST way to get good sound out out of these. I already have a speaker amp so I can plug it into that._

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 A nice pair of Stax'en indeed, and it will certainly give you the taste of electrostatics.

 As for getting sound out of them. Ideally you would want a Pro bias SRD-7 (Pro or MK2), but these days they seem to run for $300±.
 An SRD-7 (Normal bias) would work as well, but not ideal.


----------



## malldian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 A nice pair of Stax'en indeed, and it will certainly give you the taste of electrostatics.

 As for getting sound out of them. Ideally you would want a Pro bias SRD-7 (Pro or MK2), but these days they seem to run for $300±.
 An SRD-7 (Normal bias) would work as well, but not ideal._

 

Why would it not be ideal?


----------



## Sherwood

Normal bias provides about half the recommended bias voltage that pro-bias 'phones like. They will still play, but the dynamics are greatly reduced, and the top and bottom rolls off significantly.

 It's like plugging your 650's into an iPod. It'll make sound, but it's a very mismatched pairing that doesn't showcase either the transformer or the headphones. Best to pair normal bias with normal bias, and pro bias with pro bias.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why would it not be ideal?_

 

Because of its 230 volt (Normal) bias supply, while the SR-Lambda Pro are designed for 580 volt (Pro) bias. Its not harmful to the 'phones and they will play, but they wont show off their full potential.

 Edit: 'Sherwood' beat me to it...


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: 'Sherwood' beat me to it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Like a hawk, Kai


----------



## Dexon

Hi there.

 After two weeks of anticipation I finally received stax 2050a today. I was so excited to hear it. Unfortunately, srm212 unit won't start. That red LED doesn't power on or show any signs of life. Phones came from Japan without ac/dc adapter so I prepared my own 2A bench psu which seem fine. I don't have any other ac/dc adapter at home or any other device that I can try using this PSU so I can't exclude it as a culprit. I think everything is set correctly (polarity,12v..) but I refuse to ascertain that srm212 is broken. Any advice, anything specific I should check, please help!


----------



## spritzer

There is a fuse inside the amp so you can check that but what polarity did you use? Stax gear has the center pin as - and the barrel as +.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Woo Audio has just announced the prototype of it's latest balanced stat amp WES Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Any chance of this driving the beastly Omegas?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo Audio has just announced the prototype of it's latest balanced stat amp WES Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Any chance of this driving the beastly Omegas?_

 

I really like the design, I hope its cheaper then the A-10.


----------



## fuzzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo Audio has just announced the prototype of it's latest balanced stat amp WES Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Any chance of this driving the beastly Omegas?_

 



 I never thought of my Omegas as "beastly"  ?

 And is there really a need for something other then Stax's own 717 amp (or for some, the tube version). Seems very hard to beat.

 Are these various other amp options truly for sound improvements or more for a cheaper alternative to the Stax amps?


----------



## Skin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fuzzy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never thought of my Omegas as "beastly"  ?

 And is there really a need for something other then Stax's own 717 amp (or for some, the tube version). Seems very hard to beat.

 Are these various other amp options truly for sound improvements or more for a cheaper alternative to the Stax amps?_

 

the consensus is the more voltage swing the amp allows for the better it will perform with the O2. Stax's own amps work of course but are generally a bit on the cheap side, component wise.

 Stax themselves know this as well and they did experiment some time ago with an Amp called the SRM-T2 [40% higher voltage output than the 717] but it was quickly discontinued when the company went belly up and never resurfaced.


----------



## Dexon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a fuse inside the amp so you can check that but what polarity did you use? Stax gear has the center pin as - and the barrel as +._

 

The adapter has replaceable plugs which allow polarity settings, although I did do it right, with - on the center pin. Anyway, if somehow I did set it wrong, have I fried my srm212? Is there a way to tell if fuse is broken, visually? Will I loose japanese warranty if I open srm212 to check the fuse?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo Audio has just announced the prototype of it's latest balanced stat amp WES Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Any chance of this driving the beastly Omegas?_

 

We need to know more data but if there is enough bias on those EL34's then it should do an ok job with the Omegas. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The adapter has replaceable plugs which allow polarity settings, although I did do it right, with - on the center pin. Anyway, if somehow I did set it wrong, have I fried my srm212? Is there a way to tell if fuse is broken, visually? Will I loose japanese warranty if I open srm212 to check the fuse?_

 

If it is a SRM-212 then there is probably no warranty since it is an old model (the 252 is the new amp). Since the polarity was incorrect then the fuse is lamost certainly blown and it might have taken a few parts with it.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We need to know more data but if there is enough bias on those EL34's then it should do an ok job with the Omegas. _

 

So this amp has better chance to drive the Omegas than the RSA A-10?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo Audio has just announced the prototype of it's latest balanced stat amp WES Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier

 Any chance of this driving the beastly Omegas?_

 

Looks quite nice! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Not all too found of the transparent (glass?) plates though.

 For a long time there have been sort of lacking higher end electrostatic amplifiers, and now we have three new ones the last month'ish. Great!
 Will be fun to see how this one competes with the KBGBH SE and A-10, both sound and price wise.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the consensus is the more voltage swing the amp allows for the better it will perform with the O2. Stax's own amps work of course but are generally a bit on the cheap side, component wise.

 Stax themselves know this as well and they did experiment some time ago with an Amp called the SRM-T2 [40% higher voltage output than the 717] but it was quickly discontinued when the company went belly up and never resurfaced._

 

Spritzer says it also depends on the amp being able to push the current that the sats need at some frequencies when the impedance drops, and the ability of the amp to handle a capacitive load.


----------



## lwd

Hi guys. I have a pair of Lambda Pro Sigs that unfortunately were damaged during transport and one driver is no longer functioning. Does anybody know if it is possible to get the drivers replaced with original Lambda Pro Sig drivers? The UK Stax distributor has said they could put 404 drivers in, but I already have a pair of functioning Lambda Pros, and feel the Pro Sigs with 404 drivers would probably not be an improvement over the Lambda Pros. Any thoughts?


----------



## Currawong

lwd: Back when I bought my LNS, Sprizer said that Stax only replace the drivers with 404 drivers and toss the LNS ones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did get mine for only about $220 from Yahoo Auctions (Japan) so depending on your budget, simply looking for another pair might be simpler.


----------



## Skin

make sure the driver is actually dead first though. could be a simple broken wire/solder joint.


----------



## Currawong

By the way, the Golden Week holiday in Japan starts in a week, so if you're hunting for Stax, while there are fewer auctions on Yahoo Auctions, there are likely to be less people bidding as they are saving their money for travelling back home to visit family. There are a couple of SR-Xs with amps going at the moment, for example. You'd need to use Kuboten.com as an intermediary to do the bidding for you though.


----------



## lwd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_make sure the driver is actually dead first though. could be a simple broken wire/solder joint._

 

Yeah, I sent it to the UK Stax distributor and they said it would need new drivers. Unless they are trying to just screw me for more money of course!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lwd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I sent it to the UK Stax distributor and they said it would need new drivers. Unless they are trying to just screw me for more money of course!_

 

Did driver make any sound at all? A squeal of some sorts is a clue to what's going on, believe it or not. Stax saying that the drivers need to replaced says nothing really since they always act like that. I've got an SR-Omega here which supposedly had bad drivers but when I fire them up, all is well.


----------



## The Monkey

Would dust make the Lambdas squeal?


----------



## spritzer

The squeal would point to the diaphragm getting at least some bias. If there is dust inside the driver then they can squeal.


----------



## ericj

Squeal could be caused by a short in the wiring as well, couldn't it?


----------



## spritzer

AC from the drive voltages leaking into the bias will cause some very wild things. The bias could also leak onto the drive voltages but the bias supplies are high impedance so there isn't much to give there.


----------



## Currawong

I found an interesting ebay auction for "TEN NOS RCA CLEAR TOP 6FQ7/6CG7 PRE AMP TUBE". Would these be worth getting for a 007t as spares?


----------



## fraseyboy

Yay! According to the track and trace, my Lambda Pro's are in New Zealand! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Gonna be a while before I need this advice, but I thought I'd ask now anyway.

 Would it be better to go:

 DAC > Driver Unit > Headphones 

 or 

 DAC > Tube Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 How much of an impact on the sound would the addition of a tube amp (Little Dot MK II) have?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay! According to the track and trace, my Lambda Pro's are in New Zealand! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gonna be a while before I need this advice, but I thought I'd ask now anyway.

 Would it be better to go:

 DAC > Driver Unit > Headphones 

 or 

 DAC > Tube Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 How much of an impact on the sound would the addition of a tube amp (Little Dot MK II) have?_

 

It better be able to power speakers to power your driver unit. An amp is required. (parts express sells a sonic impact amp for $70)


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It better be able to power speakers to power your driver unit. An amp is required. (parts express sells a sonic impact amp for $70)_

 

Oh I thought that was only required for the energizers... I have a speaker amp already.

 So would it be Speaker Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 In that case, would the addition of a tube amp in between the speaker amp and the driver unit make much of a difference?

 Also, is there any way to work my DAC into this... It only has digital inputs.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh I thought that was only required for the energizers... I have a speaker amp already.

 So would it be Speaker Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 In that case, would the addition of a tube amp in between the speaker amp and the driver unit make much of a difference?

 Also, is there any way to work my DAC into this... It only has digital inputs._

 

I'm guessing that your speaker amp is a solid state integrated amp, stereo receiver, or Audio/Video receiver, is this correct?

 The Creative soundcards usually have a multi-jack for digital output.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh I thought that was only required for the energizers... I have a speaker amp already.

 So would it be Speaker Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 In that case, would the addition of a tube amp in between the speaker amp and the driver unit make much of a difference?

 Also, is there any way to work my DAC into this... It only has digital inputs._

 

I thought the driver unit was your energizer.. sorry! I probably wouldn't add any more amplifiers into the chain, it will probably only add to distortion. DAC couldn't hurt.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay! According to the track and trace, my Lambda Pro's are in New Zealand! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great to hear that its closing in! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Don't seem like you so far have anything to drive it with though. So no fun just quite yet.

 Which lead me to... Quote:


 Would it be better to go:

 DAC > Driver Unit > Headphones 

 or 

 DAC > Tube Amp > Driver Unit > Headphones?

 How much of an impact on the sound would the addition of a tube amp (Little Dot MK II) have? 
 

You basically have two options:
 1. *DAC* -> *Speaker amplifier* (tube or SS) -> *Transformer* (ex. Stax SRD-7 Pro) -> *Headphone*.
 2. *DAC* -> *Energizer* (ex. Stax SRM-1/MK2 Pro) -> *Headphone*.

 The Little Dot MKII don't fit in anywhere in that line. So just keep it for your moving-coil headphone(s).


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Little Dot MKII don't fit in anywhere in that line. So just keep it for your moving-coil headphone(s)._

 

Some of us have fed an SRD-X with a tubed headphone amp, but that's just because the SRD-X sounds dry and lifeless otherwise. 

 One of these days I'll finish my class-T SRD-X conversion.


----------



## veloaudio

Anyone know how to open up a 252 amp? There is one screw on the bottom that is visible. Are there any under the feet?


----------



## spritzer

It's been a while but there are now screws underneath the feet. There are screws on the bottom and then you pull the shell off the amp by pulling it backwards.


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been a while but there are now screws underneath the feet. There are screws on the bottom and then you pull the shell off the amp by pulling it backwards._

 

Thanks, that's what I figured but since the feet are glued on I wanted to ask.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great to hear that its closing in! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Don't seem like you so far have anything to drive it with though. So no fun just quite yet.

 Which lead me to...
 You basically have two options:
 1. *DAC* -> *Speaker amplifier* (tube or SS) -> *Transformer* (ex. Stax SRD-7 Pro) -> *Headphone*.
 2. *DAC* -> *Energizer* (ex. Stax SRM-1/MK2 Pro) -> *Headphone*.

 The Little Dot MKII don't fit in anywhere in that line. So just keep it for your moving-coil headphone(s)._

 

Ah ok. So I'll try to get an SRM-1/MK2 Pro over an SRD-7 Pro if possible. Means less wires.

 Yeah, I'm still nowhere near driving them. I won't be getting them till June anyway (birthday) so there's plenty of time


----------



## veloaudio

Wel I finally got my SRS-005ii system up and running. First thing I listened to was 'Bach: Oster-Oratorium' [Harmonia Mundi] and I can't believe how amazing these little SR-003 sound! There were some passage where my W3000 would distort in the upper frequencies not so with the SR-003. Vocals are much more crisp.

 So my setup is this:

 Macbook -> Isabellina -> SRM-252a -> SR-003

 Only con so far is I hear much more noticeable hum when music isn't playing in between songs. I can't hear it while the music is playing though.

 I think my wallet may be in trouble now


----------



## Hopstretch

We're having roughly the same experience today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Just got my own little SRS-005 rig hooked up and it sounds ridiculously good. I intially thought comfort might be a deal-breaker, but changing to the larger ear pads and getting the angles right has taken care of that.


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hopstretch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We're having roughly the same experience today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Just got my own little SRS-005 rig hooked up and it sounds ridiculously good. I intially thought comfort might be a deal-breaker, but changing to the larger ear pads and getting the angles right has taken care of that._

 






 Ridiculously good is right. It took me a little while to get the fit right as well (I only have one size ear pad) but everything is okay now. Time will tell how I do on a long listening session. The SR-003 is very impressive. Anyone want to loan me a O2 / 007t system so I can compare?


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think my wallet may be in trouble now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Lol, you haven't just been told that the O2/007t rig you've borrowed has to be given back soon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found an interesting ebay auction for "TEN NOS RCA CLEAR TOP 6FQ7/6CG7 PRE AMP TUBE". Would these be worth getting for a 007t as spares?_

 

Just bumping this question in case knowledgeable people missed it.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hopstretch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We're having roughly the same experience today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just got my own little SRS-005 rig hooked up and it sounds ridiculously good. I intially thought comfort might be a deal-breaker, but changing to the larger ear pads and getting the angles right has taken care of that._

 

Don't want to say "I told you so..." but I did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How are you wearing it? I generally wear it on the headband, large pads, headphones not shoved into the ears but resting just outside of the ear canals with the headband providing clamping force to keep them in place. But, fit really is anatomy-dependent and this won't give the best results for everyone.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Ridiculously good is right. It took me a little while to get the fit right as well (I only have one size ear pad) but everything is okay now. Time will tell how I do on a long listening session. The SR-003 is very impressive. Anyone want to loan me a O2 / 007t system so I can compare? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

02/717 here but the 003 does have some similarities. It's closer to the O2 Mk1 sound in terms of sound signature than anything else in the current Stax lineup (the O2 Mk2 diverges from that sound signature though and is closer to the SR-404 in some ways).

 The midrange tone is somewhat similar, both headphones have a weighty, impactful sound, and both headphones present detail in a very unobtrusive, refined manner. The detail is all there, and with the O2 specifically resolution is higher than any other headphone I've ever heard, but it's not presented on a silver platter and it takes a back seat to the overall feel and flow of the music. The 003 isn't quite as detailed but it's still very very detailed and the relaxed and musical presentation of detail is the same.

 Still, the O2 is on a completely different level in terms of refinement, and its refinement is uniform across all frequencies. It's a lot more fluid, much more airy, has limitless extension top and bottom, even more weight and tactile impact, the best imaging I've heard in a headphone with a very focused and completely 3-dimensional soundstage, is nearly perfectly balanced, and in general is one heck of a lot more transparent. But, it's also more laid-back and polite, at times too polite with some sources, though it can also sound forward when you have a forward source. It's a pig to drive obviously, and it will sound dark with loose, wooly bass, recessed highs, and insufficient dynamic range when it's underdriven. The 007t is inadequate though a nice amp for easier-to-drive phones, and the 717 is basically the bare minimum, unless you have a good speaker amp and can get your hands on a pro-bias transformer. But you really do need a Blue Hawaii or that new Woo amp that should hopefully have the juice to drive the O2 (the current GES is too weak, though also a great amp for less demanding phones). You will also need a source that can handle the most detailed headphone ever made, so you can simply guess how good that source has to be.


----------



## hopalong243

Hi
 I`ve just bought a pair of Stax SR lambda signature and a SRD-X proffesionell unit. and i got some questions:
 1. The signature i`ve bought is black and not brown.
 can this be a regular lamda and not signature model?
 (seriesnr : Lamda 30392 )
 and it says signature on the package




 2. What models of the tube drivers suit this headphone?
 here are the SRD-X





 Sorry for my bad english

 Regards Hopalong 243


----------



## spritzer

That's either a SR-Lambda or a Lambda Pro. It's probably the Professional (should say so on top of each earpiece) given that the SRD-X is the Pro model.


----------



## edstrelow

[/IMG]

 Another trip through the American west with the portable Stax SR001k2 and portable cd player. This day the weather was fine in Monument Valley Arizona but mostly we were forced by bad weather to give up camping for motels.

 Travelling with the Baby Stax allows some semblance of high-fi during one's travels. If it was all I had I guess I could survive.


----------



## krmathis

hopalong243. First of all, welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Those certainly are not SR-Lambda Signature's as those are dark brown. So the seller have matched the wrong 'phones with the box. The SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Pro are black though.

 In either case, they are all great headphones. Enjoy!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Another trip through the American west with the portable Stax SR001k2 and portable cd player. This day the weather was fine in Monument Valley Arizona but mostly we were forced by bad weather to give up camping for motels.

 Travelling with the Baby Stax allows some semblance of high-fi during one's travels. If it was all I had I guess I could survive._

 

Wait until you try a modded SR-001, which sounds more like an SR-003 off an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. Much better extension at both ends and less hump in the middle, with a better sense of ambience and space and detail.


----------



## bjarnetv

has anyone tried modding the sr-001 itself, not just the amp?
 a wooden or metal babystax would be awesome


----------



## spritzer

I can't see any way to mod the SR-001/003 unless you want to come up with something which is actually worse (like some of the professional "mods" out there). The drivers are specially designed for that particular role (i.e. to fire through a port) and will sound odd without the right air impedance. The housing also secures the drivers in place and they would just fall apart without it.


----------



## bjarnetv

i wasnt thinking of changing the basic design, i was thinking more in the lines of improving fit/comfort by changing the design of the ports, and maybe making a custom housing from "better" (or at least better looking) materials then plastic.


----------



## spritzer

Change the port, change the sound. The drivers are very strange as just the part which is open at the back is perforated (the stators are etched copper) so most of the stator area is closed. 

 The housing isn't that bad despite being made of cheap plastic. It's small so very strong and ultimately anchored inside the head. The 001/003's main problem is driving them properly. They sing from a BH and reproduce vocals better then all other headphones bar the Omegas.


----------



## hopalong243

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hopalong243. First of all, welcome to Head-Fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Those certainly are not SR-Lambda Signature's as those are dark brown. So the seller have matched the wrong 'phones with the box. The SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Pro are black though.

 In either case, they are all great headphones. Enjoy!_

 


 Thank you 
 Are you 100% shure?
 The seller are 100% shure that it is a signature.
 Can i find out this of the seriesnr?
 can the brown parts be replaced?
 it shall use the pro only output.
 Havent got them yet so..

 What models of the Stax tube drivers suit this headphone?


----------



## gsawdy

Since you folks are thinking about the 001 vs 003, I'm wondering if anyone can comment on this strategy to get limited portability: buy the SRS-005 and then try to pick up a used SRM-X pro. I know it wouldn't have the super portability of the SRS001 system but would it sound better? The question is about sound quality, not degree of portability or length of run time on battery.
 Also, has anyone tried powering the SRM-252 or the SRM-X pro from a car's cigar lighter socket? Any distortion?
 George
 Yes, I'm aware that this can be a slippery slope.....


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hopalong243* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you 
 Are you 100% shure?
 The seller are 100% shure that it is a signature.
 Can i find out this of the seriesnr?
 can the brown parts be replaced?_

 

Yes, the SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Professional are black. There is a new SR-404 Limited edition that is black but it's not likely that you scored one.

 The seller may just be reading the box. You can look at the top of the earspeaker housings and they will say Signature (for the SR-Lambda Signature), professional (SR-Lambda Professional), or just be blank (SR-Lambda)


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hopalong243* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you 
 Are you 100% shure?
 The seller are 100% shure that it is a signature.
 Can i find out this of the seriesnr?
 can the brown parts be replaced?
 it shall use the pro only output.
 Havent got them yet so..

 What models of the Stax tube drivers suit this headphone?_

 

hopalong, those don't look like Lambda Signatures. 

 Lambda Signatures:
Have "Signature" on the top of each earpeaker
Have a 5-pin gold plated plug
Have a brown cord
Aren't all black
Also, SRM-007t, SRM-T1, and SRM-T1S are said to be good tube amps for Lambda model earpseakers.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The Woo GES is by far my favorite amp for the Lambdas.


----------



## Currawong

I wish I had $6k for a BHSE, but I'm not dissatisfied with the O2/007t combo at the moment. I bought some Herbies microsonic tube dampers and they made significant difference, most noticeably boosting the bass, so I don't feel so much that I need to plug in the LNS to get some punch now.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I bought some Herbies microsonic tube dampers and they made significant difference, most noticeably boosting the bass_

 

Interesting. I also bought 6 tube dampers from Herbie for my amp but I didn't hear even the smallest difference.


----------



## hopalong243

Thank you plaidplatypus and powertoold
 this helps a lot


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hopalong243* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you 
 Are you 100% shure?
 The seller are 100% shure that it is a signature.
 Can i find out this of the seriesnr?
 can the brown parts be replaced?
 it shall use the pro only output.
 Havent got them yet so.._

 

Yes, I am 100% sure. The the SR-Lambda Signature is brown, while your pair both look and are referred to as black. Hence its either a SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Pro

 The brown parts can be replaced, but then all external parts need to be replaced (cable, housing, earpads and headband). Very unlikely.


----------



## hopalong243

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I am 100% sure. The the SR-Lambda Signature is brown, while your pair both look and are referred to as black. Hence its either a SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Pro

 The brown parts can be replaced, but then all external parts need to be replaced (cable, housing, earpads and headband). Very unlikely._

 


 OK 
 No matter what it is,i am going to buy this ( havent recieved it yet)
 What is the sound diffrences between signature/pro and SR lambda?


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hopalong, those don't look like Lambda Signatures. 

 Lambda Signatures:
Have "Signature" on the top of each earpeaker
Have a 5-pin gold plated plug
Have a brown cord
Aren't all black
Also, SRM-007t, SRM-T1, and SRM-T1S are said to be good tube amps for Lambda model earpseakers._

 

You can also add the T1W to the list. I would stay away from the 006t. It has a little upper midrange brightness that doesn’t work well with the Lambda's. The description of the Sig is absolutely corrrect.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I am 100% sure. The the SR-Lambda Signature is brown, while your pair both look and are referred to as black. Hence its either a SR-Lambda or SR-Lambda Pro_

 

The Lambda Pro is High Bias and has a 5 pin plug. The SR-Lambda is Low Bias and has a 6 pin plug. They are both great phones. The SR-Lambda has the most even response of all the series. The Lambda Pro is more distant in the midrange but is more dynamic and deeper in the bass.


----------



## spritzer

...and the Lambda Signature is the resolution king but they have to used with a powerful amp to keep the upper midrange etch in check. Also their tone is slightly different to the SR-Lambda/L-Pro's due to the lack of damping.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gsawdy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since you folks are thinking about the 001 vs 003, I'm wondering if anyone can comment on this strategy to get limited portability: buy the SRS-005 and then try to pick up a used SRM-X pro. I know it wouldn't have the super portability of the SRS001 system but would it sound better? The question is about sound quality, not degree of portability or length of run time on battery.
 Also, has anyone tried powering the SRM-252 or the SRM-X pro from a car's cigar lighter socket? Any distortion?
 George
 Yes, I'm aware that this can be a slippery slope....._

 

I have the 003's which I run from various amps including the big 717 and I can't say that I am blown over by the increase in quality over the SR001 system which in my system sounds pretty good with the simple upgrade of a silver IC between the amp and portable cd. Also small Sorbethan footers on the cd player help.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and the Lambda Signature is the resolution king but they have to used with a powerful amp to keep the upper midrange etch in check. Also their tone is slightly different to the SR-Lambda/L-Pro's due to the lack of damping._

 

I have a Lambda Sig coming in the mail soon and hope its as good as many people say. I expect to run it from an SRM1Mk2. If it's better than a Lambda Nova Classic, the Nova will be sold. If it's not as good as the 404 the Sig will be sold. 

 On a different note, I just came back from a weekend in LA to see Die Walkure. A very interesting but strange opera production, the LA Opera's first Walkure and part of its first Ring cycle. I saw Das Rheingold about a month back. Siegfried and Gotterdamerung are coming next year. It is unfortunately a director-driven production by the German director Achim Freyer. I would describe it as postmodern staging with some Geman Expressionism. 

 My wife described it as "Wagner on peyote." Some good ideas but the Valkyrie warrior maidens on bicycles rather than horses?







 EDIT - Oh! Ring Cycle, now I get it!

 We had good loge (first balcony, center) seats which in my opinion are best for opera because the opera orchestra is in pit and if you are on the ground floor you will get no direct sound from the orchestra. In the loge seats you get a good balance of orchestra and vocal sound.

 So as always when I go to a live performance I try to compare the experience with recorded sound. Generaly I would say it is a split as which is better sonically. Certainly for full volume climaxes, you cannot beat live sound. And anyone who thinks their cost-be-damned system can match the live sound of a an 80 piece orchestra, 60 voice choir and a half dozen operatic soloists at full tilt would have to convince me that they regularly attend large-scale, unamplified performances of such material and pay for the good seats. There is just no way a playback can match live sound even with a megabuck system since the recording itself will be a weak link. 

 HOWEVER, for most of the rest of the experience, a good playback system such as the Stax 007/404/Sigma/404 is clearly better. For a start there is the issue of background noise. Aside from audience noise, which comes and goes ( it can be quite impressive to see/hear the 3,000 plus persons at the LA Chandler Hall become pin-drop silent in crtical moments), the noise from the airconditioners needed to keep those 3000 people cool and awake during a 5 hour Wagner experience, is more than any serious headphone listener would tolerate. And then there are deadspots on the stage. Brunhilde at stage rear was somewhat muffled. Although mostly at the Chandler the singers stay mid to front stage, which works pretty well. 

 Of course no audio-only recording can carry the dramatic impact of a comparably well-performed stage production or even a well-recorded dvd. In the old days I preferred opera recordings because they allowed me to read the translations as I listened. Now surtitle translations (above the stage) are standard and very effective. Based on recordings, I had previously felt that Wagner was a great orchestrator but anabysmal dramatist (he did his own books). However, even with the rather bizarre LA production, I was left impressed by the effectiveness of the drama in both Rheingold and Walkure.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Lambda Sig coming in the mail soon and hope its as good as many people say. I expect to run it from an SRM1Mk2. If it's better than a Lambda Nova Classic, the Nova will be sold. If it's not as good as the 404 the Sig will be sold._

 

All I have to compare mine to is the Lambda Pro, but aside from the bass not being as strong, I've come around to it in a big way. At first I didn't like it as much, but after upgrading my source (still not high end or anything, but thank god!), a tube roll and some more listening, I keep coming back for the midrange. I can't imagine getting rid of these. Enjoy!


----------



## veloaudio

Stax newbie question: Any comments on how the 404LE might sound with the Woo GES?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax newbie question: Any comments on how the 404LE might sound with the Woo GES?_

 

I have heard Lambda Pros, Lambda Sigs, and 303s out of the GES and I have enjoyed them all very much. I would think the 404LE would be a nice match.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Of course no audio-only recording can carry the dramatic impact of a comparably well-performed stage production or even a well-recorded dvd. In the old days I preferred opera recordings because they allowed me to read the translations as I listened. Now surtitle translations (above the stage) are standard and very effective. Based on recordings, I had previously felt that Wagner was a great orchestrator but abysmal dramatist (he did his own books). However, even with the rather bizarre LA production I was left impressed by the effectiveness of the drama in both Rheingold and Walkure._

 

I've pretty much given up on audio-only recordings of opera. I hate trying to synchronize a hand held libretto with the singing. I love DVDs of opera and continue to collect them. Opera is drama and unless I know what is being sung, the singing is rarely effective for me. I would never go to opera before supertitles.

 My first live Wagner was a production of Siegfried (about 20 years ago in San Francisco). I was dragged kicking and screaming, thinking of Siegfried as the least interesting of the Ring, and since I was overly tired, expecting to fall asleep. I was in a seat similar to the one you describe and I could easily see the stage, the titles and the conductor. It was riveting, a universe of theatre and music. God knows there are some slow parts, and occasionally my attention shifted to Edo de Waart and the band. I was never bored and remembered getting more and more awake as the opera progressed. 

 I frequently watch an opera DVD by myself, and wonderful as it sometimes is, it cannot match the excitement of being in the audience and the feeling of camraderie that live theatre brings or the thrill of participating in a brilliant performance. That said, I remember the first time I heard Solti's Reingold.....

 I envy you your live opera!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My first live Wagner was a production of Siegfried (about 20 years ago in San Francisco). I was dragged kicking and screaming, thinking of Siegfried as the least interesting of the Ring, and since I was overly tired, expecting to fall asleep. I was in a seat similar to the one you describe and I could easily see the stage, the titles and the conductor. It was riveting, a universe of theatre and music. God knows there are some slow parts, and occasionally my attention shifted to Edo de Waart and the band. I was never bored and remembered getting more and more awake as the opera progressed. 

 I frequently watch an opera DVD by myself, and wonderful as it sometimes is, it cannot match the excitement of being in the audience and the feeling of camraderie that live theatre brings or the thrill of participating in a brilliant performance. That said, I remember the first time I heard Solti's Reingold.....

 I envy you your live opera!_

 

I was quite surprised at how much the audience seemed to be following the story of Walkure. This was after all a 5 hour performance. Even I dozed a bit in the first act. I had had a big meal in LA's Chinatown shortly before the opera and I nearly always nap after a meal, preferably with headphones on . 

 You know what they say about mixing German music with Chinese food, it''s filling at first but soon leaves you hungry for power. 

 The old joke about Wagner is that the music is better than it sounds. 

 For this performance, I was left realizing that Wagner's stories are better than they read. I guess the somewhat wacky production did actually work.

 The Solti Rheingold was the first good stereo recording of a Ring opera and I doubt it has been bettered.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and the Lambda Signature is the resolution king but they have to used with a powerful amp to keep the upper midrange etch in check. Also their tone is slightly different to the SR-Lambda/L-Pro's due to the lack of damping._

 

Indeed. I love the Lambda Signature driven by the 717. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Lambda Sig coming in the mail soon and hope its as good as many people say. I expect to run it from an SRM1Mk2. If it's better than a Lambda Nova Classic, the Nova will be sold. If it's not as good as the 404 the Sig will be sold._

 

Oooh... they are good alright. I have a 717 (and T1). I ditched my O2mk1 after owning both headphone(O2mk1 and L.Sig) side by side. I've got another backup Lambda Sig coming my way in a week. Go figure. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IIANM, you have owned a few Grado RS1s in the past right? Did you like em? I love the pink driver RS1, and IMO, the Lambda Signature takes away the occasional treble peak/shouty~ness of the RS1, adds tons of details/resolution, a nicer head stage(diffuse, not extreme L/R separation like the RS1). Also, as much as the RS1 has great mids, the Lambda Sig betters them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Use your 717 to drive them. Don't bother with your SRM1Mk2. Even when going from the T1 to the 717 I noticed a difference. So going from SRM1Mk2 to 717 must be an even bigger jump.


----------



## Michgelsen

What's all this praise for the mids of the Lambda Signature about? Compared to the HE60 it's nothing really.

 Doing side by side comparisons, I always have the feeling that something is missing in the mids of the Signature. Even after very long uses of the Signature (weeks of Signature and no HE60) this feeling stays, and putting on the HE60 always feels and sounds like a revelation. In my opinion, the HE60 is the better sounding headphone, both in the (smoother) highs and the mids. On the other hand, the amount of bass of the Signature is just right for my tastes, so there it wins. A little bit less maybe couldn't hurt.


----------



## spritzer

I do agree that the midrange on the HE60 is better but at 3 times the price, it should be.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Well, unfortunately, I have never owned nor tried the HE60. If funds allow, I'd actually love to buy/try one just for the heck of it. My praise for the Lambda Signature mids was *in comparison with the RS1* and also to make things clear, the Lambda Sigs comment was when driven by the 717.

 I also want to clarify that when I say the mids of the L. Signature is great, I don't mean that they are in-your-face kinda mids. They are there, but they don't force you take notice. I think the lower minds are not as prominent as the higher minds on the Lambda Signature. The slightly brighter nature of the lambda Sigs might also take away a little from noticing the mids too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When moving from T1 to 717, the thing I noticed is the bass became less fuzzy and impact was a little more. I can very well see someone perceiving the reduction in bass fuzziness as reduction in bass quantity. _*shrugs* _Details definately increased, but the drawback is the sound is not as fuzzy/smooth and relaxing as being driven by the T1 and that can be a problem for those whole like a smoother sound. Although I prefer the 717, I could live with the T1 if I had to. 

 Anyway, I find the Lambda Sig to be a nice all rounder. Some people might think the sound is a little too aggressive or has too much excitement or sense of urgency to it, but that's the way I like it. If you want minds, try the W11jpn, I owned that sometime back... and oooooh smoooov mids, mids, and MOAR mids... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The mids of the HE60 may be awesome, but most guys here say they lack bass? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Oh... and the price of the HE60... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a question for you though *Michgelsen*, since you own both the HE60 and Lambda Sigs, which do you find more fun to listen to and which do you reach for most often? A simple comparison/compare contrast of the headphones would be great. I ask because I want to get a rough idea of how they stack up to each other. You see, because back when I had the O2mk1 side by side with the Lambda Sigs, I could appreciate the fact that the O2mk1 was better from a technical standpoint but somehow I kept using the Lambda more. Is this the case with your He60 and L.Sig too? Thanks for your input *Michgelsen*.


----------



## Currawong

wp: I get where you're coming from. I'm in the same situation. The LNS are damn fun. The mids aren't as smooth as would be ideal, but it's a small thing. What pushed it over the edge for me into deciding to keep the O2s is getting a DAC that is ultra-detailed and the tube dampers pushing the 007t to new levels.


----------



## Dexon

I've replaced the fuse in my srm252 and it works like a charm
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 After some 40 hours of burning in I took a listen. 

 I would say 2050a is more transparent with both of my sources (Sony XA20ES and stock Zhaolu 2.5c) than the Zero/HD600 set I use in office. Stax textures are more refined and bit more detailed. It is indeed very fast sound, although, it's hard to appreciate it fully as the transients are so soft that I'm not sure will I be able to accustomize to this issue ever. At this stage is very annoying. Whole sound is nicely balanced with just right amount of bass and it's very easy on the ear but I really miss the drama of Senns when it comes to large dynamic swings and orchestral music. Mids are sometimes beautiful but sometimes they obviously lack structure and body itself is too thin compared to HD600. 

 Stax's speed and lightness of notes are fun and easy to listen but from this point I would say HD600 has more accurate timbre, especially with simpler material. For instance, piano sounds livelier and more precise on stax but lacks weight and focus on it and thus seem somehow unreal. With fortepiano situation is less obvious and sound is very good indeed. What is night and day difference between the two is how they handle quiet passages. There is something very distinguished with estats when it comes to microdynamics and subtle shifts down there. What should be quiet is really quiet. I'm surely not comfortable with English enough to describe it, but all those gentle violin solos and andantes are far more realistic with Stax.

 BTW, In my whole audiophile carrier I never had volume knob set higher than 11-12 a clock on any amp for comfortable listen. With srm252 I need to put it at least at 12 to get enough volume. Is that common with stax, where do you set your?


----------



## wrecked_porsche

@CW,

 Indeed. The Lambdas are for fun while the O2 is for serious listening. That's how I see it anyway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The DAC you got has been on my watch list ever since you mentioned it had some similarities to the Nakamichi (Dragon, wasn't it?) DAC you mentioned last time. Did Craig listen to your new DAC yet?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mids of the HE60 may be awesome, but most guys here say they lack bass? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, they don't lack bass, the bass is very nice. Its just that the Lambda Pro has some very strong bass in general to me and some recessed mids in comparison. The Sigs bass is still punchy, clear, and strong (just not as strong).


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question for you though *Michgelsen*, since you own both the HE60 and Lambda Sigs, which do you find more fun to listen to and which do you reach for most often? A simple comparison/compare contrast of the headphones would be great. I ask because I want to get a rough idea of how they stack up to each other. You see, because back when I had the O2mk1 side by side with the Lambda Sigs, I could appreciate the fact that the O2mk1 was better from a technical standpoint but somehow I kept using the Lambda more. Is this the case with your He60 and L.Sig too? Thanks for your input *Michgelsen*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Let me start by saying that both headphones are similar in presentation: fast, detailed, open and with a somewhat bright nature.

 The most important difference for me is that the HE60 sounds more real and thus more engaging. Especially voices touch me more when I'm using the HE60. It's the timbre that feels/sounds natural to me. Not only voices, but instruments too. Its PRaT is also better, probably due to the fast and tight bass. Overall I describe the HE60 as very fast, catchy, bouncy while at the same time very real, engaging and intimate.

 The Lambda Signature has a little bit different of a presentation of voices and instruments. In comparison it feels as if the Lambda Signature has a little dip somewhere in the midrange. Maybe it actually is the more neutral of the two and the HE60 has a boost, who knows. Furthermore, it sounds a bit 'hollow' in comparison. Voices are a bit farther away. I have no clue where this comes from, but that in combination with the dip in the midrange makes it the less engaging 'phone of the two, although it still does very well in that aspect. It's all relative.
 It does have more bass (but still quite precise and controlled) than the HE60, with the result that the music sounds fuller. For some genres this is very important. Blues for instance, is better represented by the Lambda Signature, because it needs a solid bassline. I never listen to jazz, but I suspect it's the same. For classical it can be a great thing as well, although the HE60 still wins here because of the better timbre of the wind and the strings.

 Both have a good soundstage, albeit different from each other. The HE60 has an airy, transparent quality to it, but the total soundstage of the Lambda Signature is larger and more convincing.
 Their highs are in both cases prominent. I think the HE60 has a greater emphasis in the highs that the Lambda Signature, but the Signature can sting more. This is probably what is generally referred to as the 'etch'. The HE60 can have this too, but higher up I think. Right now I'm at my parents' so I don't have my CDP nor my SRM-T1/Lambda Signature here, only the HEV70/HE60. I'm using the PC, with an M-Audio Delta 2496 and crappy wire. Interestingly, there is no sting in the highs whatsoever while the smoothness remains, and the bass seems somewhat fuller. That shows what a difference the source can make.

 Now, which one do I find more fun? The HE60, absolutely. It has more PRaT and a more engaging midrange, which does it for me. It sounds so divinely precise! The funny thing is, I actually think that a big part of this is the light, but fast and tight bass. At first you think you will miss some of the bass you're used to from the Lambda Signature, but you won't, you adapt quickly. For me, this does not work the other way around when it comes to the midrange. Conclusion: I use the HE60 way more, but the Lambda Signature is a great second/backup 'phone.

 You said something about one being better from a technical point of view. Well, I do feel that Staxen are more reliable for sure. Stax stuff feels solid and acts solid too. Both my HEV70 and my HE60 have been back to Sennheiser because of problems: the first time because the HEV70 developed a nasty hum and something was loose on the inside of the HE60. The second time (very recently) the HE60 had a slight channel imbalance that luckily was easily fixed (no new drivers or something necessary). Apparently something was loose again. The best part of the story is that everything was fixed under warranty, else it would have been pretty expensive. It also gave me a chance to listen to the Lambda Signature for a few weeks on its own.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

@*Michgelsen*, thank you for that comparison. I can totally understand where you're coming from now. 

 I listen mainly to chill out, jazz and blues with a healthy dose of bluegrass, Celtic, trance/progressive house/dance music, 80s synth pop(Alphaville, Modern Talking) as well as acoustic centric stuff such as Guns 'N Roses, Alejandro Escovedo and Lee Hazlewood.

 That's probably why I like the Lambda Signature soo much, IMO, its a match made in heaven for most of the music I listen to. It has a slight syrupy texture to it that sometimes either works for it or against it depending on song type. FWIW, I do feel that the Lambda Signature is not the best for my Classical collection. Not saying its horrible or anything like that, but just that its not the best I've heard for that genre. The k1000 does classical soo much better. 

 You said "the HE60 has an airy, transparent quality to it" and "the HE60 still wins here because of the better timbre of the wind and the strings". I can see why you think the HE60 is better, because when I listen to classical music, those are the exact attributes that I look for too. I need the headphones to be very quick on its feet/very fast, have tons of PRAT, and have that "airy, transparent quality to it" for me to enjoy a headphone with that genre. These are the very reasons why I like the K1000 for classical.

 Sometimes I feel that the slight "syrupy fullness" that the Lambda Sig has that I like soo much with my Chill out and Jazz collection is the exact same thing that holds me back from being blown away with it when I listen to classical music. For example, Beethoven's "Symphony No.7 Op.92 - II Allegretto" sounds nice enough on my Lambda Sig but is stunning on the K1000. Engaging. Especially apparent to me is the airiness and dynamic range. Then again, this airiness and PRAT of the K1000 works against it sometimes. So yeah, sources, cables, music genre... etc... the list goes on. Every headphone has its place. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you have any Jessie Baylin tracks? I'm listening to "Was I On Your Mind" on the Lambda Sigs.... its just simply wonderful.







 @*manaox2*, The Lambda Signature bass is more than enough for me, if the bass is any less on the HE60 it should still be enough. Textured, clean bass over quantity any day... well "most days" anyway.


----------



## Michgelsen

I don't have any Jessie Baylin tracks, but after youtubing a little, I can totally understand that it sounds gorgeous on the Lambda Signature. That headphone can let such music roll out so effortlessly and controlled. 'Syrupy fullness yet crispy' is a good description I think.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Yeah, and that's the kinda music I predominantly listen to. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You nailed it spot on, "syrupy fullness yet crispy" is what I'd call them too.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I ditched my O2mk1 after owning both headphone(O2mk1 and L.Sig) side by side._

 

What the..? And the Mafia didn't kick you out yet? Isn't there supposed to be a hierarchy? Didn't Spritzer set the O2Mk1 at the top and everything else follows?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Lambdas are for fun while the O2 is for serious listening._

 

Do you mean that I wasn't really having fun listening to Rihanna - Umbrella (Remixes) with the O2Mk2?

 Oh well, it doesn't matter anymore, I got sick of the song after play count 40+. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have any Jessie Baylin tracks?_

 

Damn, I checked my library and I saw Jessica Simpson followed by Jessy J. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't help it, I have bad taste in music.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@*manaox2*, The Lambda Signature bass is more than enough for me, if the bass is any less on the HE60 it should still be enough. Textured, clean bass over quantity any day... well "most days" anyway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

You act as if the two are mutually exclusive. I like the Sig's bass fine and wouldn't call it a fault, it is plenty for me to be happy with. The pro does have a little more bloated bass, but certainly not horrendous.


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@*Michgelsen*The k1000 does classical soo much better. 

 You said "the HE60 has an airy, transparent quality to it" and "the HE60 still wins here because of the better timbre of the wind and the strings". I can see why you think the HE60 is better, because when I listen to classical music, those are the exact attributes that I look for too._

 

For me, classical had better instrumental timbre and micro-texturing via HE60 over K1000, which is why I sold both my K1000's and kept HE60. Not that K1000 wasn't great or lacked its own charms; I kind of miss it, but heck, it was too much $$$ tied up in 'phones I rarely use...


----------



## wrecked_porsche

@*manaox2*, I should have made it clearer, my bad. The two are not mutually exclusive. Sorry if I gave you that impression. I was not saying the Signature's bass is horrible or boomy/bloated. I never said that they were a fault nor were they horrendous. Far from it. 

 I was just saying that I don't mind if there was added texture and definition in the bass region if it means I will have to sacrifice a little quantity in the process, that's all. I am saying the Signature is good enough for me and I'm plenty happy with the bass, there is enough awesomeness going on there that if I had to give up some of it I would still be happy. That is what I was trying to say. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Allow me to rephrase:

_Textured, clean bass over *BOOM BOOM BOOM* any day... well "most days" anyway._



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What the..? And the Mafia didn't kick you out yet? Isn't there supposed to be a hierarchy? Didn't Spritzer set the O2Mk1 at the top and everything else follows?_

 

Oh noes Baby E. far from that, the mafia approves instead. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its 2am now, I'm tired so I'll email you about it tomorrow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you mean that I wasn't really having fun listening to Rihanna - Umbrella (Remixes) with the O2Mk2?
 Oh well, it doesn't matter anymore, I got sick of the song after play count 40+. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nope. You were NOT having fun there. You were *trying*. You tried 40+ times. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Umbrella...ella ella ella... _*shudders*..._







  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, I checked my library and I saw Jessica Simpson followed by Jessy J. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't help it, I have bad taste in music. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Jessica Simpson ain't thaaaaat bad. I enjoy "Public Affair" just as much as you do.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you mean that I wasn't really having fun listening to Rihanna - Umbrella (Remixes) with the O2Mk2?

 Oh well, it doesn't matter anymore, I got sick of the song after play count 40+. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Damn, I checked my library and I saw Jessica Simpson followed by Jessy J. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't help it, I have bad taste in music. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh my. I laughed a lot.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What the..? And the Mafia didn't kick you out yet? Isn't there supposed to be a hierarchy? Didn't Spritzer set the O2Mk1 at the top and everything else follows?_

 

Everything else does follow but that doesn't mean it can't be fun too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh well, it doesn't matter anymore, I got sick of the song after play count 40+. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Funny, I heard about 30 seconds of that song once and threw up a bit...


----------



## AudioCats

that Lambda-pro/SRM1mK2 set on 3bay is currently at $750 and the auction is not over yet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 is that a push/pull model?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that Lambda-pro/SRM1mK2 set on 3bay is currently at $750 and the auction is not over yet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 is that a push/pull model?_

 

It's odd. I don't recall a recent Stax FOTM; the economy is down; new high-profile dynamic headphones are being released soon - yet Stax prices on eBay have been on the rise lately. Then again, if the seller's description is accurate, that set should be in excellent condition.


----------



## AudioCats

I take that as a sign of economy recovery!

 the SRM1mK2 is the "amp of the month" though (just in case you didn't realize that).


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have heard Lambda Pros, Lambda Sigs, and 303s out of the GES and I have enjoyed them all very much. I would think the 404LE would be a nice match._

 

Thanks. I'm trying to decide between the following (budget limited):

 Woo GES (w/ DACT & 12BZ7 Tube upgrade) + 404LE

 -or-

 O2 mk1 + 717

 Problem is I've heard the O2 with GES and I liked it. I have not listened to the 404 before but it sounds like they might be the right fit because of my music taste which of late has been bluegrass, folk, classic rock, Norah Jones and classical.

 I need some Stax therapy...


----------



## The Monkey

Wow, that's a pretty tough call. Let's get the easy part out of the way first: get the O2 mk1; you'll just end up there anyway. And while I love the Lambda, the O2 is in a different league--one that I don't expect the 404LE to approach. As for the amp, I think there are several here who would recommend the 717. However, I think the GES may be the way to go. My only real complaint about the GES is that I think it is just a bit underpowered for the O2 mk1. But it still gets it right, to my ears. Also, the GES will sound great with a pair of Lambda Pros should you decide to get one at a decent price.

 Finally, I would advise against the stepper. 24 steps just aren't enough.


----------



## catscratch

O2 Mk1 is _much_ better than the SR-404. I had the 404 for two years and eventually started hating it because of its massive upper midrange emphasis. It turned me off electrostatics in general for about a year, and it wasn't until the O2 Mk1 that I really got back into 'stats. So I wouldn't recommend the 404 unless you've heard it and you're fine with its particular coloration.

 In fact it traumatized me so much that I can't stand that coloration in other headphones, and really don't like the O2 Mk2 for that very reason.

 The 717 should be a better match for the O2 than the GES thanks to its higher output power, so I'd say go with that.

 You will want as good a source as you can get your hands on though, since the O2 is revealing on a completely different level.

 Not sure about the 404LE but it will have to do a lot to do away with that upper midrange peak.


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 717 should be a better match for the O2 than the GES thanks to its higher output power, so I'd say go with that._

 

or wait for the Woo WES. that amp should have plenty of power for the O2.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or wait for the Woo WES. that amp should have plenty of power for the O2._

 

I expect it to cost about 4x-5x the current going rate for a 717. But it should be a great amp regardless...


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_O2 Mk1 is much better than the SR-404. I had the 404 for two years and eventually started hating it because of its massive upper midrange emphasis. It turned me off electrostatics in general for about a year, and it wasn't until the O2 Mk1 that I really got back into 'stats. So I wouldn't recommend the 404 unless you've heard it and you're fine with its particular coloration.

 In fact it traumatized me so much that I can't stand that coloration in other headphones, and really don't like the O2 Mk2 for that very reason.

 The 717 should be a better match for the O2 than the GES thanks to its higher output power, so I'd say go with that.

 You will want as good a source as you can get your hands on though, since the O2 is revealing on a completely different level.

 Not sure about the 404LE but it will have to do a lot to do away with that upper midrange peak._

 


 I don't see myself picking up a new source. I would like to think my RWA Isabellina would be sufficient for the O2's

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or wait for the Woo WES. that amp should have plenty of power for the O2._

 

I would love to be able to pick up the WES however I'm thinking the price will be out of my reach.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, that's a pretty tough call. Let's get the easy part out of the way first: get the O2 mk1; you'll just end up there anyway. And while I love the Lambda, the O2 is in a different league--one that I don't expect the 404LE to approach. As for the amp, I think there are several here who would recommend the 717. However, I think the GES may be the way to go. My only real complaint about the GES is that I think it is just a bit underpowered for the O2 mk1. But it still gets it right, to my ears. Also, the GES will sound great with a pair of Lambda Pros should you decide to get one at a decent price.

 Finally, I would advise against the stepper. 24 steps just aren't enough._

 

I've been leaning toward the O2's. That way I would get the cans first and work on the amp later. 

 Good point on the 24 steps.


----------



## vcoheda

i'm saving up for one, or a BHSE. not sure which yet.


----------



## fraseyboy

$750? JESUS!

 I payed $200 for the Lambda Pro's and I don't expect to pay anything more than another $200 for the SRM-1/MK2. I hope there isn't a sudden price rise!


 Someone on Trademe (a local but very popular auction site) is wanting $305 for an SR-Gamma and SRD-7. Cheap?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone on Trademe (a local but very popular auction site) is wanting $305 for an SR-Gamma and SRD-7. Cheap?_

 

Not to me, not excessive, but you really want pro bias for the L Pro and don't need a gamma.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to me, not excessive, but you really want pro bias for the L Pro and don't need a gamma._

 

I forgot to mention that it is Pro bias. Also comes with original boxes and manual and looks to be in very good condition. I'm not considering buying it since I'm clean out and I want an SRM-1 anyway, but it seemed interesting. Gamma's don't seem to pop up that much.

 The Lambda Pro's arrived today as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I had a chance to look them over and try them on for a bit (very comfy!) before they were whisked away 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I noticed that there was no foam behind or in front of the drivers. Does this matter? Will it make much of a difference to the sound?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me start by saying that both headphones are similar in presentation: fast, detailed, open and with a somewhat bright nature.

 The most important difference for me is that the HE60 sounds more real and thus more engaging. Especially voices touch me more when I'm using the HE60. It's the timbre that feels/sounds natural to me. Not only voices, but instruments too. Its PRaT is also better, probably due to the fast and tight bass. Overall I describe the HE60 as very fast, catchy, bouncy while at the same time very real, engaging and intimate.

 The Lambda Signature has a little bit different of a presentation of voices and instruments. In comparison it feels as if the Lambda Signature has a little dip somewhere in the midrange. Maybe it actually is the more neutral of the two and the HE60 has a boost, who knows. Furthermore, it sounds a bit 'hollow' in comparison. Voices are a bit farther away. I have no clue where this comes from, but that in combination with the dip in the midrange makes it the less engaging 'phone of the two, although it still does very well in that aspect. It's all relative.
 It does have more bass (but still quite precise and controlled) than the HE60, with the result that the music sounds fuller. For some genres this is very important. Blues for instance, is better represented by the Lambda Signature, because it needs a solid bassline. I never listen to jazz, but I suspect it's the same. For classical it can be a great thing as well, although the HE60 still wins here because of the better timbre of the wind and the strings.

 Both have a good soundstage, albeit different from each other. The HE60 has an airy, transparent quality to it, but the total soundstage of the Lambda Signature is larger and more convincing.
 Their highs are in both cases prominent. I think the HE60 has a greater emphasis in the highs that the Lambda Signature, but the Signature can sting more. This is probably what is generally referred to as the 'etch'. The HE60 can have this too, but higher up I think. Right now I'm at my parents' so I don't have my CDP nor my SRM-T1/Lambda Signature here, only the HEV70/HE60. I'm using the PC, with an M-Audio Delta 2496 and crappy wire. Interestingly, there is no sting in the highs whatsoever while the smoothness remains, and the bass seems somewhat fuller. That shows what a difference the source can make.

 Now, which one do I find more fun? The HE60, absolutely. It has more PRaT and a more engaging midrange, which does it for me. It sounds so divinely precise! The funny thing is, I actually think that a big part of this is the light, but fast and tight bass. At first you think you will miss some of the bass you're used to from the Lambda Signature, but you won't, you adapt quickly. For me, this does not work the other way around when it comes to the midrange. Conclusion: I use the HE60 way more, but the Lambda Signature is a great second/backup 'phone.

 You said something about one being better from a technical point of view. Well, I do feel that Staxen are more reliable for sure. Stax stuff feels solid and acts solid too. Both my HEV70 and my HE60 have been back to Sennheiser because of problems: the first time because the HEV70 developed a nasty hum and something was loose on the inside of the HE60. The second time (very recently) the HE60 had a slight channel imbalance that luckily was easily fixed (no new drivers or something necessary). Apparently something was loose again. The best part of the story is that everything was fixed under warranty, else it would have been pretty expensive. It also gave me a chance to listen to the Lambda Signature for a few weeks on its own._

 

Agreed on most areas of your comparison, except I think the HE60 have a more believable soundstage - occasionally the sound would seem to come from the drivers with the Lambda SIgnature, but never hear that with the HE60. The Lambda Signature's mids were not present enough, and the "etch" was worse than with my SR-Lambda, so I sold the Sigs because I was using the HE60 a lot more. Eventually I sold the ESP950 because they were being neglected too. This is with me using them all on a Woo GES. I don't even have the HEV70 hooked up anymore. I did spend close to $500 having my drivers replaced, and at the same time a new wallwart for the HEV70 and new earpads and headband pads, because it was just last summer and the warrantee is expired. I rotate through the HE60, O2 and Jade depending on my mood, and feel like I need to keep all three. So most of my dynamic headphones are neglected now except for my Westone ES3X custom IEM and K1000.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that Lambda-pro/SRM1mK2 set on 3bay is currently at $750 and the auction is not over yet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 is that a push/pull model?_

 

Aren't they all?

 The new Stax prices aren't dropping and the better old Staxen (actually pretty much all of them) are in consequence also not going down. Some models such as the SRM1Mk2 amp, Sigma and Lambda Signature phones are hot items and much in demand. Since Stax doesn't make any kind of Sigma or transformer anymore, these are getting pretty rare and starting to get museum prices. I expect prices to keep going up, at least for working units.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$750? JESUS!

 I payed $200 for the Lambda Pro's and I don't expect to pay anything more than another $200 for the SRM-1/MK2. I hope there isn't a sudden price rise!


 Someone on Trademe (a local but very popular auction site) is wanting $305 for an SR-Gamma and SRD-7. Cheap?_

 

Good luck getting the SRM1Mk2 for US$200. You might get the older version which alas doesn't have a pro output, just 2 low bias outputs. Most of these model amps have a low bias and pro outlet. The last made just had 2 pro outs. As I noted earlier you might get a SRDX type amp for this price and just possibly a pro SRD-7 although these, like the Sigmas are pretty scarce. you also sometimes find the small SRM252 and its earlier versions SRMx and the like. These have pro output but were usually sold with a headphone.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did spend close to $500 having my drivers replaced, and at the same time a new wallwart for the HEV70 and new earpads and headband pads, *because it was just last summer and the warrantee is expired*._

 

Can you explain that a bit better? Was something wrong with your drivers?

 When I got my set, an extra set of earpads was included, but I haven't used it yet because they replaced them at Sennheiser the first time I sent the set in, free of charge. This has been over a year ago and the pads are still in perfect shape, as is the headband, that has never been replaced yet. My HE60 gets very much use, so the flaking issues are not as bad as I thought they would be.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_O2 Mk1 is much better than the SR-404. I had the 404 for two years and eventually started hating it because of its massive upper midrange emphasis. It turned me off electrostatics in general for about a year, and it wasn't until the O2 Mk1 that I really got back into 'stats. So I wouldn't recommend the 404 unless you've heard it and you're fine with its particular coloration.

 In fact it traumatized me so much that I can't stand that coloration in other headphones, and really don't like the O2 Mk2 for that very reason.

 The 717 should be a better match for the O2 than the GES thanks to its higher output power, so I'd say go with that.

 You will want as good a source as you can get your hands on though, since the O2 is revealing on a completely different level.

 Not sure about the 404LE but it will have to do a lot to do away with that upper midrange peak._

 

I completely agree! The 717 is hard to beat on the O2mk1. You would have to spend big money to better it.


----------



## spritzer

The 717 is indeed the budget holy grail and many of the far more expensive amps have far worse specs. Right now I'm comparing it against this:





 It's my take on the Egmont circuit with much better tubes for the job (2*ECC99's and 4*6S4A's) and the old KGSS power supply design running at +/-350v (compared to the voltage doubler in the Rudistor designs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). In short, the 717 does everything better (the midrange has a real presence with the SR-007, bass is layered and controlled plus the top extended and grain free) but the Egmont was cheaper to build then what the 717 costs used. I'm going to add some feedback to the circuit so we'll see if that brings them closer together.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone on Trademe (a local but very popular auction site) is wanting $305 for an SR-Gamma and SRD-7. Cheap?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I forgot to mention that it is Pro bias. Also comes with original boxes and manual and looks to be in very good condition. I'm not considering buying it since I'm clean out and I want an SRM-1 anyway, but it seemed interesting. Gamma's don't seem to pop up that much._

 

You definitely should pick it up, as long as its the SR-Gamma Pro and SRD-7 Pro (or MK2).
 Cause the SRD-7 Pro alone usually sell for the same as this system...


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In short, the 717 does everything better (the midrange has a real presence with the SR-007, bass is layered and controlled plus the top extended and grain free)_

 

Heh, maybe that's why I feel that the mid range is more than decent on the Lambda Sigs. When its driven by the 717, there's no mid range suckout on my end for sure. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Its really a wonderful amp. I _*heart*_ the 717.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I am very much looking forward to the diy electrostat amp under testing to fill in the need for a reasonable, available amp. my normal bias lambda's would like some more options.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* 
I did spend close to $500 having my drivers replaced, and at the same time a new wallwart for the HEV70 and new earpads and headband pads, because it was just last summer and the warrantee is expired.Can you explain that a bit better? Was something wrong with your drivers?

 When I got my set, an extra set of earpads was included, but I haven't used it yet because they replaced them at Sennheiser the first time I sent the set in, free of charge. This has been over a year ago and the pads are still in perfect shape, as is the headband, that has never been replaced yet. My HE60 gets very much use, so the flaking issues are not as bad as I thought they would be.

 

_

 

When the HE60 arrived to me (used after a cash+trade deal) the right driver would take hours to charge up before the channel imbalance would go away, and repeated charge/discharge cycles did not rectify the situation. And, the HEV70 would not power up with the 220v wallwart via a 110-220 transformer adapter. 

 So, Sennheiser had me send both in to them and found a bad driver and a bad wallwart. The HE60 was terminated with a stax plug by Rudistor and there was a "stax to senn" adapter with the HEV70 so I could listen to the re-terminated HE60 and Stax headphones with it. They replaced the drivers with a matched pair, and I bought a new wallwart. I already had a spare set of new pads, but they threw in an new installed set of pads for free before sending them back to me. I think the total was like $460 for everything, plus shipping on my FedEx account to them and back. The seller reimbursed me $400 which I greatly appreciated.


----------



## chi2

Dear fellow Staxians,

 I've stumbled over a completely unexpected and rather strange problem with my SR-4070s (recently bought used but in v. good condition). When wearing them and listening to music, as soon as I touch something connected to electric ground (e.g. the case of an amplifier) the sound level decreases by maybe 6 to 9 dB. No other of my Stax phones shows such a behavior. Neither does my HE60. Does touching ground somehow increase the capacitance or load of the phones making them harder to drive? Or could there be a bridge between the stators and the pads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




? Do you 4070 owners experience the same behavior with your phones? Any ideas about the cause/s?

 Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

That's not something that has ever happened to me on any of my electrostatic headphones. You do loose volume on the Lambda drivers when the membrane is pushed around so that could account for the drop in volume.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's not something that has ever happened to me on any of my electrostatic headphones. You do loose volume on the Lambda drivers when the membrane is pushed around so that could account for the drop in volume._

 

Sorry, not sure if I got you right. What do you mean with "pushing around": exerting pressure, shaking them or simply moving them around?


----------



## mark_h

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, not sure if I got you right. What do you mean with "pushing around": exerting pressure, shaking them or simply moving them around?_

 

Could it be that you are electro man the super hero, you just don't know it?


----------



## chi2

Never thought about it, but yes, could be.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, not sure if I got you right. What do you mean with "pushing around": exerting pressure, shaking them or simply moving them around?_

 

Exerting pressure in any way so that the diaphragm is pushed or pulled towards the stators. Try pushing the earpieces towards the head and see if the effect is similar.


----------



## Lil' Knight

My 007t is coming from Japan. In case I can't change the voltage, which good voltage converter should I get?
 I'm looking at THIS but not sure which one will be fine.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear fellow Staxians,

 I've stumbled over a completely unexpected and rather strange problem with my SR-4070s (recently bought used but in v. good condition). When wearing them and listening to music, as soon as I touch something connected to electric ground (e.g. the case of an amplifier) the sound level decreases by maybe 6 to 9 dB. No other of my Stax phones shows such a behavior. Neither does my HE60. Does touching ground somehow increase the capacitance or load of the phones making them harder to drive? Or could there be a bridge between the stators and the pads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





? Do you 4070 owners experience the same behavior with your phones? Any ideas about the cause/s?

 Thanks!_

 


 I have had something like this happen when I listen with wet hair, eg. just out of the shower. I suspect the dampness causes some loss of charge in the stators when you ground your body. When your hair is properly dry, the stators are better insulated.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had something like this happen when I listen with wet hair, eg. just out of the shower. I suspect the dampness causes some loss of charge in the stators when you ground your body. When your hair is properly dry, the stators are better insulated._

 

Which type of Stax phone was it that you have experienced this? I've never had it happen to me with Lambdas, Sigmas and O2s.


----------



## spritzer

One should never use electrostatic headphones with damp hair. Stax has warned about this in every users manual though they really shouldn't have to...


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One should never use electrostatic headphones with damp hair. Stax has warned about this in every users manual though they really shouldn't have to..._

 

May I ask why? I can imagine some possibilities but I dont really know.

 Another similar question: can you get a shock if you ground yourself while wearing stax headphones, like, for example, touching a water faucer? (I did it once about 25 years ago with dynamic headphones --or were they the Superex? -- and a long, long extension cord... a light, faint current from ear to ear).

 I find 500 volts kind of spooky.


----------



## spritzer

High voltage and highly conductive water is never a good mix. It's about as smart to wear ESP's with wet hair as it is trying to lick the drivers. Also if you have damp hair/skin it can increase the humidity inside the drivers and makes them prone to damage. The whole electrostatic principle is dependent on the atmosphere acting as an insulator, which it is, but humidity is a large factor. 

 The headphones will not have any effect on you since they are well insulated. There is no electrical current which goes into the head if the headphones are fully functional. Volts are nothing to be scared off. They are nothing more then potential, it's the current that kills you. Think of electricity as water, a raindrop falls from a few hundred meters but you hardly feel it as the there is so little water in the drop. Now try being hit with a ton of water from the same altitude. See my point?


----------



## dickbianchi

thanks


----------



## rsbrsvp

I have read so much in these pages of how incredible the 717 is as an amp for the o2mk1.

 Is the KGBH or BHSE really sonically superior or is it chasing after expensive equipment that wont outdue a used 717 by much if at all?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which type of Stax phone was it that you have experienced this? I've never had it happen to me with Lambdas, Sigmas and O2s._

 

I have noticed it mostly with Lambdas and Koss 950's. I couldn't figure out why one set-up was acting this way and finally figured that it came about after I had showered or had been swimming (most nights I do one, the other or both) and hadn't fully dried my hair. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One should never use electrostatic headphones with damp hair. Stax has warned about this in every users manual though they really shouldn't have to..._

 

I do make more efforts to get fully dried out now and haven't noticed this effect for some time.


----------



## goober-george

Can someone recommend the best stax set-up bang for buck wise with a $350 budget? Sorry if it is inappropriate to ask in this thread.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have read so much in these pages of how incredible the 717 is as an amp for the o2mk1.

 Is the KGBH or BHSE really sonically superior or is it chasing after expensive equipment that wont outdue a used 717 by much if at all?_

 

The BH is a far better amp then the 717, so much so that I didn't think much of the 717 for years since I had compared it to the BH at the time. The BH hasn't got much of a sound of it's own while it's easy to detect what the 717 is doing to the sound it outputs. It's also built on a shoestring budget so no regulated PSU and other things that would make it better. Now that I've used it for almost a year as my main amp it has earned my respect and admiration since it has no peers in or around this price level. It also has the power and clarity to outperform most of the amp designs out there (some of which would be far more expensive) and is certainly one of the best designs Stax has come up with.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone recommend the best stax set-up bang for buck wise with a $350 budget? Sorry if it is inappropriate to ask in this thread._

 

Probably an SR-Lambda and SRD-7.
 The price of vintage Stax'en vary quite a bit though, so a bit of luck may be needed.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone recommend the best stax set-up bang for buck wise with a $350 budget? Sorry if it is inappropriate to ask in this thread._

 

saw some sr-lambda deals on ebay last night. still days to go, but might be worth a watch.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_saw some sr-lambda deals on ebay last night. still days to go, but might be worth a watch._

 

Dude, I WAS watching them.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dude, I WAS watching them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Dude, My BAD!!! crap, now the mafia, that doesnt exist, will be fitting me for some cement shoes. damn, and I was really enjoying my lambdas.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone recommend the best stax set-up bang for buck wise with a $350 budget? Sorry if it is inappropriate to ask in this thread._

 

Try the SR001Mk2 portable unit with both phone and amp coming in for as little as $250.00. - $300.00. This is a high bias, current model which is also portable. Even if you get the best Stax phones and amp, you will probably still keep this little set-up for when you travel or go outside. For home use you can get a basic 4.5 volt dc transformer. This will give it a bit more oomph.

 The same phone with a different plug and a small Stax amp is $500.00 and isn't appreciably better than the portable unit.

 Otherwise you are probably limited to old, low bias units which are more or less obsolete.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try the SR001Mk2 portable unit with both phone and amp coming in for as little as $250.00. - $300.00. This is a high bias, current model which is also portable. Even if you get the best Stax phones and amp, you will probably still keep this little set-up for when you travel or go outside. For home use you can get a basic 4.5 volt dc transformer. This will give it a bit more oomph.

 The same phone with a different plug and a small Stax amp is $500.00 and isn't appreciably better than the portable unit.

 Otherwise you are probably limited to old, low bias units which are more or less obsolete._

 

The SR-003 with an amp like the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is appreciably better than the stock SR-001 Mk2. Is the amp with the SR-005 desktop setup that cheap that it doesn't clearly beat the portable version? 

 I am not knocking the portable, as I really like mine. But at first the mids on my SR-001 Mk2 were too forward and the bass and treble was too rolled off. But after 400-500 hours of burn-in I was perfectly happy with the SR-001 Mk2, and even Audiocats was surprised at how good it sounded for a stock unit. He looked inside and couldn't find anything special to make it sound that good, but it was strange that it sounded so "FM Radio" until 400-500 hours of use. Even then it could not match the SR-003 on an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. So, if someone gets an SR-001 Mk2 and doesn't like it at first, he may have to run it for a month straight before it sounds right (crazy, I know).


----------



## goober-george

So the Stax SR-001 Mk2 setup is comparable to the Stax Lambda Pro or are they in two different leagues? I'm just asking cause I don't ever plan to go in the four digit range of high end stax headphones or even dynamics for that matter.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Stax SR-001 Mk2 setup is comparable to the Stax Lambda Pro or are they in two different leagues? I'm just asking cause I don't ever plan to go in the four digit range of high end stax headphones or even dynamics for that matter._

 

Dunno, but any kind of energizer or adapter to drive Lambda pros will costs about $200 or more these days before the headphones which also run about $250. Still seems like a great deal if you can grab it at $650 or less.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-003 with an amp like the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is appreciably better than the stock SR-001 Mk2...But after 400-500 hours of burn-in I was perfectly happy with the SR-001 Mk2, and even Audiocats was surprised at how good it sounded for a stock unit...So, if someone gets an SR-001 Mk2 and doesn't like it at first, he may have to run it for a month straight before it sounds right (crazy, I know)._

 

And, of course, later, you can always consider improving the stock SR-001 Mk2 - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...thread-277049/


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-003 with an amp like the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro is appreciably better than the stock SR-001 Mk2. Is the amp with the SR-005 desktop setup that cheap that it doesn't clearly beat the portable version? 

 I am not knocking the portable, as I really like mine. But at first the mids on my SR-001 Mk2 were too forward and the bass and treble was too rolled off. But after 400-500 hours of burn-in I was perfectly happy with the SR-001 Mk2, and even Audiocats was surprised at how good it sounded for a stock unit. He looked inside and couldn't find anything special to make it sound that good, but it was strange that it sounded so "FM Radio" until 400-500 hours of use. Even then it could not match the SR-003 on an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. So, if someone gets an SR-001 Mk2 and doesn't like it at first, he may have to run it for a month straight before it sounds right (crazy, I know)._

 

I have the SR001Mk2, 2 SR003's, 404, Lambda Nova, Sigma, Sigma Pro, Sigma/404 and 007A. For Stax amps I run 2 SRM3's an SRM1Mk2, a 717 and and a SRDP pro. 

 I have tried the 003's with all of the big amps and frankly I just don't see a big improvement over the SR001Mk2 portable amp. Possibly my silver interconnect on the portable amp makes a difference. (That cost me $25.00 from a Headfi seller.) A better CD player helps however. 

 The small 001/003 phones are very good per se but in my opinion don't "scale up" much with a better amp. In part I think that is because they are well designed for use with small amps such as the portable amp and don't need much more juice, unlike virtually all the other Stax phones which can always use a better amp. In fact they also run quite well on a low bias outlet, something I don't find with other pro phones.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Stax SR-001 Mk2 setup is comparable to the Stax Lambda Pro or are they in two different leagues? I'm just asking cause I don't ever plan to go in the four digit range of high end stax headphones or even dynamics for that matter._

 

I think the Lambdas are unquestionably better and by a fair margin. I would rather have a MS-1 or MS-2i over the SR-003.


----------



## AudioCats

maybe not the SRM1/mk2 and srd7mk2, but the baby stax sounds very differently between a stock SRM001 amp and T1s/w amp. 

 A mid-level modded SRM001 using moderate boutique caps (such as in the SuperFatCat mod ) can give similar performence as the SRM1mk2, I actually like the SFC++ better than the SRM1MK2 (am never fond of the SRM1mk2's harshness, with any phones). However that is still well below the T1 SQ. Try the baby stax with a T1 and you _will_ like it.




 .


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Lambdas are unquestionably better and by a fair margin. I would rather have a MS-1 or MS-2i over the SR-003._

 

what was driving the 003? and what was driving the MS-1?





 .


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_maybe not the SRM1/mk2 and srd7mk2, but the baby stax sounds very differently between a stock SRM001 amp and T1s/w amp. 

 A mid-level modded SRM001 using moderate boutique caps (such as in the SuperFatCat mod ) can give similar performence as the SRM1mk2, I actually like the SFC++ better than the SRM1MK2 (am never fond of the SRM1mk2's harshness, with any phones). However that is still well below the T1 SQ. Try the baby stax with a T1 and you will like it.




 ._

 

No need, I use mine with a Woo GES.


----------



## plaidplatypus

HeadphoneAddict's Woo GES. I might just not like the in-ear sound or comfort. I also thought it was a bit too bassy. If I get to listen to the SR-003 again I'll have to try it with a different amp or adaptor/speaker amp. I'll give it a second chance, miracles happen.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict's Woo GES. I might just not like the in-ear sound or comfort. I also thought it was a bit too bassy. If I get to listen to the SR-003 again I'll have to try it with a different amp or adaptor/speaker amp. I'll give it a second chance, miracles happen._

 

It's better with the PS Audio Digital Link III DAC now. The comfort is harder to fix.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict's Woo GES. I might just not like the in-ear sound or comfort. I also thought it was a bit too bassy. If I get to listen to the SR-003 again I'll have to try it with a different amp or adaptor/speaker amp. I'll give it a second chance, miracles happen._

 

If they were too bassy then the fit was off.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they were too bassy then the fit was off._

 

Not necessarilly IMHO. The Woo responds well to changes in tubes. I would argue that you could probably find the best SQ for the 001s on a Woo by trying some different tubes to those that might suit your other Stax Headphones (oops...Earspeakers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).


----------



## spritzer

That could be it but if the amp was setup for SR-007's then the phones should have a pretty lean bass, unless Larry is a basshead.


----------



## condor

Today should have been the day I wanted to poste here "If there WOULD BE a Stax Mafia, I'd like to join it." 

 But today I got a letter from a terrorist organization with a name "German Customs" who have taken my SRM1 MK2 PP hostage!
 They won't release it before Monday and they kidnappers want around 40-50€ ransom!

 So right now I can only stroke my SR-404 and start to cry and tell it, that I can use it, soon :/


----------



## krmathis

^ So close, but still so far away! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 .veryevil:
 Good things come to those who wait though...


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ So close, but still so far away! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .veryevil:
 Good things come to those who wait though..._

 

That is SO unfair :/


----------



## Lil' Knight

The Mafia is in da house but still no amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hate waiting.


----------



## Yikes

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So right now I can only stroke my SR-404 and start to cry and tell it, that I can use it, soon :/_

 

So, .... SR-404, that's what you kids are calling it today? In my day we called it something different.


----------



## SR-71Panorama

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mafia is in da house but still no amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hate waiting._

 

My OIImk1's been ampless for months

 **puffs chest**


----------



## Lil' Knight

*hug*


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mafia is in da house but still no amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hate waiting._

 

Same here.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yikes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, .... SR-404, that's what you kids are calling it today? In my day we called it something different. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Haha


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not necessarilly IMHO. The Woo responds well to changes in tubes. I would argue that you could probably find the best SQ for the 001s on a Woo by trying some different tubes to those that might suit your other Stax Headphones (oops...Earspeakers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )._

 

Yeah, the 12BZ7 from Woo were a little darker and bassy and that is what Plaid heard - and I now have a fantastic set of early 60's Wurlitzer 12AX7 that sound as good as my NOS Telefunkens and reissue cryo'd Mullards.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goober-george* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Stax SR-001 Mk2 setup is comparable to the Stax Lambda Pro or are they in two different leagues? I'm just asking cause I don't ever plan to go in the four digit range of high end stax headphones or even dynamics for that matter._

 

Given the best amp and a high quality source most lambdas will outperform the Stax poratble or the SR003 but you are in different leagues regarding cost by factors of 5 or 10 . The Lambdas are a full-range "high-fi" headphone which will sound very good with very good material but may make poorer material sound worse.The various lambda pros have some degree of treble emphasis which can make some material, such as rock/pop recorded with treble emphasis (which many seem to have) almost unlistenable.

 By comparison, the 001 and 003 will sound more listenable over a wider range of music. The 001/003 roll off the treble in a euphonic fashion. I would compare their sound to the Sigmas, some have compared their tonal coloration to the 007. 

 I think they benefit from silver interconnects. When I put mine on I was struck by a major increase in the fullness of the sound as well as the clarity of the treble.

 I maintain the Stax portable is a major bargain in an electrostatic, even compared to the 003/amp unit which uses the same phone and a somewhat larger amp.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, the 12BZ7 from Woo were a little darker and bassy and that is what Plaid heard - and I now have a fantastic set of early 60's Wurlitzer 12AX7 that sound as good as my NOS Telefunkens and reissue cryo'd Mullards._

 

Congrats. Thought it might have been 12BZ7. Envious you have so many great tubes to choose from. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That could be it but if the amp was setup for SR-007's then the phones should have a pretty lean bass, unless Larry is a basshead._

 

You can imagine how the SR-007s would sound with 12BZ7s to someone who feels they make the SR-001s bassy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 001/003 roll off the treble in a euphonic fashion...I think they benefit from silver interconnects. When I put mine on I was struck by a major increase in the fullness of the sound as well as the clarity of the treble...I maintain the Stax portable is a major bargain in an electrostatic..._

 

Agreed on all counts. Silver ICs, especially the fine guage ones, can provide an excellent synergy, especially with tube amps IMHO. Plus, as previously indicated, the portable amp can be modded quite successfully to further enhance SQ.


----------



## catscratch

I do have to disagree with Edstrelow with regards to 003 scalability and the quality of the stock 001 amp. I think the 001 amp is rubbish, and even switching out to the 313, which is not a fantastic amp in its own right, will give significant results. I don't know physics and I don't know amp design so I can't comment at all on the 001 amp's circuit, but I can comment on the sound... and its transparency, dynamic range, instrument separation, and overall clarity, not to mention performance at the frequency extremes, are all lacking.

 I had several modded 001 units and they all sounded significantly better, some of them better than 003/313 but mostly within the ballpark. I tried the 003 with the 007t and didn't like it very much, then tried it with the SRD-7 Pro/Dared VP-20 and thought it was fantastic and punchy as hell, and I've yet to try it with the 717. The 003 does, I think, scale with amps, and it does scale with sources, and in many ways I prefer its sound over the Lambda-style phones that I heard, i.e. 303 and 404. The 404 messes up the mids something fierce and I could never live with that coloration. The 003, while being less technically capable than the 404, commits sins of omission rather than sins of addition/coloration and is far more listenable - and IMO also far more accurate because it's missing the 404's colorations. Its midrange tone is essentially correct and similar to the 007 (Mk1).

 But of course, that's just my .02 and doesn't mean that I'm right.

 As far as the 717 goes in general, there was some talk of how good it is compared to higher-priced 'stat amps and I really cannot answer that. But I can rant a bit about the 717 and what I like about it in particular.

 1) tonality - a lot of solid state amps fail at midrange tonality and sound too cold and too analytical. The 717 pretty much nails tonality and instruments have warmth, richness, and a very lifelike tone.
 2) detail - this isn't the most transparent amp in the universe but it certainly does sound pretty detailed, and it doesn't hype up the highs and make everything hyperdetailed. It's detailed but in a natural way.
 3) bass control - the 717 certainly has the output power, and its bass control with the 007 is considerably better than the Stax transformer box or any lesser amps. Bass has tightness, slam, and definition.

 In general the 717 sounds clear, natural, layered, and controlled. It does have a somewhat polite and laid-back sound IMO, and it certainly could use being a bit more vivid and dynamic. So if you pair the 717/O2 combo with a laid-back, anemic source you will get a sound that's far too polite. Also, the 717 does have a slightly diffuse quality to its soundstage which on one hand makes it sound very airy, but on the other hand makes the imaging a little less sharp. It also begins to compress a bit at higher volumes and music starts to lose dynamic range and separation, but this is nowhere near as pronounced as it is with a less powerful amp.

 Still, all in all, a very capable amp, and simply a ridiculous bargain at $800-900 or whatever it goes for these days. I like tubes mainly but the 717 does have a surprisingly strong tube character and I don't miss tubes in my right all that much... well, maybe a little bit


----------



## edstrelow

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123]Some interesting phones currently on ebay.


 Looks like a Sigma, Sigma Pro (the black one, which the seller doesn't identify as such) a SR5 and what the seller calls an Alpha but which looks like a Lambda, possibly a Signature or 404/Signature. 

 The seller seems to think the SRM T1 amp is the prize, but I think the money is in the phones. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do have to disagree with Edstrelow with regards to 003 scalability and the quality of the stock 001 amp. I think the 001 amp is rubbish, :_

 

So basically you are claiming your mods turned a piece of rubbish into a class act?

 I think it is very misleading to call the basic portable amp rubbish. I have seen lots of satisfied comments about this set-up in these forums.

 The 001/003 works well as what it is, an efficient unit for use with a small /portableamp. I have no hestitation recommending it as an entry level system or portable system. It may sound somewhat better with mods or a bigger amp but it doesn't scale up like the lambdas do and I can't see anyone buying a big amp for the sole purpose of running the 003 better.

 Not to be totally disagreeable, I do agree about the merits of the 717. So why are the subsequent Stax transistor amps not as well-regarded? What did Stax do to compromise their sound?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some interesting phones currently on ebay.

Stax SRM T1 Tube Headphone Amp and 2-Adaptors - eBay (item 290313432191 end time May-02-09 23:22:35 PDT)_

 

Yes, an excellent and interesting combination of amps and phones - provided they all are working well of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (BTW, I fixed up the typo in the original link - the above should now work).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So basically you are claiming your mods turned a piece of rubbish into a class act?

 I think it is very misleading to call the basic portable amp rubbish. I have seen lots of satisfied comments about this set-up in these forums._

 

O.k., enough already.

 Anybody who has looked at the history of the portable amp Stax provided with its 001 Mk2 would be aware that there are in fact two different opamps used throughout the release.

 One opamp, after burn in, sounds more than decent (though still not as good as even a FatCat mod).

 The other opamp is a significantly poorer performer and I could understand someone being so disappointed as to consider it 'rubbish' on first listen (I don't know how much it improves with burn in but even the burned in one I had was an insult to the potential of the phones themselves).

 More detail in the first few pages of the Mod thread - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...thread-277049/

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It may sound somewhat better with mods or a bigger amp but it doesn't scale up like the lambdas do and I can't see anyone buying a big amp for the sole purpose of running the 003 better._

 

I must admit I've never compared the relative scaling up ability of these two phones. However the 001 Mk2 does definitely improve when fed by a better amp IMHO. Maybe not as much as the Lambda (although I've never tried running a Lambda with the portable amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) but it definitely improves.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to be totally disagreeable, I do agree about the merits of the 717. So why are the subsequent Stax transistor amps not as well-regarded? What did Stax do to compromise their sound?_

 

I think this was discussed in a little detail in this thread when the 727 was released and first tried by some HeadFi-ers. Might be worth doing a thread search.


----------



## edstrelow

"Enough already"????

 OK but don't then argue your point of view. That is like arguing with my wife. Always wants the last word.

 I see the listing is now corrected. There is a Sigma pro and a Signature. I wonder why the link didn't work, I just used the copy feature.

 If this lot of phones goes for less than $2K it would be a bargain.

 Is the SRMT1 worth getting? The Stax tube amps have a lot of critics in this forum.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Enough already"????

 OK but don't then argue your point of view. That is like arguing with my wife. Always wants the last word._

 

In all my dictionaries the last word is zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. And that's generally the one my wife claims I give her when the argument goes on too long. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see the listing is now corrected. There is a Sigma pro and a Signature. I wonder why the link didn't work, I just used the copy feature._

 

I don't know how it happened but the link started with 'hthttp:' - don't know where the extra 'ht' came from.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If this lot of phones goes for less than $2K it would be a bargain.

 Is the SRMT1 worth getting? The Stax tube amps have a lot of critics in this forum._

 

My machine that can see into the future shows 17 potential futures where it all goes for well less than $2K. But, alas, they're all the potential futures that don't have 'Head-Fi' in them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And, yes, although you may want to tuberoll, the SRM-T1 is a very capable amp (Can often wish I hadn't sold mine) - spritzer did a Han Solo ("I've made a lot of special modifications myself") on his and enjoyed it for quite a good period of time IIRC.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Looks like a Sigma, Sigma Pro (the black one, which the seller doesn't identify as such) a SR5 and what the seller calls an Alpha but which looks like a Lambda, possibly a Signature or 404/Signature. 

 The seller seems to think the SRM T1 amp is the prize, but I think the money is in the phones. 

_

 

it is easy to convince people about the amps' functionality, while quite hard to be certain about the phones, unless they are in mint condition. Especially when the person who claimed "all item are in good working condition" also called the Lambda-looking phone an "Alpha". 

 I'd guess it will go for maybe 1.2~1.4k? can still be a pretty good deal though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to be totally disagreeable, I do agree about the merits of the 717. So why are the subsequent Stax transistor amps not as well-regarded? What did Stax do to compromise their sound?_

 

Stax messed with the circuitry to remove the negative feedback and since it just can't be removed they had to redesign the whole amp. It makes no sense to me but some people have a pathological hatred of NFB to it might make those idiots happy. The sound has certainly suffered.


----------



## ericj

Well, _SOMEBODY_, who shall remain nameless (you know who you are!), wants me to make him an ESP/7 to Stax Low Bias adapter. 

 He says he has a minty fresh ESP/7 with no energizer, and that he believes that the pinout was the same as the ESP/9. 

 Pleading with him to just rewire them in the earcups proved fruitless. 

 I recall having seen the ESP/9 pinout on headwize back in the day, but headwize is down and the relevant pages don't seem to be in google's cache. 

 Anybody got it handy?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I find it beautiful that there is discussion of the 717 amp, on post page 717. isnt the world a mysterious place.


----------



## yoff

It is !


----------



## AudioCats

E/7 is 360V bias, with two bias supplie lines, and inner stator wires are tied together to the speaker amp's ground (which is a good thing, so there is no way you can get zapped ear-to-ear even if the stator insulation has gone bad).

 Not sure if the drivers are hardwired to have common inner stator too. If it is, then there is no way you can mate it to a Stax amp/box without total re-wiring of the drivers.


 since you don't have a E/7, the easiest way to drive the ESP7 is by dropping the bias voltages in a E/9 .


----------



## malldian

Can someone summarize the recable options for a sr lambda? Mega search didn't find anything promissing..


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone summarize the recable options for a sr lambda? Mega search didn't find anything promissing.._

 

there might not be any option that is worth doing ( not as an upgrade)


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone summarize the recable options for a sr lambda? Mega search didn't find anything promissing.._

 

I went through this Search as well. It produced no promising results. Luckily my lambda started working. No IDEa why. I do expect to have to recable at some point though. Sucks


----------



## Lil' Knight

What's the point in recabling the Lambdas? The cable sucks?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_E/7 is 360V bias, with two bias supplie lines, and inner stator wires are tied together to the speaker amp's ground (which is a good thing, so there is no way you can get zapped ear-to-ear even if the stator insulation has gone bad).

 Not sure if the drivers are hardwired to have common inner stator too. If it is, then there is no way you can mate it to a Stax amp/box without total re-wiring of the drivers.


 since you don't have a E/7, the easiest way to drive the ESP7 is by dropping the bias voltages in a E/9 ._

 

You make interesting points. 

 Perhaps i should just offer to rewire it, since an E/7 in good condition is unlikely to turn up anyway.


----------



## AudioCats

I thought you have many E/9's, why not just mod one of them, probably easier than recabling the ESP7.


----------



## AudioCats

30 seconds....


----------



## AudioCats

hmm, so it went for 1.5K

 (I know you guys were watching too)


----------



## n3rdling




----------



## ericj

Nah, I have one 'working' E/9 and one gutted E/9. 

 and i hate my vintage koss 'stats. Which makes me wonder why i bought an esp6 even after i knew i hated my esp9. 

 (my esp9 does not work properly. it may or may not work properly if i recable it. I no longer care.)


----------



## AudioCats

put the ESP6 drivers into the ESP9 housing, and recable, and mod the E/9 to drive the ESP7.5 ([6+9]/2=7.5). 

 Should sound about the same as a ESP7.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, SOMEBODY, who shall remain nameless (you know who you are!), wants me to make him an ESP/7 to Stax Low Bias adapter. 

 He says he has a minty fresh ESP/7 with no energizer, and that he believes that the pinout was the same as the ESP/9. 

 Pleading with him to just rewire them in the earcups proved fruitless. 

 I recall having seen the ESP/9 pinout on headwize back in the day, but headwize is down and the relevant pages don't seem to be in google's cache. 

 Anybody got it handy?_

 

You can't make an adapter from Koss to Stax without hooking the 6core input cable up directly to the drivers first. The Koss phones have a ground connection so plugging them into a Stax amp will have some interesting results. The - stators are driven at a diminished capacity or even at 0v (can't remeber 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)) so the phones are operating in push-pull mode but with limited backwave.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone summarize the recable options for a sr lambda? Mega search didn't find anything promissing.._

 

Germania recabled a set of lambdas with silver plated copper wire rated for 600v. I suppose your options consist of recabling using whatever you can find wire wise that you like and is rated to a high enough voltage. 

 The alternative would be to use a modern spares stax cable from a 404 and terminating with a normal bias plug. The normal bias plug uses a single bias connection whereas the pro has two but this wont make any difference as long as your plugging into a 230v bias and not 580.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The normal bias plug uses a single bias connection whereas the pro has two but this wont make any difference as long as your plugging into a 230v bias and not 580._

 

It's the other way around. The best option is to replace the cable with a SR-202 unit since they are identical except for the missing pin. That could always be retrofitted with some epoxy.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm, so it went for 1.5K

 (I know you guys were watching too)_

 

That was a deal - 2 prominent pro phones, 2 good low bias phones, a tube amp, a portable amp and a low bias adpter. I was tempted but didn't need any of the phones, or any more phones. If this lot had been broken up or properly identifed in the heading it could have gone a lot higher.

 Even now every now and again you can get a decent buy on ebay.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nah, I have one 'working' E/9 and one gutted E/9. 

 and i hate my vintage koss 'stats. Which makes me wonder why i bought an esp6 even after i knew i hated my esp9. 

 (my esp9 does not work properly. it may or may not work properly if i recable it. I no longer care.)_

 

I like both my old ESP6 and ESP9. I find them very listenable with a wide variety of music and a good match with my Radio Shack Sherwood amp. The 6 has a more prominent midrange than the 9. The 9 in my opinion needs a midrange boost but is otherwise a better phone. 

 If you need a half-way decent fully sealed electrostatic these are a good buy, generally less than $100.00 on ebay. However they often need cleaning up. My ESP6 wouldn't run much at all l when I first got them but now are pretty close to original operation (I owned one way back when) 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/kos...tatics-234504/

 Their main sonic weakness is a lack of air/ambience. I wonder if this could be improved with some re-wiring, especially of the 9's energizer?

 One of these days I must try to again to run my extra 9 phones from a Stax amp.


----------



## AudioCats

one note on the vintage Koss: as far as I can tell from my recabled ESP10, these old phones requires a tremendous amount of power to drive well, you might want to stick with using transformer boxes (well unless you can try them with a BH or something). 

 The 950, though by itself can be considered as "difficult to push", is actually an easier load than the ESP10.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the point in recabling the Lambdas? The cable sucks?_

 

the opposite problem actually. its a really nice cord. But mine has a faulty connection on one side. something is happening right at the base of the cans. a broken wire maybe. Replacing it with a probias 202 cable seems the correct way to go, but NO ONE could give me a straight answer on getting one. I tried a long time, to no avail. so I'll wait till the inevitable.

 spritzer, if this cord actually fails on my lambdas at the point of entry, could I just cut the cord before the faulty part and resolder? no one has mentioned that option. a whole new cord for one little area seems like overkill. thoughts? what dont I know?


----------



## -=Germania=-

Yeah, you can Keith, 

 That is whay I did originally, but it was shorter in the Y than I cared for and I had fears that there were faults in other areas of the cable hense the recable.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's the other way around. ...._

 

Yeah I knew that I was just testing to make sure you were all paying attention


----------



## gjkphd

I decided to explore the world of electro statics a few months ago to compliment my grado/ATH--Yammie set up. I started with the Koss ESP-950 and paired it with a Stax 717 SS amp. This combo did not do it for me. The Koss sounded dead (vs. lively) with little punch and very weak bass. So before I give up on the electrostatics could you recommend a Stax phone to try, esp one that mates well with the 717, which I have held on to. (I listen to mostly classic rock and jazz)

 thanks


----------



## malldian

Just took apart my lambda, the dust cover has cracks in it, what would a suitable replacement be?

 edit: I think it is called the dust shield from the reading I have been doing.

 edit 2: mylar? How important is this stuff..

 edit 3: Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try here for 6um stuff and here is some 3.5um film. They are in Australia but they have the thinnest film I know about online and their coating material is pretty good. I've bought from them and the shipping is fast with no problems at all._

 


 If this is my only option I will look into it, anyone have any others? How important is the tensioning and does anyone have suggestions for glue to use?


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to explore the world of electro statics a few months ago to compliment my grado/ATH--Yammie set up. I started with the Koss ESP-950 and paired it with a Stax 717 SS amp. This combo did not do it for me. The Koss sounded dead (vs. lively) with little punch and very weak bass. So before I give up on the electrostatics could you recommend a Stax phone to try, esp one that mates well with the 717, which I have held on to. (I listen to mostly classic rock and jazz)

 thanks_

 

Though they aren't as detailed as the O2s, I like my Lambda Nova Signatures.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to explore the world of electro statics a few months ago to compliment my grado/ATH--Yammie set up. I started with the Koss ESP-950 and paired it with a Stax 717 SS amp. This combo did not do it for me. The Koss sounded dead (vs. lively) with little punch and very weak bass. So before I give up on the electrostatics could you recommend a Stax phone to try, esp one that mates well with the 717, which I have held on to. (I listen to mostly classic rock and jazz)

 thanks_

 

I have heard the ESP950 and properly amped they sound great. I have not heard the SRM-717 but everything I have heard says it is a great amp and that it's the only Stax brand amp that can drive the SR-007 Mk1 decently. So, I have to wonder if something else is awry, like the music files, source (DAC/Transport) or interconnects?

 The Lambda Nova Signature is a good suggestion, and you may also like the Lambda Signature, but I would stay away from the Lambda Pro due to it's sucked out mids. I thought the vintage normal bias SR-Lambda sounded better than the Pro. If you can afford it maybe you should go for the SR-007, but keep the 717 for sure (as long as it is functioning well). You certainly wont have any trouble selling the 717 if you decide to part with it, as they are highly sought after (sorry guys). If you cant find an SR-007 Mk1 and have to get the Mk2, be sure to find the "Spritzer ear-pad mod" and do that to fix the overly forward mids.


----------



## gjkphd

thanks for the input so far. I'm sure the Koss/Stax combo was properly set up. I even bypassed the volume pot on the Stax. Spritzer had suggested this is a cleaner signal path. Are the Lambda Nova Sig and Lambda Sig very old models?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks for the input so far. I'm sure the Koss/Stax combo was properly set up. I even bypassed the volume pot on the Stax. Spritzer had suggested this is a cleaner signal path. Are the Lambda Nova Sig and Lambda Sig very old models?_

 

I am also interested in this. I thought the lambda nova signature and lambda signature were the same. oh so confusing.


----------



## gjkphd

I answered my own question--this is sampled from Wikipedia with dates of initial release

 SR-Lambda Signature 1987 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-Alpha Pro Excellent 1989 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-80 Pro 1989 Electret 
 SR-30 pro 1989 Electret 
 SR-Lambda Pro Classic 1993 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-Omega 1993 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-Lambda Nova Basic 1994 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-Lambda Nova Classic 1994 Pro, 5 Pin 
 SR-Lambda Nova Signature 1994 Pro, 5 Pin


----------



## catscratch

I haven't heard the 950 with the 717. However, the 717 is a fairly laid-back and polite amp, and if you mate it with a laid-back and polite source the combo can sound lacking in dynamic range - _especially_ if you're coming from a dynamic system that is punchy and bassy. Electrostatics _can_ be punchy and bassy but you do need some work and the right components to get them there.

 The O2 is a good suggestion but I don't know if it will be more punchy than the 950 in your current system (though once again I haven't heard the 950 so I can't say for sure). I had an Cambridge Audio 840c player with the O2/717 and the system did sound very polite on a lot of recordings. It had dynamic range but I can easily see how, if I were a Grado fan for instance, I would have thought it dull. However on other recordings it came alive, and was filled with dynamics, color, and life. With a Resolution Audio Opus 21 player, the dynamic range picked up quite a bit, and the system became much more vivid, though there were some problems in other areas which the 840c didn't have. So, if you want to pursue the 950/717 system further, it may make sense to take it to a high-end dealer and audition some sources simply to get a feel for how the system changes when you change out the source.

 'Stats in general are very revealing, and will expose flaws in your signal path that you never knew were there.

 A SRD-7 Pro transformer box, mated with a good speaker amp, can make a 'stat system very lively, but you will sacrifice some microdetail. The O2 does in general need a lot more power than the transformer box can give it - so you will end up with less than stellar bass control and slightly recessed highs. Once again, I don't know how the 950 will behave.

 I haven't heard any aftermarket amps past the 717 with a few exceptions that were less than stellar, so I'll leave them out for now.

 It could also simply be that you prefer dynamic headphones and want more bass punch and dynamic range than what a lot of 'stats can deliver. You _can_ get serious bass punch and dynamic range out of a lot of 'stats (especially O2) but it's not as simple as just picking any old amp and source, and you will need a signal path that's tuned for that particular presentation. The 717 is a great amp but giant bass punch is not its strong suit. You may want to read up on the Blue Hawaii or the KGSS.

 [Edit: also the 950 needs 600v bias vs 580v that the 717 outputs, and that may contribute to lacking dynamics. Also, there could of course be any number of problems with the system but I don't have the technical skills to guess as to what.]


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can't make an adapter from Koss to Stax without hooking the 6core input cable up directly to the drivers first. The Koss phones have a ground connection so plugging them into a Stax amp will have some interesting results. The - stators are driven at a diminished capacity or even at 0v (can't remeber 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)) so the phones are operating in push-pull mode but with limited backwave._

 

Does the ESP/7 suffer from the same design issues as the ESP/9 in this regard?


----------



## gjkphd

Yes, it could be that my preference is for a dynamic system over stats. I'm sure there was nothing wrong with the set up. My source is a Lector tube CD through a VAC tube preamp and I use the same brand of IC's throughout the system. I still want to satisfy my curiosity by trying another electrostatic phone. Is the 02 a very old model, it wasn't listed in the Wikipedia list of stax phones. Is it 0 like zero or is that an O as in Omega model?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it could be that my preference is for a dynamic system over stats. I'm sure there was nothing wrong with the set up. My source is a Lector tube CD through a VAC tube preamp and I use the same brand of IC's throughout the system. I still want to satisfy my curiosity by trying another electrostatic phone. Is the 02 a very old model, it wasn't listed in the Wikipedia list of stax phones. Is it 0 like zero or is that an O as in Omega model?_

 

By "O2" I mean the Stax SR-007 Omega 2. It was introduced in 1998, and was discontinued in 2007 (I think) in favor of the SR-007 Mk2 (SR-007a in Japan), which I think is inferior (though still a good headphone). The original SR-007 (which we sometimes call the O2 Mk1) is usually available used at $1400 or so, and you should be mindful that the pads usually don't last very long since the foam inside them starts to deform, so if you get a used O2, get new pads right away. The Mk2 pads are slightly different in shape and original pads are preferred. Also the fit with the O2 matters a great deal, and the pads can rotate on the earcup and be worn in a variety of different positions. They have a "D" shape with the vertical part of the "D" being thicker, and I prefer to have that part in the position that's right between below the ear and behind the ear - but you'll have to play around to get the best fit for yourself. The headband can be bent mercilessly to apply however much clamping force you need.

 I think this is the best headphone ever made but of course it will not be to everyone's preferences. It has a very neutral sound with a lifelike tone, great detail but detail that's very naturally presented, is very fluid and organic sounding, has a lot of weight and heft behind each note, and has some of the best imaging I've heard in a headphone with a very 3-dimensional soundstage.

 There's plenty of info out there about the O2, check it out for yourself. Specifically, there's a review published by Darth Nut that really describes the O2 down to a tee and should be mandatory reading (found in PDF format here).

 It's very difficult to drive but the 717 will do reasonably well, it's what I use in my system. The Headamp Blue Hawaii Special Edition and the new Woo Audio electrostatic amp (don't have a name or final price yet but it's coming soon) should be substantial upgrades over the 717 if you feel like going that way, but they won't be cheap.

 Of course, the O2 isn't the only good 'stat out there and my preferences for it are just that... preferences.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just took apart my lambda, the dust cover has cracks in it, what would a suitable replacement be?

 edit: I think it is called the dust shield from the reading I have been doing.

 edit 2: mylar? How important is this stuff..

 edit 3:


 If this is my only option I will look into it, anyone have any others? How important is the tensioning and does anyone have suggestions for glue to use?_

 

The easiest way to fix the dustcover it just to cover the cracks with tape. Any clear tape will do but the cheaper (also lighter) the better. The bond will be very strong so don't make any mistakes. 

 If you want to replace it then I use polyurethane glue and mylar but just about any plastic film will do. It's thickness will have an impact on the sound though so thinner is better. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the ESP/7 suffer from the same design issues as the ESP/9 in this regard?_

 

The basic design is the same so yes.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to explore the world of electro statics a few months ago to compliment my grado/ATH--Yammie set up. I started with the Koss ESP-950 and paired it with a Stax 717 SS amp. This combo did not do it for me. The Koss sounded dead (vs. lively) with little punch and very weak bass. So before I give up on the electrostatics could you recommend a Stax phone to try, esp one that mates well with the 717, which I have held on to. (I listen to mostly classic rock and jazz)

 thanks_

 

I find the 950/717 a great combo for classic rock and jazz. The Lambda series has more bite in the upper midrange that you may like. The Lambda Nova Signature and Lambda Signature are good choices. The O2mk1 is my top choice for any type of music and is a good mate with the 717. The O2 is so refined that some people don’t give them a chance find them dark and heavy sounding. The O2 also demands the best source and cables. Because the 950/717 is such a great rock and jazz setup and you are not happy with them I think that electrostatics may not be for you. Many classic rock recordings are so compressed and poorly produced that a punchy less resolving dynamic may be the better choice.


----------



## kintsaki

I must agree with audiod.

 Coming from the Grado RS-1 when I compared it to the stock ESP-950 I felt as I was taken because the 650$ stock Koss was so superior to the 750$ RS-1 and the 850$ RKV II or the Corda Prehead. So I decided to go the Stax route and I bought the 717 and srd7 and tried them with the Sigma, Omega2, and Omicron (SR-003) and then I felt taken again. So if Koss does not sound better to you than Grado's don't bother trying any Stax or Jade for that matter. And the above is with one of the most aggressive sources on earth that can actually damage your equipment if you are not careful.


----------



## kintsaki

I have a few questions:

 1)I can adjust the bias to my custom made srd7 to 600V. Could I try the Omega2 or Omicron at that higher bias or I run the risk to damage the phones.

 2)I have taken apart my Sigma and removed the white foam that had started to deteriorate and threw it away planing to replace it with new material. Now I cannot find this material in my hometown. Can any of you tell me where to source the appropriate material or sell me the stuff?

 3)Now that I am at it should I re-cable or replace the drivers with 404 one's?


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The easiest way to fix the dustcover it just to cover the cracks with tape. Any clear tape will do but the cheaper (also lighter) the better. The bond will be very strong so don't make any mistakes. 

 If you want to replace it then I use polyurethane glue and mylar but just about any plastic film will do. It's thickness will have an impact on the sound though so thinner is better. _

 

Spritzer, do the dust-covers have to be airtight? This means the covers get moved by the diaphragm - and affect/slow down its movement. Besides their mass their tension will play a role, too. Wouldn't it be a better idea to have something like a textile cover that lets the air pass through with as little resistance as possible?


----------



## spritzer

They don't have to be airtight but Stax have moved towards airtight drivers after the great design initiative which resulted in the SR-Omega. The enclosed air damps the main diaphragm but has minimal negative effects if the dustcover isn't as tight as the main diaphragm (i.e. it won't ring). You have remember that electrostatic drivers don't push and pull the air like dynamic drivers but rather make it vibrate and the lighter then air membranes let all the sound through. The pocket of air trapped next to the driver helps to minimize the effect of the inherent resonant frequency which all diaphragms have. 

 Most electrostatic headphones do use some form of a woven dustcover (usually on the back stator) but this can cause problems as so many owners of HE60's and Jades can attest to.


----------



## chi2

Great background information. Concise as always and much appreciated, thanks!


----------



## condor

Wooohooo - I'm finally in Stax land!

 Stax was the brand that brought me into head-fi. 

 I listened 4 months ago to a 4040 setup at a local dealer and was so impressed, it was unbelievable. But well it was sooo far away being so extremely expensive (1400€ or more). 

 I then went straight HD650 + Beresford but Stax was still there...

 Weeks ago I got a SR-404 with new earpads for 275€ and now the SRM-1/MK-2 PP for 230+50€ customs.

 Starting with Tannhäuser right now


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-404 with new earpads 
 SRM-1/MK-2 PP 
 Tannhäuser_

 

Good place to start!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kintsaki* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a few questions:

 1)I can adjust the bias to my custom made srd7 to 600V. Could I try the Omega2 or Omicron at that higher bias or I run the risk to damage the phones._

 

Yes. Any pro bias Stax is safe at 600v. That's less than a 5% increase. That kind of difference can be reached by a stock unit if all the part tolerances fall in the right direction. The sound quality will not change but the level will increase a tad. Now 700V would be too much. The second phone output on the SRM-T1W has an adjustable bias. Stax states in the manual that this can be used as a volume control to match the level to the phone in the other output.

 Question... What kind of meter are you using to measure the voltage? To get a accurate reading you need an extremely high input impedence voltmeter or your reading will be way low.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. Any pro bias Stax is safe at 600v. That's less than a 5% increase. That kind of difference can be reached by a stock unit if all the part tolerances fall in the right direction. The sound quality will not change but the level will increase a tad. Now 700V would be too much. The second phone output on the SRM-T1W has an adjustable bias. Stax states in the manual that this can be used as a volume control to match the level to the phone in the other output.

 Question... What kind of meter are you using to measure the voltage? To get a accurate reading you need an extremely high input impedence voltmeter or your reading will be way low._

 

So from what I know, the SRM-T1W is exactly the same as the SRM-T1 except for the inputs. I want to go up to 600V on one of my pro outputs for the ESP950. 620V is probably dangerous to the Lambdas. Can you post any info from the manual?

 I use a Fluke 12 MM.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I decided to explore the world of electro statics a few months ago to compliment my grado/ATH--Yammie set up. I started with the Koss ESP-950 and paired it with a Stax 717 SS amp. This combo did not do it for me. The Koss sounded dead (vs. lively) with little punch and very weak bass. So before I give up on the electrostatics could you recommend a Stax phone to try, esp one that mates well with the 717, which I have held on to. (I listen to mostly classic rock and jazz)

 thanks_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gjkphd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it could be that my preference is for a dynamic system over stats. I'm sure there was nothing wrong with the set up. My source is a Lector tube CD through a VAC tube preamp and I use the same brand of IC's throughout the system. I still want to satisfy my curiosity by trying another electrostatic phone. Is the 02 a very old model, it wasn't listed in the Wikipedia list of stax phones. Is it 0 like zero or is that an O as in Omega model?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the 950/717 a great combo for classic rock and jazz. The Lambda series has more bite in the upper midrange that you may like. The Lambda Nova Signature and Lambda Signature are good choices. The O2mk1 is my top choice for any type of music and is a good mate with the 717. The O2 is so refined that some people don’t give them a chance find them dark and heavy sounding. The O2 also demands the best source and cables. Because the 950/717 is such a great rock and jazz setup and you are not happy with them I think that electrostatics may not be for you. Many classic rock recordings are so compressed and poorly produced that a punchy less resolving dynamic may be the better choice._

 

I was just listening to my Koss 950 driven by the Stax 717 and it seemed pretty punchy but lacking a certain amount of deep bass compared to the Stax 007A and even the Stax 404. 

 Now while the 404 has more deep bass that the 950, the 950's still had more of the finger snapping quality. I can't say for sure but I doubt that you will be satisfied with any of the Lambdas .

 I suspect that unless your 950 adapter is faulty you may be missing some deep bass. The 007a will give you that although at a considerable cost and you also may need to tweak this phone. There has been quite some controversy about the Stax flagship Omega line of phones as to whether the revisions of this model have helped the sound. I personally find nothing wrong with the last revision, the 007a but I prefer it with some mods. I flatten the spring in the earcup as Spritzer has suggested and position the earcups opposite to what most here seem to do, i.e. I place the circular part behind the ear.

 I have discussed the need to tweak this phone here.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/t...estion-381975/

 Apparently the 007 model is even bassier.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. Any pro bias Stax is safe at 600v. That's less than a 5% increase. That kind of difference can be reached by a stock unit if all the part tolerances fall in the right direction. The sound quality will not change but the level will increase a tad. Now 700V would be too much. The second phone output on the SRM-T1W has an adjustable bias. Stax states in the manual that this can be used as a volume control to match the level to the phone in the other output._

 

Nahh, I've run my Omegas at 700v and they didn't complain one bit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not going to recommend it though. One thing that that we should all remeber, the electrostatic force drops with the square of the distance so a 100v change at 600v is much less of an issue then at 200v. The D/S gaps are 0.3mm on normal bias phones (230v), 0.5mm on Pro bias (0.5mm) and Stax are said to have researched 0.7mm gap for the SR-Omega which had a 1100v bias. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question... What kind of meter are you using to measure the voltage? To get a accurate reading you need an extremely high input impedence voltmeter or your reading will be way low._

 

Ditto. If the input impedance is too low then you are loading the very high-impedance PSU and all readings will be off. It you try to measure after the ballast resistor then the low impedance causes it to drop the voltage.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So from what I know, the SRM-T1W is exactly the same as the SRM-T1 except for the inputs. I want to go up to 600V on one of my pro outputs for the ESP950. 620V is probably dangerous to the Lambdas. Can you post any info from the manual?

 I use a Fluke 12 MM._

 

As far as I know all Fluke meters have a standard 10 meg ohm input impedance which is too low for measuring the bias supply. You should look into a High Voltage probe that will work into the standard 10 meg ohm Fluke load. Fluke makes 2 models. The 40KV model would be my choice because it has the highest input impedance. There are also other makes of probes, do a Google search. Just make sure that they are for a 10 meg ohm load meter. There are also a number of models that are self contained with their own meter. If you use your Fluke 12 and set the bias voltage to 600v you will actually be setting to a higher voltage when you disconnect the meter from the circuit.

 The T1W is the same circuit as the T1S. I will find the manual and quote the section on variable bias.

 I'm not sure all this fuss is worth it. The small variance in voltage that you are talking about is too small to make any sonic differences. The only thing you will hear is a little gain in volume. Years ago I tried over 1000 volts on a set of Lambda Pro’s and it started to sound like frying eggs in the background. I think that if I left it this way it would eventually fry off the conductive coating on the diaphragm and ruin the drivers.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. Any pro bias Stax is safe at 600v. That's less than a 5% increase. That kind of difference can be reached by a stock unit if all the part tolerances fall in the right direction. The sound quality will not change but the level will increase a tad. Now 700V would be too much. The second phone output on the SRM-T1W has an adjustable bias. Stax states in the manual that this can be used as a volume control to match the level to the phone in the other output.

 Question... What kind of meter are you using to measure the voltage? To get a accurate reading you need an extremely high input impedance voltmeter or your reading will be way low._

 

I have commissioned "yanni" to build a custom transformer srd7 pro for me and based on your and spritzer's answer I will ask him to build a 600V bias instead of 580V so I can be as close to spec as possible for both the Koss and Stax given that 580<600<620. 
 I will ask him how he will measure voltage.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As far as I know all Fluke meters have a standard 10 meg ohm input impedance which is too low for measuring the bias supply. You should look into a High Voltage probe that will work into the standard 10 meg ohm Fluke load. Fluke makes 2 models. The 40KV model would be my choice because it has the highest input impedance. There are also other makes of probes, do a Google search. Just make sure that they are for a 10 meg ohm load meter. There are also a number of models that are self contained with their own meter. If you use your Fluke 12 and set the bias voltage to 600v you will actually be setting to a higher voltage when you disconnect the meter from the circuit.

 The T1W is the same circuit as the T1S. I will find the manual and quote the section on variable bias.

 I'm not sure all this fuss is worth it. The small variance in voltage that you are talking about is too small to make any sonic differences. The only thing you will hear is a little gain in volume. Years ago I tried over 1000 volts on a set of Lambda Pro’s and it started to sound like frying eggs in the background. I think that if I left it this way it would eventually fry off the conductive coating on the diaphragm and ruin the drivers._

 

Thanks for the tips and searching the info, I'll look into getting those probes (seems they sell for $100-150!).

 I'm not sure either about raising the bias for the ESP950. I have heard that the bias only effects volume and I have heard that it also effects sound quality. I'm curious myself, but this is the only way I could think to test it. It couldn't hurt too much at 620 volts bias it seems for the Lambdas and Koss, which is good news to me as well. I rarely get to a four though on the T1 with the volume, mostly stick between 3 and 3.5 out of 10.


----------



## tako_tsubo

I wanted to try out a good tube preamp to pair up with some future ss amp to run my Onix Ref 1’s in BEM that I recently did a master ninja crossover upgrade. I am currently using a Onix SP3 to play the ref’s but using some strong separates on them had my interest. While I was researching tube preamps an EC HD300 came up for sale and I jumped on it. Hey it’s the first EC HP amp and will look good next to the ZDT I have preordered. I was strictly going to use this as a preamp…but I did have to try out its HP use, which was good and on the warm side as has been noted on a search I did of this head-amp. I am still waiting for the right ss amp to show up….so I have been busy collecting some tubes to roll.

 Now what does all have to do with Stax?…well I have read about preamping into the srm717 with some positive results. I have actually tried this out using a Lavry DA10 as the source, from a squeezebox running apple lossless. I tried out my Parasound Halo P3 preamp…BUT I did not think there was a major change…not enough to use up the P3 on this system. I was hoping to get some added forwardness to the SR007’s…the preamp experiment was done and forgotten.

 But then I had the HD 300 really just sitting around…so I set it up as a preamp to the SRM717 as before. And to my surprise I think I am hearing a positive change to the SR007’s. Deeper bass and some increased detail and forwardness to the mids and somewhat to the trebles. Now I had previously added signalcable silver IC’s over the holidays and liked what I heard…seemed overall a touch clearer thru the mids and lower trebles. This tube preamp tho added some much needed slam to the bass.
 Maybe it the new toy placebo effects but I think it warranted some tube rolling experiments. 
 I initially had the Svetlana 6H13C/6AS7G power tube in with a tung sol 6sn7...but it was too warm and the treble rolled off…but the bass seemed deeper and had a sense of power than just using the Lavry straight into the 717. I also have a Tung Sol gray plate 6as7G and a sylvannia 6as7g…these two tubes really brought out some good bass/slam out of the 007’s…it is very close to what I am getting out of the srd 7mk2 + dared clone hybrid amp…but the overall sound is still on the warm side… the upper mids and treble do not seem significantly affected by this change in power tube. I have a Tung Sol 5998 tube coming soon. And I have yet to try a RCA VT231 or the other 6sn7 driver tubes that I have. 

 The TS 6as7g and the TS 6sn7GT tubes make my son's hd 600 sound very good....
 Anyone try a tube preamp with their 717?


----------



## Lil' Knight

I just wonder if anyone has tried comparing the beta22+srd7mk2 with the 717 or KGSS, feeding the O2? Does the powerful b22 bring enough power to waken up the o2?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the tips and searching the info, I'll look into getting those probes (seems they sell for $100-150!).

 I'm not sure either about raising the bias for the ESP950. I have heard that the bias only effects volume and I have heard that it also effects sound quality. I'm curious myself, but this is the only way I could think to test it. It couldn't hurt too much at 620 volts bias it seems for the Lambdas and Koss, which is good news to me as well. I rarely get to a four though on the T1 with the volume, mostly stick between 3 and 3.5 out of 10._

 

Bias affects the potential of the drivers and thus only the volume indirectly. A stronger magnet in a ribbon driver will perhaps give you a bit more volume but it also provides much better control over the diaphragm. It's the same deal with electrostatics. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wonder if anyone has tried comparing the beta22+srd7mk2 with the 717 or KGSS, feeding the O2? Does the powerful b22 bring enough power to waken up the o2?_

 

You can put a 1kW amp on the SRD-7 Mk2 and it still won't be enough since the size of the transformers is the limiting factor.


----------



## n3rdling

Perhaps a PoorMan's Adaptor can help that?


----------



## condor

So I got my SRM-1/MK-2 P.P. which is currently set to 220V by the previous headfier. 

 I know it's a class A amp so it's expected to get warm, but I've also read
 that running the 220V with ~240V ("modern Europe") will further increase the heat. About what difference are we speaking there? I think my amp runs
 more than "hand warm" and if this +20V would make a big difference then I'd perhaps do this if it increases it's lifetime.

 Now I've found


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post3902577

 So my change would be:

 - disconnect Green + Gray
 - pick Gray and solder it to Purple

 is this right?







 Are those plugs somehow internally connected (eg does it make a difference 
 on which plug I connect them?)?

 If there's no internal connection I could simply detach green completely from now and resolder green down to purple? (Or purple up to gray...)


----------



## indikator

oh my,
 my newbie soldering looks really crappy at close up......

 no there is no internal connection at those post, they are meant to be connected on outside using a plug but as you know your amp do not have that convenient plug

 btw it is normal for the amp to run hot, in fact this one will cool down when idle as oppose to my previous 'A' version one which run hot all the time


----------



## John Buchanan

Wouldn't that suggest that the later versions of the SRM1 Mk 2 no longer run in Class A?


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh my,
 my newbie soldering looks really crappy at close up......

 no there is no internal connection at those post, they are meant to be connected on outside using a plug but as you know your amp do not have that convenient plug

 btw it is normal for the amp to run hot, in fact this one will cool down when idle as oppose to my previous 'A' version one which run hot all the time_

 

Ah there you are 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, my soldering skills will be much more amateur like (I just soldered one or two times) that's why I'm asking in such a detailed way..

 But I think disconnect green, disconnect purple, put purple to grey should be something I should be able to do, too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I know this propably can't be compared, but my integrated amp Technics SU-V5 is new class A and it only runs like handwarm (new class A is expected to be warmer than class A, from what I've read). 

 If let's say this 220V -> 240V change would decrease the temperature by ~5°C+ perhaps it's worth it...


----------



## spritzer

I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps a PoorMan's Adaptor can help that? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was going to try some cheap transformers but it's off now since I just bought a SR-404LE. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wouldn't that suggest that the later versions of the SRM1 Mk 2 no longer run in Class A?_

 

They could have decreased the bias a bit but it is still within Class A.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing._

 

That's right, of course.

 I just don't want to have this united overheated, a fever thermometer (...) get's maxed on the air slits (meaning over 43°C) so I guess even for Class A it's way too much, isn't it?


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to try some cheap transformers but it's off now since I just bought a SR-404LE. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats!

 (So it was you who snatched the LE on YahooJP? I'm really interested in what the silver wire will do to the upper-midrange/lower-highs peak of the 404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wooohooo - I'm finally in Stax land!_

 

Welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Lets hope upgraditis fair well with you...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's right, of course.

 I just don't want to have this united overheated, a fever thermometer (...) get's maxed on the air slits (meaning over 43°C) so I guess even for Class A it's way too much, isn't it?_

 

43°C is nothing for a Class A amp so no worries. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats!

 (So it was you who snatched the LE on YahooJP? I'm really interested in what the silver wire will do to the upper-midrange/lower-highs peak of the 404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)._

 

It was Craig but on my behalf. From what info I've gotten so far it is more of the same (similar to the SR-007A) so I'll probably rip them apart and do my SR-404 mods.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_43°C is nothing for a Class A amp so no worries. _

 

Ok, thank you godfather.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing._

 

I've done it! 

 And it's still working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thank you for your nice pics...


----------



## spritzer

Good to see that you are still alive.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good to see that you are still alive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, I'm glad too, that means more time to enjoy the rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Girlfriend: Let's hope it doesn't break in the next days.. :/


----------



## jellojoe

I'm having some trouble with my normal bias lambdas. 

 I'm using them with a rev A SRM-1/MK II, and the right driver is making these drum tapping sounds without any input (cables disconnected or music paused). If there is music playing, I can hear it from the right driver, but there is no sound from the left driver and the tapping noise doesn't stop. The pro bias of the amp works fine, but I don't have any other normal bias phones so I can't check. Has any of you Stax gurus experienced this phenomenon? TIA.


----------



## ak40ozKevin

This is coming out of nowhere but I've come to really only like the SR-001 in theory (portable STAX? ****in awesome!). After owning them for almost 2 years I simply can't recommend them for anything but home use and maybe to accompany a laptop setup. Which means people should go for the SR-003 if they want a compact stat setup. Really the only reason for this is the ridiculously fragile cable on the SR-001. 

 I had a problem with it once and sent the whole unit off for warranty repair which took months. When I finally got it back the same cable issue occurred in about 4-5 months of moderate to light use. I was really careful after the first issue occurred and hardly ever used the thing since I got a good deal on a 2050A system. The 2nd time I had cable issues I opted to repair it myself and soldered the cable directly to the circuit board and I haven't had any problems since then. That said there is something definitely wrong with their cable since I'm not alone in having these issues.

 It's a shame because barring some minor but much needed changes to the design I would suggest these as an option that outperforms most other portable headphones.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is coming out of nowhere but I've come to really only like the SR-001 in theory (portable STAX? ****in awesome!). After owning them for almost 2 years I simply can't recommend them for anything but home use and maybe to accompany a laptop setup. Which means people should go for the SR-003 if they want a compact stat setup. Really the only reason for this is the ridiculously fragile cable on the SR-001. 

 I had a problem with it once and sent the whole unit off for warranty repair which took months. When I finally got it back the same cable issue occurred in about 4-5 months of moderate to light use. I was really careful after the first issue occurred and hardly ever used the thing since I got a good deal on a 2050A system. The 2nd time I had cable issues I opted to repair it myself and soldered the cable directly to the circuit board and I haven't had any problems since then. That said there is something definitely wrong with their cable since I'm not alone in having these issues.

 It's a shame because barring some minor but much needed changes to the design I would suggest these as an option that outperforms most other portable headphones._

 

However, the 003 uses the same cable as the 001, but with a different plug. I have also had to replace an 001 cable but it took a major yank to cause the problem. Still it's not super strong. I generally only use the baby Stax sitting down, i.e. not on the run and in that form of use it is hard to damage the cable. 

 Having had to throw away several sets of dynamic phones belonging to my kids after the cables went bad, usually near the plug, I can say that the cable problem is not just an electrostatic issue. Most of their wires are difficult to resolder and mostly these are $10.00 phones so I can't be bothered repairing them anyway.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ak40ozKevin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a shame because barring some minor but much needed changes to the design I would suggest these as an option that outperforms most other portable headphones._

 


 the main problem with the baby stax is still the fit issue, not everybody can handle the fat tips. I have yet heard any real complains about the SQ, but there are a lot of users complaining about the ear pressure (in their FS ad's).

 The thin ribbon cable is not that big a problem, it is not super robust but not necessary worse than a lot of IEM cables. Plus, it is user replacable.


----------



## dickbianchi

I like these, but I dont think of them as very portable, or even necessary, for on-the-go use. Best for that is the ipod itself with some decent iems, esp if they provide noise isolation (like my shures). On-the-go listening is pretty compromised to begin with, lots of noise and split attention everywhere. The best will not do me that much good. 

 I carry the stax in a small bag I adapted for them that fits into the larger bag I shleppe around most places. If I am in the office or some other low noise place, alone or mostly alone, I use them, happily. The cafeteria at school is usually quiet most mornings before my classes (no public music in SA). The students see me sitting quietly drinking coffee, listening to my stax, with those obvious earphones. They almost never come up to ask questions. I like that.

 When I am home and want to listen, I do so with big stax amp and big stax-o-phone, which I like better than the little ones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jellojoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm having some trouble with my normal bias lambdas. 

 I'm using them with a rev A SRM-1/MK II, and the right driver is making these drum tapping sounds without any input (cables disconnected or music paused). If there is music playing, I can hear it from the right driver, but there is no sound from the left driver and the tapping noise doesn't stop. The pro bias of the amp works fine, but I don't have any other normal bias phones so I can't check. Has any of you Stax gurus experienced this phenomenon? TIA._

 

Could be a number of things but it's bias related. Try disconnecting the phones from the amp and see if the problem persists. If so then there is likely some debris inside the driver and that is almost impossible to fix. They are glued shut and while they can be split open, it is very hard to get them back together again. 

 If the sound does go away instantly once they are unplugged then it is the amp and probably AC riding on top of the DC bias.


----------



## AudioCats

One question about the amping requirement of SR-Omega: 

 are they hard to drive? (comparing to the Lambda's and 950's) and what is the prefered sound signature for the amp driving it?


----------



## spritzer

They are just a tad easier to drive then the SR-007 and DC-coupled, brutally revealing is the way to go.


----------



## jellojoe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be a number of things but it's bias related. Try disconnecting the phones from the amp and see if the problem persists. If so then there is likely some debris inside the driver and that is almost impossible to fix. They are glued shut and while they can be split open, it is very hard to get them back together again. 

 If the sound does go away instantly once they are unplugged then it is the amp and probably AC riding on top of the DC bias._

 

As soon as the phones are disconnected, the bumping sounds go away. Is there anyway to check if it really is the amp?


----------



## spritzer

It's hard to do given the nature of the circuits. If you have any high voltage measurement equipment then you can check for AC on the PSU and if the diodes are working.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are just a tad easier to drive then the SR-007 and DC-coupled, brutally revealing is the way to go._

 


 thanks. Only "just a tad easier"? which means it still requires at least a 717?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks. Only "just a tad easier"? which means it still requires at least a 717?_

 

Hey! I have finally tried the modded SRD-7SB out of the Nuforce Icon, since Jason agreed I should see if it could drive the low impedance load and he'd replace it if I killed it. The Nuforce was designed to drive 4 ohm loads, just not the 1-2 ohm at very low frequencies that your modded SRD might be offering. The modded transformer with Nuforce has no trouble driving the O2 Mk2 and Jade, and I like the 5-pin XLR. 

 I look forward to getting a real amp to drive the transformer in the future. To get my pre-order EC ZDT to work properly with this box I needed to spend $525 to upgrade the ZDT output transformers to a 600:1 at the 4 ohm speaker tap, with a 16 ohm tap for headphones. Instead I'm thinking something tube hybrid but not too costly (i.e. no more than the cost to upgrade the ZDT output transformers). Any suggestions?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks. Only "just a tad easier"? which means it still requires at least a 717?_

 

Yeah but it is a much better match with the BH. That combo simply makes music with none of the "haze" most consider musicality.


----------



## AudioCats

if you want to use the EC, might as well tell them to put in a custom transformer (I think electraprint is all custom) so you will have both step-down (for dynamic headphones) and step-up (for electrostatic phones) in that one amp. It doesn't make sense to step it down in the EC only to be bumped back up in the SRD box. 

 are you sure they said 600:1? that is super high ratio, if you have them put in a 1:1 to the primary (that will be 600:600) winding, I think you can run the electrostatics off that additional winding. 

 If they don't want to make bias supply for the electrostatic phones, I can make an external box to supply the bias, 100~700V adjustable even.


----------



## spritzer

That's not ratio but rather a 600ohm:1ohm transformer. Unless Craig is on crack or something...


----------



## AudioCats

but that was to run a 4R speaker, so it can't be 600R:1R, right?

 either way, I assume a step-up winding can be added to the output trans, for driving the electrostatics. Now because it will be an add-on, it probably won't be an optimized design, but I still think it can be a lot better than EC step-down -> SRD step-up config.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Sorry, I mistyped the impedance ratio of the transformer. The ZDT is a dynamic headphone transformer coupled tube amp, so it is NOT a voltage transformer for stats. But it has 8 watt/ch speaker out to drive my stax voltage transformer or my K1000. 

 Normally the ZDT is using a 1200:16 ohm Electra-print output transformer so that an 8 ohm load on the speaker outputs wont load down the tubes too much and strain them (shouldn't damage them and he says they can tolerate no load). But if I wanted to use 4 ohm loads on the speaker output Craig said it would be better to use a Tango 600:4:8:16 multi-tap transformer, and we could use the 4 or 8 ohm tapped output for speakers, and the 16 ohm for the headphone section.

 In the end it was too much trouble to try to set up the ZDT for my <4 ohm low impedance modded stax transformer.


----------



## Rhinosaur

Avast all,

 Thought I'd post to say I bagged myself a pair of SR-Lambdas and an SRM-1/Mk2 last week, and I must say I'm loving the combo so far. I think the main thing that jumped out at me at first was the speed, it's incredible. I can definitely see why Stax have such a following around here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 A question regarding the voltage setting on the energiser though - as this was made before the UK voltage was lowered from 240V to 230V, is it better to set it to 220V or 240V? I've been running it on the 220V setting and it's been no trouble (it came set at 220V too), but I figured I'd ask just in case.

 I also figure it's time to upgrade my source to a dedicated DAC. At the moment it's connected to the analogue outs from my EMU 0404 PCI card (which I plan to use as a transport). Any recommendations in the £500-700 range or so? This question should probably go in the source forum, so let me know if I should post there instead to prevent derailing (figured I'd ask here since it's where the Stax'ers hang out). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rhinosaur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Avast all,

 Thought I'd post to say I bagged myself a pair of SR-Lambdas and an SRM-1/Mk2 last week, and I must say I'm loving the combo so far. I think the main thing that jumped out at me at first was the speed, it's incredible. I can definitely see why Stax have such a following around here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A question regarding the voltage setting on the energiser though - as this was made before the UK voltage was lowered from 240V to 230V, is it better to set it to 220V or 240V? I've been running it on the 220V setting and it's been no trouble (it came set at 220V too), but I figured I'd ask just in case.

 I also figure it's time to upgrade my source to a dedicated DAC. At the moment it's connected to the analogue outs from my EMU 0404 PCI card (which I plan to use as a transport). Any recommendations in the £500-700 range or so? This question should probably go in the source forum, so let me know if I should post there instead to prevent derailing (figured I'd ask here since it's where the Stax'ers hang out). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My PS Audio Digital Link III has good synergy with my electrostatic rig and various stats, including SR-Lambda, SR-003 and SR-007 (as well as HE60 and Jade). I like it a little better than my Apogee mini-DAC with the Stax at this point, but the Apogee mini-DAC is another good choice in your price range.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rhinosaur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question regarding the voltage setting on the energiser though - as this was made before the UK voltage was lowered from 240V to 230V, is it better to set it to 220V or 240V? I've been running it on the 220V setting and it's been no trouble (it came set at 220V too), but I figured I'd ask just in case_

 

Change it to the 240V setting - should be a safer option.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rhinosaur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Any recommendations in the £500-700 range or so?_

 

Audio-gd Reference 1. That's a bit above your price range and requires at least O2's to truly appreciate, but you wont need to buy another DAC again, ever IMO.


----------



## Lil' Knight

^ So it's the best DAC in your opinion?

 BTW, about the voltage, is there any difference between 100v and 117v? My 007t is running at 117v and I might have the 717 really soon. The back of the amp shows 100v, so I just wonder if it's fine.


----------



## fraseyboy

Are there any big sound differences between the SRM-313 and SRM-1/MK2 with the Lambda Pro's? 

 The SRM-313 appears to be much easier to find and similarly priced.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ So it's the best DAC in your opinion?_

 

The only DAC/CD player I've ever tried, albeit briefly, with Stax that was close was an Esoteric.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ So it's the best DAC in your opinion?

 BTW, about the voltage, is there any difference between 100v and 117v? My 007t is running at 117v and I might have the 717 really soon. The back of the amp shows 100v, so I just wonder if it's fine._

 

Err, yes there is. There should be some way to set the voltage for 117V inside the amp.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any big sound differences between the SRM-313 and SRM-1/MK2 with the Lambda Pro's? 

 The SRM-313 appears to be much easier to find and similarly priced._

 

Because it is worse, so yes SRM-1/MK2 is a better bet, especially one the later series with "C" serial or the rare P.P. version (with two Pro outputs). But there might be some other phones from the Lambda family that might be much better than the Lambda Pro.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ So it's the best DAC in your opinion?

 BTW, about the voltage, is there any difference between 100v and 117v? My 007t is running at 117v and I might have the 717 really soon. The back of the amp shows 100v, so I just wonder if it's fine._

 

17% higher voltage.
 Don't sound like much really. But the bias is 580v with 100v input, and hence it may now be 680v. Unsure if that is safe in the long run..

 You are stressing the components in the amplifier as well. So you should definitely look into reconfiguring the transformer or to use a voltage converter.


----------



## Lil' Knight

So is there anything like a switch in the amp so that I can change to voltage?


----------



## spritzer

You have to rewire the transformer and perhaps add some wires/fix the windings. It varies from amp to amp just how determined they were about keeping the amps 100v only.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Stax srm 717 and 007T line voltage settings ( I copied this down when I first obtained my 717...from a fellow staxen)
 I bolded the info you need for the 115/120 conversion....if your stax amp has the jumpers...it is an easy switch! Small neddle nose pliers make it a breeze...I used what are called mosquito clamps.
 Couldn't find the exact pdf but typed them up for you and others to copy and paste...it has been posted before
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Line Voltage input for srm 717 and 007T
 The power supply transformer has 7 taps on the input side which are :
 not counting:Yellow = common (winding 1)
 1. White =same as yellow (winding 1)
 2. *Green* = 100v tap "
 3. Purple = 120v tap "
 4. *Black* = common (winding 2)
 5. Brown = 100v tap "
 6. *Blue * = 120 v tap "


 Six jumper bars are used to set voltage numbered also 1 thru 6

 1 = 100v
*2 = 120v*
 3 = 100v or 220/240v
*4 = 120v*
 5 = 220/240v
*6 = 100v or 120v*

 100v are set with one bar each at 1, 3, 6

*120v are set with one bar each at 2, 4, 6

*


----------



## tako_tsubo

So does anyone else use a tube preamp into the srm717!
 Since no one joined in, I though well everyone must think it is all placebo.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I definitely hear some great improvements and definitely worth the effort.


----------



## Duggeh

I have my 717 set to power amp mode so that I can use the remote control on my speaker amplifier. I can't say that I noticed any benefit to the change. But then it's a comparitively humble NAD C352.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Thanks for the info. Fortunately, the amp is already set to 117v. Can't wait to compare it with my 007t.


----------



## Rhinosaur

Thanks for all the replies, greatly appreciated. I've set the energiser to 240V and it's certainly running cooler now, which I imagine is a good thing.

 Time to do some research on the DACs I think. One thing for certain is that I don't think I'll be able to spring for a pair of O2s anytime soon.


----------



## fishpatrol

AudioCats said, regarding the SRM-001:
  Quote:


 The thin ribbon cable is not that big a problem, it is not super robust but not necessary worse than a lot of IEM cables. Plus, it is user replacable. 
 

Replaceable with the same cable, or is someone doing upgrades? I'd only look this way if my phones started having issues, but I'd be interested to see a beefed-up version.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rhinosaur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for all the replies, greatly appreciated. I've set the energiser to 240V and it's certainly running cooler now, which I imagine is a good thing._

 

Just to add something. Do you have a volt meter? If so you can simply measure what comes out of the wall and set your amp to whatever is closer. In my house for example, it's usually around 220 V although it should be 230 V.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax srm 717 and 007T line voltage settings ( I copied this down when I first obtained my 717...from a fellow staxen)
 I bolded the info you need for the 115/120 conversion....if your stax amp has the jumpers...it is an easy switch! Small neddle nose pliers make it a breeze...I used what are called mosquito clamps.
 Couldn't find the exact pdf but typed them up for you and others to copy and paste...it has been posted before
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Line Voltage input for srm 717 and 007T
 The power supply transformer has 7 taps on the input side which are :
 not counting:Yellow = common (winding 1)
 1. White =same as yellow (winding 1)
 2. *Green* = 100v tap "
 3. Purple = 120v tap "
 4. *Black* = common (winding 2)
 5. Brown = 100v tap "
 6. *Blue * = 120 v tap "


 Six jumper bars are used to set voltage numbered also 1 thru 6

 1 = 100v
*2 = 120v*
 3 = 100v or 220/240v
*4 = 120v*
 5 = 220/240v
*6 = 100v or 120v*

 100v are set with one bar each at 1, 3, 6

*120v are set with one bar each at 2, 4, 6

*_

 

My country's AC voltage is at 230V and I've currently set my 717 to 220v. Right now the Stax 717 feels hot after operating for about 2 hours. Just wondering if I'm to change to to run at 240v, would the unit be cooler?

 The current metal bars are at 3 & 5, how should I configure to run it at 240v instead of 220v?


----------



## doping panda

Hi, I'm about to get my first pair of Stax soon. It's a pair of normal bias Lambdas with a SRD-7SB and a T-amp. What should I expect sound wise? From impressions, it seems as if the Lambdas sound like a super K500/K501 which would be very nice for me because the K500 is my favorite headphone at the moment. Also, should I keep the T-Amp or should I buy a used speaker amp to power the Lambdas?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doping panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I'm about to get my first pair of Stax soon. It's a pair of normal bias Lambdas with a SRD-7SB and a T-amp. What should I expect sound wise? From impressions, it seems as if the Lambdas sound like a super K500/K501 which would be very nice for me because the K500 is my favorite headphone at the moment. Also, should I keep the T-Amp or should I buy a used speaker amp to power the Lambdas?_

 

you should let me know how it sounds, because I have the exact same setup, without the T amp. I was told that I should get one though.

 I love my stax, but I'll let others describe what to expect. Its too late for me to wax poetic.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You have to rewire the transformer and perhaps add some wires/fix the windings. It varies from amp to amp just how determined they were about keeping the amps 100v only._

 

with respect to tako_tsubo's post and other people's wondering about a tube pre-amp driving the 717 could you please take a look at a product and post your comments on it?

 If not anything else the documentation is excellent and it attempts an engineering explanation of why tubes sound better than solid state amps and it also provides the user with a way to judge for himself and to confirm or reject their claims.

 It does not address hybrids such as the BHSE in which tubes are at the final stage.

iZotope, Inc - Audio Processing Technology and Plug-Ins for Pro Tools, VST, MAS, Audio Unit, and DirectX

 the above is a lite version of a group of professional software mastering tools but the documentation is very complete and simple to understand and does not require an electrical engineering background.


 When I tried it in conjunction with the 717 I understood why there is a difference of opinion between Kevin Gilmore and Mikhail that has not been resolved by Headfier's that listened to both amps and why there are people that swear on Mikhail's amp even though the design is a copy of older public designs and even though good engineering practices are not being followed as you yourself have identified in your posts at an earlier time.

 I can even imagine why Woo Audio owners may be perfectly happy with their amp (Kevin's design also but not as powerful or as fast as the BHSE).


----------



## spritzer

Simply saying that tubes sound like X and SS sounds like Y is absurd and couldn't be further from the truth. Regardless this is a common "fact" so stuff like that exists. There is some truth to this as most tube and SS gear is badly designed and thus has a strong character of its own. Designers tend to stick with well established circuits and don't try to break the mold. Just look at how many 6SN7/300B amps there are and the same SS circuits used over and over again. 

 As for the ES-1 then I don't believe there is any debate any more. Even the most expensive ES-2's all use the same Stax SRX circuit with beyond horrible build quality, the cheapest available parts and some very dodgy "engineering". I do believe the circuit has some life left as a budget DIY amp so I've begun building a prototype mini ES-1 with 6S4A's as output tubes. The driver tubes I'm using are ECC83's and ECC99's since that's what I have on hand.


----------



## malldian

Anyone have an extra 2 thumbscrews for a SRD7 adapter? Mine didn't make the move from my dorm somehow..


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have an extra 2 thumbscrews for a SRD7 adapter? Mine didn't make the move from my dorm somehow.._

 

I gave mine to audiocats after they were replaced with Vampire banana jacks, but maybe he might wish to sell a couple if you PM him?


----------



## AudioCats

I still have them somewhere, PM me your address and I can put a couple of them in a padded envelop and send over. 

 @ no charge, you just need to thank Larry (as these were from his SRD box).


----------



## malldian

Thank you sir. Now to find a suitable replacement for a Lambda headband ($130 dollars is not happening) and I will be set to enjoy my first Stax rig.


----------



## kinsale

I posted this in the main headphone section but i may get a better response here.

 Hi all,

 i've been really happy listening to my STAX SR-X Mark3 for a few months now. Even though they are old they sound quite amazing. My system is Laptop-USBDAC-Qinpu Q2-SRD-7 - SRX-Mk3.

 My question is where am I on the headphone scale? I know the newer STAX will probably blow mine away but on the overall scale what is better? Which dynamic headphones would sound better? How about Koss Electrostatic? 
 I'm really just looking for an idea of where to go for better sound.
 I'm not able to get to any of the meets and there really are no places near me to audition phones. I'm reliant on recommendations.

 Thanks
 Ian


----------



## krmathis

kinsale. Nice Stax system indeed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 I have not listened to all the highest regarded moving coil headphones, but of those I have heard only the AKG K1000 surpass the SR-X/MK3.
 As far as electrostatics go there are quite a lot of rivals though, including most of the newer Stax'en. But since you already own an SRD-7 the most obvious 'phone to try out would be the SR-Lambda, as it is plug-and-play.

 Or go Pro bias, if your budget allow investments in a new(er) energizer/transformer to go with it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I posted this in the main headphone section but i may get a better response here.

 Hi all,

 i've been really happy listening to my STAX SR-X Mark3 for a few months now. Even though they are old they sound quite amazing. My system is Laptop-USBDAC-Qinpu Q2-SRD-7 - SRX-Mk3.

 My question is where am I on the headphone scale? I know the newer STAX will probably blow mine away but on the overall scale what is better? Which dynamic headphones would sound better? How about Koss Electrostatic? 
 I'm really just looking for an idea of where to go for better sound.
 I'm not able to get to any of the meets and there really are no places near me to audition phones. I'm reliant on recommendations.

 Thanks
 Ian_

 

I have a variety of Stax and Koss phones including 2 SRXMk3's and feel that the SRX have a place in my collection. Often when I put them on I am impressed by how good they are compared to later and more expensive models. However after a while I often put them down for other phones that work better with a wider range of music. 

 If your music is fairly bassy it will sound good with these phones. If it is somewhat lean on the bass side, it will be less pleasant to listen to since the SRX's are somewhat bass shy. While they sound detailed and analytical, compared to the later Lambda modes and especially the Omegas they lack micro detail. Of course I don't think any phones can match the Omegas in this regard. 

 The Lambdas and even Sigmas will give you more bass. I often switch my low bias Sigma for the SRX3 because even though it lacks some detail it has a more ear pleasing tonal quality even compared to the Lambdas.

 As to where the SRX3 fits in the scale of things, one could go on ad nauseum. In simple terms I would say they are a fun phone, whose virtues are often immediately apparent. However they are a bit too bass shy for general use. But if you don't mind equalizing the sound to push up the bass they could be general use phones. 



 In other respects they compete well with just about all other phones


----------



## Tachikoma

Personally, I never felt that the SR-Xmk3 was truly bass-deficient. Even though it doesn't go very low, the bass it does produce has a very solid feel behind it (relative to other electrostats).

 Whether the later phones will blow them away depends entirely on your tastes - I haven't encountered a lambda I liked better than the SR-Xmk3/SR-5NB ... until you factor in comfort.


----------



## kinsale

I must admit I do find them a little bass-lite. Also the comfort is a bit of an issue. I do love them though. 

 If I was to keep the same Energizer how are the Lambda headphones? Is it worth it to step up to the SR202 with the amplifier?? I see one for sale for $400. I got my SRX-Mk3 for $150, will the comfort and the bass improvement be worth the $400??

 Thanks to all of you for your guidance.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think the SR-Lambda sound better than the SR-X Mk3, and should be good with your SRD-7 if you have a decent amplifier. I did find the SRM 1 Mk2 Pro to sound better than the SRD-7 with Nuforce Icon amp, and better than my SRD-X transformer as well. I don't know that an SR-202 will be as good as the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro was.


----------



## edstrelow

I just got an SRM1 MK2 amp in the mail from the UK after an epic hassle with the seller. Still it works, even plugging 117 volts into the amp, which was supposedly set for 240 volts, it actually runs. I wouldn't have thought that even possible,.

 Unfortunately some previous owner bypassed the plug arrangement that Stax employed to allow voltage changes. He unsoldered all the connections and simply attached the first (blue) wire to the input of the socket. 

 I assume that one or more of the other five or so wires is the 117 volt wire.

 Anyone have any experience with these?


----------



## AudioCats

I would recommand using a large step-up power transformer, it will serve as a power conditioner/isolator (which can reduce the SRM1MK2's harshness).


----------



## fraseyboy

What's the going rate for an SRD7 MK2 these days?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the going rate for an SRD7 MK2 these days?_

 

$300 - $400. Mine was $400, but I found one for Blutarsky that was either $310 or $350, I forget which.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$300 - $400. Mine was $400, but I found one for Blutarsky that was either $310 or $350, I forget which._

 

It looks like I've spotted a bargain.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would recommand using a large step-up power transformer, it will serve as a power conditioner/isolator (which can reduce the SRM1MK2's harshness)._

 

I appreciate the suggestion but for the moment I don't want the additional electrical stage. 

 I have opened up the amp and my other SRM1Mk2 which however utilizes the plug. The recent acquisition looks the same in its wiring, the transformer has the same wires and color coding except that nothing is wired to the plug/socket setup. (Well actually the blue and one power lead are joined at the socket but go nowhere else) I now see that the grey and purple wire are joined together. In both amps, the yellow goes to the fuse holder.








 Since I don't have a plug I don't want to copy the connections of the other amp. I just want the basic wiring needed to accept 117 volts.

 I was trying to search this thread for info about how to reconnect this transformer for 117 volts with no success. Anyone have information about this or diagrams of the transformer or the SRM1Mk2?


----------



## spritzer

If the gray and purple are serial connected then the amp is set up for 240v use. The transformer has two primaries with a 0-100-117v taps and for 117v use the 0v and 117v taps should be parallel connected. Look back a few dozen pages and there is a post by me about changing the voltages on a SRM-1 Mk2. I did it at the plug but the guide is based on the wire colors so you can use it. This picture is from that post and shows how the plug should have been wired.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the gray and purple are serial connected then the amp is set up for 240v use. The transformer has two primaries with a 0-100-117v taps and for 117v use the 0v and 117v taps should be parallel connected. Look back a few dozen pages and there is a post by me about changing the voltages on a SRM-1 Mk2. I did it at the plug but the guide is based on the wire colors so you can use it. This picture is from that post and shows how the plug should have been wired. 




_

 

Thanks for your help. If I can get a Stax plug from someone I will wire the socket up as you show. For the the time being though I can't use it that way.

 If I understand your instructions on P195 correctly, to run 117 volts, solder or link the AC to the blue and purple wires then solder/link the white and grey wires together.


 FOLLOW UP

 I just finished doing the above and it seems to work fine. Thanks again Birgir. I even kept an eye out for capacitor shock.

 I now have a B and an A series SRM1Mk2 and I can't seem to hear any obvious difference between them.

 I once had the C series SRM1Mk2 PP amp but returned it because it had no low bias output. At the time I only had low bias phones so the amp was useless. That was the first dedicated Stax headphone amp I owned although I did have, and still have, the SRA 12S preamp/headphone amp.


----------



## chinesekiwi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like I've spotted a bargain._

 

You spotted it!? Hey!


----------



## chinesekiwi

Anyway, any compared Lambda Pros vs. some dynamic headphones?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, any compared Lambda Pros vs. some dynamic headphones?_

 

Most followers of this thread have abandoned dynamics.

 It is just possible you coud get better sound than the best stat phones with one of the best dynamics with a super amp, but it would have a different pattern of strengths than a stat phone and cost as much as the best stat phone and amp. I just don't see how you can get the transparency of a stat phone with its large diaphragm from a dynamic. The mass of a dynamic driver is orders of magnitude greater than a stat and that inevitably compromises the sound as does the smaller radiating area.

 I have a number of Lambda pros including the 404, Nova Classic and just recently the original Lambda Signature ( but not the original Lambda Pro) and any of them driven from a half-way decent amp (the Lambdas aren't too hard to drive) or transformer is going to beat the vast majority of dynamics in resolution of detail and and overall clarity. But you have to be aware that the tonal characterstics of some of these phones may not match your music. Eg. the Signature has a very pronounced peak in the upper midrange, but also great clarity there.

 BTW, I spent three years in Christchurch New Zealand. It's a really fine place.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your help. If I can get a Stax plug from someone I will wire the socket up as you show. For the the time being though I can't use it that way.

 If I understand your instructions on P195 correctly, to run 117 volts, solder or link the AC to the blue and purple wires then solder/link the white and grey wires together.


 FOLLOW UP

 I just finished doing the above and it seems to work fine. Thanks again Birgir. I even kept an eye out for capacitor shock._

 

I believe the plug was made for Stax so it is impossible to find. Since I know what the plug connects I just wire up the sockets like that and then use small jumper cables leads.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most followers of this thread have abandoned dynamics._

 







 Most maybe, but certainly not all!


----------



## slwiser

double post..due to internet not updating the way I am used too.


----------



## slwiser

^Not me either.....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most followers of this thread have abandoned dynamics._

 

Most...
 I personally went through a couple handfuls of electrostatics before I landed on a moving coil one. Still own a couple of electrostatics as well, but they get little listening time.


----------



## feckn_eejit

SR-X Mk.III = the perfect headphone from ~120hz to ~14,000hz
 SR-X Mk.III/Pro = the perfect headphone, full stop.


----------



## spritzer

Put a nice PC-OCC cable on them and they are even better.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, any compared Lambda Pros vs. some dynamic headphones?_

 

I've compared four of the Lambdas to a bunch of dynamics. I think the MS-2i comes close to the Lambdas but lacks some fine details.


----------



## veloaudio

So my 252a/SR-003 combo hums quite a bit unless I touch the 252a chassis so I assume it is some sort of grounding issue. I have a 717/O2 mk1 setup on the way and I'm wondering if the 717 would benefit from a ground wire (chassis ground to the typical US ground lug) or from something like the Acoustic Revive RCC-24 Ground Conditioner?

 I searched this thread and noticed a few people using some Acoustic Revive gear, anyone have experience with them and Stax amps?


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most...
 I personally went through a couple handfuls of electrostatics before I landed on a moving coil one. Still own a couple of electrostatics as well, but they get little listening time._

 

are you referring to your K-1000s?
 are the electrostatic or the moving coils phones that get little listening time?

 By the way,

 my congadulations on Norway's clear and undisputed win in the Eurovision. Including the judge's opinion will help upgrade the event and place the required emphasis on composers again and away from just show business.

 same goes for our friend "spritzer" with Iceland winning 2nd place 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 May I add myself to the few people here in the Stax thread that may think "the jury is still out" on the pro's and con's of electrostatics and dynamics.


----------



## krmathis

^ That my electrostatics (SR-007BL and SR-404) get little listening time compared to my moving coil (K1000).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ That my electrostatics (SR-007BL and SR-404) get little listening time compared to my moving coil (K1000)._

 

Do you use an amp of a transformer to run the stats?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Put a nice PC-OCC cable on them and they are even better._

 

Hmm........... well seeing as how I haven't touched my SR-404s since the Mk.III/Pros showed up............ but seriously, guess I should just buy an extension, snip the female end, and solder the leads directly to the drivers?


----------



## Tachikoma

Yep, that will do it. Make sure to build some kind of strain relief though, or you'll end up needing to resolder those connections over and over and over again >.>


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ That my electrostatics (SR-007BL and SR-404) get little listening time compared to my moving coil (K1000)._

 

krmathis:

 looking at your footer. You use either the Signature or the Beta 22 with your phones (not, somehow, together)? How would you characterise the "sonic" difference?

 are your k1000s and beta22 balanced or single ended?

 I am very curious about the K1000s and have "almost" bought a couple of pairs. Hope to hear them when I go back go the US. (Also curious about the Isabellina, having read thru the review and long thread about the Isabella, posted by Skylab.)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm........... well seeing as how I haven't touched my SR-404s since the Mk.III/Pros showed up............ but seriously, guess I should just buy an extension, snip the female end, and solder the leads directly to the drivers?_

 

An extension cord is the way too go. The strain relief is simple enough, just use some heatshrink and secure the cable in place with some zip-ties. Be sure to cover the drivers with something sturdy like cardboard when soldering near them since a stray drop of flux can destroy them.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you use an amp of a transformer to run the stats?_

 

Yes, I use my SRD-7 Pro to run them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis:

 looking at your footer. You use either the Signature or the Beta 22 with your phones (not, somehow, together)? How would you characterise the "sonic" difference?

 are your k1000s and beta22 balanced or single ended?

 I am very curious about the K1000s and have "almost" bought a couple of pairs. Hope to hear them when I go back go the US. (Also curious about the Isabellina, having read thru the review and long thread about the Isabella, posted by Skylab.)_

 

Correct. I use my Signature 30.2 and β22, alternate between them, to drive my 3 'phones. Sonic difference -> The β22 are more powerful (control and punch), while the Signature 30.2 and warmer, more natural and "fun". Both stunning amplifiers!

 The K1000 are balanced (they all are). My β22 can be run balanced, as its a 4-board, but I currently run it unbalanced (single-ended). Since I no longer own a balanced source.


----------



## Col12

Hi there (sorry am new here). Thought this would be a good place to ask this. I know this has probably been asked before but wonder if anyone could be so kind as to help. I recently bought a pair of Stax SRX III phones. I quite like them but find them a bit shouty in sound quailty, like there is a bit of a peak at around 2-3 KHz. Also I know they are supraaural and the driver are supposed to be very cloe to the ears but the pads are very shallow and the drivers sit a bit close for my liking. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the distance? Possibly by changing pads? And would changing pads possibly alter the balance a bit (getting rid of some of the shoutiness?) 

 I read that the SR007 pads fit but they are pretty expensive. Might these give me what I want in terms of increaseing the distance the driver is from the ear and changing the sound? And are there any other options pads wise at all apart from the standard pads? (hopefully something cheaper than the SR007 pads!)

 thanks,
 Colin


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So my 252a/SR-003 combo hums quite a bit unless I touch the 252a chassis so I assume it is some sort of grounding issue. I have a 717/O2 mk1 setup on the way and I'm wondering if the 717 would benefit from a ground wire (chassis ground to the typical US ground lug) or from something like the Acoustic Revive RCC-24 Ground Conditioner?

 I searched this thread and noticed a few people using some Acoustic Revive gear, anyone have experience with them and Stax amps?_

 

Anyone have any thoughts/experience with using chassis grounds on Stax amps?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Col12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi there (sorry am new here). Thought this would be a good place to ask this. I know this has probably been asked before but wonder if anyone could be so kind as to help. I recently bought a pair of Stax SRX III phones. I quite like them but find them a bit shouty in sound quailty, like there is a bit of a peak at around 2-3 KHz. Also I know they are supraaural and the driver are supposed to be very cloe to the ears but the pads are very shallow and the drivers sit a bit close for my liking. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the distance? Possibly by changing pads? And would changing pads possibly alter the balance a bit (getting rid of some of the shoutiness?) 

 I read that the SR007 pads fit but they are pretty expensive. Might these give me what I want in terms of increaseing the distance the driver is from the ear and changing the sound? And are there any other options pads wise at all apart from the standard pads? (hopefully something cheaper than the SR007 pads!)

 thanks,
 Colin_

 

These phones can be pretty nice with some material but don't have enough bass for general use. That may be why they sound "shouty."

 I don't know what pads you have. Some people have a foam pad which is very flat. The regular leatherette pads give a bit more distance. They can be obtained from Audiocubes2 for about $30.00.

 For the cost of SR007 pads you might very well consider another set of older Stax phones such as the SR3 or SR5 which give more space to the drivers. For a bit more you might get the low bias Lambda. 







 You might even want to try the current pro bias SR003 which will run ok on a low bias source. It's almost an IEM but with a very much more relaxed sound than the SRXIII


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have any thoughts/experience with using chassis grounds on Stax amps?_

 

I have personally never had to ground a Stax headphone amp. The only separate ground wire in my system is between a turntable and a Stax pre-amp.

 I wonder if you don't have a general ground problem higher up in the system which you are only aware of with headphones.

 Otherwise I wonder if your DC power supply is OK. Maybe just reversing the plug would help. I assume it is some kind of walwart.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-X Mk.III = the perfect headphone from ~120hz to ~14,000hz
 SR-X Mk.III/Pro = the perfect headphone, full stop._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Put a nice PC-OCC cable on them and they are even better._

 

Too bad you can't upgrade the driver of the SRXIII, normal or pro, as you can with the Sigma to make a Sigma/404.

 My recabled SRXII is nice but seems a bit coarse.


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have personally never had to ground a Stax headphone amp. The only separate ground wire in my system is between a turntable and a Stax pre-amp.

 I wonder if you don't have a general ground problem higher up in the system which you are only aware of with headphones.

 Otherwise I wonder if your DC power supply is OK. Maybe just reversing the plug would help. I assume it is some kind of walwart._

 

My house was built in 1946, however the circuit that my headphone system is plugged into is a newer grounded circuit (but is not dedicated). I've never had a problem with any other amps plugged into the same circuit. The walwart I'm using with the 252 is a 12V 0.5A Radioshack model.


----------



## Col12

Hi Ed. Thanks very much for you help/advice. I am pretty sure I have the standard SRX III Pads, - they look like the stock pads, - though they seem pretty thin/Flat to me, - almost like pancakes! something a bit more plump (giving a bit more clearance) would be better for me I reckon. So you reckon the Audiocubes SRX III pads are a good bet? ( a bit thicker?)
 I think you are right, - the combination of not much bass with a peak at around 3 KHzmid gives the SRX III a bit of a shouty balance to my ears, - the peak at 3 Khz also reduces the perceived treble extension IMO. I already have some NB Lamdbas , - I far prefer these, - my favourite Stax phones. Also have have some NB Gammas which are not bad but not as good as the Lambdas. Have some Lambda Pros too but am not so keen on them (they are a bit too clinical sounding).
 I bought the SRX IIIs because of I was thinking of also finding some Gamma Pros and doing the SRX III Pro conversion, but this "shouty" sound makes me think twice as to whether it would be worthwhile for me. I assume the Pro version (although having more extenstion at each end) has a very similar tone. Perhaps the shouty sound is due to the manner the SRX IIIs couple with my particular ears! As from what I have read most poeple love them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These phones can be pretty nice with some material but don't have enough bass for general use. That may be why they sound "shouty."

 I don't know what pads you have. Some people have a foam pad which is very flat. The regular leatherette pads give a bit more distance. They can be obtained from Audiocubes2 for about $30.00.

 For the cost of SR007 pads you might very well consider another set of older Stax phones such as the SR3 or SR5 which give more space to the drivers. For a bit more you might get the low bias Lambda. 






 You might even want to try the current pro bias SR003 which will run ok on a low bias source. It's almost an IEM but with a very much more relaxed sound than the SRXIII_


----------



## fraseyboy

I just scored some perfect condition, barely used (>15 hours probably) Stax Lambda Pro's, an SRD7 MK 2, and brand new unused earpads for $410USD.

 This is a good deal, yes?


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Col12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought the SRX IIIs because of I was thinking of also finding some Gamma Pros and doing the SRX III Pro conversion, but this "shouty" sound makes me think twice as to whether it would be worthwhile for me. I assume the Pro version (although having more extenstion at each end) has a very similar tone. Perhaps the shouty sound is due to the manner the SRX IIIs couple with my particular ears! As from what I have read most poeple love them._

 

I'm a big SR-X Mk.III fan and have both the normal and pro bias versions... the pro bias version is definitely a little less edgy overall and of course has considerably improved extension in the low and high frequency extremes. It's a fantastic *MONITOR* headphone... I have never heard them in any rig other than my own so I have no clue how they'd respond to lesser amplification or source equipment... I presume quite poorly...

 I can understand the "shouty" moniker being given to the normal bias version as they are simply all about the midrange... it's a very fast, immediate, up front in your face presentation with heaps of PRaT. Sennheiser HD-650 fans need not apply. Not sure what you are using as a source but that could be a considerable part of it...


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An extension cord is the way too go. The strain relief is simple enough, just use some heatshrink and secure the cable in place with some zip-ties. Be sure to cover the drivers with something sturdy like cardboard when soldering near them since a stray drop of flux can destroy them._

 

Gotta admit I'm rather hesitant to bugger around with a genuine pair of SR-X Mk.III/Pro...........


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just scored some perfect condition, barely used (>15 hours probably) Stax Lambda Pro's, an SRD7 MK 2, and brand new unused earpads for $410USD.

 This is a good deal, yes?_

 

You basically bought an SRD-7 Mk2 for $410 and got the Lambda Pro and ear pads for free.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just scored some perfect condition, barely used (>15 hours probably) Stax Lambda Pro's, an SRD7 MK 2, and brand new unused earpads for $410USD.

 This is a good deal, yes?_

 

Saw that auction too, according to the pictures I think it is a good deal


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Saw that auction too, according to the pictures I think it is a good deal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

to really appreciate electrostatics, one has to listen to classical unamplified music such as the collaboration 
 of the Mona Lisa (3 soprano group) and Gracia (3 violin players) in a Gothic Style cathedral.

 Is this right Adam?

 but when the Music is really good such as with the Hungarian group band NOX it is a bliss no matter what phones you have on.


----------



## Col12

Many thanks for that.
 Yes you are right the SRX III is very up front. But actually I am getting used to it with increased listening. The presentation is pretty forward and in your face like you say, and is a big change from the Lambdas I am used to (for example).
 Just curious (don't know if you would know), - what is the advantage of putting on SR007 pads on the SRX IIIs? (am thinking about buying those pads but they are pretty expensive!), - apart from comfort, - does it change the sound at all for the better?

 Many thanks,
 Colin


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm a big SR-X Mk.III fan and have both the normal and pro bias versions... the pro bias version is definitely a little less edgy overall and of course has considerably improved extension in the low and high frequency extremes. It's a fantastic *MONITOR* headphone... I have never heard them in any rig other than my own so I have no clue how they'd respond to lesser amplification or source equipment... I presume quite poorly...

 I can understand the "shouty" moniker being given to the normal bias version as they are simply all about the midrange... it's a very fast, immediate, up front in your face presentation with heaps of PRaT. Sennheiser HD-650 fans need not apply. Not sure what you are using as a source but that could be a considerable part of it..._


----------



## padam

Apart from the much better comfort, smeggy wrote it increases the soundstage and the bass.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post3557613


----------



## Col12

Thanks Adam!,
 That sounds like good sound improvements to me. Looks like I might have to shell out for SR007 pads. The extra comfort would be nice too.

 Are they any other option you know of at all? (pad wise) or am just stuck between the choice of either the SR007 pads or the Standard SRX III pads?

 Cheers again,
 Colin

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Apart from the much better comfort, smeggy wrote it increases the soundstage and the bass.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post3557613_


----------



## bjarnetv

it seems you would have to make some kind of baffle extention to fit the 007 pads, similar to the wood adapter smeggy made.


----------



## saisunil

Hi,

 I don't know if it belongs in this thread ...
 Just finished the Stax Stax 007 Mark II Review 

Stax SR 007 Mark II Heaphones Review

 Cheers
 Sunil.


----------



## Col12

Good point! thanks for highlighting that, - looks like I am stuck with the standard SRX III pads for a while at least unless I can make some sort of adaptor to fit the SR007 pads.

 Cheers,
 Colin

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it seems you would have to make some kind of baffle extention to fit the 007 pads, similar to the wood adapter smeggy made._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gotta admit I'm rather hesitant to bugger around with a genuine pair of SR-X Mk.III/Pro..........._

 

I wouldn't do it since it takes roughly the same work to transplant Gamma Pro drivers into a normal bias housing. There are thousands of the normal bias phones out there but the Pro is very rare... That said I'm going to rip apart my nr.10 of 1000 SR-404LE as soon as I get it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saisunil* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 I don't know if it belongs in this thread ...
 Just finished the Stax Stax 007 Mark II Review 

Stax SR 007 Mark II Heaphones Review

 Cheers
 Sunil._

 

Thanks for the review and not buying that burnin crap that Yama's has been pushing. We know for sure why the phones sound different and no amount of burn in is going to block the port Stax put in or decrease the height of the earpads, which Stax increased over the Mk1 and adds an etch to the midrange. 

 For the record the older pads are much softer then the new ones and it's not just due to the new leather, the foam inside the pads is also denser. I'm comparing the two on my Mk1 now and the thicker leather does add a slight kick to the bass but I find them to be less comfortable due to the weaker elastic used in the arc assembly on the Mk1. On the Mk2 (or A as they are known in Japan) 

 Also the tubes are very easy to change and the instructions can be found here on the site. There are 4 pots per channel, two are used to balance out the two triode sections of each output tube while the other two are to adjust gain and offset. Some of the newer 007tII amps are a bit different since they use 8FQ7's and not the 6FQ7's Stax have used since the 1960's. The filament voltage is different so 6FQ7's (and naturally 6CG7's) can't be used in those amps.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just scored some perfect condition, barely used (>15 hours probably) Stax Lambda Pro's, an SRD7 MK 2, and brand new unused earpads for $410USD.

 This is a good deal, yes?_

 

Nice deal indeed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 With the inflated SRD-7MK2 prices you basically got the SR-Lambda Pro for free. Enjoy!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Col12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ed. Thanks very much for you help/advice. I am pretty sure I have the standard SRX III Pads, - they look like the stock pads, - though they seem pretty thin/Flat to me, - almost like pancakes! something a bit more plump (giving a bit more clearance) would be better for me I reckon. So you reckon the Audiocubes SRX III pads are a good bet? ( a bit thicker?)
 I think you are right, - the combination of not much bass with a peak at around 3 KHzmid gives the SRX III a bit of a shouty balance to my ears, - the peak at 3 Khz also reduces the perceived treble extension IMO. I already have some NB Lamdbas , - I far prefer these, - my favourite Stax phones. Also have have some NB Gammas which are not bad but not as good as the Lambdas. Have some Lambda Pros too but am not so keen on them (they are a bit too clinical sounding).
 I bought the SRX IIIs because of I was thinking of also finding some Gamma Pros and doing the SRX III Pro conversion, but this "shouty" sound makes me think twice as to whether it would be worthwhile for me. I assume the Pro version (although having more extenstion at each end) has a very similar tone. Perhaps the shouty sound is due to the manner the SRX IIIs couple with my particular ears! As from what I have read most poeple love them._

 

My fairly recent SRXIII pads are a little bit plump. Certainly not flat as pancakes. Possibly you need new pads ($29.00).




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Thanks for the review and not buying that burnin crap that Yama's has been pushing. We know for sure why the phones sound different and no amount of burn in is going to block the port Stax put in or decrease the height of the earpads, which Stax increased over the Mk1 and adds an etch to the midrange. 

 For the record the older pads are much softer then the new ones and it's not just due to the new leather, the foam inside the pads is also denser. I'm comparing the two on my Mk1 now and the thicker leather does add a slight kick to the bass but I find them to be less comfortable due to the weaker elastic used in the arc assembly on the Mk1. On the Mk2 (or A as they are known in Japan) 

 ._

 

I agree that the height of the pads is a problem. Just pressing in in the 007A seems to smooth out the frequency response. Possibly one needs some way to flatten these pads.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree that the height of the pads is a problem. Just pressing in in the 007A seems to smooth out the frequency response. Possibly one needs some way to flatten these pads._

 

That's something we call the spring mod, invented by me.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't do it since it takes roughly the same work to transplant Gamma Pro drivers into a normal bias housing. There are thousands of the normal bias phones out there but the Pro is very rare... That said I'm going to rip apart my nr.10 of 1000 SR-404LE as soon as I get it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice low serial number SR-404LE!!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice low serial number SR-404LE!!_

 

Yup... great for parts.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just scored some perfect condition, barely used (>15 hours probably) Stax Lambda Pro's, an SRD7 MK 2, and brand new unused earpads for $410USD.

 This is a good deal, yes?_

 

PS: With some EQ to bring out the mids from their midrange suck-out, the Lambda Pro sound pretty good. A tube speaker amp, or tube pre-amp or buffer may help that as well, depending on how it is tuned.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's something we call the spring mod, invented by me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did the spring mod and it helps. I think that these phones could use something more though.

 I have often though that some or most of the break in reported with many phones after long period of use were as likely due to pad break in as anything else.


----------



## PhaedrusX

nevermind...sorted.


----------



## malldian

Anyone have good DIY solutions to a replacement headband (the actual frame)? I might be working towards something like that soon, drawing some plans up when I have some time. I would love to borrow from the AKG240 headband but we will see.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't do it since it takes roughly the same work to transplant Gamma Pro drivers into a normal bias housing. There are thousands of the normal bias phones out there but the Pro is very rare..._

 

mm guess I better hunt for a pair of alfa/gamma pro drivers then... Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That said I'm going to rip apart my nr.10 of 1000 SR-404LE as soon as I get it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

yeah well you're crazy and a lot richer than me!  seriously though 1000 SR-404LEs being made and how many real SR-X Mk.III/Pros have we seen...........? 

 I would love to hear a pair of SR-4070 some time, might be more up my street than the SR-007...


----------



## edstrelow

Some years back Kevin Gilmore acknowledged having 2 pairs of SRXIII pros. He didn't think they were that good but he wouldn't sell them either.


----------



## feckn_eejit

I have heard the SR-007Mk1 with SRM-007t and ES-1... very impressive but not engaging, did not get my toe tapping... would be interesting to hear with a worthy transformer box, or of course BHSE...


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PS: With some EQ to bring out the mids from their midrange suck-out, the Lambda Pro sound pretty good. A tube speaker amp, or tube pre-amp or buffer may help that as well, depending on how it is tuned._

 

Oh really? I was under the impression that the Lambda's had very nice up-front mids. Not sure where I got that idea from.

 Well I don't have a tube speaker amp, but I think my Little Dot MK2 can work as a pre-amp. H120 > DAC > LD MK2 > Speaker Amp > SRD-7 > Lambda's?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have heard the SR-007Mk1 with SRM-007t and ES-1... very impressive but not engaging, did not get my toe tapping... would be interesting to hear with a worthy transformer box, or of course BHSE..._

 

It is also my impression when pairing the 007 with 007t, kinda sleepy sound. However, the 717 does a better job providing moar power for the 007. Of course it doesn't have the liquid sound like that of the 007t. Not sure about the ES1 though.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh really? I was under the impression that the Lambda's had very nice up-front mids. Not sure where I got that idea from.

 Well I don't have a tube speaker amp, but I think my Little Dot MK2 can work as a pre-amp. H120 > DAC > LD MK2 > Speaker Amp > SRD-7 > Lambda's?_

 

I think the general opinion on the Lambda Pro is that they have a "midrange suckout" compared to other Lambdas. 

 If the LD can work as a preamp, then yes that will work. Another option would be getting an integrated speaker amp and not using the LD.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh really? I was under the impression that the Lambda's had very nice up-front mids. Not sure where I got that idea from.

 Well I don't have a tube speaker amp, but I think my Little Dot MK2 can work as a pre-amp. H120 > DAC > LD MK2 > Speaker Amp > SRD-7 > Lambda's?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the general opinion on the Lambda Pro is that they have a "midrange suckout" compared to other Lambdas. 

 If the LD can work as a preamp, then yes that will work. Another option would be getting an integrated speaker amp and not using the LD._

 

I have owned the Lambda Pro twice and sold them each time soon after. I just couldn't get used to the midrange suckout unless I used my Macbook as source and EQ the mids up a bit.

 The Lambda Sig mids are not as bad, although they are still a bit bright, but the SR-Lambda normal bias are the best to my ears. (although the ESP950 can make even the normal bias Lambda sound lacking in the mids).


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the general opinion on the Lambda Pro is that they have a "midrange suckout" compared to other Lambdas._

 

Ya, that seems to be the general opinion as I read thru this thread. But there are some exceptions like fraseyboy -- and me. I know this is a YMMV issue and dependent on your other equpment but the two things I love about the lambda pros are the air and the sweet, sweet midrange. I use them with a 007t amp. 

 I have two other stax phones, a 303 and 5NB gold, both good phones. But when I go in for a listen, I almost invariably grab the Lambda Pros and dont usually think about other options. I have never heard the 02s or any of the vintage holy grail options. Greater experience might change my preferences.


----------



## spritzer

The midrange, bass and treble issues of the L-Pro's were even noted in the original Stereophile review and the set wasn't recommended without an audition. 
 Didn't stop Stax selling a mountain of them though...


----------



## The Monkey

I like the Lambda Pros a lot.


----------



## WilCox

My SR-404 Limited arrived yesterday and I had time for a quick listen today. Those of you who are hoping for a major transformation of the SR-404 Signature will be disappointed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I spent about half an hour comparing the Limited to the Signature and found them to be near-identical twins! I could detect a bit more very-low (sub-sonic) bass through the Limited, but luckily no mid-bass bump at all. This is likely due to the better seal/isolation provided by the leather pads. There also may be a very slight improvement in smoothness in the upper mid-range, but I could be imagining that. 

 Most of my listening was on the 717. I'll need to try them with the 007tA later tonight.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the Lambda Pros a lot._

 

Me too, especially for electronic music. They seem to have a noticeable hump in the bass and midrange suckout, but very smooth and fast. I just switch between them and the signature whenever I get tired of one or the other. I think the Lambda Pro is more impressive right off the bat to someone auditioning then the signature would usually be. It doesn't surprise me that Stax sold a boat load.


----------



## xaval

Well, I guess is time for me to join Team Stax 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A low bias Lambda and SDR7SB are in but it could be a few day until I can listen to them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, the energizer looks almost brand new, which is a surprise really and also the cans are in a pretty good condition, cable inclusive with no apparent oxidation. Just the pads look a bit worn, as expected, but not at all in a not so good condition. Overall, the looks are just better than I expected - life's good!

 Just a quick noobie Qs ;p
 1 - Re charging the cans, is there a minimum period of time required for them to start singing?
 2 - Do I need to turn the speaker amp on to listen? Or can I just turn the pre-amp on? Summer is closing in and if I can save some energy and avoid having to soak my feet on a tin of water to cool down would be great!
 3 - On audiocubes website there are some pads listed for the Lambda Pros. Are these suitable for the low bias as well? (just in case I like the kit and want to keep it!)

 Thanks

 PS - I'm currently on page 171 of these thread, but it's just too much info to absorb so I'm sorry if all these questions have been covered already!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xaval* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I guess is time for me to join Team Stax 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A low bias Lambda and SDR7SB are in but it could be a few day until I can listen to them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, the energizer looks almost brand new, which is a surprise really and also the cans are in a pretty good condition, cable inclusive with no apparent oxidation. Just the pads look a bit worn, as expected, but not at all in a not so good condition. Overall, the looks are just better than I expected - life's good!

 Just a quick noobie Qs ;p
 1 - Re charging the cans, is there a minimum period of time required for them to start singing?
 2 - Do I need to turn the speaker amp on to listen? Or can I just turn the pre-amp on? Summer is closing in and if I can save some energy and avoid having to soak my feet on a tin of water to cool down would be great!
 3 - On audiocubes website there are some pads listed for the Lambda Pros. Are these suitable for the low bias as well? (just in case I like the kit and want to keep it!)

 Thanks

 PS - I'm currently on page 171 of these thread, but it's just too much info to absorb so I'm sorry if all these questions have been covered already!_

 

Re1: These phones should sound reasonable within seconds of being turned on and music being played to get the charging circuit in the transformer turned on. The phones may show some harshness and lack of full detail for 5- 10 minutes. In my experience the headphone amps (which you are not using) take longer to get going fully than the phones themselves, somewhere closer to 45 minutes. However it is possible that the rest of your system will need also show a warm-up. The point here is not so much that the phones are warming up, as that that they are showing to you for the first time, some of the subtleties (such as warm-up) of the rest of your system.

 Re: 2 You need a power amp to run the transformer, a pre-amp will give minimal or no sound.

 Re: I believe the pads will work because I don't think Stax changed the size or shape of the various Lambda phones over the 30 or so years they have been making them. The colors vary though. Audiocubes only offers grey and black.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Me too, especially for electronic music. They seem to have a noticeable hump in the bass and midrange suckout, but very smooth and fast. I just switch between them and the signature whenever I get tired of one or the other. I think the Lambda Pro is more impressive right off the bat to someone auditioning then the signature would usually be. It doesn't surprise me that Stax sold a boat load._

 

Really? Oh dear. Maybe this won't be my last head-fi purchase after all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What about the normal bias Lambda's? Have they got the midrange suckout?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? Oh dear. Maybe this won't be my last head-fi purchase after all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What about the normal bias Lambda's? Have they got the midrange suckout?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...*but the SR-Lambda normal bias are the best to my ears*. (although the ESP950 can make even the normal bias Lambda sound lacking in the mids)._

 

I agree with HeadphoneAddict.

 Give your Pros some listening time. Consider the synergy with your equipment, too, as their might be other equipment factors that could balance out any perceived midrange suckout.


----------



## manaox2

fraseyboy, don't be discouraged. I believe I could be happy with only the Lambda Pros.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? Oh dear. Maybe this won't be my last head-fi purchase after all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What about the normal bias Lambda's? Have they got the midrange suckout?_

 

At least wait until you have heard the SR-Lambda Pro before writing it off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cause even if some around here have issues with it don't mean they are bad headphones and that you wont like them.

 Anyway, as long as you stay around I doubt this will be your last Head-Fi purchase. He he


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_fraseyboy, don't be discouraged. I believe I could be happy with only the Lambda Pros._

 

Yup, I could have stopped there with satisfaction.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with HeadphoneAddict.
 Give your Pros some listening time. Consider the synergy with your equipment, too, as their might be other equipment factors that could balance out any perceived midrange suckout._

 

The fact that I do not hear the "midrange suckout" doesn't mean that it doesnt exist for other people. Maybe my ears aren't as good (they're quite old) or better! (tho I doubt it) or maybe my source is compensating. Your mileage may vary. Your ears may vary. Your interconnects or tubes or power cords may vary. Your ability to perceive the music may vary. And if you like it, well....hell!

 I love it when I cant go to bed because Im listening to music and Im awestruck at how wonderful it sounds and dont want to let go of the experience. A couple nights this past week the "Pros" were the agents of this bliss.

 I dont really go looking for deficiencies in my system. Over time they will appear, either because my listening has improved or because I've heard better stuff. 

 Meanwhile.....


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I was running this through my brain the other day. I have an sr-lambda/srd7sb combo. right now I am running it out of a vintage sony integrated amp, and it sounds pretty damn nice. what will make a bigger impact, getting something like an sdr7, or a different amp. I guess its the whole "energizer" issue that still creeps in to confuse me. I read a lot about the 717, etc. but are those in line with another amp as well? always seeking clarification.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was running this through my brain the other day. I have an sr-lambda/srd7sb combo. right now I am running it out of a vintage sony integrated amp, and it sounds pretty damn nice. what will make a bigger impact, getting something like an sdr7, or a different amp. I guess its the whole "energizer" issue that still creeps in to confuse me. I read a lot about the 717, etc. but are those in line with another amp as well? always seeking clarification._

 

"SORRY FOR YOUR WALLET"

 Actually there are always cheaper tweaks which can often outperform buying new equipment. These often produce a lot of hostility from those who haven't tried them. Look in the tweaks section. If you say that investing in another $2k equipment buys audio bliss this is generally believed. If you say investing in $20.00 in tweaks gives you audio bliss you are told to get your head examined. 

 One of the cheapest tweaks is contact enhancers. Pro-gold is good and it cleans the contacts. Mapleshade Silclear is a good deal better but is somewhat messy. The other day I was comparing 2 SR1Mk2 amps one with and one without Silclear and there was about 2 notches difference in volume, i.e. the untreated amp neede to be turned up 2 notches. After treatment they sounded the same. Thus stuff bumps up the effective power of the system, giving you more punch, bass and other good things. It's cheap and if you don't like it you're not out much dough.

 Somewhat more expensive :there are some pretty good silver/silver/copper IC's and power cords out there in the $100 and up category.

 Much more expensive, 717 amps, 007 phones.

 Time to rob a bank - after market headphone amps.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"SORRY FOR YOUR WALLET"

 Actually there are always cheaper tweaks which can often outperform buying new equipment. These often produce a lot of hostility from those who haven't tried them. Look in the tweaks section. ......

 Time to rob a bank - after market headphone amps.
_

 

You are more than right Ed. 

 But there is the "placebo" effect that makes a lot of people think lowly of inexpensive or reasonably priced gear such as your and m favorite Koss ESP-950.

 And then with the zillion of after market products one may be skeptical but not when a product comes highly recommended from a serious Headfier with a proven track record.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I think I confused myself with what I wrote. I guess I was just wondering if people mostly use stax amps and a source to drive their cans, or if most are using a speaker amp, stax energizer. I dont want to bog down the thread because of my confusion on how stax amps/energizers work.. before someone else says it, I'm heading to the search button now. I thought I knew, now I dont.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I confused myself with what I wrote. I guess I was just wondering if people mostly use stax amps and a source to drive their cans, or if most are using a speaker amp, stax energizer. I dont want to bog down the thread because of my confusion on how stax amps/energizers work.. before someone else says it, I'm heading to the search button now. I thought I knew, now I dont._

 

Stax hasn't made transformers for several years so if you are starting with all new equipment you are probably on an amplifier.

 However there are a lot of old low bias Stax transformers out there and some people seem to like them a lot. High Bias (pro) Stax transformers are fairly rare and tend to be rather expensive because of that. There are also I believe a few aftremarket transformers for Stax equipment.

 The general argument seems to be that a transformer, since it gets its power from an existing power amp, can give more dynamics than most of the headphone amps which may be underpowered. On the other hand this is probably not true with the bigger headphone amps. 

 The headphone amps seem to give more detail. Its been years since I had a Stax transformer, so I can't say for sure but I have not felt a need to go back to transformers and certainly when I compare my Koss sets (ESP 6,9 and 950) 2 of which have transformers and one an amp, the amped phones have more detail and ambience than the transformer set-ups.


----------



## fraseyboy

Thanks to the extreem kindness of webbie64, I have become the temporary owner of an SRD-7 Pro and some Gamma Pro's! Liking the sound. Haven't really listened much but so far they seem to be very fast and detailed but pretty flat overall, although the bass is quite lacking.

 I got some questions about the setup though.

 On my power amp, you can set the speaker size to Large or Small... Does it matter which it is set to? At the moment I have it set to small, since my other speakers are small, but would this result in bass that should be going to the gamma's being redirected to the subwoofer instead?

 Also, there is quite a large hiss in the background which I think is coming from my power amp. What's the best way of minimizing this?


----------



## edstrelow

I see a Sigma Pro on Audiogon just sold. You never know the price but the seller wanted $1,000.00 and the phones sold on the 6'th day, so I would gues he got it or something close.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I confused myself with what I wrote. I guess I was just wondering if people mostly use stax amps and a source to drive their cans, or if most are using a speaker amp, stax energizer._

 

Both can work well with a range of ESPs. I use an aftermarket amp (Woo GES) with my HE60s, though with different tubes it drives the O2 quite nicely too. I just enjoy the HE60s too much and don't want to tuberoll each time I want to listen to the O2s.

 The O2s I drive through a wonderful Naim32.5/250 pre/power amp combo via an (as yet unmodified) SRD7-Pro. This makes them sing wonderfully also (in some ways better to my ears than through the Woo - but my bias is to use a solid state amp with the O2s; I prefer that synergy).

 So you can find that both approaches will more than deliver an exceptional SQ for you to be entranced by. (As dickbianchi implies a few posts ago, there's nothing like being so engaged by the sound that you find it's almost dawn and you're yet to get any sleep for the night!).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...The headphone amps seem to give more detail. Its been years since I had a Stax transformer, so I can't say for sure but I have not felt a need to go back to transformers and certainly when I compare my Koss sets (ESP 6,9 and 950) 2 of which have transformers and one an amp, the amped phones have more detail and ambience than the transformer set-ups._

 

My ESP6s were modded by spritzer to seperate the transformer from the headphone. So I can listen to the ESP6s or the 950s through an energiser or an amp. I think the argument about detail through energisers should be tempered by considering the level of detail in the speaker amp you are driving the energiser with. A _*good*_ detailed speaker amp through an energiser can still, IMHO, deliver detail like that delivered by a *good* dedicated electrostatic headphone amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to the extreem kindness of webbie64, I have become the temporary owner of an SRD-7 Pro and some Gamma Pro's!_

 

Glad to oblige. Gives you something to enjoy for those few weeks leading up to you getting your hands on those Lambda Pros.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On my power amp, you can set the speaker size to Large or Small... Does it matter which it is set to?_

 

Hate to say the obvious but try it and see. And let us know your impressions of which setting works better for you. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, there is quite a large hiss in the background which I think is coming from my power amp. What's the best way of minimizing this?_

 

Do you hear that level of hiss through speakers? Sounds like an amp fault or poor amp spec if that's the case. Try this initially just with a direct connection through the speakers and, should there be no hiss that way, try it with the speakers connected through the energiser - to determine if its being added by the energiser).

 If it's not experienced either way through the speakers then verify it happens prior to engaging any source (to ensure the hiss is from the amp or energiser itself - if it's not then it might be a source issue?)

 Could be a rare possibility but also confirm its experienced through both 'Pro' energiser outlets (you never know? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 My ESP6s were modded by spritzer to seperate the transformer from the headphone. So I can listen to the ESP6s or the 950s through an energiser or an amp. I think the argument about detail through energisers should be tempered by considering the level of detail in the speaker amp you are driving the energiser with. A *good* detailed speaker amp through an energiser can still, IMHO, deliver detail like that delivered by a *good* dedicated electrostatic headphone amp.


_

 

I have an extra Koss ESP9 headset that I had tried to get to operate on an amp without any success. I don't believe there is much fundamental difference bteween the ESP6 and 9 other than the self-contained nature of the 6. I should get back to trying to get these to operate.

 How do you like the sound of the 6 through an amp, and btw, which amp?


----------



## spritzer

I'd guess that the electronics in the ESP9 are fried so try to install some jumper wires and hook the cable directly to the drivers. You will have to treat the backwave though since Koss didn't allow full output to the back stator thus reducing the effect of a closed housing.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an extra Koss ESP9 headset that I had tried to get to operate on an amp without any success. I don't believe there is much fundamental difference bteween the ESP6 and 9 other than the self-contained nature of the 6. I should get back to trying to get these to operate.

 How do you like the sound of the 6 through an amp, and btw, which amp?_

 

Spritzer's post sounds to be on the money.

 I've run it on a McAllister EA-4 and an SRD-X Pro.

 As to sound, well it's obviously quite different to the 950 (in design, bias, intent, etc) and I find the sound to be a good introductory ESP.

 I got it because I wanted to experience a closed housing and thought I'd perhaps use it with my bedside electrostatic rig whilst my wife was resting. But I find I use my IEMs more often than not in those circs, and open backed ESPs at other times.

 But I have taken it to lunchtime mini-meets (when I don't want to carry much gear but want to give someone a taste of electrostats in what's often a cafe with some noise to deal with). Without exception people have found it as eye opening as any other time I've introduced someone to electrostats (i.e. it's an effective ESP to get people to experience the strengths of electrostats)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd guess that the electronics in the ESP9 are fried so try to install some jumper wires and hook the cable directly to the drivers. You will have to treat the backwave though since Koss didn't allow full output to the back stator thus reducing the effect of a closed housing._

 

No, I took the electronics out of the cups before trying this. I just ran out of drive to get the job finished.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer's post sounds to be on the money.

 I've run it on a McAllister EA-4 and an SRD-X Pro.

 As to sound, well it's obviously quite different to the 950 (in design, bias, intent, etc) and I find the sound to be a good introductory ESP.

 I got it because I wanted to experience a closed housing and thought I'd perhaps use it with my bedside electrostatic rig whilst my wife was resting. But I find I use my IEMs more often than not in those circs, and open backed ESPs at other times.

 But I have taken it to lunchtime mini-meets (when I don't want to carry much gear but want to give someone a taste of electrostats in what's often a cafe with some noise to deal with). Without exception people have found it as eye opening as any other time I've introduced someone to electrostats (i.e. it's an effective ESP to get people to experience the strengths of electrostats)_

 


 I have a somewhat similar use re the wife. I keep my best cd set-up in the bedroom and I often put on the ESP6 or 9 late a night as she sleeps because the Sigma/404 and 007A's are out of the question. The 003 seems acceptable, certainly I have not had any complaints when using them, but we usually have an air-filter running which masks some noise.

 The lunchtime mini-meet sounds interesting. I can see that the noise is an issue since most phones are open-backed. That is the main reason I have kept the old Koss ESP 6 and 9. The 9 is a bit better than the 6 but needs some mid range boost which the 6 seems to have, but the 6 doesn't have as good bass.

 I will be going to the CAN-JAM in LA next week-end, so I will find out how bad the noise problem is. I am bringing the Sigma/404 which is one of the noisiest phones ever made and has virtually no isolation from noise.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will be going to the CAN-JAM in LA next week-end, so I will find out how bad the noise problem is. I am bringing the Sigma/404 which is one of the noisiest phones ever made and has virtually no isolation from noise._

 

So, you could lay the Sigma/404 on the desktop, plug the ear holes, and have a small acoustic suspension stat desktop speaker rig.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, you could lay the Sigma/404 on the desktop, plug the ear holes, and have a small acoustic suspension stat desktop speaker rig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

...or just put them on their stand and place them so that they are facing a wall like Stax talked about in the manual. They are out of phase so you have to bounce the sound around once to correct it.


----------



## freckling

sorry for the noob question, but do either the srd-7 or srd-7/sb accept banana plugs or does one have to use bare speaker wire?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *freckling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry for the noob question, but do either the srd-7 or srd-7/sb accept banana plugs or does one have to use bare speaker wire?_

 

My SRD-7 Pro does, but the holes in my SRD-7 Mk2 are too small, and my SRD-7SB came with thumb screws and could not.


----------



## fraseyboy

ZOMG the Lambda's and SRD-7 Pro arrived today. Not allowed to listen to them till birthday, but I checked them out to ensure they are as described. That SRD-7 Pro is so nice looking with its brushed gold... Mmmm...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ZOMG the Lambda's and SRD-7 Pro arrived today. Not allowed to listen to them till birthday, but I checked them out to ensure they are as described. That SRD-7 Pro is so nice looking with its brushed gold... Mmmm..._

 

Congrats, fraseyboy. But I thought you were getting an SRD7 MK 2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Bring on that birthday, eh?


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats, fraseyboy. But I thought you were getting an SRD7 MK 2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Bring on that birthday, eh? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh yes, it is a MK 2. I forget.

 Came with a nice catalog too, explaining all the different models.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ZOMG the Lambda's and SRD-7 Pro arrived today. Not allowed to listen to them till birthday, but I checked them out to ensure they are as described. That SRD-7 Pro is so nice looking with its brushed gold... Mmmm..._

 

I am sure the three upcoming weeks will be the longest ones in your life so far. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Good things are worth waiting for though!


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That SRD-7 Pro is so nice looking with its brushed gold... Mmmm..._

 

Illusion ESC-1001 looks a bit better, IMO. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Banana plugs fit OK.


----------



## tako_tsubo

"brushed gold"? I don't remember that on my srd 7 pro...been using the mk2, have to dig it out!

 Happy Birthday fraseyboy...you turning 18 yet? And tell your parents that they are cool for getting you such a nice gift


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sure the three upcoming weeks will be the longest ones in your life so far. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Good things are worth waiting for though!_

 

X2, I am betting heavily that fraseyboy will love them.


----------



## jigster

Came across a old amp from Stax, the SRM-Monitor. Seems like a SRM1 amp coupled with the ED-1 diffuser. Anyone knows how this amp sounds compared to the SRM1/MKII or T1?


----------



## padam

Should be pretty much the same as the SRM-1/MK2 Pro, the ED-1 is said to give the Lambda Pro an artificially increased soundstage, but doesn't help the actual SQ.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should be pretty much the same as the SRM-1/MK2 Pro, the ED-1 is said to give the Lambda Pro an artificially increased soundstage, but doesn't help the actual SQ._

 


 is said ?

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## padam

Several people tried and they were unimpressed (causes a severe loss of detail), yet sometimes the ED-1 alone goes for crazy prices on eBay so I guess some do like it...


----------



## edstrelow

I have been trying to contact Yamasinc the US Stax distributor for almost 2 weks with phone calls, fax and e-mail and get no response. I wonder if they are still in business?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been trying to contact Yamasinc the US Stax distributor for almost 2 weks with phone calls, fax and e-mail and get no response. I wonder if they are still in business?_

 

I had the same situation about 6 months ago, I gave up. for such awesome headphones, they sure are not easy to own.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been trying to contact Yamasinc the US Stax distributor for almost 2 weks with phone calls, fax and e-mail and get no response. I wonder if they are still in business?_

 

They respond to me roughly 1 out of every 7 times I try to contact them.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Sent Yama 3 emails regarding the parts for my 717. Got 0 response.


----------



## The Monkey

Is it that they don't give a damn about the second-hand market?


----------



## veloaudio

The other option, albeit less than ideal, is to contact Craig about using Kuboten to get to Stax Japan. 

 I'm still waiting for repairs on my O2's so I can't comment on the speed of the service over there (mine never left Japan before going to Stax either and this could be the reason Craig was willing to help). They have only had them for a week.


----------



## The Monkey

Good suggestion. I have had much better luck with Craig, both in terms of service and price. At least he returns emails.


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good suggestion. I have had much better luck with Craig, both in terms of service and price. At least he returns emails._

 

I cannot say enough about Craig's service. Keeping the time difference in mind, after I email him, I usually get a response from him within an hour. And it has never taken longer than 12 hrs for him to get back to me.

 Only problem is I find myself checking Yahoo Japan auctions more now ...


----------



## Mister Crash

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* 
_I have been trying to contact Yamasinc the US Stax distributor for almost 2 weks with phone calls, fax and e-mail and get no response. I wonder if they are still in business?_

 

I tried ordering a new Omega II system a little over a month ago. The price was very good, and the seller was an authorized Stax dealer. When I ordered it, I was told that it would be shipped straight to me, and the shipment usually took place within 24 hours.

 After two weeks, I still hadn't heard anything, so I contacted the dealer. He seemed puzzled, and told me he would try to get in contact with them to check on the status of the order. Another week went by without a response, so he contacted them again. Then another week passed with no response.

 I ended up canceling the order. I'm not sure what's going on with them.


----------



## feckn_eejit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Illusion ESC-1001 looks a bit better, IMO. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The sinister black SRD-7/Pro is my fav looking transfo box... unfortunately the ESC-1001 does sound better, though it doesn't swing near as much voltage! (or mine's broken....)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...though it doesn't swing near as much voltage! (or mine's broken....)_

 

A transformer either works or not so they could have used a lower ratio on the Illusion which would result in less voltage swing.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *feckn_eejit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sinister black SRD-7/Pro is my fav looking transfo box..._

 

The SRD-7 Pro is my favorite as well. The black finish blends in nicely with the rest of my gear, and it get the job done quite well as well.


----------



## xantus

oh no! there's a buzzing in my SRM-1/MK2 Pro. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 opening my case and listening around, I can hear something buzzing lightly, sounds like it is coming from near the 3 large black caps at the rear.
 in the headphones, the buzzing is in the left channel, it is a squarewave that changes in frequency. eventually the buzzing in the headphones dies, but the buzzing in the amp never stops. 


 I do not believe it is a driver/phone problem, as everything is clean, and pressing in on the drivers doesn't temporarily make the buzzing stop. 
 after the amp warms up for 5-10 minutes, the buzzing in the phones always stops and doesn't come back until the amp is power cycled. (the buzzing sound i can hear in the amp never stops)

 i'm comfortable with soldering, is this something that I can fix? I think it's a capacitor..fuses do not buzz, do they?
 on the other hand.. if it isn't fixed, could this damage the amp in some way? cause as it is, it works fine if I just let it warm up for 10 minutes.


----------



## greggf

We had an experience with Yama's about like the one that Mister Crash had, all in recent weeks. We finally got through and was told that it would take weeks to get an Omega system in the US, because, they said, "The problem is that they're too popular." 

 What's up with Yama?


----------



## edstrelow

I got an e-mail from Tats at Yamasinc after my posting on this site. Possibly they read this thread. Now I have ordered some 404 pads. It remains to be seen if they get sent.

 In addition to selling Stax they also repair Stax and several other brands, so it is odd to see such slow responses. 

 I know they were freaked out by the amount of gray market Stax coming into the US, but the reason is the obscene mark-ups the local dealers stick on things.

 The business model has to change with the times. Dealers with huge mark-ups which differ between countries don't work when anyone can be his/her own importer on the internet. 

 The problem is not just unique to Stax . And it must be remembered that under US warranty laws an importer must also provide repair service so that adds another financial issue. But the express warranty doesn't have to be any specifc length and some major companies, such as Sony have reduced the time. Then you however have "implied warranties" for which the time duration is pretty murky. Other repairs though you can bill the hell out of.


----------



## Nick 214

Can anyone tell me definitively if these are Sigma Pros? Lambda Pros?

 I emailed the guy who "owns" the image and he just said "SR Professional" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Thanks

 NK


----------



## padam

SR-Lambda Pro, the Sigma Pros look like two great big boxes, they are the real 'earspeakers'


----------



## Nick 214

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Lambda Pro, the Sigma Pros look like two great big boxes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks a ton! I knew I could count on some international Head-Fiers! (Mot sane people are asleep at 2:15 AM on a Friday on the East Coast, USA) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 NK


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nick 214* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me definitively if these are Sigma Pros? Lambda Pros?

 I emailed the guy who "owns" the image and he just said "SR Professional" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Thanks

 NK_

 

Definitely Lambdas Whether pro or low bias depends on the number of pins in the plug, 5 or 6. There seems to be an SRD7 transformer in the picture. Most of these are low bias. If this one is a pro to match the pro phones, that would be considered a good find by many.


----------



## John Buchanan

Not Sigmas - see my avatar LOL.


----------



## manaox2

I've been checking out that auction since it was first created and in touch with the seller who answered all of your questions, they are lambda pros in 70/100 condition cosmetically and a normal bias adapter. I'm kind of glad they aren't normal bias which is what I'm looking for now, it seems like the right conditions now that it has been posted here to become a bidding war.


----------



## malldian

I have sent Yami several emails... no response.


----------



## Nick 214

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been checking out that auction since it was first created and in touch with the seller who answered all of your questions, they are lambda pros in 70/100 condition cosmetically and a normal bias adapter. I'm kind of glad they aren't normal bias which is what I'm looking for now, it seems like the right conditions now that it has been posted here to become a bidding war._

 

Cool. 

 NK


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nick 214* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me definitively if these are Sigma Pros? Lambda Pros?

 I emailed the guy who "owns" the image and he just said "SR Professional" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Thanks

 NK_

 

Ask the guy if the plug has five or six pins. If five pins, it's definitely a Lambda Pro.

 I'm 90% sure the transformer is an SRD-7/SB, which is for Normal bias 6-pin earspeakers.


----------



## edstrelow

Yamasinc got my order to me today by UPS, so evidently they can deliver quickly. Why it I so hard to get them to answer at times I do not know.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ask the guy if the plug has five or six pins. If five pins, it's definitely a Lambda Pro.

 I'm 90% sure the transformer is an SRD-7/SB, which is for Normal bias 6-pin earspeakers._

 

If you look closely at the picture, there is no "professional" written on top of the SRD-7/SB and the Lambda pros there have 5 pins.


----------



## edstrelow

I was listening to my newly acquired Lambda Signatures and one channel was definitely brighter than the other. Upon further inspection, the bright channel was missing the very thin, almost invisible, foam backing behind the driver and the plastic back case. Apparently this can have a marked effect on the SQ. Now I need to find some more of this stuff.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you look closely at the picture, there is no "professional" written on top of the SRD-7/SB and the Lambda pros there have 5 pins._

 

That's a good point. All I know is that it's definitely a self-biasing transformer because it doesn't have a wall plug. 

 I do own an SRD-7 Pro, and mine doesn't have a "Professional" on top. It's possible that the SRD-7 Mk2/SB has it. The chance of finding an SRD-7 Mk2/SB is like getting hit by lightning though. 

 Off-Quote: Anyway, I haven't posted in a while. I own a Lambda Nova Signature and think it's the best value in head-fi-dom. The sound signature is similar to that of the O2; there's nothing in the spectrum that is particularly annoying at any volume. This is unlike stats I've owned in the last, namely Lambda Pro and HeAudio Jade. Besides the LNS's inferior soundstage and imaging compared to the O2, I personally prefer the frequency balance of the LNS on my setup, which is blasphemous to describe in this forum. This is definitely because my "amp" is not expensive enough to control the O2's bass. 

 A couple of annoying things I've run across with the LNS are physical in nature. The foam irritates my ears, so I've removed it. Also, my left earspeaker had a rattle with certain bass frequencies, which I've transiently resolved by nudging the foam inside the cup. 

 Otherwise, the LNS does piano better than anything I've experienced. It has the perfect amount of bass and treble, combined with the speed of a stat. Just for reference, I listen primarily to classical and use the crappiest setup possible, yet I'm 100% satisfied with my LNS. My ears are young, and I'm pretty picky about sound in general. I have a lot of confidence in the sound of an LNS, so if anyone has similar tastes and is looking to settle down with a sub-$1000 budget, I'd recommend the LNS (if you can find one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ). I loved it when I got it and still love it every time I use it.


----------



## Nick 214

If anyone is interested, I am officially in the trading market for a Stax System.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f43/wt...t-stax-426811/

 Thanks for the help a few posts back!

 NK


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Off-Quote: Anyway, I haven't posted in a while. I own a Lambda Nova Signature and think it's the best value in head-fi-dom. The sound signature is similar to that of the O2; there's nothing in the spectrum that is particularly annoying at any volume. This is unlike stats I've owned in the last, namely Lambda Pro and HeAudio Jade. Besides the LNS's inferior soundstage and imaging compared to the O2, I personally prefer the frequency balance of the LNS on my setup, which is blasphemous to describe in this forum. This is definitely because my "amp" is not expensive enough to control the O2's bass. 

 Otherwise, the LNS does piano better than anything I've experienced. It has the perfect amount of bass and treble, combined with the speed of a stat. Just for reference, I listen primarily to classical and use the crappiest setup possible, yet I'm 100% satisfied with my LNS. My ears are young, and I'm pretty picky about sound in general. I have a lot of confidence in the sound of an LNS, so if anyone has similar tastes and is looking to settle down with a sub-$1000 budget, I'd recommend the LNS (if you can find one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). I loved it when I got it and still love it every time I use it._

 

If the LNS had the detail of the O2, then I wouldn't feel the desire to own a pair of O2's. I really wish I could own a pair of O2's that had the sound signature of the LNS.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

I had a very similar conundrum, I had the O2mk1(driven by 717) and the original SR-Lambda Signature. I wanted the detail retrieval capability of the O2mk1 and really wished for the sound signature of the Lambda Signature. 

 In the end I gave up the O2mk1 and kept the Lambda Signature.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

-Double Post-

 I've got a crappy connection at the moment.


----------



## SoliloCey

I'm very content with my SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't see the point going to sigma, or omega's for another few years.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very content with my SR-303 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't see the point going to sigma, or omega's for another few years. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

that's the spirit! 











 though somehow we all know it is just pure wishful thinking.


----------



## dickbianchi

I have to confess, Id really love to hear the O2s with my 007t. Haven't really got the bucks to buy a pair right now, and dont know if I would anyway as I am satisfied with the Lambda pros and 5NB golds. If money were flowing freely, however, Id get a pair pronto as I know I'd love them.
 I've yet to meet a stax earphone I really disliked and I love "more revealing". 

 Also on my wishlist is a really great Dac.

 And then there's the curiosity about the AKG K1000s!

 Oh yes, that new Sennheiser!

 Oy vey!

 I guess the point is it's not really upgraditis as I will move from this computer to my setup and have a very good time. It's more like the whole thing is a smorgasbord with a lot of tasty dishes and I wish the line would move a little faster toward a few dishes I really want to taste!

 After I return to the states, I will put CanJam on my wish-list.


----------



## Lil' Knight

The O2+007t really makes me sleepy when listening to them.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2+007t really makes me sleepy when listening to them._

 

Try feeding them some music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 cheers


----------



## edstrelow

Just back from CANJAM and my head is still in a buzz from what I heard and saw. 

 Firstly thanks to the organizers for a first-rate set-up. 

 I always thought of Head-fiers as Motel 6 kind of guys(and a few gals), so to get set-up in the Hilton with very favorable rates, was a great pleasure.

 There was also a notable lack of argument and contentiousness, and instead there was a great deal of courtesy and fellowship.

 It hadn't really dawned on me just what this type of convention was really about until I got there and saw all the gleaming equipment, in systems put together, not with commercial considerations in mind, but with the system quality and sound uppermost. You could never get anything like this done in a commercial convention. 

 A lot of what was on display was simply state-of-the-art, and to be able to walk around, trying this equipment out with your own music, and even swapping items around, (I took my Sigma/404's) around to every big amp (some as big a car engines) I could find, Blue Hawaii's, Single Power etc. and got a chance to find out what all this stuff was really about. 

 I also spent a significant time tracking down some of the premiere dynamic set-ups. I heard a number of Sennheisser 800, 650 and 600 , and AKG K 1000's set-ups, some allowing direct comparisons with other phones, incuding electrostatics.

 What really blew my mind was the number of people who set up $5-10K ,or more, of equipment and then just walk away and allow the rest of us to play with it. I set up my own cd/dac/717/Sigma pro/Sigma 404 display with great concern, but eventually walked away like so many others to listen to other displays. 

 (Note to self: clean and polish equipment next time, it's hard to compete with so much gleaming chrome/alluminum and glowing tubes. Of course I couldn't do much to improve the looks of the Sigmas. While both sets were rebuilt inside, they still had the same aging plastic, yellowing mineral wool and metal with anodizing coming off, as befits 25 year old phones.)

 Anyway no time tonight to go over this but I hope to get detailed thoughts down in the next few days.


----------



## n3rdling

Hey ed, it was nice meeting you. I was the guy with the other Sigmas next door (Milos).


----------



## spritzer

Those Sigma's look really beat up Ed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's the drivers that count though...


----------



## progo

Hmm, I've got some extra money that could be spent on the next upgrade. The next target should be my amp (currently SRM-212). There's still the old set of LNS and SRM-T1S at ~$990 available that I asked here yesteryear. That'd be a nice amp upgrade at least and some great Lambda cans! Or should I target for SRM-717 at some $1200? Agreed that $990 is quite much for an old pair but should I get a similar set at $600 abroad, the customs would be covering it upto $900 anyway.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey ed, it was nice meeting you. I was the guy with the other Sigmas next door (Milos)._

 

It was good to meet you too. I went looking for your set-up a couple of times but couldn't find it. Were you moving around. Some of the rooms were so dark (to enhance listening) that I couldn't always see what was on display or even identify the name on the amps. I saw that some more experienced Jammers brought flashlights with them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those Sigma's look really beat up Ed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's the drivers that count though..._

 

That's right, it's the insides that matter but there was a "bling" factor to some of the gear on display which mine lacked. Even the 717 amp looked kind of shabby in the dim lighting and it's in pristine condition. I guess most Stax equipment doesn't look too sexy. 

 Still I saw a number of people taking photographs of the set-up. I remember one guy delicately positioning the 2 Sigmas side by side, like a baby picture, before he took his picture.

 I forgot my video camera and good still camera and just grabbed an old low def camera form my office. I see that a number of people in the pictures thread shot my stuff, here is one from AMP.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

ONE SENTENCE REVIEW OF KGBHSE AND O2 MK1:

 THE KGBHSE IS THE BEST AMP FOR THE O2 MK1 THAT I HAVE HEARD.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_THE KGBHSE IS THE BEST AMP FOR THE O2 MK1 THAT I HAVE HEARD._

 

Thats what we like to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The SR-007 is a beast to drive, and with all written about the KGBH so far its no surprise that the KGBH SE are another step ahead.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ONE SENTENCE REVIEW OF KGBHSE AND O2 MK1:

 THE KGBHSE IS THE BEST AMP FOR THE O2 MK1 THAT I HAVE HEARD._

 

Was this the one?







[/IMG]

 Picture by Gokiburi.


----------



## spritzer

Yup. I hope to get mine soon...


----------



## edstrelow

It added a nice drier, punchier sound to the Sigma/404 than the other amps I tried. However I spent more of my time with MIKEYMADS Singlepower mainly because he was right next to me and there were too many people lined up for the BH. All of these big amps compared to my 717, moved the Sigma/404 more in the direction of the 007 but with the bigger and deeper soundfield. 

 I hope to post more detailed impressions soon.


----------



## gilency

Hi Ed. I met you at CanJam. I really appreciated all the information regarding Stax, and really enjoyed listening to your own system. Thank you.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ed. I met you at CanJam. I really appreciated all the information regarding Stax, and really enjoyed listening to your own system. Thank you._

 

It was good to meet you too. CANJAM was a great experience. It really allows you to figure out what's what in this field.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have to confess, Id really love to hear the O2s with my 007t. Haven't really got the bucks to buy a pair right now, and dont know if I would anyway as I am satisfied with the Lambda pros and 5NB golds. If money were flowing freely, however, Id get a pair pronto as I know I'd love them.
 I've yet to meet a stax earphone I really disliked and I love "more revealing". 

 Also on my wishlist is a really great Dac.

 And then there's the curiosity about the AKG K1000s!

 Oh yes, that new Sennheiser!

 Oy vey!

 I guess the point is it's not really upgraditis as I will move from this computer to my setup and have a very good time. It's more like the whole thing is a smorgasbord with a lot of tasty dishes and I wish the line would move a little faster toward a few dishes I really want to taste!

 After I return to the states, I will put CanJam on my wish-list._

 

RE: AKG K1000

 I had a good listen to 2 sets of these at CANJAM and found them very interesting. It's fun the way the drivers are hinged and can be swung in to be like a conventional headphone, or out, to make them like a set of Sigmas without the box enclosure. Basically this configuration works fairly well.

 They are good sounding dynamics but I'm not giving up Stax for them.

 I wonder if anyone has tried to hang a set of stat drivers like this? A headband/frame for them can't be that hard to make.

 It's possible that AKG is sitting on some patents for them..

 It would be interesting to compare a set of 404 drivers hung like this with the Sigma/Lambda phones. 

 Even more interesting would be some 007 drivers hung this way.

 Or just use the set-up as a basis for experimenting with Sigma type enclosures.

 I don't have any spare high bias drivers although I do have a spare set of low bias Sigma drivers (from my 404 upgrade) which I would give up if anyone wants to try this.


----------



## doping panda

I'd just like to say that the BHSE/O2 is the best headphone and amp I have ever heard. Sadly, I would never buy them unless I got lucky in Vegas or something because it's much too expensive for me.

 I'd also like to say hi to you, Ed. I met you Saturday afternoon and we had a nice chat after I listened to your system. I was the wide Asian boy in the black shirt. I liked the Sigmas 404/717 setup. I just wish I had brought some of my own music on Saturday so I can have a better frame of reference.


----------



## matt fury

Did you guys hear Frank Cooter's setup with Vicki's O2? BHSE is hot, but I thought Franks was still better.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Is there any info about Frank's amp, especially the price tag?


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any info about Frank's amp, especially the price tag?_

 

I don't know, but it looked really expensive.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doping panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd just like to say that the BHSE/O2 is the best headphone and amp I have ever heard. Sadly, I would never buy them unless I got lucky in Vegas or something because it's much too expensive for me.

 I'd also like to say hi to you, Ed. I met you Saturday afternoon and we had a nice chat after I listened to your system. I was the wide Asian boy in the black shirt. I liked the Sigmas 404/717 setup. I just wish I had brought some of my own music on Saturday so I can have a better frame of reference._

 

Hi to you. I recall your moniker. Re: buying such things, just don't get married and if that doesn't swing it eat frugally.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know, but it looked really expensive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sure thing.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any info about Frank's amp, especially the price tag?_

 

Yeah, some more information would be great. Cause besides the handful pictures there are little known about them...
 The 3-box design and all the tubes scream "expensive" though.


----------



## matt fury

It's all ancient, esoteric tubes, mercury vapor psu, etc. From what I understand it's not for sale, but I did keep hearing something about $15k... Probably worth it. Definitely the best thing I've ever heard.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *matt fury* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...but I did keep hearing something about $15k..._

 

Ouch! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 What a pity I didn't pay attention to it


----------



## progo

By the way, is there any agreeable improvement in any of the 2007 upgrades of the Stax lines? I mean the new II, or A, series. We've all read how 007A sounds colored and how badly 727A does the job. Of course there are some who prefer the new stuff but from what I've read, the consensus is that those are inferior to the older gear. Is there a can A or amp II that the majority of people actually prefer? I'm sure the company has had good reasons to do their changes in formulas but obviously some of these changes seem to be just stupid. Is there an exception?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way, is there any agreeable improvement in any of the 2007 upgrades of the Stax lines? I mean the new II, or A, series. We've all read how 007A sounds colored and how badly 727A does the job. Of course there are some who prefer the new stuff but from what I've read, the consensus is that those are inferior to the older gear. Is there a can A or amp II that the majority of people actually prefer? I'm sure the company has had good reasons to do their changes in formulas but obviously some of these changes seem to be just stupid. Is there an exception?_

 

Stax has admitted that the 007A is just an 007 with black paint, real leather pads, and a different strain relief on the cable. 

 The way the strain relief fits in creates a vent that didn't exist in the 007. You can invisibly cure this with a wad of bluetak or a squirt of rtv silicone.


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax has admitted that the 007A is just an 007 with black paint, real leather pads, and a different strain relief on the cable. 

 The way the strain relief fits in creates a vent that didn't exist in the 007. You can invisibly cure this with a wad of bluetak or a squirt of rtv silicone._

 

IIRC, spritzer wrote that even with the closed vent holes and with the earpads from 007, the 007II/007A sounds still different. IIRC, he assumed that Stax has changed something in the drivers.


----------



## spritzer

The drivers are different and the earpads are also taller which creates a nasty midrange coloration. 

 The amps are more of the same and the short time I spent with the 007tA I didn't notice any difference from memory. The 323 is a nice step above the 313 (or the horrible SRM-3) and I'm planning to buy a 727 to try and do some mods to it.


----------



## xaval

I need a bit of advice. Thanks.

 How tight should Lambdas sit on my head? The pair I've recently got feels pretty loose; also, they don't seem to seal that much around my ears.
 Considering these must be original pads - they aren't totally in a bad shape, but shure are a bit stiff - should I expect an upgrade in SQ if I order a replacement pair from Audiocubes2?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xaval* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need a bit of advice. Thanks.

 How tight should Lambdas sit on my head? The pair I've recently got feels pretty loose; also, they don't seem to seal that much around my ears.
 Considering these must be original pads - they aren't totally in a bad shape, but shure are a bit stiff - should I expect an upgrade in SQ if I order a replacement pair from Audiocubes2?_

 

Bewteen minor changes in positioning of the driiver with new pads, a better seal and possibly new foam, I would expect some changes in sound. While the pads are cheaper at Audio cubes, the shipping is higher so they end up costing as much as from Yamasinc.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Does anyone now the difference between HeadAmp's first KGSS (1,500$ I think) and the current ones (2,400$)? I think the price difference must have some justifications.


----------



## spritzer

1500$ was a lot less then Justin should have charged for it based on the parts and work that goes into building a KGSS. I'm not sure what is different though since I've never asked about it.


----------



## justin w.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone now the difference between HeadAmp's first KGSS (1,500$ I think) and the current ones (2,400$)? I think the price difference must have some justifications._

 

The current price is $2295, not $2400

 But here are the differences:
 - DACT attenuators used instead of the cheaper eBay ones
 - Far better assembly quality
 - Almost 6 years of inflation and increased costs of all materials


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The current price is $2295, not $2400

 But here are the differences:
 - DACT attenuators used instead of the cheaper eBay ones
 - Far better assembly quality
 - Almost 6 years of inflation and increased costs of all materials_

 

Congratulations on the BHSE. I floated the price past my wife last night and it was quickly torpedoed. Maybe I can sell enough spare items to dig up the cash.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The current price is $2295, not $2400

 But here are the differences:
 - DACT attenuators used instead of the cheaper eBay ones
 - Far better assembly quality
 - Almost 6 years of inflation and increased costs of all materials_

 

Thanks for the confirmation, Justin.


----------



## freckling

Hi I'm pretty new to the world of Stax, but I'm pretty sure I'll get something in the lambda family. Can anyone enlighten me as to the differences between the lambda, lambda pro, and the lambda signature? Is there a huge difference if I hooked up a lambda pro/signature to a normal bias adapter (e.g. srd-7)? Pro bias adapters are so expensive nowadays.


----------



## freckling

hmm, i've read back a few pages and saw a short discussion of the lambda pros and their midrange suckout? how huge of a difference does bias play? like the difference between an amped and unamped grado 225?


----------



## AudioCats

the lower the bias, the softer the sound (relativly better mids)


----------



## fraseyboy

Brief sound impressions on SR-Gamma Pro out of SRD7-Pro:

 The detail and speed is remarkable, they pretty much achieve what I was looking for in that respect. You can focus on one instrument and just follow that if you want, everything is nicely separated. However, they're are very revealing of badly recorded music, Muse especially sounds bad on them from my experience. In direct comparison, the AD700's sound blurred.

 The soundstage is very big horizontally and positioning is dead accurate. It appears to be even larger than the AD700's. However, they aren't as up-front and 'gradoey' as the AD700's, just a bit more laid back. 

 Midrange is quite good. Not as warm and 'plastickey' as the AD700's, much more neutral. Certainly not recessed and very detailed like the rest of the spectrum. The highs are sparkly and detailed and sound a bit less grainy than the AD700's.

 The bass is very lacking until I start using my LD MK2 as a pre-amp, then it becomes a bit more noticeable. It extends quite deeply, but lacks punch much like the AD700. I have to say though, the AD700's do have more bass punch.

 It's funny, going from the AD700's to the Gamma's is like going from 128k MP3 to FLAC, but I still find the AD700's extremely enjoyable and fun. They're nowhere NEAR as detailed and the separation isn't as good either, but they're still fun to listen to. I sorta prefer the upfrontedness too. The gamma's sound like they're a few rows back.

 Oh also, I think the AD700's may have met there match for comfort. The Gamma's are pretty comfortable. And they don't itch like the AD700's do.

 I'm hoping the Lambda Pro's will give me all of this and more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			









 No, my tubes aren't purple, my camera just see's a different orange to me. But they sure do look cool that way


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Brief sound impressions on SR-Gamma out of SRD7-Pro:

 The detail and speed is remarkable, they pretty much achieve what I was looking for in that respect. You can focus on one instrument and just follow that if you want, everything is nicely separated. However, they're are very revealing of badly recorded music, Muse especially sounds bad on them from my experience. In direct comparison, the AD700's sound blurred.

 The soundstage is very big horizontally and positioning is dead accurate. It appears to be even larger than the AD700's. However, they aren't as up-front and 'gradoey' as the AD700's, just a bit more laid back. 

 Midrange is quite good. Not as warm and 'plastickey' as the AD700's, much more neutral. Certainly not recessed and very detailed like the rest of the spectrum. The highs are sparkly and detailed and sound a bit less grainy than the AD700's.

 The bass is very lacking until I start using my LD MK2 as a pre-amp, then it becomes a bit more noticeable. It extends quite deeply, but lacks punch much like the AD700. I have to say though, the AD700's do have more bass punch.

 It's funny, going from the AD700's to the Gamma's is like going from 128k MP3 to FLAC, but I still find the AD700's extremely enjoyable and fun. They're nowhere NEAR as detailed and the separation isn't as good either, but they're still fun to listen to. I sorta prefer the upfrontedness too. The gamma's sound like they're a few rows back.

 Oh also, I think the AD700's may have met there match for comfort. The Gamma's are pretty comfortable. And they don't itch like the AD700's do.

*I'm hoping the Lambda Pro's will give me all of this and more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*





 No, my tubes aren't purple, my camera just see's a different orange to me. But they sure do look cool that way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Gamma or Gamma Pro?

 My Smeggified Gamma Pro (wood cup / Smegma Pro) give me all this and more.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gamma or Gamma Pro?

 My Smeggified Gamma Pro (wood cup / Smegma Pro) give me all this and more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's a Gamma Pro. Edited.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a Gamma Pro. Edited._

 

My ears would hit the plastic struts in the grill of the Gamma Pro and were uncomfortable. That was the big reason for talking Smeggy into modding mine. The sound was also not as good as the Lambdas in terms of bass and treble extension, and not really better than my SR-5NB gold edition as much as it was different. Now they are closer to an ESP-950.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My ears would hit the plastic struts in the grill of the Gamma Pro and were uncomfortable. That was the big reason for talking Smeggy into modding mine. The sound was also not as good as the Lambdas in terms of bass and treble extension, and not really better than my SR-5NB gold edition as much as it was different. Now they are closer to an ESP-950._

 

How exactly were they modded? I can't mod them, since they're not mine, but still interested to know and maybe webbie64 (owner) will want to get them modded...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How exactly were they modded? I can't mod them, since they're not mine, but still interested to know and maybe webbie64 (owner) will want to get them modded..._

 

You are asking the wrong guy - I don't mod them, I just listen to them.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SwatiShankar* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have spent three days searching for some common reason for this.its help me tnx bro 









_

 

I don't understand your posts, but spamming is gonna get you banned.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Brief sound impressions on SR-Gamma Pro out of SRD7-Pro:

 The detail and speed is remarkable, they pretty much achieve what I was looking for in that respect. You can focus on one instrument and just follow that if you want, everything is nicely separated. However, they're are very revealing of badly recorded music, Muse especially sounds bad on them from my experience. In direct comparison, the AD700's sound blurred.

 The soundstage is very big horizontally and positioning is dead accurate. It appears to be even larger than the AD700's. However, they aren't as up-front and 'gradoey' as the AD700's, just a bit more laid back. 

 Midrange is quite good. Not as warm and 'plastickey' as the AD700's, much more neutral. Certainly not recessed and very detailed like the rest of the spectrum. The highs are sparkly and detailed and sound a bit less grainy than the AD700's.

 The bass is very lacking until I start using my LD MK2 as a pre-amp, then it becomes a bit more noticeable. It extends quite deeply, but lacks punch much like the AD700. I have to say though, the AD700's do have more bass punch.

 It's funny, going from the AD700's to the Gamma's is like going from 128k MP3 to FLAC, but I still find the AD700's extremely enjoyable and fun. They're nowhere NEAR as detailed and the separation isn't as good either, but they're still fun to listen to. I sorta prefer the upfrontedness too. The gamma's sound like they're a few rows back.

 Oh also, I think the AD700's may have met there match for comfort. The Gamma's are pretty comfortable. And they don't itch like the AD700's do.

 I'm hoping the Lambda Pro's will give me all of this and more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








 No, my tubes aren't purple, my camera just see's a different orange to me. But they sure do look cool that way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice to see my new headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And a good succinct review, Fraseyboy. Thanks. It's in keeping with previous reviews on the Gamma Pro strengths and weaknesses and I'm glad you're enjoying those strengths 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And I think, like others, that you wil find the Lambda Pros deliver even more of what you are seeking.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How exactly were they modded? I can't mod them, since they're not mine, but still interested to know and maybe webbie64 (owner) will want to get them modded..._

 

There are two well publicised approaches to modding them, one exceptional and unique - the Smegma Pro, which HeadphoneAddict is (quite justifiably just on their uniqueness let alone the sound he enjoys from them) more than happy to brag about whenever the opportunity arises. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are asking the wrong guy - I don't mod them, I just listen to them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Here's where you'll find more about how they look and sound, sound, sound.

 The other option is really to take the Gamma Pro drivers and re-house them in an SRX-MkIII body to make an SRX-MkIII Pro. These are renowned for the SQ they provide.

 As to what I'll decide to do, let me hear the genuine Gamma Pro first... (after you've had some time with it and your Lambda Pros of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 At least you've got some Stax to relish as the birthday (Lambda Pro) countdown continues.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I also donated a pair of faust2d modded Pro-30 to Smeggy for his hard work, since he isn't an MOT and refused money.


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a Gamma Pro. Edited._

 

nice to see you enjoyed the staxs, and welcome abroad to the crew, I see you dealt with webbie, it seems like hes trying to convert everyone in australia to stax i guess


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_nice to see you enjoyed the staxs, and welcome abroad to the crew, I see you dealt with webbie, it seems like hes trying to convert everyone in australia to stax i guess _

 

One at a time...

 One at a time...

 (only 21,805,672 Aussies to go 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 And then, after Fraseyboy (and remember Carl's already there), we'll look at the remaining 4,173,460 New Zealanders 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## Bullseye

Hi guys, I have a question. How would the STAX SR-X MKIII compare to the Beyerdynamic DT48e?

 EDIT: I am really looking for neutrality and "analytical sound". And I think the DT48E would be my kind of HP, but the stax one I have a nice deal for it.
 EDIT2: I hope someone has heard both, that is


----------



## padam

It is a studio monitor so it is very revealing and the frequency curve is pretty flat, but it lacks deep bass (there is a way to cure that however, if quite complicated and costly as well).


----------



## Bullseye

Szia padam

 So where can I see the frequency curve of this HP. What is that way, just to know its existance. You seem to know a lot of this Stax, have you had these HPs or some Stax?

 I don't know yet if I will be able to buy it (still need to get response), but I am quite interested in trying electrostatic.


----------



## padam

Yes I owned it along with a few others but there are people who are much more experienced than I am. All I know although it was uncomfortable and unforgiving, I still loved it, I am even beginning to miss it.

 If your source isn't up to the job, you may be disappointed, a Normal bias Lambda is much better for starters - I think.

 Are you Hungarian? (PM me if yes)


----------



## Bullseye

Well, I believe that lambda is way more expensive than that one (more than $195). 

 No, I am not hungarian but I know a little (so little it is not even knowing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## padam

Sometimes you may be able to snatch a good deal on eBay but the main problem is that the demand for it is higher for obvious reasons.
 I just wouldn't be very surprised if you were disappointed in the SR-X because it will sound bad if either your source or your speaker amp (or even the quality of the recording) is not good enough for the job.


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys, I have a question. How would the STAX SR-X MKIII compare to the Beyerdynamic DT48e?

 EDIT: I am really looking for neutrality and "analytical sound". And I think the DT48E would be my kind of HP, but the stax one I have a nice deal for it.
 EDIT2: I hope someone has heard both, that is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I had the both of them but sold them both away. My 2 cents worth is that they are difficult to compare - one is dynamic and the other is electrostatic - music is presented differently. I found the DT48e (25ohms out of the B22) to be very detailed and shy in bass (relative to HD600). Sometimes too much details for me that I felt tired listening for more than 15min - 20 minutes. The weight of the headphones was the other issue. It was a little too heavy for me. THe SRX MkIII with SRD7 (out of the B22) was sweet and also shy in bass. Enjoyed them greatly for some types of music, but they were not my preference for some other types of music (faster and punchy type).


----------



## AudioCats

One quick question: the only difference between the 303 and 404 is just the cable, no? or is there more? 

 thanks


----------



## padam

Yes, same drivers


----------



## spritzer

Just the cable.


----------



## Afrikane

I have been out of stats for quite some time now and as a consequence thereof I have a Singlepower ES-1 amp gathering dust in storage; if any of you know of a die-hard stat maven that could fix this amp I would appreciate a PM. 

 I am not looking for any money for it; gratis/free in other words as we all stand to benifit from the knowledge gained from such an exercise.
 As I would prefer that it goes to someone who has contributed significantly to the electostat lore here I reserve the right to choose who takes the amp.

 The amp sort of worked the last time used I used it (when I had a last listen to my sorely missed SR-Ω); the major issue being that the bias drifts a bit requiring a tweak every time it is turned on. I am pretty sure a competent tech could diagnose and fix that issue though, perhaps even improve it a bit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Aesthetically there are a few dings and scratches but nothing too terrible. The amp is wired for 120V. I will include some tubes and adaptors.

*PM ONLY PLEASE*


----------



## tako_tsubo

wow AfriKane, this is a very generous offer!!! Although of course I would like to be considered, I in no way expect it to go my way, as I am not much of a poster. I do have a suggestion tho. Why don't you do a loaner program like has been done by some headfiers and at the other forum? You can pick say *your* top 10 or so head-fi Stax fans and set it out across the world for some of us that would never have the opportunity to hear an ES1. Those in the "loaner program" could do a write up and then you pick the eventual winner...Just a thought.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Wow! Cool beans.


----------



## Afrikane

Tako, it's a nice idea but the die has been cast I am afraid.


----------



## powertoold

May I nominate spritzer


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Other than splitting the cost of shipping I am not looking for any money for it; gratis in other words._

 

wow!

 your generosity as a head-fier is legendary.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_May I nominate spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x0.5


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_May I nominate spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree too.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Reading through the stax forum really gives one the feel that he had contributed a lot.


----------



## fraseyboy

I think the hissing which I am hearing through the Gamma Pro's is in fact from my speaker amp, not the energizer or anything else, since it goes away when the volume on the speaker amp is turned to zero.

 It's quite annoying. Is there any cheap speaker amp which can be used to drive an SRD-7 MK 2 without sounding crap, or would it be cheaper to just try find an SRM-1/MK2?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the hissing which I am hearing through the Gamma Pro's is in fact from my speaker amp, not the energizer or anything else, since it goes away when the volume on the speaker amp is turned to zero.

 It's quite annoying. Is there any cheap speaker amp which can be used to drive an SRD-7 MK 2 without sounding crap, or would it be cheaper to just try find an SRM-1/MK2?_

 

My SRD-7 Mk2 is very easy to drive compared to my K1000. It sounds great with O2 Mk1 and Mk2, Jade, EDP950, HE60 and Lambdas with the following cost effective amps: Travagans Red 5-watts with AD743 opamps, Qinpu A-3 8-watts (from head-direct) and Nuforce Icon 12-watts. The Travagans is a little airier and the A-3 is a little warmer, and the Nuforce is a little bassier (with more prominent mids). For O2, I would take any of these plus an SRD-7 Mk2 or SRD-7 Pro over an SRM-T1 or SRM-1 Mk2 Pro. For anything else the other two were great. Gasp!


----------



## fraseyboy

Ah, cool then. That could be an option in the future if I ever recover from spending that much money on headphones 

 By the way, what is the difference between the SRD-7 Pro and the SRD-7 MK2 anyway? Apart from that the MK2 looks nicer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, cool then. That could be an option in the future if I ever recover from spending that much money on headphones 

 By the way, what is the difference between the SRD-7 Pro and the SRD-7 MK2 anyway? Apart from that the MK2 looks nicer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!_

 

Someone once said the Mk2 has better quality parts, but I have a hard time hearing a difference. My Mk2 has a Pro and Normal Bias jack, and is self biasing. My Pro uses 110v wall plug and has 2 pro bias jacks. The speaker terminals on the back of the Pro allow me to plug in banana plugs and listen to my K1000, while the Mk2 has terminals too small for my to insert the K1000 banana plugs. Most of the time I am using the Pro in my bedroom rig, while the GES is in my living room rig, and the Mk2 is for the basement rig.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone once said the Mk2 has better quality parts, but I have a hard time hearing a difference. My Mk2 has a Pro and Normal Bias jack, and is self biasing. My Pro uses 110v wall plug and has 2 pro bias jacks. The speaker terminals on the back of the Pro allow me to plug in banana plugs and listen to my K1000, while the Mk2 has terminals too small for my to insert the K1000 banana plugs. Most of the time I am using the Pro in my bedroom rig, while the GES is in my living room rig, and the Mk2 is for the basement rig._

 

I see. 

 Do you think there's anything I can can do to minimize hiss from my current speaker amp, like grounding or something? It's pretty high quality (NAD T744). The hiss isn't present in speakers coming direct from the amp.

 Also, I'm using the SRD-7 from the Speaker B outputs, so having speakers plugged in to the SRD-7 itself is not necessary since it's the only thing on Speaker B. All my other speakers are on Speaker A. Would this affect anything?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just the cable._

 

..and, hate to state the obvious, the resultant sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, I'm using the SRD-7 from the Speaker B outputs, so having speakers plugged in to the SRD-7 itself is not necessary since it's the only thing on Speaker B. All my other speakers are on Speaker A. Would this affect anything?_

 

fraseyboy, how about just trying out swapping the SRD-7 to speaker A terminals and your speakers to speaker B terminals? Strictly there shouldn't be a difference but in these sort of situations sometimes it's best to get pedantically methodical to track down the exact cause of the hiss.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree too.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Reading through the stax forum really gives one the feel that he had contributed a lot._

 

I can also think of no greater contributor than spritzer. However I wonder whether he wants an ES-1 when he's so set on his two KGBHs that he's constructing? I guess he could always sell it (perhaps after using it whilst completing the KGBHs - assuming he preferred it to his Supercharged Egmont?)


----------



## The Monkey

Has anyone heard back from Yama's recently?


----------



## spritzer

Well my 717 decided that today was a good day to not switch the relays on the output so something is very wrong inside the amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I powers up and the bias supply works too so either there is too much DC on the output or the relays are fubar. There are also a circuit which senses if there is a short on the signal wiring so that could have triggered. Time to do some fault finding...

 As for the ES-1, Kane's generosity never ceases to amaze me. I did drop him a line since it would be a great opportunity to rebuild one of these amps to their full glory and document what needs to be done for those that will have to service these amps later on. Having seen inside pictures of many of them, they will drop like flies in the future. That is certain.


----------



## tako_tsubo

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/any...xtreme-427519/

 Yea...the community has really pitched in to help in this case.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Singlepower amps are going to see more "outages" and it is a shame. 

 A running record of the innards of the ES1 and its fix/upgrade parts ( will it need any?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) would be very useful to the DIY'ers that are capable of taking on a similar project in the future. 
 Spritzer is certainly capable and knowledgeable in Staxen ways. Whoever does receive this fine gift should at least open it up and take macros.


----------



## spritzer

The good thing about the ES-1 (and ES-2 for that matter since they are identical) is that we know what's wrong with them. The bad part is that it is neither easy to fix nor cheap given the way the amps were built. The case has to be gutted and some holes enlarged plus some new ones drilled.

 Edit: Ohhh and I got the 717 working for now. It appears to be a bit touchy about something so I have to rip it apart...


----------



## Faust2D

ES-1 has one thing going for it, it's a beautiful amp. Sad that so many of the seem to have design and construction issues. It seems however that some were made well and are still working without any issues.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Singlepower ES-1 amp gathering dust in storage; if any of you know of a die-hard stat maven that could use this amp I would appreciate a PM. 

 Other than splitting the cost of shipping I am not looking for any money for it; gratis in other words._

 

Wow! Kane, your generosity have no like around here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 My you find a deserving new home for it, at a dedicated member of "Team Stax"...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: Ohhh and I got the 717 working for now. It appears to be a bit touchy about something so I have to rip it apart..._

 

Duggeh does not like hearing about 717 amps behaving badly. It makes Duggeh fret.


----------



## ironbut

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 As for the ES-1, Kane's generosity never ceases to amaze me. I did drop him a line since it would be a great opportunity to rebuild one of these amps to their full glory and document what needs to be done for those that will have to service these amps later on. Having seen inside pictures of many of them, they will drop like flies in the future. That is certain. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's kind of along the lines I was thinking about spritzer. 
 With the disappearance of Mikhail from the face of the earth, I think that someone either needs to be found or someone here needs to step up to the plate and do their best to learn enough about the SP amps that they'll be able to service and upgrade them in the future. Having the opportunity to open up and live with an ES-1, the big balanced amps , and any "maxed out" SP amp is going to be priceless for anyone with an interest and knowledge to set up such an service.


----------



## Afrikane

Well, the Staxen have spoken and made some very fine nominations for me to consider. Considering the strength of the field this is going to be much harder than I anticipated; it might come down to a poll drawn from a short list if I find myself at an impasse.

 I am calling time on any further nominations, I have serious contenders to mull already and do not wish to drag proceedings on ad nauseam. Thank you for your assistance thus far.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Duggeh does not like hearing about 717 amps behaving badly. It makes Duggeh fret. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ditto. I'm still debating turning it off to check what is actually wrong since it works right now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It only eats about 50w so keeping in on indefinitely is an option.


----------



## antonyfirst

Birgir, are all the 717's prone to fault?


----------



## spritzer

All amps can break down but this the first issue I've ever known about. I just cycled the power on my unit and it worked instantly so it may just have been a Monday thing...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see. 

 Do you think there's anything I can can do to minimize hiss from my current speaker amp, like grounding or something? It's pretty high quality (NAD T744). The hiss isn't present in speakers coming direct from the amp.

 Also, I'm using the SRD-7 from the Speaker B outputs, so having speakers plugged in to the SRD-7 itself is not necessary since it's the only thing on Speaker B. All my other speakers are on Speaker A. Would this affect anything?_

 

How many speakers do you have plugged into the A set of outlets? There should only be one and A should be off when B is on.

 Otherwise it sounds either like 1) an impedance mismatch between the power amp and transformer. Is there an impedance output switch? Or 2) everything's ok but your phones have a treble peak which enhances hiss.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All amps can break down but this the first issue I've ever known about. I just cycled the power on my unit and it worked instantly so it may just have been a Monday thing..._

 

The only problem I had with my 717 was when I first got it - it powered up and immediately blew a fuse. replaced the fuse and no problems since. Maybe a faulty fuse? Hope your amp is OK Spritzer. Maybe your line voltage browned out?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only problem I had with my 717 was when I first got it - it powered up and immediately blew a fuse. replaced the fuse and no problems since. Maybe a faulty fuse? Hope your amp is OK Spritzer. Maybe your line voltage browned out?_

 

No fuse issues since the amp powered up and the bias supply was working but there was no sound. The only time the power system here would ever come close to a brown out is on Christmas Eve but it will never happen, the built in overhead is so immense. My unit also has the original fuse for 100v operation so it is at least 2.3 times too big.


----------



## Afrikane

Spritzer, by dint of garnering the most nominations, and if we are honest, for being the most ardent Staxen this side of Miyoshi-machi, takes the ES-1. 

 Birgir is also well qualified to diagnose ES-1 issues and disseminate such knowledge to other owners. 

 Congratulations then to Birgir.

 Many thanks to those of you who took the time to weigh in with your nominations, I appreciate it.


----------



## J-Pak

Very generous of you Afrikane, Birgir has done _a lot_ for the Stax community


----------



## Afrikane

He has most likely gone off to seek out a Cape Town to Reykjavik bound Knarr


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, by dint of garnering the most nominations, and if we are honest, for being the most ardent Staxen this side of Miyoshi-machi, takes the ES-1. 

 Birgir is also well qualified to diagnose ES-1 issues and disseminate such knowledge to other owners. 

 Congratulations then to Birgir.

 Many thanks to those of you who took the time to weigh in with your nominations, I appreciate it._

 

I would like to applaud both your choice and generosity.


----------



## cclragnarok

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to applaud both your choice and generosity. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2


----------



## Faust2D

Spritzer is the man! Congratulations!


----------



## tako_tsubo

That is very cool AfriKane!
 Congrats Birgir!!!


----------



## edstrelow

Congratulations to Birgir. I had an extended listen to MIKEYMAD's ES1 at CANJAM with the 007, 007A and Sigma/404 and his was a very sweet amp. As I recall he had Mullard tubes (not too sure what these are though).

 Three things really struck me:

 1) the effortless handling of high volume treble (compared to my 717), what was distorted on the 717 was clear on the ES1.

 2) the remarkable differentiation of the source instruments or voice vs the ambience. In visual perception one would talk about "figure" vs "ground." In other words one had a very clear ability to hear these as virtually separate audible entities. 

 Finally 3) the ES1 gave better control of the Sigma/404 to the extent that the difference between it and the 007/007A was considerably reduced(John Buchanan please note). The Sigma/404 became almost as much a detail phone as the 007/007A.

 Comparing the ES1 to the BHSE, the BHSE had more PRAT. It seemed to have a significantly drier, punchier sound. But I didn't get as much time with the BHSE and couldn't really make a good comparison.

 Re: 717 shut-off. Mine did so a few months back. The amp needed to be opened and a few years accumulation of dust blown off the innards. Evidently a thermal protective circuit shut-down.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ditto. I'm still debating turning it off to check what is actually wrong since it works right now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It only eats about 50w so keeping in on indefinitely is an option. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

When I'm in periods of the O2 being the go-to headphone as I cycle through them I leave the 717 on 24/7.


 Congrats also on getting the big black amp!


----------



## The Monkey

A good day for Head-Fi. Afrikane once again shows his remarkable generosity. And spritzer receives well-deserved acknowledgment for patiently sharing his knowledge and helping so many of us get into 'stats. Cheers to both of you.


----------



## dBel84

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to applaud both your choice and generosity. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

agreed ..dB


----------



## spritzer

Thanks a lot Kane. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be checking to see if any of my countrymen are sending a knörr to do some plundering down south... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: 717 shut-off. Mine did so a few months back. The amp needed to be opened and a few years accumulation of dust blown off the innards. Evidently a thermal protective circuit shut-down._

 

That certainly could be the issue. Time to fire up the air compressor...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That certainly could be the issue. Time to fire up the air compressor..._

 

Leave it on! The extra pressure will help push more power out through the headphone socket. Thus 717=BHSE! Trust me, I have a degree! (In social anthropology)


----------



## spritzer

That's not the worst tweak I've ever heard of...


----------



## GearGeek

just known my setup actually has its own official name ^_^

http://www.stax.co.jp/JPG/Sys-W.jpg

 this is my first stax setup, I can not say much about how good it is compare to others staxs (never owned any before)

 but all my audios technicas / sennheisers/akgs.....are definitely going on yahoo auction~
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (will eventually sell everything but a rx700)

 so yes, stax is pretty much perfect for me~

 a lot of time was spent on that old stax thread , and I started to bid for stax phones at around the 20th page ~

 my whole setup is powerbook - echo mona 24 -- srm-t1w ---sr-404

 in the old stax thread , people says the 404 is not as good as the lambda pro or the lambda signature.

 my amp is srm-t1w , so base on my amp can anybody tell if it is worth to upgrade / downgrade to lambda pro or the signature?

 or do I have to upgrade the amp to match anything?

 and why did they stop this whole 5050 thing? quite confusing ....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








 back to the issue with this looooooooooooooong thread~

 it is really really hard to keep up with all this posts,

 maybe, people active in thread should post their individual idea on each set up, or it might be a good idea to start posting about some of the stax more in the regular full sub-forum , I guess the 2020 or 3030 could be just perfect for some of the regular-hi-fiers.

 just some personal opinion.

 Thanks a lot for all this work here.

 best regards

 GearGeek


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GearGeek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_my amp is srm-t1w , so base on my amp can anybody tell if it is worth to upgrade / downgrade to lambda pro or the signature?

 or do I have to upgrade the amp to match anything?

 and why did they stop this whole 5050 thing?_

 

To be honest, only you can decide that. Do you like what you are hearing? Then there is no reason to upgrade, simple as that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Some people do not like the midrange 'etch' developed by the SR-404 but there are several other choices, for example if you would like a relaxed kind of presentation the Lamba Nova Signature (little correction: the T1W and the LNS form the SRS-5050 system together, not the later SR-404) should be a good choice. The Lambda Signature is also interesting, although it can be very aggressive with the T1W. But it is generally a good amp, should match well with other Lambdas, too, like the oldest one, the SR-Lambda which is still regarded as one of the best of the whole family.


----------



## GearGeek

Thanks for your fast reply , will look for and try them one by one ( i am in japan though )
 SR-Λ 
 Sr-A pro
 SR-Λ Signature
 SR-ΛSprit Package
 Lambda Nova Signature
 Lambda Nova CLASSIC 
 sr-404
 sr-404 LTD

 I guess what i list above is pretty much the entire family ~

 SR-ΛSprit Package
 Lambda Nova Signature
 sr-404 LTD

 how does this 3 compare with my sr-404,

 moreover SR-ΛSprit Package , is the SR-ΛSprit a different product again? or a copy of one of the old SR-Λ (this is all really confusing )

 btw how long can a electrostatic phone last ?

 Thanks a lot


----------



## padam

I suggest to read more in this thread, but here is a comparison:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/4733161-post8106.html

 If you treat it carefully, it may go on forever


----------



## dcpoor

congrats to spritzer and applause for Afrikane's generosity.


----------



## leaf

Very generous of you AfriKane! and congratulations to Spritzer.


----------



## Nuge

Is there a good Stax headphone out there, with sparkling highs, slightly forward, warm mids and deep, high-impact bass at about 500 dollars lol? I really want something aggressive but NOT as aggressive as grado.I want something that is good for electronic/alternative/dance/hip hop.


----------



## leaf

Is there a full review written somewhere on the different presentations of the 4 electrostatic amps (BHSE, Woo WES, A-10 and Frank Cooter's electrostatic amp) displayed at canjam? There have been comments written here and there but I am unable to find an all in one article/posts review so far. I might have missed it. Can anyone direct me to that page please, if there is one?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there a full review written somewhere on the different presentations of the 4 electrostatic amps (BHSE, Woo WES, A-10 and Frank Cooter's electrostatic amp) displayed at canjam? There have been comments written here and there but I am unable to find an all in one article/posts review so far. I might have missed it. Can anyone direct me to that page please, if there is one?_

 

That was impossible to do with them all in different rooms with different phones. Here is what I can say.

 The KGBH SE - I only heard it with O2 Mk1 and it was the best with those. I have never felt that kind of solid foundation to the sound from the power that it had to offer. I felt like I was driving a 500 hp muscle car at 55mph on the highway and never really opened her up.

 The Woo WES I heard with O2 Mk2 and it was the best amp with the Mk2 (because I skipped the Mk2 on KGBH). The Jade off the WES were not as good as the O2 Mk2, or as good as the Jade on the A-10 or ES-2 that I tried. It just seemed duller to me than mine at home or in the other rooms. The Mk2 on the WES did surprise me very much - nice! Considering the prototype was limited in power and voltage swing to GES levels, I was pleased with it.

 The RSA A-10 sounded better with Jade than O2 Mk2, and the Jade on A-10 were better than Jade on WES, and A-10 was even better with HE90. The HE60 Ray had were too bright and didn't do it for me (modded).

 The HE90/Jade/O2/O1 off the ES-2 (neilvg or bublis rig) were all very nice. I think the A-10 did the HE-90 a little better.

 I missed Frank's amp - I have no other impressions other than what I wrote down - just not enough time.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A good day for Head-Fi. Afrikane once again shows his remarkable generosity. And spritzer receives well-deserved acknowledgment for patiently sharing his knowledge and helping so many of us get into 'stats. Cheers to both of you._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to applaud both your choice and generosity. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

X 3. Two outstanding Stax-ophiles helping us all with the sharing of equipment and knowledge. Congrats spritzer and thanks Afrikane.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How many speakers do you have plugged into the A set of outlets? There should only be one and A should be off when B is on.

 Otherwise it sounds either like 1) an impedance mismatch between the power amp and transformer. Is there an impedance output switch? Or 2) everything's ok but your phones have a treble peak which enhances hiss._

 

The A set has 5 speakers plugged into it. I always turn A off when B is on.

 There is no impedance output switch. There is a speaker setting in the OSD which allows you to switch between small and large speakers, but it doesn't seem to make a difference to anything. So I guess it must just be a treble peak in the Gamma's?

 I suppose all will become clear when I get the Lambda Pro's.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suppose all will become clear when I get the Lambda Pro's._

 

I understand all doesn't become truly clear until you have a KGBH-SE and O2 Mk1


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, by dint of garnering the most nominations, and if we are honest, for being the most ardent Staxen this side of Miyoshi-machi, takes the ES-1. 

 Birgir is also well qualified to diagnose ES-1 issues and disseminate such knowledge to other owners. 

 Congratulations then to Birgir.

 Many thanks to those of you who took the time to weigh in with your nominations, I appreciate it._

 

Birgir Congrats!!!!!!!!


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was impossible to do with them all in different rooms with different phones. Here is what I can say.

 The KGBH SE - I only heard it with O2 Mk1 and it was the best with those. I have never felt that kind of solid foundation to the sound from the power that it had to offer. I felt like I was driving a 500 hp muscle car at 55mph on the highway and never really opened her up.

 The Woo WES I heard with O2 Mk2 and it was the best amp with the Mk2 (because I skipped the Mk2 on KGBH). The Jade off the WES were not as good as the O2 Mk2, or as good as the Jade on the A-10 or ES-2 that I tried. It just seemed duller to me than mine at home or in the other rooms. The Mk2 on the WES did surprise me very much - nice! Considering the prototype was limited in power and voltage swing to GES levels, I was pleased with it.

 The RSA A-10 sounded better with Jade than O2 Mk2, and the Jade on A-10 were better than Jade on WES, and A-10 was even better with HE90. The HE60 Ray had were too bright and didn't do it for me (modded).

 The HE90/Jade/O2/O1 off the ES-2 (neilvg or bublis rig) were all very nice. I think the A-10 did the HE-90 a little better.

 I missed Frank's amp - I have no other impressions other than what I wrote down - just not enough time._

 

Thanks for the summary of the 3 electrostatic amps.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Wonder what the Woo will sound like with more power! Read somewhere that it is running the stat phones on 400v for the prototype but the production models will be increased by double - but I stand corrected.


----------



## spritzer

Thanks guys.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Afrikane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, by dint of garnering the most nominations, and if we are honest, for being the most ardent Staxen this side of Miyoshi-machi, takes the ES-1._

 

Congratulations Birgir! Well deserved...
 ...and hats off to Kane for this very generous gesture.


----------



## SoliloCey

Has everyone seen that fantastic bargain on ebay? Stax SR-44 for US$44!! damn...


----------



## Duggeh

That's not a fantastic bargain. $30 for an SR-3N is a bargain


----------



## catscratch

Congrats Birgir, there really is no better home for the amp and giving it to you is really a service to the community. Keep us posted.

 I guess I could also praise Afrikane for his generosity, but really, what words will suffice? What do we say? Babbling about it is completely pointless so I will just quietly raise a toast in his honor. You, sir, are the man.


----------



## malldian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has everyone seen that fantastic bargain on ebay? Stax SR-44 for US$44!! damn..._

 

They have now, thanks!


----------



## Mister Crash

I just received an Omega 2 Mk I in the mail today, which I will compare against an O2 Mk II that came last week. The Mk II is almost new, while the Mk I has been used quite a bit. The headband for the Mk II is quite tight, while the headband for the Mk I is very loose - so loose it's distracting.

 Does anyone know where I could get a replacement headband for the O2 Mk I? I tried checking Audiocubes2, and saw several replacement Stax headbands, but none for the O2. Similarly, Yama's Inc. had no O2 headbands listed. Would another model headphone have the same headband?


----------



## leaf

You could try kuboten - Craig. Really nice person to deal with.


----------



## catscratch

Also get new pads for that Mk1; pad condition really matters and while the leather will last forever the inner foam only lasts for a year or so. Even a few millimeters of driver-ear distance will make a difference in sound and pad condition directly affects that.

 Second KuboTen, that's where I got my O2 and Craig is awesome to do business with.


----------



## spritzer

The elastic on the Mk1 is much looser fitting then on the Mk2 so they shouldn't be too tight on the head. I would also check if the arc's haven't been adjusted for a former owner as that will affect the fit too.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoliloCey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has everyone seen that fantastic bargain on ebay? Stax SR-44 for US$44!! damn..._

 

Not me!
 But then again I am not interested and have not searched eBay to find it...


----------



## chi2

If the headband is too loose for you, you could just shorten it. Very easily done. For me the MK I did fit perfectly, the MK II however was much too tight. I had to buy an elastic with similar properties and make a band of it that was about 4 cm longer. Together with bending the arcs of the MK II this didn't only help to improve the fit but the sound, too. First I almost couldn't stand them, now I find them quite decent. Still, most of the time I prefer the MK I or, more recently, the 4070.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mister Crash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received an Omega 2 Mk I in the mail today, which I will compare against an O2 Mk II that came last week. The Mk II is almost new, while the Mk I has been used quite a bit. The headband for the Mk II is quite tight, while the headband for the Mk I is very loose - so loose it's distracting.

 Does anyone know where I could get a replacement headband for the O2 Mk I? I tried checking Audiocubes2, and saw several replacement Stax headbands, but none for the O2. Similarly, Yama's Inc. had no O2 headbands listed. Would another model headphone have the same headband?_


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mister Crash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received an Omega 2 Mk I in the mail today, which I will compare against an O2 Mk II that came last week. The Mk II is almost new, while the Mk I has been used quite a bit. The headband for the Mk II is quite tight, while the headband for the Mk I is very loose - so loose it's distracting.

 Does anyone know where I could get a replacement headband for the O2 Mk I? I tried checking Audiocubes2, and saw several replacement Stax headbands, but none for the O2. Similarly, Yama's Inc. had no O2 headbands listed. Would another model headphone have the same headband?_

 


 I echo the recommendations to contact kuboten for a new headband and new pads. I got new pads and headband through kuboten for my O2 mk1 and they made a big difference. You also might want to look into getting a replacment arc assembly, but that can be significantly harder to come by--though not impossible.

 EDIT: and Yama's has been useless in my experience.


----------



## kinsale

Hi all

 What is everybody's opinion of the SR202 Basic system. I got it to replace my SR-X MKIII and am not sure I made the right decision. I find it dare I say boring? Was I spoiled by the SRX MKIII? I have them (SRX MKIII) up for sale but am not sure I want to let them go now. I find myself not enjoying the music as much. 
 Can anyone comment as to why this would be? Is the amp that comes with this system not good enough? Will a better amp make these headphones better?
 I know lots of questions but I am a little lost right now.


----------



## DC5Zilla

Auditioned Stax SR303 today... They sounded great but more over I was impressed by its comfort!! Man, these are the most comfortable headphones I've ever used!!! Even better than beyers to be honest. But I think they lack alot on build quality... so many flimsy plastics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 do 404 limited have better build?


----------



## SoliloCey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DC5Zilla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Auditioned Stax SR303 today... They sounded great but more over I was impressed by its comfort!! Man, these are the most comfortable headphones I've ever used!!! Even better than beyers to be honest. But I think they lack alot on build quality... so many flimsy plastics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 do 404 limited have better build?_

 

Not that I know of they're practically the same thing but with a different cable.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone comment as to why this would be? Is the amp that comes with this system not good enough? Will a better amp make these headphones better?
 I know lots of questions but I am a little lost right now._

 

You might prefer a more in-your-face kind of presentation. A better amp will surely make the SR-202 better but it will not change the way of presentation, but a better amp also makes the SR-X Mk3 better! You just need one with a Normal bias connector (I used it with T1S, sounded great). Also the SR-X reacts to a better source very well.


----------



## Currawong

Lambda's are rather freakishly light and delicate the the first time you encounter them. A good reminder to take care of your gear though.


----------



## Michgelsen

But they last amazingly long.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

I am kind of suprised that Yama Stax did not have a booth or room at this years CanJam 2009. In looking at the map of the Los Angeles area- Gardenia Ca does not look to far from the Hilton LAX. Anyone have any information on this? Although, now it is too late. Scottsmrnyc


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DC5Zilla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Auditioned Stax SR303 today... They sounded great but more over I was impressed by its comfort!! Man, these are the most comfortable headphones I've ever used!!! Even better than beyers to be honest. But I think they lack alot on build quality... so many flimsy plastics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 do 404 limited have better build?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda's are rather freakishly light and delicate the the first time you encounter them. A good reminder to take care of your gear though._

 

They sure seem flimsy, and then you realize they're over 20 years old in many cases, which is why the build quality of the SR303 doesn't bother me. They're deceptively robust.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But they last amazingly long._

 

Yup. And they can be repaired and parts replaced pretty easily.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scottsmrnyc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am kind of suprised that Yama Stax did not have a booth or room at this years CanJam 2009. In looking at the map of the Los Angeles area- Gardenia Ca does not look to far from the Hilton LAX. Anyone have any information on this? Although, now it is too late. Scottsmrnyc_

 

In my time here at HF, I do not recall Stax giving us the time of day.


----------



## manaox2

I'm looking at the glass half full in that Stax do not have a huge demand on head-fi to drive up prices, which they likely would if it became more popularly consumerized as things tend to do here. Its amazing when thirty year old headphones seems to best a large majority of modern headphones under four figures in speed and detail. You would have to pay a lot more to beat the quality of the Lambda's in most areas with other headphones IMO.

 BTW, the Smyth realizer seems to be able to equalize out the etch of the lambdas. I really would lavish the day a plugin for something like foobar came out that could do that with use of a cheaper tool for stereo.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...Stax do not have a huge demand on head-fi to drive up prices, which they likely would if it became more popularly consumerized as things tend to do here._

 

That happened more than 2 years ago I'm afraid.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my time here at HF, I do not recall Stax giving us the time of day._

 

I'm pretty sure that Yama's were at both the 2007 and 2008 CJ.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That happened more than 2 years ago I'm afraid._

 

I can tell there has been a lot of commotion. When I first joined in 2007, I definitely had the feeling the Stax mafia were looking down on dynamics and they were rabid for them and that seems to have died down a little, but may be picking up again. Luckily, it seems Japan doesn't care too much for the vintage versions. Lambda pros pop up all the time, lambda sigs are still to be found fairly commonly, but the original Lambda really doesn't pop up more then once a month almost ever it seems (at least since February).


----------



## alwayshungry

I am new to STAX, but after listening to a few rigs at CanJam I recently purchased a pair of SR303s and I'm looking for an amplifier solution. I recently built a B22 (I've been getting spoiled) and I'm finishing it with speaker outputs so I was considering buying a used SRD-7/PRO or MKII and running it off of the speaker outs from the B22. My other option would be to buy a dedicated STAX amp such as a SRM 323.
 Can anybody share their opinions on which would be a better sounding setup?
 Also I understand that the SR303s are pro bias but are compatible with normal bias outputs. Would running them through a normal biased amp/energizer make a big difference compared to pro bias?
 Thanks for any advice.


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alwayshungry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am new to STAX, but after listening to a few rigs at CanJam I recently purchased a pair of SR303s and I'm looking for an amplifier solution. I recently built a B22 (I've been getting spoiled) and I'm finishing it with speaker outputs so I was considering buying a used SRD-7/PRO or MKII and running it off of the speaker outs from the B22. My other option would be to buy a dedicated STAX amp such as a SRM 323.
 Can anybody share their opinions on which would be a better sounding setup?
 Also I understand that the SR303s are pro bias but are compatible with normal bias outputs. Would running them through a normal biased amp/energizer make a big difference compared to pro bias?
 Thanks for any advice._

 

Used SRD-7/PRO or MKII are hard to come by. But don't be deterred, and continue prowling.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that Yama's were at both the 2007 and 2008 CJ._

 

Really? I don't recall them being at 2008 CJ, but I don't exactly recall all that much from that whole weekend.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Could someone confirm?


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Spritzer- Yes they were at Canjam 2007 and 2008. It just seems odd that they Yama is located less than 15 miles away from the LAX Hilton and they did not attend? I put in an inquiry to Yama but they did not respond. It's not such a big deal as there were many DIYers who brought Stax to Camjam 2009. I myself brought my Stax 4070s and my SRDX Pro; so I was able to walk around the whole Canjam 2009 with them. Enjoy Scottsmrnyc


----------



## dvse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi all

 What is everybody's opinion of the SR202 Basic system. I got it to replace my SR-X MKIII and am not sure I made the right decision. I find it dare I say boring? Was I spoiled by the SRX MKIII? I have them (SRX MKIII) up for sale but am not sure I want to let them go now. I find myself not enjoying the music as much. 
 Can anyone comment as to why this would be? Is the amp that comes with this system not good enough? Will a better amp make these headphones better?
 I know lots of questions but I am a little lost right now._

 

I think something similar was discussed at length in this thread:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/lon...sode-i-172611/

 The sound of Lambda series headphones is not to everybody's liking and is very different from SR-X. If you want a genuine upgrade you would probably have to go with SR-007.

 I personally prefer SR-X/SRM-313 to SR-202/KGSS for most things.


----------



## johnmatrix

Having owned the Sr-XmkIII and now the o2mk1, the o2 is the like a Sr-x mkIII with none of its flaws. The o2s have bass, soundstage while retaining the toe tapping fun of the Sr-x. I almost think the stax designers went back to the vault and ignored the sound from the lambda series. If you don't want to spend the money on the o2, keep the Sr-X and upgrade the source and the amp.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Used SRD-7/PRO or MKII are hard to come by. But don't be deterred, and continue prowling._

 

One in the FS forum right now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...-7-pro-429135/


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think something similar was discussed at length in this thread:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/lon...sode-i-172611/

 The sound of Lambda series headphones is not to everybody's liking and is very different from SR-X. If you want a genuine upgrade you would probably have to go with SR-007.

 I personally prefer SR-X/SRM-313 to SR-202/KGSS for most things._

 

That thread pretty much summed up how I feel about the SR-202. They are just not as much fun. I have put them up for sale and will be keeping my SRX MK3. I'll upgrade the power amp as and when I can.


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having owned the Sr-XmkIII and now the o2mk1, the o2 is the like a Sr-x mkIII with none of its flaws. The o2s have bass, soundstage while retaining the toe tapping fun of the Sr-x. I almost think the stax designers went back to the vault and ignored the sound from the lambda series. If you don't want to spend the money on the o2, keep the Sr-X and upgrade the source and the amp._

 

OK I kept the MK3. So now while I'm happily listening what should I be thinking of for an upgrade. My system is as follows;
 Itunes(320k) > HotAudio USB DAC > Qinpu Q2 > SRD7>SRX MK3

 Where's the best bang for the buck. 

 I've also never seen the O2 MK1 for sale. Are they rare?


----------



## The Monkey

The O2 mk1 comes up for sale regularly here and on audiogon.


----------



## leaf

Duplicate posts, mod pls delete. Thanks.


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I kept the MK3. So now while I'm happily listening what should I be thinking of for an upgrade. My system is as follows;
 Itunes(320k) > HotAudio USB DAC > Qinpu Q2 > SRD7>SRX MK3

 Where's the best bang for the buck. 

 I've also never seen the O2 MK1 for sale. Are they rare?_

 

They are not as common in that they do not come up for sale every other week but one was recently sold. 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...-uk-eu-428970/

 Depending on the condition and the price, they can get snapped up quite quickly. The one that was just sold, was advertised for sale at US$1,100 I believe.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've also never seen the O2 MK1 for sale. Are they rare?_

 

They do not come up all that often, but not too rarely either. Some:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...07-mki-411766/
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/st...rgiser-391119/
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...dphone-376027/
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/sa...unused-331877/
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...7t-amp-419511/
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...-uk-eu-428970/


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I kept the MK3. So now while I'm happily listening what should I be thinking of for an upgrade. My system is as follows;
 Itunes(320k) > HotAudio USB DAC > Qinpu Q2 > SRD7>SRX MK3

*Where's the best bang for the buck.* 

 I've also never seen the O2 MK1 for sale. Are they rare?_

 

You already have the best bang for the buck. Maybe if you get a good deal on an SR-Lambda you'll be happier.


----------



## Currawong

I have the SR-5NB, which I am told use the same drivers as the SR-X, and I found that with the old version of the 007t amp, the result is one of the most engaging rigs I've ever had. So, my thought is, a better amp might be a better investment than trying to find O2s, which you'll just end up under-driving.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alwayshungry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am new to STAX, but after listening to a few rigs at CanJam I recently purchased a pair of SR303s and I'm looking for an amplifier solution. I recently built a B22 (I've been getting spoiled) and I'm finishing it with speaker outputs so I was considering buying a used SRD-7/PRO or MKII and running it off of the speaker outs from the B22. My other option would be to buy a dedicated STAX amp such as a SRM 323.
 Can anybody share their opinions on which would be a better sounding setup?
 Also I understand that the SR303s are pro bias but are compatible with normal bias outputs. Would running them through a normal biased amp/energizer make a big difference compared to pro bias?
 Thanks for any advice._

 

You tend to lose a lot of the dynamics when you run a Pro phone on a low bias set-up. The only pro phones I feel work well on a low bias system are the SR005.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That thread pretty much summed up how I feel about the SR-202. They are just not as much fun. I have put them up for sale and will be keeping my SRX MK3. I'll upgrade the power amp as and when I can._

 

The amp may be underpowered for really good listening with any of the Lambdas. You might get better results with a bigger transformer to power the amp, this one uses a walwart, I believe. I used to get better results with my Koss E9/950 by driving it with a large, but inexpensive bench supply versus the supplied walwart. The real class amps for Stax often have a separate power supply.

 The SR005 runs pretty well through a smaller amp and even on a low bias amp.


----------



## johnmatrix

Kinsale,

 I would suggest upgrading your amp or source. The O2mk1 are brutally revealing and will let you know if there are any weakness. Likewise, the Sr-x will still scale with the new equipment. What's your budget?


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kinsale,

 I would suggest upgrading your amp or source. The O2mk1 are brutally revealing and will let you know if there are any weakness. Likewise, the Sr-x will still scale with the new equipment. What's your budget?_

 

My budget is not really suitable for this forum LOL. I have $500 to spend on either a DAC or power Amp. I'm stuck with a laptop as source as I do most of my listening at work for 8 hours.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My budget is not really suitable for this forum LOL. I have $500 to spend on either a DAC or power Amp. I'm stuck with a laptop as source as I do most of my listening at work for 8 hours._

 

Believe it or not, a Travagans Green USB DAC amp with 5-watt speaker out and an SRD-7 Pro can drive an O2 Mk2 very nicely and sounds very nice to my ears. You can get the amp for $190 and the SRD-7 Pro comes up occasionally for $300-400. It is the cheapest setup that can come close to reasonably driving Stax O2 from a laptop. I even talked Blutarsky into one, although he then sold me his O2 Mk1 (but still has ESP950 and SR-Lambda to drive with it).


----------



## johnmatrix

Kinsale,

 Upgrade your source first, the music starts there. I am not sure what DACs to get as I use CD players.


----------



## j2kei

after hearing and really liking the sound of stax at canjam, ive been interesting in getting into sta. i was wondering if anyone has written a faq or anything about stax? a simple guide/walkthrough saying difference between pro and normal bias (not just the difference in voltage and pins, but sound?), difference between lambda, lambda pro, lambda signature, 202, 303, 404? something like multiple variations of lambda pro? energizer?

 so far my understanding of stax is pretty limited. all i understand is stax requires energizer to power it, which could be a SRD7 amped by speaker amp (power amp?) or amplifier made for electrostats. all the pro, normal bias, and different variation with same model name really confuses me.

 thanks


----------



## plaidplatypus

Right, the SRD-7 hooks up to a speaker amp. STAX only makes SRM amps now so you can only find SRD adapters used. Take note SRD-7 and SRD-7/SB are normal bias so you will not be getting the most out of pro bias earspeakers with those. The SRD-7 Professional has two pro biased jacks and the SRD-7 MKII has one normal, one pro bias. You can't plug normal bias (6-pin) earspeakers into a pro bias (5-pin) jack.

 Read through this entire thread if you want to know about the sound of a particular earspeaker. All of the Lambda-type earspeakers sound similar but everyone has their favorite. The original normal bias SR-Lambda has the least amount of sonic quirks, best mids, and usually is the best value too. The Lambda Professional can be a good value if you plan on staying with all pro bias gear. If you want super-sparkley highs get the Lambda Signature. I haven't spent much time with the SR-x0x line but I've tried the SR-404, it is more lambda style goodness and their drivers stuffed into an old SR-Sigma make for a nice treat.

 With a nice amp Omegas are wonderful especially for vocals but they don't have the pronounced highs of the Lambdas. I think the Omegas are more Hi-Fi but I can understand why Lambdas get so much love, I'm getting to get a couple pairs today.


----------



## leaf

I have been looking for SRD 7 pro or mk 2 for a while and 2 came up for sale in audiogon yesterday. Guess what, both have already been sold. It pains me to see that it was so close yet so far.


----------



## Rhinosaur

You could also try using this excellent page to search through some of head-fi's megathreads to find what you want. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Been very helpful for me.

Home / Head-Fi Megathreads


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *j2kei* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ a simple guide/walkthrough saying difference between pro and normal bias (not just the difference in voltage and pins, but sound?), difference between lambda, lambda pro, lambda signature, 202, 303, 404? something like multiple variations of lambda pro? energizer?
_

 

I've found nothing is so simple when it comes to Staxen, but there is much wisdom in this thread. And faust's wikiphonia is pretty great.


----------



## manaox2

I am hoping to attempt modifying my SRD-7SB to an mkII. I'm sure its cheaper then trying to find one by far.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am hoping to attempt modifying my SRD-7SB to an mkII. I'm sure its cheaper then trying to find one by far._

 

The size of the transformers inside it will make it take much longer to charge up a phone to Pro bias than a SRD-7 Mk2 SB that came from the factory as pro-bias, but it can work.


----------



## ericj

After much deliberation, I am joining Team Babystax. Just agreed to buy a slightly used SR-001 Mk2 kit from a guy on craigslist.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The size of the transformers inside it will make it take much longer to charge up a phone to Pro bias than a SRD-7 Mk2 SB that came from the factory as pro-bias, but it can work._

 

What? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That makes no sense Larry and it should be no problem to modify. Most SB's have a third transformer which steps up the voltage off the audio transformer even higher but all of the Stax bias supplies are limited to a 100v input so a Pro or a normal bias unit makes no difference. It's also easy to grab a drill and add a small hole to fit a power cable.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After much deliberation, I am joining Team Babystax. Just agreed to buy a slightly used SR-001 Mk2 kit from a guy on craigslist._

 

The SR-001 sounds great but I can't bear its discomfort


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After much deliberation, I am joining Team Babystax. Just agreed to buy a slightly used SR-001 Mk2 kit from a guy on craigslist._

 

I hope you like it as much as I like mine. However, you do, I hope, realize
 that it just the beginning of the madness.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-001 sounds great but I can't bear its discomfort 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I never understtod that complaint since all you have to do is bend the metal headband to reduce the pressure on the ears. You can have them so loose that they nearly fall off.


----------



## jgazal

Hello everybody!

 I am not having my best financial time right now and importation taxes in Brazil are really high (prohibitive 60% including price and freight) so I was wondering if Stax affordable headphones like SR-303 would be a good choice to be amplified with a DIY amplifier.

 I was also imagining why to spend much more than this if these people here (HEAD acoustics - NVH Division - Playback Systems - Power Amplifier for Electrostatic Headphones PVA IV.3 - Recommended components) are working with SR-303 to make noise professional Sound analysis and optimization and Vibration measurement technology...

 Shouldn’t SR-303 be as precise as O2 mk2?

 I know people will tell me that O2 mk2 sound different, have real leather, top quality structure etc, but does it sound more real than SR-303 when listening to acoustic recordings with lots of ambience and no need of “bass slam”?

 Thanks in advance.

 Jose Luis


----------



## The Monkey

You're working too hard to convince yourself of something. The SR-303 are great phones for the money. Hell, they're great period in my opinion. No, I don't think they're as good or as precise as the O2 mk2, but so what. You still get a lot for a lot less.

 Now tell us more about this DIY amplifier...


----------



## jgazal

There is nothing special about the amplifier. 

 My intention is to go after some straightforward design from John Broskie at Tube Cad Journal (The Tube CAD Journal, Electrostatic Headphones and The Tube CAD Journal, Electrostatic Headphones Amps -Part 2-) with a little help from someone who had already built a tube amplifier.

 I would not make more than that because I am not electric engineer…

 Thanks,

 Jose Luis


----------



## The Monkey

I, for one, would be interested in how it turns out. Please keep us posted.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 That makes no sense Larry and it should be no problem to modify. Most SB's have a third transformer which steps up the voltage off the audio transformer even higher but all of the Stax bias supplies are limited to a 100v input so a Pro or a normal bias unit makes no difference. It's also easy to grab a drill and add a small hole to fit a power cable._

 

I could have sworn that's what audiocats told me - my modded SRD-7SB takes longer to charge pro-bias phones than my SRD-7 Mk2 does. I guess I could be wrong.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jgazal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is nothing special about the amplifier. 

 My intention is to go after some straightforward design from John Broskie at Tube Cad Journal (The Tube CAD Journal, Electrostatic Headphones and The Tube CAD Journal, Electrostatic Headphones Amps -Part 2-) with a little help from someone who had already built a tube amplifier.

 I would not make more than that because I am not electric engineer…

 Thanks,

 Jose Luis_

 

It's a good basic design but you can certainly do better then that for not much more money. I've just started testing my own version of this amp and it is very promising, but it uses far better tubes then the 6CG7/6SN7. They have no place in electrostatic amps (at least as output tubes) given their limited voltage handling. 

 As for the SR-303, it isn't a bad headphone but the midrange honk makes them worthless to me. The SR-007 Mk2 has the same problem though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I could have sworn that's what audiocats told me - my modded SRD-7SB takes longer to charge pro-bias phones than my SRD-7 Mk2 does. I guess I could be wrong._

 

There should be no reason for this to happen. Both bias supplies use the same input voltage and the current here is very low, a couple of uA's so that's not a problem. I have no knowledge of what mods were done to your adapter but putting in a different Stax bias supply shouldn't have that effect.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 There should be no reason for this to happen. Both bias supplies use the same input voltage and the current here is very low, a couple of uA's so that's not a problem. I have no knowledge of what mods were done to your adapter but putting in a different Stax bias supply shouldn't have that effect._

 

Hmmm... It does take several minutes for the SB caps to charge up and completely charge a pro-bias phone.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

question for the stax Gods, and/or mafia... which doesn't exist.. 

 Background: I am running, stax sr-lambdas >srd7-sb>Yamaha 2020 integrated amp>Phillips SACD 1000 or Pioneer PL-50 turntable with a denon 110 cart. it has taken some time, but I believe I have built up some nice components here. 

 situation: I went with acquiring a vintage stax system, because from what I read, it had all that I wanted. I purposely got the original lambdas because they are reported as being the most balanced. When I got the energizer and cans, I was running them through some pretty inferior equipment and sources. I noticed an upper midrange "peak" that was not pleasing. it sits of course, in the high range for men, and the low/strong area for women. these two areas, I love. I am now running much better equipment, with similar result.

 Question: my question is this.. with what I am running, the peak is pretty strong, and a bit piercing at times. is there something I can do to mellow this? everything else about the sound is quite nice. am I running too much solid state equipment to get the warmth that I want? do I need to have tubes? This process has surprised me, as I really thought running everything through the yamaha would fix the balance. I await with bated breath, your suggestions.


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I am now running much better equipment, with similar result.

 Question: my question is this.. with what I am running, the peak is pretty strong, and a bit piercing at times. is there something I can do to mellow this? everything else about the sound is quite nice. am I running too much solid state equipment to get the warmth that I want? do I need to have tubes? This process has surprised me, as I really thought running everything through the yamaha would fix the balance. I await with bated breath, your suggestions._

 

Perhaps you could elaborate on "much better equipment" for a fuller equipment picture.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps you could elaborate on "much better equipment" for a fuller equipment picture._

 

I'll snap some pics later if you wish, but I figured the equipment list would suffice. Regardless of my old vs new equipment, I am still experiencing the upper mid peak. I guess I am also asking if anyone else has found this peak to exist, and what setup has helped the issue.


----------



## FrankCooter

I'm the builder of the big DIY transmitting tube electrostatic amp that was exhibited at CanJam. Earlier in this thread there was speculation that this amp would cost $15,000. The actual construction costs were about $1,500. About $300.00 of that was in the fancy chassis materials. As much as possible, this amp was built with common "off the shelf", used,recycled, or surplus components. The sole exception being the custom Electra-Print output transformers, which ran about $350.00 for the pair. I could never afford the $5k for a top ranked electrostatic amp. This isn't a $5k amp, but it's not embarressed by one either. I'd like to encourage other DIYers to "push the envelope", and would be happy to answer questions or discuss the design. I've had a lot of positive comments. Thanks to all. It's very encouraging. The final design of this amp is still in flux. There is also a much more "sane" kt88 based little brother in progress. When the design is finished and proven, I'll post it in the DIY forum.


----------



## The Monkey

You, sir, rock. I've heard only awesome things about your amps.


----------



## IPodPJ

The pics on here don't do it justice. It was just stunning in real life. The few times I went over to it there was no one there and I didn't want to mess with it but I sure wanted to hear it.


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to encourage other DIYers to "push the envelope", and would be happy to answer questions or discuss the design._

 


 i think you have already done that. i heard that your dynamic amp - the one with separate power units for each channel - was beyond outstanding. 

 what is the rough cost of that one?

 this is the one.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_question for the stax Gods, and/or mafia... which doesn't exist.. 

 Background: I am running, stax sr-lambdas >srd7-sb>Yamaha 2020 integrated amp>Phillips SACD 1000 or Pioneer PL-50 turntable with a denon 110 cart. it has taken some time, but I believe I have built up some nice components here. 

 situation: I went with acquiring a vintage stax system, because from what I read, it had all that I wanted. I purposely got the original lambdas because they are reported as being the most balanced. When I got the energizer and cans, I was running them through some pretty inferior equipment and sources. I noticed an upper midrange "peak" that was not pleasing. it sits of course, in the high range for men, and the low/strong area for women. these two areas, I love. I am now running much better equipment, with similar result.

 Question: my question is this.. with what I am running, the peak is pretty strong, and a bit piercing at times. is there something I can do to mellow this? everything else about the sound is quite nice. am I running too much solid state equipment to get the warmth that I want? do I need to have tubes? This process has surprised me, as I really thought running everything through the yamaha would fix the balance. I await with bated breath, your suggestions._

 

Try Silclear on the phone pins. Actually put it on all contacts, plugs,IC's etc. It will boost the bass and generally smooth out the sound. It's about $30.00 for a lifetime supply from Mapleshade. This stuff really works for me. Send me a pm and an SSA envelope and I'll shoot you a sample.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When the design is finished and proven, I'll post it in the DIY forum._

 

That is really awesome news! It may not have been $15k, but it looks the part. Where do I go to subscribe to your journal?


----------



## fraseyboy

Yay! Lambda Pro's tomorrow!

 Will be sure to post a comparison with the Gamma Pro's then, if I'm in a good mood, I'll ship them off to you, Webbie


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm the builder of the big DIY transmitting tube electrostatic amp that was exhibited at CanJam. Earlier in this thread there was speculation that this amp would cost $15,000. The actual construction costs were about $1,500. About $300.00 of that was in the fancy chassis materials. As much as possible, this amp was built with common "off the shelf", used,recycled, or surplus components. The sole exception being the custom Electra-Print output transformers, which ran about $350.00 for the pair. I could never afford the $5k for a top ranked electrostatic amp. This isn't a $5k amp, but it's not embarressed by one either. I'd like to encourage other DIYers to "push the envelope", and would be happy to answer questions or discuss the design. I've had a lot of positive comments. Thanks to all. It's very encouraging. The final design of this amp is still in flux. There is also a much more "sane" kt88 based little brother in progress. When the design is finished and proven, I'll post it in the DIY forum._

 

I'll look forward to the schematic, Frank. A transformer coupled SET is certainly a different take on what we are normally doing and I'm sure many would love the sound compared to the often _too_ honest DC-coupled amps. I will certainly build one after I've done with my own backlog of amps and drawn up the PCB's I need to design. 

 One question though, did you ever fire up the smaller KT88 amp at Can Jam? In all the pictures it just sits there unused...


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try Silclear on the phone pins. Actually put it on all contacts, plugs,IC's etc. It will boost the bass and generally smooth out the sound. It's about $30.00 for a lifetime supply from Mapleshade. This stuff really works for me. Send me a pm and an SSA envelope and I'll shoot you a sample._

 

I also used silclear and it was wonderful. Removed the graininess in the music and found that the voulme went up by 1 level. Perhaps you could try out different interconnect and power cables as well. But, beware, cables can be a "slippery" road.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been looking for SRD 7 pro or mk 2 for a while and 2 came up for sale in audiogon yesterday. Guess what, both have already been sold. It pains me to see that it was so close yet so far.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

..and one sold in the FS forum this weekend. Just to rub it in... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/so...-7-pro-429135/

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_<snip>When the design is finished and proven, I'll post it in the DIY forum._

 

That is what we like to hear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Your amplifier looks really nice, and it s really nice to see that it is not a $15k unit.


----------



## mikeymad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm the builder of the big DIY transmitting tube electrostatic amp that was exhibited at CanJam. Earlier in this thread there was speculation that this amp would cost $15,000. The actual construction costs were about $1,500. About $300.00 of that was in the fancy chassis materials. As much as possible, this amp was built with common "off the shelf", used,recycled, or surplus components. The sole exception being the custom Electra-Print output transformers, which ran about $350.00 for the pair. I could never afford the $5k for a top ranked electrostatic amp. This isn't a $5k amp, but it's not embarressed by one either. I'd like to encourage other DIYers to "push the envelope", and would be happy to answer questions or discuss the design. I've had a lot of positive comments. Thanks to all. It's very encouraging. The final design of this amp is still in flux. There is also a much more "sane" kt88 based little brother in progress. When the design is finished and proven, I'll post it in the DIY forum._

 

Cheers Frank.... Agreed... your amp was not embarrassed by any amp at the show. And I think that your design and implementation of the Electrostatic is very good. What I really like is your creativity in using what you have available to make your amps. Looking forward to seeing more.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also used silclear and it was wonderful. Removed the graininess in the music and found that the voulme went up by 1 level. Perhaps you could try out different interconnect and power cables as well. But, beware, cables can be a "slippery" road._

 

I am glad to get another person to agree about this stuff. It does a lot of good and if you are reluctant to try such "voodoo" it's so cheap that it's no big deal if doesn't work for you. 

 Your comment about the volume change is right on. I recently obtained a second Stax SRM1Mk2 amp and put it next to my prior Mk2. When I first turned it on I though "Oh crap" it doesn't play the same volume. It was at least one volume level down from the earlier amp. After I Silcleared the pins, IC's and power cord it was exactly the same as the other amp which had previously been treated. 

 Now any time you can bump the power up in any system you are doing something significant and almost certainly going to improve performance.

 I also find it good for the type of etch that bedevils some Lambdas. I can't quite decide though whether it helps because it raises the bass output or actually filters some treble. It clearly does raise the bass and I suspect that is what give most of the apparent eduction in etch.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

well, I tell you, the silclear was not an answer I was expecting, But I am all about giving it a try!! I am also interested in the diy poor mans electrostat amp that is still under construction. What are the Most highly respected amps for the normal bias sr-lambda? A couple come to mind, but I believe they were all over 1k.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, I tell you, the silclear was not an answer I was expecting, But I am all about giving it a try!! I am also interested in the diy poor mans electrostat amp that is still under construction. What are the Most highly respected amps for the normal bias sr-lambda? A couple come to mind, but I believe they were all over 1k._

 

I am not sure if there were many amps built solely for the low bias phones other than the very early ones which I believe were lower bias than than what was finally settled on by Stax for their low bias phones.

 Among the more recent crop is the SRA12S pre-amp/headphone amp which sometimes comes up for sale. It is solely low bias and can sound pretty good with a few modest tweaks. Its specs show that it has more voltage swing than many later Stax amps, in fact the same as the SRM1Mk2. That latter amp is an even better choice as it has both high and low bias sockets. Sooner or later you will go "high."

 There are a number of other more recent tube and transistor Stax amps that have high and low bias sockets, most of which I have not heard but none of which I believe will give you the voltage swing of the SRA12S or SRM1Mk2. It seems that most recent Stax amps have dropped the low bias socket.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not sure if there were many amps built solely for the low bias phones other than the very early ones which I believe were lower bias than than what was finally settled on by Stax for their low bias phones.

 Among the more recent crop is the SRA12S pre-amp/headphone amp which sometimes comes up for sale. It is solely low bias and can sound pretty good with a few modest tweaks. Its specs show that it has more voltage swing than many later Stax amps, in fact the same as the SRM1Mk2. That latter amp is an even better choice as it has both high and low bias sockets. Sooner or later you will go "high."

 There are a number of other more recent tube and transistor Stax amps that have high and low bias sockets, most of which I have not heard but none of which I believe will give you the voltage swing of the SRA12S or SRM1Mk2. It seems that most recent Stax amps have dropped the low bias socket._

 

Because I decided to go with a vintage stax setup, I know that my options are limited to older used equipment, or some of the newer diy's that are being set up for normal bias. I was actually looking for the srm1mk2, but its out of my price range right now. I wish there were more people in the area I could check out stax gear with, but it just aint in the cards.


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll look forward to the schematic, Frank. A transformer coupled SET is certainly a different take on what we are normally doing and I'm sure many would love the sound compared to the often too honest DC-coupled amps. ..._

 

I believe that WooAudio uses this design in some of their more expensive amps. The transformers I believe works as an electrical lever that magnifies the load impedance presented to the output tubes to better match the output tubes high output impedance and magnifies the output tubes current swings, while it reduces the output tubes' voltage swings and output impedance to better match the headphone's low impedance. I also believe that audionote uses a similar design in their very expensive amps. The quality and type of sound and signal it produces is also much affected by the type of the transformers used.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do, however, stand corrected. Don't know if you guys agree?


----------



## leaf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Sooner or later you will go "high."_

 

 I beleive so too!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Because I decided to go with a vintage stax setup_

 

For me, there is a mark improvement in the music enjoyment going from normal to high bias.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I beleive so too!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 For me, there is a mark improvement in the music enjoyment going from normal to high bias._

 

You know that statement doesn't make any sense, right? It's like saying that the 230v light bulbs in europe give so much better light than the 115v light bulbs in america. 

 They might - but it's not the voltage.

 I'm just saying it's a different product, with a different design. If it were all about the bias voltage, we'd all be hoarding jecklin float electrostatics - because they have everything else beat by a mile in the bias voltage department. 

 We are conspicuously not great fans of the jecklinstats.


----------



## ktm

I was taking a look under the hood and saw there are ajustments for offset
 and balance. Is there a procedure to check offset and adjust for this energizer?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yay! Lambda Pro's tomorrow!

 Will be sure to post a comparison with the Gamma Pro's then, if I'm in a good mood, I'll ship them off to you, Webbie 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sounds promising but I'm far more interested in your impressions of your much anticipated Lambda Pro's.

 Hope you're enjoying them as I write this.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We are conspicuously not great fans of the jecklinstats._

 

We aren't? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I thought it was only because they were rather rare.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know that statement doesn't make any sense, right? It's like saying that the 230v light bulbs in europe give so much better light than the 115v light bulbs in america. 

 They might - but it's not the voltage.

 I'm just saying it's a different product, with a different design. If it were all about the bias voltage, we'd all be hoarding jecklin float electrostatics - because they have everything else beat by a mile in the bias voltage department. 

 We are conspicuously not great fans of the jecklinstats._

 

I quite liked my Jecklin Float Stats when they were working.

 I believe that Stax went to high bias designs primarily to get better dynamics and bass. Possibly you can make a fine stat phone with lower bias, but Koss, Stax and I believe Sennheisser too have chosen to go 500 + volts, so I assume there is some technical reason.

 I have a low bias Sigma and an SRXIII which I listen to from time to time and I think you get a certain quality from them which is pleasing. For example the low bias Sigma sounds a bit sweeter than the Sigma Pro. However the pro has more oomph. I sometimes wonder what the Sigma low or SRXIII would sound like with the thinner membranes of the newer designs or the lower capacitance cables. One of my SRXIII's had a non-Stax upgraded cable and it is definitely better than the one with the original cable.


----------



## gilency

Just purchased the Stax SR-404 Signature/SRM-006t system from HiFlight. It is my first Stax system, not top of the line I know but I am very excited about. I listened to Stax for the first time at CanJam. 
 EdStrelow (Thank you ED! although you probably don't remember) was very helpful and patient answering some of my questions. I did listen top the 404's as well as SR-007. Not willing to expend money on the top of the line, but I expect to be happy for a while with this system. After listening to Stax I am not sure I would be happy with dynamics anymore. I also listened to several HD800's including the one with balanced cables at headRoom, but kept going back to the Stax systems. I guess I am hooked!


----------



## FrankCooter

Spritzer, I appreciate your interest in my electrostatic amp. Your extended discussions of all things electrostatic has been a great help in building this amp. Your comments about the strengths and weaknesses of this type of amp are accurate. Dht amps loose out in accuracy and frequency extension but bring a richness to the midrange that is very seductive. I've built a lot of horn speakers and SET amps, but I'm an electrostic neophyte. I'd really like to see what someone with your expertise could do with a DHT amp. I think and electrostatics and DHTs are a potentially very synergistic combination.

 You asked about the smaller kt-88 based amp visable in the photos. You're correct that it was never hooked up. Right before the meet it developed a loud popping noise in one channel. After the meet I traced it to a faulty connection in the input/driver section that was intermitantly grounding. The problem, once found, was easily fixed, but not before it damaged (diaphragm?)
 one side my "no warranty" gray market SR-303. Alas, such is the nature of DYI! Next meet, I'll run this amp. It's very similar, but much more practical than its "big brother".


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just purchased the Stax SR-404 Signature/SRM-006t system from HiFlight. It is my first Stax system, not top of the line I know but I am very excited about. I listened to Stax for the first time at CanJam. 
 EdStrelow (Thank you ED! although you probably don't remember) was very helpful and patient answering some of my questions. I did listen top the 404's as well as SR-007. Not willing to expend money on the top of the line, but I expect to be happy for a while with this system. After listening to Stax I am not sure I would be happy with dynamics anymore. I also listened to several HD800's including the one with balanced cables at headRoom, but kept going back to the Stax systems. I guess I am hooked!_

 

Your face looks familiar, did the gf come with you to Canjam?

 You have a good system and I am sure you will be happy for quite a while. I am still drafting a review of 3 different Lambdas, the 404, Signature and Nova Classic and to anticipate the results, still prefer the 404 to the others.

 At Canjam, while I was able to hear several megabuck tube amps for Stax phones, I didn't get to hear the Stax tube amps. In fact I didn't even see one although there were a few transistor amps. I would be curious to know if tube amplification eases the midrange prominence of these phones.


----------



## gilency

No, girlfriend/wife is not into speakers. She is actually in Russia right now so I am busy buying while she is away! I am glad to hear you think the 404's are OK. Looking forward to receive them soon and to read your review.


----------



## fraseyboy

Still haven't listened to the Lambda's since I'm such a social butterfly.

 The instructions that came with the pads aren't very good; should the thick bit be facing the front when they are in the direction of wearing, or the back?


----------



## John Buchanan

The thickest corner should be at the rear bottom (ie that thickest bit should sit behind and below your ears to provide a better seal)


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well, I tell you, the silclear was not an answer I was expecting, But I am all about giving it a try!! I am also interested in the diy poor mans electrostat amp that is still under construction. What are the Most highly respected amps for the normal bias sr-lambda? A couple come to mind, but I believe they were all over 1k._

 

Mind that I have never heard the SR-Lambda.
But I found the SRM-007t to be a really nice match for the SR-Lambda Pro, SR-303 and SR-404. Hence would not be surprised if it match up nicely with the SR-Lambda as well.

 Should be possible to find one below $1k.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leaf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe that WooAudio uses this design in some of their more expensive amps. The transformers I believe works as an electrical lever that magnifies the load impedance presented to the output tubes to better match the output tubes high output impedance and magnifies the output tubes current swings, while it reduces the output tubes' voltage swings and output impedance to better match the headphone's low impedance. I also believe that audionote uses a similar design in their very expensive amps. The quality and type of sound and signal it produces is also much affected by the type of the transformers used.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do, however, stand corrected. Don't know if you guys agree?_

 

What you are describing is just about every tube amp ever made, at least 99.99% of them. The transformers provide impedance matching while stepping down the voltage/stepping up the current. The rest are OTL or direct drive units which take the output directly off the tubes but often through capacitors. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I appreciate your interest in my electrostatic amp. Your extended discussions of all things electrostatic has been a great help in building this amp. Your comments about the strengths and weaknesses of this type of amp are accurate. Dht amps loose out in accuracy and frequency extension but bring a richness to the midrange that is very seductive. I've built a lot of horn speakers and SET amps, but I'm an electrostic neophyte. I'd really like to see what someone with your expertise could do with a DHT amp. I think and electrostatics and DHTs are a potentially very synergistic combination._

 

Given how transparent electrostatics are then I'm sure SET's will be an ideal match for those that want a richer tone. I'm pretty sure that I won't build the fully fledged mercury vapor/813 amp but the KT88 unit would be a fun project. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrankCooter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You asked about the smaller kt-88 based amp visable in the photos. You're correct that it was never hooked up. Right before the meet it developed a loud popping noise in one channel. After the meet I traced it to a faulty connection in the input/driver section that was intermitantly grounding. The problem, once found, was easily fixed, but not before it damaged (diaphragm?)
 one side my "no warranty" gray market SR-303. Alas, such is the nature of DYI! Next meet, I'll run this amp. It's very similar, but much more practical than its "big brother"._

 

That's sad but also the reason why we have "burner" headphones. I use an old Lambda Pro and also the SR-003 which is very sensitive so can pick up hum easily. They will show any bias issues on the spot. The SR-007 on the other hand can stand up to a lot of abuse and they never complain, even at 800v bias. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for the the SR-303's, all hope many not be lost. If they are less then a year old then they will be under warranty even if it is only valid in Japan. It would be worth a shot to see if company you bought them from would be willing to handle sending them back for you.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mind that I have never heard the SR-Lambda.
But I found the SRM-007t to be a really nice match for the SR-Lambda Pro, SR-303 and SR-404. Hence would not be surprised if it match up nicely with the SR-Lambda as well.

 Should be possible to find one below $1k._

 

The SRM-007t and SR-Lambda do make a very nice combo. I would suggest saving up for a Woo GES if you want the very best from the SR-Lambda. If those are not accessible to you there are many normal bias SRD adaptors that are just begging to be connected to a great speaker amp.


----------



## padam

SR-Lambda is superb with the T1S, my favourite headphone so far (at least with the T1S), pity I need to give it back to the owner soon


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Lambda is superb with the T1S, my favourite headphone so far (at least with the T1S), pity I need to give it back to the owner soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's 2 votes for the original Lambda today. (The other is in my Lambda comparison thread) It makes you wonder why Stax even made the Lambda pro.


----------



## padam

Tomorrow I will hear the Lambda Pro as well when the new tubes will be fitted to the T1S, could be interesting. Although I have been warned that the T1S might struggle with it a bit.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Professional are both execellent earspeakers. It's not until the SR-Lambda Signature that there is the super sparkle highs, love or hate it. I can't imagine what the SR-007 would have sounded like had it been designed to be normal bias.


----------



## FrankCooter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeymad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers Frank.... Agreed... your amp was not embarrassed by any amp at the show. And I think that your design and implementation of the Electrostatic is very good. What I really like is your creativity in using what you have available to make your amps. Looking forward to seeing more._

 

Mikey, building an amp of this type inevitably becomes an inadvertant social statement. It's entertainment, but it's also a homage to a bygone industrial era when companies like Western Electric, RCA, Collins, and many others made the U.S. the world leader in high quality electrical equipment. Many of the components of the era are still world class by any standard. I have a lot of fun giving this stuff a new life. If it raises some questions some questions about our history and contemporary society in the process, then so much the better.


----------



## gilency

Frank: I saw your equipment at CanJam: yours, EdStrelow Ironbutt's were wonderful. I was very impressed. There was another guy who had a large DIY amplifier (not electrostatic if I remember) who had a very retro look with old style gauges. Your work and his were amazing. They looked so professionally made I was very impressed. The other guy told me he had been a cabinet maker before and also had some training in electric engineering if I remember correctly but don't recall his name. Guys like you compose the core of this forum.


----------



## fraseyboy

Listening to Lambda Pro's right now.

 People have said they're bass heavy but to my ears they're not bass heavy AT all. In fact the Gamma's seem to have more bass. They are also more trebly than the Gamma's, and more laid back with a bigger soundstage. The mids are more recessed also.

 It saddens me to say that I'm not incredibly impressed so far.

 There's also quite a bit of sibilance which makes words with 's' in them sound weird.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening to Lambda Pro's right now.

 People have said they're bass heavy but to my ears they're not bass heavy AT all. In fact the Gamma's seem to have more bass. They are also more trebly than the Gamma's, and more laid back with a bigger soundstage. The mids are more recessed also.

 It saddens me to say that I'm not incredibly impressed so far.

 There's also quite a bit of sibilance which makes words with 's' in them sound weird._

 

Sounds just like the last two pairs I didn't like and sold off... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Sorry.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds just like the last two pairs I didn't like and sold off... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry._

 

I just can't seem to get used to them. They're too boring and laid back... The Gamma's present almost the same amount of detail but are a bit more up-front, whilst still maintaining a big soundstage (though admittedly not as big). Plus, the treble tends to be a bit fatiguing on certain songs, and also makes them sound thin.

 I won't condemn them this early. I'll give them a bit more of a listen... But...

 Are there any electrostats around the same price as the Lambda Pro's that have reasonable bass slam (ie around the same as the AD700), does NOT sound boring and has non recessed mids, whilst still maintaining detail? Or would I be better off sticking with my (awesome) AD700's and being a rich man, or trying some other dynamics (I did like those DT880's...)?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just can't seem to get used to them. They're too boring and laid back... The Gamma's present almost the same amount of detail but are a bit more up-front, whilst still maintaining a big soundstage (though admittedly not as big). Plus, the treble tends to be a bit fatiguing on certain songs, and also makes them sound thin.

 I won't condemn them this early. I'll give them a bit more of a listen... But...

 Are there any electrostats around the same price as the Lambda Pro's that have reasonable bass slam (ie around the same as the AD700), does NOT sound boring and has non recessed mids, whilst still maintaining detail? Or would I be better off sticking with my (awesome) AD700's and being a rich man, or trying some other dynamics (I did like those DT880's...)?_

 

What are you using to drive these phones? Your listings don't show anything for electrostatics. I trust it is not a low bias transformer, cause if it is that's the problem. If you have a high bias transformer then there may be some lack of power in the power amp. I recall that you at one point you seemed to have too many things hooked up to the amp. I also find that most stats need some extended use befoe they seem to settle down. Even my SR007 sounded pretty poor in its first few hours of use. Probably something to do with getting charged up properly.


 Finally it may just be the Lambda pros. I wouldn't say that any of my three Lambdas (404, Signature and Nova Classic) are bassy phones, although they are more than adequate in that department. Even the Lambda Nova Classic can sound pretty impressive on Pink Floyd's The Wall. with a basic amp such as the SRM3. However I have no real knowledge of the Lambda Pro.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are you using to drive these phones? Your listings don't show anything for electrostatics._

 

Still haven't updated my sig.

 I'm running them out of the SRD-7 Pro which I'm borrowing from Webbie (I also have an SRD-7 MK 2 but it only has one pro bias output and I want to compare with the Gamma Pro's) which is connected to a NAD T744 Home Theatre receiver. 

 One thing they do do well is Explosions in the Sky. Not as good as the DT880's as far as I can remember though...

 Edit: The bass seems to be more now and, possibly because of this, they sound much fuller. Not sure if they just needed to be charged up after not being used for a while or what. I still don't like that treble though...


----------



## doping panda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just can't seem to get used to them. They're too boring and laid back... The Gamma's present almost the same amount of detail but are a bit more up-front, whilst still maintaining a big soundstage (though admittedly not as big). Plus, the treble tends to be a bit fatiguing on certain songs, and also makes them sound thin.

 I won't condemn them this early. I'll give them a bit more of a listen... But...

 Are there any electrostats around the same price as the Lambda Pro's that have reasonable bass slam (ie around the same as the AD700), does NOT sound boring and has non recessed mids, whilst still maintaining detail? Or would I be better off sticking with my (awesome) AD700's and being a rich man, or trying some other dynamics (I did like those DT880's...)?_

 

Lambda normal bias might actually be what you're looking for. The mids on the normal bias Lambda are fairly forward while the bass has reasonable impact imo. I haven't listened to the AD700 yet so I can't make a comparison, but the Lambda easily has more bass impact than the K500 and probably like 70 to 80% of the HD580 bass impact. The amount of impact will depend partly on the recording. A recording with emphasized bass like Tom Wait's Blood Money will have respectable bass impact depending on your source and amp while a bass shy recording will sound bass shy. Most modern rock records have a high bass response or just they're just loud in general so for a lot of the music to which you listen the normal bias Lambda will have at least respectable impact. Of course, it'll never be on the level of a Denon Dx000, but from what I read neither will the AD700. The level of detail of the normal bias Lambda isn't as much as that of an O2/BH combo or big money stat rig, but it's far better than that of any dynamic I've owned.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doping panda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda normal bias might actually be what you're looking for. The mids on the normal bias Lambda are fairly forward while the bass has reasonable impact imo. I haven't listened to the AD700 yet so I can't make a comparison, but the Lambda easily has more bass impact than the K500 and probably like 70 to 80% of the HD580 bass impact. The amount of impact will depend partly on the recording. A recording with emphasized bass like Tom Wait's Blood Money will have respectable bass impact depending on your source and amp while a bass shy recording will sound bass shy. Most modern rock records have a high bass response or just they're just loud in general so for a lot of the music to which you listen the normal bias Lambda will have at least respectable impact. Of course, it'll never be on the level of a Denon Dx000, but from what I read neither will the AD700. The level of detail of the normal bias Lambda isn't as much as that of an O2/BH combo or big money stat rig, but it's far better than that of any dynamic I've owned._

 

They sound good. I'm quite happy with the amount of detail which my Lambda Pro's reveal. Any more would be excessive IMO. I wonder if I'd be able to do a straight out trade of my Lambda Pro's for some Lambda's...

 Edit: Loving the Lambda Pro's more now. They must have changed due to SOMETHING. The bass is MUCH more noticeable. Still though, the treble is VERY piercing and fatiguing, especially on hot recordings like Pablo Honey. And the mids aren't quite up to scratch. Nice though. They're more energetic now.

 Also, there is a very very low frequency humming noise coming from my Lambda Pro's which seems to have developed as I've been using them... It's not really that much of an issue since you can't hear it when music is playing. Any idea's what it could be?


----------



## manaox2

Don't know about the humming, possibly your speaker amp and the headphones are making it show. The adapters do take time to charge up the headphones. 

 I also don't know about the treble energy, but changing from different sources and amps can help. With the T1 and Gamma, the Signature I use now are really bright, while with the buffalo and the T1, they are just bright if that makes any sense. The treble energy doesn't bother me as much.

 With the Lambda Pro, the mids are not forward, that and the "smoother" sound does make them laid back IMO. I think that has been a main beef for most others who have owned them as well. I really enjoyed them when I owned them.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any electrostats around the same price as the Lambda Pro's that have reasonable bass slam (ie around the same as the AD700), does NOT sound boring and has non recessed mids, whilst still maintaining detail?_

 

Koss ESP-950 powered by Stax.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Koss ESP-950 powered by Stax._

 

I would have to disagree on that. The 950 has adequate bass and is fairly balanced across other frequencies , but the 404 has more punch at the bottom but a somewhat prominent upper midrange. 

 At any rate if anyone disagrees maybe they will want to buy my set which has just been refurnished by Koss and is going up for sale, complete with a Koss amp and Stax adapter.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't know about the humming, possibly your speaker amp and the headphones are making it show. The adapters do take time to charge up the headphones. 

 I also don't know about the treble energy, but changing from different sources and amps can help. With the T1 and Gamma, the Signature I use now are really bright, while with the buffalo and the T1, they are just bright if that makes any sense. The treble energy doesn't bother me as much.

 With the Lambda Pro, the mids are not forward, that and the "smoother" sound does make them laid back IMO. I think that has been a main beef for most others who have owned them as well. I really enjoyed them when I owned them._

 

The humming is not from my source or my speaker amp, since it is still there when they are all turned off. It is also not present in the Gamma's, only the Lambda's.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The humming is not from my source or my speaker amp, since it is still there when they are all turned off. It is also not present in the Gamma's, only the Lambda's._

 

Does it sound like 50Hz hum? Is your transformer powered from the mains? If so it may have a problem with its power transformer or a grounding problem somewhere in your system.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does it sound like 50Hz hum? Is your transformer powered from the mains? If so it may have a problem with its power transformer or a grounding problem somewhere in your system._

 

I've compared it to a 50hz sine wave and they sound pretty similar. The one in the Lambda's is extremely quiet and I can only just hear it.

 Yeah, the transformer is powered from the mains. It could have been that I couldn't hear it before because the Lambda's weren't performing to their full (due to not being used for a while). I can't hear it at all on the Gamma's either since they probably don't extend as low. What can be done about grounding problems?

 The good news is, I'm enjoying the Lambda's now. They certainly have more bass than the Gamma's now, though the mids aren't as good and the treble is more fatiguing for some reason.

 Edit: Tried another transformer and it has the humming to, so its not a problem with the transformer.


----------



## yale.reinstein

I've upgraded from a 252A to a T1S and I still get a small amount of humming if I leave my Lambda Pros plugged in and unused for a while. It doesn't bother me, and seems to go away if I use it for a couple minutes. I also have a grounding nub I can tie something on to if I wanted to, I guess...

 As for the sound, I love them. The bass is beautiful and perfectly transparent, but the treble is piercing to the point that it can induce headaches in a matter of a couple minutes if they are turned up too loud.


----------



## krmathis

fraseyboy. Great to hear that the SR-Lambda Pro have come to use, and you seem to like it. Besides the griefs you had the first day, which seems to have slowly faded away.

 Enjoy!


----------



## gilency

Stupid question from a Stax beginner: what is an energizer or adaptor for earspeakers? i.e.: SRD7. Is it an amplifier or something different?


----------



## krmathis

*Energizer -> SRM-xxx*. A direct drive unit which hook up between your source and the headphone. Basically an amplifier.
  Code:


```
[left]Source -> Energizer -> Headphone[/left]
```

*Transformer -> SRD-xxx*. An adapter unit which hook up between a regular speaker amplifier and the headphone. Provide bias supply, but no amplification.
  Code:


```
[left]Source -> Speaker amplifier -> Transformer -> Headphone[/left]
```


----------



## gilency

ok thanks. I don't know why then is not called amplifier if that is what it is.


----------



## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok thanks. I don't know why then is not called amplifier if that is what it is._

 

Anything that drives electrostatic headphones has to do more than simply amplify.

 All of the Stax line, except the electret transformers, provide a bias signal necessary to drive electrostatic headphones. This is a function that has nothing to do with amplification. So, a different terminology might be useful to distinguish an amplifier which has a bias supply from most other amplifiers, which do not have such a supply, and cannot drive electrostatic headphones. The SRD-7, in addition to passing through a signal from another amplifier, also has a bias supply built in. 

 OTOH, most people simply use the term "electrostatic amplifier", which only applies to amps that have a bias supply and output a signal appropriate for electrostatic headphones.


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm just saying it's a different product, with a different design. If it were all about the bias voltage, we'd all be hoarding jecklin float electrostatics - because they have everything else beat by a mile in the bias voltage department. 

 We are conspicuously not great fans of the jecklinstats._

 

Lies. Jecklin Float Electrostatics FTW. You know you love them Floatsies.


----------



## T9R

I feel odd clicking the "High-end Audio Forum" link after spending only $300, but I received a 2050 Basic system from fellow head-fier kinsale over the weekend.

 He said they felt boring to him. Well, he must live a much more interesting life than I do because the last thing I feel when I put these on is bored


----------



## kinsale

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T9R* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel odd clicking the "High-end Audio Forum" link after spending only $300, but I received a 2050 Basic system from fellow head-fier kinsale over the weekend.

 He said they felt boring to him. Well, he must live a much more interesting life than I do because the last thing I feel when I put these on is bored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Good for you! My advice is to keep those phones I sent you and not audition anything else! Seriously, my problem was that I had the SRX-MK3 to compare them to. Compared to them I found the 2050 system "boring". I should have said too laid back. Boring implies that they are not enjoyable which they certainly are.
 Glad you like them!!


----------



## chi2

Well, I may be in the minority here but I definitely prefer my SR-202 - and all my other Lambdas - (attached to the SRM-212, SRM-1 MKII, SRM-1T, or SRM717) to my SRX-MK3 (on the SRM-1 MKII or SRM-1T). It has better extension in bass as well as highs and better soundstage, too. And it's much more comfortable. The only area I feel the SRX performing somewhat better is the midrange.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I may be in the minority here but I definitely prefer my SR-202 - and all my other Lambdas - (attached to the SRM-212, SRM-1 MKII, SRM-1T, or SRM717) to my SRX-MK3 (on the SRM-1 MKII or SRM-1T). It has better extension in bass as well as highs and better soundstage, too. And it's much more comfortable. The only area I feel the SRX performing somewhat better is the midrange._

 

I tend to agree. The Lambdas are full range phones and are listenable over a wide range of material. The SRXIII's only really sound good with material with a heavy bass and can be unlistenable on bass light material. I have 2 pairs and consider them interesting, but fundamentally flawed.

 The Lambdas vary somewhat among the 10 plus models that are out there and you get a lot of different sonic flavors.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T9R* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel odd clicking the "High-end Audio Forum" link after spending only $300, but I received a 2050 Basic system from fellow head-fier kinsale over the weekend.

 He said they felt boring to him. Well, he must live a much more interesting life than I do because the last thing I feel when I put these on is bored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What's funny to me is that my cheap, second-hand Stax, LNS and SR-5NB cost less than any of my dynamic cans, by a quite a margin, but I like listening with them far more. The amp that makes me enjoy them so much, on the other hand, is not cheap!


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's funny to me is that my cheap, second-hand Stax, LNS and SR-5NB cost less than any of my dynamic cans, by a quite a margin, but I like listening with them far more. The amp that makes me enjoy them so much, on the other hand, is not cheap! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I guess it is preference.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About 2 months ago, I sold my O2mk1 and my SRM717 and thought that I would be as happy with my balanced B22 driving my HD600. Boy, I was wrong! I missed it so much that a couple of weeks ago I bought back another O2mk1 and am now looking for an amp to drive it. When a friend of mine found out that I was looking for the O2mk1 he said to me that once you have tasted electrostatics, it would be easy to miss them. Thinking back made me realise that I had made the wrong move. Ha! But preferring the sound of the electrostatics may be just me and a matter of preference.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess it is preference.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About 2 months ago, I sold my O2mk1 and my SRM717 and thought that I would be as happy with my balanced B22 driving my HD600. Boy, I was wrong! I missed it so much that a couple of weeks ago I bought back another O2mk1 and am now looking for an amp to drive it. When a friend of mine found out that I was looking for the O2mk1 he said to me that once you have tasted electrostatics, it would be easy to miss them. Thinking back made me realise that I had made the wrong move. Ha! But preferring the sound of the electrostatics may be just me and a matter of preference._

 

They say about the mafia, that once you're in, you're in for life.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess it is preference.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About 2 months ago, I sold my O2mk1 and my SRM717 and thought that I would be as happy with my balanced B22 driving my HD600. Boy, I was wrong! I missed it so much that a couple of weeks ago I bought back another O2mk1 and am now looking for an amp to drive it. When a friend of mine found out that I was looking for the O2mk1 he said to me that once you have tasted electrostatics, it would be easy to miss them. Thinking back made me realise that I had made the wrong move. Ha! But preferring the sound of the electrostatics may be just me and a matter of preference._

 

Thought you were in line for the BHSE?


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's funny to me is that my cheap, second-hand Stax, LNS and SR-5NB cost less than any of my dynamic cans, by a quite a margin, but I like listening with them far more. The amp that makes me enjoy them so much, on the other hand, is not cheap! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

More than your HD800?


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T9R* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel odd clicking the "High-end Audio Forum" link after spending only $300, but I received a 2050 Basic system from fellow head-fier kinsale over the weekend.

 He said they felt boring to him. Well, he must live a much more interesting life than I do because the last thing I feel when I put these on is bored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations! The set might be Basic to Stax but not certainly Basic to headphones in general. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, I can see what kinsale means by boring: the 202s don't highlight the treble at all, if not recessed. I myself feel that the lack of emphasis on the treble makes the sound bit uninvolving. It's not the whole story to it but a certain truth lies there IMO. YMMV! I felt at times these being boring but in the end it was the numb music causing it.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They say about the mafia, that once you're in, you're in for life._

 

Ha! I guess so.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T9R* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel odd clicking the "High-end Audio Forum" link after spending only $300, but I received a 2050 Basic system from fellow head-fier kinsale over the weekend.

 He said they felt boring to him. Well, he must live a much more interesting life than I do because the last thing I feel when I put these on is bored 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The 2050 may be the entry level Stax, and not all that regarded among some Stax'en which have heard ex. the O2. But be aware that they stand up very well against most moving coil headphones.

 Simply enjoy!


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *condor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They say about the mafia, that once you're in, you're in for life._

 

I'm gonna fight against it with real weaponry now. .) The K1000 versus SR202... there's no way the Stax could win, is there?


----------



## krmathis

^ Imo not!
 But then again it depends on the amplifiers used and musical taste/preferences.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess it is preference.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About 2 months ago, I sold my O2mk1 and my SRM717 and thought that I would be as happy with my balanced B22 driving my HD600. Boy, I was wrong! I missed it so much that a couple of weeks ago I bought back another O2mk1 and am now looking for an amp to drive it. When a friend of mine found out that I was looking for the O2mk1 he said to me that once you have tasted electrostatics, it would be easy to miss them. Thinking back made me realise that I had made the wrong move. Ha! But preferring the sound of the electrostatics may be just me and a matter of preference._

 

There's a basic what I call "graininess" to even the best dynamic set-up, which when you are used to the clarity of most stats, makes the dynamic sets unappealing even if they do some other things better. 

 The best dynamic I have heard was Headroom's HD800 balanced set-up at the recent Canjam. It sounded a whole lot like the BHSE 007 set-up except for the graininess. It was still pretty expensive, I think the amp and phones were at least $3K, which gets you a top Stax amp and 007 from Japan. (but not a BHSE)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm gonna fight against it with real weaponry now. .) The K1000 versus SR202... there's no way the Stax could win, is there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I heard a few K1000's at Canjam. Some were not at all impressive. Mikeymad's, set up was the best I heard, but I don't recall his amp. It was not as good as his ES1/007 set-up by a fair margin. But it was still a neat phone and I can see why some people like it. It's fun to be able to adjust the driver positions of the K1000.

 In some respects it is like the Stax Sigma, except that the Sigma has an enclosure around the ear admittedly a very open one and a fixed driver position. But it is in the same general position as the K1000 when it is set fully open. 

 The basic K1000 concept of an open driver with adjustable positions does work and I wish someone could try to drop a set of Sigma/Lambda/007 drivers into a headband like this.


----------



## Deadneddz

iirc it was a woo audio 5 and it was plugged into the 4pin xlr. I really enjoyed listening to them. Can't wait to pick up a K1000 later down the road.


----------



## spritzer

I just wanted to let you guys know that Afrikane's ES-1 has arrived safe and sound. I've opened it up and there is a lot of work ahead of me to say the least. I'm reluctant to fire it up due to the abundance of downright scary issues I have with the build. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This will be a long project but it will all be documented.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's funny to me is that my cheap, second-hand Stax, LNS and SR-5NB cost less than any of my dynamic cans, by a quite a margin, but I like listening with them far more. The amp that makes me enjoy them so much, on the other hand, is not cheap! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I love my LNS also. I think it has the best frequency balance of any headphone I've used, except vocals are a tad recessed on my setup. Piano and cello sound great with it. Also, I know if I treat my LNS well, it'll last another 20 years easily 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've moved from the SRD-7 to an SRM-1/MK-2 Pro. In return, I got more detail but lost some bass impact and dynamics.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to let you guys know that Afrikane's ES-1 has arrived safe and sound. I've opened it up and there is a lot of work ahead of me to say the least. I'm reluctant to fire it up due to the abundance of downright scary issues I have with the build. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This will be a long project but it will all be documented._

 

Good luck, even if I can't benefit from this (EE noob), I highly regard what you do - coming from software this EE thing reminds me so much of open source, it's nice.


----------



## spritzer

I'm not an EE either...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's funny to me is that my cheap, second-hand Stax, LNS and SR-5NB cost less than any of my dynamic cans, by a quite a margin, but I like listening with them far more. The amp that makes me enjoy them so much, on the other hand, is not cheap! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've posted in this thread that my SR-5NB/SRM-1 Mk2 Pro were on the level of my WA6 with RS-1. Very good value for the money.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Despite having a srm717/sr007 set up I keep going back to my SRD7 mk2 set for my LambdaPros and Sigma nl bias for lots of classic rock music. The LP's upper bite is attentuated by the transformer and the Dared clone brings out that terrific bass and lower mids...my ears anyway.
 tempted someday to try my hand in putting those 303 drivers into the Sigma!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Despite having a srm717/sr007 set up I keep going back to my SRD7 mk2 set for my LambdaPros and Sigma nl bias for lots of classic rock music. The LP's upper bite is attentuated by the transformer and the Dared clone brings out that terrific bass and lower mids...my ears anyway.
 tempted someday to try my hand in putting those 303 drivers into the Sigma!_

 

Craig said he'd be shipping our Zana Deux "T" amps by the end of the month. Have you heard anything from him yet? I look forward to trying it out with my SRD-7 Mk2 and Stax.


----------



## Victor Chew

I like the musicality produced by the electrostatics. Although, I find that my O2mk1 with my 717 did have acretain "peakiness" at the top, it was not difficult to forgive it once I started taping with the rythm. The tonal richness of the music always makes me forget the other musical flaws. Ha! But, this is all the past and will wait pateiently for a nice driver to come along.


----------



## veloaudio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the musicality produced by the electrostatics. Although, I find that my O2mk1 with my 717 did have acretain "peakiness" at the top, it was not difficult to forgive it once I started taping with the rythm. The tonal richness of the music always makes me forget the other musical flaws. Ha! But, this is all the past and will wait pateiently for a nice driver to come along._

 

Just curious what you were using for a source? I haven't experienced this peakiness with my 717/O2mk1 and VK-D5.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Craig said he'd be shipping our Zana Deux "T" amps by the end of the month. Have you heard anything from him yet? I look forward to trying it out with my SRD-7 Mk2 and Stax._

 



 Nope...haven't emailed him in some time actually. I like to be surprised....have my delayed gratification down
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But it is good to know that time frame...I am #3.

 Totally surprised when the HD800 arrived last week...I only ordered from Todd at the start of CanJam. Been listening to them on the EC HD300...which I have been preamping the 717 with. Wonderful me thinks and I am using a bright-ish Tung Sol Jan-CTL 6SN7 brown base tube on the 300...which to my ears added some forwardness to the 007 when used pre ing the 717. The OTL amp is powering the 800 just fine, there is a touch of treble energy (100 hrs ), but it was what I was looking for ...and it is going to be very difficult to tell which of these two "earspeakers" will be my fav.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *veloaudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious what you were using for a source? I haven't experienced this peakiness with my 717/O2mk1 and VK-D5._

 

Bluenote Koala Tube with BB627 op amps. It came originally with AD2228 op amps. I find that the BB627 gave the music more body and removed quite a bit of the "peakiness", but it was still there. I also use the Koala Tube for my beta 22 and the "peakiness" is not present. Maybe its just equipment matching.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More than your HD800? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's the sixty-four-thousand-dollar question to be answered by my new amp arriving in a few days. So far I've been picking up the HD-800s the most, despite them having less detail overall, as well as the inferior amping, because the purely addictive soundstage.


----------



## fraseyboy

My Lambda Pro's sound different every time I use them.

 Sometimes they sound thin, lacking bass and punch, and other times they're bassy and punchy and really great.

 This could be a deal breaker.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda Pro's sound different every time I use them.

 Sometimes they sound thin, lacking bass and punch, and other times they're bassy and punchy and really great.

 This could be a deal breaker._

 

You could be having warm-up issues. 

 Using an amp, I leave the system on for 1/2 -1 hr, to get the amp warm and the phones charged up. I aso leave the phones plugged into the amp virtually all the time, even when it is turned off. 

 I am not sure what would apply with a transformer, but I would leave the phones in, switch the transformer on an hour beforehand if it is mains powered, and run the phones loud for a few minutes before listening, to get them properly charged up.


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda Pro's sound different every time I use them.

 Sometimes they sound thin, lacking bass and punch, and other times they're bassy and punchy and really great.

 This could be a deal breaker._

 

Sounds certainly interesting! It might be the sealing?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds certainly interesting! It might be the sealing?_

 

"New pads needed?" was my thought too.


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not an EE either... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Perhaps not in terms of a degree


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, are all the 717's prone to fault?_

 

Antony, sometime ago when Ed (If I remember correctly) had the same problem due to dust on his 717, I did post on the hyper sensitive circuitry that shuts off the 717.

 Either a short in the input due to slightly improperly connected line-in interconnect connectors on the RCA terminals or a book covering one third of the top vents for 5 to 15 minutes results in no output while the power-on indicator stays on. In either case cycling power resolves the problem. I had that with my own 717 and was able to duplicate it in both cases.

 I used to drive the 717 out of my Sony DAP through a mini to RCA adapter and every time I would wiggle the adapter the 717 would sense a short and shut off the output.

 I hope Duggeh will read this, try it out and confirm it and respond with his Laconic...

 Indeed !!!


----------



## spritzer

A short to ground on the input was indeed the problem with my 717 or rather in the G-lite which was on the loop out. The umbilical cable had a fault in it which I fixed and it is good as new.


----------



## gilency

Since it takes a while for them to warm up, can you leave a Stax amplifier on all the time or for prolonged periods of time?


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"New pads needed?" was my thought too._

 

The pads were brand new when I got it, still in the box so it's not them.

 I think it could be warmup. They seem to sound better after turning them up louder for a bit, to charge it up.

 Is there any risk of damaging them by doing that? How high volume levels can they take?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since it takes a while for them to warm up, can you leave a Stax amplifier on all the time or for prolonged periods of time?_

 

Yes.


----------



## bralk

I couldn´t resist pointing this out:

STAX ELS- 8X the only one worldwide mint condition bei eBay.de: Lautsprecher (endet 05.07.09 20:47:42 MESZ)


 cheers

 Tom

 PS: looks like quite a job driving these panels. On the other hand they max out at 100dB.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since it takes a while for them to warm up, can you leave a Stax amplifier on all the time or for prolonged periods of time?_

 

Some extended time is ok but because of the heat of Class A operation these amps are more of a fire hazard than many others and should be watched. 

 I remember getting an old SRA12S amp for parts, switching it on and seeing flame come out of the end of a loose resitor. Quite impressive!

 I mentioned this some years ago and someone refused to believe this could happen.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I couldn´t resist pointing this out:

STAX ELS- 8X the only one worldwide mint condition bei eBay.de: Lautsprecher (endet 05.07.09 20:47:42 MESZ)


 cheers

 Tom

 PS: looks like quite a job driving these panels. On the other hand they max out at 100dB._

 

Just look at the speaker in the back and the amplification. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Very, very nice!!!


----------



## padam

Spotted a Sigma Pro in the background


----------



## gilency

Just received my Stax 4040 system. I am quite happy with them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Now still waiting for my Westone ES3X hopefully this week and I think I am set for a while. 
 Eventually I will get the 007's and a nicer amplifier but for the time being I am quite happy. Since most of what I listen is classical, I am really enjoying the sound. I know some people complain about the bumps in certain frequencies, but I think as long as I don't listen to a better system, I will be satisfied.
 Comparing them to my DT880's they have more detail and much bigger soundstage.
 As far as the bass, It goes deep!


----------



## edstrelow

Just trying a little experiment with my Lambda Signatures. Having been fairly impressed with the AKG K1000 I heard at Canjam I wondered why there is no electrostatic equivalent, other than possibly the Sigma, which has its drivers in a similar position ahead of the ears, but which uses an enclosure around the ears and does not have the adjustable driver orientation of the K1000.

 I took the ear cups of the Signature out of the headband and also removed the earpads so as to leave the drivers fully exposed. Then I simply held them in position in front of the ears more or less where the K1000 drivers are. I tried different driver orientations a la the K1000. 

 The sound? Not so good. Most bass and ambience is lost. I immediately plugged in a Sigma pro, which has comparable drivers, and there is lots of ambience and richness of sound. 

 From this I conclude that the K1000 must have some pretty heavy bass emphasis in its drivers and that the Sigma enclosures are not just there because they look pretty.


----------



## n3rdling

Don't lambda style drivers need an air pocket to be formed in order to sound good?


----------



## powertoold

If you suspend any headphone that wasn't meant to be suspended, they'll lose a lot of bass and whatnot. They aren't designed to carry bass through air. It isn't just for stats. It's amazing that the K1000 has any decent bass at all!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't lambda style drivers need an air pocket to be formed in order to sound good?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you suspend any headphone that wasn't meant to be suspended, they'll lose a lot of bass and whatnot. They aren't designed to carry bass through air. It isn't just for stats. It's amazing that the K1000 has any decent bass at all!_

 

I suspect that the K1000 drivers have a very prominent low frequency resonance, because I don't think it's electronically equalized to get the bass up. So I doubt that a stat equivalent is possible unless it was electronically equalized because an electrostatic driver is too light to resonate in the bass region.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I couldn´t resist pointing this out:

STAX ELS- 8X the only one worldwide mint condition bei eBay.de: Lautsprecher (endet 05.07.09 20:47:42 MESZ)_

 

Oh my, oh my!
 That would have been something...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suspect that the K1000 drivers have a very prominent low frequency resonance, because I don't think it's electronically equalized to get the bass up. So I doubt that a stat equivalent is possible unless it was electronically equalized because an electrostatic driver is too light to resonate in the bass region._

 

Prominant low frequency resonance? Doubtful, I think that you might be slightly muddled in your choice of words.

 As for a stat equivilent, it's an impractical proposition because the K1000 achieves a reasonable low end response in an open configuration by having a driver with a large excursion. If we stick with the Stax Pro-Bias spec, then in order to do the same with a Stax headphone, one has to dramatically increase the surface area of the diaphragm so that it can move the same amount of air per swing. A giant diaphragm makes for difficult ergonomics.

 Another solution would be to up the bias voltage and up the spacing too, so that the stat driver moves more air on each swing. Also difficult.


----------



## spritzer

...which is what the Dr. Jecklin did


----------



## gilency

I haven't enjoyed music like tonight in a while. I am listening to Bach's Cantata No. 99 with my 404's. Such clarity of sound, such a beautiful sound! I am in heaven....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Prominant low frequency resonance? Doubtful, I think that you might be slightly muddled in your choice of words.

 As for a stat equivilent, it's an impractical proposition because the K1000 achieves a reasonable low end response in an open configuration by having a driver with a large excursion. If we stick with the Stax Pro-Bias spec, then in order to do the same with a Stax headphone, one has to dramatically increase the surface area of the diaphragm so that it can move the same amount of air per swing. A giant diaphragm makes for difficult ergonomics.

 Another solution would be to up the bias voltage and up the spacing too, so that the stat driver moves more air on each swing. Also difficult._

 


 You clearly need a powerful driver but I don't think that's the problem here. 
 Any dynamic driver is going to have more excursion than an electrostatic. The stat makes up for its lack of excursion by increase in area of the driver. But better excursion by itself doesn't give more bass, rather it gives more volume at all frequencies, unless the driver also has a bass peak or electronic equalization is applied. A lot of cheap dynamic speakers like tv speakers use resonance tricks to get more bass, eg. an 80 Hz mechanical resonance to give a kick at 80 Hz. That's what I think AKG is doing with the K1000. 

 The Lambda driver has plenty of bass even in an unsealed enclosure such as the Sigma so I think it's got a reasonably flat frequency response down to low frequencies. It can also put out a fair bit of volume. The Sigmas were sold with a stand to allow them to be used as loudspeakers. Alas, I have long since lost mine.

 The reason you can't get bass from this driver sitting by itself, outside of its enclosure, is probably cancellation by the back wave. This is less of a problem with higher frequencies since they are more directional, especially with large drivers (that's why tweeters are tiny) and you will get less high frequency sound travelling around to the front of the drivers. BTW, the Sigma stand referred to above would block or absorb some of the back-wave.

 I suspect the reason the Sigmas work is that their enclosure attenuates some of the back wave which would otherwise cancel the bass. I think there is also some low frequency resonance of the air inside the enclosure, rather like a drum even though the enclosure is not air tight. Stax probably did a lot of trial and error with enclosure construction and shape and amount of stuffing (mineral wool?) to get this to work.

 Why do the Jecklins work? If I remember my old Jecklins, their enclosures extended beyond the drivers (which were only about 4 by 4 inches?) by a few inches, thus acting as a baffle to stop some of the backwave. I think there was also some added foam on the inside which would block the wave. Finally, their drivers are pretty close to the ear which probably blocks some of the backwave from getting in front of the driver

 In my Lambda experiment you get more bass as the drivers are angled in to be closer to the ear. The same thing with the K1000.

 Maybe you could lessen the back wave by having absorbing material behind the driver?


----------



## spritzer

I just wanted to let you guys know that the ES-1 is up and running again after roughly 20 spent on it. It isn't out of the woods yet but the two major issues have been resolved.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Looks great. How does it sound, comparing to your other amps?


----------



## spritzer

It's much too crippled right now to make any real judgments but nothing I've heard so far impresses me.


----------



## fraseyboy

Has anyone here heard the SR-303 and the Lambda Pro/Lambda Normal?

 From what I've read, the SR-303 are like a less laid-back Lambda. If so, they may be just what I'm looking for.


----------



## greggf

I had been using the O2Mk2/007Tii exclusively for quite a while. And then this past month, I went back to partly using dynamics - HD800, HD6XX - with three different amps.

 I now experience listener fatigue with the dynamics in a way I never did before when I listened to dynamic headphones on a regular basis. We're talking headaches and irritation, both mental and physical, after long listening sessions. 

 Has anyone else noticed this? Have the O2 ruined me for "regular" headphones? Is there that big a difference between stat and dynamic sound?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greggf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had been using the O2Mk2/007Tii exclusively for quite a while. And then this past month, I went back to partly using dynamics - HD800, HD6XX - with three different amps.

 I now experience listener fatigue with the dynamics in a way I never did before when I listened to dynamic headphones on a regular basis. We're talking headaches and irritation, both mental and physical, after long listening sessions. 

 Has anyone else noticed this? Have the O2 ruined me for "regular" headphones? Is there that big a difference between stat and dynamic sound?_

 

As regards the difference, I was struck by the similarity of sound between the best dynamics and stats I heard at the LA Canjam. But, and its a big butt, even the best dynamic I heard, the Balanced HD 800, had what I call a grittiness or graininess of sound. 

 When I travel by plane I have the Stax SR001Mk2's for most places and the Senn CX300 IEMs for really noisey situations, usually in the plane because of their better isolation from noise. I usually think the Senns sound very good in a direct A/B comparison with the SR001. But when I use them on the planes, I find I just don't enjoy the music that much. 

 I think that if I had never heard the stats I might be satisfied with the Senns, but it's hard to go back to dynamics after the stats.


----------



## freckling

simple/quick question. would my classe 150 wpc into 8ohms be overkill for a srd-7/sb? i obviously wouldn't want to fry the earspeakers..


----------



## paaj

there is a volume knob for a reason


----------



## Currawong

I feel rather fatigued with HD-800s after using the LNS/007t combo. I wonder if it has to do with them pushing so much more air than stats. It could be the treble peak in the HD-800s partly to blame. Hot trebles in dynamic cans usually bother me, and I don't listen that loud either. It probably also helps that the 007t has just that touch a musicality about it from the tubes too.


----------



## freckling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paaj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_there is a volume knob for a reason 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 



 I just meant that I didn't want a situation where the volume knob was rotated only 1-2 degrees


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *freckling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_simple/quick question. would my classe 150 wpc into 8ohms be overkill for a srd-7/sb? i obviously wouldn't want to fry the earspeakers.._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *freckling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just meant that I didn't want a situation where the volume knob was rotated only 1-2 degrees_

 

Then the Classé 150wpc probably is not the ideal choice.
 Cause with that much of power I am sure you can easily kill the headphone plugged into the SRD-7/SB. Play nice with the volume control though and they should be perfectly safe.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...which is what the Dr. Jecklin did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Indeed so. But the Jecklin drivers held K1000 style in front of the ears, fair little better than the SR-202 drivers, despite their nearly 3x bias voltage and surface area. Then again, they're also held back by insufficient power throughput from the transformers.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why do the Jecklins work? If I remember my old Jecklins, their enclosures extended beyond the drivers (which were only about 4 by 4 inches?) by a few inches, thus acting as a baffle to stop some of the backwave. I think there was also some added foam on the inside which would block the wave. Finally, their drivers are pretty close to the ear which probably blocks some of the backwave from getting in front of the driver_

 


 The enclosure, or helmet, has a few millimeters around the sides, and the same front and back. The grille and foam pads (outside, the inside just had a few tiny neoprene tabs to hold the driver in place which was crazy insufficient) will I suppose have some kind of baffle effect but just how much of one I wouldn't want to bet on. 

 What Id really want to do, if I got my hands on another set, would be to put the drivers into a new housing. One with earpads than seal and had a good tight grip on them. You could do something Sigma-esque with them, but it'd end up very large and clumsy.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *freckling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 I just meant that I didn't want a situation where the volume knob was rotated only 1-2 degrees_

 

Your confusing power and gain. Amplification factor is voltage gain. Power is the ability to put that voltage into a load. The voltage gain on most amps fall between 20 and 35 db. You could have a high gain low powered amp (like a Quad 303) that would be louder at a given volume control setting than a high powered low gain amp (like a Pass Labs). As for overpowering the SRD, just be careful. There are a lot of people that are driving their SRD with a high powered amp.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed so. But the Jecklin drivers held K1000 style in front of the ears, fair little better than the SR-202 drivers, despite their nearly 3x bias voltage and surface area. Then again, they're also held back by insufficient power throughput from the transformers.

 The enclosure, or helmet, has a few millimeters around the sides, and the same front and back. The grille and foam pads (outside, the inside just had a few tiny neoprene tabs to hold the driver in place which was crazy insufficient) will I suppose have some kind of baffle effect but just how much of one I wouldn't want to bet on. 

 What Id really want to do, if I got my hands on another set, would be to put the drivers into a new housing. One with earpads than seal and had a good tight grip on them. You could do something Sigma-esque with them, but it'd end up very large and clumsy._

 

Interesting. 

 I still think that somewhere between the designs of the Jecklins, Sigma and K1000 is another good stat headphone design waiting to be born.


----------



## plaidplatypus

I use a 200 Wpc Nakamichi Stasis with one of my SRD-7Pro adaptors. It works great, I can't wait to try one of the newer Pass Labs amps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My understanding is the whole reason to use a big speaker amp is for the improved dynamic range, but that one would typically never need to put more than an average of 5-15 watts into the transformer, And that the transformer is limited in how much power you can put into the headphones, because of the small transformers inside. True?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel rather fatigued with HD-800s after using the LNS/007t combo. I wonder if it has to do with them pushing so much more air than stats. It could be the treble peak in the HD-800s partly to blame. Hot trebles in dynamic cans usually bother me, and I don't listen that loud either. It probably also helps that the 007t has just that touch a musicality about it from the tubes too._

 

Well, maybe it's just a flaw of your HD800 and perhaps the frequency balance itself. I had a similar fatigue with the HEAudio Jades that a couple of people didn't seem to hear. No doubt, to this day, I still love the Jade's presentation and detail, but I just couldn't get pass the fatiguing aspect of the highs. I like the O2 and LNS and all, but I can't seem to replicate the lush and musical soundscape of the Jades. Of course, this type of presentation causes only some select recordings to sound amazing while others annoying.


----------



## edstrelow

This has been on the Stax site for some while.







 What is it?


----------



## fraseyboy

HALP!

 I've been having thoughts of selling my SRD-7/MK2 and Lambda Pro's to buy some Grado HF2's!

 SOMEONE DO SOMETHING!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HALP!

 I've been having thoughts of selling my SRD-7/MK2 and Lambda Pro's to buy some Grado HF2's!

 SOMEONE DO SOMETHING!_

 

HF-2 are better than Lambda Pro, but keep the SRD-7/Mk2 for your O2 Mk1 or Mk2 that will be better than the HF-2.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HF-2 are better than Lambda Pro, but keep the SRD-7/Mk2 for your O2 Mk1 or Mk2 that will be better than the HF-2._

 

Really? What about normal Lambda's? I couldn't keep the SRD-7/MK2 or I wouldn't be able to afford the HF2.


----------



## Mister Crash

Regarding headaches and irritation with dynamics, are these headphones that you've had (or at least tried) before? I ask this because I'm having kind of the opposite reaction: my O2 system is giving me a headache while dynamics never did.

 In my case, I'm pretty sure it's a matter of how the headphones sit on my head. I realized that the bottom of the O2 earpads were putting pressure on one particular spot on my jawbone, which caused discomfort within minutes and headaches shortly thereafter. I have never had this issue with any of my other phones, which are all dynamics, but none of them put pressure at the same spot.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? What about normal Lambda's? I couldn't keep the SRD-7/MK2 or I wouldn't be able to afford the HF2._

 

The SR-Lamda are much better than Lambda Pro, and it's a closer battle - except for the upper mids etch the Lambda are generally a little better than HF-2 or RS-1 in many ways. The Lambda mids are not as rich and vivid, but that's about it - and yet the Lambda mids are better than the Lambda Pro. Try those first - I thought you were thinking that you were done with stats.


----------



## malldian

Does anyone have the mineral wool or some of that think mylar they would like to sell me?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mister Crash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my case, I'm pretty sure it's a matter of how the headphones sit on my head. I realized that the bottom of the O2 earpads were putting pressure on one particular spot on my jawbone, which caused discomfort within minutes and headaches shortly thereafter. I have never had this issue with any of my other phones, which are all dynamics, but none of them put pressure at the same spot._

 

You can rotate the O2 earpads independently of the earcup, and by adjusting the relative position of the thick part of the "D" you can put as much pressure on whatever spot as you want. You can also bend the headband mercilessly to adjust clamping force.

 Proper pad rotation is essential to proper fit, which in turn is essential to proper sound. A driver-ear distance chance of a few mm can have a big impact on sound quality with the O2.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lamda are much better than Lambda Pro, and it's a closer battle - except for the upper mids etch the Lambda are generally a little better than HF-2 or RS-1 in many ways. The Lambda mids are not as rich and vivid, but that's about it - and yet the Lambda mids are better than the Lambda Pro. Try those first - I thought you were thinking that you were done with stats._

 

I may be done with stats. I'm not sure. I'll give the Lambda's a try but if I don't like them, I'm sure there will be plenty of buyers for my equipment.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I may be done with stats. I'm not sure. I'll give the Lambda's a try but if I don't like them, I'm sure there will be plenty of buyers for my equipment._

 

Also, I've had 2 different pairs of SR-5NB gold edition (one with ribbon cable I have now, one with cloth cable that I sold) and they both sounded alike, and very good. I've called them an "electrostatic RS-1" before, and they are also similar in some ways to the ESP-950 re-cabled with a Stax cable. You might want to give either of those two a try (SR-5NB gold or ESP-950). Soundstage with either one is smaller than with SR-Lambda, but the upper mids etch is not there - good strong bass, rich mids, and sparkly highs. I find them both to be a little more transparent than the Grados. They also work very well with the SRD-7 Mk2.


----------



## webbie64

HeadphoneAddict, ATM I've committed to sending him my Lambda Normals to try after the http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f24/we...2009-a-420534/ and now I can see a request for my ESP950s to join them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any other headphones from my collection you'd like to recommend he try? (I don't have a SR-5NB gold ATM)...

 ...or should I just fund him an airfare to come over for a visit?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict, ATM I've committed to sending him my Lambda Normals to try after the http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f24/we...2009-a-420534/ and now I can see a request for my ESP950s to join them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any other headphones from my collection you'd like to recommend he try? (I don't have a SR-5NB gold ATM)...

 ...or should I just fund him an airfare to come over for a visit? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, I think that covers it all, unless you have an HE60 you can spare... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 So... Do you agree with my comments and suggestions to him?


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HeadphoneAddict, ATM I've committed to sending him my Lambda Normals to try after the http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f24/we...2009-a-420534/ and now I can see a request for my ESP950s to join them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any other headphones from my collection you'd like to recommend he try? (I don't have a SR-5NB gold ATM)...

 ...or should I just fund him an airfare to come over for a visit? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Jesus Christ, I need to give you something in return for all this :O

 How do you feel about chocolate chip cookies?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I think that covers it all, unless you have an HE60 you can spare... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So... Do you agree with my comments and suggestions to him?_

 

I think the HE60 SQ might be a bit dependent on what amp he fed the SRD7-Pro: I much prefer it with the Woo GES over any of my SRD units. Besides, I didn't think he was quite at this level of funding yet - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/wt...r-bhse-432321/

 And, yes, I had also PMed him seperately re: the Lambda Normal SQ preference - your suggestions are smart for someone exploring the electrostat world IMHO: it's too easy to spend lots of money exploring ESPs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you feel about chocolate chip cookies? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So what exactly are you talking about here...
your best ever choc chip cookie recipe ?
Chocolate chip cookies | Recipes and foods for Kiwi food lovers | foodlovers.co.nz ?

 If you think finding the right headphone (and corresponding set-up) for you is a challenge, you should see the variety of choc chip cookie discussion out there...


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what exactly are you talking about here...
your best ever choc chip cookie recipe ?
Chocolate chip cookies | Recipes and foods for Kiwi food lovers | foodlovers.co.nz ?

 If you think finding the right headphone (and corresponding set-up) for you is a challenge, you should see the variety of choc chip cookie discussion out there... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Well personally, I've tried a few and I find this recipe Best Chocolate Chip Cookies - All Recipes to be very good. But as with headphones, someone else might prefer another recipe.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well personally, I've tried a few and I find this recipe Best Chocolate Chip Cookies - All Recipes to be very good. But as with headphones, someone else might prefer another recipe._

 

Aaah, that elusive synergy issue again.


----------



## odoe

A friend from work gave me a Stax Lambda Pro and Stax SRM-1/MK-2 that he wasn't using anymore (he's a speaker guy). They're about 20 years old, but look to be in great shape. I can't wait to get them home and try them out. I just need to find new foam inserts as the old ones have detiororated. My first electrostatics! I'm excited.


----------



## webbie64

Congrats, odoe. If only we all had friends like that.

 Some have tried without the foam so have a listen even before you replicate/replace the inserts. That'll also verify for you that everything else is a.o.k.

 Let us know what you think of their sound.


----------



## odoe

Ok, so I had a chance to play with them for a while.
 I compared the Stax with my only other set of nice cans, Senn HD580's and my DIY Millet Max Hybrid.
 I use foobar(via wasapi) on my pc to a TC-7510 (not the best source, but all I got) and listened to the following tracks all FLAC.

 Jeff Buckley - Hallelujah
 Ida Maria - I Like You So Much Better When You're Naked
 Klaus Schulze - Bayreuth Return
 Kraftwerk - Radioactivity
 Elvis Costello - My Aim is True
 Aphex Twin - Acrid Avid Jamshred

 First song I threw on was Hallelujah and I absolutely loved it. I could hear lips smacking, it was fantastic through the the Stax. I could make out those little lip smacks through my HD580s, but I had to listen for them. With the Stax, it was just there. For all I know though, these could just be anomalies on the track.

 Ida Maria was ok, but I think I prefer this tune through my HD580's. It just didn't seem to have that oomph I was used to with the track. It's a really fun song if you've heard it and through the Stax seemed too, I don't know . . . technical, lacking maybe? Not sure about terminology to use in my descriptions, sorry. I think I would say the same about the Kraftwerk track. It's from 1975, and I just like the way it sounds with my HD580's better. With the the Stax, it sounded like it was from 1975, unlike with my HD580s.

 The other tracks sounded superb on the Stax. Costello was so crisp and clear. Schulze was also more inviting. This is another track from 1975 and sounds great on both my cans, but I think the Stax wins out in clarity for this track.

 I was really surprised with the Aphex Twin track. This track has some pretty deep bass in it and was nice and crisp with the Stax. Not just that, but very much "bassy". My HD580's are great with this track too, but it feels like the bass is being blown in my ear as opposed to presented to me with the Stax if that makes sense. Sometimes I like bassiness. Tough call on this one, as the HD580 has a fun factor to it.

 I don't know how much my source gear (TC-7510) may be holding my cans and amps back, but just based off what I have, these were my impressions.

 All in all, I think I am going to be enjoying these Stax very much. They seem to provide a very clear presentation of the music. I can see why some people may not like them (being almost too detailed), but for a lot of stuff, I can see where I might just love them, such as the Buckley and Costello tracks I listened to. I think I'm going to spend a lot of time with these cans (maybe a Pete Namlook marathon session 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and maybe some day when I have some better gear I can give back as was given to me and pass them down.


----------



## insyte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *odoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A friend from work gave me a Stax Lambda Pro and Stax SRM-1/MK-2 that he wasn't using anymore (he's a speaker guy). They're about 20 years old, but look to be in great shape. I can't wait to get them home and try them out. I just need to find new foam inserts as the old ones have detiororated. My first electrostatics! I'm excited._

 

I wish I had friends like yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also just got mine recently and I agree about the level of detail it gives


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *odoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A friend from work gave me a Stax Lambda Pro and Stax SRM-1/MK-2 that he wasn't using anymore (he's a speaker guy). They're about 20 years old, but look to be in great shape. I can't wait to get them home and try them out. I just need to find new foam inserts as the old ones have detiororated. My first electrostatics! I'm excited._

 

Probably better to get new ear pads. They have the foam attached. Only about $30.00 from Japanese sources such as Audiocubes 2.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mister Crash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding headaches and irritation with dynamics, are these headphones that you've had (or at least tried) before? I ask this because I'm having kind of the opposite reaction: my O2 system is giving me a headache while dynamics never did.

 In my case, I'm pretty sure it's a matter of how the headphones sit on my head. I realized that the bottom of the O2 earpads were putting pressure on one particular spot on my jawbone, which caused discomfort within minutes and headaches shortly thereafter. I have never had this issue with any of my other phones, which are all dynamics, but none of them put pressure at the same spot._

 

Sounds like you need to bend the metal bands (arc assembly in Stax lingo). They are pretty tough but try the rotation first.


----------



## Victor Chew

Anyone knows the difference between the SRD-7/mk2 and the SRD-7/SBmk2.


----------



## paaj

If I remember it right, the SB (self biassing or something like that) version does not need a power supply to create the power needed to drive the headphones. It gets it from the line-in power. I think I read that sometimes with quieter music / low volume this can sometimes cause underpowering problems?


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone knows the difference between the SRD-7/mk2 and the SRD-7/SBmk2._

 

SB=self-biasing which basically means it doesn't need a wallwart to operate, I don't know if there is a difference in sound as well. The SRD-7/SBmk2 is a very rare variant.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My SRD-7 Mk2 is an SB and it takes longer to charge up the phones than my SRD-7 Pro, but sounds just as good. I can sometimes get a ground loop hum in my SRD-7 Pro that is not an issue with my SB since it doesn't plug into the wall.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *odoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, so I had a chance to play with them for a while.
 I compared the Stax with my only other set of nice cans, Senn HD580's and my DIY Millet Max Hybrid.
 I use foobar(via wasapi) on my pc to a TC-7510 (not the best source, but all I got) and listened to the following tracks all FLAC.

 Jeff Buckley - Hallelujah
 Ida Maria - I Like You So Much Better When You're Naked
 Klaus Schulze - Bayreuth Return
 Kraftwerk - Radioactivity
 Elvis Costello - My Aim is True
 Aphex Twin - Acrid Avid Jamshred

 First song I threw on was Hallelujah and I absolutely loved it. I could hear lips smacking, it was fantastic through the the Stax. I could make out those little lip smacks through my HD580s, but I had to listen for them. With the Stax, it was just there. For all I know though, these could just be anomalies on the track.

 Ida Maria was ok, but I think I prefer this tune through my HD580's. It just didn't seem to have that oomph I was used to with the track. It's a really fun song if you've heard it and through the Stax seemed too, I don't know . . . technical, lacking maybe? Not sure about terminology to use in my descriptions, sorry. I think I would say the same about the Kraftwerk track. It's from 1975, and I just like the way it sounds with my HD580's better. With the the Stax, it sounded like it was from 1975, unlike with my HD580s.

 The other tracks sounded superb on the Stax. Costello was so crisp and clear. Schulze was also more inviting. This is another track from 1975 and sounds great on both my cans, but I think the Stax wins out in clarity for this track.

 I was really surprised with the Aphex Twin track. This track has some pretty deep bass in it and was nice and crisp with the Stax. Not just that, but very much "bassy". My HD580's are great with this track too, but it feels like the bass is being blown in my ear as opposed to presented to me with the Stax if that makes sense. Sometimes I like bassiness. Tough call on this one, as the HD580 has a fun factor to it.

 I don't know how much my source gear (TC-7510) may be holding my cans and amps back, but just based off what I have, these were my impressions.

 All in all, I think I am going to be enjoying these Stax very much. They seem to provide a very clear presentation of the music. I can see why some people may not like them (being almost too detailed), but for a lot of stuff, I can see where I might just love them, such as the Buckley and Costello tracks I listened to. I think I'm going to spend a lot of time with these cans (maybe a Pete Namlook marathon session 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and maybe some day when I have some better gear I can give back as was given to me and pass them down._

 

Odoe - When I first got my Stax (SR-202) I was surprised at how well they jam. I believe there is a misconception regarding Stax's ability to portray certain types of music (e.g., rock). With that being said, what I really noticed was how much system matching makes a difference (as has been said in many other posts). I currently using a Marantz SA-15 SACD player that matches well with my SR-404s. I've thought about upgrading my CD player, but will likely wait until I get a pair of Omegas (the same goes with an upgraded amp). 

 Glad to read you're enjoying them.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Odoe - When I first got my Stax (SR-202) I was surprised at how well they jam. I believe there is a misconception regarding Stax's ability to portray certain types of music (e.g., rock). With that being said, what I really noticed was how much system matching makes a difference (as has been said in many other posts). I currently using a Marantz SA-15 SACD player that matches well with my SR-404s. I've thought about upgrading my CD player, but will likely wait until I get a pair of Omegas (the same goes with an upgraded amp). 

 Glad to read you're enjoying them._

 

Agree with this. Also something I don't see discussed much and that is that in my experience most Stax/Koss electrostatic phones need a day or 2 od use to show their full capability. 

 Eg. I run a Stax SRM1Mk2 amp at my office with either the Lambda Signature or Sigma Pro. After a week or so of listening to the Signature the Sigma seemed to lack some capability from what I remembered the last time I listened even though they had been warmed up a bit. However I left them plugged in, but not on, over night and the next day warmed them up for about an hour before listening and they showed a notable gain, especially in the bass. Listening to a local jazz group I had felt that the double bass was missing on day one but much more pronounced on day 2.

 This is not an amp issue since the amp is used every day. I think there rae charge-up issue with stats, that they can develope residual charges when left around. I once worked with a technician who actually measured this type of "electret effect" as he called it on a slightly different type of electrostatic transducer. He was making them by hand and puzzled at the variability in measured performance.

 As far as I can tell though the problem is solved by regular use and, I personally think, by leaving the phones pluged in when not in use. Alternatively I think you need to dsicharge them say by touching the pins when you take the phones out of the amp.


----------



## Victor Chew

Thanks paaj, padam and Larry for the useful comments. My efforts to get a 717 has so far not been successful. Seen a few WBT in the sale forum though, that makes me feel that there is a shortage. Thought I try the energiser road instead and plug it to my B22.


----------



## Lil' Knight

I may let my 717 go, but only when I can find a KGSS 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW, welcome back to the 007, Victor!


----------



## fraseyboy

Well I've got my Lambda Pro's up in the FS forum and I'm planning to buy the HF2. In all honesty, I could be completely happy with just my AD700's for a while. I will keep the SRD-7/Mk2 though as I recognize the usefulness of having it. 

 Every time I mention it I get bombarded by offers to buy it >_<


----------



## gilency

well, I would happily buy an SRD-7 if anybody has one to spare!


----------



## fraseyboy

Edit: Erm, how did this post happen... Accidental delayed double post...


----------



## gilency

sorry. it was intended as a joke. poor sense of humor in my part. I apologize.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry. it was intended as a joke. poor sense of humor in my part. I apologize._

 

My post wasn't really supposed to be in a negative tone if that's what you're referring to. I don't mind getting offers. It reminds me of how valuable the SRD-7/MK2 is


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My post wasn't really supposed to be in a negative tone if that's what you're referring to. I don't mind getting offers. It reminds me of how valuable the SRD-7/MK2 is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It is not the appropriate thread to buy or sell, but you are right, there is interest in those 'old boxes'. I am surprised however, nobody has manufactured something similar, and even more surprised not a lot of aftermarket electrostatic amplifiers are available. Granted, is a niche market, but still..... there are some people out there who would buy them. At least Woo Audio has them....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is not the appropriate thread to buy or sell, but you are right, there is interest in those 'old boxes'. I am surprised however, nobody has manufactured something similar, and even more surprised not a lot of aftermarket electrostatic amplifiers are available. Granted, is a niche market, but still..... there are some people out there who would buy them. At least Woo Audio has them...._

 

There was the Illusion aftermarket transformer for a while, but it's no longer made.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agree with this. Also something I don't see discussed much and that is that in my experience most Stax/Koss electrostatic phones need a day or 2 od use to show their full capability. 

 Eg. I run a Stax SRM1Mk2 amp at my office with either the Lambda Signature or Sigma Pro. After a week or so of listening to the Signature the Sigma seemed to lack some capability from what I remembered the last time I listened even though they had been warmed up a bit. However I left them plugged in, but not on, over night and the next day warmed them up for about an hour before listening and they showed a notable gain, especially in the bass. Listening to a local jazz group I had felt that the double bass was missing on day one but much more pronounced on day 2.

 This is not an amp issue since the amp is used every day. I think there rae charge-up issue with stats, that they can develope residual charges when left around. I once worked with a technician who actually measured this type of "electret effect" as he called it on a slightly different type of electrostatic transducer. He was making them by hand and puzzled at the variability in measured performance.

 As far as I can tell though the problem is solved by regular use and, I personally think, by leaving the phones pluged in when not in use. Alternatively I think you need to dsicharge them say by touching the pins when you take the phones out of the amp._

 

I leave my Stax plugged in when not in use. If anything, it's just easier that way. Definitely agree that if you let the amp warm up with the Stax plugged in, it makes a huge difference. I forgot to turn my GES off earlier today, but was glad I didn't when I decided to listen to them later tonight. Having been left on for several hours, I was amazed at how good they sounded, particularly listening to New Order, not known to be an audiophile recording. Still, the imaging was incredible and I heard details on the CD I never noticed before.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I leave my Stax plugged in when not in use. If anything, it's just easier that way. Definitely agree that if you let the amp warm up with the Stax plugged in, it makes a huge difference. I forgot to turn my GES off earlier today, but was glad I didn't when I decided to listen to them later tonight. Having been left on for several hours, I was amazed at how good they sounded, particularly listening to New Order, not known to be an audiophile recording. Still, the imaging was incredible and I heard details on the CD I never noticed before._

 

Johnnie - are you coming to the Colorado head-fi meet on 7/25 in Denver?

 See my signature line at the bottom of my post for the link to the thread about it, and post there if you can come and what gear you want to bring.

 On topic, I have a GES too and the sound responds very well to an upgraded matched quad of 12AX7 tubes. You should look for some Telefunken smooth plates, or early 60's GE, or even some cryo treated new re-issue Mullards (all between $100-150 for a quad). I am currently using some early 60's GE "Wurlitzer" 12AX7. Those are all much better than the stock EH 12AX7 or NOS 12BZ7 that Woo carries.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnnie - are you coming to the Colorado head-fi meet on 7/25 in Denver?

 See my signature line at the bottom of my post for the link to the thread about it, and post there if you can come and what gear you want to bring.

 On topic, I have a GES too and the sound responds very well to an upgraded matched quad of 12AX7 tubes. You should look for some Telefunken smooth plates, or early 60's GE, or even some cryo treated new re-issue Mullards (all between $100-150 for a quad). I am currently using some early 60's GE "Wurlitzer" 12AX7. Those are all much better than the stock EH 12AX7 or NOS 12BZ7 that Woo carries._

 

I am sure this works but discussion of tube rolling makes me glad I have only transistor amps. I would spend way too much time and money changing tubes.


----------



## dickbianchi

the classic YMMV number. In earlier years when all my equipment was solid state, I was sure I was missing something by lacking tubes. For some time I have userd mostly tube and hybrid stuff, and recently have heard some wonderful solid state electronics. 

 The thing that makes a piece of equipment good for me is that I dont want to be listening to the music on something else, which is another way of saying Im listening to the music and not the equipment. (This is never 100% but when I do hear the equipment somethings wrong and it interferes. And sometimes you hear the equipment in a good way as when an upgrade revises a listening experience.)

 I dont spend more money on Tube equipment than solid state (I buy most things second hand) and rolling a tube can be a real upgrade, the kind of expense that saves you a more expensive upgrade. Recently using a couple of Mullard EL-34s on a hybrid power amp banished all thoughts of replacing it... I am oh,so happy. Someday when the tubes burn out on my 007t, I will be seeking out pricey japanese glass in search of yet, another thrill (tho I am very happy with this amp and its stock tubes). 

 Hey... another thing to play with!


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I may let my 717 go, but only when I can find a KGSS 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, welcome back to the 007, Victor! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did a big comparison (search this forum) between the 717, 007t and KGSS. I ended up selling the KGSS and keeping the 717 and 007t. I like the 717 for the O2 and O2mk2 and the 007t with all my other Stax phones.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did a big comparison (search this forum) between the 717, 007t and KGSS. I ended up selling the KGSS and keeping the 717 and 007t. I like the 717 for the O2 and O2mk2 and the 007t with all my other Stax phones._

 

Now I don't know whether to smile or cry.


----------



## fraseyboy

Just wondering...

 Are there any sound differences between the SRD-7/Mk2 and the SRD-7/SB? Because there is a SRD-7/SB and Lambda Normal on the FS forum for a good price... I could sell the SRD-7/Mk2 and the Lambda Pro's, buy the SRD-7/SB combo and still have enough for some HF2's :O


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering...

 Are there any sound differences between the SRD-7/Mk2 and the SRD-7/SB? Because there is a SRD-7/SB and Lambda Normal on the FS forum for a good price... I could sell the SRD-7/Mk2 and the Lambda Pro's, buy the SRD-7/SB combo and still have enough for some HF2's :O_

 

The SR-Lambda with SRD-7 Mk2 is minimally better than with SRD-7SB. To me it's really hard to tell a difference, so if you can do both the SR-Lambda/SRD-7SB and HF-2 I would go for it.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-Lambda with SRD-7 Mk2 is minimally better than with SRD-7SB. To me it's really hard to tell a difference, so if you can do both the SR-Lambda/SRD-7SB and HF-2 I would go for it._

 

Actually, naah. I'll keep the SRD-7/Mk2. It has both Pro and Normal outputs, whereas the SB only has normal. It'll be more versatile down the line. 

 Someone hurry up and buy ma Lambda Pro's :/


----------



## Currawong

This SRD-7 talk is making me want to get one to try, now that I have an old Luxman amp.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone knows the difference between the SRD-7/mk2 and the SRD-7/SBmk2._

 

Yup, several of us do...

 SB is short for *S*elf *B*ias. Meaning that it draw power for the bias from the audio signal, and not through the wall plug.


----------



## fraseyboy

Is the quality of the solder between the SRD-7/Mk2's speaker cable and an extension speaker cable going to make a difference to the sound quality? What about the quality of the cable itself?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This SRD-7 talk is making me want to get one to try, now that I have an old Luxman amp._

 

Where you are located now, there ought to be plenty of stax equipment. I also understand that you can get it at a better price in Japan. There is an SRD7 at the kuboTen website that you may want to look at. Problem is, people like me can't read or understand a word of Japanese. If I do need any equipment from Japan, I normally ask Craig to middleman the transaction.

 I have been fortunate and managed to get hold of a brand new SRD7mk2 and also a brand new SRD SB7 mk2 a couple of days back. Wanted to choose either one but ended up picking up both.

 The SRD7SBmk2 takes longer to charge up the O2mk1.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the quality of the solder between the SRD-7/Mk2's speaker cable and an extension speaker cable going to make a difference to the sound quality? What about the quality of the cable itself?_

 

I think alot of things in the music chain equipment makes a difference. But the question is how much difference it will make.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnnie - are you coming to the Colorado head-fi meet on 7/25 in Denver?

 See my signature line at the bottom of my post for the link to the thread about it, and post there if you can come and what gear you want to bring.

 On topic, I have a GES too and the sound responds very well to an upgraded matched quad of 12AX7 tubes. You should look for some Telefunken smooth plates, or early 60's GE, or even some cryo treated new re-issue Mullards (all between $100-150 for a quad). I am currently using some early 60's GE "Wurlitzer" 12AX7. Those are all much better than the stock EH 12AX7 or NOS 12BZ7 that Woo carries._

 

Larry - thanks for the information regarding upgrading the tubes. I definitely want to do some tube rolling, but given how much is available in the 12AX7 family, it's almost too much of a good thing. Vintage Tube Services has some very nice tubes, albeit expensive. Any recommendation for a good tube source would be appreciated. 

 As for attending the meet in Denver, I should be able to make if for some of the day. I have two young girls and so my wife counts on me for some relief during the weekend. I'll post what I can bring on the thread for the meet.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Larry - thanks for the information regarding upgrading the tubes. I definitely want to do some tube rolling, but given how much is available in the 12AX7 family, it's almost too much of a good thing. Vintage Tube Services has some very nice tubes, albeit expensive. Any recommendation for a good tube source would be appreciated. 

 As for attending the meet in Denver, I should be able to make if for some of the day. I have two young girls and so my wife counts on me for some relief during the weekend. I'll post what I can bring on the thread for the meet._

 

I got the tubes for my GES on eBay, just spent time watching and bidding.

 Looking forward to seeing you at the Colorado meet!


----------



## jherbert

How can I tell a O2mk1 from a O2mk2? I have a set that came with the SRM727 and have no idea how to identify the headphone. any help is really appreciated.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-007 Mk1 has champagne colored housings with either black (rather rare) or brown cable, earpads and arc assembly. The SR-007Mk2 is all black, even the aluminum housing. There is also the Japanese SR-007A which is identical to the Mk2 but is has polished silver aluminum parts while the rest is black. It also says SR-007A or Mk2 on top of the headpad.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jherbert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can I tell a O2mk1 from a O2mk2? I have a set that came with the SRM727 and have no idea how to identify the headphone. any help is really appreciated._

 

There are four (4) different O2 models:

*1997-2007* (often referred to as MK1)
 * SR-007 -> Brown leather/cable and champagne housing (picture)
 * SR-007BL -> Black leather/cable and champagne housing (picture of my pair)

*2007-*
 * SR-007A -> Black leather/cable and silver housing (picture)
 * SR-007MK2 -> Black leather/cable and black housing (picture)

 As you see, the MK1 have champagne colored housing. While the MK2 have black colored housing.


----------



## mikeymad

I must say I like the looks of the 007A better than the Mk2 (thx for the pics)...

 I will stick with my classic champagne and brown for now.

 Cheers,


----------



## jherbert

Thank you all for your answers. Seems I have a MK1.


----------



## mopps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mikeymad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I must say I like the looks of the 007A better than the Mk2 (thx for the pics)...

 I will stick with my classic champagne and brown for now.

 Cheers,_

 

AFAIK the 007II is also available in silver, while the 007A is only available in silver.
 As for me, I like the 007's champagne more than the somewhat clinical matt silver of my 007A.


----------



## kelvinz

Just received my first Stax phone. I'm a bit amazed how loud they are already between the 3-4 marks! Off to do some comparisons!


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kelvinz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my first Stax phone. I'm a bit amazed how loud they are already between the 3-4 marks! Off to do some comparisons!_

 

Kelvinz - I would definitely be interested in hearing how your Stax compare to your other phones. You definitely have a strong collection of phones. I noticed you have the Omega IIs. Did you leapfrog over the less expensive Stax (e.g., SR-202)? 

 It's been suggested here that folks should simply start at the Omegas and bypass all the others as typically most end up getting the Omegas at some point. I'm still working to get to that level. I'm afraid of the expense when I decide I need to upgrade the rest of my system upon getting the Omegas. 

 Happy listening!

 Johnnie


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been suggested here that folks should simply start at the Omegas and bypass all the others as typically most end up getting the Omegas at some point._

 

Not a bad plan, but I'd personally recommend starting at the normal Lambdas and seeing if there's any good reason to keep going. There wasn't for me


----------



## kelvinz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kelvinz - I would definitely be interested in hearing how your Stax compare to your other phones. You definitely have a strong collection of phones. I noticed you have the Omega IIs. Did you leapfrog over the less expensive Stax (e.g., SR-202)? 

 It's been suggested here that folks should simply start at the Omegas and bypass all the others as typically most end up getting the Omegas at some point. I'm still working to get to that level. I'm afraid of the expense when I decide I need to upgrade the rest of my system upon getting the Omegas. 

 Happy listening!

 Johnnie_

 

Johnnie: I'm not the best at describing how headphone sound different but I will give it my best, though it may take me a few weeks to find the time.

 I did leapfrog over the less expensive Stax. I also had read numerous times to just go with the Omegas.


----------



## Duckman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kelvinz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my first Stax phone. I'm a bit amazed how loud they are already between the 3-4 marks! Off to do some comparisons!_

 

Same here! Thanks to Oublie, I've entered the world of stax: Lambda Sigs and T1W.


----------



## 2deadeyes

I hope they provide many hours of aural bliss, Kelvin! :]


----------



## kelvinz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *2deadeyes* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope they provide many hours of aural bliss, Kelvin! :]_

 

I believe they will! Thank you


----------



## Currawong

Since I'm sure I'll end up purchasing the 007t I have on loan, it's been suggested that I do a cap upgrade to it, at least to the power supply section. Has anyone ever modded one? Are there known mods worth doing?


----------



## Lil' Knight

That's interesting. If I can't find a KGSS within next month then I'll still happy with the 717. Would be great if we can put in some BlackGates or v-cap there.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's been suggested here that folks should simply start at the Omegas and bypass all the others as typically most end up getting the Omegas at some point._

 

That is the way to go!
 Which is why I went directly from Grado SR80 to Stax SR-007BL / SRM-007t.


----------



## Uncle Erik

Alright, I'm a longtime member and first time poster in this thread. Maybe some of you have seen me around the boards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I'm about to close a deal on a pair of Omega IIs. I was wondering if any of you have experience using them with Kevin Gilmore's AC coupled all triode electrostat amp, as detailed on Headwize.

 I'm planning to build an amp for these and I greatly prefer tubes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Blue Hawaii is interesting, but a little intimidating at this point. Maybe some day. I'm slightly committed already - I bought the transformer, tubes and chips (for the power supply) some time ago and have been dithering on this. But a good opportunity for the Omega II turned up and I'm going for it!

 Anyhow, does anyone have any thoughts or impressions of this amp? Has anyone built one?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Uncle Erik* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright, I'm a longtime member and first time poster in this thread. Maybe some of you have seen me around the boards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I'm about to close a deal on a pair of Omega IIs. I was wondering if any of you have experience using them with Kevin Gilmore's AC coupled all triode electrostat amp, as detailed on Headwize.

 I'm planning to build an amp for these and I greatly prefer tubes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Blue Hawaii is interesting, but a little intimidating at this point. Maybe some day. I'm slightly committed already - I bought the transformer, tubes and chips (for the power supply) some time ago and have been dithering on this. But a good opportunity for the Omega II turned up and I'm going for it!

 Anyhow, does anyone have any thoughts or impressions of this amp? Has anyone built one?_

 

I'd be interested to see who has built one. I would expect it to sound similar to my Woo GES which is a modified all triode amp based on the Dr. Gilmore design, but since they are still different I have no way of knowing how close they are.


----------



## FrankCooter

Uncle Erik, I considered building the Kevin Gilmore design you reference, but elected to take my own path and start from scratch. This design, like almost all currently published designs is derivative of the original Stax designs. These are complex, usually require four stages, global feedback, multiple power supplies, and often employ hybrid topology. How many people understand and can troubleshoot a "Blue Hawaii"?

 Consider a single ended transformer output amp. Two stages, a single power supply, no global feedback, and a parts count of under a dozen components per channel.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same here! Thanks to Oublie, I've entered the world of stax: Lambda Sigs and T1W._

 

How are you finding your new toys David?


----------



## spritzer

One member who is active here, Kerry, has built one and he has brought it to meets with good results. It's also on my long list of amps waiting to be built but it may take a while... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm with Frank that there are other avenues to consider when building 'stat amps then the basic direct drive amps but if you have the majority of the parts at hand then I'd say, go for it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One member who is active here, Kerry, has built one and he has brought it to meets with good results. It's also on my long list of amps waiting to be built but it may take a while... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm with Frank that there are other avenues to consider when building 'stat amps then the basic direct drive amps but if you have the majority of the parts at hand then I'd say, go for it._

 

I just acquired 2x KGBH boards, 6x 2SC2240BL, 6x 2SA970BL and Stax socket. If you or anyone else has a printed BOM that would be a great help to me. I already understand about the standoffs and B+ lines needing to be watched carefully so it doesn't short out. but I have no idea what I am doing, and will likely recruit some help in the form of Wiatrob, Sherwood or Naamanf in putting it together after I round up all the parts.


----------



## Sherwood

I'd probably be useful insofar as I could call Naaman and Bill 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Seriously, though, happy to help in any way I can, Larry.


----------



## spritzer

There is no complete BOM that I know of and the only one I have is simply a list of the resistors needed but you can just read that off the PCB. Now your biggest hurdle is finding heatsinks/chassis which can dissipate the heat and then set the operation point for the CCS.


----------



## Duckman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are you finding your new toys David?_

 

In general, I'm enjoying them exceedingly. Love what they do for well recorded jazz and classical - the Telarc Classical Sampler Vol 2, for example, sounds stunning. So clear and life-like.

 With rock music, I'm ambivalent. Some of it sounds quite good. Albums that have that analogue/rolled-off-highs feel to them (like Richie Blackmore's Rainbow, Machine Head - showing my sympathies here) sound wonderful; smooth, full bodied, and involving. However, the heavier recordings I have - Dream Theater et al, don't sound so great. The high frequencies (upper guitars/cymbals/upper vocals) are a bit shrill, and the impact that I'm used to is missing. Perhaps the recordings themselves leave something to be desired (?).

 My ears have a fair amoung of adjusting to do still, I'm sure.

 In terms of comfort, they are fantastic.

 Cheers!


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kelvinz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Johnnie: I'm not the best at describing how headphone sound different but I will give it my best, though it may take me a few weeks to find the time.

 I did leapfrog over the less expensive Stax. I also had read numerous times to just go with the Omegas. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Kelvinz - I understand exactly. It's hard for me to convey in writing how a particular headphone sounds. Some folks clearly have a knack for it. In any event, enjoy the Stax. They truly are great cans.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In general, I'm enjoying them exceedingly. Love what they do for well recorded jazz and classical - the Telarc Classical Sampler Vol 2, for example, sounds stunning. So clear and life-like.

 With rock music, I'm ambivalent. Some of it sounds quite good. Albums that have that analogue/rolled-off-highs feel to them (like Richie Blackmore's Rainbow, Machine Head - showing my sympathies here) sound wonderful; smooth, full bodied, and involving. However, the heavier recordings I have - Dream Theater et al, don't sound so great. The high frequencies (upper guitars/cymbals/upper vocals) are a bit shrill, and the impact that I'm used to is missing. Perhaps the recordings themselves leave something to be desired (?).

 My ears have a fair amoung of adjusting to do still, I'm sure.

 In terms of comfort, they are fantastic.

 Cheers!_

 

I did a comprison recently of the Lambda Signature, 404 and Nova Classic.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 I thought the Sig was slightly down in bass, and definitely down in midrange compared to the others but overall had a very pleasing sound and I thought was listenable on a wider range of material than the others, although it was not necessarily more accurate tonally.

 Many stats (but not Sigmas and 005's) have a treble edginess on recordings which may have too much recorded treble. Telarcs generally don't have a treble edge, but a lot of rock/pop is treblish. 

 Often cables can make a difference. I also recommend Silclear on all contacts and even a cheap noise remover such as PS Audio's noise harvester can make the treble smoother on all recordings.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey Sherwood,

 I see you have the srd6sb in your profile. what amp do you like with it?


----------



## gilency

can you use earspeakers with pro bias with the SRD-6SB?


----------



## spritzer

They will work but the lower bias voltage will provide less potential so the sound is a bit softer.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They will work but the lower bias voltage will provide less potential so the sound is a bit softer._

 

Thanks. Can they be modded to use the higher bias voltage?


----------



## Victor Chew

I have been toggling between the SRD7 mk2 and the SRD7SB mk2 through my B22. The SRD 7 mk2 sounds louder at the same volume. The difference is about 1 level. The SRD7mk 2 seem to have more power and a little brighter and more impact in the bass as well as extension. The mid of the SRD7mk also seems a little more forward. As both the units are new, these findings may change when they get more play time. Anyone knows how much run in time, if any, they need to sound their best?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Can they be modded to use the higher bias voltage?_

 

In the schematics provided for the SRD7mk2, 2 diodes appears to be used for the normal bias but for the pro bias, in addition to the 2, 4 more are added. This makes a total of 6 diodes. There are also added capacitors between the additional diodes. 

 Strangely, for the SRD7SBmk2, 5 more diodes are added to the 2 making it at total of 7 for the pro bias section. 

 Spritzer, am I correct in the above?


----------



## spritzer

I have the SRD-7Mk2SB schematic here somewhere and it uses the same bias supply as the wall powered version but has an extra transformer to step up the AC from the amp even further. There might be some other versions as some units had 450v Zeners on the Pro output while others don't. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. Can they be modded to use the higher bias voltage?_

 

Yes but you would have to build a new bias supply. It's not that hard though since the Stax schematics are known and you can find them in this thread. I'm also working on a PCB to be fitted into SRD units to modify them to Pro bias but it's not anywhere close to being finished. Way too many projects and so little time...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As both the units are new, these findings may change when they get more play time. Anyone knows how much run in time, if any, they need to sound their best?_

 

I'd say they wouldn't need any time to run in. It's just a lot of copper with some basic parts thrown into the mix.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Sherwood,

 I see you have the srd6sb in your profile. what amp do you like with it?_

 

Hey Keith!

 I've tried quite a few amps with it recently. At the moment I'm using it bedside with a trends TA 10.1, and it sounds wonderful. The Trends is a solid little Class D amp, and be had for under $150, so it's well worth a listen.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been toggling between the SRD7 mk2 and the SRD7SB mk2 through my B22. . As both the units are new, ?_

 

I thought Stax had stopped making these about 10 years ago. Have you found a source for these?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought Stax had stopped making these about 10 years ago. Have you found a source for these?_

 

They aren't in current production but you can still find NOS unit sitting on shelfs.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They aren't in current production but you can still find NOS unit sitting on shelfs._

 

 mmmhh...where? I have not been able to find one.


----------



## krmathis

^ If we knew there would very soon be none left. Aka, we do not know.
 Some just find them in local stores from time to time.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ If we knew there would very soon be none left. Aka, we do not know.
 Some just find them in local stores from time to time._

 

 so KRMATHIS, you are hoarding all those SRD-7's then?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so KRMATHIS, you are hoarding all those SRD-7's then? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If I find one, with a fair price tag, I will certainly snatch it. That is true!


----------



## gilency

LOL...now, don't be selfish!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As both the units are new, these findings may change when they get more play time. Anyone knows how much run in time, if any, they need to sound their best?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd say they wouldn't need any time to run in. It's just a lot of copper with some basic parts thrown into the mix._

 

There's also HeadphoneAddict's indication that the SRD-7Mk2SB takes considerably longer to reach full bias charge of the ESPs - that could affect the sound if Victor Chew's only been doing brief comparisons between the two.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They aren't in current production but you can still find NOS unit sitting on shelfs._

 

They are NOS and there were 2 pieces left and as they were different models I decided to take them both to try them out.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ If we knew there would very soon be none left. Aka, we do not know.
 Some just find them in local stores from time to time._

 

Started laughing the moment I read your post. Love the way you put it and couldn't agree more with you Krmathis.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so KRMATHIS, you are hoarding all those SRD-7's then? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I only have 2, Kramatis may have a lot more in his ware house.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's also HeadphoneAddict's indication that the SRD-7Mk2SB takes considerably longer to reach full bias charge of the ESPs - that could affect the sound if Victor Chew's only been doing brief comparisons between the two._

 

I gave the SRD7SBmk2 more than an hour to charge up. It did get louder after 10 minutes and you can noticeably hear it attenuating. To do the comparision I had the speaker wires from both the units plugged into the B22 at the same time so that I can do a quick switch between the 2 energizers. When I switched form the SRD7SBMk2, the SRD7mk2 was louder by about 1 level. The SRD7SB mk2 seems warmer and sweeter to me whilst the SRD7mk seems faster and more dynamic at similar volumes.

 Will find sometime to test them again.

 I thing I did realise was that the power wires from the SRD7mk2 was not marked which side was live and which was neutral. Switching them did change the sound. Does anyone know which is live? For the moment, I use the one printed with the words as live.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey, quick aside. what is a fair price for a Koss esp950 with no energizer? how bout with one? Assuming everything is in good shape.

 No, I'm not the one selling it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's also HeadphoneAddict's indication that the SRD-7Mk2SB takes considerably longer to reach full bias charge of the ESPs - that could affect the sound if Victor Chew's only been doing brief comparisons between the two._

 

Actually, my stock Stax SRD-7 Mk2 SB takes maybe only a couple of minutes longer than my SRD-7 Pro which charges them up instantly. It's my modded SRD-7 SB that takes several minutes to charge up pro bias phones - it was just normal bias, but now is pro and normal bias jacks and an HE Audio Jack.

 PS: my SRD-7 Pro plugs into the wall, the other two are SB.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, my stock Stax SRD-7 Mk2 SB takes maybe only a couple of minutes longer than my SRD-7 Pro which charges them up instantly. It's my modded SRD-7 SB that takes several minutes to charge up pro bias phones - it was just normal bias, but now is pro and normal bias jacks and an HE Audio Jack.

 PS: my SRD-7 Pro plugs into the wall, the other two are SB._

 

I stand corrected. Thanks, HeadphoneAddict.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only have 2, Kramatis may have a lot more in his ware house._

 

I only have one (1), the SRD-7 Pro, since I sold my SRD-7MK2 last year. Do not need more than one, but if I happen to run into one I will buy it. Especially is if is an SRD-7MK2 SB.


----------



## Oublie

I found the srd7 mkII sb to be a little smoother with lambdas than the pro mkII volume wise its probably down to the amp and the voltage multipliers used. It is possible that the sb's aren't feeding as high a bias as the pro srd7's and could also be related to the stepup transformers used in the different srd7 versions. Apparently there were a few changes to transformers even within the same models.

 i've built a replica bias supply for an srd7 pro and have just snagged a couple of c core matched high voltage transformers of ebay (4 kg each). 

 I've been trying to get a replacement for my srd7 mkII built for quite some time but good trafos are really expensive turns ratio in reverse will be 1:40 so should perform quite well.

 This is all because i can't find a 717 for my omegas. I've tried srm1 mk2 and the srmt1w with the omegas but neither can match the srd7 as they need a lot more 'drive' than the lambdas.

 Moving house atm but once i'm settled in ill finally try and get this built and reviewed.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Gonna buy soon the Stax SR-4070. Do you think it will be a waste to pair them with the SRM-006tII ? Music matters... but money as well


----------



## Oublie

why in particular the 4070's?


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_why in particular the 4070's?_

 

Now i got the Ultrasone PRO 2500, using them with the Headphone Out of a Marantz PM8003. Really enjoy them but due to my parents making some noise with the TV i'd like a Closed Back Headphone. The only stats closed back headphone are the SR-4070. I can afford SR-4070 + SRM-006tII, but going for a better driver unit will be really too much for me.


----------



## padam

The 4070s are said to be quite hard to drive so go for something more powerful if you can. Also worth mentioning that it has a 'studio' kind of sound that you might or might not like (for example with studio monitors, bad recordings will sound crap).


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

mmm... the bad things is that there is no way to listen them in italy. For something more which driver unit do you suggest ?


----------



## padam

SRM-717 is probably the best Stax amp after the unobtainable T2. The 727(ii) might be good as well (it is not the best for the O2 but it could be good with other phones like the 4070) and there is also the 007t(ii).


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

You are really killing my wallet man


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, my stock Stax SRD-7 Mk2 SB takes maybe only a couple of minutes longer than my SRD-7 Pro which charges them up instantly. It's my modded SRD-7 SB that takes several minutes to charge up pro bias phones - it was just normal bias, but now is pro and normal bias jacks and an HE Audio Jack.

 PS: my SRD-7 Pro plugs into the wall, the other two are SB._

 

One thing to note is the music used to power the SB units matters. The bias supply needs at least 100VAC to power up completely and if you are listening to some quiet chamber stuff then there simply isn't enough. The power is drawn from the audio transformer secondary and then fed through another transformer but that may simply not be enough. Another thing to think about are the amps used. Some puny switching amps simply don't have a lot of voltage swing compared to Class A behemoths. A Krell Class A amp has roughly 200V P-P of swing and can drive the phones directly...


----------



## insyte

What would be the best tube amp from the stax line to pair with an O2MkI?


----------



## dickbianchi

I bought the SR-Lamdas and SRD7-SB recently for sale. (I am in Mineeapolis, for the next two months, where it is impossible to move very far in any direction without running into a lake, leaving behind the all-hot, all-dusty and all-beige middle east for some cool, clean and green, not to mention the comparative ease of buying and selling.) I want to pair these with my older Audio Note OTO-se amp, which puts out 14 very nice watts in class A. 

 I like tubes behind the staxen and im hoping this will be enough to decently power the vintage LAMDA phones. I brought my other normal bias phones along, the 5nb golds, for comparison.

 I am a Lamda Pro fan, which I use happily back there with my oo7t, not really perceiving the mid-range suckout people talk about. I am anxious to hear other lambdas esp the lambda nova sigs. Ive come a long way from the 34 electrets, which still sound good. I really like electrostatics!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *insyte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be the best tube amp from the stax line to pair with an O2MkI?_

 

That would be the SRM-T2.
 For in-production units it would be the SRM-007tII (SRM-007tA).


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are really killing my wallet man 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A used T1 can be a good budget choice (similar to the 006t only better parts but basically the same) but it might struggle a bit with a 4070 (Spritzer wrote it in the past that it sounds fine if it is used on medium volume).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, quick aside. what is a fair price for a Koss esp950 with no energizer? how bout with one? Assuming everything is in good shape.

 No, I'm not the one selling it._

 

did I post this in the wrong place, or does no one really have an answer on this.


----------



## padam

Maybe 300$ and 400$ with the amp. But, you might have trouble sending it in if there is a warranty issue (squealing noises, etc.) so I wouldn't risk buying one without an amp if I were you.


----------



## green0153

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe 300$ and 400$ with the amp. But, you might have trouble sending it in if there is a warranty issue (squealing noises, etc.) so I wouldn't risk buying one without an amp if I were you._

 

Yeah, I have sent mine a week ago and the were asking for the whole package.


----------



## insyte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be the SRM-T2.
 For in-production units it would be the SRM-007tII (SRM-007tA)._

 

Thanks. A friend of mine wants to get a tube amp for an omega setup. I guess he most probably found a 007tII in Hong Kong, as T2 seems to be very rare and expensive


----------



## padam

Well-made aftermarket amps like the Woo Audio GES or the upcoming the WES might be very good as well, although I read that the GES struggles a little bit with power (but the 007t isn't the most powerful either).


----------



## Shike

Hey guys,

 I have some older Stax SR-5. Recently I had some problems with them. I contacted Accutech and they can't repair them (they won't repair drive elements).

 I've disassembled them and taken a peak. One driver has holes in the actual mylar film between the stators. Also, the same driver has the plastic on top ripped. It's not mylar, but rather crinkly clingy stuff. Any idea what that's for? Is it dampening, dust protection . . . ? It seems like it'd be safe to remove, but I rather not touch it till I'm sure of the function.

 Anyway, does anyone know someone that would be able to repair the drivers? If not, any good supply for the proper micron PET Film/Mylar? Shouldn't be too hard of a fix.

 Thanks!


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I find one, with a fair price tag, I will certainly snatch it. That is true! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

well, I beat you to one! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have an SRD-7 MKII coming my way!!!


----------



## Duckman

Thanks a lot, Edstrelow. Now I'm keen to compare some other offerings. Are any of the Lambda series particularly known to present rock music well?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did a comprison recently of the Lambda Signature, 404 and Nova Classic.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 I thought the Sig was slightly down in bass, and definitely down in midrange compared to the others but overall had a very pleasing sound and I thought was listenable on a wider range of material than the others, although it was not necessarily more accurate tonally.

 Many stats (but not Sigmas and 005's) have a treble edginess on recordings which may have too much recorded treble. Telarcs generally don't have a treble edge, but a lot of rock/pop is treblish. 

 Often cables can make a difference. I also recommend Silclear on all contacts and even a cheap noise remover such as PS Audio's noise harvester can make the treble smoother on all recordings._


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks a lot, Edstrelow. Now I'm keen to compare some other offerings. Are any of the Lambda series particularly known to present rock music well?_

 

I've been told the sr5nb gold rocks pretty hard, but I've not heard it.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been told the sr5nb gold rocks pretty hard, but I've not heard it._

 

You heard right, it does rock hard, but it's not a lambda. Nonetheless, worth a shot. It's kind of the "grado" of the Stax lineup, if I might make so crass a comparison.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You heard right, it does rock hard, but it's not a lambda. Nonetheless, worth a shot. It's kind of the "grado" of the Stax lineup, if I might make so crass a comparison._

 

The man I bought my 5nbgolds from also characterized it as the grado of the stax line. Maybe power of suggestion but when I listened, it did indeed have the "upfront" character of my RS1s. Now I have both phones in the same place and will be able to make some sort of evaluation of this notion.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You heard right, it does rock hard, but it's not a lambda. Nonetheless, worth a shot. It's kind of the "grado" of the Stax lineup, if I might make so crass a comparison._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The man I bought my 5nbgolds from also characterized it as the grado of the stax line. Maybe power of suggestion but when I listened, it did indeed have the "upfront" character of my RS1s. Now I have both phones in the same place and will be able to make some sort of evaluation of this notion._

 

I've compared my SR-5NB to my RS-1 on a few occasions here in this thread a few times before. It's amazing how good an SR-5NB on an inexpensive SRM-1 Mk2 Pro sounds vs a nice RS-1 rig.


----------



## Duckman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You heard right, it does rock hard, but it's not a lambda. Nonetheless, worth a shot. It's kind of the "grado" of the Stax lineup, if I might make so crass a comparison._

 

I'm guessing their a bit of a rarity also! What sort of price does the SR-5NB fetch these days?


----------



## gilency

Can somebody give a little more specific information (numbers) on what part of the frequency curve are the 404 sig's bumped up? for looking at the graph in page one the main bump seems to be between 1000 and 2000 Hz How accurate is this graph?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm guessing their a bit of a rarity also! What sort of price does the SR-5NB fetch these days?_

 

About $200 a year ago.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Can someone tell me the best Europe shop for STAX items? I am in italy and for a SR-4040 signature System II they ask me 2200 € (LOL ???). I better buy them online to save money. I know that best price are from Japan and USA (due to the $\€ ratio) but customs duty will be too much. Any advice ?


----------



## Victor Chew

Can anyone tell me if I should leave the SRD7mk2 on all the time or if I should turn it off when not in use?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me if I should leave the SRD7mk2 on all the time or if I should turn it off when not in use?_

 

leaving it on makes sense if you have your cans plugged in as it has been said that the diaphrams do need some time to charge but this will attract dust to them over time. Personally i turn mine off when not in use however, a few members have said that the sound improves with time due to the diaphrams being fully charged so it might be an idea to turn them on a little while before listening.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_leaving it on makes sense if you have your cans plugged in as it has been said that the diaphrams do need some time to charge but this will attract dust to them over time. Personally i turn mine off when not in use however, a few members have said that the sound improves with time due to the diaphrams being fully charged so it might be an idea to turn them on a little while before listening._

 

That "time for charging" thing is pure nonsense. The cans start sounding as soon as the unit is switched on and there's some music playing. Electricity travels at almost light speed and the mylar membrane gets "charged" as soon as the bias current gets to it, so when the music signal gets to the stators, the membrane starts moving.
 On adapters you not even need the time to warm up components as in energizers. It makes more sense leaving your amp on to shorten its warm up time, than leaving the adapter on.


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That "time for charging" thing is pure nonsense. The cans start sounding as soon as the unit is switched on and there's some music playing. Electricity travels at almost light speed and the mylar membrane gets "charged" as soon as the bias current gets to it, so when the music signal gets to the stators, the membrane starts moving.
 On adapters you not even need the time to warm up components as in energizers. It makes more sense leaving your amp on to shorten its warm up time, than leaving the adapter on._

 

tell that to those who claim otherwise.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_tell that to those who claim otherwise._

 

I think he just did.


----------



## malldian

I feel better about that charge up issue now. It had been bothering me for quite some time.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone tell me the best Europe shop for STAX items? I am in italy and for a SR-4040 signature System II they ask me 2200 € (LOL ???). I better buy them online to save money. I know that best price are from Japan and USA (due to the $\€ ratio) but customs duty will be too much. Any advice ?_

 

I have bought from this supplier:

STAX 4040 system

 Their price would be around 1400 €

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oublie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_tell that to those who claim otherwise._

 

Not really necessary, just start your source and amp, plug the Stax into the SRD7 and put them around your ears, then switch the SRD7 on. You'll notice that right away the music sounds without any strange noises, delays, or charge-up times. It's that easy checking it.


----------



## spritzer

The whole charge issue is pure nonsense and indeed often confused with the amps warming up to reach optimum running temperature.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That "time for charging" thing is pure nonsense. The cans start sounding as soon as the unit is switched on and there's some music playing. Electricity travels at almost light speed and the mylar membrane gets "charged" as soon as the bias current gets to it, so when the music signal gets to the stators, the membrane starts moving.
 On adapters you not even need the time to warm up components as in energizers. It makes more sense leaving your amp on to shorten its warm up time, than leaving the adapter on._

 

Your avatar makes me want to believe you.

 I guess there must be another reason why my 'stats sound differen't every time I listen to them...


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your avatar makes me want to believe you.

 I guess there must be another reason why my 'stats sound differen't every time I listen to them..._

 

Hahahaha don't let my avatar fool you ;D
 I hope your stats sound different just because you play different discs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Now seriously, there are many reasons making a system not sounding the same when just switched on than after a few minutes of warming up. Many electronic components won't reach their optimum operation range until they get a certain temperature, and that may influence their sound. Also electricity variations on the grid (voltage delivered, noise pollution, DC offset) can make differences that good stats would expose. However I'm quite sure the "charging" thing in the stats drivers isn't one of them.


----------



## dickbianchi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hahahaha don't let my avatar fool you._

 

But..but.. dont u play a doctor on TV?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But..but.. dont u play a doctor on TV?_

 

Sure he does !
 And my real name is Gene Hunt.

 cheers

 Gene (AKA Tom)


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he just did._

 

no i said i turn mine on a little while before listening at the same time i turn on my amp in fact.


----------



## Cool_Torpedo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But..but.. dont u play a doctor on TV?_

 

LOL nope, I "play" a Dr in some hospital


----------



## condor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cool_Torpedo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOL nope, I "play" a Dr in some hospital 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How do you like your SOTA Turntable?


----------



## cosmopragma

2 weeks ago RichterDi did ask me if I'd want to borrow his SR-4070 for a few weeks in order to get first hand experience while he enjoys his yearly summer vacation with his family overseas.
 Well, I thought by myself: Why not? It's free and doesn't hurt, but, frankly, I didn't expect much since the SR-4070 seemed to be some kind of closed SR-404s and I'm not exactly fond of modern Lambda varieties.
 I do have it for 10 days now (in direct comparison to my Omega II Mk1 and some random Lambdas (SR-303 and age old Lambda Professional).
 What I got is somewhat unexpected.
 The SR-4070 are in a different league than any Lambda I've ever owned.
 They do complement the Omegas quite well.
 Different strengths and weaknesses.


 Unfortunately the SR-4070s are quite uncomfortable.They are heavy as stone (in fact the heaviest headphones I've ever worn) and the heat build-up within a short period of time is substantial and unbearable, at least in the summertime.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

You've just make me buy this headphone. I'only have to wait like 5or6 months to save the money but tit will be mine


----------



## gilency

Just received my 16ft (SRE-750) Extension Cable. Very convenient for me since I now can listen to my 404's with or without external speakers/subwoofer to add extra bass I want to.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2 weeks ago RichterDi did ask me if I'd want to borrow his SR-4070 for a few weeks in order to get first hand experience while he enjoys his yearly summer vacation with his family overseas.
 Well, I thought by myself: Why not? It's free and doesn't hurt, but, frankly, I didn't expect much since the SR-4070 seemed to be some kind of closed SR-404s and I'm not exactly fond of modern Lambda varieties.
 I do have it for 10 days now (in direct comparison to my Omega II Mk1 and some random Lambdas (SR-303 and age old Lambda Professional).
 What I got is somewhat unexpected.
 The SR-4070 are in a different league than any Lambda I've ever owned.
 They do complement the Omegas quite well.
 Different strengths and weaknesses.


 Unfortunately the SR-4070s are quite uncomfortable.They are heavy as stone (in fact the heaviest headphones I've ever worn) and the heat build-up within a short period of time is substantial and unbearable, at least in the summertime.
 On top of that they do cost ~$3000 where I live so it's unlikely I will ever own them, but I would like to._

 

Cosmopragma, I do appreciate the 4070's sound signature, too. They have excellent extension at both ends of the spectrum, they are beautifully balanced and almost completely lack the Lambda's upper mids/lower highs peak. Mids are somewhat more forward than with the Omega 2s (I and II), but that is exactly what makes me prefer them for listening to female jazz singers. While it's amazing how open and free a closed (electrostatic) phone can sound, I perceive their soundstaging and imaging to be one of their relative weaknesses. They seem to be lacking somewhat regarding the third dimension, that is depth. The fit issues can be improved significantly by bending the arcs. However, there's definitely no cure for the weight. And as not only their acoustic but also their thermal isolation is great, I prefer listening to them in other seasons than summer.


----------



## gilency

I received my SRD-7 MKII today and I am very pleased with it. Nothing fancy, I connected it to my Yamaha amplifier and it sounds pretty good. Eventually I am not sure what to get, either a Stax, Woo or KGSS. or perhaps a non electrostatic amp to go with the SRD-7.


----------



## The Monkey

For you: Woo WES.


----------



## gilency

Interesting. Eventually I am sure I will get the Omegas, but not yet.
 The Woo WES looks very nice! I missed it at CanJam. Well, 5 more expensive years of putting my children trough college! Not small feat which diverts funds that otherwise could go to headphone amplifiers! Although I have the 404's, I am sure I won't stop there.


----------



## gilency

I am currently trying to secure a Model ED-1 Stax equalizer. Not sure if I can get it. Any opinion on its merits with 404's or even Omegas?


----------



## padam

It is designed for the Lambda Pro (not for the 404) and even with that it has its negative effects to a sound in exchange of the soundstage increase, I would skip it.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is designed for the Lambda Pro (not for the 404) and even with that it has its negative effects to a sound in exchange of the soundstage increase, I would skip it._

 

Thanks for your input.


----------



## malldian

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...dstage-108899/

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/st...ualizer-23306/


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cosmopragma, I do appreciate the 4070's sound signature, too. They have excellent extension at both ends of the spectrum, they are beautifully balanced and almost completely lack the Lambda's upper mids/lower highs peak. Mids are somewhat more forward than with the Omega 2s (I and II), but that is exactly what makes me prefer them for listening to female jazz singers. While it's amazing how open and free a closed (electrostatic) phone can sound, I perceive their soundstaging and imaging to be one of their relative weaknesses. They seem to be lacking somewhat regarding the third dimension, that is depth. The fit issues can be improved significantly by bending the arcs. However, there's definitely no cure for the weight. And as not only their acoustic but also their thermal isolation is great, I prefer listening to them in other seasons than summer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The x-factor for the 4070 now are the new thick leather earpads for the SR-404LE. The thicker material should isolate better and may bring out the bass a bit. I know Stax is dealing with some supply issues now but the pads will be available for sale later on.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Hey guys, anyone knows if the Stax 717 can be set to run at 240v instead of 220v (currently on jumper 3 & 5). My country's AC is 230v, is it true that by setting it at 240v on the 717, it'll run cooler than setting it at 220v?

 The 717 recently begin to start shutting down after 1-2 hours due to overheating. Tried cleaning the dust from it but the problem is still there. Could it be a loose connection somewhere or something?

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## spritzer

There is a 240v setting on the 717 (and every other Stax gear) and it will run cooler. You need to take off the back of the unit and rearrange the metal fuses which set the voltage. For 220v there should be a fuse in spot 3 and 5 but convert it to 240v you need to move the one in the nr.3 spot over to nr.2. The numbers are printed underneath the fuses. 

 All the necessary caveats apply so you may get shocked, the amp catch fire etc. but I've used this on many Stax amps and it works.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a 240v setting on the 717 (and every other Stax gear) and it will run cooler. You need to take off the back of the unit and rearrange the metal fuses which set the voltage. For 220v there should be a fuse in spot 3 and 5 but convert it to 240v you need to move the one in the nr.3 spot over to nr.2. The numbers are printed underneath the fuses. 

 All the necessary caveats apply so you may get shocked, the amp catch fire etc. but I've used this on many Stax amps and it works._

 

I did the settings as you suggested and did not previously have problems of shutting down even on long extended hours of listening even in our hot climate. Please be vey careful when you poke you hands into the amp even when it is off. The balance charge can be lethal - 240v!!!


----------



## spritzer

There are close to 400v sitting on those capacitors so do indeed be careful. 

 One bit of news for the Stax fans. I've almost finished drawing up a SRD-7 Pro bias supply PCB which should fit every SRD-7 unit and equip it for Pro bias. While this is for my own use I may sell off some of the excess boards if there is interest.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are close to 400v sitting on those capacitors so do indeed be careful. 

 One bit of news for the Stax fans. I've almost finished drawing up a SRD-7 Pro bias supply PCB which should fit every SRD-7 unit and equip it for Pro bias. While this is for my own use I may sell off some of the excess boards if there is interest._

 

Good Job! I'd always be up for one of those PCB when you decide if you have extras to sell. Cheers!


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a 240v setting on the 717 (and every other Stax gear) and it will run cooler. You need to take off the back of the unit and rearrange the metal fuses which set the voltage. For 220v there should be a fuse in spot 3 and 5 but convert it to 240v you need to move the one in the nr.3 spot over to nr.2. The numbers are printed underneath the fuses. 

 All the necessary caveats apply so you may get shocked, the amp catch fire etc. but I've used this on many Stax amps and it works._

 

Thanks spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes, there's a metal jumper (that looks like fuse) on Spot 3 (purple) and 5 now. So for 240v it should be Spot 2 (Green) and Spot 5 (brown)?

 Will try it out tomorrow morning, just unplugged the amp from the mains so that the caps can ease off a little before I attempt anything


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes, there's a metal jumper (that looks like fuse) on Spot 3 (purple) and 5 now. So for 240v it should be Spot 2 (Green) and Spot 5 (brown)?

 Will try it out tomorrow morning, just unplugged the amp from the mains so that the caps can ease off a little before I attempt anything_

 

240 is indeed 2 and 5.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One bit of news for the Stax fans. I've almost finished drawing up a SRD-7 Pro bias supply PCB which should fit every SRD-7 unit and equip it for Pro bias. While this is for my own use I may sell off some of the excess boards if there is interest._

 

Tempting, it seems difficult to find a SRD-7 Pro while there are lots of non-Pro on the used market. At least when I looked around a year ago.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The x-factor for the 4070 now are the new thick leather earpads for the SR-404LE. The thicker material should isolate better and may bring out the bass a bit. I know Stax is dealing with some supply issues now but the pads will be available for sale later on._

 

This bodes well with regard to my secret progressions on the AMT headphone. The pads (thanks entirely to you my firend I have facililty for comparisons that are meaningful) contribute vastly to the overal sound.

 If these -LE leather pads make it as a part for order. I'd certainly be in the queue.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This bodes well with regard to my secret progressions on the AMT headphone. The pads (thanks entirely to you my firend I have facililty for comparisons that are meaningful) contribute vastly to the overal sound.

 If these -LE leather pads make it as a part for order. I'd certainly be in the queue._

 

Pad-rolling! What a great approach. (I'm already a fan of tube rolling and opamp rolling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ).

 Please post your suggested pads for Sigmas, Lambdas and Gammas plus any general guidance your experimentation so far has ID'd (particularly interested in whether this approach might get better bass out of the Gammas whilst retaining their mid and upper range strengths 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pad-rolling! What a great approach. (I'm already a fan of tube rolling and opamp rolling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 Please post your suggested pads for Sigmas, Lambdas and Gammas plus any general guidance your experimentation so far has ID'd (particularly interested in whether this approach might get better bass out of the Gammas whilst retaining their mid and upper range strengths 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )._

 



 Never had a Sigma (sadly). Only had an SR-202 (LOVED IT) never owned a Gamma. Never did any pad-rolling on the 202. Sorry I can't help you out.

 The AMT is, putting it politely. A tricky and fussy person.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_240 is indeed 2 and 5._

 

Thanks big time again spritzer, you're the man!

 Managed to move the jumper with a w/o having to take out the PCB. Switched on power, no boom bang, no smoke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Unit now runs noticebly cooler at 240v (only the top plate near the grilles get hot), so far 2 hours straight w/o shutting off. Let's see if it can hit about 4 hours


----------



## gilency

I know for many is not Kosher to tweak sound with equalizer settings, but I did in iTunes, just increased the frequencies between 32 and 500 just a notch or less and to my ears the 404 sounds just perfect. I am listening to Mozart's Cosi Fan Tutti and the soundstage is amazing. I have listened to Bach and Shirley Horne for hours today with no fatigue, enjoying minute details I did not know were there. The 404's being my first Stax ever I am just amazed at how clear everything sounds. When the upgrade symptoms return, I think I will start with the amplifier first, selling the SRD-7 MKII and the SRM-006t in exchange for........ not sure yet....mmmhhh!
 One more thought: in the JH13 thread there is a lot of talk about how that particular IEM is so good there is not need to have any large headphones and many people state they are selling their large dynamic cans. I have the Westone ES3X and love it for its beautiful sound and convenience of listening to it when I am by the pool or I need mobility, but I would never dream of getting rid of my Stax for a dynamic phone or an IEM.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One bit of news for the Stax fans. I've almost finished drawing up a SRD-7 Pro bias supply PCB which should fit every SRD-7 unit and equip it for Pro bias. While this is for my own use I may sell off some of the excess boards if there is interest._

 

Birgir, Put me down for one. I was doing the same thing but never finished.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks big time again spritzer, you're the man!

 Managed to move the jumper with a w/o having to take out the PCB. Switched on power, no boom bang, no smoke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Unit now runs noticebly cooler at 240v (only the top plate near the grilles get hot), so far 2 hours straight w/o shutting off. Let's see if it can hit about 4 hours _

 

Glad to know that it works. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, Put me down for one. I was doing the same thing but never finished._

 

Sure thing, just have to make sure the damn thing works first. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Once I'm happy with the design then I'll order up a dozen or so boards and test them.


----------



## kintsaki

If it is not too much trouble I would like to be included also and I will of course contribute financially


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, Put me down for one. I was doing the same thing but never finished._


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good Job! I'd always be up for one of those PCB when you decide if you have extras to sell. Cheers!_

 

Spritzer, in case you missed this yesterday.


----------



## manaox2

Spritzer, I have an SRD7SB I would be interested in buying a PCB for.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer, I have an SRD7SB I would be interested in buying a PCB for._

 

I was under the impression that this mod did not apply to the sb version. if it does, I am also interested.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was under the impression that this mod did not apply to the sb version. if it does, I am also interested.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Agreed. I also thought it was only for Mains powered Energisers. If you're making PCBs to upgrade the SB version too then I would also be interested in that experiment.

 Also, could these PCBs be adapted to, say, create a Pro version of a mains powered energiser with even higher bias - eg 600 volt on one ESP outlet and 620 volt on the other?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was under the impression that this mod did not apply to the sb version. if it does, I am also interested.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oops! If so, my bad.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Anyone knows the rating of the slow blow fuse for the stax 717? It's the one located near the transformer. Brought the fuse out to bring it to the hardware store, but looks like I've dropped it in my friend's office... Duh

 there are also 2 more fuses near the capacitors, F1 and F2, would appreciate if anyone knows the rating . Thanks!


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have bought from this supplier:

STAX 4040 system

 Their price would be around 1400 €

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Try the Norway distributor.


----------



## spritzer

Lets not get ahead of our selfs, I'll let you know when the board has been tested and then I can sell what I have extra. If there is more demand then for those that I have on hand, then I'll order extra boards. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was under the impression that this mod did not apply to the sb version. if it does, I am also interested.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

If you have a drill then I don't see any reason why one can't add a power cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you have a SB unit with the 3rd transformer then it could work with the new board. The connections will all have to be done off board and such but I have to see the schematic to be sure. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lyricalmoments* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone knows the rating of the slow blow fuse for the stax 717? It's the one located near the transformer. Brought the fuse out to bring it to the hardware store, but looks like I've dropped it in my friend's office... Duh

 there are also 2 more fuses near the capacitors, F1 and F2, would appreciate if anyone knows the rating . Thanks!_

 

The slow-blow fuse is 1.5A and the other two on the HT lines are 0.1A.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try the Norway distributor._

 

The problem is that Norway is not a member of the EU which makes it a hassle
 with taxes and VAT.


 cheers

 Tom


----------



## lyricalmoments

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The slow-blow fuse is 1.5A and the other two on the HT lines are 0.1A._

 

Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Noticed that they used the Toyo fuses... went to the neighbourhood hardware shop and they only have 1A or 2A. Will make a trip down tomorrow to a specialised shop, hopefully they have the Japanese made ones (and no, not those gold-plated ones that cost like USD$40, that's just way off the chart).


----------



## gilency

the following post in EBay has the SR-007 MKII for $4110.00! Now, that is crazy!
SR-007MK2 STAX Headphones US Version Black from NJ - eBay (item 110414263900 end time Aug-14-09 13:41:39 PDT)


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the following post in EBay has the SR-007 MKII for $4110.00! Now, that is crazy!
SR-007MK2 STAX Headphones US Version Black from NJ - eBay (item 110414263900 end time Aug-14-09 13:41:39 PDT)_

 

Yes, some of their other items for sale also indicate a misunderstanding of market value


----------



## Lil' Knight

That seller is famous for selling brainless stuffs.


----------



## edstrelow

I sent him a question as to what amp comes with the phones.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sent him a question as to what amp comes with the phones._

 

He does not mention any in his post.


----------



## edstrelow

That was my point.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was my point._

 

I get it. Sorry, being a little slow tonight....


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I'm thinking of ordering some new pads for my sr-lambda normal bias cans. I was browsing at audiocubes2, which version is a match for mine? I'm actually more curious then anything to see what the cans sound like with fresh foam on the inside. mine is disintegrating obviously.


----------



## gilency

I have been listening to the 404's connected to a Yamaha amplifier via SRD-7 MKII. Beethovens 9th symphony, 4th movement actually sounds better then when using the SRM-006t. When the choir sings loud, there is occasional distortion via SRM-006 but not with the SRD-7 MKII. Another interesting aspect that may horrify purists is that if I use the 6 channel stereo mode in the Yamaha amplifier, the soundstage increases tremendously with no sound degradation. It is not good for all recordings but in some of them it makes a large and nice difference. I really like the 404's not withstanding the bumps in frequencies that bothers some users.


----------



## gilency

anybody speaks Japanese? this site is regarding the Illusion transformer.
illusion AMP-5511Mk2


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anybody speaks Japanese? this site is regarding the Illusion transformer.
illusion AMP-5511Mk2_

 

That looks like the amplifier, not stax transformer.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem is that Norway is not a member of the EU which makes it a hassle
 with taxes and VAT.


 cheers

 Tom_

 

yes, but even with taxes+VAT+shipping the price is still better than those of the EU distributors. Make some calculations. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Last year my friend has bought headphones+amp from Norway.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of ordering some new pads for my sr-lambda normal bias cans. I was browsing at audiocubes2, which version is a match for mine? I'm actually more curious then anything to see what the cans sound like with fresh foam on the inside. mine is disintegrating obviously._

 

The American importer charges $40 + shipping for Lambda pads. Any of the Lambda-type eapads should work on the Lambda. If you want to keep the look and feel of the original Lambda try the SR-202 Basic earpads. If you wanted to set your pair apart from others you could try a different color.

 From the SR-404 LIMITED manual, (please note that SR-Lambda in this text must refer to the current STAX line-up and not the old 6-pin SR-Lambda) :

 The SR-Lambda earspeaker is equipped with a 2.5-meter cable. At some time, you may wish to enjoy earspeaker listening from a greater distance than the cable allows. Therefore, we make two kinds of extension cords.
 - SRE-750 (5m special PC-OCC)
 - SRE-725 (2.5m special PC-OCC)
 (For 5-pin plug only)

 Also available are replacement Earpads for the SR-Lambda series earspeakers.
 1. For Signature series: Brown (EP-234BR)
 2. For Classic series: Gray (EP-234GR)
 3. For Basic series: Black (EP-234BL)
 4. For LIMITED: Black (EP-234LIMITED)

 The HPS-2 stand holds any of our Earspeaker models in good condition. It is high enough to avoid bending the cable, which might cause damage, and it keeps the headband flat.

 The CPC-1 protects earspeaker from outside dust.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The American importer charges $40 + shipping for Lambda pads. Any of the Lambda-type eapads should work on the Lambda. If you want to keep the look and feel of the original Lambda try the SR-202 Basic earpads. If you wanted to set your pair apart from others you could try a different color.

 From the SR-404 LIMITED manual, (please note that SR-Lambda in this text must refer to the current STAX line-up and not the old 6-pin SR-Lambda) :

 The SR-Lambda earspeaker is equipped with a 2.5-meter cable. At some time, you may wish to enjoy earspeaker listening from a greater distance than the cable allows. Therefore, we make two kinds of extension cords.
 - SRE-750 (5m special PC-OCC)
 - SRE-725 (2.5m special PC-OCC)
 (For 5-pin plug only)

 Also available are replacement Earpads for the SR-Lambda series earspeakers.
 1. For Signature series: Brown (EP-234BR)
 2. For Classic series: Gray (EP-234GR)
 3. For Basic series: Black (EP-234BL)
 4. For LIMITED: Black (EP-234LIMITED)

 The HPS-2 stand holds any of our Earspeaker models in good condition. It is high enough to avoid bending the cable, which might cause damage, and it keeps the headband flat.

 The CPC-1 protects earspeaker from outside dust._

 

Any more comments about the 404 Ltd?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Love child of HE60 and SR-Lambda. More emotional than HE60. More technical than SR-Lambda.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Love child of HE60 and SR-Lambda. More emotional than HE60. More technical than SR-Lambda._

 

Damn you...


----------



## leaf

Sorry wrong post. Mod pls delete. Thank you.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn you..._

 

Yeah seriously man, what the hell? I have a very small family to feed, I can't be havin' this!


----------



## progo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm gonna fight against it with real weaponry now. .) The K1000 versus SR202... there's no way the Stax could win, is there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Exactly a month ago I said the above ..... and .... today I tried the trusty Stax setup. I was absolutely, completely overwhelmed by the amount and quality of bass I was hearing. The attack of it, the snappiness and even the amount was satisfying. The K1000s sounded nice and bassy at first, but oddly the 202s take the cake easily. Sure, there's certain numbness in Stax' bass. Some might even go brave and say it's one-note type of bass but I just feel it lacks simple texture. Notes are okay with it. It's just that orchestrated bass drums and stuff sounds kicky with staxes. 

 Well, I'm listening to my K1000s now, so the bass alone won't pull me back to the game. Maybe later... I was considering selling the 2020 setup for amplification money for K1000 but now I changed my mind.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Exactly a month ago I said the above ..... and .... today I tried the trusty Stax setup. I was absolutely, completely overwhelmed by the amount and quality of bass I was hearing. The attack of it, the snappiness and even the amount was satisfying. The K1000s sounded nice and bassy at first, but oddly the 202s take the cake easily. Sure, there's certain numbness in Stax' bass. Some might even go brave and say it's one-note type of bass but I just feel it lacks simple texture. Notes are okay with it. It's just that orchestrated bass drums and stuff sounds kicky with staxes. 

 Well, I'm listening to my K1000s now, so the bass alone won't pull me back to the game. Maybe later... I was considering selling the 2020 setup for amplification money for K1000 but now I changed my mind._

 

I did find amplification makes a huge difference with my K1000 - If my ZDT didn't fix the sound I was planning to sell them, fortunately it did help them. Initially I traded a pair of O2 Mk1 for the K1000, after comparing Naamanf's K1000 on B22 to his O2 Mk1 on his KGBH. Mine arrived and sounded nothing as good as that, and I bought Naamanf's O2 Mk1 since I missed mine. Now my K1000 are on a high pedestal again with the ZDT amp.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did find amplification makes a huge difference with my K1000 - If my ZDT didn't fix the sound I was planning to sell them, fortunately it did help them. Initially I traded a pair of O2 Mk1 for the K1000, after comparing Naamanf's K1000 on B22 to his O2 Mk1 on his KGBH. Mine arrived and sounded nothing as good as that, and I bought Naamanf's O2 Mk1 since I missed mine. Now my K1000 are on a high pedestal again with the ZDT amp._

 

I listened to about 3-4 K1000 set-ups at Canjam and the best I heard was MIKEYMAD's, but I don't remember the amplification except that it looked exotic. I like the basic concept of a driver that can be swivelled and have wonderd why one cannot make a stat equivalent. (I think I know now, the K1000 has to have a considerable bass boost to work, probably a resonance peak which you can build into a dynamic driver but not a stat) 

 I suspect part of the appeal to many listeners is the same as with the Stax Sigma, the forward projection of sound because the drivers are ahead of the ears when their drivers are set at 90 degrees to the ear. 

 I think


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I listened to about 3-4 K1000 set-ups at Canjam and the best I heard was MIKEYMAD's, but I don't remember the amplification except that it looked exotic. I like the basic concept of a driver that can be swivelled and have wonderd why one cannot make a stat equivalent. (I think I know now, the K1000 has to have a considerable bass boost to work, probably a resonance peak which you can build into a dynamic driver but not a stat) 

 I suspect part of the appeal to many listeners is the same as with the Stax Sigma, the forward projection of sound because the drivers are ahead of the ears when their drivers are set at 90 degrees to the ear. 

 I think_

 

Yes, soundstage is similar because the K1000 and Sigma also both offer a bit of extra crosstalk between the ears as well. But I found the K1000 to be much more detailed than the Sigma Pro, and not rolled off at all like the Sigma Pro that I borrowed from Plaidplatypus. And the Sigma Pro were also quite picky about amplification, sounding a little better with my Nuforce Icon 12-watt amp/SRD-7 pro combo than with the GES. The O2 Mk1 and Mk2 sound much better off the GES than the Sigma Pro did, and I even prefered my SR-Lambda to the Sigma Pro. I will get to hear a Sigma/404 this weekend, so I am looking forward to that one.


----------



## Sherwood

Ooh, Sigma/404 at the meet? Excellent.

 I share Larry's feelings on the Sigma, and I heard it through his gear. It sounded very dull to me. Part of the virtue on the K1000 is that, since the drivers are near free-floating, there are far fewer reflective surfaces than the Sigma.


----------



## padam

The thing I like about the Sigma that being less detailed can be an advantage as well, for a lot of music that are not recorded very well. Also, it is almost never fatiguing unlike the Lambda Sig I just got which can bite 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I wouldn't describe them as boring.

 I also got an SRD-7 MK2 adapter, although I have no speaker amp to try it with. Maybe with my friend's Jadis Orchestra tube amp


----------



## kintsaki

with regards to the above posts on K1000, Stax and Sigma what I have to say is that the amp is of paramount importance.

 In the last few days I had to revise life long beliefs on the importance of the amp in a system.

 I used to think that it is impossible to make "canned" (recorded) music even in SACD format sound like live music in any system and I was sorry for the people that would spent more than 4k$ on an amp. I was also wondering why serious Headfiers like Kevin and Birgir would go into such pains to design amps that would realize the full potential of the O2. The reason why I had this wrong belief was that in the tavern next to my tiny water front house a live band (2 male and one female voice a guitar a bouzouki and a synthesizer) all amplified through a 300$ consumer system (4 Warfdale bookshelf speakers driven of a 30 year old Kempwood receiver) would produce dynamics and harmonics that would make me shiver and then trigger a depression attack when I would go home and try to listen to my phones including the 717/O2 combo. The musicians were amateurs with fair talents at best yet they would make the 717/O2 combo and all my other phones pale in comparison (at best, or really sound dry lifeless and totally not involving) and make me want to sell all my gear immediately.

 Last week Yanni gave me as a gift an amp he had made off of left over spare parts. I was immediately shocked. I had him make connectors/adapters and drove all my phones directly off of the speaker terminals of this amp and changed my mind about all my phones.

 The amp was a tube 3 watt SE. I then asked him to let me try some of his other designs including a 15 Watt SE and an espesially made 80 Watt Push Pull that sounds like an SE but comes with the power of a Push Pull.

 The 15 Watt SE took all of my phones into one additional level higher than the 3 Watt and the 80 Watt took the K1000 one additional step higher while it did improve the performance of the rest of my phones but not to the same degree.

 I now understand Kevin and Birgir, and Larry reporting on headphone's performances through exotic amps and I don't feel sorry for fellow Headfiers with 4k$ and up amps and I also know why people thing that some K1000's do not sound as good especially on bass.

 However music is mostly midrange and it takes good amps to bring out the dynamics and harmonics of midrange.

 I will reserve judgment on Staxen and the O2 until the time I listen to them through amps like the ones Kevin and Birgir are designing and building.

 Sherwood what are you driving your beloved K1000's with?


----------



## DefectiveAudioComponent

There are some noises that maybe perhaps shouldn't be there with my Toshiba X1 electret. There could be dust / dirt on the drivers, I'm thinking. Is there any good way of getting it out without damaging anything? (if that's the problem)


----------



## Victor Chew

I have been driving my O2mk1 with a border patrol SE300B through my SRD7 mk2. The amp is an 8 or 9 watt which couples to a huge external power supply. I also have the balanced B22 and previously the 717 and the T1s. I totally agree that the amp makes a big difference. The only problem now is that I am getting a bit of hum and I am trying to sort it out. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I have tried unearthing the power cords but the hum is still there - mixture of hum and tube buzz.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been driving my O2mk1 with a border patrol SE300B through my SRD7 mk2. The amp is an 8 or 9 watt which couples to a huge external power supply. I also have the balanced B22 and previously the 717 and the T1s. I totally agree that the amp makes a big difference. The only problem now is that I am getting a bit of hum and I am trying to sort it out. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I have tried unearthing the power cords but the hum is still there - mixture of hum and tube buzz._

 

of all the amps you have mentioned, which one did you prefer with the SRD-7 mk2?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, soundstage is similar because the K1000 and Sigma also both offer a bit of extra crosstalk between the ears as well. But I found the K1000 to be much more detailed than the Sigma Pro, and not rolled off at all like the Sigma Pro that I borrowed from Plaidplatypus. And the Sigma Pro were also quite picky about amplification, sounding a little better with my Nuforce Icon 12-watt amp/SRD-7 pro combo than with the GES. The O2 Mk1 and Mk2 sound much better off the GES than the Sigma Pro did, and I even prefered my SR-Lambda to the Sigma Pro. I will get to hear a Sigma/404 this weekend, so I am looking forward to that one._

 

I wouldn't have described my Sigma pro or Sigma/404 which I had at Canjam as lacking in detail compared to the K1000. As I noted above, the best of the K1000 set-ups was at the next table to my Sigma set-up so it was easy to make comparisons. As with the K1000 I am sure that amps make a difference. I had a 717 amp and MIKEYMAD had a Singlepower set up for his 007 which I sometimes used with the Sigmas. With his amp, the difference between the 007 and Sigmas in regard to detail became less pronounced. The 007 being a super detail phone. 

 The main things I felt about the Sigma pro/ K1000 comparison was the loss of ambience in the K1000 with possibly too much in the Sigma pro. That and the residual raspiness that even the best dynamics such as the HD800 show. Still I thought the K1000 were fun phones.

 I will be interested to see what your group thinks about the Sigma/404.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DefectiveAudioComponent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are some noises that maybe perhaps shouldn't be there with my Toshiba X1 electret. There could be dust / dirt on the drivers, I'm thinking. Is there any good way of getting it out without damaging anything? (if that's the problem)_

 

I have no idea how these drivers were made so I need pics to know what we are dealing with. Most electret drivers were never meant to be serviced though...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been driving my O2mk1 with a border patrol SE300B through my SRD7 mk2. The amp is an 8 or 9 watt which couples to a huge external power supply. I also have the balanced B22 and previously the 717 and the T1s. I totally agree that the amp makes a big difference. The only problem now is that I am getting a bit of hum and I am trying to sort it out. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I have tried unearthing the power cords but the hum is still there - mixture of hum and tube buzz._

 

First off, try to run the amp without an input and if that doesn't work, power everything up and then unplug the energizer from wall power socket and see if it makes a difference. Hum in a tube amp is often the sign of parts slowly dieing so bear that in mind...


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_of all the amps you have mentioned, which one did you prefer with the SRD-7 mk2?_

 

I prefer the Border Patrol.


----------



## DefectiveAudioComponent

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have no idea how these drivers were made so I need pics to know what we are dealing with. Most electret drivers were never meant to be serviced though..._

 

I think you are right. If I try to remove the driver, I believe I will end up with a pile of small driver plates. I can't see any other clamps or devices to keep the pile together except for the clamps that are attached to the baffle.






 Japanese description of the driver construction.





 I managed to gently brush out a piece of crumbled pleather out now. I hope that was it.


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First off, try to run the amp without an input and if that doesn't work, power everything up and then unplug the energizer from wall power socket and see if it makes a difference. Hum in a tube amp is often the sign of parts slowly dieing so bear that in mind..._

 

The amp powered up alone without the CD player plugged in has no hum at all through pro or normal bias. When everything is powered up and connected, there is a slight hum with some tube buzz through pro bias but perfect through the normal bias. 

 I was thinking that the CD player is the cause of the hum but with it connected to the B22, no hum at all whether through normal or pro bias. I am guessing that there may be a ground loop somewhere, but can't find to break it. I tried grounding the SRD7pro but still no good. Damn, this thing is really causing me a back ache bending up and down.


----------



## Tachikoma

My SRD-7 had a huge hum when I plugged it in backwards (ie live and neutral were reversed). Have you checked that?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SRD-7 had a huge hum when I plugged it in backwards (ie live and neutral were reversed). Have you checked that?_

 

Yes, but unfortunately no difference in the hum department 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Just for my knowledge, which is live and which is neutral. I have not managed to figure this out yet but I just treat the wire with the words as the live - not knowing if that is correct or wrong.


----------



## padam

Just tried the SRD-7 MK2 and an Audiolab amp (don't know exactly which amp, it was 100W per channel I think) driving the Sigma and the results were great. The SR-007 MK1 wasn't bad at all either although it wasn't as good as the Stax amp (but it had more slam). The Sigma really improved, though. Gained better bass control.
 No noise issues either, which really surprised me.


----------



## gilency

My SRD-7 mk2 has no hum connected to my Yamaha amplifier. It is connected directly to the wall.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been driving my O2mk1 with a border patrol SE300B through my SRD7 mk2. The amp is an 8 or 9 watt which couples to a huge external power supply. I also have the balanced B22 and previously the 717 and the T1s. I totally agree that the amp makes a big difference. The only problem now is that I am getting a bit of hum and I am trying to sort it out. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I have tried unearthing the power cords but the hum is still there - mixture of hum and tube buzz._

 

I had a slight hum problem with my SRD-7 Pro, no buzz though. It was actually a weird problem. I put my speaker amp in a short TV stand, and usually I have a laptop on top of the stand instead of a TV. When I would take my laptop off while I had my Stax on, I would get a hum. If I put the laptop back on the stand, then the hum would go away. I'm not sure what the problem was... the laptop wasn't even on, lol. Anyway the speaker amp I used was really cheap, so it's possible that there was some sort of power supply interference going on. 

 I think the problem would have been solved if I moved the speaker amp or transformer somewhere else.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't have described my Sigma pro or Sigma/404 which I had at Canjam as lacking in detail compared to the K1000. As I noted above, the best of the K1000 set-ups was at the next table to my Sigma set-up so it was easy to make comparisons. As with the K1000 I am sure that amps make a difference. I had a 717 amp and MIKEYMAD had a Singlepower set up for his 007 which I sometimes used with the Sigmas. With his amp, the difference between the 007 and Sigmas in regard to detail became less pronounced. The 007 being a super detail phone. 

 The main things I felt about the Sigma pro/ K1000 comparison was the loss of ambience in the K1000 with possibly too much in the Sigma pro. That and the residual raspiness that even the best dynamics such as the HD800 show. Still I thought the K1000 were fun phones.

 I will be interested to see what your group thinks about the Sigma/404._

 

The Sigma Pro that I tried were noticeably lacking detail - some parts of the music that I knew were there could not be heard.


----------



## Victor Chew

Thank You guys for all the help.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma Pro that I tried were noticeably lacking detail - some parts of the music that I knew were there could not be heard._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank You guys for all the help._

 

The Sigma/404 I heard at the meet this weekend were noticeably better than the Sigma Pro - there was better detail and dynamics, and I would be more willing to own a Sigma/404 than a Sigma Pro which I have no interest in.


----------



## spritzer

The Sigma Pro is a bit bland IMO and the Sigma/404 is a clear step up. The normal bias model out of a Blue Hawaii is hard to beat though.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma/404 I heard at the meet this weekend were noticeably better than the Sigma Pro - there was better detail and dynamics, and I would be more willing to own a Sigma/404 than a Sigma Pro which I have no interest in._

 

They definitely have more treble and a tad more bass. Someone comparing my Sigma pro vs Sigma/404 at Canjam noted that the S/404 was more refined. I hear it as more detailed and accurate tonally. 

 The Sigmas are helped by more volatge swing than many recent Stax amps have. The SRM1Mk2 which has I believe 370 volts is better than the 300 volt amps with my Sigma Pro. As for low bias Sigmas , the old SRA 12S has more voltage swing than my high bias SRM3. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma Pro is a bit bland IMO and the Sigma/404 is a clear step up. The normal bias model out of a Blue Hawaii is hard to beat though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As everyone's school math teachers says " you can't compare apples and oranges." A better amp will make a poorer set of phones sound better. 

 When I listened to the Sigma/404 vs 007 (Mk 1 or 2) on the BHSE, I felt that the S/404 sounded a lot closer to the 007 than with my 717. The 007s still had some, although less, advantage in detail and bass. The S/404 had its unique spatial perspective/soundstage.


----------



## Victor Chew

In my experience, the amp can contribute huge sound changes and have always advocated that as high a quality an amp should be used. I have been going around, listening to diferent amps, with my O2mk1 and my SRD7mk2 for listen experience an has been quite enlightening but careful not to make judgments on quick listens. Apart from the subjective sound type and presentation, it is able, amongst other things like speed and so on, to give the control to the music in its own way. However, I also find that matching can also be tricky, as different headphones/speaker phones require different amps (ie. design type) to make it sound as best as it can. .

 By the way, I managed to solve the stupid, back breaking hum problem
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. It turned out that the power supply from my border patrol was picking up the unwanted frequencies from my CD player. I will test my system with the illusion ecs 1001 when it arrives against the SRD7mk2.


----------



## gilency

Victor, may I ask where you got the illusion ecs 1001 and for how much? Thanks!

 Ed. Is the Sigma/404 a hybrid you made of 2 phones?


----------



## Victor Chew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Victor, may I ask where you got the illusion ecs 1001 and for how much? Thanks!

 Ed. Is the Sigma/404 a hybrid you made of 2 phones?_

 

I got it from Japan. Taken me more than a year to track one down.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Victor, may I ask where you got the illusion ecs 1001 and for how much? Thanks!

 Ed. Is the Sigma/404 a hybrid you made of 2 phones?_

 

I had a low bias Sigma, which needed repairs. I sent it to Yamasinc., who put in a 404 cable and drivers. They charged about $500.00. I got my good parts back though.


----------



## John Buchanan

Same here - Yamasinc (or more correctly Accutech) did the implant.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As everyone's school math teachers says " you can't compare apples and oranges." A better amp will make a poorer set of phones sound better._

 

All 3 were powered by the same BH (though not at the same time). The Sigma Pro is still bland to my ears which just goes to show that not all drivers work in that chassis, no matter how good they are.


----------



## sachu

okay.

 Stax newbie here. 
 I have a pair of lambda Pros which I thought were woefully inadequate in the low frequencies and the mids. It sounded super accentuated in the highs and with a lot of sibilance.

 I noticed that the headphone was damped with glass wool, so I removed it as it was kind of disintegrating anyway and replaced it with a layer of craft felt from my ortho modding supplies.

 Predictably there was a marked improvement in the bass with the now lighter damped configuration. Mids were more forward and lush as well.
 It even has some of the impact in the bottom end that the orthos have. 

 All I did was lay a sheet of felt on the back of the cups, next step is to remove that layer of felt and put the felt right up against the driver and play around with different levels of damping until the headphone gets sold.

 But I can honestly say the improvement was quite big, noticeably in the bottom end.

 Anyone else tried any such damping mods on their staxes?


----------



## insyte

double post


----------



## insyte

Quick stax question

 Using an adaptor like the srd7 connected to a power amp like this one, what would its Output Voltage (RMS) be? is there a way to compute or measure it?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sachu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_okay.

 Stax newbie here. 
 I have a pair of lambda Pros which I thought were woefully inadequate in the low frequencies and the mids. It sounded super accentuated in the highs and with a lot of sibilance.

 I noticed that the headphone was damped with glass wool, so I removed it as it was kind of disintegrating anyway and replaced it with a layer of craft felt from my ortho modding supplies.

 Predictably there was a marked improvement in the bass with the now lighter damped configuration. Mids were more forward and lush as well.
 It even has some of the impact in the bottom end that the orthos have. 

 All I did was lay a sheet of felt on the back of the cups, next step is to remove that layer of felt and put the felt right up against the driver and play around with different levels of damping until the headphone gets sold.

 But I can honestly say the improvement was quite big, noticeably in the bottom end.

 Anyone else tried any such damping mods on their staxes?_

 


 Spritzer has reporetd on various types of damping .

 The Lambda Pro is the second Lambda of about a dozen that Stax has made, and is still making. My impression is that Stax stopped using most damping. Possibly you should try none.


----------



## spritzer

I tried a number of different damping methods to tame the horrendous midrange peak in the SR-303/404 but I've never messed with the L-Pro's. With the new phones I settled on two layers of fiber paper on the ear side with a single layer of blue craft felt on the back which I just placed inside the cup to allow the drivers to breath a bit.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

With the SR-404 Limited Ed Anniversary headphones that plaidplatypus brought to last weekend's meet, I didn't hear much of a midrange peak or etch at all. They were very enjoyable sounding, and more comfortable due to the leather ear pads. I would like to get a pair.


----------



## gilency

I guess I am one of them who does not seem to mind the midrange bump some people complaint about. My feeling is that if the 404's continue to sell they must be popular and enjoyable by a silent majority. I certainly like them a lot. The emphasis here seems to be a well deserved appreciation for the Omegas and some of the vintage gear, plus a dislike for the newer Staxes, as well as a lack of appreciation for the more affordable earspeakers. That is a shame IMO because it may turn people away from electrostatics, thinking that you need a several thousand dollar set up or very old equipment. In fact, even the "cheaper Staxes" are IMO much better than anything else I have heard including the 701's and 650's amongst others. I really liked the sound of the SR-007 more than the HD-800's. I am quite happy with my set up, although I am sure eventually I will buy the SR-007's.


----------



## n3rdling

The SR5 is one rocking little headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I think everybody that has heard mine has come away pretty impressed at the price/performance ratio of the little guy.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I am one of them who does not seem to mind the midrange bump some people complaint about. My feeling is that if the 404's continue to sell they must be popular and enjoyable by a silent majority. I certainly like them a lot. The emphasis here seems to be a well deserved appreciation for the Omegas and some of the vintage gear, plus a dislike for the newer Staxes, as well as a lack of appreciation for the more affordable earspeakers. That is a shame IMO because it may turn people away from electrostatics, thinking that you need a several thousand dollar set up or very old equipment. In fact, even the "cheaper Staxes" are IMO much better than anything else I have heard including the 701's and 650's amongst others. I really liked the sound of the SR-007 more than the HD-800's. I am quite happy with my set up, although I am sure eventually I will buy the SR-007's._

 

I agree with just about everything you said. The 404 midrange bump was not enough to lessen its appeal in my recent review of my current 3 Lambdas. It is the bargain among stat phones. Excellent for classical orchestral in particular.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 The 007 is better but at 5 times the price it should be. And really it's not 5 times better, maybe 20% better IMO. And then it really needs a top amp which the 404 does not.

 I find some of the praise of old Stax gear to be offbase when the prices reach or exceed the new Lambdas.


----------



## spritzer

I just wanted to clear one thing up since people are always asking me about this and manufacturers are using this to falsely market their products. When we talk about voltage swing in amps then that has nothing to with final volume level of said amp. Even though we've broken the 2000v P-P (1400V RMS) barrier with the latest amps then that isn't in the quest for more volume but rather more headroom. You can have an amp like my Supercharged Egmont which swings a lot of voltage but has relatively low gain and thus lower amplification factor. To reach full output swing you need higher input voltage to make up the difference. This means I can run it at full output without is breaking a sweat. Try that with the Stax amps which have high gain but relatively low voltage swing. They are also severely limited by the power handling ability of their tubes. Not only can the 6CG7 only take 300v but both plates can only handle 5W together. The 6S4A I used in my Egmont (and the upcoming mini ES-1 amp) can handle 500v easily and take 7.5W on the plate per phase or 15W if it were used in the same configuration as the SRM-T1. Now running the tubes at their max level is stupid and should never be done but the 6S4A has not only more voltage but more power as well. 

 Which brings me to my next point, more power has nothing to do with volume. While the larger amps swing more voltage then they also have more current at their disposal. While electrostatics are voltage based creatures they do need a lot of current from the amp due to the wild load they present. The Koss E.90 amp can swing a lot of voltage but it is useless without the current needed to back it up. As the impedance fluctuates then Ohm's-law demands current as well as voltage so that the voltage doesn't sag. When listing the power output of speaker amps you see the truly powerful ones double their output power as the impedance is halved. 

 Since the topic of calculating the voltage swing of the transformer boxes was brought up earlier, then that is certainly possible. They run at a fixed ratio (roughly 1:25-1:30) which means that a 1v input gives you 25-30v worth of output. Some speaker amps like the old Krell monsters can swing a lot of voltage (up to 200v P-P) but most amps swing a lot less then that. Still here we are facing the age old problem of power. The transformers in the boxes can only transformer so much power due to their size and construction so power hungry phones are left wanting (SR-007 for instance), never mind what monster you feed the transformers with. Larger transformers will work better here or using lower ratios (i.e. what Frank Cooter is doing) but they aren't cheap. 

 So the bottom line is, power is everything but it has nothing to do with volume. Rant over but one can only answer the same question so many times via PM...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Thanks spritzer. I know the problem for me, probably for most, is understanding the basic differance between voltage and current. I spoke with an electrician friend of mine about it, and I gave up after a short time because even he was getting irritated and confused while explaining it. I went so far as picking up an electronics for dummies book, got stuck on the same concept. Looks like it wwont be understood to me without taking a class.


----------



## spritzer

It does have some analogy to water so that is often used to explain. It's far from perfect and leaves out a lot of stuff but it will do. The voltage is the water pressure and current the amount of water. If you are going to shift say 1000 liters of water though a pipe then you can use a large pipe with low pressure (low voltage, high current) or a small pipe with high pressure ( high voltage,low current). 

 The size of the pipe also holds true to electricity since you can only move so much current through a wire of a certain thickness or it will just melt from the heat generated by the "friction" of the built in resistance. This is why we use very high voltage on larger power lines so that large amounts of electricity can be shifted through smaller wires (i.e. cheaper wires). 

 With increased voltage, you need insulation just as you need a stronger pipe with more pressure. Same goes for capacitors, resistors, relays etc., they all have voltage ratings. Since the insulation doesn't "stop" the electrons, only impedes them, then when you push past those engineered in ratings, you can have arcs (i.e. the electricity jumps to another point). 

 This is what happens in electrostatic transducers when the voltages get too high and the insulation of the atmosphere (roughly 100v/1mil) isn't enough to contain it. Since the insulation changes with the level of moisture in the air, it is easy to see how higher humidity makes the panels more likely to arc. 

 Also if you think of voltage as pressure or potential then you can see what effect driving a Pro bias headphone off a Normal bias socket will have. It will work since some of the potential to move the diaphragm is there but the stators don't the the wise like grip they would have if the bias was up to spec. 

 Hope this clears up a few things...


----------



## gilency

wow! this is the best way of explaining it I have ever heard. That was very helpful. Thank you.


----------



## The Monkey

moar please.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with just about everything you said. The 404 midrange bump was not enough to lessen its appeal in my recent review of my current 3 Lambdas. It is the bargain among stat phones. Excellent for classical orchestral in particular.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 The 007 is better but at 5 times the price it should be. And really it's not 5 times better, maybe 20% better IMO. And then it really needs a top amp which the 404 does not.

 I find some of the praise of old Stax gear to be offbase when the prices reach or exceed the new Lambdas._

 

Thank you Ed. Actually you are one of the head-fiers that picked my curiosity on electrostatics. There were a couple of other guys in the same room with all that mouth watering Stax equipment at CanJam that also let me listen to their gear for my first ever jaw dropping listening experience.


----------



## insyte

Ah thanks for the explanation spritzer


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_moar please._

 

What would you like to know my primate friend?


----------



## jgazal

Suppose that during the recording, the orchestra goes from 50dB to 70dB. How dac and amplifier know that is going from 50dB to 70dB? 

 I know you are going to say something like dealing with dynamic range in the digital media (CD, max. 96dB?; SACD, 120dB?; vynil?) and voltage/current transformations in the dac and amplifier, but what I would like to know is how the amplifier senses the correct amplitude if the volume knob is fixed (read user not controlling the volume). Just reading the dynamic range recorded in the media? 

 I know that we are able to match the base level the DAC starts with the volume knob when hitting play, but that not explain the amplitude in headroom.

 If an amplifier have _low headroom_, that real orchestra 50dB to 70dB will be at headphones, I don’t know, perhaps 50dB to 55dB. If you have _high headroom_, are we going to have 50dB to 90dB in our headphones? Is more headroom going to be more faithful to reality?

 Once I visited an audiophile and he had a huge amplifier. Every time I gave him a CD he asked me if it had some volume variation. I thought they hadn’t. Then he was always slowing down the volume at peaks, because we were going deaf. They were audiophile recordings. Therefore, they might have not compression at all during the mastering (but that's just speculation).

 Will the additional stages used to increase current and voltage swing worsen resolution? I mean, if each stage modulates a higher voltage/current path, it might have some loss in signal resolution. I presume you cannot copy the signal exactly as it is in the previous stage.

 If headroom really means that, I think I prefer to avoid that and work with less stages and better resolution, even if that involves more linear/plain headroom (as unfaithful as huge overloaded headroom with worse resolution?).

 I would like to hear more opinions about that.

 p.s.: I would only desire more power until that improves frequency response and tighter bass...


----------



## shomie911

The majority of todays music doesn't have that much inherent change in volume because engineers aren't catering to the audiophile crowd, but instead the everday iPod listeners that just want loudness, thus maintaining a fairly stable volume level throughout the recording (and thus sounding "flat").

 But audiophile recordings do have large variations in volume, so you do have a point there.

 I'd like to see what others have to say about that, you brang up a very good point.


----------



## powertoold

I'm enjoying my Stax SR-X Mk3 - very good value... Love the mids! If only it had the bass of my LNS. My LNS's mids aren't as good (somewhat recessed and therefore not as detailed), but it's amazing as well...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to clear one thing up since people are always asking me about this and manufacturers are using this to falsely market their products. When we talk about voltage swing in amps then that has nothing to with final volume level of said amp. Even though we've broken the 2000v P-P (1400V RMS) barrier with the latest amps then that isn't in the quest for more volume but rather more headroom. You can have an amp like my Supercharged Egmont which swings a lot of voltage but has relatively low gain and thus lower amplification factor. To reach full output swing you need higher input voltage to make up the difference. This means I can run it at full output without is breaking a sweat. Try that with the Stax amps which have high gain but relatively low voltage swing. They are also severely limited by the power handling ability of their tubes. Not only can the 6CG7 only take 300v but both plates can only handle 5W together. The 6S4A I used in my Egmont (and the upcoming mini ES-1 amp) can handle 500v easily and take 7.5W on the plate per phase or 15W if it were used in the same configuration as the SRM-T1. Now running the tubes at their max level is stupid and should never be done but the 6S4A has not only more voltage but more power as well. 

 Which brings me to my next point, more power has nothing to do with volume. While the larger amps swing more voltage then they also have more current at their disposal. While electrostatics are voltage based creatures they do need a lot of current from the amp due to the wild load they present. The Koss E.90 amp can swing a lot of voltage but it is useless without the current needed to back it up. As the impedance fluctuates then Ohm's-law demands current as well as voltage so that the voltage doesn't sag. When listing the power output of speaker amps you see the truly powerful ones double their output power as the impedance is halved. 

 Since the topic of calculating the voltage swing of the transformer boxes was brought up earlier, then that is certainly possible. They run at a fixed ratio (roughly 1:25-1:30) which means that a 1v input gives you 25-30v worth of output. Some speaker amps like the old Krell monsters can swing a lot of voltage (up to 200v P-P) but most amps swing a lot less then that. Still here we are facing the age old problem of power. The transformers in the boxes can only transformer so much power due to their size and construction so power hungry phones are left wanting (SR-007 for instance), never mind what monster you feed the transformers with. Larger transformers will work better here or using lower ratios (i.e. what Frank Cooter is doing) but they aren't cheap. 

 So the bottom line is, power is everything but it has nothing to do with volume. Rant over but one can only answer the same question so many times via PM... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The self-biasing phones provide an interesting variation on this theme. As the volume goes up so does the bias and the volume of the phones goes up some more. At least that is true with my Koss ESP and ESP9. So you get a sort of dynamic range expansion, like the old dBx system, built in.

 BTW I still like my ESP6 and 9. They are not the fastest stats out there but they can be quite listenable when I need isolation like when I am sitting next to an air conditioner on a 100 degee plus day. 

 The 6 has a better midrange and ambience than the 9. The 9 sounds a little distant with its recessed middle and upper midrange and it has even less air than the 6. On the other hand it handles bass well and has a somewhat more refined sound.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jgazal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Suppose that during the recording, the orchestra goes from 50dB to 70dB. How dac and amplifier know that is going from 50dB to 70dB? 

 I know you are going to say something like dealing with dynamic range in the digital media (CD, max. 96dB?; SACD, 120dB?; vynil?) and voltage/current transformations in the dac and amplifier, but what I would like to know is how the amplifier senses the correct amplitude if the volume knob is fixed (read user not controlling the volume). Just reading the dynamic range recorded in the media? 

 ..._

 

I used to know the answer to this. What I recall is that you may be confusing absolute decibels, i.e. a ratio based on a specified energy at 0dB (or is it 1?) with relative dB. At any rate dB is a ratio measurement and in your example, the amp sees a 20 dB ratio coming in at the input which it tries to match in output. But it doesn't mean it will produce the 70 dB of volume of the fixed dB scales.


----------



## spritzer

I must say I don't really understand those questions. What the dac outputs is just voltage (the standard spec is 2VAC RMS for line level, double that for balanced operation) which the amp then amplifies with fixed gain, lets say 500-1000 for an electrostatic amp. The output from the DAC isn't fixed though, rather the voltage fluctuates with the given amplitude encoded in the digital data, same can be said about vinyl where a pickup generates more voltage, the more distance it moves. All the volume control does is reduce that input voltage so the amp isn't running at full volume all the time. As the input voltage increases then that change is passed through the volume control (at a reduced level) and the amp sees that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The self-biasing phones provide an interesting variation on this theme. As the volume goes up so does the bias and the volume of the phones goes up some more. At least that is true with my Koss ESP and ESP9. So you get a sort of dynamic range expansion, like the old dBx system, built in.

 BTW I still like my ESP6 and 9. They are not the fastest stats out there but they can be quite listenable when I need isolation like when I am sitting next to an air conditioner on a 100 degee plus day. 

 The 6 has a better midrange and ambience than the 9. The 9 sounds a little distant with its recessed middle and upper midrange and it has even less air than the 6. On the other hand it handles bass well and has a somewhat more refined sound._

 

The ESP's are very different from the Stax models and not even true push-pull electrostatic transducers. The diaphragm is also driven very differently and soaks up a lot more power then any Stax unit would. Stax built the SB bias supplies so that they were pretty much identical to the AC powered units (i.e. a transient limiter on the input) except they made sure they were fed enough voltage by using a second, bias only, transformer inside the box.


----------



## jgazal

Forget for a while electronic amplification. Instead, just think sounds we hear in the real world. Once I bought a chorus seat at Sao Paulo Concert Hall, Brazil. It was awful, because all the hall acoustics is planned to direct the sound to the front and I was at the rear very close to the timpani. They sell that seat at very cheap prices. They know that if you stay there you are going to hear everything wrong. Percussion and brass to close. Violins, cellos and winds firing to the front. Everything was deafening.

 Go back to electronic reproduction. Imagine that you want to record at Cape Canaveral the space shuttle going to the International Space Station. You want to record those massive solid fuel tanks getting burned to beat the gravitational force. You are going to have a quiet place (okay, imagine that you don't have wind that day...) going to, I don't know, maybe 150dB (remember that this is a logarithmic scale, thus there is a limit, no matter how much energy you have at your disposal). Imagine now that instead of seating there at the press conference (which stays some miles from the shuttle), you decide to broke the security and seat right there near the shuttle. First problem: I think you can't find any microphone prepared to deal with that absolute volume without distortion. The microphone membrane will be fully stucked at one side with that king of sound pressure (maybe max. dc current in the sinal, with clipping at -0dBs when bass waves achives its peaks). Second problem: why you want to reproduce that kind of range, if your listener will go deaf exactly as you while recording there?

 Okay, lets go back to the orchestra. Think about finger snap. If I where to record just finger snaps from only one hand during the whole track, I would have just microdynamics or microtransients (I think even a kick of drum can be classified as microtransient). If a recording engeneer were going to record a whole track with just fingers snaps from only one hand, where he would like to put the sinal within the CD dynamic range? I think that he wants to put it away from the bottom noise. Therefore, the snap peak is going to be near the full output (-0dBs, this is an electronic measure, not mechanical measure of volume). I think. While the real background is silent (at a well accousticall isolated studio), the inhereated electronic noise will be at the bottom, a long "distance" (volume) away from the snap minimum value (I don't know, maybe -10dBs). At that level, DAC and amplifier are working at full output, but with no huge dynamic range. How the listener gets an acceptable volume? He uses the volume attenuator knob, I think.

 So you say, where is the orchestra? Think about a violin solo during a track. Know think about the whole orchestra (I mean 50 instruments) going at their full potential. Now we are talking about macrodynamics or macrotransients. What the recording engineer can do about that? He is able to close micing every instrument getting acceptable volume levels right at their side and mixing eveything at a huge mixing console. But imagine instead that he wants to use only to microphones at a cross pattern to get the stereo image and then recording the sinal direct to two tracks. He is going to have a violin solo at, I don't know, maybe 40 dB (at the mic position, not at the musician ears). During the same track, he is going to have a full output orchestra 120 dB. That means a 80dB dynamic range. 

 Wait! Now I see why a CD must have a huge dynamic range, you say. Okay, CD's have approximately 96dB (?) and that's why is so difficult to record an orchestra. Your violin is going to be at -90dBs, very close to the inherited electronic noise (of the whole chain, not just the recorded by the media related to microphones self-noise of the membrane (huge membranes are better to decrease that noise, condenser microphones better, very low noise) and preamplifiers, but also from DAC and amplifier. Your potential client, that guy that buy your CD is going to increase the volume, hearing not only the violin, but also your inherited eletronic noise. During the track, music is going stronger and your electronic chain goes to full output (-0dBs) with the orchestra 120dB momentum. Your listener gets deaf and tries to decrease the volume knob. I think that's why SACD improves on CD, because it has 120dB (?) dynamic range and your lowest signal gets more distance from the bottom electronic inherited noise.

 Okay, okay, I undestood that. But why the recordings I have of an orchestra do not oscilate so much with my rig? Two things, I presume. 

 First, engineers know that problem and control the preamplifier volume knob on the fly (presume very difficult to do during the recording unless the engineer knows very well the maestro and the music he is recording) OR they let the preamplifier untouched and compress the signal during mastering (their only concern during recording is to avoid clipping at the orchestra absotute peak; they might have a clue by previous recordings with same orchestra composition or when they are fine tuning instruments). The first option is an analog compression of the dynamic range. The second one is a digital compression of the dynamic range. They put the 120 dB at -0dBs at the media and the 40dB violin at, I don't know, -50dBs, with digital computation (is this going to affect the signal resolution? I don't really know, but it sure affects the dynamics). Now your lowest recorded volume are going to be away from the inherited noise (right there at the bottom of the reproduced dynamic range), but your are not going to hear the real macro transient or macro dynamics. At your ear, sound may be going from 85dB at the violin solo to 125dB (amplifier at full output here) during the whole orchestra momentum. 

 Second, your amplifier is not prepared to deal with this raw amount of macro transients. So you say, is Spritzer correct then? I think people trying to compensate that compresion build amplifiers capable of huge headroom. Than that -0dbs to -50dBs dynamic range is sort of "amplified" again by a factor, let`s say to 40dB to 120dB. The problem is, I think, that while -dBs is an absolute measure of the electronic signal, I think there is no way to "inform" the amplifier (an standard dynamic range "amplification" factor) that it should be from 40dB to 120dB instead of going from 40dB to 130dB (without digital compression, but clipping the amplifier) or from 85dB to 125dB instead of 85dB to 135dB (hardly clipping I think at this volume, but the volume attenuator brings everything down here, ie, noise, lowest signal and highest signal), as I asked before... 

 Caution, here is where my comprehension gets more uncertain: I think that SACD deals with that using a 1bit variable scale instead of 24bits linear pcm discrete levels. Then the dynamic range is not limited by the amount of data you can store, but by the DAC chip swing. And you are able to increase the frequency sample because you are storing just one bit at each sample. If a lot of 0 are continously registered, signal is going down, if we have several 1`s continously, signal is going up. Initialize the dac standard volume and then the signal digital path will be adding 0 to go -dBs down until it reachs the right level (or adding 1 until it increase to -dBs correct level). Much better than having a discrete 24bits scale of -dBs. But, how that lot of 0's (or 1's) one after another do not interfere in signal frequency response? Because SACD is working with a sample much higher then the audible spectrum, I guess... I would love to understang that, really.

 Please, I am just speculating. I would like to hear from engineers if all that is correct. Help us to understand!

 p.s.: I think 2 Volts RMS is the maximum output power of a DAC when the digital signal is marked at -0dBs. During the playback the output is ranging from near zero (still electronic noise from the recorded, reproduced and added in/for circuit chain). Well, XLR balanced might have 4 Volts RMS, and might add less distortion as it has common noise reduction with opposite phases, but that's another whole problem (is there perfect noise reduction? phases are perfectly amplified within their paths?...)

 p.s.: There is always a bottle neck in dynamic range. If it is not the media, it is the microphone membrane. If it not the microphone preamplifier during the recording, it is the amplifier during reproduction. Summ this with electronic noise and we will never have electronic reproduction faithfull to reality. But I see no problem with that. Try to listen to a flute and a saxophone in Manhattan and you will hear better the sax, although a lot of detail is being lost because there is a lot of background noise (bus, car, people etc.), but still there is music to be heard. And I think that's why we like to go to acoustically isolated concert halls with lots of internal diffusion to hear an orchestra details.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ESP's are very different from the Stax models and not even true push-pull electrostatic transducers. The diaphragm is also driven very differently and soaks up a lot more power then any Stax unit would. Stax built the SB bias supplies so that they were pretty much identical to the AC powered units (i.e. a transient limiter on the input) except they made sure they were fed enough voltage by using a second, bias only, transformer inside the box._

 

The Koss ESP-6 and 9 are true 100% push-pull transducers. What makes them different is that the inner stator (by the ear) is referenced to ground for safety reasons. The secondary of the step-up transformer is tied to both stators and the HV supply is connected to the center tap. There are also some caps and resistors used for EQ that also make them different. Check out the schematic. Some of the early non push-pull electrostatic tweeters had high distortion.


----------



## spritzer

I can't really see what any of this has got to do with Stax or electrostatics in general? The headroom I'm talking about has nothing to do with the music but to respond to needs of the transducer. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Koss ESP-6 and 9 are true 100% push-pull transducers. What makes them different is that the inner stator (by the ear) is referenced to ground for safety reasons. The secondary of the step-up transformer is tied to both stators and the HV supply is connected to the center tap. There are also some caps and resistors used for EQ that also make them different. Check out the schematic. Some of the early non push-pull electrostatic tweeters had high distortion._

 

Indeed, what I meant is that they aren't driven by a full push-pull signal, but referenced to ground on the rear stator. I'd say it wasn't for safety reasons though but rather to limit the backwave since the PCB's are mounted only a few mm's from the back of the driver plus the closed enclosure.


----------



## The Monkey

I like the O2 mk1 the best.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the O2 mk1 the best._

 

That's almost a given.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed, what I meant is that they aren't driven by a full push-pull signal, but referenced to ground on the rear stator. I'd say it wasn't for safety reasons though but rather to limit the backwave since the PCB's are mounted only a few mm's from the back of the driver plus the closed enclosure._

 

Limiting the back wave by nonlinear drive is not possible. If I remember my physics correctly; there will always be an equal and opposite reaction to the diaphragm movement no matter how uneven it is driven. The only way to limit the back wave would be to make the back stator less porous to the air. This is not the case in the Koss. There is about .75 inch of spacing between the outer stator and the circuit board. The ESP-9 has two layers of foam and a layer of pressed cotton damping.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Limiting the back wave by nonlinear drive is not possible. If I remember my physics correctly; there will always be an equal and opposite reaction to the diaphragm movement no matter how uneven it is driven. The only way to limit the back wave would be to make the back stator less porous to the air. This is not the case in the Koss. There is about .75 inch of spacing between the outer stator and the circuit board. The ESP-9 has two layers of foam and a layer of pressed cotton damping._

 

Have you tried to run an ESP9 from a Stax amp, just as you can with the ESP950? I assume you would want to bypass the circuitry in the earcups.


----------



## jgazal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't really see what any of this has got to do with Stax or electrostatics in general? The headroom I'm talking about has nothing to do with the music but to respond to needs of the transducer. _

 

That's exactly what I was trying to understand, the term headroom. Sorry guys for getting off topic. I misundestood what spritzer had said. Nothing to do with Stax or electrostatic in general. My fault...


----------



## spritzer

I also wanted to share with the group that I just bought one of these... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Limiting the back wave by nonlinear drive is not possible. If I remember my physics correctly; there will always be an equal and opposite reaction to the diaphragm movement no matter how uneven it is driven. The only way to limit the back wave would be to make the back stator less porous to the air. This is not the case in the Koss. There is about .75 inch of spacing between the outer stator and the circuit board. The ESP-9 has two layers of foam and a layer of pressed cotton damping._

 

You can't eliminate the backwave but by driving only the front stator but the lower voltage used will reduce the output. This does beg the question, how would Stax headphones perform with only one active stator and the other grounded? An experiment for another day perhaps...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you tried to run an ESP9 from a Stax amp, just as you can with the ESP950? I assume you would want to bypass the circuitry in the earcups._

 

The drivers on their own will run just fine off a Stax amp but you will have to bypass all of the circuitry and connect 6 wires directly to the drivers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also wanted to share with the group that I just bought one of these... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

That's old news. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will you sell me your DIY KGBH then?


----------



## spritzer

Not over here and no.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not over here and no._

 

[okay, maybe not so funny...]


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also wanted to share with the group that I just bought one of these... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Excellent score Birgir!!! Let us know all about its sound.
 Aren't you going to do a full Lambda comparison also


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent score Birgir!!! Let us know all about its sound.
 Aren't you going to do a full Lambda comparison also 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm not actually getting to hear it any time soon since it is going on a little trip to Chicago first. 

 The Lambda comparison died when I sold all of them.


----------



## edstrelow

On the same topic I will be putting up my Lambda Nova Classic and SRM3 amp soon. I have posted me Koss 950 system which BTW has a Stax adapter thrown in.


----------



## edstrelow

On the same topic of sales I should be posting my Lambda Nova Classic and SR-3 amp soon. I have just posted my Koss 950 which also has a Stax adapter thrown in.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f10/fs...1/#post5896883


----------



## Victor Chew

The T2 is built like a tank? Well, congrats spritzer - you finally landed on the much sought after. A couple of question, this thing has a variable bias control? Is this an SET DC coupled?


----------



## Victor Chew

Sorry, pls delete double posts. My computer is really problematic. When I click post it stalls and when I click again, I get a double posts. Sorry MOD.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, pls delete double posts. My computer is really problematic. When I click post it stalls and when I click again, I get a double posts. Sorry MOD._

 

It's been a Head-fi problem


----------



## n3rdling

Very nice score Birgir! Do you know of any other headfi'ers who have owned the T2 in the past or currently?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The T2 is built like a tank? Well, congrats spritzer - you finally landed on the much sought after. A couple of question, this thing has a variable bias control? Is this an SET DC coupled?_

 

The build quality is one of the major issues with the T2 since it will fail or to be more precise, one of the transformers will fail. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I can get a custom unit made to those exact dimensions then I'll just swap it out now. They are also very sensitive to dust (bad PCB layout perhaps) so that's a concern. 

 The headphone bias is locked at 580v but the output stage bias should be adjustable. You can't have a SET electrostatic amp without splitting the phase with a transformer later on or running 4 SET's (one for each phase) which has a host of issues to say the least. The T2 is a normal dual-differential amp from input to output and while it is mostly DC-coupled, it does have input caps. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very nice score Birgir! Do you know of any other headfi'ers who have owned the T2 in the past or currently?_

 

Darth Nut had one (well two since his first one was destroyed) and somebody in the Uk bought one recently. I can't remember who though... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Btw. this is what I was up to yesterday, testing some Blue Hawaii boards...


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. this is what I was up to yesterday, testing some Blue Hawaii boards... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









_

 

If I may ask... what exactly were you testing?


----------



## spritzer

Whether they worked or had any issues before starting the chassis work.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also wanted to share with the group that I just bought one of these... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 


 Woah! That's fantastic!
 Didn't see one come up on any of the usual auctions. Where did you get it from?


----------



## spritzer

One of the European distributors had one sitting in the back almost unused.


----------



## jgazal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. this is what I was up to yesterday, testing some Blue Hawaii boards... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









_

 

Are you building it with one power supply per channel?


----------



## spritzer

No, just testing the boards one at a time.


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One of the European distributors had one sitting in the back almost unused._

 

Dang, I'm sooooooooooooooooooooooo jealous! How does it sound?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also wanted to share with the group that I just bought one of these... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/1325/40729759.jpg_

 

Sweet! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 One of the rarer amplifiers around here, which quite a lot of us have been curious about for years..


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jigster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dang, I'm sooooooooooooooooooooooo jealous! How does it sound?_

 

I won't hear it for some time since it is going to the US first.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I won't hear it for some time since it is going to the US first._

 

That sucks for you. About as bad as Asr having his KGBHSE in California for the first 3 months of his ownership. I told him if he doesn't want to get attached to it, don't listen to it and sell it to me because I did listen to it and became attached to it in the first 5 minutes.


----------



## pidesd

-


----------



## pidesd

hi all,

 i ve got a quick "new stax owner" question: does my srd-6 accepts balanced inputs? that is the "minus" is a phase inverted signal instead of ground.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pidesd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi all,

 i ve got a quick "new stax owner" question: does my srd-6 accepts balanced inputs? that is the "minus" is a phase inverted signal instead of ground._

 

Yes, you won't fry your amp nor your headphones.


----------



## pidesd

thanks. 

 soundstage has widened and bass has tightened( on my sr-5 via b22)

 i must say i m impressed. all that from such a low value phone? wow...


----------



## n3rdling

The SR5 is a great little headphone


----------



## Johnnie

Has anyone notice the Stax earspeakers retaining odors other than smoke? For instance, has anyone noticed a distinct smell of perfume or shampoo on his or her earspeakers. I ask because I recently sold my SRS-2050 system on Audiogon. The buyer e-mailed me asking whether I applied shampoo to the SR-202s, stating there is a strong odor of perfumy shampoo on them. I was a little surprised by this, given it would put the drivers at great risk and would serve no useful purpose. 

 I never noticed any distinct or unusual odors on the SR-202s prior to their sale, otherwise, I would have mentioned this on my Audiogon listing. It would not surprise me that the earspeakers retain some shampoo odor given the pads and headband likely retain the natural oils our hair and skin produces. I am very curious whether this is an isolated experience or others have noted it too.


----------



## Duggeh

My SR-007 smells of awesome. So much so that when I first opened the box everyone in the room turned their heads and said "awesome!".

 Is that the sort of scent you're talking about?


----------



## Duggeh

-Double post-

 -Double post-


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My SR-007 smells of awesome. So much so that when I first opened the box everyone in the room turned their heads and said "awesome!".

 Is that the sort of scent you're talking about?_

 

I wish it were, but unfortunately, according to the buyer, it's not.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone notice the Stax earspeakers retaining odors other than smoke? For instance, has anyone noticed a distinct smell of perfume or shampoo on his or her earspeakers. I ask because I recently sold my SRS-2050 system on Audiogon. The buyer e-mailed me asking whether I applied shampoo to the SR-202s, stating there is a strong odor of perfumy shampoo on them. I was a little surprised by this, given it would put the drivers at great risk and would serve no useful purpose. 

 I never noticed any distinct or unusual odors on the SR-202s prior to their sale, otherwise, I would have mentioned this on my Audiogon listing. It would not surprise me that the earspeakers retain some shampoo odor given the pads and headband likely retain the natural oils our hair and skin produces. I am very curious whether this is an isolated experience or others have noted it too._

 

Weird - my only smelly headphones were some Darth Beyer that came from Hong Kong and smelled like a damp basement, and some AKG K240M 600 ohm that used to belong to Stevie Wonder and still smell like his hair gel. I kept the K240 and sold the Darths. I can live with the sweet smell...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish it were, but unfortunately, according to the buyer, it's not._

 

I think I have a pretty sensitive nose. My O2s arrived smelling heavily of smoke, which made me nuts. (Of course, I was able to smell the awesome deep within, as well.) Nothing I could do resolved the situation and I replaced the pads, headband, and arc. 

 My Signatures and Lambda Pros both had a certain...mustiness to them before I changed the pads. Even then, I wouldn't say that the entire assemblies were smell neutral. They both smelled, well, kind of old. Nothing offensive, but it was there.

 I guess my point is that funk seems to hang on Staxen for better or for worse.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I have a pretty sensitive nose. My O2s arrived smelling heavily of smoke, which made me nuts. (Of course, I was able to smell the awesome deep within, as well.) Nothing I could do resolved the situation and I replaced the pads, headband, and arc. 

 My Signatures and Lambda Pros both had a certain...mustiness to them before I changed the pads. Even then, I wouldn't say that the entire assemblies were smell neutral. They both smelled, well, kind of old. Nothing offensive, but it was there.

 I guess my point is that funk seems to hang on Staxen for better or for worse._

 

Best not to buy Staxen from those long passed. Their spirits curl up in the flight cases.


----------



## Sherwood

Twice a week, I coat my SR lambda in a thick coat of Sherwood-derived musk. It is so that, long after my bones have turned to dust and the middle schools bearing my name have been obliterated, the giant roaches wearing them will have no choice but to remember me still.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Weird - my only smelly headphones were some Darth Beyer that came from Hong Kong and smelled like a damp basement, and some AKG K240M 600 ohm that used to belong to Stevie Wonder and still smell like his hair gel. I kept the K240 and sold the Darths. I can live with the sweet smell... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Larry - I should have known you'd have a selection of "celebrity" headphones. I must have missed them during last month's meet. 

 It is a strange thing. My olfactory senses are likely impaired from years of chaning diapers.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Twice a week, I coat my SR lambda in a thick coat of Sherwood-derived musk. It is so that, long after my bones have turned to dust and the middle schools bearing my name have been obliterated, the giant roaches wearing them will have no choice but to remember me still._

 

"Achilles absent, was Achilles still."


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Larry - I should have known you'd have a selection of "celebrity" headphones. I must have missed them during last month's meet. 

 It is a strange thing. My olfactory senses are likely impaired from years of chaning diapers._

 

They were in one of the two silver flight cases, so you missed smelling them. Sorry.


----------



## xaval

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The thing I like about the Sigma that being less detailed can be an advantage as well, for a lot of music that are not recorded very well. Also, it is almost never fatiguing unlike the Lambda Sig I just got which can bite 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I wouldn't describe them as boring.

 I also got an SRD-7 MK2 adapter, although I have no speaker amp to try it with. Maybe with my friend's Jadis Orchestra tube amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you manage to have a listen with the Jadis yet? It would be nice to hear about it since I don't know of anyone else with a Jadis/Stax combo 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have tested my Lambda's with... lesser... amps and THERE is a substantial difference. So much so that the Stax is now resident in my listening room and not in the office anymore


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xaval* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you manage to have a listen with the Jadis yet?_

 

No, I couldn't and I may never will because I sold them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But with the Audiolab amp was pretty good driving the Sigma. My friend told me that he compared the SRD-7 SB and SRD-7 MK2 SB (using the normal bias socket) and the latter clearly sounded better so the parts used in the adapter seem to matter as well.


----------



## Sherwood

You sold something before ever listening to it?

 Friend, it is time to take a look at your life.


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Achilles absent, was Achilles still."_

 

Look upon me, ye mighty, and despair


----------



## padam

You misunderstand, I couldn't try it with my friend's amp but that doesn't mean I didn't try it with others.


----------



## Ub3rMario

Hey so I'm new to stats and was wondering if there's a proper way of turning them on/plugging in. With my dynamic cans I have always first turned the amp on while leaving it at lowest volume, then plug the cans in and then turn the amp up. Then when turning off I would turn the volume all the way down then unplug them and turn the amp off. 

 Now i'm unsure even if my method for the dynamic headphones is proper, but that doesn't matter. Again, is there a certain way I should be powering up/off my stax headphones? I have the sr202 with srm-252II


----------



## krmathis

^ I use this method and have not ran into problems for 3 years.

*Turn ON:*
 1. Plug in headphone (if unplugged).
 2. Turn on the amplifier.
 3. Get some music going (Play).
 4. Turn volume up to appropriate level.

*Turn OFF:*
 1. Turn volume all the way down.
 2. Stop music.
 3. Turn of the amplifier.
 4. Unplug headphone (or leave them in).


----------



## marxmarx

Need help!
 My old Stax Srm-1/mk2 energizer no output for PRO headphones. On the PCB is empty space for a pro bias supply. Prompt please where to get the schematic or what components I need to install here (parameters).
 Thanks


----------



## marxmarx

Need help!
 My old Stax Srm-1/mk2 energizer no output for PRO headphones. On the PCB is empty space for a pro bias supply. Prompt please where to get the schematic or what components I need to install here (parameters).
 Thanks


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ I use this method and have not ran into problems for 3 years.

*Turn ON:*
 1. Plug in headphone (if unplugged).
 2. Turn on the amplifier.
 3. Get some music going (Play).
 4. Turn volume up to appropriate level.

*Turn OFF:*
 1. Turn volume all the way down.
 2. Stop music.
 3. Turn of the amplifier.
 4. Unplug headphone (or leave them in)._

 

krmathis, you forgot to include LOVE before and after,

 0.1. Take out of the airtight padded hardcase
 0.2. Visually admire them
 0.3. Delicately caress with a microfiber cloth
 0.4. Delicately blow any dust particles that have dared to touch them


----------



## spritzer

I'm currently testing one of these.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm currently testing one of these. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






_

 

Birgir, Looks GREAT! Keep us informed.
 Remember I want one.
 Doug


----------



## Ub3rMario

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_krmathis, you forgot to include LOVE before and after,

 0.1. Take out of the airtight padded hardcase
 0.2. Visually admire them
 0.3. Delicately caress with a microfiber cloth
 0.4. Delicately blow any dust particles that have dared to touch them_

 

After having listened to my new stax for a couple days now, I have to say I have caught myself doing all of that. I woke up today and just laid in my bed staring at my stax wondering if I was dreaming still hahaha.

 Anyway, I have a question! So I'm using the sr202 and was wondering how I should go about placing them on my ears. Should I place them farther forward & down like I have read you should do with dynamic headphones? I'm starting to doubt it even matters with these babies since they haven't left me unimpressed yet.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm currently testing one of these. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







_

 

Birgir, could you put me on the list for pricing information on one of these boards please?


----------



## Sherwood

Mjolnir audio? Classy, Birgir. A DIY stax energizer is pretty akin to Thor's hammer in my book, too.


----------



## Victor Chew

Wonderful job Spritzer. Couple this with some nice transformers like the Lundahl or Sowter and who knows what this is capable of when hooked up to a high quality amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Birgir, could you put me on the list for pricing information on one of these boards please?_

 

I've been adding up the numbers and the boards cost me roughly 22$ each after the customs here had a go at the package. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Postage and packing would be another 5-7$ or so but I have to package one up and see how much it weighs. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mjolnir audio? Classy, Birgir. A DIY stax energizer is pretty akin to Thor's hammer in my book, too._

 

It was a joke at first but I do like it now. Mjölnir was supposed to shoot lightnings so it is appropriate. I really have to draw up a logo too... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wonderful job Spritzer. Couple this with some nice transformers like the Lundahl or Sowter and who knows what this is capable of when hooked up to a high quality amp._

 

While this will certainly work with any transformer chosen, I'd probably use a different design for high end transformers. The main problem here is the lack of a transformer on the input of the bias supply so there is no neutral. This isn't a problem since these bias supplies have been in service for 50 years but with a bit more space at hand I could do a better PSU. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also in a stripped down version like this, there can be audible hum through the headphones until the amp powers up and the "ground" becomes active. Stax got around this using various tricks which are all in the signal path so I left them out. There is no hum during use (unless you have fubar transformers like the ones I'm using now) so it's not much of an issue.


----------



## Victor Chew

I had a problem with the SRD7mk2 hum. Managed to get rid of a lot of it when I moved the amp away from the CD player. However, the hum though not obvious is still audible. Less so during the day time when there is more noise around me. I get alot less with the illusion though, but there is still some hum, but not as much as the SRD7mk2. I am now awaiting parts for my border patrol to reduce the gain. They said that their current models has this lower gain (using 6C45pi tubes) and less hum problems. Slight circuit changes to take the new tubes. I hope that the hum can go off completely.


----------



## audioaffair

Stax are indeed stunning though do have a monopoly on the electrostatic market (though for good reason!) Interested to know if anyone has heard any alternative electrostatic models that come close to the Stax?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audioaffair* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax are indeed stunning though do have a monopoly on the electrostatic market (though for good reason!) Interested to know if anyone has heard any alternative electrostatic models that come close to the Stax?_

 

Monopoly?
 HE Audio and Koss both make electrostatic headphones, and from what I have read both of them are strong competitors to Stax 'phones.

 Then there are of course the out-of-production models, like Sennheiser HE90 and HE60.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a problem with the SRD7mk2 hum. Managed to get rid of a lot of it when I moved the amp away from the CD player. However, the hum though not obvious is still audible. Less so during the day time when there is more noise around me. I get alot less with the illusion though, but there is still some hum, but not as much as the SRD7mk2. I am now awaiting parts for my border patrol to reduce the gain. They said that their current models has this lower gain (using 6C45pi tubes) and less hum problems. Slight circuit changes to take the new tubes. I hope that the hum can go off completely._

 

That is probably the amp and not the phones but many speaker amps hum but the low level is never heard via the speakers. Headphones on the other hand make it quite clear. The SR-003 manages to dig up everything...


----------



## Duckman

A question regarding the T1W amp. The manual I have is in Japanese and I can't say I know any Japanese at all.

 I am about to use a pair of normal bias Lambdas on the T1W tonight. Do I need to adjust the bias voltage switch before plugging into the normal bias socket? Is is just a matter of sticking a screwdriver in there and turning left or right? At the moment it sounds okay with the pro-bias Lambda Signatures I've been using.

 Any help appreciated.


----------



## John Buchanan

As long as you plug it into the normal bias connector (and it IS possible to do otherwise if you have one of those older 6 pin at one end and 5 pin at the other extension leads from Stax) it should play just fine. I think the adjustable bias is only applicable to the pro outputs from memory, but I have never played with one.


----------



## Tachikoma

Yep, the adjustable output only applies to one of the pro outputs, and yes you just stick a screwdriver in there to change it. IIRC it goes from 580V -> something lower and not the other way around.


----------



## Duckman

Thanks guys!


----------



## yale.reinstein

My rig sounds better at night... 

 Is there anything that could explain this? All I can come up with is...

 Power. I'm completely uneducated on the issues concerning power, but I can only assume less usage during the night could lead to cleaner power for me.

 Subjectively it might also be the ambient noise in my house, or that I'm just a night person... But I don't see why I want to listen so much when I'm begging for sleep while not enjoying them as much when I'm not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there anything I could be missing? Suggestions? 

 Thanks


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been adding up the numbers and the boards cost me roughly 22$ each after the customs here had a go at the package. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Postage and packing would be another 5-7$ or so but I have to package one up and see how much it weighs._

 

Could I join the queue for one of these please.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My rig sounds better at night... 

 Is there anything that could explain this? All I can come up with is...

 Power. I'm completely uneducated on the issues concerning power, but I can only assume less usage during the night could lead to cleaner power for me.

 Subjectively it might also be the ambient noise in my house, or that I'm just a night person... But I don't see why I want to listen so much when I'm begging for sleep while not enjoying them as much when I'm not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there anything I could be missing? Suggestions? 

 Thanks_

 

Most likely is the power grid... your grid shared by many users with a lot of electronics that pollute the mains, at night, there are less users and so the mains is less polluted. 
 Getting a mains filter should work, however I had a hard time choosing one because most sacrifice some performance, especially dynamics. After trying many, I ended up buying Isotek products, the sound improvement was incredible.
 If you can afford the PS Audio Power Plant Premier choose that one, it is not a filter, it reconstructs your polluted mains into perfectly clean mains. It has been one of the best upgrades I have ever done, wouldn't consider listening without it, it has become an essential part of my hifi system.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But I don't see why I want to listen so much when I'm begging for sleep while not enjoying them as much when I'm not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

There's the reason. You're manufacturing an internal conflict, the tension from which is making for a perceived more intense listening experience.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IIRC it goes from 580V -> something lower and not the other way around._

 

It's 580v down to 480v but do remeber to discharge the phones while checking for differences since they can hold a charge for a while.


----------



## pidesd

i ve got another quick question...

 i just bought an srd-7 from a fellow head-fier thinkink it would be an upgrade (following Audiocats advice). now i just saw Spritzer wrote somewhere that the srd 7 and srd 6 have same transformers and circuit. 

 now who says right? i m all mixed up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 has someone ever took out the top of both to see inside?i wish i can cancel the sale on time if they are they same.


----------



## Duggeh

Not understanding what you are buying really isn't appropriate reason for asking for a void on the sale in my opinion.


----------



## pidesd

i read the post from spritzer just after i bought it

 i hope the seller will be kind enough to cancel the sale. and at the price he sold it to, i think he ll be able to find someone pretty quickly.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not understanding what you are buying really isn't appropriate reason for asking for a void on the sale in my opinion._

 

Absolutely true statement.


----------



## Tachikoma

Well the SRD-6SB sounded like **** to me while the SRD-7SBmk2 was acceptable. Just judging by the size of their enclosures can they really be using the same transformers?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the SRD-6SB sounded like **** to me while the SRD-7SBmk2 was acceptable. Just judging by the size of their enclosures can they really be using the same transformers?_

 

They sure look identical and the transformers in the SRD-7 are only half the height of the enclosure: 





 I just bought a SRD-6 so we'll find out...


----------



## Victor Chew

Just thinking out loud, if the transformers are the same (SRD6SB and SRD7SBmk2), I can only think of the speaker wires and/or the selector that is causing the sound difference. The bias should not be making such a big difference if the voltage is the same. Moreover both are SB as well. Unless the transformers look the same but are different internally from use of different components (ie. the core, and the quality of the wires, presuming that the windings are the same).


----------



## Sherwood

The selector wouldn't be in the signal path, would it? It should only have a very minimal impact on the sound, if I understand its function correctly.


----------



## spritzer

The switch shouldn't matter but Stax could have deliberately done something to the SRD-6 to sell the more expensive product. Certainly wouldn't be the first time something like that is done but I'll rip mine apart when I get it an post about it.


----------



## pidesd

as far as i understand it, the switch is only a selector for the ground path, so in an unbalanced configuaration it will not affect the sound.

 also, i notice that when i wire the transformers directly to the input wires inside my srd-6, the sound improve quite a bit, thus bypassing some kind of protection resistors in the signal path ( not sure about these devices called PTHbd4r7m murata)

 btw the srd-6 trafos (the volume of the taped portion) are 1,8*2,3*3,0 cm approximately. if the "taped" area is a sushi slice, then 1,8 cm would be the slice spacing(best analogy i could find 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Anders

Couldn't the driver from Mjölnir Audio surpass Stax in parts and sound quality?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pidesd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_as far as i understand it, the switch is only a selector for the ground path, so in an unbalanced configuaration it will not affect the sound.

 also, i notice that when i wire the transformers directly to the input wires inside my srd-6, the sound improve quite a bit, thus bypassing some kind of protection resistors in the signal path ( not sure about these devices called PTHbd4r7m murata)

 btw the srd-6 trafos (the volume of the taped portion) are 1,8*2,3*3,0 cm approximately. if the "taped" area is a sushi slice, then 1,8 cm would be the slice spacing(best analogy i could find 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

The switch actually switches all four wires at once so that the transformer can be used with balanced amps. Not all SRD-7's are like this though so I modeled the return path of my board after those with a shared -. It's easy enough to just not use the board connections. 

 Those things are thermistors, 4r7's to be exact. I left them out since as you can see in the pic above, I prefer a direct in/out approach. Those transformers have also had the wiring replaced right to the windings, not something I recommend doing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The primary is easy enough to work with but the secondary wires are thinner then a hair...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Couldn't the driver from Mjölnir Audio surpass Stax in parts and sound quality?_

 

Hehe, the new bias board works better with the newer Stax phones and when used with better transformers, should be quite a bit better.


----------



## Duckman

Quick canvass of opinion: which would you consider a better 'all rounder': original Lambda, or 404?

 Cheers,

 Dave


----------



## Sherwood

I'm going to weigh in with my predictable answer here...


----------



## Duckman

Thanks Sherwood. I've been listening to a borrowed set of original Lambdas for the last couple of days, and they are lovely indeed. But curious about the 404/303.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Sherwood. I've been listening to a borrowed set of original Lambdas for the last couple of days, and they are lovely indeed. But curious about the 404/303._

 

Do you mean the low bias Lambda or Lambda pro? 

 Either way you are not going to get the detail and definition of the 404. And the 404 Ltd is by some reckoned to be an improvement.

 Many of the early Stax phones are still very good performers even by comparison with the best new phones and you can put together a fine set-up with them. But you tend to get heavier diaphragms which limits detail. And a high bias phone will, all other things being equal, give better dynamics. However you may prefer the frequency response of a particular phone irrespective of other characteristics. However, in my experience you will tire of the lower definition phones.

 I hav seen enthusiasm for many phones from people with limited listening experience. You really need to live with 2 phones for a while to give a proper opinion.

 I have 3 Lambdas in my possession and they each sound diferent. But detail and bass -wise the 404 leads the Lambda pack.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/


----------



## Duckman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You really need to live with 2 phones for a while to give a proper opinion._

 

Indeedy! I live in Melbourne... and welcome PMs from any local Stax enthusiasts 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have 3 Lambdas in my possession and they each sound diferent. But detail and bass -wise the 404 leads the Lambda pack.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/_

 

Thanks Edstrelow. I have read and re-read your review, which has been very helpful. 

 In terms of the 404, I am worried by your observation that "there is no denying its upper midrange peak and this may be too much for some listeners." Guess I'll won't know if which side of the fence I'll fall until I've heard it. I love the idea of more detail, though!

 On the other hand, I've been impressed so far by the evenness of the low bias Lambdas. Well recorded choral music is spookily real. Rock is suprisingly enjoyable, albeit not as involving as my AD2000 - which in turn fades drastically in a detail comparison.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick canvass of opinion: which would you consider a better 'all rounder': original Lambda, or 404?_

 

Alright, I'll get on my hobby horse on this one.

 First, I live in Sydney, so catch a flight up if you want to try some other ESPs out sometime 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Second, I'm loaning my Lambda Normals out shortly but have been enjoying them so much on Sydney winter evenings recently that the poor person wanting to try them is having to be very patient with me (sorry, fraseyboy - I WILL get them packed and off to you soon - really....)

 So, you may guess my hobby horse will be claiming they are the better 'all rounder'.

 Nope, sorry.

 My hobby horse is that it depends what you're running with these Lambdas.

 All that edstrelow says holds merit, but most particularly with the better amplification you provide.

 So, for instance, I'd say the 404s have a number of the exceptional Stax characteristics, including solid bass (which isn't overpowering even with a tube amp) and fine presentation of intricate detail. They are light and comfortable and do drive that touch better than the Normals, and extend the top end delivery. With good amplification, say my Woo GES or my McAllister EA-4 when I had it, they provided a clearer resolution with a smooth, full, rich presentation.

 However I must say that the Woo and the McAllister are amps that more easilly differentiate the characteristics of various ESPs for me. Put these on my much more modest bedside ESP amp, the Stax SRD-XPro, and the differences will not be so quite distinct. In fact this amp, which I regard as more a leveller than a differentiator, just simply cannot drive the HE60s or SR-007 sufficiently to show their defining standout characteristics, which they clearly raise above other ESPs for me on the higher grade amps.

 So on the SRD-XPro I find the Lambda Normals to be a fascination. They show a sweetness, but not so blended to be a mellowness, to the traditional Lambda sound. As reported elsewhere, they don't have the peaks and troughs experienced with other Lambdas (including Pro, Signature, 303, 404, etc) but their evenness across the spectrum is balanced by a reduction in fine detail and punch in the bass area (which is not uncommon with the lower bias). However I must stress this is much less noticeable with this set up, which I attribute to the slightly lower powered amp. In fact this SRD-XPro set up is my preferred setup for the Lambda Normals and the Lambda Normals are one of my most preferred headphones for my bedside setup. There is definitely a very working synergy for these headphones with my bedside setup - they become simply engaging and entrancing, almost as much as the ESP950s on this rig (which is really saying something I must admit). So although it's oh so slightly softer/less dynamic than the Koss it really is almost as engaging and perfect for warm winter Australian evenings with my bedside rig. Perhaps without this rig I'd move them on, but with this rig they and the ESP950s provide an ideal set of companions for sharing music with my wife.


----------



## kintsaki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 ... Alright, I'll get on My hobby horse is that it depends what you're running with these Lambdas.

 All that edstrelow says holds merit, but most particularly with the better amplification you provide ...

 ....So although it's oh so slightly softer/less dynamic than the Koss it really is almost as engaging and perfect for warm winter Australian evenings with my bedside rig. Perhaps without this rig I'd move them on, but with this rig they and the ESP950s provide an ideal set of companions for sharing music with my wife. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Jokingly (I do not want to be taken seriously)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




,

 when ones introduces a host of external but important parameters such as global area, season, time of night and wife companionship
 it becomes very difficult to be subjective to differentiate between the "good" Lambdas.

 Now Ed has talked a lot about the importance of clean power which one experiences at night or all the time with an appropriate after market devise but I do not recall any comments of his referring to "sharing with one's mate at night in bed" (mates may share a lot more than music in bed)...


----------



## jigster

Saw this DIY amp for electrostats on German ebay and thought I'd post it here.
 The seller has also included photos of the internals.

High-End VerstÃ¤rker fÃ¼r Stax und andere Elektrostaten bei eBay.de: (endet 23.08.09 11:58:48 MESZ)


----------



## spritzer

It's one of the German "high-amp" amps and if you can read German, read about it here. I also believe the builder, rille, is a member here.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeedy! I live in Melbourne... and welcome PMs from any local Stax enthusiasts 



 Thanks Edstrelow. I have read and re-read your review, which has been very helpful. 

 In terms of the 404, I am worried by your observation that "there is no denying its upper midrange peak and this may be too much for some listeners." Guess I'll won't know if which side of the fence I'll fall until I've heard it. I love the idea of more detail, though!

 On the other hand, I've been impressed so far by the evenness of the low bias Lambdas. Well recorded choral music is spookily real. Rock is suprisingly enjoyable, albeit not as involving as my AD2000 - which in turn fades drastically in a detail comparison._

 


 I think most audio types like equipment which flatters their prefered music. In fact that only makes sense, especially if you have specific/limited tastes vs broad tastes. Why would you buy something that doesn't make your listening pleasurable. 

 The 404 is probably ideal in its price range for music like classical orchestral because of its solid bass and great detail, enhanced somewhat by its prominent midrange. 

 It may not work with music which is allready mid-range or treble prominent, it will just sound too thin, although its greater detail will always be a factor in its favor.

 For those with broader tastes in music, the issue is more often what will sound good with a broad range of music unless you are willing to use different phones for different music.

 Among the all-rounders I list the Stax 003, Signature, Sigma and Sigma pro and even the Lambda Nova Classic. These sound good with a wide range of material although they do not necessarily bring out the best in any. 

 I have little experience with the original low bias Lambda or Lambda pro. Someone should really do a comparative review of these with some other Lambdas.

 The 003 and Sigmas have a rolled off top range which gets rid of a lot of harshness but both suffer from some level of midbass boominess. 

 I find the Signature quite detailed and listenable on a wide range of material in spite of a slight treble tizziness and slight weakness in bass. However its loss of midrange detail, by comparison with other phones bothers me most but it is not something you will necessarily spot unless you do a direct comparison with another Lambda

 The Sigma/404 is basically like the Sigma Pro, but with enough added treble, deep bass and general detail to move it up, in my estimation, to being a good all-rounder, only beaten in that respect by the 007A (with spring modification which reduces its treble and bass peakiness) and it has the added benefit of the large open soundstage characteristic of few other phones except to some degree the AKGK1000.


----------



## spritzer

Choice of music is a huge factor but I'd say the SR-Lambda is the ESL57 of the range, its only sins are those of omission. 

 Btw. I'm listening to grand papa of all Stax amps now, SRM-T2. This thing is freaking huge, runs very hot and doesn't sound too bad to boot...


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Choice of music is a huge factor but I'd say the SR-Lambda is the ESL57 of the range, its only sins are those of omission. 

 Btw. I'm listening to grand papa of all Stax amps now, SRM-T2. This thing is freaking huge, runs very hot and doesn't sound too bad to boot... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Envy


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Choice of music is a huge factor but I'd say the SR-Lambda is the ESL57 of the range, its only sins are those of omission. 

 Btw. I'm listening to grand papa of all Stax amps now, SRM-T2. This thing is freaking huge, runs very hot and doesn't sound too bad to boot... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So that means you now have a DIY Blue Hawaii available to sell me at a nice price?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw. I'm listening to grand papa of all Stax amps now, SRM-T2. This thing is freaking huge, runs very hot and doesn't sound too bad to boot... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh my, oh my!
 Any pictures and/or impressions to share with us?


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I'd say the SR-Lambda is the ESL57 of the range, its only sins are those of omission._

 

Well said, spritzer. That really does nail it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Sigma/404 is basically like the Sigma Pro, but with enough added treble, deep bass and general detail to move it up, in my estimation, to being a good all-rounder...and it has the added benefit of the large open soundstage characteristic of few other phones except to some degree the AKGK1000._

 

A very good point for you to consider, Duckman. Personally I can't stand the Lambdas on my head during the warmer months in Australia. The Sigma 404s and Sigma Normals rule at those times with their greater space around the ears. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So that means you now have a DIY Blue Hawaii available to sell me at a nice price? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You assume too much, I fear. This is spritzer. He might easilly decide to retain that DIY model and kick that old SRM-T2 thing over to the other side of the planet...say perhaps the Southern Hemisphere?


----------



## Bullseye

Hey guys,

 Well, I have been thinking this thoroughly and I might end up getting the STAX basic system SRS-2050. It might be a nice & expensive present for my upcoming B-day (end of this month).

 I am still looking for some info (objective mainly), regarding some aspects of the driver unit. The SRM-252. On normal listening levels, when any STAX heaphone is plugged into it (lets say the sr-202), is it possible to get a good listening level without any technical issue (such as distortion or voltage drops)?

 Has anyone listened to some Omega 2 or sr-303 through the SRM252?


----------



## spritzer

Well I've already started on a DIY version which is moar better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 One thing is for sure, Stax never made any money making the T2 and thus probably will not make something like this again. They were crazy to even make it in the first place.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys,

 Well, I have been thinking this thoroughly and I might end up getting the STAX basic system SRS-2050. It might be a nice & expensive present for my upcoming B-day (end of this month).

 I am still looking for some info (objective mainly), regarding some aspects of the driver unit. The SRM-252. On normal listening levels, when any STAX heaphone is plugged into it (lets say the sr-202), is it possible to get a good listening level without any technical issue (such as distortion or voltage drops)?

 Has anyone listened to some Omega 2 or sr-303 through the SRM252?_

 

In my opinion the SRS-2050 is the best bang-for-the-buck in the Stax line-up. You get more detail and precision as you step up though the higher-end Stax systems, but the 2050 will give you much of what the Stax experience is all about.

 And yes, the SRM-252 will drive the O2 to a moderate listening level without distortion. Some of us here have used this combo from time to time as a transportable high-end system.

 Be warned though. No matter how good the 2050 system is (and it is very good), the fact that you are on Head-Fi reading this thread makes you very vulnerable to the dreaded Head-Fi upgrade-itis. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 An O2 may be in your future, whether you realize it or not!


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WilCox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my opinion the SRS-2050 is the best bang-for-the-buck in the Stax line-up. You get more detail and precision as you step up though the higher-end Stax systems, but the 2050 will give you much of what the Stax experience is all about.

 And yes, the SRM-252 will drive the O2 to a moderate listening level without distortion. Some of us here have used this combo from time to time as a transportable high-end system.

 Be warned though. No matter how good the 2050 system is (and it is very good), the fact that you are on Head-Fi reading this thread makes you very vulnerable to the dreaded Head-Fi upgrade-itis. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 An O2 may be in your future, whether you realize it or not!_

 

Thank you for the comment WilCox.

 I have decided I will be leaving head-fi with my last purchase. I don't see myself spending so much for a pair of headphones, when I know a speaker system would give me way much more. Shame I can't have one right now.

 I am a low volume listener, but always like to have some extra volume.
 If i were to get other STAX headphones would be either second hand discontinued (lambda or some stuff like that), or the sr-303 (even if I doubt it differs too much from the 202...)


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have decided I will be leaving head-fi with my last purchase. I don't see myself spending so much for a pair of headphones, when I know a speaker system would give me way much more. Shame I can't have one right now._

 

Yeah, that's what they all say. Good luck with that.


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, that's what they all say. Good luck with that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Want to bet something? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If i don't come to this forums nor spend more money on headphones for lets say "X" time, what are you willing to give me as a "reward".


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Want to bet something? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 If i don't come to this forums nor spend more money on headphones for lets say "X" time, what are you willing to give me as a "reward"._

 

A permanent ban?


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A permanent ban?




_

 

Actually that wouldn't be a bad idea.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have decided I will be leaving head-fi with my last purchase. I don't see myself spending so much for a pair of headphones, when I know a speaker system would give me way much more. Shame I can't have one right now._

 

That what I did after I finished buying some suppressors (silencers) for my firearms a couple of years ago. Once I was done I stopped visiting GlockTalk and SilencerTests forums and haven't bought any new ones in 2 years. I've since lost my willpower to leave this place.


----------



## Currawong

I can't see myself posting as much now I'm much closer to getting a rig that satisfies me. Anyway...

 There are a lot of bargains with vintage Stax gear available, so it's easy to get a nice rig for around $1000 IMO. The difficulty is the large number of Lambda models available and their different sound signatures. If you like low-volume listening, 'stats don't push as much air as dynamic cans, so, along with being light-weight, they can be very relaxing to listen with.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So that means you now have a DIY Blue Hawaii available to sell me at a nice price? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How much an how often are you going to _wink wink nudge nudge_ at Spritzer to build you, make you from parts you've got or sell you a BH or KGSS and get either negative or ignored responses until you get a clue that it wont happen? And that includes your response to the joke a while back about a community build of a BH for me.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much an how often are you going to wink wink nudge nudge at Spritzer to build you, make you from parts you've got or sell you a BH or KGSS and get either negative or ignored responses until you get a clue that it wont happen? And that includes your response to the joke a while back about a community build of a BH for me._

 

I guess I'm just too ******* stupid to give up. And, I'm so stupid I still said I'd donate to help you get one built.


----------



## n3rdling

Glad I'm not the only one who noticed...it's pretty lame HPA.

 BHSE looks gorgeous...I'm trying to stick to what I told myself at CanJam: "No matter what it sounds like I promise myself I won't spend that much on an amp." It's getting difficult to keep that promise!


----------



## n_maher

Please continue the rather protracted amp discussion here:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/sta...estion-440481/


----------



## gilency

who? what? where did it go??????? Boomana, was that you?????
 EDIT: my bad. I think it was Maher. And found it!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Wow, that was some pretty extensive editing there.


----------



## The Monkey

Back On Topic. Has anyone had any contact with Yama's Inc. recently?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Back On Topic. Has anyone had any contact with Yama's Inc. recently?_

 

Are they still ignoring calls and e-mails?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are they still ignoring calls and e-mails?_

 

I haven't tried in a while. Maybe they're just focusing on dealers?


----------



## progo

Whoa. This oldie has been selling the LNS + T1S combo for two years or so, now they are priced to €600 which sounds very appealing. Too bad I can't afford it right now. Besides, they probably won't whack the shinola out of my K1000s.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa. This oldie has been selling the LNS + T1S combo for two years or so, now they are priced to €600 which sounds very appealing. Too bad I can't afford it right now. Besides, they probably won't whack the shinola out of my K1000s._

 

Hell of a deal.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Hi. I've bought a set of replacement pads for my 303's as the sheet of foam of the old ones (the one between the earlobe and the metallic protective mesh of the headphone) deteriorated. The new pads don't have a sheet of foam, but a detachable piece of cloth on an elastic frame. 

 Problem: *the new pads are visibly thinner than the old ones*, as if there is less filling material inside. This is especially obvious to the side that sits in front of the ears.

 Question: *does this negatively affect the sound (I especially think about not getting a proper seal) or the comfort?* If the answer might be "yes", I was thinking about keeping the old pads, cutting their sheet of foam and trying to fit in the new cloth instead, perhaps even without removing the old pads at all. What do you think? Is this possible / a good idea?

 (I know I could find out if the new pads are perfectly good by myself, but I'd rather avoid all the hassle of removing the pads 1-2 times, finding and buying some more double sided adhesive tape, etc.)

 Thanks!


----------



## Duggeh

I noticed this with a new set of 202 pads. I put it down to the different (shrunken) shape of the old pads and assumed they gradaully change over the years.


----------



## Don Quichotte

You mean, the new pads were thicker? In my case, the new pads are thinner, and I assume they could get thinner over the years by the filling getting compressed somehow, but not the opposite. Anyway, have you noticed a difference in sound or comfort?


----------



## spritzer

The new pads are a bit thinner but the cloth backing adds about 2mm to the over all height once it is installed so the end result is similar. I haven't heard any difference but then again I wasn't looking for it. 

 I meant to post this yesterday but the trolls were in the way. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Never mind that now but say hi to Papa... 











 I'm still using the stock Gold Aero 7308 (Amperex) input tubes but I've replaced the utterly terrible "Made in USSR" stock EL34's with some nice 00 XF2's. 

 Now for impressions, first off this amp runs hot... hotter then most amps ever made. After a couple of hours the top cover is at 63°C with an ambient temperature of 24°C. The rest of the chassis is at roughly 44°C so toasty indeed. It's not surprising given just how much power it consumes (200w+) but it still runs cooler then a BH. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The similarity in design to the Blue Hawaii design is quite startling given that Kevin Gilmore never saw one of these in the flesh (or the schematic) until I sent him this unit to look over. The amp is fully DC-coupled from input to output with current sources on top of current sources. This results in a very well lit interior due to all the LED's used. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The sound is also similar but the T2 is a bit lighter on bass given the lower standing power per tube (5W compared to the BHSE's 10W) but it's very lifelike and really shows off what the SR-007 can do. The soundstage is simply wast if the recording calls for it and voices have this presence which only the SR-007 can pull off with pin point accuracy. 

 The operation of the amp is pretty slick, all logic controlled/relay switched. The input section is a wall of relays on the back which take cares of the loop through and shorting the - phase to ground for SE operation. The amp also has a standby function which means the input selector is active with the amp section off. Press the power button and the amber light is lit for 40 seconds while the amp slowly steps up into operation mode. The tubes warm up for the first 30, then the HV sections light up and finally the output relays release . The amp is also equipped with a DC-servo which monitors the output can can shut it off if anything is wrong, similar to the one used in the 717. 

 This makes nearly all other headphone amps seem like cheap toys and it is quite astounding that Stax even made it in the first place. It sold for 468kYen back in 1995 and there isn't a chance Stax were breaking even at that price. Just shipping this beast costs a fortune at roughly 18kg for just the two boxes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It will be interesting to compare it to the BHSE once I get my unit plus the old style BH I'm working on (which has the same power level as the BHSE) and the ES-1 once I'm done working on it.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed this with a new set of 202 pads. I put it down to the different (shrunken) shape of the old pads and assumed they gradaully change over the years._

 


 I noticed the issue, too, and attributed it to the same phenomenon mentioned by Doug. Could be wrong, but the old pads appeared to me to have tightened up a bit, almost squeezing the padding outward toward the ears.


----------



## Rhinosaur

Thanks for the photos of the T2 Birgir, there don't seem to be many about. It certainly looks solid from the pictures - I especially love the internal shot. Is it the pictures or does the attenuator go from 0 to infinity?

 Edit: make that -0 to -infinity.


----------



## spritzer

There were probably 150 T2's made and it's -infinity to -0 to be exact.


----------



## gilency

Amazing pictures! Very impressive indeed.


----------



## edstrelow

I recently followed up a suggestion on the Mapleshade Audio site that you could apply both Progold (renamed DeoxitGold) and Silclear (a silver particle paste) on contacts together for better results. (they sell both)

 I liked Silclear in particular with Stax items because it seems to give a bass boost which alleviates the etch that sometimes is heard on Lambdas. Progold also increases signal levels but tends to bring out more treble.

 Applying both was a a major improvement over either alone. The sound was probably more neutral but a clearer and more dynamic across the frequency spectrum. My first though when I applied it to my 007A and plugged it into the Stax 717 was "BHSE!" i.e. it reminded me of the BHSE I had heard recently at Canjam.

 Now I am not going to say that it is as good as a BHSE but soundwise 
 moving in that direction and given the cost of the BHSE this is about as close as I am going to get to the BHSE in the foreseeable future. 

 Basically apply the Progold first with a small brush. It cleans the surface but you may also try a separate cleaner sold as Deoxit. The apply Silclear with a small stiff brush. With the Progold already on, the Silclear spreads better and doesn't clump up. You don't want any excess of this stuff falling off because it can cause shorts and I find that even small residue around contact seems to slightly impair sound quality.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried in a while. Maybe they're just focusing on dealers?_

 

Sadly, Yama's isn't responding to individuals or dealers at the moment.


----------



## gilency

That's funny. I bought an extension cable from them a few weeks ago.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently followed up a suggestion on the Mapleshade Audio site that you could apply both Progold (renamed DeoxitGold) and Silclear (a silver particle paste) on contacts together for better results. (they sell both)_

 

Interesting, as I've been pondering trying Silclear, or Van Den Hul's The Fluid. The DeoxitGold addition I hadn't thought of, but will consider as well.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new pads are a bit thinner but the cloth backing adds about 2mm to the over all height once it is installed so the end result is similar. I haven't heard any difference but then again I wasn't looking for it. _

 

Thanks and congrats on the T2!


----------



## Deadneddz

Its hard to tell if this stuff is just the standard "audiophile" bs.


----------



## n3rdling

Can somebody describe the physics behind such a product's effects?


----------



## Currawong

This is not the place for it. Try edstrelow's thread about it lest the mods have to edit this thread again.


----------



## green0153

T2 is simply a beautiful and complicated design, Dr. Takeshi made a masterwork.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I meant to post this yesterday but the trolls were in the way. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Never mind that now but say hi to Papa... 

Imageshack - img2329l - Uploaded by spritzer_stax
Imageshack - img2336i - Uploaded by spritzer_stax
Imageshack - img2332h - Uploaded by spritzer_stax_

 

Thanks for the pictures. The SRM-T2 sure looks stunning, and from what you write it seems to be quite nice sound wise as well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A shame new Stax (current company) did not take up its lead though, and gave us something on par to drive our SR-007s...


----------



## GuyDebord

Thats the one I want!!!! where do you get an SRM-T2 these days?
 Spritzer, how much do you want for it?
 Im so jealous!


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Spritzer, how much do you want for it?_

 

I wouldn't hold your breath on a quote, Guy. They sold new for as much as $10,000, and they're _considerably_ more now.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't hold your breath on a quote, Guy. They sold new for as much as $10,000, and they're considerably more now._


----------



## GuyDebord

BTW, Im done with the HD800's a friend wants to buy them and I think I will sell them to help me pay Spritzer for the T2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The hd800's never really involved me in the music, plus they look silly, oh well, Im happy for the O2's, I have begun to truly love them, I even dreamt about them.....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can somebody describe the physics behind such a product's effects?_

 

Silver is one of the best conducters. A Google of "silver conductivity" will bring a lot of references to that fact.

 I don't know much about Progold/Deoxit other than that it does indeed clean contacts which you can see when you put it on a dirty contact. It is not especially controversial in that role and lots of people in these forums seem to use it.

 As regards to whether or how either product enhances conductivity, obviously cleaning is pretty obvious but there are explanations on sites that sell them generally in the nature of improving the contact between surface of the plug and socket, filling in small, microscopic gaps and the like. "Silver conductivity," "cleaning" and "gap filling" work as plausible explanations for me as to how they could work. 

 One simple test non-audio test I have repeated several times is to take barely functioning batteries in say a flashlight, and treat the battery tips with either enhancer. This will usually bring the item back to operational life and keep it running a good deal longer without a battery change. In fact I regularly apply Progold or Silclear to batteries and dodgy contacts. I also find Progold very useful for fixing poorly running small guage (Z and T) model trains either by putting it on wheels or directly to the track. 

 Plus the cost isn't too high, about $10.00 for Progold and $30.00 for Silclear will buy you a life-time supply of each. 

 As regards sonic effects, all I can do is report what I hear and I like what I hear, especially with the Silclear/Progold mix and I think it is especially useful with the Stax products as I have noted. Whether you will even hear these effects with other, less resolving equipment, I cannot say. Bear in mind the caveat about Silclear cruding up. Progold is safer in that regard but I don't like its sonic effects as much.


----------



## spritzer

You'll have to search long and hard to find a T2, let alone one that's nearly NIB like this one. The price is not something I'll discuss but it is considerably more then my BHSE and well worth it for something this prestigious and rare. 

 I will sell it one day though since we've already started working on a DIY version with a better PSU which we can run even harder. There will never be an FS thread though and don't even both asking me about it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, Im done with the HD800's a friend wants to buy them and I think I will sell them to help me pay Spritzer for the T2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The hd800's never really involved me in the music, plus they look silly, oh well, Im happy for the O2's, I have begun to truly love them, I even dreamt about them....._

 

I though the balanced HD800 rig from Headroom that I heard at Canjam sounded surprisingly close to the 02/BHSE rig I also heard there, although I still prefered the stat phone. There is to me always a graininess to a dynamic, even the HD800 which was the best such phone I had ever heard.

 Did you try a balanced amp on the HD800. How would you chracaterize the the sonic differences between it and the 02.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I though the balanced HD800 rig from Headroom that I heard at Canjam sounded surprisingly close to the 02/BHSE rig I also heard there, although I still prefered the stat phone. There is to me always a graininess to a dynamic, even the HD800 which was the best such phone I had ever heard.

 Did you try a balanced amp on the HD800. How would you chracaterize the the sonic differences between it and the 02._

 

I guess it was the musical easiness and total transparency of the 007a's that won me over. The precise notes floating in the air around me, and the their flow from one to another until they culminate with the musical composition in ecstasy. Closing my eyes and imagining the naturalness of stings, saxes, flutes, percussions and vocals get me closer to my kharma 3.2fe's than any headphone Ive heard.

 With the HD800 is never like that, every time I listen to them is as if the sounds were fabricated, artificially rendered into extreme detail but non-involving, plus that grainess, I always know they are on my head, my brain works to hard to distinguish the detail and I can never forget about them. They are always there, and that bothers me. 

 Its the difference between hifi music and natural music, the hd800 try on precision makes them measurement instruments rather than musical instruments, for some this might be the goal, for me, I just want the headphones to disappear as much as they can and until now the 007's are the best I know... i guess followed by the k1000's

 By monday next week the hd800's are gone, I never tried them balanced, I dont think ill miss them, but I cant wait to try the BHSE and WES with the o2's.....


----------



## jigster

Just saw this on Japan Yahoo Auctions. Looks like a really really old piece of Stax gear. The seller says the model is SRA-7S, which is the first time I've come across it. Anybody seen anything like this before? Almost an antique if you ask me.

À°È÷ºÑ¤ß¡¦´°Æ°ÉÊ !!¡¡S t a x À½¡¡¿¿¶õ´É ¥ª¡¼¥ë¥É ¥×¥ê¥¢¥ó¥× - Yahoo!¥ª¡¼¥¯¥·¥ç¥ó


----------



## padam

Yes, it is the SRA-7S, probably based on the Stax SRX circuit like a few modern all-tube electrostatic amps. Here is a bit more info in Japanese:
STAX@SRA-7S‚Ìƒy[ƒW


----------



## spritzer

The SRA-7S and the SRX have nothing in common, totally different circuits.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Last night I've played for a couple of hours with the old and the new 303 pads (it's the new pads that I was complaining about a few days ago that are thinner, with less filling material inside, and come with a detachable piece of cloth on an elastic frame instead of the fixed sheet of foam of the older ones). I cut the foam sheet off the old pads and tried both sets of pads with and without the cloth. 

 I can say for certain that:

 1. The new pads have stronger bottom end and less upper midrange as well as less sparkle up top compared with the old ones. I'm talking about the pads themselves, the inner protection sheet was the same (the cloth). Some may like it, I thought it detracted a bit from the liveliness of the recording which is not a good thing in my system. I think the new pads might also be a tad more precise sounding, as if it was just a bit easier to differentiate between various sound and instruments - this might be only an illusion due to the slightly different tonal balance or, less likely, might be due to the driver being a tiny bit closer to the ear, I don't know. 

 2. The cloth has no effect on the bass, but the sound is less bright and a bit less detailed with them compared to no cloth at all. I was hoping their effect on the sound would not be audible, but it is. I am very curious, but I couldn't compare them with the old solution, i.e. the sheet of foam. My guess is the foam was somewhat in between these two situations (with and without cloth), which would be ideal in my system.

 I've decided to use the old pads and I'm still undecided whether I should just use the cloth pieces and be happy or experiment further with other materials more transparent than this cloth (perhaps nylon stockings, something like that, I don't know). Any suggestions?

 When reading this please take into account that I was very happy with the sound of my system before, including the tonal balance, perhaps I would have even liked a little more sparkle on top, but in a "normal" system with a more or less neutral source the new pads might well be preferable because of the reduction of the 303's well known midrange peakiness.


----------



## fraseyboy

Looks like I'm back in team Stax!

 Just scored some Lambda Normal's for $150USD. Pretty good deal?


----------



## SmellyGas

Anyone know where to buy a replacement headband for the SR-007 MK1? Mine's all jacked up.


----------



## Rhinosaur

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SmellyGas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know where to buy a replacement headband for the SR-007 MK1? Mine's all jacked up._

 

You could try getting in touch with your country's Stax distributor and enquire about spare parts. When I did this they passed me onto someone who orders them in. They might not be cheap though.

 Here's how to find the distributor:
Overseas Distributors


----------



## Tachikoma

Try EIFL instead, they usually charge less than the designated distributors. (The Aussie distributor wanted to charge me 3x the price EIFL charged me for my replacement O2 cable)


----------



## Don Quichotte

I got my pads from bluetin, perhaps they could help with the O2 headband too.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Speaking of pads, I did some further experiments with some very thin scarves made of gauze fabric (I hope I said it correctly into English). 3 slightly different materials resulted in more or less similar results: the sound is close to the one produced by the phones when there is nothing between the ears and the metal mesh but slightly worse in all terms: resolution, transparency, easiness... The tonal balance is almost identical, which is a bit too dry and light in my system, a bit tiring on the long term. Somewhat strange, it's less tiring with nothing between the ears and the metal mesh. 

 On the other hand, using the pieces of cloth that come with the new pads results in a greater loss in the above-mentioned terms but in a much mellower, fuller, more pleasing tonal balance. Now the sound is not tiring at all.The bass seems subjectively stronger and the treble weaker, very close to but I think somewhat darker than the original foam sheet. Sadly, there's a bit too little treble sparkle for me in this option. If I could only get some similar but thinner cloth made of the same type of fiber, that would be perfect. Any ideas, please?


----------



## SmellyGas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my pads from bluetin, perhaps they could help with the O2 headband too._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try EIFL instead, they usually charge less than the designated distributors. (The Aussie distributor wanted to charge me 3x the price EIFL charged me for my replacement O2 cable)_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rhinosaur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could try getting in touch with your country's Stax distributor and enquire about spare parts. When I did this they passed me onto someone who orders them in. They might not be cheap though._

 

Thanks, guys, for the tips. I'll check with Bluetin, EIFL, and some distributors in the U.S.


----------



## Duggeh

If all of the articulate and wonderful Stax thread residents could pop out of the safety of this zone and out into the badlands of head-fi nonsense for a minute, Stax needs a win against the glassy-eyed masses in the Sennheiser camp.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/hea...2/index84.html


----------



## gilency

Well said. nothing like the Stax sound. I will be buying me an SR-007 for Christmas and eventually will buy a better amplifier. 
 I listened to various set ups of HD800, including the balanced ones at HeadRoom. it was quiet and I was not disturbed. I really wasn't impressed and kept going back to the Stax phones; don't think I will be changing to dynamics any time soon. I do enjoy the Beyers to connect them to my digital piano when playing late and don't want to disturb my family and use my ES3X when by the pool or in bed. IEM's are great.
 But for pure enjoyment and pure sound, I am so glad I "discovered" Stax. Very glad I wen to CanJam!.
 I have been surprised at how comfortable the 404's are. On friday I listened for 4 hours non stop without any discomfort.


----------



## gilency

I have a question. I remember reading somewhere (Spritzer?) that there is a new or modified version of the SR-007 coming up by the end of the year. Anybody has any more information?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If all of the articulate and wonderful Stax thread residents could pop out of the safety of this zone and out into the badlands of head-fi nonsense for a minute, Stax needs a win against the glassy-eyed masses in the Sennheiser camp.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/hea...2/index84.html_

 

Tempted to vote Sennheiser just because the HD600 and HD800 can sing with a $1200 Woo or a $2500 ZDT, while the SR-007 need more than a $2500 GES (plus the Senn HE60 rock on the GES). At low to moderate the volumes the SR-007 are more refined albeit a little dark, although sometimes I prefer dark to being tilted up in the highs. In the end I decided to abstain.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The gear hounds will move onto other things. They have done so in the past and will do so again. I've seen so many FOTM here I can't count them any more so if you think your investment was worth it that's great but others will get burned. 
 ._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One of the reasons I'm not posting much in the Stax thread is because I now have what I like (SR-X, 003) and am content to wait for a good priced SRD-7 to complete it to where I want to be. I do think there is a bit of a feeding frenzy going on and someday there's going to be quite a bit of indigestion to deal with but so long as people understand what they are getting and are happy with current pricings that's fine. 

 I'm sure many are paying well over the odds through some sense of desperation as inflated prices seem the norm. I was having the same issues with the current K1000 love-fest. Luckily I managed to score mine at well below Head-fi prices. I might be daft but I'm not crazy. One day the Stax mania will subside and prices will return to more sane levels... and then I pounce. heheh_

 

The quotations are from 2007.
 I have been reading this thread. Quite interesting. Learned a lot. Also learned prices have not plunged as predicted (at least not yet). This old gear keeps getting more expensive!


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I was looking at bluetin for stax pads for my sr-lambda. I know the sr-202 model will fit the original sr-lambda. but is there another model that is superior and will still fit? is the 303 better than the 202? will the 404 fit? is it worth the bother, or should I just get new 202's for my lambdas? I've not found anyone comparing different pads really. couldnt find it at least.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The quotations are from 2007.
 I have been reading this thread. Quite interesting. Learned a lot. Also learned prices have not plunged as predicted (at least not yet). This old gear keeps getting more expensive! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Actually I think I see a decline for some Stax items, probably reflecting the bad economy. I have been trying to sell some gear over the last few weeks and aside from my own listings it looks like a lot of Stax items are going slowly and coming down. I am, for example seeing many SRM1Mk 2 amps going for about $300.00 or less when $400.00 and up was typical a year ago.

 I did sell my Koss 950, plus Stax adapter, but am still working on selling an SRM-3 plus Lambda Nova Classic. (PM me if interested.)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question. I remember reading somewhere (Spritzer?) that there is a new or modified version of the SR-007 coming up by the end of the year. Anybody has any more information?_

 

I haven't heard anything...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was looking at bluetin for stax pads for my sr-lambda. I know the sr-202 model will fit the original sr-lambda. but is there another model that is superior and will still fit? is the 303 better than the 202? will the 404 fit? is it worth the bother, or should I just get new 202's for my lambdas? I've not found anyone comparing different pads really. couldnt find it at least._

 

All the Lambda pads are the same size. The SR-202 are vinyl while the 303/404 use a material that breaths a bit and is more comfortable. Then there are the leather 404LE pads but they are rather expensive at 8k+ Yen.


----------



## Turko

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question. I remember reading somewhere (Spritzer?) that there is a new or modified version of the SR-007 coming up by the end of the year. Anybody has any more information?_

 

ıt can be sr-007 limited like sr-404


----------



## gilency

Thank You Ed. You have been around long enough to know if prices have changed. I guess nowadays is better to be the buyer than the seller then.
 Thank You Spritzer for correcting my misinformation.
 I will wait to buy the SR-007 by Christmas then. Hopefully I will find an Mk1 then.


----------



## Pyriel0

Can anyone here tell me approximately where an srd-7(reg or mkII) falls into place sound quality wise(it would be driven by the F1) with the stax amps please?

 I have been wanting to listen to a stax setup but I don't have the money for one of the top end amps. Would one of the later srd's do well or will it just be a waste of time? 

 I have read that the top end amps drive the omega's a bit better. How much of a difference is there and would it be good enough for the other(lesser than omega) headphones?


----------



## Duggeh

Dudes, really. Chime in on the headphone elimination. I want to have a chance to be cheap and smug at Stax winning. It's very close but gradaully bad for Stax, so even just Birgir debasing himself for a crappy thread might turn the voting tide.

 Viv Le Stax!


----------



## The Monkey

Doug's right. Let's put a stop to that nonsense.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/hea...2/index84.html


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tempted to vote Sennheiser just because the HD600 and HD800 can sing with a $1200 Woo or a $2500 ZDT, while the SR-007 need more than a $2500 GES (plus the Senn HE60 rock on the GES). At low to moderate the volumes the SR-007 are more refined albeit a little dark, although sometimes I prefer dark to being tilted up in the highs. In the end I decided to abstain._

 

Traitor.


----------



## kintsaki

It is only a game with many 2009'ers, we could also adopt a generous gracious welcome attotude and let them win.
 Senns are soothing Staxen are involving.


----------



## gilency

Whoever votes their Staxes out (they sound bad!) please send them to me.


----------



## n3rdling

Looks like Stax wins


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Traitor._

 

Am not.


----------



## GuyDebord

Celebration, a pleasant morning surprise 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 well done Duggeh!


----------



## cantsleep

omega has won for stax


----------



## Bullseye

Well, gonna post here as the thread I created on the amp forum didn't get too much attention.

 This question is going for Euopean Head-Fiers with the Basic STAX system bought from Japan.

  Quote:


 Well, I am on the verge of getting the Stax Basis system, with the SRM-252A driver unit.

 I will be buying it from japan, and it comes with a 100V power adapter.
 I have read that you can use a power adaptor of 12V >400mA to power it.

 So, for any european head-fier that has this unit, what power adaptor do you use? I was told by the guys from bluetin that they usually sell theirs with a 12V 1000mA (1A)

 With the required polarity.

 I'd like to get one with the 2 plug european type (not the UK type) and with the termination that would fit the SRM252A unit. (Don't know what is its size). 
 

 Quote:


 I was speaking about something like this, but 2 pin european plug.

Shop selling NoBrand ASK-DC5-9-12v AC Adapter

 Or if someone knows what the size of the plug is (in mm) I could also buy it knowing that. 
 

Hope the european head-fiers help me with this one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The thread is this one: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...7/#post5960706


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cantsleep* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_omega has won for stax
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, it wasn't just the Omega for some of us - I voted Stax because there are more good sounding Staxen out there (and I own) than Sennheisers.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Doug's right. Let's put a stop to that nonsense.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/hea...2/index84.html_

 

..and so they did! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 With all those great sounding Stax models out there it is no surprise it took the win over Sennheiser, imo. 
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Drake22* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=large]*WINNER:*[/size]

[size=xx-large]*STAX*[/size]_


----------



## alcyst

presumably a pretty small group;

 - question is going for Euopean Head-Fiers with the Basic STAX system bought from Japan - 

 and what is the point?


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alcyst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_presumably a pretty small group;

 - question is going for Euopean Head-Fiers with the Basic STAX system bought from Japan - 

 and what is the point?_

 

Point is to find an appropriate power supply, it would seem. An apt question, and while the audience is indeed likely small, this is where to find them. Best of luck!


----------



## alcyst

Uh, er, yeah. I had assumed it was being bought new. Could be any 1 of many reasons for bringing it in this way.

 I did a google search and came up with some results. Since you want a Euro style 2 pin plug I did the search on google.fr and google.de. I have found out the hard way that google seem to keep their different language sets very seperate.

 I did come up with a;

 Shure PS21E - Netzteil (ehemals PS20E)

 which is described as;
 # Betriebsspannung: 100-240V AC, 50.60 Hz
 # Output: 12V DC, 400mA

 website link is audiopalace dot de; Shure PS21E - Netzteil (ehemals PS20E) - AudioPalace.

 By the way Nintendo pull this trick as a way of discouraging people from buying a (much cheaper) DS in North America, the wall wart is 100v only, rather than the far more normal 100V-240V. Screw 'em.


----------



## alcyst

did another bit of searching, that Shure model number seems to be pretty freely available, probably powers some of their wireless gear.

 I know in the UK Maplin would sell a 12V 400Ma adaptor (though an audio purist might be uneasy mixing a Maplin product with Stax). Whatever Euro country you will be in will have some sort of mass market electronics retailer that will have that adaptor.

 Unless the polarity is odd...


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alcyst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_did another bit of searching, that Shure model number seems to be pretty freely available, probably powers some of their wireless gear.

 I know in the UK Maplin would sell a 12V 400Ma adaptor (though an audio purist might be uneasy mixing a Maplin product with Stax). Whatever Euro country you will be in will have some sort of mass market electronics retailer that will have that adaptor.

 Unless the polarity is odd..._

 

Hey there!

 Thanks for the help.

 The polarity of the driver unit is as shown here:




 Which is usually the other way around for Europe.

 The problem is that if I want to buy the adapter from the guys I will be getting the unit from, they say it would cost 65$, or ~$20 (but the product is more expensive that way).

 One I found on ebay is this one, which has a polarity switch and it is very cheap. The problem is that I don't know if the jacks will fit the headphone amp. (And there are 4 to choose) It has 500mA. It costs 13€ shipped or $18 shipped.









 Do you think this will serve for my purposes?

 EDIT: It sets me back a bit because it looks fragile, not because I think it will give worst SQ.


 EDIT2: I have found this one as well, but I am not sure if the plug of the driver unit is 2.1mm Output Connector. *Damn, forgot about polarity...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-1000mA-1A-...d=p3911.c0.m14

 Can anyone check what is the size for the srm252a unit?

 EDIT3: Well, it seems that doing a bigger search I have found better options. Even so the question still remains for what size is the driver's unit.

 I found this one with polarity switch as well.
http://www.apogeekits.com/ac_adapter_12vdc_eu.htm


----------



## kh6idf

What I would do is cut off the plug from the Stax adapter along with a short length of wire, and also cut the plug off your new adapter, then solder the Stax wire/plug to the new adapter (being sure to observe correct polarity). If heat shrink tubing is used over each wire, then an additional layer of heat shrink is put over the joint covering both wires it ends up being durable and looks decent.

 If you don't have a soldering iron & heat gun for the tubing maybe a nearby head-fier could help out.


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I would do is cut off the plug from the Stax adapter along with a short length of wire, and also cut the plug off your new adapter, then solder the Stax wire/plug to the new adapter (being sure to observe correct polarity). If heat shrink tubing is used over each wire, then an additional layer of heat shrink is put over the joint covering both wires it ends up being durable and looks decent.

 If you don't have a soldering iron & heat gun for the tubing maybe a nearby head-fier could help out._

 

Good idea. I have the soldering iron and heat gun. I could do that. The STAX system would come with the power adapter, so it could be a solution. 

 Even so, knowing the diameter of the plug would be of great help


----------



## alcyst

Doh

 "cut off the plug from the Stax adapter along with a short length of wire, and also cut the plug off your new adapter,"

 even a bit of duct tape in a squeeze. Nice one kh6idf.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I still think "negative center" is a bad idea and wonder why Stax chose that, because if you unplug the amp and leave the adapter plugged into the wall then it is easier to short out the plug when the hot outside barrel touches something that shares a ground with the adapter.


----------



## deacongreg

I`ve heard that Stax has been pulling out from dealers. Are they solvent? I know the one dealer here in NY, Long Island, told me that he has no inventory for me to check, and has not heard from them in some time.

 After the reputation they have built, this is said. I also read back in January they finally made a new inexpensive (for them!!) headphone, the Lambda Nova Basic System for $399.95. Never thought I would see that.

 So, what gives with them?


----------



## SmellyGas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still think "negative center" is a bad idea and wonder why Stax chose that, because if you unplug the amp and leave the adapter plugged into the wall then it is easier to short out the plug when the hot outside barrel touches something that shares a ground with the adapter._

 

No, Larry. The hot outside barrel belongs to the secondary side of the transformer, and the earth ground is on the primary side. They are both electrically isolated because of the transformer. The only way to short out out the plug is to connect the outside barrel to the inside barrel....but if this were the case, it really wouldn't matter if the outside barrel was "hot" or DC ground.

 But what do I know. I'm just a "troll," remember?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SmellyGas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, Larry. The hot outside barrel belongs to the secondary side of the transformer, and the earth ground is on the primary side. They are both electrically isolated because of the transformer. The only way to short out out the plug is to connect the outside barrel to the inside barrel....but if this were the case, it really wouldn't matter if the outside barrel was "hot" or DC ground.

 But what do I know. I'm just a "troll," remember?_

 

my my.. what a snip..


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deacongreg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I`ve heard that Stax has been pulling out from dealers. Are they solvent? I know the one dealer here in NY, Long Island, told me that he has no inventory for me to check, and has not heard from them in some time.

 After the reputation they have built, this is said. I also read back in January they finally made a new inexpensive (for them!!) headphone, the Lambda Nova Basic System for $399.95. Never thought I would see that.

 So, what gives with them?_

 

There's a lot of weird here.

 First off, the Lambda Nova Basic system is not new. It's already been produced and replaced by the modern Lambda SR-202 system. 

 Second, Stax already a produces an inexpensive system, the SR-001Mk2. It's $300 with a US warranty, which is always more expensive for Stax.

 Third, the reputation they have built with their products is exemplary, but their reputation as a business is not so -- they already went bankrupt once, and the modern Stax products are produced by a company purchased from the ashes of the former. It is every bit as good as the former, as the O2 will attest, but a different company nonetheless.

 Fourth, if a distributor had no product to show you, it was because they failed to stock anything, not because Stax is insolvent. These are niche products, and they're best heard at enthusiast venues.

 Really, it was just weird because your post seemed like it was read from a 10-year-old time capsule


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SmellyGas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, Larry. The hot outside barrel belongs to the secondary side of the transformer, and the earth ground is on the primary side. They are both electrically isolated because of the transformer. The only way to short out out the plug is to connect the outside barrel to the inside barrel....but if this were the case, it really wouldn't matter if the outside barrel was "hot" or DC ground.

 But what do I know. I'm just a "troll," remember?_

 

Okay, well thanks anyway. At least you have proof that I haven't felt the need to hit the ignore button yet, since you can be useful too.


----------



## spritzer

Stax is going strong but I do have some concerns about the US distributor. 

 The Lambda Nova was phased out in 1999 and as a system has been replaced twice already (SRS-2020 and SRS-2050).


----------



## edstrelow

Re: US distributer, again I find I cannot get Yamasinc to pick up the phone or respond to a message. Also they were no-shows at the LA Canjam even though they are only about 30 miles away.


----------



## SmellyGas

I think Stax has done a lousy job marketing their products in the U.S. They have very few online retailers (most are in Japan), and their B&M store network is not very impressive. I don't recall seeing ads in audio magazines, and they haven't had a product review article in a while. Even people somewhat familiar with headphones equate Stax with ultra-expensive high-end stuff, and aren't aware that there are lower price offerings from the company. There is no buzz about Stax products like there is for Sennheiser and Grado stuff. Perhaps this is by design. Perhaps not.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SmellyGas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is no buzz about Stax products like there is for Sennheiser and Grado stuff. Perhaps this is by design. Perhaps not._

 

I wonder if their advertising efforts are directed more towards the local market than the international - aka, perhaps there's more visibility to Stax products in Japan.


----------



## kh6idf

As a new Stax owner (SRS-2050II - not purchased new though), I agree that they make a unique and excellent product. Even this entry level set is amazing to me. I want to write a proper review after another week or so of listening. I didn't find too many reviews of the 2050 on the internet when I was researching them (I think I found 2) but these deserve more publicity!


----------



## alcyst

In fairness, the high-end audio industry is a tough business, pretty much a cottage industry of artisans. Many companies owe their existance to the drive of one indiviudal, and very few get to be big enough to have a secure long-term existance. Think of the all the brands out there, and the many that no longer exist. And whatever is true of the manufacturers is true of the distributors and agents. Enjoy the sound, it's not like many tech and auto products where you need the manufacturer to stay in existance so that you can keep your device operating.

 kh6idf, just thinking, you might also try a Euro-land distributor/retailer of Stax to see if they have a recommendation (or even a spare) wall wart lying around;

http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/Overseas.html


----------



## kh6idf

It wasn't me looking for the European adapter, it was Bullseye, but I'm sure he will read your suggestion.


----------



## Currawong

I think new stax gear is big in japan and Germany but maybe less so elsewhere. I could be wrong about this but it is the impression i get from eBay. If head-fi is anything to go by, then the rest of the world focusses on used Stax gear. I also wouldn't be surprised if Stax are reluctant to try and push harder into foregn markets because of the risks involved.


----------



## GuyDebord

STAX in western Europe isnt that badly distributed and talked about, especially, Germany, France, Switzerland and NL, possibly Scandinavia. The market here is very restrictive as it is expensive to independently import stuff from Japan. The distributors together with european policy here have done a good job of protecting the local market from imports, so dealers arent that afraid of carrying them. The USA is a wild wild west compared to here, I dont know how STAX allows japanese sellers to post in ebay and sell in the USA, this hurts american dealers and a bit the reputation of the maker.


----------



## Bullseye

Well, I just called the STAX distributor in my country and he was very kind. He told me that I could get the adapter in any electronics store and that they didn't ask for the STAX adapter as any adapter with the correct polarity could be used. 

 Then I think I will just go with the unit to the electronics shop and get one that fits correctly. 
 My B-day is tomorrow, but I still need to save up more money to get it.

 I just asked the dealer also what is the price in my country for the 2050II basic system and he said 817€ when I can get it from Japan at 360€ shipped + taxes.


----------



## krmathis

How I see it is that Stax' products are/were priced too high outside Japan.
 I understand that the distributors/dealers have to earn money, provide warranty, support, and such. But still...

 Two examples:
 * The Stax O2 system (SR-007 and SRM-007t) retailed at NOK 46,000 (USD 7,600) over here. While the same system could be bought for 1/2 the price when imported from Japan (including shipping, VAT, ...).
 * The Stax 4070 retailed at NOK 22,000 (USD 3,600) over here, while I bought mine for less than USD 2,000 from Japan (including shipping, VAT, ...).

 Stay competitive on price and people may get their eyes up for their products. That goes for their entire line-up, and not just the most expensive ones.
 Benefitting Stax as a brand, and most probably also their distributors/dealers.


----------



## Bullseye

^That is a big ass difference...

 No wonder loads of people escape electrostatic headphones when they hear that price.


----------



## moonboy403

That's why many of us go for used and vintage Stax.


----------



## Sherwood

I bought the first "new" piece of gear I've ever purchased for this hobby 1 month ago. That European price is absolutely ridiculous, though. Stax would do well to look into a significantly better dealer network, if only to ensure their commercial viability that I may enjoy many more years of excellent Stax products.


----------



## krmathis

Unresponsive forum = double-post...


----------



## krmathis

Just dropped by the Stax website and were welcomed by the picture of a new tube amplifier.
 The SRM-600 Limited, which seem to be meant paired with the SR-404 Limited.

 Found no information on their English page, but the Japanese one link to a pdf with further info.
http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/JP/SRM600L...1000pix-ss.pdf








 Sorry if this has been posted already. In that case I have totally missed out of it...


----------



## Victor Chew

Looks like a tube hybrid with a voltage of 340Vrms.


----------



## gilency

Sure would like to know how it compares with the current and vintage amps. I am sure nobody has listened to it yet, but based on specs, where would it be amongst other Stax amps?


----------



## Currawong

Meh! I guess I'm going to have to drive by the Stax dealer on the way to work and see if they have one. They have the 4040 rig, so I might be able to compare.


----------



## Tachikoma

Well it uses a nice tube so it might sound good


----------



## Bullseye

Hey guys, is 210€ plus shipping (or around $300 + shipping) a good price for the SRM-1 MKII?


----------



## edstrelow

Seems to be about the current rate. Of course it depends on the condition of the unit and its model , i.e. A. B.or C. The B and C's might be worth a bit more than the A's although I doubt you will hear any difference. I certainly can't tell the differece between my A and B models.


----------



## Bullseye

Has anyone had any SRM1-MKII fail or needed to be repaired?They are old units, so who knows what might happen.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Victor Chew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like a tube hybrid with a voltage of 340Vrms._

 

It's probably the T1 circuit slightly revamped but finally fitted with tubes that can make it shine. The 6CG7 can only handle 300V Max while the ECC99 can take 400V Max so the amp shouldn't be as compressed at higher volume levels.


----------



## Michgelsen

Just curious, has anyone of you ever heard one of your 'stats arc? What does it sound like?


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, has anyone of you ever heard one of your 'stats arc? What does it sound like?_

 

i haven't heard any of my stat headphones arc yet, but i have heard my quad esl's arc, and the sound somewhat reminded me of tearing cloth


----------



## El_Doug

double post


----------



## El_Doug

so my SR-Ω's are just sitting here, waiting for my WES to arrive... 6 more weeks or so...

 this is killing me


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i haven't heard any of my stat headphones arc yet, but i have heard my quad esl's arc, and the sound somewhat reminded me of tearing cloth 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Is it kind of cool, or more like "What the #$%*! Turn that off!"?


----------



## les_garten

I had some spiders learn the hard way on my Martin Logans. Sounds like a Bug Zapper!


----------



## kh6idf

I'll jump into this thread now that I'm a Stax owner. I just acquired the SRS-2050II system purchased used from another head-fier. 

 I have a question about the sr-202 and other lambda phones. When I press lightly on the earcup, or even move my head side to side, I get this noise that sounds like what you would hear if you were inhaling/exhaling into a cellophane bag. I'm sure it is the inner seals flexing with the pressure and it does it on both sides. Is this a normal noise? It only does it if I press (or release) lightly on the earcup or move my head in a way that causes some slight shifting or pressure on the earcup. It is slightly annoying but can be avoided by sitting still.

 I am still getting used to the sound, on some recordings it's very good and with others it easily shows what is wrong. Could use a little more authority in the bass, but maybe this is a source limitation or the 252II amp. The transparency is of course excellent.

 If I could eliminate this flexing noise and add some authority to the lower midrange/bass it would be perfect (I know - the answer is probably to move up the line!)


----------



## Duggeh

The SR-202 improves most satisfactory when one applies a dose of SRM-717. You won't get much extra bass, and the bass is never going to be an HD650 *Thwomp* 

 As for eliminating that Stax Fart. Stop pushing the headphones into your head. If it's happening when you do something as trivial as turning your head, i'd say thats rather odd. I had to push quite firmly and quickly to instigate the noise. The SR-007 is much more prone to the noise. Possibly because of a superior seal.


----------



## kh6idf

It's not a loud noise, it's more like just flexing a piece of cellophane next to my ear. But it sounds like this is normal so I will just avoid applying any pressure to the sides of the earcups and I should be fine.

 I will try the sr-202 with better amplification if I get the chance. Perhaps someone at the Houston meet in October will have something better than the srm-252II, although it is not a bad amp at all from what I can hear.


----------



## Currawong

Could be the membrane has become a bit brittle. My SR-5NBs have this problem, and it was not trivial, as the membrane was sticking to the covers over the drivers and killing the bass. Some cleaning fixed that. Not sure if anything can be done to fix worn membranes though.

 If you want bass whomp, a 007t with Herbies Tube Dampers, or a 717 will give that.


----------



## kh6idf

I doubt if the membrane is worn or brittle - the SRS-2050II system is still fairly new - I mean they haven't been selling them for very many years. They do seem a bit bass-shy but not overly so. The sounds seems to match the descriptions I read here. When there is a recording with good bass, I can hear it and the bass extends pretty deep, but it lacks the impact I get with dynamic phones.

 I don't think the noise I'm hearing is the electrostatic 'fart' where the diaphragm touches the stator. It's just the sound of cellophane rustling as the air pressure changes slightly - I wondered if everyone else gets this same noise.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt if the membrane is worn or brittle - the SRS-2050II system is still fairly new - I mean they haven't been selling them for very many years. They do seem a bit bass-shy but not overly so. The sounds seems to match the descriptions I read here. When there is a recording with good bass, I can hear it and the bass extends pretty deep, but it lacks the impact I get with dynamic phones.

 I don't think the noise I'm hearing is the electrostatic 'fart' where the diaphragm touches the stator. It's just the sound of cellophane rustling as the air pressure changes slightly - I wondered if everyone else gets this same noise._

 

Could be dust cover on the inside. A while ago I got an old Lambda Signature that did this and it turned out that the previous owner had pushed the inner screen in, i.e. towards the stator, presumably to give his big ears more space. I was able to pull the screens back without too much trouble. Possibly you might pull the earpads off, the are just stuck on, to see if there is something like this visible.


----------



## kh6idf

If I pull the pads off would I be able to stick them back on or would I need a new piece of double stick tape?


----------



## fraseyboy

Well my new Lambda's arrived today.

 There appears to be a pretty extreme channel imbalance. L is MUCH louder than R. Is there anything that can be done apart from just adjusting the balance on the player?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well my new Lambda's arrived today.

 There appears to be a pretty extreme channel imbalance. L is MUCH louder than R. Is there anything that can be done apart from just adjusting the balance on the player?_

 

How long have you had them plugged in and running. Sometimes if unused for a while, running them for a few hours will fix it, and sometimes not. If not, you could try discharging them with a thumb over the pins on the plug, and charge them up again and see if they charge up better. And, are you sure the volume knob is set to be balanced from the start?


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How long have you had them plugged in and running. Sometimes if unused for a while, running them for a few hours will fix it, and sometimes not. If not, you could try discharging them with a thumb over the pins on the plug, and charge them up again and see if they charge up better. And, are you sure the volume knob is set to be balanced from the start?_

 

I've only had them plugged in for two White Stripes tracks. I think the seller hasn't used them for a long while so hopefully that's the issue and they'll settle down eventually. 

 They're sounding amazing so far, even with the imbalance.


----------



## fraseyboy

Ok this is weird...

 When I tilt my Lambda's on their side and both channels fade out. The right channel (which is already quieter) makes a small crackling sound. Then when I turn them upright again, they go back to normal.

 What?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok this is weird...

 When I tilt my Lambda's on their side and both channels fade out. The right channel (which is already quieter) makes a small crackling sound. Then when I turn them upright again, they go back to normal.

 What?_

 

Make sure your hair is dry. Sometimes that leads to weird things like this.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make sure your hair is dry. Sometimes that leads to weird things like this._

 

This happens even when they're not on my head like when I put them down on their side on my desk. If they're upright on a stand they work fine. Also, they appear to only cut out when tilted in one direction.

 It's probably also worth noting that they don't fade out to nothing, just to very very very quiet. There's also a few speckles of dirt or something on that wire thing where the drivers should be (not familiar with the electrostatic anatomy). Could this be affecting them somehow?

 Edit: When I tilt them forwards it also happens. The weird thing is, if I get them at just the right angle (slightly to the left) the right channel becomes almost as loud as the left, but if I tilt them just a little further to the left the right channel goes 'pop' and stops, and the left channel fades out gradually. None of this happens if I tilt them to the right or backwards. Weird!


----------



## Bullseye

kh6idf how much you payed for the basic unit? 
 Are they comfortable to wear for long periods of time?


----------



## Oublie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This happens even when they're not on my head like when I put them down on their side on my desk. If they're upright on a stand they work fine. Also, they appear to only cut out when tilted in one direction.

 It's probably also worth noting that they don't fade out to nothing, just to very very very quiet. There's also a few speckles of dirt or something on that wire thing where the drivers should be (not familiar with the electrostatic anatomy). Could this be affecting them somehow?

 Edit: When I tilt them forwards it also happens. The weird thing is, if I get them at just the right angle (slightly to the left) the right channel becomes almost as loud as the left, but if I tilt them just a little further to the left the right channel goes 'pop' and stops, and the left channel fades out gradually. None of this happens if I tilt them to the right or backwards. Weird!_

 

Sounds like it could be a loose bias wire causing this to happen.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could be the membrane has become a bit brittle. My SR-5NBs have this problem, and it was not trivial, as the membrane was sticking to the covers over the drivers and killing the bass. Some cleaning fixed that. Not sure if anything can be done to fix worn membranes though._

 

Mylar doesn't wear out or loose its tension unless it is exposed to direct sunlight over a long period of time. The membranes on my old SR-1 were still tight as a drum being made in the mid 60's.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This happens even when they're not on my head like when I put them down on their side on my desk. If they're upright on a stand they work fine. Also, they appear to only cut out when tilted in one direction.

 It's probably also worth noting that they don't fade out to nothing, just to very very very quiet. There's also a few speckles of dirt or something on that wire thing where the drivers should be (not familiar with the electrostatic anatomy). Could this be affecting them somehow?

 Edit: When I tilt them forwards it also happens. The weird thing is, if I get them at just the right angle (slightly to the left) the right channel becomes almost as loud as the left, but if I tilt them just a little further to the left the right channel goes 'pop' and stops, and the left channel fades out gradually. None of this happens if I tilt them to the right or backwards. Weird!_

 

Try holding your head still and just manipulate the wire and see what happens.

 .


----------



## kh6idf

Bullseye - I paid $430 including shipping.

 They are very comfortable unless the room temperature is too warm, then my ears sweat and I have to remove them every 10-15 minutes. But since we have air conditioning (this is Houston - air conditioning is not optional) it is usually not a problem.

 Other than the sweating issue, there are no other comfort problems. They are light weight and fit over my ears well. My ears don't feel any contact from the foam inside. I do have to use a small folded towel on the top of my head under the headband because I can not adjust the headband to a small enough size. It almost fits but not quite - feels like they are hanging on my ears. Using the towel under the headband give me some room for adjustment so I am not on the smallest setting.


----------



## Bullseye

Thanks for the comment. 

 I also have a small head, and some HPs stay a bit loose, even at the smallest setting.

 About the room temperature being too warm it just happens with almost every HP I have. 

 Think I am going to pull the trigger on the 2050A from Japan. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bullseye - I paid $430 including shipping.

 They are very comfortable unless the room temperature is too warm, then my ears sweat and I have to remove them every 10-15 minutes. But since we have air conditioning (this is Houston - air conditioning is not optional) it is usually not a problem.

 Other than the sweating issue, there are no other comfort problems. They are light weight and fit over my ears well. My ears don't feel any contact from the foam inside. I do have to use a small folded towel on the top of my head under the headband because I can not adjust the headband to a small enough size. It almost fits but not quite - feels like they are hanging on my ears. Using the towel under the headband give me some room for adjustment so I am not on the smallest setting._


----------



## kh6idf

I was going to order a new set from Japan when this used one came up at about a $100 savings. 

 I will be interested to read your impressions when your new 2050a set arrives. There seems to be an adjustment period where you get used to the sound (a different sound from dynamic phones), but then you hear a particular recording that sounds SO good it convinces you that you have made the right choice. 

 Last night I discovered they work well at low volume also. The frequency balance doesn't seem to suffer very much as the volume is turned down.


 I look forward to doing some more listening later tonight...


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try holding your head still and just manipulate the wire and see what happens.

 ._

 

No matter how much I move the cable, it doesn't make any difference at all. It seems to only respond to physical movement. Hmmm.

 Furthermore, if I place them flat on my desk then hit it in a certain way, they come on for a few seconds and sometimes fade out shortly after while other times they keep functioning until I hit the desk again. It is rather comical but also very annoying.

 Edit: So I took the offending earspeaker apart. The damping material and foam on the back of the cup had kinda disintegrated. Is it that bad if I just remove this? All the wires seemed pretty intact, although one of them had a bit of fluff on it. There's also some black marks on the inside of the 'driver' which I'm a bit worried about. Pics:







 Is there anything here which could cause what I'm describing?

 Edit2: Ok, so I think I've found my problem. The two halves of the driver on the right side don't seem to be stuck together, whereas they are on the left. I think when I tilt them, the two sides come apart and the sound stops. Should I stick them together with tape or is there some other method? Or are they meant to be unconnected?


----------



## Tachikoma

So the glue has disintegrated? o_O I'd tape it until Spritzer comes up with a better solution. (probably involving re-gluing the drivers)


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the glue has disintegrated? o_O I'd tape it until Spritzer comes up with a better solution. (probably involving re-gluing the drivers)_

 

Looks like it has. Here's a pic:






 Edit: So I tried taping them in place. I used three pieces of black electrical tape.

 It seems to have fixed it! No longer do movements result in sound cutting out. No longer is the right channel quieter than the left. And they sound damn good.

 The only issue is the right channel (the one I fixed with tape) crackles quiet violently with the slightest movement. I presume a more permanent method of fixing (glue) would remedy this.


----------



## manaox2

You get even microscopic dust inside any of those drivers and, well, you are going to have another problem (squealing permanently or with the slightest movement), watch out for that if you take them apart again.


----------



## edstrelow

I split a driver like this once after a physical altercation with the headphones. I glued them back together with superglue and it more or less worked but gradually the sound faded out. I supect the gluing failed. I finally had new drivers installed. Actually since it was a low bias Sigma, I had it remade as a Sigma pro at the Stax factory. 

 I hope yours works better. I would use a dustblower spray can or vacuum cleaner to get all the crap out of the driver before gluing the pieces back together. You should inspect the diaphragm to make sure there are no holes due to arcing. The black marks look suspicious.


----------



## Tachikoma

IME, a weak USB-powered vacuum cleaner is usually enough. A can of compressed air might work but I don't know if the membranes will like it. To clean the membrane, use some PVC wrap to rub it, carefully.

 I just don't understand why Stax had to use glue :/ Whats wrong with having a few more screws?


----------



## spritzer

Compressed air is a terrible idea and a good way to tear the membrane to shreds. I'd just leave it as it is and hope that no contaminants have entered the driver. 

 Given the way these drivers are designed it would be pretty hard to fix them with screws like the HE60 drivers are assembled for instance. The glue Stax used is very strong but you have to use so little so that the drivers aren't misaligned that they can fall apart.


----------



## fraseyboy

Closeup of the black marks. I can't see any holes.

 Now where did I put my USB vacuum cleaner...

 There doesn't appear to be any squealing, so I don't think dust is caught on there. I blew it out with one of those camera things that you squeeze to blow. There's just tiny little buzzing/crackling noises when I move the slightest bit. They're not that bad tbh. The music normally drowns them out anyway. 

 I'll try glueing them instead of taping them just as soon as I find some glue... Any particular sort of glue I should be using?


----------



## bjarnetv

it sounds to me like there is somehing making the drivers arch; probably dust.
 as others have already said, i would try gently blowing away any dust on the mylar, and glue the stators on properly. 
 if this doesnt help, the mylar has probably been damaged, and needs to be replaced.
 i'm not sure how thick the mylar is on the _normal bias lambda_, or if its heat treated, but tentioning new mylar is surprisingly simple, and shouldnt be too much of a problem if you can find the original specifications.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll try glueing them instead of taping them just as soon as I find some glue... Any particular sort of glue I should be using?_

 

epoxy?


----------



## spritzer

Use polyurethane and let it cure for at least 24 hours. You also have to remove every last trace of the old glue and use a very thing amount of the new glue since a fraction of a millimeter can change the sensitivity of the driver. 

 Ohh and I wouldn't try to replace the mylar. There is a lot more to it then just stretching it out on a flat surface and hitting it with a heatgun.


----------



## fraseyboy

Ok... Polyurethane glue?

 What's the best way to remove the old glue without damaging the mylar? It seems pretty hard....


----------



## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ohh and I wouldn't try to replace the mylar. There is a lot more to it then just stretching it out on a flat surface and hitting it with a heatgun._

 

just curious, but do you know if the mylar on stax phones is streched out to a certain tension before glueing, and in that case how much?

 i have some mylar left over after restoring some esl63 panels, and a spare float frame in need of some homemade drivers


----------



## spritzer

Mylar needs to be pre-stretched, glued and then treated by a certain heat cycle. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok... Polyurethane glue?

 What's the best way to remove the old glue without damaging the mylar? It seems pretty hard...._

 

Yup and I used a flat razor blade plus a lot of patience.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup and I used a flat razor blade plus a lot of patience._

 

Well I think I managed to remove most of the glue.

 Before I glue them back again, is there a better way to remove dust from the Mylar than blowing it or using a USB vacuum cleaner? I can still see small particles of dust which are not moved by blowing. Would it be ok to wipe it with a microfibre cleaning cloth?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I think I managed to remove most of the glue.

 Before I glue them back again, is there a better way to remove dust from the Mylar than blowing it or using a USB vacuum cleaner? I can still see small particles of dust which are not moved by blowing. Would it be ok to wipe it with a microfibre cleaning cloth?_

 

I have a bunch of Martin Logans and need to clean them one pair of them up(Monoliths). I'm having some difficulty getting them disassembled presently. What the ML guys do is put the panels in the shower and basically hose them off.

 I'm not suggesting that, it will be interesting to see what Spritzer says. I also have no idea what you have in your hands. I don't think I would be using a cloth though.


----------



## spritzer

I would use a fine brush designed to clean lenses to move the particles.


----------



## Dinan

Stax male and female plugs needed! 

 I have searched around both STAX threads and several others and I am still unclear as to where the best place to get STAX plugs is. 

 So...where can I order the best quality (cosmetic and build) male and female 5 pin (or 6 pin and I will pull the center pin) plugs to build an HE-60 to STAX adaptor plug? 

 Thanks for any help!


----------



## krmathis

Unresponsive forum = double post...


----------



## krmathis

Dinan. These seems to be quite popular.
 About the "best" place to get them I do not know, as I have not bought from them...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Plugs and socket compatible with Stax gear here:
 Socket: WPI - 78-S6S - Allied Electronics
 Plug: WPI - 86-71-6S - Allied Electronics

 Pro bias (580v) = 5 Pin (center pin not in use)
 Normal bias (230 / 200v) = 6 pin_


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dinan. These seems to be quite popular.
 About the "best" place to get them I do not know, as I have not bought from them..._

 

Thanks! I feel like an idiot because I kept stumbling over the male plug and that it was the wrong one. 

 Does anyone know if there is a rear cap or boot available for these plugs as heatshrink is not the prettiest way to do things?!


----------



## fraseyboy

Well I glued my Lambda driver halves back together again...

 The good news is they produce sound (although it appears it may be the TINIEST bit quieter than the left half, hardly noticeable though, and the sound quality is about the same) the bad news is there's still violent crackling with every slight movement of my head. I can hardly hear it over the music but still.

 So now I need to decide whether to keep them or try to sell them (maybe the frame and remaining working driver would be worth something?

 Also, whether to demand a refund from the seller? He said in the auction they worked perfectly...

 Edit: Fixed the crackling! I tweaked the cable around a bit and now there doesn't appear to be any crackling at all. Bad connections?


----------



## spritzer

A broken bias wire could surely cause that crackling noise. If this is an NB Lambda then there are unfortunately no replacement cables to be had.


----------



## fraseyboy

Hmm that's a shame since I'm pretty sure that's what's causing it. I've tried resoldering the connectors and ensuring nothing is brushing against anything else and it still seems to be there. I can tweak the cable in a certain direction and it goes away.

 Are there any aftermarket cables available for a normal bias Lambda? Or is it possible to make one myself?


----------



## spritzer

You can use a 5 pin cable from a SR-202 (which is a drop in replacement) but it always carries the danger of somebody plugging them into a Pro bias socket.


----------



## fraseyboy

It appears my left driver is also experiencing the crackling, so it must be the cable. I might put up with it unless I can score an SR-202 cable ultra cheap... It doesn't seem to be too bad. I'll just have to resist the urge to headbang 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Pretty sure the right driver that I fixed with glue is actually LOUDER than the left side, if not by much. Could be placebo though. Or earwax.


----------



## spritzer

It doesn't hurt to ask Craig at KuboTen.com what a SR-202 cable would set you back.


----------



## Rhinosaur

If you can somehow locate where the break might be the current cable could be salvaged. A few weeks ago I had a break in the cable just below the strain relief on the left speaker which I managed to fix. I basically cut the cable below the break and threaded it through. As the length of the cable after the Y-split is quite long, I could afford to lose a few inches of it.

 The biggest problem you'll have with this is getting the cable in/out of the strain relief as it's all moulded together. I had to lose most of it, but you'll need the piece it's connected to that holds the cable to the housing (the unusually shaped piece the metal plate goes over). I actually had to use a drill to loosen up the old bit of cable out of this piece - after that I pulled it out with a pair of pliers (with a bit of force I might add). Resoldered everything and applied some superglue down the side of that unusually shaped piece (to stop the cable sliding in/out of the housing).

 I can post some pics and a step-by-step later/tomorrow if you're interested. Certainly if you're prepared to buy a new cable it might be worth trying anyway (it'll only take some time and effort).


----------



## Mister Crash

I apologize if this is a bit off-topic, but this seems to be the all-encompassing Stax thread...

 Does anyone have any suggestions for a replacement flight case for a pair of O2s? When I bought my O2 Mk I earlier this year, they were shipped without a flight case as the seller (Craig at Kuboten) didn't have one. I sent an e-mail to Yama's Inc. about ordering a replacement case about a week ago, but have not gotten a reply.

 So, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket flight case with the right dimensions to house an O2?


----------



## Clarkmc2

For what is is worth, a dealer has been trying to get some major Stax product for me for some time. They just told him that it will ship today or tomorrow. He would be near the front of the line because they have had his money for quite a while. They said they just received the shipment from Stax so it is more than possible that Stax was waiting for money, methinks.

 Hope this is the good news it sounds like. I will know for sure in a few days. The dealer said he usually doesn't worry about bad communication with Yama's because they hardly ever answer the phone and take forever to email even in the best of times.

 Clark


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm that's a shame since I'm pretty sure that's what's causing it. I've tried resoldering the connectors and ensuring nothing is brushing against anything else and it still seems to be there. I can tweak the cable in a certain direction and it goes away.

 Are there any aftermarket cables available for a normal bias Lambda? Or is it possible to make one myself?_

 

Sounds like a broken wire, possibly in the cable. Sometimes you can figure out where it is by flexing one section at a time, cut into the wire and resolder it. As an alternative, if the break is close to either the headphone end or the plug end you could just cut the cable before the break and resolder the connections to the phones or plug and have an intact looking cable.

 Dealers in various counties can provide you with cable but these are ussually pretty expensive, i.e. US$100 and up.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm that's a shame since I'm pretty sure that's what's causing it. I've tried resoldering the connectors and ensuring nothing is brushing against anything else and it still seems to be there. I can tweak the cable in a certain direction and it goes away.

 Are there any aftermarket cables available for a normal bias Lambda? Or is it possible to make one myself?_

 

I've got a flat 6pin cable/connector that was removed from a Sigma and replaced with the 404 cable for the 404/Sigma upgrade. This is the same as the Lambda cable. Nothing wrong with it when it was removed. If you are interested in the connector, US$50 + postage.


----------



## fraseyboy

I think I'll just stick with the current cable. The crackling is not present when the top connector is twisted in a certain direction. Maybe one day I'll get round to doing something to fix it but at the moment I'd rather just enjoy my new Lambda's.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I'll just stick with the current cable. The crackling is not present when the top connector is twisted in a certain direction. Maybe one day I'll get round to doing something to fix it but at the moment I'd rather just enjoy my new Lambda's._

 

You should jump on that cable offer. Normal cables are impossible to find. I would grab it, but mine started
 working shortly after I asked people about it. ? Got me.?!


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should jump on that cable offer. Normal cables are impossible to find. I would grab it, but mine started
 working shortly after I asked people about it. ? Got me.?!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would but I simply cannot afford it right now. I already owe my mum $200 for the HF2's :/


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would but I simply cannot afford it right now. I already owe my mum $200 for the HF2's :/_

 

And when you get married you'll be fighting your wife over such things.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And when you get married you'll be fighting your wife over such things._

 

When will his girlfriend find the time to get him to the alter whilst he's exploring the world of electrostats?


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


 And when you get married you'll be fighting your wife over such things. 
 

There is a saying in the USA: Get all your toys before you are married, because there will be no more after that.

 There are relationships that do not follow the rule, but you never know beforehand if yours will be one!

 I am 62 years old, married twenty years, and am about to get a new top of the line Stax system, but that is after dreaming about it ever since the 007 came out in the 1990s. The $10000 price of the T2 equipped pair discouraged me a bit. 

 Clark


----------



## rsbrsvp

Does anyone know if I could use Sennheiser HD650 earpads and headband/headpad on the HE60 headphones?

 Also- Does anyone knoe if there is someone who will custom make earpads for the HE60 which will last?

 Thanks..


----------



## Michgelsen

Apparently (never tried it myself) you can use the HD650 headpad for the HE60, but you can't use other earpads. See this thread for some information on someone who can make custom earpads. It is possible that the sound changes when you use other earpads.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsbrsvp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if I could use Sennheiser HD650 earpads and headband/headpad on the HE60 headphones?
_

 

The HD650 earpads don't fit.
 The HD 650 headpad is a suitable replacement though and it's even necessary since the original headpad isn't available anymore AFAIK.
 A year ago I've purchased a set of earpads.Not exactly what I'd call cheap at ~ €60, but they are probably still available.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am 62 years old, married twenty years, and am about to get a new top of the line Stax system, but that is after dreaming about it ever since the 007 came out in the 1990s. 
 Clark_

 

Congrats - you are in for a treat - sonic bliss 
 cheers

 Tom


----------



## idosett1

There's a good possibility a local retailer could get his hands on a 404 limited edition. Can anyone point me towards a review, or tell me how it fairs against other headphones?
 I just hope there are still a few left from the batch Stax made.

 If I do get it, it will be amped with an SRM 006t II at first and if the need arises, I'll get something better. Is it a good match between those?


----------



## fraseyboy

My Lambda's have a pretty annoying buzzing and humming coming from the left driver. When I move the driver and give it a bit of a shake, the humming goes away but comes back in a matter of minutes.

 Is there any way to resolve this? 

 The seller offered me a refund and return since he described it as 'perfect condition' and it certainly isn't. Seeing as I got it for around $150USD, I'm thinking I might just keep them... I'm not sure. They seem to work ok now, apart from the humming and crackling cable issues...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda's have a pretty annoying buzzing and humming coming from the left driver. When I move the driver and give it a bit of a shake, the humming goes away but comes back in a matter of minutes.

 Is there any way to resolve this? 

 The seller offered me a refund and return since he described it as 'perfect condition' and it certainly isn't. Seeing as I got it for around $150USD, I'm thinking I might just keep them... I'm not sure. They seem to work ok now, apart from the humming and crackling cable issues..._

 

I would return them myself. It seems like a lot of bother to fix and it's not just a simple wire loose.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Lambda's have a pretty annoying buzzing and humming coming from the left driver. When I move the driver and give it a bit of a shake, the humming goes away but comes back in a matter of minutes.

 Is there any way to resolve this? 

 The seller offered me a refund and return since he described it as 'perfect condition' and it certainly isn't. Seeing as I got it for around $150USD, I'm thinking I might just keep them... I'm not sure. They seem to work ok now, apart from the humming and crackling cable issues..._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would return them myself. It seems like a lot of bother to fix and it's not just a simple wire loose._

 

That or jump on the offer of the $50 cable and see if that fixes the problem. I'm afraid the old cable is gonna electrocute you soon.


----------



## fraseyboy

Yeah, I think I'll just return them actually. They don't quite sound as good as I'd like anyway (lacking in bass, something strange about the mids and soundstage), which could be due to something being wrong with them or I could just not like the sound signature.

 Anyway, my HF2's will be here soon and for $450, I should hope they're better than the Labda's


----------



## Sherwood

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyway, my HF2's will be here soon and for $450, I should hope they're better than the Labda's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They are not. I'm so sorry. Hopefully you'll find yourself a proper pair before too long.


----------



## SemiAudiophile

does anyone know what the preheat function is for in the SRM-T1? or happens to have a manual that they can send to me? thanks.


----------



## n3rdling

To pre heat the tubes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On the T1, press the pre heat button in so the light flashes for a while and then press the power button once the pre heat light stops flashing.


----------



## SemiAudiophile

ahh...awesome, thanks. i should be receiving my T1/lambda today. very excited to hear it, waiting for the UPS guy to deliver...


----------



## SemiAudiophile

the T1 turned out to be bigger than i thought! definitely bigger in person than in pictures. the green light didn't flash at all when i pressed the preheat button in though. i had it warm up for about 30sec-1min before i turned it on. do i turn off the preheat once it's on or can i just leave it on? it also smelt like something was burning when i had the T1 on, it that normal? i didn't see or smell smoke but it smelled like circuits were being burnt. 

 anyway, can anyone confirm if this is really a lambda signature? the seller stated that it was a pro and came with a pro manual, but i wanted to make sure. here are some pics:


















 it says signature obviously and the back looks like it has a thin piece of foam instead of the mineral wool. is there any other way to tell? 

 i love the way it sounds so far. it definitely beats the K701 and HD650 in terms of transparency, resolution, clarity, and separation. it makes HD650 and K701 sound veiled in comparison. the music just sounds so pure through them with no hint of coloration. it kind of reminds of the K701 due to it being very light on the bass and crystal clear, but better. the treble on them does annoy me a little though, not sure if it's that "etch" or what but it's just a slight too much on some recordings. 

 i find myself being able to wear these for longer periods they are pretty comfortable and the presentation is very light and easy on the ears. the music just flows and i don't get any listening fatigue whatsoever with them on; a big plus in my book. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i do not think they are as expressive and impactful as dynamic cans, but they certainly sound more natural and realistic. some people say they lack "soul", perhaps. the HD650/K701/RS1 sound more musical and colored and the lambda sound a bit technical in comparison. i wouldn't describe the lambda as boring though, i think a lot of it has to do with the source material. for example, i just listened to "Purple Haze" and it sure made my foot tapping. the lambda is very neutral and has the ability to present the music just the way it is: the way it's suppose to be, with nothing added. 

 i also find them to be very well rounded too. they won't replace any of my Grado's for rock cans, but they do rock pretty hard and has a similar presentation to my HF2 with bagel pads. i have yet to hear the ESP950.


----------



## spritzer

That's a Lambda Signature but you shouldn't smell any burning from any amp. Open up the T1, clean out the dust that always accumulates and check for any discolorations.


----------



## n3rdling

It looks like those are Signatures. The headband and earcups are definitely what the Signatures use, but it looks like the pads are black. What color is the cable? Black or dark brown? That should tell you enough to confirm whether they are Signatures or not. 

 I'm a big fan of the Signature/T1 combo. I actually just posted about this the other day here. Based on your impressions, I think you'll definitely become a stat kinda guy. Always a good thing in my book. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Have fun with your rig!


----------



## SemiAudiophile

yep, the cable is dark brown. gonna give that de-foaming mod a try later to see if it helps with the "etch".


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sherwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are not. I'm so sorry. Hopefully you'll find yourself a proper pair before too long._

 

I'm not sure...

 One of the things I didn't like about the Lambda's was the fact that they were ever so slightly boring. They just didn't really make my toe tap.

 Grado's are notoriously fun, so I'm hoping the HF2's are a better fit.


----------



## SemiAudiophile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you shouldn't smell any burning from any amp. Open up the T1, clean out the dust that always accumulates and check for any discolorations._

 

i opened it up, but didn't really see any major discolorations. it was actually pretty clean inside with very little dust. here are the shots of the inside:














 i cleaned it with a dust blower, reseated the tubes and cleaned the pins using deoxit. turned it on and the smell seems to be coming from the front where the tubes are. don't see anything funny though like sparks or smoke, my guess is that the smell is coming from those tube socks getting hot from the tubes.


----------



## spritzer

Now that's something new, I've never seen a T1 like that. Most have only 1 transformer and a very different layout. What is the serial number on this one?


----------



## gp_hebert

Lambda Signature / Lambda Pro comparison
 -------------------------------------------------

 I've spent some quality time with both headphones in the past week and I wanted to write down a couple of observations. The setup I'm using is the one in my signature, which is far from being high-end, but I feel it's pretty good at bang for buck compared to some rigs I've heard in the past. I'm using the Denon DA-500 over the Pico right now because I still need to buy a mini to RCA cable to connect the Pico to my amp.

 A few things before I start. First, the pads on the Lambda Pro are still big and fluffy while the ones on the Signature are much thinner, but still in good shape. I don't know if that would make a huge difference, I leave that to Stax experts to decide. Previous Stax headphones I've heard or owned: SR-202, SR-404, SR-Gamma, SR-001 and SR-007, and I've owned another pair of Lambda Signature at one point.

 I used a couple of my favourite "testing" CDs:

 Genesis - A Trick of the Tail (original ATCO)
 Opeth - Damnation
 Fritz Reiner/CSO - Pines of Rome by Respighi and La Mer by Debussy (Living Stereo)
 Camel - A Nod and a Wink
 Iron Maiden - Seventh Son of a Seventh Son (Toshiba Black Triangle)
 Charles Mingus - Mingus Ah Um

 The first thing I noted after listening to both headphones back to back is that there isn't a world of difference between the two, you can easily tell they're from the same family. I'd say they're much closer in sound than, let's say, a HD600 and HD650. Still, there are enough substantial differences to identify which is which and even though I haven't done a DBT (and don't plan to), I'm fairly confident anyone here could hear the differences. I'll divide my impressions in a few categories to try to put coherency in my poor English writing skills.

 Details
 --------

 Showing off details is a category where the Signature truly outshines the Pros. The Sigs are excellent at extracting micro-details from the music and I can hear some small things like soft cymbal hits that I barely get on the Pros. On the other hand, I find that the way the Sigs present details sometimes detract me from the music, while the Pros are a little bit better at presenting the whole portrait and not just focusing on details. The Pros sound "fuller", especially with rock music while the Sigs can sound quite thin at times, but the trade-off is that the Pros sometime put fog on small things I'm used to hear.

 Dynamics
 -----------

 That's another category where I feel the Lambda Signature is superior to the Pro. It's quite easy to hear the difference while listening to Respighi's Pines of Rome. I'm not sure how to put that in words, but I think the contrast I hear in terms of dynamics is due to the more sparkly treble of the Signature and its slightly deeper bass. It's not to say that the Pro isn't dynamic, but I just feel its presentation is a bit more dull and less lively than the Sigs. With that said, on recordings with spiky treble, the Sigs can sound quite aggressive while the Pros tame this spikiness a bit.

 Also, the Sigs sound more impactful to me than the Pros which is quite apparent when focusing on drums. The snare sounds tight as it should and the cymbals have just the right amount of "splashiness". The Pros are not bad, but they sound slightly unnatural to me in that aspect.

 Frequency response
 ----------------------

 Starting with the bass, the Sigs go slightly lower than the Pros. Also, the Signature's bass is tighter and it's easier to pick the notes individually. The Pros blurry the bass definition a bit and it's harder to hear the string "clacks" of a contrabass or just to get the "bounciness" of a bass guitar. I bet using a proper Stax amp could cure a part of this problem, because each of the SRD-7 setups I've heard in the past always had lesser bass quality compared to setups featuring electrostatic amps.

 For the midrange, I'd say both are pretty similar, but as I said earlier the Sigs sound more lively. Both of these cans are not particularly great at reproducing mids IMO, at least compared to other electrostats like the SR-001 and SR-007. They sound a bit thin for the lack of a better word and they fail at reproducing the richness male and female vocals can have, though I think they're a bit better with female vocals. 

 Treble-wise, the Sigs shine once again, the presentation is more "crisp" and sparkly while the Pros sound almost rolled-off by comparison. To be honest, the Sigs are one the best headphones I've heard in terms of treble reproduction, with the counterpart that poor recordings sound really poor and shouty.

 Soundstage
 -------------

 I've always liked the Lambda series soundstage since the first time I heard a SR-404. They sound very open with a wide presentation from the far left to the far right. Compared to what I remember from the SR-007, the Lambdas have a wider soundstage, but it's harder to pinpoint the instruments in space with precision, something that the O2 mastered perfectly. Still, it's hard to dislike the air and sense of space given by the Lambdas. For what it's worth, I don't hear any significative difference between the Pros and the Sigs for that aspect.

 Conclusion
 ------------

 As a monitor or when listening to well-recorded music, I'd use the Sigs hands down, but when confronted to poorly-recorded rock or jazz music, the Pros can offer a more forgiving and perhaps more "fun" sound. They're both good cans, but to my ears the Lambda Signature is the superior one. If I could associate one general characteristic with each phone, I'd say the Lambda Pro are more "round" while the Signature are more "precise". In the end, it goes down to what each user prefers.


----------



## GuyDebord

thanks for the impressions!


----------



## dickbianchi

Thanks for the impressions. I have never heard the signatures and it is likely I will try to acquire a pair, since there are many on the forum who find them superior to the pros. 

 The pros have been my favorite stax phone of 3 I own (also own 303s and 
 5nbgolds (snbgolds. cant remember), but this summer I acquired a pair of basic lambdas. They're pretty old but perform beautifully and they have become the new faves. I cant be very specific as to why but they just sound more "natural" than the other lambdas I have. I beathe a "sigh of recognition" every time I put them on, no matter the music (dont listen to rock much), and even if I am really enjoying the other earphones. Like the good gets better. I use a 007t amp with them.

 If the older lambdas weren't so satisfying to me, I'd have bought Omegas by now.


----------



## SemiAudiophile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now that's something new, I've never seen a T1 like that. Most have only 1 transformer and a very different layout. What is the serial number on this one?_

 

looks like a B series. serial #: B 4358

 it could be modded, but i'm not sure. there's these O2 blocker stickers on them and written on the inside. gonna contact the seller to confirm. 

 gp_hebert, thanks for the comparison. i'm very happy with the Signature. i agree that it has a very lively presentation to them. though, sometimes i wish there was more mids or that they were more forward (especially for vocals). i do like them the way they are though because they sound more realistic and gives a more perceived sense of where the singer is placed. i hear that the normal Lambda is better in this regard or perhaps the ESP950, since it's considered a "Lambda on steroids".


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lambda Signature / Lambda Pro comparison
 -------------------------------------------------

 I've spent some quality time with both headphones in the past week and I wanted to write down a couple of observations. The setup I'm using is the one in my signature, which is far from being high-end, but I feel it's pretty good at bang for buck compared to some rigs I've heard in the past. I'm using the Denon DA-500 over the Pico right now because I still need to buy a mini to RCA cable to connect the Pico to my amp.

 A few things before I start. First, the pads on the Lambda Pro are still big and fluffy while the ones on the Signature are much thinner, but still in good shape. I don't know if that would make a huge difference, I leave that to Stax experts to decide. Previous Stax headphones I've heard or owned: SR-202, SR-404, SR-Gamma, SR-001 and SR-007, and I've owned another pair of Lambda Signature at one point.

 I used a couple of my favourite "testing" CDs:

 Genesis - A Trick of the Tail (original ATCO)
 Opeth - Damnation
 Fritz Reiner/CSO - Pines of Rome by Respighi and La Mer by Debussy (Living Stereo)
 Camel - A Nod and a Wink
 Iron Maiden - Seventh Son of a Seventh Son (Toshiba Black Triangle)
 Charles Mingus - Mingus Ah Um

 The first thing I noted after listening to both headphones back to back is that there isn't a world of difference between the two, you can easily tell they're from the same family. I'd say they're much closer in sound than, let's say, a HD600 and HD650. Still, there are enough substantial differences to identify which is which and even though I haven't done a DBT (and don't plan to), I'm fairly confident anyone here could hear the differences. I'll divide my impressions in a few categories to try to put coherency in my poor English writing skills.

 Details
 --------

 Showing off details is a category where the Signature truly outshines the Pros. The Sigs are excellent at extracting micro-details from the music and I can hear some small things like soft cymbal hits that I barely get on the Pros. On the other hand, I find that the way the Sigs present details sometimes detract me from the music, while the Pros are a little bit better at presenting the whole portrait and not just focusing on details. The Pros sound "fuller", especially with rock music while the Sigs can sound quite thin at times, but the trade-off is that the Pros sometime put fog on small things I'm used to hear.

 Dynamics
 -----------

 That's another category where I feel the Lambda Signature is superior to the Pro. It's quite easy to hear the difference while listening to Respighi's Pines of Rome. I'm not sure how to put that in words, but I think the contrast I hear in terms of dynamics is due to the more sparkly treble of the Signature and its slightly deeper bass. It's not to say that the Pro isn't dynamic, but I just feel its presentation is a bit more dull and less lively than the Sigs. With that said, on recordings with spiky treble, the Sigs can sound quite aggressive while the Pros tame this spikiness a bit.

 Also, the Sigs sound more impactful to me than the Pros which is quite apparent when focusing on drums. The snare sounds tight as it should and the cymbals have just the right amount of "splashiness". The Pros are not bad, but they sound slightly unnatural to me in that aspect.

 Frequency response
 ----------------------

 Starting with the bass, the Sigs go slightly lower than the Pros. Also, the Signature's bass is tighter and it's easier to pick the notes individually. The Pros blurry the bass definition a bit and it's harder to hear the string "clacks" of a contrabass or just to get the "bounciness" of a bass guitar. I bet using a proper Stax amp could cure a part of this problem, because each of the SRD-7 setups I've heard in the past always had lesser bass quality compared to setups featuring electrostatic amps.

 For the midrange, I'd say both are pretty similar, but as I said earlier the Sigs sound more lively. Both of these cans are not particularly great at reproducing mids IMO, at least compared to other electrostats like the SR-001 and SR-007. They sound a bit thin for the lack of a better word and they fail at reproducing the richness male and female vocals can have, though I think they're a bit better with female vocals. 

 Treble-wise, the Sigs shine once again, the presentation is more "crisp" and sparkly while the Pros sound almost rolled-off by comparison. To be honest, the Sigs are one the best headphones I've heard in terms of treble reproduction, with the counterpart that poor recordings sound really poor and shouty.

 Soundstage
 -------------

 I've always liked the Lambda series soundstage since the first time I heard a SR-404. They sound very open with a wide presentation from the far left to the far right. Compared to what I remember from the SR-007, the Lambdas have a wider soundstage, but it's harder to pinpoint the instruments in space with precision, something that the O2 mastered perfectly. Still, it's hard to dislike the air and sense of space given by the Lambdas. For what it's worth, I don't hear any significative difference between the Pros and the Sigs for that aspect.

 Conclusion
 ------------

 As a monitor or when listening to well-recorded music, I'd use the Sigs hands down, but when confronted to poorly-recorded rock or jazz music, the Pros can offer a more forgiving and perhaps more "fun" sound. They're both good cans, but to my ears the Lambda Signature is the superior one. If I could associate one general characteristic with each phone, I'd say the Lambda Pro are more "round" while the Signature are more "precise". In the end, it goes down to what each user prefers._

 

Bonjour mon confrere Canadien!

 Your impressions seem similar to what I heard when I compared the sigs with a Lambda Classic Nova which is probably more like the Pro. The Nova had a nice tonal balance whereas the Signas were open and detailed but sucked out in the middle and somewhat tizzy at the top. I would like to see a thread on Lambda reviews especially where one or more of the dozen plus Lambdas are compared directly with others. It might be nice if you wanted to add your review to this other comparison. 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 Since I did that report I also tried replacing the back foam on my Sigs, decided I didn't like the sound at all and yanked all the remaining back foam off both it and the 404. 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/

 I think both phones benefit greatly from taking the back foam out. I haven't tried the Nova yet because these are up for sale.

 It's interesting comparing the foamless Lambdas with the 007. I don't see any foam on the back side of my 007A drivers. Nor do I believe there is any on the HE90 or Jade which I have only heard briefly.


----------



## audiod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gp_hebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Conclusion
 ------------

 As a monitor or when listening to well-recorded music, I'd use the Sigs hands down, but when confronted to poorly-recorded rock or jazz music, the Pros can offer a more forgiving and perhaps more "fun" sound. They're both good cans, but to my ears the Lambda Signature is the superior one. If I could associate one general characteristic with each phone, I'd say the Lambda Pro are more "round" while the Signature are more "precise". In the end, it goes down to what each user prefers._

 

Good description. If you want to combine the best of both you get a LNS.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SemiAudiophile* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_looks like a B series. serial #: B 4358

 it could be modded, but i'm not sure. there's these O2 blocker stickers on them and written on the inside. gonna contact the seller to confirm. 

 gp_hebert, thanks for the comparison. i'm very happy with the Signature. i agree that it has a very lively presentation to them. though, sometimes i wish there was more mids or that they were more forward (especially for vocals). i do like them the way they are though because they sound more realistic and gives a more perceived sense of where the singer is placed. i hear that the normal Lambda is better in this regard or perhaps the ESP950, since it's considered a "Lambda on steroids"._

 

Have you ever tried the HE60? They have a somewhat more forward midrange with even better timbre.


----------



## SemiAudiophile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you ever tried the HE60? They have a somewhat more forward midrange with even better timbre._

 

haven't yet, would love to hear the HE60. i've heard that the ESP950 reaches HE60 level when driven through something like the Blue Hawaii. 

 anyway, i've contacted the seller and according to him, there were no mods done to the T1. here's his reply in quote:  Quote:


 the T1 unit was not modified. however it was treated with the O2 blocker compound back in Febuary of 1997. the O2 blocker was a contact enhancer which helped improve the overall output. you will probabily notice certification sticker on the top of your unit.


----------



## green0153

Thanks for impressions,
 I like more the ESP950 than the lambdas and comparing them to the O2Mk1 the ESP950 sound more balanced.


----------



## edstrelow

Icould never quite get into the Koss 950, after I went to Lambdas and then 007, and ended up recently selling my Koss set along with a Stax/Koss adapter. Possibly they shine better with the best Stax cable, certainly they sound better out of a Stax amp. 

 The 950 had none of the bass bloat of the 404 but it had its own high frequency peak.

 Of course I am now removing the back foam on my Lambdas giving a different, and I think better sound to these as well so the 950 seems even further behind. I am not sure what the 950 uses behind the drivers. At one time it seemed there was a half cover of cardboard. Possibly it woud pay to expeiment with removing the backing as with the Lambdas.


----------



## green0153

I removed the backing and it changed things quite a bit.
 The headstage became similar to lambdas but you can focus better on the instruments the rest of the freq spectrum remained the same.
 The Koss has replaced my old headphones so these are not modded but its quite simple to remove the material on the back.The material is some kind of textile that isn't there just to block the dust like on some lambdas.


----------



## manaox2

Its just sick to me that I feel that I could be very very happy with a $50 DTA-1 T-amp, $50 1st gen shuffle, SRD7SB, and SR-Lambda. Definitely not audiophile, but for a $350 rig, this is just sick, I can't pull myself away.


----------



## green0153

great for your wallet


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its just sick to me that I feel that I could be very very happy with a $50 DTA-1 T-amp, $50 1st gen shuffle, SRD7SB, and SR-Lambda. Definitely not audiophile, but for a $350 rig, this is just sick, I can't pull myself away._

 

I don't see how a stax setup with a t amp isn't audiophile. I suppose your referring mostly to the shuffle


----------



## Sherwood

My bedroom rig right there, except replace the shuffle with an 0404 DAC and the T with a Trends T. Sounds delish. I could be happy with just that


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've set up my Pico DAC-only > Nuforce Icon 12-watt amp > modded SRD-7 with normal bias jack, plus both pro bias Stax and HE Audio Jacks. Pretty darn nice sounding whether its with Lambdas or Jades.


----------



## Bullseye

Well, I have finally saved up enough money and have taken my final decision and next week I will be buying the STAX 2050 system.

 I want to see how they perform with metal, how comfortable they are and if "electrostatic sound" is to my liking. SO far I like how the sr-202 look. I am looking for something very comfortable (similar to ERGO 2 comfort or better) as less colored as possible and not fatiguing. 

 Might get some of it or none, but I will be able to try stats.


----------



## kh6idf

I continue to be impressed by my new (to me) 2050II system, I look forward to your comments once yours arrives.


----------



## Bullseye

kh6idf, how do you find them comfort-wise compared to the sr60? How many hours can you stay listening to music with them? And finally what type of music do you listen to?


----------



## tako_tsubo

Congrats on picking out a Stax system Bullseye. I don't listen to much metal ...but my Lambda based Stax do sound good listening to Porcupine Tree. The speed of the electrostats is what will make metal appealing...


----------



## kh6idf

Bullseye,

 The SR-202 is more comfortable than the sr60 because they don't press on my ears. If it weren't for my ears sweating I could wear them for hours but I need to take them off and wipe my ears with a towel after 15 minutes or so.

 I listen mostly to classical, acoustic, choral and a bit of everything else.

 Tonight I was listening to Arvo Part - the album titled "I am the true vine". So beautiful through the 2050II system...


----------



## kh6idf

Has anyone noticed these replacement earpads on ebay? Claims they are real leather pads, they have an ad for 202,303 and 404 but looks to be the same pads. Might be worth $70 shipped if they are real leather and not vinyl.

STAX Ear Pads for SR-202 Series (Pair) - eBay (item 390095794297 end time Oct-18-09 18:27:17 PDT)


----------



## Tachikoma

No, they're just the updated Stax pads, and they definitely aren't worth $70 - hell I got my O2 pads for less than that (not including shipping though)


----------



## XXII

I have an sr-007 mk1 on its way. The only thing I have to drive it is a srd-7 pro out of my Balanced Beta22 (2 x Sigma22). This is obviously not ideal but will it give me good taste of what the sr-007 can do?

 I'm guessing that my HD800 would be significantly better since it's properly amped.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an sr-007 mk1 on its way. The only thing I have to drive it is a srd-7 pro out of my Balanced Beta22 (2 x Sigma22). This is obviously not ideal but will it give me good taste of what the sr-007 can do?

 I'm guessing that my HD800 would be significantly better since it's properly amped._

 

That will be an interesting comparison. Let us know. I'm looking to get the SR-007 as well.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an sr-007 mk1 on its way. The only thing I have to drive it is a srd-7 pro out of my Balanced Beta22 (2 x Sigma22). This is obviously not ideal but will it give me good taste of what the sr-007 can do?

 I'm guessing that my HD800 would be significantly better since it's properly amped._

 

I think it will give you an idea of what they can do. With a nice direct drive amp like GES the gains will be mostly in micro-detail and some in ambience/space and soundstage, unless you get a KGBH SE and then it will kick the B22/SRD-7 Pro's butt with better everything (bass, mids, treble, power, impact, detail, etc). I still remember the BHSE/Mk1 combo from CanJam like it was yesterday - it was imprinted on my brain and makes me unhappy with any lesser amp with the Mk1 now.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That will be an interesting comparison. Let us know. I'm looking to get the SR-007 as well._

 

Will do.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think it will give you an idea of what they can do. With a nice direct drive amp like GES the gains will be mostly in micro-detail and some in ambience/space and soundstage, unless you get a KGBH SE and then it will kick the B22/SRD-7 Pro's butt with better everything (bass, mids, treble, power, impact, detail, etc). I still remember the BHSE/Mk1 combo from CanJam like it was yesterday - it was imprinted on my brain and makes me unhappy with any lesser amp with the Mk1 now._

 

Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure what I'm going to do if I like them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Do you use your srd-7 with your ZDT? How does the srd-7/ZDT combo compare with other stax amps like srm-1 or srm-t1?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will do.



 Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure what I'm going to do if I like them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you use your srd-7 with your ZDT? How does the srd-7/ZDT combo compare with other stax amps like srm-1 or srm-t1?_

 

The ZDT/SRD-7 Pro is great with my HE60 and Jade, and not as good with the O2 Mk1. My Woo GES sounds much better with the O2 when I had both running side by side at the Colorado summer meet. The ZDT/SRD combo is still much better than my old SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and closer to Sherwood's old SRM-T1 was. It still lacks some detail and sounds mushy when compared side by side with the Woo GES. I have heard some tube hybrid and SS speakers amps that gave the O2 Mk1 a more snappy response, but I don't recall if that was done with my SRD-7 Mk2 SB or my SRD-7 Pro. I suspect my SRD-7 Mk2 SB may be the better sounding box.

 Once i figure out if one version of my Stax transformers is better than the other I'll let you know - I only tried the SRD-7 Pro (110v AC two pro jacks) with the ZDT, and haven't tried my SRD-7 Mk2 SB on the ZDT yet. 

 I also have a modded SRD-7 SB normal boas box with a pro-bias jack and HE Audio Jack added, and the inputs are banana jacks that run directly into the transformers with the cheap pigtail cable removed (about a 3-4 ohm load I was told). I need to compare that too. Craig at EC thinks the ZDT could drive it without damage but could sound strained.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ZDT/SRD-7 Pro is great with my HE60 and Jade, and not as good with the O2 Mk1. My Woo GES sounds much better with the O2 when I had both running side by side at the Colorado summer meet. The ZDT/SRD combo is still much better than my old SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and closer to Sherwood's old SRM-T1 was. It still lacks some detail and sounds mushy when compared side by side with the Woo GES. I have heard some tube hybrid and SS speakers amps that gave the O2 Mk1 a more snappy response, but I don't recall if that was done with my SRD-7 Mk2 SB or my SRD-7 Pro. I suspect my SRD-7 Mk2 SB may be the better sounding box.

 Once i figure out if one version of my Stax transformers is better than the other I'll let you know - I only tried the SRD-7 Pro (110v AC two pro jacks) with the ZDT, and haven't tried my SRD-7 Mk2 SB on the ZDT yet. 

 I also have a modded SRD-7 SB normal boas box with a pro-bias jack and HE Audio Jack added, and the inputs are banana jacks that run directly into the transformers with the cheap pigtail cable removed (about a 3-4 ohm load I was told). I need to compare that too. Craig at EC thinks the ZDT could drive it without damage but could sound strained._

 

Thanks again Larry. What speaker cables are you using with the modded SB? Do you find that it makes a difference?

 I might replace the pigtail on my srd-7 pro with something better.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks again Larry. What speaker cables are you using with the modded SB? Do you find that it makes a difference?

 I might replace the pigtail on my srd-7 pro with something better._

 

The stock Nuforce Icon desktop amp speaker cables have a banana plug built into the end and so I was using that amp (but have only tried the box via the HE Audio jack so far). I bought a pair of 12 foot PureAV speaker cables with bananas from DedicatedAudio.com back in April when they were on sale at 1/2 price, but I haven't used them yet because I was going to get a nicer set of custom cables from Yaccocables.com and never got around to it.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an sr-007 mk1 on its way. The only thing I have to drive it is a srd-7 pro out of my Balanced Beta22 (2 x Sigma22). This is obviously not ideal but will it give me good taste of what the sr-007 can do?_

 

Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The β22 -> SRD-7 pro is far from the ideal amplification, but I certainly would say it gives you a really nice taste of what the O2 can deliver. I live quite happily with the same setup.


----------



## milezone

Has anyone seen/used this amp?

MIPA Stax Amplifier 

 It looks interesting and damn expensive but perhaps out of production.


----------



## milezone

.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congratulations! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The β22 -> SRD-7 pro is far from the ideal amplification, but I certainly would say it gives you a really nice taste of what the O2 can deliver. I live quite happily with the same setup._

 

Thanks krmathis! How does the β22 amping the srd-7 compare with other amps you have tried?


----------



## dvb-projekt

Does anyone have this schematics from this good old amp?

 Best regrads,
 Oliver


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks krmathis! How does the β22 amping the srd-7 compare with other amps you have tried?_

 

Let me see...
 It has a more powerful sound (bass control) than the Signature 30.2, but lack its warm sort of analog sound. They both have a magical mid-range and a clean top-end. The detail levels is on par.
 The Leben CS300 is quite nice as well, but the Boulder 865 stand out as the clear winner of those I have heard driving the O2 through the SRD-7 Pro.

 You find some more impressions in my β22 thread.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *milezone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone seen/used this amp?

MIPA Stax Amplifier 

 It looks interesting and damn expensive but perhaps out of production._

 

Overpriced doesn't even begin to cover this but I'm sure somebody bought one at some time.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvb-projekt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have this schematics from this good old amp?

 Best regrads,
 Oliver_

 

The SRD-X Pro is probably an SRD-X with a different bias circuit - in which case, it's a fairly pedantic car radio chip amp driving a pair of small transformers. 

 What do you need a schematic for? 

 I still need to trace out the bias circuit from my SRD-X.


----------



## J-Pak

The pro bias transformer box and power amp will give you a taste of what the SR-007 will do (in fact I enjoyed this setup for about a year), but moving to the Blue Hawaii was the single best upgrade I've _ever_ made (not including the actual headphones).


----------



## dvb-projekt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SRD-X Pro is probably an SRD-X with a different bias circuit - in which case, it's a fairly pedantic car radio chip amp driving a pair of small transformers. 

 What do you need a schematic for? 

 I still need to trace out the bias circuit from my SRD-X._

 

I would like to make a new case with a new bigger pcb and tweak it up a bit.


----------



## zigo

Please, somebody knows the output impedance range of srd7-sb?
 Not the 8ohm input, the output.
 tia


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvb-projekt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would like to make a new case with a new bigger pcb and tweak it up a bit._

 

Like i said, the SRD-X consists of a mediocre, 1979 chip amp - Which is to say a low-power speaker amp built with parts intended to go in entry-level car radios - and a pair of small transformers. And a bias supply. 

 The only parts of that with value are the bias circuit and the transformers. 

 Rebuilding the existing power amp on a different board would be a fool's errand. It needs replacing. 

 The volume pot, by the way, has dissimilar decks on it. One of them has less resistance than the other, and that little adjustment point on the side for adjusting the channel imbalance tweaks a trimpot on the board that adds more resistance to the lesser path. 

 Replicating that functionality would be foolish as well. So, out goes the existing volume pot. 

 What i recommend - and plan for myself - is replacing the power amp with a small, potentially DIY class-D or class-T amplifier. 

 So then what we need is a wiring diagram of the transformers and bias supply, and nuts to the original amp circuit. 

 I'm here to tell you: These do not exist. We don't have them. I'd like to have them, but will probably have to make them myself from my SRD-X, which won't have the same bias supply as your SRD-X Pro.


----------



## dvb-projekt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like i said, the SRD-X consists of a mediocre, 1979 chip amp - Which is to say a low-power speaker amp built with parts intended to go in entry-level car radios - and a pair of small transformers. And a bias supply. 

 The only parts of that with value are the bias circuit and the transformers. 

 Rebuilding the existing power amp on a different board would be a fool's errand. It needs replacing. 

 The volume pot, by the way, has dissimilar decks on it. One of them has less resistance than the other, and that little adjustment point on the side for adjusting the channel imbalance tweaks a trimpot on the board that adds more resistance to the lesser path. 

 Replicating that functionality would be foolish as well. So, out goes the existing volume pot. 

 What i recommend - and plan for myself - is replacing the power amp with a small, potentially DIY class-D or class-T amplifier. 

 So then what we need is a wiring diagram of the transformers and bias supply, and nuts to the original amp circuit. 

 I'm here to tell you: These do not exist. We don't have them. I'd like to have them, but will probably have to make them myself from my SRD-X, which won't have the same bias supply as your SRD-X Pro._

 

Thanks for the information Eric. You´re right, i leave everything as it is.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I have had the Stax Lambda normal and an SRD-7. Loved it. I see Salt Peanuts has a Stax SR-Lambda Pro & SRM-1/Mk on the FS here. What are the differences b/w the two combos sonically?

 Cheers!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My new SR-404LE out of my GES or my Qinpu A-3 > SRD-7 Pro sounds pretty good. Started burn-in around 3PM. Will keep you updated. So far on Bella Sonus and Bink Audio Test CD the bass is strong down to 20Hz - yippee!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My new SR-404LE out of my GES or my Qinpu A-3 > SRD-7 Pro sounds pretty good. Started burn-in around 3PM. Will keep you updated. So far on Bella Sonus and Bink Audio Test CD the bass is strong down to 20Hz - yippee!_

 

20hz? How? Is it the amp? I thought they rolled off around 32hz?


----------



## El_Doug

the beginning of rolloff does not necessarily correspond with the point at which the level drops to inaudibility


----------



## spacemanspliff

Ok. Not to be repetitive. I am going to research now that I have an hour. Still, if anyone has heard both of the below combos, please give me your opinion. I have a borrowed pair of V4 Darths and they sound excellent but I fear they are just not quite resolving enough in the details area. Very fine dynamics though. The bass is certainly improved in its level. Just barely intrudes on the mids now.

 I have had the Stax Lambda normal and an SRD-7. Loved it. I see Salt Peanuts has a Stax SR-Lambda Pro & SRM-1/Mk on the FS here. What are the differences b/w the two combos sonically?

 Ok looks like the pro is more detail oriented and has a bit less kick than the normals. Tell me if I am wrong please.

 Cheers!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My new SR-404LE out of my GES or my Qinpu A-3 > SRD-7 Pro sounds pretty good. Started burn-in around 3PM. Will keep you updated. So far on Bella Sonus and Bink Audio Test CD the bass is strong down to 20Hz - yippee!_

 

I would sure like to know what these sound like compared to a normal 404. Do they have foam behind the drivers? If so you might want to try them foamless.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would sure like to know what these sound like compared to a normal 404. Do they have foam behind the drivers? If so you might want to try them foamless._

 

He knows all about foamless. Bluto has my old Lambda normal foamless. Those are killers. I want them back btw. lol


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

With the SR-404LE I think a lot of the tizzyness of the SR-Lambda Signature treble is missing and there is very little upper midrange etch, the mids are more forward than the SR-Lambda Lambda Pro or Signature, and the bass is punchier and more dynamic than my SR-Lambda (normal bias).

 There is a thin layer of foam behind the driver on the SR-404LE, and while I enjoy Blutarsky's SR-Lambda with no foam, I don't want to muck with mine or these right now.

 And, as far as the bass - the bass at 25Hz is almost as strong as the bass at 31.5Hz, while the bass at 20Hz is probably about 3-4dB down from 31.5Hz which to me is pretty good for an open can.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the SR-404LE I think a lot of the tizzyness of the SR-Lambda Signature treble is missing (...)_

 

Is this a good or a bad thing?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this a good or a bad thing?_

 

Good?


----------



## Sherwood

Very good. Tizziness is a universal evil.


----------



## n3rdling

Just got my HE60 to Stax adapter from Dinan. Running them out of my 717 right now, here are my initial impressions that I sent to him:

 This is a completely different sound from the O2, but still excellent. I think it's a near perfect compliment to the O2. Very "clear" sounding, a little on the bright side of neutral, there's a spike in the low to mid highs, timbre is excellent, detail excellent in mids and highs, bass is rolled off and lacks presence and detail, soundstage pretty diffuse without being annoyingly large. These are just initial impressions, we'll see what I think when I get more time with them.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my HE60 to Stax adapter from Dinan. Running them out of my 717 right now, here are my initial impressions that I sent to him:

 This is a completely different sound from the O2, but still excellent. I think it's a near perfect compliment to the O2. Very "clear" sounding, a little on the bright side of neutral, there's a spike in the low to mid highs, timbre is excellent, detail excellent in mids and highs, bass is rolled off and lacks presence and detail, soundstage pretty diffuse without being annoyingly large. These are just initial impressions, we'll see what I think when I get more time with them._

 

I'm glad you like it. Keep in mind that the adaptor is going to break-in and smooth that top end out. I really like my HE60 through the 717. The combo renders an amazing amount of detail and speed. To me, the HE60 is the ultimate for classical and jazz while I go to the O2 for rock and blues.


----------



## edstrelow

My Signature is somewhat tizzy. When I put in new foam backing I couldn't stand the sound at all. However removing the back foam helps the sound quite a bit and reduces the tizz.


----------



## Michgelsen

Ah, I was not familiar with the word 'tizzyness'. Judging from the word alone, I thought it meant a pleasant/smooth sparkle in the highs. Apparently it doesn't. I guess I'll have to agree then, that the Lambda Signature can sound tizzy.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an sr-007 mk1 on its way. The only thing I have to drive it is a srd-7 pro out of my Balanced Beta22 (2 x Sigma22). This is obviously not ideal but will it give me good taste of what the sr-007 can do?

 I'm guessing that my HD800 would be significantly better since it's properly amped._

 

I received the sr-007 and have been listening to them for about a week. I was utterly surprised by how good they were even underdriven. In the mean time, I have already sold my HD800 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 !!

 Actually, the sr-007+srd-7+Beta22 was definitely not as good in most areas compared to HD-800+Beta22 especially in terms of detail and soundstage but it was good enough for me to want to hear them out of a proper setup... so I sold my HD800 to fund a used KGSS which should arrive sometime next week. I'm pretty sure that I will buy another HD800 eventually but this might change if the KGSS+O2 is REALLY good.

 So what improvements can I expect from the srd-7? Basically I'm hoping for a bass that trumps the HD-800 bass (which is probably the best I've ever heard) and more detail.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received the sr-007 and have been listening to them for about a week. I was utterly surprised by how good they were even underdriven. In the mean time, I have already sold my HD800 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !!

 Actually, the sr-007+srd-7+Beta22 was definitely not as good in most areas compared to HD-800+Beta22 especially in terms of detail and soundstage but it was good enough for me to want to hear them out of a proper setup... so I sold my HD800 to fund a used KGSS which should arrive sometime next week. I'm pretty sure that I will buy another HD800 eventually but this might change if the KGSS+O2 is REALLY good.

 So what improvements can I expect from the srd-7? Basically I'm hoping for a bass that trumps the HD-800 bass (which is probably the best I've ever heard) and more detail._

 

If you are anything like me, you will abandon ship. Myself and anther form member got our 02 rigs about the same time and pretty much bailed out on dynamic cans after that. 

 In fact, the O2 purchase lead me to by the portable SR-001 which I also love after only 8 hours of burn. They are not perfect but do go low and sound 100% STAX. THe big complaint on these is the softer top end but this is good to me as it eliminates listening fatigue and there is no detail missing. 

 Enjoy!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received the sr-007 and have been listening to them for about a week. I was utterly surprised by how good they were even underdriven. In the mean time, I have already sold my HD800 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !!_

 

..way to go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 β22 -> SRD-7 Pro -> SR-007 is very nice indeed, although it certainly can be improved on. So parting with the HD800 to go KGSS seems like a smart choice.

 Makes me wonder if I really want to part with the O2 anyway. It is not like I really need the money... Hmmm


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received the sr-007 and have been listening to them for about a week. I was utterly surprised by how good they were even underdriven. In the mean time, I have already sold my HD800 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !!

 Actually, the sr-007+srd-7+Beta22 was definitely not as good in most areas compared to HD-800+Beta22 especially in terms of detail and soundstage but it was good enough for me to want to hear them out of a proper setup... so I sold my HD800 to fund a used KGSS which should arrive sometime next week. I'm pretty sure that I will buy another HD800 eventually but this might change if the KGSS+O2 is REALLY good.

 So what improvements can I expect from the srd-7? Basically I'm hoping for a bass that trumps the HD-800 bass (which is probably the best I've ever heard) and more detail._

 


 Let us know what you think after you listen to the KGSS. Very curious...


----------



## edstrelow

I can't tell from your posting if your SRD7 transformer is low or high bias. If low, them any of the bigger high bias amps will be a revealation with an 007. If it's high bias, there seems to be a consensus that dediacted headphone amps give more detail, sometimes at the expense of some dynamics, unless you go for one of the super amps like the BHSE.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received the sr-007 and have been listening to them for about a week. I was utterly surprised by how good they were even underdriven. In the mean time, I have already sold my HD800 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 !!

 Actually, the sr-007+srd-7+Beta22 was definitely not as good in most areas compared to HD-800+Beta22 especially in terms of detail and soundstage but it was good enough for me to want to hear them out of a proper setup... so I sold my HD800 to fund a used KGSS which should arrive sometime next week. I'm pretty sure that I will buy another HD800 eventually but this might change if the KGSS+O2 is REALLY good.

 So what improvements can I expect from the srd-7? Basically I'm hoping for a bass that trumps the HD-800 bass (which is probably the best I've ever heard) and more detail._


----------



## sup?

I dont know if this is the right topic to ask, I guess it is...


 The danish prices are a little random, and are often way overpriced and sometimes cheaper than the rest of the world. So i'd like to know, is Stax SR-202& SRM-310 for 1100$ a good offer? it has to be a fair bit cheaper in the rest of the world for me to uy outside denmark, to avoid additional transport fees and such.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sup?* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dont know if this is the right topic to ask, I guess it is...


 The danish prices are a little random, and are often way overpriced and sometimes cheaper than the rest of the world. So i'd like to know, is Stax SR-202& SRM-310 for 1100$ a good offer? it has to be a fair bit cheaper in the rest of the world for me to uy outside denmark, to avoid additional transport fees and such._

 

That seems high, but not ridiculously so if the amplifier voltage is set for your area (220 volts I guess?). 

 I have seen these sets going for a lot less, I think one is still on Audiogon and Headfi sales for about $600.00. The downside is that it is set for 100 volts (Japanese voltage) and it uses an outboard transformer. You would probably need to buy another such transformer.


----------



## sup?

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That seems high, but not ridiculously so if the amplifier voltage is set for your area (220 volts I guess?). 

 I have seen these sets going for a lot less, I think one is still on Audiogon and Headfi sales for about $600.00. The downside is that it is set for 100 volts (Japanese voltage) and it uses an outboard transformer. You would probably need to buy another such transformer._

 

Guess its not so much a rip-off then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. yeah the amp voltage is probably set for my area. So the question is then, is this setup worth 1100$ ? havent actually had the chance to hear them


----------



## Tidal

hmmm, I am looking for the limited 404 from Japan.
 Will the SRD-7 not pro not mkII not SB work with the earspeaker without an amp? (Directly paired from PC or tiny-USBDAC)


----------



## Tidal

hmmm, I am looking for the limited 404 from Japan.
 Will the SRD-7 not pro not mkII not SB work with the earspeaker without an amp? (Directly paired from PC or tiny-USBDAC)


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That seems high, but not ridiculously so if the amplifier voltage is set for your area (220 volts I guess?). 

 I have seen these sets going for a lot less, I think one is still on Audiogon and Headfi sales for about $600.00. The downside is that it is set for 100 volts (Japanese voltage) and it uses an outboard transformer. You would probably need to buy another such transformer._

 

I would say that approximately 90% of all Stax amps ever made can be configured for another voltage without doing that much work, so you would just about never need to buy a stepdown for stax amps.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Why is the SRD7 here selling for $350? 

 I bought a Lambda Normal and an SRD-7 for $350 total. Seems kind of ? Or have they become rare?

 Sigh. Going to take a long time to get back into Stax. Only have $300 so far. lol That is ear pad $$ for some of your setups.

 At least I have a decent source and amp. That is a start.


----------



## n3rdling

That's 350 for the SRD7 with a pro bias output. They don't come up for sale often and when they do there is a bidding war that takes place. 

 Why do you need one of those SRD7's for a normal bias lambda? Get an SRD6 (~$40) or a normal bias SRD7 (~$100).


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you are anything like me, you will abandon ship. Myself and anther form member got our 02 rigs about the same time and pretty much bailed out on dynamic cans after that. 

 In fact, the O2 purchase lead me to by the portable SR-001 which I also love after only 8 hours of burn. They are not perfect but do go low and sound 100% STAX. THe big complaint on these is the softer top end but this is good to me as it eliminates listening fatigue and there is no detail missing. 

 Enjoy!_

 

Well I will probably get the HD800 anyways but if I get really into stax then my Beta22 will go.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..way to go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 β22 -> SRD-7 Pro -> SR-007 is very nice indeed, although it certainly can be improved on. So parting with the HD800 to go KGSS seems like a smart choice.

 Makes me wonder if I really want to part with the O2 anyway. It is not like I really need the money... Hmmm_

 

Can I ask: Is there any reason that you didn't go for a dedicated Stax amp and use your other amps exclusively with the K1000?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let us know what you think after you listen to the KGSS. Very curious..._

 

Will do!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't tell from your posting if your SRD7 transformer is low or high bias. If low, them any of the bigger high bias amps will be a revealation with an 007. If it's high bias, there seems to be a consensus that dediacted headphone amps give more detail, sometimes at the expense of some dynamics, unless you go for one of the super amps like the BHSE._

 

It's high bias. I would be REALLY surprised if a normal bias transformer makes the Omega2 sounds good!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sup?* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dont know if this is the right topic to ask, I guess it is...


 The danish prices are a little random, and are often way overpriced and sometimes cheaper than the rest of the world. So i'd like to know, is Stax SR-202& SRM-310 for 1100$ a good offer? it has to be a fair bit cheaper in the rest of the world for me to uy outside denmark, to avoid additional transport fees and such._

 

That's horrificly expensive. The best place to get cheap stax is to buy used at Yahoo auctions Japan through Kuboten. Craig at Kuboten can help you change the voltage if the voltage is switchable. You can get (for example) Lambda Signature and a SRM-3 for around USD$450.


----------



## Currawong

I picked up a pair of Lambda Nova Signatures with new pads and foam for $220 off of Yahoo Auctions here. Best purchase I ever made. Unfortunately I have to give back the 007t I borrowed to use with them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I shall be DIY'ing an amp to use with them soon I hope though. 

 Lately though I've been rotating through HD-800s, LNS and HF-2s when listening, as each covers what I feel like when I'm in different moods. I hope to eventually build a top O2 rig, but that is going to take a while I think, due to the costs involved.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say that approximately 90% of all Stax amps ever made can be configured for another voltage without doing that much work, so you would just about never need to buy a stepdown for stax amps._

 

I don't think so. The older models had an external plug for this purposewhich was dead easy to change. But since then Stax is making the change much harder to cut out gray market sales which bypass local distributers. I don't think even EIFL will do a voltage change now although they did it for my 3-4 year old 717.


----------



## spritzer

You can change the voltage on nearly every Stax amp if you know what you are doing. The rest take even more work but it can be done.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tidal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmm, I am looking for the limited 404 from Japan.
 Will the SRD-7 not pro not mkII not SB work with the earspeaker without an amp? (Directly paired from PC or tiny-USBDAC)_

 

Well...
 1. I will not work without an amplifier feeding it.
 2. The SRD-7 (not Pro, not MK2) is Normal bias, while the SR-404 Limited is Pro bias. It will work, but not a perfect combination.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I ask: Is there any reason that you didn't go for a dedicated Stax amp and use your other amps exclusively with the K1000?_

 

Quite simple really!
 When I was looking for a "real" electrostatic amplifier last year and the year prior there were none available that fit my requirements.
 * Fully balanced.
 * Two box unit (separate power and amplifier chassis).
 * Well designed and solid built.

 Since then the HeadAmp KGBH SE, Woo Audio WES and RSA A10 have shown up. But too late for me since I had already spent my money on the K1000, Signature 30.2 and Isabellina.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


 * Two box unit (separate power and amplifier chassis). 
 

Not always a good thing mind you, going with a two box approach supposedly introduces issues with capacitance etc, so unless you're dealing with someone who knows their stuff ie Justin, beware.


----------



## krmathis

^ I know, hence my third requirement as well.
  Quote:


 * Well designed and solid built.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can change the voltage on nearly every Stax amp if you know what you are doing. The rest take even more work but it can be done._

 

Raise your hands everyone who has changed the voltage on a current model Stax amp.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

<couldn't, wouldn't, shouldn't..


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Raise your hands everyone who has changed the voltage on a current model Stax amp._

 

Raise you hand everybody who has rebuilt the engine in your car?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Raise your hands everyone who has changed the voltage on a current model Stax amp._

 

Raises hand.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Raise your hands everyone who has changed the voltage on a current model Stax amp._

 

<< Raised hand.>> You'll have to go inside the power transformer to reconnect the 117V primary wires that are snipped off. Kind of a pain, but not impossible if you are patient and determined.


----------



## Tachikoma

Never had a current model Stax amp but I've never had an amp I couldn't change the voltage on.


----------



## Tidal

Now I have a chance to get an entry system of electrostatics headphone.
 They are SRM-300 and SR-404.
 The problem is I don't know that they work in a harmonious way. Do they fit well?
 And as I have never used or heard any electrostatics sound, does the 404 sound better than AD2000? (it's my current phones)

 Thank You


----------



## spacemanspliff

I don't know about the srm-300 but the 404 is in a different universe compared to the ad2000. It is worth the $$ to upgrade yes.


----------



## kh6idf

I read a review where the srm-300 was compared to the srm-252II which I am using (with sr-202) and the 300 was said to be noticeably better. I haven't heard the sr-404 / srm-300 combination, but I think they would work well together. The srm-300 has the same gain (54db) and a slightly higher maximum voltage (350 vs 300) compared to the srm-006TII amp that is sold with the sr-404, so just going by the specifications it looks like they would be compatible.


----------



## edstrelow

The voltage swing of the SRM300, looks good, 350 volts,comparable to the SRM1Mk2. But the wattage is low, 10 vs 33 for the SRM1. So am not sure how this would play out in practice.


----------



## Tidal

Does this difference in watts mean the SRM300 may not be able to drive the sr-404 properly?


----------



## shotmaker

I have a question concerning Stax Energizers: 
 What is the difference between the SRD-7mk2 and its self-biaising version, the SRD-7SB mk2 ? Is one more preferable than the other for a particular use? I have the choice to buy both and I wondering which one will be the better if I plan on getting the 404 LE or the Jade in the future.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shotmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question concerning Stax Energizers: 
 What is the difference between the SRD-7mk2 and its self-biaising version, the SRD-7SB mk2 ? Is one more preferable than the other for a particular use? I have the choice to buy both and I wondering which one will be the better if I plan on getting the 404 LE or the Jade in the future._

 

I'm not sure if "SRD-7SB mk2" exists but self-biasing (SB) means it gets the bias voltage from the speaker outputs of your amp so you don't need to plug it into the mains. You just need to make sure you get a pro bias one if you plan on using it with the 404LE or Jade.


----------



## XXII

Could someone tell me what is a fair price for a gamma pro / sr-alpha pro excellent in decent condition?


----------



## shotmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure if "SRD-7SB mk2" exists but self-biasing (SB) means it gets the bias voltage from the speaker outputs of your amp so you don't need to plug it into the mains. You just need to make sure you get a pro bias one if you plan on using it with the 404LE or Jade._

 

Thx for the answer. It apparently exists, but seems quite rare. I am wondering if in terms of powering the headphones, it would be safer to use the SRD-7 mk2 rather than the self-biaising version, given I don't have a super powerful power amp?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shotmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am wondering if in terms of powering the headphones, it would be safer to use the SRD-7 mk2 rather than the self-biaising version, given I don't have a super powerful power amp?_

 

No, it doesn't matter since the selfbiasing circuit does consume close to nothing.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shotmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thx for the answer. It apparently exists, but seems quite rare. I am wondering if in terms of powering the headphones, it would be safer to use the SRD-7 mk2 rather than the self-biaising version, given I don't have a super powerful power amp?_

 

Well then, I think you should get the SRD-7SBmk2 just based on it's rarity.


----------



## shotmaker

will do, thx to both of you for the info.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure if "SRD-7SB mk2" exists but self-biasing (SB) means it gets the bias voltage from the speaker outputs of your amp so you don't need to plug it into the mains. You just need to make sure you get a pro bias one if you plan on using it with the 404LE or Jade._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone tell me what is a fair price for a gamma pro / sr-alpha pro excellent in decent condition?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well then, I think you should get the SRD-7SBmk2 just based on it's rarity._

 

I have the SRD-7 Mk2 SB and it's very nice to not have to plug it into the wall. It also appears to sound a little better than my SRD-7 Pro 110v unit (not a mark 2) when using it with O2 Mk1. We also compared it to Blutarsky's SRD-7 Mk2 110v, and both Mk2 sound pretty close to each other (so they'd both be a little better than my Pro).

 As for the Gamma Pro, mine cost me about $350 in good condition.


----------



## Tidal

Sorry people, but this is quite an emergency.
 Does the difference in watts between SRM1Mk2 and SRM-300 to drive the sr-404 mean the SRM300 may not be able to drive the sr-404 properly? 

 And does the SRM-300 drive sr-404 limited as same as it does when used with the sr-404

 Thank you.


----------



## insyte

I have the srm-1mkII. Can this only drive the lambdas? Can this drive a normal bias sigma? Will this be listenable with an O2 or is this combo a mortal sin?


----------



## Tachikoma

Its not horrible, but obviously you'll want more


----------



## progo

A man came by this afternoon and I gave him my trusty Stax setup. I miss them already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Luckily he's just loaning them and returns them within a couple of months. :insertheresomenicestaxsmileyifwehadone::floatsmil e:


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *insyte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the srm-1mkII. Can this only drive the lambdas? Can this drive a normal bias sigma? Will this be listenable with an O2 or is this combo a mortal sin?_

 

You can drive normal bias Sigmas if you have alow bias output, most SRM1Mk2's do. I run both a normal Sigma and a Sigma/404 from mine. The 007 will work but it won't give its best results. On the other hand do you want to spring for a super amp such as the BHSE at $5,000.00?


----------



## Bullseye

Well, today I finally got my Basic system. Had to buy a power adapter that would suit my country with correct polarity and power and I set everything correctly. 

 I gave them a first listen and they are great. Very comfy (even if I need to use the pads more so they get softer), and great sound, including bass. It is too soon to "compare" it vs my dynamics, but so far I like.


----------



## El_Doug

congrats! the 202's are really great headphones - i'm sure you'll get much enjoyment out of them


----------



## Bullseye

Thanks. I have noticed one thing that bothers me, though.

 It also happened with the Fostex T50RP and I deduced it had to do with thee type of driver. There is a static sound coming from my DAC/AMP. When I put my hand on top of the player it seems I act as ground and that static (or loop) stops sounding. Do you know anything I can do to avoid it? 

 It doesn't bother once the music is on, but between tracks I can listen to it, and I would prefer if that weren't there.

 It also happens when I touch the metal body of my laptop (dell xps) when it is being powered up. As soon as I unplug it there is no more static. I have seen that the static when my hand is touching the laptop only goes to one channel. Right channel on the fostex, left channel through the sr-202.


----------



## Bullseye

Well, been listening more now and I realized the ground loop or static sound became a bit more noticeable. There might be more than one reason for it, but I would like to take that out. 

 First of all the power adapter's jack doesn't fit exactly like the stax one, some metal side is left on one side. That could cause some static. Second, the wall adapter doesn't have ground -similar to the stax one-. Third, the wall socket in which I connect my amp/DAC doesn't have ground pin. 

 What solutions could I look for (I know, as number one to change the power adpter for one that fits exactly) leaving for the last changing the wall socket in which I connect my equipment?


----------



## kh6idf

Bullseye,

 Good to hear your 2050II system has arrived! I continue to enjoy mine.

 I hope you are able to resolve the static issue. I would try switching components to isolate the problem.. If you have a standalone CD player try using that instead of the laptop/dac and see if the noise is still there.

 I just ordered a set of the sr-404 limited sheepskin leather earpads from Japan and will replace the stock pads on my sr-202 when they arrive. These were expensive, but should be more comfortable as they 'breathe' better than the stock vinyl pads and should last many more years. But the stock pads are not bad really unless the room temperature is a bit warm.

 If your adapter plug doesn't fit the srm-252 well, you could cut the cord off the Stax adapter and your new adapter and splice the wires to use the Stax plug with your new adapter (I think I mentioned this before in an earlier post.)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bullseye,

 I just ordered a set of the sr-404 limited sheepskin leather earpads from Japan and will replace the stock pads on my sr-202 when they arrive. These were expensive, but should be more comfortable as they 'breathe' better than the stock vinyl pads and should last many more years. But the stock pads are not bad really unless the room temperature is a bit warm.
_

 

Where do you get these and how much?


----------



## Bullseye

Well, it is not the 2050II, but the 2050A (don't know if there is actually any difference apart from the wall adapter)

 I also thought about getting some pads from the sr404 or similar, but they are expensive and the ones from the 202 are good enough as for now. 

 About the adapter I had thought about what you said, however the adapter has voltage change and different plugs (so it has a lot of functionality). I prefer first to take the driver unit to the shop with the old adapter and try to see if they have any other (with correct polarity) that will fit as well as the STAX adapter does. If that is not the case I will try to see if they have one very cheap that can be used with mine, and change the plugs.

 Will have to check next week, though.

 Even so I enjoy a lot the complete open nature of this earspeakers. Lets see how they go once I get used to them. They are definitely the thing I was looking for in terms of comfort.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bullseye,

 Good to hear your 2050II system has arrived! I continue to enjoy mine.

 I hope you are able to resolve the static issue. I would try switching components to isolate the problem.. If you have a standalone CD player try using that instead of the laptop/dac and see if the noise is still there.

 I just ordered a set of the sr-404 limited sheepskin leather earpads from Japan and will replace the stock pads on my sr-202 when they arrive. These were expensive, but should be more comfortable as they 'breathe' better than the stock vinyl pads and should last many more years. But the stock pads are not bad really unless the room temperature is a bit warm.

 If your adapter plug doesn't fit the srm-252 well, you could cut the cord off the Stax adapter and your new adapter and splice the wires to use the Stax plug with your new adapter (I think I mentioned this before in an earlier post.)_


----------



## kh6idf

bullseye - The 2050a and 2050II are identical except for the different wall adapter. 2050II has a US 120V adapter and 2050a has a 100V adapter for the Japanese domestic market.

 edstrelow,

 I first discovered these pads are available when I saw this Japanese web page where they are replacing their SR-303 pads with the 404 limited ones (never mind the stange characters, just click on the link..)

SLAPSTICK MOON. » ã€ŒEP-234 LIMITEDã€ã‚’SR-303ã«å–ã‚Šä»˜ã‘ã¦ã¿ãŸ

 Then I found a seller in Japan on ebay selling what were described as sr-202 pads "hand made with high-quality leather". When I inquired about these and asked if they were indeed the model EP-234 as seen on the site above, they directed me to another of their ads, namely this one:

STAX Ear Pads for SR-404 LIMITED - eBay (item 200391655019 end time Nov-05-09 05:50:05 PST)

 These also say "hand made with high-quality leather" but they said these were the pads for the 404 limited. The higher price ($115) seems to suggest they are the ones I was looking for. They should be here in another week or so, I think the recent storm that hit Japan may have slowed them down a few days if they didn't get out before it arrived.


----------



## spritzer

Those are very nice pads but they aren't really drop in replacements for other Lambda pads since they are quite a bit thinner and more in line with the original 1978 prototype earpads. They will fit but the sound will change with them.


----------



## kh6idf

I wonder how much the sound will change? Apparently they worked OK with the sr-303 from the description on the Japanese site (using Google to translate) and the sr-202 should be no different. I would hate to remove my stock pads and put these on then discover I didn't like the sound and had to order some more double stick tape to switch back.

 Isn't the 404 limited the same driver and housing (other than color) as the stock 404/303? And I believe the housing is the same for the 202 but with a different driver.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. I have noticed one thing that bothers me, though.

 It also happened with the Fostex T50RP and I deduced it had to do with thee type of driver. There is a static sound coming from my DAC/AMP. When I put my hand on top of the player it seems I act as ground and that static (or loop) stops sounding. Do you know anything I can do to avoid it? 

 It doesn't bother once the music is on, but between tracks I can listen to it, and I would prefer if that weren't there.

 It also happens when I touch the metal body of my laptop (dell xps) when it is being powered up. As soon as I unplug it there is no more static. I have seen that the static when my hand is touching the laptop only goes to one channel. Right channel on the fostex, left channel through the sr-202._

 

I notice this too, a low frequency hum that I can hear through the earspeakers. It stops (in both channels) when I touch the case of my CDP or amp. The sound is very faint, so I can't hear it when music is playing. I'm wondering though, whether this means that there's an electrical connection between the earspeakers and myself. It must be, because else it means that my body is producing an alternating electric field to which the diaphragm of the earspeaker reacts. That seems very unlikely to me.
 I have no clue how to solve this, unfortunately. If anyone here does, please tell us. It's not the fault of the SR-202, because other 'phones have it too.

 Secondly, I must say that the SR-202 is a fabulous pair of headphones! I recently bought one (from Spritzer) and it has surpassed my expectations. It's tonal balance is exactly right for my tastes and it does well in the PRaT department, which is important for me. I might just have found my perfect pair of headphones! The slightly strange midrange of the Lambda Signatures and their sometimes stinging highs are gone, so everything sounds very natural yet not too smooth. The only (small) negative point is that the soundstage could be a little deeper. It is mostly wide now, but this could be caused by my source. Soundstage is not very important to me. Of course I like the airyness and openness of my HE60 a lot, but in the end the better balanced sound of the SR-202 makes this one my favourite.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't the 404 limited the same driver and housing (other than color) as the stock 404/303? And I believe the housing is the same for the 202 but with a different driver._

 

That's correct.


----------



## kh6idf

Just got word that the 404 limited pads have been shipped from Japan so I should have them sometime next week. I'll post my impressions when I have listened with the new pads for a few hours.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Regarding the ground noise. Have you tried turning the plug around at the wall socket? I had this exact problem with a vintage amp. Switcing around the plug solved it. Happens with two prong plugs. Worth a try.


----------



## kelvinz

Do you guys store your SR007 in the carying case or just leave it on the wooden stax headphone stand? 

 Sometimes when I don't listen to them for more than a week I find the pads get deformed(temporarily) by the stand due to its shape?


----------



## Duggeh

I always put mine back in the flight case.


----------



## les_garten

Are the ESL Headphones more receptive to dust attraction than ESL speakers?

 Perhaps I should be boxing up that 400# of ESL speakers in my living room every night!


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the ground noise. Have you tried turning the plug around at the wall socket? I had this exact problem with a vintage amp. Switcing around the plug solved it. Happens with two prong plugs. Worth a try._

 

I haven't tried this, but I will do so. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I notice this too, a low frequency hum that I can hear through the earspeakers. It stops (in both channels) when I touch the case of my CDP or amp. The sound is very faint, so I can't hear it when music is playing. I'm wondering though, whether this means that there's an electrical connection between the earspeakers and myself. It must be, because else it means that my body is producing an alternating electric field to which the diaphragm of the earspeaker reacts. That seems very unlikely to me.
 I have no clue how to solve this, unfortunately. If anyone here does, please tell us. It's not the fault of the SR-202, because other 'phones have it too._

 

It is exactly as you described it. However I have also realized that the hum or static becomes louder the more the driver unit is turned on. I did a listening session of 1.30 hours, and at the end the sound was more annoying.

 This does not happen with dynamic headphones. 

 Oh I also forgot to mention, that when the headphones are plugged into the driver unit, after the source, dac and driver are turned off (after some usage), the hum is still there. Really faint this time, and it also disappears if I act as ground.

 I am thinking about using something that could act as ground. Don't know what might work, though.

  Quote:


 Secondly, I must say that the SR-202 is a fabulous pair of headphones! I recently bought one (from Spritzer) and it has surpassed my expectations. It's tonal balance is exactly right for my tastes and it does well in the PRaT department, which is important for me. I might just have found my perfect pair of headphones! The slightly strange midrange of the Lambda Signatures and their sometimes stinging highs are gone, so everything sounds very natural yet not too smooth. The only (small) negative point is that the soundstage could be a little deeper. It is mostly wide now, but this could be caused by my source. Soundstage is not very important to me. Of course I like the airyness and openness of my HE60 a lot, but in the end the better balanced sound of the SR-202 makes this one my favourite. 
 

Hmm, so you said you like the SR202 better than the HE60... That is good to know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Will listen to some dynamics before getting back to stats.


----------



## ical

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kelvinz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys store your SR007 in the carying case or just leave it on the wooden stax headphone stand? 

 Sometimes when I don't listen to them for more than a week I find the pads get deformed(temporarily) by the stand due to its shape?_

 

I always leave mine on my Sieveking Sound Omega stand with Stax "raincoat". My listening room air conditioner is on most of the time with addition of dehumidifier to keep all my rigs and it's software in good shape.


----------



## Clarkmc2

I have three teenage kids, nine cats and five dogs. They are either on my head or in the case!

 Clark


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ical* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always leave mine on my Sieveking Sound Omega stand with Stax "raincoat". My listening room air conditioner is on most of the time with addition of dehumidifier to keep all my rigs and it's software in good shape._

 

NPNT


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder how much the sound will change? Apparently they worked OK with the sr-303 from the description on the Japanese site (using Google to translate) and the sr-202 should be no different. I would hate to remove my stock pads and put these on then discover I didn't like the sound and had to order some more double stick tape to switch back._

 

On the SR-007 the height of the earpads will do a lot to change the midrange and the angle will change the perceived soundstage. 

 You will be hard pressed to get the earpads off without damaging them. That tape Stax uses in nasty to say the least. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isn't the 404 limited the same driver and housing (other than color) as the stock 404/303? And I believe the housing is the same for the 202 but with a different driver._

 

Same driver housing but given how different the LE and stock headphone sounds, they changed something on the inside. The SR-007 Mk1 and Mk2 have identical drivers but they sure don't sound the same.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kelvinz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys store your SR007 in the carying case or just leave it on the wooden stax headphone stand?_

 

These days it rest in the flight case.
 But when it is/were in daily use it were stored on the Stax stand, covered by a Stax dust cover. No issues so far...


----------



## kh6idf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the SR-007 the height of the earpads will do a lot to change the midrange and the angle will change the perceived soundstage. 

 You will be hard pressed to get the earpads off without damaging them. That tape Stax uses in nasty to say the least. _

 

OK, so I may end up damaging the original pads to try this experiment (although I will attempt to remove them carefully). If it sounds OK with the 404 limited pads it doesn't matter too much. If it doesn't sound as good then worst case I might have to order another set of 202 pads to get it back to stock configuration. 

 I also wondered if it really needed the thickness of the stock pads to sound right, if a spacer of the right material, flat on both sides with an oval cutout, could be used between the 202 housing and the 404 limited pad? From what little I am able to translate from Japan on the 303 used with 404 limited pads, this wasn't necessary.

 I must be the first here to attempt this - I can't find any mention in this thread of anyone else putting the 404 limited pads on a 202 or 303.


----------



## spritzer

You might like the change given how good the 404LE is so I wouldn't worry about it too much.


----------



## kh6idf

Yes, I will just try it and see how it goes. I found an old post where they inserted the spacer I was talking about. So no matter what the optimum spacing turns out to be, it should be possible to make the 404 LE pads work on the sr-202, even it it takes a little extra effort.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Regarding the hum issue: just use a piece of wire and connect the amp's case to the ground, guys (check the back of the unit, my SRM-313 has a kind of knob, I don't know how to describe into English, precisely for this purpose). I had the same problem and grounding the case of solved it.


----------



## Bullseye

I have seen what you mean on this pict:





 It is that metal knob next to the inputs.

 But the srm-252 unit doesn't have it:





 Could you post a pict of your system to see how it si done. Maybe we can do something similar to this driver unit, but connecting a cable from the screw to the case.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the hum issue: just use a piece of wire and connect the amp's case to the ground, guys (check the back of the unit, my SRM-313 has a kind of knob, I don't know how to describe into English, precisely for this purpose). I had the same problem and grounding the case of solved it._

 

Keithpgdrb, I did what you said and it helped. Now the hum issue is less noticeable than before, even after some time playing. However it is still there and noticeable between tracks. I know the solution is the grounding issue, as when I put my hand on the cover of the driver unit I act as ground.

 Hope I can fix the hum issue soon. I'd like to have my system working as perfect as possible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enjoying the headphones so far.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have seen what you mean on this pict:






 It is that metal knob next to the inputs.

 But the srm-252 unit doesn't have it:





 Could you post a pict of your system to see how it si done. Maybe we can do something similar to this driver unit, but connecting a cable from the screw to the case.



 Keithpgdrb, I did what you said and it helped. Now the hum issue is less noticeable than before, even after some time playing. However it is still there and noticeable between tracks. I know the solution is the grounding issue, as when I put my hand on the cover of the driver unit I act as ground.

 Hope I can fix the hum issue soon. I'd like to have my system working as perfect as possible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enjoying the headphones so far._

 

Maybe you could use one of those two philips screws as a place to attach a ground wire?


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe you could use one of those two philips screws as a place to attach a ground wire?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe we can do something similar to this driver unit, but connecting a cable from the screw to the case._

 

Thanks for backing up my idea 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 However I would still like to see how don quichotte did so.


----------



## Michgelsen

I haven't got any wire here that I could use to ground the case, but I will try when I get some.

 I'm still curious what the cause of the hum is. Does something leak somewhere, or is it induced by something else?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't got any wire here that I could use to ground the case, but I will try when I get some.

 I'm still curious what the cause of the hum is. Does something leak somewhere, or is it induced by something else?_

 

Is your audio gear (indirectly, e.g. since a HT receiver is connected to the RCA outs of your amp) connected to a TV cable, no matter whether it's an inhouse satelite antenna or cable TV?
 That's the main reason for hum ......


----------



## mrarroyo

Not all cases are part of the ground system, someone should verify it before attempting it. Good luck.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is your audio gear (indirectly, e.g. since a HT receiver is connected to the RCA outs of your amp) connected to a TV cable, no matter whether it's an inhouse satelite antenna or cable TV?
 That's the main reason for hum ......_

 

No, it isn't. The mains socket is also not grounded.


----------



## Bullseye

Any picts coming, don quichotte?


----------



## kh6idf

I received my SR-404 LE leather earpads (EP-234 Limited) from Japan today (1 week after placing my order), that I am going to install on my SR-202. They are a bit thinner, but it looks like it will work. The actual thickness when held up against the original pads is not actually that much thinner but the stock pads seem to have more foam inside, making them appear fuller, and the vinyl is stiffer, not as flexible as the leather so it holds its shape more when I try to compress it. All this adds up to a thicker appearing pad that makes the earcups sit a little farther away from my head. Another thing that may offset this difference is the dustcovers included with the pads sit down inside the oval cutout while the original foam sits on top of the surface so another maybe 1/8 inch is gained in inside depth.

 I am taking this SRS-2050II setup to the Houston meet on Saturday, and I plan on leaving the stock pads on for several reasons. One reason is so people can hear the SR-202 "stock" so if they are interested in buying a pair they will know how they sound. Also, changing to the 404 limited pads will at best not degrade the sound and may make it slightly worse although reports I have read about these pads on the sr-303 indicate there is very little change in the sound quality. Lastly, I might as well put the wear and tear at the meet on the old vinyl pads!

 So I will probably change the pads Sunday and report on what if any difference it makes. I am hoping they sound as good with the new pads as they should be more comfortable and more durable too.


----------



## XXII

Please do post your impressions. Where did you get them from? How much did they cost?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my SR-404 LE leather earpads (EP-234 Limited) from Japan today (1 week after placing my order), that I am going to install on my SR-202. They are a bit thinner, but it looks like it will work. The actual thickness when held up against the original pads is not actually that much thinner but the stock pads seem to have more foam inside, making them appear fuller, and the vinyl is stiffer, not as flexible as the leather so it holds its shape more when I try to compress it. All this adds up to a thicker appearing pad that makes the earcups sit a little farther away from my head. Another thing that may offset this difference is the dustcovers included with the pads sit down inside the oval cutout while the original foam sits on top of the surface so another maybe 1/8 inch is gained in inside depth._


----------



## kh6idf

I found them on ebay, seller's name was "joynetcafe", I believe. They were $115 including express (fast!) shipping from Japan.
 Expensive, but I figure they will outlast the vinyl pads and be more comfortable (less ear sweating).

 They are Stax part # EP234-LIMITED.

 The ad will have the word "limited" in it for these pads.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any picts coming, don quichotte?_

 

Sorry, I've been quite busy lately and haven't checked Head-fi since my last posting date.

 I don't have a photo camera at the moment, but there's actually not much to see. As you have already figured out, it's the silvery knob on the back of my SRM-313. It's a small metal stick with a cross-cut hole in it and a metal cover. One has to unscrew the metal cover to gain access to the whole, insert the metal wire used for connecting to ground through this hole, then screw the metal cover back so that it presses against the wire and fixes it in the hole. In my case, the other end of the wire goes to the central heating metal radiator nearby. As I said, grounding was necessary and sufficient in my case.

 Given your 252's lack of such a knob, I would either use one of those philips screws or, just to go for the unusual, I would buy a very cheap RCA connector, solder the wire to its ground and connect it to one of the two unused RCA sockets. Provided you don't use the RCA loop, of course.


----------



## Bullseye

^Thanks for the info don quichotte. No, I don't use the RCA loop. However what is the use for it?


----------



## SemiAudiophile

does anyone know what the rating is on the fuse of the SRM-T1?


----------



## Jabba

After reading about 4070 here at Head-fi a couple of weeks ago I went to a store to demo them. 
 Ended up buying them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I prefer a closed can for use at home, so my girl can watch tv and listen to radio at the same time. 
 I also often listen to music till late in the evenings.
 I´ve connected the 006t directly from my redbook, a Musical Fidelity A5.
 I can definitely say that these are a few steps above my 404 sig.
 I read that some of you recommend a better amp for these then my 006t, but for now I´m in head-fi nirvana. 

 I love Head-fi for opening my eyes to serious head-fi.
 My wallet hates you though..


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^Thanks for the info don quichotte. No, I don't use the RCA loop. However what is the use for it?_

 

You could use it to run two headphone amps off of one source or the headphone amp and a preamp from the pass through. I would never recommend doing that from a sound quality perspective as the RCA connectors are not of the best quality and you would go through an extra set of cables and connector.


----------



## Duckman

Thinking about replacing the pads on my Lambdas but have never performed this procedure before. Is it just a matter of tearing the old ones off and whacking the new set on? Do the new pads have adhesive?

 Cheers,

 Dave


----------



## Duckman

Thinking about replacing the pads on my Lambdas but have never performed this procedure before. Is it just a matter of tearing the old ones off and whacking the new set on? Do the new pads have adhesive?

 Cheers,

 Dave


----------



## krmathis

^ Yes to both questions.


----------



## kh6idf

I just replaced the pads on my SR-202 this morning with the leather pads from the 404 Limted Edition. Stax part number is EP234-LIMITED. It took about 2 hours because the adhesive tape is VERY sticky and hard to remove. I managed to get the old pads off with minimal damage but I think it did stretch out the protective foam covering the inside of the driver a bit.

 The new pads have a separate protective element of some sort of woven cloth that drops in the oval cutout and seems to be a much better system. After cleaning all the old tape off (using 91% alcohol and a microfiber cloth), the new double sided adhesive was applied and the leather pads stuck down. It seems like the leather pad can be removed with a little less effort than the vinyl, but it is still stuck down very well.

 Here's some pictures, the pads are a bit thinner and the drivers may be a little closer to the ears but if the ear touches the inner protective element I can hardly feel it and it is not irritating at all. I haven't used them for any length of time but the 5 minutes or so I tried them there was no sign of ears sweating.

 I had most of my rig disassembled form yesterday's Houston head-fi meet (will post pics later this afternoon or this evening) so I just listened to the CD player output into the SRM-252 without using my usual external DAC. Also the SRM-252 did not have a chance to warm up and I know this improves the sound a little once it does. Still, the sound is mostly unchanged, perhaps a very small decrease in the spaciousness or soundstage, but this may be due to not using the external DAC. But the overall balance did not seem to change. I will listen more extensively tonight once I reassemble my gear and let everything warm up.

http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2001.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2002.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2005.jpg


----------



## kinsale

Hi 

 Can anyone tell me anything about the SRA-3S Amp?? I am close to buying it along with some SR-5. I already have some SR-X MKIII and was wondering if this amp would go well with them.

 Any guidance at all would be appreciated!

 Thanks
 Ian


----------



## Duckman

Thanks krmathis and kh6idf.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kinsale* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi 

 Can anyone tell me anything about the SRA-3S Amp?? I am close to buying it along with some SR-5. I already have some SR-X MKIII and was wondering if this amp would go well with them.

 Any guidance at all would be appreciated!

 Thanks
 Ian_

 

The SRA-3s is a preamp and headphone amp combined. It accepts phono and line level inputs and has a dual 6CG7/6FQ7 output stage for the Stax headphones, as well as variable volume level output for a power amp. It sounded much better than the later SRA 12s, but doesn't look quite as nice in my opinion. It only has normal bias outputs. These SRA amps run really flaming hot as they are Class A - they must be well ventilated and I would suggest a good internal clean (by a professional maybe?) before usage. In my opinion, it sounded excellent.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thinking about replacing the pads on my Lambdas but have never performed this procedure before. Is it just a matter of tearing the old ones off and whacking the new set on? Do the new pads have adhesive?

 Cheers,

 Dave_

 

Dave,
 1. tear off old pads.
 2. clean off remaining sticky mess with alcohol - not as easy as it sounds.
 3. make sure the pads are oriented correctly before replacement. Remember, the headphone cases have a thicker front and thinner back. The pads are meant to have the thickest part of the pad at the backs and the bottoms of the driver cases so they can seal correctly around the ear/jaw line.
 4. For the older style pads with mesh and pads as a single unit,once correctly oriented, remove the paper covering the stickum and press the pads until they are stuck to the plate.
 5. The newer pads have a separate mesh insert to be placed first, then remove the paper covering the stickum and press the pads home. 
 Good as new!


----------



## kh6idf

Removing all traces of the sticky tape is the most time-consuming part. The best method I found was to get a lint-free cloth (I used microfiber), soak a small area in 91% rubbing alcohol, and go over a small area, applying firm pressure and working it until all the adhesive is gone. Repeat until the whole surface is clean. With this method you can clean off the whole surface in maybe 10 minutes.


----------



## kh6idf

OK, here's my impression of the sound with the 404LE pads on my SR-202. I've listened for an hour or so with the SRM-252 amp warmed up, and everything restored to the original configuration (using external DAC, etc) I had with the "stock" SR-202 before.

 The sound has changed, the high frequencies are a little more rolled off now. But the overall balance seems to be improved, with the midrange and bass warming up slightly. It now has a well-balanced sound. My first impression with the stock sr-202 was "where's the bass?" and I thought they were slightly thin or bright sounding, but now I don't think I would have that impression if I had heard these for the first time. 

 The high frequency rolloff accounts for the slight loss in detail / air / soundstage I reported earlier. Since I have a DEQ2496 in the loop, I may try to bring the HF extension back to it's original level with some careful equalization.

 But the comfort factor has definitely improved. I can wear these for an hour or more now with no need to take them off. No ear sweating at all. This is really a good thing.

 I believe the HF rolloff may be caused by a combination of the new dust protection material (the oval-shaped woven cloth used instead of the more transparent original foam) and the leather pads absorbing / dampening the highest frequencies compared to the more reflective vinyl. It's possible the distance to the ears or the angle has changed but I don't feel this has as much influence as the filter material or the composition of the pads.

 Upon reflection, what these remind me of now is the frequency balance I heard with the SR-007 (heard them for the first time this weekend at the Houston meet). They also seemed to have a slight HF rolloff and a nice even balance across the frequency range. They also use the same filter and pad material.

 So I think the comfort improvement is worth switching to the new pads, but a little of the magic (soundstage / air / HF extension) is gone. I will see if I can bring it back with EQ but what I have right now is a nice warm, even balance, reminds me of the sound of my Magneplanar speakers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, here's my impression of the sound with the 404LE pads on my SR-202. I've listened for an hour or so with the SRM-252 amp warmed up, and everything restored to the original configuration (using external DAC, etc) I had with the "stock" SR-202 before.

 The sound has changed, the high frequencies are a little more rolled off now. But the overall balance seems to be improved, with the midrange and bass warming up slightly. It now has a well-balanced sound. My first impression with the stock sr-202 was "where's the bass?" and I thought they were slightly thin or bright sounding, but now I don't think I would have that impression if I had heard these for the first time. 

 The high frequency rolloff accounts for the slight loss in detail / air / soundstage I reported earlier. Since I have a DEQ2496 in the loop, I may try to bring the HF extension back to it's original level with some careful equalization.

 But the comfort factor has definitely improved. I can wear these for an hour or more now with no need to take them off. No ear sweating at all. This is really a good thing.

 I believe the HF rolloff may be caused by a combination of the new dust protection material (the oval-shaped woven cloth used instead of the more transparent original foam) and the leather pads absorbing / dampening the highest frequencies compared to the more reflective vinyl. It's possible the distance to the ears or the angle has changed but I don't feel this has as much influence as the filter material or the composition of the pads.

 Upon reflection, what these remind me of now is the frequency balance I heard with the SR-007 (heard them for the first time this weekend at the Houston meet). They also seemed to have a slight HF rolloff and a nice even balance across the frequency range. They also use the same filter and pad material.

 So I think the comfort improvement is worth switching to the new pads, but a little of the magic (soundstage / air / HF extension) is gone. I will see if I can bring it back with EQ but what I have right now is a nice warm, even balance, reminds me of the sound of my Magneplanar speakers._

 

That's about the sound you get from the SR404LE. Of course there are likely some other differences between a 202 and 404 with the LE pads, such as in the detail or something else, once you factor in the differences between the 404 and 202 drivers and cable. I have read that the 404 are brighter than the 202, and that is why those drivers work so well in the old vintage Sigma driver housing - so I imagine the 404 with the LE pads might not be as rolled off as the 202 with them. But I would bet that these pads do make up a lot of or most of the difference between the regular 404 that Spritzer says have the upper midrange etch and the 404LE that don't have as much or any of that.


----------



## kh6idf

My ears/brain are already adjusting to the new sound of the SR-202 with the 404LE pads. It doesn't sound rolled off anymore, just really well balanced and detailed. Plenty of bass now and a beautiful midrange. I am not going to use any EQ, my brain is rapidly acclimating and it now sounds just right.


----------



## ericj

BEYER DYNAMIC NT1000 + ET1000 ELECTROSTATIC HEADPHONES - eBay (item 320434799261 end time Oct-18-09 19:00:30 PDT)

 So is it just me or was that kind of a lot of money for someone to pay for an ET1000+N1000 that's obviously been abused and may not work properly? And at any rate will never sound right with one of the grilles missing.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, here's my impression of the sound with the 404LE pads on my SR-202. I've listened for an hour or so with the SRM-252 amp warmed up, and everything restored to the original configuration (using external DAC, etc) I had with the "stock" SR-202 before.

 The sound has changed, the high frequencies are a little more rolled off now. But the overall balance seems to be improved, with the midrange and bass warming up slightly. It now has a well-balanced sound. My first impression with the stock sr-202 was "where's the bass?" and I thought they were slightly thin or bright sounding, but now I don't think I would have that impression if I had heard these for the first time. 

 The high frequency rolloff accounts for the slight loss in detail / air / soundstage I reported earlier. Since I have a DEQ2496 in the loop, I may try to bring the HF extension back to it's original level with some careful equalization.

 But the comfort factor has definitely improved. I can wear these for an hour or more now with no need to take them off. No ear sweating at all. This is really a good thing.

 I believe the HF rolloff may be caused by a combination of the new dust protection material (the oval-shaped woven cloth used instead of the more transparent original foam) and the leather pads absorbing / dampening the highest frequencies compared to the more reflective vinyl. It's possible the distance to the ears or the angle has changed but I don't feel this has as much influence as the filter material or the composition of the pads.

 Upon reflection, what these remind me of now is the frequency balance I heard with the SR-007 (heard them for the first time this weekend at the Houston meet). They also seemed to have a slight HF rolloff and a nice even balance across the frequency range. They also use the same filter and pad material.

 So I think the comfort improvement is worth switching to the new pads, but a little of the magic (soundstage / air / HF extension) is gone. I will see if I can bring it back with EQ but what I have right now is a nice warm, even balance, reminds me of the sound of my Magneplanar speakers._

 

To be honest your impressions reflect very well my own as I have recently replaced my 303's old pads (with foam) with the new kind (with oval-shaped woven cloth) - normal pads, not LE. My system was almost perfectly balanced before, maybe just a bit rolled off in the highs (!). I definitely concur that the new pads loose some of the magic of the old ones, but it's not necessarily related to the highs - more to the mids IMO - and it is not entirely because of the cloth. Actually, *it's the pads themselves that "loose the magic"*, the cloth only darkens the sound, adding bass and rolling off treble as well as, I think (not sure about this), reducing a bit the soundstage width and sense of air and space, as you have already suspected. I know this because I have cut the foam off the old pads (it was disintegrating because of too much usage and probably because of the friction with the new silvery metallic mesh that replaced the old black one made of brass two years ago) and I have installed the woven cloth alternatively on the new pads as well as on the old ones. I have switched between the two many times, without sticking the pads to the baffle with the double sided adhesive yet. 

 The woven cloth fits pretty well on the old pads in the hole left by the foam, but its edge (the oval shaped artificial leather ring) must remain in close contact with the pad - if it separates too much and doesn't seal the inner side of the pad anymore the sound changes to a shockingly degree, I cannot explain why, and becomes much brighter, livelier, with highs to die for, better air, soundstage and perhaps even better dynamics; however, unfortunately it also looses much too much bass quantitatively as well as bass impact and becomes unbalanced and somewhat tiring. Almost the same sound (perhaps the change is even slightly greater) one can get by installing the wove cloth not in contact with the pad but by simply placing in the oval hole of the baffle, in contact with the metallic mesh I was mentioning before.

 Back to the comparison between the actual pads. I was refraining from writing about this because I find it hard to describe and hard to explain. The new pads add bass themselves and make the midrange more subdued. The old pads sound more lively. But the most interesting fact is that, apparently unrelated to the frequency response, *the old pads allows the listener to hear more easily all the sound and the relationships between them, thus gaining better access to the whole musical gestalt*. It's not that they are more detailed, the new pads might even sound a tiny little bit more precise and relaxed (I'm not sure), but it's simply as I said above and I cannot describe or explain it better. It's much easier for me to hear the music with the old pads, pure joy with no effort on my side, while the new ones are boring by comparison. The difference might not be very obvious from the first moment, but something was missing and I couldn't put the finger on it. Then, returning to the old pads was such a relief! I was listening to music again. I couldn't explain and thus I found it hard to believe, so I have tried repeatedly to give the new pads a chance during the past few weeks, but every time the attempt ended the same way. Now I only use the old pads with the new woven cloth. 

 Please bear in mind that my modest but nice sounding system is better suited to a livelier and brighter sounding Stax phone because it is on the warm, dark and colorful side. And colored too, I agree, but I repeat myself, it sounds pretty good (and really great for the money). In a more neutral system the new pads might offer better tonal balance, but I'm sure the stuff about musicality or sonic gestalt I wrote above would still hold true.


----------



## kh6idf

Don Quichotte,

 Are your new 303 pads made of 'artificial leather' like the old ones? I assume only the 404LE pads are real leather which is why I ordered them instead of the new 202 pads.

 If they are artificial leather, I would think they wouldn't change the sound much unless they were a different thickness or shape. The biggest difference would be in the dust protection material.

 I would have liked to get a full thickness 202 pad made of real leather, these 404LE pads are thinner and place the ears closer to the drivers. In fact the outer edges of my ears touch the dust protection cloth now, but it is not irritating as the cloth is soft and not scratchy.


----------



## Don Quichotte

The new pads are made of artificial leather, just like the old ones, but they are noticeably thinner, I suppose they have the same thickness as your 404LE pads. The cloth changes the tonality compared to the foam of the old pads, but the character of the sound remains the same - pretty much as if you would alter a bit the position of the bass and treble knobs of an integrated amplifier. The new pads themselves, on the other hand, result in a less linear tonal modification which is as big or almost as big as the change induced by the cloth; being less linear and perhaps also for other reasons which escape me, the tonal change induced by the new pads results in a sound that seems a bit different in character - comparatively more shut in mids, maybe less snappy in the mids, less spacious, cohesive or expressive, I don't know, I'm not so sure now of a detailed comparison done from the memory. The main idea is, as I wrote in my previous post, less music - and of this I am sure, I couldn't forget the difference. Of course, all IMHO, in my system, etc.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don Quichotte,

 Are your new 303 pads made of 'artificial leather' like the old ones? I assume only the 404LE pads are real leather which is why I ordered them instead of the new 202 pads.

 If they are artificial leather, I would think they wouldn't change the sound much unless they were a different thickness or shape. The biggest difference would be in the dust protection material.

 I would have liked to get a full thickness 202 pad made of real leather, these 404LE pads are thinner and place the ears closer to the drivers. In fact the outer edges of my ears touch the dust protection cloth now, but it is not irritating as the cloth is soft and not scratchy._

 

Build a spacer or wedge to hold the leather ear pad out further.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Build a spacer or wedge to hold the leather ear pad out further._

 

We have to be honest about this:

 The new pads are stinkers


 cheers


 Tom


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We have to be honest about this:

 The new pads are stinkers


 cheers


 Tom_

 

Perhaps it's my English, but I interpret this as you are skeptical. Which I'm perfectly fine with. I just want to remind you and everyone else who find my impressions rather hard to believe that several people, Spritzer included, reported major sound differences as a result of the Omega 2 pads getting worn out in time. If flattening the old pad could result in a significant sound difference (which in the case of my 303's I have not noticed - neither the pad getting flatter over time nor the sound changing, but perhaps the Omega pads wear out faster, I don't know), then it's not hard to imagine that a thinner new pad can also change the sound somewhat. In my system and to my ears, this change is for the bad, that's all.

 What I really cannot understand at all, and should I just read it I'd find it hard to believe too, is the sound difference that a simple, small gap between the frame of the woven cloth and the old pad (foam removed, cloth installed instead) is capable of producing as compared to a good seal between the frame and the pad. If someone could chime in and explain it to me I'd be really grateful as I have tried hard to obtain a sound just in the middle between "with gap" and "with good seal" and I was totally unsuccessful.


----------



## kh6idf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Build a spacer or wedge to hold the leather ear pad out further._

 

I thought about doing that, but figured if they worked on the 404LE they would work on the 202. I think the sound is fine with the 404LE pads on the 202 as they are. Now that they are stuck down with that industrial-strength tape I'm not going to pull them off. If you hold the old and new pad side by side and compare thickness, it is not a big difference, but it sounds like all of the new pads, vinyl or leather, are slightly thinner.


----------



## evil-zen

I have a voltage change questions for the gurus here. Managed to get a US voltage 717 which is working fine with my step down transformer to 120v. Wanted to change it to 230v but the guides on Head-fi does not seem to work? 

 I've tried changing the jumpers from 2,4,6 to 2,5 and 3,5. But that does not work somehow. 

 Any ideas?










 In case the pictures are not clear, they colours from 1-6 is green, blue, brown, purple, nothing, white.


----------



## Bullseye

Hey guys, I'd like to ask if 250€ shipped for a mint stax srm-323II is a good price?


----------



## padam

Yes, it is a very good price.


----------



## chi2

Apropos used Stax gear:

STAX SR-X MK-3 ELECTROSTATIC EARSPEAKER W/SRD-7 ADAPTOR - eBay (item 320441410633 end time Oct-30-09 16:20:18 PDT)

 I just can't believe that this combo is offered at USD 700 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I got the very same here from a fellow headfier for 150 and it was in excellent shape. 
 If it was at least the SRD-7 MKII!


----------



## krmathis

^ Yeah, that BIN price is way too high. One can always "Make Offer" though...


----------



## edstrelow

Having been both buying and selling in the used market recently, this listiing is out of line because prices are definitely coming down., not going up. This seller either has no idea about what he is selling, or he is just hoping to snag someone who doesn't but thinks old stats are always valuable. Possibly he thinks this is a "pro" SRXIII, a rebuilt one did sell on ebay a week or so back, but it only went for under $285.00.


----------



## gilency

There is this SR-007 in Audiogon by lobster_king
AudiogoN ForSale: Stax Sr-007 Omega Ii MKI electrostatic

 is this the lobsterking that is bashed on a thread here?
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/qua...-again-404475/
 The price is pretty good but...is this guy trust worthy?


----------



## n3rdling

Ya that's him.


----------



## gilency

sounds tempting but after reading about him, not sure is such a good idea. Perhaps that is why the have not sold yet.


----------



## El_Doug

he is very trustworthy, in terms of honesty, communication, and shipping the items, on time, as described

 he's just a bit of a sleaze when it comes to flipping. worse, he has in the past created alt-accounts, in order to increase the going price 


 in the end, I ordered some cables from him. I can vouch for a good transaction. whether or not youre comfortable buying headphones from him is a different story, and comes down to how much you care about his behavior - quality should not factor into the decision


----------



## El_Doug

he is very trustworthy, in terms of honesty, communication, and shipping the items, on time, as described

 he's just a bit of a sleaze when it comes to flipping. worse, he has in the past created alt-accounts, in order to increase the going price 


 in the end, I ordered some cables from him. I can vouch for a good transaction. whether or not youre comfortable buying headphones from him is a different story, and comes down to how much you care about his behavior - quality should not factor into the decision


----------



## gilency

I get it. Thanks.


----------



## Coreyk78

I'm looking to buy a new pair of Stax within the next month or so. I'm taking part in the beta build of the Exstata amp from the DIY forum, so I won't need an amp, just the cans. I currently own a pair of SR-30 electrets that will work with the amp, but I want to upgrade to a set of real stats once the amp is built.

 For the sake of simplicity I'm mostly looking at models that are available to buy new so I can get them when I'm ready and not have to hunt around for a used set. I think a pair of O2's would be really cool, but that is definitely not in the budget right now, so that has me looking at the SR-202 to SR-404(not LE) range. 

 I've read about the midrange hump in the 303 and 404, and that it perhaps isn't as much of an issue with the 202. I don't know if it would bother me or if I would even notice it since I haven't heard any of them yet. The thing is that the price difference isn't really that big. 

 The only place I've found the SR-202 by themselves is at Woo Audio for $350, while the SR-303 and SR-404 are available from a few different Ebay sellers for around $360 for the 303 and $450-475 for the 404. 

 So is the SR-202 worth the same price as a set of SR-303 to get away from the midrange issue? If the SR-303 are still considered better, then I would probably spend the extra $100 and step up to the 404's. What advice do the Stax Gurus here have?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *evil-zen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a voltage change questions for the gurus here. Managed to get a US voltage 717 which is working fine with my step down transformer to 120v. Wanted to change it to 230v but the guides on Head-fi does not seem to work? 

 I've tried changing the jumpers from 2,4,6 to 2,5 and 3,5. But that does not work somehow. 

 Any ideas?






 In case the pictures are not clear, they colours from 1-6 is green, blue, brown, purple, nothing, white._

 

That's odd as those postions for the jumpers sound correct.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Coreyk78* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking to buy a new pair of Stax within the next month or so. I'm taking part in the beta build of the Exstata amp from the DIY forum, so I won't need an amp, just the cans. I currently own a pair of SR-30 electrets that will work with the amp, but I want to upgrade to a set of real stats once the amp is built.

 For the sake of simplicity I'm mostly looking at models that are available to buy new so I can get them when I'm ready and not have to hunt around for a used set. I think a pair of O2's would be really cool, but that is definitely not in the budget right now, so that has me looking at the SR-202 to SR-404(not LE) range. 

 I've read about the midrange hump in the 303 and 404, and that it perhaps isn't as much of an issue with the 202. I don't know if it would bother me or if I would even notice it since I haven't heard any of them yet. The thing is that the price difference isn't really that big. 

 The only place I've found the SR-202 by themselves is at Woo Audio for $350, while the SR-303 and SR-404 are available from a few different Ebay sellers for around $360 for the 303 and $450-475 for the 404. 

 So is the SR-202 worth the same price as a set of SR-303 to get away from the midrange issue? If the SR-303 are still considered better, then I would probably spend the extra $100 and step up to the 404's. What advice do the Stax Gurus here have?_

 

The 303 and 404 have thinner diaphragms than the 202. The 404 additionally has the better cable, the same as used in the 007. The 404LE has yet another upgraded cable but I do not know if it is actually better.

 I don't know how the 202 sounds compared to the 303 and 404. I do have a 404, a Signature and until recently a Lambda Nova Classic. I personally think all the lambdas benefit from removing the foam backing.

 When this is done the midrange coloration disappears and the soundfield opens up. I find the sound much better with the foam out.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/

 So I would say go for the 404, listen for a while, then take the foam out and I suspect you will like the phones even more.


----------



## Tachikoma

^Thinner membrane doesn't necessarily mean it sounds better, just so you know.


----------



## pmac

Hi, just joined and this is my first post. Great forum, by the way!

 I have a Stax 4040 signature set up and just love the sound, however, one ever present problem is the squeaks that eminate from the headphones whenever I move - even slightly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It spoils the overall sensation and becomes irritating to the point that I can not listen to them for long periods of time. It seems to come from the joint of the caliper arrangement that fixes the earspeaker to the headband, so I thought about lubricating it, but wanted to check with you guys first.

 Have any of you SR-404 owners out there experienced the same thing? If so, is there any cure, or do I have to just put up with it???


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pmac* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, just joined and this is my first post. Great forum, by the way!

 I have a Stax 4040 signature set up and just love the sound, however, one ever present problem is the squeaks that eminate from the headphones whenever I move - even slightly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It spoils the overall sensation and becomes irritating to the point that I can not listen to them for long periods of time. It seems to come from the joint of the caliper arrangement that fixes the earspeaker to the headband, so I thought about lubricating it, but wanted to check with you guys first.

 Have any of you SR-404 owners out there experienced the same thing? If so, is there any cure, or do I have to just put up with it???_

 

Talcum powder used sparringly solves your problem

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## pmac

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Talcum powder used sparringly solves your problem

 cheers

 Tom_

 

Thanks for that Tom, I will try it tonight. I thought about light oil or Vaseline, but that seemed too messy/risky. your suggestion seems much more appropriate.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pmac* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, just joined and this is my first post. Great forum, by the way!

 I have a Stax 4040 signature set up and just love the sound, however, one ever present problem is the squeaks that eminate from the headphones whenever I move - even slightly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It spoils the overall sensation and becomes irritating to the point that I can not listen to them for long periods of time. It seems to come from the joint of the caliper arrangement that fixes the earspeaker to the headband, so I thought about lubricating it, but wanted to check with you guys first.

 Have any of you SR-404 owners out there experienced the same thing? If so, is there any cure, or do I have to just put up with it???_

 

Stax Germany does recommend a little bit of graphite powder for the task and in fact it does work for all the Lambda varieties I've owned/do own..


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^Thinner membrane doesn't necessarily mean it sounds better, just so you know._

 

I would say that all other things being equal it probably does. After all you are reducing diaphragm mass.

 Certainly my thinner sets, 007, 404, Sigma/404 and Signature, sound more detailed than my thicker diaphragm sets, Nova Classic, Sigma, Sigma pro, SRXIII.


----------



## gilency

I that the Sigma Pro's membrane is thinner than the 404's. 1 vs 1.25.microns


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say that all other things being equal it probably does. After all you are reducing diaphragm mass.

 Certainly my thinner sets, 007, 404, Sigma/404 and Signature, sound more detailed than my thicker diaphragm sets, Nova Classic, Sigma, Sigma pro, SRXIII._

 

You are reducing mass but you do need that mass to damp the membrane oscillations which is why Stax moved back to 1.5 and then 1.35um after 1993. Add air damping and that takes care of the notorious etch once and for all. 

 Ohh and the SR-202 has a 1.35um diaphragm just like the other Stax models (except the SR-001/003).


----------



## gilency

Spritzer. Is the Sigma Pro's membrane then thinner than the 404's or am I mistaken?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are reducing mass but you do need that mass to damp the membrane oscillations which is why Stax moved back to 1.5 and then 1.35um after 1993. Add air damping and that takes care of the notorious etch once and for all. 

 Ohh and the SR-202 has a 1.35um diaphragm just like the other Stax models (except the SR-001/003)._

 

The Stax site describes the 202 diaphragm as " less than 2 microns thick is driven by the power of static electricity". However it says that the 303 has the same diaphragm as the 404 which it clearly describes as being 1.35 microns. From that I don't think we can say what the thickness is of the 202, but that it does not appear to be 1.35.

 As regards etch, most of it seems to be caused by the foam damping behind the drivers. My Signatures sound very smooth with the foam gone and terrible with it in place.

 At least the 404 was decent with the foam, but in my opinion is still much better without it.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax site describes the 202 diaphragm as " less than 2 microns thick is driven by the power of static electricity". However it says that the 303 has the same diaphragm as the 404 which it clearly describes as being 1.35 microns. From that I don't think we can say what the thickness is of the 202, but that it does not appear to be 1.35.

 As regards etch, most of it seems to be caused by the foam damping behind the drivers. My Signatures sound very smooth with the foam gone and terrible with it in place.

 At least the 404 was decent with the foam, but in my opinion is still much better without it._

 

Just to clarify, because it is often unclear. when you say foam, you are referring to the material that is next to your ear? the damping material on the outside of the lambda (which is yellow) is called damping? this is often confusing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer. Is the Sigma Pro's membrane then thinner than the 404's or am I mistaken?_

 

A stock Sigma Pro has the same drivers as a Lambda Signature (turned around though not that it matters to a true dipole) which are 1um. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Stax site describes the 202 diaphragm as " less than 2 microns thick is driven by the power of static electricity". However it says that the 303 has the same diaphragm as the 404 which it clearly describes as being 1.35 microns. From that I don't think we can say what the thickness is of the 202, but that it does not appear to be 1.35.

 As regards etch, most of it seems to be caused by the foam damping behind the drivers. My Signatures sound very smooth with the foam gone and terrible with it in place.

 At least the 404 was decent with the foam, but in my opinion is still much better without it._

 

Stax have pretty much dropped all mention of how thick the diaphragms are but the old instruction manuals used to state it. 

 The foam is certainly not the cause of the etch, if that would be the case then how come the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60, Jade and basically any other recent 'stat has it to some degree yet no foam? It's also diminished by changing the amp or rather certain amplifier traits.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A stock Sigma Pro has the same drivers as a Lambda Signature (turned around though not that it matters to a true dipole) which are 1um. 



 Stax have pretty much dropped all mention of how thick the diaphragms are but the old instruction manuals used to state it. 

 The foam is certainly not the cause of the etch, if that would be the case then how come the SR-Omega, HE90, HE60, Jade and basically any other recent 'stat has it to some degree yet no foam? It's also diminished by changing the amp or rather certain amplifier traits._

 

I think we must agree to disagree here or maybe we need to define "etch" better but I don't have the same issues with these other phones that I have with the foam-backed Lambdas. I don't feel that my 007A has the same midrange etch, honkiness, crap or whatever you call it that the foam-backed 404 had. When I took my 007A's to the last Canjam some of the systems I tried them with such as the BHSE and Mickeymads ES1(?) showed no harshness at all. I also just recently upgraded a DAC and the new sound was less harsh and edgy. So I think we are back to these phones being very revealing all all kinds of source problems and there is a lot of source harshness out there.

 I am less familiar with the other stat phones you mention but my limited listening suggested they were less etchy than the foam-backed Lambdas. 

 Whether or not there are any audible problems of membrane oscillation, based on the major improvement of the sound of my 2 Lambdas after getting rid of the foam backing, I don't see this as the source of the Lambda sound problem that most people would find objectionable.

 BTW I am referring to the foam *behind* the drivers, what Keithpgbrb calls *damping*.


----------



## n3rdling

IME I think spritzer is correct wrt amps effecting the etch. With the SRM1mkII, the Lambda Signature is etched, but with the 717 or T1 I don't consider the Lambda Sig any more etched than the normal bias Lambda. I have 3 sets of Sigs here; I believe two sets have no damping and one does, so I will bring them out in the next week and give them a listen to see if the damping makes a difference in etch or not.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IME I think spritzer is correct wrt amps effecting the etch. With the SRM1mkII, the Lambda Signature is etched, but with the 717 or T1 I don't consider the Lambda Sig any more etched than the normal bias Lambda. I have 3 sets of Sigs here; I believe two sets have no damping and one does, so I will bring them out in the next week and give them a listen to see if the damping makes a difference in etch or not._

 

With Sherwood's SRM-T1 or my maxed GES the Lambda Signature was slightly etched still (slightly more than either of our normal bias Lambda). But I agree it was much worse with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I sold shortly after we compared the three amps. 

 Eventually I sold the Lambda Sig for Spritzer's old ES950, which I then sold after I got the Jade. I don't feel the Jade or HE60 or O2 Mk1 are etched at all, but my Smegma Pro (woodied Gamma pro) are a bit etched in the upper mids/treble.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IME I think spritzer is correct wrt amps effecting the etch. With the SRM1mkII, the Lambda Signature is etched, but with the 717 or T1 I don't consider the Lambda Sig any more etched than the normal bias Lambda. I have 3 sets of Sigs here; I believe two sets have no damping and one does, so I will bring them out in the next week and give them a listen to see if the damping makes a difference in etch or not._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With Sherwood's SRM-T1 or my maxed GES the Lambda Signature was slightly etched still (slightly more than either of our normal bias Lambda). But I agree it was much worse with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I sold shortly after we compared the three amps. 

 Eventually I sold the Lambda Sig for Spritzer's old ES950, which I then sold after I got the Jade. I don't feel the Jade or HE60 or O2 Mk1 are etched at all, but my Smegma Pro (woodied Gamma pro) are a bit etched in the upper mids/treble._

 

My de-foamed Signature runs very nicely on an SRM1Mk2.

 I got this Sig. fairly recently. The foam on one cup was completely gone, the other had visible foam, but it was so deteriorated that it fell apart as I opened the cup. Initially I thought I had better get new foam, but when I installed it the Sigs were awfull. I took the new foam out and realized that 
 the sound was better without any foam.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With Sherwood's SRM-T1 or my maxed GES the Lambda Signature was slightly etched still (slightly more than either of our normal bias Lambda). But I agree it was much worse with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I sold shortly after we compared the three amps. 

 Eventually I sold the Lambda Sig for Spritzer's old ES950, which I then sold after I got the Jade. I don't feel the Jade or HE60 or O2 Mk1 are etched at all, but my Smegma Pro (woodied Gamma pro) are a bit etched in the upper mids/treble._

 

Hmm that's interesting. I have to give my HE60 a good listen again, but from the few days I spent listening to it I thought it was the most etched of all my stats besides maybe the SR5. I'll give it another whirl sometime. I agree that the O2 is not etched at all (neither are the Sigmas), and the Jade I heard at CanJam in Ray's room didn't sound very good at all imo.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IME I think spritzer is correct wrt amps effecting the etch. With the SRM1mkII, the Lambda Signature is etched, but with the 717 or T1 I don't consider the Lambda Sig any more etched than the normal bias Lambda. I have 3 sets of Sigs here; I believe two sets have no damping and one does, so I will bring them out in the next week and give them a listen to see if the damping makes a difference in etch or not._

 

I would agree with this but on my 717 with some very high-end sources and cables, my O2 Mk1 sound a little etched in the mids but my O2 Mk2 and 404LE exhibit none of this trait. This experience and what I heard at the last meet leads me to believe that the WES or BHSE is the perfect match for the O2 Mk1 and fixes this but also makes the O2 Mk2 sound overly dark.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think we must agree to disagree here or maybe we need to define "etch" better but I don't have the same issues with these other phones that I have with the foam-backed Lambdas. I don't feel that my 007A has the same midrange etch, honkiness, crap or whatever you call it that the foam-backed 404 had. When I took my 007A's to the last Canjam some of the systems I tried them with such as the BHSE and Mickeymads ES1(?) showed no harshness at all. I also just recently upgraded a DAC and the new sound was less harsh and edgy. So I think we are back to these phones being very revealing all all kinds of source problems and there is a lot of source harshness out there.

 I am less familiar with the other stat phones you mention but my limited listening suggested they were less etchy than the foam-backed Lambdas. 

 Whether or not there are any audible problems of membrane oscillation, based on the major improvement of the sound of my 2 Lambdas after getting rid of the foam backing, I don't see this as the source of the Lambda sound problem that most people would find objectionable.

 BTW I am referring to the foam *behind* the drivers, what Keithpgbrb calls *damping*._

 

The midrange etch and honk are two very different things to me and while most electrostatics have the etch to some degree at least, very few of them have that nasty honk coloration. The SR-007Mk/A and SR-303/404 being the worst culprits. The honk is lower in the frequency, affecting voices and certain instruments over a relatively wide spectrum while the etch is much more narrow, only affecting the top of the midrange. 

 The source can certainly exacerbate the etch by adding its own level of harshness but my two main sources are very smooth, Audio Zone DAC-1 which is NOS with a capacitor coupled output and my main source is a APL 3910 with a ECC99 based output stage which is then fed through a pair of Lundahl output transformers. Not a hint of harshness in either of them.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The midrange etch and honk are two very different things to me and while most electrostatics have the etch to some degree at least, very few of them have that nasty honk coloration. The SR-007Mk/A and SR-303/404 being the worst culprits. The honk is lower in the frequency, affecting voices and certain instruments over a relatively wide spectrum while the etch is much more narrow, only affecting the top of the midrange._

 

could you be a more specific regarding the frequencies that cause the midrange etch and honk? I have read somewhere they are around 3.8, 7.8 and 12.8.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would agree with this but on my 717 with some very high-end sources and cables, my O2 Mk1 sound a little etched in the mids but my O2 Mk2 and 404LE exhibit none of this trait. This experience and what I heard at the last meet leads me to believe that the WES or BHSE is the perfect match for the O2 Mk1 and fixes this but also makes the O2 Mk2 sound overly dark._

 

I did not like the O2 Mk2 on the WES at CanJam, but I did like them on the GES when paired with the proper source. Unlike the O2 Mk2 -> the O2 Mk1, Jade, HE60 and SR-404LE were all great on the WES.

 When using the RSA A-10 I preferred the O2 Mk1 and HE60 over the Jade and 404LE. But the Jade rock out of the GES and WES, and I didn't think they were bad on the A-10.

 On the KGBH SE I liked the 404LE as much as the O2 Mk1, because the O2 Mk1 mids were a little thin with the KGBH SE. The 404LE get some ooomph and sparkle with the KGBH SE and the soundstage is bigger than with the 404LE and GES. I didn't get to try the HE60 or Jade on the KGBH SE because once I compared the O2 Mk1 on the other amps I took the amp off my wish list and stopped testing other phones.


----------



## anetode

Attachment 22333

 Heads up


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I always kinda liked the "amp built into the headphone stand" idea.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With Sherwood's SRM-T1 or my maxed GES the Lambda Signature was slightly etched still (slightly more than either of our normal bias Lambda). But I agree it was much worse with my SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that I sold shortly after we compared the three amps. 

 Eventually I sold the Lambda Sig for Spritzer's old ES950, which I then sold after I got the Jade. I don't feel the Jade or HE60 or O2 Mk1 are etched at all, but my Smegma Pro (woodied Gamma pro) are a bit etched in the upper mids/treble._

 

I changed out the tubes for Toshiba in Sherwood's old (now my) T1. It did make it sound a little better. I agree that the Signature had a little more etch then my Normal bias still. ESP950 was great with it too.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_could you be a more specific regarding the frequencies that cause the midrange etch and honk? I have read somewhere they are around 3.8, 7.8 and 12.8._

 

I will never spend time listening to test tones when I can be listening to music so I can't help you there.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will never spend time listening to test tones when I can be listening to music so I can't help you there._

 

Thank you anyways ..... No offense, but if somebody describes a sound, I find it useful what exactly is what they are talking about. Does anybody have more information about this? 
 I personally found the 404's very enjoyable and the edginess in the trebles was not a big issue except for some vocal/choir performances. I sold them for the Sigma Pro's because I've heard they are wonderful for vocal/choirs/chamber music and I look forward to distinguish the difference between the 2 of them.
 When I move up to the SR-007 in a couple of months, I will then have to decide between the MK1 or MK2. For what I just read in the last few posts, the Mk2's "may" do better with "lesser amplifiers" such as the 717, while the MK1's definitely do better with the top of the food chain, specifically the BH/WES.
 I think I will likely keep the Sigmas on a long term basis because they are very hard to find, and because of its potential for "upgrade" to a Sigma/404. Very likely I'll buy another Lambda again because I loved the 404's, but not sure which one will be next.
 As far as amplifiers are concerned, I will probably wait and use the SRD7 MK2 with a vintage Kenwood amplifier. Granted not the best of choices but it will have to do for a while.


----------



## mikeymad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always kinda liked the "amp built into the headphone stand" idea._

 

X2

 Does not work the same when I put my ES-1 on its side....


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *anetode* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Attachment 22333

 Heads up_

 

SRM-353S... That is all new to me.
 Sure looks nice though, in its silver chassis...


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I changed out the tubes for Toshiba in Sherwood's old (now my) T1. It did make it sound a little better. I agree that the Signature had a little more etch then my Normal bias still. ESP950 was great with it too._

 

If you don't mind running your amp without its cover, get a pair of 6SN7GTB/GTAs with an adaptor in there. Pros = moar power, cons = moar tuberolling and moar $$$ to spend on tweaking


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you don't mind running your amp without its cover, get a pair of 6SN7GTB/GTAs with an adaptor in there. Pros = moar power, cons = moar tuberolling and moar $$$ to spend on tweaking_

 

I have heard this can be done before, but I have been limited on impressions from those who have done it. It very well may be put out to the sea along with my Stax pro adapter in the new year with the O2s arrival. I am thinking about going to an SS amp more suited for it.


----------



## exphy

Recieved my first set of Stax and I'm in love. This is even better then my first AudioTechnica experience. Still have to compare these with my MS2 and A900 but I'm sure the stax will win

 SRM-Xh with Lambda Pro Classic, so how nice are these headphones? And what should be a fair price to pay for them?


----------



## mobbaddict

From my recent research i'd say 300€ (450$) would be a fair price.


----------



## PianoForte

Hello fellow music lovers (and also lovers of writing in forums helping people like me out),

 I'm living/working in Japan and with the cold approaching, was thinking this might be an opportune time to get some stax. A couple years ago when visiting Tokyo (when I lived in the U.S) I stopped in yodobashi and remember that my impression of the stax (both the lower and high end phones) were a lot more musical, refined, than any of the dynamics I heard at the time. So I'm looking at the 3050a system (called the 3050II for exports, with slightly different voltage.) I'm having trouble finding reviews on them on the net or in this vast jungle of head-fi. Can anyone offer their experiences with this system, or point me toward reviews of this new version (it seems in the 3050ii/a the amp is different, yes?) My tastes focus around classical, jazz, acoustic, and some rock every now and then. 

 I'm currently using ad700 and a headroom bithead (sold my valab dac, rega ear, and hd600 in the states cause I didn't have enough room in my luggage).

 Any opinions, links, etc., would be appreciated! Thanks


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tachikoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you don't mind running your amp without its cover, get a pair of 6SN7GTB/GTAs with an adaptor in there. Pros = moar power, cons = moar tuberolling and moar $$$ to spend on tweaking_

 

Wonder if it'll be a big difference with 6SN7 tubes like the Syl "Bad Boys", Syl 6SN7Ws, Ken-Rad Black Glass, etc tubes.


----------



## Tachikoma

You could probably use normal 6SN7GTs in there, but I wouldn't. The main reason I even bothered to try it was because the GTA/Bs were rated for 450V, while the 6CG7s were only rated for 300V.

 The amp does sound different with different 6SN7s in there, based on the RCA 6SN7GTA and Syl yellow label 6SN7GTB I've tried.

 If you want to try something expensive, the Sophia electric 6SN7 and Shuguang CV-181Z are both rated for 450V as well.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PianoForte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello fellow music lovers (and also lovers of writing in forums helping people like me out),

 I'm living/working in Japan and with the cold approaching, was thinking this might be an opportune time to get some stax. A couple years ago when visiting Tokyo (when I lived in the U.S) I stopped in yodobashi and remember that my impression of the stax (both the lower and high end phones) were a lot more musical, refined, than any of the dynamics I heard at the time. So I'm looking at the 3050a system (called the 3050II for exports, with slightly different voltage.) I'm having trouble finding reviews on them on the net or in this vast jungle of head-fi. Can anyone offer their experiences with this system, or point me toward reviews of this new version (it seems in the 3050ii/a the amp is different, yes?) My tastes focus around classical, jazz, acoustic, and some rock every now and then. 

 I'm currently using ad700 and a headroom bithead (sold my valab dac, rega ear, and hd600 in the states cause I didn't have enough room in my luggage).

 Any opinions, links, etc., would be appreciated! Thanks_

 

You will find the best value in the used market. A Lambda Signature and a SRM-T1 mate well. I'm using a SRD-7 Pro with Neslon Pass designed amp and a SR-404LIMITED; this combo pleasing and eliminates the need for a dedicated STAX amp. If you plan on staying with STAX long term the SRM-717 is worth seeking out, the newer amp is not the same. The best 'stat amps currently produced are made here in the U.S. by Jack Woo (Woo Audio), Ray Samuels (RSA), and Justin W. (HeadAmp).

 This is the wrong thread to discuss dynamics but the are some good options from Denon. If you can, make it a point to check out the Luxman P-1 and/or P-200 headphone amps, the P-1 is one of the best if not the best amp for my ATH-A900LTD. I have not heard the P-1u, yet... but I have high hopes for it too.


----------



## PianoForte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You will find the best value in the used market. A Lambda Signature and a SRM-T1 mate well. I'm using a SRD-7 Pro with Neslon Pass designed amp and a SR-404LIMITED; this combo pleasing and eliminates the need for a dedicated STAX amp. If you plan on staying with STAX long term the SRM-717 is worth seeking out, the newer amp is not the same. The best 'stat amps currently produced are made here in the U.S. by Jack Woo (Woo Audio), Ray Samuels (RSA), and Justin W. (HeadAmp).

 This is the wrong thread to discuss dynamics but the are some good options from Denon. If you can, make it a point to check out the Luxman P-1 and/or P-200 headphone amps, the P-1 is one of the best if not the best amp for my ATH-A900LTD. I have not heard the P-1u, yet... but I have high hopes for it too._

 

Thanks for your response!
 I think the woo, RSA, and Headamp are a bit out of my price range. Since I live in Japan, I can get the stax stuff cheaper than I can in the U.S. For example, the 3050a system online is about $850 here. As far as the used market here, I really don't know, since I can't read a lot of kanji (chinese characters used in japanese) yet. I could peruse the forums in the u.s. and the u.k., but the shipping will probably be relatively expensive. I do love my ad700 quite a bit and might consider getting a dac/amp (just discovered the dr.dac2 dx today online) for now, so when/if i do decide to go stax, i'll have a better foundation to listen to them through.


----------



## plaidplatypus

I would still suggest not buying a new STAX amp. I owned a SRM-727II and found it below my standards for an e'stat amp. I can't imagine the SRM-323a being any better.

 I would suggest going with a STAX SRD adaptor as they are smaller and easier to ship than a STAX amp. They work worldwide with most speaker amps and the SB models don't need even need to be plugged in to an outlet. Some of the old STAX amps are voltage selectable.

 The SR-303 is a fine choice but the older Lambda earspeakers are by no means out of date.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I heard a modded SRM-717 with new jacks and wiring today, and listened with Dinan's O2 Mk2 and HE60, and with my HE60 and SR-003, and it was actually pretty nice sounding. 

 Dinan used the recommended ballast resistors in his re-terminated HE60 cable and there was a smidgeon more bass than my HE60. Mine had been re-terminated by Rudistor before I bought them from Kees, so I don't know if they were done right because the plug is glued closed. Otherwise the 717 gives both HE60 nice bass, and pounds with the SR-003. The 717 was one of those amps that doesn't make a stock O2 Mk2 sound too forward in the mids or too dark, although the mid-bass hump was still there (but not bad).


----------



## omigawsh_lollercoaster

Someone please tell me what 'O2' means.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *omigawsh_lollercoaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone please tell me what 'O2' means._

 



 STAX SRS-007MK2 Electrostatic Headphone System 

 SR-007MK2 Open-Back Electrostatic Earspeaker, or the Mk1 before it.
 The top of the line Stax headphone, it stands for Omega II.

 And they sound, uh...very, very nice.


----------



## omigawsh_lollercoaster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_STAX SRS-007MK2 Electrostatic Headphone System 

 SR-007MK2 Open-Back Electrostatic Earspeaker_

 

Thought so, thanks!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *omigawsh_lollercoaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone please tell me what 'O2' means._

 

It means...with the best source, best ICs and best amp...Heaven.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *omigawsh_lollercoaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone please tell me what 'O2' means._

 

Ohhh.... Ohhh...


----------



## John Buchanan

O2 actually means Omega 2 (which could be 007 Mk 1 or 007 Mk 2), compared with Omega 1.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_O2 actually means Omega 2 (which could be 007 Mk 1 or 007 Mk 2), compared with Omega 1._

 

Actually isn't the Omega 1 just the Omega?


----------



## spritzer

SR-Ω to be exact...


----------



## The Monkey

Indeed.


----------



## Elephas

There's no such thing as an "Omega 2"!

 Show me where it says "Omega 2" on Stax literature or the headphone! It says SR-007 or SR-007A or SR-007Mk2.

 So the Stax Mafia is wrong!


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's no such thing as an "Omega 2"!

 Show me where it says "Omega 2" on Stax literature or the headphone! It says SR-007 or SR-007A or SR-007Mk2.

 So the Stax Mafia is wrong!_

 

There's a disturbance in the Force...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There's no such thing as an "Omega 2"!

 Show me where it says "Omega 2" on Stax literature or the headphone! It says SR-007 or SR-007A or SR-007Mk2.

 So the Stax Mafia is wrong!_

 

Well, Stax refer to "OMEGA II" on their SR-007 website.
  Quote:


 Specifications of SR-007 (OMEGA II) Electrostatic Earspeakers 
 

Not for the SR-007 MK2 though...


----------



## antonyfirst

Actually, on Stax earpad bags they also say "Stax SR-007 Omega 2".


----------



## mobbaddict

A little off topic but a few weeks ago i saw on TV a perfume commercial featuring a lady wearing the Omega 2. Very classy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can't remember which brand it was though


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A little off topic but a few weeks ago i saw on TV a perfume commercial featuring a lady wearing the Omega 2. Very classy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can't remember which brand it was though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's cool. I would love to know who had such good taste in headphones!


----------



## spritzer

In the original SR-007 product literature they refer to them as Omega II...


----------



## wualta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR-Ω to be exact..._

 

Lessee... we could call this one _SR-Horseshoe_.. or.. _SR-Circlip_.. or..


----------



## omigawsh_lollercoaster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ohhh.... Ohhh..._

 

Aye, methinks there be more trouble a brewin' fer me wallet.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wualta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lessee... we could call this one SR-Horseshoe.. or.. SR-Circlip.. or.._

 

SR-Ohm... duhhhhh....


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's cool. I would love to know who had such good taste in headphones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Are you talking about the company or about the model?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you talking about the company or about the model? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

THe model if she is good looking!


----------



## Clarkmc2

I have had my O2 Mk2/SRM-007tII combo long enough to form an opinion. At first I was not at all taken with the sound, but now I find it both intoxicatiing and useful.

 I much preferred the SRX Mk3/ SRD7 fed by a world class small tube amplifier at first. The bass lightness or the SRX was a fair trade for the complete penetration into the recording mix offered by the monitor type headphones. With the amp I have nothing was going to better the sound quality of the presentation; what I was expecting from the new setup was a more complete experience.

 Which it delivers. Whatever the shortcomings re: the previous O2 model, it has one huge advantage. It walks the line perfectly between ruthlessly revealing clarity and forgiveness of less than perfect source material. Nothing is diminished to the point of warping the experience, yet everything sounds great. For all I know I might indeed find the 4070 more to my liking, old folks like me tend to like bright and forward, but I am really, really happy with the O2 Mk2.

 I will give it the ultimate compliment. It is a better presentation than the one I thought I wanted and would have preferred before I gave them a listen. As a set of compromises, and everything is, it is at the least one of several best possible ones. Any variations as worthy would be different flavors, tasting as good but not better.

 I no doubt have a slightly different set of priorities than Spritzer, and a different set of ears than anyone else. Maybe I am lucky and maybe I am just not hearing as well as some. But at this point I like to think that with the newest version of their flagship, Stax made several conscious decisions to change the product rather than giving us a list of unintended consequences to a mandated change to meet new requirements.

 I would probably agree with Spritzer, if I heard both old and new, that the previous model is more perfect for well recorded music. Since I do not wish for my stereo to dictate what music I can enjoy listening to, I am OK with the new version as well.

 Edit: I am still looking forward to Spritzer finding a working O2 Mk2 and forming a tweak manual. Of course I am going to try the tweaks!

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

The Mk1 SR-007 is just as forgiving as the older the Mk2/A, if not even more due to the more relaxed top end. I'm feeding my APL3910/BH/007 setup 128k MP3's now (via the APL's digital input) and while the difference from FLAC files is night and day, it's never showed in my face. 

 I did buy a Mk2 months ago but the first set was destroyed and the seller will send me his backup when ever he gets around to it. I will try to get at least one SR-007A, mod it and bring it with me to CanJam.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had my O2 Mk2/SRM-007tII combo long enough to form an opinion. At first I was not at all taken with the sound, but now I find it both intoxicatiing and useful.

 I much preferred the SRX Mk3/ SRD7 fed by a world class small tube amplifier at first. The bass lightness or the SRX was a fair trade for the complete penetration into the recording mix offered by the monitor type headphones. With the amp I have nothing was going to better the sound quality of the presentation; what I was expecting from the new setup was a more complete experience.

 Which it delivers. Whatever the shortcomings re: the previous O2 model, it has one huge advantage. It walks the line perfectly between ruthlessly revealing clarity and forgiveness of less than perfect source material. Nothing is diminished to the point of warping the experience, yet everything sounds great. For all I know I might indeed find the 4070 more to my liking, old folks like me tend to like bright and forward, but I am really, really happy with the O2 Mk2.

 I will give it the ultimate compliment. It is a better presentation than the one I thought I wanted and would have preferred before I gave them a listen. As a set of compromises, and everything is, it is at the least one of several best possible ones. Any variations as worthy would be different flavors, tasting as good but not better.

 I no doubt have a slightly different set of priorities than Spritzer, and a different set of ears than anyone else. Maybe I am lucky and maybe I am just not hearing as well as some. But at this point I like to think that with the newest version of their flagship, Stax made several conscious decisions to change the product rather than giving us a list of unintended consequences to a mandated change to meet new requirements.

 I would probably agree with Spritzer, if I heard both old and new, that the previous model is more perfect for well recorded music. Since I do not wish for my stereo to dictate what music I can enjoy listening to, I am OK with the new version as well.

 Edit: I am still looking forward to Spritzer finding a working O2 Mk2 and forming a tweak manual. Of course I am going to try the tweaks!

 Clark_

 

I can't say that I would have placed the SRX3Mk2 very close to any Omega but what you say shows the importance of what you feed a Stax phone. The older phones scale up quite well, even compared to the best new phones, with better amps or sources. I find that I almost prefer the Sigma/404 to the 007A. When I tried the BHSE at the last Canjam, the advantages of the 007 over the Sigma/404 were much less pronounced and of course the soundstage advantage of the Sigma design shone through. I have noticed a similar lessening of differences at home as I have upgraded my DACs.

 I personally prefer the 007A with the Spritzer spring mod. This is my history of experimenting with mods>

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/t...estion-381975/

 I have tried different rotation positions of the earpads. I have either set the thickest part of the pads at the bottom either slightly forward, or more recently slightly behind. This makes them rather like the Lambda earpads where the thickest portion is at the back bottom. 

 Whne I compared my modded 007A vs the Mk1, at Canjam, I didn't hear any advantage to the Mk1.


----------



## paaj

Anyone know if it it possible (preferably easy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) to change the voltage on the SRM-T1W from 100 to 220V?


----------



## spritzer

Remove the bottom panel and see if there is the regular Stax plug/socket affair in the corner next to the IEC input. Some amps have it while others don't.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Mk1 SR-007 is just as forgiving as the older the Mk2/A, if not even more due to the more relaxed top end. I'm feeding my APL3910/BH/007 setup 128k MP3's now (via the APL's digital input) and while the difference from FLAC files is night and day, it's never showed in my face. 

 I did buy a Mk2 months ago but the first set was destroyed and the seller will send me his backup when ever he gets around to it. I will try to get at least one SR-007A, mod it and bring it with me to CanJam._

 

I was of course speaking out of ignorance, as I have not heard a "Mk 1." I was trying to say the same thing - surprisingly forgiving. And I am so pleased.

 So you will be in Chicago?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't say that I would have placed the SRX3Mk2 very close to any Omega but what you say shows the importance of what you feed a Stax phone. The older phones scale up quite well, even compared to the best new phones, with better amps or sources. I find that I almost prefer the Sigma/404 to the 007A. When I tried the BHSE at the last Canjam, the advantages of the 007 over the Sigma/404 were much less pronounced and of course the soundstage advantage of the Sigma design shone through. I have noticed a similar lessening of differences at home as I have upgraded my DACs._

 

I like the SRX Mk3 so much because 1) being a monitor, it goes much deeper into the mix than a more well rounded phone and I crave that - I have always preferred studio monitors, and 2) when you have one of the best amps in the world it really does shine very brightly. I consider it a version of perfection with combo Jazz and other acoustic music. Even so, I am so pleasantly surprised by the all around competence of the Omega II that I like it just as much. A huge surprise given what I usually like.

 I am also lucky in that I completely enjoy the O2 headstage and find it lacking for nothing. I have a pair of speakers that are world class imagers but I love the headphone experience equally. Each approach has its strengths. Speakers are so much less intimate than phones, for instance. To repeat myself, I will never understand the speaker lust I find on this site. And I have speakers better than most. In either case, if I want the ultimate in imaging I will ditch the DAC world and put on vinyl anyway. I find imaging to be more a recording issue than a speaker vs headphone issue. Some recordings are so close miked you can hear if someone turns their head a little. It does not sound realistic or natural to me. There is a possibly lost art to this stuff.

 Another personal thing where the O2 scores large for me is the mechanical construction. I must have just the right head for them because I find them super comfortable and the adjustability of the headband/earcup/transducer system is perfect as far as I am concerned. It is as if they designed them just for me. Hey, I said I was lucky.

 All this should matter only to me; I am not a typical listener, if there is such a thing. So YMMV for sure.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you will be in Chicago?_

 

Yup.


----------



## Bullseye

For the ones who have heard the SR-202 (said to be better than SR-303 or SR-404) and the Koss ESP-950. ARe there very different? Which one is more comfortable?


----------



## les_garten

Hello,
 Does anyone have the MOD document for the O2 MK2 that does the spring mod? My understanding is there was a document made. Thanx!


----------



## spritzer

There was no document made that I know of.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There was no document made that I know of._

 


 Hmmm, thanx!


----------



## spritzer

There isn't much to it though, just make bend the springs so that they are flatter then the stock and larger in circumference to grab the sides of the earpads.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Spritzer, do you still recommend your Blu-tack fix for the O2 Mk2 bass issue? And what did you say was the safest way to take the earpads off?

 Thanks, Clark


----------



## spritzer

I can't stand the unmodded Mk2/A for more then a couple of minutes so yeah, I'd mod them. You just pull on the earpads to take them off. Getting them back on is the hard part...


----------



## Bullseye

Can anyone answer to the questions I asked in page 808?


----------



## omigawsh_lollercoaster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone answer to the questions I asked in page 808?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the ones who have heard the SR-202 (said to be better than SR-303 or SR-404) and the Koss ESP-950. ARe there very different? Which one is more comfortable?_


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *omigawsh_lollercoaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Continue....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the SRX Mk3 so much because 1) being a monitor, it goes much deeper into the mix than a more well rounded phone and I crave that - I have always preferred studio monitors, and 2) when you have one of the best amps in the world it really does shine very brightly. I consider it a version of perfection with combo Jazz and other acoustic music. Even so, I am so pleasantly surprised by the all around competence of the Omega II that I like it just as much. A huge surprise given what I usually like.

 I am also lucky in that I completely enjoy the O2 headstage and find it lacking for nothing. I have a pair of speakers that are world class imagers but I love the headphone experience equally. Each approach has its strengths. Speakers are so much less intimate than phones, for instance. To repeat myself, I will never understand the speaker lust I find on this site. And I have speakers better than most. In either case, if I want the ultimate in imaging I will ditch the DAC world and put on vinyl anyway. I find imaging to be more a recording issue than a speaker vs headphone issue. Some recordings are so close miked you can hear if someone turns their head a little. It does not sound realistic or natural to me. There is a possibly lost art to this stuff.

 Clark_

 

I have had a mixed relationship with the SRX3Mk2. I owned a set years ago and sold them off. I got some more recently, actually 2 sets, one with a silver cable. However I still don't find them to be a good general listening phone. If your recording is bass heavy you would swear they are the best there is, but generally there is just not enough deep bass. 

 I suspect that if I did not have to share the house with the family, I would listen to more speakers. However, no matter how good your speakers, they will not in principle image as accurately as just about any pair of phones.

 Speakers create "phantom channels" of signals whereby, for example the left channel feeds the right era and vice-versa with a slight time delay. Thus you get 4 channels of sound from 2 speakers, two of them time delayed and which interefere the two correct signals. These phantom channels are complete artifacts and hence unnatural, compared to headphones which provide a pure left and right channel signal to the correct ear. 

 Polk's old SDA system provides some relief from this problem by generating cancellation signals to get rid of the phantoms.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the ones who have heard the SR-202 (said to be better than SR-303 or SR-404) and the Koss ESP-950. ARe there very different? Which one is more comfortable?_

 


 I don't think so. Obviously Stax thinks you will pay more for the 303 and 404. The Koss 950 is a very different phone from the Lambdas with its own strengths and weaknesses. Some people like them very much when run off a non-Koss amp. I finaly sold mine after about 12 years and mostly stick with Stax. However I do run the old Koss Esp6 and 9 which are one of a very few closed and isolating electrostatics and which I find to be still pretty listenable. Stax has its very expensive 4070 although based on a admittedly brief listen, I wouldn't even care to have around the house.

 Re comfort, the Koss 950 is more comfortable than the Stax, but they are not particularly bad either


----------



## edstrelow

double post


----------



## n3rdling

That's an advantage of speakers for 99% of material out there...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Speakers create "phantom channels" of signals whereby, for example the left channel feeds the right era and vice-versa with a slight time delay. Thus you get 4 channels of sound from 2 speakers, two of them time delayed and which interefere the two correct signals. These phantom channels are complete artifacts and hence unnatural, compared to headphones which provide a pure left and right channel signal to the correct ear. 

 Polk's old SDA system provides some relief from this problem by generating cancellation signals to get rid of the phantoms._

 

I love my Polk SDA CRS (Compact Reference System) which I bought when they came out in the mid 80's. I use them every day. The soundstage is huge with most music and especially with movies, and the soundstage goes behind the front wall, with ambience and space surrounding you in all directions. When it came time to sell off a pair of speakers to help pay for medical school I sold my old Quad ESL 57 and kept the Polk. A headphone like experience, but better than headphones for the out of head sound.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love my Polk SDA CRS (Compact Reference System) which I bought when they came out in the mid 80's. I use them every day. The soundstage is huge with most music and especially with movies, and the soundstage goes behind the front wall, with ambience and space surrounding you in all directions. When it came time to sell off a pair of speakers to help pay for medical school I sold my old Quad ESL 57 and kept the Polk. A headphone like experience, but better than headphones for the out of head sound._

 

For me it was a toss-up between the Polk SDA and Quads. Once I got the Polks, I was not much interested in Quads anymore. The SDA is still an unmatched speaker technology. I sometimes demonstrate it by plugging and unplugging the link between the speakers which switches the cancellation speakers in and out and you can just hear the image jump out at you when they are switched in. Without the cancellation you just hear ordinary stereo. It is very much as you say, headphones imaging with externalization. It is always interesting to hear images coming from beyond the side of the speakers, again something that no regular stereo speaker can do.

 Polk made these designs for what, about 10 years? I was surprised when they dropped them. But I see these designs get good prices in the second-hand market.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For me it was a toss-up between the Polk SDA and Quads. Once I got the Polks, I was not much interested in Quads anymore. The SDA is still an unmatched speaker technology. I sometimes demonstrate it by plugging and unplugging the link between the speakers which switches the cancellation speakers in and out and you can just hear the image jump out at you when they are switched in. Without the cancellation you just hear ordinary stereo. It is very much as you say, headphones imaging with externalization. It is always interesting to hear images coming from beyond the side of the speakers, again something that no regular stereo speaker can do.

 Polk made these designs for what, about 10 years? I was surprised when they dropped them. But I see these designs get good prices in the second-hand market._

 

Wow, I had no idea we both had to make the same choice between the Polk SDA and Quads. Sorry people for the off topic stuff, so I'll get back on track. 

 I sold my GES to buy the Woo WES Prototype, so my only stat amp right now is the HEV70 in the bedroom, or my ZDT > SRD-7 Mk2 in the basement rig. Tonight, for the first time ever I tried listening to the O2 Mk1 on the HEV70, and the combination basically makes the O2 Mk1 sound like a stock O2 Mk2, with excess mids and midbass hump and all. You'd think after 9 months of owning an O2 Mk1 that I would have tried the combo, but the GES was so good that I always kept the HEV70 in a flight case as a spare. 

 I swapped the O2 Mk1 for my HE60 and the combination with HEV70 sounds much better. I even prefer O2 on a $300 Qinpu A-3 8-watt tube hybrid driving the SRD-7 Mk2 more than the HEV70 with the O2. I know I posted somewhere recently that the HEV70 wasn't as bad as the Koss E90, but I had only tried the HEV70 with my old Lambda Signature, SR-003, and HE60. I posted a while back that the SR-003 had too forward mids with the HEV70, and since they are what I call a "baby O2", it's no surprise the O2 didn't sound so good either.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(...) and since they are what I call a "baby O2", it's no surprise the O2 didn't sound so good either._

 

I will receive the SR003 very soon, should i expect a glimpse of the O2? From my understanding they both have a dark signature (darker on the 003) with the treble and the deep bass being rolled off on the 003, right?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will receive the SR003 very soon, should i expect a glimpse of the O2? From my understanding they both have a dark signature (darker on the 003) with the treble and the deep bass being rolled off on the 003, right?_

 

That is correct and I think they are more similar than different. They are slightly dark, have a little bit of roll off on top and when properly seated in you ears, they have fantastic bottom end. 

 I bought an SR-001 Mk2 system to hotrod and travel with (finished and burning in now) and simply love it. It is amazing how much bottom end comes out of those little stats. They can beat MANY full size cans and once the amp is modded, the top end is all there and the soundstage is great. A special thanks to AudioCat for all his R&D work on the SR-001 system!!!!!!!!


----------



## Bullseye

What do you mean by R&D work?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean by R&D work?_

 

Research and Design work. Audiocats found a lot of great DIY mods to improve the amplification on the SR-001. On a different stax related topic, he has also done some interesting things with the Stax bias adapters.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is correct and I think they are more similar than different. They are slightly dark, have a little bit of roll off on top and when properly seated in you ears, they have fantastic bottom end. 

 I bought an SR-001 Mk2 system to hotrod and travel with (finished and burning in now) and simply love it. It is amazing how much bottom end comes out of those little stats. They can beat MANY full size cans and once the amp is modded, the top end is all there and the soundstage is great. A special thanks to AudioCat for all his R&D work on the SR-001 system!!!!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thanks for the feedback. Not many brands can claim having such a nice entry-level product


----------



## Michgelsen

Has anybody compared the SR-202 to the SR-404LE? The SR-202 was found by many to be better than the SR-303 and SR-404, but this is also said of the SR-404LE.

 How's the midrange of the SR-404LE, for example?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anybody compared the SR-202 to the SR-404LE? The SR-202 was found by many to be better than the SR-303 and SR-404, but this is also said of the SR-404LE.

 How's the midrange of the SR-404LE, for example?_

 

I have not compared the 404LE to any of the other models you mention but I love them and are a great compliment to my O2 Mk2 which I really love. The 404LE is very open and neutral compared to the O2 which is more laid back. The 404LE also has a bit more slam in the bass. The O2 is still my favorite but on a pristine recording or electronica, I tend to prefer the 404LE.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is correct and I think they are more similar than different. They are slightly dark, have a little bit of roll off on top and when properly seated in you ears, they have fantastic bottom end. 

 I bought an SR-001 Mk2 system to hotrod and travel with (finished and burning in now) and simply love it. It is amazing how much bottom end comes out of those little stats. They can beat MANY full size cans and once the amp is modded, the top end is all there and the soundstage is great. A special thanks to AudioCat for all his R&D work on the SR-001 system!!!!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You forgot to mention that you also listened to my SR-003, because to me the SR-003 on your 717 sound much closer to an O2 than the SR-001.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not compared the 404LE to any of the other models you mention but I love them and are a great compliment to my O2 Mk2 which I really love. The 404LE is very open and neutral compared to the O2 which is more laid back. The 404LE also has a bit more slam in the bass. The O2 is still my favorite but on a pristine recording or electronica, I tend to prefer the 404LE._

 

After I finish paying for my WES I'll have to look to replace the SR-404LE that I sold you.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You forgot to mention that you also listened to my SR-003, because to me the SR-003 on your 717 sound much closer to an O2 than the SR-001._

 

Very true...we will have to work on a portable micro-sized 717.


----------



## dickbianchi

While reading posts on the "baby stax", I realized that I hadn't listened to mine in a long time, even tho the lod i bought made it sound even better.

 The reason was that i was on the go a lot and listened to music for short periods during the day with it and it was easier to use my Shure 420. With no isolation in the stax phones, there was outside noise entering the equation and there was all that extra gear to carry. Isnt worth it to me in that compromised situation. And at home I listen to my big stax stuff. 

 Well I decided to listen to the 001s last night, and I listened to some of the same music from my ipod that I listen to with the Shures. Not surprisingly the baby stax sounded better in almost all respects. 

 However, I found myself missing some of the high end of the range that the Shures extracted, some percussion instruments as well as some other instruments (brass groups) sounded "real" on the Shures and had "space" around them, and this lustre and space had receded when I listened to the OO1s. And I missed it. As expected, however,the vocals trumphed and the midrange and the overall sense of space.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dickbianchi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However, I found myself missing some of the high end of the range that the Shures extracted, some percussion instruments as well as some other instruments (brass groups) sounded "real" on the Shures and had "space" around them, and this lustre and space had receded when I listened to the OO1s. And I missed it. As expected, however,the vocals trumphed and the midrange and the overall sense of space._

 

dickbianchi, I agree with Dinan that you could find modding (or hotrodding) the SR-001 amp could make more than the difference for you. As HeadphoneAddict and Dinan are implying, if you give the SR-001 the right amplification, even scaling up (with an adapter so it's like an SR-003) to a full sized amp will reveal just how much they're capable of.

 Each of the amp mods make a positive improvement, whether you want it to remain not too power hungry - the FatCat mod - or go for the full SuperFatCat mod (I'm lucky enough to have both). Reference - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sta...thread-277049/


----------



## Dinan

Also don't forget burn-in on the 001 system! I put on 300 hours before I modded it and that was a huge difference. I am now on my way to 200 hours (I am at about 115 now) with the SFC+ mod and it is really opening up as those massive caps need burn-in.


----------



## edstrelow

The sound signature of the SR001/003 may resemble the 007 Mk1 but the 007A(Mk2) has a more pronounced treble peak, I would guess mid-treble.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The sound signature of the SR001/003 may resemble the 007 Mk1 but the 007A(Mk2) has a more pronounced treble peak, I would guess mid-treble._

 

Sounds like a good transition phone for Grado users to move to STAX in increments.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The SR-202 was found by many to be better than the SR-303 and SR-404, but this is also said of the SR-404LE._

 


 Spritzer is the only person to my knowledge who has made this claim for the SR-202. If there are others I should like to read the comments that they have made to which you refer.

 Personally I heard bugger all between the SR-202 and the Lambda Pro, but it was at a meet.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Personally I *heard bugger all* between the SR-202 and the Lambda Pro_

 

Heh! Could you translate that for us Colonists?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer is the only person to my knowledge who has made this claim for the SR-202. If there are others I should like to read the comments that they have made to which you refer.

 Personally I heard bugger all between the SR-202 and the Lambda Pro, but it was at a meet._

 

Hmm, then it's probably the reading of Spritzer's comments many times that made me think many people said it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyway, I was thinking about getting the SR-404LE and wanted to know whether it is better than the SR-202 or not. I don't know when but there will be a point where they run out of SR-404LEs.
 The midrange of the SR-202 can be a bit 'telephone-like' sometimes. I think the lower ranges of voices are a bit accentuated, although it luckily never sounds 'off'. I'm so fond of the midrange of the HE60 that I was hoping the SR-404LE comes closer to it than the SR-202. It's a minor complaint though. For the rest I absolutely love my SR-202.

 BTW Duggeh, how cool is the tooltip of the Jecklin Float emoticon!?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not compared the 404LE to any of the other models you mention but I love them and are a great compliment to my O2 Mk2 which I really love. The 404LE is very open and neutral compared to the O2 which is more laid back. The 404LE also has a bit more slam in the bass. The O2 is still my favorite but on a pristine recording or electronica, I tend to prefer the 404LE._

 

Dinan, you have experience with both the HE60 and the SR404LE. How do you think their midranges compare?


----------



## aRRR

I have limited experience with the HE60, 202 and 404LE but from my experience the 404LE midrange sounds more to that of the 202's than the HE60.


----------



## Michgelsen

Okay thanks that's useful information. It does not surprise me, since they have so much in common build-wise.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The midrange of the SR-202 can be a bit 'telephone-like' sometimes. I think the lower ranges of voices are a bit accentuated, although it luckily never sounds 'off'. I'm so fond of the midrange of the HE60 that I was hoping the SR-404LE comes closer to it than the SR-202. It's a minor complaint though. For the rest I absolutely love my SR-202_

 

Huh, i thought all the Lambdas, even the Novas (and except the Pro maybe), had bright mids, not the 202?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dinan, you have experience with both the HE60 and the SR404LE. How do you think their midranges compare?_

 

The HE60 is better on solo female vocals than any STAX I have heard, is more transparent, and better all around for Jazz and Classical. As I listen to Rock, Pop, and Blues, I prefer the 404LE and O2 overall. I just sold my HE60's to iCal as I have an Orpheus replacement to take their place. The HE90 isn't quite as open as the HE60 but more in the middle of the STAX "sound" and the HE60. 

 Hope this helps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE60 is better on solo female vocals than any STAX I have heard, is more transparent, and better all around for Jazz and Classical. As I listen to Rock, Pop, and Blues, I prefer the 404LE and O2 overall. I just sold my HE60's to iCal as *I have an Orpheus replacement to take their place.* The HE90 isn't quite as open as the HE60 but more in the middle of the STAX "sound" and the HE60. 

 Hope this helps._

 

Ahh Maaaan, you svck! Now I'll never be able to keep up with you, and I was beating you for a while.


----------



## MikeLa

Qualia010 / Luxman p1u compared to Stax SR007/mk2 / WooAudio WES
 Source = Mac - firewire - Weiss DAC2

 I'm in the middle of making a decision on the Luxman P1u amp and started reading this thread. I've never listened to a electrostatic setup. I've only seen one review of the Stax/WES combo stating it's the world's best headphone sound. I can skip the Luxman, sell the Qualia's and invest in the WES/007 setup.

 For those of you that have made the switch, do you believe the above setups are different in degree (small) or different in kind (large).

 Thanks for your input.


----------



## The Monkey

In my opinion, this is a pretty easy call--get the Stax rig. But get the O2 mk1 instead of the mk2. I'm a big fan of the Luxman, but even in the short time I spent with the Omega and the WES recently, I feel pretty confident saying that it is a different animal. And you're pretty well sorted on the source front, too.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Has anyone here ever heard the P-1u? Is anyone in line to receive one?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Huh, i thought all the Lambdas, even the Novas (and except the Pro maybe), had bright mids, not the 202?_

 

No I don't find the mids to be bright. The SR-202 never shows (me) any sibilance at all. If there is any emphasis it's in the lower mids. I find them pretty neutral overall.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HE60 is better on solo female vocals than any STAX I have heard, is more transparent, and better all around for Jazz and Classical. As I listen to Rock, Pop, and Blues, I prefer the 404LE and O2 overall. I just sold my HE60's to iCal as I have an Orpheus replacement to take their place. The HE90 isn't quite as open as the HE60 but more in the middle of the STAX "sound" and the HE60. 

 Hope this helps._

 

Yes this helps, thank you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I should just accept that the HE60 has the best midrange that I will ever find in any headphone. It would be great however to find a (cheaper) Stax that can come up to that level. The HE60 is quite an expensive headphone (never mind the HE90!) so selling it would free a lot of money.
 Anyhow, I fully agree with you that classical through the HE60 is totally awesome and that Stax does blues, rock and pop better. Jazz is not often on my playlist, so I can't comment on that.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahh Maaaan, you svck! Now I'll never be able to keep up with you, and I was beating you for a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah but I will never be able to really keep up with your passion for headphones as my "inventory" is pretty small compared to yours so I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes this helps, thank you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I should just accept that the HE60 has the best midrange that I will ever find in any headphone. It would be great however to find a (cheaper) Stax that can come up to that level. The HE60 is quite an expensive headphone (never mind the HE90!) so selling it would free a lot of money.
 Anyhow, I fully agree with you that classical through the HE60 is totally awesome and that Stax does blues, rock and pop better. Jazz is not often on my playlist, so I can't comment on that._

 

For MY tastes, I actually prefer the 404LE to the HE60 to listen to even though there is no question that the HE60 is better. Just another variable to screw things up for you!


----------



## Michgelsen

Haha ok, but I somehow suspect that is not because you like the midrange of the SR-404LE better, or is it?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For MY tastes, I actually prefer the 404LE to the HE60 to listen to even though there is no question that the HE60 is better. Just another variable to screw things up for you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This reminds me of the quote about Wagners' music "it's better music than it sounds."


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah but I will never be able to really keep up with your passion for headphones as my "inventory" is pretty small compared to yours so I wouldn't worry about it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I need to hear your HE90 on my WES someday. I have the HE90 jack but no HE90 yet.


----------



## pzm9pzm9

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to hear your HE90 on my WES someday. I have the HE90 jack but no HE90 yet._

 

oh so you finally got WES. Congrats!

 Im interested in your extensive GES & WES comparision with O2!


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to hear your HE90 on my WES someday. I have the HE90 jack but no HE90 yet._

 

I'm sure you will finagle a pair of HE90 at some point. I think you would love them as I can think of two better headphones than the HE90 and O2.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pzm9pzm9* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh so you finally got WES. Congrats!

 Im interested in your extensive GES & WES comparision with O2!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I went back and forth between my GES and WES at RMAF, and the WES had a bigger wider deeper soundstage and more power, but they both had excellent detail, timbre/tone, and sounded great will all my phones. Jack Wu agreed to sell me the prototype WES that they had at RMAF, so I sold the GES to fund the WES. I should have it in a couple of weeks, after adding RCA loop-outs to the unused jacks in the rear.

 Personally I think the O2 Mk1, Jade and HE60 come close enough to the HE90 that I may never drop the $8-9K on a pair of HE90. No they don't sound the same, but the performance it right up there with all of them, and even my HD800 on the ZDT can compete with the HE60 while having better bass impact.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Hi guys. Sorry if the questions was answered before. Will a STAX T1 be able to drive a 4070 (i usually listen to headphone at medium low volume - 9/10/11 no more) ? I know that it would be better using a 717, but it's more easy to find used T1 it seems.
 Thank you


----------



## padam

Yes it will drive it 'ok', but a 4070 is a rather difficult load (by raising the amp's volume, the sound level increases in a slower rate than with other Stax phones) so I would rather look for a 717, you will be able find one if you look for it hard enough


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes it will drive it 'ok', but a 4070 is a rather difficult load (by raising the amp's volume, the sound level increases in a slower rate than with other Stax phones) so I would rather look for a 717, you will be able find one if you look for it hard enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well if it's only a matter of volume increase shouldn't be a problem...


----------



## padam

No it isn't, considering that even something more efficient than a 4070 is gaining from a more powerful amp, so the difference is there even at normal volume.


----------



## manaox2

I suspect that the higher you turn the volume could impact the quality of amplification as well. SRM-T1 sounds great with Lambdas or most Stax vintage models, but I wouldn't make it my first choice with any of the Sigmas, Omegas or 4070.


----------



## paaj

Isn't the 4070 basically a closed Lambda? Why would it be harder to drive then?


----------



## spritzer

The T1 certainly doesn't like to pushed as the tubes go more and more out of spec. 

 Messing with the backwave will change the characteristics of the driver and thus impact on how the diaphragm behaves. That will change how "easy" they are to drive.


----------



## Bullseye

Hey, for the users with a STAX amp like SRM-323 that has some ventilation holes, when not in use, do you cover it with something so that dust doesn't accumulate?


----------



## Geir

Been getting a reasonable good deal for some srs2020 earspeaker system, but not sure it fits my musical preferences. 
 Rap/Rock/Metal/Power pop/pop ( so not a lot of acoustic/vocal driven music)
 Not a bass head, even though I like the occasional bass attack.

 I would like my first foray into stax territory to be rather cheap, but do not really know where to start.

 Used is definitively an option, but where do I find good deals outside ebay?

 Live in Europe/Norway.

 And have heard the 007's of Krmatis, but that would kill my wallet, and then my wife would kill me
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have been thinking of getting the maverick tube magic d1 to feed my current headphones, and I do assume they can be used to feed the stax's that I might be buying as well.

 All pointers/Suggestions are welcome and appreciated.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, for the users with a STAX amp like SRM-323 that has some ventilation holes, when not in use, do you cover it with something so that dust doesn't accumulate?_

 

You could do that and there would be a positive benefit form it but I don't bother. If dust buildup gets excessive, you can also use a new soft toothbrush to dislodge all the dust from the boards and parts, then blow it out with compressed air.


----------



## Bullseye

I listen to Metal, rock and some Jazz with the SR-202 and it is great! They are "fun" to listen to, not as fun as grado, but pretty good.

 You can buy them from Japan and get a wall power supply for the SRM-252 unit. Only problem is customs, yet even if customs strike you it will be worth getting it from Japan instead of buying it from Europe.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Geir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Been getting a reasonable good deal for some srs2020 earspeaker system, but not sure it fits my musical preferences. 
 Rap/Rock/Metal/Power pop/pop ( so not a lot of acoustic/vocal driven music)
 Not a bass head, even though I like the occasional bass attack.

 I would like my first foray into stax territory to be rather cheap, but do not really know where to start.

 Used is definitively an option, but where do I find good deals outside ebay?

 Live in Europe/Norway.

 And have heard the 007's of Krmatis, but that would kill my wallet, and then my wife would kill me
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have been thinking of getting the maverick tube magic d1 to feed my current headphones, and I do assume they can be used to feed the stax's that I might be buying as well.

 All pointers/Suggestions are welcome and appreciated._

 

I think I will do so for the time being. Don't feel like opening it and taking dust away if I can prevent it doing it that way.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could do that and there would be a positive benefit form it but I don't bother. If dust buildup gets excessive, you can also use a new soft toothbrush to dislodge all the dust from the boards and parts, then blow it out with compressed air._


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Sorry for the noobish questions, but what's the 'preheat' button on some STAX amp like SRM-T1 ? do you need to 'preheat' the amp before using or turning it on ?


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for the noobish questions, but what's the 'preheat' button on some STAX amp like SRM-T1 ? do you need to 'preheat' the amp before using or turning it on ?_

 

It is for preheating the tubes so that they are in specification I believe. I'm not sure about 'need', but I would highly recommend it.


----------



## John Buchanan

The preheat is to soft start the tubes, rather than having the brief bright flash that was common. The idea is to preserve the tubes.


----------



## Bullseye

Well I finally got the ESP950 from Kinsale. I have been using the E/90 so far. Have the SRM-323 and a koss -> Stax adapter. Will try it later to see how under-powering this HPs sounds like. 

 I think I have a problem with one driver, though. It seems that when shipping (most probable), one little piece broke in the left driver (as the pieces connecting the driver to the headband can be moved more than in the right driver). And when I shake the drivers I hear something moving...

 Even so I have lifetime guarantee so there should be no problem it getting a replacement driver.

 Build quality is not that great (coming from STAX). They seem to be rather delicate, and the plastic makes quite a lot of noise.

*Notes after 2 hours trying them:*

 Well, getting back from some time whilst studying I noticed that the left driver has that "squeal". However it is not always present. If I move the driver a bit, I don't listen to it. I believe it has something to do with the piece moving freely inside the left driver. Not a big deal so far.

 I also tried connecting it into the STAX amplifier. As I expected, you just need to put more volume, however not noticeable SQ difference. Similar to my experience from changing from SRM-252 to SRM-323 with the SR-202. Haven't done thorough tests nor any valuable comparison therefore I will give a benefit of doubt. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The E/90 amplifier is not that bad, but not good either. The SRM-252 is of better quality than that. The volume control could have some mark to tell you what approx volume you are using it with. Leveling sound from left to right can become a pain if you twist one more than the other, even if you have lines to match them. 

 For that I give a plus to the use of a STAX amp.

 Will keep trying and try to do some valuable comparison between SR-202 & ESP-950 and will share thoughts here -if anyone interested-

 Final question for European Koss ESP-950 users. Has anyone sent the product to an european repair center? How much money you had to send? (similar to the $6 check as seen on international site?)


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I finally got the ESP950 from Kinsale. I have been using the E/90 so far. Have the SRM-323 and a koss -> Stax adapter. Will try it later to see how under-powering this HPs sounds like. 

 I think I have a problem with one driver, though. It seems that when shipping (most probable), one little piece broke in the left driver (as the pieces connecting the driver to the headband can be moved more than in the right driver). And when I shake the drivers I hear something moving...

 Even so I have lifetime guarantee so there should be no problem it getting a replacement driver.

 Build quality is not that great (coming from STAX). They seem to be rather delicate, and the plastic makes quite a lot of noise._

 

Oh no, sorry to hear that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Luckily, you do have the warranty. I would shoot Koss an email to ask about what you should do for replacement in Europe. ESP950 build quality really isn't the most impressive sadly, the warranty can come in very handy.


----------



## mobbaddict

Interesting feedback Bullseye, i'm quite interested by your 202/950 comparison 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been wondering if the 950 would be worth the extra cash, i can't really convince myself at the moment. If i understand your assessment about the E90 it's pretty much equivalent to the 252 SQwise? Only the build quality is worse?

 I'd love to know more about the neutrality of both headphones


----------



## Bullseye

I did that before the headphones arrived (just in case). They told me to get in contact with my distributor. 

 Even so I am going to give them one or 2 weeks of normal listening, to see how they develop. If I see they really need repair, I will get in contact with them. 

 Also that is why I asked for any European head-fier with the ESP-950, to see what they did and how it went for them with the guarantee. For what I saw at their site, when you register they don't ask for serial number, so I don't see any problem with guarantee. (I hope not, though)


----------



## Bullseye

Well you will have to be patient because I have loads of work to do and won't have much time to do proper comparisons. Maybe during Christmas... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Regarding the E/90 being equivalent to the SRM-252 it wasn't meant to be "SQ-wise", it was only meant build quality. In my opinion I think the SRM-252 is better built and finished, volume control is good and doesn't feel "cheap". For once I am glad I got a good deal on this. 

 Regarding neutrality it is a bit early to give any impression, and even if I try to do some test, in my point of view it will be very unreliable, as volume matching won't be possible at the present time. But if it is enough for you then I will tell you what I think.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting feedback Bullseye, i'm quite interested by your 202/950 comparison 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been wondering if the 950 would be worth the extra cash, i can't really convince myself at the moment. If i understand your assessment about the E90 it's pretty much equivalent to the 252 SQwise? Only the build quality is worse?

 I'd love to know more about the neutrality of both headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Bullseye

Well, been listening to some music all this time, and the piece inside the driver is now at a place most likely in front of the driver, and with the bass of song it starts to move and gets really annoying. So I think I will not wait to see how they go for more time and start getting in contact with the dealer in my country.

 For that reason I'd like to ask, what did you tell the koss distributor in order to get a replacement/fix of the amplifier/headphones/what is needed?

 I don't want to ask something I should not ask, and have problems with the guarantee.


----------



## mobbaddict

No problem thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess it will take time to get your repaired headphone back too.

 I got your point about build quality (and BTW i agree the 212 also has a nice finish) but concerning SQ you said that going from the E90 to the 323 was like going from the 252 to the 323 with the 202, right?


----------



## Bullseye

Yes I said that. And by that I meant that pretty much all of them sounded very similar if not the same to me. I have not had enough time to make any sort of comparison between the three. I am using listening memory as most people do here. That is why i gave it the benefit of the doubt. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also don't have time to do a proper comparison (matching volume via SPL meter), and I want to be as precise as I can with my opinion. 

 Anyways I am off for a very very long time to buy any other HP. I believe the next (apart from selling some I don't use) will be to get some speakers, if I have the room for it. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got your point about build quality (and BTW i agree the 212 also has a nice finish) but concerning SQ you said that going from the E90 to the 323 was like going from the 252 to the 323 with the 202, right?_


----------



## mobbaddict

Thanks for the clarification. Even if you eventually spot a difference between the two amps it's good to hear the E90 holds its own on a quick comparison.


----------



## aRRR

Does anyone here know anything about a STAX Quattro II CD player and how much it is worth these days?


----------



## Bullseye

I know this is not the best thread to ask for Koss ESP-950, but I believe if I create a new one it won't be much answered.

 So, any Koss ESP-950 user from Europe, could you tell me your experience with the guarantee service? What did you do in order to get a replacement unit (new or repaired)?

 ANd getting back on track, anyone has picts of the SRM-323 internals?


----------



## Bullseye

/x2 post massacre


----------



## Michgelsen

I hope this isn't considered spamming (I'm not encouraging anybody to buy anything), but I was quite pleased to find the following.

 Contrary to what people believe (myself included till now) or Spritzer has said, I found out that you can actually buy the SR-202 without the companion amp.
 I found this German site that sells it separately for EUR 408: christophzingel.de | Kopfhörer
 It's not even that expensive if you ask me.

 Just thought I'd share this with you.

 This can be the ultimate Stax bargain, together with an eXStata for example, if you want to buy new instead of used.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope this isn't considered spamming (I'm not encouraging anybody to buy anything), but I was quite pleased to find the following.

 Contrary to what people believe (myself included till now) or Spritzer has said, I found out that you can actually buy the SR-202 without the companion amp.
 I found this German site that sells it separately for EUR 408: christophzingel.de | Kopfhörer
 It's not even that expensive if you ask me.

 Just thought I'd share this with you.

 This can be the ultimate Stax bargain, together with an eXStata for example, if you want to buy new instead of used._

 

Might be a deal for you but would suck in the US because it would be $600+.

 Try this Woo


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope this isn't considered spamming (I'm not encouraging anybody to buy anything), but I was quite pleased to find the following.

 Contrary to what people believe (myself included till now) or Spritzer has said, I found out that you can actually buy the SR-202 without the companion amp.
 I found this German site that sells it separately for EUR 408: christophzingel.de | Kopfhörer
 It's not even that expensive if you ask me.

 Just thought I'd share this with you.

 This can be the ultimate Stax bargain, together with an eXStata for example, if you want to buy new instead of used._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Might be a deal for you but would suck in the US because it would be $600+.

 Try this Woo_

 

I see Audiocubes2 selling the 202 for US$399.00.

 None of these prices look that good considering that a 404 is generally available on E-bay for $400 -$500. That would be worth it to get the thinner diaphragm and better cable.


----------



## aRRR

You can get a NEW stax 404LE for 700$ including shipping at ebay.


----------



## Coreyk78

I thought about which Stax to buy for a long time and I ended up buying the 404 on Ebay last Friday. The cheapest place I found selling the 202 by itself was Woo for $350, I bought the 404 for $450. For 100 bucks I figured I might as well go with the higher model and get the nicer cable. The poor 303 was ignored by me, that always happens to the middle child right? 

 Too bad you have to shell out for the 404 LE to get them in black, I haven't seen the brown in person yet so who knows? It might be a really nice brown. Either way I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my new 404's


----------



## gilency

The 404's don't get a lot of love here, but I personally like it a lot.
 The edginess in treble and mid bass hump has been described by many, but I find I like the deep bass and highs they have.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404's don't get a lot of love here, but I personally like it a lot.
 The edginess in treble and mid bass hump has been described by many, but I find I like the deep bass and highs they have._

 


 Stax version of the Grado sound!


----------



## manaox2

I'm fairly certain Spritzer knows you can buy them separately. Elusivedisk sells them in the US.


----------



## spritzer

You can buy the separately but it's not something Stax wants it's resellers to do. Case in point, look at the Stax site and try to find the SR-202 listed amongst the other headphones. It isn't and the same goes for SR-Lambda Spirit/Classic and Nova Basic back in the day.


----------



## Bullseye

Can anyone answer to my last questions on page 813 at the end?


----------



## pmac

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Talcum powder used sparringly solves your problem

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I know it is a long time since this post, but I have had other matters to deal with. Tried this at the weekend and it works wonderfully well, thank you very much for the advice.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone answer to my last questions on page 813 at the end?_

 

This one I guess...
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ANd getting back on track, anyone has picts of the SRM-323 internals?_

 

Then you find some pictures here:
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-1.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-2.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-3.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-4.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-5.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-6.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-7.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-8.jpg
http://earsp.web.fc2.com/lineup/srm-...m323a-2p-9.jpg

 Source: STAX SRM-323A


----------



## Bullseye

Cheers krmathis!


----------



## pompon

I just buyed O2Mk1 + SRM-007tII ... 
 I am in the club now ... 
 I don't have it yet but it's just 10 min car ride to get it. I heard it last evening and it's great ... Now will be easy to test HD650, HD800, Stax together.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just buyed O2Mk1 + SRM-007tII ... 
 I am in the club now ... 
 I don't have it yet but it's just 10 min car ride to get it. I heard it last evening and it's great ... Now will be easy to test HD650, HD800, Stax together._

 

Congrats! Report back on your thoughts!


----------



## tamahome77

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just buyed O2Mk1 + SRM-007tII ... 
 I am in the club now ... 
 I don't have it yet but it's just 10 min car ride to get it. I heard it last evening and it's great ... Now will be easy to test HD650, HD800, Stax together._

 

I've heard both the SRM-007tII and SRM-717. If you can get yourself the 717s, do not hesitate to get it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The 717 really helps tighten the bass and gives it a little more bass impact and clarity. The 007tII do not sound bad at all and is far from that. The 007tII is more mellow sounding


----------



## Opethian

SRD-X Pro v SRM-T1S

 I have an SRD-X Pro and
 a chance to buy a SRM-T1S.

 How much better is the T1S
 over the SRD-X if at all?

 Thanks in advance for any
 opinions.


----------



## webbie64

Only had a T1 (not the S version) but definitely an SQ improvement, and greater modification potential to further improve it.

 Obviously the degree of difference will vary depending on what you're wanting to run out of them - easier to drive ESPs won't be as big a difference as those appreciating the better power.

 However you can't take the T1S in a bag whilst travelling and run it off batteries so I'd still hang onto the SRD-X Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Opethian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SRD-X Pro v SRM-T1S

 I have an SRD-X Pro and
 a chance to buy a SRM-T1S.

 How much better is the T1S
 over the SRD-X if at all?

 Thanks in advance for any
 opinions. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## padam

Definitely an improvement, but the Sigma will sound quite muddy with a T1S, not a good match at all (if you are intending to use it with that). As I saw you have the SRD-7SB as well, with a good speaker amp it is better with the Sigma.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely an improvement, but the Sigma will sound quite muddy with a T1S, not a good match at all (if you are intending to use it with that). As I saw you have the SRD-7SB as well, with a good speaker amp it is better with the Sigma._

 

Very good point - thanks, padam (I was on the run and didn't have time to see Opethian's profile consisted of a Stax SR Sigma and Stax Gamma Pro).

 padam is right on the money regarding the Sigma and a good speaker amp with the energiser. I first came to HeadFi with exactly that combo, thinking there'd be significant improvement from other amps.

 I actually got my SRM-T1 at the time and, although I enjoyed it as my first dedicated electrostatic headphone amp, I was always hankering to mod it the way spritzer had, with improved (silver) point to point wiring (IIRC) and potentially tube rolling. Of course I ended up going different paths but the experience still counts.

 I don't use my Sigmas (404 or Normal) with the SRD-X Pro for the same reasons padam has mentioned regarding the SRM-T1S - it just can't drive them to as good a performance as the good amp/energiser combo (In my experience/opinion - others, of course, may differ/disagree).

 So, yes, an SRM-T1S would improve things, but you may well find not as much as you want, with a hankering to further improve what it is delivering.


----------



## paaj

So, I received my T1W. Here is a pic of the inside:



 

 It is supposed to be set to 110V now, but I'd like it at 220V.

 There is some kind of jumper in the cable mess, is it just a replacing of that one? or do I need to rewire all cables?


----------



## pearljam5000

Congrats!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 waiting for your comparisons
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just buyed O2Mk1 + SRM-007tII ... 
 I am in the club now ... 
 I don't have it yet but it's just 10 min car ride to get it. I heard it last evening and it's great ... Now will be easy to test HD650, HD800, Stax together._


----------



## spritzer

See the black box where all the wires are solder to, that's the switch. Remove the bottom of the amp and you'll see it.


----------



## paaj

ok, I see the switch. Any secret to this thing? it does not feel like a slider.


----------



## spritzer

It's a plug/socket affair so you full out the plug and and move it so the white arrow points to the desired voltage (240V for Europe).


----------



## paaj

doublepost


----------



## paaj

Found it, thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I overlooked the 220V/100V selection so thought it should slide or something but it didn't feel loose. Anyway, I got it out so that's one problem out of the way. I thought Europe is 220V? That's what I've always learned at school. Would it make a difference if it is 220 or 240?

 Now I need to try to reconnect the selection knob, it fell of during transport, and fix the power-on LED.


 ...
 read around and it seems we are updated to 230V... so confusing. I think I'll set it at 240V to be safe.



 ...
 hmmm, started it up without the front cover and now one resistor is blown. Possibly because the LED was not connected? It is right next to the LED wires, R54.


----------



## spritzer

Europe switched to 230V about 15-20 years ago but you often see close to 240v depending on load. The PSU's Stax uses vary with the line voltage so it runs cooler on 240V setting. 

 A blown led will not take out a resistor, it just stops conducting. Are you talking about the external power led's or the ones on the PCB?


----------



## paaj

the external led. I had the front-cover removed to try reconnect the selector knob so the power LED was not connected


----------



## Opethian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely an improvement, but the Sigma will sound quite muddy with a T1S, not a good match at all (if you are intending to use it with that). As I saw you have the SRD-7SB as well, with a good speaker amp it is better with the Sigma._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very good point - thanks, padam (I was on the run and didn't have time to see Opethian's profile consisted of a Stax SR Sigma and Stax Gamma Pro).

 padam is right on the money regarding the Sigma and a good speaker amp with the energiser. I first came to HeadFi with exactly that combo, thinking there'd be significant improvement from other amps.

 I actually got my SRM-T1 at the time and, although I enjoyed it as my first dedicated electrostatic headphone amp, I was always hankering to mod it the way spritzer had, with improved (silver) point to point wiring (IIRC) and potentially tube rolling. Of course I ended up going different paths but the experience still counts.

 I don't use my Sigmas (404 or Normal) with the SRD-X Pro for the same reasons padam has mentioned regarding the SRM-T1S - it just can't drive them to as good a performance as the good amp/energiser combo (In my experience/opinion - others, of course, may differ/disagree).

 So, yes, an SRM-T1S would improve things, but you may well find not as much as you want, with a hankering to further improve what it is delivering._

 

Thanks for the good advice the 
 both of you, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm happy to take
 it onboard. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Has anyone every tweaked a
 Stax SRD-X Pro?


----------



## padam

Probably not since it is a fairly rare sight and it wasn't designed for power in mind. A DIY KGSS would probably sound awesome with the Sigma though


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paaj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the external led. I had the front-cover removed to try reconnect the selector knob so the power LED was not connected_

 

If the wires weren't shorted then the missing LED should have no effect on the resistor.


----------



## paaj

That's what you'd think right? Strange. It must have been shorted, I turned it on and it was an immediate 'poof'. Apart from the blown resistor the amp seems to work fine. 
 Anyway, I'll sort my problems and put them in a DIY topic.


----------



## spritzer

With the LED gone then it is an open circuit so no way to burn anything 
 unless it accidentally shorted to ground.


----------



## Clarkmc2

I see a certain Icelandic T2 is for sale on Audiogon. If only I had the $.


----------



## spritzer

It's a bit cheaper over here...


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a bit cheaper over here... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am kidding of course. I like simple amps where if you removed anything it would not work. The T2 has all those relays, etc. I have to wonder how much easier it would have been to manufacture without the bells and whistles.

 Possibly unrelated, but I have found that if a component needs relays to avoid turn on noise it should have been designed better in the first place. High end has no place for band-aids. That "feature," like contact interrupt switches in headphone jacks on integrated amps, belongs on crappy Japanese receivers.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

Stax lost money on every T2 so it wouldn't have mattered. If it sold today it would be 20K+. 

 As for the relays, you need them for input switching and to preheat the valves. The T2 and the newer Stax amps also have a relay on the output of the amp plus a servo which will shut it off if something is wrong.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stax lost money on every T2 so it wouldn't have mattered. If it sold today it would be 20K+. _

 

I know it is a bargain at your price, I just don't have it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


 As for the relays, you need them for input switching and to preheat the valves. The T2 and the newer Stax amps also have a relay on the output of the amp plus a servo which will shut it off if something is wrong. 
 

I get your drift, but each solution is way more complicated than it has to be. The input switching does not need to be push button, for instance. No wonder I like SET point to point integrated. Guys like me who drink green tea instead of alcohol remember to turn things down before turning on or changing anything and don't need to be protected against ourselves. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, I have found the SRM-007tII very much to my liking, luckily. It is a function of what I like to listen to and how I like to listen to it. That is not to say I might not like something else even more.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know it is a bargain at your price, I just don't have it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I wouldn't call it a bargain but it is what it is. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get your drift, but each solution is way more complicated than it has to be. The input switching does not need to be push button, for instance. No wonder I like SET point to point integrated. Guys like me who drink green tea instead of alcohol remember to turn things down before turning on or changing anything and don't need to be protected against ourselves. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way, I have found the SRM-007tII very much to my liking, luckily. It is a function of what I like to listen to and how I like to listen to it. That is not to say I might not like something else even more.

 Clark_

 

I to prefer huge volume pots and even larger Shallco switches to the modern equivalents but they are very expensive and worse yet, adds dramatically to the manufacturing costs since it is more labor intensive.


----------



## Stereo_Sanchez

The Orpheus has a relay incorporated in its startup circuit, so that's not unheard of at the ultra-high end.


----------



## spritzer

I personally wouldn't place the HEV90 at ultra highend or anywhere near it based on the design and parts Sennheiser used. That they had the gall to charge so much for it still amazes me. 

 That aside, most tube amps need some way to delay the HV from reaching the tubes until they are fully warmed up. Back in the days of tube rectifiers they needed to warm up as well so effectively a built in delay. With solid state rectifiers relays (wither mechanical or SS) do the job.


----------



## Philimon

I just purchased a Lambda Nova Basic and an SRD7MKIISB on ebay. The description said that the buyer had purchased them new only three years ago. I thought the Nova line was out of production a LONG time ago, and is now replaced by the 202/303/404, etc line-up. Am I incorrect? 

 One more question: Where again do I purchase replacement earpads?

 I might write a comparison between my AD900 and the STAX - just for fun. At least one individual might find it actually helpful:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/ad900-vs-stax-458740/

 The Nova Basic will be my first STAX headphone. I first tried several at last summer's NorCal meet. I preferred the Lambda style headphones vs the two 007s they had on hand (meet conditions remind you and only brief listening sessions). However, that could be just my wallet talking... I will be using the SRD7 with my vintage Luxman R1050 which is known to have a warm sounding amp section. Hopefully there will be good synergy.

 Thank you,

 Philimon


----------



## gilency

here:
Audio Cubes II - High Fidelity Audio Products


----------



## Philimon

Thank you gilency. I was thinking getting a different ear pad color other than black... 

 Received message from seller:
 The seller explains that the description "new" was actually "new to him". He said that he had bought them from a Stax dealer which had them in inventory (he did not specify if they were NIB, refurbished, etc). He said the SRD7SBMKII was in fact old and plenty used. He also answered that he had never heard of Head-Fi, but did explain that he was pursuing an upgrade to an RS1. Good news is he will be shipping them out tomorrow with tracking.

 The foam has been removed by the seller. I have read mixed opinions on how this effects sound quality... How much is it to get replacement foam (and from where)?


----------



## gilency

I have the SRD7MKII. I wonder how it compares with the SRD7SBMKII sound wise.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Philimon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you gilency. I was thinking getting a different ear pad color other than black... 

 Received message from seller:
 The seller explains that the description "new" was actually "new to him". He said that he had bought them from a Stax dealer which had them in inventory (he did not specify if they were NIB, refurbished, etc). He said the SRD7SBMKII was in fact old and plenty used. He also answered that he had never heard of Head-Fi, but did explain that he was pursuing an upgrade to an RS1. Good news is he will be shipping them out tomorrow with tracking.

 The foam has been removed by the seller. I have read mixed opinions on how this effects sound quality... How much is it to get replacement foam (and from where)?_

 

Front (earside) foam or back? I have removed the back foam from my 2 Lambdas (404 and Signature) and much prefer their sound that way. There is a better isoundstage and less midrange honk and etch. I keep the earside foam even though the sound is probably bit cleaner and has more treble without it, because the drivers need the foam for protection in the front more than the backside.

 You can get back foam for about $12.00 from the US distributer, Yamasinc. Front foam normally comes attached to the earpads and you would need new pads, from Yamasinc or Audiocubes, about $40.00.


----------



## Philimon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the SRD7MKII. I wonder how it compares with the SRD7SBMKII sound wise._

 

Allow me to borrow your STAX headphone, and you can borrow my phone/adapter. In whichever order you prefer.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Front (earside) foam or back? I have removed the back foam from my 2 Lambdas (404 and Signature) and much prefer their sound that way. There is a better isoundstage and less midrange honk and etch. I keep the earside foam even though the sound is probably bit cleaner and has more treble without it, because the drivers need the foam for protection in the front more than the backside.

 You can get back foam for about $12.00 from the US distributer, Yamasinc. Front foam normally comes attached to the earpads and you would need new pads, from Yamasinc or Audiocubes, about $40.00._

 

Thank you edstrelow. I do not know which foams had been removed... I have read your impressions on the foam removal before. Your logic sounds good to me, but I would still like to try for myself. I have also read that different ear pads can change the sound as well (I recall Spritzer recommends the 303 version).


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Philimon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have also read that different ear pads can change the sound as well (I recall Spritzer recommends the 303 version)._

 

I don't know about 303 vs. other pads, but I can tell you that the new 303 pads (thinner, with detachable cloth) sound different and IMO worse than the old 303 pads (thicker, with sewed foam). The foam in my old pads disintegrated, so I have ordered new pads. I didn't like their sound, so I bought some of this foam, cut it in shape and fitted it into the old pads using some glue like the one used for repairing shoes (I don't know the English word). Happy.


----------



## gilency

[QUOTE Philimon;6224570:Allow me to borrow your STAX headphone, and you can borrow my phone/adapter. In whichever order you prefer]

 LOL. I would but I have only one set of Staxes and would go into withdrawals without them. Let me tell you, I was sure I was going to purchase the SR-007's soon but I am enjoying the Sigma Pro's so much with my current setting that I don't feel much of a need to upgrade ATM. I am sure I will, but right now I am very happy, tank you very much.


----------



## Philimon

Thank you for the heads up Don!
 And gilency, I had to try...


----------



## pompon

Any way to prevent the O2's pad to turn ? I find that very annoying ....
 Need to adjust all time I put them. When I am in the dark ... have to open light to adjust and close light.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any way to prevent the O2's pad to turn ? I find that very annoying ....
 Need to adjust all time I put them. When I am in the dark ... have to open light to adjust and close light._

 

I know what you mean. How about some electrical tape jammed into the space between the pad and the metal holder?


 BTW anyone know how to tighten up the elastic at the top? Mine is getting stretched to the point of not holding the phones well on my head.


----------



## vcoheda

can anyone tell me the length of the stax pins.

 i had my HE60 reterminated to a stax pin and i am wondering if it is short?

 thanks


----------



## gilency

Ed: how happy are you with the SR-007 mk2's? are you satisfied with them not to wish you should have gone with the mk1's?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ed: how happy are you with the SR-007 mk2's? are you satisfied with them not to wish you should have gone with the mk1's?_

 

Perfectly happy but I use the Spritzer spring mod which basically brings the drivers closer to the ear.

 I had a chance to swap around with the Mk1's at the last Canjam and found very little to differentiate the two. There were some subtle sound differences but not much. The 007Mk2 has a bit more treble, which was good, and gave a bit more bite and detail but also tape hiss on old recordings. Also it had a somewhat boomier bass which was not so good, but also a bit deeper bass which was good. I didn't like the excessive electrostatic fart of the Mk1 which is due to the complete seal of the Mk1 vs the vented cups of the Mk2.

 I think the unmodded Mk2 has a somewhat uneven frequency response compared to the Mk1 and the spring mod reduces, but does not eliminate this entirely. On the other hand the Mk1 is somewhat lacking in upper frequencies.

 I would say that these differences become less important as the amplification and source get better. Both scale up quite well.


----------



## gilency

Thank you for your response. Based on your posts, I think my preferences are more similar to yours than others. I am still thorn between having to choose one over the other. And no, my wife would not let me get both!
 Actually I am quite happy with the Sigma Pro's right now, and with an ExStata coming my way very soon, I still wonder whether the 007's will really add that much more to my listening experience. And if they do, which one to get........
 Now I am even more confused after reading Sachu's comments preferring the HE-5 over all Stats!


----------



## The Monkey

I love my O2 mk1 and will never part with it. But I also miss my unmodded O2 mk2. A lot to like about that headphone.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you for your response. Based on your posts, I think my preferences are more similar to yours than others. I am still thorn between having to choose one over the other. And no, my wife would not let me get both!
 Actually I am quite happy with the Sigma Pro's right now, and with an ExStata coming my way very soon, I still wonder whether the 007's will really add that much more to my listening experience. And if they do, which one to get........
 Now I am even more confused after reading Sachu's comments preferring the HE-5 over all Stats!_

 

I understand your dilemma and would recommend the obvious....buy them both and spend a week with them. Keep your favorite and sell the other. Provided you can find them, the only thing you will loose are the transaction costs if that. THe STAX market is strong to say the least.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you for your response. Based on your posts, I think my preferences are more similar to yours than others. I am still thorn between having to choose one over the other. And no, my wife would not let me get both!
 Actually I am quite happy with the Sigma Pro's right now, and with an ExStata coming my way very soon, I still wonder whether the 007's will really add that much more to my listening experience. And if they do, which one to get........
 Now I am even more confused after reading Sachu's comments preferring the HE-5 over all Stats!_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand your dilemma and would recommend the obvious....buy them both and spend a week with them. Keep your favorite and sell the other. Provided you can find them, the only thing you will loose are the transaction costs if that. THe STAX market is strong to say the least._

 

It is not always easy to say what is best because some components favor one type of music. 

 I would say that the 007's Mk1 and Mk2 are the best all-around phones I have heard, with remarkable detail, definition and imaging and yet when I put on choral or opera, I prefer the Sigma/404. There is something about the more natural soundstage of the Sigmas (all of them, low bias, Pro and 404) which just works real well with this kind of music and that the 007's just don't have. 

 This preference is sometimes marginal but sometimes very pronounced. I had recently upgraded some DACs in my systems and was enjoying the improved sound on all the phones. So I put on an old digital recording of Handel Messiah on the 007 Mk2 thinking "this will be great." But it wasn't, in fact it was rather disappointing. Finally I tried the Sigma/404 and there it was, the impact and detail I was hoping to hear. 

 I can't fully explain this, some may be due to a lack of upper mid frequencies in the 007A but I suspect it has more to do with the way the human voice floats in the larger soundfield of the Sigmas. It is a lot nicer to listen to on the Sigmas.


----------



## gilency

I truly understand your love for the Sigmas. I keep listening to Bach's chorales and I am always amazed at the clarity of the voices, with absolute lack of sibilance, which makes them very enjoyable and non fatiguing.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can anyone tell me the length of the stax pins.

 i had my HE60 reterminated to a stax pin and i am wondering if it is short?

 thanks_

 

I measured them on my Lambda Signature and they are 11.1 mm long.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think the last one I measured was 7/16 of an inch.


----------



## paaj

that would be the same as Michgelsen measured


----------



## vcoheda

thanks!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I truly understand your love for the Sigmas. I keep listening to Bach's chorales and I am always amazed at the clarity of the voices, with absolute lack of sibilance, which makes them very enjoyable and non fatiguing._

 

Gilency and Ed, agreed.


----------



## Dominat0r

double post


----------



## Dominat0r

new to the stax scene....have took the plunge, sold off my HD650s to peice together a pair of Lambda pros and a SRM-1 MK2. 

 Im amazed at this setup....its FANTASTIC...i really does sing for my jazz collection. Ive discovered my music all over again.

 right now, i should be sound asleep in my bed, however im just stuck listening to Anthony Wilson (Saivity, 2005)...the sound of him hitting the snare is magical!


----------



## manaox2

Glad to hear you got them, Staxes are magical creatures indeed.


----------



## mobbaddict

I got my first Stax recently, a pair of SR-003. I was preparing a feedback for this thread but i might transform that into a review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway they're great, quite above anything i've heard until then. Easily a league above universal IEMs such as PFEs or RE0s (that i both liked better than AD900s or unamped DT880s). Great tonal balance overall, slightly dark because of the recessed treble but still very transparent. Incredible speed, dynamics and impact. Mind-blowing soundstage for earphones with the right source.

 I also had a chance to audition the O2 Mk2, i was even more impressed. I'm debating whether it's worth the price or not (second hand of course). Before getting the SR-003 i was thinking of getting a pair of Lambdas but i fear the treble etch even more now that i discovered the dark side of Stax 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Basically i just want something neutral (more treble and deep bass than the SR-003), fast, with a good imaging. I'm wondering if the ESP 950 would be a step in the right direction as well in terms of neutrality. Any input would be very much appreciated


----------



## ical

You can check out the 404LE. It sound neutral with good bass. It does reminds me slightly of HE60 but with more punch.


----------



## mobbaddict

Would it sound neutral even with a cheap SRM-212? But it's a bit expensive for me anyway (i know the 007 is twice the price but i would be done with upgrading headphones if i bought it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). I'm thinking of the Nova Signature too.


----------



## ical

I've yet to hear the SRM-212 so can't comment. However, I do believe that 404LE still sound good. And it much easier to drive than O2. It's limited edition so get it before it's gone.


----------



## Philimon

mobbaddict, I am glad to hear you finally have something you really enjoy.

 I still have the AD900 and am upgrading to the Lambda Nova Basic and SRD7MKII combo (in transit). If you already have a quality speaker amp - it could be even cheaper to get an SRD adapter instead of the 212.


----------



## mobbaddict

I'll keep an eye on it ical thanks.

 Thanks Philimon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I already have the 212 and i find it very convenient, it's so small! I think it's able to drive all the Stax headphones as long as the source is good (even the O2 sounded great out of an high end DAC and through the 212). The Novas look like a good compromise but since i've never heard any Lambda... i look forward to your comparison with the AD900


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my first Stax recently, a pair of SR-003. I was preparing a feedback for this thread but i might transform that into a review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Anyway they're great, quite above anything i've heard until then. Easily a league above universal IEMs such as PFEs or RE0s (that i both liked better than AD900s or unamped DT880s). Great tonal balance overall, slightly dark because of the recessed treble but still very transparent. Incredible speed, dynamics and impact. Mind-blowing soundstage for earphones with the right source.

 I also had a chance to audition the O2 Mk2, i was even more impressed. I'm debating whether it's worth the price or not (second hand of course). Before getting the SR-003 i was thinking of getting a pair of Lambdas but i fear the treble etch even more now that i discovered the dark side of Stax 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Basically i just want something neutral (more treble and deep bass than the SR-003), fast, with a good imaging. I'm wondering if the ESP 950 would be a step in the right direction as well in terms of neutrality. Any input would be very much appreciated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 The dreaded treble etch of the Lambdas is in my opinion eliminated by removing the foam in the back (not the earside).

 The 02's will run off the smaller Stax amps but need a bigger amp, such as a 717 to give you a real feel for them. I didn't like them at all on my SRM3, but they were better with an SRM1Mk2, possibly because of the higher voltage swings of the SRM1. 

 Some people like the Koss 950 a lot. You would need to either build a Koss-Stax adapter cord or recable the Koss with a Stax cable to get it to run on a Stax amp. I had a 950 for many years and tried the Stax adapter route. Finally I sold the 950 and kept 2 Lambdas, the 404 and Signature. Both with back foam removed.


----------



## John Buchanan

I would suggest that anybody wanting a cheapish second hand amplifier for Stax headphones consider an SRM 1 Mk 2 Pro, as Ed has suggested. It scales up well for an O2Mk1 and drives the Lambdas well


----------



## mobbaddict

Thanks for the advice ed, i may try that if i get a Lambda. Any other comparison between the SR-003 and other stats is welcome. I don't want to lose the strong balanced mids of the 003.


----------



## gilency

I finally got my eXStata today. They have plenty of power to drive the Sigma Pro's. They make them sing! There is no distortion at max volumes, which I tried but could not keep them on. They sound better than the SRD7mk2's with more detail and plenty of bass.
 I am thrilled by this combo: Gamma 2 + SS eXStata + Sigma Pros.
 Now I need to hear it the 007mk1's!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Now I need to hear it the 007mk1's!*_

 

Yes, you do...


----------



## gilency

I have been comparing the eXStata with the SRD7mk2 tonight. Whether is Jack Johnson or Bach's chorales, there is a definite difference in the level of detail, bass and overall sound richness. I will keep the transformer box as a back up, but for day to day listening the eXStata wins hands down. Bach's organ works resonate with a deep rumbling bass which reminds me of a live organ performance. (My local church has a beautiful Casavant organ I listen to every weekend). Vocal solos are sweet and realistic.
 Couldn't be happier with the sound....for the time being...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been comparing the eXStata with the SRD7mk2 tonight. Whether is Jack Johnson or Bach's chorales, there is a definite difference in the level of detail, bass and overall sound richness. I will keep the transformer box as a back up, but for day to day listening the eXStata wins hands down. Bach's organ works resonate with a deep rumbling bass which reminds me of a live organ performance. (My local church has a beautiful Casavant organ I listen to every weekend). Vocal solos are sweet and realistic.
 Couldn't be happier with the sound....for the time being... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good that you are happy with the amp. I have not used a transformer with Stax in quite a few years but I get the impression from some transformer users that you may get better dynamics with the transformer because of the potentially greater power of the power amplifier feeding the transformer . Any thoughts on that?


----------



## bird_0f_fire

Does anyone know if there are any NOS O2mkI's available? Thanks!


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been comparing the eXStata with the SRD7mk2 tonight. Whether is Jack Johnson or Bach's chorales, there is a definite difference in the level of detail, bass and overall sound richness. I will keep the transformer box as a back up, but for day to day listening the eXStata wins hands down._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good that you are happy with the amp. I have not used a transformer with Stax in quite a few years but I get the impression from some transformer users that you may get better dynamics with the transformer because of the potentially greater power of the power amplifier feeding the transformer . Any thoughts on that?_

 

Well the SQ from the transformer will definitely be affected by what's feeding it, no doubt about that. Recently I bought a Pioneer A400, which isn't a bad speaker amp by all accounts, but although it performs quite reasonably through an SRD7Pro it is in no way the performance I get from my Naim 32.5/250 through the same transformer.

 Boy I wish I had more time to get my own exStatas up and running


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good that you are happy with the amp. I have not used a transformer with Stax in quite a few years but I get the impression from some transformer users that you may get better dynamics with the transformer because of the potentially greater power of the power amplifier feeding the transformer . Any thoughts on that?_

 

I have used the SRD7mk2 with a Yamaha integrated amplifier and with my vintage Kenwood amplifier.
 The eXStata sounds much better in all aspects. Punchy deep bass, clear highs and lots of detail. It does not sound sterile or anything like that. May be the SRDmk7 sound better with better amps, but I don't feel the need to find out ATM. I am not planniing in selling them though. They are a good back up system.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have used the SRD7mk2 with a Yamaha integrated amplifier and with my vintage Kenwood amplifier.
 The eXStata sounds much better in all aspects. Punchy deep bass, clear highs and lots of detail. It does not sound sterile or anything like that. May be the SRDmk7 sound better with better amps, but I don't feel the need to find out ATM. I am not planniing in selling them though. They are a good back up system._

 

 Who would want an old SRD7Mk2 anyway? (JOKE!)


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if there are any NOS O2mkI's available? Thanks!_

 

Everything is available somewhere. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, the best I was able to come up with were a nearly unused pair that a friend had in his closet.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Here i am again, asking the opinion of some electrostats guru. I know that Stax top headphone like 007 and 4070 need some really good amplifier to express their full character, but those amplifier usually costs a lot. So at the moment i have the chance to get something on the used mark.

 If you will have too choose one of the following item, to power in the future a STAX 007/4070 which will you choose ?

 - STAX SRM 006t
 - STAX SRD-7 PRO/SB/MKII (i have a Marantz PM8003 to par with)

 I know they are really not the best, but the most cheap amp is now the WooAudio GES (1450$ + Shipping + Customs), and i can't really afford this + Headphone.

 Thank you all


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bird_0f_fire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know if there are any NOS O2mkI's available? Thanks!_

 

Yes there are. A few months ago I was given an offer of 3000 EUR from an EU distributor for a NOS O2 Mk1 with the SRM-717 DM (that is the studio version of the 717 with added multichannel monitoring feature). Expensive but not that bad considering both are completely new with warranty.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here i am again, asking the opinion of some electrostats guru. I know that Stax top headphone like 007 and 4070 need some really good amplifier to express their full character, but those amplifier usually costs a lot. So at the moment i have the chance to get something on the used mark.

 If you will have too choose one of the following item, to power in the future a STAX 007/4070 which will you choose ?

 - STAX SRM 006t
 - STAX SRD-7 PRO/SB/MKII (i have a Marantz PM8003 to par with)

 I know they are really not the best, but the most cheap amp is now the WooAudio GES (1450$ + Shipping + Customs), and i can't really afford this + Headphone.

 Thank you all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Without any question at all the SRM-006 will outperform the transformer (SRD-7) running off of your Marantz or most anything else you can squeeze into that budget or beyond. Also, the differences will not be subtle! 

 Why no SRM-717 on your list as I would tend to prefer that to a GES (but not WES) and they are typically $925-1050 delivered?


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Without any question at all the SRM-006 will outperform the transformer (SRD-7) running off of your Marantz or most anything else you can squeeze into that budget or beyond. Also, the differences will not be subtle! 

 Why no SRM-717 on your list as I would tend to prefer that to a GES (but not WES) and they are typically $925-1050 delivered?_

 

Thank for the answer. Well, SRM-717 seems to be quite rare!Never saw one for sale actually... but maybe i missed it? I am also following a STAX T1...


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you will have too choose one of the following item, to power in the future a STAX 007/4070 which will you choose ?

 - STAX SRM 006t
 - STAX SRD-7 PRO/SB/MKII (i have a Marantz PM8003 to par with)
_

 

I'm sure there could be a variety of opinions on this one so please consider this as IMHO...

 I'd go for the SRD7Pro (or a MkII if you needed to power some Normal Bias ESPs as well).

 My reasoning is that I recall the 006t is based on the SRM-T1 approach and, given that, I'd likely opt for the likely more cost effective SRM-T1 and then look at mods to maximise it performance. However even those that have tried that approach (spritzer IIRC?) have moved up the amplifier chain towards KGBH, recognising the limits of the SRM amps.

 On the other hand the transformers IMHO do tend to scale up with better, cleaner amplification, but they do need the best to show the O2 at its best and, even then, obviously are unlikely to get you to dedicated high-end electostatic amp levels (i.e. KGBH). So if you scaled up your speaker amp over time then you'd be also scaling up your ESP amplification, which might be the better option both immediately and long term, particularly if you never saw yourself as likely being in WES or KGBH territory.

 Like I said, just IMHO based on my experiences (ex-owner of SRM-T1 unmodded, current owner of Woo GES and SRD7Pros, soon to find the time to put my ExStatAs together to see how viable they are as a cost effective option 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why no SRM-717 on your list as I would tend to prefer that to a GES (but not WES) and they are typically $925-1050 delivered?_

 

This was posted as I was writing the above and I'd have to agree that the SRM-717 would be the best option if you can find one at a typical secondhand price - I agree that they don't come up too often - but they do come up!


----------



## mobbaddict

I'd like to mention how important the seal is with the Baby Stax (SR-001/003). I've been going back and forth between the small stock tips and some Sony IEMs tips for a few days (i usually use the big stock tips), trying to decide which one sounds better, but i was constantly underwhelmed. I didn't recognize anymore the ethereal sound i used to love and even started hearing some etch in the vocals! I thought the honey moon period was over or something. Already saw myself selling the whole unit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yesterday i said hell why not going back to those big uncomfortable stock tips? They sounded glorious again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And actually they're not so uncomfortable, i just have to insert them gently into my ear canals and then i'm good for a few hours listening 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 edit: forgot to mention that the headband is crap SQwise


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to mention how important the seal is with the Baby Stax (SR-001/003). I've been going back and forth between the small stock tips and some Sony IEMs tips for a few days (i usually use the big stock tips), trying to decide which one sounds better, but i was constantly underwhelmed. I didn't recognize anymore the ethereal sound i used to love and even started hearing some etch in the vocals! I thought the honey moon period was over or something. Already saw myself selling the whole unit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yesterday i said hell why not going back to those big uncomfortable stock tips? They sounded glorious again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And actually they're not so uncomfortable, i just have to insert them gently into my ear canals and then i'm good for a few hours listening 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 edit: forgot to mention that the headband is crap SQwise_

 

Everyone is different but I have found the best seal to be with the smaller set of included stock tips as you can get a nice tight seal. With these and proper placement, the bass has slam and impact that the 404LE and O2 can't touch. I love my SR-001 system and the AudioCats SFC+ mods even more!


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank for the answer. Well, SRM-717 seems to be quite rare!Never saw one for sale actually... but maybe i missed it? I am also following a STAX T1..._

 


 They rarely go up for public sale as they are usually sold to a friend, etc. Just posted a WTB ad and be a little patient as it is worth a bit of a wait.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everyone is different but I have found the best seal to be with the smaller set of included stock tips as you can get a nice tight seal. With these and proper placement, the bass has slam and impact that the 404LE and O2 can't touch. I love my SR-001 system and the AudioCats SFC+ mods even more! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sure i didn't mean that the big stock tips are the way to go for everybody, in my case they seem to fit in very well. On the other hand i'm really not fond of the Sony tips, i know some people use them but i think the stock tips are very well designed and manage to create a nice diffused soundstage.
 I'm surprised by your comments about bass, i felt the O2 was even bassier, almost boomy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Anyway i'm about to buy a LNS, count me in the club now


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everyone is different but I have found the best seal to be with the smaller set of included stock tips as you can get a nice tight seal. With these and proper placement, the bass has slam and impact that the 404LE and O2 can't touch. I love my SR-001 system and the AudioCats SFC+ mods even more! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You need to come listen to my WES with your full-size Stax now...


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everyone is different but I have found the best seal to be with the smaller set of included stock tips as you can get a nice tight seal. With these and proper placement, the bass has slam and impact that the 404LE and O2 can't touch. I love my SR-001 system and the AudioCats SFC+ mods even more! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I need to find someone in europe who can mod my sr-001! Im jealous
 Anyone knows someone willing to do it?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to come listen to my WES with your full-size Stax now..._

 

Yes I do!


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to find someone in europe who can mod my sr-001! Im jealous
 Anyone knows someone willing to do it?_

 

It is well worth the effort. The modded 001 system is a remarkable thing and you can take it anywhere.


----------



## Currawong

I have small ear canals, so anything involving putting things in my ears is an annoyance. I seem to have managed to get a decent seal on a pair of SR-003s I've been kindly lent. I couldn't get it while using the (awful) headband though.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have small ear canals, so anything involving putting things in my ears is an annoyance. I seem to have managed to get a decent seal on a pair of SR-003s I've been kindly lent. I couldn't get it while using the (awful) headband though._

 

You're not the first to notice that for sure. 

 I guess they are light enough to be used as IEM's or big buds? The first time I read that I was like, man those things look way to big to do that with.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need to find someone in europe who can mod my sr-001! Im jealous
 Anyone knows someone willing to do it?_

 

Aren't your JH13 much superior?


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're not the first to notice that for sure. 

 I guess they are light enough to be used as IEM's or big buds? The first time I read that I was like, man those things look way to big to do that with._

 

They are actually very light, to the point I get the feeling that they resonate when music is playing they could do with some damping.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Without any question at all *the SRM-006 will outperform the transformer (SRD-7) running off of your Marantz or most anything else you can squeeze into that budget or beyond. Also, the differences will not be subtle! _

 

Well, without any question at all that's disputable.
 I for one prefer to drive my Staxes by a combo of a SRD 7 Mk2 SB and a SLA battery powered T-2020 based amp over a SRM-006 or any Stax amp I've ever owned or auditioned for that matter, and I'm not the only one.
 You don't need much wattage to drive a Stax via a transformer, less than 10W, and there are some relatively inexpensive low power class D, class A and tube amps out there that do sound way better than your average mass market loudspeaker amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I just got home tonight with a borrowed eXStatA tube hybrid amp that I will compare to my WES over the next few days, so this should be interesting. I'll report back when I can.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, without any question at all that's disputable.
 I for one prefer to drive my Staxes by a combo of a SRD 7 Mk2 SB and a SLA battery powered T-2020 based amp over a SRM-006 or any Stax amp I've ever owned or auditioned for that matter, and I'm not the only one.
 You don't need much wattage to drive a Stax via a transformer, less than 10W, and there are some relatively inexpensive low power class D, class A and tube amps out there that do sound way better than your average mass market loudspeaker amp._

 

:O! That's quite interesting!


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got home tonight with a borrowed eXStatA tube hybrid amp that I will compare to my WES over the next few days, so this should be interesting. I'll report back when I can._

 

I am very much looking forward for this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 thanks Larry!


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cosmopragma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, without any question at all that's disputable.
 I for one prefer to drive my Staxes by a combo of a SRD 7 Mk2 SB and a SLA battery powered T-2020 based amp over a SRM-006 or any Stax amp I've ever owned or auditioned for that matter, and I'm not the only one.
 You don't need much wattage to drive a Stax via a transformer, less than 10W, and there are some relatively inexpensive low power class D, class A and tube amps out there that do sound way better than your average mass market loudspeaker amp._

 

Which STAX cans are you driving? 

 I have heard heavily modded transformers on very good amps and was still not impressed with their ability to drive an O2 to sonic bliss. The sound was exactly what you would expect it to be....that of a great tube amp with an extra transformer stuck in the mix. 

 Everyone is different in their preferences but the sonic signature of coils and output transformers is very audible to me and not something that I find pleasant. 

 I suppose if I were to try it, I would want to start with a very good 300B based design like the Air Tight ATM-300. Then at that point, I would just argue for a WES or BHSE.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Hi again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry if this was laready been asked, but there's a way to change the internal voltage of a STAX 006t amp from 117V to 220V/230V/240V with some internal jumper? or i will have to use an external stepdown ?

 Thank you in advance


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are actually very light, to the point I get the feeling that they resonate when music is playing they could do with some damping._

 

I realized lately that even with the right tips you need the perfect seal to make them sound right. When i insert them too deeply i get the feeling they resonate too, something sounds wrong (the vocals lack texture). I think they only sound good when you feel the "plunger" effect if you see what i mean 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 When i didn't pay attention to that they only sounded good one time out of two or three.

 BTW how do they compare with your LNS?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which STAX cans are you driving? 

 ._

 

My current cans are listed in my public profile.
  Quote:


 Everyone is different in their preferences but the sonic signature of coils and output transformers is very audible to me and not something that I find pleasant. 
 

I happen to like the sonic signature of the transformers, and many listeners do so.I think what many listeners like about tube amps isn't the tubes themselves but the little specific distortion added by the output transformers.Besides of that some Tripath TA-2020 based amps are despite of their modest costs fantastic amps.I could afford almost any amp but I'm currently utilizing a DiyParadise Charlize 2 and I'm happy with it.I do own a decent (> $1000 for parts) DIY direct drive amp as well but I do like the <$400 SRD / SLA battery powered Clarlize2 combo better most of the time.
 You don't like it, and anybody has to try for himself.

 You did mention the O2, and what I personally don't like that much is the *heavy* FR distortion of the O2 no matter which upstream electronics.That's admittedly a totally different kind of distortion but several times the magnitude of the tiny transformer distortion.
 I'm keeping the O2s since they are the resolution king and in combination with suitable music they are great but due to the weird frequency response bad allrounders.All in all (mostly due to more neutral FR and better punch) my favorite Stax is the SR-4070, and that's certainly a minority opinion.

 As you already stated:
  Quote:


 Everyone is different in their preferences


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I realized lately that even with the right tips you need the perfect seal to make them sound right. When i insert them too deeply i get the feeling they resonate too, something sounds wrong (the vocals lack texture). I think they only sound good when you feel the "plunger" effect if you see what i mean 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 When i didn't pay attention to that they only sounded good one time out of two or three.

 BTW how do they compare with your LNS? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They sound like mini-O2s, very much so. Compared to the LNS they are darker with much better (less crazy, more controlled) bass and have the usual IEM compromise where things sound more closed-in. I'll experiment a bit more, but unfortunately the only amp I have here at the moment is the T1S, which, like the 007t is with O2s, rather _too_ warm. I tried inserting them deeply then pulling them out a little and the resonance has gone a bit. They feel a bit more comfortable than regular IEMs I've used.

 If I ignore the form-factor compromises, I could put them on in the morning first thing and forget that I have headphones that are better in many respects and just enjoy the sweet mids and non-fatiguing treble and know that I don't have to pull them out to hear my wife speaking to me. Now if only there was a portable eXStatA.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I hate to say this in the Stax thread, but so far I am enjoying my HE60 more than the O2 Mk1 as an all purpose headphone, now that I have my WES (with Apogee mini-DAC). My HE60 now make a little more bass than my HD800/ZDT, while the HE60 with the GES had less bass than the HD800. I previously had to use a 12-watt amp with SRD-7 Mk2 to get the bass out of the HE60, but giving up some detail and soundstage in return. 

 The HD800/ZDT still remind me a lot of a properly amped HE60, and I think I prefer both over the O2 Mk1 as far as the full musical experience goes. I do think the O2 are very euphonic and musical, and if I hadn't spent time with the HD800 and HE60 I might not know what I was missing. This is not saying the O2 Mk1 are not great sounding, but that there is something missing, and that something is the soundstage. 

 The HE60 soundstage is still very big like the HD800, but no longer are the HE60 too airy and etherial with sound floating around the head - rather they are now better grounded with better presence than before. In contrast, the O2 Mk1 soundstage is simply smaller than I would like and everything is squeezed into a narrower space. The O2 Imaging is still precise and the music is refined and detailed, but the soundstage is now more forward, and while wider than it was with the GES it is still not wide enough. On their own the O2 soundstage is not bad, but when switching over to the HE60 and HD800 the whole performance opens up and it's closer to being there. If only I could put the O2 drivers in my K1000. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I am in the mood for a warmer and more intimate musical experience I still grab the O2 Mk1, and for loud pounding electronic music they are now better than the HE60 and HD800, where the GES would lack the power to let them do that. 

 As far as the Jade are concerned, right now on the WES they have a little more bass than they need, with a slightly wider but less deep soundstage vs the O2 Mk1, and with a little more treble sparkle than the O2 Mk1. The Jade are also good for pounding loud electronic music without getting shrill at high volumes like the HE60 sometimes do, but in some string bass jazz solos the Jade's bass is not as controlled as the HE60 or O2 Mk1. And, they are slightly more forward in the mids than the HE60 or O2 Mk1 with the WES, while the Jade's mids were closer to the mark with the GES or SRD-7 Mk2. I'd almost say the Jade now remind me of what I remember the O2 Mk2 sounding like, which wasn't bad but a bit more forward with a bit more midbass hump.

 I'm hoping to have some impressions posted re the O2 Mk1, HE60 and Jade with the tube hybrid eXStatA up tomorrow or the next day - I have a loaner in wiatrob's prototype case while Sherwood's and my amp cases get drilled and prepped for our boards.


----------



## vcoheda

i've been listening to the HE60 and HD800 all day today. the sound stage of the 800 is about 2x the size of the HE60.


----------



## n3rdling

I never understood what all the hoopla over overly huge, non realistic soundstages was about. Am I the only one who really dislikes this? I mean, sure, when I upgraded from ipod earbuds and plantronics headsets to the ATH-AD500 it was damn cool to hear a massive soundstage for a while. However, as I got more and more exposure to better headphones, giant soundstages really started to become an annoyance. This is probably my biggest qualm with the HD800 in particular; it's a very good dynamic, but if it was able to actually _control_ the soundstage I'd be way more into it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i've been listening to the HE60 and HD800 all day today. the sound stage of the 800 is about 2x the size of the HE60._

 

That was the case with my HE60 on the GES vs HD800/ZDT, but as I said, with the WES the HE60 are even better now. They probably don't actually match the HD800 soundstage, but they are headed in the right direction.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never understood what all the hoopla over overly huge, non realistic soundstages was about. Am I the only one who really dislikes this? I mean, sure, when I upgraded from ipod earbuds and plantronics headsets to the ATH-AD500 it was damn cool to hear a massive soundstage for a while. However, as I got more and more exposure to better headphones, giant soundstages really started to become an annoyance. This is probably my biggest qualm with the HD800 in particular; it's a very good dynamic, but if it was able to actually control the soundstage I'd be way more into it._

 

I don't have any problem with the HD800 soundstage - they are everything I had hoped the K1000 would be.


----------



## vcoheda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was the case with my HE60 on the GES vs HD800/ZDT, but as I said, with the WES the HE60 are even better now. They probably don't actually match the HD800 soundstage, but they are headed in the right direction._

 

yes. i recall that when i compared HE60/KGSS to HE60/HEV90, the biggest difference was the increase in sound stage when using the HEV90. for whatever reason, tube amps have a way of increasing the sound stage of headphones. that has been my experience more than a handful of times. so i understand what you are saying.

 as for the sound stage of the HD800, it is the largest i have known. single ended or with the wrong amp, i could see the sound being somewhat diffuse, but balanced (or with the right amp) everything locks into place.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sound like mini-O2s, very much so. Compared to the LNS they are darker with much better (less crazy, more controlled) bass and have the usual IEM compromise where things sound more closed-in. I'll experiment a bit more, but unfortunately the only amp I have here at the moment is the T1S, which, like the 007t is with O2s, rather too warm. I tried inserting them deeply then pulling them out a little and the resonance has gone a bit. They feel a bit more comfortable than regular IEMs I've used._

 

Thanks for the feedback 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I thought the LNS bass would be at least as controlled, maybe a solid state amp would control it better as well?
 But i agree the bass is more controlled than what i expected with the SR-003, they do a great job with hip-hop.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I ignore the form-factor compromises, I could put them on in the morning first thing and forget that *I have headphones that are better in many respects* and just enjoy the sweet mids and non-fatiguing treble and know that I don't have to pull them out to hear my wife speaking to me. Now if only there was a portable eXStatA. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

And the LNS is one of the headphones?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never understood what all the hoopla over overly huge, non realistic soundstages was about. Am I the only one who really dislikes this? I mean, sure, when I upgraded from ipod earbuds and plantronics headsets to the ATH-AD500 it was damn cool to hear a massive soundstage for a while. However, as I got more and more exposure to better headphones, giant soundstages really started to become an annoyance. This is probably my biggest qualm with the HD800 in particular; it's a very good dynamic, but if it was able to actually control the soundstage I'd be way more into it._

 

I'm with you on this one. Overblown soundstages in headphones tend to go hand-in-hand with very diffuse and inaccurate imaging (though not always, i.e. H2). I value imaging accuracy over soundstage size, and when you have truly accurate imaging you will have a soundstage that reflects what's there on the recording - ballooning outwards when you have a minimally mic'd recording with massive inherent soundstage, and contracting and becoming more intimate when you play something that's close-mic'd and is recorded to just be there in the room without too much spatial showing off.

 Diffuse soundstages can be nice on electronica where there is no standard for correct presentation, but on material that is very spatially complex the blurry imaging can detract from the presentation.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They sound like mini-O2s, very much so._

 

This. The similarity is surprising, especially when it comes to tone and midrange presentation. I think the SR-003 has some of the best mids around, and if you like it chances are you will like the O2 quite a bit as well. It's a stunningly capable headphone for the price, and it scales fairly well too.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yes. i recall that when i compared HE60/KGSS to HE60/HEV90, the biggest difference was the increase in sound stage when using the HEV90. for whatever reason, tube amps have a way of increasing the sound stage of headphones. that has been my experience more than a handful of times. so i understand what you are saying.

 as for the sound stage of the HD800, it is the largest i have known. single ended or with the wrong amp, i could see the sound being somewhat diffuse, but balanced (or with the right amp) everything locks into place._

 

I should listen to the hd800's on your rig because when I had mine I thought of the soundstage to be utterly artificial (among other things..).

 For me the 007's with the GES (the EAT Mullard's contributed a lot) have the most precise soundstage I have heard in a headphone, I cannot even think what would be with a WES. I also LOVE the airy intimacy that the 4070's give me. This is possibly because I hate large concerts and dont listen to any form of mass performance Rock, most of my music is made for small/medium size acoustically treated performance venues, chamber hall's, concert theaters, etc.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should listen to the hd800's on your rig because when I had mine I thought of the soundstage to be utterly artificial (among other things..).

 For me the 007's with the GES (the EAT Mullard's contributed a lot) have the most precise soundstage I have heard in a headphone, I cannot even think what would be with a WES. I also LOVE the airy intimacy that the 4070's give me. This is possibly because I hate large concerts and dont listen to any form of mass performance Rock, most of my music is made for small/medium size acoustically treated performance venues, chamber hall's, concert theaters, etc._

 

The O2 on a GES with good tubes has a similar timbre and tone to the O2 on the WES. But the GES vs WES differences are mainly in the improved separation and size/width of soundstage, and the additional power. The WES makes my old maxed GES sound forward and narrow, and the WES max volume is more limited by comfort than by clipping. 

 Sure, the imaging was precise and intimate with my old GES, but the WES with any of my stats better reflects the the venue of the performance to me. Like I said, the O2 soundstage isn't bad until I compare it with the HE60, which opens up the venue even more. Previously the HE60 had a soundstage that was too big and ill defined, with little solid foundation and presence, but once I got the WES everything seemed to come together better.

 I also can't believe how much better the O2 bass output is without clipping, bringing the O2 Mk1 to similar levels of bass punch and impact as many dynamic headphone. To me it seems like 50-100% more power, although I believe it is actually only 33% more based on what I have read. It seems to me (depending on the music I choose) that I can get an additional 3-5 dB volume before clipping out of the WES and O2 Mk1 than I could with the GES, and that is significant. The GES did not feel underpowered with my other stats, but it could easily run out of juice with demanding music on the O2 Mk1 or Mk2.

 Because the timbre and tone are similar between the two amps, I still need to use a brighter DAC for the O2 than for the HE60 or Jade (using GE "wurltzer" 12AX7 in GES, but not sure what is in the demo WES that I bought but the set costs $700 - s-something treasures EL34 + others). So, I can use the PS Audio DLIII in 192K up-sampling with the O2 which sounds a little brighter and more open, and then switch it to 96K up-sampling for the other phones. This way I can use the Apogee mini-DAC for the eXStatA amp, which pairs better together than the PS Audio. I do want to get the Cullen mods for the PS Audio some day, and then I can try switching around sources again for best synergy.

 PS: I've had a few PM with questions (about GES, WES and eXStatA) and want to clarify a couple of things. The GES is a great amp, and it pairs well with many kinds of Lambdas, SR-003, SR-5 gold, SR-80, Gamma Pro, ESP-950, Jade, HE60 and more - except for the O2 Mk1 or Mk2 where it could use more power to achieve live music volumes (not sure about HE90). The WES has that extra power and opens up the soundstage a bit more as a balanced amp vs the SE GES. But that isn't to say the GES soundstage is too small, just the balanced eXStatA soundstage was larger. I don't have a GES to compare to anymore, since I sold it after RMAF to buy the WES, so it's hard for me to answer more questions about the comparison except what I heard at RMAF, where the GES timbre and tone was superior and closer to the WES that was there, while the WES and eXStatA soundstage and power was better. The extra power doesn't seem to be required with my other stats except for the O2.


----------



## gilency

I expend quite a bit of time with the balanced HD800's HeadRoom had at CanJam. I was not impressed by them, but when I listened top the SR-007 (not sure which one it was) I knew I had found the sound I craved.
 By the way, f "tube amps have a way of increasing the sound stage of headphones", isn't that an added coloration that gets?
 And how can equalizing be different that choosing equipment (bright or dark etc) for certain headphones?
 Sorry to digress; I guess I have a strong preference for stats. The one phone I am curious about though is the HE-5.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The similarity is surprising, especially when it comes to tone and midrange presentation. I think the SR-003 has some of the best mids around, and if you like it chances are you will like the O2 quite a bit as well. It's a stunningly capable headphone for the price, and it scales fairly well too._

 

I had the chance to use a pair of O2 MKI with a 717 and 007t on extended loan for a while, but, despite their amazing detail, they are too dark for me and I found myself listening with the LNS more often. I'm going to borrow a pair again once I've built the eXStatA and see how I feel about them then. I really would like to be happy with a pair, but a Blue Hawaii SE or WES is just out of the question unfortunately.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I'm going to borrow a pair again once I've built the eXStatA and see how I feel about them then. I really would like to be happy with a pair, but a Blue Hawaii SE or WES is just out of the question unfortunately._

 

I think you'll be impressed, I was. Not many folk have heard the combination with the Beta version of the amp (has anyone actually? I know someone who will be listening to that combo tonight, I'm sure they'll chime in.) 

 It would be a hoot if the eXStata drove demand for OIIs instead of Lambda Normals!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had the chance to use a pair of O2 MKI with a 717 and 007t on extended loan for a while, but, despite their amazing detail, they are too dark for me and I found myself listening with the LNS more often. I'm going to borrow a pair again once I've built the eXStatA and see how I feel about them then. I really would like to be happy with a pair, but a Blue Hawaii SE or WES is just out of the question unfortunately._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you'll be impressed, I was. Not many folk have heard the combination with the Beta version of the amp (has anyone actually? I know someone who will be listening to that combo tonight, I'm sure they'll chime in.) 

 It would be a hoot if the eXStata drove demand for OIIs instead of Lambda Normals!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just posted my thoughts in the eXStatA thread, and things are going to get very interesting now with this new amp out there.* The O2 Mk1 are not dark at all with the latest beta tube version of the eXStatA* - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6271614-post1830.html


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just posted my thoughts in the eXStatA thread, and things are going to get very interesting now with this new amp out there.* The O2 Mk1 are not dark at all with the latest beta tube version of the eXStatA* - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6271614-post1830.html_

 

Hmm, All *BOLDFACE*? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I'm curious about the Sand version and said 'phones. After my (your old
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) 950s get here, we should have a CO Mini-stat-only meet. I'll organize, I think it's my turn...


----------



## minivan

i had been listening to the o2 with the beta exstata since i finish building it. i can't hear any darkness at all. but i have not heard any other electrostatic amp, so i was wondering all these time what's this darkness people talking about on the o2. it's good to hear confirmation from others that there's none on the exstata.


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had the chance to use a pair of O2 MKI with a 717 and 007t on extended loan for a while, but, despite their amazing detail, they are too dark for me and I found myself listening with the LNS more often. I'm going to borrow a pair again once I've built the eXStatA and see how I feel about them then. I really would like to be happy with a pair, but a Blue Hawaii SE or WES is just out of the question unfortunately._

 

The 717 is a bit polite, so if that's your amp for the O2 then you need a more forward source, otherwise you can end up with sound that's dark, dull, laid-back, etc. It has the power to drive the O2 fairly well but it's not voiced in the best way for it IMO. The 007t is too weak. I'm actually preferring the O2 out of an SRD-7 Pro and a tube integrated; sure you don't get the same level of resolution and bass control as the 717 but the sound is definitely more vivid and dynamic, and a bit brighter too.

 I'm guessing a slightly brightish source with a tube output stage would be great with the O2/717.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just posted my thoughts in the eXStatA thread, and things are going to get very interesting now with this new amp out there.* The O2 Mk1 are not dark at all with the latest beta tube version of the eXStatA* - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6271614-post1830.html_

 

A tube version? I need to look into this. I've stayed away from this thing so far on the thought that it was all solid state.


----------



## Currawong

The first time I tried the O2s it was on Lobstersan's rig with the Benchmark DAC1, which had a nice balance. I'd rather get a better amp for them though than use a deliberately bright source. 

 As for the eXStatA, I think most people want the tube version, so if you want in on the boards, you'll have to go with the SS version for now (please do!). 

 HeadphoneAddict: Reports of the eXStatA performing well with the O2s is one of the primary reasons I want to build one. If it's making you proverbially blow your load over the phone to people about how good it is, then it looks like I'll be well pleased with one.


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *catscratch* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A tube version? I need to look into this. I've stayed away from this thing so far on the thought that it was all solid state._

 

Tube-Hybrid specifically. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6261767-post1795.html

 This box is the one HA's listening to now...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiatrob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, All *BOLDFACE*? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I'm curious about the Sand version and said 'phones. After my (your old
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) 950s get here, we should have a CO Mini-stat-only meet. I'll organize, I think it's my turn..._

 

Well, it's always easier if I host it because with my disability I am not hauling the WES anywhere except for a big meet or RMAF.


----------



## GuyDebord

Do you guys know where I can order the replacement LEATHER earpads of the 404LE? or if this is even possible?


----------



## padam

Yes it is possible, last time I checked via KuboTEN it was 85$.


----------



## bralk

to all you Stax experts and fans. 

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## wiktor

Hi Miquel,

 try here: joynetcafe@hotmail.com 



 Happy new year 2010!

 Regards, 
 Wiktor


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys know where I can order the replacement LEATHER earpads of the 404LE? or if this is even possible?_


----------



## spritzer

The 404LE pads are roughly 6KYen in Japan and easily available.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes it is possible, last time I checked via KuboTEN it was 85$._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wiktor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Miquel,

 try here: joynetcafe@hotmail.com 



 Happy new year 2010!

 Regards, 
 Wiktor_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404LE pads are roughly 6KYen in Japan and easily available._

 

Thank you! and happy new year to ALL


----------



## spritzer

Happy 50th anniversary of Stax earspeakers (SR-1 was released in 1960).


----------



## Anders

Is there still some consensus that the LE pads tames the treble over-emphasis on the SR-404? I looked at some pictures and they look very similar to standard pads.


----------



## padam

They definitely feel different but most of the sonic differences are associated with some tweaking done the drivers rather than the cable and the pads. About the LE pads, there was a short impression using SR-202 earlier in this thread btw.


----------



## kds5000

Hello everyone!

 I'm new to the Stax world, so thought I'd just post some pics of my new rig.











[size=medium]Happy New Year dudes (and dudettes)![/size]


----------



## jigster

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello everyone!

 I'm new to the Stax world, so thought I'd just post some pics of my new rig.
[size=medium]Happy New Year dudes (and dudettes)![/size]_

 

Its really a very gorgeous pair.
 Got to listen to it briefly today.
 Yum yum.....


----------



## kh6idf

kds5000: Very nice!

 Anders: I'm the one who posted earlier about putting the 404LE leather pads on my SR202. One difference as compared to the original vinyl pads is the leather pads are thinner. I can feel the edge of one ear touching the inside protective mesh and with the vinyl pads there was more clearance. The freedom from ear-sweat is definitely worth it though. As for the sound, I did notice a change. A slight decrease in the 3D 'soundstage' but after a few days I was used to it. The overall frequency response did not seem to be affected except for some improvement in the bass.

 I got my 404LE pads from Joynetcafe, very fast shipping.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello everyone!

 I'm new to the Stax world, so thought I'd just post some pics of my new rig.

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/w...-01Jan2010.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/w...-01Jan2010.jpg

[size=medium]Happy New Year dudes (and dudettes)![/size]_

 

Very nice rig. Welcome aboard! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 How do you like the SR-404 Limited and SRM-600 Limited combo?


----------



## kds5000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very nice rig. Welcome aboard! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 How do you like the SR-404 Limited and SRM-600 Limited combo?_

 

Thanks!

 Have very limited experience with Stax, so take my impressions with a large dose of salt. Here's my impressions for what it's worth:-

 I'd heard the O2 and HE60 through the Blue Hawaii at our local meet and wasn't blown away by it. Both had the clarity and detail, but not the lower and mid bass I wanted (especially for 80's rock music). 

 Ironically, it was my friend's humble rig - SR-404 Ltd/T1 combo that got my attention. Had the mid-bass weight and very forward vocals that I was looking for. Decided then and there that I wanted the SR-404 Ltd. Went to my local distributor and, as luck would have it, he had 1 SRM-600 Ltd and was prepared to give me a good price for both on the last day of 2009... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Brought my SRM-600 Ltd to my friend's place for a quick comparison with the T1 yesterday. Cans used were the Omega, SR-4070 and SR-404 Ltd. Through the SRM-600 Ltd, the SR-404 Ltd was the most forward and had the weightiest mid-bass. The Omega's mids were more recessed in comparison, but the clarity and low bass punch was breathtaking. All 4 of us liked the 4070 the least - we all said that it sounded like a dynamic can...

 As for the SR-404 Ltd paired with the T1 and SRM-600 Ltd, the general view was that the SRM-600 Ltd gave a punchier bass and had better overall control over the SR-404 Ltd than the T1. Difference wasn't so great to me, but my friend who owns the T1 said that it's pretty significant.

 I really like the SR-404 Ltd signature, so the SRM-600 Ltd seemed like the logical pairing. Even though they are fresh out of the box, I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax...


----------



## Philimon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_kds5000: Very nice!

 Anders: I'm the one who posted earlier about putting the 404LE leather pads on my SR202. One difference as compared to the original vinyl pads is the leather pads are thinner. I can feel the edge of one ear touching the inside protective mesh and with the vinyl pads there was more clearance. The freedom from ear-sweat is definitely worth it though. As for the sound, I did notice a change. A slight decrease in the 3D 'soundstage' but after a few days I was used to it. The overall frequency response did not seem to be affected except for some improvement in the bass.

 I got my 404LE pads from Joynetcafe, very fast shipping._

 

I do not know which is worse, my ears touching the inside protective mesh, or my ears getting sweaty...

 What adhesive do I use for the ear pads? The pads on my Nova Basic are not sticking very well. They sit fine on the earspeakers and while listening, but they are not perfectly sealed together. I would like to to get a better seal, because I am afraid it might hinder the sound. Also, I would like to touch them up for aesthetic reasons...

 By the way - my new Lamdas are stupendous. I was not expecting to be wowed, but the instrument separation in complex passages is just amazing.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello everyone!

 I'm new to the Stax world, so thought I'd just post some pics of my new rig.
 [/SIZE][/COLOR]_

 

Congrats and welcome to the club! that combo looks nice


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congrats!

 The ones I would keep from your list are: Sennheiser HD600 with APS V3; Grado HF2 or Grado PS-1, Audio Technica ATH-ESW10JPN, and Stax SR-404 Limited. 

 Note off-topic: Grados respond well to a re-cable. I've heard the PS-1 with a Silver Dragon Cable, the Grado RS1 with the APS v3 cable, the HP-1000 with an SAA Equinox, and the HF-1 with APS v3 and a Jenna Labs cable - they all improved over the stock cable. I'm planning to re-cable my HF-2 with an 8 foot 4-pin APS V3 in the upcoming months, and sold the RS-1 recently.

 Note on-topic: The SR-404 LE sound fantastic with an eXStatA DIY amp, which sounds better than any Stax brand amp I have heard except for a modified SRM-717 with new internal wire, jacks and switches which sounds close (and 3x the cost). I hate to admit this, but the SR-404LE (and O2) sounded better on the modded 717 than my $2500 maxed Woo GES (which was darker sounding with them when using the Apogee mini-DAC), so I look forward to borrowing them back to try them on it. I seem to recall the SR-404LE were not as dark at RMAF when I was using the GES with the brighter PS Audio DAC.


----------



## kh6idf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Philimon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not know which is worse, my ears touching the inside protective mesh, or my ears getting sweaty...

 What adhesive do I use for the ear pads? The pads on my Nova Basic are not sticking very well._

 

My ear touching the protective mesh is not irritating, I can feel it but it is also easy to just ignore. Being able to wear the phones for as long as I want without taking them off is a big deal and outweighs the ear/mesh contact.

 Maybe you can get some of the foam tape Stax uses if you contact their US distributor (yamasinc.com). That stuff is incredibly tenacious.


----------



## cat6man

i have a srm-t1s driver for my stax and have recently found that the 2 channels are seriously imbalanced (they were fine up to a few weeks ago).

 any suggestions on where i should look first (tubes would be my guess)?
 any link to photos/diagrams/schematics of the unit?

 thanks

 edit: yes, i know about high voltages, etc and can handle most simple repairs my myself.


----------



## n3rdling

Check to make sure the volume pot is set correctly. There are actually two parts to that volume knob if you look closely.


----------



## spritzer

With the top of the amp removed, check to see if all the led's on the circuit board are lit and try swapping the tubes. Channel imbalance is far more likely in the phones though...


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check to make sure the volume pot is set correctly. There are actually two parts to that volume knob if you look closely._

 

good idea............i've had to seriously misalign the 2 sections to get balance.....perhaps the connection to the knobs are loose


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the top of the amp removed, check to see if all the led's on the circuit board are lit and try swapping the tubes. Channel imbalance is far more likely in the phones though..._

 

swapping tubes is a good easy test (and i've got an old tube tester if needed)..........what do the led's represent in the circuit?

 if the problem is in the phones, i assume this means a trip to the stax repair shop? and if so, who does stax repair in the US?

 thanks (and update on what i find later today)


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!

 Have very limited experience with Stax, so take my impressions with a large dose of salt. Here's my impressions for what it's worth:-

 I'd heard the O2 and HE60 through the Blue Hawaii at our local meet and wasn't blown away by it. Both had the clarity and detail, but not the lower and mid bass I wanted (especially for 80's rock music). 

 Ironically, it was my friend's humble rig - SR-404 Ltd/T1 combo that got my attention. Had the mid-bass weight and very forward vocals that I was looking for. Decided then and there that I wanted the SR-404 Ltd. Went to my local distributor and, as luck would have it, he had 1 SRM-600 Ltd and was prepared to give me a good price for both on the last day of 2009... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Brought my SRM-600 Ltd to my friend's place for a quick comparison with the T1 yesterday. Cans used were the Omega, SR-4070 and SR-404 Ltd. Through the SRM-600 Ltd, the SR-404 Ltd was the most forward and had the weightiest mid-bass. The Omega's mids were more recessed in comparison, but the clarity and low bass punch was breathtaking. All 4 of us liked the 4070 the least - we all said that it sounded like a dynamic can...

 As for the SR-404 Ltd paired with the T1 and SRM-600 Ltd, the general view was that the SRM-600 Ltd gave a punchier bass and had better overall control over the SR-404 Ltd than the T1. Difference wasn't so great to me, but my friend who owns the T1 said that it's pretty significant.

 I really like the SR-404 Ltd signature, so the SRM-600 Ltd seemed like the logical pairing. Even though they are fresh out of the box, I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the impressions and the pictures of your rig!


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_<snip>
 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great first impressions. Thanks!
 Really pleased to hear that you enjoy the combo, and that you have heard a handful (or more) other electrostatic headphones to compare it with.

 Enjoy!


----------



## cat6man

checked a number of things but left ear is still louder than right ear

 1. swapped R/L inputs (XLR input from wadia dac)
 2. swapped rca inputs (from analog source)
 3. swapped tubes between channels
 4. swapped out headphone extension cord
 5. see 3 led's lit (2 mid-board behind rear tube, 1 at front.....are there others?)
 6. attenuator knob seems solidly connected, individually limit CW/CCW at same points
 7. bias measured at 393V at B pin1
 8. switched from pro bias to normal bias jack


 so, any other suggestions? is there an internal differential voltage that needs to be tweaked to balance the channels?

 as a last test (that i can think of), i'm going to try the phones with an old srd7 driver box that has been sitting in my basement for the last 10-15 years.....guess i have to find an amp to drive it though, so i'll hook up my patio portable (see sig) 

 if i have to send it out for repairs, i've found a link to 

STAX Authorized Service Center

 any feedback on Yama's? are there other options?

 thanks


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really like the SR-404 Ltd signature, so the SRM-600 Ltd seemed like the logical pairing. Even though they are fresh out of the box, I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats!

 The SR-404 LE sound fantastic with an eXStatA DIY amp, which sounds better than any Stax brand amp I have heard except for a modified SRM-717 with new internal wire, jacks and switches which sounds close (and 3x the cost)._

 

Well, I'm excited to read this because I just got my shipping notice saying my SR-404 LE's will arrive on Thursday, which means I'll finally get to listen to my new eXStatA hybrid amp. I can't wait. As soon as I have enough listening time on them, I'll be posting some impressions...

 Being new to stats, do they need burn in time like dynamic cans, or will they sound accurate right out of the box?


----------



## Bullseye

They won't need burn in. The drivers will charge up almost immediately. You might need some time to get used to the sound. They are very comfortable (speaking about sr-202, but as they share design).


----------



## kds5000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats!

 The ones I would keep from your list are: Sennheiser HD600 with APS V3; Grado HF2 or Grado PS-1, Audio Technica ATH-ESW10JPN, and Stax SR-404 Limited. 

 Note off-topic: Grados respond well to a re-cable. I've heard the PS-1 with a Silver Dragon Cable, the Grado RS1 with the APS v3 cable, the HP-1000 with an SAA Equinox, and the HF-1 with APS v3 and a Jenna Labs cable - they all improved over the stock cable. I'm planning to re-cable my HF-2 with an 8 foot 4-pin APS V3 in the upcoming months, and sold the RS-1 recently.

 Note on-topic: The SR-404 LE sound fantastic with an eXStatA DIY amp, which sounds better than any Stax brand amp I have heard except for a modified SRM-717 with new internal wire, jacks and switches which sounds close (and 3x the cost). I hate to admit this, but the SR-404LE (and O2) sounded better on the modded 717 than my $2500 maxed Woo GES (which was darker sounding with them when using the Apogee mini-DAC), so I look forward to borrowing them back to try them on it. I seem to recall the SR-404LE were not as dark at RMAF when I was using the GES with the brighter PS Audio DAC._

 

Thanks for your suggestions Larry.

 The dynamic cans which I intend to keep (at this point) are:-
 1. SR80 (the can that got me started on this crazy hobby, and not worth selling anyway)
 2. RS1 (nice serial number)
 3. HF2 (birthday present from wife)
 4. PS1 (to my ears, the ultimate Grado)
 5. ATH-ESW10JPN (my portable can) 

 As for recabling the Grados, I've got this thing about modifying limited edition pieces like the HF2 and PS1 (especially). Maybe I'll send my RS1 to APS for a recable one day, but it won't be anytime soon.

 I'm not familiar with the eXStatA DIY amp - is there a thread here where can I get more information on it?

 I've a friend with a modded Blue Hawaii - hope to do a comparison between it and my SRM-600 Ltd through the SR-404 Ltd one day. The Blue Hawaii was there when we did the brief comparison with the T1. Unfortunately, it developed a problem before I arrived and I didn't get a chance to compare it with the SRM-600 Ltd.

 Thanks again!


----------



## cat6man

and spritzer wins the prize!

 tried the headphones on a srd7 and the same problem was observed (low volume in right ear)...........so, i guess it is either a wiring break somewhere or the stat itself has failed.

 since i'm going to be sending these in (somewhere) for repair, is there anything else
 that could/should be done at the same time while they are in the shop?


----------



## cat6man

and spritzer wins the prize!

 tried the headphones on a srd7 and the same problem was observed (low volume in right ear)...........so, i guess it is either a wiring break somewhere or the stat itself has failed.

 since i'm going to be sending these in (somewhere) for repair, is there anything else
 that could/should be done at the same time while they are in the shop?


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not familiar with the eXStatA DIY amp - is there a thread here where can I get more information on it?_

 

Here's the website - Cavalli Audio

 Here's the DIY thread - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/exs...diyers-447950/


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and spritzer wins the prize!

 tried the headphones on a srd7 and the same problem was observed (low volume in right ear)...........so, i guess it is either a wiring break somewhere or the stat itself has failed.

 since i'm going to be sending these in (somewhere) for repair, is there anything else
 that could/should be done at the same time while they are in the shop?_

 

This is a relatively common ailment of electrostatics and is caused by a parasitic charge sitting on the diaphragm and impeding its movements. Most phones can be fixed by simply leaving them plugged in and periodically unplugging them and discharging the phones by touching all the pins and then plugging them back in. 

 If this doesn't work then the drivers would have to be replaced with current made units (Stax never stocks old units).


----------



## mobbaddict

My apartment has been burgled this week-end, i was so afraid that they broke my "brand new" LNS that i left on my bed, i had only listened to it for 2 minutes before leaving for the week-end. Fortunately they didn't touch the Stax, those burglars don't have taste 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 It sounds great by the way.


----------



## mikeymad

Bummer about the break-in... glad the STAX are alive...


----------



## cat6man

is the "lambda pro" the same as the "lambda pro classic"?


----------



## spritzer

No, the Pro Classic is the same as Lambda Spirit in Japan i.e. the precursor to the Nova Basic and SR-202.


----------



## padam

Nope, Lambda Pro Classic is the equivalent of Lambda Spirit afaik, the Lambda Pro was the first Stax with Pro bias.


----------



## cat6man

can you help me out on where in the spectrum of stax models the 'lambda pro classic' falls? 

 i have to make a decision about repair vs. replacement vs. $$ 

 edit for elaboration:
 i guess what i really want to know is what unit(s) would be comparable and what units would be a step (or 2) upwards?

 thanks

 (i was sure my 1st canjam in NJ wouldn't result in $$ expenditures.........damn you head-fi 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## padam

I think the SR-202 should be more or less similar as it is the current model of the Basic line and it should work well with the T1S. Some actually rate it higher then the SR-303 and SR-404 because it doesn't have an upper midrange peak.


----------



## mobbaddict

I've listened to the LNS for a few hours... its soundstage reminds me a lot of the AD900 that i had a few months ago... very large and diffused (i can see why you like yours Philimon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ), but more controlled. The AD900 came to my mind when i tried to reduce the slight brightness and sibilance of the LNS by placing the pads more on the back of my head and lower also, exactly like i was doing with the AD900. It's a good way to get a good tonal balance, any trace of harshness seems gone. It could be more focused though. I may well agree with catscratch's thoughts about the Lambdas' soundstage...

 Otherwise it's pretty much what i expected, it has a very even tonal balance and a relaxed presentation... bass extension is impressive, it can handle any type of music contrary to the SR-003 which sounds best with acoustic and vocals.


----------



## kds5000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TimJo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's the website - Cavalli Audio

 Here's the DIY thread - http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/exs...diyers-447950/_

 

Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll go read up more about it....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!

 Have very limited experience with Stax, so take my impressions with a large dose of salt. Here's my impressions for what it's worth:-

 I'd heard the O2 and HE60 through the Blue Hawaii at our local meet and wasn't blown away by it. Both had the clarity and detail, but not the lower and mid bass I wanted (especially for 80's rock music). 

 Ironically, it was my friend's humble rig - SR-404 Ltd/T1 combo that got my attention. Had the mid-bass weight and very forward vocals that I was looking for. Decided then and there that I wanted the SR-404 Ltd. Went to my local distributor and, as luck would have it, he had 1 SRM-600 Ltd and was prepared to give me a good price for both on the last day of 2009... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Brought my SRM-600 Ltd to my friend's place for a quick comparison with the T1 yesterday. Cans used were the Omega, SR-4070 and SR-404 Ltd. Through the SRM-600 Ltd, the SR-404 Ltd was the most forward and had the weightiest mid-bass. The Omega's mids were more recessed in comparison, but the clarity and low bass punch was breathtaking. All 4 of us liked the 4070 the least - we all said that it sounded like a dynamic can...

 As for the SR-404 Ltd paired with the T1 and SRM-600 Ltd, the general view was that the SRM-600 Ltd gave a punchier bass and had better overall control over the SR-404 Ltd than the T1. Difference wasn't so great to me, but my friend who owns the T1 said that it's pretty significant.

 I really like the SR-404 Ltd signature, so the SRM-600 Ltd seemed like the logical pairing. Even though they are fresh out of the box, I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Re: the forward quality of the Lambda 404 Ltd., I have removed the back foam from a Lambda 404 and Signature and find the tonal balance much improved. The midrange honkiness just about disappears. It's not hard to do, remove the pads, unscrew the plate that holds the drivers (4 screws) lift the palte and yank out the foam. If you don't like it put the foam back. 

 I got onto this because when I replaced the old deteriorated foam of the Lambda Signature, the sound seemed just horrendous, way too much treble and midrange harshness, light and airy without the foam. The 404 was not as bad sounding with the foam, but still less midrange honk and more airiness without the foam.

 You will probably want to listen to your set unmodified for some time in order to set a baseline.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and spritzer wins the prize!

 tried the headphones on a srd7 and the same problem was observed (low volume in right ear)...........so, i guess it is either a wiring break somewhere or the stat itself has failed.

 since i'm going to be sending these in (somewhere) for repair, is there anything else
 that could/should be done at the same time while they are in the shop?_

 

My experience is that the Stax drivers are pretty tough and don't go bad unless they have been physically abused or over driven, most likely by a transformer. So I am thinking you have a cable problem or the parasitic charge mentioned by Spritzer.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can you help me out on where in the spectrum of stax models the 'lambda pro classic' falls? 

 i have to make a decision about repair vs. replacement vs. $$_

 

The Pro classic is a basic model just like the SR-202 but don't think that makes them somehow "bad". I for one vastly prefer the SR-202 to the 303 and 404 so 202 replacement drivers wouldn't be a bad idea. I doubt it will come to that though as most drivers recover even though it can take days or even weeks.


----------



## kds5000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: the forward quality of the Lambda 404 Ltd., I have removed the back foam from a Lambda 404 and Signature and find the tonal balance much improved. The midrange honkiness just about disappears. It's not hard to do, remove the pads, unscrew the plate that holds the drivers (4 screws) lift the palte and yank out the foam. If you don't like it put the foam back. 

 I got onto this because when I replaced the old deteriorated foam of the Lambda Signature, the sound seemed just horrendous, way too much treble and midrange harshness, light and airy without the foam. The 404 was not as bad sounding with the foam, but still less midrange honk and more airiness without the foam.

 You will probably want to listen to your set unmodified for some time in order to set a baseline._

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into it after I've owned this set for a while. Just enjoying my collection of music now. 

 What amazes me is that my Stax rig has made me ejoy classical music again after a 15 year hiatus. Stopped enjoying classical after my dad dismantled his hi-fi rig consisting of some German 7-foot electrostatic speakers. Didn't even return to the genre when I had the HD800. 

 This to me is the closest I can get to the sound of hi-fi speakers. About the only dynamic can with a similar sound sig is the AKG K1000 through my Mapletree HD250SE. In fact, I was hunting for a K1000 until the opportunity to own my Stax rig presented itself. Funny how some things turn out...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am, for now, a happy chappie...


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Pro classic is a basic model just like the SR-202 but don't think that makes them somehow "bad". I for one vastly prefer the SR-202 to the 303 and 404 so 202 replacement drivers wouldn't be a bad idea. I doubt it will come to that though as most drivers recover even though it can take days or even weeks._

 

i tried shorting out the pins for a while but no dice.............my guess is wiring as the more likely cause........i'll see how things look tomorrow.

 i would guess the weak side is at least 10db down

 anyone have experience with the official stax repair facility in california?
 are there any alternatives?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 My experience is that the Stax drivers are pretty tough and don't go bad unless they have been physically abused or over driven, most likely by a transformer. So I am thinking you have a cable problem or the parasitic charge mentioned by Spritzer._

 

I don't know about STAX panels, but Martin Logan panels get decreased level issues just like this. The fix is to pull the drivers out and put them in the shower for a serious rinse down, then let dry. The problem is accumulated dust it seems. I don't know if the dust does the charge thing mentioned or screws up the capacitance or what, but it's a common problem and fix.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i tried shorting out the pins for a while but no dice.............my guess is wiring as the more likely cause........i'll see how things look tomorrow.

 i would guess the weak side is at least 10db down

 anyone have experience with the official stax repair facility in california?
 are there any alternatives?_

 

The cable is a possibility but then you would have a variable sound level if the bias line is broken as as the voltage drops and then the cable makes a connection which would return to full volume as soon as a connection is made. If either the + or - is broken then you get full volume but with a lot of distortion. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know about STAX panels, but Martin Logan panels get decreased level issues just like this. The fix is to pull the drivers out and put them in the shower for a serious rinse down, then let dry. The problem is accumulated dust it seems. I don't know if the dust does the charge thing mentioned or screws up the capacitance or what, but it's a common problem and fix._

 

This is a bad idea on so many levels that it isn't even funny but the ML panels don't have any means to protect against dust so external covers are needed. Most users aren't aware of this the the panels die prematurely. This would be a guaranteed way to destroy the Stax drivers though as they all feature dust covers and the copper stators plus the coating material on the diaphragm wouldn't like this one bit.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_


 This is a bad idea on so many levels that it isn't even funny but the ML panels don't have any means to protect against dust so external covers are needed. Most users aren't aware of this the the panels die prematurely. This would be a guaranteed way to destroy the Stax drivers though as they all feature dust covers and the copper stators plus the coating material on the diaphragm wouldn't like this one bit._

 

Heh, I wasn't real clear apparently! I wasn't suggesting taking a shower with your STAX on. I was suggesting that dust can cause issues with them, that's all. 

 ANYBODY THAT THINKS I SUGGESTED JUMPING IN THE SHOWER WITH YOUR STAX ON, STOP IMMEDIALTELY!! ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE STILL TURNED ON!


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable is a possibility but then you would have a variable sound level if the bias line is broken as as the voltage drops and then the cable makes a connection which would return to full volume as soon as a connection is made. If either the + or - is broken then you get full volume but with a lot of distortion. _

 

thanks.
 i'm going to call stax service tomorrow and see what they recommend and get some repair estimates/ranges................depending on what i hear, i may
 bite the bullet and consider ordering a 404LimitedEdition..........the 404LE seems pretty highly regarded and sound like they could be a good match for my T1S headphone amp (didn't make the cut in time for beta1 round of diy stat amp by alex, which i'd love to build one of these days)


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I wasn't real clear apparently! I wasn't suggesting taking a shower with your STAX on. I was suggesting that dust can cause issues with them, that's all._

 

I know what you meant but dust issues present as squealing sounds and/or the diaphragm sticking to the stators (a rather unnerving trait of the HE90). It can even get so bad that the diaphragm starts to oscillate violently causing the phones to move.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I wasn't real clear apparently! I wasn't suggesting taking a shower with your STAX on. I was suggesting that dust can cause issues with them, that's all. 

 ANYBODY THAT THINKS I SUGGESTED JUMPING IN THE SHOWER WITH YOUR STAX ON, STOP IMMEDIALTELY!! ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE STILL TURNED ON!_

 

and no pictures please!


----------



## DummyHead

I am new to the forum. I have had a pair of Lambda normal bias and an SRM-7sb since the early 1990's. I just recently aquired a pair of Lambda Signatures and an SRM-T1. What a difference over the old NB Lambdas. I really really like the Signatures. As my first pair of Pro Bias Stax headphones I really don't have much of a reference point. I have had Senn 580's and 650's which I can say are no where near as fast or resolving as either of my Stax models. But I admit I never plugged them into a proper headphone amp. 

 My question today is regarding tubes for the SRM-T1. I have read the old threads about this and the consensus is that the Japan made tubes are better and the Toshibas being the best of them all. I purchased two pairs of tubes. Raytheons which are made in japan, and this morning I bought a pair of Mullard labeled tubes off of Ebay. I did some research on the Mullards and found that most were made in Australia. Some in the UK as expected. Interestingly, the ones from Ebay say "Made in Japan" on them. I know that a lot of tube manufacturers rebranded tubes. It was very common. But when I researched this I could find nothing anywhere referencing a Japan made Mullard. 

 Anyone know anything about these? Once I get them in, I will study the internals and try to ID them that way. But if anyone knows anything about Japanese Mullards, I would love to hear about it.

 I am looking forward to being a part of the forum. Thanks in advance.

 Mark


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know what you meant but dust issues present as squealing sounds and/or the diaphragm sticking to the stators (a rather unnerving trait of the HE90). It can even get so bad that the diaphragm starts to oscillate violently causing the phones to move._

 

Must be a difference between a 4'x2' transducer compared to a postage stamp transducer maybe. I have a lot of ES speakers and have handled a lot more than that, and haven't heard a squeal, except form Listeners of course! Well established trait of decreased output from dust on them though. I didn't make it up, M-L told me about it, when I was working on mine. Also, dust has been mentioned as a problem with STAX in the past, and I thought they sold dust covers for that purpose.

 I might be wrong here, but I thought it was advised to keep them in the box when not in use because of dust. Maybe it's cosmetic only. Dusty STAX might get your membership card revoked!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Must be a difference between a 4'x2' transducer compared to a postage stamp transducer maybe. I have a lot of ES speakers and have handled a lot more than that, and haven't heard a squeal, except form Listeners of course! Well established trait of decreased output from dust on them though. I didn't make it up, M-L told me about it, when I was working on mine. Also, dust has been mentioned as a problem with STAX in the past, and I thought they sold dust covers for that purpose.

 I might be wrong here, but I thought it was advised to keep them in the box when not in use because of dust. Maybe it's cosmetic only. Dusty STAX might get your membership card revoked!_

 

Re: dust, when I opened up my Lambdas there was a mylar type cover on the back of the drivers which would keep dust out. However I don' t think there was a comparable cover on the front, i.e. ear-side, hence the need to keep the foam on the front side. Am I correct on this, and is this the same set-up for most stats?


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re: dust, when I opened up my Lambdas there was a mylar type cover on the back of the drivers which would keep dust out. However I don' t think there was a comparable cover on the front, i.e. ear-side, hence the need to keep the foam on the front side. Am I correct on this, and is this the same set-up for most stats?_

 

There used to be a PVC cover on the front and woven nylon mesh on the back. This setup goes all the way back to the SR-1 and works well since the wool in the back means no dust will ever get through. Once Stax dropped the wool they changed to PVC on both sides of the driver and that's how all the current models are. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Must be a difference between a 4'x2' transducer compared to a postage stamp transducer maybe. I have a lot of ES speakers and have handled a lot more than that, and haven't heard a squeal, except form Listeners of course! Well established trait of decreased output from dust on them though. I didn't make it up, M-L told me about it, when I was working on mine. Also, dust has been mentioned as a problem with STAX in the past, and I thought they sold dust covers for that purpose.

 I might be wrong here, but I thought it was advised to keep them in the box when not in use because of dust. Maybe it's cosmetic only. Dusty STAX might get your membership card revoked!_

 

It all boils down to the bias voltage use and the D/S gap. In a Stax model the D/S gap is 0.5mm so a small dust particle will easily act as a conductor or even just decrease the gap enough for the stators to arc over to the diaphragm. For speakers you need more bias since the D/S gap has to be increased to allow for more excursion. Now with a highly optimized driver such as you'll find in the Quads or the old Stax speakers you need dust covers as the margins are just as small as in the headphones. ML being the but of all jokes in the electrostatic world (with such epic technology as Clearspar aka clear plastic spacers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) has drivers which are far from as optimized and can thus be used in the open air. It's asking for trouble but still they continue to build them like this as it's all about the look. 

 As for the Stax dust cover, it's better to be safe then sorry (there is no way to repair Stax elements unless you are nuts) but it's origins are in the Lambda Signature days which was the first model to sport a woven vinyl back dustcover yet had no wool. Thus there were some mild dust issues and Stax found a new product to sell. Win, win...


----------



## cat6man

ooop a dupe


----------



## cat6man

let's talk some more about putting the stax in the shower (as least metaphorically).

 i noticed this evening that the imbalance, while still there, is down to maybe 3 db........i wonder about the impact of dryness (it has been below freezing for a few days now) since the relative humidity in the house is down (we have steam radiators which dry things out) despite running a couple of room humidifiers.

 perhaps my phones are coming back to life as spritzer suggested might happen?
 would you expect humidity to impact them, and if so, how?
 is there anything i can pro-actively do (short of walking into the shower) that might help?

 thanks


----------



## wavoman

Is this parasitic charge a bug spreading thru New Jersey??

 Will I also catch Catman's double post disease?

 Go figure the odds on this batman: MD1032 (John) and I yesterday were listening to 'stats and then, all of a sudden, the Lambda Sigs get this imbalance! Right is like 3 db down ... just like Catman!! On both the 717 and the SRM-1/MK-2, so it's the phones (besides, the 404s plugged in to these had no problems).

 I was getting ready to contact Yama's when I saw these posts. Will try the discharge trick. Once again, thank you Spritz.


----------



## wavoman

John and I also proved, beyond the shadow of a doubt (to ourselves, anyway), that the 717 does not tolerate long balanced cable runs (like 40 feet) in to the amp. We have the pin 2/3 thing right, and with 10 foot cables everything is peachy, but with 40 feet we lose a channel, sound is muffled, etc. I'm taklking rock-solid BJC balance interconnects here. A dynamic amp (QESLabs HPBA) that we swaped in had no problem.

 The HPBA has a balanced pass-thru (like a tape out) and, while it was fine on the end of the 40 feet balanced, when we used the pass-thru to connect the 717, both the 717 and the HPBA lost a channel (just like what happened when the 717 was connected alone at the end of the long run). Yes, we remembered to swap pins 2 and 3 when connecting the HPBA pass-thru to the 717. 

 Any ideas??????

 TIA!


----------



## Trav

Just stepped out of a hot steamy shower with my Stax, dayum batteries saved my life....whew


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It all boils down to the bias voltage use and the D/S gap... Now with a highly optimized driver such as you'll find in the Quads or the old Stax speakers you need dust covers as the margins are just as small as in the headphones. ML being the..._

 

I feel I should know this. Whats the Soundlab dust cover policy. Insofar as I can see by looking at them, theres nothing beyond the fabric covers over the cores. But I also don't know for sure what the DS gap or the bias is. Although ive read figures for bias of as far apart as 5500v and 22000v which is not a small difference.

 I hoover the cloth twice a week with the wide brush. And I clean the brush first. If these die, theres no way I can afford to get them repaired. And I love them more than my own grandmother.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_let's talk some more about putting the stax in the shower (as least metaphorically).

 i noticed this evening that the imbalance, while still there, is down to maybe 3 db........i wonder if dryness (it has been below freezing for a few days now and the humidity in the house is down (we have steam radiators which dry things out) despite running a couple of room humidifiers.

 perhaps my phones are coming back to life as spritzer suggested might happen?
 how would you expect humidity to impact them, and if so, how?
 is there anything i can pro-actively do (short of walking into the shower) that might help?

 thanks_

 

Humidity will play a large part here in conjunction with the static electricity in the air. Even though I've owned probably 150-200 Stax headphones over the years this hasn't happened often since the humidity here is always low. Your best bet is just to wait and leave the phones powered on and playing music. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wavoman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John and I also proved, beyond the shadow of a doubt (to ourselves, anyway), that the 717 does not tolerate long balanced cable runs (like 40 feet) in to the amp. We have the pin 2/3 thing right, and with 10 foot cables everything is peachy, but with 40 feet we lose a channel, sound is muffled, etc. I'm taklking rock-solid BJC balance interconnects here. A dynamic amp (QESLabs HPBA) that we swaped in had no problem.

 The HPBA has a balanced pass-thru (like a tape out) and, while it was fine on the end of the 40 feet balanced, when we used the pass-thru to connect the 717, both the 717 and the HPBA lost a channel (just like what happened when the 717 was connected alone at the end of the long run). Yes, we remembered to swap pins 2 and 3 when connecting the HPBA pass-thru to the 717. 

 Any ideas??????

 TIA!_

 

I don't see any reason why this would happen. The cable could have presented a strange load with the cumulative capacitance and inductance effects of the cable as a muffled sound could point to either a high- or a low pass filter effect. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel I should know this. Whats the Soundlab dust cover policy. Insofar as I can see by looking at them, theres nothing beyond the fabric covers over the cores. But I also don't know for sure what the DS gap or the bias is. Although ive read figures for bias of as far apart as 5500v and 22000v which is not a small difference.

 I hoover the cloth twice a week with the wide brush. And I clean the brush first. If these die, theres no way I can afford to get them repaired. And I love them more than my own grandmother._

 

I'm frankly not sure how SL builds their drivers as there are so many versions out there. The spandex cloth will block out any large particles so perhaps they are running without any covers but I'd drop them a line and ask.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What amazes me is that my Stax rig has made me ejoy classical music again after a 15 year hiatus._

 

Same here, now i know why people rave so much about Stax and classical... sound signature is so delicate and sweet. I've listened to a few movie soundtracks (orchestral musics mostly) and it just makes me feel weepy sometimes...

 Bass extension is definitely fantastic with my Lambda. First time i feel like hearing sub bass (at the beginning of the track "Champion" from the Clipse).


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Humidity will play a large part here in conjunction with the static electricity in the air. Even though I've owned probably 150-200 Stax headphones over the years this hasn't happened often since the humidity here is always low. Your best bet is just to wait and leave the phones powered on and playing music. _

 

leaving them power with radio on today while i'm at work........thanks for the suggestion

 also, seems like rest helped a bit yesterday with somewhat less imbalance......it clearly was more than 10db earlier but yesterday the imbalance measured close to 6db (which i had reported subjectively as 3db earlier)


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm frankly not sure how SL builds their drivers as there are so many versions out there. The spandex cloth will block out any large particles so perhaps they are running without any covers but I'd drop them a line and ask._

 

I emailed them weeks ago with a few simple enquiries. I recieved no reply.


----------



## spritzer

If they are anything like Magneplanar then the phone is the only way to contact them. Is the SL owners group still up and running?


----------



## Duggeh

Yup. But the forum isnt what one could call busy. Not compared to the Maggie owners who populate the planar asylum.


----------



## spritzer

There are a few SL owners on AA so I'd ask there.


----------



## cat6man

i was browsing around the stax site and noticed that the current extension cable they sell is a flat cable....................i don't even remember when i got mine anymore (long time ago), but it is a round cable

 any noticeable differences/distinctions to be made between the two?


----------



## DummyHead

My understanding of the extension cables is that there are two types. The all copper and the PC-OCC type. The flat cable only appears to come in PC-OCC while the round cables came in both configurations. If your extension cable is brown then it is the PC-OCC type and probably is sonically indistinguishable from the flat cable. If your extension is gray then it has the regular copper wire and will almost certainly sound different than the round or flat PC-OCC cables.


----------



## alcyst

After all this no-one will admit to just leaving them lying around (that's the real reason that burglar wouldn't touch them). 

 How do you protect them? back in the box after every listen? I have been trying to buy the CPC1 and HPS1, but they are tricky to find, at least in Ireland and on-line in the UK. Suggestions?


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alcyst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After all this no-one will admit to just leaving them lying around (that's the real reason that burglar wouldn't touch them). 

 How do you protect them? back in the box after every listen? I have been trying to buy the CPC1 and HPS1, but they are tricky to find, at least in Ireland and on-line in the UK. Suggestions?_

 

They should be available to order through Japanese resellers via Ebay for less than the gargantuan sums that the dealers will want.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alcyst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After all this no-one will admit to just leaving them lying around (that's the real reason that burglar wouldn't touch them). 

 How do you protect them? back in the box after every listen? I have been trying to buy the CPC1 and HPS1, but they are tricky to find, at least in Ireland and on-line in the UK. Suggestions?_

 

The HPS-1 is out of production, but otherwise:
STAX Accessories

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There used to be a PVC cover on the front and woven nylon mesh on the back. This setup goes all the way back to the SR-1 and works well since the wool in the back means no dust will ever get through. Once Stax dropped the wool they changed to PVC on both sides of the driver and that's how all the current models are. 

 As for the Stax dust cover, it's better to be safe then sorry (there is no way to repair Stax elements unless you are nuts) but it's origins are in the Lambda Signature days which was the first model to sport a woven vinyl back dustcover yet had no wool. Thus there were some mild dust issues and Stax found a new product to sell. Win, win..._

 

I have not seen such a woven cover on my Signature only a pvc cover and deteriorating foam, which I have since removed and not replaced because I prefer the sound without the replacement foam.


----------



## cat6man

it seems like my imbalanced stax are stuck that way................6-12db imbalance it seems..............last night i had a very nice listening session (remastered david crosby stuff, which was very well recorded) but had the srm-t1s attenuators adjusted so that one was at full volume and the other reduced to about 6 on the knob (about 1 o'clock)............sound was still wonderful but max volume was seriously constrained by need to back off one channel so much

 i tried calling yama's to talk about repairs but no one picked up......perhaps they are still on vacation?

 in any case, the solution came to me quickly when i found the 404LE in stock at a nice price at elusivedisc.com! tracking info this afternoon says it should be delivered on friday


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it seems like my imbalanced stax are stuck that way................6-12db imbalance it seems..............last night i had a very nice listening session (remastered david crosby stuff, which was very well recorded) but had the srm-t1s attenuators adjusted so that one was at full volume and the other reduced to about 6 on the knob (about 1 o'clock)............sound was still wonderful but max volume was seriously constrained by need to back off one channel so much

 i tried calling yama's to talk about repairs but no one picked up......perhaps they are still on vacation?

 in any case, the solution came to me quickly when i found the 404LE in stock at a nice price at elusivedisc.com! tracking info this afternoon says it should be delivered on friday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Yamasinc. is getting crotchety in its old age. I have found that only e-mail gets through to them.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it seems like my imbalanced stax are stuck that way................6-12db imbalance it seems..............last night i had a very nice listening session (remastered david crosby stuff, which was very well recorded) but had the srm-t1s attenuators adjusted so that one was at full volume and the other reduced to about 6 on the knob (about 1 o'clock)............sound was still wonderful but max volume was seriously constrained by need to back off one channel so much

 i tried calling yama's to talk about repairs but no one picked up......perhaps they are still on vacation?

 in any case, the solution came to me quickly when i found the 404LE in stock at a nice price at elusivedisc.com! tracking info this afternoon says it should be delivered on friday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

I am wondering if this is not a result of a loose connection on the driver such that one stator is. Doesn't each stator of the driver need to be connected. It could be that one has come loose or the contact to one has become bad. become bad. Some older Stax just used pressure contacts and it could be as simple as pull it out, clean it and reinsert. Alternatively something needs resoldering.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DummyHead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My understanding of the extension cables is that there are two types. The all copper and the PC-OCC type. The flat cable only appears to come in PC-OCC while the round cables came in both configurations. If your extension cable is brown then it is the PC-OCC type and probably is sonically indistinguishable from the flat cable. If your extension is gray then it has the regular copper wire and will almost certainly sound different than the round or flat PC-OCC cables._

 

thanks..........my cable is brown.............it's amazing 
 how much knowledge and expertise is on this forum......glad
 i found you all


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am wondering if this is not a result of a loose connection on the driver such that one stator is. Doesn't each stator of the driver need to be connected. It could be that one has come loose or the contact to one has become bad. become bad. Some older Stax just used pressure contacts and it could be as simple as pull it out, clean it and reinsert. Alternatively something needs resoldering._

 

yes, it seems like something less than catastrophic failure as they still sound
 really good to me when i correct for the big gain mismatch


----------



## Than

hello Stax enthusiasts, would you all consider the 2050A system to be the right way to go for an entry level stax setup? Keep in mind, I'm on a bit of a budget, and I'm thinking I'll need to get a new source to go with the system, I 'd like to use my computer, so I guess I need a DAC, what do you suggest pairing it with? Would like the to get everything for under $1000 (I'll be purchasing the stax system in Japan, if I decide it's for me, for around $450, as opposed to the $700 I see here). So what do you guys think? I can go a bit over if I have to.
 I realize this is the super high-end forum, and I'm not really shooting for the stars, but it seemed like the thread to ask in...


----------



## The Monkey

I would recommend a used Lambda Pro + SRM1/MK2 + Pico DAC.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would recommend a used Lambda Pro + SRM1/MK2 + Pico DAC._

 

I'd be concerned that that combo of gear would end up being a bit bright with recessed mids. Lambda Pro were better in the SRM-T1, but I prefer normal bias Lambda with the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro.


----------



## The Monkey

I didn't consider that combo bright at all, and I thought the mids were sweet. Things certainly were a bit smoother with the 007tII, but that blows the budget. Also, how easy is it to find normal bias Lambdas these days? I was under the impression it was difficult. Is that incorrect?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't consider that combo bright at all, and I thought the mids were sweet. Things certainly were a bit smoother with the 007tII, but that blows the budget. Also, how easy is it to find normal bias Lambdas these days? I was under the impression it was difficult. Is that incorrect?_

 

I haven't been watching the used Lambda market lately, so I can't say. I didn't have a hard time getting a pair for myself or my son though. If I recall I did used to see Lambda Pro for sale more often than normal Lambdas, but Lambdas were easier to find than an SRD-7 Mk2 or SRD-7 Pro. But since I left the market I stopped paying attention. I got my Lambda/SRD-X for $230 from plaidplatypus and my son's Lambda with no amp from Fitz for $230 almost a year later. Combine the normal Lambda with an SRM-T1 and the sound is quite good.

 Based on how my Lambda Pro with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro sounded together when I owned them (recessed mids but good bass and soundstage, with some lower treble etch = smiley face curve), I would at least think the warmer more forward uDAC would be a better match. In my case I'd almost rather try an unheard 2050A than to own a Lambda Pro with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro again, but I could live with it with the right source to compensate.

 Now, if he could get an SR-404LE + eXStatA amp or SRM-1 Mk2 Pro it would be my recommended $1000 rig, but it only leaves room for a cheaper uDAC or SuperPro DAC707 which are probably still near the level of the Headroom Micro DAC. Unfortunately the eXStatA are not out there and easy to buy, and the third Built It Yourself run of PCB is already accounted for.


----------



## The Monkey

That all sounds great. 

 I stand by my recommendation.


----------



## The Monkey

That all sounds great. 

 I stand by my recommendation.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That all sounds great. 

 I stand by my recommendation._

 

I'm just trying to have a useful conversation here, and not trying to attack you. But I stand by my recs as well.


----------



## The Monkey

I don't feel like you're attacking me at all. We've all heard a bunch of Stax rigs and our opinions differ, that's all.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't feel like you're attacking me at all. We've all heard a bunch of Stax rigs and our opinions differ, that's all._

 

Cool. And the difference in opinion about the amp/phones combo could have been due to our sources/cables, or simply personal preferences. 

 To Than - a lot of the varying opinions here could be affected by many factors, so anyone buying something without hearing it first (and comes here for advice) needs to look at a large number of opinions from people who have similar tastes to theirs. And also look at what gear is being combined - one change in the system can make a big difference in the sound, or a small one.


----------



## padam

An SRM-T1 + normal bias SR-Lambda is a very sweet combo, too. It lacks a bit of deep bass, but after you got adjusted to them, it is just great. And you might try a Gamma-2 from the rest (more flexible, you can upgrade the input mode and the PSU later).


----------



## spritzer

Normal bias Lambdas have been hard to find recently so it isn't a good recommendation despite how good they do sound. The L-Pro system is a good recommendation but I'd personally just buy a SRS-2050 from Japan since the amp isn't that much worse then the SRM-1 Mk2 and the SR-202 is more to my liking. As for sources, listen to the Monkey, the man loves DAC's.


----------



## padam

Well I actually saw slightly more of them than from vintage Lambda Pros which doesn't seem to pop up more frequently either, the production of the NB Lambda was discontinued much later.


----------



## spritzer

There does seem to be less of vintage Stax phones for sale now then in 2007 when I was drowning in them.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now, if he could get an SR-404LE + eXStatA amp or SRM-1 Mk2 Pro it would be my recommended $1000 rig, but it only leaves room for a cheaper uDAC or SuperPro DAC707 which are probably still near the level of the Headroom Micro DAC. Unfortunately the eXStatA are not out there and easy to buy, and the third Built It Yourself run of PCB is already accounted for._

 

larry,
 how would you compare 404LE + amps recommended above to 404LE + SRM-T1
 combo?


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't consider that combo bright at all, and I thought the mids were sweet. Things certainly were a bit smoother with the 007tII, but that blows the budget. Also, how easy is it to find normal bias Lambdas these days? I was under the impression it was difficult. Is that incorrect?_

 

The Lambda Pro was my favorite of the the Lambdas with the SRM-007t. I have a spare set of Lambda Pros put away here that I should probably sell off.

 For $1000 you could blow it all on a SR-404LIMITED, SRD-7 Pro, and a used receiver. Upgrade the cheap receiver to a good speaker amp and add a good DAC when the budget allows.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_larry,
 how would you compare 404LE + amps recommended above to 404LE + SRM-T1
 combo?_

 

I'm not Larry, but I wouldn't run off looking for a SRM-1/MK-2 Pro when the SRM-T1 does a nice job.


----------



## padam

Got my SRM-T1 today with an English owner's manual. There is something weird in it though:
 It is pictured together with an SR-Lambda Signature and for that it says that it has a 1.5 micron diaphragm.
 Earlier on I discovered that the very late Sigma Pro's got the 1.5 micron driver as well, could the same happened with the Signature as well? Or could it be just a simple typo?


----------



## spritzer

A type I'd say as the Sigma Pro manual and the Signature series brochure talk about the 1um diaphragm.


----------



## mobbaddict

Is it OK to use the line out of a portable DAC through a Stax amp, with a mini jack-RCA adapter? I mean is it as good as an RCA cable?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_larry,
 how would you compare 404LE + amps recommended above to 404LE + SRM-T1
 combo?_

 

I haven't tried the SR404LE on an SRM-T1, so I'd be reluctant to recommend that over the other combos that I have heard. However, it would probably be fine, depending on the tubes and source you use. In general I think the SRM-T1 sounds closer to the GES and is more refined and warmer sounding than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and liked it when I heard it with Lambdas and Lambda Signature.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it OK to use the line out of a portable DAC through a Stax amp, with a mini jack-RCA adapter? I mean is it as good as an RCA cable?_

 

Should be fine - I used a Pico DAC/amp for almost a year via mini-RCA into my GES.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried the SR404LE on an SRM-T1, so I'd be reluctant to recommend that over the other combos that I have heard. However, it would probably be fine, depending on the tubes and source you use. In general I think the SRM-T1 sounds closer to the GES and is more refined and warmer sounding than the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, and liked it when I heard it with Lambdas and Lambda Signature._

 

thanks.

 the source is very sweet, wadia 27ix fed aes/ebu from tact rcs2.0s which upsamples to 96k..........there is some strange mojo going on there as the wadia soundstage just blossoms with this feed, and collapses with spdif input (even at 96k) or with aes/ebu at 44k..........i only discovered this combo this past year and am kicking myself for not having discovered this magic years ago

 i take it from your contents that you are a tube roller..........i have not done anything on that path but you have me intrigued now............assuming i have default mfr tubes in there now, are their any tubes you'd recommend i try?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks.

 the source is very sweet, wadia 27ix fed aes/ebu from tact rcs2.0s which upsamples to 96k..........there is some strange mojo going on there as the wadia soundstage just blossoms with this feed, and collapses with spdif input (even at 96k) or with aes/ebu at 44k..........i only discovered this combo this past year and am kicking myself for not having discovered this magic years ago

 i take it from your contents that you are a tube roller..........i have not done anything on that path but you have me intrigued now............assuming i have default mfr tubes in there now, are their any tubes you'd recommend i try?_

 

I think someone was recommending Japanese made Mazda or Toshiba tubes before, but I wouldn't know for sure. I was just using the amp but it wasn't mine.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should be fine - I used a Pico DAC/amp for almost a year via mini-RCA into my GES._

 

Indeed, thanks.


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my SRM-T1 today..._

 

Welcome to Team SRM-T1!

 I assume you already have the Stax plug pinout diagram picture and a multimeter.

 After you go through various 6CG7 and invariably settle on Toshiba tubes, don't forget to try some 6SN7GTB using adapters.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to Team SRM-T1!

 I assume you already have the Stax plug pinout diagram picture and a multimeter.

 After you go through various 6CG7 and invariably settle on Toshiba tubes, don't forget to try some 6SN7GTB using adapters. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

"Hey.. step in my office... this is very good stuff from Mexico.. you will know where that extra money went..."


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Welcome to Team SRM-T1!

 I assume you already have the Stax plug pinout diagram picture and a multimeter.

 After you go through various 6CG7 and invariably settle on Toshiba tubes, don't forget to try some 6SN7GTB using adapters. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

i have an srm-t1s so this caught my eye

 1. any recommendations for sources for 6cg7 toshiba's?
 2. can you elaborate on the use of the multimeter? is there a bias or other adjustment to make? if so, is there a link you can show us?

 thanks


----------



## cat6man

my 404LE's arrive tomorrow.
 this is my 1st NEW set of stats since i bought SR-3's back in college.

 any recommendations on break-in times needed for new stax?
 hours? days? weeks?


----------



## catscratch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_my 404LE's arrive tomorrow.
 this is my 1st NEW set of stats since i bought SR-3's back in college.

 any recommendations on break-in times needed for new stax?
 hours? days? weeks?_

 

I never noticed any burn-in effects with the 404, or O2 Mk2, or any other new 'stat I've had except for the SR-001/003.

 I'd say just listen to it.

 You will probably hear the amp warming up though.


----------



## hipcat

I would like to try a stax setup but I'm on a pretty tight budget and can't aford both hp and amp at the same time. I read if you have a decent stereo amp you can use it with stax. I was given a mid 80's 120 watt denon amp and was wondering if this would work out as an amp.
 Thanks, Hipcat


----------



## n3rdling

You just need a transformer to use your speaker amp to power the Stax headphones. You have to decide if you want a normal bias or pro bias Stax headphone. If pro bias, you'll need a SRD7 Pro or mkII. What is your budget?


----------



## kh6idf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Than* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hello Stax enthusiasts, would you all consider the 2050A system to be the right way to go for an entry level stax setup? Keep in mind, I'm on a bit of a budget, and I'm thinking I'll need to get a new source to go with the system, I 'd like to use my computer, so I guess I need a DAC, what do you suggest pairing it with? Would like the to get everything for under $1000 (I'll be purchasing the stax system in Japan, if I decide it's for me, for around $450, as opposed to the $700 I see here). So what do you guys think? I can go a bit over if I have to.
 I realize this is the super high-end forum, and I'm not really shooting for the stars, but it seemed like the thread to ask in..._

 

Don't think the 2050A system might not be good enough, it's plenty good! I have one and think it sounds great.


----------



## hipcat

My budget would be around $250 I read in another post that you could get Stax SR-5 and SRD-6 for about that price.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My budget would be around $250 I read in another post that you could get Stax SR-5 and SRD-6 for about that price._

 

In fact you can often get the low bias transformer quite cheaply, separate from phones. Then you can choose from a variety of low bias phones.

 Going high bias is more difficult because the high bias transformer costs about as much as a cheap Stax amp. I recently sold a high bias Lambda system, including a full-size amp for a bit under $400.00.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My budget would be around $250 I read in another post that you could get Stax SR-5 and SRD-6 for about that price._

 

You should be able to find that combo for much cheaper. There are pairs on ebay.com ebay.de and ebay.co.uk right now...I'm sure you could get a pair for $100.

 The only other options you have are the SR3, SRX, and Gamma. Unless you get really lucky and find a SR Lambda for ~$200 (they don't come up often).


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. any recommendations for sources for 6cg7 toshiba's?
 2. can you elaborate on the use of the multimeter? is there a bias or other adjustment to make? if so, is there a link you can show us?_

 

1. Try Yahoo Japan or eBay. Some of the well-known tube sellers might have some. They're not expensive.

 2. You need a multimeter and the Stax plug pinout diagram to adjust bias on the tubes.

  Quote:


 You use a normal multimeter set at DC voltage, the lowest voltage level (20volts or less). The amp is powered on when you do this with the new tubes inside. Never pull out tubes when amps are turned on. Only do so when the amp is disconnected from the wall. Leave the amp on for two hours so the new tubes can stabilize. You measure in the Stax plug on the front and here is a picture







 First you measure between + and - on one channel and adjust TVR1 and then put the multimeter between + and the ground post at the back and adjust TVR2. Both are adjusted for zero. They pots are clearly marked on the PCB for each channel. 

 Be very careful inside the amp because there are some hundreds of volts floating around. I use a special screwdriver that is only bare metal at the very tip to adjust but plastic screwdrivers are also good. Below are the original instructions from head-fi posted by Kevin Gilmore in case I missed something:

 There are 2 pots per channel.

 One of them is the differential pot, and you
 put a voltmeter between The two output pins
 and adjust for zero. I believe this pot is labeled TVR1
 For left channel voltmeter goes between yellow and green
 for right channel it is white and red

 The other is the dc offset pot, you put a voltmeter
 on either output pin and ground and adjust for zero.
 I believe this pot is labeled TVR2. For left channel voltmeter
 goes between yellow and ground, for right channel it is
 white and ground.

 You have to do this a number of times, and new tubes drift like crazy. 
 

Don't be fooled. I'm posting this but I just copied and pasted it, it was originally posted by KG, I think. Me, I barely know how to use a multimeter.


----------



## hipcat

would the STAX ELECTRET HEADPHONES SR-40 & SRD-4 be a good pair to start with
 Thanks, Hipcat


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't be fooled. I'm posting this but I just copied and pasted it, it was originally posted by KG, I think. Me, I barely know how to use a multimeter._

 

It was already posted by KG but everything above "There are two pots per channel" is mine.


----------



## cat6man

i got out my fluke meter to see how well biased my srm-t1s amp is.
 i bought it used about 10 years ago and have never changed tubes or adjusted anything.

 after warm-up of a few hours of listening this morning, i measured at the jack on the front as follows:

 L+ to L- (3.4V)
 R+ to R- (4.7V)

 L to chassis ground (2.3V)
 R to chassis ground (3.3V)

 as seen from front faceplate,
 L+ is pin3 at 12:00
 L- is pin4 at 9:00
 R- is pin5 at 7:00
 R+ is pin2 at 3:00

 B (high voltage) is pin1 at 5:00

 i will see about tweaking these values down towards zero volts this weekend.

 what values do the rest of you see on your tubed stax amps?
 how close to zero Volts can we reasonably expect to get?

 cheers
 -- waiting (im)patiently for the ups dude to arrive with my new 404LEs --


----------



## TimJo

My SR-404LE's finally arrived yesterday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be posting some impressions of how they sound with my eXStatA hybrid in a few days, after I've had the chance to listen to a bunch of my favorite albums...


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what values do the rest of you see on your tubed stax amps?
 how close to zero Volts can we reasonably expect to get?_

 

Within a few hundred mV + or -. It fluctuates.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Within a few hundred mV + or -. It fluctuates._

 

then i definitely need to adjust some pots this weekend.

 has anyone have a feel for how 2-5V offsets (as I measured this morning) on these settings manifests itself? does it impact any specific aspects of the listening experience?


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would the STAX ELECTRET HEADPHONES SR-40 & SRD-4 be a good pair to start with
 Thanks, Hipcat_

 

As long as you don't pay much for them, say $50, and that may be too high. I got my SR-3 and SRD-5 for $100. An SR-5 with an SRD-6 routinely goes for less than $150.


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Try Yahoo Japan or eBay. Some of the well-known tube sellers might have some. They're not expensive.





_

 

are those magnets on top of the transformer at lower left?


----------



## spritzer

Foam pads


----------



## TimJo

They look more like foam stick-on pads, stacked up maybe to help support the top of the case?

 cross-post ~ at least my guess was right


----------



## nsx_23

I'm thinking of purchasing a Stax SRM1 MKII type C for use with my 404s. Is about $440ish shipped for this amp a reasonable price, and how would it pair with the 404?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TimJo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They look more like foam stick-on pads, stacked up maybe to help support the top of the case?

 cross-post ~ at least my guess was right 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Perhaps anti-buzz foam?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of purchasing a Stax SRM1 MKII type C for use with my 404s. Is about $440ish shipped for this amp a reasonable price, and how would it pair with the 404?_

 

This is reasonable to a slightly high price. I think the amp is good with everything Stax, but some complain about a slight high frequency edge. I say take the foam backing from the 404's and you will get the best sound.


----------



## nsx_23

Well, the amp itself is $380-ish, but its the shipping thats expensive....

 Is the SRM1 the one with a block on the back that allows you to switch input voltage, or do you have to rewire it internally? I ask this because I'm buying the unit from the US, but over here in Australia we use 240V.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, the amp itself is $380-ish, but its the shipping thats expensive....

 Is the SRM1 the one with a block on the back that allows you to switch input voltage, or do you have to rewire it internally? I ask this because I'm buying the unit from the US, but over here in Australia we use 240V._

 

That's way too expensive IMO. I got mine for $220 off Yahoo auctions japan. Srm-1's appear quite often (but not always the "C" version).


----------



## nsx_23

I just seem to be having terrible luck trying to find something which suits my needs at a reasonable price.


----------



## John Buchanan

Go for it - if it's in excellent condition - that amp is rather nice and very well built. Ask for a picture of the rear of the amp to show the block. In Melbourne, go and have a look at Trevor Lees Audio and see if they have any used Stax stuff for sale.


----------



## cat6man

elephas,
 it should not go unmentioned that you have challenged us all by showing your
 amp adjusted to an offset of only (insert drumroll here)..............1 mV


----------



## cat6man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I say take the foam backing from the 404's and you will get the best sound._

 

can someone describe the procedure to take out the foam backing?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_elephas,
 it should not go unmentioned that you have challenged us all by showing your
 amp adjusted to an offset of only (insert drumroll here)..............1 mV 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Real show-off ain't he!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can someone describe the procedure to take out the foam backing?_

 

This is actually pretty simple and you don't even have to fully remove the earpads.

 The driver is on an aluminum baffle, held in place by screws at the corners, under the earpads. 

 1) Peel back the corners of the earpads, about 1/2 inch to expose the screw heads. 

 2) When all the screws are out, pry out the driver/baffle. I insert a very thin knife blade between the baffle and the outer cover. Slide the blade along the baffle if need be, take your time and be gentle it will work loose. 

 3) The driver, mounted on its baffle, with the pads still on, should then pop out an inch or so. You really don't need to open it more to get the foam. Reach in and grab the foam, possibly with screw driver, tweezers or finger if it is open enough.


 Cautions.

 1) Don't try to pull out the cable, it should stay right where it is mounted on the outer cup. 
 2) Be carefull with the driver, if you should expose it. There is a thin clear dust cover on the back of the driver that you do not want to cut, or press too hard. 

 Then, put it back together, replace the screws and press the pad corners. 


 Also see this thread:http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of purchasing a Stax SRM1 MKII type C for use with my 404s. Is about $440ish shipped for this amp a reasonable price, and how would it pair with the 404?_

 

Go for it!
 The price sounds reasonable to me, although you may be able to find one for a bit cheaper if you wait. Perhaps not a type C though..

 Bring those SR-404 I gave you to life...


----------



## nsx_23

Hmm, what were the main differences between the C and the earlier versions?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Go for it - if it's in excellent condition - that amp is rather nice and very well built. Ask for a picture of the rear of the amp to show the block. In Melbourne, go and have a look at Trevor Lees Audio and see if they have any used Stax stuff for sale._

 

I do have a picture of the rear, and there's no "block" per se. The seller has said he will rewire it for 240V though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seems somebody is having trouble with Trevor lees audio - http://scottjnrwah.wordpress.com/


----------



## paaj

If all Stax amps are as easy as my T1W turned out to be, you won't get to any problem even if it does not get rewired 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You just may need some help of the knowledgeable Stax people.


 on another note: I noticed that I selecting another input does not really shut off the audio signal. If I play music into input 1 but select input 2 I can easily hear this as noise on lower levels, and clearly audible on higher levels. Is this just bad design? No real problem as I just use one source at a time anyway, but it feels strange.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, what were the main differences between the C and the earlier versions?



 I do have a picture of the rear, and there's no "block" per se. The seller has said he will rewire it for 240V though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seems somebody is having trouble with Trevor lees audio - High Fidelity – buying from Trevor Lees Audio_

 

Years ago I had a "C: but got rid of it because it only had high bias sockets and I needed a low bias. I now have an A and B, each has high and low bias and I can't hear any obviois difference between the A and B models on either high or low bias.


----------



## manaox2

Most claim the C version has better sound quality in their impressions it seems.


----------



## spritzer

The some high SN C series were built like the PP model (which was a derivative of the ATR version, intended for studio use) even if they don't bear the PP badge. The changes include better wiring, better resistors and supposedly transistor matching (no way to confirm this though).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The some high SN C series were built like the PP model (which was a derivative of the ATR version, intended for studio use) even if they don't bear the PP badge. The changes include better wiring, better resistors and supposedly transistor matching (no way to confirm this though)._

 

I think that was what I had. At the time I only had low bias Stax phones and had ordered an SRM1Mk2 from Audioadvisor, who had good deals for a while on Stax, which was at the time in bankruptcy. Alas, without a high bias phone the amp was useless to me and I sent it back unheard.


----------



## nsx_23

The 404 should couple reasonably nicely with the SRM to get a good idea of the "stax" signature sound right?


----------



## lu-chen-chan

ello , please can somebody tell me what is a difference between sax SR001 and SR003 in sound and built quality?thanx


----------



## padam

SR001 Mk2 (SR001 is discontinued) uses a battery powered amp with a custom plug so it is the portable version while the SR003 can be used with any of the amps since it uses the standard Pro plug. Sound-wise they are the same only the amp used makes a difference. But the cable is user replaceable so you can make an SR003 from an SR001 Mk2 and vice versa.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 404 should couple reasonably nicely with the SRM to get a good idea of the "stax" signature sound right?_

 

People I know that owned it said that they enjoyed the combo, should be enough to get an idea and more.


----------



## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SR001 Mk2 (SR001 is discontinued) uses a battery powered amp with a custom plug so it is the portable version while the SR003 can be used with any of the amps since it uses the standard Pro plug. Sound-wise they are the same only the amp used makes a difference. But the cable is user replaceable so you can make an SR003 from an SR001 Mk2 and vice versa._

 

Does it plug in? It looks hard wired in pictures.


----------



## padam

Yes the cable is removable but I guess a used SR003 can be had for not much more than a cable from Stax.


----------



## GuyDebord

Im looking for someone that would be willing to mod my srm-001 with the super fatcat mod +. If you (or know someone) have time, willingness and have the skill please send me a pm, Im sure we can arrange something


----------



## DaveBSC

Just got my O2 Mk1s today. They appear to be in good order, but the pins are quite dirty. What do you guys recommend for cleaning the pins?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my O2 Mk1s today. They appear to be in good order, but the pins are quite dirty. What do you guys recommend for cleaning the pins?_

 

Deoxit and/or Progold.


----------



## DaveBSC

Thanks. Also, I know the MK1's cable has a reputation for being somewhat delicate. How anal do I need to be with it? If I do have an issue with the cable, where should I send them for repair?


----------



## brat

hmmm... I have a chance to buy new Stax Lambda Pro + SRD-7 (I think) energizer. Unopened, in a box. The price is "300-400 euro" (the seller told me that when I asked about the price). Does it worth? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I've read some threads concerning Lambda Pros and I'm not sure that it's my sound...


----------



## padam

If it is not the Lambda Pro Classic (you can tell by looking at the housing, whether it has the white dampening material inside) then you should definitely buy it, and I think the adapter is probably either the SRD-7 Mk2 or the SRD-7 Pro, one the two most desirable versions. The vintage Pro is nearly the only Lambda I didn't have a chance hear, but is regarded as one of the best by many. Here is a comparision

 If it Is the Lambda Pro Classic (bigger chance since it was made later) and the adapter only has normal bias connectors then it is an 'ok' deal.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmm... I have a chance to buy new Stax Lambda Pro + SRD-7 (I think) energizer. Unopened, in a box. The price is "300-400 euro" (the seller told me that when I asked about the price). Does it worth? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I've read some threads concerning Lambda Pros and I'm not sure that it's my sound..._

 

You really need to confirm that the energizer is high bias. I wouldn't put it past some persons to sell a pro(high Bias) phone with a low bias energizer. It will work, but not up to specs. If the energizer is high bias it sounds like a good deal. Some people don't like the Lambda Pro but you can decide for yourself and do tweaks like remove the backing, something I do for my lambdas.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Does anyone use a preamp with their Stax SRM-007tII or similar unit? I would not want to drive it to death but I thought it might add a bit more fidelity. I do have a world class tube preamp to try it out with. Probably a terrible idea, I admit.

 If only the unit had a pre in.


----------



## plaidplatypus

You can bypass the volume control with the SRM-727II with the bypass switch located inside the amp. I think the SRM-717 had something similar but I've never opened one up.


----------



## John Buchanan

It does.


----------



## brat

So I must buy if it's the high bias version. Well... I think it is. I'll take it (if anyone hadn't outstripped me).

 But I'm a little confused - audiod in his comparative review says that the Limbda Pros as "laidback and a little dark" but yesterday I've found here many opinions about the brightness of the Pro version... I definitely don't like bight headphones. Unfortunately I'll not be able to hear it before the deal.


----------



## mobbaddict

Feedbacks got me confused too about the Pro. I've never heard it but from what i understand i think it has very slightly recessed upper mids (contrary to other Lambdas) but forward treble. So depending on what you listen to i guess it might be annoying (to my ears forward treble is awful for all electronica productions, but it may be OK for acoustic stuff). I think that graph helps a lot
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//images...ambdaPro2e.jpg


----------



## nsx_23

Would I be doing the SR-404 justice by just going with a SRM-252A?


----------



## Bullseye

Yeah!


----------



## hipcat

was wondering if any body has or heard a stax sr3/srd 5 and what they think of them how would they compare to my d5000's


----------



## scompton

I haven't heard the D5000, but I'll guarantee that the SR-3 and SR-5 won't have as much bass.


----------



## hipcat

Thanks I'm looking at a sr-3 srd-5 stax set up and was wondering what to expect if I got it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would I be doing the SR-404 justice by just going with a SRM-252A?_

 

This amp would be fine for the more efficient SR003, with which it is often sold. I personally would go for one of the better old transistor amp such an SRM 1 Mk2 which you can usually get for about $300.00 or a 717 at 2 to 3 times the price. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks I'm looking at a sr-3 srd-5 stax set up and was wondering what to expect if I got it._

 

Depends on what you are used to. These old low bias phones hold up quite well to most current dynamic phones. However these are pretty old designs as stats go. All current Stax, Sennheiser and Koss stat phones run at higher bias, which generally gives you more dynamics.

 Also since you are using an external power amp rather than a headphone amp, the sound quality is significantly determined by the external amp. The adapter is a very old model and I am not sure how it holds up to the later, but still discontinued adapters. I am personally wary of old phones that hsve been run with transformer adapters because they may be run at such high volumes that the driver diaphragms may have arced, leaving holes. The phones may still work more or less ok but probably with less bass. The Stax amps are less likely to cause arcing.

 As long as everything is in good condition and you pay about $200.00 or less you should be happy.


----------



## hipcat

Thanks, i'm interested to hear what stax sound like but i'm on a tight budget and don't want to spend alot to start. I read I could use a stereo amp for these and have a mid 80's upper level denon 120 watt amp I thought I'd get some use out of. I'm looking at apair of sr-3 srd-5 or a pair of sr-5 srd-6 on ebay and tring to decide witch woould be better for me.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, i'm interested to hear what stax sound like but i'm on a tight budget and don't want to spend alot to start. I read I could use a stereo amp for these and have a mid 80's upper level denon 120 watt amp I thought I'd get some use out of. I'm looking at apair of sr-3 srd-5 or a pair of sr-5 srd-6 on ebay and tring to decide witch woould be better for me._

 

The SR5's look to be in better condition but if the SR3 set-up is less than $100.00, what the heck?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_was wondering if any body has or heard a stax sr3/srd 5 and what they think of them how would they compare to my d5000's_

 

When I had an SR-3/SRD-5 it reminded me a little of a stock SR-001 Mk1, which wont help you a lot. 

 It had nice rich mids without sounding bright like an SR-5, but the bass and treble seemed rolled off at the ends while the D5000 don't do that. The SR-3 bass might have been a little more than the SR-5, but the SR-5NB has the best bass of that group of phones and it still can't touch the D5000 prodigious bass (the SR-5NB bass was about as good as a Grado RS-1 with bowl pads, the SR-3 bass was a good bit less and I can't think of a dynamic phone with bass like that, well maybe the W5000). The normal SR-5 highs were better than the SR-3's, but I thought the SR-3 bass was better than the SR-5. The SR-5NB gold edition is the perfect blend of bass, mids, treble and can seriously challenge a Gradp RS-1/RS-2 in sound quality. You might want to hold out for a pair of those, or a pair of SR-Lambdas.

 So in summary, the SR-3 didn't give that sparkle or subterranean bass of the D5000, but the mids are also very good like a stock D5000, but not as warm sounding as the D5000. Bass in the SR-3 was present but didn't have impact like the SR-5NB does, which can not hit like the D5000. The SR-3 bass with SRD-5 and 12 watt amp was maybe as strong as my HE60 bass (but not as deep), while the standard SR-5 bass was less. Personally, I would prefer the D5000 over the normal SR-3 or SR-5, but I likely would take the SR-5NB (gold edition) over the D5000 as I think they are overall a better balanced phone.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This amp would be fine for the more efficient SR003, with which it is often sold. I personally would go for one of the better old transistor amp such an SRM 1 Mk2 which you can usually get for about $300.00 or a 717 at 2 to 3 times the price._

 

In terms of volume my Nova Signature doesn't need more power than the SR-003 off the SRM-212 -only 20%.


----------



## spritzer

Volume has nothing to with power!


----------



## ri_toast

hipcat you have a pm. 
 check this link a review of the sr3 and e9
ESP/9 Electrostatic Stereophone - Wikiphonia


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Volume has nothing to with power!_

 

Well sorry for using the wrong terms, but i'm just saying the Lambda sounds as loud as the SR-003 and seems very well driven. I haven't heard it off another amp though.


----------



## hipcat

Just brought sr-30's/ srd-4 from the forum here (thought I'd spend my money here instead of ebay) Can't wait to see what stax are like!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hipcat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just brought sr-30's/ srd-4 from the forum here (thought I'd spend my money here instead of ebay) Can't wait to see what stax are like!_

 

Halfway decent for sure, my son got a free set from craiglester at a meet and likes them. The SR-80/SRD-4 are a better electret headphone set, and my son actually uses the SR-80 a lot more. I found the SR-80 for $40 from a guy who didn't have the SRD-4, and you might find a good deal somewhere as an upgrade later.

 On a totally unrelated note, I may end up selling one of my two pairs of SR-Lambda to partially fund buying my old SR-404LE back, and would include an SRD-6 with it. If I do post it in the FS forum I'll let you know. I haven't decided yet.


----------



## Mortuus

guys I posted a thread in the headphone area:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/stax-help-467171/

 Just wondering if any of you can answer the questions there are you all seem to know about Stax quite well. Also, sorry if the questions in that thread are noobish as I pretty much don't know anything about Stax really.


----------



## Mortuus

edit


----------



## nsx_23

If anyone in Melbourne has a STAX set-up they wouldn't mind letting me have a listen to, please do get in touch.

 Just want to make sure I like the sound before biting the bullet on what is, for me, a considerably expensive purchase (the amp) =)


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


 I am personally wary of old phones that hsve been run with transformer adapters because they may be run at such high volumes that the driver diaphragms may have arced, leaving holes. The phones may still work more or less ok but probably with less bass. The Stax amps are less likely to cause arcing. 
 

I don't really get it... can someone explain this better to a noob ? Thanks


----------



## DummyHead

Is there a way to visually tell if there has been arcing? In my experience arcing is when the current and voltage are raised to such high levels that electrons will flow across two closely spaced (+) and (-) power rails with the result of a sudden spark (arc) as the device momentarily shorts. This usually causes black residue where the arc occured. Can you see this if you examine a stat panel where arcing has taken place?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't really get it... can someone explain this better to a noob ? Thanks_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DummyHead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there a way to visually tell if there has been arcing? In my experience arcing is when the current and voltage are raised to such high levels that electrons will flow across two closely spaced (+) and (-) power rails with the result of a sudden spark (arc) as the device momentarily shorts. This usually causes black residue where the arc occured. Can you see this if you examine a stat panel where arcing has taken place?_

 

You can tell if there is arcing if there are holes in the diaphragm. I believe that most newer stats are protected against arcing by using a spacer to prevent the diaphragm getting too close to the stator. Whether this will protect in all circumstances I do not know.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Halfway decent for sure, my son got a free set from craiglester at a meet and likes them. The SR-80/SRD-4 are a better electret headphone set, and my son actually uses the SR-80 a lot more. I found the SR-80 for $40 from a guy who didn't have the SRD-4, and you might find a good deal somewhere as an upgrade later._

 

It's a matter of preference - the SR-30 and SR-80 have precisely the same driver. The SR-30 frame is designed to maximize bass response, the SR-80 frame is designed to maximize headstage. 

 What's more interesting is that Audio-Technica electrets from the same era appear to have the same driver too - except they tucked the fiberglass pad under the Y frame on the back instead of on top of it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a matter of preference - the SR-30 and SR-80 have precisely the same driver. The SR-30 frame is designed to maximize bass response, the SR-80 frame is designed to maximize headstage. 

 What's more interesting is that Audio-Technica electrets from the same era appear to have the same driver too - except they tucked the fiberglass pad under the Y frame on the back instead of on top of it._

 

Along with the better headstage/soundstage, I think the mids are slightly better with the SR-80 and it feels more "open" to me. Although the SR-80 bass and highs are slightly rolled off a little like the SR-3, somehow I suspect I may even like the SR-80 more if I was able to compare the SR-3 with them (based on short term audio memory).


----------



## padam

My friend is asking: he has an SRA-3S with an SR-5 and last time he tried to listen to it there was a huge drop in volume but no imbalance between the channels. He also had the the amp checked but it seemed to have no issues.

 Any idea what could go wrong? Thanks.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My friend is asking: he has an SRA-3S with an SR-5 and last time he tried to listen to it there was a huge drop in volume but no imbalance between the channels. He also had the the amp checked but it seemed to have no issues.

 Any idea what could go wrong? Thanks._

 

Try a different pair of normal-bias stax headphones with it to be sure it's not the amp. Or try the SR-5 with a different source. 

 The connections to the drivers in the SR-5 earcups can become corroded, but there would probably be a channel imbalance in that situation.


----------



## spritzer

Check the plug in circuit boards. They aren't gold plated so they corrode quite badly so a bad connection is possible.


----------



## ericj

Anybody want to suggest how it is that i can get a 120hz hum in my SR-001 simply by draping the cord over my mp3 player while it's plugged into the charger? 

 When the SR-001 isn't plugged into anything.


----------



## spritzer

I've come across something like this before yet don't know why it happens.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody want to suggest how it is that i can get a 120hz hum in my SR-001 simply by draping the cord over my mp3 player while it's plugged into the charger? 

 When the SR-001 isn't plugged into anything._

 

The headphone cable works as an antenna, I assume. I had a similar issue with a HD800 picking up hum from a desk lamp - connected to the amp and also when unconnected. I changed the lamp for another with less radiation.

 Worst case is not when you get audible effects as hum but when the audio signal is affected but there is no clear indication like hum, as high frequency signals that are inaudible but interferes with the audio signal.


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headphone cable works as an antenna, I assume. I had a similar issue with a HD800 picking up hum from a desk lamp - connected to the amp and also when unconnected. I changed the lamp for another with less radiation._

 

Well yeah, but 'stats have impedances mostly over 100kohms. The waves put off by the mp3 player shouldn't be all that powerful. 

 I'm guessing your lamp was other than incandescent - the DC circuits in CCFL and many compact halogen setups are very cheap and dirty, usually only rectifying on the upward swing of the wave. They can throw off a lot of noise.

 fwiw, this is why transitioning away from incandescent lighting is easier for the US than the UK (and maybe most of europe) - in the US, the power drop to a structure is 230v with neutral in the middle. About half the structure will be on the top half of that and about half on the bottom half. Thus, on average, for most structures, half of the lighting will be on one phase and half on the other, so the DC bias fed back to the power grid will be mostly if not completely cancelled out. 

 They have a bit of a problem in the UK because they don't split the phase at the structure, and every power customer with a lot of cheap CCFL lighting will be causing a DC bias.


----------



## padam

Anybody interested in an SRM-252A or SRM-252II? I want to buy an SR-202 but I don't have much use for the amp.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody interested in an SRM-252A or SRM-252II? I want to buy an SR-202 but I don't have much use for the amp._

 

If you are looking for new phones, Audiocubes2 sells the 202 separate from the amp.


----------



## Anders

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well yeah, but 'stats have impedances mostly over 100kohms. The waves put off by the mp3 player shouldn't be all that powerful. 

 I'm guessing your lamp was other than incandescent - the DC circuits in CCFL and many compact halogen setups are very cheap and dirty, usually only rectifying on the upward swing of the wave. They can throw off a lot of noise._

 

Yes, it was other than incandescent and I changed to incandescent. I suspect that buying expensive non-incandescent is no guarantee for the electrical quality and only for design and finish.

 So the humming Stax is a mystery, not uncommon when it is about cables. -
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 What you say about DC bias is worrying - are the new diode lights better?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you are looking for new phones, Audiocubes2 sells the 202 separate from the amp._

 

Woo Audio has a good price on them.

http://www.wooaudio.com/products/hea...tax/sr202.html


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Anders* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it was other than incandescent and I changed to incandescent. I suspect that buying expensive non-incandescent is no guarantee for the electrical quality and only for design and finish.

 So the humming Stax is a mystery, not uncommon when it is about cables. -
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What you say about DC bias is worrying - are the new diode lights better?_

 

I don't know that there are better DC lights yet or not. The bias issue is a bigger problem for the power company than anybody else.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woo Audio has a good price on them.

Woo Audio - STAX SR-202 Basic Open-Back Electrostatic Earspearkers_

 

Thanks, I may be able to get the whole set slightly less than that from the EU and definitely less than that from Japan 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 And the headphone would be taken apart anyway so warranty is unimportant.


----------



## tohenk2

I Imported my SRM600 & SR404LE from Japan (to Europe). At the time I could not find a EU-dealer who sold them, and the Stax-website stated that these limited editions were not to be sold outside Japan. But I now found a dealer in the Netherlands (Amsterdam) that sells them - for less than the amount I payed in total (brokerage, bank fees, shipping costs and EU-import taxes all add to the original pricing with Japanese taxes...)

 So for anyone who wants them via the official route in the EU: KNOKKi audio technologies amsterdam


----------



## ZarakiSan

So I've been thinking of getting an SR202 as well, and thinking of just getting the basic package. I don't want to spend too much on this game when I start out, so I'm wondering: Compared to an SR404LE and an SRM-007 which I've heard, will the combination strike me as similar?


----------



## Dinan

Just thought I would share and will post this to the 404LE thread too: 

 As an interesting data point, I just received a pair of 404LE from Elusive Disc in the 093X serial number range. I had these on order for about 4 months and they are out of the most current batch so it looks like STAX is almost done with production of the 1000 units depending on how many they do at a time. So maybe there are 50 pairs left that to be produced or maybe the last 50 were produced and sent to other countries and this was it. 

 My 5 month old pair that I got from HeadphoneAddict (also from Elusive Disc) is number 066X so they ran off about 325 units in that time period. Looks like maybe no more for the US market with a few floating around in other markets. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I plugged the new ones in to check them out quickly and noticed a rather large sonic difference with my other pair that has logged around 20 hours on top of what Larry put on them so maybe 70-75 hours total if I remember correctly so initial burn-in seems significant. I plan to cook this pair for a couple of hundred hours to see what happens. 

 I also inspected them VERY closely for any signs of production differences and found nothing. Both pairs were 100% consistent. 

 On a more positive note, it looks like they do have the SRM-600's available so I will look forward to feedback from anyone that has tried the combo compared to the SRM-007 and 006.


----------



## Michgelsen

There's a little comparison between the SRM-600 and the SRM-T1 a few pages back. The SRM-T1 should sound similar to or the same as an SRM-006T.


----------



## spritzer

The T1 (and all it's descendants) and the SRM-600 are very similar so any real improvements should be when you push the volume and the greater voltage capabilities of the ECC99 come into play. Also comparing a vintage Stax amp to a new one isn't a great idea unless you replace all the electrolytic caps first. I'm not talking about some vain audiophool upgrades but the caps do wear out with time and in a simple CRC PSU as Stax uses you will definitely notice a difference. Also adjusting the offset is vital, not only on the tube amps.


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As an interesting data point, I just received a pair of 404LE from Elusive Disc in the 093X serial number range. I had these on order for about 4 months and they are out of the most current batch so it looks like STAX is almost done with production of the 1000 units depending on how many they do at a time. So maybe there are 50 pairs left that to be produced or maybe the last 50 were produced and sent to other countries and this was it._

 

Yeah, my pair is 0931 which arrived a week or two ago after almost 3 months on order. I agree they must be done with production, if they are truly going to stick to 1000 pairs.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I plugged the new ones in to check them out quickly and noticed a rather large sonic difference with my other pair that has logged around 20 hours on top of what Larry put on them so maybe 70-75 hours total if I remember correctly so initial burn-in seems significant. I plan to cook this pair for a couple of hundred hours to see what happens. _

 

I am finding that my pair is improving with time. I asked if they require burn-in like good dynamics, and the consensus was they didn't, but I do notice an improvement as time goes on. 

 I am really loving these, especially in combo with the eXStatA. The bass and vocal clarity is amazing...


----------



## spritzer

The S/N's aren't a real indicator as to how many have been made as Stax doesn't follow any rule now like they did back in the day. That said there will only be 1000 units but not to worry, the SR-SC1 sounds very similar (from memory) as the 404LE.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just thought I would share and will post this to the 404LE thread too: 

 As an interesting data point, I just received a pair of 404LE from Elusive Disc in the 093X serial number range. I had these on order for about 4 months and they are out of the most current batch so it looks like STAX is almost done with production of the 1000 units depending on how many they do at a time. So maybe there are 50 pairs left that to be produced or maybe the last 50 were produced and sent to other countries and this was it. 

 My 5 month old pair that I got from HeadphoneAddict (also from Elusive Disc) is number 066X so they ran off about 325 units in that time period. Looks like maybe no more for the US market with a few floating around in other markets. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I plugged the new ones in to check them out quickly and noticed a rather large sonic difference with my other pair that has logged around 20 hours on top of what Larry put on them so maybe 70-75 hours total if I remember correctly so initial burn-in seems significant. I plan to cook this pair for a couple of hundred hours to see what happens. 

 I also inspected them VERY closely for any signs of production differences and found nothing. Both pairs were 100% consistent. 

 On a more positive note, it looks like they do have the SRM-600's available so I will look forward to feedback from anyone that has tried the combo compared to the SRM-007 and 006._

 

I received them on Sept 28 2009, so technically they are slightly less than 4 months old. I put about 70-72 hours on them before RMAF.

 What are the differences between the 100 hour pair and the zero hour pair? (still working on how to pay to buy mine back).


----------



## nsx_23

How would an SR-404 and an SRM1 (Not the MKII) rewired for 580V go together?


----------



## n3rdling

Can you just tell me if you want my amp or not? It should sound good, just as long as the builder knows what they're doing.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would an SR-404 and an SRM1 (Not the MKII) rewired for 580V go together?_

 

I bet few, if any, so far have heard one.
 But as mentioned earlier the SR-404 and SRM-1/MK2 Pro is a nice match, so chances are that the SRM-1 (you talk about) will match just as good.


----------



## Michgelsen

Question: were black versions of the original SRM-006t and SRM-007t, not the tII, ever produced? I do know that a black version of the SRM-717 exists, but I never saw a black SRM-006t or SRM-007t. Did anybody ever see one?


----------



## spritzer

Yes, both were made plus a black SRM-313


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question: were black versions of the original SRM-006t and SRM-007t, not the tII, ever produced? I do know that a black version of the SRM-717 exists, but I never saw a black SRM-006t or SRM-007t. Did anybody ever see one?_

 

Indeed!
 I owned a black SRM-007t for 2 1/2 year, and sold it through Head-Fi a year ago.

 Pictures:


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TimJo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am finding that my pair is improving with time. I asked if they require burn-in like good dynamics, and the consensus was they didn't, but I do notice an improvement as time goes on._

 

In an e-mail related to some problems that I've experienced with my staxes, a man from Stax USA mentioned that my omegas need about 500+ hours of burn-in...
 Most of stax users here claim that they don't feel any difference after burn-in but I think there is. I don't know if it's the headphones or the amp but there is a certain change.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed!
 I owned a black SRM-007t for 2 1/2 year, and sold it through Head-Fi a year ago._

 

Looks great! Thanks for the quick reply and pictures. I assume a black 006t was also an option then.
 Black Stax looks awesome. The sharp corners and rectangular buttons of older Stax kit look so cool and way better than the current rounded stuff, don't you think?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In an e-mail related to some problems that I've experienced with my staxes, a man from Stax USA mentioned that my omegas need about 500+ hours of burn-in...
 Most of stax users here claim that they don't feel any difference after burn-in but I think there is. I don't know if it's the headphones or the amp but there is a certain change._

 


 Based on burn-in experiences with my SR-001 and SR-404LE, I would have to say that I agree with this. It is more significant than many would leave you to believe. I need to go on a burn-in fest to find the real answer.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received them on Sept 28 2009, so technically they are slightly less than 4 months old. I put about 70-72 hours on them before RMAF.

 What are the differences between the 100 hour pair and the zero hour pair? (still working on how to pay to buy mine back)._

 

I stand correct on how many hours are on the original 404LE pair so this makes even more sense as I would call 100 hours the minimum threshold for burning something in before use. 

 On my system with the modded and well burned in 717, the difference is considerable in ALL musically significant areas. On a scale of 1-10 where the burned in 404LE is a solid 9 (I really like them), the fresh pair is a rather lackluster 3. Granted that they are fresh out of the box with truly no use at all. 

 I will start the burn-in today and I bet they improve dramatically in the first few hours as they settle in after shipping (this doesn't seem to help the sound of stats much).


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I do know that a black version of the SRM-717 exists_

 

I was pretty sure this existed but had never heard reference to or seen one. Now I have to have one!


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was pretty sure this existed but had never heard reference to or seen one. Now I have to have one! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've seen at least one in pictures for sale, the exist and look pretty great. They seem harder to find then the SR-007BK.


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, I saw one too for sale very recently. I bid on it, but unfortunately it was sold to someone else. Looked awesome.
Here's a picture of one.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In an e-mail related to some problems that I've experienced with my staxes, a man from Stax USA mentioned that my omegas need about 500+ hours of burn-in...
 Most of stax users here claim that they don't feel any difference after burn-in but I think there is. I don't know if it's the headphones or the amp but there is a certain change._

 

Certainly my 007A's sounded poor out of the box, but they seemed to settle in within about 1/2 hour. I can't be sure about later burn in because I experimented with various mods during this time.


----------



## Asr

No offense to anyone intended but are folks seriously suggesting that electrostatic headphones burn in? You guys did go to school and learned about physics, right?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Harsh dude


----------



## Robot Metal

What is the impedance like with the SR-Lambda+SRD/7? Getting a Mini3 to hold me off until I can afford a better amp. (And I can also use a portable amp to use with other headphones...) The gain options are 1, 3, 5, 8, with 5 being ideal for HD650/HD800.


----------



## n3rdling

You need an amp with speaker outputs if you are to use a transformer such as the SRD7...I haven't heard of a mini3 with speaker outs, but if they do exist ignore me.

 500 posts, a milestone in my audio career!


----------



## Robot Metal

Well, I was going to splice some wires...


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No offense to anyone intended but are folks seriously suggesting that electrostatic headphones burn in? You guys did go to school and learned about physics, right?_

 

This is HF, reality has no place here...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need an amp with speaker outputs if you are to use a transformer such as the SRD7...I haven't heard of a mini3 with speaker outs, but if they do exist ignore me.

 500 posts, a milestone in my audio career! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You are right, a speaker amp is needed that outputs some watts into 8 ohm. If you are using a B22 or M3 as a portable amp then that would work but a mini3 will not.


----------



## Robot Metal

Alright, thanks.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks great! Thanks for the quick reply and pictures. I assume a black 006t was also an option then._

 

I certainly believe so.
 And this once looks like one -> http://www.on-off-hifi.de/bilder/shop/KHR00247.jpg

  Quote:


 Black Stax looks awesome. The sharp corners and rectangular buttons of older Stax kit look so cool and way better than the current rounded stuff, don't you think? 
 

Agree! I prefer the looks of the SRM-006t and SRM-007t over the newer MK2 and A models.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is HF, reality has no place here...._

 







 you can say that again..

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

So, how do you explain Dinan's observation that my old 100 hour SR-404LE sound different/better from the brand new pair that he just received? Doesn't the tension of the Mylar change slightly over the first few days of use, which could affect the sound?

 I was pretty sure the excessive mids of my O2 Mk2 improved a little over the first 100-200 hours, but not much else changed. And during that time I wasn't listening every day and simply getting used to the sound; and I used comparisons to my HE60 as a baseline of how far forward the mids were in relation, and the gap narrowed over time. However, it was still bad enough to need to do the ear pad spring mod after that, which further helped and made them enjoyable.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, how do you explain Dinan's observation that my old 100 hour SR-404LE sound different/better from the brand new pair that he just received? Doesn't the tension of the Mylar change slightly over the first few days of use, which could affect the sound?

 I was pretty sure the excessive mids of my O2 Mk2 improved a little over the first 100-200 hours, but not much else changed. And during that time I wasn't listening every day and simply getting used to the sound; and I used comparisons to my HE60 as a baseline of how far forward the mids were in relation, and the gap narrowed over time. However, it was still bad enough to need to do the ear pad spring mod after that, which further helped and made them enjoyable._

 


 Manufacturing variance?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, how do you explain Dinan's observation that my old 100 hour SR-404LE sound different/better from the brand new pair that he just received? Doesn't the tension of the Mylar change slightly over the first few days of use, which could affect the sound?_

 

There are any number of possible explanations based on your n of 1 experience, of which so-called burn-in is only one. Manufacturing variance, as noted above, confirmation bias, human error, etc. could be at work.

 EDIT: And this thread used to be one of the last places on this site relatively free of this debate. I encourage people to not let it devolve as have so many other threads.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are any number of possible explanations based on your n of 1 experience, of which so-called burn-in is only one. Manufacturing variance, as noted above, confirmation bias, human error, etc. could be at work.

 EDIT: And this thread used to be one of the last places on this site relatively free of this debate. I encourage people to not let it devolve as have so many other threads._

 

So we must suppress facts just to keep the thread clean of something that _some_ people don't _believe_ in?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So we must suppress facts just to keep the thread clean of something that some people don't believe in?_

 

No, it's just like Apple

 There's a thread for that!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So we must suppress facts just to keep the thread clean of something that some people don't believe in?_

 

What facts? I see lots and lots of opinions and conclusory statements. But no facts. And les is absolutely right; there's a thread for it anyway. Not every thread at Head-Fi needs to include discussions about the "need" to burn in a headphone for anywhere from 50-10,000 hours. Enough is enough.


----------



## brat

Electrostats burn-in (if exists) must be a detached thread in the high end forum because everything concerning electrostatic headphones is posted here.
 Even threads about replacing pads of electrostatic headphones.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, how do you explain Dinan's observation that my old 100 hour SR-404LE sound different/better from the brand new pair that he just received? Doesn't the tension of the Mylar change slightly over the first few days of use, which could affect the sound?_

 

After running in for a day and a half now, the sonics differences between the "old" and new pair are closing rapidly. 

 Even if you can argue that there is burn-in differences in the transducers (I don't buy that but some do), the break-in of the cable alone should be significant ESPECIALLY as it is silver if my memory hasn't failed me. 

 My guess is that when the new pair has 75-100 hours, they will sound the same.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What facts? I see lots and lots of opinions and conclusory statements. But no facts._

 

Please, give me the list of *facts* that is allowed to be discussed in this thread!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Electrostats burn-in (if exists) must be a detached thread in the high end forum because everything concerning electrostatic headphones is posted here.
 Even threads about replacing pads of electrostatic headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not so. This just happens to be the main Stax thread. There are other threads re 'stats elsewhere. And, in my humble opinion, the debate about burn-in has been sufficiently beaten to death--regardless of dynamic or stat--that it does not warrant additional debate in this otherwise extremely informative thread.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please, give me the list of *facts* that is allowed to be discussed in this thread!_

 

Huh? Facts are facts. What appears to confuse you is the difference between fact and opinion. You are not alone in your confusion.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I saw one too for sale very recently. I bid on it, but unfortunately it was sold to someone else. Looked awesome.
Here's a picture of one._

 

DROOL! Must have one!


----------



## The Monkey

The black Stax amps look great. I really liked my 007tii in black. Actually, I really liked the way it sounded, too.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not so. This just happens to be the main Stax thread. There are other threads re 'stats elsewhere. And, in my humble opinion, the debate about burn-in has been sufficiently beaten to death--regardless of dynamic or stat--that it does not warrant additional debate in this otherwise extremely informative thread._

 

It's just your _humble opinion_.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's just your humble opinion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Absolutely. We all have a hand in how this community evolves. If you're happy with discussions about burn-in, so be it, you and others who think similarly (and who apparently make up the majority here) will continue to engage in such discussions. However, for those who don't care for it (an increasing minority it appears), I offer the simple observation that it doesn't have to be that way.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After running in for a day and a half now, the sonics differences between the "old" and new pair are closing rapidly. 

 Even if you can argue that there is burn-in differences in the transducers (I don't buy that but some do), the break-in of the cable alone should be significant ESPECIALLY as it is silver if my memory hasn't failed me. 

 My guess is that when the new pair has 75-100 hours, they will sound the same._

 

I don't know what needs more burn-in than something else, but I agree that at 100 hours they should sound the same because they'll have the same number of hours (not 10,000 hours as Monkey implies to make it look more ridiculous). It bugs the hell out of me that I have in the past compared a new and used headphone and found differences (HFI-780 and Grado HF-2), and now Dinan has found the same with the 404LE, yet people tell us it's all a pigment of our imagination. 

 I'm not saying all headphones need burn-in, because the HD600 hardly change at all with 200 hours. The O2 Mk2 only had a slight reduction in mids in relation to bass and treble after 200 hours. The HD800 only very slightly filled out, and both the HD800 and HE-5 slightly smoothed out with 200 hours. 

 But, I think that what Dinan is saying about his new SR-404LE sounding different out of the box, and now changing after 36 hours in relation to a 100 hour pair of 404LE is reasonable and likely true. (although I suspect the rating them a 3/10 vs 9/10 is a little exaggerated)


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Absolutely. We all have a hand in how this community evolves. If you're happy with discussions about burn-in, so be it, you and others who think similarly (and who apparently make up the majority here) will continue to engage in such discussions. However, for those who don't care for it (an increasing minority it appears), I offer the simple observation that it doesn't have to be that way._

 

Let's finish the debate about the need of burn-in debates.
 I think that we must share and discuss all our observations. This is constructive and usefull fot all beacuse many _opinions_ and _observations_ lead us to determine facts. Without opinions and a discussion about burn-in we'll never know if it's a fact


----------



## spritzer

The mylar tension will not change with use, simply suggesting something like that shows an utter misunderstanding of the forces at work here and the material properties of mylar. I once thought that maybe there were minuscule wrinkles in the mylar which ironed out (which I had witnessed on scopes) but they were my own doing since at the time I didn't know how to properly heat treat the diaphragms. 

 Second bit, this is Stax we are talking about, not Sennheiser. There is zero variation from unit to unit if they haven't been tampered with and the earpads/damping is up to spec. You can take a Lambda Pro and compare one of the earliest units to one of the latest (which I've done a number of times as with many other models) and they sound identical. Same goes for the new phones. 

 As for the whole burn in crap, I started out a believer but as I've gained more experience I can see it for the crap it truly is. To think that a CDP needs 500 hours to charge the capacitors is just mad or that a headphone driver will need hundreds of hours to "loosen up". What is very real is how we perceive sound and the simple fact that a prolonged exposure is needed to truly gauge how a system sound. It simply can not be taken all in in a 5 minute listening session. 

 The other aspect is what bothers me most about HF and that is the absurd idea that price has any bearing on performance. Gear that looks impressive and has a lot of toobz must sound good. One has to only look at the SP fiasco and the multitude of vendors peddling inferior crap at exuberant prices heralded in reviews as the second coming. Hey, stick a V-cap in there and a stepped attenuator and it must be good. 

 As for cables, of course they are a factor. If they didn't then some cables wouldn't be able to make amps explode and roll off frequencies audibly. The real question here is, are the cables better or just different and why so. I've spent a fortune on cables over the years (Stealth Indra, Valhalla etc.), hell my first system was fully wired with silver, but now I own just a handful of cheap Kimber PC's and some old IC's which I never use. What happened to me was an understanding of electronics and just how absurd it is to buy cables for thousands when I could just as well build a beefier PSU or get rid of any and all electrolytic caps.


----------



## n3rdling

Great post, as usual, spritzer.

 If anybody wants a pretty easy to follow primer on how our mind works with regards to audio, I think this video is really nice:
YouTube - Audio Myths Workshop
 I wish everybody who registered here was forced to at least watch the first 10 minutes of this video. They don't have to agree with it, but I bet there'd be a ton less ridiculous "reviews" around here.
 Also, saying that a silver cable "especially" needs time to "break in" might be the worst thing I've ever read on this site.


----------



## brat

I'm far from audio alchemy BUT there are phenomenons that I can't deny and are obvious to me - the (good) cable direction, (some) component burn-in, (good) power cable significance...
 Another widely discussed phenomenons I can't perceive such as absolute superiority of the tubes...
 I don't know if the electrostats burn-in but I'm shure that my stax system has changed it's sound in the course of time. I see there is no explanation for now.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mylar tension will not change with use, simply suggesting something like that shows an utter misunderstanding of the forces at work here and the material properties of mylar. I once thought that maybe there were minuscule wrinkles in the mylar which ironed out (which I had witnessed on scopes) but they were my own doing since at the time I didn't know how to properly heat treat the diaphragms. 

 Second bit, this is Stax we are talking about, not Sennheiser. There is zero variation from unit to unit if they haven't been tampered with and the earpads/damping is up to spec. You can take a Lambda Pro and compare one of the earliest units to one of the latest (which I've done a number of times as with many other models) and they sound identical. Same goes for the new phones. 

 As for the whole burn in crap, I started out a believer but as I've gained more experience I can see it for the crap it truly is. To think that a CDP needs 500 hours to charge the capacitors is just mad or that a headphone driver will need hundreds of hours to "loosen up". What is very real is how we perceive sound and the simple fact that a prolonged exposure is needed to truly gauge how a system sound. It simply can not be taken all in in a 5 minute listening session. 

 The other aspect is what bothers me most about HF and that is the absurd idea that price has any bearing on performance. Gear that looks impressive and has a lot of toobz must sound good. One has to only look at the SP fiasco and the multitude of vendors peddling inferior crap at exuberant prices heralded in reviews as the second coming. Hey, stick a V-cap in there and a stepped attenuator and it must be good. 

 As for cables, of course they are a factor. If they didn't then some cables wouldn't be able to make amps explode and roll off frequencies audibly. The real question here is, are the cables better or just different and why so. I've spent a fortune on cables over the years (Stealth Indra, Valhalla etc.), hell my first system was fully wired with silver, but now I own just a handful of cheap Kimber PC's and some old IC's which I never use. What happened to me was an understanding of electronics and just how absurd it is to buy cables for thousands when I could just as well build a beefier PSU or get rid of any and all electrolytic caps._

 

That does NOT explain the changes heard when comparing a new HF-2 to a used HF-2 (or SR-404LE), or the changes that occur when not taking the time to acclimate to a particular piece of gear from start to finish. 

 Also, I asked if tension changes were an issue, because of the postings you made about that. I forgot that it was in regards to you re-building your own drivers, and not about the stock Stax drivers. That's all I have to say on the matter.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No offense to anyone intended but are folks seriously suggesting that electrostatic headphones burn in? You guys did go to school and learned about physics, right?_

 

Neither my high-school nor college taught about electrostatic drivers. For that matter neither did the Dept. of Electrical Engineering I did a post-doc in although they did make these items for various purposes. What I did learn there was that the performance of such things was to be determined by emprical investigation, not on assumptions about how such things ought to work.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mylar tension will not change with use, simply suggesting something like that shows an utter misunderstanding of the forces at work here and the material properties of mylar. I once thought that maybe there were minuscule wrinkles in the mylar which ironed out (which I had witnessed on scopes) but they were my own doing since at the time I didn't know how to properly heat treat the diaphragms. 

 Second bit, this is Stax we are talking about, not Sennheiser. There is zero variation from unit to unit if they haven't been tampered with and the earpads/damping is up to spec. You can take a Lambda Pro and compare one of the earliest units to one of the latest (which I've done a number of times as with many other models) and they sound identical. Same goes for the new phones. 

 As for the whole burn in crap, I started out a believer but as I've gained more experience I can see it for the crap it truly is. To think that a CDP needs 500 hours to charge the capacitors is just mad or that a headphone driver will need hundreds of hours to "loosen up". What is very real is how we perceive sound and the simple fact that a prolonged exposure is needed to truly gauge how a system sound. It simply can not be taken all in in a 5 minute listening session. 

 The other aspect is what bothers me most about HF and that is the absurd idea that price has any bearing on performance. Gear that looks impressive and has a lot of toobz must sound good. One has to only look at the SP fiasco and the multitude of vendors peddling inferior crap at exuberant prices heralded in reviews as the second coming. Hey, stick a V-cap in there and a stepped attenuator and it must be good. 

 As for cables, of course they are a factor. If they didn't then some cables wouldn't be able to make amps explode and roll off frequencies audibly. The real question here is, are the cables better or just different and why so. I've spent a fortune on cables over the years (Stealth Indra, Valhalla etc.), hell my first system was fully wired with silver, but now I own just a handful of cheap Kimber PC's and some old IC's which I never use. What happened to me was an understanding of electronics and just how absurd it is to buy cables for thousands when I could just as well build a beefier PSU or get rid of any and all electrolytic caps._

 

I am glad to see that you can change your opinions. It seems like it was just yesterday that you were singing the praises of silver IC's. But if you acknowledge that your ears were wrong about that you should not be dogmatic about your current opinions.

 My budget for ic's maxes out at about $100/pair and only in what seem to be sensitive applications.

 Whether or not Stax phones break in over a long period, I cannot say. I have had some new phones, 003 and 007's which sounded bad right out of the box and which took about 1/2 hours or more to sound good. Why I don't know, contact problems, moisture? 

 However I do not find it implausible that some aspects of the drivers could change with use. Frankly the opposite seems inherently implausible, that mylar would not stretch with use or pull away from its glue over time.

 Possibly someone will be able to put on a demonstration of an unbroken in and a well used set of Stax at a Canjam so that we can decide for ourselves?

 That said, I agree that Stax drivers seem to hold up pretty well over time, even over 2-3 decades.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am glad to see that you can change your opinions. It seems like it was just yesterday that you were singing the praises of silver IC's. But if you acknowledge that your ears were wrong about that you should not be dogmatic about your current opinions.

 My budget for ic's maxes out at about $100/pair and only in what seem to be sensitive applications._

 

Ohh I still use silver and with wire expensive enough to make most cable makers cry, custom ordered PC-OCC 6N silver wire. I got it for next to nothing through a local friend though and it's a pain to use but makes for some truly transparent cables. 

 What got to me in the end, besides the lack of real any improvements high-end cables can offer, was just how unwieldy they are. I can easily wind my IC's around two fingers without damaging them so why can't all IC's be like that. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whether or not Stax phones break in over a long period, I cannot say. I have had some new phones, 003 and 007's which sounded bad right out of the box and which took about 1/2 hours or more to sound good. Why I don't know, contact problems, moisture? 

 However I do not find it implausible that some aspects of the drivers could change with use. Frankly the opposite seems inherently implausible, that mylar would not stretch with use or pull away from its glue over time.

 Possibly someone will be able to put on a demonstration of an unbroken in and a well used set of Stax at a Canjam so that we can decide for ourselves?

 That said, I agree that Stax drivers seem to hold up pretty well over time, even over 2-3 decades._

 

Why Stax headphones improve after plugging is simple, when they are shipped the resistive coating on the diaphragm attracts static electricity so it takes some time to break that down. This can also happen if the headphones are sitting around for a while. Back in the day when I had around 50 sets here my SR-007 didn't get much use and often sat for months unattended. One morning I reached for them and they sound like ****, no dynamics and just a mushy wall of sound. After running them for an hour or so they were back to normal. Was this burn in on a 4 year old set or just a parasitic charge sitting on the diaphragms because I didn't discharge them before putting the headphones away?

 If the glue failed over time then the film would loose its tension and you'd just get a garbled mess of distortion from the phones so this isn't the case. Mylar in speakers does tend to age but direct exposure to sunlight is a major contributing factor here plus dust and other environmental factors.


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the whole burn in crap, I started out a believer but as I've gained more experience I can see it for the crap it truly is. To think that a CDP needs 500 hours to charge the capacitors is just mad or that a headphone driver will need hundreds of hours to "loosen up". What is very real is how we perceive sound and the simple fact that a prolonged exposure is needed to truly gauge how a system sound. It simply can not be taken all in in a 5 minute listening session._

 

I have had gear go through distinctly weird tonal changes, briefly at least, during periods of use. Some experimentation and cross-referencing with others and it seems to be the heat generated with use, but other people heard the same things as I was at the same hours. Some components have sound a bit better after they have been on a while and are nice and warm, compared to when they are cold.

 What's most useful is, when, as you have done, a proper explanation for what is going on is provided. Troublesome though is when multiple reasons are possibly responsible. When I discussed my experience with HF-2s changing with use, it was suggested that the changes were in my head only. While I have found myself adapting to sound signatures, I've also been able to compare a new and well-used pair and the sonic differences, as well as the changes in my feeling about them. Overall, if the term "burn-in" was abolished and replaced with the individual factors that affect gear from new (if any at all) then that would be best IMO.

 I guess we're lucky that Stax are very consistent in their manufacturing, if what you said about Lamdas is true across all their 'stats. My $0.02 anyway.


----------



## Elephas

Regarding gear burn-in, I don't think it's a big deal. If it is there, it will take care of itself sooner or later. Anyway, I myself experience variability in my listening experiences. Try relaxing and enjoying some nice jazz after you've just had a big fight with the wife, I bet it won't be as enjoyable as after a good session under the sheets! Even the SR-007 can sound like crap!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...they sound like ****, no dynamics and just a mushy wall of sound._

 

Ah-ha, gotcha! So you finally admit that the SR-007 can sound like ****!

 Now we need a poll about what **** means. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anybody wants a pretty easy to follow primer on how our mind works with regards to audio, I think this video is really nice:
YouTube - Audio Myths Workshop_

 

This thread isn't really the place for discussion about this video, so I'll just mention a few thoughts after watching the first 10 minutes.

 I agree with a lot of what they're saying about our brains, audio memory, expectations/placebo, malleability and fallibility of recall, the power of suggestion, etc.

 But there were at least a couple of points I disagreed with. First, most or all of us listen with headphones, so the explanation about different listening positions and room acoustic effects is not really relevant. 

 Second, not all changes (to more expensive cables, installing a tweak, etc.) are positive or for the "better." Making evaluations and comparisons over a long period of time also reduces the chances of our being influenced by various factors, and not just succumbing placebo, wishful thinking, hearing what we want to hear, etc. And even if it is only psychological, it is a real belief that there is a difference. If I believe something, by definition it is "the truth" to me. But even so, I'm not about to buy a jar of pebbles for $$$. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think that listening to music is an experience that mainly involves the brain, and as such it will be an emotional and subjective one that will affect our choice of and the way we use our audio gear.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But, I think that what Dinan is saying about his new SR-404LE sounding different out of the box, and now changing after 36 hours in relation to a 100 hour pair of 404LE is reasonable and likely true. (although I suspect the rating them a 3/10 vs 9/10 is a little exaggerated)_

 

I'm not getting sucked too far into any break-in argument because I know what 20 years of experience has taught me and I don't need to argue that. People are free to believe what they wish as it is a free world. It was not my intent to start a debate or discussion, just point out the considerable differences between a new and run-in pair. 

 The 3/10 v. 9/10 comment was FRESH out of the box and just delivered. Based on what I heard from the fresh pair, I would never have recommended them, bought them, or touched them with a 10' pole if that was my first and final experience with them. They were very rough and not very pleasant to listen to, especially up top. Now at 48 hours, they are turning into the 404LE that I know and love. No big surprise to me here, just typical break-in on any piece of audio gear and some require it more than others.


----------



## brat

A burn-in discussion is burning up...


----------



## ri_toast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great post, as usual, spritzer.

 If anybody wants a pretty easy to follow primer on how our mind works with regards to audio, I think this video is really nice:
YouTube - Audio Myths Workshop
 I wish everybody who registered here was forced to at least watch the first 10 minutes of this video. They don't have to agree with it, but I bet there'd be a ton less ridiculous "reviews" around here.
 Also, saying that a silver cable "especially" needs time to "break in" might be the worst thing I've ever read on this site. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

that was a very good view of audio myths. thank you for linking to it. 
 music as a rule is generally an emotional response. listening rooms, standing waves etc make me so happy that i'm a headphone fanatic and don't need to deal with all of that on top of what i already perceive.


----------



## mobbaddict

I need more experimentation but i feel my second hand Lambda Nova sounds bright when i leave it unplugged from the amp, even for only a day. It was really a love/hate relationship for days and days until i realized that. These days i think it sounds much smoother. So i'd tend to agree with spritzer's explanation, i think it's a true thing about electrostats.
 I'm not sure about amp warm up but i noticed that old amps like the T1 have a preheat function. Maybe Stax fixed the issue since then?


----------



## green0153

Great post,will save a lot of money to someone!


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great post, as usual, spritzer.

 If anybody wants a pretty easy to follow primer on how our mind works with regards to audio, I think this video is really nice:
YouTube - Audio Myths Workshop
 I wish everybody who registered here was forced to at least watch the first 10 minutes of this video. They don't have to agree with it, but I bet there'd be a ton less ridiculous "reviews" around here.
 Also, saying that a silver cable "especially" needs time to "break in" might be the worst thing I've ever read on this site. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Bullseye

Amen to both. 
 EDIT: Except the cable stuff mentioned by spritzer which is not correct.

 Great video. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great post, as usual, spritzer.

 If anybody wants a pretty easy to follow primer on how our mind works with regards to audio, I think this video is really nice:
YouTube - Audio Myths Workshop
 I wish everybody who registered here was forced to at least watch the first 10 minutes of this video. They don't have to agree with it, but I bet there'd be a ton less ridiculous "reviews" around here.
 Also, saying that a silver cable "especially" needs time to "break in" might be the worst thing I've ever read on this site. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need more experimentation but i feel my second hand Lambda Nova sounds bright when i leave it unplugged from the amp, even for only a day. It was really a love/hate relationship for days and days until i realized that. These days i think it sounds much smoother. So i'd tend to agree with spritzer's explanation, i think it's a true thing about electrostats.
 I'm not sure about amp warm up but i noticed that old amps like the T1 have a preheat function. Maybe Stax fixed the issue since then?_

 

I tend to agree. I leave my phones plugged in even when not turned on and it seems that they sound better that way. If I have to remove the phones from the amp, I short out the pins to try to discharge any charge built up on the drivers. 

 I think we have been using the terms "parasitic charge" and "electret effect" for this problem.


----------



## paaj

The preheat function is still working on my preheatbuttonless T1W, it's a first small warm up to prolong tube life by not having the full power in an instant. It is silent for about 10 seconds before sound comes through.


----------



## mobbaddict

edstrelow: yeah i can feel this charge when i unplugg the headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So you keep your fingers on the pins while unplugging them, right?
 Thanks for the input paaj.


----------



## Dinan

At 100 hours of use on the new pair, they now sound identical to Larry's 100 hour pair. No big surprise to me as this is just what I expected when I made my original comment. 

 Just thought I would report back. 

 BTW, I always unplug my stats and short the pins when I done listening.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, I always unplug my stats and short the pins when I done listening._

 

Why?


----------



## mobbaddict

Sorry but i can't figure out what "short the pins" means?


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry but i can't figure out what "short the pins" means? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think they just mean that after you unplug them, place your finger over the ends of the pins to allow your skin to drain the charges.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry but i can't figure out what "short the pins" means? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Use fingers to tap the pins of the 5-pin plug. Hence shortcut between them and probably discharge the transducers.


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At 100 hours of use on the new pair, they now sound identical to Larry's 100 hour pair. No big surprise to me as this is just what I expected when I made my original comment. 

 Just thought I would report back. 

 BTW, I always unplug my stats and short the pins when I done listening._

 

Not to add flames to the previous fire that seems to be under control now, my 404LE's did seem to improve over the first week as well. To be honest, the first day or two I owned them I was somewhat disappointed, ready to return to dynamics. They are fantastic now, and I haven't listened to my Beyers for weeks. Even if it was all in my head, like many would believe, something did change during those initial days.

 FWIW, I leave my pair plugged into my eXStatA all of the time, whereas at first, I would plug and unplug them each time. Maybe this is what accounts for the change in sound???


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why?_

 

A couple of reasons: 

 I will not necessarily be listening to the same pair next time around and like to keep them bagged when not in use to keep the dust off of them. This is easier to do with the cord nicely (and somewhat anally) rolled up. So when I unplug them, I touch the pins with my finger to discharge them as a matter of habit. 

 They will actually stay charged for quite a while unplugged if not discharged but when plugged into the amp, the amp and stats discharge pretty quickly when powered off.


----------



## Hopstretch

I'm enjoying both the O2s and Lambda Pros very much with the 007t. Looking forward to getting some 404LE and an Exstata in here over the next month or so. Down the rabbit hole!


----------



## n3rdling

Man you've been doing a ton of upgrading lately


----------



## Dinan

According to the STAX website, the 404LE production run is officially finished and sold out. We pretty much new this to be the case but now it is "official". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Export products

 I just put my extra pair up for sale in the forums as I don't really need 2 pairs and so that someone else can have a chance to play with them. That and I have spent WAY too much money lately.


----------



## hipcat

Just got my sr-34's in today hooked them up for a quick listen and wow they sound good! Compared them to my d5000's (which I love) and they were close the d5000's
 got the bass but the sr-34's got the clear realistic sound. My son even liked the sr-34's over the d5000's . I really just got these to see what the stax sound was like and i'm glad I did. I'm really interested to hear what more expensive stax's sound like! So what would be the next step up from these be.What phones could I upgrade to and use the srd-4 adapter? Any advice would be appreciated .


----------



## Lillethor

After having compared the STAX Lambda Nova Signature (new ear pads) with SR-404, I am not convinced that the SR-404 is an improvement, at least not in combination with SRM-006t. I get deeper bass and more relaxed midrange with the LNS. Any one else compared these to earspeakers?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After having compared the STAX Lambda Nova Signature (new ear pads) with SR-404, I am not convinced that the SR-404 is an improvement, at least not in combination with SRM-006t. I get deeper bass and more relaxed midrange with the LNS. Any one else compared these to earspeakers?_

 

Welcome to Head-Fi. You are not alone in your opinion. I happen to like the SR-404, but I liked the Lambda Signature better. If you search this thread, I think you'll find that folks prefer a lot of other Stax phones over the 404.


----------



## spritzer

Same here, the LNS is a better headphone to these ears. The SR-404 drivers come into their own in a Sigma chassis but a stock SR-404 is lacking in many ways.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After having compared the STAX Lambda Nova Signature (new ear pads) with SR-404, I am not convinced that the SR-404 is an improvement, at least not in combination with SRM-006t. I get deeper bass and more relaxed midrange with the LNS. Any one else compared these to earspeakers?_

 

I never heard the 404 but i bought the LNS because of this. It's nice to see you spotted the differences without being aware of them in the first place


----------



## edstrelow

I don't know about the Lambda Nova Signature vs the 404 butI do have the orginal Signature. It is a good phone although I prefer the 404.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 However all consideration of Lambdas should consider the effect of the foam backing Stax used. A few months back, when I tried to replace the back foam in my Signatures I discovered that the new foam made them sound like crap. I subsequently removed the back foam of the 404 with and found similar advantages. By back foam I mean do not mean the foam between the ear and the driver, but the foam in the back side of the driver.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/

 Two points come up from this.

 Firstly, any Lambda may sound better witout back foam.

 Secondly either Stax used different grades and densities of foam at different times and/or the older foams became more acoustically transparent as they aged and deteriorated and the phones they are in changed their sonic signatures, probably for the better.

 At any rate it is not that hard to remove the back foam and replace it if your prefer.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know about the Lambda Nova Signature vs the 404 butI do have the orginal Signature. It is a good phone although I prefer the 404.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 However all consideration of Lambdas should consider the effect of the foam backing Stax used. A few months back, when I tried to replace the back foam in my Signatures I discovered that the new foam made them sound like crap. I subsequently removed the back foam of the 404 with and found similar advantages. By back foam I mean do not mean the foam between the ear and the driver, but the foam in the back side of the driver.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/

 Two points come up from this.

 Firstly, any Lambda may sound better witout back foam.

 Secondly either Stax used different grades and densities of foam at different times and/or the older foams became more acoustically transparent as they aged and deteriorated and the phones they are in changed their sonic signatures, probably for the better.

 At any rate it is not that hard to remove the back foam and replace it if your prefer._

 

Blutarsky and I compared his de-foamed SR-Lambda to my stock ones, and there were small differences. His modded pair were a little more transparent and open in the mids and highs, but his bass was sloppier and more poorly controlled, especially as the volume went up. The differences were not huge but they were easily noticeable. 

 I liked them both ways, but I'd really like my bass with his mids and highs. In the end, I decided not to mod my Lambda for now. If I need something more open and transparent I'll just grab my O2 or HE60 (or Jade).


----------



## spritzer

Please allow me to introduce the ESX: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











 It's finally up and running though not 100% finished as I still have to play with transformers as phase splitters for SE use. Tubes are four Sylvania 7n7's (with loctal sockets) driving four SED EL34's. Most of the resistors are PRP 9372 audio grade with a few Riken, Mills, Caddock and Kiwame in crucial spots. Coupling caps are Mundorf Supreme. Full internal pics next time I open it up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for the sound, it's no BH but not bad at all. The FR isn't as linear as the BH, the bass extension is lacking under very demanding circumstances and it lacks the sheer focus of amps like the BH and the T2.


----------



## padam

Very niiice! Would it have better synergy with the 'old-school' phones such as Lambda Signature or HE60? Or is this more or less dependent from the tubes used?


----------



## spritzer

It's more a function of design. A plate resistor is no substitute for a proper CCS when it comes to delivering power into any load. With headphones which aren't as resolving/demanding as the SR-007 then this is less apparent but I haven't heard an ESP that didn't benefit from a TOTL amp like the BH/T2 even if the amp did them no favors by uncovering things which really should have stayed hidden.


----------



## padam

So even for an SR-003 I need at least a BH otherwise I will always miss something


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please allow me to introduce the ESX: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











 It's finally up and running though not 100% finished as I still have to play with transformers as phase splitters for SE use. Tubes are four Sylvania 7n7's (with loctal sockets) driving four SED EL34's. Most of the resistors are PRP 9372 audio grade with a few Riken, Mills, Caddock and Kiwame in crucial spots. Coupling caps are Mundorf Supreme. Full internal pics next time I open it up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for the sound, it's no BH but not bad at all. The FR isn't as linear as the BH, the bass extension is lacking under very demanding circumstances and it lacks the sheer focus of amps like the BH and the T2._

 

NICE! You've completely de-stupified it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How does it compare to the eXStatA?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Blutarsky and I compared his de-foamed SR-Lambda to my stock ones, and there were small differences. His modded pair were a little more transparent and open in the mids and highs, but his bass was sloppier and more poorly controlled, especially as the volume went up. The differences were not huge but they were easily noticeable. 

 I liked them both ways, but I'd really like my bass with his mids and highs. In the end, I decided not to mod my Lambda for now. If I need something more open and transparent I'll just grab my O2 or HE60 (or Jade)._

 

That's interesting. So far most people who have tried getting rid of the foam report the greater openess but I haven't heard an original low bias Lambda similarly modded. Didn't this model have mineral wool backing instead of foam?

 I didn't notice any change in the bass of the 404 or signature other than indirectly because the midrange declined, so there appeared to be more bass and some treble. The big plus though was the elimination of the honkiness of the 404. The original Lambda Signature on the other hand was totally unlistenable, when I put in new foam, with a very harsh mid-range.


----------



## padam

Yes it has mineral wool so the difference is much bigger in that case.


----------



## pompon

I own O2 mk1 ... and I have 007tii (tube).

 I don't see often that amp ... 717/727 is better or just different flavor ?
 With the oo7tii, I like the sound but it's a bit soft (dynamic could be better) when I compare them to my dynamic setup.


----------



## padam

The O2 is hard to drive so it likes to have more power.
 340V vs 450V of RMS voltage on the 717 -> more power leads to more extended highs and lows with better dynamics, the 007tii might have slighly better mids but the 717 is considered to be better overall.

 SRM-717 is considered to be better than the SRM-727II where they fiddled with the output stage and it didn't do too much good to the sound(search this thread for more info).


----------



## The Monkey

I like the 007tii, but I felt it just didn't have enough oomph with the O2 mk1 (and mk2). The KGSS DX fixes that.


----------



## pompon

Anything better than Stax 717 (for solid state amp) ?

 A10, Woo Wes seem nice but they not SS ...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pompon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_High end amp are all tubes ... Nothing better than 717 for stax as SS amp ?_

 

I'm not sure I follow you here, would you mind clarifying what you mean?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the 007tii, but I felt it just didn't have enough oomph with the O2 mk1 (and mk2). The KGSS DX fixes that._

 

Are they still doing a DX version of the KGSS? There isn't anything that I could find about available upgrades on the Headamp site.


----------



## The Monkey

My guess is probably not, but you should contact Justin directly.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_NICE! You've completely de-stupified it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 How does it compare to the eXStatA?_

 

It should be equal to (or more likely surpass) the WES so you can extrapolate from there. This circuit is mostly DC coupled where the WES is not and the parts quality here is much better coupled with a very stiff PSU. So much so in fact the amp will continue to play for good while (up to a minute or even longer) after the power is switched off, though not a full volume...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It should be equal to (or more likely surpass) the WES so you can extrapolate from there. This circuit is mostly DC coupled where the WES is not and the parts quality here is much better coupled with a very stiff PSU. So much so in fact the amp will continue to play for good while (up to a minute or even longer) after the power is switched off, though not a full volume... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You need to bring it to CanJam, then start an amp restoration business. You could do the work while the bread bakes.


----------



## Bullseye

Sorry Padam but not in my book. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The O2 is hard to drive so it likes to have more power.
 340V vs 450V of RMS voltage on the 717 -> more power leads to more extended highs and lows with better dynamics, the 007tii might have slighly better mids but the 717 is considered to be better overall.

 SRM-717 is considered to be better than the SRM-727II where they fiddled with the output stage and it didn't do too much good to the sound(search this thread for more info)._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to bring it to CanJam, then start an amp restoration business. You could do the work while the bread bakes._

 

No way I'm shipping this thing as it weighs close to 25kg's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also rebuilds of this caliber would be very expensive if I weren't just wasting my own spare time on it. Just prepping the chassis took 10+ hours...


----------



## TwoTrack

I've always liked Stax headphones. Probably the best cans I have ever heard.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Ciao.
 I am actually using a STAX 4070 with an Illusion ESC-1001. Can you tell me which is the correct procedure about turning off the system ?

 1A) Turning off the CD player 
*2A*) Turning off the Integrated Amplifier connected to the Illusion
*3A*) Turning off the Illusion ESC-1001
 or
 1B) Turning off the CD player 
*2B*) Turning off the Illusion ESC-1001
*3B*) Turning off the Integrated Amplifier connected to the Illusion

 I am askign that because actually i am doing the *'A'* mode, and when i turn off the Amplifier (*2A*) i can hear a little 'TOC' on the headphone. Is that dangerous ? Should i try the *'B'* mode ?

 thanks you once again


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ciao.
 I am actually using a STAX 4070 with an Illusion ESC-1001. Can you tell me which is the correct procedure about turning off the system ?

 1A) Turning off the CD player 
*2A*) Turning off the Integrated Amplifier connected to the Illusion
*3A*) Turning off the Illusion ESC-1001
 or
 1B) Turning off the CD player 
*2B*) Turning off the Illusion ESC-1001
*3B*) Turning off the Integrated Amplifier connected to the Illusion

 I am askign that because actually i am doing the *'A'* mode, and when i turn off the Amplifier (*2A*) i can hear a little 'TOC' on the headphone. Is that dangerous ? Should i try the *'B'* mode ?

 thanks you once again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Here's how you do it.

 You turn on from the source out to the end device.

 Maybe something Like DAC > Pre-amp > Amp > Interface adapter >> Speakers/HP

 Turn Off in the opposite direction, that is from the end device to the source, with the source being turned off last.

 You should be able to figure it out , but neither A nor B above.

 That's how I've always done it.

 B wold probably work fine though.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are they still doing a DX version of the KGSS? There isn't anything that I could find about available upgrades on the Headamp site._

 

Last time I checked with Justin, he no longer offered the DX.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's how you do it.

 You turn on from the source out to the end device.

 Maybe something Like DAC > Pre-amp > Amp > Interface adapter >> Speakers/HP

 Turn Off in the opposite direction, that is from the end device to the source, with the source being turned off last.

 You should be able to figure it out , but neither A nor B above.

 That's how I've always done it.

 B wold probably work fine though._

 

Indeed you're right. One should always turn on the amp last and turn it off first, because that way you avoid any 'pop' that a device upstream can make, which in the worst case could destroy a tweeter or something.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed you're right. One should always turn on the amp last and turn it off first, because that way you avoid any 'pop' that a device upstream can make, which in the worst case could destroy a tweeter or something._

 

Still have the 'pop' even if i turn down the Illusion tranformer and then the amplifier.


----------



## Bullseye

Then pour a big volume of water over all your equipment. Once you see something either exploding or burning means you have correctly turned off everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [size=xx-small]*Disclaimer: I am not responsible of any damage or fire caused by using my method to shut down a music setup.[/size]

 Now do not worry about the pop. If you turn off the amplifier first (pausing the music first) there should be no problemo.


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Now do not worry about the pop. If you turn off the amplifierunplug the headphones first (pausing the music first) there should be no problemo._

 

FTFY


----------



## Hopstretch

I like to talk about, pop music. Pop pop pop, pop music.


----------



## The Monkey

Thanks for that. Now I'll have that song in my head all night.


----------



## brat

Hi,
 has someone here tried replacing the potentiometer of any stax amp with a stepped attenuator?
 Should we expect some improvement?


----------



## XXII

In need of help. My sr-007 mk1 is suddenly experiencing channel imbalance. The left channel is around 4-5db less than the right channel. Any suggestions on solutions to this problem? 

 I can attempt any DIY fix myself but worse comes to worst I may have to send it to Stax Japan (I don't think Stax has a distributor here in Hong Kong). Does anyone have experience doing this? Can you email them in English? If they have to replace the drivers will they be Mk2 drivers?


----------



## anetode

Dammit


----------



## studeb

Hi

 i am new to this thread. i have a problem.
 i have an eXStata beta amp and a pair of Stax Sr-X mk III headphones.
 i really enjoy the sound of this combo.
 the amp spanks a t-amp/adaptor set up.
 but i want more.

 i have skimmed some of the 843 pages of this thread, and used to think that barring an O2 that the 404 or even better a 404 LE was the next best thing. Now i am not so sure. Are the 404/LE better or just different from their lambda ancestors. Anyone compare them with the eXSataA amp?

 Or should i continue to collect bottles and cans, and save for an O series?


----------



## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In need of help. My sr-007 mk1 is suddenly experiencing channel imbalance. The left channel is around 4-5db less than the right channel. Any suggestions on solutions to this problem? 

 I can attempt any DIY fix myself but worse comes to worst I may have to send it to Stax Japan (I don't think Stax has a distributor here in Hong Kong). Does anyone have experience doing this? Can you email them in English? If they have to replace the drivers will they be Mk2 drivers?_

 

First thing to try is to unplug it from the amp and short all the pins together for a few seconds by wrapping a wire or some foil or something around the pins. Sometimes a charge builds up between the diaphragm and a stator that reduces the sensitivity. 

 As for having it repaired, iirc stax has admitted that the only differences between mk1 and mk2 are genuine leather pads and the strain relief on the cable (which results in an unintentional vent through the area where the cable strain relief is attached on the mk2 - easily solved with some bluetak or silicone RTV).


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ericj* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First thing to try is to unplug it from the amp and short all the pins together for a few seconds by wrapping a wire or some foil or something around the pins. Sometimes a charge builds up between the diaphragm and a stator that reduces the sensitivity. _

 

Thanks for the reply! I've shorted the pins against my palm with no difference. Let me try some wire later when I get home.

  Quote:


 As for having it repaired, iirc stax has admitted that the only differences between mk1 and mk2 are genuine leather pads and the strain relief on the cable (which results in an unintentional vent through the area where the cable strain relief is attached on the mk2 - easily solved with some bluetak or silicone RTV). 
 

It's good to know this. I thought the drivers were different as well


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,
 has someone here tried replacing the potentiometer of any stax amp with a stepped attenuator?
 Should we expect some improvement? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There is one here, which changed hands a few days ago.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/so...or-mod-469544/

 Perhaps asking the former/new owner for impressions?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,
 has someone here tried replacing the potentiometer of any stax amp with a stepped attenuator?
 Should we expect some improvement? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Stax SRM Monitor has a stepped attenuator and balanced inputs as well as the diffuse field equaliser, but is otherwise similar to the SRM 1 Mk 2 Pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's good to know this. I thought the drivers were different as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

They are (a bit more forward) and so is the spring underneath the earpads which changes the midrange. That plus the port in the cable entry were clearly intentional though they alter the sound in a bad way IMO.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *studeb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi

 i am new to this thread. i have a problem.
 i have an eXStata beta amp and a pair of Stax Sr-X mk III headphones.
 i really enjoy the sound of this combo.
 the amp spanks a t-amp/adaptor set up.
 but i want more.

 i have skimmed some of the 843 pages of this thread, and used to think that barring an O2 that the 404 or even better a 404 LE was the next best thing. Now i am not so sure. Are the 404/LE better or just different from their lambda ancestors. Anyone compare them with the eXSataA amp?

 Or should i continue to collect bottles and cans, and save for an O series?_

 

This amp was a DYI project I assume, so I suspect there is some variability in the sound and construction of each one. The SRXIII is a low bias phone so at the outset you would need to have a high bias outlet for the later phones. 

 The problem I find with the SRX III is the lack of real bass. It's good at what it does but then it misses the bottom octave or 2 and is not very satfisfying. 

 The Lambdas, and there are a dozen or more variations, will all have more bass, but it varies somewhat between them. 

 I would personally recommend the 404 as the last step between where you are the O2. I see it as a very good value for money. Although mnay of the other Lambdas are pretty good too. I made some comparisons a while back.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 It has been fashionable to bash the 404 in these pages, but its main problem is a somewhat harsh midrange. However compared to the SRXIII it is a sweeter phone. Also the midrange can be tamed by getting rid of the foam in the back side of the cups, a pretty easy mod, just peel back the earpads at the corners, unscrew 4 screws, yank out the panel and pull out the foam. It's just as easy to put the foam back if you prefer. 


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/


----------



## nsx_23

Right, I finally picked up my amplifier from the post office just then.






 Haven't bothered plugging it into my DAC yet, but the combo is already sounding fantastic.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right, I finally picked up my amplifier from the post office just then.






 Haven't bothered plugging it into my DAC yet, but the combo is already sounding fantastic._

 

That looks like an SRM1 with no high bias outlets. If you are running a 404 off a low bias amp it won't perform to its specs. It needs a high bias outlet.


----------



## nsx_23

Nope, its been rewired for Pro bias on the RHS socket by the seller.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope, its been rewired for Pro bias on the RHS socket by the seller._

 

Good then it will sound even better with a good DAC. A lot of the things people complain about with electrostatitics are actually source problems which the stats are able to reveal. I have gone through several generations of DAC and the better they are the better the phones will sound.


----------



## nsx_23

I plugged it into the iPod just to make sure the amp wasn't damaged in shipping, and it already sounds very good. You are right though, it makes crap recordings sound even worse. 

 What DACs could I be looking at? ATM I just have a op-amp swapped Zero connected to my mobo's optical out.


----------



## John Buchanan

The Apogee miniDAC is a nice DAC. That SRM1 Mk 2 is a nice amp.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What DACs could I be looking at? ATM I just have a op-amp swapped Zero connected to my mobo's optical out._

 

Get an Electrocompaniet ECD-1. Be happy.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right, I finally picked up my amplifier from the post office just then.

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...IMAG0024-1.jpg

 Haven't bothered plugging it into my DAC yet, but the combo is already sounding fantastic._

 

Pleased to see that the SRM-1 have arrived, and that you after almost 4 months have brought some life back into the SR-404. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Spend some time with the combo then share some impressions with us.


----------



## nsx_23

Well, I've spent a little bit of time just listening through the iPod today, and in some ways its kind of similar to the HD650. 

 Trying a few miscellaneous jazz FLAC albums, the treble is more pronounced on the SR-404 compared to the HD650, yet both offer an excellent soundstage. I heard a little bit of distortion/artifacts on some of the female vocal-only tracks, but I think its down to the crap source more than anything to do with the amp or headphone. 

 Bass is very crisp and its sort of like the TF10pro IEMs - Well defined, clear but not overwhelming. 

 I will need more time to suss out the nuisances of this combination, but its a journey I look forward to. Back to studying for an exam for now though. Sigh. 

 I wonder if there is a lot to gain from removing the foam in the Lambdas or/and modding the amplifier. Audiocats recommended replacing the stock output caps with some boutique caps (This is an SRM1 MKI, not MKII), and it seems like a simple mod. I'm heading back to Hong Kong next week, so if the caps are cheap there than I might buy some and bring them back.


----------



## JimP

thanks XXII for pointing me to local store - picked up a new 404LE today!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Waiting on a SRD7Pro to arrive, to hook up to my amps at hand. This will be my first foray into 'stats. btw, the store was down to 2 - the last pair had serial number of 0666 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 - no way I was going to touch that last pair, although tempted to buy both! now if I could only source an exstata...(I know it's DIY and quite limited, but in remote chance anyone knows of any leads...)


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_now if I could only source an exstata...(I know it's DIY and quite limited, but in remote chance anyone knows of any leads..._

 

Hey, you can't do this here!

 I want an eXStata too! (and I know how to upper-lower-case the name, nyah nyah).


----------



## JimP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Elephas* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, you can't do this here!_

 

yes I can...because you have way too much (good) crap that any individual hobbyist should have a right to!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (throws rocks, runs away...)


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks XXII for pointing me to local store - picked up a new 404LE today!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Waiting on a SRD7Pro to arrive, to hook up to my amps at hand. This will be my first foray into 'stats. btw, the store was down to 2 - the last pair had serial number of 0666 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 - no way I was going to touch that last pair, although tempted to buy both! now if I could only source an exstata...(I know it's DIY and quite limited, but in remote chance anyone knows of any leads...)
_

 

Congrats on the 404LE...they are fantastic! I just sold 0669 and thought it would be cool to have 0666 so now I now where they are. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have 093* and really wish I could have gotten 1000!

 BTW, I saw big performance gains on my new pair in the first 100 hours of use and then they tapered off. So you may want to consider a little burn-in and see what YOU think. Oh, and for the love of God...please don't let me comment turn into another burn-in debate!


----------



## orkney

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks XXII for pointing me to local store - picked up a new 404LE today!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Waiting on a SRD7Pro to arrive, to hook up to my amps at hand. This will be my first foray into 'stats. btw, the store was down to 2 - the last pair had serial number of 0666 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 - no way I was going to touch that last pair, although tempted to buy both! now if I could only source an exstata...(I know it's DIY and quite limited, but in remote chance anyone knows of any leads...)




_

 

Congrats on these -- still hunting for a pair since these are now very difficult to source in Canada but had a chance to hear these extensively last weekend and loved 'em. They were being driven from an older Stax amp and while I didn't get a sense of great bass impact they were very quick and articulate across the FR and had soundstaging in spades and a relaxed but detailed presentation I've never heard from a dynamic phone.

 I'm a Stax newbie but didn't find these to be honky or plasticky-sounding in any of the music we tried; though on very dynamic passages they have the same sense of a dynamic stretching rather than explosiveness as do my Martin-Logans, if that makes any sense. Still, very nice indeed.

 best,

 o


----------



## nsx_23

Just plugged in my STAX combo into my Zero.

 My head's exploded.


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just plugged in my STAX combo into my Zero.

 My head's exploded._

 

nice to see you're finally enjoying your 404s. I should receive my new stax amp this week... cant wait


----------



## JimP

anyone out there running the 404LE with the new SRM 600 as well, if so any impressions?


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just plugged in my STAX combo into my Zero.

 My head's exploded._

 

Eargasm?


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *krmathis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eargasm? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

EarPlosion?


----------



## Philimon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_EarPlosion?_

 

Earjaculation?


----------



## spritzer

Nah, he just heard how utterly terrible the Zero is as a source.


----------



## The Monkey

^win.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just plugged in my STAX combo into my Zero.

 My head's exploded._

 

Congrats!!!


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if there is a lot to gain from removing the foam in the Lambdas or/and modding the amplifier. Audiocats recommended replacing the stock output caps with some boutique caps (This is an SRM1 MKI, not MKII), and it seems like a simple mod. I'm heading back to Hong Kong next week, so if the caps are cheap there than I might buy some and bring them back._

 

I'm not a big believer in removing the foam from any of the Stax phones. Recapping sounds like a possible good idea, but be careful with a high voltage amp like that, you could die. You can order great caps online, never been to Hong Kong, it would be cool to be able to buy nice boutique caps straight from the street store.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not a big believer in removing the foam from any of the Stax phones. Recapping sounds like a possible good idea, but be careful with a high voltage amp like that, you could die. You can order great caps online, never been to Hong Kong, it would be cool to be able to buy nice boutique caps straight from the street store._

 

Man, I need to get one of these PIX mod'd with Caps instead of CD's!

 Your street store statement reminded me of this, Shhhh! Hey buddy, want some BlackGates?
 >>

 >>


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I need to get one of these PIX mod'd with Caps instead of CD's!

 Your street store statement reminded me of this, Shhhh! Hey buddy, want some BlackGates?
 >>

 >>



_

 

Yeah, you get DIY'rs calling all the time. It's all like, Hey bro. yeah, I think I might be holding some. What you looking for? Ok, let me check my values.... So and so might have some more.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In need of help. My sr-007 mk1 is suddenly experiencing channel imbalance. The left channel is around 4-5db less than the right channel. Any suggestions on solutions to this problem? _

 

Just to update. It seems like this problem was cured by not using the headphones a few days and now the headphones are working perfectly again.


----------



## dyna10x

Hi fellow stax lovers
 Just picked up my sr lambdas & sr-1/mk2 c series amp that I won on Yahoo japan. Well they look to be in mint condition and I am itching to fire them up but I have a few things to sort out first. I live in Australia so I need to set the amp for 240v. There is a sticker on the back that says 100v only but there is also the voltage setting holes behind the small black plate as well. So I have some questions.
 1. I assume that the voltage can be changed to 240v using the pins?
 2. There is no jumper in the holes so what should I use for a jumper?
 3. I assume you bridge 2 holes with a jumper. The 240v hole is labelled 3rd from left on top row. Which other hole do I connect to with the jumper?
 4. Can I plug the amp into an Aust power socket with a 3 pin power lead from a computer as the left hand pin on the amps power socket is labelled as being hot. Is this going to be OK or will there be an issue with polarity?
 Thanks in advance for your help. Cant wait to have a listen but I want to make sure I get the amp set up for our voltage correctly.


----------



## Lillethor

I vacuum cleaned my ear-speakers (Martin-Logan advice  ) and damaged the ultra thin dust/humidity diaphragm on the back of the electrostatic elements. Since it was ruptured I opened the housing and gently removed the remaining parts of this humidity isolation diaphragm on the back. The humidity isolation diaphragm on the front (ear side) is not damaged. The ear-speaker work fine after this accident. Is this dust/humidity diaphragm on the back important?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi fellow stax lovers
 Just picked up my sr lambdas & sr-1/mk2 c series amp that I won on Yahoo japan. Well they look to be in mint condition and I am itching to fire them up but I have a few things to sort out first. I live in Australia so I need to set the amp for 240v. There is a sticker on the back that says 100v only but there is also the voltage setting holes behind the small black plate as well. So I have some questions.
 1. I assume that the voltage can be changed to 240v using the pins?
 2. There is no jumper in the holes so what should I use for a jumper?
 3. I assume you bridge 2 holes with a jumper. The 240v hole is labelled 3rd from left on top row. Which other hole do I connect to with the jumper?
 4. Can I plug the amp into an Aust power socket with a 3 pin power lead from a computer as the left hand pin on the amps power socket is labelled as being hot. Is this going to be OK or will there be an issue with polarity?
 Thanks in advance for your help. Cant wait to have a listen but I want to make sure I get the amp set up for our voltage correctly._

 

There should be a Stax jumper plug that sorts that out - secured by two screws - that you turn until the arrow on the plug faces the correct voltage for your area (240 for Australia). Later amps deleted this to avoid grey market sales. Check out photos of the back of the SRM 1 Mk 2 in the forum. 
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/attach...fier-stax2.jpg


----------



## n3rdling

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I vacuum cleaned my ear-speakers (Martin-Logan advice  ) and damaged the ultra thin dust/humidity diaphragm on the back of the electrostatic elements. Since it was ruptured I opened the housing and gently removed the remaining parts of this humidity isolation diaphragm on the back. The humidity isolation diaphragm on the front (ear side) is not damaged. The ear-speaker work fine after this accident. Is this dust/humidity diaphragm on the back important?_

 

If you're referring to that HE60 "mod" thread, that was some really terrible advice given. I wish the mods would delete it so people won't damage their headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Leave the headphone drivers alone. They were protected for a reason.


----------



## dyna10x

Thanks for that John
 All I have is 2 horizontal rows of female round terminals with 6 terminal holes per row. Some of the terminals are marked with different voltages. There is no sliding selector as in the photo you linked to. It looks like you have to link 2 terminal holes? with an appropriate size conducting wire. Is this correct and if so which terminals (the 240v is clearly marked 3rd from left top row. Maybe to sliding selector has been removed on my amp. The selector terminal opening is covered with flat plastic plate secured by 2 screws. Anyone know the correct procedure to fix this?
 Thanks


----------



## gilency

Just changed the pads on my Sigma Pro. The nasty glue underneath the pads is a pain to remove. I used rubbing alcohol first and then tried with my fingernails first but then found out is easier to roll it out with your fingertips into a little sticky black mass of glue. 
 They look like new. And to think they are 30+ years old. Very durable.


----------



## dyna10x

I now have some photos of my srm-1/mk2 amp so that you can see how it is set up and hopefully someone can tell me how to set it up to run on 240v.

 I have done a search to find info and the best I came across was on Audiogon. Spritzer identified the amp as being of the generation that was set for Japan without the jumper to change voltage to stop grey imports. Apparently it could be changed by stax dealers to the voltage required in the country of sale.

 Please could someone give me directions on how to do this.
 Thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I now have some photos of my srm-1/mk2 amp so that you can see how it is set up and hopefully someone can tell me how to set it up to run on 240v._

 

I think you are missing a part that plugs into the back to allow you to select which voltage you are using.


----------



## dyna10x

Yes that is right. The voltage selector terminals are covered with a flat plastic plate secured by 2 screws. Any knowledge on how to change voltage without the specific part in the above photo.
 Thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes that is right. The voltage selector terminals are covered with a flat plastic plate secured by 2 screws. Any knowledge on how to change voltage without the specific part in the above photo.
 Thanks_

 

Unfortunately I can't help because I don't have the Stax amp anymore. I was thinking you should try to buy the missing part. It unplugs and you rotate it or move it over a couple of pegs, in order to switch between the 4 major voltages, then screw the metal strap down to hold it in place.


----------



## dyna10x

so does anyone know where I could buy the missing part?


----------



## spritzer

Do not put a plug from some other Stax gear in there, as it will blow up the amp!! This goes for all other Stax products which are missing the plug, they are wired very differently. 

 You'll have a PM soon...


----------



## Lillethor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're referring to that HE60 "mod" thread, that was some really terrible advice given. I wish the mods would delete it so people won't damage their headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Leave the headphone drivers alone. They were protected for a reason._

 

Well, done is done
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This was no attempt on tweaking the ear-speakers but solely a result of efficient vacuum cleaning the housing from the outside which made the fragile dust protection diaphragm rupture. Since the ear-speakers are still working fine without the dust protection diaphragm I guess it is not an important part of the system. Some electrostatic loudspeakers such as Martin Logan ELS do not have any dust protection but they are supposed to be regularly vacuum cleaned to remove dust from the acoustic membrane and stators. So, do not vacuum clean your STAX because you will likely remove more than just dust.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I vacuum cleaned my ear-speakers (Martin-Logan advice  ) and damaged the ultra thin dust/humidity diaphragm on the back of the electrostatic elements. Since it was ruptured I opened the housing and gently removed the remaining parts of this humidity isolation diaphragm on the back. The humidity isolation diaphragm on the front (ear side) is not damaged. The ear-speaker work fine after this accident. Is this dust/humidity diaphragm on the back important?_

 

Martin Logan advised you to hoover your electrostatic headphones made by another company? If that's the case they should pay for the repair. Somehow I doubt that's the case though.

 Having torn it, you opened up the headphone and instead of repairing the damage, removed the part? Let us compare to cars. If you were reinflating your tires using an air hose designed to fill SCUBA tanks and you blew the tire open, would you patch up or replace the tire, or seeing some damage, decide to remove the entire wheel?

 That driver may work fine for now. And may work fine for a while if you look after it really carefully, but it will fail at some point. That dust shield is not there for no reason.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, done is done
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This was no attempt on tweaking the ear-speakers but solely a result of efficient vacuum cleaning the housing from the outside which made the fragile dust protection diaphragm rupture. Since the ear-speakers are still working fine without the dust protection diaphragm I guess it is not an important part of the system. Some electrostatic loudspeakers such as Martin Logan ELS do not have any dust protection but they are supposed to be regularly vacuum cleaned to remove dust from the acoustic membrane and stators. So, do not vacuum clean your STAX because you will likely remove more than just dust._

 

Get them repaired now, while the repair bill will be comparitively cheap.


----------



## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I vacuum cleaned my ear-speakers (Martin-Logan advice  ) and damaged the ultra thin dust/humidity diaphragm on the back of the electrostatic elements. Since it was ruptured I opened the housing and gently removed the remaining parts of this humidity isolation diaphragm on the back. The humidity isolation diaphragm on the front (ear side) is not damaged. The ear-speaker work fine after this accident. Is this dust/humidity diaphragm on the back important?_

 

That really sucks!

 Sorry, it had to be said.


----------



## Lillethor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Martin Logan advised you to hoover your electrostatic headphones made by another company?_

 

No, of course they did't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They recommend vacuum cleaning of their elektrostatic loudspeakers - so there is the analogy.

_*Vacuuming will be most effective if the speakers have been unplugged for six hours to twelve hours (i.e. overnight). You need not worry about the vacuum pressure damaging the "delicate" membrane.*_

  Quote:


 Having torn it, you opened up the headphone and instead of repairing the damage, removed the part? 
 

Well, it can't be repaired - thats for sure. The dust membran is thinner than the acoustic diaphragm which is 1.35 micron. So I removed the remaining parts. I guess that was better than having small fragments of the membran floating around.

  Quote:


 That driver may work fine for now. And may work fine for a while if you look after it really carefully, but it will fail at some point. 
 

Well, does'nt everything fail at som point but my hope was that the dust protection wasn't really neccessary in a non-smoking and clean indoor environment. Some manufacturers of electrostatic speakers don't use dust protection and they do not improve the sound. So I believe it is not a necessity.

  Quote:


 Get them repaired now, while the repair bill will be comparitively cheap. 
 

Now I have an excuse for buying the anniversary SR-404 LIMITED


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're referring to that HE60 "mod" thread, that was some really terrible advice given. I wish the mods would delete it so people won't damage their headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Leave the headphone drivers alone. They were protected for a reason._

 

I would consider getting the thinnest mylar I could find, possibly even Saran Wrap and replacing the dust cover. I am sure a dealer could do it but at a considerable cost. I don't like the foam behind the drivers but the dust cover is another story.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, of course they did't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They recommend vacuum cleaning of their elektrostatic loudspeakers - so there is the analogy.

*Vacuuming will be most effective if the speakers have been unplugged for six hours to twelve hours (i.e. overnight). You need not worry about the vacuum pressure damaging the "delicate" membrane.*_

 

Speakers are larger. They have larger gaps between the internal parts and when the negative air pressure forces of a hoover are applied to the outside there is so much grille around as to make any tension on the thin parts inside of little concern. The parts in headphones are smaller and closer together and there is not the large area for negative air pressure to disperse via the grille.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, it can't be repaired - thats for sure. The dust membran is thinner than the acoustic diaphragm which is 1.35 micron. So I removed the remaining parts. I guess that was better than having small fragments of the membran floating around._

 

It could be repaired by a service tech and it is my advice to have it done.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, does'nt everything fail at som point but my hope was that the dust protection wasn't really neccessary in a non-smoking and clean indoor environment. Some manufacturers of electrostatic speakers don't use dust protection and they do not improve the sound. So I believe it is not a necessity._

 

I'd call the prevention of terminal or progressively terminal arcing something which "improves sound". I hope that you do okay with the headphones, but think you're being either highly optimistic or ignorant with regard to the role that dust protection plays. It may not be necessary, but it is certainly recommended. Electrostatic speakers which have dust protection removed tend towards higher membrane failure rates. Same with models which do not have any overload protection measures.


----------



## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Well, does'nt everything fail at som point but my hope was that the dust protection wasn't really neccessary in a non-smoking and clean indoor environment. Some manufacturers of electrostatic speakers don't use dust protection and they do not improve the sound. So I believe it is not a necessity.


 Now I have an excuse for buying the anniversary SR-404 LIMITED 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Then good luck to you. You'll find many of us will strongly disagree with you. Another point that should be mentioned is that if you decide to sell said Hoovered Staxen at some point, it would be your responsibility to fully disclose the damage (and yes I'd most certainly consider this damage).


----------



## Dr No

I have never heard of electrostatic speakers arcing or being damaged by dust collection. Even the big Beveridge stats made in the 1970´s still work fine after almost 40 years, and they do not even have dust covers. vacuum cleaning (gentle) a speaker is fine. if the dust cover is torn, it is easy to have it replaced by a new one (as it can be heat shrinked to tension), but otherwise the speakers (or headphones) sound better without it. My He60 improved a lot SQ-wise upon removal of the dust covers.


----------



## Lillethor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then good luck to you. You'll find many of us will strongly disagree with you. Another point that should be mentioned is that if you decide to sell said Hoovered Staxen at some point, it would be your responsibility to fully disclose the damage (and yes I'd most certainly consider this damage)._

 

Ha, ha... how many here have ever tried SR-404 without dust protection membran 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess I am one of the first...... 

 To discover that the dust membran is removed you will have to be more than an expert. And if they had been removed by one of the previous owners I would never have discovered this myself..... but relax they sound to good to ever be sold.


----------



## manaox2

A parasitic charge that close to your ear on such a smaller diaphragm compared to speakers seems like it could be more audible. I've heard its affects myself on Stax phones when dust reaches the diaphram, I would personally never remove the dust covers. 

 From what you are saying, dust build-up over time has obviously been able to affect speakers if you for some reason need to vacuum them, I'd suspect it to affect headphones even more. I've heard several stories now of electrostatic phones being damaged by people who attempt to vacuum them and not one success story, replacement seems like the only true option if they develop dust issues. I would probably want to cry if you pulled this on an SR-404LE.


----------



## n3rdling

I should start a mod thread where I advise to wash the drivers with soap and water


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lillethor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ha, ha... how many here have ever tried SR-404 without dust protection membran 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess I am one of the first...... 

 To discover that the dust membran is removed you will have to be more than an expert. And if they had been removed by one of the previous owners I would never have discovered this myself..... but relax they sound to good to ever be sold. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As swt61 said, then good luck to you. I hope that your 404 doesn't ever develop driver issues, but if it does, it was bound to happen and we told you so. Same to Dr. No.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should start a mod thread where I advise to wash the drivers with soap and water 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not supposed to use Soap...

 Just get some well water from some Artesians.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr No* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never heard of electrostatic speakers arcing or being damaged by dust collection. Even the big Beveridge stats made in the 1970´s still work fine after almost 40 years, and they do not even have dust covers. vacuum cleaning (gentle) a speaker is fine. if the dust cover is torn, it is easy to have it replaced by a new one (as it can be heat shrinked to tension), but otherwise the speakers (or headphones) sound better without it. My He60 improved a lot SQ-wise upon removal of the dust covers._

 

Very simple reason for this, headphone drivers are not only far better optimized then speaker drivers will ever be (save for the newest Sound-Lab units) but the D/S gap is much smaller. You are also wearing the drivers so you'll easily hear a small particle causing a hiss or let alone when the HE60's will start to oscillate violently.


----------



## invisiman

Hey guys, sorry for this basic question, but I'm having a hard time finding a definitive answer(yes I tried searching the thread): The SRM-252II does not require a stereo amplifier to supply current, or audio signal, correct? Are there any other full-size Pro-Bias driver units that do not require speaker amps?

 Thanks for you help with this


----------



## Elephas

I believe the SRM-252II doesn't require a speaker amp because it itself is an amp. A relatively small and feeble amp, but still an amp.

 I'm joking about the feeble part, I'm just being envious of its cool-ness. 

 It is quite warm today and there's no way I'm going to turn on a hot tube amp that can melt my eyeballs when I'm trying to adjust fiddly tiny screws inside the chassis because I'm getting old and eyesight and coordination is failing and the guy who designed the amp is apparently a sprightly 20-something with eagle eyes and killer hand-eye coordination who can probably play FPS games on Insanity using a laptop trackpad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I want to move somewhere close to the Arctic or Antarctic.

 The units that require speaker amps are transformers. They take the signal from the speaker cables and convert it so a headphone can be plugged into the box.

 I don't think that the transformer boxes sound very good, but I've only tried a small number of power amps.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *invisiman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, sorry for this basic question, but I'm having a hard time finding a definitive answer(yes I tried searching the thread): The SRM-252II does not require a stereo amplifier to supply current, or audio signal, correct? Are there any other full-size Pro-Bias driver units that do not require speaker amps?

 Thanks for you help with this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

See here. Only the 'Amplifier Adapters' (bottom of page) need speaker amps, the rest take a line signal and amplify that themselves.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

So I've been doing a lot of research lately because I'm going to recap my speakers. In my musings, I have read a lot on why we replace caps. It got me thinking about my stax set up, and specifically, my SRD-7sb. Now, I'm a novice, and I have not opened it up, but are there caps that could/should be replaced in this old unit? I know if there are caps, then they are way past their prime. What say you, stax gurus?


----------



## spritzer

First off we are talking about bias supply caps here, there are no crossovers so nothing in the signal path. Most speakers will have caps in the signal path and they are often electrolytics which are far from as linear as film caps. This hasn't stopped people putting V-caps in their bias supplies... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for the caps in SRD boxes, it really depends on the age of the unit. The very old units have electrolytic caps and selenium diodes and these will age quite badly (mostly just SRD-5's which have these). The newer units all have silicone diodes and polyester caps which will last for a very long time and really don't need to be replaced. The only positive change you could make is to switch to mains power but I really don't think it matters.


----------



## Michgelsen

Question: when you pull off the pads of a Lambda, are they still sticky enough to be reattached? Or do you need new ones in that case?

 I don't want try and find out that you do indeed need new ones...


----------



## padam

I might be sticky enough but best is to just get some double-sided adhesive sheet and cut it to that particular shape.


----------



## gilency

Stax sells their replacement pads with general-purpose double coated tape G9000.


----------



## Michgelsen

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I don't have anything around now... The problem is that the previous owner of my Lambda Signature has placed the pads upside down...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Their condition appears to be fine though, so it would be a waste if I had to buy new ones when I only need to turn them around.


----------



## padam

There are other types of glue which might work just fine, you just need to put a little to the corners. I thought about reversing the headband as well but if they are upside down, that probably does not solve it.


----------



## Michgelsen

I'll let it be for now. I almost never listen to them anyway, because they're my backup pair.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keithpgdrb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It got me thinking about my stax set up, and specifically, my SRD-7sb..._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...The only positive change you could make is to switch to mains power but I really don't think it matters._

 

I agree that it is unlikely to matter. I've got both powered SRD-7 and SRD-7SB boxes and prefer my SB box. Not sure if that would translate to a Pro SB box (that would be needing to generate a higher Bias voltage) but I'm always on the lookout for one of those to try it and find out.


----------



## edstrelow

There's a guy selling some Marantz stats on Ebay. These are recabled for a Stax amp. Looks interesting but then he says: 

 "I will mention that you have to keep them on the energizer all the time or they will take quite a while for the volume to come up to listening levels. I have them on an energizer right now and will leave them there until I ship them. After, lets say, 4 or 5 days in the mail they will take an hour or so on an energizer to be ready to play properly. (The energizer doesn't have to have any input. It just has to be on.)My Magnavox electrostatics and my other set of Marantz both behave in exactly the same way. Even my Stax mark III's exhibit a little tendency that way but they never need more than 15 minutes or so to come up to speed"

 This doesn't inspire confidence in this item and I am wondering what the problem is. Sure I expect some warm-up issues, but not an hour for the volume to come up to listening levels. 

 Does he have a problem with a parasitic charge or what?

 BTW are these phones any good? Are they sealed or open back?
 "


----------



## gilency

aren't they related to the SR-5's? is the sound similar?


----------



## spritzer

The ballast resistors on these were much larger then on the normal Stax phones so the coating is clearly different. That is certainly at play here. 

 All in all not bad headphones but overpriced next to the other Stax OEM's just because of the Marantz badge...


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question: when you pull off the pads of a Lambda, are they still sticky enough to be reattached? Or do you need new ones in that case?

 I don't want try and find out that you do indeed need new ones..._

 

I've taken off the pads on my lambda pros, cleaned them and stuck them back on without using double sided tape/glue/etc, so in my case they were sticky enough to be reattached. 

 Hope that helps.


----------



## Michgelsen

Ah thanks, that's encouraging news. I'll give it a go then.


----------



## green0153

I have done that with my Lambdas too.Just pay attention when you are not using them to turn the driver(case) 180 degrees so that the pads are not touching because if the headband is new the pads will move a bit over time. It's quite annoying.

 Maybe it will not happen in your case but that was my experience.


----------



## Philimon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *green0153* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have done that with my Lambdas too.Just pay attention when you are not using them to turn the driver(case) 180 degrees so that the pads are not touching because if the headband is new the pads will move a bit over time. It's quite annoying.

 Maybe it will not happen in your case but that was my experience._

 

The pads on mine move over time as well. I need to apply some new adhesive after having removed/reconfigured the pads. 

 Where can I buy the suggested G9000 double sided sticky tape or very similar product to use with my pads? I looked at double sided sticky tape at hardware store, but most of them seem too thick, or I am worried they might be too strong and will be very hard to remove later if necessary.


----------



## gilency

I am not sure where you can buy it, but you could probably check places like Office Depot. The g9000 tape is very thin and transparent. You may be able to substitute with double sided 3M tape.


----------



## dyna10x

Thanks to Spritzers help I wired up my SRM1/MK2 pro for 240v and got it running. Well what a giant upgrade from my SR84 electret setup. Makes the 84 sound aneamic and thin and much more comfortable as well. The sr lambda & srm is a fantastic combo and I look forward to hours of listening pleasure.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to Spritzers help I wired up my SRM1/MK2 pro for 240v and got it running. Well what a giant upgrade from my SR84 electret setup. Makes the 84 sound aneamic and thin and much more comfortable as well. The sr lambda & srm is a fantastic combo and I look forward to hours of listening pleasure._

 

Spritzer helped me get one of my SRM1K2's going too. In my case from 240 to 110 volts. My thanks to him too. 

 The amp is pretty good,but save your pennies for 717. It's a notable step up and powerful enough to handle the O2 phones.


----------



## Michgelsen

But the SRM-717 has pro bias only, so it cannot drive the SR-Lambda.

 I recently got myself a SRM-717 (in black, yay!) , but I'm not sure yet whether it is an upgrade over my SRM-T1. It makes the SR-202, which I really love on the T1, notably brighter. It seems plausible that the extra power of the SRM-717 is the cause of that. Even though the highs are never harsh the amount of highs can be fatiguing, in which case the extra detail, separation and bass punchiness are kind of useless.
 I hope I still can get a SR-404LE somewhere to try with the SRM-717. I read that it's a good combo. If you ask me, the SR-202 and SRM-717 are not.


----------



## hentai

Just wanna share with you my experience of modified 727a. The amp was modified by a local hifi technician who has 30 years of experience. He told me that the power supply used in the 727a amp was pretty basic. Though some stax experts here may not like 727a and feel skeptical about the 'upgrade' I did with the amp, I feel that my modified 727a sounds very good and better than the stock one. Better clarity, more expressive mids. I can't remember the details of what he had done in modifying the amp but one of them was replacing the power supply.

 The stock 727a is just okay but i expect more than that. Some of you may ask why i didnt' get the 717 or KGSS in the 1st place. I don't want get anything used and KGSS takes a very long time for my patience. ( No tubes for me now) So for now my current amp/setup is good enough to last me for the time I require to save up for blue hawaii but then again I heard that even BH is not the ulitmate amp for stax omega.

 Btw, even its not the blue hawaii or a top end meridian cd player, I still enjoy my stax 007a alot. Its much better than all the dynamic headphones I have heard so far.


----------



## padam

Other mods which might be worthwhile to do is replacing the volume control with a stepped attenuator and I heard that the XLR/RCA switch is not great either.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hentai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wanna share with you my experience of modified 727a. The amp was modified by a local hifi technician who has 30 years of experience. He told me that the power supply used in the 727a amp was pretty basic. Though some stax experts here may not like 727a and feel skeptical about the 'upgrade' I did with the amp, I feel that my modified 727a sounds very good and better than the stock one. Better clarity, more expressive mids. I can't remember the details of what he had done in modifying the amp but one of them was replacing the power supply.

 The stock 727a is just okay but i expect more than that. Some of you may ask why i didnt' get the 717 or KGSS in the 1st place. I don't want get anything used and KGSS takes a very long time for my patience. ( No tubes for me now) So for now my current amp/setup is good enough to last me for the time I require to save up for blue hawaii but then again I heard that even BH is not the ulitmate amp for stax omega.

 Btw, even its not the blue hawaii or a top end meridian cd player, I still enjoy my stax 007a alot. Its much better than all the dynamic headphones I have heard so far._

 


 It seems that the high end designs such as the BHSE put a lot of effort into their power supplies which are usually in separate cases. I have often wondered if it wold be worthwhile to take some of the Stax designs and supply a better power supply. It sounds like your guy did that for you.


----------



## Johnnie

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hentai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wanna share with you my experience of modified 727a. The amp was modified by a local hifi technician who has 30 years of experience. He told me that the power supply used in the 727a amp was pretty basic. Though some stax experts here may not like 727a and feel skeptical about the 'upgrade' I did with the amp, I feel that my modified 727a sounds very good and better than the stock one. Better clarity, more expressive mids. I can't remember the details of what he had done in modifying the amp but one of them was replacing the power supply.

 The stock 727a is just okay but i expect more than that. Some of you may ask why i didnt' get the 717 or KGSS in the 1st place. I don't want get anything used and KGSS takes a very long time for my patience. ( No tubes for me now) So for now my current amp/setup is good enough to last me for the time I require to save up for blue hawaii but then again I heard that even BH is not the ulitmate amp for stax omega.

 Btw, even its not the blue hawaii or a top end meridian cd player, I still enjoy my stax 007a alot. Its much better than all the dynamic headphones I have heard so far._

 

Glad to hear the upgrades are working well for you. Earlier in the Stax thread, Dinan posted his modifications to his Stax SRM-717. 

 I, too, have noticed the espoused preference of the 717 to the 727 (similar to the SR-007 Mk 1 compared to Mk 2). Unlike the Mk 1 Omegas, the SR-717 rarely comes up for sale (at least that I have seen). 

 Enjoy!


----------



## Dr No




----------



## spritzer

All Stax amps (the electrostatic anyway) have very basic CRC psu's (some even have just a smoothing cap) so you can get some real improvements by replacing it. The bad news though is the size of the chassis and that the amp is built to a strict budget so any extra current draw on the transformer will be a very bad idea in the long term. 

 As for the 727, it's problem isn't with the PSU since it is pretty much the same as the 717 uses. What is the problem is the new amp design which just doesn't sound as linear as the 717.


----------



## Michgelsen

Plus the 717 looks better than the 727.


----------



## almuzzi

Hey guys! I'm soon to be joining team stax! Was trying to decide between an audio.gd compass+k701 or a low end stax setup, but then got hit by a stax (portable!) audition and now theres no turning back.

 Just won an SRM-T1S on yahoo japan, but no earspeakers yet. Are these better than the SRM212/313s? I listen to classical mainly, which earspeaker should i get for a budget of $300? I'm looking at lambda pros, SR-2020/3030 mainly.

 Also, im trying to decide between vinyl and a dac setup. Either a used technics SL-D2(do recommend a preamp if one is needed) or a new V-DAC.

 I really fell in love with the stax sound after listening to the portable stax (SR001MK2) and would love some help in these areas...Thanks!

 Edit: Do i need a power transformer for these? My country is at 240V, and its rated at 100V. I saw spritzers instructions on how to change the voltage, but i dont understand them and i dont know if theyll apply to my amp =(

 Also, theres an SRM-T2 on sale at yahoo jpn. Current price is 150,000JPY, which is around 1.8k usd i think, if anyones interested


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *almuzzi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just won an SRM-T1S on yahoo japan, but no earspeakers yet. Are these better than the SRM212/313s? I listen to classical mainly, which earspeaker should i get for a budget of $300? I'm looking at lambda pros, SR-2020/3030 mainly._

 

I find the SRM-T1, which is almost the same as an SRM-T1S, with the SR-202 an excellent match in all aspects. I'm not sure if you can buy an SR-202 for $300 in Singapore. It's $350 (new) at Woo Audio, but prices can be different where you live. Second-hand they should cost less, but can be hard to find without an amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *almuzzi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: Do i need a power transformer for these? My country is at 240V, and its rated at 100V. I saw spritzers instructions on how to change the voltage, but i dont understand them and i dont know if theyll apply to my amp =(_

 

It depends. Some amps have a voltage selector plug that can easily be changed to the right voltage. If yours hasn't, then you'll need a transformer if you don't want to do any soldering.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *almuzzi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I really fell in love with the stax sound after listening to the portable stax (SR001MK2) and would love some help in these areas...Thanks!_

 

Beware the portable Stax has a different sound signature than the Lambdas, i didn't try the SR-001 but i own the 003 which are essentially the same but for home use. They have a darker signature, i find them very mid-centric with a good amount of bass but a recessed treble. My Lambda is a bit less bassy and sounds a bit bright sometimes, and the Nova line is supposed to be the one with the least glare. In good conditions i'd say it can sound very smooth overall, a nice upgrade from the 003 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't know about the other Lambdas.


----------



## almuzzi

Ah yea i loved the midrange mostly, was listening to a violin solo so i didnt really notice the recessed treble. I actually love my etymotics er4b, so something bright, with less but deeper bass would be very very welcome!

 Hmm...the sr2020 IS kinda hard to find by itself, i really dont mind used at all though (the T1S is used). Problem is i have nowhere to try the different stax 'phones locally (partly because im going to get enlisted into the army very soon).

  Quote:


 Beware the portable Stax has a different sound signature than the Lambdas, i didn't try the SR-001 but i own the 003 which are essentially the same but for home use. They have a darker signature, i find them very mid-centric with a good amount of bass but a recessed treble. My Lambda is a bit less bassy and sounds a bit bright sometimes, and the Nova line is supposed to be the one with the least glare. In good conditions i'd say it can sound very smooth overall, a nice upgrade from the 003 I don't know about the other Lambdas. 
 

Ah isnt the LNS hard to find (read: expensive)? I'd love to have a pair but i should think its out of my budget. Is the Lambda Pro a good compromise?

 EDIT: forgot to ask, will using the balanced input (on the T1S) from a balanced dac give an improvement as compared to imbalanced input? it does for dynamics, but im not very sure if it does for electrostatics...


----------



## Currawong

I was lucky to pick up a good pair of LNS on Yahoo for about $220. Best headphone score I've ever made. Do try and get a very good DAC for the Stax. Also, I recommend some Herbies Tube Dampers for the T1. They are only $9 each or thereabouts and IMO make an improvement to the sound.


----------



## almuzzi

Have you ever tried the v dac? Is it good enough? Considering my budget is around $300 for the dac, im guessing that the vdac is the best i can get but if there are better options perhaps i might spring for them. 

 Im also thinking about going vinyl as an alternative...that should be suitable right?

 And the LNS for $220!? Theres one on there for 73000 JPY paired with a T1! Man thats a super price...I dont think it'll come around again anytime soon


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *almuzzi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah yea i loved the midrange mostly, was listening to a violin solo so i didnt really notice the recessed treble. I actually love my etymotics er4b, so something bright, with less but deeper bass would be very very welcome!_

 

You should like the Lambdas then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have the PFEs which have the same signature as the ER4 with the grey filters, Lambdas have the same kind of signature. I find it funny this ability that the SR-003 have to be very analytical and to sound much darker than these IEMs at the same time, it's really something special.
 As for the Lambda Pro from what i've read it has a relaxed midrange but a very pronounced treble just like the original Signature... so i don't know, some people like it, some don't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The 202 is supposed to be close to Novas.

 The LNS/T1 seems like a nice combo, at least in Europe!


----------



## almuzzi

Yeah the first thing that hit me (in the ears) when i tried the SR001 was the detail retrieval. Now the etys are supposed to be the most detailed IEMS out there, and they are, at least amongst the non-custom, BA IEMs. But the stax were something else. 

 The midrange detail was awesome, timbre and soft dynamic changes were conveyed so well. I could hear the violinist rest his bow on the strings before the note, and decay was also so beautiful (concert hall reverb as well!). So i told myself, damn i gotta get me one of these. So now here i am. I'll try to get myself a pair of lamba pros then, thanks for the advice!

 Also, i need to decide on my source. Sigh working on such a limited budget sucks. My parents would kill me if they knew the amount im spending (out of my own wages)


----------



## mobbaddict

Yep i can't agree more about detail and midrange, the baby stax is quite fantastic for that.
 I don't have any experience with DACs but if your budget is really tight i'll just say that i get really good results with my s:flo 2, it has two wolfson chips (the same as the Cambridge DAC Magic for instance) and a powerful dedicated line out (which has as much juice as my entry level CDP). I really don't know how it compares with a DAC but all i can say is that there's not doubt my Lambda already sounds quite better than the 003 out of this very cheap rig


----------



## padam

If anybody is interested, KuboTEN is selling a SRM-717 from Japan (it has the voltage switch on the back). I was going to buy it originally but had to back off due to financial issues.


----------



## almuzzi

Seem like KuboTen is down at the moment 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'll try looking for some lambda pros, and SR-2020, hope ill get one of those two at $300 or below. Oh and i have a chance to get a Thorens TD166 MkII at around $200, is that a good deal? Or should i spring for a V-DAC first and get the vinyl setup later?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *almuzzi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you ever tried the v dac? Is it good enough? Considering my budget is around $300 for the dac, im guessing that the vdac is the best i can get but if there are better options perhaps i might spring for them. 

 Im also thinking about going vinyl as an alternative...that should be suitable right?




_

 

For about that price you can get a used Musical Fidelity X-DAC v3, which should be better than a VDAC. The you can get an XPSU or Little Pinky separate power suppy for them. I have both, each running an XDACv3 and they seem about the same although the Pinky is generally cheaper. But they both move the XDAC up a couple of notches in performance, especially in bass and dynamics.

 You will see a recent discussion here about vinyl through headphones. I lived through the end of the vinyl period, am used to it and still have about 800 lp's. Vinly can be very good, especially with rock/pop music. Its limitations are more evident on classical, where the medium struggles to deal with the wider dynamics of classical music. In quiet passages you will hear surface noise and extremely loud passages will often mistrack or sound like mistarcking because the lp groove has been damaged.


----------



## c3p0

stax 4040 sig system owner here with qbd76 dac. Sounds pretty amazing must say. Wasnt impressed at first, but it has grown immensely on me!


----------



## green0153

Somebody certanly wants this 
 And the price is still low...

STAX ¿¿¶õ´É¥Ï¥¤¥Ö¥ê¥Ã¥È¥Ø¥Ã¥É¥Û¥ó¥¢¥ó¥×¡¡£Ó£Ò£Í¡Ý£Ô£² - Yahoo!¥ª¡¼¥¯¥·¥ç¥ó


----------



## Johnnie

The current bid is still considerably lower than what Spitzer asked for his. But then again, his was modified.


----------



## spritzer

It wasn't modified, I just replaced the PSU caps due to age which should be done to all Stax amps if they are 15+ years old. Having watched all Y!JP T2 auctions over the last few years or so I can safely say that all hell will break loose during the last half an hour.


----------



## Johnnie

Good point, spritzer. I did remember it wasn't entirely stock.


----------



## bralk

You need to clean up your PM inbox !! It´s filled to the max.


 cheers

 Tom


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Johnnie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The current bid is still considerably lower than what Spitzer asked for his. But then again, his was modified._

 

Closed at $6,500~.


----------



## spritzer

Told you it would turn crazy in the last 30 minutes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Through somebody like KuboTen you'd be looking at 7200$ plus shipping (inside Japan and to the buyer).


----------



## Michgelsen

What does that monster weigh anyway?


----------



## spritzer

Close to 20kg...


----------



## green0153

Wow that's a lot of weight!!


----------



## spritzer

There is a lot of iron in that PSU


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Close to 20kg..._

 

Well then, according to Audiophile's first law, it must sound very good.


----------



## spritzer

I thought the first law had something to do with bling and boutique parts hiding a crappy circuit design?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The T2 is nothing like that though, solid engineering and the weight that goes with it. That doesn't mean it can't be improved upon which is exactly why we are doing the T2DIY, with the permission of Stax.


----------



## Michgelsen

With the permission of Stax? Pretty cool! How is the progress on that project?


----------



## spritzer

It will be ready before CJ in June. What's holding us up now is the lack of time and some parts are on back order.


----------



## sonance

Hi guys - this is quite an amazing thread, if a little intimidating because of the sheer amount of information and volume of posts and areas of discussion. 

 I've been considering jumping in headfirst into a Stax rig. I'd like to keep my total costs for amp + phones under $4K. I have a couple of sources already (Benchmark DAC-1, Arcam CDP).

 It doesn't seem like SR-007/Omega IIs come up for sale very often, so I'm considering buying a new pair if I can't find a lightly used pair. 

 Where I'm really stuck, though, is on the amp. It seems like people prefer the older 717 over the current 727 amps, and most of the after-market amps are tube designs. I've generally shied away from tube amps because of negative experiences in the speaker world (not with sound quality necessarily but reliability, the need for tube rolling, and overall power), but it seems like tubes are the way to go with Stax after-market amps.

 I'm wondering what my options are for after-market amps in the under 2K market? Or should I look for used Stax amps? So far I've identified the Woo Audio GES as a candidate.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sonance* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys - this is quite an amazing thread, if a little intimidating because of the sheer amount of information and volume of posts and areas of discussion. 

 I've been considering jumping in headfirst into a Stax rig. I'd like to keep my total costs for amp + phones under $4K. I have a couple of sources already (Benchmark DAC-1, Arcam CDP).

 It doesn't seem like SR-007/Omega IIs come up for sale very often, so I'm considering buying a new pair if I can't find a lightly used pair. 

 Where I'm really stuck, though, is on the amp. It seems like people prefer the older 717 over the current 727 amps, and most of the after-market amps are tube designs. I've generally shied away from tube amps because of negative experiences in the speaker world (not with sound quality necessarily but reliability, the need for tube rolling, and overall power), but it seems like tubes are the way to go with Stax after-market amps.

 I'm wondering what my options are for after-market amps in the under 2K market? Or should I look for used Stax amps? So far I've identified the Woo Audio GES as a candidate._

 

The issue for you is getting an amp that will drive your preferred ESP - SR-007/Omega IIs - sufficiently.

 You may note throughout the thread a consistent indication that these ESPs need a good deal of voltage swing so in the under 2K market I'd be suggesting a KGSS, the 717 or, if you could obtain one, an ExStata DIY.

 For my less demanding music I use a Woo GES and I also run my SR-007/Omega IIs through SRD7Pro Energisers connected to speaker amps (which might be an option for you to consider if you already have a good speaker amp). Although this is a compromise, in comparison to the SQ achieved by those with WES, KGBH, etc, I find the results more than satisfactory for most music in my collections.

 Of course, YMMV.

 My best to you in finding the combination that works for you within that more than reasonable budget.

 PS - I got to 1500 posts with that! Woo Hoo!


----------



## Currawong

Getting close to 13k posts, aren't we due for "The Stax Thread 3"? Will anyone object if I started a new one?


----------



## n3rdling

I like it how it is...one less thread to search through.


----------



## spritzer

The only reason this thread was started was due to a bug in the forum software which caused the pages to be very wide. That isn't the case any more so I can't see any need to open up a new thread. 

 As for the question above, 717 and KGSS are your only choices. There will be some new SS amps in the future but they will be very expensive indeed and I'm not sure anybody will build them commercially.


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Getting close to 13k posts, aren't we due for "The Stax Thread 3"? Will anyone object if I started a new one?_

 

I will!
 Really do not see why we need to make another thread, spreading the information even more.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the question above, 717 and KGSS are your only choices. There will be some new SS amps in the future but they will be very expensive indeed and I'm not sure anybody will build them commercially._

 

Can you elaborate more on what these SS amps might be? I'm still going with the KGSS, but I could definitely see an upgrade in the future provided we're talking less than $10K here, and somebody will build it for me.


----------



## spritzer

One is a redesign of the KGSS with a new PSU. The other is something completely new and would be in the 10k+$ region for a commercial product.


----------



## kodama

Hi,
 I just registered to head-fi because I'm restoring my Lambda Pro and SRM1/II B-Type. Therefore I have some questions.
 A german dealer recommends to switch Voltage input from 220 to 240 because of increasing Voltage(230 and more) by the powerplants in the recent past.
 Which max input Voltage is critical for the 220V setting of the SRM?
 TIA


----------



## spritzer

There is no set rule for this but it's easier on the amp if the input voltage is equal or lower to the mains voltage. There isn't a regulated PSU in any of the Stax amps so any changes in mains voltage will be multiplied by 1.4 over to the internal circuitry.


----------



## kodama

Do you have any values for adjustment the amps or at least MPs on the pcb? (this thread is a little overcharged)


----------



## spritzer

Here are the correct voltage settings:

  Quote:


 *Jumpers:*

 1,3,6 is definitely 100 volts

 2,4,6 is definitely 120 volts

 3,5 is definitely 220 volts

 2,5 is definitely 240 volts


*Hardwired:*

 100v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the ACplug+Brown+Green

 117v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple

 240v:
 Blue+White wire from the AC plug
 Purple+Gray


----------



## El_Doug

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only reason this thread was started was due to a bug in the forum software which caused the pages to be very wide. That isn't the case any more so I can't see any need to open up a new thread. 

 As for the question above, 717 and KGSS are your only choices. There will be some new SS amps in the future but they will be very expensive indeed and I'm not sure anybody will build them commercially._

 

if you actually do end up building the 2000v swing dc-coupled SS amp, I will be the first in line to sell my BA and R10's for it!


----------



## PianoForte

Dear Audio-sensei/gakusei (teachers/students),
 I live in Japan and can get stax for relatively cheap. I can get the stax 3050II system for about 830.00 usd here. I think I also have the ability to get a 404 le. I could save some money and buy the 404 le with the 323ii, the regular 404 with the 006tii... I really don't know where to start. I listen to a lot of orchestral music, but also enjoy jazz...mostly acoustic music. I've tried to gather a consensus by browsing the depths of the head-fi caves, but this adventure is similar to bringing the ring to mordor. Please help relieve the burden so I can (here's where the lord of the rings analogy falls apart) obtain my precious! Thanks in advance!


----------



## green0153

Buy the SRM-1/Mk2 used on yahoo auctions and the 404 LE.That would be my choice.


----------



## padam

You should also consider an SRM-T1 like this one: SRM-T1 @hifido
 Great match for most Lambdas.


----------



## PianoForte

I think I've read this regarding stax's older products, but just to confirm, the general consensus is that the SRM-T1 and SRM-1 are generally considered better than the newer amps?


----------



## padam

Yes and of these two the SRM-T1 which is better however a few phones might match the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro better, the Lambdas are generally better with tubes thrown in. The current SRM-006tA is quite similar to it but the parts used are not quite the same so the SRM-T1 is considered to be a bit better sonically.
 The newest amp, the SRM-600 Limited is probably better than an SRM-T1 because they switched to better tubes which also added a bit of power but it is very expensive.


----------



## Michgelsen

Has anyone of you fellow Stax nuts heard about the SR-404 *Mk2* yet?

 I had a SR-404LE on order in Germany, but unfortunately all the LE's are sold out. Now the owner of the shop offers me a new SR-404 Mk2, which he claims sounds identical to the SR-404LE.

 What's up with this? The Stax site doesn't list it yet, nor can I find anything on the interwebs about, mainly because all the search results are filled with '404's and 'Mk2's that are not what I'm looking for.


----------



## padam

That is a logical step to take, however it could hurt the SR-404LE's value if the Mk2 will be as good as the LE.


----------



## TimJo

I suppose the LE's could get rebranded after the first 1000, and maybe they aren't that limited after all.


----------



## catscratch

I sure hope they update the 404 and fix those mids. But I haven't heard anything on that front either.


----------



## edstrelow

Does the 404 sound much different from the 404LE? The few comparisons I have read didn't think so.


----------



## spritzer

The LE is more like the SR-SC1 i.e. it doesn't suck like the standard 404.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The LE is more like the SR-SC1 i.e. it doesn't suck like the standard 404._

 

I don't think many people have heard the SR-SC1, ceratinly I haven't, what are the sonic differences?


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the 404 sound much different from the 404LE? The few comparisons I have read didn't think so._

 

There really is no question that the 404LE is a considerable jump from the 404 and very different despite only minor differences (cable, diaphragm treatment, and color). Many that are not fans of the 404 (myself included), own and love the 404LE.


----------



## TimJo

I'm new to Stax, and the LE's are the first I've owned, so take my opinion with that in mind. My guess is the major difference is the ear pads being leather, which must effect the frequency spectrum as perceived the listener and helps create the amazing strength and _clarity_ in the bass. The other factor probably is the cable they used. I'm not a big cable guy, but it has to make a difference. I just got a pair of the Beyer T1's and the cable they used makes a big difference in the sound I'm sure.


----------



## Apollo

I called a local Stax dealer today (London, UK) asking whether they had any SR-001s in stock. My girlfriend's dog ate mine during the weekend, so I am looking to have them replaced. 

 The dealer told me that they were discontinued and out of stock (I knew they were discontinued) but that Stax would probably release some new portables towards the end of the year. Do any of you guys know anything more about this? I am starting to question whether I should wait to see if they release anything new or replace my par now , although I am leaning towards the latter. 

 Thanks


----------



## krmathis

^ I have read the same from others around here. That Stax is working on a SR-001MK2 successor.
 Do not think that any further details have come out though. If we can expect an all new model or simply a SR-001MK3...

 Definitely interested!


----------



## krmathis

Sorry!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The LE is more like the SR-SC1 i.e. it doesn't suck like the standard 404._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dinan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There really is no question that the 404LE is a considerable jump from the 404 and very different despite only minor differences (cable, diaphragm treatment, and color). Many that are not fans of the 404 (myself included), own and love the 404LE._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TimJo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm new to Stax, and the LE's are the first I've owned, so take my opinion with that in mind. My guess is the major difference is the ear pads being leather, which must effect the frequency spectrum as perceived the listener and helps create the amazing strength and clarity in the bass. The other factor probably is the cable they used. I'm not a big cable guy, but it has to make a difference. I just got a pair of the Beyer T1's and the cable they used makes a big difference in the sound I'm sure._

 

I am trying to get information from people who have both phones, or at least have done a proper side-by-side comparison. The first report, I recall some while back in this impossibly large thread was that there wasn't much difference between the LE and the 404.

 However there are some claims that the LE is better than the 404 but generally not backed by any actual comparison of the 2 phones

 At the same time there has been a fair bit of 404 bashing which I don't think has been called for either. To my ears, its problems, if you think they have some, can be solved by removing the foam backing behind the drivers. 

 The phones are basically the same using the same earcups and drivers however the LE has a different cable and earpad. It is also black and I hope that is not what people really like about these phones.

 The 404 uses the top of the line cable also used in the 4070 and 007, whereas the LE uses a newer cable. If the new cable is an improvement I would like to know because possibly we should be looking at replacing the 007 cables.

 As regards the change of the earpads, there could be a number of factors at work here. Possibly the change to a real leather pad causes some change in seal or reflectivity of sound although I doubt that there is much in the reflectivity of leather vs fake leather. If the new pads make a difference in position of the driver, eg. moving the drivers further away from the eardrum, that could be a factor. Of course you could put some extra material under the 404 pads to get somewhat the same effect.

 At any rate when you find that design variations give a better result it is useful to figure out why. But first you have to establish the actual differences in sound.


----------



## spritzer

If anybody that compares a normal 404 to the LE and hears no difference the something is very wrong with their ears. 

 The difference is clearly in the diaphragm and not the cable, earpads etc. I've done extensive testing on the SR-404 and even with extreme damping their basic character was still there. Simply removing the foam on the SR-404 certainly didn't do the trick, far from it. I needed to go to ortho levels of damping to tame the midrange peak after completely rebuilding the phones. There is a thread about this process somewhere else... 

 This character of the 404 is beneficial in the SR-Sigma chassis but not so much in the Lambda frame. I'm not so sure though that we are dealing with the same drivers in the 4070, same basic structure but the diaphragm could be radically different. The only way to really know would be to get replacement drivers and see how they are marked. 

 As for the SR-SC1, it's been a while since I had my last set but it is like a grown up version of the SR-Lambda, more extension and presence but similar tonality.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If anybody that compares a normal 404 to the LE and hears no difference the something is very wrong with their ears. 

 The difference is clearly in the diaphragm and not the cable, earpads etc. I've done extensive testing on the SR-404 and even with extreme damping their basic character was still there. Simply removing the foam on the SR-404 certainly didn't do the trick, far from it. I needed to go to ortho levels of damping to tame the midrange peak after completely rebuilding the phones. There is a thread about this process somewhere else... 

 This character of the 404 is beneficial in the SR-Sigma chassis but not so much in the Lambda frame. I'm not so sure though that we are dealing with the same drivers in the 4070, same basic structure but the diaphragm could be radically different. The only way to really know would be to get replacement drivers and see how they are marked. 

 As for the SR-SC1, it's been a while since I had my last set but it is like a grown up version of the SR-Lambda, more extension and presence but similar tonality._

 

Interesting speculation but I see the same red-framed driver in the LE as in the regular 404. Nor is there any mention of such a change although I see a disclaimer at the bottom of the pdf page about specifications may be changed without notice.

 I guess it must be difficult to maintain quality control on the drivers and I would assume there is some variation in all stats based on tension problems with the diaphragm. 

 I am surprised that you discount the effect of the cable and pads.

 At any rate I am still waiting on an actual comparison and review.


----------



## Philimon

A 404LE pad comparison from earlier in this thread (as well as an old pad vs new pad style comparison). I do believe that a thinner pad and pad material would make a large difference in sound as well (these reviews agree). Simply putting pressure on the cups while wearing the headphones so that the drivers are closer to my ears make the bass clearer/deeper, and less midbass (on quick listens mind you, and whilst trying not to cover the back of the cups so that I created reflections/closed in sound)):

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just replaced the pads on my SR-202 this morning with the leather pads from the 404 Limted Edition. Stax part number is EP234-LIMITED. It took about 2 hours because the adhesive tape is VERY sticky and hard to remove. I managed to get the old pads off with minimal damage but I think it did stretch out the protective foam covering the inside of the driver a bit.

 The new pads have a separate protective element of some sort of woven cloth that drops in the oval cutout and seems to be a much better system. After cleaning all the old tape off (using 91% alcohol and a microfiber cloth), the new double sided adhesive was applied and the leather pads stuck down. It seems like the leather pad can be removed with a little less effort than the vinyl, but it is still stuck down very well.

 Here's some pictures, the pads are a bit thinner and the drivers may be a little closer to the ears but if the ear touches the inner protective element I can hardly feel it and it is not irritating at all. I haven't used them for any length of time but the 5 minutes or so I tried them there was no sign of ears sweating.

 I had most of my rig disassembled form yesterday's Houston head-fi meet (will post pics later this afternoon or this evening) so I just listened to the CD player output into the SRM-252 without using my usual external DAC. Also the SRM-252 did not have a chance to warm up and I know this improves the sound a little once it does. Still, the sound is mostly unchanged, perhaps a very small decrease in the spaciousness or soundstage, but this may be due to not using the external DAC. But the overall balance did not seem to change. I will listen more extensively tonight once I reassemble my gear and let everything warm up.

http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2001.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2002.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kh6idf/Stax...0pads%2005.jpg_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, here's my impression of the sound with the 404LE pads on my SR-202. I've listened for an hour or so with the SRM-252 amp warmed up, and everything restored to the original configuration (using external DAC, etc) I had with the "stock" SR-202 before.

 The sound has changed, the high frequencies are a little more rolled off now. But the overall balance seems to be improved, with the midrange and bass warming up slightly. It now has a well-balanced sound. My first impression with the stock sr-202 was "where's the bass?" and I thought they were slightly thin or bright sounding, but now I don't think I would have that impression if I had heard these for the first time. 

 The high frequency rolloff accounts for the slight loss in detail / air / soundstage I reported earlier. Since I have a DEQ2496 in the loop, I may try to bring the HF extension back to it's original level with some careful equalization.

 But the comfort factor has definitely improved. I can wear these for an hour or more now with no need to take them off. No ear sweating at all. This is really a good thing.

 I believe the HF rolloff may be caused by a combination of the new dust protection material (the oval-shaped woven cloth used instead of the more transparent original foam) and the leather pads absorbing / dampening the highest frequencies compared to the more reflective vinyl. It's possible the distance to the ears or the angle has changed but I don't feel this has as much influence as the filter material or the composition of the pads.

 Upon reflection, what these remind me of now is the frequency balance I heard with the SR-007 (heard them for the first time this weekend at the Houston meet). They also seemed to have a slight HF rolloff and a nice even balance across the frequency range. They also use the same filter and pad material.

 So I think the comfort improvement is worth switching to the new pads, but a little of the magic (soundstage / air / HF extension) is gone. I will see if I can bring it back with EQ but what I have right now is a nice warm, even balance, reminds me of the sound of my Magneplanar speakers._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's about the sound you get from the SR404LE. Of course there are likely some other differences between a 202 and 404 with the LE pads, such as in the detail or something else, once you factor in the differences between the 404 and 202 drivers and cable. I have read that the 404 are brighter than the 202, and that is why those drivers work so well in the old vintage Sigma driver housing - so I imagine the 404 with the LE pads might not be as rolled off as the 202 with them. But I would bet that these pads do make up a lot of or most of the difference between the regular 404 that Spritzer says have the upper midrange etch and the 404LE that don't have as much or any of that._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My ears/brain are already adjusting to the new sound of the SR-202 with the 404LE pads. It doesn't sound rolled off anymore, just really well balanced and detailed. Plenty of bass now and a beautiful midrange. I am not going to use any EQ, my brain is rapidly acclimating and it now sounds just right._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To be honest your impressions reflect very well my own as I have recently replaced my 303's old pads (with foam) with the new kind (with oval-shaped woven cloth) - normal pads, not LE. My system was almost perfectly balanced before, maybe just a bit rolled off in the highs (!). I definitely concur that the new pads loose some of the magic of the old ones, but it's not necessarily related to the highs - more to the mids IMO - and it is not entirely because of the cloth. Actually, *it's the pads themselves that "loose the magic"*, the cloth only darkens the sound, adding bass and rolling off treble as well as, I think (not sure about this), reducing a bit the soundstage width and sense of air and space, as you have already suspected. I know this because I have cut the foam off the old pads (it was disintegrating because of too much usage and probably because of the friction with the new silvery metallic mesh that replaced the old black one made of brass two years ago) and I have installed the woven cloth alternatively on the new pads as well as on the old ones. I have switched between the two many times, without sticking the pads to the baffle with the double sided adhesive yet. 

 The woven cloth fits pretty well on the old pads in the hole left by the foam, but its edge (the oval shaped artificial leather ring) must remain in close contact with the pad - if it separates too much and doesn't seal the inner side of the pad anymore the sound changes to a shockingly degree, I cannot explain why, and becomes much brighter, livelier, with highs to die for, better air, soundstage and perhaps even better dynamics; however, unfortunately it also looses much too much bass quantitatively as well as bass impact and becomes unbalanced and somewhat tiring. Almost the same sound (perhaps the change is even slightly greater) one can get by installing the wove cloth not in contact with the pad but by simply placing in the oval hole of the baffle, in contact with the metallic mesh I was mentioning before.

 Back to the comparison between the actual pads. I was refraining from writing about this because I find it hard to describe and hard to explain. The new pads add bass themselves and make the midrange more subdued. The old pads sound more lively. But the most interesting fact is that, apparently unrelated to the frequency response, *the old pads allows the listener to hear more easily all the sound and the relationships between them, thus gaining better access to the whole musical gestalt*. It's not that they are more detailed, the new pads might even sound a tiny little bit more precise and relaxed (I'm not sure), but it's simply as I said above and I cannot describe or explain it better. It's much easier for me to hear the music with the old pads, pure joy with no effort on my side, while the new ones are boring by comparison. The difference might not be very obvious from the first moment, but something was missing and I couldn't put the finger on it. Then, returning to the old pads was such a relief! I was listening to music again. I couldn't explain and thus I found it hard to believe, so I have tried repeatedly to give the new pads a chance during the past few weeks, but every time the attempt ended the same way. Now I only use the old pads with the new woven cloth. 

 Please bear in mind that my modest but nice sounding system is better suited to a livelier and brighter sounding Stax phone because it is on the warm, dark and colorful side. And colored too, I agree, but I repeat myself, it sounds pretty good (and really great for the money). In a more neutral system the new pads might offer better tonal balance, but I'm sure the stuff about musicality or sonic gestalt I wrote above would still hold true._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kh6idf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don Quichotte,

 Are your new 303 pads made of 'artificial leather' like the old ones? I assume only the 404LE pads are real leather which is why I ordered them instead of the new 202 pads.

 If they are artificial leather, I would think they wouldn't change the sound much unless they were a different thickness or shape. The biggest difference would be in the dust protection material.

 I would have liked to get a full thickness 202 pad made of real leather, these 404LE pads are thinner and place the ears closer to the drivers. In fact the outer edges of my ears touch the dust protection cloth now, but it is not irritating as the cloth is soft and not scratchy._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Don Quichotte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new pads are made of artificial leather, just like the old ones, but they are noticeably thinner, I suppose they have the same thickness as your 404LE pads. The cloth changes the tonality compared to the foam of the old pads, but the character of the sound remains the same - pretty much as if you would alter a bit the position of the bass and treble knobs of an integrated amplifier. The new pads themselves, on the other hand, result in a less linear tonal modification which is as big or almost as big as the change induced by the cloth; being less linear and perhaps also for other reasons which escape me, the tonal change induced by the new pads results in a sound that seems a bit different in character - comparatively more shut in mids, maybe less snappy in the mids, less spacious, cohesive or expressive, I don't know, I'm not so sure now of a detailed comparison done from the memory. The main idea is, as I wrote in my previous post, less music - and of this I am sure, I couldn't forget the difference. Of course, all IMHO, in my system, etc._


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting speculation but I see the same red-framed driver in the LE as in the regular 404. Nor is there any mention of such a change although I see a disclaimer at the bottom of the pdf page about specifications may be changed without notice._

 

The 404 uses the same driver as the LNS and LNC but they don't sound anything like each other. All the older Lambda drivers look alike and all the last round drivers look the same yet sound nothing alike. The bottom line is that we have no idea what's inside any of these drivers without splitting them open. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I guess it must be difficult to maintain quality control on the drivers and I would assume there is some variation in all stats based on tension problems with the diaphragm._

 

That isn't the case as any changes Stax makes are by choice, not sloppy craftsmanship. You can take a 1982 L-Pro and it will sound identical to the same model made in 1990 with all things being equal. Same goes for all the SR-Lambdas, LNS and L-Sigs I've owned, dozens and dozens of them. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am surprised that you discount the effect of the cable and pads._

 

I my experience they only contribute subtle changes, nothing more. Now if Stax had moved onto an even wider cable that could mean something...


----------



## edstrelow

It could be that Stax has their production line working at a very high level of operation but I would guess that the Stax drivers exhibit some degree of variability and need to be checked.

 This is what I saw being done some years ago when I worked with engineers who made electrostatic drivers for air-borne sonars. Each driver was given at a one or more frequency response tests, at different angles of incidence. The measured response of these drivers had to fall within certain parameters or they were rejected.

 One of the reasons for the high cost of stat phones could be the cost of making more drivers than make it into the products. 

 It's too bad that the Stax people don't contribute something to this forum to explain their operation. Suely they can't be unaware of this thread. 

 A few years ago, when I had Stax Japan rebuild a Sigma as a Sigma pro I remember their willingness to communicate by fax about issues beyond the immediate rebuild. But my last effort at communication drew a blank. 
 .


----------



## spritzer

Every Stax driver is matched into pairs but the basic design of the drivers makes it easy to crank out identical units year after year. There must be some rejection rate though so that will factor into the cost plus the simple fact that any ES drivers will always be much more expensive to make then any dynamic kind. 

 Stax maintains its distributors for just that reason, to have contact directly with the customers. It just so happens that the US distributor is worse then useless at everything. They can't even be bothered to supply the dealers.


----------



## n3rdling

Am I the only person who wears Lambdas in a way that makes my ear seal against the driver? My ears slip in between the earpads and driver and the earpads go all the way around my ears and press against my head. I don't understand the earpad reviews unless other people are wearing their Lambdas supra aurally and I'm the only person wearing them circumaural.


----------



## spritzer

No, that's how everybody should use them. The height of the earpads is a factor in the sound though but the Lambdas are far less susceptible to this then for instance the Omegas.


----------



## John Buchanan

The 404LE has flatter, real leather pads than the thicker synthetic pads of the 404.


----------



## PianoForte

Does anyone have any experience with the srm-600 limited? I can get a decent price for it in Japan, but i only want to dish the money out if I have some strong recommendations for users here.


----------



## paxeaxe23

Anyone know if there is any real difference between the 202 and the 303 ? I don't need the drive unit as I'm bulding the eXStata.


----------



## padam

The 303 is considerably brighter with a bigger soundstage but it also has an annoying upper midrange etch. A 202 is very hard to find without its amp, unfortunately.
 SR-404 Mk2, bring it on!


----------



## HONEYBOY

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paxeaxe23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know if there is any real difference between the 202 and the 303 ? I don't need the drive unit as I'm bulding the eXStata._

 

I too am very interested in the responses to this. I tried the 2050 system yesterday and was quite impressed with it. Very smooth, transparent and detailed sound. I was wondering what improvements are to be expected if I were to choose the 3050 system instead.


----------



## gilency

PianoForte 

 "Does anyone have any experience with the srm-600 limited? I can get a decent price for it in Japan, but i only want to dish the money out if I have some strong recommendations for users here"

 Not much information about it in this thread but here is some:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kds5000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks!

 Have very limited experience with Stax, so take my impressions with a large dose of salt. Here's my impressions for what it's worth:-

 I'd heard the O2 and HE60 through the Blue Hawaii at our local meet and wasn't blown away by it. Both had the clarity and detail, but not the lower and mid bass I wanted (especially for 80's rock music). 

 Ironically, it was my friend's humble rig - SR-404 Ltd/T1 combo that got my attention. Had the mid-bass weight and very forward vocals that I was looking for. Decided then and there that I wanted the SR-404 Ltd. Went to my local distributor and, as luck would have it, he had 1 SRM-600 Ltd and was prepared to give me a good price for both on the last day of 2009... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Brought my SRM-600 Ltd to my friend's place for a quick comparison with the T1 yesterday. Cans used were the Omega, SR-4070 and SR-404 Ltd. Through the SRM-600 Ltd, the SR-404 Ltd was the most forward and had the weightiest mid-bass. The Omega's mids were more recessed in comparison, but the clarity and low bass punch was breathtaking. All 4 of us liked the 4070 the least - we all said that it sounded like a dynamic can...

 As for the SR-404 Ltd paired with the T1 and SRM-600 Ltd, the general view was that the SRM-600 Ltd gave a punchier bass and had better overall control over the SR-404 Ltd than the T1. Difference wasn't so great to me, but my friend who owns the T1 said that it's pretty significant.

 I really like the SR-404 Ltd signature, so the SRM-600 Ltd seemed like the logical pairing. Even though they are fresh out of the box, I'm very happy with the combo, more so the more I listen with them (which isn't always the case). Half my dynamic cans will now have to find a new home...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Glad I took the leap to Stax... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

kds5000 is one of the few one around here who owns it, although there could be more. I suppose you could ask him directly.


----------



## tohenk2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PianoForte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have any experience with the srm-600 limited? I can get a decent price for it in Japan, but i only want to dish the money out if I have some strong recommendations for users here._

 

Yes, I have one. I think it is good with the 404LE and 4070. But then it was designed to go with the 404LE. It seems to have all kinds of enhancements when compared with other Stax amps (beter grade quality parts that is.) But - I do not have any real comparison with other amps. I listened to some after I bought this one and I think the SRM-600 is better, but that is based on shop-comparisons, so not ideally. And maybe coloured by the fact that I already own the thing. 
 BTW my SRM-600 is now converted by a Stax dealer in Amsterdam to 230V - and that makes a difference. There was some background hum if not grounded correctly. That hum greatly diminished after the conversion (most people didn't hear it when I demonstrated this - even when I told them what was there. And that was before the conversion, so properly grounded after the conversion the background is really "black").


----------



## Scooba

Quote:


 There was some background hum if not grounded correctly. That hum greatly diminished after the conversion 
 

I can confirm this for SRM-006T II. After I modded it to 220V, the hum was almost gone, even without grounding the case of the amp .


----------



## Scooba

[sorry for the double post] . Strange ...


----------



## Kabeer

Has anyone seen these Electrostatic headphones?
NordicNeuroLab - Making fMRI easy

 Seem rather interesting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## green0153

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kabeer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone seen these Electrostatic headphones?
NordicNeuroLab - Making fMRI easy

 Seem rather interesting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 


 Interesting...but I really don't think they sound good.
 It's nice to know that somebody else is building electrostatic headphones.Thanks


----------



## spritzer

The cable is most certainly Stax and the specs do point to a Lambda driver...


----------



## Kabeer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable is most certainly Stax and the specs do point to a Lambda driver..._

 

Closed Lambda!


----------



## spritzer

Sure looks like it. That opens up a whole can of worms though...


----------



## green0153

Well there were even closed Koss ESP950 made but they weren't much.
 I think nikongod had a pair.

 Somebody just has to buy them


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kabeer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone seen these Electrostatic headphones?
NordicNeuroLab - Making fMRI easy

 Seem rather interesting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





._

 

I sent a query to the US Distributer who mentioned that they do not provide an amplifier as there are already of-the shelf options. Again sounds like Stax.
 Certainly the driver specs look like a Lambda.

 Evidently someone is re-making these as sealed phones a la the 4070. I wonder if it is Stax or a third party? 

 Maybe there is some advantage in these medical applications in using non- magnetic drivers. For whatever its worth these are "FDA approved." 

 They are also working on an earbud system.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe there is some advantage in these medical applications in using non- magnetic drivers. For whatever its worth these are "FDA approved."_

 

No, it probably just means that they went to the effort of having them certified for the application.

 Medical device certification is a _very_ difficult but lucrative process.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, it probably just means that they went to the effort of having them certified for the application.

 Medical device certification is a very difficult but lucrative process._

 

Since the "M" in "fMRI" refers to magnetic, I suspect that you could have problems placing magnetic drivers inside the magnetic field of an MRI machine. Maybe thats why they went electrostatic.


----------



## Beefy

Fair point.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since the "M" in "fMRI" refers to magnetic, I suspect that you could have problems placing magnetic drivers inside the magnetic field of an MRI machine. Maybe thats why they went electrostatic._

 

Those magnets are around 4 Gauss I believe. They will pull anything with iron out of your hands before you enter the MRI ring. I've played with them a bit. VERY impressive magnet!

 Are the Stax drivers non Ferrous?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Right now they use headphones where the transducer in the another room from the MRI machine's magnets, with long air tubes between transducer and headphones to conduct the sound. They're pretty bad sounding.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *les_garten* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the Stax drivers non Ferrous?_

 

Generally copper or brass, so only magnetic by contamination of the alloy.


----------



## Michgelsen

I saw a modified HE60 for the same purpose in a medical article somewhere a long time ago. It is indeed the magnetic field of the (f)MRI scanner that causes problems with dynamic headphones or anything else with metal in it. The HE60 uses plastic stators IIRC. The magnets are so strong that it can transform a coin for example into a dangerous projectile.
 They have closed the 'phones because such a scanner can be as loud as 100dB for the patient. It is both hearing protection, a way for the doctors to communicate with the patient and a way to make the whole procedure less stressful for the patient.


----------



## Michgelsen

Double post.


----------



## Kabeer

I read the Stax SR-3 is 200v, and normal bias phones/amps are 230v.
 If I used the SR-3 out of normal bias sockets on say a SRD-7, would it be bad news? (or make it better?) . Little bit confused here.

 And re:MRI
 Yup thats basically it, you cant use magnets (therefore dynamic cans) in a MRI machine, and the machine is crazy loud so it has to be closed and very isolating.
 Stats fit the bill, but supposedly the closed forms (there is a closed ESP950 too) sound poo due to the closed nature where it's originally an open design.


----------



## spritzer

All normal bias cans prior to the 1977 SR-Sigma used a 200V bias and the SRD units had 200V bias supplies. There was no harm in switching to 230V though, it just makes the phones a bit more efficient.


----------



## Kabeer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All normal bias cans prior to the 1977 SR-Sigma used a 200V bias and the SRD units had 200V bias supplies. There was no harm in switching to 230V though, it just makes the phones a bit more efficient._

 

Thanks Spritzer, thats cool then, I can use them with an SRD7 later on too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## KrypticMind

Just joined Team Stax! I'm blown away by how crystal clear they sound, coming from AD2Ks and a roommate's K702.

 On a side note, I think there may be a very slight channel imbalance on my SRM-1/MK2 Pro. I'm pretty sure the problem is not with the Stax as the imbalance appears on both. Is there a way to "fix" this?


----------



## n3rdling

The volume knob actually consists of two knobs built into one: the large one and the dial in the front of the knob. Turn both all the way to the left so that there is no sound coming out of the headphones and the knobs lock, and then adjust volume by turning the large back part of the knob. The front part of the knob is to adjust the channel balance and is likely out of place in your case.


----------



## KrypticMind

Thanks, it did the trick. That's a pretty nifty way of implementing channel balancing.


----------



## mypasswordis

Congrats on finding a SRM-1 Mk2! Glad you like the SR-5NB, it's a good headphone.


----------



## dyna10x

Greetings team stax. I am sitting here enjoying Pink Floyd WYWH CBS mastersound LP through my recent aquisition of lambda + srm1/mk2 pro. What a fantastic combo I could not be happier. This is incredible SQ for such a tiny cost compared to what one could spend on HiFi. Stax rule!


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Greetings team stax. I am sitting here enjoying Pink Floyd WYWH CBS mastersound LP through my recent aquisition of lambda + srm1/mk2 pro. What a fantastic combo I could not be happier. This is incredible SQ for such a tiny cost compared to what one could spend on HiFi. Stax rule!_

 

Stax Headphone and Pink Floyd is an excellent combo imo. Some told me that STAX wouldn't have the 'punch' for Pink Floyd music, but i think that STAX Headphones carry out all the details of their music, which contains so much sound effects!


----------



## dyna10x

Yes I think they have plenty of punch and the bass is amazing in both depth (particularly for a phone that is supposed to be bass light according to some) and detail with quality recordings. I sometimes find myself daydreaming about the luscious bass.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KrypticMind* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just joined Team Stax! I'm blown away by how crystal clear they sound, coming from AD2Ks and a roommate's K702.

 On a side note, I think there may be a very slight channel imbalance on my SRM-1/MK2 Pro. I'm pretty sure the problem is not with the Stax as the imbalance appears on both. Is there a way to "fix" this?_

 


 It could be the dual volume knob. Have you made sure both channels are at the same level on the knob itself? (Sorry if you've checked this already.)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dyna10x* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Greetings team stax. I am sitting here enjoying Pink Floyd WYWH CBS mastersound LP through my recent aquisition of lambda + srm1/mk2 pro. What a fantastic combo I could not be happier. This is incredible SQ for such a tiny cost compared to what one could spend on HiFi. Stax rule!_

 

Yes indeed. Pink Floyd sounds great through my Lambda Signature /Srm1mK2and through my old Lambda Nova /SRM3. The music is supremely well recorded and should be a lesson to many other groups. Unfortunately it isn't. 

 Their records have sold well over the years and still attract young listeners. I was introduced to them by my then 11-year old daughter. When we went to a Roger Waters concert in Anaheim, the place was packed with more young listeners than people my age. He also appealed to an ethinc mix, I saw lots of Hispanics although few Blacks in the audience. 

 The various Lambdas can be decent rock phones. They are somewhat unforgiving and you need to have good sources and it helps to pay attention to tweaks like power cables.


----------



## mypasswordis

The Lambdas are certainly more forgiving than the SR-X Mk3 and SR-X Pro, and I assume the 4070 as well.


----------



## progo

Agh I just sold my Stax 2020 setup. They were on loan for months before this but I instantly began to miss them. I may not see the pair ever again.

 l:


----------



## KrypticMind

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mypasswordis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on finding a SRM-1 Mk2! Glad you like the SR-5NB, it's a good headphone.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They remind me a lot of my late AD2000 by being upfront, but they have a little more bass to them. I've been listening more lately to my Lambda Pros, so I can't say as much as I'd like about the 5NB besides my agreement with other Head-Fiers that they are pretty similar to Grados in a sense.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *progo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agh I just sold my Stax 2020 setup. They were on loan for months before this but I instantly began to miss them. I may not see the pair ever again.

 l:_

 

I did the same, but found a new set at KuboTEN. Just ordered new ear pads for the 202. I am trying out the new leather pads made for the 404 LE.

 cheers


----------



## yale.reinstein

Hello Stax thread!

 I'm thinking of putting together a small Stax travel package. So 2 questions for you guys.

 First, I need a DAC. If you have any experience with matching the SRM-252 to a comparable DAC please see my thread here. Post even if what you have to say is not what I want to hear (I have some specific requirements)!

 Also, did I hear the SR-003 is being replaced? Is this true? Just a rumor? A dream? Should I wait a bit?

 Thanks guys


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yale.reinstein* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, did I hear the SR-003 is being replaced? Is this true? Just a rumor? A dream? Should I wait a bit?_

 

There are rumors saying that Stax is working on an SR-001 MK2 successor, and hence I would not be surprised if they release an SR-003 successor as well. As they use almost identical earphones (just different cable plug).

 Not much info out there though.


----------



## nsx_23

Does anyone have a good recommendatino on a case for the SR-404 that doesn't cost a small fortune?


----------



## The Monkey

Pelican makes some nice cases, but they can get bulky. How much are you looking to spend?


----------



## mypasswordis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KrypticMind* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 They remind me a lot of my late AD2000 by being upfront, but they have a little more bass to them. I've been listening more lately to my Lambda Pros, so I can't say as much as I'd like about the 5NB besides my agreement with other Head-Fiers that they are pretty similar to Grados in a sense._

 

Oh nice you got a pair of Lambda Pros too. I like the both of them a lot in different ways, and you could definitely stop right here with your current rig and be perfectly satisfied. I've gone a lot further than that and have gone through a ton of headphones, just to find out that I would be perfectly happy with something like your rig.


----------



## Br777

Im looking at some LAMBDA PRO'S for around $255, but the seller says

[size=x-small][size=small]"Thin mesh in one ear speaker is torn, but this is cosmetic only." -

 can this be remedied by replacing the earpad?

 sounds like a real deal if this coud easily be fixed
 [/size][/size]


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Br777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im looking at some LAMBDA PRO'S for around $255, but the seller says

[size=x-small][size=small]"Thin mesh in one ear speaker is torn, but this is cosmetic only." -

 can this be remedied by replacing the earpad?

 sounds like a real deal if this coud easily be fixed
 [/size][/size]_

 


 Yes.
 New pads have new foam with them. About $40.00/pair,


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Br777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im looking at some LAMBDA PRO'S for around $255, but the seller says

[size=x-small][size=small]"Thin mesh in one ear speaker is torn, but this is cosmetic only." -

 can this be remedied by replacing the earpad?

 sounds like a real deal if this coud easily be fixed
 [/size][/size]_

 

Yes, just replace the earpads. They come with new mesh.
 $40 (minus 5% off) at Audio Cubes II

 The price looks fair as well, as long as they are in nice condition apart from the pads.


----------



## gilency

I got a taste of a real soundstage last wednesday at the McCallum Theater in Palm Desert with Kiri Te Kanawa and Frederica von Stade.
 It is a small theater with nice acoustics and an "intimate atmosphere".
 I immediate listened to Kiri's CD's when I got back home with my Sigma Pro/eXStata. Of course is not the same, but the sound coming from my Sigma ain't to bad when compared with the real thing!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got a taste of a real soundstage last wednesday at the McCallum Theater in Palm Desert with Kiri Te Kanawa and Frederica von Stade.
 It is a small theater with nice acoustics and an "intimate atmosphere".
 I immediate listened to Kiri's CD's when I got back home with my Sigma Pro/eXStata. Of course is not the same, but the sound coming from my Sigma ain't to bad when compared with the real thing! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I did the same when I got back from a night at the Musikverein in Vienna. There's no contest. The Musikverein is what the term "The Absolute Sound" is all about.


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The Musikverein is what the term "The Absolute Sound" is all about._

 

Unfortunately it is a 12 hour drive for me, but the Gewandhaus in Dresden is not that bad either - and it is only 7 hours away.

 Tom


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did the same when I got back from a night at the Musikverein in Vienna. There's no contest. The Musikverein is what the term "The Absolute Sound" is all about._

 

I bet you are right. Would love to hear it. Actually my dream is to go to Leipzig's Bach's festival...... may be next year....or the next....
 I will probably go to the Bach festival at Carmel first, or the Disney Center, which has wonderful acoustics.
 Joshua Bell also sounded fantastic at Palm Desert last month...
 Love to listen to live performances, but at home.... I have my Stax.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Br777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im looking at some LAMBDA PRO'S for around $255, but the seller says

[size=x-small][size=small]"Thin mesh in one ear speaker is torn, but this is cosmetic only." -

 can this be remedied by replacing the earpad?

 sounds like a real deal if this coud easily be fixed
 [/size][/size]_

 

~$250 for a Lambda Pro is near the high end of what I would pay for a Lambda Pro, so I don't think it's a great deal, but it's also not a ripoff, unless they're in lousy condition.


----------



## nsx_23

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pelican makes some nice cases, but they can get bulky. How much are you looking to spend?_

 

As little as possible. I'm not looking for something that can withstand a bus dropping on it; I just need something for transporting the headphones.

 Oh, and anyone know of a good place which doesn't charge a small fortune for new earpads? Mine seem to be slightly ungluing themselves along the bottom, and ebay seems to want at least $80 + shipping for a pair.... 

 Audiocubes has them for $39.95 + Shipping. Are they good? Never purchased from them before.

 Thanks.


----------



## The Monkey

I got mine from audiocubes because it was the most (semi)reasonable price I could find that I knew would ship on time--Yama's may have a better price, but I've never had good luck getting in touch with them. You might also try kuboten.


----------



## jung

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It just so happens that the US distributor is worse then useless at everything. They can't even be bothered to supply the dealers._

 

Does anyone have a list of Stax dealers in CA and WA state? Thanks.


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, and anyone know of a good place which doesn't charge a small fortune for new earpads? Mine seem to be slightly ungluing themselves along the bottom, and ebay seems to want at least $80 + shipping for a pair.... 

 Audiocubes has them for $39.95 + Shipping. Are they good? Never purchased from them before.

 Thanks._

 

Maybe you can ask the aussie stats distributor about the replacement pads. But then again the price on audiocubes looks pretty reasonable, and they're a similar price on ebay.


----------



## TimJo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jung* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have a list of Stax dealers in CA and WA state? Thanks._

 

I haven't checked in a month or two, so things could have changed, but when I bought my 404LE's, there were no local dealers. I had to use the interweb.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got a taste of a real soundstage last wednesday at the McCallum Theater in Palm Desert with Kiri Te Kanawa and Frederica von Stade.
 It is a small theater with nice acoustics and an "intimate atmosphere".
 I immediate listened to Kiri's CD's when I got back home with my Sigma Pro/eXStata. Of course is not the same, but the sound coming from my Sigma ain't to bad when compared with the real thing! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

How did I miss this concert?

 There's nothing like a good live concert to compare your phones with and the Sigma's are especially good at re-creating a vocal concert ambience.

 Not all halls sound great and not all hall locations sound great. One of my recent discoveries was that the upper balcony in the Dorothy Chandler in LA sounds better than most other locations in that hall. Evidently the reflection from the ceiling helps. The ticket lady for the LA Opera told me I was wasting my money on the founders circle/loge tickets, so I took her up on it and saved a bundle. Just bring some small binoculars.

 BTW for anyone in SoCal, I have one such an upper balcony second row ticket to the April 11 matinee of Gotterdamerung for sale on Ebay due to a clash of family events.


----------



## gilency

Did you miss Joshua Bell too? He was signing autographs after the concert.


----------



## Dinan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jung* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have a list of Stax dealers in CA and WA state? Thanks._

 

There is no list that I am aware of but pretty much your only bet for that area is Fred Kat of Katli Audio in California. I doubt he will have parts but it is worth a try.


----------



## indikator

hello, 
 my lambda driver is faulty and I'm going to replace it, any idea what kind of glue suitable for the purpose? I'm thinking of epoxy, is it good enough?
 also can I use speaker cloth as a replacement for the inside foam?
 and what glue is suitable to bond the earpad to the metal driver housing?
 any helpful advice is very appreciated


----------



## tohenk2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *indikator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hello, 
 my lambda driver is faulty and I'm going to replace it, any idea what kind of glue suitable for the purpose? I'm thinking of epoxy, is it good enough?
 also can I use speaker cloth as a replacement for the inside foam?
 and what glue is suitable to bond the earpad to the metal driver housing?
 any helpful advice is very appreciated
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I read something about using waterbased glues in the service notes for a K1000. All other seem to have "to agresive solvents".


----------



## Beefy

From memory, the Lambda drivers themselves are held together with polyurethane glue. So that is Excel or Gorilla glue.

 But I think that the drivers are held to the baffle with a thin double-sided tape style glue. The drivers should come with a sheet of this stuff.


----------



## John Buchanan

Wait for Birgir to comment on this - he did some gluing of the drivers to the baffle IIRC. Alternatively, Stax in Indonesia may be able to sell you the double sided tape that they use. Buy some new ear pads (the 202 ear pads from Audiocubes will fit perfectly, and come with mesh also) and use them. The old ones tear off. Gently clean off any adhesive residue and stick the new pads on (they have adhesive also) - making sure of the correct orientation of the pads.


----------



## spritzer

The drivers are indeed secured to the baffle with double sided tape and in the latest drivers it is also used to secure the protection grill to the drivers. I've experimented with securing both in place with polyurethane glue and it was a bit more controlled but it is far from easy to do.


----------



## JimP

Can anyone with direct experience comment on compatibility of 4070 with KGSS? eg, amp has sufficient power to drive? Any other issues mating this headphone with this specific amp? thanks for any input.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JimP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone with direct experience comment on compatibility of 4070 with KGSS? eg, amp has sufficient power to drive? Any other issues mating this headphone with this specific amp? thanks for any input._

 

I had a 4070 with the KGSS (that you now have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). Sounds very good indeed but in the end I greatly preferred sound signature of the O2. My personal opinion is that I wouldn't bother with the 4070 since you already have a SR-404LTD. In some ways the 4070 is overpriced (especially since it doesn't really offer much isolation).


----------



## indikator

thanks for the replies,
 ordering stax supply is not an option right now,
 so I went to nearby store yesterday but couldn't find polyurethane glue and I saw that super glue is very cheap, can I use that?

 the replacement drivers are not new but still have the metal grill anyway, so I will be glueing the metal grill to the baffle and not the driver to the grill, I think it won't be very hard isn't it? and I will blu tack it first to test the driver prior glueing

 side question, the thin plastic below the metal grill, is that the diaphgram or just a dust cover? or the diaphgram is the yellow shiny perforated metal?


----------



## spritzer

Superglue is utterly useless so I wouldn't bother with it. Find adhesive sheets at the local craftsstore and cut them to the right size/shape. 

 The plastic membranes you see are just the dust covers, the actual membrane is between the brass stators.


----------



## indikator

no love for epoxy then? I really want to try it as it is called iron glue here lol
 I've never seen adhesive sheets other than for paper but I will search though,

 so the driver is stator - membrane - stator? I always though it was the other way around


----------



## spritzer

Epoxy has its uses but you have no control over it.


----------



## SillyHoney

Hi guys! I'm joining Stax team 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can you guys give me some advices on $200-$400 DAC for my Stax SRS-2050A?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SillyHoney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys! I'm joining Stax team 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Can you guys give me some advices on $200-$400 DAC for my Stax SRS-2050A?




_

 

What transport will you use? PC, Mac, CD, DVD, Squeeze box, etc...? It makes a difference in what inputs a DAC has that we have to recommend, and with some the optical may be better than USB, etc...


----------



## SillyHoney

Oops! Sorry! I forgot to add I use computer and I prefer USB DAC


----------



## n3rdling

Does your computer not have a digital out?


----------



## The Monkey

Parasound D/AC 1000 or 1100


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SillyHoney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oops! Sorry! I forgot to add I use computer and I prefer USB DAC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you just need USB and want it to work off a laptop without needing to plug in, in the specified price range of $200-400, from cheapest to most expensive you could consider the iBasso D4, Pico DAC-only, or CEntrance DACport. The DACport is a 24/96 USB DAC/amp but it works very well as a DAC/preamp to feed a Stax amp (at least feeding an eXStatA driving SR-Lambda, HE60 and Jade).

 The D4 is very slightly brighter with less output level than the Pico DAC when using line out, but it's fairly balanced and very detailed and spacious. It has slightly less depth of stage vs the Pico, and slightly less refinement, so I tend to use the Pico more when all I need is a DAC. But for $219 the D4 is a very good deal, as it includes a nice headphone amp that runs off 9v battery or off the 5v USB without battery. But the Pico DAC "feels" a little more like I'm listening to a desktop DAC. 

 The DACport is slightly more refined (or smooth sounding) and warmer than the Pico DAC-only, with slightly more forward sound yet just as detailed and spacious. It's a very good portable DAC/amp for driving just about any IEM I have tried, and a few full size phones are still driven decently. If you think the Lambda are bright, this may be the DAC to use. It's not dull, and still has a shimmer in the highs, but it's not brittle or bright or sibilant, ever. However, I am told the SR-202 are not bright like other Lambdas.

 I am sure there are many other good DACs in that price range that I haven't heard. If you later wanted optical or coax input, the iBasso D10 or Headroom Micro DAC would be good ones to consider.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Another vote for the Pico...good neutral dac, but a touch too smooth on top.

 In your price range I am liking the Amb's gamma 2. A Mister X build will be under $400. I have had mine now for about 3 weeks and really liking it. I have enough hours on it to hear the differences of the 3 digital filters. Filter 1 is most like the Pico...The biggest strength of this dac so far is its very good imaging. Better than the Pico. And it is just slightly more forward too than the Pico. I have been using a Lavry DA10 with the 717/02 mk1 combo and although not doing any critical A/B listening, I am not missing the Lavry.( using filter 3) The gamma is very musical....


----------



## tako_tsubo

double post


----------



## gilency

The Gamma 2 is a hidden little gem.


----------



## SillyHoney

Wow thank you guys all, especially Tako and HeadphoneAddict.

 @ N3rdling: No it's the shame for Alienware to have ridiculous 3 analog imputs (7.1), not a single digital out.

 @ Monkey: The Parasound is pretty hard to find.

 Guess it comes down to Pico and y2. Pico used is a lot cheaper but your recommendations on y2 make it so tempting. $350 is pretty high for me at the moment but I guess I will save up a little bit more then pull the trigger on it.

 Thank you again


----------



## SillyHoney

Err... This is a stupid question but can you guys tell me which kind of cable I need to connect my iPhone/Laptop/DAC analog output to the SRM-252 MK II?






 I think it's 1/8" male to 4 (2 x L+R) RCA male right? Problem is that kind of cable seems not exist 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Or I need a stuff like that:


----------



## plaidplatypus

The second set of RCAs is your loop out. You can only plug one L and one R input into the amp. You can connect a second set of interconnects to the inputs of a headphone amp, receiver, tape deck, powered speakers, etc.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Just to make it completely clear, you need a mini stereo to RCA stereo cable. Straight Wire Musicable Mini to RCA 1M | HeadRoom Audio

 It doesn't matter what R or L jack you plug it into because they are connected to each other with a piece of wire internally.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SillyHoney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Err... This is a stupid question but can you guys tell me which kind of cable I need to connect my iPhone/Laptop/DAC analog output to the SRM-252 MK II?






 I think it's 1/8" male to 4 (2 x L+R) RCA male right? Problem is that kind of cable seems not exist 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Or I need a stuff like that:




_

 

For your Laptop, you'll most likely need 1/8" Stereo male to Stereo RCA's.

 For the iPhone, It may depend on the model, but there are Line Out Docs I think for iPhones, I would look that direction, rather than run out the headphone jack.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SillyHoney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 @ Monkey: The Parasound is pretty hard to find.
_

 

No, it really isn't.


----------



## Kabeer

Can someone scan and email me the SR-001Mk2 manual please? I dont have one for mine :/.
 Thanks!


----------



## SillyHoney

I think stax.jp can help 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thank everybody. I'm all set with the new rig: Dell Latitude E6500 - AMB Gamma-2 - Stax SRM-252A - Stax SR-202.

 Head-Fi is the reason I sold my beloved top of the line Alienware. Damn!


----------



## n3rdling

I used to kinda be into nice computers too until I got into headphones. Way better hobby!


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SillyHoney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys! I'm joining Stax team 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can you guys give me some advices on $200-$400 DAC for my Stax SRS-2050A?




_

 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Parasound D/AC 1000 or 1100_

 

x2


----------



## Duckman

I'm near making a decision between purchasing the DNA Sonett for my T1, OR - since things have escalated so much in terms of my spending - selling all for a used O2 system. My one question is: does the O2 (MK1) do rock music well? I've heard people say it is visceral in a way that the Lambda systems aren't. But is this really true? I'm looking for decent, danceable, palpability as well as the exquisite detail they are renowned for.

 Any advice would be great.

 Cheers!

 Dave


----------



## spritzer

A well driven Mk1 leaves any headphone in the dust when it comes to rock music. No other headphone has this level of control but they will reveal any and all recording errors. Unlike the 4070 it isn't all shoved down ones throat...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My one question is: does the O2 (MK1) do rock music well?_

 

In a word, Yes. Get rid of the dynamics; they're for sissies.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm near making a decision between purchasing the DNA Sonett for my T1, OR - since things have escalated so much in terms of my spending - selling all for a used O2 system. My one question is: does the O2 (MK1) do rock music well? I've heard people say it is visceral in a way that the Lambda systems aren't. But is this really true? I'm looking for decent, danceable, palpability as well as the exquisite detail they are renowned for.

 Any advice would be great.

 Cheers!

 Dave_

 

The O2 Mk1s are better with rock than any dynamic headphones I've heard. Beyond that, I think they are just about as good as it gets. The very best IEMs or maybe the R10 may be able to challenge them, but not much else can.


----------



## manaox2

Qualia is the best dynamic headphone I've heard that I think competes with the O2 mk1 for rock.


----------



## dreamwhisper

The YH100's with an OTL tube amp have a more extended and textured bass than the O2's with a 717.
 But in the end it actually comes down a lot to personal taste about bass information... what kind of impact you're looking for - visceral or more holographic) 
 In every other way the O2 walks all over the yh100 as well as most any other dynamic headphone.


----------



## Deadneddz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_selling all for a used O2 system._

 

^This is what you'll want to do IMO. But its all preference. Slightly off topic, but I personally find it fatiguing to listen to phones that have a washed out speaker like presentation, as i'm constantly straining to find where all the sounds are placed. The O2 is the least fatiguing headphone i've ever experienced, as its placement of sounds are so pinpoint, that the imaging is completely effortless. Go for the O2.


----------



## edstrelow

My 02A has been heavily used of late on Wagner's Gotterdamerung (also my Sigma/404 and speaker system.) I am going to the premier of LA's first Gotterdamerung on Sunday. I have been waiting a long time to see this , relying on recordings instead. This will also complete my attendance at the Ring cycle having seen the other 3 operas in previous months.


----------



## Ridleyguy

I am curious to find out how many of the high-end Stax owners went the electrostatic route after going as far as you could go with dynamics, i.e recabling, amplifiers, DACs etc? 

 And a follow-up question, do you have a different opinion of dynamics now with the launch of the HD800s and T1s? I realize that a lot of you have also owned/tried the high-end out of production dynamics, so these may not be your benchmarks for the best dynamics.


----------



## Ridleyguy

double post.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am curious to find out how many of the high-end Stax owners went the electrostatic route after going as far as you could go with dynamics, i.e recabling, amplifiers, DACs etc? 

 And a follow-up question, do you have a different opinion of dynamics now with the launch of the HD800s and T1s? I realize that a lot of you have also owned/tried the high-end out of production dynamics, so these may not be your benchmarks for the best dynamics._

 

Not quite my story but similar. I heard a mind-blowing Amcron hybrid electrostatic speaker system at an audio show, but which was totally out of my budget. I had been moving into hi-fi with various DIY amps and speakers. The local audio dealer ran an ad praising Stax headphones for the cleanness of sound, lack of room problems and the like and I thought i would give it a try. However I ended up getting some Koss stats rather than Stax (I still have 2 Koss Stats BTW). I then went to Stax SRXIII, Jecklin Floats, etc.

 I have heard the H 800's with a number of systems at Canjam. It was not too impressive with conventional amps but with Headroom's BUDA(?) and a Krell transport it was close to the BHSE/007A, though still lacking the ultimate cleanness of the stats. Possibly if I lived with the Headroom set-up fora while, I might grow to like it more.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Thanks for sharing your experiences. I had the SRx-MkIIs for years, and it was unfortunately that bad experience with Stax, that convinced me to try a different route this time. I understand though that the MkIIIs were a big improvement on the MkIIs.

 I am looking at buying the HD800s or equivalent later this year, plus recabling, so I am going to be at about the same cost (including my amp/DAC) as a Stax system - so I hope that it will be at least comparable, but obviously somewhat different. I have also been following the planar developments, i.e HE-5, Audeze (if the new one ever comes out) as I owned Magneplanar 3as for many years, and loved that sound, so that may be a good alternative.


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* 
_I am curious to find out how many of the high-end Stax owners went the electrostatic route after going as far as you could go with dynamics, i.e recabling, amplifiers, DACs etc?_

 

Well I knew something was iffy when I realised that the isodynamic headphones I tried were a better transducer; they provided more musical information than any of the dynamics I had heard before them.
 And I would rate them higher than most dynamics I've heard...
 Then I tried the K340's and further felt that dynamics really weren't presenting the information as cohesively as this new electro/dynamic hybrid...

 And so, the decision to go stat was really already made, and I am not interested in dynamics anymore save if I find myself actually wanting coloration. (like the forward mids of some of the high-end Audio-Technica's)
 Otherwise, for me, simply the way dynamics present information is already colored enough for me to not want to listen to them.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* 
_recabling_

 

A trend I see at head-fi that I don't understand is that people use cables to change the tonal balance of a headphone. 
 This is backwards imo. Better quality cables should be used to allow music to travel through transparently and reject outside interference.
 I've observed first hand that cables can change the tonal balance of a headphone (Zu Mobius HD650's)
 but I don't want to listen to cables.. and let me emphasize that we're talking very subtle changes here... I want to listen to the music traveling thru cables ...
 so I guess my point being if you are really worried about cabling, you need a better transducer (Stax!), and prbly also a better source, amp.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dreamwhisper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I knew something was iffy when I realised that the isodynamic headphones I tried were a better transducer; they provided more musical information than any of the dynamics I had heard before them.
 And I would rate them higher than most dynamics I've heard...
 Then I tried the K340's and further felt that dynamics really weren't presenting the information as cohesively as this new electro/dynamic hybrid...

 And so, the decision to go stat was really already made, and I am not interested in dynamics anymore save if I find myself actually wanting coloration. (like the forward mids of some of the high-end Audio-Technica's)
 Otherwise, for me, simply the way dynamics present information is already colored enough for me to not want to listen to them.



 A trend I see at head-fi that I don't understand is that people use cables to change the tonal balance of a headphone. 
 This is backwards imo. Better quality cables should be used to allow music to travel through transparently and reject outside interference.
 I've observed first hand that cables can change the tonal balance of a headphone (Zu Mobius HD650's)
 but I don't want to listen to cables.. and let me emphasize that we're talking very subtle changes here... I want to listen to the music traveling thru cables ...
 so I guess my point being if you are really worried about cabling, you need a better transducer (Stax!), and prbly also a better source, amp._

 

You make a number of very persuasive points. On cables, I completely agree with your take on what you do and don't want them to do. When I ordered my SAA Equinox, which I probably only have 50 hrs. on, I was relying both on reviews, and the fact that the owner was a former Sennheiser engineer. Plus I wanted to see what impact (if any) recabling had on my 650s first hand. 

 I'm not sure yet if my HD650s even with the Equinox cable will ever be able to compare to the K701s with classical music - and piano in particular. Coloured' as you put it is a good word to describe their sound, but on the other hand, I don't see K701s as being coloured. I know they are not as transparent as even my old MkIIs, but their soundstage and the layering of the orchestra they project...it's addictive, and if the HD800s are even better ...Hmm. Can Stax improve on that?


----------



## spritzer

SAA is just as full of crap as the rest of the cable peddlers. He's charging a boatload for a similar cable (in terms of how the copper is drawn) to what Stax have been using since 1987 on all of their TOTL models. I've been here a long time and seen cable go from being a small scale tweak to a magic bullet that will fix just how horrible any headphone is to begin with. This is all utter hyperbole along with the magical burn-in which will also fix the simple fact that underneath that pretty box (amp, dac etc.) is just badly designed garbage. 

 As for the dynamic competition, the HD800 is a fine headphone but far from the best Senn have ever come up with. Overpriced as is the norm with Sennheiser and simply pales against a well driven HE60. I never cared for the K701 and felt it was a huge step down for AKG compared to such great dynamics as the K501 and K1000. Even a bad version of the Lambda frame puts them to shame and would be cheaper too.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is all utter hyperbole along with the magical burn-in which will also fix the simple fact that underneath that pretty box (amp, dac etc.) is just badly designed garbage. 
 ._

 

If an amplifier uses OIMP V-Caps, are you saying that they do not require significant burn-in?


----------



## spritzer

How would a capacitor benefit from being run in for hours on end being charged countless times? Does its value change any more then can be accounted for by changes due to the increasing temperature inside the amp? The V-caps are no different from all the other film caps (using oil or not) so why would they require so much time to charge up? 

 Warmup is very real and so is that it takes time to get to know any system but some magical changes at 200 hours are just silly. Spend some time building your own gear (and hearing it from the first minute) and you see how much crap all of this really is.


----------



## Ridleyguy

I was only going by tests of various capacitors I have read about, with 400 hrs. of burn-in with AC before testing, but my knowledge of this subject you could put in a thimble and have room to spare, so I'm certainly not disputing what you say, and appreciate your comments.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SAA is just as full of crap as the rest of the cable peddlers. He's charging a boatload for a similar cable (in terms of how the copper is drawn) to what Stax have been using since 1987 on all of their TOTL models. I've been here a long time and seen cable go from being a small scale tweak to a magic bullet that will fix just how horrible any headphone is to begin with. This is all utter hyperbole along with the magical burn-in which will also fix the simple fact that underneath that pretty box (amp, dac etc.) is just badly designed garbage. 

 As for the dynamic competition, the HD800 is a fine headphone but far from the best Senn have ever come up with. Overpriced as is the norm with Sennheiser and simply pales against a well driven HE60. I never cared for the K701 and felt it was a huge step down for AKG compared to such great dynamics as the K501 and K1000. Even a bad version of the Lambda frame puts them to shame and would be cheaper too._

 

Just curious, what have you heard the HD800 driven from, and was the cable stock? I find the HD800 on an Eddie Current ZDT with Warren Audio cable comes very close to the HE60 driven by the Woo WES. I really need to sit down sometime and do a really thorough comparison, but I do tend to lean toward the HE60/WES more.


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure yet if my HD650s even with the Equinox cable will ever be able to compare to the K701s with classical music - and piano in particular. Coloured' as you put it is a good word to describe their sound, but on the other hand, I don't see K701s as being coloured. I know they are not as transparent as even my old MkIIs, but their soundstage and the layering of the orchestra they project...it's addictive, and if the HD800s are even better ...Hmm. Can Stax improve on that?_

 

Yeah the Equinox is an all-copper cable and I think that it would be an improvement from the stock cable in terms of purity of metal and the conductivity that goes along with that.
 Of course I'm not an expert but I personally wouldn't pay such a premium for these aftermarket cables when all they are is better quality wires.
 I would however buy the headphone cables used, but only because the quality wire that is used in them isn't as readily available, like with Blue Jeans cable, unless you're into DIY.
 For any other sort of digital or analog cable I am a big fan of blue jeans cable because it has better spec's than the industry standard Starquad cable that is used by recording engineers.

 I've heard the AKG K340 and K501... If the K501 is anything like the K701, then yes, the O2/717 is superior to them. (and the 717 is the budget amp) The K501's are like listening to loudspeakers a football field away. And the only way I've heard an AKG headphone that could improve on that principal, the K340, was because of the electrostatic technology used. (can't comment on the K1000)
 I have a lot of respect for AKG because they made the K340, as well as the K240, a great 'lively sounding' budget studio monitor headphone.

 Considering the AKG phone's I've heard, I feel comfortable speculating that no matter how intimate-sounding we think the K501/K701 are, the O2's are MOAR intimate, not to mention technically superior in every way.

 I haven't heard the K1000, so I can only speculate.
 The only way in my mind the K1000's would be able to compete with the O2's is because they both share the principal of being 'earspeakers' in that a single K1000 speaker side can be heard by both ears, allowing for a greater sense of air.
 The R10 also have 'ports' which allow for air flow. No idea if this is a pattern and a commonly celebrated feature.
 To me, dynamic drivers just aren't as technologically advanced, (to my ears anyway)
 and even more important to me is just how non-fatiguing stats are to listen to.

 ...I would be curious to see if a Qualia could redeem dynamic headphones for me with rock music as Deadneddz suggests....although, I don't see a dynamic headphone ever again being my main phone because electrostatic phones are so non-fatiguing.


----------



## Ridleyguy

I noticed that Skylab has just unboxed some 30 year old "new" AKG340s in another new thread today (Full-Size headphones) and his comments very much support what you are saying about AKG products, quite coincidentally.


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed that Skylab has just unboxed some 30 year old "new" AKG340s in another new thread today (Full-Size headphones) and his comments very much support what you are saying about AKG products, quite coincidentally._

 

Interesting. Skylab has bought and sold the K340's a few times. In fact, I bought my pair from him.
 I'm pretty curious to see what he has to say.

 EDIT: bah, he didn't even get them modded, did he? 
 C'mon that's the one thing a 30 year old headphone is going to need most. 
 Have you seen the stock plastic mesh screen on those headphones? Gross...

 The one problem I had with the K340 is that to hear the same level of detail I hear with an O2 at a sane volume I have to turn the K340 waaay up.
 I didn't understand why the K340's were so fatiguing for me until I realised just how loud I was listening to them.
 Maybe they just need moar power, like from speaker taps as opposed to an OTL tube amp.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Good comments - either way!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dreamwhisper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't heard the K1000, so I can only speculate.
 The only way in my mind the K1000's would be able to compete with the O2's is because they both share the principal of being 'earspeakers' in that a single K1000 speaker side can be heard by both ears, allowing for a greater sense of air.
 The R10 also have 'ports' which allow for air flow. No idea if this is a pattern and a commonly celebrated feature.
 To me, dynamic drivers just aren't as technologically advanced, (to my ears anyway)
 and even more important to me is just how non-fatiguing stats are to listen to.

 ._

 

I had a good chance to listen to several AKG K1000 set-ups at the last Canjam. To my mind their best feature is the out-of-the head characteristic you get when the drivers are angled at about 90 degrees to the head. In that respect they are like the Stax Sigma. However the K1000 lacks the electrostatic clarity and has a good deal less bass than the Sigmas, especially when the drivers are angled out. 

 However I did like playing with the drivers trying different positions.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was only going by tests of various capacitors I have read about, with 400 hrs. of burn-in with AC before testing, but my knowledge of this subject you could put in a thimble and have room to spare, so I'm certainly not disputing what you say, and appreciate your comments._

 

All capacitors have a sound since they are in effect coloring the signal that goes through them. 100% linear they are not but saying they need to be run in for hundreds of hours makes no sense to me. I used to believe this but that was before I gained experience working with caps and hearing how they work and alter the sound. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious, what have you heard the HD800 driven from, and was the cable stock? I find the HD800 on an Eddie Current ZDT with Warren Audio cable comes very close to the HE60 driven by the Woo WES. I really need to sit down sometime and do a really thorough comparison, but I do tend to lean toward the HE60/WES more._

 

Custom Dynalo, B22, Dynahi, Auditor and a monster DHT amp with custom transformers. Headphones were fully stock with a multitude of sources, my APL, ML 30/31 stack, my AZ DAC1 plus some EMM labs gear. 

 As for Warren Audio, you are aware that it is just cheap magnet wire in those cables right? That is the cheapest wire you can find at any electronics store to wind your own transformers, coils etc. Couple that with the fact that the idiot can't even solder and you've certainly got the combination of a true winner...


----------



## krmathis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am curious to find out how many of the high-end Stax owners went the electrostatic route after going as far as you could go with dynamics, i.e recabling, amplifiers, DACs etc?_

 

To me the route have sort of gone the other way.
 My first "real" headphone was the Stax SR-007BL back in 2006, following a Grado SR80. I then went through some 10 other Stax 'phones (4070, SR-404, SR-X/MK3 (Pro), SR-Lambda Pro, ..) before turning towards moving coil. The AKG K1000 that is.
 4 years later I still have the SR-007BL, but spend most of my time listening to a K1000.

 I do really love electrostatics, but their high demand for amplification lead me to look elsewhere.
 No HeadAmp KGBH SE, Woo WES or RSA A10 back then (mid-2008), so the choices were somewhat limited.

 One never know what the future will bring.


----------



## Currawong

I have to say the stock HD-800 cable is crap. Putting an APS cable on mine has brought them closer to what I appreciate in Lambdas in the treble, whilst retaining the punch of dynamic headphones in the bass. That being said, the best Stax amp I've had the chance to use Lambdas with is the 717, so I understand that until I finish building my eXStatA, I likely wont realise their full potential. I look forward to the eXStatA + O2 bettering my current rig (and dread it for the cost of the O2s that I'll have to pay).


----------



## The Monkey

The HD 800 is a technically superb headphone. It is proficient. And compared to the O2, it has no soul. That is all.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Having "soul" is a subjective criteria that probably means different things to different people, so it's difficult to compare in terms of headphones, but I think I know what you are saying. 

 If we set up a grid, it seems to me on Head-Fi that we have the extremes - the sound engineer types who want to hear the fly in the recording studio, and the bassheads, who want to feel the base and don't maybe care as much about transparency and detail, and everyone else somewhere in between. If that truly is the case, then it is understandable that there are then going to be significant differences in headphones preferences. The point I believe you are making though, is that the O2s do it all (I'm assuming transparency and detail are a given with Stax products), and that the HD800s are missing something - indefinable?.


----------



## Ridleyguy

I have an additional question, thinking about comments on the O2s, etc. 

 If Stax/electrostatic technology is superior to dynamics, why has this technology not scaled and replicated its success with floor-standing speakers? Yes, I have heard Quads (not SoundLabs though), but I don't believe, (correct me if I'm wrong), if any electrostatics are rated in the top 20 or even 50 (?) speakers in that category.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All capacitors have a sound since they are in effect coloring the signal that goes through them. 100% linear they are not but saying they need to be run in for hundreds of hours makes no sense to me. I used to believe this but that was before I gained experience working with caps and hearing how they work and alter the sound. 

 ---

 Custom Dynalo, B22, Dynahi, Auditor and a monster DHT amp with custom transformers. Headphones were fully stock with a multitude of sources, my APL, ML 30/31 stack, my AZ DAC1 plus some EMM labs gear. 

 ---

 As for Warren Audio, you are aware that it is just cheap magnet wire in those cables right? That is the cheapest wire you can find at any electronics store to wind your own transformers, coils etc. Couple that with the fact that the idiot can't even solder and you've certainly got the combination of a true winner... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

As for the WA cable - all I know is that it improves the resistance to sibilant recordings and warms up the bass a little, and it sounds a little better overall (to the degree that a cable can make a difference). I'm not done in my journey for an HD800 cable, but this is a good place to rest. I'm thinking about a Double Helix (brand), Blue Dragon, APS V3 or Jenna Labs cable, or maybe one of those Hyperion cables from Lee.

 As for the Stax, I'm thinking about rolling tubes on the WES now. Has anyone here heard the WES with the Sophia 6SL7 matched quad from Woo? I think I'll leave the Shugang 50-Years Treasure 6CA7 tubes alone for now, but I think my 6SL7 are NOS RCA.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have an additional question, thinking about comments on the O2s, etc. 

 If Stax/electrostatic technology is superior to dynamics, why has this technology not scaled and replicated its success with floor-standing speakers? Yes, I have heard Quads (not SoundLabs though), but I don't believe, (correct me if I'm wrong), if any electrostatics are rated in the top 20 or even 50 (?) speakers in that category._

 

Even large stat speakers have had the reputation of weakness in the areas of dynamics and bass. I do not know if the dynamics rap is still deserved, but bass will be a problem, probably because of very low xmax - diaphragm travel. Martin Logan uses a separate dynamic woofer.

 Neither of these issues exist with well designed stat headphones. By the way, the Quads are legendary for their midrange being untouchable by dynamic speaker designs, just like Stax re: dynamic headphones.

 Another issue with stat speakers might be (I don't know; I have not heard any recent models) diffuse imaging due to their generally huge transducer surface, as far from a point source as you can get. Again, not an issue with headphones. My personal opinion, based on a fifty plus year listening history, is that soundstage is very important to listeners right now but the extreme emphasis being place on it will be a passing fancy in the long run. The entire stereo imaging implementation is a clever trick to generate quasi realistic sound fields. It is not anything like the reality of live listening, but it fools our brains very well and works just fine. Exact replication of the natural sound field was never the goal and obsessing over perfecting it is an odd yet wrong headed quest. I don't think 5.1/7.1/whatever does a much better job. Still a simulation of reality, not reality itself.

 If you have ever heard a really good vintage mono rig, you will notice that when you get close (at a particular distance) to the speaker, the spatial information appears. It is the brain filling in the necessary information, and that is what makes it work in stereo as well to an extent. If you are looking for errors in the soundstage, you will hear them because your brain will stop fooling you. It is like when the willing suspension of disbelief while watching a movie vanishes from the presence of some distraction. You are suddenly back to watching a screen instead of being immersed in the space that was in front of the camera.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

The Quad ESL57 is still one of the best speakers ever made, 55 years after it debuted. The Sound Lab models are clearly some of the best speakers you can get at any price but they require dedication since they are massive beasts which require a lot of clean power. The current Quads are also highly regarded and some studios even use them as recording monitors. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the Stax, I'm thinking about rolling tubes on the WES now. Has anyone here heard the WES with the Sophia 6SL7 matched quad from Woo? I think I'll leave the Shugang 50-Years Treasure 6CA7 tubes alone for now, but I think my 6SL7 are NOS RCA._

 

Have you tried loctal adapters yet? The 7f7 is the same tube and they are dirt cheap. I'm using some beautiful Philco (probably made by Sylvania) tubes in my ESX and I quite like them in this circuit.


----------



## n3rdling

In January 2000, the Quad ESL 57 was named the "Greatest HiFi Product of All Time" by HiFi News. Not bad.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Hmm ...only 10 years ago ...not bad!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Quad ESL57 is still one of the best speakers ever made, 55 years after it debuted. The Sound Lab models are clearly some of the best speakers you can get at any price but they require dedication since they are massive beasts which require a lot of clean power. The current Quads are also highly regarded and some studios even use them as recording monitors. 



 Have you tried loctal adapters yet? The 7f7 is the same tube and they are dirt cheap. I'm using some beautiful Philco (probably made by Sylvania) tubes in my ESX and I quite like them in this circuit._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In January 2000, the Quad ESL 57 was named the "Greatest HiFi Product of All Time" by HiFi News. Not bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have not tried anything else yet, including loctal adapters. Is there a particular 7f7 that you'd reccommend? 

 And stop making me miss my Quads.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... The point I believe you are making though, is that the O2s do it all (I'm assuming transparency and detail are a given with Stax products), and that the HD800s are missing something - indefinable?._

 

Not indefinable. There's a gritty sound to even the best dynamics, and the HD800 is the best dynamic I have heard. As I indicated earlier, I might find some features of the HD800 which were better than the 007 BHSE if I spent more time with them. Short of living with a set-up you can't be really sure about these things. However physicss tells me that electrostatic diaphragms must have an advantage in reproducing sound over a cone with a magnet attached.


----------



## les_garten

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm ...only 10 years ago ...not bad!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Have your ears "evolved" a lot in the last 10 years? Or the last 2000 for that matter...

 Killer gear 10 years ago is still killer gear.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm ...only 10 years ago ...not bad!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

'stat speakers are pretty regularly raved about in the various audiophile rags I read (the same as everyone else reads).


----------



## Ridleyguy

I am having a little fun here too, so please don't take that 10 year comment too seriously, although I know this is a Stax thread, ...but that still doesn't answer my question...are they even in the top 20? i.e compared to Wilson Audio, Dynaudio, NTT Audiolab, Acapella, Moon Audio - to name a few. These speakers are in $1 million plus systems.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not tried anything else yet, including loctal adapters. Is there a particular 7f7 that you'd reccommend? 

 And stop making me miss my Quads. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't think there were many versions of the 7f7 as it was never a popular tube. All were probably made by Sylvania.


----------



## morphon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having a little fun here too, so please don't take that 10 year comment too seriously, although I know this is a Stax thread, ...but that still doesn't answer my question...are they even in the top 20? i.e compared to Wilson Audio, Dynaudio, NTT Audiolab, Acapella, Moon Audio - to name a few. These speakers are in $1 million plus systems._

 

I'm not sure this is a fair question. Any given transducer technology is not necessarily useful in all applications. Here's an example with which we can probably all agree:

 Balanced Armature Transducers: They can do some amazing things because they have such miniscule moving mass. Good ones can, for example, reproduce square waves at 500hz. Since they are basically tiny boxes with a sound nozzle, they can be stacked up inside arbitrarily sized enclosures (i.e. custom IEM housings). They have their own sound chambers, so you can put several of them into a single housing without them stepping on each others' toes. Because you don't have a big radial transducer trying to do everything, the high end can be nearly free of any doppler effects - pure, smooth high frequencies. Yadda yadda.

 And - they are totally useless for anything that isn't inside the ear canal AND has a nearly airtight seal. No earbuds, circumaurals, and forget about speakers ten feet away.

 How about a reverse example - anyone had success making horn-loaded headphones? Take a look at the Triolon speakers - expensive, and well regarded.

 In short, the availability or quality of a particular transducer technology for one application is not generalizable to other applications. The only one that has had success (though not always the best choice) in all applications is cone dynamics.


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having a little fun here too, so please don't take that 10 year comment too seriously, although I know this is a Stax thread, ...but that still doesn't answer my question...are they even in the top 20? i.e compared to Wilson Audio, Dynaudio, NTT Audiolab, Acapella, Moon Audio - to name a few. These speakers are in $1 million plus systems._

 

Well, considering that the O2's make a seal with your head, perhaps the 'dynamics' involved lol are different.
 And by that I mean, with speakers a dynamic application in a treated room is maybe more suited to providing bass than a stat that isn't sealed directly to your head.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_O2s do it all (I'm assuming transparency and detail are a given with Stax products), and that the HD800s are missing something - indefinable?._

 

I always hear some sort of congestion with dynamics, as if different sounds in the mix struggle with eachother to be gain control of the dynamic driver(s).
 The O2 just breathes music. It's hard not to call that sense of effortlessness soul.


----------



## Ridleyguy

Don't worry guys ... i am close to surrendering now, and soon will slink back to my Dynamic threads.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ridleyguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't worry guys ... i am close to surrendering now, and soon will slink back to my Dynamic threads._

 

Head-Fi is more than an internet site. It also hosts major, and lesser, meetings at which members set up most of the headphone equipment in contention. I don't think you will ever hear such a collection of first rate equipment. At the last LA Canjam I swear there were systems $25 K and up. It is well worth your while to go to one of these to hear things for yourself rather than debating on abstract principles.


----------



## Duckman

Thanks for answers re O2 and rock music. Lo and behold, this thread has turned up an opportunity for me to sample and possibly purchase the O2 Mk1 in the near future, which I'm quite excited about. 

 I have another question though, which I'm sure has been answered several times in this mammoth thread, however... it's a long thread: I have a tiny desk in my room and am seeking suggestions for a small-form-factor speaker amp to power the O2 via an SRD7Pro. Looking for excellent bang-for-buck options and smallness. Not a lot of desk space for it.

 Cheers,

 Dave


----------



## Elephas

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duckman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_a small-form-factor speaker amp to power the O2 via an SRD7Pro_

 

This is just me, but I wouldn't do this.

 I realize there are a lot of speaker amps out there and no one could possibly try them all. But in general, based on my admittedly limited experience, I don't think the O2 sounds very good with the transformers (in my case SRD7 Mk2 and Illusion ESC-1001).

 I think a used 717 or maybe a 007t would be a better choice.

 You might even get better results using the SRD7Pro with another headphone, maybe one of the Lambdas.

 The O2, both mk1 and mk2, are very good headphones. But if I didn't have good amplification for them, I would probably choose another headphone.


----------



## ktm

I went looking for the real leather replacement pads on ebay . 
 I see joynetcafe has the sr-404le and regular series pads,
 but describe both as being hand made leather?
 I assume they mis-translated? The 404le would be leather,
 and the others the fake stuff?


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went looking for the real leather replacement pads on ebay . 
 I see joynetcafe has the sr-404le and regular series pads,
 but describe both as being hand made leather?
 I assume they mis-translated? The 404le would be leather,
 and the others the fake stuff?_

 

correct, only the LE are leather


----------



## edstrelow

My head is full of Wagner after spending 5 1/2 hours at the premier of Gotterdamerung in Los Angeles yesterday. 

 That long a performance seems to really set the Opera hall sound in my head and I was somewhat bothered by the treble harshness I was hearing when I listened to my Gotterdamerung recording on the 717/007A. Some of this could be the recording itself, an A/D transcription of the old Decca/London Solti Gotterdamerung. Even my old lp vesion struck me as somewhat bright. While the Sigma/404 does not have the same level of detail and precise imaging, it has, as I have said several times, a better soundstage for opera and now realized, the right amount of treble to make this recording sound like the opera hall. The 007A has a somewhat peaky treble. However,I did notice that the treble for the 007A was better after a very long amplifier warm-up.

 As regards the performance, I was very impressed. Musically it was about as good as you are going to get anywhere. During the applause at the end, by the time the conductor took the stage the whole house stood to give a standing ovation. ,

 But then, the director, Achim Freyer, took the stage and was vigorously booed. I was taken aback by this, I wasn't thrilled by his odd-ball avant-garde reworking of this and the other Ring operas which I had seen in the prior months. Still I thought he had some very good ideas for stage business even though he often took considerable liberties with what Wagner wrote. I also felt that Freyer's Gotterdamerung had a good balance between avant garde and traditional and was quite impressive. I though it was quite an achievement to keep a 5 1/2 hour performance from getting dull. At any rate 
 I thought it was healthy for the opera company that the fans cared enough to state their objections.


----------



## gilency

Ed: I appreciate your comments,since I also live in SoCal and like to enjoy concerts around here. Have you had time to compare your 007A with an Mk1?
 As far as the Sigma goes, I actually really like my Pro's driven by an eXStata. I am not shy about using a parametric equalizer and I can listen for hours without fatigue. 
 Recently purchased some of Vivaldi's concerts, never previously released and the soundstage is just magnificent, and the music coming out of my Sigma Pro is very, very enjoyable.


----------



## n3rdling

The mk2 must sound _drastically_ different from the mk1 as a "peaked treble" is just about the opposite of what the O2 mk1 has (at least out of amps that aren't the BHSE, etc). It's interesting, as this is the first time I've ever heard somebody describe the mk2 as having a peaked treble (I've heard all about the midbass bump and upper mids honk).


----------



## dreamwhisper

nice, just changed/corrected my pad placement on the 007... makes a big difference
 I hope where the spring strut is doesn't effect sound too much, cuz mine are in different places on each side...

 EDIT: it took me 10 minutes to take off the pad and put it back on the second time to fix the spring strut issue, it makes a big difference too,
 lol it took me 20 frantic minutes to take off the pads the first time and to understand the mechanism, when to rotate the pads-you don't even need to take them off the phone!! lulzzz
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 wow, now that I've got the ergonomics right, 007 is straight back to blowing my f'in mind again


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ed: I appreciate your comments,since I also live in SoCal and like to enjoy concerts around here. Have you had time to compare your 007A with an Mk1?
 As far as the Sigma goes, I actually really like my Pro's driven by an eXStata. I am not shy about using a parametric equalizer and I can listen for hours without fatigue. 
 Recently purchased some of Vivaldi's concerts, never previously released and the soundstage is just magnificent, and the music coming out of my Sigma Pro is very, very enjoyable._

 

The Sigma Pro is obviously close in sound to the Sigma/404. There is a bit more at the top and bottom of the Sigma/404, more middle in the Sigma pro. I had both running together at Canjam and I recall one listener commenting on a degree of refinement with the Sigma/404.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mk2 must sound drastically different from the mk1 as a "peaked treble" is just about the opposite of what the O2 mk1 has (at least out of amps that aren't the BHSE, etc). It's interesting, as this is the first time I've ever heard somebody describe the mk2 as having a peaked treble (I've heard all about the midbass bump and upper mids honk)._

 

I and others have commented on this mid-treble peak before.http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/t...estion-381975/

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dreamwhisper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_nice, just changed/corrected my pad placement on the 007... makes a big difference
 I hope where the spring strut is doesn't effect sound too much, cuz mine are in different places on each side...

 EDIT: it took me 10 minutes to take off the pad and put it back on the second time to fix the spring strut issue, it makes a big difference too,
 lol it took me 20 frantic minutes to take off the pads the first time and to understand the mechanism, when to rotate the pads-you don't even need to take them off the phone!! lulzzz
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 wow, now that I've got the ergonomics right, 007 is straight back to blowing my f'in mind again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What exactly did you do to fix the spring?

 I had a good chance to compare the Mk1 and the A 007's at Canjam LA. The sound is different, although I wouldn't say drastically so. These phones have a lot more in common than difference. The Mk1 was somewhat darker sounding as I recall. I have seen a frequency response graph of either the original Omega or the 007A which showed a steady roll-off of treble but a smallish peak at the top.

 My point about the sound of the 007A is that one's sense of audio rightness and tonal balance changes after a long concert/opera hall experience. I am not saying the 007A would sound as bright with all material or equipment. The recording itself was fairly bright. However, the Sigma/404 is more forgiving of treble issues. I don't know what I would think about the Mk1 under these circumstances.


----------



## Duckman

What's the current availability of the Exstata components? Are there any builders out there willing to do the job for non-DIY no-hopers like myself?


----------



## dreamwhisper

I didn't do anything to fix the spring, just adjust the D-shape in relation to the spring

 Other than rotating the pad...
 The spring on one side is a little looser than the other, and I think it was like this when I bought it.. when the phones squish the pads against my head there is no problem though, no noticable effect.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

hi gang!

 i'm seeking advice on an amp. i run now srm-T1 with lambda signature and sigma normal.
 what would be the next step? i plan on experimenting more with sigmas (trying pro and sigma/404)
 as well as hunting some omegas. neutrality, albeit on a vivid side, is what i need.
 is srm-oo7t worth the money? srm-600? stay with T1?

 thanks & apologies if the topic is repeated!


----------



## Elephas

You might try a pair of 6SN7GTB in your T1 using adapters (I have a T1W).

 I think the SR-Omega sounds quite good driven by the T1W, as well as the Airbow SR-SC1 (basically a SR-404). 

 The O2 on the other hand, not so good.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Elephas, I have a normal T1 (not S, not W).
 In what aspect is W-version different?
 What is then a good match for O2? 007A? SRM600?

 Thanks!


----------



## paaj

the T1S and T1W offer balanced inputs, the T1W is also usable as a pre-amp. 
 basic amp is the same, still waiting for the balanced cabled (3 months or so now) to see if that improves things but in normal RCA mode they sound the same.

 FWIR the SRM-717 is well regarded paired with the O2


----------



## 98664c3yijh

double post, sorry


----------



## padam

It depends more on the cable itself as running it from XLR basically enables higher gain but not much else as the amp is balanced anyway. 

 But the differences between cables themselves are quite noticeable.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It depends more on the cable itself as running it from XLR basically enables higher gain but not much else as the amp is balanced anyway._

 

I would argue that any differences between XLR v RCA are not primarily in the cable, but how the source generates the balanced versus unbalanced signal.

 Many balanced sources generate the unbalanced signal by running it through a cheap OPAMP.


----------



## padam

I see, I meant that using a source that gives a 'proper' balanced/unbalanced output.


----------



## Beefy

As opposed to 'proper' cables?


----------



## 98664c3yijh

guys,

 i think cabels are of a bit secondary point,
 clean power seems more important, or?

 and has anyone tried SRM-600 with either sigma's or O2's ?


----------



## KrypticMind

Okay guys... Looks like I'm getting some channel imbalance again, but this time, it's only on my Lambda Pros. I listened to my other Stax 'phones, and they're fine. Anything I can do to fix this?


----------



## dreamwhisper

holy, the omega2's are revealing,,, O2's are punks... they're hating on my Digidesign 003 (AD-DA/pre-preamp):http://beatlabusa.com/images/003.jpg
 although it could also be because the signal is being routed through Personus Central Station first.
 still ...picky headphones


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *98664c3yijh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys,

 i think cabels are of a bit secondary point,
 clean power seems more important, or?

 and has anyone tried SRM-600 with either sigma's or O2's ?_

 


 It has the same amount of power (340V RMS) as the SRM-007t so it is unlikely to drive a Sigma or an O2 properly. The O2 would probably work better than the Sigma which would probably sound muddy with this amp, Sigmas work quite well with a SRD-7 + speaker amp combination.

 The SRM-717 is the second best Stax amp and it has a good amount of power (450V RMS). The current SRM-727II/SRM-727A has the same but it is not linear sound-wise.

 However, there are aftermarket amps such as the KGSS and they have even more power than these Stax amps so they should be even better.


 What I meant about cables is that one could ruin the performance of the whole system by using a cable that does not match the other components.


----------



## Cya|\|

I have a high end speaker system. Actually, the amp is not high end, but the speakers are. The speakers are custom made, with magnesium woofer and ribbon tweeter. Ribbon tweeters are very similiar sounding to electrostatic/planar technology.
 I was thinking about buying the akg k701 and the zero dac in october, as i'm gonna transfer to a student dorm.
 Since i may miss my speakers with ribbon tweeter, i was wondering if i could somehow afford some headphones amp.
 So i wanted to ask: are the stax sr-303 different from the sr-404, or do they sound identically? 6moons says they are identical, but i'd like to ask for your opinion too.
 Also, is it possible to drive them with a cheap class d amp, so i may buy a better amp in a later moment?


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It has the same amount of power (340V RMS) as the SRM-007t so it is unlikely to drive a Sigma or an O2 properly. The O2 would probably work better than the Sigma which would probably sound muddy with this amp, Sigmas work quite well with a SRD-7 + speaker amp combination.

 The SRM-717 is the second best Stax amp and it has a good amount of power (450V RMS). The current SRM-727II/SRM-727A has the same but it is not linear sound-wise.

 However, there are aftermarket amps such as the KGSS and they have even more power than these Stax amps so they should be even better.


 What I meant about cables is that one could ruin the performance of the whole system by using a cable that does not match the other components._

 

thanks padam!! will try to find 717...anyone selling one :staxsmiley: ??


----------



## Akabeth

I have a question...
 There's been three instances back in the winter season when I've had my SRM-717 cut off sound while listening. It makes this small 'click' noise when it happens--the same one that occurs right after you turn on or turn off the power switch. Each time it happened I simply turn the amp off and switch it back on in ~5 minutes or so and resume listening. 

 Is this some sort safety measure against of overheating or anything of that sort? Just curious, thanks.


----------



## spritzer

There is a protection servo in the amp that shuts off the output if there are any issues with the ground. I had this happen when the umbilical in my old G-lite was failing as it was on the loop out. Check if there are any intermittent connections in any cables etc. It's also a good idea to clean the dust out of the amp with some compressed air.


----------



## Akabeth

^Cool thanks spritzer.


----------



## LingLing1337

Any SR-5 owners out there want to check in?


----------



## 98664c3yijh

gang,

 is there a circuit diagram for SRM-T1 somewhere around?
 i wanted to make additional balanced input on my non-S version

 thanks!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It has the same amount of power (340V RMS) as the SRM-007t so it is unlikely to drive a Sigma or an O2 properly. The O2 would probably work better than the Sigma which would probably sound muddy with this amp, Sigmas work quite well with a SRD-7 + speaker amp combination.

 The SRM-717 is the second best Stax amp and it has a good amount of power (450V RMS). The current SRM-727II/SRM-727A has the same but it is not linear sound-wise.

 However, there are aftermarket amps such as the KGSS and they have even more power than these Stax amps so they should be even better.


 What I meant about cables is that one could ruin the performance of the whole system by using a cable that does not match the other components._

 

I run both my low bias Sigma and Sigma/404 from an SRM1Mk2 which has the 340 volt operation and it is pretty decent with these phones. The 717 is better and I wouldn't recommend 340 volts with the 007A even though it is more efficient than the Sigma/404.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *98664c3yijh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks padam!! will try to find 717...anyone selling one :staxsmiley: ??_

 

Getting one from Japan using a deputy service like KuboTEN is your best bet. Last time Craig had a 717 for sale, I don't think it is still available but you might give it a try and ask him. Re-setting the voltage is fairly easy.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Re-setting the voltage is fairly easy._

 

If the transformer windings are intact then that is the case but if they are cut (many units are like that) then it is an epic pain to wire it for anything but 100V.


----------



## padam

I thought that only the newest amps are like that, my bad.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the transformer windings are intact then that is the case but if they are cut (many units are like that) then it is an epic pain to wire it for anything but 100V._

 

additional stepdown tranny? isolating one, built to medical specs ?
 then army of filters...the amp wouldn't complain 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 maestro, would you point me to a SRM-T1S 
 schematics if not a problem ? Þakka þér fyrir.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Thanks padam & edstrelow!!
 One more auction site? Too much for my nerves
 after Epay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Will try to fish one without bidding though..no hurry


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *98664c3yijh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_additional stepdown tranny? isolating one, built to medical specs ?
 then army of filters...the amp wouldn't complain 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 maestro, would you point me to a SRM-T1S 
 schematics if not a problem ? Þakka þér fyrir._

 

Any oversized transformer would work, a medical unit would be ideal since they are built to a much higher standard then the normal commercial stuff. It's better to just ask the seller of the amp to remove the decorative PCB on top of the transformer and take a picture of the primaries as they enter the transformer. You can easily spot if they are cut. 

 The T1 schematic was floating around here somewhere but I can't remeber where. It is full of flaws like all the Stax designs so it wouldn't be wise to follow it blindly. 

 Verði þér að góðu.


----------



## nsx_23

I'm curious as to what modifications I can do to my SRM1 to make it sound better. Audiocats suggested some boutique caps.


----------



## alcyst

This may have been suggested before, we probably need a "Stax ear pads" thread


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious as to what modifications I can do to my SRM1 to make it sound better. Audiocats suggested some boutique caps._

 

A Mk1 is AC coupled so better caps would help but any Stax amp would really benefit from a new PSU over all. They are just simple smoothing caps and a real regulated unit would really help. It would never fit in the existing chassis though...


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My head is full of Wagner after spending 5 1/2 hours at the premier of Gotterdamerung in Los Angeles yesterday. 

 That long a performance seems to really set the Opera hall sound in my head and I was somewhat bothered by the treble harshness I was hearing when I listened to my Gotterdamerung recording on the 717/007A. Some of this could be the recording itself, an A/D transcription of the old Decca/London Solti Gotterdamerung. Even my old lp vesion struck me as somewhat bright. While the Sigma/404 does not have the same level of detail and precise imaging, it has, as I have said several times, a better soundstage for opera and now realized, the right amount of treble to make this recording sound like the opera hall. The 007A has a somewhat peaky treble. However,I did notice that the treble for the 007A was better after a very long amplifier warm-up._

 

Sitting in an opera hall means hearing a large part of indirect sound waves reflected by the ceiling and the walls while the auditors' bodies have a strong absorbing and damping effect. High frequencies are reflected to a lesser degree than other frequency ranges which leads to a distinct tilt of the frequency reproduction. Depending on the sonic qualities of the building it does substantially matter, too, where you are sitting. 

 While this is just the way it is in concert and opera halls, I don't really like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I prefer a fresher more involving representation like the one to be found on most recordings where you have a mix of more distantly placed microphones catching more of the indirect sound and of closer placed instrument or instrument group specific microphones recording a higher degree of direct sound. This, however, is more like sitting quite close to the orchestra or just at the rim of the orchestra pit (and I love it).

 While the 007A/II is markedly brighter than the 007 I wouldn't call it bright or treble peaked. It certainly is less so than any pro bias Lambda with the exemption of the LNS (and maybe the 404LE which I don't own and haven't heard yet). The Sigmas provide a more concert or opera hall like presentation but with them I just miss some of the sonic experiences that make listening to music involving. My Sigmas with Lambda 202 drivers preserve more of the sonic information at both ends of the spectrum but I still prefer both O2s and the 4070 even for large orchestral works and operas.


----------



## edstrelow

QUOTE=chi2;6539242]Sitting in an opera hall means hearing a large part of indirect sound waves reflected by the ceiling and the walls while the auditors' bodies have a strong absorbing and damping effect. High frequencies are reflected to a lesser degree than other frequency ranges which leads to a distinct tilt of the frequency reproduction. Depending on the sonic qualities of the building it does substantially matter, too, where you are sitting. 

 While this is just the way it is in concert and opera halls, I don't really like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. I prefer a fresher more involving representation like the one to be found on most recordings where you have a mix of more distantly placed microphones catching more of the indirect sound and of closer placed instrument or instrument group specific microphones recording a higher degree of direct sound. This, however, is more like sitting quite close to the orchestra or just at the rim of the orchestra pit (and I love it).

 While the 007A/II is markedly brighter than the 007 I wouldn't call it bright or treble peaked. It certainly is less so than any pro bias Lambda with the exemption of the LNS (and maybe the 404LE which I don't own and haven't heard yet). The Sigmas provide a more concert or opera hall like presentation but with them I just miss some of the sonic experiences that make listening to music involving. My Sigmas with Lambda 202 drivers preserve more of the sonic information at both ends of the spectrum but I still prefer both O2s and the 4070 even for large orchestral works and operas.[/QUOTE]


 Higher frequencies of sound suffer greater losses of amplitude in general, not just because of reflection effects. The physics seems fairly complicated even moisture in the air contributes to the attenuation of soundwaves. This source has a reasonable discussion on that subject.

The speed and attenuation of sound 2.4.1

 The point being that in any real life listening situation you are probably going to hear less high frequencys than what will be recorded by a mic because this is generally set close in to the performers. So unless equalization is employed, recorded sound will be somewhat "hot." Headphones or speakers that give a flat response may end up sounding harsh or edgy as a result.

 There is no single "concert hall sound" for even a single hall. The frequency response and the ratio of direct to indirect sound can vary a lot for different seating locations as well as the position of the performers. 

 At the Gotterdamerung performance I recently attended I sat in 2 different setas in different parts of the hall, because I misread my ticket and there was no usher when I first arrived. Both seats were pretty good, close to the front of their respective balconies but the lower "loge" seat gave a much stronger sound from the vocalists than did the sme seat number on the next higher balcony. This was probably due to the fact that I was sitting closer to their actual level on stage so they were more or less signing straight at me. However on that same loge balcony when I have sat further back, the sound is less clear.

 However, I have been generally unhappy with the ground floor "orchestra" seats for opera in most halls because the orchestra sound is muted. This seeming paradox comes as a result of the fact that an opera orchestra generally sits in a pit so the orchestra seats get almost no direct sound of from the orchestra. Also if you sit under a balcony, you lose a lot of the indirect sound and I don't like these locations at all. 

 You will generally get both more direct orchestral sound in the balcony as well as a powerfull reflection from the ceiling so the balcony may be the best place to hear an opera orchestra if not the singers.

 I listen to a lot more music on phones than in concert halls, for cost and practical reasons, and high frequency preformance has been a continuing source of annoyance to me over the years, especially with headphones. 

 I wouldn't say the 007A is bad in that regard. However the various Sigmas give both a more concert-hall treble roll-off in addition to their more natural perspective. That roll-off also acts as a filter to some of the nasties of recordings of high frequencies.

 However, what I think I was hearing was more in the way of dissatisfaction with the treble artifacts in recorded sound. If you spend all your time listening to recorded music you build up a tolerance but after 5 1/2 hour live performance you develope more or an auditory memory of live sound.
 That remains the basic test of recorded sound, does it sound like the real thing? I see very few members of this forum making any comparisons of live and recorded sound. I suspect few go to live performances, as is true with the rest of the population.

 The state of the art of recorded sound and playback is very good but there are still issues which I doubt that even a megabuck system is going to solve. 

 I am more likely to listen to the 007A's for orchestral work but but I prefer the Sigma/404 more for opera and choral music. I am not sure how the Sigma/202 sounds compared to the Sigma/404. The trandsucers are simliar, but the 404 uses the higher grade cable the same as the 007. I suspect the Sigma/202 is closer in sound to the original Sigma pro. I have one, put together by Stax some years ago and it is slightly less refined in sound and has slightly less bass and treble than the Sigma/404.


----------



## mobbaddict

I had the chance to go to the Opera Bastille in Paris lastly for the first time, i was sitting well above the orchestra, and i was struck by the smoothness of the sound. I tend to think smoothness is the key quality i'm looking for when listening to any kind of music... i can't stand harshness either. I agree with you that treble is very soft in such conditions because of the physical effects both of you mentionned. After that i was curious to compare the live experience with my Lambda, not with the same recording though. I found that the Lambda's airy and delicate sound gave quite a hint of a live experience.
 Of course you can't expect the exact same experience because you're always dependant on the microphones' placement, but i can imagine how the Sigma (which i never heard) would get you closer to the live experience thanks to the speaker-like presentation.
 Warming up the amp helps too in my case. After an hour the sound gets warmer and fuller, and moreover this etch (i guess it's the infamous stats etch) i often hear (even with the SR-003) seems to disappear... leaving the headphone plugged into the amp doesn't solve the problem i think, and it's easy to check if you own two headphones. Sometimes i wish i could just plug them and enjoy the sound, but those phones seem to have their own mood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Your comment about the LNS is interesting chi2, sometimes i think that with a bit more body in the lows the LNS would be quite O2-like!


----------



## ting.mike

Hi, a while ago someone posted some frequency response curves of the Stax headphones. It was from a japanese site. Does anyone have the link? I'm looking for an SR-404 and SR-404LE frequency response curve measurements. 

 Thanks.


----------



## ting.mike

sorry for the double post.


----------



## Cya|\|

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cya|\|* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a high end speaker system. Actually, the amp is not high end, but the speakers are. The speakers are custom made, with magnesium woofer and ribbon tweeter. Ribbon tweeters are very similiar sounding to electrostatic/planar technology.
 I was thinking about buying the akg k701 and the zero dac in october, as i'm gonna transfer to a student dorm.
 Since i may miss my speakers with ribbon tweeter, i was wondering if i could somehow afford some headphones amp.
 So i wanted to ask: are the stax sr-303 different from the sr-404, or do they sound identically? 6moons says they are identical, but i'd like to ask for your opinion too.
 Also, is it possible to drive them with a cheap class d amp, so i may buy a better amp in a later moment?_

 

Does anyone know the answer to this question? Or his personal opinion is fine too ^^.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ting.mike* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, a while ago someone posted some frequency response curves of the Stax headphones. It was from a japanese site. Does anyone have the link? I'm looking for an SR-404 and SR-404LE frequency response curve measurements. 

 Thanks._

 

Probably this
ƒwƒbƒhƒzƒ“ STAX SRS-4040
ƒwƒbƒhƒzƒ“ STAX SRS-2020
ƒwƒbƒhƒzƒ“ STAX SR-007 SRM-717
 Love the 3D graphs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 By the way the bass is supposed to be flat, contrary to what these dummy heads tell.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cya|\|* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know the answer to this question? Or his personal opinion is fine too ^^._

 

The main (only) difference between the 303 and 404 is the cable. Some have suggested that Stax also does more quality matching of the drivers on the 404. The 404 uses the bigger, lower capacitance, cable the same as the 007's. 

 I have never made the direct comparison of the 404 and 303 but I have had different Lambdas including the 404, a Signature and a Nova and Sigmas' with and without the wide cable and definietey prefer the phone with the wide cables as having somewhat more detail and refinement. 

 Unless cost is a big issue I would go for the 404. Whichever way you go look into removing the foam backing behind the drivers. I feel this makes all the lambdas sound more open and less harsh.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cya|\|* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So i wanted to ask: are the stax sr-303 different from the sr-404, or do they sound identically? 6moons says they are identical, but i'd like to ask for your opinion too._

 

I have both and I prefer the 404 – but only because of the look & feel of the 404's cable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. With regard to their sonic characteristics I'm unable to hear any consistent differences.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_By the way the bass is supposed to be flat, contrary to what these dummy heads tell._

 

Frequency response curves are a most interesting phenomenon. With many headphone models I find my perceptions to more or less or even largely correspond with specific elements shown in the diagrams. With other models I'm just wondering. The bass response of the Lambdas and the O2 in these charts certainly belong to the latter. In my perception it is far from being rolled off below 40 or even 50 Hz. The actual measuring technique is crucial. Changing a detail may lead to quite different results. Seal will be the key to understanding low frequency reproduction. Still I fail to see why Lambdas and even more so the O2 should give (more) problems with seal when placed on a dummy head (than other phones).


----------



## Cya|\|

Thx for the answer guys.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Frequency response curves are a most interesting phenomenon. With many headphone models I find my perceptions to more or less or even largely correspond with specific elements shown in the diagrams. With other models I'm just wondering. The bass response of the Lambdas and the O2 in these charts certainly belong to the latter. In my perception it is far from being rolled off below 40 or even 50 Hz. The actual measuring technique is crucial. Changing a detail may lead to quite different results. Seal will be the key to understanding low frequency reproduction. Still I fail to see why Lambdas and even more so the O2 should give (more) problems with seal when placed on a dummy head (than other phones)._

 

Maybe the sculptured earpads don't sit properly except on real skin rather than whatever a dummy head is made of?


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Frequency response curves are a most interesting phenomenon. With many headphone models I find my perceptions to more or less or even largely correspond with specific elements shown in the diagrams. With other models I'm just wondering. The bass response of the Lambdas and the O2 in these charts certainly belong to the latter. In my perception it is far from being rolled off below 40 or even 50 Hz. The actual measuring technique is crucial. Changing a detail may lead to quite different results. Seal will be the key to understanding low frequency reproduction. Still I fail to see why Lambdas and even more so the O2 should give (more) problems with seal when placed on a dummy head (than other phones)._

 

Take a look at pages 3 & 4 of this study, where they measure the Lambda Pro, it explains a lot of things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/25/4/276/_pdf
 Do you really think the Lambdas are on par with the O2 regarding deep bass? I felt the O2 was on another level when i auditioned it.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Take a look at pages 3 & 4 of this study, where they measure the Lambda Pro, it explains a lot of things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/25/4/276/_pdf_

 

Figure 18 is pretty handy too. Completely open the -3dB point is above 100Hz; completely sealed it drops to 30Hz.


----------



## chi2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Take a look at pages 3 & 4 of this study, where they measure the Lambda Pro, it explains a lot of things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/25/4/276/_pdf_

 

Excellent paper w/ great information, thanks! So the seal is not only crucial, as I knew & stated, but may also more difficult to realize with a Lambda on a dummy head than with other brands/form factors (which was somewhat of a surprise to me).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you really think the Lambdas are on par with the O2 regarding deep bass? I felt the O2 was on another level when i auditioned it._

 

Oh, I was only talking of bass quantity by frequency. The Lambdas can go down really deep. However, with regard to dynamics, impact, precision, and spacial localization the O2 certainly plays in different league.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Take a look at pages 3 & 4 of this study, where they measure the Lambda Pro, it explains a lot of things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/25/4/276/_pdf
 Do you really think the Lambdas are on par with the O2 regarding deep bass? I felt the O2 was on another level when i auditioned it._

 

Doesn't surprise me. I thought that the 007A had less deep bass than the 404 when I first got mine. Later this was not so either because of break-in or the fact that I did Spritzer's spring mod on the 007A. When I compared my 007A with the 007 Mk1 at Cajam, I thought both had about the same bass extension although the 007A had some bass boom.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent paper w/ great information, thanks! So the seal is not only crucial, as I knew & stated, but may also more difficult to realize with a Lambda on a dummy head than with other brands/form factors (which was somewhat of a surprise to me).

 Oh, I was only talking of bass quantity by frequency. The Lambdas can go down really deep. However, with regard to dynamics, impact, precision, and spacial localization the O2 certainly plays in different league._

 

The Lambda earpad is contoured to fit most peoples' heads, not a flat coupler. This obviously helps its good bass response, even vis a vis the 007.


----------



## Rick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for Warren Audio, you are aware that it is just cheap magnet wire in those cables right? That is the cheapest wire you can find at any electronics store to wind your own transformers, coils etc. Couple that with the fact that the idiot can't even solder and you've certainly got the combination of a true winner... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I have my wire custom made by a reputable company with an enameled insulative material surrounding the conductors, and with good reason. 

 And that "idiot" happens to be producing cables that have done nothing less than "awe" and "amaze" any customer who has acquired one.

 Not exactly sure what you think you're gaining by spouting nonsense and slander, but it's really only detrimental to your own integrity.


----------



## Duggeh

Rick, I strongly suggest that you not call Spritzers integrity into question. In this thread of all places.

 If any customer who has ever bought a cable from you has been nothing less than "awed and amazed" then you may do well to ask yourself about the capacity for articulation your customers have. I won't go on on that topic though.

 The comments relating to the soldering jobs on your cables are neither nonsense or slander. I've seen the pictures.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chi2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, I was only talking of bass quantity by frequency. The Lambdas can go down really deep. However, with regard to dynamics, impact, precision, and spacial localization the O2 certainly plays in different league._

 

I meant bass quantity as well, i agree that Lambdas can go deep but i felt the O2 had much more deep bass... much better impact to my ears because of that. Maybe i should try to seal it completely with tape like Beefy pointed out


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have my wire custom made by a reputable company with an enameled insulative material surrounding the conductors, and with good reason._

 

I'm sure you have patent pending too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Show me the invoice for the cable order and I'll believe you but I doubt you forked out the huge sum for custom made wire. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And that "idiot" happens to be producing cables that have done nothing less than "awe" and "amaze" any customer who has acquired one.

 Not exactly sure what you think you're gaining by spouting nonsense and slander, but it's really only detrimental to your own integrity._

 

People were also amazed by Single Power amps and look at how that turned out...

 You are welcome to question my integrity but I have never defrauded anybody here (which you have and it is well documented) or used the community to pimp my own crap.


----------



## Clarkmc2

The only time I will ever attempt to modify a description by Spritzer. While his English is as good or better than mine, it is not his first language. I am like the Korbin Dallas character, speaking only two languages: English and Bad English.

 Magnet wire is "cheap" as in _inexpensive_ (low in cost), but it is not cheap as in_ poorly made_. It is refined well enough - there is zero provable evidence for any audible superiority of ultra refined or oxygen free copper - and is generally coated by two or three differing layers of polymer. Those layers are tougher than just about any other insulation available and are flexible as well. If you don't use a solder pot, I can tell you from experience you will have a time of it scraping the insulation off.

 In other words, the standard industrial product is very high quality. To launch a preemptive strike, as for skin effect, any engineering table of wire electrical properties will demonstrate that at audio frequencies it is not a factor in any way. The only criticism I could have of vendors selling magnet wire for audio use is that they charge an obscene amount for it. I pay full retail, twenty US dollars for one pound spools of double insulated.

 I was turned on to magnet wire by a designer of very high performance horn systems. He designs field coil compression drivers for them and always uses relatively small magnet wire as speaker "cable".

 As for soldering, a lot of us have trouble with it. Most high end cable manufactures have for many years used Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder and it makes life much easier. All the melt solidifies at the same temperature, so no crystals of single metals are formed. It is almost impossible to form a cold solder joint with it. It is also easier to use than lead/tin solder. Once you try it, you will never go back. Since the Pb police will soon outlaw lead in solder, Cardas already offers a lead free Tri Eutectic product. I believe Kester also makes a eutectic solder, but I have no personal experience with it.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

Well English is my fourth language but yes, I meant inexpensive. Nothing wrong with the wire, but passing it off as something special isn't cool. 

 Any 60/40 solder should slow well enough to make a perfect joint if you know how to use it. The Cardas stuff is good but I can get the same results from any silver bearing solder. Personally I use Kester since I got a bunch of it at a decent price and it is very fine (as in gauge) like the 250gr. WBT spools.


----------



## Duggeh

Icelandic, Norwegian, Swedish, English? (German, Japanese, French?). In that order?


----------



## Currawong

I'm using Oyaide without lead, though I used silver-bearing lead solder for years. I should have bought a thinner gauge though as I need a bit too much heat to get a good joint going, which can be trouble with jacks or wire that don't use a teflon dielectric. I probably should get some Cardas as it will be much less hassle when stuffing boards or if I ever screw up and have to change something.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Icelandic, Norwegian, Swedish, English? (German, Japanese, French?). In that order?_

 

Icelandic, Danish (and thus Swedish and Norwegian), German and English.


----------



## dreamwhisper

How long is it supposed to take for the O2's diagram to build up a charge plugged into your amp?
 Is it better to leave your amp on?


 I'm noticing the sound getting better and better the longer I leave the amp on...
 Although maybe that's my 717 burning in :O,
 I bought it from Dinan with only 100 hours on it!


----------



## spritzer

As the amp warms up it will sound better since components are more linear at their ideal operating temp. Also when the amp was setup at the factory it was done after the amp had been running for a few hours so only then is it running at full spec. This happens with every piece of kit in your system.


----------



## wink

Spritzer posted:-
 Icelandic, Danish (and thus Swedish and Norwegian), German and English. .

 It is a well known fact that us antipodeans all are bilingual.
 Our two main languages are English and obscene, and most are more fluent in the latter than the former - to our great shame.
 We inherit the worst of both the Yanks and Old Blightey.
 Anyone resorting to obscenities usually is showing off their lack of moral good taste or a decided lack of the grasp of English to express themselves, and thus resorting to unsavoury expletives in place of true colourful adjectives to enhance their prosaic verbal communications.


----------



## wink

Double post occasioned by an altercation with the speed of the download and my impatience to have it posted.

 Keep up the good work, Spritzer.


----------



## jgazal

This will be an odd question, but is it possible to use a Stax O2 as a microphone?


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jgazal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This will be an odd question, but is it possible to use a Stax O2 as a microphone?_

 






 have you heard of any other headphones being used as a microphone??


----------



## jgazal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjinh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 have you heard of any other headphones being used as a microphone??_

 

Actually no... 

 I thought condenser microphones had the same characteristics (a capacitor). I was actually imagining recording and reproducing with the same transducers exactly at the same position. I think no studio would be interested in selling such recording. I would like to record that way though, for my own and only delight. Just that...

 What I really wanted to know is the consequence of using phantom power (48V, while bias during reproduction is higher ~500v), how to do the connections to a balanced microphone pre-amp etc. Main concern is that the space between the stators may differ when we need to record. Just want to know if it is feasible to record as it is.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any 60/40 solder should slow well enough to make a perfect joint if you know how to use it. The Cardas stuff is good but I can get the same results from any silver bearing solder. Personally I use Kester since I got a bunch of it at a decent price and it is very fine (as in gauge) like the 250gr. WBT spools._

 

I have a 250g WBT spool right here and it is indeed the same diameter - 0.8mm it says - as the Cardas Quad Eutectic. 

 I also have in my hand an example of your soldering and you are way better than I am. While you could probably get a good solder joint using bullets melted in tin cans, we less talented solder sniffers benefit greatly from using eutectic solders. They are nearly goof proof. I also tend to believe Mr. Cardas about them yielding a better quality joint than 60/40, everything else being equal.

 Clark


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a 250g WBT spool right here and it is indeed the same diameter - 0.8mm it says - as the Cardas Quad Eutectic. 

 I also have in my hand an example of your soldering and you are way better than I am. While you could probably get a good solder joint using bullets melted in tin cans, we less talented solder sniffers benefit greatly from using eutectic solders. They are nearly goof proof. I also tend to believe Mr. Cardas about them yielding a better quality joint than 60/40, everything else being equal.

 Clark_

 

Ahh I must have had a thicker version of the Cardas as it was 1+mm.

 I was soldering about 20 boards at a time and since it is a PSU, not being as obsessive about the perfect joint as I'm with amplifier boards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That said the Cardas solder does have benefits where the parts can move since there is no "slushy" middle stage. Holding a hot wire calmly while the solder settles takes a steady hand and some tolerance for pain.


----------



## paaj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjinh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 have you heard of any other headphones being used as a microphone??_

 

It's possible to use dynamics as microphones (iBuds are even worse as microphones than as earbuds though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## PianoForte

Hey guys, advice needed...
 So, I went ahead and purchased the 3050ii system when I was in Osaka last week. I'm honestly ecstatic abut them (no "electro" static jokes, please! I already thought of them!) My source is my computer fed by usb into the headroom total bithead and connected to the srm-323 by a y-cable. I'm guessing that's my weak link, right?... I know that's probably a crime... So can you not throw me in prison and instead, help me if I'm willing to rectify my bad deed? I can't throw down a 1000 dollars on a new source. I'm thinking the 500 dollar range. The general consensus is that the stax are very sensitive to source, so I'm hoping I can gather a general consensus on what's going to "work." Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 Thanks a lot!


----------



## Elephas

I want to hear some "electro" static jokes!

 I assume you want to stick with a computer-as-source/transport.

 Maybe something like the CEC DA53N through its USB input would do nicely for now, it should be well-priced in Japan.

CEC @DA53N


----------



## graben

Does anyone have any info on the SRM-353S? Price or release date? I have been STAX free for a couple of years and feel them calling me... What is the going price for a srd7 these days?


----------



## Currawong

Are you registered with Yahoo Auctions? I forgot. Occasionally some great sources show up there. For new, I'm going to suggest the Audio-gd DAC19, which fits your budget and which I'd take over your Benchmarks and Lavrys. I'm sure other people will suggest from their own experience as usual.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wink* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer posted:-
 Icelandic, Danish (and thus Swedish and Norwegian), German and English. .

 It is a well known fact that us antipodeans all are bilingual.
 Our two main languages are English and obscene, and most are more fluent in the latter than the former - to our great shame.
 We inherit the worst of both the Yanks and Old Blightey.
 Anyone resorting to obscenities usually is showing off their lack of moral good taste or a decided lack of the grasp of English to express themselves, and thus resorting to unsavoury expletives in place of true colourful adjectives to enhance their prosaic verbal communications._

 

Strewth! They don't speak Strine anymore downunder?


----------



## PianoForte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you registered with Yahoo Auctions? I forgot. Occasionally some great sources show up there. For new, I'm going to suggest the Audio-gd DAC19, which fits your budget and which I'd take over your Benchmarks and Lavrys. I'm sure other people will suggest from their own experience as usual. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks Currawong. Im not yet registered with yahoo auctions in japan, but i've been browsing and seeing some great prices on the usually way overpriced export items in japan. I was eying the dac19 because it's right in my price range, but of course I don't want to choose something solely based on price... Also, what is your opinion of the t1? Right now they're selling one on yahoo auctions for 30,000 yen. Is that a good deal?

 Thanks a bunch!


----------



## ktm

Well, the 404le type leather pads came in today. I put them on the sr-202's. Warmer sound and less sweat. 
 I still don't know if the sound is because of 
 A:thinner pad/ear closer to driver 
 B:the leather material helps the low end 
 C:the cloth over the driver area doesn't pass as many highs as the foam.

 I put them on the 202's rather than the 404's because I'm thinking about keeping them and selling the 404's. 
 Either way, both sets sound much better on the exstata. I suspect all the above to have effect on the sound. 
 There will have to be a better set of cans from the Stax lineup purchased at some point if my second son 
 EVER finishes college!


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There will have to be a better set of cans from the Stax lineup purchased at some point if my second son 
 EVER finishes college!_

 

LOL. I am on the same boat. 2 in college, one finishing high school in 2 months. I am paying for the full tuition myself so they don't have any loans. 
 Very expensive, otherwise I would have already bought me a Blue Hawaii and O2's. Oh well..... at least 4 more years. Then weddings and who knows what else.... house is more than 2/3's paid for though...


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PianoForte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Currawong. Im not yet registered with yahoo auctions in japan, but i've been browsing and seeing some great prices on the usually way overpriced export items in japan. I was eying the dac19 because it's right in my price range, but of course I don't want to choose something solely based on price... Also, what is your opinion of the t1? Right now they're selling one on yahoo auctions for 30,000 yen. Is that a good deal?

 Thanks a bunch!_

 

For 30k-yen, the T1 is a great bargain IMO. I'm using the T1S (it has balanced input) with Lambda Nova Signatures and it's pretty good.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PianoForte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, advice needed...
 So, I went ahead and purchased the 3050ii system when I was in Osaka last week. I'm honestly ecstatic abut them (no "electro" static jokes, please! I already thought of them!) My source is my computer fed by usb into the headroom total bithead and connected to the srm-323 by a y-cable. I'm guessing that's my weak link, right?... I know that's probably a crime... So can you not throw me in prison and instead, help me if I'm willing to rectify my bad deed? I can't throw down a 1000 dollars on a new source. I'm thinking the 500 dollar range. The general consensus is that the stax are very sensitive to source, so I'm hoping I can gather a general consensus on what's going to "work." Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 Thanks a lot!_

 

You could look at the Pico DAC only, or IBasso D4 or D10, or if you'd like 24/96 USB DAC you could look at the Centrance DACport which works quite well as a preamp into Stax amps, or consider the Nuforce HDP. The D10 and HDP will also do optical and coax. The Headroom Micro DAC is another one to consider, but some people complain about the USB having more jitter than others (e.g. antonyfirst). If you have a Mac with firewire an Apogee Duet would be another consideration. I have reviews on some of this stuff, see my sig line to find links.

 I have tried most of these DACs to feed a Woo GES or eXStatA electrostatic amp, and they are very detailed and transparent sounding and a good value for under $500. The DACport and Apogee will be a little warmer sounding than the others, and might complement the SR-303 more since it's a nice match for my HE60, but I can't say for sure. I would pick one of the others when using my SR-007 or an SR-404LE, but they should also be fine for your rig.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PianoForte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, advice needed...
 So, I went ahead and purchased the 3050ii system when I was in Osaka last week. I'm honestly ecstatic abut them (no "electro" static jokes, please! I already thought of them!) My source is my computer fed by usb into the headroom total bithead and connected to the srm-323 by a y-cable. I'm guessing that's my weak link, right?... I know that's probably a crime... So can you not throw me in prison and instead, help me if I'm willing to rectify my bad deed? I can't throw down a 1000 dollars on a new source. I'm thinking the 500 dollar range. The general consensus is that the stax are very sensitive to source, so I'm hoping I can gather a general consensus on what's going to "work." Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 Thanks a lot!_

 

Are you using your MacBook Pro? If so, I recommend switching to the optical out and finding a Parasound 1100.


----------



## Bullseye

Hmm then you prefer the 202 over the 404, could you elaborate?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ktm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I put them on the 202's rather than the 404's because I'm thinking about keeping them and selling the 404's. _


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm then you prefer the 202 over the 404, could you elaborate?_

 

A lot of people don't like the 404. I thought that was fairly well known.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm then you prefer the 202 over the 404, could you elaborate?_

 

Some say the SR404 have an upper mids/lower treble etch or aggressiveness which the SR-202 don't have, and although the SR-202 don't have as much micro-detail the SR-202's musical presentation is more balanced. 

 The SR-404LE didn't have that etch either, and I liked them more than my SR-Lambda (or an SR-Lambda Signature), but I haven't been able to compare an LE to the 404 or 202. I ended up selling them to help pay for my Woo WES, with which the SR-007 were a noticeable step up from the 404LE when I demo'd it at RMAF before I bought it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some say the SR404 have an upper mids/lower treble etch or aggressiveness which the SR-202 don't have, and although the SR-202 don't have as much micro-detail the SR-202's musical presentation is more balanced. 

 The SR-404LE didn't have that etch either, and I liked them more than my SR-Lambda (or an SR-Lambda Signature), but I haven't been able to compare an LE to the 404 or 202. I ended up selling them to help pay for my Woo WES, with which the SR-007 were a noticeable step up from the 404LE when I demo'd it at RMAF before I bought it._

 

Doesn't the 404LE use a different cable than the 404 and 007? 

 The mid/upper midrange problem went away for me when I got rid of the foam behind the drivers. I have don't use it in my Signature either.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Doesn't the 404LE use a different cable than the 404 and 007?_

 

I don't believe so. All the same PC-OCC cable, also used in the SRE-7** extensions cords.


----------



## padam

Yes it does.

 "Use of a newly developed silver-plated hybrid cable: 
 Even when the same speaker unit is being used, the final sound quality is likely to differ considerably depending on the capacity and dimensional ratio of the enclosure, the structure, the materials, the design and parts of the network, and even the cables used for internal wiring. This means that, when evaluating the cables used in an audio system, it is necessary to pay particular attention to a whole range of conditions such as the current transmission section and the voltage transmission section. In the case of headphones, it's also important to take account especially of flexibility and of internal breakage which is caused by the extremely high flexing frequency during use. The STAX SR-404 Limited is equipped with an exclusive, newly developed cable. The core cable makes use of highly reputed 6N Cu high-purity soft copper cable (diameter of 0.14 x 3) with six silver-plated soft copper wires (diameter of 0.08 x 9) set around the core cable. In order to reduce the volume between the wires, the overall structure is of the parallel type as in the case of previous models. This has made it possible to enhance yet further the freshness of the sound and to add a sense of natural and immediate luster to the sound of the existing Lambda series."

 Btw, here is a comparison between SR-Lambda Pro, SR-404, SR-404LE (the KGSS might not be the best match for these)


----------



## chi2

Sort of an homeopathic principle: "similia similibus curantur". Take silver and add "luster" to the sound of a phone prone to overemphasized lower highs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. This made me wonder if the 404LE would be a good idea. But the general positive reviews were quite big a surprise to me and I had to correct my prejudice. However, I still haven't heard it on my own.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes it does._

 

Fair enough.

 But good god, what awful marketing. As in, whooops, I just stepped in a great big steaming pile of bullmarketing.


----------



## padam

Interestingly, the comparison wrote that resolution-wise all three Lambdas are pretty much on the same level and only the sound signature which is different among them, so the cable is probably what makes very little difference to the sound (at least according to the reviewer).


----------



## padam

Double post..


----------



## spritzer

I doubt the cable has any part of the difference over the stock SR-404. Replacing the driver with the one used in the SR-SC1 would be a more plausible theory...


----------



## ktm

The 404 has some positive features. The improvement in amplification 
 helped a lot. But as much as I like detail, I always will go for the best 
 "musical" sound. The 404 can sound unnatural at times. I'll have to do
 some more listening. But I think the less detailed, but non-etched sound
 wins (I hate using that phrase, sounds like the veil in Senn bashing).
 That's always a trade off. More detail normally means brighter highs. 
 Of course the higher end stuff can reclaim detail without being bright, but
 you are going to pay $$$$ for that improvement.


----------



## gilency

I really liked the 404's when I had them. I do like the SP more though...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I doubt the cable has any part of the difference over the stock SR-404. Replacing the driver with the one used in the SR-SC1 would be a more plausible theory..._

 

I am sure if Stax was changing the driver they would advertise that fact. They have never been shy about touting such things and it would allow them to raise the price further. It seems we are down to the pads and the cable to explain the sound differences. I would think both would be significant. 

 The review seemed pretty decent and detailed. It is the only direct comparison I have seen between the 404 and 404LE. Is it true that Stax will be putting out a 404 Mk2?

 However, I am bothered by an observation like this: 

 "I'm also bothered that the superior speed of these lambdas tend to cut the delay unnaturally short. This may not be an issue with some other music though."

 He's got the cart before the horse here. The slower speed of the the various dynamics he refers to and presumably listens to, create an unnaturally long decay. I don't see how a driver can be too fast, speed is a key aspect of accuracy, it means among other things accurate transients and resolution of details. It reminded me of some observations I read in times past where people accused the Staxen of creating excessive detail rather than just playing back what was in the recording and which could not be resolved with the slower dynamics. They can't be faster than the signal they reproduce.

 I would like to know how the LE souds with the foam behind the drivers removed. I felt that the foam hurt the sound of each of the Lambdas I have. Anyone who is considering selling their Lambdas for something else should try this mod first.


----------



## Rick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Rick, I strongly suggest that you not call Spritzers integrity into question. In this thread of all places.

 If any customer who has ever bought a cable from you has been nothing less than "awed and amazed" then you may do well to ask yourself about the capacity for articulation your customers have. I won't go on on that topic though.

 The comments relating to the soldering jobs on your cables are neither nonsense or slander. I've seen the pictures._

 

Did you honestly just state that the likes of HeadphoneAddict to lack capacity for articulation?

 And photos from a year ago are hardly relevant.


----------



## n3rdling

Lots of posts means nothing. I actively go against the recommendations of some of these self proclaimed "reviewers".


----------



## spritzer

I don't think anybody would take a "review" Larry writes seriously. He lacks experience to write truly insightful reviews and to be critical enough for the reviews to matter which is why manufacturers take advantage of him to peddle their crap. This is the same reason nobody takes "reviews" from the likes of Stereophile, What Hi-Fi, 6moons etc. seriously. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am sure if Stax was changing the driver they would advertise that fact. They have never been shy about touting such things and it would allow them to raise the price further. It seems we are down to the pads and the cable to explain the sound differences. I would think both would be significant._

 

The earpads are all but identical to the new SR-404 earpads and since the cable is the same size as the older Wide PC-OCC the difference should be tiny compared to a SR-303/404 cable comparison. 

 You are thinking of old Stax when it comes to driver specs, new Stax is reluctant to post any specs of the drivers. You will be hard pressed to find any info as to how SR-001 Mk1 and Mk2 differ. The driver is also identical from the outside, the mylar is just treated differently.


----------



## PianoForte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could look at the Pico DAC only, or IBasso D4 or D10, or if you'd like 24/96 USB DAC you could look at the Centrance DACport which works quite well as a preamp into Stax amps, or consider the Nuforce HDP. The D10 and HDP will also do optical and coax. The Headroom Micro DAC is another one to consider, but some people complain about the USB having more jitter than others (e.g. antonyfirst). If you have a Mac with firewire an Apogee Duet would be another consideration. I have reviews on some of this stuff, see my sig line to find links.

 I have tried most of these DACs to feed a Woo GES or eXStatA electrostatic amp, and they are very detailed and transparent sounding and a good value for under $500. The DACport and Apogee will be a little warmer sounding than the others, and might complement the SR-303 more since it's a nice match for my HE60, but I can't say for sure. I would pick one of the others when using my SR-007 or an SR-404LE, but they should also be fine for your rig._

 

Thanks for your advice. Unfortunately these items you mention are rather expensive to obtain here from Japan unless you know of a cheaper way. I think I might try to stick to either Japan in this case. Have you used the Audio G-D 19 that Currawong mentioned?


----------



## Voltron

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have my wire custom made by a reputable company with an enameled insulative material surrounding the conductors, and with good reason. 

 And that "idiot" happens to be producing cables that *have done nothing less than "awe" and "amaze" any customer who has acquired one*.

 Not exactly sure what you think you're gaining by spouting nonsense and slander, but it's really only detrimental to your own integrity._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you honestly just state that the likes of HeadphoneAddict to lack capacity for articulation?

 And photos from a year ago are hardly relevant._

 

Did you honestly suggest that _*every one of your customers who has ever bought your cables*_ was completely satisfied to the extent of being awed and amazed? You can change your company name and you can change your screen name but you cannot change the fact that _*you are the same guy who sold a bunch of misrepresented and defective cables*_ through this very website. Pictures of your past work and your excuses and arguments with your _*unsatisfied customers*_ are documented elsewhere on Head-Fi and don't need to be repeated here to back up Spritzer's comments. Find another thread to peddle your wares.


----------



## Duggeh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you honestly just state that the likes of HeadphoneAddict to lack capacity for articulation?

 And photos from a year ago are hardly relevant._

 

No I didn't state that, because you didn't mention anybody by name previously. However as you raise by specific example someone who you believe to be held in high esteem as an example I'll say that my position regarding your selection of a large post-count member is similar to, but identical to, that of Spritzer.

 Photos from a year ago are just as relevent as ones from yesterday or next Tuesday. You managed to improve upwards from grossly incompetant (along with a complete rebrand of your venture aiding to dispell the demons of your woeful first go), but that doesn't mean that you didn't start there. If you'd -=remained=- there that would of course have been worse.

 Combining the two points, I seem to recall that HeadphoneAddict gave a hugely positive review of one of your products despite the fact that its was fundamentally physically unstable. Reasoning along the lines of "when it worked it sounded excellent". A bit like some of the people who bought a Singlepower ES-1 I guess. Or a Phase Linear power amp. I was asked to review a cake for a baking website once. The lemon icing was only average, but the parts of the sponge which weren't filled with maggots were excellent.


----------



## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Icelandic, Danish (and thus Swedish and Norwegian), German and English._

 

Impressive, but I speak Yankee, Southern and a bit of Ebonics too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duggeh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was asked to review a cake for a baking website once. The lemon icing was only average, but the parts of the sponge which weren't filled with maggots were excellent._

 

Best analogy of the year!


----------



## smeggy

Mmmm, maggot cake! My fave


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you honestly just state that the likes of HeadphoneAddict to lack capacity for articulation?

 And photos from a year ago are hardly relevant._

 

Dude, I really think you're in the wrong thread.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Nevermind, it's not worth it.


----------



## dreamwhisper

How fragile are the O2's?
 If you let the cups spring back together or even drop them god forbid, could the drivers be damaged?
 Would the mylar diagragm ever be jossled and rub against a stator?


----------



## The Monkey

I had one hell of a time replacing the arc assembly and headband on mine. There were times when I simply couldn't be gentle. And the O2s are still strong. That said, 2 things scare me: 1) dropping them and 2) yanking the cable from the earcups.


----------



## Duggeh

Impact damage is one of the better ways to kill a stat driver. Dropping them is certainly not advisable, and very very not advisable for less solidly put together offerings like the SR-Omega, HE90 and HE-60.

 If you want to drop stats and feel okay about it, get a set of SR-003.


----------



## dreamwhisper

I want to wear gloves when putting them on though because they sound nothing short of world class...
 But between the rotation of the O2's cups of and the Stax farts I can't help but think of it as being as fragile as a Fabergbé egg.

 I guess it would be nice to know that they are as fragile as any dynamic can, and not about to break suddenly if I breathe on them the wrong way or something.


----------



## padam

And be very-very careful with the SR-007 Mk1 cable!


----------



## n3rdling

Cable entry aside, the O2 seems very solidly constructed to me. I'd only be a little worried about dropping them because of their weight.


----------



## Deadneddz

On the MKI, is the cable entry where the three solder joints are, clamped by the strain relief? Hopefully this is the case because i'd hate to think about the durability of the solder joints being pulled everytime the phone is picked up. I'm sure this is not the case though, but the cable is just so damn heavy compared to most other headphone cables.


----------



## edstrelow

I don't find any stats at all fragile. I've got some that i have had 30 plus years. I did once split a Sigma driver but it took a lot of force. That said, I still try to treat them with care.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dreamwhisper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How fragile are the O2's?
 If you let the cups spring back together or even drop them god forbid, could the drivers be damaged?
 Would the mylar diagragm ever be jossled and rub against a stator?_

 

Mine have hit the floor a few times and they will just shrug it off with not damage what so ever. The driver is made out of a PCB material (not regular FR4 though) and encased in a resin shell. That is in turn bolted to the aluminum shell so there is no way in hell anything could break loose or even move a fraction of a millimeter. 

 Mylar has immense tensile strength and will never, ever become loose, stretched or anything like that. Even if it were to touch the stator then it doesn't matter as it is insulated. Direct sunlight isn't kind to mylar but aside from that it is usually the glue that fails before the mylar looses tension. Remarkable material if the manufacturer uses "the good stuff" as there is a number of different materials under the mylar brand name. 

 Now the only real weakness of the SR-007 Mk1 is indeed the cable or rather, how it enters the housing. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the MKI, is the cable entry where the three solder joints are, clamped by the strain relief? Hopefully this is the case because i'd hate to think about the durability of the solder joints being pulled everytime the phone is picked up. I'm sure this is not the case though, but the cable is just so damn heavy compared to most other headphone cables._

 

The cable entry is clamped between the metal housing and the perforated plate that protects the drivers and is hidden by the earpads. There is even a bit of slack for the cable so you should never be able to place any force on the solder connections. Now the problem with the Mk1 is that the strain relief is useless so the cable will break next to it. 

 There is a simple reason for the cable being so heavy, plenty of copper. Compared to the tiny amount in the HE60/90 cable it may seem excessive but it does make it easier to terminate and it will last longer since there are so many strands to break until you finally loose contact.


----------



## Deadneddz

I shook my head when I saw the strain relief on the MKI in comparison to the MK2. It shouldn't even be called a strain relief.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thanks for the clarification on the solder joints. Its good to know that theres some extra slack fastened tightly to the frame.


----------



## spritzer

Here you can see the Mk1 vs. Mk2 comparison. Much better solution on the Mk2... 

*




*

 The black protective grill then attaches to the white, resin frame.


----------



## johnmatrix

I spent 6 weeks looking for a ground loop in my amp that ended up being a broken connector in my O2mkI. I want to find the engineer that came up with that "strain relief" and strangle him. However, everything else seems to be top notch in the O2 and now that I know about that problem I can fix it myself if it happens again.


----------



## spritzer

The "funny" thing is that the strain relief on the Mk2 is just like the one used on the SR-Omega...


----------



## J-Pak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnmatrix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent 6 weeks looking for a ground loop in my amp that ended up being a broken connector in my O2mkI. I want to find the engineer that came up with that "strain relief" and strangle him. However, everything else seems to be top notch in the O2 and now that I know about that problem I can fix it myself if it happens again._

 

What is the simple fix, you'd have to replace the entire cable if that wire broke wouldn't you


----------



## jaycalgary

Double post


----------



## jaycalgary

I have Lambda Pros I wasn't as gental as I should have been. The left side had more of a Stax "fart" but I have come to the conclusion that I just lean to that side more and all is well. The other part is I thought maybe dust or foam debris may have hit the driver in the back so I blew in there. The result was sound got severely distorted and could hear hardly nothing. Well a light smack and all was fine. I tried the same with the right side and the same result. I eventually found where the screws where opened them up and all looked well even the drivers look like they have a good quality to them. They seem to sound the same as when I got them. I wouldn't blow air in the back again but do you think I did any damage? They fell 2 feet to carpet floor didn't hear any difference didn't even think about it till I saw this part of the discussion.


----------



## johnmatrix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J-Pak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the simple fix, you'd have to replace the entire cable if that wire broke wouldn't you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Naw, I just had to resolder the cable back to the contact point. Easy fix, though kind of stressful when I realized I was fooling around in $1500 headphones.


----------



## bralk

Hi

 I just received a pair of the new leather ear pads (the 404 LE type) and I am now wondering whether to put them on a pair of 202s or 404s.

 Any suggestions ?

 Cheers

 Tom


----------



## jaycalgary

"new leather ear pads (the 404 LE type)" 
 Real leather? Where are these available? Are they very expensive? I have a Lambda pro and a Lambda signature on the way. From what I understand they are a bit thinner than other Stax pads. Will these old Lambdas benefit much from new pads? The foam is also gone on both the old pairs. Does the Stax "fart" become any less noticeable after new pads or the new ones will probably be air tight also and no real difference?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"new leather ear pads (the 404 LE type)" 
 Real leather? Where are these available? Are they very expensive? I have a Lambda pro and a Lambda signature on the way. From what I understand they are a bit thinner than other Stax pads. Will these old Lambdas benefit much from new pads? The foam is also gone on both the old pairs. Does the Stax "fart" become any less noticeable after new pads or the new ones will probably be air tight also and no real difference?_

 

Yes - they are real leather (lamb). I ordered them from Craig at KuboTEN.
 Very friendly and dependable. 77$ including shipping to Europe.
 Now I just wonder where to install them (202 or 404)

 cheers


----------



## Bullseye

Go for the ones you enjoy most. Or for the ones that have them more deteriorated. Your call


----------



## bralk

They are now installed on the 202.
 They are very comfortable to wear. The bass is significantly cleaner and more precise, midtones a bit recessed and with a pleasant treble (no sizzle), no big change there.

 They now sound a lot like the LNS and better than the 404. I think the 404 could benefit from these pad as well, if the change in the midtones will be the same as with the 202.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## mobbaddict

bralk: how big are the LNS pads in comparison?


----------



## bralk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_bralk: how big are the LNS pads in comparison?_

 


 Difficult to measure correctly, but the LNS pads seem to be about 25% thicker at the front parts. Very small difference, but perhaps enough to shift 
 the sound signature in the lower frequencies, which is where the 202 really changed. The 202s are at least 100% thicker at the front parts of the pads.

 cheers

 Tom


----------



## mobbaddict

Thanks! So the LNS pads are much closer to the 404LEs... i'm a bit confused though, i just checked on audiocubes2 and the LNS seems to share the same pads as the regular 404. Is it true? I wonder if this would make the LNS sound warmer.

 On a sidenote this comparative review is quite interesting as they measured the size of different pads
SR-404LE, SR-404 Signature, and SR-Lambda Pro | Headfonia


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mobbaddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! So the LNS pads are much closer to the 404LEs... i'm a bit confused though, i just checked on audiocubes2 and the LNS seems to share the same pads as the regular 404._

 

Original LNS pads might have been thinner than the 404 pads. But you can't get original LNS pads anymore; spares are only available for in-production models, unless you are lucky enough to find somewhere with NOS.

 So your choices for buying new pads for any Lambda model now are the 202/303/404 pads which I believe are all the same thickness in different colours, or the thinner 404LE pads.


----------



## ktm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bralk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are now installed on the 202.
 They are very comfortable to wear. The bass is significantly cleaner and more precise, midtones a bit recessed and with a pleasant treble (no sizzle), no big change there.

 They now sound a lot like the LNS and better than the 404. I think the 404 could benefit from these pad as well, if the change in the midtones will be the same as with the 202.

 cheers

 Tom_

 

I did exactlythe same thing. The 404's would improve I think,but at this
 point the 202's are the keepers. If I hang on to the 404's for more than
 a cuple of months, I may try it, but for now the 202 leather set up
 is the clear winner.


----------



## spritzer

The stock LNS pads were the same size as the original Lambda pads (I had some nos sets here) but the material they used is utterly terrible.


----------



## Bullseye

Hmm interesting to see that more than one think that the 202 w/ leather pads has an edge over the 404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Might end up buying those pads.


----------



## Currawong

I'd forgotten that, IIRC, the pads on my LNS set were replaced by the previous owner. That likely means they are 404 pads. Not sure how the sound is affected. I'm sure I don't get a perfect seal though, but I do like the somewhat unnecessary extra bass.


----------



## mobbaddict

Okay thanks so i definitely have the 404 pads on mine... damn i wish i had those LE pads to try out


----------



## jaycalgary

Was the Lambda Signature and SRM/1 - Mk/2 about $3000 when they were new?


----------



## gilency

I just scored a Sigma! 
 I am really excited since I will have both: a normal bias and a pro. 
 I will compare both and then decide whether they are both keepers or eventually upgrade one of them to a Sigma/404.
 Da*n you guys, this was an unnecessary purchase!


----------



## krmathis

^ Congratulations with the score.
 What does not one do to stay the 'world's foremost expert' on these things..


----------



## padam

Just don't forget to lower the bias on the exstata before plugging them


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just don't forget to lower the bias on the exstata before plugging them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thank you Padam. Actually it will be used with my SRD7 Mk2. (although it did come with an SRD7-normal bias, which I will keep for spares if needed).
 BTW, I thought I saw a fleeting post by you, asking for IC regarding your Sigma. Was I dreaming? because is nowhere to be found.


----------



## gilency

Spritzer mentionad the following a couple of years ago:
_"The Sigma Pro's are more different then better but the amp has a huge impact on the SR-Sigma. I wasn't much of a fan until I constructed a cable that let me use them on my Blue Hawaii and then I saw the light. The bass got a lot more linear and the sound opened up"_
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...1/index24.html
 Does anybody have a similar cable for sale?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm interesting to see that more than one think that the 202 w/ leather pads has an edge over the 404 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Might end up buying those pads._

 

I have found the basic 404 excellent for many kinds of music, especially classical orchestral but somewhat edgy on much rock music. However my other Lambdas, a Nova (which I suspect is closer to the 202 sound) and a Signature were not much different in that regard. But see this:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...lassic-430113/

 All of the Lambdas I have heard sound better with the back foam removed. 


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ambdas-443060/

 With the 202 you get neither the thinner grade of diaphragm of the 303 and 404 nor the better cable of the 404 and 007. I do not find any basic problem with the 404. If I was choosing at this point, I would get the 404, possibly with the better earpads and take out the foam. It's not hard and can be re-inserted quite easily.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just scored a Sigma! 
 I am really excited since I will have both: a normal bias and a pro. 
 I will compare both and then decide whether they are both keepers or eventually upgrade one of them to a Sigma/404.
 Da*n you guys, this was an unnecessary purchase! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think you will like the low bias Sigma. I was just listening to mine with the SRA12-s( upgraded version with a PS Noise Harvester in back) and it sounds very sweet. As has been noted elsewhere, Hayashi, the old Stax designer was very astute with this design. I would compare it to the early Quad electrostatic speakers, the newer designs are probably better but the old one is still a classic.

 Some years ago I took my last low bias model which which had a broken cable and arc assembly and had it fixed and converted to a Sigma/404. However I immediately went looking for a replacement low bias model and fortunately was able to get one in good shape at a reasonable price. I just felt that I couldn't live without the older model too.

 Overall the Pro and /404 are better but the low bias does some things well and you will probably find some things it will sound better on. It remains a high class phone which is inherently listenable and scales up well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody have a similar cable for sale?_

 

I don't know of anybody making them besides me (and I've just made a handful) so the odds of finding one are slim indeed. That said they aren't hard to make, buy a Koss ESP950 extension cord and some HV wire with two Stax male plugs and a socket.


----------



## gilency

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know of anybody making them besides me (and I've just made a handful) so the odds of finding one are slim indeed. That said they aren't hard to make, buy a Koss ESP950 extension cord and some HV wire with two Stax male plugs and a socket._

 

Thank you Spritzer. if you ever want to sell one of them, please keep me on your list.


----------



## Beefy

I don't quite know that this is the proper thread to put this post, but it seems more appropriate here than my usual haunt of the DIY forum...... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A few months back I picked up some SR-Lambda normal bias and a SRD7-SB. I liked the sound from a simple t-amp but there were a few nagging issues I had with the overall condition of the phones - which is to be expected considering they are 25-30 year old - so I started to do a bit of a refurb on them. What started out small and easy rapidly blew out of control...... I ultimately replaced:
 Cable
 Earpads
 Headpad 
 Mineral wool
 Backing foam
 Drivers!
 Basically, everything except for the baffle, arc assembly and plastic backing was replaced with SR-202 or NOS SR-Lambda parts. Here are some photos......

 Minty fresh SR-Lambda normal bias drivers





 Drivers and new cable installed on the old baffle





 Earpads and headpad installed





 Glamour shot





 From what I ended up spending on the phones originally and the parts for the refurb I could have almost bought a set of 404LE, but I'm not disappointed with the results at all. Its nice to have something so old in such brilliant condition, and now that I have my Exstata completed they sound freaking fantastic.

 With respect to the pads, I cannot make any judgment on the sound you get from the different options...... but I would NOT want to have any pads thinner than the 202 pads. With the original squishy Lambda pads my wingnuts would press up against the metal grill, which was insanely annoying for a circumaural headphone. The thickness and firmness of the new SR-202 pads, combined with soft foam covering the grill, is _much_ more comfortable - my ears only just touch the foam. If I had the thinner 404LE pads, my ears would once again be pressing firmly against the phones, killing the comfort and enjoyment.

 FWIW I really don't think removing any of the backing material is a good idea. Having seen how filthy these phones were on the inside, I believe that the foam and mineral wool are absolutely critical for protecting against dust and other foreign material getting in there...... and IMHO protecting the drivers far outweighs any real (or imaginary) sonic benefits.

 Thanks for looking!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gilency* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spritzer mentionad the following a couple of years ago:
"The Sigma Pro's are more different then better but the amp has a huge impact on the SR-Sigma. I wasn't much of a fan until I constructed a cable that let me use them on my Blue Hawaii and then I saw the light. The bass got a lot more linear and the sound opened up"
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...1/index24.html
 Does anybody have a similar cable for sale?_

 

I think he is talking about the amp more than the cable but there are better cables, the 007/404 cable and the newer 404LE cable. You could get these bought or installed from YasmasInc, the US Stax distributer. One note of acution, they don't reply to phone messages but will probably respond to an e-mail.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the 202 you get neither the thinner grade of diaphragm of the 303 and 404 nor the better cable of the 404 and 007._

 

Since when does the 303/404 driver have a thinner membrane than the 202 driver? I thought they all used 1.35 micron. I can't find any posts to back this up unfortunately. Spritzer, do you know this? I vaguely remember you saying this somewhere.


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Minty fresh SR-Lambda _

 

Very niice!
 I doubt removing the damping material would do any good sonically (probably makes the bass uncontrolled).
 When it is in the bass is rolled off a somewhat but what is there has a rather good impact plus the rest is really nice too, also keep the famous midrange etch in check, the NB Lambda is a very nice phone! If I had a set like that I doubt that I would sell it to anybody else than a local friend - other than keeping it


----------



## padam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since when does the 303/404 driver have a thinner membrane than the 202 driver? I thought they all used 1.35 micron. I can't find any posts to back this up unfortunately. Spritzer, do you know this? I vaguely remember you saying this somewhere._

 

You are right.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since when does the 303/404 driver have a thinner membrane than the 202 driver? I thought they all used 1.35 micron. I can't find any posts to back this up unfortunately. Spritzer, do you know this? I vaguely remember you saying this somewhere._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are right._

 

Here is what it says about the 202 on the Stax site:

 "An electrostatic type of transducer in which a transparent polymer film less than 2 microns thick is driven by the power of static electricity"

Earspeaker System: SRS-2050II (Basic system)

 The 303 and 404 say: "1.35 microns." I conclude that Stax is using a different material on the 202, thicker than the 303 and 404, possibly the 1.5 microns used on the SR003 or possibly even thicker.


----------



## The Monkey

Not a lot there to draw such a conclusion.


----------



## padam

I don't know why I am wasting time on this but anyway, taken from the press release in 1999 when the SRS-2020 System II was introduced alongside the others:
 "Stax has introduced the Lambda System II models and a new version of the SRS-005 system. *ALL* System II headphones feature a thinner diaphragm (1.35u) and several of the System II amplifiers have a faster output stage. Here is a breakdown of the new product line:"


----------



## jaycalgary

So Stax comes out with a new earphone every 10 or 20 years or so?


----------



## Michgelsen

Thank you for the information Padam.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Hi all, I've been very interested in delving into a Stax system, but I've recently purchased a fully loaded WA5 so i can't justify purchasing a WES without even having listened to stats before. Since my 300B amp has speaker outputs, I was wondering how good of a soultion it would be to hook up SR-007 to the SRD-7 adapter to drive them. Is this a pretty enjoyable setup in your opinion or would I completely be wasting my time/money. I feel that if I enjoy this setup enough, I could eventually get a BHSE or WES for the 007s. Also, which would be better, the SRD-7 Pro or the SRD-7 mkII?


----------



## Deadneddz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *monsieurguzel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this a pretty enjoyable setup in your opinion or would I completely be wasting my time/money._

 

The only time the SR-007 would be a waste of money is if the system behind it is no good. Back up the SR-007 with a quality source and provide it with good amplification and it may well be one of the best investments you make. If you're not willing to do that then IMO you shouldn't even bother with it. Now you can go with an adapter, but if you're serious I would start off with the the SRM-717. This will definately give you a good taste of what the SR-007 sounds like. Going the adapter route may give you a sense of better dynamics in comparison to the 717, but this just didn't sound right to my ears. The 717 will provide you with superior bass and it sounds more natural to me. Upgrading to something like a BHSE will give you the best of both worlds.


----------



## monsieurguzel

I feel that I built a very good foundation when I built my current HD-800 rig. I am currently running a Power Plant Premier > Perfectwave DAC > Maxed Woo 5 Amp w/ EML 300B tubes. I hope that this would a good enough foundation for a stax system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 As for the adapter route vs. srm 717, I'd ideally like to use my current amp since I really enjoy the 300B sound and it would be considerably cheaper instead of buying a brand new amp for the stax. I'm just hoping that the setup would do the 007s justice for me to gauge whether stats are for me or not. Maybe 404LEs would be a better choice for adapter route?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deadneddz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The only time the SR-007 would be a waste of money is if the system behind it is no good. Back up the SR-007 with a quality source and provide it with good amplification and it may well be one of the best investments you make. If you're not willing to do that then IMO you shouldn't even bother with it. Now you can go with an adapter, but if you're serious I would start off with the the SRM-717. This will definately give you a good taste of what the SR-007 sounds like. Going the adapter route may give you a sense of better dynamics in comparison to the 717, but this just didn't sound right to my ears. The 717 will provide you with superior bass and it sounds more natural to me. Upgrading to something like a BHSE will give you the best of both worlds._


----------



## padam

It depends more on the amplifier than on the phones. In theory, solid state amps should work best with SRD-7 Pro or Mk2 (they should be close to indentical), the tube amps might be a bit gutless for the job but it depends on a lot of factors so I am sure there are tube amps which are really good for these.

 Yes, the Omega IIs can be enjoyable with an adapter but don't be too surprised if sounds too dark, maybe you can brighten it up with silver cables, or changing various tubes, etc.. The SR-404 LE is more efficient and might have better synergy, hard to tell cause everybody's taste is different.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My 8-watt ZDT actually drives the SRD-7 Pro > SR-007 fairly well, and plaidplatypus gushed about the sound after the July 2009 Colorado meet. With the Sylvania gold pin 5751 or stock Mullard re-issue the sound was not dark at all. The GE 5751 was a little darker though, but still really good with SR-007A/O2 Mk2 and others. I've only compared the WA5 and ZDT with HD800 and K1000, and thought they were fairly equivalent, under meet conditions. So, I think the WA5 could drive the SRD-7 Pro nicely and give an idea of whether it's worth investing in a nicer amp later. To be honest I could likely be happy with just the SRD-7 Pro for O2 for a while, and I have been doing just that in my bedroom rig where my only other choice is my HEV70 until my eXStatA is completed.

 At the meet we also used the ZDT > SRD-7 Pro with SR-404LE, HE60 and Jade, and everyone liked the sound. The dynamics with O2 were good, and better than an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro or SRM-T1 that we used at previous meets, although micro-detail of the SRM-717 was better when I tried Dinan's rig (his was highly modified and rewired though).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a lot there to draw such a conclusion._

 

And not to draw a conclusion that the 202 is 1.35 when the language contrasts with those phones that Stax is prepared to identify as 1.35.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know why I am wasting time on this but anyway, taken from the press release in 1999 when the SRS-2020 System II was introduced alongside the others:
 "Stax has introduced the Lambda System II models and a new version of the SRS-005 system. *ALL* System II headphones feature a thinner diaphragm (1.35u) and several of the System II amplifiers have a faster output stage. Here is a breakdown of the new product line:"_

 


 A press release (from where?) is not as authoritative as the current official site. Stax has plugged the value of thinner diaphragms for years and if the 202 was as thin as you think, it is improbable that they would have only listed it as "less than 2 microns, " especailly knowing that they have another current model at 1.5. 

 I certainly wouldn't buy a 202 thinking I was getting 303 specs with this type of statement from the manufacturer.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I certainly wouldn't buy a 202 thinking I was getting 303 specs with this type of statement from the manufacturer._

 

I think that's one reason for Stax to leave it in the dark: people should think the SR-303 is better and the SR-404 even more.


----------



## spritzer

Stax dropped the "thinner is better" crap once they realized it was just that, crap.


----------



## deadlylover

G'day Mafia

 Sorry to disrupt the flow of the thread, but I'm in need of some help.
 I've recently acquired the 2050a system and it's developed a pretty serious channel imbalance problem. 
 The right driver is very soft and the bass is distorted.
 It was only 3-4 days old when the problem appeared.
 I've tried shorting the pins but it didn't help.

 I guess I'll have to send it back to Japan and have it repaired at my own cost.
 How much does Stax Japan charge for new 202 drivers? (I think the warranty is void since I bought it from Seyo-Shop in Japan and I'm in Australia)
 The Australian Stax repair center wants ~$500!, thats pretty much a new system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You guys got any tricks up your sleeves before I send it off?

 Cheers


----------



## paaj

send it back to the shop where you bought it, they should cover warranty.


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deadlylover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_G'day Mafia

 Sorry to disrupt the flow of the thread, but I'm in need of some help.
 I've recently acquired the 2050a system and it's developed a pretty serious channel imbalance problem. 
 The right driver is very soft and the bass is distorted.
 It was only 3-4 days old when the problem appeared.
 I've tried shorting the pins but it didn't help.

 I guess I'll have to send it back to Japan and have it repaired at my own cost.
 How much does Stax Japan charge for new 202 drivers? (I think the warranty is void since I bought it from Seyo-Shop in Japan and I'm in Australia)
 The Australian Stax repair center wants ~$500!, thats pretty much a new system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You guys got any tricks up your sleeves before I send it off?

 Cheers_

 

Does the warranty card say its only covered for use in Japan? My warranty card for the SR-404LE says its only valid if the headphones are used in North America. 

 I notice you're in Sydney so the stax repair place should be Classic Audio. I dont know how much the drivers cost but Ross seems to be a nice guy.


----------



## anetode

Question for the Stax gurus:

 Would the 727's RCA through outs work when the input is via balanced XLR?

 & extra abstruse bonus question: what's the fixed gain on the 727s? (when the internal volume control is switched off)

 Thanks in advance


----------



## deadlylover

@ paaj & jjinh

 Thanks for the replies.
 I guess I'll just send it back to Japan. Seyo-shop said they'll take care of everything.
 Even though the system was crippled, I enjoyed every second of it (needed ambitious channel balance settings and super low volume to make it listenable).

 Coming from AT's AD700 and AD900's, I felt the upgrade was huge.
 Having the sounds 'just appear from nowhere' was my favourite thing about the 202's, you guys sure weren't joking when you described it as 'effortless'.

 Anyway, I'll be back looking for an upgrade eventually, perhaps I should go straight for the O2's.
 See you then, cheers.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *anetode* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question for the Stax gurus:

 Would the 727's RCA through outs work when the input is via balanced XLR?

 & extra abstruse bonus question: what's the fixed gain on the 727s? (when the internal volume control is switched off)

 Thanks in advance_

 

1. Yes, as far as I know one of the two signal pins of the XLR input is connected to the signal parts of the RCA inputs/loop outputs. That's also the reason why you can't hook up two active sources to the amp at the same time. It could be that you get an inverted signal on the RCA loop out but that's not really a problem. (Depends on the XLR pin configuration.)

 2. When the volume control is off, it's bypassed, so there is no attenuation. According to the Stax site gain would thus be 54dB.


----------



## brat

Can anyone explain me why the power conditioner (see in my signature) changes so much the FR of my amp??
 There's a noticeable bass decrease and a hump in the upper mids which makes my system bass shy with 90% of the music AND puts an emphasys on all "metal" instruments and sounds. There's a certain benefit of power conditioning (more focused sounds, better instrument separation, textured bass, etc.) but this FR change bothers me. I don't like it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm sure it's the amp because there's no such a problem when I leave the CDP only plugged in the conditioner.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone explain me why the power conditioner (see in my signature) changes so much the FR of my amp??
 There's a noticeable bass decrease and a hump in the upper mids which makes my system bass shy with 90% of the music AND puts an emphasys on all "metal" instruments and sounds. There's a certain benefit of power conditioning (more focused sounds, better instrument separation, textured bass, etc.) but this FR change bothers me. I don't like it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm sure it's the amp because there's no such a problem when I leave the CDP only plugged in the conditioner._

 

I don't know about your power conditioner specifically but my limited experience of such things is that as well as "conditioning" they can also limit the power. Even a couple of volts or milliamps or whatever is reduced could be evident with a power amp, less so with components that don't need much power. I am wary even about ferrite clamps around power cables.


----------



## DyBre

guys, few questions to ask before i'm gonna buy SRM-T1S (100v japan version). is there any guides on how to convert them into 220v? or should i use them with a transformer? would it affect the sound quality?

 thanks in advance


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know about your power conditioner specifically but my limited experience of such things is that as well as "conditioning" they can also limit the power. Even a couple of volts or milliamps or whatever is reduced could be evident with a power amp, less so with components that don't need much power. I am wary even about ferrite clamps around power cables._

 

Trying to use my SRM-727II with voltage transformer (it was made for 117V originally) I've noticed that the lack of power causes loss of control - boomy and dominant bass, insufficient highs, muddy and unfocused sound, the opposite effect of what I hear now (so I had to change the internal power supply for 240V).


----------



## DyBre

is there any ways of modding the power supply of SRM-t1s? any helps on the guides would be much appreciated.







 Edit:
 just found out some guides on this page:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s.../index692.html

 could this method apply in SRM-t1S as well?


----------



## paaj

changing voltage should be fairly easy. there are a few different systems so if you provide a picture of the inside of the amp you can get a useful answer.


----------



## spritzer

95% of all T1 amps (T1S and T1W too) have a switch to change the voltage hidden behind the bottom panel. Just pull out the plug and insert it with the arrow pointing at 240V.


----------



## DyBre

i have got to ask him to check the inner part of the amp.

 if there isnt, could your method as shown in page 390 be applied in the amp?

 thanks for helping me out mate.


----------



## KrypticMind

Is it bad for the 'phones or amps if you plug or unplug the 'phones from the amp when it's on?


----------



## anetode

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Yes, as far as I know one of the two signal pins of the XLR input is connected to the signal parts of the RCA inputs/loop outputs. That's also the reason why you can't hook up two active sources to the amp at the same time. It could be that you get an inverted signal on the RCA loop out but that's not really a problem. (Depends on the XLR pin configuration.)

 2. When the volume control is off, it's bypassed, so there is no attenuation. According to the Stax site gain would thus be 54dB._

 

Cool!


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DyBre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i have got to ask him to check the inner part of the amp.

 if there isnt, could your method as shown in page 390 be applied in the amp?

 thanks for helping me out mate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Almost all of the amps can be rewired manually so yes.


----------



## pyramid6

Can the other Stax amps be easily be rewired or have a switch? Like the SRM-006tA?


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pyramid6* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can the other Stax amps be easily be rewired or have a switch? Like the SRM-006tA?_

 

Yes, didnt you see the post above yours?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Almost all of the amps can be rewired manually so yes._


----------



## Cya|\|

What are the amp possibilities for the sr-303 headphones? I don't want tube amps. 
 Are there any "cheap" class d amps for the stax? The 323ii is too expensive, and i'm afraid the quality wouldn't be high enough.


----------



## plaidplatypus

There is an affordable SRM-313 in the FS section right now.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...-315-a-483754/

 A SRD-7Pro adapter might cost you that much by itself.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pyramid6* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can the other Stax amps be easily be rewired or have a switch? Like the SRM-006tA?_

 

The newer amps can be tricky as Stax often cut the 117V windings which means they can not be changed from 100V without some very creative soldering and some luck.


----------



## jaycalgary

I just got Lambda Signatures but somewhat damaged. The grill was poked in on one spot. The dust cover membrane has a dent and will wave in that area. Does anyone have experience with electrostatics to know what damage is bad and what is really bad for the sound. It was poked in pretty good but I don't think it reached the stator if it dented that would sound be unlistenable? I am going to go find something like a leather cleaner to clean the pads. The sound can change a whole lot just from head position with these headphones. If there is a hole is the dust cover should it be easy to notice listening to them?


----------



## jjinh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just got Lambda Signatures but somewhat damaged. The grill was poked in on one spot. The dust cover membrane has a dent and will wave in that area. Does anyone have experience with electrostatics to know what damage is bad and what is really bad for the sound. It was poked in pretty good but I don't think it reached the stator if it dented that would sound be unlistenable? I am going to go find something like a leather cleaner to clean the pads. The sound can change a whole lot just from head position with these headphones. If there is a hole is the dust cover should it be easy to notice listening to them?_

 

Dont you already have a thread on this?


----------



## jaycalgary

Ya and I just found most of what I am looking for in old treads sorry was just looking for a few more answers. This was a pretty good thread http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/sta...alance-237468/


----------



## Currawong

If you don't hear a problem, I wouldn't worry about it. My SR-5NBs have rather messed-up membranes from getting stuck to the surrounding housing, but they don't sound at all bad.


----------



## Beefy

I get the impression that holes in the diaphragm are fairly common...... how would it happen in day to day usage? Is the pressure of the Stax fart enough to perforate it?


----------



## gilency

I got my normal bias Sigma today. When compared with the Sigma Pro using an SRD7 Mk2 for both, there is a noticeable difference, with the Pro having a deeper and richer sound. 
 The normal bias has a thiner although very enjoyable sound. I do hear booming bass (normal bias) at around the 60 Hz, although the overall sound is a little more natural than the Pro. I like them both though. Does anybody have a normal bias extension cable they would like to sell?


----------



## jaycalgary

Not sure if holes in diaphragm are common? The diaphragm is not visible. Maybe you mean the dust cover? It is like saran wrap but must be actually very tough it is visible under the grill. The Lambda Signature has one on the back also that is visible with no protection. The Lambda Pro has a perforated cheese cloth material on the back but must have that dust cover membrane under it. I have heard a lot of odd noises with the Stax I have. Sometimes just a tiny tap on side of the headphone will hear a crinkle or the sound will go flat. I blew in the back of the Lambda pros before and then gave them a tap sound stopped all together. One more tap it was back to normal. I think it may take some good effort to damage these headphones. There is another noise thats I think what they call the Stax "fart" its a strange sound of buzz. I left my Lambda Sig plugged in for a good few hours now that I know about the diaphragm being charged. I cant tell a difference in balance between right and left now.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get the impression that holes in the diaphragm are fairly common...... how would it happen in day to day usage? Is the pressure of the Stax fart enough to perforate it?_

 

Some of the older models like the SRXIII and some old electrostatic speakers like the old B&W tend to be holey but it my understanding that with the Sigmas Stax started protecting the diaphragms. I believe all it takes is a plastic spacer on the stator to keep the diaphragm from getting too close to the stator and arcing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the pressure of the Stax fart enough to perforate it?_

 

Enough to damage the mylar? Not a chance in hell as it's tight as a drum and will hold that tension for decades. Only arcing will burn holes in it which is usually caused by SRD units being fed way too much voltage.


----------



## jaycalgary

If I take a heat gun to the front of Lambda dust cover for a second or so do you think it will take the wrinkles out? Or will destroy them? I tried soldering iron but was not hot enough


----------



## spritzer

The wrinkles are supposed to be there so you will only destroy it since it's PVC, not mylar.


----------



## jaycalgary

Its the plastic dust cover membrane. It was damaged when shipped to me. The grill was poked in so I pulled that back to shape but the plastic membrane is streched and can see it wave with bass. That film will not shrink with heat?


----------



## momomo6789

does the headphone work if it does LEAVE IT ALONE ! or you will break it at this rate


----------



## jaycalgary

It does work its fairly wavy if i blow lightly on it. It works at least 90% of the other side. Sometimes I think there is an imbalance slightly more volume and bass on the good side. I see the good side has a small amount of winkle but nothing like the bad side. Only would try and get it closer to what it should be but if its not going to work and just burn holes then its not going to work. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## spritzer

If there isn't a hole in the film then leave it well alone. The drivers are toast of you do damage it as removing the metal grill could cause the driver to disintegrate completely.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It does work its fairly wavy if i blow lightly on it. It works at least 90% of the other side. Sometimes I think there is an imbalance slightly more volume and bass on the good side. I see the good side has a small amount of winkle but nothing like the bad side. Only would try and get it closer to what it should be but if its not going to work and just burn holes then its not going to work. Thanks for the advice._

 

Put a mono CD on and adjust the balance control until the image is definitively in the centre, then leave it alone, matey. Any more fiddling will all end in tears.


----------



## Duckman

Hello, I've recently become the proud owner of an O2Mk1, but am ampless. Currently using a borrowed KGSS, but am looking out for something a little less pricey. What is the mail on the 717? Competitive with the KGSS?

 Cheers!


----------



## DaveBSC

The general consensus seems to be that the 717 is much better than the current 727-II, but its not as good as the KGSS. I haven't checked recently, but its not an easy to find amp. I'd suggest saving up and going with the KGSS, or maybe a Woo GES if you're ok with tubes.


----------



## Cya|\|

Sorry if it's a noob question, but are all balanced heapdhones amp compatible with the stax?
 Because in the srm-727ii description ( Driver unit for Earspeaker : SRM-727II ) it says so: The electrostatic method is a playback method which involves the installation of drive electrodes on either side of a high-polymer film diaphragm with a thickness of only a few microns into each of which a plus signal and a minus signal are fed. This means that XLR connection with a pure balance output CD player makes it possible to listen to the original sound permitted by the balance system without a conversion circuit.

 If i understood correctly (big chance i'm wrong ^^) i could simply buy a relatively cheap 2 channel professional soundcard (2 channels are cheap) and use the balanced outputs, thus spending little money.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cya|\|* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if it's a noob question, but are all balanced heapdhones amp compatible with the stax?_

 

No, absolutely not. The amping requirements are very, very different.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The general consensus seems to be that the 717 is much better than the current 727-II, but its not as good as the KGSS. I haven't checked recently, but its not an easy to find amp. I'd suggest saving up and going with the KGSS, or maybe a Woo GES if you're ok with tubes._

 

Agree with most of the above, but the Woo GES is a less than ideal solution for the O2. It just doesn't have enough balls. It's great for the other staxen, though.


----------



## forbigger

is it correct that kgss was the amp of choice before BHSE comes up? Short of BH of course due to various problems with its PSU


----------



## spritzer

You can say the KGSS was top dog back then but after market amps weren't as common as they are right now so it wouldn't be a direct comparison. It also has nothing to do with the PSU as most of the time both amps use the same design.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agree with most of the above, but the Woo GES is a less than ideal solution for the O2. It just doesn't have enough balls. It's great for the other staxen, though._

 

Agreed. The GES sounds decent with the O2 Mk1 or Mk2 if you use a DAC with good synergy and just the right tubes like Telefunken smooth plates (12BZ7 from Woo sound too dark); but you can't play the O2 Mk1/2 loud enough to feel the impact before the amp starts to clip. And, while the GES soundstage is bigger than the Senn HEV70 amp and similar to the SRM-T1, it sounds narrower and less spacious than the SRM-717, eXStatA, WES, KGBH SE, and A-10 (haven't heard the KGSS). 

 The GES is a nice match for the SR-003, SR-Lamba, SR-Lambda Pro, SR-Lambda Signature, SR-404LE, ESP-950, Jade and HE60, but the SR-Sigma Pro and O2 Mk1/2 needed more power than it can offer.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The GES is a nice match for the SR-003, SR-Lamba, SR-Lambda Pro, SR-Lambda Signature, SR-404LE, ESP-950, Jade and HE60, but the SR-Sigma Pro and O2 Mk1/2 needed more power than it can offer._

 

That's count for 4070 too ?
 Thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's count for 4070 too ?
 Thanks_

 

Never tried a 4070, so I don't know. Sorry.


----------



## jaycalgary

Is it better to use a plug with a ground? I am using SRM-1/MK-2 It has connection for a 3 prong plug but only uses 2 prong at the wall. I have a 3 prong but figured I would ask before I tried it. Will it make any difference? I had 3 prong on my laptop and had to cut the ground off that fixed that specific problem. Any advice how to dampen the treble with the Lambda Sig on SRM-1/MK-2? I understand other amps would help but any alternative in the mean time? The foam is gone maybe try some kind of foam from fabric store or somewhere that would just tone the treble down a little bit?


----------



## dreamwhisper

Ok, so wait one minute, can the SRM-717 power 2 Omega2's?


----------



## spritzer

No, not really.


----------



## graben

Does anyone listen to their Stax and speakers at the same time? I got an xlr cable so I connected my SRM-T1S to the Omega II Mk1 and the rca to my speakers. It sounded very nice the speakers added a huge soundstage and I could feel the bass as well as hear it.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The general consensus seems to be that the 717 is much better than the current 727-II, but its not as good as the KGSS. I haven't checked recently, but its not an easy to find amp. I'd suggest saving up and going with the KGSS, or maybe a Woo GES if you're ok with tubes._

 

Although as far as I know very few people have actually heard both the 717 and the 727, so your statement is a bit exaggerated. Furthermore, I recall a post by Kevin Gilmore saying that the 717 and 727 are quite similar, circuit wise. I have also read an impression somewhere by someone (can't find it anymore) saying that he preferred the 717 to the KGSS. I do agree however that 'the general consensus' seems to be that the KGSS is preferred.


----------



## brat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michgelsen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I recall a post by Kevin Gilmore saying that the 717 and 727 are quite similar, circuit wise..._

 

Can you remember which forum/thread?

 Thanks!


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duncan_McCloud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's count for 4070 too ?
 Thanks_

 

IMO The GES drives the 4070's very, very well. Thus the reason I am reaching much more to them than the 007's. 
 I must say that Im in love with the sound of these monitors that stax calls 4070.


----------



## Duncan_McCloud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GuyDebord* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO The GES drives the 4070's very, very well. Thus the reason I am reaching much more to them than the 007's. 
 I must say that Im in love with the sound of these monitors that stax calls 4070._

 

Oh thank you! I have't done any comparison with the O2, but i think that the 4070 are amazing even with a transformer! I am just waiting for a EU offer about GES\KGSS\717\727\007t in the right time for my wallet. But i would likea an amplifier which will be able to drive in a decent way an O2 (Let's say 8/10 with the 4070 but at least 7/10 with the O2)


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *graben* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone listen to their Stax and speakers at the same time? I got an xlr cable so I connected my SRM-T1S to the Omega II Mk1 and the rca to my speakers. It sounded very nice the speakers added a huge soundstage and I could feel the bass as well as hear it._

 

I have done that several times with my Quad monitors and Lambdas. It was intimate, spacious sounding, and overall very enjoyable. One of the main reasons I never want to get rid of my Lambda, even with the O2 and exStata.


----------



## graben

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have done that several times with my Quad monitors and Lambdas. It was intimate, spacious sounding, and overall very enjoyable. One of the main reasons I never want to get rid of my Lambda, even with the O2 and exStata._

 

Couldn't you do it with O2 as well? Or is that in another location?


----------



## jaycalgary

Recap Stax srm-1/Mk-2? I was taking a look under the hood blowing out some dust. The srm-1/Mk-2 only has 4 electrolytic caps, 3 100uf 400v and 1 470uf 35v. Would there be a noticeable improvement changing them to Black gates? The other parts I am guessing would be good to change are the diodes in the psu and bias? There are for little ones and 2 big ones (3 big ones on my lower serial C series). Is there a thread on mods on these?


----------



## Robot Metal

I bought a SRM-1 off eBay. Fine amp and really had me impressed, but it's lacking in power. I'm going to copy AudioCats' mods. (sans adding the pro bias and power cord adapter) Is this optimal? I could also use some help finding what he used for the low voltage supply caps.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...o-bias-422712/


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you remember which forum/thread?

 Thanks!_

 

I googled it and it appears to be in a thread you started, though not in this forum.

 Here's the post:
  Quote:


 The 727 is supposed to be a similar design to the 717 with the output stage dissipating about 3 times the power, therefore a more extended high frequency and low frequency response. If it really sounds much worse, there certainly could be a number of reasons, but i would be surprised if on a casual basis anyone could tell the difference between the two. Unless stax made some kind of horrible mistake.


----------



## manaox2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *graben* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Couldn't you do it with O2 as well? Or is that in another location?_

 

I could, but the Lambda is more forward sounding and more open which works well with the speakers. It just seems to work better. I dunno if this makes sense, but also when I listen to the O2, I do more focused listening and the speakers become more distracting.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Robot Metal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought a SRM-1 off eBay. Fine amp and really had me impressed, but it's lacking in power. I'm going to copy AudioCats' mods. (sans adding the pro bias and power cord adapter) Is this optimal? I could also use some help finding what he used for the low voltage supply caps.

 ]_

 


 Lacking power? which phones are you using?

 for low voltage caps, use blackGates if you already have them. Otherwise just Nichicon Muse will be fine. The improvement there is not huge.

 The high voltage reservoir cap upgrade, on the other hand, makes noticeable improvment. 

 If you are just driving Lambda's, try some .47uf Auri for output. The 1uf SIO I used is a bit over-kill.

 !! Do not touch the copper heat sink when the amp is on, or you will get zapped by 660V. It will kill.


 By the way that amp is no longer for sale, at least for right now (I sold my T1W so the modded SRM1 is now my reference amp).


----------



## AudioCats

Does anybody know of a source of O2 drivers? preferably from within the US?


----------



## Robot Metal

Audiocats: Thanks for the advice. Yes, I am using an SR-Lambda. My SRM-1 gets distorted nearing the max volume, especially with metal, but I guess that's to be expected from a used, unrestored amp from the 70's.

 I need the 600V .47uf for the Auricaps, right? What do I need for the Nichion Muse?


----------



## n3rdling

What how loud are you listening? 140 dB?


----------



## jaycalgary

Anyone know what earpad replacement would be best for the Lambda Signature? Should the Lambda Sig feel about the same as Lambda Pro? The ones on the Pro have more cushion and just feel nicer. Ears sometimes feel like they are touching the grill with the Sigs. Just pulling them away from the ear and the bass increases quite a bit. I don't think the nice 404LE would be a good replacement for Lambda Sigs. I have still been trying everything I can to figure out why I get more bass impact from the right side than the left. The left drivers dust cover membrane is stretched from damage but does not have a hole in it. Is a possible reason why there would be less bass impact on that side or maybe a nice new set of thicker pads will sole the problem? Its really not a fun problem to have trying to enjoy music and feeling there is a problem. Not sure why Stax wont make a modern replacement for either or these earphones.

 Edit- It could be water in the middle ear from the shower thats causing me to feel like there is more bass because I feel the bass heavier on the right side with Lambda pro's also. I know water can get in my middle. Ear wax could be another problem but probably not. I been deaf a couple times for about a week its deafenatly a spooky experience especially the part waiting in emergency room for hours and hours and can't even hear them call. Can't complain because Amoxicillin fixes the problem in a few days but I don't think the problem would just go away without it. I already heard a few horror stories about doctors fixing eardrums that I am not sure if it would be a good idea.


----------



## Robot Metal

n3rdling: It's not volume I'm worried about, I'm satisfied with that. On some instruments, like electric guitars, there's distortion on the right channel unless it's really quiet. It's like a small amount of static right after or something. (Hard to describe.)


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Robot Metal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_n3rdling: It's not volume I'm worried about, I'm satisfied with that. On some instruments, like electric guitars, there's distortion on the right channel unless it's really quiet. It's like a small amount of static right after or something. (Hard to describe.)_

 

maybe it is the phone?

 the high voltage rail is 650-660V, so the "official" advice is use something rated for 700V, or higher. 

 There are 1500V Auri's, I don't know if they can fit inside the case though...

 Or use 800v Mundorf supreme.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Robot Metal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought a SRM-1 off eBay. Fine amp and really had me impressed, but it's lacking in power. I'm going to copy AudioCats' mods. (sans adding the pro bias and power cord adapter) Is this optimal? I could also use some help finding what he used for the low voltage supply caps.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...o-bias-422712/_

 

I assume you are running low bias phones since that is all the SRM-1 was designed for. You will probably not be happy with the slam of these. Stax went to the higher bias so as to get more dynamics and bass. If by some change you are actually running a high bias (5-pin) phone with this amp, that would also explain the lack of power.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anybody know of a source of O2 drivers? preferably from within the US?_

 

They are almost impossible to get and I don't know of any source that would be willing to sell them.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know what earpad replacement would be best for the Lambda Signature? Should the Lambda Sig feel about the same as Lambda Pro? The ones on the Pro have more cushion and just feel nicer. Ears sometimes feel like they are touching the grill with the Sigs. Just pulling them away from the ear and the bass increases quite a bit. I don't think the nice 404LE would be a good replacement for Lambda Sigs. I have still been trying everything I can to figure out why I get more bass impact from the right side than the left. The left drivers dust cover membrane is stretched from damage but does not have a hole in it. Is a possible reason why there would be less bass impact on that side or maybe a nice new set of thicker pads will sole the problem? Its really not a fun problem to have trying to enjoy music and feeling there is a problem. Not sure why Stax wont make a modern replacement for either or these earphones.

 Edit- It could be water in the middle ear from the shower thats causing me to feel like there is more bass because I feel the bass heavier on the right side with Lambda pro's also. I know water can get in my middle. Ear wax could be another problem but probably not. I been deaf a couple times for about a week its deafenatly a spooky experience especially the part waiting in emergency room for hours and hours and can't even hear them call. Can't complain because Amoxicillin fixes the problem in a few days but I don't think the problem would just go away without it. I already heard a few horror stories about doctors fixing eardrums that I am not sure if it would be a good idea._

 

Jay - this is easy to check - put the headphones on backwards. If the bass impact switches sides, it's due to the phones. If not, it's your ears.
 I do my own ear syringing and wax sitting against the ear drum is pretty high on the list for one ear reduced hearing. Eustachian tube blockages often show up as reduced ability to "pop" your ears when yawning.


----------



## Robot Metal

I should get four of these, right? Mundorf 0.47 mfd Supreme Caps from Madisound

 What V/uF capacitors should I get for the Nichicon Muse?


----------



## Robot Metal

I should get four of these, right? Mundorf 0.47 mfd Supreme Caps from Madisound

 What V/uF caps should I get for the Nichicon Muse?

 Edit: I tested it with my SRD-7/SB to make sure it wasn't the headphones themselves.


----------



## jaycalgary

Yes the bass imbalance does switch if I shift when the earphone is switched sides. I did some more experimenting today. I downloaded test tones and used the 30hz and 40hz tones and I found some some differences with the 3 USB ports on my laptop. There was a point when I increased the volume the right side would start to distort into a motorboat kind of sound. The difference to make both sides to distort at the same time was 12 so the right side is 88 and the left side is 100. So maybe it is just the laptops fault.


----------



## padam

What is the bias voltage of an SRA-3S, the earlier 200V or 230V? In the first case, is it worth raising it if used with the later normal bias phones? Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *padam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the bias voltage of an SRA-3S, the earlier 200V or 230V? In the first case, is it worth raising it if used with the later normal bias phones? Thanks._

 

The bias isn't fixed so who knows what it actually is (changes with the line voltage) but the change is small enough for you not to notice.


----------



## cesco

hi!

 My lovely wife dropped my omega II on the floor this morning ...

 When I got home from work I noticed complete signal loss on one channel.
 After dinner I tried again and now there is a signal loss of about 20 %. No apparent difference in quality or noise.

 What happened? Should I wait before shipping it for repair?. May be a few days and lots of love will help?


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Robot Metal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should get four of these, right? Mundorf 0.47 mfd Supreme Caps from Madisound

 What V/uF caps should I get for the Nichicon Muse?

 Edit: I tested it with my SRD-7/SB to make sure it wasn't the headphones themselves._

 

that supreme will work. when installed, the "M" (outer foil) end should be mounted toward the transistors (high voltage). 

 For any cap upgrade, use something with the same (or higher) voltage rating, and higher uf.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are almost impossible to get and I don't know of any source that would be willing to sell them._


----------



## hentai

I am still amazed by what my main filter has done to my stax setup. Those who are still using cheap power distributors should change to a good audio grade ones. Its definately not a placebo effect I swear.


----------



## Bullseye

Yeah right! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hentai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still amazed by what my main filter has done to my stax setup. Those who are still using cheap power distributors should change to a good audio grade ones. *Its definately not a placebo effect I swear.*



_


----------



## anetode

Is there an appreciable difference in detail between tube amps like the T1 or GES and the big boy, the WES? (I presume that the KGBH is closer to solid-state options in its presentation) Specifically I'm looking for something that has a warm hint in the bass and slightly rolled of highs, but not so much as to obscure any musical content.


----------



## posty_205

Hi, Have just bought a 3050 stax system and am having a problem with it as if i turn my head to the left i get what is like a staic click in left channel, reminds me of vynal day`s. This is my first step back into electrostats after owning a pair of jecklin floats some years ago. any help would be appreciated. Thanks Brian


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *anetode* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there an appreciable difference in detail between tube amps like the T1 or GES and the big boy, the WES?_

 

Yes, the difference is significant, especially with the O2.


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *posty_205* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, Have just bought a 3050 stax system and am having a problem with it as if i turn my head to the left i get what is like a staic click in left channel, reminds me of vynal day`s. This is my first step back into electrostats after owning a pair of jecklin floats some years ago. any help would be appreciated. Thanks Brian_

 

Fart!


----------



## wasp131

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beefy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fart!_

 

????? Wutt!

 Meh..???


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wasp131* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_????? Wutt!

 Meh..??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Let me Google that for you......


----------



## momomo6789

lol thats funny


----------



## wasp131

aaaahh! ,enlightenment,a wonderful thing. thx


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *anetode* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there an appreciable difference in detail between tube amps like the T1 or GES and the big boy, the WES? (I presume that the KGBH is closer to solid-state options in its presentation) Specifically I'm looking for something that has a warm hint in the bass and slightly rolled of highs, but not so much as to obscure any musical content._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the difference is significant, especially with the O2._

 

The T1 and GES sound very similar to each other, and the sound is nice, but the WES is in another league. Not only does the WES present a bigger deeper wider soundstage, but the power output and bass impact is greater as well. 

 As far as your desire for "a warm hint in the bass and slightly rolled of highs", any of these would fit your requirements.


----------



## anetode

Thanks. The bass on the O2MK1 through the 727 is precisely what I've gone through a baker's dozen of dynamics trying to find. The 404LE's a prissy set of phones and gonna need some encouragement in the low end and a muzzle for the highs to compete.

 Tube amps sound like a good solution for the 404LE, plus I want to see exactly how much more slam can be coaxed out of the O2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Only factor to watch out for is keeping the tube amp's "euphonic" distortion from ruining the stats' resolution.


----------



## Robot Metal

Where can I get a replacement SR-202/303/404 arch/headband? I only see it on audiocubes2, but it's very expensive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Google also told me yamasinc, but it seems I have to email them.


----------



## GuyDebord

joynetcafe @ ebay

 If what you need is not listed, just email him. Just remember that Stax replacements are expensive anyway....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

joynetcafe @ eBay above has been a good seller to me, no problem with orders.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know what earpad replacement would be best for the Lambda Signature? Should the Lambda Sig feel about the same as Lambda Pro? The ones on the Pro have more cushion and just feel nicer. Ears sometimes feel like they are touching the grill with the Sigs. Just pulling them away from the ear and the bass increases quite a bit. I don't think the nice 404LE would be a good replacement for Lambda Sigs._

 

All the old Lambdas have the same type earpads, so yes, the Sig should feel like the Pro.

 The Signature has a different sound signature than the 404LE. The 404LE doesn't have what the Sig has going on with the treble. Some people consider that a major compliment for the 404LE. I think the 404LE is a bit polite in the highs compared to some other Lambdas.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *plaidplatypus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All the old Lambdas have the same type earpads, so yes, the Sig should feel like the Pro.

 The Signature has a different sound signature than the 404LE. The 404LE doesn't have what the Sig has going on with the treble. Some people consider that a major compliment for the 404LE. I think the 404LE is a bit polite in the highs compared to some other Lambdas._

 

I agree, but I would go as far as to say the 404LE is VERY polite in the highs. I'd say the 404LE highs were closer to the O2 Mk2 or HD600 than another Lambda (or at least with my GES amp, as I didn't have the WES till after I sold the LE). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I haven't heard the SR-202/303/404 yet, so I can't compare to those. I really would like to hear an SR-202 on my WES, since I have read it's also polite in the highs. Have you compared a 202 to the SR-Lambda normal bias or the 404LE?


----------



## jaycalgary

"I don't think the nice 404LE would be a good replacement for Lambda Sigs."

 Opps that was meant to reference the 404LE's nice lambskin pads because of
 how thin they are they would not be a good replacement for Lambda Sigs bass 
 would be less.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hentai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still amazed by what my main filter has done to my stax setup. Those who are still using cheap power distributors should change to a good audio grade ones. Its definately not a placebo effect I swear. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

In what ways is it better now?


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree, but I would go as far as to say the 404LE is VERY polite in the highs. I'd say the 404LE highs were closer to the O2 Mk2 or HD600 than another Lambda (or at least with my GES amp, as I didn't have the WES till after I sold the LE). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I haven't heard the SR-202/303/404 yet, so I can't compare to those. I really would like to hear an SR-202 on my WES, since I have read it's also polite in the highs. Have you compared a 202 to the SR-Lambda normal bias or the 404LE?_

 

I remember donunus saying the same thing about his 202. He even found the treble recessed compared to his HD600 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it's a common misunderstanding about stats, to me they sound nowhere near as agressive as say DT880.


----------



## Currawong

IIRC the 202s had quite a rolled-off treble, but I don't feel my 404LEs do at all, nor my LNS, nothing like the O2s when driven from a Stax amp. However, the 404LE have somewhat forward mids, so it might be easy to get this impression.


----------



## Henerenry

Hey guys, I'm looking to get into stax, I had originally planned to purchase a pair of 404le's as a starting point, but I've read testimony that states that the O2s are well worth saving that bit extra for.

 Has anyone who has heard both chimed in?

 Also for those that have the 404le's how good are that at resolving detail compared to the O2s or even the hd800.


----------



## pyramid6

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Henerenry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, I'm looking to get into stax, I had originally planned to purchase a pair of 404le's as a starting point, but I've read testimony that states that the O2s are well worth saving that bit extra for.

 Has anyone who has heard both chimed in?

 Also for those that have the 404le's how good are that at resolving detail compared to the O2s or even the hd800._

 

I wouldn't call it a bit extra, Woo Audio - STAX SR-007MK2 Electrostatic Earspearkers, vs Woo Audio - STAX SR-404 Signature Open-Back Electrostatic Earspearkers, granted the LE is a little more, but it's still like 3 times the price. 
 Is it really that much better?

 I would be more curious if the 404/404le is better than the 202.
 Should you get a 202 then get a O2, or is a 404 good enough? 

 Or just a good idea of how they all sound.


----------



## momomo6789

i am so happy i finally took the plunge into stax so expensive but a good payoff imo o2s are very nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 btw the farts are weird the first time i heard it lol


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The 404LE is a great headphone, but in side by side comparisons my O2 Mk1 were better. The 404LE would not get as much ear time as my O2 Mk1, so I had to let them go to raise funds for my WES amp.


----------



## KrypticMind

Anyone need an imbalanced pair of Lambda Sigs?

 I recently got a pair of Lambda Sigs, and while they sound great, they have some channel imbalance issues. With a Stax amp, I'm able to compensate the channel imbalance, but because I switch phones so often, it's a bit of a hassle so I'm gonna let 'em go for a price to fund a DAC, maybe a little more than half the market value?

 You can either do what I did and use a Stax amp to compensate for the imbalance, or if you have another imbalanced Lambda Sig, take two of the good drivers and put them together.


----------



## jaycalgary

Hi I am interested in you Lambda Sigs. I have a pair and sounds like your pair would fix my problem. Please message me a price.


----------



## ManBeard

Whats the consensus on the SRM-600? How does it compare to other Stax amps? I realize it was most likely designed to pair with the 404LE but how well would it drive the O2? Does anyone have any listening experience with this combo?


----------



## frenshprince

Hello there,

 I'm really interested to get in the Stax family, but still hesitate about the good System.
 Since I'm kinda Basshead (but not only), I can forget any open can's if I want the slam impact in low-end.

 So Im thinking about the 4070.
 Do you think the 727 unit would be a good match ?

 Thanks


----------



## n3rdling

o2


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote: 





frenshprince said:


> Hello there,
> 
> I'm really interested to get in the Stax family, but still hesitate about the good System.
> Since I'm kinda Basshead (but not only), I can forget any open can's if I want the slam impact in low-end.
> ...


 
   
  The 4070 renders bass with perfect quality, body and precision but it will never put more bass than what a recording has, they are monitors, so they are there to reveal the music in the medium and NOT to put or add colors to it. So in this regard Im not sure if I would consider them suitable for a "basshead." Actually I dont think any STAX would be fitted to a "basshead." Saying this, I am convinced that both the 4070 and the O2 have the best bass render I know of from ANY headphone.
   
  For Amp, my Woo Audio GES Maxed does a great job with the 4070's. Before I got it I tried the available STAX amps including the 727.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





manbeard said:


> Whats the consensus on the SRM-600? How does it compare to other Stax amps? I realize it was most likely designed to pair with the 404LE but how well would it drive the O2? Does anyone have any listening experience with this combo?


 

 We were on holidays in Japan for past fews which gave me the opportunity to visit to a famous audio store in Tokyo (dynamic-audio 5555) which carries a large selection of headphone gear among other ultra expensive audiophile equipment. They have dedicated a room for listening to high end headphones, among which the stax offerings, and top of the line of all manufacturers. The source is of very good quality: Luxman D-06 and the dynamics amps also (Luxman p1u, phonitor).
   
  My first visit was to compare Beyerdynamic T-1 to my Sennheiser HD800, which turned in favor of my current headphones on that particular rig so my wallet was happy on that day. Then, for an unknown reason, I went back some time later with my own HD800 (recabled and modded with foam to kill spurious reflections in the earcup) and made the mistake to also listen to Stax Omega 2 (mkII model) fed by the tops amps of the range (SRM-007t mkII and SRM-727 mkII) connected to the same Luxman CD/SACD player.
   
  From there, it went downhill for my wallet. I am not sure if its the new series that fit my taste or the excellent source but this time, I got mightily impressed with the Stax gear. I had listened to the mkI / previous Stax amps on number of occasions at the same and other stores but never got too excited about it (the source was always of average quality at best though).
   
  But this time, I realized how much Stax got it right... While the HD800 was sounding really excellent through the p1u, the Stax Omega was simply so much more natural / realistic / pleasant / attractive when fed by the SRM-727a amp. In particular, the 3D layer is so much more precise as well as total lack of graininess of the highs. The cymbals shimmer through the Omega 2 is no match for the HD800 when fed by the p1u, I was shocked.
   
  So shocked that ... I went back there again today to listen exclusively to the Stax gear, comparing the different amps with the same Omega 2. I quickly gravitated toward the SRM-727a because:

 It sounds more dynamics than the SRM-007ta
 The treble of Omega 2 mkII headphones appears a tiny bit edgy / forward on the SRM-007ta while it sounds just right on the SRM-727a
 The bass is significantly tighter / more resolved & controlled on the SRM-727a
   
  Then, I compared the SRM-727a to the SRM-600 even though it's actually recommended for the Lamda series rather than Omega. Well, while I was originally attracted by the apparent dynamics / treble extension of the SRM-600, it turned it was just more of the same "issues" as the SRM-007ta when driving the Omega2: a bit hot treble and severe lack of control of the bass notes. One track that I remember sounding completely messed up on both tube amps but right on the SS amp was "S.O.S Mir" by Henri Texier sextet. It's just one jazz tune loaded with bass and baryton saxophon. There were many other examples, but I should point out I mainly listened to Jazz and acoustic pop/folk music.
   
  The SRM-727a amp has 450V of drive capability vs. 340V for SRM-007ta as well as the SRM-600. It may thus be possible that it's the same old trouble with the Omega 2, they need serious power to be properly controlled. I was listening at noon/1PM on all these amps. Also, they were all fed by balanced output of the Luxman D-06 player.
   
  At the end of the day, I actually placed an order for the SR-007a / SRM-727a setup, I am now joining club Stax after so many years of being a hardcore dynamic headphone guy, what a shock! For sure, I am keeping my HD800 and Lehman amplifier though. The Stax combo works best with Jazz / Classical / "soft" music but I am pretty sure I will want to listen to my HD800 at times I want punch over delicacy. As for my Edition 9, it may be time to go...
   
  As for the mkI sounding much better than mkII, I was not able to compare and thus cannot make a judgement. However, as I said, this is the first time Stax gear wins me over so I might be one of the few that might actually prefer the new versions... I have to say also that what got me sold is the SR-007a/SRM-727a pairing, not the others. In particular, I just could not detect any mid-bass hump / funky upper midrange with that pairing. I am thus wondering if the SR-007a is just not tuned for the Stax amps, and does not sound so good with KGSS like the mkI did?
   
  That is all for now...
   
  arnaud


----------



## mikenyc

Sounds like the Stax recruiting continues in high gear.  I started reading this thread about a month ago and pulled the trigger on the basic system (SRM-252A/SR-202) about two weeks ago.  I have been traveling and had family in town so had limited time to listen.  So far I am really impressed.  I want to live with these for a while to really get to know them but right now all indications are that I will convert to Stax completely.
   
  I have found much of the commentary here to be similar to my impressions.  I have now listened to enough music to have an initial impression and can tell you that I will be listening to a lot more classical!
   
  Strengths - I have found that drums in particular are far more realistic than my HF2 or ESW9.  And classical music is just fabulous.  I cannot stop listening to my hi-res classical recordings.  They are also very airy and completely non-fatiguing.  When I take them off after listening I do not have the adjustment period that I have with other phones.  They also sound great at low volumes which I tend to listen.
   
  Not sure items - I find that with some music they do strike me as bass shy.  I have also noticed a little haziness on the trailing edge of some female vocals (which I think are well recorded).  Still trying to figure that one out.
   
  General comments - My Wavelength Proton seems to be a decent match for these but still experimenting with different genres and recordings.  I do find myself gravitating to the music which sounds good on these.  In particular, I have completely rediscovered my classical collection.  As has been stated many times, these seem to be really picky about all aspects of the source (quality of original recording, file resolution, dac, etc.)
   
  All in all I am really thrilled.  My wallet is already screaming about the next steps!


----------



## frenshprince

Thanks for your answers.
   
  I know the star are not really basshead, especially because they are *open*, but I hoped the 4070 would do better in this area.


----------



## spritzer

A closed electostatic will always have less bass then an open one which why the closed ones are so hard to design.  The 4070 is a design marvel and it is truly impressive how well executed the bass reflex system is. 
   
  Also stating that closed headphones (never mind the transducers) have more bass then open ones has no basis in reality.


----------



## frenshprince

spritzer said:


> A closed electostatic will always have *less *bass then an open one which why the closed ones are so hard to design.


 

 I didn't know that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  So if I want the best electrostatic in bass response, it's O2.
  Am I correct ?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> A closed electostatic will always have less bass then an open one which why the closed ones are so hard to design.  The 4070 is a design marvel and it is truly impressive how well executed the bass reflex system is.
> 
> Also stating that closed headphones (never mind the transducers) have more bass then open ones has no basis in reality.


 


 I would say that the seal around the ear  is a key issue too.  This is what separates the SRX3 which lacks deep bass from the Lambdas even though both are open designs.  However even with the Lambda  I found that minor changes of the strucrture around the back of the phones can change the bass even without sealing the phones
   
   

   
  .http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/476891/does-anyone-else-think-the-stax-007-has-a-constricted-soundstage/30


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *arnaud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> snip
> 
> ...


 

 I think you would find the Mk2 are a little easier to drive than the Mk1, and if I hadn't decided to get a WES amp I might have sold my Mk1 instead of my Mk2.  Mk2 sounded much better with my GES when I did Spritzer's ear pad spring mod to pull the ear-pads, vs too forward mids when stock.  It could be very different with the Stax amps than what I heard with my GES.


----------



## mobbaddict

I'm surprised by your comment spritzer because in the study (see page 8) i posted here a while ago the Lambda Pro had much more bass (below 100 hz) when it was completely sealed. However i tried to seal mine and it sounded awful, tonality was screwed up. I agree with edstrelow that sealing around the pads improves bass response without messing too much with sound (at least to my ears).


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by frenshprince
> I didn't know that
> So if I want the best electrostatic in bass response, it's O2.
> Am I correct ?


 
   
   
  Both have excellent bass response, I give a tiny advantage to the 4070's and this could be due to the amp Im using to drive the O2's, but the 4070's are more unforgiving with records that have weak bass.


----------



## spritzer

Baffle seal is always important and something I speak often about so that's clearly not what I meant here.


----------



## mobbaddict

What's the difference between sealed and closed then?


----------



## Currawong

mobaddict: The Stax pads are designed to form an air-tight seal around the ear.  If you don't get this, you get a significant change in the frequency response.  Lambdas are a good example of this, as the bass gets out of control with some (or all?) of the vintage models as a result (my 404LE doesn't seem to have this problem as significantly).  The Omega 2 had a port added to the A/MKII version to stop the "Stax fart" caused by the seal and the result was a change in how they sound, which is why spritzer and others don't like them as much as the MKI.  The effect is completely different to what happens with dynamic headphones.  "Closed" refers to the cups on the back sealing the outer-facing side of the drivers.


----------



## jaycalgary

What do you think of this? Tango always looked like good stuff but do you think this would bring a great sound?
   
  http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1278355930&/Pratt-Audio-Stax-passive-drive


----------



## mobbaddict

Thanks Currawong i understand the advantage of the sealing pads but in the link i posted above when the Lambda Pro is *completely* air-sealed deep bass seems to be not rolled off anymore.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> What do you think of this? Tango always looked like good stuff but do you think this would bring a great sound?
> 
> http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1278355930&/Pratt-Audio-Stax-passive-drive


 

 Without knowing the spec of the transformer it is hard to say.  The wiring is pretty iffy and without a bias supply it is all but useless to a non-DIYer.  That said upgraded transformer will give you benefits but you can't just drop any old transformer in there and expect miracles.  I've been doing some work with Lundahl transformers and they do sound sublime but at a price. 
   
  Btw. Here is a Lundahl LL1630 based transformer box I finished this week fitted with my bias supply PCB and a special LED driver circuit.  About the same size as a SRD-7 on its side but sounds a lot better then my own modded unit (new bias supply, binding posts, transformers rewired directly to the windings with Kimber wire, nothing in the signal path besides the transformers).   
   
[IMG=http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5545/p1000228g.th.jpg][/IMG]


----------



## dreamwhisper

So how easily are the 4070 to drive?
  Are the stock Stax amps up to the task?


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I think you would find the Mk2 are a little easier to drive than the Mk1, and if I hadn't decided to get a WES amp I might have sold my Mk1 instead of my Mk2.  Mk2 sounded much better with my GES when I did Spritzer's ear pad spring mod to pull the ear-pads, vs too forward mids when stock.  It could be very different with the Stax amps than what I heard with my GES.


 

 I see, that would explain then. I may get around to trying this mod once I get accustomed to the setup. But, I am a bit worried of breaking anything, is that easy to implement and reversible?


----------



## spritzer

You can bend the metal back to its original state and remove the bluetack port plugs.


----------



## catscratch

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Btw. Here is a Lundahl LL1630 based transformer box I finished this week fitted with my bias supply PCB and a special LED driver circuit.  About the same size as a SRD-7 on its side but sounds a lot better then my own modded unit (new bias supply, binding posts, transformers rewired directly to the windings with Kimber wire, nothing in the signal path besides the transformers).
> 
> [IMG=http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5545/p1000228g.th.jpg][/IMG]


 

  
  Is the transformer effective in waking up the O2's bass? I really like the presentation I'm getting with the SRD-7 from the lower mids on up, but the bass is sleepy.


----------



## Currawong

Since BBCode doesn't work any longer, here's Spritzer's image/link:
   



   
  Makes me wonder if I could build a box for 'stats that plugged in to my RKV (an OTL tube amp) as the Impedenzer does, with 100 Ohm input.


----------



## Henerenry

The lundahl transformers are great, I bet your box sounds amazing
   
  I'm currently looking at one to use in a IV stage for a dac.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Btw. Here is a Lundahl LL1630 based transformer box I finished this week fitted with my bias supply PCB and a special LED driver circuit.  About the same size as a SRD-7 on its side but sounds a lot better then my own modded unit (new bias supply, binding posts, transformers rewired directly to the windings with Kimber wire, nothing in the signal path besides the transformers).
> 
> [IMG=http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5545/p1000228g.th.jpg][/IMG]


 

 As usual your casework is beautiful - very elegant.


----------



## krmathis

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Without knowing the spec of the transformer it is hard to say.  The wiring is pretty iffy and without a bias supply it is all but useless to a non-DIYer.  That said upgraded transformer will give you benefits but you can't just drop any old transformer in there and expect miracles.  I've been doing some work with Lundahl transformers and they do sound sublime but at a price.
> 
> Btw. Here is a Lundahl LL1630 based transformer box I finished this week fitted with my bias supply PCB and a special LED driver circuit.  About the same size as a SRD-7 on its side but sounds a lot better then my own modded unit (new bias supply, binding posts, transformers rewired directly to the windings with Kimber wire, nothing in the signal path besides the transformers).
> 
> [IMG=http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5545/p1000228g.th.jpg][/IMG]


 

 Awesome! 
 It looks really nice - slick case. A major improvement over a modified SRD-7 tells a bit as well.


----------



## GuyDebord

Quote: 





dreamwhisper said:


> So how easily are the 4070 to drive?
> Are the stock Stax amps up to the task?


 

 The 4070's are more easy to drive than the O2's and imo a bit more demanding than the 404's. Any of the top Stax amps (727,007 and possibly the 600) would drive them well. KGSS and GES also drive them perfectly.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> Is the transformer effective in waking up the O2's bass? I really like the presentation I'm getting with the SRD-7 from the lower mids on up, but the bass is sleepy.


 

 They are better but the low ratio and relatively small core can be improved on.  The whole box is about the same size as one of the LL1627 transformers I have here but their ratio is also not quite as high as I'd like.  I can make it work but it will never be 100% ideal, especially with low power amps.  I finished this transformer box today which uses salvaged Koss ESP10 transformers which have a much larger core (sadly not C-core though, just bog standard EI) and more then double the ratio.  They come a lot closer to powering the SR-007 but lack the really deep bass something the BH/T2 can easily muster.  They are also not nearly as smooth/detailed as the Lundahl transformers. 
  
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> Makes me wonder if I could build a box for 'stats that plugged in to my RKV (an OTL tube amp) as the Impedenzer does, with 100 Ohm input.


 

 It can be done but would most likely require custom made transformers.  You could test it with inexpensive line output transformers if you can find one with a center tap (though a virtual one is easy enough to make). 
  
  Quote:  





> As usual your casework is beautiful - very elegant.


 

 Thanks.    It was supposed to be darker in color but the guys who did the powder coating wrote down the wrong number...


----------



## AudioCats

Interesting boxes...
   
  what kind of amp power do you find necessary to drive the 1627's well? In my experience, at least 30W clean power is needed. 15W~20W doesn't quite do it.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Makes me wonder if I could build a box for 'stats that plugged in to my RKV (an OTL tube amp) as the Impedenzer does, with 100 Ohm input.


 


 LL1682 might work. use only primary sections, which is 11+5+11+5.
  connect the input into a "5" section, then link everything to form a 5: 16+16 (primary and secondary sharing one "5" section). That gives you a 3x step-up. (equiv. to a 1:15+15 for a 4 ohm, a little low but workable) .
  plus the 1682 also serves as a impedance matcher for your 4 ohm speakers.


----------



## jaycalgary

I sure get a lot of noise wearing my Lambda Signature's. It only happens when the is sudden pressure or tapped on the side. Maybe it is just that the earpads are starting to seal really good around my ears? It is horrid suction noises and a few different
  types and sucking air sounds. I can't see any holes and they seem to sound very good when left alone. My question is if they were letting air into the diaphragm area is that something you would be very obvious?
   
  P.S I miss the old site spell check is not working and less features now.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

jaycalgary said:


> I sure get a lot of noise wearing my Lambda Signature's. It only happens when the is sudden pressure or tapped on the side. Maybe it is just that the earpads are starting to seal really good around my ears? It is horrid suction noises and a few different
> types and sucking air sounds. I can't see any holes and they seem to sound very good when left alone. My question is if they were letting air into the diaphragm area is that something you would be very obvious?
> 
> P.S I miss the old site spell check is not working and less features now.





 You have found the infamous "Stax fart", from suction and seal then leakage. It's normal.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> Interesting boxes...
> 
> what kind of amp power do you find necessary to drive the 1627's well? In my experience, at least 30W clean power is needed. 15W~20W doesn't quite do it.


 

 Yeah, those were the only boxes large enough in stock at the local store.  The Lundahl box was unfinsihed so I had it powdercoated.  
   
  I've been testing the 1627 with a small 20W T-amp and even at maximum stepup the volume is almost maxed out for regular listening levels.  It's better on my Gainclone but LL1623's would have been a better choice here.


----------



## jaycalgary

I was looking at Ebay and there is [size=large]*STAX SR -A Professional Electrostatic Earspeakers with the SRD-6/SB adaptor*[/size][size=large] [/size]
*I am looking at the pictures and the box does not say professional. The SRD-6 is a normal bias unit, could these be the regular Lambda? *
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-ELECTROSTATIC-EARSPEAKERS-/140406518048?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b0e17120
   
   
   
  P.S  the old site worked a lot better than it is now.


----------



## John Buchanan

I emailed the seller of the second auction and said that he appeared to be either selling a Lambda (not Alpha) Professional with a non-pro SRD-7 (which wouldn't sound very good), or that if the Lambdas had 6 pins, they weren't the professional version. The latter is the case, as the photo makes clear. Disregard the Lambda professional owners manual.


----------



## jaycalgary

Opps sorry I edited the 2nd ebay link off because I saw that it says it is a regular Lambda. What is the Alpha version? I have read that the original Lambda non-pro is a very good earphone.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Opps sorry I edited the 2nd ebay link off because I saw that it says it is a regular Lambda. What is the Alpha version? I have read that the original Lambda non-pro is a very good earphone.


 

 The SR-α look to be quite rare; beyond that I know nothing about them.
   
  My SR-Λ (normal bias) are still in the mail, but yes, I too have heard they are quite nice.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Hello everybody, I wanted to let you know that I recently bought a Stax 007 Mk2 and Stax 717 combo.  At first the sonic signature took a little while to get accustomed to but now that I'm used to it I find this combo incredibly engaging, musical, layed back, and easy to listen to for hours.  It also works wonders for low level listening!
   
  My question is regarding the power output of the 717 for 007.  I know everybody says that the 717 is a little underpowered for 007, but I do not feel this way exactly.  My DAC is a Perfectwave DAC (with built-in pre-amp) which output higher than regular DACs (5.5 output voltage vs. 2.75 volts) and it is hooked through balanced drive which also increases current into the amp.  All of this powerful upstream into the 717 results in me having the volume between 9 o'clock for moderate low-level listening and 12 o'clock for high level listening.   The amp still has a whole lot more juice left on tap at this point.  I am wondering how something like a BHSE would improve upon the 717, especially when the 717 isn't breaking a sweat.  Is this making sense or is my logic flawed?


----------



## spritzer

Volume is just voltage, not power.    The BHSE is rather more neutral (the 717 has a clearly engineered "sound") and has the usual traits which come with letting the transducers have as much power as they truly require.  The soundstage opens up, treble is more extended, the midrange has more flesh and the bass is more linear.  Now whether the improvements are worth the price is up to you but since you are in LA it shouldn't be a problem to audition a high powered 'stat amp at some point.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Thank you for the insight Spritzer, that definitely helps at the way I look into power vs. volume.  I am very intrigued with a higher end stat amp eventually, just need to figure out if it's worth the price jump.  And btw, I do plan on listening to a whole lot of stat amps at Canjam in a month


----------



## spritzer

We will have the DIYT2 there which is the current TOTL amp so you should be in for a treat.


----------



## dreamwhisper

HEy spritzer, please let us know what your impressions are if you get a chance to try a Stacker/EHHA and a LCD2 at CanJam.
  I'd be curious to know if it compares at all to O2/BHSE.


----------



## spritzer

I'm looking forward to hearing the LCD2 but who knows what amps I'll use for it.  If the good doctor brings his Dynafet then that would be the main attraction for me especially since it can easily drive some Lundahl transformers at the same time.


----------



## Deadneddz

DIY T2 will probably be the main attraction for me, but I wish I had the BHSE in house so that I had an idea of how they compare. I'm also really looking forward to hearing the LCD-2.


----------



## n3rdling

Man you guys are making me really mad I'm not going this year.   If I call one of you while you're there, can you at least put the phone to the DIYT2/BH so I can say I got to listen to that rig?


----------



## hentai

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hentai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


 

 It sounds more focused, even better bass response and clearer. I feel its like about 5 to 10  percent of difference, It certainly give more improvements than just changing the powercord


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Man you guys are making me really mad I'm not going this year.   If I call one of you while you're there, can you at least put the phone to the DIYT2/BH so I can say I got to listen to that rig?


 

 Sounds like a plan!!


----------



## sachu

wish i was going to Canjam. Going to miss out on the DIYT2+O2 and Dynafet..two of the biggest highlights for me at this year's event. Look forward to some impressions...


----------



## brat

Quote:


hentai said:


> It sounds more focused, even better bass response and clearer. I feel its like about 5 to 10  percent of difference, It certainly give more improvements than just changing the powercord


 

 For the past 4-5 months I use Furman 16PFEi power conditioner. Power conditioning affects stax amps a lot!  My initial reaction with the Furman was "WOW!!!". Greater instrument separation, more space between instruments, more controlled and textured bass, more focused sounds. But there is another effect that I don't like - a change of the FR. There are recessed bass and a hump in the upper mids that make the sound unnatural, "metal" and somewhat stressed. After some months of hesitation I ended with plugging the stax amp back to the wall...


----------



## rille

Quote:


spritzer said:


> Btw. Here is a Lundahl LL1630 based transformer box I finished this week fitted with my bias supply PCB and a special LED driver circuit.  About the same size as a SRD-7 on its side but sounds a lot better then my own modded unit (new bias supply, binding posts, transformers rewired directly to the windings with Kimber wire, nothing in the signal path besides the transformers).


   
  What circuit did you use for the BIAS? It seems something similar to the SRD-7 because I can see no transformer.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





hentai said:


> It sounds more focused, even better bass response and clearer. I feel its like about 5 to 10  percent of difference, It certainly give more improvements than just changing the powercord


 




  Quote: 





brat said:


> Quote:
> 
> For the past 4-5 months I use Furman 16PFEi power conditioner. Power conditioning affects stax amps a lot!  My initial reaction with the Furman was "WOW!!!". Greater instrument separation, more space between instruments, more controlled and textured bass, more focused sounds. But there is another effect that I don't like - a change of the FR. There are recessed bass and a hump in the upper mids that make the sound unnatural, "metal" and somewhat stressed. After some months of hesitation I ended with plugging the stax amp back to the wall...


 


 I find that various power conditioning devices often are a matter of trading off some vices which these items reduce vs some vices that they may introduce.  Some of the cheap power filtering  strips I have used give some of the benefits you describe but suck some of the power available I used various rf chokes on cables to get rid of high ferquency harshnes but felt I was sometimes losing some of the treble I wanted.  I am sure  power conditioning  can work but a really good system would be quite expensive.
   
  I get some benefit from the PS Audio Noise Harvesters, which seem to clean up the sound somewhat and clarify the picture on myPlasma TV without any obvious detriment, but these are just what you could call parallel filters.  I keep thinking that one day I will run a dedictated power line from the circuit box and install high quality power sockets but have yet to do so


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





rille said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> spritzer said:
> ...


 

 When he said "my bias supply PCB"  above, he meant the bias supply that he designed and built last year.  He even had sold off a few spare PCB to some lucky people.  I didn't bite because I had several pro bias transformers already.


----------



## super_fied

Hi guys,what's your take on the WOO GES (Maxxed) with the O2? Would this be a safer choice over the stax amps?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> Hi guys,what's your take on the WOO GES (Maxxed) with the O2? Would this be a safer choice over the stax amps?


 
   

The GES sounds good with the O2, but it is underpowered like the SRM-T1 with the O2.  And it lacks the impact and larger soundstage of other amps like the SRM-717, eXStatA, A-10, WES, KGBH and KGBH SE. (I haven't heard the KGSS)​


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *rille* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> What circuit did you use for the BIAS? It seems something similar to the SRD-7 because I can see no transformer.


 
   
  As Larry said, it's my own circuit which is based on the same principle as the SRD-7 Mk2 circuit (so a multiplier basically) but it works better for the post 1993 Stax models.


----------



## super_fied

hi larry, thanks for the reply,
   
  In your opinion, you think the SRM 717 is a better buy than the Woo GES?


----------



## seraphjei

I was thinking of buy a STAX SRS-2050A from seyo-shop since it ranks in at around 500 dollars. I plan on buying this setup to get a taste of the electrostatic world. But my question is:
   
  Since I live in the United States, what kind of power adapter or transformer will I need to buy to power the amp?


----------



## rille

Quote:


spritzer said:


> As Larry said, it's my own circuit which is based on the same principle as the SRD-7 Mk2 circuit (so a multiplier basically) but it works better for the post 1993 Stax models.


   
  So it is confidential or is it poosible to get more information?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





seraphjei said:


> I was thinking of buy a STAX SRS-2050A from seyo-shop since it ranks in at around 500 dollars. I plan on buying this setup to get a taste of the electrostatic world. But my question is:
> 
> Since I live in the United States, what kind of power adapter or transformer will I need to buy to power the amp?


 


 The Stax site shows this as a 12 volt system.  I would go for as big a 12 volt power supply as I could get.  I used a bench power supply one time to run the Koss amp,  These are usually less than $100.00 and can also be used to charge your car battery.


----------



## momomo6789

are there o2 pads that are leather the ones on my o2s are plether and make my ears sweat ?


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





seraphjei said:


> I was thinking of buy a STAX SRS-2050A from seyo-shop since it ranks in at around 500 dollars. I plan on buying this setup to get a taste of the electrostatic world. But my question is:
> 
> Since I live in the United States, what kind of power adapter or transformer will I need to buy to power the amp?


 

 Any 12VDC 1A adapter (with the right polarity) will do - More power might be good but you'll have to pay a fair bit to get one that isn't noisy. (A fair bit meaning, more than $20-30)
   
  Alternatively, there's a bunch of 12V battery packs you could get off ebay, if you ever wanted to make it a "portable" setup.


----------



## jaycalgary

I thought the O2 came with lamb leather earpads? I just came very close to buying a 2nd hand set of black O2 Mk2. I don't mind my lamdba signatures because I can lay down with
  them on thinking the O2 might be bulkier if I tried to lay down with them on. I could get a 404LE for much less than half and think they might be more comfortable and easy to drive.
  I wonder is there a big jump in sound quality from the 2?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I thought the O2 came with lamb leather earpads? I just came very close to buying a 2nd hand set of black O2 Mk2. I don't mind my lamdba signatures because I can lay down with
> them on thinking the O2 might be bulkier if I tried to lay down with them on. I could get a 404LE for much less than half and think they might be more comfortable and easy to drive.
> I wonder is there a big jump in sound quality from the 2?


 

 Only the O2MK2 pads are supposedly real leather. The O2MK1 pads according to my sources (who inspected it) is some  fake leather. I think he called the material PVA or something of the sort. Apparently the Chinese are big in this market i was informed.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> hi larry, thanks for the reply,
> 
> In your opinion, you think the SRM 717 is a better buy than the Woo GES?


 

 For the O2 Mk1 and Mk2, yes the 717 was better.  It was a toss up with HE60, but maybe the edge goes to the 717 for more bass and wider soundstage, but the GES still seemed to have enough power in terms of volume (unlike when driving the O2). I've only heard four phones on the SRM-717 (and the amp I heard had new capacitors and wiring), and the last one was the SR-404LE which it drove pretty well.  I've tried many more phones with the GES, and it had enough power to drive for all of my Lambdas and SR-5 or Gamma Pro, as well as Koss ESP-950 and SR-003.  But, like with the O2 it was underpowered for the vintage Sigma Pro. 
   
  The SRM-717 was better than I expected and it was probably a better choice in terms of bang for the buck.  If you did get a GES, it would be better to stick with the standard $1450 version and not drop $2500 like I did on a maxed "everything but kitchen sink" version.  Re-sale will be much better, as you don't get the money back on the upgrades.  But, if you plan to get O2, I would skip the GES unless you don't like to play it loud and pretend you are at the Diana Krall concert in Paris.
   
  The HE Audio Jade were also very good on my GES, but it seems that reports of the Jade's sound quality vary a lot.  Mine seem to sound very good, but Spritzer heard Elephas's Jade and hated them, yet Elephas likes them (although admittedly they are not perfect).  Naamanf liked his HE Audio 1.3 (beta Jade) more than his O2 Mk1 but less than his K1000, and he was using a Blue Hawaii to drive both (I think all his stats are gone now).  In my case, the Jade beat the SR-404LE on the GES, WES and A-10 amps.  With a low-power amp like GES my pair of Jade could sometimes be more enjoyable than my HE60 or O2 which are more demanding.  However, with my WES amp the HE60 and O2 Mk1 really shine and they get most of my ear time now.


----------



## jaycalgary

Chinese earpads? Is all the high end stax earphones still made in Japan at least?


----------



## sachu

I didn't say the pads are made in China..just that the Chinese are big in the market of the fake leather used in the O2Mk1 pads.


----------



## dreamwhisper

I'd love to find some cloned O2 pads around somewhere. I remember seeing a thread about them somewhere...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





dreamwhisper said:


> I'd love to find some cloned O2 pads around somewhere. I remember seeing a thread about them somewhere...


 

 Sachu has found someone to make them, but he mentioned they are backordered until next year now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





rille said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> spritzer said:
> ...


 

 It isn't confidential but I can't see any upside in sharing the design.


----------



## jgazal

Certainly one may say, ‘Freedom to speak or write can be taken from us by a superior power, but never the freedom to think!’ But how much, and how correctly, would we think if we did not think, as it were, in common with others, with whom we mutually communicate!
 - Immanuel Kant, Critique of Practical Reason
   
  This is an upside.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 


​


----------



## sokolov91

Alright, well I certainly hate to be another noob asking for advice and able to contribute nothing here goes:
   
  I am looking to get out of the Dynamic headphone game. the Audeze LCD-2 and Stax are of interest to me know. I was going to go for the HD 800, but for the price, why not get off the dynamic boat?
   
  The most I can spend will be about 1500-2000$ to spend in the summer. My source currently sucks, but I might get a better SE dac before.
   
  Are STAX worth getting and using in SE or should I just get a balanced source first?
   
  You guys are mostly in the US, but do you buy local or from Japan? Prices in Canada are absurd. I was wondering how risky it would be to buy from Japan so save some money. If anyone has experiences and could share that would be great.
   
  Also, I have read the basic 202 kit enough for people to get a taste of STAX, but I don't like the rolled of treble comments...
   
  How is the the 404 "signature" kit? http://www.seyo-shop.com/product.php?productid=15406&cat=15210&page=1 I found an add here and price seems to be decent. I realize I will have to get a step down  transformer though.
   
  As far as being under amped, is it REALLY worth the extra ~800 bucks to go for a 404 + GES combo? I really don't like how it uses a potentiometer that that price point -_-.
   
  Any feedback and advice would be great


----------



## n3rdling

You could probably find a used O2/717 combo for $2k if you look in the right places...


----------



## sokolov91

Where would those places be?  every time I look on audiogon, the only decent set has been snatched up likedy split... also they are usually models from like the 80s.
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You could probably find a used O2/717 combo for $2k if you look in the right places...


----------



## dreamwhisper

Quote: 





jgazal said:


> This is an upside.


 
   
  Maybe, but a noob asking for special information should at least spell-check his post/question out of respect to the person he's asking.
  In addition, it was a gross miss-spelling, and no one likes a pottymouth. 
   
  Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> The most I can spend will be about 1500-2000$ to spend in the summer. My source currently sucks, but I might get a better SE dac before.
> 
> Are STAX worth getting and using in SE or should I just get a balanced source first?
> 
> You guys are mostly in the US, but do you buy local or from Japan? Prices in Canada are absurd. I was wondering how risky it would be to buy from Japan so save some money. If anyone has experiences and could share that would be great.


 
   
  I have tried my 717/O2's balanced and SE and the change isn't as noticeable as the sound signature differences between sources.
  Yes it would still be worth getting, but I would personally go for the LCD2 with your budget.
   
  Yeah most Stax gear is sold on Yahoo Japan Auction so that's where the stuff comes from.
  It's not any more risky to buy from Yahoo Japan auction than from eBay I would think, although more inconvenient if you don't speak Japanese.
  Luckily, Craig at Kuboten will act as a middleman for a small fee.


----------



## catscratch

Also, you could run the O2 from a pro-bias transformer box provided you have a good speaker amp. You will not get good bass control this way but with a really good amp behind it you could have some very nice sound. The catch is that a pro-bias transformer box is probably harder to get a hold of than the 717 is, but if you already have a good speaker amp it will save you some money. If not though, 717 all the way. However with the 717, you will need to do some source matching as IMO the 717, while being just about the only budget amp that can reign in the O2's bass and a nice amp overall, is not voiced in the ideal manner for it - a bit laidback, polite, and dry. So get a fluid and forward sounding source.
   
  But maybe that's just the tubehead in me speaking.
   
  Also, shoutouts to Craig at KuboTen for being awesome to work with. Highly recommended if you need all things Stax, at least in my experience.


----------



## Currawong

You'll often get reasonably-priced Lambda (of some sort) + T1 or T1S sets on Yahoo come up for reasonable prices.  The main danger with that though is the foam and the pads deteriorate, so you have to check the condition carefully and the Google translation sometimes says the opposite of what the Japanese means, but the sellers are almost universally honest about the condition, especially if it's a shop selling.


----------



## DyBre

anyone know where to look for a new set of SR-404 LE?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





dybre said:


> anyone know where to look for a new set of SR-404 LE?


 
  I'm pretty sure that no one is selling them new anymore. It's probably used or nothing.


----------



## Cya|\|

So you all guys buy the japanese version of the stax amp? How much is the cost of a stepdown tranformer, from 240 to 100v? Does it "ruin" the sound quality or not? I mean a tranformer for the stax 323 amp


----------



## padam

Most amps have a jumper inside so it is easy to change the voltage(some even have it on the back which makes it even easier), others are relatively easy to re-wire and the newest ones are not easy to re-wire afaik.
  And yes, a bad quality step-up transformer can degrade the SQ.


----------



## Michgelsen

A good transformer should not degrade the sound quality and could even improve it by acting as some sort of power conditioner.


----------



## edstrelow

If there are transformer issues, I would guess that these would be a tendency to limit amp power.  I think I have seen a number of complaints of such things affecting bass and lower midrange.
   
  If you were running the 007's this could be a big problem, but the more efficient phones like the Lambdas might not be as bothered.
   
  Re modifiying the 100 volt settings, when I bought my 717 from Japan  EIFL was able to do the mod.  However they no longer offer this service with the newer Stax amps.  I believe Stax has made this hard to do to try to stamp out the gray market of imports.
   
  I would give serious thought to a  used 117 volt 717 and used 007A or Mk1 for $2000-2500.00.


----------



## Currawong

Stax have started cutting the unused primary wires on the transformers to stop people buying the amps in Japan and selling them overseas.  Since their US distributor has a very poor reputation, IMO they are just going to alienate people as a result.  Though, that being said, most people here seem to buy and sell the older versions, so it doesn't affect us much.
   
  I do think that, however, the developing ortho market, if it catches on with the mainstream manufacturers, is going to be a big threat to Stax.  If a couple of small manufacturers are willing to make headphones to meet our expectations, versus Stax who have been doing the opposite almost, then they are going to lose out the most IMO.


----------



## jaycalgary

Why are Stax fighting to keep their amps useless for the North American Market? Just to keep there amps extremely expensive? I am sure China would make some amps if the demand was there and for well under $500 and would destroy anything Stax currently makes. Even the diy amp on here is around $300 to make and they say it is better than anything Stax puts out right now. Sad part is demand is so limited that the boards are not even available. When there is demand a product can easily be made and sold for much less than a diy'er could go out and buy the parts to make the same amp. Clone Blue Hawaii's from China would probably be around $500-1000.


----------



## AppleheadMay

Extremely expensive in the US? A Stax 007MkII + 727II costs €5000 over here. Now that's insane.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





appleheadmay said:


> Extremely expensive in the US? A Stax 007MkII + 727II costs €5000 over here. Now that's insane.


 

 I can beat that!
   
  The Stax 007MkII + 007tII combo costs 9999 Aussie dollars at Sydney's only Stax retailer (that's more than €7000 at the current exchange rate).


----------



## momomo6789

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I can beat that!
> 
> The Stax 007MkII + 007tII combo costs 9999 Aussie dollars at Sydney's only Stax retailer (that's more than €7000 at the current exchange rate).


 

 i bet they sell zero ! EVER !


----------



## AppleheadMay

And I thought I won. Damn Aussies! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  Anyway, I found me a nice used 717 from the US and a O2MkI that was lying around at a dealer's shop and had been only used as a demo, more in a glass cupboard that anything else. As far as the distributor for the BeNeLux could tell it was the last one available. And I even got a 2 year guarantee.


----------



## dreamwhisper

I bet you'd be surprised, if someone ever goes into the store to try them and has some cheddar to burn.
  An investment banker on lunch break munchin on a Quizno's. Do they have Quizno's down under?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> i bet they sell zero ! EVER !


 

 That could be true. We could buy the earspeakers from Japan, order a Blue Hawaii, and still have funds left over.

  
  Quote: 





dreamwhisper said:


> I bet you'd be surprised, if someone ever goes into the store to try them and has some cheddar to burn.
> An investment banker on lunch break munchin on a Quizno's. Do they have Quizno's down under?


 
   
  I've been in there to try them (but I am no longer a banker).
   
  And yes we do have Quizno's here, but not many; there are heaps more subways.


----------



## nattonrice

Quote:  





> The Stax 007MkII + 007tII combo costs 9999 Aussie dollars at Sydney's only Stax retailer (that's more than €7000 at the current exchange rate).


 

 Lenwallis Audio fail.
  God that store pisses me off.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





nattonrice said:


> Lenwallis Audio fail.
> God that store pisses me off.


 

 You can say that again!


----------



## spritzer

I wouldn't worry about Stax sales suffering, they have never been able to meet demand as it is.  Just look at the 404LE, as soon as a new shipment hit the distributors, it was gone.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Since their US distributor has a very poor reputation, IMO they are just going to alienate people as a result.


 

 I wonder if Stax knows about this. Maybe the American headfi'ers should send Stax a letter, letting them know now poor the service of the distributor is. As a result they might try to find a new one.


----------



## Cya|\|

So are the stax amps the only choice for the stax headphones? And are the stax the only good electrostatic headphones?
  Men, i'd really like to get electrostatic headphones over to the akg k701, but these stamps combos are way too expensive.


----------



## ktm

My local Dallas dealer got tired of the hassles with the distributor and dropped the Stax line.
  It's a shame, but that's life. It would be nice if they would do a re-design of the current line up
  and made getting their product easier. But as long as they make money doing what the do now,
  it's unlikely they'll change. If the current line up improved, the price of older models would drop
  down to reasonable levels, and more people could go to stats. But the trend from 
  all brands seems to be big $$$$ for their better cans. And I don't mean by $100 either.
  If Senn and Beyer could of had a new set of cans in the $600 range, it would of sold like hotcakes.
  Instead, we see the doubling of price and short supply issues. Welcome to the high end!


----------



## studeb

If i may interuppt the Stax-needs-to-get-its-act-together-or-not conversation.
   
  Where can you buy the pins to make a stax jack? i have unsuccesfully tried several from Mouser and they do not fit.
   
  Anyone know?


----------



## edstrelow

Yamasinc the US distributer has gone downhill in the last few years. The last Canjam was in LA anout 30 miles from their location and they had no contact at all that I could see.  They don't return phone calls but sometimes e-mails seem to get through.
   
  Stax must have a repair facility to meet US laws about warranties. I am not sure if they couldn't do this with an overseas facility but postage would then be an issue.
   
  From Yamasinc's prespective, they must be frustrated by all the gray market sales.  Of course if they hadn't been gouging the market with excessive mark-ups for so many years they might have a more vibrant local business.   This problem is not unique to Stax,  many other importers screw you for the cost of importing.  The problem seems even worse in some other countries.
   
  Of course the internet is a big leveller.  For some years now I have been bringing in expensive items such as the 007A and 717 direct from Japan.  It's highly unlikely I would have been able to pull that off previously although some years back  I did manage a Sigma/pro  rebuild by Stax Japan just using a fax machine to communicate.


----------



## rainsire

sweet.


----------



## Cya|\|

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Yamasinc the US distributer has gone downhill in the last few years. The last Canjam was in LA anout 30 miles from their location and they had no contact at all that I could see.  They don't return phone calls but sometimes e-mails seem to get through.
> 
> Stax must have a repair facility to meet US laws about warranties. I am not sure if they couldn't do this with an overseas facility but postage would then be an issue.
> 
> ...


 

 Why don't you and the other people who imported from japan, and bought a transformer from japan to usa or eu voltage, write a step to step guide on how to do that?
  If you want ofc, i know it would take quite some time.


----------



## AppleheadMay

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> Why don't you and the other people who imported from japan, and bought a transformer from japan to usa or eu voltage, write a step to step guide on how to do that?
> If you want ofc, i know it would take quite some time.


 

 I would be interested in that too, even though mine has been changed by the seller.


----------



## dreamwhisper

Wow, my SRM-717's warm-up really makes or breaks a listening session.
  Basically what I'm noticing is a slight channel imbalance, but it throws you
  I think it likes at least a half hour or so of warm-up, but lately I've just been leaving it on.
   
  Either that or it's still burning in. (It's at 775 hours)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> Why don't you and the other people who imported from japan, and bought a transformer from japan to usa or eu voltage, write a step to step guide on how to do that?
> If you want ofc, i know it would take quite some time.


 




  Quote: 





appleheadmay said:


> I would be interested in that too, even though mine has been changed by the seller.


 


 Firstly my more recent experience is that Stax Japan won't reply to communications.  It now pushes you onto the local distributer.
   
  As regards the other items I have brought in, I simply went through a reliable distributer, in this case EIFL Japan, who BTW are currenlty offering the 007A for $1,900 shipped http://www.eifl.co.jp/index/export/stax/sr007a.htm.  However they make clear that they no longer can modify amp voltages.
   
  I have also had some success with Audiocubes 2.  Other members have reported good experience with some others.  There are agents who will bid for you on Japanese auctions, but I have no knowledge of that myself.
   
  There has never been any customs issue with any of the stuff I have bought. It seems to just come flying in with no delay whatsoever.


----------



## yukari

Just got my 2nd-hand STAX 404LTD+600LTD from Japan, with some help from a friend there



   
  Still searching for source, but also need to look around for cables.
  Currently....temp setup as computer> iqube v2's usb DAC> cheap 3.5mm-RCA cable [need sth else probably, any suggestion?] > 600LTD (with 120w 230v-115v step down transformer from jaycar) > 404LTD.
   
  Still, even with this temp setup, I am still enjoying it. =)
   
  Any reasonable priced 3.5mm-RCA cables suggestions?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## nattonrice

Quote: 





studeb said:


> Where can you buy the pins to make a stax jack? i have unsuccesfully tried several from Mouser and they do not fit.
> 
> Anyone know?


 

 The sexy machined teflon Stax jacks that you've seen around all use the CMC / Connex pins from their octal tube sockets.
  Two choices: order an octal machined teflon socket (from pcx or diyhifisupply), or if you have friends in China they can probably get you a couple of hundred for a good price.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





yukari said:


> Just got my 2nd-hand STAX 404LTD+600LTD from Japan, with some help from a friend there


 
   
  Awesome - I'm also enjoying my 404LEs


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





dreamwhisper said:


> Wow, my SRM-717's warm-up really makes or breaks a listening session.
> Basically what I'm noticing is a slight channel imbalance, but it throws you
> I think it likes at least a half hour or so of warm-up, but lately I've just been leaving it on.
> 
> Either that or it's still burning in. (It's at 775 hours)


 
  I have found the warming up of my humble SRM-313 very important for a satisfying listening too, but nothing related to the channel balance, so I find your comment rather surprising.
  Still burning in at ~800 hours I find hard to believe.
   
  Also, to digress a bit, the warming up of my even much more humble T-amp is extremely important, to the point that there's at least a 3-4 dB (!) difference in the bass to my estimation.


----------



## studeb

Quote: 





nattonrice said:


> The sexy machined teflon Stax jacks that you've seen around all use the CMC / Connex pins from their octal tube sockets.
> Two choices: order an octal machined teflon socket (from pcx or diyhifisupply), or if you have friends in China they can probably get you a couple of hundred for a good price.


 
  Thanks, i have teflon that i can "sexy machine" myself, just having trouble finding the pins. i will look up those sockets.
   
  thanks


----------



## edstrelow

I was taking one of the earcups of my 007A apart to allow my to shorten the elastic band over the top when I decided to look in the cup a bit more.  It seemed odd but I couldn't see any kind of dustcover over the driver.  Am I missing something or is there no dust cover?


----------



## AppleheadMay

Does anyone know where I can find documentation on the Stax SRM-717?
  Like a user manual and a service manual? Especially the latter one.


----------



## edstrelow

I beleive I have seen a listing on Ebay for Stax manuals on CD.  Whether they would have that one could be the issue.  I have heard that Stax is pretty tight about manuals and circuit diagrams although I have a diagram on my old SRA12S amp, which came with the owner's manual.


----------



## AppleheadMay

Thanks. I found the CD on eBay but for the 717 they only have the brochure, not the manual and schematic.
   
  I'm lloking for two things specifically:
   
  1) How to change the voltage on the 717 from 110V to 220V.
   
  2) How to remove the volume bypass.


----------



## spritzer

I can help you with both of those.


----------



## Duckman

Glad to see the new gear up and running, Yukari.
   
  I wonder how the O2 would perform with the SRM600.


----------



## AppleheadMay

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I can help you with both of those.


 

 I was going to ask you when I send the photos of the damaged amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I am not sure the voltage on the new one can be set in the same way though since it has board version 2 and the amp boards are black now.
  Probably the same thing with the metal rods still but I can't see that on the images I have of the new one. I'll send you some too.


----------



## spritzer

There is no real difference between the different board layouts, the newer one was just introduced because Stax ran out of the dual transistors.  The transformer wiring is still the same.


----------



## Cya|\|

So guys, i red some reviews about the in ear stax, and they talk very well about them. How do you compare the 005 system to the 3050 or 4040?
  It seems much cheaper, and can afford it. Do you also think it's better than akg k701 or sennheiser hd650 (or maybe even hd800)?


----------



## yukari

Quote: 





duckman said:


> Glad to see the new gear up and running, Yukari.
> 
> I wonder how the O2 would perform with the SRM600.


 

 Thx!
  Would love to try the O2 from you =)


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> So guys, i red some reviews about the in ear stax, and they talk very well about them. How do you compare the 005 system to the 3050 or 4040?
> It seems much cheaper, and can afford it. Do you also think it's better than akg k701 or sennheiser hd650 (or maybe even hd800)?


 
  I've never heard it, but I know that some people have comfort issues with the little SR-005, while others don't. If possible, try before you buy.
   
  By the way, the Stax site now says that 'production' of the portable set 'was finished'. They still have the 005 system though.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





duckman said:


> Glad to see the new gear up and running, Yukari.
> 
> I wonder how the O2 would perform with the SRM600.


 

 Hey Duckman, what amp are you currently using for your SR-007s?


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> So guys, i red some reviews about the in ear stax, and they talk very well about them. How do you compare the 005 system to the 3050 or 4040?
> It seems much cheaper, and can afford it. Do you also think it's better than akg k701 or sennheiser hd650 (or maybe even hd800)?


 

 It's hard to pick my favourite between the 003 and my Lambda... they're quite different. The 003 is a bit faster and more bass-mids focused (quite laid-back actually), while the Lambda sounds much bigger of course and subjectively more detailed, but the mids are somewhat too thin for my tastes compared to the thick midrange of the 003. When i switch from one to another i fully realize their own flaws, and in the end it's really a matter of compromise. But yes the SR-003 can definitely compete with pricy headphone IMO.


----------



## DyBre

having a hard time looking for a set of SR-404 LE, i'm seriously considering the airbow SR-SC1, since not much of reviews for this beast, how would this compared to SR-404 LE?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





dybre said:


> having a hard time looking for a set of SR-404 LE, i'm seriously considering the airbow SR-SC1, since not much of reviews for this beast, how would this compared to SR-404 LE?


 
   
  Regarding SR-SC1 vs SR-404 Limited they're both quite rare. According to Spritzer in this thread they sound quite close which means they both sound quite enjoyable - I think you'd be happy owning either.
  
  Now who actually sells the Airbow? I missed out on the one in the FS forums a little while ago... I too wanted to compare them to the 404 Limiteds. Are there any online retailers?


----------



## Currawong

I was lucky.  I decided to drop by a local hi-fi dealer and he had a 404LE/SRM-600 set. I only bought the 404LE though.  I've heard a lot of good things about the SR-SC1 and hope I can try a pair one day.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I was lucky.  I decided to drop by a local hi-fi dealer and he had a 404LE/SRM-600 set. I only bought the 404LE though.  I've heard a lot of good things about the SR-SC1 and hope I can try a pair one day.


 

 I bought my pair about a month ago; I thought they'd all sold out worldwide but I got one of the last pairs from elusivedisc.


----------



## catscratch

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> So guys, i red some reviews about the in ear stax, and they talk very well about them. How do you compare the 005 system to the 3050 or 4040?
> It seems much cheaper, and can afford it. Do you also think it's better than akg k701 or sennheiser hd650 (or maybe even hd800)?


 
   
  The 003 is pretty close in presentation to the Omega 2 (mk1) whereas the 303 and 404 are quite different. The 003 is warm and fairly forward in the midrange, has good bass that could go a bit deeper and highs that aren't emphasized and lack a little bit of extension. The speed is pretty ridiculous though and midrange tone is about as good as it gets at this price, or just about anywhere for that matter. They also offer a small but focused soundstage with good imaging, and sound very fluid. The Omega 2 is of course better in just about all respects and is much better at the frequency extremes, but tonality is similar and the overall warm, fluid, and very focused feel is pretty close, so if you like the 003 the O2 is the natural way to go.
   
  The 303/404 has a much bigger soundstage but its imaging is more diffuse; it sounds like it's trying too hard to be spatious and loses some imaging accuracy as a result. Its mids are tilted up towards the upper midrange and lower mids are a bit lacking, which gives it a somewhat unnatural and honky tone; that's the main flaw that turns me off from these headphones. They're drier and less fluid than the 003, but they aren't dry in the absolute sense and can still be quite fluid if the source and amp are up to spec. The bass is pretty good and goes very deep, the highs are very extended if a little bit hard in the lower treble, resolution is excellent and in general these are really great headphones for ambient music - the huge soundstage really makes things sound very airy. Properly driven they can sound like Grados with soundstage, forward and punchy, but from most Stax amps they'll be a lot more laid-back.
   
  I prefer the 003 over the 404 by a good margin. The 404 would be a better headphone if not for the mids, but I just can't stand that coloration. The 303 is the same as the 404 minus a bit of transparency. Go for the 005 system, but expect to spend a not inconsiderable amount of time trying to get the damn headphones to fit properly - they're like an IEM in that they need a good fit or they can sound congested - and even at the best of times they're not that comfortable. But there's very little that competes with them in terms of sound quality for the buck and they will beat out many full-size systems that they should have no right to even come close to. The headphones also scale really well and can sound scary good out of a higher-quality rig.
   
  I'm not a fan of the K701, the HD650 will scale really well and can sound downright fantastic in the right rig, but then again so can the 003. I think in most rigs the 003 will sound better. They're fairly similar actually in terms of overall feel, though the 003 is of course much faster and more forward.


----------



## anetode

jjinh said:


> I bought my pair about a month ago; I thought they'd all sold out worldwide but I got one of the last pairs from elusivedisc.


 



currawong said:


> I was lucky.  I decided to drop by a local hi-fi dealer and he had a 404LE/SRM-600 set. I only bought the 404LE though.  I've heard a lot of good things about the SR-SC1 and hope I can try a pair one day.


 

 I don't know about the SR-SC1, but at least the 404LE marks an attempt to make these fine headphones less ugly. I picked up a used pair over the regular 404s just for that, and for some music they sound better than the SR-007, if you can handle a little crunch in the treble.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





anetode said:


> I don't know about the SR-SC1, but at least the 404LE marks an attempt to make these fine headphones less ugly. I picked up a used pair over the regular 404s just for that, and for some music they sound better than the SR-007, if you can handle a little crunch in the treble.


 
   
  Yeh, the 404LE look better than the brown of the lambda nova signatures I have next to me, and sound heaps better. I think I even prefer my SR-202 over the LNS.

 Since you mention the SR-007, I recently purchased a pair of mk1s using kuboten - I'm eagerly looking forward to hearing them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, hopefully the brown isnt as yucky as with the LNS.


----------



## anetode

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. The classy, understated look & well-engineered build of Stax's O2s make the likes of Ultrasone "Edition" series look like a joke. IMHO


----------



## Duckman

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Hey Duckman, what amp are you currently using for your SR-007s?


 

 I've borrowed a friend's Exstata solid state. And don't worry, the O2s look great.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





anetode said:


> I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. The classy, understated look & well-engineered build of Stax's O2s make the likes of Ultrasone "Edition" series look like a joke. IMHO


 
   
  I mean the pics look nice, but why brown? Maybe I should have got a black mk1, or mk2?
  
  Quote: 





duckman said:


> I've borrowed a friend's Exstata solid state. And don't worry, the O2s look great.


 

 Thanks, I suppose I cant see what headphones I using anyway.


----------



## anetode

Um, how to say it delicately... There's that 60s-80s dull-shine molded plastic with brown pigment that just looks like crap. Then there's the matte brown sumptuous leather of the sorts used in O2s which has a different impact in real life than in photographs.


----------



## DyBre

waiting for spritzer to enlighten us with both comparisons, since he used to own both of them. IMHO, the cable used in airbow should be better since it is cryoed, however SR-404 LE uses leather pads. great rivals though.


----------



## Cya|\|

Thx a  lot for the many answers.
  Indeed the 005 seems the best choice, as it's kinda affordable for me too.
  Maybe i'll pair it with silver rca cables (you can find them cheap on ebay from chinese sellers), just to pump trebles a little.
  Edit: i mean silver plated. As with the "skin effect" high frequencies travel on the edges of cables, so even if it's only silver plated, it's fine to boost high frequencies a little.


----------



## krmathis

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I mean the pics look nice, but why brown? Maybe I should have got a black mk1, or mk2?
> 
> Thanks, I suppose I cant see what headphones I using anyway.


 

 SR-007BL all the way - black so-called MK1 that is.


----------



## graben

I think I am going to be ordering a 404le tonight and a 202, I will compare thrm to the SC-1 that I had. and my current LNS ( I missed the one I sold, so I got another one)


----------



## AppleheadMay

Well, I just came home with my SR-007 (brown) which was a demo model from the BeNeLux distributor, outfitted with new pads and headband (brown). Probably the last one to buy officially with guarantee around here. I bought me some extra MkII pads and a MkII headband since the material seems to be better.
  My 717 arrived this week by mail, a tad damaged by the *************************** (you really don't wanna know what those words were 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Belgian customs.
  It still plays fine though, and I'm trying to get the parts to get it back to pristine state.
   
  I have them on my head now for the first time, so I won't comment on the SQ yet. I need to get used to it, but it seems impressive at first hear.


----------



## Michgelsen

jjinh said:


> Regarding SR-SC1 vs SR-404 Limited they're both quite rare. According to Spritzer in this thread they sound quite close which means they both sound quite enjoyable - I think you'd be happy owning either.
> 
> Now who actually sells the Airbow? I missed out on the one in the FS forums a little while ago... I too wanted to compare them to the 404 Limiteds. Are there any online retailers?


   

 You can buy them directly from a Japanese site I believe. Google 'airbow sr-sc1', it's the first hit. I guess Kuboten could arrange something if you can't speak/write Japanese..? Just an idea.
   
   
   
   


cya|\| said:


> Edit: i mean silver plated. As with the "skin effect" high frequencies travel on the edges of cables, so even if it's only silver plated, it's fine to boost high frequencies a little.


   
  The Stax thread is no place for such ridiculousness. Do some further reading on the skin effect and properties of cables.


----------



## spritzer

I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  At it's core it is basically the same circuit as the much loved KGSS but with a few very important improvements, higher rail voltages then the stock amp (+/-500V compared to +/-350V), a constant current source loaded outputstage (which the KGSS lacked) and the best part, it is fitted with a truly top of the line PSU, the same one as can be found in our DIYT2 project.  With these improvements we have an amp which can give any of the tube based units a run for their money (T2, BH, WES and ESX) with the comfort and lack of fuss SS brings to the table. 
   
  The boards are designed to be fitted to large, side mounted heatsinks.  The amp board has both channels on one PCB and the PSU is alos complete on one PCB.  They can either be mounted on either side of a single chassis or in two separate boxes.  The amp board is fitted with a spot for the volume pot and PCB mounted XLR jacks but there are also porvisions for normal input tabs.  The volume pots the boards are designed for are all 4-gang, a DACT CT-2, TKD 4CP-601 and a custom made Alpha pot which I had made for me.  These are cheaper then an RK27, sound better and I'll be selling them from my own stash at cost. 
   
  Now the best part, you can build one of these for under 500$.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  All parts are easy to get and the project will be accompanied with a full BOM plus detailed instructions on how to build one.  The power transformer have to be custom ordered but companies like SumR provide such excellent service that this is by no means harder then picking up a prebuilt unit.  You are also only paying for stuff you need and the transformer can be optimized for audio use. 
   
  I hope you are as excited as I am...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 What can I say except WOW!  I am not great at DIY but I would be a lot more likely to succeed with solid state than tubes, so this looks like the way for me to go state of the art.


----------



## Henerenry

I am truely excited! will there be a full kit availble anytime?


----------



## n3rdling

Sounds really nice!  I look forward to following the build thread and will likely buy a board set.


----------



## spritzer

Probably not a full kit but all parts are easily available from Mouser and Bdent.  With Mouser it is easy to just do a batch inport from a BOM and order it so it would be pretty much like buying a kit.  The only problem part is the input transistor, LSK389 but there are spots for the (2 or L)SK170's which also fit.  If they would presnet any issue then we'd just ship them with the boards.  Parts quality is also excellent, the chosen resistors for this project are the excellent Xicon metal films (they can withstand more voltage then the standard Vishay's) and all PSU coupling caps are 1kV Wima MKP's.


----------



## Henerenry

Yeah, a mouser batch would be great.
   
  You got me excited spritzer!
   
  Great work by you and Kevin


----------



## kevin gilmore

The 3rd stage gets the cascoded current source.
  The output stage already has a constant current source.
  The slew rate is more than double that of the original
  design.
   
  Board set should be about $50 plus shipping.
  (1 ea stereo amp board, 1 ea power supply)


----------



## jjinh

I think we're all excited! spritzer, KG, a big thanks for all your hard work; it's much appreciated.


----------



## les_garten

Very Kewl!
   
  Bringing affordable Hi Quality Stat amps to the masses is a noble Endeavor!


----------



## Currawong

I had already purchased KGSS boards, so this is great news for me, as I gather I can use the main board with only a few parts changed.
   
  Big thanks to Kevin Gilmore and Spritzer for creating this.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I had already purchased KGSS boards, so this is great news for me, as I gather I can use the main board with only a few parts changed.
> 
> Big thanks to Kevin Gilmore and Spritzer for creating this.


 

 So its not a slightly different board?


----------



## momomo6789

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
   
   
  how long till they will be fs ? weeks or months ?


----------



## monsieurguzel

Wow what great news Spritzer!  You and Dr. Gilmore really have contributed so much to the world of electrostats on multiple forums!  Thanks to you guys more people will be willing to invest in a Stax setup now that it won't cost $5000 (+ long wait) to get them properly amped!


----------



## plaidplatypus

Does justin w. plan on building these or will it strictly be a DIY affair?


----------



## graben

Really looking forward to this! Guess I need to find someone who can build it for me


----------



## wink

Is this a good candidate for a group buy...????


----------



## jaycalgary

I would really like to build one of these, Thanks for the great work and sharing with the community. My question is about the level of difficulty to build? I have basic soldering skills and can follow a schematic
  but more pictures and tips from others building these I thing I will have a good chance of success. One other question is if I put one of these together properly is there still tests like having to bias or calibrate
  by turning screws or do these projects usually fire up and work just fine if everything is correct?


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> time to cancel bhse order ^_^
> 
> how long till they will be fs ? weeks or months ?


 

 It's really not necessary to file a PayPal dispute (with an obnoxious message suggesting it will 'speed me up') just 5 hours after sending a PM asking for a refund on a Saturday evening.  Most of the time making threats against people's livelihoods doesn't earn a positive response.  I handle all requests to changes orders quickly I don't know where you came up with this crap.


----------



## Lunatique

I had my first experience with Stax yesterday, and I fell in love with the 007MKII (powered by the 717). I was comparing it to my D7000 and I prefer the O2 in every way--it's just far more natural and textured, and while the 30Hz region is a bit rolled-off compared to the D7000, it surprising matches the lush and full-bodied deep/punchy bass of the D7000. Other headphones I've tested where the 30Hz region is rolled-off cannot pull that off (such as the W1000X, DX1000, HD800...etc).
   
  So now I'm planning on my very first Stax purchase (also my first electrostatic), and I've seen different opinions. Some say the MK1 has deeper bass extension (but less mid-bass and mids) than the MK2, I don't know if the MK1's deeper extension and leaner mid-bass will be able to match the D7000's lush and full bass as well as the MK2.
   
  Also, I originally wanted to test the 4070, since I read that being closed-back, it should have better bass extension, but it seems some people are saying the opposite--that the O2MK2 actually has deeper bass than the 4070, despite being open-back?
   
  As for the amp, someone PM'd me and said that he and his friend has compared the more expensive Stax amps to the cheaper Stax amps, and the cheaper ones sounded the same as the expensive ones, so I shouldn't bother paying more for the more expensive amps. He didn't want to post this publicly as he felt people will jump on him for saying so. Is he right?
   
  In general I don't like to deal with tubes for anything--the hassle of replacement and warming up is just not worth it to me. I much more prefer solid state.


----------



## momomo6789

nvm


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> As for the amp, someone PM'd me and said that he and his friend has compared the more expensive Stax amps to the cheaper Stax amps, and the cheaper ones sounded the same as the expensive ones, so I shouldn't bother paying more for the more expensive amps. He didn't want to post this publicly as he felt people will jump on him for saying so. Is he right?


 

 Which amps was he talking about?? Anyway I think otherwise, e.g. my SRM-007t is much better than my SRM-252II for the electrostatic headphones I've used.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Wow! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  This is amazing news!  I don't have the chops at the moment, but I will be trying my hardest.
   
  Spritzer you really are the backbone of the Stax community.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Which amps was he talking about?? Anyway I think otherwise, e.g. my SRM-007t is much better than my SRM-252II for the electrostatic headphones I've used.


 

 This is what he wrote:
   
  In case you intend to buy the 007 someday, i advise you to try it out of the cheaper Stax amps. I auditioned it twice out of various amps: an expensive McAlister (1500-2000$), the 727, the 007T, and my 212.
  I found no difference between the McAlister and my 212 (seriously). It sounded very close to the 727 as well (i did not do any head to head comparison). Deep bass was not rolled off with my 212 (at least compared to the other amps).
  Another guy on a French hifi forum told me the same thing and he owns both 717 & 212.
  I'm not posting this on your thread because this is not a very popular opinion here


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> This is what he wrote:
> 
> In case you intend to buy the 007 someday, i advise you to try it out of the cheaper Stax amps. I auditioned it twice out of various amps: an expensive McAlister (1500-2000$), the 727, the 007T, and my 212.
> I found no difference between the McAlister and my 212 (seriously). It sounded very close to the 727 as well (i did not do any head to head comparison). Deep bass was not rolled off with my 212 (at least compared to the other amps).
> ...


 
   
  My SR-007s are still in Japan so I cant comment on those, but I'll say my SRM-252II sounds anaemic compared to my SRM-007t for the SR-202, 404 Limiteds, Lambda Pros, Lambda Nova Signatures and Sennheiser HE-60 (all of which I currently have with me, the latter 2 on loan from another headfier).
   
  Considering this I'd say the 717 is much better than the 212.


----------



## AppleheadMay

That's really great news Spritzer! I'm sold already on this uber solid state amp.
  I have no idea how I will do it, but I'll try to find some help over here to have tha amp built.
  As I understand you will be posting a full list of parts to buy and schematics on how to build it?
  I wonder how I'm going to pull that off, but I'll find a way. Not planning on releasing a noob instruction manual by any chance?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Edit:
  Quote:
   


> All parts are easy to get and the project will be accompanied with a full BOM plus detailed instructions on how to build one.


 
  In my excitement I didn't notice this. That should help me a lot. The fact that I just made a phone call and found me an engineer in electronics that has agreed to help me out might just help a little too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote:
   


> The volume pots the boards are designed for are all 4-gang, a DACT CT-2, TKD 4CP-601 and a custom made Alpha pot which I had made for me.  These are cheaper then an RK27, sound better and I'll be selling them from my own stash at cost.


 
  So we can actually order the Alpha pot from you Spritzer?
   
  Quote:
   


> it is fitted with a truly top of the line PSU, the same one as can be found in our DIYT2 project


 
   


> and the PSU is alos complete on one PCB


 
   


> The power transformer have to be custom ordered but companies like SumR provide such excellent service that this is by no means harder then picking up a prebuilt unit.  You are also only paying for stuff you need and the transformer can be optimized for audio use.


 
  The PSU part has got me a little puzzled. So it's a complete PSU mounted on a PCB, ready to be wired up. The PSU already exeists since it is used in the T2 DIY. So I guess we can order it from the same company you ordered it from and simply ask for the same thing you ordered before?
  And it can be used for 110V and 230V alike?
   
   
   
   
  Sounds like getting all the right parts are an ideal group buy thing here.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Its the same design power supply as the T2, but only the +500 and -500 and the +15 and -15 are needed.
   
  The +250 and -260 and -60 volt supplies are not used. Neither is the 4 filament supplies.
   
  The T2 has 3 transformers including one that is filaments and low voltage only.
   
  This one will have only one transformer. So the transformer is not the same.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> how long till they will be fs ? weeks or months ?


 

 Weeks.  The board design is ready but just has to be built and verified. 
   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> The 3rd stage gets the cascoded current source.
> The output stage already has a constant current source.


 
   
  This is what I get for my perpetual lack of sleep... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> So its not a slightly different board?


 

 Completely new design.  The current KGSS boards (which Justin designed and therefor owns) uses board mounted heatsinks but the only way to build this amp is to use larger sinks due to the extra heat it will give off.  To give you a mental picture the board is a bit like taking the current KGSS board, cut it in half and place the pieces side by side. 
  
  Quote: 





plaidplatypus said:


> Does justin w. plan on building these or will it strictly be a DIY affair?


 

 This is DIY only for now but I see no problem with commercial version being built in the future unlike using the Exstata design as the basis of a commercial venture.  Whether Headamp will build it is up to Justin.
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Is this a good candidate for a group buy...????


 

 Some parts might be a good candidates for a group buy, for instance a chassis with side mounted heatsinks, transformers and having the angle brackets (which transfer the heat from the transistors to the heatsinks) machined.  Teflon Stax sockets would also be another candidate. 
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I would really like to build one of these, Thanks for the great work and sharing with the community. My question is about the level of difficulty to build? I have basic soldering skills and can follow a schematic
> but more pictures and tips from others building these I thing I will have a good chance of success. One other question is if I put one of these together properly is there still tests like having to bias or calibrate
> by turning screws or do these projects usually fire up and work just fine if everything is correct?


 

 The current KGSS amp is one of the most simple designs you can build for such an advanced design and this one should be no harder to build.  Good soldering technique is crucial when working with these voltages and being aware of any potential shorts as arcs (where voltage is high enough to break down the insulation of the atmosphere or some other insulator and jump) can form.  The rest is just a matter of having the correct parts, stuffing them the right way around and it should work. 
   
  Adjusting something like this is rather simple.  In the PSU there is nothing to adjust and everything is regulated and the HV supplies are current limited too so they will not blow up should something go wrong with the amp.  In the amp there are two pots per channel just like with the current KGSS.  All measurements are made at the Stax socket, one of the pots sets the balanced between the + and - sections of each channel, the other one is adjusted for as little DC voltage on the output as is possible.  Now electrostatics aren't sensitive to DC at all so a 5V offset means nothing in terms of the massive voltage swing this beast is capable of. 
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> This is what he wrote:
> 
> In case you intend to buy the 007 someday, i advise you to try it out of the cheaper Stax amps. I auditioned it twice out of various amps: an expensive McAlister (1500-2000$), the 727, the 007T, and my 212.
> I found no difference between the McAlister and my 212 (seriously). It sounded very close to the 727 as well (i did not do any head to head comparison). Deep bass was not rolled off with my 212 (at least compared to the other amps).
> ...


 
   
  If you look at the design of these amps and realize what the transducers need then you'd know just how much BS this is.  The McAllister amp is utter crap, badly made, badly designed and using what ever compoenents are the cheapest.  To be honest, he sets a new record for badly made amplifiers even putting Single Power to shame. 
   
  I'm currently working on a fully balanced version of the SRM-Xh (just an older version of the SRM-252/212) so I know these amps rather well and even by squeazing as much power as I can out of these small units it doesn't stand a chance in hell of even being compared to the SRM-1 Mk2. 
   
  Quote: 





appleheadmay said:


> That's really great news Spritzer! I'm sold already on this uber solid state amp.
> I have no idea how I will do it, but I'll try to find some help over here to have tha amp built.
> As I understand you will be posting a full list of parts to buy and schematics on how to build it?
> I wonder how I'm going to pull that off, but I'll find a way. Not planning on releasing a noob instruction manual by any chance?
> ...


 

 Ok, I have no idea how to split up the quote like we could on the vbullitin version so all the replies are bundled together. 
   
  There will be a comprehensive guide on how to build one of these but the level of detail can't be such that a novice can build something like this.  Still it will be made as easy as is possible but reading articles like that of the B22 will cover most of which applies to this amp.  Even though the voltages are high, the basic aspects still remain the same in terms of wiring, grounding and how to test the amp. 
   
  I will supply the Alpha pot and the price is around 25$ which is what they cost me plus the cost packaging materials.  I'll have to find the boxes to ship them in locally before I know the exact price but this will have to wait until after Canjam.  Shipping is extra but sending a small package from Iceland isn't expensive.  The pot has a 25mm long, 6mm shaft, is Log A and 50K. 
   
  The PSU design is the same but you have to build it.  The PSU costs more then the amp to populate but that should be the case with all quality amplifiers.  What governs 1007/117/230V compatability is the transformer used and the primaries present.  Since the transformer is a custom unit you can get just a single 230V primary or a single 117V primary but I'd recommend dual 117V primaries so the input voltage could be changed.  Having taps installed for 100V use wouldn't be a problem if one wants that feature.


----------



## krmathis

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Great news!
  You and Kevin certainly do (and have done) great things for the electrostatic fans around here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I am more of a SS fan than a tube fan, so this seems right up my alley. Better start refreshing my soldering skills I guess.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer*
> 
> If you look at the design of these amps and realize what the transducers need then you'd know just how much BS this is.  The McAllister amp is utter crap, badly made, badly designed and using what ever compoenents are the cheapest.  To be honest, he sets a new record for badly made amplifiers even putting Single Power to shame.


 


 The picture woth a thousand words - MY McAlister (returned for partial refund).


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





pabbi1 said:


> The picture woth a thousand words - MY McAlister (returned for partial refund).


 

  
   
  Looks like a "Barf Bag" for a Robot!


----------



## kevin gilmore

Sadly, 4 years later Mcallister stuff still looks that bad or worse.
   
  On those electrolytics the black plastic shield is actually important
  because the case is electrically hot, and shorts are easy when the
  things are glued down with silicone.


----------



## mrarroyo

Birgir it is very exciting, specially for those with good building skills (mine suck). I sure hope to find someone to build it for me ...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Now the best part, you can build one of these for under 500$.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 A super KGSS that's better than the Headamp version for less than $2300 would be great. But... I don't really have any interest in building it myself. Would anyone be willing to provide the service of building these?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> The 003 is pretty close in presentation to the Omega 2 (mk1) whereas the 303 and 404 are quite different. The 003 is warm and fairly forward in the midrange, has good bass that could go a bit deeper and highs that aren't emphasized and lack a little bit of extension. The speed is pretty ridiculous though and midrange tone is about as good as it gets at this price, or just about anywhere for that matter. They also offer a small but focused soundstage with good imaging, and sound very fluid. The Omega 2 is of course better in just about all respects and is much better at the frequency extremes, but tonality is similar and the overall warm, fluid, and very focused feel is pretty close, so if you like the 003 the O2 is the natural way to go.
> 
> The 303/404 has a much bigger soundstage but its imaging is more diffuse; it sounds like it's trying too hard to be spatious and loses some imaging accuracy as a result. Its mids are tilted up towards the upper midrange and lower mids are a bit lacking, which gives it a somewhat unnatural and honky tone; that's the main flaw that turns me off from these headphones. They're drier and less fluid than the 003, but they aren't dry in the absolute sense and can still be quite fluid if the source and amp are up to spec. The bass is pretty good and goes very deep, the highs are very extended if a little bit hard in the lower treble, resolution is excellent and in general these are really great headphones for ambient music - the huge soundstage really makes things sound very airy. Properly driven they can sound like Grados with soundstage, forward and punchy, but from most Stax amps they'll be a lot more laid-back.
> 
> ...


 


 I can't agree with this assessment of the 404 vs 003.  I have both, in fact two 003's and the portable version the 001Mk2 with its own amp, and while I think they are great phones and a very good bargain way to get into Stax, they lack both deep bass and treble.  As well, the sound field is constricted compared to the 404, probably due to the fact that it is an in-ear design and bypasses the external ear.  The 404 is by comparison a full-range phone which is still better, in my estimation than the other Lambdas I have had. Still the 03 is a very good starter phone with no harshness.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-signature-vs-nova-classic
   
  The 404's and some other Lambdas get some flack because of an edgy mid-range and treble.  This is somewhat source dependent, i.e. it may not be  an issuse with the right DAC or cables. Also the phones need to be properly warmed up and  I suspect sensitive to the "electret effect" aka "parasitic charge" effect in which the drivers may build up a voltage bias.  This is a general problem with electrostatics and is a better-known issue with electrets.  Things like discharging the pins when you take the phones out help.  I try to leave my phones plugged into the amps at all times even if the amp is off.
   
  However I have come to realize that the harshness is also caused by Stax' use of a thin foam backing beind the drivers.  I have removed this from my both my 404 and Lambda Signature and feel this has eliminated most such harshness as well as expanding the sound stage.
   
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I had my first experience with Stax yesterday, and I fell in love with the 007MKII (powered by the 717). I was comparing it to my D7000 and I prefer the O2 in every way--it's just far more natural and textured, and while the 30Hz region is a bit rolled-off compared to the D7000, it surprising matches the lush and full-bodied deep/punchy bass of the D7000. Other headphones I've tested where the 30Hz region is rolled-off cannot pull that off (such as the W1000X, DX1000, HD800...etc).
> 
> So now I'm planning on my very first Stax purchase (also my first electrostatic), and I've seen different opinions. Some say the MK1 has deeper bass extension (but less mid-bass and mids) than the MK2, I don't know if the MK1's deeper extension and leaner mid-bass will be able to match the D7000's lush and full bass as well as the MK2.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I have tried my 007A on my lesser Stax amps and can say you are are losing a lot of sound quality compared to, say, the Stax 717.  The sound was rather muffled with my SRM-3,  somewhat better with my SRM1Mk2 but still not on a par with the 717.  The issue seems to be the amount of volts these amps can apply to the electrostatic drivers.  Th SM3 does 300 volts, the SRM1Mk2 does 340 I believe, while the 717 does 450.  Some of the very expensive super amps for Stax go even higher. 
   
  You will hear some of the quality of the 007A with the lesser amps but I would say save my pennies for a 717.
   
  As regards the 007 Mk1 vs the 007a (aka Mk2)  I was very cautious about buying the newer A model when it came out, because of a number of negative comments versus the 007Mk1. On the other hand there has been some criticism of the Mk1 as sounding dark because of its somewhat rolled off treble.( See the discussion above of the similarity betwen the 003 and 007Mk1).   Finally I  was prepared to go for the newer model after Spritzer came up with some minor mods.  In particular I recommend flatening the spring in the ear cups.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/381975/to-tweak-or-not-to-tweak-the-stax-007a-that-is-the-question
  
   
  When I finally had a chance to directlly compare my tweaked 007A vs the original 007Mk1 I found little to chose between them.  The 007A has more uper midrange and treble.  Bass was similar, but the 007A had somewhat of a peak towards the bottom.  The criticisms of the 007A seem to have largely abated and the 007 seems to be pretty widely accepted as a worthy sucessor.   
   
  I would say get a Mk1 if it is in cood condition and significantly cheaper than an 007A.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

So you have a problem with a commercial version of an eXStatA, but no problem with a commercial version of the Birgir/KG DIY design?      Interesting...
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> This is DIY only for now but I see no problem with commercial version being built in the future unlike using the Exstata design as the basis of a commercial venture.  Whether Headamp will build it is up to Justin.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> So you have a problem with a commercial version of an eXStatA, but no problem with a commercial version of the Birgir/KG DIY design?      Interesting...


 

 If the eXStatA were to remain as a DIY design in addition to commercial, I suspect his objections would disappear.


----------



## El_Doug

Hooray!  Now you can move onto the kilovolt SS 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I'd still be more than happy to front some money for experimentation
   
  the KGSSHV sounds absolutely fantastic!  hopefully this will bring even more people into the 'stat fold  
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## kevin gilmore

I absolutely know how to do a version that runs at +/-1000 volts. 
  In fact i have a working prototype with 2100 volt parts.
  Would work great for ESL63's.
   
  Anything over +/-580   (the diaphram bias voltage) will likely damage
  the headphones as the diaphram will become negative with respect to
  the stators. Then bad things happen. Same thing if your turn up the
  volume too much on any of these amps when you have the low bias
  headphones plugged in.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Anything over +/-580   (the diaphram bias voltage) will likely damage
> the headphones as the diaphram will become negative with respect to
> the stators. Then bad things happen. Same thing if your turn up the
> volume too much on any of these amps when you have the low bias
> headphones plugged in.


 

 There is an easy solution to that, either we move onto Jecklin Floats (+1200V bias) or we design our own headphone with a 0.7-0.8mm D/S gap.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Woot, I've got a new custom title...


----------



## AppleheadMay

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Woot, I've got a new custom title...


 

 Congrats!


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> The criticisms of the 007A seem to have largely abated and the 007 seems to be pretty widely accepted as a worthy sucessor.


 

 That's good to know. The one I listened to was the 007MKII, and I loved it.
   
  As for the amp, since the 717 is discontinued, is the 727 a bad idea? I keep seeing people saying how the 717 is "far" better than the 727, but is there proof of that? The 727 doesn't seem to be available in some Asian countries anyway--most are still selling the 717 it seems. Why is that?
   
  I know people will try to recommend the Blue Hawaii or Woo amps, but I am just not ready to spend that kind of crazy money on an amp yet. This new venture into Stax headphones is already very damaging to my finances, and I'm entering it by getting the flagship model right off the bat (mostly because it's the only one I've listened to).


----------



## El_Doug

when do yall expect the KGSSHV pcb's will be ready?  I don't want to miss out on this!


----------



## perrew

Im sure there will be a LOT of buyers for the chassis group buy, Im very interested at least!
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Some parts might be a good candidates for a group buy, for instance a chassis with side mounted heatsinks, transformers and having the angle brackets (which transfer the heat from the transistors to the heatsinks) machined.  Teflon Stax sockets would also be another candidate.


----------



## AppleheadMay

How does a group buy like that work? With buyers from Europe and the US for example?
  We place a group order, all pay separately and they ship to everyone individually?
  I'd be in for whatever group buy that has to do with this amp.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> when do yall expect the KGSSHV pcb's will be ready?  I don't want to miss out on this!


 

 From what I gather, it should be reasonably soon, as it uses the existing KGSS board + a less complex version of Kevin Gilmore's T2 power supply.


----------



## El_Doug

I was under the impression that it used a new amp pcb, and not the existing kgss board, though it would be possible to use the kgss board provided the new output stage was constructed separately
  
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> From what I gather, it should be reasonably soon, as it uses the existing KGSS board + a less complex version of Kevin Gilmore's T2 power supply.


----------



## kevin gilmore

new amp board
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvamp.jpg
   
  new power supply board
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps.jpg
   
  amplifier schematic
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshv.pdf
   
  power supply schematic
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvpower.pdf
   
  forgot the bom which needs lots of work
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvbom.xlsx


----------



## TimJo

Thanks for the links!
   
  I'm going to start studying the schematics. This is very exciting news...


----------



## Zida

I need some opinions here, guys.

 I'm a complete electrostatic/stax noob. 100%. I'm pretty noob to high-end hifi gear as well.

 I recently got myself a pair of k701 and a Meier Corda Headfive amp to drive it. I was pretty happy with it for a couple of weeks until I heard the speakers in my friend's old cadillac. They sounded like something else altogether. The detail was substantial, instruments were perfectly defined and I had never heard bass that felt truer. And the drums! It was so real I felt like I was watching the drummer in front of me! We were listening to studio recordings of Phish, btw.

 Now I'm just trying to find how I can get sound like that in headphones for the least money I can. Is Stax what I'm looking for?
 Would these (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/465502/ic-stax-sr-5nb-fitz-modified-amp) be the right direction for me to head in? For reference I don't have a dedicated DAC, but I don't believe that'd make the difference for me right now.

 If I pick up those Stax I'd need to sell my rig _and_ sink in extra money 

 Thanks for your help, guys


----------



## anetode

You won't get the same sensation of bass from headphones. The way your body and mind are conditioned to respond to rhythmic low frequencies differs from the way your ear is fooled into hearing similar frequencies through headphones. What you want is decay, the K701s are very quick in the bass, which leads to them being appraised as "clinical". You're looking for "warmth". The O2 Staxen are warm, but you might be better of trying something like the Sennheiser HD650 first.


----------



## Zida

Thanks. I've never really understood the terms used to describe bass. I'd have certainly never assumed "decay" was what i wanted, but the more you know.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bass was definitely a part of what wowed me about his speakers, but I think i should emphasize the clarity and impact of all the instruments. Maybe I need to consider a DAC. I can't even hear the difference between mid-high end mp3 and flac with my stock laptop soundcard.

 I feel like I just intruded on the stax community, sorry


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





zida said:


> Thanks. I've never really understood the terms used to describe bass. I'd have certainly never assumed "decay" was what i wanted, but the more you know..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  I agree I wouldn't use the term "decay" here unless it is defined in some  way other than what it seems to mean. 
   
   
  I agree about the HD 650, it sounds like the speakers in an old Cadillac.


----------



## Zida

You almost make it sound like you don't like them 

 I should clarify by "old" I mean late 90's, not a restored actually old one.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





zida said:


> Thanks. I've never really understood the terms used to describe bass. I'd have certainly never assumed "decay" was what i wanted, but the more you know..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Get Denon D5000 or D7000s, the most common description is they are like strapping a Stereo System to your head.  Ohh, and don't go to the STAX thread talking about saving money on something, that does not Compute here!


  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I agree I wouldn't use the term "decay" here unless it is defined in some  way other than what it seems to mean.
> 
> 
> *I agree about the HD 650, it sounds like the speakers in an old Cadillac.*


 
   
  Outstanding!!  I couldn't concur more...


----------



## El_Doug

Is the BHSE not +/- 750? 
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Anything over +/-580   (the diaphram bias voltage) will likely damage
> the headphones as the diaphram will become negative with respect to
> the stators. Then bad things happen. Same thing if your turn up the
> volume too much on any of these amps when you have the low bias
> headphones plugged in.


----------



## Zida

My mistake 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





les_garten said:


> Ohh, and don't go to the STAX thread talking about saving money on something, that does not Compute here!


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote:  





> Also the phones need to be properly warmed up and  I suspect sensitive to the "electret effect" aka "parasitic charge" effect in which the drivers may build up a voltage bias.  This is a general problem with electrostatics and is a better-known issue with electrets.  Things like discharging the pins when you take the phones out help.  I try to leave my phones plugged into the amps at all times even if the amp is off.


 
   
  So you're saying that discharging the phones by touching the pins helps but on the other hand you leave the phones connected to the amp all the time. Does this mean you are not using your own advice? Seems like a contradiction to me. I'm unplugging the phones every time I finish listening for that day and I'm shorting the pins, and I would like to know if this is considered the best thing to do or not.
   
  Regarding warming up the phones, have you tested if it's not solely the amp but also the phones? While my hearing seems discernible enough, my audio memory is not that great so finding out for myself would require some effort that I'm not quite ready to put up at the moment.
   
  My honest respects to the two "Senor Stax" gentlemen who are bringing wonderful news to the stats' fans table!


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Is the BHSE not +/- 750?


 

 Nope.   +/-400    no way a 6ca7 can handle 1500 volts.
   
  As far as leaving the headphones plugged into an amp that is turned off, unless
  you have the always on bias circuit, the headphones will slowly drain thru the
  5 meg charging resistor as the rest of the circuit will be close to zero after a
  few minutes of being off.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I agree I wouldn't use the term "decay" here unless it is defined in some  way other than what it seems to mean.
> 
> 
> I agree about the HD 650, it sounds like the speakers in an old Cadillac.


 

 Yeah, using that term was probably the wrong thing to do. What I was referring to is sometimes also described on head-fi as "speed", which I presume refers to the type of response seen on spectral decay waterfall graphs.
   
  And there's something to be said for rolling around in an old caddy


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





don quichotte said:


> So you're saying that discharging the phones by touching the pins helps but on the other hand you leave the phones connected to the amp all the time. Does this mean you are not using your own advice? Seems like a contradiction to me. I'm unplugging the phones every time I finish listening for that day and I'm shorting the pins, and I would like to know if this is considered the best thing to do or not.
> 
> Regarding warming up the phones, have you tested if it's not solely the amp but also the phones? While my hearing seems discernible enough, my audio memory is not that great so finding out for myself would require some effort that I'm not quite ready to put up at the moment.
> 
> My honest respects to the two "Senor Stax" gentlemen who are bringing wonderful news to the stats' fans table!


 
  My preference is to leave the phones in their sockets.  This will depend on just what I am doing with them though.  I tend to use the same phone in the same amp day by day, a 707A in a 717 amp,  a Sigma/404 in an SRM1Mk2, a 404 in an SRM3 and a Signature or Sigma Pro in another SRM1Mk2..  If I am changing phones I usually do not want an extra phone still plugged in so I take it out and discharge it. 



  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Nope.   +/-400    no way a 6ca7 can handle 1500 volts.
> 
> As far as leaving the headphones plugged into an amp that is turned off, unless
> you have the always on bias circuit, the headphones will slowly drain thru the
> ...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Yeah, using that term was probably the wrong thing to do. What I was referring to is sometimes also described on head-fi as "speed", which I presume refers to the type of response seen on spectral decay waterfall graphs.
> 
> And there's something to be said for rolling around in an old caddy


 


 I think I see now.  I would think "speed" is the same as "attack"  which is about how quickly a transducer responds to an input signal.  You sometimes see graphs showing how the transducer responds to a square wave.  The ideal being square wave in, square wave out.  I would assume that if there is little decay in the waterfall graphs this is consistent with fast attack so in that sense speed and decay may be the same.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Does this mean that leaving the phones in is  much the same as taking the phones out and shorting the pins?


 
   
   
  Yes it does


----------



## 98664c3yijh

hi gang!
   
  since the BH has been mentioned,  i've been thinking of
  building one for my own use.
  in the light of the commercial product, is DIY'ing BH still permitted?
  Kevin?
  if so, would appreciate pointing me to threads discussing the
  DIY construction. sorry for boring you with that but
  the forms search just outputs thousands of therads...
  Is there a DIY version with less unobtainable
  HV transistors?
   
  thanks!!


----------



## kevin gilmore

diy's of the BH definitely permitted.
   
  boards may still be available in the group buy thread, i have not been
  paying attention.
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/442065/group-buy-blue-hawaii-pcbs-and-jacks
   
  generally the idea is to replace the 2sk389 with either lsk389's or matched 2sk170's
  and to replace the pnp current sources with the 10m90s ixys current source parts.
   
  i've never really done a howto for doing the assembly of these things, i'm expecting
  people to figure out that on their own. Although there are and will be lots of pictures
  of the new stuff. (T2, KGSSHV,KGITSOJC...)
   
  In fact anyone can make boards for any of my designs. I just don't want another
  occurance of the trevornetwork disaster.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> diy's of the BH definitely permitted.
> 
> boards may still be available in the group buy thread, i have not been
> paying attention.
> ...


 
   
  kevin, thank you!
  pcb is not a problem, i can order them locally at a fair price.
  please excuse my moronity, but
  is there any updated schematics of the amp/PSU available, incorporating the
  changes you mention? (i have moderate experience with tubes,
  including transmitting ones, but no exp. with sand )
  do i understand correctly that the power supply shown here
  http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore4_prj.htm
  is common for both channels?
  thanks!!


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is no updated schematic for the BH.  One of these days.
  Maybe after i finally finish the electrostatic portable.
   
  The old power supply definitely works great.
  But these days i would use the kgsshv supply with 2 resistors
  changed to lower the voltage to +/-400. You could probably push
  it to +/-425 but the limiting factor is the 900 volt current source.
   
  The one power supply runs both channels.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

thank you kevin!
   
  to all BH DIYers out there: is there
  a compendium of knowledge on how to build the
  beast?
   
  thanks!


----------



## J-Pak

Excellent an electrostatic portable, this is why I love being an Omega 2 owner


----------



## LeonWho

I just got my first electrostatic setup!
   
  It's a Stax SR-Lambda Pro with a Stax SRM-1 MKII.
   
  However, I have a problem.
   
  Every time there's bass, the left side of the Lambda Pro emits a heavily distorted rumble. The right side of the Lambda Pro is unaffected, and all other frequencies come through perfectly on both sides.
   
  What's going on? Is there a way to fix this?
   
  Thanks,
  Leon


----------



## Henerenry

Try shorting the pins with your finger, then try leaving them plugged in and the amp on for a while...
   
  Most likely though the driver may be on the fritz...


----------



## LeonWho

Quote: 





henerenry said:


> Try shorting the pins with your finger, then try leaving them plugged in and the amp on for a while...
> 
> Most likely though the driver may be on the fritz...


 

 Hmm, I've discharged and recharged the headphones several times already. Looks like I'll need a new pair of Stax headphones. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Any other ways to fix them?


----------



## edstrelow

Are you sure it's the phones and not the amp?  You need either another Stax phones or amp to properly figure this out. It's even possible there is a problem with the connectors in the ear cup or the cable. 
   
  I would take the drivers out and visually compare the good one vs the bad one to see if the bad one is damaged, possibly with a hole or even with dirt between a stator and the membrane.  
   
  If it's an uncorrectible driver problem you probably want 2 replacements from Yamasinc.  An e-mail will usually get their response. They don't pick up the phone.  You will probably get a newer model driver.


----------



## Henerenry

Hmmm, as mentioned on the other site, it could be as simple as the glue on one of the drivers coming unstuck.
   
  Might pay to open them as edstrelow suggests.
   
  One other thing you might want to try is to switch the left and right inputs on your amp, it will help determine if its the headphones or the amp.
   
  For the record I had a pair that had similar symptons to yours although noticably one channel was quitier than the other, turned one of my drivers did die.
   
  Hopefully all works well.


----------



## gilency

My Sigma Pro leather headband is very stretched and needs to be replaced. Can I use the same as the Lambda models? any of them? If not, any ideas? Both ends are overly stretched and getting pretty thin.


----------



## GreenLeo

We may assume that the KGSSHV should outperform the KGSS right?  May we assume that the KGSSHV will be on a par with the BH?


----------



## kevin gilmore

you can assume anything you want 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  there will be BHSE's and the T2 at CJ.
   
  you are going to have to wait a while to hear the KGSSHV
   
  likely next year at CJ.
  probably earlier.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Is BHSE schematics publicly available for DIYers too?
  It seems to use less sand as the current source.
  Thanks!


----------



## spritzer

You have to figure out the new CCS on your own which really isn't that hard to do.  If you fail to do so then I'd really advise against working on the BH.  Short of the T2 it is the most complicated amp out there and if you do something wrong you could end up with a very expensive lump of charred parts.  Some of my boards went to DIY'ers all over the world which had blown up their amps. 
  
  Quote: 





gilency said:


> My Sigma Pro leather headband is very stretched and needs to be replaced. Can I use the same as the Lambda models? any of them? If not, any ideas? Both ends are overly stretched and getting pretty thin.


 

 All of the Stax suspended headbands (bar the SR-007/4070) are the same and can be swapped easily.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Maestro, the best CCS I know is a choke of a size of a fridge!!! All the rest is a magic to me.
  Just wanted to do something in a kit-style manner, without investing too much time.
  Have no experience in sand, esp HV sand, but managed some time ago to design and construct a 872A bridge, 
  supplying 1.5kV to a 304tl (and 866A FW supplying 1kV to GM70). But that was not on a PCB as you
  can imagine  I've seen your earlier post advertising against Kevin's published DIY board as being prone
  to fireworks. May I ask what's wrong with them? Is a special laminate + soldermask needed??
  Have been thinking of a standard 2mm FR4, 70um Cu...
   
  Thanks!


----------



## kevin gilmore

I have 2 original BH's, and they have thousands of hours on them.
  Never any trouble. Not in a high moisture area, and in a no smoking
  house.
   
  Tobacco really does a number on high voltage things.


----------



## kwkarth

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I have 2 original BH's, and they have thousands of hours on them.
> Never any trouble. Not in a high moisture area, and in a no smoking
> house.
> 
> Tobacco really does a number on high voltage things.


 
  Tar is bad for the wet lands and lungs too.


----------



## gilency

http://ferrstein.com/headphones.htm
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All of the Stax suspended headbands (bar the SR-007/4070) are the same and can be swapped easily.


 

 Ferrstein mentions the original headband uses a small metal pin and a metal receiver that is glued into the sides of the earspeaker enclosure and ... that the new headband pin is all plastic and thicker, thus it does not fit the Sigma holes. Apparently removing the metal receivers/holes from the Lambdas is relatively easy (but not with the Sigma) if the head band is replaced with the newer 303 system.
   
  Did you mean the old Lambdas only? Audiocubes 2 sells the replacement headband for Lambda Nova Classic at $129.99. Would those work?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





gilency said:


> http://ferrstein.com/headphones.htm
> 
> 
> Ferrstein mentions the original headband uses a small metal pin and a metal receiver that is glued into the sides of the earspeaker enclosure and ... that the new headband pin is all plastic and thicker, thus it does not fit the Sigma holes. Apparently removing the metal receivers/holes from the Lambdas is relatively easy (but not with the Sigma) if the head band is replaced with the newer 303 system.
> ...


 

 Take a pic and send me a link via PM.  I have a crap load of headbands and arcs, but very few of the slider pieces.  I probably have a headband I can sell you for far less than the $129 for a replacement headband assembly.  I just need to see what you need as I'm not a Stax expert like the Senors are...


----------



## spritzer

Since I finished this yesterday, a modified Stax SRM-Xh amp which now has the same rail voltages as the Exstata and can accept a balanced input signal.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Fully discrete, fully DC-coupled and fully balanced, just how I like it:
   




   
  Some really high end kit in there, a 4-gang TKD 601 pot, Cardas RCA's, Lemo balanced connector and the nicest caps I could find.  The balanced cable had to be custom made since a 5pin Lemo isn't exactly a common balanced connector... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> May I ask what's wrong with them? Is a special laminate + soldermask needed??
> Have been thinking of a standard 2mm FR4, 70um Cu...
> 
> Thanks!


 

 Nothing major really, just the main power rails are a bit close to some of the board supports and with metal spacers you can have a short.  I use nylon and zero issues with hundreds of hours on my unit. 

  
  Quote: 





gilency said:


> http://ferrstein.com/headphones.htm
> 
> 
> Ferrstein mentions the original headband uses a small metal pin and a metal receiver that is glued into the sides of the earspeaker enclosure and ... that the new headband pin is all plastic and thicker, thus it does not fit the Sigma holes. Apparently removing the metal receivers/holes from the Lambdas is relatively easy (but not with the Sigma) if the head band is replaced with the newer 303 system.
> ...


 
   
  If it is only the cloth material on your set which is failing then you can just remove that bit, no need to replace the whole arc assembly.  If you look at the sliding bit with the Lambda logo, on the inside there are two screws and the the assembly falls apart.  Be careful to do this over some container as there are small parts in there which like to get lost (a small plate, a spring and do note the orientation of the plastic friction plate which holds up the headband).


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If it is only the cloth material on your set which is failing then you can just remove that bit, no need to replace the whole arc assembly.  If you look at the sliding bit with the Lambda logo, on the inside there are two screws and the the assembly falls apart.  Be careful to do this over some container as there are small parts in there which like to get lost (a small plate, a spring and do note the orientation of the plastic friction plate which holds up the headband).


 

 Thank you.  BoilermakerFan is checking if he has any spare parts. I dissasembled the head band per your instructions. The cloth maerial is literally desintegrating at its insertion sides.
  As far as the amp, it looks pretty cool!


----------



## spritzer

If he doesn't have any spare headbands then I should have a spare SR-303 part here.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Thank you.  BoilermakerFan is checking if he has any spare parts. I dissasembled the head band per your instructions. The cloth maerial is literally desintegrating at its insertion sides.
> As far as the amp, it looks pretty cool!


 
   
  Oh, I definitely have the headstraps.  Well over ten of them ATM.
   
  Arcs, I have tons of the light colored Novas, and probably ten of the 303 arcs.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

thanks kevin and spritzer! if i find 2sa1968 at reasonable price
  will try BH (with perhaps minor mods in PSU)


----------



## gilency

Thank you Spritzer and BoilermakerFan. I would not mind the headband and 303 arcs if they fit the Sigma Pro.


----------



## momomo6789

got 007A black pads today so good not even hot anymore but they keep trying to take a dive off my head


----------



## dyna10x

Hi Stax Gurus
  I have developed a problem with the left driver of a lambda pro.
  There seems to be reduced volume at times which reverts back to normal if I push on the back of the outer cover of the driver or shake my head when listening.
  There seems to be a persistant very low volume squeal coming from the driver most of the time when it has normal volume.
  I have opened up the drivers to check the wire connections and they all seem good and there does not appear to be any damage or anything out of the ordinary with the driver (the back side only as it appears that I would have to fully remove the earpads to look at front side of the driver)
  Does anyone have experience with this type of problem and suggestions for further DIY diagnosis and repair?
  Any help would be much appreciated as I am on a tight budget and I love listening to my music.
  Thanks


----------



## mrarroyo

Kevin and Birgir thanks for the work you are all doing, helps the hobby move along to new highs. Cheers.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





dyna10x said:


> Hi Stax Gurus
> I have developed a problem with the left driver of a lambda pro.
> There seems to be reduced volume at times which reverts back to normal if I push on the back of the outer cover of the driver or shake my head when listening.
> There seems to be a persistant very low volume squeal coming from the driver most of the time when it has normal volume.
> ...


 


 A squeal probably means a short, not necessarily in the drivers but possibly so.   I think you have to get past the earpads to have a proper inspection.


----------



## gilency

I finally agree with Spritzer that the NB Sigma sounds better than the Pro.
  Strings and voices sound beautiful, from Bach to Kiri.
  Very happy to have both, but liking the normal bias more.
  BTW, does anybody have a NB extension cable lying around they would like to sell?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I finally agree with Spritzer that the NB Sigma sounds better than the Pro.
> Strings and voices sound beautiful, from Bach to Kiri.
> Very happy to have both, but liking the normal bias more.
> BTW, does anybody have a NB extension cable lying around they would like to sell?


 


 The original Sigma is a classic, still a worthy phone to have around.  I would compare it to the original Quad speakers, later models have tried to improve on them but the original design had so much merit that people still love them just as they are. 
   
  I have three different Sigmas, the normal, low bias, the Sigma Pro and Sigma/404  and don't listen to the low bias one much.  But every time I put them on I  keep thinking "these are a lot better than I remembered."  Sometimes what I hear is bit more sweetness to the sound. 
   
  But on balance I still prefer the high bias phones.http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/464873/stax-sigmas-compared-low-bias-sigma-pro-and-sigma-404   I made my comparions with dual bias headphone amps.  I see you have a transformer, possibly this changes the sound.
   
  Certainly there is more audible ambience with low bias, but I don't think  this is  necessarily accurate.  Having used the dBx dynamic range companders for many years, I can say that any time you compress the dynamics you will probably hear more ambience.  The dBx manuals even pointed this out.  So part of what you get with low bias is more dynamics compared to a comparable high bias phone, which may be good or bad depending on the music.  One day I would like  to get my hands on the original low bias Lambda to see if you can hear this compression/ambience trade-off with these phones.
   
  .


----------



## John Buchanan

Got to agree with Ed. It sounds like the sound preference for these sets is (best to worst):
  Sigma/404>NB Sigma>Sigma Pro. I have never heard the Sigma Pro however.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Got to agree with Ed. It sounds like the sound preference for these sets is (best to worst):
> Sigma/404>NB Sigma>Sigma Pro. I have never heard the Sigma Pro however.


 


 I am not quite saying that.
   
  Rather the NB Sigma is just a great phone and stands on its own as a high quality item.   When I sent my last of 2 NB Sigmas for conversion to a Sigma/404,  I immediately located another NB Sigma since I did not want to be without one.
   
  It has a sufficiently good frequency range and dynamic capability to be a good general phone, it has an interesting sound signature which enhances many kinds of music and of course it has what I think is an enhanced spatial realism due to the pre-aural driver placement.  Since only the Sigmas and the AKG K1000 have anything like this it is a rare item and once you have the taste  for this type of sound you may very well find yourself dissatisfied with conventional phones, even electrostatics like the 007.  I certainly understand  why you might sell your 007's and keep the Sigmas and some diffuse-field equalized Lambdas.
   
  Like just about every phone/speaker/whatever  there is some music that will sound better on it than anything else and some people who will like its sound better than anything else.  As an example, when I was at the Canjam LA last year I had the Sigma pro and Sigma/404 hooked up together to my Stax 717 amp.  Most people preferred the Sigma/404 but one listener said the pro had a better midrange for bringing out vocals.  That was probably true because it also had less bass and treble than the Sigma/404 so if you are looking just for midrange and care less about bass and treble the pro is the way to go.   
   
  The NB Sigma is kind of like that too:  Somewhat lacking in deep bass,  rolled off at the top ( but not as bad as the SRM001), but still has a great kick in the bass which makes it a good rock phone.  Its bass boom also seems to bring out the ambience. And I think it  also has  a sweeter sound, possibly due to the low bias operation, or possibly due to the treble roll-off which filters out harshness in the  upper frequencies from cartridge mistracking or digital distortion. .


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I have three different Sigmas, the normal, low bias and Sigma/404  and don't listen to the low bias one much.  But every time I put them on I  keep thinking "these are a lot better than I remembered."  Sometimes what I hear is bit more sweetness to the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> .


 
  what is the difference between normal, and low bias?  I though the normal Was the low bias.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> what is the difference between normal, and low bias?  I though the normal Was the low bias.


 


 You are correct. That was a typo, now corrected.  I was trying to say "normal, low bias, Sigma Pro and Sigma/404"


----------



## jaycalgary

Karlson Stax? Pretty happy I will have Sigma pros soon even though the reviewers speak poorly about them since there is such thing as the Sigma/404. It got me thinking of an old design
  for speakers "Karlson Speakers" info and images are on google. I remember years ago just for fun making a TQWP  speaker with just an old ghetto blaster speaker and then added the Karlson
  "V" shaped angled box in front. It made unbelivable bass for the size of it. Today just to see how it would sound I cut a pieces of cardboard to the size that would fit in the pads of my Lambda Sigs.
  with the Karlson "V' shape cut out. Very raw but gave me an idea how the Lambdas would sound. The Bass had more impact and there was more depth. Do you think this would be a bad Idea
  for a design?


----------



## gilency

I really think you will like your Sigma Pro. I certainly enjoy mine.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The Sigma Pro have ever so slightly better mids than the Sigma404 in my opinion.  I owned your Sigma Pro for a couple years, so I've heard it a few times.  The Sigma404 sounds nice but I wonder what other Pro bias Lambda drivers would sound like in the Sigma housing.  LNSigma, Sigma404LIMITED, what hasn't been done yet?  Would an Airbow mated with a Sigma be a Sigbow or an AirSigma?


----------



## dyna10x

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> A squeal probably means a short, not necessarily in the drivers but possibly so.   I think you have to get past the earpads to have a proper inspection.


 


 Thanks edstrelow for the advice.
   I did a search of the thread and found a reference you made to discovering a short from the bias electrode along the outside of the insulation of one of the other wires in a Koss stat phone.
  Perhaps this is the problem with my Lambda pro as the wire from the right electrode touches the middle thicker rounded electrode on its pathway to the strain relief (I assume that the middle electrode is the bias voltage connection?). Could it be a source of a short similar to the one you discovered?
  Besides this does anyone have an idea why the volume returns to normal by pressing on the back cover of the driver (doesnt need much pressure) or a quick shake of the head?
  Any ideas will be greatly appreciated


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





dyna10x said:


> Thanks edstrelow for the advice.
> I did a search of the thread and found a reference you made to discovering a short from the bias electrode along the outside of the insulation of one of the other wires in a Koss stat phone.
> Perhaps this is the problem with my Lambda pro as the wire from the right electrode touches the middle thicker rounded electrode on its pathway to the strain relief (I assume that the middle electrode is the bias voltage connection?). Could it be a source of a short similar to the one you discovered?
> Besides this does anyone have an idea why the volume returns to normal by pressing on the back cover of the driver (doesnt need much pressure) or a quick shake of the head?
> Any ideas will be greatly appreciated


 


 I am not quite sure what you are seeing with the bias electrode, is it the actual wire or just the outer plastic touching?  If it is  the wire, it sounds like a possible short.  It would seem that you need some kind of repair to get the bias cable away from other cables. 
   
  If the bias is shorting that might explain the lowered volume, as it shorts, you may be lowering the bias voltage and presumably the volume would then drop. The head shake could cause the bias cable move away so it no longer shorts.
   
  There may be other explanations but at least this is simple and consistent.
   
   
  BTW when I had the problem with my Koss 950 phones, I could actually see the short in the dark because there was a trail of sparks running from an electrode on the driver down the outside sheath of the cable.  The fix was to pull the cables away from the electrodes enough to create a bigger air space.


----------



## DaveBSC

I'm considering buying an SRM-1 MK2 C series that is a 100V amp but has been used, supposedly without issue, on 120V US power. The price is good but how concerned should I be about wear on the transformer, caps, regulators, etc?
   
  Is it true that a step up/step down transformer ruins the sound quality?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Definitely NOT a good idea to run a 100V amp on 120V.
  The power supply voltages would be 20% high, and might
  be at the absolute limit of the power supply caps.
   
  Depending on age, its simple to re-jumper for 120V.


----------



## dyna10x

I got c series srm1/mk2 without the voltage selector plug. It wassoldered together inside. Spritzer kindly gave me instructions for correct connections for 100 117 240 v but not for 120 which is what you need. The info is in this thread for 120 so if you need it you could search or some kind stax guru can tell you. It is not a difficult job to do


----------



## DaveBSC

I'm just going to get an A series that's universal voltage instead. This amp is really just temporary until the new KGSS-HVs are available, so I'm not that bothered if the C series sounds a bit better.


----------



## jaycalgary

I found out a couple days ago that my SRM/1 MK/2 has a balance in the volume. It just was not as obvious to see as some of the other Stax amps. It quickly solved my balance problems. Maybe it was also dirty because just adjusting made the sound better. I just play a bass note type song and adjust so it sounds centered and it has not been a lot to adjust. Before this I went as as removing the ear pads unsoldering and switching the sides the drivers are on. This is a pair of Lambda Sig that was neglected and suffered damage to the driver when it was shipped to me. Now it seems to be the best I have heard so far.


----------



## John Buchanan

Even Absolute Sound when it reviewed the same amplifier didn't realise that there were two concentric volume controls on that amplifier. Don't feel too bad you missed 'em.


----------



## gilency

Spritzer. I wonder if somebody could post pics of your SR-007 Mk2 surgery/mod you will be performing at CJ.
  That would be very helpful.
  Wish I could be there but my son graduates from HS tomorrow/weekend.
  Good luck to all of you who will be there!


----------



## HONEYBOY

So after auditioning all the headphones imaginable whilst in Japan last week. The stax headphones reproduced the music in a manner that was very much to my liking. There was a natural sense of relaxed detailing, purity and transient response that just couldn't be replicated by most of the dynamic cans there. I won't go in to how the Omegas separated themselves from the others but undoubtedly the basic system (SRS 2050) is a remarkable value. I was just lost in the music with this phone. I am very certain that I preferred them to the more expensive SRS 3050 and 4040 systems! Even though they were less expensive in Japan I didn't purchase them there. I decided I'll purchase them at the Stax dealership in Taiwan because if anything were to happen to the phones I really didn't want to have to ship them back to Japan by myself.
   
  So yesterday, I even skipped school! (not so uncommon haha) and went to purchase the SRS 2050 system, only to find out that they were all *sold out*. I was told that they will be replaced with a new model being imported from Japan next month. Does any of you guys know about this? I can still purchase the SRS 2050 from SEYO for about 500 bucks shipped and that is a price I feel comfortable paying for what that system has to offer. My hunch is that these newer models are going to be more expensive. So do you guys think I should *wait*? Need wise counseling.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Spritzer. I wonder if somebody could post pics of your SR-007 Mk2 surgery/mod you will be performing at CJ.
> That would be very helpful.


 

 x2
   
  Not that i'd be able to reproduce it (not any time soon or within this decade) but I'd like to see what was done in case I have a nice chunk of extra money and itchy hands


----------



## Cya|\|

Quote: 





honeyboy said:


> So after auditioning all the headphones imaginable whilst in Japan last week. The stax headphones reproduced the music in a manner that was very much to my liking. There was a natural sense of relaxed detailing, purity and transient response that just couldn't be replicated by most of the dynamic cans there. I won't go in to how the Omegas separated themselves from the others but undoubtedly the basic system (SRS 2050) is a remarkable value. I was just lost in the music with this phone. I am very certain that I preferred them to the more expensive SRS 3050 and 4040 systems! Even though they were less expensive in Japan I didn't purchase them there. I decided I'll purchase them at the Stax dealership in Taiwan because if anything were to happen to the phones I really didn't want to have to ship them back to Japan by myself.
> 
> So yesterday, I even skipped school! (not so uncommon haha) and went to purchase the SRS 2050 system, only to find out that they were all *sold out*. I was told that they will be replaced with a new model being imported from Japan next month. Does any of you guys know about this? I can still purchase the SRS 2050 from SEYO for about 500 bucks shipped and that is a price I feel comfortable paying for what that system has to offer. My hunch is that these newer models are going to be more expensive. So do you guys think I should *wait*? Need wise counseling.


 
   
  What made u prefer the 202 over the 303 and 404?
  Was the 2050 system loud enough with low distortion (i guess it has the 252 amp right?)?
  Where did you find the lowest price?


----------



## HONEYBOY

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> What made u prefer the 202 over the 303 and 404?
> Was the 2050 system loud enough with low distortion (i guess it has the 252 amp right?)?
> Where did you find the lowest price?


 
  For me it, it's just that I preffered the midrange on the SRS 2050. The others may have been perhaps more detailed but to my ears not as natural sounding. I didn't really get enough time to check distortion levels on such a cursory audition but the details are very intelligible even at low volumes which I generally prefer to listen at. The mids can be a bit lacking in body at times though. At Yodobashi they were about 40-45000 yen.I've seen them on a few Japanese websites for 39600 yen. I think the best place to buy them online would be at SEYO for $482 + shipping.


----------



## Cya|\|

Quote:Originally Posted by *HONEYBOY* 


  The mids can be a bit lacking in body at times though.
  
  was this true for the 303 and 404 too?


----------



## gilency

Honeboy, I have not heard anything about a new 202 model coming up. Somebody mentioned about a replacement for the SR001 Mk2 while back abut I don't know if its all rumors or not.


----------



## KrypticMind

Quote:


gilency said:


> Spritzer. I wonder if somebody could post pics of your SR-007 Mk2 surgery/mod you will be performing at CJ.
> That would be very helpful.
> Wish I could be there but my son graduates from HS tomorrow/weekend.
> Good luck to all of you who will be there!


 

 Just pics? I think someone should make a movie out of it! If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video must be much, much more.


----------



## spritzer

My SR-007Mk2 didn't make it here so I won't be performing any mods at CJ.  KG even took his Mk1 away from me yesterday claiming it didn't need a tune up.  Could have been due to me being far from sober though...


----------



## Clarkmc2

Mine will be there tomorrow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Clark


----------



## padam

This could be an upcoming Stax amp, replacing the 323.
http://termin.tumblr.com/post/255415438/stax-srm-353s-hpfes-on-twitpic


----------



## Lance6881888

Very interesting, really is!


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





padam said:


> This could be an upcoming Stax amp, replacing the 323.
> http://termin.tumblr.com/post/255415438/stax-srm-353s-hpfes-on-twitpic


 

 I was browsing the CanJam impressions thread and Skylab uploaded this pic. He called it the new "WOO Electrostatic Headphones "Energizer"".


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I was browsing the CanJam impressions thread and Skylab uploaded this pic. He called it the new "WOO Electrostatic Headphones "Energizer"".


 
  It is in the new products at CJ thread also...


----------



## tigermilk

Quote: 





cya|\| said:


> What made u prefer the 202 over the 303 and 404?
> Was the 2050 system loud enough with low distortion (i guess it has the 252 amp right?)?
> Where did you find the lowest price?


 

 FYI, when I first heard the 2050, 3030, and 4040 systems I likewise preferred the 2050.  No doubt honeyboy was listening to the same gear at Yodobashi as I was.  That said, I've got an older 4040 system I picked up used as well as as 252 amp with the 003 phones when I was in Tokyo in April.  Nice balance between the 2 setups.  The 4040 system seems more laid back to me whereas the 252 with its solid state amp gives those 003s a real punch.


----------



## Dr No

Does anyone have any input regarding the DAC in the HEV90 amplifier? I cannot find anything about it, what kind of converter, sound etc. Does anyone have the Stereophile review from ´94?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Its a SAA 7323 bitstream dac.
   
  Most people consider it to sound awful.


----------



## spritzer

I do have the Stereophile review and I can post pics of it when I get back home.


----------



## GreenLeo

Any news for the KGSSHV?  Thanks.


----------



## Currawong

Everyone has probably been too busy at Canjam for anything to have been updated.  I think it just requires boards (and a Mouser project for idiots like me).


----------



## Dr No

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Its a SAA 7323 bitstream dac.
> 
> Most people consider it to sound awful.


 

 Thanks for the info.But has anyone any real impressions compared to other DACs?

  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I do have the Stereophile review and I can post pics of it when I get back home.


 
   
  That would be great, thank you!


----------



## milezone

Hello friends and foes,
   
  I'm contemplating purchasing a pair of O2 MKI's, and am hoping you could help answer a couple questions. Are there any differences between the O2 MKI's and the O2 MKI BL's besides the color of the leather? Also I remember reading that there is a USA model of the MKI (perhaps the same as the BL model), are they technically the same as the Japan model?


----------



## spritzer

No real progress on the HV except we were working on the boards at CJ, or rather Kevin was, I was busy drinking...


----------



## kevin gilmore

Yep i was working on the circuit board adding a few finishing touches while at CJ.
  Remote desktop into my real machine is a beautiful thing.
   
  Need to send it off to a few people with the schematic to verify that i did not do
  something stupid, and verify with spritzer the other two pots and exact dimensions.
  Otherwise its ready to go.
   
  Same thing with the power supply.
   
  I was pretty busy drinking too. 3 days later and still groggy.


----------



## transient orca

I think I got bitten by the Stax bug.
   
  First of all, the world of Stax is weird. Everybody in know is going after the old and few like the new.
   
  My first experience with stax was at a local meet in January. There were 5-6 different amps and as many headphones. I loved most of them. It's a pity I didn't really take notes on which combination I like most. I remember liking the 202 and one of the older lambdas, hated the etch in the 404, and love one of the tube amps. Of course short listening session can't tell me anything definitive. I just decided that I can never afford them and no point getting a stax if one doesn't have a good source.
   
  Recently I started to invest in my source, and my imagination was inflated by a tax refund check. The siren like voice of stax started to enter my dreams, but after a few agonizing days in the FS forums, I reluctantly decide to wait a while longer. I have no experience buying vintage gear and can't afford to take risk right now. Even if I am lucky enough to find something nice. A decent system like a good condition SRM-T1 and Lambda Nova Signature pairing is going to be around $1000 and the hard truth is that I still can't afford that. I can't handle the trouble of constant buying and selling and slowly build up a rig,  so I need a to start with a good system and stick with it for a while. Nonetheless, the dream is here to stay. I will try to get some more stax experience and one day... one day I will reach the stax oasis.
   
  By the way, Does anybody know about the SR-404 MK2? According to Headfonia, it's the upcoming stax headphone based on the 404 LE.


----------



## DaveBSC

The STAX bug got me after I basically gave up on finding a dynamic that didn't disappoint me in some way. The O2 Mk1 just seems to hit it all. That said, I haven't heard a balanced T1, or the HE-5LE/HE-6 or the LCD-2. It's possible that the planars in particular might be able to match STAX.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I think I got bitten by the Stax bug.
> 
> First of all, the world of Stax is weird. Everybody in know is going after the old and few like the new.
> 
> ...


 


 I would suggest something like a Lambda Signature and SRM1Mk2 amp.  Prices have been low of late and you might get one for about $600.  One of the reasons I feel that some older Lambdas sound good is that the foam behind the drivers has deteriorated to the point that it is barely there at all.  I found this out with a Signature I bought.  When I replaced the foam it sounded like crap s I took the new foam out and sold it to someone who needed to replace the front foam.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas
   
   
   I have since removed the back foam from my 404 and find it a much nicer phone that way.  Even before this I still found it better than some other Lambdas.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-signature-vs-nova-classic
   
  I have seen a number of pretty superficial observations about the differences between various Lambdas, where people have had only cursory listening experience to some phones.  I had hoped that there would be more full comparisons between the dozen or so Lambda models out there but this is not happening much.  I guess most people don't have more than one Lambda.


----------



## mattcalf

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Otherwise its ready to go.


 

 I'm getting excited! 
   
  I take it the transistors will need to be closely matched?


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I would suggest something like a Lambda Signature and SRM1Mk2 amp.  Prices have been low of late and you might get one for about $600.  One of the reasons I feel that some older Lambdas sound good is that the foam behind the drivers has deteriorated to the point that it is barely there at all.  I found this out with a Signature I bought.  When I replaced the foam it sounded like crap s I took the new foam out and sold it to someone who needed to replace the front foam.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for sharing your insight. i have a question about stax amps. Different amps have different maximum output voltage. Fro example, SRM-1 MK2 is 370V and SRM-T1 is 300V. Is higher always better?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Thanks for sharing your insight. i have a question about stax amps. Different amps have different maximum output voltage. Fro example, SRM-1 MK2 is 370V and SRM-T1 is 300V. Is higher always better?


 

 All other things being equal, yes.  It should give more dynamics and detail.
   
  The Lambda needs this somewhat less than a Sigma or an 007 though.
   
  The Lambda is a very interesting design and I sure hope that some day Stax comes up with a new driver for them somewhat like the 007.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


transient orca said:


> By the way, Does anybody know about the SR-404 MK2? According to Headfonia, it's the upcoming stax headphone based on the 404 LE.


   

 That's what a German dealer told me too. According to him, the SR-404 Mk2 sounds indistinguishable from the SR-404LE. He offered it to me when I was trying to buy one of the last SR-404LEs. Unfortunately, those were all sold out, and that's why he offered me the SR-404 Mk2 instead. I didn't buy it, because I had an opportunity to buy a SR-007BL, which is what I went for.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> transient orca said:
> ...


 


  
   
  What did the mark2 look like?  Did it use the LE cable and earpads?
   
  Why doesn't Stax show it on its website?


----------



## The Monkey

Yeah, Stax is usually excellent about updating its website.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> Yeah, Stax is usually excellent about updating its website.


 

 At least they updated the website to indicate production of the SR-001mk2 has finished.
   
  Quote: 





			
				edstrelow said:
			
		

> I have seen a number of pretty superficial observations about the differences between various Lambdas, where people have had only cursory listening experience to some phones.  I had hoped that there would be more full comparisons between the dozen or so Lambda models out there but this is not happening much.  I guess most people don't have more than one Lambda.


 
   
  I've had a detailed listen/own about half a dozen lambdas in total but I dont really write reviews. I'm also interested in how the rest of the lambdas sound. Maybe we should ask Spritzer - I have the impression he's owned hundreds of lambdas before.


----------



## Michgelsen

The SR-404 Mk.2 was said to look exactly like the normal SR-404.
   
  Yes, I have wondered too why Stax has not updated their site. The were also quick to update it when production of the SR-404LE was finished. The dealer told me about the SR-404 Mk.2 in March. Could it be... BS?


----------



## vincomgo

It's so great.It makes us have funthanks
  ------------

  software outsourcing company


----------



## carm

Hi everyone !
   
  I would like to know if there is any kind of wiki page for STAX novice? 
   
  What should one know before buying STAX headphones and amp ?
   
  P.S.
  It would take me a while to scroll down all 900 pages of this thread, so I am being a little bit lazy


----------



## The Monkey

This should keep you busy for a while: http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//index.php?title=Stax_Earspeakers_Overview
   
  The do some targeted searches in this thread.  Ask questions after that.  Enjoy.
   
   
  EDIT: And I think the most important thing to know before buying Stax phones and a 'stat amp is your budget.


----------



## carm

Thank you very much Mr. Monkey 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Quote:


the monkey said:


> This should keep you busy for a while: http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//index.php?title=Stax_Earspeakers_Overview
> 
> The do some targeted searches in this thread.  Ask questions after that.  Enjoy.
> 
> ...


----------



## reiserFS

Didn't find anything on the wiki for the SR-80 Pro, are they a good starter set to get into the world of Stax sound?


----------



## padam

Better start will full electrostats, like a Gamma for instance. Electrets are not bad, just not as good and they work differently so they might loose charge over time (resulting in permament imbalance).
   
  If you prefer something newer (safer bet but cost more), you might try a SRS-2050II set (an amplifier or adapter+speaker amp is needed to drive the phones).


----------



## J-Pak

If anyone buys a new Stax SR-007 MK2 or A would they mind checking if the cable entry port is plugged? A silent revision would be interesting, and spritzer has mentioned there is no fart in one (or two) pairs that were present at CanJam.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> All other things being equal, yes.  It should give more dynamics and detail.
> 
> The Lambda needs this somewhat less than a Sigma or an 007 though.
> 
> The Lambda is a very interesting design and I sure hope that some day Stax comes up with a new driver for them somewhat like the 007.


 

 I am contemplating the possibility of commissioning an eXStatA...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> If anyone buys a new Stax SR-007 MK2 or A would they mind checking if the cable entry port is plugged? A silent revision would be interesting, and spritzer has mentioned there is no fart in one (or two) pairs that were present at CanJam.


 


 My older, unplugged, 007A doesn't really fart. You get a sort of crinkle sound from what seems to be the pads when you press on the earcups.   But it is not at all like the sound of the Mk1 fart. But that's what  you expect with the port because unlike the Mk1,  the driver is not pressurized by pressing the cup.


----------



## J-Pak

My mistake I mixed that up, he said the MK2 version he heard did fart.


----------



## gilency

Mmmmmhh...... Interesting. If indeed is true, I wont be as eager to buy the Mk1 when I am ready to purchase, since I'd be perfectly happy with the MK2.5 version.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Mmmmmhh...... Interesting. If indeed is true, I wont be as eager to buy the Mk1 when I am ready to purchase, since I'd be perfectly happy with the MK2.5 version.


 

 That's only one difference between the MK2 and MK1 though. And the port is probably the easiest to "fix"on the MK2.


----------



## spritzer

I heard two Mk2's at the meet and both farted like a Mk1.  They might also have changed the spring a bit (sure looks like it from the outside) so the new Mk2.5 could be very close to the Mk1.  I couldn't test this properly as none of the stock Mk1's fit my head...


----------



## El_Doug

But the champagne color is SO PRETTY! 
  
  Quote: 





j-pak said:


> That's only one difference between the MK2 and MK1 though.


----------



## nattonrice

Champagne and brown was pretty but champagne and black... not so much.
  Which is a shame 'cause my I'll probably end up picking them up in Japan. Why oh why can't they have the black version as an option.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I heard two Mk2's at the meet and both farted like a Mk1.  They might also have changed the spring a bit (sure looks like it from the outside) so the new Mk2.5 could be very close to the Mk1.  I couldn't test this properly as none of the stock Mk1's fit my head...


 

 Thanks for the info. Not quite ready to buy. (Wife wont let me).
  Would not fit your head?


----------



## DaveBSC

This is the first I'm hearing of a Mk2.5. Can you guys give me more information about it?


----------



## gilency

For what I gather, the newer SR-007 Mk2's may have had the bass port sealed and perhaps the spring angle reduced, like a Sprizer mod.
  I am not sure anybody has opened to confirm it though.


----------



## Currawong

Maybe the pairs at Canjam had been spritzer-modded? Just a thought.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Maybe the pairs at Canjam had been spritzer-modded? Just a thought.


 

 Mine, one of the two pair in question, has never been opened up or modified in any way. It sounded great to me so I held off until I could hear other phones. I listened to a "Mark I" plugged in to the BHSE and didn't hear anything I would trade for. YMMV.
   
  Dr. Gilmore listened to my pair through his T2 - to preview what he will be listening to because of his Mk I being destroyed - and noted that it "sure sounds different." Perhaps his brief exposure might yield some perspective, but admittedly he kept them on for less than a minute. We were listening to John Coltrane.
   
  Clark


----------



## spritzer

I suspect that Stax has altered the drivers a bit but Kevin's SR-007Mk1 is one of the first ever made and the pads were long past their sell by date. 
   
  All of the SR-007Mk2's present were stock and had never been opened up.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I am contemplating the possibility of commissioning an eXStatA...


 

 Good luck. I doubt there are boards available.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Good luck. I doubt there are boards available.


 

 A new board group buy will done in July. Alex was focused on launching the Liquid Fire at CanJam, plus his regular consulting job ramped up, so he didn't have time to manage any new board runs until then.  There was confusion WRT the eXStatA going commercial and being pulled from DIY.  That is not the case so peeps will just have to wait for the old thread to be unlocked and/or a new thread started by runeight.
   
  EDIT:  It's up:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/497255/exstata-boards


----------



## super_fied

Hi Guys, I'm about to take possession of a Omega 2 Mk I version and I'd like to know where I can find good places to get replacement ear pads as well as a spare cable. I've tried looking around but haven't had much success.
   
  Any place where the prices are reasonable?


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> A new board group buy will done in July. Alex was focused on launching the Liquid Fire at CanJam, plus his regular consulting job ramped up, so he didn't have time to manage any new board runs until then.  There was confusion WRT the eXStatA going commercial and being pulled from DIY.  That is not the case so peeps will just have to wait for the old thread to be unlocked and/or a new thread started by runeight.
> 
> EDIT:  It's up:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/497255/exstata-boards


 

 Ah, well there you go then.


----------



## carm

super_fied, you can try http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/Headphone+Accessories.html
   
  So far I have spotted only ear pads.
   
  David
   
  P.S. I was so close buying those STAX, that you have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Enjoy them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





super_fied said:


> Hi Guys, I'm about to take possession of a Omega 2 Mk I version and I'd like to know where I can find good places to get replacement ear pads as well as a spare cable. I've tried looking around but haven't had much success.
> 
> Any place where the prices are reasonable?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gilency said:


> For what I gather, the newer SR-007 Mk2's may have had the bass port sealed and perhaps the spring angle reduced, like a Sprizer mod.
> I am not sure anybody has opened to confirm it though.


 


 I certainly recommend flatenning the spring as Spritzer has noted.  This seems to reduce some of the bass and mid treble peak which can be a problem with the Mark2  (aka 007A)  model. 
   
   
  I am puzzled about the effect of blocking the ports.  When I did this with my Mk2, the bass became very pronounced, far more so than the Mk1 and I quickly removed the plug.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/381975/to-tweak-or-not-to-tweak-the-stax-007a-that-is-the-question
   
  I wonder about changes that Stax may have made between the Mk1 and Mk2.  The Mk2 seems to have deeper pads and this may cause some or all of the problems with it and explain why the spring mod is successful in reducing the peaks.  However why plugging the port didn't give a Mk1 sound (to my ear at least) is a mystery.  Spritzer suggests that Stax may have changed the driver without notice, possibly adjusting the tension.   I wonder about what is going on behind the driver.  I believe that the ring arrangement behind the driver causes some anomalies, such as a bass peak and a constricted sound  and I wonder if what is behind the drivers  is the same in the Mk1 and Mk2.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/476891/does-anyone-else-think-the-stax-007-has-a-constricted-soundstage


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





carm said:


> super_fied, you can try http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/Headphone+Accessories.html
> 
> So far I have spotted only ear pads.
> 
> ...


 

 Carm,
   
  Thanks for the heads up, I was looking at that site as well as kuboten-could anyone also advise if the mk 2 ear pads will also fit the mk 1 ear pads?I'm pretty new to Stax so do pardon me if I ask silly questions.I'd like to stock up on ear pads just in case, if you know what I mean.
   
  Yea I know, kabeer was very generous to let it go to me. I was literally holding out for a mk I version, having missed an opportunity earlier.


----------



## momomo6789

mk2 pads work fine on mk1 and their not as hot, but they tend to want to fall off my head and i have a huge head. i bought mine for 112 not really a good deal imo.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> mk2 pads work fine on mk1 and their not as hot, but they tend to want to fall off my head and i have a huge head. i bought mine for 112 not really a good deal imo.


 

 Thanks for the reply,
   
  Would audiocubes' stocks be for the mk 1 or mk 2 then? i'm pretty confused by all the numbering. I've emailed Craig at bukoten, but have gotten no reply though
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/Headphone+Accessories/product/Stax_Replacement_Leather_Pads_for_SR-007_Omega_II_Earspeakers.html?osCsid=8884f9017dd2511df6a67e7ea3faeaf7


----------



## DaveBSC

The replacement pads for the SR-007A should definitely be MK2 pads. I assume the pads they carry for the 007 are MK1 pads.


----------



## ManBeard

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> Thanks for the reply,
> 
> Would audiocubes' stocks be for the mk 1 or mk 2 then? i'm pretty confused by all the numbering. I've emailed Craig at bukoten, but have gotten no reply though
> 
> ...


 

 Audiocubes carries both. Those are the MK1 pads. These are the MK2 pads.
   
  Craig at kuboten will definitely get back to you....


----------



## momomo6789

mk1 pads are plastic so i would go with mk2 ones.


----------



## El_Doug

the mk1 pads are SO pretty with the champagne frame... and the black really clashes, especially with the brown band and cable
  
  Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> mk1 pads are plastic so i would go with mk2 ones.


----------



## momomo6789

you cant see it when their on your head.


----------



## glac1er

nvm... got confused with the new head-fi layout


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I wanted to have an original brown Mk1 pad set for the future, as it would help the phone keep their value if I ever parted with them (in case they stop making them, or have stopped making the brown Mk1 pads).  The pads on my O2 are not worn out yet, but I ordered the spare set on 5/22/10 from Audiocubes and still have not received them.  I just sent them an email to see if they can track the package.
   
  In the meantime, when my Mk1 pads do wear out I'll likely get a Mk2 set for using, and save the one spare brown set for "just in case".
   
  EDIT - just remembered I have a brown set on my Smegma Pros that I forgot about.
   
  EDIT #2 - I found a link in my order confirmation and visited the audiocubes website and the order is still "processing" and hasn't even shipped.


----------



## momomo6789

buy from the guy on ebay he shipped mine like 3 days after i bought and they were $30 cheaper


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I wanted to have an original brown Mk1 pad set for the future, as it would help the phone keep their value if I ever parted with them (in case they stop making them, or have stopped making the brown Mk1 pads).  The pads on my O2 are not worn out yet, but I ordered the spare set on 5/22/10 from Audiocubes and still have not received them.  I just sent them an email to see if they can track the package.
> 
> In the meantime, when my Mk1 pads do wear out I'll likely get a Mk2 set for using, and save the one spare brown set for "just in case".
> 
> ...


 

 That's funny, I emailed them last night and they replied me promptly that they should have it in stock. After your reply, it's making me think twice about ordering from them!


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> buy from the guy on ebay he shipped mine like 3 days after i bought and they were $30 cheaper


 

 You got any link to the guy?=)

  
  Quote: 





manbeard said:


> Audiocubes carries both. Those are the MK1 pads. These are the MK2 pads.
> 
> Craig at kuboten will definitely get back to you....


 

 Thanks! So it is correct...I just checked, no dice with the reply...  any other way to contact him? I pm'ed as well as sent an email to support@kuboten.com


----------



## jjinh

I've had a similar experience with Craig/Kuboten. If he replies to my emails he usually does so within a day or two. If I dont get a reply by then I'm fairly certain (from personal experience) he's not going to reply.


----------



## ManBeard

It sometimes takes him a few days but Craig has always replied back to me.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





manbeard said:


> It sometimes takes him a few days but Craig has always replied back to me.


 

 why doesnt he doesnt like me... *tears*


----------



## super_fied

One last question, are the replacements for the mk 1 versions only brown or are there mk ii versions where the earpads are brown as well?
   
  If I chanced across a earpad replacement that says it is for SR-007, can I assume that they are the ones for the mk i?
   
  I want to get it right as I'm quite afraid that I may have purchased the wrong ear pads if I went ahead for it..


----------



## Michgelsen

There are no brown versions for the Mk.II / A.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> There are no brown versions for the Mk.II / A.


 

 That pretty much answers my question. Thank you!


----------



## Don Quichotte

I've had a positive experience with the guy at Bluetin and they carry the O2mkII pads. Fwiw.


----------



## super_fied

Hmm I just managed to score brown replacement pads for the MK I from ebay...I'll update when it arrives.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> That's funny, I emailed them last night and they replied me promptly that they should have it in stock. After your reply, it's making me think twice about ordering from them!


 

 I've ordered several things from them in the past - this is the longest it's taken anything to arrive or ship.  I just got a reply within 24 hours:
  Hi Larry,
   
  I will have our operation manager take a look and let you know when the order can be shipped.  I hope this helps. If you have any other questions or comments, please let us know. Thank you.
   
  AC Customer Service
  info@audiocubes.com 
   
  Hi Larry,
   
  I will have our operation manager take a look and let you know when the order can be shipped.  I hope this helps. If you have any other questions or comments, please let us know. Thank you.
   
  AC Customer Service
  info@audiocubes.com 
  Hi Larry,
   
  I will have our operation manager take a look and let you know when the
  order can be shipped.
   
   
  I hope this helps. If you have any other questions or comments, please let
  us know. Thank you.
   
  AC Customer Service
  info@audiocubes.c
  Quote: 





> Hi Larry,
> 
> I will have our operation manager take a look and let you know when the order can be shipped.  I hope this helps. If you have any other questions or comments, please let us know. Thank you.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Hi Larry,
   
   
  I will have our operation manager take a look and let you know when the
  order can be shipped.
   
   
  I hope this helps. If you have any other questions or comments, please let
  us know. Thank you.
   
  AC Customer Service
  info@audiocubes.com


----------



## edstrelow

Has anyone heard the Stax 323II amp? I see that it is swinging 400 volts, which is much up from the older amps except the 717.  Could be interesting.


----------



## super_fied

Just a quick update for anyone who's interested. Craig from kuboten got back to me and mentioned that the brown ear pads for the MK I are officially discontinued. So we're only left with Mk II ear pads.


----------



## super_fied

I have a quick question and am in a dilemma actually.
   
  Currently I have a RSA Apache and Lavry DA 11,, which I am using a macbook pro as my source at the moment. 
   
  I will be expecting a BHSE at some point in time in the future. As the Lavry DA 11 has only one out put at one point of time, be it RCA or Balanced out, I was hoping to be able to utilize just one DAC (the lavry) instead of buying another DAC. (Though I will be purchasing a CDP at some point in the future)
   
  As the apache also has a function as a pre-amp, I was thinking of utilizing this pre-amp function to make a balanced connection out to the BHSE.It will look something like this...
   
  Macbook Pro/CDP(Source)---- Lavry DA 11(DAC)----Apache (Preamp)---BHSE(Amp) 
   
  By doing so, I will be using just one source and one dac to connect to two amps. At the same time, if I want to listen to my dynamic rig, I can simply switch the pre-amp function on the apache to the headphone amp section and just simply leave the BHSE turned off.
   
  Will this be feasible or would I need to acquire another DAC just to connect to the BHSE? 
   
  Was hoping if anyone could give any insight on this. Thanks!


----------



## DaveBSC

I can't say I like the idea of using a preamp to drive what is effectively an integrated amp. Why not just use a Y-splitter from the Lavry's output to connect it to both components?


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I can't say I like the idea of using a preamp to drive what is effectively an integrated amp. Why not just use a Y-splitter from the Lavry's output to connect it to both components?


 

 hmm is there a y-splitter for balanced outputs?Would there be any degrading in terms of sound quality if this is done?


----------



## DaveBSC

Indeed there is. If there is any degradation to the sound, I can't imagine it would be worse than using two volume controls.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Indeed there is. If there is any degradation to the sound, I can't imagine it would be worse than using two volume controls.


 

 Thanks so much for the help Now I just need a quick wrap around on how the y splitter works for balanced out puts....so the left inputs of both the apache and bhse will go into one y splitter and the right inputs into the other y splitter? Is that correct? So I will need two y splitters in total?
   
  Where do I purchase this? This will be certainly one method I will consider before getting another DAC....!


----------



## DaveBSC

You'll need two Y-adapter cables that are female to dual male. Plug the female end of each into the Lavry's L and R balanced outputs, and the male ends into the Apache and the BH.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> You'll need two Y-adapter cables that are female to dual male. Plug the female end of each into the Lavry's L and R balanced outputs, and the male ends into the Apache and the BH.


 

 So am I right to say that if the y splitters are not long enough to plug into both amps, I will then use a total of 4 separate XLR cables into these 2 Y-splitters.
   
  So the XLR cable of the left channels of the BH and Apache will go into the dual male sides of the Y splitter connected to the left side of the Lavry and the same goes as well for that of the right channels?
   
  Just needed that last bit of affirmation to see if my understanding was correct...thanks so much for the help dave!


----------



## n3rdling

Does neither amp have a loop out?


----------



## El_Doug

You DEFINITELY dont need dual $1500 DACs!!!  Unless the systems are in different rooms, that would be a complete waste. 
   
  The apache, unfortunately, does not have a loop-out.  I am not sure how the apache's preamp-out works, so I cannot be 100% certain:  however if the apache's pre-out offers any gain or processing, you would probably not want to use it - however it it only takes the input signal and then applies volume control, then sure, use it. 
   
   
  Your best bet would be to build a passive source-selector, which should cost all of $50 with all parts included


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> So am I right to say that if the y splitters are not long enough to plug into both amps, I will then use a total of 4 separate XLR cables into these 2 Y-splitters.
> So the XLR cable of the left channels of the BH and Apache will go into the dual male sides of the Y splitter connected to the left side of the Lavry and the same goes as well for that of the right channels?
> 
> Just needed that last bit of affirmation to see if my understanding was correct...thanks so much for the help dave!


 

 Correct. See if you can hunt down a long enough Y-cable first (or have somebody like Drew at Moon Audio build you one to the length you need). L from the BH and L from the Apache will connect to the Lavry's L output, and the same with both R channels from both amps to the Lavry's R output.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> You DEFINITELY dont need dual $1500 DACs!!!  Unless the systems are in different rooms, that would be a complete waste.
> 
> The apache, unfortunately, does not have a loop-out.  I am not sure how the apache's preamp-out works, so I cannot be 100% certain:  however if the apache's pre-out offers any gain or processing, you would probably not want to use it - however it it only takes the input signal and then applies volume control, then sure, use it.
> 
> ...


 


 Hey, that's what Ray Samuels and Dave was advising as well-no no need for double pre-amplification, so I definitely will not go that crazy route (what was I thinking!). But unfortunately both amps will be in the same room so I guess I want to make fuill use of the lavry and my source...(Although I was thinking of checking out the new Zodiac Plus DAC)
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I'm no DIY-er so do you have any source or link for me to look at this passive source selector? Or perhaps some DIY-er whom I can commission to do this?
  
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Correct. See if you can hunt down a long enough Y-cable first (or have somebody like Drew at Moon Audio build you one to the length you need). L from the BH and L from the Apache will connect to the Lavry's L output, and the same with both R channels from both amps to the Lavry's R output.


 

 I definitely will be taking this route which seems the most probable as of now...though the source selector box sounds very interesting.I'll be in touch with him for sure sometime later...


----------



## El_Doug

Any DIYer can make one for you - put up a WTB for single XLR-in, dual XLR-out, with a selector switch.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Any DIYer can make one for you - put up a WTB for single XLR-in, dual XLR-out, with a selector switch.


 

 Just put up a request, hopefully someone will be able to help do this


----------



## DaveBSC

It may not be a bad idea to try both methods, the selector and the Y-cable, and see if you prefer the sound of one option over the other.


----------



## Mr.Sir

I believe the BHSE has a loop out, but can't seem to find any photos of the back of the amp at the moment.


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is a picture of the back of the current BHSE in the canjam 2010 thread.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> There is a picture of the back of the current BHSE in the canjam 2010 thread.






 Wow, Dr Gilmore is in the house! Would you have any additional insights/inputs on what the others may have suggested? i'm really hoping that I wouldn't need to buy another DAC for that. So I'm hoping that the Y-spitter or splitter box solution may just very well do the trick.
   
  Btw, could you also kindly provide the link to the picture? I can't seem to find it-the thread by sky lab is really long!
   


  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> It may not be a bad idea to try both methods, the selector and the Y-cable, and see if you prefer the sound of one option over the other.


 

 I've found one such box, would it be something like this? Have already started asking about my two options as I want to be ready for my BHSE when it does come eventually from Justin.
   

  picture at BH Photo.


----------



## reiserFS

So I'm going to get a STAX set (SR-202 & SRM-252A) pretty much soon and was wondering if STAX amps also work well with tube pre-amps? Does anyone have some experience on that matter?
   
  Cheers


----------



## kevin gilmore

Well i can't find the picture i remembered from the CJ thread here, its a much better picture, but
  here is an older lower res version
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/bhse_back.jpg
   
  Yes it has both balanced and unbalanced loop outputs.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Well i can't find the picture i remembered from the CJ thread here, its a much better picture, but
> here is an older lower res version
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/bhse_back.jpg
> 
> Yes it has both balanced and unbalanced loop outputs.


 

 Awesome! It's been extremely hard to find back shots of the BHSE, so that is quite a treat! Thank you!
   
  I guess I am really going to find a way to properly set my rig up. Have a nice fellow head-fier offering to help me build the selector box!
   
  The BHSE won't be coming on such a short notice, but I guess I want to be prepared!


----------



## n3rdling

With the loop outs you won't need to waste money on that box.  Just go source to BHSE loop in, and  BHSE loop out to RSA input.


----------



## DaveBSC

Wouldn't using the loop out require that the BH be turned on though? What if you want to listen to the RSA all day? Is that a good idea?


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Wouldn't using the loop out require that the BH be turned on though? What if you want to listen to the RSA all day? Is that a good idea?


 

 I think Loop out is passive, and Pre out is active.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> I think Loop out is passive, and Pre out is active.


 
  Okay, so if i want to switch between either amp, say the apache to listen for example, do I need to turn the BHSE on? I wouldn't want to passively kill the tubes on it when I'm just listening to the apache!
   
  Or should I just go for the splitter box-it is still a better alternative than getting a brand new dac!


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





super_fied said:


> Okay, so if i want to switch between either amp, say the apache to listen for example, do I need to turn the BHSE on? I wouldn't want to passively kill the tubes on it when I'm just listening to the apache!
> 
> Or should I just go for the splitter box-it is still a better alternative than getting a brand new dac!


 
   
  Usually on a loop out you would not need to turn on the gear.


----------



## justin w.

The Loop Out in the BHSE is passive, however, it will only output the selected input.  Because the input selection is relay controlled, you need the amp to be turned on to change inputs.  When the amp is off, the Loop Out will default to the input that is selected when the relays are in the off position.  I don't remember which Input this would be.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> The Loop Out in the BHSE is passive, however, it will only output the selected input.  Because the input selection is relay controlled, you need the amp to be turned on to change inputs.  When the amp is off, the Loop Out will default to the input that is selected when the relays are in the off position.  I don't remember which Input this would be.


 

 Hi Justin, 
   
  Does it mean to say that I will only need to turn on the BHSE just once to select the input and have the signal guided correctly to the other amp, and then turn if off if I want to listen to a dynamic rig set up.
   
  What if I just want to listen to the BHSE alone? (Sorry if I'm asking a lot of questions-but I'm having trouble wrapping this concept in my head as my BHSE is still in the build list with Justin and I can't visualize how the cables will run properly) 
   
  So am i correct to say that my rig will look some what like this
   
  Source---Dac---BHSE (Loop out)(amp 1)---Apache (amp 2)
   
  Please comment- I would definitely love to be spared the headache when the BHSE arrives eventually....


----------



## justin w.

No, the relays will default to their off state when you turn the amp off.
   
  If you want to listen to the BHSE alone then turn off whatever you have connected to it's loop output.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> No, the relays will default to their off state when you turn the amp off.
> 
> If you want to listen to the BHSE alone then turn off whatever you have connected to it's loop output.


 

 Thanks Justin, so in short, that will be the best way to integrate my entire rig altogether by utlizing the loop out from the BHSE to the Apache and get the best of both worlds.
   
  My only concern was that if I had to keep the BHSE turned on if I opted to listen to the dynamic rig instead. If that need not be done since the loop out is passive. Is there a way to select in puts on the BHSE or preset it when you do build it for me eventually?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> So I'm going to get a STAX set (SR-202 & SRM-252A) pretty much soon and was wondering if STAX amps also work well with tube pre-amps? Does anyone have some experience on that matter?
> 
> Cheers


 


 Bump


----------



## Duckman

Listened last night to Minivan's SR-Omega, through a T1W. The only Omega 1 in Australia, I believe. Beautiful sound, sparklier than my O2 setup and wider sound-stage. Brief listen only though.
   
  The thing looked stunning.


----------



## transient orca

Have anybody had the chance to compare eXStata, T1, and 717? I am still at loss about which one I should go for?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Have anybody had the chance to compare eXStata, T, and 717? I am still at loss about which one I should go for?


 
  What do you mean by T? T1, T1S/W, or T2?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Have anybody had the chance to compare eXStata, T, and 717? I am still at loss about which one I should go for?


 

 Which headphone and what's your budget for the combo?


----------



## paaj

Quote: 





graben said:


> What do you mean by T? T1, T1S/W, or T2?


 

 Probably T1 (/S/W.. which doesn't really matter) since the T2 is kind of a different budget


----------



## transient orca

Double post


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Which headphone and what's your budget for the combo?


 
  I will probably pick one of the Lambda's (old or new). The Lambda Nova Signature seems to be a good compromise between old and new. Omega is just way too expensive. I am very curious about Sigma/404, but that's a rare thing to find. I want to stick around $ 1200 if I go for one of the T1's or eXStata. I can save a while and go up to $1600 if there are compelling reasons to go for the 717.
  Quote: 





paaj said:


> Probably T1 (/S/W.. which doesn't really matter) since the T2 is kind of a different budget


 

 That's right. i was half asleep when I typed my post.


----------



## Michgelsen

For a Lambda a SRM-T1 is great. The SRM-717 does not give much (if any at all) improvement IMHO.


----------



## edstrelow

I think that the issue is the voltage swing.  The Lambdas are failrly efficient and  don't absolutely need more than the 300 volts of most recent Stax amplifiers and will sound reasonable with these amps.  The 717 runs 450 volts, the 323II runs 400 and even the old SRMI Mk 2 runs 370 volts . Phones like the 007A are less efficient and need the higher volatge swing, other phones like the Sigmas which are less efficient even than the 007A sound better with higher voltage  although they are still usuable with 300 volts possibly because they still use Lambda drivers.


----------



## transient orca

I wish there is some hard spec numbers for the eXStata, or is it all dependent on on how one build it?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I wish there is some hard spec numbers for the eXStata, or is it all dependent on on how one build it?


 

 The 480VCT transformer yields 300Vdc rails.  A few have pushed it to 350V rails, but it's only a 2-stage design so inherently limited on how much "over" voltage it can take before the 3rd order harmonic noise comes up off the floor and becomes too audible.  The other designs can swing more voltage because they are 3-stage designs. 
   
  The eXStatA really opened some eyes at CJ with my normal bias SR-Lambdas.  For a $400-$500 build, it's pretty great performance for the money.  I'm trying a few lower cost tweaks to see if they are audible.  Just some simple resistor substitutions and different output transistors, mainly because the spec'ed ones and the alts are on back-order at Mouser until the next century, at least it feels that way to me.  I'll post publicly once I audition it if it improves the signature.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I think that the issue is the voltage swing.  The Lambdas are failrly efficient and  don't absolutely need more than the 300 volts of most recent Stax amplifiers and will sound reasonable with these amps.  The 717 runs 450 volts, the 323II runs 400 and even the old SRMI Mk 2 runs 340 volts ( some claim claim more).  Phones like the 007A are less efficient and need the higher volatge swing, other phones like the Sigmas which are less efficient even than the 007A sound better with higher voltage  although they are still usuable with 300 volts possibly because they still use Lambda drivers.


 

 According to the STAX wikipedia page, the SRM-1 and its various newer variants all run 370V.


----------



## hifidk

Does anyone know that the volume pot of SRM717 can be replaced by volume pot of other Stax amps (such as T1/S/W, SRM1, etc..)? Also, is there any aftermarket volume pot that can be used in 717?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> According to the STAX wikipedia page, the SRM-1 and its various newer variants all run 370V.


 

 Cool!  I own 2 of them.  Actually I was uncertain about this but I checked around and found a page off a manual which confirms the 370 volt swing.
   
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//index.php?title=Image:StaxSrm-p3.jpg


----------



## super_fied

Ok guys, I was wondering if anyone can help me on this.
   
  I've received my ear pads for the SR-007 already, but it came in a clear plastic bag and does not have the box that supposedly has the instructions from Japan. Looks genuine enough to me though
   
  I was wondering if anyone could be helpful enough to scan a copy of the instructions or provide a link on how to swap earpads out. Would really appreciate this!


----------



## Michgelsen

Here you go:


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


hifidk said:


> Does anyone know that the volume pot of SRM717 can be replaced by volume pot of other Stax amps (such as T1/S/W, SRM1, etc..)? Also, is there any aftermarket volume pot that can be used in 717?


   

 Yes, the volume pot can be replaced. Whether it can be replaced with one of another amp, depends on that other amp.
  The SRM-717 uses a 4-deck (balanced) pot with dual concentric shafts for the built-in balance control. As far as I know, it's a pretty standard model from the RK27 series made by ALPS, though I'm no expert on these matters.
  I don't know which Stax amps use that pot as well. The SRM-T1 doesn't: its pot is not balanced (thus only 2-deck).
   
  About aftermarket pots: I don't know of any, but if it fits, it fits.


----------



## super_fied

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Here you go:


 

 Thank you so much! Could I just confirm two more things...
   
  Are the replacement ear pads supposed to stretch? They look a lot thinner compared to the ones currently hooked up?
   
  Also is there a pocket for me to slot the hook in at the replacement ear pad?


----------



## spritzer

All of the T1S/T1W/006t/007t/727 amps have the same volume control as the 717 so the part should be easy to source from either a busted amp or from Stax.  You can fit pretty much any volume pot (except the Alps RK50) but you have to use a new knob as there is no way to fix the old one to the new pot.


----------



## Shike

Well, haven't posted in this thread in a really long time.
   
  Brought my SR-5 back from the dead with 1.5 micron mylar, elvamide, and a new (also mylar) dustcover for one unit.  No longer sounds like the Grado's of Stax, much more tamed/open and with a good amount (not overpowering, but easily present) amount of bass.  A substantial improvement IMO.
   
  I'm happy


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Shike,
   
  If you try 0.8 micron or 3 microns Mylar films, you might love them even more.   
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





shike said:


> Well, haven't posted in this thread in a really long time.
> 
> Brought my SR-5 back from the dead with 1.5 micron mylar, elvamide, and a new (also mylar) dustcover for one unit.  No longer sounds like the Grado's of Stax, much more tamed/open and with a good amount (not overpowering, but easily present) amount of bass.  A substantial improvement IMO.
> 
> I'm happy


 


 Did you repair these yourself, and if so share some details please.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Hi Shike,
> 
> If you try 0.8 micron or 3 microns Mylar films, you might love them even more.
> 
> Wachara C.


 

 The three micron wouldn't be as hard to source - don't know of any place that offers .8 (not to mention it would probably be even harder to tension and cut properly)
  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Did you repair these yourself, and if so share some details please.


 

 Yes I did.  I stripped the old mylar that had holes using acetone, sourced 1.5 micron mylar, imported elvamide which I measured on a digital scale and cooked with ethanol for roughly two hours (as instructed to properly dissolve it), applied the coating to tensioned mylar evenly, attached rings with acetone dissolvable adhesive, and applied only lightly tensioned mylar for a dust cover with acetone (similar to how stax originally applied it).
   
  If you want more information on the process you can PM me


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Shike,
   
  For your information, the 0.9 micron film can be bought at http://www.indoorspecialties.com/ .
   
  Personally, I have tried 6, 3, 1.4 and 0.9 micron films, and I like the sound from 3 microns film the best.  For me, the 0.9 micron film sounds a little better than 1.4.  As for tensioning the film, 0.9 micron film is still quite strong.  So, don't worry too much about breaking it.  Cutting the film is extremely easy using soldering iron.    I make my own electrostatic driver, please have a look at http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones .
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## hifidk

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> hifidk said:
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All of the T1S/T1W/006t/007t/727 amps have the same volume control as the 717 so the part should be easy to source from either a busted amp or from Stax.  You can fit pretty much any volume pot (except the Alps RK50) but you have to use a new knob as there is no way to fix the old one to the new pot.


 

 Thank you both of you! I will try to find volume pot for 717.


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> According to the STAX wikipedia page, the SRM-1 and its various newer variants all run 370V.


 

 Wikies are notoriously unreliable.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





bralk said:


> Wikies are notoriously unreliable.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Tom


 

 It's run by a well-known Head-fier, not to say that it means that it's error-free, but it's not Wikipedia.
  Also, if you find mistakes, you can fix them yourself.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





bralk said:


> Wikies are notoriously unreliable.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Tom


 

 Currawong's right - it's also worth noting that Wikipedia itself though is surprisingly accurate as long as you go by well known and cited articles.  The major complaint anymore is that the readability is low requiring a higher level of reading ability and comprehension than suggested by various professional organizations.


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





currawong said:


> It's run by a well-known Head-fier, not to say that it means that it's error-free, but it's not Wikipedia.
> Also, if you find mistakes, you can fix them yourself.


 
  Yes _ That´s one of the problems with wikies. Everybody can write everything.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## mrarroyo

Any suggestion on where I may find the manual for an Stax SRD-7 energizer? Thanks.


----------



## Ridleyguy

I used to own one, but there is not much to it other than showing you the connections to your amp/receiver.  It has wire connections and not plugs, if that is any help.


----------



## mrarroyo

Thanks for the information, I was hoping the manual had specifications on the unit itself.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





mrarroyo said:


> Thanks for the information, I was hoping the manual had specifications on the unit itself.


 

 Stax uses 1:25 ratio transformers so if you know your peak voltage output of your amp then you can calculate the peak swing at the headphones. I might have a SRD7 manual floating around.


----------



## transient orca

I decided I will go for either a new SR-202 or a Lambda Nova Signature. They seem to be most suitable for classical and choral/operatic music. Most people I read reported that they have relatively balanced spectrum and doesn't emphasize and particular frequency range.
   
  Is it worth it to pay $500 for a Lambda Nova Signature?


----------



## jjinh

I own a pair of 202s and had a pair of LNS on loan for about a month.
   
  In my opinion the 202s are more neutral or balanced (as you are looking for) but I think the LNS are more 'musical', whatever that means.


----------



## Lornecherry

....been inactive on the forums for a while (been lurking though) ...and now have to get back up to speed as I put together a 2nd STAX system.
   
  I am considering adding a PS Audio Power Plant 300 to my system; as I am sorry I ever sold the two that I once had.
   
  My question concerns power draw of the STAX SRM-T1 amp.
   
  The PS Audio 300 provides about 200 watts of peak power, which sounds significant; but you need tons of extra headroom and they recommend it for source and small amps only. (I have no idea how much power a SRM-T1 sucks)... and therefore I want to know if I'm going to have enough headroom after plugging in my source components and a DAC. I don't really want to move up the PS Audio food chain to the PS 600 or Premier as they are expensive and perhaps overkill for a headphone system.
   
  Anyone who uses any power conditioning on STAX amps please comment. (Power conditioners have helped exponentially with my source equipment, but are not always best with amps; at least full-sized amps).
   
  BTW if your systems always seems to sound 'better' (lower noise floor, more dynamics) after midnight, you will most certainly benefit from a power conditioner/regenerator, as it will make your system sound like that all the time! Very simple test, but highly effective.


----------



## Tachikoma

http://img156.imageshack.us/i/imgp1984ew3.jpg/


----------



## Currawong

The LNS I have are slightly more "boomy" and require a good seal, so that makes them a little more "fun" if you like, as you get a good degree of bass.  My 404LEs are more mid-forward and have much tighter bass, even if you lift them a little and break the seal.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lornecherry said:


> Anyone who uses any power conditioning on STAX amps please comment. (Power conditioners have helped exponentially with my source equipment, but are not always best with amps; at least full-sized amps).
> BTW if your systems always seems to sound 'better' (lower noise floor, more dynamics) after midnight, you will most certainly benefit from a power conditioner/regenerator, as it will make your system sound like that all the time! Very simple test, but highly effective.


 

 I use an Audience Adept Response in my setup. There's no current limiting whatsoever, even mega amps are no problem for them. I used to use a PS Power Plant Premier, and I think the Audience conditioners sound better, and there are no quality control issues to worry about. The amount of dead Power Plant Premiers (mine included) in the first few years of production was pretty atrocious for a supposedly high end product. I would hope that they are more robust now, or at least that PS isn't charging owners full price if their PPP dies out of warranty.


----------



## transient orca

I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but what would be a fair price for a pair of Lambda Nova Signature in good condition?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but what would be a fair price for a pair of Lambda Nova Signature in good condition?


 

 I would guess $400-500, but I've seen people pay as much as $550.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I own a pair of 202s and had a pair of LNS on loan for about a month.
> 
> In my opinion the 202s are more neutral or balanced (as you are looking for) but I think the LNS are more 'musical', whatever that means.


 

 let me put it this way then. Which one is more smooth and sweeter sounding?


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> let me put it this way then. Which one is more smooth and sweeter sounding


 

 SR-003


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I own a pair of 202s and had a pair of LNS on loan for about a month.
> 
> In my opinion the 202s are more neutral or balanced (as you are looking for) but I think the LNS are more 'musical', whatever that means.


 


 Don't you also have a Lambda Signature?  If so, how does it differ sonically from the LNS?


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Don't you also have a Lambda Signature?  If so, how does it differ sonically from the LNS?


 

 The Lambda Signature has slightly better extension on both ends of the spectrum. I perceive its presentation to be a bit more dynamic and exciting which I prefer but others may not. The Lambda Nova Signature while being very balanced imo is less able to present - especially acoustic - music lifelike. The differences, however, are not that pronounced.


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but what would be a fair price for a pair of Lambda Nova Signature in good condition?


 

 Buying used Stax earspeakers generally bears very little risk. The LNS I purchased from Yahoo-Japan through Kuboten made a difference. It was the only of my six Lambdas and two Sigmas that had a problem with the drivers getting loose due to the glue dissolving. I don't know if this was a isolated incident or if the LNS is more prone to that. Luckily it was no problem to fix it.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Don't you also have a Lambda Signature?  If so, how does it differ sonically from the LNS?


 

 Will have them 'soon' as Craig/Kuboten is sending them over at the moment. I wondered what happened to them as I paid for them and didnt hear back from him for 3 weeks... anyway I suppose chi2 has answered your question.
   
  If you're wondering how the LNS sounds I think they're closest to my normal bias Lambdas.


----------



## Currawong

Craig (@kuboten) has been preparing to move house, among other things.  I have personally gone around to his place to kick his bum about shipping, as I was hearing stories about him being slow, which is unusual.


----------



## Lornecherry

I have a two pairs of LNS's and a pair of LS's. They are very close overall in sound; I find myself switching among them. Only weakness is the bass (I use a Rel sub at times when the house is empty). I also have 404s which are not too bad, but clearly not as well-built as the older LNS (the 404s plastic 'Y' holders for the drivers make a noise when I move my head; the LNS's are metal). And the LNS _do_ sound better than the 404s — best described as sweeter with a touch more detail. I think the LNS uses the very thinnest membrane that Stax ever made. To my ears, the LNS even surpass the Omegas, unless the Omegas are driven by a godly source and amplification. For less than $1K you can find SRM-T1 and LNS and there is simply no other amp/headphone combination that comes anywhere close without moving seriously up the financial food chain.
   
  The LNS/SRM-T1 represent the absolute best bang for your buck (which why they so rarely come up for sale) and yes, if you can find a well-maintained pair, they are certainly worth $400-500ish for the phones and the same for the amp. Then invest in a good DAC helps to tame the slight midrange/upper peakiness that you will hear on poor digital recordings and you are in the game for keeps.


----------



## transient orca

I wonder how eXStata would compare to T1. I just ordered a set of eXStata hybrid boards. Now I just need to find somebody to commission a build.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I wonder how eXStata would compare to T1. I just ordered a set of eXStata hybrid boards. Now I just need to find somebody to commission a build.


 

 I think eXStatA drives my O2 Mk1 as well as Dinan's modded SRM-717 did, and it drives them better than my old maxed Woo GES (although not as good as my Woo WES).


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


lornecherry said:


> I think the LNS uses the very thinnest membrane that Stax ever made.


   
  It doesn't, but the Lambda Signature does (1 micron). The Lambda Nove Signature uses 1.5 micron and the current headphones use 1.35 micron.


----------



## spritzer

Quote:  





> I think eXStatA drives my O2 Mk1 as well as Dinan's modded SRM-717 did, and it drives them better than my old maxed Woo GES (although not as good as my Woo WES).


 

 The 717 has a lot more power then any Exstata so something was clearly up with that amp.  I've seen the "mods" and waste of time springs to mind...
   
  As for the GES vs. WES, I think I'd pick the GES after a couple of auditions at CJ.  The WES has a bit more power (same operating voltages though) but the GES simply sounds cleaner to my ears blasting Back in Black though a SR-007Mk2.5.  You loose a bit of extension but I'd take that any day over the bass bloat I heard in the WES.  To say I was disapointed with the WES would be a massive understatement...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 717 has a lot more power then any Exstata so something was clearly up with that amp.  I've seen the "mods" and waste of time springs to mind...
> 
> As for the GES vs. WES, I think I'd pick the GES after a couple of auditions at CJ.  The WES has a bit more power (same operating voltages though) but the GES simply sounds cleaner to my ears blasting Back in Black though a SR-007Mk2.5.  You loose a bit of extension but I'd take that any day over the bass bloat I heard in the WES.  To say I was disappointed with the WES would be a massive understatement...


 
   
  What I like most about the WES is the wider deeper soundstage than my old maxed GES, which was more forward and narrow sounding and a little more rolled off at the ends.  I'm not always blasting music at loud levels, and if I am it's usually a fairly clean recording of live jazz or classical (or sometimes electronic).
   
  The WES does have a bit more power and bass impact, which is why I use it more with my HE60 than O2 Mk1.  You can't call the HE60 a bass-lite headphone with the WES.  But I still think the bass is not excessively bloated with my O2 mk1, although the bass levels are slightly higher than I'd like.
   
  What I've noticed about the WES power is that if I decide to crank up my O2 Mk1 louder, the WES doesn't distort as easily at high volumes with bass-heavy music as my old GES did, nor did the eXStatA.  Infected mushroom would fall flat on it's face with the GES and O2 Mk1, and sounded a bit thin with my HE60.  I don't think that the Mk1 are as efficient as the Mk2 were, and with the GES I'd possibly be happier with my previous modded O2 Mk2.  I'm sure tubes could also be rolled to adjust the sound later on the WES, and tubes did make a big difference on the GES.
   
  I'll admit not everyone likes the WES as much as I do - Immtbiker compared my WES before it shipped to me vs Kerry's Blue Hawaii and said the BH won.  And I did think that Naamanf's BH was better than my GES at a meet that we held at my home.  And I admit that I did like the SRM-717 with the O2 Mk1 and HE60.  I'd like to do more comparisons of BH and 717 vs GES and WES someday.  
   
  I'd like to do some direct eXStatA comparisons too.  The hybrid eXStatA that wiatrob 1st built went bad after the PSU board came loose and shorted on the case, and the replacement hybrid still needs the final PSU adjustments done.  But I'm hoping to get that done before our next meet.  And, once luvdunhill finishes trouble shooting my digital balanced attenuator, then my SS eXStatA will be done as well (one is for my son, and my SS amp was completed 2 months ago except for the attenuator).


----------



## spritzer

I'd say the WES is far from the same category as a BH and I'd even take a regular KGSS over it.  I like my amps to have very little color and that just isn't true with the WES.  The whole point of using larger tubes, more power etc. is to make the amp less of a factor and let the character of the phones shine through.  The GES does a better job here and I for one never heard any distortion even at silly levels (in the silent room as there was almost nobody in it), some slight compression artifacts but that's about it. 
   
  The reason for all of this IMO is that the WES is basically the same amp as the GES but with minor changes.  Running EL34's at 600V isn't a good idea IMO and the use of 6SL7's makes little sense to me.  I'm going to build my own version of this circuit one day though and compare it to the ESX. 
   
  My Exstata is out for now (I'm going to scrap all the Fairchild parts and put in Toshiba sand instead which has yet to arrive) but even at +/-350V and with the same PSU as my KGSS (all other parts equal or better on the Exstata) my KGSS was better to my ears.  Since the 717 is just a cheaper version of the KGSS circuit(slightly modifed and with a CRC PSU) the same should apply.   
   
  I had issues with the Amati too which I was going to fit in my old Blue Hawaii.  I just scrapped it and put in a regular TKD pot instead.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'm using Treasures 6CA7 instead of EL34, so I don't know if that makes a difference.  I think my 6SL7 are RCA's.  What's wrong with the 600v on EL34 (6CA7), or with using 6SL7?  I don't know a lot about what makes one tube a better choice than another, and leave that to the experts.
  
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Running EL34's at 600V isn't a good idea IMO and the use of 6SL7's makes little sense to me.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





lornecherry said:


> I have a two pairs of LNS's and a pair of LS's. They are very close overall in sound; I find myself switching among them. Only weakness is the bass (I use a Rel sub at times when the house is empty). I also have 404s which are not too bad, but clearly not as well-built as the older LNS (the 404s plastic 'Y' holders for the drivers make a noise when I move my head; the LNS's are metal). And the LNS _do_ sound better than the 404s — best described as sweeter with a touch more detail. I think the LNS uses the very thinnest membrane that Stax ever made. To my ears, the LNS even surpass the Omegas, unless the Omegas are driven by a godly source and amplification. For less than $1K you can find SRM-T1 and LNS and there is simply no other amp/headphone combination that comes anywhere close without moving seriously up the financial food chain.
> 
> The LNS/SRM-T1 represent the absolute best bang for your buck (which why they so rarely come up for sale) and yes, if you can find a well-maintained pair, they are certainly worth $400-500ish for the phones and the same for the amp. Then invest in a good DAC helps to tame the slight midrange/upper peakiness that you will hear on poor digital recordings and you are in the game for keeps.


 


 I did  a previous comparison between a Signature and 404
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-signature-vs-nova-classic
   
  But then I came to realize that the backing foam was affecting the results.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas
   
   
  Essentially what I concluded was that the foam behind the drivers was causing a most of the nastiness of the 404 midrange.  Remove this and its a much nicer sounding phone and with a wider soundstage.
   
  Part of the reason the Signature (and I suspect many older Lambdas) sound good is that the original foam was thinner and/or has deteriorated to the point of being almost invisible acoustically.


----------



## transient orca

The Lambda Nova Signature has some foam missing on the back of the left driver. The foam is intact on the right driver.
   

   
  Is that a big concern. I worry that the two drivers may sound differently. How easy is it to replace the foam? The sound may be better without the foam, but I want to have the option to experiment with both.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Is that a big concern. I worry that the two drivers may sound differently. How easy is it to replace the foam? The sound may be better without the foam, but I want to have the option to experiment with both.


 


 Very easy to replace, and I would do so. All of that degrading foam is just plain messy.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Very easy to replace, and I would do so. All of that degrading foam is just plain messy.


 

 Where do you get the replacement foam?
   
  If the foam is not that big of a deal sound wise, I will just pull the trigger, but I am just not sure.


----------



## Beefy

I got mine from Yamas.
   
  I have no opinion on the sound, but IMO the foam is important for keeping dust and debris away from the drivers.


----------



## Currawong

It could just be because of the new pads, but my LNS aren't lacking in bass in the least. If anything, they are not bass-shy.  I might not be getting the best seal on them, but then my 404LE don't go bass-crazy if the seal isn't perfect.  This out of a T1S.  I hope, funds permitting, I can do a 717/eXStatA/KGSSHV comparison with O2s later on.


----------



## transient orca

It's so hard buying used headphones without the chance to try out. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Pardon my rant, I just lost out on a $100 AKG K501.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





beefy said:


> I got mine from Yamas.
> 
> I have no opinion on the sound, but IMO the foam is important for keeping dust and debris away from the drivers.


 


 The drivers have a dust cover on the back so the foam doesn't help.  I don't think there is a dust cover on the front though so the foam there may be more important.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I'm using Treasures 6CA7 instead of EL34, so I don't know if that makes a difference.  I think my 6SL7 are RCA's.  What's wrong with the 600v on EL34 (6CA7), or with using 6SL7?  I don't know a lot about what makes one tube a better choice than another, and leave that to the experts.


 

 The 6CA7 is all but identical to the EL34 (otherwise they couldn't be used swapped so freely) but just different enough to allow the manufacturer (Sylvania) to get away with calling it their own tube design and thus not pay royalities to Mullard. 
   
  Running the EL34's at 600V is the same problem as as running 845/211's below 1kV.  The tubes simply aren't running at their optimal operating point which in this case would be closer to 800V.  As for the 6SL7, there littereally dozens of tubes better suited for this role here and the only thing I can see the 6SL7 has going for it is high mu.


----------



## edstrelow

I just noticed on the Stax site that the portable SR001Mk2 has finished production.  Any word yet on whether they will offer another portable unit. The phones are pretty good and I personally think the amp is fine but  others think it could be upgraded.


----------



## El_Doug

Where did the necessity for 800v come from? 
   
  My tube knowledge is limited, however in this discussion it is said that running EL34's at such a high voltage will, "force a cold bias setting in order not to exceed the tubes' plate dissipation. This makes the amp run closer to Class-B, and the result is more odd harmonics leading to a thinner, harder tone."  Of course I have no idea what this means, but perhaps you could shed some light on this? 
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 6CA7 is all but identical to the EL34 (otherwise they couldn't be used swapped so freely) but just different enough to allow the manufacturer (Sylvania) to get away with calling it their own tube design and thus not pay royalities to Mullard.
> Running the EL34's at 600V is the same problem as as running 845/211's below 1kV.  The tubes simply aren't running at their optimal operating point which in this case would be closer to 800V.  As for the 6SL7, there littereally dozens of tubes better suited for this role here and the only thing I can see the 6SL7 has going for it is high mu.


----------



## spritzer

Have you ever looked at tube datasheets?  Then you'd know their behaviour changes with the drive voltages applied which makes them more or less linear.  The comment you posted doesn't hold true for the amps here as we aren't trying to extract maximum power out of the amps to driver speaker.  A pair of EL34's driven at 800V can do 90W AB1 but most are run at ~500V in speaker amps to make them last longer.  Now in something like the ESX you can use the higher voltage yet only run the tubes are 50% or less of their rated maximum load which means the tubes will last for years and years. 
   
  On a similar note, has any of you tried to push any of the Stax 6CG7 based amps hard in terms of volume and heard it fall apart?  Same deal but in the other direction since Stax were asking too much from the tubes, running them far above their limit.  That's why the SRM-600 should be a nice improvement over the older amps since the ECC99 can handle the extra voltage. 
  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I just noticed on the Stax site that the portable SR001Mk2 has finished production.  Any word yet on whether they will offer another portable unit. The phones are pretty good and I personally think the amp is fine but  others think it could be upgraded.


 

 It will be replaced but details are still a bit thin on the ground.  It's long overdue as we have much better opamps these days (the Mk2 is from 1997) let alone the gigantic leap we've seen in battery design.


----------



## El_Doug

The EL34 datasheets look to be very linear over a very wide range of voltages - and none that I have seen even show 800v on the graphs.  Alas, I am a major novice when it comes to this stuff
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Have you ever looked at tube datasheets?  Then you'd know their behaviour changes with the drive voltages applied which makes them more or less linear.


----------



## spritzer

The datasheets aren't all created equally so you have to find the right one or make your own measurements.


----------



## kevin gilmore

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/6ca7.pdf
   
  You have to remember that this tube was designed for push pull applications.
   
  Which means that as one tube is turning on hard, the other tube can see as much
  as 2 x VCC. Which is easily 1kv or more.


----------



## El_Doug

I'm still unclear, however.  Even though the max voltage rating is 800v, and even though in many pp applications the tube can see 1kv, what is the benefit of running it at 800v?  the tube looks exceedingly linear already at 500v. 
   
  perhaps this is a question better suited to another thread, but I am quite curious


----------



## kevin gilmore

You want the largest voltage swing possible.
   
  On the T2, the tube runs at 1kv.
   
  The limiting voltage for the T2 is the current source
  that drives the tube, otherwise you could raise the rails
  to put 1140 volts on the tube.


----------



## Stein

Speaking of voltage a bit, I just got back from Japan today with the Stax 2050A system, but I'm not sure if I can run it safely on American power.
  Will I need to get a transformer before I use them, or is it no problem?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





stein said:


> Speaking of voltage a bit, I just got back from Japan today with the Stax 2050A system, but I'm not sure if I can run it safely on American power.
> Will I need to get a transformer before I use them, or is it no problem?


 

 Just buy another wallwart that is for the same wattage and you will be all set with you 2050A.


----------



## spritzer

It is not a good idea to run a stock SRM-252 from a 100V transformer in the US.  I did it at CanJam but my unit has been modified to handle the extra voltage. 
   
  You can use a transformer but you can also just look around for an old, unused 12VDC adapter from some old piece of kit and use that.  Do notice the polarity of the plug though as Stax has the barrel as + while most equipment has the barrel as -.  Easy to fix though, just cut the cable and reverse the wires. 
  
  Quote: 





el_doug said:


> I'm still unclear, however.  Even though the max voltage rating is 800v, and even though in many pp applications the tube can see 1kv, what is the benefit of running it at 800v?  the tube looks exceedingly linear already at 500v.
> 
> perhaps this is a question better suited to another thread, but I am quite curious


 

 That's a 800V supply voltage which goes through the plate resistor so you have to factor that in.  800V is simply a number we are very familiar with on the EL34 and I for one have compared to against other values.  As Kevin points out, the whole point here is to get as much voltage swing as is possible so running the tubes this low makes no sense to me.


----------



## El_Doug

Is there any reason at all to run the voltage lower, at such low power levels? 
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's a 800V supply voltage which goes through the plate resistor so you have to factor that in.  800V is simply a number we are very familiar with on the EL34 and I for one have compared to against other values.  As Kevin points out, the whole point here is to get as much voltage swing as is possible so running the tubes this low makes no sense to me.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hi Everyone.  I hope you have been well.  I am sorry to say that I've been a little busy and sad lately as both of my parents have passed away.  As a result, I did not attend CanJam 2010 and I taking some time to recover.  I have not forgot about my Headfi and Stax friends.  I will be back blogging on Headfi soon.  Thanks for all of your support.   Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Is there any reason at all to run the voltage lower, at such low power levels?


 

 If you want to run speakers then maybe but we want maximum voltage swing here.  We may never use all of it but as everybody knows, gear doesn't perform well when pushed to the limit (aka the Stax 6CG7 amps) so extra headroom is always welcome.


----------



## mrarroyo

Sorry about your parents Scott, hope to see you post more often in the future.


----------



## ztsen

Just join Stax family recently. Got a good deal for 2nd hand SRS-2050A. Have been audition it and also SRS-4040A, SRM-727A, SRM-600 Ltd, SRM-007tA while i in Tokyo. My favourite so far is SR-404 with SRM-007tA. Also find the SRS-2050A quite enjoyable. Stax sounds very musical to me.
   
  Anyone use Russ Andrew Power Pack II (not sure they can provide center -ve pin) for the SRM-252A? Any improvement? My setup is came with a mod router 12v power adaptor.
  Have anyone tried SR-202 with SRM-007tA, any room for improvement?
  How is the Woo Audio GES compare with SRM-007tA?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Scotty, sorry to hear the news.  It was tough dealing with losing my dad in Dec 07, but it did get better over time.


----------



## West726

Can someone tell me the dimensions of the Omega 2 case and outer packaging?  (I assume that that pretty case comes inside a box.)  The backstory involves a suitcase . . .


----------



## gilency

Scott: my condolences on your parents.


----------



## DaveBSC

The box for the O2 standing up is about 11.75" tall, 11" wide, and about 6.5" deep.


----------



## West726

Thanks for the quick response -- it will fit!
   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The box for the O2 standing up is about 11.75" tall, 11" wide, and about 6.5" deep.


----------



## Stein

Quote: 





graben said:


> Just buy another wallwart that is for the same wattage and you will be all set with you 2050A.


 

 So I should get another power adapter that outputs 12v, but instead of taking 100v, takes 120v?
  Sorry, I don't have a great understanding of electricity. :l


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





stein said:


> So I should get another power adapter that outputs 12v, but instead of taking 100v, takes 120v?
> Sorry, I don't have a great understanding of electricity. :l


 

 Yes, and make sure you use an adapter with the correct polarity.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The box for the O2 standing up is about 11.75" tall, 11" wide, and about 6.5" deep.


 

 I got pretty much the same numbers on my SR-007 box - 11.5" x 11" x 6.75"


----------



## West726

Thanks again!  This really makes a difference in the quality of about 3 days, believe it or not.
  
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I got pretty much the same numbers on my SR-007 box - 11.5" x 11" x 6.75"


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





west726 said:


> Thanks again!  This really makes a difference in the quality of about 3 days, believe it or not.


 

 So it looks like you're picking up a pair of SR-007s from somewhere and bringing it back in a suitcase? Not sending it as you dont trust the postal system??


----------



## West726

It will just go in my carry-on, which I trust a lot more than the postal system.
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> So it looks like you're picking up a pair of SR-007s from somewhere and bringing it back in a suitcase? Not sending it as you dont trust the postal system??


----------



## kevin gilmore

i'm going to post this here, it is as good a place as any.

 The bias on the koss esp950 headphones is absolutely close to 600 volts.

 Here is the proof
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kesp1.jpg

 So the tan resistor has absolutely no markings.
 The 10 meg resistor is in series with the +630 volt power supply (plus or minus a bit, on batteries, about +600)
 The unknown resistor is to ground in parallel with the cap.

 You just can't measure that resistor with it in circuit, which is where everyone else seems to be making the mistake.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kesp2.jpg

 and this meter measures to 200 meg.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kesp3.jpg

 Now usually when i see resistors like this, they are 1 gigohm.

 But even if that resistor is as little as 250 meg ohms, the bias is
 still (referenced to 600v) a minimum of 575 volts.

 THE KOSS ESP950's ARE HIGH BIAS HEADPHONES!


----------



## El_Doug

NEATO TORPEDO! 
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> THE KOSS ESP950's ARE HIGH BIAS HEADPHONES!


----------



## Stein

Well, I just got off the phone with two of the electronics stores closest to my house (which incidentally aren't really that close at all), and they have no idea what kind of plug I'm looking for at all.
  Would anyone be kind enough to link me to somewhere I could get a proper power adapter? :/
  Sorry to be such a pest.


----------



## spritzer

Do you have any old routers/switches/hubs etc. around the house?  Some of this computer stuff has 12V wall warts which you could use.


----------



## Stein

I've got a couple laying around, such as the one for my ef2 amp, but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be chopping up the wires. I take it I wouldn't be able to just use that as is?
  Edit: Scratch that, that's a 16v output. I did find another one that has a 12v output, but at 800mA instead of the 500mA on the Stax one. I guess I should keep looking?
  Edit 2: Yeah, so I've got plenty of adapters, just none that match the specifications or polarity of the Stax adapter. Woe is me. :l


----------



## edstrelow

I see some Stax transformers modified for high bias for sale on EBAY.  Some guy in Iceland, doesn't seem to be Spritzer.  Anyone know if this guy knows what he is doing?
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/Modified-Stax-SRD-7-Pro-bias-transformer-box-/140423522259?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b1e4e7d3


----------



## mrarroyo

I may be wrong but the eBay add sounds like it was written by Birgir (see part on new board).


----------



## Stein

Well, even if he does know what he's doing, that $45 shipping doesn't look too appealing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I see some Stax transformers modified for high bias for sale on EBAY.  Some guy in Iceland, doesn't seem to be Spritzer.  Anyone know if this guy knows what he is doing?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Modified-Stax-SRD-7-Pro-bias-transformer-box-/140423522259?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b1e4e7d3


 

 Different username but it is me.  Back in the day when I was buying up pretty much every Stax headphone out there it was a good idea to not have the same username...
   
  The shipping is what it is, nothing I can do about that.


----------



## Stein

Well seeing as how you're in Iceland, that makes a lot of sense. 
  That does look like what I need, though. And I hate to ask this considering you're the seller, but what are some cheaper alternatives? :/
   
  Edit: After searching a bit more, I found this: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Switching-Adapter-Supply-Electronics/dp/B001UBOJ8M/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1278371801&sr=8-30
   
  Will this do the trick? Specs look the same as the Stax one, and this seems to be the right polarity. Anyone care to double check for me?
   
  Edit again: The only difference I can spot between the two is that, though the + and - are on the right sides, the little C in the center is flipped. I don't know what that means.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





stein said:


> I've got a couple laying around, such as the one for my ef2 amp, but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be chopping up the wires. I take it I wouldn't be able to just use that as is?
> Edit: Scratch that, that's a 16v output. I did find another one that has a 12v output, but at 800mA instead of the 500mA on the Stax one. I guess I should keep looking?
> Edit 2: Yeah, so I've got plenty of adapters, just none that match the specifications or polarity of the Stax adapter. Woe is me. :l


 

 Hi Stein,
   
  If Stax one requires only 500mA from a 12v output adapter, then your 800mA with 12v ouput is just perfect for it.  800mA is 1.6 times larger than 500mA.  I'll say that it's better than the original.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Stein

Thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that the specs had to be identical aside from the input, but I guess that's not the case. There's still the issue of polarity, but I know that can be fixed by flipping the wires around like Spritzer said.
  I'd still like to find an adapter that is 100% okay, though. I'd rather not take any chances that might damage my new Stax. :<


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





stein said:


> I've got a couple laying around, such as the one for my ef2 amp, but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be chopping up the wires. I take it I wouldn't be able to just use that as is?
> Edit: Scratch that, that's a 16v output. I did find another one that has a 12v output, but at 800mA instead of the 500mA on the Stax one. I guess I should keep looking?
> Edit 2: Yeah, so I've got plenty of adapters, just none that match the specifications or polarity of the Stax adapter. Woe is me. :l


 

 I found out that the EF2 PSU is AC, not DC, so it wont work anyway.


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Stein,
   
  If you have a multimeter, you can check the polarity very easily.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Thanks everyone for your support in the loss of my parents.  It is great to get back to my music and our music and into life again.  I have been busy purchasing some new equipment; but it is mostly for my external system.  I think I am at the point where there is not a lot of stuff left to purchase.  I am still looking for a pair of Stax Sigma Non Pros and a couple of six prong extention cords.  Enjoy Scottsmrnyc


----------



## svyr

srs-2050a (sr-202+ srm252) were so great, until something screwed up and now on loud passages I get crackling at about 1khz... (the vol knob is at about 2 pm. The crackling happens on any source I plug them into and with different line-in cables)

   I take it, it can be anything from a faulty wall wart to faulty driver unit or earspeakers? 
   
  If you're in Melbourne and with a pro bias stax amp and or headphones, and could spare 20 mins of your time for me to drop by and test my set with your gear
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  p.s. I don't suppose there is a place in Australia to service Stax headphones/amps that are out of warranty  ?
   
  p.s.s. can anyone lend me a 12v0.5a wall wart with center negative polarity that's definitely to spec?


----------



## spritzer

Does the sound go away or change in any way when you move the volume control?


----------



## svyr

spritzer,
   
  connected to different sources via line out it's fine until I turn the vol knob past 2 o'clock, then the crackling appears, but the sound never cuts out. 
   
   
  It sounds like the crackling gets more prominent the louder I turn it up (the louder, the wider the frequency band around 1khz that's distorted... when the vol knob is fully turned, it's from about 300hz to 3khz)


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Svyr,
   
  It sounds like your amp clips at that high output level.  Wow, you really listen to your music very loudly.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## svyr

>Wow, you really listen to your music very loudly.
   
  Depends on the CDs - may be up to about 3 o'clock for some classical where it's not really that loud. Generally at about 2 o'clock, minus some volume in the music player software
  For other music it's usually at around noon... (if I listen to it at 3 o'clock it's usually loud enough to be painful for metal or rock). 
   
   
  >It sounds like your amp clips at that high output level.
   
  if you mean driver unit, then it sounds like a perfectly reasonable conclusion (at the same time, why not a faulty sr-202 that fails more as it gets louder?), If it's the driver unit - if Stax never wanted people to be able to turn the knob past 2 o'clock otherwise it cracks, why put dials and let it turn? (my ti based amp used to do the same, but it's was allowed to, since it cost < $50). Does anyone else with a srs-2050a get the same behavior for that volume? (i.e. is this normal for a srm-252a?)
   
  Wonder what my sales pitch would be when I want to upgrade and sell this one. 'Wonderful Stax Basic system... Works great if your music has narrow dynamic range/is volume leveled'? ... heh
   
   
   
  heh, this still means I need to plug the headphones into another driver unit and test... Please see http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/13680#post_6763730 if you're reading this and live in Melb.
   
  Any idea if I can mod the srm-252 not to clip? (so far I got to... not being able to open the case after removing the screws... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## spritzer

The SRM-252 isn't a very powerful amp but it shouldn't be clipping into that load.  What I'd do is measure the DC adapter to make sure it is giving the amp enough voltage and then I'd take the top off the amp and look for any obvious signs of trouble.


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





stein said:


> Well seeing as how you're in Iceland, that makes a lot of sense.
> That does look like what I need, though. And I hate to ask this considering you're the seller, but what are some cheaper alternatives? :/
> 
> Edit: After searching a bit more, I found this: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Switching-Adapter-Supply-Electronics/dp/B001UBOJ8M/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1278371801&sr=8-30
> ...


 
   
  I would stay away from switching PSUs as they are a potential source of electronic noise. Go for a regulated PSU.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## spritzer

His best bet would be a bench supply if you want to go balls to the wall.  Fully regulated and polarity is just a matter of how you hook up the output wires.  It's what I'm currently using with my SRM-Xh...


----------



## svyr

>The SRM-252 isn't a very powerful amp but it shouldn't be clipping into that load.  What I'd do is measure the DC adapter to make sure it is giving the amp enough voltage and then I'd take the top off the amp and look for any obvious signs of trouble.
   
  Did that yesterday - 12.3v without load. The adapter is rated as 1A and is from a local electronics store with lots of aus standard ticks (not that speaks about quality but still).
  Not sure what it would give under load with music playing or what the real max current output is for it.
   
   
  Hmmm, thank you, spritzer. I guess, I could buy a transformer for the original adapter (110 to 230v 230->110v) and test it with that. That's probably cheaper than getting a regulated psu, since those seem to be at least $70 here, vs $50 delivered for the voltage converter.


----------



## Stein

Alright bralk and spritzer, I take it this http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Regulated-Supply-Adapter-PW12500R/dp/B000VRL632/ref=pd_sim_MI_1 would be the one to go for then?
   
  EDIT: wait wait wait, I guess not? It says fully regulated, but also switching. I guess I should keep looking. If you guys have any suggestions, I'd happily take them.
   
  I just might need a little bit of help figuring out how to actually access the wires so I can reverse the polarity, if that's okay with you, spritzer.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





svyr said:


> >The SRM-252 isn't a very powerful amp but it shouldn't be clipping into that load.  What I'd do is measure the DC adapter to make sure it is giving the amp enough voltage and then I'd take the top off the amp and look for any obvious signs of trouble.
> 
> Did that yesterday - 12.3v without load. The adapter is rated as 1A and is from a local electronics store with lots of aus standard ticks (not that speaks about quality but still).
> Not sure what it would give under load with music playing or what the real max current output is for it.
> ...


 

 Vlad, just noticed you mention your adapter is rated at 1A, but in this post above you mention the SRM-252 should take 0.5A; could that make a difference???
  
  Also iirc you got your unit from Japan right (sorry my memory is crap). In that case I think it should probably be a 240v to 100v transformer.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SRM-252 isn't a very powerful amp but it shouldn't be clipping into that load.  What I'd do is measure the DC adapter to make sure it is giving the amp enough voltage and then I'd take the top off the amp and look for any obvious signs of trouble.


 

 I must be doing something wrong as I've tried to take of the cover of the SRM-252 in the past but after taking off the screws on the front I cannot get anything to budge. I was afraid to pull it a bit harder. Does one also have to take off the screws on the back??


----------



## svyr

>Vlad, just noticed you mention your adapter is rated at 1A, but in this post above you mention the SRM-252 should take 0.5A; could that make a difference???
   
  1A is the max current the adapter I bought with the local plug should be able to output (if they were honest and it's not broken)
  
   
  >Also iirc you got your unit from Japan right (sorry my memory is crap). In that case I think it should probably be a 240v to 100v transformer.
   
  I did, but then I got the local plug 12v1a.
   
  I have an option of getting a step down transformer and trying the org adapter as mentioned above.
   
  >must be doing something wrong as I've tried to take of the cover of the SRM-252 in the past but after taking off the screws on the front I cannot get anything to budge. I was afraid to pull it a bit harder. Does one also have to take off the screws on the back??
   





 I took the ones on the back off, and the one at the bottom, but it wouldn't budge. I don't have the hex drivers to unscrew the front ones, and I have no clue how to take off the volume knob.... Maybe we need to unscrew all of them. I never found a manual.


----------



## dave650

I became a Stax owner today.
  Old SR5 headphones with an SRD-7 driver.
  I bought them for well under 100 pounds shipped on ebay from a guy in France.
  I am going to love these headphones! Why did I bother buying Grado SR325 ?
  If old Stax headphones are this good, I cant wait to hear a new pair!


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





dave650 said:


> I became a Stax owner today.
> Old SR5 headphones with an SRD-7 driver.
> I bought them for well under 100 pounds shipped on ebay from a guy in France.
> I am going to love these headphones! Why did I bother buying Grado SR325 ?
> If old Stax headphones are this good, I cant wait to hear a new pair!


 
   
  Congrats on the stax. My first stax (SR-202 + SRM-252) made my K701s sound so crap, not that I liked them in the first place.
   
  And 'old' stax is apparently where all the good stuff is, e.g. SR-Λ sounds real sweet and isnt that bad on the wallet.


----------



## n3rdling

The SR5 is a badass little headphone, congrats


----------



## dave650

As soon as I heard them I knew that this is what I wanted all along. No more messing around with dynamic drivers, me. I can't even begin to describe how much better I am hearing my music.
  Where to from here?
  Lambdas, when I can afford some.
  I wonder if my driver will run Lambdas?
  They sound so good. Just plugged em into my old Nad 7020's power amp.
  The chain goes:
  *Much modded Rega turntable with RB300 and Supex MKIV cartridge
  *Benz Micro PP1 MC preamp
  *Darkvoice 336se headphone amp (as preamp, volume control)
  *NAD 7020 straight to power amp
  *Stax SRD7 driver and SR5 headphones.
  There's a bit of hum from either the NAD or the Stax, I don't know which yet.
  But I am getting an awesome sound, hearing the music better than ever.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I absolutely know how to do a version that runs at +/-1000 volts.
> In fact i have a working prototype with 2100 volt parts.
> Would work great for ESL63's.
> 
> ...


 




  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> You want the largest voltage swing possible.
> 
> On the T2, the tube runs at 1kv.
> 
> ...


 

 Ok, I realize the tubes can't swing their full plate voltage, but I'm confused a bit now and suspect I'm missing something as my brain must still be on holiday.  I'm working with Colin on a differential D3A/EL34 P-P for stats and I'll add a OPT for speakers/orthos.  But looking strictly at the plate voltages and swing WRT to the headphones, why would I want to swing more than 1150V or 1200V?  Seems like any more than that and the headphones are at risk of damage.  I understand the concept of headroom and having more power is better to keep the distortion down at louder listening levels, but my worry is damage to the headphones if they were swinging 1400V or more if the plates are at 800V.  My primary cans are Normal Bias SR-Lambdas, but I'm planning to add custom HE60s and eventually custom ESP/950s too so I do have a need for more swing than a stock eXStatA.  The stock eXStatA will be leaps and bounds faster than the tube amp so I plan to keep it so I can always use the eXStatA with the Lambdas to prevent damage. 
   
  Note:  This is a very large concern for me since I have a rather wild and sneaky 4-1/2yo son.  I usually remember to check all my volume knobs and switch positions, but sometimes he still surprises me.  The worst case scenario would be if I forgot to unplug my Lambdas and he cranked up the volume full tilt, then flipped on the power switch.  Only way to completely prevent this would be to use a keyed switch and that's a large PITA and my wife does occasionally use my headphones. Power switches on the backs don't slow him down and the wife is opposed to my idea of wiring a little shock therapy to the power switches...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Did that yesterday - 12.3v without load. The adapter is rated as 1A and is from a local electronics store with lots of aus standard ticks (not that speaks about quality but still).  Not sure what it would give under load with music playing or what the real max current output is for it.
> 
> 
> Hmmm, thank you, spritzer. I guess, I could buy a transformer for the original adapter (110 to 230v 230->110v) and test it with that. That's probably cheaper than getting a regulated psu, since those seem to be at least $70 here, vs $50 delivered for the voltage converter.


 

 For what is likely an unregulated PSU 12.3V seems very, very low.  I'd measure it under load to make sure the amp is actually seeing 12VDC. 
   
  I always have some step down transformers at hand and they do work well for not a whole lot of money.  Any 50W units should also be dirt cheap on ebay. 
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Vlad, just noticed you mention your adapter is rated at 1A, but in this post above you mention the SRM-252 should take 0.5A; could that make a difference???
> 
> Also iirc you got your unit from Japan right (sorry my memory is crap). In that case I think it should probably be a 240v to 100v transformer.
> 
> ...


 

 More current then what is recommended is never a problem.  The amp just draws what it needs and no more. 
   
  It's been a few years since I've opened a SRM-252 but the screws above the RCA's are just to secure them and any screws in the center of the bottom panel are there to secure the PCB.  Do remove the screws on the front and back panel and see if it comes loose.


----------



## kevin gilmore

if the 252 is like the rest of those amps, its the 4 screws on the bottom that
  you want to take off. then the case slides off.


----------



## spritzer

The 252 switched to an extruded aluminum case so I'm sure it is attached differently.


----------



## WilCox

As Kevin suggests, you'll have to remove the screws from the bottom to slide off the extruded case.  Three of the screws are hidden under the feet.


----------



## svyr

>Three of the screws are hidden under the feet.
   
  oh ok thank you! if I do that, would I need new feet for it, or can I stick the same ones back on without damaging them?
   
   
  >I'd measure it under load to make sure the amp is actually seeing 12VDC. 
   
  Hmph, I just measured the voltage under load for the SRM-252 and it's still 12v (12.0-12.1ish)... I take it this is not good news then and I just wasted $$ on a new power adapter? Can't measure the current drawn - no way for me to connect the meter in series
   
  edit: read the part about the screws/feet


----------



## kevin gilmore

you can CAREFULLY measure the high voltages here.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/sr252-1.jpg
   
  the left one is ground, and the next two are B+ and B-.
   
  I believe the electrolytic caps are either rated at 250 or 350 volts.
   
  With a suitable bench supply you can raise the input voltage a bit
  and meaure the voltage it takes to run the caps at about 85% of max
  rated voltage.
   
  On previous amps, 13 volts at more than 1 amps would raise the
  voltage 10% or more, and the thing definitely sounds better, and
  runs a bit hotter.
   
  Once you know the suitable voltage you can devise a power supply
  to supply that voltage.


----------



## spritzer

In my SRM-Xh the caps were 250V and 350V caps just barely fit.  The rails sit at about 200-225V with a 12VDC input with the maximum the transistors can handle.  I was running the amp with a 100V wallwart at CanJam so the rails were probably closer to 270V and it did sound pretty good, especially with the Lambda Nova Basic.  I haven't hooked it up since CJ though but if I have time I'll see how it performs at 300V. 
   
  I can't remember if I've posted these before but here are some pics:
   



   
  While changing the caps to 350V I also added a balanced input to the amp (these amps are all fully discrete, DC coupled designs and can be made fully balanced with just a few parts) via a Lemo plug and added a 4-gang pot.  That is a very nice TKD item which costs more then the amp... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Missing here is the spiffy top cover, powder coated silver.


----------



## Deadneddz

Wow, very nice Spritzer. I wish I could have listened to it myself, as I missed it at CJ.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Then again, i'd love to listen to my O2 with any amp right now while i'm still waiting for my BH. Boooooo dynamics, I miss stats dearly....


----------



## digger945

Quote: 





deadneddz said:


> Wow, very nice Spritzer. I wish I could have listened to it myself, as I missed it at CJ.


 
  Me too. And his Lundahl box with my amp also. Maybe next time.


----------



## spritzer

The Lundahl box is still in the US (Marc has it) so if you want to try it out, sending it your way shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## digger945

Oh yes, I would like to hear it. He is sending me something to work on anyways. Just whenever though.


----------



## spritzer

Feel free to work out when with Marc. 
   
  The Dynamight should be killer with one of those things.


----------



## transient orca

I just received to LNS, and I have several questions. First of all, there is a crack on the insulation just where the cable connects to the right driver? Is that a big concern? What's the best way to prevent the crack form growing? Second of all, The pivot pins that connect the left driver to the head band is a bit loose. I can partially pull them out of the sockets if I apply force to the plastic arms. The driver is not about to fall off, but I'd still like to know what I can do to remedy it. Finally, I hope the drivers are not too fragile. The ear pads were not correctly placed when i received the headphone, I had to tear them off and reposition them. I might have applied a little pressure to the fabric covered ear side of the drivers. I hope that would not cause any damage to the driver. I am just feeling a little paranoid after dropping $500 on my first pair of Stax.
   
  Alas, I cannot test the sound yet since I am still amp-less.


----------



## John Buchanan

TO,
  1. the arc to earcase pins should be able to be removed from their corresponding sockets with minimal force. Normal.
  2. A split in the cabling is not normal and may require a recabling.
  3. The glue holding the pads to the ear cases also became less adhesive on my LNS pair and required a new pair of pads eventually. The fabric is part of the ear pads, not the drivers. Presumably the metal grille under the fabric has not been bent, nor the dust cover been torn. Should be fine.
  That leaves the cable as the only likely long term big worry. IMHO, the LNS is a rather nice phone.


----------



## transient orca

Thanks
   
  About the pivot pins, they are a bit loose on one side but quite tight on the other driver. About the cable, it's not a huge crack and it's mostly on the plastic reinforcement part of the cable to driver connector. I am planning to wrap the section in electrical tape and perhaps try to put a bit of epoxy glue in and around the crack. It seems that the only place to do recabling is at Yama's. I was thinking about sending it to them and do a full inspection and repair, but I get a feeling that it's going to cost me as much as the headphone.


----------



## John Buchanan

At a guess, $200 including cable supply and fit, but email them and see to get a worst case scenario.


----------



## svyr

Thanks again. I got the new power suppy, but before I could check it, the the SRM-252 stopped turning on with the old one. I must have I must've screwed up the fuse when trying to take it apart before (maybe a bump, or maybe I could've short circuited it when one of the probes slipped (while it was under load)?). Now I've removed the cover as you and WilCox suggested and the fuse is indeed broken (not blown, the wire is broken, but nothing is blackened), so I'll have to replace it before trying the new power supply.
   
  BTW, for anyone wondering, the feet seem to be 're-sealable'.
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> you can CAREFULLY measure the high voltages here.
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/sr252-1.jpg
> 
> the left one is ground, and the next two are B+ and B-.
> ...


----------



## reiserFS

Quick question guys, I recently got hold of my first Stax set and have a question about the amp it comes with:
   

   
  So basically the amp says it needs a plug with (+)--(.----(-) polarity, though I only have one here with (+)---.)----(-). Should I get a step down converter to 110v or does this work as well? I'd really appreciate help on this matter.


----------



## svyr

*reiserFS,*
   
  There are at least two threads on the topic: 
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/441597/stax-basic-system-power-adaptor-eu#post_5963306
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/210476/srm-252-power-supply
   
  Basically - either get a transformer or get a 12v > 0.4A regulated power supply with center negative polarity. (eerrr, center positive polarity is not ok)
   
  I may have burnt my SRM-252a with a dodgy power supply very recently (my old wall wart works, but the unit clips (incidentally it may clip because the first psu is dodgy too). I replaced the fuse after connecting the new one, then tried the new one again and it burned another fuse), so the transformer ('voltage converter') might be a larger (not that a bench power supply is small, but wall warts are) and slightly more expensive but safer option?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





svyr said:


> *reiserFS,*
> 
> There are at least two threads on the topic:
> 
> ...


 

 Not a slightly chance to get a damn 12v 0.4A regulated power supply here with center negative polarity, not even on the web. I thought that this might happen and bought a 220/230 > 110/120 voltage converter from eBay. Why the heck is it that hard to find a PSU?
  
  Edit: Just read that the converter outputs from 100 to 120v, I think I'll be fine!


----------



## transient orca

EXStata builders are hard to come by. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I just spent $650 on a SRM-T1S. That is about $150 more than a C series SRM-1/MK2 that I could have bought. I hope I made the right choice.


----------



## Lornecherry

> I just spent $650 on a SRM-T1S. That is about $150 more than a C series SRM-1/MK2 that I could have bought. I hope I made the right choice.


 
   
  You did. I have two of the T1's and they often run 24/7 without incident. Unless you are willing to go to the big Woo or BHSE at 8 times the price, I suspect there's not much better to drive Lambda's or even 404's.
   
  And, should out-grow or even dislike the amp, it will be snapped up instantly on the used market. It is, simply, one of Stax's best designs, provided you are not using it to drive 007's, which require a fair bit more power.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> At a guess, $200 including cable supply and fit, but email them and see to get a worst case scenario.


 

 Well, I emailed Yamas and there is no reply. What other options do I have if I want to do some serious restoration? I'd really like this $500 investment to last a long while. The crack on the cable insulation is tiny but worrisome nonetheless. I also want to make sure that there is nothing amiss with the drivers and clean up the driver housing a bit. I don't think I can do much myself without detailed pictorial or video guide.


----------



## Currawong

The T1S is a great amp for the Lambdas. It's just a tad on the sweet side of neutral, though it wont deliver tight bass, it will still scale nicely with the quality of your source, especially as it has balanced inputs.  $650 is a good price I reckon.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The T1S is a great amp for the Lambdas. It's just a tad on the sweet side of neutral, though it wont deliver tight bass, it will still scale nicely with the quality of your source, especially as it has balanced inputs.  $650 is a good price I reckon.


 

 Sherwood gave me a hard time when I compared his T1 to the prototype Woo GES and said the T1 bass was not as tight as the GES, but I did feel the T1 sounded very close to the prototype GES in all other areas.


----------



## hifidk

I really liked my T1S as well. Even O2 sounded decent with the amp but it lacked that last bit of punch in the bass area. I have never tried the amp with lambda but just about everyone in this forum said they sound good out of this amp.
   
  Anyway, my amp is now on its way to transient orca


----------



## DyBre

what about the T1S as compared to T1? are they any major differences in sound quality besides the balanced input?


----------



## hifidk

Quote: 





dybre said:


> what about the T1S as compared to T1? are they any major differences in sound quality besides the balanced input?


 

 I have heard that they are basically the same amp other than balanced input.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





hifidk said:


> I have heard that they are basically the same amp other than balanced input.


 
   
  That's also what I thought.


----------



## Stein

I'm embarrassed to say I still have yet to find a power adapter for my srm252. :/
   
  The only people I've seen have the same problem as me are Europeans who just get a 100-120v transformer.
   
  Is our 120v electricity really enough to damage the amp when the power adapter is supposed to draw 100v?


----------



## transient orca

Since the the internet is really awash with cheap power supplies that fit your basic specs (120V AC to 12V DC, 500mA), I presume you are looking for a high performance linear power supply. You might consider commission somebody to build you a TREAD or some other DIY designs.


----------



## Stein

I don't think I'm looking for anything special, just for a decent adapter for my amp because mine won't work in America. I've found a couple adapters that are center-negative and seem like they would do the job, but I'm not totally sure. Also, it seems very difficult to find a linear power supply that's center-negative for a reasonable price. Are they all extremely expensive, or am I just looking in the wrong places? I just want something that'll work for my amp and work safely.
   
  Would this do the job?
  http://www.officebeyond.com/da12010an.html
  Does to 10VA on the Stax adapter matter at all? This one doesn't seem to list anything.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





stein said:


> I don't think I'm looking for anything special, just for a decent adapter for my amp because mine won't work in America. I've found a couple adapters that are center-negative and seem like they would do the job, but I'm not totally sure. Also, it seems very difficult to find a linear power supply that's center-negative for a reasonable price. Are they all extremely expensive, or am I just looking in the wrong places? I just want something that'll work for my amp and work safely.
> 
> Would this do the job?
> http://www.officebeyond.com/da12010an.html
> Does to 10VA on the Stax adapter matter at all? This one doesn't seem to list anything.


 

 It should work just fine. I could not find any reference to 10VA on the web page. The maximum current output rating doesn't have to be exactly 500mA. It just have to be higher than that.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> There is no updated schematic for the BH.  One of these days.
> Maybe after i finally finish the electrostatic portable.
> 
> The old power supply definitely works great.
> ...


 
  Hi Kevin!
  Any chance for an updated DIY BH ?
  Thanks!
  --j


----------



## n3rdling

Anybody wanna buy some Lambdas/T1/T1S off me? 
   
  I believe the closest to an updated BH would be Kerry's boards.


----------



## Stein

Great, thanks a lot. I guess I was just put under the impression I needed a linear supply or my amp wouldn't work right. Maybe now I can actually hear the darn thing. >_>
  
  Quote: 





transient orca said:


> It should work just fine. I could not find any reference to 10VA on the web page. The maximum current output rating doesn't have to be exactly 500mA. It just have to be higher than that.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Anybody wanna buy some Lambdas/T1/T1S off me?
> 
> I believe the closest to an updated BH would be Kerry's boards.


 

 hi milo!
  what are these??
  thanks!


----------



## n3rdling

Somebody with more knowledge can probably fill you in better than me, but I believe Kerry took the original BH design and made boards that improved the heat dissipation of the originals.  I don't think these are for sale though.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





stein said:


> Great, thanks a lot. I guess I was just put under the impression I needed a linear supply or my amp wouldn't work right. Maybe now I can actually hear the darn thing. >_>


 
  Wouldn't it have been easier to get a transformer and use the stock adapter? At least that's what I'm going to use, since you can't find a single center negative adapter here in Germany.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





stein said:


> I don't think I'm looking for anything special, just for a decent adapter for my amp because mine won't work in America. I've found a couple adapters that are center-negative and seem like they would do the job, but I'm not totally sure. Also, it seems very difficult to find a linear power supply that's center-negative for a reasonable price. Are they all extremely expensive, or am I just looking in the wrong places? I just want something that'll work for my amp and work safely.
> 
> Would this do the job?
> http://www.officebeyond.com/da12010an.html
> Does to 10VA on the Stax adapter matter at all? This one doesn't seem to list anything.


 

 If you really want to know, 10 VA is a power rating which basically means 10 Watt(P=VA). Conversely, a 10 Watt power draw at 12V DC equals 830 mA current output. By the way I don't see 10VA mentioned on Stax webpage.
   
  Strangely, the SRM-252 is labeled as 4 Watt 12V DC, which means a current draw of 300 mA. If the stock adaptor is rated at 12V DC and 500 mA, it's probably for the sake of allowing some power overhead.
   
  I am no electrical expert so feel free to correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## transient orca

Are the Lambda drivers are glued on to the aluminum baffles, or are they attached in some more secure manners? What are the chances of the drivers becoming loose in the housing?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Are the Lambda drivers are glued on to the aluminum baffles, or are they attached in some more secure manners? What are the chances of the drivers becoming loose in the housing?


 
  They're glued IIRC. I have heard of them becoming loose after years, though you'd better ask someone more experienced in here.


----------



## Stein

Well, it seems much easier to find a European to 100-120v transformer than it is to find a 100 -> 120v transformer, at least it was for me. It ended up just being an issue of finding one the correct polarity and hoping the rest of the specs are just fine. 
   
  Also, if Orca knows what he's talking about (and it seems like he does), the adapter that I ordered will work perfectly.
  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Wouldn't it have been easier to get a transformer and use the stock adapter? At least that's what I'm going to use, since you can't find a single center negative adapter here in Germany.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Well, I emailed Yamas and there is no reply. What other options do I have if I want to do some serious restoration? I'd really like this $500 investment to last a long while. The crack on the cable insulation is tiny but worrisome nonetheless. I also want to make sure that there is nothing amiss with the drivers and clean up the driver housing a bit. I don't think I can do much myself without detailed pictorial or video guide.


 


 Try emailing/calling their service division Accutech instead.


----------



## transient orca

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Try emailing/calling their service division Accutech instead.


 

 I did exactly that.


----------



## tigermilk

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/447175/stax-2050a-srm-252-information
   
  Jameco wall wart is what you want for the 252


----------



## transient orca

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pa=1953655&productId=1953655&cid=PDFCD02122


----------



## Stein

Well, you guys are just wonderful. That's the kind of answer I was hoping for originally. 
  I'll order that one and send the other one I ordered back when it gets here.
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## Carlosfandango

New to Stax sounds... so started very cheap and cheerful with SR-44 system.
   
  I have a question regarding the SRD-4 adaptor, it has 4 coloued cables going into the 3 pin (UK) plug.
   
  Black, White, Green and Red.
   
  What goes where??
   
  Help most appretiated.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I did exactly that.


 

   Aye, Yama Service is vaporware.  I had no problem dealing with Stax's UK reseller/service distributor[size=small]...[/size]
   
  [size=small][size=10pt]HighEnd Workshop[/size][/size]
  [size=small][size=10pt]60 Beech Road[/size][/size]
  [size=small][size=10pt]High Wycombe[/size][/size]
  [size=small][size=10pt]Buckinghamshire[/size][/size]
  [size=small][size=10pt]HP11 1RY[/size][/size]
  [size=small][size=10pt]Tel: +44 1494 752171[/size][/size]
  service@highendworkshop.co.uk
   
  My O2 are actually there right now for a recable and pad replacement.


----------



## Rudivanb

Have a mint Stax SR-44 set at home, borrowed from a friend, consisting of a SRD-4 adapter and SR-40 electret. Is there somebody whom I can mail the jpg to, for adding it to the wiki.faust3d.com ?
   


 Thanks to Spritzer I have now a SRD-6 refitted with a new bias board, so it outputs the Pro bias. Thank you Spritzer and others here for recommending the SR-Lambda Signature, found one which is coming to me, so hopefully I can enjoy the Stax sound next week, might like it


----------



## Rudivanb

The leaflet inside the SR-44 box says: PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS !
 .....In a district of Africa an old man was found who has kept same sensivity and frequency responce as lad's and its cause is that he has lived in an extremely quiet noiseless environment.(By Medical Department of Osaka University)


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





rudivanb said:


> Have a mint Stax SR-44 set at home, borrowed from a friend, consisting of a SRD-4 adapter and SR-40 electret. Is there somebody whom I can mail the jpg to, for adding it to the wiki.faust3d.com ?
> 
> Thanks to Spritzer I have now a SRD-6 refitted with a new bias board, so it outputs the Pro bias. Thank you Spritzer and others here for recommending the SR-Lambda Signature, found one which is coming to me, so hopefully I can enjoy the Stax sound next week, might like it


 

 I thought the purpose of the wiki was that users can edit and create new pages themselves?


----------



## Carlosfandango

Quote: 





carlosfandango said:


> New to Stax sounds... so started very cheap and cheerful with SR-44 system.
> 
> I have a question regarding the SRD-4 adaptor, it has 4 coloued cables going into the 3 pin (UK) plug.
> 
> ...


 


 Geez... ignore me... I'm being dim.
   
  Sorted.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





rudivanb said:


> Have a mint Stax SR-44 set at home, borrowed from a friend, consisting of a SRD-4 adapter and SR-40 electret. Is there somebody whom I can mail the jpg to, for adding it to the wiki.faust3d.com ?


 

  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I thought the purpose of the wiki was that users can edit and create new pages themselves?


 
   
  This, or if you really need to send a pm to faust2d


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





solude said:


> Aye, Yama Service is vaporware.  I had no problem dealing with Stax's UK reseller/service distributor[size=small]...[/size]
> 
> [size=small][size=10pt]HighEnd Workshop[/size][/size]
> [size=small][size=10pt]60 Beech Road[/size][/size]
> ...


 

 Just wondering why you sent them to the UK instead of Japan for cable replacement?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Just wondering why you sent them to the UK instead of Japan for cable replacement?


 

 Maybe its easier communicating in English?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Maybe its easier communicating in English?


 

 Kuboten can assist in repairs if they're being sent to Japan.


----------



## svyr

heh, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  About the clipping:
   
  something weird is going on: past around 3 o'clock volume knob, the srm-300 also starts clipping like my srm-252a...
  With the SRS-2050A I thought it was maybe the earspeakers, the amp or the power supply...
   
   
  Except the SRM-300 has its own power supply. And this happens with both the SR-202 and 404...And with 3 sources - musiland 02 us, aune mk2 with OPA2604 (sound cuts off at 3/4) or LME49720 (starts clipping like the other two), or my Sony MD system.
   
  Incidentally it happens in two different rooms 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (at this point I'm open to mystical explanations).
   
   
  The same tracks are completely fine using the Aune mk2 + denon D5000 (Audacity shows no clipping regions in the tracks.)







In other words I have a slight suspicion that my SRM-252 wasn't faulty and something else entirely is going on.
   
   
   
  Would be people be so kind to try an extract from the Mozart concerto that's clipping (among other tracks) and post whether it happens on their setup (and what driver unit, earspeakers they use, as well as what the stax driver unit is plugged into) or not at high volumes (vol knob at 3 o'clock+) : http://rapidshare.com/files/408121060/Track_1.flac (flac, apprx 500kb and 8s)
   
  p.s. yes, normally 12 o'clock on the volume knob is really loud, but some classical music sounds somewhat quiet at even 3 o'clock.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Maybe its easier communicating in English?


 

 That and shipping to the UK is less.


----------



## Rudivanb

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I thought the purpose of the wiki was that users can edit and create new pages themselves?


 

 You are right, will find out how it works to add it to the Wiki, I admit being too hasty / lazy


----------



## hifidk

I have received SRD7 that I have bought from Spritzer a couple days ago. This little amp connected to a cheap vintage integrated amp sounds really good. I am actually quite surprised because many people here said SRD7 has its limitation when used with 007. Now, I haven't heard BHSE or WES or KGSS so my experience is very limited but I think this combo is quite comparable to 717. Maybe it is due to Spritzer's modifications?
   
  I could easily tell the difference between 717 and T1S, especially in bass area. However, SRD7 is much closer to 717 performance level. At this stage, I don't even know which one I would keep (until I get my hands on KGSSHV). I guess I need to spend some more time comparing two. I might really sell my 717 after getting the proper speaker amp for SRD7.


----------



## graben

Quote: 





hifidk said:


> I have received SRD7 that I have bought from Spritzer a couple days ago. This little amp connected to a cheap vintage integrated amp sounds really good. I am actually quite surprised because many people here said SRD7 has its limitation when used with 007. Now, I haven't heard BHSE or WES or KGSS so my experience is very limited but I think this combo is quite comparable to 717. Maybe it is due to Spritzer's modifications?
> 
> I could easily tell the difference between 717 and T1S, especially in bass area. However, SRD7 is much closer to 717 performance level. At this stage, I don't even know which one I would keep (until I get my hands on KGSSHV). I guess I need to spend some more time comparing two. I might really sell my 717 after getting the proper speaker amp for SRD7.


 

 I too like the sound of my SRD7 mk2 better than my T1S. I don't know if this is due to preferring SS to tube or just because I really like the sound of my amplifier.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





svyr said:


> heh,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 No clipping at all with the provided flac. SR-202 with a SRM-252A on a step-down transformer here.


----------



## hifidk

Quote: 





graben said:


> I too like the sound of my SRD7 mk2 better than my T1S. I don't know if this is due to preferring SS to tube or just because I really like the sound of my amplifier.


 

 I bet they sound even better with Luxman amp that you have paired with SRD7!


----------



## graben

Quote: 





hifidk said:


> I bet they sound even better with Luxman amp that you have paired with SRD7!


 

 Luxman plus Stax is a pretty hard combo to beat.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





graben said:


> Luxman plus Stax is a pretty hard combo to beat.


 

 Sweet. I've got an old Luxman amp, but I havent tried it with my SRD7 yet


----------



## kevin gilmore

All of the stax amps are fully DC coupled. So if your source for some reason has even as low as 50 millivolts of DC, then
  when you turn up the volume knob, the dc is amplified just like the ac, and the amp clips either the top or bottom rail.
   
  If you put a pair of decent 10uf non-electrolytic caps in the input line and the problem goes away, its probably DC coming
  from your source.
   
  Remember the amps have a dc gain of more than 50db, so it does not take much dc to cause problems.


----------



## svyr

thanks very much, Kevin - sounds very feasible. 
   
  mmm, any recommendation for 'decent' 10uf non-el caps?  (also, what voltage rating, I take it line in is <5V ?). Also, which non-el type do you mean? (ebay comes up with strange vintage things like USSR paper caps, or oil caps...
   
  edit: is this one ok? http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RZ6648&CATID=51&form=CAT&SUBCATID=874
   
  edit2: Thanks to the people who helped by dl the file and posting what happens on their system 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> All of the stax amps are fully DC coupled. So if your source for some reason has even as low as 50 millivolts of DC, then
> when you turn up the volume knob, the dc is amplified just like the ac, and the amp clips either the top or bottom rail.
> 
> If you put a pair of decent 10uf non-electrolytic caps in the input line and the problem goes away, its probably DC coming
> ...


----------



## kevin gilmore

no no no... not tantalum, thats worse than electrolytics...  you want to figure out what the problem is, not cause
  more trouble.
   
  something like this
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS4-10-50-10P15/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvOcEq4GH1AAiNyTkPXydnes7BJaCyTggI%3d
   
  anything really non-polarized.   mylar, polyester, polyprop. or if you want to get silly, teflon.
  there are also some hi value ceramics which work great.
   
  given the input impedance you can probably just get 1uf caps.
   
  Anything laying around can be used just to test.


----------



## ztsen

Hi, i have one issue for my SRM-252. If I turn off the SRM-252 and turn again in short period of time, I always encounter the power red led flashing and hear a continuos pop sound. What I did is just turn off again and wait a bit longer then turn on. Is this normal?


----------



## wink

> Jiinh posted:-
> Originally Posted by *graben*
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Sweet. I've got an old Luxman amp, but I havent tried it with my SRD7 yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Jin,
  the SRD7 and HE60 @ 404LE sound good powered by the mongrel. (80W Class A balanced amp)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

What about a portable Vcap dock for iMod, which has Vcaps for blocking DC offset?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





wink said:


> Jin,
> the SRD7 and HE60 @ 404LE sound good powered by the mongrel. (80W Class A balanced amp)


 

 Your HE60s probably sound nice with any amp.
   
  (except they didnt sound that impressive when I had them plugged into the SRM-252)
   
  I wish I could afford some HE60s...


----------



## airheadair

If there is any further interest in the Stax F81 thread I have some information to share.  I just had my F83's rebuilt.


----------



## airheadair

Anyone interested in Stax (or Quad) loudspeakers should check out Electrostatic Solutions, run by Kent McCollum:  Electrostatic Solutions  He knows a lot about them, and just finished rebuilding my F83's.  There is a resistor on the RC network board that is very prone to failure, after which the speaker panels are in danger.  He can replace the RC board,
  the power supply, and even the panels themselves.  
   
  What did Faust2D decide?


----------



## jaycalgary

Just saw Stax SR Omega on Audiogon. Are these really the holy grail of Stax electrostatic? The guy wants $5959 so not really in my budget but is that really how much these are worth? From what I have read so far it sounded
  like the O2 Mk1 were the ones to get.


----------



## momomo6789

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Just saw Stax SR Omega on Audiogon. Are these really the holy grail of Stax electrostatic? The guy wants $5959 so not really in my budget but is that really how much these are worth? From what I have read so far it sounded
> like the O2 Mk1 were the ones to get.


 

 3500-4200 is where they always sit on yahoo auctions.


----------



## reiserFS

Anyone had the chance to listen to the High-Amp DIY Hybrid Amp yet? Getting one soon and it looks like it is above the T1S in terms of performance.


----------



## cosmopragma

I've owned such an amp for several months.
  It's certainly better than your tiny Stax amp.
  I can't compare it to the discontinued SRM-T1S though.
  Makes more sense to ask the guys at the german hifi-forum.de since most of the amps in existence were built by by Rille for the german community but I guess you are a member there anyway.
  Which one do you get?
  The one Sven is offering lately?
  In any case : if you ever need spare or replacement tubes or want to try the joys of tube rolling shoot me a PM.
  I still do have a dozens of those tubes (many manufacturers and makes).
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Anyone had the chance to listen to the High-Amp DIY Hybrid Amp yet? Getting one soon and it looks like it is above the T1S in terms of performance.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Just saw Stax SR Omega on Audiogon. Are these really the holy grail of Stax electrostatic? The guy wants $5959 so not really in my budget but is that really how much these are worth? From what I have read so far it sounded
> like the O2 Mk1 were the ones to get.


 
   
  I believe less than 600 pairs were ever made so they are extremely rare which is one reason they command such a high price.
   
  Quote: 





momomo6789 said:


> 3500-4200 is where they always sit on yahoo auctions.


 

A pair sold for 220001JPY yesterday (25 July) on Yahoo Auctions to a kuboten user. At the current exchange rate that's slightly more than 2500USD but I've seen them sell for double that price, or even more.


----------



## nattonrice

They did indeed.
   
  I also know the funny man that purchased them... I'm sure he'll see this soon.


----------



## jjinh

The guy who posted the thread "WTB: Blue Hawaii"? He mentions recently acquiring a pair of SR-Omegas...


----------



## jaycalgary

Hi Jin how are the Sigma Pro's working out? I probably just did not have enough amp to power them properly. That and how different in sound compared to my Lambda Signature they are but the Lambda Signature is probably considered very bright and forward in the midrange in comparison.  Do you think the O2 Mk1 or Mk2 would be the ones to go for?


----------



## jjinh

Hey! I just had my first detailed listen to the sigmas yesterday.

 Yes the lambda sigs do seem a bit brighter than the sigmas but I'm not sure about being more forward. But anyway I like forward.
   
  Going off memory I prefer the sigma's mids as I recall the lambda sigs sound a bit thin in comparison (I could be wrong as I havent had a detailed listen to my lambda sigs yet. I've only just finished cleaning them of all this deteriorated foam and putting them back together).
   
  The sigmas have this big, big but realistic soundstage and some good bass to boot. They just feel a bit insecure on my head. Anyway I certainly enjoyed them yesterday 
   
  So what are you looking to find in the SR-007s (compared to the lambda sigs)?


----------



## jaycalgary

Glad to hear you restored the foam maybe that was having a negative effect on the sound. The bass did have a lot more impact. They did feel loose and the pads are much thinner that probably makes it hard to have a air tight seal. If I buy
  O2 I would hope for better everything compared to Lambda Sig considering the price and would need at least Srm-717. I see them in the for sale forums here and one set is available near by. I have another pair of Lambda Sig that look to be in great shape compared to the ones I have on that will be here in a few days. Isn't the O2 Mk1 or Mk2 a big step up in sound quality?


----------



## harj

Would you Stax lovers be able to give me some input on making a decision? The dilemma is, if you had the choice of buying the;
   
  Lamda pro + srd-x for  £350 
                   or
  SRS 2050 ii system + stax extension lead for £300
   
  What would you choose?
  Are these prices fair?
  Would I be able to get something better for same amount of money?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





harj said:


> Would you Stax lovers be able to give me some input on making a decision? The dilemma is, if you had the choice of buying the;
> 
> Lamda pro + srd-x for  £350
> or
> ...


 

 I'd take the 2050II system.  I thought the Lambda pro mids were recessed in relation to the bass and treble, and the SRD-X is not very resolving or refined.  I'm not sure about the prices, but the 2050 doesn't look too far off.  I really like the vintage SR-Lambda with SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, but I can't say if it would be better than the 2050 (it will beat the Lambda pro with SRD-X).  The vintage stuff can have more problems with worn pads, channel imbalance or worn out caps in the amp.


----------



## jaycalgary

Just received Lambda Signatures from a fellow Headfier today. Top notch proper condition. Its an experience in itself hearing how Stax models come to life after not being in service for a while. This must be them charging up
  but for the first while the volume was much lower than my other pair would be. Then there was one thing really strange. I was just starting to play Billy Joel "Piano man" and it started out distorted and I turned the volume up and
  sound got louder for a second but went down to be quiet even though the volume was up. I pulled the plug on the new headphones and disconnected the the usb from laptop. I ruined a my Ipod Touch last night, a glass of juice
  spilled on it while it was plugged into the usb and it shut itself down for good. Just glad it didn't take the laptop out with it.


----------



## spritzer

Does anybody here have a SRM-600 amp?  I really need a picture of the underside of the main PCB so that any T1/006t can be modified to use ECC99's...


----------



## reiserFS

I'm quite happy with my SR-202's, but was thinking about getting a SR-303 or SR-404. Did anyone own both systems and can compare them? [size=xx-small] [/size]


----------



## svyr

I currently have SR-202 + SR-404 + SRM-300 with 2 PRO-bias sockets to drive both at the same time. 
   
  On this setup SR-202 is somewhat analytical and bass lean, while SR-404 has a fuller sound/more bass, but still as detailed (although others will probably argue that the fuller sound probably masks some detail)
   
  Coming from Denon 1/2 markl modded D5000, I didn't enjoy SR-202 since orchestral music lacked body. On the other hand SR-202 sounds similar to the DT48 I had, except for not having recessed highs (or lows for the purpose of comparing to vintage DT48 8 ohm).
   
  So IMO, it's really up to your preference for analytical or fuller sound.
   
  I'm going to sell both the D5000 and SRS-2050a, but I've seen people sell their 404 and keep the 202 (albeit with a better amp)
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I'm quite happy with my SR-202's, but was thinking about getting a SR-303 or SR-404. Did anyone own both systems and can compare them? [size=xx-small] [/size]


 

  p.s - keep in mind your setup - what this will all sound like with tube or discrete amp? The SRM-300 currently has an LME49720HA
   
  p.s.s. just volume wise, srm-252a drives SR-404 exactly to the same volume as SR-202.


----------



## svyr

Quote:


kevin gilmore said:


> All of the stax amps are fully DC coupled. So *if your source for some reason has even as low as 50 millivolts of DC,* then
> when you turn up the volume knob, the dc is amplified just like the ac, and *the amp clips either the top or bottom rail.*
> 
> If you put a pair of *decent 10uf non-electrolytic caps in the input line and the problem goes away*, its probably DC coming
> ...


  Thank you for the help, Kevin. 
   
  Both driver units still clip with the line cable with a 3uf polyester-film 60v cap soldered into the active wire, and volume at the same level (3 o'clock).
   
  I've measured the input wire voltage, and it's 25.3mV max. (avg of about 10mV, 20-25 = clipping)
   
  Quote: 





ztsen said:


> Hi, i have one issue for my SRM-252. If I turn off the SRM-252 and turn again in short period of time, I always encounter the power red led flashing and hear a continuos pop sound. What I did is just turn off again and wait a bit longer then turn on. Is this normal?


 

  doesn't happen with my one


----------



## ztsen

Is the SRM-252 led flash a bit when you turn on? Will it due to the power adaptor? (Mod router adaptor)


----------



## svyr

The light on my one lights up straight away, regardless of when it was last turned off/on.There is a light 'pop' when I turn it on, but it's very short / by no means continuous.
   
  Could be because of the power adapter. What's your one rated as (V/A?), and have you measured the voltage under load or min/max voltage with a multimeter when turning it on?
  Quote: 





ztsen said:


> Is the SRM-252 led flash a bit when you turn on? Will it due to the power adaptor? (Mod router adaptor)


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





svyr said:


> I currently have SR-202 + SR-404 + SRM-300 with 2 PRO-bias sockets to drive both at the same time.
> 
> On this setup SR-202 is somewhat analytical and bass lean, while SR-404 has a fuller sound/more bass, but still as detailed (although others will probably argue that the fuller sound probably masks some detail)
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for your input, certainly sounds promising. I'm going to drive them with the High-Amp DIY Hybrid Amp.


----------



## svyr

and you posted a WTB for a sigma... So the question was sorta moot.
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Thanks for your input, certainly sounds promising. I'm going to drive them with the High-Amp DIY Hybrid Amp.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





svyr said:


> and you posted a WTB for a sigma... So the question was sorta moot.


 
  Sorry about that mate. I'm mainly looking into buying a SR-404 or SR-303 but also kinda want to try some vintage earspeakers


----------



## svyr

np, btw, not sure if you've seen the post, so:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/13620#post_6750334 
   
  I don't know how credible the claims there are (e.g. incorrectly stating the membrane size), and whether there was any placebo listening there, but yea...(this is re: 404 vs lambdas)
   
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Sorry about that mate. I'm mainly looking into buying a SR-404 or SR-303 but also kinda want to try some vintage earspeakers


 
   
   
  By the way, it looks like my SRM-300 and SRM-252a are fine, and so is my source. Talked to kevin gilmore (who was very helpful the entire way), he told me to measure the voltage on the R+/R- pins just before/after it clips (vol dial-wise), and it looks like the clipping happens because I'm simply trying to drive my earspeakers too loud on those tracks (2|3 o'clock+) (something about the VAC measured with the multimeter when clipping being consistent with the rail to rail voltage|max out voltage and hence clipping when it goes over). 
   
  So once again, thank you everyone for helping out with this, and especially kevin gilmore  .


----------



## spritzer

That is very loud from a 2V line level source...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Sorry about that mate. I'm mainly looking into buying a SR-404 or SR-303 but also kinda want to try some vintage earspeakers


 

 Havent heard the 303, 404 but most vintage stax are nice.
   
  Seen your wtb post. Good luck trying to find a pair of sigmas, it took me a while to find mine.


----------



## ztsen

Quote: 





svyr said:


> The light on my one lights up straight away, regardless of when it was last turned off/on.There is a light 'pop' when I turn it on, but it's very short / by no means continuous.
> 
> Could be because of the power adapter. What's your one rated as (V/A?), and have you measured the voltage under load or min/max voltage with a multimeter when turning it on?


 

 I dont have the multimeter. The label of the adaptor stated output 12V == 1A  12W max.


----------



## svyr

That should work, but if it's a bad quality unregulated one, then the voltage may fluctuate especially if the start current is more than the running current and if the adapter is rater lower than it states. (or so I'm told)
  
  Quote: 





ztsen said:


> I dont have the multimeter. The label of the adaptor stated output 12V == 1A  12W max.


----------



## Maxvla

Quote: 





svyr said:


> I currently have SR-202 + SR-404 + SRM-300 with 2 PRO-bias sockets to drive both at the same time.
> 
> On this setup SR-202 is somewhat analytical and bass lean, while SR-404 has a fuller sound/more bass, but still as detailed (although others will probably argue that the fuller sound probably masks some detail)
> 
> ...


 
  I've heard both side by side and preferred the SR-202 over the SR-404 quite easily. Used the SRM-313. As you say the 404 sounded fuller, but it didn't sound right to me, like a TV with the color adjustment too high.


----------



## graben

I also vote for the 202 over the 404.


----------



## jjinh

Interesting how many prefer the 202 over the 404s.
   
  I like the 202s but I havent heard the 404s myself. What do they actually sound like (or what's a pair of stax that sounds similar to the 404s)?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Interesting how many prefer the 202 over the 404s.
> 
> I like the 202s but I havent heard the 404s myself. What do they actually sound like (or what's a pair of stax that sounds similar to the 404s)?


 

 Closest sounding to the 404s are the 303s.


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Interesting how many prefer the 202 over the 404s.
> 
> I like the 202s but I havent heard the 404s myself. What do they actually sound like (or what's a pair of stax that sounds similar to the 404s)?


 
  The 202 with leather ear pads ( from the 404 LE ) sounds a lot like the LNS = very good.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## jjinh

Thanks for the replies!
    
  Quote:


graben said:


> Closest sounding to the 404s are the 303s.


 

 hmmmm, I havent heard the 303s either...

  
  Quote: 





bralk said:


> The 202 with leather ear pads ( from the 404 LE ) sounds a lot like the LNS = very good.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Tom


 
   
  I thought the LNS were quite nice but I didnt compare them back-to-back to my 202s when I had them on loan. I didnt think they sounded similar


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Thanks for the replies!
> 
> hmmmm, I havent heard the 303s either...
> 
> ...


 

 No they don´t. But when you mount the leather ear pads they do. These pads are significantly flatter then the
  original 202 pads.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## svyr

If you're a FR graph kind of guy, here's the graph:http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new#post_2712240 
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Interesting how many prefer the 202 over the 404s.
> 
> I like the 202s but I havent heard the 404s myself. What do they actually sound like (or what's a pair of stax that sounds similar to the 404s)?


 
  There's also a different one in the manual for the SR-202 titled 'signature' which I presume is for the SR-404. 
   
  Here's the graph from the manual for posterity (excuse the quality, the lighting and the camera weren't great):
   

   
*EDIT: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/13815#post_6821538 see the bold bit - I think this is the Lambda sig graph, not the SR-404 graph, despite it being in the sr-404/303/202 manual and saying signature.*


----------



## transient orca

I just measured the bias on my newly arrived T1S and read 6V on the right channel. Looks like I need to open it up to do some adjustment. How exactly do I open it anyway?
   
  I accidentally put a volt meter probe into the bias socket when I was measuring the right channel
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I didn't get shocked or anything. The reading obviously went off scale. I don't suppose this would cause any damage? A volt meter does not complete any circuits, so I don't see how it would harm the amp in any way. Please tell me I am right.


----------



## svyr

it might help if you refer to the middle pic of http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/317133/who-knows-what-the-pin-out-is-for-stax-and-sennheiser-electrostatics#post_5609792 and tell people how you measured pin-wise. 
  Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I just measured the bias on my newly arrived T1S and read 6V on the right channel. Looks like I need to open it up to do some adjustment. How exactly do I open it anyway?
> 
> I accidentally put a volt meter probe into the bias socket when I was measuring the right channel. I didn't get shocked or anything. The reading obviously went off scale. I don't suppose this would cause any damage? A volt meter does not complete any circuits, so I don't see how it would harm the amp in any way. Please tell me I am right.


----------



## transient orca

I measued left+ to left- =-0.5V; right+ to right- =5.5-6.5 V
   
  The accident happened when one probe is in right- and slid into the bias socket.


----------



## svyr

Why is the voltage so low? When I measured my SRM-300 for kevin, it was from 0-350v on +L/-L, for a test tone approx equal channel voltages. Did you have anything playing? (test tone maybe?)
  Quote: 





			
				transient orca said:
			
		

> measued left+ to left- =*-0.5V*; right+ to right- =5.5-6.5 V


 
  mmm, neg 0.5 volts? I thought it was 0-max voltage AC rms...


----------



## transient orca

I am measuring DC bias for the tubes which should be 0V (as close as possible) between + and -.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1


----------



## svyr

oops, sorry then. 
  Hope someone can tell you how to open the unit, so that you can adjust the TVRs, if people think *right- =5.5-6.5 V* does need adjusting (sounds like it does from the thread)
  Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I am measuring DC bias for the tubes which should be 0V (as close as possible) between + and -.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1


----------



## Maxvla

Quote: 





svyr said:


> If you're a FR graph kind of guy, here's the graph:http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new#post_2712240
> There's also a different one in the manual for the SR-202 titled 'signature' which I presume is for the SR-404.
> 
> Here's the graph from the manual for posterity (excuse the quality, the lighting and the camera weren't great):


 
  Interesting. I'd never realized how 'flat' (relatively) Stax are compared to dynamics. That bump between 1KHz and 2KHz must be the culprit that I didn't like in the SR-404. Anyone got a graph of the SR-202?


----------



## svyr

The graph I posted was from the SR-202/303/404 manual, so not unless someone measures it on their own, preferably with the sr-404, so a direct comparison is more feasible.
   
  On the other hand, here are the graphs from the stax manuals courtesy of faust2d wiki for LNSig and LSig
  http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//images/7/76/Stax_Lambda_Signature_FG.jpg
  http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//images/d/d3/LambdaNovaSig-graph.jpg
   
  As a benchmark against the graph I posted on the prev page http://assets.head-fi.org/b/bc/bccfd798_sr-404sig-frg.jpg Hopefully since all graphs are from Stax itself, they're done under comparable conditions (at the very least, the MIC is the same)
  
  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Interesting. I'd never realized how 'flat' (relatively) Stax are compared to dynamics. That bump between 1KHz and 2KHz must be the culprit that I didn't like in the SR-404. Anyone got a graph of the SR-202?


 
*edit: I think I'm wrong, and the graph in the manual is the Stax lambda sig graph NOT the SR-404. Look closely, they're the same . So the graph measured by someone posted on the first page of the new stax thread is probably a lot more correct. *


----------



## spritzer

Stax always calls the TOTL Lambda "Signature" even though it has some other name as well so it could be a graph for the SR-404 the LNS or the original Signature. 
   
  As for being flat, headphones should never measure flat as then they are highly colored to our ears due to the proximity of the drivers to the ears.  Read this...
  
  Quote: 





transient orca said:


> I just measured the bias on my newly arrived T1S and read 6V on the right channel. Looks like I need to open it up to do some adjustment. How exactly do I open it anyway?
> 
> I accidentally put a volt meter probe into the bias socket when I was measuring the right channel
> 
> ...


 

 6V is next to nothing but you are only measuring the balance between the two sections of each channel this way.  The real test is the offset which you measure from the + output to the ground. 
   
  As for opening up any of these amps, there are 4 screws on the sides of the chassis, remove them and lift the top off.  The pots should be marked balance and offset for each channel. 
   
  Ohh and the only possible damage is to your DMM, not the amp.


----------



## edstrelow

I just got a set of the White SR-5's.    These came with the SRD-6 adapter but I am running them through an SRM1Mk2 amp.
   
  Pretty impressive set of phones. No harshness, good bass and very smooth sounding.  So far everything I have heard through them has sounded good. About the only criticism I have at this point is a  slightly compressed soundstage something they share  with the 007!


----------



## ProjectDenz

Having clamping issues with my sr-202. They damn thing clamps my head to the extent that it becomes unbearable after 10 minutes? Anybody got any advice? Other than that they are amazing!
   
  The headband is made from plastic so I don't know how to stretch them without snapping them, and that is definitly a very expensive mistake to make


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I just got a set of the White SR-5's.    These came with the SRD-6 adapter but I am running them through an SRM1Mk2 amp.
> 
> Pretty impressive set of phones. No harshness, good bass and very smooth sounding.  So far everything I have heard through them has sounded good. About the only criticism I have at this point is a  slightly compressed soundstage something they share  with the 007!


 

 If ya like the white SR-5s, wait till you try the black SR-5NB Gold Edition - literally blow away the whities...truly a remarkable Stax phone!!!


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I just got a set of the White SR-5's.    These came with the SRD-6 adapter but I am running them through an SRM1Mk2 amp.
> 
> Pretty impressive set of phones. No harshness, good bass and very smooth sounding.  So far everything I have heard through them has sounded good. About the only criticism I have at this point is a  slightly compressed soundstage something they share  with the 007!


 

 Have bought a pair of SR-5 (standard, not the 'gold' edition) in v. good condition three weeks ago and I concur. One of the best phones for the price (of usually around $100 w/o adapter) - if you already have an amp or adapter. Love them clearly more than SR-X MKIII. Their extension in the highs and lows is not on par with the Lambdas and O2s and the frequency response in the mids seems somewhat bumpy to me, but they are musical and fun to listen to and still more neutral than other fun sounding phones. First I missed some low bass, but when I installed jmoney leather pads (those for Beyerdynamic DTs fit well) I was quite pleased. The soundstage is much smaller than HD800 or K701 but it is ok and not as as narrow and up front in as the one of Grados (without jumbo pads).


----------



## svyr

maybe a large tissue box (or something large to put it on) and an industrial (or high power hair) fan (to heat it)?
   
  Seems like the safest option after just a tissue box to stretch it on, since just stretching without heat didn't take for most of my headphones. 
   
  At the same time, it's still not completely safe - so be careful.
  Quote: 





projectdenz said:


> Having clamping issues with my sr-202. They damn thing clamps my head to the extent that it becomes unbearable after 10 minutes? Anybody got any advice? Other than that they are amazing!
> 
> The headband is made from plastic so I don't know how to stretch them without snapping them, and that is definitly a very expensive mistake to make


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





charliex said:


> If ya like the white SR-5s, wait till you try the black SR-5NB Gold Edition - literally blow away the whities...truly a remarkable Stax phone!!!


 


 I recalled that Stax put out some kind of Special Edition of the SR-5.  Do you know what makes them special?  Some one is currently selling an SR5NB Gold Pro model on Ebay, evidently a one-off modded and re-cabled phone, since I don't think Stax made a pro version.  Could be worth the $600 he wants for this.
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-SR-5NB-Gold-Pro-headphones-ONE-OFF-RARE-ITEM-/320568467849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item4aa35ea189

  
  Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Have bought a pair of SR-5 (standard, not the 'gold' edition) in v. good condition three weeks ago and I concur. One of the best phones for the price (of usually around $100 w/o adapter) - if you already have an amp or adapter. Love them clearly more than SR-X MKIII. Their extension in the highs and lows is not on par with the Lambdas and O2s and the frequency response in the mids seems somewhat bumpy to me, but they are musical and fun to listen to and still more neutral than other fun sounding phones. First I missed some low bass, but when I installed jmoney leather pads (those for Beyerdynamic DTs fit well) I was quite pleased. The soundstage is much smaller than HD800 or K701 but it is ok and not as as narrow and up front in as the one of Grados (without jumbo pads).
> 
> 
> 
> Can you clarify what these pads are and where you got them?


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Can you clarify what these pads are and where you got them?


 


 Lambskin pads made by JMoney Audio (http://www.jmoneyaudio.com/beyerpads.php). Excellent quality, but imo not very well suited for the Beyer DT770PE and DT880PE (didn't try them with the DT990PE). They are however nice for some phones with a similar form factor.


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I recalled that Stax put out some kind of Special Edition of the SR-5.  Do you know what makes them special?  Some one is currently selling an SR5NB Gold Pro model on Ebay, evidently a one-off modded and re-cabled phone, since I don't think Stax made a pro version.  Could be worth the $600 he wants for this.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-SR-5NB-Gold-Pro-headphones-ONE-OFF-RARE-ITEM-/320568467849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item4aa35ea189


 


 Looks like this is the phone that padam has on offer here for Euro 400 (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/498686).


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Looks like this is the phone that padam has on offer here for Euro 400 (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/498686).


 




  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I recalled that Stax put out some kind of Special Edition of the SR-5.  Do you know what makes them special?  Some one is currently selling an SR5NB Gold Pro model on Ebay, evidently a one-off modded and re-cabled phone, since I don't think Stax made a pro version.  Could be worth the $600 he wants for this.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-SR-5NB-Gold-Pro-headphones-ONE-OFF-RARE-ITEM-/320568467849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item4aa35ea189


 
   
  Not so sure why the high price tag - looks to be a heavily modded phone and based on description is no longer a SR-5NB (just in outside appearance).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





charliex said:


> If ya like the white SR-5s, wait till you try the black SR-5NB Gold Edition - literally blow away the whities...truly a remarkable Stax phone!!!


 

 I agree - fantastic phone.

  
  Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Have bought a pair of SR-5 (standard, not the 'gold' edition) in v. good condition three weeks ago and I concur. One of the best phones for the price (of usually around $100 w/o adapter) - if you already have an amp or adapter. Love them clearly more than SR-X MKIII. Their extension in the highs and lows is not on par with the Lambdas and O2s and the frequency response in the mids seems somewhat bumpy to me, but they are musical and fun to listen to and still more neutral than other fun sounding phones. First I missed some low bass, but when I installed jmoney leather pads (those for Beyerdynamic DTs fit well) I was quite pleased. The soundstage is much smaller than HD800 or K701 but it is ok and not as as narrow and up front in as the one of Grados (without jumbo pads).


 

 In my case I preferred the SR-X MkIII more than the white SR-5, but my SR-5 gold edition (black and gold) are better than either of those.  I'd say I like them about as much as my SR-Lambda normal bias.  The white SR-5 that I had were thinner and brighter sounding, and didn't seem any better than my 600 ohm AKG K240M.  The SR-3 I had were too rolled off in the bass and highs, although the mids were better than the white SR-5.
   
  The gold edition's soundstage is bigger than the SR-X MkIII and smaller than the SR-Lambda, but they have a more balanced frequency response than my SR-Lambda which make up for that.  And the gold edition has good imaging and instrument placement, while my Lambda sometimes sound a little nebulous.  I even prefer my SR-5 gold edition slightly more than my old Grado RS-1.  I once did a comparison of the SR-5 gold edition on an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro amp vs Grado RS-1 on a maxed Woo WA6 and the Stax were at least as good or better.  Then with my Woo GES amp the SR-5 gold edition passed up the RS-1.


----------



## n3rdling

I'd certainly hope they were better than those horrible headphones.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I'd certainly hope they were better than those horrible headphones.


 

 My RS-1 (old pair #667) had the APS V3 cable which brought them closer to the level of my old HP-1000.  That still wasn't enough to get me to keep them.  For the longest time I didn't sell them only because it helped to have an RS-1 for comparisons in reviews or testing amp synergy.  Finally that wasn't a good enough reason.


----------



## svyr

Does anyone have the SRM-1/mk-2 schematics/
   
  and or instructions on re-wiring the transformer to 240v from 100v?
   
  (it's one of those units http://assets.head-fi.org/c/c7/494x370px-LL-c78809eb_img6455v.jpg without a switch).
   
  I'm told both were posted, but I can't seem to find them.


----------



## spritzer

Here is the correct wiring:
   
  100v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the  ACplug+Brown+Green

 117v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple

 240v:
 Blue+White wire from the AC plug
 Purple+Gray
   
  Should work for all Stax amps.


----------



## svyr

Thanks,  spritzer !


----------



## sourced

[size=medium]Hello everybody! I recently acquired some SR-303s and an SRM-313. First, let me just say that I am _quite_ pleased. I was using SA5000s - underamped for sure, and instead of just finally buying an amp, I changed things up. I don't pretend to be an experienced reviewer, but sharing never hurt. Things I like, in order:
   

 These are insanely comfortable. Not 2 weeks ago I thought my sa5k's were very comfortable. Now I get confused when I put them on because it feels like I'm putting them on backwards, or something. They just don't sit naturally. I can't believe how weird they feel now, especially since they felt fine so recently. (side note: is there _anything_ out there more comfortable? omegas?)
 All of the instruments in a (good) recording can be heard very clearly, and at low volume. I don't ever have to turn up the volume to hear something that's getting drowned out. (I won't say that the sa5k's are worse in this regard - they're probably pretty good if I got them a nice amp, which I probably won't due to #1)
 There's no 'veil', but the music isn't 'in my head'. You can really feel guitar distortion on my sa5k's, but now I can just hear it sitting right outside my ear. I can very easily hear when the microphones clipped on a vocal, exactly how grainy the guitar amp's distortion is, etc. This isn't distinctly good or bad, but it gives me a new perspective, which I like.
 There's less harshness - part of this is being 'outside the head', part of it is the warmth (I'm coming from sa5k's, remember), but there are definitely records I can easily listen to that I couldn't stand on my er-4p's / sa5k's. (granted, the things I could stand I really liked - I like the fine line between being bright and harsh)
   
  The only thing I don't like is that they are the ugliest headphones I've ever put on my head. Now that I've gotten that out of the way, a couple questions:
   

 Is there some digest / index for the 2 stax threads? I've tried searching them (esp on headfi.qix.it), but it's generally, well, a mess. Also, the old thread seems dead, but it's been brought back from the dead - why isn't it locked?
 What's the deal with the foam? I've read it's not really necessary (search for 'cosmetic'). I've also read it keeps dust out. I've read a lot of things. Need I worry when it falls apart? (as you can see, mine's getting there..)
 Without the foam, is there anything between my ear and the stator? I can see a black mesh grid (plastic? metal? pictures attached below), but is that it? I'm not planning on keeping my 303s near my huge stash of small pointy things, but I just like to know exactly how fragile these are.
   
  One thought that struck me: if the Lambda design is decades old, why haven't other manufacturers realized such a design is _incredibly comfortable_? My mind, it is boggled. 
   

   
​[/size]


----------



## krmathis

sourced, welcome to "team Stax"! :lambda:
  The SR-303, like most/all Lambda models, are really great pair of headphones. Comfortable and lightweight as well.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





sourced said:


> [size=medium]Hello everybody! I recently acquired some SR-303s and an SRM-313. First, let me just say that I am _quite_ pleased. I was using SA5000s - underamped for sure, and instead of just finally buying an amp, I changed things up. I don't pretend to be an experienced reviewer, but sharing never hurt. Things I like, in order:
> 
> 
> These are insanely comfortable. Not 2 weeks ago I thought my sa5k's were very comfortable. Now I get confused when I put them on because it feels like I'm putting them on backwards, or something. They just don't sit naturally. I can't believe how weird they feel now, especially since they felt fine so recently. (side note: is there _anything_ out there more comfortable? omegas?)
> [/size]


 
   
  As much as I like the 202/303/404 (I want to buy a pair) the pads are too thin for my ears (they stick out far too much).  In comparison to the Omega 2, I find the Omega 2s are ridiculously comfortable.  Out of all the headphones I've tried/owned, I find them to be the most comfortable.  The supple leather band and pads feel like they're giving my head the most gentle of massages.


----------



## sourced

Quote: 





region2 said:


> I find the Omega 2s are ridiculously comfortable.  Out of all the headphones I've tried/owned, I find them to be the most comfortable.  The supple leather band and pads feel like they're giving my head the most gentle of massages.


 

 Sigh.. I was afraid/hoping someone would say that. Afraid in that now it's hard to get the idea of buying some omegas, but hoping in that there could be something better than what I have. I suppose I should find someone who owns a pair and try them (maybe this winter - I still need some time to 'hear' what I have, to identify the sound signature, more or less). I'm still wrapping my head around spending that much on headphones (let alone anything).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





sourced said:


> ​  ​


 
   
   
   
   

[*]  





> What's the deal with the foam? I've read it's not really necessary (search for 'cosmetic'). I've also read it keeps dust out. I've read a lot of things. Need I worry when it falls apart? (as you can see, mine's getting there..)


 

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

[*] Without the foam, is there anything between my ear and the stator? I can see a black mesh grid (plastic? metal? pictures attached below), but is that it? I'm not planning on keeping my 303s near my huge stash of small pointy things, but I just like to know exactly how fragile these are. 
   
   
   
   
 ​  ​ If you remove the inner foam you may hear a little more speed and sparkle from the sound, although possibly making the phones too bright.  I believe this foam is  necessary because there is no other dust cover on this side.​  ​ I recommend removing the foam on the back sides of the drivers.  On my  Lambdas (404, Signature) this much improves the soundfield making it wider and more open sounding.  It also gets rid of a certain amount of mid/high etch in the sound.http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas​


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





sourced said:


> Sigh.. I was afraid/hoping someone would say that. Afraid in that now it's hard to get the idea of buying some omegas, but hoping in that there could be something better than what I have. I suppose I should find someone who owns a pair and try them (maybe this winter - I still need some time to 'hear' what I have, to identify the sound signature, more or less). I'm still wrapping my head around spending that much on headphones (let alone anything).


 
   
  fwiw (with exception of the 404LE which are still a bit tight on my head) I actually find my lambdas more comfortable than my SR-007.


----------



## sourced

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> fwiw (with exception of the 404LE which are still a bit tight on my head) I actually find my lambdas more comfortable than my SR-007.


 
  Yes! Haha I'm still very much in the 'honeymoon period', so it's hard to fathom how anything could best these, but I still like to know what I might like. I'll have to try to pique my curiosity eventually and hear what all the fuss is about with the 007s.

 Quote:


edstrelow said:


> If you remove the inner foam you may hear a little more speed and sparkle from the sound, although possibly making the phones too bright.  I believe this foam is  necessary because there is no other dust cover on this side.
> 
> I recommend removing the foam on the back sides of the drivers.  On my  Lambdas (404, Signature) this much improves the soundfield making it wider and more open sounding.  It also gets rid of a certain amount of mid/high etch in the sound.


 
  Well I'm not really concerned about these being 'too bright' right now. I'd say that if anything, more brightness wouldn't be too bad. Thanks for the outside foam tip - I might try that someday (although I can't imagine taking these apart anytime soon..).
   
  Also, what do you mean by 'treble etch'? I tried searching for this term and found some references on headwize, but it seems it might've been coined in a darth nut review, but I couldn't find the original (404'd).


----------



## gilency

A lot of people have complained here about the treble edge. I have owned the 404's before and found them very enjoyable. I may eventually get me another pair.


----------



## Maxvla

Quote:  





> but it seems it might've been coined in a darth nut review, but I couldn't find the original (404'd).


 

 It's not coined in DN's review, but here's a link if you need it.
   
STAX SR-007 (Omega II) ... A Review After 4 Years Of Ownership - Head-Fi.org Community


----------



## spritzer

That's the later review, here is the original but people had been talking about the ESP "etch" long before that was posted.


----------



## sourced

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> It's not coined in DN's review, but here's a link if you need it.
> 
> STAX SR-007 (Omega II) ... A Review After 4 Years Of Ownership - Head-Fi.org Community


 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's the later review, here is the original but people had been talking about the ESP "etch" long before that was posted.


 

 Hrm. I've read both of those, but neither specifically mentions 'etch'. Am I just being dense here? I apple+f'd and nothing came up. Does having 'treble etch' mean .. WAIT I found it! In 
 Stax Signature and Omega 2 Quick Impressions 




    
  Quote: 





shivohum said:


> Darth Nut, someone who is a Stax Omega 2 owner , described it this way:
> 
> "Treble etch is a very fine metallic texture overlaid on the sound of instruments. The first time I heard it, I thought 'Wow! So much detail!' But actually it wasn't real detail, it was some kind of added texture."
> 
> This texture is part of what makes the 4040 _sound_ like a headphone reproducing music, instead of live music. The etch makes the music sound over-detailed, sometimes in the wrong places, a little too forced and a bit artificial. It struck me in my listening that this "extra detail" sometimes makes voices, among probably other things, sound unnatural, too. You can really hear the difference in this respect with the Omega.


----------



## krmathis

Taken from the original Stax thread.
  
  Quote: 





			
				pipi5867 said:
			
		

> STAX new product--SR-507 will come in September!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  So, another Lambda 'phone coming up. Wonder how much this one have in common or differ from the previous models, perhaps especially the SR-404 Limited.
  Great news anyhow! :lambda:


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I wonder if they sound like the 404LE.


----------



## Turko

I think sr-507 totaly different design than any other lamda.....we wil see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   I hope ıt s closer to sr-00*7* than lamda...50*7 *?


----------



## lucozade

Quote: 





krmathis said:


> Taken from the original Stax thread.
> 
> 
> So, another Lambda 'phone coming up. Wonder how much this one have in common or differ from the previous models, perhaps especially the SR-404 Limited.
> Great news anyhow! :lambda:


 
  looks interesting


----------



## ztsen

Quote: 





krmathis said:


> Taken from the original Stax thread.
> 
> 
> So, another Lambda 'phone coming up. Wonder how much this one have in common or differ from the previous models, perhaps especially the SR-404 Limited.
> Great news anyhow! :lambda:


 

 Looking forward for the new model


----------



## Maxvla

Is this the top of the line lamda?


----------



## spritzer

One has to assume the drivers are still Lambda but this isn't the TOTL model, that would be the 4070.  I must say I'm quite baffled why Stax simply didn't use the 4070 frame but also clamp the Lambda drivers in an aluminum frame to maximize their potential...


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





turko said:


> I think sr-507 totaly different design than any other lamda.....we wil see.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I don't know how that will be possible. For one thing the frame is plastic which is just terrible compared to the rigid SR-007 frame.


----------



## jjinh

39000TWD (approx. 1200USD) for the SR-507s?
   
  Maybe their prices are ridiculous like here in Australia. Else hopefully they are a big upgrade over the SR-404s.


----------



## Currawong

I honestly doubt they will be different to the 404LE. I like the newer look, but spritzer's point is a good one about the frame.


----------



## padam

New picture:
   

   
  Frequency Responce: 7-41,000Hz
 Impedance: 145kohm at 10kHz
 Responcibility: 101dB(100Vrms,1kHz)
 Maximum SPL: 118dB at 400Hz
 Weight: 388g / 533g(Include headphone cable)


----------



## monsieurguzel

Wow look at that, a new pair of Stax headphones!!  I've been away from the forums for a while and the moment I log back on Woo releases their WEE and Stax comes out with the SR-507...sounds very tempting!  On a side note though, I am very curious what the consensus was on the updated SR-007 MK2 update...I had the original black pair and didn't completely fall in love with it...so maybe the updates fixed a couple issues that bugged me with them.


----------



## reiserFS

Sexy, but I guess I'll pass and just get a pair of SR-404LE for half of the price. Anyone want to take bets on the treble etch being fixed or not?


----------



## dcpoor

um, the sr-507 is 73,000yen. the sr-404le was 63,000yen if I remember correctly.


----------



## Robot Metal

The treble etch probably will be either largely reduced or eliminated, considering STAX hasn't designed a model with the issue since the 90s.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





dcpoor said:


> um, the sr-507 is 73,000yen. the sr-404le was 63,000yen if I remember correctly.


 

 73000jpy is quite good, especially compared to the Taiwanese price on those pics that were posted.


----------



## svyr

mmm, under US$1K
  interesting - in the pic the inner headband holders look similar to AKG K340.
  Anyone want to pay $1K for screws instead of the SR-404/lambda system? I wonder if you get leather pads for that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, aside from a probably tasty new driver
  
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> 73000jpy is quite good, especially compared to the Taiwanese price on those pics that were posted.


----------



## paxeaxe23

Which set of phones?  
   
  Second hand SR-5 or one of the three "budget" phones SR-202, 303 or 404?
   
  I've got a pair of white SR-5's  and need to buy a  second set for the Hybrid eXStatA amp that I am just starting to put together .
   
  How markedly different are the newer "Budget" Phones  compared to my SR-5's There are quite a few SR-5's for sale for under 130 Euros that I can see and although I am quite willing to pay between 400 - 700 euros for one of the newer Budget models , just wonder how much better these will perform than my old SR-5.
   
  Given I have the eXStatA SS and soon my new Hybrid I will be buying the phones without bundled amps and wonder if there is a big difference between the three budget phones or if its more the difference between the bundled amps/adaptors that differentiate then.
   
  Thanks


----------



## padam

Depends on what kind of sound you're after, the Lambdas have a diffused but maybe less focused type of sound compared to the smaller vintage phones. Each phones has its strengths and weaknesses. But the difference between the 303 and 404 is minimal, the 202 is a bit different (but not inferior).


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





dcpoor said:


> um, the sr-507 is 73,000yen. the sr-404le was 63,000yen if I remember correctly.


 

 I'm talking about a used mint condition pair, which usually goes for 600$ if you manage to grab one.


----------



## dcpoor

and 73,000y would be ~$850.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





paxeaxe23 said:


> Which set of phones?
> 
> Second hand SR-5 or one of the three "budget" phones SR-202, 303 or 404?
> 
> ...


----------



## svyr

Got a SRM-1/mk2 off jjinh, plugged it into my 100v jap transformer and....
  the FULL volume is only 1/4 at most of what SRM-300 gives off at 3 o'clock. To top it off past 2 o'clock it starts clipping.
   
  Any Ideas?


----------



## svyr

Mmmm, looks like it's royally FUBAR - the fat capacitors are cracked, the transformer looks to have melt marks on it and god knows what else. 
   
   
  here are the pics: 
   *Picturesright click and open in a new window to view a full-size one)*
   

 

 

 

 

 

 


  Or visit the gallery: 
  http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll163/svyr/srm1mk2-fubar/
   
  Can someone please tell me if it's even wired for 100v (I can post another pic, if the ones posted don't have the needed one)?


----------



## kevin gilmore

You have to take off the cover on the back and look at the plug to see what voltage its set for.
   
  All the stax transformers look like this after that many years. Except for the T2 transformers
  which look much worse. 
   
  Just because the heatshrink on the caps is cracked, that really does not mean anything, but
  at this age the caps should be replaced.
   
  Likely the amp is currently set for 220 volts, and running it on 100 volts, and it will barely work.
   
  Edit: that model has the selector switch.  take the 2 screws off that cover the selector switch
  and take a look at what it is set for.


----------



## spritzer

Yeah, you have to remove the back panel to see how the wires are really connected.  This is why I always put a sticker on every gear I modify to indicate the real input voltage...
   
  Ohh and change those caps.  They are way past their sell by date...


----------



## svyr

Thanks Kevin and Spritzer!
   
  ummm, http://assets.head-fi.org/c/c7/494x370px-LL-c78809eb_img6455v.jpg so I'm guessing you mean the cover to the right of the ground thingy... Interesting, I thought if it says '100v only' it doesn't have the switch. I'll have a look after work.
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> You have to take off the cover on the back and look at the plug to see what voltage its set for.
> 
> All the stax transformers look like this after that many years. Except for the T2 transformers
> which look much worse.
> ...


 

  
  >Ohh and change those caps. They are way past their sell by date...
   
  Ummm, if I go for bulk 'refreshment', what else apart from the large 100uf 400v caps needs replacing after errr 30 years of life? Also, is this a suitable subs for the 400v100uf caps http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RE6156 ?
   
   
  > This is why I always put a sticker on every gear I modify to indicate the real input voltage...
   
  Judging by the scratches around the screws it has been taken apart more than once, and god knowns what they did to it. Sound idea about the sticker though. or at least crossing out 100v only if it's been rewired.
   
   
  >All the stax transformers look like this after that many years. 
   
  I understand they're not cheap, but do I need to get a new one as well?


----------



## jjinh

Vlad, sincere apologies about the issues you're having with the amp. Firstly if you have persistent issues with the amp I'm sure you know you can also talk to me about it.
   
  Like I mentioned to you before you bought it I had never taken the amp out of the box it was sent in until the day I packed it up for you. This was because as I had no use for it and, in particular, I do not have the relevant step-down transformer to make it functional.
   
  I'll reiterate some details I provided to you prepurchase as it may help solve the problems you are having: this amp was purchased as part of a lambda sig + amp kit earlier in the year from Japan using Craig/Kuboten. It's the SRM-1mk2 with both Pro and Normal bias sockets. Now since the voltage selector has been removed I can only assume it is still set for 100v as I see no reason why it'd be set for anything else. But as Kevin has mentioned it's perhaps still worth a check.
   
  Other than that I cant help you with much of the the technical details (which is probably why you posted here  ) as I simply do not know much about stuff in the area.
   
  I can tell you a new transformer costs about 200AUD landed in Australia from Stax Japan but I'm not sure if we need to look at that (yet).


----------



## kevin gilmore

Once you remove the two screws, if there is no selector plug, it likely pops out
  to take a better picture.  All the wires are on the transformer, so its easy to
  rewire if you have to.
   
  As far as the new caps, you need to physically measure to make sure
  the new caps will fit. Otherwise anything with the right physical size and
  ratings would be ok.
   
  A voltmeter is going to help if the voltage selector is wired right.


----------



## svyr

Alright, thanks everyone. I'll let you know how it looks tonight!


----------



## svyr

MKaay, I don't know if this makes any sense but here are the pics/description.
   
  You can see the slots at the back behind the panel with the screws on the 1st pic.
   
  The table below describes how the wires from the transformer are connected to it.
  Pins are from left to right, as if we were looking at them from the same side as the voltage thingy (i.e. looking into the amp from the side of the voltage thingy)(look at the pics and you'll get it).
   
  w1/w2 are just white wires that connect from PIN TO PIN. other wires connect from the transformer to pins (duno about the two white ones though, i presume they do too)).
   
   
   
   

 Green Brown(w2) white(w1) nothing white(w2) gray(w1) purple  blue nothing nothing
 
 Pics:
   


   
   
  So, 220,240,100 or 110v or wired incorrectly? 
  If it's not 240v or 100v, how do I rewire it to 240?
   
   
  Btw, when I took off the screws at the back (2 at the cover, 2 at the sides of the voltage thingy), it could move, but it's sorta stuck on something, so I couldn't take it out and take a proper pic.
   
   
  >A voltmeter is going to help if the voltage selector is wired right.
   
  lol... Kevin, I thought after helping me debug the SRM-300/SRM-252a you started thinking more in the direction of 'a voltmeter will help you electrocute yourself and burn the amp, unless given explicit/ultra verbose directions'


----------



## GardianEnjel

Just wondering  Does anybody here want to sell their exstata to me? You'll need to ship it to toronto


----------



## spritzer

Most iof the 100V amps were like that.  They didn't ship with the plug so they are hardwired for 100V at the back of the socket.  To gain access to that you have to remove back panel.


----------



## kevin gilmore

i think i see brown connected to green
  and white connected to gray
  so its wired for 100 volts.


----------



## edstrelow

I was looking at a Lambda Signature on Ebay and am convinced that what I bought about a year ago as a supposed Signature is something else, even though the cups say Signature.  The Sig currently on Ebay has Black around the drivers.  Mine is gold,  Could this be an  LNS?
   
  On the other hand my Sigma Pros, remade by Stax,  have the Black around the drivers as I understand they should since they were supposedly based on the first Signature.


----------



## spritzer

Gold around the drivers means they are from the Nova lineup.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Gold around the drivers means they are from the Nova lineup.


 


 They certainly look a lot more like this.
   
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//index.php?title=Stax_SR-%CE%9B_Nova_Signature
   
  than this.
   
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki//index.php?title=SR-%CE%9B_Signature
   
  I am  a little pissed because the seller claimed to have  both LNS and Signatures and charged more for the Sigs.  It ended up being a very difficult transaction when the phones and an SRM1Mk2 didn't show up for over a month from England and I filed a claim through Paypal.  The guy doesn't seem to be in business anymore.


----------



## jjinh

So I gather the arc and headstrap on this particular pair of Stax looks more like the LNS ones than those of the lambda sigs.
   
  I suppose the evidence points towards you having a pair of LNS as their assemblies do look pretty different.


----------



## John Buchanan

Ed, I have some LNS in front of me now. The drivers are gold rimmed as Birgir said, the rest looks almost exactly like a 404, apart from the type on the top of the arc. The Lambda Signature has a similar arc and case holders to the Lambda/Lambda Pro and has a thinner cable than the LNS or 404. It had a black rimmed driver.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Ed, I have some LNS in front of me now. The drivers are gold rimmed as Birgir said, the rest looks almost exactly like a 404, apart from the type on the top of the arc. The Lambda Signature has a similar arc and case holders to the Lambda/Lambda Pro and has a thinner cable than the LNS or 404. It had a black rimmed driver.


 


 Thanks John.  I can see now that I have an LNS. Aside from the driver, the arc assembly is definitely LNS.     A well, some think it's better than the original Sig, so I am not too unhappy.


----------



## PianoForte

Will I be the first to point out the *NEW* stax headphone???
   
  http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR507e.html


----------



## PianoForte

nope, i'm not!


----------



## reiserFS

Anything new regarding the release date for the SR-507?


----------



## erikzen

Quote: 





pianoforte said:


> Will I be the first to point out the *NEW* stax headphone???
> 
> http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR507e.html


 


 That lambskin really gives "grace of sound".


----------



## charliex

In their advertising for the SR-507, what do they mean by:
  "the freshness of sound" and
  "the grace of sound"  ??


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





charliex said:


> In their advertising for the SR-507, what do they mean by:
> "the freshness of sound" and
> "the grace of sound"  ??


 
  Engrish translation of the original Japanese site.


----------



## wink

Don't you just lurv Engrish?
  It's almost as bad as Chinlish......


----------



## Priyajeet

How do you guys find O2s (mk1 or mk2 or both) for dance/electronic music compared to your other cans if any?
  Hows the bass impact compared to high end dynamic headphones? And what amp do you use to drive them.


----------



## reiserFS

Today seems to be my lucky day: Scored for only 190€ - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270622919652 Steal or Steal?


----------



## Vitor Teixeira

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Today seems to be my lucky day: Scored for only 190€ - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270622919652 Steal or Steal?


 

 What???


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





vitor teixeira said:


> What???


 
  My expression, exactly. And they're in new like condition as well, looks like I'm the first guy to score a ridiculous deal on a LNS. Originally I was outbid at 191€ and the auction had ended, but apparently the winner backed out so he offered it to me for 190€. Best thing is, he lives next to my city.


----------



## Vitor Teixeira

Congratulations on your purchase!
  BTW, what amp will you use to power them?


----------



## krmathis

reiserfs said:


> Today seems to be my lucky day: Scored for only 190€ - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270622919652 Steal or Steal?


 

 Looks like a pretty good deal to me. Congratulations!


----------



## edstrelow

That's an excellent deal on a very fine Lambda.   I had thought I had bought an original Signature but recently discovered it was an LNS and I like it quite a bit.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-lambda-nova-signature-vs-nova-classic
   
   
  My LNS had badly deteriorated foam behind the drivers.  But when I replaced it with new foam  from from the US Stax dealer I didn't like the new sound so I finally ditched the foam and also did the same on my 404.  It's easy to replace, just pull back the ear pads about 2 cm in the corners and you will see the 4 screws that hold the aluminum baffle in place. pry it out with a small blade and remove or insert the foam.  It's a 5 minute operation.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





vitor teixeira said:


> Congratulations on your purchase!
> BTW, what amp will you use to power them?


 
  I'll be using the High-Amp.de DIY Hybrid Amp with RCA 654A tubes.
  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> That's an excellent deal on a very fine Lambda.   I had thought I had bought an original Signature but recently discovered it was an LNS and I like it quite a bit.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-lambda-nova-signature-vs-nova-classic
> 
> ...


 
  I read your thread on that mod and found it to be a quite interesting read, will consider that.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Today seems to be my lucky day: Scored for only 190€ - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270622919652 Steal or Steal?


 

 Congrats - good win there!


----------



## jaycalgary

Stax ED-1 and Stax ED Signature? Is the ED Signature even harder to find? I do have a pair of Lambda pro's but I use the Signature mainly. Would the ED-1 be much different with the Lambda Signature than the ED Signature would be?


----------



## ak622

After years of being on Head-Fi, I finally jumped into the world of Stax.  I got a pair of SR-404 and a SRM-313 to power them.  Albeit not very high-end, but I do appreciate the presentation it delivers.  I finally understand what people say when they say its got "speed".   Given that the SRM-313 is not even high up on Stax's list of amps, I wonder how much better they can perform with a better amp.  But I'm enjoying the music right now so I'll probably stick with this set up for a while.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> After years of being on Head-Fi, I finally jumped into the world of Stax.  I got a pair of SR-404 and a SRM-313 to power them.  Albeit not very high-end, but I do appreciate the presentation it delivers.  I finally understand what people say when they say its got "speed".   Given that the SRM-313 is not even high up on Stax's list of amps, I wonder how much better they can perform with a better amp.  But I'm enjoying the music right now so I'll probably stick with this set up for a while.


 


 While a better amp will give better sound, some tweaks may help too at less cost and can also be applied to any later amp. .  A better power cable for the amp, giving the amp a separate wall socket as opposed to sharing a power strip, footers for the amp, contact enhancers such as Silclear or Progold on all contact surfaces.  I prefer my 404 with the back foam removed, See my posting http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas


----------



## jaycalgary

I have been looking at an ED-1 that is on Ebay. The price is starting to get really high though. Over $400 now with three days left. Is this mostly because they are rare and collectable or does it offer a sound that would make it worth the cost?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I have been looking at an ED-1 that is on Ebay. The price is starting to get really high though. Over $400 now with three days left. Is this mostly because they are rare and collectable or does it offer a sound that would make it worth the cost?


 


 I don't know about the sound or the value but Stax made many different models for various Lambdas and I think even an SR5.  You want one that matches your specific Lambda.  This one says it is for the Lambda Pro.


----------



## John Buchanan

There was the ED-5 for the SR5, the ED-1 or the Stax SRM Monitor for the Lambda Pro and the ED Signature for the SR-Signatures.


----------



## jaycalgary

Well someday it would bve interesting to try the ED-1 but the one on Ebay looks like there is a crazy bidding war.
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-ED-1-ED1-Diffuse-Field-EQUALIZER-Tested-/220655071960?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
   
  Not sure what the fair price is but from reading was guessing around $500 so I will have to wait.
  Does the ED-1 have crossfeed? I understand that it makes the soundstage a lot larger than normally without one.


----------



## n3rdling

I've seen those sell for much cheaper in the past.


----------



## kevin gilmore

i picked up mine for $130...  Someone wants it real bad...


----------



## gilency

Kevin: what do you thinkg of the ED-1? could you not accomplish the same thing with a parametric equalizer?
  And how about the HP-1 made by a Swiss company? better? sames as....?


----------



## kevin gilmore

I have schematics for all three of the equalizers.
  You probably can do it with a 1/3 octave equalizer, but those
  seem to be hard to find. The really old altec 1753 would work,
  you would need 2 of them. Setting them up correctly would
  not be easy.
   
  These days the correct way would be a programmed dsp.
   
  here are 2 of the 3
   
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxeq.pdf
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxmonitor.pdf


----------



## reiserFS

Nobody besides me using a High-Amp.de Hybrid Amp here? I'm really curious how the O2 sounds on it.


----------



## Robot Metal

I've checked the page - It looks to be in the league of SRM-T1S/srm-007t/exstata and thus wouldn't be enough to power an O2 to its full potential. I can't say for myself though, as I've never heard the amp.


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> These days the correct way would be a programmed dsp.


 

 Perhaps Smyth Research Realiser A8?


----------



## gilency

Any parametric equalizer should be able to do it, but I would defer to the Stax experts on this.
  I am not sure where I got these numbers, may be from John Buchanan, somewhere in one of the Stax threads:
   
[size=7.0pt]"This is the [/size][size=10.0pt]frequency reponse of the ED-1[/size][size=7.0pt]and it probably speaks for itself! The response goes like this[/size]
[size=7.0pt]Flat up to 500Hz[/size]
 +0.5dB 500
 +1dB 600 peak
 -0.5 dB 700
 -1dB 800
 -1.5dB 900
 -2dB 1kHz
 -3dB ~1.5kHz trough
 +1dB 2kHz
 +5dB 3kHz
 peaks at ~ 3.2 kHz
 +4dB 4kHz
 +2.5dB 5kHz
 -0.5dB 6kHz trough
 +1dB 7kHz
 +2dB 8kHz peak
 -1dB 9kHz
 -6dB 10kHz
 trough at 11kHz
 returns to flat at about 17kHz"


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey all.  is the original cable on the sr-5nb gold the ribbon cable, or the cloth?  I thought the ribbon, but now I'm not sure.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Hey all.  is the original cable on the sr-5nb gold the ribbon cable, or the cloth?  I thought the ribbon, but now I'm not sure.


 

 Doesn't matter, I've owned both at the same time once, and they sounded quite similar.  I sold the clothe cabled pair, just because I liked the ribbon cable more than a cable that looks like it belongs on an old clothes iron.


----------



## almuzzi

Hey guys!
   
  Im new to the 'stats scene. Just got myself an SRM1/mk2 in addition to my SRM-T1S. I must say that the dynamics and low-level (and treble) detail of the SRM1 lends itself very well to classical music, and the tube midrange of the T1S is great with vocals, so im gonna keep both( was actually planning to sell the T1S, but now that new tubes are incoming..)
   
  Problem now is i have only one headphone, the Lambda Pro Signatures. They kind of have a very extended treble, making them sound very detailed (to me) but also quite fatiguing. Would anyone of you please recommend me a stax that has great synergy with either of the amps that i own?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## 98664c3yijh

(Apologies if I touch a topic discussed in the past, but the amount
  of posts is so huge that even several hours of search give no results)
   
  Gang,
   
  Revitalizing my SRM T1 I came accross some bias puzzle.
  When measuring what should be the headphone bias
  voltage between the bias pin and either
  stator of either channel, I'm getting 180VDC at the Normal
  jack and 400VDC at the Pro jack...I've been expecting
  quite a few more Volts, i.e. 580VDC on the Pro???
  As finding a T1 schematics seems
  impossible (PM me please if you have one ),
  do you know what's going on? How is the
  headphone bias voltage created?
   
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## Michgelsen

Every once in a while somebody comes asking about that issue. I'm not an expert, but I read (can't find posts now) that weird readings can have to do with your meter not having enough impedance. On top of that, you're not measuring it the right way, according to this post by Spritzer: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/4140#post_3406088


----------



## 98664c3yijh

AAAAA! Me stupid! Of ourse, the bleeder is in the range of the input
  impedance of most DMM's, forming a volatge divider.
  Thanks! The above spritzer's post should be probably sticky somewhere
  in the DIY section.
   
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## spritzer

The bias supply has to see very high impedance to reach those voltages so when you plug in a low input impedance DMM (the good ones are 10M which is far from enough) you get voltage drop over the ballast resistor.  That's why you have to measure before the ballast resistor and preferably with meter of the caliber of Fluke to get anything close to an accurate result.  If you have a VTVM handy then you can use that too and measure directly at the plug.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

anticipating the delivery of my SR5-NB Gold..  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Please join in my excitement with suggestions on how you've enjoyed yours!!!  I will eventually be powering these with the Exstata hybrid.  have to build it first though.  that may take a while.  srd-7/sb with a sansui 7 until then.  very very excited.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> anticipating the delivery of my SR5-NB Gold..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Okay - I preferred my SR-5NB Gold Edition more than my re-cabled Grado RS-1.  RS-1 are gone, SR-5NB are still here...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Excellent! I have sr-lambdas that I love. What differences can I look forward to? I use the lambdas mostly for classical and accoustic. I was going to get some denon 2000's. But the sr5's became available. These may be my rock cans.


----------



## Vitor Teixeira

What do you guys think of the lambda nova signature (in comparison with the SR-202 for instance)?
   
  (maybe it was debated here before, but i'm lazy not to read the entire thread...)
   
   
   
_Gimme a break, i'm new to this electrostatic thing, k? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, it has been debated before. I have not heard the LNS myself, but I can state what's said about it. It's generally regarded as the smoothest of the vintage lambdas and similar sounding to the SR-202.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Yes, it has been debated before. I have not heard the LNS myself, but I can state what's said about it. It's generally regarded as the *smoothest of the vintage lambdas* and similar sounding to the SR-202.


 
  This and nice tight bass with a wide soundstage, at least on my rig when compared to the SR-202.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Yes, it has been debated before. I have not heard the LNS myself, but I can state what's said about it. It's generally regarded as the smoothest of the vintage lambdas and similar sounding to the SR-202.


 


 It's a great phone but in my direct comparison  I still prefered the 404. 
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/430113/stax-lambdas-404-vs-lambda-nova-signature-vs-nova-classic
   
  Of course now I also like my 404 with back foam removed.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/443060/is-the-stax-lambda-signature-supposed-to-be-damped-on-second-thought-ditch-the-foam-backing-on-all-the-lambdas


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Excellent! I have sr-lambdas that I love. What differences can I look forward to? I use the lambdas mostly for classical and accoustic. I was going to get some denon 2000's. But the sr5's became available. These may be my rock cans.


 

 I think the SR-5NB gold edition has a better defined soundstage and instrument placement, and not the larger more amorphous soundstage of the Lambda.  So the soundstage is a little smaller, but still noticeably bigger than the SR-X Mk3 that uses the same drivers.  The highs are also a little smoother.  Bass is similar I think, but I haven't compared them in a while, and much better than the std white SR-5. Overall I think the SR-5NB gold edition is a nicely balanced phone, with good speed and detail.


----------



## spritzer

Some news for owners of SRM-727.  I bought a used amp and sent to KG who has retraced the unit and quickly identified why it sounds like poo.  In some ways it's similar to the KGSSHV (without the high voltage that is) but then Stax went all crazy and cut the outputstage out of the feedback loop.  Very bad idea which results in 10 fold increase in distortion over the 717 and the amp starts to misbehave into the loads presented.  This confirms what many of us have already reported, that the 727 is a poor substitute for the 717.  Now this would be easy enough to fix with wires running all over the place but KG is trying to see if there is a neat solution to fix this and end up with a very good SS amp for the money.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Out of curiosity, if the output stage were to be brought back into the feedback loop, would this amp be technically better than a 717 or would it pretty much be the same amp at that point?  In other words, does the 727 do anything better than the 717?


----------



## spritzer

It would be better.  Moar CCS...


----------



## kevin gilmore

It would sound slightly better due to a true current source at the top of the third stage.
   
  Its very interesting that the feedback wires from the output stage back to the input board are actually
  on the main circuit board, and go all the way to the connector... So two quick cuts and jumps
  and the output stage is inside the feedback loop once again.
   
  Here is the deal, the output stage does not run high enough power to be linear without any feedback.
  To make it linear it would have to dissipate at least double the power it is set for.
   
  Which would mean double the size of the heatsinks,
  double the size of the power supply  (from 65 watts to 125+)
  and a much bigger chassis.
  And guess what, more money.
   
  before
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_1583.jpg
   
  after
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_1583mod.jpg
   
  Its really built nice, much better than the srm717.


----------



## Clarkmc2

And what would bring my SRM-007t II into the hunt? Would a better Power supply help, or is it fatally hobbled by the limitations of its tubes?
   
  Clark


----------



## kevin gilmore

I think the box size significantly limits what modifications can be done.
   
  You could replace the plate resistors with a current source, but where to put the heatsinks.
   
  You could replace the tubes but the best available replacement won't fit inside the box.
   
  Without doing the first two, doing anything to the power supply makes little sense.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I think the box size significantly limits what modifications can be done.
> 
> You could replace the plate resistors with a current source, but where to put the heatsinks.
> 
> ...


 
  Thank you, Kevin. Since mine is still in warranty, I should probably not mess with it now! But I was thinking of a second power supply box, like your T2.
   
  I can gather that starting from scratch would be a better course. What would be the best tubes? I notice that the existing type is a preamp tube, and I have always been confused by that. The top choice for amps for the O2 seems to be the EL34, a power tube. You can tell I am no expert at audio circuits.
   
  I am beginning to think I might settle for the _slightly_ slower response of my modded transformer box. With the amps I have the fidelity is absolutely top notch, and power is not an issue. The rig absolutely lights up the phones.
   
  Clark


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> It would sound slightly better due to a true current source at the top of the third stage.
> 
> Its very interesting that the feedback wires from the output stage back to the input board are actually
> on the main circuit board, and go all the way to the connector... So two quick cuts and jumps
> ...


 

 Maybe someone ought to tell Stax this so they can do something about it? But then there wouldn't be any need for boutique amp makers.


----------



## spritzer

The best tube for this role would be the 6S4A but it won't fit inside the box and they will require major surgery to the PCB to rework the sockets.  You'd still be stuck with the plate resistors and crummy PSU so it is hardly worth the effort.  ECC99's should fit too (Stax uses them in the SRM-600) and I have a T1 sitting in customs which I will mod to use them plus try to do some PSU mods.  CCS is out of the question though as it would only give me a burnt up transformer...
   
  Now if you want something similar to the 006t/007t then Kevin's KGST is just that.  Similar front end with a CCS loaded 6S4A to really wake up the SR-007.  I am working on converting another amp design into the ST but waiting on Mouser to get some parts back into stock.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I have a picture of a unit that i think was called the srm717-II. It looks to be the same identical item as the srm727. But
  the standup circuit boards are a bit different. So somewhere along the line they decided to run the output section less
  feedback.  What would have been better, and clearly easy to do would be jumpers or small switches on the board to
  change where the feedback loops hooks up to.  Kind of too bad that this did not happen.
   
  Kind of too bad that stax is still cutting the wires on the transformers for the 100 volt only models.


----------



## jgazal

It seems to be a deliberate choice from the engineers: "The new SRM-727II employs semiconductor output drive stage and non-feedback (NON-NFB) output stage for the first time ever in a STAX driver unit"
   
Perhaps stax engineers do not like the way (global?) feedback loops sound...


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> What would have been better, and clearly easy to do would be jumpers or small switches on the board to change where the feedback loops hooks up to.  Kind of too bad that this did not happen.


 
   
  Like Manley Neo-Classic SE / PP 300B?
   
  "Another factor in the single ended triode saga (currently enjoying a wide spread popularity) is demand for little (or sometimes zero) negative feedback. We at Manley Labs believe in the judicious or sensible amount of feedback to refine and maximize performance. Our Neo-Classic SE/PP300B gives you the choice in precision switched 1 dB steps to go from ZERO dB's to 10 dB's of negative feedback. Even with zero negative feedback, this amp is cleaner and flatter than any single-ended amp we know of".


----------



## kevin gilmore

The feedback/no feedback thing has raged on and on forever, and will likely continue.
  Some people like ultralinear. Some people like triode mode.
  Some like single loop feedback. Some like multi loop feedback.
   
  The singlepower texture control was in fact a pot that varied the amount of feedback,
  in virtually all singlepower amps, there was no feedback as standard.
   
  The "FUN" control was something different entirely.
   
  One man's ceiling is another man's floor.(*There Goes Rhymin' Simon* )
   
  The synthesis of multi loop feedback for the srm727 indicates that some global feedback
  added to the local feedback will definitely improve things.
   
  Your choice. For people that want, contact me and i'll supply enough pictures so that
  you can modify your units as you see fit. Usual caveats about messing with high voltage
  apply here.


----------



## spritzer

I'm sure the whole non-NFB line might help them sell some units but every one I've talked to who has compared the 717/727 has preferred the former so they must be doing something wrong.  Running amps with a gain this high without feedback makes no sense to me and the difference feedback makes for instance to the Rudistor Egmont/Cirolan circuit  is far from subtle.


----------



## nkkuma

Have been waiting for a used 2050 system or similar lower ends for months, never had chance to score one. It seems more and more people are interested to try the stax sound. sign


----------



## seldenr

Please feel free to tell me I am off-thread, but I was wondering if anyone has compared any of the Stax to the (relatively) new HifFiman planar headphones.  I was curious because I still own an ancient (I think I got them in 1979 or 1980) pair of Audio Technica ATH-7 "electrostatic" headphones.  I put the "electrostatic" in quotes since I am not convinced they are pure stats, but I do know that at one time I enjoyed them very much.
   
  Funny since I have never cared for the sound of electrostatic speakers (Martin Logan, Quad), but do very much like the sound of planar magnetics.  So this made me wonder if anyone has the old ATH-7 cans or has compared the Stax to the HiFiMan planars.


----------



## n3rdling

Please don't let this guy ruin the best thread on Head Fi.  Please.
   
  Anybody decide to go in on the 507 lately?


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I'm sure the whole non-NFB line might help them sell some units but every one I've talked to who has compared the 717/727 has preferred the former so they must be doing something wrong.  *Running amps with a gain this high without feedback makes no sense to me* and the difference feedback makes for instance to the Rudistor Egmont/Cirolan circuit  is far from subtle.


 

 Agreed, and there is one way I am aware of to minimize the amount on NF needed. The trick is to have most of the gain in the preamp stage and leave little for the power stage to accomplish. This works if the preamp stage is high gain and essentially distortion free and I know of one candidate, design wise.
   
  Alan Kimmel's Mu Stage circuit, when well executed, has no audible distortion and has a gain of 30dB inverted. It employs no feedback at all. A small amount of NF suffices for the single power gain stage, and such an amp will power speakers as well as headphones. I had two of these beauties at Chicago CanJam Sunday, right across from Skylab's table, but only a handful of listeners bothered to sample them. For an image see the bottom of this page: http://www.theaudiobeat.com/canjam2010/canjam2010_ss_member_systems.htm
   
  The left amp was available for anyone to plug their phones into, but I believe no one did (lacking that there was a Pair of my friend Dave's phones to hear); the right served as a preamp only to feed a FirstWatt F2 JFET driving whatever Stax phone any one cared to bring, or my 007II mk2. This was my first meet and I was frankly astonished at how few members were carrying around their own (familiar) phones to try out on different gear. I can't think of a better way to evaluate electronics.
   
  If you care to design something, here is the bible:
http://audio.fam-gelder.nl/index.php/artikelen/31-alan-kimmels-mu-stage/55-why-use-the-kimmel-mu-stage.html 
  Figure 1 is missing. I might be able to find a version if anyone needs it.
   
  Here is another implementation. See the Mark Jeffs design and read the listening impressions. This is a very cool page. Don't miss the unrelated Grand Aurora.  http://www.nutshellhifi.com/triode3.html
   
  Clark


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Anybody decide to go in on the 507 lately?


 

 I'm keen to try a pair myself sooner or later actually. I'm not going to rush looking for a pair though as I want a more decent amp first.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Anybody decide to go in on the 507 lately?


 

 Apparently the guy that bought your SRM-T1 purchased a pair as mentioned in the SR-507 thread.


----------



## svyr

> Anybody decide to go in on the 507 lately?
   
  You can buy one already? O.o I thought it was due in october? (edit: O.o and he's in aus too)
   
  edit2: http://www.joynetmall.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=4117 850 shipped to ausland. Looks like the guy in the other thread got pwnd on price?


----------



## Drumonron

Quote: 





svyr said:


> > Anybody decide to go in on the 507 lately?
> 
> You can buy one already? O.o I thought it was due in october? (edit: O.o and he's in aus too)
> 
> edit2: http://www.joynetmall.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=4117 850 shipped to ausland. Looks like the guy in the other thread got pwnd on price?


 
  Interesting.....anybody have experience with joynetmall.com? ... what a great price!


----------



## Maxvla

Joynetmall has been in the high end headphone market for a long time. They were one of only a couple places authorized to sell the last batch of Sony R10s. I'd say you have nothing to worry about.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

drumonron said:


> Interesting.....anybody have experience with joynetmall.com? ... what a great price!













 I'll have to see if I bought stuff before from joynetmall or joynetcafe when I get later.


----------



## Drumonron

Thanks Maxvla and HeadphoneAddict for taking the time out....appreciate your efforts.


----------



## edstrelow

I see a Stax Junior integrated amplifier being sold on EBay.
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stax-Junior-A-101-A101-Amplifcador-Amplifier-DARTHY-/310247777865?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item483c356649
   
  I have never heard of this Stax line and it doesn't show up in the Stax History.  Anyone ever heard of this?


----------



## Priyajeet

New to electrostatic headphones here and recently got my pair of second hand O2s.
  I noticed that the ear cup rotates freely. What is the desired placement/positioning one should have.
  Does the thicker end go towards the back of the ear or somewhere else?
   
  I found it relatively comfortable that way, but other positions seemed fine too.
  Haven't had much time on it so unsure about sound quality differences.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## n3rdling

Thicker part towards the back, yes.  Point the seems forward between 9 and 11 o clock.


----------



## Larry I

It is not necessarily the case that it is thicker part forward, back, up or down.  Rotate the cup to the position that creates the tightest seal around your ears -- that position will be determined by the shape of your head.  If that seal is not pretty tight, the bass response will be adversely affected. 
   
  I think this is part of the instructions that came with the headphones (I know, no one reads instruction manuals).  The Stax manual that came with my phones were otherwise spectacularly unhelpful.  They don't even say want kind of tubes are in the amp.  But, they do recommend not using the phones in the shower.


----------



## Priyajeet

My manual requires me to learn a new language


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





priyajeet said:


> My manual requires me to learn a new language


 

 Same.
   
  Best fit for me is with the thicker part towards the back. I also bent the headband to make it tighter.


----------



## svyr

I was hoping you guys could give me a little 'poke that with the voltmeter' help 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  As you may know (posted in the stax thread), I bought an SRM-1/mk2. It wasn't really working. The max output volume on the pro bias jack is about 20 times quiter than on the SRM-300 (barely audible at full vol, and you can also hear clipping the louder it gets). 
   
  I sent the unit to the aus authorized stax dealer. They charged me close to what I paid for the amp. Rewired it to 240v, replaced 3 caps and fixed a few dry solder joints (f-f-f-f...) ... They also said they measured everything, and the problem couldn't be located. 
   
  Now the unit came back, and I get the exact same problems as before. Out of desperation, I plugged my SR-404 into the normal bias socket (the absence of the 6th pin doesn't seem to prevent you from pluggin a pro-bias headphone into a normal bias slot) and it sort of works - sounds a bit dull, but can go quite loud). 
   
  Clearly, the stax repair hasn't diagnosed or fixed the problem. 
   
*3 questions: *
  a) What can I measure to send back to the stax dealer to show them that they didn't 'measure everything' for s...t. I was thinking, measure the bias voltage and the +-LR voltages and quote them compared to the SRM-300 ones. Max for SRM-300 which is working fine was 350v, in line with spec. I suspect, the max for the SRM-1 will be quite far off 370v listed in the specs.
   
  b) Are pro bias earspeakers even supposed to work on normal slots (and if not, does it mean it's not wired correctly?)
   
  c) Can I damage the SR-404 by using it in the normal bias slot.


----------



## svyr

Yea... "measured everything and couldn't find the problem" my a.s 
   
  Full volume, max voltage (same signal, over 2 mins via min/max mode of an rms multimeter):
   
  SRM-300 : 349.1V (350v in the specs)
  SRM-1/mk2: 97.4V (370v in the specs)
   
  Here's another amusing thing:
  With no earpseakers connected/max volume, I can faintly hear the music if I put my ear close to the SRM-1/mk2... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  p.s.s. 
  I tested the min/max voltage on the +R/-R on the normal bias slot, and the numbers are identical to the pro slot - 97v. Is this normal?


----------



## almuzzi

hey i had a similar problem with my t1s. realised the amp was humming when nothing was plugged in so i opened it up and turned it on. turns out 2 of the solder joints (that were very close to each other) were sparking across to ground. maybe that explains the power loss. i just put a little black electricians tape over the two joints and now the problem is completely solved


----------



## svyr

Thanks for that, I'll try it tonight. (I wonder if looking at amps in a dark room is a standard practice for service centers ). I take it you mean on the side the solder joints are, not the components side?
  Quote: 





almuzzi said:


> hey i had a similar problem with my t1s. realised the amp was humming when nothing was plugged in so i opened it up and turned it on. turns out 2 of the solder joints (that were very close to each other) were sparking across to ground. maybe that explains the power loss. i just put a little black electricians tape over the two joints and now the problem is completely solved


----------



## svyr

Oh ah. forgot to ask 2 things: a) exactly how hot is the transformer designed to run. Mine is painfully hot after 4h of running. (and it cooled off a bit, before I opened the cover).The transistor heatsink is about the same by the way.
   
  Normal?
   
  b) What are the rust-looking things in the photo. and how bad if at all are they? 
   


   
   
   
  Edit: the music is comming from the transistor.. It makes an audible hum and over the hum you can hear the music faintly... Wicked.
   
  Edit2: checked both sides of the board in the dark - no visible sparking anywhere


----------



## wink

That brown gunk is flux.
  Clean it off with metho or isopropyl alcohol or flux cleaner.


----------



## wink

Transformers usually run hot. Just how hot depends on the manufacturer's ideas in how hot they should run at full load and the airflow in the situation they're working in.
   
  The sound coming from the transistor could be either the transistor not mounted securely to the heatsink or a bad connection on one of it's legs to the pcb or some other esoteric cause inside the package.


----------



## spritzer

First off, check the DC balance and offset as that will tell you instantly if there are any serious issues here. 
   
  I didn't quite get what you meant with regards to the normal bias output.  Did you get full volume there or was is just slightly louder?  It is a separate circuit from the Pro bias output so that could narrow things down a bit.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The L+,L- and R+ R- are all tied together on both sockets.
  The bias is different. Given that the headphones work fine
  in the low bias socket, the only thing that can be wrong
  is with the high bias pin on the high bias socket. Likely
  just one bad resistor. This makes complete sense.


----------



## svyr

wink, spritzer, Kevin - thanks very much for the replies. 
   
  I'll test the V in the places Kevin recommended to have a look at tonight. 
   
  Aside from the pro-bias voltage, I still don't understand why the max voltage between the L+/L- pins being 3.5 times lower on the SRM1 (3.7 times under the spec) vs SRM300 (to spec) is not a cause for concern though


----------



## spritzer

There is probably something wrong with the amp sections as well but I'd start off fixing the bias supply.  You should also measure the power rails to see if they are ok.  The easiest spot to do so are the two jumpers next to the main heatsink.


----------



## svyr

Spritzer, thanks... Kevin told me to check the power supply as well. And provided the schem-s. (I really feel like I should paypal Kevin some money or something, given how much he helped with the previous issues I had with the SRM252/300 and now this...Although right now Kevin is probably doing a facepalm, as more people completely dilettante in electronics ask him questions like - 'how do I measure voltage across a resistor')
   
  Quote: Kevin Gilmore (pm)


> what i would do is measure the voltage across c302.if its zero, or something way lower than 580 then replace d301 and d302 if its ok, then replace r303,r304,C303
> 
> 
> *One other thing, measure the power supply voltages across c007 and c005. *Should be in the range of 300 to 350 volts. If not, there is some kind of serious power supply trouble which could be why the bias is way off. The AC voltage swing should be 100 volts rms. But much easier to measure with an oscilliscope.


  If the power supply is fubar, I'm going to be very unamused, since the repairer said they did check the power rails measurements on the invoice.
   
  Just need to eat/take a shower then I'll do the measurements..


----------



## svyr

Errrr, 
   
  almost forgot... Is there a section on working with high voltages? Suddenly I feel like I need to take precautions working with >200v and near large caps... yeaaa... I mean poking the earspeaker sockets was ok (especially since I attached the probes prior to turning it on)... but um, poking things around a working amp sounds a bit hardcore to do without taking precautions.
   
  Even opening the driver unit, I probably should've found out whether there are bleeder resistors present... Aaaand if they still work. oh crap...


----------



## spritzer

Just be careful is the only advice I can give you.  Keep one hand in your pocket so what I'd do here is tie the black probe to the ground post on the back of the amp and measure with one hand.  This only works for the 007 and 005 caps though...


----------



## svyr

Thanks... Read the http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/468132/working-with-lethal-voltages/30 things there + a few links going off it for a good measure as well.     
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just be careful is the only advice I can give you.  Keep one hand in your pocket so what I'd do here is tie the black probe to the ground post on the back of the amp and measure with one hand.  This only works for the 007 and 005 caps though...


 
   
   
  Errr, I'm getting a bit confused. Kevin said: 
   
   
   
  Quote: 





> well* all of the capacitors have one side tied to chassis ground*.
> 
> So you can put one voltmeter wire there. Then use the other wire to
> 
> probe various places trying not to short anything out.


 
   

  So um, will it work for both the c007|5 and c302 caps?


----------



## spritzer

Yup, they are all with one leg tied to ground.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Everything in that amp can and should be measured with respect to chassis/circuit ground.
  Only exception is the differential between the two output sides.


----------



## svyr

Ah, okies, thanks guys!
  Last question, I take it I should use the same multimeter mode as the one I used to measure +R/-R (1000v max AC, etc)? And measuring the cap (esp the 400v 100uf) isn't going to fry my multimeter? Oh um, finally, do I do this with the earspeakers plugged in, or with no load?


----------



## spritzer

No, you are measuring DC here.  Have it on the highest voltage setting.  If you are using a cheap meter then odds are any measurements in the bias supply will make no sense at all.


----------



## svyr

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=fluke+187 
  and suddenly I now really fear burning the meter I use... I didn't realize how much it costs. (if only it was a replacement for having no clue 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
   
  DC on both caps, or just 302? edit: <---- NVM, although, right now, my physics teacher and uni lecturers are crying in the corner... All I had to do was think for a minute instead of asking... 
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No, you are measuring DC here.  Have it on the highest voltage setting.  If you are using a cheap meter then odds are any measurements in the bias supply will make no sense at all.


----------



## Currawong

Might be a stupid question, but is the voltage for the amp set correctly on the back of the unit?


----------



## svyr

All 3 large 450v/100uf caps (c7, c5, etc) are squarely at 320v. (and all been replaced) (Load, no load, source, no source)
   
  C302 was a square 450v. (load,no load, source...you get the picture. errr....is this sufficiently lower than 580v to qualify for 'your pro bias is fubar'?)
   
  Btw, the nice authorized repairer people didn't replace C008, despite it being an old electrolytic cap. =(
   
   
  >Might be a stupid question, but is the voltage for the amp set correctly on the back of the unit?
   
  Yes, the stax repairer people rewired it to 240v. Before it was at 100v, and I used a 240->100v@50w quality step down transformer.
  Unless you mean, 'is it really wired correctly right now'... No idea. The driver unit wasn't fixed, so I have 0 guarantee that the voltage was set correctly to 240v. The unit has no switch at the back...Well, not quite 0...The voltage on the caps probably gives an indication to whether it's correct or not. Let's see what spritzer and kevin say)


----------



## spritzer

+320 or -320?  That's a bit important...   Also what do you mean by load or no load?  The PSU is always under load with the amp attached to it. 
   
  450V in the bias is less than it should be but voltage drop due to the meter could be a factor here. 
   
  Remove the back panel and see what wires are connected together.  Then you know what the voltage setup is.


----------



## svyr

>  Also what do you mean by load or no load?  
   
  I meant whether SR-404 is plugged in or not. 
   
   
   
  >Remove the back panel and see what wires are connected together. Then you know what the voltage setup is. 
   
  oooh boy... I remember how fun it was taking pics about 5 pages ago for that one...( I still can't tell btw). 
   
   
   
  >+320 or -320? That's a bit important... 
  (with black to ground)
  C7: - 320 
  C5 and C6: +320
   
   
  lol... one more thing from pms:
   
   
*(kevin)>Even though its a high impedance you can still measure the voltage of the pro bias pin with respect to ground. Depending on meter it should be about 100 volts. If its zero, that is your problem.


   (me)ooopsie... I remember you told me before and I did measure it...but I forgot to pm you. It is 0v on the pro bias pin in the slot. +150v on the two normal one ones to grnd. Though, I'm measuring V in voltage mode, not 'swing'.*
   
  ^ that one is probably another facepalm clue, much like the 'am i measuring AC or DC on both caps' lol


----------



## spritzer

Even with the meter loading down the pro bias supply, you should get some voltage.  Something is wrong so check the wire for continuity and check the 4M7 resistor to make sure it is up to spec. 
   
  Did you check the DC offset at the output?


----------



## svyr

>Remove the back panel and see what wires are connected together. Then you know what the voltage setup is. 
   
  I'll post the pics in the evening and a table of what's connected to what. Just needed to go to sleep last night, so decided to whine about it. Kevin said 320v is about 10% lower than it should be. Hopefully that's not because it's wired to 220v instead of 240v... 
   
   
  >Something is wrong so check the wire for continuity
   
  Resistance mode on the MM, resistance should be close to 0 ohm?
   
   
  >check the 4M7 resistor to make sure it is up to spec. 
   
  I'm blind and I can't see it on the schematic. (pmed the link). =(
  Do you mean R303 and R304, and should those be 2.2M ohm?
   
  >Did you check the DC offset at the output?
   
  Unfortunately, I have no idea how...


----------



## spacemanspliff

Question to the Staxen. What is the basic difference btw a Nova Basic and a lambda normal bias? If both are juiced by an SRD-7. Does the normal have more soundstage/air, mellowness and bass and the Nova better mids and more forward? Can't recall for sure.


----------



## John Buchanan

The SRD-7 (compared with the Mk2 version) only does normal bias phones - your pro bias Lambda Nova basic are at a disadvantage there


----------



## spritzer

I didn't check the schematic but yes, Stax put in two 2M2 resistors (probably because they are 300V rated) but you can remove them both and put in one 4M7 resistor which is rated for 600V. 
   
  Continuity means very low ohm values but you should also have a setting on the DMM with a speaker next to it.  This way the meter will beep when it has continuity. 
   
  To set the DC offset you first set the meter to 100V or more DC.  Then you put the red and black probes in the+ and - sockets for each channel and adjust the balance pot for that channel (which is marked on the PCB) for 0VDC.  Once that is done then you remove the black probe from the - output and connect it to ground.  Now you adjust the offset pot for 0VDC as well.


----------



## svyr

>To set the DC offset you first set the meter to 100V or more DC. Then you put the red and black probes in the+ and - sockets for each channel and adjust the balance pot for that channel (which is marked on the PCB) for 0VDC. Once that is done then you remove the black probe from the - output and connect it to ground. Now you adjust the offset pot for 0VDC as well. 
   
  mmmm, not sure sure there's a balance pot? http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/447304/stax-srm-1-mk-2-pro-bias-voltages-only-measuring-350v#post_6046402
   
   
   
  As for measuring R304/3:
   
  Kaaay, This is going to be a bit odd:

 Look from the top of the amp, with the transformer behind the resistors.



 |---PBP-|
 |           |
 |           |
 |           |
 | R4R3  |
 |_ TT__|



 --R304-- ___ --R303-- ok?

 R4= R304, R3= R303

 TT= transformer, PBP = pro bias pin.



 so, when I measure across r304 i get inf. (as in left contact to right contact, or vice versa)

 When I measure across r303 it's 2.27mohm.

 When I measure LHS R303 to PBP - 2.27 mohm

 When I measure RHS R303 to PBP - 0.2ohm



 When I measure LHS R304 to PBP - inf

 When I measure RHS R303 to PBP - 2.27 mohm



 =( now I feel completely confused by too many ways to measure things...Hopefully the above covers the measurements needed.
  >I didn't check the schematic but yes, Stax put in two 2M2 resistors (probably because they are 300V rated) but you can remove them both and put in one 4M7 resistor which is rated for 600V. 
   
  That makes it sound like the two are connected in series and what I measured would imply that one of the resistors is dead. (304)


----------



## spritzer

There pots are labeled BAL 100ohm and they are in the middle of the board. 
   
  Luckily I have an open SRM-1 Mk2 so I could make sense of your readings but indeed, 304 is fubar and has to be be replaced.  Since 303 is fine you can just get a normal 1/4W 2M2 resistor and swap it out.


----------



## svyr

>Luckily I have an open SRM-1 Mk2 so I could make sense of your readings but indeed, 304 is fubar and has to be be replaced.
   
  Lol, sorry. Thanks.
   
   
  http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR1658&keywords=2m7&form=KEYWORD uuuumm? that one? 
   
  Err, I think I'll also replace the C008 for a good measure (35v,470uf) http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RE6338&keywords=470uf+35v&form=KEYWORD ...
   
  Btw, Do you or kevin recommend replacing anything else appart from all electrolytic caps as a just in case measure for old stax driver units? (the min order price is about $15, I think, so I might as well buy everything I could need?)
   
   
  Btw, I'll post the pic of the rewired transformer thingy in a few minutes. and a table of what wire is connected where. Is the voltage being lower on the bias caps and the power caps also because of R304 fubar, or something else?
   
  Quote:


spritzer said:


> There pots are labeled BAL 100ohm and they are in the middle of the board.
> 
> Luckily I have an open SRM-1 Mk2 so I could make sense of your readings but indeed, 304 is fubar and has to be be replaced.  Since 303 is fine you can just get a normal 1/4W 2M2 resistor and swap it out.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I am currently hunting for an entry level Lambda system. If anyone happens to see one for sale please let me know. I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## svyr

Mkay, so the thing at the back still looks like http://assets.head-fi.org/b/b7/1000x500px-LL-b719aa0f_dscf0954.png
  Pics of the transformer wiring (sorry, couldn't quite get it out even with the back cover off and bottom cover off)
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    
  Pics of the trans wiring.     
  The last pin on the right in the top row is not connected to anything btw (bit hard to see)
   
  >Luckily I have an open SRM-1 Mk2
  Could you possibly measure the voltage on accross the bias cap and the power caps as well? (c007,5,6 and C302).


----------



## spritzer

Those parts look fine and the electrolytic parts are the only units which don't age well.  The film caps, resistors etc. hold up much better. 
   
  For 230V operation you need purple and gray wires tied together (which from the looks of it, they are) but you also need blue and white tied together.  Now for some unknown reason Stax has two white wires.  The one connected to the blue one should come directly from the AC socket and not from the transformer.  All the other wires should be isolated and not connected to anything. 
   
  It's not possible to measure anything on my unit.  It's missing the output devices and the PSU caps.  I'm not even sure it works once all that has been installed...


----------



## svyr

>Those parts look fine and the electrolytic parts are the only units which don't age well. The film caps, resistors etc. hold up much better. 
   
  great, thanks very much!
   
   
  >For 230V operation you need purple and gray wires tied together (which from the looks of it, they are) but you also need blue and white tied together. Now for some unknown reason Stax has two white wires. The one connected to the blue one should come directly from the AC socket and not from the transformer. All the other wires should be isolated and not connected to anything.
   






 uuum, I definitely remember there is at least one wire that's white and goes from the transformer... and I have no idea about the brown wire that's for some reason there...

 I'll have a look when I get home... Is there any way at all to the voltage it's wired for, without the 'trace the wire' game?
   
  (in other words. I'm a bit scared to resolder it as purple+gray and blue and white (where white is the one from the power plug). (re: new transformer = over $9000 each))


----------



## Lil' Knight

What kind of transformer that costs $9000 each?


----------



## svyr

sorry, lolz reference. I was told the official stax part one costs $200ish. 
  Quote: 





lil' knight said:


> What kind of transformer that costs $9000 each?


----------



## Henerenry

So I got my lambda signatures today, a nice change from the o2, it lacks some the refinement and is quite a bit brighter, but the "semi panoramic sound" is quite fun indeed.
   
  Why did I waste so muh time and money with dynamics


----------



## spritzer

You have to trace the wire, no other way of doing this.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Why did I waste so muh time and money with dynamics


 
   Because they're great....


----------



## svyr

tracing isn't a problem, I'm not that lazy. 
  Quote:


spritzer said:


> You have to trace the wire, no other way of doing this.


 

  Kay, so I take it none of the wires are connected unless explicitly soldered together with another wire, or soldered to the same pin (the voltage switch would connect them, if it was installed on the other side).
   
  So, with that in mind, here's a list of wires connected together and where they come from (white only):
   
  Gray to purple (both from the transformer's top row closest to the back of the amp).
  Blue to white (white goes from the psu to a pin, to where it connects to blue, nothing else is connected to the pin that white crosses over)
   
  Wires that are connected to the thing in the back, from the transformer, but don't really go anywhere else after that: 
   
  Green (bottom row, 2nd pin from the left, lookin from the back panel into the amp), brown (3rd pin, same row), white (3rd pin top row).
   
*So, in other words, it really does look to be wired for 240v (or was it 230?).*


----------



## spritzer

I must say I have a rather hard time understanding that.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  It doesn't matter where the wires are soldered, only that the white wire from the PSU switch at the front of the amp is connected to the blue wire coming from the transformer and that the other wires are not connected to anything. 
   
  The setting for the transformer is 230-240V, the system is setup for -10%/+5% so it doesn't have to all that precise.


----------



## svyr

lol, thanks. Gray is connected to purple, white from the psu is soldered to a pin first,but then connected to the blue.
   
  brown, green and another white from the transformer are soldered to a pin, but those pins aren't connected to anything. 
   
  transformer white and psu white are not connected
   
  better?
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I must say I have a rather hard time understanding that.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

Much better.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Once you've installed the new parts then the amp should function but I would adjust the DC offset and balance just to be sure.


----------



## svyr

ah yes, thank you for reminding me... Something about BAL100ohm and 
   
  >To set the DC offset you first set the meter to 100V or more DC. Then you put the red and black probes in the+ and - sockets for each channel and adjust the balance pot for that channel (which is marked on the PCB) for 0VDC. Once that is done then you remove the black probe from the - output and connect it to ground. Now you adjust the offset pot for 0VDC as well. 
   
*Should there be any signal from the source when I measure this and what volume on vol control at the front of the driver unit?*
   
*Do I turn the unit off to adjust the pots (i.e. **[turn on, check, turn off, adjust] cycle? or just turn on, [check/adjust]?*
   
*So, L+ (rprobe) /L- (bprobe), turn BAL pot, L+ and grnd, turn OFFSET pot? The repeat with R+/R- and the corresponding BAL/OFFSET pots? (aim to get 0VDC on all 4 pots/measurements).*
   
uuuum, can post a pic and circle the pots in red, and ask 'is this it' to make sure? edit: <eeerrr, nevermind, couldn't see it on the schematics, but it's really 'in the middle of the board' on the amp and clearly marked as 'bias' and 'offset'
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Much better.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Bullseye

Hey there you electrostatic headphone nuts, today after a long time of not being able to enjoy music I played some music with my Koss ESP-950 + SRM-323, and had forgotten how revealing and nice they are. 
   
  Anyways, as I haven't been able to waste time reading loads of threads, wanted to know if any of you have the Beyerdynamic T1 and the ESP-950 and how do you think they compare? Or talking about STAX how do SR-202 and T1 compare? 
   
  I am having this disturbing thoughts of selling a lot of stuff and going for one of the "big guys".
   
  Any input will be appreciated and ridiculed if possible


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





bullseye said:


> Anyways, as I haven't been able to waste time reading loads of threads, wanted to know if any of you have the Beyerdynamic T1 and the ESP-950 and how do you think they compare? Or talking about STAX how do SR-202 and T1 compare?


 

 Have the T1 and have had the SR-202 (drivers now used in a Sigma housing). Clearly prefer the Stax as it is faster, more dynamic and effortless. The tonal balance of the T1 is not bad but all the magnetic energy marketing stuff doesn't make it more lifelike. With the T1 I never ever forget for even one moment that I'm listening to music through a headphone. The 202 (or the Lambda Pro that I still have) managed that to some extent, albeit not always and largely dependent on the music and my mood.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





svyr said:


> ah yes, thank you for reminding me... Something about BAL100ohm and
> 
> >To set the DC offset you first set the meter to 100V or more DC. Then you put the red and black probes in the+ and - sockets for each channel and adjust the balance pot for that channel (which is marked on the PCB) for 0VDC. Once that is done then you remove the black probe from the - output and connect it to ground. Now you adjust the offset pot for 0VDC as well.
> 
> ...


 

 The amp has to be on and it is better to do this when the amp has reached its normal operating temperature, so let it run for an hour or so before adjusting it.  Input or volume level doesn't matter (you aren't measuring AC here) and the procedure is correct.  Just go easy on the pots since they are a single turn carbon units and they can be a bit temperamental.


----------



## Bullseye

Thanks for the reply.
   
   
  Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Have the T1 and have had the SR-202 (drivers now used in a Sigma housing). Clearly prefer the Stax as it is faster, more dynamic and effortless. The tonal balance of the T1 is not bad but all the magnetic energy marketing stuff doesn't make it more lifelike. With the T1 I never ever forget for even one moment that I'm listening to music through a headphone. The 202 (or the Lambda Pro that I still have) managed that to some extent, albeit not always and largely dependent on the music and my mood.


 

 Anyone else that also owns any of these Stax HPs and/or ESP-950 and the T1 to give me some opinions?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





henerenry said:


> So I got my lambda signatures today, a nice change from the o2, it lacks some the refinement and is quite a bit brighter, but the "semi panoramic sound" is quite fun indeed.
> 
> Why did I waste so muh time and money with dynamics
> 
> ...


 

 I have commented in another thread that the 02 has a somewhat retsricted soundstage compared to many lambdas, especially if the back foamf the lambdas is removed.  When I got my Signature, which turned out to be an LNS, the back foam was disintegrating/disintegrated which i dtermined was actually a good thing sonically because new foam made them sound like crap.


----------



## Henerenry

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I have commented in another thread that the 02 has a somewhat retsricted soundstage compared to many lambdas, especially if the back foamf the lambdas is removed.  When I got my Signature, which turned out to be an LNS, the back foam was disintegrating/disintegrated which i dtermined was actually a good thing sonically because new foam made them sound like crap.


 
  Well, I was just stirring, in regards to the dynamics question, however, that being said, I cant see myself buying another dynamic headphone...
   
  I agree that the O2 doesnt have the "spacious" sound stage that the lambda has, the lambda has the most "speaker like" presentation of any headphone I've ever tried, more so than the hd800. Actually, I find that the lambda and the hd800 are quite similar in presentation although I find the lambda to be more bright and slightly better bass.
   
  I still think the the O2 is a better headphone, but I find myself using the lambdas more often as they are connected to my computer rig, (they are great for fps!)


----------



## soundoholic

Hello to all,
  this thread is so exciting, with almost 1000 pages a genuin mountain of informations I appreciate it so much. I want at the beginning to thank you all here, especially to Spritzer, for the competent and rich info to all stax questions. My first Stax SR-5 gold, new one,  I became as a student. Today I possess 007A,  404LE, some other old but good Lambdas, a Gamma and a Sigma. And my SR-5 gold plays as well!
  My first dilemma concerns the sound difference between new and old 404. As mentioned here the 404 driver bevor 2009 and the new one in LE (and newer 404) have not the same sound signature. I believe Spritzer that can be a little factory manipulation at the 2009 version. My question: Who knows the serial numbers of 2008 and the numbers of 2009 after introduction of LE version? Is the number SS1-25xx  of newer or older 404?! Many thanks for your  response, you can help me a lot.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> Hello to all,
> this thread is so exciting, with almost 1000 pages a genuin mountain of informations I appreciate it so much. I want at the beginning to thank you all here, especially to Spritzer, for the competent and rich info to all stax questions. My first Stax SR-5 gold, new one,  I became as a student. Today I possess 007A,  404LE, some other old but good Lambdas, a Gamma and a Sigma. And my SR-5 gold plays as well!
> My first dilemma concerns the sound difference between new and old 404. As mentioned here the 404 driver bevor 2009 and the new one in LE (and newer 404) have not the same sound signature. I believe Spritzer that can be a little factory manipulation at the 2009 version. My question: Who knows the serial numbers of 2008 and the numbers of 2009 after introduction of LE version? Is the number SS1-25xx  of newer or older 404?! Many thanks for your  response, you can help me a lot.


 

 Good first post!  I can't help with serial numbers, but wanted to say welcome to head-fi (and sorry about your wallet).


----------



## spritzer

The Stax serial numbers are hard to workout since they change from region to region.  In Japan they are still counting from zero (as in the first Lambda in 1979) but Europe and the US are different. 
   
  In other Stax news, it's been a productive week.  I rescued a SR-Omega from dead, verified that the SRM-727 does indeed suck in stock form but this can be easily fixed with 8 resistors and that some mild work on the SRM-300/310 can make it a pretty good little amp.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *soundoholic*
> 
> My first dilemma concerns the sound difference between new and old 404. As mentioned here the 404 driver bevor 2009 and the new one in LE (and newer 404) have not the same sound signature.


 

 Really, there is a different 404 (non-LE) with a different driver? Is this true for the 303's as well? I must have missed this, in which way do they sound different? Can they be differentiated by other means than the serial number, perhaps they look a bit different, I don't know?!


----------



## spritzer

The drivers look identical from the outside.  My SR-404 certainly doesn't sound anything like the couple of dozen 404's I've had before but I know nothing of its history.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> Hello to all,
> this thread is so exciting, with almost 1000 pages a genuin mountain of informations I appreciate it so much. I want at the beginning to thank you all here, especially to Spritzer, for the competent and rich info to all stax questions. My first Stax SR-5 gold, new one,  I became as a student. Today I possess 007A,  404LE, some other old but good Lambdas, a Gamma and a Sigma. And my SR-5 gold plays as well!
> My first dilemma concerns the sound difference between new and old 404. As mentioned here the 404 driver bevor 2009 and the new one in LE (and newer 404) have not the same sound signature. I believe Spritzer that can be a little factory manipulation at the 2009 version. My question: Who knows the serial numbers of 2008 and the numbers of 2009 after introduction of LE version? Is the number SS1-25xx  of newer or older 404?! Many thanks for your  response, you can help me a lot.


 




  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The drivers look identical from the outside.  My SR-404 certainly doesn't sound anything like the couple of dozen 404's I've had before but I know nothing of its history.


 


 It's a good point about models changing their sound characteristics over years of manufacture.  My questions are;
   
  Is this explained by the fact that older models are "breaking in"
   
  And just what are the sound differences and what sounds better, old or new?


----------



## soundoholic

Yes, indeed! The serial no. are different in EU and e.g. Japan. Thanks! Tomorrow or a day after I will know at little meet, if the 404 are equal in sound. We compare LE and the new stax stuff of my friend. I can remember that a similar comparison a year ago gave me some  very interesting conclusions. That's why I asked about.  Obviously, the drivers are the same to our eye...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> It's a good point about models changing their sound characteristics over years of manufacture.  My questions are;
> 
> Is this explained by the fact that older models are "breaking in"
> 
> And just what are the sound differences and what sounds better, old or new?


 
   
  There is no such thing as breakin.  Anybody who has opened up one of these drivers knows just how much BS break'in is.  What we are hearing is a deliberate change in how the drivers are made much the same how the SR-SC1 is.


----------



## Priyajeet

What is the most apparent (or couple of) difference(s) that one would notice on 404 versus an O2?
  Wider soundstage and more bass?!?


----------



## Henerenry

Its not so much wider as it is bigger, the O2s can go very wide if the music has the right cues. The lambda signature that I have on the other hand just has a big soundstage, it is always big, that being said, it still "images" really well.
   
  I have heard more "impressive bass" on my lambda but bare in mind that my amplification may not be bringing out the best in the O2, the O2 definately isnt bass shy though.
   
  The Lambda is also a lot more bright than the O2.
   
  The O2 is also a lot more "natural," think a live jazz session (O2) versus produced pop (Lambda)
   
  If you have ever heard grados, I'd say that the 404 is similar in its sonic signature (its actually quite similar to the hd800 as well) It is a really "fun" sounding headphone.
   
  Considering it was less than a 1/4 of the price of my O2, its great value, and I think a great way to get introduced to STAX in general. I would say that my lambda signature is at least on par techincally with my hd800.
   
  P.S. I read that the older lambda signatures are some of the more detailed headphones in the lambda family due to there thinner diaphram, I am definately hearing lots of detail, though as with some of the other comments in the thread seems like different Lambdas have different sonic signatures, I believe though that the soundstage comment will always remain true. 
  
  Quote: 





priyajeet said:


> What is the most apparent (or couple of) difference(s) that one would notice on 404 versus an O2?
> Wider soundstage and more bass?!?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is no such thing as breakin.  Anybody who has opened up one of these drivers knows just how much BS break'in is.  What we are hearing is a deliberate change in how the drivers are made much the same how the SR-SC1 is.


 

 I don't know if it's BS but I don't see how you can determine break-in by just looking at a driver.  The only test I can think of is comparable measurements of something like frequency response and sensitivity  of the same phones over time.  I doubt that anyone has done this but  it would be nice to start now.
   
  One uncontroversial type breakin which is largely overlooked is flattening of the earpads with use  and I bet that changes the sonic signature.


----------



## spritzer

What is there to break-in?  The diaphragm doesn't move, it only vibrates, and the rest of the driver is just brass/copper.  The diaphragms are tight as a drum and if they would move then they wouldn't last long with a DS gap of 0.5mm. 
   
  There is also no charging issue, the diaphragm is fully charged in a few milliseconds or it is defective. 
   
  Now amplifier warmup OTOH is very real and so is the thermal drift that is associated with it.


----------



## svyr

Iiiit's aliive. (the srm-1/mk2). 
   
  I managed to desolder the old c008 cap and the 2 resistors (304/303) and solder on new ones... I've also adjusted the offset/bal to what seems to be +-1-3 depending on the amp's mood when it's been running for a couple of hours. Thank you for the help spritzer and kevin! 
  It now works. Well, sorta 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 . It's also pleasant to hear that it doesn't clip at high volume, or at least my ears clips first, unlike with the SRM-300. Although the sound is a bit less to my liking than the SRM-300 - more towards neutral instead of warmer mids/more bass.
   
*There're 2 more problems: *
   
*a) R is slightly quieter than L. At first I didn't notice it. But now it's noticeable and annoying. *
*Aside from beating my head at the wall and then buying a new driver unit, is there anything I could to determine the cause/correct it (I guess playing a test tone and measuring output on both channels to whether it's my ears would be a good start, but not sure how)*
   
*b) There's a hum + quiet crackling at any volume. It's quite faint and only noticeable when there is no signal (the source is plugged in and on, just nothing's playing). Sounds kinda like a 1khz test tone overlayed by radio crackling when the station isn't quite right. Kinda reminds me of the hum I used to get on my laptop's built-in soundcard, where you can sort-of hear feeback from the ext hard drive reading things... O-ooooh it is that hum...Except on an ext DAC...(when I unplug the DAC from usb it disappears, when I scroll browser pages the hum tone changes...sounds a bit like a 56k modem at times 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). *
  The hum is there on both SRM-300 and SRM-1/mk2, but I never actually noticed it on the SRM-300 (it seems I listened to it a bit quieter)
   
  Any ideas? (maaaybe my dac isn't properly grounded... oh-s111)


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





henerenry said:


> ...
> The O2 is also a lot more "natural," think a live jazz session (O2) versus produced pop (Lambda)
> 
> ...
> P.S. I read that the older lambda signatures are some of the more detailed headphones in the lambda family due to there thinner diaphram, I am definately hearing lots of detail, though as with some of the other comments in the thread seems like different Lambdas have different sonic signatures, I believe though that the soundstage comment will always remain true.


 

 If I test two so different ES I prefer only one best recording (my test CD) and even comparison only of few characteristic bars. Two ES with the same shape I test blind. I don´t think you can test the natural sounding with electronic music. Pop, Rock - mostly, and partly jazz use today  advanced E-Instruments with specific colour what after all goes in the "washing machine" of mixer, equalizer, different soundprocessors and and. So you can say only very little how naturally an ES sounds. You can say more with recordings of acoustic instruments or voice if correctly recorded. That´s why I do prefer piano, classic orchester or voice if I test. As musician I have in my head the patterns of the music hall sound to compare with. That makes the difference. Everyone hears other way.
  I have heard many many lambdas and sure they are different. IMO they have more soundstage to O2 but I found more details in 007. My 007A is built 2010 and I hate it! This O2 sounds not natural at all. I know the other O2 they are much better. Why? Because, as I thnk, the manufacture manipulate every year / two years the driver. Perhaps other diaphragm tension, perhaps the different glue, maybe too wide technology tolerance or something else, I don´t know. But I hear the difference very present. I use 717 or a DIY mod HighAmp with Accuphase classicals test CD at DP-500. Even though far from optimum the 404LE brings a lot more pleasure because of more naturality. The same to my lambda Signature with 1 micron diaphragm: Too bright for all of us but with very very true and detailed sound. It´s only my opinion!
   
  @edstrelow
  "One uncontroversial type breakin which is largely overlooked is flattening of the earpads with use  and I bet that changes the sonic signature."
   
  Yes. It suits, the pads play important role in changing sonic signature, imo. But I don´t believe any other break-in exists.
   
  How good will be the new 507?


----------



## spritzer

Any hum present in both amps is a source issue.  Try them with any other source you have (tv, ipod etc.) and see if the hum goes away.  As for balance issue and crackling, that is probably the volume control pot acting up.  You could try to clean it with something like Caig Deoxit or if that fails, replace it.  You won't be able to get a dual pot like that anywhere but a normal Alps RK27 will fit but you will need a new knob as well.


----------



## svyr

Hmmm, the hum is there with both musilands, not there with cowon d2 mp3 player. Awesome... 
   
  Irony:http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=1&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.musiland.com.cn%2Findex.php%2FProduct%2Fshow%2Fid%2F185%23&sl=auto&tl=en (point number 7).  
   
  Heh, I tried over 2 different usb hubs and ports and using 3 different cables - still humming. What can I do to get rid of it/what could be causing it? 
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Any hum present in both amps is a source issue.  Try them with any other source you have (tv, ipod etc.) and see if the hum goes away.  As for balance issue and crackling, that is probably the volume control pot acting up.  You could try to clean it with something like Caig Deoxit or if that fails, replace it.  You won't be able to get a dual pot like that anywhere but a normal Alps RK27 will fit but you will need a new knob as well.


----------



## spritzer

It's probably a groundloop with the computer.  The only real way of getting rid of it would be to use a optical connection from the computer to a DAC.  I don't recommend lifting the ground with cheater plugs...


----------



## svyr

*COULD A MODERATOR PLEASE SEPARATE ALL OF MY/RESPONDER'S POSTS RELATING TO THE SRM1 troubleshooting into a thread in the DIY section? *
   
  heh, it's a laptop, so pulling the power plug and running on battery works as well, but given that my battery lasts for an awesome 10 mins max...
   
  Annoyingly, while the hum goes away, the quiet crackling never goes away, but you said it may be a bad connection.
   
  >I don't recommend lifting the ground with cheater plugs...
   
  Why? Burn the usb port/controller|dac|myself?
   
  Is there anything I could do to the usb side e.g. http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/131544/ground-lifting-a-usb-cable ?
   
  Quote:


spritzer said:


> It's probably a groundloop with the computer.  The only real way of getting rid of it would be to use a optical connection from the computer to a DAC.  I don't recommend lifting the ground with cheater plugs...


----------



## spritzer

Most laptops aren't grounded in the traditional sense (there is no AC inside so no need for it) so a ground loop isn't the issue here.


----------



## svyr

that makes me confused. So why does the hum go away when I switch to battery power (unplug the AC adapter)? (although, the crackling/pops still remain =(, but are less prominent ) 
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Most laptops aren't grounded in the traditional sense (there is no AC inside so no need for it) so a ground loop isn't the issue here.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I am waiting on a pair of Nova Basics and a Spritzer modded SRD-7. Just thought of something. I am using a high end receiver to power the SRD-7. What should I set it to. Large speakers? Small? I suppose large so that I get full range sound correct?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





svyr said:


> that makes me confused. So why does the hum go away when I switch to battery power (unplug the AC adapter)? (although, the crackling/pops still remain =(, but are less prominent )


 
   
  I missed that.  Very odd but there can be quite a few reasons for this.  Have you tried any of this with a different computer?  Given that the computer is old (10mn battery time would point to that) the caps may be toast inside it.


----------



## neoTT

*STAX New Product*
*SR-207 and SRM-252S*
   
  Earspeaker and Driver sets 
  SRS-2170 (SR-207 and SRM-252S)
  SRS-005S (SR-003 and SRM-252S)
   
http://blog.joshinweb.jp/ichinose/2010/09/stax.html (Japanese page)


----------



## gilency

interesting. Nothing in the English section yet. Still waiting to see what the new portable system is going to be like.


----------



## jjinh

@Vlad: Silly suggestion, but have you checked to make sure the two volume controls (L and R) are at the same level? Else for a quick fix you could just make R side a bit louder to equalise the volume. 
   
   Quote:


			
				neoTT said:
			
		

> *STAX New Product*
> *SR-207 and SRM-252S*
> 
> Earspeaker and Driver sets
> ...


 

 SR-207 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Considering how much I like the SR-202s, I'm definitely getting a pair!


----------



## svyr

>@Vlad: Silly suggestion, but have you checked to make sure the two volume controls (L and R) are at the same level? Else for a quick fix you could just make R side a bit louder to equalise the volume. 
   
  first thing i did. Unfortunately it's not that simple. R is the inside control and you have to hold L in place to turn it. It's very difficult to get it right this way. If Kevin or Birgir or someone else who knows how to, let me know how to measure per channel output, I can probably do a better job. 
   
   
  >I missed that. Very odd but there can be quite a few reasons for this. Have you tried any of this with a different computer? Given that the computer is old (10mn battery time would point to that) the caps may be toast inside it. 
   
  sorry, that was a bit confusing on my side. The crackling popping is still there with the mp3 player. So I guess we're back to the stuffed pot/and or singing transformer and or bad connection somewhere problem?
   
   
  p.s. The crackling/popping is distinct from the problem I had with the SRM-300 and SRM-252. It is also not related to the grounding issues (although the grounding issue really is annoying). The crackling before was from the amp clipping and was loud/on high volumes.
  Here's it's subtle and audible at any volume, with no source playing (gets more audible, the louder you turn it up. You can also hear it with music playing at low volumes). It also only happens on the SRM-1/mk2 and not on the SRM-300 (as does the bal issue).
   
  p.s.s.:
   
   
  mkay, 
  here are the measurements (err, in the VdB mode AC, which is hopefully right. Laptop running on battery, so no annoying hum): 
   
   
*FULL Knobs turn: (the readings drift, hence the range) *
  no signal - 0-2v all.
  @tone: sine wave, 0.5 amplitude 1khz:
  R+ 279-281
  R- 279-280
  L+ 278-281
  L - 279-282
*I also tried 1.0 amplitude. and both channels all +- were at around 300V also with drift. *
*I also tried vol knob at around 2 o'clock:  (little drift)*
   
  L+ 187.1, L- 187.0
  R+ 187.7, R- 188.3
   
*and 1'oclock: *
  All +- LR were dead set at 46.2V. no drift. 
   
  So aside from the slight drift at the full vol turn, it seems I need to get my right ear checked for why it seems lower?
  By the way, with the tones, it's a lot more noticeable that the transformer or something on the board near it occilated and produces the same tone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. It's very much audible at ful vol and 1 or 0.5 db. 
  Now I'll try to bypass the vol ctrl to see if it's the cause for clipping.


----------



## svyr

>http://blog.joshinweb.jp/ichinose/2010/09/stax.html (Japanese page)
   
  mmm, nice, and it also says 'SRM-252S amplifier is the gain increase.' (yay for google translate). 
   
  The description for SR-207 sounds a bit like the 507 one (blabla new design, blablaba humidity and vibration reduced, blablaba 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
  Heh, they should start selling the SR-207/202 separately...


----------



## Czilla9000

I'll been in college for the past 4 years or so. Since them my Stax Classic 2 System (SRM-313 and SR-303) has remained in storage...
   
  ...until now.
   
   
  I've graduated, and the big boy is coming out after its hiatus. After spending my college years primarily with the Ultrasone DJ1 and Sennheiser HD201 (as well as the Grado SR325i and the JVC DX1000), the Stax is back. I'm hooking it up tomorrow...
   
  What should I expect?
   
  What modern dynamics can my olde' Classic 2 system compete with?


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





czilla9000 said:


> I'll been in college for the past 4 years or so. Since them my Stax Classic 2 System (SRM-313 and SR-303) has remained in storage...
> 
> ...until now.
> 
> ...


 
  It depends on your source and interconnects. My 3030 (303 + 313) competes with (and overall surpasses) my cheaply (t-amp) powered K1000, so I'd not expect your dynamics to have any chance in front of the Stax.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





svyr said:


> >@Vlad: Silly suggestion, but have you checked to make sure the two volume controls (L and R) are at the same level? Else for a quick fix you could just make R side a bit louder to equalise the volume.
> 
> first thing i did. Unfortunately it's not that simple. R is the inside control and you have to hold L in place to turn it. It's very difficult to get it right this way. If Kevin or Birgir or someone else who knows how to, let me know how to measure per channel output, I can probably do a better job.
> 
> ...


 
  With respect to checking if a problem is due to your ears, put the phones on backwards. If the channel balance shifts to the other ear, it's the amp or phones. If not, maybe an ear syringe/check is in order?
  The left/right volume control is easy - use a mono recording and centre it.


----------



## dave650

Sorta off topic, this.
  I am loving my new Stax SR-507s through a SRM-T1.
  i don't have any other Lambdas to compare them to, but they do blow away my SR5s, naturally, and of course the HD650s I just sold.
  Never having heard the R10s, I can safely say, for me, any dynamic cans I can afford are bloody toys with them Stax around.


----------



## svyr

lol, 'good news' - i have a flu =(. means the channel imbalance is most probably all in my ears. That probably explains why I thought the srm-300 was ok, since now I got my CD3000 and think the left ear is quieter. hmph, what do you know, one flu ruined the weekend and the start of the week - oh well at least no work for 1 day. 
   
  Quote:


john buchanan said:


> With respect to checking if a problem is due to your ears, put the phones on backwards. If the channel balance shifts to the other ear, it's the amp or phones. If not, maybe an ear syringe/check is in order?


 

  >The left/right volume control is easy - use a mono recording and centre it.
   
  I was trying it with a tone generator in audacity. But nevermind


----------



## padam

Two new upcoming products from Stax, the SRS-005S and the SRS-2170
   
http://blog.joshinweb.jp/ichinose/2010/09/stax.html


----------



## Amarphael

Good fellas, Does anyone knows and kindly could share what Stax are charching for headband+arc replaced for the O2?


----------



## Jodet

Trying to reach the U.S. importer on the phone is like pushing rope uphill.   Either they ignore it, or its busy for hours at a time.  
   
  It's like that old Monty Python sketch with the Firemen sitting around and the phone rings, 'that again? leave it off the hook!'.


----------



## Nuggets83

*Repair a STAX SR Lambda Pro*
   
  Hello all together!
   
  I hope to get some information in this thread with you very experienced and skilled users.
  In my case, I bought a Lambda Pro that is not working properly. At the left side, the transducer makes rattling noise from midrange levels on.
   
  In order to investige the reason for this behavior, I disassembled the headphones; especially the left transducer.
  There I could figure out, that the inner (ear side) filigran foil has a little (ca. 0.7 cm) disruption. So the real transducer and the electrodes aren't safe from dust and air humidity.
   
  I use a SRM-T1 as amplifier and I have also a "normal" Lambda. In combination with my ED-1 (diffusfield equaliser) I love the sound balance of the Lambda Pro very very much. In my opinion the Pro is also more detailed than the "normal" Lambda.
  There rise doubts that a new headphone like the SR303 will not reach this sound balance of the Lambda Pro.
   
  Because of this features I want to stay with the Lambda Pro, so I have some questions:
   
*1.) What exactly is the reason for this rattling sound?*
*2.) Can the transducer (ripped protection foil, rattling sound) be repaired?  What are the odds that the transducer will work again?*
*3.) If yes to repair: where?*
*5.) What must crucially be done?*
*6.) Can STAX provide original Lambda Pro transducers?*
   
  I know that this are much questions from one, who posted hardly.
  Although perhaps somebody is willing to help me to bring my loved Pro to sound brillantly again.
   
  Thanks a lot!
  Nuggets83
   
  edit:
  Some day ago I opened a WTB-thread for Pro spare parts / replacement:
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/513243/wtb-stax-sr-lambda-pro-at-least-one-side-working-any-optical-condition


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





nuggets83 said:


> *Repair a STAX SR Lambda Pro*
> 
> 
> *1.) What exactly is the reason for this rattling sound?*
> ...


 
  I think, the others can help you answer your questions maybe more properly. I apologize if something in my explanation is not OK and everybody is asked to correct me. Here my point of view:
   
  1. If the protection foil is damaged the first suspicion to the rattling sound is a hair or some dust inside.
  2. It ´s not easy, but I hope it can be removed.
  3. Ask Spritzer. He is able to help you I guess.
  5. After the transducer is properly cleaned one must replace the protection foil.
  6. The original drivers  - no. You can get only some others from newer Lambdas. Then your Lambda Pro ist not the same after the operation.


----------



## soundoholic

Three days ago I promised to say something about a short test of two Lambdas: Of my 404LE (2009) and that 404 (the prod. date unknown) of my friend. The impression do not surprise me. These two are slightly different in the sound signature, the differences even though insignificant are audible. We have tested with a Stax Amp and Accu DP-400 in a blind test. Whereas the 404 showed a typical famous edge in highs and e.g. violin / piano,  sounding a bit hard and more brightly, the 404LE could provide the same music bars more gently, almost without audible edge and hardness, with some kind roll-off in higher treble.
  I repeate - there are nuances! The bass definition was also slightly different, however you can really argue which version is better and this is imo the question of preferences.
  The conclusion? Please, test yourself.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I have seen that about 26.6 watts is optimal for an energizer.
   
  Is there a limit to how much power a SRD-7 can take? I have a very powerful receiver w/ 120 watts per at 8 ohms. Just take it easy on the volume?


----------



## Jodet

Are there any Stax dealers in the Western part of the US?   I'm in Arizona, I know there are no dealers here.  
   
  I've emailed them twice asking this question, both times they're replied without answering.
   
  And I swear, Stax U.S. LEAVES THEIR PHONE OFF THE HOOK.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> I have seen that about 26.6 watts is optimal for an energizer.
> 
> Is there a limit to how much power a SRD-7 can take? I have a very powerful receiver w/ 120 watts per at 8 ohms. Just take it easy on the volume?


 

 Hi, I am using a 1977 Marantz 2238B, I have read in AudioKarma that the 2230B is a bit better sounding at 30wpc. You should be able to pick one of eBay, of course they most likely will need a full re-cap, new lights and a good cleaning. Good luck.


----------



## spritzer

As it has been said time and time again, the SRM-727 is a major letdown and basically sounds bad.  It's muddy, non linear and a stark contrast against the neutral Stax sets and older Stax amps such as the SRM-1 Mk2 and SRM-717.  The output stage also drifts which causes even further abnormalities as the amp heats up.  Now Dr. Gilmore posted a few pages back a fix for these issues but it was up to me to verify that the fix did indeed work.  It was my amp after all so it was only fair that I'd have all the fun. 
   
  First off, here is a picture of the mods that have to be done as they look on my own amp (do note that the picture is quite large).  Basically you have to remove and replace 4 resistors per plug-in board and move the ends of two of them elsewhere.  There are two of these boards in the amp and they are identical.  Now the fix Kevin posted only extended to two resistors per board, i.e. fixing of the feedback loop, but I decided to swap out the two 560ohm resistors (R5 and R6) for 200ohm units to increase the gain of the unit and make it similar to the other Stax amps.  You are dealing with large SMD resistors here and the work is made a lot more difficult by Stax fixing them all in place with some sort of adhesive.  Even if you manage to desolder both ends without damaging the traces then the adhesive will no let the resistors budge.  This makes this a rather harder nut to crack so some soldering skill is needed before attempting this mod.  Care should also be taken to not solder too far down on the gold tab since it might damage the socket.  You should also note that the amp will require rebiasing after this is done, standard DC balance and offset as with the other Stax DC coupled amps. 
   
  Once the mod is completed you basically have a new amp on your hands.  It isn't muddy with overblown bass any more, now it is sharp and with clean, detailed bass.  It might even be a bit too sharp with some sources, tending to be just a bit bright when pushed but at sane volume levels it is just lovely.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I recommend thin copper tape cut with a sissors to be exactly the same width as the circuit land, placed
  over the land to extend beyond the top of the socket. Makes things very easy after that.
   
  The glue that holds the resistors down is a bit of a nusance, but does soften up when you hit it with
  a soldering iron.
   
  I'll add another thing that the gain resistors do not have to be removed.
  Small 1/8 watt resistors can be put in parallel with the resistor already on the
  board without having to remove them. Value= 316 ohms.


----------



## soundoholic

"Hi, I´m a Stax-Expert at HeadFi and just play with new drivers for my new project: SR-008..."


----------



## krmathis

Cute! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  I am sure he will grow up to be another Head-Fi'er - he have great taste already.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





krmathis said:


> Cute!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 SR-007, SR-404LE, HD800... I agree


----------



## ztsen

He doesn't seem enjoying the SR-008..  Maybe you should try the lamba..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
  Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> "Hi, I´m a Stax-Expert at HeadFi and just play with new drivers for my new project: SR-008..."


----------



## soundoholic

Thanks, Krmathis. In fact he prefers O2, hmmm... @jjinh: Yes, there are these ESP, correctly identified! @ztsen: No, he doesn´t like lambdas, not because of sound, but the shape of transducers...
  007A was just in test, it´s only a concentration, as you see, nothing else.  He has tested HD800, but some brightness in treble seams to be not his taste.


----------



## TommyTunes

Well since I got my 4040II system two weeks ago, I've had the bug for SR-007II's.   Today I bit the bulleted and ordered them from Elusive Disc who actually had them in stock.  I'll be getting them Thursday, can't wait.  The best thing they will let me see into the future.  I see a Woo WES sometime in 2011.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I have a Stax Nova Basic coming today  and a SRD-7. Do I need to plug the srd-7 into the wall?


----------



## spritzer

Is it the one with my boards?  If so then it needs AC to function.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Is it the one with my boards?  If so then it needs AC to function.


 

 Yep. Ok. Thanks.


----------



## Jodet

Buying from Japan?
   
  Good idea?  Bad idea?   Is there someone other than the importer who does service work on Stax?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Buying from Japan?
> 
> Good idea?  Bad idea?   Is there someone other than the importer who does service work on Stax?


 


 Good idea.  I have had good luck with EIFL.  I don't know about service/repairs though.   My Stax stuff has been pretty reliable.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Wooo. The Nova Basic likes Sabbath! Fat, thick bass lines that you can hear the strings thrum like you are in studio. Nice. Listening to a Japanese recorded version btw. Stellar SQ compared to any other Sabbath disc.
   
  The Nova Basic is definitely a darker version of the Lambda normal bias I had before. Kind of Sennheiser 650 to a Beyer 880 difference. Might just be my setup though. I really think using my HT receiver to power things is a bad idea. Thinking of trading for a dac and tube amp. Going to give it a week or two and get acclimated to things.


----------



## tigermilk

Personally I like to buy in person in Japan.  Make a vacation of it, listen to some nice gear, and come home with something.
  
  Quote: 





jodet said:


> Buying from Japan?
> 
> Good idea?  Bad idea?   Is there someone other than the importer who does service work on Stax?


----------



## Stein

I got my Stax in Japan. Saved a looot of money over importing it, too. Pretty much the only problem with it is that the warranties are only valid in Japan, so you're pretty much SOL if something goes wrong~
  Quote: 





jodet said:


> Buying from Japan?
> 
> Good idea?  Bad idea?   Is there someone other than the importer who does service work on Stax?


----------



## soundoholic

@jodet
  Look at little "Stax-Expert" -photo page 938 above- O2 and 404LE are from pricejapan.com. Service, contact and reliability are absolutely to recommend.


----------



## DaveBSC

Isn't that pretty much the case anyway in the US? Can Elusive Disc or another dealer replace the headphones or amp if something goes wrong, or are you expected to call Yama's with a problem?
  
  Quote: 





stein said:


> I got my Stax in Japan. Saved a looot of money over importing it, too. Pretty much the only problem with it is that the warranties are only valid in Japan, so you're pretty much SOL if something goes wrong~


----------



## Jodet

I know a dealer won't fix a pair of headphones.   But will Yama even work on gray market goods? 

  
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Isn't that pretty much the case anyway in the US? Can Elusive Disc or another dealer replace the headphones or amp if something goes wrong, or are you expected to call Yama's with a problem?


----------



## DaveBSC

My question was if you buy from a Stax authorized US dealer and your only option is dealing with Yama's for service, is the warranty even worth the paper its printed on?
  
  Quote: 





jodet said:


> I know a dealer won't fix a pair of headphones.   But will Yama even work on gray market goods?


----------



## edstrelow

I do  recall YAMASINC telling me that they wouldn't fix grey market equipment and since they had serial numbers of all the equipment they brought in they could make good on that threat.  But it's hard to know if Yama's is  really operating right now. 
   
  The Japanese sellers usually say that you need to return things under warranty to them.  Since I have never had a warranty claim on Stax items I have never tested this with EIFL, the distrubutor I usually have used.


----------



## Jodet

Considering the rep Yamasinc has I'm wondering if it might be faster getting these serviced by sending them to Japan!
   
   
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I do  YAMASINC telling me that they wouldn't fix grey market equipment and since they had serial numbers of all the equipment they brought in they could make good on that threat.  But it's hard to know if Yama's is  really operating right now.
> 
> The Japanese sellers usually say that you need to return things under warranty to them.  Since I have never had a warranty claim on Stax items I have never tested this with EIFL, the distrubutor I usually have used.


----------



## TommyTunes

I've bought my 4040II system and Omegas from Elusive Disc this way IF there is a problem, I can let them handle it.  YAMA's doesn't even answer their calls.


----------



## gilency

Sigma Pro for $1800.00 at Audiogon. This guy must be crazy!
  $3000.00 with the SRM-007.
   
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1290712785&/STAX-sigma-pro-srm-007-


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Sigma Pro for $1800.00 at Audiogon. This guy must be crazy!
> $3000.00 with the SRM-007.
> 
> http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1290712785&/STAX-sigma-pro-srm-007-
> ...


----------



## gilency

I have one of each and don't think I need another one.
  Eventually may change one of them (the normal bias?) to a Sigma404.
  And the seller is in Riverside, CA. Close to my home (Redlands) and yours!
  By the way, don't miss Sarah Chang at the Riverside Fox theater October 14th. Paid only $60.00 per ticket, 3 rows from the stage! She will play in OC afterwards, but tickets there (and Disney Hall) are close to $300.00 for equivalent seating.


----------



## edstrelow

Whoa.  The Low Bias Sigma sold for $510.00!
   
  I was hoping it would stay below $100 so that I could get it and turn it into a Sigma/507.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Whoa.  The Low Bias Sigma sold for $510.00!
> 
> I was hoping it would stay below $100 so that I could get it and turn it into a Sigma/507.


 

 I wonder if a fellow HF'er bought it? I suppose putting a link here isnt the best way to keep prices low.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I wonder if a fellow HF'er bought it? I suppose putting a link here isnt the best way to keep prices low.


 


   True but I only mentioned it after the price hit $200.00, which was well above where I wanted it to be.


----------



## soundoholic

There are big sound differences between Sigma with normal bias (230V), Sigma Pro and modded Pro with 404 drivers. I know it for me, that my normal bias version is the best one as I heard to another earlier. However I modded that one a bit, because this type imo has too much insulation material inside.
  You could obtain a Pro version at only 380 EUR at german ebaaay just yesterday. But the normal bias Sigma goes at 500-600 EUR.


----------



## padam

No it doesn't it is by far the cheapest of the lot but if you obtain a pair with worn damping, it will not sound that good.
   
  I was offered a NOS Sigma normal bias for 400 EUR a few months ago, don't know if the offer still stands or not but if anybody is interested I will give the contact details.


----------



## gilency

I don't know.I listen to the Pro more than my normal bias nowadays.  like them both. A lot!
  My goal of getting an 007 keeps being delayed by my enjoyment of my Sigmas, and by my children's college bills.


----------



## nkoulban

I'd like to get into Stax gear, specifically Omega IIs.
   
  From what I have been able to glean to really get the best out of the Omega IIs you should look at non-Stax amplification such as Woo or HeadAmp (Gilmour).  I like the idea of keeping the amplification Stax, keeps things simple and slightly less expansive.  I assume that the Stax amps below (SRM-007tA and the SRM-727A) are decent amps with the difference being valves in one and SS in the other.  They also offer balanced operation so I could use a balanced DAC.
   
  I would be most grateful for opinions on these amps vs other options.


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





nkoulban said:


> I'd like to get into Stax gear, specifically Omega IIs.
> 
> ... I assume that the Stax amps below (SRM-007tA and the SRM-727A) ...
> I would be most grateful for opinions on these amps vs other options.


 
  There are many opinions written in this thread - please use the search function and you find it.


----------



## nkoulban

Thank you I will.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

I also like to run my Stax Pro and Non Pro headphones on Stax Amplifiers.  I have tried other amplifiers with Stax, names I will not mention, but I was present at Canjams in 2007, 2008 and 2009 and I have attended other local NYC area meets.  I must admit that I have never heard a really clear sound when Stax were used on other high end amps.  There was always something missing; a blury mid range or a bass that was tight.  I think that Stax has got it right with the Omega twos and the SRM007t; with the 4070 and the SRM007t and the Sigma Pros and the SRM))7t.  I am not so sure about the SRM007ta.  I also question whether the Stax company will honor a warrantee if you are using one of it's products with another amplifier.  Scottsmrnyc


----------



## spritzer

Given that Stax have sold quite a few of Dr. Gilmore's amp designs under their own name (i.e. they licensed them) it would be hard to suddenly say they were somehow incompatible.  For some of the other amps and designs around they could give you grief but they never will.  If the headphones are broken then Stax will fix them, simple as that.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Thanks for the correction and the new information.  Scottsmrnyc


----------



## ak622

I have a pair of O2 MK1 coming my way but I only have a 313 to power them.  After reading this thread and a few others, the recommendations for O2s seem to start at a minimum of a 717s and recommended KGSS.  I hope I'm not too underwhelmed by them.  The best I've heard the O2s were on a WES (I've never heard the KGSS or BH/BHSE) and I was impressed with how they sounded.  I hope the 313s will do the job for a while until I can save up and move up the ladder to power them properly.  
   
  Other than the 717s (they don't seem to go on sale often), are there any other under the $2K mark that will be suitable (albeit not the best), GES possibly?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> Other than the 717s (they don't seem to go on sale often), are there any other under the $2K mark that will be suitable (albeit not the best), GES possibly?


 

 Your best bet is probably a KGSS-HV. It should cost less than the price of a used 717 to build one.


----------



## ak622

Thanks for the reply Dave, but I can't DIY for the life of me..  So unless its pre-built, commericial or otherwise, that won't be good for me
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Your best bet is probably a KGSS-HV. It should cost less than the price of a used 717 to build one.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> Thanks for the reply Dave, but I can't DIY for the life of me..  So unless its pre-built, commericial or otherwise, that won't be good for me


 

 I can't build amps either, but I'm sure some folks will be offering to build HV units for a fee. That's how I'm planning to get mine. The other option is a Woo WEE and an amplifier.


----------



## spritzer

The 717 is your best bet but the 727 is an option though it can be much better if you just swap out 8 resistors.  The stock amp is very colored but that doesn't mean you won't like that coloration.  I would advise you try it before you buy though, the sound is that polarizing. 

 I do quite like the GES as well and I personally wouldn't waste money on upgrading the parts inside.


----------



## ak622

Thanks for your comments Spritzer!  I look forward to hearing it out of my 313 first and then decide on how I want to step afterwards.  It won't be immediate so i'll have time to wait for one of those units to be available.


----------



## spritzer

I for one started off with a 313 and it isn't a bad amp by any means, just a little less power than we'd like.


----------



## ak622

Thanks again Spritzer!  And from reading this thread, you've moved up quite a bit (a definite understatement on my part) from the 313.  I hope to be able to hear the O2 from BHSE or T2 to hear how the O2 can really sing.  I'm exciting to hear the O2 MKI from my system soon.


----------



## n3rdling

It's a great heaphone, I think you'll like it a lot.


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> ...
> Other than the 717s (they don't seem to go on sale often), are there any other under the $2K mark that will be suitable (albeit not the best), GES possibly?


 
  Maybe I can show here an alternative (to KGSS??) . This Amp (highAmp) plays also with any Omega (007A) neutral and powerful (+-500V, 60dB gain):
   

   

   

   

   
  Class A amp with my config and design. Not soooo very expensive.


----------



## svyr

http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html ( http://www.high-amp.de/html/transistor_eng.html / http://peter.family-rill.de/Projekte/Stax-HybridAmp-TransistorAmp ) 
   
  heh, where do we buy one assembled 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 and if it's possible for how much?
  Kevin and spritzer will probably kill me soon after I've been annoying them for about a month now trying to fix my srm-1/mk2. Need a new driver unit =(. 
   
   
  Also, what do people think of the amp vs kgss or exstata? 
  Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> Maybe I can show here an alternative (to KGSS??) . This Amp (highAmp) plays also with any Omega (007A) neutral and powerful (+-500V, 60dB gain):
> 
> Class A amp with my config and design. Not soooo very expensive.


----------



## Beefy

That is the amp that the Exstata was inspired by, isn't it?


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





beefy said:


> That is the amp that the Exstata was inspired by, isn't it?


 

 I have no idea.But I think, it could be very interesting to make some comparisons.
  @SVYR: I ´ll send you a PM.


----------



## middachten

Owning a Stax and not having posted in this massive tread somehow feels just not right......
  But I guess that problem is solved now
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  And being pretty new on this forum, but quite experienced regarding Stax, I find this a tremendously informative and useful place to browse!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





beefy said:


> That is the amp that the Exstata was inspired by, isn't it?


 


 Yup, this is basically a SRM-1 Mk2 on steroids and with a better PSU design.  For 1K€ it is a good deal and it will make mincemeat of the Exstata.  The KGSS, let alone the KGSSHV, should be more evenly matched.


----------



## ak622

Thanks n3rdling!  I'm really excited to finally own a pair of O2s.  I've been reading about them all these years on head-fi but couldn't pull the trigger until I heard them for myself.  It was being powered but a WES and not a lowly 313 but I heard something pretty amazing so I decided to make a jump at them.  
  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> It's a great heaphone, I think you'll like it a lot.


 


soundoholic: Thats an interesting amp there.  I'm not looking at making a purchase now but is that a kit or a commercial amp?


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *ak622* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> soundoholic: Thats an interesting amp there.  I'm not looking at making a purchase now but is that a kit or a commercial amp?


 


  Same question here.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

gang,
   
  trying to clean my O2mkI (the previous owner liked food as much as music)
  i've managed to damage the bristle wires (silver) connecting drivers to the cable,
  as well as tear a bit the protecting (mylar?) foil....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  i've tried soldering those wires but they break like hell.
  is there any help for me apart from relpacing the drivers? maestro spritzer?
   
  best,
  jk


----------



## Lunatique

I'm about to pull the trigger on my Stax 007mk2 (007A) purchase, and it's hard to find a 717 to buy, while the current 727II (727A) is readily available everywhere. Has anyone actually A/B'd the 717 with the 727 and compared how they sound? Are they really that different or are we talking about very subtle differences that would take great concentration to actually hear? If the 727 is very similar to the 717 then there's no point for me to jump through hoops to acquire a 717.
   
  When I talked to a shop in Taiwan that sells both the 717 and 727 said that when the 727 first became available, the whole store compared both and everyone preferred the 727 since it sounded more balanced and more refined. This goes against everything I've read about the 727 vs the 717. So what gives? This shop sells both so it makes no difference to them which they sell to me, so they have no reason to lie.


----------



## n3rdling

You could always mod the 727...


----------



## padam

The 727 is bland and lifeless compared to the 717 (only audiod compared them side-by-side I think), but after a simple modification tested by spritzer it can be a bit better than the 717 as it was written previously. The gain can also be a bit low but that can be fixed as well.


----------



## soundoholic

@middachten and @ak622: It´s not a commercial amp.
  The idea comes from high-amp, german ingenieur: http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html
  You could diy but also you can buy it as ready amp from another specialist, hand-made in Germany. You can wish your individual config.
  My amp is absolutely perfectly assembled. The price is about that from spritzer mentioned.


----------



## spritzer

If they think the 727 is more balanced then they really should look into some other line of work as that's exactly what it isn't. 
  
  Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> gang,
> 
> trying to clean my O2mkI (the previous owner liked food as much as music)
> i've managed to damage the bristle wires (silver) connecting drivers to the cable,
> ...


 

 The PVC dust cover you can fix with a bit of scotch tape.  As for the silver ribbons, just use some very thin wire (28AWG) to jumper the gap but make sure to keep any and all soldering on the drivers as short as possible and always cover the drivers with a piece of cardboard or something similar.  On stray drop of flux can and will destroy the drivers.  I've managed to solder to those ribbons in the past and while it wasn't easy, it can be done.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Thanks Spritzer!
   You mean the flux cannot enter into the PCB sandwich?
  The soldering points at the drivers' side are quite comfortable,
  the worst was trying to pack it all well. I've tried resoldering the ribbons many
  times, but they kept breaking--could not control the tensions well,
  especially when trying to close. I'm thinking of trying something like
  van den Hul silver cartridge litz wire.
   
  As for the PVC cover, can it be accessed and replaced? It's the one on the inner (ear) side?
  Or is a small (5mmx1cm) piece of a scotch completely harmless?
   
  Many thanks,
  jk


----------



## spritzer

Just try to get a wire to stick to the ribbons and you should be all set.  The flux will not enter the driver along the FR-4 boards unlessyou heat them for way too long...  As for the dust covers, just put some tape on it and don't risk the drivers any more.


----------



## TommyTunes

Well it seems that the SR507's in the USA are impossible to come buy.  I took a chance and just ordered them from PriceJapan.  They seem like the most reputable of the Japanese companies.  Before I paid, I emailed them to check that they were in stock and they said that they were.  I had gotten a pair of the Omega's last week from Elusive Disc but had to return them.  I have a rather large head and the band caused significant pressure on the crown of my head to the point that it gave me a headache that lasted a couple of hours.
  Now the waiting begins.....


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just try to get a wire to stick to the ribbons and you should be all set.  The flux will not enter the driver along the FR-4 boards unlessyou heat them for way too long...  As for the dust covers, just put some tape on it and don't risk the drivers any more.


 


  The ribbons are gone now after several attempt to resolder them.
  I was thinking about van den Hul MCS-150M litz wire to replace them.
  Got your point with the cover. Anyway, I remember you changing dust covers on some drivers (HE60??).


----------



## kevin gilmore

here is a well known and expensive LOD from one of the major manufacturers.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_1441.jpg
   
  Taken by my camera, and you can't see it, but one of the solder blobs
  has come off the pin it was attached to. All the magic wire in the world
  won't fix this kind of solder job.
   
  If monstercable got into making LOD's you can be assured that the product
  quality would be way better, and the price would be less.


----------



## ak622

Wowzers, at that resolution, you get a full view of that major fail!
   
  TommyTunes: When is the ETA for your SR-507?  That's too bad that the O2s didn't fit you.  How long did you have them before you decided to sent them back?


----------



## nattonrice

That silver wire looks familiar...
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> here is a well known and expensive LOD from one of the major manufacturers.
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_1441.jpg


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tommytunes said:


> I had gotten a pair of the Omega's last week from Elusive Disc but had to return them.  I have a rather large head and the band caused significant pressure on the crown of my head to the point that it gave me a headache that lasted a couple of hours.
> Now the waiting begins.....


 

 You are aware that you can and indeed should bend the metal arcs to fit you head with a SR-007.  Not only is it for superior comfort but also the only way to get 100% performance out of the transducers. 

  
  Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> The ribbons are gone now after several attempt to resolder them.
> I was thinking about van den Hul MCS-150M litz wire to replace them.
> Got your point with the cover. Anyway, I remember you changing dust covers on some drivers (HE60??).


 

 Any wire will do but make it small and with high voltage rating.  If not, keep them really small and well away from each other or the housing. 
   
  I've often changed the covers but only when they were beyond saving.


----------



## TommyTunes

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> Wowzers, at that resolution, you get a full view of that major fail!
> 
> TommyTunes: When is the ETA for your SR-507?  That's too bad that the O2s didn't fit you.  How long did you have them before you decided to sent them back?


 
  PriceJapan said that they would ship out today 10/6,  so if that is the case I expect them by the end of next week but I'll be at Rocky Mountain so they'll have to wait until I get back. 
  I had the O2's for a day, I listened for about 5 hours. In answer to Spritzer it wasn't the width of the headband it was the pressure caused by the elastic that attached to the headpad. as the cups pulled down the elastic pressed on the crown of my head.  Just didn't find them comfortable.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Any wire will do but make it small and with high voltage rating.  If not, keep them really small and well away from each other or the housing.
> 
> I've often changed the covers but only when they were beyond saving.


 

  
  Looking at how stax has done the connection it's hard to imagine it can safely withstand theoretical
  limit of 2.2kVpp :O
  The space is very-very limited and I try to avoid a direct solder-to-solder contact between the cable
  termination and the pcb soldering points. Will post pics when done.
  BTW are O2mkII raw drivers the same or different from MkI??


----------



## spritzer

1 mill of air insulates about 100V so 1mm is plenty...


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> 1 mill of air insulates about 100V so 1mm is plenty...


 
   
  have you tried driving up to 2kVpp? I'm thinking of a 801A amp to achieve 2kVpp


----------



## nkkuma

Just got my lamda pro /Mk2 pro set from a fellow headfier.  I am really really surprised that headphones were already made to sound so great 25 to 30 years ago. and also disapointed that no major improvement was achieved by headphone industry for so many years while computers, cars and other machines were developing so fast. Compared with my little dot MK5 and recabled HD650 rig, the stax set provides more details in the music and sounds much faster, I can hear every notes in very fast music like the Dragon force. For the bass head like me, I also EQed a little bit more bass for the stax sound and found the EQed sound is very enjoyable for me. I think the stax mafia has another member joined today.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> have you tried driving up to 2kVpp? I'm thinking of a 801A amp to achieve 2kVpp


 

 The headphones will give up the ghost a little north of 1200V so no...


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Depending on how you count the volts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  I meant have you driven O2's to the max
  permitted by the 580V bias?
  (2x580V=1160Vmax stator-to-stator)


----------



## edstrelow

What's a LOD?
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> here is a well known and expensive LOD from one of the major manufacturers.
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_1441.jpg
> 
> Taken by my camera, and you can't see it, but one of the solder blobs
> ...


----------



## spacemanspliff

Hey do the SR-Lambdas have better mids and highs than the Nova basics? Just curious b/c while quite good, the resolution doesn't seem to be the same to me. The bass is probably stronger but the details are a bit less than I recall them being. I am working on memory though.  before.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> What's a LOD?


 
   
  Line Out Dock.
   
  I've never used one so I could be wrong but I believe they are used in conjunction with an iPod/iPad/iPhone to bypass the (low quality) headphone jack, and connect it to a device such as a headphone amplifier.


----------



## les_garten

And it is Line Level fixed output.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Depending on how you count the volts
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Why on earth would anybody do that?


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Why on earth would anybody do that?


 

 what is the objective of building 1.5kVpp or 1.8kVpp amps?


----------



## spritzer

Lower output impedance, higher slewrate, low noise PSU's etc. etc.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

I mean what is the objective behind the mentioned voltage swings and not
  under which conditions they are achieved. This will give the answer to
  your question as to why I'm asking about driving O2 to the max 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  more precisely: creating an amp capable of doing so.


----------



## ak622

The O2 MKI's arrived today.  I'm running them off the SRM-313 and I'm really liking what I hear, A LOT!  It's been a while since I last heard the O2 but I'm really digging it on my own set up.  I'm quite happy and I think I can lay off the upgrade path for a while.  I'm actually thinking about selling off my dynamic gear that might be neglected now.. yikes!


----------



## Currawong

I borrowed an O2/717 rig again, the former on condition that I repaired the wiring in the cups.  Holy crap those wires were small.  I had to set up a special jig and re-do the right cup wiring twice before it stopped cutting out.  It's second time lucky for me though, as my rig is better suited to them than the last time I had a pair here.


----------



## soundoholic

I have some, perhaps, difficult questions. Lambda vs Omega:
  1. How affect an oval and how a round diaphragm the sound?
  2. And how is the  tension of diaphragm? I imagine it must be perfectly adjusted: too loose - you lose the trebles,  on the other hand a lot of tension can destroy the bass. ?
  3. Is a diaphragm area in Lambda transducer bigger or this one in Omega?
  4. The treble is generated another way as low bass: Are treble more to find in the middle of diaphragm and bass will be generated more at the edges what I suppose?
  5. 4070 has similar transducers to Lamda 202/303/404 but I suppose, not the same. Are these only different  stators or also the diaphragm is attached in same way as in 507?
  Some answers could help us to mod the earpads/ESP or eventually to diy extra pads - more individual / more efficient.  We have different ears...


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I borrowed an O2/717 rig again, the former on condition that I repaired the wiring in the cups.  Holy crap those wires were small.  I had to set up a special jig and re-do the right cup wiring twice before it stopped cutting out.  It's second time lucky for me though, as my rig is better suited to them than the last time I had a pair here.


 


  Currawong, are you talking about those small silver ribons, connecting the cable to the PCB's?
  I'm fighting with the same problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  The space is so tight that when I pack the thing I get a solder-to-solder contact.


----------



## kinsale

I am Liquidating some of my headphones and have a question about some Stax I have.  They are the SR80-Pros + SRM-Xs.   I was wondering what I should ask for these in the ForSale forum.  Any idea?  I was also considering trader but still do not have a real idea about how much they are worth.
   
  Thanks guys


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Currawong, are you talking about those small silver ribons, connecting the cable to the PCB's?
> I'm fighting with the same problem
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yup, those ones. The design is pretty awful.  I thought it was corrosion, but it appears Stax left some green crap on one of the contacts as well, which I had to get off.


----------



## Brighten

Listening to Matisyahu's "Live at Stubb's" album out of the O2s and I am absolutely stunned. Live music in general sounds incredible. I've had these for almost a year and just can't press how detailed and clear these headphones are. One of the best investments I've ever made in my life.


----------



## Lunatique

I have found a used 717 (store demo unit) being sold by a headphone shop in Taiwan, and they are not willing to go lower than $1,260, since they say the price they get their products are more expensive in the first place. But I think they also know that the 717 is hard to find so they have leverage over me (at the same time, they want to recoup their money for the store demo unit, since a discontinued demo unit is useless to them). I asked about how long they've had it and how often it's used, and they said it's about 2~3 years old, and people have to set appointments ahead of time to listen to their Stax demo setup, and it's usually about 1~2 times a month. So that's roughly about 72 times total in 3 years, and it's usually stored in the storage case. I'd say that's not bad since if it was privately owned, it would be used far more often. I have listened to that exact unit a few months ago myself and it looks to be in great condition and sounded just fine, so I guess I'll go for it, unless someone on head-fi wants to sell a 717 to me for much cheaper and in great condition.
   
  The person I talked to also thanked me for telling him about the general consensus that head-fi Stax fans have about the 727 and the 717, and he did another comparison test and agreed, but that made him wonder why this time the result was different. He than looked into it and found out that the previous comparison test was done with the pre-production sample unit of the 727, and it sounded better than the 717, but this time he used a standard mass-produced unit, which sounded worse than the 717. He was surprised by how a sample unit and a mass produced one can sound so different. I also told him about the various issues that spritzer has been harping about all this time, and he said he'll read up on the Stax threads at head-fi and then have a meeting with the local distributor and then talk to Stax about it all. He suspects that the pre-production sample unit of the 727 did not have the same problems that spritzer has been talking about, and somehow Stax made those changes when they went into production.
   
  I asked him if he's heard the KGSS, and he said a customer brought one in before and it was better than the 717, but not completely. He said the KGSS is more powerful, dynamic, punchy, expansive, and "solid" sounding, while the 717 is more delicate and detailed，but not as visceral. But since the KGSS costs $1,000 more and I have never heard it in person, I don't think I want to take the risk of buying it blind. So I'll get the 717 for now and maybe in the future look into the KGSS.


----------



## n3rdling

The price on the 717 seems pretty fair to me.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I asked him if he's heard the KGSS, and he said a customer brought one in before and it was better than the 717, but not completely. He said the KGSS is more powerful, dynamic, punchy, expansive, and "solid" sounding, while the 717 is more delicate and detailed，but not as visceral. But since the KGSS costs $1,000 more and I have never heard it in person, I don't think I want to take the risk of buying it blind. So I'll get the 717 for now and maybe in the future look into the KGSS.


 

 Interesting about the differences between the beta and production 727, though this wouldn't be the first time that a new Stax amp sounds worse than an older one. Positive Feedback has some impressions of the KGSS vs. the 717 in their O2 review:
   
  "[size=x-small]Surprisingly, the incredible extremes, the lack of identifiable sound, the resolution, and the transient response stayed constant. All this I give to the Omega IIs, yet the two amps sound drastically different. The KGSS eliminated most of my midbass complaints. It sounded dramatically blacker and more linear than the 717. Resolution wasn’t better, but the KGSS allowed details to pop in the digital black and fade away quickly. Stereolab’s _ABC Music_ sounded like heaven. Bass guitar wasn’t as diffused as it was with the 717. The presentation was tighter, and the sound closer to what I expect from headphones as opposed to speakers. The Omega IIs with the 717 have an expansive soundstage, in which performers take another step back. The 717’s reproduction of acoustics will make it the choice for many. I’d take the KGSS, but you already know my bias."[/size]


----------



## Michgelsen

Lunatique, I agree with n3rdling that the price looks fair. However, the 727 was introduced in 2006, which makes it hard to believe that their 717 is only 2-3 years old.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Lunatique, I agree with n3rdling that the price looks fair. However, the 727 was introduced in 2006, which makes it hard to believe that their 717 is only 2-3 years old.


 

 Maybe that unit wasn't the sole unit they used for demo ever since the 717 was introduced? Perhaps they started using it for store demos later? I doubt I'll ever learn the truth, but even if they had it for double the time--say 6 years, it's still used a lot less than if it was owned privately by a music lover who listened to his headphones all the time.


----------



## soundoholic

Thanks for the PM answers, R. . I almost thought nobody is here interesting for that.


----------



## Currawong

As I understand it, the 717 is a KGSS with less power.  I have the Headamp boards here for the KGSS and the BOM, so I really need to get cracking building the thing.  There's too much going on at the moment though in my life unfortunately.


----------



## spritzer

The 717 is very similar to the KGSS since Stax licensed the design from KG.  It's not identical though as they made some changes to the output stage which is why the 717 has a definitive sound while the KGSS is more neutral.  The very simple, unregulated PSU also plays a part here plus some other design choices/cost cutting. 
   
  As for a pre production 727, what they could have heard would be basically a more powerful 323.  That's what a fixed 727 really is and with many similarities to the KGSSHV, at least in how the 3. stage is handled.  Now the 727 motherboard (the first stages of the amp are on plug-in cards) has the provision for a full feedback loop which would point to the whole non-NFB output stage being a later addition to the design. 
   
  One other thing, if you are going to use the 717 driven from a mixing console, then bypass the built in volume control.  The Alps RK27 is a rather poor excuse for a volume control IMO and it is easy to do.  Just use the supplied hex key to take the top cover off and flip the switch inside to direct.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> One other thing, if you are going to use the 717 driven from a mixing console, then bypass the built in volume control.  The Alps RK27 is a rather poor excuse for a volume control IMO and it is easy to do.  Just use the supplied hex key to take the top cover off and flip the switch inside to direct.


 

 Ooh, that's a great tip. Does the built-in volume control have a negative impact on the sound? If not, then it's not worth the trouble. But if it does, then I'll do as you suggested.
   
  I didn't remember to ask them if they still had the original manual and box and whatever else. Is there anything important that comes with the original packaging I need to know about? Can I find the user's manual online? The pdf's linked in Stax's website are all "under construction."


----------



## MuppetFace

I purchased a HeadAmp KGSS from a fellow head-fier, and it arrived yesterday. I set it up this morning with my O2mk1. WOW! Before they were dark, and now they've come alive. I know this is old news, but for me it's the first time I've truly heard them coming anywhere close to their true potential, and I must say I'm very impressed.
   
  I love my stat setup now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> Ooh, that's a great tip. Does the built-in volume control have a negative impact on the sound? If not, then it's not worth the trouble. But if it does, then I'll do as you suggested.
> 
> I didn't remember to ask them if they still had the original manual and box and whatever else. Is there anything important that comes with the original packaging I need to know about? Can I find the user's manual online? The pdf's linked in Stax's website are all "under construction."


 

 The volume control will always have an effect on the sound quality and the Alps RK27 isn't one of my favorites.  Since you have the ability to control volume elsewhere it is well worth it to try the switch and see which setting you like. 
   
  There is nothing of value in the instructions manual.  The only thing you should note is that the RCA-XLR switch at the back isn't an input switch but rather it just grounds the - part of the amp when using RCA's.  The XLR's are also setup in the traditional Japanese fashion with pin 3 as hot.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I purchased a HeadAmp KGSS from a fellow head-fier, and it arrived yesterday. I set it up this morning with my O2mk1. WOW! Before they were dark, and now they've come alive. I know this is old news, but for me it's the first time I've truly heard them coming anywhere close to their true potential, and I must say I'm very impressed.
> 
> I love my stat setup now.


----------



## Lunatique

Thanks spritzer.
   
  BTW, what's the deal with the KGSSHV? Is it a DIY kit only, or is it going to become a pre-made commercial product like KGSS? How much does/will it cost, and what's the wait time?
   
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I purchased a HeadAmp KGSS from a fellow head-fier, and it arrived yesterday. I set it up this morning with my O2mk1. WOW! Before they were dark, and now they've come alive. I know this is old news, but for me it's the first time I've truly heard them coming anywhere close to their true potential, and I must say I'm very impressed.
> 
> I love my stat setup now.


 

 Hey Muppet, I've been reading your posts in the LCD-2 thread but I don't recall what stat amp were you using before. (EDIT: Nevermind--I took a look at your profile and it lists your other amps.) How does it compare to the KGSS objectively? I don't mean audiophile hyperbole but very rational and objective comparisons (meaning if you had to concentrate hard to hear the differences, then the differences are very subtle).


----------



## n3rdling

KGSSHV is only DIY for now I believe.  Not sure if Justin or another MOT will make it commercial, but there hasn't been any indication that anybody will from what I know.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> KGSSHV is only DIY for now I believe.  Not sure if Justin or another MOT will make it commercial, but there hasn't been any indication that anybody will from what I know.


 
   
  What would be the reason to purposely keep a design as DIY only, especially if it's an improvement upon the current version (KGSS)? It costs too much to build? Takes too long? Will cost too much as a commercial product? I never understood the point of a DIY only thing when there are tons of people out there who are not experienced in building electronics and would gladly buy a commercial product.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> It costs too much to build? Takes too long? Will cost too much as a commercial product?


 
   
  All of the above, really. The benefit of DIY is that you use premium components and there is no manufacturer markup. So you can build things that would otherwise not be commercially viable.


----------



## Currawong

Might be an idea to ask Justin W. if he is going to build the HV since the KGSS is discontinued as far as I know.


----------



## Beefy

Yes, if it going to pop up, it will be a replacement to the KGSS at Headamp. Can't imagine it will be anytime soon though......

  
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> Might be an idea to ask Justin W. if he is going to build the HV since the KGSS is discontinued as far as I know.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> Hey Muppet, I've been reading your posts in the LCD-2 thread but I don't recall what stat amp were you using before. (EDIT: Nevermind--I took a look at your profile and it lists your other amps.) How does it compare to the KGSS objectively? I don't mean audiophile hyperbole but very rational and objective comparisons (meaning if you had to concentrate hard to hear the differences, then the differences are very subtle).


 

 Listening to the KGSS vs. 323A without concentrating too much on analyzing all the subtle differences, it was very obvious to my ears right away that with the KGSS the O2 was no longer dark sounding, had more pronounced bass, and had a larger soundstage. On the 323A it was like eating something prepared by one of the world's finest chefs, only with a cold: you can sense just how amazing it is, but it's being held back. 
   
  I was skeptical for a while about just how much more enjoyable the O2 could be on the KGSS vs. the 323A or T1W. I'm now a firm believer.


----------



## ak622

Congrats on the KGSS Muppetface!  I'm jealous that you were able to find one FS. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Before you got the KGSS, did you find the O2 was lacking for a better term out of the 323A and T1W?  Or was it when you got the KGSS when you heard it open up that you found that it was just missing that little bit.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





ak622 said:


> Congrats on the KGSS Muppetface!  I'm jealous that you were able to find one FS.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The O2 was nice sounding, even out of the 323A and the T1W, but I actually liked the Lambdas more than the O2 running off those amps. I think a lot of the comments that people make about the O2 sounding dark fit how they sounded out of the 323A / T1W. The level of detail was still greater than the Lambdas but the O2 just seemed a bit flat in comparison. I'd describe the O2 as "good" on those amps.
   
  With the KGSS they really do come alive. They go from good to excellent, and definitely beat any Lambda I've heard for listening enjoyment [to my ears].
   
  When I purchased my O2mk1 I didn't own anything better than the 323A, but I went ahead and bought them because the seller gave me a really good deal and they were in near mint condition. I just couldn't pass them up. They didn't wow me at the time on my 323A, and it was pretty obvious that it was due to the amp's lack of power. Until I purchased the KGSS, they stayed in their flight case tucked away safely while my 404LE got all the attention.


----------



## ak622

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The O2 was nice sounding, even out of the 323A and the T1W, but I actually liked the Lambdas more than the O2 running off those amps. I think a lot of the comments that people make about the O2 sounding dark fit how they sounded out of the 323A / T1W. The level of detail was still greater than the Lambdas but the O2 just seemed a bit flat in comparison. I'd describe the O2 as "good" on those amps.
> 
> With the KGSS they really do come alive. They go from good to excellent, and definitely beat any Lambda I've heard for listening enjoyment [to my ears].
> 
> When I purchased my O2mk1 I didn't own anything better than the 323A, but I went ahead and bought them because the seller gave me a really good deal and they were in near mint condition. I just couldn't pass them up. They didn't wow me at the time on my 323A, and it was pretty obvious that it was due to the amp's lack of power. Until I purchased the KGSS, they stayed in their flight case tucked away safely while my 404LE got all the attention.


 
  Thanks for the reply MuppetFace.  I guess I need to go out and hear a KGSS for myself to hear the difference.  I've heard them from the WES so I know they can sound better.  Right now I'm satisfied with my set up but the KGSS curiosity is really hard to fight off.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

I'm trying to decide which stax headphone to get with 350$ but it seems there isn't one that is really better than other and it depends on tastes..
   
  So which one you recommend and why,describe it sonically if possible.


----------



## gilency

There is a Sigma normal bias for sale at Ebay x 480.00 for anybody looking for one to buy.
  I have nothing to do with the seller.
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SIGMA-Panoramic-Earspeakers-EXCELLENT-Headphones-/130441968593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5ef27bd1#ht_540wt_1144


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The O2 was nice sounding, even out of the 323A and the T1W, but I actually liked the Lambdas more than the O2 running off those amps. I think a lot of the comments that people make about the O2 sounding dark fit how they sounded out of the 323A / T1W. The level of detail was still greater than the Lambdas but the O2 just seemed a bit flat in comparison. I'd describe the O2 as "good" on those amps.
> 
> With the KGSS they really do come alive. They go from good to excellent, and definitely beat any Lambda I've heard for listening enjoyment [to my ears].


 

 You're not the first to say that and i've always wondered something, does it mean the O2 sounds as bright as a Lambda out of something like the KGSS? Personnally I like the tonal balance of the O2 much better than all the Lambdas I've heard, even out of my 212. And that is precisely because of its more relaxed treble (and also the bigger bass). That is quite paradoxical to me, but maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## arnaud

SR-Omega III? Looks like I should not miss the fall headphone festival at Fujiya...
  => http://www.fujiya-avic.co.jp/d-style/1010_headphone_fes.html
   
  From the little I understood, this is just a prototype at this stage but there's a chance to have it unveiled at the end of the month?
  => http://avic.livedoor.biz/
   
  Ouch, I did not plan on this for xmas...


----------



## padam

OMG, that looks nice!


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> SR-Omega III? Looks like I should not miss the fall headphone festival at Fujiya...
> => http://www.fujiya-avic.co.jp/d-style/1010_headphone_fes.html
> 
> From the little I understood, this is just a prototype at this stage but there's a chance to have it unveiled at the end of the month?
> ...


 

 No Way. You gotta be kidding me.
   
  I just paid for a new 007mk2 and THIS? I'm very intrigued.
   
  Thank God the resell value of Stax products are high though.


----------



## MuppetFace

Yikes. Omega III.
   
  The style actually reminds me of vintage Stax a bit.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Yikes. Omega III.
> 
> The style actually reminds me of vintage Stax a bit.


 

  
  I was thinking the same thing. Those transparent grilles are reminiscent of the SR-Omegas. 
   
  Gonna go and lodge my tax return now =D


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





mobbaddict said:


> You're not the first to say that and i've always wondered something, does it mean the O2 sounds as bright as a Lambda out of something like the KGSS? Personnally I like the tonal balance of the O2 much better than all the Lambdas I've heard, even out of my 212. And that is precisely because of its more relaxed treble (and also the bigger bass). That is quite paradoxical to me, but maybe I'm wrong.


 

 Hmm. Interesting question.
   
  On the KGSS the O2 isn't dark, but I wouldn't exactly call it bright. Or at least overly bright. It seems to be balanced between the two pretty well to my ears. The 404s on the KGSS still seem _brighter_, so it's not really a question of making the O2 as bright as a Lambda.
   
  I've heard some people describe the KGSS as giving the O2 a drier more clinical sound as compared to an SRD-7 Pro or something similar. Whether this is the case or not, I happen to like the way it sounds, so perhaps that's just the way my preferences swing. Of course it's kind of a moot point for me at this stage, since I haven't heard them out of a Blue Hawaii or even a transformer box and a speaker amp, so I have nothing to compare them to except the 323A and T1W.
   
  The reason I preferred my 404LE over the O2 on my T1W and 323A was because the O2 seemed "held back" and restrained, and even though I hadn't heard anything better at the time the overly polite nature of it was still apparent. The 404LE on the other hand was really able to do what it does best without being hindered as much, presenting a large open soundstage and more lively sound compared to the O2.
   
  On the KGSS, the soundstage and presentation of the O2 are given life that the lower model amps I tried it on just couldn't produce. I no longer found myself wanting to go back to the 404LE because I missed those things.


----------



## jjinh

Thanks for your impressions. I keenly look forward to the day I own a proper amp so I too can hear my SR-007s to their potential.
   
  Interesting I've never thought of the 404LEs as having a "large open soundstage". They seem quite claustrophobic, e.g., compared to my lambda sigs.


----------



## Lunatique

Muppet - Just wondering, have you ever heard the SRM-717, and what did you think?


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Interesting I've never thought of the 404LEs as having a "large open soundstage". They seem quite claustrophobic, e.g., compared to my lambda sigs.


 
   
  Sorry, I should clarify. I meant to say the soundstage seemed larger and more spread out listening to the 404LE _compared to_ the O2 on the 323A and T1W. Didn't meant to imply the soundstage was larger than other Lambda models, just speaking of the relative comparison between the 404LE and O2 on the 323A.
   
  By the comment about being able to "do what they do best" on the 323A, I meant that the difference between the Lambdas on the 323A vs. KGSS was much smaller than the difference on the O2 between amps.
   
   
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> Muppet - Just wondering, have you ever heard the SRM-717, and what did you think?


 

 Sadly I haven't heard the O2 out of the SRM-717 yet, but I'm really curious to.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *MuppetFace* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Sorry, I should clarify. I meant to say the soundstage seemed larger and more spread out listening to the 404LE _compared to_ the O2 on the 323A and T1W. Didn't meant to imply the soundstage was larger than other Lambda models, just speaking of the relative comparison between the 404LE and O2 on the 323A.
> 
> By the comment about being able to "do what they do best" on the 323A, I meant that the difference between the Lambdas on the 323A vs. KGSS was much smaller than the difference on the O2 between amps.


 

 My apologies, I was just adding an aside.
   
  On my current set up I have the same impression as you in that the soundstage of the O2 is noticeably smaller than the lambdas.


----------



## Currawong




----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> My apologies, I was just adding an aside.
> 
> On my current set up I have the same impression as you in that the soundstage of the O2 is noticeably smaller than the lambdas.


 

 Thank you, I needed to clarify what I meant a bit.
   
  I'm curious: out of the Lambdas you've heard, which have the biggest soundstage? I've only heard the 404 and 404LE. Have you heard the Sigmas before? I really like the way they present music, almost like it's on your face.


----------



## gilency

Currawong: a new 007?? tell us more!


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Currawong: a new 007?? tell us more!


 

 It's the Omega III prototype. There are a few links several posts back.


----------



## gilency

oops. I missed them. I'll have to look for them.


----------



## mobbaddict

Thanks for the explanation Muppet!


----------



## n3rdling

It looks like a SR Omega with a new chassis/arc assembly.
   
  Muppet do you have a Sigma now?


----------



## donthuang

edit:
  double post,never mind


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Muppet do you have a Sigma now?


 

 I found one for a really good price, but it was missing the pads and headband. I'm in the process of fixin' her up, got new pads but still need a headband. The sound signature is absolutely delightful, just as you described.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Thank you, I needed to clarify what I meant a bit.
> 
> I'm curious: out of the Lambdas you've heard, which have the biggest soundstage? I've only heard the 404 and 404LE. Have you heard the Sigmas before? I really like the way they present music, almost like it's on your face.


 

 np. Out of the ones I've heard, I'd say the Lambda Signatures, but my music memory is poor, and I've never had the time to compare my Lambdas back to back. Also I removed the thin backing foam from mine... not sure if that's had any effect on the soundstage.
   
  My Sigma Pros feel like they need lots more power; "on your face" is how I'd describe my experience with the HE-60s. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy a pair. 
   
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I found one for a really good price, but it was missing the pads and headband. I'm in the process of fixin' her up, got new pads but still need a headband. The sound signature is absolutely delightful, just as you described.


 

 Congratulations on the purchase! If you need to replace the plastic headband arc any original series Lambda one should do.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Oh my Omega III is sexxxy.


----------



## MuppetFace

"Stax New Model Rush"


----------



## Mr.Sneis

I can't handle this, I hope some of this stuff is actually an improvement.


----------



## Currawong

I am very pleased to have the Omega II back in the house at present, even if they are just a loaner pair. I'll need to get a move-on and get my KGSS built.  I did have a quick listen to my LNS before I sent them off for a very regrettable sale -- it's much as I remembered -- they are brighter, but still very "fun" with plenty of bass and loads of detail.  The O2s have a more spacious sound with more detail.  The LNS have the best balance of intimacy vs. headstage on my rig, however.  It should be noted that the gear I own tends to throw quite a wide soundstage from its balanced configuration.
   
  I'll see if there isn't a chance for me to go to Tokyo and try the Omega IIIs if possible.  Bit of a long-shot though.


----------



## graben

I wish I could go too, but I work that day and I live in Osaka!


----------



## arnaud

After all this time in Japan, I never got a chance to meet with fellow head-fiers, that'd be an easy way to meet!


----------



## reiserFS

Sweet mother, look at that Omega III!


----------



## Maxvla

Very interested in the O3s. Will be interesting to see how they compare.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> After all this time in Japan, I never got a chance to meet with fellow head-fiers, that'd be an easy way to meet!


 

 Go to the Festival for us and make sure you bring a camera


----------



## livewire

O3's? Oh my!  I'll have to pick some up someday...
   
  For now I'll settle for a lowly SR2050II system.
  It's in the mail, I cant wait to hear it.
   
  This is my 50th post.
  I'm crossing the line from being a n00b to well, er, being a newbie.
  Two months of draining my wallet exploring what the dynamic world has to offer.
  Now I have the urge to climb the mountain a little higher to see
  what the stat thing is all about. I'm sure I wont be disappointed.
   
  Someone on Head-Fi said this hobby is like a drug addiction.
  I cant get enough. Gonna mainline some Stax. Weeeeeeee!


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Go to the Festival for us and make sure you bring a camera


 


  Ok, surely will


----------



## krmathis

arnaud said:


> SR-Omega III? Looks like I should not miss the fall headphone festival at Fujiya...
> => http://www.fujiya-avic.co.jp/d-style/1010_headphone_fes.html
> 
> From the little I understood, this is just a prototype at this stage but there's a chance to have it unveiled at the end of the month?
> ...


 
   
  Nice!
  Our dreams for an Omega III may have been heard - 13 years after the Omega II was released.
   
  Stax sure seem to be on a major roll these days. First the SR-404 Limited, then the SR-507, SR-407, SR-307 and now what looks like an SR-007 successor. Awesome!


----------



## Maxvla

Kai, you just thought buying an apartment would prevent any audio purchases.


----------



## krmathis

maxvla said:


> Kai, you just thought buying an apartment would prevent any audio purchases.


 
   
  He he
  No, I was fully aware that it would not end. Have to admit I mostly listen to speakers these days though - and need new ones somewhere down the road.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Alright.  So o2 mk1.
   
  Changing pads.
   
  Is there some sort of plastic or rubber seal piece involved in this process that can be accidentally broken?


----------



## spritzer

Nope.  The only rubber piece is the grommet which holds the spring inside the earpads in place.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Thanks spritzer. So is that a part of each pad? I am interested on a used o2 and this grommet seems to have gotten broken or lost on one side


----------



## spritzer

It's not a part of the pads so replacements will not be easy to source.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Looking forward to hearing the Omega 3s.  I guess it won't be long before Stax comes out with a new Amp of the Omega 3s as well.  Scottsmrnyc


----------



## jaycalgary

How would the Carver sonic hologram generator sound in a Stax system?  Now that I bought a new laptop it looks as though the cause of channel imbalance is a problem with the usb in laptops. I went from louder on the right channel now it is slightly louder on the left channel.


----------



## svyr

you sure you plugged the L/R cables the same way around 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





?
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> How would the Carver sonic hologram generator sound in a Stax system?  Now that I bought a new laptop it looks as though the cause of channel imbalance is a problem with the usb in laptops. I went from louder on the right channel now it is slightly louder on the left channel.


----------



## ak622

What are good sources for new 404 pads?  I can only think of Audiocubes2 and Bluetin.  But given that people are having issues with AC2 right now, I'm a bit leary and the 404 pads description says its "grey" instead of "brown" so I hope that just copied the 303s description.  I'm also open to good ebay sellers if there are any good ones worth recommending.


----------



## MuppetFace

Just an update: Audiocubes FINALLY sent me my order. It was in perfect condition, and arrived quickly once it shipped. Just kind of ridiculous it took a MONTH for it to get to that point.


----------



## gilency

They are indeed very slow. When I asked to cancel my Sigma earpads (1 month later) they finally told me it would ship soon. Shipping charges were also more just as expensive as the earpads themselves.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Bluetin were OK (fast) when I bought my pads from them.


----------



## svyr

pads surface on ebay from time to time. There's the jsomething store, and one more that both sells and auctions them. The other seller is buy now for $70. Speaking of pads - my 404 needs a pair too. My double sided sticky tape is no longer sticky at the top. 
   

 lol. mine emailed me that mine's shipped, but the tracking number hasn't shown up yet. Also took about a month.
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Just an update: Audiocubes FINALLY sent me my order. It was in perfect condition, and arrived quickly once it shipped. Just kind of ridiculous it took a MONTH for it to get to that point.


----------



## padam

You can try and make your own double-sided sticky tapes by buying them in a local shop and then just carefully cutting it to shape. No need to buy new pads because of that.


----------



## svyr

Thanks. lol. damn, I hate when I get good advice after buying stuff... Oh well, I'll have a spare pair of pads now. Double sided sticky tape sounds sufficient to fix mine indeed. Muuust sleeep more.
   
  Can anyone point to a specific brand/model of ds sticky tape that they mabe used for this purpose 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ? (or maybe more like adhesive sheets http://cgi.ebay.com/BULK-JAC-PAPER-Double-Sided-Adhesive-25-x-A4-Sheets-/380279270637?pt=AU_Scrapbooking this?)
   
  Also, how do I tear off the current one/chances of damaging anything?
  Quote: 





padam said:


> You can try and make your own double-sided sticky tapes by buying them in a local shop and then just carefully cutting it to shape. No need to buy new pads because of that.


 
  p.s. this is great lol...used to buy elastic hair ties for k340, now it's dble sided adhesive paper for glittery crafts.


----------



## Lunatique

My 007mk2 finally arrived, but the 717 is still on its way. Not being able to listen to my new precious when it's just laying there looking all sexy is just killing me!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> My 007mk2 finally arrived, but the 717 is still on its way. Not being able to listen to my new precious when it's just laying there looking all sexy is just killing me!


 

 I know how you feel, I bought my Mk1s before I had an amp to power them. It's tough, but you'll get through it


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> My 007mk2 finally arrived, but the 717 is still on its way. Not being able to listen to my new precious when it's just laying there looking all sexy is just killing me!


 

 Interesting! you bought the MK2's instead of the MK1's? why?


----------



## ak622

your patience will be rewarded Lunatique!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I hope its not too long of a wait till you can hear the O2 sing for you!


----------



## Mr.Sneis

LOL.  What if you have neither and have the means but are still waiting for the right deal


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I know how you feel, I bought my Mk1s before I had an amp to power them. It's tough, but you'll get through it


 

  
  Glad to see I wasn't alone when I made that move 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Lunatique, I'm sure you're going to enjoy yourself. Just feel like you haven't heard it off a BH.  I now know I must build something at least at that level.  That's why I'm a bit afraid of the O3.  I wonder how those sound.


----------



## ak622

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> LOL.  What if you have neither and have the means but are still waiting for the right deal


 


  LOL, you're in a good position Mr.Sneis, just not as good as Lunatique.  Just wait for a pair from a reputable seller and pounce on it!  I remember when I decided I wanted a pair of O2s but there wasn't any on sale for weeks.  But one night there she was, sitting in the FS forum and I just knew I had to jump on it and I don't regret it one bit at all.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Interesting! you bought the MK2's instead of the MK1's? why?


 
  The main reason is definitely because I've never heard the mk1, and will unlikely get a chance to hear it anytime soon, since I live in a crappy city in China and I can't see myself flying somewhere just to attend a meet where people are talking loudly all around you when you are trying to assess headphones that will cost you thousands of dollars to invest in. The only safe thing for me is the mk2 and the 717 since I have heard that combo and loved what I heard--in fact, I'm buying the same 717 store demo unit I heard months ago.
   
  I have been paying attention to the various member's posts for a while now, and I have some idea of their individual preferences. Based on what they have been posting, I feel that the mk1 might perhaps be a bit polite sounding, and the mk2 would be more lush and full-bodied, which is very important to me.
   
  There also the fact that the mk1 is out of production and I'm always very cautious about buying out of production products because the warranty is already long expired and often even parts are no longer available.
   
  I'm buying the Stax rig purely for a very musical and satisfying sound, instead of perfect neutrality/accuracy for my audio productions. I mean, if it can double as an excellent headphone monitoring rig, then great, but it's really not that important to me anymore--not since I realized there's no such thing as perfect neutral/flat, since any headphone that measures ruler flat will sound way too bright, and any ruler flat reference studio monitors will be skewed by room modes, even if you have extensive acoustic treatment. The only "flat" sound you'll ever really hear would be in an anechoic chamber, and that would sound very unnatural and uncomfortable anyway. Extremely high-end mastering studios perhaps have the ideal sound, but they are far out of the reach of even serious audiophiles, since they are very expensive to design and construct.


----------



## gilency

Thank you for your answer. I listened to the MK1 and the original Omega last week at the Los Angeles meet, as well as the LCD2.
  I was floored by the Omegas, they sounded so good!
  The MK1's were wonderful, but like you, the MK2'swill likely be the ones I buy when ready.
  The LCD2's were very nice, but to my ears, sounded a little boated in the bass and were more recessed in the highs. They are not in my wish list anymore.
  The Blue Hawaii was amazing. Spritzer built the one I heard. (N3rdling's).


----------



## spritzer

Glad you liked my old BH.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  It does make the SR-Omega sound sublime...


----------



## gilency

Spritzer, your BH built is the best amplifier I have ever heard. Not only the Omegas, but also the Sigmas sounded wonderful.


----------



## n3rdling




----------



## gilency

Hey Milos. Started building my SS eXStatA today, Have a few parts missing, but going great so far. Next one is the KGSSHV I hope!


----------



## n3rdling

Cool!  Looks like you really do have the DIY bug.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I wanted to let all the Stax fans know that there are some very important news on the amp front for us.  Dr. Gilmore and I are working on a new version of the KGSS (here after called KGSSHV) which will be a DIY based attempt to give people a truly high end electrostatic experience on a budget.  There will be a thread on this subject soon in the DIY forum but I wanted to give you lot the first heads up about the new project.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

*I am excited.*
*Is this happening yet?*
*Is there a waiting list for boards? Where do I sign up?*


----------



## gilency

Yeah. Many of us are waiting for it. No news in the last month though.....


----------



## Lunatique

Just curious, how much would the KGSSHV cost as a commercial product? And how much would it cost to have someone build one for you? There are plenty of people who can't solder worth a damn or lack the knowledge and confidence to do DIY projects in electronics.


----------



## Maxvla

If the 'under $500' is to be taken literally, a retail fully finished product with that type of part cost should be at least $1000, if not $1500 or better. 'On a budget' compared to say a BHSE.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> If the 'under $500' is to be taken literally, a retail fully finished product with that type of part cost should be at least $1000, if not $1500 or better. 'On a budget' compared to say a BHSE.


 

 I don't get it. That estimate is cheaper than the KGSS, and it's supposed to be an improvement upon the KGSS. So why not make it a commercial product and sell it?


----------



## Currawong

Headamp might well do that.  For a commercial product, it isn't as simple as you put it though.


----------



## n3rdling

Last I heard, justin wasn't interested in selling commercial KGSSHV's.


----------



## Maxvla

It seems their backlog is sufficiently full as it is. "8 week" delays are turning out to be several months.


----------



## Maxvla

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I don't get it. That estimate is cheaper than the KGSS, and it's supposed to be an improvement upon the KGSS. So why not make it a commercial product and sell it?


 


  What a standard labor rate goes for and what a completed amp with a lot of hype can sell for are 2 different things. We also don't know if that $500 included casing or merely the internals. If no casing that could easily be another $100 minimum. Headamp cases are always very nicely made.
   
  $2300 for a KGSS is probably worth it when you consider it's made by some of the best in the business, with excellent casing, and a 3 year parts and labor warranty. If you figure $50 an hour (pretty generous) does it really take 36 hours (2300-500 = 1800 / 50 = 36) to assemble a KGSS? I wouldn't think so, but that is the premium you pay. I'm sure you could get one made by a qualified DIYer for a good bit less, but it wouldn't have a warranty, and you couldn't be 100% sure of the construction.


----------



## Maxvla

While we're on the topic of Headamp stat amps, I noticed the Aristaeus and the BHSE are nearly the same price and both tubed amps. Anyone have a comparison between the two? I always hear about the BHSE, but not much of the Aristaeus.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> While we're on the topic of Headamp stat amps, I noticed the Aristaeus and the BHSE are nearly the same price and both tubed amps. Anyone have a comparison between the two? I always hear about the BHSE, but not much of the Aristaeus.


 
   
  I could be wrong, but I thought I read somewhere the Aristaeus was more suited towards the HE90, and the BHSE the SR-007.
   
  I believe some headfiers like Elephas have both, but they're not around here very often nowadays.


----------



## Maxvla

With the new Stax flagship coming out it will be interesting to see which amp seems to get the best out of them. Though I did notice on the Headamp site for the Aristaeus they are only making 4 more units, so perhaps a moot point.


----------



## svyr

lol, I'd be more worried about wiring the transformer(s?) the wrong way or wiring any other components the wrong way.. Learning to solder is not that big a deal. Learning to verify what you did is ok before you plug it in is the problem... Unless anyone plans to stalk Kevin or Birgir 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  >how much would the KGSSHV cost as a commercial product? And how much would it cost to have someone build one for you
   
  I asked Kevin recently-> to paraphrase: depends who does it for you/who you buy it from if built commercially/what parts (parts approx cost is above). Then it's purely time to build/verification/parts and mark-up based?
   
  Pretty sure the case was not incl in the $500 estimate, but i forget.
   
    
  Quote:


lunatique said:


> Just curious, how much would the KGSSHV cost as a commercial product? And how much would it cost to have someone build one for you? There are plenty of people who can't solder worth a damn or lack the knowledge and confidence to do DIY projects in electronics.


----------



## Amarphael

Need some help with stitiching my aquired DIY KGSS that got wounded on it's way to me. The transformer got out of it's seating, it was dangling freely and I found it laying in the corner of the mainboard PCB when i opened the case. worst problem that i notice are the three black and green wires that are disconnected from the transformer, can they be easily soldered back without messing with the transformer? 
   
  Here is before and after:

   

   
  Thanks for any input guys.


----------



## ujamerstand

Looks like the wire got pulled out of the transformer. You'll probably be better off getting a new transformer... It also looks like the caps got knocked out, if the leads are still there you could solder them back.


----------



## MuppetFace

Yes, from what I've heard speaking to people about the Aristaeus, it's designed for the HE90. I've heard some say it does well with the O2, and others seemed slightly underwhelmed. Either way, it looks gorgeous but for that price you're getting awfully close to a BHSE, so why not just go for what amps the O2 best?
   
  As for my KGSS, I'm pleased as punch with it. I'm not sure what some people complaining about it "not getting loud enough" in the LCD-2 thread were talking about. On my setup, it pushes the O2 to almost unpleasantly loud levels just three notches above totally silent. Out of all the amps I've ever owned, it gets the loudest the quickest, even with the notoriously power hungry O2.
   
  I've noticed that when operating it with a balanced source, it gets louder VS. that same source RCA. Also mine uses a 4ch DACT.


----------



## spritzer

The KGSSHV will be released when it is ready and fully tested.  Since I posted that initial post the design has been changed quite a bit and a lot of effort has gone into making this as idiot proof as is possible at these voltages.  The 500$ amount still stands but it never included anything except the populated boards plus transformer.  Attenuator, chassis, connectors etc. are all extra. 
   
  As for comparing something DIY made against commercial products in terms of price is always unrealistic.  If the stuffed boards cost 500$ then I for one would budget at least 500$ for the rest of the parts, chassis etc.  You can use a cheap attenuator but why would you.  A 4-gang TKD 2500 is about 250$ with the yen this high and even the Neutrik connectors aren't exactly cheap.  So if if costs 1k$ to DIY then 3-5k$ wouldn't be far off for a commercial product if  there will ever be a commercial version of the KGSSHV.  As it stands now, only Headamp offers the level of build quality that we deem is good enough with the rest of high profile manufacturers ranging from bad to downright terrible. 
   
  For the Rockhopper KGSS, you need a new transformer or insulate the leads and install another 36VCT transformer to drive the +/-15V supplies.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Spritzer, thank you for the help with my O2's! Looks like I've managed to save them.
  But soldering a 0.25mm silver litz was a pure, unrestricted PAIN!!! It took me 4hrs.
  The driver seems ok, at the beginning I heard a sort of a very-very silent hiss, like
  from an old AM tuner when tuning to a station, then it disappeared.
  Guess the diaphragm was fighting with
  some dust?
   
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





ujamerstand said:


> Looks like the wire got pulled out of the transformer. You'll probably be better off getting a new transformer... It also looks like the caps got knocked out, if the leads are still there you could solder them back.


 
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> For the Rockhopper KGSS, you need a new transformer or insulate the leads and install another 36VCT transformer to drive the +/-15V supplies.


 


  No hope for the current transformer i inderstand, As it'll become to crowded with two of them... So where do i get a new one? or better, the one that Headamp use in the commercial version as judging from the photo it's even larger than this not-to-shabby landmine. Oh and the leads are gone of the 2 grey cap-blocks so i'll need those as well i suppose. *sigh*


----------



## spritzer

No way to get the transformers Justin uses as that company is long out of buisness.  I guess he just bought up a bunch of them but the quality of my units isn't all that great.  The SumR transformers I'm using now are far nicer and a lot smaller too.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Sh..t, when I push, even gently the repaired earcup of my O2 towards the ear some silent noise or hiss sometimes appears and after a minute or less dissappears. This is not the stax fart which is waaaay louder. Any ideas?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No way to get the transformers Justin uses as that company is long out of buisness.  I guess he just bought up a bunch of them but the quality of my units isn't all that great.  The SumR transformers I'm using now are far nicer and a lot smaller too.


 


  Do you obtain them through the SumR business unit or from Primrose Audio? http://www.sumr.com/primrose.htm  I really like the Plitron in my FirstWatt, but I understand they are _very _expensive. Nelson always buys in quantity and gets great prices, so he tends to use the best.
   
  I notice that both SumR and Plitron are located in Toronto. I must be even more ignorant than I thought, I have never heard of this guy: http://www.plitron.com/standard-toroidal-transformers/tube-audio-transformers/audio-book-by-vanderveen/
   
  Clark


----------



## Lunatique

I have a question--one of the earpads of my 007mk2--the leather cover keeps slipping out whenever I rotate the earpad. This is very annoying because it takes some effort to get the edges of the leather cover back into the frame, and it happens too often. How can I prevent this from happening, besides maybe using a piece of electrical tape and just tape it in place so it doesn't slip out anymore?
   
  Also, It seems to me the D shape of the earpads should have the seam facing the front of my face, since the way the pads are elevated at a slanted angle is like any other headphone with slanted earpads out there, angling the drivers slightly like speakers in front of you.
   
  Oh, and the 717 finally got here today.


----------



## n3rdling

Wear the seam in the front to get a good seal.  Depending on your head, you will have to wear the pads so that the seam is somewhere between 9 and 11 o' clock to get the best seal possible.


----------



## jjinh

Nice to hear you finally got your amp! =D
   
  I wear my SR-007 seams facing forward, pointed slightly up. But like Milos says everyone's different - orient them however they sound best.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Is it just me or did the used market for 404LE's magically inflate overnight?


----------



## mobbaddict

Lunatique: maybe the leather pads are not well inserted. I own a demo set as well (Mk1) and it took me some time to realize the right pad was not properly replaced. Eventually someone posted this picture
  http://assets.head-fi.org/1/17/1730f8bc_stax-sr007pads.jpg


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SumR transformers I'm using now are far nicer and a lot smaller too.


 

 The current unit is a Avel Linberg LK 0721A, I guess it's rather mediocre in comparison? What are the specs required for the transformer anyway? maybe i can source somthing good locally.


----------



## soundoholic

@Lunatique - your pads edges
  The good way is to make some type of light collar at the edge. The leather as natural product is not always of same thickness and elasticity. You must completely take off the pads, remove the metal part and make 2-3 mm collar inwards per hand, eventually using some tool to delicate press it when pulling. If you put that again on transducer be aware to press the spring to help the collar going back in the frame.


----------



## Lunatique

Thanks for the tips.
   
  This was the problem I was having:

  I just try to pull the edge over to where the edge of the leather is supposed to go in, and then use the tip of a scissor to carefully stuff the edge back in a little bit at a time. And then, since I hate that the earcups housings are also rotatable, causing me to always have to make adjustments every time I put the 007mk2 on, I just went ahead and taped the earpads and the housings to the anchoring frame with black electrical tape:

   
  Now nothing rotates and I don't ever have to fiddle with anything anymore, which makes things much easier.
   
  As some of you know, I hate sweaty ears from pleather or leather earpads, so sanitary covers are a must in my studio:

   
  The used 717 I got looks very new, with everything that came with the amp still sealed in the box and the entire package looks practically new, so I'm pretty happy about that. Here's the 717:

   
  The new Stax rig integrated into the studio and hanging out with the other kids:


----------



## MuppetFace

Congrats on your SRM-717 find! I'm going to have the chance to try one out for the first time soon, so I'm excited to see how it compares to the KGSS. Yours indeed looks like it's almost brand new. Nice!
   
  That's kind of disconcerting about the O2mk2 though...


----------



## soundoholic

@Lunatique
  omega after surgery - lol. Nice photos!


----------



## Region2

Nice little adjustments Lunatique.
   
  No shower curtain for your O2s?  I'm rather paranoid so they're either in the flight case or on the stand with dust cover.
   
  And since they're right next to each other have you had a chance to do a more indepth A/B on the LCD-2 and O2mk2?


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Region2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> No shower curtain for your O2s?  I'm rather paranoid so they're either in the flight case or on the stand with dust cover.
> 
> And since they're right next to each other have you had a chance to do a more indepth A/B on the LCD-2 and O2mk2?


 
  I might make a simple cloth cover for the entire headphone stand/group, but I'm not sure yet if it's really necessary. The Stax manual seems to be pretty cautious with the various warnings and it didn't mention anything about protection for normal household dust--it only mentioned VERY dusty conditions. So unless you live in a desert where there's sandstorms, you probably don't need to worry about it?
   
  I have been doing extensive testing all day today, and I'll be doing more in the next few days, and I'll post the results when I'm done. So far I'm pretty surprised by how well the LCD-2 is holding it down, and a pink noise comparison showed me why some people are saying these two have a similar sonic signature--they really do, but there are also important differences too. I'll talk about them when I post my official review/comparison.
   
  In the meantime, here are a few more shots of the O2 and 717 hanging out in the studio, making new friends:


----------



## les_garten

I always feel like I live in a dusty environment.  My Wife uses Baby Powder.  That stuff gets everywhere!


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I might make a simple cloth cover for the entire headphone stand/group, but I'm not sure yet if it's really necessary. The Stax manual seems to be pretty cautious with the various warnings and it didn't mention anything about protection for normal household dust--it only mentioned VERY dusty conditions. So unless you live in a desert where there's sandstorms, you probably don't need to worry about it?
> 
> I have been doing extensive testing all day today, and I'll be doing more in the next few days, and I'll post the results when I'm done. So far I'm pretty surprised by how well the LCD-2 is holding it down, and a pink noise comparison showed me why some people are saying these two have a similar sonic signature--they really do, but there are also important differences too. I'll talk about them when I post my official review/comparison.
> 
> In the meantime, here are a few more shots of the O2 and 717 hanging out in the studio, making new friends:


 

 Interesting to see the contrast in equipment!
  The Stax setup and a set of K+H 300 on one hand and a Samson C-control on the other


----------



## frenshprince

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I have been doing extensive testing all day today, and I'll be doing more in the next few days, and I'll post the results when I'm done. So far I'm pretty surprised by how well the LCD-2 is holding it down, and a pink noise comparison showed me why some people are saying these two have a similar sonic signature--they really do, but there are also important differences too. I'll talk about them when I post my official review/comparison.


 
   
  I can't wait to read your review.
  Especially because, so far, I'm not really satisfied with the sound from my LCD-2 (but a Concerto on its way is supposed to change that) and the Omega is my next step too.


----------



## gilency

I listened to both at the LA meet, and to my ears, it was no contest, O2Mk1's hands down.
  Te LCD2's sounded a little bloated in the mid bass, not as clear as the O2's. Granted, it was at a meet, but I already unsubscribed to the LCD2 thread.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





frenshprince said:


> I can't wait to read your review.
> Especially because, so far, I'm not really satisfied with the sound from my LCD-2 (but a Concerto on its way is supposed to change that) and the Omega is my next step too.


 

 x2
   
  A friend is shipping me his LCD-2 to examine in case there are any problems so he won't have to deal with frequent trips to customs so I'm going to do my own comparisons, but I'm looking forward to your comparisons, Lunatique to see how they match up.


----------



## silverlight

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I listened to both at the LA meet, and to my ears, it was no contest, O2Mk1's hands down.
> Te LCD2's sounded a little bloated in the mid bass, not as clear as the O2's. Granted, it was at a meet, but I already unsubscribed to the LCD2 thread.


 

 I agree.  I purchased a pair of LCD2's, and while I returned them b/c they were physically uncomfortable on my head (weight, pinch), I hands down prefer my O2Mk1's and to my ears it was a clear difference (ease, detail, separation, better perceived integration top to bottom, LCD2 sounded a little compressed/nasally in comparison).  Driving them with different amplifiers (WES Maxxed vs RWA Isabella w/ v good Amperex tubes) so this could be part of it and also LCD2's not fully broken in.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I listened to both at the LA meet, and to my ears, it was no contest, O2Mk1's hands down.
> Te LCD2's sounded a little bloated in the mid bass, not as clear as the O2's. Granted, it was at a meet, but I already unsubscribed to the LCD2 thread.


 
   
  I agree that the O2mk1 is the better headphone now that I've actually heard it amped properly. I still enjoy the sound of the LCD-2, although I haven't worn them much since discovering the cracked parts on mine. I'm awaiting replacement "L" and "R" blocks in the mail.
   
  Oh, and I unsubscribed to the LCD-2 thread ages ago, though for reasons other than whether I like the LCD-2 or not.


----------



## n3rdling

Nice to see the LCD2 hype train slowing down.  I like the headphone a lot for the price, but the O2 (and Omega) is still my favorite.  I posted some impressions on the LCD2 in comparison to the O2 here:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/453116/audeze-lcd-2-orthos/4695#post_6925782


----------



## Lunatique

I think what I have to say about the LCD-2 vs. the O2 might surprise some people in some ways, as both headphones have pros and cons depending on the material. This is surprising even to me because when I tested the 007mk2 against the D7000 months ago, the Stax destroyed the Denon, but against the LCD-2, there are just as many similarities as there are differences.
  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Interesting to see the contrast in equipment!
> The Stax setup and a set of K+H 300 on one hand and a Samson C-control on the other


 

 Yeah, I'm not a gear snob at all. I give all gear the benefit of the doubt and test them myself instead of only listening to people's biased opinions. If cheap gear performs with flying colors and I couldn't detect any unacceptable problems with coloration, distortion, workmanship, reliability...etc, then it stays in the studio and lives happily along with my higher-end gears. I think blind bias against budget gear is kind of stupid--you really need to test them for yourself. Also, with budget gear, sometimes what people bitch about is the quality control of the products, and part of the bad reputation comes from people getting a lemon. But when you don't get a lemon, many budget gear sound absolutely fine--in fact I think many people won't be able to tell many of the budget gear from the higher-end ones in double blind tests. This has been proven many times at gearslutz.com already. I bet if head-fi were to hold a big double blind testing session of various head-fi related gears, we'd see similar results.


----------



## frenshprince

When do you think we'll have the pleasure to read your review ?


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





frenshprince said:


> When do you think we'll have the pleasure to read your review ?


 
   
  Probably today or tomorrow, I hope.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Anyone have an information about the Omega 3s and their Bass Response?


----------



## Currawong

The only info we have about the Omega 3s is that picture from Fujiya.  Other than that, we know nothing whatsoever.
   
  Lunatique: I look forward to your impressions about the O2 vs. LCD-2s. So far, it's a toss-up for me between the O2/717 and the LCD-2/Phoenix. Sometimes the O2s sound like a breath of fresh air, and sometimes the punch of the LCD-2s is what I'm in the mood for.


----------



## Gu Sensei

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The only info we have about the Omega 3s is that picture from Fujiya.  Other than that, we know nothing whatsoever.


 
   
  Gotta keep an eye on Sasaki's blog for the latest scoop:
   
   
  Quote: 





			
				Sasaki said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Speaking of the highlight of the show, as you may already know new STAX flagship (O3?) could be there. Here is a picture of the coming new STAX flagship on Fujiya blog. It will be out around the next Spring and would be priced almost $3000 - $5000.
> http://www.fujiya-avic.co.jp/d-style/1010_headphone_fes.html


----------



## MuppetFace

$3000-$5000?
   
  I think I'm going to throw up a little bit.


----------



## Uncle Erik

Ouch, $3k-$5k is pretty stiff.

 If it is towards the lower end of that - and sounds good - I might unload the O2 Mk1 and a few other toys, and bite.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Yeah, I could justify the 3k range possibly...but 5k would be very very hard to justify in my book 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  That nears R10 territory, and we know how many people can actually afford a pair of those...


----------



## Mr.Sneis

and I'll probably still be here waiting to pick up a pair of o2mk1's


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> and I'll probably still be here waiting to pick up a pair of o2mk1's


 

 Given the price and desirability of the O3, I think you'll be seeing at least a few O2s popping up soon.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Given the price and desirability of the O3, I think you'll be seeing at least a few O2s popping up soon.


 


 Huh?  We know nothing about the price, performance, availability or even whether there really is an "03" at this point.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Huh?  We know nothing about the price, performance, availability or even whether there really is an "03" at this point.


 

 It's a new flagship. Whether it's called the "O3" or not makes no difference. I trust spritzer and n3rdling when they say the drivers are new and that it will likely cost more than the O2. If you don't want to believe it, then don't.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> $3000-$5000?
> 
> I think I'm going to throw up a little bit.


 

 $3000 is only a $600 jump from the O2 Mk2, that's really not that much. $5000 on the other hand, yeah. That's a lot.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> $3000 is only a $600 jump from the O2 Mk2, that's really not that much. $5000 on the other hand, yeah. That's a lot.


 

 The 007a is only $2000.
   
  Heh, listen to me. "Only" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I've been hanging around head-fi too much.


----------



## DaveBSC

Depends where you buy it. I'm not sure exactly what the "official" US dealer price is (or if there is one), but Elusive Disc charges $2400. They are $2150 from Woo.


----------



## gilency

I heard he is an authorized dealer. but not sure about that.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I heard he is an authorized dealer. but not sure about that.


 
   
  Yes Woo Audio is an authorised Stax dealer.
  



   
  from: http://wooaudio.com/products/headphones/stax/sr007mk2.html


----------



## Lunatique

The real acid test is when people start posting objective, honest comparison tests between the new flagship and the O2 mk1 and mk2. It could very well be the kind of thing where many don't prefer the newer model for whatever reasons. It happened with the HD600/HD650, as well as the O2 mk1/mk2.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> The real acid test is when people start posting objective, honest comparison tests between the new flagship and the O2 mk1 and mk2. It could very well be the kind of thing where many don't prefer the newer model for whatever reasons. It happened with the HD600/HD650, as well as the O2 mk1/mk2.


 

 Everything in audio's subjective. Unless they're a huge improvement, however I determine that, I think I'll just stick with the SR-007 mk1 and spend my money on something else.


----------



## n3rdling

The way I look at the price is this:
  It's just a grand or two more than the Ultrasone flagship. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  At least that's the way I'm prepping myself to justify whatever price it may be when it is released.


----------



## gilency

Thank you for pointing that out.
  Oh.....they look sooooooOOO tempting!
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Yes Woo Audio is an authorised Stax dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Thank you for pointing that out.
> Oh.....they look sooooooOOO tempting!


 
   
  Yeah, the all black SR-007s actually look quite nice.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> It's a new flagship. Whether it's called the "O3" or not makes no difference. I trust spritzer and n3rdling when they say the drivers are new and that it will likely cost more than the O2. If you don't want to believe it, then don't.


 


 I can't stop people jumping to conclusions.  No-one as far as I am aware on this site has anything more to go on than one photo. This speculation is an orgy of audiophile masturbation.
  
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> The real acid test is when people start posting objective, honest comparison tests between the new flagship and the O2 mk1 and mk2. It could very well be the kind of thing where many don't prefer the newer model for whatever reasons. It happened with the HD600/HD650, as well as the O2 mk1/mk2.


 


 Exactly!


----------



## Amarphael

So can anyone share their wisdom with me here with replacing the bad transfo? What are the specs needed, KGSS BOM, anything...? I'd like to get a quote from SumR maybe.

  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> No hope for the current transformer i inderstand, As it'll become to crowded with two of them... So where do i get a new one?


----------



## spritzer

The MSRP of a SR-007A is 192kYen in Japan so the new one should be quite a bit more expensive then that.  The Yen is way to strong these days so if it drops back to 100Y/1$ then the new set won't be that expensive.  It certainly won't be horrendously overpriced crap like all the Ultrasones I've heard... 
  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> So can anyone share their wisdom with me here with replacing the bad transfo? What are the specs needed, KGSS BOM, anything...? I'd like to get a quote from SumR maybe.


 

 The SumR unit in my KGSS is 2*0-280V/140mA, 1*36VCT/240mA.  Split primaries and a core band. 
   
  As for the question above about Plitron, they are just hyped up.  They can't even build transformers to spec reliably so I'd personally use SumR.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I can't stop people jumping to conclusions.  No-one as far as I am aware on this site has anything more to go on than one photo. This speculation is an orgy of audiophile masturbation.


 
   
   
  It's clearly an Omega with a new chassis and arc assembly. Looking at the photo, you can't really dispute that. You also can't dispute that Stax is revamping their line-up. The SR-507, 407 and 307 are featuring new drivers. Why oh why would Stax NOT have new drivers for this new Omega?
   
  Assuming that Stax is just putting out yet another different looking O2mk2 is honestly more of a ridiculous assumption to make than anything being posted about an "O3".


----------



## Amarphael

Does this mean that it can be changed to NA voltage? And what's the weight of this thing?
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Split primaries and a core band.


----------



## MuppetFace

*spritzer*,
   
  Is there much of a difference in sound between the Airbow SC-1 and the SR-404LE?
   
  Thanks for any info.


----------



## donthuang

http://www.youtube.com/user/FUJIYAllAVIC#p/u/12/wKTuBjI4Cp4
   
  New stators seems amazing....


----------



## MuppetFace

Awesome! What a great video.
   

 Those look pretty real to me. Not to engage in an "orgy of audiophile masturbation" or anything.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *MuppetFace*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Everybody get in a circle...


----------



## ujamerstand

Asked my japanese friend to translate some of it. So the code name for this thing is c32, but no official name yet. And yeah, this thing is about 300,000 to 500,000 yen because of the specialized plates on the stators.
   
  He also said this thing was developed for 50th anniversary of stax, its handcrafted besides the etched plates.


----------



## les_garten

That's a depressing bunch of numbers!
  
  Quote: 





ujamerstand said:


> Asked my japanese friend to translate some of it. So the code name for this thing is c32, but no official name yet. And yeah, this thing is about 300,000 to 500,000 yen because of the specialized plates on the stators.
> 
> He also said this thing was developed for 50th anniversary of stax, its handcrafted besides the etched plates.


----------



## IPodPJ

Wow, that looks really nice.  It's also quite BIG.  Can't wait to hear these bad boys.


----------



## ujamerstand

No kidding. Starting at $3686.
  
  Quote: 





les_garten said:


> That's a depressing bunch of numbers!


----------



## spritzer

As usual Ed doesn't have a clue what he's talking about.  You might actually stop and think for a while that perhaps there have been prototypes floating around out there or that we know the people at Stax? 
  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Does this mean that it can be changed to NA voltage? And what's the weight of this thing?


 

 If you have dual 117V primaries then they are connected in parallel for 117V operation but series connected for 230V.  If you are ever going to sell the amp then this makes the most sense imo. 

  
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> *spritzer*,
> 
> Is there much of a difference in sound between the Airbow SC-1 and the SR-404LE?
> 
> Thanks for any info.


 

 Too much time went between hearing those two but from memory they are pretty similar over all.


----------



## n3rdling

They look great but that arc assembly looks downright enormous.  Anybody have any more info on what he's saying in the video?  Hope it's closer to 300k Yen.


----------



## chi2

I've bought an SR Gamma Pro in pretty good state - with the exception of the headband. I have a spare band from a Lambda 202 that I would like to mount instead. The problem is that the sliders on the arc of the Gamma have no (visible) screws and I see no way to remove the band. Searching the web didn't provide the information needed. Does anyone here happen to know the key to this construction? Your input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
   
  BTW the Gamma Pro is an impressive little beast. Though somewhat limited in extension on both ends of the spectrum it is nicely detailed and very balanced - more so than the several (Pro Bias) Lambdas I own. And I prefer its soundstage to that of the (low bias) SR-X MK III. Though some folks think very highly of the SR-X Pros I have no intention to transplant the drivers into the SR-X as I'd fear the loss of space and air.


----------



## spritzer

There is no way I can see to use a SR-202 arc on the Gamma.  If you want to try you remove the earcup holders by removing the small stop screw visible inside the arc and pulling them out.  Then the headpad holders just slide off the arc. 
  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> They look great but that arc assembly looks downright enormous.  Anybody have any more info on what he's saying in the video?  Hope it's closer to 300k Yen.


 

 It uses the same unit as the 507 and it is indeed enormous.  The arc also extends quite a bit over the head making them look quite odd...


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is no way I can see to use a SR-202 arc on the Gamma.  If you want to try you remove the earcup holders by removing the small stop screw visible inside the arc and pulling them out.  Then the headpad holders just slide off the arc.


 
   
   
  Thanks for the suggestion. However, even with the earcup holders pulled off the plastic sliders don't slide off the arc as the double furrows in the arc don't lead to its very end.
   
  BTW, I only intend to use the pleather band of the 202, not the sliders. In order to exchange the bands I need to disasemble the two sliders of the Gamma Pro.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. However, even with the earcup holders pulled off the plastic sliders don't slide off the arc as the double forrows in the arc don't lead to its very end.
> 
> BTW, I only intend to use the pleather band of the 202, not the sliders. In order to exchange the bands I need to disasemble the two sliders of the Gamma Pro.


 

 I just did this a few days ago. Look for the two screws on the plastic sliders that hold the leatherette. Unscrew them, and the leatherette should slide out. However those screws gave me quite a fight.


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I just did this a few days ago. Look for the two screws on the plastic sliders that hold the leatherette. Unscrew them, and the leatherette should slide out. However those screws gave me quite a fight.


 
   
  Did you do that on a Gamma? The sliders of the Lambdas and Sigmas have such screws, those of the - or at least my - Gamma don't.


----------



## MuppetFace

Sorry, I haven't taken apart a Gamma. I was referring only to extracting a leatherette from the Lambda and Sigma.
   
  There should be _some_ way the engineers fit the leatherette on the arc assembly of the Gamma, and so in theory a way of just removing / adding the leatherette. Though it could very well a whole different system for mounting inside the sliders, in which case you'd be out of luck.


----------



## chi2

Thanks for the clarification, MuppetFace.
   
  By applying some limited force on the right spot I managed to pull the sliders off the arc. There turned out to be a small sled with two tappets inside of the slider that gets pressed to the two-furrowed arc by a spring. The punched hole in the leatherette band fits the tube where the small spring sits in. Now it should be no problem to exchange the bands - which are very similar indeed. Will do that tomorrow.
   
  Thanks for the help, Birgir and MuppetFace!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> As usual Ed doesn't have a clue what he's talking about.  You might actually stop and think for a while that perhaps there have been prototypes floating around out there or that we know the people at Stax?


 
   
  I am curious that you say you knew about this prototype some time back.  I would have been interested to read about this and your contacts with Stax personnel.  Did I miss your earlier posting about these matters?
   
  Since it doesn't appear that, as of  this date,  anyone other than in the Stax organization has had one of these phones in their hands,  speculation about their performance is just that, speculation, and  no-one else, including the other Senor Stax, knows what they are talking about here.   Comments                         
   
  I can accept anyone's personal observations about audio equipment  they have actually heard.   But so far I haven't heard even seen a second or  third hand report about what these phones sound like.
   
    I feel uncomfortable entering  a fantasy land where people start drawing conclusions about equipment which they have not heard.  There is a line between reasonable speculation and audiophile hysteria.
   
  .


----------



## n3rdling

Who made comments on what they sound like?  I think the debate was started when you said you weren't convinced that these didn't use the O2 drivers (in that case I'm not convinced that isn't an O2 arc assembly 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) and everybody else with eyes said you were wrong.  Now that we've seen video of the headphones with plenty of footage of the driver, are you willing to concede this point or are you still waiting to have one in your hands?
   
  As a side note, is that the President of Stax in the video?  His voice is really soothing


----------



## svyr

He's hypnotising you into spending 3k down the track 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> His voice is really soothing


 


*Birgir, any impressions of 507 vs 404 (If I recall correctly you do have a 404?)*


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Who made comments on what they sound like?  I think the debate was started when you said you weren't convinced that these didn't use the O2 drivers (in that case I'm not convinced that isn't an O2 arc assembly
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  

  
  Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Anyone have an information about the Omega 3s and their Bass Response?


 


  Actually I don't need this one in my hands, I need the production model.   I am not sure what your point is about the arc assembly but it looks like a 507 part to me. 
   
   I am not the only person here who has commented on the flurry of speculation about these phones.  

  
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> The only info we have about the Omega 3s is that picture from Fujiya.  Other than that, we know nothing whatsoever.
> 
> Lunatique: I look forward to your impressions about the O2 vs. LCD-2s. So far, it's a toss-up for me between the O2/717 and the LCD-2/Phoenix. Sometimes the O2s sound like a breath of fresh air, and sometimes the punch of the LCD-2s is what I'm in the mood for.


 




  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> The real acid test is when people start posting objective, honest comparison tests between the new flagship and the O2 mk1 and mk2. It could very well be the kind of thing where many don't prefer the newer model for whatever reasons. It happened with the HD600/HD650, as well as the O2 mk1/mk2.


 


 Now we have an video, unfortunately not translated. It does appear to show a different driver than the O2.  I don't know enough about the original Omega to know if it's driver is similar to the one in the video or not. But if Stax is now going back to an earlier design I would wonder about  their engineers, going around in circles on driver design. 
   
  Still all I care about is good sound which we can judge when and if these make it into production.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Now we have an video, unfortunately not translated. It does appear to show a different driver than the O2.  I don't know enough about the original Omega to know if it's driver is similar to the one in the video or not. But if Stax is now going back to an earlier design I would wonder about  their engineers, going around in circles on driver design.
> 
> Still all I care about is good sound which we can judge when and if these make it into production.


 

 The only one talking about how these sound in this debate has been you. We've been talking about the drivers making this a different flagship. You don't need to have the finished production model in your hands to determine the drivers are different, and that the headphones are therefore different.
   
  And... did I just read that right about you accusing Stax of going back and reusing the original Omega drivers? That's probably THE most ridiculous speculation that's been posted yet.


----------



## Lunatique

My comprehensive review of the 007mk2 and comparisons with the LCD-2 (along with the HD650 and M50) is now up here:
  http://www.ethereality.info/ethereality_website/about_me/wordpress/?p=1042
   
  and here:
  http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-007-mk2/reviews


----------



## MuppetFace

Thank you for your comprehensive review Lunatique. It's obvious you put a lot of effort and consideration into writing it, and I'm sure folks around here (myself included) will appreciate it.


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I feel uncomfortable entering  a fantasy land where people start drawing conclusions about equipment which they have not heard.  There is a line between reasonable speculation and audiophile hysteria.


 

 I respect your opinion. There is no reason to hype new products without hearing them.
   
  But I would not call it "fantasy land" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. 
   
  I would call it "thought experiment".
   
  Similar to Schrödingers's cat or Schrödinger's cat:
   
  Quote: 





> A *thought experiment* (sometimes the German equivalent, *Gedankenexperiment*, is used) is a mental exercise which would consider a hypothesis, theory,[1] or principle.
> 
> Given the structure of the experiment, it may or may not be possible to actually perform it, and, in the case that it is possible for it to be performed, no intention of any kind to actually perform the experiment in question may exist. The common goal of a thought experiment is to explore the potential consequences of the principle in question.
> 
> Famous examples of thought experiments include Schrödinger's cat, illustrating quantum indeterminacy through the manipulation of a perfectly sealed environment and a tiny bit of radioactive substance, and Maxwell's demon, in which a supernatural being is instructed to attempt to violate the second law of thermodynamics.


 
   
  See also The best thought experiments. 
   
  If you do not have the real equipment to do the experiment, try to simulate things on your mind. It is the most powerful computer. 
   
  Quote: 





> "_I believe in intuitions and inspirations. I sometimes feel that I am right. I do not know if I am._"
> 
> - G.S. Viereck interview, October 26, 1929, reprinted in "Glimpses of the Great" (1930).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Not saying that I am or everyone is capable of doing a "correct simulation", of course.
   
  In fact, it is said that Schrodinger was right and Einstein eventually made up his mind toward uncertainty in quantum mechanics. A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new...
   
  But I/we have fun trying those intuitions with audio gear... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  It should be correct with the right theories and parameters, otherwise we should throw spice on trash. Or supercomputers to predict a natural phenomenon such as weather. 
   
  Just one more link on this vast topic: Simulation, Consciousness, Existence - Hans Moravec, 1998. "Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one" (from Collected Quotes from Albert Einstein).
   
  Remember, you are used to have your own "thought experiments" (gotcha! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




): 
   
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I find that various IEM's and some earbuds have some, but not all of the clarity I find with stats. I suspect it is because  they are light so there is less overhang and they  have less intermodulation distortion because their diaphragms do not have to move as much as a conventional dynamic driver.  In that respect they are like stats which don't move as much as dynamics because they are generally very much larger in surface area than dynamics.
> 
> The larger dynamics often have their virtues but even phones such as the the HD800 have a basic raspy sound that I find hard to accept after stats.





   
  Off topic, two more quotes from Einstein (can't resist writing it):
   
  Quote: 





> "_A scientist is a mimosa when he himself has made a mistake, and a roaring lion when he discovers a mistake of others_."
> 
> - quote from Ehlers, Liebes Hertz!, 45.
> 
> ...


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> My comprehensive review of the 007mk2 and comparisons with the LCD-2 (along with the HD650 and M50) is now up here:
> http://www.ethereality.info/ethereality_website/about_me/wordpress/?p=1042
> 
> and here:
> http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-007-mk2/reviews


 

 Excellent review, Lunatique.  For its length, it was an excellent read and I could relate to it easily.  I particularly liked the comparison to Headphone Musume as I had a similar reaction to the illustration.
   
  It's made me quite excited to test out my friend's LCD-2 when it arrives as well.
   
  I wonder about how the review would have changed if you had a BH.  I did a comparison between Kerry's BHKE and his KGTT and the BH was notably better.  I won't say the BH blows it out of the water, but after hearing the BH I suddenly developed a deep-seated desire to own a BH by hook or by crook and have jumped into DIY--every project merely being training till I can put together a BH of my own.  The Eagles and Pink Floyd will never be the same to me again.  The brightness of the upper midrange you mentioned when comparing the M50, the bite, was present to me when hearing it out of the BH.  I know you're not looking at bigger and better amps and I surely don't want to do the infamous hyping from the boards, but if the opportunity arises... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I completely agree about not using the O2 for critical audio work as I find them too forgiving for that.  To me, almost everything sounds great out of the O2.
   
  I also fear for the new Stax C32/O3.  At least your wife seems forgiving, my better half is going to kill me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Once again just want to say it was a pleasure to read your review and I hope you don't just stop there with what you have now.


----------



## spritzer

Nice review but you should really hear a better amp.  When we talk about better amps it is really the case of the amp holding back the transducers.  The effects are far from subtle if you are familiar with the drivers and how they sound.  There is also the fact that the 717 is far from neutral and though it is a good amp for the price, its cousin the KGSS is quite a bit better since it is more neutral. 
  Quote: 





svyr said:


>





> *Birgir, any impressions of 507 vs 404 (If I recall correctly you do have a 404?)*


 

 None yet but my SR-404 is unlike the two dozen or so sets I've owned.  As a matter of fact they are the only set which doesn't sound horrible so a comparison is basically worthless.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nice review but you should really hear a better amp.  When we talk about better amps it is really the case of the amp holding back the transducers.  The effects are far from subtle if you are familiar with the drivers and how they sound.  There is also the fact that the 717 is far from neutral and though it is a good amp for the price, its cousin the KGSS is quite a bit better since it is more neutral.


 
  I'm worried that the KGSS will end up being a bit too polite for me, since I actually do like the slightly emphasized punchiness of the upper to mid bass I'm hearing with the 717. If the KGSS smooths that out, it would make the 007mk2 less engaging to me, and I'm already finding it a bit polite with some musical material. But if that somewhat etched treble could get smoothed out a bit, then that would be a welcome improvement, but the problem is, it's almost seems like a situation where I can't have my cake and eat it too, since I will gain one but lose the other. Also, would the KGSS restore some of the bite back into the mids?


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> 
> None yet but my SR-404 is unlike the two dozen or so sets I've owned.  As a matter of fact they are the only set which doesn't sound horrible so a comparison is basically worthless.


 
   
   
  Heh!  Perhaps yours are defective?


----------



## gilency

Lunatique: wonderful review of the Mk2's. Thank you.
  I clearly preferred the Mk1's/BH over the LCD2/WA5 in my limited meet listening.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I'm worried that the KGSS will end up being a bit too polite for me, since I actually do like the slightly emphasized punchiness of the upper to mid bass I'm hearing with the 717. If the KGSS smooths that out, it would make the 007mk2 less engaging to me, and I'm already finding it a bit polite with some musical material. But if that somewhat etched treble could get smoothed out a bit, then that would be a welcome improvement, but the problem is, it's almost seems like a situation where I can't have my cake and eat it too, since I will gain one but lose the other. Also, would the KGSS restore some of the bite back into the mids?


 

 The KGSS will give you more attack given that it has more power on tap.  Your best bet would be to cozy up to Elephas and if you are ever in Taiwan pay a visit to him.  The BHSE is rather similar to the KGSS in many ways and you will be able to compare the Mk1 to the Mk2 plus the 200 other headphones he has...
  
  Quote: 





les_garten said:


> Heh!  Perhaps yours are defective?


 

 Nahh, I think they were either fitted with the SR-SC1 drivers by mistake or they are SR-SC1's and somebody removed the sticker on the plug.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





> Nahh, I think they were either fitted with the SR-SC1 drivers by mistake or they are SR-SC1's and somebody removed the sticker on the plug.


 
   
   
   
  Lucky Dawg!


----------



## spritzer

Even more so if you knew how much I paid for them...


----------



## n3rdling

You can also try the spring/blutak mods for the mk2, Lunatique.  If the mk2 really does have an etch I don't think I'll like it...need to hear one again.


----------



## spritzer

AFAIK all the Mk2's are now fitted with blocked ports (thanks for listening Stax) but the spring mod could still be needed.  That would certainly explain the midrange issues...


----------



## Anders

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> None yet but my SR-404 is unlike the two dozen or so sets I've owned.  As a matter of fact they are the only set which doesn't sound horrible so a comparison is basically worthless.


 

  
  My SR-404 doesn't sound horrible either, probably also lucky to have got a defective one!


----------



## n3rdling

Ok got done reading the review.  Too lengthy for my tastes (especially since you just got the thing), but an enjoyable read.  
  One comment: read up on the headroom/sterophile/etc articles on headphone measurements and what a headphone FR should look like in order to sound flat to our ears.  It's not the same as speakers due to proximity.  I think you'll find that the O2/LCD2 are almost the ideal.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Ok got done reading the review.  Too lengthy for my tastes (especially since you just got the thing), but an enjoyable read.
> One comment: read up on the headroom/sterophile/etc articles on headphone measurements and what a headphone FR should look like in order to sound flat to our ears.  It's not the same as speakers due to proximity.  I think you'll find that the O2/LCD2 are almost the ideal.


 

 Yep, a very long review... I'll have to leave it for another time (considering I'm at work  )


----------



## ak622

The new Omega's definitely look impressive and a lot of care has been put into it.  Is there a timeline on when this is going to be released?  Any mention of any new amps that will be released in tandem for them?  Given that the 007t is to match the O2s, there should be something "higher up" that will be paired with this baby.


----------



## DavidMahler

Are the new Stax named Omega 3?  If so, are they made of fatty acids from fish?


----------



## wink

Jjinh posted:-
   
   
  Quote: 





> I'll have to leave it for another time (considering I'm at work  )


 
   Naugty, naughty..........
   
  So much for the education of aussie kids.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





davidmahler said:


> Are the new Stax named Omega 3?  If so, are they made of fatty acids from fish?


 


  No official name yet.  Codename is c32


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The KGSS will give you more attack given that it has more power on tap.  Your best bet would be to cozy up to Elephas and if you are ever in Taiwan pay a visit to him.  The BHSE is rather similar to the KGSS in many ways and you will be able to compare the Mk1 to the Mk2 plus the 200 other headphones he has...


 

 Thanks for the tip! I didn't know we had a member here from Taiwan--if I had known I'd have tried to visit him that last time I was there.
  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You can also try the spring/blutak mods for the mk2, Lunatique.  If the mk2 really does have an etch I don't think I'll like it...need to hear one again.


 

 I'll look into it, but what exactly does the mod change about the mk2?
  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Ok got done reading the review.  Too lengthy for my tastes (especially since you just got the thing), but an enjoyable read.
> One comment: read up on the headroom/sterophile/etc articles on headphone measurements and what a headphone FR should look like in order to sound flat to our ears.  It's not the same as speakers due to proximity.  I think you'll find that the O2/LCD2 are almost the ideal.


 

 I actually used to practically live on the HeadRoom site when I was learning about headphones, so I know all about the measurement details. The mid-range issues with the O2mk2 and LCD-2 in the 2KHz~3KHz range is definitely there and it's very obvious when you listen to any musical material with biting distorted guitars or brass section, or even just bombastic orchestral passages with lots of attack in the mid-range. Compare the O2mk2 and LCD-2 to any other headphones or speakers (regardless if they're low-end or high-end) and you'll hear it clearly. The mid-range on my Klein + Hummel O 300D's are legendary, and with extensive acoustic treatment as well as the ARC System working in conjunction, I'm very confident it is a rock-solid reliable reference for mid-range. The mid-range on the HD650 is also pretty trustworthy IMO, and while my other headphones and speakers may not be as trustworthy, they all render the mid-range with more bite than the O2mk2 and the LCD-2, and this is without exception, which forces me to the conclusion I have drawn.
   
  As for needing to live with a piece of gear for a long time before being able to proper assess its quality, I think it really depends on your lifestyle, profession, and passion in life. I'm a bit unique in that I can spend all my waking hours testing audio gear if I choose to, because I'm semi-retired even though I'm only 37. Most people who buy new headphones or speakers get how many hours to test them a day? A couple hours here and there, and then maybe a few more hours on the weekends? I can do more extensive testing in one day than most people could in two weeks--literally 16 hours a day with breaks in-between to reset my ears. That means if I had a piece of gear for a week, it would equal most people having it for 3 months or so because of how much time I put into extensive and detailed testing.
   
  Also, because I'm a composer and sound designer, I have studied and practiced mixing and mastering for years, and have done lots of critical listening exercises such as the grueling ones from audio professional training programs, where you are supposed to make instant judgment about audio comparisons or hear anomalies, distortions, identify narrow bands of frequency, wide bands of frequency, very subtle 1dB amplitude changes, masking, time-domain issues, comb-filtering, pinpointing sound placement, critical EQ decisions, the effects of compression, limiting, delays, reverb, phasing...etc. I also used to spend many weekends traveling to various pro audio stores to do reference studio monitor and headphone comparison tests, and I'd spend entire weekends doing just that. The range of tracks I use to test audio gear has evolved over many years and is now very precisely chosen to test very specific issues--from frequency response, attack, decay, distortion, to various musical styles that require faithful rendering in order to sound "right" and satisfying, and included are also log sweeps, frequency interval tests, pink noise, and so on for purely technical tests. So in other words, I don't frak around with this stuff--I put my heart and soul into it because music is my number one passion in life. It is my soul's sanctuary, so anything related I take very seriously and am very meticulous about. Sure, I'm no Bob Katz or Bob Clearmountain, but I do try very hard within my means to do my very best.


----------



## sachu

Lunatique, apologies if this has been asked and answered earlier, but what amp were you running the LCD-2 off of?


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Lunatique, apologies if this has been asked and answered earlier, but what amp were you running the LCD-2 off of?


 
   
  Just standard pro audio gear--cheap ones too. I explained why in this post:
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/14265#post_7008283
   
  I've auditioned expensive ones like the Phonitor and Symphony.2, and I didn't think they were worth the money for such subtle additional refinement. It was just a vague impression of refinement but nothing even remotely close to being worth over a grand.


----------



## Currawong

Lunatique: Thanks for the review.  Even though it makes a review long, it's good to have some idea of the reviewer's background and thinking as a pretext for their opinions.  I'm not far from Taiwan either, so maybe we should see if we can't twist Elephas' arm and have a mini-meet there sometime next year.


----------



## svyr

how strange, i like mine more than sr-202 and all my dynamic headphones...
   
  A rather mean generalization coming from you, Birgir 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. It would be a lot more suitable for someone of your status to list the presumed number of models out there and how many you heard and possibly any identifying markings or sn series 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




? (mine are ss1-185x)
   
   
  >My SR-404 doesn't sound horrible either, probably also lucky to have got a defective one!
   
  sn w/o the last digit?
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> None yet but my SR-404 is unlike the two dozen or so sets I've owned.  As a matter of fact they are the only set which doesn't sound horrible so a comparison is basically worthless.


----------



## Beefy

While I have no personal experience with either amp (bad form I know, but what ya gonna do? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), my reading would suggest that you can do better than the Phonitor and Symphony for that kind of money.
  
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> Just standard pro audio gear--cheap ones too. I explained why in this post:
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/14265#post_7008283
> 
> I've auditioned expensive ones like the Phonitor and Symphony.2, and I didn't think they were worth the money for such subtle additional refinement. It was just a vague impression of refinement but nothing even remotely close to being worth over a grand.


----------



## soundoholic

@lunatique: Very interesting review and I agree mostly with. As I just wrote, my impressions with O2 are not positive - in relation to 404LE my O2 has big midrange issues. The good classical cds sound strange; on contrary pop and electronic jazz are just acceptable. BUT: If you don´t know/remeber the true natural sound color of cello, grand piano, violin or sax - you will accept all with O2. One must not agree with me: Even gold BHSE in best exclusive version cannot surely change these O2 facts. LOL.
  Well, however I think the old Omega I is another pair of shoes.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





beefy said:


> While I have no personal experience with either amp (bad form I know, but what ya gonna do?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 My problem with that kind of thinking is this: What are you really paying for if you are after amps that significantly change the sonic signature of headphones? Are you paying for an expensive EQ unit? Why should an amp change the sonic signature of headphones to that degree? It's just an amp, not an EQ unit. And if all other amps, consumer, or pro audio gear all have the same sound and do not color the headphones to the point of sounding like a different headphone, then logic tells me that any "boutique" headphone that is actually changing the sound of the headphones so much is actually doing something that should be considered an anomaly. That is not normal. And just how much should an amp "improve" the sound of a headphone?
   
  The thing is, something like the Phonitor was designed to be a professional audio product, and most pro audio products are meant to be neutral and transparent. Many audiophile types don't like that kind of sound, feeling they lack "character." Well, "character" in pro audio world actually means coloration, and if the coloration is significant enough, it is no longer transparent. If one is after coloration on purpose, then I suppose that's a different goal.


----------



## Beefy

Some amps, yes, I would say that they sound 'good' because they impart a sonic signature.
   
  The question is, whether 'neutral' amps _actually succeed_ in being neutral. Only your ears can tell you that. But consider the technical level...... is their damping factor low enough to _really_ grab a diaphragm by the cojones. Is their slew rate _really_ fast enough to catch the transients. Is their current supply capacity sufficient that they can supply the very current hungry phones without dropping out of class A. And really, I don't see that the Phonitor was designed as a neutral product; it was designed to play with the phase, crossfeed etc. so that you can find a speaker-like presentation that suits personal preferences. The Symphony is OPAMP + BUF634; some people like the sound, but on a technical level it doesn't exactly stir my loins.
   
  All I'm saying is that you should probably cast your net a bit wider before you give up on the benefits of amping dynamic phones.
  
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> My problem with that kind of thinking is this: What are you really paying for if you are after amps that significantly change the sonic signature of headphones? Are you paying for an expensive EQ unit? Why should an amp change the sonic signature of headphones to that degree? It's just an amp, not an EQ unit. And if all other amps, consumer, or pro audio gear all have the same sound and do not color the headphones to the point of sounding like a different headphone, then logic tells me that any "boutique" headphone that is actually changing the sound of the headphones so much is actually doing something that should be considered an anomaly. That is not normal. And just how much should an amp "improve" the sound of a headphone?
> 
> The thing is, something like the Phonitor was designed to be a professional audio product, and most pro audio products are meant to be neutral and transparent. Many audiophile types don't like that kind of sound, feeling they lack "character." Well, "character" in pro audio world actually means coloration, and if the coloration is significant enough, it is no longer transparent. If one is after coloration on purpose, then I suppose that's a different goal.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote: 





beefy said:


> All I'm saying is that you should probably cast your net a bit wider before you give up on the benefits of amping dynamic phones.


 

 I would love it if someone told me exactly what amazing amps I need to check out and whether it significantly improves upon the sound of even something like the Phonitor or Symphony.2, and ideally, it does not cost the same as a decent used car. Diminishing returns at this level of the game gets dangerous very fast. When I decided to spend over $3,000 on the Stax rig, I've already gone past my previous threshold for diminishing returns. How much further do I have to travel to see the rainbow at the end? Is it even a path that's worth traveling in the first place? I suppose this is a irrelevant question to those that make $300,000 a year or something, but for the rest of population, it's a really difficult question, even for composers and musicians, since our priority is music-making gears first and foremost--instruments, effects, mic locker, mic pre's, high-end sample libraries...etc.


----------



## Beefy

Well, my bias towards DIY offerings is pretty obvious. You can get some stellar deals on DIYFS if you keep your eyes peeled, and resale value is often excellent. For a lower price than either of those commercial amps, a balanced M3 is an extremely formidable opponent. B22s, Dynalo/mid/hi/mite have been sold for less. The EHHA and other Cavallo audio products get stellar reviews. They might not necessarily be as fashionable amongst the mainstream Head-Fi'ers and professional reviewers...... but people will still be building and enjoying them long after the current FOTM has been supplanted by a new FOTM.
   
  Whether the path is worth it is entirely up to you. Are you here for the journey, or have you already reached your destination? I know that I would be quite sad if I thought the rig I was listening to now was the end of the road, and no new products were worth checking out......
  
  Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I would love it if someone told me exactly what amazing amps I need to check out and whether it significantly improves upon the sound of even something like the Phonitor or Symphony.2, and ideally, it does not cost the same as a decent used car. Diminishing returns at this level of the game gets dangerous very fast. When I decided to spend over $3,000 on the Stax rig, I've already gone past my previous threshold for diminishing returns. How much further do I have to travel to see the rainbow at the end? Is it even a path that's worth traveling in the first place? I suppose this is a irrelevant question to those that make $300,000 a year or something, but for the rest of population, it's a really difficult question, even for composers and musicians, since our priority is music-making gears first and foremost--instruments, effects, mic locker, mic pre's, high-end sample libraries...etc.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





svyr said:


> how strange, i like mine more than sr-202 and all my dynamic headphones...
> 
> A rather mean generalization coming from you, Birgir
> 
> ...


 

 It's all about how clean the midrange is on the Lambdas i.e. how little they mess it up.  A stock Sr-404 has this nasty shouting effect (ditto on the SR-303) which is why they have been largely overlooked for years.  The serial numbers don't matter and besides mine are Japanese (S-2300 or something like that).


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SumR unit in my KGSS is 2*0-280V/140mA, 1*36VCT/240mA.  Split primaries and a core band.


   
  spritzer, I've been given the following info from SumR according to your details:
   

   
  Is this identical to your unit?
   
  Edit: except the lack of split primaries that i forgot to ask that is... argh


----------



## Anders

Quote: 





			
				spritzer said:
			
		

> It's all about how clean the midrange is on the Lambdas i.e. how little they mess it up.  A stock Sr-404 has this nasty shouting effect (ditto on the SR-303) which is why they have been largely overlooked for years.  The serial numbers don't matter and besides mine are Japanese (S-2300 or something like that).


 


  I agree that the upper midrange of the RS-404 is too sharp and not as clean as I would like. But hasn't most headphones in that price range at least one weak point? The 404 sounded quite fun and engaging with BHSE and I have also liked if for directness and slam with the 007t (with tubes that are smooth and dynamic). I would not choose it at as my main headphone but like some aspects of it. A secondary advantage is that it works much better with glasses than O2 and is not as warm (sweaty) as that either. But of course, O2 is more neutral and transparent.
  Maybe the new Stax headphone models will make this discussion redundant, I hope they will solve the main problems.


----------



## Anders

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> My comprehensive review of the 007mk2 and comparisons with the LCD-2 (along with the HD650 and M50) is now up here:
> http://www.ethereality.info/ethereality_website/about_me/wordpress/?p=1042
> 
> and here:
> http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-007-mk2/reviews


 

 Thanks for the review and I hope the experience will not become too disappointing in the long run. I agree basically with your conclusion that there is no perfect headphone and hunting for it is elusive. Bliss is seldom around the corner and a great headphone experience depends on much more than the equipment, as music and the listeners sensitivity and openness. I have had great listening experiences with equipment that is much less than what I have now. That said, I think there is always room for improvement but that is gradual and only worth it as long as it is fun and worth the money (and that is a very subjective evaluation). I think you have caught some of the negative aspects of O2 - it can be improved with a more powerful amp but I don't think it becomes an entirely different headphone even with BHSE (although my evaluation is not finished and progressing very slowly according to my present audio philosophy).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





anders said:


> I agree that the upper midrange of the RS-404 is too sharp and not as clean as I would like. But hasn't most headphones in that price range at least one weak point? The 404 sounded quite fun and engaging with BHSE and I have also liked if for directness and slam with the 007t (with tubes that are smooth and dynamic). I would not choose it at as my main headphone but like some aspects of it. A secondary advantage is that it works much better with glasses than O2 and is not as warm (sweaty) as that either. But of course, O2 is more neutral and transparent.
> Maybe the new Stax headphone models will make this discussion redundant, I hope they will solve the main problems.


 


 I wonder if Stax hasn't been changing the back foam over the years. I bought some a year or so back and thought it seemed thicker than on prior models and when installed it the midrange of my LNS became very harsh sounding.  I took it out again and also removed the backing from my 404 and much preferred the sound of both that way.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> SumR


 

 It is identical to mine except I asked for a slightly smaller core so I could fit it with the PSU in a smaller box.  You don't have that issue.

  
  Quote: 





anders said:


> I agree that the upper midrange of the RS-404 is too sharp and not as clean as I would like. But hasn't most headphones in that price range at least one weak point? The 404 sounded quite fun and engaging with BHSE and I have also liked if for directness and slam with the 007t (with tubes that are smooth and dynamic). I would not choose it at as my main headphone but like some aspects of it. A secondary advantage is that it works much better with glasses than O2 and is not as warm (sweaty) as that either. But of course, O2 is more neutral and transparent.
> Maybe the new Stax headphone models will make this discussion redundant, I hope they will solve the main problems.


 

 I'm not arguing against weak points but rather that the SR-404 introduced a well defined coloration that no Lambda had ever had.  They did get a lot of things right but that one thing utterly kills them for me. 
   
  The 507 doesn't have any of these issues though and besides the general limitations of the Lambda frame it is a very enjoyable transducer.


----------



## Anders

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I'm not arguing against weak points but rather that the SR-404 introduced a well defined coloration that no Lambda had ever had.  They did get a lot of things right but that one thing utterly kills them for me.
> 
> The 507 doesn't have any of these issues though and besides the general limitations of the Lambda frame it is a very enjoyable transducer.


 

  
  That is very good news! Of course I prefer a Lambda without that treble coloration. I have waited for that kind of listening feedback, thanks!


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Gang,
  Dust in the stators: how dangerous that is?
  After a DIY repair of my O2's the plastic cover
  of a left driver doesn't seal it completely,
  so it lets some dust in
  (it is not clamped at +/- holf of the circumreference,
  just hold with a scotch tape)
  I recon this is the dust
  which produces from time to time some silent HF squeal
  How dangerous that is for the drivers?
  Is it worth takieng the risk and decomposing
  the driver completely to clamp the protective foil?
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## soundoholic

@Anders:
  <I agree that the upper midrange of the RS-404 is too sharp and not as clean as I would like...>
  Surely you mean one of the older 404 (in production till midlle 2009). They have this famous etch and not so good coloration at all. For his 404LE and newer 404 Stax made some transducer tunning and the sound signature got a bit different, more pleasant sound towards neutrality but still with very little known problems. I hardly guess it, making many tests with old and new 404.  
   
  Originally Posted by *spritzer* 


  ...The 507 doesn't have any of these issues though and besides the general limitations of the Lambda frame it is a very enjoyable transducer....
   
  I hope so. From what I read here, I guess the 404LE and 404 after 2009 were a intermediate solution.
  My new 507 arrived yesterday and unfortunately I have not heard it yet!


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Noob question please don't spank me, which inputs should I connect the Dac to in the SRM-1, the ones from the left or right ?


----------



## reiserFS

I was recently looking into buying a SR-001 system, but didn't find any retailer so far that sells it, and audiocubes does not list it anymore. Are they still being produced nowadays?


----------



## MuppetFace

I don't think the SR-001 system is still being produced. Incidentally, one came up for sale today on the sales forum, but it seems to already be gone.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I was recently looking into buying a SR-001 system, but didn't find any retailer so far that sells it, and audiocubes does not list it anymore. Are they still being produced nowadays?


 

 Not according to the Stax website
  http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/ExportProducts.html
  "The production was finished."


----------



## jaycalgary

The left channel stopped workin in my Stax system.I thought it was the soundcard but after some investigation it was the Srm1/Mrk2. So I opened it up and found the blue wire that goes to the Left side rca was not soldered on anymore Stax does a great job of soldering everything together but looks like they missed the ball on this wire.The wire had some solder on it but very smooth like it was never really connected at least not. So I managed to solder it back in place like it should be. The unit is built a lot better than it looks. I hope I will finally get a proper balance between left and right channel. After some listening the left channel seems to have full bass and seems to be more then the right channel though.


----------



## reiserFS

Yeah, I've send him a PM and it looks like it's already gone, that sure was fast.
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I don't think the SR-001 system is still being produced. Incidentally, one came up for sale today on the sales forum, but it seems to already be gone.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> The left channel stopped workin in my Stax system.I thought it was the soundcard but after some investigation it was the Srm1/Mrk2. So I opened it up and found the blue wire that goes to the Left side rca was not soldered on anymore Stax does a great job of soldering everything together but looks like they missed the ball on this wire.The wire had some solder on it but very smooth like it was never really connected at least not. So I managed to solder it back in place like it should be. The unit is built a lot better than it looks. I hope I will finally get a proper balance between left and right channel. After some listening the left channel seems to have full bass and seems to be more then the right channel though.


 
  Maybe start again with the ganged volume controls? Mono CD and get the balance centrally between your eyes?


----------



## jgazal

I am not having access to Stax web site. 
   
Maybe updates? 
   
Or they just blocked the access to the IP’s from my country, which does not have a Stax dealer...
   
  edit: it seems it was my provider; no updates.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

I see that after posing some rather healthy questions about BH I became ignored.
  Very sympthomatic...and sad


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> I see that after posing some rather healthy questions about BH I became ignored.
> Very sympthomatic...and sad


 
   
  Hi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  'sympthomatic'???


----------



## 98664c3yijh

symptomatic


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> symptomatic


 
   
  Okay. Isnt symptomatic an adjective. Symptomatic of...???


----------



## 98664c3yijh

...of something possibly wrong going here! I dared to touch the idolatory "holly cow"?


----------



## soundoholic

Hi 98664c3yijh,
  as a noob I don´t belong to the "gang" and have no these competencies but will help you and try myself to explain the case. I think some questions are in that thread just answered and other are too difficult... That´s why... Don´t  disturb about.
  Dust and high humidity are the main destroyer for transducers. If you wrote, you know to have dust in the driver it must be quickly repaired of course. I would suggest: Do not repair yourself, it ´s more complicated with O2 then you can imagine. It is not only that simply to seal a transducer. Anybody knows more?
  Have a good day!
  
  Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Gang,
> Dust in the stators: how dangerous that is?
> After a DIY repair of my O2's the plastic cover
> of a left driver doesn't seal it completely,
> ...


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> AFAIK all the Mk2's are now fitted with blocked ports (thanks for listening Stax) but the spring mod could still be needed.  That would certainly explain the midrange issues...


 
   
  Spritzer, could you please tell me if said blocked port is a part of the cable or a serarate one that could be retrofitted (with the original new part, not blue tack)? And do you happen to know if there's any kind of policy by Stax regarding the first batch of the MK2s being retrofitted with the sealed ports? (Not that I would believe it).
   
  Thanx!


----------



## spacemanspliff

Sigh. I think that my Stax may be causing me neck and shoulder pain. Since I got them, my neck and shoulders have been hurting really bad at times. Since the Nova basics that I have weigh about 2 maybe 3lbs? I think they may be the culprit. I have neck and back issues stemming from getting nailed by a drunk driver years ago. I also recall buying some K1000s from a gentleman who could not wear headphones due to a neck injury. Anyone hear of this happening before?
   
  I am going to be pissed if I have to give these up.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Sigh. I think that my Stax may be causing me neck and shoulder pain. Since I got them, my neck and shoulders have been hurting really bad at times. Since the Nova basics that I have weigh about 2 maybe 3lbs? I think they may be the culprit. I have neck and back issues stemming from getting nailed by a drunk driver years ago. I also recall buying some K1000s from a gentleman who could not wear headphones due to a neck injury. Anyone hear of this happening before?
> 
> I am going to be pissed if I have to give these up.


 

 That's horrible to hear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'd be upset as well if I thought I might have to give up my STAX earspeaker.
   
  Neck pain is something I heard from friends and I myself had neck pains from certain headphones.  Sometimes I found it enough that I would have to lay down for a while to relieve the pain.  But slowly but surely--as uncomfortable as it was--my neck either built up the muscles required or I'm just numb to the pain.  So I hope this is the case for you and you can persevere through this so you can keep them.


----------



## edstrelow

I don't think the Lambdas are quite that heavy, but I will try to remember to weigh a pair tomorrow with the postage scale at my office. However the Stax site lists the 404 at 472 gm or 300 gm, without cable,  That's about 1 lb with cable, 2/3 lb without. My first cans were the Koss ESP6.  Now those were heavy.  They even had transformers built into each earcup.  Actually I found they strenghtened my back and neck and improved my posture.  Admittedly I was not dealing with residual injuries from an auto accident.
   
  I don't know if this will help you, but I do most of my headphone listening lying down using a slender pillow under my head so that the phones are free from and above the  surrounding bed, sofa or whatever and not buried in the pillow.  This might help your neck. Sticking with Stax, the SR003's, are very light.    
   
  EDIT:  My Lambda LNS, cable included, weighed in at exactly 1 lb  on my postal scale.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





			
				spacemanspliff said:
			
		

> Sigh. I think that my Stax may be causing me neck and shoulder pain. Since I got them, my neck and shoulders have been hurting really bad at times.* Since the Nova basics that I have weigh about 2 maybe 3lbs?* I think they may be the culprit. I have neck and back issues stemming from getting nailed by a drunk driver years ago. I also recall buying some K1000s from a gentleman who could not wear headphones due to a neck injury. Anyone hear of this happening before?
> 
> I am going to be pissed if I have to give these up.


 
   
  If I'm right the Nova Basics have a thinner cable akin to SR-202. I weighed my SR-202 with my complementary Aussie Post Office electronic scales. I got 450g = 0.992lbs.
   
  According to their specifications the Stax SR-507s weigh 472g (including attached cable), 295g (without cable)
  http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STXSR507
   
  Accordingly I dont think the Nova Basics would weigh 2-3lbs. Plus when you wear the headphones on your head you dont bare the weight of the cables on your head/neck.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I have a 19" neck and it is almost comically strong due to rehab work. I really couldn't figure out how a titchy headphone would weigh me down so much. It didn't make sense.
   
  So I looked at the entire setup. Then I noticed something. My chair height had been changed. Since this is my pc setup, I usually have my chair at max height so I look slightly down on my monitors. The way it was recently, I looked slightly up. Pretty sure that wasn't helping at all. I think one of my friends must have changed the height without me noticing. Since I changed the height of the chair, I haven't had any pain so far.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Good deal...  Funny how little things with the ergonomics effect your neck so much.  My wife was having a lot of neck pain recently so I swapped out her pillow.  Neck pain is gone and she sleeps soundly at night now. 
   
  I'm blazing a trail for the portable Stax Mafia.  I had a meeting with a local audiologist to discuss my Stax SR-001s.  I want custom molded tips for them so that they will position correctly every time and I won't have to spend 10-20 minutes tweaking their position in my ear for the perfect Baby O sound.  I have the impressions scheduled for next Tuesday morning.  After the impressions, I have to get the drivers in the perfect position, and then the audiologist will take precise measurements so we know where they go in relation to the tips.  We're going to be sending the drivers and my impressions to Starkie in Minneapolis.  They do a ton of the custom IEM and ear pieces for touring musicians, Secret Service, etc.  These tips will fill most of my outer ear area so they will have a large holding surface and they shouldn't move or fall out without the crappy headband, even while on the go.  I won't know the final cost until we get them back, but the budget range was $65-$85 each ear, but that includes the ear impressions.  Once Starkie has the data they need from the 001/003s, they could replicate the mounting for other 001/003s and all you other peeps won't have to send in your drivers, just impressions. 
   
  If I like the custom tips a lot, I'll buy the new SR-003s and have a second set made for those, as well as set for my Denon C-710s.  These tips will not be 100% silicone.  It's a more durable, more rigid material, about 30% silicone with other plastics so it can be easily sanded and polished down to get the perfect fit and insertion depth.  He also said there will be a little more isolation with these tips over the stock tips since more of the ear will be covered, about 5dB maybe as much as 10dB. 
   
  I'll post pics once I have them back in a couple of weeks.


----------



## edstrelow

I have been able to get a spare 003 cable from EIFL in Japan.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Good deal...  Funny how little things with the ergonomics effect your neck so much.  My wife was having a lot of neck pain recently so I swapped out her pillow.  Neck pain is gone and she sleeps soundly at night now.
> 
> I'm blazing a trail for the portable Stax Mafia.  I had a meeting with a local audiologist to discuss my Stax SR-001s.  I want custom molded tips for them so that they will position correctly every time and I won't have to spend 10-20 minutes tweaking their position in my ear for the perfect Baby O sound.  I have the impressions scheduled for next Tuesday morning.  After the impressions, I have to get the drivers in the perfect position, and then the audiologist will take precise measurements so we know where they go in relation to the tips.  We're going to be sending the drivers and my impressions to Starkie in Minneapolis.  They do a ton of the custom IEM and ear pieces for touring musicians, Secret Service, etc.  These tips will fill most of my outer ear area so they will have a large holding surface and they shouldn't move or fall out without the crappy headband, even while on the go.  I won't know the final cost until we get them back, but the budget range was $65-$85 each ear, but that includes the ear impressions.  Once Starkie has the data they need from the 001/003s, they could replicate the mounting for other 001/003s and all you other peeps won't have to send in your drivers, just impressions.
> 
> ...


 
  That is an excellent idea. The fit issue is the main reason I have stayed away from those. Hope it works!


----------



## les_garten

I was looking to do this for my 003s as well, Strong work!
   
  Where would we need to send them in to?
   
  The STAX tips are some type of medieval Torture device!
  
   
  Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> <<SNIP>>
> If I like the custom tips a lot, I'll buy the new SR-003s and have a second set made for those, as well as set for my Denon C-710s.  These tips will not be 100% silicone.  It's a more durable, more rigid material, about 30% silicone with other plastics so it can be easily sanded and polished down to get the perfect fit and insertion depth.  He also said there will be a little more isolation with these tips over the stock tips since more of the ear will be covered, about 5dB maybe as much as 10dB.
> 
> I'll post pics once I have them back in a couple of weeks.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Thanks guys.  I love the sound of them once they are in their sweet spot, but takes so long to fiddle to get them there and those stock tips make my ear canals itch after 45-90 minutes depending on how much I'm moving.  I plan to build my high end portable setup around the 001/003s.  Haven't decided if I'll mod the 001 amp or build a transportable amp for them.  Either way, I plan to pair it with a Music Streamer USB DAC for a simple, transportable setup.  If I keep the 001 amp, then with my Sony A816 it would actually be portable. 
  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I have been able to get a spare 003 cable from EIFL in Japan.


 

 Can you send me a PM with a link or contact email?  Thanks.

  
  Quote: 





les_garten said:


> I was looking to do this for my 003s as well, Strong work!
> 
> Where would we need to send them in to?
> 
> The STAX tips are some type of medieval Torture device!


 

 Find a local ENT specialist or hearing aid audiologist that works with Starkey:
   
  http://www.starkey.com/find-a-professional/internet-sales-policy


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Can you send me a PM with a link or contact email?  Thanks.


 


http://www.eifl.co.jp/index/export/export2.htm


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The only one talking about how these sound in this debate has been you. We've been talking about the drivers making this a different flagship. You don't need to have the finished production model in your hands to determine the drivers are different, and that the headphones are therefore different.
> 
> And... did I just read that right about you accusing Stax of going back and reusing the original Omega drivers? That's probably THE most ridiculous speculation that's been posted yet.


 

 Have you seen the original Omega driver?

 As I said before, no-one knows what they sound like and I have made no statements about their sound.  However we can now see what the drivers of the mystery phone look like.  I had a problem with people making the Omega comparison based on  a single photo.  However the later video shows a driver in some detail  that clearly resembles the original Omega driver which used mesh supported by a cartwheel.  I am certainly not going to dispute when I see a driver taken apart in front of me.  Check these out:
   
  Omega
   
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=SR-%CE%A9
   
  Video
http://www.youtube.com/user/FUJIYAllAVIC#p/u/12/wKTuBjI4Cp4 
   
  These look pretty similar to me.
   
  As I said it is hard to comprehend Stax going back to that design but presumably all will be revealed in due course.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *BoilermakerFan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
   
   
  I really want to see those BayBees when you get them!
   
  On another "Hopeful" note, if only we could get the Spritzer/Gilmore cabal to do a board up for a KGSS-PE
   
  PE= Portable Edition!


----------



## les_garten

One more question:
   
  Are you going to still use the headband with the 003/Customs? 
  
  Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Find a local ENT specialist or hearing aid audiologist that works with Starkey:
> 
> http://www.starkey.com/find-a-professional/internet-sales-policy


----------



## ujamerstand

^^ That I would like to find out as well. How do you plan on wearing the headphones with the custom tips?


----------



## jjinh

Interesting idea BoilermakerFan. I hope you have great success with the customs.
   
  Quote: 





les_garten said:


> One more question:
> 
> Are you going to still use the headband with the 003/Customs?


 
   
  Regarding the headband - I dont know if I'm unusual but I've always found it extraordinarily difficult to get a comfortable and good sounding fit with the headband. Anyway I think the SR-003s are much more convenient without it.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

The custom tips should be more than substantial enough to hold the driver in place _without _the headband.  If you guys remember the Jabra corded cell phone ear pieces that were popular 8-10 years ago before BT, they had a large silicone tips that filled the outer external part of the ear as well as a part going in.  This will be the same idea.  Like an old school hearing aid, but the driver is actually lighter.


----------



## jjinh

How big is the actual diaphragm on the SR-003s? Is it's diameter pretty much the same size as the plastic outer casing of the headphones? If so it seems like it'd be a pretty big custom IEM.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

This will be a custom tip to fit over the unmodified driver. It will replace the little donut and fit all the way to the portion of the driver that normally snaps into the headband where the driver is housed. 

 The stock headband definitely sucks. That's why I'm going with the custom tips, but if I ever decide to sell the setup, it's stock tips are not sacrificed so it would be stock again.


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Have you seen the original Omega driver?
> 
> ...





   
   
  It seems that the original Omega had the cartwheel glued.
   
  Now C32 cartwheel and stator are cooked in a high temperature oven (actually three separate pieces go into the oven to form one stator). Stax says it is a "fixed pole".
   
  From that video it is hard to check if C32 holes within the mesh are smaller (that is my suspicion).
   
  As you say, let's wait to see whether or not it sounds similar to the original Omega.
   
  It seems to be more reliable tough. 
   
   Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> As I said it is hard to comprehend Stax going back to that design but presumably all will be revealed in due course.





   
  I have never heard the original Omega. Was that bad? 
   
  Do you think Omega 2 is better than the original Omega in both perspectives?  I mean: sound fidelity and stator/structure reliability?


----------



## les_garten

Let your friends at Starkey know there will be interest in this, methinks.
  
  Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> This will be a custom tip to fit over the unmodified driver. It will replace the little donut and fit all the way to the portion of the driver that normally snaps into the headband where the driver is housed.
> 
> The stock headband definitely sucks. That's why I'm going with the custom tips, but if I ever decide to sell the setup, it's stock tips are not sacrificed so it would be stock again.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> Let your friends at Starkey know there will be interest in this, methinks.


 


  Yes, they know, that's why they are willing to make my set in the first place.  They will need final adjustments at the audiologist, so anyone interested really needs to find an audiologist who understands the end goal and will see it through.  Third time was the charm for me.  The first two didn't get it and couldn't think outside their small hearing aid box...
   
  I'm just hoping Stax didn't make any changes to the new 003 housing dimensions, at least on the inner horn side.  It doesn't look like they made any changes, so I'm guessing the tweaks were to the driver to warrant the obsolescence of the old version for a new version.


----------



## jjinh

BoilermakerFan: Thanks for the clarification. The SR-003 are lovely headphones, especially considering their price!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





chi2 said:


> Spritzer, could you please tell me if said blocked port is a part of the cable or a serarate one that could be retrofitted (with the original new part, not blue tack)? And do you happen to know if there's any kind of policy by Stax regarding the first batch of the MK2s being retrofitted with the sealed ports? (Not that I would believe it).
> 
> Thanx!


 

 There has been no word from Stax about this change and nobody has mentioned it at all.  I just noticed it at CJ where two different sets had closed ports (no idea how they plug it though) which is very easy to spot. 

  
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> How big is the actual diaphragm on the SR-003s? Is it's diameter pretty much the same size as the plastic outer casing of the headphones? If so it seems like it'd be a pretty big custom IEM.


 

 It's about an inch or so.  It's just slightly smaller than the headphones given how the whole assembly just snaps together.


----------



## arnaud

Already posted there ( http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/520391/tokyo-fall-2010-headphone-festival#post_7025122 ) , pasted here FYI:
   
   
  I went today to the fall headphone festival organized by Fujiya Avic in Tokyo. I only wanted to check out Stax's new prototype and Ultrasone's Edition 10.
   
  First, I have to say I was impressed by the large number of vendors, a LOT of iem makers, Japan / Tokyo is obviously a lucrative market with everybody commuting daily on the train.
   
  Note that I don't have much listening impressions because one literally only has seconds to sample the gear until the seat must be vacated for somebody else… Yet, one can at least get a very rough idea of the tonality of a headphone, probably not much more so notes below are only worth so much, you are warned …
   
  ...
   
Next, Stax's new flagship prototype:
   
  First, I apologize for the poor quality pictures, I only had my iPhone as it's a bit difficult to use an SLR while holding a 9 month old baby in your arms… It looks like there were several people with nice photo gear covering the event so we'll surely see some nicer pics in a short while.
   
​ ​   
  Before listening to the new prototype, I had a brief chat with the Stax representative. Unfortunately I do not know who he is, but a very nice senior person. I speak a little Japanese but frankly not well. So please forgive if some of the following is inaccurate due to some loss in translation / foolish interpretation 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
   
  First, I asked when it was going to be out: first half of 2011 is the plan. Next, the price: 300k to 500kJPY. Third, a matching amplifier: yes likely, but not in the immediate future. So probably we can't expect an amp to be released at the same time as the new headphone. He did mention though that the current top of the line amplifiers from Stax can "drive this headphone without any trouble". 
   
  Next, I asked about the diaphragm: it is a new design. Something about a complicated manufacturing process because their are three layers assembled together by heating process. The thickness is higher than Omega 2 because while a light / thin diaphragm is good for transients, it is affected by "low" frequency resonances. This time around, it would appear that Stax has tried to achieve maximum stiffness (and damping, hence the multiple layers?) with the new diaphragm. Anyhow, it is a complex manufacturing process which I guess is driving the cost up.
  Next, the frame: aluminum, much stiffer than Omega 2 frame. The weight is a bit affected but I did not feel the headphone was heavy at all. The frame thickness may change slightly in the final version but looks like the looks is pretty much set (I find it really beautiful, the Omega2 looks cheap in comparison, and well, it will be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).
  Last: the name … Of course he did not say but this is a new series, beyond the Omega. The Omega 2 will remain on sale. When I asked about anniversary, he said that this is indeed a point as Stax is reaching 50 years in existence…
   
  Now to the listening. Again, it was too brief but I could go for two rounds fortunately. I listened on the 727A, which is nice because it's also my own amp. The source was a Marantz SA-15 or something like that, not very high end. 
  Well, what jumped at me is that the tonal balance is quite different from the Omega 2, it seems definitely more tonally neutral while the Omega 2 has a warmer tonality on this amp. 
  The highs of the prototype are very present but absolutely not shrill or detached from the rest. Next, the bass is absolutely there but tight. In comparison the Omega 2 does feel like the bass could be firmer / more controlled (again on the 727A). 
  It does seem like the headphones are quicker sounding than the Omega 2, and dynamics are improved. Too short listening to say for sure though, some of this might have to do with the more neutral tonal balance. 
  Finally, the ease of drive: while I listen to the Omega 2 at 9-10AM at home, I was at 12-2PM with the new prototype. Mind you, the source might have an impact on this. My yamamoto D/A is a rather hot source. 
   
  Overall, I have to say I was very impressed. It feels very much like a step in the right direction based on this short listening experience. The price is going to be steep, but it appears Stax is trying to get the top seat for best sounding headphone in production!


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> BoilermakerFan: Thanks for the clarification. The SR-003 are lovely headphones, especially considering their price!


 


  No problem. The pics will really explain everything once I have the tips.  Once the 003s are positioned in the ear correctly, they are phenomenal headphones.  I can't wait to hear them on my one-of-only-two hybrid 'stat amp that Cavalli was so kind to prototype for pabbi1 and me.  He managed to incorporate the features Al and I really wanted around the tubes we wanted.  Al has his populated, but I'm still selecting boutiques for my BOM and sorting the spec for the PS iron. 
   
  I think I'm in the minority because I love the SR-Lambda and 003s, but I'm not a huge fan of the O2s.  The 003s are like a bass boosted version of my Lambdas.  Even the crappy, distorted, and compressed RHCP or Foo Fighters is listenable on the 003s.  Of course, it is the curse of orthos and Stax that I now hear all the faults in my favorite bands crappy production and even worse mastering qualities on all their albums. And I can now hear those faults in my car too.  A case of the Princess and the Pea. 
   
  I can't justify the cost, but I'm looking forward to auditioning those new Stax TOTLs, especially if their signature is different than the O2s.


----------



## Region2

Thanks for the review on the C32 (Omega 3) arnaud!
   
  That's interesting that the C32 is flat.  I wasn't the largest fan of the warmer sound till the Omega 2 so it would be interesting to hear the C32 next to the Omega 2.  I wonder if the 727 is really enough since the O2 benefits from a much better amp, so I wonder how it the comparison would compare up if it was running off a BH or a T2.  Off the BH, the bass to me is very tight.  What it leaves me wondering with is does this difference stay with different amps.
   
  I have to say that your review has gotten me itching to trying the C32 especially as I'm enjoying T.Rex's Monolith on my O2 as I type this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Once again, thanks for the review.  The even must have been amazing. Lucky you!


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





region2 said:


> Thanks for the review on the C32 (Omega 3) arnaud!
> 
> That's interesting that the C32 is flat.  I wasn't the largest fan of the warmer sound till the Omega 2 so it would be interesting to hear the C32 next to the Omega 2.  I wonder if the 727 is really enough since the O2 benefits from a much better amp, so I wonder how it the comparison would compare up if it was running off a BH or a T2.  Off the BH, the bass to me is very tight.  What it leaves me wondering with is does this difference stay with different amps.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thank you for the post. You make very good points, I also wonder how it would sound with KG's designs, especially if it wouldn't sound bit bright thinking about what happens to the Omega 2? Or possibly it would make less of a difference compared to Stax offerings, meaning that the new headphone is much easier to drive? That'd be nice not having to fork so much money on the driver (although the investment in the headphone is really big this time).
   
  Arnaud


----------



## jaycalgary

So $3000-$6000 for O3. Sure is a lot of money. So now there is a new flagship out it is funny to hear someone talking about the O2 that it is cheaply built in comparison.
  At least it sounds like the O3 is more efficient. Doesn't most products that start with high prices overseas become more reasonable when they start to sell them to the
  North American market?


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Thank you for the post. You make very good points, I also wonder how it would sound with KG's designs, especially if it wouldn't sound bit bright thinking about what happens to the Omega 2? Or possibly it would make less of a difference compared to Stax offerings, meaning that the new headphone is much easier to drive? That'd be nice not having to fork so much money on the driver (although the investment in the headphone is really big this time).
> 
> Arnaud


 

 KG posted that the C32 and the T2 amp were an amazing combo.  Which had me drooling (doubt I have the chops to build a T2 yet though I'm not counting it out).
   
  I'm either hoping to see I have some money saved up or see if I can get these used at a reasonable price in the used market.  So either way I'll have quite the wait.  But the O2 are still amazing phones so I don't feel like I'll be dying over it.  It'd be like complaining about owning a Ferrari Enzo and complaining that it's not an FXX.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





region2 said:


> But the O2 are still amazing phones so I don't feel like I'll be dying over it.  It'd be like complaining about owning a Ferrari Enzo and complaining that it's not an FXX.


 

 Listening to them while typing the report, I totally thought so as well! Actually, if I spring for the new Stax, I would probably keep the Omega 2, at least in the beginning, until I make sure the new headphone is ok with all the music I listen to. Otherwise, I could imagine keeping the omega 2 for colder recordings...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Finally, the ease of drive: while I listen to the Omega 2 at 9-10AM at home, I was at 12-2PM with the new prototype. Mind you, the source might have an impact on this. My yamamoto D/A is a rather hot source.


 




  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> At least it sounds like the O3 is more efficient.


 

  
  My read on this point is less efficient because he turned the volume control further clockwise with the prototype.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Listening to them while typing the report, I totally thought so as well! Actually, if I spring for the new Stax, I would probably keep the Omega 2, at least in the beginning, until I make sure the new headphone is ok with all the music I listen to. Otherwise, I could imagine keeping the omega 2 for colder recordings...


 

 One of the nicest things about the O2MK2, in my personal experience, is its very forgiving nature. Remarkable considering the revealing character and ultra fidelity.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Finally, the ease of drive: while I listen to the Omega 2 at 9-10AM at home, I was at 12-2PM with the new prototype. Mind you, the source might have an impact on this. My yamamoto D/A is a rather hot source.


 
  That makes the new C32 the gold standard of inefficiency in Stax phones, as the Sigma/404 and the SR007 were about the same.


----------



## minivan

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> That makes the new C32 the gold standard of inefficiency in Stax phones, as the Sigma/404 and the SR007 were about the same.


 

 i wonder if those big holes on the stator of the C32 would reduce the stator surface, making it less efficient to drive, but those holes also made it sound more transparent then the 007?


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





minivan said:


> i wonder if those big holes on the stator of the C32 would reduce the stator surface, making it less efficient to drive, but those holes also made it sound more transparent then the 007?


 


  The hole in the center is for ventilation since the stators get hot.  The 727 are not good at driving the Omega2 as well, so it'd be hard to properly compare it with the C32.  We have to also consider listening conditions at an exhibition with plenty of noise and the considerably quieter setting of home.
   
  If there is inefficiency I would think it would be more towards the new 3 part stator.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





region2 said:


> The hole in the center is for ventilation since the stators get hot.


 

 Are you sure that the stators get that hot that they need to have a center hole for ventilation?
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## soundoholic

@arnaud: Thanx for your very interesting first impression.  It will be very exciting to determine, what the Stax senior think with: <... the current top of the line amplifiers from Stax can "drive this headphone without any trouble">.
  Don´t you think that your observation <...while I listen to the Omega 2 at 9-10AM at home, I was at 12-2PM with the new prototype...> could be caused by much noise in the hall, other than at home?
  As I assume the transducer technology (the new one) must be the same or at least similar to the new series of lambdas, so some characteristics may resemble each other. My new 507 has another sound signature then my other 5 lambdas. In comparison to 404LE some recordings with 507 are more precise, with tighten, stronger but proportional bass, natural suggestive mids with nice bypass to very pleasant trebles. Clearly improvement and surely a sign of the new line. I wonder how many similarities one find between 507 and C32...


----------



## svyr

Wonder if they put it on a stock or modded 727 on the display stand... 
   
   
  Thank you for the impressions, soundoholic  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 !


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Are you sure that the stators get that hot that they need to have a center hole for ventilation?
> 
> Wachara C.


 

 It's not that I think that they get hot, but what was said in the interview with the President of Stax when he was showing the C32 and the new 3 part design.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Feeling shy to decompose the drivers of my O2  completely (although I have an access to a cleanroom), I've decided to try a provisoric method and seal the pvc cover to the plastic rim with a scoth tape:
   

   
  Not elegant but hopefully protects a bit.
  There is aof course some HF squeak as getting
  rid of the dust once there is impossible but I have to live with that.
  Will use them until they die and then replace the drivers
  (at the stratospheric cost of 800GBP+VAT)
  or buy a new pair.
   
  @chinsettawong: is that a decomposed O2 driver on your pic?
  if so, how did you get rid of dust after assembling the phones together?
   
  C32 hype: don't you feel that the forums are being used
  to "prepare the ground" so that we pay those 4-5-6k$ for their new
  product?


----------



## Maxvla

The lambda series and the 1k ortho market is looking better and better with these new super priced headphones coming out, that's for sure.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Feeling shy to decompose the drivers of my O2  completely (although I have an access to a cleanroom), I've decided to try a provisoric method and seal the pvc cover to the plastic rim with a scoth tape:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 I am surprised about the squeaking from dust.  I have used and abused Lambdas and Sigmas over the years and never had a squeak out of them.  Once  a window broke during a  wind storm letting in enough dust to trigger an insurance claim. My Sigma Pro's and 404's worked just fine in spite of the dust.
   
  What you describe sounds like what you sometimes get with the Koss 950.  With my old set,  the problem was discharge from an electrode on the driver, along a cable which was too close. Possibly you have some  short that you can locate.  I was able to identify my Koss squeal by looking at the driver in the dark.  The discharge was actually visible.
   
  Re C32 hype, we have at least got beyond the speculations based on a single  picture.  One person has given a brief review and I see that Kevin Gilmore divulged that he has heard these and they are good ( but he has not said much more than that.)     
   
  I will be curious to see the full reviews when they come out abut at the moment I am more interested in seeing if the new 507 drivers could be put in a Sigma frame and would be an improvement over the Sigma/404.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Ed, thanks for the input.
  Remember that my protective pvc cover has lost the seal (if there was any 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  so dust had a chance to enter freely into the diaphragm.
  Actually I could rise the cover at +/- half the perimeter.
  In your experiments,
  have you removed/changed the dustcovers, so that the diaphragm was
  directly exposed to the dust?
   
  Discharge idea: also possible as I have replaced the original silevr ribbons.
  jumping from the cable to the driver.
  I did however paid attention that the new jumpers are spaced well enough...

   
  Now I have a fantastic mosquito-like HF sound...hmmm...
   
   
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I will be curious to see the full reviews when they come out abut at the moment I am more interested in seeing if the new 507 drivers could be put in a Sigma frame and would be an improvement over the Sigma/404.


 

 I'm thinking along the same lines! But the UK Stax dealer told me it's going to be a long way until
  he's able to get raw 507 drivers. Anyone wants to sell a pair of Sigmas with burned drivers for these sort of
  experiments? I don't have much experience with Sigma's (I own an NB set, but now it's 3000km from me ),
  but I've noticed that on my O2's I rotate the pads so that th drivers are most tilted wrt the ears...


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Feeling shy to decompose the drivers of my O2  completely (although I have an access to a cleanroom), I've decided to try a provisoric method and seal the pvc cover to the plastic rim with a scoth tape:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Hi *98664c3yijh,*
   
  I am fortunate that I own a DIY CNC machine and I make the drivers and everything myself.  You can have a look at my posts in the DIY forum: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones
   
  Have you solve your problem?  On my headphones, I do not cover the back side of my drivers with anything.  I've been using them for more than a year, and I haven't had any problem of dust going in.  I would check your wires again.  It is possible that the insulation has gone bad near the point where you made new solders and you didn't notice.
   
  @Region2 .  Do you happen to know what Stax means by a new 3-part design?
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> Ed, thanks for the input.
> Remember that my protective pvc cover has lost the seal (if there was any
> 
> 
> ...


 


 Try looking at these in the dark to see if you can see the source of the problem.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Thanks for the inputs, guys!
   
  @Wachara: I had a quick glance at your creations. Look very nice!! How about the sound?
  Have you compared them to STax, Koss, Senn, etc?
   
  @Ed, Wachara Ok, will try to look at the cables. I suspect the central one is too close to the center support.
  THe squeal increased actually after me sealing the perimeter, so either more dust came in
  or the cables were disturbed and arc to the case.
  I sort of seem to feel that the hurt driver is a bit less loud and has
  lost some attack,
  but this is not conclusive at all. I think I have quite different hearing characteristics of my ears.
  I'm listeting now changing channels and/or drivers L<->R


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi 98664c3yijh,
   
  Yes, I have compared my headphones to a few - Koss ESP.9, Lafayette, and an old Stax electret headphones.  All my fiends and I think mine sound much better.  However, I haven't had a chance to compare with any of the open back Stax electrostatic headphones yet.  I am hoping that I can do that within this week.
   
  Have you actually opened up and see if there is any dust in between the spacers and stators?
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> Don´t you think that your observation <...while I listen to the Omega 2 at 9-10AM at home, I was at 12-2PM with the new prototype...> could be caused by much noise in the hall, other than at home?


 

 That's possible although it was not really loud there. Anyhow, I did not listen to the Omega2 on the 727A at this event so there's no way I can assure sure I was listening at the same loudness as usual so don't put too much thought into this statement of mine. Although, I did listen to the Omega 2 fed by the 007t on the second round and was listening at 9-10AM.
  
  Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> C32 hype: don't you feel that the forums are being used
> to "prepare the ground" so that we pay those 4-5-6k$ for their new
> product?


 

 If I was a shill for Stax, if Head-fi and / or myself benefited in any way from the potential sales of C32, you would be correct. But as of now, I don't believe you are (else, explain to me how I could be making a buck out of this).
   
  If you mean that the impression of crazy high price tag (because indeed, 3 to 6kUSD is crazy expensive) can wear off with time because time is all one needs to get used to anything, I certainly agree with you. However, nobody is purposefully using the forums to make others digest the high sticker price.... It just happens to turn out that way...


----------



## jaycalgary

Just for fun.
  http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/199939-marantz_se1hp_electrostatic_headphones/


----------



## 98664c3yijh

arnaud, I absolutely did not mean your report! you went to the show, briefly heard the prototypes and wrote
  your impressions. thank you for that! of course a thought that head-fi might be directly getting
  some money/reward for boosting the sales is absurd and I'm not paranoic.
  but at the level of forum individuals the situation may be very different.
  the said truth is that fora are used to create artificial hypes and make you desire
  e.g. a cobalt coupling transformer or the newest stax or whatever bs.
  i'd be very careful with statements like:
   
  "nobody is purposefully using the forums to make others digest the high sticker price"
   
  there are influential people here and they can use their influence!
  throwing some bits here and there. to probe and prepare the ground.
  the moral is: be carefull, listen and evaluate yourself!!!


----------



## Beefy

Heh, I could easily pick them up if I thought they would work. Anybody got any information on them with respect to biasing requirements and pinout?
   
  [EDIT] Damn, everything seems to suggest they are exactly like a Stax normal bias...... http://www.epanorama.net/sff/Audio/Products/Receivers/Marantz%209111CMMAR-BRO-SE1.pdf
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Just for fun.
> http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/199939-marantz_se1hp_electrostatic_headphones/


----------



## Beefy

Alas, it doesn't appear as thought the Marantz are compatable with Stax amps, for whatever reason...... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-161300.html


----------



## ujamerstand

different pinout? Buy them and try it for us beefy!


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> @Region2 .  Do you happen to know what Stax means by a new 3-part design?
> 
> Wachara C.


 


  They went into it in a little bit of detail, but a lot of it was in terms of the difference in a new manufacturing technique (which is apparently fairly expensive and set the price of the C32 so high).
   
  I lost a few words and I'm working off memory.  So please forgive the following.  I will have to ask the missus back home to help me with some of the more technical terms since my Japanese is merely conversational.
   
  He used the word "san mai."  Mai is the counting form for thin layers (like sheets of paper and clothes).  Because of the weakness inherent with the 1 layer format they have changed it to a 3 layer format.  So it is a 3 layer approach which allows it be very thin but a much stronger structure which allows for a more accurate lower frequency.
   
  In short:
   
  Pros:
   
  Stronger
  More accurate low end
  Better temperature control (though I personally have no idea what this affects)
   
  Cons:
   
  Considerably more expensive


----------



## edstrelow

My impressions is that most of high end audio is a low volume industry with time and labor intensive manufacturing techniques.  Both the low market penetration and expensive manufacturing processes keep the prices up.
   
  What I am hearing about Stax's efforts with the new flagship reminds me of the time I was in a university department of electrical engineering where I saw the faculty and technicians make all kinds of amazing protoype products, from electrostatic sonars to electric cars.   Most of these items were going to be way too expensive in the market unless the designers could also come up with techniques that didn't need large amounts of time from skilled technicians.
   
  Stax have obviously found their manufacturing niche but I suspect they don't get too far past the type of work that I saw being carried out in that university research department and that's why something like the C32 could end up costing  $5k.  If you think that's bad,  I also saw an arm and turntable at over $80k in a recent audiophile magazine.  I am sure that kind of stuff is virtually hand made.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Alas, it doesn't appear as thought the Marantz are compatable with Stax amps, for whatever reason...... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-161300.html


 
   
  Yup, very different electrical properties even if the drivers are just a cheap version of the old Stax SR-3.  15-20M ballast resistor if I remember correctly and the pinout is different but you rewire them inside the earcups.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> http://www.eifl.co.jp/index/export/export2.htm


 

 Ed,
   
  How long did it take for a reply?  Do you remember how much the 003 cable was?  If it's $90 or more, I'll just buy a complete new set of 003s for $180. 
   
   
   
  I had to reschedule my ear impressions for Thursday morning.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> My impressions is that most of high end audio is a low volume industry with time and labor intensive manufacturing techniques.  Both the low market penetration and expensive manufacturing processes keep the prices up.
> 
> What I am hearing about Stax's efforts with the new flagship reminds me of the time I  in a university department of electrical engineering where I saw the faculty and technicians make all kinds of amazing protoype products, from electrostatic sonars to electric cars.   Most of these items were going to be way too expensive in the market unless the designers could also come up with techniques that didn't need large amounts of time from skilled technicians.
> 
> Stax have obviously found their manufacturing niche but I suspect they don't get too far past the type of work that I saw being carried out in that university research department and that's why something like the C32 could end up costing  $5k.  If you think that's bad,  I also saw an arm and turntable at over $80k in a recent audiophile magazine.  I am sure that kind of stuff is virtually hand made.


 
  I don't think it's bad, not at all. Esp. if there is some merit behind
  such prices.
  Creating artificial desires for profit and artificial pumping of the prices is bad.
  Being a niche manufacturer and playing dirty tricks on our naivness
  are absolutely not mutually exclusive!


----------



## 98664c3yijh

@Ed, Wachara: I've inspected the cables and tried to improve the "layout" but it did not help.
  I looked in the darkness and saw nothing, I moved slightly the cable connector so that
  there was no chance of short to anything; putting my ear close to the driver I could hear the squeaking.
  So I conclude this must be dust in the diaphragm.
  I haven't opened the drivers to try to locate it. I wait some time and see how annoying that
  is. After the last opening I did hear the sqeaking too, but then after leaving the drivers charged over a night
  it has almost dissapeared and appeared only ocassionaly. Now I have a full spectrum:
  a mosquito, a boiling kettle, a buzz, sqeaking...damn it!
  As it is right now, it's unbearable. The sound is quite loud and
  easily heard during silen passages.
  If it stays like that will open the drivers or send them to stax, or trash the O2 and get drunk
  admitting the failure!
   
   
  Cheers,
  jk


----------



## edstrelow

Well then it sounds like something in the driver, hopefully not a tear. I am guessing hair more than dust, unless it's some kind of dust bunny.  I guess there is a remote possibility that the cable has a short.
   
  There was some discussion a while back in this thread about getting crud out of drivers without damaging the transducer but I don't recall the conclusion as to whether or how to do this.  Having once split open a Sigma driver, my impression is that the membrane is pretty tough but don't put anything sharp near it.
   
  Too bad visual inspection in the dark doesn't identify the problem.  You'd think there would be some way to locate this short..


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Ed,
> 
> How long did it take for a reply?  Do you remember how much the 003 cable was?  If it's $90 or more, I'll just buy a complete new set of 003s for $180.
> 
> ...


 


 2 years ago Koji charged me $40.00 for the cable.  I bought it along with an 007A so there may have been more incentive to move the transaction along.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> @Ed, Wachara: I've inspected the cables and tried to improve the "layout" but it did not help.
> I looked in the darkness and saw nothing, I moved slightly the cable connector so that
> there was no chance of short to anything; putting my ear close to the driver I could hear the squeaking.
> So I conclude this must be dust in the diaphragm.
> ...


 
   
  I think you should just send them to me and get drunk.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  You can also try to vacuum the driver, if you do not want to open it.  Vacuum cleaning has proven to work on big ESL speakers.
   
  Good Luck.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Currawong

I wouldn't put a vacuum cleaner anywhere near a pair of Stax, you will destroy them.  What might work for big 'stat speakers wont work for headphones. Someone has already wrecked a pair of Stax after taking such advice, so please don't suggest it.


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Jk,
   
  I just recalled a similar problem like yours I have had.  Most of the times in my case, it's the problem of cable and solder.  It's either about to fail or the cable about to be broken at the soldering point.  I would take off the cables to check and resolder them back.  You can try to pull the cables to see if they are really well soldered.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I wouldn't put a vacuum cleaner anywhere near a pair of Stax, you will destroy them.  What might work for big 'stat speakers wont work for headphones. Someone has already wrecked a pair of Stax after taking such advice, so please don't suggest it.


 


  Hi Currawong,
   
  I'm sorry for my bad advice. 
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> My impressions is that most of high end audio is a low volume industry with time and labor intensive manufacturing techniques...
> Stax have obviously found their manufacturing niche but I suspect they don't get too far past the type of work that I saw being carried out in that university research department and that's why something like the C32 could end up costing  $5k.  ...


 
  I agree completely with you! I don´t understand somebody wanting to have probably the best sound of the world, better than many of LS for 50-70-80,000$ could generate, but griping about 5-8% of this sum for C32!  Hmmm...


----------



## 98664c3yijh

@Ed, Wachara: I think I managed to tame the problem, at least for the moment being.
  I disconnected and discharged the headphones and pumped some air through the
  driver (by pushing the cups towards the head). I repeated it several times, pushing the air 
  quite intensively. The problem seems gone (as for now). I suspect that was some
  dust that sticked to the diaphragm. The air flow (while discharged!!!) probably 
  unglued it from the membrane (let's se for how long).
   
  I pretty shure it's not been the wires, Wachara. I've soldered it very-very carefully (I've spent glorious 4h,making my friend soldering ultrathin golden wires to nanoprobes laugh!). I was only minimally
  and in a controlled way bending the cables with a tweezers. After the cables reached their +/- shape and position, I've warmed up the joints to release the strain.
   
  So I call it done at the moment and try by changing the channels try to see if there is a difference L/R. WHat I've discovered so far is that my L & R ears hear differently. This is sad news as I'll always have problems with headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





(
   
  Now, don't you think that 717 is anemic? Spritzer had the idea of making PP 845 monster, have you made it, Spritz? After contemplating 801A my heart now is more towards 1/2 6C33C,
  have to simulate...801A at the point I was interested has a plate resistance of 4.5k giving 9k plate-plate 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




(
   
  @soundaholic: what is this nonsense "the best sound in the world"? what makes you suspect C32 will give it, even if it existed? you uselessly heat up the atmosphere!
  mind you that there are some things $500-$800 speakers will do easily that even 6K$ headphones can never do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  cheers,
  jk


----------



## padam

You mean you are hearing a volume level difference or something else? Stax amps have independent volume controls for each channels so there is nothing to worry about if that is the case.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

Padam, it's much more complicated than that!
  At this moment I feel that one ear perceives more bass, and paradoxically
  is more sensitive to HF as well. The other is more
  deaf, the HF is not screaming (I listen to some horrible
  digital source now, sony 557esd or something so there is a lot of
  HF screaming), but better for MF detail.


----------



## padam

I am curious if you experienced the same with Sigmas as well where the drivers are more distant from the ears and not angled directly. I think I have a bit of a different hearing between L and R as well (probably most people do) but I don't really care.


----------



## vidsan

I apologize if this has been asked elsewhere before. 
   
  Is it possible to replace the Stax SR001 cables with something sturdier? I want to use them for a portable rig.


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> ...what is this nonsense "the best sound in the world"? what makes you suspect C32 will give it, even if it existed? you uselessly heat up the atmosphere!  mind you that there are some things $500-$800 speakers will do easily that even 6K$ headphones can never do


 
  If "the best sound in the world" could sound a little bit exaggerated or provoked, the sense of my notice could not be more obvious. Please also do not forget my word "probably" before "the best sound...". 
 But your statement  "...there are some things $500-$800 speakers will do easily that even 6K$ headphones can never do" - is even very perverse. Than so in return one can say  "...there are <some things> $50-$80 violins will do easily that even 60K$ speakers can never do". And so on. Isn´t it? Some things, hehe.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> @Ed, Wachara: I think I managed to tame the problem, at least for the moment being.
> I disconnected and discharged the headphones and pumped some air through the
> driver (by pushing the cups towards the head). I repeated it several times, pushing the air
> quite intensively. The problem seems gone (as for now). I suspect that was some
> ...


 

 Hi Jk,
   
  It's good to hear that you are making some progress.  Do you run your headphones off step up transformers (an energizer)  that connect to an amp? 
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





vidsan said:


> I apologize if this has been asked elsewhere before.
> 
> Is it possible to replace the Stax SR001 cables with something sturdier? I want to use them for a portable rig.


 


  The 001 is the portable Stax system with proprietary connectors at each end of the cable. The cable can be removed from the ear speaker, so you could make a tech-flex/Teflon sleeve for it and carefully heat shrink it the each of the three connectors, but how much abuse do you plan to subject it too?  Just MHO, but if you feel any concern about potentially damaging the cable with portable use, then you need to stock up on Koss KSC-75s and just abuse those straight out of the iPod or DAP.


----------



## 98664c3yijh

@padam: indeed I did! I even thought my left driver was dying.
   
  @Wachara: I drive my O2 with 717. a fairly standard combination, but
  I think 717 is not up to the task. It sounds anemic.
   
  Cheers,jk


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





98664c3yijh said:


> @Ed, Wachara: I think I managed to tame the problem, at least for the moment being.
> I disconnected and discharged the headphones and pumped some air through the
> driver (by pushing the cups towards the head). I repeated it several times, pushing the air
> quite intensively. The problem seems gone (as for now). I suspect that was some
> ...


 
   
  It's obviously a relief to you to get the phones running properly.   I hope the dust bunny is not still running around between the stators and membranes.  It's dam hard to see what is going on there.
   
  Re: balance between the ears, many people suffer from earwax build-up which can not only affect hearing but in my case can cause dizziness if it builds up on the ear drum.  A doctor can wash out the ears or in this country you can get ear cleaning kits, including drops and a syringe to wash the stuff out.  I do this every couple of months and it often results in a marked improvement in balance between the ears as well as improved high frequency hearing.
   
  Re: Best sound in the world,  I seem to recall that the guy who spent $70K+ for a turntable and arm thought he had state-of-the-art.  As regards best sound, even putting all state-of-the-art components together doesn't guarantee best sound since there are often issues of synergy.  I would hope  but I wouldn't assume that state-of-the art set of components would sound great together,  because you may need to experiment and match components after listening.


----------



## jgazal

@ edstrelow, soundoholic and jk (98664c3yijh)  
   
Price is not always related to costs. That only happens with perfectly-competitive markets. I do not think Stax plays in a perfectly-competitive market. Caution, I am not saying that headphone market is not competitive. What I am saying is that they (Stax) set a niche. They want to play at the blue ocean, with no competitors.
   
There are two main ways to avoid competitors (to have your own niche): the luxurious path (very subjective) or the technological path (very objective).
   
In the luxurious path, sky is the limit for price and there is absolutely no correlation to costs. It is what is called a Veblen good.
   
I do not think Stax marketing communication to consumers is solely based on such luxurious path.
   
I completely agree with edstrelow. Stax engineers made a wonderful prototype, but it has a high cost. They are not doing it in Canada (with cheap energy) or in China (with chip work force). They are doing it in Japan (nuclear plants, highly skilled work force, imported inputs etc).
   
One could argue that electrostatic design is inherently better, that has lower inter-modulation distortion etc.
   
Stax engineers could argue that this particular fixed pole with smaller holes in the mesh would be better, with less resonance at the stators (rigidity) and less reflections.
   
If we were talking about B2B (i.e. Stax to NHK, Stax to JVC etc.), engineers would like to see distortion plots (THD and IMD), to examine the real-world behavior of the membrane with a laser vibrometer etc. And as engineers they estimate the cost of the manufacturing process (or call their friends on metallurgy). It would be an objective way to evaluate the improvement. And I would love to see that data, as much as Boing want to see fuel consumption of and airplane engine...
   
But this is not going to happen with consumers. There are few people interested in technical data. To say the truth, most consumers make their buying decisions based on their feelings. They say "trust your ears", "an objective measurement cannot describe the whole performance of a transducer"... 
   
I am not criticizing this kind of behavior, as measurements are not fully disclosed by transducers manufacturers. Additionally, consumers do not have the equipment to do the measurements, so it would be an argument from authority anyway (unless the universities were willing to confirm the data replicating the experiments…).
   
So after listening to them, will there be consumers willing to pay the premium price?
   
Maybe yes, Maybe not. We will see.
   
Subjectivity can lead some of them unconsciously to the before mentioned luxurious marketing path. Their impressions about sound quality might reflect not the sound, but the price they paid for such equipment. I also cannot refuse the fact that many consumers buy a headphone because they want a luxurious good and they do not mind if the sound is slightly worse (I think the ordinary consumer, which is not a head-fier, is not completely unaware of sound quality)..
   
   
I for one do not have the income to go that high. But I would not say its price is completely uncorrelated to cost. And even if it were uncorrelated (say Stax had USD500 of costs; I believe it is much more than that*), there are many folks buying Accuphase, Esoteric and other Japanese high end brands...
   
Let’s see what NHK is going to buy for its studios? It is worst than that… Stax could give them free samples just for marketing purposes. 
   
If you cannot prove it, you have to believe in what you want to believe.
   
I think my posts are too long so people do not read them. Please say something, at least to swear (okay, not that, it is forbidden). This is just a test to see if someone read it…
   
*Why I believe that? Electrostatic technology is not a secret and it is not under industrial privilege. If the other competitors do not enter the market, it is because margins or quantities are not high. That means costs are probably higher than making dynamic transducers. It is better to other competitors to sell millions of dynamics than few electrostatics.


----------



## edstrelow

Not too long a post and an interesting analysis.  Possibly I think this because I tend to agree with it.
  
  
  Quote: 





jgazal said:


> I think my posts are too long so people do not read them. Please say something, at least to swear (okay, not that, it is forbidden). This is just a test to see if someone read it…


----------



## 98664c3yijh

@Ed: I certainly agree: seriously cleaning ears once-twice a year can give more improvement than buying 5k$ headphones!
  I think in my case it is not exactly that. Which 70k$ deck was that?
   
  @jgazal: I've actually read your post. While it can be/is that Stax is doing some real research and sound-oriented engeneering,
  it still does not mean they will never try to artificially create certain demands for their products, using eg community like this
  and various "friendly insiders". Their "smallness" is not a measure here: this dirty practices are often done by much smaller,
  garage companies who I believe exist solely due to the hype created on various forums.
   
  cheers,
  jk


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





jgazal said:


> Let’s see what NHK is going to buy for its studios? It is worst than that… Stax could give them free samples just for marketing purposes.


 


 Speaking of which, according to this website NKH already uses the O2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Not sure if they don't refer to the 4070 though, as this one was initially made for the Japanese TV.


----------



## jgazal

Thanks for the answers.


----------



## Clarkmc2

I for one am happy to see Stax as a company tweaking their designs forward. When the product is as fundamentally "right" as Stax headphones are, major technological breakthroughs are going to be rare. The only approach that promises certain improvement is refinement. Rather like BMW's approach to performance driving machines, as opposed to say the Japanese manufacturers (who are known for seeking technological breakthroughs and change systems as if each generation must have as little in common with the previous as possible. Apologies ahead of time for the generalizations). Develop systems where everything works together with positive synergy and improve where you can.
   
  The new driver technology addresses a limiting aspect of the previous manufacturing techniques. That is called improvement, or at least an attempt at improvement. I have been a Stax customer for thirty-five years and am very happy with the direction they are headed in. I hope this terrific small company survives and prospers. They have never been about bells and whistles and I find that refreshing in today's market. Stax is a quality company and a class act. In my admittedly worthless opinion, seeing a kindly older man's quiet enthusiasm for the latest developments as hype generation is a very warped read on the situation. Not to be contentious; that is just how I personally see it.
   
  Stax is not the only Japanese niche company like this. Look at Nitto, the bicycle component manufacturer. Compare them to Shimano and you will see what I mean.
   
  Clark


----------



## MuppetFace

Jack is sending my SR-507 out today, and I'll have it by Saturday. My initial impressions will be posted this weekend.


----------



## soundoholic

I very like this discussion! I agree with many aspects in jgazal post. But I think this very useful information is a bit off topic, you miss an intention of my notice. I meant: somebody cannot hardly complain the high Stax prices if taking it in relation to adequate speakers. Also in relation to the other (state-of-art: yes but not only) stuff in your rig. We want to optimize our rig and spend thousands of dollars for a better source, best music material, best cables, best amp (how many bucks costs BHSE?). And want to have a headphone (the last and most important element in rig!) to price of little part of amount we spend for every other element of HiFi-chain. That´s all I intended to say.    

 Another theme is what will be the price of C32 (now only speculation) and if it would be competitive to the market.

 jgazal: "...Stax engineers made a wonderful prototype, but it has a high cost."
 It´s true, I think so.
 "Price is not always related to costs. That only happens with perfectly-competitive markets. I do not think Stax plays in a perfectly-competitive market. Caution, I am not saying that headphone market is not competitive."
 Yeah, I suppose Stax throw the new models in the market (just the 507) because of quickly growing tension from competing companies as Sennheiser (HD-800) or Beyer Dynamic (T1), also magneto-static hp as LCD-2 or HE5-LE (HE6) make a good sound quality. How many people sell now stax for the HD-800? Many, perhaps for stax too many.
 Is the static principle better than every other one?
 I believe the free market power shows if prices of new models match buyers expectations or not.
 And last but not least: imho the price of 007A is much too high in relation to sound quality.
 That´s said without to look on the production costs.


----------



## spritzer

I don't think it's likely that somebody who has compared the HD800 against any modern Stax would sell his setup.  The HD800 is a very poor substitute for the HE60 let alone a vintage Lambda.  We even did a comparison here at the local Senn dealer, HE60 and my SR-404 (which sounds like a SR-SC1) with a stock SRM-T1 against the HD800/SPL Auditor and for me there was no contest.  The T1 he really seen better days since it still has the stock tubes, the stock PSU caps and I didn't even bother to adjust the bias on it (it's waiting on parts to be configured for ECC99's).  If I had brought the SRM-727 then the gap would have been even bigger, let alone with something like the BHSE. 
   
  I do know for a fact that Sennheiser aren't planning a new TOTL model so what competition is Stax responding to?  Ultrasone is just overpriced crap, Sony is out of the running and A-T have nothing substantial.  One must remember that the hype fueled madness which is Head-Fi means nothing for Stax, they rely on a strong dealer network (not in the US though) and the fact that everybody knows about Stax.  As for why the 507 was made, it was just a logical thing to do.  They have the new leather pads, new cable and new arc assembly so why not plug the gap in the lineup.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





jgazal said:


> What I am saying is that they (Stax) set a niche. They want to play at the blue ocean, with no competitors.
> 
> There are two main ways to avoid competitors (to have your own niche): the luxurious path (very subjective) or the technological path (very objective).






   
  Humm, so sound quality is not sufficient because it is subjective? I would argue that technology improvement as judged by non-technical people is very subjective and based on the quality of the mumbo jumbo put together by the marketing department. I think it's quite difficult for the common people to distinguish real innovation from magic dust because few people have the skills to make objective engineering judgment. 
   
        Quote:



jgazal said:


> If we were talking about B2B (i.e. Stax to NHK, Stax to JVC etc.), engineers would like to see distortion plots (THD and IMD), to examine the real-world behavior of the membrane with a laser vibrometer etc. And as engineers they estimate the cost of the manufacturing process (or call their friends on metallurgy). It would be an objective way to evaluate the improvement. And I would love to see that data, as much as Boing want to see fuel consumption of and airplane engine...
> 
> But this is not going to happen with consumers. There are few people interested in technical data. To say the truth, most consumers make their buying decisions based on their feelings. They say "trust your ears", "an objective measurement cannot describe the whole performance of a transducer"...






   
  I don't think there is such a large portion of the audience who would make use of such rational data. Additionally, there is a thin line between advocating your product and revealing all your trade secrets to a potential competitor (although in Stax case, there's no competition at the moment).
  Frankly, it's probably a good thing that more people judge with their ears rather than their brain because we would probably be missing on a lot of good sounding gear otherwise. There are still a lot of mechanisms of sound perception poorly understood, and design of exceptional sounding gear is not all a technician / engineer's game, it takes talent to make something sound good eventually. 
    
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgazal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Subjectivity can lead some of them unconsciously to the before mentioned luxurious marketing path. Their impressions about sound quality might reflect not the sound, but the price they paid for such equipment. I also cannot refuse the fact that many consumers buy a headphone because they want a luxurious good and they do not mind if the sound is slightly worse (I think the ordinary consumer, which is not a head-fier, is not completely unaware of sound quality)..






   
  I think at the prices we're talking about here, this is not common behavior, at least not in the long term. People will likely justify their purchase in the short term but will eventually come around, especially when new kids hit the block. For those people who spend in audio gear as a mean to establish social status, well, I think headphones are not bling bling enough or expensive enough to satisfy their needs. They need a crap sounding 100kUSD+ dang awful bright sounding speaker system for this.
   
  Quote:


98664c3yijh said:


> While it can be/is that Stax is doing some real research and sound-oriented engeneering,
> it still does not mean they will never try to artificially create certain demands for their products, using eg community like this
> and various "friendly insiders". Their "smallness" is not a measure here: this dirty practices are often done by much smaller,
> garage companies who I believe exist solely due to the hype created on various forums.


 

 Stax is not in this kind of business I believe. They're celebrating 50 years in existence, that should tell you something. They're also not famous for joining the bandwagon for whatever is popular at a given time. I am pretty sure they don't give a rats ass about what is being said in any forum but rather follow their own line to derive new technology and or sound signature. This is not a one man shop, internet savy 20 year old something boy using Facebook and whatever media he can to promote some home made sauce.
   
  Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> I for one am happy to see Stax as a company tweaking their designs forward. When the product is as fundamentally "right" as Stax headphones are, major technological breakthroughs are going to be rare. The only approach that promises certain improvement is refinement. Rather like BMW's approach to performance driving machines, as opposed to say the Japanese manufacturers (who are known for seeking technological breakthroughs and change systems as if each generation must have as little in common with the previous as possible. Apologies ahead of time for the generalizations). Develop systems where everything works together with positive synergy and improve where you can.
> 
> The new driver technology addresses a limiting aspect of the previous manufacturing techniques. That is called improvement, or at least an attempt at improvement. I have been a Stax customer for thirty-five years and am very happy with the direction they are headed in. I hope this terrific small company survives and prospers. They have never been about bells and whistles and I find that refreshing in today's market. Stax is a quality company and a class act. In my admittedly worthless opinion, seeing a kindly older man's quiet enthusiasm for the latest developments as hype generation is a very warped read on the situation. Not to be contentious; that is just how I personally see it.
> 
> ...


 
   
  So well said.


----------



## soundoholic

First to say: I´m not a fan of HD800. It´s not bad but imo do not match 404LE or 507. But I know enough folk they can kill themselves for that senn or a beyer T1. 
  If it is your view, spritzer (mine too! ...and I suppose many think here similar). But that doesn´t mean the others will think the same. See the forums in Europe. See the comments on dynamic stuff.
  Thanx for your comment.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I don't think it's likely that somebody who has compared the HD800 against any modern Stax would sell his setup.  The HD800 is a very poor substitute for the HE60 let alone a vintage Lambda.  We even did a comparison here at the local Senn dealer, HE60 and my SR-404 (which sounds like a SR-SC1) with a stock SRM-T1 against the HD800/SPL Auditor and for me there was no contest.  The T1 he really seen better days since it still has the stock tubes, the stock PSU caps and I didn't even bother to adjust the bias on it (it's waiting on parts to be configured for ECC99's).  If I had brought the SRM-727 then the gap would have been even bigger, let alone with something like the BHSE.
> 
> I do know for a fact that Sennheiser aren't planning a new TOTL model so what competition is Stax responding to?  Ultrasone is just overpriced crap, Sony is out of the running and A-T have nothing substantial.  One must remember that the hype fueled madness which is Head-Fi means nothing for Stax, they rely on a strong dealer network (not in the US though) and the fact that everybody knows about Stax.  As for why the 507 was made, it was just a logical thing to do.  They have the new leather pads, new cable and new arc assembly so why not plug the gap in the lineup.


 
   
  Why Stax, why?  Because they can.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Did you finish your custom HE60s yet?  I need to start on mine this winter after I order the leather 404LE replacement pads since it seems J$ will never get around to finishing the HE90 pads. 
   
  In 001/003 news, the wait begins.  The audiologist was very happy with my impressions and we selected the semi-soft material.  It's harder until the body temp warms it up so it will be easy to insert, then it seals better with time.  The tip will go all the way to the back of the driver housing, incorporating the horn of the driver that is inserted into the ear canal.  This will let the large part of the driver rest inside the outer part of my ear for additional support besides the canal tip.  The audiologist was confident I'll have a very good, tight fit.  No need for a headband.  I should get them back the week of Nov. 15.  The cost was $170 for the set which is the same price as the 100% silicone tips.  A harder plastic like polystyrene would have been cheaper, but I wanted this semi-soft material.  Color coded tips were no charge, so I went with solid blue and solid red.  Starkey keeps everything on file, so ordering replacements or duplicates in the future will be easy, regardless of where I'm living in the world at the time. 
   
  If I really like them, I will have similar tips made for my Denon C-710s for my ultra portable airplane rig.


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> I for one am happy to see Stax as a company tweaking their designs forward. When the product is as fundamentally "right" as Stax headphones are, major technological breakthroughs are going to be rare. The only approach that promises certain improvement is refinement. Rather like BMW's approach to performance driving machines, as opposed to say the Japanese manufacturers (who are known for seeking technological breakthroughs and change systems as if each generation must have as little in common with the previous as possible. Apologies ahead of time for the generalizations). Develop systems where everything works together with positive synergy and improve where you can.
> 
> The new driver technology addresses a limiting aspect of the previous manufacturing techniques. That is called improvement, or at least an attempt at improvement. I have been a Stax customer for thirty-five years and am very happy with the direction they are headed in. I hope this terrific small company survives and prospers. They have never been about bells and whistles and I find that refreshing in today's market. Stax is a quality company and a class act. In my admittedly worthless opinion, seeing a kindly older man's quiet enthusiasm for the latest developments as hype generation is a very warped read on the situation. Not to be contentious; that is just how I personally see it.
> 
> ...


 
   
  So well said x2.


----------



## edstrelow

Even as a long-time Stax user,  I wouldn't write off phones such as the Sennheiser HD800, I listened to several set-ups at Canjam in LA  and  it was clearly not a challenger to most Stax, unless it was used in a balanced configuration.   I was very impressed with the  Headroom balanced set-up I heard and I felt it gave the 007/ BHSE( whether 007Mk1 or 007A ) a run for the money .  Now I was not left with a desire to ditch my Stax rig for the Senn and I did not make as direct a comparison of these  two as I would have liked since the set-ups were in different rooms .  But the balanced Senn was better than I had anticipated and  I was left wondering what I would think if I had both in my own set-up to compare.  
   
  I felt I was hearing  a graininess with the HD800 which I seem to hear on all dynamics, but the HD800 was very punchy and may have had a slightly wider soundfield.    Of course the  cd playing sources  were different and you never know how much to attribute to that.  What I heard did not have me running out to sell my Stax rig for an HD800 rig, but I am not sure that a person who was interested in good sound, could afford either set-up, and had no prior commitment to either, would hear the 007/BHSE as a clear winner.
   
  Cost-wise, the HD800 balanced, with amp,  was going to cost as much as my 007A/717 but certainly not as much as the 007A/BHSE.  If the Stax prototype raises the price substantially over the 007, I think it is inevitable that more people will look at the TOL dynamics.
   
  Competition in design  is a good thing although I would rather see competition among makers of electrostatics to both improve designs and lower prices since I  believe the technlogy has fundamental advantages over dynamics.  However there doesn't seem to be anyone out there challenging Stax except Jade, and they don't seem to be getting much traction or getting prices much lower.


----------



## studeb

i have looked in this thread, and elsewhere for this:
   
  What is the diameter of the early Stax transducers?
   
  ta


----------



## ktm

I was talking to the ex-Stax dealer here in Dallas. They tell me that Stax told them they
  weren't selling in the US anymore. Yama's website dealer finder errors out.
  So is Yama's the ONLY place to buy in the US??? What happened?
  Either way, I know the local dealer was bummed when they told them they couldn't order any more product. They now carry only Senn and Grado.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





ktm said:


> I was talking to the ex-Stax dealer here in Dallas. They tell me that Stax told them they
> weren't selling in the US anymore. Yama's website dealer finder errors out.
> So is Yama's the ONLY place to buy in the US??? What happened?
> Either way, I know the local dealer was bummed when they told them they couldn't order any more product. They now carry only Senn and Grado.


 

 It might be coming from the other direction. My last major purchase was from a San Antonio dealer. After that he quit on Stax because Yama's kept screwing with him. I think if Yama's was sacked by Stax a huge improvement would be almost immediate.
   
  I cannot imagine any dealer putting up with them any longer.


----------



## svyr

>Sony is out of the running
   
  Weeell, Z1000 and new iems soon. Both cost an arm and a leg and a kidney.


----------



## sachu

LIstening to an SR-404 on an eXStata..Running balanced out from a presonus central station.This is quite good.
   
  i just wish the arc assembly wasn't so creaaky..annoying as hell if you move your head even the tiniest bit.


----------



## sachu

A few quick impressions. The detail level is real nice and all but its the standard electrostat sound regardless of what amp or stat i have heard. Great imaging and soundstaging, and you definitely get that light feel to the music, but that's what is exactly wrong for me. Compared to the LCD-2 and the EHHA I have here or even the thunderpants, i'd pick the latter every single time for that weight they bring to the music and be willing to sacrifice a little detail. That weight in the music is severely lacking for nearly all stats I have heard, but the O2 and even the O2 doesn't quite match up to the orthos here. This seems to be the only reason stopping me from going all out on a stat system. I truly do appreciate what the better stats can do. Goes to show no one headphone will fit all. That said, I am definitely going to pick up a used O2Mk1 in the next couple of months.


----------



## MuppetFace

Finally got my SR-507 in.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/506765/stax-sr-507-sept-1-2010-stax-sr-207-oct-1-2010-what/375#post_7039871
   
  Some quick initial impressions posted in the 507 thread.


----------



## n3rdling

Thanks for the impressions Romy


----------



## svyr

mhmhmhmmh. While fiddling with the DACs I found a 2 pin power cable (came with SRM-300...or MD11, I can't remember now), (JP), connecting it to the SRM-1, instead of the standard Australian 3 pin one, via a jp->aus plug adapter made the ground loop noise go away. Yay no more running the laptop on battery for playback/finally everything seems to work without any issues. 
   
  2 prong plug <3


----------



## spritzer

Just finished this, SRM-T1 to SRM-600 conversion:
   

  


 This only requires new anode resistors for the tubes (30K instead of 33K), rewiring of the tube sockets to get the correct filament voltage for the ECC99's and to rebias the amp.  I also swapped out all of the electrolytic caps as the stock units were close to 20 years old.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just finished this, SRM-T1 to SRM-600 conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Beautiful work!


----------



## Michgelsen

Looks neat. Does the hood of the amp still fit, or is it the photo that makes the ECC99 look that tall? And, of course, does it sound better or is the amp limited by other factors than the tubes?


----------



## spritzer

The ECC99 is just a little bit taller so the lid fits just fine.  The sound is a lot cleaner now but whether it is up to the new tubes or the new caps is hard to know...


----------



## svyr

>Just finished this, SRM-T1 to SRM-600 conversion:
   
  o.O sooo SRM-600 is better or because you could?

 those resistors are huge, spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just finished this, SRM-T1 to SRM-600 conversion:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

The ECC99 is a better tube on paper, it can handle more voltage and it has nice a feature which I value highly.  There is only one manufacturer who has ever made it so there is no way to roll it.  There is a gold version but it is just the same with gold printing on it.  Well then there is just wanting to try it for the heck of it too...
   
  The really big resistors were stock, I only added the green Kiwame resistors which are at least three times smaller than the units which Stax used, though also 2W.


----------



## svyr

but won't tell us about 




   
  btw, what's the transparent box thingy with 'OMRON' on it.
   Quote:


spritzer said:


> The ECC99 is a better tube on paper, it can handle more voltage *and it has nice a feature which I value highly. * There is only one manufacturer who has ever made it so there is no way to roll it.  There is a gold version but it is just the same with gold printing on it.  Well then there is just wanting to try it for the heck of it too...
> 
> The really big resistors were stock, I only added the green Kiwame resistors which are at least three times smaller than the units which Stax used, though also 2W.


----------



## jgazal

General Purpose / Industrial Relays DPST-NO 3A 12VDC 400Ohm Through Hole (G2R-2A-H-DC12)
   
  Guess this amplifier has also one for a similar purpose: 
   
  Quote: 





> Tube Headphone Amplifier/Preamp with Relay-Based Input and Power Switching by Helmut Ahammer
> (...)
> This amplifier features relay-based input and power switching. The stepped and slow turn-on for the power supplies result in less stress for the tubes and other components and reduces turn-on thumps that could damage headphones. Most tubes fail at turn-on. Without the slow turn-on, if the tube heater filament is cold, the resistance is lower and the in-rush current of a cold filament could be very high and cause the filament to break. And if the filament is not hot, it is better that the plate voltage is not applied. Applying the plate voltage with cold filaments can reduce the lifetime of the tubes.
> (...)


 
   
  Is that right, spritzer?


----------



## spritzer

The special feature is that you can't roll the tubes.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I like that since the horrors of tube rolling and how clueless people are about the roles tubes play in the amps frightens me.  Some actually think it is ok to remove the tubes while in use...
   
  All the Stax amps have a delay which warms up the tubes before applying the HV.  Not really needed but it can't hurt.


----------



## jaycalgary

Do you use just off the shelf parts for upgrading capacitors and new ones a lot smaller? I have an SRM/1 MRK/2 that I am thinking it may help to change the electrolytic capacitors. There is a electronic parts store here in town but the parts would be average new replacements.
  Would there be anything else in this amp besides the electrolytics that would be a good idea to change? Thanks for any advice.


----------



## svyr

I asked spritzer/kevin the question about what else to replace and was told the el caps is sufficient and the rest aged pretty well. 
   
  (my srm-1/mk2 had more parts replaced, since there was a dead bias resistor and we thought it wouldn't hurt to replace the blue caps/diodes around it... and a couple more for the lols, since the min order sizes were in 10s for me. Also upgraded some parts to higher spec ones on Birgir's/Kevin's advice. E.g. the 2pf caps to 1kv instead of 500v and 630v power section ones to 1kv)
   
*I would say - if it works - replace the el caps (450v and the 35v ones) and leave everything else alone. *
   
  Birgir would also tell you to adjust the bal/offset pots 





   
   
*As for parts, *you can order some from farnell, digikey, mouser, rs-components, etc (but it may take up to a week for delivery.on the other hand, my local electronics store carried very little of what I needed). I was told - if the tolerances are ok and the specs are ok, the brand doesn't really matter, unless there's a history of them exploding in people's faces or major reliability problems.
  (funny story here - taller/wider caps are not better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )
   
   Quote:


jaycalgary said:


> Do you use just off the shelf parts for upgrading capacitors and new ones a lot smaller? I have an SRM/1 MRK/2 that I am thinking it may help to change the electrolytic capacitors. There is a electronic parts store here in town but the parts would be average new replacements.
> Would there be anything else in this amp besides the electrolytics that would be a good idea to change? Thanks for any advice.


----------



## jaycalgary

Thanks I will keep it simple and just change the electrolytics. Is there any instruction on how to properly adjust the balance offset pots?


----------



## spritzer

These are just parts from Mouser.  Caps today are much smaller then they used to be but I just added these in a hurry so I didn't pay too much attention to the size besides from the pitch.  That has to be correct or you'll end up with stuff you can't use.  The 400V caps are snap in and made by Panasonic (part number ECO-S2GA101BA).  The smaller units are normal radial units with leads and I use either Panasonic FC's or Nichicon Muse. 
   
  To adjust the balance and offset take a look at the KGSS build instructions at Headwize or how you setup the Exstata amps.  Basically you put the probes into the Stax output sockets (red in + and black in -) and you adjust balance for 0VDC.  Then you remove the black lead, ground it to the case and adjust the offset to 0VDC.  It's better to use two meters when doing this as adjusting one with affect the other.  Then to the same for the other channel. 
   
  Also, speaking of the Exstata, I just finished mine.  It was originally done fully P-P but a boardset was gifted to me so it made sense to use the amp boards.  The build is about as far from stock as you can go with better transistors, much larger PSU and higher rail voltages.


----------



## Beefy

Has your opinion of the sound changed at all with this build?
   
  My stance that it sounds _much_ better than a transformer box still holds, but with no other point of reference......
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Also, speaking of the Exstata, I just finished mine.  It was originally done fully P-P but a boardset was gifted to me so it made sense to use the amp boards.  The build is about as far from stock as you can go with better transistors, much larger PSU and higher rail voltages.


----------



## spritzer

Ok, I had a nice long reply all typed up but then Huddler froze while bringing up the smiley menu.  Did monkey's write this crap?
   
  Anyway, the presence of my rebuilt and XLR equipped SRM-1 Mk2 has only made my findings clearer.  The main issue for me is the bass, on the SRM-1 Mk2 is it tight and nimble even with the SR-007 but on the Exstata you have a bloated mess which doesn't reach deep when it is called for and obscures a lot of small details.


----------



## AudioDwebe

I'm considering picking up a Stax rig and would like to know what a reasonably good price for a Lambda Signature and SRM-1 MK2 combination would be. 
   
  Thanks.
   
  'Dwebe


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok, I had a nice long reply all typed up but then Huddler froze while bringing up the smiley menu.  Did monkey's write this crap?
> 
> Anyway, the presence of my rebuilt and XLR equipped SRM-1 Mk2 has only made my findings clearer.  The main issue for me is the bass, on the SRM-1 Mk2 is it tight and nimble even with the SR-007 but on the Exstata you have a bloated mess which doesn't reach deep when it is called for and obscures a lot of small details.


 


  Completely opposite view here, though your views are no big surprise. I did use the two amps with an ESP950, LambdaPro and SR404. Exstata is way better and the SRM1-mk2 got sold fast. It was onlythe 717 that had better synergy with the O2 over the exstata for me. But the latter did better with the Koss and the 404.


----------



## spritzer

I take it that SRM-1 Mk2 was fully rebuilt?  If not how the hell are you going to compare a new amp with one that is 20-30 years old?  The PSU is the SRM-1 Mk2 is just RC so with caps well past their sell by date the amp has drifted out of spec.


----------



## sachu

Gotcha. So, any other mods to your srm1-mk2? changes to circuit,device swaps,etc?
   
  Assuming the exstata has had little to no burn in..do your impressions change with a few hours (5-10) of burn in?


----------



## svyr

nomnomnom. i want my transistor-amp v3 to be delivered. 

 

  NOW! lol. (last pic before normal bias socket was put in)
   
  Still a week to go. DHL is too slow and too expensive. 
   
   
  Then compare it to SRM-1/mk2. Not sure if converting it to bal outputs makes any difference in sound, but the bass is as you describe it on my rebuilt unit...Nice and tight. 
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok, I had a nice long reply all typed up but then Huddler froze while bringing up the smiley menu.  Did monkey's write this crap?
> 
> Anyway, the presence of my rebuilt and XLR equipped SRM-1 Mk2 has only made my findings clearer.  The main issue for me is the bass, on the SRM-1 Mk2 is it tight and nimble even with the SR-007 but on the Exstata you have a bloated mess which doesn't reach deep when it is called for and obscures a lot of small details.


----------



## spritzer

Ahh so you bought one of those.  Very nice and it should be a good upgrade over the SRM-1 Mk2.  Very similar circuit but higher rail voltages and a better PSU design. 
  
  Quote: 





sachu said:


> Gotcha. So, any other mods to your srm1-mk2? changes to circuit,device swaps,etc?
> 
> Assuming the exstata has had little to no burn in..do your impressions change with a few hours (5-10) of burn in?


 

 No circuit mods and the only real changes were two new resistors (needed to make it fully balanced) and new 5466 output devices.  If this amp was made today then Stax would use these which are pretty much identical to the stock units.  The rest is just a 4PDT switch, a 4 gang RK27 and mini XLR's, 
   
  There is no such thing as burn in so that is hardly going to change matters.  Now adding a CCS instead of the load resistors and fixing other issues with the circuit will but then you'll just end up with a SRM-323.


----------



## sachu

k...i do believe in burn in..but the 2-5 hour variety. Anyways..what i really need now is a good stax headphone. 
   
  Going from my offline discussions with a reputable stax HF user, the LNS shhould be right up my alley as I wait for an o2Mk1 to pop up, or lose all sanity and swing for a C32 when it is indeed released....Should have an ESP950 on its way over to me as well towards the end of the month.


----------



## Currawong

The LNS I regret selling in many respects, as they have the right overall "sound" for me--at least, did with the thicker pads that were on mine.


----------



## svyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> Ahh so you bought one of those. Very nice and it should be a good upgrade over the SRM-1 Mk2. Very similar circuit but higher rail voltages and a better PSU design.


   
   
  Thanks spritzer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . Well good to hear, I'll probably like it then. Yep, bought it at some point when before realizing the SRM-1/mk2 was fixed and Musiland MD11 was outputting DC on line out lol.
  Looked like good build quality, a touch of personalization (engraved faceplate), solid case, nice parts and a good price.
  Plus a pre-built unit was available, and customizations only took 3 weeks (as opposed to finding a decent builder and waiting until eff knows when). Peter Rill who built it, is also very nice to deal with.http://peter.family-rill.de/
   
*soundoholic* may have talked me into it lol. It's not as input/output range sexy as his fancier named tav3 http://www.head-fi.org/gallery/album/view/id/0/user_id/160021 / http://peter.family-rill.de/Blog/Neuer-Stax-TransistorAmp , but same circuit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .
   
  updated the link to the insides to a larger pic btw.
   
   
  Might get an SR-507 as well, but first need someone to buy my stuff =( http://www.head-fi.org/forum/newestpost/521340  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/newestpost/519530 (yes, I am rather shamelessly linking to it but at this point I'm broke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )
   
   
   
   
  Quote:


> The rest is just a 4PDT switch, a 4 gang RK27 and mini XLR's,


   
*Hm, forgot about the vol pot. I take it if the R/L measure ok with test tones and there's no crackling on adjustment = good/don't need to swap?*

  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sachu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Going from my offline discussions with a reputable stax HF user, the LNS shhould be right up my alley as I wait for an o2Mk1 to pop up...Should have an ESP950 on its way over to me as well towards the end of the month.


 
 why not add a few $ and get a new design sr-407 any other one when the reviews are in?
   
  Quote:


> k...i do believe in burn in..but the 2-5 hour variety. Anyways..what i really need now is a good stax headphone.


   
  I'd be more concerned about warm-up. Much more tangible and you can measure the drift. (re: bal/offset adjustments)


----------



## spritzer

If the pot works then it works.


----------



## mrarroyo

Spritzer very nice work! One day I will be able to afford a nice Stax amplifier.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

mrarroyo
   
  LOVE the new avatar.  Does it get any better than air cooled V-Dubs, thongs, stilettos, and thigh highs?


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> mrarroyo
> 
> LOVE the new avatar.  Does it get any better than air cooled V-Dubs, thongs, stilettos, and thigh highs?


 

 You are correct, not much is better!


----------



## MuppetFace

Classy.


----------



## les_garten

Class ain't got nuthin' to do with this...
   




  
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Classy.


----------



## ford2

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> mrarroyo
> 
> LOVE the new avatar.  Does it get any better than air cooled V-Dubs, thongs, stilettos, and thigh highs?


 


   They did design a water cooled dub but the engine lacked the power to turn the pump.The Aussie outback used to be littered with those things.(Cars and the Bimbo's)


----------



## Mr.Sneis

omg #1 please.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Very nice. I like the red bug. Clean.
   
  My headband, well the cheap plastic hangers, broke beyond repair on my novas. Stax wants $130 for a replacement headband?? That is about what I paid for the headspeakers lol. So I am sporting a sweatband complete with Stax. Works great btw. Need to get my wife to take a picture.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Very nice. I like the red bug. Clean.
> 
> My headband, well the cheap plastic hangers, broke beyond repair on my novas. Stax wants $130 for a replacement headband?? That is about what I paid for the headspeakers lol. So I am sporting a sweatband complete with Stax. Works great btw. Need to get my wife to take a picture.


 

 I really like to see how you change from a headband to a sweatband.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Very nice. I like the red bug. Clean.
> 
> My headband, well the cheap plastic hangers, broke beyond repair on my novas. Stax wants $130 for a replacement headband?? That is about what I paid for the headspeakers lol. So I am sporting a sweatband complete with Stax. Works great btw. Need to get my wife to take a picture.


 

 I really like to see how you change from a headband to a sweatband.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 x2.. x3?  For me as well.  I would love to see this photo of a sweatband replacement!


----------



## Shike

Hey guys, vintage Stax question for you.
   
  I've been playing around with my SR-5's for some time now after the mod and the one thing I noticed is it seems hard to get as much volume out of them as I'd like.  Normally I run Zune (Mp3Gain) > 15w t-amp > SRD-7 > SR-5.
   
  Not able to get a lot of volume.  However, when I use my NAD Headphone jack > T-Amp > SR-5 I'm able to get a LOT louder without picking up any distortion.  This is using the same source files.
   
  Any idea why this is?  Do I need a bigger amp or do I need to add a preamp for a gain stage?  Any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## n3rdling

If I'm reading it correctly, it's because the output volume of the NAD HP jack is higher than that of the Zune.


----------



## Shike

Quote:


n3rdling said:


> If I'm reading it correctly, it's because the output volume of the NAD HP jack is higher than that of the Zune.


 
  
  Pretty much.  So should I just use a preamp as a gain stage do you think?  Or possibly something like a wallwart cmoy for a bit more voltage gain before hitting the T-Amp?  Where I'm putting it I won't be able to use the NAD.
   
  Just trying to figure out what the best compromise on a budget is.  In other news I'm enjoying the 1 micron mylar mod I did on them


----------



## spritzer

It's a matter of gain but there is always the issue of overloading the T-amp input.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's a matter of gain but there is always the issue of overloading the T-amp input.


 


  True.
   
  I guess I'll use the NAD for a while to make sure everything works fine at the volume I want using the T-Amp.  If it works out I'll find a simple preamp circuit somewhere I can piece together and call it a day.
   
  They also seem to have gotten a bit louder as I left them for about an hour with the biasing on.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





shike said:


> They also seem to have gotten a bit louder as I left them for about an hour with the biasing on.


 


  Hi Shike,
   
  From an earlier thread you mentioned that you did a mod with 1 micron Mylar on your headphones.  If the sound gets louder after you leave the biasing voltage on for an hour, I think that your coating on the diaphragm could be too high in resistivity.  What material do you use for coating?
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I used Elvamide.  What would you suggest in comparison?


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Shike,
   
  I have tried graphite powder, PVA glue + water + black ink, and liquid soap.  They all worked fine, but were not as good as an antistatic solution.  Now I like to use Staticide 6300.  It seems to be very stable.  I do not have any problem with having to charge my headphones a whole hour before listening. 
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Very nice. I like the red bug. Clean.
> 
> My headband, well the cheap plastic hangers, broke beyond repair on my novas. Stax wants $130 for a replacement headband?? That is about what I paid for the headspeakers lol. So I am sporting a sweatband complete with Stax. Works great btw. Need to get my wife to take a picture.


 
  What all broke the hanger yokes, the arc, or the headstrap?


----------



## Lunatique

I have been getting the left channel cutting out and or becomes unstable as if the connection is bad, and I can't figure out what's wrong. It comes without warning, and seems to go away without explanation either. Usually if I move the headphone a bit (or tap on the left housing), or twiddle the volume knob on the 717, it seems to make the problem go away, but I can't be totally sure that my action are directed related to restoring the left channel. Sometimes it just goes away by itself, and it also appears without warning, even though I haven't moved at all.
   
  My 007mk2 is brand new, and I have never abused it--it just hangs on a stand with a cloth cover over it when not in use. The 717 amp is also pristine as far as I know. Anyone can tell me what's going on?


----------



## spritzer

Only one real possibility, bad connection in the cable.  The amp has a servo-linked protection circuit but that should cut out both channels.


----------



## Lunatique

Quote:


spritzer said:


> Only one real possibility, bad connection in the cable.  The amp has a servo-linked protection circuit but that should cut out both channels.


 

 How could I know for sure? Is there something I could do to troubleshoot it? Sometimes tapping the housing or jiggling the cable doesn't restore the signal, nor does twiddling the volume knob. It seems to come and go as it pleases.


----------



## Lunatique

I also just noticed that turning off and on the amp seems to fix it, as does plugging the cable into the other output of the amp (I was using the one the right, and I just swapped to the left one). Could it be the amp?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I also just noticed that turning off and on the amp seems to fix it, as does plugging the cable into the other output of the amp (I was using the one the right, and I just swapped to the left one). Could it be the amp?


 


 Possibly the connectors in the socket need cleaning or there is a bad solder joint on the back of the socket.
   
  One remote possibility is that the amp is overheating due to an accumulation of dust inside.  Because the 717 is open it may need periodic cleaning.  But this would probably shut down both channels.


----------



## spritzer

The only possible fault with the amp outside of a loose solder joint would be the offset/balance being off which will turn off the output relay, killing both channels.  Both outputs sockets are parallel connected, ditto on the bias wire.  If one works then the other one should as well unless there is a cold joint on one of the connectors.


----------



## John Buchanan

It's a long shot, but try moving the xlr to rca switch back and forth a few times (when the amp is unpowered). There were problems with my Stax Monitor that this (and Deoxit) solved. Also, the other switch under the cover (for volume control/no volume control) may need some playing with.


----------



## Audiofiler

^ Agreed
   
  Though not always that common, so was the case for me in the past once, this.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





lunatique said:


> I have been getting the left channel cutting out and or becomes unstable as if the connection is bad, and I can't figure out what's wrong. It comes without warning, and seems to go away without explanation either. Usually if I move the headphone a bit (or tap on the left housing), or twiddle the volume knob on the 717, it seems to make the problem go away, but I can't be totally sure that my action are directed related to restoring the left channel. Sometimes it just goes away by itself, and it also appears without warning, even though I haven't moved at all.
> 
> *My 007mk2 is brand new, and I have never abused it*--it just hangs on a stand with a cloth cover over it when not in use. The 717 amp is also pristine as far as I know. Anyone can tell me what's going on?


 


 I dont mean to pour salt on one's wounds, but I remember you posting that it was a demo unit.
  Realistically it could have seen a lot of use or abuse at the hands of others.
  I know nothing about your amp, but the symptoms you describe have all the hallmarks of a bad connection.
  Possibly in the headphone cable or soldered connections behind the one jack?


----------



## jaycalgary

I had a problem on 1 of my SRM/1 Mrk/2 inside the amp the blue wire to the rca jack was not connected. The amp worked great for me for a long time then the channel went out. Probably not common because it was not cold solder
  and all the other soldering looks great. It was just like they never used any solder on that 1 connection.


----------



## svyr

jaycalgary said:


> I had a problem on 1 of my SRM/1 Mrk/2 inside the amp the blue wire to the rca jack was not connected. The amp worked great for me for a long time then the channel went out. Probably not common because it was not cold solder
> and all the other soldering looks great. It was just like they never used any solder on that 1 connection.




doubt he'd have a loose wire, but he could always inspect solder joints along the left channel on the amp and/or reflow (heat w a bit more solder to refresh) them. I'm sure the schematic for 717 is floating around. Reflowing all the joints on my SRM-1/mk2 took me maybe 4h, so just the left channel and just the seemingly important bits shouldn't take long at all (just tick the ones you reflowed on the schematic, in case you need to reflow more later)

of course it may be easier to borrow a pair of other electrostatic hp w pro-bias or buy a cheap used set and have a look if the problem is still there on them.


----------



## jaycalgary

Probably not the same problem but I was really happy it was an easy fix. One thing I was wondering about is does Stax coat the boards with something after they put it all together? I was just cleaning off the
  underside of circuit board and it was gummy so I quit and left it.


----------



## extendednoodle

it looks great


----------



## reiserFS

Insides look like it was build by Rille himself, excellent guy to talk and deal with.
  Quote: 





svyr said:


> nomnomnom. i want my transistor-amp v3 to be delivered.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## svyr

reiserfs said:


> Insides look like it was build by Rille himself, excellent guy to talk and deal with.




yes, as far as I know, Peter built it. and as you say he's a great person to talk to on audio stuff =) . Hehe, didn't know he was famous among German head-fiers  . He also made me a couple of cables.

=( I'm still waiting for DHL tho (same status from 2nd of Nov


> Status from 02.11.10 04:14 hours The international shipment has been processed in the export parcel center
> Next step The international shipment is being prepared for forwarding to the destination country



). Heh, I should've forked out for EMS instead.


----------



## Sim1

Hello! I also have amp build by Peter, the HybridAmp ( you know it, reiserFS  ). I am amazed by the build quality and sound. Actually I am waiting now for fully equipped new rear panel from Peter to have XLR jacks instead of RCA.


----------



## maruzen

added the stax sr lambda pro and the srm-1 / mk-2 amp to my gear. this combo out of the udac2 pretty much decimates everything i have heard and experienced so far 
   
  these vintage stax are amazing!


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quick update on the custom tips for the SR-001s.  Seems they are a little more challenging to make than Starkey estimated.  My week to ten day wait is now on day 19 and they haven't shipped yet.  I'm going to call the audiologist for an update, but I suspect they have gone through a few variations at the plant...


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Can anyone point me towards a pad change how-to or breakdown of o2s?  I found some older posts that talk about a manual with broken links 
   
  Also some do's and don't for care and maintenance?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> Can anyone point me towards a pad change how-to or breakdown of o2s?  I found some older posts that talk about a manual with broken links
> 
> Also some do's and don't for care and maintenance?
> 
> Thanks!


 

 Depends on which kind you have.
   
  But for the mk1, spritzer answered that question here:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/1470#post_2850219
   
  Michgelsen posted a pic of instructions: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/13575#post_6733166
   
  The replacements should come with instructions.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Thanks region and op's, that got the job done!


----------



## MuppetFace

Just a heads up guys....
   
  There's a KGSS for sale on Headphile. See "Deal 7." The price is under $2000. Hurry! Hurry!


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Woohoo!  My custom tips for the 001s are finally in.  My appointment for final fitting is Monday morning at 10:30am.   I'm hoping they don't need a remold or too much adjustment so I can bring them home at that time.  Starkey did struggle with them, so I'm not sure how much they will cost moving forward or how many times they had to mold this set.  I'll let you guys know...


----------



## AudioCats

001 molds, me like! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Pictures please!


----------



## bobkatz

O2, SR5 gold and Souped SRA-12s report. Sitting in a rest. Post thanksgiving enjoying good company but can't help reporting some things. The O2s came in from Woo Audio after a dreary 3 or 4 week wait and boy were they worth it. They Blow everything away (and everyone!). Best, most solid, and impacting bass response of ANY headphone I've ever heard. Beats ANY dynamic I've ever heard, and I have Senn 650s and have had they AKG 800 here (which I do not like, it's got a very fake Hf rise) and there's no comparison. The Omega 2s throw a big soundfield and actually have some loudspeaker-like depth. The pleasure is enormous. While waiting I was enjoying my new gold Pros which are pros inside an SR5 headshell. The SR12s bias has been raised to +350 and it drives either set of cans well. I'm still waiting for Justin to finish my KGSS. It's been a month and a half and Ill be polite here

Anyway, after getting the O2s I was able to quantify the bass loss of the SR5s and I was able to get a very nice extension by putting a 2 dB boost below about 60 Hz into a Metric Halo ULN8 and using it's DAC to drive the Stax amp. No problem whatsoever with headroom an this is a marvelous improvement in accuracy for the SR5s which now sound like slightly smaller O2s in terms of image and impact but very close in terms of freq resp. The SR5 pros are about 4 dB more efficient than the O2. 

I'm in heaven and can't wait for the KGSS. The 2 uF coupling caps in the SRA though take the bass down to the center of the earth! It almost frightens me what direct coupling and 1000 volt-capable swing are going to do! ( I do not listen too loud but I love headroom!)

Until then

Bob


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> 001 molds, me like!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I actually picked them up yesterday so I can get some use on them before the final fitting.  Need to feed the 001 amp off my Denon CDP to make final comments on the sound, but the tip is looser on the driver than I liked but it has no effect on weakening the bass.  They actually have more bass than I care for in most cases, at least off an iPod. The highs were not as forward as they are with the stock tip, but I think that is the iPod and not the tips.  I'm going to have my audiologist polish the IDs too to see if that helps. 
   
  I'll upload a pic shortly.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

The tips are made from a heat sensitive harder plastic with 30% silicone content, so when they are "cold" at room temp they are like a hard plastic.  As the ear warms them up, they become much more soft and pliable so the seal off better and are much more comfortable over time.  As you can see the drivers are much further out of the ear now.  I thought this would kill the basstoo, but it didn't.  If the highs aren't there with my Denon CDP, then I'm having them remolded, but otherwise I'm generally happy with the results.
   
  The pics:


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> O2, SR5 gold and Souped SRA-12s report. Sitting in a rest. Post thanksgiving enjoying good company but can't help reporting some things. The O2s came in from Woo Audio after a dreary 3 or 4 week wait and boy were they worth it. They Blow everything away (and everyone!). Best, most solid, and impacting bass response of ANY headphone I've ever heard. Beats ANY dynamic I've ever heard, and I have Senn 650s and have had they AKG 800 here (which I do not like, it's got a very fake Hf rise) and there's no comparison. The Omega 2s throw a big soundfield and actually have some loudspeaker-like depth. The pleasure is enormous. While waiting I was enjoying my new gold Pros which are pros inside an SR5 headshell. The SR12s bias has been raised to +350 and it drives either set of cans well. I'm still waiting for Justin to finish my KGSS. It's been a month and a half and Ill be polite here
> 
> Anyway, after getting the O2s I was able to quantify the bass loss of the SR5s and I was able to get a very nice extension by putting a 2 dB boost below about 60 Hz into a Metric Halo ULN8 and using it's DAC to drive the Stax amp. No problem whatsoever with headroom an this is a marvelous improvement in accuracy for the SR5s which now sound like slightly smaller O2s in terms of image and impact but very close in terms of freq resp. The SR5 pros are about 4 dB more efficient than the O2.
> 
> ...


 

 Your post made me reach for the SR-007's and fire up the BHSE.


----------



## TheAttorney

The latest edition of hifi+ has a positive review, by Roy Gregory, of the SR-007 II and SRM-007t II (kimik modified). Roy isn't a headphone addict, so there was nothing in the review that would be news to any headfier. The only comparisons were general ones against loudspeakers, where he made the case for the Stax being a viable alternative to high end speakers (different pros and cons, as you might expect). I'm bringing it up because:
   
  1. It's great to seeing a headphone review getting as much column inches as their usual loudspeaker reviews. A growing trend methinks.
  2. Bizarre sense of timing to review a model that's years old, when the new flagship is just around the corner.
  3. He reckoned the Stax's superiority over loudspeakers was highest with large scale, like big orchestra, and least with small scale, like "girl with guitar". I've always felt the opposite, but it's an interesting perspective.


----------



## bobkatz

New flagship? What new flagship Stax? I just paid $2200 for these sr007 mk2s! Long live the Stax Omega MkIIs. I can sit for hours listening to these. In my opinion Only the highest end full range speakers in the best treated room can beat the experience of these Stax.


----------



## TheAttorney

For the flagship-with-no-name-but-let's-call-it-O3-for-convenience, there's a number of references. Try
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/520391/tokyo-fall-2010-headphone-festival
   
  If you've just bought an O2, then don't worry. Depending on how extreme the speculator, the O3 is going to be massively more expensive.
  And the current model doesn't suddenly sound bad when a new one comes along.


----------



## bobkatz

spritzer said:


> Your post made me reach for the SR-007's and fire up the BHSE.







And how's the bass, Spritz? How does it compare with a KGSS? Do you agree there's no dynamic headphone with bass to match the Stax Omega II? The analogy I give to someone who's never heard them: "This is what a bass drum sounds and feels like on the Sennheiser 650s (I flab the palm of my hand on his chest). "This is what a bass drum sounds like on the Stax (I hit him in the chest with my fist). It gets the point across

Which brings up the whole issue of how to handle sub-bass response accurately in headphones. My reference mastering room includes accurate JL subwoofers which actually can flap your pants legs with the low bass (to say nothing of how it feels in your chest). Obviously there's no headphone that can replicate that experience. However, the O2s have such extended sub bass that you can feel it in your eardrum and perhaps in the bones of your head as an impact. At first it's an eerie experience to feel clean, impacting, low distortion sub bass where no previous headphone you've ever heard was able to do it. But you quickly get used to it, and with some willfull suspension of disbelief, mentally supply the missing chest sensations. I know this sounds too much like imagination gone wild, but you have to experience rock and roll or fusion jazz (think Anthony Jackson or Marcus Miller) reproduced on O2s yourself to understand the literal physical (not just acoustic) sensations these phones can produce. Wimpy headphone amps need not apply. I'm very glad I rebuilt, recapped and minified an ancient Stax amp before I got these O2s! Just how much better is the KGSS going to sound?


----------



## Fickle-Friend

Hi are stax that much more better than say Grados and Solid State headphone amps for me to warrant a purchase of the high end ones with a KGSS?


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> and have had they AKG 800 here (which I do not like, it's got a very fake Hf rise) and there's no comparison.


 

 AKG 800? What ? Did AKG came up with their new flagship ? Or they just acquire Sennheiser ? Or merged ?


----------



## silverlight

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> And how's the bass, Spritz? How does it compare with a KGSS? Do you agree there's no dynamic headphone with bass to match the Stax Omega II? The analogy I give to someone who's never heard them: "This is what a bass drum sounds and feels like on the Sennheiser 650s (I flab the palm of my hand on his chest). "This is what a bass drum sounds like on the Stax (I hit him in the chest with my fist). It gets the point acrossWhich brings up the whole issue of how to handle sub-bass response accurately in headphones. My reference mastering room includes accurate JL subwoofers which actually can flap your pants legs with the low bass (to say nothing of how it feels in your chest). Obviously there's no headphone that can replicate that experience. However, the O2s have such extended sub bass that you can feel it in your eardrum and perhaps in the bones of your head as an impact. At first it's an eerie experience to feel clean, impacting, low distortion sub bass where no previous headphone you've ever heard was able to do it. But you quickly get used to it, and with some willfull suspension of disbelief, mentally supply the missing chest sensations. I know this sounds too much like imagination gone wild, but you have to experience rock and roll or fusion jazz (think Anthony Jackson or Marcus Miller) reproduced on O2s yourself to understand the literal physical (not just acoustic) sensations these phones can produce. Wimpy headphone amps need not apply. I'm very glad I rebuilt, recapped and minified an ancient Stax amp before I got these O2s! Just how much better is the KGSS going to sound?


 

 Bob - great to see you over here at Head-Fi!  I too LOVE the O2's.  They make comparing setups remarkably quick and easy.  After rotating a few different DAC's I have now permanently pulled my MH LIO-8 (Amarra Model 4 in my case) out of my main speaker system b/c it sounds so good with the O2's.  For fun at some point you should try the O2 Mk 1's.  I purchased both when I first got my electrostatic amp, but settled on the Mk 1's as they fit my head better (softer pads, more room with the band), but the sound is also a little more intoxicating for me (bass is even better; little more integrated sound top to bottom).
  Enjoy the new setup and happy thanksgiving.


----------



## bobkatz

fickle-friend said:


> Hi are stax that much more better than say Grados and Solid State headphone amps for me to warrant a purchase of the high end ones with a KGSS?







To start, Fickle, 
Electrostatic headphones have a far greater purity of tone than dynamics which tend to have significantly more 2nd harmonic distortion. The push-pull Stax approach, combined with an ultra light diaphragm is what does it. With a dynamic you're always pulling the extra weight of a coil and it's assembly. Electrostats are simplicity personified, it's practically a diaphragm suspended in air. 

I recommend you try to get an audition. And if you're going to go "high end" then don't skimp on the amp either. Not being familiar with the current Stax brand line, someone else can speak up about the virtues of a third party amp versus the Stax amps

Regarding the new Stax prototype I can conceive of a Stax that's a bit faster than an O2 as long as the bass is at least as good as the O2's. It'll be interesting to see if it's worth the price. A good analogy would be if you think a $50,000 pair of Wilson loudspeakers is 5 times the value of a $10,000 pair of Revels. If the new Stax cost 50% more than an already-stratosphere-priced O2 very few people will be able to justify the cost. I've been dreaming about owning a pair of Omegas ever since I heard a pair in the late 80s or early 90s, whenever they came out. I could not justify (should we say "rationalize") the purchase until I had some "spare change") 20 years later! It's like buying a Lexus car to me. I couldn't afford one but I want one!


----------



## bobkatz

My intern brought in his top of the line phones which I didn't like. I thought they were akgs and that the number included 800. Could it have been the 1000? Too etched and bright in the high end


----------



## bobkatz

bobkatz said:


> AMy intern brought in his top of the line phones which I didn't l
> 
> ike. I thought they were akgs and that the number included 800. Could it have been the 1000? Too etched and bright in the high end







Ok I stand corrected. It was the sennheiser hd800. I didn't like them at all. Artificially hi fi, and I honestly suspect a high hearing loss for anyone who likes these phones. These are so different from the 600 and 650 you wouldn't believe it's from the same company. If they had taken the 650 and made it a bit faster and more extended it would be an improvement. But instead with the 800 they made a big mistake in my not so humble opinion


----------



## bobkatz

Hi Silverlight. Good to see you. What's your real name? I thoroughly agree that the Metric Halo Dac makes a superb Dac for stax. When I get the KGSS Ill set up a shoot out of the MH against my Benchmark DAC, which I intend to use to drive the O2s in studio A. I've donated my Pro sr5 golds to my mix engineers in my studio B and the DSP eq in the MH is just perfect to libraries its bass response and so the MH has to reside in stu B.


----------



## bobkatz

iPhone typo turned a misspelled "linearize" into "libraries"!!!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> And how's the bass, Spritz? How does it compare with a KGSS? Do you agree there's no dynamic headphone with bass to match the Stax Omega II? The analogy I give to someone who's never heard them: "This is what a bass drum sounds and feels like on the Sennheiser 650s (I flab the palm of my hand on his chest). "This is what a bass drum sounds like on the Stax (I hit him in the chest with my fist). It gets the point acrossWhich brings up the whole issue of how to handle sub-bass response accurately in headphones. My reference mastering room includes accurate JL subwoofers which actually can flap your pants legs with the low bass (to say nothing of how it feels in your chest). Obviously there's no headphone that can replicate that experience. However, the O2s have such extended sub bass that you can feel it in your eardrum and perhaps in the bones of your head as an impact. At first it's an eerie experience to feel clean, impacting, low distortion sub bass where no previous headphone you've ever heard was able to do it. But you quickly get used to it, and with some willfull suspension of disbelief, mentally supply the missing chest sensations. I know this sounds too much like imagination gone wild, but you have to experience rock and roll or fusion jazz (think Anthony Jackson or Marcus Miller) reproduced on O2s yourself to understand the literal physical (not just acoustic) sensations these phones can produce. Wimpy headphone amps need not apply. I'm very glad I rebuilt, recapped and minified an ancient Stax amp before I got these O2s! Just how much better is the KGSS going to sound?


 

 The bass on the Blue Hawaii amps is even more powerful and controlled.  Again even more so with the DIY-T2 as we just keep throwing more standing power at them.  Basically it is a matter of making sure that there will always be more then enough current on hand for any stage, regardless of the impedance presented by the transducers.  On top of that the amp has to swing enough voltage to be just idling at normal levels (but also have a massive amount of headroom) and have a low enough output impedance and a high enough slew rate to make good use of these.  Just look at those massive heatsinks on the T2 and when it is stacked it runs hot enough that people can burn their fingers on the volume knob.    That is just a lot of Class A stages and constant current sources burning off current.  The amp might be the most complex headphone amp ever designed but the signal path is very simple, it's just the stuff supporting it that is so complex. 
   
  As for the KGSS, it is a brilliant design but the reason we are doing a new one, the KGSSHV is to make up for the lack of a CCS in the third stage.  This was due to the lack of good parts at the time of the design and the extra cost of adding those parts.  I love my KGSS but it has been sitting unused and buried under crap for a while now due to surplus of other amps that had to be modified and evaluated.  I did just fire it up though.   
   
  No dynamic can come close to the Stax, even the 1979 SR-Lambda is far better in most aspects then the Sennheiser HD800.  Let alone their very own HE60 which may be 17 years old but still makes the HD800 sound really poor in direct comparison.  When I did that comparison I even dealt the HE60 a crap hand on purpose by using an old Stax SRM-T1 amp which was in dire need of refurbishing and I didn't even bother to bias the tubes.  Still it was way superior to the HD800/SPL Auditor.  I've also recently spent some time with the HD6xx line, Grado RS1, RS2 and HP2 and the AKG K1000, none of them are even close.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> As for the KGSS, it is a brilliant design but the reason we are doing a new one, the KGSSHV is to make up for the lack of a CCS in the third stage.  This was due to the lack of good parts at the time of the design and the extra cost of adding those parts.  I love my KGSS but it has been sitting unused and buried under crap for a while now due to surplus of other amps that had to be modified and evaluated.  I did just fire it up though.


 

 Could a KGSSHV be built without a volume control? All headphone amps are integrated, but with DACs like the Perfect Wave or a traditional linestage in the chain, I'm wondering if they need to be.


----------



## spritzer

The design never incorporates the volume control or assumes that there will be one.  The amp has resistors which set the correct input impedance regardless of whether you have a pot there or not


----------



## silverlight

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> Hi Silverlight. Good to see you. What's your real name? I thoroughly agree that the Metric Halo Dac makes a superb Dac for stax. When I get the KGSS Ill set up a shoot out of the MH against my Benchmark DAC, which I intend to use to drive the O2s in studio A. I've donated my Pro sr5 golds to my mix engineers in my studio B and the DSP eq in the MH is just perfect to libraries its bass response and so the MH has to reside in stu B.


 
  Hey Bob, real name is Geoff btw, we've been in some threads together I think over at Computeraudiophile.  I've spent a lot of time on the source side of the equation and over the past year really enjoyed getting into headphones.  I'm on the waitlist for a BHSE amp and excited to get that (hopefully soon) given the great comments here on the forum.  On the source side was working on trying to get the PS Audio PWD+Bridge to match the Metric Halo (some minor internal tweaks like fuses, changing connectors, quicksilver gold in a few places, EMI/RFI treatments, etc.), and it's very close but personally still prefer the MH (although changing the software filters to the min. phase apodizing filter can soften some otherwise poor recordings to make them more listenable). Both are fantastic and my 2 favorite DAC's right now having gone through a few others in this price range or lower past couple years.  Look forward to hearing more feedback from you on the Stax setup, esp once you get the Headamp unit.  All the best


----------



## bobkatz

Well! Let me know when you're ready to sell your old KGSS


----------



## bobkatz

Is there an apodizing filter plugin for the MH?


----------



## silverlight

Quote: 





bobkatz said:


> Is there an apodizing filter plugin for the MH?


 

 I haven't heard of one yet (only mucking around with an editor like Izotope RX and re-sampling/processing the audio file, which would be a PITA to do although Izotope does have a batch mode - would require finding the right combination of cutoff and steepness settings, etc.).  Worth asking as I know it was discussed a while back when the Meridian CD player first came out with it (followed by PS Audio).


----------



## bobkatz

spritzer said:


> The design never incorporates the volume control or assumes that there will be one.  The amp has resistors which set the correct input impedance regardless of whether you have a pot there or not







Depending on the output noise and efficiency of the DAC you may have to build a fixed attenuator at the input of the amp. The key is that the headphones should be noiseless if the dac is connected and a cd player is connected, in pause and the dac is locked to it. I'm also concerned about the resolution of the volume control technology used inside the DAC. There are a number of technologies (such as MDACs) which sound slightly inferior due to their distorion, adding a bit of a veil to the sound. 

In fact I'll go on record (having perfumed the shootings) as saying that only two volume control topologies are acceptably transparent! My favorite is switched resistor (either relay switched or using a rotary switch). In many cases this can be installed at the input side of the amp. The second topology is a superior PCM dithered attenuator operating in it's optimum range. Its holding point for normal SPL should be no lower than about -10 to -12 dB to keep the PCM resolution higher than the rest of the system resolution and noise. 

A third technology, VCA, is now pretty rare, but the THAT VCAs can sound quite pleasant, not as pure as the first two, but more transparent than MDACs, FET or virtual ground switches and other analog and hybrid technologies, many of which sound quite grainy and not worthy of a high end playback system. 

Find out exactly what volume control technology is used inside your DAC. Don't accept any b.s from the manufacturer that "our implementation is proprietary or better than others". In almost all cases I've discovered that their implementation is sonically compromised and they either built it that way to save money, or were misguided or optimistic. I've NEVER heard a transparent MDAC, no matter whose brand or type of chipset.


----------



## bobkatz

daniel9ds said:


> I am a newbie here and just wanna say Hi to everyone. I am Daniel from Pennsylvania, US.
> 
> 
> 
> ...







Welcome Daniel. Is Photoshop garden your site? So you're a graphic artist who also likes sound!


----------



## bobkatz

I want to say I've been using my iPhone to post lately, and if you're not careful it can make the strangest corrections before you notice it! I typed "shootouts" and it turned it into "shootings"! There---it did it again! Fixed before I hit "submit" this time


----------



## bobkatz

"performed" became "perfumed". Hilarious!


----------



## svyr

ummm, bit much offtop and multiposts?

on a side-note. any-one find SR-507 a bit dark sounding?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





svyr said:


> ummm, bit much offtop and multiposts?
> 
> on a side-note. any-one find SR-507 a bit dark sounding?


 


  I don't through a T1, not bright either. Very neutral.


----------



## svyr

graben said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




too much time with SR-404 and EX700  then.
nomnomnom piano though. probably the most natural I heard from any of my HP. 

Guess I'll find out when DHL deliver my TransistorAmp-V3



> 02.11.10 04:14 Hours Saulheim, DE The international shipment has been processed in the export parcel center
> 26.11.10 10:32 Hours Hamburg, DE The shipment is being transported to the destination country




oh yay, almost a month now (instead of 11 avg, 16 max-ish), no responses to queries why/apologies. f-.-.-.- DHL... at least the status changed.


*edit*
Hmmm I don't think I was wearing the SR-507 correctly. I had the headband too low and it was putting a LOT of pressure on the top of my head/ears. Moving the sliders a bit up fixed the giant headache and partially fixed the 'sound dark' bit... (bear-hug lambdas  )

Also noticed the cup HOLDERs now pivot where they stick to the headband assembly (so now 2 pivots - at headband and and earspeaker-'cups'). Don't think that was the case for SR-404 or previous lambda assemblies


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Wow brand new pads from ebay shipepd fast!  Arrived today and I ordered them early last week, that's basically 6 days total!


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Update on the 001 tips.
   
  They were still sounding dark.  I went back to the stock tips and headband and confirmed the mids were recessed and the highs were rolled off.  Went to my fitting appointment and the audiologist shortened the tips about 1.5mm and flared the ends slightly.  That made a huge difference for the sound and improved the comfort even more.  But, the mids are still recessed and we think we know why, but I'm going to let my congested ears clear before making my final analysis.  However, I'm still going to have them remolded.  I paid $170 for two little pieces of plastic to fit the ends of my 001s, might as well get them perfect.  My audiologist said he felt there was a misunderstanding or assumptions made that caused the tips to look the way they do when mounted on the driver, with the driver flush to the side of my ear instead of being aimed down the ear canal as they do stock.  He felt they did that to hide the tip and make it more stealth.  I told him I don't really care if the whole damn tip is visible, I only care about a solid fit, a comfortable fit, and maintaining the stock sound signature when the driver was positioned correctly.  I really have no plans to wear these out in public per say.  The bend and the reduced ID kill the highs and recess the mids.  We're going to manipulate and use clay to reposition the driver where it should be in relation to my tips and have Starkey make the tip ID oval to match the Stax driver.  But the great part is that they can rescan my modded tips to get the new length of the inner ear section correct from the factory, so they will be the 1.5mm shorter from the start, and they can also shift the ID opening a bit in the tip as the right side was off by 2mm compared to the left.  Then the new tips get scanned again and stored at Starkey, so if I break, wear out, or lose a tip, they can run either one individually or as a set. 
   
  So, I'm really glad I decided to pull the trigger and try it. I know we'll get the sound correct on the second attempt since we can mod them slightly in house if the sound is off a little again.  The improvement in comfort and the secure fit is just simply awesome.  I'll find out the material mine are made from.  I can highly recommend it.  It's very hard when you first go to insert them and they are cold.  This makes it much easier to put them in.  When they warm up the are much, much softer and they expand to seal off the ear canal.  They do not really add any isolation because the driver is open and the sound comes through, or leaks out, but for me that is a good thing.  Too much isolation or more closed sounding cups really compress the sound stage for me and the air is gone.  These tips keep that same air and nice soundstage of the stock setup.  Now I really can't wait to get the remolds back, upgrade to the new 003s when they are finally hitting the streets, and get my magnum opus 'stat amp built for them.  
   
  I guess the best praise I can write is that these tips have shown me enough potential to deliver everything I wanted in the 001s such that I'm ready to mod my little amp and I've decided to hold off on LCD-2s. I don't have the gear lust for the LCD-2s now that I had even two months ago. I still love the sound of the LCD-2s, but the lust to own a set has dwindled significantly now. I just wish the iPhone 4 was a better source for the 001 amp. It runs out of oomph and I have to have the iPhone up to one click off full volume and the 001 amp is easily 70-85% of full rotation for normal enjoyable levels or listening. My Sony DAP does better at 55%-70%, but the Denon CDP straight into the 001 achieved acceptable levels of loud at 30%-50% of the range on the attenuator. So I think a Music Streamer II + or Pro will have to find it's way into my travel bag and I'll just buy a little Pelican case to hold everything in one waterproof, impact resistant box.


----------



## Region2

Thanks for the update, BoilermakerFan!  I'm still interested in these tips.  Glad to hear there's a bit of progress but still seems there's a bit more problems to cover.
   
  Personally I would wear these SR001, just probably cover it with some headphones for added isolation, I like them that much.  I just want to get another amp to take apart, do some of the mods and restuff into a better case before I carry this around.
   
  I have had the same thing in regards to the LCD2 lust.  The recent acquisition of SRXmk3 Pro and the SR001 have definitely helped calm down my lust for a pair of LCD2.  If the comfort were improved without dropping the quality of the sound, I'd have hard time taking them out of my ears.


----------



## svyr

Anyone have a spare post 1994 Lambda arc (headband + arc assembly) I can buy (in good condition)? So either Nova series or 2/3/40x series? 
Broken/burned drivers, snapped cords, cat ate the cable, don't care, just want the arc .

Giant SR-507 headache is not making me like the new headband. At all. 

PM me a pic/offer with shipping to Melbourne/Australia.

p.s. spritzer, thanks for clarifying the suitable arcs.


----------



## graben

You could always sell your 507 and get a 407. Old arc and new driver. Win win for you.


----------



## svyr

graben said:


> You could always sell your 507 and get a 407. Old arc and new driver. Win win for you.




that's my second option. I like this driver so far. I don't know if SR-407 has the same driver or not though. (same driver mount/holder and baffle, but not = same driver ... my mistake in the review there). 

on the other hand, you do say SR-407 sounded more or less the same as 507... or what was the exact wording? 



> Originally Posted by
> *graben*
> 
> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...





hmmmm maybe not exactly the same driver or sound then. long story short - I'd rather get an old arc for now. 

someone's gotta have one from fubar 2/3/40x series or nova that they've been meaning to get rid of.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Anyone have a spare post 1994 Lambda arc (headband + arc assembly) I can buy (in good condition)? So either Nova series or 2/3/40x series?
> Broken/burned drivers, snapped cords, cat ate the cable, don't care, just want the arc
> 
> 
> ...


 

 PM on it's way.


----------



## kiteki

Replies: 14586
   
   
  Wow!


----------



## tnili

How comfortable are the Stax 404?  Here are the headphones that I have owned listed from most comfortable to least:
   
  HD-595
  HD-650
  AH-D2000
  Beyer DT880
  AKG 701
   
  I currently own the 595 and 650.  The others were sold or returned due to their sound or comfort issues.  I am contemplating getting into the Stax world with a WEE and my HK receiver.  If I like the results, I can upgrade my receiver or buy a dedicated headphone amp.  But if my introductory headphones are not comfortable, it won't matter in the end.


----------



## edstrelow

I would say very comfortable.  They have very large earpads so the phones do not press too hard. Total weight minus cord is 300-400 gm.  They have recently been replaced by the 407 and a 507 which by accounts to date seem to be an improvement sonically.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





tnili said:


> How comfortable are the Stax 404?  Here are the headphones that I have owned listed from most comfortable to least:
> 
> HD-595
> HD-650
> ...


 
  Personally, I would skip the WEE.  It uses very cheap jacks that aren't quite to the Stax size, but close enough.  Both jacks are Pro bias only yet the center pin is not plugged so a Normal bias headphone could be plugged in on accident.  You can buy a SRD7 for far less money used and mod it to be much better performer than the WEE.  If you aren't up to the mods, there are a few peeps around and in this thread who can easily do that for you. 
   
  I had K601s and K401s and thought they were very comfortable.  I sold my K401s because my SR-Lambdas had a similar sound sig with more extended highs and the speed of a 'stat is just addicting.  The Lambdas are just a little heavier than the K401s, but the headband has a better fit so they stay in position better and feel lighter on the ears since they don't droop.


----------



## Michgelsen

They are very comfortable, but a bit loose on your head. The HD650 has a way firmer fit in comparison. Weight feels about the same to me, from memory.
   
   


  Quote: 





kiteki said:


> Replies: 14586
> 
> 
> Wow!


 
  ... of which at least 1 now is most certainly completely useless.


----------



## almuzzi

hey guys, i kinda have a problem. i turned on my t1s this morning and a flash appeared below the unit.  opened it up and looked inside but no burned parts...
   
  thing is, the right channel is  now really soft and distorts horribly if i turn it up. anyone know the possible cause?
   
  i ran the amp and looked at the insides, no spark gaps visible. is it a blown cap?


----------



## svyr

almuzzi said:


> hey guys, i kinda have a problem. i turned on my t1s this morning and a flash appeared below the unit.  opened it up and looked inside but no burned parts...
> 
> thing is, the right channel is  now really soft and distorts horribly if i turn it up. anyone know the possible cause?
> 
> i ran the amp and looked at the insides, no spark gaps visible. is it a blown cap?




does it happen to have two tubes?
...say, one per channel?


----------



## spritzer

You have to check underneath the PCB as that's where most of the resistors are.  First one to check is R20 as that is the tube cathode resistor.  If that is blown then the tube is fubar and the offset pot might also be toast. 
   
  Edit:  The resistors are marked on top of the PCB even though they are mounted on the bottom.  Also, don't use the amp like this!!!!!


----------



## almuzzi

Quote: 





> You have to check underneath the PCB as that's where most of the resistors are.  First one to check is R20 as that is the tube cathode resistor.  If that is blown then the tube is fubar and the offset pot might also be toast.


 
    
  R20 looks to be ok on both sides...by ok i mean its not black or anything, looks fine. the offset pots also look ok. i dont think the tube is fubar as i changed the tubes and the 2nd one still had the same problem.
   
   
  Quote:


> Edit:  The resistors are marked on top of the PCB even though they are mounted on the bottom.  Also, don't use the amp like this!!!!!


 
  ah yes i stopped using the amp when i heard the distortion!


----------



## ZarakiSan

Crosspost, but this thread is very much more active than anything else here:
   
  Since I want to purchase either a SRS-2050 or SRS-2170 set, what are the full electrical specifications of the adaptor required? That's the adaptor for the SRM-252 (A or S)


----------



## spritzer

Do any of the resistors look discolored?  It's a bit hard to see with those SMD units.  Also look at the large plate resistors and if any of the capacitors are disfigured in any way.


----------



## spritzer

The adapter is 12V/500mA with the center pin negative.


----------



## ZarakiSan

Thanks very much. Do you also happen to know the dimensions of the plug?


----------



## svyr

zarakisan said:


> Thanks very much. Do you also happen to know the dimensions of the plug?




lol. please use search.

http://www.head-fi.org/search.php?search=srm252+power 
http://www.head-fi.org/search.php?search=srm-252a+power

(the first found article would've had all the info incl plug dimensions and v/a rating) hmmm or not . anyway - http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/441597/stax-basic-system-power-adaptor-eu#post_6039749



> Do any of the resistors look discolored? It's a bit hard to see with those SMD units. Also look at the large plate resistors and if any of the capacitors are disfigured in any way.




maybe get him to measure it in the circuit for the approx value with a multimeter? (or SMD as in the really tiny ones?)


----------



## almuzzi

yeah i checked all the resistors, the big blue ones and the small  smd ones. none of them look discolored in any way(besides dust i think).  not sure about the caps though, the smaller ones look ok. could it be some sort of  spark gap formed between traces?


----------



## spritzer

A piece of debris (dust, hair etc.) can form a pathway and short circuit the amp.


----------



## MrGreen

Hello, I wonder if anyone would like to provide some insight onto what Stax they like for things like Ambient music and Goa? I've heard the O2s and the Lambda Sig. I loved the O2s bass, but found the tone a little smooth. The lambda sig was great but I am having a little trouble tracking down a pair at the moment. Does anyone in this thread listen to this type of music? If so, do you have a personal favourite from the stax lineup for them?
   
  I've PM'd a few users for feedback, but figure I might as well post here.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Hello, I wonder if anyone would like to provide some insight onto what Stax they like for things like Ambient music and Goa? I've heard the O2s and the Lambda Sig. *I loved the O2s bass, but found the tone a little smooth*. The lambda sig was great but I am having a little trouble tracking down a pair at the moment. Does anyone in this thread listen to this type of music? If so, do you have a personal favourite from the stax lineup for them?
> 
> I've PM'd a few users for feedback, but figure I might as well post here.


 
 
   
  If you're looking for that kind of visceral impact, I think the Stax is not for you. They do make this up with their delicate fidelity though.​


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 In my opinion the bass impact from Stax headphones is quite satisfactory.
   
  @Mr Green: I may have mentioned this in my PMs, but most Stax headphones are great. You've only been looking for less than a week so if you're keen on a pair of Lambda Sigs dont give up; they pop up all the time on places like yahoo Japan, ebay, etc. Just keep lurking and you'll find them for sale.


----------



## MrGreen

> If you're looking for that kind of visceral impact, I think the Stax is not for you. They do make this up with their delicate fidelity though.​


 


  I'm not looking for visceral impact at all. In fact, the rather poor impact (IMO) of the Omega is preferable, however I do not like the darkness. I also found the Lambda Sigs bass very good and impactful.
   
  For some perspective, I'm coming here with a long-time love for Etymotic canalphones - which have virtually zero impact. For some other perspective - I hate the tonal presentation of say, HD650 and LCD-2. I don't mind the O2s, but would prefer more treble (like the sig).
   
  Just curious if theres anything else I should be looking at (like a 202).
   
   
  @jjinh, indeed. I am still looking for a pair of sigs (SR202 as well).


----------



## Mr.Sneis

What's powering the omegas?  I think I said something similar when I heard the o2 for the first time out of a stock 717.
   
  I gave them another shot with a kgss and it made a huge difference in terms of being "dark" and a little smooth.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> What's powering the omegas?  I think I said something similar when I heard the o2 for the first time out of a stock 717.
> 
> I gave them another shot with a kgss and it made a huge difference in terms of being "dark" and a little smooth.S


 
   
   
   
  Some guys DIY amp. I think it was called a HiAmp. IMO the headphone was merely smooth as well, however I'm personally not looking for a smooth headphone.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Wish I had more experiences for you, but all I can say is that what you describe really sounds like me only a few months ago.  I'm not of that same mindset anymore though!!  If by smooth you mean that I can listen without fatigue yet still have the ability to really focus on the music and ridiculous amount of detail then I'm all for it.
   
  I have not heard any other staxes sadly but I believe most of them have easier amping requirements than the omegas.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





			
				Mr.Sneis said:
			
		

> Wish I had more experiences for you, but all I can say is that what you describe really sounds like me only a few months ago.  I'm not of that same mindset anymore though!!  If by smooth you mean that I can listen without fatigue yet still have the ability to really focus on the music and ridiculous amount of detail then I'm all for it.
> 
> I have not heard any other staxes sadly but I believe most of them have easier amping requirements than the omegas.


 
  /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 More or less. Personally, I have no problem with bright headphones. I actually prefer them (I preferred the lambda sig to the O2 in my brief encounter despite some lower refinement because of the frequency response).
   
  For the record, I'm also interested in seeing what sigma pros are like for these genres, but have no way to actually experience them. Are there any users around?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *MrGreen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I'm not looking for visceral impact at all. In fact, the rather poor impact (IMO) of the Omega is preferable, however I do not like the darkness. I also found the Lambda Sigs bass very good and impactful.
> 
> ...


 
   
  The Omegas have relatively less bass impact compared to the Lambda Sigs? That 's an odd impression to me... from my experience the SR-007s have substantial and more than sufficient weight to its bass, especially compared to the lambdas.
   
  Were you wearing the SR-007s properly? (Serious question. The SR-007s are not bass light headphones).


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> More or less. Personally, I have no problem with bright headphones. I actually prefer them (I preferred the lambda sig to the O2 in my brief encounter despite some lower refinement because of the frequency response).
> For the record, I'm also interested in seeing what sigma pros are like for these genres, but have no way to actually experience them. Are there any users around?


 
  Mr Green, if you like bright phones, you aren't gonna like the Sigma series. The very antithesis of bright, they are if anything ranging from reasonably dull (the Sigma) to just right (the Sigma/404), with the Sigma Pro somewhere in between. I would certainly suggest hearing before buying with these. OTOH, if you like a phone that seems to be fatigue free without any dullness, try a Sigma/404.
  A SR-007 without less bass impact than a Lambda series phone is an underpowered phone. The Lambdas are far easier to drive.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Good to know regarding the sigma I saw the frequency repsonse and thought it would not be for me - but I wasn't sure as to whether the bass hump (and lack of treble relative to mids) didn't have more to do with frequency response changing because of the particular design. Interesting, since I preferred the relative lack of impact that the O2 was giving. It doesn't necessarily shock me that they were under powered.
  
   
  Quote: 





> Quote:Originally Posted by *jjinh*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes. I do not think they were bass light. I think that they were essentially neutral (save for some smoothing in the treble). The impact/slam/whatever you want to call it, was lower than the lambdas.
   
  Call it underpowered, or whatever. I actually liked it (but the price is a little steep for me to just "make do" with the treble).


----------



## DavidMahler

I probably would find it if I searched through this thread, but is there any final word on the release date, exact price in USD and official name of the new flagship?


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> A SR-007 without less bass impact than a Lambda series phone is an underpowered phone. The Lambdas are far easier to drive.


 

 I don't know, the SR-007 delivers much more deep bass than the LNS out of my cheap 212 amp.


----------



## spritzer

If you are ever getting more bass out of a Lambda then the SR-007 then something is very wrong.  Even with the small "Basic" amps there is far more bass.  
   
  As for your question about the 507, it is the most refined Lambda so I wouldn't recommend it for you.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If you are ever getting more bass out of a Lambda then the SR-007 then something is very wrong.  Even with the small "Basic" amps there is far more bass.
> 
> As for your question about the 507, it is the most refined Lambda so I wouldn't recommend it for you.


 


  Well, it's been a few days since I heard it, but anyway.
   
  I'm a fan of refinement. I've read comments about the 507 being darker than other lambdas, however. Is this true?
   
  Edit: Disregard that. I'll keep holding out for a sig. I have an appointment with a local head-fier who owns an SR-507 in January when he gets back. I'll make up my own mind
   
  Are there any frequency response measurements around like there are for most of the stax series?


----------



## K3cT

Indeed. I think the first thing I've noticed when I tried the O2 out of the KGSS was "wow, this thing seriously packs a wallop in the bass region". It makes the 404LE sounds thin and dry if you compare it side-by-side. 
   
  I seriously doubt that any Lambda is going to be dark-sounding though because all the Lambdas that I've tried (SR-Lambda, 202, 404 Sig and 404LE) are all neutral-to-the-bright side, airy, and forward-sounding.


----------



## DavidMahler

Does anyone prefer the KGSS over the BHSE?


----------



## transient orca

Stax finally updated their website.
  http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/ExportProducts.html


----------



## vcoheda

i owned a KGSS for a while and heard the KGSS against the BHSE more than once and they are not even close. the O2 sounds fair to good with the KGSS but sounds amazing with the BHSE. the price difference between the two is great but so is the sound.


----------



## les_garten

That site is soooo 1998...
   
  As well as being an upgrade...
   
   
  Quote: 





transient orca said:


> Stax finally updated their website.
> http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/ExportProducts.html


----------



## bobkatz

Quote: 





davidmahler said:


> Does anyone prefer the KGSS over the BHSE?


 


  Sure, anyone who can't afford to have both for a fair comparison. Anyone who's had the two side by side, done matched gain comparisons with a voltmeter to match the output levels, please report here!


----------



## spritzer

I've compared the BHSE (and a few other Blue Hawaii versions) against the KGSS (my build but using the Headamp boards) off the same source many times.  The gain of these amps is identical but the difference is pretty dramatic.


----------



## EddieE

Having been blown away by the Stax on display at the recent London meet it was inevitable I joined the club. Managed to pick up the SR303 for a fair price on ebay and although the amp it came with is very beginner (SRM-XH) and the source nothing high-end (FiiO E16 lineout) they still sound utterly wonderful and not actually monumentally worse than when powered through the impressive tube amp at the meet as I'd feared they would (probably would be a different matter in direct comparison I'm sure).
   
  Am drifting off into Tinariwen's Imidiwan with them as I type...
   
  This design fits my head really well and comfort in general is great but after a few albums though the foam touching my ears is starting to irritate a little- is there some mod to fix this or is it something your ears just get used to?


----------



## Mr.Sneis

But I _really like_ the kgss   If I hear the bhse that just may be the end of it.


----------



## n3rdling

It usually is


----------



## DaveN

Just found this thread. I am readying a plunge into Stax/Smyth Realiser. My biggest concern as a non-headphone guy is the comfort level of the Stax for 2-3 hour movie sessions. There are no dealers anywhere around so I am going on reviews and forum posts.
     
  My thoughts on Stax model have evolved to the SRM-323S amp and a pair of 407 headphones. Realizing that the system would not be optimized for both of us, the dual output would allow my wife and me to watch something via 2 heaphones. It would be ideal if Smyth develops the software upgrade to allow 2 users as buying two Realisers is cost prohibitive. The higher output of the 323s also appears to be a plus over the base or tube based models. The only negative is the lack of balanced inputs.
   
  What advice do folks have about this choice of amp/cans? Sweet spot in Stax's line or should I be looking at other models?Are these truly comfortable to the non-headphone addict?


----------



## graben

The 407 are the bang for buck Stax right now. The 323 sounds nice but the 007t or 006t can drive two lambdas just fine at the same time as well.
  Quote: 





daven said:


> Just found this thread. I am readying a plunge into Stax/Smyth Realiser. My biggest concern as a non-headphone guy is the comfort level of the Stax for 2-3 hour movie sessions. There are no dealers anywhere around so I am going on reviews and forum posts.
> 
> My thoughts on Stax model have evolved to the SRM-323S amp and a pair of 407 headphones. Realizing that the system would not be optimized for both of us, the dual output would allow my wife and me to watch something via 2 heaphones. It would be ideal if Smyth develops the software upgrade to allow 2 users as buying two Realisers is cost prohibitive. The higher output of the 323s also appears to be a plus over the base or tube based models. The only negative is the lack of balanced inputs.
> 
> What advice do folks have about this choice of amp/cans? Sweet spot in Stax's line or should I be looking at other models?Are these truly comfortable to the non-headphone addict?


----------



## The Monkey

I haven't tried the 407, but have used a bunch of other Lambdas.  I think they're among the most comfortable cans I've used, so a 2-3 hour movie session should be fine.


----------



## EddieE

Lambdas are very comfortable, I should point our re. my previous comment that my ears stick out more than the average person's. I've found a pretty simple and effective solution: I also have long hair, so I just pull some out of the hairband and put it over the outer edges of my ears. Can listen for an unlimited amount of time now with no discomfort.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





daven said:


> Just found this thread. I am readying a plunge into Stax/Smyth Realiser. My biggest concern as a non-headphone guy is the comfort level of the Stax for 2-3 hour movie sessions. There are no dealers anywhere around so I am going on reviews and forum posts


 

  
  IMO the lambda rivals (maybe even beats) the AD900 for "barely there" feel. You won't even notice it (if your head is like mine). This was a lambda signature which iirc used the older arc assembly


----------



## Beefy

I actually prefer the fit/feel of the Lambda and HD650 to my AD900, due to the ole wingnuts _just_ touching the pads. Phatpad mod does help though.
  
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> IMO the lambda rivals (maybe even beats) the AD900 for "barely there" feel. You won't even notice it (if your head is like mine). This was a lambda signature which iirc used the older arc assembly


----------



## al0is

Hello,
   
  I'm sorry if my post is not in the good topic.
  I bought an SRM-T1S in Japan, now I want to sell it so I'd like to know how to change input voltage.
  It's written "100V only", I can't find any voltage selector, is it possible to change input voltage?
   
  Some pictures :
   
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alois9/sets/72157625455844195/with/5253564515/
   
  Thanks


----------



## spritzer

The switch is there, you just have to remove the bottom panel to see it.


----------



## al0is

Thank you very much !!!


----------



## Amarphael

Hey Sprtizer, Incidentally i'm also dealing with voltage conversion, mine is a SRM-717 which i want to change from 120 to 230V. I've stumbled upon your post from this thread:
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's the fuse board and here is the code to change it:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 

 I've removed the PCB board, the windings are apperantly intact and so i just removed the metal rod from the fuse board at spot 4 and changed from 6 to 5. Is this all right, Anything else that should be done?
   
  Pardon the horrible quality, My Nokia 6120 is all i have atm:


----------



## spritzer

If the amp was setup for 120V then the windings are intact, otherwise the amp wouldn't work.  The changes you did are correct.


----------



## EddieE

[size=x-small]Hi, has anyone here tried leather 404LE/507 leather pads on a pleather pad lambda model? Any sonic differences negative or positive? If its just an increase in comfort/appearance I'm going to go for a swap I think. I need new pads anyway as I think the foam under mine has started to degrade a little and they are peeling off a little too.[/size]


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> [size=x-small]Hi, has anyone here tried leather 404LE/507 leather pads on a pleather pad lambda model? Any sonic differences negative or positive? If its just an increase in comfort/appearance I'm going to go for a swap I think. I need new pads anyway as I think the foam under mine has started to degrade a little and they are peeling off a little too.[/size]


 

 Someone tried the 404LE pads on the 202
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/13065#post_6565810


----------



## EddieE

[size=x-small]Thanks Mobbadict, I did do a search but didn't manage to find that. Sounds promising I think I will order a pair after christmas. As far as I can tell the pads for 404LE and 507 are the same - the shop I have found selling them described them as replacement pads for both anyway.[/size]


----------



## ktm

I've got the leather pads on my sr202. Seems like the bass improved slightly. The pads are a bit thinner
  and also are more comfortable to use in a warm location(Texas).


----------



## EddieE

Sounds pretty logical. If the pads are thinner the ears are closer to the drivers and hence bass will be greater.
   
  I have the old style of pads with the foam so I guess going to the new leather ones will bring the cloth. From what I'm reading that perhaps brings a greater change the the pads themselves.
   
  Will have to wait and see...


----------



## jcx

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> Sounds pretty logical. If the pads are thinner the ears are closer to the drivers and hence bass will be greater...


 
  bass wavelengthts are many ft - you are in extreme near field - the low frequency sound pressure is extremely uniform inside the ear cups and should be completely position independent
   
  what can change bass is leakage in the pad/head sealing, large changes in the earcup air volume could also change the bass level but 10-20% wouldn't be expected to be audible
   
  bass perception could also be changed by ear/driver relative position changing high frequency levels if your (much higher frequency) "perceptual anchor" frequency for loundness changes level with position


----------



## EddieE

That went largely over my head... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
   
  But I think I get the general gist of it - when with some headphones like Grados where it seems the pad that has your ear closest to the driver has the most bass - it is actually not the distance itself but the leakage that causes that?
   
  So with pleather pads which don't let air through, it should make no difference what distance from the ear the driver is?
   
  Quote:



jcx said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## IPodPJ

I haven't checked this thread in awhile and was just wondering if there were any new updates with regards to the C32 -- particularly any early reviews, official release date and final U.S. price.


----------



## eggontoast

I am currently looking at purchasing some new headphones. The Stax 2050II basic package is on the list of potentials. What is the general opinion of this set up (SR-202 & SRM252II) is it any good or would my money be better spent on some second hand Stax which are further up the tree ?


----------



## MrGreen

Anyone know the going rates of the diffuse field equalisers such as ED-1 and ED Signature?
   
  Any computer-as-source users wish to comment on the difference between a software EQ with the same curve and these?


----------



## DC5Zilla

I'm very interested on the SR-507 and would like to know how things changed between the 404.
   
  I was really impressed with SQ and comfort (probably the best comfort I've ever got from headphone, better than HD800 and GS1000i) of SR-404 but I was very disappointed about the build quality.
  It felt very plastic-ish and flimsy which screamed "cheap heaphone" IMHO.  Don't get me wrong, I still loved it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  so, hows the SR-507 compared to SR-404 in terms of build quality?  I've heard that they now use real leather pads but how about the shell?  is it still the same old flimsy plastics? I will appreciate any kind of information!  Help me get into the world of "STAX"


----------



## n3rdling

The plastic is quite strong and those Lambdas should outlast all your other headphones.


----------



## edstrelow

I have had Lambdas and Sigmas for over 25 years and have never had a break of the earcups.   However I have had to replace 2 of the U-shaped holders that attach the cups to the arc assembly, one in a Nova Classic and one in a 404. Metal might have been better employed here, as it was in the Sigmas.  Still not a bad record.
   
  The plastic is evidently stronger than might one might expect from its appearance.  Possibly people are thrown by the lightness of these phones.  That is presumably done to keep them wearable.

 From the looks of it it is going to take some work convert a Sigma to a Sigma/507/407 since you can't simply glue the driver unit as is to the existing Sigma baffle as you could with the Sigma/404.   If I understand the construction the parts of the driver are fastened together as they are screwed into a specially-made cradle on the 507 baffle. Possibly you could replace the Sigma baffle with the 507 baffle  after some drilling and filing.
   
  I wonder who will be the first to try such a conversion.?
   
  I find my Sigma/404 to be a contender to the 007A.  Compared to the 007A, it lacks deep bass and detail but it is superior in spatial imaging .  The prospect of a  Super-Sigma is very enticing.


----------



## svyr

dc5zilla said:


> I'm very interested on the SR-507 and would like to know how things changed between the 404.
> 
> I was really impressed with SQ and comfort (probably the best comfort I've ever got from headphone, better than HD800 and GS1000i) of SR-404 but I was very disappointed about the build quality.
> It felt very plastic-ish and flimsy which screamed "cheap heaphone" IMHO.  Don't get me wrong, I still loved it
> ...




I found the comfort on the new arc appalling - the pressure on the top of my ears was too much, so after 1h of wear I had to take them off with a headache. That said, the new arc is a lot sturdier and doesn't creak if you move your head, jaw, etc.

Bought a nova arc (should be very similar to 404), and it's better comfort wise, but creaks. 

My old SR-404 felt far more comfortable than the SR-507 arc but also creaked.


----------



## chi2

Silicone spray is your friend.
   
  Quote: 





svyr said:


> Bought a nova arc (should be very similar to 404), and it's better comfort wise, but creaks. My old SR-404 felt far more comfortable than the SR-507 arc but also creaked.


----------



## svyr

chi2 said:


> Silicone spray is your friend.




ah. sounds like a plan. Any recommended brands  ? heh. wish it was stax's friend though. $30 or more I'm guessing?

would also be nice to know which parts to spray... can't seem to figure out what's making the cracking sound


----------



## DaveN

Does anyone know the input sensitivity of Stax amps, especially the 323S? My processor has adjustable output sensitivity settings in volts and I need to find the optimal setting. My regular amp takes 1.25vrms for full rated power output.


----------



## Michgelsen

The specifications of the 323S are on the website: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRM323S-e.html


----------



## svyr

michgelsen said:


> The specifications of the 323S are on the website: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRM323S-e.html




wow...same gain as SRM-1/mk2, but higher max output voltage: 400V (vs 370v)
Impressive. 



> not only for musical reproduction but also for monitoring purpose of professional use.




Probably the same kind of sound as SRM-1 as well ?


----------



## spritzer

The 323 shares some of the basic circuitry as the SRM-1 Mk2 the latter stages are very much improved so it is very much superior.


----------



## DavidMahler

Is the SRM 007 Tii a good amp for the Omega 2?


----------



## Michgelsen

The consensus (I have not heard it) is that it does not have enough power to drive the O2 adequately, though some people still like the combination.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





davidmahler said:


> Is the SRM 007 Tii a good amp for the Omega 2?


 

 The problem with any of the tube amps currently made by Stax is that there just isn't enough voltage swing to really get the Omega 2s humming. Of all the Stax amps produced (short of the legendary T2), most will likely agree that the SRM-717 is the best partner for the Omega 2. For the amount that the 007-TII sells for, you're probably better off with a KGSS.


----------



## Amarphael

We've been moved to main forum it appears... Stax for the masses eh? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Speaking about SRM-717 prefomance, I'm finding the O2mk2's sound fall short of my exptectaions. to put it blandly, lower-deep bass is just almost non-exsitent to my ears, i'm just dumbfound when i hear my refernce track "Marakesh" by Peace Orchestra, there's a section with some massive deep bass beat but it's barely audible and lacks any notable impact. Mid-bass is quite present but is not very tight and defined as i would like. My W5000, and previously HD800 even morse,  have much better low end presence, the control and impact of the mk2 bass are simply subpar as i hear it currently. OTOH the clarity and imaging are amazing and make the O2's project likley the most convincing soundscape i've yet to "see" with headphones.
   
  The amp is hooked single-ended atm, I can purchase a proprietry adapter to convert my DAC (CIaudio VDA-2) to balanced, Will doing so bring noticeable improvement to the low-end department?


----------



## DaveBSC

I should add that another option is to use a transformer like the WEE instead of a traditional amp. This is by far the most affordable way to drive the O2 if you already have an excellent preamp and speaker amp, and supposedly is at least on par with the KGSS. I'm planning to find out myself if that's true.


----------



## WilCox

Just noticed that this thread was moved from the _High-end Audio Forum _to the_ Headphones (full-size) Forum_.  What's the rational for the move?  I'm sure my SR-007s haven't gone mid-fi overnight.


----------



## n3rdling

No wonder I couldn't find the thread.  The bad thing about the move is that now we have to wade through all the bad threads in this subforum; the good thing about the move is maybe Stax will get more exposure.  Actually, not sure we want that. 
   
  The WEE must have some magical transformers to "at least" compete with the KGSS.  I've never heard a transformer based Stax rig that sounded as good as one with a dedicated Stax amp.  I'd take the lowly SRM-1 MKII over them.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The WEE must have some magical transformers to "at least" compete with the KGSS.  I've never heard a transformer based Stax rig that sounded as good as one with a dedicated Stax amp.  I'd take the lowly SRM-1 MKII over them.


 

 What transformers have you heard, driven by what amps? The WEE seems to be a huge improvement over any of the Stax made transformers, if not necessarily up there with the best custom stuff. With solid amplification, several people have reported excellent results with the WEE, even driving the Jade or O2. Obviously I wouldn't expect to get very far with a $50 T-amp, but a WEE driven by a Bryston, C-J, Ayre, etc. should knock an SRM-323 into next week.


----------



## pomme de terre

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> No wonder I couldn't find the thread.  The bad thing about the move is that now we have to wade through all the bad threads in this subforum


 

  Yes, can someone please move it back. It's quite annoying having to sift through thirty "what should I buy" threads


----------



## MrGreen

If you subscribe to the thread (does it automatically when you post now), just go to home and it'll tell you?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





pomme de terre said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 Indeed!  I have complained directly to Jude about this and suggest you do the same.  If Stax isn't high-end then no headphones are.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The Stax transformers, namely SRD6/SRD7/SRDP.  Amps I've heard were a cheap Chinese speaker amp, a Bedini 25/25, an AudioNote amp (can't remember the model), and the Bottlehead Crack.  There is a lack of detail and exagerrated dynamics (almost a boominess) that is portrayed regardless of the power amp driving the transformer...might as well go for dynamic HPs in that case.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The Stax transformers, namely SRD6/SRD7/SRDP.  Amps I've heard were a cheap Chinese speaker amp, a Bedini 25/25, an AudioNote amp (can't remember the model), and the Bottlehead Crack.  There is a lack of detail and exagerrated dynamics (almost a boominess) that is portrayed regardless of the power amp driving the transformer...might as well go for dynamic HPs in that case.


 

 Yeah those are hardly the pinnacle of transformers. Several people who have had the WEE in their systems or heard it have reported that its performance really scales with the quality of the amp behind it. Obviously it would be silly to drop $5,000 on a Pass XA30.5 to drive a transformer - just buy a BHSE. A $1,000 Aleph 30 though could be a viable KGSS alternative. That's what I aim to find out.


----------



## n3rdling

I've been following the WEE threads and it seems most of the early adopters don't have much experience with stats and different Stax gear so I skip their posts.  spritzer (who probably has the most experience in this area of anybody on the forums) has built transformer boxes with some high quality transformers and IIRC said that they are still the bottleneck and didn't like them as much as his dedicated amps.  I personally listen to people with more experience, not to mention WEE owners are still in the new toy syndrome phase (not a knock on the WEE, this applies to all gear).  Has Woo said what transformers are being used in the WEE?


----------



## catscratch

The transformers aren't going to give you the kind of bass control and detail that you will get even with a 717 much less something better. But on the other hand, they will give you more flexibility when it comes to voicing the system - you can use any speaker amp you want. Since the BH and to a lesser extent the 717 are basically a straight wire with gain soundwise, if you want a euphonic sound with the O2, a transformer-box rig with a euphonic-sounding amp is the way to go. Also if your source isn't particularly high end, a transformer-based rig with a euphonic amp will probably filter out grain and in general make things a bit more palatable. But then again if your source isn't particularly high end, then you probably shouldn't bother with the O2.
   
  I finally got the BH to work more or less right and man, with the O2 it's downright ridiculous. So much clarity, the bass is finally what it should be, and its ability to make sub-bass information audible (and palpable) is downright spooky. I also love how it gives each recording and each instrument on the recording a tone of its own. Some vocals will be warm, some cold, and it's kinda scary how much the overall character changes from one recording to the next. And on top of that, there's also the uniquely O2-like ability to be absolutely ruthlessly revealing but never fatiguing at the same time. You hear sibilance but it doesn't bother you. You hear every recording problem but can still enjoy the recording. And of course, the O2/BH is probably the only rig I've heard thus far that actually images properly.
   
  Awesomeness.
   
  Will still try another source though. With the Opus 21 it's more of a plain, "just the facts ma'am" kind of presentation. I think I want something with a bit more warmth and body in the mids.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 n3rdling, I had the same experience with a low-power tube amp, gotta love that tube distortion. 
   
  I've had good results from the Aleph J, I would guess the Aleph 3 or Aleph 30 would work well too.  I would love to compare them to the more recent Fist Watt offerings such as the F5 and J2.


----------



## DaveN

I have tried the SR-207 phones and, while I liked the sound, I find them to be uncomfortable for listening over an hour. Despite multiple adjustments they feel tight on my ears. The HD800 is much more comfortable for me. I am wondering if the shape of the 007 would be a better fit. Can anyone give me feedback about the relative comfort of the HD800 vs 007? Does the round shape of the 007 fit around or on your ears? Best guess, would the 007 be worth exploring?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





daven said:


> I have tried the SR-207 phones and, while I liked the sound, I find them to be uncomfortable for listening over an hour. Despite multiple adjustments they feel tight on my ears. The HD800 is much more comfortable for me. I am wondering if the shape of the 007 would be a better fit. Can anyone give me feedback about the relative comfort of the HD800 vs 007? Does the round shape of the 007 fit around or on your ears? Best guess, would the 007 be worth exploring?


 

 The O2s are the most comfortable headphones I've worn. If your head is on the large side, you may need to bend the arcs a bit, but then they should be fine. The pads are _really _soft, and are in a rotating "D" shape that fits around your ears. If your amp and source are up to it, they are worth exploring simply by how good they are (much better than the HD800).


----------



## Michgelsen

The SR-007 sure is worth exploring. The pads fit around the ears, and the area of the pads that touches your head is quite large, so the pressure is evenly distributed. I find them very comfortable. The HD-800 is also pretty comfortable, though the area of the pads that's against your head feels a bit thinner and therefore the pressure feels a bit higher. Still, the entire shape of the headband and pads of the HD-800 is very ergonomically designed I think. For me, both headphones are on par when it comes to comfort and I could wear both of them for hours.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The SR-007 are heavy, don't clamp as much as I would like, and have big smothering earpads that can rotate.  You may love them, I personally consider them a mixed bag as far is comfort and design goes.  I think the Senn 'stats are much lighter and better designed to stay on my head.  The cloth earpads of my HE60 breathe better than the leather or pleather on any of the STAX.  The JVC DX1000 wins the big fluffy marshmallows around the ears contest.


----------



## spritzer

What bright spark moved the thread?  Most of the high end forum is Stax discussion so moving the main thread makes sense to somebody? 
   
  As for the question of transformers, even when money is no object and fed by true high end amps they don't come close to the dedicated units.  Simple matter of physics and how the amps are designed.  I was far from impressed by the WEE prototype at CJ but they were using that awful WA5 to drive it so that is a factor.  Still the Lundahl's I had with me were clearly superior in a direct comparison even off that nasty little amp.  That was with the small Lundahls and not something like these:
   


 About 9kg worth of Stax transformer goodness.  The WEE is clearly far, far, far from the end of the line...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> What bright spark moved the thread?  Most of the high end forum is Stax discussion so moving the main thread makes sense to somebody?
> 
> As for the question of transformers, even when money is no object and fed by true high end amps they don't come close to the dedicated units.  Simple matter of physics and how the amps are designed.  I was far from impressed by the WEE prototype at CJ but they were using that awful WA5 to drive it so that is a factor.  Still the Lundahl's I had with me were clearly superior in a direct comparison even off that nasty little amp.  That was with the small Lundahls and not something like these:
> 
> About 9kg worth of Stax transformer goodness.  The WEE is clearly far, far, far from the end of the line...


 

 This thread is also as often about amplifiers (ie right now) as it is about full size headphones, so yeah I don't get it either. Speaking of amps, how is the KGSS-HV coming along? I haven't really seen anything about it around here for quite some time. I would expect it to out do the transformers, but it has to actually exist first


----------



## spritzer

The HV prototype boards are being built and tested.  It's all slowly coming together but both KG and I have just not had time for any of this stuff lately.  I hope this will change in the new year so we'll see at least a prototype run of the advanced Exstata plus other projects.


----------



## TimJo

Advanced Exstata?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> What bright spark moved the thread?  Most of the high end forum is Stax discussion so moving the main thread makes sense to somebody?
> 
> As for the question of transformers, even when money is no object and fed by true high end amps they don't come close to the dedicated units.  Simple matter of physics and how the amps are designed.  I was far from impressed by the WEE prototype at CJ but they were using that awful WA5 to drive it so that is a factor.  Still the Lundahl's I had with me were clearly superior in a direct comparison even off that nasty little amp.  That was with the small Lundahls and not something like these:
> 
> ...


 

 My son's WEE actually sounds pretty good with my ZDT amp and O2 Mk1, and much better than the prototype WEE that I borrowed for the Colorado summer meet.  I prefer my WES, but I could live with the ZDT > WEE if I had to.  In comparison my Stax SRD-7 Mk2 and SRD-7 Pro are both inferior, with the WEE being clearly more detailed, transparent, and efficient.


----------



## spritzer

I take it you compared the two WEE's side by side?  Simply changing the loading on the transformer primaries can change the sound like that and that's why I don't use any loading at all.  Also running them from a transformer coupled amp is not a good idea IMO.  Why on earth would you have one set of transformers step down the voltage just to have another pair step it up again?  Then there is the issue of 1%+ THD...
   
  The SRD-7's were never designed for anything like the load presented by the Omegas.  In fact they were all OOP when the first Omega came about but that doesn't mean they can't be used.  Completely rewiring them is a necessity and I for one would scrap the old bias supplies.  They were designed prior to the Omega so they aren't really compatible.  You can even go nuts like I did and partially disassemble the transformers like the one above. 
  
  Quote: 





timjo said:


> Advanced Exstata?


 
   
  The circuit done right so THD at 0.01% and not at 1-2% or even higher as is the case with the current design.  It pretty much mirrors the improvements Stax have made to the same basic circuit with the SRM-323 but with higher rail voltages, better parts, more power etc.  The PCB design has been ready for months now...


----------



## dBel84

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> so we'll see at least a prototype run of the advanced Exstata plus other projects.


 
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> timjo said:
> 
> 
> > Advanced Exstata?
> ...


 

 I guess this should not be a surprise and would I be remiss in assuming you had the courtesy to get the designers blessing....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

spritzer said:


> I take it you compared the two WEE's side by side?  Simply changing the loading on the transformer primaries can change the sound like that and that's why I don't use any loading at all.  Also running them from a transformer coupled amp is not a good idea IMO.  Why on earth would you have one set of transformers step down the voltage just to have another pair step it up again?  Then there is the issue of 1%+ THD...
> 
> The SRD-7's were never designed for anything like the load presented by the Omegas.  In fact they were all OOP when the first Omega came about but that doesn't mean they can't be used.  Completely rewiring them is a necessity and I for one would scrap the old bias supplies.  They were designed prior to the Omega so they aren't really compatible.  You can even go nuts like I did and partially disassemble the transformers like the one above.
> 
> ...





 


No, I've compared the WEE production and prototype with the 2 Stax boxes at different times. The leap in quality between Stax and WEE was much bigger with the production WEE than it was with the prototype this summer. I still think it's a viable option for driving the O2 when you cant spend $1,500 - $2,500 on a KGSS or KGBH, or even a GES. SRM-717 are not easy to find, and most of the time still cost $900-1,000 without being refurbished. In my case I don't rely on a WEE to drive my O2, but I was commenting the fact that it was enjoyable with the WEE.

I'm also well aware of the other concern with using a stat transformer on a transformer coupled tube speaker amp, but I feel like if I reported my findings with a SS amp such as my Icon then you'll just instead choose to ridicule that choice, instead of my decision to try it with my best sounding amp. And numerous people have posted about using the SRD-7 pro or Mk 2 with O2 for years, but I feel like you're singling me out as being stupid because I thought of trying them with a stock SRD-7 pro bias box or WEE a few times. You forgot to put down my WES while you were at it. You might as well air that one again.

Also, I've compared the O2 on an SRM-1 mk2 pro side by side with the GES and the SRM-1 was a joke, with no dynamics, soft volume levels, and thin bass in comparison (although great with SR-Lambda). Yet I've read that the 323 is based on that circuit. So are you telling me the 323 will drive an O2 better than the WEE? If so, I need to get one and sell my eXStatA right away.


----------



## ArmAndHammer

Well...I think you failed...lol...I am interested in learning about Stax and perhaps even give them a try but 980 pages !?!?!? I don't even know where to start...lol
  
  Quote: 





carl said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *duderuud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## spritzer

I do ridicule you when you say something stupid like that.  You may take my views of the WES personally but that is your own problem.  It was you how ever that prompted me to look closer at the circuit as some of the things you were talking about made no sense, as in the amp should not behave like that.  Well what I found was truly bad and listening impressions just added to that but this appears to be a trend with Woo lately.  They even surpassed RSA recently by having the worst pre out I've ever seen so I truly hope they clean up their act. 
   
  That doesn't detract from the WEE being a good product but it is clearly not the end-all piece so many believe.  Like Milos rightly stated, experienced comments are thin on the ground and for 500$ you can have a set of Tango transformers and a simple aluminum box. 
   
  As for the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro, the SRM-323 is cut from the same cloth but it is also very different.  Like the Exstata and many, many Stax amps it doesn't have a low voltage PSU but rather takes it from the HV lines.  P-channel input fets and the same basic topology but with a proper CCS this time around.  If we look at the linear design of the basic Stax transistor linup then the SRM-1 Mk2 PP (i.e. the last version of the circuit) was replaced with the SRM-3 which is the exact same amp as the SRM-Xh (the tiny amp I had at CJ), it even has the same PCB, but fitted with a normal PSU and it is driven much harder.  This is a further refined version of the same circuit which the SRM-313 continued with.  No load resistors for the output devices here either and even further refinements to the already excellent circuit but like the original KGSS it isn't fully CCS loaded.  The 323 changes that so while it may not have the power of something like the KGSSHV, it shares some of the same stuff that makes it so good. 
   
  Your impressions of the SRM-1 Mk2 are all but meaningless.  What version of the circuit did that amp have?  Did it have any servicing from the early 1980's when it was built?  Such comments remind me of when engineers were trying to debunk the chassis material used in the Trabant (car made in the DDR).  They performed a crash test and the fiber based hull crumbled showing just how bad it was.  What was later realized is that the idiots used a nearly 30 year old car so the hull was beyond perished.  Same thing applies to electronics.  Capacitors only have a shelf life of 15-20 years if you are lucky (I'd say 10 years in the hot running SRM-1) so while they may continue to work, they are far from 100%.  The PSU is just a capacitor filter so what do you think happens when those capacitors age? 
   
  The GES is a lovely amp but do you think it is fair to compare a 300$ amp to a 1500+$ one?  The KGSS easily beats the SRM-1 Mk2 but that is hardly surprising is it?  One funny thing about the GES is when people, including you Larry, waxed lyrical about how much better the production GES was compared to the prototype.  To say you were duped would be an understatement...
  
  Quote: 





			
				dBel84 said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I guess this should not be a surprise and would I be remiss in assuming you had the courtesy to get the designers blessing....


 

 By that I hope you mean Stax?  That's where the original concept comes from but Alex knows full well that we have redesigned the circuit.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 wow..you always walk around with a massive stick up your backside eh...a damn hypocrite and a liar..but of course this was hardly surprising coming from the likes of you. I fully expect you to call me all sorts of names in response..like i give a frack...The game sure is lopsided here on HF on how justice is perceived..it all comes down to how close you are with The Man...in this case..all your buddies being mods to get away with such blatant disregard for respect and lack of professionalism...not that you command the former or have any of the latter.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote:  





> wow..you always walk around with a massive stick up your backside eh...a damn hypocrite and a liar..but of course this was hardly surprising coming from the likes of you. I fully expect you to call me all sorts of names in response..like i give a frack...The game sure is lopsided here on HF on how justice is perceived..it all comes down to how close you are with The Man...in this case..all your buddies being mods to get away with such blatant disregard for respect and lack of professionalism...not that you command the former or have any of the latter.


 

 Unlike many members on head-fi, Spritzer comes from what appears to be a place of knowledge. So many on head-fi speak on issues they are not informed on.
   
  I don't even know the man, but anyone who knows what they are talking about is far more valuable than the average head-fier who provides only anecdotal evidence. Ears are important, but not being a fool and suckered into placebo and bandwagon is just as important.
   
  I receive no luxuries on head-fi for posting opinions from members (yourself, for example) but mods are extremely reasonable. At best, I've received a stern message from Currawong recently, for complaining about misinformation in one of the "wikis" on headphone response which contains incorrect ideas on basic physics as well as basic headphone design.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The GES is a lovely amp but do you think it is fair to compare a 300$ amp to a 1500+$ one?  The KGSS easily beats the SRM-1 Mk2 but that is hardly surprising is it?  One funny thing about the GES is when people, including you Larry, waxed lyrical about how much better the production GES was compared to the prototype.  To say you were duped would be an understatement...


 
   
  I'm pretty sure that when I compared my maxed GES to the prototype that I said the power output was similar, but that the maxed GES had slightly better transparency, micro-detail and spaciousness.  That was done with different tubes in the two amps, and I never tried the good Telefunken smooth plates or GE "Wurlitzer" tubes that later fixed the treble and soundstage over the 12BZ7 tubes.  I'm fairly sure I never said it was much better (and if I did I must have been drunk at the time).  And I have said before that I wished I hadn't maxed the GES, but I did it because I knew that I would have always wondered if the lack of upgrades were holding it back or not.  Other than wishing for a little wider soundstage and about 3-4dB more headroom I was happy with the GES, which drove the O2 much better than Sherwood's SRM-1 Mk2 Pro that he brought to the Nov 2008 Colorado meet. I don't know what circuit or mods it had, if any. 
   
  PS:  I'm not alone in my praise for the WES.  Iron_Dreamer at RMAF said my WES + HE-60 was the one of the best rigs he's ever heard with the HE-60.  Steve Guttenberg reviewed my actual WES (I bought the demo unit) with some Stax O2 and found it to be one of the best headphone rigs he's ever heard.  Do you suppose my demo unit sounds different from the others?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I agree Spritzer is very knowledgable, but he's also very opinionated.


----------



## runeight

I do not wish to participate in this conversation, but I would like to make one clarifying post. First with some facts and then maybe one or two opinions.
   
  1. Spritzer says that I know full well about this "new" exstata. This is a classic overstatement of truth. KG did email me suggesting improvements. I am fully aware that these improvements can be made also, I am not fully aware that a new versionof the exstata will be offered by Spritzer and KG.
   
  2. This is diy and the designs are put into the public domain. Thus, anyone is free ti take a design and modify it or even use it without modification. Anyone here could, for example, take Ti Kan's b22 and modify it slightly and offer boards. Many would not do that out of courtesy to him, but some would.
   
  3. I was not asked about this new version of the exstata and its release by other individuals. Nor was there any collaboration between me and KG or Spritzer.
   
  4. There has been a persistent slamming of the exstata by several individuals, including Spritzer. For the record, the exstata was NOT designed as a 1200Vpp amp with .01% THD. It was designed to be an entry level stat amp that would be easy to build and easy to get running and have good, but not flawless, SQ. In this respect the exstata has been a success. While there have been some build problems, most of the builds that I am aware of have come up successfuly and are appreciated by their users. Futhermore, listening reports have indicated that the exstata sounds really good when used within its design parameters. Ask some of the owners.
   
  5. To claim that the exstata must perform like an amp that it was NOT designed to be verges on deception.
   
  6. To enhance the exstata to have less THD and more voltage swing requires more components, more heatsinks, and larger boards. The original goal was small boards and not too many heatsinks.
   
  7. I am puzzled why several individuals, who have spent so much time slamming the exstata design, find it so important to put out an improved version of it. The KGSSHV is an excellent design that will do everything that a modified exstata will do. Why not just make it available?
   
  8. The exstata has done what it was supposed to do -- to provide an entry level amp for builders who want to try stats before moving up to better amps if they like the stat sound.
   
  9. One of the claims that have been made about the exstata is that it is a borrowed Stax design. If the purveyors of this claim believe this (and Spritzer is one who has consistently made it), then it seems odd to take Stax modifications for use as improvements to the exstata. That is, if you believe that the exstata was illegitimately taken from a Stax design, then is it not more illegitimate to apply Stax improvements to it?
   
*Opinions:*
   
  1. My experiences both directly on the forums and with background conversations are that the mods are not always even handed in what they allow various individuals to do and say.
   
  2. I do wish that those who participate in this thread will make some effort to discern the MO here.
   
  I do not intend to respond any further unless certain individuals devolve into ad hominem attacks, which they have done before. In which case I will assume that the mods are decent enough to stop this line of attack.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I agree Spritzer is very knowledgable, but he's also very opinionated.


 

 Yes I am but that's hardly news.  I do believe in quality and doing things properly which is often sorely lacking.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  hah!!..and what you are just proposing to do by the way you are planning to do, mainly eyewashing and two timing is "doing things properly"?...riiigght.
   
  Funny how you want to improve something that, going by your posts about the exstata for the last year and more really had nothing going for it.
   
   Larry you shouldn't be bothered by what this guy has to say..One can be knowledgable, but if that person isn't humble about it or show any respect and be civil to another person and his views..what does it matter how knowledgeable that person is...
   
  I would certainly hope KG and Sprizter would be dealt with decisively and justly by the mods if they infringe upon Alex's IP.


----------



## svyr

sachu said:


> I would certainly hope KG and Sprizter would be dealt with decisively and justly by the mods if they infringe upon Alex's IP.




what part of



			
				runeight said:
			
		

> 2. This is *diy and the designs are put into the public domain. Thus, anyone is free ti take a design and modify it or even use it without modification.* Anyone here could, for example, take Ti Kan's b22 and modify it slightly and offer boards. Many would not do that out of courtesy to him, but some would.




is unclear?



			
				sachu said:
			
		

> hah!!..and what you are just proposing to do by the way you are planning to do, mainly eyewashing and two timing is "doing things properly"?...riiigght.
> 
> Funny how you want to improve something that, going by your posts about the exstata for the last year and more really had nothing going for it.


 
you know full well that he's talking about some unscrupulous products in the audio market. Don't try to twist things the way they don't bend. 

Aside from that, *runeight* seems to have covered everything http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/14685#post_7149743 points 4,5,6 . 
I don't know what the point of the improved eXStatA that's harder to build is (with KGSS-HV soon to come), as per his post. 
Guess people can decide on their own what to build and what they like more or what they can manage to build.
I do know Spritzer likes tinkering with things (amps, hp) just for the sake of seeing how they turn out (e.g. fixing up his dead SRM-1 and upgrading the SRM-300)


----------



## spritzer

It is always nice to see sachu show why he's banned on most forums and why he's been banned here in the past.  I didn't plan on replying to him (don't feed the troll and all that) but some things need to be clarified. 
   
  While I could simply have drawn up a slightly modified SRM-323 the basis of this PCB design is the Exstata so Alex is naturally given full credit on the boards.  Same goes for Kevin who designed the mods that lower the distortion of the circuit hundredfold, remove the need for anything but basic matching of the J271's and add the 2SA1968 based CCS.  These are also boards for my use only, not for some group buy so as Alex says, anybody is free to modify any circuit for personal use. 
   
  I do think that we should always be curious to see what is in a circuit and indeed what is in these so called "magic boxes".  If we wouldn't then how would we know how to change the input voltage of any Stax amp to suit any region?  How would we know how to turn a regular SRM-T1 into the new SRM-600 or to fix the annoying design mistake in the SRM-727?


----------



## sachu

Repost after requested edits by admin.

   

  though it has no relevance to my posts commenting about your actions its really entertaining to see how some folks can manufacture lies so easily or twist facts..if you are referring to me being banned from the worst "forum" ever.. (i am unaware of any other forum that i am banned from)..let me clarify as you seem to be adept at making assumptions out of thin air.

   

  I ASKED to have my account deactivate.. I no longer wanted to be part of that space in the interweb. As for being banned from here for 2 months, yeah i'll admit, i probably deserved a little bit of time off, the reasons for which you as a member are not aware of.

   

  So again goes to show how easy some people can and have the will to push the limits on what is the truth. 

   

  Svyr or whoever you are..there is a lot more backstory to all this than you or most HFiers are aware of. and it goes all the way back to the start of the exstata design a year and half ago or so that only the prototype team and a few others were privy to . 

   

  Some things need to be reinforced  and re-stated, but that still hardly deters some people as they are much too unscrupulous.

   

  So long as there is no issue of boards for a group buy, i am not going to interfere...Alex has laid down his wishes and I hope they are honored as a mark of respect to him.


----------



## ArmAndHammer

On second thought...if owning/listening to/reading about Stax turns you into this mess....I don't want to have anything to do with them...thanks anyways.


----------



## jude

Seriously, guys, get this thread back on topic, and enough with the personal attacks.


----------



## spritzer

I do think this thread has run its course for me.  This has nothing to do with what has gone on is the last page or so, I'm used to that kind of behavior.  I've only been active here for the last few years because the Stax stuff was mostly isolated to the High-end forum but with that isolation gone I see no reason to stick around.  Head-fi has been beyond saving for years now so it is time to focus on the Stax communities elsewhere and on new ventures.  Naturally this means all mods to Stax equipment and new DIY designs/projects/group buys will not be posted here either. 
   
  I'd also like to ask people to stop sending me PM's about any random Stax question.  Odds are that you will not get a reply so don't waste your time.


----------



## moodyrn

There was a new stax thread started in the high-end forum. Now it's been locked. There are way too many things in the high end thread that's not high end to be targeting stax(which is high end). IMO even the old lambdas are high end compared to most expensive dynamics. I would take any lambda over a pair of hd800s, L3000, or even a pair of T1. I don't know what's going on in regard to stax, since it was in the high end thread for so long. So as it looks now, you can't even mention anything about stax in the high end thread.


----------



## ArmAndHammer

hmmm....if all new threads regarding Stax are getting locked, perhaps all new threads about Beats and Skullcandy will be next. Here's to hoping....


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





moodyrn said:


> IMO even the old lambdas are high end compared to most expensive dynamics. I would take any lambda over a pair of hd800s, L3000, or even a pair of T1. I don't know what's going on in regard to stax, since it was in the high end thread for so long. So as it looks now, you can't even mention anything about stax in the high end thread.


 

 x2. The older lambdas have transparency, cohesiveness and effortlessness I have not heard from a non-electrostat, which IMO puts all the dynamics I have heard (incl hd800 and LCD-2 for orthos) to shame.
   
  But who knows, maybe it has something to do with cost? A lot of stax doesn't strike me as all that expensive. In which case maybe the high end forum should be named rip-off central? jk.


----------



## tvrboy

edit


----------



## n3rdling

Spritzer has probably helped more people than just about anybody else on these forums. You really have no clue what you're talking about.


----------



## tvrboy

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Spritzer has probably helped more people than just about anybody else on these forums. You really have no clue what you're talking about.


 
   
  I agree with you. I never said he wasn't helpful to people. I spend a lot of time reading his posts. Just the tone of that one post made me angry. Anyway, Head-Fi isn't the place for personal attacks so I deleted what I wrote. I'm better than that.


----------



## Anders

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I do think this thread has run its course for me.  This has nothing to do with what has gone on is the last page or so, I'm used to that kind of behavior.  I've only been active here for the last few years because the Stax stuff was mostly isolated to the High-end forum but with that isolation gone I see no reason to stick around.  Head-fi has been beyond saving for years now so it is time to focus on the Stax communities elsewhere and on new ventures.  Naturally this means all mods to Stax equipment and new DIY designs/projects/group buys will not be posted here either.
> 
> I'd also like to ask people to stop sending me PM's about any random Stax question.  Odds are that you will not get a reply so don't waste your time.


 

 Thank you for the time here! Sad but times are changing, and I think I will find you elsewhere on the web!


----------



## wink

Sad to see you go, Birgir, The world will still keep turning - but without as much colour.....


----------



## moodyrn

Glad to see this thread moved back to it's rightful place. Kudos to headfi for doing the right thing and basically admitting you made a mistake moving this in the first place. It's good to see other threads moved as well. Stax, he-6, and lcd2 do not belong in the same forum as k701, shure srh840, hd598 etc. But especially stax. The cheapest full electrostatic ever made is better than most dynamics(IMO of course).


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I do think this thread has run its course for me.  This has nothing to do with what has gone on is the last page or so, I'm used to that kind of behavior.  I've only been active here for the last few years because the Stax stuff was mostly isolated to the High-end forum but with that isolation gone I see no reason to stick around.  Head-fi has been beyond saving for years now so it is time to focus on the Stax communities elsewhere and on new ventures.  Naturally this means all mods to Stax equipment and new DIY designs/projects/group buys will not be posted here either.
> 
> I'd also like to ask people to stop sending me PM's about any random Stax question.  Odds are that you will not get a reply so don't waste your time.


 


 I feel much the same way.  I have no dog in the current fight about circuitry and I don't always get on with Spritzer although I respect his opinions, but I am seriously ticked-off with the way the high-end forum has been screwed around in the last few weeks.  There are numerous Stax-related threads that were started here and remained here for months and years (including some started by me) that have been now effectively buried in the oversubscribed general headphone section.   I refuse to go back to that forum and like Spritzer will be heading elsewhere.
   
  As an edit, I will note that I have been advised that some of these other threads may also be returned.  Hopefully this will resolve matters.


----------



## les_garten

Sometimes the fabric of Space can fold over onto itself creating a wormhole.  If you get too close, you can pass thru the wormhole and end up in the Bizarro  World.
   
  I think that is what happened here...
   
  Or possibly an episode of the Twilight Zone has just occurred.
   
  Pick your Bizarreness!


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


les_garten said:


> Sometimes the fabric of Space can fold over onto itself creating a wormhole.  If you get too close, you can pass thru the wormhole and end up in the Bizarro  World.
> 
> I think that is what happened here...
> 
> ...


 

 Agreed!  But it would be nice if the mods stepped forward and explained what triggered this series of unfortunate events, if for no other reason than to allow us to prevent it from happening again in the future.


----------



## robeeert1

what is the best sounding tube 6fq7 for stax srm-007IIt? Thanks very much for your opinion.


----------



## jjinh

Yeah! This forum is back to where it belongs.  d^_^b


----------



## MrGreen

Can someone educate me on what makes an electrostatic headphone safe to use? I mean, obviously they are, but I'm curious how they do it. A big fat resistor, I assume?
   
  Has anyone ever received a fault current to the ears (in theory it should be a very minor shock, I guess)?


----------



## livewire

> Friggen HF editor just zilched my post!
> 
> 
> Ok, let's try again...
> ...


----------



## svyr

livewire said:


> It's not recommended to use them with a wet scalp either. (as in after a swim or a shower)




http://assets.head-fi.org/7/71/7164fbdd_man_p3.jpg 
point 3. 

It seems that will damage the earspeaker (arc, damage to diaphragm?), nothing about electrocuting yourself though.

same here : http://sanderssoundsystems.com/products/innersound-eros-speaker-upgrade-kit/55

Other places also mention protective resistors in the amp.


----------



## MrGreen

The stax link mentions high temperature. What sort of temperature are we talking? In australia it readily gets up to 105F or ~40 C off the top of my head during the peak of summer. I often listen at night, but sometimes I have people come around during the day. I know Milos has used stax in high temperatures with no problems.
   
   Some stax links (basic system) mention 0-35C, but I think that's the operation temperature of the energisers? Not sure.


----------



## svyr

mrgreen said:


> The stax link mentions high temperature. What sort of temperature are we talking? In australia it readily gets up to 105F or ~40 C off the top of my head during the peak of summer. I often listen at night, but sometimes I have people come around during the day. I know Milos has used stax in high temperatures with no problems.
> 
> Some stax links (basic system) mention 0-35C, but I think that's the operation temperature of the energisers? Not sure.




SRM-1/mk2 gets VERY hot, I used it on 35 degree days when it gets to 45+ in my room. 
(specs for temp are 0-40 http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/images/d/d5/StaxSrm-p3.jpg ). SR-507 doesn't have any temp specs listed http://assets.head-fi.org/2/2d/2d7d2828_man_p6.jpg .

Thermal design wise, it stands to reason that components in the driver units may either fail (unlikely since they probably have ample (relatively?) spare tolerances?) or their life-span may get shorter at higher than rated ambient temps (e.g. caps around transistors).

A lot of others use Stax systems in hotter US states and are fine as well.


----------



## brat

Can I find somewhere the schematic of SRM-727II ?
  I want to do the K.Gilmore mod but I need the schematic.
  Thank you!


----------



## MrGreen

Thanks


----------



## deadlylover

This is a public service announcement for all the otaku out there.
   
  The O2mk2 makes Vocaloids sound absolutely stunning. (err, a Vocaloid is a voice synthesizer, imagine a text-to-speech program trying to sing)
   
  I'm not sure how, but it removes a fair amount of the robotic/edginess of the vocals.
  Let's not kid ourselves here, they aren't even on nodding terms yet with a real voice, but that's part of the charm.
  A well programmed song will sometimes make you wonder, "hold on a minute.....this is actually quite pleasant!".


----------



## Currawong

About this thread: it was probably moved by accident.  I've seen the system do weirder things.  There's no conspiracy, not even a decision by anyone that I know of.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





brat said:


> Can I find somewhere the schematic of SRM-727II ?
> I want to do the K.Gilmore mod but I need the schematic.
> Thank you!


 

 My building is getting a massive power upgrade, and the power is shut off till
  sometime saturday or sunday. My servers will be back on then, and the usual
  stuff will be in the usual place.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Yeah! This forum is back to where it belongs.  d^_^b


 
   
   
  Good to see you back from hols. jin.
   
  p.s. - your avatar can now lose the red cap....... (hint).


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *wink* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Good to see you back from hols. jin.
> 
> p.s. - your avatar can now lose the red cap....... (hint).


 

 Okay I've changed my avatar back. 
   
  I'll be leaving again pretty soon. I should be back home around February. I wish I had the portable Stax earphones to bring with me... instead I will have to make do with some crappy IEMs.


----------



## Asr

ElusiveDisc.com extended their 10%-off any order sale until 1/4, details here: http://www.elusivedisc.com/holiday10off2010.asp
   
  The discount can be applied to both the Stax SR-507 and 4070 which makes for a pretty good deal. And they're both in-stock right now too - not that it really matters because the discount applies to out-of-stock items too!


----------



## svyr

asr said:


> ElusiveDisc.com extended their 10%-off any order sale until 1/4, details here: http://www.elusivedisc.com/holiday10off2010.asp
> 
> The discount can be applied to both the Stax SR-507 and 4070 which makes for a *pretty good deal. *And they're both in-stock right now too - not that it really matters because the discount applies to out-of-stock items too!




shoo, not really. 
SR-507 from pricejapan is still $896 *including express shipping* via EMS to US. (similar or lower prices to AU and EU).
elusivedisc is (1100+shipping) * 0.9 (or maybe shipping isn't discounted).

That makes elusive disc kind of a rip-off.
Same story for 4070.


----------



## n3rdling

"10% off our 50% markups"


----------



## Frank I

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> "10% off our 50% markups"


 


  your mean 50 percent profit. Markup is 100 percent. In other words dealer paid 500 for a 1000 headphone. So if it cost you 500 and marked up 50 percent it would be 750.00 Markup on speakers in 2 channel is 100 percent markup which equates to 50 percent profit.


----------



## n3rdling

I know the difference I was just exaggerating.  It was a joke


----------



## vrln

Question from a STAX-newbie: is there an electrostatic amp out there that also functions as a preamp (via XLR)? Apparently one of the older STAX amplifiers had preamp functionality, but the new official ones don´t seem to.


----------



## n3rdling

The only one to my knowledge is the SRM-T1W.  There's a button on the front that lets you choose fixed or variable output.  The T1/T1S/T1W/006t/007t all have the same basic circuit.


----------



## kevin gilmore

That is hardly what most people would consider a preamp output.
  Says so on the front panel.  "passive control selector"
  There is no voltage gain, and the output impedance is that
  of the pot, which is quite high. Furthermore, balanced output
  is only available when used with the balanced input.


----------



## plaidplatypus

As the good Dr. noted it does not give any Voltage gain.  There could be any number of factors that would result in you not get the volume you desire, for example:  an amp with little or no voltage gain, a weak source or recording, speakers that are not sensitive.
   
  For me the big down side to using the SRM-T1W as a preamp is that you have to set the output set to "fixed" to use the headphone amp.  That means that there is no attenuation to the RCA/XLR output signal and if my power amp is turned on then loud noise will come out of my speakers.
   
  Other than those major issues, I've enjoyed using mine as a preamp.


----------



## robeeert1

which year are the tubes from the photo? are they rca's production? would they be a good replacement for stax srm-007t? thanks


----------



## vrln

I´ve been thinking about going STAX for my second rig (the cheaper ones, can´t afford the Omega) at some point. Does anyone know which STAX amplifier models have the voltage switch by default so I could easily order from Japan, but use them in the EU? The local prices are so horrible it´s unbelievable. Want an example? *Stax SRS-4040 Signature System is 2800 euros new!*


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve been thinking about going STAX for my second rig (the cheaper ones, can´t afford the Omega) at some point. Does anyone know which STAX amplifier models have the voltage switch by default so I could easily order from Japan, but use them in the EU? The local prices are so horrible it´s unbelievable. Want an example? *Stax SRS-4040 Signature System is 2800 euros new!*


 


  There are a number of stax models with a voltage switch. I can't tell you which ones exactly, but it's really easy to tell - on the back, it will have a great big dirty block with a voltage next to it. I do know several models of SRM1-Mk2 and SRM-T1 (which as I know are basically the entry level for stax?) have it, and others don't.
   


 Here's an example without it (An SRM-1 chassis rather than SRM1-MK2)
   

   
  Here's an example with it (SRM1-MK2). I'm not actually sure how it works, but I think it serves as a jumper. Someone else will be able to fill you in for sure.
   

   
  Here's another example without it (an SRM-T1).

 I believe the SRM-T1 I have en-route from n3rdling has the block mechanism, so I'll take a photo of that as well for you when it gets here (should be a day or two).

 I think you can change the voltage on ones without the block, but it's more difficult than merely unscrewing stuff.
   
  You can definitely knock up a lambda rig for less than a thousand bucks overall.


----------



## bobkatz

Justin at Headamp. Anyone had any recent successful dealings with Justin these past few months?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve been thinking about going STAX for my second rig (the cheaper ones, can´t afford the Omega) at some point. Does anyone know which STAX amplifier models have the voltage switch by default so I could easily order from Japan, but use them in the EU? The local prices are so horrible it´s unbelievable. Want an example? *Stax SRS-4040 Signature System is 2800 euros new!*


 


  If you buy used you can get a lot for your money.  You could get a SRM717/Omega2mk1 combo for under that price actually, which would blow away almost anything IMO.
   
  MrGreen, you will have to unscrew the bottom plate to locate the voltage jumper block on the T1 I sent you.


----------



## wower

This thread is so unwieldly! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I searched it but got a thousand useless hits - so I humbly ask now:
   
  Short version: between the srm-007tII and srm-727II, driver units, if I'm looking for that _shimmer of tube magic_, is the 007tII the way to go? Or are these amps super close in sound? Or does the extra swing of the srm-727 represent a clearly better value? I ask because as the old skool 6moon's 3030 vs 4040 shoot out makes clear, the 3030 is the better value (and even upon repeated readings doesn't really address tube magic). I also ask because this question weights heavily on my upgrade path - but that strays too far into the long version. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks in advance.


----------



## n3rdling

I've never heard those two amps, but the 007t should be very similar to the T1's I've had and the 727 should be similar to the 717 I had.  That said, for various Lambdas I enjoyed the T1 amps more than the 717 or the SRM1mk2, and for the Sigmas/O2 I liked the 717 more than the T1 amps.  If you plan to upgrade to the O2s down the line, go for the 717 or get the 727 and consider doing the mods to it.  This should sound considerably better than the 007t.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Wower,
   
  I don't think I clearly understand where you want to go with your upgrading.  What do you like about the headphone or speaker systems you have now?  Do you plan on using a certain set of earspeakers in the future?  Do you already have a nice speaker amp?
   
  If you like tubes the Woo GES would be a very good choice. http://www.wooaudio.com/products/wastax.html
   
  I have owned both the SRM-007t and the SRM-727II.  I did not like the 727II, I'm very happy I sold it.
   
  If you don't want to spend as much as the above amps the SRM-1/MK-2 or SRM-T1 are both good choices.
   
  The adapter route is hit or miss depending on what speaker amp you use but can be rewarding if you find just the right amp.


----------



## wower

My ultimate goal is a top-shelf uber O2/BHSE take no prisoner system but can't even remotely swing it at this time. I love the effortless Stax sound but I listen to a lot of chamber music and in my experience I feel tubes really flesh out and add bite to strings. Can't swing the GES now either, though, I will admit, I haven't checked out the adapter route either and now I'm intrigued What price point am I looking at to make this approach work? My upgrade path is exactly what n3rd suggested: 407/507 paired with a used srm-007/727, then get an O2 down the road, and then finally get the uber amp way in the future. I think it's a pretty logical route and happily the first step perfectly matches my budget at the moment.  I have an ebay saved search for this at all times. I'm just kind of waiting for the right config of elements.


----------



## catscratch

The only way I managed to give the O2 that "tube magic" or whatever you want to call it is with a transformer box and a speaker amp that sounded that way to begin with. Stax amps generally are from the "straight wire with gain" school of thought and so is the BH. If you want to use these amps, you're going to need a source that has that tube sound so begin with. I would suggest that you start there - with the source. Then add onto it. This will be especially important with various Lambdas which as a rule sound dry.
   
  No, I don't know which source(s) to recommend. I'm still looking myself.


----------



## wower

That's actually a perspective I hadn't considered before. Good advice. And now a days is a good market for tubed sources. Lots of choices.
   
  UPDATE:
   
  Actually Woo's GES is back on the options list to pair with 507 or 407 ear speakers because because.... I just realized used srm-727/007 come out to about the same $$$ and rarely come up for sale. So... yay! Now I need to ignore the options list with all the courage i can muster..


----------



## vrln

I´ve been thinking about a SR-507 system with one of these amplifiers: 007T2 (vacuum tube version) or the Woo Audio GES. 
   
  Some questions from a STAX newbie...
   
  1.) As ordering from Japan would be the cheapest, are there any problems if I connect the STAX rig to 230VAC sources (REF7+CD7 will be the source)? I would be outputting XLR via the REF7.
  2.) As I´ll have to use a step down converter, 230V to 110V, does this negatively affect the sound quality?
  3.) Are the tubes used in the 007T2 easily available?
  4.) If I want to upgrade to the flagship headphone model oneday, will the 007T2 drive them well? What about the GES?
  5.) Are there any other amplifiers I should consider at around the same price range?
  6.) Could someone tell me the difference between the 007T2 and 727 (solid istate) when it comes to sound signature? I´ve read a lot of people seem to prefer the tube variant.


----------



## DavidMahler

I posted this question in another thread, but I may as well ask you all here
   
  If I were to own just one amp, which would be the better presumed match for the Omega 2 and C32:
  
  WES
  BHSE

 ?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## Driftwood

I think you already know the answer to this, which is why you had already put in an order for the BHSE. I am sure both are fine amps, and I've never listened to a WES, but from what I understand of the designs of both amps, for me, the BHSE seems the better pick due to its DC coupled design. I think the hybrid approach that the BHSE takes is preferable for several reasons as well, firstly because I don't really see much point in doing tube rectification these days and two because the BHSE has a lot fewer tubes to worry about which means a lower maintenance cost. About the only negative aspect I can think of about the BHSE is the long unpredictable wait time.


----------



## wower

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve been thinking about a SR-507 system with........ the Woo Audio GES.


 
   
  Just sent my payment. A humble step into electrostatics I know but mark my words: O2II and BHSE here I come!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





davidmahler said:


> I posted this question in another thread, but I may as well ask you all here
> 
> If I were to own just one amp, which would be the better presumed match for the Omega 2 and C32:
> 
> ...


 

 I've compared them a couple of times, and I would describe my WES (upgraded tubes) as a warm, liquid organic sounding amp with strong bass and full mids, and slightly rounded treble but not rolled off or lacking.  The BHSE seemed to be a little drier sounding but still warm, although not as full in the mids with a less forward soundstage, and a little crisper sounding treble.  I thought the BHSE had a little better speed in the bass, and a little better ambience, air and space (micro-detail).  Where the background is black between notes on the WES, on the BHSE I could hear the little things going on in the background better.  I felt like I was missing less with the BHSE, but without directly comparing them I don't feel like the WES is lacking.  I've only tried my O2 Mk1 and SR-404LE on a BHSE, and most of my comparisons were done with O2.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve been thinking about a SR-507 system with one of these amplifiers: 007T2 (vacuum tube version) or the Woo Audio GES.
> 
> Some questions from a STAX newbie...
> 
> ...


 


  1. 230VAC is the input voltage to the power supply, not the output voltage.  I would be worried if your CD player's output was 230V.
  2. It's 100VAC for Japan.  So long as the converter can supply enough current at the correct voltage it shouldn't make a difference.   Local retailers would have you believe otherwise.
  3. Yes, the SRM-007tII uses 6CG7, four of them. You can even get new ones: http://www.ehx.com/products/6cg7
  4. SRM-007t, no.  GES, not quite.  They both work very well with Lambda-type earspeakers.
  5. The SRM-T1 uses a pair of 6CG7 does a good job with Lambdas, SR-003, etc.
  6.a. The SRM-007t is less detailed than the KGSS or my Aleph J + SRD-7Pro combo, it seems to have a much needed roll off of highs with Lambdas.
  6.b. The SRM-727II is a bit dull, it was my least favorite STAX amp.


----------



## Germs

Hi,

   

  I have a question about the sound volume on my STAX 2050.

   

   

  From my mp3 player or my pre-amp, I have to set the volume knob to 2 or 3 o'clock to have a just decent volume.
   
  Is that normal?
   
  Regards,
  Germain


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





plaidplatypus said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Thanks a lot for your reply! 
   
  1. Oops, stupid question! Sorry...
  2. A stepdown converter can be annoying, but if the local prices are over twice the dollar amount in euros I´ll have to go that way even though I feel bad for the local retailer (will talk about this later)
  3. Good to know the tubes aren´t rare!
  4. Ok, I guess this means I´m stuck with Lambda. The third party amplifiers are just too expensive.
  6b. I was thinking something with tubes would be better for STAX, as they are so pure sounding. Solid state might be a bit too much. 
   
  I was at a local STAX dealer today auditioning a Signature 404 system. The local prices are horrible, so the best I could do is buy a local amp, but it all depends on the prices. If they are as bad as the official distributor suggests (in reality, usually prices are lower than the recommended ones), I will have to order from Japan. Feels bad to do so after getting fantastic service from the local store. It´s not their fault STAX charges so much overseas.
   
  But as for the actual impressions... 
   
  Build quality: the headphones have a durable plastic feel. They feel very industrial. Not cheap, but not high end either. They look very polite actually. Suprisingly light and extremely comfortable to wear! The amp was larger than I expected. It looked very nice, the tube glow from inside the box is a joy to watch.
   
  Sound... I expected a lot, and was still quite suprised. First of all, the bass wasn´t lacking at all. Depeche Mode´s Ultra sounded fantastic. Overall the most striking feature in STAX vs the HD 800 and LCD-2 I have experience on, is the absolute effortlessness of the sound. The sound comes from complete darkness, which dynamics can´t match in my experience. The whole sound signature is very "pure" and delicate. Very impressed! The best thing was that no part of the audio spectrum is recessed. The highs were glorious without being harsh or sibilant, while bass went deep. There´s something very magical about the sound!
   
  All in all I´m seriously considering a STAX system now.
   
  A few more questions: How does the SRM-600(limited edition) and the SRM-006tS compare with the 007-tII with Lambda phones? Is the 007-tII worth the premium?


----------



## n3rdling

Why not buy from the used forums here and save a substantial amount of money or get a significantly better system for the same price?


----------



## vrln

Buying used would be great too of course, if I can find something interesting I´ll definately go for it. Overall the STAX experience was the best headphone audio I have ever heard so far, I would easily take the SR-404 signature system over LCD-2 or HD 800. It combined effortless musicality with the purest sound I have heard. It wasn´t dark (LCD-2) or bright (HD 800).


----------



## wower

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Why not buy from the used forums here and save a substantial amount of money or get a significantly better system for the same price?


 


 I was going to type out 5 or 6 reasons why someone might want to spend their own money a different way but decided I'd rather turn this around - get all socratic on you - and ask you to argue the opposite side yourself.


----------



## vrln

I´ve read that the tube STAX amps needs to be re-biased when you change tubes. This would be my first tube amp, and I´m definately not interesting in rolling tubes. Just wondering about the inevitable day the tubes run out and I´d have to replace them. Is this difficult/should I worry? I assume that if I buy from Japan, the local distributor will definately not help  
   
  It seems the STAX tube amps are the only ones worth buying out of the currently produced official models, and I´ve only read negative comments on the solid state SRM-727 II.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve read that the tube STAX amps needs to be re-biased when you change tubes. This would be my first tube amp, and I´m definately not interesting in rolling tubes. Just wondering about the inevitable day the tubes run out and I´d have to replace them. Is this difficult/should I worry? I assume that if I buy from Japan, the local distributor will definately not help
> 
> It seems the STAX tube amps are the only ones worth buying out of the currently produced official models, and I´ve only read negative comments on the solid state SRM-727 II.


 


  Tube rebiasing is easy and plenty here have done it so you'll have help when the time comes.


  Quote: 





wower said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The main reason I made the suggestion is that he's in a market where Stax are significantly more expensive than elsewhere when buying from the dealers.  If you want to argue you can PM me.


----------



## vrln

Oh well, there´s always PriceJapan and stepdown converters


----------



## plinden

Check out EIF (koji@eifl.co.jp). I have always found Koji to be very compettitive & very helpfull.
  As far as s
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





tepdown converters go, Stax has been making it more difficult to change the input voltage by cutting the transformer wires, however it may not be all that difficult to change. The pic shows the two wires of my 006ta where I soldered in the orange & blue wires. It was then only a simple matter of re-jumpering the pc board & changing the fuse.


----------



## vrln

Is the SRM-600LIMITED a better buy than the SRM006tS? It seems to output a littlebit more voltage (340 vs 300) and has lower distortion. It would be for SRM-507 Lambdas...


----------



## svyr

vrln said:


> Is the SRM-600LIMITED a better buy than the SRM006tS? It seems to output a littlebit more voltage (340 vs 300) and has lower distortion. It would be for SRM-507 Lambdas...




heard SRM-600LTD today on http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/532674/melbourne-1st-meet-2011-08-01-2011-impressions#post_7183330 . Very nice driver unit. 

You might need the extra output voltage if you listen to a lot of classical. I was driving the 507 on 600ltd close to 4 o'clock on some tracks. (usually about 2o'clock max on SRM-1, with 380v max out V)

As for 'lower distortion' don't we need to adjust the THD for different gains to compare them (60db on 6ts, 54db on 600ltd)?


Whether the extra output is worth the price difference for you is only something you can answer.


----------



## Amarphael

2-4 o'clock setting isn't bad at all on SRM-600 or any other Stax amp for that matter.  I tend to listen with my SRM-717 at about 4-5 o'clock via balanced and about 6-7 unbalanced. I guess you meant the usual time frame though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Btw, Can i easily check the bias voltage on my 717?


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Interesting... So it seems STAX has taken a departure from the classic bright-leaning Lambda sound (as the 507 drivers are now in the 300/400 series as well). Both are probably good options though. When I auditioned the 404 it was via the standard 006 series tube amp included in the signature system. Apparently that system should be brighter than the current 507+SRM-600LTD.
   
  One more question though, this one might be a bit odd... How much electricity is actually traveling in the STAX cables? Would it be dangerous to bite one? (I have a cat that sometimes attacks cables, he´s never broken anything, but assuming if he could actually break the cord while the system would be on)


----------



## svyr

vrln said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




power cable - normal AC mains voltage if cat bites through and shorts to ground (10a mains fuse lol?) . Driver to HP, not so sure... Bias is 600v dc, L+/L- and R+/R- - whatever the output voltage up to max AC (probably would be around 200-250V on normal volumes). Current is constrained by limiting resistors for safety, but not sure what the max current is if the cat managed to short either bias or L/R wires ...

p.s. the resistor on Pro bias was about 4-5MOhms. if you know how to calc the max current from there...resistors on L and R are 600kohm (this is from the SRM1 schematic...not sure if either serve a safety purpose)


>Btw, Can i easily check the bias voltage on my 717?

Ask spritzer or kevin_gilmore. Afaik, you need to measure it before the bias resistors on the pro bias socket (i.e. on the board), not via the socket to ground pins (that would give a lower reading)


>I tend to listen with my SRM-717 at about 4-5 o'clock via balanced and about 6-7 unbalanced.


wow... and I thought I listened really loud lol.


----------



## vrln

Thanks for the reply... I guess I´d end up using the STAX with my PC gear anyway, as I´ve already got a nice Audio-gd rig. The cable doesn´t hand around that much then, so it´s much safer. Very hard to decide though. I´m definately not a fan of having to use a stepdown converter, but there´s no way I´ll pay the local prices. 
   
  In the end my choice has narrowed down to a Lambda rig or (the cheaper route) doing some tube experimentation and getting a Trafomatic Experience Head One for my PC, along with a DAC later.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> 2-4 o'clock setting isn't bad at all on SRM-600 or any other Stax amp for that matter.  I tend to listen with my SRM-717 at about 4-5 o'clock via balanced and about 6-7 unbalanced. I guess you meant the usual time frame though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Finally got what you mean - you're talking about the numbers on the volume control, not as per a clock face (i.e. 4-5 = approx 11 o'clock, 6-7 = approx 12 -1 o'clock). That was about right for listening on the Sigma/404; for the Lambda Nova Signature that would be ear shattering, unless your CD payer's output is much lower than mine is.


----------



## Amarphael

O2 on 717 becomes really angry on me only after 7 o'clock Stax time when in unbalanced mood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Do you happen to know the answer for my question?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


amarphael said:


> Btw, Can i easily check the bias voltage on my 717?


 

  No, that's not as easy as just sticking a multimeter probe in the output. You need a very expensive meter for that.


----------



## Amarphael

I have accses to a professional computerized Fluke so it can take the heat, Just tell tell me what to look for?
  I took some pics if ti helps: http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/ad35/Amarphael/SRM717/


----------



## Michgelsen

I don't have enough knowledge to tell you that. However, I think your questions have been answered before on this forum, probably even in this thread. Do a search. You can also use this to search this thread: http://headfi.qix.it/


----------



## green0153

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> I have accses to a professional computerized Fluke so it can take the heat, Just tell tell me what to look for?
> I took some pics if ti helps: http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/ad35/Amarphael/SRM717/


 

  
  Just open the amp find the bias pin http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Image:Stax_Headphone_Cable_Connectors.jpg follow the wire to the first resistor.
  Then measure the voltage from the point immediately after the resistor and the ground (i suppose the case is grounded).Don't worry if the bias is off by ~20V.Good luck.


----------



## Amarphael

Hi, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Assuming i'm reading the socket scheme correctly it's the lower right pin that wired to GRY:

  But there it measures at 58VDC, You said to llok after the resistor but there are no traces directly from that point.


----------



## green0153

Try to open the bottom of the case and see if you can see the trace from there or
  look for a resistor that has a value in MOhms (it will be quite laborious to find it but i assume that it's the only one with a high value like that on the board and will be placed on the main board not the little ones).


----------



## Mossback

i've been lurking here (various headphone forums) for a few weeks and was intending to be patient and go to some local meets, listen and learn a bit, and then dip my toe in slowly. i'd been leaning toward Stax gear as my direction, as i felt it might take me places my regular stereo system might not.
   
  well, best laid plans and all; this morning i saw Kelvinz's ad for an O2 mK1 and usa spec SRM717. turns out he's local, happens to work next to where i work. it must have been fate, so who was i to argue. the O2 and 717 are now sitting in the back of my car.
   
  i've not listened to any Stax gear yet.....that will be later tonight. i'm curious how what i'll hear might compare to the O2 Mk1 with the BHSE or WES i keep reading about?
   
  i must say from my reading that i've enjoyed the headphone community vibe.


----------



## padam

Welcome, not bad at all for a start  What are your sources?


----------



## pomme de terre

Quote: 





mossback said:


> well, best laid plans and all; this morning i saw Kelvinz's ad for an O2 mK1 and usa spec SRM717. turns out he's local, happens to work next to where i work. it must have been fate, so who was i to argue. the O2 and 717 are now sitting in the back of my car.
> i've not listened to any Stax gear yet.....that will be later tonight. i'm curious how what i'll hear might compare to the O2 Mk1 with the BHSE or WES i keep reading about?


 
   
  Congrats! I saw that ad this morning and noticed it disappeared quite quickly.

 If you ever decide to get rid of the 717 for an upgrade, I'm interested in taking it off your hands


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





padam said:


> Welcome, not bad at all for a start  What are your sources?


 


 thanks. my intention had not been to start quite that rich....but it landed in my lap.
   
  you can click the link in my sig for my Audiogon system page.
   
  my sources are 3 tt's, a Rockport, a Kodo 'The Beat' and a custom plinth'd Garrard 301. the Rockport has it's own linear tracker arm and the there are 2 Talea and 2 Reed arms on the other 2 tt's.
   
  i have 2 RTR decks; the Studer A-820 and Ampex ATR-102. i also have a King-Cello phono/tape repro used for the output electronics on the Studer.
   
  i use the Playback Designs MPS-5 for my digital as well as a server dac for my music server which uses the Lynx AES16 xlr hirez sound card.
   
  my conventional preamp is a darTZeel NHB-18NS which has 2 phono stages and i also have the Allnic H3000 phono stage.
   
  the AC power for my system is provided thru an Equi=tech 10WQ wall panel system which includes a 10kw isolation transformer.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





pomme de terre said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 thanks.
   
  i'll be considering the degree of improvement the BHSE or WES might provide (relative to the $$$'s) over the 717 and that might happen at some point.


----------



## silverlight

Quote: 





mossback said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Wow, nice setup!  (I think you're Stax hobby will be rounding error so you probably started in the right place - now just need to get on that BHSE list, or have a KGSSHV built for you)


----------



## dw1narso

Quote: 





vrln said:


> Interesting... So it seems STAX has taken a departure from the classic bright-leaning Lambda sound (as the 507 drivers are now in the 300/400 series as well). Both are probably good options though. When I auditioned the 404 it was via the standard 006 series tube amp included in the signature system. Apparently that system should be brighter than the current 507+SRM-600LTD.


 

 Is this true? that all the newer 507/407/307 STAX earspeaker use the same driver?
  
  (Since I cannot afford 507, I'm looking for better "value", of course...  )


----------



## padam

There was a shop audition impression earlier where the SR-307 was described as similar to the older models (edgy) while the SR-407 was close to the SR-507.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> i'll be considering the degree of improvement the BHSE or WES might provide (relative to the $$$'s) over the 717 and that might happen at some point.


 

 The 717 is definitely the right amp to get in the door with the O2. The KGSS is a better amp than the 717, but that's about to be replaced by the much better HV, which should be a big improvement and will likely be the pinnacle of SS amplification available for electrostatic phones for some time. Currently it's DIY only, but supposedly a commercial version may be available at some point in the future. The BHSE or WES would be better still, but if you want to push the O2 to the max, you need the DIY T2.


----------



## svyr

dw1narso said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




same driver holder case thingy (resin case) and same looking baffle (?), but most likely different drivers


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

mossback said:


> thanks.
> 
> i'll be considering the degree of improvement the BHSE or WES might provide (relative to the $$$'s) over the 717 and that might happen at some point.





 


While I clearly prefer my WES over the 717 with the O2, I think the 717 is a good choice for O2 and you might consider keeping what you have and quitting head-fi before your upgraditis eats your wallet.


----------



## Michgelsen

717 + O2 is indeed an awesome combination. I have not felt the urge to upgrade or change anything ever since.
   
  Edit: though maybe I will laugh at myself in two years or so for ever posting this.


----------



## Dr No

I did not care for the O2/717. Sounded dry, and a bit dark and lacked in hall ambiance. Bass can sometimes be a bit overwhelming too.


----------



## n3rdling

O2/717 combo is great


----------



## Mossback

> The 717 is definitely the right amp to get in the door with the O2. The KGSS is a better amp than the 717, but that's about to be replaced by the much better HV, which should be a big improvement and will likely be the pinnacle of SS amplification available for electrostatic phones for some time. Currently it's DIY only, but supposedly a commercial version may be available at some point in the future. The BHSE or WES would be better still, but if you want to push the O2 to the max, you need the DIY T2.


 
   
  what's a T2? i've learned many of the acronynms but not quite all of them.
   


> 717 + O2 is indeed an awesome combination. I have not felt the urge to upgrade or change anything ever since.


 
   

   


> O2/717 combo is great


 
   
  when i got home last night i watched the Auburn-Oregon game, at half-time i went and plugged in the Stax combo and let it play. after the game i started to listen. it was a bit thin sounding but seemed to get better by the minute. initially i used a long XLR cable directly into my digital player (which is not a balanced design). later i moved it and plugged it into the 'record out' on my darTZeel preamp (which is a single ended circuit design). this was better. by this time it had been playing for maybe 4 hours and it was sound sweet and natural. nice bass, little grain, very refined. i let it continue to play all night and this morning it was still a bit better.
   
  i enjoyed it and look forward to spending more time with it.
   
  mostly i listened to hirez digital (176/24 and 192/24) thru the server. i've not yet tried any of my tt's or RTR decks.
   


> I did not care for the O2/717. Sounded dry, and a bit dark and lacked in hall ambiance. Bass can sometimes be a bit overwhelming too.


 
   
  this is all about one's reference. i'll withhold any sort of comment on whether i think it is dry or dark until i spend more time.  
   
   


> While I clearly prefer my WES over the 717 with the O2, I think the 717 is a good choice for O2 and you might consider keeping what you have and quitting head-fi before your upgraditis eats your wallet.


 
   
  great advice. unfortunately it's a bit late for me on that issue.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> > The 717 is definitely the right amp to get in the door with the O2. The KGSS is a better amp than the 717, but that's about to be replaced by the much better HV, which should be a big improvement and will likely be the pinnacle of SS amplification available for electrostatic phones for some time. Currently it's DIY only, but supposedly a commercial version may be available at some point in the future. The BHSE or WES would be better still, but if you want to push the O2 to the max, you need the DIY T2.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The T2 was the legendary flagship tube amplifier that Stax created for the original SR-Omega about 15 years ago. The Omega 2 demands voltage swing to really get moving and perform at its best. The SRM-007tA / SRM-007tII have 340V, while the SRM-717 and SRM-727 have 450V. The SRM-T2 had 630V. Unfortunately they are extremely rare and expensive, and from what I understand ran hot enough to cook your breakfast on, so I don't think reliability is so hot. The Gilmore DIY version fixes those usability problems.


----------



## Amarphael

I've opened the bottom and traced it to a resitor called R57 that's a part of a row right next to the "STAX" imprint, It measures at 4.8MOhms and 120VDC~, I measured the one after called R56 and gives 280VDC~ and less than 1Mohms. the one after is again 120VDC and somthing... What else? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  Quote: 





green0153 said:


> Try to open the bottom of the case and see if you can see the trace from there or
> look for a resistor that has a value in MOhms (it will be quite laborious to find it but i assume that it's the only one with a high value like that on the board and will be placed on the main board not the little ones).


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 thank you for the answer to my question. that one looks interesting. i'll add it to my (growing) list of headphone toys i might pursue.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> thank you for the answer to my question. that one looks interesting. i'll add it to my (growing) list of headphone toys i might pursue.


 
   
  Sure. Here's a picture of Kevin's version. Not nearly as pretty as the Stax original of course, but it also shouldn't melt itself


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 does Kevin sell ones like that? i have custom output electronics for my Studer A-820 which look like that.....so the 'audio-jewelry' aspect is not hugely signifiicant to me.


----------



## n3rdling

No


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> does Kevin sell ones like that? i have custom output electronics for my Studer A-820 which look like that.....so the 'audio-jewelry' aspect is not hugely signifiicant to me.


 
  I don't think KG or Spritzer offer any amps for regular sale. If you wanted a DIY T2, you would probably need to find a builder.


----------



## dw1narso

@padam and svyr: thanks for your replies..., so basically price does not lie...


----------



## svyr

amarphael said:


> I've opened the bottom and traced it to a resitor called R57 that's a part of a row right next to the "STAX" imprint, It measures at 4.8MOhms




that one looks similar to what went from the bias wire to the bias section in srm-1. measure BEFORE it. (alternatively if there's a resistor connected in series to it, then before that one. You may also want to take a non-blurry picture of the board where you measure...and possibly at the back, so people know where the traces are going)

For bias, when I was measuring the SRM-1 pro bias part, before the 2x 2.2M resistors - the meter (nice fluke one) momentarily showed 580, then droped to 420 (c302 dc to grnd). So 460 sounds reasonable.



Out of interest, why are out trying to measure it anyway? Does it sound bad or is broken or something?


----------



## green0153

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 svyr is right...
   
  Maybe it's easier with a picture.
   
  http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/images5/gilmore4_2.png
   
  in this picture you will see a 4.7MOhm resistor near the BIAS output.The point to measure i right after that resistor.
  You have to follow that logic on your amp and find the end of the series of resistors.


----------



## crumpler

Just auditioned an SR-007 Mk2 today for about 45mins in a local STAX headphone shop, probably the only one around here in Singapore. It was driven out from the SRM-007tII and it sure is sweet sounding.
   
  Stax is really opening a whole new world of headphones to me. I just picked up one of the Spritzer amps he had on sale just a while ago and am really looking forward to experimenting with Stax. I'll probably put an inventory freeze on all headphone purchases till the launch of the C32 before deciding if it is indeed worthwhile to jump aboard the stax flagship. Else, i think an SR-507 or O2 would also do very nicely.


----------



## Gradofan2

Me too...
   
  Enjoying my 507's and SRM-007tII also... and the combo is great!  Great resolution, clarity and detail and a very balanced sound, no frequency is overemphasized / underemphasized... and... a nice soundstage, also.  While I like my dynamic phones with my WA6SEm... I really like the refined sound of the Stax setup.  And... the bass of the 507's is great... good impact and very dynamic... while the mids are warm and rich... and the highs are extended and clear, without any etch, or stridency. 
   
  Everyone should try these at least once.
   
  Quote: 





crumpler said:


> Just auditioned an SR-007 Mk2 today for about 45mins in a local STAX headphone shop, probably the only one around here in Singapore. It was driven out from the SRM-007tII and it sure is sweet sounding.


----------



## Michgelsen

As far as I know, you can't get PCBs either, because only a limited number were made, for a few DIYT2s.
  
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Gradofan2

Can anyone tell me how much of an improvement the WA GES makes over the 007tII (or point me to a discussion of the GES vs the 007tII), if any???
   
  While I think the 007tII is great... just wondered if there are any significant improvements in sound quality - though, I'm not sure how much better it can get.
   
  Update:  I did find this one...
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/311269/impressions-woo-audio-ges-upgraded-stax


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





mossback said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  I hope you enjoy the Stax combination. I've enjoyed reading your posts on other forums about direct drive and idler drives. I think vinyl sounds awesome on the Omega 2s, the better recorded and mastered the LP the more it is able to shine through the headphones.


----------



## crumpler

Wow, they did have a SR-507 for sale as well during the audition and would love to give them a listen sometime too just to compare it with the O2 i heard yesterday. With the O2 already sounding like it does, i wonder how the C32 would.
   
  Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Me too...
> 
> Enjoying my 507's and SRM-007tII also... and the combo is great!  Great resolution, clarity and detail and a very balanced sound, no frequency is overemphasized / underemphasized... and... a nice soundstage, also.  While I like my dynamic phones with my WA6SEm... I really like the refined sound of the Stax setup.  And... the bass of the 507's is great... good impact and very dynamic... while the mids are warm and rich... and the highs are extended and clear, without any etch, or stridency.
> 
> Everyone should try these at least once.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  J-Pak, thanks for the kind words.
   
  i've never really used headphones before; but it just looked like a part of the hobby that might be fun to get into. my intentions in getting the Stax was to start at a level of performance that would be compatable to my regular 2-channel system.
  
  i have listened to the Stax combo the last 2 nights and i'm enjoying it. i'm trying not to listen critically; just trying to enjoy the music and let the whole headphone/Stax vibe take me somewhere. i have ribbon tweeters in my 2-channel speakers so i do get a familiar silkyness to the music thru the Stax that i'm familiar with.
   
  i have not yet listened to vinyl or tape with the Stax, maybe tonight.


----------



## Musicfan49

4 1.5TB HDs-Dell 10" Laptop-California Audio Labs Sigma 24/96 DAC-Bogdan SilverStreak
   
  What a maze!!! I just registered to this forum yesterday and received my first e-mail.......which showed a STAX thread......so here I am. I love my 006tii amp and 404s. I could never go back to my Headroom SS amp-Sennheiser HD600s combo. The clarity in the mid and high frequencies simply fall short. I only wish the build quality was better on the 404s. I've had to get them re-cabled twice in four years!


----------



## Musicfan49

How do you get your SOURCE info below you posts automatically. I'd appreciate any info you could give me.
   
  Thanks, Musicfan49


----------



## plaidplatypus

At the top of the page click on the My Profile tab, then scroll down, down, down, and look for
 Your Forum Signature  Click on the Edit Signature Text link.
   
  Type in the text box or use one of the drop-down menus that say "Show off stuff in your signature", then click submit.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote: 





musicfan49 said:


> 4 1.5TB HDs-Dell 10" Laptop-California Audio Labs Sigma 24/96 DAC-Bogdan SilverStreak
> 
> What a maze!!! I just registered to this forum yesterday and received my first e-mail.......which showed a STAX thread......so here I am. I love my 006tii amp and 404s. I could never go back to my Headroom SS amp-Sennheiser HD600s combo. The clarity in the mid and high frequencies simply fall short. I only wish the build quality was better on the 404s. I've had to get them re-cabled twice in four years!
> 
> Really? Quit dancing with them on then! Also, welcome.


----------



## Gradofan2

Has anyone rolled the tubes in an 007tII/A or 006tII/A, or similar Stax amps to RCA 6CG7's???
   
  Or, can you refer me to a thread discussing that?
   
  If so, does it noticeably improve / alter the sound??? 
   
  I assume they produce a richer, warmer sound (RCA's usually do)... but... how does it affect the upper mids and highs, and the clarity and detail???


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


			
				green0153 said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for that diagram green0153, If so the point to measure would be GRY that as i noted earlier measures at 58V, which happens to be exactly tenth of the correct value... Any other 717 owner could provide an insight?
   
  Svyr, Did you measure with the chassis as ground? btw, the amp is fine and drives the O2 with great authority and dynamics, I just want to be certain that it does so at its fullest capabilites. I'll take a pic of the restors area tomorrow as soon as i replace the batteries of my camera...


----------



## MikeLa

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Has anyone rolled the tubes in an 007tII/A or 006tII/A, or similar Stax amps to RCA 6CG7's???
> 
> Or, can you refer me to a thread discussing that?
> 
> ...


 

  
  I switched to RCA 6CG7 cleartops in a 007tii.  I changed because to my ears the stock tubes were a bit harsh and edgy.  The RCA's definitely sound smoother to me and are more to my liking.  I don't remember how the stock tubes sounded, but I don't remember feeling like I was missing anything after the switch. I will say there are still times my ears feel a little edge when compared to my CS600/T1 combo - even with the RCA's.


----------



## svyr

amarphael said:


> Svyr, Did you measure with the chassis as ground? btw, the amp is fine and drives the O2 with great authority and dynamics, I just want to be certain that it does so at its fullest capabilites. I'll take a pic of the restors area tomorrow as soon as i replace the batteries of my camera...




i did (the grnd terminal at the back)
i wouldn't worry about it if i were you then


----------



## Seld

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Can anyone tell me how much of an improvement the WA GES makes over the 007tII (or point me to a discussion of the GES vs the 007tII), if any???
> 
> While I think the 007tII is great... just wondered if there are any significant improvements in sound quality - though, I'm not sure how much better it can get.
> 
> ...


 

 Thank you Gradofan!
  I was either looking for something like that!


----------



## Germs

Pardon my ignorance, but do all Stax headphone require a specific sort of amp, and why?


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes they do, because the amplifier needs to put out very high voltages (and thus low currents) compared to amps for dynamic headphones. Furthermore, electrostatic headphones need a bias voltage to work properly and the amp must provide for that too.
   
  See also here: http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electrostatic


----------



## Germs

Ok, thanks


----------



## Seld

Hi guys!
  Is there any easy way to improve the tubes on a srm-006 with some other that can output more power?
  I would like to have something like a SRM-600...
  The new sr507 seems to go really better with the new amp, or do you think the better results are not justifying the costs of the new amp rand the modifies to the 006?
  Thanks a lot


----------



## crumpler

Just had a brief audition today with my newly acquired SRM-1 Mk2 PP, a dealer supplied SR-207 and SR-007 Mk2 today at a local stax dealer. I made a point to bring along with me several cds that i would be familiar with in order to have a fair comparison. I volume matched the earspeakers to my usual listening level and gave it a go.
   
  Count me a stax fan now. The SRM-1 Mk2 had plenty of juice to drive even the SR-007 which i understand to be quite a bit more power hungry than the Lambda series to levels louder than i would even care to try.
   
  There's just something the way stax does vocals that really have me spell-bound. I'm gonna be spending a reasonable amount of time, approximately 4months, away from my HE-6s (Orthos) and i have a sneaky suspicion that upon my return to the world of Orthos and Dynamics, i'm gonna find them lacking.
   
  My only problem is whether i should buy the SR-407s as a interim stax phone or just go for broke and shoot for the SR-007s, bearing in mind that a new stax flagship, the C32s are just around the corner. If initial estimates are anything to go by, they should retail for about USD$4-6000 and i'm not sure my current amp will even do it justice then, although some have commented that the C32s are more efficient than the power hungry SR-007s.
   
  Arghhh, choices, choices, choices!


----------



## Michgelsen

Well, you're not the first person with this dilemma. I saw a post once with the advice of going straight for the SR-007, because you will end up with them anyway eventually and it's true.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *crumpler* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> ... a new stax flagship, the C32s are just around the corner. If initial estimates are anything to go by, they should retail for about USD$4-6000...
> 
> Arghhh, choices, choices, choices!


 

 At $4000-6000... not so much a "choice" as an "obsession."


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

I just bought an interesting piece of equipment which yielded some really great improvements in my system.  Has anyone ever bought or used a PS Audio Power Plant Premier.  It is really far out and it cleans up all the dirty electricity coming out of your wall outlets.  It is very different from a power conditioner or a surge protector.  I have mine up and running and it is just amazing how clear all my sound it.  I ordered a second PPP for my external component system. Clean electricity that is coming in at a constant 120 level can me more important than anything else you could do to tweak or upgrade.  The Electrical power is the primary point to focus on before you start any further upgrades.  I highly reccommend the PS Audio Power Plant Premier.  PS Audio also makes other elecrical products.


----------



## wower

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Has anyone ever bought or used a PS Audio Power Plant Premier. ............ I highly reccommend the PS Audio Power Plant Premier.  PS Audio also makes other elecrical products.


 


 Thanks for the heads up. I've narrow down my search to a used PPP but am still a couple months away from pulling the trigger. I think the price is great if one can find a used unit.


----------



## Michgelsen

Or you can just buy gear with good power supplies of their own, which do basically the same thing...


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Or you can just buy gear with good power supplies of their own, which do basically the same thing...


 

 or you can get one of these. an Equi=tech 10WQ Wall Panel System; which is a 10kw balanced isolation transformer with distribution panel. it will immediately upgrade the power supplies on every component, lowering the noise floor and increasing dynamics. your gear runs more linear and is less stressed. even the very best most expensive components get a boost with this.
   
   http://www.equitech.com/products/industrial/wall.html


----------



## n3rdling

I've known two people who got that PPP thing and said it made no difference.


----------



## silverlight

Have heard the Equi=Tech is one of the best treatments for power from a handful of folks who have tried many different power solutions (this and dedicated lines and dedicated grounds).  Unfortunately if you're in a city apartment, different strategies must be employed (the same company's Model Q is apparently a very good choice too for room applications).
   
  If you're into PS Audio (a PPP came and went from my system pretty quickly...), they're coming out with a couple new power plants "perfectwave premiers"
   

   

  
  Quote: 





mossback said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## wower

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Or you can just buy gear with good power supplies of their own, which do basically the same thing...


 

  
  Ahhhhhhhh.... The extremes of head-fi... I, for one, am glad at the cornucopia of power conditioning choices with different features and designs and approaches because the simple reality is - is that besides the fact not many people are in a position to rewire their house for the love of their hobby (maybe they rent an apartment say, like me) -  "gear with good power supplies" do not necessarily fit the myriad of other factors at play when people buy gear. I could start outlining some of the reasons people might favor one amp over another with a power supply representing an all out assault on the high-end but this exercise is much more effective if you do it.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Wow, I am impressed with the PPP dialogue.  It is also interesting to know that PS Audio is coming out with a new line of PPPs.  I did get a deal on my PPP as it was B Stock.  My saving was roughly $700 per PPP.  They are still garranteed by PS Audio which made me happy.  Can you tell me what the new PPP will have that the older one won't.  I am also very impressed with the Equitech system.  It's good that we all agree that one of the most important changes to be made is to clean your electrical power and use a PPP type device.  In all my years of going to Headfi Shows, I am suprised that I never saw a PPP type device in use.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





mossback said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 That's a pretty nice custom box for a lot of basic components that could easily be replicated individually or retrofitted into a homeowners existing load center.  The unit is just a fancy loadcenter, using Cutler-Hammer CH line circuit breakers and separate GFCIs to cut cost.  Cutler-Hammer, Square D, and Siemens makes circuit breakers with integrated GFCIs so they could have made the enclosure even smaller.  The balance comes from the isolation transformer and the central ground tap on the secondary.  It's main purpose is to prevent noise and non-linear loads on the secondary side from having a negative effect on Power Factor for the primary, which is very important for commercial and industrial settings, but not as critical in residential applications since residential customers generally are not charged for poor power factors.  In order to keep the transformer running cooler, the loads within the loadcenter also have to balanced, which they achieve by using all 20A circuit breakers.  It will block the noise from coming in, but it offers little protection from noise sources generated within the house.
   
  Equi=Tech provides a lot of information on their site about the systems and products.  They even use stock Plitron toroid transformer photos, so I suspect I know where the toroid isolation transformer comes from.  The isolation transformers are available separately in enclosures. 
   
  Equi=Tech's service is that they are putting everything in one box that makes it easier for large commercial or industrial installations to isolate a specific large load area such as a data center or broadcasting equipment that can reek havoc on the company's Power Factor or that is extremely sensitive to dirty power.  And they are charging a handsome amount for that service.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 not sure the Stax thread (or Head-Fi) is the place to have this discussion, but i'll make a few comments.
   
  --note; upon re-reading your post and my response i've edited my response.
   
  i agree that essentially the Equi=tech is mostly a great package of parts a very knowledgable person might assemble themselves. OTOH it is also a refined product where the sum performance is greater than the parts by having each piece optimized. as far as the actual isolation transformer, my understanding is that it is proprietary to Equi-tech, they are called 'Q' transformers and are quieter (as far as mechanical noise, and more dynamic that a typical transformer. it's possible i'm wrong about that as i'm taking Equi=techs word for it.
   
  my particular installation comes off a 100 foot home run from my house (i have my own transformer at the street) panel to a separate building (a barn where my audio room is) where there is also a complete separate 100 amp panel for lights and HVAC. i have a double ground rod near the Equi-tech. i have eliminated the GFCI's from each circut as they add noise. the Equi-tech certainly seems to eliminate noise on a level i have never seen before.
   
  the other issue is that in context of a complete audio system and the cost of (toy-like in comparison) power conditioners, which is considerable, the Equi=tech panels are actually almost 'cheap'. i know a number of people who have replaced their multiple expensive power conditioners with the Equi=tech panel and put money back in their pocket. and got many multiples better power grid performance to boot. unless you've heard a system completely 'off the grid' with an Equi=tech i realize it's hard to accept. the 2 best audio systems i've ever heard both have a similar Equi=tech panel.
   
  including legal 'to code' installation my panel was less than $14k. less powerful versions are somewhat less. that's not chicken feed, but if you consider that you are doing a performance upgrade to every component (in most cases upgrades not otherwise possible) then it's cheaper than many other gear changes you might consider.
   
  YMMV, to each their own and all that stuff....


----------



## svyr

>There's just something the way stax does vocals that really have me spell-bound. I'm gonna be spending a reasonable amount of time, approximately 4months, away from my HE-6s (Orthos) and i have a sneaky suspicion that upon my return to the world of Orthos and Dynamics, i'm gonna find them lacking.


vocals and strings. I've not heard HE-6, but the LCD-2 at the meet seemed like a better match for modern rock music than vocals or strings or any sort of classical I can think of.



>including legal 'to code' installation my panel was less than $14k. less powerful versions are somewhat less. that's not chicken feed, but if you consider that you are doing a performance upgrade to every component (in most cases upgrades not otherwise possible) then it's cheaper than many other gear changes you might consider.



I really do wonder if you'd rather not buy an omega and blue hawai for that money or the new stax flagship when it's out (c32?). That's probably a much cheaper and more drastic improvement. Still, I suppose if you can afford the panel and believe it's bang for buck...but I somewhat doubt it.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 i see your point for someone who is at the entry point of state-of-the-art high end audio. acquiring the top level amps and headphones would be the higher priority than over-the-top power grid management. but once a person has bought the gear that he/she wants, and then is considering how to attain optimal performance, the power grid is *always* the '500 pound gorrila' in the room. or, if you are into speakers instead of headphones, the room acoustics is even more important than the power grid.
   
  i've had a custom designed room built....and acquired the gear i wanted. the Equi=tech was dotting the 'i' and crossing the 't' for my system optimization. since i already have the Equi-tech, and i'm now entering the 'headphone zone' aspiring to find top performance, absolutely i'm interested in the BHSE, of a DIY T-2, or the like, i've already bought a O2 Mk1, and am interested on whatever the C32 becomes.
   
  my point really was that whole system power grid isolation is a step needed if you really want to ascend the heights of performance. but it's a final step. and assuming you have the living environment which works for it, it's a more cost effective (and markedly higher performing) way to go in many cases too than add-on power conditioning boxes.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





svyr said:


> >including legal 'to code' installation my panel was less than $14k. less powerful versions are somewhat less. that's not chicken feed, but if you consider that you are doing a performance upgrade to every component (in most cases upgrades not otherwise possible) then it's cheaper than many other gear changes you might consider.
> 
> 
> 
> I really do wonder if you'd rather not buy an omega and blue hawai for that money or the new stax flagship when it's out (c32?). That's probably a much cheaper and more drastic improvement. Still, I suppose if you can afford the panel and believe it's bang for buck...but I somewhat doubt it.


 
   
  Quote: 





mossback said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I won't derail the thread too much more, but I'll add that Mossback has his audio room in a separate building and he's feeding it from his main.  His install is the ideal situation and maximizes his benefits and minimizes his overall costs because he would have to have purchased the load center and breakers anyway.  His cost includes the cost to have it installed to code.  I won't post numbers, but that gives me a pretty good idea how much  the unit costs, unless he received greatly discounted labor and he would have had to pay at least half that cost just to have a cheap residential panel installed to code.  For home owners with existing load centers, there are much less costly ways to add isolation to a system.  I think Mossback realized that was the intent of my comment since he stated he edited his post, which I didn't see the original reply...
   
  Mossback, I'm sure the toroid iron is custom, but they are very open and explain what is custom.  Their Dry-Type transformers are semi-custom, I used to work for Cutler-Hammer and they make a lot of transformers for others and many are tweaked just slightly to meet specific applications.  The Dry-Types actually isolate better, but they are big beasts and need to installed outside the building since they do love to hum along.  I'm interested in one of the Q-style toroids and I'll see how they compare to a custom wound unit from another manufacturer. 
   
  As he has it, Mossback could have used a traditional load center and just added the stand alone Equi=Tech isolation transformer, but I will admit their box is much more aesthetically pleasing than a standard load center and sub-panel:
   

   
  OK, I'm done side-tracking...


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Boilermaker,
   
  thanks. you obviously are a knowledgable professional at this stuff and i appreciate your viewpoint to educate me (and others) about how this stuff works. i'm just a enthusiast listener who relates what my ears tell me and hopefully i don't confuse people too much with my story.
   
  and i did not intend to de-rail the thread, sorry about that.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Mossback
   
  I'll drop you a PM later tonight.  I want to see the rest of the barn.  That's just one of my sub-panels and I did 85% of the work myself with a Homeowner's Permit.  I will confess, my best friend is a 10+ year journeyman electrician, so I had very good guidance even though he couldn't actually do the work.


----------



## EddieE

Some early impressions on the SR-303 with the SR507 leather pads.
   
  About the pads - the leather used on the uppers is very soft and smooth to the touch, the underside of the pad you stick to the baffle is pleather. They come with oval speaker cloth screens as a separate part. The leather pads do not have pockets for the screens, which are placed directly against the metal grill in front of the driver.
   
  Before starting I will add the disclaimer that it is very hard to be very confident in the accuracy of my impressions due to the time it takes to remove one set of pads/filters and get the other on. Many subtle differences may just have been lost. As limited as it may be, the best way to get a firm impression was to listen with one set of pads for a good few days then to sudently switch back to the other, which is what I did. These are early impressions, it's possible I'll change my mind.
   
  First off, for me, the comfort is much better. That's a relief as this is the main reason I wanted to get rid of the old pads and foam screens. My ears stick out and were constantly touching the foam, which I found very itchy and abrasive. My ears do touch the cloth screen too, but it is far less irritating. 
   
  I don't know why this surprised me but I found that the SR507 pads and cloth actually lend something of the SR507 sound signature to the SR-303 which, for me, is a massive plus. I fell I love with Stax listening to a pair of SR507 at a meet, and the vibrancy of the sound, the speed and details and impact are all replicated on a lesser scale by transplanting those pads and cloth onto the lower Stax.
   
  Getting into detail, when I returned to the pleather pads with foam filters after a week I noticed the sound was veiled. The overall presentation was softer and smoother but was missing some of the detail and clarity, not to mention solidity and weight, it had with the leather/cloth combo. In favour of the foam and the bulkier old pads though is the sense of space and air to the sound. The sound stage, while still very natural and large is diminished with the leather pads. I wonder if this could be fixed by adding a distancer between the baffle and pad...
   
  Going back again to the leather I really do not detect any rolling off of the HF others have mentioned. Does not mean it was not there but that if it was too subtle for to be sure of it's of no concern to me. The bass is definitely not decreased and if anything it is slightly increased in quantity and definitely increased in clarity and impact.
   
  I prefer the leather pads with cloth screens, but think it is really an issue of personal preference and both are great sounding options. Rather than one being inherently better than the other, it will come down to what your personal favourite flavour is. Some will prefer that smoother, airier presentation of the foam and pleather but for me the vibrancy, clarity and speed of the leather/cloth combinaton was much preferred.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





wower said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 For whatever it's worth, I was not impressed with the PPP I had. Build quality at least for awhile was very suspect. The PS forums were pretty full with people have the "click of death" issue. Mine ended up having it after a year or so, and PS just sent me a brand new one rather than attempt a repair. I'm not sure what causes it, but I would be concerned about an out of warranty PPP. It would be fine if it was backed like a Bryston, but it isn't. 3 years isn't a long time for a component like that.
   
  Aside from the reliability issue, I just don't think it sounded all that fantastic. PS solved the ravenous power consumption and limited output issues of the earlier Power Plants by going to a digital amplifier to create the 60Hz wave, and I wonder about how much switching noise it creates while its cleaning up the AC line noise. The PPP in my system was also hyper sensitive to the quality of the cord feeding it from the wall, and didn't seem to do a fantastic job at isolating noisy downstream components from each other. I ended up just selling the replacement unit that I received from PS. I haven't owned any other regenerators but I've heard a few over the years in several systems, and frankly I just don't think the idea works as well in practice as PS's and other co's extensive marketing would indicate.
   
  I think the best sounding conditioners right now are still the traditional passive types - Running Springs Dmitri and Maxim and Audience's Teflon Adept Response models. I've also heard a lot of good stuff about Isotek's Nova and Titan models and would like to check those out. Granted all of these are _very _expensive. For modest stereos and headphone setups that draw less than 7A, a B-P-T isolation transformer would work very well for around $800 or so, and should be as reliable as a wood burning stove.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> Some early impressions on the SR-303 with the SR507 leather pads.
> 
> About the pads - the leather used on the uppers is very soft and smooth to the touch, the underside of the pad you stick to the baffle is pleather. They come with oval speaker cloth screens as a separate part. The leather pads do not have pockets for the screens, which are placed directly against the metal grill in front of the driver.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for posting your impressions. After my experience with old vs. new pads I became quite convinced that pads can indeed make a serious difference, I suppose (just suppose, I don't have first hand experience with 404) even greater than the cable, i.e. 303 vs. 404. Glad you like the change.
  Your impressions don't quite mirror mine, which doesn't surprise me that much considering that you have tried the leather new pads, while I've tried the pleather ones. With the cloth inside the baffle opening, resting against the metal mesh, I also found the sound very transparent, I don't know if more transparent than with the old pads with foam but quite a lot so, and the highs were very good and extended (as very opposed to the old pads with cloth inserted where used to be the foam).
  With the cloth inside the baffle opening I found the bass somewhat diminished (with the new pads) or seriously diminished (with the old pads with foam removed) as compared to the old/foam pads, so perhaps the leather pads increase the bass to the point where it exceeds the old/foam pads bass. You may also be right about the soundstage width, I don't remember, and I definitely prefer a very large soundstage to a narrow but accurate one (due to my cheap source that doesn't image precisely enough anyway and due to my past long years of musical pleasure in the company of the AKG K501).
  However, one thing that does surprise me is the fact that you found the leather pads to have greater impact that the old/foam ones. Please note that I have tried:
  - old pads with foam
  - new pleather pads with cloth inside the baffle; also with the cloth inside the pads pockets
  - old pads with cloth inside the baffle; also with the cloth in the position previously occupied by the foam
  - old and new pads without any cloth or foam
  - old and new pads with all kind of very "transparent", thin materials as replacements for Stax foam or cloth (mostly women scarves made of silk and similar stuff - all had too little bass)
  Regardless of the foam or cloth thingy inside, in my experience the old pads themselves were obviously punchier (and not only in the bass iirc) than the new pleather pads - I repeat, I'm just comparing the pads themselves here. I think the old pads emphasized the midbass a bit, while the new pleather pads emphasized more the lower bass while the midbass was comparatively more subdued. If both our reports are "correct" (whatever that means), then the leather new pads must sound very different to the pleather new ones - at least with respect to the impact or punch.
  I've just noticed you said several things about the bass w. leather pads: solidity, weight, quantity, impact, clarity. Perhaps with new pleather pads one could also perceive the bass as weightier due to the stronger low bass, impact is something else for me.
   
  As a general conclusion, I think it's a good idea for the various Stax Lambda series users to try the different kinds of pads as they might discover this way an easy solution to subjectively upgrade their headphones. I also find the edstrelow's idea of removing the back foam interesting, but I must confess I didn't have the guts to try it as I've already had enough problems with my 303s. Unfortunately, I don't like to use leather, meat etc., so I'll not try the leather pads myself (my K1000's headband and pads are an exception as the phones were bought used when they were already out of production). But that's just me and a very different topic that has no place in this thread, I'm just too talkative now.


----------



## EddieE

[size=10pt]This is a problem I always have with writing things up – is the language I am using different to that others are? Maybe...[/size]
   
[size=10pt]Bass _quantity _I would describe the general volume of the bass regions. When it comes to low bass I am not 100% certain but feel that the bass quantity between the two options is pretty similar, and maybe the leather have a little more (again I have no strong conviction on this – they are certainly close) but I do believe they have greater impact.[/size]
   
[size=10pt]What I mean by impact might be different to what you mean. What I refer to is I guess a combination of speed and clarity. For example a kick-drum – how defined that sound is, how quickly it arrives and how quickly it is gone, how clear the decay of the note is. The difference between *Bop!* and *Brrrp*. You can have phones where the bass quantity is through the roof but it has no definition, no control - no real impact. [/size]
   
[size=10pt]Maybe I’m using the term wrong here but that is what I meant.[/size]
   
[size=10pt]But there is a passage in what you wrote that seems to reconcile both of our experiences:[/size]
   
_[size=10pt]. I think the old pads emphasized the midbass a bit, while the new pleather pads emphasized more the lower bass while the midbass was comparatively more subdued.[/size]_
   
[size=10pt]Yes, this would explain it. The over riding smoothness and richness of the old pads, but slight drop in clarity and transparency (which for me are very much tied up in impact) is down to emphasised mid bass. [/size]
   
[size=10pt]Once the mid bass veil is lifted a bit the low bass is probably not increased (if you think about what is happening – decreased bass means more escapes on the way to your ear – leather and pleather should be the same really in that respect) but can be heard more clearly, as can the rest of the frequency response. Without the mid bass filter which uniformly warms and smoothes out the sound but also some of the detail - everything becomes clearer and has more authority. On the downside, you loose some of the naturalistic tone that lush warmness provides.[/size]
   
[size=10pt]Anyway, after another week with the leathers on I will switch back suddenly to pleathers again and see what I think again then will finally do the clean up and reglue for good then. May also remove the back screen as I am very worried about what will happen when that foam degrades…[/size]


----------



## Don Quichotte

You may be right. By "impact" I mean the tactile feeling of (sudden) pressure against the tympani, the thing that electrostatics are said to be doing less convincingly than dynamics because of their transducers moving less air (I cannot generalize, I haven't heard the O2s, but my 303 definitely have weaker impact than any of my AKGs). It's not something restricted to the bass area. I also remember that comparing only the pads themselves (both with cloth, for example) I thought the new pleather pads might be a bit more precise & relaxed. Both aspects, this and the imo superior impact / midbass presence of the old pads, I tend to believe are mainly due to the distance between the transducer and the ear, which is smaller with the new pads than with the old, thicker ones. Oh, and the soundstage width too. Your experiment with distancers might be interesting.
   
  I wouldn't worry so much about the degradation of the back foam, in the worst case you can always remove it without having to also remove the pads completely (you only need to lift the pads in the corners). Anyway, should you still do it, it would be even better - we'd have another round of listening impressions to chew, wouldn't we?


----------



## xiaobao0707

Hi Carl,
   
  This is a great thread and I'm gonna try my best to absorb the large information in it.
   
  And I found that the link to the old thread does not work any longer, perhaps due to the upgrade of the site?
  
  Quote: 





carl said:


> By popular demand I'm starting a new thread for our discussions on all things Stax and electrostatic due to the unwieldily number of pages of that thread. This thread should be looked on as a direct continuation of the previous thread.
> 
> Keeping a broad scope with regards to subject matter has served us well up to now, so feel free to discuss anything related to Stax and electrostatic/electret headphones and their amplification in general.
> 
> ...


----------



## Don Quichotte

I think Carl stopped posting around here for a while now...


----------



## Audio-Omega

Are Stax headphones better for orchestral music than dynamic or is it a matter of preference ?


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





audio-omega said:


> Are Stax headphones better for orchestral music than dynamic or is it a matter of preference ?


 


  As close to objectively better you're ever going to get IMO.
  
  The price of entry is pretty low if you go vintage lambda route. I got a setup (headphone + amp) that IMO beats every ortho/dynamic headphone setup I've ever heard. And I got it for less than 1k all up.
   
  What state are you in?


----------



## spacemanspliff

A bit off topic but I am getting a bit frustrated. I am trying to find a home for a SRD-7 that Spritzer tweaked a bit. It does normal and pro bias.I have not had ANY interest. I am asking what I paid for it ($150) plus including a pair of anti-cable jumpers for free. Is there no market for them anymore?


----------



## EddieE

I saw that - I'd want it if I had the money spare, sure others would too. First month after Christmas/New Year not a great time to be selling, just takes a bit of patience.


----------



## Audio-Omega

Thanks MrGreen, but I'm too far away from Perth.  Anyway, I have been considering about abandoning the dynamic route.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Good. Just wanted to make sure my price was ok. Figures to be worth that much. Using it with a pair of Nova Basics and my receiver made for some very clean sound.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





audio-omega said:


> Thanks MrGreen, but I'm too far away from Perth.  Anyway, I have been considering about abandoning the dynamic route.


 


 There's a bunch of members near capital cities outside of WA with stax as well


----------



## Audio-Omega

Has anyone listened to SR-007Mk2 being driven either by Headamp KGSS or Woo GES ?


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





audio-omega said:


> Has anyone listened to SR-007Mk2 being driven either by Headamp KGSS or Woo GES ?


 

 I don't think anyone has ever heard that Combo...


----------



## plaidplatypus

Headphoneaddict had the Woo GES and O2MkII.


----------



## WilCox

Quote:


audio-omega said:


> Has anyone listened to SR-007Mk2 being driven either by Headamp KGSS or Woo GES ?


 
   
  The search function is your friend.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   
  
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/273051/woo-audio-ges-vs-headamp-kgss
  
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/318729/kgss-vs-wa-ges


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





audio-omega said:


> Has anyone listened to SR-007Mk2 being driven either by Headamp KGSS or Woo GES ?


 
   
  Quote: 





plaidplatypus said:


> Headphoneaddict had the Woo GES and O2MkII.


 

 Yeah, the GES sounded nice with the O2 Mk2, and was a better match with those than the Mk1.  I tried many tube combinations and found a couple that worked well with them (GE "Wurlitzer" 12AX7, and Telefunken 12AX7 smooth plates).  But, I felt that it needed more power for listening to live recordings.  At normal volumes it was fine, but I always wished for another 3dB of headroom for loud passages.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





audio-omega said:


> Has anyone listened to SR-007Mk2 being driven either by Headamp KGSS or Woo GES ?


 


  The KGSS/007MK2 is amazing sounding. The combo makes most Lambdas sound lifeless and unnatural in comparison. You see, most Lambdas have this dryness in their sounds which could be an issue with "heavier" music but the Omega fixes this issue quite marvelously. Gone also is the fuzzy bass that both 404 models exhibit. 
   
  Well, I know that I'm getting a top-of-the-line Stax model (C32) somewhere in the future as that's the kind of sound that I'm looking for. The LCD2/β22 serves as a very good compromise for the time being though as I feel that it's just one step behind 007MK1/MK2 with the latter edging the LCD2 with mainly more treble details and spaciousness. The HE6 has flawed imaging and separation which are very bothersome for me.


----------



## Audio-Omega

Thanks guys.
   
  HeadphoneAddict, do you like SR-007 over HD800 for orchestral music ?


----------



## crumpler

I've a question for all the other more experienced stats head-fiers. I've just gotten into stats and because of that, i don't have much of a reference point to begin with.
   
  Met with a problem of sorts today and it's some serious channel imbalance on my SR-507s. I just bought it last week and it worked perfectly initially but beginning from yesterday, without me so much as moving the volume knob, the music would get softer and softer till i need to turn the volume right up to get an even decent volume. And when i do that, the music gets really muffled like listening out of a radio turned right up. Now when i do try to listen to them, they have this severe channel imbalance. 
   
  Another thing, when i initially turn my stats amplifiers on, is it normal for the earspeakers to have some audible static coming from them? This happens even tho the amp is on minimum volume and the static does subside after say 30-60secs. It's just static that gradually fades away.
   
  Any idea why this might be the case or has anyone else experienced these problems?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





crumpler said:


> I've a question for all the other more experienced stats head-fiers. I've just gotten into stats and because of that, i don't have much of a reference point to begin with.
> 
> Met with a problem of sorts today and it's some serious channel imbalance on my SR-507s. I just bought it last week and it worked perfectly initially but beginning from yesterday, without me so much as moving the volume knob, the music would get softer and softer till i need to turn the volume right up to get an even decent volume. And when i do that, the music gets really muffled like listening out of a radio turned right up. Now when i do try to listen to them, they have this severe channel imbalance.
> 
> ...


 

 You have evaporative or refrigerative air conditioning? I had the same problems under conditions of extreme humidity (i.e. evaporative air conditioning and humid weather). Sent mine back to be checked and nothing at all wrong. Worked fine when the humidity dropped and still does. Sometimes it was one channel, sometimes both. 
  The Quad ESL's also hate it - maximum loudness is wayyyyyy down at the moment under exactly the above conditions.
  Those 507s are seriously good phones.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> You have evaporative or refrigerative air conditioning? I had the same problems under conditions of extreme humidity (i.e. evaporative air conditioning and humid weather). Sent mine back to be checked and nothing at all wrong. Worked fine when the humidity dropped and still does. Sometimes it was one channel, sometimes both.
> The Quad ESL's also hate it - maximum loudness is wayyyyyy down at the moment under exactly the above conditions.
> Those 507s are seriously good phones.


 

 Wow! Looks like i'll have to have a 2nd look at them. I'm here at Brisbane and it seems pretty humid now but strange since i did just arrive from Singapore and it worked perfectly there, granted tho, i've only just them indoors with the air-con turned right up and i've no air-cnoditioning to speak of in my place here in Brisbane.
   
  Anyone else can confirm this strange phenomenon? Could it be that STAX just tested the phones for use in Japan where humidity might be way low all around the year? I'ld be seriously disappointed if this does happen to be the case!


----------



## svyr

crumpler said:


> Met with a problem of sorts today and it's some serious channel imbalance on my SR-507s. I just bought it last week and it worked perfectly initially but beginning from yesterday, without me so much as moving the volume knob, the music would get softer and softer till i need to turn the volume right up to get an even decent volume. And when i do that, the music gets really muffled like listening out of a radio turned right up. Now when i do try to listen to them, they have this severe channel imbalance.




get a multimeter, set it to 1kv ac max. get a 1khz mono tone (e.g. from audacity), at the hp socket, measure r+/r-, l+/l- http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/317133/who-knows-what-the-pin-out-is-for-stax-and-sennheiser-electrostatics#post_5609792 (if the multimeter has max min mode, you can use that and compare the min max as well). compare. Imo it sounds more like a problem with your srm1. How long have you had it for/how roughed up is the unit/has it been serviced?
Alternatively, if you can borrow a pair of another pro-bias hp, plug them in and have a listen for the channel imbalance.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





svyr said:


> A[quote name="crumpler" url="/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/14850#post_7241428"] Met with a problem of sorts today and it's some serious channel imbalance on my SR-507s. I just bought it last week and it worked perfectly initially but beginning from yesterday, without me so much as moving the volume knob, the music would get softer and softer till i need to turn the volume right up to get an even decent volume. And when i do that, the music gets really muffled like listening out of a radio turned right up. Now when i do try to listen to them, they have this severe channel imbalance.


 get a multimeter, set it to 1kv ac max. get a 1khz mono tone (e.g. from audacity), at the hp socket, measure r+/r-, l+/l- http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/317133/who-knows-what-the-pin-out-is-for-stax-and-sennheiser-electrostatics#post_5609792 (if the multimeter has max min mode, you can use that and compare the min max as well). compare. Imo it sounds more like a problem with your srm1. How long have you had it for/how roughed up is the unit/has it been serviced? Alternatively, if you can borrow a pair of another pro-bias hp, plug them in and have a listen for the channel imbalance.[/quote]


 Thanks for the reply! The severe channel imbalance actually isn't limited to one side but actually switches around. It was really muffled/low volume on the left earspeaker early this afternoon but after some extensive playing, the right earspeaker is now muffled/low volume, which was really perplexing cos i'll have difficulty describing this problem to the dealer.


----------



## padam

It can also be a problem with interconnect cable contact, I have experienced this a few times.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





padam said:


> It can also be a problem with interconnect cable contact, I have experienced this a few times.


 

 Yeah, i was kinda giving that some thought as well but as far as i can tell, even while swapping the L/R balanced cables, the channel imbalance still seem to persist. The USB connector to the HRT Streamer does seem kinda loose tho, as in a minor jerk could disconnect it from my MAC.
   
  Might need to venture downtown to pick up a cheap USB cable in order to trouble-shoot the problem.


----------



## Robot Metal

I put it off for a while, but I'm going to purchase the capacitors to upgrade my SRM-1 Mk1 now.
   
  It seems that there's only 4 sets of 2 capacitors on there. (350V/47uf, 35V/470uf, 10V,220uf, 25V33uf)

  
 
   
  I'm going to replace them with Mundorf Supreme, Mundorf Mlytic, Nichicon Muse KZ and Black Gate respectively. Are these the best choices?
   
  After that it seems I have to calibrate it by plugging multimeter lines into the positive/negative outputs of each channel while manipulating the t.vr 001 t.vr 002 t.vr 003 t.vr 004 pots with trial and error.
   
  And one last question, I purchased a portable SRM-001 amp from somebody who claimed it was broken due to connecting it to more voltage than it could handle. Upgrading aside, which part should I replace just to get it working?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## Michgelsen

The 'phones should be fine up to 90% relative humidity, according to the Stax website (http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR307_407-e.html), so I think they did test it.
  It should be better when you do not have airconditioning, because when air is colder, it can hold less water. Therefore, when you cool off humid air, its relative humidity increases even more.

  
  Quote: 





crumpler said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> The Quad ESL's also hate it - maximum loudness is wayyyyyy down at the moment under exactly the above conditions.
> Those 507s are seriously good phones.


 

  
  Where did you get the Quads? If we end up having our stax get together (would rather put it off for now because of weather) you should let me have a listen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. I am kinda interested in vintage quads at the moment, but haven't had an opportunity to sit down and listen to a pair of stat speakers. Really I've been avoiding it as I'm currently on a musical instrument binge. Currently a few thousand down and still a ways to go unfortunately.
   
  Regarding the channel imbalance. I haven't been having channel imbalance, but have been avoiding it on the especially hot and humid days for comfort issues. I have, however been having problems with similarish electronics because of the heat and humidity (which I managed to fix by adjusting bias, but obviously that isnt an option for this). With the slightly nicer weather recently, I've managed to put them back to regular settings with no problems. So it's definitely worth trying the humidity idea.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> The 'phones should be fine up to 90% relative humidity, according to the Stax website (http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR307_407-e.html), so I think they did test it.
> It should be better when you do not have airconditioning, because when air is colder, it can hold less water. Therefore, when you cool off humid air, its relative humidity increases even more.


 
   
  I've always been under the impression that colder/air-conditioned air would hold much less water than normal humid air but i'm not entirely sure that it is indeed humidity that is causing said problems, which would now seem even more unlikely.

  
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Where did you get the Quads? If we end up having our stax get together (would rather put it off for now because of weather) you should let me have a listen
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Just to be absolutely clear, is everyone experiencing the exact same problems? As in channel imbalance and the weird volume fading thing or just one or the other. It would be helpful if we could match our problems exactly so we could make troubleshooting much more effective.
   
  On a different note tho, anyone within the Brisbane/Sunshine Coast area that might have a spare STAX phone where i could bring down my rig in order to trouble-shoot?


----------



## John Buchanan

Most of Australia is experiencing cyclonic weather at the moment. This equates to extreme humidity and high temperatures. This can be well controlled by refrigerative air conditioning, but is made even worse by evaporative air conditioning. Refrigerative air conditioning reduces the relative humidity markedly, evaporative increases it. I have evaporative a/c. It's cheap to use and is appropriate for Perth weather, except for when it isn't!
  I had these exact same problems when the Sigma returned after modification in the USA to a Sigma/202. Sent it back to have a new set of drivers (404s) put in (not under warranty, because I had bought the drivers separately). The 404 drivers exhibited the same problems, despite a Lambda Nova Signature series phone playing perfectly on a brand new SRM-717. So I narrowed it down to the Sigma. At the time this all happened, the house was so humid, the floor tiles were moist! If you have refrigerative a/c, this should prevent the problem. If evaporative, it will make it worse.
  By the way, the 202 drivers I first had transplanted into the Sigma were returned from Yamasinc/Accutech as nothing wrong with them. Fortunately, because I now use them in that Lambda Nova Signature shell and they function perfectly. You best test is to find another local Stax owner and try them out there. Bring your own SRM-1 Mk 2 as well.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The Quad ESL 989s were fromTrevor Lees in Melbourne, as he had them at a price too low to resist - demo pair from one of his Qld acquaintances. Fortunately, I wasn't in a rush, LOL There is a local Quad dealer in Perth - Simply Hifi. I seem to remember that some dealers were selling off the smaller 988s at a very low price - it might be worth looking around for a demo set of these?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Most of Australia is experiencing cyclonic weather at the moment. This equates to extreme humidity and high temperatures. This can be well controlled by refrigerative air conditioning, but is made even worse by evaporative air conditioning. Refrigerative air conditioning reduces the relative humidity markedly, evaporative increases it. I have evaporative a/c. It's cheap to use and is appropriate for Perth weather, except for when it isn't!
> I had these exact same problems when the Sigma returned after modification in the USA to a Sigma/202. Sent it back to have a new set of drivers (404s) put in (not under warranty, because I had bought the drivers separately). The 404 drivers exhibited the same problems, despite a Lambda Nova Signature series phone playing perfectly on a brand new SRM-717. So I narrowed it down to the Sigma. At the time this all happened, the house was so humid, the floor tiles were moist! If you have refrigerative a/c, this should prevent the problem. If evaporative, it will make it worse.
> By the way, the 202 drivers I first had transplanted into the Sigma were returned from Yamasinc/Accutech as nothing wrong with them. Fortunately, because I now use them in that Lambda Nova Signature shell and they function perfectly. You best test is to find another local Stax owner and try them out there. Bring your own SRM-1 Mk 2 as well.


 

 Why not get a dehumidifier?
   
  I use one of these in our basement, since the humidity causes the ceiling "tiles" (they are made of some foam composite) swell if the dehumidifier isn't ran every week. I run it over night once a week and it collects about 500 ml of water.


----------



## John Buchanan

In this sort of environment, it is usually unnecessary and wouldn't be able to cope with an evaporative a/c. It would be like pouring water in by the bucketload and trying to bail it out with a thimble. Nice thought though.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

audio-omega said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> HeadphoneAddict, do you like SR-007 over HD800 for orchestral music ?





 


That's a tough one. It depends on the amp, and can go either way. In general I think the HD800 replicates the acoustics of a large hall to better surround me, but the Stax have a deeper soundstage which while narrower and more contained has well defined imaging.


----------



## jaycalgary

Wow that is humid. I am now in a very very dry part of my Canada but did live in East in Ontario Canada and was very humid. Sometimes if you left potato chips out overnight they would get soggy.
  Sounds like Australia has that beat though.
   
  I have had the imbalance problem also. Right now the right side has more bass punch. I tried a few things. Swapping the RCA cables left to right channel, flipping the earspeakers on my head and reversing channels
  with Foobar. I am guessing that it may be SRM-1/MK-2. Normal bias seems a little better balance than pro bias but still not right I don't think. When I unplug the earspeakers and touch the pins with finger it is just the
  right side than seems to pop when discharging. Soon I will put an order in for new caps and try to re-bias the amp.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





crumpler said:


> Just to be absolutely clear, is everyone experiencing the exact same problems? As in channel imbalance and the weird volume fading thing or just one or the other. It would be helpful if we could match our problems exactly so we could make troubleshooting much more effective.


 

 The other equipment I am using (i.e. not stax) has been having fluctuations in volume (as it is mono).
   
  The weather where I live has been terrible, though. Like 42 C with high humidity.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> When I unplug the earspeakers and touch the pins with finger it is just the  right side than seems to pop when discharging.


 

 I'm sure this is not normal. Mine do make the pop sound on both sides, and especially after a prolonged listening session the sound is loud enough that I can hear it easily from more than 1 meter away (headphones off the head, of course
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





don quichotte said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  I've never experienced any popping when touching the pins. Although, I do have them off my head at the time, listen at very low volumes and do this after every listen.


----------



## crumpler

Anyone experienced any static upon initial powering on of the amplifier with the earspeakers plugged in?


----------



## Robot Metal

When nothing is playing, just that weird "amp turning on" sound. When something is playing, it clips for 1-5 seconds. (static, maybe)


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





robot metal said:


> When nothing is playing, just that weird "amp turning on" sound. When something is playing, it clips for 1-5 seconds. (static, maybe)


 

 Thanks for that mate. Nothing really to update on my end but will post my solution to my problem as soon as i find one.


----------



## Audio-Omega

Who else sell electrostatic amplifier apart from the well known manufacturers ?


----------



## Michgelsen

Stax, Headamp, Woo Audio, Ray Samuels Audio, RudiStor, McAlister, that's about it I guess (in current production). Some local workshops make them too, and there's of course DIY.


----------



## plaidplatypus

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Lambdas sound unnatural with the KGSS, not as much so with SRD-type boxes, the STAX tube hybrids or the Woo GES.  I found the SR-007 and KGSS to have a wonderful sound but with a bit too much bass slam.  I must prefer the warm fuzzy I get with Lambdas.


----------



## K3cT

I haven't tried many combinations with the SRD transformers but I had compared a Pro-bias SRM1/MK2 with a SRD7 Pro/Gainclone before and I much prefer the SRM1/MK2. That was with an SR-Lambda and 404LE. I haven't tried the tube hybrid and GES before. 
   
  If I have to choose a Lambda then the 202 will get my vote, at least compared to what I've heard (SR-Lambda, 303, 404 Signature, 404LE). Open and spacious presentation, good timbre (I much prefer the timbre of 202 compared to 404/404LE) and comes with a price that doesn't break your wallet. Once you get to the 404LE and above the price starts to creep very close on the new Orthodynamics and I'm honestly not sure whether they are truly better than the LCD2/HE6. I think it's better to stick with a cheaper Lambda and jump straight onto the O2 bandwagon once the funds permit. 
   
  It's just a shame that the 007MK1 and MK2 slightly sacrifice that delicious open and spacious presentation of the Lambda to get actual bass and impact. I wish the C32 can improve on this somewhat.


----------



## livewire

@K3cT, I agree entirely on your take of the 202's.
  Best bang for the buck, I absolutely love the sound.
  My next jump up (when I can afford it) will be the O2's,
  possibly the new flagship if under $4K.
   
  BTW, Your avi is hawt!  Who is she?


----------



## forbigger

im one of the stats avid fans that jump from kgss/404LE to 007mk2. while i love 404le, i cannot stand the treble/high edginess especially on some recording, it simply becomes too bright for me. o2 tame this. i have chance to listen briefly to 202 setup with CD as transport and I believe it sounded great on limited genre. one thing missing on 202 (like most people said) is the bass and the impact. while in the world of dynamic, its rewarding to experienced every little steps of upgrades, for stats it would be better for one to just experience the flavor of the entry level in this case 2020 or esp950/e90 and gather enough funds to jump straight to end of the journey ie. at least kgss with o2. anywhere between that is just an icing on the cake.
   
  one more thing i would like to mention is source. stats unlike most of dynamic require a good source. but with the dissemination of great budget dacs lately, this became one less of worry.......


----------



## jjinh

I'm also a big fan of the SR-202s! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   

  
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> @K3cT, I agree entirely on your take of the 202's.
> Best bang for the buck, I absolutely love the sound.
> My next jump up (when I can afford it) will be the O2's,
> possibly the new flagship if under $4K.
> ...


 
   
  K3cT's avatar is cropped from some digital art by Lysol-Jones. It's supposed to be Wendy (from Wendy's),


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> It's just a shame that the 007MK1 and MK2 slightly sacrifice that delicious open and spacious presentation of the Lambda to get actual bass and impact


 


  SR Omega


----------



## tigon_ridge

Hi, guys. I'm very intrigued by electrostats but have never heard one. (yes, newbie) Question for you sr-001, sr-003, or sr-202/207 owners: How do does the detail resolution in the midrange of these cans (with their corresponding amps or whatnot) compare to other headphones or universal IEMs? Do they top them in terms of instruments separation? Do they deal as well with very complex passages? I'm considering purchasing the srs-005s system to have a taste of electrostatic sound, or the sr-001 mk2 for portability; but may very well go for the srs-2170 depending on their sonic signatures. I prefer a just slightly warm sound with somewhat forward midrange. I also dislike excess warmth, much more than I dislike flat neutral. 98% of the music I listen to is vocal, so midrange performance is literally everything to me. I would prefer a can with impeccable midrange and crappy bass&treble over a can with most unbelievable bass&treble but _just very good_ midrange, anyday. I'll also appreciate any other inputs or advice you guys will give.


----------



## Driftwood

I find the SR-001Mk2 / SR-003 uncomfortable to wear for any long duration.

Also, I thought the SR-001Mk2 was discontinued, unless you are thinking of buying used...


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> Hi, guys. I'm very intrigued by electrostats but have never heard one. (yes, newbie) Question for you sr-001, sr-003, or sr-202/207 owners: How do does the detail resolution in the midrange of these cans (with their corresponding amps or whatnot) compare to other headphones or universal IEMs? Do they top them in terms of instruments separation? Do they deal as well with very complex passages? I'm considering purchasing the srs-005s system to have a taste of electrostatic sound, or the sr-001 mk2 for portability; but may very well go for the srs-2170 depending on their sonic signatures. I prefer a just slightly warm sound with somewhat forward midrange. I also dislike excess warmth, much more than I dislike flat neutral. 98% of the music I listen to is vocal, so midrange performance is literally everything to me. I would prefer a can with impeccable midrange and crappy bass&treble over a can with most unbelievable bass&treble but _just very good_ midrange, anyday. I'll also appreciate any other inputs or advice you guys will give.


 


*Detail separation - the best. Complex passages - no problem. *
  These two aspects are where the electrostats shine due to their "fast transient response time".
  Basically that means that the diaphrams in the headphones move very quickly due to their super light weight,
  much more so than a dynamic type headphone's heavier coil and cone drivers.
  This quick movement equates to much sharper, better defined sound overall.
  There are only a handful of dynamic and orthodynamic phones ever made that even come close.
  These cost much more than the basic Stax and Koss setups. 
   
  Stax headhones (they call them "earspeakers") are very demanding of the source used
  to render their pristine sound. An Ipod wont cut it. Most MP3 recordings wont cut it.
  You need a decent quality DAC and computer setup with at least 44.1K FLAC recordings
  or CD transport to bring out the best in these (or any headphone for that matter.)
  Because the electrostat design is so resolving in their sound output, a bad source's flaws will be magnified.
  Garbage in, BIGGER garbage out.
   
  FWIW, highs are great, midrange is great, bass is somewhat lacking, excellent tonality, soundstage is great.
  Many say that the top of the line Stax have much improved bass, but at the expense of reduced soundstage.
  I dont know, I have never heard those.
   
  The above are my impressions listening to my SR-202's and the Lambda Pros that I have owned in the past.
  I have never listened to the IEM variants.
   
  And FWIW, I tend to like brillant highs, not rolled off or etched. I like a well defined midrange, not veiled or congested.
  I am not a fan of "big bass". I do like it's presence in a balanced measure, taught and punchy, not boomy or too forward.
  My 202's still amaze me in these regards. I AM in a happy place! (Oh, and I'm a n00b too)


----------



## tigon_ridge

@livewire
   
  You addressed every one of my concerns. Thanks! Yes, I already knew the basic concept of es drivers; just wasn't sure if all of that translated to superior real performance, especially with new balanced armatures, orthos and dynamics popping up here and there continually. I think BA and orthodynamics operate along the same push-pull principle, except their diaphragms are nowhere near as light (proportionately in the case of BA). In BA, I think that can be compensated for with well-implemented crossovers networks and more drivers (and even more still). I have a uDAC that I think can feed adequate signals into the Stax energizers. I listen to flacs almost exclusively.


----------



## livewire

@tigon_ridge,
   
  Good, good, and good!
  One thing that I did not mention.
  Please give them a listen and see if they really are for you (or not)
  before plunking down that kind of coin. Go to a meet or find a store
  that has a demo set. Best of luck! These cans will blow your mind!


----------



## catscratch

Forward mids, lots of resolution in the midrange, warm but not too warm, and shines with vocals is basically the SR-001/003/005 in a nutshell. These headphones are disturbingly good for vocals, and off a serious rig they will scale enough to give just about anything a run for its money midrange-wise. I don't find them particularly comfortable but at their pricepoint the sound blows most things away. If you do go that route, keep in mind that fit is important with these, almost as much as with an IEM, so you will definitely want to experiment. Also the portable amp [is not great], so you will want to go with a stationary amp if portability isn't an issue. There's also a thread in the DIY forum dedicated to SR-001 modding; I've had a few of these rigs and generally if done right the improvements are not subtle.
   
  I definitely prefer the overall sound signature of the 003 to the various Lambdas, not necessarily because it's technically better (the Lambdas are definitely more resolving and spatious) but because most Lambas share colorations that I generally don't like, whereas the 003 is actually quite close in tonality to the Omega 2, which I like a whole lot. The 003 is far from totally neutral itself but at the very least its sonic deficiencies I can live with (mostly limited bass/treble extension, slightly overly forward mids, and small soundstage).


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> Forward mids, lots of resolution in the midrange, warm but not too warm, and shines with vocals is basically the SR-001/003/005 in a nutshell. These headphones are disturbingly good for vocals, and off a serious rig they will scale enough to give just about anything a run for its money midrange-wise. I don't find them particularly comfortable but at their pricepoint the sound blows most things away. If you do go that route, keep in mind that fit is important with these, almost as much as with an IEM, so you will definitely want to experiment. Also the portable amp [is not great], so you will want to go with a stationary amp if portability isn't an issue. There's also a thread in the DIY forum dedicated to SR-001 modding; I've had a few of these rigs and generally if done right the improvements are not subtle.


 

 I've only had a brief exposure to the baby stax. What I heard was interesting, however things kind of seemed "sucked out" or "upside down". I think it may have been due to a poor seal though. I've not heard anything quite like it since. Normally I don't really mind it as much as others when a seal is less than ideal, but it seemed to produce odd results in this case. So providing this is not how they sound, consider it due warning about the effects of a good seal on this particular phone
   
  Quote: 





> I definitely prefer the overall sound signature of the 003 to the various Lambdas, not necessarily because it's technically better (the Lambdas are definitely more resolving and spatious) but because most Lambas share colorations that I generally don't like, whereas the 003 is actually quite close in tonality to the Omega 2, which I like a whole lot. The 003 is far from totally neutral itself but at the very least its sonic deficiencies I can live with (mostly limited bass/treble extension, slightly overly forward mids, and small soundstage).


 
   
  Which colorations, exactly? The frequency responses of every lambda I've ever seen has been astonishingly close to a freefield response - this includes the so-called "etch" which is actually required for the presentation of a flat speaker coming at your face.


----------



## Michgelsen

Elaborate, please.
  
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> (...) The frequency responses of every lambda I've ever seen has been astonishingly close to a freefield response - this includes the so-called "etch" which is actually required for the presentation of a flat speaker coming at your face.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

  
  I think I will just save up for a C32. Gonna be a long wait but it's going to be worth it!


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Elaborate, please.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 

http://www.head-acoustics.de/downloads/eng/application_notes/Equalization_brochure.pdf
   
  Here's some light reading.
   
  This is of course I'm misunderstanding where this "etch" people describe is situated. There's certainly some deviations - a flatness in the Lambda Signature, a slight overshoot of the peak in the Pro (which doesn't have the aforementioned flatness).
   
  Stax tends to get fairly close IMO.


----------



## Duckman

Yep. On my O2 setup, it lasted between 3 and 10 seconds, then all was fine.
   
  Whether you hear it and for how long will probably depend on your amp.
  
  Quote: 





crumpler said:


> Anyone experienced any static upon initial powering on of the amplifier with the earspeakers plugged in?


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





duckman said:


> Yep. On my O2 setup, it lasted between 3 and 10 seconds, then all was fine.
> 
> Whether you hear it and for how long will probably depend on your amp.


 

 Thanks for that nugget of information mate!


----------



## vrln

I am getting the STAX feeling again... As most here know, all roads lead to STAX, so maybe I shouldn´t fight it!
   
  How hard are the tubes to change in the current STAX amp models? Looking at SRM-600. No sane person buys STAX from EU dealers, so there´s no warranty maintenance wise etc...


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I am getting the STAX feeling again... As most here know, all roads lead to STAX, so maybe I shouldn´t fight it!
> 
> How hard are the tubes to change in the current STAX amp models? Looking at SRM-600. No sane person buys STAX from EU dealers, so there´s no warranty maintenance wise etc...


 


  I'm using an older T1, but it's literally just unscrew it and pull them out.
   
  Just be careful of hte other stuff as it's high voltage in stax amps.


----------



## vrln

As far as I know the STAX amps aren´t auto-biasing, so surely it can´t be that easy?


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





vrln said:


> As far as I know the STAX amps aren´t auto-biasing, so surely it can´t be that easy?


 


  Oh right, I forgot about that. I thought you meant just accessing the tubes. I don't know how to do that yet, but it's apparently very easy. I'm sure someone will post soon enough


----------



## padam

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1


----------



## Shike

Hey everyone,
   
  Got a quick question.  I decided to snag a pair of SR-3 New Stax and having a bit of an oddity with them.  After listening to music for a while (say an hour or two) I start getting a hum in either one or both sides.  When I pull out the plug and short the pins against my hand I hear a peeling or hissing sound then a pop.  Plugging them back in the hum is gone.
   
  Thoughts on what you think is going on with them?


----------



## bobkatz

Is the hum on the order of 50, 60, 120, 180, or 240 Hz? It sounds like a filter cap in your amplifier is probably going or perhaps an active element as well.


----------



## Shike

Quote:


bobkatz said:


> Is the hum on the order of 50, 60, 120, 180, or 240 Hz? It sounds like a filter cap in your amplifier is probably going or perhaps an active element as well.


   
  The thing is it happens on both adapters I have, and it isn't a frequency based hum.  The hum also isn't constant, it slowly builds.

 I think the mylar is shot actually and is sticking partially to the stator.  Something similar happened with my SR-5 before they went shot.  If I suck in on the right cup with the hum it goes away, if I blow in it comes back back.  This would explain why discharging and plugging them in provides a temp fix, presumably it takes a while for them to reach full voltage potential on the mylar and eventually the right sound/amplitude causes them to stick.
   
   
  At this point I think it's safe saying that all old Stax are pretty much going shot, at least from my experience (and crap luck) . . .


----------



## ex0du5

So while I'm considering high end headphones such as LCD-2 and HD800, I figured I should be fair and give Stax a chance as well. What kind of setup could I snag for around $1,000? How might it compare to say, the LCD-2?


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> So while I'm considering high end headphones such as LCD-2 and HD800, I figured I should be fair and give Stax a chance as well. What kind of setup could I snag for around $1,000? How might it compare to say, the LCD-2?


 

  
  I got a stax lambda signature and a T1 for just shy of a grand.
   
  It is much better than the LCD2 and HD800, IMO (which is why I bought a stax rig in the first place, instead of the other two).. For reference, I heard hte LCD-2 and the lambda I bought on the same day and preferred the lambda outright.
   
   
  You have several options - for amps I'd probably stick to an SRM1/mk2 or a T1.
  For stax, I'd probably look at vintage lambda models if you're going to stay sub 1k, or a 202 or 207. Many options could end up less than 1k, as the lambda signature is one of the more expensive vintage lambdas.
   
  Hope that helps


----------



## ex0du5

Thanks. What would be the best place to buy? Ebay?


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> Thanks. What would be the best place to buy? Ebay?


 


  Head-fi. There's many helpful members in the stax department.
   
  I'll PM you with more info.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> So while I'm considering high end headphones such as LCD-2 and HD800, I figured I should be fair and give Stax a chance as well. What kind of setup could I snag for around $1,000? How might it compare to say, the LCD-2?


 

 For me, LCD2 (or HE6 despite its quirky imaging) with a proper setup is generally better than all the Lambdas that I've heard (SR-Lambda, 202, 303, 404 Signature, and 404LE) as while it lacks the latter's open and spacious presentation, on a whole it presents a more balanced presentation from top to bottom. For example, none of the Lambdas over there do bass as good and clean as the LCD2. The SR-507 indeed might be a different story but my personal guess is it won't stray too far from a Lambda's general sound signature.
   
  A properly set-up 007MK1 or MK2 is a different story though.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> For example, none of the Lambdas over there do bass as good and clean as the LCD2.


 


  This is also my experience, however I think the lambdas do a much better job of all other frequencies and are generally more balanced overall.
   
   
  Quote: 





			
				Shike said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> ...


 
   
  You might benefit sending a PM to some of the users who have technical experience with the innards of stax products on the "other site" (spritzer comes to mind).


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Already figured out what's wrong, the Mylar has stretched/lost tension.  Another vintage set bites the dust -_-


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 PriceJapan is pretty good if you want new. Depending on your countries voltage, you might need to use a stepdown converter. But you´ll save up to 50% depending on the local reseller prices.


----------



## crumpler

So is amazon.co.jp! Prices are really low for STAX in Japan. All that is needed now is a reliable mail forwarding service to the US or wherever!
  
  Quote: 





vrln said:


> PriceJapan is pretty good if you want new. Depending on your countries voltage, you might need to use a stepdown converter. But you´ll save up to 50% depending on the local reseller prices.


----------



## jaycalgary

Well now I am back home. I have two pair of Lambda Signatures. One pair I have been using are almost like new and even original soft pad but the left side bass seemed weak. My other pair I have not used in months are like my beater pair.
  They were owned by a smoker.The pads are hard the grill was dented in and dust cover a bit out of shape but not broken. So I plug them in for a change and the bass is back. So it must not be the amp. I just swapped the old hard pads for
  the softer ones.


----------



## Gradofan2

Could you be more specific?  What is a mail forwarding service?
   
  Can't you just order from these sources in Japan, and have the items shipped via EMS, or DHL, or other shippers (e.g. FedEx, or UPS, etc.), directly to your address in the USA???  You just work that out with the vendor - right?


----------



## padam

Just search for "deputy service Japan" or similar.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





> PriceJapan is pretty good if you want new. Depending on your countries voltage, you might need to use a stepdown converter.


 

 Can you use any good converter, purchased over the internet... or... do you need a special one, or the ones provided by Price Japan, or other Japanese Stax vendors???
   
  Does the converter introduce any noise?  I had used one for a Dark Voice amp and Senns / Grados / ATHs, and it was perfectly quiet - are the Stax amps / phones any more revealing of such noise?


----------



## Shike

Hey guys,
   
  I just received a pair of SR-202's.  Currently though all my adapters are normal bias.  I've heard about people modding the SRD-7 to Pro bias levels.  Does anyone have directions on how to do this?  Thanks.
   
  EDIT:
   
  Seems I just have to convert it to a voltage quadrupler.  Is there a specific diode and voltage/capacitance caps I should use?
   
  PS:
   
  It says in the manual that using the SR-202 with normal bias rather than pro may damage them if used at a higher volume?  Does anyone have any info on why this is and whether I should be concerned or whether it's alright for the time being in your experience?


----------



## livewire

shike said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just received a pair of SR-202's.  Currently though all my adapters are normal bias.  I've heard about people modding the SRD-7 to Pro bias levels.  Does anyone have directions on how to do this?  Thanks.
> 
> ...


 

  
  Spritzer has mucho experience with this topic.
  I believe that he was selling some bias adapter boards a while back.
   
  As far as driving the 202's with the lower bias voltage, dont do it.
  The current level is probably too high, especially at "higher volumes", whatever that might be.
  It would be a pity if you damaged them.
   
  Look for a used SRM-212 or SRM-252 energizer amp.
  Shouldnt cost more than $200 tops.
  Not too powerful, but sounds pristine, they will drive the 202's to ~90dB.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





livewire said:


> shike said:
> 
> 
> > Hey guys,
> ...


 
   
  Is this true?  I did not know you can damage pro headphones by putting them in normal biased amps/energizers.  I know that plugging in a normal biased headphone into a pro bias will destroy the diaphragm, but how does the current level ruin them when plugging in a pro biased headphone into a normal biased jack?  Is this conjecture or is this based upon something?
   
  Sorry, if you think I'm attacking you, this is not my intent.  I am curious about this statement since this runs counter to what I thought I knew about stators.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





region2 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 That's what I was wondering.  I always thought voltage controlled amount of force (amplitude) so it struck me as odd that a lower voltage would somehow damage them :|


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





shike said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 If I recall correctly, there's not actually a lot of current and the headphones only take what's needed.  So I don't think it has to do with current.  There could be damage if you do so but this is beyond what I know atm.  And considering it's a Japanese manual, they're careful about writing warnings for everything.  I have plenty of Japanese appliances the missus buys and though the power brick is clearly marked 100-240v but the manual states that you should always use a step down transformer.  So it could just be classic Japanese (over) cautiousness.
   
  Though, I hope someone more knowledgeable on the subject can chime in.


----------



## deadlylover

It probably has something to do with the stators swinging to a higher voltage than the diaphragm when it is only charged at normal bias levels.
 This is why they warned against turning them up too loudly in the manual.
 The diaphragm will become negative in relation to the stators and some funky stuff may start happening.

 I could be completely wrong of course, as the normal bias stuff shouldn't be swinging that much voltage anyway, making pro drivers immune to arcing/whatever


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





region2 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yes, what I said about the current was conjecture.
  (I did say "probably" and was wrong)
  I just looked at a few amp schematics that have dual biasing
  with fixed current limiting output resistors in each bias leg.
  Doing the math, the current is indeed about half for the normal bias side.
   
  I would not dismiss what is written in the manual. Stay on the safe side.
   
  So I guess that it does have something to do with what deadlylover posted?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Region2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Is this true?  I did not know you can damage pro headphones by putting them in normal biased amps/energizers.  I know that plugging in a normal biased headphone into a pro bias will destroy the diaphragm, but how does the current level ruin them when plugging in a pro biased headphone into a normal biased jack?  Is this conjecture or is this based upon something?
> 
> Sorry, if you think I'm attacking you, this is not my intent.  I am curious about this statement since this runs counter to what I thought I knew about stators.


 

 I've tried some of my pro bias headphones from normal bias plugs in the past but only for very brief periods of time (...out of curiosity. IMO it sounds crap). No (apparent) damage but I know close to zilch about the current level and other technical aspects so I could be wrong.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Yes, what I said about the current was conjecture.
> (I did say "probably" and was wrong)
> I just looked at a few amp schematics that have dual biasing
> with fixed current limiting output resistors in each bias leg.
> ...


 

 Thanks for the answer.  I was just curious why you picked current and was wondering if there was something written about
   
  As for deadlylover's post, the reason for arching is the other way around if you plugged a normal into a pro (a bit difficult with trying to squeeze a 6 pin to a 5 pin jack though).  And speaking of pins, I thought they made it so you could plug a pro into a pro, a pro into a normal, a normal into a normal, but not a normal into a pro due to this reason.
   
  Edit: found a post from Spritzer on it.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/249297/normal-bias-stax-plugged-into-pro-energizer-after-plug-modding#post_3121935


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I've tried some of my pro bias headphones from normal bias plugs in the past but only for very brief periods of time (...out of curiosity. IMO it sounds crap). No (apparent) damage but I know close to zilch about the current level and other technical aspects so I could be wrong.


 


  Braver man than me.  If I even think I a little bit of sweat, I spend quite a bit of time with the hair dryer before I even put on my Stax.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





region2 said:


> Braver man than me.  If I even think I a little bit of sweat, I spend quite a bit of time with the hair dryer before I even put on my Stax.


 

 It's more like stupid


----------



## Michgelsen

You can all relax now. There is no harm in using pro bias 'phones with normal bias. Stop spreading false information and 'theories'.
   
  If it were a problem, Stax wouldn't have made the plugs of pro bias earspeakers compatible with the normal bias outputs.
  On amps with both types of outputs, the outputs are the identical except for bias voltage. Pro bias 'phones will therefore receive the same audio signal as normal bias headphones, even when you use pro bias out of the normal bias outputs. Pro bias make the 'phones slighty more efficient, but not much.
  The SRM-T1 (both pro and normal outputs) can deliver more voltage (max 300V) to the stators than the normal bias voltage (230V). If this would be so dangerous, Stax would not have made the amp this way. Whether it would be a problem when the stator voltage becomes higher than the bias voltage, I don't know. Remember that the max output of 300V is RMS voltage, so you get to a real 230V even faster.


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> You can all relax now. There is no harm in using pro bias 'phones with normal bias. Stop spreading false information and 'theories'.
> 
> If it were a problem, Stax wouldn't have made the plugs of pro bias earspeakers compatible with the normal bias outputs.
> On amps with both types of outputs, the outputs are the identical except for bias voltage. Pro bias 'phones will therefore receive the same audio signal as normal bias headphones, even when you use pro bias out of the normal bias outputs. Pro bias make the 'phones slighty more efficient, but not much.
> The SRM-T1 (both pro and normal outputs) can deliver more voltage (max 300V) to the stators than the normal bias voltage (230V). If this would be so dangerous, Stax would not have made the amp this way. Whether it would be a problem when the stator voltage becomes higher than the bias voltage, I don't know. Remember that the max output of 300V is RMS voltage, so you get to a real 230V even faster.


 


  That's what I thought myself, I thought the bias voltage would determine amplitude (efficiency).  I've tried them at fair listening levels (85dB maybe?).  If the only benefit from going to a pro bias is amplitude then I'm not sure I'll bother keeping them.  They're really missing a chunk of the low and mid bass I'm used to and really don't seem to fit the music I'm listening to either (techno, rock, metal, etc).


----------



## svyr

michgelsen said:


> You can all relax now. There is no harm in using pro bias 'phones with normal bias. Stop spreading false information and 'theories'.
> 
> If it were a problem, Stax wouldn't have made the plugs of pro bias earspeakers compatible with the normal bias outputs.
> On amps with both types of outputs, the outputs are the identical except for bias voltage. Pro bias 'phones will therefore receive the same audio signal as normal bias headphones, even when you use pro bias out of the normal bias outputs. Pro bias make the 'phones slighty more efficient, but not much.
> The SRM-T1 (both pro and normal outputs) can deliver more voltage (max 300V) to the stators than the normal bias voltage (230V). If this would be so dangerous, Stax would not have made the amp this way. Whether it would be a problem when the stator voltage becomes higher than the bias voltage, I don't know. Remember that the max output of 300V is RMS voltage, so you get to a real 230V even faster.




your mixing up bias and output voltage. 

Output voltage is your AC L or R +- voltage (signal). It's not the bias voltage (separate pin, different function http://books.google.com.au/books?id=jCUDAAAAMBAJ&pg=RA1-PA167&lpg=RA1-PA167&dq=electrostatic+speaker+bias+voltage+role&source=bl&ots=1XEhbTSSO3&sig=AlSC2SXSSAAbCF86mEGfMhNS2Fk&hl=en&ei=Z1tSTcODEJC8vQPh0oWKCQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CEoQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q&f=false ).


----------



## Shike

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 So how would that impact the headphones then running from normal compared to pro bias?


----------



## svyr

shike said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




beats me. 
When I plugged in my sr404 pro bias to test the normal socket when fixing my srm1 (needed to know if L-L+ and R-R+ were still ok) they sounded like horse crap and they were a lot quieter. I suppose I would first and foremost turn them up a lot louder when using them this way, so maybe that would be the danger. 

If anyone knows whether running at lower bias voltage makes the diaphragm more likely to crash into the stator or something (e.g. as per the alleged role of the bias from the book above),do let us know


----------



## Djarum

Hi Folks,
   
  Got a bit of a problem with my O2 mki, and I've done some quick looking around for potential solutions, but I was hoping to see if anyone had any advice on what to do next. They have a serious channel imbalance (have to turn up the left knob 3 ticks for every 2 ticks on the right knob), and I think the left phone is distorting at high volumes. The problem is definitely in the phones (or cable) since it has the channel imbalance on multiple amps, and other phones don't have a channel imbalance on the amps I've run it on.
   
  I've tried leaving them on for a week, and discharging the bias on both phones, but that hasn't fixed the problem. In fact, when I try to discharge the bias, I either hear little or no pop in the left phone.
   
  This pair has had a channel imbalance before, but it went away after time. This new imbalance has lasted for a couple of months now, though. Could it still be a parasitic charge after all this time, or it is more likely to be a tear? I have run over the cable with my chair before, so could it be a problem with the cable?
   
  Sorry for all the question, but I do so love my O2s. I finally got a KGSS to have a complete static rig, then two weeks later the phones go. D'oh! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give,
  Djarum


----------



## Michgelsen

I'm not mixing those two voltages up. I was responding to deadlylover, who said that the diaphragm may become the negative pole when the voltage on the stators is higher than the bias voltage on the diaphragm. He said 'funky stuff may start happening'. I don't know where he(/she?) bases this on. It's not that positive poles pull harder on the negative poles than the other way around. The both do the same work, so I don't see why it would make a difference.
  Although now that I think of it, it could have the same reason why some capacitors have polarity (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor#Polarity). Electrostatic (ear)speakers are a form of a capacitor. To clarify, this could only be a problem if you play so loud that you effectively change the polarity, and would have nothing to do with the specified bias voltage of the headphones: thus 'real' normal bias 'phones would also be affected.
   
  Perhaps if you read my post again now that I've made it clearer it makes more sense. I was in a hurry when I was typing it, sorry.
   
  When the bias voltage is lower, the efficiency of the 'phones is lower and therefore you need to turn up the volume somewhat. That's all the practical information for the needs of a normal user. There is no harm in using pro bias earspeakers with the normal bias output, only maybe if you play excessively loud, which is never a good idea.


----------



## spritzer

Ok, stuff like this is why I'm writing articles about electrostatics.  The only thing the bias does is to set the sensitivity of the system.  The bias voltage has to be matched to the drive voltages and the diaphragm-stator gap for ultimate performance and so that the drivers don't suffer from arcing but if it is lower then stators "grip" on the diaphragm is diminished.  No way in hell that this will damage the drivers in any way.


----------



## Shike

Thanks spritzer, that's what I was thinking which made me "What" at the manual.  Either way I've ordered a SRD-7 Pro bias from the person that sold me the SR-202's.  If I like the sound I'll keep them if not I'll sell them as a bundle probably.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok, stuff like this is why I'm writing articles about electrostatics.  The only thing the bias does is to set the sensitivity of the system.  The bias voltage has to be matched to the drive voltages and the diaphragm-stator gap for ultimate performance and so that the drivers don't suffer from arcing but if it is lower then stators "grip" on the diaphragm is diminished.  No way in hell that this will damage the drivers in any way.


----------



## Amarphael

I think i also have this problem, albeit very sligthly, with the right channel. It's more noticeable with the KGSS than the SRM-717. I guess it woudn't hurt to open them up and go over the cable conections with some contact cleaner.
  
  Quote: 





djarum said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> Got a bit of a problem with my O2 mki, and I've done some quick looking around for potential solutions, but I was hoping to see if anyone had any advice on what to do next. They have a serious channel imbalance (have to turn up the left knob 3 ticks for every 2 ticks on the right knob), and I think the left phone is distorting at high volumes. The problem is definitely in the phones (or cable) since it has the channel imbalance on multiple amps, and other phones don't have a channel imbalance on the amps I've run it on.
> 
> ...


----------



## svyr

spritzer said:


> Ok, stuff like this is why I'm writing articles about electrostatics.  The only thing the bias does is to set the sensitivity of the system.  The bias voltage has to be matched to the drive voltages and the diaphragm-stator gap for ultimate performance and so that the drivers don't suffer from arcing but if it is lower then stators "grip" on the diaphragm is diminished.  No way in hell that this will damage the drivers in any way.




=) thank you spritzer. I see we've spammed you out of hiding using the 'somebody on the internet is wrong' method  
 (c) xkcd


----------



## Michgelsen

What's the reason for a positive bias voltage? Wouldn't a negative voltage also work?
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok, stuff like this is why I'm writing articles about electrostatics.  The only thing the bias does is to set the sensitivity of the system.  The bias voltage has to be matched to the drive voltages and the diaphragm-stator gap for ultimate performance and so that the drivers don't suffer from arcing but if it is lower then stators "grip" on the diaphragm is diminished.  No way in hell that this will damage the drivers in any way.


----------



## chinsettawong

Bias voltage can be either positive or negative. 
   
  Wachara C.
  
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> What's the reason for a positive bias voltage? Wouldn't a negative voltage also work?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 LOL!  Though I've seen this strip before, the context made my morning


----------



## bobkatz

Of course a negative bias voltage would work. But the absolute polarity of the signal to the ears would be reversed.
   
  BK


----------



## spritzer

Both + and - bias can and has been used but the issue here is dust.  Most of it is + charged (around 80% or so) so the + bias will repel it.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Most household dust is negatively charged (70%+ according to the majority of reputable HVAC filter manufactures).  That is why the electrostatic filters on HVAC systems use positively charged elements to attract and capture the household dust.
   
  However, dust from human skin and hair, as well as fibers from other animals is positively charged:
   
  http://www.siliconfareast.com/tribo_series.htm
   
  So the main question is whether your household dust is a bigger concern for your headphones when they are not being used than the dust from your body when the headphones are on your head.
   
  Roger Sanders switched his commercial electrostatic speakers from positive bias to negative bias years ago because he found dust was the biggest issue for warranty claims.  As houses have more and more synthetic materials and more synthetic clothes are worn, the percentage of negatively charged dust in the air is increasing. 
   
  The ideal solution would probably be to maintain the positive bias in the amp, but have a lower level negative bias supply available on the headphone storage rack.  It would be a PITA to have to discharge and cancel the bias charge every time you switch from listening to storage and back again, but it would mitigate dust issues as much as possible.  I'm not sure if it would have minimal or significant impact to the driver's long term durability.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Most household dust is negatively charged (70%+ according to the majority of reputable HVAC filter manufactures).  That is why the electrostatic filters on HVAC systems use positively charged elements to attract and capture the household dust.
> 
> However, dust from human skin and hair, as well as fibers from other animals is positively charged:
> 
> ...


 

 Hey,
      What was the end result of your Custom ear molds for your Stax?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> Hey,
> What was the end result of your Custom ear molds for your Stax?


 

 The first pair proved it is feasible and worthy of further pursuit.  I'm scheduled for a second ear impression next week.  The issue was the way Starky molded the tips.  They pulled the driver too far out of the ear and made it flush or parallel to the side of my head instead of following the straight, angled line of sight down the ear canal.  They were trying to hide or stealth the tip.  That bend caused the midrange to be recessed and it was a little wonky too.  So now we're going to actually insert the 001 driver into the molding material and set the proper angles in the ear impression before shipping those to Starky for round two.  I'm confident they'll be dialed in, even if it takes 3 or 4 passes to mail it down, but for the money I spent, I expect perfect tips.


----------



## les_garten

Thanx fpr the Update!
   
  I have some 003s and am very interested in how this shakes out.   I've been using ear molds since 1989 for various things so am used to them quite a bit.  I have one from Averysound on my Jawbone BT headset and it is awesome.  I definitely am down for a Stax Ear mold.


----------



## Djarum

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely give that a try. Embarassing question this, but how do you safely open up O2? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I did a couple of quick searches, but failed to find any instructions, somehow.
  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> I think i also have this problem, albeit very sligthly, with the right channel. It's more noticeable with the KGSS than the SRM-717. I guess it woudn't hurt to open them up and go over the cable conections with some contact cleaner.


----------



## gnnett

Hi
   
  Have a set of lamda basics that I wish to use with SRD7. The later has standard bias and think I would like to upgrade bias supply to pro (525V?) but do not know how. Options are modify the existing supply, use the supply part from 202 amplifier, or make a new bias supply. The later option is prefered and having seen that Audio Consulting are using battery supply for their stax amp would think this might be the easiest option. Any advice?
   
  Regards
   
  Grant


----------



## John Buchanan

Send a PM to Spritzer to see if he has any of his Pro bias boards left for SRD-6 or SRD-7. I bought one - it was cheap, not nasty and works exceptionally well.


----------



## vrln

Anyone have experiences with the new SRM-323S? It seems to have pretty good output voltage, is affordable, is solid state (no tube issues so safer to import) and on paper seems to be a good match for the new Lambda SR-507.
   
  Any opinions on this pairing? The only STAX experience I have is that I´ve heard a 404/SR-006 combo once and loved it.
   
  PS: I tried to google this, but without success... Has there ever been a SRM-323M? PriceJapan has that in their list. I assume it´s a typo, meaning the SRM-323S?


----------



## livewire

The "M" is the Japanese version - 100 volt AC mains input.
   
  The "S" is the USA version - 120 volt AC mains input.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





gnnett said:


> Hi
> 
> Have a set of lamda basics that I wish to use with SRD7. The later has standard bias and think I would like to upgrade bias supply to pro (525V?) but do not know how. Options are modify the existing supply, use the supply part from 202 amplifier, or make a new bias supply. The later option is prefered and having seen that Audio Consulting are using battery supply for their stax amp would think this might be the easiest option. Any advice?
> 
> ...


 
   
  Are those normal or pro bias phones?  PM me if you want to buy either a Stax SRD-7 Pro (with 2 pro) or an SRD-7 Mk2 (with pro and normal).  These are stock and unmodded with Pro bias.


----------



## livewire

Lambda Basics are pro bias (five pin).


----------



## rgs9200m

Is it just me, but does anyone think Staxes are just plain uncomfortable?
  I had both Lambda Nova Signatures and the Omega 2s and
  thought they felt like they clipped the edges of my ears and pressed them against my head, and the cushioning was terrible (like there was a hard object pressing right behind the leather).
  In contrast, I find Senn  HD800s, Beyer T1s,  Grado PS1000s, and even the heavy Audeze LCD2s very comfortable, even for long sessions.
   
  I like the Stax sound, but why it is so hard for them to make them feel good? I see that Driftwood above also thinks they are uncomfortable. I thought I was the only one.
  Thanks in advance for any thoughts here.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Is it just me, but does anyone think Staxes are just plain uncomfortable?
> I had both Lambda Nova Signatures and the Omega 2s and
> thought they felt like they clipped the edges of my ears and pressed them against my head, and the cushioning was terrible (like there was a hard object pressing right behind the leather).
> In contrast, I find Senn  HD800s, Beyer T1s,  Grado PS1000s, and even the heavy Audeze LCD2s very comfortable, even for long sessions.
> ...


 

 The Omega 2s are the most comfortable headphones I have ever worn, certainly much better than any Beyer, Denon, or Sennheiser I've had on my head. I can't stand wearing Grados. My Sony 7509s are fairly comfortable due to their lightweight and limited clamping, but the materials quality is pretty lousy. The Omega2s feel as expensive as they are.


----------



## livewire

I have the Lambda Basic SR-202.
  They have to be the fugliest things I have ever put on my head
  but are the most comfortable for me. I forget that I am wearing them.
  I have yet to try / own the O2's. Someday...


----------



## n3rdling

All Stax are very comfortable for me, even the Sigmas are some of the most comfy headphones out there.


----------



## plaidplatypus

The SR-003 bothered me a little, I don't like things sitting inside my ear.  The SR-007 was not my favorite because the ear pads don't breath well, If I lived in Iceland I'd have to reconsider them though.  Lambdas and Sigmas with pads that are still fluffy I find quite fairly comfortable.  The HE60 is my favorite as it has cloth on the ear pads where it touches skin.
   
  For the most part STAX quality in sound makes up for what they lack in comfort.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The Omega 2s are the most comfortable headphones I have ever worn, certainly much better than any Beyer, Denon, or Sennheiser I've had on my head. I can't stand wearing Grados. My Sony 7509s are fairly comfortable due to their lightweight and limited clamping, but the materials quality is pretty lousy. The Omega2s feel as expensive as they are.


 


  Ditto the Omega 2. I also liked the fit & feel of the 404LEs I tried at CanJam.  My vintage Stax phones are also comfortable for me. Perhaps the arcs need to be adjusted, but no one headphone can fit every head.


----------



## corsair287

I'm considering getting a stax earspeaker system and i noticed that they have recently launched an update in November 2010. The old 3030 classic (SRS 303 + SRM 313) and the 4040 signature (SRS 404 and SRM 006t) (as compared here: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/stax/stax.html) are now being replaced by the 3170 (SR-307 + SRM-323S) and 4170 (SR-407 + SRM-006tS). Confusingly, I have also found another two systems, the SRS 3050A (SRS 303 + SRM 323A) http://www.stax.co.jp/Japan/srs3050a.html and SRS 4040A (SR-404 + SRM-006tA)(http://www.stax.co.jp/Japan/srs4040a.html). Can anyone tell me the difference between these headphones and amps because I could not find relevant information despite extensive search on the forum and the net. What's different between the SR 303 and SR 307/ 404 and 407, and the differences between the amps? Also, where does the SRS 3010 stands between these models? Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks again!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





plaidplatypus said:


> The SR-003 bothered me a little, I don't like things sitting inside my ear.  The SR-007 was not my favorite because the ear pads don't breath well, If I lived in Iceland I'd have to reconsider them though.  Lambdas and Sigmas with pads that are still fluffy I find quite fairly comfortable.  The HE60 is my favorite as it has cloth on the ear pads where it touches skin.
> 
> For the most part STAX quality in sound makes up for what they lack in comfort.


 

 Ditto - HE60 are the most comfortable I've owned not just because of the pads but also because they are so lightweight.  Nevertheless, I find the O2 mk1 more comfortable than my Lambdas because of the leather pads breathing more than vinyl pads.


----------



## n3rdling

HE90 is the most comfy I've worn.


----------



## spritzer

The arc on the SR-007 is supposed to be bent to fit the users head.  I can't use a stock Mk1 but my heavily modified set fits me like a glove.  Sounds far better too when it fits you properly.


----------



## rgs9200m

Thanks for the responses on the comfort issue. My R10s are the comfort kings for me, also RS1s with flats, and Beyer T1s feel really nice also (being so light, lighter than the O2s, I think).


----------



## Driftwood

The SR-001 is the only Stax headphone I feel is particularly uncomfortable. The SR-007 is quite comfortable, perhaps the most comfortable of any headphone I've tried. However, I don't really have comfort problems with many non-in-ear headphones, even Grados which are considered notoriously uncomfortable seem fine to me. If you are having trouble with the SR-007, I'd try bending them like Spritzer advises, the fit and sound of the SR-007 is greatly dependent on positioning.


----------



## MrGreen

I can't account for HE60 and HE90, but I find the stax I have worn (lambda and omega 2) more comfortable than it. I think I prefer the lambdas fit because of the omegas cables. The lambdas and omegas are some of hte most comfortable headphones I have worn. The lambda maybe more comfortable than AD900.

 I didn't find the baby stax particularly uncomfortable, but I do use etymotic headphones a lot so there you go


----------



## rgs9200m

Thanks Mr. Green and others. My ears are bigger that the ear openings in the pads of the SR007 Omega, and the opening is so shallow that my ear touches the driver surface.
  But my ears fit fine in my T1s (and HD800s), so I don't think my ears are freakishly large (no elephant ears).


----------



## edstrelow

The most comfortable phones to wear are probably the Sigmas because nothing touches the ear at all.  They also remain cool in hot weather because the earcup is so open.  However being fairly bulky they tend to slide off the head so you don't want to dance around with them on.  I guess my old Jecklin Floats were even better  since nothing would touch the head if you listened lying down with the phones supported by a pillow. If you listened sitting up they were extremely wobbly and heavy.
   
  The Lambdas and  007A have somewhat small space for the ear and and are not fully comfortable for that reason.  Also some people may find that their ear touches the inside foam or cloth and that is often bothersome.  Overall though these complaints are fairly minor and these phones are not really hard to wear.
   
  The SR003 is very light and that is good but when I got my first pair they were excrutiating after about 20 minutes because they press on a small portion of the ear around the opening of the ear canal.  However simply bending the metal arc/headband  solved the problem.  I seem to have seen a number of people complain about these phones who apparently haven't tried to bend the band.
   
  I am always surprised when I find out that some TOL phone is uncomfortable to wear.  It probably fit the guy who was in charge of getting them out but to be unaware or indifferent to the varieties of head and ear sizes is just negligent.  I would rate Stax overall about B or B+ on headphone comfort.    Koss would get an A for their ESP 950.  It was light and comfortable and had more ear-room than most Stax except the Sigma.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *edstrelow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The Lambdas and  007A have somewhat small space for the ear and and are not fully comfortable for that reason.  Also some people may find that their ear touches the inside foam or cloth and that is often bothersome.  Overall though these complaints are fairly minor and these phones are not really hard to wear.


 

 I find that the width of the space is not as much as an issue as the phones flexing down too far (when they are loose/old) and putting pressure on the top of the ears.
   
  Not all pairs do this in my small experience.


----------



## Driftwood

edstrelow said:


> The SR003 is very light and that is good but when I got my first pair they were excrutiating after about 20 minutes because they press on a small portion of the ear around the opening of the ear canal.  However simply bending the metal arc/headband  solved the problem.  I seem to have seen a number of people complain about these phones who apparently haven't tried to bend the band.




Thanks for the tip, I'll admit I hadn't tried bending the band since wearing the headphones even without the band wasn't all that comfortable. However since my discomfort is just as you describe and bending the band seemed to fix it for you I'm definitely willing to give it a try.


----------



## catscratch

The only thing that bothers me about O2 comfort is the self-adjusting headband. On the Mk1 it's a little too loose and on the Mk2 it was too tight. Maybe it loosens up over time. In any case, bending the headband to give more clamping force was the key and it fits very well now and is one of the most comfortable headphones I've ever worn.
   
  The Lamdas were universally comfortable for me but the earcups are somewhat shallow, and if you have massive elephant ears they will rub against the inside foam. It can get itchy after a while. Also they could use more clamping force.
   
  The 003 [is bad] and there's no way IMO to make it really comfortable, but I could make it bearable. I don't use the headband. I have to use a slightly larger eartip size in one ear than the other to get it to stay put, but in the end it sounds better and fits better too. For about 2 hours it's tolerable but after that it's like having drill bits in your ears.
   
  I wish everything could fit like the HD650 but I did notice that I like a bit more clamping force in general. Maybe listening to lots of psytrance and dancing around like mad half the time has something to do with that.


----------



## arnaud

Am I going to inaugurate the 1000th page of this thread? I take my chance 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
   
  Ditto all that's been said about comfort of Stax Omega 2, I like them better than most dynamic headphones I've owned. I have small ears so I guess it explains. Try some Edition 9, even my ear felt cramped in there! Or the K701, what a terrible headband design, it was soo painful after half an hour.


----------



## K3cT

Any news on a definitive release date for the C32 yet, Arnaud?


----------



## arnaud

Sorry, no news here. I would post as soon as I see anything!


----------



## Clarkmc2

A friend of mine was in LA this week to work on a film. He had time on his way out to drop by a Stax dealer. The probable price the dealer heard for the C32 was $6000 US. I hope that either that is wrong, or the exchange rate changes for the better. $4000 is a lot, but it would be better.
   
  He also had the usual horror stories to tell about Yama's.


----------



## AudioCats

any news on the new portable amp? (the amp that is supposed to take SRM-001's spot)


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Am I going to inaugurate the 1000th page of this thread? I take my chance
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  1000 pages, yeh! 

  
  Quote: 





			
				arnaud said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Ditto all that's been said about comfort of Stax Omega 2, I like them better than most dynamic headphones I've owned. I have small ears so I guess it explains. Try some Edition 9, even my ear felt cramped in there! Or the K701, what a terrible headband design, it was soo painful after half an hour.


 
   
  I hated the comfort of the 701s, not sure who designed those things with the bumps on the top.
   
  I find all stax comfortable, including the SR-003! The lambda design is so simple, lightweight and comfy (if you dont have big ears ).


----------



## arnaud

ahhhhhh!


----------



## vrln

A quick question... I´d appreciate it a lot if someone answers fast, as I have an opportunity to get a used STAX amp and I have to decide tomorrow.
   
  Can 230V euro XLR polarity STAX amps use STAX earspeakers imported from Japan? I know the Japanese STAX amps use a different XLR polarity that makes DAC pairing hard in same cases, but is the actual headphone cable pin order exactly the same? (in other words, compatible with any STAX amp with PRO BIAS)


----------



## Michgelsen

YES, all pro bias amps are compatible with all pro bias headphones.


----------



## complin

Rudistor have discontinued their Electrostatic Amp production as of end of 2010
   
   http://www.rudistor.com/soundsystems/electrost.htm


----------



## kgreene

I have been lurking here on head-fi off and on for several years and read I don't know how many threads lately for the past few weeks... I have finally been looking into getting some entry level stax but I think my initial budget (which was originally for some mid level senns) is probably too low (<$200).  What is a reasonable expectation to have for an entry level set of stax (or other electrostatic perhaps) headphones and either an energizer or amp?  
   
  It looks like amps tend to cost quite a bit more and I do have a receiver I could use for now with an energizer.  The main thing is, I intend to use this at work (closed office door so sound leakage isn't a problem) and I plan on having them on most of the day so they need to be comfortable (amusing that this issue has been discussed recently).  For me, that usually means circumaural.  From my understanding, the lambdas are, as well as the gammas/alphas.  Are there any other stax that would qualify (in the lower budget range that is , I doubt it's worth discussing the higher end in this case! )  I've been unable to tell for sure if the SR-3s are or not.
   
  I'm OK with them not looking perfect as long as they sound OK, but I'm not sure how much that would tend to drop the price if at all.
   
  I've read conflicting comments on whether gammas (which appear to possibly be reachable in my range, at least I had found some historically) are worth it sound wise compared with lambdas.  This would be my first higher-end setup so in truth I'd probably be happy with even the lower end stax...  
   
  Thanks for any help!


----------



## scompton

The SR-3 is circumaural and comfortable.  As for are the Gammas worth it, I like them better than the SR-3, SR-5, and SR-X MkIII.  The Lambdas are a step up, but also out of your price range unless you get very lucky.


----------



## Pabro

I'm so glad to have the chance to leave my footprint on the 1000th page!
   
  I recently bought a SRM-323S. I like a little tube sound in my setup, so I ordered a Scott Nixon Tube Dac. So far I plan to use ordinary toslink and cable to link the system with my Mac laptop. I think I'll buy a SR-404 or 407 in the near future, to complete my system.
   
  Can anyone comment on this system, please? I mainly listen to Classical music.
   
  So excited to become a member in the ES headphone family!


----------



## livewire

@ Pabro -  I cant speak firsthand about your proposed system, but I know you are gonna love it!
  There has been much written about the SRM323 and the 404's, do a search.
   
  @ kgreene - If you are willing to spend ~$400 and have a little patience and are quick with the trigger finger,
  one could find a used Stax SRS-2050 system (what I have) best bang for the buck. Sounds awesome!
  Recently, one just sold here at HF for $350. Other places to look are Audiogon and ebay.
  Another alternative in that price range would be a used Koss ESP950 setup.
   
  This is just my opinion, I would stay away from the really old stuff, such as electret models.
  They just dont hold up over time. When they break, there are no repair parts out there
  other than another old unit to serve as a parts donor. I'm also not a fan of the transformer "energizer"  boxes.
  They are well built but dont have the sonic capabilities that the more modern (and higher priced) amplifier boxes do.


----------



## jjinh

+1 for the SRS2050 system. Great entry into the world of Stax


----------



## livewire

@ jjinh - (off topic)
  I meant to say thanks for the explanation on Lysol Jones' artwork. Cool stuff!


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





livewire said:


> @ jjinh - (off topic)
> I meant to say thanks for the explanation on Lysol Jones' artwork. Cool stuff!


 
   
  Glad I could help. I assume you've found the original here.


----------



## livewire

Yeah, what a concept!


----------



## Pabro

@ livewire: Thanks for the advice!
   
  Has anyone bought stuffs from EIFL recently? I learned from the STAX threads here that they offer very good deals on STAX earspeakers and amp. I googled the website and sent a few inquiry for a quote, yet didn't hear back from them. In addition, I kept reading people mentioned dealing with a guy named Koji, yet I can't find his contact info. Are they still in business? Any info will be appreciated.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  http://www.eifl.co.jp/index/export/stax/stax.htm


----------



## Duggeh

1000 pages eh? Madness.
   
  As for Rudistor being out of the game? Good. He built dangerous, unreliable, overpriced crap.


----------



## wind016

And Singlepower's been out too. Who's left to build a decent Stax Omega amplifier???? I have an Omega coming and nothing to plug it into...
   
  KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


----------



## Region2

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> And Singlepower's been out too. Who's left to build a decent Stax Omega amplifier???? I have an Omega coming and nothing to plug it into...
> 
> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 


  wow, you jumped past the Omega 2 for the more elusive Omega, impressive.
   
  There are other options like trying to build yourself an amp.  Or you can try to get some feelers out for a builder to put one together for you.  But I understand, I bought my SR007mk1 before I had anything to drive it.  Now I'm working on an amp or two to get the most out of the O2.
   
  Good luck!


----------



## wind016

Whoops OMG. The Omega naming system is annoying. I meant Omega 2 MK 1 haha
   
  I actually preferred the MK1 over the Omega. Thanks for the wishes. My electrical engineering skills are non-existent.... 
  
  Quote: 





region2 said:


> wow, you jumped past the Omega 2 for the more elusive Omega, impressive.
> 
> There are other options like trying to build yourself an amp.  Or you can try to get some feelers out for a builder to put one together for you.  But I understand, I bought my SR007mk1 before I had anything to drive it.  Now I'm working on an amp or two to get the most out of the O2.
> 
> Good luck!


----------



## TIMITS

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> And Singlepower's been out too. Who's left to build a decent Stax Omega amplifier???? I have an Omega coming and nothing to plug it into...
> 
> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 
   
  I am currently on the savings track for something like the SR-507 and the KGSS but to hear that there is a 2 year wait is discouraging news.  This is going to illustrate my ignorance about Stax headphone amplifier options but are Electrostatic speaker amplifiers an option?  I was looking at this recently - totally out of my price range but there may be other amps available at something more realistic: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/products/amplifiers/esl-amp
   
  I've been following the HE-6 comments lately with folks keen on using speaker amps and getting good results.  Is something like the above even remotely possible?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 
  Where did you hear the KGSS's lead time is 2 years?


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





lil' knight said:


> Where did you hear the KGSS's lead time is 2 years?


 

 http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/531743/new-listening-impressions-of-stax-c32-prototype/90#post_7178590
   
  Well here is one though probably exaggerated and for the BHSE. Still built by Justin so I don't expect the KGSS to be somehow fast to finish. I don't think I can wait even half a year (which seems to be the under-estimated estimate) for an amp if I don't have anything... However, I seem to have found someone that will sell me a good amp.


----------



## Lil' Knight

If I don't mistaken, Justin already has the boards stuffed so it won't be that long. I'd just buy a 717 or 727 to fool around during the waiting and sell it later for what you bought. Rarely lose a penny.


----------



## tigon_ridge

sr-003 vs sr-202/sr-207 (can only afford either srs-005s or srs-2170)
   
  Which has less colored vocal range (read: no added warmth/fullness)? Thanks


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> sr-003 vs sr-202/sr-207 (can only afford either srs-005s or srs-2170)
> 
> Which has less colored vocal range (read: no added warmth/fullness)? Thanks


 

  
  I'd go the lambdas. The lambdas all have a pretty natural vocal range (i.e. not artifically bloated/heavy) and are all fairly similar in response - just slight differences.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 

 I know what you mean, believe me. Frankly the KGSS-HV is a much better option at this point anyway. If you are unable to build your own, you can likely find a builder for one. Also, if I remember right Spritzer may be willing to fix SRM-727s so they actually sound good.
   
  There is also still Woo and RSA, although they are not up to the BHSE level.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





timits said:


> I am currently on the savings track for something like the SR-507 and the KGSS but to hear that there is a 2 year wait is discouraging news.  This is going to illustrate my ignorance about Stax headphone amplifier options but are Electrostatic speaker amplifiers an option?  I was looking at this recently - totally out of my price range but there may be other amps available at something more realistic: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/products/amplifiers/esl-amp
> 
> I've been following the HE-6 comments lately with folks keen on using speaker amps and getting good results.  Is something like the above even remotely possible?


 

 Seems possible since Woo Audio made something like the WEE, but it's way over my head. I would like to know too.
   


  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I know what you mean, believe me. Frankly the KGSS-HV is a much better option at this point anyway. If you are unable to build your own, you can likely find a builder for one. Also, if I remember right Spritzer may be willing to fix SRM-727s so they actually sound good.


 


  Didn't Spritzer leave due to some arguments with some Head-fiers? That would be a shame.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> Didn't Spritzer leave due to some arguments with some Head-fiers? That would be a shame.


 

 No, he's still here. The 727 is definitely the fastest way to get an amp capable of driving the O2, so it would be nice if he'll comment on whether he's willing to apply his fix to the amp's feedback.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





vrln said:


> A quick question... I´d appreciate it a lot if someone answers fast, as I have an opportunity to get a used STAX amp and I have to decide tomorrow.
> 
> Can 230V euro XLR polarity STAX amps use STAX earspeakers imported from Japan? I know the Japanese STAX amps use a different XLR polarity that makes DAC pairing hard in same cases, but is the actual headphone cable pin order exactly the same? (in other words, compatible with any STAX amp with PRO BIAS)


 

 You can reverse the polarity with a bit of tweaking added to the interconnect cable, this is how my friend uses it after he noticed this accidentally and now XLR sounds better.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> sr-003 vs sr-202/sr-207 (can only afford either srs-005s or srs-2170)
> 
> Which has less colored vocal range (read: no added warmth/fullness)? Thanks


 

 The SR-003 has a warmer midrange for sure (quite similar to the O2 IMO). As for which one is the least colored, I think it's debatable. The Lambdas sound more colored to my ears because of the lack of low mids.


----------



## tigon_ridge

Quote: 





mobbaddict said:


> The SR-003 has a warmer midrange for sure (quite similar to the O2 IMO). As for which one is the least colored, I think it's debatable. The Lambdas sound more colored to my ears because of the lack of low mids.


 

 I find excess low-mids and lack of high-mids more atmospheric, but less onstage, intimate and engaging. I just want the ones most faithful to the recording.


----------



## spritzer

I'm still here but just to be clear, I have never and will never modify amplifiers for other people.  All the gear I mod is mine and then sold once I'm done with it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





kgreene said:


> I have been lurking here on head-fi off and on for several years and read I don't know how many threads lately for the past few weeks... I have finally been looking into getting some entry level stax but I think my initial budget (which was originally for some mid level senns) is probably too low (<$200).  What is a reasonable expectation to have for an entry level set of stax (or other electrostatic perhaps) headphones and either an energizer or amp?
> 
> It looks like amps tend to cost quite a bit more and I do have a receiver I could use for now with an energizer.  The main thing is, I intend to use this at work (closed office door so sound leakage isn't a problem) and I plan on having them on most of the day so they need to be comfortable (amusing that this issue has been discussed recently).  For me, that usually means circumaural.  From my understanding, the lambdas are, as well as the gammas/alphas.  Are there any other stax that would qualify (in the lower budget range that is , I doubt it's worth discussing the higher end in this case! )  I've been unable to tell for sure if the SR-3s are or not.
> 
> ...


 


 In that  price range I would recommend one of the SR3/SR5 phones which you can probably get with a transformer.  For what it's worth I am considering selling my SR5 and SRD-6 mains-biased energizer  for a bit less than $200.00.  The phones are one of the most comfortable that Stax put out and the sound is pretty nicely balanced, i.e no nasty peaks or dips that I can detect.  You may also find the old Stax portable amps SRDX and the like, often for less than $100.00.  You can run them from the mains or use 8 C cells for poratble use.
   
   
  Quote:


pabro said:


> @ livewire: Thanks for the advice!
> 
> Has anyone bought stuffs from EIFL recently? I learned from the STAX threads here that they offer very good deals on STAX earspeakers and amp. I googled the website and sent a few inquiry for a quote, yet didn't hear back from them. In addition, I kept reading people mentioned dealing with a guy named Koji, yet I can't find his contact info. Are they still in business? Any info will be appreciated.
> 
> ...


 


 I bought  an 007A, 717 amp and  a few other things from them and found them quite reliable.  You may have to wave some money in front of them to get a reply.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> In that  price range I would recommend one of the SR3/SR5 phones which you can probably get with a transformer.  For what it's worth I am considering selling my SR5 and SRD-6 mains-biased energizer  for a bit less than $200.00.  The phones are one of the most comfortable that Stax put out and the sound is pretty nicely balanced, i.e no nasty peaks or dips that I can detect.  You may also find the old Stax portable amps SRDX and the like, often for less than $100.00.  You can run them from the mains or use 8 C cells for poratble use.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> ...


 


  Eifll and Stax's webpages...
   
  WTH is up with them?
   
  They don't have ANY website designers in ALL of the Japanese Empire?  I guess that's what happens when you lose the war!
   
  Those websites are right out of 1994!  Designed by a 16 year old in 1994...
   
  Those 2 websites suck a root!
   
  And it's not like they are showcasing Widgets for a half a cent a piece, these are seriously expensive products.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> Eifll and Stax's webpages...
> 
> WTH is up with them?
> 
> ...


 


 I don't get it either.  The Stax History hasn't been updated since 2007.
   
  However, I don't think it's a good idea to bring up the Second World War.  They may have lost but we are buying their stuff which is better than ours!
   
  This reminds me of an incident I had this past summer in Paris.  I had just arrived with my family by train from London and needed to check a map to figure out where our hotel was.  We popped into a McDonalds across the street to get some air conditioning since it was a very hot day. I was accosted by 2 middle-aged American women who on hearing me talking to one of my daughters asked "Are you Americans?" and then proceeded to tells us about how bad the French were.  Their punch line, delivered loudly in a crowded restaurant,  was:
   
"*and if it wasn't for us they'd be speaking German now and in my opinion that wouldn't be a bad thing!  The Germans at least  are hospitable*!"  
   
  I tried to make myself invisible and said "don't say things like that here!"  Our own experience was quite the opposite, no bad encounters, people in the street being helpful  etc.  I thought if these ladies were talking like that to the locals it was not surprising they would have  a hard time.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I don't get it either.  The Stax History hasn't been updated since 2007.
> 
> However, I don't think it's a good idea to bring up the Second World War.  They may have lost but we are buying their stuff which is better than ours!
> 
> ...


 


  Yeah, except I was making a Joke...
   
  A joke about the war, not about the website...
   
  I hope they neither of them didn't pay more than $50 for those sites.  This has nothing to do with no update since 2007 either.  I would be ashamed of that degree in site development in 1994, no kidding.  I was doing websites in 1994, and I wouldn't have spilled that Flotsam out there. Really embarrasing pages for a Hi-Tech product lineup.


----------



## jjinh

You should have said you were Canadian


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> They don't have ANY website designers in ALL of the Japanese Empire?


 

 That's really not fair. Luxman and Esoteric both have perfectly fine if not incredible flash heavy websites. Obviously Stax doesn't feel that their website is particularly important. Frankly if the choice is "build a new site", or "design some new amps", I'd much rather they work on their amps. Websites from the dark ages are not exclusive to Japan either.
   
  Spectral makes some of the best high-end components in America, and their website looks like it was designed by a high school kid in an Intro to HTML class.
   
  http://www.spectralaudio.com/


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> This reminds me of an incident I had this past summer in Paris.  I had just arrived with my family by train from London and needed to check a map to figure out where our hotel was.  We popped into a McDonalds across the street to get some air conditioning since it was a very hot day. I was accosted by 2 middle-aged American women who on hearing me talking to one of my daughters asked "Are you Americans?" and then proceeded to tells us about how bad the French were.  Their punch line, delivered loudly in a crowded restaurant,  was:
> 
> "*and if it wasn't for us they'd be speaking German now and in my opinion that wouldn't be a bad thing!  The Germans at least  are hospitable*!"
> 
> I tried to make myself invisible and said "don't say things like that here!"  Our own experience was quite the opposite, no bad encounters, people in the street being helpful  etc.  I thought if these ladies were talking like that to the locals it was not surprising they would have  a hard time.


 

 My experience in France is that if you make even the barest minimum effort to use a few French words and not butcher them, the French are very nice and perfectly hospitable. As little as bonjour and merci should be enough. On the other hand, if you start your interaction with "ya'll have merloT here?" things may not go as well. Frankly I'm not surprised that those types of Americans were found in a McDonald's. The highlight of their vacation was probably seeing what the differences were on the menu.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> That's really not fair. Luxman and Esoteric both have perfectly fine if not incredible flash heavy websites. Obviously Stax doesn't feel that their website is particularly important. Frankly if the choice is "build a new site", or "design some new amps", I'd much rather they work on their amps. Websites from the dark ages are not exclusive to Japan either.
> 
> Spectral makes some of the best high-end components in America, and their website looks like it was designed by a high school kid in an Intro to HTML class.
> 
> http://www.spectralaudio.com/


 

 You're right. I just checked out the Spectral site. Spectral has been in decline since their heyday in the 80s and, maybe, early 90s.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> You're right. I just checked out the Spectral site. Spectral has been in decline since their heyday in the 80s and, maybe, early 90s.


 

 A new DAC from Spectral would certainly be nice. The SDR-2000 Pro is pretty legendary among vintage DACs, but they decided not to do a follow up because they didn't feel that S/Pdif was up to their standards. Granted its not perfect, but with BNC and a high quality digital receiver, other companies have managed to get by with it. The SDR-4000 may be nice, but it's a dead end.


----------



## les_garten

OK AudiioPhools, let me explain the Joke,   Jeebus Christ!!
   
  The Joke was...
   
  A REALLY High Tech Japanese product is represented REALLY Poorly in HTML.  Abysmally in fact.
   
  That's called IRONY!
   
  Get it!
   
  Then the connection I made of the word Japanese to the word Empire.
   
  Then the connection to WWII and the loss of said war.
   
  Then the Joke of, I guess they don't have any website designers, because they lost...  And we got them all...
   
  Ahhhh, Never Mind...
   
_Jumpin_' _Jehosifat_!
   
  The Political Correctness Police and the Website Surveyors can go back to whatever rhey were doing before.
   
  Lay on MacDuff...


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> OK AudiioPhools, let me explain the Joke,   Jeebus Christ!!
> 
> The Joke was...
> 
> ...


 

 I'm offended by your Anti-Asian comments!    Muahaha  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  My Stax O2s are coming! hehe For now, I'd just be able to put them on my head, turn on my computer speakers and pretend that I'm listening to music through them.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> I'm offended by your Anti-Asian comments!    Muahaha
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I don't suppose you are a website developer are you?
   
  I know I can come up with 2 referrals off the top of my head...
   
  Will that make up for it?


----------



## wink

les_garten speaks truth.
   
  keep at it, les.
   
  If they don't get it, they don't have it.
   
  As an anonymous modern prophet once stated:
   
  "To get where I'm going to, you have to be where I'm at. Can you see where I'm going?".


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





wink said:


> les_garten speaks truth.
> 
> 
> 
> *"To get where I'm going to, you have to be where I'm at. Can you see where I'm going?".*


 


  I didn't understand this till I hit myslef twice in the head with my 1.54 Gigawatt Tesla Coil.
   
  Clear as Crystal now, Thanx!
   
  Here's the actual Photograph of my moment of Enlightenment:
   

   
   
  My Right foot is a little sore for some reason though...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





les_garten said:


> The Joke was...


 

 Just not that funny. Yes, Stax's website sucks. Compared to operations like Sennheiser, Stax is teeny tiny. I would much rather they devote what resources they have to building world conquering headphones. Sony can't be bothered, Sennheiser isn't interested in stats, and Ultrasone seems to be mostly concerned about how shiny the baffles are. Waiting for the ED10 Unobtanium Edition. Grado's website may not be quite as bad, but it's still fairly terrible even by the standards of 10 years ago. What's their excuse?


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





pabro said:


> @ livewire: Thanks for the advice!
> 
> Has anyone bought stuffs from EIFL recently? I learned from the STAX threads here that they offer very good deals on STAX earspeakers and amp. I googled the website and sent a few inquiry for a quote, yet didn't hear back from them. In addition, I kept reading people mentioned dealing with a guy named Koji, yet I can't find his contact info. Are they still in business? Any info will be appreciated.
> 
> ...


 

 You should use their "inquiry" form (if you didn't), rather than their email address.  And direct your inquiry to Koji.  I got a response within an hour via that technique.
   
  HOWEVER... you'll be disappointed to find that their prices are "way higher" than those listed on their web site.  A $1900 007 is actually $2300.  Either a "way dated" web site... or... the old "bait and switch" game.  Either way - I'll take a pass!


----------



## vrln

Finally took the brave step and submitted my application to the STAX mafia. My SRM-600 + SR-507 should arrive next week


----------



## Beefy

Like for Bond achieving 00 status, you do not get your full entry to the mafia until you kill two dynamic headphones.
  
  Quote: 





vrln said:


> Finally took the brave step and submitted my application to the STAX mafia. My SRM-600 + SR-507 should arrive next week


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





vrln said:


> Finally took the brave step and submitted my application to the STAX mafia. My SRM-600 + SR-507 should arrive next week


 


  Nice pick   Let us know what you think when you get it.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Like for Bond achieving 00 status, you do not get your full entry to the mafia until you kill two dynamic headphones.


 

  
  I don't see that as much of a requirement.
   
  You usually have to _*Liquidate*_ about 4 sets of good canz to be able to afford them!


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Nice pick   Let us know what you think when you get it.


 

 Thanks + sure! I´ve only heard a 404 Signature system with the 006 tube hybrid amp before. Already loved that (so effortless, polite and crystal clear), even though it´s considered to be a flawed STAX product compared to the 404LE etc  The SRM-600 seemed like a good choice as it´ll have nice resale value, and in specs is close to the top of the line 007 amp (340 voltage swing and same distortion rate). I´ll admit the whole "only 600 made" is a nice bonus too. STAX has also been demonstrating the 507 with the SRM-600, and I read a few positive comments about the pairing.


----------



## complin

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> And Singlepower's been out too. Who's left to build a decent Stax Omega amplifier???? I have an Omega coming and nothing to plug it into...
> 
> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 

 Well there are also these
http://www.mcalisteraudio.com/
  
http://www.dddac.de/tp08.htm


----------



## Lil' Knight

I'd rather use a Stax amp than McAlister's stuff.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> You should use their "inquiry" form (if you didn't), rather than their email address.  And direct your inquiry to Koji.  I got a response within an hour via that technique.
> 
> HOWEVER... you'll be disappointed to find that their prices are "way higher" than those listed on their web site.  A $1900 007 is actually $2300.  Either a "way dated" web site... or... the old "bait and switch" game.  Either way - I'll take a pass!


 


 That is bad about the price changes.  That did not happen with me when I have dealt with EIFL.  Possibly due to the appreciation of the Yen vs the US $. 
   
  When I bought my 007A from them it was $1,820.00, shipping included, but that was in 2008.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





lil' knight said:


> I'd rather use a Stax amp than McAlister's stuff.


 

 That seems to be the consensus here =/
   
  More options would be great though...


----------



## Duggeh

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> That seems to be the consensus here =/
> 
> More options would be great though...


 

 Why, are you hoping that theres a different opinion which lets you buy one?


----------



## tigon_ridge

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> That seems to be the consensus here =/
> 
> More options would be great though...


 


  umm...whats wrong with their stuff?


----------



## Gradofan2

Has anyone purchased any Stax products through "Alibaba.com," or a company named "Adi Dinamika" in Jakarta?
   
  They're prices are great - perhaps, to good to be true. 
   
  No matter how great their prices, I won't be buying anything from them, unless I can do so with PayPal, or MasterCard with full buyer protection.


----------



## wind016

gradofan2 said:


> Has anyone purchased any Stax products through "Alibaba.com," or a company named "Adi Dinamika" in Jakarta?
> 
> They're prices are great - perhaps, to good to be true.
> 
> No matter how great their prices, I won't be buying anything from them, unless I can do so with PayPal, or MasterCard with full buyer protection.




I dunno about that. It says you need to buy minimum of 2 sets and that they get 120 sets a week. Looks pretty sketchy


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  It says minimum 1 unit.
   
*NB:* I know nothing about buying from Alibaba.com and Adi DinamikaI. If it was my money I'd buy them from somewhere 'more reputable'.


----------



## wind016

My bad. http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/100457163/Stax_SRS_007ii_Omega_Headphones_W.html
   
  Wrong seller.
   
  If it's too good to be true...


----------



## mralexosborn

Has anyone compared the Lambda normal bias against the SR-404? I know the SR-404 has a more forward upper midrange, but what else? If price was not an issue, which would you get?


----------



## Asr

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 

 As already indicated earlier, the HeadAmp KGSS lead time is not 2 years, and neither is the BHSE's for that matter. I waited about a year for my BHSE - ordered it in 2008 and got it approximately a year later. Actually now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure I waited less than a year.
   
  There's also the Woo GES, which they apparently still make, but don't expect that model to really drive the OII well - but it might be ok for lesser headphones. I have no idea though, as I have very limited experience with Stax headphones in general and have never heard a GES.
   
  Also, HeadAmp KGSS units sometimes show up on the FS forums, so you don't have to necessarily order a new one. Even more rarely, other DIY-ers' KGSS amps show up too, and even more rarely than that, DIY KGBH amps (the original Blue Hawaii, not the SE).
   
  And as already mentioned, the Stax SRM-727 (which is readily available) can be improved through a simple modification.
   
  So there are a few options but at the same time I'd also say that getting _good _electrostatic equipment isn't exactly cheap at least as far as the OII is concerned - I'd consider relatively high cost as part of the package when it comes to the OII. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Oh, and lest this post give the wrong impression, I'm obviously not an authority of actual lead times on HeadAmp products, just speaking from my own experience and others' that have been observed. The only lead times that are always going to be reliable will be posted by Justin himself, of course (and by that I don't necessarily mean on his Web site, moreso on Head-Fi).


----------



## mrmarbach

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> That is bad about the price changes.  That did not happen with me when I have dealt with EIFL.  Possibly due to the appreciation of the Yen vs the US $.
> When I bought my 007A from them it was $1,820.00, shipping included, but that was in 2008.


 

  
  I have bought from EIFL (most recently two years ago) and also recommended them to a friend. Koji always wants to quote in US Dollars (even to me in Europe) and so the prices change all the time because of the exchange rate. The price I got for my 404LE 2 years ago was still the best I could find at the time, and it arrived safely and quickly.
   
  My friend bought two complete Stax sets from EIFL and was totally happy. When one of them went wrong (he is no DIYer) he returned it to EIFL and they organised a warranty repair quickly (probably technically against the rules).
   
   
  They don't always answer very quickly though. I called once and spoke to Koji, he was friendly but his English is obviously really bad (but better than my Japanese...) so simple emails are the way to go, if you want to deal with them.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> umm...whats wrong with their stuff?


 

 I think the assembly and layout is done by drunk monkeys.  It makes even the worst Single Power amp look well designed and safe...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





asr said:


> There's also the Woo GES, which they apparently still make, but don't expect that model to really drive the OII well - but it might be ok for lesser headphones. I have no idea though, as I have very limited experience with Stax headphones in general and have never heard a GES.
> 
> Also, HeadAmp KGSS units sometimes show up on the FS forums, so you don't have to necessarily order a new one. Even more rarely, other DIY-ers' KGSS amps show up too, and even more rarely than that, DIY KGBH amps (the original Blue Hawaii, not the SE).
> 
> ...


 
   
  The WES is more suited to the O2 than the GES, and there's also Ray Samuel's A-10 Thunderbolt. I imagine either of those is much faster to arrive than the BHSE. It's really solid state options that are so limited with on the O2. If Headamp or another co. picks up the KGSS-HV as a commercial product, that would improve the situation _a lot. _


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> My bad. http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/100457163/Stax_SRS_007ii_Omega_Headphones_W.html
> 
> Wrong seller.
> 
> If it's too good to be true...


 

 Yeah... I've only found one bit of feedback on them (Adi Dinamika) on Alibaba.com, which indicates they are a fraudulent seller. 
   
  I would never pay via wire transfer in advance anyway (T/T).  I would only pay via PayPal, or Escrow service after receipt of product.  So, I doubt I'll be buying anything from Adi Dinamika in Jakarta.
   
  As they say... "if its too good to be true..."


----------



## kgreene

Quote: 





livewire said:


> @ Pabro -  I cant speak firsthand about your proposed system, but I know you are gonna love it!
> There has been much written about the SRM323 and the 404's, do a search.
> 
> @ kgreene - If you are willing to spend ~$400 and have a little patience and are quick with the trigger finger,
> ...


 


  I have been thinking I'll just need to save and wait.  I suppose if I could luck out on one of those deals that would be good too.  
   
  Interesting, it seems that some people like the energizers and some don't.  Though it seems to be dependent on a high quality amp with an energizer.
   
  Another thing I've been considering, maybe I can pick up some version of the lambdas first and then get an amp later.  Or maybe the lambdas + a really cheap energizer to start with with plans to upgrade that part later.  Or, maybe build an amp/energizer.
   
  Are there are reasonably priced diy ones?  I've seen several listed (KGSS, eXStatA, BH) but none seem particularly inexpensive to build.  I was looking at the exstata for a while but it looks like the parts themselves cost $300+.  Are there any simple ones for less as far as parts price goes?  I'm proficient enough that I think I could point to point solder up something if needed (though of course boards would be easier...)  Reminds me of wire wrapping things when I was younger...


----------



## mrmarbach

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> It's really solid state options that are so limited with on the O2. If Headamp or another co. picks up the KGSS-HV as a commercial product, that would improve the situation _a lot. _


 

 How likely is that, do you think?


----------



## ujamerstand

.


----------



## les_garten

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Yeah... I've only found one bit of feedback on them (Adi Dinamika) on Alibaba.com, which indicates they are a fraudulent seller.
> 
> I would never pay via wire transfer in advance anyway (T/T).  I would only pay via PayPal, or Escrow service after receipt of product.  So, I doubt I'll be buying anything from Adi Dinamika in Jakarta.
> 
> As they say... "if its too good to be true..."


 

  
   
  Everytime I see that that website is called Alibaba, it cracks me up!


----------



## catscratch

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I think the assembly and layout is done by drunk monkeys.  It makes even the worst Single Power amp look well designed and safe...


 


  Pretty much this. Mine looks like a hand grenade went off inside.
   
  If you want instant gratification, stay away from the O2. Good amping options will require you to be patient, and even more than that, good source matching will require you to swap sources or track down stuff that is actually good, for which you will once again need patience. Any truly transparent transducer will sound like the upstream components, and plugging it into any old system is just going to make you disappointed in the upstream components most of the time. That's part of the reason IMO why there are so many conflicting reports on the O2.
   
  Lambda-style phones are a lot less picky, and if you have a transformer box, you have an infinite selection of speaker amps to play with and tune the sound to your preference. Also the ESP950 is thoroughly awesome and completely underrated when it's liberated from that horrible piece of junk of an amp it comes with.


----------



## rgs9200m

You know, I also had the Koss ESP950s for a few years in the early-mid 1990s and I remember enjoying them a lot, even with their strange little box amp that looked like a toy.
  They had a nice natural sound that never offended, even if there was not a lot of detail. I later got a Headroom Max with Senn 600s and preferred the openness and
  clear sound of the Koss's, even though the 600s had more detail and depth.


----------



## pachku

The way the Chinese are coming into the market, and not being shy of offering really high end stuff (or at least high end priced stuff), I wouldn't be surprised if one of them tried to mass produce a KGSSHV or similar design. Jade is obviously working on emulating the HE-90, so no lack of ambitions over there. Perhaps Justin will decide to do a KGSSHV of his own, build quality will probably not be the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  From what I've read, the best price/sound ratio in amping the O2 would probably be a 007t with the 6S4 mod - you can get the amp < 1000$ around here and the mod is said to be pretty easy. And the KGSS is not that expensive. Of course, for those with acute upgraditis, the BHSE will always loom behind the horizon


----------



## spritzer

I've talked to Justin about a Headamp KGSSHV and it will be made in a similar chassis as the BHSE.  When it will happen isn't certain but I'd give it at least a year.  There have been talks to other people about making a commercial KGSSHV but sadly only a few companies meet our very strict quality codes.  Still it might happen...
   
  For SS amps you really can't go wrong with a modified 727.  Any competent DIY'er can perform the mod and the difference is far from subtle. 
   
  Ohh and the ESP950's are brilliant.  Play with the damping to change the sound to your liking and they can be even better.


----------



## mrmarbach

Quote: 





			
				spritzer said:
			
		

> /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I've talked to Justin about a Headamp KGSSHV and it will be made in a similar chassis as the BHSE.  When it will happen isn't certain but I'd give it at least a year.


 

 That's great news, especially that the chassis will be BHSE direction not KGSS direction. (WAF of KGSS is very low in my household.)


----------



## svyr

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/506765/stax-sr-507-sept-1-2010-stax-sr-207-oct-1-2010-what/525#post_7290294 a friendly warning for fellow SR-507 owners - check the mounting screws on the cup-holders. Otherwise 'un-fun' things may happen.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've talked to Justin about a Headamp KGSSHV and it will be made in a similar chassis as the BHSE.  When it will happen isn't certain but I'd give it at least a year.  There have been talks to other people about making a commercial KGSSHV but sadly only a few companies meet our very strict quality codes.  Still it might happen...


 

 That's good news indeed. Maybe by the time Justin's version is ready, I'll have a C32 to use with it.


----------



## MrGreen

Has anyone tried adjusting the gain on their electrostatic amps? Is it easy to do for a novice or is the voltage going to cause problems? I'd like to make it so I have a more-fine control on my amp of volume. Although it's very good compared to other amplifiers, I listen very quietly so this kind of thing is relevant to my interests. Thanks.


----------



## WilCox

This site describes the process to expand the range of a volume control (same process for pot or stepped attenuator).
   
http://www.goldpt.com/mods.html 
   
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Has anyone tried adjusting the gain on their electrostatic amps? Is it easy to do for a novice or is the voltage going to cause problems? I'd like to make it so I have a more-fine control on my amp of volume. Although it's very good compared to other amplifiers, I listen very quietly so this kind of thing is relevant to my interests. Thanks.


----------



## svyr

mrgreen said:


> Has anyone tried adjusting the gain on their electrostatic amps? Is it easy to do for a novice or is the voltage going to cause problems? I'd like to make it so I have a more-fine control on my amp of volume. Although it's very good compared to other amplifiers, I listen very quietly so this kind of thing is relevant to my interests. Thanks.




get a pre-amp lol? (that way you don't screw with you actual driver unit)


----------



## pomme de terre

Why is it that the supposedly inferior SRM-323 has a higher output voltage (400V) than the SRM-006t (300V) and even the SRM-600 Limited (340V)?
   
  Based on the output voltage, I would expect that the SRM-323 would be the one to choose...
   
  I also can't figure out the difference between the now discontinued SRM-323II, and the newer SRM-323S or the SRM-323M/SRM-323A. Elusive Disc carries both the II and S, while I see the M and A sold by some Japanese dealers. Am I correct to assume that none of these models have a voltage selector switch inside like some of the old Stax amps?


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Has anyone tried adjusting the gain on their electrostatic amps? Is it easy to do for a novice or is the voltage going to cause problems? I'd like to make it so I have a more-fine control on my amp of volume. Although it's very good compared to other amplifiers, I listen very quietly so this kind of thing is relevant to my interests. Thanks.


 
  If you go with the idea of an attenuator like the GoldPoint, Arn's are the best. He uses the best materials and is what DACT modeled theirs after. They weren't the originator, he was. Anyway, you can email him as he can be quite helpful.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Has anyone tried adjusting the gain on their electrostatic amps? Is it easy to do for a novice or is the voltage going to cause problems? I'd like to make it so I have a more-fine control on my amp of volume. Although it's very good compared to other amplifiers, I listen very quietly so this kind of thing is relevant to my interests. Thanks.


 
   
  One some of the amps this is pretty easy to do, just a couple of resistors per channel but as with all gain adjustments you need to take any and all compensation caps into account.  Personally I wouldn't bother with it as an input attenuator is much easier to implement. 
  
  Quote: 





pomme de terre said:


> Why is it that the supposedly inferior SRM-323 has a higher output voltage (400V) than the SRM-006t (300V) and even the SRM-600 Limited (340V)?
> 
> Based on the output voltage, I would expect that the SRM-323 would be the one to choose...
> 
> I also can't figure out the difference between the now discontinued SRM-323II, and the newer SRM-323S or the SRM-323M/SRM-323A. Elusive Disc carries both the II and S, while I see the M and A sold by some Japanese dealers. Am I correct to assume that none of these models have a voltage selector switch inside like some of the old Stax amps?


 

 The 323 isn't inferior, at least not in my book.  It's a cracking little amp and currently the best amp Stax produces.  The 727 is better but needs to be modified to truly shine. 
   
  As for the new versions, no internal pics have surfaced but it might have something to do with the 2SA1968 being discontinued and thus the amps having to be redesigned.


----------



## jamato8

Very often changing the gain, changes the sound quality not just the volume.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> And Singlepower's been out too. Who's left to build a decent Stax Omega amplifier???? I have an Omega coming and nothing to plug it into...
> 
> KGSS lead time is 2 YEARS???? Blue Hawaii is out of my price range. Stax 717 is tough to get. This is pretty depressing for having spent so much money and no good amplification options.


 

 KGSS lead time is 4 weeks.  Everything is already assembled except connector wiring.  It's on the website.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

An update on the SR-001 custom tips:
   
  I went in to have my second set of impressions done yesterday afternoon. We put foam in the tips of the drivers, then inserted them into the impression foam before it started to set so we captured the full effect of how it normally is inserted and where it fits on my ear.  I gave the audiologist very clear expectations and told him to tell Starkey not to extend the tip beyond 4mm past the end of the driver.  This should eliminate the steep hook in the tip and allow Starkey to run a full size opening in front of the driver.  They also know to call me directly if they have questions and if they are highly confused or concerned, then they are to put them on hold and I will visit Starkey directly in Minneapolis in mid-April when I'm there for business. 
   
  I'm confident we can get this second attempt to be much better sounding than the first attempt.


----------



## AudioCats

how well does the 001 mold stay in the ear? do you have to use the head-band?


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Quote:  
 
   *afta2000*[AU] *Overall Ranking* Points:20 | Ranking:2541
  
 *Indonesian company Inkomplite is a fraud*  [size=x-small]I just want to warn everybody that Indonesian company Inkomplite is a fraud. They are also on other trade sites so be careful. [/size]  ·                               Company Name: inkomplite
  ·                               Contact Person: Mr.hery hermawan
  ·                               Street Address: Jl. Mangga Besar 81 Lt. 3
  ·                               City: Jakarta
  ·                               Province/State: Jakarta
  ·                               Country/Region: Indonesia
  ·                               Telephone: 62-815-6164328
  ·                               Fax: 62-856-24622009
  ·                               Website: http://inkomplite.net
  Adi Dinamika, Dian Purlina and Silvi are other names they use


   
 Award Points: *60*  Add to Watch list | My Watch List
 


   Posted on Oct 20, 2008 at 15:53 
 /Photos/2512-fdb41944-3c2f-4e18-a3b4-13b2e5930a9e.jpg *mecciliao* [CN] *Overall Ranking* Points:160 | Ranking:17
  
 *Re: Indonesian company Inkomplite is a fraud*  WOO~~
  That's fine. Thanks for your kindly warning. I think we should welcome such things as you doing. Let the fraud company get out of our sight. It is the duty of every international trader. Right?  But, firstly, please be sure of  the information you give is ture. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   


   
 Award Points: *5*  Add to Watch list | My Watch List
 
 
   Posted on Oct 23, 2008 at 17:00 
 /Photos/1231-c53605dc-dc5e-4353-bb19-34d51486a82e.jpg *panda* [CN] *Overall Ranking* Points:186 | Ranking:12
  
 *Re: Indonesian company Inkomplite is a fraud* yes,  we do not welcome cheaters here!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   
 Award Points: *5*  Add to Watch list | My Watch List
 
 
   Posted on Oct 24, 2008 at 21:08 
 /Images/Myecvv/ecvv_logo.gif *tlwalker1962* [US] *Overall Ranking* Points:12 | Ranking:2790
  
 *Now you tell me!*   [size=medium]On 10/02/08 I purchased a $265usd fishing reel from Inkomplite that Mr. Adi Dinamika wanted me to pay for using a direct bank wire transfer into his bank account.[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]I used PayPal instead, but as soon as he received my payment, he cancelled my order, kept my payment and as has not contacted me since. [/size]

 [size=medium]This is a shame because I have made many international purchases from reputable companies like Minstor Tackle without problem. Now my company has ceased all Asian imports.[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Now I am pursuing legal action against Inkomplite and Mr. Adi Dinamika. If you have any information regarding Adi Dinamika or Inkomplite please send it to:[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Terry Walker[/size]
  [size=medium]tlwalker1962@yahoo.com[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]I appreciate your help and I will keep all personal information strictly confidential.[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Some iInformation I have concerning Inkomplite and Mr. Adi Dinamika:[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Bank Account Number:   1180006033582[/size]
  [size=medium]Swift Code:                     BEIIIDJA[/size]
  [size=medium]Bank Name:                    Bank Mandiri[/size]
  [size=medium]Bank Address:                 KCP Jkt. Puri Indah[/size]
  [size=medium]                                      JAKARTA - DKI[/size]
  [size=medium]                                      INDONESIA[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Email Addresses:[/size]
  [size=medium]inkomplite@yahoo.com[/size]
  [size=medium]sales@inkomplite.net[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]Other than being a thief, Mr. Dinamika is also an engineer, born on 11/28/1972. I also have his home address and phone number. I now know where Mr. Dinamika went to school and that he likes pets. Local authorities in Jakarta are investigating my claims and assisting me in bringing Mr. Adi Dinamika to justice.[/size]
  [size=medium] [/size]
  [size=medium]ADI --- IF YOU ARE READING THIS, GIVE ME MY $265 BACK AND I WILL STOP MY PURSUIT. EACH DAY I AM GETTING CLOSER TO HAVING YOU ARRESTED! EVEN IF IT COST ME $10,000.00 I WILL TRACK YOU DOWN UNLESS I GET MY MONEY BACK.[/size]

  [size=medium]  [/size]






>


----------



## Gradofan2

Yeah... RE:  purchasing Stax products via Alibaba.com...
   
  ... there are too many reports such as those above, for anyone to risk buying anything through that web site.
   
  And... as you will notice, if you do a search for Stax products on their web site... their are several vendors that are attempting the same "scam" - attempting to induce unsupecting buyers to "wire transfer" funds to them, before receiving the Stax product, and who will not use any form of settlement with "buyer protection."


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> how well does the 001 mold stay in the ear? do you have to use the head-band?


 


  The first set stayed in incredibly well.  Actually a little difficult to remove them once the "tip" warmed up.  It seals and softens as it gets warm and fills the entire outer area of the ear so it's locked in place.  We'll see how the second pairs does, but the impression captured the same areas of the ear so hopefully it will still work without the headband.  If the headband is required, then I'm building a new custom unit.


----------



## AudioCats

I have tried some epoxy clay and it fitted well, but wouldn't stay in for every long. Of course the epoxy I used doesn't expand after warming up. Or maybe my outer ear lack the "locking features"....
   
  please keep us updated


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> I have tried some epoxy clay and it fitted well, but wouldn't stay in for every long. Of course the epoxy I used doesn't expand after warming up. Or maybe my outer ear lack the "locking features"....
> 
> please keep us updated


 


  "Locking" features probably refers to the two curves in the ear. You probably didn't mould deep enough


----------



## Asr

Of the people that have heard the SR-507 and the OII MKI on the same amp, can anyone say which was the "brighter" headphone, and which had more bass quantity? I might be looking into getting an SR-507 but only if it substantially differs from the OII, and preferrably how I'd like it to (either more bass or treble would be nice).
   
  Normally I'd just buy the SR-507 without asking, but if there's a consensus on how it sounds versus the OII, I'd prefer to not waste my time.


----------



## n3rdling

I think spritzer said he thought the 507 was on the bright side of neutral and I know he considers the O2mk1 neutral.  Unfortunately I forgot to listen to the 507 at the last meet or I'd be more helpful.


----------



## coolcat

507 have a forward mid,sound brighter and have surly more bass-quantity than the O2.The Soundstage is not the biggest ,but I think they are quite airy. 
  Because of the forward-mid and quite bass heavy  and stax soundquality  the 507 have  my vote for the best  rock-headphones.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> 507 have a forward mid,sound brighter and have surly more bass-quantity than the O2.The Soundstage is not the biggest ,but I think they are quite airy.
> Because of the forward-mid and quite bass heavy  and stax soundquality  the 507 have  my vote for the best  rock-headphones.


 
  So... basically they have only recessed lower mids? Almost sounds like a Grado


----------



## coolcat

please don't compare the Grados to 507 ,you know what I mean 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. ( Grado-fans please don't  get it too serious and don't mad at me,I said so becuase I and wind016 love the stax more)
  507 still have stax sound,they don't sound like any grados .


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> please don't compare the Grados to 507 ,you know what I mean
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Oh. They way you described the 507 turned me off for a second hehe XD


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> 507 have a forward mid,sound brighter and have surly more bass-quantity than the O2.The Soundstage is not the biggest ,but I think they are quite airy.
> Because of the forward-mid and quite bass heavy  and stax soundquality  the 507 have  my vote for the best  rock-headphones.


 

 X2.
   
  In reply to Asr in regards to the 507s VS O2s


----------



## tigon_ridge

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> 507 have a forward mid,sound brighter and have surly more bass-quantity than the O2.The Soundstage is not the biggest ,but I think they are quite airy.
> Because of the forward-mid and quite bass heavy  and stax soundquality  the 507 have  my vote for the best  rock-headphones.


 


 A bit confused here by the description. How do "more bass quantity" which means darker and "sound brighter" go together?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> A bit confused here by the description. How do "more bass quantity" which means darker and "sound brighter" go together?


 


  More bass quantity is not darker, it's bassier.  You can have a very bright can with rolled off bass or a bright can lots o' bass.  Rolled off highs and recessed mids makes a can darker.


----------



## FrankCooter

I own the pair of 507s that was at the recent NorCal meet. I pretty much agree with coolcat's description except for the "brightness" part. But  I'm 58 years old, running them out of an all tube DIY amp, and an nos dac. Definitely "not your father's Lambda's". Tight deep bass. Full lush mids without  the Lambda "etch". A sound stage that's deeper and more layered than my previous Lambda sigs and SR-303. If I already had an O2, I'd probably pass, but definitely a major upgrade over previous Lambdas.  Subjectively, at least the equal of the top end ortho's.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Now you guys have me thinking of parting with a LNS to get a 507...


----------



## tigon_ridge

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> More bass quantity is not darker, it's bassier.  You can have a very bright can with rolled off bass or a bright can lots o' bass.  Rolled off highs and recessed mids makes a can darker.


 

 Learning something new all the time in this forum. Thanks.


----------



## TIMITS

I've been enjoying reading the comments on the SR-507 and am gearing up to make a purchase decision soon.  I'm located in a rural area in the land down under so making a decision is going to be based on what I read here ... not optimal but far better than doing it completely on my own.  N3rdling made a comment about the 4070 in the "My impressions of the HE-6 vs HD800 vs Stax SR-007" thread so I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has heard both the 4070 and 507 and what your impressions are.  How would you rate them if you could only purchase one?


----------



## coolcat

brighter is only compared with O2 ,but in gerneral I don't find 507 bright.(not like the HD800)


----------



## coolcat

4070 are a bit strange. I think they have problem with tonal balance,they are very impactful ,great imaging (even more 3 dimentional than the O2 to my ear in the short listening). But when I compare them with the O2MKII,O2MKI,HE6, their sound seems to be out of place,the three regions, bass, treble and mid seem not to blend together. by the way It was a just short listenning and the system,I've heard seem to have good synergy with the O2.
  My friend ,who loves his 4070 so much,that he only keeps the 4070 told me that 4070 seem to be components picky,but he seems to enjoy the mix and match,and in his System the 4070 shine.
  For me surly I think 4070 are good headphones,but I cleary prefer the 507 or O2 more than the 4070. Actually before I listened the 4070,they were one of the phones,which I once wanted to purchase,but for now I don't think ,I'm going to buy one ,not because they are bad ,but like I said,I think I have not much money and time to spend for building a good environment for 4070.
   
  For a better description of 4070 wait for someone who has more experience with them.
   
  P.S. the 4070 and Stax sigma pro were available in yahoo japan auction yesterday. the  price were tempting.


----------



## vrln

My SR-507 should arrive any day now... My impressions won´t be of much use to the experienced STAX crowd though (these will be my first electrostats), but I can compare them to top end dynamics and the LCD-2. The only STAX I´ve heard so far were the 404 Signature with a SRM-006 amp. I enjoyed that combo a lot already (more than my HD 800 I had at the time), so I have a feeling I should be pretty happy with these. Especially considering the 404 Signatures have gotten a lot worse reviews than the 404LE/507.


----------



## perrew

How much of the Stax experience does one get with the Woo WEE transformer?


----------



## kgreene

Can someone tell me if the SR-80s are circumaural?  At first glance they looked similar to lambdas but after seeing a pic of the inside they look like they aren't.  I just wanted to double check before taking them off my 'circumaural stax' list.    
   
  thanks


----------



## paaj

perrew said:


> How much of the Stax experience does one get with the Woo WEE transformer?




More than no amp at all, and a cheapish start if you have an amp... I ordered one so I hope to find out soon how it compares to the srm-t1.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





paaj said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Looking forward to your comparison!


----------



## reiserFS

This might be a dumb question, but is it theoretically possible to power a SRD-6/SB via RCA ouputs without a speaker amp? I'm still missing a few parts for my KGSS and I just found this great deal for a SR-5 Gold with a SRD-6/SB.


----------



## livewire

I doubt it.
  The output signal voltage isnt high enough and the impedance of the RCA outs isnt matched for the SRD energizer units.


----------



## spritzer

The 507 is birghter than the SR-007 and the Lambdas all have a less than linear bass response.  It's a great headphone though and one of the few Lambdas to rival the Koss ESP950. 
  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> This might be a dumb question, but is it theoretically possible to power a SRD-6/SB via RCA ouputs without a speaker amp? I'm still missing a few parts for my KGSS and I just found this great deal for a SR-5 Gold with a SRD-6/SB.


 

 Not enough ratio for any real output, 1:25 transformers with a 2V source won't get you far.  I have transformer boxes here that work just fine off cmoy amps (Grado RA-1, the ALO Rx and the like) so it can be done but not with the stock transformers.  You could always get a 30$ T-amp though...


----------



## Djarum

I'm not 100% sure of the defining features of a circumaural, but I think they are not. They have a very thin pad around the part that sits on your ears, but it doesn't go all the way to touch the head, at least on my pair.
   
  Quote: 





kgreene said:


> Can someone tell me if the SR-80s are circumaural?  At first glance they looked similar to lambdas but after seeing a pic of the inside they look like they aren't.  I just wanted to double check before taking them off my 'circumaural stax' list.
> 
> thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> This might be a dumb question, but is it theoretically possible to power a SRD-6/SB via RCA ouputs without a speaker amp? I'm still missing a few parts for my KGSS and I just found this great deal for a SR-5 Gold with a SRD-6/SB.


 

 SR-5 gold sound great, so you could just try a cheap T-amp to drive the SRD-6, until you have the good amp done.


----------



## K3cT

Just wondering, since I have speaker outputs on my β22, do you think it will do an adequate job with a Stax transformer as opposed to say, SRM-1/MK2?


----------



## n3rdling

I like the dedicated amps more, but there are a couple people here who like the transformer option.


----------



## Dr No

I use the sr 507 with the eXstatA. I like it much more than the sr 007/ 717, I even like it better that He90/Hev90. Sure it is brighter than the 007, but the 007 is too dark.


----------



## coolcat

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Just wondering, since I have speaker outputs on my β22, do you think it will do an adequate job with a Stax transformer as opposed to say, SRM-1/MK2?


 


 I have heard somewhere,The problem with these transformer is,that they are not faithful enough to their source,that's mean they won't give the sound ,you should get from the B22.
  If you use the speaker outputs of the B22,I "believe",you will get more power from your amp. (I believe cuz I used to drive my HE6 through the heaphones out of my headphone amps,but it seems my amp lacked power,I then connected the HE6 using the 4 pin female balance to banana ,then it was fine,there's no probs driving the HE6,since I don't have the B22,my guess is just,it should work the same way)


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> I have heard somewhere,The problem with these transformer is,that they are not faithful enough to their source,that's mean they won't give the sound ,you should get from the B22.
> If you use the speaker outputs of the B22,I "believe",you will get more power from your amp. (I believe cuz I used to drive my HE6 through the heaphones out of my headphone amps,but it seems my amp lacked power,I then connected the HE6 using the 4 pin female balance to banana ,then it was fine,there's no probs driving the HE6,since I don't have the B22,my guess is just,it should work the same way)


 


 I don't think you can run any stat phones directly from a  power amp if only because you also need a bias circuit which this won't provide. Also there is some risk of burning the drivers.  I am surprised that you even run the HE6 from speaker outputs since there is a risk of overdriving them unless you put some resitance in the circuit.
   
  I find the old Stax transformers ok and certainly the low bias models are cost effective.  You can sometimes pick them up for $20.00.
   
   I would guess that their sound varies with the quality of power amp driving them.   With my mid-fi set the SRD6 gives a nice balanced sound with phones like the low bias Sigma and SR5 but it lacks air/ambience and is somewhat harsh compared to the  SRM1Mk2.


----------



## Double F

Would one of these transformers work well with 500 watt monoblock amps or are they current limiting?


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





double f said:


> Would one of these transformers work well with 500 watt monoblock amps or are they current limiting?


 
   
  I drove a SR-Lambda via an SRD7-SB from an M3 headphone amp. Actual power draw is a watt or two at earsplitting volumes. So 500W monoblocks is stupidly ridiculous - and not in a cool overkill kind of way, but a complete and utter waste kind of way.


----------



## Double F

Quote: 





beefy said:


> I drove a SR-Lambda via an SRD7-SB from an M3 headphone amp. Actual power draw is a watt or two at earsplitting volumes. So 500W monoblocks is stupidly ridiculous - and not in a cool overkill kind of way, but a complete and utter waste kind of way.


 


 I have the amps now for my speaker setup.  While a waste in a uncool way it is soley a matter of convience.


----------



## coolcat

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I don't think you can run any stat phones directly from a  power amp if only because you also need a bias circuit which this won't provide. Also there is some risk of burning the drivers.  I am surprised that you even run the HE6 from speaker outputs since there is a risk of overdriving them unless you put some resitance in the circuit.
> 
> I find the old Stax transformers ok and certainly the low bias models are cost effective.  You can sometimes pick them up for $20.00.
> 
> I would guess that their sound varies with the quality of power amp driving them.   With my mid-fi set the SRD6 gives a nice balanced sound with phones like the low bias Sigma and SR5 but it lacks air/ambience and is somewhat harsh compared to the  SRM1Mk2.


 

 I didn't mean ,I do run the Stax direcly from homeamp,but I mean run with the transformer+homeamp.
  But for the HE6 ,My 70 watt home amp can run them directly without problem.(Actually I did the same with HD800 too,still my HD800 are alive )


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I like the dedicated amps more, but there are a couple people here who like the transformer option.


 


   


  Quote: 





coolcat said:


> I have heard somewhere,The problem with these transformer is,that they are not faithful enough to their source,that's mean they won't give the sound ,you should get from the B22.
> If you use the speaker outputs of the B22,I "believe",you will get more power from your amp. (I believe cuz I used to drive my HE6 through the heaphones out of my headphone amps,but it seems my amp lacked power,I then connected the HE6 using the 4 pin female balance to banana ,then it was fine,there's no probs driving the HE6,since I don't have the B22,my guess is just,it should work the same way)


 


   
  Thanks for the inputs guys. I always envision the transformer option as a "band-aid" solution until I can fund a proper Stax energizer, I'm just wondering how it will do compared to the cheaper units. I did compare a Gainclone and SRD-7 Pro-bias combo against an SRM-1/MK2 and the latter proved to be the superior unit. I'm not sure how the β22 will fare though.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Just wondering, since I have speaker outputs on my β22, do you think it will do an adequate job with a Stax transformer as opposed to say, SRM-1/MK2?


 

 I think it will work well that way.  When I first upgraded from speaker amp/transformer to the SRM-1 Mk2 I found the main difference was the transformers has alittle bass impact and dynamics and the SRM-1 has a little better micro-detail and open soundstage.  It was clear to me that "the better the amp, the better the sound", and my 8-watt ZDT drives the transformer and Stax better than my 12-watt Nuforce Icon.  The B22 should be a good amp to use.
   
  There is also a difference in sound just with the different transformers.  My SRD-7 Mk2 was only slightly better than the SRD-7 which itself was slightly better than the SRD-6, but my audiocats modded SRD-7 with direct wired transformers sounds even more transparent (and best).  And with pro bias phones my SRD-7 Pro sounds slightly better than my SRD-7 Mk2, but neither is as good as the audiocats modded version.


----------



## Gradofan2

Is anyone familiar with the Jolida integrated tube hybrid amps (JD-1501 - 100 watts, or JD-1701 - 50 watts)?
   
  Do you think the WEE might mate well with one of those to drive the O2's, and 507's well?  At least as well as the Stax amps, or the GES?
   
  I guess my only real concern about this combo would be noise levels (down 90 db). 
   
  I'm trying to find something that is reasonably priced that will drive the O2's and 507's better than the Stax amps.
   
  I guess they might also be good with the HE-6's and LCD-2's.


----------



## spritzer

With a very high power amp you can go to town wrt to lowering the ratio of the transformers.  With the Stax units it is just about the first few watts so a cheap 500W amp will probably sound like crap.


----------



## Gradofan2

So what would be the maximum practical power output in watts for a cheap amp to function well with the WEE? 
   
  These are 100 watts and 50 watts into 8 ohm loads, respectively, which I guess would be about 12.5 watts and 6.75 watts into 64 ohm loads.  So... would that be too great a power for the WEE to convert well?
   
  And... I guess a SS amp, would have a better S/N ratio (less noise), than a tube hybrid amp.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> ...
> _*I'm trying to find something that is reasonably priced that will drive the O2's and 507's better than the Stax amps.*_
> 
> ...


 
  I guess it is possible if the transformer box alone is around $1k, but $1k is not exactly what most of us consider "reasonable".
   
  On the other hand the O2 price is not exactly "reasonable", either.


----------



## Gradofan2

The WEE is $500, and it gets some good comments here - though, the resulting sound really depends on the source and amp (in this case the Jolida), which can be purchased for about $600, just as some other good amps in that price range.  The Jolida and some others get some remarkably good reviews. 
   
  According to Jack, the WEE should be virtually transparent, so the phones should reflect the sound quality of the other components.
   
  So... theoretically, you might be able to achieve a better sound quality than the Stax amps, and, perhaps, the GES, depending on that of the speaker amp, and source.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> The WEE is $500, and it gets some good comments here - though, the resulting sound really depends on the source and amp (in this case the Jolida), which can be purchased for about $600, just as some other good amps in that price range.  The Jolida and some others get some remarkably good reviews.
> 
> According to Jack, the WEE should be virtually transparent, so the phones should reflect the sound quality of the other components.
> 
> So... theoretically, you might be able to achieve a better sound quality than the Stax amps, and, perhaps, the GES, depending on that of the speaker amp, and source.


 

 Unless Woo has sourced new transformers, the Wee will still roll off the low end a little.  Not as bad as the Stax energizers, but I heard the roll off at CJ on the prototype.  The Wee also slows down the speed of the 'stats.  They don't have the bandwidth of the dedicated amps so I wouldn't call it transparent.  Still a nice way into 'stats if you have Pro bias 'phones and an amp with a sound sig you love...


----------



## epocs

Not to be too off-topic from the current discussion, but I wanted to get peoples' opinions about the O2s.
   
  For me, the huge gap in price from some of the top stax amps (007t,717,727,) and something like the Woo GES to the Blue Hawaii and WES is a sad reality that makes me want to shy away from the O2s. I mean we're talking 4-5 thousand dollar differences. It seems like the O2s potential isn't being realized until we hit these behemoth amps.
   
  My question is- is the O2 still better than all the top tier dynamics and orthos even when not driven to its potential? Is an O2 on the 717 or GES going to still beat out the HD800, LCD-2, HE6 driven by powerful amps such as the WA6SE, WA2, GS-1, Phoenix, etc. which many people consider headphone amps that do bring out much of the top dynamics' potential?
   
  Alot of times, people exaggerate the effect of headphone amps and their influence on a headphone. Just from personal experience, it seems like people quote extreme changes when (to my ears) the changes are undoubtedly there, but subtle. I'm wondering if the effect of a Blue Hawaii coming from something like a GES would really yield a performance boost that makes it leaps above other headphones out there, whereas it might have not been that way on the lower amps.
   
  Any insight would be super helpful!


----------



## goodvibes

Quote: 





double f said:


> I have the amps now for my speaker setup.  While a waste in a uncool way it is soley a matter of convience.


 


 Don't let these guys rag on you. If the first few watts are clean, it will work as well as any. The current is a non issue. You need a clean voltage amp so big watts is overkill but quality and quantity are not mutually exclusive.
   
  Try for yourself as we're all a bit different. I added a very small amount of damping to my Novas for a less ethereal and more solid presentation and I'm sure that's also considered sacrilegious.


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





epocs said:


> Not to be too off-topic from the current discussion, but I wanted to get peoples' opinions about the O2s.
> 
> For me, the huge gap in price from some of the top stax amps (007t,717,727,) and something like the Woo GES to the Blue Hawaii and WES is a sad reality that makes me want to shy away from the O2s. I mean we're talking 4-5 thousand dollar differences. It seems like the O2s potential isn't being realized until we hit these behemoth amps.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think the O2 sounds great even out of an SRM-252.  Several here have used that combo for an over-the-top transportable electrostatic system.  The O2 scales well with better amps, but I think you would enjoy it with something like an SRM-323 until you can move up.  Try to find a Head-Fi member close to you and check out some of the different amp combos.
   
  And yes, an O2 with a 717 beats out the HD 800 in my humble opinion.


----------



## paaj

I'm waiting on my WEE (has shipped), it will be used with an Audiolab 8000Q pre and Hypex UcD400 power, and compared to SRM-T1W. I really hope it'll show the quality of the components... can't wait


----------



## Double F

Quote: 





goodvibes said:


> Don't let these guys rag on you. If the first few watts are clean, it will work as well as any. The current is a non issue. You need a clean voltage amp so big watts is overkill but quality and quantity are not mutually exclusive.
> 
> Try for yourself as we're all a bit different. I added a very small amount of damping to my Novas for a less ethereal and more solid presentation and I'm sure that's also considered sacrilegious.


 


 Thanks, I think I will try a Woo Wee.   The Monoblocks in question are McIntosh MC501s.  They use autoformers which provide 500 watts at 2, 4, and 8 ohm,  I will have to check what they output at  64 ohms.  The damping factor is 100 @ 8 ohm.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





paaj said:


> I'm waiting on my WEE (has shipped), it will be used with an Audiolab 8000Q pre and Hypex UcD400 power, and compared to SRM-T1W. I really hope it'll show the quality of the components... can't wait


 

 Several of us are going to be very interested in your impressions. 
   
  If the WEE can allow you to access the sound quality of good speaker amps and sources, then it should be better than dedicated headphone amps (Stax, or others)... and... allow you to tune the sound to your preferences (e.g. tube, SS, hybrid, etc.).  And free you from the "necessity" to buy a KGSS, WES, or BHSE. 
   
  That would be great.  But... I suppose that's a big... IF.   I would be surprised if Woo Audio would offer such a device, that could compete with the WES, and GES.  But... we shall see.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Several of us are going to be very interested in your impressions.
> 
> If the WEE can allow you to access the sound quality of good speaker amps and sources, then it should be better than dedicated headphone amps (Stax, or others)... and... allow you to tune the sound to your preferences (e.g. tube, SS, hybrid, etc.).  And free you from the "necessity" to buy a KGSS, WES, or BHSE.
> 
> That would be great.  But... I suppose that's a big... IF.   I would be surprised if Woo Audio would offer such a device, that could compete with the WES, and GES.  But... we shall see.


 
  I think it was said on the other thread that a dedicated amplifier will be better than anything using the WEE or similar transformer.


----------



## monsieurguzel

Unfortunately transformers are a really tricky thing to get right and the very good ones are extremely expensive to make both in terms of winding them correctly and using the right materials.  Transformers though, no matter how good, will always take a little away from the sounds and add some veil / coloration / slowness of sorts.    Obviously better transformers do that to a lesser degree.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





monsieurguzel said:


> Unfortunately transformers are a really tricky thing to get right and the very good ones are extremely expensive to make both in terms of winding them correctly and using the right materials.  Transformers though, no matter how good, will always take a little away from the sounds and add some veil / coloration / slowness of sorts.    Obviously better transformers do that to a lesser degree.


 

 So... then... the WEE is not one of the "better tranformers," and can not reasonably be modified to be one, except at much greater cost?


----------



## epocs

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I think the O2 sounds great even out of an SRM-252.  Several here have used that combo for an over-the-top transportable electrostatic system.  The O2 scales well with better amps, but I think you would enjoy it with something like an SRM-323 until you can move up.  Try to find a Head-Fi member close to you and check out some of the different amp combos.
> 
> And yes, an O2 with a 717 beats out the HD 800 in my humble opinion.


 

 Thanks for that comment. I see that you own both the O2 and the HD800, so that's great to see you know from first hand experience.
   
  I guess I'm just being cautious because people mention these extremely expensive amps bringing the O2 from a zone where they are on par with the rest of the flagship headphones to all of a sudden destroying all competition when paired with a BHSE or WES.
   
  I'm just wondering if many people still prefer the O2 over the lcd-2,hd800,t1,he6,etc with what is considered a "mediocre" amp in the 717 or GES.  I've just found that for me, I've preferred the HD800 over pretty much all headphones even when changing amps for the most part, except the O2. So I was hoping that the O2 would be the same because I only heard them out of a BHSE and was incredibly impressed, but don't want to receive them with a GES and suddenly feel they are inferior to the hd800 or he-6.
   
  I hope I'm not confusing everyone with this statement.


----------



## AudioCats

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Several of us are going to be very interested in your impressions.
> 
> If the WEE can allow you to access the sound quality of good speaker amps and sources, then it should be better than dedicated headphone amps (Stax, or others)... and... allow you to tune the sound to your preferences (e.g. tube, SS, hybrid, etc.).  And free you from the "necessity" to buy a KGSS, WES, or BHSE.
> 
> That would be great.  But... I suppose that's a big... IF.   I would be surprised if Woo Audio would offer such a device, that could compete with the WES, and GES.  But... we shall see.


 


 for smaller phones such as the Lambda's, I would expect the T1 to win. Might be a different story for bigger stuff like the O2's.


----------



## RockCity

Quote: 





epocs said:


> Thanks for that comment. I see that you own both the O2 and the HD800, so that's great to see you know from first hand experience.
> 
> I guess I'm just being cautious because people mention these extremely expensive amps bringing the O2 from a zone where they are on par with the rest of the flagship headphones to all of a sudden destroying all competition when paired with a BHSE or WES.
> 
> ...


 


 I think the wrong approach to this question is to compare the headphones on a linear scale. At this price level, you are not comparing identical competitors as much as listening to different styles of presentations. If a high budget phones has the presentation you're looking for, you will spend as much money as needed to optimize that presentation. Conversely, if you spend the same amount of money on a different competitor, you will never make it sound like another signature. What this means for serious investors is pick a base platform that you like and upgrade around that core. The decision can only be made through trial and error and by preference. Personally, I have the HD800 and the Zana Deux that I rarely use. There is a large following that prefer this style but I do not. Similarly, the Stax aficionados swear by their rigs. I have the SR-007 with 007t, 717, and the KGSS. I find it unique but if I were to nitpick I feel there are certain things it can't do. Same goes for the HP1000 and the K1000. It is a tough decision and there is no bang for the buck at this level. But if you heard something you like, chances are you won't be looking at other camps so often.


----------



## Michgelsen

I'm very satisfied with my 717 & O2 combo. It doesn't sound mediocre in any way! I agree that the effect of amplifiers is often exaggerated. For example, I have tried driving O2 with a SRM-T1 when I still had one. While the 717 was better, especiallly in the bass department, the difference was not huge nor did the 717 make the T1 'sound broken' or anything like that.
  The O2 is already awesome out of a 717. I've never heard it out of a top-class amp such as a Blue Hawaii (SE), but at we're at this level already where an amp that is twice as expensive will not sound twice as good.
  Let me put is this way: I'm so satisfied with what I have now, that I do not feel I need to upgrade any further.
   
  Quote: 





epocs said:


> Not to be too off-topic from the current discussion, but I wanted to get peoples' opinions about the O2s.
> 
> For me, the huge gap in price from some of the top stax amps (007t,717,727,) and something like the Woo GES to the Blue Hawaii and WES is a sad reality that makes me want to shy away from the O2s. I mean we're talking 4-5 thousand dollar differences. It seems like the O2s potential isn't being realized until we hit these behemoth amps.
> 
> ...


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I think the O2 sounds great even out of an SRM-252.  Several here have used that combo for an over-the-top transportable electrostatic system.  The O2 scales well with better amps, but I think you would enjoy it with something like an SRM-323 until you can move up.  Try to find a Head-Fi member close to you and check out some of the different amp combos.


 
  x2... FWIW I liked the O2 out of my 212 better than the HD800 out of a WA2. Like RockCity said it also has to do with personal tastes. But the O2 didn't sound bad at all in comparison, it was every bit as good and more laid-back/forgiving.


----------



## goodvibes

There's nothing inherently wrong with transformers. I'm a transistor and not tube guy so I'm not transformer biased, I just understand the trade offs. For this purpose bandwidth/phase and saturation aren't too difficult to overcome. Large amps tend to not be as refined as little specialized ones but it's a trend and not a rule. Just costs a lot more. I think we need to just listen to individual devices and evaluate that way instead of all these absolutes. All that said, I use a SRM-1/mk-2 instead of a transformer connected to my very expensive power amp so I don't disagree with the product recommendations given here.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> So... then... the WEE is not one of the "better tranformers," and can not reasonably be modified to be one, except at much greater cost?


 

 It's all relative.  IIRC, the Wee is Pro bias only, even though Jack has yet to use the correct jacks or plug the center hole in the cheap Amphenol jack he chose to use in the Wee instead of adding $50 to the cost and using the PTFE jacks.  That said, for a Pro bias Stax headphone, the Wee is probably the best energizer available commercially ATM.  But the transformers are not 300KHz or higher bandwidth units on ferrite cores.  With a proper core you can easily achieve 450KHz or higher bandwidth with a starting frequency of of 2-3Hz or lower.  You need the low starting frequency and the very, very high bandwidth to keep a frequency response and transient response time similar to the lower end dedicated amps.  But for $500 you can buy a much better set of custom transformers and a PCB from Spritzer to make your own energizer with both the Pro and Normal bias as well as a third bias if you want to run HE90s or Koss 950s at a higher bias than the 580V Pro bias.


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I think the O2 sounds great even out of an SRM-252.
> 
> And yes, an O2 with a 717 beats out the HD 800 in my humble opinion.


 
   

I agree with you on both point. 
   
I had the SRM-252 and the SRM-717 side by side for a few month to power my O2 Mk1 and it was hard *FOR ME* to tell if there was any real differences between the two amps... After (too) much reading of this forum, I convinced myself that I should keep the SRM-717 since it was supposed to be so much better... I don't regret my decision since I had the money to keep the SRM-717 but I am sure I would have live happily with the SRM-252.
   
I have the O2, the HD800 (powered by my Presonus Central Station) and the Akg K1000 (powered by my Jolida 1501RC) and I must say that *IN MY SETUP* the O2/717 is the clear winner!


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





rockcity said:


> I think the wrong approach to this question is to compare the headphones on a linear scale. At this price level, you are not comparing identical competitors as much as listening to different styles of presentations. If a high budget phones has the presentation you're looking for, you will spend as much money as needed to optimize that presentation. Conversely, if you spend the same amount of money on a different competitor, you will never make it sound like another signature. What this means for serious investors is pick a base platform that you like and upgrade around that core. The decision can only be made through trial and error and by preference. Personally, I have the HD800 and the Zana Deux that I rarely use. There is a large following that prefer this style but I do not. Similarly, the Stax aficionados swear by their rigs. I have the SR-007 with 007t, 717, and the KGSS. I find it unique but if I were to nitpick I feel there are certain things it can't do. Same goes for the HP1000 and the K1000. It is a tough decision and there is no bang for the buck at this level. But if you heard something you like, chances are you won't be looking at other camps so often.


 

 So... is the sound of the O2 so much better with the KGSS over the 007t, as to justify the significant increased cost (my 007t II cost me about $900+, compared to about $2,300+ for the KGSS)???


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





petyot said:


> I agree with you on both point.
> 
> I had the SRM-252 and the SRM-717 side by side for a few month to power my O2 Mk1 and it was hard *FOR ME* to tell if there was any real differences between the two amps... After (too) much reading of this forum, I convinced myself that I should keep the SRM-717 since it was supposed to be so much better... I don't regret my decision since I had the money to keep the SRM-717 but I am sure I would have live happily with the SRM-252.
> 
> I have the O2, the HD800 (powered by my Presonus Central Station) and the Akg K1000 (powered by my Jolida 1501RC) and I must say that *IN MY SETUP* the O2/717 is the clear winner!


 
   
  Well... that's helpful to know... I guess... I may take a pass on the Jolida 1501 then - and will only consider a good SS speaker amp... if... I decide to try the WEE.  Right now... I'm thinking... I may just use my 007t II, until I can find a 717 to try.  From the various critical comments about the WEE, I'm a bit concerned it may not be a good alternative, even with a good SS speaker amp.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> It's all relative.  IIRC, the Wee is Pro bias only, even though Jack has yet to use the correct jacks or plug the center hole in the cheap Amphenol jack he chose to use in the Wee instead of adding $50 to the cost and using the PTFE jacks.  That said, for a Pro bias Stax headphone, the Wee is probably the best energizer available commercially ATM.  But the transformers are not 300KHz or higher bandwidth units on ferrite cores.  With a proper core you can easily achieve 450KHz or higher bandwidth with a starting frequency of of 2-3Hz or lower.  You need the low starting frequency and the very, very high bandwidth to keep a frequency response and transient response time similar to the lower end dedicated amps.  But for $500 you can buy a much better set of custom transformers and a PCB from Spritzer to make your own energizer with both the Pro and Normal bias as well as a third bias if you want to run HE90s or Koss 950s at a higher bias than the 580V Pro bias.


 

 Do you mean... "make your own energizer," or "make your own transformer" (like the WEE) for use with a speaker amp? 
   
  And... even with the "better custom transformers," will it be as good as say... the 717, or GES, or KGSS with the O2?
   
  So... is Spritzer "the source" for such stuff?


----------



## spritzer

I'm not "the source" but I've made PCB's which produce the bias necessary to drive the phone and allow you to use what ever transformers you'd wish.  A Stax transformer is in its basic form just a backwards connected tube output transformer so these can be used providing they fit the specs needed. 
   
  As for the transformer quality,  this is what matters here.  How it is wound, the core type and material are all vital ingredients.  The Woo WEE may be the best option out there but that is simply because it is the only option out there. For 500$ you can easily buy two Lundahl LL1630P-P transformers and build your own transformer which is a far better solution.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I'm not "the source" but I've made PCB's which produce the bias necessary to drive the phone and allow you to use what ever transformers you'd wish.  A Stax transformer is in its basic form just a backwards connected tube output transformer so these can be used providing they fit the specs needed.
> 
> As for the transformer quality,  this is what matters here.  How it is wound, the core type and material are all vital ingredients.  The Woo WEE may be the best option out there but that is simply because it is the only option out there. For 500$ you can easily buy two Lundahl LL1630P-P transformers and build your own transformer which is a far better solution.


 

 So... where would I find the design... that... a layman can follow.  I assume you can get the parts from Mouser, or Jameco, or such?
  
  How 'bout this?  Is this what you're talking about?
   
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html


----------



## vrln

SRM-600 and SR-507 have landed! Sounded shocking broken in the beginning, but either psychological or physical burn in is a reality (this is a brand new amp and can), or I´m going crazy. Because it already sounds completely different. Granted, Audio-gd sounds bad after a cold boot too, so it´s a double effect. The amp is fed by a REF7.
   
  Obviously these impressions are far too early to mean anything, but in case someone cares:
   
  *disclaimer: this is my first STAX, only heard SR-404 Signature before*
   
  - Best highs and mids I´ve heard in headphones, completely grainless. Vocals have never been this clear on any dynamic headphones I´ve heard (or the LCD2). Extended non-fatiguing highs that aren´t sibilant - haven´t heard dynamics do this either.
  - Soundstage is miles beyond LCD-2, but not on HD 800 level. Something like a HD 600/650 in that. The soundstage extends a lot to the sides, but not in the front.
  - Best instrument separation I´ve heard.
  - Slightly forward mids.
  - Airy and transparent, pretty much the opposite of LCD-2.
  - Overall less bright than the 404-Signature. I can understand that these are probably leaning on the bright side, but it´s nothing compared to a T1/HD800. They are both way, way brighter than these.
  - Less bass impact than leading dynamics, and also I have a feeling HD 800 extends lower than these. The impact seems to have increased during this very brief burn in - it was very non-existant at first. Now "ok". Bass control is on par with HD 800, but the biggest difference is that there is zero artificial decay on these. Some might not like it.
  - Bonus points for making me tap my feet, while still being hyperdetailed. More detailed than a HD 800.
  - Nice build quality, but the cardboard boxes look a bit silly being used to the wooden boxes/Sennheiser style packaging  Luckily I didn´t pay for packaging...
  - SR507 is extremely comfortable if you have a small head, for a large one I can imagine it being not so good.
   
  Even if there would be no more changes to the sound: I´m done with headphones. This is a good enough end point for me (but no, they are not perfect - but easily better than the HD 800/LCD2 I used to own). Maybe someday I´ll check out the STAX flagships if I can afford them  Electrostats sound suprisingly different than dynamics - not everyone will like them. Especially with the few live albums I tried, prefer high end dynamics. But for studio albums, no contest. More impressions later - oh and please take these with a grain of salt as I´ve only listened to this rig for around 5 hours now. Last but not least, I love the glow of the tubes.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> So... where would I find the design... that... a layman can follow.  I assume you can get the parts from Mouser, or Jameco, or such?
> 
> How 'bout this?  Is this what you're talking about?
> 
> http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html


 

 Bingo!  You can also calculate your values to provide a 230V Normal Bias as well as any other bias levels you wish for your non-Stax headphones.  Notice the Lundahl transformers are rated to 40KHz bandwidth at -0.5dB it's -1dB point may be 42KHz or better, but I suspect it rolls off rapidly which is fine for speakers and more critical for the energizer application.  The Woo Wee units are probably -1db best case or -3db typical at 40KHz.  The speed of the energizer box will improve the higher the bandwidth, so assuming quality of the construction is equal, a 120KHz -0.5dB transformer will have a faster transient response time over the 40KHz unit.  Plitron has units capable of 250KHz-almost 500KHz bandwidth by their spec's, but as Spritzer pointed out many months ago, you don't always get what expect with Plitron nowadays.  I suspect a few of the custom winders overseas could easily hit the 400KHz bandwidth on ferrite cores, but they will be $300-$500ea units.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> So... where would I find the design... that... a layman can follow.  I assume you can get the parts from Mouser, or Jameco, or such?
> 
> How 'bout this?  Is this what you're talking about?
> 
> http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html


 

 Yup, that's the one.  The bias supply is something I'd never build since it isn't really compatible with the current Stax setup and it is just a gigantic waste of money.


----------



## vrln

Ok... I´ve listened to this almost all the time since I got the gear. I could write a long list of what exactly is great about it (if someone is interested, feel free to PM me), but it´s mostly said in my first impressions already. Probably what sums it all up is that I´m done with headphones, this is my end point (except if I someday buy a C32 or O2/KGSS or something similar). That says more than a long list of its strenghts. Easily prefer these to LCD-2 and the HD 800. All roads seemed to lead to STAX indeed, at least in my case. Future gear will be DAC/preamp/speaker related.


----------



## LarsHP

Sounds wonderful that you found your "audio nirvana".
  Just keep on writing about your impressions ...
   
  How is the deep bass (20-40Hz) response/impact?
  (I am considering either the SR-507 or the HiFiMan HE-6, and the latter may have an edge in that respect.)


----------



## vrln

I´d say the HE-6 probably has more impact, the LCD-2 at least does. I don´t think the SR-507 goes as deep either, but it´s hard to say as these tubes haven´t even burned in for a few days yet so it might change. The SR-507 has more bass than the 404 Signature I´ve tried before. To me SR-507 has better control in the bass though, and the texture sounds more detailed too. These simply show a lot more detail than any previous gear I´ve heard (that includes my studio monitors), without sounding analytical.
   
  The HE-6 (if it sounds anything like an LCD-2) is really different in many areas compared to STAX. I see you currently use a K701 (I like that one too) - you might not like what orthos do. They are severely soundstage limited compared to that, but do excel in other areas. If possible, I d try to get the chance to audition an LCD-2 at least (they are more common) before going HE-6.


----------



## coolcat

The New Stax Flagship may probably be called "Sr-009". The release Date could  be 23/03. (Rumour )


----------



## edstrelow

I wonedr if the earthquake is going to set things back.


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I wonedr if the earthquake is going to set things back.


 







 I hope that I don't understand that correctly...


----------



## LarsHP

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´d say the HE-6 probably has more impact, the LCD-2 at least does. I don´t think the SR-507 goes as deep either, but it´s hard to say as these tubes haven´t even burned in for a few days yet so it might change. The SR-507 has more bass than the 404 Signature I´ve tried before. To me SR-507 has better control in the bass though, and the texture sounds more detailed too. These simply show a lot more detail than any previous gear I´ve heard (that includes my studio monitors), without sounding analytical.
> 
> The HE-6 (if it sounds anything like an LCD-2) is really different in many areas compared to STAX. I see you currently use a K701 (I like that one too) - you might not like what orthos do. They are severely soundstage limited compared to that, but do excel in other areas. If possible, I d try to get the chance to audition an LCD-2 at least (they are more common) before going HE-6.


 
  Thanks for your impressions on the SR-507.
  I think I want to try the HE-6 as the "best shot" for my preferences. The reason for upgrading was the lack in bass response from the K-701 - even well amped.
  Secondly, I think the reason for some people experiencing odd soundstage with the HE-6 and others don't, is lack of power from the amp.
  The HE-6 needs both high levels and high quality (speed) of current, as I understand it.
  However, I am surely on to the Stax SR-507, if the HiFiMan HE-6 doesn't give me the "full package": deep bass as well as transparency througout the audio spectrum.
  It is 1200 $, so mostly satisfied is far from enough for me.


----------



## vrln

No problem... Just be prepared for a more intimate and closed in soundstage compared to the K701. I found the LCD-2 soundstaging severely lacking. The HE-6 is better in this regard from what I´ve read, but it´s still an ortho... They aren´t exactly soundstage monsters, any current or previous generation dynamic headphone flagship will beat them there. The weight is also something to consider - even if the LCD-2 were good enough (which they weren´t - in my experience they are not even close to the SR-507 sound quality or comfort wise), I still would have ended up selling them just because they´re too heavy and uncomfortable to wear.
   
  As most things in audio, it´s a question of taste. Hope you enjoy them, and if not, I´ve found the for sale forums very useful. It´s suprisingly easy to swap around gear


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I wonedr if the earthquake is going to set things back.


 


   


  Quote: 





petyot said:


> I hope that I don't understand that correctly...


 

 Stax are made in Japan, Petyot.


----------



## LarsHP

Is there a frequency response chart of the SR-507?
  I have been Google'ing without finding any ...


----------



## coolcat

The name and the release date of the new Stax Flagship came from Thai distributor.Hope the earthquake won't set it back.
  By the way I hope the japannese can recover the things quickly. So sad to hear many people died.


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *John Buchanan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Stax are made in Japan, Petyot.


 
   

  John,
   
  I know that they are made in Japan… 
   
  My point was that we have a country facing a BIG disaster with some potential nuclear threat, thousands of people missing or dead and we have some people here “who worries” about the fact that the earthquake could “set back the release date of the new Stax ”…
   
  But once again, maybe did I misunderstood their point (English is not my first language)


----------



## edstrelow

I wouldn't say I worry about the possible delay of the new flagship phone, since I am not going to be an early adopter,  but since we had a report, after the earthquake,  that the model was scheduled to come out next week, it seems appropriate to note that this could be delayed by the earthquake. This is after all a forum about Stax.
   
  Stax is currently the only major supplier of the electrostatic technology which feeds our obsession, so the effect of the earthquake on this company  is a real issue to this forum.  I believe their factory is near Tokyo which,  as Arnaud who lives  there, notes in his C32 thread  was badly shaken up but still seems to be functioning.  I received an e-mail yesterday from another Japanese company, from which I had bought some anime figures for my kids, with video of the quake shaking up their distribution center.  It sustained a trashing but no obvious structural damage. One hopes that Stax rides the quake out as well.
   
  The Japanese earthquake is a shocking event and my wife has had our living room tv on  pretty much  all the time running the reports from Japan.   I have experienced a fair number of earthquakes,  both in Southern California and where I previously lived, in Christchurch New Zealand.  So far none are close to being as bad as what happened in Japan or the recent Christchurch quake.  Our local earthquake rescue teams had just back back from Christchurch when they were shipped off to Japan.   
   
  I know that the "big one," as we call it here, could happen  at any time.  One remembers the phrase "do not ask for whom the bell tolls." .


----------



## coolcat

@edstrelow don't worry,we know you just want to give the information about the release date and meant nothing more and  petyot may have this misinterpret. you ,I and We all here are sad about this story.
  My memory still remains,as the Tsunami killed many people in Thailand(my land) some years back, I'm really sorry for the Japanese. Hope the things will get better real soon.


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





coolcat said:


> @edstrelow don't worry,we know you just want to give the information about the release date and meant nothing more and  petyot may have this misinterpret. you ,I and We all here are sad about this story.
> My memory still remains,as the Tsunami killed many people in Thailand(my land) some years back, I'm really sorry for the Japanese. Hope the things will get better real soon.


 
   
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I wouldn't say I worry about the possible delay of the new flagship phone, since I am not going to be an early adopter,  but since we had a report, after the earthquake,  that the model was scheduled to come out next week, it seems appropriate to note that this could be delayed by the earthquake. This is after all a forum about Stax.
> 
> Stax is currently the only major supplier of the electrostatic technology which feeds our obsession, so the effect of the earthquake on this company  is a real issue to this forum.  I believe their factory is near Tokyo which,  as Arnaud who lives in there, notes in his C32 thread  was badly shaken up but still seems to be functioning.  I received an e-mail yesterday from another Japanese company, from which I had bought some anime figures for my kids, with video of the quake shaking up their distribution center.  It sustained a trashing but no obvious structural damage. On hopes that Stax rides the quake out as well.
> 
> ...


 

  Thanks for making things clearer (for me). I realize I misunderstood what was your point in your previous post. Sorry about that.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





vrln said:


> SRM-600 and SR-507 have landed...
> 
> - Best highs and mids I´ve heard in headphones, completely grainless. Vocals have never been this clear on any dynamic headphones I´ve heard (or the LCD2). Extended non-fatiguing highs that aren´t sibilant - haven´t heard dynamics do this either.
> - Soundstage is miles beyond LCD-2, but not on HD 800 level. Something like a HD 600/650 in that. The soundstage extends a lot to the sides, but not in the front.
> ...


 

 I tend to agree with most of these observations re:  the Stax 507's and the 007t II.
   
  They sound very much like my AD2000's, but with a slight bit more resolution, separation, detail, soundstage, etc. - but, very similar.  I think the AD2000's remind me so much of the 507's, because the 507's have a very dynamic sound... but, with the hallmark Stax sound qualities. Enough so, that one who is unwilling to make the investment in a Stax setup, can be a "vicarius Stax fan" with a good AD2000 set up. 
   
  And... now I've had some time to try out my new 007 MKII's with the 007t II - they seem to have a bit bigger, warmer, richer and smoother sound than the 507's - just more refined, overall.  Though, the 507's tend to have a bit more dynamic sound, more like the AD2000's. 
   
  Both are great.  Enough so, that I think I'll "take a pass" on the LCD-2's and HE-6's.  We'll see.  But... for now, it seems like it will be hard to improve on the sound of the 507's and 007 MKII's. 
   
*Just curious - how much improvement the GES (maxed), or KGSS, or even the SRM-717 / 727 might make to these phones?*
   
  For example, do they give the 007's a much more dynamic sound, etc?   It would have to be quite a bit (more than 10-20%) to justify the price differential for me.   I'm just not inclined to make the investment without dramatic improvements. 
   
  And... the WES and BHSE are not even considerations for me, since I don't believe they can make such a dramatic improvement in the sound quality that could possibly justify their cost.  That is... you can achieve truly great sound with other much less costly phones and set ups (e.g. WA6 SEm + AD2000's, or HD650's).  As I've said elsewhere... I'm just not enough of a "connoisseur" to appreciate the "nuance" of those much more costly electrostatic amps.


----------



## vrln

Interesting points. The person who sold me my SRM-600 said he feels it sounds similar to the 007tII. The output power is the same at least (340V). I would definately not buy either one of those orthodynamics without trying them first. In my experience the LCD-2 is not even in the same league as the SR-507 (or the SR-404 Signature I listened to). But this is of course very subjective.
   
  For Lambdas personally going any further would be overkill, but I think most of the experienced Stax users here would say that the SR-007 benefits from a a GES/KGSS/727. How much? I have no idea  If you are happy with the 007 tube amp, I wouldn´t worry! 
   
  The rig you have is fantastic, don´t get too caught up with upgrade fever 
   
  PS: I made a small Stax Lambda guide for newbies, putting together all my research I did when I was thinking about buying my Stax setup. It´s at http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/544516/stax-lambda-primer-for-electrostat-newbies


----------



## svyr

vrln said:


> I would definately not buy either one of those orthodynamics without trying them first. In my experience the LCD-2 is not even in the same league as the SR-507 (or the SR-404 Signature I listened to)


bass-heads with otherdynamics are going to beat you up with really heavy headphones for that


----------



## Gradofan2

Yeah... I would guess the SRM-600 Ltd may have a bit less tubey, more SS sound / dynamic sound - which might mate pretty well with the 02's (more like the 717 / 727, perhaps).
   
  I'm thinking an amp with higher output voltage, will give the 007's a more dynamic sound, somewhat more like the 507's.  Just a guess.  But, if so, it would be good - the 507's are great.


----------



## vrln

I think they have too much neck pain from wearing all that Coca Cola bottle level weight on their heads. It´s very difficult to swing around a heavy tool like an orthodynamic headphone then...


----------



## svyr

don't worry, there are many of ortho followers, hitting people with othos for not appreciating the OMGBBQBESTBASSEVUR is a team sport


----------



## coolcat

eventough I own the O2 and like the 507 so much,that I will buy them soon.The LCD2 are not bad headphones at all.For some vocal and rnb song I like the LCD2 more than the O2 and 507. The HE6 are good headphones too,but I just sold them cuz I think they are such a redundant ,if you already have O2 and plan to buy 507. Orthodynamics are not that bad compared to HD800 (which I have now) and T1 (which I already sold,after I had the HE6), I think I like the Orthos more.


----------



## MrGreen

Orthodynamic will not be comparable to electrostatic until they a. are using graphene as a conductive surface on an extremely thin diaphragm or b. are using graphene as the entire driver (which should be possible because of it's diamagnetic properties and conductance).
   
  It's a 2D lattice, stronger than steel and can be made by putting slices of graphite between tape and pulling the tape apart (seriously).
   
  If there's not serious R&D going into it already, I'm very disappointed. I'm sure graphene could be used in many headphones, but I think something similar to orthodynamic would produce the best results. Having your typical electromagnetic setup, and running current through the diaphragm (as a bias-like charge) seems like a way that could work but I haven't really given it much thought
   
   
  IMO, YMMV, etc.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> IMO, YMMV, etc.


 
  Ad infinitum, ad nauseum, ad hoc, ad addendum, ad hominem, etc, etc, etc.......


----------



## drhoooon

I'm looking to buy my first Stax system..
   
  1. What is a fair price on a used Stax 2020? I've been offered $425
  2. I already have a Nuforce HD (amp/dac) so would it be better for me to get a Senn 650 for $320 or any other dynamic headphones for $400? I'm not sure if the entry level Stax system would be more of an upgrade or side-grade...
  3. Should I go for newer Stax like 404?
   
  Sorry if these questions doesn't belong in hi-end forum. There doesn't seem to be much discussion of Stax in regular headphones section


----------



## Pabro

My SR-407 + SRM 323S has been at home for about a week now (MacBook -> toslink -> Scott Nixon TD). I can see there is still room for breaking in, yet it has already made me smile. I listen 90% classical music and 9.99% OST (mostly movie OST, so most of them are still played by an orchestra). To me it's quite balanced and detailed. The dynamics is awesome, which is quite important to me since I listen to symphonies a lot. I worried about the bass before my purchase, since this is the first set of ES I own; yet it turns out that the bass is really good. Not as punchy and deep as electrodynamics (I used to own a HD650 for a long time), but that's just how it should be presented, IMO, according to my experience in the live concerts.
   
  Only one thing that I'm still trying to optimize is the treble. It sounds a little bright to me. Especially when playing well-recorded violin works, I felt the treble makes the music a tiny bit of little unbalance, and will feel more fatigue compared with listening to some other music, like chamber or symphonies.
   
   
  I think maybe there are several reasons: I use a SS amp; the STAX system needs to break-in more; and I'm getting old...ears prefer a little more midrange and a little less treble.


----------



## vrln

Spritzer: If I remember correctly I once read you have modified older Stax tube amps to accept the ECC99 tubes. Have you by any chance tried the new gold pin version? (http://www.jjtubes.eu/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=904). It is manufactured under a lot more strict tolerances. The guy I bought this SRM-600 from said it provides a nice boost to the sound quality, mostly by making it sound even smoother.


----------



## Pabro

Quote: 





drhoooon said:


> I'm looking to buy my first Stax system..
> 
> 1. What is a fair price on a used Stax 2020? I've been offered $425
> 2. I already have a Nuforce HD (amp/dac) so would it be better for me to get a Senn 650 for $320 or any other dynamic headphones for $400? I'm not sure if the entry level Stax system would be more of an upgrade or side-grade...
> ...


 

 1. IMHO, $425 is a decent price, though I've seen deals much cheaper.
  2. Senn 650 is a very good headphone, and my favorite among my electrodynamic HP collection. I can only say from the viewpoint of a classical music listener, that both 2020 and 650 will make you happy. If you don't plan to upgrade, maybe get a 650?
  3. I'm not qualified to help you with this question, since I only have the 407. Maybe you can share more of your preference, like what music to listen, budget...and other experienced head-fier can give you more input.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





vrln said:


> Spritzer: If I remember correctly I once read you have modified older Stax tube amps to accept the ECC99 tubes. Have you by any chance tried the new gold pin version? (http://www.jjtubes.eu/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=904). It is manufactured under a lot more strict tolerances. The guy I bought this SRM-600 from said it provides a nice boost to the sound quality, mostly by making it sound even smoother.


 

 One of my sources uses ECC99's and I tried the gold pin version years ago.  Didn't hear any difference to the normal version aside from the normal difference between different tubes. 
   
  Did the guy rebias the 600 amp when he swapped tubes?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





drhoooon said:


> I'm looking to buy my first Stax system..
> 
> 1. What is a fair price on a used Stax 2020? I've been offered $425
> 2. I already have a Nuforce HD (amp/dac) so would it be better for me to get a Senn 650 for $320 or any other dynamic headphones for $400? I'm not sure if the entry level Stax system would be more of an upgrade or side-grade...
> ...


 

 Have you listened to a low end or mid grade Stax setup yet?
  If not, you should before taking the plunge.
  Go to a local headphone meet or a store that has a demo setup.
  It's not everyone's cup of tea. Fairly bass light, with piercing treble.
  They can be EQ'd though to one's preference, but tend to have a "thinner" sound
  compared to a meaty, bass thumping dynamic phone.
   
  That being said, I love my "low end" 2050 system. I like lots of clean treble highs and not too much bass down low.
  The soundstage, tonal quality and instrument separation cant be beat, providing one has a decent source.
  I have not heard all the dynamic phones that are out there, but Stax-Heads say that most dynamic phones
  can't touch any modern stats in terms of absolute sound quality. IMHO I tend to agree.
  FWIW, for reference dynamics, I have the AKG K702 and the Senn HD555.
  BTW, the SR-202 earspeaker is the same last model iteration as the mid grade 404.
  The newest Stax Lambda earspeaker equivalents are the models 207 and 407 earspeakers.
   
  As for pricing on a used 2020 system, $425 is fair. I've seen them as low as $350.
  But good luck snagging one for that price, they are sold as soon as they are put up for sale.
  The newest equivalent system with the SR-207 stats sells for $675 to $750 new.


----------



## Pabro

Can anyone please comment on the SRM-T1? I've seen some T1s up for sell, and am intrigued to buy one of those.
   
  How does it compare to 323S, if one doesn't have preference on tube or SS? Will it be a good match for the SR-407? I'm gathering information for the SRM-T1, in case that my ear can no longer stand the treble out of a SS amp, I can start with a not so expensive tube amp.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> One of my sources uses ECC99's and I tried the gold pin version years ago.  Didn't hear any difference to the normal version aside from the normal difference between different tubes.
> 
> Did the guy rebias the 600 amp when he swapped tubes?


 
   
  Yeah he rebiased the amp... I just bought some backup tubes, included a few gold pin versions too. I´ll try them when these tubes run out, I´m enjoying the setup too much to start tweaking it before that. Oh and does the ECC99 tube really last two years even with 6-8 hours of use every day? The official spec is 5000 hours, it seems a lot more than most tubes claim. This is my first gear that includes tubes, so I have no idea what to expect really.
   
  I did some googling on the ECC99 gold pin version and could only find one comment on a guitar amp forum, someone said he felt it made things sound too smooth and preferred the slight "grit" of the standard version. Could be people imagining the differences though, the gold pins are good for placebo


----------



## drhoooon

Thank you for the responses Pabro and livewire.
   
  I guess I should first say I loved my Senn HD 600, it was very clear, detailed, and pretty good soundstage imo. If Stax can deliver more on this aspect than the 600, that would be great and I would consider as an upgrade. I have my Grado  for rock and other songs and I think I would use Stax for orchestral pieces and piano. I listen to both 50/50


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





pabro said:


> Can anyone please comment on the SRM-T1? I've seen some T1s up for sell, and am intrigued to buy one of those.
> 
> How does it compare to 323S, if one doesn't have preference on tube or SS? Will it be a good match for the SR-407? I'm gathering information for the SRM-T1, in case that my ear can no longer stand the treble out of a SS amp, I can start with a not so expensive tube amp.
> 
> Thanks.


 

 I haven´t heard the 323S, but it has its fans. Spritzer has posted here that he feels it´s the best amp Stax currently makes. It has a higher output power than the T1 (400V vs 300V). I think you can´t go wrong with either one. The SRM-T1 is pretty much the same (judging by what I´ve read) as the current 006 tube amps, so it´s a proven classic for any Lambda. If the price is good, I´d go for it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Stax includes the 006 tube amp with the SR-407 bundle, that says a lot!


----------



## tigon_ridge

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Have you listened to a low end or mid grade Stax setup yet?
> If not, you should before taking the plunge.
> Go to a local headphone meet or a store that has a demo setup.
> It's not everyone's cup of tea. Fairly bass light, with piercing treble.
> ...


 

 What you said about the 2050 makes me feel very optimistic about it. IMO, people perceive neutral signatures from headphones as thin because they simply don't vibrate your whole body like speakers do. So, to compensate, headphones are tuned to have more bass than neutral. I don't have too much a problem with that until the bass begins to demand more of the spotlight than its fair share.


----------



## svyr

tigon_ridge said:


> What you said about the 2050 makes me feel very optimistic about it. IMO, people perceive neutral signatures from headphones as thin because they simply don't vibrate your whole body like speakers do. So, to compensate, headphones are tuned to have more bass than neutral. I don't have too much a problem with that until the bass begins to demand more of the spotlight than its fair share.




umm 2050 is kinda thin lol (well, SR-202 is)... at least my set was. could really use +2db in the 60hz area and +3db below. but that's just me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





vrln said:


> Yeah he rebiased the amp... I just bought some backup tubes, included a few gold pin versions too. I´ll try them when these tubes run out, I´m enjoying the setup too much to start tweaking it before that. Oh and does the ECC99 tube really last two years even with 6-8 hours of use every day? The official spec is 5000 hours, it seems a lot more than most tubes claim. This is my first gear that includes tubes, so I have no idea what to expect really.
> 
> I did some googling on the ECC99 gold pin version and could only find one comment on a guitar amp forum, someone said he felt it made things sound too smooth and preferred the slight "grit" of the standard version. Could be people imagining the differences though, the gold pins are good for placebo


 

 It's hard to say how long tubes will last but the Stax amps certainly aren't driving them too hard.  I've owned dozens and dozens of T1 amps and most of them still had the stock GE tubes in them.  Those are amps from the late 80's and they haven't been touched in any way so the tubes will last a long time. 
   
  As for the gold pins, never underestimate the power of "ohh it is shiny" or "it costs more so it must be better" on the results of listening tests.  In the context of NOS tubes the JJ's are dirt cheap so why not compare them.


----------



## xaval

I need a bit of advice. Talking with purrin he pointed me to the obvious matter of maintenance of my SRD7SB - bought used. Haven't poped up the case yet, but previous and only owner said it's he never tampered with the electronics, so caps should be changed. I'm not technically skilled for the task so I'll be asking someone else to do it. In this context, what dou you think I should also be doing from a mod/upgrade perspective while the box is being checked? The Lambdas sound great but I imagine after this long while some parts should be experiencing a short death notice soon.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





tigon_ridge said:


> What you said about the 2050 makes me feel very optimistic about it. IMO, people perceive neutral signatures from headphones as thin because they simply don't vibrate your whole body like speakers do. So, to compensate, headphones are tuned to have more bass than neutral. I don't have too much a problem with that until the bass begins to demand more of the spotlight than its fair share.


 


  I think you're going to be OK. They sound rather different so you can use the 2020 for a change of pace. In short, it's going to sound thinner, faster, and brighter than your HD600.


----------



## Pabro

Quote: 





vrln said:


> I haven´t heard the 323S, but it has its fans. Spritzer has posted here that he feels it´s the best amp Stax currently makes. It has a higher output power than the T1 (400V vs 300V). I think you can´t go wrong with either one. The SRM-T1 is pretty much the same (judging by what I´ve read) as the current 006 tube amps, so it´s a proven classic for any Lambda. If the price is good, I´d go for it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for the input, it's really helpful! My only concern now is whether most of the T1s need parts change since they've been out of the factory for quite a while, so maybe some of the parts are aging, and needs some maintenance. Oh, and I'll need to sell my 323S to fund it up.


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's hard to say how long tubes will last but the Stax amps certainly aren't driving them too hard.  I've owned dozens and dozens of T1 amps and most of them still had the stock GE tubes in them.  Those are amps from the late 80's and they haven't been touched in any way so the tubes will last a long time.
> 
> As for the gold pins, never underestimate the power of "ohh it is shiny" or "it costs more so it must be better" on the results of listening tests.  In the context of NOS tubes the JJ's are dirt cheap so why not compare them.


 

 Good point - luckily the gold pin versions only cost a few dollars more than the standard JJ ECC99. If they really would be audibly better, I doubt Stax would have used the standard versions in the first place. But at least they look shinier. Thanks for the info on the tubes, I guess I won´t have to be replacing them anytime soon then...


----------



## Michgelsen

The T1 is a fine amp. I owned it for a long time and was pleased with it. You'd probably want to renew the capacitors in the power supply but that's not very expensive to have done. Whether it's a step up from your 323S, I doubt. Why go through the hassle when you have a good amp already? That wouldn't be an upgrade, just a 'sidegrade'.
   
  Quote: 





pabro said:


> Thanks for the input, it's really helpful! My only concern now is whether most of the T1s need parts change since they've been out of the factory for quite a while, so maybe some of the parts are aging, and needs some maintenance. Oh, and I'll need to sell my 323S to fund it up.


----------



## Gradofan2

So...
   
  ... IF... I upgrade to the KGSS from the 007t II is the improvement in sound going to be worth the investment? 
   
  I like the sound of the 507's and 02 MKII's (especially the 507's) with the 007t II, but I'm wondering if upgrading the amp is really going to make much difference. 
   
  Comparing my "new" version HD580/600/650's to my current Stax Stuff... I really think I like the sound of the "new version" Senn's just as well... maybe... even better.  With the RAL Cryo-silver cable my "tweaked" Senns driven by my WA6 SEm, or my Millett MiniMAX, sound very much like my Stax Stuff (i.e. fast, clear, detailed, airy), but with more impact, and slightly warmer mids.  And... my AD2000's sound even more similar. 
   
  So... I'm just wondering... can the KGSS really give the Stax Stuff more dynamics, and more impact... and... improve on the resolution and clarity, and make it sound much better than my Senn's and AD2000's... enough... to justify the added cost.  Or... are we just talking "nuance." 
   
  And... the WES and BHSE are not an option, I refuse to invest that kind of money in any headphone amp (just in case they can make that much difference) - I'll just live with my Senn's.  (Though, I might be willing to try a 717... IF... I ever find one).


----------



## cswann1

It might be better to ask what differences others have heard between the two amps.  Nobody will be able to tell you if it's worth the investment.  Only you can decide that.
   
  I'd like to hear about the "new" HD580 though.  Are you referring to the cable upgrade?
  Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> So...
> 
> ... IF... I upgrade to the KGSS from the 007t II is the improvement in sound going to be worth the investment?
> 
> Comparing my "new" version HD580/600/650's to my current Stax Stuff...


----------



## complin

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Have you listened to a low end or mid grade Stax setup yet?
> It's not everyone's cup of tea. Fairly bass light, with piercing treble.
> They can be EQ'd though to one's preference, but tend to have a "thinner" sound
> compared to a meaty, bass thumping dynamic phone.


   
  IMHO this in not how I would describe a 2050 system at all
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I can think of many dynamic phones that have over exagerated bass and very bright treble, but could never describe any Stax as such.  Yes I agree you wont get thumping overwhelming bass, but is this really how the music sounds for real?
  The 2050 amp is quite capable of driving the Omega O2's respectably, providing you are not looking for the last ounce of detail.  If you are a bass head looking for over exagerated one note bass then you just wont like any Stax model at all!  In my experience all models, even the cheapest, strive to provide a clear and neutral sound without exagerating any particular frequency range.  A good CD source works wonders with the 202's.  As you progress up the Stax models you tend to get more refinement and articulation and as with all high end gear you soon run into diminishing returns.  Yes the O2's are great but in relation to their cost over the 202 they are not five times better!


----------



## spritzer

The difference between amps is a hot topic but for me it is pretty big, certainly large enough to be picked up easily is a double blind test.  This does depend on the music you listen to though.  Ever wonder why small chamber music is so often used to show audio gear?  Because it doesn't test the system at all.  Same thing applies here, put on some large scale classical music or metal and you can instantly hear the difference a CCS for the output stage makes.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





cswann1 said:


> It might be better to ask what differences others have heard between the two amps.  Nobody will be able to tell you if it's worth the investment.  Only you can decide that.
> 
> I'd like to hear about the "new" HD580 though.  Are you referring to the cable upgrade?


 

 You may be right... but... I want to see if there is a "significant magnitude" of improvement. 
   
  And... the AD2000's and Senn's are by no means phones with overemphasized "one-note" bass.  With the right set up, they're virtually as refined as the Stax Stuff, but with a bit more impact.  In fact, the "new" version HD580/600/650's sound very, very similar to the 02's in their balance.  The 507's and 02's (which I have), do have a wee bit more resolution, and the 507's are flatter... but... otherwise, very similar.  And... I'm not sure their greater cost is really justified by (proportionate to) their "refinement in sound" - at least not yet - maybe, with a better amp.
   
  I'm really trying to determine, if others' experience with the KGSS, has made a "proportionate improvement" in their sound.   
   
  As far as the great sound of the "new version" HD580/600/650's - I'll PM you... and... you can do some searches on the Senn threads - that topic has been discussed in great detail there - those phones have incredible potential, with the right set up and tweaks... which most have never experienced.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> or metal


 

 The difference in clipping?


----------



## ujamerstand

More like distortions on complex passages, but sure, difference in clipping. haha 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and yes, heavy metal with stax is great.


----------



## cswann1

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The difference between amps is a hot topic but for me it is pretty big, certainly large enough to be picked up easily is a double blind test.  This does depend on the music you listen to though.  Ever wonder why small chamber music is so often used to show audio gear?  Because it doesn't test the system at all.  Same thing applies here, put on some large scale classical music or metal and you can instantly hear the difference a CCS for the output stage makes.


 

 Good points, but the small chamber music can also be used to compare and contrast. If this is music that you will likely spend a lot of time listening to then things like texture, detail, instrument separation and spacial representation are important and can be judged easily with a well known piece of chamber music.


----------



## spritzer

Properly designed amps don't clip, the transducers go into self destruct mode before that should ever happen... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
   
  The real issue here is moving from the general HF consensus which classifies an amp being able to drive some headphone simply because it gets loud enough for deaf people to use.  This is just wrong as loudness is just a factor of gain and input voltage assuming the bloody thing doesn't clip like mad.  It rather should be the ability to maintain full voltage swing regardless of the load present which is rather tricky when dealing with drivers which swing from 66K to 66M


----------



## svyr

spritzer said:


> Properly designed amps don't clip, the transducers go into self destruct mode before that should ever happen...




To be fair SRM-252a and 300 did clip before my ears  or the 202/404 dying.



>The real issue here is moving from the general HF consensus which classifies an amp being able to drive some headphone simply because it gets loud enough for deaf people to use. 

 .


----------



## RockCity

Does anyone know the history behind the SR-007 revisions?
   
  I believe the first SR-007 began with serial no. 7XXXX. Subsequently, it became SZ1-XXXX.
   
  SR-007A continued with SZ2-XXXX and is currently on SZ3-XXXX.
   
  There are also minor changes in packaging such as the foam moldings in the flight cases.


----------



## spritzer

The serial numbers don't mean a thing since they vary from region to region.  Only two real revisions, Mk1 and Mk2 but the earliest Mk1's did use a different carry case.  Everything else is the same though.


----------



## RockCity

.


----------



## Gradofan2

Can the SRM-323S make the 02 MKII's, or the 507's, sound better than the SRM-007t II (which is pretty good, already)??? 
   
  It has a max output of 50 v more than the 007t II, can that make enough of a difference to significantly improve the sound of either set of phones over the 007t II?
   
  Just thought... as someone else suggested... that the 323S might help me endure the long wait for a 717, 727, or KGSS.


----------



## MrGreen

Oh hey, a stax dac talent


----------



## schorsch

Where is it?
  Is it a tealnt BD (battery?)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Can the SRM-323S make the 02 MKII's, or the 507's, sound better than the SRM-007t II (which is pretty good, already)???
> 
> It has a max output of 50 v more than the 007t II, can that make enough of a difference to significantly improve the sound of either set of phones over the 007t II?
> 
> Just thought... as someone else suggested... that the 323S might help me endure the long wait for a 717, 727, or KGSS.


 

 I might as well answer this here and define "better" would be the real answer.  The 323 is a really nice amp but it is still limited in some ways and the modded 727 would be a better comparison piece here.  The comparison is really between classic resistor based current sources and transistor based current sources and how the affect the sound of the amp.  I would take the 727 any day but some people do prefer the softer sound you get with the lack of control from the amp.


----------



## Gradofan2

So... the 727 needs the addition / replacement of 4 resistors - is that the mod? 
   
  And... does it also need an increase, or change, in the gain? 
   
  Are there pics of these mods here, or on Headphonia, or somewhere?
   
  Just wondered how difficult they would be for a "layman."


----------



## Michgelsen

Changing the gain is optional.


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yes I will smite him... with my HE-6 though . Never my LCD-2 even if they are heavier.
   
  When I finally decide which two headphones to sell I will probably try a 507 out... Been ***** footing but really it is too much to ask for a headphone to be both an LCD-2 and a Stax at the same time like I had been desperately hoping so I might as well have both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  The only real deterrent is the fact it would seem heavier losses would be sustained from selling stax and/or harder to sell than your typical dynamic phone if I really didn't like them.
   
  As Mr.Green was posting about it really would be neat to see some serious RnD in orthodynamic phones (not that I find the LCD-2 really lacking/offending in any manner other than weight and perhaps "air") because they really do seem to be the happy medium between dynamics and stats for many.
   
  That being said ortho bass zealots such as myself seem to have more eclectic tastes than most around here. Treble heavy heavy/basslight headphones are fine for many genres (most?) of music that are non-electronic. That and I personally believe most of us really are not used to hearing the low hz info in music if they haven't spent lots of time with real instruments, or people who focus more on melody than rhythm. I don't listen to only electronic by any means but I don't like to have a headphone suck at any specific genre which it would seem previous non O2 Stax did. If it weren't for that and the prohibitive costs of the O2 I probably would have gone Stax a long time ago.
   
  If anyone wants to loan me their 507 feel free
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I know you personally mentioned EQ and I have been doing subtractive EQ with my HD 800 with great success (EQ out the peaks). Does positive EQ in the bass for Stax ever have horrid levels of distortion?


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Where is it?
> Is it a tealnt BD (battery?)
> 
> Regards Georg


 


  French ebay. Pricey, though, but I have no idea how much they usually go for


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> So... the 727 needs the addition / replacement of 4 resistors - is that the mod?
> 
> And... does it also need an increase, or change, in the gain?
> 
> ...


 

 Remove 4 resistors and add 4 others of equal value.  You can change the gain but I don't recommend it since it causes some very mild noise issues.  Those could be tracked down and fixed (mostly tied to layout issues with the boards) but I simply wouldn't bother. 
   
  You can find the mods on the site which cannot be mentioned...


----------



## Pabro

Hi all, sorry for a dummy question: Can I connect the input of a STAX amp with the output of a pre-amp for speaker? Will that damage the unit? I saw a lot of ad saying their headphone amp can be used as a pre-amp, so I think the answer to my question would be NO. But I'd like to confirm it in here. Thank you guys.


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> Yes I will smite him... with my HE-6 though . Never my LCD-2 even if they are heavier.
> 
> When I finally decide which two headphones to sell I will probably try a 507 out... Been ***** footing but really it is too much to ask for a headphone to be both an LCD-2 and a Stax at the same time like I had been desperately hoping so I might as well have both
> 
> ...


 

 I´m not sure if the LCD-2 goes deeper than the SR-507, but what I´m pretty sure is that it has a lot more impact in the bass in general. In my experience, the LCD-2 sounds like a steamroller. Powerful and steady, but pretty heavy and the construction isn´t very elegant either. Oh and the steamroller drives a straight line in a very narrow endless dark tunnel. The narrow tunnel and the dust in the air there are its main problems. I enjoyed the bass of the LCD-2, but felt it couldn´t be appreciated without the clear air and open skies. It´d be very interesting to see what Sennheiser could do with ortho tech though, as they seem to be the market leaders when it comes to soundstage. An ortho with a much larger soundstage than the current models would be great (I´d still stay with Stax though, this dreamlike sound has me too hooked)
   
  Stax gear has a really unique etherial, delicate delivery. It never sounds gritty or overly aggressive. I bet many will feel Stax sounds too "polite" compared to many dynamics or orthos. An LCD-2 kind of bass would sound very out of place in the overall sound signature. To be honest I don´t think you´ll like the SR-507 as a genre-agnostic headphone at least. If you´ve heard any Stax you pretty much know what to expect, except the SR-507 is a more refined version of it. But general ´stat sound style is still there in the SR-507. You might like it as a genre-specific headphone though (vocals stuff especially), but in that case it´s a pretty large investment considering the "profit". In the end what´s important in audio is to find your own personal Xanadu. Nothing wrong in feeling the orthos are exactly that. We all have different preferences.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Remove 4 resistors and add 4 others of equal value.  You can change the gain but I don't recommend it since it causes some very mild noise issues.  Those could be tracked down and fixed (mostly tied to layout issues with the boards) but I simply wouldn't bother.
> 
> You can find the mods on the site which cannot be mentioned...


 

 Oh... I didn't realize... 
   
  ... I guess I've never read "the rules." 
   
  And... I guess... I don't have enough "passion and perseverance" to continue my Stax pursuit - just too many hurdles to get there... or... exhorbitant costs to achieve a marginal improvement in sound quality over good dynamic set ups, which are far less costly. 
   
  Oh... I suppose... if one were fortunate enough to "luck upon" a 717, it might have been OK... but... they seem to be "few and far between."  But... even then... from what I can tell from the Stax setups I've tried... the improvement in sound quality would be marginal.  So... I've sold both the 007 MKII and the 007t II.  And... have abandoned the "02 pursuit." 
   
  I still have the 507's, which I thought sounded much better with the 007t II than the 007 MKII's... and... I may try the 323S with them, just to see if they get any better with higher output voltage in an all SS amp - but, I'm skeptical that they will be better than my dynamic set ups.  They do sound great... with great clarity, detail, resolution, and soundstage.  And... they've got pretty good bass and mids... but... I'm not really sure they're much better than what I've got, if any better.   And... I'm just not certain... it's worth the additional investment in a setup that can't be used with anything other than Stax phones, for rather subtle improvements in sound.  We'll see...
   
  The more I experiment with various setups... the more I realize this hobby is really all about "nuance" and preference, without any "giant leaps" forward, even at significant added investments... no matter how effusive some get over their new stuff.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> And... I guess... I don't have enough "passion and perseverance" to continue my Stax pursuit - just too many hurdles to get there... or... exhorbitant costs to achieve a marginal improvement in sound quality over good dynamic set ups, which are far less costly.
> 
> Oh... I suppose... if one were fortunate enough to "luck upon" a 717, it might have been OK... but... they seem to be "few and far between."  But... even then... from what I can tell from the Stax setups I've tried... the improvement in sound quality would be marginal.  So... I've sold both the 007 MKII and the 007t II.  And... have abandoned the "02 pursuit."


 

 That's too bad. IMO the O2 when driven properly far exceeds any dynamic phone I've heard (which doesn't include the R10). I agree that the amp situation could and should be much better, as unless you have $5K+ to spend on a BHSE, WES, or A-10, the KGSS is really the only game in town. The Stax amp options are perfectly adequate for the SR-507 and below, but not for the O2.
   
  I think there's plenty of room in the market for a ~$3500 SS or tube stat amp (I'd buy one), but nobody is doing one, at least not right now.


----------



## TIMITS

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I think there's plenty of room in the market for a ~$3500 SS or tube stat amp (I'd buy one), but nobody is doing one, at least not right now.


 

  
  This is my point of view also.  Something with the Blue Hawaii's sound capability but without the fancy case would be ideal and a product commercially available for us non DIY's who are a potential fire risk with a soldering iron.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





timits said:


> This is my point of view also.  Something with the Blue Hawaii's sound capability but without the fancy case would be ideal and a product commercially available for us non DIY's who are a potential fire risk with a soldering iron.


 


  Indeed. My guess is that Headamp's eventual KGSS-HV will probably be somewhere around that range, but that still leaves the door wide open for something tube driven and designed for the O2 that can fill the price gap between the GES and the big guns.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> I still have the 507's, which I thought sounded much better with the 007t II than the 007 MKII's... and... I may try the 323S with them, just to see if they get any better with higher output voltage in an all SS amp - but, I'm skeptical that they will be better than my dynamic set ups.  They do sound great... with great clarity, detail, resolution, and soundstage.  And... they've got pretty good bass and mids... but... I'm not really sure they're much better than what I've got, if any better.   And... I'm just not certain... it's worth the additional investment in a setup that can't be used with anything other than Stax phones, for rather subtle improvements in sound.  We'll see...


 

 A member told me that the Omega 2s have much bigger difference in sound from amplification than any dynamics he ever tried... But you already have an electrostatic rig so I guess you won't be missing out on much.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Oh... I didn't realize...
> 
> ... I guess I've never read "the rules."
> 
> ...


 

 717 for sale at the FS forum here.


----------



## Gradofan2

Thanks... but... it's too late for me... maybe someone else.


----------



## schorsch

Dear list members,
   
  I'm looking for information about the *closed* Stax SR-50 design.
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: By the way there is a ED-1 Monitor on ebay Germany. I'm not the seller! Just wanted to tell you.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-50 is just a SR-40/60 with a closed cup filled with mineral wool.  No bass reflex tricks or anything like that.


----------



## mralexosborn

Has anyone tried a listening to a pair of Stax and a pair of speakers simultaneously? I tried my SR404's and a pair of Fostex FE126's and the sound is incredible. Infinite soundstage with the mid to upper frequencies still staying personal. I am still assembling proper cabinets for the FE126's, I wonder if that will make a drastic difference.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> PS: By the way there is a ED-1 Monitor on ebay Germany. I'm not the seller! Just wanted to tell you.


 

 Damn, I'd have snapped that up if it was the signature version

 Are there any plots of what the EDs do in terms of frequency response? It'd give me an easier time than trying to EQ the response of my lambda sigs up to DF


----------



## Pabro

Quote: 





mralexosborn said:


> Has anyone tried a listening to a pair of Stax and a pair of speakers simultaneously? I tried my SR404's and a pair of Fostex FE126's and the sound is incredible. Infinite soundstage with the mid to upper frequencies still staying personal. I am still assembling proper cabinets for the FE126's, I wonder if that will make a drastic difference.


 

 Do you mean sitting in front of a pair of speakers with your headphone on, and output your music simultaneously to the speaker and headphone? What an interesting idea! I never tried that, but am intrigued!


----------



## John Buchanan

Here you go......

  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Damn, I'd have snapped that up if it was the signature version
> 
> Are there any plots of what the EDs do in terms of frequency response? It'd give me an easier time than trying to EQ the response of my lambda sigs up to DF


----------



## MrGreen

Thank you, John. Do you know which version that is? Monitor or Signature?


----------



## mralexosborn

Quote: 





pabro said:


> Do you mean sitting in front of a pair of speakers with your headphone on, and output your music simultaneously to the speaker and headphone? What an interesting idea! I never tried that, but am intrigued!


 


  Try it. My vintage Marantz has a main and remote set of channels so I tried it. I am very impressed.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Thank you, John. Do you know which version that is? Monitor or Signature?


 

 That's the ED-1 for the Lambda Pro. I suspect ( but don't really know) that the ED-1 and the Signature DFE's were the same internally, but tweaked differently to get the same target response at the end. The SRM-Monitor contains the ED-1.


----------



## schorsch

As far as I know there is no difference or only a slight one because:
   
  Audiostax the former stax trader for Germany initiated a Stax CD line with dummy head recordings. (KU81i and KU100 were used)
   
  The really wrote everything about recording the theory of dummy head .... into their booklets.
   
  They used SRM-Monitor amps (with equalization) and Lambdas AND Signatures for the recordings.
   
   
  In their brochure they write someting about ED-1 Signature which also leads into this direction: The ED-1 Signature is slightly larger to fit the SRM-T1 amp OPTICALLY!
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## John Buchanan

The different casing with the same internals wouldn't surprise me - I suspect someone at the Stax Factory adjusted the internal equalisation to match the headphone it was partnered with. 
  The Audiostax "Space Sound" CD has very real 3D sound. A huge booklet, as you say, with lots of references,photos and articles - they used a Fatboy 2cd case just so the booklet could fit!
  Quote: 





schorsch said:


> As far as I know there is no difference or only a slight one because:
> 
> Audiostax the former stax trader for Germany initiated a Stax CD line with dummy head recordings. (KU81i and KU100 were used)
> 
> ...


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





pabro said:


> Hi all, sorry for a dummy question: Can I connect the input of a STAX amp with the output of a pre-amp for speaker? Will that damage the unit? I saw a lot of ad saying their headphone amp can be used as a pre-amp, so I think the answer to my question would be NO. But I'd like to confirm it in here. Thank you guys.


 

 I'm not sure it's the same thing... but... I connect the input on my amps to the output on my "line stage," which I think provides the same voltage / current as a pre-amp (perhaps a bit less), so that the POT of the line stage can adjust the volume as well as the POT on the amp, effectively increasing the total output level.  I did this to drive the 007 MKII's with the 007t II at acceptable volume, because the amp itself was a bit weak with the 007 MKII's... and... to provide a more "tubey" sound, since the "line stage" is a tube hybrid unit. 
   
  If you can do that with your pre-amp, you would want to be sure your speaker amp was not connected to it in a manner that would flow it's power through to your phones.  I don't think you can do that, but just in case...
  
  Why... did you want to do that anyway???  The Lambda's shouldn't need the added power, though the 007's do.
   
  Though... likely the same reason I did - for more tubey sound... or... some have synched up their speaker / sub-woofer with their K-1000's to provide more realistic bass, and soundstage - likely via their pre-amps.


----------



## Gradofan2

Well... "just when I thought I was out... they pulled me back in..." to the Stax club, for one more try at it.  This time with my 507's, which I still haven't sold yet, and Pabro's 323S. 
   
  So... we'll see how this combo "stax up" against my great dynamic set ups - which are exceptional (all very well matched).  I expect it to be better than the 007 MKII / 007t II I had... but... I don't expect it to be much better than my dynamics - at least they weren't the first time. 
   
  We'll see...


----------



## Gradofan2

And... I think it should be made much more clear to all who may contemplate investing in the 007 MKI / MKII's - that unless they plan to invest $5,000 in an amp to drive them properly, they will likley experience uncontrolled bass and rolled off and/or clipped highs even with the 717 or KGSS. 
   
  No one should be exposed to the risk of loss on their investment, simply because they are unaware of the unusually great demands of the 007 MKI / MKII's.  I got out unscathed... but... many won't.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/531743/new-listening-impressions-of-stax-c32-prototype/420#post_7356879


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> And... I think it should be made much more clear to all who may contemplate investing in the 007 MKI / MKII's - that unless they plan to invest $5,000 in an amp to drive them properly, they will likley experience uncontrolled bass and rolled off and/or clipped highs even with the 717 *or KGSS*.
> 
> No one should be exposed to the risk of loss on their investment, simply because they are unaware of the unusually great demands of the 007 MKI / MKII's.  I got out unscathed... but... many won't.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/531743/new-listening-impressions-of-stax-c32-prototype/420#post_7356879


 
  I think comparing dynamics to electrostatics is like comparing fast sports cars to high torque trucks. You may like the dynamics more, but they won't match the elegance and speed.
   
  I plan to hear my 02s out of a KGSS soon. I'll see how uncontrolled the bass and clipped the highs are. I doubt it's a dramatic difference from the BH, but we'll see. I don't think I'd go back to a full blown dynamic rig or get a Lambda either way. Lambda's are supposed to be bright no? All I want is the best midrange and the O2s through the BH had the best mid range I've ever heard. Highs were definitely better than the LCD 2s so I doubt a KGSS is going to make the highs on the O2 even worse than the LCD2s.


----------



## dukja

Please keep us updated on your shoot out.  I am interested in Stax but have not had a chance to try any yet.  Your impression comparing to some dynamic phone would be very interesting to me.
  
  Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Well... "just when I thought I was out... they pulled me back in..." to the Stax club, for one more try at it.  This time with my 507's, which I still haven't sold yet, and Pabro's 323S.
> 
> So... we'll see how this combo "stax up" against my great dynamic set ups - which are exceptional (all very well matched).  I expect it to be better than the 007 MKII / 007t II I had... but... I don't expect it to be much better than my dynamics - at least they weren't the first time.
> 
> We'll see...


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> I think comparing dynamics to electrostatics is like comparing fast sports cars to high torque trucks. You may like the dynamics more, but they won't match the elegance and speed.
> 
> I plan to hear my 02s out of a KGSS soon. I'll see how uncontrolled the bass and clipped the highs are. I doubt it's a dramatic difference from the BH, but we'll see. I don't think I'd go back to a full blown dynamic rig or get a Lambda either way. Lambda's are supposed to be bright no? All I want is the best midrange and the O2s through the BH had the best mid range I've ever heard. Highs were definitely better than the LCD 2s so I doubt a KGSS is going to make the highs on the O2 even worse than the LCD2s.


 

 Well... I have no way of knowing about the 02's when driven with the BHSE or WES... and I'm relying on the reports of others when their driven by the 717 and KGSS - that they have uncontrolled bass and rolled off / clipped highs.  But, that was certainly my experience with the 007t II and the 007 MKII. 
   
  And... the 507's are not especially bright.
   
  And... I can assure you my dynamic set ups sound just as fast, clear, detailed and spacious as either the 007 MKII's I had, or the 507's.  It's all about matching the phones to the proper source and amp.  It just so happens that the Stax when driven by the 007t II are simply no better, and in fact not as good as my dynamic set ups, and are really not as good in most respects.  A more apt analogy may be running a Testarossa (007) on 87 octane gas (007t II) vs 103 octane gas (BHSE).  I suspect the Testarossa's (007's) do sound very good, perhaps even better than my dynamic setups, when run on 103 octane gas (BHSE).  But... won't run at all on anything less.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Well... I have no way of knowing about the 02's when driven with the BHSE or WES... and I'm relying on the reports of others when their driven by the 717 and KGSS - that they have uncontrolled bass and rolled off / clipped highs.  But, that was certainly my experience with the 007t II and the 007 MKII.
> 
> And... the 507's are not especially bright.
> 
> And... I can assure you my dynamic set ups sound just as fast, clear, detailed and spacious as either the 007 MKII's I had, or the 507's.  It's all about matching the phones to the proper source and amp.  It just so happens that the Stax when driven by the 007t II are simply no better, and in fact not as good as my dynamic set ups, and are really not as good in most respects.  A more apt analogy may be running a Testarossa (007) on 87 octane gas (007t II) vs 103 octane gas (BHSE).  I suspect the 007's do sound very good, perhaps even better than my dynamic setups, when run on 103 octane gas.  But... won't run at all on anything less.


 
  I just remembered you had the MK2s. I wonder how different the difference between the MK1 and MK2 would be.


----------



## Deadneddz

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Well... I have no way of knowing about the 02's when driven with the BHSE or WES... and I'm relying on the reports of others when their driven by the 717 and KGSS - that they have uncontrolled bass and rolled off / clipped highs.


----------



## jjinh

I agree with Deadneddz - Gradofan2 What have you been reading?


----------



## n3rdling

He only picks and chooses what he wants to read.  If he did his research (this issue has probably been brought up some 50-100 times _in this thread alone_) he'd note that the tube Stax amps are generally not recommended for the O2s.  Neither are the weak solid state Stax amps or the exstata.  The 717 is a nice amp for the O2s, as are the modded 727, KGSS, and BHSE.  This has been established for years now.  Even though the BHSE is the best amp there is to drive the O2s, that doesn't make those other 3 amps crappy.  People like him are the reason others are under the impression you need $10,000 to have an 'adequate' O2 system as they insist on giving false information and speak louder than those of us know know what we're actually talking about on the issue.


----------



## crumpler

I've actually tried the O2s out of my SRM-1/Mk 2 PP and although i did like my SR-507s more than the O2s, they definitely sounded better to my ears than my HE-6s i had then. But it might be that i've yet to experience the really high end rigs to know what i'm talking about.


----------



## ICQ

STAX SR-009


----------



## MrGreen

And only $5000


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> And only $5000


 
   
  Well it'd be $10000 by the time the Aussie retailers include their markup (the SR-007mk2 sells for $5000 in Sydney).


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





crumpler said:


> I've actually tried the O2s out of my SRM-1/Mk 2 PP and although i did like my SR-507s more than the O2s, they definitely sounded better to my ears than my HE-6s i had then. But it might be that i've yet to experience the really high end rigs to know what i'm talking about.


 

 Oh... they sounded good out of the 007t II I had... they just didn't sound as good as my dynamic phones, since they had the "flabby bass" and rolled off, and clipped highs. 
   
  And... most importantly, with that sound, they were way, way overpriced.  And even moreso, when you consider the $5,000 price you must pay for the amps to achieve their optimum sound, even though it gets rid of the "flabby bass" and rolled off, and clipped highs.
   
  And... you might say the same of the HE-6's - though it's not quite as extreme.  You have to invest quite a lot in those phones as well to achieve their optimum sound, with just the right speaker amp - though, not as much as with the 02's.  
   
  I'm much happier with sound that comes from much less expensive dynamics, and the 507's, that sound very nearly as good, or perhaps better with the right setups.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> He only picks and chooses what he wants to read.  If he did his research (this issue has probably been brought up some 50-100 times _in this thread alone_) he'd note that the tube Stax amps are generally not recommended for the O2s.  Neither are the weak solid state Stax amps or the exstata.  The 717 is a nice amp for the O2s, as are the modded 727, KGSS, and BHSE.  This has been established for years now.  Even though the BHSE is the best amp there is to drive the O2s, that doesn't make those other 3 amps crappy.  People like him are the reason others are under the impression you need $10,000 to have an 'adequate' O2 system as they insist on giving false information and speak louder than those of us know know what we're actually talking about on the issue.


 

 Ah yes... "a true junkie"... who either is incapable of reading, or understanding what he reads (no doubt one of our 70% poorly educated graduates of our failing education systems).  Read my comments again, more closely, perhaps you'll "get it" this time. 
   
  I said nothing about the O2's sounding poor with the BHSE or WES, quite the contrary.  As for the KGSS, read the link I provided - perhaps then you'll "get it."
   
  And... even if you disagree with the posts that report the O2 does not perform it's best (or even competitive with great dynamic setups) with the KGSS, or 717, or 727 - I've seen nothing credible to refute the posters comment about the KGSS with the O2's.  Moreover, an uninformed person should by no means rush out and buy any O2, thinking that he'll "luck onto" a 717, or that he'll modify a 727 (if he can find one at a good price), or achieve their optimum sound with anything less than a BHSE, or perhaps the WES, only to find they must invest a lot more of their hard-earned money to do so. 
   
  The point "my dear friend" is the ridiculous cost of the O2 set up in order to achieve the optimum sound of the O2's... compared to the great sound (perhaps better) you can achieve with dynamic set ups, and others, with much, much smaller investments.
   
  Read, understand, and then respond rationally, not emotionally - you'll be taken far more seriously, if you do.


----------



## FrankCooter

A top tier electrostatic amp should have a gain of about 1k, a swing of about of about 1kV, a current of at least 15mA in the finals, a range of at least 20Hz-30kHz, and THD  distortion under 1%. 
   
  You can buy a top tier amp for  $5k, or you can build something  not exactly the same but with ballpark specs for about $750.  It's definitely possible to put together a very competitive "poor man's" electrostatic system for about $2.5k.


----------



## Deadneddz

Quote:


gradofan2 said:


> I said nothing about the O2's sounding poor with the BHSE or WES, quite the contrary.


 
  
  You have never heard the BHSE, WES, KGSS, 717 or 727.
   
  Since you give advice telling others to read "more closely", here is an article that you need to read: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/270280/stop-recommending-gear-you-ve-never-heard-rant-warning
   
  Quote:


gradofan2 said:


> As for the KGSS, read the link I provided - perhaps then you'll "get it."
> 
> And... even if you disagree with the posts that report the O2 does not perform it's best (or even competitive with great dynamic setups) with the KGSS, or 717, or 727 - I've seen nothing credible to refute the posters comment about the KGSS with the O2's.


   
   
  The "link" that you provided is only one member's personal experience and opinion. If you search, you will find posts from other owners who's opinions differ regarding the above mentioned amps including contrary opinions of the BHSE and other amps you claim will only then justify the O2 which is now at "ridiculous cost" at this point. If one persons opinion regarding the KGSS is credible enough for you to become some sort of representative of the "uninformed person", how will your stance change when you read an opposite view regarding the same amp? The fact is you need to stop taking any "stance" whatsoever and understand that you are "uninformed" and even state that by saying that you have never heard the above equipment yourself.
   
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gradofan2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The point "my dear friend" is the ridiculous cost of the O2 set up in order to achieve the optimum sound of the O2's... compared to the great sound (perhaps better) you can achieve with dynamic set ups, and others, with much, much smaller investments.


   
  "Ridiculous cost" is relative from person to person. Worry about hearing the amps for yourself and deciding whether or not it is a justifiable expense for you. What is not relative is the ridiculous representation and erroneous information you are giving to the "uninformed person".
   
  Quote:


gradofan2 said:


> Read, understand, and then respond rationally, not emotionally - you'll be taken far more seriously, if you do.


   
  Definitely words to live by, please follow them.


----------



## rzy6cn

jjinh said:


> Well it'd be $10000 by the time the Aussie retailers include their markup (the SR-007mk2 sells for $5000 in Sydney).




who cares, will buy from JP at 20, Apr anyway, will get better price even paid full import tax etc.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> And... even if you disagree with the posts that report the O2 does not perform it's best (or even competitive with great dynamic setups) with the KGSS, or 717, or 727 - I've seen nothing credible to refute the posters comment about the KGSS with the O2's.


 
  The poster's comment with the KGSS was with the O2mk2, and well, I doubt even the DIY T2 can completely control it's bass (I could be wrong, they are legendary after all =P).
  They kind of have a.....I would narrowly not call it a 'flaw', in which the mk2 won't properly seal with your head unless you do some simple modifications.
  Try breaking the seal with your 507's by lifting them off your head slightly, you'll notice the bass gets all boomy, that's pretty much what the mk2 is like all the time.
  I think that's credible enough to 'refute' that posters comment, but it would be ridiculously wrong to do so, because that's just a members honest experience.
   
  When someone listens to the O2's from an amp like the BHSE at a meet, they would most likely be listening to the mk1.
  So when someone decides to buy the O2's new, they get the mk2 version with a 'normal' starter stat amp and they might suddenly come to the conclusion that the bass is out of control/flabby because they aren't using one of the top amps. This could possibly explain where all this confusion came from. I think the new O2mk2 owners are simply forgetting that they aren't quite the same as the mk1.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


gradofan2 said:


> And... I think it should be made much more clear to all who may contemplate investing in the 007 MKI / MKII's - that unless they plan to invest $5,000 in an amp to drive them properly, they will likley experience uncontrolled bass and rolled off and/or clipped highs even with the 717 or KGSS.


 

 Quote:
  


gradofan2 said:


> Well... I have no way of knowing about the 02's when driven with the BHSE or WES... and I'm relying on the reports of others when their driven by the 717 and KGSS - that they have uncontrolled bass and rolled off / clipped highs.  But, that was certainly my experience with the 007t II and the 007 MKII.


 
  Do you not see the problems with these two statements? First you say that "uncontrolled bass and rolled off and/or clipped highs even with the 717 or KGSS" with the MK1 and MK2 Omega 2 is some kind of established fact. Have you heard the MK1 at all, or the MK2 with either of the mentioned amps? Nope. Other or "others" have. Well allow me to provide the other side of the argument. My own personal MK1 with both the 717 and the KGSS sounds superb. Denon style uncontrolled bass is nowhere to be found. The highs are not spiked as on some of the more unpleasant dynamics, they are just about perfect.
   
  The idea that you MUST buy a BHSE to get the O2 to not sound like garbage is wrong. The very best is expensive :shock:. What's an Apex Pinnacle cost? There are viable other choices though. More of them would be nice, as I've said many times I think the market is wide open for $3K or 3.5K amps for the O2, but they are there.


----------



## spritzer

KGSS with a rolled off top end and flabby bass?  There is something seriously wrong there...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Ah yes... "a true junkie"... who either is incapable of reading, or understanding what he reads (no doubt one of our 70% poorly educated graduates of our failing education systems).  Read my comments again, more closely, perhaps you'll "get it" this time.
> 
> I said nothing about the O2's sounding poor with the BHSE or WES, quite the contrary.  As for the KGSS, read the link I provided - perhaps then you'll "get it."
> 
> ...


 

  
  You are obvioulsly entitled to your own preferences.However you are being told by several people that your comparisons may not be apt.

 I got into my 007A and 717 set-up for $3K a few years ago.  Cost-wise this is comparable to the balanced Senn HD800 set-up I heard a few years back at Canjam.  Used 007's are dropping in price and will drop even more when the 009 hits the street.  Unfortunately the 717 is not coming down and is still about the $1200 I paid new from Japan.
   
  Certainly your comprehension of this thread suggests you are in the 70% category yourself.
   
  Actually I don't buy the "failing education systems" argument.   Certainly there are bad schools but also bad students.  Some years ago, my wife had to teach kids whose career aspirations were to deal drugs on the street like the rest of their relatives.    We educate more students to a higher academic standard than back in my day, when large numbers of students were sent on to shop courses rather than academic courses, or the ones like the drug dealing kids, were just tossed out.     I don't  argue with that old practice since I doubt that more than about 50% of students are able to really deal with higher education.


----------



## gomincha

Gradofan2 if I were you, I would already be worried about the Stax Mafia!!


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Ah yes... "a true junkie"... who either is incapable of reading, or understanding what he reads (no doubt one of our 70% poorly educated graduates of our failing education systems).  Read my comments again, more closely, perhaps you'll "get it" this time.
> 
> I said nothing about the O2's sounding poor with the BHSE or WES, quite the contrary.  As for the KGSS, read the link I provided - perhaps then you'll "get it."
> 
> ...


 

 You've got some of the most unfocused, difficult to follow posts in this entire thread and you're insulting my intelligence.  Cool.  I'm hoping now that a number of people have ripped your illogical conclusions and statements about things you have zero experience with into shreds you'll see that I'm not alone in saying your post was full of crap.  I'm glad you sold your O2 so we're less likely to see you pollute this thread anymore.  My biggest concern is that a newbie googles "O2 KGSS" and only reads the garbage you posted earlier, thus missing out on a killer system.  Enjoy your HD580s.  Bye.


----------



## XATS

I LOVE THE STAX


----------



## livewire

I just googled O3 KGSSHV.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




*YEAH BABY!!!*
*DISCLAMER: This newbie has heard neither device......yet.*


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> *The idea that you MUST buy a BHSE to get the O2 to not sound like garbage is wrong.*


 
  +1
  
  Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> You are obvioulsly entitled to your own preferences.*However you are being told by several people that your comparisons may not be apt.*
> 
> I got into my 007A and 717 set-up for $3K a few years ago.  Cost-wise this is comparable to the balanced Senn HD800 set-up I heard a few years back at Canjam.  Used 007's are dropping in price and will drop even more when the 009 hits the street.  Unfortunately the 717 is not coming down and is still about the $1200 I paid new from Japan.
> 
> Certainly your comprehension of this thread suggests you are in the 70% category yourself.


 
  +1
   
  BTW, I paid $2500 for my Mk1 + 717 less than 2 years ago.


----------



## Sundance

Is there a way to replace the earpads on the O2? Should I pull or turn the pads to remove them?


----------



## Deadneddz

There is a spring which is basically a small circular metal rod which holds the pads against the frame. It is attached to the housing by a small rubber grommet in the middle of the cup. You should pull the spring out of that rubber grommet(its not glued in or anything) and then you can just pull the earpads out of the housing with your hands since they are only tucked into the seam between the earcups. Try to be delicate so that you don't accidentally tear anything.
   
  Now putting a fresh set on is another story if this is your first time......


----------



## PinkFlag

What are some good cables you would recommend for the O2mk2 + KGSS synergy?


----------



## Sundance

Quote: 





deadneddz said:


> There is a spring which is basically a small circular metal rod which holds the pads against the frame. It is attached to the housing by a small rubber grommet in the middle of the cup. You should pull the spring out of that rubber grommet(its not glued in or anything) and then you can just pull the earpads out of the housing with your hands since they are only tucked into the seam between the earcups. Try to be delicate so that you don't accidentally tear anything.
> 
> Now putting a fresh set on is another story if this is your first time......


 

 Thank you. Unfortunately this the first time putting on a fresh set. I see the spring or "arm" but it is underneath the weave cloth. Do I pinch the cloth and pull it?


----------



## coolcat

with a decent set up the 507 may sound better than the O2(and to my ears they really sound better than the O2),but if you pay enough for the O2 ,the result will be different.
  And It's hard to say about these headphones sound better than that headphones,because even the HD800 can sound better than the 507 ,if they are in a better set up. I've heard the HD800 with a 300B tube amp,they even sound better for many songs compared to the O2+transformer+KrellKav300i,which I've also found great. But when I tried the Woo WESMaxxed with the O2 ,the O2 sound better than the HD800 again.
   
  Conclusion: The sure bet is to read much and try to copy what the more experience people said,cuz you don't risk to pay many times for the set up ,which make you satisfied with the sound.


----------



## Deadneddz

Quote: 





sundance said:


> Thank you. Unfortunately this the first time putting on a fresh set. I see the spring or "arm" but it is underneath the weave cloth. Do I pinch the cloth and pull it?


 


 Yes, you can pinch it from outside the cloth and pull it out of the grommet.


----------



## jjinh

This may help if you are replacing the pads of the SR-007, SR-007mk2
   

   
  I suspect this pic was originally uploaded by a helpful Head-Fier, e.g. Spritzer.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Oh... they sounded good out of the 007t II I had... they just didn't sound as good as my dynamic phones, since they had the "flabby bass" and rolled off, and clipped highs.


 
  IMO (and to my ears) the SR-007 doesn't sound flabby, dark or whatever term you use, out of an SS amp (even a very cheap one like my 212). Going from memory I did find the 007T a bit boring and dark in comparison...


----------



## sokolov91

So I thought I read somewhere the SR 09 were louder at the same pot position vs the O2.. (probably arnaud's impressions). so I guess we can assume they are more efficient- right?
   
  Does that mean SR - 09 + 323A is something worth considering? 5k$ is pretty damned steep for a transducer but if it really is unmatched might not be so bad a purchase. I would have to sell of all the hi-fi gear I have though lol...
   
   
   
  As far as X headphone "absolutely needing" Y amp - it's pretty ridiculous (especially when you consider how old these people making the claims must be). You either like a headphone or you do not. Holding on to something because you hope it one day might sound better is pretty stupid, and horrible advice.
   
  If someone wants to like an HD 800 better than O2 it is their choice, and amps are one of the last places I would look. Preference is numero uno.
   
  Man up, make your own decisions, and stop worrying your system is not good enough for your ears... you have nothing to gain by doing so... more realistically worry your ears are not good enough for your system... which they aren't  and they will only ever get worse.
   
  Kinda funny as your capacity to afford high end stuff increases, your biological capacity to experience diminishes.


----------



## Petyot

Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> Kinda funny as your capacity to afford high end stuff increases, your biological capacity to experience diminishes.


 
   





 I like that sentence


----------



## Alarickc

sokolov91 said:


> Kinda funny as your capacity to afford high end stuff increases, your biological capacity to experience diminishes.




I'm glad I got my HE-6 at 16, I'm trending better than most. I hope by the time I'm in my mid-20's I'll have saved up enough for an SR-009 setup. (I plan on saving some money by practicing some DIY amp building with my dad, He's a constructional electrical engineer, so I hope he remembers some of his circuit classes)


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





alarickc said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Keep a close eye on the volume knob, and try to limit your listening above 85dB as much as possible. If you go to clubs, concerts, any place with loud music, _wear hearing protection_. I assume at your age you've still got range into 18 or 19kHz. Hang on to it, don't throw it away at some stupid bar with house music blasting at 100dB+ on $2 speakers.


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> So I thought I read somewhere the SR 09 were louder at the same pot position vs the O2.. (probably arnaud's impressions). so I guess we can assume they are more efficient- right?
> 
> Does that mean SR - 09 + 323A is something worth considering? 5k$ is pretty damned steep for a transducer but if it really is unmatched might not be so bad a purchase. I would have to sell of all the hi-fi gear I have though lol...
> 
> ...


 

 I don't think anyone can answer your questions yet. From certain comments, it seems the O2s will sound excellent after a certain level and up. 717 amp or higher are the safe choices.  I won't personally know until I get an amp which will probably be in the next few weeks.
   
  Anyways...
   
  Buy the best, forget the rest. Buy a Stax, it's like sex.
   
  Good night.


----------



## MuppetFace

I will most likely be purchasing the SR-009 this coming summer, whereupon I may end up selling most of my other equipment, save for my absolute favorites.
   
  My heart is just not into collecting like it once was.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> Anyways...
> 
> Buy the best, forget the rest. Buy a Stax, it's like sex.
> 
> Good night.


 


 Well said, truer words were never spoken....


----------



## ujamerstand

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> Buy the best, forget the rest. Buy a Stax, it's like sex.
> 
> Good night.


 
   
  sig worthy material right here.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I will most likely be purchasing the SR-009 this coming summer, whereupon I may end up selling most of my other equipment, save for my absolute favorites.
> 
> My heart is just not into collecting like it once was.


 

 What amp are you using these days, MF? I'm not in a huge rush to upgrade my setup, but I will likely go for a KGSS-HV before I try the 009.


----------



## n3rdling

To the people who bought a SR-507 on launch:
  Is there any retailer in the US or Japan that you'd recommend?  Trying to find out what places have the lowest prices, best service, and prompt shipping for the SR-009 launch.  I know audiocubes is kinda flaky.


----------



## K3cT

PriceJapan seems to have it cheapest. We seriously need more impressions of the SR-507, I don't want to plunge cash on it only to end up with something that's as flawed as the 404LE.


----------



## svyr

n3rdling said:


> To the people who bought a SR-507 on launch:
> Is there any retailer in the US or Japan that you'd recommend?  Trying to find out what places have the lowest prices, best service, and prompt shipping for the SR-009 launch.  I know audiocubes is kinda flaky.



+1 on PJ. Got my SR-507 from there.

Technically, you can try and get them directly from one of the sellers PJ buy from http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl==en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fkakaku.com%2Fitem%2FK0000137278%2F but um, I don't know how that would go (you need to figure out which one of the stores does international shipping and is currently not affected by natural disasters) and um that'll save you a whole $50 commission that PJ takes.

>We seriously need more impressions of the SR-507,

You might want to ask specific questions in the thread instead. There are plenty of people who bought SR-507 as far as I can tell...


----------



## complin

http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/News-SR009_E_web.pdf
   
 *[size=24pt]News Release [/size]**[size=20pt] March, 2011[/size]**[size=12pt][/size]*

 *[size=12pt] [/size]*

*[size=36pt]STAX SR-009[/size]*
  [size=17pt] [/size]
  [size=17pt]T[/size][size=17pt]op[/size][size=17pt]-[/size][size=17pt]o[/size][size=17pt]f[/size][size=17pt]-[/size][size=17pt]the-line electrostatic earspeaker[/size]
 *[size=12pt] [/size]*

 *[size=16pt]MUSICAL MILLENNIUM[/size]*[size=16pt][/size]

If a technology is not suitable for music, you should not adopt it even if it is a high-tech. Every technology should contribute to music reproduction. The SR-009 is the product of the repeated research trip to technology and material search without deviating from our stance to return to live sound and music always with refined sensitivity.

 [size=14pt] [/size]

 *[size=16pt]PRIDE AND JOY[/size]*[size=16pt][/size]
It will exactly be as a result of "work" each predecessor piled up, if a race, a company, and an individual have "pride". And it clearly depends on the way of life we live now to inherit it and to bear "enhancement" and "evolution." Simply this is proven by the fact that the state -of-the-art technologies in the world exist intensively in present-day Japan. Making valuable new things full of creativity by skillfully taking advantage of these technologies has given birth to a "millennium" earspeaker (electrostatic headphone).

  

 *[size=16pt]TECHNOLOGY AND MATERIAL[/size]*
 *[size=16pt] [/size]*
 *DIAPHRAGM: MORE THINLY !*

 The newly developed sound element has been adopted in the SR-009. New high polymer ultra- thin film material called the super engineering plastics - the further reinforced and much thinner material than the conventional engineering plastics - is employed for the diaphragm of the sound  element. Materials superior especially in tone quality have been selected to attain the extremely excellent frequency characteristic from low to super-high as well as the vast dynamic range.

  

 *ELECTRODES:*

 New electrodes named MLER (Multi Layer ElectRodes) have also been developed to realize the plane drive of the whole film diaphragm surface. While infinite thinness and flatness are

 required for the fixed electrodes, they simultaneously need to have other characteristics such as low resonance, high transmissivity of sound wave, and so on. The entirely new electrodes have been completed through the unification of metal plates processed with ultra-precision photograph etching using the high technology of  heat diffusion combination on the  atomic level.

  

 *ENCLOSURE:*

 Aluminum is a metal good for sound and suitable material for audio equipment. It is abundantly used, e.g. at the frame supporting the appearance and sound element, to  realize high-quality sound, rigidity and lightweight. Almost every part of the SR-009 is manufactured through precise machine processing.

  

 *[size=12pt]CABLE:[/size]*[size=12pt][/size]

The  high-purity  copper developed  from  the  necessity  of  wiring large-scale integration circuits is also known as  high-quality audio cables.  High-purity copper wire   of 99.9999%  (6Nines)  purity adopted for the cable is further silver-coated and finished with the most suitable structure to drive the earspeaker[size=12pt][/size]
 *[size=12pt] [/size]*
*[size=12pt]E[/size]**[size=12pt]A[/size]**[size=12pt]RPAD:[/size]*[size=12pt][/size]
The earpad of a new design is carefully made by a craftsman's hand and features both the real leather with good humidity environment and the cushion material with moderate elasticity. The new earpad enables hours of comfortable listening to music.
 

*[size=12pt]A[/size]**[size=12pt]RC (head band):[/size]*[size=12pt][/size]
The arc is equipped with a position adjustment mechanism of 10-step slider and corresponds to the wide range of cranial form with individual difference.
*[size=16pt] [/size]*
*[size=16pt]S[/size]**[size=16pt]PECIFICATIONS:[/size]*[size=16pt][/size]
  [size=10pt]■ [/size]Type: push-pull electrostatic circular sound element, open-air type enclosure

■ Frequency response: 5 - 42,000Hz
■ Electrostatic capacitance: 110pF (including cable)

■ Impedance: 145kΩ (including cable, at 10kHz)

■ Sound pressure sensitivity: 101dB / input 100Vr.m.s. / 1kHz

■ Maximum sound pressure level: 118dB / 400Hz

■ Bias voltage: 580V DC

 ■ Right/left channel indication: 'L' and 'R' indicated on the arc assembly (inside head spring), solid line (left) and dotted line (right) on the cable

■  Earpad: real leather (skin-touching and surrounding  portion), high-quality artificial leather (mounting portion)
■ Cable: silver-coated 6N (99.9999%) OFC parallel 6-strand, low-capacity special wide cable, 2.5m full length

■ Weight: 596g (including cable), 454g (without cable)
■ Specifications and appearance are subject to change for improvement[size=16pt][/size]
  [size=9pt] [/size]


*[size=16pt]RECOMMENDED DRIVER UNIT:[/size]*[size=16pt][/size]
*VACUUM TUBE output version: Input terminal ×3 (RCA -2*、*XLR-1)*

■ SRM-007t series: Hybrid Class-A, DC coupling, Output tubes (6FQ7/6CG7) :x 4

 

*NON**-**N**F**B **outpu**t version: Input terminal ×1 (RCA or XLR)*
■ SRM-727 series: High power Class-A, Direct Input mode


  [size=12pt][/size]
  [size=14pt] [/size][size=10pt]e[/size][size=12pt] [/size]


  [size=12pt]＊[/size][size=16pt]Si[/size][size=16pt]m[/size][size=16pt]u[/size][size=16pt]l[/size][size=16pt]t[/size][size=16pt]a[/size][size=16pt]n[/size][size=16pt]eous release[/size][size=12pt]＊[/size][size=12pt][/size]
*[size=12pt]N[/size]**[size=12pt]E[/size]**[size=12pt]W EXTENSION CABLE [/size]*

Silver-coated 6N (99.9999%) OFC parallel 6-strand, low-capacity special wide cable,.

・SRE-925S   2.5ｍ
・SRE-950S      5ｍ
  [size=10pt]ST[/size][size=10pt]AX LTD [/size][size=6pt]〒[/size][size=6pt]354-0046  7-1 Chikumazawa-higashi, Miyoshi-machi, Saitama Pref. Japan[/size][size=6pt][/size]

  [size=6pt]T[/size][size=6pt]EL[/size][size=6pt]:[/size][size=6pt]049-258-2660 FAX:049-258-2659, URL:www.stax.co.jp[/size][size=6pt][/size]

  [size=5pt]P[/size][size=5pt]r[/size][size=5pt]i[/size][size=5pt]nted  in  Japan   11-03  1K  KS[/size][size=4pt]([/size][size=4pt]C[/size][size=4pt])[/size][size=4pt] [/size][size=5pt]S[/size][size=5pt]T[/size][size=5pt]A[/size][size=5pt]X[/size][size=5pt][/size]


----------



## complin

Pre-Order SR-009 on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-STAX-Open-Air-Type-Earspeaker-SR-009-/200590728444?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item2eb4239cfc


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> I don't think anyone can answer your questions yet. From certain comments, it seems the O2s will sound excellent after a certain level and up. 717 amp or higher are the safe choices.  I won't personally know until I get an amp which will probably be in the next few weeks.
> 
> Anyways...
> 
> ...


 


 An old girlfriend on hearing my first electrostatic system, the old Koss ESP6, said with "this you don't need anyone, you don't sex."  Fortuantely for me she couldn't find a set of her own.
   
  Actually, these phones still sound pretty good especially with vinyl.


----------



## svyr

complin said:


> Pre-Order SR-009 on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-STAX-Open-Air-Type-Earspeaker-SR-009-/200590728444?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item2eb4239cfc




any, um, affiliation?



> We can help you to save your custom duty as possible as we can, please feel free to contact us.



lol. Maybe they can declare it as defective and fubar. Not like customs have a working driver unit at hand to test.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> What amp are you using these days, MF? I'm not in a huge rush to upgrade my setup, but I will likely go for a KGSS-HV before I try the 009.


 

 I'm using a Headamp KGSS for stats, and for everything else I find myself using the Beta 22 more times than not.
   
  The KGSS-HV is definitely alluring.


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Keep a close eye on the volume knob, and try to limit your listening above 85dB as much as possible. If you go to clubs, concerts, any place with loud music, _wear hearing protection_. I assume at your age you've still got range into 18 or 19kHz. Hang on to it, don't throw it away at some stupid bar with house music blasting at 100dB+ on $2 speakers.


 
  The worst part is I do bring earplugs everywhere lol, much to my girlfriends great chagrin... but at the end of the night I am not the one with ringing ears and  a headache .
   
  I am indeed trying to hold on to it and feed them with a pair of SR 09 as soon as possible 
  
  One of the reasons I am such a stickler for flat (ish) bass (or basshead so long as it is quality) is because I generally listen around 65-70dB and at those levels bright headphones are, well, pretty damned bright. The LCD-2 can pull this off and so can a few other orthos but few other headphones can so while I would love to jump on stax I am really going to have wait for other people to take the plunge first haha. I am baiting you guys


----------



## complin

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  No I have no connection with the seller. but just interesting they are already on offer at what seems to be a premium  I think the list price quoted by Stax is 388500 yen which translates to £2977 and the seller is asking £3125.  Perhaps they are taking into account that the exchange rate might fluctuate.  Similarly at current rates this is $4788 and Woo Audio are listing at $5250.


----------



## Pabro

That's so cool...But in the meanwhile it might require better amp and better sound source...but we have quite a limited choice of amp in electrostat aftermarket. 
   
  Quote: 





complin said:


> http://www.stax.co.jp/Pdf/Export/News-SR009_E_web.pdf


----------



## arnaud

pabro said:


> That's so cool...But in the meanwhile it might require better amp and better sound source...but we have quite a limited choice of amp in electrostat aftermarket.




Better source: I'd say it would need to be the same or higher than what is used to feed an o2 rig. Clearly, the sr-009 will not hide flaws of a nasty source. On the postive side though, in my listening impressions against o2mk2 using 727a, one track that had some shrillness through the o2 sound more natural on the sr-009 which may be due because the sr009 is apparently much easier to drive than o2.

Better amp: for me, after my listening sessions, I am convinced I could satisfy myself with the 727a (not even modded) because sr009 appears easy to drive. For instance, no sign of loose bass, very wide and deep soundstage, extended highs. Of course, it might be even better with a bhse, but for me I will upgrade the source before the amp if I get an sr009.


----------



## svyr

complin said:


> No I have no connection with the seller. but just interesting they are already on offer at what seems to be a premium  I think the list price quoted by Stax is 388500 yen which translates to £2977 and the seller is asking £3125.  Perhaps they are taking into account that the exchange rate might fluctuate.  Similarly at current rates this is $4788 and Woo Audio are listing at $5250.




more likely than anything, they probably just want cash now, so they don't have to pay so much to order stock and if stax runs out quickly by the time they'd generally get money.
Local re-sellers always put a higher mark-up, even is the stax RRP is supposed to include a mark-up already.


----------



## Asr

Speaking of the SR-507, I just ordered one yesterday and will probably write something about it when I get it, which should be by the end of next week. Amped by the BHSE as that's what I have right now. I also ordered a KGSS earlier this week but that won't be here in time for me to write about it on Head-Fi.
   
  Highly intrigued by the SR-009 but don't see myself actually getting it anytime soon - if ever, considering I've been trying to downsize my setup lately and minimize its cost.
  
  Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> Kinda funny as your capacity to afford high end stuff increases, your biological capacity to experience diminishes.


 

 This is actually one of my motivators for buying the stuff that I've bought in my time on Head-Fi so far. My hearing will only get worse later in life so I might as well enjoy it now while I'm still in my 20s.


----------



## Alarickc

davebsc said:


> Keep a close eye on the volume knob, and try to limit your listening above 85dB as much as possible. If you go to clubs, concerts, any place with loud music, _wear hearing protection_. I assume at your age you've still got range into 18 or 19kHz. Hang on to it, don't throw it away at some stupid bar with house music blasting at 100dB+ on $2 speakers.




Don't worry, I wont. I have never been to a rock concert, I don't plan on ever going clubing, I don't listen to anything really other than classical and jazz, and I never listen higher than 80-85db. I plan on not lossing my high frequency hearing if I can help it.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> Local re-sellers always put a higher mark-up, even is the stax RRP is supposed to include a mark-up already.


 
   
  The difference is that the local country importer/distributer also has to take a cut in order to make a living, and that can be a very significant percentage. If you bypass that and import straight from Japan, then you save some money, but lose some service (e.g. listening before you buy, and getting help if things go wrong after you buy).
  
  Quote: 





asr said:


> This is actually one of my motivators for buying the stuff that I've bought in my time on Head-Fi so far. My hearing will only get worse later in life so I might as well enjoy it now while I'm still in my 20s.


   
  The good news is that, as long as you take reasonable care of your ears, they don't deteriorate with age as much as some suggest. I would say that my listening enjoyment has been continuously increasing with the years, due to my hifi getting better. The rumour that people turn into deaf old gits by the time they reach 25 is greatly exaggerated. My HF hearing now tails off after 13khz, but I still get better get a better sound than I did 30 years ago.
   
  And Solokov, I can hear differences between cables and fuses and you can't. Which conclusively proves that I have better hearing than you! So THERE!


----------



## svyr

> If you bypass that and import straight from Japan, then you save some money, but lose some service (e.g. listening before you buy, and getting help if things go wrong after you buy)

for the Aus seller's 50% mark up, I can set that money aside and buy another pair if mine breaks lol. (let alone pay the $60 shipping back to JP). 
Local showrooms are local, I doubt I'd go to another state just to listen to a pair of HP, that's if they have a demo pair. I'd rather go to a meet and listen to whatever interests me there. 


>I can hear differences between cables and fuses and you can't. 

ummm lol....


----------



## TheAttorney

When comparing costs of directly importing from another country, don't forget import duties and local taxes. Depending on the local tax rules, these can add say 30% to the cost.


----------



## svyr

theattorney said:


> When comparing costs of directly importing from another country, don't forget import duties and local taxes. Depending on the local tax rules, these can add say 30% to the cost.




there aren't any for SR-507. Anything that costs under 1k for import into Australia is not taxed. 
Pretty sure for UK it's fairly horrible and for other EU places. (taxed used hp of 200 value for $30  ) 
How bad is US?


----------



## Pabro

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> To the people who bought a SR-507 on launch:
> Is there any retailer in the US or Japan that you'd recommend?  Trying to find out what places have the lowest prices, best service, and prompt shipping for the SR-009 launch.  I know audiocubes is kinda flaky.


 

 Yama's Inc. is literally 20 miles away from me. But they don't reply emails and answer phone calls very actively, and they always told me that the stuffs I wanted to audit was not in stock... Hmm, quite frustrating sometimes...


----------



## jontti

I posted this on the dedicated source components forum, but I thought I'd post here aswell as it has to do with stax earspeakers.
   
  Hi! I've got the opportunity to buy a ESound CD-E5 Signature Edition for 550€ and I wonder if this would be a upgrade from using a PS3 as a transport to a DacMagic? The thing which annoys me the most with my current setup is that the PS3 is a bit noisy and you can hear it in the quiet parts of the music. The ESound looks like a really nice and solid player and I've read some very nice things about it.
   
  The rest of my system consists of a Stax 303 with a Stax srm-313 and a AKG K701 with a Heed canamp. The next upgrade on the headphone side will probably be a Stax O2 and then a KGSS(/HV) so will this player do that system any justice or is it better to just save my money and buy a better player later when I've saved some more money?


----------



## paaj

I assume that it is fan-noise? A proper CD player is quiet, so yes it will be an upgrade. It seems a bit like overkill if just used as a transport for the dacmagic, but you are probably planning on selling the dacmagic and use this one standalone? Try to get an audition to experience the differences in sound if possible.


----------



## jontti

Quote: 





paaj said:


> I assume that it is fan-noise? A proper CD player is quiet, so yes it will be an upgrade. It seems a bit like overkill if just used as a transport for the dacmagic, but you are probably planning on selling the dacmagic and use this one standalone? Try to get an audition to experience the differences in sound if possible.


 


  
   Yes fan-noise, but I could probably fix that cheaper and just use some old crappy dvd-player which isn't used. But then again the dvd-player has some issues so that's why I use the PS3 as transport instead. So I'd also want some better SQ and not just get rid of the fan-noise. The guy who's selling this apparently also have a dacmagic and he had compared them and was of the opinion that although the dacmagic was quite good the esound was a bit better and especially with the bass. And I'm planning on using the cd-player standalone. Is 550€ a reasonable price for this player you think?


----------



## Asr

I got my SR-507 today.
   
  I'd use a superlative like "wow it's amazing!" but that'd be overkill, because I'm not really _that _bowled over by it. But it's definitely one of the better headphones that I've heard recently and worthy of sitting alongside the OII MKI as a different flavor. I previously had the SR-404LE and SR-X MKIII both of which I liked a lot (the SR-X MKIII moreso) but I think I might end up liking the SR-507 more.
   
  Considering its price and the relative ortho/dynamic competition in that range, I also think I'd place the SR-507 as among the best in that line-up - the line-up being the LCD-2, HE-6, HD800, and T1. In a lot of ways the SR-507 makes me think of the HD800 and HE-6 (as all three are relatively treble-tilted) but out of the three the SR-507 is definitely the one that I've liked the most initially. (Can't say I exactly had a positive impression of the HD800 or HE-6 when I first heard them.)
   
  It's also quite a bit more sensitive than the OII MKI which is kinda nice. And I might end up rolling my Genalex Gold Lion KT77s into my BHSE later to find out how it responds - something tells me that might be an interesting combo.


----------



## jaycalgary

Don't you think the 507's will change with some burn in time?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Don't you think the 507's will change with some burn in time?


 

 I'll vote no.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'm starting to think someday I'll be selling the Lambda Nova Signature to get an SR-507...


----------



## K3cT

asr said:


> I got my SR-507 today.
> 
> I'd use a superlative like "wow it's amazing!" but that'd be overkill, because I'm not really _that _bowled over by it. But it's definitely one of the better headphones that I've heard recently and worthy of sitting alongside the OII MKI as a different flavor. I previously had the SR-404LE and SR-X MKIII both of which I liked a lot (the SR-X MKIII moreso) but I think I might end up liking the SR-507 more.
> 
> ...




Interesting, Asr! Does it have any actual bass to speak of as that's probably my main gripe about Lambdas? And how about the upper mid compared to the 404LE if you can recall? I used to have this in my possession and the upper mid glare/peak could get really annoying sometimes.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I'm starting to think someday I'll be selling the Lambda Nova Signature to get an SR-507...


 


  As I'm sure you're aware, stax is an extremely consistent company.

 I think there's not much to lose by investing in the newer diaphragm support alone.


----------



## dharma

asr said:


> I got my SR-507 today.
> 
> ... In a lot of ways the SR-507 makes me think of the HD800 and HE-6 (as all three are relatively treble-tilted).




Thanks for input

Could You compare SR-507 bass area (deepness, amount-impact, quality-truthfulness) with HD800, please. If it's somehow "weaker" in this area, could this to lead SR-507 to some music genre specific HP group?
Thanks...


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





dharma said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 If you don´t mind, I can try to answer this too as a SR-507 owner. The SR-507, in my experience (used to have HD 800 and LCD-2), is indeed similar to the HD 800. Haven´t heard the HE-6, so I can´t comment on that. The HD 800 has a fast, etherial sound that has more than a few things in common with Stax. The SR-507 is just more complete: totally silent background, better instrument separation, everything appears out of darkness and disappears instantly as well. 
   
  The HD 800 soundstage is larger, but it´s also more artificial. The HD 800 pushes it´s presentation style onto everything. However, the deal breaker with the HD 800 for me was the treble spike and sibilance. I am very sensitive to overdone treble and find the SR-507 just perfect. It´s not recessed (HD 650 or especially LCD-2), but not boosted to me either. Not sure how it compares to higher end Stax, but compared to dynamic headphone gear like HD 800, DT 880, HD 600, T1 etc, the SR-507 is definately not treble happy.
   
  But to answer your actual question... Personally I feel HD 800 has more impact (not dramatically more though), but SR-507 bass texture is more defined. I can more easily hear the difference between different types of bass with the SR-507. The HD 800 bass goes a bit deeper in my experience. To sum it up, HD 800 wins in quantity, but SR-507 wins in quality. Personally I find midrange and highs more important than bass performance though, and in those sectors I don´t feel the HD 800 is on the same level to be honest. To me the SR-507 is what the HD 800 wants to be, but fails to achieve. Oh and when it comes to genre bandwith, I find the SR-507 very genre agnostic. Anything goes - much less pickier than the HD 800.
   
  It´s all subjective though - YMMV. I haven´t missed my HD 800 at all after I got my Stax gear though.


----------



## dharma

vrln said:


> If you don´t mind, I can try to answer this too as a SR-507 owner. ...



KIITOS VASTAUKSESTA [in Finnish]
I'm considering to get at some good day STAX too, need to decide between new 507 or used O2 (Mk1?) or used 4070 + amplifier.

Did you auditioned 507 (or compared with other STAX models) in local store, before You purchased 507 (is there any store in Your area, where maybe all? newer STAX models could be auditioned)?

Thank You for responding
[Virosta]


----------



## treal512

Hello! I was trying to decide between the HE-5LE and Stax when a 3030 system popped up locally here in Austin. Now I am part of the Stax club 
   
  Looking to do a few minor improvements to my setup, but nothing major (for now). These sound great!


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





dharma said:


> KIITOS VASTAUKSESTA [in Finnish]
> I'm considering to get at some good day STAX too, need to decide between new 507 or used O2 (Mk1?) or used 4070 + amplifier.
> 
> Did you auditioned 507 (or compared with other STAX models) in local store, before You purchased 507 (is there any store in Your area, where maybe all? newer STAX models could be auditioned)?
> ...


 

 Eipä kestä  The O2 is very demanding on amplification (as opposed to Lambda models which run fine on the official amps), many here feel the official Stax amps aren´t really good enough for it. Personally I have no idea though, I´ve never heard an O2. But the Mk1 is very rare to find, the currently produced Mk2 is apparently worse. I auditioned a used Stax 404 Signature (a Lambda that is generally not considered to be very good compared to the SR-507 for example) with the 006tII at a local hifi store, but the asking price for it was far too much. But suprisingly (I did not expect to be impressed by the Stax)I already prefered the 404 Signature to the HD 800 I had at the time, so going for the SR-507 was a pretty safe bet after that. I bought my gear from abroad, the local prices are just unreasonably high. Sold all my old dynamic tech headphone gear and been happy ever since 
   
  Cheers to Estonia, it´s a great country!


----------



## dharma

vrln said:


> Eipä kestä  ... ... ... I auditioned a used Stax 404 Signature (a Lambda that is generally not considered to be very good compared to the SR-507 for example) with the 006tII at a local hifi store, but the asking price for it was far too much. But suprisingly (I did not expect to be impressed by the Stax)I already prefered the 404 Signature to the HD 800 I had at the time, so going for the SR-507 was a pretty safe bet after that. I bought my gear from abroad, the local prices are just unreasonably high. Sold all my old dynamic tech headphone gear and been happy ever since ... ...




Great, at least Finland/Sweden have some stores with those... Anyway I don't "burn the bridges", before there is nowhere to go or come back 
Thank's!


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





vrln said:


> If you don´t mind, I can try to answer this too as a SR-507 owner. The SR-507, in my experience (used to have HD 800 and LCD-2), is indeed similar to the HD 800. Haven´t heard the HE-6, so I can´t comment on that. The HD 800 has a fast, etherial sound that has more than a few things in common with Stax. The SR-507 is just more complete: totally silent background, better instrument separation, everything appears out of darkness and disappears instantly as well.
> 
> The HD 800 soundstage is larger, but it´s also more artificial. The HD 800 pushes it´s presentation style onto everything. However, the deal breaker with the HD 800 for me was the treble spike and sibilance. I am very sensitive to overdone treble and find the SR-507 just perfect. It´s not recessed (HD 650 or especially LCD-2), but not boosted to me either. Not sure how it compares to higher end Stax, but compared to dynamic headphone gear like HD 800, DT 880, HD 600, T1 etc, the SR-507 is definately not treble happy.
> 
> ...


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





vrln said:


> ... The SR-507, in my experience (used to have HD 800 and LCD-2), is indeed similar to the HD 800... The HD 800 has a fast, etherial sound that has more than a few things in common with Stax. The SR-507 is just more complete: totally silent background, better instrument separation, everything appears out of darkness and disappears instantly as well.
> 
> ... I am very sensitive to overdone treble and find the SR-507 just perfect. It´s not recessed (HD 650 or especially LCD-2), but not boosted to me either. Not sure how it compares to higher end Stax, but compared to dynamic headphone gear like HD 800, DT 880, HD 600, T1 etc, the SR-507 is definately not treble happy.
> 
> But to answer your actual question... Personally I feel HD 800 has more impact (not dramatically more though), but SR-507 bass texture is more defined. I can more easily hear the difference between different types of bass with the SR-507...  Oh and when it comes to genre bandwith, I find the SR-507 very genre agnostic. Anything goes - much less pickier than the HD 800.


   
  Agree... with this description of the 507's - great bass, mids and trebles, great soundstage and imaging... and... of course great clarity, detail and resolution - all very balanced.  And... yes... the texture and differentiation of the various types of instruments is very clear.  They're especially great with SACD's like Norah Jones' Come Away With Me - almost magical.  They have that "ambience," or whatever... as other's have described as like Magnepan's - which have a sort of "magical" ambience. 
   
  And... the bass has quite a bit of impact - very much like my AD2000's (which are superb), which sound very similar in all respects.  Most will be very pleased with the bass.  Though, the AD2000's are just a bit warmer, and have just a bit more impact - but, otherwise sound very similar. 
   
  I'm finding the SRM-323S is a somewhat better amp to drive the 507's, than the 007t II was.  Now, I regret selling my 007 MKII's quite so soon - I would have liked to hear how the 323S would have driven them - quite well I'm sure.   But... just comparing the two with the 007t II amp... the 507's seem a bit more punchy and dynamic than the 007 MKII's- likely the fact that the 007t II just wasn't a good match with the 007 MKII's - which has to make you wonder why Stax would offer it with the 007 MKII's.
   
  Even as great as this pairing is... we're still talking "nuanced" differences between it and my great dynamic phones with well matched setups.


----------



## Asr

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Don't you think the 507's will change with some burn in time?


 
   
  I don't think "burn-in" applies to electrostatic headphones, so no.
   
  Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Interesting, Asr! Does it have any actual bass to speak of as that's probably my main gripe about Lambdas? And how about the upper mid compared to the 404LE if you can recall? I used to have this in my possession and the upper mid glare/peak could get really annoying sometimes.


 
   
  Well it has some bass but not as much as I'd like for listening to bassy electronica, but that doesn't really matter to me - so far it's been working well for ambient electronica and bluegrass, which is just as good. I have almost no memory of the SR-404LE's sound, sorry.
   
  Quote: 





dharma said:


> Thanks for input
> 
> Could You compare SR-507 bass area (deepness, amount-impact, quality-truthfulness) with HD800, please. If it's somehow "weaker" in this area, could this to lead SR-507 to some music genre specific HP group?
> Thanks...


 

 My preliminary opinion is mostly the same as vrln's. More details will be included in an upcoming multi-way review of several headphones.


----------



## MrGreen

How far do your lamba cups rotate with a force applied perpendicular to the longest side (so 180 degrees is a "mirror" not a "flip")? My cups rotate different amounts in one direction, but the same in another. Any idea what causes this?
   
  Also, hilariously, I found out that you can manually adjust the lambas - I thought they were auto adjusting....


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





asr said:


> I don't think "burn-in" applies to electrostatic headphones, so no.


 
   
  I idn't know why there couldn't be some stretch and give in the diaphragm and certainly of the earpads with use which could affect the sound. However I don't think the last 2 phones I bought new, an SR003 and an 007A changed much in sound after the first hours of use.  Straight out the box, the sound was somewhat wonkey for each.  My personal belief is that as the pads conform better to ones face they give slight  changes in distance between the eardrum and the diaphragm and better seal which affects the sound.  The effect of use on the 007A was hard to determine since I went through a long period of turning the pads andf bending the arc assembly yo get a good fit and good sound.


----------



## Ikarios

Hi folks. This is my first time checking into the Stax thread... I never thought I had a reason to. I picked up an SRS2050 (SR202/SRM252) setup earlier this week and...
   
  Wow.
   
  That's about all. Coming from mid-fi dynamic headphones, I can hardly find a flaw with the SR202s. I find that they sound closest to the K501s, although the K501s have tubby midbass (who would've thought someone would describe K501 bass as "tubby", ever 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





), and with much more mud in the treble frequencies.
   
  The SRS2050 is almost perfect.... but upgraditis is a tough bug to fight. The overall frequency balance is, in my opinion, just perfect. They're not bass-light, don't have recessed mids, and don't have piercing/strident treble. I would like a little harder-hitting sub-bass, but that's not really an issue. If anything, the biggest issue (using that term relatively) is in the treble - it's not as CLEAR as I want it to be. It's very fast and clear, but sometimes I think cymbals don't decay quite fast enough, and there's just a little bit too much shimmer (mostly on ride cymbals). Treble has always been a little bit difficult for me to describe, and I'm extremely picky in this area, but I hope you guys know what I'm talking about.
   
  Since the SR202 seems to have the right frequency balance, I'm a little wary of making such a drastic change as getting a different Lambda (the older ones don't seem like they're what I'm looking for, and it's a little hard to find the SR303/404 by itself), so I think the best option would be to upgrade the SRM252 amplifier. Ideally I'd like an eXStatA, but those are hard to come by, so I've been looking into the mid-range Stax amplifiers. I don't have all the options fully fleshed out yet - I've been looking at the SRM-1mk2, SRM313/323, SRM-3, etc.) Would upgrading the amplifier have a noticeable impact, or would I be better off going up the chain entirely?
  Thanks in advance. I'm slowly searching the thread and finding relevant pieces of information, but 1021 pages is a lot of info to go through...


----------



## livewire

Glad to see you've joined the club.
  I have the SRS2050 and have been happy with it for all the reasons you mentioned.
  Upgraditis has struck, so I built a KGSSHV.
  Now I need better Stax than the SR-202 to exploit the full grunt of this beast.
  This is where the going gets tough.
  Figure $1K for the SR-507, about double that for an O2.
  Then there is the new SR-009. $5K Oy Vey!!!
  It wasnt too long ago we were putzing around with MSSH builds. What hath God wrought?


----------



## padam

Aflac, I guess a PSU upgrade for the SRM-252 would be worthwile and would make it close to the SRM-313 (pretty similar designs). Also you might need a better source, makes at least as much difference as the amp, if not more.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Aflac* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The overall frequency balance is, in my opinion, just perfect.


 



 That's probably because, technically speaking, they are very close to perfect in this regard - IF we're talking about free field response curves.
   
   
  Quote: 





> Since the SR202 seems to have the right frequency balance, I'm a little wary of making such a drastic change as getting a different Lambda (the older ones don't seem like they're what I'm looking for, and it's a little hard to find the SR303/404 by itself), so I think the best option would be to upgrade the SRM252 amplifier.


 
   
  FWIW, all of the lambdas have extremely close response curves on paper.


----------



## svyr

padam said:


> Aflac, *I guess a PSU upgrade for the SRM-252 would be worthwile and would make it close to the SRM-313 (pretty similar designs)*. Also you might need a better source, makes at least as much difference as the amp, if not more.




don't think so. Pretty sure spritzer said 252 is similar to SRM-300 (reg psu and isn't DC coupled?). and 313 is different and more similar to SRM-1/mk2. Might want to check with him though.


----------



## padam

I think, he wrote that the SRM-300 is somewhat similar to the SRM-001 in terms of design while the SRM-252 is more similar to the others.


----------



## svyr

padam said:


> I think, he wrote that the SRM-300 is somewhat similar to the SRM-001 in terms of design while the SRM-252 is more similar to the others.




=( can't remember  , possibly. Spritzer? we know you're reading this


----------



## spritzer

The 252 and 313 are similar but any PSU upgrades will do very little since you are always limited by the tiny transformer inside the amp.  Simply switching to a larger PSU is also likely to kill the amp as it won't draw enough so the voltage will rise, making all the parts operate outside their spec.


----------



## Michgelsen

The SR-202 is a lovely pair of headphones. If you feel like upgrading, you could indeed go for a mid-level Stax amp. I used mine with a SRM-T1 for a while; a good combination. Other Stax tube amps will sound comparable I guess. Upgrading to another Lambda model would not be very satisfactory I think, so either go for the O2 or SR-009, or be happy with the SR-202 for a while. How about upgrading your source? Can be very worthwile.
   
   
  Quote: 





ikarios said:


> Hi folks. This is my first time checking into the Stax thread... I never thought I had a reason to. I picked up an SRS2050 (SR202/SRM252) setup earlier this week and...
> 
> Wow.
> 
> ...


----------



## dukja

Bear with my ignorance, but SR-202 is just an entry Lambda, right?  Wouldn't upgrade to SR-507 make more sense than jump all the way up to O2 or even SR-009.  If budget was not an issue than SR-202 shouldn't be the initial buy.  Don't  you think so?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> The SR-202 is a lovely pair of headphones. If you feel like upgrading, you could indeed go for a mid-level Stax amp. I used mine with a SRM-T1 for a while; a good combination. Other Stax tube amps will sound comparable I guess. *Upgrading to another Lambda model would not be very satisfactory I think*, so either go for the O2 or SR-009, or be happy with the SR-202 for a while. How about upgrading your source? Can be very worthwile.


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Bear with my ignorance, but SR-202 is just an entry Lambda, right?  Wouldn't upgrade to SR-507 make more sense than jump all the way up to O2 or even SR-009.  If budget was not an issue than SR-202 shouldn't be the initial buy.  Don't  you think so?


 

 Well yes, if budget wasn't an issue, you may as well buy the Orpheus.
   
  But really, I think he was referring to my situation, in that upgrading to another Lambda wouldn't see huge gains like going to an Omega would. Basically it sounds like he's saying the SR202 is similar enough to the SR507 that upgrading something like the amp would be a better idea.


----------



## FrankCooter

I've never heard an SR202, but I own a 303 and a 507. There's a huge difference between the 303 and the 507. The 507 is a lot closer to the O2  than the 303. Definitely worth the upgrade.


----------



## mikenyc

Aflac,
   
  I also bought the 2050 and was immediately sold on the stax. I upgraded to a T1S and was very pleased with the upgrade.  Very nice improvement.  The problem is that you will probably want to keep upgrading.  I am trying to figure out the next step right now between a sensible upgrade to the 507 or go straight to the top of the line and invest in an amp to match.  This is the problem with Stax (but a good problem...  I guess).
   
  Mike


----------



## MrGreen

I preferred the lambda sound out of mid-level amplifiers, and I wouldn't think about buying an O2 if I wasn't going to throw down cash for a BHSE. Omega on the other hand...
   

 But my first foray into stax literally ended upgraditis for me


----------



## Nakattack

Green, send me your Stax so I can experience teh awesome that everyone is gushing about


----------



## dukja

As I said, I am a Stax newbie and have been thinking about getting a Stax.  His comment sounds like SR202 is quite representable to all Lambda line and if one is not happy with it, then he should jump for omega line.   If that is the case, then I'll go for SR202 for a start of my Stax adventure.
   
  However, other posts suggest that 507 may give you the sound closer to O2 (instead of being close to 202) and does not have problem of being picky on amp.   To be honest, I am still confused and don't know which Lambda to pick.  507 sounds like a fool-proof (but costy) choice.  I am still learning about Stax.  Thanks for many inputs here.
  
  Quote: 





ikarios said:


> Well yes, if budget wasn't an issue, you may as well buy the Orpheus.
> 
> But really, I think he was referring to my situation, in that upgrading to another Lambda wouldn't see huge gains like going to an Omega would. Basically it sounds like he's saying the SR202 is similar enough to the SR507 that upgrading something like the amp would be a better idea.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





nakattack said:


> Green, send me your Stax so I can experience teh awesome that everyone is gushing about


 


  Surely there's stax in QLD


----------



## K3cT

dukja said:


> As I said, I am a Stax newbie and have been thinking about getting a Stax.  His comment sounds like SR202 is quite representable to all Lambda line and if one is not happy with it, then he should jump for omega line.   If that is the case, then I'll go for SR202 for a start of my Stax adventure.
> 
> However, other posts suggest that 507 may give you the sound closer to O2 (instead of being close to 202) and does not have problem of being picky on amp.   To be honest, I am still confused and don't know which Lambda to pick.  507 sounds like a fool-proof (but costy) choice.  I am still learning about Stax.  Thanks for many inputs here.




I thought the SR-202 is a good representative of the Lambda series. It's affordable and it has that airy, spacious feel that is the trademark of this line-up. I don't know about the newer line-ups but I can say that Lambda Pro, 202, 303, 404 Signature and 404 Limited Edition all share the same sound characteristics. 

If we have to keep the budget as low as possible, try to get the SRM-1/MK2 to pair with the SR-202 as it's a much better amplifier than whatever is included in the 2050 system.


----------



## Michgelsen

I have not heard the SR-507. The SR-202 may be marketed as the entry level model, but it sounds really good. What I meant was, that you should not expect a huge difference by going up the ladder one step. Perhaps the SR-507 is much better, being three steps up.


----------



## vrln

I´ve heard the SR-202 and while it was good, it was not on the same league to me as the SR-404 Signature I tried at the same time (which is considered to be a "bad" Lambda). The SR-507 is a clear improvement over the SR-404 signature. Much more natural (not as bright, not as "stinging", more controlled too). As the O2 is so difficult to drive, I wouldn´t buy one unless you intend to go the full way (KGSS or BHSE). And then it´s a completely different price league as well. No idea about the sound quality of the O2 though, never heard it. The But SR-507 will run well out of pretty much any Stax amp, it´s more efficient than previous Lambdas. And there are actually a few comments where people seem to prefer the SR-507 to the SR-007mk2. The mk1 variant is getting hard to find.
   
  So dukja, I´d vote for going for the SR-507 if you enjoy the SR-202. I personally don´t see how you could be disappointed with it. It´s a super turbocharged SR-202. Highly recommended - and it´s just fantastic value compared to HD 800, LCD-2, T1 and similar gear. The SR-507 also, if you ask me, pulls more out of the REF7 than any dynamic headphone will  The combo is simply fantastic.
   
  That said, on this level we are of course in the world of diminishing returns  The SR-202 is no doubt a fantastic bargain, great value for money.


----------



## dukja

Thanks a lot for the post.  I have learned something by this thread and your primer thread.  507 is certainly very intriguing to me.  I definitely will find a balanced amp just to make good use of Ref-7 or Ref-1 (if it wasn't sold soon).
  
  I saw some 507 at ebay.  Is that a good channel to get Stax gear?
  Quote: 





vrln said:


> I´ve heard the SR-202 and while it was good, it was not on the same league to me as the SR-404 Signature I tried at the same time (which is considered to be a "bad" Lambda). The SR-507 is a clear improvement over the SR-404 signature. Much more natural (not as bright, not as "stinging", more controlled too). As the O2 is so difficult to drive, I wouldn´t buy one unless you intend to go the full way (KGSS or BHSE). And then it´s a completely different price league as well. No idea about the sound quality of the O2 though, never heard it. The But SR-507 will run well out of pretty much any Stax amp, it´s more efficient than previous Lambdas. And there are actually a few comments where people seem to prefer the SR-507 to the SR-007mk2. The mk1 variant is getting hard to find.
> 
> So dukja, I´d vote for going for the SR-507 if you enjoy the SR-202. I personally don´t see how you could be disappointed with it. It´s a super turbocharged SR-202. Highly recommended - and it´s just fantastic value compared to HD 800, LCD-2, T1 and similar gear. The SR-507 also, if you ask me, pulls more out of the REF7 than any dynamic headphone will  The combo is simply fantastic.
> 
> That said, on this level we are of course in the world of diminishing returns  The SR-202 is no doubt a fantastic bargain, great value for money.


----------



## chinsettawong

Stax 407 isn't that bad either. I've compared 407 with 507 and the difference is only minimal.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## vrln

The 407 has the same sound element as the 507. The only difference is the new cable, headband and leather pads. Agreed - that would be a fantastic upgrade as well.


----------



## svyr

vrln said:


> The 407 has the same sound element as the 507. .



source?

(speculation?)


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The official Stax website: http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/ExportProducts.html
   
  "T[size=x-small]he first SR-Λ (lambda) series was introduced 30 years ago, and now the SR-307 and SR-407 have adopted the same sounding body (sound element) as that of the top model SR-507."[/size]


----------



## BoogieWoogie

I compared both side by side they didn't sound any way similar.


----------



## Michgelsen

There's another difference: in the 507 the driver is locked in a case of some sort, to attach it to the frame. In other lambdas, the driver is simply glued to the frame.
  
  Quote: 





vrln said:


> The 407 has the same sound element as the 507. The only difference is the new cable, headband and leather pads. Agreed - that would be a fantastic upgrade as well.


----------



## padam

I think not, it is same mounting type on all new Lambdas (207,307,407,507)
  For some people (like me), on the 507 (and 404LE) the leather earpads probably make a bigger difference in sound than to others because of the better fit & sealing.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Can any one share their experience driving the O2 with speakers amps ?


----------



## sokolov91

I'm interested to know if people have an idea of how advanced the new lamda drivers are compared to the O2. Is there a possibility the 507 is actually "higher tech" than the O2?
   
  Sound sigs aside, anyone got objective info?
   
  I figure Spritzer might have some info as he took the 507 apart on the _other_ headphone site.


----------



## Michgelsen

Hmm, so all the x07 Lambdas have that 'case'?
  
  Quote: 





padam said:


> I think not, it is same mounting type on all new Lambdas (207,307,407,507)
> For some people (like me), on the 507 (and 404LE) the leather earpads probably make a bigger difference in sound than to others because of the better fit & sealing.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> Can any one share their experience driving the O2 with speakers amps ?


 

 Search through the Woo WEE threads, you'll probably find the most transformer/speaker amp impressions there.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Hello to all,

 I'm fairly new to this forum and untill now I have read a lot of posts to get a bit acquainted.

 For normal bias phones, I use a SRM-1/Mk2 which I would like to upgrade (actualy a P.P., but I fitted 1 normal bias socket). I have read about swapping out the power transistors for 2SC5466 units, currently used in Stax amps. However, in a SRM-323 thread I read that 2SC3675 transistors are to be preferred over the 2sc5466 units. Why is that and which transistors are best for the SRM-1/Mk2 (p.p.)?

 For pro bias phones, I use a SRM-727II on which I want to perform the "spritzer mod". What resistors are to be used? metal film, carbon film, others? Are 1/2 Watt resistors "big" enough?
 Does it make sense to swap the 2SC5466's in this amp with 2SC3675's (see above)?
 Are the modfied 727 units still going strong? No side effects till now?


----------



## scophone

Quote: 





jirams said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


 


 I agree!!


----------



## svyr

knijsterbek said:


> Hello to all,
> 
> I'm fairly new to this forum and untill now I have read a lot of posts to get a bit acquainted.
> 
> ...




For 1/mk2, I talked to spritzer and kevin at some point when fixing my one, and here's what I have in the pms: 



			
				spritzer said:
			
		

> The green ones (2SA1156) are easy to find....
> The c3148's are the output transistors. 2SC3675 will work as a replacement, same goes for the 2SC5466, 2SC3676 and a lot of other options, including those Fairchild parts used in the Exstata.






			
				kevin.gilmore said:
			
		

> The A1156 is definitely replaceable, but the A1486 is a better part for that.




Not sure about 'better' or 'preferred' but it at least sounds suitable. 
There was also some discussion about not necessarily being able to re-bias the amp after putting in the new transistors, so I'd confirm it with them just in case.


----------



## Ikarios

Ah... put on my SR202s after a few days of testing and trying some other headphones, mainly the recently-useable SR-X and some dynamics like the DT770/80, Sony F1, and comparing to the K501. The SR202s sound like the gates of heaven opening, they sound so glorious. I know there are higher-end Stax but man, I just can't imagine it getting any better than this. I got my ESI Juli@ in as a DAC (an improvement over the hot-rodded X-Fi XtremeMusic I ran it with the first time I got the SR202s in) and it sounds fantastic. I don't think I ever could have found the "perfect" $400 dynamic, so I'm glad I got a chance to jump into the electrostatic arena. I'm working hard on converting my friends into Staxheads, I already got one to pick up a Lambda Pro/SRM-1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I do have to say though, the "Stax fart" is super annoying. It basically means I can't turn my head too far or even move my head much. The left channel is especially annoying, as it tends to fart whenever I move my head too quickly or jiggle it too much. Anyone have some tips on how to reduce this? Is this the mylar diaphragm "farting" or is it some kind of plastic protector? I'm not quite up to speed on the anatomy of a lambda driver yet.


----------



## Townyj

Hmmm this all seems interesting.. Time to do a little research


----------



## svyr

>I do have to say though, the "Stax fart" is super annoying. It basically means I can't turn my head too far or even move my head much. The left channel is especially annoying, as it tends to fart whenever I move my head too quickly or jiggle it too much. Anyone have some tips on how to reduce this? Is this the mylar diaphragm "farting" or is it some kind of plastic protector? I'm not quite up to speed on the anatomy of a lambda driver yet.

don't eat while using them or don't move your head ... was a problem with SR-404 and 202 for me, not a problem with 507. (it's not completely gone, but you can at least chew on something, when using them  ). Don't think you can do anything to reduce it.


----------



## Michgelsen

The Stax fart is an assurance that the headphones are coupled well to the ear.


----------



## vrln

Never noticed it on my SR-507... I guess I don´t move my head much while listening though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





sokolov91 said:


> I'm interested to know if people have an idea of how advanced the new lamda drivers are compared to the O2. Is there a possibility the 507 is actually "higher tech" than the O2?
> 
> Sound sigs aside, anyone got objective info?
> 
> I figure Spritzer might have some info as he took the 507 apart on the _other_ headphone site.


 
   
  Not higher tech in my book as the drivers are pretty much the same as we've seen since 1994.  The holder is new and it is an improvement but nothing revolutionary.  Many of us have been talking about doing the same thing for years...


----------



## EddieE

Good to hear that all the new lambdas use the driver holder that Spritzer revealed in the 507 on that thread in the other forum.
   
  Now... As I have understood it (and correct me if I am wrong) but in the old line the 202 had a lower driver but the 303 and 404 have the same driver (with different cable). 
   
  It also seems to be established that the 507 is basically the 407 with leather pads and new headband arc and again a different cable. 
   
  I personally know from swapping the 303 stock pads for 507 pads how much of that unique 507 sound is down to those pads.
   
  So does this follow that the SR307 with leather pads is basically a much cheaper 507?


----------



## treal512

Quote: 





ikarios said:


> Ah... put on my SR202s after a few days of testing and trying some other headphones, mainly the recently-useable SR-X and some dynamics like the DT770/80, Sony F1, and comparing to the K501. The SR202s sound like the gates of heaven opening, they sound so glorious. I know there are higher-end Stax but man, I just can't imagine it getting any better than this. I got my ESI Juli@ in as a DAC (an improvement over the hot-rodded X-Fi XtremeMusic I ran it with the first time I got the SR202s in) and it sounds fantastic. I don't think I ever could have found the "perfect" $400 dynamic, so I'm glad I got a chance to jump into the electrostatic arena. I'm working hard on converting my friends into Staxheads, I already got one to pick up a Lambda Pro/SRM-1
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Haha, that is too funny. I recently nabbed a STAX 3030 setup (then sold almost all my dynamics) and have the same "farting" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 issue that you and others are having. It is only on my left side and acts up anytime I move my jaw or head. I try not to when listening to the STAX, but it still gets annoying from time to time on the quieter pieces. Nice gates of heaven opening bit there, btw. I agree.
    
   
  Quote:


eddiee said:


> Good to hear that all the new lambdas use the driver holder that Spritzer revealed in the 507 on that thread in the other forum.
> 
> Now... As I have understood it (and correct me if I am wrong) but in the old line the 202 had a lower driver but the 303 and 404 have the same driver (with different cable).
> 
> ...


 

 What kind of change do you hear when going from the stock 303 pads to the 507? I am curious of this!


----------



## EddieE

I wrote some early impressions in this thread here. I haven't changed my mind on them - in summary - the sound of the 507 is a faster, more vibrant and seemingly more detailed one. It also, to my ear, has greater impact. Putting leather pads on a 303 doesn't make them a 507, but it moves them in that direction - places them in that "family" of sound. Presumably the lacking 10% my leathered 303 miss from the 507 would be furnished by the move from 303 to 307. I hope so anyway as the 507 remain my favourite phones listened to so far.
   
  I was comparing the leathers in that post to the old style pads with inbuilt foam screens. As DonQ was desperate for these and I was sticking with the leathers, I swapped them with him for his newer style pleathers with lower profile and cloth screen - these sound worse still than the old foam pleathers IMO.
   
  As karma would have it, I was given a pair of old style foam screen pads a few weeks later as a gift - so have that option to return to as well should I want.


----------



## cusx

just a quick newbie question to understand what I'm reading, SR-007mk2 = Stax Omega 2 ? What is mk1 that everyone is talking about? which is the most popular stax model??


----------



## treal512

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> I wrote some early impressions in this thread here. I haven't changed my mind on them - in summary - the sound of the 507 is a faster, more vibrant and seemingly more detailed one. It also, to my ear, has greater impact. Putting leather pads on a 303 doesn't make them a 507, but it moves them in that direction - places them in that "family" of sound. Presumably the lacking 10% my leathered 303 miss from the 507 would be furnished by the move from 303 to 307. I hope so anyway as the 507 remain my favourite phones listened to so far.
> 
> I was comparing the leathers in that post to the old style pads with inbuilt foam screens. As DonQ was desperate for these and I was sticking with the leathers, I swapped them with him for his newer style pleathers with lower profile and cloth screen - these sound worse still than the old foam pleathers IMO.
> 
> As karma would have it, I was given a pair of old style foam screen pads a few weeks later as a gift - so have that option to return to as well should I want.


 
   
  Thanks for the link, Eddie. You mentioned, "The sound stage, while still very natural and large is diminished with the leather pads. I wonder if this could be fixed by adding a distancer between the baffle and pad..." Did you have any luck with that yet? And where did you buy the pads? I am ok with the stock 303 ones, but if the price is right.. why not? 
   
  PS. Just got a Yaqin CD3 tube buffer delivered today and will be integrating it into the 3030 setup


----------



## EddieE

I got them from Bluetin.com (Looks like they've gone up in price since then, as I expect will be the case with all things from Japan for now).
   
  No I haven't got around to looking at the idea of a distancer yet, I'd actually forgotten all about it! They are stuck down now so I don't know if I'd get around to it as it stands.
   
  I'm fully used to that sound now and as I said in the post the difference in soundstage is pretty minimal - they still have plenty.


----------



## treal512

Ahh, well that is good to know it is minimal. Well rats, I wonder what they charge to ship to the US. Seems like it would turn a decent deal into something less. I need one of those stands too.


----------



## EddieE

From what I remember it was pretty reasonable for the pads alone - after all its only a very small light box. I would probably aim to get a stand domestically as it would be more expensive to ship.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





cusx said:


> just a quick newbie question to understand what I'm reading, SR-007mk2 = Stax Omega 2 ? What is mk1 that everyone is talking about? which is the most popular stax model??


 
   
  SR-Ω = Stax Omega
 SR-007 = Stax omega 2 mk1
  SR-007 mk2 = Stax omega 2 mk2


----------



## treal512

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> I got them from Bluetin.com (Looks like they've gone up in price since then, as I expect will be the case with all things from Japan for now).
> 
> No I haven't got around to looking at the idea of a distancer yet, I'd actually forgotten all about it! They are stuck down now so I don't know if I'd get around to it as it stands.
> 
> I'm fully used to that sound now and as I said in the post the difference in soundstage is pretty minimal - they still have plenty.


 
   
  Hey so I re-read the product description and noticed it mentioned the 404LE. Is it saying they are compatible with the 404LE frame or that they (507s) are the same pads as the 404LE to begin with?


----------



## monsieurguzel

SR-009 = Staximus Ultimatus

  
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> SR-Ω = Stax Omega
> SR-007 = Stax omega 2 mk1
> SR-007 mk2 = Stax omega 2 mk2


----------



## MrQ

SR-009 = Staximus Maximus


----------



## monsieurguzel

nope...that title's already trademarked and copyrighted by Kevin Gilmore 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
  Quote: 





mrq said:


> SR-009 = Staximus Maximus


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





treal512 said:


> Hey so I re-read the product description and noticed it mentioned the 404LE. Is it saying they are compatible with the 404LE frame or that they (507s) are the same pads as the 404LE to begin with?


 

 99% sure they are the same pads. Mainly because Stax isn't the type of company to create new pads when they likely had stocks of the old, also for the fact that when I first bookmarked the ad when I was thinking about getting them it said 404LE leather pads and were described as EP234, by the time I came to order them the page had changed to what it says now. The box they arrived in said EP-507 on it.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





don quichotte said:


> As a general conclusion, I think it's a good idea for the various Stax Lambda series users to try the different kinds of pads as they might discover this way an easy solution to subjectively upgrade their headphones. I also find the edstrelow's idea of removing the back foam interesting, but I must confess I didn't have the guts to try it as I've already had enough problems with my 303s. Unfortunately, I don't like to use leather, meat etc., so I'll not try the leather pads myself (my K1000's headband and pads are an exception as the phones were bought used when they were already out of production). But that's just me and a very different topic that has no place in this thread, I'm just too talkative now.


 

 Thank you for sharing that. I, too, have issues with meat/leather/animal flesh and sometimes feel like the odd man out. Like you, I would not normally raise this subject in a headphone context. It was nice to discover a kindred spirit in this regard.


----------



## cusx

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> SR-Ω = Stax Omega
> SR-007 = Stax omega 2 mk1
> SR-007 mk2 = Stax omega 2 mk2


 
  Thanks for reply.
   
  Where can I see the full product list for Stax ? Apparently, on their website, I can't find the specifications for SR- Ω  or Stax-007


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *cusx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Where can I see the full product list for Stax ? Apparently, on their website, I can't find the specifications for SR- Ω  or Stax-007


 


  Try here: http://earsp.web.fc2.com/sitemap.htm.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





jgazal said:


> Try here: http://earsp.web.fc2.com/sitemap.htm.


 

 Thanks for that! Bookmarked!


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Not higher tech in my book as the drivers are pretty much the same as we've seen since 1994.  The holder is new and it is an improvement but nothing revolutionary.  Many of us have been talking about doing the same thing for years...


 

 Ty for the info.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Not higher tech in my book as the drivers are pretty much the same as we've seen since 1994.  The holder is new and it is an improvement but nothing revolutionary.  Many of us have been talking about doing the same thing for years...


 

 Wasn't the newer lambda mount actually inspired by the Omega2? I thought thats where the "07" came from, because it was borrowed from the 007.

 RE: Higher tech - i don't think theres going to be any truly huge changes to the headphone game until graphene allows thinner and stronger moving parts than BOPET.
   
   
  Quote: 





cusx said:


> Thanks for reply.
> 
> Where can I see the full product list for Stax ? Apparently, on their website, I can't find the specifications for SR- Ω  or Stax-007


 

 http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stax_Earspeakers_Overview#Stax_Electrostatic_and_Electret_Earspeakers_Models


----------



## treal512

So I've noticed with the 303 that there seems to be no feeling of sound (stage) in front of me.. is this the case with the 404 and newer x07s? I guess it's taken me a while to really feel it as something lacking because initially I was ok with it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Wasn't the newer lambda mount actually inspired by the Omega2? I thought thats where the "07" came from, because it was borrowed from the 007.
> 
> RE: Higher tech - i don't think theres going to be any truly huge changes to the headphone game until graphene allows thinner and stronger moving parts than BOPET.


 
   
  No, it has more in common with how the SR-Omega was assembled.  Still it is better executed since it has rubber seals on both ends and it shouldn't fail with age as so many Omegas have. 
   
  My point about high tech was that the drivers are still pretty much the same as the 1994 models.  Same basic construction.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





treal512 said:


> So I've noticed with the 303 that there seems to be no feeling of sound (stage) in front of me.. is this the case with the 404 and newer x07s? I guess it's taken me a while to really feel it as something lacking because initially I was ok with it.


 


  Isn't this just one of the natural weaknesses of traditional headphones? IMO electrostats offer far more realistic imaging and depth within that same old left-inyourhead-right restriction, but the basic set of of a speaker next to either ear, isolated from the other, will always leave you in the same basic territory.
   
  Binaural recordings help shake off some of those restrictions but are rare, doly special effects IMO utterly ruin the music. There are some high end pieces of hardware I've read of which circumvent it and mimic speakers in a far more natural way, but I've never trialed them so can't comment.


----------



## treal512

Hmm, I suppose. I don't have a lot of experience with electrostats or planars, so I can't really say. All I know is it feels like the music is going on behind me. Maybe I had the same thing with some of my cheaper dynamics (sold) and just wasn't paying as much attention, I don't know. A local Head-Fi meet is coming up this weekend though, so hopefully I can make that and pay attention to soundstages.


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





treal512 said:


> Hmm, I suppose. I don't have a lot of experience with electrostats or planars, so I can't really say. All I know is it feels like the music is going on behind me. Maybe I had the same thing with some of my cheaper dynamics (sold) and just wasn't paying as much attention, I don't know. A local Head-Fi meet is coming up this weekend though, so hopefully I can make that and pay attention to soundstages.


 

 I'd try fooling around with where they are placed on my head if you haven't already... headphones always seem to sound best to me when they are a little lower down and forward than I would normally wearing them.
   
  Jan has a diagram on his "tips and tricks" page http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/
   
  If you though of this already please don't take this the wrong way haha.
   
  The 404 I tried had quite a nice soundstage to me IMO. Not HD 800 level (artificial but great IMO) but very nice.


----------



## padam

Better yet, try a Stax Sigma


----------



## Deadneddz

^indeed


----------



## EddieE

Wouldn't a sigma just have a greater headphone soundstage? Still no way for the left ear to get the right ears channel though?


----------



## padam

No it has different positioning as well, in front of the listener and not panned to the left and right. There is a little crosstalk sometimes but it is not distracting.


----------



## jaycalgary

"Wouldn't a sigma just have a greater headphone soundstage? Still no way for the left ear to get the right ears channel though?"
  "There is a little crosstalk sometimes but it is not distracting."
   
  I use a homebrew type Sigma but they are only partially insulated leaving the very back open and love the sound. Your question made me
  think and there seems to be some kind of crossfeed going on. I do like it because the channel separation does not seem as much as my other
  earspeakers. At times sound still seems to come from behind the ear.


----------



## edstrelow

Higher frequencies are  directional so I think their  backwave will not bend around the head to give crossfeed or even get into the ear chamber.  Some lower frequencies could get around the head into the chamber, but the sound levels are going to be pretty low.  You just don't hear much bass outside of a Sigma. 
   
  As regards the insulation of the earcup, I can't really tell whether it serves the role of blocking the backwave from getting to the ear or setting up a resonating chamber. I would guess a bit of both.
   
  I recall when I had my Sigma Pro and Sigma/404 set up at the LA Canjam, that someone referred to the "huge" soundstage of these phones.  I guess that's one way of looking at them. I just seem to hear the sounds in a real life space.  I guess that's a huge space compared to the "within the head" experience of most headphones.


----------



## lbj

Is there room on this boat?  I just bought a SR-5/SRD-6 pairing off of ebay.  Looking forward to my first taste of electrostats.


----------



## arnaud

Stax experts: help!!

Yesterday evening, I could no longer hear any sound from my 727A/O2 rig. Just a faint sound when pushing the volume all the way up. 

I tried the following without success:
- Switched the source
- Power off, power on
- Unplug / replug the phone
- Plug the phone into the other outlet

What's wrong doc??

One thing though, the potentiomer was almost maxed out when I got home and my 1 year old is developping a taste for audio as of late, in particular volume controls and power switches.....

Thanks in advance for any advice


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Stax experts: help!!
> 
> Yesterday evening, I could no longer hear any sound from my 727A/O2 rig. Just a faint sound when pushing the volume all the way up.
> 
> ...


 
  Best of luck to you!... and to your kid too if you are indeed unlucky (LOL).
   
  Hopefully it is something simple, or like a fuse.


----------



## jaycalgary

Check the flux capacitor beside the gonkulator.


----------



## arnaud

Will do this and let you know if a toast comes out. 

Ahh, that's what I call expert help!


----------



## Michgelsen

Still no change? Could be that some protection circuit kicked in, because of overheating for example. I've had that happen to my 717. It also cut off sound once when I plugged in my headphones.
The sound would come back after the amp being powered off for a while.

If this is not the case, the amp might me damaged. It seems unlikely that the fuse has blown, because the amp still powers up, doesn't it?


----------



## DaveBSC

Positive Feedback reviews the WES and SR-507: http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue54/woo_audio.htm


 "This was one of those rare listening experiences that we have all lived through. Within just a few minutes of music, I could tell that I was gonna be in for a long dramatic sleigh ride of ecstasy (I am in the Chicago area after all. Yep, I just love the snow and winters here). Despite my extreme enthusiasm for my HD800 and WA22 system with upgraded headphone cables, I was now entering a new frontier.


 With the WES, I was hearing spatial queues and performance nuances that I had never experienced before. Recordings that I have listened to for many years now seemed newly inspirational. Inevitably, when you crank up the detail and speed of a system, there's a good chance that you will also increase the level of listener fatigue. Nothing could be further from the truth with the WES. Proper timbre and weight were still spot on despite the rush of information. Mid range vocals and instruments were still rich and creamy, but with more inner detail. Highs had the correct amount of sizzle and splash. Cymbals had a more realistic balance of metal and sheen. Transparency was the best I have heard on any system. Please note, this is quite a statement considering my 40 plus years on this roller coaster ride."
   
  Once you go STAX...


----------



## arnaud

Bingo! It's working just fine tonight!! My guess is that my daughter must have switched it off and on while the pot was maxed out, which it did not like. Then, I must not have turned off the amp long enough last night when I tried to make it work again...
   
  That's a relief to hear this is normal operation for the amp! The documentation I have is in Japanese so I can't figure this stuff out...
   
  Thanks for your response!
   
  arnaud
   
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Still no change? Could be that some protection circuit kicked in, because of overheating for example. I've had that happen to my 717. It also cut off sound once when I plugged in my headphones.
> The sound would come back after the amp being powered off for a while.
> 
> If this is not the case, the amp might me damaged. It seems unlikely that the fuse has blown, because the amp still powers up, doesn't it?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Bingo! It's working just fine tonight!! My guess is that my daughter must have switched it off and on while the pot was maxed out, which it did not like. Then, I must not have turned off the amp long enough last night when I tried to make it work again...
> 
> That's a relief to hear this is normal operation for the amp! The documentation I have is in Japanese so I can't figure this stuff out...
> 
> ...


 


 It may be time to open the unit up and clean the dust out to prevent overheating.


----------



## lbj

Quick question for those using transformers/adapters: do you leave them plugged in (to the wall) all the time?  Any concerns with leaving the headphones energized all the time?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Update on the custom tips for the 001s/003s.  My second set of tips came in but I missed the call so I can't pick them up until Monday.  If these don't work, I'm switching having the tips done for the Denon C-710s and I'll have to make a custom headband for the 001s and use the stock donuts.  Fingers crossed.


----------



## svyr

updated the impressions on SR-507 http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-507-electrostatic-earspeaker/reviews/4453  the note about bass makes me a bit sad, but I suppose, we can't have clear mids and deep/ample lower end especially in open headphones  ? Maybe it's to do with me using a crappy NOS dac, since MD11 has DC on line out and D100 is packed up/NFB-10WM is in transit, but still...


----------



## K3cT

You can, by going the Omega + BHSE route.


----------



## svyr

k3ct said:


> You can, by going the Omega + BHSE route.




is that about $5k or 6k or 7k  ?
A good rule with HP might be not buying them when the cost is > a car that's under 100k and not falling apart  .


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 And... here's yet another, though similar, perspective from Lunatique, comparing the O2's to more "mundane" (though certainly great) phones:   
   
  "This (the O2's + 717) was a luxury purchase not fueled by practical concerns, and that’s how I’m going to enjoy the 007mk2–as a subjective and uniquely pleasurable experience apart from the familiar dynamic headphones sound. Tragically, the previous bad choice of comparing the D7000 to the 007mk2 caused my initial impression of the 007mk2 to be overly positive, and now when _comparing the Stax rig to my other headphones, the Stax’s superiority isn’t nearly as significant or even objectively evident_, which diminishes what should have been an ecstatic experience of finally owning the 007mk2. Sure, it is very refined and classy, with delicacy and elegance unlike any other headphone I’ve ever heard, and the only one I’d use the word “ethereal” to describe, _but in some ways I wonder if at over $3,000 the Stax rig is worth keeping_."  (see:  http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-007-mk2/reviews  for full review)
   
   
  My experience was similar (O2's + 007t II)... because their sound was only a "wee bit" better in a few respects than my other phones... I just couldn't justify the "high cost" of achieving that "wee bit" better sound... much less... investing $7K+ in any headphone setup to achieve their optimum sound.  Some who may place a high value on "nuance" may find some way to "justify" their significant investment in O2 setups - while many others would not. 
   
  Though... I would acknowledge.. the SR-507 + SRM-323S combo... is certainly a great sounding combo... which is very price competitive with my dynamic rigs - and a much harder choice.


----------



## visualguy

True, but many spend thousands on dynamic headphones setups, which makes even less "sense" in my opinion. My recommendation would be to buy a good Stax setup if you're going to blow that kind of money on a headphones setup.


----------



## n3rdling

The concept of diminishing returns is nothing new.


----------



## hifidk

I would still keep my O2 + 717 rig over any other dynamic/ortho rig I have had. Price difference isn't that much compared to good solid dynamic rig anyway.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hifidk said:


> I would still keep my O2 + 717 rig over any other dynamic/ortho rig I have had. Price difference isn't that much compared to good solid dynamic rig anyway.


 

 Agreed, especially if you can manage to get them second hand. An O2 Mk1 and 717 might cost you $2500-2800, which is quite reasonable given the performance they offer.


----------



## sokolov91

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Agreed, especially if you can manage to get them second hand. An O2 Mk1 and 717 might cost you $2500-2800, which is quite reasonable given the performance they offer.


 

 Second hand is always great haha.
   
   
  Seems to me there are contradictions in logic here though, or to me at any rate.
   
  Just because some people spend X amount of money on a dynamic system does not mean it represents actual performance value. If we assume that stats are fundamentally superior to dynamics it is even less logical to be spending large sums on squeezing the last drop out of an inferior technology such as a dynamic rig.
   
  But then again a lot of our perceptions are projected on to our gear. I have my doubts people could easily distinguish the innate sound characteristics of one transducer type from another in a study. Maybe dynamics vs stats is do able, but throw orthos into the mix and I am sure results would be slightly better than chance if at all. Just depends on how you look at it really, but I would say either view advocates rapid diminishing returns... especially when you consider people are basically just trying different preset EQs that headphones are and could probably save a bundle using an EQ... but then we wouldn't have a hobby. 
   
  The only real concept of value around here is level of satisfaction, or to me anyways. So to some the omegas are a crazy waste of money for the "advantages" they have, and to others they are the only way to go as they essentially bought their piece of mind. Either way both people are satisfied listening to music even if one spent significantly less than the other. 
   
  That being said, it would be nice if everyone who was going to drop  3k did so on an omega set rather than RCA cables, a tube amp made by someone who didn't make it through EE school, and funny looking pebbles because other people encouraged them to do so.


----------



## MrGreen

Diminishing returns is hugely overstated at the pre-stax level if you ask me, and for the most part, I'm easily willing to say that price and performance aren't really consistent.

 Talking for headphones at least. Jury is still out on my thoughts for dacs/amps given my lack of experience.
  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The concept of diminishing returns is nothing new.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





			
				sokolov91 said:
			
		

> That being said, it would be nice if everyone who was going to drop  3k did so on an omega set rather than RCA cables, a tube amp made by someone who didn't make it through EE school, and funny looking pebbles because other people encouraged them to do so.


 


 So you are saying that you are not inclined to spend $10K samolians on an Apex Pinnacle?
  (I like funny looking pebbles and Hello Kitty acoustic wall treatments, but they do cost extra!)


----------



## FrankCooter

It's quite possible to put together a pretty good "working man's" electrostatic system for not much more than a grand. Used Koss ESP950's. DIY amp with 400V rails. "High end" vintage DAC that now sells for 20% of its original price. PC source. Sure, it will be "beaten" by a $10K system, but the difference will be a lot less than you might think. Major "bang for the buck".with a little effort and creativity..


----------



## K3cT

Perhaps an SR-507 and eXstata would fit that bill well? Should be in the range of $1500 and can give the HD800 a good run for its money.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Well, one doesn't have to send a lot of money to get a high end system, although I must admit that I did spend some money on mine. There certainly are all kinds of little tweaks that can be done to improve upon the performance one has with the current system at hand. When you think about it, it all comes down to the source. Some recordings are good and others are just terrible. Dirty electricity also can play a part in producing terrible sound. Every turn along the sound reproduction process has to be to the listeners interest. It is best to proceed slowly and buy pieces one at a time over a course of a long time. One shouldn't be fooled by the latest-greatest new piece of equipment that comes to market right away. Give new pieces time and probably wait at least a year after to then buy them. Many of my pieces were bought used, at a discount but in excellent condition. I never actually thought I would be able to build my system to the level it is at now. I am still using very inexpensive speaker cables, interconnectors, power cords etc. The most important thing to enjoy the music.


----------



## cascode

I've been lurking here for a while, and have read the last 200 pages of postings in this forum, but I'd like some recent opinions on a couple of pieces of gear.
   
  After using a number of different dynamic headphones (I'm familiar with Alessandro MS-Pro, AKG 701, Sennheiser HD-650, Audez'e LCD-2, and Beyerdynamic T1) just last week I heard Stax for the first time.  I was auditioning amps in a local hi-fi store as possible partners for the Beyerdynamics I have most recently been using, and out of curiosity I listened to a pair of SR-507 with the SRM-600LE amp that was on display.
   
  Blew my mind, and consequently I'm currently auctioning all my current headphones, amps and some other gear so I can go the Stax route.  I can't afford the SR-007 headphones (which I also listened to), but that's OK as I really liked the sound of the SR-507, so they are a definite.
   
  As for the amp, the SRM-600LE sounded very nice indeed, but the SRM-323 that they also had in the shop sounded pretty good with the 507s for a lot less money - I actually thought it had a slightly better grip on the bass. Those are the only Stax amps I've been able to hear, and I'd like opinions as to how other amps sound in comparison.
   
  I'm particularly interested in the Woo GES.  It and the 600LE are at the limit of my budget.  The KGSS might just be possible, but I don't think I could afford it for some time.  My musical tastes encompass contemporary jazz (Nik Bartsch, Terje Rypdal, etc) modern prog (Riverside, Porcupine Tree, etc) electronica (FSOL, Fila Brazillia, etc) jazz/folk (John Martyn, Harry Manx, etc) and chamber music.  I like bass, but tight fast musical bass that drives the music - I'm not a bass-head as such.
   
  I'd prefer an amp rather than an energiser.
   
  Thanks for any opinions.


----------



## webbie64

Quote: 





cascode said:


> ...Blew my mind, and consequently I'm currently auctioning all my current headphones, amps and some other gear so I can go the Stax route.  I can't afford the SR-007 headphones (which I also listened to), but that's OK as I really liked the sound of the SR-507, so they are a definite.


 

  
  Congrats on discovering electrostatics!
   
  Quote: 





cascode said:


> I'd like opinions as to how other amps sound in comparison.
> 
> I'm particularly interested in the Woo GES.  It and the 600LE are at the limit of my budget.  The KGSS might just be possible, but I don't think I could afford it for some time.  My musical tastes encompass contemporary jazz (Nik Bartsch, Terje Rypdal, etc) modern prog (Riverside, Porcupine Tree, etc) electronica (FSOL, Fila Brazillia, etc) jazz/folk (John Martyn, Harry Manx, etc) and chamber music.  I like bass, but tight fast musical bass that drives the music - I'm not a bass-head as such.
> 
> I'd prefer an amp rather than an energiser.


 

 IMHO the GES will serve you better for your jazz, jazz/folk and chamber music than the modern prog (yes, I do share a number of your musical preferences 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).  I think the modern prog sounds better without tubes in the path but the jazz based stuff works better with them (all MHO).
   
  In your position I'd try and find a secondhand ExStata (Hybrid preferred) and I wouldn't write off an energiser if you have a good speaker amp (that you like the sound of)  to drive it.
   
  Good luck in your journey of electrostatic discovery.


----------



## Gradofan2

As I noted above... I prefer the 323S to the 007t II with the 507's.  The 323 is a good value and has plenty of power output to drive them well - the combo sounds great with acoustic music of all kinds.  I doubt, you'll find the GES, or KGSS, will produce sound that is significantly better - enough to justify their much higher price.  Unless, you value "nuance."
   
  If you later want some "tube sound" - just get a good tube buffer, for a lot less.


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





webbie64 said:


> In your position I'd try and find a secondhand ExStata (Hybrid preferred) and I wouldn't write off an energiser if you have a good speaker amp (that you like the sound of)  to drive it.


 
   
  Duly noted - I have a recently acquired Unison Research Unico Secondo hybrid amp for the speakers, which has a second set of dedicated speaker outputs for bi-amping, so an energiser is not out of the question.  My main reason for preferring an amp for the headphones is flexibility in case I decide to move it to my study instead of the lounge.
   
  Hey - you're in Sydney!  What suburb? - I'm in The Glebe. Cheers mate


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> ... The 323 is a good value and has plenty of power output to drive them well - the combo sounds great with acoustic music of all kinds.  I doubt, you'll find the GES, or KGSS, will produce sound that is significantly better - enough to justify their much higher price.  Unless, you value "nuance."


 

 Nuance is nice, but finances rule 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Thanks for the comments - I had a good feeling about the 507 + 323 combo - good to hear a second opinion.  I think so far that it is my preferred solution.  It also has the bonus that as both the cans and amp are under $1k I don't have to pay import duty on them.  I wouldn't buy Stax retail in Australia - the prices are laughable.  The local hi-fi store is asking $3,999 for the 507 + 600LE combination - and that is a discount from the regular rrp of $4,499!  Remember that at the moment our dollar is worth more than the greenback, and that gives you some idea how badly the local prices are inflated.  The 007 cans and 007 amp are $7,999!!!
   
  Cheers


----------



## dyna10x

Yes the prices that that shop charge are a joke. I rang them up one day to price some new headphones and almost fainted when the told me the price. I ended up getting a second hand amp & headphone from Japan through Kuboten for $500 shipped.


----------



## Asr

Quote: 





cascode said:


> The KGSS might just be possible, but I don't think I could afford it for some time.


 
   
  The (HeadAmp) KGSS is actually discontinued now: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/544566/10-of-all-headamp-order-revenues-donated-to-japan-relief-efforts-march-16-thru-march-24-est/30#post_7359334


----------



## dukja

I saw some vintage Lambdas that the edge of the leather pad seems to be separated from the plastic grill/cup slightly.  Is that something to avoid? Or that was just normal wear and a new pair of pad can fix that?  Many thanks!


----------



## Michgelsen

That's nothing to worry about. The adhesive may have lost some of its force. You can usually press the pads back in place and they will stick again, or use double-sided tape to fasten them further. New pads are always an option as well, but not needed if they are otherwise still in good condition.


----------



## dukja

Thank you so much for the quick reply. 
   
  An extended question: some of the pad show "crease" or slight "valley" on the surface.  Are those any concern for provide good sealing?  Or those are natural there?
   
  Thanks again!
  
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> That's nothing to worry about. The adhesive may have lost some of its force. You can usually press the pads back in place and they will stick again, or use double-sided tape to fasten them further. New pads are always an option as well, but not needed if they are otherwise still in good condition.


----------



## treal512

Anyone able to say how the SRM-313 and 323 compare? I have the SR-303, but I'm half considering the 507.


----------



## vrln

Welcome to the Stax world cascode  That happened to me to, except I was that impressed with a "lowly" 404 Signature already compared to the HD 800 I had at home. To be honest, Stax restored my faith in headphone technology. To me they are the only thing in the headphone world that can compete against speakers. Oh and I ended up with that SR-507/SRM-600 combo - loving it every day!  No need to browse the headphones forum anymore, just the portable one. As for your amp question, the 323 amp is great value, with those prices I´d go for that instead. 
   
  Quote: 





cascode said:


> Blew my mind, and consequently I'm currently auctioning all my current headphones, amps and some other gear so I can go the Stax route.  I can't afford the SR-007 headphones (which I also listened to), but that's OK as I really liked the sound of the SR-507, so they are a definite.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Thank you so much for the quick reply.
> 
> An extended question: some of the pad show "crease" or slight "valley" on the surface.  Are those any concern for provide good sealing?  Or those are natural there?
> 
> Thanks again!


 

 Mine have a small gap between the pad and the plastic on one side- I believe it may be part of the design, as they are otherwise in nigh-perfect condition. Otherwise, it's an adhesive issue and has no meaningful impact on sound in my experience (just pushing them down).
   
  If you are talking about one side of the pad being smaller/more shallow than the other, that is intentional. I believe it is why they call it the "semi-panorama" or something along those lines. The idea is that the stax use a free field curve, so the headphones are tilted slightly infront of you (as a flat speaker making the free-field sound is infront of you).


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





vrln said:


> ... Stax restored my faith in headphone technology. To me they are the only thing in the headphone world that can compete against speakers. Oh and I ended up with that SR-507/SRM-600 combo - loving it every day!  No need to browse the headphones forum anymore ...


 

 One of the thing that most impressed me with Stax is how relaxed and effortless the music is, regardless of scale or whether it is intimate jazz or powerful rock.  A friend and I went over to the shop to have another listen two days after I first heard them (he was not familiar with Stax either) and his immediate comment was "I could listen to these all day and not get tired".  I thought that summed it up pretty well.


----------



## cascode

I've just placed an order with PriceJapan for the SR-507 headphones, so now I have to wait impatiently .  I'm still uncertain about the amp, but there is a hi-fi club in Sydney so I'll go along to their next meeting and see if any of the guys (funny how audio is such a guy thing, isn't it?) also have Stax and would let me have a listen to their amps.  A friend has the 2050 package and said he'd loan me his amp for a week or so until I get something else, so at least I can hear the now toy!
   
  Regarding energisers, is there any sort of limit to the level of amp with which they can be used?  My speaker amp puts out 100W into 8 ohms - would it be too big?  Most comments I've read have been from people using them on lower powered amps.  Also, given that the speaker output is subject to volume attenuation, how do you use the amp for an energiser but not have the speakers working - what am I missing here?


----------



## paaj

Normally the energiser has a switch: headphones or speakers. 
  A 100W amp does not just deliver 100W everytime, that would probably also blow up your speakers, you can control the volume  
   
  I can see how a lower powered amp could bring the power more delicate which is beneficial for headphones since they are much more revealing to the signal.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





cascode said:


> funny how audio is such a guy thing, isn't it?


 


  No


----------



## BoogieWoogie

So I grabed an O2 with a SRD-7mk2 being powered by an Audiolab 8000 and I notice that the bass is kinda sloppy and pretty much all vocals extend the 'sss that are sharp as a razor blade... Is this a characteristic from O2 or is this a signal of inappropriate amping ?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> So I grabed an O2 with a SRD-7mk2 being powered by an Audiolab 8000 and I notice that the bass is kinda sloppy and pretty much all vocals extend the 'sss that are sharp as a razor blade... Is this a characteristic from O2 or is this a signal of inappropriate amping ?


 

 The SRD-7 is not appropriate to drive the O2, at all. If you want to use a speaker amp, you need a much bigger transformer.


----------



## trevorlane

.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Picked up the tips from the Audiologist.  There must have been a communication breakdown... again.  They are hell bent of putting a tiny opening and making the end s like IEMs...  But the good news is, it was easily corrected with a trusty, sharp X-acto knife!  I have to bring them back to be smoothed, buffed, and polished, but I think these tips will do the trick!  The comfort of this second pair is stellar and they hold much, much better too.  Pics later...


----------



## Ikarios

I'm currently comparing my SR-202 with a friend's old Lambda Pro he picked up recently. Without going into too much detail I'll say that I like the SR-202 a little more overall. It has a smoother response and pretty punchy sub-bass for what is there. The Lambda Pros have bass, but it's more midbass, and isn't quite as punchy. My main issue is that the Lambda Pro has a little bit of stridency in the treble, right on the attack of crash cymbals. Due to this it sounds like the treble is etched. Besides the stridency in the treble they are actually quite close to my ears, although I'm not the best at discerning differences in small details between headphones. The next thing I'll have to do is compare my SRM-252 to his SRM-1 mk2, but this will be harder since I'll have to match volumes and switch RCA cables as well as headphone cables.
   
  One thing I did notice is that the pads on the SR-202 are much softer (real imitation leather 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) whereas the pads on the Lambda Pros are more plasticky and vinyl, like vintage AKG K240 pads (shiny, somewhat hard, etc). I do find that the SR-202 pads get hot very quickly (within 5-10 minutes), which is the main cause of my pad discomfort - my ears begin to sweat after less than an hour. So far I'm not getting this issue with the Lambda Pros. I doubt anyone can answer this question but what were the pads originally like on the Lambda Pros when they were new? Is this a difference in pad material or pad age?
  TIA


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> So I grabed an O2 with a SRD-7mk2 being powered by an Audiolab 8000 and I notice that the bass is kinda sloppy and pretty much all vocals extend the 'sss that are sharp as a razor blade... Is this a characteristic from O2 or is this a signal of inappropriate amping ?


 
  The O2 is one of the smoothest headphones without weird upper mids/lower treble peaks/dips, and a SRD7Pro is quite good (in case the zinc coated connectors aren't corroded and the ~30 years old transformer gear isn't defective* and* the speaker amp is quite good).A good speaker amp/SRD7Pro combo is in its special way competitive to good dedicated headphone amps.The sloppy bass might be partly due to the transformer.Most of it is characteristic for the O2 though.The bloated O2 bass isn't that great even with very expensive amps IMO, but again : there must be something wrong with your amp or the SRD.The O2 doesn't emphasize sibilants at all.
   
  Quote: 





> The SRD-7 is not appropriate to drive the O2, at all


 
  This seems to be a minority orinion.Lots of members did and do utilize the old transformers and do like it better than mediocre direct drive amps.Maybe it's a question of perspective.What exactly is appropriate then? If the answer is T2 or even rarer/more expensive amps the SRDPro varieties  are not appropriate at all ......


----------



## TheAttorney

Whilst searching the web for the UK retail price of the SR-009, I noticed, from one retailer's site, that the O2 price had increased a whopping £500 last week, from £1,495 to £1,995 - that's over 30% 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
   
  The O2+energizer combo prices had also increased, but by just under 10%.
   
  So, is this due to the ongoing rise of the Yen? Or a cynical attempt to minimise the impact of the high cost of the SR-009 - by hiking up the price of the lower model?
  My guess is that it's a bit of both. Still don't know what the UK price of the  SR-009 is going to be.


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *trevorlane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 5 post n00b fail, soon he'll graduate to bashing beats and bose, so on and so forth.


 
   
  What?


----------



## MrGreen

Anyone able to calculate electric field strength for your average stax phone? Alternatively, anyone able to give me a figure of the number of amperes/couloumbs running through it?

  Amp output would be sufficient, I suppose.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





cosmopragma said:


> This seems to be a minority orinion.Lots of members did and do utilize the old transformers and do like it better than mediocre direct drive amps.Maybe it's a question of perspective.What exactly is appropriate then? If the answer is T2 or even rarer/more expensive amps the SRDPro varieties  are not appropriate at all ......


 

 None of the Stax transformers were never designed for anything _near _as power hungry as the O2. Same goes for nearly all of the Stax amps. Whether the GES is appropriate is the subject of some debate, some are quite happy with that combo. The Stax 717 is a perfectly capable amp, as is the "fixed" 727. The KGSS also works, and of course at the high end there's the BHSE and the WES. Nobody is saying that you _need _a T2 (although if you want to hear 100% of what the O2 is capable of... maybe you do). The SRD-7 just isn't going to do the job properly. Sloppy bass and etched treble is not how they sound at all with a good amp.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> None of the Stax transformers were never designed for anything _near _as power hungry as the O2. Same goes for nearly all of the Stax amps.


 
  Well,  the transformers themselves don't provide any power at all.They are passive devices.
  Most of the loudspeaker amps that are utilized for the task in combination with transformers  do certainly provide way more power than any electrostatic headphones could ever swallow (and some are capable of driving very complex loads that are quite common in the loudspeaker world).
   
  Quote: 





> The SRD-7 just isn't going to do the job properly. Sloppy bass and etched treble is not how they sound at all with a good amp.


 
  Admittedly the coils of the old SRD7Pro transformers are a bit undersized for deepest bass but that's not much of a problem unless you are fond of special church organ music or some varieties of electronica.Most music doesn't contain substantial amounts of frequencies below 40 Hz anyway.
  And again : etched treble is absolutely not characteristic for the transformer sound.That's a sign of a crappy loudspeaker amp or an age old transformer box desperately in need of a revision/renovation.


----------



## spritzer

The SRD-7 was indeed designed for the SR-5 and that part of the design never changed over the dozens or so versions out there. 
   
  As for the amps, the ESP's are a reactive load just like all electrostatic speakers and many amps don't like that one bit.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





cosmopragma said:


> Well,  the transformers themselves don't provide any power at all.They are passive devices.
> Most of the loudspeaker amps that are utilized for the task in combination with transformers  do certainly provide way more power than any electrostatic headphones could ever swallow (and some are capable of driving very complex loads that are quite common in the loudspeaker world).
> 
> Admittedly the coils of the old SRD7Pro transformers are a bit undersized for deepest bass but that's not much of a problem unless you are fond of special church organ music or some varieties of electronica.Most music doesn't contain substantial amounts of frequencies below 40 Hz anyway.
> And again : etched treble is absolutely not characteristic for the transformer sound.That's a sign of a crappy loudspeaker amp or an age old transformer box desperately in need of a revision/renovation.


 
  Total agreement, from personal experience. MY SRD-7s are modified with Spritzer's boards and rewired to a direct path from the inputs to the transformers and from them to the jacks. It is a great improvement, but even with the stock boxes great quality amps produced great quality sound. A small low watt amp of superior quality will sound better than a typical speaker amp. A hundred watts is total overkill. Five or ten perfect watts will amaze you. Don't worry about the numbers, just the quality of the electronics.
   
  A little EL84 amp with a lot of iron will throw enough current into the transformer box to best almost any large amp sound wise.


----------



## vrln

Quote: 





cascode said:


> What?


 

 No idea - to me it seems like some people overreacted to the "audio is a guy thing" comment. Which is entirely true, and I´m sure you´re not the only one here who finds it odd. Anyway, let us know how you like the Stax gear once you receive it! I wouldn´t even consider non-electrostats anymore. All dynamic headphones sound edgy and fatiguing after them, "digital" to use the common "audiophile term". Orthos on the other hand have no soundstage (at least the LCD-2 doesn´t).


----------



## cascode

Scanning through the posts here I've come across mention of a recommended mod to the SRM-727 amp.  I believe it is a change in 4 resistors, so I guess they are near the output and would be altering the bass rolloff.
   
  Anyway, I can't find a specific post with instructions or description although I've searched the thread - anyone able to help?  A photo would be real nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Cheers


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





cascode said:


> Scanning through the posts here I've come across mention of a recommended mod to the SRM-727 amp.  I believe it is a change in 4 resistors, so I guess they are near the output and would be altering the bass rolloff.
> 
> Anyway, I can't find a specific post with instructions or description although I've searched the thread - anyone able to help?  A photo would be real nice
> 
> ...


 
   
  PM me with your PM address, or email address, and I'll provide you the reference with pictures.


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> PM me with your PM address, or email address, and I'll provide you the reference with pictures.


 

 Many thanks - you got mail


----------



## Knijsterbek

I have performed the SRM-727 mod (4 resistors per channel) myself and I can really recommend it. I use it to drive the SR-007_MK2 and the SR-Sigma Pro (which also is difficult to drive) and I like the sound over an SRM-1 Mk2 and a SRM-t1. The latter I like with Sigma normal bias and Lambda normal bias.
   
  If still needed, I can also provide details on the 727 mod.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> I have performed the SRM-727 mod (4 resistors per channel) myself and I can really recommend it. I use it to drive the SR-007_MK2 and the SR-Sigma Pro (which also is difficult to drive) and I like the sound over an SRM-1 Mk2 and a SRM-t1. The latter I like with Sigma normal bias and Lambda normal bias.
> 
> If still needed, I can also provide details on the 727 mod.


 

 That would be great - If you could provide a sufficiently detailed description of your mods - to allow others to complete them. 
   
  Are they the same as Spritzer's mods - though, I think he just added 2 resistors per channel, and later suggested only 2 per channel were really required?
   
  If you have pics available that would be great too. 
   
  Or... if... you've documented this mods on another forum - perhaps you could just allow us to eMail you for the reference.


----------



## Germs

What is improved with that mod? From the information I found it improves the basses and the gain, anything else?
  How much better is it, do we get something like Stax SRM-727 mod > 717 > 727 ?
  I am also interested in any docs and pics to see how difficult it is.


----------



## spritzer

The mod simply extends the NFB line so that it includes the output stage and doesn't stop at the second to last stage.  When I did the mod I also raised the gain of the amp to match all the other Stax amps but I can't recommend that since it exposes a few gremlins.


----------



## Knijsterbek

I performed the "Spritzer mod", which consists of the re-location of 2 150K resistors in the feedback loops per channel, plus changing the values of 2 resistors per channel to fix the low gain issue.
  For the re-location of the 2 resistors in the feedback loops, the originals have to be removed.
  For the gain issue, I left the original 560 Ohm resistors (R5 and R6) in place and parallelled them with 330 Ohm pieces which makes 207 Ohm total (Spritzer replaced them with 200 Ohm pieces).
   
  I have not been able to make A-B comparisations, but I experience much more control after the modification of the feedback loop.  It is always hard to describe these changes to others, because as long as they are "heard" and not measured, they remain subjective.
   
  According to Spritzer, resistors should be metal film and rated 1/4 watt 350V.
   
  Here is a picture of one of the 2 identical plug in boards (one left, one right channel) after the mod.
   

   
   
  Spritzer, what about the gremlins?
  Should I lower the gain again?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Here are the pics of the new, improved tips:
   

   
   
   

   
   
   
   

   
   
   
   
   
  As you can see, a huge improvement in the shape and size of the opening and they are tight, very tight on the 001s, so they stay in with no headband.
   
   
  Now, off the SR-001 portable amp, the drivers are very bass heavy and the mids and highs are a little more recessed than when I use the stock tips and headband and really jam the drivers in my ear canals.  The tips do move the driver out of the ear a good 3mm which make the sound sig tilt to the dark side compared to my SR-Lambdas.  But I think the amp is part of the issue.  I plan to mod it and probably mod the tips just a tad more to bring them in closer.  Whenever I get my hands on a set of 003s or a 003 cable I can run them off an eXStatA and see how they really sound.


----------



## Germs

Is the original 727 flawed and it is better to buy a second hand 717, or the 717 has the same issue ?


----------



## padam

The 717 does not have the same issue.


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> [...] Whenever I get my hands on a set of 003s or a 003 cable I can run them off an eXStatA and see how they really sound. [...]


 
   
  I think you can find or create the tiny PCB acting as original edge connector in SRM-001 and then use SRE-725 extention cable (or just a small part of it ended with 5-pin plug) to make a nice adaptor instead of full cable replacement. That should be rather easy and headphones would still remain usable with portable amp.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





sim1 said:


> I think you can find or create the tiny PCB acting as original edge connector in SRM-001 and then use SRE-725 extention cable (or just a small part of it ended with 5-pin plug) to make a nice adaptor instead of full cable replacement. That should be rather easy and headphones would still remain usable with portable amp.


 
  Thanks.  The 001/003 cables are easily removed right at the drivers.  Nothing at all like their big brothers.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





boilermakerfan said:


> Here are the pics of the new, improved tips:


 


  What am I looking at here? How deep do they go? Are they molded for the pinnae as well?


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> What am I looking at here? How deep do they go? Are they molded for the pinnae as well?


 

 Uh, yeah.  How else would they stay in?  They were molded with the drivers inserted into my ears like the stock tips where on them with foam protecting the screed. 
   
  The top of the ear mold fits under the Helix at the Fossa triangularis.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





padam said:


> The 717 does not have the same issue.


 

  
  What's the issue with the SRM-727 in terms of sound quality? I read here about the mod, but what's the impact on the sound?
   
  The 727 without the mod sounds fine to me with the SR-007, so I'm curious about what the problem is that I haven't noticed so far.
   
  The SRM-007ta (unlike the SRM-727) doesn't drive the SR-007 particularly well - there's a noticeable lack of control in the bass (flabby bass) on some music, and there's a slight lack of dynamics, although it isn't nearly as bad as you would think by reading comments here...
   
  Anyway, what's wrong with the 727 from a sound (not amp design) perspective?


----------



## padam

It was been discussed several times before, the 727 uses no feedback in the output stage so it does have a different sound which some might or might not like.
   
Audiod wrote a direct comparison a while ago


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





padam said:


> It was been discussed several times before, the 727 uses no feedback in the output stage so it does have a different sound which some might or might not like.
> 
> Audiod wrote a direct comparison a while ago


 


 What do you mean by "different sound"? Different from what?
   
  The comments by audiod don't match my experience at all. He says that "The 727 sounds lifeless on the O2's and never really opens up". Huh? There's nothing "lifeless" about it...
   
  I have a KGSS and a 727 which I compared using my SR-007 mk1. When both are warmed up, they sounds very similar. I find that the KGSS is slightly better, but the improvement in sound is very marginal.
   
  Like I said, the 007ta is noticeably less good, although not horrible by any means, but the 727 is pretty equivalent to the KGSS in my experience.


----------



## Teejaay

anyone know where to buy o2 pads black at a good price.


----------



## cascode

Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> Here is a picture of one of the 2 identical plug in boards (one left, one right channel) after the mod.


 
   
  Thanks for posting the photo - that makes it very clear. It's actually easier than I'd imagined - and easy to remove, so worth the experiment regardless.
   
  Is this mod particularly recommended when the amp is used with SR-007 headphones?  Most of the posts I've read have been from people using it in that combonation.  Would those who have heard it also recommended the mod if the amp is partnered with lambda headphones?


----------



## Knijsterbek

I have no Lambda pro headphones, but with Sigma pro the amp sounds fine to me.
   
  I would like to know about the gremlins of the gain mod as Spritzer mentioned.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> What do you mean by "different sound"? Different from what?
> 
> The comments by audiod don't match my experience at all. He says that "The 727 sounds lifeless on the O2's and never really opens up". Huh? There's nothing "lifeless" about it...
> 
> ...


 

 I meant the 727 is obviously different from the 717 and as I wrote there is nothing wrong if you like the 727 sound, some others like it as well but Spritzer does not. I might get one 727 later on to see if the mod makes a substantial difference and I could compare it with my friend's 717 as well.


----------



## Sim1

Has anyone here tried to drive Stax amps from good preamp instead of doing any mods?
  This way you can feed it with higher input than DACs/CDPs normally do. No need to increase gain or feedback loop. Based on my experience with 2 headamps (for stats and normal) it can really wake up the amp and push its performance it to the limits of output stage.


----------



## K3cT

I tried driving Lambdas with Gainclone before using SRD-7 Pro and even a measly SRM-1/MK2 beats that combo anytime. The lack of control is noticeable with the transformers.


----------



## cascode

Are Stax valve amplifiers self-biasing, or is occasional adjustment required? (and when replacing valves).  If so, is it an easy procedure - I've had valve speaker amps in the past that were tedious to bias.


----------



## svyr

>and when replacing valves

ummm, I'd say definitely required to re-bias after that (and there are posts about it http://www.head-fi.org/search.php?search=rebias+t1 ). 

Not sure about regular re-biasing, I'll let someone else fill-in


----------



## spritzer

The main issue with the 727 is that it simply isn't linear and clearly coloring the sound.  This design would have made a lot more sense with much higher bias running through the output stage but as Stax are so keen to point out, that means more weight, more components and thus much higher cost.  The simplest solution is to just extend the feedback line all around the amp and it behaves like a high end amp should. 
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> Spritzer, what about the gremlins?
> Should I lower the gain again?


 

 There were some noise issues that cropped up.  These are an issue with all of the Stax amps given the crappy PCB's they use so a change in the compensation caps would have been needed.  I never had the time to fully look into that though.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The main issue with the 727 is that it simply isn't linear and clearly coloring the sound.


 

 Thanks, but in what way does it color the sound?
   
  I find that there is indeed a slight difference in sound between the 727 and KGSS (I don't have the 717) when driving the SR-007 mk1, but the difference is negligible. From my personal perspective, it's not something that's worth worrying about or that I would bother trying to "fix".
   
  The SRM-007ta with the SR-007 is a different story... The flabby bass is a bothersome problem with that combination. On the other hand, I find that the 007ta drives the SR-507 fine, but the SR-507 is just not nearly as good as the SR-007.
   
  It will be interesting to see if the 007ta can drive the SR-009 well.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





cascode said:


> Are Stax valve amplifiers self-biasing, or is occasional adjustment required? (and when replacing valves).  If so, is it an easy procedure - I've had valve speaker amps in the past that were tedious to bias.


 

 With 1 tube per channel, adjustment of the balance between the tube sections is needed. With 2 tubes per channel, adjustment of the balance between the tubes is needed (sections are paralleled). The measurements can be made on the outside of the amp in the Stax socket between the + and - lead of the channel. Adjust for 0V DC. This can be hard because the balance pot is a single turn type and even a tiny rotation makes a huge difference. Clever design indeed.
  Also, DC offset has to be adjusted (offset pot). This is measured between the + lead and the ground clamp on the back of the amp.
  An occasional check (can be done from the outside) wont hurt, valves tend to drift, especialy new ones.
  Keep in mind that the power supply of these amps is not regulated, so fluctiations in mains voltage will effect your adjustments. For that reason, I feed these amps from a power regenerator which regenerates a true and clean sine of 230V (Europe) out of DC.
  
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The main issue with the 727 is that it simply isn't linear and clearly coloring the sound.  This design would have made a lot more sense with much higher bias running through the output stage but as Stax are so keen to point out, that means more weight, more components and thus much higher cost.  The simplest solution is to just extend the feedback line all around the amp and it behaves like a high end amp should.
> 
> 
> There were some noise issues that cropped up.  These are an issue with all of the Stax amps given the crappy PCB's they use so a change in the compensation caps would have been needed.  I never had the time to fully look into that though.


 

 I haven't noticed noise issues so far. Under what circumstances did (or will) they occur?
   
  Am I putting anything at risk if I keep using the amp with the gain modded?
   
  Which compensation caps do you mean (I'm not a tech expert, but i'm willing to investigate as I really like the sound of the modded amp)?
   
  Does anyone have the schematic for the 727? That would help.


----------



## spritzer

No damage from using the amp with higher gain and the noise was always there but pretty low down. 
   
  The schematic can be found on the other site and there are some mica caps scattered around the amp to stop stuff like this. 
  
  Quote: 





visualguy said:


> Thanks, but in what way does it color the sound?
> 
> I find that there is indeed a slight difference in sound between the 727 and KGSS (I don't have the 717) when driving the SR-007 mk1, but the difference is negligible. From my personal perspective, it's not something that's worth worrying about or that I would bother trying to "fix".
> 
> ...


 

 The sound is thicker, bass is exaggerated etc.  I'm surprised that you find so very little difference between the 727 and a KGSS as that it is quite obvious to me.  Once it was modded then it was much closer and I  was a bit tempted to sell my KGSS for the 727 since it is smaller.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The sound is thicker, bass is exaggerated etc.  I'm surprised that you find so very little difference between the 727 and a KGSS as that it is quite obvious to me.  Once it was modded then it was much closer and I  was a bit tempted to sell my KGSS for the 727 since it is smaller.


 

 Yes - I did notice what you're describing. However, it's noticeable only on some music, and even then it's not something that jumps at me - it's pretty subtle (unlike the case with the 007t).


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No damage from using the amp with higher gain and the noise was always there but pretty low down.
> 
> The schematic can be found on the other site and there are some mica caps scattered around the amp to stop stuff like this.


 

 Thanks. I will keep listening for noise.
   
   
  Quote:


visualguy said:


> Yes - I did notice what you're describing. However, it's noticeable only on some music, and even then it's not something that jumps at me - it's pretty subtle (unlike the case with the 007t).


 
   
  Although I don't have a KGSS to compare and I cannot switch back to the unmodded 727, I did experience quite an improvement in sound quality after the mod. Much more control. Especially in the bass/upper bass this was clear to me in just a few seconds.
  Hard to describe in English as a non-native speaker, but it sounded a bit "overblown" to me befor the mod.


----------



## Robot Metal

I have a question: Sound quality-wise, is the KGSS a good match for headphones that aren't the Omega2? The ESP950 and Lambda phones mainly. I'll admit that I kinda remember reading somewhere years ago that the ESP950 wasn't a good match, but I can't seem to find that post anymore so I don't know for sure. (I'm curious to hear the ESP950.)


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> Although I don't have a KGSS to compare and I cannot switch back to the unmodded 727, I did experience quite an improvement in sound quality after the mod. Much more control. Especially in the bass/upper bass this was clear to me in just a few seconds.
> Hard to describe in English as a non-native speaker, but it sounded a bit "overblown" to me befor the mod.


 

 I know what you mean, and I agree with you that the 727 doesn't do the bass completely right - it sounds slightly bloated. I haven't noticed any problems with the mids and highs. The bass problem, although noticeable in some music, doesn't bother me enough to perform the mod - it's really minor to my ears.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There were some noise issues that cropped up.  These are an issue with all of the Stax amps given the crappy PCB's they use so a change in the compensation caps would have been needed.  I never had the time to fully look into that though.


 

 When you say "noise issues that cropped up," do you mean... the noise is noticeable in all Stax amps, or just after the mods are completed?
   
  What's the nature of the noise? 
   
  I didn't notice a lot of noise in the 007t II I had - though there might have been some at high POT levels with the 507's - just not at listening levels.


----------



## Don Quichotte

There is noise in my 313 if not grounded, otherwise it is extremely quiet. I can turn the volume knob to the max (without signal of course) and I can't hear anything at all.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





don quichotte said:


> There is noise in my 313 if not grounded, otherwise it is extremely quiet. I can turn the volume knob to the max (without signal of course) and I can't hear anything at all.


 

 You mean grounded via a dedicated ground wire connected to the ground terminal on the back panel? 
   
  If so, how should that ground wire be connected (to what)?
   
  I guess this would work... if, the electrical wiring ground is wired correctly:
   
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/141478-ground-vintage-amp.html


----------



## spritzer

It's been well established already that I'm rather picky so the difference may appear small to some.  Ditto on the SR-007 Mk1 vs Mk2, some like both of them but I can't stand the latter hence my mods. 
   
  The KGSS works well with any headphone you use it with.  It is designed to be as close to wire with gain as is possible with the parts available at the time and the price point so it can be ruthlessly revealing.  That said it sounds lovely with the SR-Omega and SR-404 I've been using today. 
  
  Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> When you say "noise issues that cropped up," do you mean... the noise is noticeable in all Stax amps, or just after the mods are completed?
> 
> What's the nature of the noise?
> 
> I didn't notice a lot of noise in the 007t II I had - though there might have been some at high POT levels with the 507's - just not at listening levels.


 

 The noise is gain related and that's why you need to readjust the circuit once it has been tampered with.  Most Stax amps should be 100% silent and any noise you hear is probably from the source or the system ground being contaminated by something.


----------



## yale.reinstein

Hey Stax thread,
   
  Been out of the loop for ages, just been enjoying life listening to my Lambda Pros!
   
  But the day has come -- the left driver cable seems to have developed a slight intermittence. I noticed only recently when I slouched in my chair lazily and dropped my head. I love the Lamba Pros so much more than my SR-202s, but I'm not going to let them dictate my posture. I don't negotiate with intermittent cables. Even though they seem to have a sticky / potentially ripped (?) dust filter they sing, and I wouldn't mind putting some money into them to replace the cable and maybe the cloth band (the hard plastic band is holding up nicely). Anyway I guess I could just live with it, but this is really just delaying the inevitable.
   
  Is there any place / anyone I can send these to, or am I just crap out of luck? I bought them used so I'm not even sure if sending them to Japan / Yama's is an option? How much should / would this cost me?
   
  There is somebody I can send these to you say!? Buy a new old pair? Buy a new new pair? Cryogenic freezing / boxing in the hope future generations will have the technology? Deal with it for now and start saving for something nicer? Learn to repair it myself? Sell my car, T1S and Lambdas to get some O2 on and an amp to match / start biking to work?
   
  Lots of love - keep rockin' those Stax,
   
  Yale
   
  p.s. I'm all thumbs
  p.s.s. would prefer not selling my car, it's cold here in winter


----------



## Sundance

Hi Yale. You may try contacting Yama authorized service center in Gardena, USA. However, their labor and inventory are very expensive. Alternatively, you may seek out a donor Lamba but that would still leave the repair to you. It may be more affordable to rebuy the headset.


----------



## svyr

yale.reinstein said:


> Hey Stax thread,
> 
> Been out of the loop for ages, just been enjoying life listening to my Lambda Pros!
> 
> ...




I agree with Sundance - new pair... Off repair is way too pricey compared to buying a used 202 or another lambda pro (pretty sure 202 doesn't sound much like Lambda Pros though). Not sure about donor pairs. I suppose that'd work too, post a WTB thread. If the for-parts pair is dead except for the parts you need (would be the cheapest), but if you find out you need say new drivers (matched pair?) then things could get hairy.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hi Sim1,  I use one of my McIntosh MX135s as a preamp with either of my Stax SRM 007t or SRM 007Ta amps.  I think the MX 135 gives me more possiblities and options than the regular pre amp section of my SRMs.  You can pick up any McIntosh Preamp used on Audiogon.


----------



## dukja

I would appreciate some suggestion on mating Stax headphone with amping gear.  After reading more about Stax, I guessed either sr-407 or 507 may suit my needs (to be at the same tier with Beyer T1).  But I am still lost in terms of amping.  Certainly SRM-600 (balanced tube) will be optimal. The price from Price Japan was about $1700 USD shipped (I am not sure if their 5% fee is included).  Is there better place to get it?
   
  And if I want save some money on amp and choose energizer route (such as srd-7/6) to work with my CSP2+ (preamp) and NAD power amp, will I miss the point to buy 4/507 (not worth it)?
   
  And how about SRM-1/mk2?
   
  Or should I just buy a 2070 and I won't miss much?  My goal of getting Stax is trying to experience the ultra clear transparent mid that ppl was boasting about.
   
  Thanks a lot for the help!


----------



## Robot Metal

Ah, thanks for the KGSS answer.
   
  I'm recapping an SRM-1 Mk1, but I'm not sure which brand to use. I heard a lot of good things about Black Gates, so I went with them. I'm willing to pay a lot to upgrade it (and I know Black Gates are rare), but I could use some input as to whether or not I'm getting ripped off.
   
  This would replace everything except for the output caps, which I'll get later:


----------



## HONEYBOY

Quote: 





yale.reinstein said:


> I love the Lamba Pros so much more than my SR-202s, but I'm not going to let them dictate my posture. I don't negotiate with intermittent cables. Even though they seem to have a sticky / potentially ripped (?) dust filter they sing, and I wouldn't mind putting some money into them to replace the cable and maybe the cloth band (the hard plastic band is holding up nicely). Anyway I guess I could just live with it, but this is really just delaying the inevitable.


 
  yale.reinstein, I hope you don't mind me asking, but might you be able to describe the sound elements or qualities of the Lamda Pro that make you prefer them over the SR 202s?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





robot metal said:


> Ah, thanks for the KGSS answer.
> 
> I'm recapping an SRM-1 Mk1, but I'm not sure which brand to use. I heard a lot of good things about Black Gates, so I went with them. I'm willing to pay a lot to upgrade it (and I know Black Gates are rare), but I could use some input as to whether or not I'm getting ripped off.
> 
> This would replace everything except for the output caps, which I'll get later:


 

 Nr. 1 priority is that the caps will fit.  Personally I'd not waste money on BlackGates and rather get some nice Panasonic's for a lot less.


----------



## Robot Metal

Ah. I'll ditch the Black Gates. I did some research and I think I'm going to go with the Panasonic FM line.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> You mean grounded via a dedicated ground wire connected to the ground terminal on the back panel?
> 
> If so, how should that ground wire be connected (to what)?
> 
> ...


 
  Yes, but that's just in case your electric outlet has no real grounding. I lived for a while in a house where only 1 electric outlet - or maybe 2, I don't remember - had the 2 grounding metal parts really connected to ground / earth. So I had to use the ground terminal from the amp back panel. As a matter of fact, I connected it to the heater (is this the word? it's a system of pipes with hot water running through, thus warming up the room - sorry for my English) as the metal pipes were going into the ground (soil) eventually. All the electric outlets have ground where I live now so no other grounding is necessary anymore.
  Hope I made myself clear, I'm very very tired and have English difficulties atm.


----------



## lyramax

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I would appreciate some suggestion on mating Stax headphone with amping gear.  After reading more about Stax, I guessed either sr-407 or 507 may suit my needs (to be at the same tier with Beyer T1).  But I am still lost in terms of amping.  Certainly SRM-600 (balanced tube) will be optimal. The price from Price Japan was about $1700 USD shipped (I am not sure if their 5% fee is included).  Is there better place to get it?
> 
> And if I want save some money on amp and choose energizer route (such as srd-7/6) to work with my CSP2+ (preamp) and NAD power amp, will I miss the point to buy 4/507 (not worth it)?
> 
> ...


 

 FWIW I recently acquired a 507 & 006tS rig and I absolutely love it. Its sound quality and imaging rival those of my speaker rig.


----------



## maruzen

Quote: 





yale.reinstein said:


> Hey Stax thread,
> 
> Been out of the loop for ages, just been enjoying life listening to my Lambda Pros!
> 
> ...


 


   

 I know what you mean  I was an avid headphone enthusiast for the last two years, the reason being having to stay in a dorm during my residency training in General Surgery, and the only way to be able to truly enjoy that wonderful audio is to have great headphone equipment. And the best stuff that I did manage to get over that period was the Lambda Pro with the SRM-1/MK-2 which totally beat anything that I had at that time, even if the bass guitar did seem to sound like a lead guitar in the way that it lacked slam. But since residency already ended and I ended up getting an apartment of my own, I got a pair of powered monitors to replace my headphone setup due to the freedom of being able to make a ruckus in my own place without having to worry about disturbing anyone else. Right now I just set up the Stax again because I wanted to test out a recently acquired Buffalo II DAC, and man, it still is a great audiophile combination. I'm enjoying the Stax Lambda Pros again after all these months and I thought that if these things were to break on me I would get myself another pair, just for the amazing sound they can dish out for the price. Especially at used prices they are a steal!


----------



## cjfrbw

Talk about bargain, I just got a SR-3 new that was rebuilt in 1986 with SR-5n drivers and SRD 5 energizer for $92 delivered. I soldered the leads of the SRD 5 to a 1/4 inch headphone banana plug to use with the Manley 300b preamp headphone output. The Manley puts out about 1 watt 10 volt through the 100 ohm headphone output and is overkill with the SRD 5, sounds quite stunning. The seller said there was an imbalance, but that seems to have resolved by leaving things on over night.
   
  The sound of the SR-3/5n is incredible. Scales perfectly with dynamics.  I think it may overall better to listen to than a normal bias Lambda I got recently.  The Lambda is a little more diffuse and romantic, albeit with a somewhat slammier bass, but doesn't seem to have the detail and the perfect dynamic scaling of the SR-3/5n unit.
   
  I like the metal/leather/bakelite construction of the SR-3/tn, too, hard to beat up, I am afraid the Lambda plastic might break at any moment.
   
  This one was a real surprise. At a second location, I run both with a SRD 7SB and a Hogan 300b amp with equally impressive results.
   
  I was thinking of an 02 when they start to come up for sale when people upgrade to the 009, but I am wondering if it is worth the trouble and expense.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I would appreciate some suggestion on mating Stax headphone with amping gear.  After reading more about Stax, I guessed either sr-407 or 507 may suit my needs (to be at the same tier with Beyer T1).  But I am still lost in terms of amping.  Certainly SRM-600 (balanced tube) will be optimal. The price from Price Japan was about $1700 USD shipped (I am not sure if their 5% fee is included).  Is there better place to get it?
> 
> And if I want save some money on amp and choose energizer route (such as srd-7/6) to work with my CSP2+ (preamp) and NAD power amp, will I miss the point to buy 4/507 (not worth it)?
> 
> ...


 

 Always good to have an SRM1Mk2.  I haven't tried them with a 507 or 407 but they work well with most everything I have including the 404, Sigma/404 and are even usable with the 007A although not really recommended.  Plus they have a low bias socket for use with a classic old Stax phone.


----------



## svyr

edstrelow said:


> Always good to have an SRM1Mk2.  I haven't tried them with a 507 or 407 but they work well with most everything I have including the 404, Sigma/404 and are even usable with the 007A although not really recommended.  Plus they have a low bias socket for use with a classic old Stax phone.




507 works fine with SRM-1/mk2 (even great I'd say... Especially if you change the power caps to not mummyfied ones  ) . I was using it until I upgraded to Transistoramp-v3. (I probably would've stayed with it too, since I ordered the latter when I was fixing the SRM-1/mk2 and things weren't looking up... just in case ). The only thing was it was a bit sensitive to ground loop issues


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





			
				svyr said:
			
		

> > 507 works fine with SRM-1/mk2 (even great I'd say... Especially if you change the power caps to not mummyfied ones
> >
> >
> >
> > ...


 

 I'm intrigued by your Transistoramp-v3.  Is it DIY only or is it now in production?


----------



## svyr

wilcox said:


> I'm intrigued by your Transistoramp-v3.  Is it DIY only or is it now in production?




Mine's similar to http://peter.family-rill.de/Blog/Neuer-Stax-TransistorAmp (same case,front panel, knob and boards, less inputs and outputs) both build by Peter Rill (you've linked to his blog just above and there's an email there to contact him as well. It looks like his builds are well known and respected among the EU and in particular German head-fi-ish forums). You can see from the pics, the quality with the prettier cases is indistinguishable from commercial builds (even with the other case, the board layout and wiring are evidently well done). You also have choice of inputs and outputs (e.g. there's a thread to one of his HybridAmp builds where there's a HE60 input, Jade input, Pro, Normal and I think Koss input (with the corresponding bias voltages)... (as far I know, also a choice of cases, sockets, front panel/engraving, etc)

The design is DIY and open http://www.high-amp.de/html/transistor_eng.html ... The +/-400 Volt PSU version is supposed to be good. (was told it's better than Exstata/stands up to KGSS?) 

Peter has also posted the boards http://peter.family-rill.de/Projekte/Stax-HybridAmp-TransistorAmp/Downloads (I think he may have redesigned the layout and/or converted the jpegs to the board layout app format + maybe added the schematics for input switching and the PSUs)... 


I've been meaning to post a review of my Transistor-amp V3, but unfortunately for me, my D100 died at the time and I had to return it for a replacement, MD11 is worthless as a line-out DAC and Audio-gd took months to actually make my new DAC (will have it next Mon). Haven't had any problems with it whatsoever though, and it wiped the floor with my SRM-1/mk2.


----------



## TIMITS

A Transistoramp is currently in the http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/545052/fs-hybridamp-v2-0-electrostat-amp-eu For Sale section but the seller has listed it as available to EU buyers only. At the time I was interested and searched the archives for information and saw that Svyr had one - he was kind enough to answer a pm I sent about the amp so it is good to see the information listed above.  I decided to find a simple solution while saving for a KGSS and this week have purchased a refurbished SRM-1/mk 2 pp.  Unfortunately it looks like the KGSS has now been discontinued so information on commercially available Stax amp alternatives is of great interest to me and I suspect many others.  
   
  There is also another German website with references to electrostatic headphone amps and it also has a transistoramp and also something called a RTR400 - does anyone know anything about these also?  http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html


----------



## svyr

timits said:


> A Transistoramp is currently in the http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/545052/fs-hybridamp-v2-0-electrostat-amp-eu For Sale section but the seller has listed it as available to EU buyers only. At the time I was interested and searched the archives for information and saw that Svyr had one - he was kind enough to answer a pm I sent about the amp so it is good to see the information listed above.  I decided to find a simple solution while saving for a KGSS and this week have purchased a refurbished SRM-1/mk 2 pp.  Unfortunately it looks like the KGSS has now been discontinued so information on commercially available Stax amp alternatives is of great interest to me and I suspect many others.
> 
> There is also another German website with references to electrostatic headphone amps and it also has a transistoramp and also something called a RTR400 - does anyone know anything about these also?  http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html




The one FS is the Hybridamp. (tuuubes and transistors). The post above also refers to the highamp de site, just scroll down a bit and the English info is there.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Sorry to interrupt or change the topic of this thread but I was curious if you can tell me what power cords you are using for the Stax SRM 007t and SRM007ta amplifiers?  Also are you plugging them directly into the electrical wall outlet or are they going into a surge or PPP type device?  What results do you find when if you are using a non stax stock power cord?  Thanks  Scottsmrnyc


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Hi Sim1,  I use one of my McIntosh MX135s as a preamp with either of my Stax SRM 007t or SRM 007Ta amps. [...]


 

 The McIntosh MX135 seems to be a real beast . Well, I use my SRM-007t with nice vingtage Yamaha C-4 when I want to listen to some rock. Tone control and high output level from preamp make O2 sound from 007t really juicy and with right impact even for heavy guitar music.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Hello everyone!
   
  I'm sorry for going a bit off topic, but I didn't really want to start a new thread on this since I'm not going to buy anything at this moment.
   
  I recently got an O2 MKI and an eXStatA (built by Sachu), and I think they sound fantastic. My source in my bedroom is a DacMagic, and as I run a second headphone rig as well I reckoned my first upgrade path should be replacing the DAC which is not really on par with the headphones. I might have a chance of listening to a 727A in July and that might change things, but right now, I'm considering a source replacement.
   
  My budget is of around 1.300 dollars, and I don't mind buying used. Milos suggested vintage R2R as well as Parasound and Assemblage units. I prefer an overall neutral, balanced and refined sound. I tend to prefer a slightly warmer signature, but at the same time clarity and transparency is very important. What other options do you guys think I should look for?
   
  Thanks in advance!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I recently got an O2 MKI and an eXStatA (built by Sachu), and I think they sound fantastic. My source in my bedroom is a DacMagic, and as I run a second headphone rig as well I reckoned my first upgrade path should be replacing the DAC which is not really on par with the headphones. I might have a chance of listening to a 727A in July and that might change things, but right now, I'm considering a source replacement.
> 
> My budget is of around 1.300 dollars, and I don't mind buying used. Milos suggested vintage R2R as well as Parasound and Assemblage units. I prefer an overall neutral, balanced and refined sound. I tend to prefer a slightly warmer signature, but at the same time clarity and transparency is very important. What other options do you guys think I should look for?


 

 The DacMagic really isn't too great, and it's a good idea to upgrade. $1300 can go pretty far in the used market, and that would probably be my suggestion. One option would be to do what I just did and buy an EAD DSP-7000 Mk 3. It's a CS8412/dual PCM63P-K based 20-bit R2R solid state DAC, with some EAD jitter reduction special sauce thrown in. The Mk 3 version added the PMD100, and is definitely the one to get. It sells for around $450 or so, and even in original factory condition it will mop the floor with the DacMagic. Rather than leave it like that though, take another $500-800, send it to Noble Electronics (run by former EAD engineers) and have all of the upgrades done.
   
  You should also consider having any other 10+ year old R2R DAC re-capped if you want to go that route. Another solid vintage DAC is the Theta Gen V, which you can typically find for $1200-1300. The Gen Va usually runs closer to $1500, but owners may be willing to discount a bit. If you want something more modern, the Bel Canto DAC-3 is regularly available in your price range. Some new options would be the W4S, Burson, and Anedio.
   
  What's your transport? That could also be due for an upgrade.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Sorry to interrupt or change the topic of this thread but I was curious if you can tell me what power cords you are using for the Stax SRM 007t and SRM007ta amplifiers?  Also are you plugging them directly into the electrical wall outlet or are they going into a surge or PPP type device?  What results do you find when if you are using a non stax stock power cord?  Thanks  Scottsmrnyc


 

 I consider mains supply as very important as it all starts with electrons coming "out of the wall" (unless battery powered...).
  For my main system:
  - Dedicated audio group with audio grade fuse
  - Shielded mains cable between the "fuse box" and the the wall outlet
  - Isolator transformer
  - Audio grade power strip/box with 8 x Schuko (Europe)
  - Power regenerators for source, pre-amp and headphone amp (turns AC mains into DC and creates (by analog way) a clean and stable 230V sine wave out of it . These are a kind of PPP devices, but of a high quality albeit lower power max so not suited for power amps.
  - Audio components (I have Stax SRM-T1, Stax SRM-1/Mk2 P.P. and Stax SRM-727II headphone amps)
   
  All connections made with thick and highly shielded mains cables, not all the same types.
  I mainly use the Kemp Power Reference SOTA. The SOTA has 9 strands inside, has 11 shieldings and has shielded Furutech connectors. In my setup, they make a big difference with the same cable with non shielded connectors.

 What is the difference with the standard Stax power cords? Always hard to describe as it is subjective, but to me it's like the sound opens up, becomes more live (or alive). No harshness or bloom but transparent and in control, not mechanical but fluid, etc...I get pulled into the music while listening.
  Returning to the standard power cords is like the curtains close...
  As I said, this is highly subjective and can differ from one setup to another. In the ideal situation, your set is already "in balance" so you don't need certain tweaks to "alter" the sound (like some say of silver that it "adds" something that certain setups can benefit from).
  Best is to try for yourself. A good dealer will always be willing to lend a few power cords for experimenting.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The DacMagic really isn't too great, and it's a good idea to upgrade. $1300 can go pretty far in the used market, and that would probably be my suggestion. One option would be to do what I just did and buy an EAD DSP-7000 Mk 3. It's a CS8412/dual PCM63P-K based 20-bit R2R solid state DAC, with some EAD jitter reduction special sauce thrown in. The Mk 3 version added the PMD100, and is definitely the one to get. It sells for around $450 or so, and even in original factory condition it will mop the floor with the DacMagic. Rather than leave it like that though, take another $500-800, send it to Noble Electronics (run by former EAD engineers) and have all of the upgrades done.
> 
> You should also consider having any other 10+ year old R2R DAC re-capped if you want to go that route. Another solid vintage DAC is the Theta Gen V, which you can typically find for $1200-1300. The Gen Va usually runs closer to $1500, but owners may be willing to discount a bit. If you want something more modern, the Bel Canto DAC-3 is regularly available in your price range. Some new options would be the W4S, Burson, and Anedio.
> 
> What's your transport? That could also be due for an upgrade.


 


  Thank you so much for your suggestions!! One thing I'm wondering though, do you think those vintage DACs with all the possible upgrades and maintenance done are better than what can be found new today for the same sort of money?
   
  I'm currently using an iMac as a transport, it feeds the DacMagic via optical out. The vast majority of my music is in digital format, so upgrading the iMac unfortunately isn't an option now... I do use a PS3 as a CD transport when I want to listen to CDs, though!


----------



## n3rdling

I'd just recap the unit and do the opamp upgrade for the EAD stuff.  The rest of those mods don't seem very important unless you want balanced.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> Thank you so much for your suggestions!! One thing I'm wondering though, do you think those vintage DACs with all the possible upgrades and maintenance done are better than what can be found new today for the same sort of money?
> 
> I'm currently using an iMac as a transport, it feeds the DacMagic via optical out. The vast majority of my music is in digital format, so upgrading the iMac unfortunately isn't an option now... I do use a PS3 as a CD transport when I want to listen to CDs, though!


 

 Depends on which vintage DAC you're talking about, but I think in most cases yes, they can outperform new DACs for similar money. Check out Computerparts' vintage DAC thread for much more in depth opinions on some of the great classic DACs. 
   
  Rather than upgrade your iMac, consider adding an ART Legato USB > S/Pdif converter. That should provide a huge improvement over toslink straight from the computer, and it should handily beat the PS3's digital out as well. It only does 16/44, but with a vintage R2R DAC that's all you can use anyway.


----------



## dukja

I have a chance to get this spritzer restored srm-1 mkII PP.  According to the description, it seems to be no problem to be re-wired to 110V for US voltage.  I have PM spritzer but got not reply yet.  Can anyone here familiar with it may confirm that there is no problem to do so?  And maybe kindly point me to the links (i remember reading it somewhere in the past) to re-wire it for 110V.
   
  Thanks a lot!


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> I have a chance to get this spritzer restored srm-1 mkII PP.  According to the description, it seems to be no problem to be re-wired to 110V for US voltage.  I have PM spritzer but got not reply yet.  Can anyone here familiar with it may confirm that there is no problem to do so?  And maybe kindly point me to the links (i remember reading it somewhere in the past) to re-wire it for 110V.
> 
> Thanks a lot!




follow the yellow brick rd. http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/550284/stax-srm-1-mkii-ver-c-100v-220v-voltage-change-question 

I say - go for the buy. He added the mini-xlr and put in new caps, transistors, vol pot...


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I have a chance to get this spritzer restored srm-1 mkII PP.  According to the description, it seems to be no problem to be re-wired to 110V for US voltage.  I have PM spritzer but got not reply yet.  Can anyone here familiar with it may confirm that there is no problem to do so?  And maybe kindly point me to the links (i remember reading it somewhere in the past) to re-wire it for 110V.
> 
> Thanks a lot!


 

 This is what I found on the net:
   
  [size=10pt]Here is the correct wiring:[/size]
  [size=10pt]100v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the  ACplug+Brown+Green

 117v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple

 240v:
 Blue+White wire from the AC plug
 Purple+Gray[/size]
  [size=10pt]Should work for all Stax amps. [/size]
   
  Pic of the wiring:
   
   
  
  Good luck.


----------



## dukja

Thank you all who helped and provided the links.   I hope that Stax did not cut the wires of the transformer in SRM-1 (series-C) so the conversion should be straightforward.  Is it the case?
   
  And it seems that I need to re-bias and balance the amp after converting it to 110V, right?  (Oops! getting more complicated...)
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> This is what I found on the net:
> 
> [size=10pt]Here is the correct wiring:[/size]
> 
> ...


----------



## Knijsterbek

Mine is C4245 and has all the wires.
  Re-bias is always a good idea. Adjust balance and offset for 0V DC. Repeat measurements a few times.
  Remember that the power supply is not regulated, so your measurements will change as mains voltage changes.
  Also, the bias fluctuates heavy with the actual temperature of the amp. Let it heat up until it is stable and measure before/while you lift the top off. In my experience, the moment you remove the top, especially offset starts to drift.
  I try to monitor how much it has drifted until I actually turn the pot and try to correct for that, so that when the top is on and the temp is stable again, the setting stabilizes around zero.
  After that, start enjoying!


----------



## dukja

Just finish reading all links.  One more question about rewiring the transformer to 110V.  So I just need to solder
   
  Gray to White wire
  White wire from AC to Blue and Purple
   
  And I should NOT need to solder those wire to the "back panel" with 2x6 holes, right?
  (I imagine those were for the user's convenience to change voltage but is not disabled by Stax.)
   
  Thanks for the confirmation.
   
  Is there any way to test before firing up and potentially damage anything?


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Just finish reading all links.  One more question about rewiring the transformer to 110V.  So I just need to solder
> 
> Gray to White wire
> White wire from AC to Blue and Purple
> ...


 

 Wiring is correct.
  The back panel was meant for the versions that were shipped with a plug to change the mains voltage in a more comfortable way... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
  If you don't use the plug, you don't need the back panel.
  But: be carefull and convince yourself that the connections you make by pulling wires off the back panel and soldering them together are properly isolated!
   
   
  Quote: 





dukja said:


> Is there any way to test before firing up and potentially damage anything?


 

 With a variac, you could slowly turm up the mains voltage and check secondary voltages.


----------



## dukja

Thanks for the confirmation.
   
  And I assumed a signal generator may be used to generate 60Hz a few volt signal for input and check the secondary side (the RED wire in your diagram?).  What is the voltage should I expect (step-up or -down ratio)?
   
  Thanks!
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> With a variac, you could slowly turm up the mains voltage and check secondary voltages.


 
  Originally Posted by *Knijsterbek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif


>


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I'd just recap the unit and do the opamp upgrade for the EAD stuff.  The rest of those mods don't seem very important unless you want balanced.


 


   


  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Depends on which vintage DAC you're talking about, but I think in most cases yes, they can outperform new DACs for similar money. Check out Computerparts' vintage DAC thread for much more in depth opinions on some of the great classic DACs.
> 
> Rather than upgrade your iMac, consider adding an ART Legato USB > S/Pdif converter. That should provide a huge improvement over toslink straight from the computer, and it should handily beat the PS3's digital out as well. It only does 16/44, but with a vintage R2R DAC that's all you can use anyway.


 

 Thanks again guys, I really appreciate your help!


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Thanks for the confirmation.
> 
> And I assumed a signal generator may be used to generate 60Hz a few volt signal for input and check the secondary side (the RED wire in your diagram?).  What is the voltage should I expect (step-up or -down ratio)?
> 
> Thanks!


 


 In mine, which is wired for 240V, with AC mains of 230V, I measure 39V between the red secundairies and 480V between the yellow secundaries.
  So red would be step down and yellow would be step up.
   
  Here is the schematic whee you can also see the details of the transformer wiring.


----------



## dukja

Thanks a lot for the schematic.  Is there pdf or image file floating around?  It is nice that you even have a paper copy but it is a little bit hard to read the details...
   
  And the transformer shown on the new image has different secondary?
   
  I think that I am ready to get the amp.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> In mine, which is wired for 240V, with AC mains of 230V, I measure 39V between the red secundairies and 480V between the yellow secundaries.
> So red would be step down and yellow would be step up.
> 
> Here is the schematic whee you can also see the details of the transformer wiring.


----------



## Knijsterbek

This is all I got. It was once posted by Spritzer, so we would have to thank him....
  If you save the jpeg and open it in a viewer it is a rather large file and easy to read.
   
  The previous transformer wiring pic is from a valve amp (6.3V heater supply secundairy).
  Bottom line: primary wiring is the same, secondairy can vary between different amps.
   
  Good luck with the amp. I still have to find the time to modify mine to balanced...


----------



## dukja

Got it.  The original file is much nicer.  It is precious.  Thanks to spritzer!
   
  You probably read the info about modding it to balance at other place.  The difficulty seem to get the 4-gang pot.  Or try alternative approach? 
   
  Thanks a lot for helping out during spritzer's absence.
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> This is all I got. It was once posted by Spritzer, so we would have to thank him....
> If you save the jpeg and open it in a viewer it is a rather large file and easy to read.
> 
> The previous transformer wiring pic is from a valve amp (6.3V heater supply secundairy).
> ...


----------



## shipsupt

Well, I didn't expect my first post to the "high-end" forum to be after a just over 300 dollar purchase.... but here I am. As luck would have it another Head-Fi member was struck with upgraditis which gave me the chance to pick up his SR-202/SRM 252A combo and give electrostatics a try. Don't let out the secret, but these sound great, especially considering the cost! I have to say that since they arrived I can't seem to get them off my head, I'm enjoying them that much. Last night I was just letting the tunes come randomly from iTunes, not cherry picking, and an Elvis Costello song cued up (I Want You) and I had one of those moments in this hobby where you just get floored. It was that good.

I guess the down side is that I've entered another arena where the slope can get quite slippery.... I'm sure my Stax journey does not end here, but for now I'm really glad that I took a chance to see what all the hype is about.

That's it really, just wanted to post up because I'm having fun enjoying music with some new kit, and let others know that entry into the high-end doesn't need to come with a huge price tag. Keep an eye out for these entry level deals, they really are worth a try.


----------



## livewire

Surprisingly good, arent they? You got a great deal. You are at slippery slope - tier #1.
   
  The slope looks like this: $500 - $1k - $2K - $4K - $11K - $30K<----ridiculous!!!
  You may leapfrog as your wallet sees fit.
   
  I'm currently at the third tier.
  I want to be at the fifth = BHSE + SR-009.
  Time to win the lottery or sell off a kid....


----------



## Hammerzeit

Dang! Only over $300!? That's a great deal. Livewire I'd go with the latter hahaha. Only one more month before I have enough for a deposit on the bhse with the rk50 1-2 years...to go...


----------



## livewire

Hey - it's only time and money.
  But then so much can happen during that waiting period,
  Stay the course, the rewards will be worth it!


----------



## dukja

I would like to check with you guys getting new Stax at US.   What is the place with better chance to get warranty service?   Price Japan seems to be good at delivery time.  I just read some post about that the channel imbalance may occur even with new pair.  Thanks for your input!
   
  Edit:  No one has ever needed warranty service?  Good to know that.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm sorry for going a bit off topic, but I didn't really want to start a new thread on this since I'm not going to buy anything at this moment.
> 
> ...


 
  Glad you are liking it dude..I am just not into headphones anymore else would've kept it. ANd I agree with you..the O2 DOES sound nice with the exstata.  AM curious to hear your thorughts comparing it to the 727.
   
  As for a source..I'd listen to Milos. Parasound and Assemblage units are biggest bang for the buck.
   
  If you can get a Reimyo DAP777 on the cheap go for it (on par with the assemblage DAC 2.7). Or a sonic frontiers SFD2mk2 or mk3 (VERY rare).
   
  Also, do yourself a favor and grab hold of these RCA cables..the best I have heard by a HUGE margin. I haven't yet tried them as digital interconnects which is what they were originally intended for and supposed to be superlative in that area.
   
  I have them as my speaker cables as well.
   
  I just paid for an Assemblage DAC 3.1 so i can free up the DAC 2.7 for headphone duty.
   
  In the rare event I find myself not wanting one of the Assemblage units, i'll let you know.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Hey Sachu!
   
  I'm definitely enjoying the combo! I can't say for now how it compares to a 727, but I really like what I'm hearing. There's going to be a meet soon here in Rio and I'll invite Erico, and I hope he can come and bring his 727 for us to compare it with the eXStatA. I'm not sure if it's an actual possibility, but I hope so!
   
  Thanks for the input regarding the DAC (and the interconnect!) as well, Sachu! As much as I'm interested in the Anedio, you guys are convincing me that vintage DACs are the way to go in my case. And if you do wish to sell one of your DACs, please please let me know!! There's finally someone with real interest in my integrated that's for sale, so I'm hoping I'll have the money to invest on the DAC soon. I'll wait for the meet to see if anything catches my fancy, but I think that's unlikely.
   
  Well, anyway, thanks for building a great sounding amp, Sachu!


----------



## vrln

Today I was doing some cleaning chores and found a super bright small led flashlight. I decided to try and see inside the SRM-600 without opening the chassis. It seems Stax are using alot of ELNA parts (caps/resistors) inside. Yes, quite a pointless reply


----------



## 3210

Do the SR007 and the SR003S also have the new SEP (super engineering plastic) membrane ?
  One post of Spritzer seems to indicate that for the 007 (...MK2.5...) since autumn 2010 (serial no 3xxxx)
  and www.stax.co.jp listed the SR003 under the 'new lambda series'.
  What about the thickness or weight, how much is it decreased with SEP ?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

As of today, I am a new member of the Stax thread and fellowship. I bought a very nice condition SR-30 and SRD-4 adapter from a fellow Head-Fi member, they arrived today, and I have already listened to them. Sure enough, they sound quite fine. This further wets my appetite for a Lambda series earspeaker, such as the Nova Signature, SR 407 or SR 507. Summer gets well up into triple digits around here, so I am also considering the SR 003, due to the seat factor with circumaural phones. Lots of reading ahead (this is a long thread)!


----------



## edstrelow

sachu said:


> Glad you are liking it dude..I am just not into headphones anymore else would've kept it. ANd I agree with you..the O2 DOES sound nice with the exstata.  AM curious to hear your thorughts comparing it to the 727.
> 
> As for a source..I'd listen to Milos. Parasound and Assemblage units are biggest bang for the buck.
> 
> ...


----------



## edstrelow

Something really strange is happening tonight with  my e-mail.  I was unable to enter any text in the above post or even edit the comment in.  I seem to have a bunch of problems since getting Explorer 9.
   
  So what I wanted to say was that the cable referenced above seems to be using Eichmann bullets (bad name I know) for connectors.  I have these is several cables myself and feel they add something to the sound.  Rather than a large ground surface they just use a small metal contact.


----------



## Hammerzeit

Kinda off topic, but I'll be attempting to buy an SR-252A system for a bit over $400, It will delay the bhse deposit by another 2 weeks, but it will be worth it.


----------



## livewire

*DEW EET!*
   
  Definitely on subject.
  It will provide that STAX fix on the cheap while you wait two years for your high end stat amp to be built.
  Plus you will also need time to save for those SR-009's.
   
  I love my 202's. Best money I have ever spent on headphones. And they didn't break the bank either.


----------



## livewire

I was joking about the "two years". But you never know....


----------



## Hammerzeit

Bought it! I already know what to expect thanks to my extensive listening time to your 202 rig during the meet haha. Just one more month the bhse deposit.


----------



## K3cT

202 is good, perhaps the only one with the right tonality between the 303 and 404. It's the perfect entry into the Stax world.


----------



## gilency

Meet my new Sigma/404's


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Meet my new Sigma/404's


 


  Did you start with a Sigma Pro?  Did you change both cable and drivers?  So what do you think of them?


----------



## ttnl

Hello, can someone please help me? I've just bought a used Lambda pro on head fi, but it has channel-imbalance problem. The left side is barely audible, while the right side is normal. I know that the SR1-MK2 amp's volume knob can be used for Left and Right separately. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I have tried to touch the pins and plug the cable back, but that does not help. I try to turn off and turn on the amp again to recharge the phone, but it does not help either. I have checked all the cables and connections, but everything seems normal. Thanks.


----------



## gilency

404 drivers installed by Mark from highendworkshop.co.uk. He said it was not an easy job. I did not change the cables.
I used the Sigma Pro instead of the normal bias form the conversion because I have found out I like the normal bias a lot, although the Sigma/404 is much better overall.
BTW, there is a Sigma Pro for sale at Agon for 2500.00 :eek:
That's insane!
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1310333832&/Stax-sigma-pro-Professional-MI


----------



## supertrichi

Hi there,
 I read that the stax SR 507 and 407 have the same transductor.
 I suppose they play at the same way.
 In your opinion the price difference have make sense?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





ttnl said:


> Hello, can someone please help me? I've just bought a used Lambda pro on head fi, but it has channel-imbalance problem. The left side is barely audible, while the right side is normal. I know that the SR1-MK2 amp's volume knob can be used for Left and Right separately. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I have tried to touch the pins and plug the cable back, but that does not help. I try to turn off and turn on the amp again to recharge the phone, but it does not help either. I have checked all the cables and connections, but everything seems normal. Thanks.


 


 What about the guy you bought it from? Did he disclose this problem? Yiu sure irs not the amp?  Have you looked at the connections in the earcup?.  My guess is a break there or a disconnected electrode.
   


  Quote: 





gilency said:


> 404 drivers installed by Mark from highendworkshop.co.uk. He said it was not an easy job. I did not change the cables.
> I used the Sigma Pro instead of the normal bias form the conversion because I have found out I like the normal bias a lot, although the Sigma/404 is much better overall.
> BTW, there is a Sigma Pro for sale at Agon for 2500.00
> 
> ...


 


 So I am assuming you like the the Sigma/404 better than both the pro and low bias models.
   
  If I had to keep only 2 Sigmas I might do what you did, but for most people the Sigma Pro is a better phone than the low bias Sigma.  The Sigma/404 is closer in sound to the Pro. The Sigma/404 is a bit more refined sounding and has better treble and bass. It scaled up well with the BHSE when I tried it at the LA Canjam.
   
  $2,500 for a Sigma Pro, even in mint condition seems a bit much.  Still they are getting harder to find all the time and someone with cash to burn might take them.  Recently one Headfier had to make his own Sigma earcups.  It's too bad Stax doesn't return to this design.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> So I am assuming you like the the Sigma/404 better than both the pro and low bias models.
> 
> If I had to keep only 2 Sigmas I might do what you did, but for most people the Sigma Pro is a better phone than the low bias Sigma.  The Sigma/404 is closer in sound to the Pro. The Sigma/404 is a bit more refined sounding and has better treble and bass. It scaled up well with the BHSE when I tried it at the LA Canjam.
> 
> $2,500 for a Sigma Pro, even in mint condition seems a bit much.  Still they are getting harder to find all the time and someone with cash to burn might take them.  Recently one Headfier had to make his own Sigma earcups.  It's too bad Stax doesn't return to this design.


 
  Yes, the Sigma/404 is the better model, but for some reason, I really enjoy the normal bias too. The sound leaner and airer, but to S/404 has more detail and overall better sound.
  I have no plans to sell either of them, that's for sure.


----------



## MrGreen

Where is the best place to buy replacement lambda frames? All of it, without the driver.
   
  I have a pet project I want to pursue using them...

 Alternatively, does anyone have broken lambdas they'd be willing to part with?


----------



## visualguy

I just spent a couple of hours listening to my SR-007 mk1 on the SRM-323S. I also own a KGSS, SRM-727A and SRM-007tA. I wasn't expecting much from the 323 with the O2, but I was pleasantly surprised. It drives them absolutely fine even at higher volume than the highest I normally listen to. I haven't found a weakness - highs and mids are fine, the bass is well-controlled and at the right amount, detail is fine, soundstage is fine.
   
  In fact, the 323 sounds better wth the O2 than the 007t which suffers from overwhelming flabby bass, and also better than the 727 which also has an unnatural bass unless modded. The O2 sound very lively on the 323.
   
  I haven't yet tried to compare directly to the KGSS, but I've been using the KGSS with my O2 for years, and right now I believe that the sound quality is pretty equivalent to the 323 which is not something that I expected. Maybe I'll notice something that differentiates them in a direct comparison.


----------



## n3rdling

Gilency: Nice Sigma 404s!  Missed you at the last meet.  Maybe you can bring those to the next meet and hook them up to my BH.  I love the normal bias Sigmas, probably the most underrated headphone there is.  I have a Sigma Pro I plan to sell, maybe I should stick them up on audiogon. 
   
  MrGreen:  There have been a number of broken Lambdas come up for sale here over the past year but I'm not sure if they've all been sold.  Might want to run a search and PM people just in case.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Gilency: Nice Sigma 404s!  Missed you at the last meet.  Maybe you can bring those to the next meet and hook them up to my BH.  I love the normal bias Sigmas, probably the most underrated headphone there is.  I have a Sigma Pro I plan to sell, maybe I should stick them up on audiogon.


 
  Hey Milos! Good to hear from you. Very happy with them. Still dreaming of the SR-007 though.


----------



## Sundance

Where can I find new replacement SR-007 pads at a fair price? I can't seem to find any importers that carry Stax parts.


----------



## livewire

Ebay from time to time, or Audiocubes in Japan. They do exports.
   
  Link:  www.audiocubes2.com


----------



## DaveBSC

Bluetin Japan also carries all of the Stax accessories and ships worldwide.
   
  http://bluetin.com/catalog/stax-electrostatic_stax-accessories.html?osCsid=a8cd43ac8f506b009efb9d84f81ccfc5


----------



## schorsch

Hello,
   
  I need some advice about SRM-T1. I want ot change from 220V to 240V.  How can I get to the internal switch? Is rebiasing hard to do. There was an tutorial on head-fi but the pictures are no longer there.
   
  Thanks in advance
   
  Georg


----------



## spritzer

Remove the bottom panel to get to the switch.  The rebiasing has been covered multiple tines.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Hello,
> 
> I need some advice about SRM-T1. I want ot change from 220V to 240V.  How can I get to the internal switch? Is rebiasing hard to do. There was an tutorial on head-fi but the pictures are no longer there.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Balance + offset adjustment:

 With 1 tube per channel, adjustment of the balance between the tube sections is needed. The measurements can be made on the outside of the amp in the Stax socket between the + and - lead of the channel (L or R). Adjust for 0V DC. This can be hard because the balance pot is a single turn type and even a tiny rotation makes a huge difference. Clever design indeed.
  Also, DC offset has to be adjusted (offset pot). This is measured between the + lead and the ground clamp on the back of the amp. Again, adjust for 0V DC.
  An occasional check (can be done from the outside) wont hurt, valves tend to drift, especialy new ones.
  Repeat mesasurements a few times as they tend to influence eachother.
  Keep in mind that the power supply of these amps is not regulated, so fluctiations in mains voltage will effect your adjustments.
  Also keep in mind that the temperature of the amp has an influence on the balance and offset settings. Let the amp warm up 30-60 minutes. As soon as the top cover is removed, settings start to drift. I try to adjust for that by monitoring the amount of drift until the moment I actually turn the pot.
  On an SRM-T1, it is possible to adjust the amp through the holes in the top cover so temperature drift, caused by removing the top cover, can be avoided. *BUT*: be carefull not to misplace the screwdriver and/or hit anything in the amp, use an isolated screwdriver (high voltage danger inside!). I use a strong light to shine through the holes in the top cover so the inside of the amp is lit and I can clearly see what I'm doing.
   
  Good luck.


----------



## dukja

I have some problem getting the Right channel of my recently received SRM-1 MK2 PP tune to range.
   
  The amp was 240V and I rewired the transformer to 117V.  The amp turned on alright.  But the balance and offset reading on both channel are out of range.  I can adjust the left channel into range, but not the right channel. 
   
  I started by adjusting the pot labeled as BALANCE.  However, the voltage (V_R+/R-) between R+ and R- will never go down to zero.  Then I found out that I can adjust the pot labeled as OFFSET to make the V_R+/R- to zero.  However, this shift the offset measurement (the voltage between R+ and ground post, V_R+/G) way off to >100V.  And if I try to adjust the V_R+/G to zero, then V_R+/R- will be way off >100V.  The best I can do is to find a mid point where V_R+/R- is about 5V and V_R+/G is about -50V.
   
  First question, should I only adjust the pot labeled as BALANCE when I try to make V_R+/R- to zero?  (or I need to adjust OFFSET pot as I did).
   
  I highly suspect this amp has problem.  Thanks for the help!!


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I have some problem getting the Right channel of my recently received SRM-1 MK2 PP tune to range.
> 
> The amp was 240V and I rewired the transformer to 117V.  The amp turned on alright.  But the balance and offset reading on both channel are out of range.  I can adjust the left channel into range, but not the right channel.
> 
> ...


 

 I remember I had the same experience when I adjusted mine. It seemed to me that balance and offset markings were switched on the PCB.
  If you adjust offset with the one pot and balance with the other and repeat measurements a few times (alternated), it should be possible to get both readings around zero. At least, with mine, that worked out well (with 230V AC mains and the amp wired for 240V).


----------



## dukja

I used two DMMs to measure V_R+/G (volt between R+ and ground post) and V_R-/G simultaneously and figure out how these pots work.
   
  The OFFSET pot adjusts V_R+/G and V_R-/G reading in the opposite direction (one increased and the other decreased)
   
  The BALANCE pot adjusts V_R+/G and V_R-/G reading in the same direction (both increased or decreased).
   
  With the combination of these two pots, one is suppose to be able to make both V_R+/G and V_R-/G to zero simultaneously, which should be equivalent to the procedure mentioned by previous posts.
   
  But with my right channel, I can only adjust both V_R+/G and V_R-/G to about 48V with OFFSET pot.  My BALANCE pot cannot reduce that value but only increase it.  Is my BALANCE pot bad?   Or other components are out of spec?
   
  Thanks for the help.


----------



## dukja

My 407 finally came but now I have not even plug it in yet, just because of this issue.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Or can I at least get a listen?  Is it safe to do so with such unbalanced reading?


----------



## Knijsterbek

Have you tried to first get V_R+/G or V_R-/G to 0V DC and then adjust V_R+/R- for 0 DC?
  In other words: if there is no offset pot setting at which V_R+/G and V_R-/G is lower than 48V DC, then I assume that something is out of specs.
  BTW: did you close the volume pot to zero?


----------



## dukja

Sprizer PM me briefly before he heading to bed and his reply confirmed my observation:
   
  1. The labels on the PCB were (probably intentionally) WRONG.  The pot labled as "offset" is actually "balance" and vice versa.  I already suspected that in my adjustment.
  2. Spritzer mentioned that adjustment on one pot will knock the other setting off.  That is also what I suspected and observed.  However, if you have two DMMs, you can very quickly dial the number into range: I basically adjusted the BALANCE (labeled as "offset") pot and see the reading of V_L+/G and V_L-/G to be the same.  Then, adjust OFFSET (labeled as "balance") until both reach zero.  This is actually exactly what was described in the posts with one DMM.  Just the wrong label confused the hell out of me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  3. I did leave the volume pot to zero.  Do I need to connect source (input)?  I don't think so though.
  4. And if I get either V_R+/G or V_R-/G to 0V DC, then the other will be way off.  There is no way I can make both zero simultaneously.
   
  But still I cannot make right channel dial into range.  If someone experienced this before can offer me a quick diagnosis, I should be able to debug it out.  OR I will ask the sell to take it back if it is confirmed bad.
   
  A hint for preventing temperature interference during adjustment: 
  Just slide the top case half way and use a stack of paper or book to cover the other half.  Leave a crack to allow screw driver coming down for adjustment.  I pretty much can finish the adjustment without introduce any reading perturbation.  Otherwise, the reading was just drifting too rapidly.

  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> Have you tried to first get V_R+/G or V_R-/G to 0V DC and then adjust V_R+/R- for 0 DC?
> In other words: if there is no offset pot setting at which V_R+/G and V_R-/G is lower than 48V DC, then I assume that something is out of specs.
> BTW: did you close the volume pot to zero?


----------



## FlyingBear

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but travel constantly, including to Japan. If I have time, a few hours geeking out in Akihabara is always fun. Look what I saw in Yodobashi Camera, in their high-end headphone section (which is bigger than most US audio stores):
   

   
  There's more:
   

   
  It's a little noisy, but I was able to listen to the same SACD on the SR-007 MkIIs and the SR-009s. As usual in Japan, nobody messes with you, and you're left to listen to what you want for as long as you want. I should have moved the SR-007 MkIIs to the SR-009 amp for a true comparison, but they were secured in their area. The SR-009s at first had only the left channel working, but a Yodobashi guy cleaned the contact pins on the plug and then they worked just fine.
   
  I'm very new to Stax: I'm waiting for my Woo WES and MkIIs to arrive. So these impressions are from a noob, in a less-than-quiet environment. The difference between the MkIIs and the SR-009s is, of course, subtle, but evident even to a new listener. Acoustic guitar material had more attack and impact on the SR-009s. There is slightly more well-defined bass. The overall experience though, is clearly superior. Perhaps it's partly because the rotating-within-rotating earcups and transducers on the MkIIs take some getting used to, and I'm not there yet, but the SR-009s are immediately comfortable with no adjustments. I was fiddling with the MkIIs all the time. But the "wow" factor was higher with the SR-009s too. But gosh, $5000? A future treat, perhaps.....


----------



## TMoney

Whoa! Awesome!
   
  Did they actually have any stock on the SR-009s or was it just the floor model?


----------



## FlyingBear

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Whoa! Awesome!
> 
> Did they actually have any stock on the SR-009s or was it just the floor model?


 


  I didn't ask, sorry.


----------



## Hammerzeit

It's...It's so beautiful *sheds tear* Also the SR 2050a should arrive tomorrow, quite excited.


----------



## livewire

Yes. Tis a thing of beauty.
   
  Awrite on the Stax Basic!
   
  Listening to "The Year Of The Cat" on mine right now. Sublime....


----------



## Ckaz

I've been hearing a lot about Stax lately, and they seem like something I really wouldn't mind trying out. However I'm a bit confused as to how they work.

   

  What is confusing me are their driver units. How exactly do I go about driving a pair of Stax headphones? I'm guessing they don't just plug into any old amplifier, but the driver units that they carry are extremely expensive, more so than even the headphone themselves.

   

  Would anybody be able to help clear this up for me?


----------



## Hammerzeit

Got my stax earlier today and I'm loving it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think my current headphone stands expresses my feelings perfectly, although I kinda worry that it might mess with the headband.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





ckaz said:


> I've been hearing a lot about Stax lately, and they seem like something I really wouldn't mind trying out. However I'm a bit confused as to how they work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 Yes  you need either a special head[hone amp or a special transformer which runs off the speaker terminals of a regular amp.  Most people go for the separate headphone amp.  Costwise, you are looking at about the same money for the lower Stax range as for a top-class dynamic system to which most Staxen can be compared.
   
  Fortunately these phones and their amps hold up well over many decades and you can get good sets well over 30 years old at a good price on Ebay or in these selling forums.  Stax has made a dozen or more Lambda models over the last 30 years and still makes this basic design.  You may be able to get an old Lambda ( preferably high bias) and an SRM1k2 amp for somewhere between $500-$700.00.  This could be a very good set-up and cost effective as these things go.  You will get better sound, probably the best  there is, with a BHSE and SR009 but that will set you back about $10K not including a few thousand more for a  top class source.


----------



## gilency

Another normal bias Sigma for sale in ebay. Expensive, sold as a bundle with SRM-1 MK2, both for 1800.00. Crazy.
  They even used John Buchanan's description/history of the Sigma's. 
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-Sigma-Earspeakers-and-SRM-1-Mk-2-Amplifier-NM-/190534910616?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2c5cc40298#ht_16701wt_622
   
  And an SR-Omega for 3600.00! Crazieeer......
   
http://cgi.ebay.com/STAX-SR-Omega-SR-Ultra-Rare-/260786960748?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb81d396c#ht_500wt_964
   
  I dont know if the sellers are legit or not...


----------



## n3rdling

That's trevornetwork, please be careful people.


----------



## gilency

n3rdling said:


> That's trevornetwork, please be careful people.




Who is he?


----------



## livewire

Let's just say that he is not well liked elsewhere due to previous deceptions. Also there are red flags all over that auction of his.


----------



## dukja

OK, thanks to Spritzer's help.  I have been working on the SRM-1 MK2 PP I got from crumpler like crazy.  Certainly gain a lot of knowledge about it.  I finally found a dead resistor that cause the offset calibration issue.   After swapped in and listen to my 1st Stax set for 5 mintutes.., and new problem shows up.  Oh well.
   
  I can't believe people selling such gear and claim it to be working condition.  Either being really newbie in headfi so he cannot hear any apparent problem or ...   
   
  I'll keep working on this amp but I also got NEW 323s coming from Japan.  That should give me some reference for comparison with SRM1.
   
  Since new 323s will be wired for 100V, does anyone know that if they can be rewired to 110V?
   
  Second question, anyone can recommended a good step-down transformer so I can use it without re-soldering?
   
  Thanks a lot!!


----------



## svyr

>After swapped in and listen to my 1st Stax set for 5 mintutes.., and new problem shows up. Oh well.


mmm? what problem? also what resistor (number and value) died on your srm1/mk2 pp? It might be pointing to a larger issue and you could potentially be better off replacing other parts near it.



>Either being really newbie in headfi so he cannot hear any apparent problem or ... 


Let me put it this way - if you didn't try to retune the bal/offset, would you have noticed it?


----------



## dukja

Hay, thanks for the help.  Spritzer was out so I have not got any more help yet.
   
  The R119 died (the schematic shows it for L channel, but it is actually R channel on PCB).  There is no burnt mark. It just read as open.  The R219 was fine.   I checked most bipolar transistor using the diode mode on my nice DMM and they seemed to be fine.  Most "big" caps and resistors that see HV have been checked.  Oh, the DC out of transformer is a little bit weak (308VDC from 243VAC out of yellow wire) I did learned a lot debugging this amp.  
   
  After replacing the equivalent resistor, both balance/offset calibration can be dialed in to ~0VDC.  It sounds OK (the bass is rich but less controlled comparing to beyer T1), but about 5 minutes, the left channel sound faded away.  I can adjust the offset pot to get the sound level up, but the sound will fade again later.  I think it is due to some failing component so that the bias point of the FET was swinging.
   
  I can turn it on and listen for a few minutes and the volume will fade and I will hear the distortion at loud bass.  (literally broken sound).
   
  Still I got some quick comparison of Stax gear with my T1 + Phoneix.  It was interesting and I can see the different presentation.  I like it so far and am willing to spend more money to buy a new Stax amp. 
   
  The money I spend to buy this NON-functioning amp from the headfier (claimed it perfectly function and then refuse to take the amp back even I pay for both way shipping) is petty much vanishing in the air.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  Quote: 





svyr said:


> >After swapped in and listen to my 1st Stax set for 5 mintutes.., and new problem shows up. Oh well.
> 
> 
> mmm? what problem? also what resistor (number and value) died on your srm1/mk2 pp? It might be pointing to a larger issue and you could potentially be better off replacing other parts near it.
> ...


----------



## Michgelsen

Make sure you leave negative feedback then, even if that's all you can do...


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> Hay, thanks for the help.  Spritzer was out so I have not got any more help yet.
> 
> The R119 died (the schematic shows it for L channel, but it is actually R channel on PCB).  There is no burnt mark. It just read as open.  The R219 was fine.   I checked most bipolar transistor using the diode mode on my nice DMM and they seemed to be fine.  Most "big" caps and resistors that see HV have been checked.  Oh, the DC out of transformer is a little bit weak (308VDC from 243VAC out of yellow wire) I did learned a lot debugging this amp.
> 
> ...




wow, that's not sounding good at all. I suggest you also try Dr Gilmore (kevin.gilmore, or was it kevin_gilmore). He and sprizer helped me fix my SRM-1 (more like fixed remotely with soldering and measuring ) and figure out that after fixing a dead resistor the rest of the problem was in large DC offset in my MD11 dac lol ... 

For the power in, I had All the power caps showed around 330v DC from 240v AC in. (large C005,etc in the psu section) 

I presume read as open you mean inf resistance (yep,that's pretty dead)...

Sort of sounds like something overheats (or maybe dodgy/damaged cap or diode nearby the dead resistor)...then again that's my reply to everything electronics  )...Not sure if it could be an overtightened pot, but you could try replace the sections around the dead resistor on both channels - i.e the transistor (see http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/223263/the-stax-thread-new/15345#post_7396494) and the cap / couple of resistors around it and the diode (1n4007 is a replacement for every diode except the 1s1153. the 1s1153 are likely replaced by a 1n914. <--- thanks kevin and spritzer)...Same goes for the pots, but I wouldn't have a clue what the suitable replacement is.



>The money I spend to buy this NON-functioning amp from the headfier (refuse to take the amp back even I pay for shipping) is petty much vanishing in the air.... 

heh, well, look at how it may sound to him - "i got your amp, opened it, turned some weak single turn pots and stuck some probes into it then soldered it and it doesn't work"
IDK if leaving negative feedback will do anything since can quite easily leave some for you to reciprocate...


----------



## dukja

Guys thanks for the hints and condolence.  I don't intent to revenge for my loss, but definitely will leave some warning for future headfier to learn about.   The true character of people quickly shows even with only a few hundred bucks involved.  (Sorry, I am a rich cow to milk. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  No, definitely not. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
   
  I'll keep debugging it just as a good exercise for my future DIY project.  Thanks a lot for your help!  It may be more fun and rewarding than just use the gear.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Since new 323s will be wired for 100V, does anyone know that if they can be rewired to 110V?


 

 I just bought a SRM-323S for the sole reason of documenting how this is done.  It was childsplay with the 323A so hopefully the new amps are just as easy to modify.


----------



## dukja

I just order mine today.  Please keep me updated on re-wiring transformer.  Thanks a lot!!
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I just bought a SRM-323S for the sole reason of documenting how this is done.  It was childsplay with the 323A so hopefully the new amps are just as easy to modify.


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> Guys thanks for the hints and condolence.  I don't intent to revenge for my loss, but definitely will leave some warning for future headfier to learn about.   The true character of people quickly shows even with only a few hundred bucks involved.  (Sorry, I am a rich cow to milk.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




m, warning type feedback is good. Usually means if people intended to deceive they can only do it a lot less times in total (once people might give them the benefit of doubt, second time - they'll start a poo-storm)

yay, spritzer! Any suggested course for dukja on what to measure/replace, or did I poke a hole in the right area of the sky  ? (congrats on the 323s new toy btw)


----------



## vvs_75

[size=9.5pt]If you paid via Paypal I would start a despute case  right away.  Main reason the product is not as described. Put everything as it is and hope that paypal will rule in you favor. It does not work  in 100% cases but worth a shot. I just won two cases like that within last two month. And got all my money back.  Good luck! [/size]


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





svyr said:


> yay, spritzer! Any suggested course for dukja on what to measure/replace, or did I poke a hole in the right area of the sky
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I'm still trying to narrow down what needs to be fixed as that busted resistor could be a clue.  It is a part of the input stage so if the 2SA1156 is busted then that would explain a lot of things.  Most of the transistors in there are cheap to replace except for the J109's which are beyond rare these days...
   
  As for the 323, it will be sold as soon as I'm done with it.  I need more Stax amps about as much as a hole in the head...


----------



## dukja

Unfortunately, I try to be cheap and use "gift option" with bank transfer.  This is very bad decision for someone I don't know much.  I learned my lesson and will not make the same mistake again.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Paypal will not accept dispute for "gift option" and my bank will not help either.
  
  Quote: 





vvs_75 said:


> [size=9.5pt]If you paid via Paypal I would start a despute case  right away.  Main reason the product is not as described. Put everything as it is and hope that paypal will rule in you favor. It does not work  in 100% cases but worth a shot. I just won two cases like that within last two month. And got all my money back.  Good luck! [/size]


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I just bought a SRM-323S for the sole reason of documenting how this is done.  It was childsplay with the 323A so hopefully the new amps are just as easy to modify.


 

 Can you give us a quick A/B comparison with your KGSS? Supposedly the 323S gets pretty close, if that's true I may sell my KGSS and use a 323S until a commercial KGSS-HV is available.


----------



## MayaTlab

Hello,
   
  I'm considering buying a Stax system but I have a few questions beforhands.
   
  1) I listened to a 323II (european version) + 507, wired to a Micromega CD-30. I felt the overall sound signature was artificially bright and digital. Is the Micromega CD-30 responsible for this ? Is it a bright CD player ? It surely felt to be a good quality one (and it's priced around 1000 euros in France), but it might just have a very clear sound signature.
   
  2) Would it be foolish to plug a 323 into a Hifiman HM-801 LO with a mini to RCA cable, from the SD card (not the USB option as it is supposed to be detrimental to SQ) ? I've heard the 801 competes very VERY favorably to desktop DAC of its price range. A post even said it was better used this way than an Audio GD DAC 19. I'm not asking if this is an optimal setup, but how will it compete to other DACs in the HM-801 price range. Also, and very important, would that combination be warmer / more organic sounding than the Micromega CD-30 I tried ?
  You might want to ask why I'm thinking about this. It's because I'd like to use the 801 as a portable source as well with my upcoming DT 1350, and I'd like my source to be not "CD based" and not wired to my laptop all the time. Also it means I'd only have to manage one source of content.
   
  3) Is there any advantage going for the 507 over the 407 ? The specs between the 307 and 407 are different, but they seem a lot closer between the 407 and 507. Only the impedance seems to change a little bit, and that might just be because of the cable. That makes me wonder if the driver is the same between the two Particularly : has the 407 retained the "etched" sound signature of its predecessors, or is it closer to the 507 in that regard ? Any difference about soundstage ?
  I precise that I listened to a pair of SR 303 as well, and they were quite close to the SR 507, but with some sort of edge in the upper mids and treble area that really disturbed me.
   
  4) Is there any real and substantial analysis about the influence of a voltage converter on sound quality ? I'd most likely import the system from Japan (ex : AudiocubeII) and I've read everything and its countrary about that issue. Would the defaut converter sold by AudiocubeII be enough ? Has anybody tried it ?
   
  Thanks !


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Can you give us a quick A/B comparison with your KGSS? Supposedly the 323S gets pretty close, if that's true I may sell my KGSS and use a 323S until a commercial KGSS-HV is available.


 

 Yup, I can do that when it arrives.


----------



## visualguy

I stopped using my KGSS after getting the 323S. The 323S sounds just as good to me, it's compact, it consumes less power and generates less heat, it has a power switch on the front, and it has a nice single attenuator.
   
  I'm curious about the sound difference between the KGSS/323S and the BHSE when listening to the SR-007 mk1. Does the BHSE really sound better at normal listening volume and what is better about its sound?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mayatlab said:


> Hello,
> 
> 2) Would it be foolish to plug a 323 into a Hifiman HM-801 LO with a mini to RCA cable, from the SD card (not the USB option as it is supposed to be detrimental to SQ) ? I've heard the 801 competes very VERY favorably to desktop DAC of its price range. A post even said it was better used this way than an Audio GD DAC 19. I'm not asking if this is an optimal setup, but how will it compete to other DACs in the HM-801 price range. Also, and very important, would that combination be warmer / more organic sounding than the Micromega CD-30 I tried ?
> 
> ...


 
   
  I can't comment on the sound of the Micromega, but my HM-801 sounded very good via its line output into my SRM-1 Mk2. The HM-801 is a better DAC than the $300-500 stuff, but at its price or a little above, it's likely to be beaten. The Burson, W4S, or Anedio DACs for example would likely make short work of it. The USB DAC on the 801 sounds pretty bad, and really should be considered only for last resort.
   
  Ive seen a few reports about voltage converters being very detrimental to the sound, a better idea if you want to import an amp is to simply re-wire it (or have someone technical do it for you), I wouldn't recommend Audiocubes either. Lots of very negative reports lately about terrible communication, and orders taking ages and ages to actually ship. Frankly AC's prices aren't that great either.


----------



## MayaTlab

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Ive seen a few reports about voltage converters being very detrimental to the sound, a better idea if you want to import an amp is to simply re-wire it (or have someone technical do it for you), I wouldn't recommend Audiocubes either. Lots of very negative reports lately about terrible communication, and orders taking ages and ages to actually ship. Frankly AC's prices aren't that great either.


 

 Thank you. Where have you seen those reports ? Because I see a zillion posts telling that using voltage converters is bad, and another zillion telling me that it does not have any incidence on sound quality (of course using the right converter). But I see no post at all where somedy has actually experienced for real a deterioration in SQ because of a voltage converter.
   
  I'm insistent on that issue because it means to me saving pretty much 600 euros. I can get the 323S imported for barely more than 600 euros. I'd have to spend double that amount to get it in Europe. That means that as long as the voltage converter I'd have to get not to deteriorate the SQ is lower than 600 euros, I'm still saving money.
   
  So if there is some real data about it, that would be nice. Otherwise I'll just take the risk and let my wallet do the thinking.
   
  Oh, and what do you "staxists" think about Bluetin Japan ? Is it serious ?


----------



## dukja

I only listen 407 + a shaky SRM-1 MK2 PP less than an hour.  However, I will never use "etchy" to describe 407.  I am using Audio-GD Ref-1 (current Ref-7) balanced DAC, which is known for very analogue sound.  The high freq is very smooth and much less sharp edges compare to my Beyer T1 + Phoenix.  Still I can hear good details.  However, maybe due to the imbalance of the SRM-1, the focus is not good and the bass is rich but loose.  Hopefully, my coming 323s will fix those issues.  I'll update later.
   
  As for voltage converter, let's wait for Spritzer gave us some details.  Rewiring may be easy.  We'll see.


----------



## MayaTlab

Thanks for the answer.
   
  I found some decent prices in the UK (at least close enough to a Japanese amp + good step down converter). Am I right to think that all Stax amps sold within the EU are the same ? Or has Stax put up some additionnal trick to bother my money saving schemes ?


----------



## Michgelsen

Why wouldn't they be the same?


----------



## spritzer

A properly made voltage converter (i,e, a full fledged transformer) should be beneficial to the sound as it stops all the DC floating on the mains from entering the amp and messing with its transformer.  Now most voltage converters aren't this good as they are auto-formers but still they shouldn't hurt in any way. 
   
  All Stax amps of the same type are the same everywhere in the world, regardless of what suffix is added to the name (A/II etc.).  The Japanese models have special measures designed to make it hard to switch to 117/230V but I've never seen an amp I couldn't  convert.


----------



## MayaTlab

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> A properly made voltage converter (i,e, a full fledged transformer) should be beneficial to the sound as it stops all the DC floating on the mains from entering the amp and messing with its transformer.  Now most voltage converters aren't this good as they are auto-formers but still they shouldn't hurt in any way.
> 
> All Stax amps of the same type are the same everywhere in the world, regardless of what suffix is added to the name (A/II etc.).  The Japanese models have special measures designed to make it hard to switch to 117/230V but I've never seen an amp I couldn't  convert.


 

 Thank you. Would you have an example of what type of converter I should be looking for ? Any recommandation ? If the bad ones are called "auto-formers", what's the name of the type of converter you recommend me ?


----------



## spritzer

The ones I use are all vintage types so I have none to recommend.  The only recent one I had custom made for me by SumR to fit inside my modded Denon player.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> A properly made voltage converter (i,e, a full fledged transformer) should be beneficial to the sound as it stops all the DC floating on the mains from entering the amp and messing with its transformer.  Now most voltage converters aren't this good as they are auto-formers but still they shouldn't hurt in any way.


 

  
  Here is a plan B - or is it C? Sola/HD in the USA sells constant voltage transformers. The CVS line regulates voltage within 1% and blocks 40dB of noise and 6000 volts of surge. The MCR line regulates to 3% and blocks more noise and more surge current. Unlike a normal power supply, they pass up to 92% of the current going in. There are stand alone units, but these you hard wire into your circuit or put an outlet box at the end. Did I mention that since you wire them you can have different voltages going in and out, up or down? I can wire these to accept higher voltage foreign equipment from my 120v or hook it up to my 240v line and run 120v from it. 50hz as well as 60hz units are available. Between that and the regular wall plugs I can mix and match gear regardless of where it was made, within reason. Much easier than converting individual pieces.
   
  They are posted used all the time on eBay, and if they seem expensive remember that they put all the audiophile power supplies, line conditioners, AC cords and other overpriced assorted crap to shame. So sell the junk and get one of these. I just scored a 750VA unit, used, for $89 on the bay. If you get a new one it will have a ten year warranty, Try that with consumer audio equipment.
   
  PS I have used these since 1971. Even if you do not require a different voltage, your equipment will thank you for it. They are big, heavy transformers and hum a bit, so put them on the other side of the wall from your listening room.


----------



## sphinxvc

I tried the SR-202 and Lambda Pros recently and preferred the latter.  Anyone know which of the modern Stax models sound closest to the Lambda Pros?  If I recall correctly the Pros had prominent and tight mid-bass, the 202s a bit more sub.


----------



## K3cT

None as far as I know off... the Lambda Pro is pretty lovely and one of the few Lambdas that get tonality right and comes without that splashy upper mid (I'm looking at you 404LE).


----------



## Jodet

Has anyone compared an ATH-W1000x to an SR-507?
   
  I have the 507's and certainly intend to keep them.   But I've been thinking it would be fun to have a second set of cans for variety's sake.  And the AT's have always interested me.  
   
  Any comments welcome.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Has anyone compared an ATH-W1000x to an SR-507?
> 
> I have the 507's and certainly intend to keep them.   But I've been thinking it would be fun to have a second set of cans for variety's sake.  And the AT's have always interested me.
> 
> Any comments welcome.


 

 I don't have the W1000x, but I have the W5000 and the SR-507. The SR-507 are better - they sound fuller (instruments have more body), and they have much better bass.


----------



## svyr

visualguy said:


> I don't have the W1000x, but I have the W5000 and the SR-507. The SR-507 are better - they sound fuller (instruments have more body), and they have much better bass.




+1 re: W5000 vs 507


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> 202 is good, perhaps the only one with the right tonality between the 303 and 404. It's the perfect entry into the Stax world.


 
   
_Really? _I have been obsessing about the 407 or 507 or an old Nova Signature, etc.  At times I have wondered about the 404 Signature, 404 LE, and so on. But this could be really good news. The 202 is that good? Is this a general consensus among Stax fans?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## svyr

jeffreyfranz said:


> _Really? _I have been obsessing about the 407 or 507 or an old Nova Signature, etc.  At times I have wondered about the 404 Signature, 404 LE, and so on. But this could be really good news. The 202 is that good? Is this a general consensus among Stax fans?
> 
> Thanks.




I didn't like 202 at all. To me it sounded thin and harsh  and sold it within a few weeks. But you can get it for very little, so why not? I'd still save up for a 407 or LNS instead.


----------



## n3rdling

PM me if you want a LNS jeff


----------



## Michgelsen

The SR-202 is a good all-rounder. It makes a perfect second pair of headphones, though I lived with them as my primary pair for some time as well and was happy with them. I do not agree with the 'thin and harsh' comment, not even when compared to the SR-007.


----------



## edstrelow

Consider removing the foam behind a Lambda.  I find this gets rid of some upper mid harshness and expands the sound field.  It has helped both my 404 and LNS.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

_Thank you all _for the quick responses and helpful feedback. I'll keep an open mind and continue reading, looking and researching.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> _Really? _I have been obsessing about the 407 or 507 or an old Nova Signature, etc.  At times I have wondered about the 404 Signature, 404 LE, and so on. But this could be really good news. The 202 is that good? Is this a general consensus among Stax fans?
> 
> Thanks.


 

  
  Considering its price and relative performance compared to other classic Lambdas, I would say that it's _that_ good especially once you invest in better energizers. The bundled SRM-252 is holding it back.
   
  I haven't heard any of the newer x07 Lambdas though.


----------



## svyr

michgelsen said:


> The SR-202 is a good all-rounder. It makes a perfect second pair of headphones, though I lived with them as my primary pair for some time as well and was happy with them. I do not agree with the 'thin and harsh' comment, not even when compared to the SR-007.




heh, Idk the bass amount and extension was rather meh... I only tried it with SRM252 and SRM-300 both SS and not the greatest amps... Maybe I just liked the more forward mids on SR-404 and the somewhat boomy bass  more.


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Has anyone compared an ATH-W1000x to an SR-507?
> 
> I have the 507's and certainly intend to keep them.   But I've been thinking it would be fun to have a second set of cans for variety's sake.  And the AT's have always interested me.
> 
> Any comments welcome.


 
   
  They are different beasts and really can't be compared. The W1000X unmodified have a longish decay, romantic slowish sound, and almost Grado like midrange emphasis. They are bassy cans with great extension down low and a good level of texture - better than any of the Denons including D7000, which can sound subwooferish (the bad kind) at times. The W1000X have nowhere the clarity of the 507. The 507 FR seems fairly even and smooth, but with a slight treble tilt and some balls in the bass - though not as much volume compared to W1000X. Again, this really doesn't say much because you are comparing totally different approaches to sound reproduction. If you want variety's sake, you should just pick up the W1000X anyways.


----------



## Electrostax

I have been using my old faithful SR-34 system for almost twenty years of outstanding service, and now think seriously about letting them retire honorably and replacing them with the younger family member SR507.
  Do any of you know if the 507´s can be run of the SRD-34 energizer? (although originally used to power the electret sr-30´s)
  I am naturally going to mate them with something more appropriate like a woo ges or a blue hawaii in due time, but limited funds dictate a little-by-little approach, and in the meantime i may not need a woo wee or similar if the old srd-34 can be used while saving up....


----------



## padam

You need an energizer that provides Pro bias to drive the headphones such as SRD-7 Pro or Mk2. The electret ones do not provide bias.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


k3ct said:


> None as far as I know off... the Lambda Pro is pretty lovely and one of the few Lambdas that get tonality right and comes without that splashy upper mid (I'm looking at you 404LE).


 

 So what's a fair price on a Lambda Pro system?  Either as a combo with the SRM-1 MK II or as separates.


----------



## svyr

sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> So what's a fair price on a Lambda Pro system?  Either as a combo with the SRM-1 MK II or as separates.




you can see old but still working and looking OK Lambda pros for as low as $120 (probably a bit more if they've got new pads and driver dust covers or headband... up to 250 if NOS ?), SRM-1/mk2 - ymmv, you can get one for as low as 350 (could be fine, could be both electrically and physically dead-ish? (a few people bought varying degrees of not working and managed to fix them if it was a simple cap change)) , and probably as high as 650 (minty outside, restored/recapped and/or modded). Whether it's worth adding a bit and buying a new system for the higher price range for the two is another question (probably yes?)


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  A newer Stax?  There's really nothing in the dynamic or planar market within budget that can match what I heard out of the SR-Lambda Pros and I took K3CTs post to mean that none of the newer Stax sound similar to the Pro.


----------



## svyr

> I took K3CTs post to mean that none of the newer Stax sound similar to the Pro.

K3CT, You sure you meant to say that  ?


>There's really nothing in the dynamic or planar market within budget that can match what I heard out of the SR-Lambda Pros 

I meant in the sense of adding $4-500 and getting a newer stax driver unit or earspeakers. Unfortunately, I can't comment on LPro vs SRx07


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> So what's a fair price on a Lambda Pro system?  Either as a combo with the SRM-1 MK II or as separates.


 


  I don't quite remember but it's around $150 for the headphone only. It's a really old unit though so the condition is pretty dreadful, the inner damping and pads have deteriorated and need to be replaced. I think getting one in tip-top condition is going to be challenging but if you can get one under $200, its price/performance is really hard to beat.
   
  Quote:


sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> A newer Stax?  There's really nothing in the dynamic or planar market within budget that can match what I heard out of the SR-Lambda Pros and *I took K3CTs post to mean that none of the newer Stax sound similar to the Pro.*


 
   
  Quote:


svyr said:


> > I took K3CTs post to mean that none of the newer Stax sound similar to the Pro.
> 
> K3CT, You sure you meant to say that
> 
> ...


 


  Depends on what we mean by "newer Stax". I haven't heard the newer SRx07 so I can't comment on that but I always feel that the 303, 404 and 404LE all come with their own irritating sonic quirks although they are generally more resolving. For example, the 404LE has the best midrange details compared to the other Lambdas but that upper mid peakiness really gets to you after a while.


----------



## Electrostax

Quote: 





padam said:


> You need an energizer that provides Pro bias to drive the headphones such as SRD-7 Pro or Mk2. The electret ones do not provide bias.


 


  Thanks Padam! I´m amazed by the level of knowledge and speed of replies regarding technical issues on this forum!   
  Looks like I´ll have to bite the bullet and go Woo Wee or SRM 252 / 323 while I save up for the Blue Hawaii....
  Anyone know if the 252 will be enjoyable at all with the 507´s?


----------



## padam

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Electrostax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Thanks Padam! I´m amazed by the level of knowledge and speed of replies regarding technical issues on this forum!
> Looks like I´ll have to bite the bullet and go Woo Wee or SRM 252 / 323 while I save up for the Blue Hawaii....
> Anyone know if the 252 will be enjoyable at all with the 507´s?


 

 Yes it is likely to be good with the 507's, especially if it's the newer 252S version where they made some tweaks (there was a short comparison here).


----------



## MayaTlab

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> Thanks Padam! I´m amazed by the level of knowledge and speed of replies regarding technical issues on this forum!
> Looks like I´ll have to bite the bullet and go Woo Wee or SRM 252 / 323 while I save up for the Blue Hawaii....
> Anyone know if the 252 will be enjoyable at all with the 507´s?


 

 I have tried both the 252S and 323S with the 507.
   
  They were enjoyable with both. In fact I've been impressed by the consistency of the sound signature between the new Lambdas (207, 307, 407, 507) and the two amps.
   
  However, if the sound signature is consistent, it does not mean that the higher models aren't worth putting down the extra money.
   
  I really think the 323S is a marked improvement over the 252S. So will you enjoy the 507 out of the 252S ? Definitely. Will you exploit them to a good level ? I don't think so. They have much more "headroom" for sonic improvement as revealed by using them with the 323S.
   
  So in your case, ie "waiting for the BH", then yes I think the 252S is a good choice.


----------



## purrin

Just remember that waiting for the BH may take a while, so it may not be a bad idea to get something a little better in the meantime.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


svyr said:


> > I took K3CTs post to mean that none of the newer Stax sound similar to the Pro.
> 
> K3CT, You sure you meant to say that
> 
> ...


 

 I too haven't heard the X07s.  
   
  Quote:


k3ct said:


> I don't quite remember but it's around $150 for the headphone only. It's a really old unit though so the condition is pretty dreadful, the inner damping and pads have deteriorated and need to be replaced. I think getting one in tip-top condition is going to be challenging but if you can get one under $200, its price/performance is really hard to beat.
> 
> 
> Depends on what we mean by "newer Stax". I haven't heard the newer SRx07 so I can't comment on that but I always feel that the 303, 404 and 404LE all come with their own irritating sonic quirks although they are generally more resolving. For example, the 404LE has the best midrange details compared to the other Lambdas but that upper mid peakiness really gets to you after a while.


 

 By "newer Stax" I meant the current offerings.  $200?  All I've been seeing is $300+.  I guess I'll wait for better prices, I'm in no hurry.  
   
  I have a feeling a tube stage + SRM-1/MK 2 + Lambda Pro will make a really nice system.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> I have a feeling a tube stage + SRM-1/MK 2 + Lambda Pro will make a really nice system.


 


 Then why not try a SRM-T1 and cut out the tube stage? In my experience, if the phone is not too hard to drive, like sigma pro or omega(2) etc., (and lambda's in general arent that hard to drive), the T1 beats the SRM-1/Mk2 by a fair margin.
  Unfortunately, I do not owm Lambda Pro's, so I can't comment on that specific combination, but with normal bias lambda's, the difference was quite remarkable.


----------



## Loevhagen

First experience with Stax (O2mkII and 007tmkII). Tried three of my DACs. One gave too boomey sound on the 007t, one was to clinical but the Hegel HD10 was the one that came out best.
   
  Haven gotten the opportunity to listen for this Stax combo 3 days (yesterday, today and tomorrow); it has definitively triggered my curiosity for Stax.  However, the price tag (RRP) in Norway is $6200 (34700 NOK).
   
  Maybe skip the 007tmkII and buy a SRM-323s to a pair of O2mkII. Having read sparse through some Stax information, my impression that the new SRM-3232s is a good match.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


knijsterbek said:


> Then why not try a SRM-T1 and cut out the tube stage? In my experience, if the phone is not too hard to drive, like sigma pro or omega(2) etc., (and lambda's in general arent that hard to drive), the T1 beats the SRM-1/Mk2 by a fair margin.
> Unfortunately, I do not owm Lambda Pro's, so I can't comment on that specific combination, but with normal bias lambda's, the difference was quite remarkable.


 

 That's an option, yes.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





loevhagen said:


> Maybe skip the 007tmkII and buy a SRM-323s to a pair of O2mkII. Having read sparse through some Stax information, my impression that the new SRM-3232s is a good match.


 

 Definitely skip the 007t. The O2 mk1 sound great with the 323S (haven't tried the O2 mk2).


----------



## dukja

I have to left my "newly acquired but not-functioning" SRM-1 MK2 PP for a few days and just checked it again today upon spritzer's guidance.  His hunch on the 2.2M ohm resistors was right one.  Those two resistors providing volt to bias pin were both open.  That brought the total bad resistor count to three now.  I put two temporary replacement resistors with similar value in  and just gave this amp another trial.
   
  The balance/offset voltages are now very close to zero volt.  Good sign.  And after some minor calibration, the amp has been stable for more than 40 minutes now.  The volume level is much better now and I only need to use knob at 7~8 o'clock with balanced input.  And NO distortion!
   
  Since I moved my Phoenix + Beyer T1 back elsewhere, so there is no direct comparison.  However, I can tell the focusing of this 407 + SRM-1 combo is much improved and the bass is tighter than it was before (but at this moment still less solid and more diffusive comparing to T1).  The amount of bass is more than T1, which makes it SQ much warmer than T1.
   
  More listening to come...


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I have to left my "newly acquired but not-functioning" SRM-1 MK2 PP for a few days and just checked it again today upon spritzer's guidance.  His hunch on the 2.2M ohm resistors was right one.  Those two resistors providing volt to bias pin were both open.  That brought the total bad resistor count to three now.  I put two temporary replacement resistors with similar value in  and just gave this amp another trial.
> 
> The balance/offset voltages are now very close to zero volt.  Good sign.  And after some minor calibration, the amp has been stable for more than 40 minutes now.  The volume level is much better now and I only need to use knob at 7~8 o'clock with balanced input.  And NO distortion!


 
   
  Congrats for achieving that!
  Still have to find the time to modify mine for balanced and upgrade some of the other parts.
  BTW: I fitted mine with one normal bias socket so I can use normal and pro bias phones...


----------



## dukja

Thanks a lot to spritzer's guidance.
   
  When my 323s comes, I'll compare srm-1 with it.  But up to now, my impression of my 1st stax experience was that I can use more tweaking for sharper edges of focusing.  Since I already got my hands wet with a little bit diy and need to get some parts, what kind of "upgrade" you would suggest?   resistor or caps?  The electrolytic capacitors have been replaced to Nichicon (and one Muse). 
   
  Thanks!
   
  Edit:  Interestingly, after the amp up and running for several hours, the clarity of the sound seems to improved quite a bit.  I have heard people suggest leave the stax phone plugged in and keep it energized to ensure consistent good sound.  Is that the case?
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> Congrats for achieving that!
> Still have to find the time to modify mine for balanced and upgrade some of the other parts.
> BTW: I fitted mine with one normal bias socket so I can use normal and pro bias phones...


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> I have to left my "newly acquired but not-functioning" SRM-1 MK2 PP for a few days and just checked it again today upon spritzer's guidance.  His hunch on the 2.2M ohm resistors was right one.  Those two resistors providing volt to bias pin were both open.  That brought the total bad resistor count to three now.  I put two temporary replacement resistors with similar value in  and just gave this amp another trial.
> 
> The balance/offset voltages are now very close to zero volt.  Good sign.  And after some minor calibration, the amp has been stable for more than 40 minutes now.  The volume level is much better now and I only need to use knob at 7~8 o'clock with balanced input.  And NO distortion!
> 
> ...




wow, I only had 1 2.2 mohm bias resistor dead, and both spritzer and kevin seemed to think it's very unusual for them to die....Glad to hear it worked out.
You could also consider replacing the blue caps and diodes in hopes of a better sound  (and maybe the resistors around the dead ones)... but it's a bit of a pain.


----------



## dukja

Yea, it is truly beyond me to see resistor die after shipping.  I could imagine the transistor or cap being the problem, but never though about the resistor.  And three of them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
   
  Anyhow, it wasn't fun initially but the journey has been great with all you guy's help and support.  I great appreciate it.  And this experience really boost my interest to try some DIY amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  And what brand of caps or resistors are better choice?  Please PM me so we don't derail this thread. (or I'll ask in the DIY forum)
   
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *svyr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> wow, I only had 1 2.2 mohm bias resistor dead, and both spritzer and kevin seemed to think it's very unusual for them to die....Glad to hear it worked out.
> You could also consider replacing the blue caps and diodes in hopes of a better sound
> ...


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> Yea, it is truly beyond me to see resistor die after shipping.  I could imagine the transistor or cap being the problem, but never though about the resistor.  And three of them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




haha, spritzer and kg are epic. but it put me off DIY instead  

>Yea, it is truly beyond me to see resistor die after shipping. I could imagine the transistor or cap being the problem, but never though about the resistor. And three of them.

sounds more like someone shorted the bias pin to ground (e.g. accidentally connecting the multimeter in amps mode one end in, one end to gnd) (but maybe I'm wrong)


----------



## TruBrew

I am thinking about buying some Stax, and need guidance.
   
  I received a Stax 2050ii setup with the Smyth Realiser I recently purchased. I was amazed by the setup. It had the transparency in the highs of my HE-6/lyr combo, but lacked in the bass.
   
  I listen to music almost exclusively through my Realiser, which EQ's the sound, so the tone of the headphones is not an issue. I use the Realiser to create the illusion of using real speakers, and not headphones. Well, that doesn't work with my LCD-2 or HE-6. The LCD-2 clamps hard enough to make my head always feel closed in. The HE-6 are comfortable enough, but bother my ears after prolonged use.
   
  The 202's I tried on for a few hours were without a doubt the most comfortable headphones I have ever had on. It was almost as if I was not wearing them. I am looking for that level of comfort, but with better response. I want something with that comfort, but that is more resolving, and has the capacity to create more bass. I am thinking 507's or 007's. I would love the 009 but can not afford that at the moment.
   
  I assume the 507, retains all of the comfort of the 202, but how are the omegas for comfort. Is the 507 the best Lambda, or just the best current production one. Also, how do the omegas compare in comfort. Are the tighter, heavier etc.
   
  I am not looking to sacrifice quality for comfort, just find the most comfortable cans I can that also are unparalleled in sound. I made sure to state that tone in not important, because if you don't know what the Realiser does, it mimics the sound signature of any speaker you chose, so if a particular pair has an annoying peak, for an example, in its frequency range, it can easily be dealt with. I want something that is super quick, and can produce the bass with authority if called for.
   
  Thank you ahead of time for the help.


----------



## svyr

trubrew said:


> I am thinking about buying some Stax, and need guidance.
> 
> I received a Stax 2050ii setup with the Smyth Realiser I recently purchased. I was amazed by the setup. It had the transparency in the highs of my HE-6/lyr combo, but lacked in the bass.
> 
> ...




>I assume the 507, retains all of the comfort of the 202, but how are the omegas for comfort. Is the 507 the best Lambda, or just the best current production one. Also, how do the omegas compare in comfort. Are the tighter, heavier etc.

no, the headband assembly is completely different. Personally I hate the new arc and find it profusely uncomfortable. Others love it.


----------



## MayaTlab

@Trubrew :
   
  I assume you're using the 252II amp ?
   
  If so, and if your goal is to have more bass, instead of changing headphones, I'd try to listen to your 202 with a stronger amp. I personnally noticed a better bass response when I tried the 507 with the 323S instead of the 252S. I also tried the 207 (not the 202). I found the two headphones to have a rather similar frequency response (so the 207 might have more bass than the 202), but the 507 was more refined and higher grade in everyway (it did not improve anything in a major way, but everything was a little bit better).
   
  So I'd really try to find a dealer in your area and try your 202 with the 323.


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> Thanks a lot to spritzer's guidance.
> 
> When my 323s comes, I'll compare srm-1 with it.  But up to now, my impression of my 1st stax experience was that I can use more tweaking for sharper edges of focusing.  Since I already got my hands wet with a little bit diy and need to get some parts, what kind of "upgrade" you would suggest?   resistor or caps?  The electrolytic capacitors have been replaced to Nichicon (and one Muse).
> 
> ...




out of curiosity, did spritzer get you to measure L+/L- and R+/R- when the sound died and you measured they were normal -> bias = dead? or just said to measure the ballpark in-circuit bias section resistor values  ? 

SRM-300 isn't the best, but I found 202 equally flacid on it bass-wise


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> snip
> Also, how do the omegas compare in comfort. Are the tighter, heavier etc.
> snip


 

 I have both the 202 and 007a. the O2's are a little heavier and clamp a little tighter. You can adjust the clamping force and angle on the O2's by bending the arcs, which is pretty sweet.
  I didn't find the weight to be much of a problem(it's not that much really), as you can adjust the rotation of the headband to suit your head position, i.e if you is sleeping or looking downwards most of the time to read and such.
  The O2's earpads are far better in terms of heat, which is pretty important when you live in Australia eheh.
   
  I thought the 202's were simply brilliant in terms of comfort but my ears always pressed into the cloth meshy thing, and that got annoying, the O2's don't have this problem as the pads are a little deeper.
   
  All in all, I personally prefer the O2's, mainly due to less heat and more earpad depth, it just depends which specific properties you place over the other. They don't quite disappear like the 202's, but you don't feel like throwing them off after a few hours =P.


----------



## K3cT

Bass response is the Lambda's Achilles' Heel and it will always remain inferior to LCD2/HE6 unless you move up the chain into the Omega territory.


----------



## n3rdling

Most Lambdas actually measure quite well in the bass; they just have little impact.  Any experienced ear should be able to differentiate between the two.


----------



## K3cT

What's the difference with the LCD2? They also measure well but people complain that their treble is too dark.


----------



## n3rdling

Difference in the bass?  The LCD2 has tons more impact in the bass than the Lambdas.  If you're saying the treble on those measures flat I don't know what to tell you though.


----------



## K3cT

No, I definitely could use more treble with the LCD2. That was what I had implied with my post.


----------



## TruBrew

Thanks for the responses. I actually already sold the 2050 set, so there will be no direct comparison in the future. I have a Pioneer SX-950 on the way in, so I am thinking about buying a WEE for the amp. If there is a better alternative in the $500 dollar range I am all ears. I figured eventually I would buy a WES, BH, etc, along with the 009, or whatever the top of the line is at the time. For now I am in school, and can't spend that kind of money. If I sold the LCD-2, HE-6, and Lyr, I am looking at maybe $2200-2400 I would guess. So it definitely has to total under that, and I am not sure I want to sell it all either.
   
  The Realiser is absolutely amazing, and I think everyone should try it, but that's a different story. I know that the higher you go up the Stax line, the better things get, but is it accuracy, or sound that gets better. Even typing the question it feels convoluted. I hope someone can understand what I am asking. Maybe the Omegas are more musical, but are they also less precise, and once again I am not asking if its frequency response graph properly reproduce sounds naturally, but does each frequency get hit quickly, properly and with authority. I guess to put it into a bad hypothetical. If all the Stax had a slat frequency response, so that every pair played them at the identical volume, which one would be best.
   
  Well I have confused myself quite a bit with all the questions. I didn't want to make it seem earlier that I have to have lots of bass, but I don't want it to be absent, just that the headphones can produce it provided they are amped well and EQ'ed properly. I am leaning toward the 507 and WEE for now, but that is  not set in stone. I know what the lambdas feel like, and I have no idea where to try out a set of Omegas in New Orleans. Also Since I may buy the 009 in the future, maybe it would be nice to have the best omegas and lambdas. That may also be pointless. 
   
  Thanks for all the help so far, and look forward to hearing some new thoughts.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Thanks for the responses. I actually already sold the 2050 set, so there will be no direct comparison in the future. I have a Pioneer SX-950 on the way in, so I am thinking about buying a WEE for the amp. If there is a better alternative in the $500 dollar range I am all ears. I figured eventually I would buy a WES, BH, etc, along with the 009, or whatever the top of the line is at the time. For now I am in school, and can't spend that kind of money. If I sold the LCD-2, HE-6, and Lyr, I am looking at maybe $2200-2400 I would guess. So it definitely has to total under that, and I am not sure I want to sell it all either.
> 
> The Realiser is absolutely amazing, and I think everyone should try it, but that's a different story. I know that the higher you go up the Stax line, the better things get, but is it accuracy, or sound that gets better. Even typing the question it feels convoluted. I hope someone can understand what I am asking. Maybe the Omegas are more musical, but are they also less precise, and once again I am not asking if its frequency response graph properly reproduce sounds naturally, but does each frequency get hit quickly, properly and with authority. I guess to put it into a bad hypothetical. If all the Stax had a slat frequency response, so that every pair played them at the identical volume, which one would be best.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think a 323S would be a better choice than the WEE, more linear sound with lower distortion. It is a question of taste whether one finds the Omega or the 507 more 'accurate', basically every headphone have a certain character of its own and it is also dependent on what the listener is used to. But it is no doubt that when properly driven the Omegas are much weightier than the Lambdas.


----------



## TruBrew

I contacted a person on head-fi about buying a SRM-1/Mk-2. Should that be able to power the 507 well?


----------



## svyr

trubrew said:


> I contacted a person on head-fi about buying a SRM-1/Mk-2. Should that be able to power the 507 well?




yes. Replace the old power section electrolytic caps though


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I contacted a person on head-fi about buying a SRM-1/Mk-2. Should that be able to power the 507 well?


 


 Consider a SRM-T1 as well. On normal bias lambda's it beats my SRM-1/Mk2 (p.p.) by a fair margin.
  Same comment as on the SRM-1/Mk2: replace old caps.
  Extra bonus: SRM-T1 can be converted to take ECC99 tubes (like SRM-600 Limited). Should be even more beatiful...


----------



## svyr

knijsterbek said:


> Consider a SRM-T1 as well. On normal bias lambda's it beats my SRM-1/Mk2 (p.p.) by a fair margin.
> Same comment as on the SRM-1/Mk2: replace old caps.
> Extra bonus: SRM-T1 can be converted to take ECC99 tubes (like SRM-600 Limited). Should be even more beatiful...




for pro-bias, couldn't tell much of a difference between 600 ltd and smr-1/mk2 on sr-507  in the melb meet ... Plus SRM-1/mk2 can be converted to balanced inputs (see spritzer  )


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Plus SRM-1/mk2 can be converted to balanced inputs (see spritzer
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

  SRM-T1 can also be converted to balanced inputs. The circuit board layout is prepared for it.


----------



## Jodet

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Thanks for the responses. I actually already sold the 2050 set, so there will be no direct comparison in the future. I have a Pioneer SX-950 on the way in, so I am thinking about buying a WEE for the amp. If there is a better alternative in the $500 dollar range I am all ears. I figured eventually I would buy a WES, BH, etc, along with the 009, or whatever the top of the line is at the time. For now I am in school, and can't spend that kind of money. If I sold the LCD-2, HE-6, and Lyr, I am looking at maybe $2200-2400 I would guess. So it definitely has to total under that, and I am not sure I want to sell it all either.
> 
> The Realiser is absolutely amazing, and I think everyone should try it, but that's a different story. I know that the higher you go up the Stax line, the better things get, but is it accuracy, or sound that gets better. Even typing the question it feels convoluted. I hope someone can understand what I am asking. Maybe the Omegas are more musical, but are they also less precise, and once again I am not asking if its frequency response graph properly reproduce sounds naturally, but does each frequency get hit quickly, properly and with authority. I guess to put it into a bad hypothetical. If all the Stax had a slat frequency response, so that every pair played them at the identical volume, which one would be best.
> 
> ...


 



 I have a pair of 507's.   I had a WEE.   Now I have a 323S.   I'm MUCH happier with my 323S.


----------



## AudioCats

the MK2 runs pretty hot, make sure you only use it in an air-conditioned environment during the summer.
  Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I contacted a person on head-fi about buying a SRM-1/Mk-2. Should that be able to power the 507 well?


----------



## TruBrew

Spritzer is selling a SRM-T1, and I think I am going to buy that one. It seems to be in great shape, and he can set it up with the ECC99. How do you tell if the headphones are Pro or normal bias. I am sure it is a simple determination, but I don't know what it is.


----------



## padam

5 vs 6 pin plug termination.


----------



## TruBrew

that's is easy enough, thanks.
   
  I asked Spritzer, but I think I will ask everyone here as well. What does the SRM-T1, with the ECC99 compare closest too in the current lineup. There is very little information about the amp, and I would like to know some more about what I am buying.


----------



## padam

http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRM600limited_e.html


----------



## svyr

audiocats said:


> the MK2 runs pretty hot, make sure you only use it in an air-conditioned environment during the summer.




hmm, well I used it on 30-38 degree days without aircon...
Also, you can potentially buy a used Mk2 for about $300 cheaper than T1  

hm, nice the T1 ad says spritzer can convert it to EC tubes... Probably not free though


----------



## AudioCats

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 the main concern is if the internal temp gets too high it will _greatly_ reduce electrolytic's life expectancy. It is not an immediate failure.


----------



## svyr

audiocats said:


> the main concern is if the internal temp gets too high it will _greatly_ reduce electrolytic's life expectancy. It is not an immediate failure.




105 *C caps inside for all of them, unless you replace with lower grade ones... I suppose the difference is whatever the manufacturer rates the caps for 50 vs 70 *C 
Is cap life quoted a straight figure? (i.e. say 2000h without pause at 105 *C) or some sort of dodgy weighted average, where the real life at 105 *C is something like 200h, and progressively gets more as the temperature is lowered?
Or is it 2000h at 105 *C then a set of multipliers for lower temps?
Also, 10-20 hours/year at higher temp, would it make that much of a difference since the quoted expected lives are for conts use for the rated time (no storage, or lower temp cycles?)


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Thanks for the responses. I actually already sold the 2050 set, so there will be no direct comparison in the future. I have a Pioneer SX-950 on the way in, so I am thinking about buying a WEE for the amp. If there is a better alternative in the $500 dollar range I am all ears. I figured eventually I would buy a WES, BH, etc, along with the 009, or whatever the top of the line is at the time. For now I am in school, and can't spend that kind of money. If I sold the LCD-2, HE-6, and Lyr, I am looking at maybe $2200-2400 I would guess. So it definitely has to total under that, and I am not sure I want to sell it all either.
> 
> The Realiser is absolutely amazing, and I think everyone should try it, but that's a different story. I know that the higher you go up the Stax line, the better things get, but is it accuracy, or sound that gets better. Even typing the question it feels convoluted. I hope someone can understand what I am asking. Maybe the Omegas are more musical, but are they also less precise, and once again I am not asking if its frequency response graph properly reproduce sounds naturally, but does each frequency get hit quickly, properly and with authority. I guess to put it into a bad hypothetical. If all the Stax had a slat frequency response, so that every pair played them at the identical volume, which one would be best.
> 
> ...


 

  
  I thought any proper Stax amp would be better than a combination of a transformer and a speaker amp.
   
  The SRM-1/MK2 is a great budget "proper" Stax amp and would do fine if you're specifically using it with the Lambdas.
   
  In my honest opinion, just go for the Omegas if you have the budget as the leap from Lambda to Omega is MASSIVE. The SR404LE despite its weird quirks remains as the Lambda with the best technicalities that I've heard and even then, I thought the LCD2/HE6 pretty much trumps it in general. The O2s though, present another leap from the top-tier planar magnetic. Admittedly, I've only heard the O2s from a KGSS so I'm not sure how its performance if fed from a worse amplifier would compare to a well-driven LCD2/HE6. I can confirm that the eXstata can't drive the O2 MK1 (bass too flabby).


----------



## Tidal

What do I get when upgrading from 2050A to 3050A?
   
  I just get the used 2050A and quite satisfied with the sound it produces. However, I have ordered a new 3050A from Japan last month and it's near its arrival. I'm now confused whether I should open the package and sell the 2050A or keep 2050A and sell the 3050A unopened as a brand new. I know that the more one pays, the better he gets. So this is all about cost performance. Also, I want to keep only one set, and budget got from selling are converted to a decent DAC as I have no DAC now.
   
  I listen to Classical musics from DVD player right now (it has coax and optical output). I also have tons of tracks in my MacBook. So the DAC is inevitably essential, and it has to be with USB and coax or optical input.
   
  In my opinion, 2050A has a great imaging, excellent mids and highs (I'm very impressed with Bach Violin Sonatas and Partitas. It produces a natural, abundant and realistic sounds). However, I would be glad if it gives wider dynamic range and larger stage. Would 3050A do that?


----------



## MayaTlab

Quote: 





tidal said:


> What do I get when upgrading from 2050A to 3050A?
> 
> In my opinion, 2050A has a great imaging, excellent mids and highs (I'm very impressed with Bach Violin Sonatas and Partitas. It produces a natural, abundant and realistic sounds). However, I would be glad if it gives wider dynamic range and larger stage. Would 3050A do that?


 

 I did not try the same systems (SR 207 + 252S vs SR 507 + 323S) but I guess they're still similar.
   
  Going from the first system to the second did give me :
   
  - More bass control
  - Slightly more bass impact
  - More refined sound (less dry, wetter)
  - More microdetails
  - A little more dynamics
  - Better imaging (though I still felt it to lack center focus and depth, seemms to be a common trait to lambdas). Soundstage might have been slightly wider.
   
  Sound signature remained very close.
   
  Of course the xx7 line up is different, so don't go too quickly to conclusions.


----------



## reiserFS

That's interesting, is there any noticable profit by doing so (besides the higher gain input level)?
  
  Quote: 





knijsterbek said:


> SRM-T1 can also be converted to balanced inputs. The circuit board layout is prepared for it.


----------



## Knijsterbek

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> That's interesting, is there any noticable profit by doing so (besides the higher gain input level)?


 

 Apart from the common balanced vs unbalanced discussion (better noise shielding, etc.):
   
  If the source is a true balanced design, signal/sound quality could profit from it because 2 conversions are cut out (balanced to unbalanced and unbalanced to balanced) as all Stax amps are balanced designs.
   
  With more "voltage swing", it should be better suited to drive the "more difficult to drive" phones.
  
  As I have balanced sources, mine is still waiting to be converted to balanced (and to take ECC99 tubes, etc...), if I could only find the time.


----------



## spritzer

The only benefits from XLR inputs come with the higher input voltages and thus more voltage swing.  As for the ECC99's, I quite like them...


----------



## reiserFS

Thanks spritzer, just what I wanted to hear 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote:


spritzer said:


> The only benefits from XLR inputs come with the higher input voltages and thus more voltage swing.  As for the ECC99's, I quite like them...


----------



## Tidal

Thank you MayaTlab, this seems to be 'slightly' different. Maybe it's better not to open the box...
  
  Quote: 





mayatlab said:


> I did not try the same systems (SR 207 + 252S vs SR 507 + 323S) but I guess they're still similar.
> 
> Going from the first system to the second did give me :
> 
> ...


----------



## nick n

THIS...PLACE....IS...BAD.
  ( in a good way ).I would *honestly* like to think this is IT. _No MORE_ purchases. I keep saying that.
   I am now the proud owner, assuming they get here, of a set of white SR-5's with an SRD-6 adapter. The final moments of the fleabay auction saw me sweating and had my heart racing worse than when I used to play Day of Defeat games in , well , clan matches . There I said it  hahah. Sad days indeed back then.
   
  I wasn't sure if these are deserving of posting in the HIGH END AUDIO section, but rather than start some new thread like many do I put it here.
   Here are the pics I saved from the auction page to archive from that most excellent of ebay experiences.
   




  The third image down shows the fraying on the cable ( good excuse to replace/mod eventually )  that is minor with no conductors exposed, and a pin was replaced on the earcup, which I can tweak later. Apparently they work just fine, and were just tested after not being used for a few years.
   
  Honestly I feel like this isn't real, like i'm dreaming. Talk about *nerd moment* I need to post in that thread.
   As far as I read these have the thicker mylar @ 5 ?
   
*Oh they came to a grand total before actual shipping , of $100 US.*  For some reason they were in a strange part of eaby and didn't show up in the headphone search , maybe because it was typed with the brackets right beside the word =====> (headphones) Only a Stax search would find them I think..
   
  Did I do well?  Tell me I did. tell me I did! haha
   I think I am dreaming.


----------



## n3rdling

Ya that's a pretty good price.  I love that little headphone, I still have mine.  Don't forget you need a speaker amp to power the SRD6.  Sometime down the line you can always get a normal bias Lambda to plug into that SRD6 and I bet you'll be pretty amazed.


----------



## nick n

I have an EL84 tube AA-151 that has a preamp and amp in each channel. Should work fine I'd say. And a Sony SS.
   
  "down the line you can always get a normal bias Lambda to plug into that SRD6 and I bet you'll be pretty amazed.  "
   
  Sounds like a great idea. _Thanks for the info_ on that option, this compatibility is all still new territory to me.


----------



## n3rdling

Yup.  It also happens to be the cheapest Lambda as well.   As for the SR5, I don't think you'll find a better headphone for the money.


----------



## MayaTlab

Quote: 





tidal said:


> Thank you MayaTlab, this seems to be 'slightly' different. Maybe it's better not to open the box...


 

 Yes indeed, slightly is the word. BUT everything improves at least "slightly". When you go from one headphone to another, some thing might improve dramatically, others stagnate or even regress. I was impressed by the consistency of the current Stax line up as going for the model above is not a question of sound signature but just technicalities.
   
  Of course do whatever you want with that box. It seems you're waiting for someone to tell you what to do or to unbalance your mood swings between opening it or not , but ultimately it is your decision.


----------



## Sundance

Does anyone know how to independently control the left and right channels on the Stax amps? I've noticed my SRM-717 has a diagram depicting that the knob provides this function. But how do I turn the knob for left or right? If this sounds confusing, the amp only has one knob but apparently one segment is for left and the other is for right. However, turning the knob provides balanced volume adjustment. What am I not seeing?


----------



## Gu Sensei

I have the 717 and have been playing with that just now. The big knob is actually two layered knobs- a front one and a back one. Look down at the top of the knob and you will see the two layers (I found a picture that shows this- see below). Hold the back thicker layer in place with the thumb and index finger from hand and you can turn the front thin layer independently with the other hand.


----------



## Sundance

Wow, thank you! I thought of this suggestion but it was too stiff at first. Secondly, how would you rebalance both channels if you do not wish to keep the setting? Would you twist both segments back to zero?
   
  Your 717 is a bit different from mine. Mine has vents on top. Won't the machine get hot or are there other vents that I'm seeing?


----------



## Gu Sensei

Quote: 





sundance said:


> Wow, thank you! I thought of this suggestion but it was too stiff at first. Secondly, how would you rebalance both channels if you do not wish to keep the setting? Would you twist both segments back to zero?


 
  Yep, just twist each dial all the way back to zero.
  
  Quote: 





sundance said:


> Your 717 is a bit different from mine. Mine has vents on top. Won't the machine get hot or are there other vents that I'm seeing?


 
  That is not my 717 (or even a 717!) It is just a picture with a good angle on the knob that I grabbed from the web.
   
  Glad it worked for you though.


----------



## 3210

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The speed of chemical reactions doubles when the temperature is increased by 10 degrees celsius (Arrhenius Law),
  so the lifetime doubles with every 10 degrees less working temperature (thereby, just for example, 
  105°C caps will live four times longer than 85°C caps (at 85°C)).


----------



## schorsch

Some usefull information on old stax equpment
   
  It's mostly German
   
  http://new-hifi-classic.de/Gallery_MO/thumbnails.php?album=246
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## heycarnut

_"The speed of chemical reactions doubles when the temperature is increased by 10 degrees celsius (Arrhenius Law),_
_so the lifetime doubles with every 10 degrees less working temperature (thereby, just for example, _
_105°C caps will live four times longer than 85°C caps (at 85°C))."_
   
   
  Nope. That is a *very* rough rule of thumb that has little applicability for capacitor lifespan. Use of the Arrhenius equation requires real data, usually experimentally derived, to give valid results, Otherwise, thumbtimes true, thumbtimes not.
   
  You can find operating T / Rated T vs failure time datasheets at many manufacturer / distributor sites.
   
  Here's some typical data from a manufacturer of hardware, comparing electrolytics to solids. Note it is more like 2-3X per 10C:
   

   *Average Lifespan of Solid Caps. vs. Electrolytic Caps*
     
 *Temp°C*
  Electrolytic Capacitors
 (Working Hours)
  Solid Capacitors (Working Hours)
  95◦C
  4,000 Hrs
  6,324 Hrs
  1.5X longer
  85◦C
  8,000 Hrs
  20,000 Hrs
  2.5X longer
  75◦C
  16,000 Hrs
  63,245 Hrs
  4X longer
  65◦C
  32,000 Hrs
  200,000 Hrs
  6.25X longer


----------



## 3210

The data you posted shows that lifetime of electrolytics doubles with every 10°C.
   
  I'm focussed on lifetime vs temperature here without regarding other parameters/effects/types etc.
   
  Laws of nature don't require real data to be right, even reality is typically complex by use.
   
  If you are an engineer, it will be probably best to look at datasheets.
   
   
    
   
  Quote:


heycarnut said:


> _"The speed of chemical reactions doubles when the temperature is increased by 10 degrees celsius (Arrhenius Law),_
> _so the lifetime doubles with every 10 degrees less working temperature (thereby, just for example, _
> _105°C caps will live four times longer than 85°C caps (at 85°C))."_
> 
> ...


----------



## soundoholic

In relation to the post of K3cT from the last page I cannot agree with the conclusion "any proper Stax amp would be better than a combination of a transformer and a speaker amp." It´s simple false. Actually I received an energiser including the Lundahls LL-1630. This LRT-1630 of my design with many options, I can switch optionally from 580V to 630V BIAS. I must say, this box with Accuphase 406 amp provides unbeatable sound for my many lambdas and omegas. I forgot my 717 and a new 007t II. The stage, air, reality, bass, dynamics and more I receive now, let me easily forget other Stax amps. Not only with the reference SR-Omega (temporary in my stuff),  but also with the 007 Mk1 at this combo I hear now to the new unknown world.


----------



## svyr

soundoholic said:


> In relation to the post of K3cT from the last page I cannot agree with the conclusion "any proper Stax amp would be better than a combination of a transformer and a speaker amp." It´s simple false. Actually I received an energiser including the Lundahls LL-1630. This LRT-1630 of my design with many options, I can switch optionally from 580V to 630V BIAS. I must say, this box with Accuphase 406 amp provides unbeatable sound for my many lambdas and omegas. I forgot my 717 and a new 007t II. The stage, air, reality, bass, dynamics and more I receive now, let me easily forget other Stax amps. Not only with the reference SR-Omega (temporary in my stuff),  but also with the 007 Mk1 at this combo I hear now to the new unknown world.




hehe, Peter's build? How much did that set you back, if you don't me asking? (4-600 EUR?). Basic idea from http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/stax_transf.html (I think spritzer previously mentioned that one), but obviously with the adjustable bias and input switches?


----------



## soundoholic

Yupp, you´re right, svyr. It is Peter´s new box thanks Ciuffoli old project, but with another supply solution and options.


----------



## svyr

soundoholic said:


> Yupp, you´re right, svyr. It is Peter´s new box thanks Ciuffoli old project, but with another supply solution and options.




m, some sort of linear PSU with a toroidal by the looks of it? (what sort ?) I presume the PSU is for the bias/leds, since the rest look passive(input->L+L- and R+R- via the Lundahls )?
Looks very nice. Haven't seen previous Peter's builds use leds to indicate selected input.


----------



## soundoholic

PSU is regulated, two BIAS voltages (the second one can be variable: "S-PRO"), Lundahls feeded directly, special cables, relais and, and.


----------



## padam

How much better do you think it is compared to the SRD7Mk2?


----------



## TruBrew

Do most of you guys cover your stax, or do you just leave them sitting out?


----------



## soundoholic

Padam, what a difficult question. And not so much. On second terminals sits SRD-7 Mk2, so I can quickly change. I hear a real difference, my friend does the same. It would be hmmm.. to describe as more clarity, lucidity - especially in low mids; more strong bass and more precise more fast; 007 Mk1 plays without veil, with full dynamics... And Lundahls need another 50 houers to be much more better. But just now, it is a fable.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> In relation to the post of K3cT from the last page I cannot agree with the conclusion "any proper Stax amp would be better than a combination of a transformer and a speaker amp." It´s simple false. Actually I received an energiser including the Lundahls LL-1630. This LRT-1630 of my design with many options, I can switch optionally from 580V to 630V BIAS. I must say, this box with Accuphase 406 amp provides unbeatable sound for my many lambdas and omegas. I forgot my 717 and a new 007t II. The stage, air, reality, bass, dynamics and more I receive now, let me easily forget other Stax amps. Not only with the reference SR-Omega (temporary in my stuff),  but also with the 007 Mk1 at this combo I hear now to the new unknown world.


 


  That's nice and all but the real question is can it beat the KGSS or BHSE?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> That's nice and all but the real question is can it beat the KGSS or BHSE?


 

 Nope.  I've built one unit based on LL1630's and two based on the LL1627's and while they are very good for transformers the dedicated amps do everything better.  Still if one has a good speaker amp you could certainly do a lot worse.


----------



## Jodet

Can anyone tell me if the pass-thru rca's on the 323S require the unit to be turned on to work?


----------



## dukja

I don't think so since they are always electrically connected.
  
  Quote: 





jodet said:


> Can anyone tell me if the pass-thru rca's on the 323S require the unit to be turned on to work?


 

 Mine was sitting here for two days.  Still waiting for my step-down transformer or Spritzer's instruction...


----------



## AudioCats

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nope.  I've built one unit based on LL1630's and two based on the LL1627's .........


 


 have you tried any amorphous core LL's? any major improvements over the standard version?


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Can anyone tell me if the pass-thru rca's on the 323S require the unit to be turned on to work?


 
   
  Quote: 





dukja said:


> I don't think so since they are always electrically connected.


 

 Indeed, they are electrically connected. No need to turn the unit on for pass-thru.


----------



## Jodet

Quote: 





purrin said:


> Indeed, they are electrically connected. No need to turn the unit on for pass-thru.


 
   
   
  That's a good thing.   Then I could get an Anedio D1, run it into the 323S and then into my power amp.   The D1 would run my ATH-W1000X's, and the Stax amp.
   
  The Stax amp runs so hot I wouldn't want to run it all the time I was using the main amp/speakers.


----------



## lyramax

I don't know about the 323S, but for the 006tS amp, there is a note  on the use of Parallel Out saying:

 "When the preamplifier/integrated amplifier connected to Parallel Out is powered off, sound might be distorted due to lowered impedance. In this case either power on the preamplifier/integrated amplifier or disconnect the cable. If another driver unit is connected to the Parallel Out, turn down is volume to minimum to avoid lowering the impedance".

 Does this mean that in the Parallel Out configuration both amps need to be "On" to minimize potential distortion?


----------



## Stein

I apologize if this isn't the place for this, but is it possible to get SR-202 or any other working headbands (The whole plastic part) anywhere?
   
  I've murdered my Stax by having the cord pulled off my desk, but they're in perfect working condition aside from not actually being attached to the headband...
   
  Any help would be _greatly_ appreciated.
   
  Pictured below is my sad excuse for a pair of headphones. 
   
  EDIT: I see that Audiocubes has them for $130, but that seems absurd for just a bit of plastic. Are there any other options?


----------



## svyr

post a wtb ad. Check w spritzer on the type. I think it can use a x0x headband or a lns headband.
Thats how i got one to use w my 507 when i disliked the stock headband


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nope.  I've built one unit based on LL1630's and two based on the LL1627's and while they are very good for transformers the dedicated amps do everything better.  Still if one has a good speaker amp you could certainly do a lot worse.


 
  Amen. You can all believe it, I believe my ears. I have three my own dedicated amps: 717, 007t II and a very good DIYamp. I check these everyday in comparison with Accu amp plus LRT Transformer. No doubts, no hesitation what is better. Perhaps KGSS and BHSE are better, perhaps...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> have you tried any amorphous core LL's? any major improvements over the standard version?


 

 No major improvements that I heard.  What I want to try are bifilar wound transformers like they did back in the day.  Shame almost nobody can make them now...


----------



## AudioCats

hmm, not much difference, eh
   
  Bifila is good for high current low voltage applications, ES step-up has too much voltage for bifila, the differential between adjacent wires will be way too high for the magnet wire insulation to handle....unless you use thick stuff like 600V rated teflon tubing.


----------



## John Buchanan

You should be able to order the case holders separately from a Stax dealer. They are secured by a pin that has to be removed with a fine punch.
  Quote: 





stein said:


> I apologize if this isn't the place for this, but is it possible to get SR-202 or any other working headbands (The whole plastic part) anywhere?
> 
> I've murdered my Stax by having the cord pulled off my desk, but they're in perfect working condition aside from not actually being attached to the headband...
> 
> ...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> You should be able to order the case holders separately from a Stax dealer. They are secured by a pin that has to be removed with a fine punch.


 
   
  If you can find a stax dealer that is not incompetent...


----------



## soundoholic

Quote: 





audiocats said:


> hmm, not much difference, eh   ...


 

  
  I read about and appreciate your Lundahl-project. I personally think, that with very good recabling to/from LL and better amp you can achieve more difference than with other type of transformer. I made some experiences with my three SRD Boxes (6 SB, 7 PRO, 7 Mk2) and many amps. As spritzer indirectly mentioned, there' re many setups worse or much worse to the dedicated amps, I agree.


----------



## dukja

My step-down transformer came in today and finally I can listen to the new SRM-323S the 1st time with my sr-407.   I had quick comparison with my restoration-in-process SRM-1 MK2 PP with balanced mod by spritzer.  The results are certainly very interesting.
   
  The sound of 323S is quite rich and smooth at the same time.  The bass is a step up in terms of the resolution and depth.  The sheer amount of bass is quite enjoyable.  Certainly the impact and solidness of bass is weaker than Beyer T1, but the amount and depth is quite different level. The high and mid are detailed and yet very smooth.  I can even listen to The Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl with any ear strain at all, which was not possible with T1.  In some sense, 407+323S combo gives me the easiness and smoothness of DT880/600 and yet the detail and resolution of T1.  At the same time, I got the extra bass amount and depth as bonus.  Very nice!!
   
  And the comparison to SRM-1 MK2 PP is also very interesting.  The SRM-1 is leaner which is very interesting to compare.  I can see that it can use some upgrades.  However, the balanced mode of SRM-1 is quite different.  The soundstage opens up with excellent openess and freshness.  This is one of my favorite traits of balanced operation. 
   
  Maybe it is a good idea to mode SRM 323S take balanced input...


----------



## purk

Quote: 





dukja said:


> My step-down transformer came in today and finally I can listen to the new SRM-323S the 1st time with my sr-407.   I had quick comparison with my restoration-in-process SRM-1 MK2 PP with balanced mod by spritzer.  The results are certainly very interesting.
> 
> The sound of 323S is quite rich and smooth at the same time.  The bass is a step up in terms of the resolution and depth.  The sheer amount of bass is quite enjoyable.  Certainly the impact and solidness of bass is weaker than Beyer T1, but the amount and depth is quite different level. The high and mid are detailed and yet very smooth.  I can even listen to The Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl with any ear strain at all, which was not possible with T1.  In some sense, 407+323S combo gives me the easiness and smoothness of DT880/600 and yet the detail and resolution of T1.  At the same time, I got the extra bass amount and depth as bonus.  Very nice!!
> 
> ...


 
   
  I'm using the 323S with the OII with very nice results as well.  The OII out of the SRM-323S is a big step up in every category compared to the T1W and my HEV90.  The combo is very enjoyable and I believe that Stax is selling the SRM-323S for such a low price.  Wish I have the KGSS for a comparison.


----------



## lyramax

Speaking of the 323: anyone knows what is the difference between the 323S and the previous version 323II?


----------



## padam

Q.: my friend measured about 180V bias on an old SRD-5 bundled with an SR-3 New that he just got.
   
  It is safe to run those at 230V bias or is it best to have them run an original (if yes, why)? Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

All the pre SR-Sigma normal bias phones were designed for 200V bias (save for the earliest SR-1's which used 150V) but Stax later changed it to 230V.   There was no change in the D/S gap so all the older phones are perfectly safe at 230V.


----------



## dukja

It seems that the new 323S has twice of gain of 323A according to Stax page (60dB vs 54dB).  That was also the reason I choose it over 323A.  323S is also about $50 more expansive and it seems that it is worthy.

  
  Quote: 





lyramax said:


> Speaking of the 323: anyone knows what is the difference between the 323S and the previous version 323II?


----------



## norcoc

Hello All,
   
  I am new to this thread, and perhaps I have overseen earlier answers so this is my problem:
   
  i own a Stax SR3 and an SR 5 headphone.
  Both use the same high voltage box ovf the SR 5.
  The SR3 (which I have bought on e-bay) is very quiet and I do not know how to get it louder.
  I have tried it for running over 12 hours, it became a bit louder, but after non use of a day, it was quiet again.
   
  can someone help?
   
  thanks and greetings from Germany!
   
  norcoc


----------



## vvs_75

Is it possible to mode 323A to make the gain to be like 323S?  thanks
  Quote: 





dukja said:


> It seems that the new 323S has twice of gain of 323A according to Stax page (60dB vs 54dB).  That was also the reason I choose it over 323A.  323S is also about $50 more expansive and it seems that it is worthy.


----------



## spritzer

Yes but messing with the gain opens up a large can of worms...


----------



## kevin gilmore

here is the original srm323a schematic
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm323aorig.pdf
   
  here is the new srm323s schematic (in progress, some R#'s and C#'s incorrect, and values)
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm323s.pdf
   
  You should be able to modify the old one to make it look like the new one.


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Yes but messing with the gain opens up a large can of worms...


 


 Then I guess its time to do some fishing.


----------



## svyr

kevin gilmore said:


> here is the original srm323a schematic
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm323aorig.pdf
> 
> here is the new srm323s schematic (in progress, some R#'s and C#'s incorrect, and values)
> ...




Thank you kevin. So they look pretty similar, just some resistors split into 2 in parallel for S, R5/R6 values (270s vs 620a. Gain?), and C1/2/3/4 (10pf on S), TVRs on R2/1 (for S), as well as some transistors being different near the input (Q1,Q1a/b, Q2, Q3, Q4). 

I couldn't find the bias section  ... Am I blind?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 No, not blind.
  Prolly on the psu schemo, not shown.


----------



## svyr

livewire said:


> No, not blind.
> Prolly on the psu schemo, not shown.




oh yea, true. It starts off at 350v ins for power, so the power transformer, diodes and caps are all on another page , along with the bias section...

btw, are the transistors more or less interchangeable? and what's the variable pot for ? (is there one - the TVR?)...there wasn't one previously

Um, doesn't stax sorta mind having the schematics for their new unit posted?


----------



## livewire

The transistors are "interchangeable" if you are referring to the same locations on the two schematics which are referenced.
  I would still obtain datasheets online for any to be exchanged and compare the package pinouts first to avoid incorrect installation.
  The ones to be careful of are the input FET's, they can be single or dual package units and the pinouts are different.
  Also keep in mind that if one is contemplating changing them, they should be matched pairs for the best sound quality.
   
  The variable pots balance the output voltages to 0V referenced to ground.
  The "S" model shown has the second (TVR1) pot that also adjusts the zero volt bias between the (+) and (-) rails.
   
  Keep in mind the schematics shown are for one channel only. Two identical circuits are needed for stereo operation.
   
  I have no idea what Stax may think about others reverse engineering their products.
  If it really bothered them, they could build their amplifiers using epoxy potted modules,
  or at the very least erase the nomenclature from the individual components.
  Still, where there is a will, there is a way to figure it all out and copy the basic design.


----------



## svyr

haha, I don't really own either of the units, just curious. 

>The transistors are "interchangeable" if you are referring to the same locations on the two schematics which are referenced. I would still obtain datasheets online for any to be exchanged and compare the package pinouts first to avoid incorrect installation. The ones to be careful of are the input FET's, they can be single or dual package units and the pinouts are different. Also keep in mind that if one is contemplating changing them, they should be matched pairs for the best sound quality.

Sound advice/mirrors what kevin/spritzer said when I was considering changing the transistors in my SRM-1 (or rather going OMG they iz broken, when I had a DC offset from my source  )


>The variable pots balance the output voltages to 0V referenced to ground. The "S" model shown has the second (TVR1) pot that also adjusts the zero volt bias between the (+) and (-) rails.

sooo, similar pots to SRM-1 then? (bias and offset)


>Keep in mind the schematics shown are for one channel only. Two identical circuits are needed for stereo operation.

makes sense, not enough outs /ins


----------



## spritzer

I don't see why Stax would mind.  Nobody but them can build an amp like this, at this price point so there is no competition.  What would perhaps annoy them a bit would be a tutorial on how anybody who can solder can change the 323S to 117/230V.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  As you might have guessed, that schematic is drawn from internal pics of my unit which I received yesterday.  It is a lovely little amp and certainly the best stock amp Stax have to offer.  It won't beat the KGSS (too diffused, lacking control and detail by comparison) but it is easily better than a 006t.  Sounds just fine with the SR-007A too.


----------



## purk

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I don't see why Stax would mind.  Nobody but them can build an amp like this, at this price point so there is no competition.  What would perhaps annoy them a bit would be a tutorial on how anybody who can solder can change the 323S to 117/230V.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Will a stepped attenuator on the 323S close the gap to the KGSS?  I really enjoy the 323S with the OII and don't have much too complain really, but I agree with your that it isn't the last word in imaging and transparency.  A huge step up from the T1W though.


----------



## dukja

Thanks for your impression on 323S.  So do you think even sr-407 can benefit from KGSS to improve further on the SQ?
   
  I have listen the 407+323S for several days at office and Phoenix+ beyer T1 at home.  It is quite contrast with these two setup.  T1 has quite high/mid resolution, better attack, and highly focused.  407+323S on the other hand is much smoother but less focused.  Still, I enjoy this stax combo a lot, especially with my some brighter recordings such as Gladiator and POTC series.  The bass amount and the hence shifted tonality are what hook me up at this moment.   Certainly, it will be very nice if the focus and clarity of 407 can be further improved with better amp.  It seems I am still waiting for the stax famous transparency and speed to show up on me.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I don't see why Stax would mind.  Nobody but them can build an amp like this, at this price point so there is no competition.  What would perhaps annoy them a bit would be a tutorial on how anybody who can solder can change the 323S to 117/230V.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Amarphael

Djuka, I only heard the T1 briefly (from the SPL Auditor in my setup) but judging from memory i don't think it sounded any clearer than the SR-202 i have... Are you certain your amp is 100% fine? did you check the bias is correct?
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> a tutorial on how anybody who can solder can change the 323S to 117/230V.


 
  Yes Please.


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Djuka, I only heard the T1 briefly (from the SPL Auditor in my setup) but judging from memory i don't think it sounded any clearer than the SR-202 i have... Are you certain your amp is 100% fine? did you check the bias is correct?


 
  Here is the Stax thread and I don't want to hijack the topic.  So just one post.  If you have more question, let's PM.
   
  I have two Stax amps: SRM-1 MK2 PP from a headfier, crumpler, was not working right, but I have fixed it (thanks to spritzer's help) to fully function.  I do plan to upgrade it further since it is balanced.
   
  My SRM-323S and 407 are NEW from Japan.  So no problem at all.  Checking bias?  you must be kidding if I didn't, right? (after all I played with SRM-1) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  From what I read, sr-407 is at least better than sr-202.  So no problem on my stax setup at all here.  All my recent impression was mainly on my 407+323S.
   
  And you really need to own T1 + fully balanced system to get a peek on what it is capable of... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  (Please check T1, Phoenix, Ref1/7 thread for more info)   Our reference point may not be the same. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  OK, now back to Stax stuff...  I am very impressed with 407+323S  and highly enjoy it as long as we are not picky on the attack and focus.  Very complementary to my other gear and it is excellent for long-hour session in the office.
   
   
  And Spritzer just, once again, shared the good news to all on how to re-wire the SRM-323S:
   
  ------------------- from Spritzer ---------------------------------------
   
[size=11pt]1,3,6 is definitely 100 volts[/size]
   
[size=11pt]2,4,6 is definitely 120 volts[/size]
   
[size=11pt]3,5 is definitely 220 volts[/size]
   
[size=11pt]2,5 is definitely 240 volts[/size]
   
[size=11pt]So desolder the links at 1 and 3 and add links to 2 and 4 once the wires (orange & blue wire) have been re-installed. [/size]
  ------------------------------------ enjoy! ----------------------------------


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





purk said:


> Will a stepped attenuator on the 323S close the gap to the KGSS?  I really enjoy the 323S with the OII and don't have much too complain really, but I agree with your that it isn't the last word in imaging and transparency.  A huge step up from the T1W though.


 
   
  I'm not a fan of steppers at all but they are in general an improvement over the Alps RK27.  That said the 323S is made to a budget so I don't see any way of "fixing it" so it would compare against the KGSS.  First thing to go would be the stock PSU and replaced with a fully regulated unit.  Next would be a redesigned output stage for much more current and thus much more heat.  No way to do that in the current chassis...
   
  As a comparison, my KGSS uses a quad volume pot that is actually cheaper than the Alps RK27 but sounds better to these ears.  I'm just too lazy to put a TKD in there... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



    
  Quote:


dukja said:


> Thanks for your impression on 323S.  So do you think even sr-407 can benefit from KGSS to improve further on the SQ?


 
   
  I've never heard a Stax headphone that didn't improve with  better amp so yes, it should be an improvement.


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've never heard a Stax headphone that didn't improve with  better amp so yes, it should be an improvement.


 
   
  Thanks for the confirmation.  I like stuff with potential and definitely think my stax gear will be here to stay.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Just got my HE-6 in house and test-run it for an evening.  Just by the quick impression, I'd say the bass has similar depth quality  but my 407 even has more amount and probably deeper.  It will take more listening for better comparison.  HE-6 does have some secret weapon on its soundstage and very life-like imaging for the classical music work.  I have not yet be able to reproduce that my 407 and 323S.  I'll need some more evening to confirm that it is no my illusion.


----------



## balu_613

Quote: 





dukja said:


> Here is the Stax thread and I don't want to hijack the topic.  So just one post.  If you have more question, let's PM.
> 
> I have two Stax amps: SRM-1 MK2 PP from a headfier, crumpler, was not working right, but I have fixed it (thanks to spritzer's help) to fully function.  I do plan to upgrade it further since it is balanced.
> 
> ...


----------



## kevin gilmore

100 volt version has wires cut at the transformer (purple and blue).  So its a bit more complicated than that.
  various pictures of repaired transformers have been posted. Its always the same thing.
  First restore the 2 cut wires, which can be tricky, then modify the jumpers.
   
   
  complete with power supply
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm323s.pdf


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





balu_613 said:


> What do those numbers represent - is there a diagram or a photograph I should be referring to? I want to get a SRM 323s (100V version) and convert it to 220V, but I am not clear as to what that would require - would I just desolder 1, 3 and 6 and add links to 3 and 5? Also, does anyone have instructions on how to perform a similar conversion for SRM-1/mkII?


 
  I'll try to upload some photo later, which may be more clear.  Or you will know when you open up your 323S.
   
  SRM1 MK2 has different re-wire scheme.  It has been mentioned few pages back.  Sorry, my hands are tied and can do it for you now.


----------



## kiteki

Hello STAX Lovers =)
   
  I'm selling my SRS-3000, please contact me if you're interested.


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





dukja said:


> I'll try to upload some photo later, which may be more clear.  Or you will know when you open up your 323S.
> 
> SRM1 MK2 has different re-wire scheme.  It has been mentioned few pages back.  Sorry, my hands are tied and can do it for you now.


 

 The original instruction for SRM1 MK2 are:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
 [size=11pt] _100v:_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _Gray+White_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _White wire from the  AC plug+Brown+Green_[/size]
 [size=11pt]  [/size]
 [size=11pt] _117v:_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _Gray+White_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple_[/size]
 [size=11pt]  [/size]
 [size=11pt] _240v:_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _Blue+White wire from the AC plug_[/size]
 [size=11pt] _Purple+Gray_[/size]
   
  When you get 323S you will find the transformer with cut wire and numbers on the circuit board like this one:

  .
  You will need to open up the plastic case and resolder the cut wire to the transformer and to the board.  When you turn the board upside down you will see jumpers connecting those numbered wires.  Then follow the instruction Spritzer gave (I suspect the color code may actually agree the SMR-1 instruction if one trace the wire).  The following picture is from spritzer for 240V re-wiring (jumper wires on 3  2 & 5):

   
  All credits go to Spritzer.


----------



## paulchiu

hi all
   
  just placed an order with elusive disc for the SR009, which according to them, will not hit the US until the Fall.
  Any of you in the same boat and any of you have info on a new tube amp for the thing?
   
  thanks from new york,
  paul


----------



## spritzer

To make it more complete, here is a picture of my 323S with the transformer wires attached:


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> hi all
> 
> just placed an order with elusive disc for the SR009, which according to them, will not hit the US until the Fall.
> Any of you in the same boat and any of you have info on a new tube amp for the thing?
> ...


 

 Sorry to hear about the long wait.
   
  As for new tube amps, ED has them in Stax flavors, or try ebay.
  Woo Audio also makes tubular stat amps.
  
  The best production stat amp out there is the Blue Hawaii Special Edition (BHSE).
  I hope you dont mind waiting a year for HeadAmp to build you one.
  There are rumors that they may be able to better their leadtime soon due to a large production run underway.
  They sure are purty (as in a thing of industrial art). Be prepared to spend $5 to $6K depending on options.


----------



## nick n

I just got my SR-5 with an SRD-6 box and was wondering if extending the speaker hookup wires on the rear will have much if any unforseen effect. Nothing excessive.  Are there some issues with the circuitry that it will bug, I'm leaning to a NO but why not take the time to double check first.
  Would it be in any way beneficial to_ rewire_ them completely with a slightly larger gauge  to compensate for the extra length ( 4-6 ft. ) or will this potentially also affect something I don't know about. I doubt there'd be anything wrong with this as the box is basically just a switch with a passthrough for speakers, but on the inner guts side of things I have no idea. The bigger gauge can only let the signal pass easier as with a typical run of regular speaker wire so far as I am concerned.
   That way I could also keep the original wiring in case of future sale.
   
  Yes I searched around already but couldn't find an answer
  Wanted to be overly cautious here. No idea how the innards are setup to feed the phones.
   
  Thanks


----------



## n3rdling

Shouldn't matter


----------



## nick n

Thanks! Anytime's a good time for solder.


----------



## schorsch

Hello,
   
  I've got a question about an SRX-MKIII earspeaker. It has got PRO-sockets and it works with my PRO amps. I thought the SRX MkIII was a NORMAL bias Modell?!
   
  Any comments on this?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## AudioCats

nice, a natural-born SRX3-PRO. Pictures?


----------



## spritzer

There is indeed a Pro bias version of the SR-X Mk3 which you can recognize by the modern Stax logo on it.  I've also modified quite a few normal bias sets over the years by installing Gamma Pro drivers and combining the bias lines inside the cable to make it Pro bias.


----------



## edstrelow

I have had to trim the elastic on the 007A headband for the third time in a little less than 3 years because it has stretched and the phones have ended up slipping down my head.  This is not a difficult fix though and the sound really perks up when the earcups are in the right position. 
   
  I wonder how much of the dissatisfaction with these phones relates to  poor positioning on the head?  That and getting the rotating earpads set up for the best sound.  I have changed the orientation slightly over the years such that the seam on the pads is about eye-level, i.e. about the  1:00 position.


----------



## n3rdling

Pad placement is a big issue.  By the end of meets you'll sometimes see the pads in completely different orientations from one another.  I always try to make sure people have the pads on correctly when I bring my set to meets to avoid this issue.


----------



## arnaud

In my case, I also noticed (both 007 and to a lesser extent 009) that glasses (rather thick frame) just don't do well with stax earpads. Unless the fit is perfect, there is significant increase in lower midbass for the 007A which make it sound loose. For the SR009, it's not that significant (maybe because the pads are softer) but I noticed a decrease in bass when wearing glasses (e.g. breaking the seal).  So I end up wearing my glasses such that the frame sits on top of the earpad. I must be looking pretty ridiculous, but hey, gotta to what you gotta do .


----------



## El_Doug

so YOURE the one who destroyed all those beautiful gamma pros!?   
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is indeed a Pro bias version of the SR-X Mk3 which you can recognize by the modern Stax logo on it.  I've also modified quite a few normal bias sets over the years by installing Gamma Pro drivers and combining the bias lines inside the cable to make it Pro bias.


----------



## Ra97oR

Going to receive a pair of SR-404 Signature soon, with SRM-300. Last time in Japan, I listened to the SR-404LE through a SRM-727 and totally loved it. Any majar difference from 404 Sig to 404 LE, save the earpads, colour and cables. I can't excately afford a 727/717 right away, any noticeable upgrades for the SRM-300 or leave it as it is? One more thing, I heard many of you have taken that foam on the back off, will dust and other stuff be a problem?


----------



## n3rdling

The 404LE is generally preferred to the 404 and I'd leave the foam in but you can always try it both ways.  Enjoy the new rig!


----------



## svyr

ra97or said:


> Going to receive a pair of SR-404 Signature soon, with SRM-300. Last time in Japan, I listened to the SR-404LE through a SRM-727 and totally loved it. Any majar difference from 404 Sig to 404 LE, save the earpads, colour and cables. I can't excately afford a 727/717 right away, any noticeable upgrades for the SRM-300 or leave it as it is? One more thing, I heard many of you have taken that foam on the back off, will dust and other stuff be a problem?




leave the foam on (bright enough as is + protect drivers from dust, or rather small lose objects entering the earcup). 
You can ask spritzer about the 404 vs LE, but I think the drivers are different as well. (the sound is more neutral, with better bass extension. 404 is 'a bit crazy'  but still enjoyable for a lot of people.)
Get an SRM-1/mk2. It's relatively affordable, and that's what I went up to from SMR-300 that was relatively underpowered for my liking.


----------



## Ra97oR

svyr said:


> ra97or said:
> 
> 
> > Going to receive a pair of SR-404 Signature soon, with SRM-300. Last time in Japan, I listened to the SR-404LE through a SRM-727 and totally loved it. Any majar difference from 404 Sig to 404 LE, save the earpads, colour and cables. I can't excately afford a 727/717 right away, any noticeable upgrades for the SRM-300 or leave it as it is? One more thing, I heard many of you have taken that foam on the back off, will dust and other stuff be a problem?
> ...




IIRC, it is actually your old set. :rolleyes:

Thinking of getting some 507/404LE earpads for them first. From my experience, changing earpads can greatly affect the sound, AD1000PRM/AD2000 difference and a few more.


----------



## svyr

ra97or said:


> svyr said:
> 
> 
> > ra97or said:
> ...




It is. (upgraded the amp to SRM-1mk2 then Transistorampv3, and HP to 507, hence sold the 300/404)
It took a while to adjust to the 507 sound after 404. I found it too dark for a couple of weeks, even 2 months or so. (but 404 was bright enough to use with a NOS DAC  and was fairly unbearable on DAC1/ D100 )

Pads certainly seem to alter the sound significantly. More so than cables  and have actual 'wear-in'


----------



## jaycalgary

I am pretty shocked to hear that the 507's are dark now. It did not seem like there were lots of reviews on here. Something like hearing that they are dark compared to 404's and taking months to adjust?
  Does everything have to get sugar coated for the 1st year? Seems like the same thing with the 009.


----------



## svyr

jaycalgary said:


> I am pretty shocked to hear that the 507's are dark now. It did not seem like there were lots of reviews on here. Something like hearing that they are dark compared to 404's and taking months to adjust?
> Does everything have to get sugar coated for the 1st year? Seems like the same thing with the 009.




I think after a year of SR-404 and EX700 I needed some serious bright HP rehab


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Does everything have to get sugar coated for the 1st year? Seems like the same thing with the 009.


 
   
  Not sure how you could get to this conclusion about the 009? As far as I can read, absolutely all the impressions posted to date, including my early ones have been saying the exact same thing (brighter than Omega 2, improved soundstage, not as friendly toward average recordings, and so on...). What has happened since the early impressions is that a few more people had their hands on it and could use their own system as reference / sample a much larger library which made the characteristics of the headphone the more clear. However, nothing has fundamentally changed from the release impressions. Else, please correct me, I may have missed some posts!
   
  arnaud


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> so YOURE the one who destroyed all those beautiful gamma pros!?


 

 Yup, quite a few of them too.  Plenty of Alpha units as well and some extremely rare Alpha Pro Excellent's. 


  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I am pretty shocked to hear that the 507's are dark now. It did not seem like there were lots of reviews on here. Something like hearing that they are dark compared to 404's and taking months to adjust?
> Does everything have to get sugar coated for the 1st year? Seems like the same thing with the 009.


 

 I would never call the 507 dark...  very, very bright is more like it...


----------



## jaycalgary

Very confused that that the 507's could be called dark compared to 404's and could take months to adjust. I will find out soon enough though I have a pair of 407's in the mail.
  It's been about 3 months so far though. Sent then sent back then sent to one address and sent from there to my address. To top it all off they were scheduled to be delivered
  today but Canada Post is on strike.  I was hoping to have them for a Calgary meet this weekend but that is looking unlikely. I am am going to bring the homemade sigmas and
  hopefully get an opinion from others how they sound.  They have so much more space between instruments and depth compared to my lambda signatures from what I can tell.
  I think some will find it interesting to hear because I suspect that most have not heard anything even similar in a headphone. They are not insulated the same as sigmas. I had
  insulated the same for a period of time but as soon as I change the shape to like a hump then open in the back it does wow me.


----------



## svyr

spritzer said:


> Yup, quite a few of them too.  Plenty of Alpha units as well and some extremely rare Alpha Pro Excellent's.
> 
> 
> 
> I would never call the 507 dark...  very, very bright is more like it...




compared to LCD-2 maybe, but not 404


----------



## Jodet

I have a question about hooking up my 323S amp.    Since the 323S has it's own volume control, can I feed it with a fixed 'line out' from, say a Peachtree iNova?   Or would that not offer enough gain?  
   
  I'm running it now off the pre-out from a dac, which is obviously a variable output.
   
  Thanks for any comments.  
   
   
  PS:  Yes, I know the iNova has a variable pre-out, but that will be used with a sub.  And I don't want to do the goofy y-adapter thing.   I've never had happy results with splitting a pre-amp signal.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My son likes my APS V3 cabled HD600 with his Millett SSH amp, so I traded them for his LNS and I'm really happy with them.  I'm pretty sure I prefer the Lambda Nova Signature over my previous Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature that I sold a while back, being the closest to what I recall my old 404LE sounding like (also gone).  I thought that my old Lambda Pro had recessed mids, and the Signature were too bright with some upper midrange etch, but the LNS seem to be just right in that regard (closer to the normal bias Lambda).  
   
  They are a bit more forward sounding than the O2, with a smaller and more intimate soundstage, but out of the WES the bass may actually be more balanced and snappier than my O2 (and stronger than the bass from my normal bias Lambda).  I haven't had time to compare to my HE-60 or Smegma Pro yet (woodied Gamma Pro).  With my eXStatA amp the LNS sound a bit dull, bland and lifeless, even though that amp does a nice job with my SR-5 Gold, SR-Lambda and SR-003.  So, I'm going to leave the LNS down in the basement rig to use only with the WES because it just has a lot better synergy in that rig. 
   
  Has anyone compared the LNS directly to the 404LE or the newer 407/507 models?  Out of curiosity, what would you say the similarities and differences are (and with what amp)?


----------



## EddieE

Has anyone who owned or still owns the 404LE and also owns a 404 tried putting the leather Lambda pads on them and compared?


----------



## ACDOAN

I need some help from head-fi veterans. I am fairly new here at headphones. My journey with head-fi has been quite a good learning experience. As a result. I have my fair share of cans collection. The variety of my collection provides me a tremendous pleasure from a low end cans to a mid-end cans. I use them for different occasions and at different time/ moods and mostly with different genre of music.
   
  To make it short, I have been a die hard fan of the old school Martin Logan. My fav are the SL3 and the Aerius I. I am looking for a similar type of sound in a pair of headphone. I have owned Plannar/ribbon but the Electrostatic ML suit my ear the most.
   
  Would the Electrostatic Stax Omega give me the fast transient, deep tight bass, deep soundstage as with the ML?
  Will the Orthos ( Hifiman, Audeze consider as same as the sound signature of the Appogee, Magnapans which is slow and less attack?
   
  I do not need a be-all end all cans but the journey has led me to this point. I need to be enlightned.


----------



## dukja

Those who are interested in the new Lambda's SQ such as 407 may want to read some impression at HE-6 thread.  I think it is very interesting and well said.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/493214/hifiman-he-6-planar-magnetic-headphone/3870#post_7542973


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, it's best to use a fixed line output. A line output is fixed at the maximum and will therefore provide maximum gain and maximum (thus optimal) S/N ratio. If you find the gain too high, you can always switch back to the variable output.
   
  Quote:


jodet said:


> I have a question about hooking up my 323S amp.    Since the 323S has it's own volume control, can I feed it with a fixed 'line out' from, say a Peachtree iNova?   Or would that not offer enough gain?
> 
> I'm running it now off the pre-out from a dac, which is obviously a variable output.
> 
> ...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





ra97or said:


> Going to receive a pair of SR-404 Signature soon, with SRM-300. Last time in Japan, I listened to the SR-404LE through a SRM-727 and totally loved it. Any majar difference from 404 Sig to 404 LE, save the earpads, colour and cables. I can't excately afford a 727/717 right away, any noticeable upgrades for the SRM-300 or leave it as it is? One more thing, I heard many of you have taken that foam on the back off, will dust and other stuff be a problem?


 


   


  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The 404LE is generally preferred to the 404 and I'd leave the foam in but you can always try it both ways.  Enjoy the new rig!


 


   


  Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 I am one of the proponents of removing the back foam from the Lambdas and have done so on my LNS and 404.  This does not make the phones brighter in my opion but rather gets rid of some the squawky upper mid-range/lower treble sound.  As well there is an expansion of the sound stage. 
   
  I came to this conclusion after I  replaced the foam in my LNS foam obtained from the dealer.  I found that I couldn't stand the  sound compared to what I had been hearing  with no or deteriorated foam backing, so I yanked it out.  My guess is that the replacement foam was less acoustically transparent than the original, so there could be some sweet spot with the use of backing.
   
  At any rate it is not hard to remove the foam on the old Lambdas, just peel back the earpads at the corners unscrew the baffle, pull it out a bit and pull the foam off.  I am not sure about the xx7 series.  If the sound doesn't work for you, put it back.


----------



## jaycalgary

I was just looking on ebay for Stax  stuff just for the fun of it when I saw another Srm-1/Mrk-2. That part that strikes me is that I am using the same one and mine is 4 numbers higher in the serial number but
  there is a good amount of differences.
  http://cgi.ebay.com/stax-srm-1-professional-stereo-headphone-amp-amplifier-/180682896393?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a118a3409
   
  The power light is green mine is red, looks like it has extra feet and silver screws instead of black ones. The rca's say in and out but they are wired together on the inside Just brought it up because it seems odd.
  I have 2 all ready so not really needed but if his lambda pro's go reasonable they would make a good start at another pair of sigmas. This is ebay we are talking about though lol


----------



## jaycalgary

I may be as wrong as he day is long on this one but I have a guess at what causes driver imbalances.
  I am guessing that is is how the wires are laying just before they are soldered to the pins of the the drivers.


----------



## John Buchanan

The power light, feet and screws have been replaced, and the owner has hand written "in" and "out" on the back.
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I was just looking on ebay for Stax  stuff just for the fun of it when I saw another Srm-1/Mrk-2. That part that strikes me is that I am using the same one and mine is 4 numbers higher in the serial number but
> there is a good amount of differences.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/stax-srm-1-professional-stereo-headphone-amp-amplifier-/180682896393?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a118a3409
> 
> ...


----------



## sphinxvc

It seems some of you are DIYers or experienced Stax restore[ers]...if one of you were to do this, how much would it be to get a good condition Stax Pro + SRM-MKII (fully restored)?


----------



## TruBrew

Does anyone have experience with either the WES or BHSE powering Lambdas, more specifically, the 507. I don't have the money for either at the moment, but that should change in around a month or two. I plan to eventually buy the SR-009, but likely won't be able to afford that for a few years. I don't know if the improvements I will see are worth it. I will buy one of them eventually, but don't know if I should just wait until I can afford both at the same time. It may not be a bad idea to put the money aside in case my car breaks, and I have to buy a new one.


----------



## K3cT

I think it's better to get the SR-009 first but that's just me.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Does anyone have experience with either the WES or BHSE powering Lambdas, more specifically, the 507. I don't have the money for either at the moment, but that should change in around a month or two. I plan to eventually buy the SR-009, but likely won't be able to afford that for a few years. I don't know if the improvements I will see are worth it. I will buy one of them eventually, but don't know if I should just wait until I can afford both at the same time. It may not be a bad idea to put the money aside in case my car breaks, and I have to buy a new one.


 


  
   


  
  Quote: 





k3ct said:


> I think it's better to get the SR-009 first but that's just me.


 


 Given the reliability probems with the SR009 and its possiby being too bright for some tastes or some music I would go the other way.  The BHSE amp is a highly-regarded state-of-the-art product that will make any phone sound better.


----------



## Hammerzeit

edstrelow said:


> Given the reliability probems with the SR009 and its possiby being too bright for some tastes or some music I would go the other way.  The BHSE amp is a highly-regarded state-of-the-art product that will make any phone sound better.




I agree, I'd wait until the kinks are all fixed before buying the SR009. Imo I'd feel terrible if I have such a high-end headphone being underpowered (ExStata in my case) by an inappropriate amp. Hasn't there been some rumors about a well known builder releasing a stat amp supposedly better than the BHSE? My memory might be faulty but I remember reading it somewhere in head-fi.


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





hammerzeit said:


> > Hasn't there been some rumors about a well known builder releasing a stat amp supposedly better than the BHSE? My memory might be faulty but I remember reading it somewhere in head-fi.


 


 In the same thread you can also read that according to Stat's Mafia based on info what tubes are used in that new amp design,  its not  and never will better BH.


----------



## Hammerzeit

vvs_75 said:


> In the same thread you can also read that according to Stat's Mafia based on info what tubes are used in that new amp design,  its not  and never will better BH.



That's good to hear for me since I was planning to get a BHSE, but reading bout that rumor made me decide to wait on that other amp. Back to saving up money.


----------



## Electrostax

The bundled stax rca cables that came with my SRM-006tS seem quite decent, does anyone know if they are any good? And in what price range they are competitive?


----------



## padam

Yes they are decent (mine is neglex 2473 mogami, bundler with an older amp). You can always do better but a source upgrade makes a much much bigger difference.


----------



## lyricsuite

Hello. A new contributor here. I'm looking for a little help with my very old SR Lambdas (normal bias).  I get the usual 'crinkle' noises from both earpieces when there are pressure changes, but this is now much more noticeable/annoying on one side than the other. I thought it might be the seals (old pads) so replaced these. The RH side is still very sensitive following this - it didn't make any difference.
   
  Are these just 'past it' or does anyone think there might be a possible repair. The audio works beautifully still!
   
  Thank you
  Neil


----------



## svyr

lyricsuite said:


> Hello. A new contributor here. I'm looking for a little help with my very old SR Lambdas (normal bias).  I get the usual 'crinkle' noises from both earpieces when there are pressure changes, but this is now much more noticeable/annoying on one side than the other. I thought it might be the seals (old pads) so replaced these. The RH side is still very sensitive following this - it didn't make any difference.
> 
> Are these just 'past it' or does anyone think there might be a possible repair. The audio works beautifully still!
> 
> ...




heh for my 202 and 404 I thought that was just a normal property of stats  . It's really annoying though. Meant I couldn't chew while wearing the HP . Also curious whether this is solvable. (before swapping the pads I take it you had about the same magnitude problem on both ears?)


----------



## lyricsuite

Crinkle always a little worse on the right. I'll just have to sit still!


----------



## Sim1

Soundoholic sent me while ago description how to get rid of this crinkle. It slightly changes the sound but it's really worth to try.
  In simple words you cut short pipe (from drinking straw) and put it under pad (best place is close to cable entry). That's how it looks
  Completely revertible and takes not more than 3 minutes to do .


----------



## svyr

sim1 said:


> Soundoholic sent me while ago description how to get rid of this crinkle. It slightly changes the sound but it's really worth to try.
> In simple words you cut short pipe (from drinking straw) and put it under pad (best place is close to cable entry). That's how it looks
> Completely revertible and takes not more than 3 minutes to do .




interesting. thanks. So it basically breaks the seal then?


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





svyr said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 It's so the air has a place to go when the volume of the chamber changes. The crinkle is caused by volume changes (positive or negative pressure) in the sound chamber (between your pad, ear, and driver) and since the diaphragm is very light, it moves accordingly. It's also called the "Stax fart".


----------



## svyr

ikarios said:


> It's so the air has a place to go when the volume of the chamber changes. The crinkle is caused by volume changes (positive or negative pressure) in the sound chamber (between your pad, ear, and driver) and since the diaphragm is very light, it moves accordingly. It's also called the "Stax fart".




yes I understand that. On the other hand 'it breaks the seal' sound a bit silly, since the headphones are open. The sound will probably change a little bit though because of the leakage via the new path


----------



## Ra97oR

Finally received my SR-404 + SRM-300 combo. The SRM-300 is not as bad as I was expected, I was half expecting it to be quite muddy. 

Now for the strange part. The STAX setup manage to beat my dynamic setup in bass without being bloaty, it is tight and fast, but goes deeper and have a touch more bass. However the treble on it is not as sparklely as my AD1000PRM setup, it still does extend high up naturally, just the way the percussion hitting is not as nice. I think it might be due the amp, as I recalled the SR-404 sounds as sparklely as my AD1000PRM if not more on the SRM-727.


----------



## Sim1

Yes, it does beak the seal and sound slightly changes. IMHO there is no other way to remove the problem. As long as the sound chamber has tight sealing it will fart.
  Some may not like the new sound but I must admit I am addicted to the change.


----------



## svyr

sim1 said:


> Yes, it does beak the seal and sound slightly changes. IMHO there is no other way to remove the problem. As long as the sound chamber has tight sealing it will fart.
> Some may not like the new sound but I must admit I am addicted to the change.




mmm chewing while wearing stax HP  ...Damn it, now I'm going to have to do this on SR-507...Really didn't want to screw with them. 

> The SRM-300 is not as bad as I was expected, I was half expecting it to be quite muddy.

no, nothing like that. Just doesn't go particularly loud  (e.g. old dvds) (at least for me... 252 was plan awful, SRM-300 was barely acceptable and sometimes not quite enough, SRM-1/mk2 was more than enough)


----------



## Ra97oR

Well I found the SRM-300 more than loud enough for me. Mine is on less than the 3 step on the pot, (9 o'clock). Maybe I do really listen quiet?


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





svyr said:


> mmm chewing while wearing stax HP
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  To apply the mod as painless as possible, just use a screwdriver, gently push and drill the hole in the glue under pad until you'll see the end of the screwdriver on the other side, then put on the pipe and pushing it slowly remove the screwdriver - it will place the pipe in right place. A picture for the link I attached shows the operation in a phase you put the pipe on.
  If you want to revert to original just pull the pipe, glue from pad will catch again and there will be no sign of operation.


----------



## Ra97oR

I am currently eating with my 404 on, nothing like that is happening to me.


----------



## Ikarios

If you try it with a smaller straw (like a coffee stirrer) the sound changes will probably be minimal, but *should* get rid of the fart all the same.


----------



## Don Quichotte

I did the straw mod several years ago and I must confess I didn't like the sound change at all. So now I just use another headphone (K1000) if I want to eat and listen to some music at the same time.


----------



## lyricalmoments

Guys, need some advice here. 2 years after using the Omega II mk 2, the headphone has a prob with channel imbalance - right side is significantly softer than the left.  I have a SR-404 LE which doesn't have the problem when plugged into the same amp, so that rules out any possible problem with the amp or source.
   
  From your experience, what's the easiest way to have the headphone fixed? Stax JP or USA?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





lyricalmoments said:


> Guys, need some advice here. 2 years after using the Omega II mk 2, the headphone has a prob with channel imbalance - right side is significantly softer than the left.  I have a SR-404 LE which doesn't have the problem when plugged into the same amp, so that rules out any possible problem with the amp or source.
> 
> From your experience, what's the easiest way to have the headphone fixed? Stax JP or USA?
> 
> Thanks!


 

 I would see if I could send em off to Japan, because the USA Stax distributor/repair center ain't exactly brilliant from what I've heard.
   
  Good luck!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lyricalmoments said:


> Guys, need some advice here. 2 years after using the Omega II mk 2, the headphone has a prob with channel imbalance - right side is significantly softer than the left.  I have a SR-404 LE which doesn't have the problem when plugged into the same amp, so that rules out any possible problem with the amp or source.
> 
> From your experience, what's the easiest way to have the headphone fixed? Stax JP or USA?
> 
> Thanks!


 
   
  IIRC one member sent a Stax item to Stax UK for repair. Yama's ain't so great, unfortunately.


----------



## rsbrsvp

I am in the process of compleating a purchase for some Sigma Pros.   I would like to request the advice of those more experienced than me as to what the best driver would be for these phones.
  404?  407?  Maybe- I should just leave them alone.   I have a BHSE with GE 6ca7 tubes if that makes a difference in your recommendations.
   
   
  Also, Yamasinc does not seem to reply to my calls or e mails.   I am looking for someone to refurbish these phones with the best drivers, cable, and enything else it needs to shine.  Any recommendations?
   
  Thanks...


----------



## jaycalgary

I would leave them as is besides they are rare enough. I think the future is in a much stiffer housing than the Sigmas Have. Just my opinion so far. I'd sure like the original drivers though.


----------



## Comfy

Hello Stax thread. I'm generically an electrostatic lover, and specifically a Stax lover, but I've reached a point in life where my children do the most of cable-pulling in our residence. And on these grounds, dear Stax-sages of old, I turn to you.

Are there any simple, dynamic, "normal" headphones, that resemble the liquid, effortless sonics of 'stats?
The cheaper the better, mind you.
I've auditioned the Sennheiser dynamic flagship, and it is reminiscent of the electrostatic goodness, but for that money, I'd rather go static.

Any affordable, "padre de familia" -solutions to my dilemma?

In short:
1.) Stat-like "liquid" sound
2.) A bare minimum of adjacent electronics (no amp = good)
3.) Cheap, as in "cheaper than a proper Stax setup"

Thank you, and sorry about the long-winded post. Cheers!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





comfy said:


> Hello Stax thread. I'm generically an electrostatic lover, and specifically a Stax lover, but I've reached a point in life where my children do the most of cable-pulling in our residence. And on these grounds, dear Stax-sages of old, I turn to you.
> 
> Are there any simple, dynamic, "normal" headphones, that resemble the liquid, effortless sonics of 'stats?
> The cheaper the better, mind you.
> ...


 

 The HE-500 _probably _gets closest, but you can forget that without an amp. Other than that, I'm having trouble thinking of any. IMO a properly driven O2 is untouchable by any dynamic other than maybe the R10.


----------



## manaox2

Quote: 





comfy said:


> Hello Stax thread. I'm generically an electrostatic lover, and specifically a Stax lover, but I've reached a point in life where my children do the most of cable-pulling in our residence. And on these grounds, dear Stax-sages of old, I turn to you.
> 
> Are there any simple, dynamic, "normal" headphones, that resemble the liquid, effortless sonics of 'stats?
> The cheaper the better, mind you.
> ...


 

 Cheaper then a STAX Lambda normal setup? Your kind of ruined on all headphones below the $250 price range. Sorry. I would guess IEMs are your best bet for speed, detail, and ampless if that helps.


----------



## Hammerzeit

Check if you're able to try a pair of senns hd25-1 mk2 (I'm not recommending to buy them, but if you know someone or a store to test them out, might be worth giving it a listen or two). to my ears the senns got pretty close to my 202+ExStata. Only thing is that due to my source, and my surroundings, the stax weren't able to perform to what I believe is their full potential. The fact that there was a fishtank pump that is constantly emmiting a pretty loud noise just made it harder for me to concentrate while listening.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





hammerzeit said:


> Check if you're able to try a pair of senns hd25-1 mk2 to my ears the senns got pretty close to my 202+ExStata. Only thing is that due to my source, and my surroundings, the stax weren't able to perform to what I believe is their full potential so my comparisons were pretty uneven.


 

 Wow, because our HD25-1 II don't even come close to my SR-Lambda or Lambda Nova Signature from the eXStatA.  They're maybe closer to my $99 Alessandro MS-1 (Grado) to my ears.  Did you use the same source with both rigs?


----------



## Hammerzeit

Yeah, but like I said my source ain't that great, and the listening condition was even worse. Honestly I doubt I've even heard half of what my rig can fully do. It sucks living in a house that is constantly noisy. I'll try comparing them again somewhere without a fish tank.


----------



## lyricsuite

Thank you for replies to my crinkle problem. As it turns out it seems the dustcover on the inside is torn and I need to replace it - or repair it. Can any one point me to a good source for replacement film.
   
  Any suggestions at all would be welcome!
   
  Thanks


----------



## svyr

manaox2 said:


> Cheaper then a STAX Lambda normal setup? Your kind of ruined on all headphones below the $250 price range. Sorry. I would guess IEMs are your best bet for speed, detail, and ampless if that helps.




never thought I'd say this, but he could try GMP450PRO. If he doesn't mind the bright mids bump, or EQing. They're pretty cheap as well/very comfortable (for both open and closed HP). Not sure if the double padding will remove the need for EQ but seems like it's worth a try. That said, they do need an amp, but there are plenty of inexpensive amps capable of driving 300ohm HP well.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





comfy said:


> Hello Stax thread. I'm generically an electrostatic lover, and specifically a Stax lover, but I've reached a point in life where my children do the most of cable-pulling in our residence. And on these grounds, dear Stax-sages of old, I turn to you.
> 
> Are there any simple, dynamic, "normal" headphones, that resemble the liquid, effortless sonics of 'stats?
> The cheaper the better, mind you.
> ...


 


  Etymotic ER4. It's even "bassless" like a good ol' Lambda!
   
  But seriously speaking, in terms of speed and liquidity this one is probably the closest to a Lambda. Both are bright-ish, both are lean-ish and both are incredibly and effortlessly detailed.


----------



## Comfy

Thanks for the wealth of replies, you are a constant source of food for thought. 
   
  Does anyone have experience regarding the fostex T50RP or the Precide Ergo 2? Could either of them work as a 'stat substitute in a pinch? PRaT, speed?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





lyricalmoments said:


> Guys, need some advice here. 2 years after using the Omega II mk 2, the headphone has a prob with channel imbalance - right side is significantly softer than the left.  I have a SR-404 LE which doesn't have the problem when plugged into the same amp, so that rules out any possible problem with the amp or source.
> 
> From your experience, what's the easiest way to have the headphone fixed? Stax JP or USA?
> 
> Thanks!


 


 Unless you bought it from a dealer in the US, Yamas won't fix it.  They won't handle the gray market. 
   
  Unless the phones have been physically abused there are not that many things to go wrong.  My guess is a bad connection to a stator, possible even in the cable.  I have fixed such things myself with the Lambdas.  Locate the break and solder the wires together with an extra piece of wire.


----------



## Ikarios

I've found the Audio-Technica higher-end line to sound somewhat reminiscent of stats (treble sparkle and detail, speed) but they're not nearly as neutral. You can try out an AD100PRM or AD2000 (easier to find) to see if you'll like it.


----------



## Electrostax

Have SRM323S and SR507, looking for high end interconnect with good synergies in a stax system.
  Of the following please list pros and cons if you have experience, other recommendations also appreciated..  
  Kimber Hero
  Nordost White Lightning / Purple Flare
  Audioquest King Cobra
  Van Den Hul First Ultimate / Waterfall / Tide / D102


----------



## Sundance

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Unless you bought it from a dealer in the US, Yamas won't fix it.  They won't handle the gray market.
> 
> Unless the phones have been physically abused there are not that many things to go wrong.  My guess is a bad connection to a stator, possible even in the cable.  I have fixed such things myself with the Lambdas.  Locate the break and solder the wires together with an extra piece of wire.


 

 Accutech will accept any Stax regardless of purchase history. The only covet is they reserve the right to refuse repairs that are deemed unserviceable. They will always inspect any equipment for a flat $25. Subsequently, you will receive an invoice for a repair offer or a return shipping notice. If you don't know the problem behind an equipment you can always send it in for the inspection to get a clue about the fix.
   
  From experience, replacing the cable does not cure channel imbalance.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> Have SRM323S and SR507, looking for high end interconnect with good synergies in a stax system.
> Of the following please list pros and cons if you have experience, other recommendations also appreciated..
> Kimber Hero
> Nordost White Lightning / Purple Flare
> ...


 

 At that price level I'd suggest Acoustic Zen Wow, or if you can swing it, Audio-Magic Excalibur II. Otherwise you're better off with the factory direct companies like MAC or Signal Cable. You really don't get much from the big cable cos for $200-300.


----------



## manaox2

Quote: 





comfy said:


> Thanks for the wealth of replies, you are a constant source of food for thought.
> 
> Does anyone have experience regarding the fostex T50RP or the Precide Ergo 2? Could either of them work as a 'stat substitute in a pinch? PRaT, speed?


 


  Dunno about the Ergo, but the Fostex T50RP I own myself are crap. Not comparable at all sadly. In any way. :'-(


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote:


ikarios said:


> I've found the Audio-Technica higher-end line to sound somewhat reminiscent of stats (treble sparkle and detail, speed) but they're not nearly as neutral. You can try out an AD100PRM or AD2000 (easier to find) to see if you'll like it.


 

 Agree, completely... the AD2000's are possibly the closest you'll come in a reasonably priced set of phones.  They may well be my favorite. 
   
  Though... I love the SR-507's with the SRM-323S - everything is nearly perfect - very well balanced, great soundstage, superb clarity and detail. 
   
  The AD2000's have most of that... plus... a driving, big sound - a wee bit warmer, and richer.  With the right amp, and the "phat pad" mods, several have observed they are they're favorite phones. 
   
  Unless, you have an extreme case of OCD, are insistent on a perfectly flat sound, and appreciate very subtle nuances between phones, I doubt you'd notice such a big difference, in favor of the SR-507's, that you'd not be impressed and pleased with the AD2000's.  And... you'll have to invest a small fortune to achieve the best sound with the SR-007's - I much prefer the AD2000's with a $400 amp, to the 007's with the SRM-007t II - no comparison, whatsoever.


----------



## lyricsuite

Sorry to 'bump' my question but I would be really grateful if anyone who has repaired/replaced a dust cover on the inside (ear side) of a Lambda driver (I have a normal bias one) could let me know what to use!
   
  Thank you for any help!


----------



## jaycalgary

I have the same problem but really I think it is game over once you have a hole. Now don't go thinking I have an answer for you but I do have a guess. I never used the stuff and it is really only a guess.
  I am guessing liquid skin from a drug store like a tiny bit on the end of a tooth pick.


----------



## lyricsuite

Liquid skin sounds interesting and might be worth an experiment! I see someone else suggested plastic wrap/cling film but this doesn't sound right to me...
   
  Thanks.


----------



## Ikarios

I recall someone repaired a Lambda Pro dust cover with some Glad Press'n'Seal (the kind used for food), as it's a comparatively thin membrane. No idea how to go about the process, though.


----------



## lyricsuite

Yes, I saw the link for this. I'd love to know whether it held up long term. I've wondered about very thin shrink wrap (12.5 micron) which is quite widely available.


----------



## Stein

Quote: 





sundance said:


> Accutech will accept any Stax regardless of purchase history. The only covet is they reserve the right to refuse repairs that are deemed unserviceable. They will always inspect any equipment for a flat $25. Subsequently, you will receive an invoice for a repair offer or a return shipping notice. If you don't know the problem behind an equipment you can always send it in for the inspection to get a clue about the fix.
> 
> From experience, replacing the cable does not cure channel imbalance.


 

 How exactly would one go about contact Accutech for repairs? I haven't put up a WTB ad for my broken SR-202 headband yet because I still am not sure exactly what headbands would make suitable replacements, and I'd be more comfortable sending it in to a professional so I don't accidentally buy a wrong one. Seeing as how all I need is a replacement rather than a real repair, I'd hope their prices are reasonable as well? Thanks for any input.


----------



## John Buchanan

Replacement headbands that would be suitable are:
  Stax Lambda Nova Classic, SR-202, and SR-207.


----------



## tigermilk

Anyone know where I can pick up some SR-003s (my pair at work are being a bit flaky) cheaper than Yodobashi in Tokyo?  Here in Japan for work for the week and went by one place (Akihabara Outlet) which ended up not having them in stock.  I will be back in Tokyo Friday night for my Saturday flight, but don't want to schlep all the way out to Fujiya Avic but I'll happily scour for a few places around Akihabara (will be at the Washington in Akihabara on Friday night).


----------



## milosz

[size=medium]*HELP!*
   
  Where can I get the Stax 5-pin plug used for high-bias headphones?  I thought I had a line on these but it's not the right plug. I need to adapt a Koss ESP-950 cable to use Stax energizers / amplifiers.
   
  I also need a 6 pin plug!  Anybody know where I can get one of those?  I want to drive my Beyer ET1000's off Stax low-bias stuff....
   
   
  Surely there's a way to get a 5 pin plug without buying a whole Stax replacement cable?
   
  Same for the 6 pin, except the 6 pin cable isn't available anywhere from anyone, as far as I can tell; Stax's distributor in California says they aren't available......​[/size]


----------



## livewire

Obviously you dont want to spend a lot of money (who does?) but these parts dont come cheap.
  For ESP-950 (Cha-Ching !$!$!) cable adapters, go here: http://apuresound.com/ehrc.html
   
  The following requires decent DIY skills -
  For just a six pin connector you will pay around $20 to $35 plus shipping and need to do some soldering and minor modification
  to the connector housing so it can be used with a Stax box. These are chrome metal mil-spec connectors originally made by Amphenol for microphone use.
  Newark Electronics carries them, part # 38F1543. For the Stax Pro five pin variant, just take a six pin jobbie and cut out the center pin. Viola!
  Link: http://www.newark.com/cooper-interconnect/91-mc6m/connector-din-audio-plug-6way/dp/38F1543?Ntt=38f1543
   
  I've used these extensively, here is a pic of one mated to my stat amp.
   
                                       
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> *HELP!*
> 
> Where can I get the Stax 5-pin plug used for high-bias headphones?  I thought I had a line on these but it's not the right plug. I need to adapt a Koss ESP-950 cable to use Stax energizers / amplifiers.
> 
> ...


----------



## livewire

Ha!!!
  After I posted above, Newark's available inventory for this part dropped by 10 pieces.
  I wonder if any of those purchases were by the HF crowd?  You're welcome...


----------



## glac1er

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Etymotic ER4. It's even "bassless" like a good ol' Lambda!
> 
> But seriously speaking, in terms of speed and liquidity this one is probably the closest to a Lambda. Both are bright-ish, both are lean-ish and both are incredibly and effortlessly detailed.


 

 Been a while since I've been to this thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, I have to disagree. I used to own an ER4 for more than 3 years and I was always amazed how my SR-202 and now SR-303 slaughtered it in terms of being effortless and detailed when A-B'ed. I tended to believe that ER4 is super good in detail when I used it by itself for a long period of time, but was rudely reminded every time I switched to my Stax. Nowadays, even something like a dba-02 has better detail than the ER4. The ER4 also skimps in decay to achieve that speed, something I've never felt with the SR-202/303. Also ER4 is rather bassless, some Lambdas are not as much so (such as the Pros, 404LE, 404, 303). Granted, the ER4 has nice mid tonality, something I can't say about my SR-303.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Obviously you dont want to spend a lot of money (who does?) but these parts dont come cheap.
> For ESP-950 (Cha-Ching !$!$!) cable adapters, go here: http://apuresound.com/ehrc.html
> 
> The following requires decent DIY skills -
> ...


 

 I can't thank you enough!  That Newark info is EXACTLY  what I need!  Now, this is not going to be any problem.  I am happy to modify things, make things, etc, this will be just great.
   
  THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!


----------



## milosz

I bought two connectors, Newark still had some left!  FYI Newark's corporate HQ is about 6 blocks from me here in Chicago.... but they don't actually have any parts there these days. No "counter service" or "will call" like in days of old.   I see the Newark folks at the Dunkin' Donuts across the street getting coffee and snacks when I drop in there for a coffee on occasion. [Newark   4801 N. Ravenswood  Chicago, IL 60640]  
   
  I see that you have an ESP-950.  What do you think of them, driven by Stax amp or other decent gear?


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





milosz said:


> "I bought two connectors, Newark still had some left...
> 
> ... I see that you have an ESP-950.  What do you think of them, driven by Stax amp or other decent gear?"


 

 Yes... is it worth the time and money to get the ESP-950 to connect it to the SRM-323S?
   
  I've seen some much earlier comments that suggest that it sounds as good as the 02's, when driven by Stax, or better, amps.  Are those comments accurate?
   
  If so, I may give it a try, before upgrading my Stax stuff.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I can't thank you enough!  That Newark info is EXACTLY  what I need!  Now, this is not going to be any problem.  I am happy to modify things, make things, etc, this will be just great.
> 
> THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!


 

 You're welcome!
   
  A few notes as to the conector mods, this will make more sense when you have it in your hands.
  The design of this connector has the pins recessed in the outer shell.
  To make it work with the Stax "female jack" the pins must be protruding, their base flush with the front edge of the outer metal shell.
   
  There are two ways of doing this.
  One is if you have a lathe, trim down the outer shell then use the supplied set screw to hold everything together.
  The second method which I used (because I dont have a lathe at my disposal right now) is to ditch the set screw
  and use epoxy to hold the plastic pin base flush inside of the metal shell. (after soldering the wires to the pins, of course)
  I then back-filled the soldered pins/wires side of the shell with hot glue as a strain relief. Epoxy could be used here too
  but is permanent. With hot glue, if there is a problem with a soldered connection, it can be reheated and disassembled.
  I used the included spring style strain relief as well, but not the included threaded metal lock ring. (Not needed for Stax jacks)


----------



## livewire

Quote:Originally Posted by *milosz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif

  I see that you have an ESP-950.  What do you think of them, driven by Stax amp or other decent gear?
   
   



  They are ok, nice sound for the money. I do like my Stax better.
  I think the ESP-950's sound decent with the cheapo plastic energizer box that they came with.
  The only benefit driving them with the KGSSHV is that the bass is stronger, that is a good thing for stats.
  I can also run the volume up to ear bleeding levels (see my avi, he-he) and that is not a good thing
  except for the extra headroom afforded by the higher than normal rail voltage. (+/- 450 volts)


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Yes... is it worth the time and money to get the ESP-950 to connect it to the SRM-323S?
> 
> I've seen some much earlier comments that suggest that it sounds as good as the 02's, when driven by Stax, or better, amps.  Are those comments accurate?
> 
> If so, I may give it a try, before upgrading my Stax stuff.


 


 See my last post for my opinions on that.
  As for sounding as good as 02's? No way.
  I've only heard Omegas a couple of times, once on n3rdling's Blue Hawaii.
  I've never heard better. ESP-950's dont come close.
   
  But hey, I picked up my ESP-950 setup new for $500.
  I have no regrets, they are a great sounding stat for the money.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> ....if you have a lathe, trim down the outer shell then use the supplied set screw to hold everything together.
> The second method which I used (because I dont have a lathe at my disposal right now) is to ditch the set screw
> and use epoxy to hold the plastic pin base flush inside of the metal shell. (after soldering the wires to the pins, of course)
> I then back-filled the soldered pins/wires side of the shell with hot glue as a strain relief. Epoxy could be used here too
> ...


 
  Yeah, I see what you mean, I am familiar with this type of mic connector, a similar Amphenol type is used with 2 way radios / ham gear / CB.
   
  I do have a lathe. But I was thinking to use a cutoff wheel or diamond saw and just cut the shell shorter, then grind / file / sand the cut edge smooth.  And I have "potting epoxy" for strain relief / potting the thing inside the shell once I'm sure it's wired right and everything works. Potting it is irreversible, but if I need to replace it I'll just cut off the old one and buy a new one.


----------



## livewire

Sounds like you know what you're doing. Should be a "slam-dunk".


----------



## svyr

heh... I still want to try a pair of ESP-950 one day, but so far the horror stories of build quality and squeaking problem have scared me away every time


----------



## Tidal

Can anyone tell me the differences between 2050A and 2170 ?
  I know that the numbers go to SR-207 and SRM-252S (from 202 and 252A). That's only thing I know.


----------



## svyr

tidal said:


> Can anyone tell me the differences between 2050A and 2170 ?
> I know that the numbers go to SR-207 and SRM-252S (from 202 and 252A). That's only thing I know.




different amp and earspeakers... Slightly more powerful amp and new driver enclosure/most likely a different diver


----------



## Tidal

Quote: 





svyr said:


> different amp and earspeakers... Slightly more powerful amp and new driver enclosure/most likely a different diver


 


  Thank you svyr.
  I would like to ask some questions
  I think that the voltage is equivalent between the 2 drivers, 400 Vrms. So, the power added in the new model is not electrical but by other mechanism?


----------



## svyr

tidal said:


> Thank you svyr.
> I would like to ask some questions
> I think that the voltage is equivalent between the 2 drivers, 400 Vrms. So, the power added in the new model is not electrical but by other mechanism?




http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRS2170e.html
Maximum output voltage: 280 V r.m.s. / 1 kHz 

http://www.stax.co.jp/Japan/srs2050a.html
●最大出力電圧 280Vr.m.s.


That's interesting... Both say 280v. Wonder why I thought 252s had higher output


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Yes... is it worth the time and money to get the ESP-950 to connect it to the SRM-323S?
> 
> I've seen some much earlier comments that suggest that it sounds as good as the 02's, when driven by Stax, or better, amps.  Are those comments accurate?
> 
> If so, I may give it a try, before upgrading my Stax stuff.


 

 Out of a good Stax amp I thought the ESP-950 were as good or better than my old SR-Lambda Signature Pro, but my ESP-950 were re-cabled with a PC-OCC cable and de-foamed by APureSound.com


----------



## HONEYBOY

Quote: 





svyr said:


> http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SRS2170e.html
> Maximum output voltage: 280 V r.m.s. / 1 kHz
> 
> http://www.stax.co.jp/Japan/srs2050a.html
> ...


 
  There are reports that the 252S has a higher gain. In fact, on a German forum, someone hinted that the gain was set too high on the 252S and that they were experiencing distortion.......


----------



## svyr

honeyboy said:


> There are reports that the 252S has a higher gain. In fact, on a German forum, someone hinted that the gain was set too high on the 252S and that they were experiencing distortion.......




On the two pages above S is listed as 58DB and A as 54DB. I'm not too sure if it's the gain being set to high for the people on the Ger forums, since I've had 252A clip on some source material (generally the material that wasn't normalized or vol leveled with low singal level, where you had to turn the vol knob past about 2 o'clock). spritzer and kevin said I was clipping it at the psu rails, I think.


----------



## milosz

RE:  ESP-950's driven by good ES amp
  
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> See my last post for my opinions on that.
> As for sounding as good as 02's? No way.
> I've only heard Omegas a couple of times, once on n3rdling's Blue Hawaii.
> I've never heard better. ESP-950's dont come close.
> ...


 

 I was bidding on  a set of the '02's, MK I, on Audiogon a week or so ago.  My attention lapsed and the last minutes of the auction went by without my participation, they went for $1,750.00 or so.  I WANT A PAIR!   WAH! WAH! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
    $1,700~$1,850 seems to be a price that used copies often sell for.  Although most owners want more, they don't seem to always get it.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I was bidding on  a set of the '02's, MK I, on Audiogon a week or so ago.  My attention lapsed and the last minutes of the auction went by without my participation, they went for $1,750.00 or so.  I WANT A PAIR!   WAH! WAH!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think I paid around $1400 for mine last year. The price seems to have gone up several hundred since then, although the same could be said for the current O2 Mk2 which is now $2650.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





livewire said:


> They are ok, nice sound for the money. I do like my Stax better.
> I think the ESP-950's sound decent with the cheapo plastic energizer box that they came with.
> The only benefit driving them with the KGSSHV is that the bass is stronger, that is a good thing for stats.


 


 You have the 202's IIRC? Are they actually preferable to the 950's with the KGSSHV in your opnion? Seems a rare notion beacuse all other comments i read thus far suggest that the Koss outclass any lambda, Except the 507 maybe, with a hige-end amp such as the KGSS.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> You have the 202's IIRC? Are they actually preferable to the 950's with the KGSSHV in your opnion? Seems a rare notion beacuse all other comments i read thus far suggest that the Koss outclass any lambda, Except the 507 maybe, with a hige-end amp such as the KGSS.


 


 Yes & No.
  The KGSSHV tends to overdrive the 202's causing distortion when pushed to a SPL above 95dB.
  I do prefer the sound of the Basic Lambdas when driven by their own amp. (280v vs 450v rails on the KGSSHV)
  The Koss do exceed them in terms of bass slam, but the traits of the Lambda prove more desirable to me.
  Higher treble, more "airiness", larger soundstage and other minutia which I cant think of at the moment because I am very tired.
  The Koss do have their place in my stable. Heavy rock with massive drums.
  Example: Krypteria - "At The Gates Of Retribution". Oh yeah!!!!!


----------



## FrankCooter

The Koss 950's kind of fly under the radar around here, but if you get past the well documented build quality issues, they're really quite an excellent headphone for the money. I own a pair and also own Lambda Sig's, SR-303, and 507's. I prefer the 507's overall, but definitely prefer the Koss to the lesser Lambda's. A very nice "poor man's" electrostatic rig could be built around the  950's.
  Sonic signature reminds me a bit of the original Omega's. Maybe a bit less detail than the Lambda's, but more than made up by a fuller midrange and meatier dynamics. Makes you wonder what the Koss people could do if they put thier mind to it!


----------



## Double F

Quote: 





milosz said:


> RE:  ESP-950's driven by good ES amp
> 
> 
> I was bidding on  a set of the '02's, MK I, on Audiogon a week or so ago.  My attention lapsed and the last minutes of the auction went by without my participation, they went for $1,750.00 or so.  I WANT A PAIR!   WAH! WAH!
> ...


 
  Glad your attention lapsed....Allowed me to get them for $1,675 plus shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   The seller, Osakaears. has them listed frequently.  They arrived quickly and and in perfect shape.  Good luck, a pair should pop up soon.


----------



## lyricsuite

I recently posted about torn dustcovers on the inside of my normal bias Lambdas. I tried kitchen plastic film as a repair. It works but I think it's really only usable as a last resort. Some immediacy is lost.
   
  I have since then replaced the dustcovers with 2 micron mylar 'transparent foil' ordered in the UK from the supplier below. This works beautifully! (It's a little hard to handle and tears easily, but once it's on it should be completely fine.
   
  http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/lightweight.htm
   
  I hope this helps someone else with a repair!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I think I paid around $1400 for mine last year. The price seems to have gone up several hundred since then, although the same could be said for the current O2 Mk2 which is now $2650.


 
   
  Want to sell- $1,500? $1,600?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





double f said:


> Glad your attention lapsed....Allowed me to get them for $1,675 plus shipping
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Hahahah- that'll teach me to leave my computer for something so mundane as SLEEPING and EATING....


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Want to sell- $1,500? $1,600?


 

 Nope, I'm having a KGSS-HV built and these aren't going anywhere... not until I can afford a SR-009 at least. Then maybe we'll talk.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *livewire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Yes & No.
> The KGSSHV tends to overdrive the 202's causing distortion when pushed to a SPL above 95dB.
> ...


 

  
  Intresting comments, I thought the ESP950 would be at least as good as the SR202... In comparison to the SR-007A i do find their upper mids/treble response more exciting for music such as the song you refered to... (Cool band btw, Very pleased to make the acquaintance ) but that's about the only thing tbh. Is the ESP950 tough to drive than the 202?
  Btw, Somehow i thought the KGSSHV outputs much more than 450V on the rails, doesn't it reach close to a kilovolt somewhere?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Intresting comments, I thought the ESP950 would be at least as good as the SR202... In comparison to the SR-007A i do find their upper mids/treble response more exciting for music such as the song you refered to... (Cool band btw, Very pleased to make the acquaintance ) but that's about the only thing tbh. Is the ESP950 tough to drive than the 202?
> Btw, Somehow i thought the KGSSHV outputs much more than 450V on the rails, doesn't it reach close to a kilovolt somewhere?


 
  Most think that the ESP950 is better than the SR202. Primarily I'm a treble-head, so the 202 suits me better.
  But the 202 is bass lite, so for some genres with thundering bass I prefer the ESP-950. So I like them both for what they are.
  Someday I will be able to afford one stat that will do both treble & bass well with the micro-detail of the Lambda, I guess that is what I am saying.
   
  The ESP-950 is not real tough to drive like the O2's are, although they do benefit from a more powerful amp.
   
  The KGSSHV can be built as a 450V version or a 500V version.
  Better heatsinking and higher voltage withstanding components are critical on the 500V build.
   
  When you say "doesn't it reach close to a kilovolt somewhere", one must consider the overall voltage differential between the positive and negative rails.
  That would be 900V RMS for the 450V version (+450V to -450V diff.) and 1000V RMS for the 500V version.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





livewire said:


> When you say "doesn't it reach close to a kilovolt somewhere", one must consider the overall voltage differential between the positive and negative rails.
> That would be 900V RMS for the 450V version (+450V to -450V diff.) and 1000V RMS for the 500V version.


 

  Thanks, that makes much more sense.


----------



## spritzer

The trick with the ESP950 is really to play with the damping.  I think Koss took things a bit too far in that regard so cutting down on the layers may bring some good improvements.


----------



## livewire

Interesting comment Spritzer, I never thought of doing that with stats.
  I could see how it might widen the soundstage and increase treble response.
  In the past I did just that to my HD-555 dynamics and the above was the exact result along with increased bass.
  Amazing! That mod transformed them from some anemic, veiled crap into something I could actually listen to and enjoy.
   
  Gonna play with the damping in the future if I can figure how to get the ESP-950's apart without breaking something.
  Need to think about it first, as any noticable mod will void my lifetime warranty....


----------



## chinsettawong

I prefer not to use any damping material.  To me the stats play much better that way.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> I prefer not to use any damping material.  To me the stats play much better that way.
> 
> Wachara C.


 


 Agreed and the Lambdas sound better without the back foam which acts as damping.
   
  I think Stax used the damping to try bring up the midrange, but it makes it sound somewhat harsh and reduces the width of the soundfield.
   
  I wonder how many other stats use damping.  The Sigma, which uses the same  drivers as the Lambda doesn't use the same damping ( by which I do not mean the mineral wool which lines the enclosure.)  The 003's don't and I haven't seen any in the 007 either.  Are the 009, HE 90 and HE 60 damped?


----------



## n3rdling

Not to my knowledge


----------



## spritzer

All of them are damped to some extent as the air trapped next to the stator does just that.  The last Stax headphones to be externally damped were the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-Ganna Pro (first version). 
   
  One has to remember that the ESP950 hails back from the 1980's (late 89) so considering that, it is a hell of a headphone.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All of them are damped to some extent as the air trapped next to the stator does just that.  The last Stax headphones to be externally damped were the SR-Lambda Pro and SR-Ganna Pro (first version).
> 
> One has to remember that the ESP950 hails back from the 1980's (late 89) so considering that, it is a hell of a headphone.


 

 I was thinking in terms of the damping effect or whatever one wants to call it of the back foam.
   
  In a sense anything that blocks the sound transmitted from the diaphragm is in some respect damping the diaphragm and possibly causing other physical effects to the sound as well. That would include, as you note, the stator because it traps air. as well as all structures in the earcup before or behind the diaphragm which could cause some impediment of the free movement the diaphragm would otherwise have if it were in open air.
   
  So presumably the less transparent the stator the more the damping effect. Now with the SR009 it looks as if Stax is trying to reduce the damping effect of the stator by making it especially transparent.


----------



## Hammerzeit

I'm two weeks away from putting a downpayment for the BHSE yet all I can think of is trying out a lyr with the senn 650s and akg 701...I have a problem... Please talk me out of spending my money on non-stax gear, two more weeks!


----------



## livewire

Think of this, you will prolly be one of the first to have not waited a year or more
  to take delivery of your BHSE. Besides, no 701 or 650 is gonna sound as good as what
  you have right now. Oh sure, better bass and a "thicker" delivery, but you might tire soon
  of the sub-par performance of the dynamics in general. I know. I have the 702's and modded 555's.(but no Lyr)
  I love them both dearly and at times want to put the stats down for a taste of something different.
  But I always go back to the Stax and prolly spend 85% of my listening time with them.
  Granted, they aint no 009's with a BHSE tho. Keep saving my friend! The result will be well worth it.
  Or on the other hand, a small Lyrical detour might not be so bad after all.
  If it were me I would want to get on that BHSE bandwagon to insure my place in the fast(er) lane.
  Justin's 45 piece build aint gonna last forever. Then the big wait might be on again, and again....


----------



## BoogieWoogie

I read this about the Stax Adaptar "When the knob is on the off position, the signal from your speaker amplifier is passed on to the speakers, thus you conveniently can switch between your headphone and speaker set up."
   
  Hows can I have both adaptor and speakers connected to the amp ?


----------



## Amarphael

I take it you refer to the SRD boxes, It has output teminals to the speakers, You have to set the adapet between the speakers and the amp.
http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srd-7/


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> I take it you refer to the SRD boxes, It has output teminals to the speakers, You have to set the adapet between the speakers and the amp.
> http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srd-7/


 


 Yes but hows that possible, if I connect the speakers there is no entrance for the SRD cables.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I read this about the Stax Adaptar "When the knob is on the off position, the signal from your speaker amplifier is passed on to the speakers, thus you conveniently can switch between your headphone and speaker set up."
> 
> Hows can I have both adaptor and speakers connected to the amp ?


 

 Your amp's speaker outputs connect to wires that are the input to the SRD -5/6/7 adaptor. There are speaker wire terminals that connect to the back of the adaptor. The front switch either outputs the signal to the headphones connected at the front panel, or the speakers wires connected to the back panel. It's reasonably intuitive when you actually have one.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Thanks gotcha.


----------



## Electrostax

Quote: 





hammerzeit said:


> I'm two weeks away from putting a downpayment for the BHSE yet all I can think of is trying out a lyr with the senn 650s and akg 701...I have a problem... Please talk me out of spending my money on non-stax gear, two more weeks!


 


  Non-stax gear does not deliver stax-thrills.  
  Before recently buying a current stax combo I went to audition the cream of the crop of current dynamic headphones including senn 650/800, akg 702, beyer t1/880, grado gs1000/rs1 and many more, the only one of these I could even start to compare to the electrostats were the sennheiser HD800 driven by a lehmann black cube. -although very nice, it lacked the "magic ingredient" that takes you all the way, and transports you into the music, to the exact time and place of the recording. The stax has this magic and the difference can best be described as _experiencing_ the music rather than just listening to it.
  The HD800 I left thinking "What a really nice set of headphones!.."
  The Stax I couldn´t leave, and all i could think was "More! More!!! ..."
  IMHO Stax/BHSE will leave you content that you made the right choice whatever you audition for many years to come, while dynamics will only leave you in doubt and a state of constant upgraditis..


----------



## Electrostax

BTW- To those fellow Stax enthusiasts that have not yet tried their phones while watching movies -PLEASE DO!
  Soundtracks are so stunning that I actually prefer the fantastically open and full bodied stereo sound of the stax to the surround sound on my (quite good) home surround setup. 
  The latest TRON movie is highly recommended on stax!


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> BTW- To those fellow Stax enthusiasts that have not yet tried their phones while watching moves -PLEASE DO!
> Soundtracks are so stunning that I actually prefer the fantastically open and full bodied stereo sound of the stax to the surround sound on my (quite good) home surround setup.
> The latest TRON movie is highly recommended on stax!


 

 Man I use the O2's for everything. Music, games, anime, voice chat, whatever =P.


----------



## paulchiu

have you auditioned the Stax tubed amp with your Stax, which one, BTW?
   

  
  Quote: 





electrostax said:


> Non-stax gear does not deliver stax-thrills.
> Before recently buying a current stax combo I went to audition the cream of the crop of current dynamic headphones including senn 650/800, akg 702, beyer t1/880, grado gs1000/rs1 and many more, the only one of these I could even start to compare to the electrostats were the sennheiser HD800 driven by a lehmann black cube. -although very nice, it lacked the "magic ingredient" that takes you all the way, and transports you into the music, to the exact time and place of the recording. The stax has this magic and the difference can best be described as _experiencing_ the music rather than just listening to it.
> The HD800 I left thinking "What a really nice set of headphones!.."
> The Stax I couldn´t leave, and all i could think was "More! More!!! ..."
> IMHO Stax/BHSE will leave you content that you made the right choice whatever you audition for many years to come, while dynamics will only leave you in doubt and a state of constant upgraditis..


----------



## Electrostax

Currently the tubed SRM-006ts paired with the SR-407 phones, aka SRS-4170 combo, as my dealer was kind enough to lend me this while I wait for my SR-507/SRM-323s that will be arriving in two weeks. 
  I have never before been sure if I could actually hear much difference between interconnects or if I was experiencing a placebo effect. These headphones are so good that they would put an end to all claims of "snake oil" if everyone had them.. At my local hifi store the manager there said that he could not tell the difference between the Van Den Hul "D-102 Mk3" and "Waterfall" interconnects on their high end demo kit. On my stax kit they were night and day... okay that´s slightly exaggerated, but in double blind test with my brother switching cables I could tell them apart each and every time!...  No placebo.
  They are both great cables, and one is not nessecarily "better" than the other, just different so it is a matter of taste.
  I liked the waterfall the best as it seems to extend deeper in the bass and higher in the treble, the D-102 seems slightly narrower in its frequency extention, but is more "forward" in the higher bass and lower midrange region, it also seemed to lack a little "space" and "airiness" compared to the waterfall.
  It also lets me hear the difference on the toslink and coax digital output from my sonos. contrary to much that i have read about toslink giving an electrical/ground isolation between components and thus sonic advantages, I preferred the coax. the optical connection sounded more spacious and "airy", but the sources of the sounds were hard to pinpoint, as if they were slightly "smeared out" in the picture. The coax on the other hand had the sources of sound very well focused and although there was less "surround-like" ambience, the sound was much more realistic and life-like.
  Maybe what I heard was jitter on the optical connection? 
  Amazed by my stax....


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> It also lets me hear the difference on the toslink and coax digital output from my sonos. contrary to much that i have read about toslink giving an electrical/ground isolation between components and thus sonic advantages, I preferred the coax. the optical connection sounded more spacious and "airy", but the sources of the sounds were hard to pinpoint, as if they were slightly "smeared out" in the picture. The coax on the other hand had the sources of sound very well focused and although there was less "surround-like" ambience, the sound was much more realistic and life-like.
> Maybe what I heard was jitter on the optical connection?
> Amazed by my stax....


 

 Toslink is immune to RF and EMI distortion, and also conveniently breaks ground loops. Unfortunately as you've noticed, none of that makes up for the fact that its a disaster in terms of jitter. Supposedly the old ST (AT&T) optical connection is much better at dealing with that than the Toslink found on nearly everything now, but ST jacks are extremely rare these days. All but the poorest quality coaxial cables will outperform toslink, and the best ones which actually maintain close to 75 Ohms tip to tip and use BNC jacks will absolutely destroy toslink, and often AES/EBU as well.


----------



## n3rdling

Just put on my normal bias Sigmas for the first time in a few months.  Five seconds in, I just started laughing because of how good the midrange is on these things.  I wonder why these aren't more popular, are the looks that much of a put off?


----------



## Deadneddz

I seriously wonder the exact same thing....


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Just put on my normal bias Sigmas for the first time in a few months.  Five seconds in, I just started laughing because of how good the midrange is on these things.  I wonder why these aren't more popular, are the looks that much of a put off?


 

 Have you seen what people are selling these  25 - 32 year old phones for? As much as a 2nd hand O2. And yes, they are worth it - I sold my O2 Mk 1 in preference to losing the Sigma/404. Midrange like no other.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Have you seen what people are selling these  25 - 32 year old phones for? As much as a 2nd hand O2. And yes, they are worth it - I sold my O2 Mk 1 in preference to losing the Sigma/404. Midrange like no other.


 

 Bloody hell I need to listen to one of those bad boys somewhere in this lifetime.
   
  I recall father Stax saying that his favourite phones were still the Sigma despite just releasing the original Omega or something like that, so they must be pretty special.


----------



## milosz

Two weeks ago I got a pair of Lambda Signatures with an SRM-T1, and I am really loving these things. I have a TON of dynamic and planar  headphones - HD800's, HE-5's, LCD-2's, Denon AHD7000s, etc etc., but I am just really digging these 25 year old Lambdas right now. They have such great midrange texture, nice -but not painful- highs and tuneful bass.  
   
  It's true they don't have the bass "impact" of the better dynamic and orthos, they probably just can't handle the excursion. But their bass does not seem weak or thin- it's just "very good," as opposed to "amazing" which you can get out of the LCD-2's, for example.
   
  But it's really the midrange and texture-  wow.  The midrange detail and the way the spectrum is so well balanced.  Makes me want to try a pair of SR-007's.  
   
  I spruced these Lambda Signatures up- put new, brown earpads and a new headpad on, cleaned out all the crumbled foam.  Loving them!
   
  Recently also got an SRM-1/MK2, haven't tried that out yet.


----------



## gilency

I love my Sigma/404's.


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Two weeks ago I got a pair of Lambda Signatures with an SRM-T1, and I am really loving these things. I have a TON of dynamic and planar  headphones - HD800's, HE-5's, LCD-2's, Denon AHD7000s, etc etc., but I am just really digging these 25 year old Lambdas right now. They have such great midrange texture, nice -but not painful- highs and tuneful bass.
> 
> It's true they don't have the bass "impact" of the better dynamic and orthos, they probably just can't handle the excursion. But their bass does not seem weak or thin- it's just "very good," as opposed to "amazing" which you can get out of the LCD-2's, for example.
> 
> But it's really the midrange and texture-  wow.  The midrange detail and the way the spectrum is so well balanced.  Makes me want to try a pair of SR-007's.


 
   
  I also had T1, HE-6, and new Lambda sr-407.  They hold their own place by each own.  SR-407 has actually probably the most satisfying bass with SRM-323S.  The low end extension and generosity is soothingly satisfying.  And it is even quite punchy comparable to my other systems.  I was so amazed by this setup and is looking for even better amp for my 407.
   
  The only "less" of my 407 is the treble level or sparkiness, which I don't consider as weakness but a feature. 407 is the only phone I can use to glide through all bright recordings.


----------



## jaycalgary

"I love my Sigma/404's"
 I love my diy Sigma/407's


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:  





> I love my diy Sigma/407's


 
   
  POIDH.


----------



## jaycalgary

Oh it happened all right. Actually listening to them right now. The shape is a bit smaller and different from Sigma but probably the same effect sans plastic.
  I am still going to make some small changes but the pics are from even before I had a chance to hear them.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/541076/stax-sigma-wood-mesh-housing/60#post_7586091


----------



## Jodet

Two questions for Stax folks:  
   
  1) How much better is the SR007MK2 over the SR-507?
   
  2) Would a SR007MK2 / 323S combination make sense?
   
  All comments welcome.


----------



## n3rdling

milosz (hey my name is Milos  ), the Lambda Sig and T1 is a fantastic pairing.  Probably my favorite Lambda setup I've had.  
   
  Jodet, I have no clue how to quantify it but the 007 is significantly better IMO.  As for your second question, yes that should be a nice system.  If you decide to get the 007mk2, be sure to google for the spritzer mods, all of which are completely reversible.


----------



## jaycalgary

307 probably uses the same drivers as the 407 and 507 just the thinner cable? 307/323s is probably a killer combo. I think I would put the thick nos lambda pads on though.


----------



## Amarphael

I apologize, somehow i missed your ambitious project. Great work, I do hope you find all the effort has paid off.
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Oh it happened all right. Actually listening to them right now. The shape is a bit smaller and different from Sigma but probably the same effect sans plastic.
> I am still going to make some small changes but the pics are from even before I had a chance to hear them.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/541076/stax-sigma-wood-mesh-housing/60#post_7586091


----------



## mikenyc

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Two questions for Stax folks:
> 
> 1) How much better is the SR007MK2 over the SR-507?
> 
> ...


 

 Jodet,  
   
  I picked up a SR007 MK1 about a month ago and just purchased the 323S.  I think this combination is very good, although still early days.  I have only had the 323S in my system for a few days now.  The 323S is much better with the MK1s than the T1S, which I loved with my SR202.  I think you would be very pleased with it.  There are some other comments on the forum related to the O2/323S synergy.  Just play with the search feature a little.  These comments are what convinced me to buy the 323S.


----------



## spritzer

Nothing wrong with matching the Mk2 and 323S together but I must say I'm very disappointed with the Mk2 compared to an early 007A and the Mk1.  With the Mk1 as the golden standard the 007A gives a slightly different sound (once you have adjusted them to fit your head, this is crucial as it seals the ports) with more bass bloom on the lowest registers and just a slight forward tilt to the sound.  The Mk2 on the other hand is just annoyingly bright and messes up a lot of the things that make the 007 so good.


----------



## brat

Quote: 





mikenyc said:


> Jodet,
> 
> I picked up a SR007 MK1 about a month ago and just purchased the 323S.  I think this combination is very good, although still early days.  I have only had the 323S in my system for a few days now.  The 323S is much better with the MK1s than the T1S, which I loved with my SR202.  I think you would be very pleased with it.  There are some other comments on the forum related to the O2/323S synergy.  Just play with the search feature a little.  These comments are what convinced me to buy the 323S.


 
  I'm curious what kind of music do you prefer?


----------



## Jodet

Quote: 





brat said:


> I'm curious what kind of music do you prefer?


 

 Pretty much all of it.   Bach.  Mettalica.  Dave Brubeck.  Black Sabbath.  Sibelius.  Andres Segovia.  Gary Numan.  Haydn.  Bernard Herrmann.  Pretty eclectic.


----------



## gilency

jaycalgary said:


> "I love my Sigma/404's"
> I love my diy Sigma/407's




Great project you got going there. Would love to hear and compare......


----------



## mikenyc

I listen to everything except country. Listened to mk1/323s today with beck, steely dan, and jazz at the pawnshop. All sounded fantastic. Also able to listen to some redbook rips that were disappointing on the stax basic system and with mk1/t1s. A few of these now sound really good.


----------



## milosz

OK, so I found a pair of SR-007's I could afford, they are MKII's, and are on their way. _Waa-hoo!_
   
  I have an SRM-T1  and  an  SRM-1/MK2 for my Lambda Signatures, so with the SR-007  I will likely want a  better amplifier. 
   
  I like building stuff; have some level of skill and 40 years soldering / fabricating experience.... can anyone suggest some very good DIY amps for the SR-007's?
   
   
   
  =========================================================================================
I was just thinking about the "40 years experience" part- where does the time go? - I realized that I was probably listening to a good headphone rig before many of the current Head-Fier's were born.  MAN does that make me feel old!  Ha ahhahahha.
   
In 1971  I had a pair of ESP-9's, an SAE MK XXX preamp, Harmon-Kardon Citation 12 power amp, Philips 212 turntable with ADC  XLM cartridge, Akai GX-365 open reel deck, Dynaco FM-5 tuner.  ESP-9's were probably the best headphones available at that time, I would guess.  This setup sounded pretty good.  I also had an AR XA turntable and Sure V15 pickup, but to me the ADC in the Philips sounded better.  Those ESP-9's were horribly uncomfortable if used for more than 30 minutes or so.


----------



## deadlylover

I would cook up a KGSSHV, it's cheap(relative) and cheerful, and it's a new design so sourcing parts isn't that big of a problem.
   
  But if that isn't enough for you, there are 5 letters out there that remain the holy grail for Stax users. D I Y T 2.


----------



## livewire

Precisely, deadlylover knows.
   
  @milosz,
  I hope that you have a high voltage blast suit. <j/k>
  The extremely high voltages flying around inside these amplifiers are lethal. No joke, one wrong move and it can stop your heart.
  Your DIY skills should be honed for safety.
  If you contemplate building one of these, please read the associated threads at the other site in their entirety before proceeding.
   
  The DIY T2 is an advanced project, the most exotic stat amp ever.
  The KGSSHV is a medium difficulty build, it ended up being a challenge for me in more ways than one.
  Figure on spending approx $1K _*in parts only *_for a KGSSHV or $4K for a T2.
  Costs are relative depending on casing and component quality and could vary from -25% on the low side to sky's the limit on the high side.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Precisely, deadlylover knows.
> 
> @milosz,
> I hope that you have a high voltage blast suit. <j/k>
> ...


 

 I once worked on a linear accelerator which operated at 85,000 volts, with 0.500 amps available from the power supply. Big particle accelerators are fascinating machines. The thing was obsolete, built by Atomic Energy of Canada Ltd., but had cost a bundle so the hospital that owned it wanted to have it fixed.  The biggest danger from that contraption was the depleted uranium used to shield the beamhead. You couldn't use steel tools around that, because they would strike sparks easily and since there's always some radioactive isotopes left in depleted uranium, the burning metal in the sparks constitute an inhalation hazard. We had to use beryllium-copper tools there.... 
   
  I've also worked on a number of CT scanners and electron-beam Xray systems, along with ordinary Xray gear, although potentials in ordinary Xray equipment doesn't usually go above 35,000 volts or so.
   
  I built an RF amplifier once (for use on the AM broadcast band) which had a 5,000 volt power supply for the output tubes, capable of well over one amp of current.
   
  So,  I figure I am qualified to work on tube headphone amp projects.  I promise not to use any depleted uranium. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  The cost might be another issue, of course.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I would cook up a KGSSHV, it's cheap(relative) and cheerful, and it's a new design so sourcing parts isn't that big of a problem.
> 
> But if that isn't enough for you, there are 5 letters out there that remain the holy grail for Stax users. D I Y T 2.


 


  DIY T2 - is this the same as Dr. Gilmore's "Blue Hawaii?"
   
  I've googled DIY T2  and HEADPHONE DIY T2  and I see some stuff over at Headwize - there's the Blue Hawaii and some other stuff, but no "DIY T2"
   
  Can anyone provide links to the DIY T2 (if different from the Blue Hawaii)  and the KGSSHV?


----------



## milosz

OK  so now I see that the DIY T2 is not = Blue Hawaii.  
   
  Hmmm. Interesting.  A complicated build, lots of parts in this thing. LOTS.  I'm looking now to see if PCB's are available, if they are not it makes this project like ten times more work and increases the probability of smoke by many powers of ten....
   
  I don't smoke and my gear shouldn't either.


----------



## milosz

OK so it looks like boards have been designed for this DIY T2 and a run of them was fabbed, not sure if any are left from that run or if another run is planned but anyway there are apparently Gerber files somewhere so that means boards can be made, even if one has to resort to custom boards.  Apparently someone is also out there winding transformers for this thing.....
   
  So, while this looks really very complicated in terms of getting the needed stuff, it does appear to be POSSIBLE.   This is encouraging.  I was looking for a new longer term project.  
   
   
  One thing, I wish I had access to a small CNC shop, I'd love to work on some topnotch casework.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I once worked on a linear accelerator which operated at 85,000 volts, with 0.500 amps available from the power supply. Big particle accelerators are fascinating machines. The thing was obsolete, built by Atomic Energy of Canada Ltd., but had cost a bundle so the hospital that owned it wanted to have it fixed.  The biggest danger from that contraption was the depleted uranium used to shield the beamhead. You couldn't use steel tools around that, because they would strike sparks easily and since there's always some radioactive isotopes left in depleted uranium, the burning metal in the sparks constitute an inhalation hazard. We had to use beryllium-copper tools there....
> 
> I've also worked on a number of CT scanners and electron-beam Xray systems, along with ordinary Xray gear, although potentials in ordinary Xray equipment doesn't usually go above 35,000 volts or so.
> 
> ...


 

 Intersting read about the LA's and the depleted uranium. We have a few here at the hospital where I work.
  I got to help decommission one once to make way for a newer installation.
  The old one was made in the early 1980's and used nixie tubes for the coordinate data read out at it's computer console.
  Ok, so you are imminently qualified to build a little stat amp.
   
  There is a group buy going down on boards at the other place. The ship leaves the dock tonight. Better get onboard asap.
  Sorry, not allowed to post links here. You should be able to find it.


----------



## milosz

Not all LINACs use depleted uranium shielding, I'm sure, probably only the wacky AECL units use it.  It has a higher density than lead, hence greater shielding ability for a given thickness.  The AECL engineers wanted to limit size and so they used the thinner DU shielding.


----------



## nattonrice

Quote: 





milosz said:


> OK  so now I see that the DIY T2 is not = Blue Hawaii.


 

 The equals sign should really be an approximation sign.
  Afaik the original BH was Kevin's alcohol induced interpretation of the t2 with-out (I believe) having seen the original schematic.
   
  Hehe there's more humor in the above than I intended.


----------



## MrGreen

Hi.

 I have a Stax T1, and as some of you may know, it has two stereo inputs (2x L/R RCA) - for a total of four input jacks. I have an audio interface, and I'd like to know how said RCAs function.
   
  The Audio interface in question has balanced TRS outputs. What I want to know is, how the RCAs work. Eg. If I run two seperate outputs for L/R, and have them split into TWO mono RCA (so two will carry a balanced signal in mono when combined) - will the RCA sockets work like a balanced connector?

 Or am I better off using a TS to single RCA for each channel?

 Thank you


----------



## deadlylover

The extra set of RCA's are a loop out. So for example, you can hook up your power amp for the speakers to the Stax amp.


----------



## MrGreen

Ok thanks, I'll go for the TS then


----------



## driggs

Hello - new here, thought I'd start off by asking...

   

  Why are there 2 outputs on my Stax 007tII amplifier when all the power is needed just to drive one set of SR007 (Omega II) headphones??    Aren't all electrostatic headphones power-hungry, meaning you'll never put 2 headsets on just one amp???  

   

  Also, I can actually _hear_ that the 007tII is struggling with my Omega II's and I have the SR009's on order hoping that their extra sensitivity will mean that the 007tII is a perfect match.  Any one have any experience on this match and any views on whether my assumption is correct?  I mean, I know that there are other amps out there (e.g. Woo) but was hoping that the 009's are much better with the 007tII than the Omegas....

   

  Cheers!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Hi.
> 
> I have a Stax T1, and as some of you may know, it has two stereo inputs (2x L/R RCA) - for a total of four input jacks. I have an audio interface, and I'd like to know how said RCAs function.
> 
> ...


 

 If you want to convert the inputs of the T1 to balanced, ask Spritzer how to do it. It involves replacing the volume control, 2 input RCA's with mini-XLRs and some resistors IIRC.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Hows does Stax warranty works ?
  Mine is supposedly 6 months old but I don't have any reciep only the box with the serial number and code bar with the stamp of the distributor.


----------



## MrGreen

Thanks for the info, John. I may need to do it, as I can't seem to find whether or not the TRS out jacks support both bal/unbal like the ins.

 I'll have to contact the manufacturer, as this whole unbal synth -> bal interface is really doing my head in, electrically for some reason


----------



## dukja

I had a spritzer modded SRM-1 MK2 pp that takes my balanced DAC input.  When I got it from another headfier, it had three bad resistors.  After replacing good ones in, the SQ was at similar level of my new 323S but with different flavor due to the balanced input.  The balanced input moves the stage farther and open up the space to accommodate larger dynamic range.  However, the DC output from the PSU was a little bit weak, which makes SQ a little bit lean.
   
  Today I finally got the parts and replace the diodes and resistors on the PSU side (poly caps were not replaced since the one I got are too big to fit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.  The eletrolytic ones have been replaced by spritzer.)  After redo the bias and offset, I got the DC output back to spec, and now the SRM-1 really shines.  The bass (actually all over the spectrum) impact was greatly improved.  And the soundstage advantage from balanced input still remains.  Now it is really head to head with my new 323S.
   
  Next step will try to replace those poly caps and other diodes.  I also got bipolar transistors, but svry warm me about the potential of not able to re-balance.  Thanks for the heads-up.  Will report back later...
   
  The bass performance of SR-407 with both amps really surprises me.  Before I got Stax, I always has the impression that bass impact may be the issue, but now I am totally satisfied with 407.  It was so good now that I do not miss my T1 and HE-6 at all if I can only keep one.


----------



## svyr

dukja said:


> I had a spritzer modded SRM-1 MK2 pp that takes my balanced DAC input.  When I got it from another headfier, it had three bad resistors.  After replacing good ones in, the SQ was at similar level of my new 323S but with different flavor due to the balanced input.  The balanced input moves the stage farther and open up the space to accommodate larger dynamic range.  However, the DC output from the PSU was a little bit weak, which makes SQ a little bit lean.
> 
> Today I finally got the parts and replace the diodes and resistors on the PSU side (poly caps were not replaced since the one I got are too big to fit
> 
> ...




>poly caps were not replaced since the one I got are too big to fit . 

ah yes, forgot to mention that. For my unit, the blue ones had barely/just enough space 


>I also got bipolar transistors, but svry warm me about the potential of not able to re-balance. 

I think either spritzer or kevin said you might need to replace the carbon pots depending on the transistor.


----------



## svyr

heh, we should really post a page in DIY on the suitable parts for transistors, diodes, vol pot (bal/unbal), extra resistors for bal and where they go (and any other changes), caps (sizes and types, incl for styro replacement), some measurements of expected voltages (esp in the PSU section and bias). I was going to at some point, but still can't be bothered. Every 1-2 months someone ends up PMing me about the parts or measurements for SRM-1/mk2 repair or upgrades though and I keep copy pasting from old PMs  .

It's also sort of scattered across this thread, along with the old SRM-1/mk2 transformer rewiring that occasionally comes up.


----------



## milosz

I managed to get in the group-buy for the DIY T2 boards.  Just in the nick of time, so to speak.  Now I have to collect all the other stuff and also (apparently) build a rig to measure FETs for matching, as matched FETs seem to be needed in this thing. It's all pretty interesting. Lots of fun.
   
  Someone is looking into having a batch of casework machined for the DIY T2s. This apparently is the second batch of  DIY T2s to be set loose upon an unsuspecting humanity.... 
   
  Here's some of what I've learned so far:

 There were 47 of the factory T2 amps sold by Stax 
 15 or so of the first batch of DIY T2s have either been built or are being built
   
  It's a pretty exclusive amplifier, I'd say; even when this second batch of DIY T2s is built, there will be less than 100 T2s in existence, a number which includes all the factory Stax T2s and all the DIY T2s.
   
  The DIY T2s are supposedly better, they have regulated power supplies galore, while the Stax T2 used fairly conventional transformer / diode / capacitor unregulated supplies mostly.
   
  Someone ought to raise a statue to Kevin Gilmore, he's done *heroic* levels of design work on this stuff; and around that statue ought to be smaller monuments to all of the generous guys who organize and often FUND group buys etc.  My hat is off to them, too!
   
  (An aside: I wonder  if we could ever convince Kingwah over at Audio-Gd to design / sell an electrostat amp????)
   
  This electrostatic thing has really gotten me.  Maybe I can build a set of giant Sigma-like earcups and strap my Quad ESL-57's to my head.....


----------



## deadlylover

Yeah the DIY T2 project is really something special. There's just something magical about continuing the Stax T2 legacy, as in today's economy, Stax just can't make them anymore for anything resembling a rational price. Hell, the original T2 was still "built to a budget".
   
  And it really goes to show, Stax are completely badass. They know *exactly* how their headphones are supposed to be driven. And it wouldn't surprise me if they still have a couple of 'monsters' left in the factory to help voice their new headphones.


----------



## dukja

Quote: 





svyr said:


> heh, we should really post a page in DIY on the suitable parts for transistors, diodes, vol pot (bal/unbal), extra resistors for bal and where they go (and any other changes), caps (sizes and types, incl for styro replacement), some measurements of expected voltages (esp in the PSU section and bias). I was going to at some point, but still can't be bothered. Every 1-2 months someone ends up PMing me about the parts or measurements for SRM-1/mk2 repair or upgrades though and I keep copy pasting from old PMs
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Why don't you put all your writing (starting from the SRM-1 mk2 review) into a wiki here so that all the nice but scattered information from spritzer and Kevin can be kept.  I can help some with what I gathered from spritzer.  I even saw one person at the other site referring to your post trying to get some suggestion but just being treated poorly there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  So those info will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## svyr

well, idk about wiki (the editor is probably very annoying for it), let's start with a thread....Should be easy, although not editable by everyone....

I'll start a thread in the DIY section and PM you a link/cross post one here. Would be a pity if all the info from spritzer and kevin went to waste when there are so many SRM-1/mk2s floating around waiting to be refurbished (you could pick up a half-dead one for $400 and then refurb it for another 100 or so, probably even balance it for the same amount (of course I'm not counting time spent)...(exc for the transistors, especially the hard to replace JR109 transistors )... There's also the info for rewiring the transformer that I think is somewhere in the thread.

Will probably take a couple of weeks to sift through my PMs for useful info/and or I wonder if there's a pic of voltage/resistance measurements (ballpark in-line, without the need to desolder) for the unit somewhere that I had before on an A3 pic of the schematics.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





driggs said:


> Also, I can actually _hear_ that the 007tII is struggling with my Omega II's and I have the SR009's on order hoping that their extra sensitivity will mean that the 007tII is a perfect match.  Any one have any experience on this match and any views on whether my assumption is correct?  I mean, I know that there are other amps out there (e.g. Woo) but was hoping that the 009's are much better with the 007tII than the Omegas....


 
   
  I'm pretty happy with a 007t as the amp for my 009s so far. I'll probably feel differently once I get a KGSS built, but I felt it was, to quote The Monkey, a bit too "polite" with the O2 MKIs.
  
  Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Yeah the DIY T2 project is really something special. There's just something magical about continuing the Stax T2 legacy, as in today's economy, Stax just can't make them anymore for anything resembling a rational price. Hell, the original T2 was still "built to a budget".
> 
> And it really goes to show, Stax are completely badass. They know *exactly* how their headphones are supposed to be driven. And it wouldn't surprise me if they still have a couple of 'monsters' left in the factory to help voice their new headphones.


 

  Some of the DIY builds of the T2 are exceeding the cost of a Blue Hawaii SE I gather. It's pretty crazy.  Tempting though it is to get boards for the T2, I've decided to stick to the KGSSHV as my end-game goal.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Yeah the DIY T2 project is really something special. There's just something magical about continuing the Stax T2 legacy, as in today's economy, Stax just can't make them anymore for anything resembling a rational price. Hell, the original T2 was still "built to a budget".
> 
> And it really goes to show, Stax are completely badass. They know *exactly* how their headphones are supposed to be driven. And it wouldn't surprise me if they still have a couple of 'monsters' left in the factory to help voice their new headphones.


 

 Indeed. The problem with electrostats is that you can't just grab a SOTA amp like an Apex Pinnacle and plug em in. Even beyond the DIY T2, I'm glad that companies like Headamp are providing support for truly SOTA electrostatic setups where Stax either can't or won't.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I'm pretty happy with a 007t as the amp for my 009s so far. I'll probably feel differently once I get a KGSS built, but I felt it was, to quote The Monkey, a bit too "polite" with the O2 MKIs.
> 
> 
> Some of the DIY builds of the T2 are exceeding the cost of a Blue Hawaii SE I gather. It's pretty crazy.  Tempting though it is to get boards for the T2, I've decided to stick to the KGSSHV as my end-game goal.


 

 Get both board sets, that's what I'm doing.
  Wont cost a lot to hold on to them and I am sure resale wouldnt be a problem in the future.(if you decided to off them)
  Prolly too late for that now, the group buy is locked down.
  Good luck with your KGSSHV build, I bet that you will still be longing for that T2 after it's done.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I managed to get in the group-buy for the DIY T2 boards.  Just in the nick of time, so to speak.  Now I have to collect all the other stuff and also (apparently) build a rig to measure FETs for matching, as matched FETs seem to be needed in this thing. It's all pretty interesting. Lots of fun.
> 
> Someone is looking into having a batch of casework machined for the DIY T2s. This apparently is the second batch of  DIY T2s to be set loose upon an unsuspecting humanity....
> 
> ...


 


  Well the other thing is the semis aren't your run of the mill $.50 pieces, some of them are $6 or $7 each. I think I am up to $250 in sand for just the amp section and that is with getting in on some attractive group buys that slashed the price of them in half


----------



## milosz

My SR-007 MK II's arrived today. I like them.
   
  I like them more on my SRM 1  MK II than I do on my SRM-T1, I woulda thought just the opposite.
   
  On the tube amp there's too much midbass, low bass is flabby too.  Upper mids and treble are nice.
   
  On the SRM 1 there's a better mid / low frequency balance and bass is tighter, punchier.  Mids are good.  Highs are good, but not as good as they could be.  A little "scratchy."  Kinda.
   
  It'll be a year before I finish the DIY T2 but I am looking forward to having a better amplifier, although the old Stax jobs are pretty decent really. Not "reference" but pretty darn good.
   
  One thing I noticed with the SR-007's.  When I adjust the headset on my head, move the earcups around, there's that usual Stax "crackle."  (Which is scary, what is going on?)  It seems like the air pressure changes from moving the earcups around on my head are pushing the diaphragms into the stators, is that really arcing I hear?  Or is it just the dust covers crinkling?  The right earcup does this a lot more readily than the left, a better seal on that side I'd guess.
   
  I notice this with my Lambdas too.  I hope it's not destroying my Staxes.


----------



## deadlylover

Don't worry, the sound is normal (and quite scary sounding on the O2's eh?), that's just how they roll. We call it the Stax fart.
   
  Have fun playing with the fit, it took me quite a long time to get them to fit and sound the way I wanted.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Don't worry, the sound is normal [...]


 


  ...and VERY annoying.


----------



## svyr

leonardo drummond said:


> ...and VERY annoying.




lol, i even posted it as a 'major drawback' of electrostatics in one of the threads asking what sort of problems you might have with them or what their weaknesses are.
A few pages back someone suggested putting a small straw or tube under part of a pad to relieve the pressure, that was for /\, but you can try it for 007 as well.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I like them more on my SRM 1  MK II than I do on my SRM-T1, I woulda thought just the opposite.
> 
> On the tube amp there's too much midbass, low bass is flabby too.  Upper mids and treble are nice.
> 
> On the SRM 1 there's a better mid / low frequency balance and bass is tighter, punchier.  Mids are good.  Highs are good, but not as good as they could be.  A little "scratchy."  Kinda.


 
   
  It's partly a voltage swing issue. The 007 demands voltage, and the SRM-1 Mk2 has more of it than the T1 does. None of the in or out of production Stax tube amps have near enough voltage swing. (T2 excepted of course). The T1 was 300V, the 007Tii has 340V. To get the Omega 2 really moving, you need 400V+.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> It's partly a voltage swing issue. The 007 demands voltage, and the SRM-1 Mk2 has more of it than the T1 does. None of the in or out of production Stax tube amps have near enough voltage swing. (T2 excepted of course). The T1 was 300V, the 007Tii has 340V. To get the Omega 2 really moving, you need 400V+.


 
   
  It's safe to assume its pretty much an issue of MOAR POWER. I think the O2 tends to love having some standing current on the output devices to munch on.
  
  Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> ...and VERY annoying.


 
   
  Yeah it's pretty annoying when you're trying to enjoy a spot of breakfast while listening/watching something and PSHHWT PSHHWT.
  I just intentionally wear the O2's wrong to break the seal in that case


----------



## MrGreen

That sound is famously known as the "stax fart". It has to do with the lightness of the diaphram, and the currents (change in air pressure), caused when you push the cups on your ears, or sometimes move them. You're essentially moving the diaphragm, and they're accentuating the sound of the air.

  This same principle has been adopted by Stax in their line since the Lambda Signature, I believe, which was the first to remove mechanical damping, and just use the air pressure around us to stop the diaphragm once flux has stopped (since the "plate" is a low mass and wide surface area, the wind resistance stops it very quickly, although not as quick as many dynamic systems).
   
  BoPET (the material the diaphragm is made from) has a relatively high tensile strength, so you won't be damaging it. It's certainly less stressful than playing music through them.


----------



## Amarphael

It's a bit puzzeling me that i have no issue whatsoever with the fart when i'm with the O2 on, even though i  don't eat while wearing them i do occasionally yawn (late night listening) and grooving with the music and no unwanted sounds bother me at all. Only when i adjust the earcups that i get the PSHHWT PSHHWT lol... Does this mean i don't have a proper seal? But they sound so goooooood.


----------



## manaox2

I'm like you, all of my STAX only make that noise  when adjusting the earcups. I was confused about what people were talking about with the STAX fart for a while. I think it has to do with the seal and the shape of one's head. And I have to agree, they sound ridiculously good if I'm not getting a proper seal. I've been lucky it seems, I was also able to get a proper seal with the small Qualia.


----------



## n3rdling

If you're getting the fart that's a good thing.  It means you're getting a good seal, which plays a big role in making the bass more linear for instance.


----------



## milosz

OK, yeah, I figured it had to do with pressure changes inside the cavity from moving the earcups while they have a seal to my head. I was just worried there might be arcing which I feared  would harm the diaphragms a little each time it happened.
   
  On my Lambdas, if I fuss a little with the earcups while wearing them I'll get the same "Stax fart" sometimes, occasionally followed by kind of a modestly loud "click/pop" in one driver or the other, after which the farting stops on that side.  Kind of sounds like the driver is "popping itself out" all at once from being in a "sucked in" position due to a lowering of the air pressure in the earcup cavity caused by adjusting the 'phones position a little.
   
  I never heard this with my old ESP-9's, not that I can recall.  Maybe they didn't seal as well.  Their earpad material was rather stiff on those babies.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> ...and VERY annoying.


 

 My Beyer ET1000's are way worse.  And it's like the charge on the stators or diaphragm gets lost when they "fart" 'cause after the fart the level on that side is low / funny sounding but slowly comes back like they are charging back up.  Takes about 30 seconds to "recover."  Very annoying!  Could be that my cables are so rotten, and the "energizer" so weak that it makes for bad charging.  I am replacing the cable with a Koss ESP950 cable once I find a suitable 6-pin plug so I can use the Beyers on the  low-bias jacks on my Stax SRM-T1 and SRM-1 Mk II


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> That sound is famously known as the "stax fart". It has to do with the lightness of the diaphram, and the currents (change in air pressure), caused when you push the cups on your ears, or sometimes move them. You're essentially moving the diaphragm, and they're accentuating the sound of the air.
> 
> This same principle has been adopted by Stax in their line since the Lambda Signature, I believe, which was the first to remove mechanical damping, and just use the air pressure around us to stop the diaphragm once flux has stopped (since the "plate" is a low mass and wide surface area, the wind resistance stops it very quickly, although not as quick as many dynamic systems).
> 
> BoPET (the material the diaphragm is made from) has a relatively high tensile strength, so you won't be damaging it. It's certainly less stressful than playing music through them.


 

 What you hear is from the membranes either side of the diaphragm, not the diaphragm itself, just FYI.


----------



## MrGreen

Thanks for the correction, interesting to know!


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Hahahahaha yes, it's particularly bothersome when I'm at the climax of a piece, completely imerse, and then for some reason decide to change my position or to yawn, and that scarily loud noise comes out of nowhere.
   
  And Milos, that must be truly horrible then!


----------



## K3cT

Has anyone here heard the Stax DAC Talent before? I wonder how it stacks up against the latest crop of mid-to-hi-fi DACs.


----------



## TruBrew

I have a problem. one of the driver brakets on my Sr-507 fell off the headband. What type of screwdriver do I need. It looks like some type of tine hex screw. Also there are 3 washers. one plastic, one thick metal, and one thin metal. I am not sure of the placement. If I knew what type of screwdriver to buy, I guess I could disassemble the other and figure it out on my own, but I would rather not take it apart.


----------



## svyr

trubrew said:


> I have a problem. one of the driver brakets on my Sr-507 fell off the headband. What type of screwdriver do I need. It looks like some type of tine hex screw. Also there are 3 washers. one plastic, one thick metal, and one thin metal. I am not sure of the placement. If I knew what type of screwdriver to buy, I guess I could disassemble the other and figure it out on my own, but I would rather not take it apart.




have a look at my review, I had the same problem with the SR-507 on my one.... and I asked the same questions lol.. If you take apart the second one you will have to veeeery good care to see which way the washers go... I couldn't do it and they flew all over the place.


but yea, aside from the subpar comfort from my point of view, I thought the cup holder falling off was really crap... At least it happened to me when I was picking them up from the bubble wrap I store them on... If it fell on the floor that'd be bad. Thanks...Stax...That was really awesome ...

http://www.head-fi.org/products/stax-sr-507-electrostatic-earspeaker/reviews/4453 basically it's a star screwdriver thing you get in 'tamperproof' or security screwdriver sets. It's NOT a hex tool lol.


----------



## TruBrew

Thanks, I will go to Ace tomorrow and see if they sell them. Do you happen to remember what size it was? If not I will just buy a set. I don't want to take the screw with me and possibly lose it.


----------



## svyr

the right size star screwdriver head is marked cr-v t6.


----------



## wind016

Hi everyone!
   
  I guess I'm joining the Stax club now =)  I bought a Stax SR323s amp while I'm waiting on another amp that's being built. I'm using the SR323s to power the 007 mk1 and I'm VERY happy with what I'm hearing. What I'm most happy of is that it's a fairly affordable combo ($2300 total for headphone and amp for me) without much faults that I can hear. I suppose the SR323s would be a great amp to get for the 007 and I can imagine this system being the end of the road for some Head-fiers. I'm just waiting on my other amp and see how they fare against each other, but I probably won't be making any more headphone equipment purchases anymore. This is pretty much it for me in Head-fi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Well, I'm off to music forums!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





currawong said:


> What you hear is from the membranes either side of the diaphragm, not the diaphragm itself, just FYI.


 
   
  Yeah, that's what I figured, the "dust covers."  The drivers are, like, wrapped in cellophane.  Electrostatic speakers and 'phones need them because without them the electrostatic charge would collect dust, a LOT of dust. This would eventualy cause arcing or corona discharge type things.
   
  My Quad ESL-57's have them too.  Funny, you'd expect them to have some kind of big effect on sound quality,  but in fact they are really pretty much transparent.  They are somewhat loose, not under real tension and are really low in mass, so they don't interact much with the sound passing through them.


----------



## milosz

Hmmm. After listening to the SR-007's on the SRM1/Mk II for a couple of days I plugged my Lambda Signatures into the SRM1/Mk II and did not like the sound.  The SR-007's sounded OK on the SRM1/Mk II but with the Lambda Signatures, highs are too 'gritty' or 'scratchy'- almost 'shrill.'
   
  The Lambda Signatures sound real nice on the (tube) SRM-T1, but not really very nice on the solid state amp.  The SR-007's are closer to neutral, while the Lambda Signatures have a little treble-forward sound to them and are not as full in the bass but still there is something to be said for their sound. A lot to be said for it.
   
  Lambda Signatures (actually mine are darker brown)


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> I guess I'm joining the Stax club now =)  I bought a Stax SR323s amp while I'm waiting on another amp that's being built. I'm using the SR323s to power the 007 mk1 and I'm VERY happy with what I'm hearing. What I'm most happy of is that it's a fairly affordable combo ($2300 total for headphone and amp for me) without much faults that I can hear. I suppose the SR323s would be a great amp to get for the 007 and I can imagine this system being the end of the road for some Head-fiers. I'm just waiting on my other amp and see how they fare against each other, but I probably won't be making any more headphone equipment purchases anymore. This is pretty much it for me in Head-fi!


 

 Congrats, does that mean that the HD-598 isn't the greatest headphone ever anymore?


----------



## lyricalmoments

Guys, I just got a quote from the local authorised dealer about fixing the channel imbalance for the Omega II mark 2... USD$1500 man....what the....
   
  I don't think they even bother to examine the problem, just said "oh, drivers need to be replaced in cases like this, ordering parts from Japan and labour cost will work out to USD$1500".
   
  Can someone please point me to where I can get the channel imbalance problem fixed? Tried calling Stax Japan, but none of their staffs could understand English


----------



## deadlylover

OUCH, you can almost get a new one for that much. Where are you located?
   
  I'd try ping up the dealers in another country, to see if they can send it in to Stax Japan for you, or maybe they'll have a more sane repair price.
   
  Good luck dude.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





lyricalmoments said:


> Guys, I just got a quote from the local authorised dealer about fixing the channel imbalance for the Omega II mark 2... USD$1500 man....what the....
> 
> I don't think they even bother to examine the problem, just said "oh, drivers need to be replaced in cases like this, ordering parts from Japan and labour cost will work out to USD$1500".
> 
> Can someone please point me to where I can get the channel imbalance problem fixed? Tried calling Stax Japan, but none of their staffs could understand English


 

 Whenever I get some interest in trying the 007's again, with the 323S this time, (based on wind016's comments), I see some comment like this one... that reminds me... that Stax stuff is a "luxury" for those who don't mind spending that kind of money, or those who can do all their own maintenence and mods. 
   
  And... even then, I'm reminded of the comments by very experienced Headfiers, who suggest any improvements in the sound over leading dynamics / orthos are so slight, that it doesn't justify the much higher cost.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> And... even then, I'm reminded of the comments by very experienced Headfiers, who suggest any improvements in the sound over leading dynamics / orthos are so slight, that it doesn't justify the much higher cost.


 
   
  Stax service if you live in the US is a mess, I don't think there's any doubt about that. So why put up with the headaches, if Stax is barely better than a dynamic or ortho? Because that's not true. Other than the R10, dynamics do not play in this league, and I think the orthos still have a ways to go as well.


----------



## lyricalmoments

I'll probably have to send it back to Japan.  Anyone else tried sending back directly to Stax Japan?


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Whenever I get some interest in trying the 007's again, with the 323S this time, (based on wind016's comments), I see some comment like this one... that reminds me... that Stax stuff is a "luxury" for those who don't mind spending that kind of money, or those who can do all their own maintenence and mods.
> 
> And... even then, I'm reminded of the comments by very experienced Headfiers, who suggest any improvements in the sound over leading dynamics / orthos are so slight, that it doesn't justify the much higher cost.


 

 The improvement is slight but it is better and it's around the same price for me. IMO, top tier dynamic/orthos have just the same level of "luxury" status. They aren't really much different from much cheaper headphones yet people pay multi thousands on systems for them. $2000 spent on an orthodynamic system gets you much less than $2000 on an electrostatic system IMO.
   
  That maintenance cost does seem ridiculous though. That's almost the same price as I paid for my 007 mk1 used. All headphones fail eventually though =/


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Well the other thing is the semis aren't your run of the mill $.50 pieces, some of them are $6 or $7 each. I think I am up to $250 in sand for just the amp section and that is with getting in on some attractive group buys that slashed the price of them in half


 

 Sorry for the noob and off-topic question, but does "sand" here refer to silicon (i.e. solid state devices - transistors and etc)?


----------



## livewire

Yes. Yes it does.


----------



## wind016

Hey guys,
   
  What is the way to wear a Stax O2? I can hear that bass fart when I press on the headphones. I'm not sure if that is supposed to happen but everything sounds fine.


----------



## n3rdling

Fart is good.  The stitching on the pads should be rotated forward somewhere between 8 and 11 o clock depending on your contour.  You can also bend the metal arcs in or out to help with the seal/comfort.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Fart is good.  The stitching on the pads should be rotated forward somewhere between 8 and 11 o clock depending on your contour.  You can also bend the metal arcs in or out to help with the seal/comfort.


 

 With the SR-007, I like the way you can rotate the earpads, rotate the center "wafers" that hold the drivers and have the cable exit along their edges, and also rotate the headband forward and aft some, all in combination, adjusting it all to get a good seal and good comfort.  It's a nice design, made possible by the fact that the drivers / earcups are circular.
   
  This Stax thing, never knew it would suck me in like this.  I went from no Stax earspeakers to having 2 Stax amps, a Stax "adapter/energizer" and three sets of Stax headphones (Sr Lambda Pro, SR Lambda Signature, and SR-007) in less than a month....  this hobby is worse than a drug addiction. At least with a drug addiction, it eventually kills you and so then you stop.....
   
  By the way, I am putting new earpads on the Lambda Pros, cleaning them up and then will sell them, if anybody needs a set, another week or so they will be FS. Their sound is just too similar to the Lambda Signatures to justify keeping both, and I like the slightly faster / treble-forward Signatures a little better.


----------



## Hammerzeit

It's been a while since I've actually listened to the 202+ExStata rig and once again it completely blew me away; the speed, clarity, and how natural the sound flows out the 202 is plain breathtaking. The HD650+Millet SS has nothing on the stax other than bass impact and comfort (those pleather makes my ears sweat like heck). I can't believe that I'll be ordering a BHSE this week. I might need to sell my 71' VW Bug


----------



## milosz

>>those pleather makes my ears sweat like heck<<
   
  Yeah, leather or pleather, HOT EARS result. I like velour.  Wish I could get velour for Stax.
   
  Hmmm... a cottage industry business opportunity maybe, making velour earpads for various headphones with leather (real or ersatz) earpads.


----------



## driggs

So, can anyone tell me why there are 2 headphones in in the Stax 007tII amp when it is designed to be paired with the higher-end Stax phones which are power hungry and need all the power of the amp (and some here say that its not even enough to drive one pair of 007's, incl. me).  I understand in some of the other Stax amps one out is normal and the other is pro, but here we have 2 pro outs!  This is the 3rd time i've posted this but no response.... it probably is a very stupid question!


----------



## bcg27

SR007s are not the only stax headphone that uses pro bias.


----------



## driggs

Yes, I know, but the question still stands!!??  Why are there 2 outputs on these amps?


----------



## Amarphael

It's so you could connect the Omegas in super-balanced configuration with a seperate cable to each channel and turn into an OMeGAWD! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  No seriously, Just beacuse it's marketed for the O2's doesn;t mean you can't buy it seperatley and use it with any 'stat phone that you'd want.


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





driggs said:


> Yes, I know, but the question still stands!!??  Why are there 2 outputs on these amps?


 

 Some users (h-f forum is just a tiny part of all stax owners) do not show such orthodox attitude and want to use 2 pairs of headphones (like O2 / Lambdas) and not bother with constant headphones switching
  Some might want to use extention cord in one socket and listen to the music in bed or such, while the other socket is for direct use close to the amplifier... and some want to have possibility to compare directly headphones... so what's the difference 1 or 2 sockets?
  In the past Stax must have had such demand (look here -> http://earsp.web.fc2.com/kakosonota/sreb3/sreb3.htm#SRE-B3) so why not? Does it really matter if you have 1 or 2 sockets?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





wind016 said:


> That maintenance cost does seem ridiculous though. That's almost the same price as I paid for my 007 mk1 used. All headphones fail eventually though =/


 


 Short of serious abuse,most Stax phones are good for decades if not a lifetime.  The phones are very simple in construction and unless you actually burn out a diaphragm, and that is rare on the newer phones, most other problems are cables and connections which many people can fix on their own.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





driggs said:


> So, can anyone tell me why there are 2 headphones in in the Stax 007tII amp when it is designed to be paired with the higher-end Stax phones which are power hungry and need all the power of the amp (and some here say that its not even enough to drive one pair of 007's, incl. me).  I understand in some of the other Stax amps one out is normal and the other is pro, but here we have 2 pro outs!  This is the 3rd time i've posted this but no response.... it probably is a very stupid question!


 


  With my first Stax setup I had one phone for my girlfriend and one for myself. We liked it better than speakers - better sound and it didn't interfere with kissing.
   
  All these years later I still think women who share one's passion for music are the best!


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





driggs said:


> So, can anyone tell me why there are 2 headphones in in the Stax 007tII amp when it is designed to be paired with the higher-end Stax phones which are power hungry and need all the power of the amp (and some here say that its not even enough to drive one pair of 007's, incl. me).  I understand in some of the other Stax amps one out is normal and the other is pro, but here we have 2 pro outs!  This is the 3rd time i've posted this but no response.... it probably is a very stupid question!


 


  Adding a second pair of earspeakers doesn't appreciably degrade the sound.  Electostats need only voltage, not much current, to do their thing, so running two in parallel is not a big deal.  Also, in regards to the SRM-007 being under powered, you are right that many here say that and I agree they could use more voltage swing for greater headroom.  I can't help but think though, that many new owners confuse power and gain.  Some Stax amps, like the 007 have only moderate gain requiring the volume to be turned past 12:00 to get any reasonable sound.  This is wrongly interpreted as being under powered.  In fact, I believe Stax increased the gain on some of their more recent amps so people could believe they have more power available since they can now operate at 9:00 or 10:00 on the volume pot.  Truth is that the volume control is more linear in its later stages of travel.


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## jgazal

This is certainly the best explanation. Sometimes you want to share your passion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> With my first Stax setup I had one phone for my girlfriend and one for myself. We liked it better than speakers - better sound and it didn't interfere with kissing.
> 
> All these years later I still think women who share one's passion for music are the best!


----------



## driggs

Quote: 





sim1 said:


> Some users (h-f forum is just a tiny part of all stax owners) do not show such orthodox attitude and want to use 2 pairs of headphones (like O2 / Lambdas) and not bother with constant headphones switching
> Some might want to use extention cord in one socket and listen to the music in bed or such, while the other socket is for direct use close to the amplifier... and some want to have possibility to compare directly headphones... so what's the difference 1 or 2 sockets?
> In the past Stax must have had such demand (look here -> http://earsp.web.fc2.com/kakosonota/sreb3/sreb3.htm#SRE-B3) so why not? Does it really matter if you have 1 or 2 sockets?


 
   
  Ok, that's a good explanation.  I have 007mk2's and am waiting for my 009's.  I hate to think what'll happen with both connected to the 007tII in parallel (don't want to leave my wife out), but I will try...  let's see exactly what this voltage vs. current thing is really about...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> Adding a second pair of earspeakers doesn't appreciably degrade the sound.  Electostats need only voltage, not much current, to do their thing, so running two in parallel is not a big deal.  Also, in regards to the SRM-007 being under powered, you are right that many here say that and I agree they could use more voltage swing for greater headroom.  I can't help but think though, that many new owners confuse power and gain.  Some Stax amps, like the 007 have only moderate gain requiring the volume to be turned past 12:00 to get any reasonable sound.  This is wrongly interpreted as being under powered.  In fact, I believe Stax increased the gain on some of their more recent amps so people could believe they have more power available since they can now operate at 9:00 or 10:00 on the volume pot.  Truth is that the volume control is more linear in its later stages of travel.


 

 The SRM-007Tii is fine with the SR-507 and below, and may even be ok with the 009 if those are indeed much more efficient as I've heard around here. The Omega 2 is not efficient though, it needs voltage and with the SRM-007Tii it just isn't there. It's got significantly less voltage swing than the half as expensive 323S, less than even the original SRM-1 from 1979. The T2 was the amazing amp it was with the O2 in part because it swung 630V, which no other Stax amp to date can even touch.


----------



## driggs

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The T2 was the amazing amp it was with the O2 in part because it swung 630V, which no other Stax amp to date can even touch.


 

 Since I am relatively new in this game (long in hi end home audio but new in head-fi audio!), I dont quite understand this..


----------



## deadlylover

The T2 was the best stat amp you could get for Stax. Nothing they have released since then has even approached the amount of insanity the T2 was packing.


----------



## WilCox

Just to be clear, all of the current Stax amps can be considered to be somewhat underpowered, whether they have 350 or 450 volt swing.  To play twice as loud as a typical Stax amp, you would need approximately 1200 volt swing.  Justin's amps (HeadAmp) are the only current commercially available amps that can do that as far as I know.
   
   

 *dB Change* *Voltage* *Power* *Loudness* 3 1.4X 2X 1.23X 6 2.0 4.0 1.52 10 3.16 10 2 20 10 100 4 40 100 10,000 16
  Looking at the chart, and starting at the left, we can see than an increase of 3dB results in a voltage increase 1.4 times the original, a doubling of power, and yields only a subjective increase in loudness only 1.23 times the original. To get a doubling of loudness, it is important to note that an increase of 10dB is necessary. And to reproduce that volume through our loudspeakers, note that we require _ten times _more power from the amplifier!


----------



## deadlylover

If I recall correctly, you'd only need something like 800Vp-p for a 106db or so output from an O2. Now say a normal listening level of 90db, you won't need thaaat much voltage swing.
   
  Those Stax amps are outputting 350vrms or 450vrms, not voltage swing. Even the little 252 has more than enough voltage swing/gain that one would need. How an amp handles the load is far more important.
   
  If you plug a second headphone in, the amp won't need to swing twice the voltage, the amp would only have to throw in some more current. I could be very wrong though =P.


----------



## livewire

@ WilCox - where did you come up with that? Sumpin aint right...
   
  Also FYI, HeadAmp's KGSS has 350V rail to rail, so 700V RMS swing. BHSE - 400V rails / 800V RMS swing, IIRC.


----------



## WilCox

Stax specs their amps at rms volts and Justin specs his at peak volts. So, for an SRM-007 at 350 Vrms your would get about 480 V peak if you want to compare apples and apples.  I would like to audition a higher power Stax amp, but frankly, my 717 and 007 suit me just fine driving my O2s and are better than any dynamic rig I have ever heard.  I don't listen at high volumes so peak power is not an issue with me.  Other improvements in audio quality might be interesting though.


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





livewire said:


> @ WilCox - where did you come up with that? Sumpin aint right...
> 
> Also FYI, HeadAmp's KGSS has 350V rail to rail, so 700V RMS swing. BHSE - 400V rails / 800V RMS swing, IIRC.


 

 Here's from Justin's website on the KGSS:
   
*[size=x-small]SPECIFICATIONS[/size]*
   

 *[size=xx-small]Device Type[/size]* [size=xx-small]Solid State (JFET, Bi-Polar Transistors)[/size] *[size=xx-small]Frequency Response[/size]* [size=xx-small]5Hz-45KHz +/-0.1dB[/size] *[size=xx-small]Signal-to-Noise Ratio[/size]* [size=xx-small]inaudible[/size] *[size=xx-small]Total Harmonic Distortion[/size]* [size=xx-small]<0.008%[/size] *[size=xx-small]Gain[/size]* [size=xx-small]1000x / 60dB[/size] *[size=xx-small]Input Impedance[/size]* [size=xx-small]50K ohms[/size] *[size=xx-small]Output Voltage[/size]* *[size=xx-small]1200 Volts peak to peak[/size]* *[size=xx-small]Inputs/Outputs[/size]* [size=xx-small]1 XLR input, 1 RCA input, 1 Stax Pro-bias output[/size] *[size=xx-small]Bias Voltage[/size]* *[size=xx-small]580VDC (adjustable)[/size]* *[size=xx-small]Operating Voltage[/size]* [size=xx-small]100VAC, 120VAC, or 230VAC[/size] *[size=xx-small]Power Consumption[/size]* [size=xx-small]80 Watts[/size] *[size=xx-small]Chassis Dimensions[/size]* [size=xx-small]16.5 (L) x 16.0 (W) x 4.0 (H) inches[/size] *[size=xx-small]Weight[/size]* [size=xx-small]18lb / 8.0kg [/size]


----------



## deadlylover

The KGSS should be able to swing 1400V p-p with it's 350V rails, but it doesn't, so he rates it honestly at 1200V p-p.
   
  The Stax amp at 350Vrms rated output will be swinging nearly 1000V p-p.
   
  My head hurts again.....


----------



## El_Doug

from what I understand, it depends on how you bias the output device   the rails simply dictate the maximum potential voltage swing
  
  Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> The KGSS should be able to swing 1400V p-p with it's 350V rails, but it doesn't, so he rates it honestly at 1200V p-p.
> 
> The Stax amp at 350Vrms rated output will be swinging nearly 1000V p-p.
> 
> My head hurts again.....


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> from what I understand, it depends on how you bias the output device   the rails simply dictate the maximum potential voltage swing


 

 I don't think you can swing higher than what the rail voltages allow, Justin is awsum so he takes into account some headroom.
   
  ninjaedit: Yeah I'm agreeing with you =P, I forgot to add that it also depends on the circuits losses and any tiny DC offset. I *think* biasing the output device sets how much standing current you want at the ready, I'm unsure how it will affect the voltage swing apart from how linear the output devices will behave.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> Here's from Justin's website on the KGSS:
> 
> *[size=x-small]SPECIFICATIONS[/size]*
> 
> ...


 

 I knew you were gonna post that worthless p-p spec from his site.
  Looks good on paper to woo the masses...
  The RMS  "rail" voltage is what does the "heavy lifting" (work).
  Have you ever seen the inside of a KGSS?
  The power supply board outputs are clearly labeled 350V.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





driggs said:


> So, can anyone tell me why there are 2 headphones in in the Stax 007tII amp when it is designed to be paired with the higher-end Stax phones which are power hungry and need all the power of the amp (and some here say that its not even enough to drive one pair of 007's, incl. me).  I understand in some of the other Stax amps one out is normal and the other is pro, but here we have 2 pro outs!  This is the 3rd time i've posted this but no response.... it probably is a very stupid question!


 


  Stax headphones are not power hungry.  In fact, they use almost NO power.  They want VOLTAGE SWING, which is NOT the same as power.
   
  You can plug in 2 Lambdas, it works OK.  Stax headphones don't really use any current.... just voltage. Two sets of Lambdas won't load it down, really.  (or 407's 0r 507's etc)
   
  And 2 sets or SR-007's will work about as well as one set; which is to say, you get sound but really they need more voltage swing  than the usual Stax boxes can provide.
   
  Voltage is not the same as power.  With dynamic headphones, they actually consume power - with Stax headphones, they want voltage but use hardly any current.  That's the same as saying they don't really consume much power.  So adding a second set does not significantly load the amplifier down.  Voltage swing with a single Lambda Pro from an SRM-T1  is virtually unchanged when driving 2 Lambda Pro's.  Also, for that matter, driving 2 SR-007's, the voltage swing will be about the same as with just one pair.  With SR-007's, that voltage swing is not quite enough, but one pair or two, there's almost no difference.


----------



## svyr

milosz said:


> Stax headphones are not power hungry.  In fact, they use almost NO power.  They want VOLTAGE SWING, which is NOT the same as power.
> 
> You can plug in 2 Lambdas, it works OK.  Stax headphones don't really use any current.... just voltage. Two sets of Lambdas won't load it down, really.  (or 407's 0r 507's etc)
> 
> ...




I think what people are having a problem telling apart is the 'voltage swing' from the max output voltage (L+- and R+-), from the rated PSU voltage (R-R or peak or RMS?), drawing a distinction between these would help...


----------



## livewire

Ok, I'm no EE but I will try to explain this voltage relationship in a fairly simple manner.
  Using the KGSS design as a reference point, we will start with the *power supply output *which is
  +350 volts DC and -350 volts DC referenced to 0 volts (ground).
  So here we have a total direct current (DC) "voltage swing" potential of 700 volts.
   
  These voltages, +350 and -350 are connected to the amplifier board.
  We use the term "rails" to denote the individual "voltage highways"
  that the positive and negative voltages travel on. Some use the term "buss" instead.
   
  Inside of the amplifier board is where all of the voltage transformation magic occurs.
  The DC voltages from the power supply are turned into "quasi AC voltages"
  that conform to the audio signal that is applied to the amplifier input terminals.
   
  The amplifier's job is to magnify the small (~2V) audio input signal, then output it to the headphones.
  The KGSS employs four "gain stages" to do this along with a volume control that "attenuates"
  or cuts back on the maximum possible gain to control the outputted level to something that is comfortable for listening.
  For more reading on the KGSS theory of operation, please click on the following link and read "How it works":
   
http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore2_prj.htm
   
  Getting back to the "quasi AC voltages" mentioned above,
  The small two volt audio signal (from the source) is an alternating current (AC) voltage, also known as a varying sinusoidal waveform. (sine wave)
  Inside the amplifier, this low voltage AC audio input is superimposed over the DC high voltage that has been fed in from the power supply,
  thus magnifying the AC input signal and turning the DC rail voltages into a "quasi AC" output voltage in the process.
   
  This is where the concept of RMS and peak to peak (p-p) voltages comes into play, expressing the maximum peak potential for these varying AC sine wave voltage swings.
  If one wants to learn about RMS, wiki explains it well: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square
  Suffice it to say that RMS voltage is the part of the AC voltage waveform that actually does the work.
  Roughly speaking it comprises the lower 2/3's of the AC waveform,
  the "peak voltage" comprises the rest and is of relatively short duration when encountered during extreme amplitude excursions of the audio signal. 
  Good thing, because if it did persist and packed a "current punch", it would burn out the electrostatic drivers on the headphones.
  Stat amps are designed so the RMS rail voltages do not exceed the bias voltage (current Stax = 580VDC bias) 
  so as to prevent excursions of the diaphram into the stators, as that could cause arcing and burnout.
   
  +350VDC to -350VDC = 700V DC voltage swing at power supply (not to be confused with AC voltage "peak to peak" voltage.)
  Therefore ~~~~~~~~~~~700V AC RMS voltage swing inside of the amplifier ~= 1KV AC p-p voltage swing. (full waveform, positive and negative going phases)
   
  FWIW, Stax and most manufacturers reference the DC or AC RMS rail voltages for their products. Not the less meaningful, although greater peak to peak values.
   
  I'm sure that someone will come along to correct me in at least few aspects of my diatribe.
  Please note that the concepts above are approximations to get an idea or three across. I have not referenced applicable test frequencies, etc.


----------



## deadlylover

The voltage swing rating we are talking about takes into consideration the maximum and minimum voltages of the stators.
   
  In case of the KGSS with it's +/-350V rails.
   
  +350 front to -350 back gives +700V front to back
  -350 front to +350 back gives -700V front to back
   
  Which results in a maximum voltage swing of 1400V p-p. Note that a circuit can't actually swing all the way to it's rails, and a DC offset will lower this further, hence Headamp's rating of only 1200V p-p, which takes these losses into account, and perhaps leaving in some headroom.


----------



## Electrostax

This thread is approaching 1.000.000 views! ....


----------



## Duggeh

Carl would be proud.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





duggeh said:


> Carl would be proud.


 


 If you add the old Stax thread it is well beyond 1,000,000.


----------



## wink

Stax of viewers.................
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







  931,523 of us wretches.....


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## jcx

you'd think if some people had gainful employment they could buy Stax systems for the time they've spent reading about them


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jcx said:


> you'd think if some people had gainful employment they could buy Stax systems for the time they've spent reading about them


 


  That reminds me a little of Lee Elia's tirade at a Chicago Cubs press conference.....
   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uv23pqH9iG0  (note:  very blue language!)


----------



## driggs

Apart from the SR-007 mk2's, I'm expecting my new set of 009's.... does anyone have experience with this set using a SRM-007tII??  How does the pair match?  Does it have any of that "not enough controlled bottom-end" problem that the 007's have?  I am getting excited but nervous at the same time.... only 20 days away...


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





driggs said:


> Apart from the SR-007 mk2's, I'm expecting my new set of 009's.... does anyone have experience with this set using a SRM-007tII??  How does the pair match?  Does it have any of that "not enough controlled bottom-end" problem that the 007's have?  I am getting excited but nervous at the same time.... only 20 days away...


 

 I use the SR-009 with the SRM-007ta amp. That combination works fine, including the bass. I slightly prefer my KGSS, but the difference is quite minor.

 The main issue I have with the SR-009 is that they are somewhat fatiguing, particularly with a bright source. That's why I use them with my Marantz SACD player, and not my Sony 5400ES player. The Sony works well with my SR-007 mk1.


----------



## ardilla

I have read that Stax/electrostats *"push less air"* than dynamics/orthos and therefore can be less fatiguing. Is this true?


----------



## driggs

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> I use the SR-009 with the SRM-007ta amp. That combination works fine, including the bass. I slightly prefer my KGSS, but the difference is quite minor.
> 
> The main issue I have with the SR-009 is that they are somewhat fatiguing, particularly with a bright source. That's why I use them with my Marantz SACD player, and not my Sony 5400ES player. The Sony works well with my SR-007 mk1.


 


  Well, I'm happy that you think they match... wanted to avoid getting a larger amp, especially since they aren't available from Greece.  Are the 009's really 'fatiguing' or are they just a bit "less soft" than the 007's? Surely they can't be as "fatiguing" when compared to, say, HD800's....  I'm hoping the 009s are more revealing, not "fatiguing"... I have the Nagra CDP, sent to the Stax amp via the Nagra PLL - not exactly a "soft" source but very detailed.
   
  Anyway, I find my HD800's "fatiguing" but more open and extended than the Stax 007s, so Im hoping 009's will be the best of both worlds...
   
  BTW, I put "fatiguing" in quotes because it may not necessarily be a negative thing since "fatigue" is often associated with the mid-to-top end, the high-frequencies, the sharpness... which can work well sometimes.   


  Quote: 





ardilla said:


> I have read that Stax/electrostats *"push less air"* than dynamics/orthos and therefore can be less fatiguing. Is this true?


 

 It may be a factor... but sound-wise, the voices and top-end frequencies of the Stax 007s are just "smoother" but detailed at the same time - it's that "Stax magic".  It's just sometimes they sound veiled compared to some of the more modern cans...  I think the new generation of Stax cans have changed this now.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





ardilla said:


> I have read that Stax/electrostats *"push less air"* than dynamics/orthos and therefore can be less fatiguing. Is this true?


 


  This is not strictly correct.
   
  While it IS true that electrostatic headphones in general have somewhat limited excursion when compared to dynamic headphones, this really only impacts the maximum SPL of the lowest bass notes, where a fair amount of air needs to be "pushed."  So, compared to good quality dynamic phones, Stax tend to have a little less bass "impact" or "punch" which is related to large excursions. Don't confuse this with bass "speed" or ability to reproduce low bass- Stax phones excel in both these areas.  It's just that there are limits to how loud an electrostatic can play at 30 Hz.  Bass "impact" seems to come from short, loud low frequency bursts, and this requires generally more excursion than electrostats are capable of. 
   
  I  think that Stax headphones ARE less fatiguing than many of the dynamic and planar designs- for example the Sennheiser HD800 and HiFiMan HE-6, but I think this is because the Sennhesiser HD-800 and to a lesser degree the HE-6 achieve their high levels of "detail" by having big peaks in their treble response. Loud treble can be very fatiguing. It sounds kind of great, but if you listen loud, your ears will hurt.
   
  Stax headphones have some treble peakiness but it is gentler, and in general the Stax have a more neutral, less aggressive character, with very good midrange- I find  that when I adjust the level to a nice loud volume that I prefer, I am setting it based on what I hear in mids and upper bass, and if the treble is a lot stronger than these mids, it will make my ears hurt.    And probably eventually damage my hearing, I might add.  But I find that that my while Lambda Signatures have some treble emphasis, it is nowhere near as much as the HD800's.  I can listen quite a long time to the Stax, although with Stax I have other problems- the leather earpads make my ears hot, which doesn't happen with velour earpads like the HD800s have (or Beyers, for that matter.) 
   
   
  So I would say that Stax headphones ARE generally less fatiguing, but it is related to flatter frequency response, and not "air pushing" ability.
   
 I suppose it is also true that excursion limits of the electrostatic transducers DO limit also ultimate maximum midrange and treble SPL's, but really Stax (and other electrostatics) can produce WAY HIGHER SPL's in the mids' and highs than ANYONE would listen to, so this never becomes an issue.


----------



## vrln

In my experience, electrostatics are the only headphones that do treble correctly. Dynamics are sibilant and fatiguing (hi HD 800!), or they just roll off the treble (HD 650). Planars on the other hand don't have a soundstage...
   
  PS: put up my SRM-600 for sale in the amplification forums - yes, shameless plug  I'm downsizing my rig, keeping my SRM-323S and SR-507.


----------



## ardilla

So - which is less fatiguing - HD650, LCD-2 or STAX model XXXX ?
  
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> This is not strictly correct.
> 
> While it IS true that electrostatic headphones in general have somewhat limited excursion when compared to dynamic headphones, this really only impacts the maximum SPL of the lowest bass notes, where a fair amount of air needs to be "pushed."  So, compared to good quality dynamic phones, Stax tend to have a little less bass "impact" or "punch" which is related to large excursions. Don't confuse this with bass "speed" or ability to reproduce low bass- Stax phones excel in both these areas.  It's just that there are limits to how loud an electrostatic can play at 30 Hz.  Bass "impact" seems to come from short, loud low frequency bursts, and this requires generally more excursion than electrostats are capable of.
> 
> ...


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *milosz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> While it IS true that electrostatic headphones in general have somewhat limited excursion when compared to dynamic headphones, this really only impacts the maximum SPL of the lowest bass notes, where a fair amount of air needs to be "pushed."  So, compared to good quality dynamic phones, Stax tend to have a little less bass "impact" or "punch" which is related to large excursions.


 
   
  There is some SPL limit to any transducer and indeed electrostatic might be more limited that electrodynamic designs due to the small spacing gap between the stator. On the other hand, the membrane is so much larger than most electrodynamics that the excursion must be less for a given SPL. AFAIK, this has nothing to with impact itself unless Stax headphones are effectively non-linear well within the max SPL range, are they?
   
  I think I read in the past that this apparent lack of impact compared to electrodynamic headphones might be due to the flexible membrane (as opposed to an eletro-dynamic diaphragm that moves like piston at low frequencies). But considering that the electrostatic force is applied on the whole surface, I imagine the membrane simply moves completely in phase with max displacement at the center of the diaphragm.
   
  I would say also that my 009 has much much more impact than 007. It may have to do with the new electrode, but it could also be that the 009 is simply easier to drive so Stax amps can do it justice. In other words, not all Stax headphone have the same behavior in regards to impact and the driving amplifier might have some to do with it as well? I can't tell since unfortunately I could never hear better than my 727A...
   

  Quote: 





milosz said:


> I  think that Stax headphones ARE less fatiguing than many of the dynamic and planar designs- for example the Sennheiser HD800 and HiFiMan HE-6, but I think this is because the Sennhesiser HD-800 and to a lesser degree the HE-6 achieve their high levels of "detail" by having big peaks in their treble response. Loud treble can be very fatiguing. It sounds kind of great, but if you listen loud, your ears will hurt.
> 
> Stax headphones have some treble peakiness but it is gentler, and in general the Stax have a more neutral, less aggressive character, with very good midrange- I find  that when I adjust the level to a nice loud volume that I prefer, I am setting it based on what I hear in mids and upper bass, and if the treble is a lot stronger than these mids, it will make my ears hurt.    And probably eventually damage my hearing, I might add.  But I find that that my while Lambda Signatures have some treble emphasis, it is nowhere near as much as the HD800's.  I can listen quite a long time to the Stax, although with Stax I have other problems- the leather earpads make my ears hot, which doesn't happen with velour earpads like the HD800s have (or Beyers, for that matter.)





   
  I agree that peaks in the 6-8kHz region like the HD800 does are likely a source of fatiguing sound. I believe though that some Stax headphones have similar problems. For instance, I always thought the SR-404 to sound metallic, unnatural in the upper mids / low highs. The SR007mkII is indeed very very easy sounding to my ears, even with poor recordings. The SR009 on the other hand is much less willing to hide anything. I can't hear any particular emphasis of some bands (and the voices are for instance very natural although not overly warm / heavy / sirupy), but clearly the headphone is fatiguing if you listen loud to an average recording.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





vrln said:


> In my experience, electrostatics are the only headphones that do treble correctly. Dynamics are sibilant and fatiguing (hi HD 800!), or they just roll off the treble (HD 650). Planars on the other hand don't have a soundstage...
> 
> PS: put up my SRM-600 for sale in the amplification forums - yes, shameless plug  I'm downsizing my rig, keeping my SRM-323S and SR-507.


 

 Depends on which electrostat. The highs from the O2 Mk1 fit me like a glove. By the way, you can put your for sale items into your signature so that they appear in every post.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





ardilla said:


> So - which is less fatiguing - HD650, LCD-2 or STAX model XXXX ?


 

  Really depends on which Stax headphone you're talking about.  The O2 is probably the least fatiguing headphone there is though.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





driggs said:


> Are the 009's really 'fatiguing' or are they just a bit "less soft" than the 007's? Surely they can't be as "fatiguing" when compared to, say, HD800's....  I'm hoping the 009s are more revealing, not "fatiguing"... I have the Nagra CDP, sent to the Stax amp via the Nagra PLL - not exactly a "soft" source but very detailed.


 

 I can listen to the SR-007 mk1 for much longer periods than the SR-009 before my ears get tired. The SR-009 are technically better, but they are more tiring to listen to, unfortunately.


----------



## MrGreen

Depending on how long I've been without headphones, I find my stax to be one of the more fatiguing phones. I don't think the 007 was fatiguing but it was too dark in the setup I heard. I also find that electrostat bass can be more fatiguing than dynamic bass, because it seems less homogeneous (so changing to a track with loud, staccatto nbass can be hard to listen to)
   
  I've never felt faituged by a dynamic headphone, but i've never taken long gaps due to time constraints
   
  Stax gives me no prblems after a little while. It also depends how I am listening
   
  Stax is worth anything for the sound alone. Nothing I have heard commes close


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Depending on how long I've been without headphones, I find my stax to be one of the more fatiguing phones. I don't think the 007 was fatiguing but it was too dark in the setup I heard. I also find that electrostat bass can be more fatiguing than dynamic bass, because it seems less homogeneous (so changing to a track with loud, staccatto nbass can be hard to listen to)
> 
> I've never felt faituged by a dynamic headphone, but i've never taken long gaps due to time constraints
> 
> ...


 


 You don't say what your Stax rig is. 
   
  The Stax phones vary quite a lot in sonic signature and can vary yet again depending on what amp is use to drive them.
   
  The 007 MkI was often criticized as sounding dark with Stax tube amps, but not with other amps.  I heard several at Canjam LA 2 years ago an thought they were well-balanced but   I didn't care for their excessive fart.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> You don't say what your Stax rig is.
> 
> The Stax phones vary quite a lot in sonic signature and can vary yet again depending on what amp is use to drive them.
> 
> The 007 MkI was often criticized as sounding dark with Stax tube amps, but not with other amps.  I heard several at Canjam LA 2 years ago an thought they were well-balanced but   I didn't care for their excessive fart.


 


  Audiofire 12 - Stax T1 - Lambda Sig

 I'm aware some people consider the lambda signature bright, but frankly I don't see it looking much different frequency wise compared ot other lambdas (which are all basically perfect free-field responses). Technically speaking, my Ety ER4S are brighter, as they're not only a diffuse field curve, but they're canalphones (which means more treble is required, as documented by Moller), and I do not find them fatiguing at all. I've actually considered turning UP the treble of my lambda sigs, because I think I prefer (if only marginally), the diffuse field curve
   
   I was offering it as a general take on stax, as I've heard headphones that have a similarish sonic balance, but are less agile and more smeary with details - which is what I attribute the issue to.

   007 was from an ExStata,  think (or some tube thingy). Far from ideal, but I didn't care enough to look into it more, as it didn't suit my fancy. I have no reason to upgrade, and haven't even considered doing so since getting my stax rig. FWIW my brief experience with the 007 was not with "cold ears", which is the only time I can find the stax confronting after 3/4 of an album. Otherwise, it's fine for 2+ (which is what I always limit myself to for noise exposure and time constraint, since I usually do nothing when I listen to music)
   
  Fatigue aside, cold ear stax listening is really something else, if you're into thrill seeking. I do it by necessity, sometimes, as I wear earplugs a lot at work. It's like hearing hifi for the first time again
   
  Cheers


----------



## K3cT

When I had the 404LE and SRM-1, I couldn't listen to that combination for more than 2 hours or my ears would start ringing especially on female vocal. Too painfully peaky.


----------



## MrGreen

The only bit on the graph of the sig that looks off is the 2.5khz. The lambda pro looks essentially perfect. I might find a lambda pro way down the track when im done funding an album
   
   
  Did stax publish sr-009 frequency plots? I've seen the SR-omega plots too, which are also basically perfect


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> I can listen to the SR-007 mk1 for much longer periods than the SR-009 before my ears get tired. The SR-009 are technically better, but they are more tiring to listen to, unfortunately.


 

 Just curious how loud you listen with the SR-009? Thanks


----------



## wind016

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Depending on how long I've been without headphones, I find my stax to be one of the more fatiguing phones. I don't think the 007 was fatiguing but it was too dark in the setup I heard. I also find that electrostat bass can be more fatiguing than dynamic bass, because it seems less homogeneous (so changing to a track with loud, staccatto nbass can be hard to listen to)
> 
> I've never felt faituged by a dynamic headphone, but i've never taken long gaps due to time constraints
> 
> ...


 

 I have a bit of a differing opinion but I can understand your's. Personally, I never found the bass of the 007 fatiguing in anyway and I don't find it dark either. I find the slow bass of dynamics leaving bass pressure hanging around is much more fatiguing, but then again, I never really listen to much fast paced bass. I also find the 007 mk1 w/ SR323s to be a tad, ever so slightly bright (and I mean ever so slightly). I generally refuse to listen to music for long periods with headphones because of fatigue, but listening to Stax is about as fatiguing as listening to speakers, which is much, much less.
   
  I've never tried any other Stax though and I have my 007 mk1s EQed for some more warmth. I also find the sound of cymbals to be a bit fake, sparkly sounding without EQ. I guess I could get used to the sound of the 007 without using EQ, but I'd rather not bother.


----------



## jaycalgary

I received the O2 Mk1 I bought yesterday. I really like the build. I can see why someone would say the bass is fatiguing it sure has lots of power and can be overbearing. This may be right or wrong but I worked the headband a little bit to relive some of the clamping force. So now on me they are just snug. I can shake my head and they wont fall off and they don't give me a headache from being tight. I still get a good seal and the bass is less fatiguing to me and more open.  A couple of questions I was wondering about the 009 is if they clamp hard and if the bass is deep and powerful like the 007? 011 teaser all ready is it so and could it be as quick as say 404LE to the 507.


----------



## milosz

Hey- Wind016- that screenshot of that EQ fooled me, I thought it was HARDWARE.... haha - wow, they have really gotten good with the graphics, that looks like a photo of actual hardware.  How are you using that- VST plugin with some Windows app, or with ProTools or what?
   
  I tend to just use MediaMonkey on the PC I usually use for headphone listening, it's basically just a re-skinned Winamp with some database / playlist enhancements.  I output to a Musiland USB>SPDIF then to whatever DAC I am using.
   
  I do sometimes use a little EQ from some plugin that comes with MediaMonkey. Some 'phones I have to cut a little treble from, and some phones need a lift at 30 Hz.  But I've never used any fancy EQ.  I've got a bunch of  VST things of various types, and all kinds of software that I don't use much these days - Abelton, FL Studio, Max MSP , Adobe Audition, and a bunch of widgets that work along with these; I've never fooled with any of this stuff as processors for music listening, only as tools to use on sound creation projects.  I will have to sit down and look at this stuff again and see what I might be able to do with it in terms of processing for music listening.


----------



## realmassy

Hi all,
  another one joining the Stax club 
  Just bought the entry level 2050 system, never heard electrostatics before...so basically I don't know what to expect! Hopefully I won't regret having sold my Woo Audio 3 and HD650, but I was really looking for something more transparent.


----------



## Currawong

I've found the 009s are absolutely BRUTAL if there is any harshness in the music at all.
   
  realmassy: Congratulations.


----------



## jaycalgary

Part of the reason I bought a pair of O2 Mk1's is because am so beaten down by the high price of headphones like the 009 the 007's sounded reasonable. I do like the classy look of the 007's. Does lamb leather smell funny or maybe the NOS pads came from a musty old basement somewhere? A couple questions about the 009. Do they clamp pretty hard and is the bass as powerful like the 007?


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Part of the reason I bought a pair of O2 Mk1's is because am so beaten down by the high price of headphones like the 009 the 007's sounded reasonable. I do like the classy look of the 007's. Does lamb leather smell funny or maybe the NOS pads came from a musty old basement somewhere? A couple questions about the 009. Do they clamp pretty hard and is the bass as powerful like the 007?


 

 The 009 don't clamp hard - they are very comfortable. The bass is excellent and precise, but not as powerful as some other headphones like the LCD-2.
   
  The 009 are better than the 007 - better soundstage, better clarity, and they are less picky about the amp. The only downsides of the 009 are their high price, and the somewhat tiring nature of their sound.


----------



## jaycalgary

I have not heard the LCD-2 to hear how powerful the bass is but I was floored when I heard how much bass is coming from these O2's. I'd like to know if the 009's have more or less bass weight than the O2's?
  "The somewhat tiring nature of their sound." Hope it really is not as bad as you guys make it sound. That's a pretty bad quality don't you think? The O2's are known for close to perfect imaging. Is this even better on the 009's?


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I have not heard the LCD-2 to hear how powerful the bass is but I was floored when I heard how much bass is coming from these O2's. I'd like to know if the 009's have more or less bass weight than the O2's?
> "The somewhat tiring nature of their sound." Hope it really is not as bad as you guys make it sound. That's a pretty bad quality don't you think? The O2's are known for close to perfect imaging. Is this even better on the 009's?


 

 Everything is better on the 009 to my ears... The bass weight is similar to that of the 007, but it has somewhat better definition on the 009. Low, mids, and highs all sound clearer on the 009.  
  
  I said "somewhat tiring" - this is very far from bad. In fact, the 009 are the best headphones I've ever listened to from a technical perspective. However, this doesn't mean that they are the easiest to listen to... For long listening sessions, I prefer the 007, but the 009 are better for small dosages of music.


----------



## arnaud

Totally agree with visualguy, I would add that "you can't have the cake and eat it"... The increase in resolution and speed comes at a price: you can't expect jelly if you feed it junk...

As for the improvement in placement compared to the 007, it would appear the 009 tends more toward the original omega, with a larger soundstage. The precision of instrument placement is not altered in any way, the room just feels more real through the 009. Again, this needs mostly classical or good jazz recording to appreciate and the headphone won't make flat recordings suddenly sound good...

My 2c. anyway,


----------



## KingLocal

I am am looking to downsize a speaker rig to headphones--I am at my desk all day and so almost never listen to my speaker rig.  I have heard Stax at shows and such, and was impressed.  But, considering what I can sell my speakers for, I could EITHER get a pair of O2s and a very high-end headphone amp, OR get the 009s and a more modest amp (e.g. 717); I simply cannot afford the 009s and a top-tier amp--as Jude suggested was a "must" in Head-Fi TV, Episode 008 (though many have opined that the 009 is more forgiving of amps than the O2s).  So, my question: would I be better off with the top-tier cans and a good amp or a mega-amp and some very good cans?  Given the difficulty of seeking out high-end can/amp combinations for demo., any thoughts and/or suggestions would be very, very welcome.  Thanks.


----------



## jaycalgary

I doubt I would do it but from pics it looks like it might be possible to send the O2 away and have them upgrade the 009 drivers? From looking at pics and now having O2's I like the housing and headband better. It just looks more classier with leather also a nice lower profile. Sounds like the 009 might be a great monitor.


----------



## Asr

I finally have a BHSE and (HeadAmp-built) KGSS here at the same time and just started listening last night. I'd offer initial impressions but I suspect they're going to change. Will write something about them at some point, probably in a few weeks or so.
   
  I'm definitely intrigued by the KGSS so far, will leave it at that. I was expecting less from it but it's definitely exceeded my expectations and it's going to be tricky to figure out exactly how it differs sonically from the BHSE.
   
  Side-note: I'm not totally sure this KGSS is standard-issue, as the top panel is vented and I don't think I've ever seen a top-vented KGSS (and the pictured model on HeadAmp.com doesn't seem to have a vented top either).


----------



## visualguy

If the KGSS and BHSE are so close in sound that it would take weeks to figure out how they differ, then I would personally consider any such differences to be insignificant...
   
  I also find the KGSS to be superb with my SR-007 mk1 and SR-009. If it has any issues driving them, then I certainly don't know what they are even after listening to the SR-007 on the KGSS for 4 years now... I haven't heard the BHSE.


----------



## Asr

I didn't say the BHSE and KGSS were close sonically nor did I intend to imply that - just that it'd take me weeks to figure out how they differ, because I don't listen to my CD-based system every day. More like twice a week, if that even - recently I've been going once per week, or once every other week. My ultraportable setup has been getting far more usage over the past few months.
   
  I intend on amping up my listening frequency over the next few weeks, of course - will probably end up doing 3X per week or so.


----------



## Currawong

Asr: When are you getting 009s, by the way?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have a DIY KGSS shipping to me next week.  Looking forward to spending time with it and my O2 Mk1, HE-60, LNS and SR-003...


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Hi all,
> another one joining the Stax club
> Just bought the entry level 2050 system, never heard electrostatics before...so basically I don't know what to expect! Hopefully I won't regret having sold my Woo Audio 3 and HD650, but I was really looking for something more transparent.


 

 Transparent? Well you got it. Congratz!
  The difference should amaze you, it did me. My 2050 is a keeper.
  Their price range really cant be beat for the quality of sound they render.
  But then, the Stax sound doesnt appeal to _everybody_, only you can decide.
  Please let us know your impressions.


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Transparent? Well you got it. Congratz!
> The difference should amaze you, it did me. My 2050 is a keeper.
> Their price range really cant be beat for the quality of sound they render.
> But then, the Stax sound doesnt appeal to _everybody_, only you can decide.
> Please let us know your impressions.


 
  I will.
  Thing is, my musical taste has been changed a lot during the past 2 years: I was listening to a lot of jazz and some prog rock, and just a bit of classical.
   
  But in the last 20 months classical (especially baroque) covers 100% of my listening. And I really love the Etys ER4S with this kind of music...someone suggested I may like the Stax sound...and here we go! I should get the 2050 system tomorrow.
  
  BTW, is this amp any better than that in the 2050 system? Is it worth the extra money, assuming I'll like Stax signature?


----------



## K3cT

I think you made the right choice. The ER4 is the closest thing that resembles a Stax Lambda. Probably not as layered and detailed but tonality is very similar.
   
  SRM-1 should be a significant improvement too from whatever it's bundled with the 2050 system. I seem to prefer a tube-based energizer for Lambdas as they help to take off the roughness/etch a bit from their upper mid/lower treble which can be overpowering sometimes. The 202 is still acceptable in that regards though so no worries about upgrading to the SRM-1. 
   
  And Asr, the KGSS that I tested also has top vents. It's a recent build (mid to late 2010 I think) so I suppose it's a new addition?


----------



## realmassy

Thanks for your reply K3cT...really can't wait to try them 
  What is the cheapest (basic) tube amplification for Stax? the Woo GES? anything else?


----------



## MrGreen

There is no viable alternative to Etymotic beyond a stax rig IMHO. It took me a solid year of searching to find something that was a game ender
   
  The stax is a little different, but is overall a large improvement. The frequency response is a little different, but you can EQ the stax easily to diffuse field, and stax released a hardware EQ, but the response is basically perfect as I mentioned before
   
  I am talking from a scientific perspective, btw. If you like it or not is up to you


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> I am am looking to downsize a speaker rig to headphones--I am at my desk all day and so almost never listen to my speaker rig.  I have heard Stax at shows and such, and was impressed.  But, considering what I can sell my speakers for, I could EITHER get a pair of O2s and a very high-end headphone amp, OR get the 009s and a more modest amp (e.g. 717); I simply cannot afford the 009s and a top-tier amp--as Jude suggested was a "must" in Head-Fi TV, Episode 008 (though many have opined that the 009 is more forgiving of amps than the O2s).  So, my question: would I be better off with the top-tier cans and a good amp or a mega-amp and some very good cans?  Given the difficulty of seeking out high-end can/amp combinations for demo., any thoughts and/or suggestions would be very, very welcome.  Thanks.


 
   

 Although I am in no position to speak with authority (I have not heard better than Stax amps), I doubt that any amplifier can transform the SR007 so radically that it could equal the SR009 driven by one of the higher-end Stax amps.
 The two headphones sound radically different. Having compared the SR009 when driven by 323S vs. 727A amps, the differences are nowhere near those that separate the Omega 2 from the new flagship. This is not to say a KGSS or BHSE are not a significant step up, they most likely are given the large number of converts! However, I share the same feeling as visualguy in regards to amplification merits being blown out of proportion relative to the differences between transducers. In the case of Stax DIY amps, there is also possibly a strong belief that "if it measures or specs better, it must absolutely sound better". Naturally, this then quickly goes downhill for production Stax amps because they are built to certain cost and weight/size limit. 
 While I can certainly imagine the SR007 improving with better amplification than what I have (well documented, see comments by spritzer and others), I can't quite imagine it would be so drastic as to close the gap with a SR009 driven by current production Stax amp.
 Even though the Stax headphones are a difficult load, they just don't sound that bad when driven by Stax amps (to my ears a 007mkII+727A sounds already more transparent than a HD800+Lehman BCL, I don't even bring the SR009 to the table). 
 The SR009 is apparently an easier load for the amplifier compared to the Omega 2. For example, there is absolutely no sense of uncontrolled bass / mid-bass when driven by the 727 amp.
 In summary: my (possibly poor) advice would be to invest in the SR-009 now and weight your options for an amplifier later on. As I know, Stax has a plan to release a new flagship amp to match the SR-009. This is a kind of acknowledgement from Stax themselves that their current amps are a bottleneck to the SR-009 sound, but it does not prove that an optimally amplified SR007 sounds better - or let say more accurate because one may subjectively like the 007 better, esp. due to darker tonal balance -  than a SR009 through middle-of-road amplification. Also, the BHSE production has not stopped afaik, so you can always place your order later (meanwhile, you don't have to wait 1+ year to enjoy to Stax rig).
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I doubt I would do it but from pics it looks like it might be possible to send the O2 away and have them upgrade the 009 drivers? From looking at pics and now having O2's I like the housing and headband better. It just looks more classier with leather also a nice lower profile. Sounds like the 009 might be a great monitor.


 
   
  I had posted the following in one of the thread on the 009. It seems like the inner diameter of the ear-cup is different and, for all we know, the driver itself might be different diameter. So, yes both SR007 and SR009 transducers are round, but that doesn't mean you can just swap them over . Note also that the shape of the frame (how open it is at the back for example) might influence the response. Finally, you need to see the 009 upclose, there is really no comparison with the SR007 in terms of finish.
   
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Not sure the following dimensions are clear to understand but here's a shot at it, SR007mkII first / SR-009 second, all in mm:
    

  - Internal ear cup depth min: ~25 / ~20

  - Internal ear cup depth max: ~30 / ~30
   
  - Internal ear cup diameter min: 55 / 60
  - Internal ear cup diameter max: 65 / 70
   
  - Frame diameter outer: 100 / 103
  - Frame diameter inner (i.e. hole on the back): 78 / 81
   
  - Frame depth (ear pad seam to the 90 degree bend): 12-13 / ~17 
   
  - Stator perforated diameter (as seen from outside): ~55 / ~65
  - Stator distance to the rear chamber opening (e.g. hole on the back): 10? / 10?
   
  So, it would appear indeed that the rear chamber is more open (steel mesh a bit finer too) but the depth - although the measure I gave is quite approximate and could be +/-3mm off - is the same.
   
  Also, please confirm but in regards to the "chamber running along the edge of the driver" you're referring to: isn't it just the non-perforated rim of the stator? In which case, indeed this rim is thinner in the new version with significantly larger perforated area.
   ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Although I am in no position to speak with authority (I have not heard better than Stax amps), I doubt that any amplifier can transform the SR007 so radically that it could equal the SR009 driven by one of the higher-end Stax amps.
> The two headphones sound radically different. Having compared the SR009 when driven by 323S vs. 727A amps, the differences are nowhere near those that separate the Omega 2 from the new flagship. This is not to say a KGSS or BHSE are not a significant step up, they most likely are given the large number of converts! However, I share the same feeling as visualguy in regards to amplification merits being blown out of proportion relative to the differences between transducers. In the case of Stax DIY amps, there is also possibly a strong belief that "if it measures or specs better, it must absolutely sound better". Naturally, this then quickly goes downhill for production Stax amps because they are built to certain cost and weight/size limit.
> While I can certainly imagine the SR007 improving with better amplification than what I have (well documented, see comments by spritzer and others), I can't quite imagine it would be so drastic as to close the gap with a SR009 driven by current production Stax amp.
> Even though the Stax headphones are a difficult load, they just don't sound that bad when driven by Stax amps (to my ears a 007mkII+727A sounds already more transparent than a HD800+Lehman BCL, I don't even bring the SR009 to the table).
> ...


 

 Thanks for the advice arnaud.  Your suggestions seem very consistent with the prevailing views around here; it seems that people around here do not consider electronics to be nearly as important as their headphones.  I know little about cans, having been a life-long serious speaker listener and although I think that speakers are the single most important link in the audio chain, I also know from experience that electronics (and cables, isolation gear, etc.) can make a *massive* difference in listening pleasure... I would be surprised (and my pocketbook would be happy!) to learn that this is less the case with headphones but, as I said, my experience is much less than most with these things.  Has anyone actually compared, say, an O2-BHSE vs. a 009-717/727 rig?  Again, opinions and direct *experience* would be most helpful. ty again for the great feedback arnaud.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> I think that speakers are the single most important link in the audio chain, I also know from experience that electronics (and cables, isolation gear, etc.) can make a *massive* difference in listening pleasure...


 

 I frequently think about the amount of importance of each link in the audio chain and sometimes I get confused because, even though the end of the chain is the most important bit, I just learned how big of an improvement a new tube can make. The sonic difference is not that big, but in the end, the difference in listening pleasure is really big. You just nailed it, really, what you said just clarified everything to me!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> I am am looking to downsize a speaker rig to headphones--I am at my desk all day and so almost never listen to my speaker rig.  I have heard Stax at shows and such, and was impressed.  But, considering what I can sell my speakers for, I could EITHER get a pair of O2s and a very high-end headphone amp, OR get the 009s and a more modest amp (e.g. 717); I simply cannot afford the 009s and a top-tier amp--as Jude suggested was a "must" in Head-Fi TV, Episode 008 (though many have opined that the 009 is more forgiving of amps than the O2s).  So, my question: would I be better off with the top-tier cans and a good amp or a mega-amp and some very good cans?  Given the difficulty of seeking out high-end can/amp combinations for demo., any thoughts and/or suggestions would be very, very welcome.  Thanks.


 

 I would also suggest going with the 009 and one of the Stax amps, or maybe even a GES, I'm not sure that anyone has tried that combo yet. I'm very happy with my O2 Mk1 and have no plans to upgrade anytime soon, but I will be using it with a KGSSHV once it's finished. Maxing out the O2 means BHSE or DIYT2, and that means a very long wait.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Thanks for your reply K3cT...really can't wait to try them
> What is the cheapest (basic) tube amplification for Stax? the Woo GES? anything else?


 

 The SRM-006TS is cheaper than the GES. And of course there are frequently SRM-T1s for sale.


----------



## FrankCooter

If you really want to go cheap and can DIY, you might consider the Egmont. It's simple, can be easily "hot rodded" and can be built for about $300.00. With a KGSSHV  400V power supply, IXYS10M90 CCS loads on 7189 outputs, you'll have something that will be very competitive with anything in the $1.5k class. You'll have to dig around for the schematic in the DIY forum, but it's here,


----------



## driggs

Are there any after-market cables for the Stax pro cans (007mk2, 009's) that are better than the stock cables?  
   
  And.... (I know this is a dumb question but I need to ask...) is there some way of connecting a normal headphone to the Stax pro amplifiers (some kind of an adaptor from PRO --> 3.5mm)??


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





driggs said:


> Are there any after-market cables for the Stax pro cans (007mk2, 009's) that are better than the stock cables?
> 
> And.... (I know this is a dumb question but I need to ask...) is there some way of connecting a normal headphone to the Stax pro amplifiers (some kind of an adaptor from PRO --> 3.5mm)??


 

 To the first, no.
   
  To the second, yes, that is an incredibly dumb question.


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> I frequently think about the amount of importance of each link in the audio chain and sometimes I get confused because, even though the end of the chain is the most important bit, I just learned how big of an improvement a new tube can make. The sonic difference is not that big, but in the end, the difference in listening pleasure is really big. You just nailed it, really, what you said just clarified everything to me!


 

 Thanks Leonardo.  Although I cannot remember who said it (sorry), I remember once reading someone saying: "everything sounds."  I do not think truer words were ever spoken--sometimes the difference is small, sometimes it is neither better nor worse but different, but there is nothing in the playback (or recording!) chain that does not contribute to, or subtract from, the performance that you are seeking to recreate.  Although often small (like with tube rolling or, in my experience, digital interconnects, for example), the difference can be profound. 
   
  Of course a high-resolution system my be needed to *appreciate* the differences.  My main rig is a PS Audio PWD with Bridge into PMC AML1 active monitors--very resolving, but I must admit I cannot tell the difference between my commercial Diana Krall "All for You" vs. my XRCD pressing of the same--(subtle) differences I have heard on higher resolution systems.  On the other hand, with my headphone rig, AKG 701s straight out of my HP laptop, I cannot even tell the difference between low-bit-rate MP3s and the CDs from which they were ripped--something that is painfully clear on my PMC system.  Often, when I hear the "oh, you can't hear the difference anyway" crowd talk about power cords, isolation, tube rolling or whatever, I think that that is because they are listening on some crappy BOSE system--so of course they cannot hear the difference!
   
  All this has factored into my concerns about partnering less-than-Great electronics with highly revealing cans like the 009s.  But the consensus seems strong that that is the thing to do vs. O2s and high-end electronics (thanks for the feedback!); I am leaning that way... but still, I believe that everything sounds.


----------



## driggs

Quote: 





beefy said:


> To the first, no.
> 
> To the second, yes, that is an incredibly dumb question.


 

 Thanks Beefy.  I AM a 'newby'.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *KingLocal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> My main rig is a PS Audio PWD with Bridge into PMC AML1 active monitors--very resolving, but I must admit I cannot tell the difference between my commercial Diana Krall "All for You" vs. my XRCD pressing of the same--(subtle) differences I have heard on higher resolution systems.  On the other hand, with my headphone rig, AKG 701s straight out of my HP laptop, I cannot even tell the difference between low-bit-rate MP3s and the CDs from which they were ripped--something that is painfully clear on my PMC system.  Often, when I hear the "oh, you can't hear the difference anyway" crowd talk about power cords, isolation, tube rolling or whatever, I think that that is because they are listening on some crappy BOSE system--so of course they cannot hear the difference!


 
   
  The AKG would likely need a much better source and amp for you to get the most out of it. The K601 on the other hand has surprisingly little ability to scale with better equipment. I couldn't really tell the difference between my HM-801 and my Cowon with the K601, whereas with a headphone like the Beyer DT880 it's night/day in favor of the Hifiman.
   
  I think the issues with the "it all sounds the same" crowd are either mediocre equipment, a lack of critical listening skills, or just a stubborn refusal to admit that a difference could even exist because the scopes and measurements don't show it (see the review that describes the Benchmark as the best DAC in history, and mocks anyone for thinking that DACs have any sort of sound signature.)


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The AKG would likely need a much better source and amp for you to get the most out of it. The K601 on the other hand has surprisingly little ability to scale with better equipment. I couldn't really tell the difference between my HM-801 and my Cowon with the K601, whereas with a headphone like the Beyer DT880 it's night/day in favor of the Hifiman.
> 
> I think the issues with the "it all sounds the same" crowd are either mediocre equipment, a lack of critical listening skills, or just a stubborn refusal to admit that a difference could even exist because the scopes and measurements don't show it (see the review that describes the Benchmark as the best DAC in history, and mocks anyone for thinking that DACs have any sort of sound signature.)


 

 Well... for some that may be true... but... more often than not... I think it's that whatever difference in sound anyone can perceive between two phones, or components, or set ups... that difference is typically so subtle, that it simply can't justify the high cost of the "high-priced spread."  And... some persons are just "effusive" about their stuff... especially, when they need to "justify" their decisions.


----------



## Gu Sensei

@KingLocal
   
  Once the 009s start getting shipped to dealers in the US and Europe, you will start to see the direct comparisons you are seeking. There are a lot of very experienced and knowledgeable Stax folks still waiting for their 009s.
   
  I am interested to see how much the 009s change with a BHSE and have not trouble believing some nice benefits can be had. On the other had, I am extremely satisfied using the 717 and 323S with my 009s and feel no urgency to upgrade my amps nor can I identify any specific area where I feel the phones are struggling due to poor amplification. It will certainly be great news if the new Stax flagships are driven perfectly well with basic Stax amps as it sounds to me now. Personally, I will take much more interest in an amp upgrade when:
   
  1. I find a well reasoned explanation grounded in the laws of physics as to why the 717 or 323S is insufficient to drive the SR009s.
  2. I can identify in my own listening experience the specific issues caused by 'under-amping' with the amps I have.
  3. I start to read about people reliably identifying the better amp with their 009s when they only have their ears to determine the answer.
   
  I am curious about the 007/BHSE vs 009/Stax comparison as well but cannot possibly imagine that any kind of amp change can make up the ground between the 007s and 009s in technical capabilities. Another consideration would be differences in frequency responses and preference for non-fatiguing presentations. Beyond a slightly forward nature (IMO), I have never quite experienced the naked truth as I have with the 009s. For a lot of recordings, that is not a good thing. You might prefer less transparency and resolution in favor of a friendlier frequency balance and more easy on the ears listening experience.
   
  I listen to a lot of pop and rock recordings and many of them (but far, far from all) are a bit too bright and rough to really enjoy. I have been tinkering a little with equalizing with the 009s and find a 3db push down in the upper mids/treble can really help with those recordings though. Any other owners doing any equalization?


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> Thanks for the advice arnaud.  Your suggestions seem very consistent with the prevailing views around here; it seems that people around here do not consider electronics to be nearly as important as their headphones.  I know little about cans, having been a life-long serious speaker listener and although I think that speakers are the single most important link in the audio chain, I also know from experience that electronics (and cables, isolation gear, etc.) can make a *massive* difference in listening pleasure... I would be surprised (and my pocketbook would be happy!) to learn that this is less the case with headphones but, as I said, my experience is much less than most with these things.  Has anyone actually compared, say, an O2-BHSE vs. a 009-717/727 rig?  Again, opinions and direct *experience* would be most helpful. ty again for the great feedback arnaud.


 
   
  Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> I frequently think about the amount of importance of each link in the audio chain and sometimes I get confused because, even though the end of the chain is the most important bit, I just learned how big of an improvement a new tube can make. The sonic difference is not that big, but in the end, the difference in listening pleasure is really big. You just nailed it, really, what you said just clarified everything to me!


 
   
   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I think the issues with the "it all sounds the same" crowd are either mediocre equipment, a lack of critical listening skills, or just a stubborn refusal to admit that a difference could even exist because the scopes and measurements don't show it (see the review that describes the Benchmark as the best DAC in history, and mocks anyone for thinking that DACs have any sort of sound signature.)





   
  KingLocal, Neonardo and DaveBSC: I very much agree with you actually. I think the issue at hand here is that of the diminishing returns (oh do I feel like we're beating a dead horse ;0) )... I would say that - just like for loudspeakers - differences between headphones (within the same brand or even more across brands and transduction method e.g. electrostatic, electrodynamic, ortho) are much more drastic than a change in amplification (apart in case of very poor amp/can matching) or source. On the other, I also very much agree that what separates the truly excellent from what makes your spine tingles may boil down to rather small differences between components but which somehow work their magic on you (and possibly not someone else).
   
  I am an engineer and have to rationalize reality through computer models all day long. As such, I have a natural tendency to be rather cartesian. Regardless, our measurement techniques are so primitive compared to the precision of our hearing that I really have no particular mind block against finding a component A to sound better than component B even though they measure just the same or shouldn't possibly sound different if you rationalize it. This is quite difficult for some to digest. This is unfortunately also an open door for snake oils of all sorts and mind gets quickly tricked into thinking something sounds better simply because it costs so much more or looks so good... Oh oh, hear comes the dead horse again .
   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I would also suggest going with the 009 and one of the Stax amps, or maybe even a GES, I'm not sure that anyone has tried that combo yet. I'm very happy with my O2 Mk1 and have no plans to upgrade anytime soon, but I will be using it with a KGSSHV once it's finished. Maxing out the O2 means BHSE or DIYT2, and that means a very long wait.


 

 I certainly don't want to stop here myself and will get a higher end amp one of these days but, like you, I am so satisfied at the moment I don't feel the urge to blow 5kUSD into a BHSE and just have to wait so long to get it. I am from this generation that got used to "instant gratification" and it is thus so hard to imagine I could wait so long for something!
   
  Quote: 





driggs said:


> Thanks Beefy.  I AM a 'newby'.


 

 A tiny bit of background reading wouldn't hurt .
   
  Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Well... for some that may be true... but... more often than not... I think it's that whatever difference in sound anyone can perceive between two phones, or components, or set ups... that difference is typically so subtle, that it simply can't justify the high cost of the "high-priced spread."  And... some persons are just "effusive" about their stuff... especially, when they need to "justify" their decisions.


 

 We should try to list the number of threads / frequency with which we come back to the same topic of perceived, law of diminishing returns and such


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





asr said:


> I didn't say the BHSE and KGSS were close sonically nor did I intend to imply that - just that it'd take me weeks to figure out how they differ, because I don't listen to my CD-based system every day. More like twice a week, if that even - recently I've been going once per week, or once every other week. My ultraportable setup has been getting far more usage over the past few months.
> 
> I intend on amping up my listening frequency over the next few weeks, of course - will probably end up doing 3X per week or so.


 

 I'll go even further and say that if the differences between the amps aren't apparent to you within 30 minutes of careful listening to a variety of music types on each amp, then I wouldn't consider the differences to be significant.


----------



## livewire

They are significant.
  One's got tubes and one dont.
   
  That being said, I am looking forward to Asr's impressions.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





livewire said:


> They are significant.
> One's got tubes and one dont.
> 
> That being said, I am looking forward to Asr's impressions.


 

 Certainly hoping for an objective comparison between those two amps - I've been curious for a long time about this since the KGSS seems to do an excellent job all-around, and I just haven't heard the sound of headphones (including stats) change all that much from amp to amp as long as the amps were decent (I tried 323S, 727a, 007ta, KGSS for stats, and numerous amps for dynamic headphones).
   
  According to some experts, the BHSE doesn't have any "tubey" sound characteristics, by the way...


----------



## livewire

I'm no expert, but my take is that there is some tubeyness there.
  The euphonic signature seems somewhat muted, it is a hybrid design after all.
  I find the all transistor amps to be more clinical and true to the source,
  the Blue Hawaii just has a sweeter, less edgy sound to it.
  More musical if you will, without being overtly "lush" as many tube amps are.
  I'm generalizing here, I heard both amps on the same day but no direct A-B trial.


----------



## visualguy

Don't know about the BHSE, but my SRM-007ta certainly doesn't have any tubeyness to its sound at all even though it has tubes (also a hybrid design). In fact, with my SR-009 I have a very hard time distinguishing the sound of my SRM-007ta from that of my KGSS.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I am an engineer and have to rationalize reality through computer models all day long. As such, I have a natural tendency to be rather cartesian. Regardless, our measurement techniques are so primitive compared to the precision of our hearing that I really have no particular mind block against finding a component A to sound better than component B even though they measure just the same or shouldn't possibly sound different if you rationalize it. This is quite difficult for some to digest. This is unfortunately also an open door for snake oils of all sorts and mind gets quickly tricked into thinking something sounds better simply because it costs so much more or looks so good... Oh oh, hear comes the dead horse again .


 
   
  Indeed this topic is well traveled. I'm reminded of when Stereophile tested the Levinson 360S DAC, marked all of the considerable changes and upgrades over the standard 360, and then noted that all of the measurements were identical between the two units. The 360S is clearly an audible improvement over the 360 (not earth shattering, but it's there) and yet the measuring tools are none the wiser.
   
  I actually find the cost + looks = better sound issue to be quite easy to ignore. I think anyone who falls in into that trap simply has no critical listening skills, or is just extremely insecure about their purchasing decisions. There have been many cases where I've had an expensive, great looking component or cable that I've really _wanted _to like, and I just couldn't make myself do it. I'd give the item 3rd, 4th, and 5th attempts to try and overcome my initial disappointment, and then another 100hrs of burn-in, and then try again, but sometimes I'm just not happy with the sound and regardless of great looks or high price, it's gone.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> Don't know about the BHSE, but my SRM-007ta certainly doesn't have any tubeyness to its sound at all even though it has tubes (also a hybrid design). In fact, with my SR-009 I have a very hard time distinguishing the sound of my SRM-007ta from that of my KGSS.


 


 No 009 here. Later.


----------



## milosz

With all this talk about amplifiers, I'd like to chime in here and say that for me, there are other reasons to buy them, besides sound.
   
  Of course, I WANT great sound.  But a good many amplifiers offer great sound. So, what other criteria will I use to select an amp from the many that offer great sound?
   
  Price is a big one. If I save $1,000 on an amplifier, I can buy a whole bunch of CDs or fix my car.  Or pay for my 35 MB/s broadband for a year.
   
  Price has another aspect- what if I can get a really good DAC built in to a headphone amp, there's savings there.
   
  Aside from price, build quality and cosmetics do influence my decision.  I like audio jewelry, as long as it's not overpriced. This combination of factors led to me ended up with a bunch of Audio_Gd stuff.  Excellent sound, good value for money and thick front panels. (Put a 12 mm front panel on it and I will consider buying ANYTHING....)
   
  Some of the Audio_Gd DACs are really excellent, and their headphone amps are great too.  Too bad they don't make anything to drive Stax.
   
  Another thing I like-  BUILDING STUFF.  So I ended up with a Bottlehead Crack, a Bijou, a CK²III, and M³, a Beta 22, and now since I've been bitten by the Stax bug,  I've embarked on building a T2 DIY.    
   
  So, in addition to sound quality- which is all PRETTY D*MN GOOD once you reach a certain level-  there are other factors to consider.
   
  ****


----------



## livewire

Kewl !!!
  Rotz-O-Ruk on the T2.
  Time to be sourcing that obsolete sand.
  And look for discounts on other parts. T2 is one expensive mutha to build.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I've embarked on building a T2 DIY.


 
   
  I wish I was that brave ;o). I have some little experience in board soldering but the risk of injury with the high voltage scares the bejesus out of me.
   
  Looking forward to some impressions with the 009 some day!


----------



## spacemanspliff

I am in the process of purchasing a Lambda normal and a SRD7B on Audiogon. The seller states that the diagram was replaced with 2.5 u Mylar. Any idea of how that changes the sound. He did say it was professionally done.
   
  Also, earpads. Only found at Audiocubes 2 yes? Any other options?
   
  Cheers and delighted to finally get my Lambda Stax fix again. Really regret selling my first pair.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Also, earpads. Only found at Audiocubes 2 yes? Any other options?


 

 There are also a couple of sellers on ebay.  iirc, they are the real thing.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Do I get 404 or 202 earpads? Those are the closest I see on ebay.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Do I get 404 or 202 earpads? Those are the closest I see on ebay.


 

  
  Unfortunately, I am confused about that, too.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Oh well, no hurry. The pads are ok but worn.I got the Lambda Normals and a SRD-7B for $225 shipped. Feeling good about that. Seller was very careful about explaining how Stax work but I am savvy of course.


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Well... for some that may be true... but... more often than not... I think it's that whatever difference in sound anyone can perceive between two phones, or components, or set ups... that difference is typically so subtle, that it simply can't justify the high cost of the "high-priced spread."  And... some persons are just "effusive" about their stuff... especially, when they need to "justify" their decisions.


 
   
  Well... (based on speaker listening, at least), I have to respectfully disagree.  I mean, of course, sometimes differences can and will be small.  But, other times, the differences are as simple as being emotionally connected to the music and the performers... and not being, at all.  To me, *that* is a profound thing--and worth a lot of money (though I much prefer it when I can get it for cheap!).  For example, the big mbl system simply sounds like nothing else.  Period.  If I could afford them, I would have them.  I have heard some *great* gear (I have been very impressed by the Magicos, for example), but the mbls are something special and quite different.  I have far less experience with headphones, the differences may be smaller, but I suspect that the differences are worth it here as well.
  
  BTW, I know that my 701s need something better than my crappy PC analog output but, until I move to a serious headphone rig, they have been just a convenience, nothing more.


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





gu sensei said:


> @KingLocal
> 
> Once the 009s start getting shipped to dealers in the US and Europe, you will start to see the direct comparisons you are seeking. There are a lot of very experienced and knowledgeable Stax folks still waiting for their 009s.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for the reply *Gu*.  I really appreciate your thoughts, having heard the STAX/009s.  I will have to sell my speakers and I am awaiting a promised upgrade from the Smyth Realizer, so I have a few months (at least) before I pull the trigger one way or another.  Hopefully, someone will do the 007/BHSE vs 009/Stax comparison and set both of our minds at ease.


----------



## realmassy

So, I spent some time with my new 2050 system, and I'm happy to report I like what I heard.
  Definitely different from my previous Woo 3 + HD650. I'll listen to a few more albums and then post my impressions...but so far so good!
   
  But, I've got a small issue with the SRM 252: there's a hum coming from it and transferred to the headphones. It's not loud, but noticeable.
  The hum disappears touching the chassis with my hand.
  I've unplugged the source, but the hum is still there...any idea?
   
  Thanks


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> So, I spent some time with my new 2050 system, and I'm happy to report I like what I heard.
> Definitely different from my previous Woo 3 + HD650. I'll listen to a few more albums and then post my impressions...but so far so good!
> 
> But, I've got a small issue with the SRM 252: there's a hum coming from it and transferred to the headphones. It's not loud, but noticeable.
> ...


 

  Sounds like a grounding issue to me. I don't have a solution but I am sure someone like Spritzer does.


----------



## manaox2

Definitely a grounding issue.


----------



## jaycalgary

Using it through a usb to a laptop?


----------



## svyr

manaox2 said:


> Definitely a grounding issue.




either grounding or DC on line out? (that said for the later, can't remember whether there are caps in the signal path for 252)


----------



## realmassy

Thanks for your replies guys.
  I'm actually using USB from a desktop, through an isolator though. The DAC is connected using an Halide Bridge.
  But I tried unplugging everything, and plug the energizer, without source, in a different room; hum still there. I also put it on the carpet to avoid any vibration, but that's not the cause.
  I wrote to the ebay seller, and he replied in a few hours, good service by the way: he suggested to earth the chassis wiring it to some metal, and try a cheater plug.
  I'll try both today and keep you posted.
   
  Talking of the sound, man...so different! I can't believe this cheap system can sound this good.
  I listen only to a few recordings (Handel's Water Music by Savall, Haydn's Cello Concertos by Queyras and Bach's Ascension Oratorio by Suzuki): the thing I've noticed immediately is the 'politeness' of the bass. Tubas for example are so clear, and so the brasses in general.
  Stage seems sightly narrower, but "forward", out of my head. Less separation right/left channel, which is something I don't like on the Beyer for example.
   
  The overall presentation is bright, light, but in a way that is different from the K701 for example. There's no emphasis on the higher frequencies, actually they are smother and less forward than with the HD650. Effortless and natural is the word that comes in mind.


----------



## livewire

Did you buy your system new or used?
  If used, I wonder if the previous user was dumping his problems?
   
  A few other things to try,
  Try using it in another building / house.
  A little more work - buy a 12V adapter plug / cable at an electronics store and hook it to a car battery.
  If you still have noise in both channels without a source, it most likey in the amp.
  Keep in mind the plug's polarity. Stax is in reverse compared to most USA branded wall warts.


----------



## realmassy

The system is used, but bought from a authorized Stax seller, and comes with a year of warranty. So replacing or fixing it should not be a problem...just a pain 
  The adapter is a genuine one, and there's no way, as far as I know, to reverse the polarity with a UK plug.
  The house I'm living is 2 years old, and I doubt the problem could lie there...and unfortunately I have no idea on how to hook the amp to a car battery..and I don't have a car anyway!
  I'll see if I can fix the problem the way the seller told me, or I'll send it back for a refund.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> I am in the process of purchasing a Lambda normal and a SRD7B on Audiogon. The seller states that the diagram was replaced with 2.5 u Mylar. Any idea of how that changes the sound. He did say it was professionally done.


 

  Likely to impact the high frequency response, roll off the highs some I would guess.  Also, the added mass will have some impact on bass response, but I can't quite predict what effect. The extra mass would tend to move the resonance downward, but the thicker diaphragm will be slightly stiffer, moving the low frequency resonance higher.... 
   
  Stax now uses 1.35 µ  mylar for diaphragms; for a long time they used 1.5 µ.  Early Stax have 2 µ diaphragms.  Stax Lambda Signature have the thinnest diaphragms at 1 µ.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> So, I spent some time with my new 2050 system, and I'm happy to report I like what I heard.
> Definitely different from my previous Woo 3 + HD650. I'll listen to a few more albums and then post my impressions...but so far so good!
> 
> But, I've got a small issue with the SRM 252: there's a hum coming from it and transferred to the headphones. It's not loud, but noticeable.
> ...


 
  Is it a HUMMMMMM  or a BUZZZZZZZ?
   
  HUM  is sometimes MAGNETICALLY induced into the amp or Dac, you'll need to physically move them to see if some quieter location can be found.  Hum as in something close to a pure 60 Hz tone (50 Hz in Europe / UK) with maybe 120 hz and 240 Hz harmonics but not much above that.
   
  BUZZZZZ as in not much 60 cycle fundamental but lots of 3000 Hz, 6000 Hz, 12000 Hz and up- this is typically capacitively induced, like a ground loop as mentioned below.
   
  If you touch it and it goes away, this is some kind of grounding issue or a ground loop.  My guess is you have two components Amp / dac  or maybe computer / dac  etc)  that are plugged into different power strips, or possibly into different wall outlets.  Ground (third pin) potential can differ from wall socket to socket, and there is generally some difference in ground potential as seen on the ground (third pin) of various power strips.
   
  Lifting the ground (using a 2-prong to 3-pin AC plug 'cheater') can sometimes eliminate ground loop hum, but can be dangerous-  that third pin is there for a reason, you want the juice to flow to ground through a ground wire and not through the user if ever the transformer primary shorts to the case or something.  It's best to keep third pins in use.
   
  Best practice: plug everything that is physically connected to the headphone amp into the same power strip / extension strip.  You can always run a ground wire from some chassis screw on one component to a chassis screw on another component.  Any thin wire will be fine.  Just take a length of wire and strip both ends. Touch one end to the metal chassis of one component (amp, dac, etc) and touch the other end to the metal chassis of another component in your audio chain, while listening to the 'phones at a decent level but with NO MUSIC- just listening to the background noise.  Note what happens when you connect the two chassis together. Less hum/buzz?  More?  Experiment with this.


----------



## realmassy

Thanks Milosz, much appreciated.
  You're right, it's more like a buzzzz. 
  PC is plugged in one PS Audio Duet, DAC and amp in another Duet. Never had issues with them in the last 2 years (and I tried many sources and amps)
  The weird thing is I tried plugging the amp in a different room 10m far from the dac and pc, and the noise was there.
   
  I'll also try to replace the PSU, I should have a 12V 1.5A somewhere, that should be OK.


----------



## deadlylover

Watch the polarity on the new DC plugpack. It should be center pin negative, I'd double check just in case.


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Watch the polarity on the new DC plugpack. It should be center pin negative, I'd double check just in case.


 

 That's a good point deadlylover.
  Any easy way to check it? There's a picture on the PSU with some + and -, but I'm no expert..sorry
   
  EDIT: forget about it: just seen how to reverse the polarity in the pin!


----------



## svyr

deadlylover said:


> Watch the polarity on the new DC plugpack. It should be center pin negative, I'd double check just in case.




 if he got the polarity wrong it wouldn't buzz it wouldn't turn on (i tried that at some point by accident lol)

edit: ops I should learn to read  .... nevermind.


----------



## treal512

Hey folks. I've been out of the game for a little while (4 months) and was wondering how I could improve my current setup if I had some extra money to put into it. As it stands now, it is...
   
  A PC with 320/FLAC connected via NuForce Impulse USB cable to > a Audinst HUD-MX1 connected via Silver Sonic BL-1 RCAs to > a Yaqin SD-CD3 (w/ Sylvania 6SN7GT VT-231 tubes) connected via Silver Sonic BL-1 RCAs to > a STAX SRM-313 with IeGO's L70530 power cable to > STAX SR-303 earphones
   
  (Source > DAC > Amp > Phones)
   
  What do you think? I do enjoy it the way it is, but have some extra money and had my eye on stepping up the DAC (Edit: or maybe the earphones to SR-404) to something a little better if it's worthwhile. I'm open to all suggestions/input for improvement.


----------



## realmassy

I tried a few tricks (cheater plug, ground isolator between the amp and the dac, wire the chassis to the rack), but the buzz is still there.
  It's on the left channel only by the way. If I wire the chassis to the rack I can stop the hum touching the bold in the rack with my hand.
   
  I tried again in a different room, with no result.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Likely to impact the high frequency response, roll off the highs some I would guess.  Also, the added mass will have some impact on bass response, but I can't quite predict what effect. The extra mass would tend to move the resonance downward, but the thicker diaphragm will be slightly stiffer, moving the low frequency resonance higher....
> 
> Stax now uses 1.35 µ  mylar for diaphragms; for a long time they used 1.5 µ.  Early Stax have 2 µ diaphragms.  Stax Lambda Signature have the thinnest diaphragms at 1 µ.


 

 I thought that too. Basically, more bass and less speed and extension. A muddy stax? lol
   
  We'll see. I can't complain for the price. Still going to be a great headphone for $100 lol.


----------



## hjt1130

Anyone know about the stax 717 XLR plug polarity? Are they fit to US standard?


----------



## svyr

realmassy said:


> I tried a few tricks (cheater plug, ground isolator between the amp and the dac, wire the chassis to the rack), but the buzz is still there.
> It's on the left channel only by the way. If I wire the chassis to the rack I can stop the hum touching the bold in the rack with my hand.
> 
> I tried again in a different room, with no result.




have you tried a different source (hp out with 3.5mm to 2rca even)?


----------



## realmassy

I tried even with no source.
   
  One more thing I've noticed, the hum gets louder and louder.
  I've wired the chassis to the steel structure of my sofa, so I've been able to listen touching the structure.
  Left channel is now, after a few hours, very noisy, the right on the other hand is dead silent.
   
  I'm now thinking the problem is in the headphones: I can 't hear any noise if I take them off and put my ears close to the amp.
  Anyway, I think I'll send the system back to the seller, and he will have a look at it.
   
  Too bad, as I really like it so far.


----------



## livewire

Bummer!
  Sounds like a return is in order.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> I thought that too. Basically, more bass and less speed and extension. A muddy stax? lol
> 
> We'll see. I can't complain for the price. Still going to be a great headphone for $100 lol.


 
  Muddy, well probably not.  I would say a tad darker, or a little warmer. Bass might even be a little tighter, less stretch to the diaphragm.
   
  A little lower efficiency too.  Maybe a dB or two less SPL per volt.
   
  Might actually be an interesting sound signature, the only Stax in the world that has it, too!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> I tried even with no source.
> 
> One more thing I've noticed, the hum gets louder and louder.
> I've wired the chassis to the steel structure of my sofa, so I've been able to listen touching the structure.
> ...


 

 Not likely to be the headphones. Sounds like the amp to me.
   
  Do you hear the hum even with NO SOURCE plugged in to the amp?  I.E., no input cable plugged in to the amp, you'd just be listening to the amp's rendition of "silence" since it has no signal going into it.  If you hear a hum in the headphones with NO input signal cable plugged into the amp, the problem is in the amp or it's power supply.


----------



## K3cT

I can't remember precisely what is bundled with the 2050 system but it must be the one that comes with a wallwart am I correct? Try using some other wallwart first. Make sure the voltage and polarity match. Digikey or Jameco should have a very complete inventory of what you need.


----------



## realmassy

Thanks guys.
  The seller is going to collect the system and send it to Stax: he even offered a refund but I want to keep it and get fixed.
  I'll keep you posted!
  Now back to iPod and ER4S...that's not quite the same


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





hjt1130 said:


> Anyone know about the stax 717 XLR plug polarity? Are they fit to US standard?


 

 afair  SRM-717 had 1-ground, 2-cold and 3-hot, all new ampifiers have standard polarity 1-ground, 2-hot, 3-cold.
  There should be picture on the rear panel describing the pins.


----------



## Leonardo Drummond

DaveBSC, KingLocal and arnaud, sorry about the delay! I'm travelling now and have little time to go on the internet!
   
  Very interesting discussion! I agree with most of what's been said. The experience I had with tube rolling was rather revealing in that sense. I wasn't enjoying my K1000s anymore and thought about getting some new tubes for my Little Dot MKVI. When I got them running for the first time, I though that it was a large difference and was amazed with the results. In fact, for a few weeks, it got more head time than the O2s. However, when I got the old tubes back in so that I could AxB them, I was stunned to find out that the difference was not nearly as big as I was expecting. They were a bit less refined and had the mids pushed forward. That was it. But the "subjective" improvement was immense!
   
  However, I have to say that I'm rather skeptical about some other things. Well, maybe not exactly skeptical, but, as (I think) visualguy, I find it hard to justify investing on something that I have to make an effort to find a difference or that I have to AxB to find them. If I don't find immediate differences, than to me it's usually not worth it. But then I guess this has more to do with my point of diminishing returns!


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





leonardo drummond said:


> DaveBSC, KingLocal and arnaud, sorry about the delay! I'm travelling now and have little time to go on the internet!
> 
> Very interesting discussion! I agree with most of what's been said. The experience I had with tube rolling was rather revealing in that sense. I wasn't enjoying my K1000s anymore and thought about getting some new tubes for my Little Dot MKVI. When I got them running for the first time, I though that it was a large difference and was amazed with the results. In fact, for a few weeks, it got more head time than the O2s. However, when I got the old tubes back in so that I could AxB them, I was stunned to find out that the difference was not nearly as big as I was expecting. They were a bit less refined and had the mids pushed forward. That was it. But the "subjective" improvement was immense!
> 
> However, I have to say that I'm rather skeptical about some other things. Well, maybe not exactly skeptical, but, as (I think) visualguy, I find it hard to justify investing on something that I have to make an effort to find a difference or that I have to AxB to find them. If I don't find immediate differences, than to me it's usually not worth it. But then I guess this has more to do with my point of diminishing returns!


 
   
  I blew an amp in one of my active PMC AML1s (weird b/c the amps and Xovers are by Bryston which have the rep for NEVER breaking...) and I substituted a much less ambitious (but good; my excellent PS Audio DAC w/ Bridge stayed in place) 2nd system for my main rig.  I was amazed at how close it was in quality... did I really need $20k in gear if the differences were so small?  But then when I got my AML1 back I was even *more* surprised at how much more I *enjoyed* listening to music again... in fact, I found I had fallen into the habit of just not listening much to my 2nd system except for background music.  That is what I mean by small yet profound differences.  
   
  As much as I sympathize with *Leonardo*, that searching for differences seems self-defeating, it also points out how value can sometimes only be measured over time.  (Which is not to say that the differences between my main and 2nd systems were hard to discern--it was *immediately* apparent which was the superior system--but rather they *importance* of these differences only became clear over time.)
  
  BTW, outside of component changes, in my experience, I have found the single biggest difference in sound quality to be found in power cords, one of the most aggressively attacked upgrades, not only from the you-can't-hear-the-difference crowd, but also from a number of electronics designers with whom I have spoken (vanity might have something to do with the latter: an amp designer I knew once revealingly said to me that saying a power cord/conditioner could improve his amps was a great insult because it was like saying he did not know how to design a proper power supply... I wanted to respond that that might well be the case and, apparently, he was not alone in this failing, but discretion being the better part of valor and all that...).


----------



## Michgelsen

It's weird that it's louder on one of the channels. Otherwise, I have encountered this hum problem with different Stax amps and headphones, and with my HE60 as well: a faint hum that would go away when I touched the chassis. I solved it easily by connecting the chassis to the radiator pipes with some wire. Hum gone! I should add that my system is not grounded via the electrical outlets. Now it's only grounded via the radiator, which is not the proper way to do it, as any electrician can tell you. However, the hum is gone.
   
   
  Quote:


realmassy said:


> I tried even with no source.
> 
> One more thing I've noticed, the hum gets louder and louder.
> I've wired the chassis to the steel structure of my sofa, so I've been able to listen touching the structure.
> ...


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> It's weird that it's louder on one of the channels. Otherwise, I have encountered this hum problem with different Stax amps and headphones, and with my HE60 as well: a faint hum that would go away when I touched the chassis. I solved it easily by connecting the chassis to the radiator pipes with some wire. Hum gone! I should add that my system is not grounded via the electrical outlets. Now it's only grounded via the radiator, which is not the proper way to do it, as any electrician can tell you. However, the hum is gone.


 
  Michgelsen, you gave me the right idea!
  I wired the chassis to the radiator, and the hum is gone!
  Now, I'll get the amp fixed anyway (my wife is not happy about a green wire across the room) but at least I can listen during this weekend.
  Right now listening to Dvorak Dumky Trio (Beaux Arts Trio)
  Thanks!


----------



## Michgelsen

That's great to hear.
  I don't know whether the amp can be fixed. Perhaps this problem is something that's part of its design. I suspect a lot of electrical equipment with metal enclosures suffers from this problem, but in this case an audible problem arises because the electrostatic headphones are so sensitive to this. I sometimes feel a very light tickling or vibrating in my fingertips when I move them over a metal enclosure of an apparatus. This does not happen when it's disconnected from the mains. I suspect a small voltage is applied to the enclosure when plugged in, in which case the tickling is caused by tiny electric shocks. Unfortunately I don't have enough knowledge to be sure, so this is speculation.


----------



## realmassy

Well, it makes sense to let them have a look anyway, and if it can't be fixed I'll try to ground the chassis properly to the rack. I tried that before but it didn't work.
Thing is...I can see myself upgrading the amp anyway in the future 

But I'm amazed by the quality of this system: I tried many dynamic headphones and amp, I used to own a full balanced system with some HE5-LE... and it did sound very very well, but I was almost at the top for a dynamic rig. I can't believe the 2050 is the entry level!!

Its sound is probably technical inferior to that setup, less detail, less focus in instruments, but it has something special anyway...price aside!


----------



## Michgelsen

Maybe connecting the chassis to the rack didn't work because it's not a real ground. The heating system is, at least it is in my house. A new amp may show the same symptoms: my SRM-T1 and SRM-717 both did, though for some strange reason my 717 now doesn't hum anymore, even though it's no longer connected to the radiator...


----------



## nick n

Did a bit of searching couldn't locate any info and am wondering whether the Koss /e.9 energizer unit can be modded to accept Stax headphones. If so what if any benefit would one see.  I currently use an SRD-6 box with SR-5 's and my recently acquired SR-50 electrets.
   
   It's not really a priority project but since it came my way why not ask. 
  If not I may simply pass it along to someone who needs one for dirt cheap.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





nick n said:


> Did a bit of searching couldn't locate any info and am wondering whether the Koss /e.9 energizer unit can be modded to accept Stax headphones. If so what if any benefit would one see.  I currently use an SRD-6 box with SR-5 's and my recently acquired SR-50 electrets.
> 
> It's not really a priority project but since it came my way why not ask.
> If not I may simply pass it along to someone who needs one for dirt cheap.






   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/255272/will-stax-low-bias-phones-run-off-the-koss-e9-energizer-transformer
   
  In short: not much point in it, bias is higher as well.


----------



## nick n

Thanks exactly what i needed to know. It's a skipper. I'll  pass it along for dirt
  cheap to what little market there actually may be for it.


----------



## Electrostax

A bit confused these days as I have finally gotten my long awaited sr507 / srm323s system and not completely satisfied with the sound...  yet...
  The dealer let me have the srs4170 system at home the last two months while I waited for delivery of my order, and I absolutely loved the sound of that rig to bits! Full and extended bass, plenty detail and hf "space", made me always want to turn the volume up... pure listening joy hours on end. sound never got tiring in any way.
  From all I have read the 507 should be an (if very slight) improvement over the 407, and the srm323s being heralded by some as the best amp currently in the stax lineup should be at least as good as the srm006ts....
  Unfortunately I have yet to fall in love with the sound of this new system. It has now played about 100 hours and I rembered the srs 4170 system improving quite a bit in its first 60-80 hours, going from "slightly rough edged" to silky smooth and super detailed. No such change yet on the 507 kit..  It still sounds "rough edged" rather often want to turn down the volume due to a sound that is not pleasing to the ear (not especially loud, but tiring and sort of slightly nasal with "hollow" mids and if anything less bass than the 4170system.... Sounds cheaper and less "high end"
  It might that the tubed amp made the difference, but as things are now the 407/006ts had better, richer and fuller bass extention, more natural mids, and WAY more involving and natural sound as in "you feel you are actually there".
  Does anyone have experience with burn-in of the srm323s? does it change much? and in what way?
  Hope this gets better, already listening less hours a day than with the 4170 as it seems the music has lost its "soul".......
  .....    
  and the stitching of the leather pads hurts the back of my ear after an hour or so...


----------



## MrGreen

Electrostats won't exhibit a burn in period because of the way the force is applied. Any changes will happen in seconds.


----------



## jaycalgary

I had some pairs that were not being used in a long time and they sure sound weird for the first while being used. Also dust covers when new are pretty tight but they loosen up after a while.


----------



## The Monkey

Is it possible to have one thread free from burn-in posts?


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Michgelsen, you gave me the right idea!
> I wired the chassis to the radiator, and the hum is gone!
> Now, I'll get the amp fixed anyway (my wife is not happy about a green wire across the room) but at least I can listen during this weekend.
> Right now listening to Dvorak Dumky Trio (Beaux Arts Trio)
> Thanks!


 
  Updates on my hum issues...Something weird...There is no noise if I wire the chassis BEFORE switching the amp on there is no noise. That doesn't work if I do it AFTER the amp being switched on...that doesn't make sense at all


----------



## svyr

realmassy said:


> Updates on my hum issues...Something weird...There is no noise if I wire the chassis BEFORE switching the amp on there is no noise. That doesn't work if I do it AFTER the amp being switched on...that doesn't make sense at all




i thought you sent it back to the seller :rolleyes: ?


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





svyr said:


> i thought you sent it back to the seller
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Not yet, the Stax service guy is on holiday, he'll be back next Tuesday. In the meantime I'm still using it.


----------



## jaycalgary

Wonder if anyone can give me an idea what might be wrong with my rig? I am guessing it is the Srm-1/ Mk-2 that needs updating. I have had O2 Mk1's for over a week now but just  getting over an ear infection. It seems to me there the bass is more powerful on the right channel.  The only thing I did with the Srm-1 / Mk-2 is I adjusted the bias. I will get new caps one of these days but it is still stock. I have it around a volt but now I get a slight noise when I plug the earphones in. Still seems more deep bass on the right side. Anyone know the most likely reason?


----------



## milosz

Since you said you just got over an ear problem, maybe let some other listener hear the setup before you decide it's broken and break out your soldering iron. Just a thought.
   
  I'm glad your ear problem has gotten better.  I know how dreadful such maladies can be.  I've had an eye problem for a long time- I just can't see getting a job.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Wonder if anyone can give me an idea what might be wrong with my rig? I am guessing it is the Srm-1/ Mk-2 that needs updating. I have had O2 Mk1's for over a week now but just  getting over an ear infection. It seems to me there the bass is more powerful on the right channel.  The only thing I did with the Srm-1 / Mk-2 is I adjusted the bias. I will get new caps one of these days but it is still stock. I have it around a volt but now I get a slight noise when I plug the earphones in. Still seems more deep bass on the right side. Anyone know the most likely reason?


 
   
  Check the earpad orientation for both the cups, when one of them don't seal properly, you get mad bass on that side ^^. Sometimes I wear them wrong on purpose =P.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Wonder if anyone can give me an idea what might be wrong with my rig? I am guessing it is the Srm-1/ Mk-2 that needs updating. I have had O2 Mk1's for over a week now but just  getting over an ear infection. It seems to me there the bass is more powerful on the right channel.  The only thing I did with the Srm-1 / Mk-2 is I adjusted the bias. I will get new caps one of these days but it is still stock. I have it around a volt but now I get a slight noise when I plug the earphones in. Still seems more deep bass on the right side. Anyone know the most likely reason?


 


  It is definitely your amp that needs updating.  I have the Srm-1/Mk-2 also, but is only useful for lower end Stax phones.  I am currently using a SRM T1 which is still way underpowered, especially for the Baby Orpheus I have coming in.
  You should be looking for a SRM 727A ($1600+) at the very least for your O2s, and possibly the KGSS ($1500+) or BHSE ($4500+) to get the best out of your O2's


----------



## jaycalgary

Yes the amp will be upgraded but one step at a time. Next step is a W4S dac2 I will have tomorrow.


----------



## Ra97oR

Finally got around to get some SR-507 earpads for my 404Sig, it much improved fit and comfort already worth the hassle, not to say the improved sound. Makes me a happy man~


----------



## jaycalgary

The reason I had more bass on one side was the sound card I was using Musiland O2 and I have short diy silver rca cables that came with the amp. The wire broke inside from wear and tear. There was 1 wire ground and 2 to the positive in the monster cable connector. The Musiland 02 had a whole lot of bass authority with the O2's. It may have been boomy but my new W4S Dac2 does not seem to have nearly as much. There was a big bass contrast between using the O2's and diy 407/sigmas. Now it is not as much of a difference. I do have new life for the sigma project though because of the new sound quality. Before when I added enough mineral in the diy sigmas to get decent bass the midrange would sound veiled and just bad. Now with the much better W4S Dac2 I can add more mineral wool and have ok bass and midrange.


----------



## Sharklordy

Quote: 





charliex said:


> It is definitely your amp that needs updating.  I have the Srm-1/Mk-2 also, but is only useful for lower end Stax phones.  I am currently using a SRM T1 which is still way underpowered, especially for the Baby Orpheus I have coming in.
> You should be looking for a SRM 727A ($1600+) at the very least for your O2s, and possibly the KGSS ($1500+) or BHSE ($4500+) to get the best out of your O2's


 

 Sadly the KGSS has been discontinued


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





sharklordy said:


> Sadly the KGSS has been discontinued


 
   
  ???
   
  It's still available for order:


----------



## milosz

Here is a tip for Stax Lambda owners.  Probably applies to Sigmas, too.
   
  When replacing the earpads....
   
  After you peel off the old earpads, you will be left with adhesive stuck on the face of the headphone'r outer ring, the area where you will mount your new earpads.  I've found that using a solvent available at most hardware stores / Home Depot / Lowe's  etc works really well for this.  It's called "Goof Off" and is not terribly expensive.  I use a rag made damp with some "Goof Off'  to rub away the old adhesive.  I think you'd want to avoid getting any of this solvent on the drivers themselves, which is why I just " apply it sparingly to the rag so it doesn't drip off the rag and into the headphone where it might do something bad to the driver's dust cover or diaphragm.


----------



## crumpler

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> ???
> 
> It's still available for order:


 


  I did the exact same thing.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Here is a tip for Stax Lambda owners.  Probably applies to Sigmas, too.
> 
> When replacing the earpads....
> 
> After you peel off the old earpads, you will be left with adhesive stuck on the face of the headphone'r outer ring, the area where you will mount your new earpads.  I've found that using a solvent available at most hardware stores / Home Depot / Lowe's  etc works really well for this.  It's called "Goof Off" and is not terribly expensive.  I use a rag made damp with some "Goof Off'  to rub away the old adhesive.  I think you'd want to avoid getting any of this solvent on the drivers themselves, which is why I just " apply it sparingly to the rag so it doesn't drip off the rag and into the headphone where it might do something bad to the driver's dust cover or diaphragm.


 
   
  I've found that the alcohol wipes you get at supermarkets do reasonable job of removing the goo when replacing the earpads (also good for the removing sticky residue left from adhesive labels and the like).


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I've found that the alcohol wipes you get at supermarkets do reasonable job of removing the goo when replacing the earpads (also good for the removing sticky residue left from adhesive labels and the like).


 

 Try the Goof Off, it makes the job much easier. I tried isopropyl, ethyl and methyl alcohols but Goof Off worked much better.


----------



## jaycalgary

That's basically varsol.


----------



## Ikarios

I once used Ronsonol (lighter fluid, for Zippos and stuff) to clean off left-over sticker adhesive residue that was on the outside of a shot glass and had been there for months. It's probably cheaper than Goof-Off too. Regular lighter fluid (like for a grill) may also work, I've never tried it.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> BTW, outside of component changes, in my experience, I have found the single biggest difference in sound quality to be found in power cords, one of the most aggressively attacked upgrades, not only from the you-can't-hear-the-difference crowd, but also from a number of electronics designers with whom I have spoken (vanity might have something to do with the latter: an amp designer I knew once revealingly said to me that saying a power cord/conditioner could improve his amps was a great insult because it was like saying he did not know how to design a proper power supply... I wanted to respond that that might well be the case and, apparently, he was not alone in this failing, but discretion being the better part of valor and all that...).


 

 Power cords can indeed make incredible differences, despite the usual arguments of "how can the last few feet of power wire possibly make any difference" and "a properly designed power supply can deal with any AC noise problem". I was quite surprised at how huge the differences were between the cords I tried between the wall and my (now sold) PS Power Plant Premier. The PS is an AC regenerator, and the cord connecting it to the wall in theory shouldn't matter, but it does, BIG TIME.
   
  Certain power supplies such as the switching units in ICEpower amps seem to ignore power cords, and some of the very best components with price tags well into 5 figures also seem to not need help with AC. For a typical component with a linear supply though, conditioning and cords matter.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> ???
> 
> It's still available for order:


 


  IIRC Justin said the last of his KGSS units had recently been sold. Spritzer did mention talks about a commercial KGSSHV, but Headamp was not confirmed as the manufacturer. In any case, I've used the SRM-1 with the O2 and that combination does work. Of course a superior amp would be an improvement, but it's not an absolute requirement. The SRM-1 has 370V on tap which is more than any of the Stax tube amps.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Power cords can indeed make incredible differences, despite the usual arguments of "how can the last few feet of power wire possibly make any difference" and "a properly designed power supply can deal with any AC noise problem". I was quite surprised at how huge the differences were between the cords I tried between the wall and my (now sold) PS Power Plant Premier. The PS is an AC regenerator, and the cord connecting it to the wall in theory shouldn't matter, but it does, BIG TIME.
> 
> Certain power supplies such as the switching units in ICEpower amps seem to ignore power cords, and some of the very best components with price tags well into 5 figures also seem to not need help with AC. For a typical component with a linear supply though, conditioning and cords matter.


 

 You will get no disagreement from me about the value of good power cords.


----------



## Sharklordy

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> ???
> 
> It's still available for order:


 

 I wanted to order one but Justin said he has sold out and discontinued the KGSS.


----------



## justin w.

i'll be removing that, it is sold out.


----------



## wink

Does that mean you'll replace it with the KGSSHV..???


----------



## realmassy

Pardon my stupid question, but what's the difference between the KGSSHV and the KGSS?


----------



## Amarphael

HV is for High Voltage, Not that the standard KGSS is particularly low on voltage, just that the HV is +100V on the rails, which makes it a 900V RMS amp, in comparison to the 700V KGSS or the 450V Stax 717/727 i.e. Hope i'm not mistaken on the RMS part.


----------



## jaycalgary

"700V KGSS or the 450V Stax 717/727"  Isn't it 1400V for the KGSS?
   
  I really hope he comes out with a KGSSHV is the near future because it will probably be the best version. I would hope it would be the sound quality of the BHSE but the convenience of Solid State.


----------



## realmassy

Thanks for the reply.
Is it a DIY project or a commercial product?


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> "700V KGSS or the 450V Stax 717/727"  Isn't it 1400V for the KGSS?
> 
> I really hope he comes out with a KGSSHV is the near future because it will probably be the best version. I would hope it would be the sound quality of the BHSE but the convenience of Solid State.


 

 Right now, the BHSE is enough to handle!  There would actually be minimal parts cost difference between a KGSSHV and a BHSE.  A quad of EL34 tubes is 90% of the difference.  Going to a single-box unit would save a lot, but it would on the BH too.  So right now my focus is on the BHSE.


----------



## KingLocal

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Power cords can indeed make incredible differences, despite the usual arguments of "how can the last few feet of power wire possibly make any difference" and "a properly designed power supply can deal with any AC noise problem". I was quite surprised at how huge the differences were between the cords I tried between the wall and my (now sold) PS Power Plant Premier. The PS is an AC regenerator, and the cord connecting it to the wall in theory shouldn't matter, but it does, BIG TIME.
> 
> Certain power supplies such as the switching units in ICEpower amps seem to ignore power cords, and some of the very best components with price tags well into 5 figures also seem to not need help with AC. For a typical component with a linear supply though, conditioning and cords matter.


 
   
  I agree with you Dave... except that I found that PCs actually made a big difference with my (now sold) EMM Labs DCC2 Pre/Dac and CDSD transport, which both had switching power supplies.  Amazingly, although I could quickly and easily tell the difference between after-mkt. PCs, after spending some big $$$ on tweeks, I ended up liking the stock Kimber-sourced PCs the best (though they were not the best in every aspect of performance--being less smooth and "musical" than, say, top-of-the-line Shunyatas).  
   
  Anyway, this is just to say that contrary to manufacturer's claims (again!), even switching power supplies can still be affected from up-stream power.  I am not saying that this is the case for the ICE Amps, as I have never had any of these in my own system, but my EMM Labs experience has led me to suspect that linear power supplies are not the only ones that benefit from good power.  Also, I have had some very, very expensive gear pass through my system (though nothing at 5 figures, unless you count transport-DACs as one component), and I have never heard anything that was unaffected by changes to the PC (... though not always for the better).
  
  When I (finally!) get a high-end headphone rig, power will be the FIRST issue I address.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Pardon my stupid question, but what's the difference between the KGSSHV and the KGSS?


 

 Taken from KG's post elsewhere:
   
  "Its the high voltage version of the kgss with higher voltage pnp transistors, a cascode current source for the 3rd stage, the lsk389 part (or singles) and much higher voltage output transistors. The result is something that runs on +/-500 volt power supplies, and is as close as i know how to do to the T2. (except fully solid state, and easy to build) The transistors that go on the heatsinks are already insulated, which makes that part easy. Not a lot more money than an exstata, and much better sound."
   
  The KGSSHV from what I've seen is the ultimate solid state electrostatic headphone amp. It's the Highlander, there can be only one. There are at least one or two other SS designs floating around that may be competitive with the original KGSS, but I think the HV will likely be king solid state for some time. The BHSE has competition, but Ray told me he isn't doing a solid state electrostat amp, and obviously Woo isn't going to do one. Unfortunately those looking to just go buy a HV are out of luck. Eventually somebody might produce one, but for now you will need to find a builder.
   
  There are advantages to DIY anyway, you have your pick of most of the parts and can go much higher in quality than the typical OEM will. You can find the very best silver/gold/teflon caps, wiring and such in production components, but they'll have $20 grand price tags.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





kinglocal said:


> When I (finally!) get a high-end headphone rig, power will be the FIRST issue I address.


 
   
  With Stax headphones and amps good power seems to be especially critical. The only time I've ever been bored when listening to my O2 Mk1 is when I had my amp and DAC which had just arrived in the mail hooked up with stock cords into a cheap power strip just to make sure they were working properly. When reviewers talk about how their systems become flat, or lifeless, or a veil over the sound after removing some high quality power component, that's what I experienced. With the right recording and good power, the O2 can fool me into thinking I'm sitting in the recording studio, and the instruments are live. They disappear as the sound source like a good mini-monitor. Take the good power away, and the sound is two dimensional headphone boredom, like a mediocre dynamic.


----------



## K3cT

It's such a shame to see the KGSS being discontinued as it offers a commercial energizer that is far better than most of STAX's offerings but priced within a reasonable limit. I hope HeadAmp will offer an alternative with the same mindset in the future.


----------



## Sharklordy

So now should I buy the BHSE+O2 (8k) or 727A+009 (6k)?


----------



## granoj

Hi all!
   
  Just signed in to Head-fi. I`ve been looking for my first electrostatic system and I`ve been offered a set of 303 phones and SRM-310 amp. What do you guys think of the SRM-310? Can`t find basically no comments about the amp? The seller is asking 530€ (752 USD). Condition is very good including the original boxes, what do you think? I have read that proper amplification is crucial for Staxes. So I was thinking if I should first get a quality amp and then upgrade to better headphones if necessary? There is also a set of SRD-7SB and Stax SR-X MarkIII for sale for a lot less money. I could drive the SR-X with 100W class D Hypex amp. My budget is around 800€ (1134 USD), What do you think?
   
  Any advice would be greatly appreciated and if you are willing to part from your Stax gear do let me know
   
  -Jarno


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sharklordy said:


> So now should I buy the BHSE+O2 (8k) or 727A+009 (6k)?


 

 We've had this question already, and the consensus was to go with the 009. You can't just get a BHSE - the wait is _considerable_, so you'd need to tack on another $900 or so for a SRM-323S while you wait. With the 009 you have a lot more choices, as the amping requirements don't seem to be nearly as strict. The same 323S would do the job, or you could try the 727, 007tII, or a GES.


----------



## Ikarios

For those of you with Lambda Pros, does anyone have ideas on how the driver protection works? I removed the deteriorating foam inside the pads but I'm not sure how well the driver is protected from hair, dust, and other junk. There's the mesh screen which works against larger things but for smaller stuff, I'm not sure. Is the metal plate I see the stator, or is it some sort of protecting plate?
   
  Pictures for reference:
  http://imageshack.us/g/19/imag0096za.jpg/


----------



## matianzi

I am wondering to know the difference between the GES and BHSE and which is more suitable for SR-507. Is 507 really need an 1.5K AMP like GES or SRM-600LTD? Or BHSE is really good enough for SR-507? Thank you!


----------



## livewire

Dont have the answer for that, but I think that the BHSE would be well suited for the SR-507.
  It is the best production electrostatic amp out there, bar none.


----------



## eggontoast

Quote: 





ikarios said:


> For those of you with Lambda Pros, does anyone have ideas on how the driver protection works? I removed the deteriorating foam inside the pads but I'm not sure how well the driver is protected from hair, dust, and other junk. There's the mesh screen which works against larger things but for smaller stuff, I'm not sure. Is the metal plate I see the stator, or is it some sort of protecting plate?


 

 The mesh is a protecting plate, behind that is the PVC cover which encases the front and rear of the driver from dust and hair.


----------



## eggontoast

I am currently running a pair of SR404 Signatures from an SRM-3 and overall I am very happy with the setup but I have a niggle feeling that the SRM-3 is letting the side down. Would I hear some vast improvements in upgrading the energizer if so any recommendations on which is a good match for the SR-404's.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





matianzi said:


> I am wondering to know the difference between the GES and BHSE and which is more suitable for SR-507. Is 507 really need an 1.5K AMP like GES or SRM-600LTD? Or BHSE is really good enough for SR-507? Thank you!


 

 Er.. the BHSE is a $5,000 flagship amp, and there's a year long plus wait on it. It sounds like you're thinking it's more affordable than the GES or SRM-600? The $1248.75 is only a down payment, you need to make four of those. You don't need all that much to drive the SR-507 well. The $900 SRM-323S will work just fine, as will the $1400 SRM-006TS. You only need the big guns on the SR-007 and to a lesser extent the 009.


----------



## Jodet

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Er.. the BHSE is a $5,000 flagship amp, and there's a year long plus wait on it. It sounds like you're thinking it's more affordable than the GES or SRM-600? The $1248.75 is only a down payment, you need to make four of those. You don't need all that much to drive the SR-507 well. The $900 SRM-323S will work just fine, as will the $1400 SRM-006TS. You only need the big guns on the SR-007 and to a lesser extent the 009.


 



 I'm running my SR-507's with a 323S and am very happy with the combination.   I could spend twice as much on an amp.  Then twice as much again.   It never ends.  
   
  I think the 323S and SR-507 combination is a good place to stop.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> and to a lesser extent the 009.


 

 That's only just speculation at this point, isn't it?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> That's only just speculation at this point, isn't it?


 

 Several people have indicated that the 009 is more sensitive than the O2. I haven't heard the two together myself so I can't confirm, but it at least would seem that the 009 isn't starving for more voltage when feed by something like the SRM-007Tii.


----------



## n3rdling

Sensitivity is only part of the equation


----------



## Amarphael

...There's also the issue of providing the cleanest signal path to show what they're capable of.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





eggontoast said:


> I am currently running a pair of SR404 Signatures from an SRM-3 and overall I am very happy with the setup but I have a niggle feeling that the SRM-3 is letting the side down. Would I hear some vast improvements in upgrading the energizer if so any recommendations on which is a good match for the SR-404's.


 


 I have a 404 and  had 2 SRM3's one of which I sold for an older SRM1Mk2. 
   
  The problem with the  SRM 3 and most of Stax amps of that period is that it has a lower maximum  voltage swing (300 volts) than the older SRM1 (370) and I believe this results in a lack of dynamics (i.e. drive, bounce, prat) with the SRM 3. At that time,  Stax lowered the voltage swing on many of its amps, but has more recently moved it up again on its transistor amps.  This the new SRM3S runs 400, the 717 and newer 727II run 450 volts.
   
  You might want to try the SRM1Mk2 to see if this gives you a  better sound.  Most come with a high and low bias socket but the last model, the PP, had 2 high bias sockets.  You could still run 2 404's from a single socket but would need an adapter.  I picked up my  current 2 SRM1 MkII's for under $400 each a year or  2 back.    Many people recommend a servicing, especially to replace the electrolytic capacitors. My amps seemed fine in spite of their advancing age, not quite up to the 717, but not obviously deficient.
   
  I should also say that you could try using a better grade power cord on the SRM3.  That helped mine quite a bit.  I also try to have the Stax amps plugged directly into the wall rather than go through a power strip. 
   
  The 404, unlike the 007, is sufficiently efficient that it does not demand a higher power amp.  Still, I think you will find that it is helped by the etxra voltage swing. The mega amps such as the BHSE provide even more.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


eggontoast said:


> The mesh is a protecting plate, behind that is the PVC cover which encases the front and rear of the driver from dust and hair.


 
   
  Can anyone confirm this?  Is the foam that's inside the earpad basically not necessary--and just redundant protection?


----------



## matianzi

Well, that is only one quarter of the whole price...


----------



## matianzi

And it seems like that GES is a little wired because the best Lambda SR-507 does not need that expensive while 007 users prefer something better like KGSS.


----------



## K3cT

I currently have the SR-202 and SRM-1/MK2 in my possession and I love every minute of it. Granted, it's pretty much a mid-to-low tier STAX but there are certain things that you cannot get in other types of transducers which I dare say, even missing in the LCD2/Beta22 combination. I seem to have a niggling comfort issue as the earpad is a little too small for my earlobes but the light weight is a welcome change from the Audez'e LCD2. 
   
  Now let's see if I can borrow an SRD-7 which I want to connect to the speaker taps of my Beta22. I wonder whether it will be an improvement from the SRM-1/MK2?


----------



## milosz

I've got Lambda Pro Signatures, Lambda Pro, SR-007's as well as Beyer ET-1000's and Koss ESP-950's with Stax cables on them.  I've also got LCD-2's, and you are right- the LCD-2's really have it going on but the Lambda Pro Signature and especially the SR-007 do offer something that the LCD-2's don't have, but also the LCD-2's offer things the Stax don't.  I really got to have them ALL  LOL
   
  The ESP-950's are nice on my Stax SRM-T1 and SRM-1/MK II but I don't know that they really give me anything that the Stax don't.  Well a little more bass "slam" than the Lambda Signatures, and really they are quite good of themselves. But for me they are a bit redundant considering the Stax 'phones I have.  But I had to try them.
   
  My Beyer ET-1000's, something's wrong with them.  A bad driver I suspect. Right channel starts out sounding OK but then after about 1 minute level starts to drop eventually being 15 dB or so below left channel.  Cable is OK (new cable, Stax 6-pin cable) and bias voltage looks OK with my DVM.  I'm afraid it is the driver.  Too bad, too; aside from this serious problem, they sound pretty good.  Different from Stax.
   
  My SR-007's don't sound very good on the T2  [EGAD!  correction: I meant the* T1* ], and on the SRM-1/MK II they sound good but give me the impression that they could sound MUCH better.... so I am currently building a DIY T2.  Parts I've ordered are starting to come in, but this is going to take a long while, maybe a year.  A complex build.


----------



## padam

I guess you meant the SR007s don't sound good on the T1  And yes, I feel it is a bit underpowered even on an SRM-717 which itself is noticeably better than the SRM-1/Mk2 but the O2 717 combo is very very good on its own nevertheless.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


milosz said:


> I've got *Lambda Pro Signatures, Lambda Pro*, SR-007's as well as Beyer ET-1000's and Koss ESP-950's with Stax cables on them.  I've also got LCD-2's, and you are right- the LCD-2's really have it going on but the Lambda Pro Signature and especially the SR-007 do offer something that the LCD-2's don't have, but also the LCD-2's offer things the Stax don't.  I really got to have them ALL  LOL
> 
> The ESP-950's are nice on my Stax SRM-T1 and SRM-1/MK II but I don't know that they really give me anything that the Stax don't.  Well a little more bass "slam" then the Lambda Signatures, and really they are quite good of themselves. But for me they are a bit redundant considering the Stax 'phones I have.  But I had to try them.
> 
> ...


 

 So how do those two differ?


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





jodet said:


> I'm running my SR-507's with a 323S and am very happy with the combination.   I could spend twice as much on an amp.  Then twice as much again.   It never ends.
> 
> I think the 323S and SR-507 combination is a good place to stop.


 

 Absolutely... a great sounding combo!
   
  Unless you're up for spending many thousands more... it is a superb place to stop.


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> So how do those two differ?


 

 There's some pretty good info here at the Lambda Sig page @ Wikiphonia:
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stax_SR-%CE%9B_Signature
   
  The "Pro Signature" is generally better-known as the "Lambda Sig/Signature", I've never heard it called the "Pro Sig" before but I suppose it is known as such.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I've got Lambda Pro Signatures, Lambda Pro, SR-007's as well as Beyer ET-1000's and Koss ESP-950's with Stax cables on them.  I've also got LCD-2's, and you are right- the LCD-2's really have it going on but the Lambda Pro Signature and especially the SR-007 do offer something that the LCD-2's don't have, but also the LCD-2's offer things the Stax don't.  I really got to have them ALL  LOL


 


  Indeed. That kind of effortless detailing and layering seem exclusive to this type of transducer. Conversely, the LCD2 is better than the 202 and SRM-1/MK2 in its ability to resolve low-level details and convey realistic weight/texture of instruments and voices. The 202 can be TOO light-sounding as in the notes just float there without any foundations and I suppose this is one of the Lambda's weakness that was fixed in the Omega line. Both 007s are better than the LCD2 but of course, more expensive to set up right too.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





padam said:


> I guess you meant the SR007s don't sound good on the T1  And yes, I feel it is a bit underpowered even on an SRM-717 which itself is noticeably better than the SRM-1/Mk2 but the O2 717 combo is very very good on its own nevertheless.


 


  Yes  I did mean T1.  I have T2 on the brain.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> So how do those two differ?


 


  The Lambda Pro has a 1.5 micron diaphragm and has some damping material behind the driver; the Lambda Pro Signature has the thinnest diaphragm ever used by Stax, at 1 micron, and it has no stuffing in the earcup.
   
  I have both the Lambda Pro and Lambda Pro Signature, and I prefer the Lambda Pro Signature.  With the Lambda Pro Signature I feel there is a greater sense of speed, and to my ears the bass is also better- a little deeper with more impact.  I don't like the treble peak of the  Lambda Pro Signature, so I usually employ a little EQ to tame it.  
   
  Having both is a bit redundant.  I will be selling the Lambda Pro's once I refurbish them with new earpads, with the new cloth "grille cloth" over the metal screen that protects the drivers in the earcup.  I'll probably also sell the Koss 950's.  If I didn't have the Lambda Pro Signatures, I'd keep the Koss.  The two sound similar, with the Koss having a little richer midrange and more bass impact.  My Koss ESP-950's have a Stax 5 pin cable, and before I sell them I want to make a Stax-to-Koss  adapter so the Koss can be used with their Koss amplifier if desired.


----------



## sphinxvc

-


----------



## spacemanspliff

Got my normal bias lambdas with .25 mylar drivers. They had stuffing in them so I removed that. Too hot. Sound is more taunt than the Lambda Normals. Midrange is more pronounced maybe. Bass is tight, tight. Oh, highs are a bit rolled off and the sound stage is not as airy as stock.
   
  The SRD-7B is BEGGING to be rewired. It has the original bits. Not cool. I remember the SRD7 I got from spritzer. I wish I could redo mine to those specs. No experience with soldering though. Guess I have to learn. I know that I could get a lot more out of this setup if I could improve the flow.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I did a lot more listening tonight to my O2 Mk1 and HE-60 through my WES and KGSS amps, and I think I still prefer the HE-60 a little over my O2 Mk1.  If the SR-009 really are a little brighter than the O2 Mk1 then I'm pretty sure I wont have a problem with using either amp with SR-009, since the HE-60 are brighter than O2 Mk1 and still do well with either amp. So I might start giving more thought to the SR-009 replacing my 007 at some point. Right now I think the price is just too crazy high, but I'm hoping to see lower prices later on. 
   
Even with the extra power and crispness of the KGSS the O2 still sound a little dark vs other phones.  I've posted before that I think the O2 Mk1 remind me a little of the LCD-2 v1, but my Silver Dragon cabled LCD-2 through my ZDT amp have the advantage of more bass impact and dynamics than the O2/KGSS combo.  If the O2 Mk1 are the first headphone I listen to in the day I think they sound just right, but then I switch to another headphone and the air and ambience pop out and the sound seems more transparent to me, especially with the HE-60.  I've seen people reporting similar things when they compare the SR-009 to the SR-007, and I wonder if anyone has compared a re-terminated HE-60 to the SR-009 yet?
   
It could just be my 49 year old ears, but since I can't get my high frequency hearing back I may be stuck staying with brighter headphones from now on.  I might even consider selling my V1 LCD-2 for a V2 someday, but the re-cable and upgraded transformers in my ZDT amp really helped a lot with them.


----------



## spacemanspliff

I hope by the time my hearing really fades, we can get go go gadget ears. If you get that reference, you might need them.


----------



## spacemanspliff

Has anyone ever done an alternative earpad for the lambdas? The leather is just sweat city. Even after taking the foam out.


----------



## milosz

I am spending WAY too much money on headphones & amps & DACs.....


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I am spending WAY too much money on headphones & amps & DACs.....


 

 Nice pic. And everything looks nice and organised!


----------



## chi2

Quote: 





spacemanspliff said:


> Has anyone ever done an alternative earpad for the lambdas? The leather is just sweat city. Even after taking the foam out.


 

 The SR-507/SR-404LE pads are genuine leather and a better alternative. Quite pricey though.


----------



## milosz

This is probably beyond the scope of this thread, but I'll ask anyway.
   
  I have a couple of Audio-Gd DACs with ACSS output (current-mode signal scheme, basically the same as Krell CAST) - 
   
  I am building a DIY SRM-T2.... and wonder if there is a way to add ACSS input.  I will write Audio-Gd I suppose, to see if they have any "input modules" etc available, but I thought I'd throw the idea out there.


----------



## milosz

OK, so I emailed Kingwa, and he says there's no sonic advantage in adding ACSS to the existing T2 amplifier, because the ACSS couldn't be integrated "seamlessly" into the T2.  Which is to say, if you added an ACSS input to the T2 design, you'd need to convert it from current to voltage in order for the signal to be able to drive the amp.  So, really, it doesn't matter whether I convert the ACSS signal in my NFB-10es DAC to voltage domain inside the NFB-10 and take the signal to the T2 by balanced audio cables, or if I were to connect the NFB-10 to the T2 by an ACSS cable using an ACSS input module in the T2 that would then have to convert to voltage domain inside the T2 to drive it's input stage- in both cases the ACSS signal is turned into a conventional audio voltage-based signal, and you lose the value of staying always in the ACSS domain.  The topology of the T2 would require a radical change to make it amenable to ACSS input. 
   
  The  kgss or  kgsshv amps, which are current-domain direct drive amps for Stax 'phones, would be more amenable to ACSS I would think, but I am not building one of those, I am building the DIY SRM-T2 so my interest in rigging an ACSS input for my "ultimate" Stax amp ends here.
   
  Probably would only have offered marginal audio benefit anyway, but what is audiophilia if not a ceaseless quest for every possible audio benefit, marginal or otherwise.


----------



## realmassy

It would be nice to see an amp from Audio-GD by the way


----------



## dukja

If T2 does not work in current domain, then you might want to check with the ACSS -> XLR cable.  It has a resistor at the XLR end to convert signal to voltage domain.  A headfier here also sell such cable.  If you are interested,  you can search the Ref-1/Ref-7 thread.  (Sorry, it has been long time and I cannot recall where it is exactly).
  
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> OK, so I emailed Kingwa, and he says there's no sonic advantage in adding ACSS to the existing T2 amplifier, because the ACSS couldn't be integrated "seamlessly" into the T2.  Which is to say, if you added an ACSS input to the T2 design, you'd need to convert it from current to voltage in order for the signal to be able to drive the amp.  So, really, it doesn't matter whether I convert the ACSS signal in my NFB-10es DAC to voltage domain inside the NFB-10 and take the signal to the T2 by balanced audio cables, or if I were to connect the NFB-10 to the T2 by an ACSS cable using an ACSS input module in the T2 that would then have to convert to voltage domain inside the T2 to drive it's input stage- in both cases the ACSS signal is turned into a conventional audio voltage-based signal, and you lose the value of staying always in the ACSS domain.  The topology of the T2 would require a radical change to make it amenable to ACSS input.
> 
> The  kgss or  kgsshv amps, which are current-domain direct drive amps for Stax 'phones, would be more amenable to ACSS I would think, but I am not building one of those, I am building the DIY SRM-T2 so my interest in rigging an ACSS input for my "ultimate" Stax amp ends here.
> 
> Probably would only have offered marginal audio benefit anyway, but what is audiophilia if not a ceaseless quest for every possible audio benefit, marginal or otherwise.


----------



## mcdeeda

okay guys
  so i'm looking into getting a pair of SR 507s, and i was wondering what a good amp for it would be, preferably under $1000, but i'd be willing to pay a bit more if it's really worth it
  any suggestions?
  thanks, btw


----------



## svyr

mcdeeda said:


> okay guys
> so i'm looking into getting a pair of SR 507s, and i was wondering what a good amp for it would be, preferably under $1000, but i'd be willing to pay a bit more if it's really worth it
> any suggestions?
> thanks, btw




SRM-1/mk2 (recapped power section) or better


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





mcdeeda said:


> okay guys
> so i'm looking into getting a pair of SR 507s, and i was wondering what a good amp for it would be, preferably under $1000, but i'd be willing to pay a bit more if it's really worth it
> any suggestions?
> thanks, btw


 

 Get a SRM-323S for your Lambdas, or what svyr said. Good used unit for the money.
  
  FYI, There is a pair of almost new 507's for sale at a fair price by a trusted HF member over at Agon.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





milosz said:


> OK, so I emailed Kingwa, and he says there's no sonic advantage in adding ACSS to the existing T2 amplifier, because the ACSS couldn't be integrated "seamlessly" into the T2.  Which is to say, if you added an ACSS input to the T2 design, you'd need to convert it from current to voltage in order for the signal to be able to drive the amp.  So, really, it doesn't matter whether I convert the ACSS signal in my NFB-10es DAC to voltage domain inside the NFB-10 and take the signal to the T2 by balanced audio cables, or if I were to connect the NFB-10 to the T2 by an ACSS cable using an ACSS input module in the T2 that would then have to convert to voltage domain inside the T2 to drive it's input stage- in both cases the ACSS signal is turned into a conventional audio voltage-based signal, and you lose the value of staying always in the ACSS domain.  The topology of the T2 would require a radical change to make it amenable to ACSS input.
> 
> The  kgss or  kgsshv amps, which are current-domain direct drive amps for Stax 'phones, would be more amenable to ACSS I would think, but I am not building one of those, I am building the DIY SRM-T2 so my interest in rigging an ACSS input for my "ultimate" Stax amp ends here.
> 
> Probably would only have offered marginal audio benefit anyway, but what is audiophilia if not a ceaseless quest for every possible audio benefit, marginal or otherwise.


 


  Now that you mention it, ACSS seems like a great choice for a stat amp input. Wouldn't it be possible to use ACSS on something like http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore2_prj.htm?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Now that you mention it, ACSS seems like a great choice for a stat amp input. Wouldn't it be possible to use ACSS on something like http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore2_prj.htm?


 

 That would be the* KGSS *amp you reference there. (the prototype unit from ~11 years ago)
   
  And no, I dont have a clue about adapting the ACSS thing.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mcdeeda said:


> okay guys
> so i'm looking into getting a pair of SR 507s, and i was wondering what a good amp for it would be, preferably under $1000, but i'd be willing to pay a bit more if it's really worth it
> any suggestions?
> thanks, btw


 

 SRM-323S is the way to go.


----------



## mcdeeda

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> SRM-323S is the way to go.


 
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Get a SRM-323S for your Lambdas, or what svyr said. Good used unit for the money.
> 
> FYI, There is a pair of almost new 507's for sale at a fair price by a trusted HF member over at Agon.


 
  Quote: 





svyr said:


> SRM-1/mk2 (recapped power section) or better


 
   
  Thanks guys, i'm going to do more research, but those all look like good options, and i'll check out the 507s on Agon


----------



## The Monkey

Let's eliminate the a-gd nonsense from this thread.  Thanks in advance.


----------



## sphinxvc

Pulled the trigger on a 252S today.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Now that you mention it, ACSS seems like a great choice for a stat amp input. Wouldn't it be possible to use ACSS on something like http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore2_prj.htm?


 

 Yes that amp would be an ideal candidate - it's a "current domain" topology. In fact, to the best of my knowledge, that's the only stat amp that has the kind of topology that would make it amenable to using ACSS.   That is the amp known as the "kgss" - Kevin Gilmore Solid State.  There is a new version,  kgsshv - Kevin Gilmore Solid State High Voltage which has a greater voltage swing, which is said to be ideal for SR-007.
   
  How, exactly, you would interface ACSS to this amp is beyond my tech level. I don't really know what an ACSS (or, the similar scheme used by Krell- 'CAST") signal looks like, except it must involve transfer current from a high-impedance source to a low-impedance load, which would pretty much eliminate any interaction of the audio cable in the circuit.  Also, since you are staying in current mode, you can eliminate the I-to-V stage in the DAC, which means you can eliminate a stage.  And, if you keep the volume control in the ACSS current-signal realm, audio effects of interactions with the volume control are lower than when using a pot or stepped resistors as a voltage divider in a normal audio signal chain.  There are advantages to it.  
   
  Maybe I'll ask Kevin Gilmore if he's ever considered it.
   
  By the way, I asked Kingwa if he ever considered building a direct-drive electrostatic amp, and he indicated he had no interest in doing such a product.  If he ever did build a direct-stat amp, you can bet it would be built around ACSS.  I suspect the demand is just too small.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> Let's eliminate the a-gd nonsense from this thread.  Thanks in advance.


 


  Why?  And what makes it nonsense?


----------



## ManBeard

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Why?  And what makes it nonsense?


 


   
  There's more than enough Audio-gd talk in this forum. We don't need it in this thread.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





manbeard said:


> There's more than enough Audio-gd talk in this forum. We don't need it in this thread.


 

 That's an opinion. 
   
  The discussion wasn't specific to Audio-Gd, current domain technology is also used by Krell, and, not to put too fine a point on it, the KGSS and KGSSHV dedicated *STAX* electrostatic direct drive headphone amplifiers.  But, it is probably too technical for many on this forum.


----------



## milosz

For those who _do_ understand the engineering, you may find it interesting that I posted in another forum and to my post Kevin Gilmore replied that he's not interested in developing a current-domain input interface for the KGSS/KGSSHV amplifiers because there's too few folks using CAST-capable sources.  So that effectively kills the idea.
   
  Too bad, because current-domain signal transmission  does offer sonic benefits - and who better than Stax users could reap the benefit of greater transparency... I mean, if you spend $2,000 on a pair of SR-007's and $4,000 on a custom-built amplifier, it seems you are the kind of person who wants any additional sonic improvement that you can get.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Too bad, because current-domain signal transmission  does offer sonic benefits - and who better than Stax users could reap the benefit of greater transparency... I mean, if you spend $2,000 on a pair of SR-007's and $4,000 on a custom-built amplifier, it seems you are the kind of person who wants any additional sonic improvement that you can get.


 
   
  The industry unfortunately often doesn't follow what sounds better or is even logical. There is no reason to use RCA jacks and connectors for S/Pdif, for example. None. We can dream about how much better things would be if there was an industry wide standard for I2S, but coaxial digital with RCA is just silly when BNC is so much better at that job, and it's so easy to implement, and yet the majority of DACs don't have it, especially the more affordable ones.


----------



## milosz

Yeah BNC makes a lot more sense for RF like a SPDIF signal.  It's not just the SWR that can occur at an impedance discontinuity that a typical RCA represents, but many RCA's are not all that "tight" and RFI can get in.  Optical via Toslink has some advantages- electrical isolation for one, which can often be a good thing - but in general the optical receivers available aren't really all that wonderful. 
   
  With a high-resolution transducer like even an older Stax Lambda Pro, not to mention the SR-007's and 009, you can hear some of these subtle differences. Even the older Stax amps like SRM-1/MkII and SRM-T1 can benefit from really good DACs which aren't struggling to convert a bitstream that's infested with RFI and burdened by reflections from to SWR due to lousy RCA connections.
   
  That said, there are some RCAs that work OK.  I'd _PREFER_ BNC, but there are some RCA's that use RG-6 cable and RCA connectors that are very close to 75 ohms.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milosz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> That said, there are some RCAs that work OK.  I'd _PREFER_ BNC, but there are some RCA's that use RG-6 cable and RCA connectors that are very close to 75 ohms.


 

 Any specific that you can mention?


----------



## svyr

amarphael said:


> Quote:
> 
> Any specific that you can mention?




(I got the impression) it seems to do more with the connector impedance and the cable type (shielding)... Not just omgrcaisevilandletsinrfi

as for sonic benefit of ACSS - what is it? Are you sure the 100-db- of thd+n of the analog section (incl will transducers) won't negate it anyway , reducing it to a moot marketing point ?


----------



## spacemanspliff

I am going to rewire the SRD 7SB that I have. I want to get a new stax plug as well as some speaker terminals that can accept banana plugs. Where can I get the stax plugs and is there anything else I can/should use?
   
  I just want to do the simple Spritzer mod of wiring the transformers to the speaker terminals and then to the plug. I have the schematics but am unable to find much more on what I need. It looks like I can do all of this without having to solder?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





svyr said:


> (I got the impression) it seems to do more with the connector impedance and the cable type (shielding)... Not just omgrcaisevilandletsinrfi
> 
> as for sonic benefit of ACSS - what is it? Are you sure the 100-db- of thd+n of the analog section (incl will transducers) won't negate it anyway
> 
> ...


 

*Cables-* there are some RCA cables sold by Cableslimited on eBay that are made of RG-59u, which has copper braid + aluminum foil shields, and is designed for a characteristic impedance of 75 ohms.  The RCA connectors on these cables are pretty chunky, fit tightly and have a split center pin, which makes the center pin fit a bit more tightly.  I measured them on my RF impedance bridge and they measure 75.0 ohms with very low SWR up to about 100 MHz.   They don't cost much, either- 3 ft pair under $7 including shipping.  They make about as good as an RCA SPDIF cable as you can get, in terms of their electrical and mechanical performance. You can buy much more costly cables for your RCA SPDIF use, but I am not sure it could be demonstrated that they would be better.
   
*ACSS - *well I was prepared to stop talking about this, as it appears there will never be a Stax-compatible amplifier that has an ACSS input, but someone asked what ACSS is so here is the answer: Years back, Krell developed a signal-transmission scheme called CAST, which Audio-Gd also uses and calls ACSS. This signal uses CURRENT instead of voltage to carry the signal, and as such it is immune to degradation of the signal by cables. (Has to do with the nature of source, amp and cable impedance in a current-based system, it just doesn't suffer the same problems that cables carrying voltage-based signals can.)  So, the theoretical advantage is that you can connect a source to an amplifier without ANY kind of noise, high frequency loss, etc that can come from cables.
   
  If you read reviews of various Audio-Gd and Krell products that use these connections, they all report that the sound is better using CAST / ACSS  vs. balanced audio connects or single-ended circuits. Based on these opinions I began to wonder if  this technology, which is reported to offer sonic improvements audible on speakers and dynamic headphones, wouldn't also be a nice way to connect a source to a high-end Stax amp.  I mean, people are paying $1000 for an Alps RK50 pot to use as the volume control in their DIY-SRM-T2 "ultimate" Stax amps.... and I figured if they are going the 'cost-no-object" route, spending money on ANYTHING that will increase the sound quality EVEN A LITTLE for their Stax 'phones, I figured this technology ought to be tried, too.


----------



## livewire

Lately they have been paying around $600 for their RK50's.
  Me thinks that is too much. $180 for a quad DACT is more than enough.
  Of course I believe in BJ cables too, so wadoo I know?
   
  Next up, NASA interconnects....


----------



## ujamerstand

^^ That RK50 costs even more after shipping and customs... Seriously man, should've went with a NOS quad of XF2 instead.


----------



## Lil' Knight

ujamerstand said:


> ^^ That RK50 costs even more after shipping and customs... Seriously man, should've went with a NOS quad of XF2 instead.




lol... buyer's remorse


----------



## ujamerstand

Heh. You don't say. But even more reasons to get a quad of XF2 in the future.


----------



## Horio

You need to move to the other side of the border ujamerstand.  Here we don't pay customs on hardly anything, nor tax on most everything ordered online... =P
   
  The RK50 is a pretty spendy little pot.  I took the plunge because it solders directly to the board, and because if I ever wanted to try one the T2 was the build to do it!


----------



## purk

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Lately they have been paying around $600 for their RK50's.
> Me thinks that is too much. $180 for a quad DACT is more than enough.
> Of course I believe in BJ cables too, so wadoo I know?
> 
> Next up, NASA interconnects....


 
   
  I can't find the vendor who sells the RK50 at that price any more.  Linky please?


----------



## Horio

Check out onlinecomponents.com.


----------



## n3rdling

ygpm


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Lately they have been paying around $600 for their RK50's.
> Me thinks that is too much. $180 for a quad DACT is more than enough.


 

 I didn't opt for the RK50 for my KGSSHV, but I'm not a DACT fan, they aren't that great and can be noisy. The Goldpoint SAs are much nicer IMO for not a lot more money. Ultimately I went with the Khozmo quad balanced though, I wanted the extra steps for finer volume adjustment.


----------



## n3rdling

The Khozmos look really cool.  I'm trying to decide myself about what pots to get for DIYT2/KGSSHVs/Dynahis/KG Blowtorch - that's 8 pots needed.  I'm going to use a RK50 on the T2 and one KGSSHV, will use a couple of KG's digital boards, and unsure about the rest.  DACT and Khozmo both look interesting but I'm afraid the DACT wont have enough steps for me.  Which Khozmo did you get?  SMD or stepped ladder?  Did you get 50KOhm resistance?  One of the z foil steppers by chance?


----------



## Lil' Knight

SMD looks cooler and easier to torque the shaft, but it doesn't have the wiring flexibility (wires are pre-soldered on the pot). Stepped ladder, hard to torque, more flexibility (input resistors, switch the standard Dales to PRPs, solder pads). I'm glad that I was broke and settled on the SMD for the T2. Call me a Khozmo fanboy. 

 

BTW, since you have to build the T2 chassis, chances are that you can make use of KG's digital attenuator for the T2.


----------



## milosz

Have you seen these:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Balance-XLR-23-Stepped-Attenuator-Potentiometer-50K-Log-/300542070186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f9b40daa#ht_4531wt_1064


----------



## Nevod

Sorry, didn't see a nearby thread.


----------



## realmassy

Quick update on my 2050 system.
  It has been serviced because of the hum I was hearing in the left channel. They checked the energiser and found no issues with them. No noise.
  They sent it back yesterday and I played a few hours... I still get the noise in the left channel, noticeable after an hour. The seller is happy to offer the refund anyway.
   
  But..there's more going on here: tonight I switched the energiser off, disconnected the plug, but I was still hearing the noise in the headphones. Disconnected the RCA cable, touched the connectors...noise back. Touched the metal chassis of the dac...noise.
  Unplugged the dac...noise gone. Touched the iPod on the Onkyo dock, which was plugged into the wall, noise back.
  Went to a different room and touched the DVD player...noise back. Touching anything metal plugged into the wall produces a noise in the left channel. I left the headphones for 20-30 mins and touched again the dac, and there was no noise this time.
  Weird isn't it?


----------



## vrln

As some here might remember, I´ve also bought a SRM-323S in addition to the SRM-600 I already have. I still haven´t exactly decided which one I´ll keep, but I´m currently leaning in the direction of selling off the SRM-323S. The SRM-600 to me seems better suited for Lambdas. It sounds more elegant, but to be honest it´s hard to evaluate them as I have them hooked to different sources.
   
  This is a completely shameless plug: I haven´t put up the SRM-323S for sale yet, but if there´s someone in the EU here interested in it, feel free to message me. I´ll most likely end up selling it. It´s a native 230VAC model from an official euro distributor.


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





vrln said:


> This is a completely shameless plug: I haven´t put up the SRM-323S for sale yet, but if there´s someone in the EU here interested in it, feel free to message me. I´ll most likely end up selling it. It´s a native 230VAC model from an official euro distributor.


 

 PM sent yesterday, but no reply


----------



## milosz

More parts arriving for my DIY SRM-T2 build.....  I've got all the transistors now; and the "fast diodes" for the power supply; have to get the other diodes now (LEDs, zeners) and start ordering passive parts...transformers are on their way, being wound in Canada....circuit boards on their way....4-gang stepped attenuator on it's way.....had the EL-34's.
   
  Got the aluminum-oxide TO-220 insulators, little ceramic wafers; also got the super-strong plastic M3 screws to bolt the TO-220's down from some aerospace fastener company.  The high voltages these transistors sit at, you can't use regular insulators and some builders had arcing through the insulating washers when they used metal screws, hence the plastic screws. This is the most exotic build I've ever done, I'm having a great time with it.
   
  The biggest challenge is going to be the casework.  I am not using the stuff designed by Kevin Gilmore, it's not really available, I'd have to have it fabbed.  They did a group buy, and Kevin built like 20 sets of the chassis but those were all spoken for a year ago or so, not available to me. So I have to be creative.  Once the boards arrive I will start my design.  I can get good heatsinks cut to size from Par-Metal, but as for the chassis themselves, I'm not sure what to use.... I can modify casework from http://www.thlaudio.com/casebpwrE.htm  or  http://www.thlaudio.com/casebpwrE.htm  maybe if I can get stuff from them that will hold the giant boards in the amp and it's over-the-top regulated power supply.... might have to totally fabricate a chassis, maybe I'll have to break out my TIG welding junk. 
   
  Pretty exciting, to think that I'll be able to finally hear more of what my SR-007's are capable of.  Using them on the SRM-1/mk II is OK but.... not really satisfying.
   
  Anybody out there already have a DIY T-2?  Maybe you can give your impressions, talk about the sound on the various Stax 'phones you've tried it with.......


----------



## Currawong

I'm not game to do a T2, just the KGSSHV. I found the perfect case for the off-board heatsink amp boards, though being Japan it was a bit expensive. I did pick up a small drill press and the bits needed to do the large holes for sockets. Now I just have to push through, get the remaining parts and get it all together.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





milosz said:


> More parts arriving for my DIY SRM-T2 build.....  I've got all the transistors now; and the "fast diodes" for the power supply; have to get the other diodes now (LEDs, zeners) and start ordering passive parts...transformers are on their way, being wound in Canada....circuit boards on their way....4-gang stepped attenuator on it's way.....had the EL-34's.
> 
> Got the aluminum-oxide TO-220 insulators, little ceramic wafers; also got the super-strong plastic M3 screws to bolt the TO-220's down from some aerospace fastener company.  The high voltages these transistors sit at, you can't use regular insulators and some builders had arcing through the insulating washers when they used metal screws, hence the plastic screws. This is the most exotic build I've ever done, I'm having a great time with it.
> 
> ...


 

 Nice!  More details please   Which company did you go with for the transformers?  Which attenuator are you using?  Did you order all transistors from bdent?
   
  Regarding the chassis, you should shoot deepak a PM at the other place as I believe there is a better option being worked on.


----------



## ujamerstand

Canadian Company? Must be SumR. 
   
  Though massively OT, I'd also like to know good places to source C3675 and J79/K216.


----------



## dukja

Would it be good idea for the ones here participating the KGSSHV or T1 build to start a thread?   (Not try to complain but would like to see more discuss on that here)  I haven't even get my board yet since I haven't had chance to swing back to the other side too often.
  
  Quote: 





ujamerstand said:


> Canadian Company? Must be SumR.
> 
> Though massively OT, I'd also like to know good places to source C3675 and J79/K216.


----------



## ujamerstand

I think it's better to keep construction threads all in one place.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





cosmopragma said:


> I don't have personal experience with this Nuforce Icon amp so I don't know if it's any good per se but derived from the specs it might be ok.
> I've utilized Tripath T-2020 based amps (that don't have more oomph than the Nuforce thingie) in the past for the purpose and it was quite good.
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Well that's interesting. I bought a Stax "pro" transformer-bias box so I could try my various electrostatic headphones with some of the amplifiers in my collection. A transformer will limit low frequency response, the high frequency response,  there will be some phase problems,  group-delay issues, harmonic distortion from the core hysteresis properties and so on. If the transformer is designed well, these things can be minimized. However, in the Stax direct drive amplifiers there is no transformer and hence no potential for these problems.  Of course amplifiers come with a whole set of their own issues.
   
  Anyway I've got this SRD-7pro, and amplifiers: Citation II with the McShane mods, Forte 4a with the Soderburg mods, two of the original pure class-A Monarchy SM70's, an AMC class-A MOSFET / EL-34 amp, a Mr. Liang 845 SET amp (with 300B driver tubes,) and a Pass DIY F3 class-A power JFET amp (but that probably doesn't have enough power, alas.)
   
  In the fullness of time, I will get around to trying these amps with my various electrostatic 'phones (Koss ESP-950, Stax Lambda Signature, Stax SR-007 mk II) on the SRD-7, but I haven't got there yet.  I don't expect to be blown away by the sound, but often these kind of experiments provide interesting results. 
   
  Anyone with experience using various amps with an SRD-7 / STAX earspeakers, I'd be glad to hear your impressions.


----------



## Clarkmc2

To give the energizer box approach a fair shake, that old box needs to be improved a bit. If you can possibly get your hands on a Spritzer board for it, and rewire it direct (skip the speaker terminals altogether), it will be in the high fidelity hunt. The original, unmodified boxes will not give anything a fair hearing. If the amps are really good, they will be at a disadvantage.
   
  Another plus, the board will still allow one socket each, Pro and Normal, so all Stax phones are fair game.


----------



## NamelessPFG

So you're all saying that my unmodified SRD-7/SB is really holding these Lambdas back? (Possibly moreso than the TX-SV515PRO I had lying around to drive them with?) They're already a noticeable improvement over the AD700s; how much better does it get?
   
  I don't think those Spritzer boards are in production anymore, which will complicate things severely. Why did they go out of production, anyway? Too much cost? Even then, do they require external AC power (making it incompatible with my transformer unit), or are they self-biasing?
   
  In terms of rewiring these things, I'm hearing different opinions. Some say to just connect the speaker terminals to the transformers, then the transformers to the headphone sockets, bypassing the PCB altogether. What I'm hearing here suggests to bypass just the earspeaker/loudspeaker switch, from the sound of it. Even then, it would help if I simply knew what wires off the transformers to solder where without having to study the PCB first, though it's probably a good idea to study the PCB and the schematics anyway.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> To give the energizer box approach a fair shake, that old box needs to be improved a bit. If you can possibly get your hands on a Spritzer board for it, and rewire it direct (skip the speaker terminals altogether), it will be in the high fidelity hunt. The original, unmodified boxes will not give anything a fair hearing. If the amps are really good, they will be at a disadvantage.
> 
> Another plus, the board will still allow one socket each, Pro and Normal, so all Stax phones are fair game.


 

 x2.  
   
  I have an old SRD-7 SB that Audiocats modded for pro and normal bias jacks, with inputs directly into the transformers via Vampire banana jacks, and no pass through, and this sounds a bit better than my stock SRD-7 Mk2 or SRD-7 Pro (which I paid over $350 each for the stock pro-bias boxes).  It's more transparent, with better micro-detail and extension; although it is only presenting about a 4 ohm load, or less as frequency approaches DC.  
   
  That being said, the stock SRD-7 Mk2 or Pro with an 5-12 watt speaker amp still drove the SR-007 better than either of my old Stax SRM-1 Mk2 Pro amps.  And the transformers with speaker amp have more driving power for SR-007 than my eXStatA as well, although not the detail and extension of the dedicated stat amp.
   
  I'd probably take $225 on each stock pro-bias Stax box, but will never sell the audiocats modded one.  It's pretty close to the Woo WEE right now.


----------



## Clarkmc2

I'm not saying the old equipment is bad; just that the improvement is desirable. But if you see the old Stax board in there and compare it to Spritzer's, it is like a broken bar stool as compared to a Chippendale desk.
   
  The "Spritzer Board" was designed and built by member Spritzer. He was kind enough to sell off the spares. He designed another version with an LED driver; I heard it at the 2010 Chicago meet. I do not think he produced it in quantity.
   
  The board replaces the rudimentary bias supply circuit of the original Stax boxes and is a big improvement in that area. It also eliminates the thermistors. That improves the sound but removes some circuit protection as well. I am more than willing to live with the trade. The other modification is to improve the quality of the wiring and connections. I chose to simplify the wiring by leaving off the connections to the speaker terminals altogether. Just use the bundled cabling coming in from the amp and hook the leads directly to the transformers, and the transformers directly to the sockets. The pin out scheme can be found http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/gilmore_prj.htm in Kevin Gillmore's project on the old Headwize site. I use the selector switch for AC on/off only.
   
  And yes, it requires an AC source. Edit: Maybe not. See Spritzer's post #16286.
   
  If any of this is possible without the bias boards, I don't know. I have converted three boxes, two for friends. My apologies if I have misstated any technical information. I have never designed anything.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> So you're all saying that my unmodified SRD-7/SB is really holding these Lambdas back? (Possibly moreso than the TX-SV515PRO I had lying around to drive them with?) They're already a noticeable improvement over the AD700s; how much better does it get?
> 
> I don't think those Spritzer boards are in production anymore, which will complicate things severely. Why did they go out of production, anyway? Too much cost? Even then, do they require external AC power (making it incompatible with my transformer unit), or are they self-biasing?
> 
> In terms of rewiring these things, I'm hearing different opinions. Some say to just connect the speaker terminals to the transformers, then the transformers to the headphone sockets, bypassing the PCB altogether. What I'm hearing here suggests to bypass just the earspeaker/loudspeaker switch, from the sound of it. Even then, it would help if I simply knew what wires off the transformers to solder where without having to study the PCB first, though it's probably a good idea to study the PCB and the schematics anyway.


 

 I think Spritzer just made the boards for fun, not as a business.  
   
  I thought the Lambdas sounded pretty good from an SRD-7 SB, but out of a budget vintage Stax amp like the SRM-1 Mk2 Pro they were a bit better.  The transformers offer good dynamics and punch, but the sound is a little veiled with them vs a dedicated stat amp.  I still thought that an 8-watt amp with transformer and SR-Lambda could compete with an HD600 on a Woo WA6.
   
  My eXStatA with normal bias Lambdas is an excellent match, beating out the transformers as well.  Where I see the transformers being a bonus is when you need a lot of power for an SR-007 or HE-60 and can't afford a $1500 - $5000 stat amp to drive them.  But even via an underpowered $1500 Woo GES the SR-007 at moderate volumes will sound much better than using a stock Stax transformer on a $2500 speaker amp like my ZDT.


----------



## cjfrbw

I have been using 300b amps with 7SB and one of Spritzer's pro mod 7 types. Currently, I have a Lambda normal bias, SR 3/5n driver normal bias, and a  current 507 pro bias. The result has been utterly hypnotic with all three.  I think more edge definition and crispness would actually deter some from the magical effect.

 Most of the chatter here tends to support the direct amps rather than transformer coupling, but I have also noted that  there is a minority population Stax users that would ONLY use transformer coupling with high quality speaker amps. Good transformer coupling enhances tone, musical flow and fullness.


 I suppose it ultimately comes down to listening preferences and taste. One must try as many as possible and choose.


----------



## milosz

RE:  Stax "energizers"
   
  This is all very interesting.  I still haven't gotten around to trying my Stax SRM-7pro  box, but I am now more anxious to try it on various tube and solid state amps, I'm really glad I bought it.
   
  I really liked the results I got from using my (planar) HiFiMan HE-6's on various amps.  So I know there is some fun, and good listening, to be had trying different "speaker" amps with headphones.  For me, this hobby is equal parts joy of listening and fun of playing around with the gear, building stuff, etc.  I get great pleasure out of both aspects.
   
  Doesn't Woo also make an "energizer?"  How does it compare to the Stax?
  ========================================================================
   
  This "Spritzer board" - anyone got a schematic for it?
   
  For the heck of it, here is the inside of a Stax SRM-7


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> My eXStatA with normal bias Lambdas is an excellent match, beating out the transformers as well.


 

 I concur with this. My SR-Lambda sound much better out of an Exstata than through an SRD7-SB fed by either my M3 or a t-amp.
   
  Now admittedly I don't have what most would consider a suitable high-end speaker amp to try with these, but the M3 is a great sounding amp and can certainly handle the transformer load - and the difference is pretty substantial.


----------



## oso

Hello everybody
   
  I can read everywhere that the stax srm727 is badly designed, bad sounding and non linear. However, I can't find a post with measures demonstrating or explaining this in details. It is said that the design is bad, but in what does it differ from the 717 for example?
   
  thank you very much to indicate me interesting links about it
   
  All the best
   
  olivier


----------



## spritzer

The 727 isn't badly designed, in fact it is quite a nice design and makes 99% of "dynamic" amps look like the cheap toys they really are.  Stax did make an unfortunate change to the design by shortening the feedback loop and leaving the last stage out of it.  Ramp up the output stage bias and you could get away with this but in this setup it doesn't work.  Distortion is an order of magnitude higher and the sound signature is clearly non linear. 
   
  Good luck finding any measurements since we never post this stuff.  Why bother since most people can't understand it anyway... 
   
  As for the Pro bias adapter boards, I did make these out of necessity since the Pro bias transformers were fetching silly prices and there was an abundance of very cheap normal bias units out there.  Four versions later and it is about as good as a bias supply can be while still being able to cram it into a SRD-5.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I do still have about a dozen units left so if anybody needs one just PM me.  The boards are assembled so you just need to install it in the chassis.  These also work with non Stax transformers should you want to experiment. 
   
  As for running these in a non AC powered box, I've never tried it but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work.  I've certainly used this design in tiny SB units I built so it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## oso

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 727 isn't badly designed, in fact it is quite a nice design and makes 99% of "dynamic" amps look like the cheap toys they really are.  Stax did make an unfortunate change to the design by shortening the feedback loop and leaving the last stage out of it.  Ramp up the output stage bias and you could get away with this but in this setup it doesn't work.  Distortion is an order of magnitude higher and the sound signature is clearly non linear.
> 
> Good luck finding any measurements since we never post this stuff.  Why bother since most people can't understand it anyway...
> 
> .


 
  Thanks for your answer. So it's all in the feedback design (claimed as a enhancement in Stax adverts!). Why did they do that???
   
  If you have these measurements somewhere, please do not hesitate, and comparisons with references such as 717 or KGSS should be really interesting!
   
  Olivier


----------



## Amarphael

I'm considering picking up the SRS-005A system from seyo-shop, seems like a nice deal... couple of questions:
   
  - What would be a good power adapter for 230V?
   
  - Is the 252S markedly improved from the 252A, and can the latter be brought "up to spec" or is it a different circuit?


----------



## svyr

amarphael said:


> I'm considering picking up the SRS-005A system from seyo-shop, seems like a nice deal... couple of questions:
> 
> - What would be a good power adapter for 230V?
> 
> - Is the 252S markedly improved from the 252A, and can the latter be brought "up to spec" or is it a different circuit?




from the spec pages the only difference is S has 4db higher gain (but the same max output voltage).I think there's also a review of a guy comparing both somewhere on head-fi. You could try get him to open the units and take a pic, if he didn't do an in shop comparison. or ask spritzer, he might know  ...

From memory 12v, 0.4A+, regulated switching wall-wart with a center pin as - . 

There are at least two threads on the topic: 



http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/441597/stax-basic-system-power-adaptor-eu#post_5963306

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/210476/srm-252-power-supply


----------



## RockCity

I wonder what Spritzer thinks of the 404LE. I've been comparing them back and forth with the O2's and they are surprisingly good.


----------



## cat6man

rockcity said:


> I wonder what Spritzer thinks of the 404LE. I've been comparing them back and forth with the O2's and they are surprisingly good.




with what amp are you comparing them?


----------



## Amarphael

Thanks Svyr, You're Da Man 
   
  Now just to make up my mind... SRS-005A or MDR-EX1000 (yeah not quite comparable but both intended for my planned transportable minimalist earphone rig).
  
  Quote: 





svyr said:


> from the spec pages the only difference is S has 4db higher gain (but the same max output voltage).I think there's also a review of a guy comparing both somewhere on head-fi. You could try get him to open the units and take a pic, if he didn't do an in shop comparison. or ask spritzer, he might know
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## RockCity

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> with what amp are you comparing them?


 


  KGSS.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> As for the Pro bias adapter boards, I did make these out of necessity since the Pro bias transformers were fetching silly prices and there was an abundance of very cheap normal bias units out there.  Four versions later and it is about as good as a bias supply can be while still being able to cram it into a SRD-5.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  For anyone unsure of the quality of the Spritzer SRD-7 boards, they are a beautifully constructed and filled piece of work. Made the original Stax board look a bit....ummmm.....industrial, could we say. It works superbly. The Sigmas out of a good speaker amp and these sound VERY good. Caution is advised with using these with (in my limited experience of 3) Audio Research valve power amps. They hum (and this is NOT due to Spritzer's board - it was  the same with the original board). Reversing the mains plug and moving the SRD-7 well away from all transformers did nothing to change this. There is one thing left to try - run the SRD-7 off the same 240 ->110 mains transformer (as the valve amp is a US mains voltage version). On the other hand, from the Studer A68 amp, the SRD-7 Spritzer has no background noise at all that I can hear.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> For anyone unsure of the quality of the Spritzer SRD-7 boards, they are a beautifully constructed and filled piece of work. Made the original Stax board look a bit....ummmm.....industrial, could we say. It works superbly. The Sigmas out of a good speaker amp and these sound VERY good. Caution is advised with using any SRD-7 with (in my limited experience of 3) Audio Research valve power amps. They hum (and this is NOT due to Spritzer's board - it was  the same with the original board). Reversing the mains plug and moving the SRD-7 well away from all transformers did nothing to change this. There is one thing left to try - run the SRD-7 off the same 240 ->110 mains transformer (as the valve amp is a US mains voltage version). On the other hand, from the Studer A68 amp, the SRD-7 Spritzer has no background noise at all that I can hear.


 



 Studer is professional) stuff
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Thanks Svyr, You're Da Man
> 
> Now just to make up my mind... SRS-005A or MDR-EX1000 (yeah not quite comparable but both intended for my planned transportable minimalist earphone rig).


 

 Hey, there's a 005 auction here if you don't mind used.


----------



## Amarphael

Ha, Thanks and i definitely don't mind if it comes at a bargain price. Not sure about the 212 amp though, the 313 design seems to be frowned upon as i recall. I'll have to to look it up.


----------



## anetode

Just picked up an SR-003 for 200$ on eBay. Shouldn't be a problem with the 727II.
   
   
  Alas this may have been only a way to temporarily satiate the gadget lust for an SR-009.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





rockcity said:


> I wonder what Spritzer thinks of the 404LE. I've been comparing them back and forth with the O2's and they are surprisingly good.


 

  It's one of the best Lambdas, more balanced then the 507 and clearly uses some of the SR-SC1 parts.  I would have kept mine if I didn't have this freak SR-404 here which is probably a SR-SC1 and I got for less than 100$... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> For anyone unsure of the quality of the Spritzer SRD-7 boards, they are a beautifully constructed and filled piece of work. Made the original Stax board look a bit....ummmm.....industrial, could we say. It works superbly. The Sigmas out of a good speaker amp and these sound VERY good. Caution is advised with using these with (in my limited experience of 3) Audio Research valve power amps. They hum (and this is NOT due to Spritzer's board - it was  the same with the original board). Reversing the mains plug and moving the SRD-7 well away from all transformers did nothing to change this. There is one thing left to try - run the SRD-7 off the same 240 ->110 mains transformer (as the valve amp is a US mains voltage version). On the other hand, from the Studer A68 amp, the SRD-7 Spritzer has no background noise at all that I can hear.


 

 Hum is indeed always a problem with transformers and the lack of a transformer in the bias supply.  If neutral and hot were more clearly defined (or even better if we were all using fully balanced power) then this wouldn't be an issue but real life is rarely so simple. 
   
  An isolation transformer will remove any hum if the bias supply is the culprit.  Running the supply off a transformer would always be a better idea but there is no way to even the smallest transformer inside the SRD-7, let alone the SRD-5 or SRD-5.


----------



## John Buchanan

I tried running the SRD-7 from the 240 ->110 mains transformer, and the hum is still present. Grrrrrr. Interesting - the LED is quite dim now.


----------



## spritzer

It's a neon bulb and not a LED.  Their native voltage is 110V so to run them at a higher voltage you need a resistor inline to drop the voltage so the lower the input voltage, the dimmer the NE-2 bulb. 
   
  Is it a true isolation transformer and not the more common autoformer step down units?  These are much cheaper to build so it is quite rare to a see a true step down transformer these days.


----------



## John Buchanan

Birgir, it's a step down transformer - sorry. I have a total lack of knowledge of electronic stuff.


----------



## sphinxvc

So I thought I would get a Lambda Pro a while ago, but no luck so far, turns out I have no use after all for the 252S I bought--it's FS if anyone is interested.


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Hi all-
   
  I need some information about the SRS-2170 Stax system.
   
  I am basically wanting to know which would sound better overall: SRS-2170 *OR* HD 600 w/Sheer Audio HA-006++
   
  My main concern with Stax is the lack of bass and bass impact.
   
  Bass is important to me because I do appreciate the chill-out genre.
   
  That said, I like for my music to sound alive, sizzly, somewhat airy, with good bass.
   
  What should I do?


----------



## NamelessPFG

I find the bass impact of my Lambdas just fine, though SineGen seems to reveal a rolloff below 40 Hz to the point where 30 Hz is inaudible at lower listening levels...but I can't fault the Lambdas for that because the AD700s and my SS-20s roll off similarly there, and I get the feeling that it's somewhere else in the chain. Could be the sound card settings.
   
  Then again, I'm not looking for head-rattling amounts of bass that some may demand out of headphones (especially given some people's obsessions with lots of big, powerful, house/car-rattling subwoofers while the rest of their speakers remain unupgraded), so long as I can hear the notes, and that's where the Lambda delivers. It may not slam as hard, but that's to be expected from an electrostatic driver.
   
  The only thing is that mine isn't stock; someone rebuilt the drivers with slightly thicker 2.5 micron mylar (and recabled it with a 5-pin Pro bias plug for some reason despite this allegedly being the original, normal-bias Lambda originally; perhaps the original cable went bad and he couldn't get a 6-pin replacement?), which could make the sound signature a bit darker overall. (Which isn't necessarily a bad thing when the Lambda line is generally considered to be bright...) One of these days, I'll have to go to a headphone meet where there's lots of other Lambda models present, including a completely stock normal-bias Lambda, to know exactly how that's changed the sound.


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I find the bass impact of my Lambdas just fine, though SineGen seems to reveal a rolloff below 40 Hz to the point where 30 Hz is inaudible at lower listening levels...but I can't fault the Lambdas for that because the AD700s and my SS-20s roll off similarly there, and I get the feeling that it's somewhere else in the chain. Could be the sound card settings.
> 
> Then again, I'm not looking for head-rattling amounts of bass that some may demand out of headphones (especially given some people's obsessions with lots of big, powerful, house/car-rattling subwoofers while the rest of their speakers remain unupgraded), so long as I can hear the notes, and that's where the Lambda delivers. It may not slam as hard, but that's to be expected from an electrostatic driver.
> 
> The only thing is that mine isn't stock; someone rebuilt the drivers with slightly thicker 2.5 micron mylar (and recabled it with a 5-pin Pro bias plug for some reason despite this allegedly being the original, normal-bias Lambda originally; perhaps the original cable went bad and he couldn't get a 6-pin replacement?), which could make the sound signature a bit darker overall. (Which isn't necessarily a bad thing when the Lambda line is generally considered to be bright...) One of these days, I'll have to go to a headphone meet where there's lots of other Lambda models present, including a completely stock normal-bias Lambda, to know exactly how that's changed the sound.


 


 Compare the Stax bass to the AD700 bass. I want significantly more bass than the AD700. I own it, so I know what the bass sounds like.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





sennheiserhd485 said:


> Compare the Stax bass to the AD700 bass. I want significantly more bass than the AD700. I own it, so I know what the bass sounds like.


 
   
  There's some more and it extends deeper, but I wouldn't call it significantly more bass. The SR-202 is kind of like the AD700, except it sounds good.


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> There's some more and it extends deeper, but I wouldn't call it significantly more bass. The SR-202 is kind of like the AD700, except it sounds good.


 


 I don't like the bass on the AD700. I think I will stick to the HD 600.
   
  I want the detail and clarity of a Stax headphone, but AD700 bass is a definite no-go.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





sennheiserhd485 said:


> I don't like the bass on the AD700. I think I will stick to the HD 600.
> 
> I want the detail and clarity of a Stax headphone, but AD700 bass is a definite no-go.


 
   
  Yeah if you didn't like the AD700 I wouldn't recommend the SR-202 either. And if you're just starting out, it's best to stick with a dynamic setup so you can change it up a little more easily.
   
  I'm afraid you need to go high end Stax if you wants the bass.


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Yeah if you didn't like the AD700 I wouldn't recommend the SR-202 either. And if you're just starting out, it's best to stick with a dynamic setup so you can change it up a little more easily.
> 
> I'm afraid you need to go high end Stax if you wants the bass.


 


 I am in college, it's going to kill my budget when I drop the $800 on the HD 600 setup.
   
  Maybe one day I can afford a SR-009.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> There's some more and it extends deeper, but I wouldn't call it significantly more bass. The SR-202 is kind of like the AD700, except it sounds good.


 

 That's not too far off from my experiences with the SR-Lambda vs. the AD700. If anything, it might be that I don't find it anemic at all because I'm already used to the AD700's sort of sound signature...but I also think that it seems less anemic on the Lambda because the treble isn't as noticeably louder, making it more balanced across the spectrum to my perception (at least until I hit the 8000 Hz and up range with SineGen). The end result is that the user can turn the volume up a bit and still get the same perceived sound level overall without piercingly loud highs and with more bass.
   
  But if that's not enough, I can always turn the bass knob up a bit on my receiver (which drives my SRD-7/SB)...but not too much, or clipping sets in with the sub-bass.
   
  I probably wouldn't have any idea as to how much bass people are looking for until I put on something like a set of Pro 900s or other famed basshead cans, though. All I know is that the sound is reasonably balanced as far as I can tell, and the clarity...that delicious clarity...


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> That's not too far off from my experiences with the SR-Lambda vs. the AD700. If anything, it might be that I don't find it anemic at all because I'm already used to the AD700's sort of sound signature...but I also think that it seems less anemic on the Lambda because the treble isn't as noticeably louder, making it more balanced across the spectrum to my perception (at least until I hit the 8000 Hz and up range with SineGen). The end result is that the user can turn the volume up a bit and still get the same perceived sound level overall without piercingly loud highs and with more bass.
> 
> But if that's not enough, I can always turn the bass knob up a bit on my receiver (which drives my SRD-7/SB)...but not too much, or clipping sets in with the sub-bass.
> 
> I probably wouldn't have any idea as to how much bass people are looking for until I put on something like a set of Pro 900s or other famed basshead cans, though. All I know is that the sound is reasonably balanced as far as I can tell, and the clarity...that delicious clarity...


 


  Thank you for the information. I am going to go ahead and buy the HD 600. I have to have decent bass because of my love for chill-out music.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





sennheiserhd485 said:


> Thank you for the information. I am going to go ahead and buy the HD 600. I have to have decent bass because of my love for chill-out music.


 

 I hope you enjoy it!
   
  It's not always easy to make headphone decisions...took a big gamble with the AD700s and an even bigger one with the Lambdas, but they do exactly what I expect and what I want them to in the first place. Not everyone is going to be looking for the same qualities, though, and that's why we have so many products to choose from.


----------



## sennheiserhd485

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I hope you enjoy it!
> 
> It's not always easy to make headphone decisions...took a big gamble with the AD700s and an even bigger one with the Lambdas, but they do exactly what I expect and what I want them to in the first place. Not everyone is going to be looking for the same qualities, though, and that's why we have so many products to choose from.


 


  Believe it or not, after just listening to my AD700s, I might have changed my mind again.
   
  It's such a hard decision!
   
  I wish that there was a perfect headphone.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





sennheiserhd485 said:


> I don't like the bass on the AD700. I think I will stick to the HD 600.
> 
> I want the detail and clarity of a Stax headphone, but AD700 bass is a definite no-go.


 

 The SR-003 are not bad for bass, they just lack a bit of bottom end but impact is very decent and they're good allrounders. Much more so than the AD900 I had. And they're uber transparent.


----------



## Beefy

FWIW, I feel that the AD900 and SR-Lambda offer a fairly similar overall tone, but the Lambda has been pumped up on steroids. Not necessarily bassier, but definitely better.


----------



## K3cT

You're doing it wrong anyway if you buy a Lambda and expect an impactful bass response. I currently have the SR-202 (precursor to the SR-207 which is part of the SRS2170 system) and the SRM-1/MK2 (much better amp than whatever is included in the SRS2170) and its bass performance is nowhere near what my LCD2 driven with the Beta22 is capable of. Compared to the HD600 though, I expect the SR-207 to have a faster bass, perhaps a touch more articulate but obviously not as punchy/impactful and rolls off earlier than the Sennheiser model. 
   
  Other than the slight mid-bass hump which can give an impression of a muddy sound, I thought that the HD600 is a very fine headphone with a spot-on tonality but it's a shame that we don't really talk about it nowadays. Driven well, it can give a similarly priced Lambda a run for its money.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> You're doing it wrong anyway if you buy a Lambda and expect an impactful bass response.


 

 I find impact is great with my Lambda. The overall bass _quantity_ is a fair bit less than my HD650, while Lambdas have better treble sparkle/energy.
   
  Basically, they are great complementary phones.


----------



## nick n

? ANY IDEA?I think my SR-5 's are going. They started to need a lot more juice over the last couple days. Then slowly faded equally in each side. I know it's not the adapter I have the SR-50 's in that to test it and they are normal volume level ( minus the preexisting slight channel imbalance )
   
  It started to get worse with even minor bass notes having a hollow knocking underwater bubbles type of sound. Like a sonar echo on the bass parts of the tunes..  This was just before they started their slow decline yesterday, with them almost completely fading out just now. Tried them again and they still have the hollow sound when volume gets raised and they can't hit much bass without rattling or the other. Yeah I realize they aren't built for bass but they are not very good at all anymore with higher volumes.
   
   
  I have left them plugged in for quite a while yesterday and today before using them.  Tried shorting out the plug ends a few times to see if it was a charge issue too.
  I popped them open just now and see there is a resistor right beside the driver in black shrinkwrap.   Could this be the problem? OR IS IT A CAP? I see a bit of doping where the lead is going into it.
  If it IS either a Resistor or Cap does anyone know their values to replace them?
   
  Anything else to look for i am new to Stax guts . I just looked through the driver into a light and the driver seems clear and clean on the one side I opened up.
   
  Any idea on these symptoms?
   
  I don't recall blasting them with a large sudden hit of tunes, but maybe I did( ? ) Would this have done it?
   
  I'll try running them again for a bit.
   
  maybe if I cryo treat them in the freezer....then do a boiling treatment then a garbage can treatment.


----------



## NamelessPFG

The SR-50 is an electret model. That means it doesn't need external bias, since the diaphragm is permanently charged. (However, the performance suffers compared to a true electrostatic driver.)
   
  You didn't say exactly which adapter you used...while I can't entirely rule out the SR-5s going bad, there's still the possibility of the driver unit's bias supply going bad somewhere.


----------



## nick n

Yeah  the SR-50's are electret but I figured it was enough to know if the adapter was going,_ but now that you mention it_ that was faulty reasoning wasn't it. The irritation got the best of critical thinking.  I have let the SR-5's run a bit more and so far it has cleared up, but it was definitely odd. So for now... but I should check out the guts of the adapter soon.
   The adapter is an SRD-6 .
   Is it worth opening them up and replacing some stuff in there and/or is there stuff that can be replaced/tweaked that will improve the output quality? Better wiring gauges, special caps, etc? I suppose a look can't hurt but I have to get a new resistance/capacitance meter before I do that.
   
  EDIT:
   
  Nope still doing it I will have to operate on the adapter.


----------



## milosz

Wow, there are so many different Stax models out there it seems I am always learning of a model I never knew existed....
   
THIS eBay sale is for a Stax SR84, which I'd never heard of, it's kind of a "junior lambda" - an electret model that looks like a smaller version of the Lambda series 'phones.  Seem to have a circular driver instead of the oval driver of the Lambda, but in a similar "box" type housing.
   
  Like I said, it's electret. I've never liked any electret headphones all that much- those that I've heard, anyway,  compared to biased ESL headphones-- but still it's always interesting to me to see yet another model I never heard of.


----------



## NamelessPFG

There's a question that's been on my mind lately...
   
  Are thinner diaphragms necessarily better?
   
  This is all because of this particular Lambda set that has introduced me to the Stax sound. Whoever rebuilt the drivers in these could have sought out some 2-micron-thick mylar, I'm sure, but instead he opted to go half a micron thicker, perhaps to change the sound signature. Meanwhile, Stax made a big selling point of thinner diaphragms in later models, though they had to backpedal a bit after the 1-micron-thick Signature models.


----------



## Currawong

With my SR-5s the membranes would stick to the inner cups, killing the bass. I had to take them apart and clean them to stop it happening.


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Hi!
   
  Has anyone tried sr-303s earpads with sr-507? How do they affect sound?


----------



## Electrostax

Aaaah... I´m back in audio-heaven.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  -Just traded my 507/323s for a 407/006tS kit!   
   
  Sound appreciation is a highly subjective matter, and what is praised by some as the absolute best, might not be so for all listeners. 
  My recent experience with the SR 507 driven by the solid state SRM 323s was a let down, I hoped things would improve when burned in a couple of hundred hours, but alas, the sound remained what I can only describe as disappointing when compared to the SR 407 / SRM 006tS.
   
  It may be that I simply like the harmonic distortions of the tubes, but the sound has so much more "soul" and "body" through the tubes, I feel it is at least as detailed, has more of a "3D" quality and conveys more of a sense that "you are actually there". When you close your eyes it is like the sphere of sound surrounding you extends further and deeper in every direction. The bass and lower mids in the 507 sounded thinner and more hollow than the 407, contrary to what i had expected. This might be due to the slightly stiffer padding of the 507 creating a little larger cavity around the ear and thus diffusing the energy a slight bit. The 507/323 were very good, no doubt, but more on the dry, analytical side, I found them a lot less amazing and entertaining than 407/006. A good analogy of the sound signatures would be analogue vs digital, where the 507/SS kit sounds "digital/hard/edgy/sterile" and the 407/Tubes sound "analogue/good vinyl/organic/vividly alive"
   
  I guess what I´m trying to say is that you absolutely have to actually listen to the high end kit in this league before buying, and not blindly go on reviews and opinions on forums. What is theoretically better or objectively measured to be "better" may not always sound better to you!...
  The differences are not night and day, they are very subtle, but enough to differentiate "okay high-end sound" and "woohaa! That´s amazing!"
   
  I am super happy with my "downgrade" and listening to music once again gives me goosebumps, and conveys real emotions much better than the SS amp could.
  This was a long post, but i won´t be posting much more for a while as there is so much music I have to listen to....


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





currawong said:


> With my SR-5s the membranes would stick to the inner cups, killing the bass. I had to take them apart and clean them to stop it happening.


 

 So assuming the guts in the box are ok and check out, I will have to open up the drivers... thanks for the info on that. I may shoot you a fast pm when I get around to it , maybe a pic or 2 to make sure I am not screwing something up.


----------



## Ra97oR

lonely_rider said:


> Hi!
> 
> Has anyone tried sr-303s earpads with sr-507? How do they affect sound?




I had the opposite, got a pair of 404Sig and swapped pads with 404LE/507 pads. The bass tighten up nicely and treble is even more airy but somehow the soundstage is slightly reduced but still acceptable.


----------



## sphinxvc

What the heck is going on with prices?
   
  I'm looking for SR-003s.  The older FS listings I'm seeing, or the references to old prices from places like Audiocubes, are as low as $120-$179. Now it's $299 from Audiocubes and being sold for $272 on Ebay.
   
  I was in the market for Lambda Pros for a month but I'm turned off by the high prices I'm getting quoted.  Again, old prices: around $200.  New prices: $350 up to $800.
   
  /rant.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> What the heck is going on with prices?
> 
> I'm looking for SR-003s.  The older FS listings I'm seeing, or the references to old prices from places like Audiocubes, are as low as $120-$179. Now it's $299 from Audiocubes and being sold for $272 on Ebay.
> 
> ...


 

 I asked myself the same thing some time back. eBay, AudiogoN, Head-Fi, it didn't matter where I went: getting a vintage Lambda for under $300 with a driver unit of any sort seemed impossible these days, now that people have apparently caught on to the value of vintage Stax. If anything, it was tough to get even old SR-X/MK3s, SR-5s, and SR-3s for less than that with a driver unit. This also makes it difficult for me to simply recommend people Stax setups in the $250-500 range.
   
  But then that one Head-Fi B/S/T listing showed up, and I knew that was my chance, just when I had all but given up on having a Lambda-series setup at under $300.
   
  A lot of this boils down to luck, I suppose, being in the right place at the right time while having that much money to spend. Not too long ago, before I got my Stax setup, there was a Lambda Pro here for $260 + shipping IIRC. No driver unit, though, so that would have been an extra expense.
   
  Simply put, don't give up and keep your eyes peeled. It may take a while, but you can get it at the price you want.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> What the heck is going on with prices?


 
  This might be partly due to the  declined value of the US$.
   
  Quote: 





> I'm looking for SR-003s.  The older FS listings I'm seeing, or the references to old prices from places like Audiocubes, are as low as $120-$179. Now it's $299 from Audiocubes and being sold for $272 on Ebay.
> 
> I was in the market for Lambda Pros for a month but I'm turned off by the high prices I'm getting quoted.  Again, old prices: around $200.  New prices: $350 up to $800.


 
  Really?
  Maybe I should sell some stuff .I have SR-003s I never use lying around stored in their box here and Lambda Pros as well.The latter get some listening time.Not much though since I do prefer the SR-4070s.
  I doubt I would get that much in Europe.
  I estimate $150 for the SR-003s.
  $350 for the Lambda Pros isn't that unrealistic.That's about €250 and close to the european market value.With a little patience you could get them for €200 here, but that's still $280, and after all importing from Europe is due to all those fees (currency exchange, international Paypal transfer fees, shipping costs, customs fees) and the inherent risk no option for those located in the US.
   
  On the other hand $350 is maybe 50 more than you'd have to pay for used Senn HD650s in good condition.
  From this point of view 350 doesn't seem that overprized.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> What the heck is going on with prices?
> 
> I'm looking for SR-003s.  The older FS listings I'm seeing, or the references to old prices from places like Audiocubes, are as low as $120-$179. Now it's $299 from Audiocubes and being sold for $272 on Ebay.
> 
> ...


 

 FWIW, I just received a new SR-003 I ordered off of ebay for $200.
  Horrible fit, decent sound.


----------



## dogears

It's fun to hunt for the tips that will work with your ears, and once you find them - it's musical bliss


----------



## anetode

Yeah, I've read over the Baby Stax appreciation thread and I can't find those Sony tips anywhere online. I'm going to hedge my bets with the large Comply T-200s.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





anetode said:


> FWIW, I just received a new SR-003 I ordered off of ebay for $200.
> Horrible fit, decent sound.


 
   
  Are you using the headband? If so, dont.
   
  I actually find the fit quite decent.


----------



## dogears

^I hope he has ears and head like yours?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





anetode said:


> FWIW, I just received a new SR-003 I ordered off of ebay for $200.
> Horrible fit, decent sound.


 

 I remember my first pair hurt my ears horribly after 20 minutes on.  Then I realized that one could simply bend the metal arc assembly (headband) to reduce the pressure from the tips so it no longer hurt.
   
  Part of the issue with old Stax is that they are getting rare.  I paid $175 for a used low bias  Sigma a few years ago.  Now you are lucky to get one for $500.00. Sigma pros are going up to $1,500.00.
   
  Even good SRXIII's are getting rare.  And by good I mean ones without holes in their diaphragms.   You can't get replacement drivers for these so they get expensive just for that reason.  SRXIII pros are virtually unobtainable.
   
  I expect the market for high demand old models will push them to sell for at least as much as much more recent used models such as 404's. As they get really rare you will be seeing collectors' prices on the oldies.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Are you using the headband? If so, dont.
> 
> I actually find the fit quite decent.


 
   
  I did for the first few hours, then when I pulled them off, the headband came off of one of them. With 99% of headphones that would be a bad thing, but here it was a relief. It doesn't really affect fit though, the huge ear-raping cones do.
   
  It's remarkable that they fit an electrostatic driver in an IEM form factor to begin with. I only wish they put more effort into the ergonomics.


----------



## dogears

A cheap ipod>inear adapter worked great for me:


----------



## anetode

Cool, I'm gonna give those a try too. Thanks


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Part of the issue with old Stax is that they are getting rare.  I paid $175 for a used low bias  Sigma a few years ago.  Now you are lucky to get one for $500.00. Sigma pros are going up to $1,500.00.


 

 Sigma Pros for upto $1500? Really? You might as well get a pair of the SR-007 mk1, unless they've also increased in price...


----------



## paulchiu

rejoining the Stax party after a decade....
  just ordered the SR009 and 007TA II, US 120V versions.
   
  question for you guys!
  burn in time?
  headphone stand?
   
  thanks!
   
  paul


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> rejoining the Stax party after a decade....
> just ordered the SR009 and 007TA II, US 120V versions.
> 
> question for you guys!
> ...


 

 Burn-in time, very little - Stax does not need to be burned-in like dynamics do.
   
  Headphone stand - if you've already got so many thousands in your system, you may as well pony up a little bit for a Stax stand. Otherwise get what you like. Woo Audio wouldn't be a bad choice, neither would Headphile.


----------



## paulchiu

thanks
  headphile stands look very nice

  
  Quote: 





ikarios said:


> Burn-in time, very little - Stax does not need to be burned-in like dynamics do.
> 
> Headphone stand - if you've already got so many thousands in your system, you may as well pony up a little bit for a Stax stand. Otherwise get what you like. Woo Audio wouldn't be a bad choice, neither would Headphile.


----------



## Michgelsen

These stands look good too: http://www.sieveking-sound.de/equipment/detail/id/16


----------



## paulchiu

is that solid wood?
  
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> These stands look good too: http://www.sieveking-sound.de/equipment/detail/id/16


----------



## Radio_head

No.  It is chocolate with a wood coating.


----------



## DaveBSC

The Audio Elegance stands are very nice, and only a few bucks more than the Stax. The cord holder is also a plus.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> rejoining the Stax party after a decade....
> just ordered the SR009 and 007TA II, US 120V versions.
> 
> question for you guys!
> burn in time?


 

 No.
  
  Quote: 





> headphone stand?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> paul


 
   
  One of the Stax ones of course!


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





cosmopragma said:


> This might be partly due to the  declined value of the US$.


 
   
  Currency rates haven't fluctuated enough to account for the wide variance in the final prices for some of the lower-end Stax models.  I've also noticed the prices are varying widely.
   
  Like others have recommended, I'd figure out your own budget and be patient for the right one to come across, unless you really want it now.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Can you tell me if the issues regarding the SR009s have been resolved?  I might be in the market for a pair soon.  I await hearing them at RMAF.  Thanks all.


----------



## padam

Yes it has been resolved, there was only one early batch affected.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

So, do you think Stax will come out with a special amp for the SR009?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> So, do you think Stax will come out with a special amp for the SR009?


 

 That's the rumor at least, although if they are doing one its still at the earliest stages. I wouldn't expect anything to actually hit retail for quite awhile yet. Personally, I hope they decide to go solid state, and make something like an SRM-737S. The uber high-end tube amp market is already well covered, while the solid state options are now pretty bare for those that are unwilling to go the DIY route.


----------



## Elysian

Is there a website that has a list of all the Stax amps, and maybe even short descriptions or a specs table?  I have a good sense of what's out there in the 3rd party community, but it's a bit challenging to figure out every amp Stax has out there, and what each one is optimized for.  The ones I hear of the most are the T1 and T2, SRM-323, and SRM-006/007 (as well as a lot of Ts and Is in front of the names), but I'm still not sure what pairs well with what, other than that the T1 is, I think, Stax's current TOTL amp?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Is there a website that has a list of all the Stax amps, and maybe even short descriptions or a specs table?  I have a good sense of what's out there in the 3rd party community, but it's a bit challenging to figure out every amp Stax has out there, and what each one is optimized for.  The ones I hear of the most are the T1 and T2, SRM-323, and SRM-006/007 (as well as a lot of Ts and Is in front of the names), but I'm still not sure what pairs well with what, other than that the T1 is, I think, Stax's current TOTL amp?


 

 Check this page out. "Stax products" is a bit misleading as Stax made a ton of oddball stuff over the years that isn't listed, but it's a pretty complete list of their current and discontinued headphones, amps, and transformer boxes. For the amps they list bias type, voltage swing, and whether they were tube or SS.
   
  The SRM-T1 was a midrange tube model. The current TOTL amps are the SRM-727II (SS), and the SRM-007Tii (tube). Only the 727 is really suited to drive the Omega 2, although the 323S can get the job done. The 007Tii despite being packaged with the O2 really doesn't have the voltage for it. As you can see in the list, the late, great SRM-T2 had nearly double the voltage swing of the other tube amps. That makes a difference.
   
  Supposedly the 009 is more efficient than the O2, and it may actually respond well with the 007Tii for those looking to add some warmth to the sound.
   
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Stax_products


----------



## Elysian

Awesome, thanks.  That was exactly what I was looking for.  I found an headphone/amp Wiki but they have pretty significant gaps in information.
   
  I was confused when you mentioned 737S because I couldn't find any information through Google, and hadn't run across a SRM-737S before.  At least from those high-level specs, I can see why the 323S and 727 series are endorsed for the O2s.  I wonder how much difference there is between the DIY T2 and the BHSE.  The only detailed design write-up I've seen was KG's original BH.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Awesome, thanks.  That was exactly what I was looking for.  I found an headphone/amp Wiki but they have pretty significant gaps in information.
> 
> I was confused when you mentioned 737S because I couldn't find any information through Google, and hadn't run across a SRM-737S before.  At least from those high-level specs, I can see why the 323S and 727 series are endorsed for the O2s.  I wonder how much difference there is between the DIY T2 and the BHSE.  The only detailed design write-up I've seen was KG's original BH.


 
   
  I actually made up the name 737S. It would just be the next logical progression if Stax were to do something like a $3-4K solid state flagship for the 009 (SRM-717 > 727II > 737S). As I understand it the BHSE was an attempt to match the SRM-T2 without actually knowing what the T2 circuit was, while the DIY T2 is exactly what it sounds like, literally an SRM-T2 that you make yourself in your own chassis, with the problems of the original corrected. Presumably a commercial DIY-T2 couldn't be produced because the design is Stax IP. Also, Spritzer has said that a commercial version would cost about as much as a Honda Accord.


----------



## Elysian

Ah, I see.  So the 00x series are the tubes and hybrids, while 2xx, 3xx, and 7xx are solid state.  It'd be nice if Stax did make a solid state flagship for the 007 or 009, since Justin's taken the KGSS out of production.  It seems like there are plenty of high-end tube models in between Headamp, Ray Samuels, and Woo, but not much in the way of solid state.  I've only heard stats on tubes, so I'd really be interested in hearing sometime how the SQ differs on solid state, and if it's comparable to the difference between solid state and tube for dynamics.
   
  I've seen people estimate the BOM for the DIY T2 alone is over $2k (_Edit: Remembered something way off  _), much less all the labor involved in learning the design and doing the work and testing.  That's the assessment I got about the BH, too, though it seems like Justin has done a bunch of unpublished(?) tweaks for the SE version of the BH.
   
  Unfortunately, as a number of people have pointed out earlier in the various Stax and 007/009 threads, there seem to only be a handful of people who own any two or three of the BHSE, WES, and A-10.  I've been reading speculation that the 009 doesn't seem to get as much as the 007 from the BHSE, so I'd like to learn what people think the optimal pairing for the 009 is.  I still haven't heard a BHSE yet, but the people I've spoken with who have say it takes on a significantly improved sound from the GES, 323, 007, and T1.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Unfortunately, as a number of people have pointed out earlier in the various Stax and 007/009 threads, there seem to only be a handful of people who own any two or three of the BHSE, WES, and A-10.  I've been reading speculation that the 009 doesn't seem to get as much as the 007 from the BHSE, so I'd like to learn what people think the optimal pairing for the 009 is.  I still haven't heard a BHSE yet, but the people I've spoken with who have say it takes on a significantly improved sound from the GES, 323, 007, and T1.


 

 The pecking order for driving the Omega 2 is probably something like this: 323II ~ 1MK2/PP < 323S < 717 < modded 727II ~ KGSS < KGSSHV < BHSE < DIYT2. I don't know as much about the 009's sound or what its voltage requirements are, so Im not sure how that might change things and whether the 340V tube amps would be suitable.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I've seen people estimate the BOM for the DIY T2 alone is over $20k, much less all the labor involved in learning the design and doing the work and testing.  That's the assessment I got about the BH, too, though it seems like Justin has done a bunch of unpublished(?) tweaks for the SE version of the BH.


 
   
  The DIY T2 doesn't cost $20k to build 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
   
  Done properly, I'd estimate maybe $4Kish all up, of course, it all depends on how crazy/cheap you are.
   
  There are a few people who have pretty much built the DIY T2 as their first amp project, it's not difficult, you just need a lot of patience (and deep pockets).


----------



## ujamerstand

$20k? We are talking about 4 T2s here, right?


----------



## livewire

I intend to have my T2 come in at no more than $3K in materials.
  Like my $800 KGSSHV, no fancy pots or cases.
  Being a "budget build" it should still sound stunning.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I intend to have my T2 come in at no more than $3K in materials.
> Like my $800 KGSSHV, no fancy pots or cases.
> Being a "budget build" it should still sound stunning.


 
   
  Mine will come in at about $2K, I'll be using a wooden box and kg's digital attenuator instead of the RK50. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Is this a challenge to become the ultimate cheapskate?!


----------



## Elysian

Hmm, I could be misremembering then.  Maybe the cost differential is for the different grades of components and chassis?
   
  That doesn't sound too bad then   I might give it a shot when my time frees up more, but I don't think work will let up anytime soon.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Mine will come in at about $2K, I'll be using a wooden box and kg's digital attenuator instead of the RK50.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Ha-Ha! You're on!!!
  Maybe, just maybe I could do $2K.
  No wood box for me, maybe plexi?
  Nah, just a couple of $50 Par-Metal aluminum crates.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Hmm, I could be misremembering then.  Maybe the cost differential is for the different grades of components and chassis?
> 
> That doesn't sound too bad then   I might give it a shot when my time frees up more, but I don't think work will let up anytime soon.


 

 I think it was Spritzer that mentioned something about the KG T2 possibly costing about the same as a small car,
  if it were to be built by a factory with product markup, supply chain profits, and all that.
  One would also need to consider the import duties they pay over there in Iceland for parts.
  Something like >100%. Yikes!


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Ha-Ha! You're on!!!
> Maybe, just maybe I could do $2K.
> No wood box for me, maybe plexi? Nah, just a couple of $50 Par-Metal's aluminum crates.


 

 I think you'll be able to pull it off more easily than I will be able to, because of shipping costs to Australia. I'm lucky enough to have Conrad heatsinks close by, but you'll save so much on transformer shipping.
   
  This one might be close. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  If push comes to shove, I'll have to build a two storey wood box and save some dosh on the amphenol connectors.


----------



## livewire

No umbilicals? Blasphemy!


----------



## milosz

The casework makes up a significant part of a DIY T2 cost.  I've been quoted $1,500~$1,800 to duplicate Kevin Gilmore's chassis.
   
  It's a real challenge to come up with something visually striking, technically effective and not cost any more than necessary.
   
  Using wood is an attractive alternative, due to it's ease in working and finishing compared to metal. Really nice exotic hardwood can be had and finished to great beauty. However, wood panels end up being considerably thicker than metal so the finished chassis has a potential to be quite bulky. The circuit boards are large to begin with, so a large chassis is a must; add to this the extra thickness of wood panels and you might end up building a small armoire  rather than an amp.
   
  Also, since building in wood is somewhat easier.... there is an extra challenge in trying to make pretty casework out of metal for the DIY T2.
   
  But wait.... I was told it's forbidden to discuss the DIY T2 on this forum, for secret reasons.....


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Using wood is an attractive alternative, due to it's ease in working and finishing compared to metal. Really nice exotic hardwood can be had and finished to great beauty. However, wood panels end up being considerably thicker than metal so the finished chassis has a potential to be quite bulky. The circuit boards are large to begin with, so a large chassis is a must; add to the this the extra thickness of wood panels and you might end up building a small armoire  rather than an amp.
> 
> Also, since building in wood is somewhat easier.... there is an extra challenge in trying to make pretty casework out of metal for the DIY T2.
> 
> But wait.... I was told it's forbidden to discuss the DIY T2 on this forum, for secret reasons.....


 
   
  The DIY T2 is expensive enough as it is, I don't have the dough to make it look pretty.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I can't believe you're actually concerned about the size of the DIY T2, it's going to be a monster no matter what casework you use. The bare board alone is already longer than my rack. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Obviously, you aren't on nodding terms with the Stax Mafia, otherwise, you'd know the difference between discussing the DIY T2, and _discussing _the DIY T2.


----------



## milosz

DIY T-2
  Giant armoire mod


----------



## spekkio

Just got my hands on my Stax SR-507 and SRM-1/MK2 combo today. I can't believe there's something out there clearer than the HD800, but here I am.


----------



## livewire

Awesome! Aint it?


----------



## sphinxvc

You guys have me hyped for some Stax.  The first time I heard Stax they were Lambda Pros out of an SRM-1/MK2 and the clarity was unbelievable.  The source was a lowly uDAC2 but the setup was just as resolving as HD800s, just as you found Spekkio.
   
  I'm on some budgetary constraints at the moment so I'm looking for something lowly to pair with my 252S that I have had for a month now with no HPs.
   
  Last night I happily stumbled upon Kuboten.com
   
  You can buy from Japanese retailers for a $10+8% fee + shipping or Japanese auctions at a $10+10% fee.
   
  Prices are much more reasonable out there, Stax gear is much more frequent too.
   
  I'm finding Lambda Pros at reasonable prices and the SR-003 which retails for about $270-300 at ebay or Audiocubes for $170 on Japanese e-tailer sites.
   
  Woot.


----------



## sphinxvc

Another thought: one thing is for sure, low-end sources are a lot more resolving than dynamics show them to be.  The uDAC2 + Stax Lambda rig I heard months ago was more resolving than the WM8741-based DAC I had from Audio-GD paired with my HD650s or K701s at the time.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *sphinxvc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Last night I happily stumbled upon Kuboten.com
> 
> ...


 

 Wow, that's an amazing site!  The Stax gear, even new, looks to be 20-40% cheaper than what I see on Ebay and other US sites.
   
  Is the SR507 the direct step down from the SR007?  I've read some people say they prefer piano and classical on the Lambdas than the SR007 so I've been getting curious enough to possibly pick up a pair if the price is right.


----------



## K3cT

Lambdas have a very different sound than the Omegas for sure. The O2 (both MK1 and MK2) at least is closer to the Audez'e LCD2, warm-ish with a smaller soundstage and less air. A Lambda generally is brighter, more forward-sounding, airier with a larger soundstage but can be diffuse with its presentation and its ability to render and convey different textures is not as good as the O2. Bass is another definite difference too with the O2 having a much better bass impact, extension and texture. 
   
  As to whether it's a step-down, in my opinion yes very much. I had auditioned both the 404LE and O2 plugged into the KGSS simultaneously and really, there is no comparison. The O2 is just... better. Granted I haven't heard the 507 but I have pretty much heard all the other older Lambdas out there ranging from the old Lambda Pro to the top-tier 404LE and I seriously doubt the 507 is going to be a radical departure from the normal sound signature of a Lambda. 
   
  To the other poster saying a Lambda has a better transparency than the HD800 then yes, I do agree. Heck even the LCD2 in a way is more transparent than the HD800 in how clean and grain-less it sounds (I think you can't entirely get rid of this grain from a dynamic headphone). I currently have the ole' and trusted SR-202 and SRM-1/MK2 and it's nice to have as a change of pace from the LCD2. My only problem is it's not as relaxing as the LCD2/Beta22 combo so I can't listen to it for prolonged time.


----------



## n3rdling

Kuboten was having trouble getting orders out, I'm not sure if they are still having problems or not.  Currawong might know best.


----------



## svyr

> and I seriously doubt the 507 is going to be a radical departure from the normal sound signature of a Lambda. 

it is.

>Kuboten was having trouble getting orders out, I'm not sure if they are still having problems or not. Currawong might know best.

pricejapan is also an option


----------



## sphinxvc

PriceJapan does not mess with auctions or used goods unfortunately.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Lambdas have a very different sound than the Omegas for sure. The O2 (both MK1 and MK2) at least is closer to the Audez'e LCD2, warm-ish with a smaller soundstage and less air. A Lambda generally is brighter, more forward-sounding, airier with a larger soundstage but can be diffuse with its presentation and its ability to render and convey different textures is not as good as the O2. Bass is another definite difference too with the O2 having a much better bass impact, extension and texture.
> 
> As to whether it's a step-down, in my opinion yes very much. I had auditioned both the 404LE and O2 plugged into the KGSS simultaneously and really, there is no comparison. The O2 is just... better. Granted I haven't heard the 507 but I have pretty much heard all the other older Lambdas out there ranging from the old Lambda Pro to the top-tier 404LE and I seriously doubt the 507 is going to be a radical departure from the normal sound signature of a Lambda.


 

 Thanks for the very detailed review of how the 404LE performs compared to the O2.  I've been curious about the Lambdas lately, and have been reading up on those, the Sigmas, and the original Omegas.  I'm quite happy with my SR007A but have been curious what the rest of the Stax line-up has to offer.  I read the other thread talking about the SR003 but the comments were less than positive.
   
  Do you feel the Lambdas generally excel with a particular type of music?  I guess it's pretty straightforward since you said the bass impact, extension, and texture are inferior on the Lambdas.  I as thinking about the Lambdas for something like Keith Jarrett or Hiromi Uehara as I've heard the Lambdas do very well representing some classical instruments, but probably aren't a great choice for metal/rock/pop.  Given what the Lambdas strengths are, I wonder how the SR009 compares directly to the Lambdas' strengths and weaknesses.  I may end up ordering a SR009 in the next few months and pass the SR007A off, though I'm a bit concerned about what some people have said about the SR009 pairing with metal.


----------



## jaycalgary

I started Stax with a Lambda pro and was very happy with it at the time. Then I bought a Lambda Signature and was happier was more like a Thoroughbred. So I bought another Lambda Signature that was in mint condition but it sounded dull later saw there was a pinhole in the dust cover that probably was the problem. Then I bought a 407 but to me I think the driver casing colors the sound. Then I moved on to the O2/Mk1 and discovered bass but so far am not too excited about the sound. Strangely I have a right ear that can hear and feel the bass impact but the left ear does not. Hoping it will be just wax build up. The whole point of the story is last week I bought another pair of Lambda Signatures that look in really good shape from Ebay for a good price. The older Lambdas fit great compared to the new ones and a pair of good working Lambda Signatures are great. I still am going to move forward with the O2's


----------



## n3rdling

The old Lambda/Lambda Sig are still my favorite Lambdas of the ones I've listened to.


----------



## svyr

sphinxvc said:


> PriceJapan does not mess with auctions or used goods unfortunately.




oh wow. so the other site opens people to a presumably large number of used stax gear out of JP?


----------



## sphinxvc

basically.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





svyr said:


> oh wow. so the other site opens people to a presumably large number of used stax gear out of JP?


 

 You can use KuboTEN/Craig as a proxy to access Yahoo Auctions JP.


----------



## sphinxvc

I also stumbled on this site tonight, where you can bidsnipe Yahoo Japan auctions.
   
  http://www.japonicamarket.com/
   
  Big fan of bidsniping.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> I also stumbled on this site tonight, where you can bidsnipe Yahoo Japan auctions.
> 
> http://www.japonicamarket.com/
> 
> Big fan of bidsniping.


 

 Interesting site.  I'd suggest using Kuboten, as it is run by a Head-Fi member, Lobstersan if you want someone who is more familiar with headphones and audio gear.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The old Lambda/Lambda Sig are still my favorite Lambdas of the ones I've listened to.


 

 When you say "old Lambda", do you mean the original series (mostly identified by the distinct original headband prior to the revised headband used on the Nova series and up until SR-507; look at the headband adjustment sliders) in all its flavors (Normal bias/Pro bias/Signature)?
   
  From what I've read, the original Lambda series is generally regarded as more "musical" sounding, whatever that means, while the Nova series onward improved accuracy and extension at the cost of that "musicality". Or maybe that's just the normal-bias Lambda compared to even the Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature.
   
  *flips a few pages back* You people are talking about being cheapskates on DIY T2 amp projects only costing about US$2,000, when most people wouldn't even spend a tenth of that on their whole headphone setup (or can't afford to)?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> *flips a few pages back* You people are talking about being cheapskates on DIY T2 amp projects only costing about US$2,000, when most people wouldn't even spend a tenth of that on their whole headphone setup (or can't afford to)?


 

 That's because we are "audiofools"
  Besides, look where you are my nameless friend.
_"High-end Audio Forum"_ = bleeding money, bleeding ears.


----------



## livewire

BTW, I'd love to have the dosh to dump on a BHSE & SR-009 combo.
  $10 to $11K should do the trick. But I can't do it.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Why? Because I am not rich. That is the "why" in building an "el cheapo" T2.
  If I spend a little at a time on parts over the period of a year,
  I will eventually have the world's finest stat-amp. And I loves me Stax!


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> When you say "old Lambda", do you mean the original series (mostly identified by the distinct original headband prior to the revised headband used on the Nova series and up until SR-507; look at the headband adjustment sliders) in all its flavors (Normal bias/Pro bias/Signature)?


 

  Yep
  Quote: 





> From what I've read, the original Lambda series is generally regarded as more "musical" sounding, whatever that means, while the Nova series onward improved accuracy and extension at the cost of that "musicality". Or maybe that's just the normal-bias Lambda compared to even the Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature.


 
  I think that's a pretty good way to put it.

   
  livewire are you going to the Orange County meet?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> livewire are you going to the Orange County meet?


 


  You know, I have gave it a lot of thought because it's not that far for me to travel.
  Actually I have agonized over it, but have remained quiet in that thread.
  Reason(s) being, that is a work day for me, I do think that i could get it off.
  Secondly, if I go I may only bring my listening CD and my cocobolo Grados.
   
  At the moment, both of my Stax rigs are trashed. Burnt out as in fried transistors.
  How do I do it? I dont know. Maybe I listen too much?
  Lately I am on a Grado & Gilmore Lite kick, revisting dynamics.
  I will never give up the stats though. I have climbed the mountain and found the holy grail.
   
  I would definitely go if I could get guarenteed headtime (~10 or 15 min) with your SR-009's.
  Will you be bringing them?


----------



## n3rdling

Yep   purrin has a set as well but I'm not sure if he is planning to bring them.  
   
  Sucks that you have fried transistors   Which ones?


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> *flips a few pages back* You people are talking about being cheapskates on DIY T2 amp projects only costing about US$2,000, when most people wouldn't even spend a tenth of that on their whole headphone setup (or can't afford to)?


 
  Are you sure you are aware where you are posting your little rant?
  This is the "High-end Audio Forum" where in fact $2000 isn't considered to be overly expensive.
  It's just a niche not even mainly populated by rich snobs but by middle class afficionados that often simply do have different priorities than the average Joe.
  I don't know what your car did cost but probably way more than $2000.
  I don't even own a car , admittedly because it's not really necessary for someone like me living quite central in an european sprawl with good public transportation and the option to borrow a car from relatives for occasional trips to the sea etc.
  I do own audio gear worth $20000 instead.
  To each his own I guess .......


----------



## ujamerstand

Sucks to hear what happened to your amp again, Jim.  Which transistors were burnt out?


----------



## milosz

I think I am going to start a thread in this High-End forum titled "Enough is enough" -  I can see there is a point in MY OWN hifi hobby where I am spending too much money, collecting too much stuff... it's a little like shop-a-holism mixed in with a little hoarding.
   
  Don't get me wrong- I LOVE the gear, and in some ways the only way to learn about / find what you like best is to go out and buy some stuff and live with it a while. But it tends to pile up.   Really,  there COMES A POINT.....
   
  See what I mean?


----------



## spekkio

It's ok. If burglars enter your house they won't even know where the real $$$ is. They'll just think you're a headphone maniac and continue searching for the hidden gold bars somewhere.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks for the very detailed review of how the 404LE performs compared to the O2.  I've been curious about the Lambdas lately, and have been reading up on those, the Sigmas, and the original Omegas.  I'm quite happy with my SR007A but have been curious what the rest of the Stax line-up has to offer.  I read the other thread talking about the SR003 but the comments were less than positive.
> 
> Do you feel the Lambdas generally excel with a particular type of music?  I guess it's pretty straightforward since you said the bass impact, extension, and texture are inferior on the Lambdas.  I as thinking about the Lambdas for something like Keith Jarrett or Hiromi Uehara as I've heard the Lambdas do very well representing some classical instruments, but probably aren't a great choice for metal/rock/pop.  Given what the Lambdas strengths are, I wonder how the SR009 compares directly to the Lambdas' strengths and weaknesses.  I may end up ordering a SR009 in the next few months and pass the SR007A off, though I'm a bit concerned about what some people have said about the SR009 pairing with metal.


 

  
  I like my SR-202 on instrumental jazz the best. Stuff like Stan Get, David Benoit and the likes. It also does pretty well on acoustics. 
   
  A perfect electrostats for me is something that combines the airiness, tonality and highs (minus the upper mid glare) of a Lambda with everything else from an O2. Perhaps the SR-009 is the answer to that.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





ujamerstand said:


> Sucks to hear what happened to your amp again, Jim.  Which transistors were burnt out?


 


  
  Actually two amps.
   
  You may remember that the SumR trafo in my KGSSHV fried a few months back.
  Upon advice from Frank Cooter I shoehorned a behemoth in there,
  but it didnt have the 30 volt tap for the first stage +/- 15volt rails.
  For that I used a surplus Sola power brick, same type that KG used in his original KGSS.
  A few weeks later that shorted out internally and took out some of the sand in the input stage(s).
  I havent finished assessing the damage yet. I just got depressed and threw it up on the shelf and...
   
  I dusted off the trusty little SRM-252II Stax energizer box and put it back into service driving my Lambdas.
  I really like the sound of this little box. My only complaint is that it doesnt have the power to drive the cans
  to crazy loud volume levels like the KGSSHV can. It tops out at an SPL of ~85 to 90 dB.
  I crave 95 to 105dB for pounding rock music. (albeit for only an hour at a time)
  That being said, I normally have the SRM-252 cranked almost all the way up almost all of the time.
  It doesnt clip until that last little nudge of the volume knob.
  The output transistors on this box are not heatsinked, so I guess that I nuked them while running it at full tilt
  all of the time. They are 2SC4572, and like most of the sand used in stat amps, they are also relatively rare.
  UTSource has them, but we all know that they cannot be trusted for EOL sand. Too much fake stuff out there.
  So what am I gonna do? Prolly resurrect the KGSSHV, not sure how long it will take to find the parts.
  Since UTsource is the only game in town for the Stax parts, guess I'll try them too for the SRM-252 sand.
   
  At least I got the Koss stats and my new Grados to listen to in the meantime...


----------



## spritzer

Too busy to check the datasheet but most of these 2SC transistors are interchangeable.  Never used the 2SC4572 but the 2SC5466 should be compatible and so would be the 2SC3675 and even the 2SC4686A.  Just compare the datasheets and see if anything stands out.


----------



## sphinxvc

Are there SR-Lambdas out there (non Professional) with 5-pin connectors?  Wondering if the Professional tag and Pro bias may not be the same thing?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





cosmopragma said:


> Are you sure you are aware where you are posting your little rant?
> This is the "High-end Audio Forum" where in fact $2000 isn't considered to be overly expensive.
> It's just a niche not even mainly populated by rich snobs but by middle class afficionados that often simply do have different priorities than the average Joe.
> I don't know what your car did cost but probably way more than $2000.
> ...


 

 I wouldn't call it a rant, just a rather amusing observation that $2,000 is quite cheap when talking about this stuff (which it is when you factor in stuff like SR-009 + BHSE or Orpheus setups that pass the $10,000 mark). I didn't intend for it to have a condescending tone or anything as if the cheapskates are in the right; if anything, I meant it lightheartedly, and those people may not know what they're missing and continue to live in ignorance. (The whole reason I'm pursuing better audio is to know what my ears have been missing this whole time, and to better enlighten myself.)
   
  By the way, I don't own a car either, even though I'd want one. Too expensive, and I can still get to where I need to go. (If I had just $2,000, I'd already be shopping around for used cars when I could keep from shopping for new computer parts or other gaming equipment. Money's tight on my end, so I HAVE to go for the best bang for the buck.)
   
  It's all about what makes you happy in the end. Does that $20,000 audio setup make you _want_ to listen to music in its presence, just as my mere $250 Lambda + SRD-7/SB setup does for me? Then it's justified for you, even if most people would balk at the pricetag. You're not wrong for having it.
   
  Sorry for any misunderstandings. (If only text could convey tone of voice...)
   
  Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Are there SR-Lambdas out there (non Professional) with 5-pin connectors? Wondering if the Professional tag and Pro bias may not be the same thing?


 
   
  I'm pretty sure that the "Professional" is meant to indicate Pro bias, and the original SR-Lambda with normal bias should have 6 pins.
   
  But this alleged normal bias set has only 5 pins...given its history, though, I'd say that whoever rebuilt the drivers also replaced the cable and couldn't find a 6-pin one. When you look at the pinouts on the amp side, the two bias pins are connected anyway, so I can see how this would work.


----------



## paulchiu

...they arrived....
  Martha, hold all calls....
   
  much much lighter than i thought.


----------



## livewire

*Cha-Ching !!!*


----------



## Elysian

Going to have an unproductive Monday?


----------



## purrin

Yeah, tell me about it... I should be working right now instead of listening and lurking here.


----------



## NamelessPFG

You can bet everyone's going to want to hear your impressions on those now, as if new toy syndrome wasn't hurting productivity enough...


----------



## paulchiu

i didn't do the rip and tear but actually tried to remove the 30+ loose pieces of scotch tapes.  STAX should pack like Apple in this regards, a large bag for everything.....
   
  anyway, the 009 is simply gorgeous even without the sound.
  i was afraid of tightness for my size 8 but it fit almost perfectly.  It is so light compared with LCD-2, a tad lighter versus ED10 and HD800.  Still, the Grado GS1000i and PS1000 are the lightest cans on my head.
   
  i am letting the SRM007Ta II run for a day before listen....
   
  the box that came with the 009 is light as cardboard.  the LCD-2 wood box feels and looks a lot more expensive.
   
  BTW, my cords is somewhat twisted at the drivers, is this normal.
  i understand they had to twist it for packing into the box.
   
  cheers
   
  paul


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> i was afraid of tightness for my size 8 but it fit almost perfectly.  It is so light compared with LCD-2, a tad lighter versus ED10 and HD800.  Still, the Grado GS1000i and PS1000 are the lightest cans on my head.


 
   
  Wow I'm surprised!
   
  The SR-009 ain't no lightweight at 454g w/o cable. The HD800 clock in at 330g and the LCD-2 come in at about 550g.
  
  Well, that's Stax for you.....


----------



## paulchiu

you're right.  
   
  on paper, it is much heavier than the HD800, but its just so gentle on my ears and cheeks. the top band also distribute pressure on my uppers better than the Senny.  Over time, the HD800 did began to melt into nothingness, but i always knew they were there.
   
  now i wonder if what some asserted that the SR-009 can 'disappear' during auditions maybe true.
   

  
  Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Wow I'm surprised!
> 
> The SR-009 ain't no lightweight at 454g w/o cable. The HD800 clock in at 330g and the LCD-2 come in at about 550g.
> 
> Well, that's Stax for you.....


----------



## spritzer

The SR-009 is indeed the most comfortable headphone I've ever used.  Same would be true about the SR-Omega if they had bothered to use real leather for the earpads.


----------



## livewire

*@ Spritzer,*
   
  Thanks for the tip on the Stax sand.
  Looking at the datasheets, the Toshiba 2SC5466 looks like a viable replacement
  for the Sanyo 2SC4572. They both have the same specs/ratings.
  One thing, these are just as rare as the former.
   
  I also checked the 2SC3675, I am aware this is a favorite of yours and KG for stat amp designs.
  It is rated for substatially more power and the specs vary substantially.
*My question is: if I use the 2SC3675 sand instead will I also need to change the existing values for the biasing resistors?*
  If so, that is a little out of my league. (I aint no design engineer)
   
  BTW, these are somewhat rare but readily available and I have a few on hand for my T2 build.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SR-009 is indeed the most comfortable headphone I've ever used.  Same would be true about the SR-Omega if they had bothered to use real leather for the earpads.


 


  There is more to comfort than weight, of course.  As Spritzer points out the earpad material is important too. Real leather breathes somewhat, and is typically more supple than pleather. I like velour / alcantara / microfiber better than leather, but leather is better than pleather, for sure. Some people don't like velour, but for me leather is too sweaty.
   
  The other factors contributing to comfort are the  yoke design- how well it distributes mass on the head, and also the amount of "clamping" force and how that force is distributed onto the ears  and head. My experience is big soft around-the-ear earpads are the most comfortable, the big size of such pads distributes the clamping force over a large area, the large diameter of the earpads keeps the headphones from squeezing the pinnae, and the softness of the earpads allows a seal to form to the uneven contact area.
   
  I have to say, for such heavy headphones, the LCD-2's  do a really good job- the yoke is simple and kind of cottage-industrial compared to something like the HD800, yet it works pretty darn well. Considering that the LCD-2's are the first commercial effort from Audeze, you have to give them their props for doing a good job and getting it right.  
   
  My Lambda signatures are more comfortable than the LCD-2's, but would be better still with real leather, Spritzer is sure right about that.
   
  HOWEVER  my most comfortable phones are my Beyer DT-880's, these things are the best I have for comfort.
   
  My SR-007's are OK, but it's like they are designed for smaller pinnae- they don't quite go completely around my ears, they end up kind of squeezing my ears from around their circumference- not pressing so much ON my ears, but squeezing around my ears.


----------



## yawg

Hi,
   
  Stax used to have a good site with all the historical stuff but they erased it. So Stax was bought from another big company and isn't the family enterprise (Samurai honour style) any more but focused on maximum profit now ...
   
  The new "historic" site only shows the earspeaker stuff. But they made extreme amps and other great hi-end audio gear. I used to drive my Martin Logan CLS IIz with their heritage class A 100W monoblocs, they were absolutely awesome. And I used their CA-X preamp and loved it. But I can't find any info on that stuff anymore. What happened?
   
  Where can I get the sheepskin earpads? I own an older Lambda Sig. with worn-out pads and want to get the "real thing". Any ideas?
   
  Happy listening, Jörg.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Hi,
> 
> Stax used to have a good site with all the historical stuff but they erased it. So Stax was bought from another big company and isn't the family enterprise (Samurai honour style) any more but focused on maximum profit now ...
> 
> ...


 


  The original Stax went broke in 1995, so it's not surprising that new Stax dumped the loss making wayyyyyyy esoteric stuff and went back to being a more focussed enterprise. A consortium of engineers and workers from the original Stax company bought them out and appears to have got the company back on track. I have some older Stax promotional booklets (1995 and 1990) that could be scanned if you are interested.


----------



## manaox2

I pray for the best for STAX. They were and may very well still be ahead of their time in headphone technology.


----------



## jjinh

yawg said:


> Where can I get the sheepskin earpads? I own an older Lambda Sig. with worn-out pads and want to get the "real thing". Any ideas?




eBay, or any of the shops that sell Stax gear.




manaox2 said:


> I pray for the best for STAX. They were and may very well still be ahead of their time in headphone technology.




I'm sure they're doing fine now.


----------



## K3cT

Still waiting for the day when they release a new energizer that offers high price/performance ratio like the Schiit Lyr.


----------



## pabbi1

Price and performance are mutually exclusive WRT electrostatic amps. It is curious that anyone could expect that super high voltage amps (400v rails) could (or even should) be produced for a cost that a 28v rail amp can.
   
  I find it pretty reasonable that a $350 - $1000 dynamic amp correlates to a $2500 - $5000 electrostatic amp, and that a $2500 - $5000 electrostatic amp correlates well to electrostatic phones that cost $2500 - $5000.
   
  To expect a $350 amp to drive $5000 headphones is unreasonable.


----------



## Audiogalore

I am curious if there enough difference in sound quality between the sr-303/307 and the sr-507 to justify the investment.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





audiogalore said:


> I am curious if there enough difference in sound quality between the sr-303/307 and the sr-507 to justify the investment.


 


  That depends on the value the listener puts on the sonic differences.  Also, to some people $1,000 is pocket change and to others it's a month's pay.  It's all relative, and subjective.


----------



## DaveBSC

Question - are the brown O2 Mk1 pads and black O2 Mk2 pads actually built differently, or do they just use different materials? I'm planning to get a pair for the Thunderpants, but I'm not sure if one is supposed to be better than the other.


----------



## n3rdling

I'm pretty sure they're built the same but just use different material.  I'd recommend the latter though as they are higher quality and are said to get less sweaty during the summer.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





pabbi1 said:


> Price and performance are mutually exclusive WRT electrostatic amps. It is curious that anyone could expect that super high voltage amps (400v rails) could (or even should) be produced for a cost that a 28v rail amp can.
> 
> I find it pretty reasonable that a $350 - $1000 dynamic amp correlates to a $2500 - $5000 electrostatic amp, and that a $2500 - $5000 electrostatic amp correlates well to electrostatic phones that cost $2500 - $5000.
> 
> To expect a $350 amp to drive $5000 headphones is unreasonable.


 

  
  It doesn't have to be necessarily as "cheap" as the Lyr but say, something in the $750 - $1250 range that at least fulfills the electrical requirements to drive an Omega and requires no further modding.


----------



## DaveBSC

k3ct said:


> It doesn't have to be necessarily as "cheap" as the Lyr but say, something in the $750 - $1250 range that at least fulfills the electrical requirements to drive an Omega and requires no further modding.




The SRM-323S basically fulfills that criteria. It's affordable, and there's enough voltage on tap to drive the O2 at least reasonably well. The O2 was a flagship can before the 009, and you can't expect to get the maximum possible performance out of a flagship with an entry level amplifier. 

The 323S gets you in the door though, more than any other Stax amp short of a used SRM-717.


----------



## K3cT

Yeah, I think along with my SRM-1/MK2, the SRM-323 is pretty bad-ass but what I was getting at is something that is in between the 717/modded 727 and KGSS performance-wise but priced lower than $1500. Perhaps I was asking for too much from Stax?


----------



## DaveBSC

k3ct said:


> Yeah, I think along with my SRM-1/MK2, the SRM-323 is pretty bad-ass but what I was getting at is something that is in between the 717/modded 727 and KGSS performance-wise but priced lower than $1500. Perhaps I was asking for too much from Stax?




I guess I could see room for an amp in there, though Stax would likely point you to the SRM-006TS if you were using the SR-507 or below. Rather than try to plug the gap between the 323S and the 727II, I would prefer them to fill in the huge void between the 727II/007TII and the $5K+ 3rd party tube amps. Say, something around $3,000 or so. A commercial KGSSHV could take that spot, but who knows when that might happen.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I would prefer them to fill in the huge void between the 727II/007TII and the $5K+ 3rd party tube amps. Say, something around $3,000 or so. A commercial KGSSHV could take that spot, but who knows when that might happen.


 

 x2


----------



## spritzer

If you want to compare dynamic amps to electrostatic units then the fist step is to dismiss all single ended amps as all Stax amps are fully balanced from input to output.  The SRM-323S even has spots on the PCB to add a fully balanced input.  Next step would be to look at the design and see what you are really getting for your money with the Stax stuff.  Almost all are fully discrete, DC-coupled, ultra low distortion units (only recent exception is the SRM-300/310) which is something very few dynamic amps can match, even when money is no object.  Take this into account and the Stax amps are a bleeding bargain (how much is a balanced Dynalo?) and technically far superior to the dynamic camp.
   
  As for Stax deleting all the historical stuff on their site, it was there 3 minutes ago... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Question - are the brown O2 Mk1 pads and black O2 Mk2 pads actually built differently, or do they just use different materials? I'm planning to get a pair for the Thunderpants, but I'm not sure if one is supposed to be better than the other.


 

 They are a bit different and there is a clear audible difference.


----------



## Amarphael

Are these mk1 pads? By the the wrinkles on them i'm guessing they are...
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390349983621&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:US:1123


----------



## DaveBSC

amarphael said:


> Are these mk1 pads? By the the wrinkles on them i'm guessing they are...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390349983621&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:US:1123




Yeah, that's what I was assuming as well. Am I right in thinking that Japanese Mk1s like mine are the only O2s in champagne color with brown pads? The only Mk2s Ive seen have been silver or black with black pads.


----------



## milosz

Aren't the O2 Mk 2 pads a little thicker?  I thought they wanted a little large enclosed volume in the ear cavity to give a little more midbass, so they made the earpads a  little thicker.
   
  Did I read this someplace? Seems like I did, but....


----------



## spekkio

Hello fellow Stax users,
   
  I've had my SR-507 and SRM-1/Mk2 system for a few days now, and the sound is great, but...
 I find that if I turn up the volume where the dynamics are maximized (bass comes out, soundstage widens, notes become clearer), my ears start to hurt after a while. I doubt it's super loud because it's only about 10.5 oclock on the dial with an NFB-3 dac attached. But if I turn the system too soft my enjoyment of the system dips because I can barely hear anything and everything sounds one-note. Was wondering if there's any solution for this? Would an amp upgrade help low-level listening details / dynamics?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> Hello fellow Stax users,
> 
> I've had my SR-507 and SRM-1/Mk2 system for a few days now, and the sound is great, but...I find that if I turn up the volume where the dynamics are maximized (bass comes out, soundstage widens, notes become clearer), my ears start to hurt after a while. I doubt it's super loud because it's only about 10.5 oclock on the dial with an NFB-3 dac attached. But if I turn the system too soft my enjoyment of the system dips because I can barely hear anything and everything sounds one-note. Was wondering if there's any solution for this? Would an amp upgrade help low-level listening details / dynamics?
> 
> Thanks!


 
   
  If it hurts, at some frequency (or at many frequencies-)  it is too loud for your ears.  Your ears are trying to tell you something.  
   
  Measure the SPL.  Buy a used Radio Shack sound level meter off eBay, they are accurate enough for this sort of thing. You can get one for about $25.  
   
  Some times headphones can fool us re: loudness because they are so low in distortion.  The only way to know how loud it is, is to measure it.
   
  And forget about "I doubt it is super loud  because the dial is set to 10.5 o'clock" - volume knob positions are meaningless. You **MUST** make a measurement to know how loud it really is.
   
  Note that anything over 90 dB for more than a few hours per day will cause PERMANENT HEARING LOSS.   Hearing damage of this type does not heal- what's happening is the hair cells in your cochlea, inside your inner ear,  are being killed by the sound. Once they are dead, they don't come back.  Ever.  Keep that in mind.


----------



## spekkio

Thanks milosz. I'll go get an SPL meter and get the headphones measured. In the meantime, I've turned it down to a very low level (much lower than normal) and I find the ears adapting.


----------



## paulchiu

good points.
  if 90db is too loud over long periods, what range is safe?
  under 80, 75db?
   
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Note that anything over 90 dB for more than a few hours per day will cause PERMANENT HEARING LOSS.   Hearing damage of this type does not heal- what's happening is the hair cells in your cochlea, inside your inner ear,  are being killed by the sound. Once they are dead, they don't come back.  Ever.  Keep that in mind.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> good points.
> if 90db is too loud over long periods, what range is safe?
> under 80, 75db?


 

 I think staying under 80dB is a good rule of thumb. I would say my typical range is around 75dB, with peaks around 80dB. I also take at least an hour break for every two hours of listening.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> good points.
> if 90db is too loud over long periods, what range is safe?
> under 80, 75db?


----------



## arnaud

From wikipedia, looking up hyperacusis: 40% of tinnitus patients complain of mild hyperacusis.

What it means is that you may already be suffering from hearing damage if you quickly get tired at louder volumes than normal. In that case, the safe exposure levels charts like the above are meaningless because you're no longer in the average population these charts were derived from. You may be aggravating your case under even lower exposure than the limit prescribed.


Are you scared enough now and will keep the volume down? . Personnaly, I try to keep it down 65-70dB most of the time but I understand some may feel it too quiet for some types of music...


----------



## Elysian

Are the $30-40 SPL meters on eBay reasonably accurate, or is there a budget meter someone could please recommend?  I'd like to get ahold of one to make sure I'm listening to music below 70db.
   
  Thanks for any suggestions!


----------



## anetode

There's a big price jump between the reasonably accurate and the certifiably accurate, which go into the hundreds of dollars. The cheap ones will suffice for your purposes. Check the reviews. You can even get a free phone app that uses the builtin mic, though accuracy is far from guaranteed.
   
  If you're listening to music at a level that seems reasonable compared to everyday conversation, you should be fine. I've tested the loudest setting I ever use with HD800s and it came in at about 80db; the everyday setting came in at about 70 (avg, not peak).


----------



## paulchiu

can you get to a Radio Shack?
  they sell 2 to 3 different models that are as accurate as my studio sound meters.
  none of the RS units are over $50.  I have 3 of these.
   

  
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> Are the $30-40 SPL meters on eBay reasonably accurate, or is there a budget meter someone could please recommend?  I'd like to get ahold of one to make sure I'm listening to music below 70db.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions!


----------



## edstrelow

It's good to see a discussion about sound levels.   I fear for much of the younger generation brought up on Ipods.  I recall getting into an elevator in the Capital  building in DC with a respectable looking young man, possibly an intern,  who was blasting us with his Ipod earbuds.  He had to be listening at well over 100 dB.  Apparently the idea was to block out all other sounds.  Unfortunately at some point he won't have to do this  anymore as he probably won't be able to hear a lot of everyday sounds.
   
  Sound levelsvary a lot depending on the type of music you listen to.  Most classical music has a significant dynamic range such that you spend most of the time listening at low and moderate levels and then have a crescendo, generally  at the end and/or a few other spots throughout the piece.  Unless you ten to listen to pianissimos at fortissimo levels you should not be getting dangerous levels  of sound from this type of music.


----------



## livewire

Radio Shack is da place.
  I bought mine so I never go above 100 dB. Really!
  85 to 95 dB is fine for me most of the time. Rock on!
   
  @ Spekkio - I hear ya on finding the sweet spot for musical dynamics.
  I just crank it until my ears say "yup, this is where it all comes alive".
  If it seems too loud, then I check with the dB meter.


----------



## Elysian

The Radio Shack meter looks pretty nice:
  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667
   
  At least from the low-res pictures, the manufacturing looks nicer on the Radio Shack device than the $30-50 Amazon meters.


----------



## livewire

That's the one I got, excellent quality for the price.
   
  You will need to cut out a thick piece of cardboard as a fixture
  to hold the meter's sensor head in the center and to act as a seal plate for the periphery of the headphone.
  (imagine a flat donut)


----------



## paulchiu

they have been selling that model since 2003
  there is an analog version (with the needle) for $10 less.
  
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> The Radio Shack meter looks pretty nice:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667
> 
> At least from the low-res pictures, the manufacturing looks nicer on the Radio Shack device than the $30-50 Amazon meters.


----------



## svyr

re smr1/mk2 + sr507 and listening volume. 
well, my experience was the same wrt listening level and my previous setup was that and the experience was similar on my current amp, smr1 and srm-600ltd. 

i think it has more to do with sound sig prefs and your hearing curves matching the hp at higher spl (hence the 507 sound 'funner' at high spl)...

just my 2c


----------



## milosz

>>if 90db is too loud over long periods, what range is safe? under 80, 75db?<<
   
  Well you can listen at about 90 dB for ~2 hours a day and be just at the threshold of damage.  This hearing damage is cumulative.  So, if you listened for ~88 dB for two hours a day, and had no other  exposure to loud noise in that 24 hour period, you'd likely be OK.
   
  90 dB seems pretty loud to most people, unless your hearing is already damaged. 
   
  OTHER NOTES:
   

 The ear accommodates to loud sound.  If you listen at 85 dB for 30 minutes, an increase to 90 dB won't seem as loud as it would if someone just handed you a pair of headphones playing at 90 dB and you put them on "cold."
 Alcohol dulls perception of loudness. If you have a snootful you're much more likely to crank the volume higher to reach your "preferred" loudness. A glass of wine, a beer, one whiskey- not so much of this effect.  A six pack of beer, a bottle of wine, two martinis -  you're likely to find otherwise acceptably loud music "too quiet."  I have a friend who's a heavy drinker;  he actually caused the "energizer" box of his Jecklin-Float electrostatic headphones to CATCH FIRE by pounding too much more power into the audio coupling transformers when he was listening while hammered.
   
   
   
*Using the Chart  (from *http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-dose.html )
   
  Each line by itself represents 100% of the allowable noise dose *per 24-hour day*. In other words, if you've already experienced 15 minutes at 100 dBA, you're "done for the day," and the remainder of your 24-hour period should have NO exposure above 85 dBA, and preferably should be below 70 dBA. If you spend a lot of time in environments with varying noise levels above 85 dBA, you can wear a noise dosimeter and let it monitor the noise levels and exposure times and calculate the noise dose you're getting.
   
Maximum Recommended Noise Dose​  ​ Exposure Levels​ 
Noise Level (dBA)​Maximum Exposure Time per 24 Hours​85​8 hours​88​4 hours​91​2 hours​94​1 hour​97​30 minutes​100​15 minutes​103​7.5 minutes​106​3.7 minutes​109​112 seconds​112​56 seconds​115​28 seconds​118​14 seconds​121​7 seconds​124​3 seconds​127​1 second​130–140​less than 1 second​140​*NO EXPOSURE*​


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> *Using the Chart  (from *http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-dose.html )
> 
> Each line by itself represents 100% of the allowable noise dose *per 24-hour day*. In other words, if you've already experienced 15 minutes at 100 dBA, you're "done for the day," and the remainder of your 24-hour period should have NO exposure above 85 dBA, and preferably should be below 70 dBA. If you spend a lot of time in environments with varying noise levels above 85 dBA, you can wear a noise dosimeter and let it monitor the noise levels and exposure times and calculate the noise dose you're getting.
> 
> ...


 

 If you're spending a lot of time in environments above 85dB, you should be wearing hearing protection, period. I'm amazed that people spend hours in bars and clubs with levels easily pushing 95dB if not more, and usually out of terrible PA speakers with awful distortion that just make it 10X worse. I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure there's a connection between extremely high levels of THD and increased hearing damage, given the same SPL.


----------



## Currawong

I just use Sound Meter on my iPhone. I doubt the accuracy of it, but it is sufficient for me. The nice thing about the 009s is that they are perfect for me at about 70-80 dB.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


davebsc said:


> If you're spending a lot of time in environments above 85dB, you should be wearing hearing protection, period. *I'm amazed that people spend hours in bars and clubs with levels easily pushing 95dB if not more, and usually out of terrible PA speakers with awful distortion that just make it 10X worse.* I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure there's a connection between extremely high levels of THD and increased hearing damage, given the same SPL.


 

 Yup.  I've more than once winced in a club or bar and in fact, it happened to me recently at the cinema.  The damn theater's speakers were just too loud.  I need to get an SPL meter and take it in there.


----------



## arnaud

@milosz: these charts are good as reference but, as mentioned earlier, are not a guarantee you'll be safe by strictly following them. Sensitivity and propensity to damage varies with people and past trauma. These charts are there for regulation purposes because someone had to put a limit somewhere but they're not god's gift to preserving one's hearing. I'd say keep it as safe as possible (avoid any exposure above 100dB as feasible, maximize time in quiet environment, keep your listening to less than 70dB or else keep it brief) and obviously do pay very serious attention to warning signs (mild temporary tinnitus...).


----------



## svyr

need more closed stats with good seal and varied sound sigs


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> keep your listening to less than 70dB or else keep it brief


 

 I think that's going a little bit overboard. Some headphones are better than others in terms of performance at low volumes, but I've heard a lot of them that are simply a complete bore until you reach at least the low 70s - no soundstage, crushed dynamics, etc. I think something like 4 or 5 hours a day at around 75 should be perfectly healthy for most people, especially if you take a long break after every two albums or so. Just driving at highway speeds is 70+dB in a typical car.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I think that's going a little bit overboard. Some headphones are better than others in terms of performance at low volumes, but I've heard a lot of them that are simply a complete bore until you reach at least the low 70s - no soundstage, crushed dynamics, etc. I think something like 4 or 5 hours a day at around 75 should be perfectly healthy for most people, especially if you take a long break after every two albums or so. Just driving at highway speeds is 70+dB in a typical car.


 

 I don't know, better safe than sorry in my book. Taken from here (just a random search, there are little more relevant references out there: http://www.advanced-noise-solutions.co.uk/noise-effects/ ):
   
   
  <<The risk of hearing loss varies from person to person.  Some people are more susceptible than others and suffer hearing loss at lower noise levels than others.  There is no way of telling in advance who is more susceptible than the average person.  The hearing loss risk at different noise levels is shown in the following data published by the Health and Safety Executive:
    
Estimated Hearing Loss of 30 dB after 40 years’ exposure (Source: HSE)

[size=10pt] Noise Exposure (dBA)[/size][size=10pt] 77[/size][size=10pt] 82[/size][size=10pt] 87[/size][size=10pt] 92[/size][size=10pt] 97[/size][size=10pt] 105[/size][size=10pt] 115[/size][size=10pt] Percent of People[/size][size=10pt] 9[/size][size=10pt] 19[/size][size=10pt] 31[/size][size=10pt] 49[/size][size=10pt] 70[/size][size=10pt] 92[/size][size=10pt] 100[/size]


----------



## n3rdling

Using a phone app I'm getting 55-60 dB


----------



## purrin

Add about +6db to take into accounts the effects of a proper seal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I know you listen at fairly low volume anyways.


----------



## Audiogalore

Can anyone having both the SR 303 and the SR Lambda Signature or experiencing both tell me the difference in sound.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> @milosz: these charts are good as reference but, as mentioned earlier, are not a guarantee you'll be safe by strictly following them. Sensitivity and propensity to damage varies with people and past trauma. These charts are there for regulation purposes because someone had to put a limit somewhere but they're not god's gift to preserving one's hearing. I'd say keep it as safe as possible (avoid any exposure above 100dB as feasible, maximize time in quiet environment, keep your listening to less than 70dB or else keep it brief) and obviously do pay very serious attention to warning signs (mild temporary tinnitus...).


 
  Oh yes, quite true.  But the charts and any kind of SPL meter are a good place to start...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I just use Sound Meter on my iPhone. I doubt the accuracy of it, but it is sufficient for me. The nice thing about the 009s is that they are perfect for me at about 70-80 dB.


 


  Friend of mine is in the Jazz Studies dept. at DePaul University, was playing in a big band and someone had brought out a  good quality SPL meter -Brüel & Kjær 2250, measured the SPL next to my pal in the horn section and my pal checked his iPhone SPL app against the fancy meter and they agreed within 2~3 dB.  So the iPhone SPL app seems more than adequate to come up with valid "safe / not safe" loudness levels, at least for ordinary music sound ranges.  Probably in infrasound or ultrasound, no so much..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Try using a "plate" - a piece of cardboard with a small hole in it, put the hole over the iPhone's mic element, and apply the earcup to this cardboard "plate" - this will make sure the measurement is taken of the nearly sealed cavity in the earcup space, which I think gives you a bit more accuracy.


----------



## Currawong

Thanks for the tip. I usually just hold the mic where my ears would be. Most of the time I use it for volume matching, so as long as I'm consistent I figure it is good enough.


----------



## vvs_75

There is cool free iphone app called *PlayitDown*. It will measure sound level of your headphones and outside noise through mic. Also it have  so called *AUTO-OLD MY MUSIC* feature, that let you age your ears from 12 y to 60y .  Plus it can  test how old your ears already.


----------



## milosz

My circuit boards came for my DIYT2 build.
   
  The amp board is, well, HUGE. It's almost silly huge.


----------



## livewire

Is it Thanksgiving yet?
  Time to start the stuffing....


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





milosz said:


> The amp board is, well, HUGE. It's almost silly huge.


 

 You kiddin'?
   
  They ARE silly huge. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  The board is longer than my current rack.....


----------



## realmassy

At last, after 5 weeks 507 + 323S are in the house! The amp wasn't in stock, and the UK distributor had to place the order in Japan.
  The 323S is nicer than expected, headphones heavier than I remembered. And they sound a lot bassier, but that's probably because I've been only listening to my iPod and ER4 during these weeks.
  Any comparison with my previous rigs is obviously useless: I can't remember anything of my old 2050 system. _Maybe _it was more airy, with better bass control. But again, that's just guesswork.
  Despite what seems to be some kind of roll-off on the top end, the 507 are extremely transparent, they almost disappear in fact.


----------



## Amarphael

Welcome back to the Mob, enjoy them


----------



## K3cT

Have anyone compared the 507 with the Lambda Nova Signature? I'd figure it will be a very interesting comparison.


----------



## milezone

It's been a while since I've posted here but I just wanted to share some recent findings I experienced while tinkering with my Stax Lambda Pros the other night. To preface, I have owned several headphones over the years (in order of preference) including O2 mkI's, K1000's, K501's, K701's, various earbuds, several others, and Edition 9's. I have kept a pair of Lambda Pros and a pair of Beyer DT48e 25ohm headphones as they fulfill my needs and I prefer both to all else I've heard for different reasons. To keep it simple, the Lambda's are the most satisfying, immediate, and detailed headphones I've ever heard. As for the DT48's, their subdued nature (equating to almost zero listener fatigue), durability, detail and ease to drive have positioned them as the most worthwhile portable/reference option for me. In some ways the two headphones are quite similar in their character. To drive the Lambdas I use a stock SRD7 mkii and either an Almarro 318B (modded) or an Almarro 205a MKII (modded). 
   
  For about a year, until recently, I listened to most of my music through a pair of JBL 4430's. During that time I experimented with various modifications, one of which inserting open cell foam into the horn to reduce harshness (horn honk). The inspiration to do some came from Gedlee, designer of the well regarded Summa speakers (and others), who owned the same speakers, and performed the same modification with excellent results. The truncated explanation of what this modification does is reduce "high order modes" which are waves that travel inconsistently out of a horn (reflecting off the walls of the horn) causing distortion and inconsistencies. The foam diminishes these anomalies. Gedlee describes this in great detail on his site. 
   
  Upon selling my JBL's recently, I removed the foam plugs which were in the horns and stuffed them into the earpieces of my Lambdas (the dust foam had already been removed due to deterioration). The foam is ~7/8" thick and fits fairly snuggly in the ear cups. The top plane of the foam is roughly tangent to the plane of the leather ear cups. When on my head, the my ears rest on the foam. The slight downside is the foam is slightly scratchy but it's bearable. 
   
  Upon testing the mod I was amazed by the improvement in presentation. The Lambda Pros have often been criticized as too bright and lacking bass. While I've never found this to be an issue, any presence of brightness was gone and the occasional frequency inconsistencies had disappeared. I spent the following couple hours comparing the modded vs unmodded Lambdas. The two most significant enhancements I experienced in the modded pair was much better instrument separation (which greatly enhanced the soundstage [something these headphones do suffer from]) and vastly smoother presentation. My one appreciation of the O2 mki's over the Lambda's was its smooth presentation (though I have always found the Lambda's more revealing and exciting). I wish I had the O2's still to try the same mod on, though I never preferred them over my Lambda Pros and don't imagine they would benefit as much from the modification (as they're the smoothest headphones around). That being said, I'm completely satisfied with my modded Lambda's in their current configuration. My only curiosity at this point are the SR507's (and the SR009's) though the descriptions of the 507's indicate a more bass oriented and dense sonic character than the wonderfully airy Lambda Pros. 
   
  Given the scale of this mod (a pair of headphones where sound waves are traveling less than an inch before reaching the ear), compared to it's original application a waveguide (gedlee summa) or horn (jbl 4430) speaker (where soundwaves are traveling several feet through a room, it may initially seem insignificant and lacking correlation, though when taking into account the small distance that an electrostatic transducer moves relative to the space through which it travels, it seems logical (to me at least) that such a modification would have an effect.
   
  I'm fairly certain the foam I used was a 30ppi open cell like this one http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Air-Filter-Bulk-Foam/dp/B003V3LXAY, but it may have been a 20 ppi. I used a standard 7inch knife to cut it to the dimensions I wanted. That being said, it's worth experimenting with different varieties and thicknesses if compelled. 
   
  Pardon my interruption. I'm sure such modifications have been discussed in the past. I wanted to share my findings with my beloved Lambda Pros in particular with the hope that others give it a shot and share their findings if at all beneficial.


----------



## livewire

Geebers, a pic or three would be nice....


----------



## sphinxvc

*@milezone*
   

 Are you using the "*coarse foam*"?  (Your link is broken.)


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Have anyone compared the 507 with the Lambda Nova Signature? I'd figure it will be a very interesting comparison.


 


  I listened to the 507 briefly at a meet and thought it sounded a lot like the LNS.  Haven't compared them side by side though.


----------



## spritzer

I would call the 507 a whole lot brighter but any comparisons would be from memory.


----------



## milosz

Here's a link for foam at Amazon that should work:
   
http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Air-Filter-Bulk-Foam/dp/B003V3LXAY
   
  Nice to have a source for foam of various densities for experimenting.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I would call the 507 a whole lot brighter but any comparisons would be from memory.


 


  I am kind of familiar with the earlier Lambda models - Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Pro Signature, Lambda Nova...etc
   
  This new series  507, 407, 307 -  I'd be interested to hear what the differences are- thinner diaphragms? Different drivers? Tighter tolerance / driver selection for 507 > 407 > 307?  
   
  If someone here knows what distinguishes these earspeakers from each other, please let me know.  I don't mean listening impressions, what I want to know is how are these unit different aside from price and color?
   
  I'd also like to know how they differ from the older Lambda and Lambda Nova series.  
   
  I  **think** they use the same stators as the Lambda Nova series, but I could be wrong about that.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Replacing (or simply adding, in my case) new foam sounds interesting, but the last time I tried to open up one of the earcups on my Lambda after removing the screws, the two halves didn't want to separate for some reason. Maybe there was something I missed? Or did the guy that rebuilt the drivers in these do something to keep them shut with more than the screws?
   
  While I'm at it, I might as well get a set of genuine leather earpads...(too bad nobody makes velour earpads for Lambdas!)


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Welcome back to the Mob, enjoy them


 

 Cheers! And I'm happy to be a picciotto!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Replacing (or simply adding, in my case) new foam sounds interesting, but the last time I tried to open up one of the earcups on my Lambda after removing the screws, the two halves didn't want to separate for some reason. Maybe there was something I missed? Or did the guy that rebuilt the drivers in these do something to keep them shut with more than the screws?
> 
> While I'm at it, I might as well get a set of genuine leather earpads...(too bad nobody makes velour earpads for Lambdas!)


 


  The stickum on the double sided tape that holds the pads in place can migrate a little into the edge of the mounting plate.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I listened to the 507 briefly at a meet and thought it sounded a lot like the LNS.  Haven't compared them side by side though.


 

  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I would call the 507 a whole lot brighter but any comparisons would be from memory.


 


  Interesting... I have yet to hear a Lambda that is 100% free from that upper-mid etch/glare with the possible exception of the old Lambda normal. Perhaps this LNS could be the answer but I'm wary of acquiring something so old. It would be more safer to get the 507 which is the current in-production model.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-SC1 is also something to consider even if it is horrendously expensive and the cryo stuff is just BS and lies. 
   
  As for the difference in sound of the various 'stats, most of the time it is just due to how the diaphragm is tensioned and treated while everything else can stay the same.


----------



## Currawong

I'm pretty sure my pair of LNS had thicker thank normal pads (I'm not familiar with what pads were on which models) and I don't recall any upper-mid etch (something that annoyed the crap out of me on the K701s).


----------



## spekkio

If by the upper mid etch / glare you are referring to that 'ringing sensation' when one pulls up the equalizer at 5k, traces of it are still present on the SR-507. I don't hear it as bothersome as that peak at 10k though.


----------



## pabbi1

I listened to some 507 a bit yesterday, and it had a hint of the etch I remembered well from my Lambda Pros and Lambda Nova, though much lesser so. The bass was far better than either, and I enjoyed them a lot more than anticipated... yet, it was quickly back to the HE60.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I am kind of familiar with the earlier Lambda models - Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Pro Signature, Lambda Nova...etc
> 
> This new series  507, 407, 307 -  I'd be interested to hear what the differences are- thinner diaphragms? Different drivers? Tighter tolerance / driver selection for 507 > 407 > 307?
> 
> ...


 

 Not trying to hijack, but I would appreciate it if someone "in the know" could add information regarding the 404 and 507.  The 404 implemented a  thinner diaphragm several years ago and I believe the frequency range is the same as the 507.  The question for me is whether gong from the 404 to the 507 is significantly different and is that difference enough to constitute an upgrade.  Or is the O7, (with its exponentially higher  price and need for an amp upgrade as well), the only place for me to go?


----------



## ujamerstand

I own both the 404 and the 507. Tried switching back to the 404 for a week. Suffice to say I was very glad that I switch back to the 507 at the end of that week. I think you can get the same sonic performance with the 407+507 pads though, since the the 407 and the 507 have the same driver.


----------



## Il Mostro

Thank you.  Do you attribute the difference more to the pads themselves or the screens?


----------



## ujamerstand

The screen as in the driver? I believe a lot of the differences are due to the new (sic. better) way of mounting the drivers in the 407/507. However, the 507 pads certainly helped improve its bass extension compared to the 404 as it created a better seal.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





il mostro said:


> Not trying to hijack, but I would appreciate it if someone "in the know" could add information regarding the 404 and 507.  The 404 implemented a  thinner diaphragm several years ago and I believe the frequency range is the same as the 507.  The question for me is whether gong from the 404 to the 507 is significantly different and is that difference enough to constitute an upgrade.  Or is the O7, (with its exponentially higher  price and need for an amp upgrade as well), the only place for me to go?


 
  Yeah, what he said.
   
  I had forgotten all about the "04" series.  So, really, the question is:  What differentiates the 5-, 4- & 3- models in the '04 and '07 series, and how do they differ from the older Lambda Novas and Pros?  And I mean how are they different, not so much how different do they sound.  Is it all just diaphragm material and tension?
   
  I think the Lambda Nova series introduced a different stator design, and so that's how the Nova series differs from the earlier Lambdas. All Stax headphones now use this type of stator, I have been told.  And the Lambda Pro has a thicker diaphragm than the Lambda Pro Signature, so that's how they differ.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





ujamerstand said:


> The screen as in the driver? I believe a lot of the differences are due to the new (sic. better) way of mounting the drivers in the 407/507. However, the 507 pads certainly helped improve its bass extension compared to the 404 as it created a better seal.


 


  No, as in the fabric screen that fits in the center (behind the pads themselves) vs the light and very "open" foam that came on the original 404 pads.  I assume you are thinking along the lines of just the thickness of the pads and their effect on the "seal".  I have not found pads to make a night and day difference with other 'phones and have to guess that the effect is even less so with these particular Stax models.  I am sure there is some incremental difference with the pads, but given that the diaphragm material/thinness *may* be the same and frequency range is the same I am still wondering how and why the 507's are a step up.


----------



## milosz

Thickness of pads can change the volume of the earcup cavity in front of the diaphragm, this has some impact on frequency response.  For example, in the SR-007 II Stax changed the way the earpads are mounted or maybe they are thicker, but at any rate the diaphragms of the SR-007 mk II are positioned slightly farther from the ear than the mk I, yielding a slightly larger volume of air enclosed in the space between diaphragm and ear.  I have heard that this gives the mk II  a slight increase in midbass.  It doesn't seem like the volume enclosed by the earcup is large enough for this to be an ordinary resonance type of tuning, seems like the resonance of such a small volume would be higher in frequency.  It seems to me that it must be an interaction between the volume (i.e., mass) of air in the ear cavity and the dynamic properties of the diaphragm; call it diaphragm loading or mechanical impedance match or however you want to characterize it.
   
  So, earpad thickness can have a sonic impact with some drivers, especially if the ear cavity is well sealed.


----------



## TMoney

Moar measurements!!!
   
  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/more-stax-measurements-sr-009-sr-007-sr-507-sr-404-ltd-sr-404-and-sr-003


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Moar measurements!!!
> 
> http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/more-stax-measurements-sr-009-sr-007-sr-507-sr-404-ltd-sr-404-and-sr-003


 


  WOW!


----------



## Ham Sandwich

Poor Tyll.  All those Stax in his possession and no time to listen to them before needing to send them back before he leaves for CanJam.


----------



## DaveBSC

The difference between the Mk1 and the Mk2.5 is remarkable. Look at that rolloff in the bass.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The difference between the Mk1 and the Mk2.5 is remarkable. Look at that rolloff in the bass.


 

 Yes but the roll off only starts below 30hz on the Mk2.5, not 50hz like the Mk1. I'm not sure if it's actually such a good thing for the Mk1?
  I notice that the SR-003 measure extremely well too.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mobbaddict said:


> Yes but the roll off only starts below 30hz on the Mk2.5, not 50hz like the Mk1. I'm not sure if it's actually such a good thing for the Mk1?
> I notice that the SR-003 measure extremely well too.


 

 You'll notice in the un-averaged results that getting a good seal is a lot more important with the MK1 than the 2.5. The easier fit and the bit of extra bass comes at a price though, the MK1 is noticeably flatter in the midrange. I don't think you're going to see people trying to get rid of their MK1s and "upgrade" to the 2.5.


----------



## mobbaddict

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> You'll notice in the un-averaged results that getting a good seal is a lot more important with the MK1 than the 2.5. The easier fit and the bit of extra bass comes at a price though, the MK1 is noticeably flatter in the midrange. I don't think you're going to see people trying to get rid of their MK1s and "upgrade" to the 2.5.


 

 Yes but again no matter how good the seal is there's always this 3 db dip below 50hz with the Mk1, while with the Mk2.5 the bass seems strong until 30hz (thanks to some kind of midbass hump) then disappears. So I'm just wondering which is worse.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Can some one tell me where the O2Mk1 treble stands compared to the lambda normal bias and/or the o2Mk2.5 z3,LCD2rev2.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## Elysian

Just upgraded from stock Tung Sols to a matched quad of cryo-treated reissue Mullard 12AX7s for a stock Woo GES paired with a SR007A MK2.
   
  My immediate reaction, even before the GES fully warmed up:
   

   
  Bass is /much/ fuller, as well as more defined and much less flabby.  With the Tung Sols, the bass sounds thin, even a bit listless, in comparison.  Anything with bass guitar and drums sounds like it just got a shot in the arm.
   
  The midrange is improved and is much more in your face.  It feels like the entire soundstage moved closer to me.  Guitars and gritty passages like the beginning of Muse's 'Hysteria' and UNKLE's 'A Wash Of Black' are significantly cleaner.
   
  It's hard to describe the treble.  It sounds clearer, but maybe slightly more rough around the edges?  Maybe that'll change with more burn-in, or maybe it's just more noticeable with how drastically improved the bass and midrange are.  Vocals are clear, but have a slight edge/roughness to them.
   
  Things sound much more dynamic and in-your-face.  The overall effect is replacing a dirty and scratched projector lens, and giving it a new bulb.  The sound is still very GES-like, but I'm noticing little details in songs popping out much more audibly, and the overall sound composition feels more coherent.
   
  For anyone with a GES and hasn't upgraded their tubes, I really recommend checking out the Mullard 12AX7 reissues linked above.  I decided to give the tubes a shot after reading very good reviews about the New Sensor reissues, and I'm very glad that I did.  Biggest upgrade I've gotten for how cheap it was in a long while.
   
  I'm really looking forward to trying out a quad of the KT77 Gold Lions reissues with the BHSE.  Some reports say the reissues are even better than the NOS.


----------



## ZarakiSan

So I just got an SR-202 last night. It's not new - it's from 2002 or so, if I recall correctly. The headband creaks a LOT when I move any part of it. What's the best way to fix this? I've looked at replacement head bands and they're kind of expensive, so I'm curious to hear about any other options.
   
  Apart from that, how do I remove the ear pads? Those probably need a refresh as well - I want to make sure, but I'm not sure on how to remove the ear pads and can't seem to find it online.
   
  If anyone's got either of these things lying around and wants to sell, please PM me. I'm in Europe (Netherlands), just so you know.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Just upgraded from stock Tung Sols to a matched quad of cryo-treated reissue Mullard 12AX7s for a stock Woo GES paired with a SR007A MK2.
> 
> My immediate reaction, even before the GES fully warmed up:
> 
> ...


 



 The Mullards are excellent valves. Need at least 100 hours to run in. Sound opens out, superb bass and lovely mid and sweet treble. ENJOY.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> Have anyone compared the 507 with the Lambda Nova Signature? I'd figure it will be a very interesting comparison.


 

 Yes, I have both. I think the differences are subtle. I have described them as similar to the differences between CD and LP - difference between digital and analogue - but its more a matter of prefernce. The 507's are 'fast, detailed, clean, slightly better control on the bass' while the LNS are ' a bit cosier, slightly warmer - more analogue'. This doesn't make the LNS obsolete - far from it- and if you have a bright system the LNS may well sound better. If you have an all transistor system with a valve energiser, the LNS may sound better. In my system transistor pre -amp, valve power amp, and SRD SB7 the 507's sound just that bit better. I wouldn't go back to the LNS but they are a superb phone and I have got many hours of happy listening from them.


----------



## schorsch

Sigma 404 question,
   
  I finally want to get the metamorphosis for one of my Sigmas. Are there any recommendations who does a good job on Sigmas?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## ZarakiSan

Okay, I figured out the ear pad thing - do the 507 ear pads fit (and do they also have the tape method of applying them) on the sr-202?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





zarakisan said:


> Okay, I figured out the ear pad thing - do the 507 ear pads fit (and do they also have the tape method of applying them) on the sr-202?


 

 My understanding is that all Lambda-series models use the same-size pads applied via the same method of double-sided tape. Apparently, Stax hasn't needed to change the design much.
   
  For this reason, I've considered replacing my worn-out SR-Lambda pads with some nice, new, genuine leather SR-507 ones.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Just upgraded from stock Tung Sols to a matched quad of cryo-treated reissue Mullard 12AX7s for a stock Woo GES paired with a SR007A MK2.
> 
> My immediate reaction, even before the GES fully warmed up:
> 
> ...


 

 I found the cryo-treated Mullard re-issue to sound almost as good as my Telefunken smooth plates in the GES, for a bit less money.  They blew away the 12BZ7 that Jack included with the maxed GES.


----------



## Elysian

Thanks for the thoughts HeadphoneAddict.  I was curious about the Telefunkens, and am going tube shopping soon.
   
  Yes, I was encouraged about the reissues as the reviews on the New Sensor reissues were, in every possible respect, superior to the Groove Tube reissues.
   
  There is still a slight edge/harshness around the upper-mids on the Mullard reissues I haven't gotten totally used to yet, but it's starting to fade a bit with burn-in.  If the Gold Lion 12AX7 reissues are more aggressive, I'm glad I went with the more mellow Mullards.  The lower registers are so vastly improved that there is no question about how inferior the stock GES tubes are.  I'm noticing instrumentation which I didn't hear before with some of my rock music.
   
  I'm actually now in a much happier place.  Going from Toslink cable to a nice shielded Beldin coax (with Kings and Canare connectors) gave, IMO, about a 5% increase in quality (though some people I had test it preferred the Toslink sound), and the tubes increased the quality up to 25-30% over stock tubes+Toslink.  Another plus is that I'm getting more out of my source now, too.


----------



## Otakusound

On the topic of Lambda maintenance I had a few questions I was hoping the Stax thread could help me with. I recently discovered that one of my lambdas has a driver loose and peeling off of the metal plate.  At this point I'd actually like to remove the drivers completely so that I can clean the metal plates and try to begin restoring the lambdas. (the double sided ear pad tape has melted onto the plate and attempts to clean have left me with lots of the gunk stuck under my fingernails) So the question at the heart of this is: What are safe methods for removing and reattaching drivers? I can't find anything on the subject, apart from the suggestion that polyurethane glue works as a good bond for the reattachment. So if anyone in the thread has a lot of experience dissecting Stax products (cough:spritzer:cough) even a hint as to how to proceed would be vastly appreciated.


----------



## spritzer

Your best bet would be high quality double sided adhesive since it allows you to make mistakes.  I for one use industry strength polyurethane glue which allows for no errors but it is also a much stronger bond.  Attaching drivers with this method in a Sigma chassis is nothing short of terrifying with about 1mm of clearance...


----------



## Otakusound

Thanks for the quick response, I managed to get both drivers off the plates gently and get all the tape residue cleared away. I'm going to head out tomorrow and get some 3M Scotch 4010 tape, as that's the best double sided stuff I've worked with in the past.


----------



## wiinippongamer

What do you guys think is the best $300-ish DAC out there to match with a SRS-2170 system ( supposedly pretty similar to sr-202 but with a better amp)?


----------



## NamelessPFG

...Aw, crap. Whoever rebuilt the drivers in these Lambdas didn't do a flawless job.
   
  There's some sort of resonance in one of the drivers around the 31 Hz range, sometimes in the 62 and 125 Hz ranges as well. It also makes these crackly pops if disturbed. I found out that it goes away (with no other impairments to the sound) if a little pressure is applied to one edge of the protective grille or the same edge of the driver from behind, though...the problem is that I can't maintain that pressure in practical usage.
   
  How am I going to fix this without buying a whole new set I certainly can't afford now?


----------



## jaycalgary

I used 3M Scotch 4607 outdoor mounting tape hope the 4010 will work for you. The flooring tape is not good even to hold earpads on. My Sigmas are homemade jobbies but I had an easy oval to cut because I had no plastic venting in front. Hope you have a good plan to do this because if you get any on the dustcover it will be ruined so easy I think. The 4607 is pretty thick but it might help cut down vibration to the cheap plastic housing the Sigma is made of? The best idea I can think of to apply the tape is get a roll. Cut a piece off doing it wastefully so you have a strip that has backing on both sides. Then from that cut a few strips about 3/16ths then go right around leaving some space away from dustcover. Just an idea hope you can find an easier one.


----------



## spritzer

Only the outside frame of the Sigma is plastic, the earpad-driver mount is aluminum.


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I used 3M Scotch 4607 outdoor mounting tape hope the 4010 will work for you. The flooring tape is not good even to hold earpads on. My Sigmas are homemade jobbies but I had an easy oval to cut because I had no plastic venting in front. Hope you have a good plan to do this because if you get any on the dustcover it will be ruined so easy I think. The 4607 is pretty thick but it might help cut down vibration to the cheap plastic housing the Sigma is made of? The best idea I can think of to apply the tape is get a roll. Cut a piece off doing it wastefully so you have a strip that has backing on both sides. Then from that cut a few strips about 3/16ths then go right around leaving some space away from dustcover. Just an idea hope you can find an easier one.


 


  4010 was just my first choice having previously used it in PC mods. It's the go to choice for people attaching acrylic windows to computer cases since it has a reputation of never letting go. As for my game plan, I was thinking either cover the whole plate with the tape and then exacto knife around the opening or as you were suggesting cut long strips and use smaller strips along the top and bottom curvy bits. When you talk about the dustcover, do you mean the thin membrane protecting the driver pointing out into the earcup or the screen side that points inward toward the ears? I'm going to be as gentle as possible with this, and the drivers themselves have been kept in small ziplock bags since I took them out yesterday.


----------



## jaycalgary

Exacto knife is the way I did it and just tried to come close to size on the outside edge. The thin membrane is on both sides it is also on the side under the screen. That is another problem you might have to look into because you might have to separate the screen from the one side and mount it on the other so it is on the inside of the housing or bend the solder pins so they clear but they can break. There is pretty much a guide with pictures out there on another site but I do forget how they go for real Sigmas.


----------



## realmassy

Anyone experienced imbalance between channels with the SR507? I got it new last week and after a couple of days I realized the right channel sounds louder. I've swapped the interconnects but the louder channel is still the right.
  Given the problems I've had in the past with the 20250 I'm starting to think there's something wrong with me :-O
   
  Anyway, I got in touch with the seller (thank God I bought in UK) and I'll probably ship the next week. Anything I can check before shipping them?


----------



## schorsch

Still looking for advice )
   
  Where in the world (Europe) is a good technician who man upgrade my Sigma(Pro) to 404?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## sachu

Its official!
   
http://www.cavalliaudio.com/liquid-lightning/


----------



## jaycalgary

Is there any reviews so far? Is it pretty much the same power as the KGSS?


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Is there any reviews so far? Is it pretty much the same power as the KGSS?


 
  had a quick listen today at RMAF/CanJam to the Liquid Lighting with O2 Mk1's and then walked 15 feet away and tried the same headphones on the BHSE.
   
  this is only about 2-3 minutes with each amp and different sources although both were classical SACD's.
   
  i liked both....and could easily live with both. i heard farther into the music with the BHSE and it seemed a bit more dimentional and detailed, the Liquid lightning a little less so. this is about degrees of good and not anything amiss. on it's own the Liquid Lightning did not sound solid state at all, it was....well....liquid. and very low noise, great top to bottom balance. nice leading edge energy without any edgyness. no nits to pick at all based on my short listen. the LL has the advantage of not messing with tubes. also; the LL seemed to have more headroom in it's volume on the O2's compared to the BHSE; however, this is no issue on 009's.
   
  i plan on rolling the tubes on the BHSE whenever mine gets here, so i expect it will be better than i heard it with stock tubes.
   
  i do own 009's and O2 Mk1's. i listened to the BHSE with Justin's 009's. i was reluctant to try Justin's 009's in the Liquid Lightning, but looking back i wish i had.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





mossback said:


> i liked both....and could easily live with both. i heard farther into the music with the BHSE and it seemed a bit more dimentional and detailed, the Liquid lightning a little less so. this is about degrees of good and not anything amiss. on it's own the Liquid Lightning did not sound solid state at all, it was....well....liquid. and very low noise, great top to bottom balance. nice leading edge energy without any edgyness. no nits to pick at all based on my short listen. the LL has the advantage of not messing with tubes. also; the LL seemed to have more headroom in it's volume on the O2's compared to the BHSE; however, this is no issue on 009's.
> 
> i plan on rolling the tubes on the BHSE whenever mine gets here, so i expect it will be better than i heard it with stock tubes.
> 
> i do own 009's and O2 Mk1's. i listened to the BHSE with Justin's 009's. i was reluctant to try Justin's 009's in the Liquid Lightning, but looking back i wish i had.


 
   
  Thanks for the detailed thoughts on the BHSE vs LL.  Best comparison I've read so far.  On an abstract level, your thoughts make sense given how much power the LL is delivering for the SR007/SR009s, and the affect tubes will have on a hybrid system like the BHSE.  I didn't realize the LL was solid state.  It looks like there's a good commercial successor to the KGSS now, albeit at a higher price-point.
   
  Based on the last few years of threads I've been digging up, seems like tubes do have a very audible effect on the BHSE.  KT77 Gold Lions seem like the drug of choice, followed by XF1 and XF2 Mullards if one is fortunate enough to run across a NOS quad.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks for the detailed thoughts on the BHSE vs LL.  Best comparison I've read so far.  On an abstract level, your thoughts make sense given how much power the LL is delivering for the SR007/SR009s, and the affect tubes will have on a hybrid system like the BHSE.  I didn't realize the LL was solid state.  It looks like there's a good commercial successor to the KGSS now, albeit at a higher price-point.
> 
> Based on the last few years of threads I've been digging up, seems like tubes do have a very audible effect on the BHSE.  KT77 Gold Lions seem like the drug of choice, followed by XF1 and XF2 Mullards if one is fortunate enough to run across a NOS quad.


 
  thanks. i'd caution how limited the time i spent was, and how the sources were different. personally i'm comfortable with my reads, but would not claim anything definative.
   
  as far as rolling tubes on the BHSE; i have purchased a matched NOS/NIB quad of early Holland metal base EL34's. from what i've read, these should be pretty good. they should arrive in a week or so. wish i could say that for my BHSE. when i spoke to Justin in person he said delivery for me was close.....by year end (that's not 'close' from my perspective).


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Anyone experienced imbalance between channels with the SR507? I got it new last week and after a couple of days I realized the right channel sounds louder. I've swapped the interconnects but the louder channel is still the right.
> Given the problems I've had in the past with the 20250 I'm starting to think there's something wrong with me :-O
> 
> Anyway, I got in touch with the seller (thank God I bought in UK) and I'll probably ship the next week. Anything I can check before shipping them?


 


  Yes, you can check whether the two parts of the volume knob are aligned, if you have a Stax amp. You wouldn't be the first person to think something is wrong when you have accidently moved a part of the knob.


----------



## spekkio

I don't really know but I experienced the exact same issue with the 507. Not sure if it's the amp having internal channel imbalance or whatever but I just turned the left side knob a bit higher and it solved the issue (somewhat.)


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Its official!
> 
> http://www.cavalliaudio.com/liquid-lightning/


 

 No pics? Aint real unless there are pics. Gutz 2!


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Yes, you can check whether the two parts of the volume knob are aligned, if you have a Stax amp. You wouldn't be the first person to think something is wrong when you have accidently moved a part of the knob.


 

 Yes, I tried that. I moved the knob counterclockwise to "reset" the two parts and then move again clockwise: the left channel is still softer.
  507 are going back to the seller tomorrow


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Anyone experienced imbalance between channels with the SR507? I got it new last week and after a couple of days I realized the right channel sounds louder. I've swapped the interconnects but the louder channel is still the right.
> Given the problems I've had in the past with the 20250 I'm starting to think there's something wrong with me :-O
> 
> Anyway, I got in touch with the seller (thank God I bought in UK) and I'll probably ship the next week. Anything I can check before shipping them?


 


  Put the phones on backwards and make sure that your ears aren't unbalanced (i.e. a plug of wax in your left ear, for example).


----------



## svyr

realmassy said:


> Yes, I tried that. I moved the knob counterclockwise to "reset" the two parts and then move again clockwise: the left channel is still softer.
> 507 are going back to the seller tomorrow


+1 on putting them backwards, also you can get a voltmeter and measure the :L+/L- and R+/R- voltages and see whether there really is a channel imbalance, say for a 1khz tone.


----------



## dBel84

Quote: 





mossback said:


> i do own 009's and O2 Mk1's. i listened to the BHSE with Justin's 009's. i was reluctant to try Justin's 009's in the Liquid Lightning, but looking back i wish i had.


 

 My impressions were similar with the 02's , I thought both the WES and the LL fleshed out more of the mids and bottom end with the 009 with the LL being a lighter tighter at the bottom. This is of course worth a grain of salt as these are meet conditions and I don't own either. I trust my ears for my own preferences but bottom line is that the 009 is a fantastic headphone and all 3 amps are very capable..dB


----------



## pabbi1

I spent about 3 hours with the LL through my source, and have detailed impressions to post tonight (from home). Have only listened with HE60 (and a little 507), so no observations about OII and SR-009 (yet). Mine was a structured torture / texture test, using material that I have found problematic over the years on various electriostatic amps.
   
  But, from what I recall, on the stat amps I have heard ( BH(multiple), BHSE, T-2, KGSS, GES, WES, HEV90, ES-1, 006t, 007t, SRM-T1, eXStatA, McAlister, yada), the LL is in the same conversation as the BH. Only a head to head (ceteris paribus) shootout will tell for sure.  
   
  It isn't just about performance (which I wholeheartedly agree mystifies some vendors) - it is about synergy. That is why I really, REALLY want to hear this amp with the SR-009 and the OII (which I feel never really had the right amp, for me, and why we have never gotten on, even after listening to 10 different pairs).
   
  After this session, I couldn't even plug in my eXStatA for a couple of days... it was just a step too far down.


----------



## spritzer

Well Al, you like the Exstaa so you be crazy... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  You really need to try the V2 version which has a lot more power for people who like to listen insanely loud.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Btw.  Did Alex figure out why the amp broke down at the meet?


----------



## runeight

It is necessary for me to reply to this unfounded assertion.
   
  The LL did not break down at the meet. It played all the time from Friday morning at 8am to Sunday afternoon at 4pm. People were listening to it until just about closing time.
   
  However, during transit the PS develped an oscillation. It was small, but it was audible standing around the unit and not audible in the headphones as part of the audio. Rather than try to find the problem at the meet I decided to wait until I could get it home to have a look. We told people about this noise when they sat down to listen. So far as I recall, no one complained knowing that this was a proto amp.
   
  This is an easy fix and has nothing to do with the performance of the amp.
   
  Moderators are we going down this road again?


----------



## pabbi1

[size=11pt]Impressions?[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Ok, I took the eXStatA for A/B… and never plugged it. Didn’t need to. There was no point.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]I listened for 3 solid hours (which went by like 30 minutes). [/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Mind us all that we did not have a BH (of whatever flavor) nor a KGSSHV for comparison. But, this amp is every bit as good as a BH with GOOD tubes, though I couldn’t say WRT a BHSE (as I have heard one for only about an hour, across two different units). That said, it will be a fair competition, and possibly just a matter of taste. No similarity at all to a KGSS, which I find cold and sterile, and, underpowered.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]BUT, I heard things today that were FAR better than I ever heard in _my_ BH (with Mullard xf2), for instance: Rolling Stones ‘Moonlight Mile’ and ‘I Got the Blues’ were just off the chart spectacular, as was ‘Wings for Marie’ and ’10,000 Days’ from Tool, along with Beck’s ‘The Golden Age’ and ‘Already Dead’. Known problem childred like the afore mentioned ’10,000 Days’ along with Monstar Magnet’s ‘Powertrip’ came through cleanly and clearly, not clipped and distorted (in spots). Zappa’s ‘Crew Slut’, one of the best recorded and mastered discs ever, ‘Joes Garage’, was REALLY special – more below.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]All tests of PRaT (DEVO, Nine Inch Nails, The Who ‘Eminence Front’) came through dead on, bass (Mudvayne, The Who ‘Real Me’, ‘5:15’ and ‘Love Rein O’er Me’) had great lower extension, and was very tight (great news for OII fans), vocals pitch perfect (Radiohead ‘Paranoid Android’, Stones ‘Wild Horses’), and the sibilance test (Zappa’s ‘Crew Slut’, with an interplaying sitar, wailing harmonica, and blazing Fender Strat was mixed perfectly) showed me no hints of sibilance whatsoever.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Three solid hours with mostly the HE60 and a bit of the 507 (which I liked better than I expected, but still has the ‘Lambda etch’) and no, nada, zip fatigue. Bright? Not really – the 507 is a bit more forward, but not harsh.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Weakness? In a word none. What I did notice was in a few songs I have come to be very familiar with (note for note, bit by bit (as in 00 or 01), the bass is pushed up into the vocals. This I am attributing to the mix to make some radio friendly songs have more bass when getting radio airplay. The worst offended is Radiohead ‘Lucky’, which starts with just a bass line and vocals – an odd start to begin with. We can just call this brutal honesty, manipulative mix, or just an odd bit from that one CD. I have that song on other CDs as well, and if I’d had them handy, would have compared. I also am not quite sure about the acoustic guitar – it is spectacular, but not sure if the tube amps (BH or eXStatA) make them sound different. I would say better, but those presentations may be colored, and the LL more real, but will defer this idea until there is something comparable to A/B.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]We used my source (Ayon CD-1), which has 6h30-DR and CCa driving it – two each, and about $700 in tubes, so maybe an SS amp (never my favorite in days gone by) isn’t really an issue - with a tube source.[/size]


----------



## jaycalgary

I am very interested. Just about to try my luck building a KGSSHV but this gives me reason to wait but too bad it is so far away. If the KGSS is cold and sterile is the KGSSHV more than just a KGSS with higher voltage? I think the big question right now would be is the "Liquid Lightning" a step up from a well built KGSSHV even if the answer is speculative? I am really hoping I could get an answer for is a ball park figure on price. I went to the site saw the price for the Liquid fire pre order but was thinking it is the Lightning. I see it is about $3k. Is this amp probably a bit lower or its going to be higher? Balanced outputs and hopefully not to big.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Btw.  Did Alex figure out why the amp broke down at the meet?


 
   
  Quote: 





runeight said:


> It is necessary for me to reply to this unfounded assertion.
> 
> The LL did not break down at the meet. It played all the time from Friday morning at 8am to Sunday afternoon at 4pm. People were listening to it until just about closing time.
> 
> ...


 







 I gotta see where this one is going!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I am very interested. Just about to try my luck building a KGSSHV but this gives me reason to wait but too bad it is so far away. If the KGSS is cold and sterile is the KGSSHV more than just a KGSS with higher voltage? I think the big question right now would be is the "Liquid Lightning" a step up from a well built KGSSHV even if the answer is speculative? I am really hoping I could get an answer for is a ball park figure on price. I went to the site saw the price for the Liquid fire pre order but was thinking it is the Lightning. I see it is about $3k. Is this amp probably a bit lower or its going to be higher? Balanced outputs and hopefully not to big.


 

 That's one person's opinion. I don't think the KGSS has a general reputation of sounding like a Krell. I may eventually check out the LL, but I think my maxxed out HV is going to be tough to beat. Of course a new commercial amp is _always _welcome.


----------



## sachu

i'll only say, if there is one person who can design an amp that can sound neutral yet musical, its Dr.Alex Cavalli. (IMHO of course). Craig Uthus BA is fantasti by the way too..not a full on cavalli only fan here you know 
   
  Small wonder that I have been building his designs for the last 4 years and his designs have always been in my system..ALWAYS!
   
  I for one, am genuinely excited to see him design a serious high end stat amplifier offering after the stupendous success of the low cost, relatively easy to build eletrostat amp he designed for the community. More than 150 board sets and hardly do you find one on the used forums every now and then. 
   
  The LL by accounts so far from highly experienced people in this hobby points to an amplifier capable of  holding its own and then some with the big name electrostat amps.
   
   
   
  And from reading this thread, it is glaringly obvious that there has been a calling for new offerings to cater this market..and a highly reputed designer has done exactly that.
   
  If someone likes a particular amp, well and good. If you don't like something, that's even better (one more to cehck off the list eh wot!?). 
   
  ANyways, hope to see some good times, with people being nice to each other  and enjoy some great tunes in these parts.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> [size=11pt]No similarity at all to a KGSS, which I find cold and sterile, and, underpowered.[/size]


 

  
  In my short time with the LL, to my ears it sounded very similar to a KGSS.  I mean that as a compliment.


----------



## n3rdling

Is cold and sterile code word for "solid state, low distortion, high linearity"?  I only ever see it used to describe such amps.


----------



## pabbi1

In the amp I was listening to, albeit a SS source, I guess a better adjective would be thin, as in underpowered. It sounded anemic compared to my BH, though better than a GES.


----------



## FrankCooter

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Is cold and sterile code word for "solid state, low distortion, high linearity"?  I only ever see it used to describe such amps.


 

 Kind of like the code "mushy, colored, euphonic," that's only seen in reference to tube amps?
   
  Both characterizations are cliches and inapplicable to well designed audio gear of either type.
   
  And just to be fair, there's tube gear out there that sounds like a pile of screaming weasels ( think big Disco era amps composed of banks of junk 6550's with tons of global feedback and solid state power supplies with huge banks of electrolytic capacitors)
   
  Sorry for the digression. How about some more information on the LL?  Pics? Topology? Specs?  Any technical info. would be appreciated.
   
  From all reports sounds like a promising amp. Let's hear some more!


----------



## sridhar3

Hoping I can add a little bit to this discussion, though I'm not an experienced reviewer like the rest of you guys.
   
  When I got to the booth, Dr. Alex Cavalli and Brian Kurtz had the amp hooked up to a pair of 507s.  However, later on, I did have the unique opportunity to listen to the LL with SR-009 (thanks to Justin's generosity) and the O2 Mk.1 (thanks to Justin and Larry).  I also listened to the Jade on the LL, but that's not really worth commenting on, as all three of us agreed those headphones were the pits.
   
  I felt that the comparison between the LL and BHSE is eerily similar to a post on the high-end forums regarding the Leben vs. Apex Pinnacle.  The LL is a solid state that sounds like a tube amp, and the BHSE is tube amp that sounds like solid state.  The BHSE won out in micro-detail and soundstage, but the LL just had this groovy foot-tapping head-bobbing infectiously-musical party-time fun vibe that made me not want to stop listening.
   
  As far as the O2 Mk.1 vs. the SR-009, I think that just comes down to personal preference of sound signature.  I preferred the SR-009.  I felt the O2 Mk.1 had slightly more bass flab, but both headphones sounded excellent.
   
  I felt the LL competes at the BHSE level, but they're different sounds to me.  I intend to own both.


----------



## jude

Quote: 





runeight said:


> ...Moderators are we going down this road again?


 

 No, Alex, I can assure you we are not.
   
  It was nice seeing you in Denver, man.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





frankcooter said:


> Kind of like the code "mushy, colored, euphonic," that's only seen in reference to tube amps?
> 
> Both characterizations are cliches and inapplicable to well designed audio gear of either type.


 


  Yup!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks for the thoughts HeadphoneAddict.  I was curious about the Telefunkens, and am going tube shopping soon.
> 
> Yes, I was encouraged about the reissues as the reviews on the New Sensor reissues were, in every possible respect, superior to the Groove Tube reissues.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Compared to the Telefunkens the edge doesn't go away completely, but they're not bad.  I saved them for "later", to use in my ZDT over the years as needed.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I posted my thoughts about the Cavalli Liquid Lightning in the RMAF impressions thread.  All I need to post here is that I loved it and intend to get one for my 007 and HE-60.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/575847/canjam-rmaf-2011-listening-impressions-thread/390#post_7830107


----------



## Electrostax

Stax makes the world a better place. The SR-407´s driven by SRM-006ts are FUN headphones. End of discussion.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Figured I'd get in on this thread as I am considering an 007 CLL combo down the line (hopefully within 6 months or so). Gotta try and keep up with the time, ya know?
  
  Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I posted my thoughts about the Cavalli Liquid Lightning in the RMAF impressions thread.  All I need to post here is that I loved it and intend to get one for my 007 and HE-60.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/575847/canjam-rmaf-2011-listening-impressions-thread/390#post_7830107


----------



## moodyrn

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> Stax makes the world a better place. The SR-407´s driven by SRM-006ts are FUN headphones. End of discussion.


 


  I definitely agree with that. I just got back from a two person meet with another headfier and he thought the 407s sounded better than lcd-2, and he-6. It was his first time listening to stax however, and this was with a 2000.00+ source. But the 407s are amazing cans for the money. I like the he-6 slightly better, but they are in the same league imo. The astonishing part is, the he-6 are twice the price and the lcd-2s are 400.00 more.


----------



## Elysian

How would you compare the bass tightness and presence on the 407 vs. the LCD-2 and HE-6?


----------



## moodyrn

The bass on all three is really tight. I can't find that either really excel over the other in that department. I would say that the 407 are just a tad bit tighter. The he-6 have more extension, but the 407 have more impact and just a bit more slam. The lcd-2 bass is smoother and a tad more refined. It has more punch than all three, but still it's close. The he-6 wins over the other two in extension. All three are great sounding cans. If I had to rank them it would be he-6, 407, lcd-2.  I would be extremely happy with either. But depending on your preference the ranking could be in any order. I've been a fan of stax headphones for years. They are the one brand where you don't have to get a flagship to hear high end sound. Heck I would even take an old 202 over a pair of ed8, d7000, and even hd800.


----------



## Elysian

Interesting, thanks for the rundown!  Maybe it'd be worth getting a used lambda and Stax amp for work, particularly since only the O2s need a lot of voltage swing to be driven properly.  I always thought the 407s were supposed to be great for string instruments and vocals, but not that great for percussion, though I've read that those line of headphones were very popular as studio monitors in the 80s and 90s.


----------



## K3cT

Just listened to the 007MK1 again today. Man, that kind of transparency is really unattainable in other types of transducers though I definitely prefer the bass on my LCD2.


----------



## Elysian

Another quick update on the GES paired with the MK2, since I've been receiving some PMs about the GES lately (people giving up their LCD2s for the O2! they've seen/heard the light).
   
  I finally swapped out the stock Tung Sols with a quad of NOS Sylvania 6S4A.  Immediately improvement in the instrument separation.  Someone who listens to my setup regularly said that it sounds a lot cleaner now.  Cheap upgrade, as NOS Sylvania 6S4As are only a few bucks on the market still.  I also have some NOS RCAs which supposedly have better bass, but I'm going to stick with the Sylvanias for awhile and let them burn in some.
   
  Long story short, swapping out the stock Tung Sols with a quad of NOS Sylvania 6S4A and quad of reissue cryo-treated Mullard 12AX7 has largely gotten rid of the muddiness I disliked about the GES, particularly in the low-end.  Really obvious on tracks like Smashing Pumpkins 'Zero', Garbage 'Vow', Metric 'Gold Guns Girls', and Silversun Pickups 'Panic Switch'.  I could use some more bass slam, but I figure that'll come with the BHSE.  The bass presence is certainly not lacking, and I'd say it's around on par with Grado now (though still not within swinging distance of the LCD2).
   
  Yes, the O2s still sound 'dark' but overall transparency has been significantly improved, and you don't need to go crazy with tube rolling to get a lot out of the GES.
   
  Now if only my preamp can get here, to see if it can solve the soundstage issue...


----------



## Kabeer

Hello stax folk.
  Does anyone here have some old worn out Stax SR-x earpads?
  ones where the pleather is peeling, or has peeled off?
   
  if you have an old set of pads that you replaced or maybe dont need any more, please drop me a PM .
   
  Thanks!


----------



## jaycalgary

One think I am thrilled about is last week I finally had good luck getting ear wax out and was there ever a lot. I tried emergency room doctors before with mixed results and tried myself quite a few times with no luck. It is very hard to do but with a few days of ear drops and water ball it worked. Probably going to take some time to find the O2's as dark as people say because sure sounded bright after having high frequency hearing cut off for so long.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I use a water pick regularly myself. Really changes the way things sound when they're squeeky clean.
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> One think I am thrilled about is last week I finally had good luck getting ear wax out and was there ever a lot. I tried emergency room doctors before with mixed results and tried myself quite a few times with no luck. It is very hard to do but with a few days of ear drops and water ball it worked. Probably going to take some time to find the O2's as dark as people say because sure sounded bright after having high frequency hearing cut off for so long.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Another quick update on the GES paired with the MK2, since I've been receiving some PMs about the GES lately (people giving up their LCD2s for the O2! they've seen/heard the light).
> 
> I finally swapped out the stock Tung Sols with a quad of NOS Sylvania 6S4A.  Immediately improvement in the instrument separation.  Someone who listens to my setup regularly said that it sounds a lot cleaner now.  Cheap upgrade, as NOS Sylvania 6S4As are only a few bucks on the market still.  I also have some NOS RCAs which supposedly have better bass, but I'm going to stick with the Sylvanias for awhile and let them burn in some.
> 
> ...


 

 That was basically my experience with tube rolling in the GES as well.  If you can find a slightly brighter source there is further improvement in tone.  My PS Audio Digital Link III sounded brighter in 192K up-sampling mode which helped the 007, but unfortunately the overall sound quality was not as good as my Apogee mini-DAC.


----------



## Electrostax

Quote: 





moodyrn said:


> I definitely agree with that. I just got back from a two person meet with another headfier and he thought the 407s sounded better than lcd-2, and he-6. It was his first time listening to stax however, and this was with a 2000.00+ source. But the 407s are amazing cans for the money. I like the he-6 slightly better, but they are in the same league imo. The astonishing part is, the he-6 are twice the price and the lcd-2s are 400.00 more.


 


  Sure thing!  And an often overlooked, but nevertheless very important fact in this "endgame" rig hunt of ours is the FUN - factor!
  By that I mean that one rig may measure more correct and have a scientific-technically superior sound, however be so boring and bland or demanding and annoying after a short while, that it puts a rather early end to every listening session. Not necessarily because of fatigue, but simply because you lose interest as it fails to inspire further listening...  
  FUN headphone rigs on the other hand may have _minute_ shortcomings in their analytical abilities, but make up for this in some kind of musical quality, call it coloration, second order harmonics or whatever you like. The point is it sounds better to the entire mind-body system and starts endorphines flowing, feet unvoluntarily tapping, smiles slowly creeping across your face, a sensation of happy bliss spreads in your head and you WANT MORE! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





   -Listening for hours upon end.
   
  I "downgraded" deliberately from the technically slightly more able rig of srm323s/sr507 to the more FUN and to my ears more musically agile srm006ts/sr407 and have not looked back a second!  Both are brilliant and probably measure close to perfection, however one gives more enjoyment.  
   
  I was planning to upgrade to a BHSE in a year or two, thinking it had to be the best thing out there, but now I seem to find some of the same issues that made me buy the "lesser rig" in the reviews of the cavalli lightning vs bhse, and if the cavalli is more FUN while still remaining close to perfection, I for one, definitely know what amp I will end up with!


----------



## Elysian

Where is the best place to buy the Stax CPC-1 dust cover and HPS-2 stand for someone in the US?  I saw them on Elusive Disc for $20 and $100.  Is there any other place worth looking at for an online purchase?
   
  Also, I have a few large motherboard antistatic bags.  Would reusing one of those be better than dealing with the CPC-1?  I won't be able to use the HPS-2, but I usually just keep my O2s on top of a microfiber cloth so they don't get scratched.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


elysian said:


> Where is the best place to buy the Stax CPC-1 dust cover and HPS-2 stand for someone in the US?  I saw them on Elusive Disc for $20 and $100.  Is there any other place worth looking at for an online purchase?
> 
> Also, I have a few large motherboard antistatic bags.  Would reusing one of those be better than dealing with the CPC-1?  I won't be able to use the HPS-2, but I usually just keep my O2s on top of a microfiber cloth so they don't get scratched.


 

 I bought mine from Elusive Disc, as you mentioned.  I like the dust covers.  They're big enough that they should fit around pretty much any stand and any pair of headphones.  Jack Woo of Woo Audio can get 'em for you, but he'd have to order them, so there'd be some waiting involved.
   
  I use antistatic bags for storing a lot of my electronics, but I find the plastic used in the CPC-1 is much more flexible.  The antistatic bags would work if they're big enough, I suppose.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Where is the best place to buy the Stax CPC-1 dust cover and HPS-2 stand for someone in the US?  I saw them on Elusive Disc for $20 and $100.  Is there any other place worth looking at for an online purchase?
> 
> Also, I have a few large motherboard antistatic bags.  Would reusing one of those be better than dealing with the CPC-1?  I won't be able to use the HPS-2, but I usually just keep my O2s on top of a microfiber cloth so they don't get scratched.


 

 I think the primary purpose of the CPC-1 is just to keep dust away from the drivers. If you're not that concerned with looks, buy any old headphone stand, and then stick anything over the whole thing. A big jar, etc.


----------



## DolphinG

Well, as a STAX mania, I wanna get one SRM-X that can be used as portable.
   
  Do you guys know where I can get one?
   
  I know it's so rare and I didn't see one recently.
   
  I also have 001 system, but it's not so satisfactory, so I wanna get one.
   
  By the way, is it used by 2 sources?
   
  Battery of adapter?
   
  Anyone who used one of this, please give me some useful information.


----------



## firgoe

Is electrostatic headphone 100% safe? are u guys not reluctant at all putting your head in between 800 Volt of electricity?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Stax would have gone out of business years ago if they didn't get the safety down.
   
  I've never been shocked while wearing my Lambda, and I don't think anyone else has, either.
   
  The manual does make a point of not using them while you have a wet head, but I'd think that's common sense for anything electronic, especially involving high voltages. Besides, what are the chances of someone throwing on headphones after getting out of the shower or the pool without even drying his head first?


----------



## firgoe

I often used headphone after taking shower while my head is not completely dry. Of course not wet ... but not very dry either.
   
  Any problem with radiation?


----------



## svyr

firgoe said:


> I often used headphone after taking shower while my head is not completely dry. Of course not wet ... but not very dry either.
> 
> Any problem with radiation?




this has been discussed several times before. It's not radiation, it's moisture causing arcing in the drivers and potentially damaging the diaphragm. (melting a hole in it I presume). 
Correct me if I'm wrong  

pretty sure people also discussed the current limiting resistors in the bias section, etc as well.


----------



## milosz

~800 volts on the Stax 'phones....
   
  Walk across a wool carpet with synthetic soles on your shoes, touch a doorknob...snap, 10,000 volts. 
   
   
  Volts don't kill.  Amps do.


----------



## milosz




----------



## Electrostax

Quote: 





milosz said:


> ~800 volts on the Stax 'phones....
> 
> Walk across a wool carpet with synthetic soles on your shoes, touch a doorknob...snap, 10,000 volts.
> 
> ...


 
  +1
  Nylon sweaters 30,000 volt sparks zap you upon removal, (not that I´d wear one ;P ), Walking on felt-tiled floors, then touching ground; ZAP! 70,000 volts....  Still alive! 
  -Amps kill. (no. -not amplifiers.)


----------



## jazzfan

Greetings!
   
  I'm a first time STAX owner and, although I've only had mine for a relatively short period of time, I've been thoroughly enjoying my SR-009s. I have a question I was hoping someone here might be able to address.  This evening, while I was adjusting the fit of my SR-009s, I made a rather odd discovery.  I noticed that if I spread the forward facing edge of both earcups "outwards", away from my head about 1/4", there was a significant boost in mid-bass energy (approx. 63Hz-125Hz).  It's a bit boomy, but definitely more energy.  This is quite the opposite of what I've experienced with other circumaural headphones, where typically, I hear a "decrease" in bass if the headphones are not properly seated around the ears.

 For me, the effect is quite noticeable.  Has anyone else experienced this effect with their SR-009s, and more broadly, is this common with other STAX models?  An explanation of what could be causing this would be appreciated, as well.


----------



## n3rdling

Hey jazzfan, nice to see you   I didn't know you got the 009's!  As for your question, it is common to Stax headphones.  There is an increase in midbass but the loweer bass rolls off much more rapidly when you do this.  It doesn't have to be the front of the pads, you just have to break the seal.


----------



## jazzfan

Hi, n3rdling.  Actually, I have you to blame thank for re-introducing me to the STAX line.   Thanks for letting me try your O2's at the last Bay Area meet and many thanks for answering my question!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





electrostax said:


> +1
> Nylon sweaters 30,000 volt sparks zap you upon removal, (not that I´d wear one ;P ), Walking on felt-tiled floors, then touching ground; ZAP! 70,000 volts....  Still alive!
> -Amps kill. (no. -not amplifiers.)


 

-Amps kill. (no. -not amplifiers.)
  You obviously haven't seen some of the amps I've built.... 

  (Just kidding.  My work is never this neat...)


----------



## jcx

milli amps can kill, higher V (> ~ 200 V) punches thru your outer dead skin cells which give some insulation when dry, when wet you don't even have that much insulation
   
  as little as 50 mA passing thru your chest can kill - not that anyone would think to do it while getting shocked but you would theoretically be better ripping the phones off your head with one hand (the right) rather than grabbing each cup with each hand
   
  smaller body mass women, children are more sensitive to electrical shock
   
  headphone amplifiers have potentially lethal high V and stored charge, current from the line xfmr to kill - don't remove covers, poke around inside if you don't know what you're doing (even with power off the capacitors can retain or even recover some charge after shorting them from their dielectric absorbtion)
   
  at the amp outputs there are normally several current limiting mechanisms - the amps are often Class A biased with 5-10 mA which often means they are current limited by that amount on at least one polarity
   
  Gilmore's project amps have series R on each output that is large enough to keep external current below lethal levels for short times, less than a second - takes less current for longer durations
   
  and the headphone construction itself should meet "double/reinforced insulation" standards - again opening, modding your ESL headphones should only be attempted by someone knowledgeable of the construction requirements and mechanically competent enough to not break/disable during (dis/re)assembly and meet/exceed the standards with any mod
   
  after market cable for ESL headphones are a bad idea because of the insulation construction, special impedance requirements
   
  so well designed ESL headphone amps shouldn't provide (instantly) lethal current at the output if working properly internally, but can give unpleasant shocks causing strong muscle contractions - people get hurt from falls, hitting things due to the muscle contractions - you could probably figure out how to kill yourself with ESL amp output, its a problem with "foolproof" design - fools are incredibly ingenious
   
  (relatively) safe design, construction, properly working ESL amps combined with undamaged, well insulated ESL headphones, worn while you are dry, in dry conditions are "safe enough" - since nothing is ever absolutely safe - the headphone's insulation can give a layer of safety if the amp fails in unsafe way and vice versa - but both need to be safe individually


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





jcx said:


> as little as 50 mA passing thru your chest can kill - not that anyone would think to do it while getting shocked but you would theoretically be better ripping the phones off your head with one hand (the right) rather than grabbing each cup with each hand


 

 It is also hugely frequency dependent. You need a lot more DC current to cause problems, whereas 50-60Hz from typical AC mains is almost the perfect frequency to interfere with your heartbeat. Much higher frequencies are less dangerous as well.


----------



## schorsch

You also need the bps 600 battery pack (to use it on the road) which is rarer than the SRM-X. The bps 600 wa also used for the ultra rate stax microphone amps.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## sridhar3

My 009s came in today.  I have an unnatural urge to turn the volume up a lot.  They're way underamped though.  Hope Justin's BHSE run ships out soon.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> My 009s came in today.  I have an unnatural urge to turn the volume up a lot.  They're way underamped though.  Hope Justin's BHSE run ships out soon.


 
   
  What amp are you using, perchance?
   
  I'm curious to hear what your running them off as I've had absolutely no issues whatsoever running the 009s off my old vintage 90's SRM-T1. The sound is as flawless as anything I've ever listened to and it's hard to imagine them sounding much better with a higher quality amp. I don't really know what can be improved as far as the amp is concerned.
   
  That being said, I'm getting down to the home stretch on my DIY KGSSHV and it will be interesting to see if there is much of a subjective difference between the two. I'm not expecting there to be much of a difference between the KGSSHV and the T1, but I'll try and keep an open mind once they both are up and ready for testing.


----------



## ktm

The weather here was hot until a day or two ago. That makes Stax headphones a bit hard to wear. That and the large clunky size.
  I have been on the lookout for Gamma pros to replace sr-202's or the sr-404's. I also saw the in the ear stax in the for sale area but didn't move
  fast enough. The question I have is how much sound quality am I going to lose going either of these routes?


----------



## DolphinG

I have SR-80 junior lambda and they're having problems in volume balance.
   
  Does anyone knows where to fix this kind of things?
   
  Well I'm living in Korea and it's so hard to get some information about STAX imbalance.


----------



## arnaud

x-post from the impressions thread of Tokyo 2011 Fall Headphone Festival ( http://www.head-fi.org/t/577893/tokyo-japan-meet-at-the-fujiyaavic-2011-autumn-headphone-impressions/15#post_7857306 ):
   
*Stax - new flagship amplifier:*

 Yeah, no... There was no such thing
 Just like the last 2 meets, I talked to the main sales person to see how this is ticking along
 Basically, nobody should get their hopes up for a product in 2012
 Stax is looking into this but they said they won't release a new amp unless it significantly trumps the current top models
 In particular, they feel (I share that feeling too) that the current top Stax amps are doing pretty good with the 009 so they don't feel so much pressure to release something in the very near future
 One thing he said also is that the company is very small (like 10 people in the main office) and their R&D staff really only works on one project at a time. So they need time, lots of time ... He said the 009 was 3 years in the development.
 My take: Stax is also probably waiting for the reaction of the market to the 009 as I guess they don't want to go down the same path that brought them to bankruptcy once...


----------



## pabbi1

Thanks Arnaud... any idea how many sr-009 they are selling in a month, and, what production is in their other lines (OII, 507, etc)?


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


tmoney said:


> What amp are you using, perchance?
> 
> I'm curious to hear what your running them off as I've had absolutely no issues whatsoever running the 009s off my old vintage 90's SRM-T1. The sound is as flawless as anything I've ever listened to and it's hard to imagine them sounding much better with a higher quality amp. I don't really know what can be improved as far as the amp is concerned.
> 
> That being said, I'm getting down to the home stretch on my DIY KGSSHV and it will be interesting to see if there is much of a subjective difference between the two. I'm not expecting there to be much of a difference between the KGSSHV and the T1, but I'll try and keep an open mind once they both are up and ready for testing.


 

 I'm using a Virtue TWO.2 into a WEE.  Some music sounds amazing, but other stuff sounds way too bright.  Few tracks with poor soundstage, few tracks with recessed mids.  Not sure if it's the amp or the recordings themselves, to be honest.
   
  At any rate, my setup is far from optimal.  It's really just a stopgap measure, so that I have *something* with which to drive the 009 until the BHSE is delivered.
   
  You're coming to the NY meet, yes?  If so, I'll be bringing all this stuff with me, so you can give it a listen.  If anybody there has some good preamps with speaker outs, it might be fun to take the WEE around and see how the preamp changes how the headphones sound.

 And sorry to not have gotten back to you sooner.  Widespread power outages last night.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> In particular, they feel (I share that feeling too) that the current top Stax amps are doing pretty good with the 009 so they don't feel so much pressure to release something in the very near future


 


  Any idea if they are aware of the criticism of the 727II?


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *arnaud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> One thing he said also is that the company is very small (like 10 people in the main office) and their R&D staff really only works on one project at a time. So they need time, lots of time ... He said the 009 was 3 years in the development.


 

 Wow, that's pretty amazing how prevalent Stax items are on JP auction sites given the size of the company.
   
  In between Cavalli, Woo, and the other folks coming to market with $1-3.5k priced electrostat headphone amps, if some of them plan on pursuing an aggressive international distribution strategy, it probably isn't a safe bet for Stax to pursue a high-end amplifier.  I'd imagine your average customer wouldn't want to buy an amplifier that costs significantly more than their headphones.


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Wow, that's pretty amazing how prevalent Stax items are on JP auction sites given the size of the company.
> 
> In between Cavalli, Woo, and the other folks coming to market with $1-3.5k priced electrostat headphone amps, if some of them plan on pursuing an aggressive international distribution strategy, it probably isn't a safe bet for Stax to pursue a high-end amplifier.  I'd imagine your average customer wouldn't want to buy an amplifier that costs significantly more than their headphones.


 

 If they made a new flagship it wouldn't be competing against the 1-2k amps,it would be competing at the high end 5k+ area against the BHSE and others.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





pabbi1 said:


> Thanks Arnaud... any idea how many sr-009 they are selling in a month, and, what production is in their other lines (OII, 507, etc)?


 

 No idea, they probably would not tell either (usually it's not in a company's interest to have its competitors know its sales volume...)
   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Any idea if they are aware of the criticism of the 727II?


 

 Actually, this criticism is "only" prevalent in the US and originates from a small group of people (DIYers / followers of Kevin Gilmore's designs) and I never read about it in French forums for instance. There are no commercial estat amp offerings in Japan apart from Stax so I suspect people are satisfied with Stax amps here as well.
   
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> Wow, that's pretty amazing how prevalent Stax items are on JP auction sites given the size of the company.
> 
> In between Cavalli, Woo, and the other folks coming to market with $1-3.5k priced electrostat headphone amps, if some of them plan on pursuing an aggressive international distribution strategy, it probably isn't a safe bet for Stax to pursue a high-end amplifier.  I'd imagine your average customer wouldn't want to buy an amplifier that costs significantly more than their headphones.


 

 I don't know, the average customer would not buy stax gear, let alone the 5kUSD phones period. But if I speak for myself, the 009 is pretty much over my price limit and if I had to fork another 5kUSD immediately to enjoy its sound, I wouldn't have afforded it. So Stax is probably being very cautious here and will only release something that significantly outperforms existing models (price will probably be in the range of 009).


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> I'm using a Virtue TWO.2 into a WEE.  Some music sounds amazing, but other stuff sounds way too bright.  Few tracks with poor soundstage, few tracks with recessed mids.  Not sure if it's the amp or the recordings themselves, to be honest.
> 
> ...


 

 Cool. It will be interesting to do a little compare and contrast among the 009 rigs. There should probably be a BH at the meet as well as I think Kerry is coming.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Actually, this criticism is "only" prevalent in the US and originates from a small group of people (DIYers / followers of Kevin Gilmore's designs) and I never read about it in French forums for instance. There are no commercial estat amp offerings in Japan apart from Stax so I suspect people are satisfied with Stax amps here as well.


 

 A better question would be, are they aware of the criticism of Yama's, and is there anything they can do about it. I think Needle Doctor stopped carrying Stax because they got no support from Yama's. I'm not sure how important Stax considers this market to be, but the current situation is pretty bad when your distributor does not pick up the phone for dealers, let alone customers.


----------



## Currawong

I wish my Japanese was good enough to bring that up with them Dave.
   
  Anyway, from Dyna 5555 in Akihabara:


----------



## Elysian

Cool pic from Dyna 5555.  What floor do they have the SR009s on?
   
  Out of curiosity, what kind of reputation does Stax have in Japan?


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Anyway, from Dyna 5555 in Akihabara:


 

 Roughly how much were they going for there? I can't quite make out the pricetag in the picture.
   
  I'll be spending a lot of time in Akihabara, and I'll probably be picking up the SR-009's while I'm there. If that stack is anything to go by, I don't think I'll be having any supply issues.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Roughly how much were they going for there? I can't quite make out the pricetag in the picture.
> 
> I'll be spending a lot of time in Akihabara, and I'll probably be picking up the SR-009's while I'm there. If that stack is anything to go by, I don't think I'll be having any supply issues.


 

 Retail price at Dyna 5555 I believe (JPY349,000). I did ask the clerk if the boxes were filled and, while they do have stock, these are just display boxes. They probably have a couple of pairs at the store...


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> A better question would be, are they aware of the criticism of Yama's, and is there anything they can do about it. I think Needle Doctor stopped carrying Stax because they got no support from Yama's. I'm not sure how important Stax considers this market to be, but the current situation is pretty bad when your distributor does not pick up the phone for dealers, let alone customers.


 

 They probably are aware of this but there might be a long history with Yamasync (like a personal relationship between the 2 owners). Add to this the fact that nobody seems to speak English at Stax and it's not difficult to imagine they choose the status quo over the trouble of searching for a new distributor. From conversation with them at the show, they are quite appreciative of the positive reviews of the 009 being posted on head-fi so they clearly are not ignoring US market.


----------



## aurabullet

bleh I can't seem to find a bang for the buck amp for the mk2's here
   
  what would you guys prefer over these? Ges (retail 1450), SRSM 323S (700$ retail), 007tii (1200$) or 717 @ 1000$


----------



## obzilla

I'm in the same boat *aurabullet*.
  There seems to be a huge gap between the (ahem) affordable amps you have listed, and the performance amps that begin at $4,500 and up.
  Seems like there would be some money to be made with a decent $2,000-$3,000 amp powerful enough to drive the O2s well.
   
  Mine are sitting in a box, unusable until I settle for one of the lower end amps, or spring for one of the bank breakers.
  Some have told me they will be fine with a GES, while others say the are quite underpowered. (Jack even says it's not enough, but then again, it's in his interest to sell the WES over GES)
   
  FWIW, I have heard them with a 007T-II, and it sounded great, I would expect much more from a BHSE or WES etc.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





aurabullet said:


> bleh I can't seem to find a bang for the buck amp for the mk2's here
> 
> what would you guys prefer over these? Ges (retail 1450), SRSM 323S (700$ retail), 007tii (1200$) or 717 @ 1000$


 

 If you can find an SRM-717, get that. If not, get a 323s. The affordable tube amps just don't have the guts. A third route is to import a Japanese SRM-727A for $1700, and have it rewired for 120V. While you're at it, you could have the spritzer mod done to the circuit.


----------



## Audiogalore

I heard a 02 at a Headfi meet and it sounded great with a T1W.


----------



## aurabullet

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> If you can find an SRM-717, get that. If not, get a 323s. The affordable tube amps just don't have the guts. A third route is to import a Japanese SRM-727A for $1700, and have it rewired for 120V. While you're at it, you could have the spritzer mod done to the circuit.


 


  What about the 007tii that I could get for 1.2k?


----------



## aurabullet

scratch that, you just said the affordable tube amps don't have the guts XD


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> My 009s came in today.  I have an unnatural urge to turn the volume up a lot.  They're way underamped though.  Hope Justin's BHSE run ships out soon.


 


  Hi,
  If you bring the 009s to the meet on the 12th, I'll have m my SRM-T1S and hopefully someone will bring a BHSE.
  I have 404LEs which I will be using on my (TBD) BHSE which is in Justin's batch of 45.  Where I go after the
  404LE is absolutely unknown, but experience tells me that my wallet will develop a new hole, as it seems to
  do after every meet.


----------



## n3rdling

717/O2 is a great combo.  I'd never recommend getting a 007t when you can just get a T1S for way less.


----------



## Duggeh

I concur with n3rdling.
   
  I've owned the O2/717 combo for 5 and a half years, it makes superb music.
   
  The BHSE is better, but also different. And of course, *big *money.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Hi,
> If you bring the 009s to the meet on the 12th, I'll have m my SRM-T1 and hopefully someone will bring a BHSE.
> ...


 

 You bet I'll be bringing them with me.  I'm hoping that Dr. Cavalli and/or Brian Kurtz can make it.  The Cavalli Liquid Lightning with the 009 is a pretty awesome combo and one of my favorite parts of CanJam.  Justin's BHSE/009 rig was solid too, so hopefully somebody will bring one.  Should be a few DIY stat amps as well.  If Jack Wu brings his WES, we'll have no shortage of amplification (and if he does, he'll likely have his own 009 there too).
   
  I'm waiting on my BHSE as well.  I'm one of the last ones (maybe #41 or 42), so we'll see how that goes.  And yeah, it's very likely your wallet is going to be a sad panda for the foreseeable future.


----------



## jaycalgary

Nice to see people still think pretty highly of the 717. I just bought one last Friday and will get it in a week of so. I have been using my O2's with an old SRM1/MK2 and it is all right to me but hoping for stiffer bass. The 717 is the right size for me because I take it on the road when I work out of town. I paid just over $1k but they don't seem to come up too often. Size wise it looks like it will fit nicely on top of my W4S Dac2.


----------



## Sundance

I always preferred the Stax energizer house sound as opposed to the other offerings. I've enjoyed the 717/O2 longer than I have on most rigs. Congrats on your pick-up.


----------



## sachu

Been listening for a while now today. Today is the first time i have spent a lenghty amount of time with these headphones in the comfort of my home in my system. Color me impressed.
   
   
  THe O2s have quite possibly found a permanent home in my system and is now my main headphones.


----------



## n3rdling

Nice, enjoy


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Been listening for a while now today. Today is the first time i have spent a lenghty amount of time with these headphones in the comfort of my home in my system. Color me impressed.
> 
> THe O2s have quite possibly found a permanent home in my system and is now my main headphones.


 
  I was thinking the LCD2+LF was going to be your choice for the rest of 2011 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  It's interesting how the O2s grow on people.  I admit the first time I heard them they seemed nice but not super amazing.  Now, after putting a few months of solid listening time into them, particularly on recordings I know very well, it's kind of uncanny how I can immediately identify deficiencies in most other headphones within seconds.  I don't see myself upgrading out of the SR007A (and possibly SR009) before moving to speakers unless there's something amazing I've missed along the way.
   
  Kind of hard justifying the SR009 price, though, given how a pair of Emerald Physics CS2.3 is very close.  Will see what happens once I get my BHSE, I guess.


----------



## K3cT

Well, it doesn't have any treble sparkle to impress on first listen unlike the HD800 for example but I do agree that it's something that you appreciate over time. 
   
  That being said, I think that the 007 is still too mellow for my personal taste and to be honest with, I still prefer the Lambda's tonal balance compared to the Omega sans its upper mid glare of course. It's just a bloody shame that the über-expensive 009 is the only way to go given my preferences.


----------



## n3rdling

You should get a SR Omega.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I was thinking the LCD2+LF was going to be your choice for the rest of 2011
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  You're going to have a hard time strapping those Emerald Physics CS2.3 to your head, but I wanna see it after you rig it up...


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You should get a SR Omega.


 


  I think you have told me this before. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I don't know... other than the SR-Ω being extremely rare, I'm not really comfortable with owning something so old. 
   
  How do you find the SR-009 differ from the SR-Ω anyway, n3rdling since you own both?


----------



## spekkio

I'm not sure why, but today I had the chance to listen to an SRM-323S for 1++ hours. I found no fatigue using it at loud volumes. A few posts back, I did ask regarding volumes and ear fatigue with the SRM1-Mk2. With the SRM1, it would be at most 15 minutes at medium volume before I felt ear fatigue set in and it would take at least a day to recover. Listening to anything during this recovery period would make me feel horrible. It seems the problem may be related to the old SRM1 rather than my listening volume (I definitely do not listen very loudly). I wonder what exactly is the issue with the amp? There were no differences I could discern based on A/Bing the amps, except maybe the high treble (10k and up) being slightly sharper on the SRM1. Anybody knows why?


----------



## K3cT

I have the SRM-1/MK2 and it's indeed a bit to the bright side. I can't listen to it for too long either using the SR-202.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I was thinking the LCD2+LF was going to be your choice for the rest of 2011
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  THe LCD-2 + LF is an impressive system IMHO.
   
  THe O2 is a bit more holistic in its approach. Don't get me wrong, but i still prefer my speaker rig by lightyears and don't think that headphones will be more than a secondary rig, don't disturb the neighbours late in the night rig to me. Headphones can only do so much. Absolute pleasure when listening to music is undoubtedly with my speaker rig for me. 
   
  That said, I am eagerly looking forward to powering the O2MK1s with a high end stat amplifier


----------



## Elysian

I like the O2s due to their detail and effortless feel towards reproducing music.  It took some system adjustment to make sure that effortlessness didn't translate to subpar bass, but I'm in a pretty happy place right now wrt to my overall system.  I might eventually like to get a nice solid state amp and LCD2 for a secondary headphone rig someday, but it's just for a different (rather than better) sound signature.
   
  It'll probably be awhile until I can listen to a speaker rig without disturbing others, so headphones are my only option for the foreseeable future.  I've been trying to select items for my systems to work well with both headphones and speakers, though, so I think I'm 'only' a pair of nice speakers and four channels of amping away.  The BHSE is reportedly very transparent, so my plan is to add my flavor of distortion through a 300B tube preamp, which is currently working very nicely through the GES.  I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work just as well through the BHSE, but I guess that's one of those things one can never be sure about until actually trying it out.  I'm wondering whether a good tube preamp will help take the edge off the SR009, but I'm unsure whether I'm motivated enough to haul over 100lbs of equipment to a meet to find out.
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> You're going to have a hard time strapping those Emerald Physics CS2.3 to your head, but I wanna see it after you rig it up...


 

 89lbs per speaker!  Just a minor inconvenience


----------



## schorsch

Quote:


> I don't know... other than the SR-Ω being extremely rare, I'm not really comfortable with owning something so old.


 

 I'm really comfortable enjoying even older cans) Sigma Pro / Lambda Signature with SRM t1 ans ED 1 Signature using a Stax Quattro two as source made my day after one of he worst nights in my life (My daughter spilled out everything ate and dran the last day in the last night) She is better now and after an hour with Mr. Vladimir Horowitz playing exclusively for me I feel recovered.
   
  Some people like J. Buchanon prefer the Sigma Pro over the Omega especially when listening to piano )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> I think you have told me this before.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  I would say the SR009 sounds like a mix between the Omega and Omega2.  In terms of tonality, the 009 is the most neutral I've heard, the Omega is a little on the bright side, and the Omega2 is a little on the dark side.  The Omega and 009 are pretty similar in size of soundstage, both clearly larger than that of the O2.  Bass on the 009 doesn't have as much slam as the O2 in the midbass region, but the extension is fantastic and probably the best of any electrostat (similar to LCD2 in extension).  Imaging is of the pinpoint variety similar to the O2, but the size of the images is larger than the O2 and smaller than the Omega.  Speed and detail seems pretty similar among the three, though the 009 is probably a bit more detailed than the other two.


----------



## n3rdling

Georg, I believe John was talking about the Omega2 in his comparisons and not the orignal SR Omega.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> I'm really comfortable enjoying even older cans) Sigma Pro / Lambda Signature with SRM t1 ans ED 1 Signature using a Stax Quattro two as source made my day after one of he worst nights in my life (My daughter spilled out everything ate and dran the last day in the last night) She is better now and after an hour with Mr. Vladimir Horowitz playing exclusively for me I feel recovered.
> 
> Some people like J. Buchanon prefer the Sigma Pro over the Omega especially when listening to piano )
> 
> Regards Georg


 

 Georg,
  I haven't heard an original Omega. I do prefer both the Sigma Pro and Sigma/404 over the SR-007.  In individual points, the SR-007 is a better phone - without a doubt. It just didn't make me want to listen to as much music as the Sigma series. It was also a bit uncomfortable to wear in the summer over here.
  The Lambda Nova Signature with the ED-1 diffuse field equalisation (present in the SRM-Monitor) also competed rather nicely.


----------



## milosz

I have to say that in some ways I'm disappointed with the SR-007's, too.  After getting my first Stax-  Sigma Pro Signature with an SRM-T1 -  I really liked the Stax and was looking for really GREAT THINGS from the very costly SR-007 MK II's I bought (used.)
   
  I listened to the SR-007's on the SRM-T1  and the SRM-1 MK II and the sound was good, but I was hoping for... MORE good.  Don't get me wrong, I like the SR-007's.  They are a great headphone.  But I wanted more from them, after hearing the Lambdas.  For me it was a matter of my expectation, which maybe could not have been satisfied by any product.
   
  I think part of it is that the SR=007's don't reach their potential with SRM-T1  or SRM-1 MK II. So, I'm building a DIY T2. Should be finished by Feb. or so.  And that should be better, and bring out more of the SRM-007's potential, but I bet it STILL won't meet my very high expectations.  Somehow the very high standard set by my Lambda has caused my expectations to be VERY high for the SR-007's.
   
  [Yeah, my home-made DIY T2  will either bring out more of the SR-007's potential or it will burn my house down when I first plug it in.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ]


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I think part of it is that the SR=007's don't reach their potential with SRM-T1  or SRM-1 MK II. So, I'm building a DIY T2. Should be finished by Feb. or so.  And that should be better, and bring out more of the SRM-007's potential, but I bet it STILL won't meet my very high expectations.  Somehow the very high standard set by my Lambda has caused my expectations to be VERY high for the SR-007's.


 

 That's a BIG part of it. The 007 demands the very best in amplification, and also seems to be the electrostatic equivalent of the Hifiman HE-6, it has the same sort of unquenchable thirst for more power. Reaching its maximum potential requires 600+V, and you're giving it half that amount with relatively low end Stax amps. I think the DIY-T2 is going to be a serious eye opener.
   
  A source upgrade may also be in order.


----------



## schorsch

Dear John,
   
  I wanted to to get to the point that old stuff doesn't mean "bad" I'm sorry I got it wrong with the SR007 and the Omega. (Mixed them) up)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## ktm

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> I have the SRM-1/MK2 and it's indeed a bit to the bright side. I can't listen to it for too long either using the SR-202.


 


  I've got 202 and the same amp. If you find it too bright, then it's time to re-cap the amp.


----------



## Ellipsis

Hi, does anyone know where to audit sr-009?
  I live in Los Angeles but I found no audio store selling stax...


----------



## spekkio

Quote: 





ktm said:


> I've got 202 and the same amp. If you find it too bright, then it's time to re-cap the amp.


 


  Getting on to it. Just found out the amp is still using the old capacitors and it's an A model haha.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


ellipsis said:


> Hi, does anyone know where to audit sr-009?
> I live in Los Angeles but I found no audio store selling stax...


 

http://www.elusivedisc.com/
http://www.wooaudio.com/


----------



## immtbiker

I bought and sold the O2's MkI twice and really wasn't happy with them, because although the had incredible detail, I felt that they were lethargic and lacked visceral bass. The famous Stax "fart" didn't help either. I enjoy the aggressiveness and liveliness of the Jade (I was one of the lucky ones who has had one since inception and have been lucky enough not to have any problems with them). I also owned the Omega 1's (just sold them due to financial constraints) and the still own the SR-Lambda Pros from the 80's which are one of the best deals in the biz.
   
  I do my listening thru my Blue Hawaii and today I got a pair of SR-009's on loan. While they sound amazing, I do not believe that they should cost more than twice the O2's but everything is relative. I feel that they are a 15-20% improvement over the O2's The bass is noticeably improved and the detail, which has always been the O2's strong point, is definitely improved. They are quite comfortable and have real leather wherever the pads touch your body. But, at the risk of being redundant, and taking into account the law of diminishing returns, the headphones should cost $3K not $5200K. Of course that is my opinion. I feel that the detail of the HE-90's is better, but the 90's are truly bass shy (although I got noticeable bass improvement using the Aristaeus).
   
  However, until Head-Direct get back into the stat department (which I heard will be soon), unfortunately, the SR-009's are the best overall stat available (if you can truly say available). But $5200??? What. They probably cost less than $500 to produce and distribute.


----------



## immtbiker

Quote: 





ellipsis said:


> Hi, does anyone know where to audit sr-009?
> I live in Los Angeles but I found no audio store selling stax...


 

 Isn't Yamasinc (Stax only US distributor) in southern CA?


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> However, until Head-Direct get back into the stat department (which I heard will be soon), unfortunately, the SR-009's are the best overall stat available (if you can truly say available). But $5200??? What. They probably cost less than $500 to produce and distribute.


 
   
  You make the SR-009 sound like it's cheaply made. If that was your intention, then I must say I find that quite ironic given that the HeAudio Jades are some of the absolute WORST headphones I've ever owned in terms of build quality.
   
  I'm not trying to be inflammatory, just sharing my own experience. And based on that experience I'd never buy anything made by HeAudio again. Head-Direct itself is another matter though; their Hifiman products are solid.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> I bought and sold the O2's MkI twice and really wasn't happy with them, because although the had incredible detail, I felt that they were lethargic and lacked visceral bass. The famous Stax "fart" didn't help either. I enjoy the aggressiveness and liveliness of the Jade (I was one of the lucky ones who has had one since inception and have been lucky enough not to have any problems with them). I also owned the Omega 1's (just sold them due to financial constraints) and the still own the SR-Lambda Pros from the 80's which are one of the best deals in the biz.
> 
> I do my listening thru my Blue Hawaii and today I got a pair of SR-009's on loan. While they sound amazing, I do not believe that they should cost more than twice the O2's but everything is relative. I feel that they are a 15-20% improvement over the O2's The bass is noticeably improved and the detail, which has always been the O2's strong point, is definitely improved. They are quite comfortable and have real leather wherever the pads touch your body. But, at the risk of being redundant, and taking into account the law of diminishing returns, the headphones should cost $3K not $5200K. Of course that is my opinion. I feel that the detail of the HE-90's is better, but the 90's are truly bass shy (although I got noticeable bass improvement using the Aristaeus).
> 
> However, until Head-Direct get back into the stat department (which I heard will be soon), unfortunately, the SR-009's are the best overall stat available (if you can truly say available). But $5200??? What. They probably cost less than $500 to produce and distribute.


 

 We're all entitled to our opinion regarding headphone pricing, but what makes you come up so strongly with a 500USD cost? Did you at least have the 009 in your hands to be able to tell this? I feel like beating a dead horse but:
   
  1. Street price is 350,000jpy in japan, which is 4500usd
  2. We can't blame everything on Stax: the exchange rate against USD is at its worst ever, this headphone would be 3000usd if sold in 2007
  3. Although 350,000 is indeed too expensive, at least the 009 feels like a much better constructed/finished product than the omega 2
  4. Stax claimed that the cost of manufacturing for the stator of the 009 is something like 5 or 10x higher than previous models ( http://www.head-fi.org/t/531743/new-listening-impressions-of-stax-c32-prototype-and-shipping-sr-009/90#post_7178310 )
  5. I learned from Stax last week that the 009 was 3 years in development, you don't seem to be aware of the cost of amortization on headphones with very small production series?
  6. All the parts from the 009 are manufactured in Japan as well as the assembly. The finish of the product does not lie and there is a certain cost associated to this.


----------



## Elysian

I think the standard electronics BOM:MSRP ratio is generally 1:10?  The rest goes into R&D, overhead, supply chain, taxes, etc.  I wonder how this ratio varies for the flagships for Stax, Grado, Sennheiser, Sony, Ultrasone, etc.  In various other industries, the financial planning for mass production vs. flagship models can vary quite a bit.
   
  I was a bit mixed about the build quality on the SR009.  It didn't have the robustness the SR007 has, and I like the SR007's fitting more than the SR009.  Granted, some of that might be due to the SR009 feeling lighter than the SR007, and my concern at not wanting to damage someone else's $5200 headphones   I liked the SR009 build quality quite a bit more than the HD800 and LCD2R2, though.  Nothing negative about the SR009's build quality stood out enough to distract from the price tag and sound quality.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I think the standard electronics BOM:MSRP ratio is generally 1:10?


 

 Got a cite for this? I'd love to see it. I'm pretty interested in pricing models.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I think part of it is that the SR=007's don't reach their potential with SRM-T1  or SRM-1 MK II. So, I'm building a DIY T2. Should be finished by Feb. or so.  And that should be better, and bring out more of the SRM-007's potential, but I bet it STILL won't meet my very high expectations.  Somehow the very high standard set by my Lambda has caused my expectations to be VERY high for the SR-007's.
> 
> [Yeah, my home-made DIY T2  will either bring out more of the SR-007's potential or it will burn my house down when I first plug it in....
> 
> ...


 

  
  Hi Milosz,
   
  I can guarantee you that you will love your SR007 a lot more after you have paired it with your T2.  T2 is a really powerful amp, and it really brings out what SR007 can do.  
   

   
  T2 even makes my DIY headphones sing a whole lot sweeter too.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I would say the SR009 sounds like a mix between the Omega and Omega2.  In terms of tonality, the 009 is the most neutral I've heard, the Omega is a little on the bright side, and the Omega2 is a little on the dark side.  The Omega and 009 are pretty similar in size of soundstage, both clearly larger than that of the O2.  Bass on the 009 doesn't have as much slam as the O2 in the midbass region, but the extension is fantastic and probably the best of any electrostat (similar to LCD2 in extension).  Imaging is of the pinpoint variety similar to the O2, but the size of the images is larger than the O2 and smaller than the Omega.  Speed and detail seems pretty similar among the three, though the 009 is probably a bit more detailed than the other two.


 


 "A little more of this... and a little less of that... and about the same" - sure doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement for phones that command a $3500 premium... which is the issue I have with the Stax phones overall.  They just aren't that much better than the alternatives - though the 507's (and I suppose the other Lambdas) are close.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> "A little more of this... and a little less of that... and about the same" - sure doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement for phones that command a $3500 premium... which is the issue I have with the Stax phones overall.  They just aren't that much better than the alternatives - though the 507's (and I suppose the other Lambdas) are close.


 

 If you want Stax at a low price, start shopping around for vintage Lambdas and amps. That'll get you most of the way there with significantly less wallet pain. Of course, you're at the mercy of the used market that way, but that's just how it is.
   
  Most people here talk about the flagships likely because it's the high-end audio forum, but who's to say you can't still enjoy the more affordable stuff like the original SR-Lambda or the SR-202?


----------



## pigmode

Quote: 





duggeh said:


> I concur with n3rdling.
> 
> I've owned the O2/717 combo for 5 and a half years, it makes superb music.
> 
> The BHSE is better, but also different. And of course, *big *money.


 


   
  I was pretty blown away years ago when I listened to Vertigo 2's O2/717. I can definitely see myself moving in that direction.


----------



## immtbiker

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> You make the SR-009 sound like it's cheaply made. If that was your intention, then I must say I find that quite ironic given that the HeAudio Jades are some of the absolute WORST headphones I've ever owned in terms of build quality.
> 
> I'm not trying to be inflammatory, just sharing my own experience. And based on that experience I'd never buy anything made by HeAudio again. Head-Direct itself is another matter though; their Hifiman products are solid.


 

 My Jades are over 4 years old, and have never had a single build issue with them. You say the Jades are some of the absolute worst headphones you've ever owned in terms of build quality. That's a mighty bold statement. It's also an absolute statement. I have owned multiple headphones that had a worse build quality than the Jades. Admittedly so, HeAudio was a one man operation and the headphones were hand built, but the innovation for the price was a huge stepping stone for future things to come. We are talking about a headphone that cost $999.00 compared to $5200 or $4200. The HD800's are innovative in every aspect of it's design and build, with materials used and designs introduced that were new-ish to the market and they cost $1500. Have you looked at a Stax SR-Lamda Pro or a 303 or a 404. They sound great, but the build quality and the plastic used and the suede headbands leave a lot to be desired.
   


  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> We're all entitled to our opinion regarding headphone pricing, but what makes you come up so strongly with a 500USD cost? Did you at least have the 009 in your hands to be able to tell this? I feel like beating a dead horse but:
> 
> 1. Street price is 350,000jpy in japan, which is 4500usd
> 2. We can't blame everything on Stax: the exchange rate against USD is at its worst ever, this headphone would be 3000usd if sold in 2007
> ...


 

 I understand and agree with everything that you say, buy $5200 USD? That's just insane. I'm not saying that I would never buy them, but the law of demising returns comes into serious play here. In order for Yamasinc to charge $5200 for them, usually means that they pay around $2500 for them, in order to make their 100% profit, which also means that it probably costs Stax ~$500-1000 to build plus the need to factor in R&D. 
  Look, I owned a pair of $2500 R-10's that I paid $4200 new for when the second batch came out, and sold for much more than that because of what the going rate was at the time. However, can anyone truly believe that they were really worth $4200 monetarily? Maybe, that's what they are worth to me to put a huge smile on my face (like an $8 Heineken in a Gentlemen's Club), but physically costing $4200? No way.
  It's all relative. Whether you speak of diamonds or a $4 cup of coffee, everyone has to make a decision whether or not it's worth the asking price to themselves. However, what it actually cost to make is a different story.
   
  Just like a bunch of athletes running around in pajamas with a big orange ball, or swinging some piece of wood, making multiple millions of dollars a year. Is that really what they're worth? Yes, if you factor in how much money they bring in at the box office and what endorsements get in sales based upon their notoriety, then yes. But is one tall man who can dunk a basketball worth thousands of times more money, then a classical guitarist with talent that maybe a 100 people in the world have, who plays for change under an overpass? No way. But the man in pajamas played the game of life better and smarter than the man under the overpass and life pays more money to someone who is born pretty and can walk down a runway in a designer dress than a talented person who followed a path that his/her heart led them down, rather than being in the right place at the right time.
   
  Look at my profile. I own insanely overpriced, expensive things. But my main point is that they might not all even come close to being worth what they cost. We've been waiting a long time for a new stat to come out and we are very hungry. When we go to the supermarket hungry, we buy a lot of things we wouldn't buy if we were full. 
   
  Me included.


----------



## Elysian

Quote:


tmoney said:


> Got a cite for this? I'd love to see it. I'm pretty interested in pricing models.


 

 Nothing official, but I'd be interested in seeing a citation too.  I'm just quoting what I've heard from people who say they work in ops and know the audiophile market, but it's nothing nearly as definitive as an iSuppli or Gartner report.  I could quote people on other forums but it wouldn't hold a lot of weight.
   
  My experience in mass production consumer electronics and energy is seeing a BOM anywhere from 30-80%+ (the higher-end usually means there's either a leasing or support business model factored in, or the company is taking a loss to get its product out there).  Apple's iPad 2 is between 45-65% (based on how much you get ripped off on NAND flash at 16/32/64GB).  Kindle Fire estimates are around 75%, though that's not confirmed yet.
   
  Purely as a hypothetical, I'd imagine 10-20% for high-end audio companies (Shunyata, Esoteric, etc.) wouldn't be a stretch given the particularly low margins of the business.  Sennheiser probably operates closer to market as a $645m (2010) revenue company, and I'd be surprised if flagships make up more than a low single-digit percentage of that.  There is probably a lot of good brand justification of having a flagship (same reason BMW and Audi have their high-end models which are often a small/tiny fraction of their overall sales), and they could either be handling the flagship as a very high margin luxury item, or as something to just make sure people recognize that they are the best while understanding the majority of its headphone business sales are in the $50-300 models at the real street price.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> My Jades are over 4 years old, and have never had a single build issue with them. You say the Jades are some of the absolute worst headphones you've ever owned in terms of build quality. That's a mighty bold statement. It's also an absolute statement. I have owned multiple headphones that had a worse build quality than the Jades. Admittedly so, HeAudio was a one man operation and the headphones were hand built, but the innovation for the price was a huge stepping stone for future things to come. We are talking about a headphone that cost $999.00 compared to $5200 or $4200. The HD800's are innovative in every aspect of it's design and build, with materials used and designs introduced that were new-ish to the market and they cost $1500. Have you looked at a Stax SR-Lamda Pro or a 303 or a 404. They sound great, but the build quality and the plastic used and the suede headbands leave a lot to be desired.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


   
  Aaron just my 2c, but I think the best thing to do here is vote with your wallet. I too think $5200 is just too much money for headphones, and I won't be buying them. For that money I could pay for my ESL63s and a very nice used OTL amp like an Atma-Sphere which will give me more enjoyment.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Got a cite for this? I'd love to see it. I'm pretty interested in pricing models.


 

 Cost to retail for "electronics" is so general that I think it's impossible to definitively say any number. Apple's build cost on the iPhone4S is somewhere around $200, so they make 3-1 on unlocked phones. Margins for the Android makers are lower. Amazon actually takes a loss on the Kindle Fire. Even just with audio, margins are going to vary a lot depending on the size of the operation and the market. Obviously margins will be much tighter selling $100/pr speakers than $100,000/pr speakers.
   
  I'd be curious at what the margins are at a direct to consumer operation like Tyler Acoustics, vs. one of his competitors that sells through traditional dealer networks.


----------



## Elysian

Fwiw, EETimes cited a report by UBM disagreeing with common wisdom that Amazon is selling the Kindle Fire at a loss.  I'm not familiar with UBM's analysts so I can't speak to their accuracy.
  http://www.eetimes.com/electronics-news/4228505/Kindle-Fire-profitable-at-estimated--150-BoM
   
  Usually video game consoles get cited as common loss leaders.
   
  Anyway, I've wondered for awhile what kind of margins an outfit like Manley Labs sees, with 50+ employees, but not a whole lot of marketing and advertising going on.  It was pretty remarkable to hear that Stax is just 10 employees, but I'm really impressed by the quality that goes into the SR007 and SR009.  The HD800 seemed overly plastic to me, and I've read about a few LCD2s with cracked wood.  Certainly see a lot more Stax gear on the Japan online market than Manley gear on the US online market.


----------



## arnaud

It seems like there will be criticiscm no matter the scenario:
  - If Stax had used plastic or some other cheaper construction for the 009, probably someone would complain that Stax is not interested in creating truly high end product (like the current complain with their amps)
  - This time it looks like some complain that the product is too expensive: true, 5kUSD is unreal but, at least, I am pretty convinced Stax is not price gouging but really tried to push the performance enveloppe.
   
  This is infortunate but, as Elysian said, I also learned from small high end audio maker (while I was doing internship there) that for low volume product, the retail price must be 6 or 7x BOM for a traditional sale process (distributor, retail stores).
   
  Stax is like 10 people and selling in the hundreds / few thousand units a year. They is no way they can market a flagship without significant margin as I am pretty sure they need all income to make a living. A large company whose bread and butter is large volume sales or more mainstream products may not need to consider the profits on its flagship, but Stax does not have this luxury I am afraid...


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> "A little more of this... and a little less of that... and about the same" - sure doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement for phones that command a $3500 premium... which is the issue I have with the Stax phones overall.  They just aren't that much better than the alternatives - though the 507's (and I suppose the other Lambdas) are close.


 


  Every headphone is gonna have a little more of something and a little less of something...I just posted that way to give people an idea of the sound of the headphone without injecting my personal tastes.  To me the SR009 is probably the best overall (in terms of performance for all genres) headphone ever if you want to know what I personally think of it.
   
  Aaron, I don't think the Lambda is a very good example of poor build quality considering they are some of the most durable headphones ever made   Keep them in the proper environment and they should last forever.


----------



## The Monkey

A lot of nonsense in this thread.  Stax is the best at any cost.  I hope that settles that. 
   
   
  Like others above, I find the economics of the industry pretty interesting.  Are there any trade publications/reports focusing on the headphone market?  Probably too niche/granular, but I would be interested if anyone has some links/sources.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> A lot of nonsense in this thread.  Stax is the best at any cost.  I hope that settles that.


 

 HE90 and HE60 owners may disagree.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Hi Milosz,
> 
> I can guarantee you that you will love your SR007 a lot more after you have paired it with your T2.  T2 is a really powerful amp, and it really brings out what SR007 can do.
> 
> ...


 

 I cannot judge the scale/size, but are those EL34's in the T2?  Serious and oh so sweet sounding tubes.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





			
				The Monkey said:
			
		

> A lot of nonsense in this thread.  Stax is the best at any cost.  I hope that settles that.


 
  Quote: 





pabbi1 said:


> HE90 and HE60 owners may disagree.


 


  I totally agree with pabbi1 - I love my Stax, but my recent acquisition of a pair of HE60 has confirmed their stature.
  As Darrell (Storage Wars) would say - these ARE the 'wow factor'!


----------



## NamelessPFG

But you three would agree that "Electrostatics are the best at any cost", right? They still have that thread in common.
   
  For that matter, where does the Koss ESP/950 stand, either with the stock E/90 amp or driven by a Stax amp with adapter?


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





charliex said:


> I totally agree with pabbi1 - I love my Stax, but my recent acquisition of a pair of HE60 has confirmed their stature.
> As Darrell (Storage Wars) would say - these ARE the 'wow factor'!


 


   


  Quote: 





pabbi1 said:


> HE90 and HE60 owners may disagree.


 


  Why does it seem no one on head-fi has a sense of humor?


----------



## pabbi1

Humor diminishes with postcount... and statements without inflection ( :facepalm: ) often get ridiculous retorts - over and over. The truly humorous part is that some people believe what was originally stated, and seemed bait more for the planar crowd... or somesuch. 
   
  WRT Koss, they sound really good when biased to 620v on a good amp (which excludes anything shipped by Koss), but have this annoying failure rate (tick, tick, tick) that keeps them from being a real contender... IMO


----------



## NamelessPFG

Failure rate? Has anyone figured out what, exactly, causes it in the headphone's construction? (It's a good thing Koss offers a lifetime warranty; if that's as much a problem as you make it out to be, it'll be necessary.)
   
  I also know of no production amps that have a 620V bias in stock form (especially when the vast majority of electrostatic amps are Stax-made and they use only 580V for Pro bias), which probably means it's an ExStatA or a KGSS or something else along those lines, unless someone's willing to tinker with a production Stax amp for whatever reason.
   
  Also, one more question: should anything go wrong with the drivers, is there anyone out there that's skilled enough to rebuild them?


----------



## jaycalgary

Somebody just did pretty good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SRM-727A-SR-Gamma-Pro-/280765197372?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item415ee8ec3c&autorefresh=true


----------



## immtbiker

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Aaron, I don't think the Lambda is a very good example of poor build quality considering they are some of the most durable headphones ever made   Keep them in the proper environment and they should last forever.


 

 After so many years and meets and owners, mine are still holding up fine. But they sort of look like a 75 year old naked man in the gym locker room (there's some cognitive humor for you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





), standing next to 20 year olds.
  They still have something interesting to say, but they are real tired. Or, as they say in blues songs "t-y-r-d", tired.
   
  BTW- I had no idea that Stax had such a low employee count. But as was stated in a previous post, if they are going to come out with a new flagship, and only they sell 500-1000 per year (or whatever the number is), you can bet that they price point was set to offshoot the R&D cost (some of the money was probably obtained by revamping the O2's to Mk.II and tweaks to the amp to hold them over and invest in newer technology) and to make sure that their employees are showing a handsome profit. If the headphones cost $2500, there would probably still be a nice chunk of profit, but make them $4200 in Southeast Asia, and the employees and owners can still live in the manner that they are accustomed to. Of course, this is all IMHO, however, I sold audio and video while going to college, both wholesale and retail, and I can say from experience that the markup can be pretty excessive. The extended warranties they try to sell you at the register was 80% profit in *my* pocket. So few consumers ever exercise the warranty that the brick and mortars can incent their salespeople with getting the lion's share of the warranty. Usually, it's never worth it to buy it. As with the Manley Steelhead Phono Stage, it's unfortunate but true that more people will buy it at $7200 than $5000. I know for a fact that that is a credo in the biz.
   
  Other industries, especially in major metropolitan areas like where I live, like the car dealers, there isn't a whole lot of profit in the vehicle themselves. My friend is a high end car dealer and told me they make very little on the actual car. Where the money is made, is buy selling larger amounts of cars which they then get a percentage off on the next batch at delivery time, and the insane money they make on mud flaps, floor mats, alarm systems and all the other things they "high pressure sell you" when you go to pick up your shiny new car, and your salesperson vanishes and they pull you into the closed room with the seriously Type-A "best salesperson they have" and they try to sell you every accessory under the sun. That's pure profit.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> My Jades are over 4 years old, and have never had a single build issue with them. *You say the Jades are some of the absolute worst headphones you've ever owned in terms of build quality. That's a mighty bold statement. It's also an absolute statement.* I have owned multiple headphones that had a worse build quality than the Jades. Admittedly so, HeAudio was a one man operation and the headphones were hand built, but the innovation for the price was a huge stepping stone for future things to come. We are talking about a headphone that cost $999.00 compared to $5200 or $4200. The HD800's are innovative in every aspect of it's design and build, with materials used and designs introduced that were new-ish to the market and they cost $1500. Have you looked at a Stax SR-Lamda Pro or a 303 or a 404. They sound great, but the build quality and the plastic used and the suede headbands leave a lot to be desired.


 

 Are we SO paranoid about absolutes here on head-fi that we balk now when people are speaking of their own experiences in absolutes? That's ridiculous! I said in my post that they are the worst that I have owned. That implies subjectivity already. Do you want me to say, "*among* the worst that I've owned?" Or "*maybe* the worst that I've owned?" The first creates a bunch of phantom headphones to surround the Jades, the latter implies I don't know what goes on in my own life, or that I'm paranoid I'm living in some Matrix world that may not exist.
   
  My Stax 404s are still working fine. My Jades are so bad, I can't listen to them due to the hissing and crackling that develops in them. Maybe that's because I'm in a humid or dusty environment? Fine. But the humidity hasn't affected any of my Stax. I also can't really take my Jades apart as easily as my Stax if I have a problem. In fact, I wouldn't even dream of trying. I'd probably destroy them.
   
  It's great that Jade owners like their headphones. As I said in the Jade thread, I think it's important that those who have had issues speak up however, without being accused of trying to be devious. And yes: I speak in absolutes when I talk about my experience with things. I'm pretty sure that these events have actually happened. By virtue of it being MY personal experience though, the subjective nature of it is implied. I never said "ALL Jades are bad!" did I?


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Are we SO paranoid about absolutes here on head-fi that we balk now when people are speaking of their own experiences in absolutes? That's ridiculous!


 


   
  Not ridiculous at all. You insulted his favourite headphones, man! Pistols at dawn is the only way to solve this......


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Somebody just did pretty good.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SRM-727A-SR-Gamma-Pro-/280765197372?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item415ee8ec3c&autorefresh=true


 

 I was watching that. Broke my heart I couldn't afford to bid! Lucky guy whoever it was...


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Not ridiculous at all. You insulted his favourite headphones, man! Pistols at dawn is the only way to solve this......


 


  I'll say something nice about the Jade, then. I do think they sound rather lush and musical. At least, they did before the hissing and crackling got too loud.
   
  And having more stats on the market is a good thing.


----------



## ujamerstand

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Not ridiculous at all. You insulted his favourite headphones, man! Pistols at dawn is the only way to solve this......


 

 You just gave me an mental image of two cowboys drawing at dawn, shooting sound waves at each other with their headphones...


----------



## charliex

jaycalgary said:
			
		

> Somebody just did pretty good.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SRM-727A-SR-Gamma-Pro-/280765197372?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item415ee8ec3c&autorefresh=true


  Quote: 





eddiee said:


> I was watching that. Broke my heart I couldn't afford to bid! Lucky guy whoever it was...


 


  Likewise - I would have bid if it wasn't for the fact that hey were 240v standard and not North American.


----------



## NamelessPFG

That's a good price for that eBay auction? While the exchange rate certainly doesn't favor us Americans any, my wallet already feels achy without having spent a cent on it.
   
  There's another eBay auction about to end today that also includes an SR-Gamma Pro, but it has this strange-looking SRM-310 amp I've never seen before. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-Gamma-Pro-Stax-SRM-310-electrostatic-headphones-/150687328320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2315aa2840#ht_9578wt_1396 Too bad it's 240V...
   
  For that matter, I'm remembering this one time when an allegedly new-old-stock SR-202 slipped by on eBay without a bid. I might have bid on it had I not already acquired my Lambda setup already, and the fact that it didn't have a Pro bias driver unit to go with it didn't help matters.


----------



## livewire

If you hadn't already noticed, the SRM-310 was designed that way to also double as a headphone stand.
  I've heard that it sounds ok, but is rather gutless. Only good for moderately pushing Lambdas.
  IIRC, 300V rails -  basically a SRM-252 board assembly tipped up a bit with an integral power supply.


----------



## immtbiker

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Are we SO paranoid about absolutes here on head-fi that we balk now when people are speaking of their own experiences in absolutes? That's ridiculous! I said in my post that they are the worst that I have owned. That implies subjectivity already. Do you want me to say, "*among* the worst that I've owned?" Or "*maybe* the worst that I've owned?" The first creates a bunch of phantom headphones to surround the Jades, the latter implies I don't know what goes on in my own life, or that I'm paranoid I'm living in some Matrix world that may not exist.
> 
> My Stax 404s are still working fine. My Jades are so bad, I can't listen to them due to the hissing and crackling that develops in them. Maybe that's because I'm in a humid or dusty environment? Fine. But the humidity hasn't affected any of my Stax. I also can't really take my Jades apart as easily as my Stax if I have a problem. In fact, I wouldn't even dream of trying. I'd probably destroy them.
> 
> It's great that Jade owners like their headphones. As I said in the Jade thread, I think it's important that those who have had issues speak up however, without being accused of trying to be devious. And yes: I speak in absolutes when I talk about my experience with things. I'm pretty sure that these events have actually happened. By virtue of it being MY personal experience though, the subjective nature of it is implied. I never said "ALL Jades are bad!" did I?


 
  There's a lot of anger in your post. This all started because I said that I felt that the SR-009's were too expensive. When you say " the worst that I've ever owned" factually, that *is* an absolute statement. If you would have said, "one of the worst" then it would have been a different story. Man, I've seen some pricey Grados that have worse quality control (glue everywhere, cheap look cables that twist and pinch, and $1500 headphone that come in Pizza boxes) than HeAudio which is a one man organization. This headphone was invented when Fang was mostly a distributor of other people's products and hired Mr. He to build an electrostat. Now Fang owns 2 factories just for his own product, invents and creates his own designs and has engineers and mechanical engineers that work exclusively for him, along with the fact that he moved to China to make sure that he is in total control of what leaves his factories. So, I believe when he heads back in to the electrostat foray, we will see some competitive equipment at reasonable prices.
  Japan is slowly becoming what the US and other countries have become. A country that is vending out it's builds to China. This is a bit of a shame because for decades, Japan has innovated and produced some of the finest electronics that we have seen in our lifetime. The earthquake and Tsunami will multiply that move. It's inevitable. Casio watches that say "Made in China" on it. Talk about seeing the writing on the wall. Independent countries will never be able to fix their own economies (look at Greece right now), until they produce their own products in their own countries and offer internal employment opportunities. Even Grado is getting a lot of their parts from China and that is why there is such a huge difference between Joe Grado and John Grado products.
  
   
      Quote:


beefy said:


> Not ridiculous at all. You insulted his favourite headphones, man! Pistols at dawn is the only way to solve this......


 
  Not necessarily my all time favorite headphones, but ones that *do* give me a great deal of joy. I grew up in the '70's hippie days. My pistols at dawn is the equivalent of me turning on the power switch on my Lava lamp so when it gets warmed up, I can say "Wow, check it out, dude". My first name might be Aaron, but my second name is not Burr (who ironically had a dawn pistol duel with Alexander Hamilton).
   

  
  Look, Stax has rewarded us with many wonderful products and has historically changed the way that we listen to headphones, but my main point is that they are charging an exorbitant amount of money for the 009's. 
  I will own a pair, because they are the best sounding stats available, but as with other audio products, and as Jimmy McMillan has loudly said (including a parody on Saturday Night live), "The Rent Is Too Damn High"!


----------



## jaycalgary

"Japan is slowly becoming what the US and other countries have become. A country that is vending out it's builds to China."
009's are made in China?


----------



## n3rdling

No


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> "Japan is slowly becoming what the US and other countries have become. A country that is vending out it's builds to China."
> 009's are made in China?


 

 Do you sometimes read the threads before posting your valuable inputs?


----------



## pabbi1

N/m


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> There's a lot of anger in your post. This all started because I said that I felt that the SR-009's were too expensive. When you say " the worst that I've ever owned" factually, that *is* an absolute statement. If you would have said, "one of the worst" then it would have been a different story.


 

  
  Perhaps you are mistaking my enthusiasm for anger. If anything, my mood upon writing was more akin to astonishment, as in astonishment that someone could reasonably tell me I can't speak of my own experiences with certainty. I have owned a finite number of headphones thus far, and thus far only two pairs of said headphones are no longer listenable. In the case of the other, it was entirely my fault for rendering them as such. In the case of the Jades, I did nothing out of the ordinary. So yes, the HeAudio Jade is the worst pair of headphones I have owned in terms of quality (by contrast, I said nothing but positive things about the sound signature).
   
  Did I say all Jades were bad? No. That would have been an absolute statement. My particular Jade is ONE example of the product, and by speaking of my ownership experience of that ONE example, I am not speaking in an absolute way about the Jade product. Furthermore, it's fairly obvious that anything I say should be taken as my relative experience. That is implied by the very nature of my being an individual.
   
   
  Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> However, until Head-Direct get back into the stat department (which I heard will be soon), unfortunately, *the SR-009's are the best overall stat available* (if you can truly say available). But $5200??? What. They probably cost less than $500 to produce and distribute.






  I think you mean "*among* the best," right?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Hi Milosz,
> 
> I can guarantee you that you will love your SR007 a lot more after you have paired it with your T2.  T2 is a really powerful amp, and it really brings out what SR007 can do.


 
  WOW!!!!!!!  That looks really great!
   
  Mine won't be finished for a while.  February probably.


----------



## immtbiker

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I think you mean "*among* the best," right?


 
  No MF, I do believe that these are the best stats available today. They are just so much mula. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The staging is dead on, and while I wish the bass was a little more impactful, after
  years spent with the HE-90's, I've come to the realization, that without being able to push around large amounts of air, visceral bass is going to be, and always will be, a stat's weakness. 
  But the slam….damn. I have the T-1's and the HE-6 for color and showmanship (although the T-1's are pretty neutral), I can see the 009's taking it's rightful place in the HE-90 hierarchy. 
  Like previously posted, there is give and take to all cans, there is no one "perfect" all around can, but the 009's have most of the attributes to topple most competition.
   
  However, "The Rent Is Too Damn High". But I think I can get over the dip in the "Immtbiker stock portfolio" (non-existent) a year from now. These are a long term capital gain. I'm pretty sure that they will
  hold their value. And like the overpriced Heineken at a Gentleman's club (not that I've ever been to one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) they do put a big smile on my face. Bank of America, eat your heart out. If I don't pay
  the $5/month ATM fee, I can make my money back in 1000 months


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *immtbiker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I've come to the realization, that without being able to push around large amounts of air, visceral bass is going to be, and always will be, a stat's weakness.
> But the slam….damn.


 
   
  It's not a cost-effective solution, but adding a 300B preamp (thank you kiertijai for the suggestion), some NOS tubes, and a Wavelength WaveLink have completely eliminated all of my complaints about lack of bass and soundstaging on stats.  The only headphone bass which I've heard that's better is a BA+HD800.  Maybe the LCD2 R2, too, but I liked the HD800 more with the BA, and felt the HD800s handled the bass more gracefully.
   
  I'm defining good bass as sounding tight and well-defined, not the boomy, tubey, and muddy sound most people equate bass with.  Low to mid frequency notes are clean, start and stop with definitiveness, and have very good separation.  Even during very busy passages, one should be able to hear every note the drummer and bassist is conveying (even with how deemphasized bass guitar and some percussion is in many rock/metal recordings).  I may have a different definition of bass than many people, which is understandable since I used to spend a lot of time in the rave and club scene.  I'm thinking most people think bass = ghetto blasters.
   
  The BA seems to put you in a middle of a stage, while my setup has a very forward presentation.  The only upgrades I'm waiting on is the BHSE, followed by swapping my stock 300B tubes with a quad of Psvane 300B-Ts.  Honestly, my rig, to my ears right now, is so flat-out amazing that I'm not sure what the BHSE will do for me, so I can't wait for hear what everyone's been raving about!  I'll be trying the BHSE with and without the preamp to see what I like more, but I suspect I'll keep the preamp in for that 300B soundstage and bass definition.
   
  Fwiw, I've gone overkill on my headphone setup since most of this will be transferred into a speaker rig in a few years, but there's a rather convincing person in my life right now that forbids me from having speakers.
   
  I will say, though, that BADA -> GES (tube rolled) -> SR007A has anemic bass in comparison to an awesome dynamic setup with tubes, but stats just have that detail and the sensation of music effortlessly materializing out of thin air.


----------



## n3rdling

I personally don't understand the rationale behind using a 300B amp as a preamp for a BHSE.  Isn't the BHSE about getting the cleanest, most transparent amplification for your stats?  Why would you throw in a bunch of distortion into the mix by using another amp to control the volume?  Why even get the RK50 option if you're going to essentially bypass the volume pot in this configuration anyways?  Might as well save the money and use a single 'tubey' amp if that's the sound you're after.
   
  If your O2s have anemic bass there is likely something seriously wrong with your set (maybe SZ3?) or the fit.  You want to have a perfect seal around the ear, so the stitching on the pads should be facing forwards.  You can also bend the metal arcs to accomodate the size of your head if yours is outside the norm.


----------



## livewire

Different strokes for different folks...
   
  Elysian, have you heard a BHSE yet?


----------



## Elysian

My preamp is only a preamp (linestage and phonostage).  It doesn't even have a headphone out jack.  It's generally supposed to pair with speaker power amps, but works fine with headphone amps per impedance matching.
   
  Anyway, I'm not saying that this is the best way to do things.  I'm just posting to let people know there's another option out there that might work for some people per the sound they're trying to achieve.  If I was currently going for a purely transparent setup, I would drop the preamp and let my DAC do the preamping, though a Placette or W4S passive preamp are interesting based on what I've heard from others.
   
  I may get bored with this down the road and want to go with a completely transparent headphone chain, but for now, I'm pretty happy with this.  I like the RK50 in case I decide to bypass the preamp in the future, and basically consider it like getting extras with a new car.  The BHSE itself was a splurge, so I wanted it fully loaded.
   
  Yeah, the O2s are interesting about how they can sound very different on how they're positioned, as well as the seal.  Anemic may be a bit of an exaggeration on my part, but it was lacking enough that it was bothering me at times.
   
  livewire: Not yet.  Unfortunately I missed the socal meet, and no one I've spoken to in norcal has an end-game stat amp (with only one DIY T2 in the works).  I'm not holding my breath about Justin finishing batch 2 before the Feb Bay Area meet, but if it does get finished in time, I'm hoping to block out some time to bring it so people can listen.


----------



## immtbiker

I am totally against equalization (to each his own), because I feel it induces some sort of distortion, and if you have any type of decent equipment,
  I would prefer to hear my music the way that the artist and engineer intended it to be. On a 5-band graphic equalizer (you know, the type that we older
  folks were taught to form the 5 bands in a shape of a "U" with the upper parts of the "U" in the 20-100hZ and 10Khz to 20KhZ range).In a 5 band equalizer,
  the left most slider is usually form 20hZ to 100hZ. This is true bass. The second one from the left, is what gives you the "boom"…usually wobbly.
   
  If you have a headphone that feels "bass-lite" to you, and you use an equalizer, you would want to increase the left-most slider to where you achieve the
  sound (or close to it) to compensate for the lack of bass portrayal that certain headphones are missing. But, you never want to increase the second slider
  from the left, and I'm ball parking here, but it goes approximately from 100kHz to 500hZ. This is the "boom". It creates such a wavelength that actually interferes
  with the bass and the third slider (which is your midrange and female vocals). Like have an improperly home speaker setup, the second slider actually interferes with
  and cancels the bass. It's only boom. Try it one day. Play some music with a lot of bass and raise the second slider, listen for a while, then lower it 1 or 2 steps
  below 0 on the X axis. You will be amazed how it completely clears up the bass register, and just plain, leaves the music alone.
   
  So when someones says they hear wobbly bass, especially in a closed back headphone like the Denon 2000/5000/7000's, it's either going to be that the bass has
  nowhere to go, reverberates and messes with the other frequencies, or, if you have an equalizer (ooh, perish the thought 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) you can undermine this cause and effect.
  This is why an open back headphone is usually preferable, and dominates our entry level to high end cans in our hobby, but as with all good things, the 2 downsides
  are leakage and the ability to hear the ambient noise surrounding you.
   
  I had my Denon ADH 7000's rewired inside and out, plus balanced, by member Yikes, who was the Northeast salesman for Siltech. The wire alone is a $Grand. However,
  the better cabling, controlled the bass and just made it an overall better headphone.
   
  Anyone who doesn't believe in cabling, can hear a stock 7000 that move over to a Siltech re-cabled 7000. It will change your opinion on cables and your listening
  experience altogether. Could you imagine a closed back electrostat headphone? I don't think it would be that good.
   
  OK, I'm getting off of my soapbox now.


----------



## Elysian

Thanks for the recommendations immtbiker.  I'll give it a shot sometime, as I've experimented with various equalizers with Foobar and was never really satisfied with what it did to the sound.  Always felt like something was off to my ears, but it might be that I'm just used to hearing those particular tunes a certain way.  I've actually wanted to ask some bass equalization questions for awhile since there seem to be a lot of experienced folks here.
   
  I've also had bad luck with those equalizers that are supposed to simulate speaker soundstaging on headphones.  Tried many of the configurations that people suggested in the thread but none of it worked for me.  I've found that I don't mind equalizing as much on speakers or lower-end headphones, but I'm not fond of the effect for higher-end headphones.


----------



## milosz

I often use a little digital EQ- the operative concept here for me is A LITTLE
   
  For example:

 With my HD-800's I cut the 4 kHz some (~2.5 dB) and the 8 kHz just a bit (~1.2 dB)
 With my LCD-2's I add a tiny bit (0.8 dB) at 2 kHz, and 1 dB at 4 kHz.
 With my SR-007's  I add about 1 dB at 30 Hz
 HE-6's  maybe 1 dB cut at 4 kHz
   
  The 2.5 dB treble cut with the Sennheisers is the most EQ I use, and in fact I am somewhat uncomfortable using that much but the HD800s  are just _so bright_.....
   
  I find that using just a little EQ can help cut down on listening fatigue.
   
  Sometimes I DON'T use EQ.  For example, when doing any type of auditioning or A/B comparison- NO EQ!!!
   
  Also, sometimes I don't need it.  Using LCD-2's on my Audio-Gd NFB-10ES I don't really feel I need any EQ.


----------



## ZarakiSan

Just a quick tip on equalizing: Never boost anything, always bring things down. It's not good practice because you lower dynamics, sway closer to the clipping point, and reduce bit depth.


----------



## n3rdling

Elysian for some reason I thought you bought a BA to use as a preamp for your BHSE.  In any case, there should be an increasing number of very nice electrostat amps in the Bay Area over the next year or so.  I know at least one person is on the verge of having a DIYT2, another is getting a BHSE, and there are a few KGSSHVs that'll be cropping up there soon.  There's also FrankCooter


----------



## schorsch

Stax used much more equalization in their ED-1 
  only to make it switchable between "freefield" and diffusefield equalized.
  By the way there are lots of microphones out there who are not the least linear in what they catch...
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





zarakisan said:


> Just a quick tip on equalizing: Never boost anything, always bring things down. It's not good practice because you lower dynamics, sway closer to the clipping point, and reduce bit depth.


 


  Since DSP in my system is doing 24 bit math on 16 bit files, I think I can show mathematically that a few dB of boost will NOT reduce bit depth; the playback chain has ~100 dB of dynamics but the source recording probably less than 50 dB after all the stuff they do at recording and mastering sessions, so I doubt a few dB of boost is going to reduce dynamics; and, yes, you need to make sure you are not driving into digital clipping with excessive boost- or analog clipping, either, with the resulting signal - but my system gains all allow for some headroom and none of my amplifiers are ANYWHERE near clipping at any rational loudness level.
   
  I think the "never boost" concept is a holdover from old analog recording habits.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





immtbiker said:


> So when someones says they hear wobbly bass, especially in a closed back headphone like the Denon 2000/5000/7000's, it's either going to be that the bass has
> nowhere to go, reverberates and messes with the other frequencies, or, if you have an equalizer (ooh, perish the thought
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I'm also generally against EQ, as I want what I feel is the purest source to headphone sound possible. If you really need EQ, get better headphones. I'm all for modding the hell out of headphones though, as nearly everybody gets it wrong straight from the factory, Denon included. Re-cabling is definitely a good start, but you need JMoney pads and Lawton mods to really hear what those Foster drivers can actually do. The difference in measured response between the T50RP and the Thunderpants is nothing short of astonishing. No EQ could ever hope to match that.
   
  I don't agree that open back is always better. With dynamics it often is not, as many are so bass anemic that they are nearly useless except for classical and jazz. The R-10 makes a strong argument for being the best dynamic headphone ever made, and its closed.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I would say the SR009 sounds like a mix between the Omega and Omega2.  In terms of tonality, the 009 is the most neutral I've heard, the Omega is a little on the bright side, and the Omega2 is a little on the dark side.  The Omega and 009 are pretty similar in size of soundstage, both clearly larger than that of the O2.  Bass on the 009 doesn't have as much slam as the O2 in the midbass region, but the extension is fantastic and probably the best of any electrostat (similar to LCD2 in extension).  Imaging is of the pinpoint variety similar to the O2, but the size of the images is larger than the O2 and smaller than the Omega.  Speed and detail seems pretty similar among the three, though the 009 is probably a bit more detailed than the other two.


 


  Hi, mate. Sorry for the delayed reply but thanks heaps for the short comparison. Your post only reinforces my current plan to save up for the 009 although it's obviously going to take a while. 
   
  The 009 really sounds like a full-sized version of the Etymotic ER4 and if that's the case, do ****-ing want.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Elysian for some reason I thought you bought a BA to use as a preamp for your BHSE.  In any case, there should be an increasing number of very nice electrostat amps in the Bay Area over the next year or so.  I know at least one person is on the verge of having a DIYT2, another is getting a BHSE, and there are a few KGSSHVs that'll be cropping up there soon.  There's also FrankCooter


 

 Nah.  I was giving the BA serious consideration, but after a lot of thought and thread review (both here and on other audio communities), I decided to go a different route since there are some nitpicky things I had with the BA, and I didn't want to risk those traits translating over to preamp usage.  The BA is the most amazing dynamic headphone amp I've ever used, though, and I don't want to discourage anyone from trying or ordering one.  If I do go for a dynamic headphone amp, I may try one of those speaker preamps with the headphone jack, but unfortunately I've been reading that the headphone jack implementations vary dramatically in quality.  Would love to see a BA vs Manley Neo-Classic 300B comparison someday, just for curiosity's sake.
   
  I've heard amazing things about FrankCooter's creations and hope to find a specimen in the wild someday!  I've only heard of one in-progress DIY T2 and one KGSSHV in the Bay Area, so I'll have to ask around.  Just from what I've heard from people whose ears I trust, FrankCooter's work sounds even more interesting than the Electra and the Liquid Lightning.  I don't suppose there are any threads that talk about Frank's work in more detail?


----------



## DaveBSC

I can't imagine these bad boys come up for sale very often....
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-DA-100M-Pure-Class-A-DC-Monaural-Power-Amplifiers-/160677419801?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25691edb19


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


davebsc said:


> I can't imagine these bad boys come up for sale very often....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-DA-100M-Pure-Class-A-DC-Monaural-Power-Amplifiers-/160677419801?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25691edb19


 

 Jesus, are those electrostatic monoblocks?  I wonder how they sound.  Anybody in New Zealand willing to take one for the team?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> Jesus, are those electrostatic monoblocks?  I wonder how they sound.  Anybody in New Zealand willing to take one for the team?


 

 You could use them with a transformer to drive Stax headphones if you wanted to (or something like the Hifiman HE-6 directly), but they aren't headphone amplifiers, they're more like Pass Labs Class A monoblocks.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


davebsc said:


> You could use them with a transformer to drive Stax headphones if you wanted to (or something like the Hifiman HE-6 directly), but they aren't headphone amplifiers, they're more like Pass Labs Class A monoblocks.


 

 Thanks for the explanation.  I'm not particularly well-versed in this subject area, as you've no doubt gleaned by this point.


----------



## John Buchanan

Interesting cooling system too - like a refrigerator and runs on freon or equivalent. They come up not infrequently, usually for a price less than that, but not in near mint condition.


----------



## n3rdling

I want the DMA-X1 
  http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/dma-x1.html&ei=v3lqTYaqIIGC8ga1lY2bCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ7gEwBA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstax%2Bdma-x1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DzBk%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26prmd%3Divns
   
  The coolant thing seems really cool...anybody have a link to more info on that?  Wonder how it'd do withg something like a DIYT2


----------



## El_Doug

Very strange that you found a 300b amplifier improved your bass response - even with impressive output transformers, they can only diminish bass via rolloff, not add bass


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I want the DMA-X1
> http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/dma-x1.html&ei=v3lqTYaqIIGC8ga1lY2bCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ7gEwBA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstax%2Bdma-x1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DzBk%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26prmd%3Divns


 
   
  Wow is that thing ever ugly. I love huge monoblocks like the Halcros or the Gryphons, but they need to at least have some style. That looks like an air conditioner. Dynaudio got it right with the Arbiter.


----------



## livewire

Just make sure you use large speakers placed near a well.
  All well be fine.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I can't imagine these bad boys come up for sale very often....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-DA-100M-Pure-Class-A-DC-Monaural-Power-Amplifiers-/160677419801?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25691edb19


 

 Some months ago a pair sold for 1000Euro here in Germany. I was only number two on the list so another one grabbed them(


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I want the DMA-X1
> http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/dma-x1.html&ei=v3lqTYaqIIGC8ga1lY2bCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ7gEwBA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstax%2Bdma-x1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DzBk%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26prmd%3Divns
> 
> The coolant thing seems really cool...anybody have a link to more info on that?  Wonder how it'd do withg something like a DIYT2


 

 Wow, that thing is so much heavier than me!


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I want the DMA-X1
> http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/dma-x1.html&ei=v3lqTYaqIIGC8ga1lY2bCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ7gEwBA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstax%2Bdma-x1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DzBk%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26prmd%3Divns
> 
> The coolant thing seems really cool...anybody have a link to more info on that?  Wonder how it'd do withg something like a DIYT2


 

 Visually I would prefer the DMA-X2 because the X1 would look too big with my Stax F-81 speakers)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## n3rdling

The look always reminds me of computer servers


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I want the DMA-X1
> http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.niji.or.jp/home/k-nisi/dma-x1.html&ei=v3lqTYaqIIGC8ga1lY2bCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEUQ7gEwBA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstax%2Bdma-x1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DzBk%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26prmd%3Divns
> 
> The coolant thing seems really cool...anybody have a link to more info on that?  Wonder how it'd do withg something like a DIYT2


 


  It sounds a lot like the heat pipe systems used in computers. I think it would work great with the T2 if you could figure out a way to mount the transistors to it without puncturing the cavity holding the liquid. If you really wanted to be crazy you could make water blocks that the transistors mount to and then have radiators somewhere else.


----------



## n3rdling

Maybe weld an angle bracket onto the pipe and then mount the transistors onto the bracket


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Wow is that thing ever ugly. I love huge monoblocks like the Halcros or the Gryphons, but they need to at least have some style. That looks like an air conditioner. Dynaudio got it right with the Arbiter.


 

 the big daddy of all monoblock amplifiers, and to my tastes the most elegant looking amplifiers yet built, are the Mark Levinson No. 33 monoblocks. i owned a pair for 2 years back in the day and they were fine sounding amplifers. at 375 pound each; they pretty much win any heavy weight contest. i had to install a concrete pad in my crawl space and have heavy timbers brace my floor to be able to use them.
   
  i never had to worry about anyone stealing them, that's for sure.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

As a matter of fact, well recorded symphonic music in a good hall can have some of the lowest frequencies (short of synthesizer music) you'll ever hear. Sometimes this will even include the sounds of subway trains and street-traffic, where lower frequencies reach single digits.  I'm just sayin'. 
  
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I don't agree that open back is always better. With dynamics it often is not, as many are so bass anemic that they are nearly useless *except for classical* and jazz. The R-10 makes a strong argument for being the best dynamic headphone ever made, and its closed.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Hello: Do you still think the LNS is superior to the SR-307/407/507, and if so, do you still have yours?
   
  Thanks,
  Jeffrey 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You should get a SR Omega.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Hello: Do you still think the LNS is superior to the SR-307/407/507, and if so, do you still have yours?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeffrey


 


  I've only heard the 507 in meet conditions but it reminded me of the LNS.  I didn't really sit down with it long enough to say how it compares though.  I was actually gonna sell my LNS next, if you wanna buy it PM me.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

PM sent.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> the big daddy of all monoblock amplifiers, and to my tastes the most elegant looking amplifiers yet built, are the Mark Levinson No. 33 monoblocks. i owned a pair for 2 years back in the day and they were fine sounding amplifers. at 375 pound each; they pretty much win any heavy weight contest. i had to install a concrete pad in my crawl space and have heavy timbers brace my floor to be able to use them.
> 
> i never had to worry about anyone stealing them, that's for sure.


 


  The 33 was a great amplifier, but I actually thought they looked kind of bland, even by the bland standards of Mark Levinson. If you want to talk elegant looking monoblocks, take a look at the EAR M100A. In terms of weight, I think the Krell Master Reference Amplifier takes the cake. Six hundred eighty-three pounds. Each.


----------



## Elysian

Has anyone used any leather conditioner on their O2 earpads?  I've been thinking of treating mine to help them last longer.
   
  If it's a good idea for the O2 earpads, will Zaino Z-9 and Z-10 be safe?


----------



## milosz

Lexol Cleaner (when needed) and Lexol conditioner would probably be good.


----------



## Elysian

Thanks!  The Lexol and Zaino are pretty interchangeable, so it sounds safe then.


----------



## spritzer

I wouldn't bother since the leather isn't the issue with the O2 pads, it's the foam inside them that doesn't last more then a few years.


----------



## jaycalgary

I bought a SRM-717 and it just came today. Its a whole new listening experience compared to my tired SRM1 / MK2. Can someone tell me how to bypass the volume knob so I can just use the volume from my W4S dac2? I just have rca cables now till I get a pair of xlr's to run balanced. 

Found out that I had to open the unit to flick the switch.


----------



## John Buchanan

Turn off the power and unplug the unit. Remove the cover of the unit. On one side of the unit near the outside front is a switch that either has the volume control active or not. Replace the unit and power on. Make sure you don't forget that the unit now runs without gain control.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Some versions of the srm717 did not have the volume knob defeat switch.


----------



## Mossback

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The 33 was a great amplifier, but I actually thought they looked kind of bland, even by the bland standards of Mark Levinson. If you want to talk elegant looking monoblocks, take a look at the EAR M100A. In terms of weight, I think the Krell Master Reference Amplifier takes the cake. Six hundred eighty-three pounds. Each.


 


 yes; the big Krell's were heavier; but they were just a big box.
   
  i've seen the EAR mono's in person and they are nicely done.....but not to the scale of the ML No.33's and they never commanded a room in the same way.
   
  i've had lots of amazing looking gear in my room over the years that got attention; but nothing has ever got the reaction of the big No. 33's. "oh my God! was typical. they simply had a vibe of absolute power and majesty in any room, and i thought they had industrial design and elegance beyond any other gear i've seen.
   
  of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mossback said:


> of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


 

 Indeed. The only amp I've seen in person that made my jaw drop is the Audio Research 610T, which I nicknamed "beasticlees". It's not even that big or heavy, but somehow it looks like it has nuclear levels of power - I think it's all those tubes on the top plate. The similar VTL Siegried's tubes are internal, and it doesn't have the same presence because of that.


----------



## schorsch

The Carver Silver Seven made me running out of a room.
  I could feel the electricity!
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Some versions of the srm717 did not have the volume knob defeat switch.


 


  I can understand why, from a simple path point of view, I suppose.


----------



## Tidal

I'm now using Srm-007tA with old sr-202. If I go to upper models such as 407 or 507, will there be any improvement?
And what should be a recommended model in this case, while I have limitation about my budget. Thank you!


----------



## jaycalgary

I am very happy with the O2mk1 and 717. I went to the music store in town and bought cheap 1m xlr cables. Today I got carried away. I was looking through classifieds on CAM and stumbled on a sight "Take Five Audio." Looking at $30 cables my pocket became almost $1000 lighter. I bought 2 Neotech NEI-3001 xlr cables and 2 Neotech NEP-3001 power cables. One for the 717 and one for my W4S Dac2. Wonder if it was a mistake to get 6ft power cables? I just hope this will all be a really good match for my system.


----------



## DolphinG

Hello guys.
   
  I recently got a SR-5 Gold and I found it is so sibilant.
   
  Also, I found it that it has lower volume compared to SR-gamma Normal bias in same setting.
   
  Is this natural or do I have a bad SR-5 Gold?
   
  Well, everybody says they like SR-5 but I'm disappointed with this headphone.
   
  Those anybody here can compare SR-5 to SR-gamma or SR-X MK3?
   
  How does SR-5 sound compared to SR-gamma?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





dolphing said:


> Hello guys.
> 
> I recently got a SR-5 Gold and I found it is so sibilant.
> 
> ...


 

 I have absolutely no sibilance with my SR-5 NB Gold, and once owned another pair that sounded the same.  I prefer these to my old Gamma Pro, SR-5, and SR-3.


----------



## DolphinG

Well, I should try more to fix this one...


----------



## DolphinG

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I have absolutely no sibilance with my SR-5 NB Gold, and once owned another pair that sounded the same.  I prefer these to my old Gamma Pro, SR-5, and SR-3.


 


   
  Well, then I think that my SR-5 Gold is having some problem.
   
  Thanks. I should try to find out what's the problem or sell it to other people who wants it for DIY or parts of it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





dolphing said:


> Well, then I think that my SR-5 Gold is having some problem.
> 
> Thanks. I should try to find out what's the problem or sell it to other people who wants it for DIY or parts of it.


 


  I actually like my SR-5 NB Gold more than my old Grado RS-1.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Often a first Stax, especially one related to the SRX-mkIII (as the SR-5 Gold is), sounds sibilant because it reveals a weakness in the source or electronics not heard in less revealing phones. It may have been there before the Stax came to town.


----------



## Audiogalore

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I actually like my SR-5 NB Gold more than my old Grado RS-1.


 


  I second that opinion!


----------



## NamelessPFG

How do you all think the SR-5 Gold compares to the normal-bias SR-Lambda? I don't hear too much talk regarding models that aren't Lambdas or Omega deriatives/flagships.
   
  Also, I have another question...when listening to test tones in SineGen, something seems off. At some frequencies, the left driver will sound louder (250 Hz), but at other frequencies, the right driver sounds significantly louder and more impactful (mostly sub-bass). Around the mids and higher, it's well balanced. Normally, I'd think that one driver would just sound louder across the board, but that's not the case. What would cause this?


----------



## n3rdling

Both are steals at the price but I easily prefer the Lambda.  The SR-5 is like the ultimate Grado...really forward sounding and extension isn't that great.  It's not as refined or balanced as the Lambda and the soundstage is a lot smaller.


----------



## charliex

I love my SR-5 Gold edition AND my Normal bias SR Lambdas, and actually prefer them to my Stax LNS and even though my 404LE is better in many areas, I often find myself gravitating back to the SR-5 Golds due to their unique sound signature.


----------



## NamelessPFG

What makes you take the SR-Lambda (normal bias) over the Lambda Nova Signature? If that Wikiphonia comparison is to be believed, the difference seems to lie in the SR-Lambda having an edge in the midrange while the LNS is said to have better extension both ways.
   
  Also, I have a new question...after selling some stuff, I now have about $500 to spend on something. Naturally, I'm feeling the itch for more Stax...but I don't know what, exactly. (That budget could be significantly increased if I sold my Lambda and SRD-7/SB first, which would increase my comfort zone quite a bit...)
   
  Here are a few options I've considered:
   
  -SR-202 + SRM-212 at a rather low price...but the SR-202's headband is broken right where the forks hold the earcups, and the right driver's said to have some sort of "mosquito sound" issue. I'm not so sure how easy it would be to fix that driver-related problem.
  -SR-Lambda normal bias + modified SRA-12S. (The downside is that the SRA-12S shows no sign of being modified to have a Pro bias output on one of the jacks.)
  -SR-Lambda Pro + SRM-1/Mk2 Pro.
  -Lambda Nova Signature...and no amp. (With my SRD-7/SB alone, it'll be underdriven at Normal bias levels...)
  -SRM-T1 (or a variant thereof)...and no new headphones. (But it would provide a good foundation for any future upgrades...)


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *NamelessPFG* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> -SR-202 + SRM-212 at a rather low price...but the SR-202's headband is broken right where the forks hold the earcups, and the right driver's said to have some sort of "mosquito sound" issue. I'm not so sure how easy it would be to fix that driver-related problem.


 
  I would avoid that. My SR-303s have developed this problem too, 3 times in a row! (meaning I had the drivers replaced 2 times and then the problem reappeared) I suppose I made a serious mistake keeping the headphones in a plastic bag, thinking that I would better protect them against dust. Now, after giving up the plastic bag idiocy, the problem subdued to an important degree, I only have this noise say 5 or 6 times a year, and I listen to my Stax at least 250 days a year if not 300. In the rest of the time their sound is absolutely normal. But they are still not 100% healed, one day I will surely hear this noise again. Fortunately, the current rate of problem manifestation is acceptable for me.
  Bottom line, this is a driver fault that cannot be remedied, at least not 100%, in any other way but by replacing the driver.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote:


don quichotte said:


> I would avoid that. My SR-303s have developed this problem too, 3 times in a row! (meaning I had the drivers replaced 2 times and then the problem reappeared) I suppose I made a serious mistake keeping the headphones in a plastic bag, thinking that I would better protect them against dust. Now, after giving up the plastic bag idiocy, the problem subdued to an important degree, I only have this noise say 5 or 6 times a year, and I listen to my Stax at least 250 days a year if not 300. In the rest of the time their sound is absolutely normal. But they are still not 100% healed, one day I will surely hear this noise again. Fortunately, the current rate of problem manifestation is acceptable for me.
> Bottom line, this is a driver fault that cannot be remedied, at least not 100%, in any other way but by replacing the driver.


 
   
  Sounds like more hassle than I'm willing to put up with. I want my next pair of Stax to be unquestionably reliable. No crackling, no pops, nothing...and preferably no imbalances.
   
  I guess I could take a chance on another SR-Lambda or Lambda Pro, but they'd be getting quite long in the tooth by now. A younger Nova Signature might fare a bit better, if the Nova series isn't plagued with the same problems that seems to afflict the current numerical series.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> What makes you take the SR-Lambda (normal bias) over the Lambda Nova Signature? If that Wikiphonia comparison is to be believed, the difference seems to lie in the SR-Lambda having an edge in the midrange while the LNS is said to have better extension both ways.
> 
> Also, I have a new question...after selling some stuff, I now have about $500 to spend on something. Naturally, I'm feeling the itch for more Stax...but I don't know what, exactly. (That budget could be significantly increased if I sold my Lambda and SRD-7/SB first, which would increase my comfort zone quite a bit...)
> 
> ...


 


  Maybe I haven't been reading the entire thread, but I'm somewhat confused about your considered options you describe.  Are you limiting yourself to a specific SR-202/SRM-212 offer here on Head-Fi, one that has issues, or are you considering purchasing the model itself?  The reason I ask, is that the 202/212 package comes up for sale regularly and never have I seen another one listed exhibiting these flaws you describe.
  And lastly, you're better off getting the SRM-T1 amp as a foundation rather than having to go through several purchases in a short period of time and finding yourself with unused equipment collecting dust.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





charliex said:


> Maybe I haven't been reading the entire thread, but I'm somewhat confused about your considered options you describe.  Are you limiting yourself to a specific SR-202/SRM-212 offer here on Head-Fi, one that has issues, or are you considering purchasing the model itself?  The reason I ask, is that the 202/212 package comes up for sale regularly and never have I seen another one listed exhibiting these flaws you describe.
> And lastly, you're better off getting the SRM-T1 amp as a foundation rather than having to go through several purchases in a short period of time and finding yourself with unused equipment collecting dust.


 

 Those options are just what I immediately see. The SR-202/SRM-212 combo is indeed here on Head-Fi and pretty cheap, but as mentioned, the SR-202 has issues.
   
  Also, I've quickly checked around and found that all the $500 SRM-T1s are gone...now it's like $550 or more for one of those. That's a bit of a stretch. Is it really worth it over something like the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, especially for someone who has no intention of going up to SR-007 or SR-009 levels of wallet hurt (in other words, sticking to Lambdas)?


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Those options are just what I immediately see. The SR-202/SRM-212 combo is indeed here on Head-Fi and pretty cheap, but as mentioned, the SR-202 has issues.
> 
> Also, I've quickly checked around and found that all the $500 SRM-T1s are gone...now it's like $550 or more for one of those. That's a bit of a stretch. Is it really worth it over something like the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, especially for someone who has no intention of going up to SR-007 or SR-009 levels of wallet hurt (in other words, sticking to Lambdas)?


 


  Alright then - if you can wait a bit, then your SR-202/SRM-212 is a good investment.  However, I'd still want to upgrade from the SRM-12.  I went the same/similar route that you are now following.  I still have my SRM-1/Mk-2 amp (provided you get a 'C' series above 5000).  However, once I got my SRM-T1, the SRM-1/Mk-2 went into total disuse (that's how much a difference I noted with the SRM-T1)


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





charliex said:


> Alright then - if you can wait a bit, then your SR-202/SRM-212 is a good investment.  However, I'd still want to upgrade from the SRM-12.  I went the same/similar route that you are now following.  I still have my SRM-1/Mk-2 amp (provided you get a 'C' series above 5000).  However, once I got my SRM-T1, the SRM-1/Mk-2 went into total disuse (that's how much a difference I noted with the SRM-T1)


 

 At $270 + shipping from Korea, it's definitely tempting. I'm just concerned about a potential sound issue in one of those drivers that apparently can't be fixed without replacement, as mentioned earlier. (I'm not concerned about the broken headband at all; if push comes to shove, I'll swap drivers and mounting plates with my current Lambda. While the forks and their connection to the earcups have changed, the screws and mounting plates have not, right?)
   
  As for the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro...the back says "B1374". I take it the later "C" revision is better? (However, this one does come with a nice-looking Lambda Pro. Depending on how the bidding goes, it could go for a very attractive price...or not, given how Stax gear on eBay tends to sell for quite a bit.)
   
  Also, there's a question that went unanswered earlier...why do you prefer the SR-Lambda (normal bias) to the Nova Signature? I'm noticing some mixed opinions here...lots of people LOVE the Nova Signature and consider it one of the all-time best. In particular, there's this Faust3d face-off...of course, there's still the variables of sound signature preferences and how the amp of choice there was the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro.
   
  I would think that the headphone drivers play far more of a role in the sound quality than the amp...then again, these are electrostatics we're talking about.


----------



## pigmode

Where are the places to look for an SRM-717?


----------



## n3rdling

here ebay audiogon and yahoo japan


----------



## pigmode

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> here ebay audiogon and yahoo japan


 


   
  Thanks.
   
  Was just going through my notes, and in '03 I was super impressed with the O2/717 combo. I remember spending a good amount of quality time with the set. Not in a rush (yet), but I figure the 009 might be more appropriate.


----------



## Michgelsen

@NamelessPFG
   
  I had the combination of SR-202 and SRM-T1 for a while, and it is a great match. In fact, when I upgraded to a SRM-717, I even preferred the T1 to the 717 for the SR-202.
  The SR-007 demanded the stay of the SRM-717 however, and therefore the sale of the T1.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I waited too long on that Nova Signature, so that's off the list. (I thought about it very strongly for a while...then questioned if selling my current Lambda setup would even make me enough for a basic Pro bias amp.)
   
  That SR-Lambda + modified SRA-12S (and by "modified", I mean "it looks like someone removed two PCBs, changed some caps near the AC transformer, added two huge caps where said PCBs used to be, and replaced the volume and balance pots with a stepped attenuator)...or that SR-Lambda Pro + stock SRM-1/Mk2 Pro ("B" revision)...they're both auctions, though, so it's all too likely I'll get outbid given how many early bids they already have.
   
  If I could find another SRM-T1 (or variant thereof) for $500 shipped in working order, that would be nice, but I doubt it at this rate. I might have to sell more stuff before that even becomes an option, and if I sell my current Lambda system to do so, then I won't have anything to actually use the T1 with.
   
  *sighs* "Sorry about your wallet" indeed...but once you've heard electrostatics, it's hard to go back.


----------



## verwandlung

Hello all, 
   
  I was looking to buy a KGSS to drive my MK2, but unfortunately I recently learned that Justin of Headamp is no longer building them and that it seems that he won't build a KGSSHV anytime soon. Considering that I would much prefer to get a SS amp, it seems that a good option for now would be the STAX 727 (or a used 717, which seems difficult to find anyway). I have heard some bad things about that amp, but it seems that with some modifications (Spritzer's modifications) it could be a pretty decent one to drive the MK2...
   
  The only thing is that I don't really know what the modifications consist in and what difference it makes with regard to the listening experience (just in case that matters, I am listening mostly exclusively to “classical music”). Any clarification would be much appreciated. 
   
  Thanks in advance. 
   
  Regards, 
   
  Verwandlung
   
  PS. I am not looking at building anything on my own.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> The only thing is that I don't really know what the modifications consist in and what difference it makes with regard to the listening experience (just in case that matters, I am listening mostly exclusively to “classical music”). Any clarification would be much appreciated.


 
   
  I believe the mod simply involves relocating a couple of resistors to bring the feedback loop to the output stage, as it was cut short for a particular voicing (results in a nonlinear response). It's really up to personal preference if you find it to your liking or not.
   
  I don't see any reason why the mod isn't reversible as long as it isn't butchered.


----------



## sachu

Am eagerly looking forward to seeing the Cavalli Liquid Lightning take shape as it goes through the refinement process that Alex Cavalli usually puts his designs through.


----------



## livewire

I thought that this was the "Stax Thread"? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (j/k)
   
  I hope he gets the buzzy psu sorted, cant wait to hear it!
  (ha-ha, the amp - not the psu!)


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Am eagerly looking forward to seeing the Cavalli Liquid Lightning take shape as it goes through the refinement process that Alex Cavalli usually puts his designs through.


 


  I thought it was a “Stax thread”! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  (I don't know, I tend now to hesitate between a Gilmore designed amp (used difficult to find KGSS, not yet built KGSSHV, or a cheap new BHSE!) or if I loose patience a Stax 727, hence my question regarding the modification... -- which, of course, doesn't mean that I won"t pay attention to what is said concerning the CLL.)


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I thought that this was the "Stax Thread"?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  huh? and the CLL is an amp to drive electrostatics like the stax. So where is the joke?


----------



## subtle

Is PriceJapan a legit place to order the 009 from or will you have no warranty service by purchasing through them?
   
  $4350 shipped is a significant savings compared to $5200 from Woo Audio.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





subtle said:


> Is PriceJapan a legit place to order the 009 from or will you have no warranty service by purchasing through them?
> 
> $4350 shipped is a significant savings compared to $5200 from Woo Audio.


 


  They are very legit. But I'm not sure about warranty issues with Stax should any issues arise.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


macedonianhero said:


> They are very legit. But I'm not sure about warranty issues with Stax should any issues arise.


 

 It's grey market.  Either w/o warranty, or you have to send 'em back to Japan.  I didn't want to take that risk.


----------



## FrankCooter

Quote: 





subtle said:


> Is PriceJapan a legit place to order the 009 from or will you have no warranty service by purchasing through them?
> 
> $4350 shipped is a significant savings compared to $5200 from Woo Audio.


 

 PriceJapan sources from the domestic Japanese market. U.S. Stax will not honor the warranty unless the product has been sourced from a U.S. authorized distributor. From past experiance, they may not even talk to you.. Any warranty work will mean a return to the original purchaser in Japan, who must then send it to Stax Japan. I've been through this. I won't do it again. I like having a functional warranty.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





frankcooter said:


> PriceJapan sources from the domestic Japanese market. U.S. Stax will not honor the warranty unless the product has been sourced from a U.S. authorized distributor. From past experiance, they may not even talk to you.. Any warranty work will mean a return to the original purchaser in Japan, who must then send it to Stax Japan. I've been through this. I won't do it again. I like having a functional warranty.


 


   
  Thanks Frank. That kinda confirms my suspicions.


----------



## n3rdling

Weren't there a few early 009 buyers that had the dust problem who used pricejapan and things went fine?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





frankcooter said:


> PriceJapan sources from the domestic Japanese market. U.S. Stax will not honor the warranty unless the product has been sourced from a U.S. authorized distributor. From past experiance, they may not even talk to you.. Any warranty work will mean a return to the original purchaser in Japan, who must then send it to Stax Japan. I've been through this. I won't do it again. I like having a functional warranty.


 

 In most cases I'd agree with you, but trying to get service from Yamas doesn't really count as a functional warranty. It's entirely possible that sending them back to Japan would be faster. Yamas doesn't even pick up the phone for _dealers, _let alone actual customers.
   
  IIRC, there was a guy who sent his phones to Stax UK because US service is such a joke.


----------



## John Buchanan

Interesting - I sent an email about 3 weeks ago to work out pricing for a set of mineral wool and foams for a Lambda Pro deal that went all pear shaped. Yamasinc/Accutech got back to me within 24 hours and shipped very quickly. Hopefully this means things have turned around there with the name change. They did nice work with the conversion of the Sigma to a Sigma/404 that I commissioned them to do a few years ago, when the local Stax distributor told me it wasn't possible..


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I believe the mod simply involves relocating a couple of resistors to bring the feedback loop to the output stage, as it was cut short for a particular voicing (results in a nonlinear response). It's really up to personal preference if you find it to your liking or not.
> 
> I don't see any reason why the mod isn't reversible as long as it isn't butchered.


 


  Thank you deadlylover.
   
  Does anyone here have a modified Stax 727II? What kind of difference can you here while listening to music? How can you, concretely, hear “the feedback loop to the output stage,” on a modified 727II, or the “nonlinear response” on a regular one? Please forgive the simplicity of my question: I just don't know much about how amps are built or how they function; nevertheless, I am trying to decide on an amp for my MK2 and would like to know more precisely what the aforementioned difference consist in.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Thank you deadlylover.
> 
> Does anyone here have a modified Stax 727II? What kind of difference can you here while listening to music? How can you, concretely, hear “the feedback loop to the output stage,” on a modified 727II, or the “nonlinear response” on a regular one? Please forgive the simplicity of my question: I just don't know much about how amps are build or how they function; nevertheless, I am trying to decide on an amp for my MK2 and would like to know more precisely what the aforementioned difference consist in.


 

 This is what Spritzer had to say about the 727 and the mod:
   
  "On the whole this design is an improvement over the 717 in the same way that the KGSSHV is an improvement over the older design. It is fully CCS loaded (including the third stage), the build quality is a step up from the 717 and it looks much better to boot. That tiny amber power on led is a very neat touch. Now the bad news, Stax got the bright idea to cut the feedback loop short so it stops at the third stage (i.e. on the plugin cards) and the output stage is outside of it. I for one can't see any reason to do this unless you want an nonlinear design so you end up with an rather odd sounding amp where everything is bloated and larger than life. It even makes the SR-007Mk1 appear bright on some recordings so good sounding it is not. Another nasty side effect is the lower gain (needed for the amp to remain stable), by far the lowest of any Stax amp I've ever tried so you are pushing the volume level quite a bit even with a normal 2V source."
   
  I can't link the thread here, but if you Google "The SRM 727 thread" you'll find it. IIRC bumping up the gain ended up causing problems, so I would skip that. Otherwise the mod is said to considerably improve the overall balance of the amp.


----------



## verwandlung

Thank you very much Dave for the quote.


----------



## NamelessPFG

All right, I've made up my mind. I'm gunning for the Lambda Pro + SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, and the main thing that sways me there is the amp.
   
  Even if the normal bias Lambda may be preferable to the Pro version, if I can get that combo within my budget, I'd be hard-pressed to find a better amp with both bias sockets without spending the big bucks for an SRM-T1 or something better, and there's just too many variables with that modded SRA-12S (which doesn't even have a Pro bias mod).


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Thank you deadlylover.
> 
> Does anyone here have a modified Stax 727II? What kind of difference can you here while listening to music? How can you, concretely, hear “the feedback loop to the output stage,” on a modified 727II, or the “nonlinear response” on a regular one? Please forgive the simplicity of my question: I just don't know much about how amps are built or how they function; nevertheless, I am trying to decide on an amp for my MK2 and would like to know more precisely what the aforementioned difference consist in.


 

 Sound preference is a always an odd thing but the mod does lower the distortion of the amp by an order of magnitude so to these ears it is very worth while.  A few amps have been modified and nobody has seen the need to reverse the mod


----------



## NamelessPFG

The Lambda + modded SRA-12S auction just ended. I wouldn't have won anyway at that final bidding price. Did any of you get it?
   
  This doesn't give me much hope for getting that Lambda Pro and SRM-1/Mk2 Pro...in order to afford something higher up the upgrade ladder, I may even have to go Stax-less for a few weeks to get my budget up a few hundred dollars-in other words, selling the Lambda and SRD-7/SB I have now. (Only on a forum like this does $500 suddenly seem woefully inadequate...)


----------



## spritzer

Why would anybody butcher the SRA-10/12S like that...


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote:


spritzer said:


> Why would anybody butcher the SRA-10/12S like that...


 
   
  I take it that you hold the stock SRA-12S in high regard, and if any mods were to bring improvement, that was NOT the way to go?
   
  Strangely enough, I don't hear a lot about the SRA-series amps. Perhaps it's because they're so old that they lack Pro bias in stock form.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I take it that you hold the stock SRA-12S in high regard, and if any mods were to bring improvement, that was NOT the way to go?
> 
> Strangely enough, I don't hear a lot about the SRA-series amps. Perhaps it's because they're so old that they lack Pro bias in stock form.


 

 I personally own a SRA 12S  modified to Pro by the German stax distributor. I like it very much because it's phono section is quite good and I'm ore flexible than with just headamp.
  There is also a SRA 14S. Only a few qere sold in Germany (and worldwide) These are really great amps. It is the main preamp in my household. It has fantastic phono boards. You can put 2 extra boards into the amp 2 times MC or MM or cards for electrostatic pickups (The only card I haven't got((
  It has external power supply (There was one kind of prototype on ebay without external power supply)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Sound preference is a always an odd thing but the mod does lower the distortion of the amp by an order of magnitude so to these ears it is very worth while.  A few amps have been modified and nobody has seen the need to reverse the mod


 


  So I guess that it is my best option for now to drive my SR-007, assuming that I don't really want to go for the BHSE (not really because of the price, but rather due to a (irrational?) reluctance to deal with tubes and excessive heath). Oh yeah, there is also the CLL coming soon...
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## moodyrn

I saw that on ebay and was tempted the first time around, but the seller couldn't tell me anything about the mods except the only thing original was the transformer. So that scared me away. But it's funny how some people bid on ebay. The first time it was listed, there was a starting bid of 475.00 and no one bidded on it. Then he relisted it at something like .99(I think) starting bid and it ended up being a bidding war that ended with almost 600.00. I've seen similar things happen so many times on ebay. But that amp stock could have gone for that much alone. I guess the his version of it really scared a lot of people off.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> So I guess that it is my best option for now to drive my SR-007, assuming that I don't really want to go for the BHSE (not really because of the price, but rather due to a (irrational?) reluctance to deal with tubes and excessive heath). Oh yeah, there is also the CLL coming soon...


 

 It's also a question of how soon do you want an improvement. You can get a 727A from Japan probably within a couple of weeks, or wait a year for a BHSE. Production Liquid Lightnings are probably a good four months away, and the price will be more than double that of the 727A.


----------



## edstrelow

If it was going to be modded why not put in a pro socket and make the SRA12 really useful?
   
   I have 2 of these.  One is used solely for parts.  The other is a "improved" model but improved by Stax.  The only thing I can see by simple inspection is larger caps in the improved model.  I did one improvement myself which was to install an of/off switch in the power supply to the headphone amp ( which btw is 700 volts!).  Running the amp as my main system preamp meant that the headphone amp was on all the time and it failed twice.  The circuit boards even got scorched from all the heat.  I still use it as a preamp with a turntable with a  PS noise harvester plugged into the back external power socket of the amp.  It still sounds pretty good with lp's used mostly on a low bias Sigma.
   
  I have been tempted now and again to do list something for $.99 starting bid but am always afraid that I won't get enough bids to avoid taking a bath.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I have been tempted now and again to do list something for $.99 starting bid but am always afraid that I won't get enough bids to avoid taking a bath.


 

 You can always start bidding at 99 cents with a reserve below which you're unwilling to sell, or just start the auction at the absolute minimum you'd be willing to take.


----------



## verwandlung

Hello all, 
   
  I already made a few posts concerning the Stax 727II and got enlightening responses. But I am still not able to make up my mind!  Basically, I am torn and cannot decide whether I should go for it, or for the BHSE! I know that it sounds silly, but the size and the heath of the latter makes me hesitate a little bit, besides, the size of the 727II is appealing to me (please don't tell me that if the size really matters I should go for the 323II! I already have this one). But here is my question: if you had to choose between the BHSE, or the Stax 727II -- AND a Bel canto CD2 and the VBS1 to upgrade a Bel Canto DAC 2.5 (I would use the all three together), what would you choose? I am using the Stax SR-007 MK as earspeakers. I guess, my question boils down to this: do you think it would sound better over all just keeping the Bel Canto DAC 2.5 with the BHSE, or the going for the 727II and improving the source system with the two items aforementioned 
   
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I already made a few posts concerning the Stax 727II and got enlightening responses. But I am still not able to make up my mind!  Basically, I am torn and cannot decide whether I should go for it, or for the BHSE! I know that it sounds silly, but the size and the heath of the latter makes me hesitate a little bit, besides, the size of the 727II is appealing to me (please don't tell me that if the size really matters I should go for the 323II! I already have this one). But here is my question: if you had to choose between the BHSE, or the Stax 727II -- AND a Bel canto CD2 and the VBS1 to upgrade a Bel Canto DAC 2.5 (I would use the all three together), what would you choose? I am using the Stax SR-007 MK as earspeakers. I guess, my question boils down to this: do you think it would sound better over all just keeping the Bel Canto DAC 2.5 with the BHSE, or the going for the 727II and improving the source system with the two items aforementioned


 

 The Omega2 is a highly resolving headphone, and source improvements are always welcome. Look at it this way. If you order a BHSE now, you're going to be listening to a 323II for another year. If you order the 727II now, you can be listening to it in a matter of days. You can sell your 323 to help fund your source upgrade. Since the mod will void the warranty anyway, I'd suggest importing a 727A from Japan to save a few hundred bucks. You can use a transformer (many sites offer one packaged with the amp for little cost) temporarily until you can have the mod and PSU re-wire done.
   
  Listen to the modded 727, and maybe audition some other transports or CD players in the mean time. Personally, I have a soft spot for Simaudio disc spinners. In another few months when there are some impressions on the LL and that Eddie Current, you can decide whether you want to do another amp upgrade. A modded 727 will be an easy sell.


----------



## verwandlung

Thanks Dave. I just got my Bel Canto sale person on the phone and it seems that what I was thinking of doing won't improve much the quality of the source (for that purpose, replacing the Dac 2.5 with a 3.5 is really the way to go). Since I have no real intention of replacing this DAC any time soon (which is not yet even a year ago) it seems that -- poor me -- I don't really have a  choice but to go for the BHSE
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Ah, it feels so good not to have a choice sometimes, doesn't?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Thanks Dave. I just got my Bel Canto sale person on the phone and it seems that what I was thinking of doing won't improve much the quality of the source (for that purpose, replacing the Dac 2.5 with a 3.5 is really the way to go). Since I have no real intention of replacing this DAC any time soon (which is not yet even a year ago) it seems that -- poor me -- I don't really have a  choice but to go for the BHSE
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Why not change DACs, or buy a new single box CD player and skip the DAC? To be honest I'm not much of a Bel Canto fan, I had the older DAC-3 and thought it was average at best. Simaudio's Moon 650D transport/DAC on the other hand is a _serious _piece of kit. It has no need for an external DAC, and they've just recently updated the USB input to 24/192 capable asynchronous, so it does everything, and sounds really good doing it.


----------



## verwandlung

I may consider it in a few years (heard good things about the Plinius 101 as well), but the pressing issue, which means what absolutely has to be taking care of within the year, is the replacement of my Stax 323II.


----------



## schorsch

Ebay pic of the day
   
  Omega not working!
   
  http://www.ebay.de/itm/STAX-SRS-007-/320802946908?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item4ab1587f5c
   
  No drivers! Is it possible to get new drivers? How much? Any idea what they're worth?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> I may consider it in a few years (heard good things about the Plinius 101 as well), but the pressing issue, which means what absolutely has to be taking care of within the year, is the replacement of my Stax 323II.


 

 The SRM-727 (unmodded) isn't a particularly good match for the SR-007mk1 in my experience (it works better with the SR-009.) I haven't listened to the modded version or the SR-007mk2.
   
  By the way, why do you feel the need to replace the SRM-323?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> The SRM-727 (unmodded) isn't a particularly good match for the SR-007mk1 in my experience (it works better with the SR-009.) I haven't listened to the modded version or the SR-007mk2.
> 
> *By the way, why do you feel the need to replace the SRM-323?  *


 

  
  Prolly due to the same reason he will want to replace the 727 after he buys that.* Upgradeitis.*
  Just buy the BHSE already, wait your year or so, and be done with it.
  Tubes? Cats? Heath? (it's heat btw) Who cares?
  Build a cage for the BHSE so kitty wont get zapped or burned.
  Problem solved.
   
  But then you will be left with the doubt - "I could have bought a LL or EC" when they become available.
  It's doubtful that either could best the BHSE. But only time will tell....
  There will always be "the next best thing". Time to draw a line in the sand and be done with the indecision.
  Just my 2cents.


----------



## DaveBSC

I think the only way to completely eliminate "upgradeitis" is to commission a T2, that's as good as it gets.


----------



## livewire

Agreed.
  Although he will have to dig deeper into his wallet and still need to build a cage to protect his amp from tabby.
  Also good luck finding a T2 board set as well as somebody interested in building the thing.
  It can be done!


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





visualguy said:


> By the way, why do you feel the need to replace the SRM-323?


 


  well, because I just think that it would be a little bit silly to use this nice srm-007 mkII with the 323II for too long. it was my intention from the beginning to get an amp more suitable for those headphones when i would find the the appropriate funding.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Prolly due to the same reason he will want to replace the 727 after he buys that.* Upgradeitis.*
> Just buy the BHSE already, wait your year or so, and be done with it.
> 
> But then you will be left with the doubt - "I could have bought a LL or EC" when they become available.
> ...


 

 So that's it, the disease has been diagnosed: “upgradeitis”! And the doctor recommends the BHSE? (Those things should be covered by my health insurance plan, shouldn't they?) So let it be. Thank you all for the good “therapeutic” talk.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> I personally own a SRA 12S  modified to Pro by the German stax distributor. I like it very much because it's phono section is quite good and I'm ore flexible than with just headamp.
> There is also a SRA 14S. Only a few qere sold in Germany (and worldwide) These are really great amps. It is the main preamp in my household. It has fantastic phono boards. You can put 2 extra boards into the amp 2 times MC or MM or cards for electrostatic pickups (The only card I haven't got((
> It has external power supply (There was one kind of prototype on ebay without external power supply)
> 
> Regards Georg


 

 I quite like these older Stax amps and I have one SRA-10S (i.e. the 12S before it was sold worldwide) here that I'm completely rebuilding.  Every resistor, capacitor and diode has been replaced and I've even ordered a custom transformer for it since the SRA-10S are 100V only.  This one has had a rough life so all the rca's were replaced plus I've modified the PSU as much as one can in that small chassis, changed the normal bias output to the more recent 230V spec and added a Pro output.  I have another SRA-12S incoming so it will be fun to compare a fully reworked unit to a stock one. 
   
  From a design point of view these amps are quite dated (fully AC coupled compared to the fully DC coupled amps we have today) but Stax never skimped on parts.  Silver mica output caps aren't something we'd see anywhere today...


----------



## BoogieWoogie

What the.. I just came from the Stax dealer and I have been listening all afternoon to my sr-007 MKI and SR-009 amped by the SRM-007t.
   
  I had listened to the z3 and it was to damn bright so this time with the mk1 I didn't feel it was, but came to the conclusion that the SR-007 doesn't sound right to me, it lacks weight on the sound, feels to light,thin and very sibilant.
  I wasn't expecting to like the SR-009 because people say its brighter and sounds worse with bad recordings but after hearing it it was quite the opposite.
   
  It sounded awesome at low-medium volume(I'm a lower vol listener) with great detail but not bright and that feeling of lightness I had with the sr007 wasn't present, this time the sound definitely had more depth and weight to it.
  Is this a symptom of the so called power angry sr007 being underpowered or doesn't have anything to do with it ?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> What the.. I just came from the Stax dealer and I have been listening all afternoon to my sr-007 MKI and SR-009 amped by the SRM-007t.
> 
> Is this a symptom of the so called power angry sr007 being underpowered or doesn't have anything to do with it ?


 

 Certainly possible. It's no secret that the SRM-007 is FAR from the ideal amp for the O2, even though Stax sells them together. The SR-009 is supposed to be easier to drive, so it probably sounds better with amps like the SRM-007, 006, or 600. My O2 Mk1 has never sounded sibilant to me at all though, even from a lowly SRM-1 Mk2.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> What the.. I just came from the Stax dealer and I have been listening all afternoon to my sr-007 MKI and SR-009 amped by the SRM-007t.
> 
> I had listened to the z3 and it was to damn bright so this time with the mk1 I didn't feel it was, but came to the conclusion that the SR-007 doesn't sound right to me, it lacks weight on the sound, feels to light,thin and very sibilant.
> I wasn't expecting to like the SR-009 because people say its brighter and sounds worse with bad recordings but after hearing it it was quite the opposite.
> ...


 

*I'd betcha that it is.*
  Another possibility is that for people who have high frequency hearing loss (older guys - like me)
  brighter phones like the 009 are a better fit.
  I absolutely love my SR-202s and Grados for this reason.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I had listened to the z3 and it was to damn bright so this time with the mk1 I didn't feel it was, but came to the conclusion that the SR-007 doesn't sound right to me, it lacks weight on the sound, feels to light,thin and very sibilant.
> I wasn't expecting to like the SR-009 because people say its brighter and sounds worse with bad recordings but after hearing it it was quite the opposite.
> 
> It sounded awesome at low-medium volume(I'm a lower vol listener) with great detail but not bright and that feeling of lightness I had with the sr007 wasn't present, this time the sound definitely had more depth and weight to it.
> Is this a symptom of the so called power angry sr007 being underpowered or doesn't have anything to do with it ?


 

 The problem isn't the SR007, but with what you were feeding it with.  I have the same issue with some Sennheiser headphones, which also sound thin and sibilant when being fed through a lousy chain.
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Another possibility is that for people who have high frequency hearing loss (older guys - like me)
> brighter phones like the 009 are a better fit.
> I absolutely love my SR-202s and Grados for this reason.


 

 I've wondered about that as well wrt 'bright' headphones and hearing loss.  I've only read a few people venture that idea.


----------



## n3rdling

Gonna disagree with everybody here.  The 007 would only sound darker and the bass would be looser on lesser amps like the 007t than it does on the best stuff.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Come to think of it...I haven't seen the SR-*07 Lambda revisions mentioned that often in here. Has no one bothered to try them, SR-507 aside?
   
  Specifically, I mean the SR-202 vs. SR-207 and how prone the latter would be to developing that "mosquito sound" driver issue, as it's been described.
   
  There's also the matter of the SRM-212 I'm looking at, and it has an external AC adapter...for 100V. Not exactly in line with the US 120V standard. How easy would it be to rectify this little issue, either by way of step-up transformer or a different AC adapter altogether?
   
  (Right now, my game plan looks like this: get the SR-202 + SRM-212, sell the current Lambda + SRD-7/SB, either attempt to exchange the SR-202 for an SR-207 at half price if STAX USA/Yama's gives me the opportunity or hold out for something like a Nova Signature if issues arise, then save some more until I can afford the SRM-323S or SRM-T1...and I'm not even sure about that last step.)


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





livewire said:


> *I'd betcha that it is.*
> Another possibility is that for people who have high frequency hearing loss (older guys - like me)
> brighter phones like the 009 are a better fit.
> I absolutely love my SR-202s and Grados for this reason.


 

 Well thats not me I'm very sensitive to forward bright phones and I'm in my 20's.
   


  Quote: 





elysian said:


> The problem isn't the SR007, but with what you were feeding it with.  I have the same issue with some Sennheiser headphones, which also sound thin and sibilant when being fed through a lousy chain.
> 
> 
> I've wondered about that as well wrt 'bright' headphones and hearing loss.  I've only read a few people venture that idea.


 
  How can it be a lousy chain for the SR-007 and a good one for the 009 at the same time ? The SRM-007t was fed by this Ayon CD-2
  
   


  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Gonna disagree with everybody here.  The 007 would only sound darker and the bass would be looser on lesser amps like the 007t than it does on the best stuff.


 

 The bass was definitely weak and bloated. I noticed that with louder and to uncomfortable levels to listen for more than a minute it sounded fuller.
  I think I should accept that the o07 just aren't for me, I think I will stick with the 507 since the 009 is out of my league.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Gonna disagree with everybody here.  The 007 would only sound darker and the bass would be looser on lesser amps like the 007t than it does on the best stuff.


 

 x2


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> How can it be a lousy chain for the SR-007 and a good one for the 009 at the same time ? The SRM-007t was fed by this Ayon CD-2


 
   
  I don't know enough about how the various electrostat amps (or nearly as much experience with the various Stax and non-Stax amps that others do) to know why many people have noted that the 009 seems easier to drive than the 007.  I'd presume that it has something to do with the voltage swing capabilities of each amp, as it seems to be one of the more key differences between the 323S and other Stax amps?
   
  I had another HFer recently listen to my setup for many hours.  He's free to share his thoughts here if he'd like, but iirc, one of the things he noted was that the bass was reproduced very well.  Tbh though, my preamp, converter, and tube rolling has had a significant impact on that.  By itself, the stock GES and 323S probably would not get a lot of people to headphone nirvana (they are nice amps though, so don't take this as discouragement).  The 007 is strongly influenced by everything in the signal chain, and I'm looking forward to reading more BHSE impressions.


----------



## padam

I would say that even the SRM-717 struggles to drive the O2 Mk1 properly.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





padam said:


> I would say that even the SRM-717 struggles to drive the O2 Mk1 properly.


 

 The SRM-T2 cranked out 630V. If that's the ideal for the O2, none of the lesser Stax amps come anywhere close to that, certainly not the tube amps which I think still max out at 340V.


----------



## MuppetFace

Is the SR-009 going to be on the brighter side with my KGSS? Would it actually be worthwhile to pick up an SRM-717 just for driving them?


----------



## spritzer

It really depends on the volume levels you listen at.  Keep them at sane levels and the SR-009 is just lovely on the KGSS.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The SRM-T2 cranked out 630V. If that's the ideal for the O2, none of the lesser Stax amps come anywhere close to that, certainly not the tube amps which I think still max out at 340V.


 

 I found the information that my SRA14S makes about 400V - which is more than a SRM 1 Mk2!?! I thought there is a SRM 1 MK2 board insider the SRA 14S!!!
  I'm confused. And is 400V enough)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> .
> 
> There's also the matter of the SRM-212 I'm looking at, and it has an external AC adapter...for 100V. Not exactly in line with the US 120V standard. How easy would it be to rectify this little issue, either by way of step-up transformer or a different AC adapter altogether?


 


 Either will work, I've done both with my SRM-252.
  Ebay has the 100V > 120V adapters, they look like a wall wart and connect to your existing 100 volt wall wart.
  You can also use a standard 12 volt - 1/2 amp to 120 volt adapter with the correct plug for your SRM-212.
  Do keep in mind that most likely the tip polarity of the 12 volt plug will need to be reversed to work with the Stax amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> I found the information that my SRA14S makes about 400V - which is more than a SRM 1 Mk2!?! I thought there is a SRM 1 MK2 board insider the SRA 14S!!!
> I'm confused. And is 400V enough)
> 
> Regards Georg


 

 They are similar but not the same.  Higher rail voltages plus some other changes


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Either will work, I've done both with my SRM-252.
> Ebay has the 100V > 120V adapters, they look like a wall wart and connect to your existing 100 volt wall wart.
> You can also use a standard 12 volt - 1/2 amp to 120 volt adapter with the correct plug for your SRM-212.
> Do keep in mind that most likely the tip polarity of the 12 volt plug will need to be reversed to work with the Stax amp.


 

 Will do, thanks. If I go the transformer route, what would you recommend? There seem to be several at the $30-40 shipped range to choose from.
   
  In other news...I knew I wasn't gonna win this Lambda Pro + SRM-1/Mk2 Pro auction, but I didn't expect the bidding to go THAT high even hours before the snipers strike! US$785 + $20 shipping? Is it me, or is someone seriously overpaying for this given how I've seen the exact same combination sell for a mere $400 on a forum B/S/T section once?


----------



## john8787

I have a Stax SRD-7 adapter (normal bias) and SRX Mk 3 headphones that I haven't used since moving to a larger house 21 years ago. I also have Sennheiser HD540 Reference (600 ohm) headphones that I used for a bit of editing work in the 90s.
   
  After research yesterday, I ordered an Audinst HUD-MX1 DAC / headphone amplifier so that I can use the HD540s with a computer. Can the SRD-7 be connected directly to the HUD-MX1 -- maybe from the headphone output -- and is there enough power to drive it?
   
  If not, what are some of the dedicated amps that you are using to drive Stax adapters? I don't need the amp to drive speakers, so sound quality trumps loudness, as long as there's enough output to drive the SRD-7. I 'm looking for something that won't fare too badly if I swap in the David Berning EA230 tube amp I use to drive my Quad ESL57 speakers for comparison.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Those transformer boxes are made to take speaker-level input, not headphone-level input. Since I don't have much knowledge on speaker amps, I don't know what I should suggest.
   
  Right now, I'm feeding my SRD-7/SB with an old Onkyo TX-SV515PRO receiver that my stepfather had lying around unused. (I'd use his Sansui 8080DB instead if he'd let me, but he's way too sentimental when it comes to that one. There's no other speaker amps here save for another receiver in the living room.)


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Will do, thanks. If I go the transformer route, what would you recommend? There seem to be several at the $30-40 shipped range to choose from.


 
   
  Sorry, I cant really recommend one over the other.
  The ones that I've seen on ebay are all cheap Chinese made junk.
  A while back I bought a used SRM-252 to replace my burned out unit.
  It came with the adapter. Model #TI-351 made by Kashimura Co.
  Sounds Japanese, but made in China.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It really depends on the volume levels you listen at.  Keep them at sane levels and the SR-009 is just lovely on the KGSS.


 

 That's good to know!


----------



## pigmode

What are the strengths of the 009 vis a vis the HD800 with regard to classical music, and vice versa?


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





pigmode said:


> What are the strengths of the 009 vis a vis the HD800 with regard to classical music, and vice versa?


 
   
  Its better in every way except sound staging.
   
  Read Tyll's (excellent) shootout between them if you want a longer explanation.
   
  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/comparing-world-class-headphones


----------



## ardilla

I'm thinking about the O2. What is the most cost effective way to drive it? Woo Wee + a nice small wattage tubeamp? Miniwatt? Decaware Taboo?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





ardilla said:


> I'm thinking about the O2. What is the most cost effective way to drive it? Woo Wee + a nice small wattage tubeamp? Miniwatt? Decaware Taboo?


 

 SRM-323S. The WEE and whatever amp you could get for the same cost as the 323S would be no match for it.


----------



## ardilla

I have a nice SS integrated Creek 5350SE http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_4/creek-5350-integrated-amplifier-10-2003.html. Could that be a good option? I would prefer tubes, but I think if I go for the WEE, I could upgrade to a nice tube integrated that also drive other heaphones (Leben, Cary etc..) Or I might get a small tube power-amp and use the pre out from the creek. 
   
  When I auditioned the o2 it was with the 007 driver, I the bass felt bloated - FWIR that's beacuse it is underpowered..
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> SRM-323S. The WEE and whatever amp you could get for the same cost as the 323S would be no match for it.


----------



## pigmode

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


   
  Thanks TM, that was great.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Its better in every way except sound staging.
> 
> Read Tyll's (excellent) shootout between them if you want a longer explanation.
> 
> http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/comparing-world-class-headphones


 


  I wish Sennheiser would get back into the electrostatic racket. Their current flagship is underwhelming compared to their past efforts.


  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> SRM-323S. The WEE and whatever amp you could get for the same cost as the 323S would be no match for it.


 


  Agreed. The SRM-323S is a surprisingly capable amp for the money.


----------



## Elysian

Mmm... the HD800 is much better to my ears than the LCD2 R2 in the proper amp.  If the amp is a bottleneck, then the LCD2 would probably be preferable to most ears.
   
  In a proper chain, I like the HD800 (only for the soundstaging).  I wouldn't necessarily say it's better or worse than the 007/009, just different.  Ofc, people are obsessed about what's best, rather than finding what's pleasing to their ears.


----------



## pigmode

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Mmm... the HD800 is much better to my ears than the LCD2 R2 in the proper amp.  If the amp is a bottleneck, then the LCD2 would probably be preferable to most ears.
> 
> In a proper chain, I like the HD800 (only for the soundstaging).  I wouldn't necessarily say it's better or worse than the 007/009, just different.  Ofc, people are obsessed about what's best, rather than finding what's pleasing to their ears.


 

  
   
   
  For myself I'm not looking so much for *the* best, but for what works best.


----------



## Elysian

Yes, you'll enjoy the 007/009 a lot more if you don't approach the 007/009 as the be-all end-all headphone, but rather a headphone that does a remarkable job representing everything behind it in the chain.
   
  If you're open to experimentation and research, the O2 is very rewarding, as I've found it very responsive to adjustments in my setup.
   
  If soundstaging is your #1 thing, the HD800 has it beat, but if you don't mind a more forward presentation (combined with phenomenal detail and the potential for very good bass reproduction and impact), there are a lot of really interesting things you can do with the O2.  The thing I like about the O2 is that the O2 is not the bottleneck in my system, which is currently my tubes and power amp.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Yes, you'll enjoy the 007/009 a lot more if you don't approach the 007/009 as the be-all end-all headphone, but rather a headphone that does a remarkable job representing everything behind it in the chain.
> 
> If you're open to experimentation and research, the O2 is very rewarding, as I've found it very responsive to adjustments in my setup.
> 
> If sound staging is your #1 thing, the HD800 has it beat, but if you don't mind a more forward presentation (combined with phenomenal detail and the potential for very good bass reproduction and impact), there are a lot of really interesting things you can do with the O2.  The thing I like about the O2 is that the O2 is not the bottleneck in my system, which is currently my tubes and power amp.


 

 When you say 'more forward', are you describing less sound stage? The sound is more in your ears, as apposed to further in front of you, and wider?  This is how I feel about the HD800 vs LCD-2 rev.2.  What about the 009, are they forward sounding as well (compared to HD800). I've read Tyll's article awhile back, but that's only one persons opinion.


----------



## Elysian

Not really, though if you consider the listener at the origin point of a 3D graph, and if we say that soundstage is a 3D volume around the origin (which varies based on headphone, amp, and source), then, to my ears, a properly amped HD800 has more volume than the O2, and the O2 more than the LCD2 R2.
   
  When I say forward, the O2 gives me more of a sense of being in front of the musicians, whereas the HD800 puts you in the middle of the performance.  The effect can vary /significantly/ based on your amp, preamp, source, and transport, though.  I have not had the chance to use a component (like an ARC3 or VTL 7.5) which are renowned for putting the listener at the middle of the stage, so maybe it's possible?
   
  I haven't been able to get my O2 to give me that 'in the eye of the storm' sensation that I got from the HD800, but I have gotten an awesome forward presentation that works remarkably well with vocalists, solo instruments (particularly cello, piano, and violin), and rock.
   
  I would disagree with the characterization of 'more in your ears'.  The listening depth is more narrow, but it's still very easy to place the various discrete components of the music.  I will admit, though, if I go simply from BADA -> GES -> O2, then yes, the soundstage is fairly flat.  My preamp was necessary to give the soundstage 3D depth, which several people have now agreed after hearing my latest changes.
   
  In general, I see headphone fans put way too much emphasis on their headphones, and not nearly enough on their chain.
   
  I only heard the 009 at a mini-meet.  I wasn't that impressed by the 009, but everyone else, in general, seems to be, so take that for what you will.  From listening to the 009, in the right setup, I think it has the potential to have a wider soundstage than the 007, but I'd be surprised if it's a dramatic difference.
   
  Fwiw, all of the above may be very different with a BHSE, Electra, or some other exotic creature.  I'm likely going to be experimenting with amps and tubes well into 2012.


----------



## n3rdling

009 has a very obviously larger soundstage than 007.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> 009 has a very obviously larger soundstage than 007.


 

 And where does this leave the Lambda line, may I ask? I don't think I heard a concrete opinion there on Lambda vs. SR-007 soundstage. (Though it might depend a little on exactly which Lambda model for all I know...but what I do know is that my vintage Lambda has the widest, airiest presentation I've ever heard, and I wouldn't expect any less from my in-transit SR-202.)
   
  For that matter, while we're talking soundstage, does it ever get to a point where binaural recordings/surround filters start to suffer in terms of effectiveness, or does it only get better the wider you get?


----------



## n3rdling

The Lambdas have a larger soundstage than the 007 and smaller than the 009/Omega.  
   
  I can't comment on binaural recordings since I really never listen to those for pleasure.  I don't really care about the size of soundstage, to me precise imaging and air around notes is what matters.  The Lambdas have lots of air around notes but the imaging is nowhere near as precise as the 007/009 for example.  The HD800 has a bigger soundstage than all of those but the imaging precision suffers.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Well, the soundstage/imaging matter is very important to me in the sense that I have to know just where those gunshots and footsteps and explosions and whatnot are coming from while gaming.
   
  Right now, my Lambda's the best I've found for that so far (with CMSS-3D Headphone turned on), but I haven't had much experience with other headphones.
   
  Music-wise, it's hard for me to tell where anything is coming from other than a left-to-right general sense. I believe this has much to do with how most music is generally mixed to begin with.


----------



## Elysian

It's very easy to tell the left-to-right with the O2, and even moreso with the 009 (particularly on classical recordings).  Actually, someone mentioned to me last week how easy it was to pick up on that on the O2, and it makes some recordings present a very different presentation.
   
  For FPS gaming though, a cheap 4.1 and 5.1 speaker setup is still much better.  I don't hear much difference between the O2 and a cheap $50 gaming headset in terms of the 360degrees stereo PC game sound output.


----------



## schorsch

A lot of old brochures information about Stax ...  can be found at:
   
  http://new-hifi-classic.de/Gallery_MO/thumbnails.php?album=246
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote:


elysian said:


> For FPS gaming though, a cheap 4.1 and 5.1 speaker setup is still much better.  I don't hear much difference between the O2 and a cheap $50 gaming headset in terms of the 360degrees stereo PC game sound output.


 
   
  You're just gaming in stereo from the sound of it. CMSS-3D Headphone out of my X-Fi cards is the one thing that made me not want to bother with loudspeakers, as I suddenly had impressive directionality, especially with the right cans (AD700 at first, Lambda now). I even have height cues in DirectSound3D and OpenAL titles, something I don't expect 5.1/7.1 speakers to handle with absolutely no height channels whatsoever. In fact, the one thing that upsets me with newer titles is that they use software audio engines that pre-mix everything to 7.1 at most, losing height information, or stereo at worst, reducing everything to a one-dimensional left-to-right soundstage...and there's no binaural option whatsoever! CMSS-3D Headphone still functions reasonably well, but not nearly as well as it does when it has the 3D spatial coordinates for every sound source that DS3D and OAL permit.
   
  That said, the main reason I cannot consider loudspeakers is the room. The computer room has no less than three desktops in it, and there's no ideal place for a set of surround speakers in there. Then there's the whole issue of acoustically treating that whole room so everything sounds right, especially if I'm going to step up to dipole speakers like ESLs. I also don't live alone, so I can't have the rest of the family bothered by the noise while they're blaring away.


----------



## Elysian

I haven't tried the latest 3D processing from Creative, but I read a few people on the forums say it works well.  I think the last time I tried various software solutions wrt was 2-3 years back, which I didn't like.  Last I read up on it on the hardcore PC gaming sites, the reception was fairly mixed.  Works well for some folks, not for others.
   
  Yeah, the biggest thing that dissuades me from a true surround setup is how much space it takes, and managing the wiring.  The main benefit I got from a surround implementation was for positioning, but I spent most of my time playing more 2D shooters like CS and DOD (as opposed to Quake, UT, etc.).


----------



## t1174

RIP Stax...(again?)


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> *The Lambdas have a larger soundstage than the 007* and smaller than the 009/Omega.


 
   
  And that's one reason I rarely use my SR-007s (also too poor to afford a proper amp for them)


----------



## charliex

Stax Japan now defunct - welcome Stax China - good or bad you decide.


----------



## Mambosenior

Mao goodness!


----------



## El_Doug

can you guys provide links to elaborate on this!?!?
   
  all i've seen is the thread on this forum, which doesnt have any sources (besides a chinese headphone forum).  the only news on the "other site" links back to the thread here
   
   
   
  edit:  it is official, edifier is buying out stax.  chinese press release here:  http://www.edifier.com/sce2009/news/viewthread.php?ID=1535


----------



## Smeckles

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> can you guys provide links to elaborate on this!?!?
> 
> all i've seen is the thread on this forum, which doesnt have any sources (besides a chinese headphone forum).  the only news on the "other site" links back to the thread here


 

 same thing posted elsewhere
   
http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/12/08/edifier-buying-stax/


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





charliex said:


> Stax Japan now defunct - welcome Stax China - good or bad you decide.


 

 It has no bearing on the amps as the best ones aren't made by Stax anyway. The likelihood of them making a T2 successor was pretty much zilch. If anything cash from the new owners might make a new flagship amp more likely. The headphones.. it's impossible to say. There could be some new more affordable models made possible by Chinese production. If the SR-009 sticks around, it will likely remain a Japanese product, similar to the way Canon and Nikon still produce their very best glass at home.


----------



## n3rdling

I'm surprised they were worth 15.5 million dollars


----------



## MuppetFace

Wow... this is big news. To what extent it's _bad _news, I'm not sure.
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I'm surprised they were worth 15.5 million dollars


 

 Ha. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought this!


----------



## MuppetFace

To celebrate the buying out of Stax, I went ahead and finally pulled the trigger on the SR-009.
   
  I think my partner is going to be just a wee bit mad....


----------



## ardilla

Well, HiFiman is Chinese, look what they've done to the non-electrostat market. Chinese isn't necessary bad. Besides, I guess they aren't gonna fire the japanese developers....
  Quote: 





charliex said:


> Stax Japan now defunct - welcome Stax China - good or bad you decide.


----------



## NamelessPFG

As long as the SR-009 doesn't end up being the next Orpheus (price and rarity-wise), we should be fine.
   
  However, I'm still curious as to what this means for the not-so-wallet-busting Lambda models, and what Edifier plans regarding more affordable Stax products. After all, the big barrier to entry regarding Stax isn't so much the headphone prices, but the prices of the driver units that cost just as much, if not more than the headphones themselves.


----------



## KANA

quote:


el_doug said:


> can you guys provide links to elaborate on this!?!?
> 
> all i've seen is the thread on this forum, which doesnt have any sources (besides a chinese headphone forum).  the only news on the "other site" links back to the thread here
> 
> ...


   
   
  adding a japanese source (Nikkei is the most trusted news source for the Japanese economy.), it says...
  
   
  On December 9th, Edifier Technology Co.,Ltd. , chinese audio equipment manufacturer announced that they acquires the japanese headphone manufacturer STAX. The price is 120 million yen (1.55million US$). Edifier Tech says that they try to expand sales for tying the Stax's high technology and their own low-cost production technology. This is one of the examples that Japanese companies with high techlonogy to acquire Chinese companies.
 Edifier Tech buys all the shares held by the president of Stax, Meguro. Edifier Thechnology is one of the chinese companys that produce a speaker or earphone. Their revenue in 2010 is 719 million yuan. They focus on Stax's high-technology of electrostatic headphones. According to the Edifier Tech, Stax had a deficit for the delay in new product launches in 2009, but in 2010, Stax has returned to profitability.
   
   
  Say it ain't so  STAX!!!!!


----------



## Elysian

Hopefully the new owners find a better repair company for North America customers.


----------



## paulchiu

$1.55 million US?????
  That makes no sense at all.
  A 1 bedroom apartment in Manhattan cost more than that.
  Is this a joke?
   

  
  Quote: 





kana said:


> quote:
> 
> 
> el_doug said:
> ...


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> $1.55 million US?????
> That makes no sense at all.
> A 1 bedroom apartment in Manhattan cost more than that.
> Is this a joke?


 

 I believe it was $15 million, not $1.5 million.


----------



## Elysian

Maybe Stax doesn't have a lot of IP that's still defensible, and Edifier is taking on Stax debt?  Tbh, I'm amazed they're even profitable.


----------



## Elysian

Edit: Nevermind.  Google Translate was incorrect.  Please see my message below.


----------



## KANA

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> $1.55 million US?????
> That makes no sense at all.
> A 1 bedroom apartment in Manhattan cost more than that.
> Is this a joke?


 


   
  It's no joke.
  nikkei says "1億2000万円"　＝　120,000,000yen ≒ $ 1,546,000


----------



## ardilla

The price of a company is based on future income minus debt. A company with high turnover and no earnings is worth zero.  But then Elysian corrected the number to 25 million USD. 
  Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> $1.55 million US?????
> That makes no sense at all.
> A 1 bedroom apartment in Manhattan cost more than that.
> Is this a joke?


----------



## paulchiu

1 or even 25 million, this is very sad news for this 70+ years company and for those of us fans over the last half century.
   

  
  Quote: 





ardilla said:


> The price of a company is based on future income minus debt. A company with high turnover and no earnings is worth zero.  But then Elysian corrected the number to 25 million USD.


----------



## Elysian

I was incorrect.  I just spoke with a Japanese coworker and they confirmed that Google Translate gave an incorrect translation.
   
  Stax was sold for apprx $1mm USD.  Edifier does about $80mm USD in revenue.
   
  Quote: 





ardilla said:


> The price of a company is based on future income minus debt. A company with high turnover and no earnings is worth zero.


 
   
  Yes, it's a straightforward way to assess the value of a company, which they teach in basic business accounting.
   
  Even without looking at the numbers, you can tell that there are fundamental issues with Stax's business which makes it highly unlikely for the business to grow much beyond what it's currently at.  Tbh, this may have been one of the best outcomes for Stax, as their financial situation (lack of growth prospects, debt, probably had small assets, etc.) probably was almost certainly an albatross to advancing the technology and servicing customers.


----------



## ardilla

If STAX isn't worth more, they aren't doing very good business presently. So maybe a this is a good thing.... if the alternative is no STAX at all. The chinese will probably cut cost in production and change market strategy. Only time will show. 
  Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> 1 or even 25 million, this is very sad news for this 70+ years company and for those of us fans over the last half century.


----------



## Elysian

I hope that the Chinese will figure out how to make a $2.5k SR009.  The top-tier Chinese audio companies are making $5-10k amps and preamps that punch in the $20k+ weight class and are well-regarded in Asia and the western world, though they're still fighting to erase the stigma of copycat firms and companies peddling budget products with poor R&D.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I hope that the Chinese will figure out how to make a $2.5k SR009.


 

 That would be nice, if and only if the exacting build standards are maintained.


----------



## Elysian

What goes into building the 007 and 009?  Do they need a clean room environment?  Do they custom-make most of the parts or do they outsource components to Chinese/SE Asia companies?  How customized are the components?  How many hours does it take to assemble a headphone?
   
  From speaking with a distributor for one high-end Chinese audio company, the Chinese companies definitely realize that you can forecast a certain demand depending on which price tier you're in, and that $5000 price is probably significantly hindering sales, particularly given how long Stax headphones typically last.


----------



## spritzer

All Stax drivers are assembled in a clean room.  It's the only way to assure they will work flawlessly for decades to come.  Rest of the parts are all custom made to exacting specs.  If a stator is even a few microns out of alignment then the distortion increases significantly. 
   
  FTW. The SR-009 has already outsold the Orpheus by nearly a factor of two and is fast approaching the sales figures of the original SR-Omega in less than one year.  The HE90's took more than a decade to sell and the SR-Omegas about 3 years.  The price is clearly not a problem.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Stax was sold for apprx $1mm USD.


 


  Ok that makes more sense.


----------



## paulchiu

$1mm for a company with $80mm in revenue?
  what's the outstanding debt?
  were credit derivatives involved?
  good grief!
   

  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Ok that makes more sense.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





paulchiu said:


> $1mm for a company with $80mm in revenue?


 
   
  No, you misread my post. Edifier makes $80mm/yr in revenue, not Stax.  No idea what Stax makes in annual revenue.
   
  Granted, the colleague who read over the Nikkei article skimmed it pretty quick, but I remember that being mentioned during translation.
   
  We have a few Japanese speakers in this thread, so they can probably clarify if they care to.


----------



## visualguy

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Elysian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> No, you misread my post. Edifier makes $80mm/yr in revenue, not Stax.  No idea what Stax makes in annual revenue.


 

 Close to $3M I believe.


----------



## Elysian

Well, regardless, they've got enough cash on hand to buy Stax outright.  Edifier's corporate website says they have 3,000 employees, so it seems like they're doing something right.
   
  Apparently you have to be careful while translating numbers from certain Asian languages, because software translation services miss context.


----------



## milosz

Stax sold for $1 million?  Spritzer, why didn't you sell half your gear to raise money and buy them?


----------



## wink

I hear he's put in a bid for Koss and HEAUDIO, and couldn't commit to the Stax situation by the time he heard about it.........  Yeah, Right..!!!


----------



## MuppetFace

HeAudio? Sprtizer? Now there's an unlikely pair. ; )


----------



## MuppetFace

The Stax Mafia could always show up on Edifier's doorstep with some "friendly advice"....


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Stax sold for $1 million?  Spritzer, why didn't you sell half your gear to raise money and buy them?


 

 I know for a fact that the amount is far higher than that.  Why are people relying on online translation services for simple math?


----------



## vrln

Too early to say if the new owner is a good or a bad thing. Would be interesting if they would move production of the Lambda lineup to China and lower prices (go more mass market), then keep the high end stuff made in Japan. Might not be a bad thing at all for Stax. I´m suprised the buyer wasn´t IAG though, Stax would have suited their lineup nicely and they seem to be on a roll lately (Audiolab etc).


----------



## davidhenry1079

Quote: 





carl said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *duderuud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


 

 Ok, is that Chinese or Korean,uh?


----------



## spekkio

Japanese...


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I know for a fact that the amount is far higher than that.  Why are people relying on online translation services for simple math?


 

 The numbers are based off of what at least one, possibly two (if KANA is one) native Japanese speakers translated the Nikkei article as, not online translation services.  I received a line-by-line translation of the Nikkei article in person.
   
  If you have additional information to share, I'm sure people would be interested in hear more context or corrections to Nikkei's reporting.


----------



## pigmode

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> To celebrate the buying out of Stax, I went ahead and finally pulled the trigger on the SR-009.


 


   
  Smart.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I know for a fact that the amount is far higher than that.  Why are people relying on online translation services for simple math?


 
  I still think you should have bought it.


----------



## wink

^ x 2
   
  Coul'da bought Stax for the price of a dozen Icelandic bagels.........


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





elysian said:


> The numbers are based off of what at least one, possibly two (if KANA is one) native Japanese speakers translated the Nikkei article as, not online translation services.  I received a line-by-line translation of the Nikkei article in person.
> 
> If you have additional information to share, I'm sure people would be interested in hear more context or corrections to Nikkei's reporting.


 

 I have my sources but I can't post anything about them.  Same deal as I knew about the takeover a long time ago but couldn't say anything.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

What the hell, do you happen to go on weekends hangout with the owner, drink some martinis and do some listening sessions. Damn stax mafia


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I have my sources but I can't post anything about them.  Same deal as I knew about the takeover a long time ago but couldn't say anything.


 


 Reading that, I feel like a mushroom....


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I have my sources but I can't post anything about them.  Same deal as I knew about the takeover a long time ago but couldn't say anything.


 

  
  You seem to be relatively unfazed by this acquisition. Mr. Gilmore as well. Perhaps there's more to this news than meets the eye. In your opinion, would it be wise to buy whatever Stax equipment we want as soon as possible, or wait it out and hope for the best?


----------



## Currawong

Said Chinese company has a lot of foreigners in their team that look interesting and possibly serious.  Still, many questions, few answers.


----------



## spritzer

I'm not too worried about all of this, I was certainly more worried about the future without Stax getting some much needed capital. I'm also sure Edifer know why Stax are one of the most respected brands in the world, they make solid products that last for a very long time.  Being Made in Japan is a large part of that but that some of the sub assemblies can be made in China at a lower cost and to the same spec as the current stuff.  I also hope that this will open Stax up a bit to non-Japanese tech since they are a too focused in Japanese transistors for instance.  They are still whittling away at their stock of 2SA1968's when IXYS makes some excellent replacement.


----------



## alcofribas

Are there common uses for high voltage bipolar transistors other than CRTs ?  In other words is this a technology that's likely to disappear, as is happening with so much analog now?  But you probably can design good estat amps using high-voltage MOSFETs.


----------



## kevin gilmore

These days there is absolutely no use for those very low capacitance, high voltage transistors.
  Which is why they are being discontinued.  The mosfets that do over 1kv have huge gate capacitances
  that are going to require much more drive power to accomplish the same thing. Some newer parts
  are showing up at small boutique silicon manufacturers. Generally this also means the price
  of the individual parts is going to go up significantly. Overall, the price of the amplifiers will not
  go up much.
   
  i'm expecting new technologies from ixys and a couple of other manufacturers to show up
  within the next year, long before stocks of the old parts go away.


----------



## schorsch

New universal headphone amp!
   
  Found an interesting amp made by a German highend audio maker (tubes...)
   
  malvalve headamp 3
   
  It is stated that it can drive all kinds of earspeakers like electrostatic (Stax) / magnetostaic / dynamic ....
   
  Hope to get more information soon )
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

As a 2*12W amp it probably uses transformers to power the Stax outputs.  Nothing new there and the quality of said iron is crucial.


----------



## Pirx

Hello
   
  I have bought brand new SR-507 and used SRM-727A. Amplifier was modified by previous owner.
  But I have measured DC offset: 2,5 V in left channel and 6,5 V in right.
  How can I set right DC offset and check if the bias is right?
  This thread is very long but I didn't find info how to rebias this amp.
  Only Spritzer said it should be done after mod.


----------



## livewire

You should ask spritzer, he's the expert.
  I'm sure he would love to give you a detailed explanation on how to do it.


----------



## spritzer

With a 717/727 the offset and balance are within spec or you don't have any sound since the servo shuts off the output if it gets out of line.  If you'd like to measure it then it's the same as with all the other DC-coupled Stax amps, measure between + and - for each channel and adjust the balance pot for 0VDC.  Measure between + and ground to adjust the offset.  Measurements are taken at the Stax sockets on the front panel.


----------



## Pirx

Thank you for your answer Spritzer 
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> With a 717/727 the offset and balance are within spec or you don't have any sound since the servo shuts off the output if it gets out of line.


 
  Great news !!! Do you exactly know how much is "out of line"?
   
   
  Quote: 





> If you'd like to measure it then it's the same as with all the other DC-coupled Stax amps, measure between + and - for each channel and adjust the balance pot for 0VDC.


 
   
  I did measure between + and - for each channel and got 2,5 and 6,5 V.
   
   
  Quote: 





> Measure between + and ground to adjust the offset.


 
   
  The question is how to adjust? I have found two _variable resistors but I have no idea if I should touch any of them _
   
  Did modyfication change transistors bias in power stage?


----------



## schorsch

Malvalve update,
   
  I wrote an Email where I could listen to the amp and if there will be a Stax only amp!
  Their answer was
   
  That they are goin a so called: "power amp one OTL-Stax"
   
  Which sounds pretty interesting
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

wow Stax need a lot of power eh?


----------



## livewire

Not really. What is needed is "high voltage".
  Voltage is part of the power equation.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Can Stax ear speakers be run from another amp other than an electrostatic amp?


----------



## livewire

*QUOTE: *_"Can Stax ear speakers be run from another amp other than an electrostatic amp?"_
   
  Not directly.
  You would need to use a transformer box converter between the ear-speaker and the dynamic speaker amp.
  These are known as "energizers".
  Woo Audio currently makes one named the "Woo Wee".
   
http://www.wooaudio.com/products/wee.html


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Ah I see.  Ok.  What is the big difference between the MKA and the MK2?  If I wanted to run something from my laptop is there an Electrostat amp that can run as a DAC also?
  
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> *QUOTE: *_"Can Stax ear speakers be run from another amp other than an electrostatic amp?"_
> 
> Not directly.
> You would need to use a transformer box converter between the ear-speaker and the dynamic speaker amp.
> ...


----------



## pachku

> If I wanted to run something from my laptop is there an Electrostat amp that can run as a DAC also?


 
   
  AFAIK, nope. But if you're serious about the 'stats, your budget is going to blow up sky-high anyway, so get a good DAC


----------



## Elysian

Yeah.  If you're seriously considering the 007 or 009, leave the sticker shock and frugality at the door, because those headphones deserve a good chain.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Ah I see.  Ok.  What is the big difference between the MKA and the MK2?  If I wanted to run something from my laptop is there an Electrostat amp that can run as a DAC also?


 

 With a laptop as a source, your best bet is an asynchronous USB DAC into an amp like the SRM-323S. The JKDAC would do the job nicely, though there's a whole bunch of asynch USB DACs now ranging from a few hundred to $10K+.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Ah I see.  Ok.  What is the big difference between the MKA and the MK2?
> 
> *Could you be more specific?*
> 
> ...


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

I'm still learning about these and I wish I could be more specific.  But I'm learning and read up when things are mentioned to me.  =)
   
  Thanks for the advice.  I was actually looking to get the W4S DAC-2 as my dac hoping that I would be able to use the MK2 with it but I think thats a no go.  If anything I think I might need to get an asynchronous USB DAC so its a lill cheaper and I can spend more money on the amp and the ear speaker.  But MY laptop is a macbook pro.  I have applelossless files and 24/192 files from HD tracks.  I was thinking of going for the LCD-3 but I came across Stax SR007-MK2 and read about the MKA and the MK2 apparently there is another version and I do like the way it has been described.  I like to hear detail but I like to hear the bass also.  I currently am using the NFB-5 and I have the HE-4 but I feel an itch for up gratis...lol


----------



## livewire

Well there is the Stax SR-007* Mk2* ear speaker.
  Not exactly a bass monster but will do nicely if properly amped.
  IMO, better than most dynamic cans, but not all who listen enjoy the "Stax sound".
  Try before you buy. It's your poor wallet. $$$ Cha-ching!


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

=)  it sprung my interest.  I've read its got good sound stage and a little warmth but detailed.  Am I right?  If I am not please correct me.  
  
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Well there is the Stax SR-007 _Mk2_ ear speaker...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Thanks for the advice.  I was actually looking to get the W4S DAC-2 as my dac hoping that I would be able to use the MK2 with it but I think thats a no go.


 

 There are much better DACs than the W4S for similar money. The Calyx for example costs exactly the same, or $1850 with the new linear power supply upgrade, and is much better. The USB implementation in the W4S just isn't that great. There is no DAC available that you can use to drive a stat directly. You can however spend the same amount of money as the W4S on the JKDAC and 323S combo, or you can buy something like the new Cambridge DacMagic Plus if you want a more fully featured DAC.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

What is the JKDAC?  I looked at the 323s and what is its sound signature like?  I'll look at the Calyx.  I was also looking at the dacport LX.  But I just need some good advice.  =)  Which you all are giving me.  Thank you.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> What is the JKDAC?  I looked at the 323s and what is its sound signature like?  I'll look at the Calyx.  I was also looking at the dacport LX.  But I just need some good advice.  =)  Which you all are giving me.  Thank you.


 

 The JKDAC is made by M2Tech Hiface modder John Kenny. It's Sabre based and battery powered. Not a lot of features, but it's supposed to sound very good for the money.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


davebsc said:


> The Calyx for example costs exactly the same, or $1850 with the new linear power supply upgrade, and is much better.


 

 I was considering getting the Calyx several months ago, but went with the Cary Xciter, mainly because they're located in the US if there's any need for repairs or warranty stuff.  That said, I'm still curious about the Calyx and how it compares to other high-end offerings, including DACs that are higher in price (Weiss, Berkeley, Antelope, etc.).  If you have any insight to provide on this, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pirx said:


> Thank you for your answer Spritzer
> Great news !!! Do you exactly know how much is "out of line"?
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think the cut off voltage is 20VDC but I'm not sure.  Too lazy to look up the schematic... 
   
  There are two variable resistors per channel, one controls the balance and the other one controls the offset.  You adjust via the holes in the side of the chassis. 
   
  Outputstage bias is fixed.  The only change with this mod is to move the feedback loop so that it covers all of the stages.


----------



## Elysian

If I was looking for a DAC with built-in async USB around the price range of a new W4S2, I would probably try to find a used Ayre QB-9 to test.  It uses Gordon Rankin's (Wavelength audio) Wavestream controller, which is used on the WaveLink converter and is generally well-regarded, and you can find a used QB-9 in the low $2k last I checked prices.
   
  I haven't heard the Ayre, but it might be worth seeking out for a test.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

I was looking at the 323s and on a site it said that I'd need a step-down transformer.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


elysian said:


> If I was looking for a DAC with built-in async USB around the price range of a new W4S2, I would probably try to find a used Ayre QB-9 to test.  It uses Gordon Rankin's (Wavelength audio) Wavestream controller, which is used on the WaveLink converter and is generally well-regarded, and you can find a used QB-9 in the low $2k last I checked prices.
> 
> I haven't heard the Ayre, but it might be worth seeking out for a test.


 

 It's limited to 96/24, but sounds awesome.


----------



## verwandlung

Is there any downside in using a transformer with the SRM-717 to convert 100V (Japan) into 115V (US)?


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Oh I wish we could test out audio here in Hawaii but there are hardly any audiophiles here.  I doubt there are any Stax or electrostatic amps or ear speakers too.  IF there is I think I could count it on one hand.


----------



## Pirx

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> I think the cut off voltage is 20VDC but I'm not sure.  Too lazy to look up the schematic...
> ...


 

 Thank you for your help Spritzer !!!


----------



## NamelessPFG

I just got my SR-202 + SRM-212. Pretty much what I expected.
   
  However, there is one thing I can't quite wrap my head around...how to remove the fork/"case holder" that holds the earcup on these Nova/numerical-style headbands. One of them has its prongs broken, and I have a replacement slated to arrive tomorrow...but that won't do me much good if I can't figure out how to remove the broken one without wrecking the whole thing.


----------



## John Buchanan

I'm guessing you mean you have to remove the case holder from the arc. If you closely look above where the case holders insert into the arc, there is a small metal hollow pin that is inserted into the plastic, You need a punch of the correct size to knock it out and then the case holder will come out to be replaced. After the case holder is replaced, you can usually reinsert the pin using just your finger pressure. It's easy with the right sized pin, trust me.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> I was considering getting the Calyx several months ago, but went with the Cary Xciter, mainly because they're located in the US if there's any need for repairs or warranty stuff.  That said, I'm still curious about the Calyx and how it compares to other high-end offerings, including DACs that are higher in price (Weiss, Berkeley, Antelope, etc.).  If you have any insight to provide on this, I'd appreciate it.


 
   
  I've seen the Calyx described by one Australian reviewer as about 90% of the performance of the Weiss DAC-202, and for what it's worth, by several people including the US distributor as considerably better than the $2700 Ayre QB-9. Streamlength isn't the only game in town anymore. Calyx uses the XMOS system, which is starting to become pretty popular. The April Music Eximus is also using it, for example.
   
  You can power the Calyx three ways, USB (good) the wall-wart (better) or a dedicated linear power supply feeding the 5V DC input (best). Until now people have been using KingRex PSUs for that, but now Calyx has released their own "CLPS" power supply for it so that's no longer necessary.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Is there any downside in using a transformer with the SRM-717 to convert 100V (Japan) into 115V (US)?


 

 If it's a good one, probably not. You can also have the 717 re-wired for 117V.


----------



## Fugue

I have the SR 404 headphones. Does the newer 504 have better bass? The lack of bass response is my only criticism of the 404s. At one point, Stax made some closed electrostats, and presumably they would have better bass. Has anyone heard them. (Sorry if this came up earlier, but I haven't time to wade through 1128 pages of responses!)


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> I'm guessing you mean you have to remove the case holder from the arc. If you closely look above where the case holders insert into the arc, there is a small metal hollow pin that is inserted into the plastic, You need a punch of the correct size to knock it out and then the case holder will come out to be replaced. After the case holder is replaced, you can usually reinsert the pin using just your finger pressure. It's easy with the right sized pin, trust me.


 
   
  That is indeed exactly what I mean.
   
  I see the pin you're talking about and tried to push it out before with all sorts of pins and bent paperclips and whatnot, but to no avail. I guess I just haven't found the right-sized pin yet, even though some of them would seem to be the right size.
   
  Unfortunately, I lack proper punching tools if that's what it takes...
   
  ...This is proving to be the most infuriating thing I've attempted to do in a while.
   
  That is, until I figured out that a narrow-shafted Torx T6 bit mounted on a screwdriver with a flat back did the trick. Now, to wait until tomorrow for the replacement fork...


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> If it's a good one, probably not. You can also have the 717 re-wired for 117V.


 


  Thanks. I am aware that this can be re-wired. Anyway, the amp is no longer for sale.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> That is indeed exactly what I mean.
> 
> I see the pin you're talking about and tried to push it out before with all sorts of pins and bent paperclips and whatnot, but to no avail. I guess I just haven't found the right-sized pin yet, even though some of them would seem to be the right size.
> 
> ...


 

 Getting the pins back in is much easier - you should be able to just push them in with your fingers. Well done!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





fugue said:


> I have the SR 404 headphones. Does the newer 504 have better bass? The lack of bass response is my only criticism of the 404s. At one point, Stax made some closed electrostats, and presumably they would have better bass. Has anyone heard them. (Sorry if this came up earlier, but I haven't time to wade through 1128 pages of responses!)


 


  You might want to do a search for "Stax 4070" for plenty of information on these closed back electrostatics.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Just got the replacement "case holder"/fork today. Yama's/STAX USA sure likes to ship big boxes for such a small part.
   
  The replacement part is noticeably stiffer than what originally shipped on the SR-202, but I did manage to get it on the earcup just fine. All is well now.
   
  That is, so long as that "mosquito noise"/squealing doesn't return. It wasn't an interconnect issue on the prior owner's part after all. When it gets going, it even persists after I unplug the headphones, until I short the pins with my finger. It seems to be random as to when it shows up and when it doesn't.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> That is, so long as that "mosquito noise"/squealing doesn't return. It wasn't an interconnect issue on the prior owner's part after all. When it gets going, it even persists after I unplug the headphones, until I short the pins with my finger. It seems to be random as to when it shows up and when it doesn't.


 

 Sounds like dust got to them.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Sounds like dust got to them.


 

 That could be the case, but I'm wondering how dust would work its way in to start with. From the inside, there's foam and a Mylar layer. From the outside, there's more foam and...some sort of material that's not like what they used on the vintage Lambdas. Seems a lot less solid.
   
  Speaking of the foam, my ears just touch it, and it feels a tad rough. I'm tempted to replace the pads and foam with genuine leather ones and cloth, though the EP-507 set is rather expensive at $100 from Yama's/STAX USA, then move the current pads to the vintage Lambda (which is in dire need of new pads). Only thing is, I'd probably need to get these serviced eventually, so I'd rather keep my $100 around for that, just in case.
   
  Surprisingly enough, though, the higher clamping force isn't disturbing me nearly as much as I thought it would. This is probably because the large earpads distribute the pressure well.


----------



## ex0du5

I'm thinking of getting into Stax. A few questions:
   
  1) I have the AKH K702 which are often described as light on bass. How are the low end Stax headphones in comparison?
  2) Am I generally best to start off with the cheapest Stax/amp combo? I'm assuming there must be heavy diminishing returns at some point.
  3) What would my best entry into Stax be, in your opinion?
  4) I'm in Canada. Where would be the best place to order the headphones?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> I'm thinking of getting into Stax. A few questions:
> 
> 1) I have the AKH K702 which are often described as light on bass. How are the low end Stax headphones in comparison?
> 
> ...


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> I'm thinking of getting into Stax. A few questions:
> 
> 1) I have the AKH K702 which are often described as light on bass. How are the low end Stax headphones in comparison?
> 2) Am I generally best to start off with the cheapest Stax/amp combo? I'm assuming there must be heavy diminishing returns at some point.
> ...


 

 I can't compare to the K702, but this Headphiles review helps convey what the bass is like:
   
   
  Quote: 





> First thing I have to tell you. If you are, like me, coming from a dynamic background you have to leave your preconceived notion of presentation of bass behind. The stax system does not push air into your ear canal, in fact it presents it just outside your ear giving a slightly brighter presentation, fantastic detail and attack but perhaps not any bass slam.
> 
> Now when I say bass slam I mean oomph not bass itself. This is what I mean - you have to re-educate yourself on how bass is really presented to the listener as more of an extension into the mix to give depth where needed or to emphasize a moment. This means you understand bass is there - in shed loads if I may say so, but not in a slam slam manner, but more in a deep cavernous manner designed to broaden what already is a massive sound stage.


 
   
  I'm starting off on more affordable Stax gear myself; as you can see, I just moved up to an SR-202 and SRM-212. It's not as wallet-slaughtering if you keep your eyes peeled for good deals.
   
  The consensus in here is that the best starting point for Stax is a vintage Lambda system. Pre-Lambda models can be good, but not downright outstanding in their eyes, I suppose. (I haven't listened to anything other than a modified/rebuilt SR-Lambda and SR-202, so I can't chime in for myself.) Just keep in mind that the more affordable systems come with transformer boxes, so if you don't already have a speaker amp in some form (for instance, an A/V receiver), that's an additional cost.
   
  As for being in Canada...that complicates things. I don't know if Yama's/STAX USA will ship up there or if there's a Canadian distributor. However, I'm sure you'll find Stax owners all over North America (and even overseas) that will ship to you.


----------



## DaveBSC

For what its worth, there's currently an SR-507 on Audiogon at a pretty good price.


----------



## Elysian

Not a bad price.  I think the last 507 on the HF marketplace went for $650.


----------



## livewire

You dont see this stuff every day -
   
  Entry level Stax system on Audiogon too!
   
  Link:  http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrplan&1328405991&/Stax-SRS-2050-System-used-ears
   
  Besides the SR-507, there is a SRM-323 on Agon also for a pretty good price.
  Wish I had the dough, I'd buy them both. (SR-507 & SRM-323 amp)


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> You dont see this stuff every day -
> 
> Entry level Stax system on Audiogon too!
> 
> ...


 
  Decent price, and he's including a step-down xformer too.


----------



## milosz

I feel that Audiogon is dissing us.  They have no separate category for headphones!  You have to list them as speakers.  The ignominy! The pain of it all!
   
   
_                     I am angered._


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I feel that Audiogon is dissing us.  They have no separate category for headphones!  You have to list them as speakers.  The ignominy! The pain of it all!


 

 Yeah, you usually see them listed as "monitors". That's something Audiogon is supposedly going to fix with their coming redesign. Still, they aren't the greatest place for headphones anyway, you find only a few listed and even fewer amplifiers. Same with home theater equipment like A/V receivers, eBay has about 100X as many of those. Audiogon's focus is really 2 channel.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

By any chance has there been a review on the sr007-MK2.5?  I can't find anything on its sound signature if it's changed from the first mk to the last one.  Can someone please help me.  Thanks


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> By any chance has there been a review on the sr007-MK2.5?  I can't find anything on its sound signature if it's changed from the first mk to the last one.  Can someone please help me.  Thanks


 

 That's the one in production, z3 series and is the worst sounding of the O2s mostly because of the brightness.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Worst because there should be a treble peak?  Strange.  I'd think they'd stick to the more laid back sound.  
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> That's the one in production, z3 series and is the worst sounding of the O2s mostly because of the brightness.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I contacted Yama's today regarding what it might take to fix that driver squeal. They suggested to just replace the whole thing to fix the squeal, claiming it was a diaphragm issue, and while they did offer discounts...they're nowhere near half price.
   
  SR-207 $375 ($420, $45 discount)
  SR-307 $410 ($460, $50 discount)
   
  If they offered $210 and $230 respectively, I'd probably go through with it, but at those prices, definitely not.


----------



## TruBrew

I looked around for the answer, but did not find it. Are all the newer Lambda headbands interchangeable, and if so which one is the most comfortable. I have the SR-507, and need an new headband. I see audiocubes has some but not the one for the 507. I owned the 202 for a short while, and honestly found them more comfortable. I was wondering if I could buy that one. They also have them available for the 303, 404, and nova classic. Which one should I buy?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Almost every Lambda model from the Nova series onwards has an interchangeable headband, but I don't know about the SR-507. That depends on whether or not they changed the size of the holes on each side of the earcup that the "case holder"/fork sticks into.
   
  You could also use a vintage, pre-Nova headband on Nova and later models, just with the issue of the pins not being nearly thick enough, so they fit kind of loosely.


----------



## TruBrew

I saw the thread that referenced the old pins being smaller. I assumed that all of the newer ones would be the same, but didn't want to take a risk before spending the money.
   
  Now that I think of it, I should be able to use my attach the metal brackets from mine to a new headband. So even if it comes with different size pins I should be fine. That is assuming the brackets attach the same way. Considering the price on these headphones, I have been disappointed with the construction of them. They have fallen apart 3 times now. Twice because two different screws decided to pop loose, showering the floor with tiny pieces that had to be pit back together, and a third time because an important plastic part broke.
   
  I am fed up with it, and I liked the 202's comfort better. It is time to suck it up and buy a replacements headband. I was just hoping for some reassurance and recommendations.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> It is time to suck it up and buy a replacements headband. I was just hoping for some reassurance and recommendations.


 
   
  If you are referring to a 507 replacement headband assembly, I seem to recall a cost of $400-450 when I was considering one for my 404's.  Yikes!


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





il mostro said:


> If you are referring to a 507 replacement headband assembly, I seem to recall a cost of $400-450 when I was considering one for my 404's.  Yikes!


 

You're within the ballpark.
   
  The unfortunate implication of this, though, is that the SR-507 costs twice as much as the SR-407 because of the _headband_ of all things.
   
  And I hope those "case holders"/forks don't break, because they're not the same ones used on Nova-style headbands, either...and Yama's/STAX USA won't sell them separately.


----------



## ex0du5

Thanks for the responses guys.
   
  Listening to my K702 some more...to be honest, I feel like there's still a bit too much bass here. I know people seem to feel they're bass light, but I'd say they need to lose a bit more bass to flatten the frequency response a bit. I'd say I'm probably ready for Stax.
   
  So...2170 system or try to find a vintage Lamba system. Hmmmm.
   
  How much better are the Lambdas compared to the low end 202/207s?


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

So is it true that the sr007-mk2.5 is going to more trebly?


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I contacted Yama's today regarding what it might take to fix that driver squeal. They suggested to just replace the whole thing to fix the squeal, claiming it was a diaphragm issue, and while they did offer discounts...they're nowhere near half price.
> 
> SR-207 $375 ($420, $45 discount)
> SR-307 $410 ($460, $50 discount)
> ...


 
  Have you tried open the drivers up and check the inside?


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Anyone?  ANy reviews on the SR007-MK2.5?


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Anyone?  ANy reviews on the SR007-MK2.5?


 


  Why don't you try to make a search here or google it, without the “.5” just for fun?


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

I have and nothings come of it.  I got a video from youtube but they only talk about the mk1.
  
  Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Why don't you make a search here or google it without the “.5” just for fun?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





ex0du5 said:


> How much better are the Lambdas compared to the low end 202/207s?






  I wish I could help you with comparing the SR-Lambda (Normal bias) to the SR-202, but there's just one big problem that makes my impressions meaningless: the Lambda in question having its drivers rebuilt, thus no longer being in stock condition.
   
  I know that spritzer prefers the SR-Lambda to the SR-202 (and especially to the Lambda Pro and its allegedly recessed midrange), but I'm not exactly certain why. For all I know, part of it may not necessarily have to do with the sound quality itself, but the comfort; he finds the SR-507 rather uncomfortable for his large head, and the pre-Nova vintage Lambdas have the lightest clamping force due to the arc/headband design.
   
  Of course, there's another big variable with the SR-Lambda being...well, Normal bias as opposed to Pro bias like every model that succeeded it. On top of that, most such units come with an SRD-7 energizer/transformer box instead of a dedicated amp like the SRM-1/Mk2 or SRM-T1. If someone auditions the SR-202 from a Pro bias-only amp (like I have, even if it's just a mere SRM-212), that's another variable involved.
   
  Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Have you tried open the drivers up and check the inside?


 

 No. I'm not ballsy enough to do that to something I can't afford to replace. If I was...well, I'd probably be like you and build my own electrostatic gear! (I take it that you mean separating the stators from the diaphragm.)
   
  Looking through the driver doesn't reveal anything resembling dust, but there's always the chance that it's hiding where I can't see it.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> No. I'm not ballsy enough to do that to something I can't afford to replace. If I was...well, I'd probably be like you and build my own electrostatic gear! (I take it that you mean separating the stators from the diaphragm.)
> 
> Looking through the driver doesn't reveal anything resembling dust, but there's always the chance that it's hiding where I can't see it.


 

 The dust could be something that is so small that you can barely see it.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> So is it true that the sr007-mk2.5 is going to more trebly?


 

 No, I'm lying..


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

I've heard from others that it should be some what between the both.  So I'm asking just incase someone has heard it recently.  There are many on here just just your opinion so I ask to get more than one opinion. 
  
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> No, I'm lying..


----------



## Pirx

Can I find somewhere the schematic of SRM-727II ?
  I am trying to regulate my amp modified by previously owner .But I don't want to damage anything and  would love to look at the schematic.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> I've heard from others that it should be some what between the both.  So I'm asking just incase someone has heard it recently.  There are many on here just just your opinion so I ask to get more than one opinion.


 


  Tyll Hertsens at Innerfidelity has measured both the 02mk1s and the 02mk2.5s I believe. See: http://www.innerfidelity.com/headphone-data-sheet-downloads
   
  That should tell you everything you need to know.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Ya i asked him on youtube if he did the reading on the 2.5 but no answer  yet.  Im assuming hes on head-fi also though I'm not sure of his username. Ttyl perhaps?  I only see 2 readings wouldnt there be 3?  MKA, MK1, MK2.5?  Idk.  Its early here I just might be confusing myself.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Like I told you before the Z3 is the 2.5
  Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Ya i asked him on youtube if he did the reading on the 2.5 but no answer  yet.  Im assuming hes on head-fi also though I'm not sure of his username. Ttyl perhaps?  I only see 2 readings wouldnt there be 3?  MKA, MK1, MK2.5?  Idk.  Its early here I just might be confusing myself.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Ok.  I looked at the frequency charts on both and I see a more mid bass in the z3.  But Im looking from my phone from the Drs office so Im most likely missing some info.  By more trebly are you saying there is less of the bass hump?


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Ok.  I looked at the frequency charts on both and I see a more mid bass in the z3.  But Im looking from my phone from the Drs office so Im most likely missing some info.  By more trebly are you saying there is less of the bass hump?


 
  I'm pretty sure that its not a bass hump that makes a headphone bright. There are some inputs on this thread about them just search.


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

I read that one has a port and the other doesnt.


----------



## Fugue

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> You might want to do a search for "Stax 4070" for plenty of information on these closed back electrostatics.


 

 Thank you!


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Ya I didn't say anything about the bass hump having anything to do with the treble.  I couldn't see the chart well enough but I did see that the frequency isn't much different.  
  
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I'm pretty sure that its not a bass hump that makes a headphone bright. There are some inputs on this thread about them just search.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





hawaiiancerveza said:


> Ya i asked him on youtube if he did the reading on the 2.5 but no answer  yet.  Im assuming hes on head-fi also though I'm not sure of his username. Ttyl perhaps?  I only see 2 readings wouldnt there be 3?  MKA, MK1, MK2.5?  Idk.  Its early here I just might be confusing myself.


 

 http://www.head-fi.org/u/85/tyll-hertsens


----------



## Hawaiiancerveza

Thanks Currawong!  
  
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/u/85/tyll-hertsens


----------



## NamelessPFG

After a few days of listening...I don't know if it's just me, but the SR-202 + SRM-212 sounds a bit...weird coming from the modified SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB + receiver. It's like the sound is more..."sterile" or something, perhaps more "flat", but not so much in the frequency response sense. I can't quite find the word for it.
   
  Is this a trait of the SR-202 itself, or does the sound signature change significantly with a better amp?


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> After a few days of listening...I don't know if it's just me, but the SR-202 + SRM-212 sounds a bit...weird coming from the modified SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB + receiver. It's like the sound is more..."sterile" or something, perhaps more "flat", but not so much in the frequency response sense. I can't quite find the word for it.
> 
> Is this a trait of the SR-202 itself, or does the sound signature change significantly with a better amp?


 

http://hometheaterreview.com/stax-srs-2050-ii-basic-headphones/
 in this article the author mentions nothing about better amp sounding different, ie: more depth, better dynamics. sadly you'd need to a/b them with another stax owner. there must be someone here in Georgia or the southeastern US


----------



## Karhu

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> After a few days of listening...I don't know if it's just me, but the SR-202 + SRM-212 sounds a bit...weird coming from the modified SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB + receiver. It's like the sound is more..."sterile" or something, perhaps more "flat", but not so much in the frequency response sense. I can't quite find the word for it.
> 
> Is this a trait of the SR-202 itself, or does the sound signature change significantly with a better amp?


 

 I had a similar problem with SRM-313 and SR-303. Problem solved when I changed original powercords from amp and cd-player (Audio Aero Prima). UnfortunateIy I never tried to change powercord just from one machine at a time.


----------



## Amarphael

I've had the SR-202 only with SRN717 and the KGSS. They sounded faboulous from both of them. There wan't anything sterile with it to my ears. That's more like HD800 sound IME. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  
  Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Is this a trait of the SR-202 itself, or does the sound signature change significantly with a better amp?


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> After a few days of listening...I don't know if it's just me, but the SR-202 + SRM-212 sounds a bit...weird coming from the modified SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB + receiver. It's like the sound is more..."sterile" or something, perhaps more "flat", but not so much in the frequency response sense. I can't quite find the word for it.
> 
> Is this a trait of the SR-202 itself, or does the sound signature change significantly with a better amp?


 


  If by more sterile you mean less mid-centric then yes I agree.


----------



## NamelessPFG

So it might be in the mids, hmmm....
   
  *raises mids a few decibels via EQ* Maybe you're right. Even if the diaphragm's thicker, it probably wouldn't change the SR-Lambda's famous mids, something the Lambda Pro apparently took away from (recessed mids). Of course, this could all be placebo for all I know...
   
  Now I'm actually tempted to get a proper Stax amp with a Normal bias output and get a SR-Lambda with as pristine drivers as possible. (And here I thought I'd pursue the route of more modern Stax, like a Nova Signature...)


----------



## Elysian

Anyone in the US successfully buy their 009s from Pricejapan?
   
  I might want to pick up a pair in a few months.  Admittedly, I wasn't too overwhelmed with the 009s the time I heard them, but I'm probably giving my O2s to a family member, so I need something else to listen to and don't want two pairs of O2s.  Kind of a hard decision, though, since the jury seems out whether the O2 or 009 pairs better with the BHSE.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Anyone in the US successfully buy their 009s from Pricejapan?
> 
> I might want to pick up a pair in a few months.  Admittedly, I wasn't too overwhelmed with the 009s the time I heard them, but I'm probably giving my O2s to a family member, so I need something else to listen to and don't want two pairs of O2s.  Kind of a hard decision, though, since the jury seems out whether the O2 or 009 pairs better with the BHSE.


 

 I purchased mine from PriceJapan. Took about a week for them to be shipped. Went out on Friday, and they've just arrived in my state this morning.
   
  FYI: it takes about a week for any Stax orders to be stocked according to Kaneda. On the 23rd, the website will be taking a short vacation until after the new year.


----------



## Elysian

Awesome, thanks!  It sounds like about a two week wait for CONUS during normal business operations, then.
   
  Btw, did you pay the exact USD price on the Pricejapan front page, or were there any additional fees tacked on, such as Paypal or customs?


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Awesome, thanks!  It sounds like about a two week wait for CONUS during normal business operations, then.
> 
> Btw, did you pay the exact USD price on the Pricejapan front page, or were there any additional fees tacked on, such as Paypal or customs?


 

 Yeah. Shipping is lightning quick, but it takes a little longer for the product to actually be stocked. No customs fees, but DHL (now Fed-Ex) and Paypal fees added a few hundred more to the price.
   
  I paid $4,600 for the SR-009, fastest shipping, and Paypal when it was all said and done.


----------



## Ra97oR

I really wanna try if the 404Sig with 404LE earpads sounds the same or not. From my memory it does sound very similar but can't say for sure unless it is tested side by side.


----------



## NamelessPFG

*listens a bit more to the SR-202 + SRM-212*
   
  I don't know if this is just a more revealing nature or what, but everything sounds a bit "rougher" than the vintage Lambda did, like there's a bit of an aural texture there. Is this just placebo, or have the rest of you noticed anything like that?
   
  I initially thought I'd be so glad to have the big receiver off my desk...and in some ways, I am. But I'm seriously contemplating holding on to the SRD-7/SB at a minimum if I can sell off everything else to afford a SR-Lambda Normal bias in better condition...


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





ra97or said:


> I really wanna try if the 404Sig with 404LE earpads sounds the same or not. From my memory it does sound very similar but can't say for sure unless it is tested side by side.


 


  Please try and let us know - I'm really curious because one of my Sigmas gets an upgrade and I think I want new earpads too.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spekkio

This may be a little off-topic, but, is anyone living near London, Ontario or Toronto that owns a Stax amp? I have an Omega Mk1 but no amp... Leaving my amp at home in Singapore...


----------



## digger945

Chinese Speaker Maker Edifier Purchases Famous Electrostatic Headphone Maker Stax


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *digger945* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Chinese Speaker Maker Edifier Purchases Famous Electrostatic Headphone Maker Stax


 

 What a great article, with a good dose of calm and practicality in the analysis at the end.  It is, by far, the best summary and opinion piece I've read on the acquisition.
   
  Congrats Tyll!


----------



## arnaud

^^
  absolutely agreed


----------



## Tyll Hertsens

Thanks guys.


----------



## MuppetFace

The SR-009 has been on my head for most of the day. It's a very, very impressive creation. It really gets out of the way and lets the music come through almost exactly as recorded, without imbuing much in the way of its own qualities to it. Detail level and imaging are staggering, on par with any of the hyper-detail champs like the Qualia, while retaining a balanced sound that makes it imminently more listenable with a wider variety of music. Factor in the solid build quality, gorgeous aesthetic, wear-comfort... and you get my vote for all-around "best headphone in the world" right now.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The SR-009 has been on my head for most of the day. It's a very, very impressive creation. It really gets out of the way and lets the music come through almost exactly as recorded, without imbuing much in the way of its own qualities to it. Detail level and imaging are staggering, on par with any of the hyper-detail champs like the Qualia, while retaining a balanced sound that makes it imminently more listenable with a wider variety of music. Factor in the solid build quality, gorgeous aesthetic, wear-comfort... and you get my vote for all-around "best headphone in the world" right now.


 

 From a tiny company worth 1.5mil. Amazing. Audio-Technica, Sony and Sennheiser quit that market long ago, and I think no one else save for Audeze has the guts to even try to make a $3-5K headphone. A $5K Ultrasone would just be the same driver in an *EVEN MOAR SHINY* enclosure.


----------



## MuppetFace

I should add that I've been using the KGSS with these. I'll be trying them out with an SRM-717 as well some time soon.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I know for a fact that the amount is far higher than that.  Why are people relying on online translation services for simple math?


 


  According to Tyll's article the sale price was $1,546,989.82.  ($1.5 million)  Spritzer, do you have contrary info?


----------



## MuppetFace

Question.
   
  I have an SRM-717 here, and I'm noticing a faint hum with both the SR-007mk1 and SR-507. When I touch the casing of the SRM-717, the hum seems to stop. When I unplug the stats, it gets louder and persists until I discharge them with my finger.
   
  Is this a grounding issue? How might I fix this? I'm swapping out the interconnects and trying a different outlet to see if it helps.
   
  I should add I'm using a step down transformer.


----------



## MuppetFace

Well, nothing seems to be fixing the hum. Honestly it's not bothersome in terms of interfering with music. But is it harmful to my 'stats? That louder buzz when I unplug them from the amp is what has me worried in particular. So long as it's not harming them though I can live with it.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Well, nothing seems to be fixing the hum. Honestly it's not bothersome in terms of interfering with music. But is it harmful to my 'stats? That louder buzz when I unplug them from the amp is what has me worried in particular. So long as it's not harming them though I can live with it.


 
   
  Have you tried floating the ground? It sounds like a grounding issue to me, either with the transformer or the amp.


----------



## n3rdling

You're saying the hum is coming from the chassis and not through the audio signal right?  Sounds like a transformer issue, maybe not screwed in tightly.


----------



## Michgelsen

I am familiar with this issue. It is indeed a grounding issue as far as I know. What fixed it for me, was connecting a wire from the back of the 717 to a heating pipe to ground the case. There's a little binding post on the back of the amp just for this.
  
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Question.
> 
> I have an SRM-717 here, and I'm noticing a faint hum with both the SR-007mk1 and SR-507. When I touch the casing of the SRM-717, the hum seems to stop. When I unplug the stats, it gets louder and persists until I discharge them with my finger.
> 
> ...


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> I am familiar with this issue. It is indeed a grounding issue as far as I know. What fixed it for me, was connecting a wire from the back of the 717 to a heating pipe to ground the case. There's a little binding post on the back of the amp just for this.


 

 Same here with my 313 when I lived in a house without grounded electrical outlets.


----------



## MuppetFace

Thanks for your suggestions.
   
  The weird thing is, this is the first amp (Stax or otherwise) that has done this. Methinks something was damaged in shipping. I'll try the pipe suggestion.


----------



## milosz

Yes, there is a ground terminal - a screw that you can secure a wire to- on the back of Stax amps.  My guess is it's there for a reason.  I don't think they just felt, gee a ground post would look nice there. I think in some cases they found that hook ups of various sorts resulted in ground / hum issues.
   
  Try grounding to a water pipe, or to the screw that holds an outlet plate in place.  The picture shows a green wire connected to the outlet's metal box by trapping the bare copper conductor under the screw.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Yes, there is a ground terminal - a screw that you can secure a wire to- on the back of Stax amps.  My guess is it's there for a reason.  I don't think they just felt, gee a ground post would look nice there. I think in some cases they found that hook ups of various sorts resulted in ground / hum issues.
> 
> Try grounding to a water pipe, or to the screw that holds an outlet plate in place.  The picture shows a green wire connected to the outlet's metal box by trapping the bare copper conductor under the screw.


 

 Thanks, the screw suggestion is much more convenient than the water pipe, given the layout of my dwelling.
   
  And I'm really only perplexed over the hum because I own several other Stax amps that, in the exact same setup, don't hum.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> According to Tyll's article the sale price was $1,546,989.82.  ($1.5 million)  Spritzer, do you have contrary info?


 

 Let's just say that there is more to the story.  Not much else I can say about it.


----------



## TruBrew

I asked this question not too long ago, and did not get a clear answer. Well I talked to STAX, and thought I would pass this along. If anyone else has the SR-507, and finds the headband uncomfortable. I was informed that it is interchangeable with the ones from the 207, 307, and 407.


----------



## HDMan

I have some bright material, would the GES or the SRM-007/SRM323 be a better choice with the Omega2's?


----------



## Elysian

The GES is nice if you roll Mullard 12AX7 and Sylvania 6S4A tubes in, particularly if you're looking for a bit more transparency, tighter bass, and a slight bit of warmth.  I didn't like the stock tubes as much.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Let's just say that there is more to the story.  Not much else I can say about it.


 


  I see, the well-known Mafia vow of _[size=small]Omertà[/size]_ prevents you from talking.....


----------



## Michgelsen

Apart from my SRM-717, my SRM-T1 and HEV70 did it too when I had them. It's unlikely they were all broken. I agree it's a strange problem though, even more because it's not always there.
   
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Thanks, the screw suggestion is much more convenient than the water pipe, given the layout of my dwelling.
> 
> And I'm really only perplexed over the hum because I own several other Stax amps that, in the exact same setup, don't hum.


----------



## MuppetFace

Running a wire from the grounding post on the back of the amp to a screw in socket cover seems to have fixed the humming, thankfully. I'm really enjoying the O2 mk1 paired with the SRM-717. It seems a bit more musical than the KGSS. I went ahead and replaced the O2's pads, which probably helped the sound as well. I don't think I've ever encountered a headphone with more difficult to change pads as the O2, though. I'm sure it gets easier the more you do it.


----------



## Michgelsen

I'm glad it's fixed. Enjoy!


----------



## milosz

I find those pads a real challenge, too.  Hard to get just right-  you _ALMOST_ get it then it slips off the other side......it's a real test of patience.


----------



## gilency

Is the elastic in the headband of the SR 007 easily found and replaced?


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Is the elastic in the headband of the SR 007 easily found and replaced?


 

  
  Yes the stax dealers provide them as an acessory and is really easy to replace just unscrew the 2 screws on the plastic from the arch and put the new one.


----------



## MuppetFace

http://www.audiocubes2.com/brand/Stax/product/Stax_Replacement_Headband_for_SR-007_Omega_II_Earspeakers.html
   
  Replacement headband from Audiocubes 2.


----------



## HDMan

Is there any case studies with the Stax and EMF?
   
  Someone on another thread was saying Stax give of serious EMF,.


----------



## paulchiu

The amps emit high EMF, not the Stax phones
  
  Quote: 





hdman said:


> Is there any case studies with the Stax and EMF?
> 
> Someone on another thread was saying Stax give of serious EMF,.


----------



## jcx

all ES use high V == big E but audio frequency E isn't usually classified as EMI
   
  having balanced V on the external cable, the E self cancels at distances much larger than the wire seperation


----------



## milosz

Any DYNAMIC headphone will also have some electromagnetic field activity around the earcups, too. And an IEM will have that EM field INSIDE your outer ear.
   
  If you are concerned about health effects of these fields, I suggest you do what some people do and wear a tinfoil hat.  Make sure it is attached to a 12 foot long copper rod driven into the earth, and have the hat and associated ground wiring inspected by your local municipality's inspector to ensure it is up to all applicable electric and building codes.


----------



## livewire

Hmmmm, do they make an audiofool quality foil hat plated in palladium silver
  and sprinkled with fairy dust harvested from vestal virgins?
   
  If so, wont I need a silver spike driven through the heart of Count Dracula instead of the copper rod?


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





livewire said:


> If so, wont I need a silver spike driven through the heart of Count Dracula instead of the copper rod?


 


  That would be a wood spike.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> That would be a wood spike.


 

 The silver would be for werewolves.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> That would be a wood spike.


 


*Dang! *
  That isnt very conductive.
  Dont want them EMF goblins swimming around inside my head with my music.
  Ima gonna have to rethink my strategy...


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


livewire said:


> *Dang! *
> That isnt very conductive.
> Dont want them EMF goblins swimming around inside my head with my music.
> Ima gonna have to rethink my strategy...


 

 I have the Shroud of Turin wrapped around my head, and it's wired to the Spear of Destiny, which I jammed into the ground.  Wards off EMI and demons, as well as improving soundstage.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Hmmmm, do they make an audiofool quality foil hat plated in palladium silver
> and sprinkled with fairy dust harvested from vestal virgins?


 

 I hope so, I like the bit about the virgins,


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Easy fix......
   
  A silver plated wooden spike...
  Could do double duty on those blood-suckers.


----------



## jazzgene

I just got my 1st Stax setup.  A late X-mas gift from wife. 
   
https://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STXSRS007
   
  Looking forward to hearing it.  I currently use Yamamoto HA-02 and several "regular" phones by AKG, Grado, Sennheiser, etc.


----------



## bcg27

That's a nice gift!


----------



## livewire

Wow!
  She must really love you, you are in for a real treat!


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





jazzgene said:


> I just got my 1st Stax setup.  A late X-mas gift from wife.
> 
> https://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STXSRS007
> 
> Looking forward to hearing it.  I currently use Yamamoto HA-02 and several "regular" phones by AKG, Grado, Sennheiser, etc.


 


 Cool - enjoy!!!


----------



## n3rdling

Very cool   You might want to get the 727 instead of the 007t though.


----------



## jazzgene

I've heard great things about Stax and electrostatic headphones in general.  I am very much looking forward to hearing music with them.


----------



## jazzgene

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Very cool   You might want to get the 727 instead of the 007t though.


 


  Any reason why?  I prefer tubes in general.


----------



## n3rdling

The 727 has much more favorable reviews with users here when paired with the SR007 in particular.  The SR007 can sound pretty flabby/bloated in the bass with the 007t and that amp is essentially a SRM-T1 anyways (which can be had used here for about $650).  If you are able to do very basic soldering you can also modify the SRM727 to be even better.


----------



## jazzgene

Cool, I'll have to listen for myself and see. 

  
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The 727 has much more favorable reviews with users here when paired with the SR007 in particular.  The SR007 can sound pretty flabby/bloated in the bass with the 007t and that amp is essentially a SRM-T1 anyways (which can be had used here for about $650).  If you are able to do very basic soldering you can also modify the SRM727 to be even better.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The SR-009 has been on my head for most of the day. It's a very, very impressive creation. It really gets out of the way and lets the music come through almost exactly as recorded, without imbuing much in the way of its own qualities to it. Detail level and imaging are staggering, on par with any of the hyper-detail champs like the Qualia, while retaining a balanced sound that makes it imminently more listenable with a wider variety of music. Factor in the solid build quality, gorgeous aesthetic, wear-comfort... and you get my vote for all-around "best headphone in the world" right now.


 

 Yep, the SR-009 are my desert island headphone now.


----------



## livewire

I'm at the other end of the spectrum, but dang if they dont sound good!
  Listening to "Funeral For A Friend" and "Madman Across The Water".
  I'm in awe, Stax are just that good. They put a smile on my face.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





jazzgene said:


> I just got my 1st Stax setup.  A late X-mas gift from wife.
> 
> https://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STXSRS007
> 
> Looking forward to hearing it.  I currently use Yamamoto HA-02 and several "regular" phones by AKG, Grado, Sennheiser, etc.


 


  That's a very nice gift! Congrats.
   
  I've always loved the look of the MK2 with its sexy black finish.
   
  It may take a while for you to get used to the sound of electrostatic headphones in general, especially the Omega 2. When I first heard the Lambdas I was instantly blown away and fell in love at first listen. The Omega 2 is a superior headphone, but the reasons for this are a little slower to hit you I find. I think once you go back to your dynamic headphones you may realize just how impressive the O2 really can be.


----------



## jazzgene

Thanks.  I am new to Stax but not new to critical audio listening.  Looking forward to hear what the hoopla is all about with electrostatic phones.

  
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> That's a very nice gift! Congrats.
> 
> I've always loved the look of the MK2 with its sexy black finish.
> 
> It may take a while for you to get used to the sound of electrostatic headphones in general, especially the Omega 2. When I first heard the Lambdas I was instantly blown away and fell in love at first listen. The Omega 2 is a superior headphone, but the reasons for this are a little slower to hit you I find. I think once you go back to your dynamic headphones you may realize just how impressive the O2 really can be.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jazzgene said:


> Thanks.  I am new to Stax but not new to critical audio listening.  Looking forward to hear what the hoopla is all about with electrostatic phones.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





jazzgene said:


> Thanks.  I am new to Stax but not new to critical audio listening.  Looking forward to hear what the hoopla is all about with electrostatic phones.


 


  Welcome to the dreamride that only electrostatics can provide (not forgetting the dynamic AKG K-1000).  Stax is a great start.  If you have budget constraints then the older normal bias SR-Lambda and  an SRD-7 hooked up to your audio amp will amaze you and even possibly be where you stop for awhile (they're that good).


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I'm at the other end of the spectrum, but dang if they dont sound good!
> Listening to "Funeral For A Friend" and "Madman Across The Water".
> I'm in awe, Stax are just that good. They put a smile on my face.


 

 Yeah they're good, aren't they?  They really satisfy.  Their amps are mostly pretty darn good, too.   I bought an SR-Lambda Pro Signature and SRM-T1  off Audiogon and it got my electrostatic whistle whetted.  I've got an SR-007 now, and am building a DIY T2.  There's some other (dynamic, planar) phones that are pretty damn good, too, but there's something particularly nice about the Stax stuff.


----------



## MuppetFace

Stax will always have a special place in my heart. I've been tempted toward the Koss ESP 950 though for the second time (owned one and sold it a few years back). That's a pretty nice stat too. Hopefully the Mafia will turn a blind eye to such transgressions.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Well, now that I've had a taste of Stax...I can't do without it, that's for sure.
   
  Only problem is, electrostatics and thin wallets don't mix very well, and I don't exactly have any meets to attend to get first-hand impressions, nor would any store I know of stock them. (I don't seem to have much luck reselling them for some reason, either.) This modified normal-bias Lambda and the SR-202 are all I have to go by for the moment...I can only imagine how much better the more expensive stuff sounds.


----------



## ri_toast

i just got a stax sr5, all i wanted to do was hear the granddaddies of the modern stax line. these are almost as comfortable as the lambda. mid range is not as forward but nicely balanced. really enjoying "the ride" since the "end point" always seems to be moving.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> i just got a stax sr5, all i wanted to do was hear the granddaddies of the modern stax line. these are almost as comfortable as the lambda. mid range is not as forward but nicely balanced. really enjoying "the ride" since the "end point" always seems to be moving.


 


  Those vintage Stax can be quite eye-opening, some like the SR-Lambda normal bias beat out some of the current generation.  The SR-5 are a nice phone and even better are
  the classic black SR-5 Gold Edition - keepers for sure.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





charliex said:


> Those vintage Stax can be quite eye-opening, some like the SR-Lambda normal bias beat out some of the current generation.  The SR-5 are a nice phone and even better are
> the classic black SR-5 Gold Edition - keepers for sure.


 


  I'm giving my son a spare SR-Lambda that I just pickled up, for his birthday next weekend.  I can't part with my own set.  And I agree, my SR-5 Gold Edition are fantastic as well, dare I say as good or better than my old re-cabled Grado RS-1.  Either of these could be someone's only headphone, and they can reveal just how good your DAC and amp are as well.


----------



## DeadBeats

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I'm giving my son a spare SR-Lambda that I just pickled up, for his birthday next weekend.  I can't part with my own set.  And I agree, my SR-5 Gold Edition are fantastic as well, dare I say as good or better than my old re-cabled Grado RS-1.  Either of these could be someone's only headphone, and they can reveal just how good your DAC and amp are as well.


 

 Don't you live on the same house as your son ? If so isn't sharing something that happens there ?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Hello:
  I have done due diligence reading this thread and also using the search function. I haven't found sufficient info on my concern, which is: Is there a noticeable lack of comfort with the pleather pads, i.e., sweating, hot, or sticky? This could be enough to move me toward the leather pads, if they have significantly greater breathing quality. However, I would prefer not to go this way, unless the pleather is just awful, due to personal concerns (don't eat meat or use animal products where I can avoid doing so). Thank you, anyone who might care to comment.


----------



## anetode

For which model?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





anetode said:


> For which model?


 
   
  Two models: SR-LNS and SR-407. 
  Thanks.


----------



## svyr

jeffreyfranz said:


> Hello:
> I have done due diligence reading this thread and also using the search function. I haven't found sufficient info on my concern, which is: Is there a noticeable lack of comfort with the pleather pads, i.e., sweating, hot, or sticky? This could be enough to move me toward the leather pads, if they have significantly greater breathing quality. However, I would prefer not to go this way, unless the pleather is just awful, due to personal concerns (don't eat meat or use animal products where I can avoid doing so). Thank you, anyone who might care to comment.




depends how hot it is. The 507 pads may be more breathable then the 404 ones, but in 80+ % humidity and 30 C+ weather, it made little difference. I thought the pleather pads were softer though. 
The leather ones apparently sound better (tighter lower end).


----------



## anetode

There's no noticeable difference in levels of comfort, IMO, though I've only listened to the pleather pads for about ten minutes... in Minnesota.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





deadbeats said:


> Don't you live on the same house as your son ? If so isn't sharing something that happens there ?


 
   
   
  Yeah, we share stuff all the time.  But there's something nice about ownership.


----------



## livewire

Indeed!


----------



## EddieE

Just spotted this on electromod’s website – he’s selling the old style “foam grill” style of lambda ear pads amongst other Stax spares.
   
  I know there are some people out (including me before I discovered the EP507!) there who really favour these pads over the new cloth grille type, so thought I’d flag it up for others who might be in need.
   
http://www.electromod.co.uk/stax-spares.asp


----------



## EddieE

Since we're talking pads - IMO both comfort and SQ goes like this:
   
  Leather pads
  Old style pleather with foam grilles
  New style pleather with cloth grilles
   
  The leather pads (for me) add not just better definiton to the bass, but also improve clarity across the board. Going from old style pleather with foam (which have a very natural and organic but more muffled sound) to the leather pads was like lifting a veil off the sound. They are less padded than either pleather pad, but are still much more comfortable, seem to be better shaped to the head, and breath well.
   
  When I tried out the newer pads... well... they were just horrible. Not only was the pleather somwhat stickier and shinier in texture and less padded than the other pleather ones, they sound pretty damn nasty too. They had neither the impact and clarity of the leather ones, or the natural smooth sound of the old pleathers. Kind of like a worst of both worlds.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> Yeah, we share stuff all the time.  But there's something nice about ownership.


 

 Yeah, like Bank Accounts....


----------



## jeffreyfranz

The trigger has been pulled! After agonizing between the SR-407 and SR-507, and really wanting an O2 Mk. 1 (beyond my budget), I ordered an SR-407 from Elusive Disc. I prefer the higher-end appearance of the SR-507 (yes, cosmetics), but posters commenting on lack of comfort, frail headband assembly, and simply outrageous prices for replacement parts doomed the 507. Also, I read several posts in favor of the 407 with the 006ts (tube) amp, which I had coincidentally purchased (used, one-owner) last week. One poster even sold his 507/SRR-323 rig and was happier with the 407/006ts combo. Anyway, I have never owned a Stax set-up and thought it prudent to minimize financial risk while finding out if I really liked the Stax sound. And for the money saved with the 407 vs. the 507, I could even add an LNS to have both modern and older Stax sound. Heh-heh.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> The trigger has been pulled! After agonizing between the SR-407 and SR-507, and really wanting an O2 Mk. 1 (beyond my budget), I ordered an SR-407 from Elusive Disc. I prefer the higher-end appearance of the SR-507 (yes, cosmetics), but posters commenting on lack of comfort, frail headband assembly, and simply outrageous prices for replacement parts doomed the 507. Also, I read several posts in favor of the 407 with the 006ts (tube) amp, which I had coincidentally purchased (used, one-owner) last week. One poster even sold his 507/SRR-323 rig and was happier with the 407/006ts combo. Anyway, I have never owned a Stax set-up and thought it prudent to minimize financial risk while finding out if I really liked the Stax sound. And for the money saved with the 407 vs. the 507, I could even add an LNS to have both modern and older Stax sound. Heh-heh.


 

 Welcome to club Stax.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Thank you, Dave, glad to be here.


----------



## jazzgene

Just got my 1st Stax setup and am loving it.  Should've gone Stax long time ago.  Sounds great!  SRM-007tII and SR-007mk2


----------



## n3rdling

Nice guys


----------



## Pabro

Nice setup. You won't be disappointed with the 407.
   
  I've been thinking about getting a 507 for a long time ... The one thing that prevents me from getting it is that the treble is still a little too bright to me.
   
  Just audit the 507 and 009 at Yama Inc. I think I am now officially starting to save for the 009. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> The trigger has been pulled! After agonizing between the SR-407 and SR-507, and really wanting an O2 Mk. 1 (beyond my budget), I ordered an SR-407 from Elusive Disc. I prefer the higher-end appearance of the SR-507 (yes, cosmetics), but posters commenting on lack of comfort, frail headband assembly, and simply outrageous prices for replacement parts doomed the 507. Also, I read several posts in favor of the 407 with the 006ts (tube) amp, which I had coincidentally purchased (used, one-owner) last week. One poster even sold his 507/SRR-323 rig and was happier with the 407/006ts combo. Anyway, I have never owned a Stax set-up and thought it prudent to minimize financial risk while finding out if I really liked the Stax sound. And for the money saved with the 407 vs. the 507, I could even add an LNS to have both modern and older Stax sound. Heh-heh.


----------



## Buntudor

Hello forum
  I have recentley got hold of an SR84 package.  SR-80 pro's and the SRD-4 adapter.
  The channel imbalance is 90% left and 10% right.  Im very sure the SDR-4 is fine and the headset is at fault.
  I have opened up the cups to the earspeakers and it appears that the 2 components (on every other picture Iv seen) are missing from both cups!  Is this a mod or a design of the 'pro' version?
  The main cables go straight to the drivers with a shrink wrapped connection to the thinner wires..  No diodes, caps, resistors at all!
  Also when I opened up the offending right cup the spongy material just crumbled into dust.  The drivers still have the protective film and look perfect with no deterioration at all.
  I tested both outputs from the SRD4 with the 'good' left earspeaker (without trashing any wiring). 
  Any help would be very very helpful and appreciated greatly
  Can the imbalance be repaired?


----------



## Buntudor

Whats the best value for money stax matched pair today?
  Do you know anything about SR-80pro imbalance?  My 1st venture in electrostat -electret whatever that is.  The sound coming from one speaker is very low
  I joined 30 minutes and find your desire for sound excellent.
   
   
  Many thanks and apologies in advance until I grasp forum navigation! 
  Tyrone


----------



## charliex

It depends - how much are you willing to spend?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> The trigger has been pulled! After agonizing between the SR-407 and SR-507, and really wanting an O2 Mk. 1 (beyond my budget), I ordered an SR-407 from Elusive Disc. I prefer the higher-end appearance of the SR-507 (yes, cosmetics), but posters commenting on lack of comfort, frail headband assembly, and simply outrageous prices for replacement parts doomed the 507. Also, I read several posts in favor of the 407 with the 006ts (tube) amp, which I had coincidentally purchased (used, one-owner) last week. One poster even sold his 507/SRR-323 rig and was happier with the 407/006ts combo. Anyway, I have never owned a Stax set-up and thought it prudent to minimize financial risk while finding out if I really liked the Stax sound. And for the money saved with the 407 vs. the 507, I could even add an LNS to have both modern and older Stax sound. Heh-heh.


 


  I think you'll love the 407's.  You would also have loved the 507's.  But, with the 407's you'll have the love, and some money too!
   
  While there are sonic differences between all the various old and new Lambda models, I think they all share some important sonic qualities too- they all offer a lot of resolution, clarity, "naturalness" and finesse. So while particular models have different sonic "flavors" they ALL offer a ton of really good listening. And ALL lambdas are pretty darned comfortable, with only minor comfort differences between models.  
   
  All Lambdas  are very good headphones.  You'll get a lot of enjoyment from yours.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Thank you, Milosz, that's very encouraging. And it is true, for me, that I have a much easier time enjoying a thing and am much less susceptible to "Buyer's Remorse" when I have less invested. I will always have the opportunity to move up later, if that's what I choose to do, though by that point I would more likely look to leapfrog the 507 and go to the Omega 1/SR-007. BTW, I have enjoyed reading many of your posts; you have contributed to my learning curve.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Thank you, Milosz, that's very encouraging. And it is true, for me, that I have a much easier time enjoying a thing and am much less susceptible to "Buyer's Remorse" when I have less invested. I will always have the opportunity to move up later, if that's what I choose to do, though by that point I would more likely look to leapfrog the 507 and go to the Omega 1/SR-007. BTW, I have enjoyed reading many of your posts; you have contributed to my learning curve.


 


  I bought an SR-007 /mk ii   and while I  LIKE it, I can't say that it was worth the large difference in cost over my Lambda Pro-Signature.  Is it BETTER?  Yes. Do I LIKE IT MORE?  Well....
   
  I think on the SRM-T1  or SRM-1-/mk II that I have to drive it with, the SR-007's are not doing nearly all they could.  So I am building a DIY-T2 which is a rather large undertaking, the biggest and most complex build I've embarked on to date.  (Should be finished in March...)  Between the 'phones and the T2, we're talking SERIOUS cake.  Enough $$ to buy a good used car. (like some Subaru with 60,000 miles on it, nothing fancy, but a dependable car you could use for years...)  I'm crazy, I know, but this may be TOO MUCH even for me.  I have to see if I really like the sound THAT MUCH after finishing the amp....  
   
  And thanks for the kind words.


----------



## sachu

The lambda series fail miserably in my humble opinion.
   
  The only stax i have heard to date that i have had any respect for has been the Stax Omega2. I'd take the Koss ESP950 over any of the other stax headphones every single time.
   
  The O2MK1 when driven well surely has been the most holistic experience i have had with headphones.  If I was asked if the cost of an O2mk1 setup as secondary rig is justified..i'd say hell no.


----------



## Hennyo

Quote: 





sachu said:


> The lambda series fail miserably in my humble opinion.
> 
> The only stax i have heard to date that i have had any respect for has been the Stax Omega2. I'd take the Koss ESP950 over any of the other stax headphones every single time.
> 
> The O2MK1 when driven well surely has been the most holistic experience i have had with headphones.  If I was asked if the cost of an O2mk1 setup as secondary rig is justified..i'd say hell no.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





hennyo said:


>


 


  Just ignore the troll.


----------



## DaveBSC

The idea that an O2 Mk1 couldn't be a secondary rig is pretty much nonsense. One could put together a very competent O2 Mk1 setup with either a 323S, 717, or DIY KGSSHV for about $2500 all in, including the cost of the headphones. That's less than many top tier dynamic amps alone.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





buntudor said:


> Whats the best value for money stax matched pair today?


 

 If you already have a speaker power amp in some form (like a home theater A/V receiver), then vintage Lambda setups with transformer boxes (SRD-series) offer a lot of bang for the buck.
   
  If you don't have a power amp, then you'll need to get something with a direct-drive amp (SRM-series). Sometimes you can get SR-Lambda Pros with SRM-1/Mk2 Pro amps for $400, but that's rarely the case these days (especially after seeing one such setup sell on eBay for over $700 or $800). Most of the time, you'll have to go for an SR-202 with SRM-212 or SRM-252S to keep it in the $400-500 range, and that'll still give you a good idea of the general Lambda sound.


----------



## sachu

I should have been more descriptive..the lambda series when I owned a couple and heard two others at meets and on loan were an ear bleeding experience for me. 

The 404-le was not shabby for sure. Rest all I couldn't bear listening to for more than 5 minutes. 

Dave as for secondary rig, I mean interns of usage. I use speakers now for majority of my listening. However foe the first time (since being spoiled by the Magnepans) I feel with the o2mk1 I can enjoy later into the night without disturbing my neighbors and more importantly, feeling a sense of immersion in the music.

I just didn't have the financial ability the last few years to afford a o2 rig and now that i do own one I feel like I am not making much use of it..but I do try to use the headphone rig more these days. The detail level is much better than what my magnepans can muster and it is interesting to compare notes with the two very different experiences..

Posting with my phone so excuse the spelling errors.


----------



## arnaud

I have had similar experience to sachu in regards to the 404. I felt like the mids / upper mids sounded metallic every time I listened to them ( at high end audio store, driven by stax amps, low/mid end marantz and other denon sources or ~1kUSD DAC). That was coming from dynamics I listened to at the time such as HD650 and this is part of what kept me away from appreciating Stax for many years, not having access to past marvels.
   
  I thought the issue with the lambda series is well known by experienced stax users (am pretty sure I read several other senior members posting about some years back)? My understanding was also that more recent releases like the 507 had improved things in this regard even though the tonal balance went toward brighter (haven't spent much time at all with it myself so can't speak from experience, anyway anything may sound dark coming from the 009 now )? So many headphone models are discussed in this thread that I forget the consensus...


----------



## EddieE

Depends on tastes though right? First time I heard Stax there was a 507, 303 and an O2 in the room (not sure which - champagne housing and brown pads) and I liked both Lambdas more than the O2. I've heard O2s more times since then and still have the 507 as my end game (the 009 being an unrealistic aim although it is much better).


----------



## catscratch

The old 404 turned me off Stax for a few years as well, and all because of the metallic mids. I experimented with a bunch of dynamics and what I liked most was at the time was balanced HD650. But that was before all the orthos came out.

The O2 Mk1 is a different story, and so is the Sr-X Mk3 Pro. In fact most Stax phones don't have the midrange issue, just the 303/404, and not all of the 303/404 production run either as has been said.

The O2 has its own issues as without sufficient power it can sound dead and lifeless even if technically correct. But then you give it enough juice or put it into a very synergistic rig and it will just open up and sing. The Sr-X is a different animal entirely and it's almost like an electrostatic Grado, except I've never heard any Grado that's even half as good. It's a fantastic headphone in its own right and one that gets the mids even more right than the 007 a lot of the time.

I've had an SZ2 007 and that had the 404 midrange issue though to a lesser extent. I never heard a SZ3 007. Looking at the FR graphs of the 009, there seems to be some upper midrange emphasis compared to the 007, along the lines of the FR of the 404 and most Lambdas, and that makes me kinda worried about its tonality. But I'll wager I'll see soon enough.


----------



## EddieE

While being much, much better, I did think the 009 was more closely related to the lambda sound than the 007, although I only had 10 minutes or so to listen.


----------



## arnaud

I'd have to listen again to the 404 now that I own the 009 but I suspect the following:
  > Tonal balance of the 009 is probably closer to the 404 than the O2mk2 (especially when underdriven like my amp)
  > More neutral / brighter tonal does not have to be associated with piercing highs / metallic sound and I don't think you'll find the same issue with the 009 (although you still may have issues with it like others have posted)
   
  AFAIR, the 404 metallic sound can be traced back to poorly damped resonance(s) in the mid/upper mids region and this is not the case with the 009...


----------



## Antistase

On a different topic... by any chance... is there anybody in the lot with a MakerBot printer willing to print a few stax sockets to sell? I'm getting mad trying to source them.
  Maybe the HPDE is a suitable material as dielectric...


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





antistase said:


> On a different topic... by any chance... is there anybody in the lot with a MakerBot printer willing to print a few stax sockets to sell? I'm getting mad trying to source them.
> Maybe the HPDE is a suitable material as dielectric...


 

 I can't help with bulk sourcing like that, but I do happen to have one Amphenol Stax socket. 6-pin, so it'll fit anything. Not the best looking of Stax sockets compared to those white ones I've seen, but it works.
   
  I was thinking of keeping it for an ExStatA build down the road, but now I don't see that happening for a while. Maybe someone else can make better use of it.


----------



## Antistase

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I can't help with bulk sourcing like that, but I do happen to have one Amphenol Stax socket. 6-pin, so it'll fit anything. Not the best looking of Stax sockets compared to those white ones I've seen, but it works.
> 
> I was thinking of keeping it for an ExStatA build down the road, but now I don't see that happening for a while. Maybe someone else can make better use of it.


 

 Thanks Nameless. I sent you a PM.
   
  Actually SLS of Nylon seems to be suitable for the purpose:
  http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Futwired.utexas.edu%2Flff%2Fsymposium%2FproceedingsArchive%2Fpubs%2FManuscripts%2F2008%2F2008-08-Thompson.pdf&ei=gFkGT7h5hunxA7aQyPIO&usg=AFQjCNEJXB2SdIitKMKWCZlenfTF5B58Sw
   
  Add pins to it and it looks cheap. Not as good as teflon thou.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





sachu said:


> I should have been more descriptive..the lambda series when I owned a couple and heard two others at meets and on loan were an ear bleeding experience for me.
> The 404-le was not shabby for sure. Rest all I couldn't bear listening to for more than 5 minutes.


 

 Well, if my experience comparing a modified SR-Lambda and SR-202 is any indication, it's that the modern ones have a different sound, especially regarding the mids...and not necessarily for the better.
   
  I'm wondering if you've ever tried the original Normal bias SR-Lambda among those Lambda variants, and whether or not you agree with Faust3d's impressions of the Koss ESP/950 being "SR-Lambda on steroids" (at least when driven by a Stax SRM-1/Mk2 Pro instead of the usual Koss E/90).


----------



## K3cT

Quote:


sachu said:


> I should have been more descriptive..the lambda series when I owned a couple and heard two others at meets and on loan were an ear bleeding experience for me.
> The 404-le was not shabby for sure. Rest all I couldn't bear listening to for more than 5 minutes.
> Dave as for secondary rig, I mean interns of usage. I use speakers now for majority of my listening. However foe the first time (since being spoiled by the Magnepans) I feel with the o2mk1 I can enjoy later into the night without disturbing my neighbors and more importantly, feeling a sense of immersion in the music.
> I just didn't have the financial ability the last few years to afford a o2 rig and now that i do own one I feel like I am not making much use of it..but I do try to use the headphone rig more these days. The detail level is much better than what my magnepans can muster and it is interesting to compare notes with the two very different experiences..
> Posting with my phone so excuse the spelling errors.


 


  It's still a mystery how come those 303 and 404 (both Signature and LE editions) have such a horrid upper midrange glare. At one point of time, I was debating whether to get a 404LE someone is selling locally or the Audez'e LCD2 but ended up with the latter because it's easier to listen to and its presentation is closer to the O2 MK1 which I respect a lot. 
   
  Interestingly, the 202 and SR-Lambda (both versions) don't seem to have that glare. I think the 202 has that a bit but not to the extent of being unlistenable. 
   
  I do have a question for our resident Stax experts here. Do you guys think that a 3-channel β22 driving a transformer will do a comparable job with say, SRM-717 or SRM-727 for the SR-009?


----------



## MuppetFace

The SR-404 and SR-303 are certainly not some of the better Lambdas, but I still find them to sound better than a lot of comparably priced dynamic headphones.
   
  The SR-404LE / Airbow SC1 are definitely big improvements. The SR-507 an even bigger improvement still. For my own personal tastes, I'd take an SR-507 over just about any other pair of $1000 headphones currently on the market.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I'd have to listen again to the 404 now that I own the 009 but I suspect the following:
> > Tonal balance of the 009 is probably closer to the 404 than the O2mk2 (especially when underdriven like my amp)
> > More neutral / brighter tonal does not have to be associated with piercing highs / metallic sound and I don't think you'll find the same issue with the 009 (although you still may have issues with it like others have posted)


 

 I found this to be true. I'm very sensitive to bright headphones but with the 507 which is a very forward sound didn't bother me, in fact I loved them, they didn't have the piercing highs and sibilance that bothers me.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The SR-404 and SR-303 are certainly not some of the better Lambdas, but I still find them to sound better than a lot of comparably priced dynamic headphones.
> 
> The SR-404LE / Airbow SC1 are definitely big improvements. The SR-507 an even bigger improvement still. For my own personal tastes, I'd take an SR-507 over just about any other pair of $1000 headphones currently on the market.


 

 I've not heard the LE but you can get the general 507 "tone" on another Lambda by applying the leather pads. My 303s with leather pads certainly aren't as good as 507s, but that general 507 timbre is in the pads. It's an easy upgrade for any Lambda owner.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> I've not heard the LE but you can get the general 507 "tone" on another Lambda by applying the leather pads. My 303s with leather pads certainly aren't as good as 507s, but that general 507 timbre is in the pads. It's an easy upgrade for any Lambda owner.


 

 I imagine it's an improvement in comfort as well.
   
  Do you by chance know if the 307 / 407 pads are the same as the 303 / 404?


----------



## EddieE

Muppet Face -
   
  As far as I know there are two generations of pleather pads for the 303/404 and from pictures it looks like the later 303/404 pads are the same ones the 307/407 use -
   

   
  - In my opinion they are quite horrible feeling and sounding compared to the older pleather pads, which had fuller padding, a less "shiny" pleather coating and the foam screen.
   
  Yes, the leather ones are much more comfortable. I actually originally ordered them because I was not getting on with the comfort of my older pleathers, specifically the foam screens which touched and itched my ears. Since then I have tried the newer pleathers and they are really even worse.
   
  You can still get the old style foam screen Lambda pads which is a good thing, but for me it's got to be the leather pads for the Lambdas. Better in every way for my tastes.


----------



## HDMan

Has anybody heard or own a Transistor Amp V3, there is now V4.
   
  http://www.high-amp.de/html/transistor_v4_eng.html


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

sachu said:


> The lambda series fail miserably in my humble opinion.
> 
> The only stax i have heard to date that i have had any respect for has been the Stax Omega2. I'd take the Koss ESP950 over any of the other stax headphones every single time.
> 
> The O2MK1 when driven well surely has been the most holistic experience i have had with headphones.  If I was asked if the cost of an O2mk1 setup as secondary rig is justified..i'd say hell no.




O2 Mk1 are great, sure, but I think the SR-Lamba and Lambda Nova Signature put out impressive performance for the price, and easily challenge my old PC-OCC cabled ESP-950.

PS: my old SR-404LE were quite impressive as well.


----------



## MrGreen

Based on the measurement sheets (and also my own listening experience), the O2 is below the free field curve in terms of treble, and above it in terms of bass.

 Given the other headphones sachu enjoys, there's no reason why he shouldn't hate the Lambda series - despite their technically superior frequency curve.

 It's just personal taste.
   
   
  Quote: 





eddiee said:


> While being much, much better, I did think the 009 was more closely related to the lambda sound than the 007, although I only had 10 minutes or so to listen.


 

  You'll find that's because it is, at it's heart a Stax Omega revival (whilst the O2 was, IIRC a backlash of 'new stax' after the old company went bankrupt). The Omega followed Stax's general aim; a free field curve (or diffuse with the equaliser boxes)
  
   
   
  Is anyone still talking about the recent Stax sale to a chinese speaker company? Could turn out interesting, especially if it signals a return of that ESL stax made eons ago


----------



## MuppetFace

Personal taste I understand. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions.
   
  It's the manner in which people choose to express them that can give off the impression of trolling. When you say X or Y headphone "fails miserably" and that "hell no I wouldn't recommend it" in a thread filled with people who admire said headphones, well, you're obviously going for an emotional response. I'd expect no different if I were to go into a Thunderpants thread and say the same things. Add to that a sweeping generalization about the Lambda series based on a few examples, and what else are people to think?
   
  If those things were said in person with a smile and in a jovial way, then that changes it completely. In a medium where body language and tone of voice are absent however, one has to choose one's words with even more care.


----------



## MrGreen

I don't consider tact to be entirely necessary with something so subjective. You can see my arguments in the LCD-2 thread for thoughts on that


----------



## MuppetFace

I think most of us are pretty well aware of the subjectivity involved in impressions and opinions shared here. I don't think anyone was taking negative comments to be anything but subjective.
   
  Tact is another matter altogether. It has to do with intentions: do you want to come off as merely inflammatory, or do you want to have a genuine discussion?


----------



## jontti

Greatings men and women of knowledge!
   
  I just have a simple question about my setup. As my suorce I have a Audioaero Capitole, from 2001 I think (I bought it last spring). It's got a tube outputstage with volume control on the front of the player so it can be used as a pre-amp. Ive got a lambda 303 with a srm313 and I've understood that there is a switch inside of the srm313 that puts dissables the volume control on the 313. So what's better to have the cdp output at max and use the volume control on the amp or the other way around? Or is there no practical difference?
   
  Though one thing which I could hear when I experimented with the settings was that there's a clearly audible hum with the 313 at full volume. Any suggestions why and if there's a easy solution?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Is anyone still talking about the recent Stax sale to a chinese speaker company? Could turn out interesting, especially if it signals a return of that ESL stax made eons ago


 

 The conversation deteriorated and the thread was locked. A new full size ESL I don't see happening. Stax doesn't make tonearms or amps or anything like that anymore, so there's little need for them to waste time and precious engineering resources in that market which is already well served by companies like Soundlab and King Sound. Stax should stick to headphones.


----------



## di_andrei

Quick and silly question about the SR-007A, I have not had the opportunity to try them on yet and I was wondering about how comfortable they are. Do the earpads sit on top of the ear, or completely around the ear? For example in my case, I find the HD800 extremely comfortable, because they are so large - the pads do not rest on top of my ears. Most other headphones - the pads rest on the ears and it gets tiresome.


----------



## Otakusound

Around the ear. Your ears might brush the cloth inside the pads, but I believe the 007A has deeper pads than the mk1, so you should probably be good.


----------



## HDMan

Looking for an Amp to drive the Omega 2's.
   
  How does the SRM-323s compare to the BHSE or KGSSHV?
   
  Are we talking deminishing returns, or are there huge improvements?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





jontti said:


> Greatings men and women of knowledge!
> 
> I just have a simple question about my setup. As my suorce I have a Audioaero Capitole, from 2001 I think (I bought it last spring). It's got a tube outputstage with volume control on the front of the player so it can be used as a pre-amp. Ive got a lambda 303 with a srm313 and I've understood that there is a switch inside of the srm313 that puts dissables the volume control on the 313. So what's better to have the cdp output at max and use the volume control on the amp or the other way around? Or is there no practical difference?
> 
> Though one thing which I could hear when I experimented with the settings was that there's a clearly audible hum with the 313 at full volume. Any suggestions why and if there's a easy solution?


 

 That switch is only in the SRM-717/727, not the 313.  Turning the volume up to full level does pretty much the same thing as it takes all but the last bit of the resistive track out of the signal path. 
   
  So the hum is only at full volume?  I doubt it's the amp at fault so probably the source that is the culprit plus the high gain of the Stax amps.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Looking for an Amp to drive the Omega 2's.
> 
> How does the SRM-323s compare to the BHSE or KGSSHV?
> 
> Are we talking deminishing returns, or are there huge improvements?


 

 The differences between a 323S and BHSE are considerable, definitely not subtle. Whether that's worth the 5X increase in cost is up to the individual, and I guess on how good the source is. The KGSSHV is different because (as of now) there is no commercial version you can buy. If you're comfortable with DIY, it's definitely the most cost effective Stax amp, with a price little more than the 323S. Mine uses mostly TOTL components, and I'm at about $2,000 in parts.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The differences between a 323S and BHSE are considerable, definitely not subtle. Whether that's worth the 5X increase in cost is up to the individual, and I guess on how good the source is. The KGSSHV is different because (as of now) there is no commercial version you can buy. If you're comfortable with DIY, it's definitely the most cost effective Stax amp, with a price little more than the 323S. Mine uses mostly TOTL components, and I'm at about $2,000 in parts.


 

 I just found the schematics for it on another thread, I have a guy that can build them, lets see what he says about labour costs. What I really need is a parts list ASAP, because I will need to provide all the necessary parts and the case. What size case would I need for the KGSSHV PCB board? And what size case for the Power supply PCB board.
   
  Not looking for overkill priced components, just an affordable, but good build.


----------



## gilency

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/cat143_l2.php?n=1#4
   

 [size=x-small]*Codice: 1NPDA03400N*[/size]*[size=x-small]                                                    [/size]*  [size=xx-small] [/size]
 [size=x-small] [/size] 
   
 [size=x-small]*  ** *[/size]*[size=small]Euro 160,00
   [/size]*
 [size=xx-small]  + VAT 21%[/size]
  [size=xx-small] [/size]
  [size=xx-small] Availability: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



[/size]
 [size=x-small]* *[/size] *[size=x-small]Modello: Diss 3U 400 black front 10mm covers rear alu 3mm[/size]* 
 [size=x-small]*Descrizione:*[/size]
 [size=xx-small]Formato: 2 Units 
 1x Frontal Panel in aluminium 10mm oxidised black 450 mm
 1x Rear in aluminium 3mm brushed and oxidized black
 4 Lateral Heatsinks 200mm oxidised black
 2x Covers in aluminium 3mm brushed and oxidized black
 Width: 450mm internal 360mm
 Depth: 400mm Internal height: 120 mm
 Weight:: 10,2 KG[/size]
 [size=x-small]*Note:*[/size] 
 [size=xx-small]Write in the notes if you want the covers without holes 
*It is NOT possible to drill or engrave on the IRON rear panel of this series but only on the ALUMINIUM rear panel*[/size]

   
  or par-metal 16x12x4.


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





hdman said:


> I just found the schematics for it on another thread, I have a guy that can build them, lets see what he says about labour costs. What I really need is a parts list ASAP, because I will need to provide all the necessary parts and the case. What size case would I need for the KGSSHV PCB board? And what size case for the Power supply PCB board.
> 
> Not looking for overkill priced components, just an affordable, but good build.


 

 Well the answer depends on the version of the amp you are building, on board or off board heatsinks. I suggest you look on other forums, where you can find parts lists as well as answers to all of the commonly asked questions of the build.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


bcg27 said:


> Well the answer depends on the version of the amp you are building, on board or off board heatsinks. I suggest you look on other forums, where you can find parts lists as well as answers to all of the commonly asked questions of the build.


 

 Both versions can be done within a single case. Mine is the full-bore 500V version with external heatsinsks, and its all squeezed into one (admittedly large) box.


----------



## HDMan

Ok thanks.
   
  Which version do I have?


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Quote:
> 
> Both versions can be done within a single case. Mine is the full-bore 500V version with external heatsinsks, and its all squeezed into one (admittedly large) box.


 

 No disagreement here. But there are many ways to skin a cat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also there is pretty much no reason to build a 450 volt version as the 2sa1968 that require the lower voltage are essentially unobtanium. The IXYS parts are fine with 500V, regardless of onboard or offboard.
   
  However there is no way you will be able to fit both the power supply and amp boards using the on board heatsinks in a 16x12 chassis. You will need a 16x16 chassis.
   

  
  Quote: 





hdman said:


> Ok thanks.
> 
> Which version do I have?


 

 The schematic is the same regardless of the version. If this seriously is your question, I suggest you do (significantly) more reading. The real questions are which current source are you using and what type of heatsinking.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> The schematic is the same regardless of the version. If this seriously is your question, I suggest you do (significantly) more reading. The real questions are which current source are you using and what type of heatsinking.


 

 LOL, noob. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Yeh anyways, like I said, I am not going to be building it, I just want to buy all the parts and give it to someone who knows what there doing. 
   
  I thought the go was to build a seperate power supply box?
   
  Googled and googled, still need that parts list for the KGSSHV


----------



## bcg27

I don't really know what you mean by the "go."
   
  I built the onboard heatsink version in two boxes, one for the power supply and one for the amp. Others have done one box builds for the onboard heatsinks as well as one box builds for the offboard heatsinks. The only combo I have not heard of is a two box build for the offboard heatsink version. 
   
  Like I said, I suggest you do a lot more reading even if you are not the one building it. Either that or have your builder do a lot more reading and do the parts sourcing him/her self.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





hdman said:


> LOL, noob.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 If you had googled it, the BOM is right there under your nose...


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Ok thanks.
> 
> Which version do I have?


 


  Ha! Depends on which board set you have. You do have a board set, right?
  As CK said, "sinks and source". Watcha got?


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





livewire said:


> If you had googled it, the BOM is right there under your nose...


 

 Yea, I also pmed him the links to the KGSSHV thread as well as the KGSSHV board run thread from over there. It remains to be seen whether he is interested enough to read through them and find the BOM and other pertinent information.


----------



## MrGreen

Could anyone who subscribed to the thread link me?
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The conversation deteriorated and the thread was locked. A new full size ESL I don't see happening. Stax doesn't make tonearms or amps or anything like that anymore, so there's little need for them to waste time and precious engineering resources in that market which is already well served by companies like Soundlab and King Sound. Stax should stick to headphones.


----------



## jontti

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That switch is only in the SRM-717/727, not the 313.  Turning the volume up to full level does pretty much the same thing as it takes all but the last bit of the resistive track out of the signal path.
> 
> So the hum is only at full volume?  I doubt it's the amp at fault so probably the source that is the culprit plus the high gain of the Stax amps.


 


  Hi!
   
  Thanks for the reply! Yea you were right about the hum. When the cdp is off the hum isn't there when i turn the volume to full. So I'll continue to have the cdp volume at full volume and use the amps volume control instead then.


----------



## cjfrbw

It would be interesting to see if somebody would deign a stax amp around V-fets. V-fets seem to be on sale on ebay regularly. I don't think I have ever seen a V-fet headphone amp, though there are V-fet microphones that were made in the day.


----------



## HDMan

Ok so I got the old BOM, but I read a few people with updates to the BOM. Can someone supply the latest up to date BOM for the KGSSHV please?


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Ok so I got the old BOM, but I read a few people with updates to the BOM. Can someone supply the latest up to date BOM for the KGSSHV please?


 
   
  Try reading the thread on the other site first. If you still have questions, then ask them.


----------



## livewire

^^^ What he said.
   
  OK, I have given you enough of a hard time.
  Here it is, "google style". Dont forget to look at the tabs at the bottom of the spreadsheet page.
  They are links to other associated BOMs that pertain to this build.
   
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aq_FzyStz20hdEE1SDR3Q3JWZU5ydGpjZ2xleDA3M1E#gid=1


----------



## gilency

Another vote here for the SR007 Mk1. The famous fart is there, it does not bother me. I fiddled with the fit adjusting the pads and the headband.
  They are very comfortable and I am able to listen for hours without any fatigue.
  Ah but the sound ! So clear, so smooth..... I have never enjoyed music so much.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Personal taste I understand. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions.
> 
> It's the manner in which people choose to express them that can give off the impression of trolling. When you say X or Y headphone "fails miserably" and that "hell no I wouldn't recommend it" in a thread filled with people who admire said headphones, well, you're obviously going for an emotional response. I'd expect no different if I were to go into a Thunderpants thread and say the same things. Add to that a sweeping generalization about the Lambda series based on a few examples, and what else are people to think?
> 
> If those things were said in person with a smile and in a jovial way, then that changes it completely. In a medium where body language and tone of voice are absent however, one has to choose one's words with even more care.


 
  I only see you responding emotionally for reasons i know not why.  We are only talking about headphones here, you do realize that right?
   
  My posting was a frank opinion. You neglect to point out that while i posted negatively about a few of the types of headphones, i also posted that the O2s (which are from the same manufacturer) is indeed the most holistic experience i have had with headphones. 
   
  And as far as not recommending comment, for a secondary rig, that sees less than 10 hours of use in a month, the amount of money that goes into a high end rig around the O2s (let alone the 009s) is cost prohibitive and makes little sense. 
  
  And gilency, what is this fart that you speak of with the O2MK1s. I can't say i have ever heard it with my O2s. Is this a defect? Or something characteristic of the O2s?


----------



## TMoney

The stax fart happens with the older mk1s when you get a good seal around the ear and press down. The same thing happens with the 009s.
   
  It doesn't happen with the mk2s because they have a port that the mk1s and 009s do not have.
   
  I actually press down on the 009 cups on purpose to hear the fart sound and thus know that I've got a solid seal. A good seal is essential to the best bass response.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> The star fart happens with the older mk1s when you get a good seal around the ear and press down. The same thing happens with the 009s.
> 
> It doesn't happen with the mk2s because they have a port that the mk1s and 009s do not have.
> 
> I actually press down on the 009 cups on purpose to hear the fart sound and thus know that I've got a solid seal. A good seal is essential to the best bass response.


 


   
  Interesting.. thanks. 
   
  Will watch for that next time i fire up the rig.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote:  

 Very brief “highjack,” for which I apologize in advance! *TMoney*, congratulations on your new KGSSHV! I am very much looking forward to hear more from you when you have a chance to post something about it and even more if you have a chance to compare it with the KGBH (as I gather you will at some point).
   
  PS.- This is not much of a Stax thread highjack _per se_, after all, since you are listening to this amp with a pair of 009...


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Very brief “highjack,” for which I apologize in advance! *TMoney*, congratulations on your new KGSSHV! I am very much looking forward to hear more from you when you have a chance to post something about it and even more if you have a chance to compare it with the KGBH (as I gather you will at some point).
> 
> PS.- This is not much of a Stax thread highjack _per se_, after all, since you are listening to this amp with a pair of 009, aren't you?


 


  My KGSSHV->009 rig will be at the New Jersey meet later this month so be sure and check the meet impressions thread to see what people think of it.


----------



## verwandlung

.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> My KGSSHV->009 rig will be at the New Jersey meet later this month so be sure and check the meet impressions thread to see what people think of it.


 


  Great news! I'll certainly be looking for it. Thanks.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> My KGSSHV->009 rig will be at the New Jersey meet later this month so be sure and check the meet impressions thread to see what people think of it.


 


 Clean looking amp, did you build it yourself?
   
  Looking forward to some impressions of your rig, would love to hear that combo.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> Quick and silly question about the SR-007A, I have not had the opportunity to try them on yet and I was wondering about how comfortable they are. Do the earpads sit on top of the ear, or completely around the ear? For example in my case, I find the HD800 extremely comfortable, because they are so large - the pads do not rest on top of my ears. Most other headphones - the pads rest on the ears and it gets tiresome.


 

 The circum-aural earpads have a slightly smaller diameter than the HD-800's.  The HD-800's totally surround my pinnae (outer ears) and barely touch them.  The SR-007's (mk II) that I have also surround my pinnae but they touch them at some points.  I wouldn't say they "squash" my ears but they are marginally less comfy than the HD-800 earpads. The SR-007's are very light, and they don't "clamp" the head a whole lot once you get them adjusted, so they are very comfortable if not _quite_ THE most comfortable headphones. Really, SE-007's are among the very best headphones in all regards.  If they aren't exactly THE best in every category, they're right up there among the best-  in _all_ regards.


----------



## fpsoft1

I'm not a Stax owner, so i would like an opinion-advice from you. Two years ago i listened a sr-303 headphone with a SRM-006tll (tubes) amplifier. 
   
  I was very disappointed by low audio pressure level. 
   
  Actually i own a Sennheiser HD600 and its sound pressure goes very high. 
   
  My question is: is it normal that the electrostatic headphones have a so low audio-pressure level? The volume knob was about at maximum and the sound pressure was about a 4/10 of my hd600. 
   
  I listen pop, rock, house (ok, i understand it's not so well suited for Stax) and i obviously need more punch. I really fell in love with the Stax high frequencies, but the volume was too low. The person that made me listen the headphone was not very expert with headphones, so i fear he made something wrong.
   
  Do you confirm my impressions of Stax low sound pressure? If yes, i'll have to say bye to Stax, if no i'll give another try. Thank you.


----------



## cjfrbw

Maybe a Pro bias phone in a normal bias socket?  Stax get plenty loud, must be an upstream problem.
  
  Quote: 





fpsoft1 said:


> I'm not a Stax owner, so i would like an opinion-advice from you. Two years ago i listened a sr-303 headphone with a SRM-006tll (tubes) amplifier.
> 
> I was very disappointed by low audio pressure level.
> 
> ...


----------



## bcg27

I typically listen to my sr007 at -30 to -35 dB with a relatively low voltage (1.4 Vrms) single ended source out of my KGSSHV.  -15 dB is close to painfully loud. Don't even want to try 0 dB, let alone with a hotter, balanced source. 
   
  Do you have any idea of what spl levels you use your hd600 at? What source and amp do you use with your hd600? What source were you using with the sr303?


----------



## n3rdling

They should be able to go loud enough to damage your hearing quite easily.


----------



## sridhar3

Where can one get a pair of replacement O2mk1 brown earpads?
   
  Are these legit?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-Earpads-SR-007-Series-Pair-BROWN-Ear-Pads-/200691832463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eba2a568f#ht_2032wt_1163


----------



## The Monkey

I've ordered from that seller and from audiocubes.  Both appeared to be the real deal.  
   
  Does anyone know if Stax is having problems with counterfeiters (at least with respect to parts)?


----------



## Amarphael

Very unlikely. Why, did you find any chinese sellers undrcutting prices?


----------



## BoogieWoogie

nvn


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


the monkey said:


> I've ordered from that seller and from audiocubes.  Both appeared to be the real deal.
> 
> Does anyone know if Stax is having problems with counterfeiters (at least with respect to parts)?


 

 Thank you sir.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Very unlikely. Why, did you find any chinese sellers undrcutting prices?


 


  Nope, haven't seen anything like that.  Just wanted to see if there were any reports.


----------



## EddieE

No, not normal at all. I have SR-303 and you could deafen your self with the least powerful of Stax amps quite easily.
  
  Quote: 





fpsoft1 said:


> I'm not a Stax owner, so i would like an opinion-advice from you. Two years ago i listened a sr-303 headphone with a SRM-006tll (tubes) amplifier.
> 
> I was very disappointed by low audio pressure level.
> 
> ...


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





eddiee said:


> No, not normal at all. I have SR-303 and you could deafen your self with the least powerful of Stax amps quite easily.


 


  Have the SR-303 as well, powered by the SRM-323II and agree with the above. You can even deafen yourself with that amp and the 007 (more difficult to drive as is well known), just in case you are interested!


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





fpsoft1 said:


> I'm not a Stax owner, so i would like an opinion-advice from you. Two years ago i listened a sr-303 headphone with a SRM-006tll (tubes) amplifier.
> 
> I was very disappointed by low audio pressure level.
> 
> ...


 

 As everyone says, that's definitely not right if you're talking about volume. Stax specifically warns users to not raise the volume to damaging levels for good reason, especially since electrostatics tend not to distort at high volume levels.
   
  Also, much of what I listen to ends up being old pop or rock, and I quite like it through my Lambda systems. In fact, I haven't found anything that really sounds horrid with Stax.
   
  However, if you're talking impact/slam when you mean "low sound pressure", then you may never adapt to electrostatics. Quoth this review:
   
  Quote: 





> First thing I have to tell you. If you are, like me, coming from a dynamic background you have to leave your preconceived notion of presentation of bass behind. The stax system does not push air into your ear canal, in fact it presents it just outside your ear giving a slightly brighter presentation, fantastic detail and attack but perhaps not any bass slam.
> 
> Now when I say bass slam I mean oomph not bass itself. This is what I mean - you have to re-educate yourself on how bass is really presented to the listener as more of an extension into the mix to give depth where needed or to emphasize a moment. This means you understand bass is there - in shed loads if I may say so, but not in a slam slam manner, but more in a deep cavernous manner designed to broaden what already is a massive sound stage.


 
   
  In other words, there's less tactile impact for a given level of volume across the spectrum. Some people simply don't like this. I personally don't mind; actually, I kind of like the ambient, atmospheric effect it brings.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Welp, the new SR-507s have been here for a couple days, connected to the SRM-006ts I recently purchased. I am running balanced directly out of my Muse Model 10 CD/DVD-A player. It would be premature to offer to much in the way of analysis after such a short time. I will just give a brief first impression.

 *Brightness*: Have I lost _that_ much of my high-frequency hearing? I am pretty old, but I still feel like I hear most of what is in my music, and these phones do not seem at all bright, just wonderfully open. In fact, I would like even more high-frequency "air" in the sound.
 *Comfort*: No problems here. The phones are relatively light, the clamping force just right and the pads very comfortable.
 *Impact*: Not up to better dynamic phones, so far. Is there a break-in period with Stax phones?
 *Overall*: These are the first headphones that excite me the way my Quads do in my main system (and the sound is similar). To my ears and tastes, this phone is qualitatively different, and superior to, the dynamic phones I have heard and owned so far (HD-580, 600, 650, AKG-K701, Grado SR-80, Fostex T40RP II [planar]) and the few vintage electrostats I own (Koss ESP-6 and Stax SR-30 electret). Can you tell I'm happy? It took me a long time to get here. I feel a bridge has been crossed. I know long-term listening will expose imperfections, but that is true of anything. Thanks to all of you who have answered my questions and been supportive. 
   
  BTW, the SR-507s came well packed and in fine condition (purchased new from Elusive Disc), but the actual Stax box was not sealed in shrink-wrap or plastic the way most new products are. In my new-buyer anxiety, I questioned their general manager about this, fearing I had been shipped an open-box or re-pack unit. He said he checked their inventory and the other SR-507 boxes were the same. Any feedback on this?
   
  Thanks,
  Jeffrey


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Welp, the new SR-507s have been here for a couple days, connected to the SRM-006ts I recently purchased. I am running balanced directly out of my Muse Model 10 CD/DVD-A player. It would be premature to offer to much in the way of analysis after such a short time. I will just give a brief first impression.
> 
> *Brightness*: Have I lost _that_ much of my high-frequency hearing? I am pretty old, but I still feel like I hear most of what is in my music, and these phones do not seem at all bright, just wonderfully open. In fact, I would like even more high-frequency "air" in the sound.


 

 Mellowness up top is probably the SRM-006Ts. The Stax tube amps don't have a reputation for being all that neutral.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Welp, the new SR-507s have been here for a couple days, connected to the SRM-006ts I recently purchased. I am running balanced directly out of my Muse Model 10 CD/DVD-A player. It would be premature to offer to much in the way of analysis after such a short time. I will just give a brief first impression.
> 
> *Brightness*: Have I lost _that_ much of my high-frequency hearing? I am pretty old, but I still feel like I hear most of what is in my music, and these phones do not seem at all bright, just wonderfully open. In fact, I would like even more high-frequency "air" in the sound.
> *Comfort*: No problems here. The phones are relatively light, the clamping force just right and the pads very comfortable.
> ...


 

 Electrostatic headphones don't have the bass "impact" of better dynamic and planar phones, you just can't get that much excursion from an electrostatic diaphragm.  The bass the Lambdas _*DO*_ produce goes low, is tight and tuneful, good texture, and is what I would call "pretty darn satisfying"  but not quite to the "oh wow" <grin>  level of the best dynamic and planar 'phones.  The SR-007 and SR-009 do a little better in this regard than the Lambda, but are still not as "  slammin'  "  as, say, HD-800's or LCD-2's.  
   
  Koss ESP-950 has more of this bass impact than the Lambda, but not _quite_ as much as the SR-007 / SR-009.  The Koss sound nice, but they just don't seem as resolving in the midrange as the Lambdas or SR-00x's.  I don't know, the midrange / low treble in the Koss doesn't sound BAD, in fact the Koss ESP-950 is clearly "electrostatic sounding" and chock full of goodness, and while the Koss mids are full and clear, they just don't have quite the inner detail of mids / low treble on any of the Stax. That said, it should be noted that the diaphragm on the ESP-950 is the largest of any electrostatic headphone, and this rewards the listener with pretty good bass impact, especially considering the price.  The Koss is just different sounding from the Stax house sound.  It's nice to know that there is more than just Stax out there making a very high quality electrostatic headphone, vive la différence and all that.


----------



## MrGreen

What you're hearing is a closer approximation of the truth, and not your "hearing loss". Hearing loss is, by definition inaudible, and those with large amounts of damage actually end up more sensitive to high frequencies (in the sense that it causes discomfort), than those with, if you'll pardon the pun, "sound hearing".

 The stax lambda series is based on the Free Field Curve (and it gets damn close), which means that, assuming your Quads are in a condition where they are producing a flat response (more or less), you'll hear the same thing from your stax, if the quads are directly infront of you.

 If you're looking for more "air", stax has a number of systems that may interest you, or you can build your own. Particularly, they have Equalisers that shift towards what is known as a "diffuse field curve". I can produce the diffuse field curves if you'd like, and, if you have the curve for your headphones handy, should be able to EQ appropriately to get the diffuse field sound.

 You should also keep in mind that there is very little high frequency information in music (most of it is cymbals and overtones).
  
  Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *Brightness*: Have I lost _that_ much of my high-frequency hearing? I am pretty old, but I still feel like I hear most of what is in my music, and these phones do not seem at all bright, just wonderfully open. In fact, I would like even more high-frequency "air" in the sound.


 
   
   

  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Electrostatic headphones don't have the bass "impact" of better dynamic and planar phones, you just can't get that much excursion from an electrostatic diaphragm.  The bass the Lambdas _*DO*_ produce goes low, is tight and tuneful, good texture, and is what I would call "pretty darn satisfying"  but not quite to the "oh wow" <grin>  level of the best dynamic and planar 'phones.  The SR-007 and SR-009 do a little better in this regard than the Lambda, but are still not as "  slammin'  "  as, say, HD-800's or LCD-2's.


 

 While I agree with your sentiments about the LCD-2s (even though I hate them overall), I think the difference between a lambda model and the HD800 is simply due to the bass-bump in the HD800. 

 Based on my understanding, I think an Omega/009 is a good suggestion, but the 007 is not - and that includes my experience with it.

 As for the Koss stats, it is my understanding that they have a number of bias voltage issues outside of the company amp (which is apparently not too crash hot), and are prone to arcing (followed by squealing self-noise) under stax biases.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





milosz said:


> The SR-007 and SR-009 do a little better in this regard than the Lambda, but are still not as "  slammin'  "  as, say, HD-800's or LCD-2's.


 
   
  Whoa! Stop right there!
   
  Wait till you plug in a pair of 009s in to that T2 you are working on. You'll be shocked by the bass impact, quality, and quantity they have on the higher powered DIY amps.


----------



## bcg27

Quote:


tmoney said:


> Whoa! Stop right there!
> 
> Wait till you plug in a pair of 009s in to that T2 you are working on. You'll be shocked by the bass impact, quality, and quantity they have on the higher powered DIY amps.


 

 While the bass on the sr007 did improve on the KGSSHV compared to my B22 --> srd7 mk2, it still doesn't quite get to the level of the lcd2, which IMO has the best bass of any headphone I have ever listened to. It may improve further with the DIY T2, but I can't speak to that (yet...)


----------



## TMoney

I don't think any stat is going to get to LCD-2/3 levels as far as pure slam, but then again you could say that about every other headphone (dynamic, ortho, or stat) out there right now.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Yes, Mr. Green, I'd like that. I do have a print-out of the Stax Diffuse Field EQ from Wiki, but I wouldn't know how to try it out in practice. But thanks for the info.
  
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> The stax lambda series is based on the Free Field Curve (and it gets damn close), which means that, assuming your Quads are in a condition where they are producing a flat response (more or less), you'll hear the same thing from your stax, if the quads are directly infront of you.
> 
> If you're looking for more "air", stax has a number of systems that may interest you, or you can build your own. Particularly, they have Equalisers that shift towards what is known as a "diffuse field curve". I can produce the diffuse field curves if you'd like, and, if you have the curve for your headphones handy, should be able to EQ appropriately to get the diffuse field sound.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

BTW, what is the collective wisdom among Stax users on _break-in_. Any? None needed? It's a myth? It takes forever? Any input would be welcome.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> I don't think any stat is going to get to LCD-2/3 levels as far as pure slam, but then again you could say that about every other headphone (dynamic, ortho, or stat) out there right now.


 


  I don't know. Having heard the LCD-3 in my rig and owning the LCD-2 for close to a year and half, the Stax O2 in my rig sounds pretty darn good with nearly the same amount of bass slam (with much better definition and a tad more layering) to spread a smile on my face, a certified orthohead..well used to be one at least for 5 years..damn O2s have turned me now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Granted, none will  ever match speakers..but that's not a fair comparison.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





sachu said:


> I don't know. Having heard the LCD-3 in my rig and owning the LCD-2 for close to a year and half, the Stax O2 in my rig sounds pretty darn good with nearly the same amount of bass slam (with much better definition and a tad more layering) to spread a smile on my face, a certified orthohead..well used to be one at least for 5 years..damn O2s have turned me now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Then you haven't heard your Stax with the A8 Realiser, they then become speakers, trust me, it works.


----------



## sachu

hdman said:


> Then you haven't heard your Stax with the A8 Realiser, they then become speakers, trust me, it works.




No it won't. Headphones can't do bone conducting bass throughout your body like speakers do. So it will always be lacking in that sense. The headphones do usurp my speakers in other areas however.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





sachu said:


> No it won't. Headphones can't do bone conducting bass throughout your body like speakers do. So it will always be lacking in that sense. The headphones do usurp my speakers in other areas however.


 

 Well Yes and No , I was caught off guard and couldn't tell the speakers were off and the sound was coming from the headphones so..


----------



## sachu

Hmmm I will check it out for sure then. It would be a better investment than an sr009 by the look of things.

Hope to be at the nor call meet so will try stopping by the dealer in mountain view.
don't think i know anyone who owns a realized here in the NW.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





sachu said:


> No it won't. Headphones can't do bone conducting bass throughout your body like speakers do. So it will always be lacking in that sense. The headphones do usurp my speakers in other areas however.


 

 Thats what tactile transducers are for, the Realiser has tactile outputs, so when you hear bass you also feel it in your chair. The only thing it can't do, is compress the air, like a really huge sub can in a small room. Although you could hook up a real sub while using headphones to feel everything.
   
  No headphones can do what the Realiser does, it is amazing and really something to hear for yourself.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





> [size=small]*iPods and other personal players*
> 
> While it would be impractical to carry a Realiser around, the output of the Realiser can be recorded into a device such as an iPod. For the optimum effect, the listener can make a one-time measurement through the ear buds to correct for the bud/ear interaction and to improve the earbud response. Then the mobile listener can enjoy the full dimensionality, and much of the quality, of a good surround speaker system while mobile. Since there is no picture and the listener is constantly changing direction, head tracking is unnecessary.[/size]


 
  Have you tried this ?


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> BTW, what is the collective wisdom among Stax users on _break-in_. Any? None needed? It's a myth? It takes forever? Any input would be welcome.


 


  Well, there's at least one measured instance where the SR-009 driver improved following break-in:
   
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR009SZ91278.pdf
  vs.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR009SZ91278afterburnin.pdf
   
  The warble near the bass-dip resonance freq. is smoothed out and the non-linear distortion is lowered. It could be that the diaphragm film becomes more compliant after some breaking in. Even then though the difference shouldn't really be audible.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Thanks, Anetode, appreciate the response and the info.


----------



## milosz

Haven't had any squealing with my ESP-950's on Stax SRM-T1
   
  They don't _all_ squeal / arc.   I don't think there's any possibility that the squealing comes from using the ESP-950 with a Stax bias. Stax bias is 580 volts; Koss bias is 600 volts. The Stax bias is LOWER than the ESP-950 amp's bias, so if anything it would tend to arc / squeal LESS on Stax amps.


----------



## realmassy

Hi guys, I've just upgraded my 323S to the 600LTD (one of the last here in UK)
  Plugged, switched on, waited 50 secs, pufff, the amps turned it off, fuse blown. Now, is it me very unlucky or the Stax quality control is poor?
  First a ground issue with the 2050, then an imbalance with the 507, now an issue with the 600LTD.
   
  Amp will be collected by the dealer on Monday.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

*Realmassey*, so sorry to hear of your misfortune. There are more experienced Stax users in this thread (by far) than me, but I just bought an SR-507 and SRM-006ts that are both working perfectly. The phones sound glorious, and I measured them spot-on identical readings on the Radio Shack dB meter. (I even used the fast-attack mode so as not to obscure differences with the "slow" modes averaging.) So, unless there is something about the main grid in your area that is unfriendly to Stax (exceedingly unlikely, I would think), it would appear to be just extremely bad luck. Don't give up. I am a Stax noobie, and I am thrilled with the sound. Good luck.


----------



## catscratch

I've had a fuse blow out in a 717 when I switched the fuses/jumpers to 110v. Replaced it and it's been fine since then.

I don't think Stax QC is any worse than the norm; I'd say you've gotten unlucky. But you also don't have to deal with the US distribution network, so you're kinda lucky there.

Get the phones running, they're worth the trouble.


----------



## realmassy

Customer and post sale service are top notch here in UK, although prices are obviously higher than buying in Japan.
   
  Every time I had problems they've been sorted quickly, and at the end of the day I had no money loss.
  I still have my 323 (it was supposed to be trade-in), but I'm waiting for some fuses to come on Monday, as I've used one as additional test on the 600ltd...with the result I have no amp to use 
   
  @jeffreyfranz: in my experience with the 323S the 507s sound a tad bright.
  But, they sounded very "closed" in the first 2 months. In the last weeks the sound became open and brighter, and that's why I've decided to go with tubes and get the 600ltd.
   
  Some friends of mine also reported to be a nice match (and relatively cheap) for the SR-009...maybe in a remote future...


----------



## BoogieWoogie

How do you guys store the staxs, in this case the O2 on the box, you put any any Silica gel ?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

*Question on Lambda wires*: The thick cable on my SR-507 branches into a "Y" that terminates on each earspeaker. On the O2 phones, the wires connect in a perfectly straight fashion (see any O2 picture) that makes for a cable that lays neatly on the chest. On my new Lambdas, the terminations on both sides are fixed at angles, not identical in slant on both sides, making for a cable that tends to twist and not lay nicely down the sides of the head and on the chest. It is really irritating. It also appears that whomever assembled my pair had left their brain at home that day or just didn't care, because the Y-leads appear to be crossed over each other, as if they were routed to the wrong sides, compounding the tendency to twist and bunch up. _Can this be adjusted?_ If you think this is senseless obsessing over trivial concerns, try taking your Omega wires plus a couple of twist ties or clips and deliberately misaligning your cable & Y-leads. See how long it feels good that way. Can anyone offer constructive suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## ianmedium

For some reason (probable the crappy search facility here) I could not find an impressions thread for the SR009 so I thought I would post here.

I have just come back from a HiFi meet where I was fortunate to have heard these through a custom built amp, not sure what the amp is but it was tube.. I think, I saw something glowing in the bowels!

I fell in love today folks, not with a woman, been there done that, read the book.. More trouble than its worth! No, The Stax wooed me, seduced me and stole my heart! I love my current set up and am listening to it as I type and am very happy with it but when the day comes when I can have a home based system again then I know the headphones for me. I don't think I have ever heard piano reproduced as accurately as I did today with the 009's, not just accurate in HiFi terms but accurate in terms of emotion, feeling, almost a sensual experience.

They are not a phone that if you listened to them in a room of others that would shout at you and immediately impress. I feel they are far more subtle than that. This is not a mistress but rather a soul mate for life!

I had the opposite end of the spectrum along with me, my SR001MK2 and was pleasantly surprised to hear the Stax sound though them, though the 009 obviously far superior it was nice to think that I still get a little of the magic..Until I am in the position of purchasing the 009's!

I also heard the 007's, fine headphones but tonality and life was a little less compelling to these ears.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *Question on Lambda wires*: The thick cable on my SR-507 branches into a "Y" that terminates on each earspeaker. On the O2 phones, the wires connect in a perfectly straight fashion (see any O2 picture) that makes for a cable that lays neatly on the chest. On my new Lambdas, the terminations on both sides are fixed at angles, not identical in slant on both sides, making for a cable that tends to twist and not lay nicely down the sides of the head and on the chest. It is really irritating. It also appears that whomever assembled my pair had left their brain at home that day or just didn't care, because the Y-leads appear to be crossed over each other, as if they were routed to the wrong sides, compounding the tendency to twist and bunch up. _Can this be adjusted?_ If you think this is senseless obsessing over trivial concerns, try taking your Omega wires plus a couple of twist ties or clips and deliberately misaligning your cable & Y-leads. See how long it feels good that way. Can anyone offer constructive suggestions? Thanks.


 


  Is the cable itself twisted?  If so, I've had that problem on most of my Staxen for whatever reason.  Here's what I do/did: hold the headphone and let the cable fall out; figure out in which direction the cable is twisted; take the plug end of the cable and pass it through the loop created by the v-split and the headphones in the direction opposite the twist; keep passing it through like that until the cable lies flat (or flatter).  Does that make any sense?


----------



## NamelessPFG

*checks eBay for the heck of it, finds an SRS-3030 setup sold for $200 shipped* Really? Why do these deals always pop up whenever I'm NOT looking and don't have money to spend?
   
  Of course, I might still have ended up preferring the Normal bias SR-Lambda by comparison anyway...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





ianmedium said:


> For some reason (probable the crappy search facility here) I could not find an impressions thread for the SR009 so I thought I would post here.
> I have just come back from a HiFi meet where I was fortunate to have heard these through a custom built amp, not sure what the amp is but it was tube.. I think, I saw something glowing in the bowels!
> I fell in love today folks, not with a woman, been there done that, read the book.. More trouble than its worth! No, The Stax wooed me, seduced me and stole my heart! I love my current set up and am listening to it as I type and am very happy with it but when the day comes when I can have a home based system again then I know the headphones for me. I don't think I have ever heard piano reproduced as accurately as I did today with the 009's, not just accurate in HiFi terms but accurate in terms of emotion, feeling, almost a sensual experience.
> They are not a phone that if you listened to them in a room of others that would shout at you and immediately impress. I feel they are far more subtle than that. This is not a mistress but rather a soul mate for life!
> ...


 

 Yeah I can't find any "official SR-009" thread either but here's some to keep you busy
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/570050/sr-009-vs-orpheus-sr-omega-o2s
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/559581/stax-sr-007-omega-ii-vs-stax-sr-009-on-bhse-so-how-do-they-compare
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/555361/got-my-sr009
   
  And look through this thread, you'll find waterfall plots for many high-end headphones including SR-009.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/566929/headphone-csd-waterfall-plots


----------



## ianmedium

Thanks so much milosz, i really appreciate it. Some nice Sunday reading ahead!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





ianmedium said:


> Thanks so much milosz, i really appreciate it. Some nice Sunday reading ahead!


 


_Da nada_


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Thanks, Monkey. Yes, I have been trying variations on that theme, but so far I have had little success. It really makes me angry. It would take the same amount of time and effort to put the leads on the earspeakers straight-and-proper as it does to put them on crooked. Otherwise, I am loving the sound. 
  
  Quote: 





the monkey said:


> Is the cable itself twisted?  If so, I've had that problem on most of my Staxen for whatever reason.  Here's what I do/did: hold the headphone and let the cable fall out; figure out in which direction the cable is twisted; take the plug end of the cable and pass it through the loop created by the v-split and the headphones in the direction opposite the twist; keep passing it through like that until the cable lies flat (or flatter).  Does that make any sense?


----------



## bcg27

On the SR007 I had to remove the arc assembly to replace the ear pads. When I was reassembling I had 1 cup twisted so regardless of what you did with the cable afterwards there was always a twist on one side. I eventually broke down and took the things apart again to orient the cup correctly.
   
  It's possible someone did this on your headphones and didn't bother to fix things.


----------



## spritzer

With the 007 you can just rotate the cup one revolution to remove any twist in the wire.


----------



## HDMan

Anybody speak Japanese? Stax SR-007A for 106,800 yen, whats the 61,000 yen rebate for?
   
  http://kakaku.com/bb/article/set/?prd=20467011126&lid=bb_kkc_itemtop_180x60_2046_flets_set&waad=WGy1eaTi


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Thanks, fellows. I'll keep trying. As far as taking them apart, these are too new and by far the most expensive phones I've owned. I do not yet have that kind of courage. But what *bcg27* described sound very much like my situation and what may need to be done.
  
  Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> On the SR007 I had to remove the arc assembly to replace the ear pads. When I was reassembling I had 1 cup twisted so regardless of what you did with the cable afterwards there was always a twist on one side. I eventually broke down and took the things apart again to orient the cup correctly.
> 
> It's possible someone did this on your headphones and didn't bother to fix things.


 

  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> With the 007 you can just rotate the cup one revolution to remove any twist in the wire.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Anybody speak Japanese? Stax SR-007A for 106,800 yen, whats the 61,000 yen rebate for?
> 
> http://kakaku.com/bb/article/set/?prd=20467011126&lid=bb_kkc_itemtop_180x60_2046_flets_set&waad=WGy1eaTi


 

 If you sign up for FTTH broadband in Japan you get the cash back. It's all over the place now here. A place down the road is offering a free 32" TV if you sign up, for example. I totally did NOT expect to see someone offering a deal with Stax headphones though. That is hilarious.


----------



## gogators

Help, can Omega 2 earcups rotate 360 degree freely? Or just I have a broken set?


----------



## pachku

> Help, can Omega 2 earcups rotate 360 degree freely?


 
   
  Mine do.


----------



## gogators

Thank you very much. this is a weird design.
  
  Quote: 





pachku said:


> Mine do.


----------



## ianmedium

One thing that listening to the 009's has done is to get me back to listening to my SR001 MK2's through my iPad. I must say I am loving the sound, really nothing I could want for and if it were not for the fact that it is hard to listen for more than an hour without discomfort from the bizarre ear tips I could see how I could have stopped my quest at just this, Piano is wonderful with this set up!


----------



## n3rdling

I've never heard the 001/003 but it seems every person says the same thing about them: they sound fantastic but are very unconfortable.  This is a shame and I hope somebody will decide to make electrostatic IEMs that are comfortable some day.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





gogators said:


> Thank you very much. this is a weird design.


 
  There is method to the madness. The independent rotation of the earcups and the transducers allows for listening in any position relative to the vertical and the amp. Lying down, for instance, you can trail the cable directly behind you without kinking or even twisting it, all the while retaining the ability to rotate the earcups wherever you want them. Pretty cool, very comfortable, very useful.
   
  It goes without saying that you can position the headband independently as well.


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I've never heard the 001/003 but it seems every person says the same thing about them: they sound fantastic but are very unconfortable.  [...]


 

 At first it is indeed unconfortable but there are 2 types of tips attached (different size). First you select the one that suites you better (I prefer bigger ones) and then you need to try to twist the "cups" to find most comfortable position and better sound (sealing level affects bass). You'll find a way to make them fit right for you. I assume the headband use. I never found myself any good solution to use them as standard IEMs without headband.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


namelesspfg said:


> *checks eBay for the heck of it, finds an SRS-3030 setup sold for $200 shipped* Really? Why do these deals always pop up whenever I'm NOT looking and don't have money to spend?


 

 I recently found *three pairs* of Lambda Pros (one with problems) & *two* SRM-1/MK2s on ebay, all for *$600 *Buy It Now.  Like the  fool that I am I used the "ask a question" feature to find out whether I could pick up locally (he was 30 minutes away) and then by that time some lucky son of a gun picked 'em up.  Repression has not begun yet.
   
  Last year I missed out on Milosz' Lambda Pros in a similar, moronic fashion.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I've never heard the 001/003 but it seems every person says the same thing about them: they sound fantastic but are very unconfortable.  This is a shame and I hope somebody will decide to make electrostatic IEMs that are comfortable some day.


 

 I think comfort thing depends on a few things. When I was auditioning them I found the ear plugs to be like those found on bluetooth headsets - and with those when put in right they are comfortable for hours if you leave them alone in your ear, but wiggling them, or pressing them in anyway is really uncomfortable very quickly. There is also the fact that the headband is just stupid. It's fixed in position and in the position it is fixed the ear plugs were positioned most comfortablty in my ears when the headband was hanging around the back of my neck!
   
  Simple solution would be to wear them without the headband, which is removable anyway. Since I wore them fine not only non-supported by the headband but also supporting the weight of the headband dangling behind my head,_ _there would be no issue with them staying in without it.
   
  I was really impressed with them personally, great spacious soundstage, great clarity, nice, natural frequency response. All the more impressive - I listened to them immediately after the 009! To still sound good after that, considering the price difference, is quite an acheivement. I actually asked to buy a pair but the guy in the shop only sold the system rather than the 003s separately which is a shame.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


eddiee said:


> I think comfort thing depends on a few things. When I was auditioning them I found the ear plugs to be like those found on bluetooth headsets - and with those when put in right they are comfortable for hours if you leave them alone in your ear, but wiggling them, or pressing them in anyway is really uncomfortable very quickly. There is also the fact that the headband is just stupid. It's fixed in position and in the position it is fixed the ear plugs were positioned most comfortablty in my ears when the headband was hanging around the back of my neck!
> 
> Simple solution would be to wear them without the headband, which is removable anyway. Since I wore them fine not only non-supported by the headband but also supporting the weight of the headband dangling behind my head,_ _there would be no issue with them staying in without it.
> 
> I was really impressed with them personally, great spacious soundstage, great clarity, nice, natural frequency response. All the more impressive - I listened to them immediately after the 009! To still sound good after that, considering the price difference, is quite an acheivement. I actually asked to buy a pair but the guy in the shop only sold the system rather than the 003s separately which is a shame.


 

 You can get them for $215 shipped to your door on ebay.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> You can get them for $215 shipped to your door on ebay.


 

 Well I'm in the UK, but splitting hairs aside, I had the money then and by the end of the holiday it was spent elsewhere.
   
  I'll pick up a pair eventually, just have other priorities right now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> There is method to the madness. The independent rotation of the earcups and the transducers allows for listening in any position relative to the vertical and the amp. Lying down, for instance, you can trail the cable directly behind you without kinking or even twisting it, all the while retaining the ability to rotate the earcups wherever you want them. Pretty cool, very comfortable, very useful.
> 
> It goes without saying that you can position the headband independently as well.


 

 The main reason for this is to place a uniform pressure on the earpads by the arc.  Pretty cool design idea and utterly unique.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The main reason for this is to place a uniform pressure on the earpads by the arc.  Pretty cool design idea and utterly unique.


 


  I assume this system is not widespread because of its cost to implement. It sure looks expensive. Does the 009 have something similar?


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Quote:
> 
> I recently found *three pairs* of Lambda Pros (one with problems) & *two* SRM-1/MK2s on ebay, all for *$600 *Buy It Now.  Like the  fool that I am I used the "ask a question" feature to find out whether I could pick up locally (he was 30 minutes away) and then by that time some lucky son of a gun picked 'em up.  Repression has not begun yet.
> 
> Last year I missed out on Milosz' Lambda Pros in a similar, moronic fashion.


 


  Actually, it was two pairs of Lambda Pros, one normal bias, and the SRM-1/MK2 for $700.
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Stax-Headphone-System-Lambda-Pro-Non-Pro-Stax-SRM-1-MK2-Amp-/140674771604
   
  Two of the pairs are being sold here. It looks like he may have replaced the earpads and headband assemblies, but it could just be a good cleaning job.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/591136/near-mint-condition-stax-lambda-pro-and-lambda-normal-bias


----------



## gogators

Thank you guys very much for the clarification. This is indeed very unique design never seen on any other headphones, but it seems 009 has discarded this feature.
  
  Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> I assume this system is not widespread because of its cost to implement. It sure looks expensive. Does the 009 have something similar?


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





tyre said:


> Actually, it was two pairs of Lambda Pros, one normal bias, and the SRM-1/MK2 for $700.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Stax-Headphone-System-Lambda-Pro-Non-Pro-Stax-SRM-1-MK2-Amp-/140674771604
> 
> ...


 

 Ah, you're right, one amp.  But it was three HPs, read the description in your link.  One normal bias, one with issues, one pro.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> I assume this system is not widespread because of its cost to implement. It sure looks expensive. Does the 009 have something similar?


 

 The SR-009 uses basically the same system as the SR-Omega or forks which swivel.  Some neat little design ideas though such as how the wide the arc is and that the forks sit offset from the bottom of the arc.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Clarkmc2*
> 
> 
> I assume this system is not widespread because of its cost to implement. It sure looks expensive. Does the 009 have something similar?
> ...


 

 The multi-swiveling capability of the O2 initially put me off as being too fiddly, but in practice it's easy when you make use of the stitched seam in the pads: I can get the right position in a second, by feeling for the seam - in my case the seam pointing forward and slightly upwards, and the cable dropping slightly forwards so it doesn't rub on my shoulders. So easy, even in the dark. I think it was spritzer that came up with this method in the past.
   
  I still haven't tried an 009 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, but looks like it's cable exit is fixed directly downwards, so more risk of catching on the shoulders - which often means noise traveling back up. I suppose the fact that nobody has complained about this means that it can't be much of a problem in practice.


----------



## milosz

I like the 007 "rotatable" earpads, though I always have some fear that I will "roll" the pads right off the earcups while rotating them.  It's rather tricky getting the pads back on after they are removed- getting the edges of the earpad's leather stuffed into the "slot" in the earcup can be quite frustrating- just when you get it in on one side, it pops out the other. This should not be attempted by persons with rage issues or poor impulse control.....


----------



## spritzer

No issues here with the SR-009 cable entry.  The SR-Omega is the same and it's well out of the way.  It's only when people use add on connectors like the LCD's that this is an issue.


----------



## kstaken

I have what's maybe a somewhat odd question about the SR-007 and SR-009. Is the front chamber around the ear completely sealed like it is on the SR-507?
   
  I have SR-507s and I find that even though they're open back, the sealed front chamber creates more pressure on my ears than I find comfortable. I've tried venting the cups to relieve the pressure but that just makes the bass really boomy and uncontrolled. I really love the Stax sound signature so I'm wondering if either of the higher end phones would avoid this odd and annoying issue.


----------



## spritzer

Baffle seal is crucial for planars so yes, they are all sealed.  The SR-007Mk2 added a port that should in theory close off when the headphones were worn but this didn't wrok and did a number on the sound quality.


----------



## Amarphael

My KGSS has benn giving me some grief latley. I've been getting a faint hum static that's inreases slightly after some time. I measured the rail voltages, turnes out the +350V rails are gradually decreasing to ~270V after about half an hour. Can this be that the zener reference to the mosfet (IRFBC30) got hurt and decrease the voltage as the temp goes up?


----------



## spritzer

Could be the transformer too but measure the voltages at the points where the zeners meet and the AC out of the transformer.  Could be the mosfet too, if something blows in this PSU then it is the mosfet.


----------



## milosz

My preferred snack


----------



## MDR30

Quote: 





minivan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *audiod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


 


   
  Any updated link to this site?


----------



## milosz

minivan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *audiod*
> ...


 


  
 Any updated link to this site?
  
  
  
 *That web link doesn't work for me at all*


----------



## spritzer

Nope, it's been dead for a while now.


----------



## anetode

Wayback it


----------



## di_andrei

I will be spending a couple of weeks in Japan in April, and I am wondering whether it is a good opportunity to buy a SR-007. I will be spending my time in Tokyo and Osaka. I would be happy to buy used from a reputable shop. Could anyone recommend a few shops? Are the prices worth the loss of warranty?


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> I will be spending a couple of weeks in Japan in April, and I am wondering whether it is a good opportunity to buy a SR-007. I will be spending my time in Tokyo and Osaka. I would be happy to buy used from a reputable shop. Could anyone recommend a few shops? Are the prices worth the loss of warranty?I


 
   
  I think you can take the warranty even if you buy there, probably not if it is used though. People here have been buying 009 from Price Japan and I think that after filling some paper works they send you the warranty papers. Of course, if you have any problem you need to ship there.


----------



## Amarphael

So finally I got to those measurements today, as the static noise became much stornger... Nothing has blown up yet but the +350V rails are now at ~390V at startup, and the transformer +280V AC gives ~360V total, the negetaive AC is fine. What could cause this? i very hope not a problem with transformer itself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Could be the transformer too but measure the voltages at the points where the zeners meet and the AC out of the transformer.  Could be the mosfet too, if something blows in this PSU then it is the mosfet.


----------



## spritzer

Something is very wrong with the PSU if it drops out of regulation.  So you get ca. 280VAC on the winding feeding the negative part of the PSU but ca. 360VAC from the winging feeding the plus side?  Disconnect both winding and see what they give you unloaded.  Also, do not connect headphones when the PSU is like that since the bias supply is fed off the regulated VDC+ and high bias voltage can destroy the transducers.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


spritzer said:


> Disconnect both winding and see what they give you unloaded.


 
  Pardon my ignorance, I'm supossed to measure from winding to winding (at each side) correct? If so i'm getting 310VAC at both sides, disconnected all the DC rails as well. Is it normal?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Quote:
> Pardon my ignorance, I'm supossed to measure from winding to winding (at each side) correct? If so i'm getting 310VAC at both sides, disconnected all the DC rails as well. Is it normal?


 


  If this is a headamp built unit, why not send it back to Justin for servicing? Pay a fee and have it done right if you can.


----------



## spritzer

You measure from one end of the winding to the other.  So on a KGSS psu you should have two wires entering the PSU for each part of the HV supply so measure between those.  310V is a bit high but not excessively so and some amps were made with different transformers.


----------



## sillysally

I was taking readings on the female pro headphone connector of my SRM-727
  The Amp was warmed up.
   
  The R+/R- came out around 15
  The L+/L- came our about 18
  The Bias came out about 313.
   
  Are these readings about what a SRM-727 should have?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## m0gwai

Hi,
   
  I will be soon getting a pair of SR-009 with a Woo WES, I was wondering if any of the Stax aficionados could recommend a good DAC that won't break the bank, let's say 2'000USD or less.
   
  Also is there any benefits of going XLR over RCA from the DAC to the WES, i.e do I need to look for a DAC with XLR outputs or it doesn't really matter?
   
  Thanks


----------



## El_Doug

It is far better to use the balanced inputs on the WES, so that you don't have to use the phase splitter
  
  Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Hi,
> 
> I will be soon getting a pair of SR-009 with a Woo WES, I was wondering if any of the Stax aficionados could recommend a good DAC that won't break the bank, let's say 2'000USD or less.
> 
> ...


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> It is far better to use the balanced inputs on the WES, so that you don't have to use the phase splitter


 

 Great thanks, I will get a DAC with balanced outputs, the Weiss DAC2 and the Wyred4Sound DAC2 are on the top of my list for the time being but I'm open to suggestions of course.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Great thanks, I will get a DAC with balanced outputs, the Weiss DAC2 and the Wyred4Sound DAC2 are on the top of my list for the time being but I'm open to suggestions of course.


 

 The Weiss DAC2 is outdated, and the sound is average. You can do better. The W4S isn't bad, but you're paying for what seems like a very mediocre asynchronous USB implementation, considering how many have reported considerable improvements with front ends like the Audiophilleo in place of the W4S's direct USB input. I would suggest taking a look at the Calyx DAC with the new Calyx linear power supply. It should easily outperform both the Weiss and W4S, assuming you're looking for a USB DAC.
   
  You may also want to consider the Anedio D2 DAC. Similar XMOS USB receiver chip and ESS Sabre DAC with a different circuit and an internal power supply.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> I was taking readings on the female pro headphone connector of my SRM-727
> The Amp was warmed up.
> 
> The R+/R- came out around 15
> ...


 
   
  The DC balance should be closer to zero but given the voltage swing of the 727 then this is nothing and likely caused by the line voltage.  The amp also has a servo which shuts off the output if either the balance or the offset gets out of control. 
   
  The bias measurement is meaningless since the DMM is loading the circuit too much.  You need a VTVM to measure the bias this way.


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> The Weiss DAC2 is outdated, and the sound is average. You can do better. The W4S isn't bad, but you're paying for what seems like a very mediocre asynchronous USB implementation, considering how many have reported considerable improvements with front ends like the Audiophilleo in place of the W4S's direct USB input. I would suggest taking a look at the Calyx DAC with the new Calyx linear power supply. It should easily outperform both the Weiss and W4S, assuming you're looking for a USB DAC.
> 
> You may also want to consider the Anedio D2 DAC. Similar XMOS USB receiver chip and ESS Sabre DAC with a different circuit and an internal power supply.


 
  Thanks, I'm not necessarily looking for a good USB implementation, I will be using optical mostly.
   
  Cheers


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Thanks, I'm not necessarily looking for a good USB implementation, I will be using optical mostly.


 

 If you're not interested in USB, you'll get the same performance out of the regular $1,000 W4S DAC-1. I'd highly suggest using coaxial as opposed to optical, though.


----------



## m0gwai

I can't, I'm using a Smyth Realizer and it only has an optical output  any other suggestion for non-USB DAC in my budget?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I can't, I'm using a Smyth Realizer and it only has an optical output  any other suggestion for non-USB DAC in my budget?


 

 Ah, I see. You might want to also take a look at the Antelope Zodiac and the Simaudio Moon 300D.


----------



## sachu

Sonic Frontiers SFD-2 mk2 or MK3. A fair few have popped up on audiogon the last couple of months.
   
  The PS audio Perfectwave DAC seems popular here as well.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I can't, I'm using a Smyth Realizer and it only has an optical output  any other suggestion for non-USB DAC in my budget?


 


  Check out the NAD M51 and report back to us.


----------



## sachu

There is the Neko D100 as well to consider.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I can't, I'm using a Smyth Realizer and it only has an optical output  any other suggestion for non-USB DAC in my budget?


 
   
  I use a W4S DAC1 (ES9018) with upgraded caps, set my Realiser presets volume so they are at the same volume level, set my SRM-727 at the volume level that is normal for me, and then use the Realisers volume control for small adjustments. So no need for remote, saves you some money but same audio as the W4S DAC2, just that the USB support is for 24/96.
   
  btw, I am sure you know this but the Realiser also has RCA outputs, but then you can't bypass the Realiser DAC. So I guess you are using HDMI input and Toslink output on your Realiser.


----------



## LCfiner

I bought moodyrn's old Stax setup a little while ago on the forums and thought I'd chip in with some impressions. it's an SR-407 earspeaker with an older T1-S energizer. For reference, I also own an HD800, Grado RS1 and Denon D7000 (and have owned a PS1000, LCD2 and HE5-LE)
   
  I was feeding them with the RWA Isabellina DAC (unbalanced out) and listening to mostly 256 AAC iTunes plus a few FLAC demo songs.

 The Stax combo sound _very, very good_. However, to my surprise, the soundstage is not very large and doesn’t create a real “out of the head” experience as I was expecting from the electrostatics. For that sensation, absolutely nothing I’ve listened to can match the HD800. These are about on par with the D7000 for soundstage - good, but not otherworldly.

 But this less expensive setup than the HD800 provides similar amounts of detail and speed and has absolute wonderful tonality. It’s not quite as bright as the HD800 and sounds incredibly lifelike and natural. For a 600 dollar headphone (when new), it’s ahead of other headphones that I have used in that price range or above. But, of course, it also requires that pricey, specialized “energizer” to run, so it’s hard to make it a budget hifi setup.
   
  Compared to the RS1 and D7000 I have here, the Stax is more neutral in its presentation but it still has a very musical sound. I think there's a very slight bump to the lower midrange to make things sound a bit more euphoric but I wouldn't bet money on that. it's just my impression. It has a very prominent midrange similar to the RS1 but it sounds less congested and more lively. the treble is also not as pronounced as the RS1. The bass on the Stax has much less impact than on the D7000 (or even the HD800) but that only reveals itself as a negative on a few tracks (eg: the opening beats on Janelle Monae's "Sincerely, Jane"). For the most part, I prefer the less emphasized bass on the Stax to the D7000. The D7000 are my "fun" cans.
   
  I've been listening to a lot of Loreena McKennitt the last few months and her voice and all the varied percussion instruments sounds absolutely amazing on these. the sense of "being there" for the live performances is stronger with these than with ay other headphone I've used, aside from the HD800. Again, the only issue is the soundstage of these albums is very wide and deep on the HD800 but more closed in with the Stax.

 My biggest issue with the headphones right now is comfort. They press more tightly on the sides of my head, in front of my ears, than I really like and the pleather pads and lack of air circulation makes my ears feel rather warm. The HD800 is much more comfortable and that’s real important to me. but I've found the last couple days that the Stax get more comfortable if I move the headband closer to the front of my head.

 I bought these thinking they could replace my HD800. They can't do that as they don't replicate the soundstage or comfort of the HD800 (I'm not sure if any headphone can replace what I love about the HD800). But since I like these so much compared to other midrange dynamic cans I've owned, I don't think I could sell them, either. I'd be more willing to sell the D7000 and RS1 and keep the Stax around as a secondary bedroom setup (the amp is too large to keep on my desk with my computer, speakers and the Isabellina). oh, decisions, decisions. I'm definitely keeping all of them for the time being. If I cull anything from my lineup, it won't be for a while.
  
  I am definitely glad I picked these up. It seems like a real step up from similarly priced dynamic headphone/ amp combos. This little, midrange SR-407 and the 20 year old amp driving it easily ranks as second for the best music I've heard on headphones. That's quite a feat.


----------



## Headdie

I recently fetch an SRD-7 + SR-X Mk3 combo. It's too soon for a review, but let me say that it's the first time I enjoy classical music listening with headphones. I find them incredible with guitar and violins. Unfortunatly, they lack bass, so I consider them as specialized headphones.
   
  Could someone tell me how to open the cups without breaking something inside ? Or point me simply to the post/thread explaining how to do it.
   
  Thank you,


----------



## n3rdling

I've only heard the 507 briefly but I'm pretty sure the soundstage on it was smaller than most other Lambdas.  I also found it less comfortable as it kinda pressed on the tops of my ears and felt a bit itchy.  The old Lambda models have very large soundstages and are super comfortable as well (HD800 also excels in these two regards).  I think you'd probably LOVE the Sigma if you can find one.
   
  As for the SRX, somebody should try to put some gel pads on them.  I bet the bass would be much more extended/impactful.


----------



## Sim1

Quote: 





headdie said:


> Could someone tell me how to open the cups without breaking something inside ? Or point me simply to the post/thread explaining how to do it.
> 
> Thank you,


 

 Detach headband from cups, unscrew baffle (2 attachment points) and pull it off.
  If you want v. nice sound improvement (better bass response and slightly more gentle trebles) then remove yellow damping biscuits from cups and sacrifice SRE-725 to use instead of the original cable.


----------



## spritzer

To get more bass out of the SR-X series then the best trick is to seal the baffle.  This is simply done by removing the aluminum "cup" that the earpads are attached to and place a small ring of blutac underneath it.  The gap is quite small so you don't need too much of the stuff.


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Sonic Frontiers SFD-2 mk2 or MK3. A fair few have popped up on audiogon the last couple of months.
> 
> The PS audio Perfectwave DAC seems popular here as well.


 


  Thanks!
   
  After doing some reading I decided to go for the PS Audio perfectwave with the bridge, we'll see how it pairs with my Woo WES and the SR-009, can't wait!


----------



## sachu

^ Sweet!!! Been dyeing one myself to use with my electrostat rig.
Look forward to your impressions.


----------



## Amarphael

Well my transformer was custom made by SumR according to your specs: 2*0-280V/140ma, 1*36VCT/240ma, So it's rather disappointing to find it does not meet those numbers.
  After measuring the between the windings again (i measured previously each wonding against the GND terminal...) the AC out is 310V at both sides. Still, Only the +350V DC rails is screwed at 390V... So what could be the issue of that? You said the if it's the mosfet then something should be blown but i'm not seeing (or smelling) anything like that. I'd check the BJT (2SA1968) but first, could this be done effectively in circuit? second, what leads should i check, I prefer to avoid shorting it if i can.  
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You measure from one end of the winding to the other.  So on a KGSS psu you should have two wires entering the PSU for each part of the HV supply so measure between those.  310V is a bit high but not excessively so and some amps were made with different transformers.


----------



## spritzer

I've now built two KGSS amps with a transformer built to that spec (well one was a headamp unit I changed to 230V) with zero issues so that isn't the issue here.  You are also getting 310VAC out of it on both windings so it is functioning correctly.  The fault has to be in the PSU and then it is always the pass transistor that is blown.  You won't see any burn marks or anything like that on it so my recommendation would be to just replace it.  Trying to measure anything on that cramped PCB is just a disaster waiting to happen, I should know since a arc from + to - isn't pretty....


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

I recently sold off a number of my Stax headphones; including three pair of Lambda Pros and my SR007.  After hearing the SR009s, which were not impressive to me, I have decided to collect on Sigma non pros and pros.  I thinnk they are the perfect headphones.  I hope everyone is okay out there in Headfi Stax land.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





sachu said:


> There is the Neko D100 as well to consider.


 


  ^This.  I enjoyed it very much in my rig.  (Disclosure: tried it out as part of the loaner program, didn't buy.)


----------



## Headdie

Ok, I'm inside the SR-X Mk3 cups. Everything looks clean. What a beautiful technology !
   
  I'm not sure I understand you guys.
   
  Sim1 : Let's forget about the cable, you tell me to remove the damping to get it even more open...
  Spritzer : You suggest to seal it instead. And the only way I can see to seal it would be to replace the yellow damping by the blutac...
   
  Could you clear out my misunderstanding please ?
   
  Thanks guys. I'm really appreciating your help.
  
  Quote: 





sim1 said:


> Detach headband from cups, unscrew baffle (2 attachment points) and pull it off.
> If you want v. nice sound improvement (better bass response and slightly more gentle trebles) then remove yellow damping biscuits from cups and sacrifice SRE-725 to use instead of the original cable.


 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> To get more bass out of the SR-X series then the best trick is to seal the baffle.  This is simply done by removing the aluminum "cup" that the earpads are attached to and place a small ring of blutac underneath it.  The gap is quite small so you don't need too much of the stuff.


----------



## El_Doug

Who's the wise guy who keeps bidding up the SR-Gamma set on ebay?


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Who's the wise guy who keeps bidding up the SR-Gamma set on ebay?


 


  Haha, I was wondering the same thing, especially since I haven't heard the most flattering things about the sound of the Gammas. Was really hoping it would be ignored and I could snipe at the end, but at this price I think I'll just put that money toward another Lambda. (and no, this is totally not reverse psychology to stop you guys bidding on the gamma)
   
   
   
   
  But seriously stop, I want them in my collection.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> I recently sold off a number of my Stax headphones; including three pair of Lambda Pros and my SR007.  After hearing the SR009s, which were not impressive to me, I have decided to collect on Sigma non pros and pros.  I thinnk they are the perfect headphones.  I hope everyone is okay out there in Headfi Stax land.


 


  I would agree that the Sigmas series are fantastic (and funtastic) phones.


----------



## ericj

I heard an SR-009 today on a KGSSHV. 
   
  It sounded very good but we were limited in source selection - my trusty old iRiver H120 and Randall's Cowon S9 - it would be interesting to hear it with a balanced dac or a good phono preamp as the source.


----------



## Randall DZM

^^What he said.  It sounded amazing but was very analytical sounding to my ears.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Thanks!
> 
> After doing some reading I decided to go for the PS Audio perfectwave with the bridge, we'll see how it pairs with my Woo WES and the SR-009, can't wait!


 

 That's the DAC AMP Phones I have, and I think they all go very well together.  Just stay away from the Shugang 50 Year Treasure 6CA7 tubes.


----------



## milosz

Wonder what the Lambda Pro Signature / SRM-T1 on eBay will go for.  I have a pair of those, and an SRM-T1.  It's a really great combination.  I like the Lambda Signatures better than the Lambdas / Nova Signatures / newer Lambdas I've heard.


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> That's the DAC AMP Phones I have, and I think they all go very well together.  Just stay away from the Shugang 50 Year Treasure 6CA7 tubes.


 


  Ah thanks for the advice I was going to get the tube upgrades, what works best stock tubes or should I look for another upgrade?


----------



## tigermilk

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> I will be spending a couple of weeks in Japan in April, and I am wondering whether it is a good opportunity to buy a SR-007. I will be spending my time in Tokyo and Osaka. I would be happy to buy used from a reputable shop. Could anyone recommend a few shops? Are the prices worth the loss of warranty?


 


  My favorite stop for used gear in Japan (Tokyo) is Audio Union.  Their website is http://www.audiounion.jp/index.html
   
  If you want to check their used inventory, just type "stax" in the top search bar.  If you restrict your search to "中古" you will get used only.  The search always pulls up Stax and Vestax, so if you click on the name column after the search, it will sort them out.  The store location is the second to last column.  Looks like there is currently a used 007 and 007A at the Shinjuku location.  Also, if you like classical music at all, the 8th floor shop location is right next to the associated Disk Union classical outlet (and Shinjuku has other Disk Unions as well for rock, punk, jazz, etc nearby).  I'd say that Disk Union has the best used classical selection I've ever seen (Amoeba in LA comes up next, here in Houston the selection is poor).
   
  On one trip I picked up a 252 amp/003 phones at the Ochanomizu location.
   
  Some seem to like Fujiya-Avic (http://fujiya-avic.co.jp/) near the Nakano Station.  I wasn't too impressed.  Doesn't look like they have much in terms of used Stax currently (http://fujiya-avic.co.jp/u-hp.html)
   
  Don't know about Osaka.  The couple of times I've been there have been short stays with no time to look.  These days the big issue with buying in Japan is the weak dollar/euro.  But have fun.  The cherry blossoms may be in full bloom when you are there, and if so, take that in.


----------



## tigermilk

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I've never heard the 001/003 but it seems every person says the same thing about them: they sound fantastic but are very unconfortable.  This is a shame and I hope somebody will decide to make electrostatic IEMs that are comfortable some day.


 
  They are fantastic.  Have a pair along with a pair of 404s.  I use the 003s at work for 2-6 hours a day.  They can be uncomfortable at first after an hour or two, but eventually you get used to them.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





ericj said:


> I heard an SR-009 today on a KGSSHV.
> 
> It sounded very good but we were limited in source selection - my trusty old iRiver H120 and Randall's Cowon S9 - it would be interesting to hear it with a balanced dac or a good phono preamp as the source.


 

 Wow, that's got to be the biggest mis-match I've ever heard of. $5,000 headphone, $150 portable source. Yikes. Nobody had a cassette walkman to try?


----------



## sphinxvc

x2 - though maybe a good cassette being analog might be even better.


----------



## jaycalgary




----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> I recently sold off a number of my Stax headphones; including three pair of Lambda Pros and my SR007.  After hearing the SR009s, which were not impressive to me, I have decided to collect on Sigma non pros and pros.  I thinnk they are the perfect headphones.  I hope everyone is okay out there in Headfi Stax land.


 


  I'm okay with you)
  They have something really special! They can do things other headphones / earspeakers can't do!
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## ericj

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Wow, that's got to be the biggest mis-match I've ever heard of. $5,000 headphone, $150 portable source. Yikes. Nobody had a cassette walkman to try?


 


  Yes I prefer to pair my $150 source with $600 headphones.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





ericj said:


> Yes I prefer to pair my $150 source with $600 headphones.


 

 Even in that case I would recommend a better source. I have a Cowon S9 and a Hifiman HM-801, and the difference on my $300 Beyer DT1350 and Denon NC-800 is startling. My previous Audio Technica ES10 and Beyer DT880 also benefited considerably. Where I didn't notice much of a difference was with my old Sony MDR-7509 and AKG K601, or most other sub $200 headphones.


----------



## ericj

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Even in that case I would recommend a better source. I have a Cowon S9 and a Hifiman HM-801, and the difference on my $300 Beyer DT1350 and Denon NC-800 is startling. My previous Audio Technica ES10 and Beyer DT880 also benefited considerably. Where I didn't notice much of a difference was with my old Sony MDR-7509 and AKG K601, or most other sub $200 headphones.


 


  I have no opinions about the S9 but the H120 was well regarded in it's day, no? I mean, it has an actual line-out and all. 
   
  At any rate, my next project is a gamma2 dac.


----------



## sphinxvc

H120 is one of a kind, yup.  I think when you do end up listening to the 009 on a tonally-correct source, you'll then see how transparent and involving it can be.


----------



## ericj

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> H120 is one of a kind, yup.  I think when you do end up listening to the 009 on a tonally-correct source, you'll then see how transparent and involving it can be.


 


  These days even head-fi folk look at me funny when i pull out my circa-2003 DAP, even though it's in astoundingly fresh condition and now has flash based storage, a bigger battery, and rockbox flashed right to the board on it. Damn thing boots in about a second and a half flat.line in and our and digital in and out. What's not to love? I even installed a real time clock and modified it so that it will charge off USB. 
   
  I intend to figure out a battery pack for the y2 that can power it for at least a few hours, and then combine H120, y2, and sr-001mk2. Just for kicks. I don't know how much I'd actually use that rig, but it will be interesting to find out how realistic it is.


----------



## wiinippongamer

What would you guys choose between a used sr-207, SRM-252s system and a  used HD600 + schiit asgard?


----------



## Maxvla

This is the Stax thread, you can probably guess the answer.


----------



## wiinippongamer

Good point, but I've read somewhere else that the lower lambda models are not absolutely superior in every aspect to the HD600 but just better in certain aspects and worse in others


----------



## Maxvla

I've heard the SR202 (old version of SR207) and I would say it is better in most ways compared to the HD600, but not all.


----------



## tigermilk

I've got 404s, 003s, and HD580s, which would certainly compare well to the 600s. The 580s sound spectacular and I like all of them for what they deliver.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Ah thanks for the advice I was going to get the tube upgrades, what works best stock tubes or should I look for another upgrade?


 

 SED Winged C EL34
   
  [edit - well, the Shugang don't suck with SR-009 but sound a bit tubbier and less detailed, while the other tubes seems a bit tighter and faster and crisper.]


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> SED Winged C EL34
> 
> [edit - well, the Shugang don't suck with SR-009 but sound a bit tubbier and less detailed, while the other tubes seems a bit tighter and faster and crisper.]


 


  Well considering how much Woo Audio is charging for them I see no reason to go with that, seems I can find the tubes you mentioned for around 150$, something like that?
   
*http://tinyurl.com/78gw8w5*


----------



## Maxvla

Opinions on the best version of the SR007?


----------



## Elysian

Everyone is going to point you at the MK1, but I'm quite happy with how my MK2 handles everything I throw at it: classical soloists, electronica, hip-hop, metal, etc.  It took a /lot/ of system tweaking before I got my SR007A to the sound I wanted, but it was a fun journey.  The thing I like most about electrostats is how far you can take them.
   
  Most dynamics I've used only respond so much, but it's amazing how much performance you can squeeze out of a good electrostatic headphone.


----------



## Maxvla

Thanks for the comments. Any ideas where to get replacement pads for an 007?

Found some at Audiocubes for $150, is this about normal?


----------



## Elysian

A few people have pointed me towards eBay, where pads are $120 for MK1 and $155 for SR007A.  Smeggy charges $155 for O2 pads for a Thunderpants upgrade, so those prices sound consistent.  Fwiw, the SR007A is the most comfortable pair of headphones I've ever worn.  I like the SR007A fit a lot more than the SR009.


----------



## n3rdling

Contact Craig at Kuboten.  I got pads from him for under $100 before but I'm not sure if he's still able to source them from Stax.  mk1 is the preferred version of the O2 but you can always get the mk2 (not mk2.5) and mod it to sound like the mk1 while having better pads.


----------



## Maxvla

I have someone offering to sell me a MK1 but the pads are shot is why I ask. Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> I have someone offering to sell me a MK1 but the pads are shot is why I ask. Thanks for the help guys.


 

 Yeah, that happens. The MK1 is still the one to get, and for now at least pads are easy enough to replace. The self adjusting headband is replaceable too. As long as the headphone cable is still well attached, you should be good to go.


----------



## jaycalgary

You just cost me another $155 to find out if 007a pads are better than 007 pads. I looked around but just bought them from "joynetcafe on Ebay. Free shipping so sounded reasonable.


----------



## Sundance

Let us know if you need help replacing the pads. It's confounding at first.


----------



## koonhua90

I just got my Stax 507 today from a fellow head-fier. So right now I am considering selling the LCD3 and the 507 and get the 007 now. 
   
  I checked the pricejapan website, but it seems that all 007 listed there now comes with the amp as a bundle. Seyo shop, which I bought one earphone some time ago, have the 007 for 2.2k, does anyone know if there is a place which I can get it for even cheaper price?


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> You just cost me another $155 to find out if 007a pads are better than 007 pads. I looked around but just bought them from "joynetcafe on Ebay. Free shipping so sounded reasonable.


 


  I think you'll be pleased.  I much prefer the new pads.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> I think you'll be pleased.  I much prefer the new pads.


 

 For the comfort or sonically ? I will have to buy new ones but the new ones are only available in Black..


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





koonhua90 said:


> I just got my Stax 507 today from a fellow head-fier. So right now I am considering selling the LCD3 and the 507 and get the 007 now.
> 
> I checked the pricejapan website, but it seems that all 007 listed there now comes with the amp as a bundle. Seyo shop, which I bought one earphone some time ago, have the 007 for 2.2k, does anyone know if there is a place which I can get it for even cheaper price?


 


  heh, I'm going through a similar situation at the same time. Just replace LCD3 with HD800, D7000 and RS1. (And the 507 with the 407 which I got a week ago.)
   
  But it's the same result. After just a few days with the 407, I knew I _had _to try the higher end Stax, Even if it meant selling all my current headphones (which I really like) to do it.


----------



## Amarphael

Tech break: can i replace the faulty zeners in my KGSS with these which are 5W, any issues with higer output than needed? Their current regulation range is 8ma-31.6ma, is it good fro the PSU?


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





koonhua90 said:


> I checked the pricejapan website, but it seems that all 007 listed there now comes with the amp as a bundle. Seyo shop, which I bought one earphone some time ago, have the 007 for 2.2k, does anyone know if there is a place which I can get it for even cheaper price?


 

 Why don't you take a look on Audiogon? I got mine there in excellent condition for about 1800. The price range is 1750-1900 for a pair in excellent condition (9/10).


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Tech break: can i replace the faulty zeners in my KGSS with these which are 5W, any issues with higer output than needed? Their current regulation range is 8ma-31.6ma, is it good fro the PSU?


 

 Most 5W zeners wouldn't fit the board so stick with 1W units.


----------



## Amarphael

Thanks spritzer, That's good to know. i'll look elsewhere, just thought to get along someone's ride. but aside from fit will it work in there despite it's higer rating, how much current is running in this stage?


----------



## spritzer

Mouser has free international shipping on orders above 100$ so that's always a good choice.  Just add something you'd need later on like XLR/RCA plugs etc.


----------



## HDMan

Xicon 273-3K-RC is out of stock at Mouser, any alternatives for the KGSSHV?


----------



## bcg27

660-MF1/2CC3011F


----------



## HDMan

Thanks, also out of stock is the
   
  130v zener  Vishay  625-Z4KE130A-E3.
  IXTP01N100D
  ixys10m90s
   
   
  I only found some on ebay at rediculous prices.


----------



## bcg27

I would look again.


----------



## HDMan

there are 2 other places but do not ship to Australia under $100 order.


----------



## bcg27

Ah I didn't realize you were in Aus. I guess mouser won't ship the ixys parts overseas. I know future electronics is mentioned in the thread on the other site and possibly some other sources as well. I guess you haven't taken the advice given here and there to read that thread before building


----------



## HDMan

I can get them still, maybe a premium though.
   
  yes i did read it (reading it), only got 2-3 parts to source out, no big deal.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> 660-MF1/2CC3011F


 

 Mouser had already started packing that order, so i got this one free shipping rs-online, will this be ok instead. http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/0148613/


----------



## akwok

I'm trying to replace the earpads, headband, and headband arc on my pair of SR-007 MK1s, but I'm not entirely sure how to do so.  I can see two screws on each side for the headband assembly, but that's about it -- anyone have pointers as to how I should go about doing this?

 Sorry if this has been asked already, but I tried searching for "earpads" in this 1152 page long (!) thread and wasn't able to find much.  I could've sworn I once saw a diagram someone drew up illustrating this, but I also can't find it!


----------



## padam

Replacing the earpad (takes a little patience when putting the new one on)
  http://cdn.head-fi.org/1/17/1730f8bc_stax-sr007pads.jpg
   
  The headband replacement is pretty straightforward as well.


----------



## bcg27

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Mouser had already started packing that order, so i got this one free shipping rs-online, will this be ok instead. http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/0148613/


 


   No. Only rated @ 350 volts


----------



## sillysally

Where did the serial numbers start for the SR-009?
  Was it 1 or something higher, mine is 1288


----------



## spekkio

Oh my god.
   
  Even powered out of a 'lowly' SRM-252, the Omega II Mk1 is amazing. It is so fast, so detailed, so non-fatiguing and so comfortable. Color me impressed folks.


----------



## Amarphael

Color me a red from LMAO.
  jk
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Is there any bass? how the separation compared to your 323S?


----------



## spekkio

Would say the bass is there, but not in large amounts. Enough for me to consider the headphone neutral though. I don't get that much sub-bass presence compared to the 507 on 323S. Repositioned the pads to make the distance of the driver further from the ear and now the headphone is seriously pumping out some loud bass. Can't A/B with the 323S as it's in another country currently. I just heard one track that I heard countless times, and for the first time I could make out the three distinct melody lines in one part of the song. Very impressed with the separation.


----------



## sphinxvc

Can anyone speak to the sonic difference between the Lambda Pro & Lambda Pro Signature?  Or any _vintage _Lambdas they find superior and why specifically?  Would prefer thoughts on smoothness of frequency response, open-ness of the sound, neutrality.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Can anyone speak to the sonic difference between the Lambda Pro & Lambda Pro Signature?  Or any _vintage _Lambdas they find superior and why specifically?  Would prefer thoughts on smoothness of frequency response, open-ness of the sound, neutrality.


 


  Well they are made for different parties) Well they are realy close but the Lambda is a kind of tool for studio professionals who only want the "truth". the Signature is for the audio enthusiast who wants a "nice" sounding headphone. I switch around between Lambdo Pro Signature Pro and Sigma Pro depending on what kind of microphones and setting was ued to make the recording.
  When "taping" myself I always use the Lambda! (Checking what I play on my instruments)
  When listening for relaxing I use Signature or Sigma with ED1 Signature.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> No. Only rated @ 350 volts


 

 Please look at the data sheet for both, they are the same rating for "Max working voltage/350v" and "Max overload voltage/700v"
   
  Is this correct?


----------



## bcg27

Yea should be fine then. I just saw the 350 and didn't really look closely. Never heard of that brand of resistors though so I can't vouch for their quality.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> Yea should be fine then. I just saw the 350 and didn't really look closely. Never heard of that brand of resistors though so I can't vouch for their quality.


 

 No doubt it will not be as good quality, there only 6c each.


----------



## Amarphael

Sounds to good to be true but i'm glad you like the result. Almost makes me wanna go and get one of these puppies, just that it doesn't come anywhere near affordable included with the SR005S bundle. What's the transformer power specs you're using btw?

  
  Quote: 





spekkio said:


> Would say the bass is there, but not in large amounts. Enough for me to consider the headphone neutral though. I don't get that much sub-bass presence compared to the 507 on 323S. Repositioned the pads to make the distance of the driver further from the ear and now the headphone is seriously pumping out some loud bass. Can't A/B with the 323S as it's in another country currently. I just heard one track that I heard countless times, and for the first time I could make out the three distinct melody lines in one part of the song. Very impressed with the separation.


----------



## spritzer

The Koa resistors should be just fine.  You can also use Vishay CMF60 and CCF60, both are rated at 500V for a 1/2W+ resistor.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The Koa resistors should be just fine.  You can also use Vishay CMF60 and CCF60, both are rated at 500V for a 1/2W+ resistor.


 

 Can't get the Vishay from rs-online, i got this one instead, should be fine eh?
  http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/0148613/
   
   
   
  I have only one part left unaquired because of minimum requirements being to high for quantity or shipping to Australia just for low cost parts.
   
  4171G Ceramic pads.
   
  What else could I use?
  What about Silicone Rubber?
  http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP1155&keywords=insulator&form=KEYWORD
   
   
  I am building the onboard version of the KGSSHV, do I need one pad for each heatsink?


----------



## wink

HDMan,
  Sent you PM...


----------



## bcg27

HDMan a couple things. First this really is not the thread to be discussing your KGSSHV build. I doubt everyone wants to read your questions about substitute resistors and heatsink isolation. Second, most, if not all, of your questions would be answered if you read through the thread on the other site. For the third, or maybe fourth, time I suggest you read that thread before you start building and then ask questions if they haven't been answered yet.


----------



## TruBrew

I have owned some Lambdas in the past, and currently have the 009. I am curious about the Sigma. Does it provide a significantly different sound from the 009. I assume it could not compete on details, but I am curious if it is superior in any other areas. Also I know replacing the drivers with ones from the 404 is popular. Has anyone tried a different driver, say the 507?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I have owned some Lambdas in the past, and currently have the 009. I am curious about the Sigma. Does it provide a significantly different sound from the 009. I assume it could not compete on details, but I am curious if it is superior in any other areas. Also I know replacing the drivers with ones from the 404 is popular. Has anyone tried a different driver, say the 507?


 

 Significantly different than 009?  Yes!
   
  The Sigma to me sounded a little bland and rolled off at both ends, with much less micro-detail than my Lambdas.  The sound staging beats my old K1000 though, and the mids are gorgeous.  The Sigma 404 I heard at a meet in 2009 had better extension and micro-detail, enough that I could enjoy them a lot more than a stock Sigma or Sigma Pro.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> For the comfort or sonically ? I will have to buy new ones but the new ones are only available in Black..


 


  Yeah that's why the SR-007BL became desirable when word got out that MK2 pads were black only and remaining brown MK1 pads are new old stock.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Can't get the Vishay from rs-online, i got this one instead, should be fine eh?
> http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/0148613/


 
   
  For the record, I wouldn't use that resistor.  Generic metal film and the 0.6W rating is highly optimistic...


----------



## jaycalgary

Speaking of resistors. In the KGSSHV when I look at some of the build pics some are using a type of red resistor. Could someone tell me what brand/kind they are? Thanks


----------



## Lil' Knight

https://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_prp_half_watt.html


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I have owned some Lambdas in the past, and currently have the 009. I am curious about the Sigma. Does it provide a significantly different sound from the 009. I assume it could not compete on details, but I am curious if it is superior in any other areas. Also I know replacing the drivers with ones from the 404 is popular. Has anyone tried a different driver, say the 507?


 


  There is a nice thread were the different Sigmas are describes really good!
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/464873/stax-sigmas-compared-low-bias-sigma-pro-and-sigma-404/135#post_7815708
   
  I askes the questeion about the 507 driver and was told that it is not possible - but I don't really know!
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> For the record, I wouldn't use that resistor.  Generic metal film and the 0.6W rating is highly optimistic...


 


  Ok, thanks Spritzer, how about a 0.6w 3K from Vishay http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/6834199/


----------



## TruBrew

Thanks. I think I have looked through that thread, but can't remember. I guess that mean even if I have, it is time for a second run through.



schorsch said:


> There is a nice thread were the different Sigmas are describes really good!
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/464873/stax-sigmas-compared-low-bias-sigma-pro-and-sigma-404/135#post_7815708
> 
> ...


 
    
   
   
  All this resistor talk really belongs in the DIY section.
  Quote:


hdman said:


> Ok, thanks Spritzer, how about a 0.6w 3K from Vishay http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed/6834199/


----------



## pkshan

After reading spritzer post I did the same ecc99 mod to my T1S.
   
  But I noticed some difference in the picture,
  Some caps in spritzer's T1 were removed, should I remove the caps?
  Thanks!
   

   

  [size=16px !important]   
   
[/size]


----------



## spritzer

The caps were never there in the first place.  There are at least 4-5 different versions of the T1 circuit boards and these comp caps are just added as is needed.  Remove them and you have to deal with oscillations.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> For the comfort or sonically ? I will have to buy new ones but the new ones are only available in Black..


 


  Sorry I missed this.  Mostly comfort.  Maybe they sound a bit better to me, too, due to isolation?  But I haven't done a serious comparison, so ymmv.  The comfort is a big difference though.


----------



## tvrboy

I am considering purchasing a SRM-323S and ESP-950 as my next system. For the cost ($1400 new) do you think this would be a better value than anything else I can get for the same amount? Otherwise, I would be purchasing either a LCD-2.2 or HE-500. I already own a dynamic amp and DAC, so I'm looking at the cost of just headphones vs. stats and energizer. I am aware that used Stax driver units would be much cheaper, but I'm not confident in my ability to replace the capacitors myself. I also am not aware of any electronics stores in the Ann Arbor area who would do this, although if you know of any, please let me know.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

never mind


----------



## Headdie

Maybe you can help answering this question caps / SRD-7 question,
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/588716/vintage-stax-troubleshooting-and-maintenance/15#post_8139717
   
  Thx,


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The caps were never there in the first place.  There are at least 4-5 different versions of the T1 circuit boards and these comp caps are just added as is needed.  Remove them and you have to deal with oscillations.


 


   
  Thank you Spritzer, you are the best headphone expert I've ever seen.
   
   
  I replaced these large resistors with kiwame 8.2k yesterday,
  the sound is more refined, lovely vocals
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  so I would like to try some other brands,Caddock,Mills etc.
   
  But they do not have the exact value I'm looking for.(high watt 8.2K),
  Can I replace them with 9.1k or 7.5k resistors? Will they sound worse than 8.2k?
  thanks
   

  [size=16px !important]  他們的聲音最差
   
[/size]


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





tvrboy said:


> I am considering purchasing a SRM-323S and ESP-950 as my next system. For the cost ($1400 new) do you think this would be a better value than anything else I can get for the same amount? Otherwise, I would be purchasing either a LCD-2.2 or HE-500. I already own a dynamic amp and DAC, so I'm looking at the cost of just headphones vs. stats and energizer. I am aware that used Stax driver units would be much cheaper, but I'm not confident in my ability to replace the capacitors myself. I also am not aware of any electronics stores in the Ann Arbor area who would do this, although if you know of any, please let me know.


 

 I've owned an APS modded ESP-950 (stax cable, dampening removed) and used it with an SRM-1 Mk2 Pro and Woo GES.  It was very nice, and better than my Grado RS-1 at the time.  However, I'd pick an HE-500 over old ESP-950 or my current LCD-2 r1.  That said, I'm spending more time with my SR-009 than anything else, but the HE-500 are the ones I usually go to next when I'm not around a stat amp.


----------



## spekkio

Transformer power specs? If you mean the specs of the amp itself, it's max output 280 Vrms. (For comparison, SRM-323S is 400 Vrms)
  The amp just uses a 12V wall wart. I used the stock Stax one. I'll have to hear the Omegas with a KGSS to see how much more the amp can bring out the potential of these headphones.
  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Sounds to good to be true but i'm glad you like the result. Almost makes me wanna go and get one of these puppies, just that it doesn't come anywhere near affordable included with the SR005S bundle. What's the transformer power specs you're using btw?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tvrboy said:


> I am considering purchasing a SRM-323S and ESP-950 as my next system. For the cost ($1400 new) do you think this would be a better value than anything else I can get for the same amount? Otherwise, I would be purchasing either a LCD-2.2 or HE-500. I already own a dynamic amp and DAC, so I'm looking at the cost of just headphones vs. stats and energizer. I am aware that used Stax driver units would be much cheaper, but I'm not confident in my ability to replace the capacitors myself. I also am not aware of any electronics stores in the Ann Arbor area who would do this, although if you know of any, please let me know.


 


   
  Try the ESP-950 with it's own amp for a while.  Try to find someone who has a Stax amp, take your ESP-950 over to his house with your ESP-950's amp and compare the ESP-950 amp against the Stax amp.  See if you really think the improvement with the Stax amp is worth the expense.
   
  The Stax amps do sound a bit better, but unless I already had Stax 'phones, I wouldn't go to the expense of buying a Stax amp just to drive ESP-950's.  Do a BLIND test, you'll find that the difference isn't as great as people imagine it is.  The Koss amp actually has HIGHER bias, and I think the phones like that.
   
  ESP-950's, like any electrostatic phones, have a quite a different sound over other phones.  Greater transparency, but the bass never has quite the impact as planar or dynamic.  I have HE-6's, LCD-2's and have listened to LCD-2 mk2 and LCD3 as well as HE-500's, and none of those are as transparent as a Koss ESP-950, although they all have better deep bass than the Koss- especially in terms of impact.  The Koss goes low but it just can't quite convey the texture and impact down there.  On the other hand, Koss ESP-950's and Stax have a "hear-through" quality to them, a transparency. 
   
  Look at the waterfall plots, the ESP-950's do really well.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/566929/headphone-csd-waterfall-plots


----------



## tvrboy

Thanks for the responses Milosz and Headphoneaddict, those were very helpful. I will try the Koss with its own amp and see if it's "enough." If I can find a used HE-500 I will try that first, as I already have the amp for it. Seems many people rate it very highly, and I like the voicing of HiFiMAN headphones. But I preferred the SR-507 to the HE-6 when I had them, so that's why I want another set of stats. The main thing stopping me is the cost of the 323S, which although cheap for what it does, is still expensive to me. It's a month's salary! If money were not an issue I would get a 323S and another 507 and pretty much be done with headphones, that is an "end game" rig to me as anything better would be substantially more.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Thank you Spritzer, you are the best headphone expert I've ever seen.
> 
> 
> I replaced these large resistors with kiwame 8.2k yesterday,
> ...


 

 Those are power supply resistors so don't alter the values.


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Hi!
   
  I am considering to buying new amplifier. My setup is currently SR-507, SRM-313 and Electrocompaniet ECD-1 DAC. If I buy better amp, for example SRM-727II, will I hear difference? My hearing is normal.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

o2mk1. 
   
  What exactly is the headband padding made from?  It seems like leather or fake leather on top and different fabric that touches your head.  I ask because I'm wondering how to properly clean/care for it to make sure it lasts!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Try the ESP-950 with it's own amp for a while.  Try to find someone who has a Stax amp, take your ESP-950 over to his house with your ESP-950's amp and compare the ESP-950 amp against the Stax amp.  See if you really think the improvement with the Stax amp is worth the expense.
> 
> The Stax amps do sound a bit better, but unless I already had Stax 'phones, I wouldn't go to the expense of buying a Stax amp just to drive ESP-950's.  Do a BLIND test, you'll find that the difference isn't as great as people imagine it is.  The Koss amp actually has HIGHER bias, and I think the phones like that.
> 
> ...


 

 The Koss is kinda like an electrostatic Grado when it comes to soundstage, a little flat and 2D, but with good detail and speed.  I did like the tonal balance more than the SR-Lambda Pro or SR-Lambda Signature, but I'd pick an Lambda Nova Signature over the ESP-950.  I agree they were very transparent, but my set rolled off about 32Hz, possibly because the dampening was removed by APureSound when they were re-cabled.  I don't know if that affected the soundstage as well, but I doubt it since removing the dampening from a normal bias SR-Lambda increased the soundstage size.  Without comparing directly I can't say if I'd prefer the ESP-950 or HE-500, but HE-500 are very balanced and transparent.  At RMAF out of my DACmini the HE-500 were a lot like the LNS via KGSS.
   
  Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.


----------



## spekkio

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> o2mk1.
> 
> What exactly is the headband padding made from?  It seems like leather or fake leather on top and different fabric that touches your head.  I ask because I'm wondering how to properly clean/care for it to make sure it lasts!


 

 The top is fake leather. The bottom is....I don't really know. I am guessing it is leather but I can't be sure because mine has hardened to the point where it just feels like a piece of plastic.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> The Koss is kinda like an electrostatic Grado when it comes to soundstage, a little flat and 2D, but with good detail and speed.  I did like the tonal balance more than the SR-Lambda Pro or SR-Lambda Signature, but I'd pick an Lambda Nova Signature over the ESP-950.  I agree they were very transparent, but my set rolled off about 32Hz, possibly because the dampening was removed by APureSound when they were re-cabled.  I don't know if that affected the soundstage as well, but I doubt it since removing the dampening from a normal bias SR-Lambda increased the soundstage size.  Without comparing directly I can't say if I'd prefer the ESP-950 or HE-500, but HE-500 are very balanced and transparent.  At RMAF out of my DACmini the HE-500 were a lot like the LNS via KGSS.
> 
> Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.


 


  Only live performances and speakers have real stereo imaging. The is absolutely no comparison between the depth and placement that my triamp DEQX/Magneplanar MG 3.6 or my simpler Quad ESL-57 setup offers and what I hear in ANY headphone / amp combinations I've heard. That said, yeah, I guess some headphones present space a little different from others, but the differences are so minor, and so unsatisfying in terms of "imaging" compared to good speakers that I just can't take headphones seriously in this regard.  Maybe with a Smyth Realizer A8... I dunno, never heard one.     
   
  >>Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.<<    That's a given.  Totally different plugs.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Only live performances and speakers have real stereo imaging. The is absolutely no comparison between the depth and placement that my triamp DEQX/Magneplanar MG 3.6 or my simpler Quad ESL-57 setup offers and what I hear in ANY headphone / amp combinations I've heard. That said, yeah, I guess some headphones present space a little different from others, but the differences are so minor, and so unsatisfying in terms of "imaging" compared to good speakers that I just can't take headphones seriously in this regard.  Maybe with a Smyth Realizer A8... I dunno, never heard one.
> 
> >>Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.<<    That's a given.  Totally different plugs.


 
   
  Careful the headphones image better than speakers brigade will be after you for that comment!


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Only live performances and speakers have real stereo imaging. The is absolutely no comparison between the depth and placement that my triamp DEQX/Magneplanar MG 3.6 or my simpler Quad ESL-57 setup offers and what I hear in ANY headphone / amp combinations I've heard. That said, yeah, I guess some headphones present space a little different from others, but the differences are so minor, and so unsatisfying in terms of "imaging" compared to good speakers that I just can't take headphones seriously in this regard.  Maybe with a Smyth Realizer A8... I dunno, never heard one.
> 
> >>Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.<<    That's a given.  Totally different plugs.


 

 Aye. This is quite true.


----------



## Michgelsen

You are blaming the headphones, but you should blame the recording.
  Unfortunately, almost every recording is to blame.
   
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Only live performances and *speakers have real stereo imaging*. The is absolutely no comparison between the depth and placement that my triamp DEQX/Magneplanar MG 3.6 or my simpler Quad ESL-57 setup offers and what I hear in ANY headphone / amp combinations I've heard. That said, yeah, I guess some headphones present space a little different from others, but the differences are so minor, and so unsatisfying in terms of "imaging" compared to good speakers that *I just can't take headphones seriously* in this regard.  Maybe with a Smyth Realizer A8... I dunno, never heard one.
> 
> >>Also, the Koss can't plug into a Stax amp unless you make an adapter or change the cable or plug to Stax.<<    That's a given.  Totally different plugs.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> You are blaming the headphones, but you should blame the recording.
> Unfortunately, almost every recording is to blame.


 
   
  Since audio can't be stereophonic and binaural at the same time and because pretty much all 2 channel audio content is stereophonic I don't think its unfair to judge how headphones reproduce stereophonic content.


----------



## Maxvla

You just have to know going in that it won't sound 'right'.


----------



## catscratch

maverickronin said:


> Since audio can't be stereophonic and binaural at the same time and because pretty much all 2 channel audio content is stereophonic I don't think its unfair to judge how headphones reproduce stereophonic content.




This. Headphones don't have the natural crossfeed speakers have and are not going to image like speakers. That doesn't mean that headphones can't image, it just means that recordings are mixed for speakers and don't sound right on headphones.

As personal listening becomes more and more prevalent, we may see even binaural rise out of the grave, and more music may be mixed for headphones. Emphasis on "may," because we need enough people to care to make a substantial market niche of it and it's unlikely to happen anytime soon, or ever.


----------



## Maxvla

I personally hope to see all releases in the future have both binaural and stereo versions. So many people using headphones now it seems like it could happen. Shouldn't be much harder to do, just a second (probably easier) mic setup and more storage on the music sites.


----------



## sphinxvc

Sure, I hope that too but it will (in all likelihood) never happen.  Something more feasible to hope for would be for cheaper competitors to the Smyth Realisers of the world.


----------



## arnaud

HD Tracks has such recording available in stereo and binaural (Oscar Peterson: Unmistakable - Zenph Re-performance). You get both versions in the download. The stereo version does not image that bad but the binaural version is indeed more natural...


----------



## sillysally

That's correct, binaural is a recording technique for headphones, non binaural is for speakers, and that is where the Realiser comes into play.
  But unless you want to go to the trouble to really setup the Realiser properly, don't bother with the Realiser.
   
  However if you do go to all the trouble to setup the Realiser properly, it can be amazing, particularly for well mastered MCH sound tracks.
  After pairing the Realiser (PRIR's from AIX) with the SRM-727/SR009 combo and keeping the audio signal in a digital form, until it hits my DAC and then out to the SRM-727 via a pair of Eclipse 6 XLR interconnects (1M) (imo the Eclipse 6 adds weight to the sound of this combo). It is truly like being back in the AIX sound studio using there speaker systems and room acoustics, setup by there sound engineer. Matter of fact the above setup may be even better than being there because of how headphones work, meaning better clarity and better direction from the surround Ch's.


----------



## Maxvla

Does a realizer only work for one set of headphones or will it work for any headphones?


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Does a realizer only work for one set of headphones or will it work for any headphones?


 


  It works with any but comes bundled with a Stax 2050 system. Last I checked (which was quite a while ago to be fair) there wasn't an option to order the realiser on its own.


----------



## Maxvla

Hm. I guess a better worded question would be:

Does the profile they program for you (if you visit their place) work for only the headphone you use at their place or will it work for any (ok maybe not _any_) you plug in? Do you have to have a profile for each headphone?


----------



## spekkio

As far as I understand, the profile you obtain at their place is a calibration for the speaker 'sound sig'. It is independent of your choice of headphone. You could plug a set of M50s in and the Realizer would still try to make it sound like the speakers the system were calibrated to. So you don't need a profile for each headphone, you need a different profile for each speaker system you measure.


----------



## Maxvla

Very cool. I might have to consider one down the road. Thanks for the info and sorry about the off topic.


----------



## sillysally

Yes you do the profile (HPEQ) at your home for any thing that is downstream from the Realiser, that includes headphones, has nothing to do with were you did your PRIR's.
   
  Yes when I got my Realiser they showed just the package deal, but because I already had the HD-800's they reduced the price by just getting the Realiser. I think I was about $850 less. I was lucky that when I got my Realiser the second edition Realiser that could be up-graded to the HDMI ports had just been re-least, HDMI compatibility is now in the latest Realiser. By using the HDMI in port of the Realiser I can bypass the Realisers DAC, there by keeping the signal digital. The audio signal must be in the LPCM digital form for the Realiser to do It's magic.
   
  Yes you should do a new profile (HPEQ) for anything you change down stream of the Realiser including headphones, this is very important.
  Matter if fact, I have had to do about 9 or 10 HPEQ's with my Stax combo to get it right, that's how important the HPEQ really is.


----------



## tvrboy

I agree with milosz in that I don't care very much about soundstage in headphones. I know speakers will always do a much better job imaging, and recordings are made for 2-channel speaker systems. While good soundstage is a nice bonus in a headphone, it's not something I think about when purchasing, as I realize it will never be as good as even a cheap speaker system. As long as the imaging is not totally flat (think of a SR-225i) I'm pretty happy. Anyway, headphones are my hobby and speakers aren't. I know I could get a great speaker setup, but I'm just not interested. It's never "headphones vs. speakers" in my head. For the true zealot, there can be only one focus in life!


----------



## Amarphael

Well with the O2 i think the stereo reproduction is very comparable to at least a nice near-field speaker setup, The imaging and depth layering are rendered at an extremley satisfying level to me, just scaled to a smaller sound field.
   
  The SR-202, the only other stat that i've heard, was much flatter in depth but retained the level if imaging accuracy iirc. I wonder what part the O2's angular pads design have in this improvement relative to the increased diaphram surface and it's better resolution. Does the SR-507, the pinnacle of lambda design today, display noticeably better stage depth than lower/older lambdas?


----------



## sillysally

To each there own.


----------



## cat6man

does anyone know if the realizer introduces cross coupling between channels, or if it is a linear filter for each channel?
  i never heard of this before and will have to do some research


----------



## arnaud

Probably time to brush on this great article on headwize about head stage vs. sounstage with the O2 . Indeed, the high end stax gear conveys imo a realistic headstage with precise width/depth and layering (the SR009 takes this 3 notches above the O2mkII in my system). A speaker presentation, no. A satisfying rendering, to my ears, yes very much if there's adequate source material to start with (not necessarily binaural).


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> does anyone know if the realizer introduces cross coupling between channels, or if it is a linear filter for each channel?
> i never heard of this before and will have to do some research


 


  You need to read about HRTFs, there's probably some easy to grasp material on the Smyth website. The short answer is that the PRIR is an HRTF for the headings of a typical 5.1 or  7.1 A/V system and includes room response (as any multi-channel mix isn't supposed to be played back in a totally dry sounding environment). HRTFs means that, each speaker output is mapped into a binaural signal with effectively a cross-feed between the ears. The beauty of it is that it's not one of those approximate filters with some delay / tonal correction, neither is it based on some random dummy head HRTF: it's using your actual head to generate the HRTF with as much precision as can be practically achieved through tiny in-ear mics.
   
  As mentioned above, there needs to be some correction to play that back through headphones as you don't want to have the pinna interacting twice with the signal. That's were the HPEQ comes into the pictures: it's simply trying to equalize out the headphone response and it's interaction with the outer ear (e.g. trying to make the headphone measure flat at the same tiny mics location that are placed at the entrance of the ear canal). The HPEQ can thus occur anywhere, provided it's not too noisy environment (you just insert the mics like you did in the PRIR recording, but this time instead of playing a signal through the speakers to your bare head, the realizer is playing a signal through the headphones you're wearing). I suppose you can have multiple HPEQs just like I believe it accommodates multiple users with different PRIRs...


----------



## cat6man

Thanks Arnaud!

I'm familiar with the technical methodology you describe. To a techie geek like myself, this is a very clever scheme in my opinion.
(I went to their website)

I used to have Carver's speaker version for 2 speakers (can't remember what he called it) and my old
headroom portable amp has a switch for turning on a 'spatializer-y' thing that i've never particularly liked.

Cheers

p.s. Too bad this isn't the type of thing you can bring to a canjam since the response is tailored to a single individual.............


----------



## sillysally

You can store up to 64 PRIR's and 64 HPEQ's in the Realiser, plus as many as you can fit on SD cards for use in the Realiser.


----------



## cat6man

Yes, but if I show up at my local canjam, none of those will be a match for me.
What if we all got ourselves measured and carried our personal hearing profiles, per realizer spec,
on SD cards in our pockets? Then it would work.


----------



## Maxvla

cat6man said:


> Yes, but if I show up at my local canjam, none of those will be a match for me.
> What if we all got ourselves measured and carried our personal hearing profiles, per realizer spec,
> on SD cards in our pockets? Then it would work.




But that would defeat the point of 'trying it' at a meet


----------



## TruBrew

I agree. If you are walking around with a HPEQ/PRIR in your pocket, then you already have it set up. If you use that at a meet you will simply be listening to a system you already own. 
  
  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> But that would defeat the point of 'trying it' at a meet


----------



## cat6man

so there is no way to deconvolve this into a part that is only a function of your ears (vs. someone else ears)?

if the resultant can be factored into a 'system' part and a 'person' part, which together give the correct result, this would be possible.
without looking at the mathematics, i really can't tell.

interesting stuff though


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> so there is no way to deconvolve this into a part that is only a function of your ears (vs. someone else ears)?
> if the resultant can be factored into a 'system' part and a 'person' part, which together give the correct result, this would be possible.
> without looking at the mathematics, i really can't tell.
> interesting stuff though


 


  I think if it was possible, they would offer it, I had a long discussion with Lorr the sales rep for Smyth Research, since I live in a country where they don't offer professional studio measurements, I asked him if he could send me some measurement files to at least compare them to my measurement and check the differences but apparently that's a big no-no and even after offering to compensate them financially they refused to share any, I think if there was a way for them to do it it would be a huge selling point.


----------



## Headdie

Are the first SR-Lambda an upgrade to the SR-X Mk3 ? Or, they just sound different...
   
  I have an opportunity, but I don't want to sidestep only.
   
  Thx,


----------



## charliex

Completely different in looks, construction and sound.  I love my normal bias SR-Lambda's.


----------



## ri_toast

first of all the nb lambda are over the ear not an on ear pad headphone, light as a feather. very forward midrange makes it a very good hp for vocals. good fr. plenty of stat "air" absolutely a keeper.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> Yes, but if I show up at my local canjam, none of those will be a match for me.
> What if we all got ourselves measured and carried our personal hearing profiles, per realizer spec,
> on SD cards in our pockets? Then it would work.


 
  Yes then it would work.
   
  Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I think if it was possible, they would offer it, I had a long discussion with Lorr the sales rep for Smyth Research, since I live in a country where they don't offer professional studio measurements, I asked him if he could send me some measurement files to at least compare them to my measurement and check the differences but apparently that's a big no-no and even after offering to compensate them financially they refused to share any, I think if there was a way for them to do it it would be a huge selling point.


 

 Lorr Kramer is the NA VP for SVS. He also was on Dr. Smyth's team when they developed DTS.
   
  If you go to AIX sound studio or others in the LA area, ask Lorr to set up a time to reserve the Studio's or Theater, he will also come with you to set up the Realiser for doing your PRIR's. He also keeps copy's stored of your PRIR's that are made, so if you loose your PRIR's he can just E-Mail them to you.
  As you found out the PRIR's that he has stored are private and only the owner of the PRIR's can share them.
   
  There have been folks that own the Realiser, that have come from all over the world to go to LA and AIX plus other places.
   
  I flow in to LA from Chicago and back in less than 18 hours door to door, to have my PRIR's made at AIX. The cost was very reasonable, but I got the cheapest non stop flight i could find.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> You are blaming the headphones, but you should blame the recording.
> Unfortunately, almost every recording is to blame.


 
  No, unless your head/ears are free to move in relation to the soundfield, there is no "image" - only a spatial "effect."  The effect can be pleasant but it's not realistic.  One accepts it as part of the headphone experience. Headphone listening is fun, the effect is kind of cool. I'm not saying headphone listening is bad.  I have over $10,000 spent on headphones and amps, if you include my still-being-built DIY T2.  Headphones do many things well, and for less money that a speaker setup costs. But the sound is all between the ears.  Even good binaural recordings, like those hi-rez recordings from Chesky on www.hdtracks.com sound "inside the head."
   
  No headphones I've ever listened to put the sonic image in front of me, which is where it belongs.  Included: Stax Sigmas, AKG 1000's, Sennheiser HD800s etc and so forth.    
   
  When I go to hear the Chicago symphony, they don't play inside my head.  Real music performance happens in front of the listener.
   
  So when I read people talking about "headphone imaging"  etc  I just roll my eyes. Yeah, there are some differences in spatial presentation, but to my way of thinking it hardly merits discussion because that part of the experience is so unrealistic compared to listening to a live performance or to speakers.


----------



## Maxvla

You're being a bit unrealistic. Who moves around while listening critically? Do you go to the Chicago Symphony and meander through the aisles while they are playing? No. The aim of audio reproduction is to try to make the sound feel like you are in your seat enjoying the performance.

And yes, stereo imaged content has a 'hole' in the middle that a speaker field is supposed to crossfeed naturally. This doesn't happen with most headphones though, so you have to go into headphone listening with that as a caveat.

Sound is inside your head whether you believe it or not, apart from tactile sensations from vibrations felt by your body, the sound you hear is what makes it into your ear canal which is inside your head. If a transducer can accurately depict that same presentation, you are hearing it exactly as if you were listening live. Current forms have a lot of problems doing it perfectly, and so none accurately do this, but it's getting closer and closer. I don't think it will be possible by means of moving air, but might be possible in the future by means of nerve impulses tricking your brain into 'hearing'.


----------



## jaycalgary

I bought a guitar and plan to play it through a Roland Quad Capture Card through laptop to W4S Dac2 to Stax 717 out to my 007's. Could guitar distortion and effects harm my 007s in any way?


----------



## El_Doug

no, no harm will come to the cans in this fashion.  however, distortion effects sound really really lame.  distortion should only come through a "properly" overdriven tube guitar amp, imho   there is no comparison - DSP can only fake it so well
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I bought a guitar and plan to play it through a Roland Quad Capture Card through laptop to W4S Dac2 to Stax 717 out to my 007's. Could guitar distortion and effects harm my 007s in any way?


----------



## jaycalgary

Thanks I don't even know how to play yet but so far seem like a pretty neat way to learn with the help of a computer. A real amp and distortion would get me evicted.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Thanks I don't even know how to play yet but so far seem like a pretty neat way to learn with the help of a computer. A real amp and distortion would get me evicted.


 

 Some amps and combos have headphone jacks on them. You also don't need to turn them up that loud to enjoy them. Back when I used to play I had a Marshall combo (very disappointed) and then a VOX which I really liked. No complaints from the neighbors.


----------



## ishmael

I'm looking for some info about the Stax 4070. I never realized there was a closed Stax until now. I guess it isn't that popular. Anyways, can anyone speak of it first hand, good bad or whatever? I need to use closed headphones most of the time and there isn't that many options. Tried Ultrasone, Denon, Sony Z1000, heard some things I liked and some that I didn't, ultimately I'm still looking.
   
  Also, is it crazy to use a Woo Audio WEE to power a higher end Stax like the 4070? I would be using some fairly nice integrated amp, maybe a Cary tube amp or Rega Brio R solid state. Would that be a disadvantage compared to using e real dedicated Stax amp or some other aftermarket one? I dn't think I have the budget for a 4070 AND a BHSE or something like that.


----------



## arnaud

Oups... I heard a strange noise when I powered my 727 amp tonight (a plit second, at startup, like a "pssssccchhhh" sound coming from inside the amplifier). Also, I am hearing line noise (50-60Hz), mostly through the right ear of 009 driver, except if I touch the volume pot or the chassis. This has never happened before. The more worrying thing is that I seem to not be getting any sound out. Could it be due to static electricity? (very dry here in the winter). Is something likely fried in there?
  Note that the buzz sound is even louder on the 007A and no music plays there either. I plugged / unplugged both headphones several times, shorted the pins with my fingers, turned the amp off and on, nothing changes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
  Any inputs?
   
  Edit: I also hear the buzzing sound when the amp is turned off. I hear it too when disconnecting the source (RCA), although a little more faint. I also checked the source plays fine into my portable amp / earphones...
   
  Edit 2: the amp doesn't seem to be warming up at all (it usually runs warms after 30 minutes or so). I also can't see any leds on inside (isn't there like 4 red diodes normally or something similar?). Sounds like trouble... Could it be just a protection fuse? The orange power led on the front panel is lit.


----------



## Amarphael

Apperantly seems like major trouble, you should open it up and check the transistors are intact, see if anything is blown, espcially diodes. But maybe it's hust the fuse blown though, shoudn't be hard to verify.


----------



## spritzer

Ok. first step would be to measure the offset to see if there is any output from the amp.  If there is a serious malfunction then the servo kicks in and shuts off the output so you have to measure at the relay terminals.  Flip the amp on its side and you can spot them clearly. 
   
  If the leds aren't lit then look at the PSU.  Any issues there and measure all the 4 rail voltages. 
  
  Quote: 





ishmael said:


> I'm looking for some info about the Stax 4070. I never realized there was a closed Stax until now. I guess it isn't that popular. Anyways, can anyone speak of it first hand, good bad or whatever? I need to use closed headphones most of the time and there isn't that many options. Tried Ultrasone, Denon, Sony Z1000, heard some things I liked and some that I didn't, ultimately I'm still looking.
> 
> Also, is it crazy to use a Woo Audio WEE to power a higher end Stax like the 4070? I would be using some fairly nice integrated amp, maybe a Cary tube amp or Rega Brio R solid state. Would that be a disadvantage compared to using e real dedicated Stax amp or some other aftermarket one? I dn't think I have the budget for a 4070 AND a BHSE or something like that.


 

 The 4070 is almost as good as the Omegas so yeah, they blow away any other closed headphone.  Slight coloration in the midrange but it is very minor. 
   
  I'd recommend a transparent amp for the 4070.  These are monitor headphones so they hide nothing.


----------



## ishmael

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 4070 is almost as good as the Omegas so yeah, they blow away any other closed headphone.  Slight coloration in the midrange but it is very minor.
> 
> I'd recommend a transparent amp for the 4070.  These are monitor headphones so they hide nothing.


 


  Thank you for the reply.
   
  So do you think it would be crazy to run the 4070 with a Woo WEE and a high quality integrated amp? I don't know much about the dedicated electrostatic amps. Is it the type of thing where no matter how good of an amp you used, the WEE would always be a limitation? Or do you think I could get pretty far with that setup? 
   
  Also, what is the midrange coloration? On the euphonic side, or what? 
   
  Thanks again I appreciate the help, not many people seem to have used the 4070 or maybe they just dont want to talk about it.


----------



## arnaud

Thanks for the advice. You lost me in the second sentence though: no way I am even going to probe anything, I am that scared of estat amps and clueless about electronics in general... I mostly wanted to hear if anyone had similar experience. Intuitively, it seems like an issue with a build-up of static electricity. I happened to sweep the top surface with my hand before turning on the amp and might have touched my hair before that. The amps are that sensitive though?!
   
  Anyhow, going to the dealer today...
  
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok. first step would be to measure the offset to see if there is any output from the amp.  If there is a serious malfunction then the servo kicks in and shuts off the output so you have to measure at the relay terminals.  Flip the amp on its side and you can spot them clearly.
> 
> If the leds aren't lit then look at the PSU.  Any issues there and measure all the 4 rail voltages.
> 
> ...


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ok. first step would be to measure the offset to see if there is any output from the amp.  If there is a serious malfunction then the servo kicks in and shuts off the output so you have to measure at the relay terminals.  Flip the amp on its side and you can spot them clearly.
> 
> If the leds aren't lit then look at the PSU.  Any issues there and measure all the 4 rail voltages.
> 
> <snip>


 

 I was wondering what the little red lights inside the amp indicated, if that's what you are talking about.
   
  Anyway I really do like pairing the SRM-727 with the SR-009's, thanks for the tip.


----------



## Grev

Hey guys, TOTAL noob here, just wondering, what is the best performance to cost pair of Stax?  That is including second hand too.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





milosz said:


> No, unless your head/ears are free to move in relation to the soundfield, there is no "image" - only a spatial "effect."  The effect can be pleasant but it's not realistic.  One accepts it as part of the headphone experience. Headphone listening is fun, the effect is kind of cool. I'm not saying headphone listening is bad.  I have over $10,000 spent on headphones and amps, if you include my still-being-built DIY T2.  Headphones do many things well, and for less money that a speaker setup costs. But the sound is all between the ears.  Even good binaural recordings, like those hi-rez recordings from Chesky on www.hdtracks.com sound "inside the head."
> 
> No headphones I've ever listened to put the sonic image in front of me, which is where it belongs.  Included: Stax Sigmas, AKG 1000's, Sennheiser HD800s etc and so forth.
> 
> ...


 



 Well,
   
  I had the out of head experence with stax lambda pro / Signature Pro with ED 1 and corresponding stax amps and some recordings.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Maxvla

grev said:


> Hey guys, TOTAL noob here, just wondering, what is the best performance to cost pair of Stax?  That is including second hand too.




Of the recent models, SR202 no doubt. Not sure if the new 207 sounds the same, but if it does, those would apply as well. Preferred the 202 to 303 and 404 and the prices just get higher and higher from there.


----------



## MDR30

Any brilliant ideas on how to fix a SR5 with weaker sounding right channel? I have opened the cup and checked the cable connections, the driver looks OK. Is it any idea dismantling it? Would love to see some photos of it taken apart.
   
  The SRD6 seems to play equally loud on both channels with another SR5 (which has weaker bass, on the other hand).


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





grev said:


> Hey guys, TOTAL noob here, just wondering, what is the best performance to cost pair of Stax?  That is including second hand too.


 


  Cheap reciever or T amp -> SRD-6 -> SR Lambda


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Well,
> 
> I had the out of head experence with stax lambda pro / Signature Pro with ED 1 and corresponding stax amps and some recordings.
> 
> Regards Georg


 
  Same here. Listened to track 1 of the Stax Space Sound Binaural Cd and asked the salesperson to turn off the recording of someone playing guitar from the next room, as I wanted to listen closely to the CD. He just laughed. And I was a very experienced headphone listener by then. That CD will only be prised from my cold dead hands.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Cheap reciever or T amp -> SRD-6 -> SR Lambda


 


  Bingo!


----------



## jaycalgary

I haven't even seen a pair of SR Lambda for sale in quite a while. HProbably quite a few like me started out with a set up just like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-Earspeakers-Driver-Unit-/330686584149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfe74d555


----------



## jaycalgary

Can't say I have seen one of these before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Julius-Futterman-Stax-Earspeaker-Amp-Stax-SR-X-MK2-and-SR-3-Earspeakers-/150761445017?_trksid=p5197.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26itu%3DI%252BUA%26otn%3D9%26pmod%3D330686584149%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6428052080337070547


----------



## gilency

7000.00 for 4 normal bias jacks?
  you gotta be kidding me!
  I suppose it could power my normal Sigmas


----------



## Frur

I wonder how the SR-009 pair with the KGSSHV?
   
  What is the cheapest pro-bias stax phones you can get used?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





frur said:


> I wonder how the SR-009 pair with the KGSSHV?
> 
> What is the cheapest pro-bias stax phones you can get used?


 

 The SR-009 pair wonderfully with my normal DIY KGSS, so I don't see why a KGSSHV won't be a good match.
   
  I actually prefer the normal bias SR-Lambda over the SR-Lambda Pro, and sometimes I felt that the SR-Lambda Signature beat out the Pro but not the normal bias ones.  I just sold a spare normal bias Lambda last week, but I always keep at least one pair that I'll never sell.  I only asked for $250 with an SRD-7, but I've seen them go as high as $300.  The cheapest pro bias Stax phone I would want to own is the Lambda Nova Signature, which sells for $350-550 depending on condition and market price.  I have a pair of LNS and it reminds me a lot of my normal bias pair, but it can be used with my HEV70, KGSS and WES that do not have normal bias jacks.  The LNS also reminds me a bit of my HiFiMan HE-500.  I haven't heard the SR-202 so I can't say if that is worth having or not.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





gilency said:


> 7000.00 for 4 normal bias jacks?
> you gotta be kidding me!
> I suppose it could power my normal Sigmas


 


  Because it is a hand built Futterman, he might get that much from the Far East.


----------



## ishmael

Quote: 





ishmael said:


> So do you think it would be crazy to run the 4070 with a Woo WEE and a high quality integrated amp? I don't know much about the dedicated electrostatic amps. Is it the type of thing where no matter how good of an amp you used, the WEE would always be a limitation? Or do you think I could get pretty far with that setup?
> 
> Also, what is the midrange coloration? On the euphonic side, or what?
> 
> Thanks again I appreciate the help, not many people seem to have used the 4070 or maybe they just dont want to talk about it.


 
   
   
  Bump, still looking for some opinions on this question. There are folks out there like me with some very nice amps and integrated units, in the $1k-10k range. Could slapping a Woo Audio WEE on there turn it into a respectable system for driving one of the higher end Stax like SR4070 or SR007? 
   
  And I would still welcome opinions on the 4070 specifically. Comparisons to other high end headphone you have heard?


----------



## Audiogalore

Quote: 





ishmael said:


> Bump, still looking for some opinions on this question. There are folks out there like me with some very nice amps and integrated units, in the $1k-10k range. Could slapping a Woo Audio WEE on there turn it into a respectable system for driving one of the higher end Stax like SR4070 or SR007?
> 
> And I would still welcome opinions on the 4070 specifically. Comparisons to other high end headphone you have heard?


 



 I have not tried a Woo WEE but I own a SRD7 MKII and have fantastic results driving it from my Pass Labs Class "A" First Watt F1.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I just sold a spare normal bias Lambda last week, but I always keep at least one pair that I'll never sell.  I only asked for $250 with an SRD-7, but I've seen them go as high as $300.  The cheapest pro bias Stax phone I would want to own is the Lambda Nova Signature, which sells for $350-550 depending on condition and market price.  I have a pair of LNS and it reminds me a lot of my normal bias pair, but it can be used with my HEV70, KGSS and WES that do not have normal bias jacks.  The LNS also reminds me a bit of my HiFiMan HE-500.  I haven't heard the SR-202 so I can't say if that is worth having or not.


 

 Aw, can't believe I missed that deal...I'm on the lookout for a stock SR-Lambda since while the SR-202 is good, it's not Normal bias Lambda good (especially in the midrange) and I don't like the Nova-style headband/arc as much.
   
  Speaking of the Lambda Nova Signature, how do you think the midrange compares between it and the SR-Lambda? One person's impressions were that the SR-Lambda still has the edge in midrange, but the LNS could outdo it in extension both ways.
   
  Given the higher price, though, I'll probably just stick to finding that stock, solidly-functioning SR-Lambda and take a vacation from this place before it does any more financial damage.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

john buchanan said:


> Same here. Listened to track 1 of the Stax Space Sound Binaural Cd and asked the salesperson to turn off the recording of someone playing guitar from the next room, as I wanted to listen closely to the CD. He just laughed. And I was a very experienced headphone listener by then. That CD will only be prised from my cold dead hands.




I've never heard of this cd. I must have it. Where can I get it?


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I've never heard of this cd. I must have it. Where can I get it?


 


  They are really hard to get. Go to Australia - find John and grab it from him ) Or come to Germany and have a listen.
  The former Stax distributor for Germany released some recordings under the label Audiostax.
  Not all of them a muscally satisfying. My favourite one is a CD played by the Auos Bläserquintett.
  All those Audiostax CDs a limitied to about 2000 copies!!!
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Given the higher price, though, I'll probably just stick to finding that stock, solidly-functioning SR-Lambda and take a vacation from this place before it does any more financial damage.


 

 I love my normal bias original Lambda, played with a SRD 7SB through 300b tubes.  Don't really think it gets much better than that.  It does, but one wonders if it is worth the struggle and expense.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Thanks!  do we know how many of the original stax cd's there were?  I found this listing, but its not available.
  http://musicfidelity.blogspot.com/2009/03/audio-stax-electrostatic-headphones.html#comments
   
  love to hear some of these.  my stax desire it.
  Quote: 





schorsch said:


> They are really hard to get. Go to Australia - find John and grab it from him ) Or come to Germany and have a listen.
> The former Stax distributor for Germany released some recordings under the label Audiostax.
> Not all of them a muscally satisfying. My favourite one is a CD played by the Auos Bläserquintett.
> All those Audiostax CDs a limitied to about 2000 copies!!!
> ...


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Thanks!  do we know how many of the original stax cd's there were?  I found this listing, but its not available.
> http://musicfidelity.blogspot.com/2009/03/audio-stax-electrostatic-headphones.html#comments
> 
> love to hear some of these.  my stax desire it.


 

 That's the one I have - Audiostax "Space Sound" CD. Not much music - lots of effects. Recorded with a Neumann Dummy Head. There are effects there that are literally shocking, they are so real. Track 2 starts with a woman getting in the shower. Water sprays on her shower cap and it sounds EXACTLY like you are there. Not a little like it, duck-your-head EXACTLY. It's quite a shock to hear what can be reproduced. Track 1 with Mike playing the guitar to your right is the one that fooled me. Am I ever glad I picked that CD up - it was given away with a Lambda Nova Signature purchase. Who would have thought something that spectacular could be allowed to go out of print?


----------



## gilency

I have several of the binaural CD's LFF mentions in this thread. They are fantastic.
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/511850/awesome-binaural-albums
  BTW John, I do prefer the Omega II to the Sigmas (404 -formerly Pro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




- and normal bias).
  Not planning on selling them though....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





ishmael said:


> Bump, still looking for some opinions on this question. There are folks out there like me with some very nice amps and integrated units, in the $1k-10k range. Could slapping a Woo Audio WEE on there turn it into a respectable system for driving one of the higher end Stax like SR4070 or SR007?
> 
> And I would still welcome opinions on the 4070 specifically. Comparisons to other high end headphone you have heard?


 

 The WEE driven by my ZDT amp beats the stock Stax SRD-7 Pro, SRD-7 Mk2, and a modded SRD-7 with direct to transformer connection.  But it's still a little less detailed and spacious than my WES or KGSS with the SR-009 or SR-007.  It'll get the job done, and it's an upgrade over the vintage transformers, but I think a dedicated Stax amp is a better choice.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Aw, can't believe I missed that deal...I'm on the lookout for a stock SR-Lambda since while the SR-202 is good, it's not Normal bias Lambda good (especially in the midrange) and I don't like the Nova-style headband/arc as much.
> 
> Speaking of the Lambda Nova Signature, how do you think the midrange compares between it and the SR-Lambda? One person's impressions were that the SR-Lambda still has the edge in midrange, but the LNS could outdo it in extension both ways.
> 
> Given the higher price, though, I'll probably just stick to finding that stock, solidly-functioning SR-Lambda and take a vacation from this place before it does any more financial damage.


 

 I think the normal bias Lambda is great, and the LNS is great.  Believe it or not but I haven't compared them in the same system, and now with the eXStatA gone I have to use a transformer for the Lambdas because none of my 3 working amps has a normal bias jack.  
   
  Maybe sometime this week I can dig out the SRD-7 Mk2 with pro and normal bias jacks and compare the two side by side out of my ZDT amp, but the SRD-7 Mk2 is not nearly as clean sounding as the WEE which has two pro bias jacks and no normal jack.  Still, at least they'd be on a level playing field with the same source, amp and transformer.  
   
  I have a modded SRD-7 SB that has the input direct into the transformers and sounds a little better than the Mk2 with the right amp, but it's less than a 4 ohm load and doesn't sound good with my ZDT amp which prefers 8-16 ohm loads on the speaker outputs.  I have to use the modded transformer with my Travagans Red or Nuforce Icon amps, and my son is hogging the Nuforce while the Travagans is packed away.


----------



## thainxce

I ve just got an combo system SRS 3170 . Most of all the sound like highly details , so that I can hear many of exciting sound . They make me feel so amazing , especialy in HDmovie . all I can easily hear the real life sound , the sound when you walk on the street , or in talking with someone , or in the bar when the live-jazz . Wow !!!


----------



## pkshan

The x07s aren't bad, I found that some music genre like Marcus Miller,
  the 507s perform MUCH better than the lambda signature.
  bass, drums, brass instruments & guitars,are very engaging under 507.and they sound real.




   
  The 507 mids are not as magical as the lambda sig though,
  the signature mids are just incredible life-like. they are touching your heart,
   
  These cans are very different.


----------



## MDR30

Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> Any brilliant ideas on how to fix a SR5 with weaker sounding right channel? I have opened the cup and checked the cable connections, the driver looks OK. Is it any idea dismantling it? Would love to see some photos of it taken apart.
> 
> The SRD6 seems to play equally loud on both channels with another SR5 (which has weaker bass, on the other hand).


 

 Spritzer? Are ageing and deteriorating electrostatic (and ortho) membranes a fact of life?


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> Spritzer? Are ageing and deteriorating electrostatic (and ortho) membranes a fact of life?


 


  Hi MDR30,
   
  It is actually the coating material on the diaphragm that is to blame for.  The coating does deteriorate through time and change of environment.  If you have nothing to lose, you might want to try to recoat diaphragm with something that will make it somewhat conductive.  There are many materials that can be used.  But, the easiest and very effective material that I have found to work great is a permanent antistatic solution.  It's water base solution, and is very easy to apply.  All you need is a very, tiny drop of it and you can coat the whole diaphragm.  After coating, you want to have a surface resistance of at least 10 x 10^6 ohm per square. 
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## schorsch

Crazy
   
  Futterman amp for Stax earspeakers:
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Julius-Futterman-Stax-Earspeaker-Amp-Stax-SR-X-MK2-and-SR-3-Earspeakers-/150761445017?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6491668021651344401
   
  found on ebay.
   
  What an OTL clone thread)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## LCfiner

I just received a Stax O2 Mark I and Woo GES from cantsleep here on the forums. It's a wonderful combination. I've been listening to it for hours and hours straight since yesterday afternoon and I have no regrets selling my HD800 and other headphones to get this.
   
  It's been a few weeks since I last listened to the HD800 before letting it go, but from my recollection, the O2 has about the same level of detail and speed, a bit smaller soundstage, more weight with low frequency instruments, a meatier midrange and a bit less treble energy (but not a huge difference) There's also a bit less impact and slam on the O2 with some low frequency hip hop beats (not a huge deal on this last point.)
   
  Compared with the SR-407 and T1S combo that I had briefly last month - and which prompted me to get this system - the 007 has a less shouty midrange, a better soundstage, more impactful bass and oh yeah, much better comfort.
   
  The tonality of this combo is just about perfect for my taste. What surprises me a little bit is how close the measured FR of this headphone is to the LCD2 rev2 - A headphone that I felt was awfully dark and muffled sounding.  I do not get that feeling at all from the O2.
   
  I am currently using a headroom desktop amp as a DAC and pre-amp in the system (I have powered speakers I need to control). I do not notice any obvious deficiencies from this setup. I can hear very subtle details in the recordings I have and there is a very accurate sense of imaging going on. Every instrument in well recorded live sessions has a location that feels very lifelike.
   
  I have found from previous unscientific listening tests at my place the last couple years that I do not notice DAC changes nearly as much as amp changes - or headphone changes. Still, I may be looking to replace the DAC /pre-amp with something better in the next couple years.
   
  I consider myself very lucky that I found an O2 mark I available for sale. And especially fortunate that I can now listen to this great headphone every day now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Can't say I have seen one of these before.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Julius-Futterman-Stax-Earspeaker-Amp-Stax-SR-X-MK2-and-SR-3-Earspeakers-/150761445017?_trksid=p5197.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26itu%3DI%252BUA%26otn%3D9%26pmod%3D330686584149%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6428052080337070547


 

 It's nice to finally see what's inside that amp.  Way, way too many triodes so they are either run in parallel or just half a tube is used...


  Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> Spritzer? Are ageing and deteriorating electrostatic (and ortho) membranes a fact of life?


 

 As Wachara said, it's most often the coating that has deteriorated but there are other factors, namely arcing due to being over driven (the SRD boxes can easily do this with normal bias drivers) and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I have a modded SRD-7 SB that has the input direct into the transformers and sounds a little better than the Mk2 with the right amp, but it's less than a 4 ohm load and doesn't sound good with my ZDT amp which prefers 8-16 ohm loads on the speaker outputs.  I have to use the modded transformer with my Travagans Red or Nuforce Icon amps, and my son is hogging the Nuforce while the Travagans is packed away.


 

 Another suggestion to mod the SRD-7/SB by taking the PCB out of the equation...or is that only on the input side and not the output side, after the transformers?
   
  I still left mine stock, only because I'd think that the PCB is there for a very good reason, otherwise it wouldn't be there and spritzer wouldn't have sold replacement Pro bias boards.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> I have found from previous unscientific listening tests at my place the last couple years that I do not notice DAC changes nearly as much as amp changes - or headphone changes. Still, I may be looking to replace the DAC /pre-amp with something better in the next couple years.
> 
> I consider myself very lucky that I found an O2 mark I available for sale. And especially fortunate that I can now listen to this great headphone every day now.


 
   
  Rather than changing your DAC, you may want to consider getting a BHSE instead. The GES can drive the O2 as adequately well as many of the other available amps under $2K, but it really thrives on a truly TOTL amp.


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Rather than changing your DAC, you may want to consider getting a BHSE instead. The GES can drive the O2 as adequately well as many of the other available amps under $2K, but it really thrives on a truly TOTL amp.


 


  I’ve certainly thought about upgrading the amp down the line but, well, the step up from the GES, whether it’s a BHSE or possibly a Cavalli LL, are a bit too rich for my blood. 
   
  My yearly income would need to double or triple for me to be able to get one and not feel a little sick. 
   
  My thoughts about the DAC come from a place where I think I could substitute my DAC in the 300 dollar range with something in the 1K range. and, even then, I have no idea if I would even notice the difference. It might be a short-lived experiment when it comes time to try it out.


----------



## KingStyles

Speaking of cheaper amps, does anybody have a update on the EC electra before I bug Craig about it?


----------



## boba6

Hi, I just bought an early (serial 4xxx) *SRM-1/MK2* normal bias amp and separate an SR-303 headphone.
  I sent the amp to modify to pro bias, and after it, during the balance and offset setting, de minimum values we can set and measured are:
  balance left: YEL/GRE 0,1V, 
  balance right: RED/WHT *94V*
  offset left: GND/YEL 9,4V
  offset right: GND/GRE 8,8V
   
  It seems one 2SB832 transistor is dead  
  Of course it is not too possible to get the same transistor nowdays... What is acceptable for replacement? (I think it is good to change all of them in this case)
  Thank you.
   
  ps: I found a later schematic from this amp only, anybody has the right one for this one?


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's nice to finally see what's inside that amp.  Way, way too many triodes so they are either run in parallel or just half a tube is used...
> 
> As Wachara said, it's most often the coating that has deteriorated but there are other factors, namely arcing due to being over driven (the SRD boxes can easily do this with normal bias drivers) and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.


 


  Well I think it's the principle of Futtermann amps to run the triodes parallel to avoid the output transformer.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

That's only true of speaker amps where there is a massive impedance mismatch between the output of the tubes and the speakers.  With electrostatic transducers then there is no such mismatch.  No internal pics but the tubes used point to this having nothing at all to do with the other Futterman amps.


----------



## DarknightDK

I've been thinking about picking up a pair of Stax, either the O2 or the 009. Being new to Stax, could someone explain the differences in SQ between the O2 Mk1, O2 Mk2 and the 009? Is the O2 Mk2 a good step up from the O2 Mk1?
   
  Also, I've read a few posts where some claim they prefer the O2 over the 009 for a 'warmer sound'? Is the 009 really much better than the O2 for 2x the price?
   
  Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





darknightdk said:


> I've been thinking about picking up a pair of Stax, either the O2 or the 009. Being new to Stax, could someone explain the differences in SQ between the O2 Mk1, O2 Mk2 and the 009? Is the O2 Mk2 a good step up from the O2 Mk1?
> 
> Also, I've read a few posts where some claim they prefer the O2 over the 009 for a 'warmer sound'? Is the 009 really much better than the O2 for 2x the price?
> 
> Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


 

 You can get a pretty good idea of the various Omega 2s here (the article also covers the SR-009 and the Orthos) http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/comparing-world-class-headphones-stax-sr-007
   
  Long story short, the Mk2 is not a step up from the Mk1, and the "Mk2.5", which is likely the version you'll get if you order a new pair from a shop ain't so great. If you want an O2, the Mk1 is the one to have. I really like the Mk1's balanced sound and its forgiving treble, which is why I have some trepidation about the 009.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





darknightdk said:


> I've been thinking about picking up a pair of Stax, either the O2 or the 009. Being new to Stax, could someone explain the differences in SQ between the O2 Mk1, O2 Mk2 and the 009? Is the O2 Mk2 a good step up from the O2 Mk1?
> 
> Also, I've read a few posts where some claim they prefer the O2 over the 009 for a 'warmer sound'? Is the 009 really much better than the O2 for 2x the price?
> 
> Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


 


 My first advice is to make every effort to try them out for yourself before you spend that kind of money. As you have observed from other posts - personal taste differs quite a lot. Decisions about amps also come into play. This week-end I went to a local dealer and got to try the 507, O2 Mk2 and 009. Surprisingly the 009 seemed easier to drive, it was louder at the same volume setting with the srm-007 tII. Comfort also comes into play - I spend many hours with headphones on my head - if they aren't comfortable I will get frustrated regardless of the sound quality. To attempt to answer your question, from the 45 minutes or so spent switching between the 3 headphones, there is no way in which the O2 Mk2 is better than the 009, but the difference is small. To my wallet it's not worth twice the price. The 507 was very impressive in terms of value for money - personally I think it's better than any dynamic headphone I have ever tried (HD 800, high end audio-technica, etc). I'm still going to make an effort to try to find an O2 Mk1, many opinions on these boards favour it over the Mk2. And consider buying second hand. All used stax gear tends to retain value quite well.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> Surprisingly the 009 seemed easier to drive, it was louder at the same volume setting with the srm-007 tII


 
   
  This is the general consensus that I've heard from folks that have tested them. The Omega 2 really craves power, and the 007Tii just doesn't have enough of it. An O2 Mk1 on a BHSE will put up a much tougher fight against the SR-009 on the SRM-007Tii or a GES. Ironically I've seen mentioned in several SR-009 reviews that it "needs" $5,000 worth of BHSE or WES behind it to be worth using. This is considerably less true about the 009 than it is about the O2.


----------



## arnaud

As much as I like the 009, I am not sure I could recommend it blindly over the O2mk2 given the high retail price (esp. outside  japan) and without knowledge of the target audience (both sound preference and equipment). To my ears, it's clearly better (as in not subtle) than my 007a through the 727 stax amp, but it's also much more needy of quality source material (both the dac and especially the music). Considering the high end non-stax amps seem to do marvels at extracting the last bit of potential from the O2, it becomes even harder to recommend the 009 for such owners who've dialed their rig to sound right with the o2.
   
  On the other hand, if budget is not the main issue,  starting from scratch (not a previous stax owner), for someone who's listening to well recorded  music and/or at reasonable volume through a reasonable quality player/dac, I would easily recommend the 009 and stax amp (possibly even just the 323s) over the O2. The accessibility (both price and immediate availability) is much higher than jumping to something like the bhse right from the start and, if anything, the level of performance will keep going north as you latter invest in higher end dac and/or amp...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> This is the general consensus that I've heard from folks that have tested them. The Omega 2 really craves power, and the 007Tii just doesn't have enough of it. An O2 Mk1 on a BHSE will put up a much tougher fight against the SR-009 on the SRM-007Tii or a GES. Ironically I've seen mentioned in several SR-009 reviews that it "needs" $5,000 worth of BHSE or WES behind it to be worth using. This is considerably less true about the 009 than it is about the O2.


 

 Actually, my SR-009 do very well off a maxed eXStatA, or even the Sennheiser HEV70, although they are only as good as the amp you are using.  They take a nice step up with my DIY KGSS or WES, but don't rule out using a cheap amp with SR-009.  You may be surprised.


----------



## sillysally

I am glad to read you agree with me on the SRM-009's. Also why I took a pass on the BHSE with the 009's and got a SRM-727, I think the 727 amp is more flexible over the 323 mainly because of its XLR balanced input, plus it being a little more powerful.
   
  I can't really say if the XLR balanced part of the 727 would be any better than RCA 2Ch audio. For MCH audio using the Binaural technique, the balanced out for the 009's is amazing because of the 009's sound-field for 5.1/7.1 audio and it's ability to separate the sounds and where they are coming from.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> On the other hand, if budget is not the main issue,  starting from scratch (not a previous stax owner), for someone who's listening to well recorded  music and/or at reasonable volume through a reasonable quality player/dac, I would easily recommend the 009 and stax amp (possibly even just the 323s) over the O2. The accessibility (both price and immediate availability) is much higher than jumping to something like the bhse right from the start and, if anything, the level of performance will keep going north as you latter invest in higher end dac and/or amp...


 
   
  This is a good point. If you happen to have $6K, you could have an SR-009 and a 323S in your hands within a week. Tracking down an O2 Mk1 will take awhile, and the wait for a BHSE could take as long as a year, and the two of them will cost more than the 323/009 combo.


----------



## Maxvla

davebsc said:


> This is a good point. If you happen to have $6K, you could have an SR-009 and a 323S in your hands within a week. Tracking down an O2 Mk1 will take awhile, and the wait for a BHSE could take as long as a year, and the two of them will cost more than the 323/009 combo.




Interestingly, when I posted a wanted thread for various Stax models, the first offering was a O2 MK1 I ended up buying.


----------



## sillysally

Or for less then $700 more get the 009/727 combo (when on sale). The one thing to make sure if you are buying new as I did or used, is to get the Stax amp using the right voltage for where you live.
   
  For hundreds less than the BHSE/009 combo with the Alps RK-50 pot and upgrading the tubes. I got all my gear and that includes the Realiser and AIX PRIR's.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Interestingly, when I posted a wanted thread for various Stax models, the first offering was a O2 MK1 I ended up buying.


 
   
  There's also two MK1s on Audiogon right now. Shows what I know


----------



## arnaud

Is there usually so many o2mk1 on the used market? Could it be people who are moving up the ladder and are ok with only the 009?


----------



## TMoney

Anyone else find it humourous that everyone who has been commenting on the 009s sounding just fine out of the production model Stax amps hasn't heard what they are capable of out of something like a BHSE/T2/KGSSHV/Etc?
   
  Honestly guys, you may think they sound "good enough" now, but wait until you hear how they sound with a higher powered amp. You won't be able to go back.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Anyone else find it humourous that everyone who has been commenting on the 009s sounding just fine out of the production model Stax amps hasn't heard what they are capable of out of something like a BHSE/T2/KGSSHV/Etc?
> 
> Honestly guys, you may think they sound "good enough" now, but wait until you hear how they sound with a higher powered amp. You won't be able to go back.


 
   
  Humourous it may be, but it also goes the other way around: people claim that only such non-stax uber-offerings can really do justice, while at the same time absolutely nobody bothers trying the stax amps. I asked in several threads, especially from recent bay area meet where both stax amps and other offerings with multiple 009s were present. But in the end, I think only 1 person gave it a shot (elysean - sorry if I misspelled). And guess what, it seemed he preferred something else over the BHSE in regards to the 009. I understand there's only so much value when the environment is noisy and sources are different. But well, this is the status: people keep propagating this non-sense about the 009 needing no less than these Gilmore designs to move its behind while people who actually spent time with lesser gear find absolutely none of the driving issues the O2 suffers from when underpowered.


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Humourous it may be, but it also goes the other way around: people claim that only such non-stax uber-offerings can really do justice, while at the same time absolutely nobody bothers trying the stax amps. I asked in several threads, especially from recent bay area meet where both stax amps and other offerings with multiple 009s were present. But in the end, I think only 1 person gave it a shot (elysean - sorry if I misspelled). And guess what, it seemed he preferred something else over the BHSE in regards to the 009. I understand there's only so much value when the environment is noisy and sources are different. But well, this is the status: people keep propagating this non-sense about the 009 needing no less than these Gilmore designs to move its behind while people who actually spent time with lesser gear find absolutely none of the driving issues the O2 suffers from when underpowered.


 

 The SR-009 with srm-600 ltd is stellar.I was first looking  727,007 amps but the dealer said "take srm-600 it's much better than 727 or 007 with 009".I will not comment more on this issue because i dont have 727,007 amps to compare .


----------



## Hennyo

Tmoney is not talking about the BHSE. This amp was designed specifically for the O2's. He's talking about the KGSSHV. Which is basically an evolution of the evolution of the Sr 727A. The BHSE and the KGSSHV are two completely different beasts, along with the AC coupled WES.


----------



## TMoney

I'm actually talking about all the higher end amps. Please don't clarify my statements.
   
  Come on, Arnaud. You trust the impressions of people at meets listening on unfamiliar amps and headphones in a noisy environment over those of us who have lived with _both_ Stax production amps and higher powered 3rd party/DIY amps? Don't answer that, rhetorical question.
   
  I fully admit that I felt the same way as you do _until_ I heard one of Kerry's DIY stat amps at a meet. It'll change your perceptions of what the 007/009s are capable of. After that there is no turning back.
   
  There are good reasons why you almost never see the higher end stat amps up for sale here, on ebay and on a-gon.
   
  Try and cop a listen to one sometime if you can. I would hope that at least one of the new BHSE's is headed to Japan. If you still feel the way you do after a listen, then you'll sound quite a bit more credible than relying solely on hearsay.


----------



## spritzer

The KGSSHV is not an evolution on the 727 or the 717 for that matter.  What on earth gave you that idea?  The 727 is just the latest version of a long running Stax circuit (around 30 years old now) but the KGSSHV is the ultimate version of the old KGSS.  Kevin even talked about doing these mods in his old KGSS article but the parts were in short supply then.
   
  The BHSE being designed for the SR-007 is another baseless statement.  The Blue Hawaii makes all electrostatic headphones perform at their best but that doesn't mean that the end result is better subjectively.  The HE90 s a good example of a transducer needing a sympathetic match and I do think the SR-009 falls into this category.  This is a "fault" of the transducer and not the amp.  The amp I use with the 009's is a bit of an oddball, a fully rebuilt SRA-10S.  I bypassed all of the preamp stuff so the end result is a push-pull driver stage with a single ended output stage fed off a single B+ and thus needs output caps.  The only issue with this amp is the high capacitance of the old TO3 output devices but I've got some parts sitting in customs to try and rectify that.


----------



## Amarphael

Just wondering if Edifier-backed Stax will be hastening the (hopfully existant) R&D for the next top amp... Yes i know they said there isn't anything planned for the near future but that was BEFORE, iirc.


----------



## DarknightDK

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> My first advice is to make every effort to try them out for yourself before you spend that kind of money. As you have observed from other posts - personal taste differs quite a lot. Decisions about amps also come into play. This week-end I went to a local dealer and got to try the 507, O2 Mk2 and 009. Surprisingly the 009 seemed easier to drive, it was louder at the same volume setting with the srm-007 tII. Comfort also comes into play - I spend many hours with headphones on my head - if they aren't comfortable I will get frustrated regardless of the sound quality. To attempt to answer your question, from the 45 minutes or so spent switching between the 3 headphones, there is no way in which the O2 Mk2 is better than the 009, but the difference is small. To my wallet it's not worth twice the price. The 507 was very impressive in terms of value for money - personally I think it's better than any dynamic headphone I have ever tried (HD 800, high end audio-technica, etc). I'm still going to make an effort to try to find an O2 Mk1, many opinions on these boards favour it over the Mk2. And consider buying second hand. All used stax gear tends to retain value quite well.


 


   


  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> As much as I like the 009, I am not sure I could recommend it blindly over the O2mk2 given the high retail price (esp. outside  japan) and without knowledge of the target audience (both sound preference and equipment). To my ears, it's clearly better (as in not subtle) than my 007a through the 727 stax amp, but it's also much more needy of quality source material (both the dac and especially the music). Considering the high end non-stax amps seem to do marvels at extracting the last bit of potential from the O2, it becomes even harder to recommend the 009 for such owners who've dialed their rig to sound right with the o2.
> 
> On the other hand, if budget is not the main issue,  starting from scratch (not a previous stax owner), for someone who's listening to well recorded  music and/or at reasonable volume through a reasonable quality player/dac, I would easily recommend the 009 and stax amp (possibly even just the 323s) over the O2. The accessibility (both price and immediate availability) is much higher than jumping to something like the bhse right from the start and, if anything, the level of performance will keep going north as you latter invest in higher end dac and/or amp...


 


   


  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Humourous it may be, but it also goes the other way around: people claim that only such non-stax uber-offerings can really do justice, while at the same time absolutely nobody bothers trying the stax amps. I asked in several threads, especially from recent bay area meet where both stax amps and other offerings with multiple 009s were present. But in the end, I think only 1 person gave it a shot (elysean - sorry if I misspelled). And guess what, it seemed he preferred something else over the BHSE in regards to the 009. I understand there's only so much value when the environment is noisy and sources are different. But well, this is the status: people keep propagating this non-sense about the 009 needing no less than these Gilmore designs to move its behind while people who actually spent time with lesser gear find absolutely none of the driving issues the O2 suffers from when underpowered.


 


  Thanks for your advise guys. I really appreciate the input, especially coming from the people who have a vast knowledge and experience with Stax and their associated equipment.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:  





> The HE90 s a good example of a transducer needing a sympathetic match and I do think the SR-009 falls into this category.  This is a "fault" of the transducer and not the amp.  The amp I use with the 009's is a bit of an oddball, a fully rebuilt SRA-10S.  I bypassed all of the preamp stuff so the end result is a push-pull driver stage with a single ended output stage fed off a single B+ and thus needs output caps.  The only issue with this amp is the high capacitance of the old TO3 output devices but I've got some parts sitting in customs to try and rectify that.


 
   
  Interesting. What is it about the sound of the SRA-10S that appeals to you with the 009? Are there any current production amps that have similar attributes?


----------



## spritzer

It takes the edge off the sound just enough for me to tolerate them with less than optimal source material.  It's a fine line to dull them down just enough and not overdo it...
   
  Ohh and for the record, the SRA-12S is the same as SRA-10S except it has a multi voltage transformer and some small tweaks.  I just had SumR make a new transformer for my amp. 
  
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Just wondering if Edifier-backed Stax will be hastening the (hopfully existant) R&D for the next top amp... Yes i know they said there isn't anything planned for the near future but that was BEFORE, iirc.


 

 I'm sure they are working on new designs but they are pretty much up against a proverbial wall of diminishing returns.  They could make a solid state amp with a more sophisticated PSU, more voltage swing, better volume control etc. but it would be far larger than the 727 and much heavier.  This causes all sorts of problems for them such as having to retool for a new chassis.  A new tube amp is possible with CCS loading and a better PSU but what tube can they use?  The best tube for this role is the 6S4A but it hasn't been made since the 70's and there aren't many good alternatives in current production, certainly no noval tubes.  Smaller octals are out of the picture and that pretty much leaves you with a EL34 and all the heat they will give off.  The first prototype T2 was basically a T1 with EL34's but they quickly found out that won't work since the driver stages aren't rubust enough.  This takes you to Blue Hawaii specs and there is simply no way to build one of those cheaply.


----------



## arnaud

darknightdk said:


> Thanks for your advise guys. I really appreciate the input, especially coming from the people who have a vast knowledge and experience with Stax and their associated equipment.




Make no mistake: people like spritzer know wayyy more about stax history, their amps and issues and the whole over set of offerings outside of stax. He may be opiniated and rough on the edges at times but you can certainly pay close attention to whay he says...

I was merely trying to adjust the false pretense that the sr009 will sound nowhere near good enough out of one of those built-to-cost designs of stax, namely the 727 amp... Like spritzer, I am not talking just about performance but especially overall enjoyment. 

Anyhow, tmoney is ultimately right that only direct exposure will help confirm or infirm this thought but, being based in Japan, I don't see that happening anytime soon (.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> Actually, my SR-009 do very well off a maxed eXStatA, or even the Sennheiser HEV70, although they are only as good as the amp you are using.  They take a nice step up with my DIY KGSS or WES, but don't rule out using a cheap amp with SR-009.  You may be surprised.


 
   
  Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Anyone else find it humourous that everyone who has been commenting on the 009s sounding just fine out of the production model Stax amps hasn't heard what they are capable of out of something like a BHSE/T2/KGSSHV/Etc?
> 
> Honestly guys, you may think they sound "good enough" now, but wait until you hear how they sound with a higher powered amp. You won't be able to go back.


 
   

  No, not funny at all.  I have heard the SR-009 via BHSE, Cavalli Liquid Lightning, Woo WES and KGSS.  That doesn't take away from the fact that the SR-009 sound great with lesser amps as well.  I think that the source and program material might be more important than the amp with these phones, although everything in the chain makes a difference since they are so revealing.  With the O2 Mk1 the amp becomes a bigger part of the gear choice.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS:  For sources with the SR-009 and KGSS amp I prefer the Stello DA100 Signature or PS Audio Perfectwave DAC over the Apogee mini-DAC or CEntrance DACmini, due to their more organic tone and slightly more laid back nature.  With my WES amp any of the 4 DACs were just as good, as the amp is more forgiving.  Synergy can be important, I'm not downplaying that, I'm just saying the SR-009 don't need a $5K amp to perform well.


----------



## Uncle00Jesse

I have a question. Why aren't there more companies putting out "affordable" stat amps? Clearly stax and other electrostatic products are popular, although limited. It just seems very difficult to get into stats for the first time when there is just so little to choose from, not to mention very price prohibiting even when your willing to put in a couple grand.


----------



## sillysally

Last night I was balancing my 7.1 PRIR virtual speakers using my SRM-727/SR-009 combo. Much to my surprise all the 7.1 CH's were with-in 1or 2 db of each other. I reran the tests three times just to make sure, and all three times they were the same. Using any of my dynamic tube amps and headphones, I could never get these type of results as I did with the SRM-727/SR-009 combo.
  So why are the virtual speakers with the Stax SS amp so close, as opposed to using tube amps. Could it be that tubes amps are not as exacting as SS amps, or maybe its just how the 727 high voltage SS amp pairs with the 009's. Also knowing that the SRM-727 is no slouch in the voltage swing department.
   
  As I have said before the 727/009 combo, at-least with my rig and ears is not what I would call a forgiving setup, but then again I didn't spend this obscene amount of money for the 727/009 combo for something that was forgiving.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





uncle00jesse said:


> I have a question. Why aren't there more companies putting out "affordable" stat amps? Clearly stax and other electrostatic products are popular, although limited. It just seems very difficult to get into stats for the first time when there is just so little to choose from, not to mention very price prohibiting even when your willing to put in a couple grand.


 
   
  The SRM-252S is pretty affordable. There aren't $50 electrostatic amps that come in Altoids tins, but then the CMOY doesn't need to swing 300V.


----------



## Maxvla

uncle00jesse said:


> I have a question. Why aren't there more companies putting out "affordable" stat amps? Clearly stax and other electrostatic products are popular, although limited. It just seems very difficult to get into stats for the first time when there is just so little to choose from, not to mention very price prohibiting even when your willing to put in a couple grand.




When I've asked companies if they will be carrying low-medium price stat amps they have replied that it's too dangerous to work with. Thus you have the few who dare to make them and be responsible for the consequences, then you have the maker of most stat headphones making them, and that's it. It's unfortunate because the top stat amps have been around for quite a long time and innovation is slow. KG has given us fairly regular updates with the KGSSHV being the latest, and Cavalli coming out with the Liquid Lightning, but both are expensive still. Other than Stax brand amps I have trouble coming up with even 10 stat amps DIY or otherwise at any price point.

I agree that it's tough to break into stats. I'm doing it as we speak with my Omega 2's being delivered tomorrow. The amp market is such a desert that I've settled with using a mere energizer until I figure out what to do about it.


----------



## bmoura

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Humourous it may be, but it also goes the other way around: people claim that only such non-stax uber-offerings can really do justice, while at the same time absolutely nobody bothers trying the stax amps. I asked in several threads, especially from recent bay area meet where both stax amps and other offerings with multiple 009s were present. But in the end, I think only 1 person gave it a shot (elysean - sorry if I misspelled). And guess what, it seemed he preferred something else over the BHSE in regards to the 009. I understand there's only so much value when the environment is noisy and sources are different. But well, this is the status: people keep propagating this non-sense about the 009 needing no less than these Gilmore designs to move its behind while people who actually spent time with lesser gear find absolutely none of the driving issues the O2 suffers from when underpowered.


 

 That was my experience at the Bay Area Meet as well.  I preferred the Liquid Lightning over the BHSE with the 009.  And the Stax SRM-727II over both the LL and the BHSE.


----------



## livewire

*QUOTE: "*I have a question. Why aren't there more companies putting out "affordable" stat amps? Clearly stax and other electrostatic products are popular, although limited.
  It just seems very difficult to get into stats for the first time when there is just so little to choose from, not to mention very price prohibiting even when your willing to put in a couple grand."
   
  The Koss ESP-950 setup is a deal for around the same price as the Stax 2170 combo. ~$700
  If you're patient, you can find both of those systems used for $200 to $300 less. That's "affordable", no?
  If you got $2K to throw around, any of the Lambas (SR307-SR407-SR507) and a SRM323 amp will do the job.
  You could check and see if HE Audio is still selling the Jade, but I would not recommend it.
  And yes, you are right, there are not a lot of choices in this arena. But there are some GREAT ones.
   
  Not a lot of estats in circulation due to the higher cost of the parts required to handle the high voltage.
  Dynamic headphones do not require high voltage, so the costs can be kept substantially lower as long as one doesn't attempt B22 type overkill.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> When I've asked companies if they will be carrying low-medium price stat amps they have replied that it's too dangerous to work with. Thus you have the few who dare to make them and be responsible for the consequences, then you have the maker of most stat headphones making them, and that's it. It's unfortunate because the top stat amps have been around for quite a long time and innovation is slow. KG has given us fairly regular updates with the KGSSHV being the latest, and Cavalli coming out with the Liquid Lightning, but both are expensive still. Other than Stax brand amps I have trouble coming up with even 10 stat amps DIY or otherwise at any price point.





> I agree that it's tough to break into stats. I'm doing it as we speak with my Omega 2's being delivered tomorrow. The amp market is such a desert that I've settled with using a mere energizer until I figure out what to do about it.


 

 I really don't think the situation is all that bad. You have what, seven Stax headphones that aren't portables, plus the Koss headphones and I guess the Jades. How many amps do you need to serve such a small market? Sennheiser alone makes WAY more headphones than that. Combine that with hundreds of other dynamics and you can see why there might be a few more amps on that side. For most of the available models, the 323S, the 006TS, and the GES should all be perfectly fine.
   
  The Omega 2 can be driven by the 727II or any of three currently available ultra high-end tube amps, plus the upcoming LL, and possibly the Electra, I don't know what the voltage swing is going to be on that amp. Do you need more than 7 choices including the KGSSHV for one headphone?


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


spritzer said:


> A new tube amp is possible with CCS loading and a better PSU but what tube can they use?  The best tube for this role is the 6S4A but it hasn't been made since the 70's and there aren't many good alternatives in current production, certainly no noval tubes.  Smaller octals are out of the picture and that pretty much leaves you with a EL34 and all the heat they will give off.  The first prototype T2 was basically a T1 with EL34's but they quickly found out that won't work since the driver stages aren't rubust enough.  This takes you to Blue Hawaii specs and there is simply no way to build one of those cheaply.


 

  Why is it so complicated to produce high quality tubes nowdays?  Of course the demand is supposedly scarse in the big picture but is it so expansive? e.g isn't turntable design today more advanced, and expansive, than it was in the good ol'days?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Too many nasty things about making tubes.
   
  Cathode material and Getter are known to cause cancer.
   
  Rows and Rows of diffusion pumps and mechanical pumps
  are expensive to maintain and generate even more airborne
  particulate matter. Plus every time a tube bursts during pumping
  its possible that the oil in the diffusion pump burns causing
  downtime.
   
  Turbo pumps do not have enough endurance and are too
  much money for this kind of thing.
   
  The expertise to build quality tubes is rapidly disappearing
  as the experts are dying off.
   
  Not enough demand to run even one line continuously.


----------



## bcg27

I actually saw a really fantastic video of a guy making his own vacuum tubes. It is in french but I thought it was fascinating and really, reallly impressive. Supposedly the guy made all of the jigs and stuff that you see in the video. Here is the link: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3wrzo_fabrication-d-une-lampe-triode_tech


----------



## spritzer

The tubes we need are very particular so high plate voltage but not a whole lot of power.  The old TV tubes were many like this given the very high voltage inside the ol'box but tube TV's died out in the 70's.  This is also the reason why we are running out of good high voltage transistors since CRT's are dead...


----------



## Maxvla

davebsc said:


> I really don't think the situation is all that bad. You have what, seven Stax headphones that aren't portables, plus the Koss headphones and I guess the Jades. How many amps do you need to serve such a small market? Sennheiser alone makes WAY more headphones than that. Combine that with hundreds of other dynamics and you can see why there might be a few more amps on that side. For most of the available models, the 323S, the 006TS, and the GES should all be perfectly fine.
> 
> The Omega 2 can be driven by the 727II or any of three currently available ultra high-end tube amps, plus the upcoming LL, and possibly the Electra, I don't know what the voltage swing is going to be on that amp. Do you need more than 7 choices including the KGSSHV for one headphone?




I guess the problem for me with the Stax amps is that I have no idea what they are. They are just numbers, and a ton of different models. They don't seem to go in any sort of order, like higher model number is better, etc. And of course all the versions of the same model number.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> I guess the problem for me with the Stax amps is that I have no idea what they are. They are just numbers, and a ton of different models. They don't seem to go in any sort of order, like higher model number is better, etc. And of course all the versions of the same model number.


 

 There are a lot of discontinued Stax amps that can be tough to keep track of, but there are only 5 current production Stax amps for the American market as far as I know. On the solid state front you have the entry 252S, mid 323S (the S models replaced the "II" models for 2010) and the top 727II. No 727S as of yet. For tubes, you have the mid-level 006TS (again replacing the older 006TII) and the top 007TII. Despite being a top model the 007TII swings significantly less voltage than the 323S, which makes it not particularly well suited to drive the Omega 2. 
   
  Japanese market amps are called "A" instead of II.


----------



## sphinxvc

Is the 727 an improved version of the 717?  Or did they move backwards the way they did with the O2 MKI/MKII?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Is the 727 an improved version of the 717?  Or did they move backwards the way they did with the O2 MKI/MKII?


 

 It's a different design. IIRC, the 717 is a modified KGSS. The 727 is kind of like the O2 MkII actually, not so great stock, but there's a Spritzer mod to fix it. With the mod in place, it's better than the 717.


----------



## TMoney

EDIT: Removed in light of Kevin's post below.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The 727 is a local feedback version of the 717. The 727 has a current source, the 717 has a resistor. Otherwise virtually identical.
  The 727 runs the output stage at higher power.
   
  The kgss and the 717 are similar amplifiers. (4 stage amplifiers)
   
  The kgsshv and the 727 are similar amplifiers except the kgsshv uses global feedback. (4 stage amplifiers)
   
  If people want it, the next revision of the kgsshv boards will have the local/global feedback option.
   
  Personally i like the sound of the global feedback version better.
   
  The 313 and 323 are 3 stage amplifiers. Same or similar to all the transportables (srmXh,srm151,srm252)
   
  There are the 2 ac coupled single power supply amps, sr-001 and srm300
   
  the srm-t1, t1s and 006t are virtually identical. (solid state/tube hybrid)
   
  the 007 has twice the number of output tubes and runs the output stage at twice the power. (solid state/tube hybrid)
   
  The T2 is a tube/solid state/tube hybrid.
   
  The BH and BHSE are essentially the T2 output stage with the kgss input stage configured for 800 volts.
   
  For stuff older than the srm-t1, things get complicated. spritzer has more of the really old schematics.


----------



## DarknightDK

Quote: 





bmoura said:


> That was my experience at the Bay Area Meet as well.  I preferred the Liquid Lightning over the BHSE with the 009.  And the Stax SRM-727II over both the LL and the BHSE.


 

 Did you say the SRM-727II sounds better than the LL or the BHSE?? Is this in relation to using these amps with the 009?
   
  Could you post your impressions of the sound of the SRM-727II's as compared with the LL?
   
   
   
  I've read some mixed impressions of the SRM-727II and not many seem to recommend it. I'm considering getting the 009 in future and wonder if the SRM-727II is a good match for the 009. So far, the LL seems to be a great match but its way over budget. Are the differences in sound between the SRM-727II and LL subtile?


----------



## spritzer

While we are on the subject, Stax amp history lesson. 
   
  First SRA1-8 amps were all classic tube units of varying complexity made in the 60's. 
   
  SRA-3S was the first deviation from this with a transistor front end and AC coupled tube output stage.  Preamp and phono amp on plug in cards similar to the old ISA units used in PC's. 
   
  SRA-10S/12S were the first SS amps with a push pull front end and AC coupled outputstage.  Run fully in Class A they get stinking hot and feature a nice regulated PSU for the low voltage circuit and a stacked PSU for the +640VDC B+. Similar plug in system as on the SRA-3S but now everything except the basic PSU is on plug in cards and the build quality is far better. 
   
  SRD-X was the first portable Stax amp and features an automotive chip amp driving a pair of transformers.  Think Darkstar but with much better specs done in 1979.... 
   
  SRM-1 Mk1 was pretty much the same circuit as the SRA-12S but turned on its head.  Similar AC coupled output stage.  I recently refurbished one of these and it is a nice little amp but the SRA-12S is better over all. 
   
  SRM-1 Mk2 is where things get tricky since there are so many variations of it.  The first ones were some weird Mk1/Mk2 hybrid though fully DC coupled but later units are much more similar to the current crop of Stax amps like the 313.  Now the amps are fully balanced from input to output though most only have RCA inputs. 
   
  SRA-14S is pretty much the SRM-1 Mk2 circuit but turned on its head.  Better parts and some tweaks but most of the price difference is spent on the preamp capability. 
   
  SRM-3 is just a SRM-Xh with a full size power supply.  It even uses the same circuit boards. 
   
  SRM-600LTD is the same basic circuit as the T1/006t but modified to take the ECC99 tube.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The KGSSHV is not an evolution on the 727 or the 717 for that matter.  What on earth gave you that idea?  The 727 is just the latest version of a long running Stax circuit (around 30 years old now) but the KGSSHV is the ultimate version of the old KGSS.  Kevin even talked about doing these mods in his old KGSS article but the parts were in short supply then.
> 
> The BHSE being designed for the SR-007 is another baseless statement.  The Blue Hawaii makes all electrostatic headphones perform at their best but that doesn't mean that the end result is better subjectively.  The HE90 s a good example of a transducer needing a sympathetic match and I do think the SR-009 falls into this category.  This is a "fault" of the transducer and not the amp.  The amp I use with the 009's is a bit of an oddball, a fully rebuilt SRA-10S.  I bypassed all of the preamp stuff so the end result is a push-pull driver stage with a single ended output stage fed off a single B+ and thus needs output caps.  The only issue with this amp is the high capacitance of the old TO3 output devices but I've got some parts sitting in customs to try and rectify that.


 

 >> The amp I use with the 009's is a bit of an oddball, a fully rebuilt SRA-10S<< 
   
  What?  Not a T2, DIY or otherwise?


----------



## Headdie

Gentlemen,
   
  I have an SRD-7. I'd like to take it twenty feet away from my power amplifier, just beside my computer and listening chair. To do that, I wonder if I could run speaker cables from my amplifier to the SRD-7 loud speaker outs (yes the SRD outputs)... And to turn them into inputs, I would also connect the SRD inputs to the SRD loud speaker outs... Hoping that you follow me... Now, I don't understand the electronics inside, but reasoning it as a blackbox, it seems to me that it should work... The front switch would just become an on/off switch... Could someone tell me if I'm gonna fry everything inside or get sweet music if I do it ?
   
  Thank so much,


----------



## maverickronin

Just connect the extra speaker wire to the leads on your SRD-7.  Get some twist connectors of you don't have a soldering iron.


----------



## tyre

I'm curious where the idea that the regular Stax amps are insufficient to drive the O2 originates from. Are there any objective measurements around to verify this?

 SR-007mk2:

 Impedance : 170k (at f = 10 KHz)
 Capacitance : 94pF (including cable)
 Sensitivity : 100dB / 100V r.m.s. at f = 1 KHz

 SR-507:
   
  Impedance : 145k (at f = 10 KHz)
 Capacitance : 110pF (including cable)
 Sensitivity : 100dB / 100V r.m.s. at f = 1 KHz

 There doesn't seem to be a great deal of difference here. Sensitivity is identical, and capacitance is actually lower on the O2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> >> The amp I use with the 009's is a bit of an oddball, a fully rebuilt SRA-10S<<
> 
> What?  Not a T2, DIY or otherwise?


 

 Nope and this is with a rack full of electrostatic amps.


----------



## arnaud

Very interesting post from KG about the differences between his and stax designs. Sad that this will be swamped into this 1000+ pages thread, isn't there a way to sticky such info?
   
  In regards to the 727 amp, Birgir, I just dig an older post of yours where you did not see any particular issue with lack of feedback in the 727 output stage ( post #31 ). I guess that was before you could listen to it?


----------



## Headdie

Thank Spritzer for just connecting the extra speaker wires to the leads on my SRD-7. Keep it simple is always a good idea and I might do that. But this way, I'd loose the advantage of the banana plugs behind the SRD-7. It wouldn't be easy to plug/unplug the energizer and move it from one system to the other. I could probably fit banana females on the leads, but reusing the SRD speaker outs seems simpler to me... So my question remains : would it be ok to short the leads to the speaker outputs of the SRD-7 ?​   
  Quote: 





headdie said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> I have an SRD-7. I'd like to take it twenty feet away from my power amplifier, just beside my computer and listening chair. To do that, I wonder if I could run speaker cables from my amplifier to the SRD-7 loud speaker outs (yes the SRD outputs)... And to turn them into inputs, I would also connect the SRD inputs to the SRD loud speaker outs... Hoping that you follow me... Now, I don't understand the electronics inside, but reasoning it as a blackbox, it seems to me that it should work... The front switch would just become an on/off switch... Could someone tell me if I'm gonna fry everything inside or get sweet music if I do it ?
> 
> Thank so much,


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Very interesting post from KG about the differences between his and stax designs. Sad that this will be swamped into this 1000+ pages thread, isn't there a way to sticky such info?
> 
> In regards to the 727 amp, Birgir, I just dig an older post of yours where you did not see any particular issue with lack of feedback in the 727 output stage ( post #31 ). I guess that was before you could listen to it?


 

 This was just after the amp was released so I hadn't heard it.  In theory there is nothing wrong with the non-nfb except it needs to be run harder to make up for the lack of feedback.  I said as much back then. 
   
  I was also really into tubes back then... how things change since to me they are just a gimmick these days and I take sand over them any day.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





tyre said:


> I'm curious where the idea that the regular Stax amps are insufficient to drive the O2 originates from. Are there any objective measurements around to verify this?
> 
> SR-007mk2:
> 
> ...


 

 I'd be interested in this too since I'm not really up on how or if the requirements of a 'stat amp are different from an amp for normal dynamics besides just needing to swing a lot more voltage.
   
  Has anyone ever measured different 'stat amps different real loads attached to see how they compare?


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> I'd be interested in this too since I'm not really up on how or if the requirements of a 'stat amp are different from an amp for normal dynamics besides just needing to swing a lot more voltage.


 
   
  http://www.tubecad.com/november99/page3.html

 According to the article, the impedance of a capacitive load decreases as frequency rises, and subsequently, more output current is needed. As far as how much music actually contains 20kHz content, I couldn't say.

 It looks like the author uses 500V peak-to-peak (around 176V rms) as the basis for his calculations. I don't know if that would be sufficient to reach 120dB peaks with a 100dB / 100V rms sensitivity. Someone more knowledgeable can probably do the math, I can't seem to grasp logarithmic units of measurement.
   
   
  Quote: 





> Has anyone ever measured different 'stat amps different real loads attached to see how they compare?


 
   
  That's exactly what I would be interested in seeing.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





tyre said:


> http://www.tubecad.com/november99/page3.html
> 
> According to the article, the impedance of a capacitive load decreases as frequency rises, and subsequently, more output current is needed. As far as how much music actually contains 20kHz content, I couldn't say.
> 
> It looks like the author uses 500V peak-to-peak (around 176V rms) as the basis for his calculations. I don't know if that would be sufficient to reach 120dB peaks with a 100dB / 100V rms sensitivity. Someone more knowledgeable can probably do the math, I can't seem to grasp logarithmic units of measurement.


 

 Music with stuff up to 20kHz isn't uncommon or anything but I am unsure as to how important it actually is.
   
  If I did the math right 176VRMS should be about 105dB SPL for a 'phone with 100dB/100VRMS sensitivity.


----------



## jcx

average power bandwidth estimates for recorded music are only 3-5 kHz, doesn't mean you want to skimp on high frequency for transients, but slew limiting distortion isn't the most audible
   
  popular vocal mics may have only ~15 kHz fc, 20-25 kHz isn't unusual for small condensers used in close micing, the Earthworks 50 kHz is pretty rare for a recording mic
   
   
  the audiophile's swearing by vinyl aren't getting more than that ~ 5kHz power bandwidth in the recorded music - the needle jumps in the groove or cuts its own track if the tracking force were high enough


----------



## spritzer

This is a fun read even though it is all in Japanese:
   
  http://www7b.biglobe.ne.jp/~konton/STAX%20Drive%20Amp.htm
   
  Calculations of power needed etc.


----------



## Amarphael

So what does the future of high voltage transistors holds in store for our exclusive needs? any other sources than the all but gone CRT TVs?


----------



## livewire

For the stuff that is still in production, mainstream sellers such as Mouser, Newark, Allied, Digikey, etc.
   
  For the "unobtanium", old stock resellers such as B&D, various audio electronics userboards, or roll the dice - there's always ebay...
  Ya takes your chances, lot of fake stuff popping up in the market as of late.
  NTE - ECG also markets many replacement transistors of similar design, one would need to compare specs before using. 
   
  Thanks to KG and others, IXYS mosfets are some of the newer stuff that is making inroads to HV stat CCS and PSU designs.
   
  FWIW, there are some new production low voltage signal input dual fets being made by LIS.
  Only recently, this part's analogue was only available as old stock Hitachi sand.
  Unfortunately, the complimentary fets are currently not being produced.
  Too bad, as these are critical parts for the source input end of some amps, and are very hard to find.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Turns out that ROHM is making some high voltage surface mount transistors rated at 600 volts
  and they sound really nice for the driver and translation stages. They are surface mount however
  and i'll be making a whole bunch of surface mount to to126 converters to handle this problem.
  They are used in the telephone industry, so i don't see them going away any time soon.
  ixys does make output fets that run at 1200 volts, and they also sound nice but are a bit
  hard to drive. The 2sc4686 non A version is still in production, and is good for 1000 volts.
  There will always be ways to make stacker amps with slighly lower voltage parts.
  You just have to get creative.
   
  One of these days linear systems may actually stop lying to people and sell the p-channel
  input fet parts.  Until that day, THAT corp makes a very nice fully complementary bipolar
  part (like the old motorola part that krell used in the past)


----------



## DaveBSC

It's here!


----------



## Maxvla

So I've always been curious... on Stax amps that only have 1 output bias.. why do they always have 2 headphone sockets? Seems like a waste of money in most cases.


----------



## spekkio

It may be for one to A/B phones quickly and easily. Also, sharing music with a friend. If I don't recall wrongly the way the Stax systems are run, it doesn't hurt the output stage much to include multiple outputs.


----------



## El_Doug

Some of us have friends 
  
  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> So I've always been curious... on Stax amps that only have 1 output bias.. why do they always have 2 headphone sockets? Seems like a waste of money in most cases.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> It's here!


 

 Hot damn, boy! Those panels look amazing. Enjoy!


----------



## n3rdling

Congrats, Dave.  How do you like the O2s from it compared to your old amp (717?) ?  You should go to the SoCal meet this summer


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Congrats, Dave.  How do you like the O2s from it compared to your old amp (717?) ?  You should go to the SoCal meet this summer


 

 Thanks. Don't know yet, I'm doing a test run with nothing connected right now to make sure it's working as it should. I'll fire it up with the O2s in the morning. SoCal is a little bit far, the other side of the country in fact. I'm in NY.


----------



## n3rdling

Oops, for some reason I thought you lived in SoCal heh.  Btw, is there any reason you didn't add RCA input or an extra output?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Oops, for some reason I thought you lived in SoCal heh.  Btw, is there any reason you didn't add RCA input or an extra output?


 

 The amp is balanced, and my source has a balanced output, so I didn't really see a need for RCA jacks. Making it XLR only also allowed for shorter signal paths, and removed the need for any sort of switch which probably wouldn't be sonically transparent. I only have my O2 Mk1, so there wasn't really any need for another output either. I also originally planned on using hyper expensive VH OCC silver to the headphone socket, and a second socket would've added a lot more cost on that front. The VH ended up not liking 580V, so it now has Furutech OCC copper to the socket.


----------



## kevin gilmore

really good rca to xlr adapters available at mouser for about $5 each.
  Much better way to do it.  That way, you can't hook up both at the same
  time and cause trouble.


----------



## spritzer

4PDT ON-ON switch takes care of the idiot factor.  Common ground but that's not a big deal. 
   
  On the subject of built to order KGSSHV's, there are people out there offering amps without having the slightest clue what they are doing.  These amps are not only dangerous to the end user but they will also not work correctly compared to a properly built unit.  Now this is a design released to the public so there is nothing we can do about it so I implore people to be careful who they are dealing with and get high resolution pictures of the amps before shipping.


----------



## sachu

pretty looking amp there Dave. Got a pic of the internals?
   
  Curious as to why the builder chose to have inputs on either side of the AC input, apart from the symmetrical aesthetic factor, which is sort of moot considering that it is on the rear panel.
   
  Are you running dual mono config using dual power supply boards and transformers?.
   
  What is the output bias is your amp running by the way? I remember the standard being 5mA as posted by KG on some thread. 
   
  Tell me that isn't so with your amp, especially with the offboard sinks. I'd be running close to 18-20mA if I had the right spec sinks.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sachu said:


> pretty looking amp there Dave. Got a pic of the internals?
> 
> Curious as to why the builder chose to have inputs on either side of the AC input, apart from the symmetrical aesthetic factor, which is sort of moot considering that it is on the rear panel.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks. I came up with the front panel design as a sort of homage to the Krell MRA. Not sure if anybody picked up on that. The amp boards are side mounted with the transformer in the rear middle of the case, which I think is why he opted to configure the back panel that way. I'm not sure what the output bias is, I can ask.


----------



## sachu

Very nice. 
   
  Must confess, the krell reference i do not see in the front panel. 
   
  Nonetheless, its a great design you came up with.  Best of the KGSSHV panel designs i have seen thus far.
   
  Is that a Modushop chassis?
   
  And a AMB e24 board i see next to the transformer and a relay on the other side ?
   
  Looks like a horio build to me.  
   
  How are you liking the amp by the way?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> 4PDT ON-ON switch takes care of the idiot factor.  Common ground but that's not a big deal.


 
   
  Yeah, but wiring that thing up is a PITA. Did that on one build , will never do that again. I like to keep it simple these days, single set of inputs (RCA or balanced) and maybe a loop out.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sachu said:


> How are you liking the amp by the way?


 

 It's superb, way better than my SRM-717. Slightly disappointing that I wasn't able to use the VH silver on the headphone socket, but what can you do. At least all of the signal wiring is still VH silver/airlok. The Khozmo SA rocks, the 1dB steps are perfect. I've read in some places that the through hole Khozmos are supposedly very stiff, but I'm not sure what everyone is on about, my sample at least turns extremely easily.
   
  Next step is a new fuse. I'll probably order a bunch, the Furutech, Audio-Magic, and a couple of the different Hifi Tuning models and see what sounds best.


----------



## sachu

I prefer copper myself. I just end up using the standard PTFE, teflon coated Belden SPC wire..
   
  I was supposed to at one point go pick up some hook up wire Ken from ALO AUdio was hand weaving for this purpose. Might get around to that some day
   
  For whatever reason, good silver cables are harder to come by than copper cables. The really good silver cables cost way too much money.
   
  I like the switchcraft XLRs you chose for your amp.
   
  I wanted to use them in my amp too, but ended up sticking to the Neutriks.  THose switchcrafts do look mighty fine 
   
   
  And agreed on the Khozmo SA. I built one other stat amp recently that was identical to mine save for the fact it used the Khozmo as against the TKD i have in mine. This was the only difference between the two amps so it was a rare opportunity to compare two high quality volume quad gang control devices. The Khozmo stepped attenuator sounded a tad better in detail retrieval compared to the TKD. THe TKD did have a noticeably warmer sound which i gravitated towards. Very impressed with the Khozmo however. If not for the fact i was able to get arnaud to source me the TKD, i would have gone for the Khozmo. Smooth operation as well.


----------



## DaveBSC

I agree with you on good silver v. good copper. Very high quality OCC copper can be had for a couple of bucks a foot (Neotech, Furutech, etc). The VH silver/airlok is among the best silver hookup wire that's readily available, but it's not cheap by any stretch. The 18AWG I ordered for the headphone socket was $25/ft and I ended up not using any of it. Fortunately I didn't buy that much of it. I'll probably offer what I have in the cable sale forums.
   
  The XLR jacks aren't Switchcraft, they are Furutech FP-682F rhodium over copper. The IEC inlet is a Furutech FI-09. The Khozmo is the Takmans REX + Vishay Z-foil version. When I bought it the Vishay PTF version was $650... I think, and I didn't want to spend quite that much. I think a $500 volume control is more than plenty. I briefly considered an RK50, but when I was looking getting one for less than like $900 wasn't much of a possibility, and the Khozmo is of course still way more accurate in terms of balance for what it's worth.


----------



## akwok

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> 4PDT ON-ON switch takes care of the idiot factor.  Common ground but that's not a big deal.
> 
> *On the subject of built to order KGSSHV's, there are people out there offering amps without having the slightest clue what they are doing.  These amps are not only dangerous to the end user but they will also not work correctly compared to a properly built unit.  Now this is a design released to the public so there is nothing we can do about it so I implore people to be careful who they are dealing with and get high resolution pictures of the amps before shipping. *


 

 These people also seem to be charging ridiculous amounts of money for shoddily built KGSSHVs -- somewhere north of $3800.  I doubt even a KGSSHV built by reputable companies like HeadAmp would require *that* much money.


----------



## Radio_head

Out of curiosity who _would _be a competent builder?
   
  Edit - come to think of it this question is for PM's only.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I agree with you on good silver v. good copper. Very high quality OCC copper can be had for a couple of bucks a foot (Neotech, Furutech, etc). The VH silver/airlok is among the best silver hookup wire that's readily available, but it's not cheap by any stretch. The 18AWG I ordered for the headphone socket was $25/ft and I ended up not using any of it. Fortunately I didn't buy that much of it. I'll probably offer what I have in the cable sale forums.
> 
> The XLR jacks aren't Switchcraft, they are Furutech FP-682F rhodium over copper. The IEC inlet is a Furutech FI-09. The Khozmo is the Takmans REX + Vishay Z-foil version. When I bought it the Vishay PTF version was $650... I think, and I didn't want to spend quite that much. I think a $500 volume control is more than plenty. I briefly considered an RK50, but when I was looking getting one for less than like $900 wasn't much of a possibility, and the Khozmo is of course still way more accurate in terms of balance for what it's worth.


 


   
  ah yes.. i remember seeing those as well on pcx when i was shopping around. THey are sweet!
  THe Khozmo i heard used Caddocks. I can't believe the Khozmo is 650$??! I shopped around for pots as well and considered the Penny and giles at about 350 a pop, but needed to order two at a time. THe RK50, closest i found was 750$. I think i got a heck of a deal with the TKD, just 190$ in comparison shipped!
  If i can get someone to go in with me on an order of the P&G i would do it cause i have heard very very good things about their pots. Supposed to be very different from anything else out there, albeit their matching specs aren't that great for their price, or just average at best.
  
  Quote: 





akwok said:


> These people also seem to be charging ridiculous amounts of money for shoddily built KGSSHVs -- somewhere north of $3800.  I doubt even a KGSSHV built by reputable companies like HeadAmp would require *that* much money.


 

 Well, one built by a proper manufacturer would be north of 4k if they are to do a business. Besides, HV is nothing to snort at. I would want to buy it from an established manufacturer rather than a two bit DIYer regardless of how proficient the person might be at it. A business has to account for their time, warranties, repairs, basically stand behind their product and are hopefully not fly by night operators which DIYers can be. So best case is you all pressure headamp, and they manufacture it. 
   
  To give you an anecdote, i received a PM on diyaudio.com last week out of the blue that somoene bought the first ever headphone amp i had built, a CK2III from a HFier recently  and that he received it with some ground noise problems. This amp was built back in early 2008 and sold by me in early 2009. I never thought i would hear about that amplifier ever again, but lo and behold, now i am having to help this guy debug the issue (who knows how many previous owners it has had and what they did to it), which i am trying to, but gives you an idea of what sort of problems one could run into in the DIY world. 
  I could very well say eff you and not reply to the chap as it is no longer my problem nor did i give any assurances or lifetime of operation.
  Manufacturers worth their salt will have your back in such eventualities. You end up paying part of the premium for this peace of mind and partly cause they are after all trying to earn their coin. 
   
  If i were to make an educated guess, a KGSSHV like the one Dave just displayed at most cost him 1600-1800$ in parts. Any respectable person who values their time will ask for twice that amount if not more. 
  
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Out of curiosity who _would _be a competent builder?
> 
> Edit - come to think of it this question is for PM's only.


 

 This is against the forum rules if they are not a MOT. Soliciting commission work even via PM can get one at the very least, temporarily banned. I would echo spritzer's advice, do make sure IF one of you go down this path that you validate the builder's credentials before entrusting him with making an amp that could be potentially dangerous if not done right to the user.


----------



## Radio_head

Solicitation is the act of offering goods or services or asking for goods and services from someone.  Not sure that asking if anyone has suggestions of someone else who has goods/services (who may or may not be a forum member) falls under the purview of solicitation.  If so I retract my statement.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Solicitation is the act of offering goods or services or asking for goods and services from someone.  Not sure that asking if anyone has suggestions of someone else who has goods/services (who may or may not be a forum member) falls under the purview of solicitation.  If so I retract my statement.


 


  I know what it means. Read my response once again. I meant if anyone responded to your post offering their services, that would amount to solicitation. Easisest way to bypass this would be to build amps and post it on ebay or audiogon. Just saying. I have nothing against those who want to build for profit. I did it myself in the past. And i can understand if someone wants to charge 4k for a KGSSHV build. Or if you can get someone to trade an 009 for a KGSSHV, more power to you.
   
  Words of 'advice' by all and sundry (including yours truly) can be said till the tide is nigh but in the end, onus is on both buyer and seller/builder on what ends up getting exchanged based on what they deem is fair for both parties. Not that this wasn't obvious already. 
   
  Oh, and for those wondering about the P&G, the price quoted to me a few months ago was 365$ a pop. 10k max, but they can do 20k versions. Minimum order quantity is 2. lead time is a minimum of 2 months.


----------



## Hennyo

I'm pretty sure Dave's build cost in the neighborhood of $2350 or so to build. Mine cost 1950 and there seem to be a few others out there that are in the same neighborhood. A quality one is in the neighborhood 1850 to 1950 in parts. It can get a little more costly if you include the additional bells and whistles..
   
  I think Dave spent a little more on his wiring. 
   
  Here's are some of mine, since it hasn't been posted yet.
   



   



   



   
  Edit: Hi Sachhu. I did not want to divulge costs of other people's product's, "Parts cost was $2400-ish, somewhere around there." I'm pretty sure those who have built them know what they've spent.
   
  There are a couple others who have spent around two thousand on theirs as well. It's not a cheap project...


----------



## sachu

If you say so. I don't know what those Khozmo pots o for, but barring the pot, even with the custom panels, with that par metal chassis, the amp you posted would not have cost more than 900-1000$ tops. Excluding the pot cost of course. Just being honest here. ANd i have seen the BOM for the KGSSHV, including quote for the SUMR, boards, devices, etc. I know this cause i did sign up for boards at one point and vetted the project and costs involved out thoroughly. Dave's build is going to be about 500$ more expensive considering moduship chassis, shipping involved with that and the larger sized panels. 

Just being honest about it.

I know my way around DIY amps well enough after having built over 50 to know what parts costs can be.

Anyways enjoy those amps  

I wish i just had that SR009 so damn jealous!


----------



## Frur

Quote: 





hennyo said:


> I'm pretty sure Dave's build cost in the neighborhood of $2350 or so to build. Mine cost 1950 and there seem to be a few others out there that are in the same neighborhood. A quality one is in the neighborhood 1850 to 1950 in parts. It can get a little more costly if you include the additional bells and whistles..
> 
> I think Dave spent a little more on his wiring.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Hey cool dude, post more pics of the inside


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hennyo said:


> I'm pretty sure Dave's build cost in the neighborhood of $2350 or so to build. Mine cost 1950 and there seem to be a few others out there that are in the same neighborhood. A quality one is in the neighborhood 1850 to 1950 in parts. It can get a little more costly if you include the additional bells and whistles..
> 
> I think Dave spent a little more on his wiring.


 
   
  It was much closer to that at least than $1600-1800. My build has $900 or so worth of Furutech connectors, very high-end hookup wire, and the SA. If one opted for more basic connectors, wiring, and a Goldpoint, TKD, etc. you could chop $600 out of that.


----------



## akwok

Quote:


sachu said:


> Well, one built by a proper manufacturer would be north of 4k if they are to do a business. Besides, HV is nothing to snort at. I would want to buy it from an established manufacturer rather than a two bit DIYer regardless of how proficient the person might be at it. A business has to account for their time, warranties, repairs, basically stand behind their product and are hopefully not fly by night operators which DIYers can be. So best case is you all pressure headamp, and they manufacture it.


 
   
  Headamp's original KGSS sold for only around $2500 until mid last year afaik.


----------



## Tilpo

Just read the 50 most recent pages of this thread. Almost took me an entire afternoon! 

I think I want to buy a T50RP first, and mess around for some time with that after I have finally finished my Beta22. 

After that I will have a four month holiday due to the transition from high school to university. I will have plenty of time to do all sorts of jobs, so with a bit of effort I should be able to set aside a $1000 or so to get a Stax rig! 
I was thinking of building an amp and pairing it with a Lambda 507. Do you think that is doable within the budget of $1000, or do I have to buy an mid-fi Stax amp?


----------



## Maxvla

I'm guessing you are saying $1000 for the amp alone since the 507 itself is about that much. There are DIY designs you can do for that price, like the eXStatA. If you stretch your budget a bit, a KGSS or KGSSHV can be done with non-premium parts.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





frur said:


> Hey cool dude, post more pics of the inside


 

 Indeed. I would like to see close-ups of the scorch marks under the resistors on the power supply.


----------



## koonhua90

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Just read the 50 most recent pages of this thread. Almost took me an entire afternoon!
> I think I want to buy a T50RP first, and mess around for some time with that after I have finally finished my Beta22.
> After that I will have a four month holiday due to the transition from high school to university. I will have plenty of time to do all sorts of jobs, so with a bit of effort I should be able to set aside a $1000 or so to get a Stax rig!
> I was thinking of building an amp and pairing it with a Lambda 507. Do you think that is doable within the budget of $1000, or do I have to buy an mid-fi Stax amp?


 

 A 507 would cost about half of your budget, assuming you get it used. From previous few post, you can know the cost of building KGSSHV from those who built it.
   
  So, maybe you will need more than your budget allows. Cheaper alternative would be to get those transformer box or Stax brand amp. Sometimes they pop up on Headfi, Audiogon or Ebay. This is a good search, taken from Ken Rockwell website: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=stax+%28SR%2C+SRA%2C+SRD%2C+SRM%2C+headphone%2C+headphones%2C+energizer%2C+ear%2C+earspeaker%2C+earspeakers%2C+electrostatic%2C+driver%2C+lambda%2C+omega%29&_sacat=0&_sop=10&_odkw=stax+%28SR%2C+SRA%2C+SRD%2C+SRM%2C+headphone%2C+headphones%2C+energizer%2C+ear%2C+earspeaker%2C+earspeakers%2C+electrostatic%2C+driver%2C+lambda%2C+omega%29&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Just read the 50 most recent pages of this thread. Almost took me an entire afternoon!
> I think I want to buy a T50RP first, and mess around for some time with that after I have finally finished my Beta22.
> After that I will have a four month holiday due to the transition from high school to university. I will have plenty of time to do all sorts of jobs, so with a bit of effort I should be able to set aside a $1000 or so to get a Stax rig!
> I was thinking of building an amp and pairing it with a Lambda 507. Do you think that is doable within the budget of $1000, or do I have to buy an mid-fi Stax amp?


 


  If your β22 has speaker taps, getting a transformer like SRD7 or the Woo unit seems to be the most reasonable way to go. Lambdas are not that demanding to drive after all unlike the O2 comparatively.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





akwok said:


> Quote:
> 
> Headamp's original KGSS sold for only around $2500 until mid last year afaik.


 

 Justin has said before that a Headamp KGSSHV would cost essentially what the BHSE does, minus the cost of the tubes. That's I think at least partially why he was resistant to doing one at all.


----------



## DarknightDK

Sorry if I had missed this but what's the difference between the KGSS and KGSSHV?


----------



## El_Doug

moar volts! 
  
  Quote: 





darknightdk said:


> Sorry if I had missed this but what's the difference between the KGSS and KGSSHV?


----------



## kevin gilmore

1400 VPSS --> 2000 VPSS
  and the current source in the 3rd stage.
  And a whole bunch of newer better parts.
  And a very tightly regulated power supply.


----------



## DarknightDK

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> 1400 VPSS --> 2000 VPSS
> and the current source in the 3rd stage.
> And a whole bunch of newer better parts.
> And a very tightly regulated power supply.


 







 That's awesome!


----------



## Tilpo

k3ct said:


> If your β22 has speaker taps, getting a transformer like SRD7 or the Woo unit seems to be the most reasonable way to go. Lambdas are not that demanding to drive after all unlike the O2 comparatively.




It doesn't. I would be able to put them in, but I wonder whether it requires balanced connection, since I built my Beta22 to have 2 channels, and not 4.


----------



## K3cT

No need for that. I installed them in mine and it's a 3-channel version (only the L and R channels are used for the speaker taps).


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Oh, and for those wondering about the P&G, the price quoted to me a few months ago was 365$ a pop. 10k max, but they can do 20k versions. Minimum order quantity is 2. lead time is a minimum of 2 months.


 


 That must be for the 2-ch version? I have heard more like around $500 for a quad gang.
   
  Sort of wish I bought 2 of the quad RK50 for $565


----------



## sachu

No deepak. It is for the 4 channel version.
   
  Call, Manco, their US distributor. THeir 2 month lead is what threw me off.


----------



## Tilpo

k3ct said:


> No need for that. I installed them in mine and it's a 3-channel version (only the L and R channels are used for the speaker taps).



And you can drive a lambda series headphone from that (with the needed transformer, of course)? 

If that is the case, then getting a Stax rig becomes drastically more realistic.


----------



## tyre

Nevermind.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





k3ct said:


> If your β22 has speaker taps, getting a transformer like SRD7 or the Woo unit seems to be the most reasonable way to go. Lambdas are not that demanding to drive after all unlike the O2 comparatively.


 


  Hmmm, now THERE'S an idea.  The thing that limits the B22's power (like, for speakers) is heat dissipation, if I remember correctly.  So by "having speaker taps" I assume you mean larger heat sinks as well as binding posts.
   
  As an alternative to a B22, there are a good many very good sounding low-ish power Class-A speaker amps available used for under $500 -  for example, Monarchy SM-70, N.E.W. A20, and numerous DIY Nelson Pass builds whose builders move on for some reason and sell their amps. There's also the Class-A hybrid MOSFET- EL34 tube power amp from AMC, the CVT-2030.  I've used a CVT2030, an SM70, N.E.W. A20, and a DIY  First Watt F3 clone (power JFET) all to good effect.  I rather like the CVT-2030, you get the midrange wonders of the EL34 but with a more transparent treble from the MOSFET drivers than some all-tube amps I've tried.  Any of these amps typically sell on the used market for $500 or less.  All you need is a 50K pot (or stepped attenuator if you want to get fancy) between DAC and the power amp for a level control, assuming your DAC has a reasonably low output impedance.
   
  Please note that the Monarchy SM-70 is class A;  the SM-70 *PRO* and SM-70 *PRO MK II* are NOT class A, they are class AB.  Many people think the SM-70 PRO series are class A, and represent them as such when listing them for sale, but a proper Google search will show you that the "PRO" series are not class A.  The "Pro" series are good sounding amps, but I just like class A designs, especially for headphone use where not very much power is needed.


----------



## Tilpo

milosz said:


> Hmmm, now THERE'S an idea.  The thing that limits the B22's power (like, for speakers) is heat dissipation, if I remember correctly.  So by "having speaker taps" I assume you mean larger heat sinks as well as binding posts.
> 
> As an alternative to a B22, there are a good many very good sounding low-ish power Class-A speaker amps available used for under $500 -  for example, Monarchy SM-70, N.E.W. A20, and numerous DIY Nelson Pass builds whose builders move on for some reason and sell their amps. There's also the Class-A hybrid MOSFET- EL34 tube power amp from AMC, the CVT-2030.  I've used a CVT2030, an SM70, N.E.W. A20, and a DIY  First Watt F3 clone (power JFET) all to good effect.  I rather like the CVT-2030, you get the midrange wonders of the EL34 but with a more transparent treble from the MOSFET drivers than some all-tube amps I've tried.  Any of these amps typically sell on the used market for $500 or less.  All you need is a 50K pot (or stepped attenuator if you want to get fancy) between DAC and the power amp for a level control, assuming your DAC has a reasonably low output impedance.
> 
> Please note that the Monarchy SM-70 is class A;  the SM-70 *PRO* and SM-70 *PRO MK II* are NOT class A, they are class AB.  Many people think the SM-70 PRO series are class A, and represent them as such when listing them for sale, but a proper Google search will show you that the "PRO" series are not class A.  The "Pro" series are good sounding amps, but I just like class A designs, especially for headphone use where not very much power is needed.



If the specs on STAX' website are correct, the 507 doesn't need that much power. The Beta22 can deliver 18 watts into 8 ohms.
If the transformer would be fairly efficient (>50%) it should certainly be possible to supply the 100Vrms at 145kOhm to reach 100dB. This equates to 0.08W, so to reach 115dB you would need 2.2W, which is certainly within the Beta22's possibility.

I know this is simplifying things, but I do think that the Beta22 should be able to drive them to decent loudness. Of course, I will ask people who have tried this first before doing such a large purchase. (I need to acquire a large amount of currency before I can in any case)

And if you're talking about getting a $500 amp and then a $500 transformer on top of that, I could just as well get an electrostat amplifier in the first case. 


Edit: nevermind. I just saw an SRD-7 on eBay for about $200 shipped. That's actually quite affordable, and if it doesn't work well enough with the Beta22 I also have a vintage amp with plenty of power. Might not sound as good, but it would definitely suffice until I would get something better. 

Won't be until many a month before I'm going to purchase anything in any case.


----------



## Beefy

I used an M3 to power some SR-Lambda (normal bias) through a SRD7-SB to near deafening levels. A B22 is substantially more powerful, and would be able to handle it without breaking a sweat.


----------



## Tilpo

beefy said:


> I used an M3 to power some SR-Lambda (normal bias) through a SRD7-SB to near deafening levels. A B22 is substantially more powerful, and would be able to handle it without breaking a sweat.




Thank you for this clarification. I guess I'll order some speaker tabs and then I'll save up to get a 507.

At what price would you consider them a good deal? Most of the stuff I have seen up until now is $900 - $1000 which is still a bit on the expensive side.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Thank you for this clarification. I guess I'll order some speaker tabs and then I'll save up to get a 507.
> At what price would you consider them a good deal? Most of the stuff I have seen up until now is $900 - $1000 which is still a bit on the expensive side.


 

 Considering this will be your first Stax, why not shoot a bit lower and get some second hand SR-202 first?
   
  It will give you a chance to make sure you are happy with the B22/transformer for driving them, and gives you plenty of scope for future upgrades.
   
  Also, you might need to install a Zobel network on the speaker outputs. It helps keep the amp stable into an inductive load. Check AMB's website for details.


----------



## Tilpo

beefy said:


> Considering this will be your first Stax, why not shoot a bit lower and get some second hand SR-202 first?
> 
> It will give you a chance to make sure you are happy with the B22/transformer for driving them, and gives you plenty of scope for future upgrades.
> 
> Also, you might need to install a Zobel network on the speaker outputs. It helps keep the amp stable into an inductive load. Check AMB's website for details.



I'm aware of the Zobel network. And I will order the required parts along with the taps. 

I could maybe get a second hand SR-407 in that case. I do want it to be an upgrade coming from my HD 650, and not a side grade. Not that I think the SR-202 are 'bad', I simply feel I want to treat myself to a significant upgrade and going the Stax route seemed more fun than e.g. getting an HE-500.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> I'm aware of the Zobel network. And I will order the required parts along with the taps.
> I could maybe get a second hand SR-407 in that case. I do want it to be an upgrade coming from my HD 650, and not a side grade. Not that I think the SR-202 are 'bad', I simply feel I want to treat myself to a significant upgrade and going the Stax route seemed more fun than e.g. getting an HE-500.


 

 From my own perspective, as the owner of both the HD-650 and a 25yr old set SR-Lambda...... you *really* don't need to go into the expensive Stax models in order to beat down dynamic headphones.
   
  Besides, why rush? You're a young bloke, be patient, there is plenty of time.


----------



## Sil3nce

tilpo said:


> I'm aware of the Zobel network. And I will order the required parts along with the taps.
> I could maybe get a second hand SR-407 in that case. I do want it to be an upgrade coming from my HD 650, and not a side grade. Not that I think the SR-202 are 'bad', I simply feel I want to treat myself to a significant upgrade and going the Stax route seemed more fun than e.g. getting an HE-500.




I find the sr202 to be more of a sidegrade than a downgrade than the 404/407. In fact, I rather prefer the sig of 202s.


----------



## Sil3nce

beefy said:


> Considering this will be your first Stax, why not shoot a bit lower and get some second hand SR-202 first?
> 
> It will give you a chance to make sure you are happy with the B22/transformer for driving them, and gives you plenty of scope for future upgrades.
> 
> Also, you might need to install a Zobel network on the speaker outputs. It helps keep the amp stable into an inductive load. Check AMB's website for details.




How much do you think a second-hand sr202 should sell for? Just curious.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





sil3nce said:


> How much do you think a second-hand sr202 should sell for? Just curious.


 

 NFI.


----------



## Maxvla

Well considering they are about $400 new maybe $300-350. SR207 that is. I also consider the 202 equal technically but slight preference for 202's signature compared to the 404. I also consider the 202 an upgrade as a whole compared to the HD650. Tonally they are more similar to the HD600 but clearer and faster.


----------



## Sil3nce

beefy said:


> NFI.




mhm, lol'ed at urban dictionary's definition.


----------



## Sil3nce

Does anyone alive know where I can obtain a sr-003? Preferably not over 200.
I can't believe I didn't have the foresight to snatch one of these up earlier last year.
​


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Thank you for this clarification. I guess I'll order some speaker tabs and then I'll save up to get a 507.
> At what price would you consider them a good deal? Most of the stuff I have seen up until now is $900 - $1000 which is still a bit on the expensive side.


 
   
   
  Quote: 





beefy said:


> Considering this will be your first Stax, why not shoot a bit lower and get some second hand SR-202 first?
> 
> It will give you a chance to make sure you are happy with the B22/transformer for driving them, and gives you plenty of scope for future upgrades.
> 
> Also, you might need to install a Zobel network on the speaker outputs. It helps keep the amp stable into an inductive load. Check AMB's website for details.


 


   
  I can second Beefy's suggestion wholeheartedly. I haven't heard the newer x07 Lambda models yet but I am fairly sure that my favorite Lambda from what I've heard is the old Lambda Normal followed closely by the SR-202. The thing is the differences between varying Lambda models are relatively small (generally you get better bass and midrange as you go up) and some of the higher-end models including the previous TOTL 404LE have that infamous upper-midrange etch so choosing the right Lambda can be a bit tricky honestly.


----------



## n3rdling

Yup, I like the older Lambdas more than the newer models.


----------



## Maxvla

Specifically the 202 vs 207, 303 vs 307, etc or are you talking about SR-Lambda vs 202/207 time periods?


----------



## Tilpo

Hmm interesting. Seems like I don't even need to save up that at all.

I do need to finish my Beta22 first, on the other hand. Many thanks for the feedback!


----------



## milosz

I have a Beta 22 and an SRD-7pro I'll give my Lambda Pro Signature's a go with the Beta; I'll have to rig up some binding posts and add the Zobel networks, but that's pretty easy. 
   
  I somehow can't picture the Beta being able to drive the Stax phones, but this is probably just a mindset I've got left over from the early 1970's when I had a pair of Koss ESP-9's, they needed an amp of at least 50 watts per channel, and this has set my expectations for what it takes to drive an electrostatic headphone through a transformer. I used an H-K Citation 12 with my ESP-9's, and you could drive it to clipping without too much effort on the 9's.   60 watts / channel.  But of course the ESP-9's / E9 energizer are a totally different setup than Stax Lambda / SRD-7.
   
  H-K Citation 12, SAE XXX preamp, AR XA turntable, ADC XLM & Sure V15-III cartridges, Akai GX-365 open reel tape deck, Dynaco FM-5 tuner.... ESP-9's....  *1971!*   LOL- where did 41 years go?  Where did _MY HAIR_ go?


----------



## Tilpo

milosz said:


> I have a Beta 22 and an SRD-7pro I'll give my Lambda Pro Signature's a go with the Beta; I'll have to rig up some binding posts and add the Zobel networks, but that's pretty easy.
> 
> I somehow can't picture the Beta being able to drive the Stax phones, but this is probably just a mindset I've got left over from the early 1970's when I had a pair of Koss ESP-9's, they needed an amp of at least 50 watts per channel, and this has set my expectations for what it takes to drive an electrostatic headphone through a transformer. I used an H-K Citation 12 with my ESP-9's, and you could drive it to clipping without too much effort on the 9's.   60 watts / channel.  But of course the ESP-9's / E9 energizer are a totally different setup than Stax Lambda / SRD-7.
> 
> H-K Citation 12, SAE XXX preamp, AR XA turntable, ADC XLM & Sure V15-III cartridges, Akai GX-365 open reel tape deck, Dynaco FM-5 tuner.... ESP-9's....  *1971!*   LOL- where did 41 years go?  Where did _MY HAIR_ go?




Were did all the good music go?

I want early 70's progressive rock to be revived.


----------



## sillysally

Beware when buying used Stax headphones, the coating material on the diaphragm goes bad with age, and probably other things also.


----------



## jaycalgary

Does the diaphragms on Stax headphones even have a coating like the Quad esl57 etc do?


----------



## El_Doug

if they didn't have a coating, they wouldnt be able to hold a charge  
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Does the diaphragms on Stax headphones even have a coating like the Quad esl57 etc do?


----------



## Headdie

I'd like to know more about this suggestion... Which solution ? How do you apply it ? I assume you need a multimeter to test it... Also, is it really feasible to open the e-cell without breaking it ?
   
  MG,
   
  Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Hi MDR30,
> 
> It is actually the coating material on the diaphragm that is to blame for.  The coating does deteriorate through time and change of environment.  If you have nothing to lose, you might want to try to recoat diaphragm with something that will make it somewhat conductive.  There are many materials that can be used.  But, the easiest and very effective material that I have found to work great is a permanent antistatic solution.  It's water base solution, and is very easy to apply.  All you need is a very, tiny drop of it and you can coat the whole diaphragm.  After coating, you want to have a surface resistance of at least 10 x 10^6 ohm per square.
> 
> Wachara C.


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Headdie,
   
  I'm not sure if you will be able to open up some drivers without destroying the diaphragms.  But, if you can do it, it is really possible to recoat the diaphragm using some conductive materials.  For me, I use an antistatic solution and it works great.  If you have a testing instrument, it's good to give it a measure, but you really don't have to.  Just coat it, put it back together and enjoy.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Wachara C.


----------



## MohawkUS

Hey, I'm new to electrostats as in that I've never heard one. I'm thinking of picking up an SR-5NB gold and SRD6/SB amp for $340, is this a good deal or should I pass on it? I listen to mainly metal, but I like my music smooth and fast rather than bassy and impactful so I'm thinking this STAX might be a good starting point for me. I've got a.. working Sherwood S-7210A receiver right now, but I'll be upgrading it sooner or later as the phono stage has a hum to it. I don't really like my Burson amp so I'll probably sell that and get a DAC to run through the receiver.


----------



## Headdie

Wachara,
   
  Wich antistatic solution ? Or what kind of...
  How do you apply it : you take a q-tips and paint it all over on both sides ? Then you let it dry...
   
  Tks,


----------



## chinsettawong

Hi Headdie,
   
  I use Staticide 6300.  Other stuffs like computer screen cleaner (with antistatic) also works quite well.  You put a very small amount on the diaphragm and rub the whole surface with it.  You need only to coat one side of the diaphragm which is the side that is contacted with the charge ring.
   
  If you want to learn more about making electrostatic headphones yourself, you can look at my other postings:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Hey, I'm new to electrostats as in that I've never heard one. I'm thinking of picking up an SR-5NB gold and SRD6/SB amp for $340, is this a good deal or should I pass on it? I listen to mainly metal, but I like my music smooth and fast rather than bassy and impactful so I'm thinking this STAX might be a good starting point for me. I've got a.. working Sherwood S-7210A receiver right now, but I'll be upgrading it sooner or later as the phono stage has a hum to it. I don't really like my Burson amp so I'll probably sell that and get a DAC to run through the receiver.


 

 I preferred my SR-5NB gold more than my APS V3 cabled Grado RS-1, so they could be worth that much, but I'd like to see them only charge you $275 - $300 for that rig.  The SR-5NB gold were noticeably better than the SR-5 and SR-3 that I owned before them.  I still have mine and will never sell them, nor my last set of SR-Lambda.


----------



## n3rdling

You could get a Lambda setup for that money...


----------



## raif

So after 10 short years on head-fi I finally moved into a stax rig.  I found a great condition SR-007BL from a really cool audiophile down in Los Angeles and picked up a SRM-323s.
   
  After about 45 minutes of bending the arc to get a decent seal, I would have to say that I am loving these cans.
   
  Question for people.  Is there any restrictions on the order in which you plug in your phones, power up the amp, power down, unplug, etc?  Thanks.


----------



## Maxvla

Grats on the purchase raif. I just picked up the same cans and my 323S is due in tomorrow. I just finished replacing the 10+ year old pads. (and the seller suggested they didn't need replacing...)


----------



## raif

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> (and the seller suggested they didn't need replacing...)


 

  I believe he was mistaken. 
   
   
  Hopefully it will all be worth it once you get to listen to them tomorrow.


----------



## Maxvla

I'm listening with a SRD-7 atm. The speaker amp it's tied to is pretty junky though, so yeah I'm hoping for a good bump in sound quality.


----------



## Michgelsen

The power up sequence does not really matter, at least on my SRM-717. There is no pop when you switch the amp on or off with the phones connected. I always leave the phones plugged in.
  However, at times when I connected the phones with the amp already on, a few times its outputs muted as some form of protection, just as they do when the amp gets too hot. Reconnecting the power cord resets that. It's a minor hassle. Often nothing happens though and you can just plug them in without problems.

  
  Quote: 





raif said:


> Question for people.  Is there any restrictions on the order in which you plug in your phones, power up the amp, power down, unplug, etc?  Thanks.


----------



## Frur

I am nearing completion on my KGSSHV and I am damn poud of it


----------



## K3cT

Ah, I wonder how much better will the HV be compared to the original version. 
   
  I have been (very) slowly gathering parts for the HV over the past 6 months but couldn't find the time to actually sit down and build the thing. No Omegas or 009 either to plug into it anyway...


----------



## Tilpo

frur said:


> I am nearing completion on my KGSSHV and I am damn poud of it




You should be. I am almost done with my Beta22 which makes me pretty proud already, but a KGSSHV is a far more difficult built (and costly).


----------



## El_Doug

They cost roughly the same (assuming bare-bones kgsshv, and a 4 channel b22)
  
  Quote: 





tilpo said:


> You should be. I am almost done with my Beta22 which makes me pretty proud already, but a KGSSHV is a far more difficult built (and costly).


----------



## Tilpo

el_doug said:


> They cost roughly the same (assuming bare-bones kgsshv, and a 4 channel b22)



I was talking about a 2-channel Beta22. Mine costs about $750, but I could have gone cheaper on the chassis.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Grats on the purchase raif. I just picked up the same cans and my 323S is due in tomorrow. I just finished replacing the 10+ year old pads. (and the seller suggested they didn't need replacing...)


 

 Wow, that looks horrible, lol. The pads on my MK1 look practically brand new, so I suspect the prior owner may have replaced the originals. It's no spring chicken, the serial is from before the switch to "SZ1" so I'm guessing they are at least nearing the 10 year old mark.


----------



## MohawkUS

Well, I won the SR-5NB. The auction ended at $385 for the headphones and transformer box. The headphones are mostly mint, and it's the newer model with the ribbon cable so I guess I didn't do too bad.  I know I could have gotten a lamba or higher end model for the price, but I'm looking for a good metal phone, I want the 'in your face' sound that the smaller, older stax supposedly have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280831013065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## Maxvla

davebsc said:


> Wow, that looks horrible, lol. The pads on my MK1 look practically brand new, so I suspect the prior owner may have replaced the originals. It's no spring chicken, the serial is from before the switch to "SZ1" so I'm guessing they are at least nearing the 10 year old mark.




70671 here.


----------



## firev1

Hi all, I'm pretty familiar with ordinary to drive cans and amps but Stax cans seem to be a whole different ball game to me. I'm considering to buy a entry level "world class" headphone like the HD650 or Q701 but getting some of the entry level Stax amps and cans seems to be another very good option to consider(have to save a bit more).
   
  What I look for in a headphone is a more neutralish sound for which to suit a wide range of music(Jpop, Progressive Rock, classical, jazz, oriental). I'm also planning for a better source(DACport LX, or ODAC) but my current source appears to be sufficient(specs wise). So how will something like the Stax 2170 be for me? 
   
  Lastly where is the best place to source from?


----------



## Tilpo

firev1 said:


> Hi all, I'm pretty familiar with ordinary to drive cans and amps but Stax cans seem to be a whole different ball game to me. I'm considering to buy a entry level "world class" headphone like the HD650 or Q701 but getting some of the entry level Stax amps and cans seems to be another very good option to consider(have to save a bit more).
> 
> What I look for in a headphone is a more neutralish sound for which to suit a wide range of music(Jpop, Progressive Rock, classical, jazz, oriental). I'm also planning for a better source(DACport LX, or ODAC) but my current source appears to be sufficient(specs wise). So how will something like the Stax 2170 be for me?
> 
> Lastly where is the best place to source from?




Since you already have an O2 it might be better not to go with Stax. If you do, then you need to buy an amp _and_ a headphone, whereas you current amp is good enough when you get an HD650 or Q701.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> 70671 here.


 


  yeah.. mine is something like that too. Serached around for a newer mk2 of the SZ2 series, but they are harder to come by.
   
  Nonetheless, am very pleased with my O2mk1.


----------



## Maxvla

Something I'm noticing with these now that I have proper pads is that they are very sensitive to placement. Moving the cans 1/8 of an inch in any direction can dramatically affect the sound.


----------



## n3rdling

As reiterated countless times here, proper pad orientation is very important with the O2s.  You want to have a full seal around the ears, so rotating the pads until the stitching is facing forward or slightly up is necessary.  
   
  Tilpo, the 2170 includes an amp.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





frur said:


> I am nearing completion on my KGSSHV and I am damn poud of it


 


  HDMan?


----------



## Hennyo

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> HDMan?


 

 Sure seems like it. Lol, Good catch!


----------



## akwok

I just realised that one of my SR-007 MK1s has a serial number of 70060.  I'm assuming this means that it's the 60th SR-007 ever made -- it sounds a little different to my ears (for the better) than my 71472 SR-007 MK1.  Is it just my mind playing tricks on me, or are there truly build differences between the two?
   
  (pads on both are of similar condition -- recently replaced)


----------



## Frur

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> HDMan?


 

 Who's that?


----------



## sachu

My new CD player has arrived!! A Cary 306/200

Can't wait to get back from gym to do some listening


----------



## Maxvla

Got my SRM-323S, in combination with the new pads and playing around with position of the pads, these O2s have completely transformed. They were harsh and sibilant with the receiver/energizer and bad pads, now there is only a faint hint of harshness and bass is significantly better since the pads actually seal now. I'm due for a better source, and the amp is good, but not a world beater, so there's room to improve.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> 70671 here.


 

 71637 on mine.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> 71637 on mine.


 


  70752 here


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sachu said:


> 70752 here


 

 Curious, why were you after a MK2?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Curious, why were you after a MK2?


 


  The strain relief on the cable is supposed to be a lot better, not to mention newer drivers relatively.. the former being the main reason.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sachu said:


> The strain relief on the cable is supposed to be a lot better, not to mention newer drivers relatively.. the former being the main reason.


 

 Right... but then you also get the sound of a MK2. I don't think you'll find many MK1 owners that would be willing to trade.


----------



## firev1

Quote:


tilpo said:


> Since you already have an O2 it might be better not to go with Stax. If you do, then you need to buy an amp _and_ a headphone, whereas you current amp is good enough when you get an HD650 or Q701.


 

 Thanks a lot for the advice, it seems fun to go down the stax route starting with the SR-252s system with the SR-207.


----------



## raif

It is weird that no matter how much you learn, you can always be a total newb(pardon the expression) given a new set of circumstances.
   
  I was summing all of my nostalgic strength to really like the Omega IIs as much as I wanted to, especially after my experience with the W3000anv.  Unfortunately, I was starting to get the impression that the Stax were just brittle sounding headphones.  So between each 20 minute listening session, I would turn off the amp, unplug the phones and put them in their case.
   
  Yesterday I found out about bending the arcs to get a better fit.  This definitely helped, but still something was amiss and I don't think it was just my brain adjusting from the LCD-3.
   
   
  Anyways, today I actually left them plugged in for a few hours sitting on the desk and when I put them on to give them a listen and holy cow, teh bass!!1!
   
  So apparently both of these things are "common knowledge" in the Stax community.
   
  The fit/seal thing seems pretty obvious to me, but the whole extended stator charge time...  Is that real or one of those burn-in type of phenomenons.


----------



## n3rdling

They should charge almost instantly.


----------



## raif

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> They should charge almost instantly.


 


   
  booo science.
   
  Ok, another question.  I have heard people say that the srm-323s sounds a little thin with the O2 and something like the BHSE is needed to fill out the bass, clean up the highs, other esoteric 3d soundstage / PRAT type of comments, etc.
   
  I listen at very low level, around 10-11 o'clock on the dial at most.  Would something like the BHSE or KGSSHV actually make any difference in the sound signature of the O2 given that I should be operating well within the headroom of the SRM-323s?  Especially, considering how compressed most modern music is, we usually aren't seeing these sweeping db ranges in music.


----------



## K3cT

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Right... but then you also get the sound of a MK2. I don't think you'll find many MK1 owners that would be willing to trade.


 


  The MK1 is more popular around here but I thought the MK2 has that upper-mid crispiness that many people seem to dig.


----------



## Maxvla

raif said:


> booo science.
> 
> Ok, another question.  I have heard people say that the srm-323s sounds a little thin with the O2 and something like the BHSE is needed to fill out the bass, clean up the highs, other esoteric 3d soundstage / PRAT type of comments, etc.
> 
> I listen at very low level, around 10-11 o'clock on the dial at most.  Would something like the BHSE or KGSSHV actually make any difference in the sound signature of the O2 given that I should be operating well within the headroom of the SRM-323s?  Especially, considering how compressed most modern music is, we usually aren't seeing these sweeping db ranges in music.




With a 2v source I'm listening to my 323S and O2 MK1 at 11-12 for non acoustic music, 11:30-12:30 for non classical acoustic and 12:00-1:00 for most classical (focused listening levels). While I do think the highs still have room to improve (and my DAC is not of the caliber of the headphones) my bass is quite thunderous if the material calls for it. Also apparently the 323S should be the best match save a T2 (I think) for the O2s in the Stax line. A 323S might be on par with a non-premium plain jane KGSS. It's a very slippery slope when you start saying you NEED a BHSE or KGSSHV or similar amp for these cans since the cost is 4-5 times as high before options are considered. If I stick with the O2s, I think an amp of that caliber will be in my possession at some point, but I'm in no hurry to get there, even though I could pay for one in cash right now if I wanted.


----------



## akwok

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> *A 323S might be on par with a non-premium plain jane KGSS*.


 
   
  Not entirely sure how you got to that conclusion.  If it's true, I'm definitely interested in switching to the 323S, as it's a fraction of the cost of my KGSS and I can use the money elsewhere.


----------



## Maxvla

It is speculation, but also tied directly to use with the O2 and not a general statement for all Stax phones. When I heard the O2 on HeadphoneAddict's KGSS it sounded very nice, but what I'm hearing right now is pretty close, from memory, using a different source, though.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





raif said:


> booo science.
> 
> Ok, another question.  I have heard people say that the srm-323s sounds a little thin with the O2 and something like the BHSE is needed to fill out the bass, clean up the highs, other esoteric 3d soundstage / PRAT type of comments, etc.
> 
> I listen at very low level, around 10-11 o'clock on the dial at most.  Would something like the BHSE or KGSSHV actually make any difference in the sound signature of the O2 given that I should be operating well within the headroom of the SRM-323s?  Especially, considering how compressed most modern music is, we usually aren't seeing these sweeping db ranges in music.


 


  As you can probably hear, the O2s have an upper mids dip and a midbass hump.  With the more powerful amps such as the BHSE, the dip and hump both get smaller in magnitude, making the FR more neutral.  The bass is also cleaned up a bit, it can be quite flabby from some of the lesser amps.  The comments on the O2/323 pairing seem off to me.


----------



## Maxvla

Where the SRM-323S O2 pairing and comparison to KGSS comes from:





> 1400 volts peak to peak (+/-350 power supplies)
> *KGSS*,Stax T1,T1s,T1W,313,*323*,717,727,sra-14s,srm-1 mk2,srm-monitor
> 
> Here are some of the output stage currents. Remember that every single amplifier has balanced outputs, so
> ...



Similar voltage swing, but lower current from the 323. The 323 is certainly the cheapest current production amp in the 1400V and up club.


----------



## Deadneddz

I've never heard the O2 sound thin ever. If you're not a fan of the O2 sound signature, it wont do you any good to rectify this issue with a more powerful amplifier. It just becomes more linear with more power, most noticeably in the bass region. Listen to the O2 bass performance from an amp like the SRM-T1 vs BH and you'll easily be able to differentiate the difference in complex passages when it goes from a flabby, bloated mess to a tightly controlled ball.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





raif said:


> booo science.


 

 And that, my friends, is why the world is going to crap. Everyone's own little biased worldview is more important than empirical evidence.
   
  Can the last one to leave please turn off the lights?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





raif said:


> I listen at very low level, around 10-11 o'clock on the dial at most.  Would something like the BHSE or KGSSHV actually make any difference in the sound signature of the O2 given that I should be operating well within the headroom of the SRM-323s?  Especially, considering how compressed most modern music is, we usually aren't seeing these sweeping db ranges in music.


 

 There's a lot more to it than _just _power reserve on tap. The short answer is that yes, the BHSE and the KGSSHV are still better, even if you aren't blasting them. The 323S is supposed to be one of the most balanced and natural sounding solid state amps ever produced from Stax though, and it should mate with the O2 better than the commonly available used amps like the SRM-1Mk2s, and the T1/S and its related ilk. The SRM-717 is really more of a Stax KGSS though, not the 323S.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





beefy said:


> And that, my friends, is why the world is going to crap. Everyone's own little biased worldview is more important than empirical evidence.
> 
> Can the last one to leave please turn off the lights?


 

 There is definitely a good reason to let the _amp _warm up for at least a good 15 minutes before listening. I've experienced that with all of my Stax amps, even the lowly Series A SRM-1MK2. Maybe that was it, not the headphones?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Also apparently the 323S should be the best match save a T2 (I think) for the O2s in the Stax line. A 323S might be on par with a non-premium plain jane KGSS. It's a very slippery slope when you start saying you NEED a BHSE or KGSSHV or similar amp for these cans since the cost is 4-5 times as high before options are considered. If I stick with the O2s, I think an amp of that caliber will be in my possession at some point, but I'm in no hurry to get there, even though I could pay for one in cash right now if I wanted.


 

 That's not really true. You'll likely get better results out of a 717 (though it is a bit more colored than the 323S, as I understand it), and you should definitely get better results out of the 727II with the feedback loop mod applied. A $1000 or so 717 is probably the best bang for the buck if you can find one, but if not, an imported 727II for $1700 or so would likely be the best way to go for those that don't want to spend BHSE money, and aren't into DIY.


----------



## jcx

Quote: 





deadneddz said:


> I've never heard the O2 sound thin ever. If you're not a fan of the O2 sound signature, it wont do you any good to rectify this issue with a more powerful amplifier. It just becomes more linear with more power, most noticeably in the bass region. Listen to the O2 bass performance from an amp like the SRM-T1 vs BH and you'll easily be able to differentiate the difference in complex passages when it goes from a flabby, bloated mess to a tightly controlled ball.


 


  sounds like you're listening with your expectations - electrostat operating principles are different from dynamic drivers
   
  so was that test blind, level matched, at "the same" time - with less than a minute switching between amps? - amps not clipping?
   
   
  electrostats look like a very high impedance load at low frequency, become "2x harder to drive" for every doubling of frequency - require ~ 1000x more current for the same SPL at 20 kHz vs 20 Hz
   
  so an electrostatic amp will have "current reserve", "electrical damping" factors tens to hundreds of times higher at low frequency than highs
   
  a "powerful" electrostatic amp is typically thought of as one with more bias current, able to work in Class A at high amplitudes at High audio frequency
   
  higher Vsupply, output swing does give more SPL at low frequency before clipping but the current demand, amp influence on damping is negligible
   
   
  if your "observations" are "real" - not just a product of expectation bias - then the cause has to be elsewhere in the amp/system than "power" as typically discussed in ES amps
   
  clipping due to less Vswing is only in part "power" - few here would describe a Koss E/90 as "more powerful" than a BH or T2 - but it will give more bass before clipping than either
   
   
  even if you don't want to make the distinction and simply equate Vswing with "power" I still see a subjective review "explained" by clipping without the reviewer knowing, pointing that out is flawed
   
  the amp/headphone combo may be fine at lower levels - up to about 110 dB SPL peak before clipping with O2, SRM-T1 #


----------



## raif

Quote: 





beefy said:


> And that, my friends, is why the world is going to crap. Everyone's own little biased worldview is more important than empirical evidence.
> 
> Can the last one to leave please turn off the lights?


 


  Hmm,  I might argue that taking something said in jest and using it as an opportunity to make holier-than-though judgements on the sentiments of the greater populace is having a similarly negative effect.  At least here in the US.
   
   
*edit:* not that I don't agree with what you said


----------



## raif

Quote: 





jcx said:


> ...a "powerful" electrostatic amp is typically thought of as one with more bias current, able to work in Class A at high amplitudes at High audio frequency
> 
> higher Vsupply, output swing does give more SPL at low frequency before clipping but the current demand, amp influence on damping is negligible
> ...


 
   
  thanks jcx, I was really hoping for an in depth post like this.  I now have some clear direction to do further research on the topic.


----------



## n3rdling

I would definitely do a blind test between a T1 and BH.


----------



## Sil3nce

beefy said:


> And that, my friends, is why the world is going to crap. Everyone's own little biased worldview is more important than empirical evidence.
> 
> Can the last one to leave please turn off the lights?




Absolutely, as soon as I finish my interpretation.


----------



## jcx

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I would definitely do a blind test between a T1 and BH.


 


  I would welcome the extra ~5dB dynamic headroom with the BH higher V, I doubt I could hear any differnece from BH higher bias with music since most music high frequency content rolls off above 3-5 kHz, and slew limiting isn't easily audible
   
  and unless "Rocking Out", trying for live performance peak SPL with unusually dynamic recordings you may never "need" the extra 5 dB
   
  but for the $$$ extra for BH, T2 you expect fewer "compromises", to be able to cover more extremes


----------



## n3rdling

I listen at low levels.  I'm aware of our brains' pitfalls i.e. expectation bias, etc. but I think it would be a fun experiment.  Of all amp ABX's this is the one I'm most certain I could pass, as I said when I got my BH.  Maybe I'll fail though, but I'm not afraid to.  I have no pride on the line 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Now, to find a used T1...


----------



## Golfnutz

I've been following the price of the SR-009 at pricejapan for the past few months, and the price keeps dropping as the Japanese Yen isn't doing very well.  Does anyone have any idea how much lower the Yen can possibly go?


----------



## Staxi

If you wish to stay with a Stax amp for the O2s, clear from lots of comments that either the 717 or the modded 727 are the best choices (save the holy T2). Not sure that I have seen any suggestion on which (the 717 or modded727) would be the preferred and why. Any volunteers..?


----------



## Sil3nce

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> I've been following the price of the SR-009 at pricejapan for the past few months, and the price keeps dropping as the Japanese Yen isn't doing very well.  Does anyone have any idea how much lower the Yen can possibly go?


 


  If we knew this then we would be entrepreneurs, not head'fiers


----------



## El_Doug

They COULD go Weimar Republic on us, with hyperinflation to the point that 100 notes are restamped as 10 billion... 
  
  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> I've been following the price of the SR-009 at pricejapan for the past few months, and the price keeps dropping as the Japanese Yen isn't doing very well.  Does anyone have any idea how much lower the Yen can possibly go?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> They COULD go Weimar Republic on us, with hyperinflation to the point that 100 notes are restamped as 10 billion...


 

 It's Japan, not Zimbabwe.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I listen at low levels.  I'm aware of our brains' pitfalls i.e. expectation bias, etc. but I think it would be a fun experiment.  Of all amp ABX's this is the one I'm most certain I could pass, as I said when I got my BH.  Maybe I'll fail though, but I'm not afraid to.  I have no pride on the line
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I have no doubt you'll easily pass this blind test.
   
  I'm not sure exactly how quiet you listen, but I've done the comparison with the T1 I used to own and my KGSSHV at the 67-70dB (c-weighted) level I usually listen at its a pretty substantial difference.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





beefy said:


> And that, my friends, is why the world is going to crap. Everyone's own little biased worldview is more important than empirical evidence.
> 
> Can the last one to leave please turn off the lights?


 

 Here here! I am in favor of forestalling any return to the 10th century!
   
  When Galileo showed the moons of Jupiter orbiting that planet in his telescope to officials of his day, they told him that the moons were obviously INSIDE THE TELESCOPE and that Jupiter couldn't really be like that.
   
  A little like "oh that's far too inexpensive to be any good" or "plugging the Magic Clock Radio into the same AC line as your audio system will improve bass articulation, give a 'blacker' background to the music, enhance color accuracy in Blu-Ray playback and clear up your erectile dysfunction...."


----------



## arnaud

I'm back!! Picked up my 727 amp back from the dealer today. Stax replaced one of the bridge diodes (there were also a couple of resistors in a separate bag), adjusted the DC offset and it's working nice and smooth again! First tune: Sebastian Sturm - Get Going, haaaaaaaa, I missed my rig but it's now all back 
   
  I also had a chance to do some listening against a couple of other cans at the store: post #4189 . Edit: listening to 15 Steps from Radiohead at home again now and the experience is quite different from the store. Not sure if it's because I am getting used to the 009 again or the source, but it is extremely dynamic and well balanced, comparatively better than at the store. And now Birds from Emiliana Torrini, this is just frigging awesome )
   
  cheers,
  arnaud


----------



## Tilpo

Is there any significant difference between the different Energizers/Transformers available?
I won't get the Woo Wee since that is unnecessarily expensive, but is there a significant difference between the SRD 4/5/9/whatever?


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is there any significant difference between the different Energizers/Transformers available?
> I won't get the Woo Wee since that is unnecessarily expensive, but is there a significant difference between the SRD 4/5/9/whatever?


 

 The 6 and 7 series have larger (i.e. "better"??) transformers. I have a 5, and it sounds just fine to me with good amps. I also have 7's, and they are a bit better, but not that much.


----------



## Tilpo

cjfrbw said:


> The 6 and 7 series have larger (i.e. "better"??) transformers. I have a 5, and it sounds just fine to me with good amps. I also have 7's, and they are a bit better, but not that much.




So if I get an entry level Stax setup, there is no need to get a more expensive transformer. Or at least I suspect the difference between the models won't justify spending a whole lot of money on. 

I don't really think the specs of a transformer aren't going to vary that much any way. That is, if the the energizer really is _only_ a transformer, and not any other circuitry.


----------



## Amarphael

Even entry level Staxes are very transparent to what you feed them with. I heard a clear difference with the SR-202  between a 717 and KGSS in favor of the latter, although i'm not sure if that was just the matter of the 717's coloration or if there was an step-up in dynamic range... didn't get to level match the volume either unfortunately.


----------



## Headdie

I can't hear any difference between my srd-6 and srd-7


----------



## Tilpo

amarphael said:


> Even entry level Staxes are very transparent to what you feed them with. I heard a clear difference with the SR-202  between a 717 and KGSS in favor of the latter, although i'm not sure if that was just the matter of the 717's coloration or if there was an step-up in dynamic range... didn't get to level match the volume either unfortunately.




Interesting.

Although that is irrelevant to the issue whether there is difference between the energizers.


----------



## Maxvla

Tilpo did you already get some stats? There's an 8/10 SR-202 in the classifieds for $200 I believe. Excellent deal. I was very tempted but managed to keep myself from buying them somehow.


----------



## Sil3nce

maxvla said:


> Tilpo did you already get some stats? There's an 8/10 SR-202 in the classifieds for $200 I believe. Excellent deal. I was very tempted but managed to keep myself from buying them somehow.




And here I was wondering why people weren't going for it as much


----------



## Tilpo

maxvla said:


> Tilpo did you already get some stats? There's an 8/10 SR-202 in the classifieds for $200 I believe. Excellent deal. I was very tempted but managed to keep myself from buying them somehow.




I want to finish my Beta22 first. I have made a promise to myself that I won't buy any gear whatsoever until I get this thing working properly. 
If I don't do this then things might start to get rather chaotic, and I want to avoid that at all costs. 

It won't be long until I'm finished though. The amp worked perfectly fine, it just had too much transformer interference so I bought a separate chassis for the transformer. Currently I'm just waiting for the parts needed for the AC interconnection. Installing it won't take up more than an hour or two.


----------



## nick n

Quick question needing some SR-3/5 pads for something I'll probably post pics of eventually and wondering if the ones at Audiocubes2 have the oval center like the originals or if they are a round middle?
  Seems grey color too -a darker or light?
   
  thanks


----------



## Sil3nce

Quote: 





nick n said:


> Quick question needing some SR-3/5 pads for something I'll probably post pics of eventually and wondering if the ones at Audiocubes2 have the oval center like the originals or if they are a round middle?
> Seems grey color too -a darker or light?
> 
> thanks


 


  I think you can get them cheaper off of ebay global.


----------



## Staxi

Gradofan2 - I need exact the same info on the 727 mod. Any chance you could forward to me? Thank you in advance.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





staxi said:


> Gradofan2 - I need exact the same info on the 727 mod. Any chance you could forward to me? Thank you in advance.


 


  Check out post :-

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/14040#post_6950296


----------



## sillysally

imo, I wouldn't be to quick on doing any mods to the SRM-727, if you are using the SR-009's.


----------



## arnaud

I would also advise against having the mod done unless you can do without the warranty / fix problems yourself. Mine blew up just because of static electricity it would seem, so s.t happens as they say... I'd be curious to hear both versions side by side though .


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> I've been following the price of the SR-009 at pricejapan for the past few months, and the price keeps dropping as the Japanese Yen isn't doing very well.  Does anyone have any idea how much lower the Yen can possibly go?


 

 If you happen to find someone who really has the answer to this question, please let me know, I'll bet the ranch against the yen! And I promise that I'll give you a pair of 009 for free.


----------



## Staxi

Sillysally - for now I am using the O2 mk1 but planning to get the 009s this summer. Are you saying that that 727 without mod is ok with them (the 009s)!?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> If you happen to find someone who really has the answer to this question, please let me know, I'll bet the ranch against the yen! And I promise that I'll give you a pair of 009 for free.


 

 Someone told me they though it was going to drop 20 - 25%. So far it's dropped about 5% from when they told me (beginning of February). I was hoping to find out if anyone else was thinking the same thing, or 20 - 25% is way off.


----------



## koonhua90

I don't post much, but when I do I make sure it's something good.
   

   

   
  It's such a good deal, new earpads, new headband, like new condition, including shipping it comes under 1900. And I have to commend Seyo-shop for sending the headphone on Saturday.


----------



## DarknightDK

Congrats!


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> Someone told me they though it was going to drop 20 - 25%. So far it's dropped about 5% from when they told me (beginning of February). I was hoping to find out if anyone else was thinking the same thing, or 20 - 25% is way off.


 


  Well, I doubt pretty much that anyone can know for sure what is going to happen with currencies in general, the yen in particular, in the near or medium term (as much can be said about the stock market as well): things can remain undervalued or overvalued for _a long time_ (assuming that they were properly valued in the first place). Of course, you will always find plenty of people who will be ready to tell you all sorts of things, and even believe themselves. The sad truth is that the only thing which is certain with regard to those things is that -- as I read somewhere -- _it will fluctuate_! At any rate (sic!), I like it too to watch the yen going down, as I am about to get the 009 as well. Best of luck.


----------



## di_andrei

The market consensus is that the yen will slowly devalue over the next year, but there are certainly no guarantees that will actually happen. The Bank of Japan would certainly like that to happen and have expressed their intention to encourage things in that direction. I don't expect the rate to continue moving in favour of the dollar as fast as it has in the last month.


----------



## Maxvla

Good, maybe in a year I'll be ready for some SR-009s if I feel that's the direction I want to go.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





staxi said:


> Sillysally - for now I am using the O2 mk1 but planning to get the 009s this summer. Are you saying that that 727 without mod is ok with them (the 009s)!?


 

 Yes that is what I am saying.
  As far as a little tighter bass and a little brighter treble goes, that's personal choice.
  My 4 fears with doing the mod is, too bright, warranty, not easy to do the mod or reverse the mod, and will the mod draw in the sound-stage.
   
  I paid less than 2k for my 727 USA version new, shipped, from a authorized dealer. Now compared to say a bhse at 6k plus the high cost of tube rolling, much bigger foot print, the heat issue, the long agonizing wait, is it worth the huge cost difference if you are using the SR-009's as I am.


----------



## Frur

I bought a pair of SR-3's, let's hope there good, prolly sell after one week, lol.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> The market consensus is that the yen will slowly devalue over the next year, but there are certainly no guarantees that will actually happen. The Bank of Japan would certainly like that to happen and have expressed their intention to encourage things in that direction. I don't expect the rate to continue moving in favour of the dollar as fast as it has in the last month.


 


  Hum, that is what I would worry the most here: “market consensus”. I don't remember anyone who made money on the long run because he or she was in phase with the consensus of the moment, on the contrary, it goes mostly the other way around. I'll leave aside the fact that the market consensus is constantly changing, like the direction the wind blows... Really, you better get that pair of 009 now and listen to music you like rather than listening to anyone who claims to know whether any currency will be up or down six months or so from now.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Me and my friend tried out some stax's yesterday (that we own). I had my stax 009 and lambda pro with me. That was actually the very first time i listened to the 009 since i don't own a amp for electrostatics headphones. the 009 will now being "burn in" for some couple of weeks. 

   
  after a couple of hours of listening, i believe we both find the stax lambda pro to be the desert island headphone.
   
  list of the headphones we compared with. 
   
  Stax SR-009, Stax Omega 2 Mk2, Stax SR-507, Stax Lambda Nova Classic, Stax SR-Lambda Pro, Stax SR-003, Stax SR-Sigma, Stax SR-Gamma, Stax SR-X MK3, Stax SR-5 Gold


----------



## schorsch

Nice choice)
   
  I always Switch between the Lambda Pro/Signature and the Sigma Pros depending on the music the kind of microphones used ....
  I also use extensively diffusefieldequalization (depending on the music, .... )
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: I've never tried the SR009 and I don-ät know if I should)


----------



## Radio_head

t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> after a couple of hours of listening, i believe we both find the stax lambda pro to be the desert island headphone.


 
  What was the system (source/amp) you listened on?


----------



## bmoura

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Yes that is what I am saying.
> As far as a little tighter bass and a little brighter treble goes, that's personal choice.
> 
> My 4 fears with doing the mod is, too bright, warranty, not easy to do the mod or reverse the mod, and will the mod draw in the sound-stage.
> ...


 
   
  I think that's solid advice. 
   
  I thought the BHSE and LL sounded fine with the 009 at the recent Bay Area Head-Fi Meet.  But the real surprise, for me, was how the Stax 009 sounded even warmer and delivered more low end via the 727-II amp from Stax.
  Not what I was expecting at all.


----------



## Frur

Usualy tubes are warmer, what gives with SS being warmer?
   
  I guess that begs the question for the SR-009's, KGSSHV or 727-II


----------



## schorsch

Who knows this amp?
   
  http://app.audiogon.com/listings/electrostatic-headphone-amp-ea-8-stax
   
  Regards Georg
   
  Any comments.... )


----------



## ManBeard

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Who knows this amp?
> 
> http://app.audiogon.com/listings/electrostatic-headphone-amp-ea-8-stax
> 
> ...


 


   
  I would avoid anything made by McAlister like the plague. See this and the previous post above it:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/500655/any-current-stax-o2-owners-heard-the-audeze-lcd-2/75#post_6767740


----------



## Tilpo

manbeard said:


> I would avoid anything made by McAlister like the plague. See this and the previous post above it:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/500655/any-current-stax-o2-owners-heard-the-audeze-lcd-2/75#post_6767740



Wow that looks terrible. Might still be worth bidding on it though, as long as you don't go over $200


----------



## kevin gilmore

This is another really BAD design. No global feedback, output tubes that are going
  to be impossible to match, not enough gain, high distortion, and build quality
  that rivals mikhail.
   
  $200 is too much to offer.


----------



## schorsch

Thanks a lot for your replays)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Maxvla

Hey all, just wanted to let SR-007 MK1 brown owners know Staxusa.com aka Yama's has brown headband arcs. They wouldn't respond to emails so I ordered and hoped for the best. Opened the box and they were brown, thankfully.


----------



## ManBeard

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Hey all, just wanted to let SR-007 MK1 brown owners know Staxusa.com aka Yama's has brown headband arcs. They wouldn't respond to emails so I ordered and hoped for the best. Opened the box and they were brown, thankfully.


 


  Good to know.
   
  How long did it take from ordering them to delivery? I'm always a bit skeptical when it comes to Yamas.


----------



## Maxvla

They made good time. Ordered this weekend and was delivered in 4 business days. Pretty painless aside from not returning my email.


----------



## Maxvla

Where it all started:




Now with everything replaced:


----------



## Beefy

You've done a good thing, Maxvla, restoring those phones to their former glory. The headphone Gods will be kind to you.


----------



## akwok

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Where it all started:
> 
> 
> Now with everything replaced:


 
   
  Given the condition of the headphones previously, I would be really careful when handling the cable since it's quite fragile due to a poorly designed strain-relief.  Although it's probably just placed like that for the photo only, it is probably best not to put any additional strain on the entry port.


----------



## shimmer n roar

I'm exploring a few headphone options including Stax. I have no way of trying them before I buy. Has anyone compared the SR-007Mk2 with the SR-507? I've looked at the frequency response measurements for both and the SR-507 looks better. What should I expect to hear if I could compare them side by side?


----------



## Maxvla

Yes, akwok, only for picture. I always lay them on their side like you see my Fidelio L1s behind.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Yes, akwok, only for picture. I always lay them on their side like you see my Fidelio L1s behind.


 


  Those pictures are painful to look at! Ouch! We ought to have some kind of rating system to inform the viewer of what he or she is about to be subjected to. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You could at least have put some black spots over the indecency... Shame on you!


----------



## spekkio

I noticed my headphones did not have the arcs spaced out as cleanly as yours did. I was wondering why the arcs were bunching up together in a weird way, and decided to open the headband assembly. To my horror, I discovered a missing screw where the arc was attached to the driver assembly. Where do you think I can get the screws? Did Yamas include any screws with your new arcs?
  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Where it all started:
> 
> 
> Now with everything replaced:


----------



## Maxvla

No, there were no screws included. Sorry


----------



## Frur

...


----------



## HDMan

Progress, I see that baby on the horizon.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/582131/is-anyone-building-the-kgsshv/45#post_8215993


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> I'm exploring a few headphone options including Stax. I have no way of trying them before I buy. Has anyone compared the SR-007Mk2 with the SR-507? I've looked at the frequency response measurements for both and the SR-507 looks better. *What should I expect to hear if I could compare them side by side?*


 

 Depends on your source and amp synergies.  Hearing a bunch of different Staxen out of the same amp will only tell you what they sound like from that amp, not what they could potentially sound like in absolute terms that could answer your question.  For example, hearing the 009 from the BH versus the LL are near completely different experiences.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Progress, I see that baby on the horizon.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/582131/is-anyone-building-the-kgsshv/45#post_8215993


 

 Not sure why but the ESP950 is still my favorite match w/ the KGSSHV rather than any Stax I've tried.


----------



## Sennator

There is a review of the SR-009 online written by Chris Martens:
   
http://www.avguide.com/review/stax-sr-009-electrostatic-earspeaker-playback-54
   
  It is positive!
  As far as I know no Hifi-Magazine worldwide has reviewed the SR-009 yet.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Not sure why but the ESP950 is still my favorite match w/ the KGSSHV rather than any Stax I've tried.


 


  Hmmm that's an interesting comment.  I have an ESP-950, I'll try it with my DIY T2 once it's finished.


----------



## m0gwai

I finally received all my new toys, one them being the SR-009, so far I'm impressed, they are so transparent and detailed, it's really a different experience for anything dynamic I ever tried (this is my first electrostatic headphones).
   
  I was just wondering what was the best way to go when it comes to volume controll, my typical chain is as follow:
   
  HTPC-->Smyth Realizer A8-->PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC-->Woo Audio WES-->Stax SR-009
   
  So I have software volume controll on the HTPC, I always run that at 100%, then I have volume controll on the Smyth Realizer A8, the DAC and of course the Amp and I must say I'm not really sure what's the best way to go, should I go 100% in the whole digital chain and then only play with the Amp, or should I balance the sound so I run pretty much everything at ~50%, is there any difference at all?
   
  Thanks a lot


----------



## sillysally

Amp.


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Amp.


 


  So does it mean I run all the rest at maximum level possible?


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> So does it mean I run all the rest at maximum level possible?


 


  Yes except the Realiser. Set the Realiser's presets around -10 to -15 (maybe higher or lower), hear what volume setting with the Realiser sounds best to you, adjusting the volume control on your amp also.


----------



## shimmer n roar

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Depends on your source and amp synergies.  Hearing a bunch of different Staxen out of the same amp will only tell you what they sound like from that amp, not what they could potentially sound like in absolute terms that could answer your question.  For example, hearing the 009 from the BH versus the LL are near completely different experiences.


 

 Couldn't the same be said for any headphone comparison? I'm sceptical that the differences are so great that comparison becomes irrelevant. I'd still appreciate comparisons from anyone here who has heard the SR-007 Mk2 and the SR-507. : )


----------



## Gradofan2

> "Couldn't the same be said for any headphone comparison? I'm sceptical that the differences are so great that comparison becomes irrelevant. I'd still appreciate comparisons from anyone here who has heard the SR-007 Mk2 and the SR-507. : )"


 
   
   
   
  Only limited time with both... but... my impressions were that the O2 MKII had a bit bigger, richer sound, than the 507 - though, the 507 was superb, and the "value" by far when driven by the 323.  
   
  I sold both O2 MKII sets I tried, because I refused to invest the money in the amp necessary to drive them properly - the BHSE.  And... I couldn't find a reasonably priced 717, or 727 to try with them.  The other Stax amps do not drive them well.  Way, way overpriced for the small improvement in sound you get for your money.  
   
  So... unless you're planning on investing $8,000+, or a little less for used gear... "forgidaboudit!"  Get the 507 with the 323... or... the AD2000 with a well matched source and amp.  Great sound for a small investment.  
   
  For me... it's all about achieving 95% of the sound quality, for a reasonable investment - value - not looking for that last 5%, at ridiculous prices.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Another way to get most of the potential with 007 mk (X) is to use a very high quality non stat amp with a modified SRD-7 box. As Spritzer has said, for a small sacrifice in detail you get better voltage swing and more slam (than with all but the top dog stat amps).
   
  Non stat amps are plentiful - an understatement - and I am surprised this approach is not pursued more often. BHSE it is not, but not that far off when 95% is good enough. If you already have the phones, trying it is a no brainer, IMO. It doesn't perform the miracles the BHSE does with these phones, but it sounds very, very nice. With great value, of course. When one has his heart set on a Ferrari, it would be a shame to ignore the Porsche already in the garage. And just plain wrong to let it collect dust.


----------



## brat

I'm surprised that the stax thread is still alive after all the LCD-3/2 madness...  I'm waiting for my special KGSS (with somewhat graphite boards and many other improvements) to compare the O2mk2 to my LCD-2 (+Violectric HPA V200). But the comparison is almost predicted and the staxes leave the house...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





gradofan2 said:


> Only limited time with both... but... my impressions were that the O2 MKII had a bit bigger, richer sound, than the 507 - though, the 507 was superb, and the "value" by far when driven by the 323.
> 
> I sold both O2 MKII sets I tried, because I refused to invest the money in the amp necessary to drive them properly - the BHSE.  And... I couldn't find a reasonably priced 717, or 727 to try with them.  The other Stax amps do not drive them well.  Way, way overpriced for the small improvement in sound you get for your money.
> 
> ...


 

 After RMAF 2011 I'm not a big fan of the SR-507, even on the best amps, and feel the SR-007 on an underpowered but decent amp is still better sounding than the 507 on anything.  I thought the SR-507 brought back the upper mids "etch" that the SR-404LE were able to suppress.  I feel that the $1500 Woo GES and an SR-007 is still going to sound better than the SR-507 on the WES, LL or BHSE (been there, done that, at least with the O2 Mk1 and the Mk2 SZ-2 serial number range).  
   
  Note - I actually like my vintage SR-Lambda Nova Signature more than the 507, and the LNS remind me a bit of my old SR-404LE (no direct comparo though, and auditory memory is short).


----------



## shimmer n roar

I probably should have mentioned that I'm considering the SR-007MK2 with the SRM-727ll or the SR-507 with the SRM-323S. I don't buy second hand gear as a rule so I won't be considering the vintage Stax models, even though they are more highly regarded here.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





brat said:


> I'm surprised that the stax thread is still alive after all the LCD-3/2 madness...  I'm waiting for my special KGSS (with somewhat graphite boards and many other improvements) to compare the O2mk2 to my LCD-2 (+Violectric HPA V200). But the comparison is almost predicted and the staxes leave the house...


 

 My SR-007 Mk1 are clearly better than my LCD-2 rev1 with Silver Dragon V3 cable, via Woo WES and KGSS vs the Eddie Current ZDT as the dynamic amp.  The O2 have more micro-detail and finesse, refinement and ambience, and transparency.  The LCD-2 have more volume and slam, but don't disappear like the Stax.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> I probably should have mentioned that I'm considering the SR-007MK2 with the SRM-727ll or the SR-507 with the SRM-323S.


 

 Yes, that's what I was getting at.  I'm not a fan of the 323 with just about anything.  If you can do the first option, then do it unless you want a more colored, 'entertaining' signature that deviates from the more highly regarded Stax sound.


----------



## Maxvla

brat said:


> I'm surprised that the stax thread is still alive after all the LCD-3/2 madness...  I'm waiting for my special KGSS (with somewhat graphite boards and many other improvements) to compare the O2mk2 to my LCD-2 (+Violectric HPA V200). But the comparison is almost predicted and the staxes leave the house...




Why surprised? Stats (and thus Stax) still reign supreme. The level of detail one can get from a set of stats without resorting to hot treble is incredible. The orthos are pretty good for what they are, but there is a slight bit of thickness about their sound now that I've heard many pairs and compared to many stats. Depending on your genre preference you may like the thicker sound, but for me, with extremely eclectic tastes, I need something closer to neutral.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





brat said:


> I'm surprised that the stax thread is still alive after all the LCD-3/2 madness...


 

 You haven't been reading the LCD3 thread apparently.


----------



## milosz

Right. The LCD2's and 3's are very good phones, with good sound, but they just don't have the upper mid and treble clarity, balance and detail of the better electrostatic 'phones. The bass of the LCD's are better than anything else I've heard, in terms of impact, texture, etc.  The mids of the LCD's are no slouch, either.  And their upper mids / highs are not in any way _bad_, it's just they aren't up to the very high standards of the better electrostatic headphones.
   
  SR-007's set a very high bar in terms of balance, detail, etc.


----------



## MohawkUS

Here is something you guy's probably don't see too often. A full stax rig put together for under $400. Excuse the mess, the CD player is still fresh from the attic.



First impressions of the SR-5NB are that these phones are freaking amazing. This rig blows right through my Burson 160DS/Ultrasone PRO2900 setup that I had, this is literally the first time I've been able to make out the lyrics in my metal. And it can only get better. The CD player was free, and the reciever $40.


----------



## graben

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Here is something you guy's probably don't see too often. A full stax rig put together for under $400. Excuse the mess, the CD player is still fresh from the attic.


 

 Actually used Stax are highly recommended and a lot of people get hooked to electrostatics through them.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Right. The LCD2's and 3's are very good phones, with good sound, but they just don't have the upper mid and treble clarity, balance and detail of the better electrostatic 'phones. The bass of the LCD's are better than anything else I've heard, in terms of impact, texture, etc.  The mids of the LCD's are no slouch, either.  And their upper mids / highs are not in any way _bad_, it's just they aren't up to the very high standards of the better electrostatic headphones.
> 
> SR-007's set a very high bar in terms of balance, detail, etc.


 
  LCDs aare great impact wise, but The 007mk1 is clearly better in the low frequency reproduction in every other way. Incredibly, the SR009 improves on this too with little to no loss in impact compared to the 007.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





brat said:


> I'm surprised that the stax thread is still alive after all the LCD-3/2 madness...  I'm waiting for my special KGSS (with somewhat graphite boards and many other improvements) to compare the O2mk2 to my LCD-2 (+Violectric HPA V200). But the comparison is almost predicted and the staxes leave the house...


 

 When Audeze can build a headphone with any sort of imaging, with detail comparable to electrostats, with enclosures that don't crack in days and performance that's consistent from one pair to the next, let me know.


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> When Audeze can build a headphone with any sort of imaging, with detail comparable to electrostats, with enclosures that don't crack in days and performance that's consistent from one pair to the next, let me know.


 


  Hey, my enclosures took 6 months to crack.


----------



## catscratch

My first real rig was also a 'stat rig for less than $400 and it wasn't even all used. SR-001 and an old Fisher PCDP. Blew away everything else I had at the time and still blows a lot of things away it really shouldn't.

If we didn't have this silly notion that electrostatics = $$$$, maybe Stax would still be independently owned. And if they do go under, where will the rest of us be...


----------



## sachu

i would argue against that. 
   
  Only an SR007 mk1 with a capable enough amp in the KGSS, LL, BHSE league in my opinion trumps a well established rig around the LCD-2 (Balancing Act, Liquid Fire, etc) soundly.
   
  Even in the entry level category, i would take (and I did) any of the vintage Yamaha orthos over the entry level lambdas , sigmas and what have you being driven by a vintage receiver (restored).


----------



## shimmer n roar

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Yes, that's what I was getting at.  I'm not a fan of the 323 with just about anything.  If you can do the first option, then do it unless you want a more colored, 'entertaining' signature that deviates from the more highly regarded Stax sound.


 
   
  Oh, so that's what you were getting at. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Isn't the SRM-323S generally regarded as the best bang for your buck Stax amp? I'm pretty sure spritzer described it somewhere as the best Stax amp currently in production. I've seen the SRM-727ll referred to as colored but not the SRM-323S and that's got me wondering how much of a step up the SRM-727ll is for the price.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> Oh, so that's what you were getting at.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Best bang per buck may not necessarily mean you'd want to lay down any bucks at all.  A Subaru WRX hatch might be a nice bang per buck item but aren't you looking for a V8/10/12 sportscar w/ the Stax? 
   
  The difference to me between the KGSSHV,BH, LL and the lesser amps is simply too much compromise for what's acceptable to me.  The math doesn't add up to my ears.  If you want the Stax because they are transparent to the source, don't cut corners at the source.  We aren't talking about driving some Denons here.


----------



## n3rdling

The LL is essentially the same circuit as the 323, btw.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The LL is essentially the same circuit as the 323, btw.


 

 Well, it doesn't essentially sound the same w/ the 009.  At all...
   
  323 + 009 = limited bass presence, thin notes, brighter treble, boring.
   
  LL + 009 = richer bass, more impact, full note weight, warmer tone, better dynamics.
   
  Maybe it's the blue box?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Edit - If you want to share how to turn the 323 into a LL I'm down.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  $4k is bit over the top.


----------



## n3rdling

I wouldn't put it past the blue box really...placebo is a powerful thing.  They're not exactly the same for obvious reasons (parts, PSU, etc) but the amp schematics can be found elsewhere if you know where to look.   You can always build your own to save more money and use whatever parts you want.
   
  Edit:  It's funny but the LL with the SR007 sounded better than the Stax tube amps but a little worse than the SRM717, which is actually what I expect from the 323/SR007.


----------



## Maxvla

Perhaps the people at the Austin meet might shed some light on this as they put the 323S and LL side by side. I didn't listen to it myself.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I wouldn't put it past the blue box really...placebo is a powerful thing.


 

 I would.  I hate the blue and red boxes.  I think they look tacky.  I prefer the elegant, refined Stax look.
   
  I'm going a different direction for a Stat amp anyway.


----------



## pabbi1

http://www.head-fi.org/t/600386/sr009-wes-bhse-ll-hit-the-mainstream/15#post_8219694


----------



## sachu

My thoughts echo yours anxailus..the "SRM-323"is in fact, with the SR009 and the 007 is the best stat amp I have heard to date..


----------



## brat

I have SRM-727II (rewired for 220V) which I don't use but don't want to sell. Some months ago I've seen somewhere a thread discussing a mod of this amp. Is there anyone (a forum member or a company) who can do this mod for me?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> I would.  I hate the blue and red boxes.  I think they look tacky.  I prefer the elegant, refined Stax look.
> 
> I'm going a different direction for a Stat amp anyway.


 


  Oooo nice   I really wanna hear that amp.  Any idea if it's going to make it to the SoCal meet?  Do you plan on sticking with the ESP950s or getting some other stats as well?


  Quote: 





sachu said:


> My thoughts echo yours anxailus..the "SRM-323"is in fact, with the SR009 and the 007 is the best stat amp I have heard to date..


 


  FWIW, you said the same about the exstata.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> I would.  I hate the blue and red boxes.  I think they look tacky.  I prefer the elegant, refined Stax look.
> 
> *I'm going a different direction for a Stat amp anyway.*


 

 The latest EC creation?


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Oooo nice   I really wanna hear that amp.  Any idea if it's going to make it to the SoCal meet?  Do you plan on sticking with the ESP950s or getting some other stats as well?


 

 It should be by then.  Though I'm planning on grabbing the solder gun myself for a little fun, see what happens.  950s for now, but hearing how the 009s were able to wake up and transform made me think I need to spend more time w/ them and a complimentary amp just to make sure I have the right idea about them.  Honestly, just give me Orpheus w/ bass impact and I'm done.  Those are the only two I'd consider.  The 507, Lambdas, 007 mk1/2, Omegas just don't speak to me like those two.  Or I could just move in and pay rent?


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





livewire said:


> The latest EC creation?


 

 Hey Jim!  It should be ready by next month, or at least the final production unit.  I hope to have a listen then and report back.  You swinging by the LA meet in August?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





obzilla said:


> Hey, my enclosures took 6 months to crack.


 


  Mine haven't cracked...going on 7 months.  I wonder if local humidity / dryness  type stuff has an impact on this.  Or if it's just luck of the draw, wood is not the best material when it comes to lot-to-lot consistency. But you got to wonder- I haven't heard about cracking from  Audio Technica or Denon owners, and they have wood earcups. Grado has some wood models, too, if I recall. Do any of those split?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> It should be by then.  Though I'm planning on grabbing the solder gun myself for a little fun, see what happens.  950s for now, but hearing how the 009s were able to wake up and transform made me think I need to spend more time w/ them and a complimentary amp just to make sure I have the right idea about them.  Honestly, just give me Orpheus w/ bass impact and I'm done.  Those are the only two I'd consider.  The 507, Lambdas, 007 mk1/2, Omegas just don't speak to me like those two.  Or I could just move in and pay rent?


 


  Let me know if you wanna build a KGSSHV...I should have extra boards.  The Aristaeus should be here soon and I have a feeling it'll have a bit more bass impact than the HEV90, I'm just hoping it doesn't sacrifice anything else in the process.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> FWIW, you said the same about the exstata.


 


  Than a vintage Stax SRM1-mk2, SRM006T and SRM007T against which i have compared it..yes. Absolutely to these ears.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Very good with the SR404 and ESP950..oh yes. Good enough to drive the O2..no!
   
  Didn't know you were in the business of spreading blind conjecture, half truths and deliberate mis-quoting as well Milos.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Than a vintage Stax SRM1-mk2, SRM006T and SRM007T against which i have compared it..yes. Absolutely to these ears.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  No I specifically remember you saying the BH.  I know sometimes you don't even believe how far you go sometimes.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> No I specifically remember you saying the BH.


 
   
  If the mafia knows says so.. it must be true ..right. lol
   
   
  In the end, we are only talking about amps here..so get over it. . Don't see why it should be such a personal affront if someone likes an amp (any amp for that matter) other than what you hold in high regard.
  No need to resort to overtly inaccurate statements and mis quoting.


----------



## musicman59

Where do I apply for a membership of the group?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I just ordered today the SR-009 and SRM-727II. The goal if to upgrade the amp in a year.
  Now the waiting game starts.....


----------



## shimmer n roar

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Best bang per buck may not necessarily mean you'd want to lay down any bucks at all.  A Subaru WRX hatch might be a nice bang per buck item but aren't you looking for a V8/10/12 sportscar w/ the Stax?
> 
> The difference to me between the KGSSHV,BH, LL and the lesser amps is simply too much compromise for what's acceptable to me.  The math doesn't add up to my ears.  If you want the Stax because they are transparent to the source, don't cut corners at the source.  We aren't talking about driving some Denons here.


 

 Lol! I think that we might have different priorities and budgets but thanks anyway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Still interested in comparisons from those of you who have heard the SR-007MKll and SR-507 regardless of source/amp. The frequency response measurements favour the SR-507 but how do they sound to you? Which is the most resolving and how do they do bass? I'm a bit concerned by references to the SR-007MKll's "flabby bass".


----------



## LCfiner

I can give you a brief comparison of a 407 on an older T1S (and Isabellina DAC) and an O2 mark I on a GES (Benchamark DAC1 and Headroom desktop DAC). Not exactly the comparison you asked for but it might be useful, maybe.
   
  short version: O2 on GES wins.
   
  slightly longer version. Regardless of DAC, O2 has better bass with more impact than the 407 (the DAC1 improved matters slightly over the headroom DAC), a more even tonality with less prominent treble, and a wider soundstage (oh, and better comfort.)  I can’t get into more detail than that as I did not listen to the two setups side by side. 
   
  Compared to the HD800 and D7000, previously used on the Isabellina balanced amp/dac, the O2 mk I does not have flabby bass. I would consider the HD800 bass to be very tight with good impact. the D7000 is an example of more “fun” bass that is exaggerated for more impact - it’s a little flabby (but not as much as the D5000). The O2 does not have the same bass impact as the HD800, but it’s quite close. bass detail and subtlety is noticeable. I would not call it flabby.
   
  I would not be surprised to find that the O2 on a more powerful amp ended up beating the HD800 on bass impact.
   
   
  Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> Lol! I think that we might have different priorities and budgets but thanks anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> I would not be surprised to find that the O2 on a more powerful amp ended up beating the HD800 on bass impact.


 
   
  I would.


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> I would.


 


  hey, fair enough. I’m not putting any money on it. I was just going from older comments about the bass on the O2 when used on the higher end amps. If that’s not the case, then that’s cool
   
  (I loved the bass on the HD800, FWIW)


----------



## spekkio

To Shimmer n roar:
   
  I've heard both the O2 (mk2 and mk1) and 507. Owned both the mk1 and 507 for a few months in succession. In my opinion, O2 is the better headphone. Its bass even from an srm-252 extends very deep and has high bass impact. 507 has good extension also, but the bass feels like a paper slap - not enough slam and force. O2's instrument separation is very good. Although soundstage of the 507 is larger, the O2 resolves each instrument in their own place, such that it's easy to tell what is going on in complex music.
   
  O2 is also the more natural sounding one. It sounds like everything is right. Whereas the 507 sounds a little bright to my ears. I had fatigue 15 minutes into listening. On the O2, I can crank it up as loud as I want and still feel good.
   
  To everyone else:
   
  I unscrewed my O2 headband portion and found this:

  If you look carefully, the bottom left screw hole (where the band is attached to the headphone) is not even drilled. That explains why I was missing a screw. Anyone know where to find one of those? They look like this:
   

  Thanks!


----------



## Maxvla

That's odd especially on a product of this price and from Japan no less. Maybe contact your region's Stax dealer and see what they can do for you. The bottom screw is much shorter than the upper screw.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Where do I apply for a membership of the group?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Congrats, and imo the SRM-727 is a very good and powerful amp for your SR-009's.
   


  Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> Lol! I think that we might have different priorities and budgets but thanks anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 imo the bass of the SRM-727 with the SR-009's is really not what I would call "flabby bass", at-least not on my headphone system, the low bass and sub-bass pops very nicely.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





sachu said:


> If the mafia knows says so.. it must be true ..right. lol
> 
> 
> In the end, we are only talking about amps here..so get over it. . Don't see why it should be such a personal affront if someone likes an amp (any amp for that matter) other than what you hold in high regard.
> No need to resort to overtly inaccurate statements and mis quoting.


 


  Eh, I don't really care, I was just pointing that out.  I don't, for instance, create threads for amps I don't even own...
   
  Just to back up what I was saying earlier:
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/447950/exstata-diy-electrostatic-amp-for-intermediate-diyers/1740#post_6254519
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/447950/exstata-diy-electrostatic-amp-for-intermediate-diyers/2565#post_6448849
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/447950/exstata-diy-electrostatic-amp-for-intermediate-diyers/2940#post_6636527
   
  Told ya so


----------



## sachu

yeah.. with the ESP950 i did prefer the exstata. ..not with the O2.  Again mis quoting.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/17685#post_8224296


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> To Shimmer n roar:
> 
> I've heard both the O2 (mk2 and mk1) and 507. Owned both the mk1 and 507 for a few months in succession. In my opinion, O2 is the better headphone. Its bass even from an srm-252 extends very deep and has high bass impact. 507 has good extension also, but the bass feels like a paper slap - not enough slam and force. O2's instrument separation is very good. Although soundstage of the 507 is larger, the O2 resolves each instrument in their own place, such that it's easy to tell what is going on in complex music.
> 
> ...


 

 Oh, I don't think you are missing a screw- seems like Stax gave you quite a screw, all right! (I wonder if they had a cigarette afterwards?)  Yeah, and now they won't even CALL YOU.
   
  They should NEVER have shipped something like that!  This isn't a $5 pair of earbuds, I think for ~$2k you have a right to expect the thing will be put together properly!


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Congrats, and imo the SRM-727 is a very good and powerful amp for your SR-009's.
> 
> 
> imo the bass of the SRM-727 with the SR-009's is really not what I would call "flabby bass", at-least not on my headphone system, the low bass and sub-bass pops very nicely.


 


  x2 on the SR009 with SRM727 but I can't say the same of the O2mkII driven by the same amp. I wouldn't go as far as calling the bass flabby but it certainly can't be improved upon and does get bothersome with time...


----------



## Headdie

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> SRM-3 is just a SRM-Xh with a full size power supply.  It even uses the same circuit boards.


 
   
I've also noted this from the ESP-950 thread : "Do some small mods to the SRM-Xh and it is a very, very good amp."​  ​ So I could improve the SRM-Xh with a better PSU, but what are these small mods to make it even better?
   
Thank you,


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Oh, I don't think you are missing a screw- seems like Stax gave you quite a screw, all right! (I wonder if they had a cigarette afterwards?)  Yeah, and now they won't even CALL YOU.
> 
> They should NEVER have shipped something like that!  This isn't a $5 pair of earbuds, I think for ~$2k you have a right to expect the thing will be put together properly!


 


  My bet would be that somebody else "screwed" with this phone, and probably wasn't Stax.
  If bought used, it has gone through many many hands


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





gilency said:


> My bet would be that somebody else "screwed" with this phone, and probably wasn't Stax.
> If bought used, it has gone through many many hands


 

 Indeed. Most Mk1s are at least nearing their 10th birthday. I seriously doubt it left the factory like that.


----------



## Silent One

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Where do I apply for a membership of the group?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





shimmer n roar said:


> Lol! I think that we might have different priorities and budgets but thanks anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 Many comments were made about 007 sound problems back when they first came out but it seemed that this was mostly a problem of the old Stax tube amps which don't swing enough volts.  The 717 transistor amp became more highly recommended.    
   
  I should add that sometimes what you would think is an amp problem isn't.  I recently changed over from using a fairly expensive  cd transport which used an RCA digital  cable to a much less expensive model which used a much cheaper toslink.  Amazingly to me I preferred the cheap set-up by a fair margin showing more open sound, cleaner treble and bass.  It may have lost a tad of detail but the advantages outweighed this. I had bought into the conventional wisdom that Toslink wasn't that good although since the better transport did not have toslink it wasn't really an issue. 
  And I now think even more highly of the 717 amp.


----------



## shimmer n roar

Thanks LCfiner, spekkio, sillysally and edstrelow for your replies.


----------



## Tilpo

Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2? 
What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


----------



## akwok

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2?
> What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


 


  Sounds better, fits better (imo), but is a tad more expensive.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2?
> What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


 

 It's not just you. The Mk2 has different pads and a port, the result is response that's not as balanced as the Mk1. I think this is mostly down to the port. There's a mod that is supposed to make them sound pretty much like a Mk1. The one advantage of the Mk2 is that the cable entry was reinforced - a weak spot with the Mk1. There's a third version designated by serials starting with SZ3, the so called "Mk2.5". You don't want that one.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





gilency said:


> My bet would be that somebody else "screwed" with this phone, and probably wasn't Stax.
> If bought used, it has gone through many many hands


 

 Since the place where the missing screw was supposed to go was NEVER DRILLED - as reported by the OP-  that would have to have happened _at the factory_.  
   
  As far as I know once a hole is drilled, you can't "undrill" it......


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





milosz said:


> As far as I know once a hole is drilled, you can't "undrill" it......


 

 Agreed.   I can't quite tell from the picture, but it looks like there is a broken off screw where the hole should be.  This is usually caused by the hole not being tapped deep enough or the screw being too long and bottoming out before the head of the screw comes in contact with the surface.  It could have happened at the factory, but I would bet some previous owner tried to do a repair without the proper parts.


----------



## Maxvla

This can still be fixed by carefully drilling, tapping, and finding an appropriate screw, assuming Stax doesn't take care of it personally.


----------



## Tilpo

If you have decent enough drilling equipment it shouldn't be more than a minute's worth of work.


----------



## brat

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2?
> What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


 

 It's the mafia choise.


----------



## catscratch

I never had an SZ3 O2 but I did have an SZ2 O2 together with a Mk1. Mk1 was better by a good bit - more linear. Mk2 had more midbass emphasis and an upper midrange coloration. In other respects they were more or less identical.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2?
> What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


 


  For me it was simple, its the only one i have actually had the opportunity to listen to.


----------



## Headdie

After more digging in the Stax threads for SRM-Xh mods, I understand that I could replace the 250v caps by 350v caps, change the PSU and raise the voltage to ??? Then, it should sounds better... Am I mistaken ?
  
  Quote: 





headdie said:


> I've also noted this from the ESP-950 thread : "Do some small mods to the SRM-Xh and it is a very, very good amp."​  ​ So I could improve the SRM-Xh with a better PSU, but what are these small mods to make it even better?
> 
> Thank you,


----------



## kevin gilmore

It is going to get a lot hotter this way. It already gets plenty hot when driven with a low impedance 12V car battery.
  You don't have to actually change the power supply, just change the caps, and run the input at about 15V.


----------



## Headdie

What should I expect from this SRM-X modification ?
  A net improvement or a not so clear kind of ?
  Thank you Kevin,


----------



## kevin gilmore

Higher volume without clipping. Very little change in the sound if any.
  Spritzer has one that he uses every now and again, he would know more.
  I have a modified unit around here somewhere. Have not seen it in a while.


----------



## Headdie

Good ! So I'll probably keep it for the office and follow another path for sound improvement.


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Is it just me or does the O2 MK 1 seem far more popular than the MK 2?
> What is the reason for this in any case? Does the MK 1 sound better, or is it cheaper or more abundant?


 

 I have both Mk1 and Mk2 and like them equally well.  They sound more similar than some here would have you believe.  I don't believe that one is any more truthful than the other.  Which ever one you get accustomed to will be your reference and the other will sound "wrong" if you are the obsessive type.  If I was forced to keep only one, it would likely be the Mk2 -- not because it's better, but because it's newer and should have a longer life.  Just my $ 0.02


----------



## Uncle00Jesse

does anyone have an oppinion on which would be better.. stax 4170 system or srm323 and sr507? They are both right around the same price in the US. Would the srm323 combo have the advantage in the long term because it can drive more models than the 006ts if i want to upgrade down the line? thanks


----------



## jaycalgary

Maybe 3170 and try older Lambda models when they come up 2nd hand to compare?


----------



## Maxvla

I wouldn't get the SR-307. Probably the worst of the line up if it's anything like the SR-303 was. The SR-404 wasn't too much better.


----------



## jaycalgary

Apples and oranges I would think comparing the older models to the new line. I didn't really like my 407's much but I read that 307 407 and 507 are all the same drivers with a different cord etc. I am guessing but probably doesn't translate into that big of a sound difference. Also the opportunity to try older models also without having to spend a whole lot.


----------



## musicman59

Any idea what is going on wit the Stax distributor (Yama's)? My dealer has been emailing them and calling to place my order with no response.


----------



## Maxvla

They never replied to my query either, so who knows.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Any idea what is going on wit the Stax distributor (Yama's)? My dealer has been emailing them and calling to place my order with no response.


 

 Yeah that's pretty much what they do.


----------



## musicman59

I don't get it... it is a dealer trying to contact them to place a stock order. Don't they want to do business? It's crazy.
  Maybe a little push from Japan may help.


----------



## Maxvla

From China you mean.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I don't get it... it is a dealer trying to contact them to place a stock order. Don't they want to do business? It's crazy.
> Maybe a little push from Japan may help.


 

 If you are getting your 727/009's from who I think you are, I got the last 727 they had in stock.Matter of fact they showed out of stock, but the GM was sandbagging one so they gave it to me.
  Point being is that this dealer goes out of there way for us head-fi members, got my same combo in 2 days and am very happy I took this route.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> From China you mean.


 
  The parent company is Chinese but I am almost sure that the Stax facilities are still in Japan. In fact I read there will be no changes in personnel either.
  
   


  Quote: 





sillysally said:


> If you are getting your 727/009's from who I think you are, I got the last 727 they had in stock.Matter of fact they showed out of stock, but the GM was sandbagging one so they gave it to me.
> Point being is that this dealer goes out of there way for us head-fi members, got my same combo in 2 days and am very happy I took this route.


 


  No, it is not the same place as yours Peter. I am getting them from my trusted dealer that just became Stax dealer so this is part of his first Stax orders. What I don't get is that as you know Stax dealers have been dropping like flies due to the very small margin so if your are a distributor and you are getting a new deal in a shrinking market don't you pay attention to it? I guess I am using too much logic 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## n3rdling

Logic doesn't apply to Yamas


----------



## Maxvla

musicman59 said:


> The parent company is Chinese but I am almost sure that the Stax facilities are still in Japan. In fact I read there will be no changes in personnel either.




Right, but since Stax has let Yama's do this for a long time, what makes you think the push would ever come from anywhere but China?


----------



## m0gwai

I finally gt my Woo WES delivered and had some time to play with my SR-009, I noticed that when I press the pads against each other I get a loud noise, the same is happening when I move my jaws when wearing, it's quite uncomfortable and it's loud enough to hurt my ears, if I stand still they play perfectly fine so I was wondering if this is considered normal since its my first pair of stax or electrostatic headphones.

I made a short video from my phone, the microphone is terrible the actual noise is much louder, could anyone with a pair of SR-009 confirm if this is normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMxlBw3uKo4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Just to clarify, the noise is not comming from the leather.


----------



## Beefy

Stax fart!


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Stax fart!


 


  expensive fart


----------



## Vitor Teixeira

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I finally gt my Woo WES delivered and had some time to play with my SR-009, I noticed that when I press the pads against each other I get a loud noise, the same is happening when I move my jaws when wearing, it's quite uncomfortable and it's loud enough to hurt my ears, if I stand still they play perfectly fine so I was wondering if this is considered normal since its my first pair of stax or electrostatic headphones.
> I made a short video from my phone, the microphone is terrible the actual noise is much louder, could anyone with a pair of SR-009 confirm if this is normal?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMxlBw3uKo4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> Just to clarify, the noise is not comming from the leather.


 


  I think they are broken, you can send them to me please.
  My address is:


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> I finally gt my Woo WES delivered and had some time to play with my SR-009, I noticed that when I press the pads against each other I get a loud noise, the same is happening when I move my jaws when wearing, it's quite uncomfortable and it's loud enough to hurt my ears, if I stand still they play perfectly fine so I was wondering if this is considered normal since its my first pair of stax or electrostatic headphones.
> I made a short video from my phone, the microphone is terrible the actual noise is much louder, could anyone with a pair of SR-009 confirm if this is normal?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMxlBw3uKo4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> Just to clarify, the noise is not comming from the leather.


 

 Don't freakin' do that, matey! Think about what you are doing to the drivers by pressurising them up like that! It's called the Stax fart and is supposedly harmless when caused by putting them on or chewing. This was very prominent in Stax SR-007 Mk1 and was modified by adding a port to stop pressure build up (at least that is what the Head-Fi hypothesis is). 
  If I were Stax CEO and I saw that video on You Tube, all warranty cover would be removed from your pair. Warranties shouldn't cover abuse of equipment.


----------



## Tilpo

john buchanan said:


> Don't freakin' do that, matey! Think about what you are doing to the drivers by pressurising them up like that! It's called the Stax fart and is supposedly harmless when caused by putting them on or chewing. This was very prominent in Stax SR-007 Mk1 and was modified by adding a port to stop pressure build up (at least that is what the Head-Fi hypothesis is).
> If I were Stax CEO and I saw that video on You Tube, all warranty cover would be removed from your pair. Warranties shouldn't cover abuse of equipment.



I hardly think that what he does on the youtube vid can be called 'abuse'. At least, if that counts as abuse, then they have pretty poor build quality if you ask me.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> At least, if that counts as abuse, then they have pretty poor build quality if you ask me.


 

 You realize how thin the membrane is right?  It's not an HD25.  Maybe I'm weird but the only thing I do w/ my phones is put them on my head and listen to them.


----------



## Tilpo

anaxilus said:


> You realize how thin the membrane is right?  It's not an HD25.  Maybe I'm weird but the only thing I do w/ my phones is put them on my head and listen to them.



True, but I don't really think what he did is very abusive. I think similar pressure on the pads might occur when putting the headphones on your head.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> True, but I don't really think what he did is very abusive. I think similar pressure on the pads might occur when putting the headphones on your head.


 

 That's nice for you - feel free to submit that video to a Stax representative and ask. Unless Stax has included a port (like the SR007 Mk 2 and Mk 2.5), I suspect you may hasten yours to an early grave. The dust covers (outside the driver membrane) are quite fragile and essential.


----------



## milosz

All Stax headphones that I've used (Lambdas and Omegas) seem to do this on occasion when settling them on your head or adjusting their position, and it doesn't seem to leave them any worse for the wear.
   
  On the other hand, I would not go out of my way to repeatedly 'pump' the things to cause them to make this noise....common sense would lead me to think that intentionally screwing around with my $$$ electrostatic headphones in this fashion is not in my best interest....


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Don't freakin' do that, matey! Think about what you are doing to the drivers by pressurising them up like that! It's called the Stax fart and is supposedly harmless when caused by putting them on or chewing. This was very prominent in Stax SR-007 Mk1 and was modified by adding a port to stop pressure build up (at least that is what the Head-Fi hypothesis is).
> If I were Stax CEO and I saw that video on You Tube, all warranty cover would be removed from your pair. Warranties shouldn't cover abuse of equipment.


 


  Abuse of equipment...
   

   
  You do realize I'm not pressing them any harder than when I wear them on my head, it's also happening if I move my jaw... from now I will wear them and sty exactly like this
   

  I don't want to yawn and void the warranty...
   
  And If I was Stax CEO and my headphone could be damaged by doing something as basic as moving your ear, I would start by reviewing my design and include a disclaimer but at least now I know it’s considered normal behavior and will obviously stop messing with them…


----------



## spritzer

No way the diaphragm can be damaged by air pressure alone.  Mylar has amazing tensile strength and the same needs to apply to what ever "magic" film they are using these days. 
  
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Higher volume without clipping. Very little change in the sound if any.
> Spritzer has one that he uses every now and again, he would know more.
> I have a modified unit around here somewhere. Have not seen it in a while.


 
   
  Indeed it just gives you a bit more voltage swing but care needs to be taken to not push any components out of spec.  Extra cooling for the output transistors is mandatory too.  I've sold this amp now but by far the biggest impact on the sound quality was the balanced input and TKD 601 pot.


----------



## arnaud

I get similar type of sound when adjusting the headphones on my head (I typically make sure the "fart" sound occurs to confirm the tight seal since this is key to the headphone performance), albeit nowhere near the same loudness level. This is actually something I started to pay attention to because the last pair I sampled at Dyna audio store couple of weeks back only made a very very faint noise when seating the headphones.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> That's nice for you - feel free to submit that video to a Stax representative and ask. Unless Stax has included a port (like the SR007 Mk 2 and Mk 2.5), I suspect you may hasten yours to an early grave. *The dust covers (outside the driver membrane) are quite fragile and essential.*


 


  Actually, as thin as the dust cover layers on the back of the drivers are, the only real way to damage them is by poking a hole in them.  The Mylar, of course, is virtually indestructible.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No way the diaphragm can be damaged by air pressure alone.  Mylar has amazing tensile strength and the same needs to apply to what ever "magic" film they are using these days.


 
   
  Quote: 





il mostro said:


> The Mylar, of course, is virtually indestructible.


 

 Someone should inform Audeze.


----------



## m0gwai

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Someone should inform Audeze.


 


  Yes please, so they can charging 5'000$ for the LCD-4


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





m0gwai said:


> Yes please, so they can charging 5'000$ for the LCD-4


 

 Uh, u missed the point.  They've been using Mylar and/or some derivative for a good while now.  The driver failures are no stranger to it.


----------



## m0gwai

ah my bad


----------



## chinsettawong

Do you all know what that fart sound really is?  It is the sound of the diaphragm touching one of the stators. The pressure inside the ear cup pushes the diaphragm to touch the stator.  But because of high tension of diaphragm, once you release the pressure, the diaphragm comes right back to where it should be at.  
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Do you all know what that fart sound really is?  It is the sound of the diaphragm touching one of the stators. The pressure inside the ear cup pushes the diaphragm to touch the stator.  But because of high tension of diaphragm, once you release the pressure, the diaphragm comes right back to where it should be at.
> 
> Wachara C.


 

 I've never noticed it on the HE60/90.  Either I haven't had enough time w/ them or they don't exhibit this.  Any ideas what might be different about their construction?


----------



## chinsettawong

Stax Omega series of headphones all have very high spacer thickness to spacer width ratio.  In case of O2 Mk1 it's: 0.5 mm to 78 mm.  That's 1:156.  As for HE60/90, they are around 1:120.  Just imagine you have 2 supporting points and you have a piece of diaphragm hanging in between.  The further the supporting points, the easier the diaphragm to flex.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Do you all know what that fart sound really is?  It is the sound of the diaphragm touching one of the stators. The pressure inside the ear cup pushes the diaphragm to touch the stator.  But because of high tension of diaphragm, once you release the pressure, the diaphragm comes right back to where it should be at.
> 
> Wachara C.


 

 This is interesting because we always end up with 2 different answers. Spritzer always mentions the tensioned diaphragm is as stiff as it gets and can't possibly hit the stator, yet you say that the gap is so small that simple quick pressure differential between both side of the diaphragm will make touch the stator.
   
  If you are correct, then it would seem to me like Stax has changed the tensioning of the diaphragm since initial batches because the latest unit I tried at the store barely made a sound when squeezed. If I remember correctly, Stax explained the initial batches driver failure as small defects in the stators heat / pressure assembly which would them fail when subject to large temperature deltas and/or shock during airmail shipment? I always wonder how accurate such statements are from the various manufacturers and if the tensioning wasn't modified early on (although I presume it should have a drastic impact on the headphone specs and LF response isn't it?).


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Stax Omega series of headphones all have very high spacer thickness to spacer width ratio.  In case of O2 Mk1 it's: 0.5 mm to 78 mm.  That's 1:156.  As for HE60/90, they are around 1:120.  Just imagine you have 2 supporting points and you have a piece of diaphragm hanging in between.  The further the supporting points, the easier the diaphragm to flex.
> 
> Wachara C.


 

 Thx.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This is interesting because we always end up with 2 different answers. Spritzer always mentions the tensioned diaphragm is as stiff as it gets and can't possibly hit the stator, yet you say that the gap is so small that simple quick pressure differential between both side of the diaphragm will make touch the stator.
> 
> If you are correct, then it would seem to me like Stax has changed the tensioning of the diaphragm since initial batches because the latest unit I tried at the store barely made a sound when squeezed. If I remember correctly, Stax explained the initial batches driver failure as small defects in the stators heat / pressure assembly which would them fail when subject to large temperature deltas and/or shock during airmail shipment? I always wonder how accurate such statements are from the various manufacturers and if the tensioning wasn't modified early on (although I presume it should have a drastic impact on the headphone specs and LF response isn't it?).


 
   
  I know that I'm correct, because I have just made a pair of Omega clone.  Mine also farts.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  If you can take off the back grill from an O2 and you try to push the cups together like in the video, you can see the diaphragms touching stators very clearly.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Wachara C.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Someone should inform Audeze.


 

 Maybe they should start buying from Stax's supplier.  Audeze's diaphragms don't seem to be very consistent at all...


----------



## Tilpo

I'm looking to buy a SR-202 or something of a similar price category. I'll buy them used, but I'm wondering if anyone knows how much they are worth? I don't want to pay too much, which shouldn't be a problem since I'm also very patient.

I also need an adaptor, and I already got the impression that there aren't many sonic differences between the different models. However, I would also like to know how much I should spent on this.
Currently there is an eBay ad selling an SRD-5 for $99 with $40 shipping to the Netherlands. Do you think this is a good deal? It's about the best I've seen after I started lurking eBay two weeks ago.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> I'm looking to buy a SR-202 or something of a similar price category. I'll buy them used, but I'm wondering if anyone knows how much they are worth? I don't want to pay too much, which shouldn't be a problem since I'm also very patient.
> I also need an adaptor, and I already got the impression that there aren't many sonic differences between the different models. However, I would also like to know how much I should spent on this.
> Currently there is an eBay ad selling an SRD-5 for $99 with $40 shipping to the Netherlands. Do you think this is a good deal? It's about the best I've seen after I started lurking eBay two weeks ago.


 


  buy a lambda pro from the 80's, it's a great phone. it even smokes my stax 009 out of the water and wind if u remove the yellow covers from the pro.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> buy a lambda pro from the 80's, it's a great phone. it even smokes my stax 009 out of the water and wind if u remove the yellow covers from the pro.


 

 Considering the Lambda Pro are widely considered to be one of the worst Stax phones from the last 30 years......


----------



## Anaxilus

Lol


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Considering the Lambda Pro are widely considered to be one of the worst Stax phones from the last 30 years......


 


  Gotta agree with Beefy, my lambda pros have been sitting in a drawer for a while now. Even out of my srm1/mk2 I prefer the 202, the pros have such a recessed midrange for some reason that I can't listen for long before going back to the Omega 2. (and this is with the foam removed from the earcups)


----------



## sachu

i had a pair of lambda pros..was my first pair of stats. Came bundled with an SRM1-MK2. 
   
  Oh how it made my ears bleed. That headphone got sold fast.


----------



## Lan647

None of you know what you are talking about, the PRO is one of the best headphones I've ever heard, absolutely on the same level as the Omega 2 but different flavor...


----------



## Tilpo

"These are thirty years old, and way outperform brand-new conventional dynamic headphones like the Sennheiser HD 800 and Ultrasone Edition 8 in every way. The Stax SR-Lambda Professional costs a lot less, typically only $300 used."
(source)


I also saw a stereophile review which, although old, did seem in favor of the SR-Lambda Pro. 

So I don't get it. Is it general consensus that they are bad, or not? 

Also, could someone please answer my initial question?


----------



## Lan647

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> "These are thirty years old, and way outperform brand-new conventional dynamic headphones like the Sennheiser HD 800 and Ultrasone Edition 8 in every way. The Stax SR-Lambda Professional costs a lot less, typically only $300 used."
> (source)
> 
> I also saw a stereophile review which, although old, did seem in favor of the SR-Lambda Pro.
> ...


 

 The PRO's sound amazing to my ears, open, airy, completely liquid, grain free and utterly effortless sound. The Omega 2 by comparison feels slightly darker and fleshier which is again a matter of taste. 

 You can find the PRO cheap I think, I know people who bought theirs for 300 dollars or even less. That is a steal compared to the much more expensive SR-007...


----------



## Anaxilus

Yeah, I just got done loling at the Ken Rockwell review.  His iPod must have great synergy w/ the DT990 and ED8s.
   
  All I recall from the Lambda Pros was the treble.  I kept hearing about how special they were and they didn't last long on my head either due to the unbalanced signature.  To each their own.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> "These are thirty years old, and way outperform brand-new conventional dynamic headphones like the Sennheiser HD 800 and Ultrasone Edition 8 in every way. The Stax SR-Lambda Professional costs a lot less, typically only $300 used."
> (source)
> 
> I also saw a stereophile review which, although old, did seem in favor of the SR-Lambda Pro.
> ...


 

  
  it's better then my 009! more open sound, most open sound i ever heard (in headphones) i have hd 800 aswell, just for the record.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





lan647 said:


> None of you know what you are talking about, the PRO is one of the best headphones I've ever heard, absolutely on the same level as the Omega 2 but different flavor...


 


  great it works for you . Wrong to say we don't know what we are saying however. Take your pick from what's on offer and if you are satisfied, great. If not, move on. That's the most logical and rational thing to do. Don't chastise others for airing their views just because it differs from your own.


----------



## Lan647

Quote: 





sachu said:


> great it works for you . Wrong to say we don't know what we are saying however. Take your pick from what's on offer and if you are satisfied, great. If not, move on. That's the most logical and rational thing to do. Don't chastise others for airing their views just because it differs from your own.


 

 I just think it's really weird how you found it "ear-bleeding", its definitely not that type of headphone


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> "These are thirty years old, and way outperform brand-new conventional dynamic headphones like the Sennheiser HD 800 and Ultrasone Edition 8 in every way. The Stax SR-Lambda Professional costs a lot less, typically only $300 used."
> (source)
> 
> I also saw a stereophile review which, although old, did seem in favor of the SR-Lambda Pro.
> ...


 
   
  Ken Rockwell is pretty much a parody of himself at this point. As for Stereophile, have they _ever_ given something a bad review?
   
  Sure, you will find the _occasional_ supporter, but the _consensus_ is definitely that the Pro are not great.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> it's better then my 009! more open sound, most open sound i ever heard (in headphones) i have hd 800 aswell, just for the record.


 

 Anything else important to you?  Just curious, what amps are you running w/ the 009 and 800?


----------



## Tilpo

beefy said:


> Ken Rockwell is pretty much a parody of himself at this point. As for Stereophile, have they _ever_ given something a bad review?
> 
> Sure, you will find the _occasional_ supporter, but the _consensus_ is definitely that the Pro are not great.



I have never heard of Ken Rockwell before, but I'm definitely aware of Stereophile's generally mediocre reviews (although not always). 

Thank you for clarifying. I'm new to electrostatic headphones, and it definitely doesn't help when I can't figure out whether people are trolling or not. 

So getting an SR-202 or SR-207 is my best bet? I'm planning on getting something entry level first, and maybe upgrading later, since the resell value of these things is releatively high when buying used. 
How much should I pay for these? I have no idea what they are worth used.

Also, how much should I shell out on an energizer. Is the $140 including shipping for an SRD-5 I mentioned earlier a reasonable price, or should I wait until something cheaper comes along?


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Anything else important to you?  Just curious, what amps are you running w/ the 009 and 800?


 

  
  i got a modded sentec sca-1 as dynamic amp, my friend has my 009 for burn in time, iv'e heard it on a modded 007tII amp and a modded 006t amp.


----------



## Lan647

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> I have never heard of Ken Rockwell before, but I'm definitely aware of Stereophile's generally mediocre reviews (although not always).
> Thank you for clarifying. I'm new to electrostatic headphones, and it definitely doesn't help when I can't figure out whether people are trolling or not.
> So getting an SR-202 or SR-207 is my best bet? I'm planning on getting something entry level first, and maybe upgrading later, since the resell value of these things is releatively high when buying used.
> How much should I pay for these? I have no idea what they are worth used.
> Also, how much should I shell out on an energizer. Is the $140 including shipping for an SRD-5 I mentioned earlier a reasonable price, or should I wait until something cheaper comes along?


 

 I sure am not trolling, just for the record. But I understand your confusion, I'm extremely confused myself :s A headphone which is one of the absolute best I've heard has a reputation of being mediocre. Crazy world we live in...


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

i understand all kind of confusing. i'm confused myself.


----------



## cat6man

Followup after a seriously long intermission on this topic (~18 months)
   
  I had a 10-12dB imbalance in my old Lambda's that wouldn't go away, so I ended up upgrading to a 404LE that I have been very happy with (a relative term here, given the lure of perfection).  In any case, after 18 months of leaving my Lambda's on the shelf (literally), I decided to plug them in just now and they are perfectly balanced.
  Woo-hoo.
   
  So, time for a quick 15 minute A/B comparison on the SR-T1S, since I couldn't do that before when there was such a large imbalance.  
   
  Biases:  I am a detail and soundstage person above all, as long as the frequency response isn't totally screwed up.  When you listen to lots of live recordings and/or bootlegs, you get used to living with frequency variability.
   
  Without a question, the 404LE is the better can, much more detailed and significantly larger soundstage.  While the Lambda created a soundstage that felt close to the contours of my skull, the 404LE had more widely and smoothly separated instruments and vocals.  The bass was much better on the 4040LE as well, not just in quantity but in quality, where the old pair had a one-note type of bass, the 404LE had a more complex and sophisticated bass response.  No contest, though you (maybe you have better long term aural memory than me....) really don't know it until you do the direct comparison, as I used to be perfectly happy with the Lambda's until I fell in with that head-fi crowd and attended some local canjams (yes, it's your fault, you know who you are!).
   
  Now, having used stax since my college days, I'm on the upgrade path again.  I have a BHSE on order, after which I will get serious about 007 vs. 009 comparisons, and (famous last words),
  then  rest and happily spend the next decade enjoying music.  (I do seem to have about a 10-15 year refresh cycle going on with much of my electronics.................after the cans, time to upgrade the D/A and probably my speakers, but probably not until next year)
   
  When the BSSE gets here, I'll figure out what I need to sell to be able to justify to myself upgrading the cans next.  I hereby promise, even if Stax comes out with a new TOL that improves on the 007/009, I will refrain until at least the next decade.  
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cat6man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





lan647 said:


> I sure am not trolling, just for the record. But I understand your confusion, I'm extremely confused myself :s A headphone which is one of the absolute best I've heard has a reputation of being mediocre. Crazy world we live in...


 

 I have to agree with the others, that the SR-Lambda Pro I have heard (owned 2 pairs) were not very good.  Not terrible sounding, but I thought they had a very recessed midrange and an upper mids/treble etch that was fatiguing to me over time.  I've found the SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Signature and SR-Lambda Nova Signature to be noticeably better sounding vintage phones to my ears than the regular Lambda Pro.  I actually still own an SR-Lambda and Lambda Nova Signature which have less etch than the Lambda Sigs, and think they can still compete with $500-1000 headphones (I like more than the SR-507).  But I gave the Lambda Pro a try twice, and had to sell them each time.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> But I gave the Lambda Pro a try twice, and had to sell them each time.


 

 Reminds me of my Etymotics ER4S.


----------



## schorsch

I'm still and wil be a Lambda Pro / Signature Pro Fan (in combination with SRM Monitor/ED-1 Siganture)
   
  becse they deliver what is on the CD,...
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## treecloud

Greetings Stax fans, joined to confirm suspicions about repairing or replacing a driver (or both) in my classic pair of SR Lambdas. They've been in my overflow closet for years, recently wondering if they would fare better now that hi res is here. Wouldn't be at all surprised. But, one driver has the wrinkles look, kinda doubt it will sound any better than it looks
   
  My avatar is the Airborne RT-4001, a great inexpensive tweeter for the DIY speaker builder.


----------



## Tilpo

treecloud said:


> Greetings Stax fans, joined to confirm suspicions about repairing or replacing a driver (or both) in my classic pair of SR Lambdas. They've been in my overflow closet for years, recently wondering if they would fare better now that hi res is here. Wouldn't be at all surprised. But, one driver has the wrinkles look, kinda doubt it will sound any better than it looks
> 
> My avatar is the Airborne RT-4001, a great inexpensive tweeter for the DIY speaker builder.



Welcome!

While I'm no expert, I am quite sure it would speed up the diagnosis significantly if you were to take a few pictures of the drivers in question.


----------



## spekkio

Anybody know what could cause channel imbalance in a Stax O2 mk1? I've the right channel playing slightly louder than the left. It is noticeable because after a while my right ear gets more tired. 
   
  I've worn the headphones the other way to confirm that it is indeed a headphone problem. I looked at the left side (dismantled everything), couldn't find any damage / debris in the driver. Could it be the wiring to the driver? I looked at it and it was a mess. I couldn't tell. But it still outputs sound, except slightly softer than the right.
   
  Also checked my amp (it is a SRM-252S and thus has no dual channel vol control), and put it to 12 o clock to avoid any potentiometer tracking issues. Not sure what else is wrong...


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





treecloud said:


> Greetings Stax fans, joined to confirm suspicions about repairing or replacing a driver (or both) in my classic pair of SR Lambdas. They've been in my overflow closet for years, recently wondering if they would fare better now that hi res is here. Wouldn't be at all surprised. But, one driver has the wrinkles look, kinda doubt it will sound any better than it looks
> 
> My avatar is the Airborne RT-4001, a great inexpensive tweeter for the DIY speaker builder.


 


  You can't actually see the driver membrane - you are looking at the dust covers. These can be wrinkled, without being damaged. As long as they aren't torn. Is there any channel imbalance or problems with either driver?


----------



## treecloud

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> You can't actually see the driver membrane - you are looking at the dust covers. These can be wrinkled, without being damaged. As long as they aren't torn. Is there any channel imbalance or problems with either driver?


 


  Ah, thanks John. I had been afraid to power them up. They seem to work perfectly. And on closer inspection I see both dust covers are slack and wrinkled, but I don't hear anything I would attribute to that. But I do remember why they were in a closet! Rip your head off thin and bright. I have the SRD-7 SB on an old NAD receiver, and after a quick and dirty EQ first impression is very positive. The drivers will take bass EQ without overload or going muddy. Resolution across the range is excellent.
   
  I don't know what to attribute the skewed balance to. Sort of doubt it was the NAD or cheap Panny disc player. That leaves the energizer and phones. First guess is I won't find a way to listen to these things without pretty serious EQ. I would love to hear opinions from others familiar with this phone.


----------



## musicman59

Yamas finally got back with my dealer. The SR009 will not be in stock for 2 to 3 weeks more but the 727II balck face is in stock....si the wait continues
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## arnaud

spekkio said:


> Anybody know what could cause channel imbalance in a Stax O2 mk1? I've the right channel playing slightly louder than the left. It is noticeable because after a while my right ear gets more tired.
> 
> I've worn the headphones the other way to confirm that it is indeed a headphone problem. I looked at the left side (dismantled everything), couldn't find any damage / debris in the driver. Could it be the wiring to the driver? I looked at it and it was a mess. I couldn't tell. But it still outputs sound, except slightly softer than the right.
> 
> Also checked my amp (it is a SRM-252S and thus has no dual channel vol control), and put it to 12 o clock to avoid any potentiometer tracking issues. Not sure what else is wrong...




The membrane is no longer holding the charge as it used to? Or one of the stators is no longer driven (cable / connector issue)?


----------



## arnaud

musicman59 said:


> Yamas finally got back with my dealer. The SR009 will not be in stock for 2 to 3 weeks more but the 727II balck face is in stock....si the wait continues
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Congrats on the purchase! Somehow I thought you weren't a fan of stax sound, per some posts in other threads, I must have mistaken you for another headfier. The 1 month wait between dealer order and delivery feels like a built to order! Stax is probably not keeping much inventory on its shelves and yama even less...

The US is probably quite a big market for stax, you guys deserve better than this service.


----------



## dwk

I don't have a lot of content to contribute, but I just picked up a second hand SRS-3050 set (SR-303 and SRM-323II).  Not much seat time on them yet - hooked up directly to my new NAD M51 dac, and sounding pretty good. Maybe missing a bit of propulsive energy in percussion (e.g Rodrigo y Gabriella), but I'm pretty happy so far.


----------



## musicman59

arnaud said:


> Congrats on the purchase! Somehow I thought you weren't a fan of stax sound, per some posts in other threads, I must have mistaken you for another headfier. The 1 month wait between dealer order and delivery feels like a built to order! Stax is probably not keeping much inventory on its shelves and yama even less...
> The US is probably quite a big market for stax, you guys deserve better than this service.



I was not really until I listened to the SR-009 with the A10. I really like that combo but can not go all the way there right now so I am taking a first step with the SRM-727II based on SillySally recommendation.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> you guys deserve better than this service.


 

 No kidding, though I don't know how big our market is for them. I was recently very surprised to see a US market O2 Mk1 pop up on Audiogon, for example. 99% of the ones I've seen for sale have been JDM imports.


----------



## Anaxilus

Stax market is just small period.  It's a premium luxury item w/o direct competition.  If you don't like it what other Stat maker are you going to buy from?  Otherwise Koss has great service!!  Try driving over your 009 w/ a Hummer and sending them in for warranty.


----------



## catscratch

I think Stax's distribution model and international pricing play a role in keeping them small.

If Edifier have any sense - and they've hinted that they do - they'll revamp the whole ridiculous distribution network.

P.S. If I were for instance to get a 009 from PriceJapan, what are my options if it goes wrong? I had problems with Stax stuff from overseas before, and Stax told me to take it to Yamas while Yamas told me to take it to Stax, and pretty much that was that.


----------



## catscratch

[duplicate]


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> P.S. If I were for instance to get a 009 from PriceJapan, what are my options if it goes wrong? I had problems with Stax stuff from overseas before, and Stax told me to take it to Yamas while Yamas told me to take it to Stax, and pretty much that was that.


 

 The Japanese warranty is still valid. Many of the import shops like PJ or Bluetin should be able to assist you in getting it back to Japan for service.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I was not really until I listened to the SR-009 with the A10. I really like that combo but can not go all the way there right now so I am taking a first step with the SRM-727II based on SillySally recommendation.


 

  
  I let my son (yes he is over 18) who is into music try the stax combo, he was simple amazed at the clarity, precision, separation from my stax combo, along with the bass impact of the drums and cymbals.
   
  One of the music videos was Girls on film by Duran Duran (uncut), very nice drumming on that MV..


----------



## shimmer n roar

I envy your son and you even more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The SR-009 is one headphone that I'd love to hear.


----------



## Noirceur

Hello, I am French, who compared the 009 with the Ultrasone Pro-2900 (a open Pro-900) ? bass impact is the same?


----------



## treecloud

Well I guess I got lucky, these old phones work and sound great. I wanted to drive them with my computer system so I bought the little Topping TP 30 usb/dac/amp, used the EQ function in J River (which apparently is processed internally at 64 bits), and 10 bands enough precision to get the job done. Driven flat with files and the Topping the Lambda did sound quite a bit better than the old NAD receiver and cheap Panny DVD player, but it still needed the EQ. Wasn't hard to get a good balance. The Lambda's resolution is amazing!

  
  Quote: 





treecloud said:


> Ah, thanks John. I had been afraid to power them up. They seem to work perfectly. And on closer inspection I see both dust covers are slack and wrinkled, but I don't hear anything I would attribute to that. But I do remember why they were in a closet! Rip your head off thin and bright. I have the SRD-7 SB on an old NAD receiver, and after a quick and dirty EQ first impression is very positive. The drivers will take bass EQ without overload or going muddy. Resolution across the range is excellent.
> 
> I don't know what to attribute the skewed balance to. Sort of doubt it was the NAD or cheap Panny disc player. That leaves the energizer and phones. First guess is I won't find a way to listen to these things without pretty serious EQ. I would love to hear opinions from others familiar with this phone.


 


   


  Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> You can't actually see the driver membrane - you are looking at the dust covers. These can be wrinkled, without being damaged. As long as they aren't torn. Is there any channel imbalance or problems with either driver?


----------



## treecloud

I thought I'd add another note or two now that I've been listening to this set-up for several days.
   
  First off I was having a hard time remembering exactly how long ago I bought this Stax phone and Energizer. By using the Wiki Stax product history page here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Stax_products I was able to find the date both the Lambda and SRD-7 SB were introduced, 1979, making them 33 years old! I bought them used at Stereo Exchange in NYC in the mid 80's as near as I can remember. I doubt they have all that many hours of use on them due to the condition they were in when I bought them, and the fact I found them too bright then, as now, but had no way to correct the FR distortion back then without the cure being as bad or worse than the disease!
   
  Second note is a riff on how I personally appreciate how far digital has come since the introduction of CDs. It has really come to fruition in so many ways, exemplified in my modest little system of 1) external hard drive of all my (ripped) CDs (that I carry with me when I'm going anywhere for very long), 2) laptop, 3) J River Media Center (with EQ that I had not used before this), and last 4) Topping TP-30! (the quality of this little guy was the real surprise).
   
  I don't see too much on the Topping here where Head-Fi'ers live, so a sub note caveat that may have positive implication for certain Stax users? I haven't bothered with the head phone output jack (too busy listening to the Stax, because) I have the SRD-7 connected to the speaker outputs. From the little that's out there on this tiny amp I would not be surprised if driving a Stax energizer is the best Fi one can get out of this very inexpensive little usb T-amp combo. It really sounds good to my ears.
   
  Last, the sound of the phones themselves. Wow. I had hopes I could get a cheap but good fix to my "headphone problem" by reviving the Lambdas, and I got more than I bargained for. I've been an avid DIY speaker guy for years, and have let headphone listening go by the way side for the most part. I have a pair of Westone in ear phones that sound darn good, and convenient. Also a pair of Sennheiser HD 595s I never been able to work up too much enthusiasm for, and a pair of Fostex T50RP that I can hear potential in when I EQ them a little. Pretty good phones. My last phones years ago were the 1st model Yamaha Orthodynamic HP-1, which are beyond repair and gone to headphone heaven.
   
  I've long been a fan of full range electrostatic speakers having owned several classic models. In addition, creating multi-way speaker systems of the best sub components available to the DIYer was a door that opened as a result of the DEQX DAC/crossover/EQ all-in-one box (with software) that is like Photoshop for audio. It's takes a while, but it's fun, and teaches a lot about audio if you have patience and perseverance.
   
  All that forgoing to get to the bottom line, this Stax Lambda 33 year old design, fed a clean signal and corrected for fr distortion, is my new reference for overall sound quality. Which is a very pleasant surprise.
   

  
  Quote: 





treecloud said:


> Well I guess I got lucky, these old phones work and sound great. I wanted to drive them with my computer system so I bought the little Topping TP 30 usb/dac/amp, used the EQ function in J River (which apparently is processed internally at 64 bits), and 10 bands enough precision to get the job done. Driven flat with files and the Topping the Lambda did sound quite a bit better than the old NAD receiver and cheap Panny DVD player, but it still needed the EQ. Wasn't hard to get a good balance. The Lambda's resolution is amazing!


----------



## cjfrbw

I think my 507 played through 300b amp is better in overall quality than my original normal bias lambda, with 507 having more intense tone color and bass, but not as seductive or involving as the original Lambda, qualities that are difficult to describe.  The original Lambda is no slouch.
   
  I actually find the sound of my original low bias lamda played through trannie and 300b to be similar to the  Orpheus HE 90 setup I heard at the NoCal show, in terms of sweetness and seductiveness. (caveats for show conditions etc. applying)


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





treecloud said:


> I thought I'd add another note or two now that I've been listening to this set-up for several days.
> 
> First off I was having a hard time remembering exactly how long ago I bought this Stax phone and Energizer. By using the Wiki Stax product history page here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Stax_products I was able to find the date both the Lambda and SRD-7 SB were introduced, 1979, making them 33 years old! I bought them used at Stereo Exchange in NYC in the mid 80's as near as I can remember. I doubt they have all that many hours of use on them due to the condition they were in when I bought them, and the fact I found them too bright then, as now, but had no way to correct the FR distortion back then without the cure being as bad or worse than the disease!
> 
> ...


 
  I've got a DEQX  too, love it.  I use it to tri-amp Magneplanar MG 3.6's, 
   
  It's the software that makes DEQX really special.  It goes way beyond just flattening out the frequency response of  the system, it works magic in the time domain. It corrects for phase, group delay and impulse response anomalies. The depth, imaging and 'rightness' of my MG 3.6's with the DEQX is really special.  (Maybe I should say really _SPATIAL_.)
   
  I have wanted to try using the DEQX algorithm with  headphones....I have to build a dummy head in order to make my measurements.  I have started to build a measuring head into which the calibrated DEQX mic can fit..... someday I'll finish this project.  I don't anticipate actually USING the DEQX with headphones for my headphone listening, I just want to see if / how it works.  Of course when I finally getting around to this, I will write it up here someplace.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


milosz said:


> I've got a DEQX  too, love it.  I use it to tri-amp Magneplanar MG 3.6's,
> 
> It's the software that makes DEQX really special.  It goes way beyond just flattening out the frequency response of  the system, it works magic in the time domain. It corrects for phase, group delay and impulse response anomalies. The depth, imaging and 'rightness' of my MG 3.6's with the DEQX is really special.  (Maybe I should say really _SPATIAL_.)
> 
> I have wanted to try using the DEQX algorithm with  headphones....I have to build a dummy head in order to make my measurements.  I have started to build a measuring head into which the calibrated DEQX mic can fit..... someday I'll finish this project.  I don't anticipate actually USING the DEQX with headphones for my headphone listening, I just want to see if / how it works.  Of course when I finally getting around to this, I will write it up here someplace.


 
   
  *Googled*
   
  That product looks dope.  I can definitely see a Lambda plus DEQX being "reference" if it works as advertised.  Hmm, if only I didn't just buy a dynamic amplifier with no resale value.


----------



## milosz

I am curious to see what corrections the DEQX will want to do to a headphone.  I'm guessing it will just make some frequency response adjustments, and basically leave the time domain stuff alone- 'cause my guess is that any decent headphone has good group delay & phase-vs-frequency characteristics already.  Therefore, I don't think that the results from using the DEQX on headphones will be as dramatic as using them on speakers.
   
  Also, one of the advantages of using them with 2- or 3-way speakers is that the DEQX gives you linear-phase crossovers with up to 300 dB per octave slopes.  Using a really steep slope can make quite a difference in sound- you have treble, for example, ONLY coming from the tweeter, no attenuated treble coming from the slower / more prone to energy storage midrange driver as you would have in a system with, say, an 18 dB-per-octave passive crossover. This really makes a difference for imaging and so on- there are fewer "time cues" coming from both mid and tweeter driver, at different times- but this sort of benefit wouldn't apply to headphones 'cause there's no crossover.
   
  Anyway,  I WILL try it some day and write it up.
   
  I already have a styrofoam head, AND a rubber ear (pinnae) so that's a good start on a low-rent measuring head....
   

   
  (My ex-wife would probably agree that I have a styrofoam head....)


----------



## lyricsuite

Woo Audio WEE - Issues!
   
  I haven't contributed much here despite lurking for a long time, but thought it would be useful to share my WOO experiences and to ask for any help the forum could give. I paid for a WEE with normal and pro bias sockets back in December. The first unit I received had something seriously wrong and buzzed loudly, so it went back across the Atlantic (I'm in the UK) and was 'repaired'. The repaired unit still hummed (but much more quietly) and following an exchange with Jack eventually went back a second time, when I was told Woo could detect no fault. It's now _finally_ back in the UK and the issue is as follows:
   
  I have _no_ hum from any other equipment (Stax 4070, 407, and original Lambda, SRM-T1S and SRD 7 Mk2)
  Woo WEE hums from pro bias port (loudest on 407, and only slightly audible on the less sensitive 4070)
  Woo WEE hums when connected to sources _and when running completely by itself_
  Hum is not volume dependent and is a harmonic of 50Hz power
  Hum only happens when the bias circuit is on
   
  I have tried the unit in three different locations and think it may have been quieter in one, so do wonder whether there is a mains issue to which it is super sensitive...
   
*Woo will not help any further at this point* (and have treated me like some sort of idiot, which doesn't seem very characteristic). I am a professional musician with 25+ years of recording experience and have never had a problem with my audio gear... 
   
  Any advice would be very welcome!


----------



## n3rdling

Is the WEE plugged directly into the wall or via step up transformer?  What about the T1S/SRD7?


----------



## milosz

I finally got around to trying the SRD-7 I bought in late 2011.  I'm fairly new to Stax, having bought an SRM-T1 and pair of Lambda Pro Signatures in September 2011, followed quickly by an SRM1-MK2, SR-007, and SRD-7.  Also a pair of Koss ESP-950's with Stax cables.
   
  I've been listening to the Stax and Koss headphones through the SRM-T1  mostly.  Now I finally got around to hooking up this SRD-7, using a Tim Rawson clone of a First Watt F3 JFET amp. So far I've only listened to the Koss ESP-950's on this set up, but- wow! -  GREAT sound. For some reason I was thinking a transformer would sound a lot worse than the direct amp, but it really sounds _very_ good.  The Koss seem to sound more open than on the Stax amps. 
   
  Haven't listened to my Stax 'phones on this setup yet.  I want to set up the SRM-T1 off the same DAC as this F3 / SRD-7 setup so I can make a fairly direct comparison, once I set up the SRM-T1  I will do some comparison listening.
   
   
  Using a Musical Fidelity VDAC at the moment, with a Little Dot MK III as a line stage.  Going for that tube sound-  the VDAC sounds a bit euphonic, and the Little Dot MK III does as well.
   
  I'll try some other DACs later.


----------



## lyricsuite

Thanks for the reply!
   
  The WEE is directly into the wall as is everything else - there's a switch on it to shunt between 115 and 230v.
   
  Neil
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Is the WEE plugged directly into the wall or via step up transformer?  What about the T1S/SRD7?


----------



## Michgelsen

Are the sockets in your house grounded?
  Have you tried grounding the case of the unit by touching it with your fingers, or connecting a wire from the case to a radiator pipe or something else that could serve as a ground? If not, try it, and listen if the hum changes. If it does, it is likely a grounding issue.
  If it is a grounding issue, it would make sense that Woo cannot detect a fault, because grounding issues are caused by the specific setup of the user and can unfortunately be hard to solve sometimes.
   
  Another thing, do you have a radio/tv cable plugged in to your system? This could cause grounding issues as well, so try unplugging that too.


----------



## DaveBSC

Ground problem does seem the most likely. Transformers will also hum if there's DC present on the line, but I would think that would make the SRD7 hum also. Somebody, Muppetface I think, had hum from one of her Stax amps, she had to tie the grounding post on the back of the case to the outlet cover.


----------



## Audiogalore

Okay this sounds like the classic _*"ground loop problem". *_Remember the SRD7 has a two wire AC output and the WEE has three wire output. There is a neutral/ground and a AC hot wire with the WEE. The stax has a neutral and a AC hot wire only; no ground return.
   
  Try lifting the ground from the WEE, if this eliminate your hum then you need to find your _*"ground loop problem*_". Interconnects are grounded at the shell which gets daisy chained from your source>pre-amp if used>amp and this most likely is causing your hum!
   
  Enjoy music!


----------



## spritzer

I'm not sure how the WEE bias is generated but if they are using a non-transformer based solution then you can always expect some hum.  Try reversing the AC polarity and see if it helps.  This is pretty much impossible with the UK plugs but if you have any EU cables and adapters then it will work.  Now if there is a transformer in there then there could be a grounding issue otherwise the transformers should be dead quiet.  This all assuming the amp isn't causing the hum as many tube amps (and even SS amps) have low level hum which is further amplified by the transformers.


----------



## West726

I'm running my SR-009s through an SRM-600 (and occasionally through a realiser).  I have a good source.   I really like the sound I'm getting now.  How much will I benefit from a more expensive amp?
   
  I've read pretty much all there is to read about various amps here.  I've listened to the 009s in various locations through all the major STAX amps.  What I can't tell is how much better, say, the Woo WES is.  I know that people approach these issues differently, this is VERY subjective, and nobody has my ears but me, but I wonder if someone here can make a comparison of amps based on the following comparison of headphones.
   
  When I bought the SR-007s, I thought they were great.  But when I first heard the 009s, even standing up in a Tokyo electronics store hearing them out of a 727 with lots of noise around me, I was floored.  The difference was so huge that I could easily justify the purchase, and sold the 007s.  The 007s were a 9 for me out of 10, but when I heard the 009s, I realized that the 007s had to be an 8/10 because the 009s were 10/10.  They wrecked the curve.  I think lots of people feel the same.
   
  So now the question:  For those of you who have heard both STAX amps and higher end amps (especially WES, but also BHSE, KGSS, etc.), especially with the 009s, is (a) the difference between a decent STAX amp and a higher end amp as stark/big as (b) the difference between the 007s and the 009s?


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





west726 said:


> I'm running my SR-009s through an SRM-600 (and occasionally through a realiser).  I have a good source.   I really like the sound I'm getting now.  How much will I benefit from a more expensive amp?
> 
> I've read pretty much all there is to read about various amps here.  I've listened to the 009s in various locations through all the major STAX amps.  What I can't tell is how much better, say, the Woo WES is.  I know that people approach these issues differently, this is VERY subjective, and nobody has my ears but me, but I wonder if someone here can make a comparison of amps based on the following comparison of headphones.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Not unless the 009's actually "go to 11".


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





west726 said:


> So now the question:  For those of you who have heard both STAX amps and higher end amps (especially WES, but also BHSE, KGSS, etc.), especially with the 009s, is (a) the difference between a decent STAX amp and a higher end amp as stark/big as (b) the difference between the 007s and the 009s?


 

 By most accounts, the amp seems to be much more important with the 007 than with the 009. The 007 sounds a bit flabby and a bit dull with anything less than a SRM-717, and it only really comes alive with the very best. Were you also using the 007 with the SRM-600? That's definitely not enough amp for the 007. The 009 seems to be less voltage hungry in general, and may actually benefit from the coloration of an amp like the 600 vs. neutral amps like the BHSE.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> By most accounts, the amp seems to be much more important with the 007 than with the 009. The 007 sounds a bit flabby and a bit dull with anything less than a SRM-717, and it only really comes alive with the very best. Were you also using the 007 with the SRM-600? That's definitely not enough amp for the 007. The 009 seems to be less voltage hungry in general, and may actually benefit from the coloration of an amp like the 600 vs. neutral amps like the BHSE.


 

 The 009 sounds brighter on the 600 than on the 717. Still a 727 might be an even better synergetic match than the 717.


----------



## West726

Quote: 





padam said:


> The 009 sounds brighter on the 600 than on the 717. Still a 727 might be an even better synergetic match than the 717.


 


  Yes, I appreciate that -- and reasonable ears can differ.  But the question is:  is the difference between the Stax amps (600/717/727) and a Woo/BHSE/etc. as dramatic as the difference between the 007 and the 009?


----------



## n3rdling

No


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





west726 said:


> I'm running my SR-009s through an SRM-600 (and occasionally through a realiser).  I have a good source.   I really like the sound I'm getting now.  How much will I benefit from a more expensive amp?
> 
> So now the question:  For those of you who have heard both STAX amps and higher end amps (especially WES, but also BHSE, KGSS, etc.), especially with the 009s, is (a) the difference between a decent STAX amp and a higher end amp as stark/big as (b) the difference between the 007s and the 009s?


 

 The biggest differences you'll hear with the 009s on a top-tier amp are tighter bass and a bigger soundstage. You will hear the difference immediately, but the question is whether those types of benefits are worth it to you.
   
  It was for me. I'm listening to the 9's on my HV as I type this.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





west726 said:


> I'm running my SR-009s through an SRM-600 (and occasionally through a realiser).  I have a good source.   I really like the sound I'm getting now.  How much will I benefit from a more expensive amp?
> 
> I've read pretty much all there is to read about various amps here.  I've listened to the 009s in various locations through all the major STAX amps.  What I can't tell is how much better, say, the Woo WES is.  I know that people approach these issues differently, this is VERY subjective, and nobody has my ears but me, but I wonder if someone here can make a comparison of amps based on the following comparison of headphones.
> 
> ...


 

 The more I use my SR-009/SRM-727/Realiser (with AIX PRIR's) combo and try other amps with this combo, the more I think its just not worth the price of going to a high end amp (WES,LL,BHSE), imo. I am sure the WES, LL, BHSE, SRM-727 are all fine amps, but when you use them for the SR-009's it just becomes a matter of what flavor you like best, imo.
  As far as the bass goes using the SR-009/SRM-727 combo, the bass is just fine imo, its just right.
   
  Plus I like the smaller foot print of the 727, no tubes and runs cooler. But the 727 is very plain looking, so if you want a amp that will catch the eye and impress your friends, then get the high end tube amps. I my case the only thing that impresses me is the sound that I hear coming from the 009's.


----------



## pachku

> But the question is:  is the difference between the Stax amps (600/717/727) and a Woo/BHSE/etc. as dramatic as the difference between the 007 and the 009?


 
   
  No. Even on my old 007t, the 009 sounds fine and way better than the 007. BHSE or Aristaeus are arguably much better amps, but the difference (with the 009) is smaller than the step up from the 007 to the 009 (IMHO, YMMV). I'm sure 727/009 is a good combination, but it sure wouldn't cure upgraditis


----------



## pkshan

I found some tricks of T1S:
   
  1.The "Input 1" rca jacks sound better than "Input 2"
   
  2.Don't push down any input selector buttons in the front panel. those green leds are making noise.
  the Input 1 will still working after you release both buttons.
   
  3.In the back panel, turn the "XLR RCA" switch to "XLR", even you are using RCA IC's
   
  The sound will be more transparent & smoother
   
 
  [size=16px !important]  噪音
*名詞* _噪聲, 噪音, 噪, 聲, 音, 響聲, 聲響, 響, 吵鬧聲, 喧, 聲息, 嘩, 嚆, 籟, 胡扯, 豗, 唎_
*動詞* _吵, 響, 鬧, 嚷_
[/size]


----------



## n3rdling

Lol


----------



## lyricsuite

Thanks for all the replies to my WEE issues - really appreciated!
   
  I've tried lifting the ground, and reversing AC polarity, without luck. I'm pretty confident this is not a ground loop problem as I've tried all of the obvious steps. To be honest I'm quite confused at this point...


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> The more I use my SR-009/SRM-727/Realiser (with AIX PRIR's) combo and try other amps with this combo, the more I think its just not worth the price of going to a high end amp (WES,LL,BHSE), imo. I am sure the WES, LL, BHSE, SRM-727 are all fine amps, but when you use them for the SR-009's it just becomes a matter of what flavor you like best, imo.


 

  Have you actually heard these amps or are you just speculating? Given how subjective the hearsay impressions of others can be, speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience.


----------



## bralk

This solved a similar hum problem for me
   
  http://sjostromaudio.com/pages/hifi-projects/36-hifi-projects/86-dct01-the-dc-trap-high-end-style?start=1
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Whats the going fair price for a used stax SRM-1/Mk2?  The one with both pro and normal jacks. I've checked the site, but most people remove the price of sold items.


----------



## padam

400$ (+/- depending on condition early/late version, etc.)


----------



## sachu

I've seen posts going both ways when it comes to differences between amps driving the 009 as well as scale of differences between 007 and 009. 

For me personally the amp makes a huge difference whether it is the 009 or the 007 that is being driven. The 009 especially changes dramatically from one amp to another.

Bear in mind the sources for the amps were not the same one when making these observations.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Lol


 

 To say the least.  So the amp sounds bettter with the - side floating and the amp thus not working correctly.  Ohh and LED's generating noise is just precious, the amp should be turned off as well then since it has LED's in the circuit...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Thanks!  any comments as to how this would compare to the exstata hybrid?  using sr-lambdas.

  
  Quote: 





padam said:


> 400$ (+/- depending on condition early/late version, etc.)


----------



## padam

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Thanks!  any comments as to how this would compare to the exstata hybrid?  using sr-lambdas.


 
  The SRM1Mk2 Pro is more neutral exstata is darker. I would probably go with SRM1Mk2 (or maybe wait for a cheaper SRMT1)
   
  In any case, the SR-Lambda is a great phone.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote:


tmoney said:


> Have you actually heard these amps or are you just speculating? Given how subjective the hearsay impressions of others can be, speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience.


 

 I'm wondering as well.


----------



## iAmCalm

I scored a pair of Stax Gammas with the SRD6SB through the family tree.
   
  I need an amp.
 Any recommendations?
 I was thinking something along the line of a Fiio A1, the Audioengine N22, or the Nuforce Icon Amp.
  Hoping to find the balance between cost and quality.
  The N22 and the Icon cost about 2x the A1.
  And the N22 is the only one of the three with a headphone out (Need speaker binding posts for the SRD6SB).
   
  Anyone know if there's be a noticeable difference in quality between the A1 and the others?
  Then there's the question of Longevity... If I want new headphones...  
   
  comments and suggestions welcome.


----------



## MohawkUS

iamcalm said:


> I scored a pair of Stax Gammas with the SRD6SB through the family tree.
> 
> I need an amp.
> Any recommendations?
> ...




 I'm using a vintage Sherwood receiver as an amp. If you don't need digital inputs you can get a really amazing sound on the cheap with vintage gear. I paid something like $40 for the receiver I'm using and it sounds great, built like a tank too. The headphone out of the Sherwood sounds better to me than my Burson 160DS, though I'm only able to test it with my $50 portables at the moment. Vocals and drums sound like they are in the room with me when listening through the Stax and I'm listening through a budget CD player I dug out of the attic with black metal that was originally recorded on an 8-track.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Have you actually heard these amps or are you just speculating? Given how subjective the hearsay impressions of others can be, speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience.


 


  LL, WES, 323 and of-course the 727.
   
  Do you really think in my rig a BHSE is really go to make much of a difference, except about $4000 more and a different flavor.
  Give me a break, I am in affect hearing Binaural recordings and MCH, are you?
  You are right about "speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience". So are you just speculating?


----------



## iAmCalm

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> I'm using a vintage Sherwood receiver as an amp. If you don't need digital inputs you can get a really amazing sound on the cheap with vintage gear. I paid something like $40 for the receiver I'm using and it sounds great, built like a tank too. The headphone out of the Sherwood sounds better to me than my Burson 160DS, though I'm only able to test it with my $50 portables at the moment. Vocals and drums sound like they are in the room with me when listening through the Stax and I'm listening through a budget CD player I dug out of the attic with black metal that was originally recorded on an 8-track.


 

 Very interesting.
  I have a ~20 year old pioneer receiver in plastic in the basement that I was ignoring due to the "turd" factor.
  it is an unreliable turd, which I had deemed unworthy to push signal through the Stax.
  Perhaps I should just pull it out for testing.
   
  Then again the record store (yeah, we have one still) down the street consigns clean vintage gear.  I could pick up a piece there, but he doesn't even know what he has and is asking too much for everything.  I thought i'd be better off buying something new, with a warranty, and that won't take up half my living room...
  maybe I can bring Mr record store into reality and pick up on of his Marantz pieces.


----------



## jaycalgary

Is this still the High-End Audio Forum?


----------



## iAmCalm

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Is this still the High-End Audio Forum?


 
   
  Quote: 





carl said:


> By popular demand I'm starting a new thread for our discussions on all things Stax and electrostatic due to the unwieldily number of pages of that thread. This thread should be looked on as a direct continuation of the previous thread.
> 
> Keeping a broad scope with regards to subject matter has served us well up to now, so feel free to discuss anything related to Stax and electrostatic/electret headphones and their amplification in general.
> 
> ...


 

 as instructed, I'm having fun talking about Stax


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





pachku said:


> No. Even on my old 007t, the 009 sounds fine and way better than the 007. BHSE or Aristaeus are arguably much better amps, but the difference (with the 009) is smaller than the step up from the 007 to the 009 (IMHO, YMMV). I'm sure 727/009 is a good combination, but it sure wouldn't cure upgraditis


 
   
  I finally got a chance to listen to the 009's and on every Stax amp I tried they were better than the 007's.  The interesting thing is even on my underpowered NOS re-tubed SRM-006t, they were far superior to my ears than the 007's paired with both the 007t and 727.  I surmise that going upstream to a higher quality non-Stax amp would certainly make a big difference, but in terms of value within the Stax product lines I feel the 009's paired with the admittedly lesser amp trumps the 007/007t and 007/727 combinations for similar money.  And to think I had been trying to be disciplined and limit my choices to 507's with the 007's as a stretch.  Things are more complicated than ever now.
   
  EDIT:  For me, the one area where the 007's have an edge on the 009's is the fit.  Fit-wise and comfort-wise I prefer the old set up.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


sillysally said:


> LL, WES, 323 and of-course the 727.
> 
> Do you really think in my rig a BHSE is really go to make much of a difference, except about $4000 more and a different flavor.
> Give me a break, I am in affect hearing Binaural recordings and MCH, are you?
> You are right about "speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience". So are you just speculating?


 

 I think you missed the point of his post.  In effect, he's saying that we can't decide for you.  The whole "is X worth the cost?" question has a subjective answer.  Based on your listening experience, you've already decided the upgrade to a LL and WES is not worth the cost.  However, you'll only know if a BHSE or KGSSHV are worth the cost for the improvement they confer to your system once you've had a chance to hear them.
   
  I'd expect a person with the megabucks equipment like you to know the deal with diminishing returns.  This is exactly that, albeit to a greater degree.  I don't believe in compromising on sound quality based on cost, so I'd say it's worth it.  If you get into DIY, the KGSSHV is excellent value for money (would probably cost you less to build than you spent on your Liquid Fire), and (IMO) represents a marked improvement over a 727.


----------



## TMoney

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> LL, WES, 323 and of-course the 727.
> 
> Do you really think in my rig a BHSE is really go to make much of a difference, except about $4000 more and a different flavor.
> Give me a break, I am in affect hearing Binaural recordings and MCH, are you?
> You are right about "speculation isn't much of a substitute for experience". So are you just speculating?


 
   
  Read my post again. I didn't imply anything about the how the BH or KGSSHV would perform in your system.
   
  The point of my post was that if you haven't heard either of the Gilmore amps then why do you continue to comment on them? As you've heard the LL, WES, 323 and 727, I obviously have no issue with you commenting on them.
   
  If you delete the references to the amps you haven't heard from your original post, you get something like this (which is a perfectly valid opinion):
   
  Quote:



> The more I use my SR-009/SRM-727/Realiser (with AIX PRIR's) combo and try other amps with this combo, the more I think its just not worth the price of going to a high end amp (WES,LL), imo. I am sure the WES, LL, SRM-727 are all fine amps, but when you use them for the SR-009's it just becomes a matter of what flavor you like best, imo.


----------



## Headdie

Good morning Houston, I need help !
   
  I took the plunge and opened the SR-X/Mk3 driver. I mean, not just the earcup, but the driver (diaphragm and stators).
   
  I did it because the sound wasn't up to my expectations. My goal was (and still is) to clean inside and recoat the diaphragm.
   
  My first surprises were :
   
  1. The diaphragm was firmly stuck to one stator. I mean stuck like glue...
   
  2. There's a couple of small holes in the diaphragm
   
  So what's the next step guys :
   
  a. Should I simply clean everything, recoat on both sides of the diaphragm and close it ?
   
  b. Should I replace the diaphragm because of the small holes ?
   
  The membrane is still solid...
   
  Waiting for instructions...
   
  Thank you,
   
  [Edit]
   
  The second driver was also with some surprises :
   
  a.The diaphragm was also "glued" to a stator
   
  b. It was more damaged than the first one, so I'll try to change it
   
  c. There's a kind of large foil ring that's missing, at least compared to the other driver
   
  I wasn't happy with the sound, but after seeing that, I'm amazed that there was sound coming out of it period !
   
  Honestly, I don't understand how it could be :-o


----------



## jaycalgary

Good luck. I think what you are trying to do is a very very high skill level especially to do properly. Cheaper to buy another pair or a driver from a broken pair.


----------



## Headdie

Hi jaycalgary,
   
  With a bit of help, I'm pretty confident to do it right and it's fun 
   
  Effectively, plan B would be to get parts from a broken pair...


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





tmoney said:


> Read my post again. I didn't imply anything about the how the BH or KGSSHV would perform in your system.
> 
> The point of my post was that if you haven't heard either of the Gilmore amps then why do you continue to comment on them? As you've heard the LL, WES, 323 and 727, I obviously have no issue with you commenting on them.
> 
> ...


 

 With all do respect to Mr. Gilmore, his design amps are just one more option, one more flavor. Matter of fact the BHSE (yes I saw you cleverly used BH) is not his complete design, so in the case of the Gilmore designed amps they are only as good as the DIY builder.
  My whole point is for those of us that don't want to take the time to build a Gilmore amp, or any amp for that matter. Plus the fact that a audio rig is only as good as its weakest link, that is why I say the combo of the 009/727/Realiser (PRIR's from AIX) in my system is very good. Now consider the cost, my complete rig cost less than the price of a BHSE/009 that I priced out.
  My rig is tuned for my ears only, and it has been my experience you have to try other components in your home to hear what suite's you taste best. So just because the component is expensive or in this case a Gilmore design doesn't mean I am going to like it.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> I think you missed the point of his post.  In effect, he's saying that we can't decide for you.  The whole "is X worth the cost?" question has a subjective answer.  Based on your listening experience, you've already decided the upgrade to a LL and WES is not worth the cost.  However, you'll only know if a BHSE or KGSSHV are worth the cost for the improvement they confer to your system once you've had a chance to hear them.
> 
> I'd expect a person with the megabucks equipment like you to know the deal with diminishing returns.  This is exactly that, albeit to a greater degree.  I don't believe in compromising on sound quality based on cost, so I'd say it's worth it.  If you get into DIY, the KGSSHV is excellent value for money (would probably cost you less to build than you spent on your Liquid Fire), and (IMO) represents a marked improvement over a 727.


 
  Of-course I know the deal with diminishing returns, and you are probably right about the cost of the KGSSHV on a DIY basis, but I don't want to spend the time doing it.
  That is one of the reasons why I got the Realiser and took the time to fly out to LA (AIX sound studio for my PRIR's) and back, so I could have a rig that is tuned for my ears.
  Sure if Justin wants to send me a BHSE for about one or two weeks, I would love to try it with my system.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





headdie said:


> Good morning Houston, I need help !
> 
> I took the plunge and opened the SR-X/Mk3 driver. I mean, not just the earcup, but the driver (diaphragm and stators).
> 
> ...


 

 I wouldn't bother to change the diaphragm if the holes are small.  If you want to recoat the diaphragm, clean the diaphragm with alcohol or acetone. Make sure there is no dust on the surface.  You only need to coat the the diaphragm one side.  It's normal to see that the diaphragm is glued to one of the stators.  Actually what you see is the diaphragm glued to a spacer which is glued on a stator.  
   
  Can you take some pictures to show us?  I don't understand what you meant by a large foil ring.
   
  Best regards,

 Wachara C.


----------



## TMoney

I'll respond to your comment then I'll give it a rest as I feel I've said my piece.
   
_*Plus the fact that a audio rig is only as good as its weakest link, that is why I say the combo of the 009/727/Realiser (PRIR's from AIX) in my system is very good.*_
   
  Your system is more than just very good, Sally. Its excellent. In fact, its probably better than 99.9999...% of all rigs out there. You have no reason to feel anything but proud of the rig you've assembled. I've never tried to imply any different.
   
  I've never heard the Realizer, so any guess on my part about the weak point of your rig would be pure speculation. (_see what I did there_).
   
  However, having heard both the 009s (which I own) and the 727 (which I've heard at a meet), and having read your impressions of the Realizer, I'd guess the 727 would be the only thing you may someday look to upgrade in your system.
   
  As your system is clearly already elite, the value of chasing that last bit of performance may or not be worth it to you. As someone who has heard a decent variety of amps out there (including many of the Gilmore creations), I would guess that you would also hear and appreciate the differences a higher powered amp would make in your system. Its more than just a difference of flavor. Again, I'm not implying that there is anything remotely wrong with your rig, far from it. I'm only saying that, based on my experience, you could make it better.
   
*With all do respect to Mr. Gilmore, his design amps are just one more option, one more flavor.*
   
  FWIW, I'd venture that if you go and surveyed most of us who own or have spent time with many of the higher-powered stat amps whether we think the word flavor adequately captures the differences we hear in them, the answer would be no.
   
*My rig is tuned for my ears only, and it has been my experience you have to try other components in your home to hear what suite's you taste best. So just because the component is expensive or in this case a Gilmore design doesn't mean I am going to like it.*
   
  I agree with you 100% here and again applaud you for constructing such an awe inspiring rig. But I'd ask you to also consider that it doesn't necessarily mean you aren't going to like (or love) it either. I think your statement about trying out components in your home is also right on the mark.
   
*Matter of fact the BHSE (yes I saw you cleverly used BH) is not his complete design, so in the case of the Gilmore designed amps they are only as good as the DIY builder.*
   
  This is also true. I haven't actually hear one of the Headamp BHSEs. I've only heard DIY varieties based on the original BH design. For the record, the DIY-BHs I've heard have sounded excellent.
   
  Also, the differences in circuitry and design between the BH and BHSE aren't particularly major, and one would imagine they end up sounding rather similar, assuming both are competently built.
   
*My whole point is for those of us that don't want to take the time to build a Gilmore amp, or any amp for that matter. Now consider the cost, my complete rig cost less than the price of a BHSE/009 that I priced out.*
   
  I don't understand what you are trying to say with either of these statements, so I won't comment here.


----------



## West726

Since I'm the one whose question started this little fuss about amps, I'd like to say that I learned a TON from sillysally and TMoney, especially since they disagree here and there.  I have a 009/600/Realiser (PRIRs from AIX) combo, and it was very helpful to hear the different perspectives.   Thanks to all.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

never mind, it's stupid.


----------



## pachku

Sillisally seems to me to be a classic example of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cognitive_dissonance. Why keeps explaining himself, I don't know, perhaps looking for followers to establish his own "Limited Expense Stax Mafia" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   As others are quite happy to pay more in search of perfection, he's obviously pissing quite a lot of people off, but that's not punishable in a free world, only silly.


----------



## sachu

Yeah?..oh really..perfection..what an abstract term to use in such a subjective hobby. Some folks are so full of it here. Want to have their word taken as gospel or try to sell it as such.


----------



## n3rdling

The point people were trying to make is that sillysally shouldn't comment on amps he hasn't heard before. It has nothing to do with gilmore or other forums or whatever else you conspiracy theorists want to brew up.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Is this still the High-End Audio Forum?


 


  It all depends on whether the vintage receiver in questions is (a) tube and (b) recapped with teflon caps.


----------



## Headdie

Let's continue this one in the Stax repair thread, because it could be long and take some time,
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/newestpost/588716
   
  Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> I wouldn't bother to change the diaphragm if the holes are small.  If you want to recoat the diaphragm, clean the diaphragm with alcohol or acetone. Make sure there is no dust on the surface.  You only need to coat the the diaphragm one side.  It's normal to see that the diaphragm is glued to one of the stators.  Actually what you see is the diaphragm glued to a spacer which is glued on a stator.
> 
> Can you take some pictures to show us?  I don't understand what you meant by a large foil ring.
> 
> ...


----------



## elton7033

Do you guys think is possible to fix a sr001mk2 when the cable have connections problem with the diaphragm?


----------



## Headdie

I don't know for this model, but it looks easy to fix this kind of problem with SR-X/Mk3.


----------



## SmellyGas

Quote: 





pachku said:


> Sillisally seems to me to be a classic example of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cognitive_dissonance. Why keeps explaining himself, I don't know, perhaps looking for followers to establish his own "Limited Expense Stax Mafia"
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Actually, the same can be said of those who believe that amplifiers make large and substantial differences in sound quality. If you spend $5000 on an amplifier upgrade, OF COURSE you're going to believe that the amplifier would made a big improvement in sound over a $500 amplifier. Otherwise, you would be considered a great fool for spending $5000 on an upgrade that made little or no difference. That, my friend, is also a "classic example" of cognitive dissonance.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





smellygas said:


> Actually, the same can be said of those who believe that amplifiers make large and substantial differences in sound quality. If you spend $5000 on an amplifier upgrade, OF COURSE you're going to believe that the amplifier would made a big improvement in sound over a $500 amplifier. Otherwise, you would be considered a great fool for spending $5000 on an upgrade that made little or no difference. That, my friend, is also a "classic example" of cognitive dissonance.


 

 Sound quality may not differ all that much (depending on your opinion), but you cannot deny an under powered speaker or set of headphones remains that, under powered. If an amp doesn't have the balls to drive power hungry speakers/headphones, you get weak bass, hollow midrange and peaky treble.
   
  This is why different speaker companies recommend certain amperage requirements, this is not placebo.
   
  If your prepared to spend the big bucks on an amp then you should well know that deminishing returns come into effect.
   
   
  Now we are in a stax thread and to drive the upper end stax headphones, a $500 amp aint going to cut it, doesn't have the grunt required.
   
  My Audio Technica AD700's, no problem out of an ordinary amp.


----------



## arnaud

^^
have you even just heard the 009 driven from a stax amp. Seems like not...


----------



## milosz

I did a lot of A/B comparison between various amps on dynamic and planar phones, and there are some differences, but they aren't what I'd call MAJOR.
   
  What I found, to generalize:
   

 Class A amps (which almost every headphone amp is)  sounded better than your typical mid-fi class A/B amp for example various integrated amp headphone jacks vs. say, an M3 amp or Beta22
 Some tube amps imparted a slightly different "harmonic flavor" - a slight sweetening of the highs in a certain way, and some tube amps also added a "lush" quality to the midrange.
 On headphones of ordinary efficiency (like HD800's) most solid state headphone amps sounded pretty similar, in some cases identical for all intents and purposes.
 Some amps can drive power hungry designs like the HE-6; some can't and they clip.
 The main difference I head from a really top quality design like the Beta22 was a slightly smoother sounding treble and better bass control. However, these differences were very small- just noticeable.
   
  When it comes to electrostatic 'phones, I can only speak to a number of comparisons I made between the SRM-1 MK II and the SRM-T1.
   
  On all the Stax headphones I tried (various Lambdas and SR-007 mk II's), and Koss ESP-950's, the SRM-1 MK II sounded a little brighter than the SRM-T1-  maybe slightly more 'detailed' as well, emphasis on 'slightly.'  The SRM-T1 sounded a bit more refined, the highs a little 'silkier.'  It also seemed like I could get just a little more volume level out of the SRM-T1 than the SRM-1 MK II before the sound quality degraded.  It seemed to me that these two Stax amps had more pronounced differences than two typical good-quality dynamic headphones amps would tend to exhibit.  The differences between most of the dynamic headphone amps I compared were often very subtle, if there were any differences at all.  The differences I heard between these two Stax amps were more readily noticeable.
   
  I have to say I prefer the SRM-T1 over the SR-1 MK II.  I wouldn't say it's 'better'- it just suits my taste more.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I have to say I prefer the SRM-T1 over the SR-1 MK II.  I wouldn't say it's 'better'- it just suits my taste more.


 

 When it comes to the SR-007, the amp makes all the difference in the world. This isn't about trying to justify a $5,000 purchase. The SRM-1 Mk2 with 370V to play with just is not enough, and beyond that, it's very much a "built to a price" amp. When you remove all of that with the KGSSHV, the 007 really comes in to its own. Even the SRM-717 is a big step up over the SRM-1.


----------



## sachu

Agreed. My current amp completely transformed the sr-007 (and 009) experience. Just totally on another level.


----------



## Tilpo

I just won an eBay auction for an SR-202!

They have new, unused ear pads and no apparent cosmetic flaws. If something does go wrong the seller guarantees a three month warranty. 
I'm so excited. 

I still need to buy an energizer though. I'm hoping to get one for under $150.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


tilpo said:


> I just won an eBay auction for an SR-202!


 

 Congrats!  Hope you enjoy the heck out of 'em.


----------



## loserica

Hi. I listening to music on Stax SR-404LE (Limited Ed.) and eXStatA (by Alex Cavalli), the solid-state version (source, Apple iMac >> AR-T Legato, and MHDT Lab Havana DAC - wich is radically transformed in terms of components changed).
  I have a question: why Stax sound is clearly better after a few hours of listening? I suspect that the membrane becomes more relaxed and the sound is more realistic, more consistent (transparent sound and texture are much improved). Differences are incredible in terms of sound quality. In other words, SR-404LE and eXStatA sounds great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   Thank's!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> When it comes to the SR-007, the amp makes all the difference in the world. This isn't about trying to justify a $5,000 purchase. The SRM-1 Mk2 with 370V to play with just is not enough, and beyond that, it's very much a "built to a price" amp. When you remove all of that with the KGSSHV, the 007 really comes in to its own. Even the SRM-717 is a big step up over the SRM-1.


 


  So I've heard. That's why I am building a DIY T-2.  Have all the parts, now am doing the metalcraft on the case. Takes time, alas.  Started this last September, acquiring parts.  Might be done by Christmas.


----------



## Lil' Knight

milosz said:


> Might be done by Christmas.




Here also hoping so...


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> So I've heard. That's why I am building a DIY T-2.  Have all the parts, now am doing the metalcraft on the case. Takes time, alas.  Started this last September, acquiring parts.  Might be done by Christmas.


 

 Good luck, I think that's pretty much Everest as far as DIY amps are concerned.


----------



## Magick Man

Quick check, SR-007s ~10 years old, clean and in working order, with energizer. Not sure about which one, I didn't think to ask. What's a good price? A guy passed away and his son wants to sell them. I'm not wanting to rip him off but I want to get a decent deal.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Quick check, SR-007s ~10 years old, clean and in working order, with energizer. Not sure about which one, I didn't think to ask. What's a good price? A guy passed away and his son wants to sell them. I'm not wanting to rip him off but I want to get a decent deal.


 

 Current going rate for Mk1s is $1600-1800, on their own.


----------



## Magick Man

davebsc said:


> Current going rate for Mk1s is $1600-1800, on their own.




For real, even at that age? Well, I may be sending him to eBay then.

Thanks


----------



## arnaud

So much? They're like 1200usd used from dealers here in Japan.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> So much? They're like 1200usd used from dealers here in Japan.


 

 Yup. I paid $1400 for mine two years ago, and prices have definitely come up since then. New pairs have also increased to $2650.


----------



## Magick Man

I called the guy back earlier and told him that they're probably worth ~$1500 and I wasn't sure about the energizer. I then said, "I'm not intentionally trying to low-ball, but I only have $1100 (I'm saving for some TH900s). If that's good then we can deal, if not then I can only wish you luck". He said it was the best offer he'd had by a decent amount and asked to meet me tomorrow. He's in a rush to sell, not sure why, I'll just have to see how things shake out when I get there. The energizer is an SRM-717.


----------



## Radio_head

The 717 is not an energizer.


----------



## Magick Man

Then what is it? I know very little about electrostats and the seller knows absolutely nothing. He only told me, "they sound real good" _[sic]_.

Edit: Oh, it's a full amp. Hmm..


----------



## n3rdling

717 is a great pairing with the O2...I'd definitely try to jump on that.


----------



## Tachikoma

No offense, but that combo is worth twice that, at least.


----------



## catscratch

I paid $1450 for the O2 some years ago and $800 (I think?) for a 717. Definitely a good pairing but you need to have a quality source.


----------



## Magick Man

tachikoma said:


> No offense, but that combo is worth twice that, at least.




I'm getting that, but not sure what to do. It's a Craigslist thing and he just wants the cash.


----------



## Magick Man

catscratch said:


> I paid $1450 for the O2 some years ago and $800 (I think?) for a 717. Definitely a good pairing but you need to have a quality source.




My Little Dot DAC I is decent but my Asus Xonar Essence One is better, but I'm pretty sure you mean a source in a completely different league.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> I called the guy back earlier and told him that they're probably worth ~$1500 and I wasn't sure about the energizer. I then said, "I'm not intentionally trying to low-ball, but I only have $1100 (I'm saving for some TH900s). If that's good then we can deal, if not then I can only wish you luck". He said it was the best offer he'd had by a decent amount and asked to meet me tomorrow. He's in a rush to sell, not sure why, I'll just have to see how things shake out when I get there. The energizer is an SRM-717.


 

 Oh wow. By energizer I thought you meant something like an SRD-7 Pro, something worth a couple of hundred bucks. An SRM-717 is worth $1,000 on its own in good condition. They sell FAST too, particularly 117V versions.


----------



## Magick Man

davebsc said:


> Oh wow. By energizer I thought you meant something like an SRD-7 Pro, something worth a couple of hundred bucks. An SRM-717 is worth $1,000 on its own in good condition. They sell FAST too, particularly 117V versions.




But then I'd need to buy a pro energizer and would likely have to deal with a loss of sound quality, right?


----------



## sridhar3

Recently, the going rate for O2mk1 has been somewhere between $1600 and $1800.  I got mine a few months ago for $1650, but the flight case is pretty scratched and gouged up.  My buddy got one in like-new condition (flight case and all) for $1750.


----------



## Magick Man

This seller is freaking me out a little, he's asking me what other pieces of audio gear are worth in rapid fire text messages... @11:37pm. :blink: It seems he's parting out all of his dad's stuff as soon as he possibly can. He has a nice Classé CD transport, but I'm out of cash.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


magick man said:


> This seller is freaking me out a little, he's asking me what other pieces of audio gear are worth in rapid fire text messages... @11:37pm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 His hastiness is your gain.  Any other cool stuff?


----------



## Magick Man

Some things are already gone, but what's left is the Classé CDT-1 I mentioned earlier, a Linn Sondek LP12, Linn Klout stereo amp, Sonus Faber Concertino bookshelves, and a mass of cables and power protection stuff. Also a lot of LPs and CDs.


----------



## raif

I would be a little paranoid that his "dad" rises from the grave to file a police report on the gear.
   
  Maybe ask if you can just pay him directly in meth.


----------



## Magick Man

Oh, I have no doubt the guy is chemically "enhanced" in some way. Probably trying to dig up Roxi money. I'm a little on the frail side due to health issues, but I'm taking my friend Ted. He's 6'4" and 280lbs, former defensive end for the Univ of Georgia. He'll go anywhere with me if I buy him lunch. Which, quite frankly, is more expensive than most could imagine.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Good luck, I think that's pretty much Everest as far as DIY amps are concerned.


 


  Piece of cake, if you're experienced.  The electronic assembly is really quite easy, there's two large PCB's and that's about it.  You have to follow some high-voltage precautions, like using alumina insulators on the MOSFETS instead of mica or silicone, as well as using aerospace high-strength plastic bolts to fasten them down instead of conductive metal ones, but all of that is standard operating procedure with high voltage stuff. The highest voltages are around 900 volts, which is high for solid stage but rather moderate compared to the 750 kilovots of the medical linear accelerators I used to work on.....
   
  Some of the parts are hard to get, and I think that is the most challenging aspect. Some of the older high voltage MOSFETs in the available commercial stock are counterfeit, so you have to test them after you get them.  I got a batch of counterfeits, had to bin them.  If you end up with with a counterfeit MOSFET someplace, it will likely short (or open) when you apply power for the first time, and Gilmore's Corollary of  Murphy's Law states that the counterfeit MOSFET you saved $5 by buying off eBay will take $350 of hard-to-find parts with it. So you really have to check that breakdown voltages for all power devices are as specified by the original manufacturer.
   
  The casework is also a challenge, more so than the electronics.  You can't find an off-the-shelf chassis that will fit the circuit boards, really, and so it has to all be custom made. If you have access to CNC metalworking equipment, it's much easier.  But good work can be done with a metal-cutting blade in a chopsaw, a bending brake and a drill press if you're careful.


----------



## almuzzi

Hey guys, my SRMT1S (very spectacularly) died a few months back I i just got me an SRD-X (non-pro). At first I was a bit worried that they wouldnt work with my Pro headphones but after trying em on,I was surprised! Not sure why, but the headphones, which are the lambda pro signatures, seem a lot less harsh now. Volume and balance both dont have any problems whatsoever. Is this normal or something intentionally designed by the stax engineers (to allow pro headphones to be used on normal sockets)? Either way, its pretty awesome and I guess its an uncommon way of using the stax...
   
  Oh and the setup is portable! Bit heavy though, the amp uses 8 (!) C size batteries


----------



## Magick Man

raif said:


> I would be a little paranoid that his "dad" *rises from the grave* to file a police report on the gear.
> 
> Maybe ask if you can just pay him directly in meth.




Well, it *is* almost Easter, after all.


Okay, that was bad.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> But then I'd need to buy a pro energizer and would likely have to deal with a loss of sound quality, right?


 

 The SRD-7 is a transformer box, it would need to be powered by a speaker amp. With the 007, you'll get much better results from the SRM-717.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Recently, the going rate for O2mk1 has been somewhere between $1600 and $1800.  I got mine a few months ago for $1650, but the flight case is pretty scratched and gouged up.  My buddy got one in like-new condition (flight case and all) for $1750.


 
   
  Hi Sridhar3
  
  Congrats!  I know you are also waiting for your BHSE but have you any opinions to share comparing your O2mk1 and 009 (assume you are using your cavalli)?


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> Hi Sridhar3
> 
> Congrats!  I know you are also waiting for your BHSE but have you any opinions to share comparing your O2mk1 and 009 (assume you are using your cavalli)?


 

 Yeah, still waiting, but Justin said he's getting the boards now, so hopefully we'll see some BHSEs shipping in the next few months.
   
  I don't have the Cavalli Liquid Lightning anymore.  That was a prototype, and was on loan to me for the purposes of bringing it to the NY meet.  It hasn't gone into production yet.  So the O2mk1 and 009 are boxed up right now, as I don't have any amplification.  No big deal though, I can wait.  Just got a new integrated amp for my HE-6, so I'm happy with those at the moment.


----------



## Magick Man

davebsc said:


> The SRD-7 is a transformer box, it would need to be powered by a speaker amp. With the 007, you'll get much better results from the SRM-717.




Was just wondering how they would do if I got a good energizer and powered them off my SLI-80. I thought it might give me a good tube option.

Well, the guy was slime, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if his real name is Vito. We didn't stay long, just long enough to check the HPs/amp and pay for them. The guy's story did seem to be true, we were at his parents' home, we did meet the guy's mother. I just got the feeling he was dumping everything and didn't care, nothing mattered but getting the cash for the stuff. It sort of made me a little sad, these were some of his father's prized possessions and he was treating it all like junk. One fella was there when we arrived and was haggling for everything, he was mad that I was buying the O2s but he didn't try to go over top of me for them. I think he was also pissed that I'd given the guy a rough idea of the gears' value too. Anyway, I'm glad I took Ted, even if he did eat an order of cheese sticks, two racks of ribs, half of a chicken, a plate of fries, and a 22oz hot fudge sundae.  The good news is, they're in great condition with what seems to be fairly new pads. There are minor signs of normal wear, which is to be expected, and the amp almost looks like it just came out of the box (heavy bugger). There's the case and stand, plus Transparent interconnects and power cable that were probably pretty expensive. I've listened to the SR-009s and several Lambdas so I knew what to expect in sound, and these absolutely don't disappoint. So far very, very impressive.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Was just wondering how they would do if I got a good energizer and powered them off my SLI-80. I thought it might give me a good tube option.


 

 The easiest route would be to buy a WEE, the Cary is certainly capable of driving that. Who knows, you may even prefer it to the 717. There was one guy here who preferred his amp and WEE combo to a KGSS.


----------



## akwok

Snag of the year, definitely.  All that for $1k?  Jeez!
  
  Quote: 





magick man said:


> Was just wondering how they would do if I got a good energizer and powered them off my SLI-80. I thought it might give me a good tube option.
> Well, the guy was slime, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if his real name is Vito. We didn't stay long, just long enough to check the HPs/amp and pay for them. The guy's story did seem to be true, we were at his parents' home, we did meet the guy's mother. I just got the feeling he was dumping everything and didn't care, nothing mattered but getting the cash for the stuff. It sort of made me a little sad, these were some of his father's prized possessions and he was treating it all like junk. One fella was there when we arrived and was haggling for everything, he was mad that I was buying the O2s but he didn't try to go over top of me for them. I think he was also pissed that I'd given the guy a rough idea of the gears' value too. Anyway, I'm glad I took Ted, even if he did eat an order of cheese sticks, two racks of ribs, half of a chicken, a plate of fries, and a 22oz hot fudge sundae.
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Magick Man

akwok said:


> Snag of the year, definitely.  All that for $1k?  Jeez!




Yeah, he's probably putting it all in his nose, but that's his problem.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





akwok said:


> Snag of the year, definitely.  All that for $1k?  Jeez!


 

  x2.  Congratulations Magick Man.


----------



## TruBrew

I almost feel robbed, having missed out on such a crazy deal. Congrats; It seems like you now have a fantastic system.


----------



## Magick Man

sphinxvc said:


> x2.  Congratulations Magick Man.



Thanks. I figure at least they went to a good home and to someone who'll appreciate them.


catscratch said:


> I paid $1450 for the O2 some years ago and $800 (I think?) for a 717. Definitely a good pairing but you need to have a quality source.



You're right. I wasn't really liking the LD DAC-I pairing, but the Essence One>717 combo is really shining right now. The Hotel California SACD is freaking me out a little, TBH.


----------



## jaycalgary

I just broke my O2 Mk1's by misfortune. I stepped on the cord while getting up and the right channel went out. I gently opened them up and all solder joints are still intact. I put them back together and gave the wire a slight push into the strain relief and it came on. The wire must be broken in there. I have read on the forum that Stax UK has the better soldering skills and will email them now. Anyone know if they would put a O2 Mk2 cable on for me or if it is possible?


----------



## Tilpo

magick man said:


> Yeah, he's probably putting it all in his nose, but that's his problem.




Who cares? You're putting it in your ears; also has two holes in it. 

I am burning with envy right now. I am hoping I will reach that level too someday in the far, far future.


----------



## catscratch

magick man said:


> You're right. I wasn't really liking the LD DAC-I pairing, but the Essence One>717 combo is really shining right now. The Hotel California SACD is freaking me out a little, TBH.




You know, when I just got the O2/717 I thought "this is it... this is the biggest audio purchase I'm going to make." Boy, was I wrong. Getting into high-end 'stats is a bit like opening Pandora's Box - you never know what's going to come out and what monster rig you're going to end up with. In boating, there's a saying: a yacht is a hole in the ocean into which you pour your money. Well... it's a good thing quality sources are a lot cheaper than yachts.

I'm rather liking the Neko D100 Mk2 with the O2/717. The combo can lean towards the dry side at times and the Neko's lusher sound compensates for that. With the O2/BH it's even better. It's not a particularly fancy or expensive source but it certainly sounds like one.

The fit is paramount, too. You can bend the headband mercilessly to adjust clamping force and overall earcup position. The issue with the pads is not the state of the leather but the state of the inner foam. It will compress and deteriorate over time, and the driver/ear distance will change, with the overall fit getting worse. The good news is that NOS pads are still around, and Mk2 pads will fit just as well, too.

As Jay's unfortunate situation illustrates, avoid straining the cables. The O2 is very durable apart from that one flaw. Avoid moisture and prolonged direct sunlight, too. Generally the dustcovers on these headphones are very good and dust is usually a non-issue, but to be on the safe side I'd avoid overly dusty and smoky environments as well.

Have fun, and as you'll probably discover, once you get used to high-end 'stats there really is no going back.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I just broke my O2 Mk1's by misfortune. I stepped on the cord while getting up and the right channel went out. I gently opened them up and all solder joints are still intact. I put them back together and gave the wire a slight push into the strain relief and it came on. The wire must be broken in there. I have read on the forum that Stax UK has the better soldering skills and will email them now. Anyone know if they would put a O2 Mk2 cable on for me or if it is possible?


 

 That's exactly what happened to me a couple or so years ago. I sent it back to the UK dealer, who sent it somewhere in the UK, who put on a replacement cable.
  In my case, it was brown to match the phones, so I'm guessing it was the Mk1 cable, but who knows if those are still available now.
  BTW, the phones and cable have been faultless ever since.


----------



## jaycalgary

I thought I saw somewhere that Mk1 replacements have run out. I did send the UK dealer an email so all I can do is wait. Do you remember what the cost was? I did get ambitious and in the process of making a new cable and having success so far.


----------



## SGTKORIS

can anyone explain to me how to use these boards to get simple answers to  questions without starting a new thread or making a useless reply just for the sake of entering a post? i don't want to be erased again for multiple posts
  does anyone know how to convert the stax srm1 mk headphone amp from japanese voltage to us voltage or have the original power cord 
  (3 female to 2 prong:transformer).? are you in NYC? spitzer is the king of stax and knows how to do this but has no direct e mail.
   
  paul nyc


----------



## spritzer

Since most of the Japanese SRM-1 Mk2's don't have a plug in the voltage selector then you need to hardwire the transformer.  Here is the correct wiring setup for all Stax amps:
   
  100v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the  ACplug+Brown+Green

 117v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple

 240v:
 Blue+White wire from the AC plug
 Purple+Gray


----------



## Magick Man

catscratch said:


> You know, when I just got the O2/717 I thought "this is it... this is the biggest audio purchase I'm going to make." Boy, was I wrong. Getting into high-end 'stats is a bit like opening Pandora's Box - you never know what's going to come out and what monster rig you're going to end up with. In boating, there's a saying: a yacht is a hole in the ocean into which you pour your money. Well... it's a good thing quality sources are a lot cheaper than yachts.
> I'm rather liking the Neko D100 Mk2 with the O2/717. The combo can lean towards the dry side at times and the Neko's lusher sound compensates for that. With the O2/BH it's even better. It's not a particularly fancy or expensive source but it certainly sounds like one.
> The fit is paramount, too. You can bend the headband mercilessly to adjust clamping force and overall earcup position. The issue with the pads is not the state of the leather but the state of the inner foam. It will compress and deteriorate over time, and the driver/ear distance will change, with the overall fit getting worse. The good news is that NOS pads are still around, and Mk2 pads will fit just as well, too.
> As Jay's unfortunate situation illustrates, avoid straining the cables. The O2 is very durable apart from that one flaw. Avoid moisture and prolonged direct sunlight, too. Generally the dustcovers on these headphones are very good and dust is usually a non-issue, but to be on the safe side I'd avoid overly dusty and smoky environments as well.
> Have fun, and as you'll probably discover, once you get used to high-end 'stats there really is no going back.




Oh, I've spent more than the retail price of a new set of Mk2s, years ago I bought a pair of B&W N802 dealer demos when they were being phased out. Pricey audio gear never bothered me before, but I think because they're small, personal items, headphones in the $2000+ range make me cringe a little. Thankfully, this will be the last such purchase for a while, the O2/HE-6/D7000 selection should suit my headphone needs very well.

The headband is actually just about perfect in terms of clamping force and the pads were most likely replaced recently because they look and feel almost new. Their overall fit is excellent, but they are rather heavy when you add cable weight. I don't think that isn't a major issue, though. Also, I'm using a satin drape to cover them to keep off dust and there's no risk of sunlight in my mancave. 

As for the DAC, my Essence One, it's not in the best situation. One, most hardcore audiophiles will dismiss it because of the manufacturer (ASUS) and because it's comparatively cheap (~$500). Two, although it's cheap by high-end standards, it's still too expensive for the vast majority of PC enthusiasts and mid-fi shoppers. So, it sits in the middle. It's far better than other DACs in its price range, it blows the Bifrost completely out of the water, and performs as well as gear priced 2-3x more. But the people who demand a certain level of quality and flexibility are just writing it off as "some PC USB sound card". Seriously, the thing is built like a tank, has a boatload of great features, and in terms of performance can stand toe-to-toe with the likes of the NuForce DAC-9. If it had a different badge, a brushed aluminium shell, and were priced at $1200, they'd sell twice as many of them.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> As for the DAC, my Essence One, it's not in the best situation. One, most hardcore audiophiles will dismiss it because of the manufacturer (ASUS) and because it's comparatively cheap (~$500). Two, although it's cheap by high-end standards, it's still too expensive for the vast majority of PC enthusiasts and mid-fi shoppers. So, it sits in the middle. It's far better than other DACs in its price range, it blows the Bifrost completely out of the water, and performs as well as gear priced 2-3x more. But the people who demand a certain level of quality and flexibility are just writing it off as "some PC USB sound card". Seriously, the thing is built like a tank, has a boatload of great features, and in terms of performance can stand toe-to-toe with the likes of the NuForce DAC-9. If it had a different badge, a brushed aluminium shell, and were priced at $1200, they'd sell twice as many of them.


 

 If you do feel like taking another step up source wise, the Calyx and the Anedio D2 are probably the prime USB DACs right now under $2K and would be excellent with an O2 and 717.


----------



## jaycalgary

I was watching Ebay and 5 new F81 or F83 panels sold for $360. I am sure someone is happy. I was going to buy them but all I could have done is hoard them for a long time. I know it would have been fun to build the cabinets but would it be really hard and expensive to diy the electronics? Especially considering that a 2nd hand pair of F81 are about $5k. I will stick to ESL57's considering the Stax amp requirement.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

I know the Stax are legendary, but ESL-57s are by consensus about as good as it gets. Be happy. Just my opinion.
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I was watching Ebay and 5 new F81 or F83 panels sold for $360. I am sure someone is happy. I was going to buy them but all I could have done is hoard them for a long time. I know it would have been fun to build the cabinets but would it be really hard and expensive to diy the electronics? Especially considering that a 2nd hand pair of F81 are about $5k. I will stick to ESL57's considering the Stax amp requirement.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Just wanted to drop in and say hi. I am still happy, to put it mlldly, with my SR-507 and SRM-600. That is why I haven't been around--been spending all my time listening to my Stax and my Quads. This is my first-ever Stax rig, and I will always be grateful to Nerdling, Milosz and all the others who advised and encouraged me.


----------



## n3rdling

Hey Jeff, glad you're enjoying your stuff   FYI, there are two upcoming LA area meets, check out the meets subforum.


----------



## milosz

Jeff, please be advised there are some Stax that do not produce very good bass- although their treble has a certain crispness to it....
   

  ...like other Stax, once you try them, it's hard to stop.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I was watching Ebay and 5 new F81 or F83 panels sold for $360. I am sure someone is happy. I was going to buy them but all I could have done is hoard them for a long time. I know it would have been fun to build the cabinets but would it be really hard and expensive to diy the electronics? Especially considering that a 2nd hand pair of F81 are about $5k. I will stick to ESL57's considering the Stax amp requirement.


 


  I don't know where you'd get the exact OEM audio coupling transformers for them, but the high voltage supplies are relatively easy to build.  There are some DIY electrostatic speaker guys out there, an Internet info / sources for stuff like diaphragm film, coating, transformers and so on. So it COULD be done.
   
  I am not sure the effort would be worth it.  ESL57's sound _SO_ good and the potential to get something not outright_ WRONG_, but not-quite-right on a DIY ESL frankenspeaker would mean that the DIY job would stand a fair chance of sounding OK  but not optimum.  You know, a transformer not quite matched would WORK but maybe not with the optimized result you get from the Quad ESL. (I have a pair of ESL57's, LOVE them!  I am actually going to try an experiment and use them as a subwoofer for a pair of single-driver Fostex 3 inch speakers I'm making... use a Behringer DCX 2496 and drive the Quads below 100 Hz or so... it's a wacky idea and that's why I want to try it.  HA HA HA ESL57 as a subwoofer...  actually in my room they are quite solid down to about 40 Hz. It's just something I want to try, I doubt I will end up listening to it for any length of time.)
   
  Apropos of nothing....  SONY 3-way SS-R10 ESL I read about.  Another rare Japanese electrostat 
http://www.thevintageknob.org/sony-SS-R10.html


----------



## jaycalgary

I am more surprised for how little they went for. Must be because of how few of these Stax models are out there. For someone that has a pair of F81 or especially F83 and they had the chance to buy 5 new drivers in cellophane that opportunity is probably not coming around again. Well maybe once. I was guessing most of the good tube transformer builders could make a pair. F81 in 5.1 surround with all the amps needed just kidding. I still have my Esl57 working fixer uppers with plenty extra bass and treble panels. Just not enough room for them or proper amp so far and I want to rebuild them eventually. Your sub sounds like a great experiment.


----------



## J-Pak

There are commercial companies that can rebuild the Stax and Quad ESLs. Poor functioning/non-functioning units usually don't fetch all that much. I paid $220 for a pair of my Quad ESL63 that are in very, very nice cosmetic condition, but needed to be rebuilt. For a little over $2000 all in they are really awesome speakers, handily beating even the Maggie 3.5R and 3.6 IME.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> There are commercial companies that can rebuild the Stax and Quad ESLs. Poor functioning/non-functioning units usually don't fetch all that much. I paid $220 for a pair of my Quad ESL63 that are in very, very nice cosmetic condition, but needed to be rebuilt. For a little over $2000 all in they are really awesome speakers, handily beating even the Maggie 3.5R and 3.6 IME.


 


  Well,
  is there someone reliable around here in Europe to rebuild my stax f-81.Any recommendations. I was a bidder for the panels too, but I selpt in the wron minute(
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## jaycalgary

I blew 2 fuses in my SRM-717 F1 and F2 both are 250V 0.1A and are difficult to find locally. So far the closest I can get now is 0.5A. This is too risky? I can wait till Monday and may be able to get the proper size though.


----------



## mwilson

Does anyone know if there's a place that carries Stax in South Florida? I am really curious to have a listen to see if it's a direction in which I might want to branch out. Specifically I'm looking at SR-009

TIA


----------



## West726

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there is any showroom in the U.S.  Unless you find a meet, your best bet is Tokyo (Maruishi, Audio Union, Yodobashi Akiba . . .).  Normally I wouldn't say such a thing, but if life is short and music is forever as your signature says, maybe you could hop on a plane . . . the ticket is far less expensive than the 009s . . .


----------



## Magick Man

And you get to enjoy Tokyo, which is a really amazing place. It's one of my favorite cities on Earth.


----------



## Tilpo

west726 said:


> Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there is any showroom in the U.S.  Unless you find a meet, your best bet is Tokyo (Maruishi, Audio Union, Yodobashi Akiba . . .).  Normally I wouldn't say such a thing, but if life is short and music is forever as your signature says, maybe you could hop on a plane . . . the ticket is far less expensive than the 009s . . .




And if you're lucky you can avoid customs tax as well.


----------



## graben

We have a lot of Stax dealers here in Osaka as well.


----------



## mwilson

I wish I could go to Tokyo. My wife's been there twice and she absolutely loves the place. Alas, it's not a financial consideration but one of time, or lack thereof to be more precise. Too bad about no US showrooms, or local dealers carrying the brand. Anyone in South Florida or Las Vegas willing to give me a short listen? At one point I even had a SR-009 ordered but canceled it out of being uncomfortable going down a 12k or so path without listening in person beforehand.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> I wish I could go to Tokyo. My wife's been there twice and she absolutely loves the place. Alas, it's not a financial consideration but one of time, or lack thereof to be more precise. Too bad about no US showrooms, or local dealers carrying the brand. Anyone in South Florida or Las Vegas willing to give me a short listen? At one point I even had a SR-009 ordered but canceled it out of being uncomfortable going down a 12k or so path without listening in person beforehand.


 

 I'm in the same boat and decided to take the leap of faith anyway...


----------



## musicman59

I have listen to the SR-009 but I was spoiled becuase I have listen to them with highend amps (RSA 10, WES and BHSE) and love them (specially with the RSA A10 at those prices that th eonly one I would buy) but never listen to them with a Stax amp. Since I could not go all the way with the SR-009 and A10 right now. I took the advice of a fellow member here and order the SR-009 and SRM-727II for now and hopefully upgrade to the A10 down the road.
   
  My set has been on order for 3 weeks already. The distributor has the 727II in stock but the SR-009 were back ordered. Hopefully one more week and they will arrive.


----------



## Grev

mwilson's sig, life is short but music is forever?  I can only read the chinese characters.


----------



## arnaud

One neat way to do this is to combine your trip with one of the large Fujiya Avic headphone festivals as they fall in rather pleasant season, you may get privileged treatment with 1 day excursion to the key audio stores, plus one of us Japan headfiers could possibly help you score a nice gift to bring back home, an sr009 for example .


----------



## mwilson

Yup. That's the idea. I can't read Chinese - there, we're kinda even now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  Quote: 





grev said:


> mwilson's sig, life is short but music is forever?  I can only read the chinese characters.


----------



## mwilson

Haha, that's funny. But gifts can be mailed too, so I'll just PM you my address huh? In all seriousness, I can't find time for travel. I was hardly able to get away for a few days next week on a business trip. Tokyo is high up on the list of places to visit, or rather go back to. Perhaps visit the countryside too, see the cherries bloom. In a couple of years hopefully.
   
  In the meantime though, I think I'll order from pricejapan, unless a better place is recommended. I plan to get a BHSE to power it.
  
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> One neat way to do this is to combine your trip with one of the large Fujiya Avic headphone festivals as they fall in rather pleasant season, you may get privileged treatment with 1 day excursion to the key audio stores, plus one of us Japan headfiers could possibly help you score a nice gift to bring back home, an sr009 for example .


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> In the meantime though, I think I'll order from pricejapan, unless a better place is recommended. I plan to get a BHSE to power it.


 

 Unless you already have another amp or a transformer to power them, if you plan to buy a BHSE there's no rush on the 009. Wait until next year when the BHSE actually arrives


----------



## mwilson

That long, huh? That's OK, I got a good speaker setup for the time being  Yeah, I'll wait on the cans til closer to amp delivery.
  
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Unless you already have another amp or a transformer to power them, if you plan to buy a BHSE there's no rush on the 009. Wait until next year when the BHSE actually arrives


----------



## Anthony1

Anybody know whether there is any shop in Singapore where you can audition the 009's?


----------



## El_Doug

Congrats on the SR-009, you'll love them.  Why would you want to downgrade the amp? 
  
  Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I took the advice of a fellow member here and order the SR-009 and SRM-727II for now and hopefully upgrade to the A10 down the road.


----------



## spekkio

Try Music By Design in Adelphi (2nd floor). They are the official distributor of Stax in Singapore. They also have the O2 Mk 2 and the 507.
  
  Quote: 





anthony1 said:


> Anybody know whether there is any shop in Singapore where you can audition the 009's?


----------



## jaycalgary

Do you think I am okay using 0.125A fuses instead of 0.1A for F1 and F2 in my SRM-717?


----------



## Tilpo

jaycalgary said:


> Do you think I am okay using 0.125A fuses instead of 0.1A for F1 and F2 in my SRM-717?




Most fuses in an amps are slow blow. Meaning that 25% more in rated current shouldn't be a problem at all.


----------



## jaycalgary

Hey thanks they are fast blow fuses though. There are slow blow fuses in a different area.


----------



## Anthony1

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> Try Music By Design in Adelphi (2nd floor). They are the official distributor of Stax in Singapore. They also have the O2 Mk 2 and the 507.


 

 Thanks Spekkio.. so thats my few days in between business.. ION for the LCD3s and Dark Star.. Jaben.. and now  Music By Design for Stax.. any other great sports to check out Headphone gear?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Congrats on the SR-009, you'll love them.  Why would you want to downgrade the amp?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 
  I have not listen to the 727II so I can not comment about the sound difference between the A10 and the 727II BUT i have listen to the A10, WES and BHSE. To my taste and IMO the best of the 3 with the SR-009 is the A10.
  The good thing is that I friend that lives a mile away from me already have the A10 (waiting for the SR-009 too) so we can easily make a comparison as soon as mine arrive. It will be interesting if I can hear $4,300 of differences in the sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Congrats on the SR-009, you'll love them.  Why would you want to downgrade the amp?


 

 imo I don't think its a matter of downgrading the amp, its just that some of us have had many dynamic amps but never [size=x-small]electrostatic amp and high end SR-009 Stax headphones before. So where do you start, with a cost of about $6700[/size] or a cost of well over $10,000, still not knowing if you will really enjoy?
  Yes Its nice to hear the amps and headphones at meets, but still not the same as on your own rig in your home.
  You should understand this, having had a WES and now moving on to a BHSE.


----------



## TruBrew

I think he was making a joke about the A-10 design.


----------



## Jup-Na-Keeeeeel

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> imo I don't think its a matter of downgrading the amp, its just that some of us have had many dynamic amps but never [size=x-small]electrostatic amp and high end SR-009 Stax headphones before. So where do you start, with a cost of about $6700[/size] or a cost of well over $10,000, still not knowing if you will really enjoy?
> Yes Its nice to hear the amps and headphones at meets, but still not the same as on your own rig in your home.
> You should understand this, having had a WES and now moving on to a BHSE.


 
  This is exactly how I decided to approach it. I got my SR-009 last week with an SRM-727. I paid 5700 usd shipped for the both of them, which I believe was a fantastic deal. This is my first taste of electrostatic anything, having upgraded from a WA6/K701 setup.


----------



## Magick Man

I've given it some thought and I'm not going to be investing in a high end amp for my newly acquired O2s. I went ahead and ordered a Woo WEE and I'm going to use my SLI-80 F1. Between it and the SRM-717 I should be in great shape. Getting a whole new amp, when I already love the sound of the Cary, just doesn't make sense.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





jup-na-keeeeeel said:


> This is exactly how I decided to approach it. I got my SR-009 last week with an SRM-727. I paid 5700 usd shipped for the both of them, which I believe was a fantastic deal. This is my first taste of electrostatic anything, having upgraded from a WA6/K701 setup.


 

 Wow that is a great deal.
   
  Lets us know how you like your new Stax rig.


----------



## jaycalgary

Would like to know if I run xlr cables on my Srm-717 and I flip the switch from xlr to rca is it the same as rca's? I find on xlr it is more bright and set as rca more balanced bass and mid but is this okay to be on rca?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> I've given it some thought and I'm not going to be investing in a high end amp for my newly acquired O2s. I went ahead and ordered a Woo WEE and I'm going to use my SLI-80 F1. Between it and the SRM-717 I should be in great shape. Getting a whole new amp, when I already love the sound of the Cary, just doesn't make sense.


 

 Let us know what you think of the 717 vs. the WEE and Cary combo. If you prefer the Cary, you could sell the 717 probably within a day and walk away with basically a free Omega 2.


----------



## spritzer

Since the issue of the WEE was brought up, it has a couple of major design issues which people should be vary of.  First off is the speaker input switch and how it is implemented.  Stax have always used a switch which would switch both the positive and negative inputs independently for both channels but in the WEE the negative's are all connected together and not switched.  Not really a problem in some cases but if you connect a bridged amp to this setup then it will blow up. 
   
  Second issue is with the bias supply.  Looks like they are using an off the shelf solution which is wholly unsuitable for this role, designed for high frequency use in TV's. 
  
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Would like to know if I run xlr cables on my Srm-717 and I flip the switch from xlr to rca is it the same as rca's? I find on xlr it is more bright and set as rca more balanced bass and mid but is this okay to be on rca?


 

 Whether it is ok or not is debatable but it clearly makes no sense to do so.  Why run a balanced signal when you are going to ground half of it?  Many sources generate the XLR outputs by phase splitting a single ended output in crude opamp circuits which makes this all the more pointless.


----------



## Audiogalore

spritzer its seems you always finding some fault with Woo audio products. However regardless of your fact finding mission I have a WEE and it works quite well with the right amp. Magick Man if you like the sound of the Cary I would say it will sound fantastic with the Woo Electrostatic Exciter.
   
  Enjoy music!


----------



## purrin

I dunno, Spritzer may have saved a few of us from blowing up our T-amps, which don't have/like common grounds.


----------



## mwilson

Since it seems that I might have to wait quite a while for a BHSE, I was contemplating getting a SRM 727A along with the SR-009 to get me going for the time being. Is that a decent amp? While I have quite the experience with regular cans and related amps, I'm a total noob when it comes to electrostats.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> Since it seems that I might have to wait quite a while for a BHSE, I was contemplating getting a SRM 727A along with the SR-009 to get me going for the time being. Is that a decent amp? While I have quite the experience with regular cans and related amps, I'm a total noob when it comes to electrostats.


 

 Use the 727 while you build a T2.  Seriously.


----------



## Hennyo

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Use the 727 while you build a T2.  Seriously.


 

 This. ^^


----------



## mwilson

Me and DYI are like water and carbide. Best to stay away


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


mwilson said:


> Me and DYI are like water and carbide.


 

 You release acetylene gas when you try to build things?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





audiogalore said:


> spritzer its seems you always finding some fault with Woo audio products. However regardless of your fact finding mission I have a WEE and it works quite well with the right amp. Magick Man if you like the sound of the Cary I would say it will sound fantastic with the Woo Electrostatic Exciter.
> 
> Enjoy music!


 

 Simple reason for that, they are badly made with circuits not even remotely mature enough for public use.  Some of them are ok, such as the GES but they also had no hand in the design except messing up the power supply a bit.


----------



## Tilpo

sridhar3 said:


> You release acetylene gas when you try to build things?




I think he was more referring to the enthalpy change of the reaction.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> Since it seems that I might have to wait quite a while for a BHSE, I was contemplating getting a SRM 727A along with the SR-009 to get me going for the time being. Is that a decent amp? While I have quite the experience with regular cans and related amps, I'm a total noob when it comes to electrostats.


 


 You might want to wait until Batch 2 gets released - there may be a variety of second hand units hitting the For Sale Forum. If you're planning on ordering the SR-009's from PJ, keep an eye out on the yen. My purchase has gone up about $165 in the last 3 weeks.


----------



## mwilson

yeah, in just the right mixture with oxygen. and it so happens that there's always some sort of open flame nearby when it happens.
   
  Bottom line, I know enough DIY to stay away from it.
  
  Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> You release acetylene gas when you try to build things?


----------



## mwilson

Well the deposit is refundable, so no harm there. I'll go with PJ for SR-009 and SRM 727A in the meantime.
  
  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> You might want to wait until Batch 2 gets released - there may be a variety of second hand units hitting the For Sale Forum. If you're planning on ordering the SR-009's from PJ, keep an eye out on the yen. My purchase has gone up about $165 in the last 3 weeks.


----------



## cacatalysis

After today it must go up more than $200.  Have you got the 009?
  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> You might want to wait until Batch 2 gets released - there may be a variety of second hand units hitting the For Sale Forum. If you're planning on ordering the SR-009's from PJ, keep an eye out on the yen. My purchase has gone up about $165 in the last 3 weeks.


----------



## behwatch

Quote: 





anthony1 said:


> Thanks Spekkio.. so thats my few days in between business.. ION for the LCD3s and Dark Star.. Jaben.. and now  Music By Design for Stax.. any other great sports to check out Headphone gear?


 

  
  You have to book a timing with them on Saturdays. They are usually busy on Mon to Fri as they have to send the goods. They are friendly people and have good service  Have bought a 727II and SR009 there...Waiting for the new stock of 009 to arrive...
  You can try Grado headphones here too...
  I think those are the only 3 places to try headphones.
   
   
  By the way to others: there is a left and right balance volume control on the 727II and also 007tII. Is there any on the BHSE or WSE? Maybe thats why people are complaining about the unbalanced sound.


----------



## lyramax

Quote: 





audiogalore said:


> spritzer its seems you always finding some fault with Woo audio products.
> ...


 

 The kind of faults he found is really worth knowing.


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Since the issue of the WEE was brought up, it has a couple of major design issues which people should be vary of.  First off is the speaker input switch and how it is implemented.  Stax have always used a switch which would switch both the positive and negative inputs independently for both channels but in the WEE the negative's are all connected together and not switched.  Not really a problem in some cases but if you connect a bridged amp to this setup then it will blow up.
> 
> Second issue is with the bias supply.  Looks like they are using an off the shelf solution which is wholly unsuitable for this role, designed for high frequency use in TV's.


 
   
  Is it a CCFL inverter for LCD backlighting? I've wondered about the viability of using them for the output stage of a DIY electrostatic headphone amp. I'm not sure what the typical switching frequency is for those. IIRC, the output waveform is far from resembling a sinewave.

 I use a EMCO high voltage DC-DC converter for the bias supply in a DIY transformer box setup. It works well, although it's more expensive and probably better suited for the task than an inverter. What do the step-up transformers in the WEE look like? Off-the-shelf or custom made?


----------



## Magick Man

If the WEE doesn't work out what are my other options? The SRD-7 Pro or some of the others that are pro bias?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





cacatalysis said:


> After today it must go up more than $200.  Have you got the 009?


 

 Yep.


----------



## ManBeard

Quote: 





magick man said:


> If the WEE doesn't work out what are my other options? The SRD-7 Pro or some of the others that are pro bias?


 


   
  Other options? The 717 listed in your sig.


----------



## Magick Man

manbeard said:


> Other options? The 717 listed in your sig. :tongue_smile:




The 717 is fine, but I want to use my Cary amp with them, since I really like the way it sounds. Ya smarta**.


----------



## n3rdling

The speaker amp has way less of an impact on the sound than the fact the phones are being driven by a transformer.  I have never heard an O2 powered by a transformer sound better than by a proper electrostatic amp, no matter how good the speaker amp used was.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> If the WEE doesn't work out what are my other options? The SRD-7 Pro or some of the others that are pro bias?


 

 The Stax transformers are likely to be too limiting compared to the 717. They were never designed with phones like the O2 in mind. The best transformer would be a DIY design, like Spritzer's Lundahl LL1627 boxes - probably not that hard to make I'm guessing.


----------



## YOONG 2112

There is a big price jump between 507 and 407... is there a big jump in sound difference? Is the 323s better than the old SRM1 mk2 pro amp?Please advise as I am choosing to buy STAX gears and in my town, Perth, we have no way to audition any higher end gears. Thanks


----------



## YOONG 2112

Is the 507 that much better to te 407 since it costs much more? also, is the 323s equal or better than the older SRM1 MK2 pro in terms of sound n built quality? Thanks


----------



## Tilpo

davebsc said:


> The Stax transformers are likely to be too limiting compared to the 717. They were never designed with phones like the O2 in mind. The best transformer would be a DIY design, like Spritzer's Lundahl LL1627 boxes - probably not that hard to make I'm guessing.




Do these DIY designs have bias? I can imagine it's easy just to built a step up transformer, but don't all the Pro-bias headphones also need a very DC bias voltage? 

It does seem like a reasonable plan to me to go DIY. I have already ordered a pair of SR-202's, but I don't know if I'm patient enough to wait until a good deal (<$200) comes around for an energizer/amp with pro-bias.


----------



## catscratch

I like the coloration imparted by certain tube amps and going the transformer box route lets you get that coloration in your system - but when it comes to transparency, no transformer box rig will get even remotely close to the 717, much less something like a Blue Hawaii. A better idea is to get a source that sounds exactly the way you want - and has enough resolution to support the 007/009 - and then get the most transparent amp possible, which would be the BH/BHSE or a T2, or something similar.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tyre said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 It's a voltage tripler for CRT tubes.  Designed to run at 15kHz or so it isn't suitable for this role. 
   
  I've tried the EMCO's and they are great.  Excellent spec and very linear with super low ripple.  Crazy expensive though but I have a pile of them waiting for some amp project. 
   
  Never seen the transformers in the WEE since they are all fitted in aluminum cans inside the main chassis.  These aluminum extrusions are firmly glued shut which is never a good sign though.  They claim these are for shielding but then they would have to be made out of steel... 
  
  Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 All the boxes need some way of generating a bias voltage.  There are a number of ways of doing this including self bias and mains powered bias.  All the boxes I've built feature my own bias supply which is pretty much a modernized version of the Stax SRD-7Mk2 supply.  At it's core is an input voltage limited multiplier which is very high impedance.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> There is a big price jump between 507 and 407... is there a big jump in sound difference? Is the 323s better than the old SRM1 mk2 pro amp?Please advise as I am choosing to buy STAX gears and in my town, Perth, we have no way to audition any higher end gears. Thanks


 

 AFAIK the 407 and 507 share a driver, but feature a different set of pads (which IMO are way superior and can easily be bought separately but aren't cheap), headband assembly and cable. The pads make a big difference to sound, the headband makes none. I don't know what difference cables make with electrostatic headphones, I believe from blind testing they make none with dynamics.


----------



## Magick Man

That's the way I understand it, some people have bought the 407s and grabbed 507 pads off ebay. That's still a very good savings.


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





magick man said:


> That's the way I understand it, some people have bought the 407s and grabbed 507 pads off ebay. That's still a very good savings.


 

 I have 507 pads on my 303s - one of the best money-to-SQ investments I've ever made.


----------



## Headdie

Would these 507 pads fit any Lambda ?


----------



## EddieE

Quote: 





headdie said:


> Would these 507 pads fit any Lambda ?


 

 Yep. Pretty low-tech fitting mechanism - they come with double sided tape cut-outs.
   
  I didn't even need mine as the glue left over from the old pads was strong enough to hold them on.


----------



## ri_toast

Just got a Stax srm-1 mk2; you know, one normal and one pro (its the A model with the larger voltage swing). I don't have any pro bias phones but recall reading some where that electret phones could be used in either socket; I have an SR 80 that I could test the socket with.
  I just can't seem to find that info that I could use the electret type in the pro bias socket. Was I dreaming?
   
  edit: found on the third page of the manual: non biasing (electret) can be used in either socket.


----------



## sridhar3

J-Pak posted up a Spritzer-modded SRD-7 on the FS forums, if anybody's interested in picking one up.  Tilpo?


----------



## di_andrei

I'm in Tokyo for a couple of days this week and would like to pick up a pair of 407's. Can anyone recommend a shop? I am also considering used. I believe Yodobashi has them in stock but they are just about the most expensive option in town - let me know if you know of a better price. Thanks.


----------



## Anthony1

di_andrei said:


> I'm in Tokyo for a couple of days this week and would like to pick up a pair of 407's. Can anyone recommend a shop? I am also considering used. I believe Yodobashi has them in stock but they are just about the most expensive option in town - let me know if you know of a better price. Thanks.




Could you pick me up a pair of 009's to go too please


----------



## Tilpo

sridhar3 said:


> J-Pak posted up a Spritzer-modded SRD-7 on the FS forums, if anybody's interested in picking one up.  Tilpo?




I'm working with another head-fier on getting an SRM-T1 for a reasonable price. Maybe a bit overkill for a pair of 202's, but it does mean that I don't have to upgrade the amp for the coming years. I still have my doubts whether an energizer is sonically on par to a decent amplifier.


----------



## n3rdling

The T1 amps pair great with Lambdas.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> I'm in Tokyo for a couple of days this week and would like to pick up a pair of 407's. Can anyone recommend a shop? I am also considering used. I believe Yodobashi has them in stock but they are just about the most expensive option in town - let me know if you know of a better price. Thanks.


 

 I personally wouldn't buy them from Yodobashi. Go check out a store called Teron 110 (http://www.tereon.co.jp/). Back in Feb, they quoted me Y327,000+ for the SR-009. I almost bit the bullet until I came across a 2nd hand one that looks like new for much cheaper (http://fujiya-avic.co.jp/).
   
  In some of the videos and pix, you may have seen a stack of SR-009s, those are from Dynamic Audio (http://www.dynamicaudio.jp/). But I didn't enquire on their price.
   
  The cheapest retail I've seen was Tereon for new. The only other way I know to get it cheaper would be online stores (and not by much...maybe just $100 saving max).


----------



## lexlex

Has anyone ever received a email reply from STAXUSA.COM?
   
  Why the hell there's a contac form if they don't give it a damn?


----------



## Maxvla

My contact form was never answered.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





lexlex said:


> Has anyone ever received a email reply from STAXUSA.COM?
> 
> Why the hell there's a contac form if they don't give it a damn?


 

 Try again in Chinese.


----------



## Tilpo

My SR-202's just arrived. The cable and earpads are new, and apart from the leather on the headband being a bit worn they are in seemingly mint condition. 

Unfortunately I can't use them yet. I did try to wear them for a moment, and I have to admit that they are incredibly comfortable. A lot more comfortable than they look, at least.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





lexlex said:


> Has anyone ever received a email reply from STAXUSA.COM?
> 
> Why the hell there's a contac form if they don't give it a damn?


 

 Stax USA is Yama's. They aren't big on getting back to anyone.


----------



## lexlex

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Stax USA is Yama's. They aren't big on getting back to anyone.


 


  Good to know, I sure as hell ain't gonna give my hard earned money to this bunch of inconsiderate morons then.


----------



## musicman59

I sent them 2 emails so far asking when the SR-009 will be back in stock since I have been waiting for mine for 4 weeks. No response yet.
  Today I tried to find the eamil address for the company in Japan and cound not find one. Apparently they cancel thier address and ask people to go though their country distributor. That would be find is the distributor has some cusotmer service 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## DeadBeats

Why hasn't stax done anything so far .. Aren't they aware of what's going with yama ?


----------



## EddieE

Company's just been bought out, anyone's guess what's going on behind the scenes...


----------



## Maxvla

People wonder why Stax was doing poorly then you see distributors like Yama's.


----------



## coffeecupman

I had a pair of O2's repaired by Yama this winter. 
   
  They got back to me.  I sent the phones to them and paid them promptly, and left them alone for a month.
   
  They came back.  They are fixed.
   
  No complaints.
   
  ccm


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I sent them 2 emails so far asking when the SR-009 will be back in stock since I have been waiting for mine for 4 weeks. No response yet.
> Today I tried to find the eamil address for the company in Japan and cound not find one. Apparently they cancel thier address and ask people to go though their country distributor. That would be find is the distributor has some cusotmer service
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Maybe this as another option?
  http://www.wooaudio.com/headphones/stax/sr009.html
   
  I've bought several things from Woo Audio (and I know you have too) with great customer support.


----------



## Frank I

Elusie Disc is another option but price japan probably cheaper


----------



## musicman59

Surprisingly Stax-USA responded. He said they will be receiving a few SR-009 next week. Hopefully mine are part of those...


----------



## Headdie

Beside comfort, could you explain the sound improvement from the 507 pads ? How they sound better and why it could be so (shape, dimensions, material, etc...)
   
  Also, I find my original Lambda very hot. I wonder how the pads material could change that... Any experience with that ?
   
  Thanks all,
   
   
  Quote: 





eddiee said:


> AFAIK the 407 and 507 share a driver, but feature a different set of pads (which IMO are way superior and can easily be bought separately but aren't cheap), headband assembly and cable. The pads make a big difference to sound, the headband makes none. I don't know what difference cables make with electrostatic headphones, I believe from blind testing they make none with dynamics.


----------



## Maxvla

musicman59 said:


> Surprisingly Stax-USA responded. He said they will be receiving a few SR-009 next week. Hopefully mine are part of those...




You must be the first person they ever responded to, heh.


----------



## Headdie

So I'm the second, ho


----------



## Il Mostro

Count me as coming in third.  Tats has never given me anything but stellar service.


----------



## TruBrew

They actually answered a phone call for me once.


----------



## EddieE

Different pads on any pair of headphones changes the sound, the acoustic space between the driver and your ear is changed, the vibrations interact differently with different material surfaces and if the material is porous or not (in this case neither is) changes a lot. 
   
  There are actually three types of modern lambda pads: First the old pleather ones with foam screens that sound very nice to my ear, a little veiled, softer, sweeter, very graceful and with the greatest soundstage of them all. I found the foam really uncomfortable as it touched my ear which is why I got the leathers, but sonically I thought they were great.
   
  Then there are the unfortunate modern pleather ones with cloth screens and sticky underpadded pleather which sound, in my opinion, absolutely terrible. The treble is squawky, the sound just a bit smeared all over and they feel horrible on the ears. I doubt I'd have ever liked lambdas if I'd heard them with those pads first. I find it really hard to believe someone at Stax thought that was an improvement on the old style.
   
  For my tastes they sound best with the leathers. They maybe have a tiny amount more bass quantity but obvious greater bass impact, are clearer across the frequency range and an increased vibrancy of the sound. I know "vibrancy" is a bit of a vague term, but you're not going to get how the sound changes without hearing for yourself anyway. 
  
  And yes, they are much less sweaty on the ears. Whether the sound is preferred will no doubt vary person to person but I'd have trouble believing anyone could disagree they are the most cool and comfortable of them all.
   
  Quote: 





headdie said:


> Beside comfort, could you explain the sound improvement from the 507 pads ? How they sound better and why it could be so (shape, dimensions, material, etc...)
> 
> Also, I find my original Lambda very hot. I wonder how the pads material could change that... Any experience with that ?
> 
> Thanks all,


----------



## Tilpo

If anyone has a three (or even two) different earpads for a pair of Lambda's, it would be interesting to get them measured by Tyll to see how big the difference really is in terms of frequency response, and maybe 30Hz square wave response.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I've been waiting a while to find some pads for my NB sr-lambda.  any opinions on which version of the lambda pads sound best.  I dont really care about color.  if the brown leather sound the best, so be it.  I'm also surprised there arent more options for pads.  I've heard  you can get them at kuboten, but my japanese isnt very good. lol.


----------



## EddieE

Quote:


tilpo said:


> If anyone has a three (or even two) different earpads for a pair of Lambda's, it would be interesting to get them measured by Tyll to see how big the difference really is in terms of frequency response, and maybe 30Hz square wave response.


 
   
  I have all three varieties for my SR-303, but I'm not going to send them to America and do without them for headphone science, sorry! Would definitely be interesting to see though...


----------



## milosz

*A / B Comparison   Stax T1  amp   vs  SRD-7pro driven by DIY First Watt F3*  (Nelson Pass power JFET design)
   
  SR-007 mkII  /  Lambda Pro Signature  / Koss ESP-950
   
  First off- a caveat. I don't have any kind of switch for Stax phones where I can switch the phones between 2 different amps in true A / B fashion.  I have to quickly unplug the phones from one socket and plug them into the other.  No as good as a switch, but I've got the action down to about 1~2 seconds.  Also- note-  NOT a blind test.  Didn't go to that level of analysis here.
   
  It's pretty easy to sum this up, as the differences were readily apparent.
   
*SR-007  mk II *
  The *T1* sounded clearer, more refined.  Bass extension good, treble smooth, and attainable volume level was OK.
*SRD-7* had more impact in the bass, and overall good sound, but not as refined or transparent as the T1.
   
*Lambda Pro Signature*
*T1  *Refined, detailed, transparent sound with good bass extension.
*SRD-7 *The difference between SRD-7 and T1 on the Lambda Signatures  was not as audible as on the SR-007's. Lambda Mids might have been a little more 'liquid' from the JFET amp coming through the SRD-7 as compared to the T1.  Pretty close, overall.
   
*KOSS ESP-950 *(with Stax cable)
*T1* Very good sound but runs out of steam, especially in the bass. Plays FAIRLY loud without distortion, but it would not go as loud as I wanted and some bass material sounded distorted at even moderate levels.
*SRD-7* Excellent sound from the ESP-950's.  Effortless ability to drive the headphones loudly at bass frequencies.  Maybe not quite as "refined" sounding as the T1 in the treble.  T1 seemed to offer more detail.
   
  Overall, I'd have to say I prefer the T1 pretty strongly over the SRD-7 on the SR-007's.  More of a toss up on the Lambdas.  With the ESP-950  I prefer the SRD-7.


----------



## ri_toast

nothing but Stax trouble for me; first some loose rca jacks on the srm-1 mk2 now the extension cord.
  I using an SRD-6 with the SR5 and SRD7sb with the nb Lambda. Both headphones "run out of gas" with this cable; six pin Female and five pin male. I'm guessing this cable has a resistor (idk) that drops the voltage down from 580V to 230V so the old Stax sets can be used with Pro bias jacks, someone confirm this? thanks


----------



## spritzer

No resistor.  5 pin male plug allows you to use the same cable for pro and normal bias outputs.  That's the only reason for that setup.


----------



## ri_toast

OK thanks, i guess i have a defective cable? I questioned the original owner, the cable is dark grey, I've never seen one like it. As for the sound its like the power drops and the headphones become a transistor radio with a two inch speaker that's scratchy and tinny. weird huh? They start off fine and then lose it after thirty or so seconds. The Sr5 takes a just that long to run out of steam and the nb Lambda never really energizes correctly. I'm running the srd6 from a great american sound power amp and a tube preamp; plenty of juice! Without the extension cable everything sounds great.
  Spritzer I saw the rebuilds of the Stax12s (bookmarked on another computer, idk) you did on another forum; that was beautiful


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> OK thanks, i guess i have a defective cable? I questioned the original owner, the cable is dark grey, I've never seen one like it. As for the sound its like the power drops and the headphones become a transistor radio with a two inch speaker that's scratchy and tinny. weird huh? They start off fine and then lose it after thirty or so seconds. The Sr5 takes a just that long to run out of steam and the nb Lambda never really energizes correctly. I'm running the srd6 from a great american sound power amp and a tube preamp; plenty of juice! Without the extension cable everything sounds great.
> Spritzer I saw the rebuilds of the Stax12s (bookmarked on another computer, idk) you did on another forum; that was beautiful


 


  Did you plug the phones directly into the energizers? If there is normal sound, the extension cable is your problem. There were 2 extension cables released with 5 pins on one end and a 6 pin socket on the other. The brown one had higher purity copper than the grey one. Take care never to plug the cable into a pro bias output when you are running a normal bias phone - damage may possibly result (yes, I did this myself, fortunately with no audible damage). They changed to a flat cable with pro bias pin configuration (5 pins) probably to avoid just that happening.


----------



## ri_toast

Both my nb phones still work just fine. Even the SR5 blows away every dynamic and ortho phone I have, Not that the others have no merit just not as good. Up to this point I've just plugged into six pin sockets; all normal bias. The only thing left to try is an SRD4 which is a normal bias with five pin socket which matches the five pin of the plug. I'll do it in the AM and post a result. What I should have looked for was a six pin / six socket extension.....well, you can never have too much Stax stuff. In this case having an unused SRD4 might be a good thing. The plug on the SR80 is five pins and works fine in my six socket transformers......
   
  Once I get the SRM-1 MK2 straightened out I'll get some PRO bias headphones.... won't that be fun.
   
  Edit: Further testing
  Ok, next day plugged into an SRD4 (thats a five prong socket) nothing, just as tinny as before. It reminds me of when I'd wired an adapter to run a transformer out of a preamp from the headphone output, worked but sounded distant. oh well.


----------



## rsbrsvp

Looking for some advice from headfi members.
   
  I used to own an ES-1 amp and I had Lambda Signature headphones as one pair of my headphones.   They were the most open and detailed headphones I ever heard- but those upper frequencies caused ear pain.  I had to part with them because of that.
   
  I now have a BHSE and sold my ES-1.   I am thinking of retrying those incredible lambda Signatures.   On the BHSE would the upper frequencies be more tamed, or even brighter than the ES-1?
   
  Also-   how else would the sound signature be effected?
   
  I woud appreciate your advice.
   
  Thanks in advance..


----------



## ri_toast

the SRM-1 MK2 amp is sorted..... that's a proper bit of kit. Oddly the transformer setup is pretty much it's equal but I got it for the Pro socket.


----------



## jaycalgary

Why?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-In-The-Ear-Electrostatic-IEM-Speaker-Headphones-w-SRM-001-Portable-Driver-/110862022522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cfe4377a


----------



## ri_toast

Rare like living mastadons  think stax might make another?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> Both my nb phones still work just fine. Even the SR5 blows away every dynamic and ortho phone I have, Not that the others have no merit just not as good. Up to this point I've just plugged into six pin sockets; all normal bias. The only thing left to try is an SRD4 which is a normal bias with five pin socket which matches the five pin of the plug. I'll do it in the AM and post a result. What I should have looked for was a six pin / six socket extension.....well, you can never have too much Stax stuff. In this case having an unused SRD4 might be a good thing. The plug on the SR80 is five pins and works fine in my six socket transformers......
> 
> Once I get the SRM-1 MK2 straightened out I'll get some PRO bias headphones.... won't that be fun.
> 
> ...


 

 The SRD-4 is a special case; it was bundled only with electrets (which also use 5-pin plugs), so it probably doesn't supply a bias voltage for the diaphragm like all the other SRD-series transformer boxes. I'm surprised that non-electret Stax models even function at all out of them.


----------



## schorsch

Dear Stax lovers,
   
  I want to sell some of my stax equipment via ebay.  Where is the right place to announce that?
   
  (CA-Z, SRM1.Mk2PP)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Tilpo

schorsch said:


> Dear Stax lovers,
> 
> I want to sell some of my stax equipment via ebay.  Where is the right place to announce that?
> 
> ...




I don't see anything wrong with announcing it right here in this thread, in fact I don't see why you need to announce it in the first place. 
Most of the people interested in buying something like that on this forum will probably notice it once you put it on eBay.


----------



## lexlex

I want just say that I finally got an answer from STAXUSA.com, although not from my first try by their contact form at the site. I got a reply from emailing directly at yamas enterprise. It took some days, but ok.
   
  Before that I tried to contact ellusivedisc.com as someone here pointed out, but they can't be bothered to answer me, as it seems. What's the problem with these american stax dealers anyway?


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


lexlex said:


> I want just say that I finally got an answer from STAXUSA.com, although not from my first try by their contact form at the site. I got a reply from emailing directly at yamas enterprise. It took some days, but ok.
> 
> Before that I tried to contact ellusivedisc.com as someone here pointed out, but they can't be bothered to answer me, as it seems. What's the problem with these american stax dealers anyway?


 
   
  Woo is pretty good.  Jack Wu is well-reputed around these forums as an excellent communicator.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> Both my nb phones still work just fine. Even the SR5 blows away every dynamic and ortho phone I have, Not that the others have no merit just not as good. Up to this point I've just plugged into six pin sockets; all normal bias. The only thing left to try is an SRD4 which is a normal bias with five pin socket which matches the five pin of the plug. I'll do it in the AM and post a result. What I should have looked for was a six pin / six socket extension.....well, you can never have too much Stax stuff. In this case having an unused SRD4 might be a good thing. The plug on the SR80 is five pins and works fine in my six socket transformers......
> 
> Once I get the SRM-1 MK2 straightened out I'll get some PRO bias headphones.... won't that be fun.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> The SRD-4 is a special case; it was bundled only with electrets (which also use 5-pin plugs), so it probably doesn't supply a bias voltage for the diaphragm like all the other SRD-series transformer boxes. I'm surprised that non-electret Stax models even function at all out of them.


 

 After charging up the stats on the SRM-1 Mk2 there may be some residual bias left on the phones that would get you some tinny sound with the SRD-4.


----------



## Magick Man

sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> Woo is pretty good.  Jack Wu is well-reputed around these forums as an excellent communicator.




This. If I were getting new STAX the only way I'd do it is through Woo, STAXUSA is worthless.


----------



## ujamerstand

FYI, Woo buys their stuff through Yamas, which runs staxusa.


----------



## Magick Man

ujamerstand said:


> FYI, Woo buys their stuff through Yamas, which runs staxusa.




and STAXUSA has never answered any of my emails and I can't ever reach them on the phone. Maybe they do a better job with their dealers, but their direct customer service and support is a joke.


----------



## lexlex

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> Woo is pretty good.  Jack Wu is well-reputed around these forums as an excellent communicator.


 


  The problem is I wanna buy a stax driver.


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





magick man said:


> and STAXUSA has never answered any of my emails and I can't ever reach them on the phone. Maybe they do a better job with their dealers, but their direct customer service and support is a joke.


 

 I've spoken with two dealers (one ex-dealer), and it's been the same deal with them.


----------



## lexlex

I give up.


----------



## jaycalgary

After all these years I wonder why there has not been more diy with lambda's? I only really seen one other with the idea of adding wood and the result were said to be better than HE90's. With the Grado and Thunderpants craze I wonder why this has not come about with previous generation Lambda's or older. It really would not even be hard. Just a nice block of Oak cut out for the driver and notched out for the cable would easily screw on. I would imagine the deeper the wood the more bass and control like Grados seem to benefit from?


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> After all these years I wonder why there has not been more diy with lambda's? I only really seen one other with the idea of adding wood and the result were said to be better than HE90's. With the Grado and Thunderpants craze I wonder why this has not come about with previous generation Lambda's or older. It really would not even be hard. Just a nice block of Oak cut out for the driver and notched out for the cable would easily screw on. I would imagine the deeper the wood the more bass and control like Grados seem to benefit from?


 

 When my eBay trolling manages to turn up a Lambda for cheap I'm going to turn it into ghetto 4070...


----------



## HDMan

I just bought a pair of SR-007 MK1's, with channel imbalance. Lorr explained that the Realiser will adjust channel imbalance, lets hope it's all good with the KGSSHV.


----------



## musicman59

I just got yesterday my UPS tracking number for my SR-009 & SRM-727II. They should be here Wednesday.


----------



## jaycalgary

Does everyone think the Smyth Realiser is great? Doesn't it just take away how the artist intended making the recording sound? Most of what I listen to the instruments pop out at you here there and can be fun but it doesn't sound like they made it sound like a band in front of you. Others sound like a band in front of you or in the room with them and meets in the middle with a great soundstage. So is it really just for classical?


----------



## n3rdling

It simulates whatever speakers you capture with it.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Does everyone think the Smyth Realiser is great? Doesn't it just take away how the artist intended making the recording sound? Most of what I listen to the instruments pop out at you here there and can be fun but it doesn't sound like they made it sound like a band in front of you. Others sound like a band in front of you or in the room with them and meets in the middle with a great soundstage. So is it really just for classical?


 
   
  There are a lot of recordings that just don't work that well on headphones. A lot of my jazz stuff for example has the sax in left channel only, and without any sort of crossfeed it just doesn't sound natural at all - the artist didn't intend for the album to be listened to on headphones. What I wish they would do with the Realiser is make one for two channel audiophiles. The standard version is really designed to emulate home theater - hence the multi-ch analog in/out. I don't want any of that, nor do I want their DACs and ADCs putting their stamp on the sound. The newer one with HDMI is better, at least it can do straight PCM without any analog conversion, but it's still designed with home theater in mind. The HDMI input is really only good with DVD and Blu-ray players, not audiophile transports. And the optical digital out is the worst possible format they could use in terms of jitter.
   
  What I'd like to see is a version with coax and BNC in/out and that's it. That I'd definitely buy.


----------



## n3rdling

It is not designed for home theater.  It has the flexibility to do multi channel.  There's no reason it can't be used for 2 channel.  The Realiser isn't as straightforward as most stuff around here but so many of you keep twisting the facts on what it is and how it does what it does.


----------



## Anaxilus

Agreed w/ n3rdling.  For clarification though, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it designed to use a DSP and mic to mimic whatever acoustic profile you store regardless of your location?  This sort of thing has been used to fix the issues of automotive acoustics in high-end aftermarket audio for years.  Is there something else to the Realizer that differentiates it?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> It is not designed for home theater.  It has the flexibility to do multi channel.  There's no reason it can't be used for 2 channel.  The Realiser isn't as straightforward as most stuff around here but so many of you keep twisting the facts on what it is and how it does what it does.


 
   
  I know there's no reason it _can't _2 channel, but it just doesn't seem to be aimed at the high-end 2 channel market. What audiophile is going to want to go D-A, A-D, and then D-A before the sound reaches their ears? The HDMI input on the updated version again seems targeted at the home theater market. Name me an audiophile transport that outputs PCM over HDMI.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Agreed w/ n3rdling.  For clarification though, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it designed to use a DSP and mic to mimic whatever acoustic profile you store regardless of your location?  This sort of thing has been used to fix the issues of automotive acoustics in high-end aftermarket audio for years.  Is there something else to the Realizer that differentiates it?


 
   
  I'm not really sure how the auto thing works, but the Realiser takes measurements of two environments: the speakers and the room they're located in, and the headphones.  Both measurements are taken with your personal HRTF and not a standard dummy head.
   
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> I know there's no reason it _can't _2 channel, but it just doesn't seem to be aimed at the high-end 2 channel market. What audiophile is going to want to go D-A, A-D, and then D-A before the sound reaches their ears? The HDMI input on the updated version again seems targeted at the home theater market. Name me an audiophile transport that outputs PCM over HDMI.


 
   
  It's an added benefit.  The fact it can be used to simulate up to 7 channels is a feature well worth advertising, especially since you can use a single speaker to perform the measurements if you were ever so limited.  It could have literally the same circuitry but be limited to 2 channel simulation only and a group of you would take this to mean that it is some audiophile voodoo box aimed at high end 2 channel users.
   
  As for the conversions, I'm sure Smyth took any added colorations these might have brought about and compensated in the end since the whole thing is essentially about compensation.  It wouldn't be difficult for them to do this since it's DSP based.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> It is not designed for home theater.  It has the flexibility to do multi channel.  There's no reason it can't be used for 2 channel.  The Realiser isn't as straightforward as most stuff around here but so many of you keep twisting the facts on what it is and how it does what it does.


 
   
  It is not designed for home theatre?
   
  IT IS DESIGNED FOR HOME THEATRE.
   
  I have calibrated the Realiser with 2 speakers worth more than a house (Acapella Excalibur Spharon), out of those 2 speakers i created 8 speaker surround sound. I also have the Crowson Tactile Transducer for subwoofer response down to 20hz. Let me tell you, it flaws any home theatre I have ever herd.
   
  To get back on track, and this is without even using Stax headphones yet, which the realiser is designed for. I am currently still only using AD700 (heavily modified).
   
  I have to say that 2 channel music just doesn't give you the same out of head experience as Bluray movies, although I don't have expensive SACD players etc.


----------



## blubliss

Quote: 





hdman said:


> I have to say that 2 channel music just doesn't give you the same out of head experience as Bluray movies, although I don't have expensive SACD players etc.


 
   
  Wow, now misinformation from someone who owns one, weird.  I think you chose your words wrong.  Maybe you don't like the 2-channel presentation?
   
  I have a 2-channel room measured and it sounds like that room.  It is most definitely "out of your head".
   
  Pretty sure the thing was designed primarily for recording professionals so they could take their studio anywhere and continue to mix.  Home Theater is another use.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





blubliss said:


> Wow, now misinformation from someone who owns one, weird.  I think you chose your words wrong.  Maybe you don't like the 2-channel presentation?
> 
> I have a 2-channel room measured and it sounds like that room.  It is most definitely "out of your head".
> 
> Pretty sure the thing was designed primarily for recording professionals so they could take their studio anywhere and continue to mix.  Home Theater is another use.


 
   
  Yeah that was a odd one.. Maybe its his headphone limitation ?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> It could have literally the same circuitry but be limited to 2 channel simulation only and a group of you would take this to mean that it is some audiophile voodoo box aimed at high end 2 channel users.
> 
> As for the conversions, I'm sure Smyth took any added colorations these might have brought about and compensated in the end since the whole thing is essentially about compensation.  It wouldn't be difficult for them to do this since it's DSP based.


 
   
  That's literally what I want - the same circuitry but designed for the high-end two channel market. That basically means strip out the unnecessary converters and give me BNC and/or RCA jacks for S/Pdif in/out so that the Realiser can be used with any server or transport and DAC combo on the market. The HDMI version already has the ability to do straight PCM in to out without any analog conversion, it's just the connectors are wrong.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> Yeah that was a odd one.. Maybe its his headphone limitation ?


 
   
  Take it with a grain of salt, this is my own personal findings. I use the Realiser for 100% Bluray movies and music was only for testing and I don't have any high quality music.
   
  Yeh the headphones are definitely not doing it justice.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Take it with a grain of salt, this is my own personal findings. I use the Realiser for 100% Bluray movies and music was only for testing and I don't have any high quality music.
> 
> Yeh the headphones are definitely not doing it justice.


 
  I take it with a truck full of salt, I have tried the thing with stax and it mimics the sound from the speakers in said room almost,if not,  to perfection. No such thing as in your head.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I take it with a truck full of salt, I have tried the thing with stax and it mimics the sound from the speakers in said room almost,if not,  to perfection. No such thing as in your head.


 
   
  The 2 channel representation is there, but not to the same degree as with multi channel. I think this is due to the mastering of music compared with how movies are produced more than anything else. Lorr and his team were involved with DTS for a number of years, this may have something to do with the way it reproduces movies. In my opinion, DTS-MA sounds much better than Dolby TrueHD, for what ever reason.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





hdman said:


> It is not designed for home theatre?
> 
> IT IS DESIGNED FOR HOME THEATRE.
> 
> ...


 
   
  No it's not.  You're wrong.  Like always.
   
  You can use it for home theater, or for high end two channel music playback, or for studio work, or for playing games, or for watching youtube, or for using Skype if you want, but it's important to note that these are all different uses of the system rather than the system designed for a specific use.  Big difference there.


----------



## TruBrew

Lots of crazy talk going around I see. I use the Realiser for both stereo and surround, and it works identically for both. It would be illogical to think it somehow would not. 
   
  Maybe they should add a second digital input to apease those who are under the impression that HDMI is not perfectly capable of transporting stereo PCM.


----------



## blubliss

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I use the Realiser for both stereo and surround, and it works identically for both. It would be illogical to think it somehow would not.


 
   
  ^^This


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Lots of crazy talk going around I see. I use the Realiser for both stereo and surround, and it works identically for both. It would be illogical to think it somehow would not.


 
   
   
  I agree, that when playing the Realiser test tone, the sound is identical. BUT in my experience music, the way it is recorded and the way Bluray is mastered result in differrent effects with the Realiser.


----------



## arnaud

I would also be happy to see something that takes 2 channel audio (including high res), does the HRTF filtering without downsampling to 24/48, and exports to rca spdif. No head tracking, instead putting the money into the quality of the mics used for PRIR. There's no guarantee this will make any difference to the current version as far as 2.0 virtualization, but I could imagine they sell to more headphone users if price can be reduced.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





hdman said:


> The 2 channel representation is there, but not to the same degree as with multi channel. I think this is due to the mastering of music compared with how movies are produced more than anything else. Lorr and his team were involved with DTS for a number of years, this may have something to do with the way it reproduces movies. In my opinion, DTS-MA sounds much better than Dolby TrueHD, for what ever reason.


 
   
  Get some staxs.


----------



## Magick Man

audiogalore said:


> spritzer its seems you always finding some fault with Woo audio products. However regardless of your fact finding mission I have a WEE and it works quite well with the right amp. Magick Man if you like the sound of the Cary I would say it will sound fantastic with the Woo Electrostatic Exciter.
> 
> Enjoy music!




Well, been listening tonight and i have to say I do like it. It sounds like my SLI-80 is driving my 007s directly. Perhaps a very slight loss of detail compared to the SRM-717, but I expected that. It's worth it to get that lush Cary sound. I'll do more listening, but I think it'll be great to have SS and tube options for these amazing cans.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Well, been listening tonight and i have to say I do like it. It sounds like my SLI-80 is driving my 007s directly. Perhaps a very slight loss of detail compared to the SRM-717, but I expected that. It's worth it to get that lush Cary sound. I'll do more listening, but I think it'll be great to have SS and tube options for these amazing cans.


 
   
    Your Cary is a sweet little integrated -- I love me some KT88's.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





hdman said:


> The 2 channel representation is there, but not to the same degree as with multi channel. I think this is due to the mastering of music compared with how movies are produced more than anything else. Lorr and his team were involved with DTS for a number of years, this may have something to do with the way it reproduces movies. In my opinion, DTS-MA sounds much better than Dolby TrueHD, for what ever reason.


 
   
  IIRC the bitrate for DTS-MA is higher than Dolby. It was the same with the original DTS and Dolby Digital, that's why DTS always sounded much better. It's like comparing 128kbps MP3 to 320kbps.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> Maybe they should add a second digital input to apease those who are under the impression that HDMI is not perfectly capable of transporting stereo PCM.


 
   
  It's not that HDMI isn't capable (although HDMI is _not _a low jitter interface when dealing with PCM) it's that it's impractical. On the back of a high-end music server or transport you will find AES/EBU and RCA or BNC jacks for S/Pdif and maybe optical. You won't find any HDMI outputs.


----------



## schorsch

Hello out there)
   
  Some nice pics of a rare stax product:
  Preamp CA-Z
   
  Hope you enjoy)


----------



## RexAeterna

schorsch said:


> Hello out there)
> 
> Some nice pics of a rare stax product:
> Preamp CA-Z
> ...




o...m...g...i think i just came a little....wait a second....ectoplasm everywhere!


----------



## Elysian

My GES isn't powering up anymore, after trying two different power cords and power sockets.
   
  I removed the fuse box from the AC inlet but accidentally broke the fuse while removing it from the plastic clip.
   
  Could anyone please tell me what fuse I should replace it with?  I'm hoping to drop by Radio Shack tomorrow and get this fixed soon.  No idea what could have caused the blown fuse.  My DAC and preamp are on the same transformer, and those two devices powered up fine.
   
  If anyone has any ideas what could be the culprit, I'd be very appreciative to hear any thoughts.
   
  I'm also posting this question to the Woo thread, but figured people in the Stax thread would be more familiar with the GES.


----------



## El_Doug

it would be way easier to shoot an email to Jack


----------



## Elysian

Did so already   He always seems really busy so I was thinking someone would respond quicker here.
   
  Also, if anyone has had similar problems with their GES, would be nice to get some insight.  I ran a bunch of forum searches but came up with nothing


----------



## purrin

Any markings on the fuse? Usually you will see slo-blo / fast-blo designations, amps, and voltage on the metal part. The GES is not going to suck current like some of the beastly stat amps. I take that back since I have no idea on its power supply design... but you can head over to Rat-Shack and try a 1 or 2 amp 125V slo-blo fuse at least temporarily. Start small and work up. I would be worried if it's blowing 2 amp slo-blo fuses.
   
  Would be nice if Woo could at least provide operating wattage in their technical specs.
   
  EDIT: I see 140 watt power transformer quoted in the standard features. I would hope it's over-specced, but try a 1.0A or 1.5A 125V slo-blo fuse for "testing" until Woo gets back to you or until you figure out if there are any markings on the fuse.


----------



## Elysian

Didn't see any markings on the fuse before I fumbled it and it exploded into a hundred beautiful shards between my fingers.
   
  The fuse box clip says 'USE ONLY WITH A 250V FUSE'.  Unfortunately, there isn't a manual for the GES on Woo's website.
   
  I parsed some non-stat Woo fuse amp threads on Head-Fi and it seems people are using 250V 2A and 3A slo-blo fuses on Woo dynamic amps, but didn't know if this would still carry over to the stat variety.  The WES manual doesn't seem to have anything about fuse specs either.
   
  Edit: Thanks for the suggestions!  Very helpful   Would you suggest starting with a 1.5A 125V or 3A 250V slo-blo, based on what's written on the fuse box clip?


----------



## purrin

The fuse box is probably over-specced and designed to take up to 250V. It's going to be the current that blows the fuse if something is shorting. Start at 1.0A 250V to be conservative and work up. If there's a short, it's gonna blow for sure.
   
  Can you salvage the metal portions of the old fuse?
   
  EDIT: http://wooaudio.com/docs/wooaudio_amplifier_comparisons.pdf
  See power consumption of GES: 51 watts.


----------



## Elysian

The metal end says: F3AL250V
   
  I'm assuming that means 3A at 250V?  I'm not sure what the F and L mean.
   
  I hope the amp isn't shorted.  I'm assuming the power tubes (6S4) would be some of the first culprits?  I guess I'll buy a few fuses in case it shorts immediately and then replace all my 6S4s with a set of tested RCA 6S4s I have.
   
  I'll get a 1.5A 250V, a 2A, and a 3A.


----------



## purrin

F = fastblo. T = slowblo. L = glass.
   
  Would be interesting to throw in a wattage meter / logger for GES to determine best fuse for it.
   
  For fun: DIY T2 turn-on current. Do the math to get watts. Muhahahaha!


----------



## Elysian

Awesome, thanks much.  I read up on Gearslutz and it seems like sloblo fuses are preferable for audio equipment, given the power draw as the amp powers up.


----------



## Tilpo

purrin said:


> F = fastblo. T = slowblo. L = glass.
> 
> Would be interesting to throw in a wattage meter / logger for GES to determine best fuse for it.
> 
> For fun: DIY T2 turn-on current. Do the math to get watts. Muhahahaha!




Holy hay, 19 amps? That would blow most fuses for sure.


----------



## Elysian

That seems like a good image for justifying a sloblo fuse 
   
  How are you enjoying the T2?  It's too bad there wasn't one at the Bay Area meet.


----------



## milosz

Hey schorsch  Thanks for posting those pictures of that Stax preamp.  Cool!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





purrin said:


> F = fastblo. T = slowblo. L = glass.
> 
> Would be interesting to throw in a wattage meter / logger for GES to determine best fuse for it.
> 
> For fun: DIY T2 turn-on current. Do the math to get watts. Muhahahaha!


 
   
  What's the time scale there?  How wide is that giant spike?  Just a guess, but maybe a 4 or 5 amp slo-blo might be able to cope with that. A 5 amp slo-blo should be able to handle 30~35 amps for 1 second.


----------



## kevin gilmore

first current spike is the filament turn on.
  second spike is the high voltage turn on, and its really only about .3 seconds


----------



## purrin

I had some issues with Rat Shack 4A sloblos ( I think they were really more medium blow) but no issues with a higher quality one. As KG said, the spike is really not that bad - compared to some household appliances. It is fun though to look at and smile.


----------



## musicman59

I just received my new SR-009 and SRM-727II today. They sound fantastic but I have a question that it might be already addressed here but I am not sure.
  When wearing the SR-009 if I apply a little pressure on the cups or even is I am just wearing them and I open or move my mouth some there is a crackling noise. if I just wear them and listen normally everything is alright.
   
  It seems like if the vacuum pressure created between my head (ears) and the inside of the cups changes is when the crackling appears.
   
  Have other SR-009 owners experience a similar issue? Does anybody knows anything about this?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## AnakChan

Search "Stax Fart" in the forums here - and I'm so not joking here.


----------



## jaycalgary

O2's must still be the best Stax for playing pretty much any genre sound great and never really fatigue? I really don't listen to that much classical but I really like how much space between instruments vocals etc I get with my 02's. In a way a bad recording is still a perfect recording and can make out pretty much everything going on better than any headphone I have heard so far. I sometimes wonder if the treble may be too tamed or the sound stage too narrow but not really because to me Stax really tried to do it all with this headphone and do it excellent with minimal trade offs. So far I haven't ran in to any recordings I feel I can fault them for not having satisfactory treble and I haven't heard anything smoother with the lack of "Sssssss" in the highs. So if it is a trade off my listening experience is much improved as a result. Same kind of feeling I have with the sound stage. What is better having this huge sound stage that is always there on any recording or one that is smaller and with more intimate setting or when you feel your in the recording booth with the artist? Sound stage will definitely open up when its on the recording and grateful that sound is in front and doesn't come from behind the ear. I'm sure the 009's are great in a lot of area's but do you think they are as well rounded with all genres as the 007's particularly do they ever have "Ssssss" in the highs?


----------



## Elysian

Thanks for the advice purrin and everyone else.  I went to Radio Shack and got a bag of 3A 250V sloblo fuses, and my GES is working great again!  I wonder why the fuse went, as all the other audio stuff on the transformer is powering on and working fine.
   
  jaycalgary: I found the 009s fatiguing to listen to over time on my GES, but I'm definitely in the minority.  The detail and speed are exceptional on the 009s, but it doesn't sound as musical as the 007s to me.  I have a hunch that I might be mentally dialed into my 007s, and if I lived with the 009 for a few months it might change?
   
  The 009 is a tough one for me because it excels at all the subjects, but the overall composite isn't a winner for me.  Maybe the BHSE will change things.


----------



## purrin

Voltage sag? Did a dryer or vacuum cleaner go on while you turned your GES on?


----------



## catscratch

The crackle with 'stats is nothing to worry about. It's a normal side-effect of changing earcup pressure and the phones are designed to deal with it.

The 007 is the best all-rounder I've found so far precisely because it's uber detailed but somewhat warm at the same time; it will show you everything that's going on on the recording without making any of it harsh or overbearing. It just excels with everything from classical to metal to electronica to gaming and movies.

The 009 is actually more linear going by the measurements, since the 007 has a treble peak around 10khz though overall the treble is recessed. However the 007 is more linear throughout the mids while the 009 has a bit of upper mid emphasis. Both are still pretty close to neutral at least compared to most headphones.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR009.pdf
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR007.pdf


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





purrin said:


> Voltage sag? Did a dryer or vacuum cleaner go on while you turned your GES on?


 

 No, I always keep my audio equipment off whenever I use a vacuum cleaner or do laundry.  If I use the big vacuum cleaner I actually disconnect the audio gear from the wall, but I'm not always as thorough when I use the hand vacuum.
   
  My audio gear has a big Sola transformer in between it and the wall.  Would the transformer give any protection at all if all the devices (including the transformer) are off?


----------



## Clarkmc2

Is it a CVS or MCR unit? If you have wired your Sola correctly, if it is off it is not connected to the mains at all. A transformer needs AC to pass any current or voltage.
   
  I'll let the experts check in with what happens when a DC current in the windings ceases. Does the collapse induce a voltage in the windings on the other side of the transformer? I don't know. Spark coil, anyone? I think ferroresonant transformers choke off spikes like that anyway.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





purrin said:


> I had some issues with Rat Shack 4A sloblos ( I think they were really more medium blow) but no issues with a higher quality one. As KG said, the spike is really not that bad - compared to some household appliances. It is fun though to look at and smile.


 
   
  All them caps charging up..... high voltage on the secondary = high current on the primary, so, yep, a spike.
   
  But I bet it's not like the light-dimming action I get when my remote-control relay feeds AC power to the 4 stereo amps that drive my 4-way active main speaker setup. CLACK- lights dim.....  some big solid state amps.  Hasn't tripped the breaker yet though.


----------



## Tilpo

milosz said:


> All them caps charging up..... high voltage on the secondary = high current on the primary, so, yep, a spike.
> 
> But I bet it's not like the light-dimming action I get when my remote-control relay feeds AC power to the 4 stereo amps that drive my 4-way active main speaker setup. CLACK- lights dim.....  some big solid state amps.  Hasn't tripped the breaker yet though.




High voltage on the secondary? I thought the voltage of the secondary was in a fixed ratio with that of the primary.


----------



## milosz

Stax  ESTA4u speakers spotted on ebay
   
  These guys are pretty small, almost like the "Desktop Magneplanars"
   
  Self energized, it says.  Like a pair of Koss ESP-6's  I guess.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks for the advice purrin and everyone else.  I went to Radio Shack and got a bag of 3A 250V sloblo fuses, and my GES is working great again!  I wonder why the fuse went, as all the other audio stuff on the transformer is powering on and working fine.
> 
> jaycalgary: I found the 009s fatiguing to listen to over time on my GES, but I'm definitely in the minority.  The detail and speed are exceptional on the 009s, but it doesn't sound as musical as the 007s to me.  I have a hunch that I might be mentally dialed into my 007s, and if I lived with the 009 for a few months it might change?
> 
> The 009 is a tough one for me because it excels at all the subjects, but the overall composite isn't a winner for me.  Maybe the BHSE will change things.


 
   
  I just got the 009 and the 727II yesterday. At first I thought they were missing some of the bass I heard when I audiotioned them with a RSA A-10 but after couple of hours they settledown and the bass response increased. Last night I listen to them for about 3 hours with no fatiguing at all.
   
  I love the detail and soundstage presentation. The music comes from a very dark background like form nowhere and has a lot of air and separation beween instruments and voices.
   
  What power cord and interconnects are you using? What is your source?
   
  I listened to the 009/BHSE combo together with a very knwledgable fellow Headfier and both agree that the 009 sounded very detailed but on the lean side. IMO the BHSE is a better match with the 007 and the WES or A10 with the 009.


----------



## kevin gilmore

New headphones, or ones that have been sitting a month need
  a day or two to charge. Fact of life.


----------



## musicman59

Thanks Kevin. I am new with electrostatic headphones so it is good to know.


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I listened to the 009/BHSE combo together with a very knwledgable fellow Headfier and both agree that the 009 sounded very detailed but on the lean side. IMO the BHSE is a better match with the 007 and the WES or A10 with the 009.


 
   
  A better approach is maybe a warmer source and keep the BHSE in the chain. The BHSE is not necessarily a bright amp.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





purrin said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Might be but then I guess Justin selected the wrong source or cables in his setup at RMAF becuase that's where I listened to that combination. The only thing I am saying is that IMO and to my taste it did not sounded as full and rounded as the other two. Granted the source of the A-10 was a Boulder CD player and I don't remember the source of the WES but it was not as High-End as the Boulder.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> New headphones, or ones that have been sitting a month need
> a day or two to charge. Fact of life.


 
   
  I've been discharging my headphones after I finish listening, should I not be doing this? (I use them every day or close to)
   
  I always assumed dust is more attracted to a charged membrane.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I listened to the 009/BHSE combo together with a very knwledgable fellow Headfier and both agree that the 009 sounded very detailed but on the lean side. IMO the BHSE is a better match with the 007.


 
   
  Bingo.  x3


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





purrin said:


> The BHSE is not necessarily a bright amp.


 
   
  He didn't say that I don't think, he said lean.  The Accuphase certainly isn't bright or lean.


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> New headphones, or ones that have been sitting a month need
> a day or two to charge. Fact of life.


 
   
  Could you please provide technical explanation why? I read not long time ago that ones you plug headphones the stators  become charged instantly. thanks


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





vvs_75 said:


> Could you please provide technical explonation why? I read not long time ago that ones you plug headphones the stators  become charged instantly. thanks


 
   
  Kevin or someone else can do the technical reply but I can say that is NOT true for the ESP950.  We plugged them in to the T2 the other day and they sounded completely incoherent  from power on.  After about 15-20 minutes, all was fine.  We actually thought something was wrong.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Kevin or someone else can do the technical reply but I can say that is NOT true for the ESP950.  We plugged them in to the T2 the other day and they sounded completely incoherent  from power on.  After about 15-20 minutes, all was fine.  We actually thought something was wrong.


 
   
  Was the amp just turned on? Class A monsters do sound better after some warm up. I experienced it with my Blue Hawaii, KGSS and other class A speaker amps.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Was the amp just turned on? Class A monsters do sound better after some warm up. I experienced it with my Blue Hawaii, KGSS and other class A speaker amps.


 
   
  Good question, I don't recall.  I'll have to recheck.  T2 does have a few bits in the signal path.  Thought I did notice a smaller effect w/ the E9 but it could just be the amp which makes sense.


----------



## jaycalgary

"Stax ESTA4u speakers spotted on ebay"
I asked about these speakers before and seems either nobody really knows about them or really could care less about them. Maybe they are just to small. Last pair on ebay sold for less then what these ones are at now.


----------



## kevin gilmore

It is a 5 meg charging resistor on the stax headphones. 10M on the he90's.
  The space charge takes a long time to distribute over the entire diaphram.
  On new headphones it really can take a few days. On very old phones
  it can take longer than a few days. The resistivity of the diaphram is
  on the order of 100's of megohms per square.
   
  If you charge them up, and then unplug the headphones from the
  amp and don't touch the pins, they will stay charged for quite some time.
   
  esl63's take a week to charge, as evidenced by the speed at which
  the neon lightbulb blinks.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Kevin, So is it OK to leave stax headphone constantly charged since I never turn off the stax 323s amp as it is a S state amp, unlike valves.. That way the 507 will sound its best at all times. However as  J Pak questioned... what about dust attraction? Any good advice? thanks. BTW.. The 323s and 507 is great. The 323s sounded even cleaner with greater dynamics than the srm1 mk2 pro. Also, the improvement from stax lambda pro to 507 is very audible., more bdy ,bass n transients dynamics all round.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I leave mine plugged in all the time to a seperate little box with the always on bias board.
  Then i unplug and plug into the amplifier for listening.  I've done it this way for years.
   
  I do have a whole house electrostatic air cleaner, and its a no smoking house.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Thanks Kev.. But what is this bias box? I am not aware of such a gadget in the market>>!!? Is it expensive to buy? As it is I have left my 507 connected to the 323s all te time.. n the 323s is on all the time. both are fairly new... 5 months old . thanks.


----------



## kevin gilmore

spritzer did a board run, a while back, justin also did a board run a while ago.
  You can make one yourself fairly easily, there is nothing commercial unless
  you want to use a srd5 or srd7 which work just fine for this.


----------



## Audiogalore

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Well, been listening tonight and i have to say I do like it. It sounds like my SLI-80 is driving my 007s directly. Perhaps a very slight loss of detail compared to the SRM-717, but I expected that. It's worth it to get that lush Cary sound. I'll do more listening, but I think it'll be great to have SS and tube options for these amazing cans.


 
   

 Congratulation on your WEE purchase. The WEE is just the exciter that provides the bias 580v. charge to the 007and if coupled to the right amp will out perform most individual electrostatic amps . As I have mentioned before if you like the sound of the Cary SLI-80, than you will enjoy the performance. I had a Cary 300SE prior to my Woo WA-5 and enjoyed it every much.
   
  Enjoy music!


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Bingo.  x3


 
   
   
  Umm, you strategically cut out the "and the WES or A10 with the 009." from my quote. This changes the meaning and context of what I was ultimately trying to hint at (see below), but didn't want to say directly. Nice try, but you can't pull that kind of crap off with me so easily. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Then again, you are probably try to squeeze certain things out of me that may piss off other people.
   
  In contrast to the "007+BHSE" and "009+WES/A10" which been so often quoted that it's starting to be ingrained as "the way to go" into everyone's head, I wanted to throw in a different approach: a DAC change instead of an amp change. I am not yet totally convinced that the BHSE + 009 always equates with a lean or bass-lite sound simply because I do not have enough experience. Yes, we've heard n3rdling's setup a few times, and his DAC is on the warm side of things, but we haven't lived with it, nor have we tried other DACs with his BH. As you know, even the ultimate STAX amp sounded lean with the SR009 until we found a certain data transport/DAC combination.
   
  I'm not necessarily a huge advocate of the BHSE from an absolute point of view, but it does a more than a few things very well. It sounds clear, it's transparent, and it has a very good control over the driver. No boomy bass, no out of control midrange. And the BHSE does these do things much better than most other 'stat amps. And you know from our tinkering around, experiments, and exposure to various types of amps what lots of capacitors or other reactive components in the signal path will do to the sound. It kills transparency and makes things veiled if not all fuzzy.
   
  What I am getting at it is that it would be shame to restrict what the 009 can do by going with a less transparent amp for the sake of better tonal balance. So perhaps we should consider "the change the source approach" instead of the "change the amp approach" - at least try this approach a little bit more before we finally give up and make the "009+BHSE = lean" assumption. The 009 is all about hyper-transparency, clarity, articulation. Perhaps not the a perfect analogy, but I feel that matching the 009 with the WES or A10 is the 'stat equivalent of matching the HD800 with the Leben to cure the HD800's ills. And I know exactly how you feel about that combo (that the cure also kills what the HD800 does best.)
   
  Finally in closing, perhaps those who do not agree with the 009's tonality should simply stick with the 007. Unless it's a matter of prestige or "whatever costs the most" must be the best. Heck, I'm still on the fence about the 009s.
   
  P.S. We'll get the chance to mix and match my stuff with n3rdling's stuff and figure it out in a few weeks.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Thanks.. Wonder when Another run will be made.... I will want to get a unit from them..!!! Thanks for info... great help.! Hope Spritzer or Justin can inform me when they next have some units available..!! Cheers. to all Staxians on this blog...


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Thanks.. Wonder when Another run will be made.... I will want to get a unit from them..!!! Thanks for info... great help.! Hope Spritzer or Justin can inform me when they next have some units available..!! Cheers. to all Staxians on this blog...


 
   
   
  I'll go in with one too for a group buy!


----------



## arnaud

purrin said:


> P.S. We'll get the chance to mix and match my stuff with n3rdling's stuff and figure it out in a few weeks




Looking forward to this! My complain with impressions so far is they come from meet environment where it's simply not possible to go beyond rough cut impressions. The source itself being different in most cases is a major influence imho because while I experienced magical moment at meets with some rigs, it has pretty much systematically been when the amp and headphones were fed by a quality source. Conversely, I often have been diseappointed by some headphones or amps while the source was so so. Most impressions I read about the 009/you_name_it_amp don't mention the source and even less the source material, which is a problem.

Anyhow, I am thus looking forward to some more rigorous investigation in a controlled environment. Having said that, regardless of my DAC beeing notoriously smooth, and the 727 amp supposed to be warmer than other amps, my 009 still sounds edgy / agressive when fed with less than stellar recordings or listened to louder volume than usual (I don't listen loud typically). In that sense, if the BHSE and other KGSSHV do tighten up the loose ends on the omega 2, I certainly can imagine one would spend as much time if not more time with the O2 rig (and use the 009 only for those recordings that deserve it...)


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote:  
   
  My reply was specific to gear I framed in my post and to the poster I quoted.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
   
  I'll reserve some of my minor divergent opinions till further testing can be conducted.  Leanness was _one _issue that could be attributed to a source, assuming the source was in fact lean.  In the case he refers to I didn't see brightness being what he was getting at but I'll let him speak to that.  I don't think brightness and leanness always go hand in hand.  It is a detailed and transparent amp so never had a problem w/ that.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> New headphones, or ones that have been sitting a month need
> a day or two to charge. Fact of life.


 
   
  I did find (and noted on the thread about amps for the 009) that after letting them run for a day or so, the 009s (with my 007t/ii amp) transformed basically, with the highs becoming more natural and gorgeous and sweet, and the bass really falling into place 
  (now deep, transparent, detailed, and very satisfying). I now think the sound of the 009s with my Stax amp is just off the charts, with no upgrade needed for fear something in the superb sound I hear might be disturbed.
   
  But yep, the break-in worked wonders.


----------



## purrin

Interesting observation. The 009s did sound more and more warm and lush toward the end of the day at a meet that a few of us were at. Perhaps it was this in combination with switching equipment around to find the right synergies.


----------



## sillysally

imo when you come from a dynamic headphone like the LCD's or HE's to the 009's, it takes about a week for your brain to become sensitive to all the detail and dynamic swings of a combo like the 727/009.
   
  As far as DAC's and source players go, I like the ES9018 Dac chip if properly implemented in the DAC, very crisp and fast. Using a Supernova 6 optical (1/2M) and a pair of  Eclipse 6 XLR interconnects (1M) I don't think hurts, but I would think you can find something as good for a lot less.
   
  As far as electrostatic build-up goes I use my P5 and its clean feature to take care of that. However I don't worry much about any electrostatic build-up because it can happen fairly fast, so I just go with the flow (so to speak).


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I did find (and noted on the thread about amps for the 009) that after letting them run for a day or so, the 009s (with my 007t/ii amp) transformed basically, with the highs becoming more natural and gorgeous and sweet, and the bass really falling into place
> (now deep, transparent, detailed, and very satisfying). I now think the sound of the 009s with my Stax amp is just off the charts, with no upgrade needed for fear something in the superb sound I hear might be disturbed.
> 
> But yep, the break-in worked wonders.


 
  My 007t/i and O2 mk1 sound better to me after being left on 24 hours than they do after even a whole evening's worth of warm up. With a subtly smoother and more natural sound - even though that combination already sounds pretty smooth to start with.
   
  I came across this by accident when I simply forgot to switch the amp off one evening. When I started listening the following evening, I went "wow", as I wasn't expecting any difference.
   
  I think it is the amp, not the phones, that benefited from that extended warm up period - because I repeated this, but this time left the phones disconnected overnight.
   
  Many people claim that amps benefit from extended warm up periods, but it's not something I intend to test with my upcoming BHSE!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> New headphones, or ones that have been sitting a month need
> a day or two to charge. Fact of life.


 
   
  I know my Quad ESL-57's take a long time to charge up.
   
  The diaphragms are coated with a material that, while conductive, has quite a high resistance.  (Meg-ohms per inch if I recall...)  You figure your RC time constant to reach full charge- yeah it's gonna take a while.  
   
  The idea is you don't want the charge to easily move around on the diaphragm. I think if the charge were free to move quickly around,  when the diaphragm is pulled towards one stator or the other, all the charge would migrate to the center of the diaphragm 'cause it's marginally closer to the stator. The diaphragm stretches into a somewhat curved or domed shape at full excursion, with the center of the diaphragm slightly closer to the stator than the outer edge.  You'd get a weird nonlinear response if you had the charge moving around freely on the diaphragm, and arcing might happen a bit more readily too.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Here you go:


 
   
  Any tips on step number 5? Seems awfully hard to get the edge of the earpad back into the gap, surely I'm doing something wrong


----------



## spekkio

Start by putting one part of the fold into the gap, and then use a thin ruler / hard card thing to push the rest of the material inside, while making sure the fold you originally put in stays in place (try using tape to hold it down).


----------



## deadlylover

I like to stretch the material past the gap and let the tension 'pull' it back into the gap, working your way around.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I know my Quad ESL-57's take a long time to charge up.
> 
> The diaphragms are coated with a material that, while conductive, has quite a high resistance.  (Meg-ohms per inch if I recall...)  You figure your RC time constant to reach full charge- yeah it's gonna take a while.
> 
> The idea is you don't want the charge to easily move around on the diaphragm. I think if the charge were free to move quickly around,  when the diaphragm is pulled towards one stator or the other, all the charge would migrate to the center of the diaphragm 'cause it's marginally closer to the stator. The diaphragm stretches into a somewhat curved or domed shape at full excursion, with the center of the diaphragm slightly closer to the stator than the outer edge.  You'd get a weird nonlinear response if you had the charge moving around freely on the diaphragm, and arcing might happen a bit more readily too.


 
   
  Hey, nice speakers, I heard the ESL-57s at the NY audio show 2 weeks ago and I posted here and other places that these mid-century speakers were best of show.


----------



## rgs9200m

And, yep, the 009s really shine with the EMM XDS1 cdp, so, sure, the source is all-important.
  The chain of Shunyata Triton --> EMM XDS1 cdp --> 007t/ii amp --> 009s just does it all for me.
  I don't even think much about listening to speakers, it's so addictive.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Hey, nice speakers, I heard the ESL-57s at the NY audio show 2 weeks ago and I posted here and other places that these mid-century speakers were best of show.


 
   
  I have always thought that the 57's delivered mids better than any speaker I have ever heard -- a properly re-built pair of these are the perfect focal point of a smaller, limited LF system.  I have always wondered how they would scale up if stacked, as is fairly common with the 63's.


----------



## akwok

Got the SR-009 today.  After a preliminary listening session, I'm pretty sure it's the best headphone I've ever owned -- it reminds me a LOT of the original SR-Omega, which was my previous benchmark.
   
  I guess it's time to sell off the HD800 and the SR-007 since the SR-009 has single-handedly made both of them redundant!


----------



## spritzer

I find the "this amp works best for that" quite funny since it's all based on what, meet impressions?  For most of us these are just a novelty and utterly useless for any real comparison.  You have to live with any piece of gear for an extended period of time before you can fully grasp its character.  Hence claims of magical "burn in" and other such nonsense. 
   
  Now my views on the A-10 and WES should be clear to most but as a counter point I'm also not happy with the 009 in some ways.  Still I'd never pay 5k$ for a set of headphones and try to kill the resolution they offer in that way.  Makes so sense and you'd be better off with a Lambda if that's the aim.  To the same extent I don't get the argument that the 007 should not be used with anything short of the KGSS.  Sure, they just flat out suck on some sorry examples of the breed but some "lesser amps" might surprise you.  Right now I'm listening to a new amp I designed with Kevin (codename Baldur, a spin off of the GES/Aristaeus basic design but with super cheap tubes) and I have zero urge to turn on the fully loaded KGSSHV sitting underneath it.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Thanks.. Wonder when Another run will be made.... I will want to get a unit from them..!!! Thanks for info... great help.! Hope Spritzer or Justin can inform me when they next have some units available..!! Cheers. to all Staxians on this blog...


 
   
  I'm sure Justin will never make these boards again since the KGSS has been discontinued.  He offered them as upgrades for people who believed that the headphones were warming up with use when it's naturally the amplifier which is heating up and thus running on correct spec.  The charge effect is very real but isn't a problem with normal usage and it's fine to discharge the phones when you unplug them. 
   
  As for my boards, they were intended for use in the SRD-7 boxes to upgrade the normal bias only units to probias.  They will work in stand alone boxes like that too when fed from a transformer (for the virtual ground).  I always try to have some of these around so people can contact me if they need them. 
   
  Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I like to stretch the material past the gap and let the tension 'pull' it back into the gap, working your way around.


 
   
  That's how I do it.


----------



## schorsch

Well the esta are not as popular as the f-81 for example and they were not that expensive when they out freshly. They really need a subwoofer!
   
  REgards Georg


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> To the same extent I don't get the argument that the 007 should not be used with anything short of the KGSS.  Sure, they just flat out suck on some sorry examples of the breed but some "lesser amps" might surprise you.  Right now I'm listening to a new amp I designed with Kevin (codename Baldur, a spin off of the GES/Aristaeus basic design but with super cheap tubes) and I have zero urge to turn on the fully loaded KGSSHV sitting underneath it.


 
   
  So why are the Baldur and Aristaeus (had the opportunity to hear one a few weeks ago) quite good, the SRM323 mediocre, and the Woo GES quite sucky in regards to the pairing with 007? A serious question here - not trying to be a smart-ass.


----------



## Maxvla

sridhar3 said:


> Quote:
> 
> Woo is pretty good.  Jack Wu is well-reputed around these forums as an excellent communicator.




Except when he ignores direct questions. Twice.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





il mostro said:


> I have always thought that the 57's delivered mids better than any speaker I have ever heard -- a properly re-built pair of these are the perfect focal point of a smaller, limited LF system.  I have always wondered how they would scale up if stacked, as is fairly common with the 63's.


 
   
  Wayne Piquet, of Quads Unlimited  rebuilds Quads, gives advice on Quads, rebuilds panels, makes replacement multiplier diode ladder boards for the high voltage supply, and makes a very good zener clamp board which can protect your Quads from too much power.  He has done a LOT of stacked Quads, see his photos http://quadsunlimited.us/#/photo-gallery/4534267353  - he's a great guy, provides great service and tips.  I had my treble panels rebuilt by him.
   
  A stacked Quad will play louder and go deeper, but becomes even more directional in the highs.
   
  In my pretty small room, with the Quads well out from the back wall, they produce great bass really, except nothing below 40~45 Hz and no real "wallops" of bass dynamics.  Still, the bass is SO TAUT and CONTROLLED- you just end up wanting every speaker to have that KIND of bass, but MORE of it!  The treble is not quite state of the art- there's something not quite "open" about it, and I prefer the treble from my Magneplanar MG 3.6's  ribbon tweeters.  The upper bass / lower mids have such great detail and body, and a kind of perfection in that register- there's no other speaker I've ever heard that bests them in this region. The other parts of the audio spectrum are very good too, so really this is just a speaker that is really special - _within it's limits._ It's just that after listening to Quad ESL-57's you want MORE of their sound but they really can only produce just so much and no more.
   
  I've never heard stacked Quads.  Here's what some look like, a very pretty triple-stack from Quads Unlimited:
   

   
  Here's my "small room" setup. This was shot through the door into the room. The listening position is to the right, the small sofa, hidden from view,  is placed where the small rug ends along the right.
   I usually use a Forte 4A amp, or a Harmon Kardon Citation 2 driven directly off an Audio-Gd NFB-2 DAC.
  The small TV is used so I can read on-screen menus from a Sony DVD / SACD player.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> Start by putting one part of the fold into the gap, and then use a thin ruler / hard card thing to push the rest of the material inside, while making sure the fold you originally put in stays in place (try using tape to hold it down).


 
   

 Thanks, ended up using a business card, worked reasonably well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





purrin said:


> So why are the Baldur and Aristaeus (had the opportunity to hear one a few weeks ago) quite good, the SRM323 mediocre, and the Woo GES quite sucky in regards to the pairing with 007? A serious question here - not trying to be a smart-ass.


 
   
  The SRM-323 is hamstrung by how much it costs to make and it's price bracket so only small heatsinks for the output devices and thus limited current.  It is a remarkable amp for the low price of 800$ and I can't think of any fully balanced amps for dynamics which come close to it in quality.  It's not perfect but still the best Stax amp one can buy for anywhere close to 1k$ new. 
   
  The Baldur, Aristaeus, HEV90 and GES all share a very similar circuit layout.  They are different but in broad strokes they are all very similar.  Any reason a GES would sound drastically different from an Aristaeus is that something was wrong with the GES.  It's also not the best idea in the world to use 12BZ7's in this circuit as they are similar but not the same.  I liked both of the GES amps I've heard but Woo have a tendency to mess up any circuit they touch with "improvements".  The 6S4A used in the GES is certainly the best output tube of the lot so the amp should be very good.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I find the "this amp works best for that" quite funny since it's all based on what, meet impressions?  For most of us these are just a novelty and utterly useless for any real comparison.  You have to live with any piece of gear for an extended period of time before you can fully grasp its character.  Hence claims of magical "burn in" and other such nonsense.


 
  I've lived with the 009/007t-II  for about 3 weeks now and listened almost every day and all of my huge enthusiasm for this combo comes from that.
  Though you are absolutely correct that any comparison to other stat amps was at a show with a completely different system, so any impressions should be taken with a grain of salt and are not reliable.
  But all I know is that the 007t-II/009 is something I could live with permanently, extremely natural, with great bass, mids, highs, vocals, pacing and lack of fatigue and hard to put down.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Wayne Piquet, of Quads Unlimited  rebuilds Quads, gives advice on Quads, rebuilds panels, makes replacement multiplier diode ladder boards for the high voltage supply, and makes a very good zener clamp board which can protect your Quads from too much power.  He has done a LOT of stacked Quads, see his photos http://quadsunlimited.us/#/photo-gallery/4534267353  - he's a great guy, provides great service and tips.  I had my treble panels rebuilt by him.
> 
> A stacked Quad will play louder and go deeper, but becomes even more directional in the highs.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Nice set up. You really hit the nail on the head with the bolded portion of the quote.  Clever use of the TV, too.


----------



## Magick Man

maxvla said:


> Except when he ignores direct questions. Twice.




At least they'll actually talk with me, unlike, say, Stax.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Except when he ignores direct questions. Twice.


 
   
  That's odd.  I've never had problems with communication with Jack.


----------



## Anthony1

Ive managed to get a pair of 009's for just under $4,000AU (havent bought them yet but haggled that price)... Does anybody know whether that is comparable to what you would pay in Japan direct?


----------



## AnakChan

Is that new? Sounds reasonable. Tereon110 in Akihabara sells the approx Y327,000+ (*approx AUD$3925) with JP sales tax incl.
   
  2nd hand 009's have been sold for approx Y289,000 (AUD$3470). These are pristine like new conditions. In fact one probably won't even be able to tell new from these 2nd hand ones apart.


----------



## Anthony1

anakchan said:


> Is that new? Sounds reasonable. Tereon110 in Akihabara sells the approx Y327,000+ (*approx AUD$3925) with JP sales tax incl.
> 
> 2nd hand 009's have been sold for approx Y289,000 (AUD$3470). These are pristine like new conditions. In fact one probably won't even be able to tell new from these 2nd hand ones apart.




Hi AnakChan.. That price is new. I'm going to go with it and patiently wait for the next round of BHSE.


----------



## jaycalgary

Have fun waiting why not just put an order in for the new Stax 010's and you with probably get them at the same time?


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Thanks.. Wonder when Another run will be made.... I will want to get a unit from them..!!! Thanks for info... great help.! Hope Spritzer or Justin can inform me when they next have some units available..!! Cheers. to all Staxians on this blog...


 
   
  i found i still have a few of the PCBs for the bias supply


----------



## musicman59

It has been a week since I received my SR-009 and SRM-727II and I can say thatg I am NOW officially addicted to them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
  I thought I had great sound out of my fully loaded Woo WA5-LE and my Dark Star running top tier dynamic headphones like HD800, T1, D7000, DX1000, W3000ANV and the electromagnetic HE-6. Don't get me wrong all of them sound wonderful and still very happy with them BUT the level of detail and clarity of sound the SR-009 produce is at another level.
   
  I was listening to a live concert recording that I have listen to many many times and in the past I can head the background noise created by the audience but when I listened to it with the Stax combo my jaw dropped to the floor. The backgorund noise of the audience was so clear that I was able to actually distinguish words and comments made by the audience.. incredible!
   
  The level of detail, clarity and texture of the sound is somehitng I haev never heard before. Yes, they might not have the bass impact that some of my dynamic headphones have or even the HE-6 but the bass is there and the tones go low when it is in the recording.
   
  Expensive? check, Comfortable? check, Nice looking? check, Incredible sound? check, Addicted to them? check check


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> It has been a week since I received my SR-009 and SRM-727II and I can say thatg I am not officially addicted to them
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Are you being sarcastic? 'I am NOT officially addicted to them'.


----------



## n3rdling

I think he meant to type 'now'


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> It has been a week since I received my SR-009 and SRM-727II and I can say thatg I am not officially addicted to them
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ditto here also.
   
  Now add a Realiser with MCH (LFE CH) PRIR's from AIX, and you will put a "check" by the bass impact. Along with I could swear the sound is coming from C/LF/RF/LS/RS/LR/RR/SUB. 
   
  Now you know why I am not wanting for a high priced amp, not because I am being cheap but because the sound of the 009/727 is addictive.


----------



## musicman59

Sorry, my brain and fingers were not connected writing that word... I meant NOW.
  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> Are you being sarcastic? 'I am NOT officially addicted to them'.


----------



## musicman59

You were and are right about the 009/727 combo. Will the 009/A10 sound beter? Maybe but not $4,300 better.
  I have tried both the RAc and XRL inputs. I personally like the XLR better. I think the sound signature is the same but the XLR gives the amp more gain.
  Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Ditto here also.
> 
> Now add a Realiser with MCH (LFE CH) PRIR's from AIX, and you will put a "check" by the bass impact. Along with I could swear the sound is coming from C/LF/RF/LS/RS/LR/RR/SUB.
> 
> Now you know why I am not wanting for a high priced amp, not because I am being cheap but because the sound of the 009/727 is addictive.


----------



## mwilson

My SR-009 and WEE will arrive tomorrow. I'm really curious how they will sound; I've never listened to an electrostatic setup. The WEE will use the Resolution Audio C50 amplifier, itself a licensed design from DNM. The C50 has a very articulated, precise and extended sound to it, at least through my Audio Note AN-E speakers, and I wonder how much of that sonic signature will come across through the WEE.


----------



## Magick Man

mwilson said:


> My SR-009 and WEE will arrive tomorrow. I'm really curious how they will sound; I've never listened to an electrostatic setup. The WEE will use the Resolution Audio C50 amplifier, itself a licensed design from DNM. The C50 has a very articulated, precise and extended sound to it, at least through my Audio Note AN-E speakers, and I wonder how much of that sonic signature will come across through the WEE.



I really like my WEE, but don't know if I'd go with it as part of my primary setup. Mostly I use it when I want some triode ear candy from my Cary SLI-80, which it relays in spades and is very competent in handling. When I hooked it up to my RDA-7 or M2A I lost a little compared to the SRM-717. It wasn't "OMG, this SUCKS" but there was a loss of detail, weight, and transparency.

However, if I didn't have the 717 and only had the WEE, I probably wouldn't notice that anything was "off". It's only in direct comparison that the differences truly become apparent.


----------



## mwilson

Well I have a BHSE on order, so the WEE is a temporary solution. Still, I hope it will sound good.


----------



## Magick Man

mwilson said:


> Well I have a BHSE on order, so the WEE is a temporary solution. Still, I hope it will sound good.



It will, I'm sure. It's a decent backup and occasional alternative when you want to try a new amp.


----------



## schorsch

Just bought an interesting piece of electronic
   
  A Pawel HP-1 difusse field and binaural equalizer for the Stax SR007
   
  I really like the possiblity to use the ED-1 with my Lambdas. I'm really interested in hoe the Unit works)
   
  Any other people who have come across this equalizer so far?
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## n3rdling

Where'd you get it?  I've never heard of it but it sure sounds interesting.


----------



## padam

http://www.pawel-acoustics.ch/products.html
  There was one on eBay recently.


----------



## anetode

Sounds way interesting. Apparently there are different boards designed for specific stax models.


----------



## gilency

I have seen the web site before, but have never seen any English information on where and how to purchase it. Padam, any idea how much they sell for?


----------



## Audiogalore

Quote: 





magick man said:


> It will, I'm sure. It's a decent backup and occasional alternative when you want to try a new amp.


 

 When you have a transformer that only excites the stator of the electrostatic phone the sole purpose is to provide the bias voltage and not sound. The sound obtained is from your source>pre-amp>amp>headphone. If you have a sound signature that delivers what you like from your 2-channel speaker setup then it should also clone the same to your headphone.
   
  People who choose a individual headphone amp will certainly benefit more economically if they have not gone through the expense of say a well design pre-amp and a high current class A amp. Properly designed Individual components as mentioned can be much more costly than the individual single headphone amps such as a WES/BHSE or the A-10. If you already have such equipment than one can certainly enjoy to it max both speakers and headphones incorporating a exciter with their room speaker setup.
   
  Enjoy music!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Just bought an interesting piece of electronic
> 
> A Pawel HP-1 difusse field and binaural equalizer for the Stax SR007
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Please open it up and take some pics.  I does look a lot like a reverse engineered ED-1 which used a few opamp based EQ networks adjusted for a given target.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

When using the O2MKI+323 after 30-60 minutes I get my ears sore mostly because I have to raise the volume to more than I'm used, to get a better feel of the dynamics and extract more detail, there's also something strange on the treble.
  With the higher gain commercial albums it starts to get uncomfortable around 3.5-4> Vol. I'm admittedly a low volume listener and I'm sensitive to high spls
   
  Could this be a symptom of the amp not fully driving it or is just the nature of the O2 ?


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> When using the O2MKI+323 after 30-60 minutes I get my ears sore mostly because I have to raise the volume to more than I'm used, to get a better feel of the dynamics and extract more detail, there's also something strange on the treble.
> With the higher gain commercial albums it starts to get uncomfortable around 3.5-4> Vol. I'm admittedly a low volume listener and I'm sensitive to high spls
> 
> Could it be the amp or this is just the nature of the O2 ?


 
  I use the SR-007 and 323 (for classical music only) and I had to train myself to listen around 5 max in order to avoid getting my ears sore. I just ordered a pair of SR-009. I'll let you know whether they are better with that regard. I suspect they are!


----------



## TruBrew

I have not experienced any fatigue, but have otherwise had a similar experience. I find myself turning up the Mk1 a good bit more than my normal listening level. They can feel a bit distant, which leads me to do that. It can sometimes end up on the louder side, but that doesn't bother me too much. I would compair the SR-009 some more, but I worry that would keep me from selling them. If I do that how will I ever afford a new amp.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





trubrew said:


> I have not experienced any fatigue, but have otherwise had a similar experience. I find myself turning up the Mk1 a good bit more than my normal listening level. They can feel a bit distant, which leads me to do that. It can sometimes end up on the louder side, but that doesn't bother me too much. I would compair the SR-009 some more, but I worry that would keep me from selling them. If I do that how will I ever afford a new amp.


 
  Sell the SR-007, keep the SR-009 and get the 727, they pair extremely well together. In my opinion this will be superior than a BHSE/SR-007 combo (from what others have said, not my own personal experience)


----------



## pachku

Quote: 





> Just bought an interesting piece of electronic
> 
> A Pawel HP-1 difusse field and binaural equalizer for the Stax SR007


 
   
  Ah, you were the guy - 5 minutes ahead of me...


----------



## verwandlung

Can someone please explain what the Pawel HP-1 does exactly? I just read some review of the O2 and the 717 with the Pawel HP-1, but it is describing what it does only for rock music... Is it something which would do something good for classical music as well? Thanks.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> I use the SR-007 and 323 (for classical music only) and I had to train myself to listen around 5 max in order to avoid getting my ears sore. I just ordered a pair of SR-009. I'll let you know whether they are better with that regard. I suspect they are!


 
  I'm sure the 009 are better in that regard. My doubt is with the O2, It would help if some one with a KGSS/HV or a BHSE would chim in.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I'm sure the 009 are better in that regard. My doubt is with the O2, It would help if some one with a KGSS/HV or a BHSE would chim in.


 
  It would also be great to hear more people who have either the KGSS/HV or the BHSE and _do not think_ that the 009 is too bright. I know that those people exist, it just seems sometimes that only those who find a brightness issue post comments here!


----------



## Amarphael

It's all very subjective and the O2 will of course reveal any issues upstream but i certainly had a ton of piercing  upper mid and treble when i underamped mine thru a SRD-7 adapter (with some Crimson monoblocks). With the KGSS- No problem of that sort, just very balanced and well behaved (to say the least...) higer range across.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Sell the SR-007, keep the SR-009 and get the 727, they pair extremely well together. In my opinion this will be superior than a BHSE/SR-007 combo (from what others have said, not my own personal experience)


 
   
  I agree. That's what I would do…


----------



## vinyllp33

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> It would also be great to hear more people who have either the KGSS/HV or the BHSE and _do not think_ that the 009 is too bright. I know that those people exist, it just seems sometimes that only those who find a brightness issue post comments here!


 
  I think once the remainder of this batch of BHSE are shipped that you will find many impressions of that combo with the 009.
   
  At this level of resolution I feel the brightness issue is a moving target: First and foremost it will be dictated by the recording/mastering which is all over the map, and secondly the quality and signature of ones source and ancillary components.
   
  One thing I have found in the many years involved with this hobby is that most audiophiles perception of what live unamplified music sounds like and what their playback systems are reproducing are often on two entirely different planes.
   
  Case in point; Stand in front of a live big-band playing at full throttle, the resulting sound can literally make ones neck hairs stand up. The majority of audiophiles that would audition a system truly capable of reproducing that sheer amount of energy I wager would say it was "bright" sounding.


----------



## Golfnutz

Who are these people that have simultaneously owned the SR-007, SR-009, 727, and BHSE, and have said the SR-009 mates better with the 727 than the SR-007 does with the BHSE? I hope the comment isn't referring to people that have heard them briefly at meets. There are people that do actually prefer the 007 to the 009. And if that's the case, what amp should they be using?


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Hi
   
  Waiting for my SR-009+SRM-727 combo to arrive. Time is passing soooo slow.





   
  I'm going to use them with Electrocompaniet ECD-1 DAC. What do you think? Is ECD-1 good enough to use with SR-009?


----------



## sphinxvc

vinyllp33 said:


> I think once the remainder of this batch of BHSE are shipped that you will find many impressions of that combo with the 009.
> 
> At this level of resolution I feel the brightness issue is a moving target: First and foremost it will be dictated by the recording/mastering which is all over the map, and secondly the quality and signature of ones source and ancillary components.
> 
> ...




+1. So true.


----------



## GrosseFuge

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> +1. So true.


 
  Another +1 from a long time lurker. Very true!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Can someone please explain what the Pawel HP-1 does exactly? I just read some review of the O2 and the 717 with the Pawel HP-1, but it is describing what it does only for rock music... Is it something which would do something good for classical music as well? Thanks.


 
   
  It's an equalizer with numerous frequency networks to basically counter the natural output of the transducer and thus create an "out of head" experience.  In practice you take the transducer and measure it, crunch the numbers and adjust the equalizer to set the correct FR points and how quickly it falls/rises.  Similar to what the RIAA EQ does with vinyl and it is also "lossy" in the same way as you are always loosing some information.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's an equalizer with numerous frequency networks to basically counter the natural output of the transducer and thus create an "out of head" experience.  In practice you take the transducer and measure it, crunch the numbers and adjust the equalizer to set the correct FR points and how quickly it falls/rises.  Similar to what the RIAA EQ does with vinyl and it is also "lossy" in the same way as you are always loosing some information.


 
  Thanks Spritzer. It doesn't sound very good! Why on earth one would like to use that?


----------



## rudi0504

verwandlung said:


> It would also be great to hear more people who have either the KGSS/HV or the BhSE and _do not think_ that the 009 is too bright. I know that those people exist, it just seems sometimes that only those who find a brightness issue post comments here!




Before I bought my Stax Srm 727 Mk2 , I have tried for my Stax Sr 007 Mk2 with KGSS , but I do
Not like the Sound Quality , look like underpowered for my Stax Sr 007 Mk2.
I email the Stax Distro in Hong Kong and Singapore , what kind if Stax Amolifier has better. Power and Impact for my Stax Sr 007 Mk2.They suggest to buy Stax Srm 727 Mk2.

The reason I bought Stax Srm 727 Mk 2 , I can use Stax Srm 727 Mk2 as Power Amp and can drive with my Tube Pre Amp T+ A. P 10.2 from Germany .

Stax Sr 007 Mk 2 plus Stax Srm 727 Mk2 sound is better compare to Stax Sr 007 Mk 2 plus KGSS.More balance and has better impact .

For the best sounding Stax Sr 007 Mk 2 I ever heard to date , if I make my Stax Srm 727 Mk2 as
Power Amp and drive with my Tube Pre Amp T+A. P 10.2

Please see my personal impression below :

http://www.head-fi.org/t/608775/impression-stax-007-mk2-srm-727-mk2-as-active-speaker-drive-with-tube-pre-amp-t-a-p-10-2


----------



## forbigger

I beg to differ. There's no way kgss is underpowered vs 727. If you use your pre amp, then the 727 is just a transformer box relaying the power frm your pre amp. I put my money on kgss vs 727 anytime of the day.........


----------



## Il Mostro

What are the specific differences between the circuits of the KGGS and current Stax amps?  A lot of people are shooting from the hip, but I would be very interested in the *substantive* differences between the various designs.


----------



## forbigger

Power is one. Even though on paper but it translate to reality. For kgss vs 727, the power output is 1200v peak to peak vs 450v rms. Even though its different convention, kgss is still bigger if you translate to rms


----------



## behwatch

Finally bought my setup after testing many headphones. This is the best I have heard after comparing with HD800, LCD2 rev2, AKG K1000.
   
  HD800 is too bright even compared to K702 and CD900st. It is not comfortable to me as the ear foam is too rough against my skin. The imaging is too far that I can't hear the clinking sound of wine glasses striking in "Party Queen - Ayumi Hamasaki".
  LCD2 has a too heavy bass that mask out the mids and highs making it difficult for me to hear ppl singing. The bass is also not clean and clear. The imaging is too narrow too.
  AKG K1000 sounds plain to me with too light bass.
   
  As for the amp, I took 727II instead of 007II as the 007II sounds veiled to me and the bass has no impact. I hear more details through the solidstate amp.
   
  The setup is very fast and clean as it lets me hear each piano keys strike independently and not all together in a fast-paced piece like "Trois mouvements de Petrouchka - I. Danse russe". Even the JH13 is not as fast. The vocal is like the singer is beside you singing into your ears. I even found out some songs that the singer has sung out of beat.
   
  However the weight of the SR009 is quite heavy and you will need a strong neck to be able to listen to it for a long time unless you keep your head and body upright straight or maybe do some neck training LOL. Another flaw is that the cable is heavy and hard to handle as I need to keep sliding it back up the table when it slids down to touch the floor again.


----------



## Anaxilus

For the sake of curiosity, what amp(s) did you use w/ the dynamic cans?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SRM-323 is hamstrung by how much it costs to make and it's price bracket so only small heatsinks for the output devices and thus limited current.  It is a remarkable amp for the low price of 800$ and I can't think of any fully balanced amps for dynamics which come close to it in quality.  It's not perfect but still the best Stax amp one can buy for anywhere close to 1k$ new.
> 
> The Baldur, Aristaeus, HEV90 and GES all share a very similar circuit layout.  They are different but in broad strokes they are all very similar.  Any reason a GES would sound drastically different from an Aristaeus is that something was wrong with the GES.  It's also not the best idea in the world to use 12BZ7's in this circuit as they are similar but not the same.  I liked both of the GES amps I've heard but Woo have a tendency to mess up any circuit they touch with "improvements".  The 6S4A used in the GES is certainly the best output tube of the lot so the amp should be very good.


 
   
  I definitely agree that the 12BZ7 Jack sent me didn't sound good with 007 in the GES, while a quad of Telefunken Smooth Plate 12AX7 sounded outstanding.  The 12BZ7 were a bit darker and more closed in sounding.  What bugged me was that my maxed GES didn't sound much better than a basic GES, and I'd wasted about $1000 on the upgrades when tubes made a much bigger difference.


----------



## behwatch

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> For the sake of curiosity, what amp(s) did you use w/ the dynamic cans?


 
   
  Using the pico amp. I know that the amp is not the best to test with. But I heard the hd800s with lehmann audio amp resulting with the same review.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Thanks Spritzer. It doesn't sound very good! Why on earth one would like to use that?


 
   
  People use tube amps here which were considered inferior designs in the 50's so this certainly isn't as bad as that.  When you are messing with EQ there will always be some loss unless you do it all digitally in software.  Not really an option for Stax in the mid 80's and today there isn't enough interest for us to even contemplate a DIY version. 
   
  Quote: 





il mostro said:


> What are the specific differences between the circuits of the KGGS and current Stax amps?  A lot of people are shooting from the hip, but I would be very interested in the *substantive* differences between the various designs.


 
   
  Biggest issue with any of the Stax amps are the non regulated power supplies.  Only one Stax amp ever had a fully regulated PSU and it's an oddball in more ways than one.  Another factor which they have to deal with is weight and transformer size and heatsinks being the largest contributors to weight.  Cut the standing power of the output stage and you save on both heatsinks and transformer size.  Win, win in that regard but not something we have to think about with DIY or small scale production.  I have a fully populated KGSS circuit board sitting on my desk and it weighs close to 700gr.  This is the lightest part of the amp so add the PSU and a transformer plus the box. 
   
  Now a 717 is pretty much just a KGSS but Stax did do some changes to the circuit which makes it less linear than the stock design.  They clearly didn't want the "wire with gain" sound but the end result is just a bit more rounded, not unpleasant at all.  The 727 is a different design, more inline with the SRM-1 Mk2 legacy but with that stupid idea of cutting the feedback line short.  There are plenty of anti NFB people around (99.999% of whom have no idea what they are talking about though) but with a gain of 500 you need NFB.  Not too much but just enough to stabilize the circuit. 
   
  All in all I do think the Stax amps are great and they make commercial dynamic amps feel very cheap by comparison.  Most being some opamp based circuit with perhaps a crude buffer or a tube amp a tech from the 50's would know well.  Even the Stax tube amps are good but they are limited by what tubes are out there.  Once they move to the ECC99 exclusively then they will be much better since it can handle the extra voltage. 
   
  Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I definitely agree that the 12BZ7 Jack sent me didn't sound good with 007 in the GES, while a quad of Telefunken Smooth Plate 12AX7 sounded outstanding.  The 12BZ7 were a bit darker and more closed in sounding.  What bugged me was that my maxed GES didn't sound much better than a basic GES, and I'd wasted about $1000 on the upgrades when tubes made a much bigger difference.


 
   
  Stock polyprop caps are much better than people give them credit for.  Most "capacitor comparisons" you see will be in some sub-par circuit which favors a certain property of the capacitor so those caps will win out.


----------



## ri_toast

"Only one Stax amp ever had a fully regulated PSU"
  STAX SRA-12S? assuming this because you called it an oddball. I don't know, being curious. Plus I'd like the cookie for being correct, an ice cube would also be an adequate acceptable prize.


----------



## kevin gilmore

SRM300/SRM310 is the only stax amp with a regulated power supply.
   
  The srmXh,srm212, sr001 are all switchers and could be closed loop
  regulated, but are not actually wired for feedback.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





pachku said:


> Ah, you were the guy - 5 minutes ahead of me...


 

 Dear pachku,
   
  I bought mine from a local dealer here in Germany. How much did the Unit on ebay sell for?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Please open it up and take some pics.  I does look a lot like a reverse engineered ED-1 which used a few opamp based EQ networks adjusted for a given target.


 

 Dear spritzer
   
  I'll take some photos on Monday on put them here on head-fi. There are two articles on the HP-1 on the pawel homepage. There is also a picture of inside in one of them.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

I've seen that picture but I just want to be sure what we are dealing with. 
   
  Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> "Only one Stax amp ever had a fully regulated PSU"
> STAX SRA-12S? assuming this because you called it an oddball. I don't know, being curious. Plus I'd like the cookie for being correct, an ice cube would also be an adequate acceptable prize.


 
   
  The SRA-12S has a regulated low voltage supply but the HV is just made up of twp 320V filter capacitors stacked.  The SRM-300 is just the SRM-001 amp on steroids so quite the oddball.


----------



## gilency

How much do they sell for and how does the sr007 sounds with it?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





behwatch said:


> Finally bought my setup after testing many headphones. This is the best I have heard after comparing with HD800, LCD2 rev2, AKG K1000.
> 
> HD800 is too bright even compared to K702 and CD900st. It is not comfortable to me as the ear foam is too rough against my skin. The imaging is too far that I can't hear the clinking sound of wine glasses striking in "Party Queen - Ayumi Hamasaki".
> LCD2 has a too heavy bass that mask out the mids and highs making it difficult for me to hear ppl singing. The bass is also not clean and clear. The imaging is too narrow too.
> ...


 
   
  SR-009 heavy???? Compare to what? Ok, if you compare them to the HD800 I would say yes they are heavier but compared to the LCD-2, LCD-3 or HE-6 they feel like a feather


----------



## behwatch

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> SR-009 heavy???? Compare to what? Ok, if you compare them to the HD800 I would say yes they are heavier but compared to the LCD-2, LCD-3 or HE-6 they feel like a feather


 
   
  I mean heavy when wearing on head. I have tried lcd2, hd800 and w3000x but not the he-6 and lcd3. it may be the mechanism.


----------



## Magick Man

Compared to the 009s, the big orthos are like balancing a decent sized cat on your head.


----------



## jaycalgary

009's are about the same weight as 007's? If they are that is reasonable. I went to a meet and heard LSD2 and HE500 and they feel at least twice the weight. To me that is a deal breaker.


----------



## sphinxvc

Ha.  Weight; I can handle.  It's the price of these 009 + amps that are a deal breaker for me.  =]


----------



## Magick Man

Yeah, luckily I prefer the sound of the 007s, I feel like a dodged a bullet.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Compared to the 009s, the big orthos are like balancing a decent sized cat on your head.


----------



## Elysian

I looked online for the weight of the SR007 and SR009.  Stax says that the SR007 is 18.1oz with the cable, and a few sites say the SR009 is 21.3oz, presumably with the cable.
   
  In my experience, the weight between the two headphones is pretty close, though the SR009 without cable feels subjectively lighter to me than the SR007.  That might be because I handle other peoples' SR009s with a bit of excessive care 
   
  The SR007s are the most comfortable headphones I've ever used.  The SR009 is not quite as comfortable, but it still fits me much better than the Audeze and HiFiMAN's.  I've never had any head, neck, or shoulder strain from either headphone.  I wouldn't disqualify either headphone based on ergonomics.


----------



## MayaTlab

Hi, I just have a very quick question, out of curiosity : when plugging my Stax headphones (SR 507) into the 323S, I sometimes hear a little pop (sometimes not). I've never bothered with that very much, but is it the stators discharging in the same way they do when touching the plug after unplugging it ?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> 009's are about the same weight as 007's? If they are that is reasonable. I went to a meet and heard LSD2 and HE500 and they feel at least twice the weight. To me that is a deal breaker.


 
   
  You heard LSD2 at a meet?  Really.  Must have been a helluva meet.  All there was at the meet I went to was beer.


----------



## jaycalgary

I think there was more LSD2's than anything else. Might have be a tie with the HD800's.


----------



## anetode

jaycalgary said:


> I think there was more LSD2's than anything else. Might have be a tie with the HD800's.




I sure hope no one dropped anything.


----------



## musicman59

That's what I meant. There is no way the SR-009 are or feel heavier on the head then the LCD-2 or 3 and the HE-6.
  Quote: 





behwatch said:


> I mean heavy when wearing on head. I have tried lcd2, hd800 and w3000x but not the he-6 and lcd3. it may be the mechanism.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gilency said:


> How much do they sell for and how does the sr007 sounds with it?


 
   
  The SRM-300 then?  They are discontinued and the SR-007 is not recommended with that amp.  The SRA-12S hasn't been made in 30 years and it requires complete refurbishing at this point.


----------



## gilency

Spritzer, my question was about the cost of the Pawel HP1 system.
Sorry I was not clear enough.


----------



## madbull

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Except when he ignores direct questions. Twice.


 
   
  Lurking around the thread, as I'm soon to become a happy SR-007 and GES amp owner, I must say that I've had the same problem, unfortunately. Not that it's a big deal specfically (it didn't prevent me from buying), but it happenned. Maybe Mr. Woo is a little too busy sometimes - that's allright.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I looked online for the weight of the SR007 and SR009.  Stax says that the SR007 is 18.1oz with the cable, and a few sites say the SR009 is 21.3oz, presumably with the cable.
> 
> In my experience, the weight between the two headphones is pretty close, though the SR009 without cable feels subjectively lighter to me than the SR007.  That might be because I handle other peoples' SR009s with a bit of excessive care
> 
> The SR007s are the most comfortable headphones I've ever used.  The SR009 is not quite as comfortable, but it still fits me much better than the Audeze and HiFiMAN's.  I've never had any head, neck, or shoulder strain from either headphone.  I wouldn't disqualify either headphone based on ergonomics.


 

 My experience is completely different, I find the SR-009 almost perfect in terms of comfort, with the SR-007 pretty far behind. Weight is not an issue for me, it's just grip and ear contact, there's almost none on the 009 and quite a lot on the 007. Just curious, are you talking about the Mk1 or Mk2 and which pads are you using?


----------



## schorsch

Hello,
   
  here are the photos from the outside and inside of the Pawel HP-1





   
  Hope you enjoy)
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: I'm going to put a SRX MKIII PRO!!! on ebay in the next days


----------



## schorsch

New info on the Malvalve amp
   
  http://www.malvalve.de/head3.html
   
  It works with electrostatic and dynamic headphones ....
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> New info on the Malvalve amp
> 
> http://www.malvalve.de/head3.html
> 
> ...


 
   
  Looks interesting.  From the pictures, it seems they really aren't encouraging tube-rolling.  I don't see any information on pricing and availability either.


----------



## mwilson

I've seen that last year if I recall correctly. Don't remember if it was a render or an actual product photo. I might give them a call tomorrow, gotta polish up on my German now.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> My experience is completely different, I find the SR-009 almost perfect in terms of comfort, with the SR-007 pretty far behind. Weight is not an issue for me, it's just grip and ear contact, there's almost none on the 009 and quite a lot on the 007. Just curious, are you talking about the Mk1 or Mk2 and which pads are you using?


 
   
  I have an MK2.  The MK1 is not as comfortable for me.
   
  It's probably different head shapes, as your criticism of the 007 is similar to how I feel about the 009.


----------



## rudi0504

musicman59 said:


> It has been a week since I received my SR-009 and SRM-727II and I can say thatg I am NOW officially addicted to them  .
> I thought I had great sound out of my fully loaded Woo WA5-LE and my Dark Star running top tier dynamic headphones like HD800, T1, D7000, DX1000, W3000ANV and the electromagnetic HE-6. Don't get me wrong all of them sound wonderful and still very happy with them BUT the level of detail and clarity of sound the SR-009 produce is at another level.
> 
> I was listening to a live concert recording that I have listen to many many times and in the past I can head the background noise created by the audience but when I listened to it with the Stax combo my jaw dropped to the floor. The backgorund noise of the audience was so clear that I was able to actually distinguish words and comments made by the audience.. incredible!
> ...




I am agree with your impression above , now I have only sr 007 mk 2 and Srm 727 mk2
In between my Cd Player and IMac I add Eximus Dp 1 as DAC .
The Sound Quality improve in term of detail and clarity and also the background from my 
Sr 007 mk 2 .become more black .the Separation also better and the soundstage also bigger .
As you feel in live concert hall.

I am very happy with my new Stax set up : St 007 mk 2 and Srm 727 mk 2
If I need better SQ with better power and bass impact , I can connect to my pre amp. T+A. P 10.2

I have many dynamic and ortho high end headphones like : LCD 3 , HD 800 , T 1 , Ed 8 
My impression the same like you , can not have detail like what I hear from my Stax set up 

My wishes : for the next step to buy Stax Sr 009 like yours 

I can suggest you please add : Eximus Dp 1 , you can hear more from your Sr 009

You can use your WA 5 LE as pre amp and use your Stax Srm 727 mk 2 as Power. amp 
You can have more power and deep bass and tight bass.
I do not know your WA 5 LE can use as pre amp like my tube pre amp T+ A P 10.2 or not ?

My impression for Stax set up is below :

http://www.head-fi.org/t/608775/impression-stax-007-mk2-srm-727-mk2-as-active-speaker-drive-with-tube-pre-amp-t-a-p-10-2


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> New info on the Malvalve amp
> 
> http://www.malvalve.de/head3.html
> 
> ...


 
  The outputs are on the back. What a pain. A Stax cable is only 2.5 meters (and the Stax extension cords screw up the sound in my experience). I guess you could face the back of it and somehow get some remote transponder for the volume.
  I wonder what it costs.
  Well, the really nice thing about it is the 127-step attenuator.


----------



## HDMan

The Malvalve realy looks like a serious peice of equipment, I wonder how it sounds with the TOTL Stax. Waiting for Spritzer and Kevin to give it an eyepress on the internals


----------



## arnaud

I would have preferred plugs on the bottom plate and that it has speakers taps (for 1ohm 84dBSPL/1m speakers), and if possible 7.1 out + toaster and microwave because I like to make compromises.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The Malvalve looks to be a nice unit.  Switchers for all the power supplies.
   
  Can't tell if the electrostatic outputs are a seperate winding on the output
  transformers, or directly off the plates of the power tubes. Both would
  have significantly different sound signatures.
   
  If they are driven off the plates of the power tubes, this would be similar
  to a WES with the inductors replaced by a transformer.
   
  Reminds me of a Mcintosh mc240.
   
  This is not a cheap unit.


----------



## mwilson

OK, got some more info on Mal Valve: Cost to USA is EUR 3,361 + delivery. They have a few units in stock ready for shipping now, otherwise the next batch will be available in a couple of months. Gonna find out about the electrostatic output shortly.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Spritzer
  What do you think pairing the  STAX 20 year old SR-OMEGA with te ss 323s amp. Do you think it will sound good?
  Thanks


----------



## musicman59

mwilson said:


> OK, got some more info on Mal Valve: Cost to USA is EUR 3,361 + delivery. They have a few units in stock ready for shipping now, otherwise the next batch will be available in a couple of months. Gonna find out about the electrostatic output shortly.



It is not cheap but if it performs at the level of dynamic headphones and electrostatic headphones top tier amps it will be cheaper and more convenient.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> New info on the Malvalve amp
> 
> http://www.malvalve.de/head3.html
> 
> ...


 
   
  Any chance they can hook you up with a loaner unit for impressions and pics?  Shelling out $4k USD blind doesn't seem like a sound decision.


----------



## mwilson

My main concern, besides getting one "sound unheard", is it being jack of all trades and master of none.
   
  Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> It is not cheap but if it performs at the level of dynamic headphones and electrostatic headphones top tier amps it will be cheaper and more convenient.


----------



## cat6man

Hi folks,
   
  I'm going to be selling off some of my audio equipment to finance my purchase of a BHSE (and then upgrade my cans after that).
   
  I have a SR-Lambda Pro Classic in good condition that I bought used a number of years ago and have since upgraded to a 404LE.
   
  I looked in the for sale forum but only see Lambda Nova Classic, so I'm not really sure what a good asking price would be.
  Can someone help me determine a fair price?
   
  Thanks


----------



## schorsch

Malvalve amp - the big brother,
   
  There will be a "bigger" malvalve amp for Stax headphones only called:
   
  power amp one OTL-Stax
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: That's what Mr Mallach wrote in an Email to me some time ago. I'm really curious to try the malvalve amps becuase they have a very good reputation and all their stuff is hard to find second hand.


----------



## Magick Man

Will one of you please buy that damned set of HE90s in the FS forum? The temptation is eating at me.


----------



## anetode

Just buy it now and list it on ebay for 12k$. At worst you'll be stuck listening to an HE90 for a few months before making a few grand for the trouble.


----------



## ardilla

Where can one get a Stax 007mk1 *HEADBAND*?


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





fgjlsw said:


> Okay, to get the ball rolling there is an interesting discussion on 2channel currently about the difference in sound depending on whether the earpads seal or not.http://www.beats-bydre.net A chap was kind enough to offer these graphs of his 404, although he made pains to say that they shouldn't be considered especially accurate, particularly in the treble.


 
   I don't think you are going to find much interest for Dr. Dre's phones in this forum.


----------



## Magick Man

I refuse to put one virtual foot into that place, I pucker up as tight as a snare drum just thinking about it. :eek:


----------



## akwok

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I don't think you are going to find much interest for Dr. Dre's phones in this forum.


 
   
  'tis a spambot.


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





akwok said:


> 'tis a spambot.


 
   
  I wonder how this one gets the relevancy though? Spambots read the threads now and make educated/proofread responses? Craziness.


----------



## Magick Man

anetode said:


> Just buy it now and list it on ebay for 12k$. At worst you'll be stuck listening to an HE90 for a few months before making a few grand for the trouble.




Because I won't, I know how I operate. I'll enjoy them, they'll stick around, and every time I think about selling them off I'll make a small whimpering sound.


----------



## ujamerstand

Quote: 





obzilla said:


> I wonder how this one gets the relevancy though? Spambots read the threads now and make educated/proofread responses? Craziness.


 
   
  Simple. You take a sentence from a few post back, then append your own sentence at the end. Or, in this case, insert a link in the middle of the paragraph.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi.. Anyone has feed back re sound of Stax SR Omega cans (15 years old but still tip top condition powered by SRM1/Mk2 pro) put though the newer SR 323s amps? Wonder if the #23s is better tan the older SRM1/Mk2 pros? Will appreciate any feed back Also, Has anyone done a comparison between SR Omega vs The latest 507.. in terms of sound improvements,if any, by the 507. Thanks


----------



## n3rdling

SR Omega sounds way better than any Lambda...


----------



## YOONG 2112

n3rdling. From your arsenal of cans n gears ,I guess you have done some comparison. Just that I have read the ravings about the latest Lamdas,esp 507 that I want to check the merits of these compared to the older SR Omega. What about The Srm1/mk2 pro with the SR323s? Is there a difference in audible sound quality? ie dynamics,tonal characteristics etc ? Spritzer sees the 323s being one of the best value amps in Stax stable currently on offer. ..but does it match or better the older srm1 solid states amp by Stax ? hope to get feedback from you and the gurus in this forum.Thanks


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





obzilla said:


> I wonder how this one gets the relevancy though? Spambots read the threads now and make educated/proofread responses? Craziness.


 
   
  it's copying posts from earlier in the thread
   
post #16867


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I don't think you are going to find much interest for Dr. Dre's phones in this forum.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:  





> Wonder if the #23s is better tan the older SRM1/Mk2 pros? Will appreciate any feed back


 
   
  SRM-323S is much better than the SRM-1Mk2 yes.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


>


 
  You win the internet.


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> it's copying posts from earlier in the thread
> 
> post #16867


 
   
  I see. Still, more clever than the usual broken English madness that they usually go with.


----------



## graben

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> SRM-323S is much better than the SRM-1Mk2 yes.


 
  I will agree that it is better as well. But for an Omega 2 it really needs something more powerful than a 323 to sound a great deal better than a Lambda. Don't get me wrong, it of course sounds better but in my opinion not worth the price difference. If you are getting an Omega 2 get a 717 or better.


----------



## spritzer

Thanks for the pics of the Pawel box.  Certainly the same idea as the Stax boxes but with no trimpots in sight, I wonder how they are adjusted... 
   
  I like that Malvalve amp but how it sounds all depends on how the electrostatic output is handled. 
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> and the Stax extension cords screw up the sound in my experience


 
   
  Ok, that made me laugh.  Where is the facepalm smiley when you need it...


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Thanks for the pics of the Pawel box.  Certainly the same idea as the Stax boxes but with no trimpots in sight, I wonder how they are adjusted...
> 
> I like that Malvalve amp but how it sounds all depends on how the electrostatic output is handled.
> 
> ...


 
   
  My Stax extension cable (SRE-725 I think) is black, ergo vis a vis the blacks are more blacker with it in place


----------



## blubliss

Yeah, I refrained from saying anything the comment was just so inane.  And yes I have an extension cable and have used it.  There is absolutely no difference.


----------



## sridhar3

The extension cable makes my headphones sound more extended.


----------



## verwandlung

Well, it may depend on how old you are... let me just say that  at least with the BHSE I can hear some brightness when I use it, which is no longer there when the extension cable is paired with the WES.


----------



## Magick Man

sridhar3 said:


> The extension cable makes my headphones sound more extended.



It increases the depth of soundstage on mine and really bring out the mids. For serious, the change is like night and day.


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Well, it may depend on how old you are... let me just say that  at least with the BHSE I can hear some brightness when I use it, which is no longer there when the extension cable is paired with the WES.


 
   
  Wait, you stop hearing brightness on the BHSE when you use an extension cable on the WES?
   
  Did I just read that right?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> SR Omega sounds way better than any Lambda...


 
  well considering the ESP950 walks all over the lambda series..this is not too hard to fathom.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Well, it may depend on how old you are... let me just say that  at least with the BHSE I can hear some brightness when I use it, which is no longer there when the extension cable is paired with the WES.


 
   
  So you're saying the extension cable affects sound quality as much as a change in amplifier does?
   
  I'm 26, by the way.  Am I too young or too old to hear the difference?  Please tell me, I'm dying to know.


----------



## rgs9200m

I find the Stax extension cord (even the short one) degrades the sound (bass is not as transparent). I found this was true with my Lambdas and 007s years ago and 009s now.
  It's a pain because it's only an approx 8-foot+ cable, but I put up with it to avoid muddy sonics.


----------



## akwok

When you use an extension cable, the sound particles have to travel much farther, and when they do some of them get weaker so the sound isn't as clear.


----------



## Magick Man

akwok said:


> When you use an extension cable, the sound particles have to travel much farther, and when they do some of them get weaker so the sound isn't as clear.




Dammit, I spit milk and cheerios on to my keyboard. Thanks a whole lot.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Dammit, I spit milk and cheerios on to my keyboard. Thanks a whole lot.


 

 Lol, more seriously though, aren't there two versions of the extension cable, one that uses the old PC-OCC SR-007 cord, and a newer one that uses Stax's new SPC cord? Or am I wrong? I wouldn't recommend that anyone splice two different types of cables together, that's going to affect the sound.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Lol, more seriously though, aren't there two versions of the extension cable, one that uses the old PC-OCC SR-007 cord, and a newer one that uses Stax's new SPC cord? Or am I wrong? I wouldn't recommend that anyone splice two different types of cables together, that's going to affect the sound.


 
   
  Yep, that's accurate.  The older one is pure copper, and the new one is silver-plated copper I think.  As you say, the pure copper is for the 007, and the newer one is for the 009.  I believe they're also color-coordinated (the old one is brown and the new one is black).


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> So you're saying the extension cable affects sound quality as much as a change in amplifier does?
> 
> I'm 26, by the way.  Am I too young or too old to hear the difference?  Please tell me, I'm dying to know.


 
   
  It all depends on your zodiac ascendant...


----------



## wink

I think a close inspection and testing of the stax extension cord is indicated...
   
  Could be a bad connection somewhere.


----------



## Il Mostro

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Yep, that's accurate.  The older one is pure copper, and the new one is silver-plated copper I think.  As you say, the pure copper is for the 007, and the newer one is for the 009.  I believe they're also color-coordinated (the old one is brown and the new one is black).


 
   
  You nailed it -- all 100% correct.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> n3rdling. From your arsenal of cans n gears ,I guess you have done some comparison. Just that I have read the ravings about the latest Lamdas,esp 507 that I want to check the merits of these compared to the older SR Omega. What about The Srm1/mk2 pro with the SR323s? Is there a difference in audible sound quality? ie dynamics,tonal characteristics etc ? Spritzer sees the 323s being one of the best value amps in Stax stable currently on offer. ..but does it match or better the older srm1 solid states amp by Stax ? hope to get feedback from you and the gurus in this forum.Thanks


 
   
  Sorry, I haven't owned the 323 in the past so I can't really say.  That being said, I'd probably take the 323 since the SRM1's are pretty old and need new caps.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> OK, got some more info on Mal Valve: Cost to USA is EUR 3,361 + delivery. They have a few units in stock ready for shipping now, otherwise the next batch will be available in a couple of months. Gonna find out about the electrostatic output shortly.


 
  It looks like the MalValve wont take a pair of 3-pin XLR inputs from balanced dynamic phones (just single-ended 1/4-inch or 4-pin connectors).


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> It looks like the MalValve wont take a pair of 3-pin XLR inputs from balanced dynamic phones (just single-ended 1/4-inch or 4-pin connectors).


 
   
  There's no difference between 2x3pin and 4pin, aside from the obvious (vis-a-vis 2x3pin being bulky and annoying).  Just get an adapter or a retermination or something.


----------



## n3rdling

4 pin sounds better because 4 < 3 x 2!!!  Less pins, less in da wayz!!


----------



## mwilson

Just heard back from them. Output is off the tubes directly ("as it should be" he added )



kevin gilmore said:


> The Malvalve looks to be a nice unit.  Switchers for all the power supplies.
> 
> Can't tell if the electrostatic outputs are a seperate winding on the output
> transformers, or directly off the plates of the power tubes. Both would
> ...


----------



## Radio_head

Going to take the plunge for the rest of us Nick?  You could have the Cantata all-in-one media center and the Malvalve all-in-one headphone amp.  If only somebody could make the all-in-one headphone you'd be set.


----------



## mwilson

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Going to take the plunge for the rest of us Nick?  You could have the Cantata all-in-one media center and the Malvalve all-in-one headphone amp.  If only somebody could make the all-in-one headphone you'd be set.


 
   
  Um... no. My all-in-one brain tells me to stay away.


----------



## sridhar3

I'd want to know what the voltage swing is before I even considered purchasing one.  Some listening impressions would be nice too.  Any chance of a local Head-Fier getting a demo unit?


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> I'd want to know what the voltage swing is before I even considered purchasing one.  Some listening impressions would be nice too.  Any chance of a local Head-Fier getting a demo unit?


 
   
  OMG (as my daughter would say)..........you're getting a BHSE and still looking at other stuff.  i thought once you're married to an amp you stop that behavior.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> OMG (as my daughter would say)..........you're getting a BHSE and still looking at other stuff.  i thought once you're married to an amp you stop that behavior.


 
   
  I was going to get the LL by the end of the year anyway.  The Mal Valve is just another option.  Who knows, maybe I'll end up with three stat amps!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  It's in my avatar, after all:


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> I was going to get the LL by the end of the year anyway.  The Mal Valve is just another option.  Who knows, maybe I'll end up with three stat amps!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  my wallet believes in electrostatic monogamy!


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> my wallet believes in electrostatic monogamy!


 

 Does this make me an audio Mormon?


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Does this make me an audio Mormon?


 
   
  That depends, do you wear magic underwear? If not, then you're just a player.


----------



## cat6man

a level matching question:
  the 009 is more sensitive than the 007.
   
  which is closer in sensitivity to my 404LE?  will the 009 be louder or softer than my 404LE at the same drive level?


----------



## spritzer

It's been way too long since I've had a 404LE here but the Lambda should be a bit more sensitive. 
   
  Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Does this make me an audio Mormon?


 
   
  No, anything under 10 amps is just posing.  I would probably go into withdrawal if my main rig didn't have at least 5 Stax amps at any given time.


----------



## DolphinG

Well, looks like many STAX users are more interested in Omegas (Omega, 007, 009..)
   
  I've also used 007 and 009 for several months with SRM-717, but I prefer Lambda series to Omegas.
   
  Maybe I should try other amps, but I think that the best model of STAX is Lambda headphones, especially the first generations.
   
  But it does not mean that Omega headphones are bad.
   
  Maybe I;m too accustomed to Lambda headphones too much, since I first knew STAX.


----------



## rgs9200m

That Mal Valve amp has 10 tubes (with 4 6V6 tubes). How hot should that thing run? Thanks.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Well, there is about 20 watts of filament power alone.

So yes it's going to run rather warm


----------



## obzilla

Quote: 





jim green said:


> I buoght a good quality headphone  at half price in www.stereostart.com , I am so happy , it is so wonderful , the sound quality is pretty good


 
   
  OMG THAT IS AWESOME. TAKE MY MONEY.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





jim green said:


> I buoght a good quality headphone  at half price in www.stereostart.com , I am so happy , it is so wonderful , the sound quality is pretty good


 
   
  Perhaps something just slightly more subtle would help your cause...


----------



## Anaxilus

Don't feed the phish.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Don't feed the phish.


 
   
  Only with good poisonous food! You get rid of them faster than by letting them starving...


----------



## sridhar3

Alright, so I managed to get in touch with Mr. Dieter Mallach, the gentleman who runs Mal Valve.  It took him a few days to get back to me, but he did answer all my questions in detail.  Please bear with me here. I'm not an expert on this stuff, so if some of these points seem stupid/obvious, I simply asked because I'm dumb.
  -Electrostatic voltage is 800v p2p, 290v RMS
  -Parallel push-pull, all stages Class A
  -You can't use all six outputs at once.  You can toggle between the 2 ES outputs, and the 4 dynamic outputs.
  -It's designed to accommodate tube-rolling if that's your thing.
  -A bit more information has been added to the website.  There's a remote control for volume.  (link: http://www.malvalve.de/head3.html)
   
  Also, Mr. Mallach was kind enough to send along a few more pictures of the guts (driver stage/tubes, power stage, volume control, and some other stuff I can't identify because I'm dumb):


----------



## musicman59

I just don't like the output jacks at the back. I don't think is practical for headphones.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





dolphing said:


> Well, looks like many STAX users are more interested in Omegas (Omega, 007, 009..)
> 
> I've also used 007 and 009 for several months with SRM-717, but I prefer Lambda series to Omegas.
> 
> ...


 

 I really like them too)
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

The Malvalve looks very well built and makes the WES look very poor indeed.  I'm sure the audiophools will frown at the Epcos coupling caps and it will not rival the BHSE but I see no reason why should be a good jack of all trades.  The only thing I don't like are the switching power supplies but something's got to give to make it this small.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> There's a remote control for volume


 
   
  Not that I'm lazy, but one thing I'd have liked with the BHSE I've ordered, would have been a volume remote control.


----------



## TruBrew

I agree, but I would like it because I am lazy. That is part of the reason I bought the W4S DAC-2. If I could only integrate the DAC-2's volume control into itunes.


----------



## David1961

I think there is a way round it and that's by getting a preamp with a volume remote control, but I don't know what that would do to the BHSE.  I've also ordered my BHSE with the RK50.


----------



## vinyllp33

​


david1961 said:


> I think there is a way round it and that's by getting a preamp with a volume remote control, but I don't know what that would do to the BHSE.  I've also ordered my BHSE with the RK50.




I am going to be trying this very combination very shortly; I also opted for the RK50 which to me was a no brainier.

You see I want to also use my turntable which I can run true balanced (tape-out) from my preamp but also, of course, need to run my DAC.

The most direct route would be DAC balanced into the BHSE bypassing the preamp. But then to spin vinyl I would need to remove the cables and connect to the preamp. I think this will get tiresome after my first listening session.

So I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I am going to run the BHSE 24/7 from the balanced tape out. However if I am already introducing a perceived "compromise" then the next logical step is to proceed one step further:

Pre-Out to the BHSE, this way I can use my remote for volume adjustment which would be a huge convenience as recordings are all over the map in this regard.

Now being a devout purist if any of these aforementioned combinations prove to be inferior to "direct" mode then I will do what I have to do for the most optimum sound.

YMMV.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Well, there is about 20 watts of filament power alone.
> So yes it's going to run rather warm


 
  Thanks Kevin. 
   
The nicest things to me about the Mal Valve (just in terms of functionality) that seems to make it unique are:
   
[1] It supports both Dynamic and Electrostatic phones (I believe most of the stat amps do not handle dynamics: BHSE, Woo WES, RSA A10);
[2] It has a 127-step volume control (I find the common 23-step Dact CT2 attenuator maddeningly frustrating sometimes when trying to get a precise level,
     since the early steps are 2-3db apart at more than 40db attenuation);
[3] The remote volume control (not really necessary, but sure nice to have, since it's hard to sit near a tube amp that is generating heat).


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





vinyllp33 said:


> So I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I am going to run the BHSE 24/7


 
   
  Are you really sure you want to do that, seriously? What do you do for a living, if anything? (Pyromaniac) _Firefighter? _I am just asking!


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> [3] The remote volume control (not really necessary, _but sure nice to have, since it's hard to sit near a tube amp that is generating heat)._


 
   
  I never owned a tube amp, but is it that bad? May I ask you with what amps specifically you have been experiencing such a heat problem?


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> I never owned a tube amp, but is it that bad?


 
   
  Depends on the tubes and topology.  T2 burns like the sun though I'm sure the transistors are playing their part as well.  I wonder how much cooler the SS version would be.


----------



## vinyllp33

verwandlung said:


> Are you really sure you want to do that, seriously? What do you do for a living, if anything? (Pyromaniac) _Firefighter? _I am just asking!




No I would never dream on doing that.

I just meant that more than likely my day to day, consistent set up would be the BHSE running balanced from the tape out on my preamp so I can use both phono and digital on the fly without having to keep swapping cables.


----------



## spritzer

The BHSE has three inputs and both RCA and XLR loop outs so is should be easy enough to integrate into a system.  There is really no benefit in going with balanced over single ended as any difference will be down to how the source generates each output. 
   
  My source has something which is useful for stuff like this, an analog pass through so a phono amp can be used in an all digital system. 
   
  Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Depends on the tubes and topology.  T2 burns like the sun though I'm sure the transistors are playing their part as well.  I wonder how much cooler the SS version would be.


 
   
  There will never be a T2 without tubes so you'll always have the hungry EL34's to content with.  A ss driver stage would save a whopping 7W in filament power but probably make up for it with extra constant current sources. 
   
  Most of the heat generated by either the BHSE or the T2 is indeed from the transistors.  High bias current Class A will always generate a lot of heat even when the ultimate output power is miniscule as is the case here.  Old school tube amp design also gives off a lot of heat in resistors and inductors but at lower performance.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> I never owned a tube amp, but is it that bad? May I ask you with what amps specifically you have been experiencing such a heat problem?


 
  Actually mine aren't that bad (Stax 007t, Pinnacle, RSA B52), that's why I said not really necessary, and if I do sit a few feet away and need to get up and adjust things 
  it's better for me anyway. 
  But some of the tubed amps I don't own I tried at demonstrations were annoyingly hot, and I could never deal with them close up.


----------



## sachu

Any Class A amp is going to be running fairly hot.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





sachu said:


> Any Class A amp is going to be running fairly hot.


 
  Do you mean like Pass (speaker) amps and Beta 22s?


----------



## anetode

If you're worried about heat, just get an SRM-252/SRM-300, or a D class to transformer setup. A 50-something watt ss stax amp isn't that bad, my mousepad is right next to mine and my hand never gets warm from it.


----------



## verwandlung

I am not particularly worried about heat, especially since I rarely listen to music for more than an hour, an hour and a half at the most. I was just surprised by the “need” for a remote control because of heat.


----------



## David1961

Heat the BHSE is supposed to give off doesn't bother me because where I live at times, gets quite cold. However nowhere near as cold as where Birgir lives.


----------



## thinker

Mal Valve  at Munich high-end
   
  On the left SR-009, the sound was incredible airy with the Mal Valve amp


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





thinker said:


> Mal Valve  at Munich high-end
> 
> On the left SR-009, the sound was incredible airy with the Mal Valve amp


 
  Those speakers- what are those oval shaped things? Some kind of felt around a tweeter array of some kind or-  ?


----------



## Michgelsen

Very large Lambda drivers.


----------



## rgs9200m

I just mentioned the heat because I sat near a Woo WES and started to sweat from the heat on my face right up near it.
  I'm just used to the gentle warmth of my Stax 007t amp and it was a little startling.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Those speakers- what are those oval shaped things? Some kind of felt around a tweeter array of some kind or-  ?


 

 Well they produce speakers with their magnetostatic and electrostatic panels. Visit their website to get more information if you like.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## DolphinG

As I used many of STAX headphones, I'm now trying many other gears, such as speaker or source components.
   
  Recently I'm using ESTA4u and DAC Talent, and it made me love STAX more.
   
  Especially I like ESTA4u speaker.
   
  Not so good at English, to write a review of this speaker and components, but I hope STAX can earn much money to produce old products again.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Well they produce speakers with their magnetostatic and electrostatic panels. Visit their website to get more information if you like.
> 
> Regards Georg


 
  Ah, I see, these  speakers are also from Mal Valve.
   
  Reading about their MalStat 4 -  electrostatic tweeter, magnetostatic (i.e, planar-magnetic) midrange and meagnetostatic (planar magnetic) bass- they claim 98 dB /1 watt  efficiency, which is rather amazing.  The woofer is a planar driver in a sealed box.  They must have some REALLY powerful magnets in the woofer and midrange drivers and some REALLY high voltage in the tweeter to offer that kind of efficiency.
   

   
  From their site at http://www.malvalve.de/malstat4.html
   
 [size=medium] 
 [size=small]data[/size][/size]
 [size=medium] [size=small]- Impedance 4, 8 or 16 ohms 
 -> carrying capacity 500 watt 
 - frequency response 20 Hz - 30 kHz 
 - transition frequencies 250 Hz/5000 Hz 
 - efficiency 98 dB spl (2.83V, 1m) 
 - powerful recommendation> watt 20 
 - polarization voltage to 5 kV (adjustable)[/size][/size]


----------



## HDMan

Just finished building my KGSSHV and for the first time ever I have been able to listen to Stax. First Stax amp and first Stax headphones (007-MK1's), amazing.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Just finished building my KGSSHV and for the first time ever I have been able to listen to Stax. First Stax amp and first Stax headphones (007-MK1's), amazing.


 
   
  Congrats.  I take it the repair shop was able to give you a hand finishing the build?


----------



## jaycalgary

Is it liquid cooled?


----------



## verwandlung

Oh my God! I just received my 009 today. They are fantastic, even with the Stax 323II! -- Is there a break-in period with headphones!? I have the vague impression that after a few days, probably more few weeks, at some point, my 007 just opened up. Am I just crazy? Thanks.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





verwandlung said:


> Oh my God! I just received my 009 today. They are fantastic, even with the Stax 323II! -- Is there a break-in period with headphones!? I have the vague impression that after a few days, probably more few weeks, at some point, my 007 just opened up. Am I just crazy? Thanks.


 
   
   
  Your head opened up.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Congrats.  I take it the repair shop was able to give you a hand finishing the build?


 
   
  Nope, he was unable to diagnose the fault, I did that myself. Apart from the shop soldering the heatsinks, because my soldering gun is not hot enough, I built it from start to finish, including all panel work and hook up.
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Is it liquid cooled?


 
   
  There is one in every crowd. Where is your KGSSHV?
   
  Nuff said.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





hdman said:


> There is one in every crowd. Where is your KGSSHV?
> 
> Nuff said.


 
   
  Yeah, you have absolutely no right to get cocky. You got LUCKY.


----------



## verwandlung

Quote: 





hdman said:


> Your head opened up.


 
   
  Then I am looking forward for it to open up _again_! Thanks.


----------



## cjfrbw

It seems I am getting a fairly severe channel imbalance in my 507 headphones.  The R channel is about 4-6 db down in the right, and can get grainy after a while.  It is not the SD 7 pro mod transformer, the transformer works fine with other Stax headphone,
   
  Should I just order a replacement driver, or is it likely it is the power cord or solder connections?  No unusual trauma that I can recall to cord or headphone.  What order of diagnostics? Where do I get the star screw driver to remove the headband screws?


----------



## jaycalgary

Originally Posted by *HDMan* 


  
  There is one in every crowd. Where is your KGSSHV?
   
  Nuff said.
   
  I am taking my time and getting everything together and a little at a time. Still liking the project though. Congrats on getting it done! Would have guessed you would have been done closer to the 4th of July though.


----------



## HDMan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Yeah, you have absolutely no right to get cocky. You got LUCKY.


 
   
  Let's see if it was luck next time round, you may be right, but then again you may be wrong. I still have 2 off board PCB's and 2 PSU boards, if your right then I guess I will waste my time, but I am confident next time round will work also.
   
  I don't believe luck had anything to do with it, I do believe however that without Kevin's help I would not have been able to finish it off so soon.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





cjfrbw said:


> It seems I am getting a fairly severe channel imbalance in my 507 headphones.  The R channel is about 4-6 db down in the right, and can get grainy after a while.  It is not the SD 7 pro mod transformer, the transformer works fine with other Stax headphone,
> 
> Should I just order a replacement driver, or is it likely it is the power cord or solder connections?  No unusual trauma that I can recall to cord or headphone.  What order of diagnostics? Where do I get the star screw driver to remove the headband screws?


 
   
  Let them play for a while and see if it doesn't get better on its own.


----------



## Tilpo

I wonder.

How hard it is to mod an SRD-7 with normal bias to have pro bias?
I mean as in: Are the parts required for the job rare and/or expensive?

It could save me some serious bucks and time, since it's hard to find a good deal on cheap amps with pro-bias, and the rare SRD-7's with pro bias I found are over priced.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The schematics are around somewhere, its easy to upgrade.
  Or buy spritzers board if he has any left that does the same thing.


----------



## milosz

Has anyone here ever gotten an electric shock from a pair of Stax headphones?  I'm just wondering if it ever happens / is even possible.
   
  How much current is typically available from the bias supply?


----------



## justin w.

there's supposed to be a 5 meg resistor in series with the bias supply before the headphones, which would limit current to 0.1mA


----------



## ardilla

.
  Any thoughts of the differencies between *SRM-006t* and the *SRM-007tII *for the* 007 mkII ?*


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Let them play for a while and see if it doesn't get better on its own.


 

 They do seem to be getting better over about a week or so.  I think I may have gotten moisture somehow on the right earpiece and it takes a long time to dry out.
   
  I will wait and see over a couple of weeks, thank you.


----------



## SteveA

I was shocked by a pair of Stax SR-40 electrets years back.  They had to go back to Japan for repair.  It wasn't painful, just irritating!  I have never been shocked by my SR-407s.


----------



## Tilpo

kevin gilmore said:


> The schematics are around somewhere, its easy to upgrade.
> Or buy spritzers board if he has any left that does the same thing.



Would you be so kind as to point me to the schematics?

I found schematics of the of the SRD-7 MKII and pro, but not the older version. 
Also, where would you be able to buy receptacles/jack for the pro plug?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Has anyone here ever gotten an electric shock from a pair of Stax headphones?  I'm just wondering if it ever happens / is even possible.
> 
> How much current is typically available from the bias supply?


 
   
  I touched my ghetto Stax/HE60 adapter once while playing, which had bare contacts. It was a very, very slight tingling sensation. I held on for a while before I realized the tingling was because of me touching something electrified. No pain or other things you would normally associate with an electric shock. Music kept on playing fine as well by the way.


----------



## madbull

What about the Amperes? Now I feel a little scared


----------



## kevin gilmore

spritzer's board is exactly the srd7 pro schematic. All you need to do is replace
  the old board with the higher voltage circuit.  And you really don't need the
  plugs because the 5 pin plug fits fine into the 6 pin socket. just make sure
  you never plug any regular bias headphones in again. Put a piece of
  plastic in the center hole to remind you not to try that.


----------



## HDMan

I bought a pair of Stax 007-MK1's, they have semi-old pads, but still usable. They apparently had channel imbalance.
   
  I found that any channel imbalance was because of the ear pads, i did some mods to make them seal better, took the pads off, removed the stupid metal ring that stax put in there, what a stupid design that is, that ring piece that fits into the hole always hits my ears, so annoying. Then i just unscrewed the metal bracket a little and tucked the pads in there and tightened it up nicely.
   
  The reason the left ear pad was not sealing properly was because the ring had been bent outwards and was not pulling the left pad hard up against the metal bracket. Also there is a hole in the left earpad at the, this now tucks into the thin gap around the black metal bracket.
   
  I have done numerous tests, i can't find channel imbalance now.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> spritzer's board is exactly the srd7 pro schematic. All you need to do is replace
> the old board with the higher voltage circuit.  And you really don't need the
> plugs because the 5 pin plug fits fine into the 6 pin socket. just make sure
> you never plug any regular bias headphones in again. Put a piece of
> plastic in the center hole to remind you not to try that.


 

 I have installed three of these boards. They do allow for a normal and a pro socket. I just have to remember the left is normal, the right is pro. Now that you mention it, blocking a hole is easier - I get older every day.


----------



## Tilpo

Nevermind. 

I bought a SRD-7 MKII instead for a reasonable price. Definitely more than I anticipated to spend, but maybe I was just stupid for thinking I could get a Stax rig for cheap. 
Looking forward to becoming part of the mafia.


----------



## DolphinG

Well, I have been using STAX ESTA4u for a time.
   
  It's definitely different from other ordinary speakers.
   
  I would say that it's bigger version of Lambda series.
   
  Short at English, to write a good review, but I really like it.
   
  As my room is small, I don't think that they are at good position, so I wanna try it at a larger space.


----------



## Tilpo

Makes me wonder.

If you have a sound source with a very big area - like a pair of electrostatic speakers - don't room acoustics suddenly become much less of an issue, as the amount of direct sound becomes relatively more?


----------



## YOONG 2112

Given a choice of buying a new Sr323s and a second hand Srm T1 amp for about the same price.(the T1 is slightly cheaper) to drive the original SR Omega 1, which is the better option? very much appreciate your feed backs ..


----------



## padam

It is a question of taste, really. But I would probably go for the T1 which is less controlled but warmer (the 323S is more linear but also colder for some).


----------



## n3rdling

T1/Omega is a great pairing.


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
  I would like to get the pdf how to change the voltage of my SRM-717 (100Volt version)
   
  Peter


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Makes me wonder.
> If you have a sound source with a very big area - like a pair of electrostatic speakers - don't room acoustics suddenly become much less of an issue, as the amount of direct sound becomes relatively more?


 
   
  A tall planar speaker is a line source.  Two things make it it's interaction within a room different:

 Sound comes from a line source as a CYLINDRICAL wavefront, whereas a regular speaker is more-or-less a point source which has a SPHERICAL wavefront.  The surface area of a cylindrical wavefront expands by a factor of two for every doubling of the distance from the speaker to the  wavefront ; the surface of a sphere increases by a factor of FOUR for every doubling of distance.  Hence, sound level from a line source like a tall planar speaker drops by 3 db for every doubling of distance (out to a distance that is greater than most listening rooms,) where the sound level from a regular speaker drops by 6 db for every doubling.   This means the NEAR FIELD of the line source extends out farther than a point source. The near field is that space where the direct sound from the speaker greatly predominates over sound reflected from the listening room walls. So, depending on placement, a line source can have a sound that is less influenced by the room.  Note this does not apply to long wavelengths like bass, because often the wavelength of the sound is greater than the distance to the listener- bass with any speaker is subject to room coloration, although usually these are usually not narrow or complicated frequency response peaks or suckouts and careful placement and / or a little room EQ can keep them from dominating the sound. NOTE sound from the planar speaker CAN reflect off the wall BEHIND the listener, and if the speaker is a dipole, it will reflect off the wall behind the speakers in front of the listener, so these walls do have an effect on the sound.
 Sound coming from a line source like a tall planar speaker doesn't have very much vertical dispersion-  especially at high frequencies line sources produce more or less a beam that shoots out at a right angle to their vertical surface, without much energy radiating up or down. This is especially true if the planar speaker is tall enough to be quite near the ceiling. At mid and treble frequencies, there really isn't much sound 'fired' at the ceiling or floor, so reflections from ceiling and floor are quite minimal. (Assuming the planar speaker is perpendicular to the floor and not tilted back.)
   
  So, with a tall planar speaker (or a line array of regular cone drivers)  reflections from side walls and floor / ceiling interact noticeably less than with a regular speaker.
   
  Smaller electrostat panels like these little Stax, or a single pair of Quad ESL-57  etc are going to be somewhere between 'Line Source' and regular speaker behavior. The smaller the speaker the more it will act like a point source.   Full line source properties accrue to the  larger Magneplanars, the CLS type Martin-Logans, big Soundlab speakers, vintage KLH-9's, Acoustats, Final Design, Apogee, etc.  Quads from the ESL-63 on are a point source at higher frequencies and a line source at lower frequencies, because of their construction.


----------



## Tilpo

Thank you for that explanation. 

Very informative.


----------



## Amarphael

X2, Can you share with us the source for further reading?
   
  Any more news on the upcoming 'SR-002' btw?


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


pschelbert said:


> Hi
> I would like to get the pdf how to change the voltage of my SRM-717 (100Volt version)
> 
> Peter


 
  I'm not aware of any PDF with this info but with little effort you can find waht your looking for in this thread, as i've done once. Search for "717+voltage+code" or something in this line.


----------



## Tilpo

amarphael said:


> X2, Can you share with us the source for further reading?
> 
> Any more news on the upcoming 'SR-002' btw?



I second the request on further literature. 

I really feel like reading books lately.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Milosz Whats your appraisal of the T1 and the lambda pro vs the SRM1 /mk2 pro ? wonder if it sounds better than the newer 323s solid state?


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Dave bsc I am thinking of getting a stax amp for to drive the original SR Omega 1,, would you think the 323s  or the srm T1 is better? have you heard them or do you own the 323s?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Hi Dave bsc I am thinking of getting a stax amp for to drive the original SR Omega 1,, would you think the 323s  or the srm T1 is better? have you heard them or do you own the 323s?


 
   
  I'm the wrong guy to ask as I'm not that familiar with the original SR-Omega. From what I understand, it's a much brighter sounding phone than the O2 and may partner well with soft sounding tube amps. I don't know how efficient it is. The O2 is very voltage hungry and would definitely pair better with the 323S.


----------



## Surge74

I just noticed on my brand new SR-009s that the black 'felt' material lining the inside of the headphones (covering the electrostatic grills) is loose.  It is not drawn taught against the drivers, and it has come up in some places.  It's totally loose on both sides... is this normal?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Hi Milosz Whats your appraisal of the T1 and the lambda pro vs the SRM1 /mk2 pro ? wonder if it sounds better than the newer 323s solid state?


 
   
  On my Lambda Pro Signatures, I like the T1 considerably more the SRM-1/mk II. The T1 has a  more 'refined' sound.  The T1  doesn't sound 'tubey' but it does have a more nuanced sound to it, it's not just a slightly smoother treble it's an overall slight improvement in quality.  Hard to describe. The bass is good from either amp.  T1  is a darn nice electrostatic amp, especially considering it's age.
   
  On  my SR-007/ mk II's, I don't like EITHER the T1 or the SRM1/mk II.  Neither one sounds really "right."  The SRM1/mk II  seems to drive the SR007's a little better, more coherently somehow, than the T1.  But I don't like the SR007 on either amp (or on the SRD7-Pro  for that matter) -  I am hopeful that when I finish building my DIY T2 I will finally have something that makes the SR007's sound like $2,000 worth of good.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





surge74 said:


> I just noticed on my brand new SR-009s that the black 'felt' material lining the inside of the headphones (covering the electrostatic grills) is loose.  It is not drawn taught against the drivers, and it has come up in some places.  It's totally loose on both sides... is this normal?


 
   
  It should be flat but not very tightly fitted.  It's fitted to a plastic ring so just use you fingers to seat the the ring properly underneath the earpads.


----------



## Tilpo

I haven't actually tried these yet, but it looks like the pads on my SR-202 are glued badly. (see image).

Should I remove the earpads and glue them back on? Or is it supposed to have a large gap like that?


----------



## Michgelsen

Sometimes just pressing them back on helps. Otherwise you can use double sided tape. Glue might be harder to remove when you want to change the pads someday.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





milosz said:


> A tall planar speaker is a line source.  Two things make it it's interaction within a room different:
> 
> Sound comes from a line source as a CYLINDRICAL wavefront, whereas a regular speaker is more-or-less a point source which has a SPHERICAL wavefront.  The surface area of a cylindrical wavefront expands by a factor of two for every doubling of the distance from the speaker to the  wavefront ; the surface of a sphere increases by a factor of FOUR for every doubling of distance.  Hence, sound level from a line source like a tall planar speaker drops by 3 db for every doubling of distance (out to a distance that is greater than most listening rooms,) where the sound level from a regular speaker drops by 6 db for every doubling.   This means the NEAR FIELD of the line source extends out farther than a point source. The near field is that space where the direct sound from the speaker greatly predominates over sound reflected from the listening room walls. So, depending on placement, a line source can have a sound that is less influenced by the room.  Note this does not apply to long wavelengths like bass, because often the wavelength of the sound is greater than the distance to the listener- bass with any speaker is subject to room coloration, although usually these are usually not narrow or complicated frequency response peaks or suckouts and careful placement and / or a little room EQ can keep them from dominating the sound. NOTE sound from the planar speaker CAN reflect off the wall BEHIND the listener, and if the speaker is a dipole, it will reflect off the wall behind the speakers in front of the listener, so these walls do have an effect on the sound.
> Sound coming from a line source like a tall planar speaker doesn't have very much vertical dispersion-  especially at high frequencies line sources produce more or less a beam that shoots out at a right angle to their vertical surface, without much energy radiating up or down. This is especially true if the planar speaker is tall enough to be quite near the ceiling. At mid and treble frequencies, there really isn't much sound 'fired' at the ceiling or floor, so reflections from ceiling and floor are quite minimal. (Assuming the planar speaker is perpendicular to the floor and not tilted back.)
> ...


 

 Stax claims a cylindrical wave for the F-81 because of the the way the used electronics....
   
  You can find that in their brochure / handbook for the F-81
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Stax claims a cylindrical wave for the F-81 because of the the way the used electronics....
> 
> You can find that in their brochure / handbook for the F-81
> 
> Regards Georg


 
   
   
  Yeah it would be cylindrical but of limited height; at any distance from the speaker it will behave more like a conventional 4π speaker but with very limited vertical treble dispersion.  It's only 31 inches tall.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Sometimes just pressing them back on helps. Otherwise you can use double sided tape. Glue might be harder to remove when you want to change the pads someday.


 
  I replaced the pads on my Lambdas- using genuine Stax replacements of course- and a few week later they started doing the same thing.  I was very careful to clean off all the old adhesive and really clean the earcup face super well with solvents, but they are still peeling off a little right at the edges.  Unavoidable, I think.
   
  As long as they stay on, when you wear them, there won't be a seal problem.  Won't affect the sound.  But if they start to peel off enough that they are actually coming off- well that's another matter.


----------



## schorsch

You're right when you think about large rooms.)
  They're made for really small rooms. Kind of large earspeakers)
  I use them in a very little room at s relatively small distance so in that case it is closer to the cyliondrical wave.
   
  In my living room it's another story....
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## arnaud

Room size has nothing to do on how speaker radiates except at very low frequencies (below the first room resonance for instance). Any planar source radiates plane /cylindrical/spherical waves as distance increases. The smaller the source (relative to acoustic wavelength), the more it will look like a point source (spherical wave spreading). The room adds reflections such that you'll have varying ratio of direct/reflected sounds at the listening position depending on the room size, its treatments, and the speakers/listening position.


----------



## WilCox

I've just listed my SR-007 Mk I and SRM-717 in the For Sale forums.  Still keeping my SR-007 MK II and SRM-007tA which will let me continue my membership in the STAX mafia.


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I've just listed my SR-007 Mk I and SRM-717 in the For Sale forums.  Still keeping my SR-007 MK II and SRM-007tA which will let me continue my membership in the STAX mafia.


 
   
  And they both sold within an hour!


----------



## Radio_head

Congrats Kingstyles


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi.. Where to locate the for sale forum? how much are you asking for your set of stax? thanks


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Hi.. Where to locate the for sale forum? how much are you asking for your set of stax? thanks


 
   
  Lol.


----------



## Tilpo

yoong 2112 said:


> Hi.. Where to locate the for sale forum? how much are you asking for your set of stax? thanks



http://www.head-fi.org/f/41/for-sale-trade-forums

And like he said; they're both sold.
SRM-717
SR-007


----------



## KingStyles

Yeah, I guess I will have to apply for my stax mafia status.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> I've just listed my SR-007 Mk I and SRM-717 in the For Sale forums.  Still keeping my SR-007 MK II and SRM-007tA which will let me continue my membership in the STAX mafia.


 
  No plans on trying an SR009 with your amp?


----------



## mwilson

OK, call me thick, but just what is this Stax mafia?



kingstyles said:


> Yeah, I guess I will have to apply for my stax mafia status.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> OK, call me thick, but just what is this Stax mafia?


 
   
  just a bunch of nerds who think they are bad asses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for listening to expensive headphones


----------



## mwilson

So essentially a grouping of people who think organized crime is something cool, then. I'm happy they haven't personally experienced the less cool but hurtful side thereof. After all, one wouldn't want to coin the Stax al-Qaeda. Too close for comfort I guess. 



sachu said:


> just a bunch of nerds who think they are bad asses   for listening to expensive headphones :rolleyes:


----------



## grawk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzSi7i2ioF0


----------



## KingStyles

Quote: 





> just a bunch of nerds who think they are bad asses
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Not all stax are expensive, but nerds?..... More like a group of organized shills looking to invoke there superiority over the perceived lower class of listening devises.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





grawk said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzSi7i2ioF0


 
   
  http://youtu.be/zPjUsu2-QMQ


----------



## grawk

Quote: 





kingstyles said:


> Not all stax are expensive, but nerds?..... More like a group of organized shills looking to invoke there superiority over the perceived lower class of listening devises.


 
  Do you know what shills are?  Do you think that the "stax mafia" profits by all the work they do to help figure all this stuff out and share it freely?  Really?  Who are they shilling for?  Because it certainly wasn't the stax distributors, or stax japan.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





kingstyles said:


> Not all stax are expensive, but nerds?..... More like a group of organized shills looking to invoke there superiority over the perceived lower class of listening devises.


 
   
  Quote: 





mwilson said:


> So essentially a grouping of people who think organized crime is something cool, then. I'm happy they haven't personally experienced the less cool but hurtful side thereof. After all, one wouldn't want to coin the Stax al-Qaeda. Too close for comfort I guess.


 
   
  Quote: 





sachu said:


> just a bunch of nerds who think they are bad asses
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Are you guys for real? People here share knowledge because they love music, and electronics, not for financial reasons.
  Nuff said.


----------



## KingStyles

just joking, but maybe shill wasnt a great choice of term.
   
  Quote: 





> Are you guys for real? People here share knowledge because they love music, and electronics, not for financial reasons.
> Nuff said.


 
  I have always thought the people of this thread always had great knowledge and passion for this hobby and I appreciate there time and effort for breaking down circuits design and there willingness to help others.


----------



## n3rdling

I see a shill on the previous page 
   
  Congrats KS, enjoy!


----------



## Anaxilus

Holy crap, I need more partially hydrogenated soybean oil!


----------



## Tilpo

kingstyles said:


> I have always thought the people of this thread always had great knowledge and passion for this hobby and I appreciate there time and effort for breaking down circuits design and there willingness to help others.



Yep. One of the major reasons I follow is not because of my interest in Stax stuff (albeit entry level Stax), but because of the wealth of knowledge displayed in this thread.


----------



## DaveBSC




----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> No plans on trying an SR009 with your amp?


 
   
  No.  I'm afraid I would like it too much and I really don't want to spend that kind of money on headphones, though in truth, I've spent many times that amount since arriving at Head-Fi.  Right now my SR-007 Mk II, along with HD 800, ESP 950 and LCD-2 pretty much cover all my needs and let me enjoy the music without concern for the hardware.


----------



## mwilson

I only questioned the choice of the word "mafia" and nothing else - not the people nor their gear 




gilency said:


> Are you guys for real? People here share knowledge because they love music, and electronics, not for financial reasons.
> Nuff said.


----------



## Tilpo

mwilson said:


> I only questioned the choice of the word "mafia" and nothing else - not the people nor their gear



Other threads have to pay the Stax Mafia money, otherwise they will hijack other people's threads by flooding them with snobbishness. The mods have already been bribed, so they won't get out the ban hammer. 

...
At least, that would be my interpretation of a 'Stax Mafia'


----------



## Radio_head

They were going to call themselves "the Stax happiness fun circle caring and kindness" but it wouldn't fit on the custom t-shirts they were planning on ordering.


----------



## milosz

I understand the use of the term "mafia" - some of the Stax guys who are either experts, or self-styled experts, can be quite stand-offish and do sometimes seem to exhibit an attitude of smug superiority towards people they consider to be "noobs." It's not an attractive character trait. Hence the less-than-positive appellation of "mafia."
   
  On the other hand, I understand a desire to have discussions in a forum with peers, and to forego endless reiterations of basic info.
   
  And, it IS true that if you are an aficionado of electrostatic 'phones, you are a member of a small group. There just aren't THAT many sets of Stax 'phones out there, compared to dynamic cans.  
   
  It would be wise to keep in mind, however, that low numbers don't always mean 'exclusivity' in a positive way.  Not many people bought Edsels, either. Not that Stax are in any way similar to the failed Ford sub-brand, but it is good in general to retain humility when possible.  Pride goeth before a fall, as they say.
   
   
  OK, I'm though with the soapbox.  Who gets it next?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> No.  I'm afraid I would like it too much and I really don't want to spend that kind of money on headphones, though in truth, I've spent many times that amount since arriving at Head-Fi.  Right now my SR-007 Mk II, along with HD 800, ESP 950 and LCD-2 pretty much cover all my needs and let me enjoy the music without concern for the hardware.


 
  Good luck. I don't know about your personal situation of course, but if at all possible, I would save up some money and keep up an alert for some uses 009s and then you could sell the 007s to get back some of the expense.
  I did an A/B with the 007s/009s at a show recently (and used to own the 007s, first version), and thought the 007s were really nice, but then heard the 009s and, well, saw the light, kind of an epiphany for me.
  And, IMHO, you already have a perfect amp match (what I have) for them. I just went thru some my Beatles box set with the 009s last night and I can't get the sound out of my head.
   
  But I am not a Stax-freak -- HD800s and Fostex TH900s bring their own magic to the table that is just as musically satisfying, maybe dealing with digital glare in a warm friendly way and having a special luscious texture
  that only dynamics can, along with deep image placement.
   
  But the Stax 009s have some sort of extreme insight and detail that somehow makes you think you are hearing old familiar music for the first time. The insight into the music is amazing, with an incredibly low fatigue factor
  (with no fatigue at all on better-recorded digital sources).


----------



## Solude

I really really shouldn't be asking this but...
   
  Can someone who has a 009 do me the favour of measuring the distance from the bottom ear opening to the other across the top with the headband at maximum.  Hope that makes sense.  The 007 was too small for my head and I wouldn't want to blow $5K on the 009 and it not reach the bottom of my ears


----------



## spritzer

I guess I'll have to step in now being the so called Don of this dark and twisted group of nerds...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  The Stax Mafia name wasn't chosen by us but rather thought of by one rather annoying RSA shill back in the day.  His reasoning behind it was "once your in you can't leave" as most Stax converts will never go back to inferior dynamics.  Pretty much spot on so clearly his only rational thought in a long line of crap ones.... 
   
  The role of the Mafia has always been free flow of information, whether it was how to change a 100V Stax amp to 117/230V, how to change the earpads on some set or rebias an amp after tuberolling.  I do think exposing sub par, faulty or downright dangerous products falls under this mandate though this aspect was mostly thrust upon us starting with the Single Power mess.  Anybody can build a dynamic amp but electrostatics present a whole other level of issues and this has to be discussed.  DIY has also always been a stong part of the mafia and something which Stax have always encouraged.  The circuit behind the Single Power ES amps was indeed a Stax circuit they published for people to build on their own.  After tackling the ultimate SOTA, SOTA solid state and so forth I do think it is time for a Volksamp, a DIY project for everybody that anybody can build.  The goal is simple, make a high performance amp which is cheap but with great performance and make the build as painless as is possible.  We are currently prototyping one design (the BATE or balanced all tube electrostatic) but I want to push for an even simpler design without sacrificing too much performance.


----------



## Tilpo

spritzer said:


> I guess I'll have to step in now being the so called Don of this dark and twisted group of nerds...  :rolleyes:   The Stax Mafia name wasn't chosen by us but rather thought of by one rather annoying RSA shill back in the day.  His reasoning behind it was "once your in you can't leave" as most Stax converts will never go back to inferior dynamics.  Pretty much spot on so clearly his only rational thought in a long line of crap ones....
> 
> The role of the Mafia has always been free flow of information, whether it was how to change a 100V Stax amp to 117/230V, how to change the earpads on some set or rebias an amp after tuberolling.  I do think exposing sub par, faulty or downright dangerous products falls under this mandate though this aspect was mostly thrust upon us starting with the Single Power mess.  Anybody can build a dynamic amp but electrostatics present a whole other level of issues and this has to be discussed.  DIY has also always been a stong part of the mafia and something which Stax have always encouraged.  The circuit behind the Single Power ES amps was indeed a Stax circuit they published for people to build on their own.  After tackling the ultimate SOTA, SOTA solid state and so forth I do think it is time for a Volksamp, a DIY project for everybody that anybody can build.  The goal is simple, make a high performance amp which is cheap but with great performance and make the build as painless as is possible.  We are currently prototyping one design (the BATE or balanced all tube electrostatic) but I want to push for an even simpler design without sacrificing too much performance.



Such an amp would be awesome. Although I wonder, wouldn't it for low cost be better to get Single-ended solid state?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> I really really shouldn't be asking this but...
> 
> Can someone who has a 009 do me the favour of measuring the distance from the bottom ear opening to the other across the top with the headband at maximum.  Hope that makes sense.  The 007 was too small for my head and I wouldn't want to blow $5K on the 009 and it not reach the bottom of my ears


 
   
   
   8" fully extended   
  |----------------------|
  |                             | 2.50" inside top of ear pad
  |                             |
  |                             | 5.25" inside bottom of ear pad


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Sachu you should man up and direct your annoynce directly to guys you indirectly included on your statement, its not the first time I see you do this.


----------



## schorsch

Probably the electrostatic field near our brains makes us members of this mafia)
   
  Regards Georg
   
  Soon I'll get a SR007Mk II))))) Then I can try the Pawel HP-1
   
  I'll report on that or is there a special thread?


----------



## schorsch

Well I'm looking for a card for the SRA-14S
   
  The electrostatic card that makes it possible to use the Stax CP-Y with the Preamp without the external preamp.
   
  I can swap for example a sealed MM-card for the SRA-14S!
   
  Where can I get spare needles or retipping for the CP-Y?
   
  Are there any PS-3 out there where I can plug in one of my phono cards?
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> 8" fully extended
> |----------<--------|
> v                           ^ 2.50" inside top of ear pad
> |                            |
> *                           * 5.25" inside bottom of ear pad


 
  Ear to ear its 18.5"?  And to be clear, the inside, not the outside size.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> Ear to ear its 18.5"?  And to be clear, the inside, not the outside size.


 
  Yes, that's how I did the measurement. However, to answer the way you've phrased it now, I would say closer to 16.5" - 17.0" because the pads themselves occupy about 1" on both insides due to the padding. I don't think the band could possible sit on anyone's head the full 8" across either, so you need to account for that as well. I'd be guessing at about 16" in total.
   
  |----|
   U   U
   
  OK, has to be more than 16", I just measured from the bottom of my ear across my head to the bottom of the other ear and it's 16". I have the band all the way down on both sides. So maybe a full 18.5 (I'm guessing though)


----------



## Solude

Ugh that's cutting it close, I measure ear to ear... 17" but that's with no gap at all.  If I measure the LCD-2 while off its just over 19".


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> His reasoning behind it was "once your in you can't leave" as most Stax converts will never go back to inferior dynamics.


 
   
  Maybe we should call this the Hotel California thread:
   
_"You can check-out any time you like,_

_But you can never leave!"_
   
_




_


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> Ugh that's cutting it close, I measure ear to ear... 17" but that's with no gap at all.  If I measure the LCD-2 while off its just over 19".


 
  I don't think 17" would be cutting it too close at all.


----------



## Solude

I appreciate you checking, but my wife would like you to stop


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> I appreciate you checking, but my wife would like you to stop


 
  Price Japan ships to Canada no problem. Good rate on Custom taxes too (all in should be about 4.5k).


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:  





> After tackling the ultimate SOTA, SOTA solid state and so forth I do think it is time for a Volksamp, a DIY project for everybody that anybody can build.  The goal is simple, make a high performance amp which is cheap but with great performance and make the build as painless as is possible.  We are currently prototyping one design (the BATE or balanced all tube electrostatic) but I want to push for an even simpler design without sacrificing too much performance.


 
  Wow, great news, I'm sure that would be a neat amp. The begging question is of course, will it be better than something like a hybrid Extata AND cheaper to build? Oh and will it be a budget alternative to 323S for the O2?


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> Price Japan ships to Canada no problem. Good rate on Custom taxes too (all in should be about 4.5k).


 
   
  Yep that's where I got my O2 MkI way back when.  Are the pads deep enough to not touch the ear?  On my O2, after a year the metal bars would touch my ear and need to be replaced.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> Yep that's where I got my O2 MkI way back when.  Are the pads deep enough to not touch the ear?  On my O2, after a year the metal bars would touch my ear and need to be replaced.


 
  For me they are, it's never been an issue. I can't say how they would be for you though...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Such an amp would be awesome. Although I wonder, wouldn't it for low cost be better to get Single-ended solid state?


 
  A tube amp for electrostatic headphones is easier to build than solid state, especially for less experienced builders. Remember, electrostatic headphones operate on high voltages- Stax bias is 580 volts. Transistors, as a rule, do not like high voltages. Building transistor circuits for high voltages requires parts that are often hard to get, and techniques that most people used to solid state gear are not familiar with.  For example, if you are mounting a transistor operating at ~1,000 volts on a heat sink, the normal insulator used with TO220 transistors is not effective- it won't insulate the 1,000 volt transistor from the grounded heat sink, and the thing will just short out.  The insulator will break down.  Have to use special insulators.  And so on.
   
  Tubes, however, NORMALLY work at pretty high voltages, and all the normal tube parts and techniques are well suited to these higher voltages.  Nothing other than standard tube electronics building methods is needed. (And that means keep one hand in your pocket whenever the chassis is open!)
   
  Also, if there are any mistakes in building a high voltage solid state project, the result will be blown out transistors- often MANY blown out transistors!-   and that will cost $$$. Every builder makes mistakes from time to time. With a tube circuit, even if there is some kind of wiring screw-up, it's much less likely to blow out expensive parts. You may get some smoke, but the tubes themselves will probably live to tell the tale and all you'll be buying are some replacement resistors or maybe a diode or two.
   
  And generally speaking a tube amp for electrostatic headphones is simpler - fewer parts- than a quality solid-state design.  So really it should be easier to build a very good tube electrostatic amp, and probably cheaper too, than a solid state one.  Besides, vacuum tubes are just _pretty._
   
  And balanced-vs-single ended, well, that's a design decision.  Balanced should be better sounding, and if making it balanced doesn't add TOO much  expense and complication, then it seems reasonable to me to go with balanced.


----------



## Tilpo

Interesting.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished design, and if the BOM is not too high I might just build it one day.
To be honest though, I'm already struggling with a normal SS build (the Beta22), so that would mean that building a SS electrostatic amp is completely out of the question for now.


----------



## spritzer

A Stax amp will always have to be balanced at the output regardless of the input so it makes sense to have a balanced input as well.  It's almost always cheaper to design an amp with a "free" balanced input (i.e. enough open loop gain to do it's own phase splitting) instead of using a singled ended input and feed that into a phase splitter.  Less parts and if one only wants to use RCA then it's a simple matter of grounding the - input.  This naturally halves the ultimate voltage swing (as you are only feeding it half the input voltage of a balanced signal, 2.1Vrms vs. 4.2Vrms) but that's the only negative effect.  
   
  The real problem with solid state is that once the parts are out of production, they are gone forever or go for silly prices.  This is especially true for high voltage parts and these are disappearing quickly.  With tubes we don't have this problem, it's a niche market so manufacturers are happy to sell less units and there is a large infrastructure out there to sell matched tubes to hobbyists.  We will also only use current production tubes and only triodes at that.  Tubes are also very forgiving to mistakes and many will take a lot of abuse before giving up the ghost.  With sand this isn't the case and they have a ca. 20% safety margin and after that they release the magic smoke. 
   
  One problem with a simple tube amp is optimizing performance without spending too much.  While a two stage amp might work it really has to have three stages (i.e. 3 triodes per phase so six dual triodes per amp) and there is really no way of doing this DC coupled.  That means at least one capacitor in the signal path but I can live with that and perhaps spend more money optimizing the operating point for the tubes to drag it into the 21st century. 
   
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Wow, great news, I'm sure that would be a neat amp. The begging question is of course, will it be better than something like a hybrid Extata AND cheaper to build? Oh and will it be a budget alternative to 323S for the O2?


 
   
  I would never release anything as bad as the Exstata so yeah, it will be better and the price will be similar.  With an amp like this we have to use custom made transformers but that shouldn't add to the cost at all and it beats those crappy Hammond 270 cores.  With both driver and output tubes in use we can't have them share the same filament tap and I can't find any off the shelf transformer which fits that general description.


----------



## schorsch

Sounds really nice)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## di_andrei

Is it possible to change the metal piece that holds the 007 earpads in? It feels like mine have lost some tension and the earcups are too close to the ear for comfort.
   
  Oh, and sign me up for one of those "STAX mafia" t-shirts.


----------



## Magick Man

Someone say Stax Mafia t-shirt?




I am sooo getting one of these made. :veryevil:


----------



## mwilson

I can definitely see the "once in never out" part. If I could only have one setup, I would be electrostatic. There's so much more to the music as heard through a good Stax setup that it's not even funny.
   
  And you're right about the flow of information. I've learned quite a bit from this neverending thread.
   
  I'm very interested in that amp you mention, can't wait to get more details (and ultimately build one).
   
  Cheers!
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I guess I'll have to step in now being the so called Don of this dark and twisted group of nerds...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

The design process is well underway but we keep coming up to the same problem, cost.  We really only care about performance and cost isn't even considered.  I for one never build using a BOM and buy everything in bulk so if I need one resistor I buy 100.  Add to this a good design dialog and it's hard to not go bonkers.  As it stands now the amp is a version of the Stax SRX (same circuit as Single Power used in the ES amps but done correctly) with a CCS for the output stage, DC filament supplies (makes it much easier to wire up power indication LED's etc and also no hum) and a new PSU which is a simplified version of the KGSSHV supply. 
   
  Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> Is it possible to change the metal piece that holds the 007 earpads in? It feels like mine have lost some tension and the earcups are too close to the ear for comfort.
> 
> Oh, and sign me up for one of those "STAX mafia" t-shirts.


 
   
  The metal backing plate or the spring?  Both are essential for the phones to function properly so I would rather look at replacing the earpads.  The foam breaks down far too quickly and the pads become too soft which might be your issue.  I wouldn't bother with the brown Mk1 earpads and get mk2 earpads instead.  I'll certainly never go back to the Mk1 pads despite having a box full of them...


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The metal backing plate or the spring?  Both are essential for the phones to function properly so I would rather look at replacing the earpads.  The foam breaks down far too quickly and the pads become too soft which might be your issue.  I wouldn't bother with the brown Mk1 earpads and get mk2 earpads instead.  I'll certainly never go back to the Mk1 pads despite having a box full of them...


 
   
  I'm talking about the spring. Excuse my ignorance, so do new earpads come with new springs? I assumed you would have to re-use the springs.


----------



## Michgelsen

What makes the mk2 pads better on mk1 headphones, besides wearing comfort? Does the sound change?
  I believe this was discussed some time ago but couldn't find anything by searching.


----------



## thinker

-
  -


----------



## spritzer

The material and the design for the Mk2 earpads is different so that alters the sound a bit. 
   
  Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> I'm talking about the spring. Excuse my ignorance, so do new earpads come with new springs? I assumed you would have to re-use the springs.


 
   
  The springs are a part of the headphone so they have to be reused.


----------



## Figo

Hi all:
   
  Lurking stax user here with a curiosity to share: Stax Quattro CDP
   
  Picked this up recently as a total impulse buy... anyone have any info?
   
  It somehow works perfectly (no read errors/skipping on original lens!).  Sounds surprisingly good through O2 Mk1 and Headamp KGSS - very smooth and much less glare than I expected from a CDP this old.  I think a lot of people who like non-os sound would probably like this unit (loose at the frequency extremes, sacrificed detail for nice tone).  I also happen to have a replacement lens just in case, luckily, but feel no need to install it until it stops reading discs.
   
  It oddly has two power cords - one captive for the transport and an IEC for the DAC (lower portion).  Quite funny.
   
  Good build quality, smooth black painted metal with minimal plastic.
   
  Sad thing is I don't have CDs with me anymore... had to grab some from storage, ha.
   
  Picture: (sorry for quality)
   
  EDIT: if anyone is interested I can take some better pics  w/ SLR camera


----------



## Tilpo

Never knew Stax made CD players.


----------



## mwilson

A dynamic headphone output on a Stax product? Heresy.


----------



## spritzer

Stax did make dynamic headphones for a while.... 
   
  The reason why there are two power cords and the odd size of the CDP is because these are two components cobbled together.  Some off the shelf Japanese player with Stax DAC and power supply.


----------



## mwilson

Was that a long time ago? I don't seem to remember any dynamics from Stax.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Stax did make dynamic headphones for a while....


----------



## Anaxilus

Strikes me as some sort of TEAC.


----------



## singh

How is the sound of the original Stax Omega ? ( not stax sr007 but the one launched in 90s )


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mwilson said:


> Was that a long time ago? I don't seem to remember any dynamics from Stax.


 
   
  Mid 80's.  They were pretty horrible in every way...


----------



## mwilson

spritzer said:


> Mid 80's.  They were pretty horrible in every way...




Oh, you mean just like the music from that period? *ducks*


----------



## Anaxilus

*throws*


----------



## mwilson

Actuall I grew up with 80s music, call it good or bad. That, and the obligatory mullet, skinny tie and shiny grey jacket. Oh, the humanity!


----------



## Anaxilus

*cheers!*


----------



## schorsch

Stax CDP,
   
  I personally listen very often to this combination:
   
  STAX QUATTRO II with CA-Y -> ED-1 Signature -> SRM-T1 -> Stax Lambda Signature / Sigma
   
  I find this very satisfying )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## nick n

Just a quick question.
  The SR-001mk2's came with a cable, just wondering if this is the stock one, ( if so what are it's build characteristics ) or is it some aftermarket thing.
  Really enjoying this setup with the stock amp. I was surprised at the bass levels, and equally surprised the fit issue wasn't as bad as people are saying. There's definitely a sweet spot with the fit . Looking toward the Audiocats mod at some point.
   
  Here's the cable.


----------



## spritzer

The Stax cable is much shorter, black and with 90°connectors so it's some aftermarket job.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





singh said:


> How is the sound of the original Stax Omega ? ( not stax sr007 but the one launched in 90s )


 
  bump .
   
  I was looking to buy stax r007 but came across a second hand pair of stax omega ( the original ) the price is about the same ( for a good condition, used piece )  so , i cant buy both.
   
  i was wondering which should i invest on .  I come from HE 6 and W5000 .
   
  Please help. I need to make a decision quick.


----------



## scud80

can anybody identify these?  they're pro bias, and i just picked them up from a craigslist ad along with an srd-p (the no battery/pro bias only version) and srm1mk2.  construction seems a little poor, but they work fine and sound pretty decent so far.  i see no markings on them whatsoever aside from "made in japan".


----------



## Tilpo

They look like a pair of SR-30's to me.


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The Stax cable is much shorter, black and with 90°connectors so it's some aftermarket job.


 

 Thanks very much. I did /do find using that particular cable a chore when walking about. Have to message the guy I got them from to see what it is.


----------



## gilency

singh said:


> bump .
> 
> I was looking to buy stax r007 but came across a second hand pair of stax omega ( the original ) the price is about the same ( for a good condition, used piece )  so , i cant buy both.
> 
> ...



Spritzer should know, but I sort of remember somebody mentioning the original Omega is hard to repair due to lack of parts if it breaks down.


----------



## Tilpo

I finally received my SRD-7 MKII, now I can finally listen to my SR-202.

Sounding good so far, although I'm not sure whether I like them more than my HD 650's. For now I have to get used to the difference in sound signature between the SR-202 and my HD 650. The SR-202 has a lot more treble and less thump in the bass. First hour or so I even found them fatiguing, although that seems to be fading by now. Maybe it's also partly due to the headphones charging up? I found the sound changed quite a bit, but I might be mistaken.


I also stumbled on a problem. I have no idea whether I have the polarity of the wiring correct or not, since the color coding is confusing me. 
There is a red, pink, grey and white wire. For now I assumed red = R+, pink = R-, white = L- and grey is L+. Switching polarity on one channel seems to have an effect but I'm not sure which is correct, partly because of my paranoia for constantly thinking it's the wrong way around. 
I made a picture to more clearly show what I mean: (SRD-7 is connected to 'speaker A'/top one)


Edit: I'm pretty sure I have it correctly now (what's shown in the picture is wrong), but I would still like some extra conformation to have my mind at ease.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Spritzer should know, but I sort of remember somebody mentioning the original Omega is hard to repair due to lack of parts if it breaks down.


 
   
  Stax still have some replacement parts but don't look the same and if the drivers have issues then there is no way Stax will try to fix them.  They will just replace them with SR-007 Mk2 drivers.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Stax still have some replacement parts but don't look the same and if the drivers have issues then there is no way Stax will try to fix them.  They will just replace them with SR-007 Mk2 drivers.


 
   
  That's a huge risk.  I'm sure their SQ (not to mention monetary value) plummets if they have 007mk2 drivers in 'em.


----------



## gilency

Might as well get the 009's


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> I finally received my SRD-7 MKII, now I can finally listen to my SR-202.
> Sounding good so far, although I'm not sure whether I like them more than my HD 650's. For now I have to get used to the difference in sound signature between the SR-202 and my HD 650. The SR-202 has a lot more treble and less thump in the bass. First hour or so I even found them fatiguing, although that seems to be fading by now. Maybe it's also partly due to the headphones charging up? I found the sound changed quite a bit, but I might be mistaken.
> I also stumbled on a problem. I have no idea whether I have the polarity of the wiring correct or not, since the color coding is confusing me.
> There is a red, pink, grey and white wire. For now I assumed red = R+, pink = R-, white = L- and grey is L+. Switching polarity on one channel seems to have an effect but I'm not sure which is correct, partly because of my paranoia for constantly thinking it's the wrong way around.
> ...


 
  This makes life a little difficult, as the original cable had Red (Right +), Green (Right -), White (Left +) and Blue (Left -) if I remember correctly. It looks like these ones have been recabled.


----------



## gilency

If you follow the labels on the back of your unit, you can't get it wrong.


----------



## KingStyles

I received my o2/717 and I am really enjoying them now that I get to hear them in my own system in ideal conditions. I am glad I decided to dabble in stax.
   
  On another note, has anybody heard anything on the EC electra recently?


----------



## Tilpo

gilency said:


> If you follow the labels on the back of your unit, you can't get it wrong.



It's about the input cables, not the output. 

Anyway, I'm pretty sure I have it correctly now. 



I'm loving the SR-202's so far. Don't know whether I like them more than my HD650 yet, but in the very least they are on the same level.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Stax still have some replacement parts but don't look the same and if the drivers have issues then there is no way Stax will try to fix them.  They will just replace them with SR-007 Mk2 drivers.


 
  that is an issue but, stax is good at quality control, i agree its quite an old set , but still , is it that big of an issue ?
   
  i cant afford the sr-009, can oly spend on omega or omega2, omega 2 are said to be dark and i tend to prefer neutral sound , thats why was looking at the original omega .
  any comments on the sound.


----------



## Michgelsen

I love them too. I've given them much head time lately and love how balanced they sound across the whole frequency spectrum. Their airiness and increased treble is a fun change from the SR-007. It makes me wonder how the SR-507 compares...
   
  Quote: 





tilpo said:


> I'm loving the SR-202's so far. Don't know whether I like them more than my HD650 yet, but in the very least they are on the same level.


 
   
   
   
  Are you set on an Omega or SR-007, or is the SR-507 still a possibility too?
   
  Quote: 





singh said:


> i cant afford the sr-009, can oly spend on omega or omega2, omega 2 are said to be dark and i tend to prefer neutral sound , thats why was looking at the original omega .
> any comments on the sound.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





singh said:


> that is an issue but, stax is good at quality control, i agree its quite an old set , but still , is it that big of an issue ?
> 
> i cant afford the sr-009, can oly spend on omega or omega2, omega 2 are said to be dark and i tend to prefer neutral sound , thats why was looking at the original omega .
> any comments on the sound.


 
   
  I do think all SR-Omegas will fail at some point, no way around it.  They may look solid from the outside but the build quality is a mess with a number of "fixes" added as production progressed but none solved the main issue.  The drivers simply split apart as the internal structure deteriorates.  Slapping some 007 drivers in there solves that issue as they are self contained and made from much better materials so they will last at least another 15-20 years.  I'm trying to restore drivers from one of the first 007's ever made and they look perfect and would still work perfectly if some idiot hadn't taken a vacuum to them...


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I do think all SR-Omegas will fail at some point, no way around it.  They may look solid from the outside but the build quality is a mess with a number of "fixes" added as production progressed but none solved the main issue.  The drivers simply split apart as the internal structure deteriorates.  Slapping some 007 drivers in there solves that issue as they are self contained and made from much better materials so they will last at least another 15-20 years.  I'm trying to restore drivers from one of the first 007's ever made and they look perfect and would still work perfectly if some idiot hadn't taken a vacuum to them...


 

 What's the problem?  Is the diaphragm collapsing to one stator?
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## spritzer

The drivers are fine but it's the frame around them which is the problem.  Like the current Lambdas there is no glue used to secure the drivers but rather they are stacked inside the resin frame which hides inside the metal can.  This doesn't age well so the screws loose grip and the frame starts to break apart.  The build quality was pretty flimsy to begin with so there is too much tolerance and the drivers aren't in alignment any more.


----------



## milosz

Question for all the knowledgeable folks here-
   
  I'm interested in getting an R/2R ladder type DAC (for use with Stax among other things-) - looking for balanced outputs. Also looking for great sound, don't want to spend more than $1000~$2000. Have looked at some Audio-Gd stuff, I am a fan of their gear, so that was a natural choice for me.  But, I'm not that familiar with the landscape of non delta-sigma DACs, anyone here got some suggestions for me to check out?


----------



## n3rdling

Parasound, sonic frontiers, assemblage


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Question for all the knowledgeable folks here-
> 
> I'm interested in getting an R/2R ladder type DAC (for use with Stax among other things-) - looking for balanced outputs. Also looking for great sound, don't want to spend more than $1000~$2000. Have looked at some Audio-Gd stuff, I am a fan of their gear, so that was a natural choice for me.  But, I'm not that familiar with the landscape of non delta-sigma DACs, anyone here got some suggestions for me to check out?


 
   
  I've seen the occasional Theta Gen V or Va or Levinson 36 around in your price range. The better Sonic Frontiers models usually list for over $2K. Check Parts Connexion though, they have a lot of SF and Assemblage stock and they can make sure it's all still in good shape which is important with a tube DAC.
   
  The Ultra Analog or PCM63 based 20-bit DACs are nice, but they are hamstrung by their limited digital receivers, and are more sensitive to input jitter than more modern stuff.


----------



## Rizlaw

I'm an original owner of Lambda Pro's/ SRM1-Mk.II Professional amp since the early 1980's. They are in excellent condition except for the flimsy foam in each earspeaker which has long deteriorated. After I got to page 61 of this thread (not sure my old eyes can make it to page 1200+) I decided to ask the following quesitons:
   
  1. My earpads (except for the previously mentioned deteriorated foam) are in superb condition. Will using the earspeakers, without the foam, cause any serious issues? A photo of my left channel earpad to show present condition (minus the thin grey foam):

   
  2. I see that Audiocubes2 sells replacement earpads for about $46.00 US a pair, but there is no picture. http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/500
  Does anyone know if the replacement pads have the same poor foam, or has there been an improvement.  I'm wondering if I can fabricate something, if it's really necessary, and save the money since the rest of the earpad is just fine.
   
  3. I also saw that Audiocubes2 sells a cover for Stax earspeakers for $26.00. Dimensions are not provided on the website. http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/134
  Does anyone know if this cover is large enough to cover the Woo Dual Headphone stand which holds both my Stax & LCD-2 phones?
   
  4. Is there any point to keeping the Lambda Pro's energized all the time by leaving the SRM-1 Mk.II on all the time?
   
  Thanks for any helpful info.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





rizlaw said:


> 3. I also saw that Audiocubes2 sells a cover for Stax earspeakers for $26.00. Dimensions are not provided on the website. http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/134
> Does anyone know if this cover is large enough to cover the Woo Dual Headphone stand which holds both my Stax & LCD-2 phones?


 
   
  I'm not sure, if it did work it would probably have to be stretched pretty tightly over the headphones. It was designed to cover one, not two.


----------



## Hoax

Hiya
   
  I got a price list with Stax headphones and a list of combo's (headphone + amp) . The only combo's missing here on my list is an AMP combo for the SR 507 and SR 009.. Whichs amps are needed for these?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





rizlaw said:


> I'm an original owner of Lambda Pro's/ SRM1-Mk.II Professional amp since the early 1980's. They are in excellent condition except for the flimsy foam in each earspeaker which has long deteriorated. After I got to page 61 of this thread (not sure my old eyes can make it to page 1200+) I decided to ask the following quesitons:
> 
> 1. My earpads (except for the previously mentioned deteriorated foam) are in superb condition. Will using the earspeakers, without the foam, cause any serious issues?


 
  Nope.  The foam is designed to keep some dust out, is all.  And since the foam turns into POWDER itself, over time, I question how effective it is.
   
  Stax are using cloth now in place of foam.
   
  No sonic impact from having foam or cloth or having neither, as far I know.


----------



## Rizlaw

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Nope.  The foam is designed to keep some dust out, is all.  And since the foam turns into POWDER itself, over time, I question how effective it is.
> 
> Stax are using cloth now in place of foam.
> 
> No sonic impact from having foam or cloth or having neither, as far I know.


 
   
  Thanks Milosz. Seems I can rest easy and save some money for now.
   
  Out of curisoity, do you know if the Audiocubes2 website is selling genuine STAX replacement Lambda Pro earpads using the cloth cover you mentioned? They don't provide too much info on this replacement part.
   
  Also thanks to DaveBSC.


----------



## Solude

I really shouldn't be heading down this road again but...
   
  With no commercially available KGSS... Are the current Stax amps bought from Japan or EU easily converted to 120V?  And secondly is it even worth going that way over the Woo GES?  Any other options in the sub $2000 range?


----------



## n3rdling

You can get a used 717 or 727 for less than 2k.  I'm not sure how hard it is to change voltage on the 727 but it was pretty trivial on my old 717.


----------



## Solude

Can get a new one too   Who was the other goto shop in Japan for Stax imports?  PriceJapan and?


----------



## spritzer

Any Stax amp wired for 230V is very easy to change to 117V but the 100V units can be a real headache.  Stax are deliberately making it difficult but with some precision soldering it can be done.


----------



## Solude

EU sourced amp would be changes how exactly?  And again, even worth it compared to KGTT?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> Can get a new one too   Who was the other goto shop in Japan for Stax imports?  PriceJapan and?


 
  Yep, if you got the SR-009 and 727 from PJ, it works out to about 1600 CAD for the 727A.


----------



## Michgelsen

All Stax amps are compatible with any of their headphones (not counting very old types). The Stax suggested combo's just mean a slightly lowered total price, but there's no reason why a SR-307 would be better with an SRM-323s than a SR-407 would for example. In case you would like a different combo than the suggested ones, a dealer should be able to give a slight discount too I think, if you buy via a dealer.
  So, all amps should be fine, although the SRM-007t(II) is regarded around here as only being a very small step up from the SRM-006t(s) and thus not worth the upgrade.
  The SRM-323s has a very good 'bang for the buck' reputation. The SRM-727 is well regarded too (after a small mod).
  Aftermarket amps exist as well, but are more expensive and aimed at those who seek ultimate performance, in a cost-no-object kind of way. Then there's the possibility of DIY.
   
  Quote: 





hoax said:


> Hiya
> 
> I got a price list with Stax headphones and a list of combo's (headphone + amp) . The only combo's missing here on my list is an AMP combo for the SR 507 and SR 009.. Whichs amps are needed for these?


----------



## Solude

The other question I should ask is... outside of the 009 are any of the other Stax cans really up to sniping top tier dynamics?  When I sold my O2MkI for an LCD-2 after living with the two for a while I didn't feel like I lost anything.  To be fair it was a very different rig than I have now so there is that to consider.  But ignoring the 009, can the "lower" Stax models dethrone the dynamics competition?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





solude said:


> The other question I should ask is... outside of the 009 are any of the other Stax cans really up to sniping top tier dynamics?  When I sold my O2MkI for an LCD-2 after living with the two for a while I didn't feel like I lost anything.  To be fair it was a very different rig than I have now so there is that to consider.  But ignoring the 009, can the "lower" Stax models dethrone the dynamics competition?


 
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/613187/stax-sr-007-omega-ii-mk1-vs-mk2-vs-sr-009-making-the-jump-into-high-end#post_8444477


----------



## Solude

Thanks for that.  I owned the O2 Mk1, I forget what they butchered in the Mk2 and then got even more foobar in the Mk 2.5?


----------



## Solude

Should add the O2 headband was torture for me since I was at max size so you can imagine the pull of the top of my head   More than once I considered punching holes in the elastic so it would have some give.  Thought it might affect resale though


----------



## Magick Man

solude said:


> The other question I should ask is... outside of the 009 are any of the other Stax cans really up to sniping top tier dynamics?  When I sold my O2MkI for an LCD-2 after living with the two for a while I didn't feel like I lost anything.  To be fair it was a very different rig than I have now so there is that to consider.  But ignoring the 009, can the "lower" Stax models dethrone the dynamics competition?




That signifies your taste, I suppose. I'd never dump my 007 Mk1s for LCD-2s or 3s, or anything else, for that matter. I even prefer them to the 009s, which is a fairly common position around here.


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





solude said:


> Thanks for that.  I owned the O2 Mk1, I forget what they butchered in the Mk2 and then got even more foobar in the Mk 2.5?


 

 i thought that mk 2.5 is supposed to be improvement from mk 2 instead of the other way around ?


----------



## Solude

Could be but the pair Tyll measured was junk.  Like shouldn't be in the room with a Senn 600 kind of bad


----------



## forbigger

you based your comment on measurement from tyll or you actually compared it ?


----------



## Solude

Measurements.  From those, assuming it wasn't off, you'd be much better off getting the 507.  The Mk1 measures like a champ though.


----------



## spritzer

The Mk2 was worse but could be fixed.  The Mk2.5 is far worse and can't be fixed. 
   
  Any headband related issues should be tackled by bending the two arcs.  I have a very large head and my 007's are all as comfortable as the 009 but it took some trial and error to get it right.  This is also crucial for them to sound right. 
   
  Quote: 





solude said:


> EU sourced amp would be changes how exactly?  And again, even worth it compared to KGTT?


 
   
  Stax changes the setup every few years but it's either moving some wires between numbered sections or moving metal bars in numbered spots.  All you are doing is moving the primaries from series to parallel.


----------



## Solude

Thanks spritzer.  No one cares to give an impression on the KGTT?  I know Kevin much preferred the KGSS according to the write up on HW but does that also follow that Stax 727 also better?


----------



## madbull

How can I tell a mk2 from a mk2.5? Serial #? sorry for such a noob question...


----------



## Solude

Yes.  SZ-1, SZ-2, SZ-3 for Mk1, Mk2, Mk2.5.


----------



## El_Doug

Just lookup any review of the Woo GES
   
  Quote: 





solude said:


> Thanks spritzer.  No one cares to give an impression on the KGTT?  I know Kevin much preferred the KGSS according to the write up on HW but does that also follow that Stax 727 also better?


----------



## Solude

Someone will have to write one first


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





solude said:


> Yes.  SZ-1, SZ-2, SZ-3 for Mk1, Mk2, Mk2.5.


 
  There's also Mk1s without letters just numbers.


----------



## madbull

So i'm buying a brand new mk2 and I'm getting the worst of all O2 models... Now you really cheered me up 

And I've already paid Jack


----------



## Elysian

People read way too much into the popular sentiment on these forums.  There are plenty of threads where many people say they like the MK2 more than the MK1, or that they have different flavors and one isn't better than the other.
   
  In addition, there's a Spritzer mod to make the MK2 sound very close to the MK1.  Unless, by new unit, you're getting the MK2 and MK2.5 mixed up.
   
  Listen to what your ears tell you, and try not to get overly influenced by what other people say.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





solude said:


> Thanks spritzer.  No one cares to give an impression on the KGTT?  I know Kevin much preferred the KGSS according to the write up on HW but does that also follow that Stax 727 also better?


 
   
  It's been a while since I tried a TT in that guise but I have a crossbreed of a TT and the Aristaeus sitting on my rack.  It's a lovely amp but very different character to the KGSS, much warmer and typical "tube sound" people thinks is due to the tubes (but it isn't).


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





elysian said:


> People read way too much into the popular sentiment on these forums.  There are plenty of threads where many people say they like the MK2 more than the MK1, or that they have different flavors and one isn't better than the other.
> 
> In addition, there's a Spritzer mod to make the MK2 sound very close to the MK1.  Unless, by new unit, you're getting the MK2 and MK2.5 mixed up.
> 
> Listen to what your ears tell you, and try not to get overly influenced by what other people say.


 
   
  I'll still take a Mk2 or Mk2.5 (actually I did) over many other headphones if that puts things in perspective.
   
  I tried the bass port mod on the Mk2.5 to better control the bass, but that ended up unmasking the upper mids, making it sound too forward. What I did in the end was the spring mod (pushed it all the way down - don't know if this did anything), and a partial (85%) obstruction of the ports. This seemed to control the mid-bass better while still allowing a slight mid-bass bump to balance the mk2.5's mids. I think the Mk2.5 could have a little bit of the 009's DNA in them.
   
  The Mk2.5s are still measurably more laid-back than the 009s.


----------



## madbull

Of course one's gotta listen for oneself, but why there are reviews then? I'm taling of reference, nothing more. And we're not talking about some random dude' s opinion about the mk versions.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





purrin said:


> I'll still take a Mk2 or Mk2.5 (actually I did) over many other headphones if that puts things in perspective.
> 
> I tried the bass port mod on the Mk2.5 to better control the bass, but that ended up unmasking the upper mids, making it sound too forward. What I did in the end was the spring mod (pushed it all the way down - don't know if this did anything), and a partial (85%) obstruction of the ports. This seemed to control the mid-bass better while still allowing a slight mid-bass bump to balance the mk2.5's mids. I think the Mk2.5 could have a little bit of the 009's DNA in them.
> 
> The Mk2.5s are still measurably more laid-back than the 009s.


 
   
  What are your thoughts on the Mk2.5 vs 1 and 2?  I haven't run across a Mk2.5 in the wild yet, but would be curious to hear how Stax tried to improve the sound.
   
  A few people mentioned to me that ultra-detailed headphones like the SR009 are, by nature of being really detailed, bright.  Are there any other headphones with really good detail or resolution which are more on the laidback side?  The only one I've encountered is the SR007, but I haven't heard the ultra high-end Sonys yet.  The LCD-3 and HE-6 are both a definite step down in detail from the SR007 and SR009.  I liked the HE-6 but wouldn't use it for critical listening.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





elysian said:


> The LCD-3 and HE-6 are both a definite step down in detail from the SR007 and SR009.


 
   
  We see this a lot but back in 2010, on my rig, I found the LCD-2 Rev1 as good detail wise and a good deal less grainy than the O2 Mk1 that I'd had with the KGSS for 4 years.  The Rev2 is better still, my particular LCD-3 was meh but is on its way back from Audeze now, but my others accounts better than a Rev2 so... how is it that the O2 Mk1 is still in the conversation?  Or could it simply be that my Stello DA220 at the time was grainy and that the ortho tech is just naturally grain free?


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





solude said:


> We see this a lot but back in 2010, on my rig, I found the LCD-2 Rev1 as good detail wise and a good deal less grainy than the O2 Mk1 that I'd had with the KGSS for 4 years.  The Rev2 is better still, my particular LCD-3 was meh but is on its way back from Audeze now, but my others accounts better than a Rev2 so... how is it that the O2 Mk1 is still in the conversation?  Or could it simply be that my Stello DA220 at the time was grainy and that the ortho tech is just naturally grain free?


 
   
  I think there was just too much variation with the LCD-2's back in the day.
   
  The LCD-2 r1 I had was grainy as hell, the driver ringing pissed me off to no end. Once I heard the driver ringing, I couldn't unhear it so I just got rid of the b22/lcd-2 rig altogether.


----------



## Solude

For those interested in Mk1 v Mk2.5... Mk1 left, Mk2.5 right


----------



## J-Pak

Solude have you heard the HE-500? You might like them. No point in going back to the O2 Mk1 if you've owned them once with the KGSS. I owned an LCD-2 r1 as well and sold it because it didn't have the treble presence, detail and image depth of the O2 mk1. 
   
  I think InnerFidelity's graphs are quite accurate to what I heard in my Mk1 and Mk2.5. The differences are subtle in loud meet conditions, but I greatly preferred the Mk1 when I got to hear both on my own amp at home. The Mk1 have plenty of air and presence in the treble just like the Mk2.5, but don't have that unusual midrange coloration (sorta Lambda-ish).


----------



## Solude

I've thought about it.  Waiting for them to settle into a final build.  Also with a balanced B22... might be able to go HE-6 though I think the HE-500 is likely better.


----------



## n3rdling

The Audeze aren't even as detailed as SR-5s, let alone any Lambda or Omega headphone.  Those orthos mask a ton of information which is one of the main reasons I ended up selling mine.


----------



## Anaxilus

I'm kind of surprised how many people don't seem to mind the bass presentation on the HE500.  Talk about woolly, one note and boring.


----------



## Elysian

Well, a lot of people like the bass on the LCD-2.2.  The ortho bass is impactful, but it's nowhere near as textured and resolving as on a good electrostat.  All volume and one-note texture.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Well, a lot of people like the bass on the LCD-2.2.  The ortho bass is impactful, but it's nowhere near as textured and resolving as on a good electrostat.  All volume and one-note texture.


 
   
  Under ideal circumstances bass on the 2.2 is far superior to anything the HE500 can muster.  The HD800 and even HE400 embarrass the HE500 in the lows.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The Audeze aren't even as detailed as SR-5s, let alone any Lambda or Omega headphone.


 
   
  Are we talking detail retrieval or treble volume levels?  Amps matter a lot here too though I would think the Dynahi would have been enough.  The Dynalo wasn't, not because of power, but resolving ability.  Sadly when I did my amp comparison thread, the only two amps to really not take anything away from the Audeze was the B22 and WA22.  The Trafomatic, Cavalli and HeadAmp all dropped the ball somewhere.  By extension the Burson HA-160D was also poorer than all of the above, being much grainier than the GS-1.
   
  That said, I would love it if the promise of stats was obviously true but I wonder.  Yes the diaphram weighs nothing, yes it tracks the stators but the slew rate required is monsterous compared to dynamic headphone amps and lets be honest, not a ton of great dynamic amps out there despite a much larger market.  
   
  Because of fit issues I can't return to the 007 line.  That leaves the 507 and 009 paired to from what I gather is the best Stax amp despite its price the 323s.  Should it perform, I can get in line for a BHSE.  From what I gather, the Cav LL = 323, the WES is meh and the GES is surpassed by the 323s.  Not sure anyone knows anything about the EC model other than it will likely look like a rats nest internally which I believe is an EC trademark


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's not perfect but still the best Stax amp one can buy for anywhere close to 1k$ new.
> 
> I liked both of the GES amps I've heard but Woo have a tendency to mess up any circuit they touch with "improvements".  The 6S4A used in the GES is certainly the best output tube of the lot so the amp should be very good.


 
   
  So did I misread the 323s praise?  Should it really be that the 323s is a great $1000 amp but the 727ii is better though more expensive and that the GES is still in the conversation at $1500 let alone the $750 used price?


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





solude said:


> From what I gather, the Cav LL = 323, the WES is meh and the GES is surpassed by the 323s.  Not sure anyone knows anything about the EC model other than it will likely look like a rats nest internally which I believe is an EC trademark


 
   
  Which of these amps have you heard?


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> I'm kind of surprised how many people don't seem to mind the bass presentation on the HE500.  Talk about woolly, one note and boring.


 
   
  Stax 007 mk1/SR-Omega are my reference system I listen to at home. The HE-500 are a fun alternative I use at the office and do well with less demanding music quality like Spotify streams. Bass issues are less critical to me when the Audeze "shelves" its midrange so early. HD800 even when modded require a hopelessly colored amp to sound half way decent.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





solude said:


> Are we talking detail retrieval or treble volume levels?


 
  Detail retrieval, I'm not a newbie   In fact the lack of detail is very apparent in the bass.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





solude said:


> Not sure anyone knows anything about the EC model other than it will likely look like a rats nest internally which I believe is an EC trademark


 
   
  Someone hasn't seen the more recent pics.  Probably find that where you found the original rats nest.


----------



## Radio_head

Craig has cleaned up the wiring since Srajan complained about it a couple years back.  Either way, the Electra is mounted on a PCB so won't have the mass of wires that Craig's P2P amps have.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> HD800 even when modded require a hopelessly colored amp to sound half way decent.


 
   
  I don't consider the Manley 300B, Super 7, BA, ZD, ZDT, WA5, Stratus hopelessly colored at all.  Did you plug them into a Leben or Burson?


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Which of these amps have you heard?


 
   
  I have only heard and owned for four years the HeadAmp KGSS and Stax O2 Mk1.  Both bought new back when the Senn 650 was top dog.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Craig has cleaned up the wiring since Srajan complained about it a couple years back.


 
  The one I saw was the BA from Feb 2011 6moons review.  That one has some boards too


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





solude said:


> The one I saw was the BA from Feb 2011 6moons review.  That one has some boards too


 
   
  May 2012


----------



## Solude

Dang it, now I have to consider EC again   Though not Stax related yet so... I'll post my question in the related thread.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> I don't consider the Manley 300B, Super 7, BA, ZD, ZDT, WA5, Stratus hopelessly colored at all.  Did you plug them into a Leben or Burson?


 
   
  I have heard that Manley as a preamp, the BA and WA5. Their 300B implementations use the 6SN7 as a driver tube which is a very poor choice for the 300B. With its 7500-8000 ohm plate resistance it's not a good choice for driving anything like 2A3, 300B, 6c33, etc. It is a great driver tube for easier to drive tubes. You can mitigate this mush to some degree by trying to correct the sound with transformers, etc but there are better circuits. Just because it's not as colored as a really bad amp doesn't mean it's not colored.
   
  Those sort of 300B amps actually work well to tame such things as horn colorations, so I'm not surprised they're popular. I've actually enjoyed some of those types of amps with my friend's Avantgardes to tame hot recordings. In the end his ECC99/300B Lundahl amps are superior to any 6SN7/300B or 2A3 amp.
   
  edit: I see the Manley uses a 6SL7.... just as bad. Not shocking given the Manley house sound. Not sure which version of the BA I heard, it's a good amp. Maybe hopelessly was pushing the hyperbole a bit too far


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Maybe hopelessly was pushing the hyperbole a bit too far


----------



## Radio_head

solude said:


> The one I saw was the BA from Feb 2011 6moons review.  That one has some boards too


 
  That was the review I was referring to - I guess it was more recent than I remembered.  The internals with the boards you see in the review is the PS.  The actual amp (the other box internals in the review) is wired point to point, which is not the case with the Super 7 or the plain Electra.  Regardless, he has cleaned up the wiring since then.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The Mk2 was worse but could be fixed.


 
   
  What's the symptom- midbass bulge?  What's the cure- sealing a port someplace? Is there a procedure outline someplace?
   
   Or -?
   
  How can an owner tell which 007 he has?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





> How can an owner tell which 007 he has?


 
   

   
   
  But I'd still like to know what the suggested fix is.


----------



## rudi0504

I have official email from Stax distributor in Hong Kong and they have answer from Stax Japan as follow 

Stax people do not know the name SR-007 MK2.5

Stax has only two type from Stax SR 007 mk 1 and mk 2

Please do not believe about the Stax Sr 007 mk 2.5

stax reply there is not this items in market  fault products of 2.5 version


----------



## n3rdling

2.5 is a nickname for the SZ3 serial numbered units.


----------



## rudi0504

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> 2.5 is a nickname for the SZ3 serial numbered units.


 
  Oh is only Nickname
   
  I though new version from Stax Sr 007 mk 2.5


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Spritzer. In your opinion, how good is the original SR Omega since you had them before. compared to the more recent Stax ear Speakers like the 507 or the 009? They rarely come up on eBay n when they do, the asking price seems to run to thousands!! will it sound good on the SRM t1? Thanks for any feedback from any Stax Mafia as well.


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





milosz said:


> What's the symptom- midbass bulge?  What's the cure- sealing a port someplace? Is there a procedure outline someplace?
> 
> Or -?
> 
> How can an owner tell which 007 he has?


 

 Let me chime in with my limited knowledge. I believe the Mk 2.5 is every production with serial number starting with SZ. So if you headphones starts with SZ 1234567 then its the Mk 2.5. CMIIW
   
  Sorry. n3rd beat me to it


----------



## musicman59

A friend just gave me a SRD-4. Since I have the 727II already i really don't have much use for it but can someone tell me if the SRD-4 can be use with the SR-009?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote:


forbigger said:


> Let me chime in with my limited knowledge. I believe the Mk 2.5 is every production with serial number starting with SZ. So if you headphones starts with SZ 1234567 then its the Mk 2.5. CMIIW
> 
> Sorry. n3rd beat me to it


 
   
  No, this is not correct. What I have distilled from the previously given information:
   
  Numbers only: early SR-007, what we now call 'mk1'.
  SZ-1: later units of original SR-007, not any different from early mk1, just new numbering, hence still 'mk1'.
  SZ-2: SR-007A (silver, Japanese market) or SR-007mk2 (black, export market).
  SZ-3: so-called mk2.5, still sold as SR-007A or SR-007mk2, but apparently slightly different from SZ-2 numbered SR-007A/mk2.


----------



## jaycalgary

Case says 007 its a Mk1, 007a is a Mk2, serial number starting SZ2 is older MK2 and SZ3 is the newest MK2's. Just off the top of my head.


----------



## Michgelsen

According to this the SRD-4 is meant to power electrets, which means it does not provide a bias voltage. You can therefore not use it with an SR-009 or any other electrostatic model.
   
   
  Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> A friend just gave me a SRD-4. Since I have the 727II already i really don't have much use for it but can someone tell me if the SRD-4 can be use with the SR-009?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> According to this the SRD-4 is meant to power electrets, which means it does not provide a bias voltage. You can therefore not use it with an SR-009 or any other electrostatic model.


 
  Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Hi Spritzer. In your opinion, how good is the original SR Omega since you had them before. compared to the more recent Stax ear Speakers like the 507 or the 009? They rarely come up on eBay n when they do, the asking price seems to run to thousands!! will it sound good on the SRM t1? Thanks for any feedback from any Stax Mafia as well.


 
   
  It's one of the best headphones ever made but the 009 is similar in tone and better in pretty much every way.


----------



## El_Doug

I owned the Omegas, and now run the 009's - the 009's have made the SR-Omega obsolete.  It was one of the finest headphones ever made, and I preferred them to the O2's, but the 009 is everything the Omega was, but done better
   
  Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Hi Spritzer. In your opinion, how good is the original SR Omega since you had them before. compared to the more recent Stax ear Speakers like the 507 or the 009? They rarely come up on eBay n when they do, the asking price seems to run to thousands!! will it sound good on the SRM t1? Thanks for any feedback from any Stax Mafia as well.


----------



## gilency

jaycalgary said:


> Case says 007 its a Mk1, 007a is a Mk2, serial number starting SZ2 is older MK2 and SZ3 is the newest MK2's. Just off the top of my head.




Sorry Jay, but I think Michgelsen is correct.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Thanks for feed back re the SR Omega.... no wonder it is commanding such a high resale value.! There was one advertised a few weeks back from Europe asking for US $4k..Wow.
  Cheers.


----------



## El_Doug

Was probably Wiktor... he often posts things for sale at ridiculously and unprecedentedly high prices.  He put his Orpheus set up for something like 30k.  To put things in perspective, I bought the Omegas for 2.5k
   
  Quote: 





yoong 2112 said:


> Thanks for feed back re the SR Omega.... no wonder it is commanding such a high resale value.! There was one advertised a few weeks back from Europe asking for US $4k..Wow.
> Cheers.


----------



## wink

Wiktor's prices are high, but usually the gear is in pristine condition. Caveat Emptor applies.


----------



## n3rdling

Orpheus has sold on multiple occasions for 30k or more...then ones he has trouble selling are usually listed at like 36-38k


----------



## YOONG 2112

Wow... at that kind of price, aside from pure sentiments, the technical aspects off the latest 009 is superior and cost less to buy new!!
  is it like a cult to own one cos it is no longer in production n only 500 plus pairs floating in the world ...so it is rare. status symbols perhaps.
  Also, I need to get a matched pair of 6CG7/6FQ7 for my SRM t1 amp. I understand te T1 sounds best with the Japanese tubes like Toshiba or Mazda. However, I can't source any from eBay. a Stax dealer in Asia quoted $150.00 for a pair with gold pin from STAX factory...?? No kidding again. Any feed back re this issue... or any one has a good spare pair for sale?? Thanks


----------



## Hoax

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> All Stax amps are compatible with any of their headphones (not counting very old types). The Stax suggested combo's just mean a slightly lowered total price, but there's no reason why a SR-307 would be better with an SRM-323s than a SR-407 would for example. In case you would like a different combo than the suggested ones, a dealer should be able to give a slight discount too I think, if you buy via a dealer.
> So, all amps should be fine, although the SRM-007t(II) is regarded around here as only being a very small step up from the SRM-006t(s) and thus not worth the upgrade.
> The SRM-323s has a very good 'bang for the buck' reputation. The SRM-727 is well regarded too (after a small mod).
> Aftermarket amps exist as well, but are more expensive and aimed at those who seek ultimate performance, in a cost-no-object kind of way. Then there's the possibility of DIY.


 

 Thanks for the info


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi  There is a mis info re the Stax factory 6CQ7 tubes price. My apologies.The cost is $US 75 for a pair with golden pins. That's quite costly . Cannot obtain any Toshiba or Matsusita as recommended by Spritzer. Wonder what is next best? please advise.


----------



## sachu

the Mazda 6CG7 is nothing to write home about IMO.
   
  A little too thick in the midrange.
   
  I'd take a good pair of RCA Clear Tops over any other 6CG7 variety out there.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

As I took the 507 from the box a driver just came loose from the frame.. What kind of screw drivers this thing use ?


----------



## spekkio

That sounds oddly familiar. I think it happened to svyr before. It uses Torx screwdrivers (star shaped, same type used in Apple iMacs previously), if I don't remember wrongly it's the T6 / T8.


----------



## cat6man

Hi,
   
  Just a heads up that I've got a SRM-T1S and Lamda Pro Classic rig up for sale on Head-Fi's For Sale Forum.
  This is the same rig I had at the recent NY meet.
   
  It (and my other stuff available) will be for sale exclusively on Head-Fi until the weekend, at which point I'll add what's left on A-gon.
   
  Marty (now that I have my BHSE, time to sell off stuff to help pay for 009)
   
  stuff available: (go to Head-Fi For Sale Forum)
   
   
 Stax SRM-T1S headphone amp
 Stax Lambda Pro Classic headphone
 Cosmic Headroom Headphone amp
 Magnum Dynalab FT101A Elite/Etude FM receiver
 Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth (FM signal pre-amp)
 B&W 801 Matrix 2 speakers
 Cal Gamma DAC
 Melior/Museatex BS-1 DAC
 Audio-gd Digital Interface (w/power supply option)


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> That sounds oddly familiar. I think it happened to svyr before. It uses Torx screwdrivers (star shaped, same type used in Apple iMacs previously), if I don't remember wrongly it's the T6 / T8.


 
  Thanks, luckily my glasses key from the kit worked.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The Mk2 was worse but could be fixed.  The Mk2.5 is far worse and can't be fixed.
> 
> Any headband related issues should be tackled by bending the two arcs.  I have a very large head and my 007's are all as comfortable as the 009 but it took some trial and error to get it right.  This is also crucial for them to sound right.
> 
> ...


 
   
  >>The Mk2 was worse but could be fixed.  The Mk2.5 is far worse and can't be fixed. <<
   
  What are the physical differences between the Mk2 and Mk2.5-  what did Stax do to the Mk2.5?  I assume this was intentional, an attempt to 'improve' it....
   
  As I understand it, the Mk2 had a port in the diaphragm support plate as well as a smaller earcusion spring compared to the Mk1. So, I'm curious- what was done to the Mk2.5?


----------



## gilency

The 007 Mk1 with KGSSHV has a lot of bass and treble. By comparison with the SRD7 Mk2, it's like I bought a new pair of headphones.
Same with the Sigma 404.
I don't think I would enjoy any more highs. It sounds just perfect to my ears.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> >>The Mk2 was worse but could be fixed.  The Mk2.5 is far worse and can't be fixed. <<
> 
> What are the physical differences between the Mk2 and Mk2.5-  what did Stax do to the Mk2.5?  I assume this was intentional, an attempt to 'improve' it....
> 
> As I understand it, the Mk2 had a port in the diaphragm support plate as well as a smaller earcusion spring compared to the Mk1. So, I'm curious- what was done to the Mk2.5?


 
   
  They changed the driver or rather the diaphragm which did alter the sound quite a bit.  It now uses the same diaphragm as the SR-009 (which Stax won't disclose anything about).  The SZ2 version used pretty much the same driver as the Mk1 but they might have altered it a bit to get a brighter sound.  I certainly never got them to match a Mk1 100% but I got damn close.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just a heads up that I've got a SRM-T1S and Lamda Pro Classic rig up for sale on Head-Fi's For Sale Forum.
> This is the same rig I had at the recent NY meet.
> ...


 
  Hi Cat6man says to see his gears are for sale at head-fi sale forum. can you please guide me to that site? how to reach the right page after i typed in the search button to for sale? thanks


----------



## jaycalgary

Still majorly impresses by the Lambda Signature's. I had a nice shape Ebay pair put away for some time that I finally am trying. The 407's when I had them sounded did not sound anywhere near as good to me in comparison. If the diaphragm is 1um does that mean it would take 1000 stacked to equal 1mm?


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They changed the driver or rather the diaphragm which did alter the sound quite a bit.  It now uses the same diaphragm as the SR-009.


 
   
  So 007 frame plus 009 diaphram = poop?  All SZ3 are this config?


----------



## Draygonn

yoong 2112 said:


> Hi Cat6man says to see his gears are for sale at head-fi sale forum. can you please guide me to that site? how to reach the right page after i typed in the search button to for sale? thanks



http://www.head-fi.org/t/613559/fs-stax-srm-t1s-lambda-pro-classic-headphones


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





solude said:


> So 007 frame plus 009 diaphram = poop?  All SZ3 are this config?


 
  All SZ3's are Mk 2.5's


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, 1 mm (millimeter) equals 1000 μm (micrometer).
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Still majorly impresses by the Lambda Signature's. I had a nice shape Ebay pair put away for some time that I finally am trying. The 407's when I had them sounded did not sound anywhere near as good to me in comparison. If the diaphragm is 1um does that mean it would take 1000 stacked to equal 1mm?


----------



## DaveBSC

Liquid Lightning guts.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Quote: 





draygonn said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/613559/fs-stax-srm-t1s-lambda-pro-classic-headphones


 
  Hi Draygonn
  Thanks for the link. Cheers.


----------



## KingStyles

That sure is a lot of heatsinks.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Looks allot like the KGGSHV


----------



## El_Doug

Doesn't look much like one at all, to me...
   
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> Looks allot like the KGGSHV


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> Looks allot like the KGGSHV


 
  Not even close...... My heatsinks are bigger 
  And my Pot is better.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Doesn't look much like one at all, to me...


 
  To my untrained eye the on board version kinda does.


----------



## Anaxilus

I think it looks like a Little Dot mk3.


----------



## anetode

gilency said:


> Not even close...... My heatsinks are bigger
> And my Pot is better.




Throw on a blue knob and I'm sold.


----------



## gilency

In depth review of the KGSSHV:


----------



## n3rdling

Nice   What stepper is that? Khozmo?


----------



## gilency

Goldpoint. Khozmo was DOA and got a refund for it.
If you are asking for the pot on the Cavalli amp, I have no idea.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Not even close...... My heatsinks are bigger
> And my Pot is better.


 
  What's the biasyou are running in the output stage on that amp?
   
  the goldpoint is nothing to write home about. TKD pot is much better to my ears. Have made a direct comparison. 
   
  Preferred the TKD over the Khozmo too infact with the caddocks.


----------



## johnwmclean

How did you test them sachu? That's got to be one of the hardest tests to set-up and do accuratelly, the variables are a mile long.


----------



## Solude

I'd love to get a 4 gang pot into my B22 for convenience but performance?  No.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They changed the driver or rather the diaphragm which did alter the sound quite a bit.  It now uses the same diaphragm as the SR-009 (which Stax won't disclose anything about).  The SZ2 version used pretty much the same driver as the Mk1 but they might have altered it a bit to get a brighter sound.  I certainly never got them to match a Mk1 100% but I got damn close.


 
  Does the Mk2.5 also have the 'port' that the Mk2 has?


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Can any one tell me if upgrading a 323S amp for the 717 would improve significantly the 507 ?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> How did you test them sachu? That's got to be one of the hardest tests to set-up and do accuratelly, the variables are a mile long.


 
   
  Wired them up for passive pre duty on my speaker rig. used vampire connectors on both, bulkwire PTFE for signal wiring. Only variable being the pot/attenuator.


----------



## spritzer

That KGSSHV is very nice indeed and I love the switch.  Must get some of those... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I'm currently listening to the worst Stax amp I've ever tried (details can be found over there) and it's one of the number of projects the Mafia has been working on lately.  We are finalizing at least one new amp circuit a week now, complete with circuit boards so busy as hell.  Some truly crazy and wonderful ideas being discussed and worked on from portable Stax amps to portable Stax_ tube_ amps...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  The other end of the spectrum is an all tube design which borrows elements from the BHSE, T2 and GES. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Does the Mk2.5 also have the 'port' that the Mk2 has?


 
   
  Yes but they did alter it a bit so it sort of works now. 
   
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> Can any one tell me if upgrading a 323S amp for the 717 would improve significantly the 507 ?


 
   
  The 717 is more colored so it should make them a bit more mellow.  More power on tap too but the 507 is pretty easy to drive.


----------



## gilency

Portable electrostatic amps? Me likes!
  Tube design? Can't wait to see what the Stax mafia is working on.
  The KGSSHV bias is 580.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





gilency said:


> The KGSSHV bias is 580.


 
  errr..not what i meant buddy. Makes me wonder if you are really using those offboard heatsinks at all going by your response.
   
  What is the current bias in the output stage set to. Tell me you are pushing at least 15mA to justify those offboard sinks. I'd be running 20mA actually, if i had the desire to build an offboard version of a stat amp.


----------



## kevin gilmore

WOW, sachu, what a nice guy you are today.
   
  The off board heatsink version running at +/-500v puts 20 watts of heat into the heatsink(s) per channel.
  plus about 3 watts into the air.  If its built with the standard part values. You can double it if you really
  want to.


----------



## johnwmclean

sachu said:


> Wired them up for passive pre duty on my speaker rig. used vampire connectors on both, bulkwire PTFE for signal wiring. Only variable being the pot/attenuator.




Fair enough.

Not the result I would have expected, but there you go, your ears and your taste.
Did you match dB levels? I would have thought goldpoints better channel matching would have had the edge. I'd rather 24 steps with better matching, than infinite resolution with not so good matching, but again this comes down to listening habits and taste.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> WOW, sachu, what a nice guy you are today.
> 
> The off board heatsink version running at +/-500v puts 20 watts of heat into the heatsink(s) per channel.
> plus about 3 watts into the air.  If its built with the standard part values. You can double it if you really
> want to.


 
  huh.. what do you mean buddy?? 
   
  20 watts per channel.. i would imagine those massive heatsinks can surely handle twice that easily, no?. If only running stock values as that on onboard versions, why even bother to take the extra effort to build offboard versions in that case??! 
  Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Fair enough.
> Not the result I would have expected, but there you go, your ears and your taste.
> Did you match dB levels? I would have thought goldpoints better channel matching would have had the edge. I'd rather 24 steps with better matching, than infinite resolution with not so good matching, but again this comes down to listening habits and taste.


 
  The TKD was more to my tastes indeed. The other two had their own areas of strength over the TKD no doubt.
   
  I level matched using my ears, bot with a SPL meter if that is what you are asking. The TDK's 1dB matching is plenty enough IMHO. Reason being there is probably even greater variation when entire chain (transducers, variation in devices between channels on the amp, preamp, tubes in my case, source, etc) is taken cumulatively.


----------



## arnaud

Sachu, 
   
  BTW, do you know the bias value for the production LL? I think Kevin posted the values for Stax and his amps before somewhere but I've lost track of that.
   
  Arnaud


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Sachu,
> 
> BTW, do you know the bias value for the production LL? I think Kevin posted the values for Stax and his amps before somewhere but I've lost track of that.
> 
> Arnaud


 
   
   
  Hi Arnaud,
   
  First of all, thanks for helping in acquiring the sample TKD pot for me.
   
  As for your question, you should pose it to Alex on his sponsored thread. He is surely going to be forthcoming on it.
   
  I am not involved with Cavalli Audio in any capacity at all anymore and am not privy to his design decisions anymore. I only used to do some prototyping work now and then for him, but since January have stopped even that.


----------



## sachu

and you must be referring to this thread
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/582518/electrostatic-amplifiers-voltage-ratings


----------



## arnaud

sachu, yes exactly... Thanks!


----------



## kevin gilmore

Those are peak to peak voltage ratings.
The output bias stage current ( I.e class a power)
Is something completely different. Since the load is a capacitor
Calculations are a bit different and the power can translate into
Slew rate.

The total output power of the t2 for example is 18 watts yet anyone
That has touched the heatsinks on one knows how warm it gets.
( watts per channel)

The bhse and kgsshv are in the same range.

The srm323 and srm727 are much lower.

For many amps I can calculate the power.

40 watts of class A power total is a significantly high number


----------



## arnaud

Based on Kevin's thread and Alex's reply in the sponsor thread, the LL sits in between the Stax mps and BHSE in terms of output stage bias current:

- Stax 727: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 6.6mA
- KGSS: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 8.3mA
- Cavalli Audio LL: 400V rails / 1600V PP / 13mA 
- BHSE: 400V rails / 1600V PP / 18mA
- DIY T2: 500V rails / 2000V PP / 14mA

I did not list the KGSSHV as it can come in different flavors as far as voltage swing and class a bias...

Also, wouldn't be straight forward to add how this translates in terms of max power at like 1kHz into SR007 / 009 headphones since their capacitance is known (and you're mostly driving a capacitive load)? Isn't the impedance like 1/( j C omega )?

Edit: corrected BHSE info.


----------



## gilency

Per Kevin Gilmore's information:
   
[size=medium]2000 volts peak to peak stator to stator  (+/-500 power supplies)[/size]
[size=medium]KGSSHV (ixys parts)[/size]
   
[size=medium]1800 volts peak to peak stator to stator (+/-450 power supplies)[/size]
[size=medium]KGSSHV (sanyo parts)[/size]
   
  5.5ma x 4  (you can turn it up if you have lots of heatsink)


----------



## seacard

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Based on Kevin's thread and Alex's reply in the sponsor thread, the LL sits in between the Stax mps and BHSE in terms of output stage bias current:
> - Stax 727: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 6.6mA
> - KGSS: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 8.3mA
> - Cavalli Audio LL: 400V rails / 1600V PP / 13mA
> ...


 
   
  Anybody know where the Electra will come in?


----------



## kevin gilmore

So here is an example.
   
  From stax website on sr009
  110 pf including cable
  at 10khz the impedance is 145kohm
   
  So lets pick a number, say 1120 volts peak to peak stator to stator
  that is 400 vrms.
   
  400 vrms into 145 kohm at 10khz is  1.1 watt
  at 20 khz it is 2.2 watts
   
  at 1khz its 100 milli watts.
   
  This is however a theoretical power if the load was actually resistive
  which it clearly is not.
   
  Of course actually listening to 20khz at that level is bound to damage
  your hearing.
   
  Craig has said that the electra is going to be about 1800 vppss
   
  Also the BHSE is 400 volt rails.


----------



## YOONG 2112

My T1 has still the original Japanese "Golden Arrows for Stax" tubes in them. the sound is " ok." since I have no other similar amp to make a direct comparison.The set would be at least 20 years old by now .! Is it time to change the tubes? Are tubes "used by" time dependent or "usage hours" dependent. ? I have no idea how many hours it has clocked as I bought it 2nd hand.Thus If deemed necessary, I have  3 different pairs of  6CG7/6FQ7 of different brands for replacement ie RCA clear top, Sylvania and Raytheon ( these are NOT NOS but all used and tested to work ok). Which of the three would best suit the T1? Any feed back on the sound characteristics of these three?
  Also the T1 has a circuit board with a number PB-201 printed, Can anyone please help with instruction that can guide me on how to set the correct bias ? Much appreciated.!


----------



## Michgelsen

Instructions to adjust the bias of the SRM-T1 are found here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1
   
  If you have new tubes and are going to rebias the amp anyway, why not try it with new tubes? You'll have to open the amp either way. I've read good things about the the RCA Clear Tops in Stax amps, but have no experience with them. When I had my SRM-T1 I had some nos NEC tubes installed which were good as well.
   
  Have you ever switched tubes before? In case you haven't, it must be noted that pulling out the tubes must be done very carefully, while gently moving them around a *little* bit but never twisting them. This way they slowly come out of their sockets. It can feel like they're almost stuck in there. Pulling too hard at once may damage the PCB. Putting in the new ones can be done in the same way.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They changed the driver or rather the diaphragm which did alter the sound quite a bit.  It now uses the same diaphragm as the SR-009 (which Stax won't disclose anything about).  The SZ2 version used pretty much the same driver as the Mk1 but they might have altered it a bit to get a brighter sound.  I certainly never got them to match a Mk1 100% but I got damn close.


 
  I would really like to see a guide to the versions of 007, preferably with photos - a lot of the older sets out there have had their headbands replaced so the serial numbers are gone.


----------



## arnaud

Kevin, many thanks for the additionalrrv clarification. I corrected the BHSE spec.

While we're at Electronic Circuits 101, and if you (or anyone with the knowledge)  don't object to teach some to the fools like myself:
1. Is the dissipated power at idle related to the bias current on the output stage (it would seem like as the larger amps require large heat sinks and the capacitive load does not dissipate anything)?
2. Be it tubes or transistors, they both dissipate a lot of energy into heat, even when they're not loading / driving anything, and especially if they're heavily biased into class A?
3. How to derive the slew rate from a given voltage swing target (which I guess I can estimate from the sensitivity and desired SPL) / current bias / load capacitance?
4. Conversely, how to define the necessary slew rate for a given load / desired voltage swing?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> - Stax 727: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 6.6mA
> - KGSS: 350V rails / 1400V PP / 8.3mA
> - Cavalli Audio LL: 400V rails / 1600V PP / 13mA
> - BHSE: 400V rails / 1600V PP / 18mA
> - DIY T2: 500V rails / 2000V PP / 14mA


 
  First a comment on this one. 4 of the above are output stage current per driver. multiply by 2 to get the output
  stage current per channel.  The cavalli number is likely the current per channel because otherwise the amp
  would be doing 40 watts of heat inside that box, plus the power supply power and that  seems unlikely.
   
  1) the heat is directly related to the output stage current, where most of the power goes. Some additional heat
  comes from the driver stage and input stage.
   
  2) same as 1 above. a class A device idles at a specific power level. Music does not change the power level.
  The maximum efficiency is something like 40%, but for electrostatics, much much lower.
   
  3 and 4)  Now this gets complicated, and more power does not necessarily indicate a faster slew rate, but
  usually does. To calculate minimum slew rates, many people assume a sine wave at 20khz, know what
  the maximum peak to peak voltage is, and calculate what you would need to get there. Its the huge
  voltage swings that are at issue. A dynamic amp can get away with 5 volts per microsecond. An electrostatic
  amp needs at least 50 volts per microsecond, and 200 volts per microsecond is way better, only the T2
  does that.


----------



## arnaud

Thanks again Kevin. Good point about the current per driver vs channel, I will check.

Otherwise, reading again your other thread / your exchanges with Frank Cooter, it would seem that:
- Slew Rate ( dV/dt ) assuming a sine wave is: SR = Vp x 2pif (typically in V/micro second).
- Minimum target for slew rate is (500 Vp) SR = 60V/micro sec at 20kHz
- For a capacitive load, the instanteneous current and voltage are related by i(t) = C x dV/dt = C x SR
- The sr009 has 110 picoF capacitance so that translates into minimum current of 6.6mA (per driver)
- A capacitive load has an impedance as Z=1/(j omega C). 
- The sr007mk2 has a 150kOhm impedance at 10kHz, which translates into 106 picoF and 6.3mA (per driver)

Assuming the above is correct, my last questions:
1 Is it that the output stage can only deliver as much current as its bias before going non linear?
2. How to estimate the dissipated power (from the output stage) from the max voltage and current bias?
3. Can we estimate the amp's slew rate from other specs or it has to be measured?


----------



## runeight

Just a small correction. The 13mA is per CCS not per channel.


----------



## kevin gilmore

1) except for the esp950 and TOGTE, none of the rest of the electrostatic amplifiers are push pull.
  So ultimately the source or sink current in the output stage is the limit before the amplifier has to clip.
  Push pull drivers usually can go rail to rail, and may drop out of class A when doing so.
   
  2) The output stage power is strictly the voltage across the output stage times the output stage bias.
  So for example at +/-400 volts and 18ma, each of the 2 drivers consumes 14.4 watts per channel.
  Plus the filament power for tube amps. Which is also significant depending on which tubes and
  how many of them.
   
  3) The slew rate is hard to calculate, Tube amps have built in compensation (the capacitance of the grids)
  which limits how fast they can slew. Grounded grid is a way around this, but requires a fair amount of
  drive power.  For almost all solid state amps, some external compensation is required because otherwise
  they tend to oscillate. This also limits the slew rate. Miller effect and the resulting zeros in the right half plane
  dictate this, whether tubes or solid state. Accurate spice models can predict reasonably well the actual
  slew rates.
   
  This is why many of the electrostatic circuits begin to look the same.


----------



## spritzer

One other thing to consider is how the output stage handles the given load.  I'm running the B-10 at a little over 11mA (the absolute max the tubes can take) so power roughly on par with the KGSS but the output stage design just can't handle the reactive load so it sounds like crap and measures even worse.  Other points include output impedance and output capacitance though mostly the latter.  If that is too high then it will do just the same damage to the sound as a tube amp with excessive output impedance driving a 8ohm speaker.


----------



## Tilpo

I'm wondering whether it's true for all electrostats, but my SR-202 seems to play bass in an odd way. Very short low pitched tone bursts that would normally cause a thump do not cause a thump on the SR-202, while it does on my HD650. However, the bass does extend very deep. Even with very low bass tones there really does not seem to be any loss in level.
Is it just me, or is there an actual reason for this phenomenon?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> One other thing to consider is how the output stage handles the given load.  I'm running the B-10 at a little over 11mA (the absolute max the tubes can take) so power roughly on par with the KGSS but the output stage design just can't handle the reactive load so it sounds like crap and measures even worse.  Other points include output impedance and output capacitance though mostly the latter.  If that is too high then it will do just the same damage to the sound as a tube amp with excessive output impedance driving a 8ohm speaker.


 
   
  what the hell is a B-10?


----------



## adktitan

Quote: 





sachu said:


> what the hell is a B-10?


 
  This could get to be some interesting reading....


----------



## Radio_head

sachu said:


> what the hell is a B-10?


 
  Link in the shoutbox. 
   
  Let's keep this stuff where it already is.  No need for the inevitable future thread locks, post deletion, the usual warnings, etc.


----------



## purrin

huh, what are you guys talking about?


----------



## arnaud

Kevin, Birgir, thanks again for the basics, I almost feel like I am getting it (big warning sign). Thanks alex too for confirming the spec of the LL.

 What I was trying to get at is a simplified table with the very least amount of information required to compare various amp spec. 

From this discussion, it would seem like we need at least: 
1. Maximum Voltage swing (PP stator to stator which is close to 4x the rails voltage)
2. Output stage bias current (assuming a class A operation)
3. Slew rate at 20kHz
4. Output impedance / output capacitance (similar to the damping factor into 8 ohms resistive load for an electro-dynamic amp?)
5. Total dissipated power (to get a feel for how much power consumption and heat issues)

It may start to sound like a pissing contest but wouldn't such basic info help anyone get an idea of how an amp can potentially perform?

In regards to the Electra, 1800V (PP/SS) and 40W of "plate power per set of 6L6 tubes"). I assume it's 500V rail (some is lost due to the tubes / circuit so you get less than 2000V swing) and because post mentionned 40mA into each tube. Now does that plate power really translate into 40mA available on the output?


----------



## KingStyles

Just curious, I saw these on ebay. I didnt know sony ever made a electrostatic headphone. Anybody ever try one of these.


----------



## milosz

Yeah I heard a pair of these back in the day (late 1970's.) All I remember is they sounded good. Not good as compared to Stax or compared to other headphones, I heard them at CES, in comparison to nothing.  I listened for about a minute and they sounded good to me.  At the time I owned Koss ESP-9's.  See http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sony_ECR-500
   
  Sony also made some full-range electrostatic speakers, but I've never heard these.  http://www.thevintageknob.org/sony-SS-R10.html
   
  Sony has made some interesting products over the years, Sony has made some very good products over the years, and Sony has made some junk over the years.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Kevin, Birgir, thanks again for the basics, I almost feel like I am getting it (big warning sign). Thanks alex too for confirming the spec of the LL.
> What I was trying to get at is a simplified table with the very least amount of information required to compare various amp spec.
> From this discussion, it would seem like we need at least:
> 1. Maximum Voltage swing (PP stator to stator which is close to 4x the rails voltage)
> ...


 
   
  It would certainly give an indication but we'd also need distortion specs into a fixed load at full output to get a clearer picture.  The bigger issue though is that manufactures do not want the buyers to make an informed decision but much rather rely on forum hype, mythical BS and other such things.


----------



## Solude

^
  Truth


----------



## milosz

I think that some of the smaller "manufacturers" aren't equipped to make these measurements.  Might not have anything beyond a DVM and a 'scope, though they SHOULD.  I bought an HP distortion bridge for $85 on eBay.  Got a low distortion sine generator there too.
   
  Stax does list output THD, frequency response and "[size=small]Maximum output voltage[/size]" - I assume this means voltage swing.  Slew rate is not listed.
   
  WOO says the WES is capable of 1300 volts p-p swing; no THD or slew rates given.   WOO says their GES has less than 0.1 % THD, but doesn't list voltage swing or slew rate. 
   
  Cavalli lists no specs for their Liquid Fire
   
  Ray Samuels Audio does not list any specs for their A-10
   
  HeadAmp lists the Blue Hawaii as capable of 1600 volts p-p swing; no distortion specs or slew rate numbers given.
   
  No specs for the Koss amp output, distortion, slew rate etc.


----------



## seacard

I am generally a numbers guy, but even if we had all these numbers, would we be able to tell much about the amp's sound? For example, on mwilson's Liquid Lightning, things like voltage swing, output stage bias current, slew rate, etc. wouldn't change from 100 hours of burn-in to 130 hours of burn-in, and yet whatever component is responsible for soundstage and instrument separation has apparently changed significantly in performance somewhere in that 30-hour range so that "soundstage has started to widen, instrument separation is getting better." If an amp can indeed make such a noticable transformation late in the burn-in process, then there must be something else going on here.


----------



## spritzer

I take any remarks like that with a healthy dose of skepticism.  I've built and rebuilt enough equipment to to know there is no such thing as burn in and nobody has been able to prove its real.  If component is changing its value after a few hundred hours then it is by definition broken and should be replaced.  Let's look at real possibilities then:
   
  One cause can be due to thermal drift.  Going by the numbers Alex has posted then the Liquid Lightning must be burning hot even at low ambient temp and that can cause all sorts of issues.  80W is a lot of heat to dissipate on those tiny sinks and if the amp was setup with the top off then it can drift even further with it on. 
   
  Another factor which ties into the heat issue is the actual mains voltage in the wall.  Up here in the north it never changes more than 1V but I guess it's getting quite warm in Florida and the load on the AC line must fluctuate quite a bit.  Even though the amp has a regulated PSU the wall voltage can still change how it sounds and even knock it out of regulation in extreme cases. 
   
  Then we have the whole problem with space charge in the drivers and issues related to the bias supplies.  These can change the sound from hour to hour, day to day depending on humidity and other environmental factors.  I know enough people had issues with the Exstata bias supplies so if the LL uses anything similar then that could apply.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I just had my T2 on the bench for the 2.5 year tune up. It still measures under .1% thd, and the
  slew rate is still over 220 volts /microsec.
   
  For those attempting these measurements, very few of the 10x and 100x scope probes are
  actually rated for this kind of thing, and when you push them to voltages in excess of 400 vpp
  they fail, usually dramatically. You need active scope probes rated for voltage and slew rate.
   
  I'm pretty sure i saw somewhere that justin rated the BHSE at .3% thd, and it does much
  better than that, but its not on his webpage.
   
  And you should test with a dummy load. Using real headphones for testing is a bad thing
  for your wallet.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

So after ChiUniFi6 i can officially say Im gonna become part of the Stax crowd. I heard the O2s for the first time at Canjam 2010, on justins rig, with the Sony SACD player and BHSE. and i couldnt stand it, it was way too polite, no bass impact at all. the Stax were just too soft for the kind of music i listen to(mostly metal). so i mostly wrote Stax off as not for me. Well below i pasted in my report on the SR-009s from yesterday, and man am i impressed.
  Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Holy cow guys, this meet was awesome. Want to start offby thanking Steve and Billy for planning the whole thing, great job guys!
> 
> the highlight of this meet for me was easily the Sr-009. I went wanting to hear it, but I was entirely too sure that i wasnt going to like it. I had never liked the sound of the O2s, they always sounded too soft/polite what have you, regardless of the amp. Even on the beast that is the BHSE that had no bass impact, sure they had plenty of bass resolution, but that wasnt enough for me. The LCD-2s were the loves of my life cause they had bass impact and yet were still pretty good at everything else. Well thinking that this was just a part of life when it came to Stax headphones, I just _knew_ that i was never going to get Stax headphones. Well when the Sr-009s came out everyone was saying that they had mroe impact, and was like "sure ok, but i bet they never have enough for me" which legitimately made me happy cause it would save me tons of money. I was planning on going to the meet, hearing the Sr-009s were too soft still, and then spending the rest of the time comparing the LCD-3s and the HE-6s. Well i put in some Origin, which is a torture test of mine for equipment. and i think Jude can attest to this, the **** eating grin that spread across my face once it started playing. The Sr-009s are truely amazing, they may not have as much bass impact as the LCD-2/3s, but they defintitely have enough, and literally everything else about them just destroys the orthos, like a completely different level of resolution. And as i went through several other demo discs of mine, i just got more and more excited about them. I listened to like half of Aenima by Tool cause it was so mesmorizing. anyways, i guess thats enough gushing about the Sr-009s. the moral of this story is that since i started with them, the rest of the meet was rather anti climactic for me, since i knew i wasnt going to be buying LCD-3s or HE-6s, i would just start saving up for some Sr-009s instead.


 
   
  And to think that was all from Rays A-10, i cant wait to hear them off of a BHSE or most likely i would build a KGSSHV for them.


----------



## MohawkUS

Stax too polite? You should check out some of the Stax phones from before the 'earspeaker' era. I'm very picky about having an aggressive enough tone for metal and they've got it. Bass is far from light, my SR-5 could hang with an Ultrasone any day for bass impact(the 2900 at least, haven't heard the others) The SR-5NBs have a good way of keeping the aggression but not the harshness. If you're interested in the 009s you probably don't care much about the vintage stuff, but there is an alternative for students like me who can't afford the high end gear.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> So after ChiUniFi6 i can officially say Im gonna become part of the Stax crowd. I heard the O2s for the first time at Canjam 2010, on justins rig, with the Sony SACD player and BHSE. and i couldnt stand it, it was way too polite, no bass impact at all. the Stax were just too soft for the kind of music i listen to(mostly metal). so i mostly wrote Stax off as not for me. Well below i pasted in my report on the SR-009s from yesterday, and man am i impressed.
> 
> And to think that was all from Rays A-10, i cant wait to hear them off of a BHSE or most likely i would build a KGSSHV for them.


 
   
  i have done A/B comparisons between the O2 MK1 (not sure if this was the pair you heard in 2010) snd the 009.  the 02 MK1 definitely has more bass impact than the SR-009 - at least my pairs.  i would say this is probably due to tastes changing over time, or the flaws of listening under meet conditions.  I would definitely try both headphones again in an A/B test.  Would have liked to attend the meet but couldn't do it.  At the NY meet and in future meets I'll have 2x BHSEs each running a O2 MK1 and a 009 (this way the volumes can be adjusted so they are matched, as the headphones have different sensitivity), and people can draw their own conclusions.  See the NY meet impressions thread as some preferred either headphone


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  a completely legitimate claim, it could also be due to different sources and different amps. I would definitely love to sample them back to back like that though.


----------



## milosz

Measurements don't tell the whole story, but I am suspicious of any manufacturer that doesn't list them.  What are they hiding?
   
  I think voltage swing and THD are good things to list.  I don't know that an amp with 0.01% THD at 1 kHz, full swing  would absolutely sound better than one with 0.5% THD under the same conditions, but if an amp measures 15% THD....  I'd like to know that. When it comes to electrostatic headphone amps,  I think if the manufacturer lists the THD it's likely to be low enough to sound OK. If they DON'T list it, I'm guessing it's embarrassingly high. And I think there are amps out there whose numbers would embarrass their makers.
   
  Voltage swing ABSOLUTELY tells you something about the sound of the amp.
   
  And I'd love to see slew rates listed. I think you'd see the same thing as with THD- the manufacturers wouldn't list the units with embarrassing numbers.
   
  Some square wave pictures would be nice to see, too.
   
  I understand that some amps don't come from 'manufacturers' but from cottage industrial settings. Even so, I'd like to see SOME numbers.


----------



## jcx

ES amps, loads are a little different (dare I say complex?) - the max V is limited by the power supply V, but the current limit of the output stage can limit the slew rate
   
  in most other audio amps it is the input stage and internal frequency compensation that limits slew rate - and huge excess slew rate numbers are desired as an indirect indication of input stage linearity
   
  for ES amps with limited output stage current into the headphone&cable C load determining slew rate the relations are different - like supply V limiting peak Vswing we can have low distortion right up to the point the slew rate limit kicks in
   
  most ES amp designs are single ended Class A - even if the distortion # at full V output are as large as 10% it is "low order", smoothly decreases with signal level and is commonly inaudible with music
   
  additionally slew rate limiting distortion itself is fairly inaudible and music signals have much lower slew rate than most expect - "infinite" slew rate "square" waves are totally unfair test signals for audio amps
   
  so while more hard spec # are reassuring of the manufacturer's competence I don't know if they help that much with sorting "audio quality" between ES amps - for typical topologies, bias it may be that Vmax is one of few moderately significant factors
   
  of course gain, input impedance, noise are minimum requirements, I seldom see volume pot balance tracking #, or log-conformance specs


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> So after ChiUniFi6 i can officially say Im gonna become part of the Stax crowd. I heard the O2s for the first time at Canjam 2010, on justins rig, with the Sony SACD player and BHSE. and i couldnt stand it, it was way too polite, no bass impact at all. the Stax were just too soft for the kind of music i listen to(mostly metal). so i mostly wrote Stax off as not for me. Well below i pasted in my report on the SR-009s from yesterday, and man am i impressed.
> 
> And to think that was all from Rays A-10, i cant wait to hear them off of a BHSE or most likely i would build a KGSSHV for them.


 
   
  Yes, IMO the SR-009 are awesome and since I got them the rest of my collection gets just a little head time. My ultimiate goal is to get an A-10 from Ray but the SRM-727II does a great job too with them.


----------



## spritzer

The whole issue with manufacturer measurements is that many of them just lie.  Rudistor was the best as he posted numbers one could only reach at temps closer to zero Kelvin... 
   
  Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Yes, IMO the SR-009 are awesome and since I got them the rest of my collection gets just a little head time. My ultimiate goal is to get an A-10 from Ray but the SRM-727II does a great job too with them.


 
   
  The A-10 is no way, shape or form an upgrade over the 727.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The whole issue with manufacturer measurements is that many of them just lie.  Rudistor was the best as he posted numbers one could only reach at temps closer to zero Kelvin...
> 
> 
> The A-10 is no way, shape or form an upgrade over the 727.


 
   
  Have you listened to both?


----------



## purrin

I think it depends upon what you are looking for. Many listeners put certain tonal, presentation, or other qualities at the top of their priority list. Absolutely nothing wrong with this. For example, lots of people _loved_ the prototype Electra at T.H.E SHOW. However, I along with a few others, liked it, but didn't _love _it. So Craig went back to the drawing board (I'm absolutely certain he heard the same things we did, but I know he also wants to price it at a good spot.) But then again, I've been fortunate enough to be spoiled (the bar is set very very high for me). Still, I can certainly see people preferring the Electra to my current rig. Maybe.


----------



## Radio_head

Is he going to make it direct coupled?  I recall him saying that he was thinking of making the change but it would take some time.


----------



## purrin

Not completely. I don't think _any _of his amps are direct coupled. He's redoing the PS so no need for caps at the output. That should make a huge difference. I think he may be getting rid of the differential amp at the front and replacing some caps with interstage transformers. He likes transformers. If he made a solid-state amp, I'm sure there would be a transformer somewhere along the signal path. I'm guessing there's probably a reason why he's called Eddie Current.


----------



## Radio_head

He does love himself some transformers.  He should just go all out with a badass TOTL stat amp and call it Megatron.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Have you listened to both?


 
   
  I've had too many 727's to count and I built my own A-10 from highly detailed pictures I was sent by an owner but using better parts, better power supply, removing the useless "preamp" and phase splitter, running the tubes within spec (except at insane levels) and tried to compensate for the SRPP issues with a non fixed load.  I also tried the circuit just as Ray built it so yeah, I've heard both.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've had too many 727's to count and I built my own A-10 from highly detailed pictures I was sent by an owner but using better parts, better power supply, removing the useless "preamp" and phase splitter, running the tubes within spec (except at insane levels) and tried to compensate for the SRPP issues with a non fixed load.  I also tried the circuit just as Ray built it so yeah, I've heard both.


 
  ouch, like i said, it could totally have been the amp was adding some bass impact or something that might account for the additional bass impact that i heard in the 009s vs the 007s i heard at canjam...
   
  but then again, ive also never heard the SACD player ever again either...too many variables for me to be able to say one way or the other why i loved the 009s and couldnt stand the 007s...i need to get out to the next NY meet so i can hear justins setup with two BHSEs side by side so i can get conclusive data.
   
  Or justin, what other meets are you gonna be at that might be closer to me? do you go to any in NC or Virginia?


----------



## arnaud

^
  Justin is based in Virginia, isn't he? In which case, you may be able to listen to like 8 production BHSEs simultaneously if he was to do an open house


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> ^
> Justin is based in Virginia, isn't he? In which case, you may be able to listen to like 8 production BHSEs simultaneously if he was to do an open house


 
   
  Yep, i knew he was down there some where. and also know there are some larger meets down there that he probably attends thats why i asked  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  New york is like 10 hours from me, thats quite the drive for a single day meet. if only more locals had Stax or our Dayton meets...


----------



## Solude

Trying to come up with a reasonable setup to compare to the Senn 800 and LCD-3.  Thinking WEE and 507 off the B22.  Any chance of that setup competing?


----------



## purrin

May be better off getting a used SRM323 or SRM-T1. The SR507s sound pretty good out of those.


----------



## graben

purrin said:


> May be better off getting a used SRM323 or SRM-T1. The SR507s sound pretty good out of those.



I would agree, that or a 407 and a 323 or t1 based on your taste


----------



## seacard

Quote: 





purrin said:


> May be better off getting a used SRM323 or SRM-T1. The SR507s sound pretty good out of those.


 
   
  Is the consensus that the SRM323 going to be better than even a great speaker amp (say a $10000, 350 watt behemoth) + a WEE / SRD7?


----------



## Solude

Not too many 120V models pop under the $500 mark.  Do either of those have the performance of a B22 though?  Would like it to be a comparison of the cans as much as possible.  Should be 507 wipe the floor with the dynamics I'd look into move to a more permanent setup though I haven't found any volunteers for building a KGSSHV.  Something about kids and wife they'd be leaving behind


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





seacard said:


> Is the consensus that the SRM323 going to be better than even a great speaker amp (say a $10000, 350 watt behemoth) + a WEE / SRD7?


 
  You're only as strong as your weakest link so it seems to me your question has little to do w/ a speaker amp at all.


----------



## Solude

I guess the question I have and lots of Stax amp noobs have is... Are the Stax brand amps worth their asking price or are the commercially available DIY models a better value?  And likewise at what point does a stat amp become better than a known good speaker amp with a transformer w/ bias tacked on like the WEE?


----------



## MohawkUS

seacard said:


> Is the consensus that the SRM323 going to be better than even a great speaker amp (say a $10000, 350 watt behemoth) + a WEE / SRD7?




I believe that it was said earlier that running through a speaker amp and T box won't get you the last bit of detail, but with a good amp it'll be better than low-mid range STAX amps. Likewise Stax amps don't sound quite as dynamic or bassy(correct me if I'm wrong on this).


----------



## catscratch

I think the advantage of transformer boxes is the ability to use a colored amp to color the signal in any way you want. The transformers don't really have much of a signature of their own, but if you have a syrupy euphonic speaker amp and you want that sort of sound in your rig, transformer rigs are the easiest way to do that. Most dedicated stat amps, or at least the good ones, are from the "straight wire with gain" school of sound and that's not what everybody wants.

On the other hand no transformer rig will come close to a 717 in technical ability, much less a BHSE.

I think a better, but more difficult approach is to get a source that sounds the way you want, get a headphone that sounds how you want, and then get the best, most transparent amp for it.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> On the other hand no transformer rig will come close to a 717 in technical ability, much less a BHSE.


 
   
  Are we sure?  I used to think the Dynalo/GS-1 was a very able and wire with gain but both the WA22 and B22 provided texture and detail into the LCD-2 that was simply not as apparent with the GS-1 or LF for that matter.


----------



## Solude

Should add that both the GS-1 and LF wiped the floor with mid level ~$700 amps


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> transformers don't really have much of a signature of their own


 
   
  I presume you mean this is some relative sense?


----------



## catscratch

I mean that besides rolling off a bit at both ends of the frequency extremes the transformer boxes don't seem to affect the frequency response too much. However they do limit resolution, and with the O2 they seem to lack power, limiting dynamic range and bass control too.

It's hard to make a good comparison, since I need a speaker amp that sounds exactly the same as a dedicated electrostatic amp, and then set up some way to test with the transformer and without. I don't have that.


----------



## Solude

Transformers shouldn't lack power unless the amp feeding it does.  The challenge in building a stat amp is getting high power WITHOUT going to the transformer crutch.  No?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





seacard said:


> Is the consensus that the SRM323 going to be better than even a great speaker amp (say a $10000, 350 watt behemoth) + a WEE / SRD7?


 
   
  Those transformers don't even need 35W, much less 350. An amp with that much muscle is likely to be Class A/B, with more of a focus on power than finesse. What you want is pure Class A.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Measurements don't tell the whole story, but I am suspicious of any manufacturer that doesn't list them.  What are they hiding?
> 
> I think voltage swing and THD are good things to list.  I don't know that an amp with 0.01% THD at 1 kHz, full swing  would absolutely sound better than one with 0.5% THD under the same conditions, but if an amp measures 15% THD....  I'd like to know that. When it comes to electrostatic headphone amps,  I think if the manufacturer lists the THD it's likely to be low enough to sound OK. If they DON'T list it, I'm guessing it's embarrassingly high. And I think there are amps out there whose numbers would embarrass their makers.
> 
> ...


 
   
  i agree with you.  I'm sure you've also seen the manufacturers that are posting numbers that are impossible to obtain or dont make sense.  hard to compete against that when there is no one to govern it…FCC isnt going to get involved like they did with the crap with consumer power amp figures.
  quick google search brings up one such example in the first result.  site:head-fi.org rudistor impossible SNR johnson 
  note the BANNED title under the person who comments on this (for other reasons I am sure, but stuff like this stirs the pot)


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> ouch, like i said, it could totally have been the amp was adding some bass impact or something that might account for the additional bass impact that i heard in the 009s vs the 007s i heard at canjam...
> 
> but then again, ive also never heard the SACD player ever again either...too many variables for me to be able to say one way or the other why i loved the 009s and couldnt stand the 007s...i need to get out to the next NY meet so i can hear justins setup with two BHSEs side by side so i can get conclusive data.
> 
> Or justin, what other meets are you gonna be at that might be closer to me? do you go to any in NC or Virginia?


 
  july 27 (i think thats the date) george mason library in northern VA.  besides driving or flying you could check Amtrak's schedule to the Vienna metro station


----------



## n3rdling

Come to the LA meet in August Justin


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Come to the LA meet in August Justin


 
   
  i am


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> ....numbers one could only reach at temps closer to zero Kelvin...


 
   
  This presents a problem for you...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I ALWAYS submerge my amplifiers in a Dewar of liquid helium; doesn't everyone?


----------



## Magick Man

solude said:


> Trying to come up with a reasonable setup to compare to the Senn 800 and LCD-3.  Thinking WEE and 507 off the B22.  Any chance of that setup competing?




I have the SRM-717 and the WEE (running off my Cary SLI-80). As you might imagine, the Cary+WEE combo (in triode) is more lush and euphonic, but not syrupy. The SRM-717 is more detailed but also a little dry. Not that the Cary+WEE isn't revealing, it is, just not quite to the same extent.


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> july 27 (i think thats the date) george mason library in northern VA.  besides driving or flying you could check Amtrak's schedule to the Vienna metro station


 
   Its July 28th, here is the link with the address:
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/608355/va-md-dc-meet-on-saturday-july-28-2012


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> july 27 (i think thats the date) george mason library in northern VA.  besides driving or flying you could check Amtrak's schedule to the Vienna metro station


 
   
  that drive is a ways further than i would want to so soon after ChiUniFi, so i checked the amtrak site and didnt see the station you were talking about


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> that drive is a ways further than i would want to so soon after ChiUniFi, so i checked the amtrak site and didnt see the station you were talking about


 
   
  you're right, you'd have to take amtrak to Union Station in DC then get on the metro (which is easy) and take it to the Vienna/Fairfax-GMU station.  from there, there's probably buses but you could easily get a ride


----------



## Nebby

I think I might drive out there for the meet, don't have much gear to bring though


----------



## mink70

Not sure this is the place for this, but I'm a newcomer to Stax--yesterday I received the 2050A system, having never listened to stats before. Needless to say, I'm overwhelmed by the greatness of this thing. The shocking clarity, the effortlessness, the diorama-like splaying open of the mix, the surprisingly deep bass--exactly as amazing as I've read. The 202s sounded a bit thin out the gate, but after 20 hours with the amp on, the sound fleshed out quite a bit. The voices are eerie. And the thing I didn't expect is how Stax handles recordings I considered to be poor. It digs the voices out of the mix and presents everything for inspection--I've never heard Springsteen's Nebraska sounds this good, or Lou Reed's Transformer and Berlin.
   
  A quick question, though--when I took them off of my head, I was horrified to discover that while I was listening, the foam sheet inside the ear cups dissolved and got torn in half. The foam got stuck to my ears and some fell inside the metal mesh over the drivers. Is this a catastrophe or fairly common? Is the foam dust dangerous to the drivers? Should I pull out the rest of the foam? Or cover the mesh with something else?


----------



## Michgelsen

The drivers are protected by additional dust covers, so it's not catastrophic. The foam has a tendency to fall apart over time and the phones work fine without it. If you were to buy new pads, they come with an attached piece of cloth as a replacement for the foam.


----------



## Don Quichotte

The cloth is not as acoustically transparent as the foam IMO and the new pads themselves sound worse than the old ones. I have posted about this on this thread a while ago and my findings have been mostly confirmed by at least another head-fier. YMMV


----------



## mink70

Ooph, so my strange intro to Stax continues to go awry. Yesterday it was 95 in New York, and I listened to the 202s for a while. Every 20 minutes or so I had to take off the headphones and wipe the sweat off the pads. Then, I noticed that a few drops of it had gotten inside the metal mesh and was on the gray surface of the drivers (or whatever that is under the mesh). Presumably, the dissolved foam would have stopped this. Is this dangerous?


----------



## The Monkey

Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and suggest you refrain from listening to the stats while dripping sweat.


----------



## catscratch

In the event that they do zap you the amount of current going through them is miniscule enough to not do you any harm, but the same can't be said for the headphones as sweat hitting the drivers is almost certainly going to damage something. Not to mention the salts and residues left behind when sweat dries.

Wet hair + 'stats = no.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





mink70 said:


> Ooph, so my strange intro to Stax continues to go awry. Yesterday it was 95 in New York, and I listened to the 202s for a while. Every 20 minutes or so I had to take off the headphones and wipe the sweat off the pads. Then, I noticed that a few drops of it had gotten inside the metal mesh and was on the gray surface of the drivers (or whatever that is under the mesh). Presumably, the dissolved foam would have stopped this. Is this dangerous?


 
  Stax headphones have dust and sweat protection diaphragms.  If these diaphragms are still in good shape, I wouldn't worry about the sweat.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and suggest you refrain from listening to the stats while dripping sweat.


 
   
  Lol, how about the Sauna?


----------



## Solude

Didn't someone at a meet blow one of Kevin's BH due to wet hair?


----------



## johnwmclean

Wet hair at meets should be dealt with by instant death or alternatively if theres a RSA amp around they have to listen to that for the rest of the meet.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





solude said:


> Didn't someone at a meet blow one of Kevin's BH due to wet hair?


 
   
  I thought that someone spilled a glass of water on his O2s...


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Lol, how about the Sauna?


 
   
   
  Better than the steam room.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Wet hair at meets should be dealt with by instant death or alternatively if theres a RSA amp around they have to listen to that for the rest of the meet.


 
   
  I'd opt for the former and consider it a mercy.


----------



## mink70

Glad I could inject some gross levity into the humdrum world of electrostatics  But really now, the things have pleather pads and everyone here complains of sweaty ears, so it must be something the designers took into account.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Wet hair at meets should be dealt with by instant death or alternatively if theres a RSA amp around they have to listen to that for the rest of the meet.


 
   
  Why you want to reward them?


----------



## Radio_head

Death is only rewarding to those who have a death wish...


----------



## mink70

Having listened to the 202/252 for a few long days and nights, I'm totally gobsmacked by the sound. For the first time, I'm listening for hours with my eyes closed, having the feeling of watching a movie, or wanting to jump into the soundfield. Having owned a dozen dynamic phones, I've never experienced that illusion. The Stax remind me of Vermeer—from a distance, his paintings give the impression of having almost hyperreal detail. For me, the Stax do the same thing, even on so-so recordings, and while I know that it's in part an illusion (like the Vermeers), I can't get enough of it. Honestly, I cannot imagine going back to dynamics. 
   
Of course, the mind begins to imagine even better things. I'd love a little more body and musical flow, and even more dynamics. And okay, a tad more bass wouldn't hurt. I'm planning to replace the pads with the leather ones from the 404LE, but still not sure about amp upgrades. Looking through the massive Stax thread, I get the feeling that the sonic differences between Stax amps aren't huge in absolute terms, and the prices certainly can be high. I know the srm-252 can easily be improved upon, but does putting a thousand dollars into a better amp for the Lambdas make sense? Similarly, is there much to be gained from moving from a 202 to a 404LE? Or is the only meaningful way forward the 02/tube amp?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> I thought that someone spilled a glass of water on his O2s...


 
   
  And on the T2. I knew it the next day because the bearing on the volume control was rusted.


----------



## justin w.

This is why i really hope they dont do beer again in the CanJam @ RMAF room this year….luckily, the worst I got on my new SR-009s were some dried on pretzels.


----------



## gilency

Are etiquette rules displayed in the rooms?:
  1- no food or drinks while listening or in close proximity.
  2- don't wear headphones if wet or greasy hair.
  etc


----------



## spritzer

Just hand out deionized water for everyone to drink.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> And on the T2. I knew it the next day because the bearing on the volume control was rusted.


 
   
  I'm still pissed off about that.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Are etiquette rules displayed in the rooms?:
> 1- no food or drinks while listening or in close proximity.
> 2- don't wear headphones if wet or greasy hair.
> etc


 
  Tyll actually reprinted LFF's meet rules in his NY meet thread, and they seem sensible:
   
_1) Please treat others' gear with the utmost care and respect.
 2) Do not unplug headphones without asking permission from the owners first.
 3) Do not turn anything on or off without asking permission first.
 4) Do not move anyone's gear from their established area without asking permission.
 5) Always treat other headfiers with the utmost respect.
 6) If a woman shows up - DO NOT GAWK. They are part of the human species and also deserve the utmost respect. Do not fear that this is the only one.
 7) Do not bring food or drinks near any equipment, including your own.
 8) If you eat, please WASH YOUR DIRTY, GREASY HANDS BEFORE touching other people's equipment.
 9) Do not ask the vendors too many questions. They want to have fun too and others may want to ask questions as well.
 10) Always follow the rules of the host. He/She/They have been gracious enough to host a meet so he/she/they deserve the most respect and if you don't follow any of the above rules, AT LEAST follow this one.
 11) No shirt, no shoes, no headfi meet.
 12) Do not put screw drivers in electrical outlets.
 13) If it's summer - please wear deodorant.
 14) If it's winter - please wear deodorant._


----------



## Draygonn

kevin gilmore said:


> And on the T2. I knew it the next day because the bearing on the volume control was rusted.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just hand out deionized water for everyone to drink.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  He is mad, but i'm the one with the trashed headphones.


----------



## Anaxilus

_15) No hair care products._


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Death is only rewarding to those who have a death wish...


 
   
  I was talking about listening to a RSA amplifier......


----------



## Magick Man

musicman59 said:


> I was talking about listening to a RSA amplifier......




Which one? Some are okay and some are... not.


----------



## spritzer

There are good RSA amps?  Must be made by some other company with the same initials... 
   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> He is mad, but i'm the one with the trashed headphones.


 
   
  You should send them along with the next care package and I'll see if I can't resurrect them for you.


----------



## DavidMahler

i made a thread about this inquiry, but i'd probably get a quicker answer here...
   
  I bought an HE Audio Jade and I've been using it with my Aristaeus.
   
  However, when I try to use my BHSE the plug does not fit.  It simply doesn't accept the plug.  
   
  Does anyone have any idea what the problem is?
   
  Thanks


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There are good RSA amps?  Must be made by some other company with the same initials...


 
   
  Predator + Etymotics ER4 sound good as my travel kit, though I'm thinking about a pico-slim as a smaller, pocket friendlier option.


----------



## gilency

Well, I sure hope that everybody who is planning to attend reads and follows the above mentioned rules


----------



## Desiretree

What is the best amplifier to go with the SR-009's?


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> What is the best amplifier to go with the SR-009's?


 
   
  DIY T2


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> What is the best amplifier to go with the SR-009's?


 
  The one you can afford.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Which one? Some are okay and some are... not.


 
  Dark Star with HE-6 sound great and i have listen to the A10 as headphone amp and also pre-amp and I personally like it even there is people here that think otherwise... to each his own...


----------



## SoupRKnowva

musicman59 said:


> Dark Star with HE-6 sound great and i have listen to the A10 as headphone amp and also pre-amp and I personally like it even there is people here that think otherwise... to each his own...




And there's others of us that thought the HE-6 sounded pretty terrible with the Dark Star. Not a good paring at all. Though I guess the amp could go well with other phones. The HE-6s on the other hand sounded phenomenal out of an AMB B24 speaker amp. Filled them right out


----------



## Magick Man

I listened to the Darkstar at the last meet and it sounded okay (with HE-6 and HE-5LE), and Ray was cool to talk with, but the price is kinda crazy for what you get, IMO. It was $700 more than I payed for my SLI-80 demo, and there really is no comparison, the Cary's in a completely different league.


----------



## Desiretree

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> DIY T2


 
   
  Is it easy to build?


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Dark Star with HE-6 sound great and i have listen to the A10 as headphone amp and also pre-amp and I personally like it even there is people here that think otherwise... to each his own...


 
   
  Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> And there's others of us that thought the HE-6 sounded pretty terrible with the Dark Star. Not a good paring at all. Though I guess the amp could go well with other phones. The HE-6s on the other hand sounded phenomenal out of an AMB B24 speaker amp. Filled them right out


 
   
  Because of the HE-6 and all the different amp opinions, mine included. That's what lead me to going the Stax route.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> Is it easy to build?


 
   
  Absolutely not, probably some people's worst nightmare.  $4-5K in parts only.....


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> Is it easy to build?


 
   
  Prolly the most difficult DIY stat build that is out there.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> And there's others of us that thought the HE-6 sounded pretty terrible with the Dark Star. Not a good paring at all. Though I guess the amp could go well with other phones. The HE-6s on the other hand sounded phenomenal out of an AMB B24 speaker amp. Filled them right out


 
   
   I also power the HE-6 with a Threshold T2 preamp ($5,200 at its time) and a Threshold T50 (500 watts/ch in 8 ohms Class A) and IMO it is very difficult to determine the difference between them and the DS.
  Both Sound excellent to my ears but SillySally is right not at the level of the SR-009/SRM727II combo.
   
  I know there are some anit-RSA people around and that is OK, everybody is entitled to his/her opinion and choices. In my case I don't have anything to say about Ray or his products but good things. I have never had any issues with his products and he has always treated me very good and vey friendly.


----------



## spritzer

I've never seen a positive remark about the A-10 from anybody which has any experience with electrostatics.  Hard clipping into louder transients and the "sound" changing from song to song due to the non linear nature of the circuit and all the distortion that brings us are things to look for.  Still some people might like this sort of thing and for them I have good news!!  The preamp is even worse...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Now for something less depressing, the best amp I've found for the SR-009 is the 40 year old Stax SRA-12S.  These run hot so don't even try to plug one into a wall before replacing all the caps but we might do a trial run on some boards of a modern take on this design and see how we like it. 
   
  Quote: 





cat6man said:


> Predator + Etymotics ER4 sound good as my travel kit, though I'm thinking about a pico-slim as a smaller, pocket friendlier option.


 
   
  Was that the one that had 20%+ THD into an IEM load?  Could be one of the smaller ones but that's just a distortion generator, not an amp.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote:


spritzer said:


> Could be one of the smaller ones but that's just a distortion generator, not an amp.


 
   
  It's a "tone control".  Some people are into that stuff, though.


----------



## rudi0504

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> What is the best amplifier to go with the SR-009's?


 
   You can try like my set up for Sr 009 :
   
  Source : CD Player Stello CDA 500 as CD Transport
   
  DAC : Eximus DP 1
   
  Headamp : Electrostatic Sax Srm  727 mk2
   
  Preamp : Eximus Dp 1
   
  The Connection as follow : CDP CD 500 as Transport with coax cable to Eximus Dp 1 as DAC 
                                          from Eximus DP 1 analog output  XLR ( as pre amp ) to Stax Srm 727 mk2 Line Input XLR ( as Power Amp ) to SR 009
                                          with this set up you must turn the Volume Srm 727 mk 2 to MAX and the volume regulation from Eximus Dp 1
   
  This set up also can use with Stax Sr 007 mk2 , with this set up i can get very good Sound Quality
   
  Even Better than my dynamic headphone HD 800 and Ortho Set Up LCD 3


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





anaxilus said:


> Absolutely not, probably some people's worst nightmare.  $4-5K in parts only.....


 
   
  Sourcing and testing all the parts seems absolutely ridiculous.  The pics of people buying hundreds of parts only to find out they're all counterfeits would be rage inducing.


----------



## ujamerstand

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Sourcing and testing all the parts seems absolutely ridiculous.  The pics of people buying hundreds of parts only to find out they're all counterfeits would be rage inducing.


 
   
  I have purchased over a hundred c3675s, and I can confirm your sentiment.


----------



## SHAHZADA123

Hi all
I need to sell my Stax setup and have priced it accordingly :

http://www.head-fi.org/t/615149/stax-sr009-wes-with-upgraded-tubes-pictures-added-price-reduced-to-sell#post_8480027


----------



## mink70

I know the Stax Mafia here must get deluged with questions from stat newbies like me, but I've posted a question here and in a separate thread, and have had no luck getting an answer. I'm combing through previous posts on this thread using the megathread search, but it's quite huge and, um, waywardly structured. 
   
I just got the amazing 2050A, and here's what I'd like to know. I'd love a little more body and musical flow, and even more dynamics. I'm planning to replace the pads (rotten foam) with the leather ones from the 404LE and thinking about amp upgrades. Looking through this thread, I get the feeling that the sonic differences between Stax amps aren't huge in absolute terms. I surmise that the srm-252 can easily be improved upon, but does putting another thousand dollars+ into a better amp for the Lambdas—like the 323, 006, even SRM1/mk2—make sense? Similarly, is there much to be gained from moving from a 202 to a 404LE? Or is the only meaningful way forward the 02+tube amp?
   
So--would someone kindly chime in? Pretty please?


----------



## Tilpo

I'm not so much an expert on Stax, but investing a large amount of money to upgrade the amp while leaving the headphones as-is seems a bit pointless. I would first try a headphone higher up the Lambda chain, either the 407 or 507 (or buy used and get the older models). If you still want more from that point onward you can always upgrade your amp.
From what I know the Lambda series headphones do sound relatively similar, so the upgrade between them may not be as huge as one'd like it to be. However I do believe the upgrade will be bigger than upgrading to a similarly priced amp.


----------



## graben

Quote: 





mink70 said:


> I know the Stax Mafia here must get deluged with questions from stat newbies like me, but I've posted a question here and in a separate thread, and have had no luck getting an answer. I'm combing through previous posts on this thread using the megathread search, but it's quite huge and, um, waywardly structured.
> 
> I just got the amazing 2050A, and here's what I'd like to know. I'd love a little more body and musical flow, and even more dynamics. I'm planning to replace the pads (rotten foam) with the leather ones from the 404LE and thinking about amp upgrades. Looking through this thread, I get the feeling that the sonic differences between Stax amps aren't huge in absolute terms. I surmise that the srm-252 can easily be improved upon, but does putting another thousand dollars+ into a better amp for the Lambdas—like the 323, 006, even SRM1/mk2—make sense? Similarly, is there much to be gained from moving from a 202 to a 404LE? Or is the only meaningful way forward the 02+tube amp?
> 
> So--would someone kindly chime in? Pretty please?


 
  The 202 are really limited by the amp in the 2050a. You will notice a big change moving up to a srm1mk2,t1, or 323. I really don't think you would need more than that as lambdas are easy to drive.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





graben said:


> The 202 are really limited by the amp in the 2050a. You will notice a big change moving up to a srm1mk2,t1, or 323. I really don't think you would need more than that as lambdas are easy to drive.


 
   
  I compared the 202 playing from the 252 vs the KGSSHV, it's not much difference unless you're really pushing the volume. It's only 'slightly' less 'compressed sounding' when you push it.
   
  The little 252 is a great amp for the 202's.


----------



## nick n

Well it's happened. The inevitable.  I've sort of been part of the junior mafia with the PWB's ( with Stax SR-1 or 2 drivers according to Spritzer ), SR-50, SR-5, ooops also the SR-001 MK2 portables ( and _numerous_ other electrets ) now I got my promotion to meagre low ranking street-level enforcer ( due to continued ties to the ortho side ).
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  There's a couple of SRD-7 Pro Adapters and a nice Lambda Nova Classic due in the next few days. This was owned or passed through Spritzer's hands at one point.
   
  The big bias world.
  Going to be interesting.
   I hear it gets worse from here on in. Was hoping it will hold me off for at least a year or two.
   
  Well isn't this fitting:  My 1000th post is right here now.


----------



## Magick Man

What is the mafia ranking? Do you need SR-009s to be in the top ranks? 

Oh, I found a set of 4070s for a good price, really looking forward to hearing how they perform. I imagine the SRM-717 will be sufficient to drive them, since that was the amp Stax paired them with.


----------



## Magick Man

nick n said:


> Well it's happened. The inevitable.  I've sort of been part of the junior mafia with the PWB's ( with Stax SR-1 or 2 drivers ), SR-50, SR-5, ooops also the SR-001 MK2 portables ( and _numerous_ other electrets ) now I got my promotion to meagre low ranking street-level enforcer ( due to continued ties to the ortho side ).h34r:
> There's a couple of SRD-7 Pro Adapters and a nice Lambda Nova Classic due in the next few days. This was owned or passed through Spritzer's hands at one point.
> 
> The big bias world.
> ...




Oh, that's nice. I always wanted to try the Nova Classics, generally speaking how do they compare with the current Lambda line?

Congrats on 1000.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I compared the 202 playing from the 252 vs the KGSSHV, it's not much difference unless you're really pushing the volume. It's only 'slightly' less 'compressed sounding' when you push it.
> 
> The little 252 is a great amp for the 202's.


 
   
  Hey deadly, does the HV scale better with other Stax phones?
  I can’t tear myself away from the O2/KGSSHV


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Hey deadly, does the HV scale better with other Stax phones?
> I can’t tear myself away from the O2/KGSSHV


 
  I can't hear you man! 
  I am listening to mine.


----------



## deadlylover

Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Hey deadly, does the HV scale better with other Stax phones?
> I can’t tear myself away from the O2/KGSSHV


 
   
  I can't really tell ya, I only have the O2's and 202's, but I do think the KGSSHV is overkill for the SR-202's.
   
  Yeah, the O2 does play great on the KGSSHV, _especially _when you start pushing the volume.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I can't hear you man!
> I am listening to mine.






   
    




   
   
  Quote:


deadlylover said:


> I can't really tell ya, I only have the O2's and 202's, but I do think the KGSSHV is overkill for the SR-202's.
> 
> Yeah, the O2 does play great on the KGSSHV, _especially _when you start pushing the volume.


 
   
   
  The only comparison I have to evaluate from was Toms BUFF32 / KGSS / O2(SZ) from the last meet up here in the mountains.  
  My BUFF32 / KGSSHV / O2(MK1) sounds like a different animal...


----------



## mink70

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I compared the 202 playing from the 252 vs the KGSSHV, it's not much difference unless you're really pushing the volume. It's only 'slightly' less 'compressed sounding' when you push it.
> 
> The little 252 is a great amp for the 202's.


 
  Huh, disagreement. So maybe there's not much to be gained from an amp upgrade? And spritzer says the 202s are one of the best lambdas, up there with 404LE and Lambda Sigs. Anyone else care to weigh in?


----------



## Hoax

How would anyone rate the bass/imaging/soundstage of the SR 507 vs the 007 and 009 ?


----------



## spekkio

In order of 'spaciousness' - SR 007 (least) --> SR 507 --> SR009 (most). SR009 is very HD-800ish in this respect, being open-sounding and spherical at the same time. The SR507 is relatively more 'planar' in that you can feel the sound is coming from the two drivers beside your head. As a result the center image is a little diffuse-sounding (pushed more to the left and right). The SR007 has excellent center focus. Not so sure about the 009 regarding this.


----------



## Michgelsen

I do not have experience with many different amps, but remember when I upgraded from my SRM-T1 to a SRM-717 that I actually found the T1 somewhat better with the SR-202.
  To my ears, the SR-202 are quite neutral: no part of the frequency spectrum stands out and the amount of bass and highs are perfect for my taste. There's certainly no etch or any other annoying emphasis, which was a relief compared to the Lambda Signature (etch) and HE60 (too bright at times) I had at the time. Therefore I understand why they have such a good reputation. They remain a refreshing change from my SR-007 from time to time. Even though they're not as detailed or nuanced as the SR-007, I value their airy, spacious sound and more extended highs.
   
   
  Quote: 





mink70 said:


> Huh, disagreement. So maybe there's not much to be gained from an amp upgrade? And spritzer says the 202s are one of the best lambdas, up there with 404LE and Lambda Sigs. Anyone else care to weigh in?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





desiretree said:


> Is it easy to build?


 
   
  I would say that there are a number of challenges.  If you've built solid state DIY before, you may be so used to low voltage solid state that you make mistakes with the high-voltage solid state parts in the DIY T2.  You need special TO-220 insulators, for example, regular mica rectangles or silicone pads will not work, the high voltage will just arc through.  Also some of the parts are hard to obtain, being out of production for a long period of time.  Then too there are COUNTERFEITS of some of these parts being sold, which don't work and worse, which will cause the amplifier to blow up and take $500~$1,000 of hard-to-obtain parts with them. So you'd be wise to run tests on ALL the transistors used in the build to make sure they meet spec.
   
  Also a challenge is the size of the two chassis that must be built. There's no off-the-shelf metal chassis casework that will fit these things, you have to fabricate them or have them special made.  (Two chassis- one for the amp, one for the power supply.)  The main amp circuit board is 16 inches deep by 12 inches wide... an odd, large size.  Heat sinks flank it.
   
  Another complication is the difficulty of testing the finished item- you can't just hook your oscilloscope up to the output, the voltage is too high, it'll just arc to ground in the probe or in the 'scope and there goes $500 or more in hard-to-obtain parts.  You really need to use an active high voltage differential probe, which cost about $500 (or more) used on eBay.
   
  The printed circuit boards are hard to obtain- there is no source for them, unless you can get enough people together to have a batch screened off. (The designs for the boards can be got.)  You could also make them yourself, but they are large and the facilities you'd need would be substantial.
   
  Last but not least is the complexity- there are a lot of parts, and that means a lot of chances to put the wrong resistor in someplace, or a diode in backwards... and then there goes $500 (or more) worth of transistors when you plug the thing in.  With something like a balanced, dual power supply Beta 22 there are probably MORE parts- but if a diode is in wrong or something you're only likely to lose a pair of easily-obtained MOSFETs worth $30.
   
  But it CAN be done.  There are perhaps 15 (?) people who have successfully built them.


----------



## kevin gilmore

17 of my 20 chassis run are complete and running.
  at least 3 more were built with a different chassis and
  are also working. If you get real parts and pay attention
  it usually works right the first time.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





mink70 said:


> Huh, disagreement. So maybe there's not much to be gained from an amp upgrade? And spritzer says the 202s are one of the best lambdas, up there with 404LE and Lambda Sigs. *Anyone else care to weigh in?*


 
*Sure.*
  I really like the 202s driven by the little 252 amp. Just my 2 cents.
  I've tried the 202s with my KGSSHV, at a SPL of 100dB, they begin to distort.
  I'm in a happy place running them at <95 dB on the 252 amp. Clear as a bell.
   
  The KGSSHV really shines with the harder to drive O2s. It also does well with my Koss ESP-950s.
  And yes, 100 dB will kill your hearing quick.
  I'm sure the headbangers will disagree. "Bang your head, metal health will drive you mad!"


----------



## Tilpo

livewire said:


> *Sure.*
> I really like the 202s driven by the little 252 amp. Just my 2 cents.
> I've tried the 202s with my KGSSHV, at a SPL of 100dB, they begin to distort.
> I'm in a happy place running them at <95 dB on the 252 amp. Clear as a bell.
> ...



I would headbang with expensive electrostats on my head. No sir, I prefer leaning back in my rather comfortable chair instead.


----------



## Amarphael

Ha, the SR-007 is the ultimate headbanger's cans didn't you know? You can even bend the metal arcs to squeeze even moar hardcore-ness out of them... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The SR-202, NOT. it's more head-bobbing styled.


----------



## Headdie

SR-X/Mk3 question:
   
  I'd like to fit the Mk3 drivers into a new headphone frame for better comfort. I have a 20 year old pair of DT-990 that could do the job I guess. However, I'm reluctant to scrap them in the operation. A cheap pair of ??? from eBay would be better. A comfy open circumaural one of course... Any idea out there ?
   
  Regards,


----------



## Tilpo

amarphael said:


> Ha, the SR-007 is the ultimate headbanger's cans didn't you know? You can even bend the metal arcs to squeeze even moar hardcore-ness out of them...  The SR-202, NOT. it's more head-bobbing styled.



I tried slight headbanging movements with it just now. It moves back and forth quite a bit. And... it creaks really loudly, but that's not something you'd notice at high listening levels.


----------



## anetode

So, is there any difference in stat amps for us lowly suckers who listen to an avg db in the 70s? I'm amazed at the bass that an 02Mk1 can pull off when blasted, but that's a 1 in a 1000 occurrence.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





mink70 said:


> And spritzer says the 202s are one of the best lambdas, up there with 404LE and Lambda Sigs. Anyone else care to weigh in?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 
   
  I have more than one pair of SR-202s so I suppose I'm also a fan of them... but then again I may be wrong as I like the Lambda Pros (and Lambda Sigs) more than the 404LE.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





headdie said:


> SR-X/Mk3 question:
> 
> I'd like to fit the Mk3 drivers into a new headphone frame for better comfort. I have a 20 year old pair of DT-990 that could do the job I guess. However, I'm reluctant to scrap them in the operation. A cheap pair of ??? from eBay would be better. A comfy open circumaural one of course... Any idea out there ?
> 
> Regards,


 
  Unfortunately I have no idea about the exact models but my friend say that Telefunken, Mainz, Audio-Technica headbands should fit from that era (he is using the latter but doesn't know which one exactly.
   
I managed to fit it fairly well with the stock headband and new pleather pads but I might look for an alternative headband myself, I will let you know if I found one.


----------



## Magick Man

So I ran into a good deal on some 4070s and bought them, it was a spur of the moment/impulse thing. Who has heard them and what do you think?


(My previous question probably got lost in the shuffle, serves me right for putting it at the end of an unrelated post...)


----------



## NamelessPFG

To chime in on the SR-202 discussion, they were good, but not SR-Lambda good, even if my set has rebuilt drivers with thicker (2.5um compared to stock 2um) diaphragms and is obviously not representative of a stock SR-Lambda. There was a bit of harsh grain to the sound by comparison, and vocals also sounded a bit recessed.
   
  Then again, I couldn't use the same amp setups for both due to the Normal/Pro bias difference. The SR-202 was fed by an SRM-212, while I had the SR-Lambda driven by an Onkyo TX-SV515PRO and a SRD-7/SB. It's a difference I wish wasn't there for the sake of isolating variables and all that, but I just didn't have an amp with both Normal and Pro bias jacks.
   
  Sound quality aside, there's the headband/arc design. Simply put, I prefer the original, pre-Nova series headband. The headband sliders don't slip upwards nearly as often when putting the headphones on, the clamping force is lower (feels like they're just resting on your head instead of actually squeezing on), and it doesn't sound nearly as squeaky, either.
   
  That's why I sold off my SR-202 instead. I guess newer isn't always better when it comes to Stax, and for now, I'll just stick to the Normal bias SR-Lambda, even though they're obviously harder to get due to being a discontinued vintage product.
   
  Would I take the SR-202 over every other non-SR-Lambda headphone I've tried, though? Most certainly; it still has many of the desirable Lambda-series characteristics in its presentation, and you could do far worse for headphones in its price range.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> 17 of my 20 chassis run are complete and running.
> at least 3 more were built with a different chassis and
> are also working. If you get real parts and pay attention
> it usually works right the first time.


 
   
  OK  so there are 20 up and running currently.  That's pretty impressive.  I wonder, has any owner built one then found he needed to sell it later?  You know, granny required emergency gluteal liposuction or something and funds were needed...
   
  I think you underestimate the challenge a little, Kevin.  For a patient, experienced builder who takes the time to read through the threads to see where others found pitfalls and solutions, it is something that CAN be done, certainly.  And while there are many here who fit the description of 'experienced builder' there are many more readers here are either first-time builders or folks who built a CMOY type thing, or a couple of other small projects, and while such folks needn't be warned totally AWAY from the project, I think anyone with low or medium levels of electronic construction experience needs to really be prepared for the challenges he will face building this amplifier.


----------



## Tilpo

milosz said:


> OK  so there are 20 up and running currently.  That's pretty impressive.  I wonder, has any owner built one then found he needed to sell it later?  You know, granny required emergency gluteal liposuction or something and funds were needed...
> 
> I think you underestimate the challenge a little, Kevin.  For a patient, experienced builder who takes the time to read through the threads to see where others found pitfalls and solutions, it is something that CAN be done, certainly.  And while there are many here who fit the description of 'experienced builder' there are many more readers here are either first-time builders or folks who built a CMOY type thing, or a couple of other small projects, and while such folks needn't be warned totally AWAY from the project, I think anyone with low or medium levels of electronic construction experience needs to really be prepared for the challenges he will face building this amplifier.



As an inexperienced builder building the Beta22 was already too difficult for me with hindsight. I rushed the soldering job and underestimated the difficulty in properly wiring it without proper experience. As a result I'm still chasing the mistakes I made back in November/December, and I'm not even sure I'll be finishing it in the coming month.

That's bad enough with a Beta22, but imagine the same thing happening with a stat amp. It would be an incredible source of frustration and burn an incredible amount of money and time. 

And besides, how much better is the T2 anyway than other stat builds? I imagine there should be easier projects with less hard to source parts, even though I guess any stat build will still require quite a bit more experience than a simple headphone amplifier.


----------



## Headdie

Hi Padam,
   
  I'm looking for more than new headband and ear cushions.
  I'm looking for a complete pair of open circumaural, into which I could fit the SR-X Mk3 drivers.
   
  Quote: 





padam said:


> Unfortunately I have no idea about the exact models but my friend say that Telefunken, Mainz, Audio-Technica headbands should fit from that era (he is using the latter but doesn't know which one exactly.
> 
> I managed to fit it fairly well with the stock headband and new pleather pads but I might look for an alternative headband myself, I will let you know if I found one.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> As an inexperienced builder building the Beta22 was already too difficult for me with hindsight. I rushed the soldering job and underestimated the difficulty in properly wiring it without proper experience. As a result I'm still chasing the mistakes I made back in November/December, and I'm not even sure I'll be finishing it in the coming month.
> That's bad enough with a Beta22, but imagine the same thing happening with a stat amp. It would be an incredible source of frustration and burn an incredible amount of money and time.
> And besides, how much better is the T2 anyway than other stat builds? I imagine there should be easier projects with less hard to source parts, even though I guess any stat build will still require quite a bit more experience than a simple headphone amplifier.


 
  You should try KGSSHV then.
   
  By the way, my second DIY T2 should be up and running in less than a month.  That probably makes it number 21st.


----------



## graben

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I have more than one pair of SR-202s so I suppose I'm also a fan of them... but then again I may be wrong as I like the Lambda Pros (and Lambda Sigs) more than the 404LE.


 
  The 202 are really great Stax. They are near the top of the Lambdas. I just felt I wish they went a little louder with the 252. That may have however been due to the source I had them paired with at the time.


----------



## mink70

Thanks everyone. I was listening to the 202/252 last night, and I have to say that I'm still in disbelief over how much music these things produce. I haven't had this many goosebumps outside the vinyl/speaker setup (Garrard 301/SME/Shindo/Tannoys). Certainly never with headphones. Considering I got the 2050A used for $375, I'm almost unable to make sense of the value. My previous headphone setup was a Denon 5000+DACport, and the Stax, at less than half the cost, makes that sound like a toy (that's mostly the Denon's fault; the DACport is great). Now I just listen with my eyes closed for hours.
   
  Human nature being what it is, though... I would love a little more oomph. So would a SRM-323 be a noticeable, solid improvement on the 252, or maybe just a bit of a different flavor? (I'm also the owner of a slight hearing imbalance, so the 323s balance feature looks mighty attractive).


----------



## Tilpo

I always thought the 202's were at the bottom of the Lambdas (because of their low price).
I own a pair currently, and I think they are great. Better than my HD650's, which are more expensive if you don't count the amp/energizer.

Does that mean that there is not much point in upgrading to a higher number in the Lambda series -- say the 407?


----------



## Tilpo

I just wrote a review comparing the HD650 with the SR-202. I'm sure you guys know which of the two turned out to be better. :rolleyes:

Since it's my first review, I'd love to hear feedback from some of the more experienced members.


----------



## catscratch

Since you asked for advice right here in the shark tank...

I don't like track-by-track reviews since they don't actually communicate much information to anyone that isn't familiar with the test tracks. Unfortunately, they have become the de facto standard of audio reviewing (maybe precisely because they don't say much). I would rather see a review that talked about sound directly - like Tyll does it. However that carries with it its own challenges, as you need to use audio terminology to describe sound without getting bogged down in audiophile jargon.

Basically, writing a meaningful review is hard.

Otherwise, well written but way too long.


----------



## Tilpo

catscratch said:


> Since you asked for advice right here in the shark tank...
> I don't like track-by-track reviews since they don't actually communicate much information to anyone that isn't familiar with the test tracks. Unfortunately, they have become the de facto standard of audio reviewing (maybe precisely because they don't say much). I would rather see a review that talked about sound directly - like Tyll does it. However that carries with it its own challenges, as you need to use audio terminology to describe sound without getting bogged down in audiophile jargon.
> Basically, writing a meaningful review is hard.
> Otherwise, well written but way too long.



It sure wasn't easy, I've got to admit that. And I still got much too learn.

I personally don't think it's very 'track-by-track' as you describe it. I used the tracks as an example, sure, but after that I tried to describe what I was hearing in a more general sense. Even without knowing the music you should be able to get a really good idea of how they sound, is what I'd think. 

And I'm aware of it being too long. This is intentional, since it's my first review and I never really compared headphones before. Therefore I needed a lot of time and careful analysis to be able to really describe what they sound like. The length is mainly because I used this review as a learning experience for myself, rather than writing it specifically for other people.
Future reviews will be shorter, since I now know more or less what to look for in a pair of headphones.

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## realmassy

Nice review Tilpo!
I had the HD650 for a long time, but when I listened to the 202 I knew my journey was over! Still, HD650s are the only dynamic headphone I would buy again. My only problem with the 202 was the build quality and the way they were creaking. 507s don't share the same issue, and the leather pads are excellent.


----------



## Headdie

Back in time...
   
  Could someone confirm that the SRM-212 tip is 5.5 x 2.1 mm ?
   
  Thank you,
   
  Quote: 





johnny blue said:


> I've just added a bench PS to my collection of gear for powering my SRM-212 (see earlier in this thread for discussions about same), and at the moment I am a bit disappointed.
> 
> The Stax wallwart that comes with the (UK) 2020 system doesn't sound any worse than the bench PS, and is actually better! Not what I was expecting!
> 
> ...


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





magick man said:


> So I ran into a good deal on some 4070s and bought them, it was a spur of the moment/impulse thing. Who has heard them and what do you think?
> (My previous question probably got lost in the shuffle, serves me right for putting it at the end of an unrelated post...)


 

 Oh so that was you. What a score if it's the pair I am thinking of. Case and all stuff with it? Check in as I am sure you will when you get them.


----------



## Magick Man

Yep, case and all. I paid a little extra to get them over-nighted, but it was worth it.  There are a few nicks and scratches, but they're functionally perfect.

I've already posted some initial thoughts in Romy's thread. Yeah, I'm really liking these.


----------



## n3rdling

4070 is a pretty nice headphone, especially for being closed as I'm generally not into closed headphones.  Quite linear sounding, especially in the bass.  Detail not as good as the Omega headphones, but better than most Lambdas.  Soundstage pretty average size, imaging quite good...considerably more precise than Lambdas but not quite at SR007/SR009 territory.  Not a fan of the top end, no air which makes vocals more personal and upfront...an effect I'm not really crazy about that I hear in many closed headphones.  Overall one of the very best closed HPs money can buy, but weren't exactly my cup of tea so I sold them.


----------



## deadlylover

Was going through some old photos, and I found a (rather terrible) photo of the port mod for my 007A, (SZ2-1728).
   
  You'll only have to take off the earpads to be able to access the black mounting platey thing.
   
  In hindsight, I probably should have taken a 'before' shot too, oh well, you'll know what to do when you open up your pair. All you have to do is plug up the two small outer holes, and the two tiny openings in one of the bigger ones.


----------



## Magick Man

n3rdling said:


> 4070 is a pretty nice headphone, especially for being closed as I'm generally not into closed headphones.  Quite linear sounding, especially in the bass.  Detail not as good as the Omega headphones, but better than most Lambdas.  Soundstage pretty average size, imaging quite good...considerably more precise than Lambdas but not quite at SR007/SR009 territory.  Not a fan of the top end, no air which makes vocals more personal and upfront...an effect I'm not really crazy about that I hear in many closed headphones.  Overall one of the very best closed HPs money can buy, but weren't exactly my cup of tea so I sold them.




Hrmm, I'm reaching the point where I want a nice tube amp for my stats, to go along with my SRM-717. I'm looking at the WES, because I'll be damned if I'm going to wait 18 months for a BHSE.


----------



## Elysian

If the used BHSE and WES+SR009 sales are still up, those are a good way to get in if you don't mind used gear.  The LL sounds nice too, and I don't think you're going to miss the lack of tubes if you can pair it up with an SR009.  The LL+SR007 didn't do anything for me.


----------



## Magick Man

I really don't have any interest in getting the 009, I actually prefer the sound of the O2. I looked through the FS section and didn't see an ad for a BHSE, it may have sold already.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Hrmm, I'm reaching the point where I want a nice tube amp for my stats, to go along with my SRM-717. I'm looking at the WES, because I'll be damned if I'm going to wait 18 months for a BHSE.


 
   
  The T1 amps are a nice tube option to start with.  They don't pair particularly well with the 007, but for Lambdas those are fantastic amps.  The BHSE is well worth the wait if you are patient, though I did see one up on audiogon for a nice price recently.  There is also the GES and Aristaeus which should have shorter wait times than the BHSE.  If you are able to DIY, Kevin Gilmore has just finished up the "megatron" amp which is an all tube amp section fed by a modified KGSSHV PSU which he says should perform around the level of the BH/DIYT2.


----------



## Magick Man

n3rdling said:


> The T1 amps are a nice tube option to start with.  They don't pair particularly well with the 007, but for Lambdas those are fantastic amps.  The BHSE is well worth the wait if you are patient, though I did see one up on audiogon for a nice price recently.  There is also the GES and Aristaeus which should have shorter wait times than the BHSE.  If you are able to DIY, Kevin Gilmore has just finished up the "megatron" amp which is an all tube amp section fed by a modified KGSSHV PSU which he says should perform around the level of the BH/DIYT2.




I can do a little DIY, but that's beyond my ability. You say the Woo GES would be a good choice? How does it compare to the WES? That's actually interesting news, since it's within my current budget.


----------



## milosz

Quote:  





> ... I guess any stat build will still require quite a bit more experience than a simple headphone amplifier.


 
   
  Voltages in any electrostatic amp are *lethal*. Keep that in mind. Dead people don't enjoy listening to headphones anywhere near as much as the living do.
   
  This is also more-or-less true for most tube amps designed for dynamic headphones.


----------



## milosz

By the way if you don't want to build, I think you'd be hard pressed to get better value than a used T1. They sound great for all but the hardest to drive like the 007.  The T1 is really a very, very nice amp.  Not one of the uber-amps but a very nice product.  There's other nice Stax tube and solid state amps but a used T1 is probably the best you can do for the money. 
   
  Stax really got it right when they designed the T1.


----------



## Solude

Woo GES, Stax SRM-727ii or B22 w/ WEE for Stax SR-507?


----------



## Tilpo

solude said:


> Woo GES, Stax SRM-727ii or B22 w/ WEE for Stax SR-507?



In your case the Wee is obviously the cheapest, so there's no hurt in trying. You could also get an SRD-7 Mk II. There is one in the classifieds right now, I think.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





solude said:


> Woo GES, Stax SRM-727ii or B22 w/ WEE for Stax SR-507?


 
   
  You should also consider the SRM-323S and 006TS. I don't think the 507 needs the power of the 727.


----------



## Solude

But are either of those competitive with the KGTT?


----------



## Magick Man

I guess I didn't really consider the GES for my O2s because it's so... cheap. I sometimes get caught up in the "it doesn't cost enough to be a top-tier product" hype.  After reading some reviews I can say that it seems I was incorrect in my assumptions. Of course, after getting a second STAX connector, the parts upgrade, and finding better tubes, it isn't quite so inexpensive after all.


----------



## Solude

Or better sounding


----------



## Magick Man

I was mostly just considering the attenuator upgrade and getting the second pro bias connector, unless there's a substantive reason to go with the "audiophile graded" caps. The tubes I'd source on my own because I enjoy doing that kind of stuff.


----------



## Solude

My understanding is the KGTT uses enough feedback that tubes should sound similar assuming they aren't foobar.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





magick man said:


> I guess I didn't really consider the GES for my O2s because it's so... cheap. I sometimes get caught up in the "it doesn't cost enough to be a top-tier product" hype.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I quite enjoy my GES with my SR007, even without fancy stuff in the signal path.  The sound doesn't have the same holographic quality you'd have with a BH, but it's still way better than what I've heard from dynamics in a similar price range (GES+SR007).  To my ears, the GES improved quite a bit when I put in some Mullard 12AX7 reissues and NOS Sylvania 6S4As over the stock tubes.  It made the sound more impactful and helped the bass a bit.  I suspect Gold Lions would be even better, but I was budgeting my GES improvements, having put down a BHSE deposit.
   
  I may end up selling my GES with all the extra 12AX7 and 6S4A tubes I've collected along the way once I get my BHSE, but am kind of tempted to hold onto it.  It's a wonderful amp with great build quality, very low noise, and is a Kevin Gilmore design!  I honestly think it doesn't get recognition in 2011-12 simply because it's been around for awhile and old = boring in the audio world.  A lot of people liken the GES to the Aristaeus, and that can't be a bad thing.
   
  http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/gilmore_prj.htm
  Quote: 





> How do these amps sound? Exactly what you would expect from an all-triode tube amp. The high end is liquid and sweet. No harshness of any kind, especially when compared with the Sennheiser unit. Clipping (you have to be listening quite loud) is virtually undetectable, whereas the Sennheiser unit overloads (lights the red light) and sounds crackly. I can literally listen for 4 hours at a time - something I could not do without extreme fatigue with any of the other amps.
> 
> The Stax SRM-T1S is actually a really good unit, but it uses 6FQ7's which really cannot withstand the 600 volts. So as it gets louder and louder, the sound becomes more restricted, and because of the lower bias power, as the sound becomes louder the amount of high-frequency energy slowly disappears. I have heard of others complaining about this also. If you are in search of absolute excellence, the all-triode amps described here are the best electrostatic headphone amplifiers currently available, anywhere in the world.


----------



## Solude

I think what killed the KGTT was Kevin when he said...
   
  "[size=small]This solid state amp is so much better than my tube amp that I no longer listen to it. I'm not a solid state snob; it's just plain better. The people who have listened to this amplifier (some of whom were giants in the industry in their day) love it, much more than my tube amp. I love it too. I can't stop listening to it. The tube amp has moved into a secondary position in my listening rack."[/size]
   
  [size=small]And that was when HeadAmp still sold the KGSS for $1500 [/size]


----------



## Solude

But what it doesn't say is that the KGTT is worse than the 727 or 007t which is why I wonder... Now that the KGSS isn't sold is the KGTT back to being top dog at ~$1500?


----------



## kevin gilmore

things change over the years.
   
  For $1500 the ges built by woo audio is a bargain considering the prices of electrostatic amplifiers lately.
  Built nice too.
   
  For DIY you can do a kgsshv, or the new balanced audio electrostatic amplifier (which has 8 x el34's) as the outputs.
  Both should be under $1k in parts.
   
  the bae is a dc coupled input, dc coupled output with el34's in place of the 6s4's, constant current sources
  and 900 volts of power supply. Its way good.  Also dumps 200 watts of heat into your listening area.
  Think of it as a ges on steroids.
   
  blubliss did a diy hev90, and he really likes that.
   
  YMMV


----------



## Solude

Now if only every PCB I tried to solder didn't light on fire


----------



## Magick Man

elysian said:


> I quite enjoy my GES with my SR007, even without fancy stuff in the signal path.  The sound doesn't have the same holographic quality you'd have with a BH, but it's still way better than what I've heard from dynamics in a similar price range (GES+SR007).  To my ears, the GES improved quite a bit when I put in some Mullard 12AX7 reissues and NOS Sylvania 6S4As over the stock tubes.  It made the sound more impactful and helped the bass a bit.  I suspect Gold Lions would be even better, but I was budgeting my GES improvements, having put down a BHSE deposit.
> 
> I may end up selling my GES with all the extra 12AX7 and 6S4A tubes I've collected along the way once I get my BHSE, but am kind of tempted to hold onto it.  It's a wonderful amp with great build quality, very low noise, and is a Kevin Gilmore design!  I honestly think it doesn't get recognition in 2011-12 simply because it's been around for awhile and old = boring in the audio world.  A lot of people liken the GES to the Aristaeus, and that can't be a bad thing.
> 
> http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/gilmore_prj.htm




Thanks, that sounds great. Like I said before, waiting 2 years isn't an option, I'm not that patient. I fired off an email to Woo to get a quote on a custom build with two pro bias jacks. I already have a NOS quad of space grade Voskhod 12AX7s that would be perfect for this.


----------



## Solude

2 years isn't reality though.  If you got on the BHSE list today you'd likely have an amp by the end of July.  That and there is one up on the For Sale right now if you want to wait 0 days


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





solude said:


> If you got on the BHSE list today you'd likely have an amp by the end of July.


 
   
  lol, I hope you're not serious.


----------



## forbigger

Justin seems putting his production of bhse into high gear. But 1 months of lead time is definitely wishful thinking


----------



## Solude

Quite, not all BHSE in the current build cycle have been spoken for.  Now if you had asked this question in January... answer would be the same


----------



## Solude

And here is the one up for grabs... http://www.head-fi.org/t/596562/blue-hawaii-se-rk50-w-brown-base-nos-mullard-el34 $5700 all in.


----------



## Draygonn

solude said:


> Quite, not all BHSE in the current build cycle have been spoken for.


The 3rd run has around 10 in line.


----------



## catscratch

I don't know much about patience, but comparing even a regular previous version BH to the 717, it's night and day. The overall character of the amp is similar - straight wire with gain with maybe a hint of warmth - but the BH takes it to a whole new level. It's so much more open and transparent, lively and engaging. It's silly to apply the "blanket over speaker" analogy to the O2, but it's kinda like that. Also the 717 audibly runs out of power at higher volumes, at least with the O2.

I'd definitely wait for a BHSE. No experience with the WES though, so who knows. And I still like the 717 quite a bit, for the price it's an amazing bargain all things considered.


----------



## Elysian

Just place the BHSE order, forget you did it, and get yourself a nice Stax, HiFiman, or Audeze headphone to listen to in the meantime.  I lucked in late into the ordering process and it'll probably be a total 9-10 months when all is done.
   
  It's unlikely you'll suddenly stop enjoying audio 1-2 years from now, and knowing that you have the cream of the crop waiting for you is a good way to stop impulse buys and upgraditis.  You may even save money in the long-run!


----------



## spritzer

It's been a while since I've heard a stock version of the KGTT but I did like it a lot.  I'm also quite fond of my recent amp which uses the same basic circuit but with dirt cheap TV tubes.  It's warm and syrupy with the 007 and the bass response is a bit slow and bloated but it makes for a nice change from the super clean sound of the KGSSHV.


----------



## J-Pak

Being an owner I am probably biased, but I think the Headamp KGSS is a terrific value. Even at $2300 or whatever Justin was building them at towards the end of its lifespan, that was a hella good deal.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





draygonn said:


> The 3rd run has around 10 in line.


 
   
  about right.  the ones that i have started final assembly on today, were ordered in November, so that is 8 months.  and the ones that will be in the end-of-July build would have been from as late as February, so that is 5-6 months.  i've already been working on preparing the 3rd run.


----------



## mink70

Can anyone comment on the 323 vs. the 252 with Lambdas? (I have the 252 original.) Is it much of an upgrade?


----------



## bralk

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> I do not have experience with many different amps, but remember when I upgraded from my SRM-T1 to a SRM-717 that I actually found the T1 somewhat better with the SR-202.
> To my ears, the SR-202 are quite neutral: no part of the frequency spectrum stands out and the amount of bass and highs are perfect for my taste. There's certainly no etch or any other annoying emphasis, which was a relief compared to the Lambda Signature (etch) and HE60 (too bright at times) I had at the time. Therefore I understand why they have such a good reputation. They remain a refreshing change from my SR-007 from time to time. Even though they're not as detailed or nuanced as the SR-007, I value their airy, spacious sound and more extended highs.


 

 I totally agree with you on this. SR - 202 upgraded with leather ear pads are extremely good value for money. I use them at the office with the lowly srm-212 amp and sometimes at home with the srm-007t with a slight improvement in SQ.
   
  cheers
   
  Tom


----------



## milosz

Is there any risk using Lambda Pro Signature  on an electrostatic headphone amp with 600 volt bias?  How about the SR-007 on an amp with 600 volt bias?
   
  It's only 20 volts higher than the Stax stuff, so I'm guessing doing this won't cause damage.  But I thought I'd throw it out there in case I was wrong about that.
   
  I seem to remember that some DIY amps featured adjustable bias and some one was suggesting using  a slightly higher bias than 580 VDC on Stax headphones, but maybe that's not a memory but just my mind playing tricks on me. I'm pretty old and stuff like that happens to me.


----------



## Magick Man

solude said:


> And here is the one up for grabs... http://www.head-fi.org/t/596562/blue-hawaii-se-rk50-w-brown-base-nos-mullard-el34 $5700 all in.




That's not too bad, but right now I'm on the trail of a WES at a sizable amount off retail. I hope to know more by tomorrow.


----------



## chinsettawong

milosz said:


> Is there any risk using Lambda Pro Signature  on an electrostatic headphone amp with 600 volt bias?  How about the SR-007 on an amp with 600 volt bias?
> 
> It's only 20 volts higher than the Stax stuff, so I'm guessing doing this won't cause damage.  But I thought I'd throw it out there in case I was wrong about that.
> 
> I seem to remember that some DIY amps featured adjustable bias and some one was suggesting using  a slightly higher bias than 580 VDC on Stax headphones, but maybe that's not a memory but just my mind playing tricks on me. I'm pretty old and stuff like that happens to me.





I'm sure that there is no problem with just 20 extra volts. Go for it!


----------



## wink

I am just finishing off a KGSS, When I tested the bias voltage it was 582V.
  With a O2MKI and HE60 connected, the voltage dropped to 560V
  Testing was done with a 40KV probe with a resistance of 1 Gigohm.(1000 Megohms.)


----------



## kevin gilmore

Leave it charge for a day and measure again.  The he60's use more current than the o2's


----------



## spritzer

600V bias on any of the modern Stax sets will cause no long term damage and the SR-007 is just fine at 800V.  The Lambdas don't like this though...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  The KGSS is still brilliant and at 2300$ it was a steal.  The KGSSHV is better but it's mostly just different in tone due to the different parts used, slightly drier and with more bass presence. 
   
  While I'm on the subject, a Headamp KGSS passed through here a while ago as I swapped the transformer for a new 230V one for a friend.  What amazed me is just how well it was aging as this one was at least 6-7 years old and I didn't need to adjust anything.  Both offset and balance on both channels was within spec even following my own strict standards.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> 600V bias on any of the modern Stax sets will cause no long term damage and the SR-007 is just fine at 800V.  The Lambdas don't like this though...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yeah Justin made them extremely well. And the amp is very transparent to my DAC, phono-stage and cartridge swaps.


----------



## CDPlayer

Hello everyone,
   
  Just pulled a trigger on a Stax SR-007A with SRM-007TA combo, which will be my first full size Stax set (I have had a SRS-001 mk2 for a while, along with a bunch of various dynamic headphones and in-ears).
   
  I intend to feed it via XLR connections out of a Cambridge Audio DAC Macgic Plus, connected via USB to an Apple laptop playing lossless audio files.
   
  As I bought it sight unseen over the Internet, I would much appreciate anything esteemed audience here thinks I may need to be aware of in preparation for its arrival. 
   
  Links to posts to read would be appreciated as much as personal advice!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Just pulled a trigger on a Stax SR-007A with SRM-007TA combo, which will be my first full size Stax set (I have had a SRS-001 mk2 for a while, along with a bunch of various dynamic headphones and in-ears).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Cool!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  SRM-007TA is pretty nice, I've heard.  And many folks love the SR-007A


----------



## The Monkey

I had the 007 mk2 and the 007tii for a little bit.  The combo sounded good.  But overall, I felt like the 007tii had a slightly hollow sound with the 007 mk2, which disappeared with the KGSS.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> I had the 007 mk2 and the 007tii for a little bit.  The combo sounded good.  But overall, I felt like the 007tii had a slightly hollow sound with the 007 mk2, which disappeared with the KGSS.


 
   
  Thanks for the info. I'll take it one step at a time - I know Kevin's amps are great, but I guess it will have to wait for a little bit more.


----------



## mink70

There's a SRM-1/Mk.2 (C version) that I have a chance to pick up locally, and the seller claims it's universal voltage. But he also says that the unit was refurbished by Stax in Japan for the previous owner. And there's a sticker on the back that says "AC 100v ONLY." Photo attached. Is it safe to assume the factory, during refurbishing, set the voltage to 100v internally? Is there an easy way to tell the unit's actual voltage?


----------



## Vicks7

My SR 009s arrived yesterday together with a Woo Audio GES. I only had time to listen for an hour yesterday but I was very impressed with the combination. The 009s are very comfortable for a large headphone and I expect that long listening sessions will not be a problem. More impressions to follow.


----------



## Michgelsen

You can see the block with the white arrow on it: that's the voltage conversion switch. Right now it points towards 117V, which means that it's set for 117V. I personally do not assume that this voltage selector would be disabled on purpose by Stax. That would not make sense to me.
   
  The sticker has probably been there from the start, meaning that the amp was originally sold in Japan.
   
  Quote: 





mink70 said:


> There's a SRM-1/Mk.2 (C version) that I have a chance to pick up locally, and the seller claims it's universal voltage. But he also says that the unit was refurbished by Stax in Japan for the previous owner. And there's a sticker on the back that says "AC 100v ONLY." Photo attached. Is it safe to assume the factory, during refurbishing, set the voltage to 100v internally? Is there an easy way to tell the unit's actual voltage?


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





vicks7 said:


> My SR 009s arrived yesterday together with a Woo Audio GES. I only had time to listen for an hour yesterday but I was very impressed with the combination. The 009s are very comfortable for a large headphone and I expect that long listening sessions will not be a problem. More impressions to follow.


 
  and a change of avatar?


----------



## mink70

Thanks. Is there a definitive way to ascertain the AC voltage, so I don't damage the unit?
   
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> You can see the block with the white arrow on it: that's the voltage conversion switch. Right now it points towards 117V, which means that it's set for 117V. I personally do not assume that this voltage selector would be disabled on purpose by Stax. That would not make sense to me.
> 
> The sticker has probably been there from the start, meaning that the amp was originally sold in Japan.


----------



## kevin gilmore

measure the impedance at the power cord, turn the power switch on.
  measure all 4 positions, 100v,120v,200v,240v
  if any of them are open circuit, you have a modified transformer
  and you don't want that.


----------



## spritzer

I've seen plenty of amps in Japan with that setup.  If the amp was truly a 100V only amp then it would never have shipped with the plug for the voltage adapter and had a plastic plate covering it.


----------



## xzobinx

Has anyone compared the T1 and 323A with sr 407 ? 
  I wonder which one would give better synergy.


----------



## mink70

Thank you all!
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've seen plenty of amps in Japan with that setup.  If the amp was truly a 100V only amp then it would never have shipped with the plug for the voltage adapter and had a plastic plate covering it.


----------



## mink70

So, provided that it seems to be an adjustable voltage model, is there any sense in picking up a SRM-1/mk.II—this is the final C-series PP model that's reputedly been recently refurbished by Stax—as an upgrade to my 252? Or hold out for something like the 323S? My budget is rather limited, and the price being offered on the SRM-1 PP is $550. Thanks again for your input.


----------



## Elysian

Could you guys recommend an affordable and reliable non-Omega headphone to pair with the GES?  I think I'm going to downgrade the GES to a 'lesser' Stax rig once the BHSE comes in.  All the talk of 507 headband issues kind of scared me off.  Something without headband or foam issues would be nice.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Could you guys recommend an affordable and reliable non-Omega headphone to pair with the GES?  I think I'm going to downgrade the GES to a 'lesser' Stax rig once the BHSE comes in.  All the talk of 507 headband issues kind of scared me off.  Something without headband or foam issues would be nice.


 
   
  I havent heard the GES but I can say any and all of the lambdas are great (and sound different to the SR-007s)
   
  But if you really want _affordable _you could try the SR-003s. Some people find them uncomfortable but I dont


----------



## Elysian

Thanks   I'll probably shop around in the $300-600 range and see what I can find.  Is there a particular Lambda model which doesn't have the foam deterioration or headband issues, or am I better off just waiting for a good used 507 deal, and replacing it with a stock Lambda headband?
   
  The last Lambda I heard was on Frank Cooter's rig at the meet and it was one of the best things I heard there, though I might also have been a bit awed at his chassis.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks   I'll probably shop around in the $300-600 range and see what I can find.  Is there a particular Lambda model which doesn't have the foam deterioration or headband issues, or am I better off just waiting for a good used 507 deal, and replacing it with a stock Lambda headband?
> 
> The last Lambda I heard was on Frank Cooter's rig at the meet and it was one of the best things I heard there, though I might also have been a bit awed at his chassis.


 
   
  Nearly every lambda falls into the price range <$600!
   
  I'm not sure which lambda Frank has/had and for your price range I'd recommend the lambda sig - my favourite lambda


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Nearly every lambda falls into the price range <$600!
> 
> I'm not sure which lambda Frank has/had and for your price range I'd recommend the lambda sig - my favourite lambda


 
  I have  Lambda Signatures and I  really like them, too.  I had a 'plain' Lambda and I sold that. (note, all these are "pro" version Lambdas, 580 volt bias)
   
  My Lambda Signatures came along with a T1. The headband and earpads needed replacing, which I did.  Was a great purchase, very happy with both pieces. Got 'em off Audiogon as I recall.


----------



## n3rdling

Also a fan of the older Lambdas.  I ended up settling with the SR Lambda and SR Lambda Signature.  The LNS is pretty nice as well.


----------



## Elysian

Awesome, thanks for the recommendations guys.  Looks like I'll start looking around for a Lambda Signature.  What's the SQ difference between the Signature and the Nova Signature?  I'm reading that the Signature was released in 1987 and the Nova Signature on 1994, so a newer unit would be a bit nicer.  I would have figured people would love their 507s, but they seem to pop up used fairly frequently.


----------



## MuppetFace

Need a bit of advice from the mafia.
   
  I've got a pair of Sigma Pros that developed a channel imbalance last year. I also have a pair of SR-404s I never use, so I'd like to transplant the drivers into the Sigma housing. Would it be best to send them into Stax to do it, or to try and find someone on the forums to do it?


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Thanks   I'll probably shop around in the $300-600 range and see what I can find.  Is there a particular Lambda model which doesn't have the foam deterioration or headband issues, or am I better off just waiting for a good used 507 deal, and replacing it with a stock Lambda headband?
> 
> The last Lambda I heard was on Frank Cooter's rig at the meet and it was one of the best things I heard there, though I might also have been a bit awed at his chassis.


 
  I would say get a 507 my fav lambda.


----------



## Tilpo

muppetface said:


> Need a bit of advice from the mafia.
> 
> I've got a pair of Sigma Pros that developed a channel imbalance last year. I also have a pair of SR-404s I never use, so I'd like to transplant the drivers into the Sigma housing. Would it be best to send them into Stax to do it, or to try and find someone on the forums to do it?



Just out of curiosity -- why don't you use the SR-404's anymore?


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





tilpo said:


> Just out of curiosity -- why don't you use the SR-404's anymore?


 
   
  I've got the SR-404LE and SR-507 now, both of which are superior in my opinion. I would have sold the SR-404, but I swiped the headband to replace another set's, and plus I've been saving the drivers for just such an occasion (transplanting into the Sigma).
   
  Now that I think of it, I'm rather curious as to what a Sigma 407 or Sigma 507 would sound like (using the newer drivers).


----------



## Vicks7

Elysian 

I would be very interested to hear your thoughts once you have received the BHSE and the differences between this and the GES as I have the GES and the 009s


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I would say get a 507 my fav lambda.


 
   
  Yeah, I think I will probably hold out for a well-priced 507 or Nova Signature at the rate things are going.  Even the 202 impressed me with the right signal chain.  The Stax continually amaze me with how elastic the signature is with what you're feeding it.
   
  Quote: 





vicks7 said:


> Elysian
> I would be very interested to hear your thoughts once you have received the BHSE and the differences between this and the GES as I have the GES and the 009s


 
   
  I'd be happy to post some impressions once the BHSE comes in.  I rerolled my GES with reissue Mullard 12AX7 and NOS Sylvania 6S4As which helped with the low-end by tightening the focus in the low-end and adding a bit more forwardness to the image.  It wasn't a night-and-day difference, though, and I had to put in a DHT preamp to give more depth.
   
  I've got a friend with the SR009s, and we'll probably end up comparing the difference between GES vs BHSE with both the SR007A and SR009.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Awesome, thanks for the recommendations guys.  Looks like I'll start looking around for a Lambda Signature.  What's the SQ difference between the Signature and the Nova Signature?  I'm reading that the Signature was released in 1987 and the Nova Signature on 1994, so a newer unit would be a bit nicer.  I would have figured people would love their 507s, but they seem to pop up used fairly frequently.


 
   
  LNS is probably the most neutral Lambda, a bit soft sounding.  Lambda Sig is more energetic and super detailed.
   
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> I've got the SR-404LE and SR-507 now, both of which are superior in my opinion. I would have sold the SR-404, but I swiped the headband to replace another set's, and plus I've been saving the drivers for just such an occasion (transplanting into the Sigma).
> 
> Now that I think of it, I'm rather curious as to what a Sigma 407 or Sigma 507 would sound like (using the newer drivers).


 
   
  The new series x07 Lambdas can't be mounted into the Sigmas unfortunately.


----------



## wink

Out of my LNS and 404LE, I like the 404LE best.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> I've got a pair of Sigma Pros that developed a channel imbalance last year. I also have a pair of SR-404s I never use, so I'd like to transplant the drivers into the Sigma housing. Would it be best to send them into Stax to do it, or to try and find someone on the forums to do it?


 
  Send a pm to John Buchanan.


----------



## jjinh

Am I the only one that's not a big fan of the 404LE? I think it sounds a bit 'flabby' and not as 'airy' as the old lambdas...


----------



## wink

Maybe a KGSS will fix that.....


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Need a bit of advice from the mafia.
> 
> I've got a pair of Sigma Pros that developed a channel imbalance last year. I also have a pair of SR-404s I never use, so I'd like to transplant the drivers into the Sigma housing. Would it be best to send them into Stax to do it, or to try and find someone on the forums to do it?


 
  Mark, from high end workshop did a great job on my Sigma 404; he did say it was a challenge and I am not sure he would be willing to do it again. Ask him.
  http://www.highendworkshop.co.uk/


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





wink said:


> Maybe a KGSS will fix that.....


 
   
   
  Hmmm, I know the SR007s and Sigmas need more_ POWER_ but the lambdas too??


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Hmmm, I know the SR007s and Sigmas need more_ POWER_ but the lambdas too??


 
   
  Not more, but better... maybe. Nothing that a TB KGSS can’t fix.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Nothing that a TB KGSS can’t fix.


 
  You must mean the KGSSBV


----------



## charliex

After close to 4 years on Head-Fi I finally received a pair of Stax SR-007 Omega 2 Mk1 original and mint headphones.....
  .....and all I can say at the moment is WOW!! - it IS true what they say - I can't talk now as I'm in aural heaven at the moment
  and will more than likely stay up until the sun rises . . . again WOW!


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





wink said:


> You must mean the KGSSBV


 
  TBKGSSBV


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





charliex said:


> After close to 4 years on Head-Fi I finally received a pair of Stax SR-007 Omega 2 Mk1 original and mint headphones.....
> .....and all I can say at the moment is WOW!! - it IS true what they say - I can't talk now as I'm in aural heaven at the moment
> and will more than likely stay up until the sun rises . . . again WOW!


 
   
  Another convert...


----------



## wink

And another haemhoraging wallet.


----------



## n3rdling

Charliex isn't a recent convert, he's had a bunch of electrostats for a while


----------



## spekkio

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Charliex isn't a recent convert, he's had a bunch of electrostats for a while


 
  Though the last time I saw him, he seemed to prefer the HE60s...


----------



## John Buchanan

Re: Sigma/404 conversion
  Tats at Yamasinc/Accutech (or whatever they now call themselves) will do a driver swap, but they don't give a warranty on their work with owner supplied drivers. They seem to have done a good job with mine - I had the 404 driver and cable implanted into the Sigma frame. An exchange of owner supplied drivers wasn't terribly expensive, from memory.
  Birgir has mentioned many times that an X07 implant into a Sigma frame is practically impossible without removing the drivers from their compression frame (unique to the X07 series) and gluing them together ala the previous lambdas. The frame will not fit into the Sigma shell, so has to be dispensed with. Gluing the parts of the X07 series drivers together has a high probability of destroying them.


----------



## J-Pak

Speaking of Sigmas, would anyone mind posting close up pictures of how the internal dampening material is arranged? The stuff in my pair has moved around.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Re: Sigma/404 conversion
> Tats at Yamasinc/Accutech (or whatever they now call themselves) will do a driver swap, but they don't give a warranty on their work with owner supplied drivers. They seem to have done a good job with mine - I had the 404 driver and cable implanted into the Sigma frame. An exchange of owner supplied drivers wasn't terribly expensive, from memory.
> Birgir has mentioned many times that an X07 implant into a Sigma frame is practically impossible without removing the drivers from their compression frame (unique to the X07 series) and gluing them together ala the previous lambdas. The frame will not fit into the Sigma shell, so has to be dispensed with. Gluing the parts of the X07 series drivers together has a high probability of destroying them.


 
   
  Thanks for the info.
   
  I heard back from Accutech that they no longer offer the 404 driver swap service. They said they didn't have any more of the 404 drivers available, and even if I gave them mine from the set I mentioned they feel the failure rate is too high, so they basically said no. Maybe if I pressed them about it they'd reluctantly do it. However....

 On the plus side, I plugged my Sigma Pros back in after several months of disuse... and to my surprise, no more perceptible channel imbalance. ...Huh.


----------



## gilency

Yeah, the Sigma 404 is be becoming harder and harder to obtain.
Mine looks brand new after replacing the headband, pads and frame.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Could you guys recommend an affordable and reliable non-Omega headphone to pair with the GES?  I think I'm going to downgrade the GES to a 'lesser' Stax rig once the BHSE comes in.  All the talk of 507 headband issues kind of scared me off.  Something without headband or foam issues would be nice.


 
   
  Lambda Nova Signature, SR-Lambda, or SR-404LE.  I think they all sound better than SR-507.  Next up would be ESP-950 but I've read reports that they get dust in them easily and squeal.  My HE-60 were more bass lite with GES than my WES, KGSS or KGBH.


----------



## Elysian

Thanks!  The Lambda Nova Signature (and Lambda Signature) seems like the most attraction option right now due to consensus, since I don't know anyone local who collects Lambdas.  I'll keep an eye out for a LNS if I keep the GES once the BHSE comes in.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> I heard back from Accutech that they no longer offer the 404 driver swap service. They said they didn't have any more of the 404 drivers available, and even if I gave them mine from the set I mentioned they feel the failure rate is too high, so they basically said no. Maybe if I pressed them about it they'd reluctantly do it. However....
> 
> On the plus side, I plugged my Sigma Pros back in after several months of disuse... and to my surprise, no more perceptible channel imbalance. ...Huh.


 
  I don't care what anybody says, those Sigma Pros are mighty good phones - in my opinion at least on a par with the Sigma/404 (I have both and a Lambda Nova Signature)
  Accutech did a new 404 driver/cable implant in mine. I thought I had trouble with the drivers, but there was a problem with extreme humidity from evaporative air conditioning + humid weather over here. Channel imbalance disappeared when the evap a/c was left off and the phones dried out.


----------



## pkshan

507 has better bass & highs than lambda signature, 
  The drums, bass guitars, brasses sound better on 507 
   
  Lambda signature has the magical, lush, liquid mids,
  better in violins woodwinds,vocals
   
  it depends what kind of music you listen to
   
  507 needs 700-1000 hours to break in, before that, the mids may sound cold & harsh


----------



## schorsch

Sigmas ar really phantastic headphones who have their own magic and their own problems )
   
  I don't mind he problems because the magic is ..... )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> I heard back from Accutech that they no longer offer the 404 driver swap service. They said they didn't have any more of the 404 drivers available, and even if I gave them mine from the set I mentioned they feel the failure rate is too high, so they basically said no. Maybe if I pressed them about it they'd reluctantly do it. However....
> 
> On the plus side, I plugged my Sigma Pros back in after several months of disuse... and to my surprise, no more perceptible channel imbalance. ...Huh.


 
   
  They are hesitant to do the driver swap since it's a bit more more dangerous than on previous Stax drivers.  The contacts for the newer drivers are on a small PCB at the bottom which is single sided.  This is fine in a Lambda but in a Sigma the drivers are reversed which makes assembly a pain.  Insulation also becomes a problem as they could arc into the headphone frame.  The solution is to remove the metal cover and mount it on the other side of the drivers.  This isn't easy to do and the risk of the drivers splitting open is rather high. 
   
  90% of the time imbalance is a temporary issue and will fix it self once the offending charge dissipates.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They are hesitant to do the driver swap since it's a bit more more dangerous than on previous Stax drivers.  The contacts for the newer drivers are on a small PCB at the bottom which is single sided.  This is fine in a Lambda but in a Sigma the drivers are reversed which makes assembly a pain.  Insulation also becomes a problem as they could arc into the headphone frame.  The solution is to remove the metal cover and mount it on the other side of the drivers.  This isn't easy to do and the risk of the drivers splitting open is rather high.
> 
> 90% of the time imbalance is a temporary issue and will fix it self once the offending charge dissipates.


 
   
  Darn didn't know it was that complicated, I might not go through with it in that case. I feel confident in my skills with a scalpel (denuded 2 DL-103 cartridges), but this might be beyond me


----------



## anetode

Just got the pre-SZ 007 MK1 back from Yama's after they replaced everything but the cups/drivers. The difference from the new headband/pads is impressive, a proper seal cut off the bass flab and tightened things up nicely. Even the highs are coming through better, I'm getting a greater headstage than I recall these having.

Prior to this mini-refurb I thought the 009 easily bested the 007 but now it's a closer fight.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Just got the pre-SZ 007 MK1 back from Yama's after they replaced everything but the cups/drivers. The difference from the new headband/pads is impressive, a proper seal cut off the bass flab and tightened things up nicely. Even the highs are coming through better, I'm getting a greater headstage than I recall these having.
> Prior to this mini-refurb I thought the 009 easily bested the 007 but now it's a closer fight.


 
   
  If you don't mind my asking, how much did that cost, and how long did it take?


----------



## anetode

Retail for the parts, reasonable rate for the labor and less than two weeks turnaround.


----------



## milosz

GAS Ampzilla with jacks for electrostatic headphones?
   
  A GAS  Ampzilla II is for sale on eBay, the description says "[size=small]This is the model with the Electrostatic headphone jack."[/size]
   
[size=small]????[/size]
   
[size=small]I have looked around a little on the Internets, but can't find any reference to this "Electrostatic headphone jack" -  anybody know anything about this?[/size]
   
[size=small]Amp would be like lat 1970's vintage, so what kind of bias - low bias, 230 volts,  I would guess?  Stax jacks?  Koss ESP-9?[/size]


----------



## milosz

PLASMA headphones?
   
  Apparently there were, at one time, either a prototype or production PLASMA CELL headphones- think Ionovac tweeter but full range right into your ear.
   
  They had high voltage circuits (I suppose including the high voltage RF plasma drive) right in the earcup.
   
  See http://membres.multimania.fr/plasmapropulsion/Industrial_issues/Plasmasonic.htm
   
  Has anyone here ever seen / heard these?


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





milosz said:


> PLASMA headphones?
> 
> Apparently there were, at one time, either a prototype or production PLASMA CELL headphones- think Ionovac tweeter but full range right into your ear.
> 
> ...


 
  Yeah, for a while, I was trying to make a pair of my own.  Not of this design, but similar.  Anyway, I never really finished it.  All the parts got ordered and everything and designs were there, just when it came to assembling...  Sigh.  Life is making me sad now...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Darn didn't know it was that complicated, I might not go through with it in that case. I feel confident in my skills with a scalpel (denuded 2 DL-103 cartridges), but this might be beyond me


 
   
  A very sharp knife and steady hands are all you need so you should be fine.  The metal grill is held in place with the same adhesive pads Stax use to secure the drivers to the baffle so they are a bit easier to work with than the polyurethane used in the drivers.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





linuxid10t said:


> Yeah, for a while, I was trying to make a pair of my own.  Not of this design, but similar.  Anyway, I never really finished it.  All the parts got ordered and everything and designs were there, just when it came to assembling...  Sigh.  Life is making me sad now...


 
  I get that way too, I've got projects to build...all the parts are here, I have the time, but.... I get an attack of the "why bother?" syndrome and go do something else. Maybe I need my meds adjusted.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I get that way too, I've got projects to build...all the parts are here, I have the time, but.... I get an attack of the "why bother?" syndrome and go do something else. Maybe I need my meds adjusted.


 
  That is my situation to the letter.


----------



## MuppetFace

Can anyone in the mafia tell me about the SR-Lambda Spirit?
   

   
  From what I can tell, it's a Japan-only version of the Lambdra Pro Classic? I haven't actually listened to the Pro Classic, so any comments on its sound signature relative to other Lambdas would be greatly appreciated. There's no info on Wikiphonia about it.


----------



## arnaud

From Stax website ( http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/History.html ), it was released a bit before the Lamdba Nova series and probably entry level given the energizer packaged together: http://www.stax.co.jp/OLD/Photo/SPIRIT.jpg


----------



## spritzer

It's a slightly cheaper Lambda Pro so same drivers but minus the mineral wool damping.  It's been too long since I've had a set here but I can't recall anything bad about them.


----------



## thinker

Malvalve -this is interesting
   



  head amp one
  full tube headphone amplifier
  full balanced
  for electrostatic headphones


----------



## cat6man

well, my willpower succumbed and instead of waiting until the end of the year as planned, the 10% off everything sale at elusive disc forced my fingers to hit the enter key..........and then it was done, i'd ordered an 009........ even though the web page said it was out of stock, but what the heck, if they don't charge it to my credit card until it is back in stock and they can ship, that's ok.
   
  imagine my surprise when the 009 was delivered the next day (tuesday) after ordering them monday afternoon (with next day delivery option)................wow, do these sound sweet with the BHSE!  in my mind, i had thought of comparing my current 404LE with the 009 and carefully identifying the gains of one vs. the other, but i can't go back when listening to the detail on the 009s is so smile-inducing.  i love the 404LE but the 009 are just in a different universe.
   
  my wallet is now officially a uni-directional receptacle for at least the rest of the year (i.e. i can sell off old stuff and put money in but no more money going out for audio expenditures this year.............and this time i mean it, really i do!!!!)


----------



## vinyllp33

You are now all set!

Congrats on the purchase, I'm quite sure your BHSE loves its new companion.

Cheers


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> well, my willpower succumbed and instead of waiting until the end of the year as planned, the 10% off everything sale at elusive disc forced my fingers to hit the enter key..........and then it was done, i'd ordered an 009........ even though the web page said it was out of stock, but what the heck, if they don't charge it to my credit card until it is back in stock and they can ship, that's ok.
> 
> imagine my surprise when the 009 was delivered the next day (tuesday) after ordering them monday afternoon (with next day delivery option)................wow, do these sound sweet with the BHSE!  in my mind, i had thought of comparing my current 404LE with the 009 and carefully identifying the gains of one vs. the other, but i can't go back when listening to the detail on the 009s is so smile-inducing.  i love the 404LE but the 009 are just in a different universe.
> 
> my wallet is now officially a uni-directional receptacle for at least the rest of the year (i.e. i can sell off old stuff and put money in but no more money going out for audio expenditures this year.............and this time i mean it, really i do!!!!)


 
  And I thought the Lambda Pros I have been listening to had smile-inducing detail...


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> well, my willpower succumbed and instead of waiting until the end of the year as planned, the 10% off everything sale at elusive disc forced my fingers to hit the enter key..........and then it was done, i'd ordered an 009........ even though the web page said it was out of stock, but what the heck, if they don't charge it to my credit card until it is back in stock and they can ship, that's ok.
> 
> imagine my surprise when the 009 was delivered the next day (tuesday) after ordering them monday afternoon (with next day delivery option)................wow, do these sound sweet with the BHSE!  in my mind, i had thought of comparing my current 404LE with the 009 and carefully identifying the gains of one vs. the other, but i can't go back when listening to the detail on the 009s is so smile-inducing.  i love the 404LE but the 009 are just in a different universe.
> 
> my wallet is now officially a uni-directional receptacle for at least the rest of the year (i.e. i can sell off old stuff and put money in but no more money going out for audio expenditures this year.............and this time i mean it, really i do!!!!)


 
   
  Congrats!  I hope you enjoy them thoroughly.  And sorry for your wallet.


----------



## Anthony1

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> well, my willpower succumbed and instead of waiting until the end of the year as planned, the 10% off everything sale at elusive disc forced my fingers to hit the enter key..........and then it was done, i'd ordered an 009........ even though the web page said it was out of stock, but what the heck, if they don't charge it to my credit card until it is back in stock and they can ship, that's ok.
> 
> imagine my surprise when the 009 was delivered the next day (tuesday) after ordering them monday afternoon (with next day delivery option)................wow, do these sound sweet with the BHSE!  in my mind, i had thought of comparing my current 404LE with the 009 and carefully identifying the gains of one vs. the other, but i can't go back when listening to the detail on the 009s is so smile-inducing.  i love the 404LE but the 009 are just in a different universe.
> 
> my wallet is now officially a uni-directional receptacle for at least the rest of the year (i.e. i can sell off old stuff and put money in but no more money going out for audio expenditures this year.............and this time i mean it, really i do!!!!)


 
   
   
  Congrats and Im jealous


----------



## rubenpp

I received my SR-009 on my birthday , a day early from the scheduled 2 day delivery. I was all set to go to work that day but felt a headache ( wasn't able to get enough sleep from the anticipation ), and decided to report for work in the afternoon.  Just as I was about to get ready to leave , the doorbell rang and to my surprise the  Fedex man showed up with a box  ( with Woo Audio written on it ) . He said it came in a day early and rather than taking it out of truck , took the chance of delivering to my place (Signature was required) . *Truly, there is a God* ! 
   
  I left for work ,after thanking the guy and signing for the box , so happy in the knowledge that I will be having a whole weekend of listening to the Stax .


----------



## MuppetFace

Congratulations to those who have recently found an SR-009 in their lives. It is truly one of the greatest achievements thus far in the world of headphones.
   
  My view of this hobby seems to be shifting lately. My fondness for collecting is giving way to a desire for minimalism, and as such I've decided to down-size my collection quite a bit, to focus primarily on the things I enjoy most.
   
​   
  I've got an SR-Omega coming my way very soon. Along with the SR-007mk1 and SR-009, I will use it with my KGSS now and eventually with the BHSE I plan to put in an order for shortly. I'd also like to pick up an HE60 at some point and send it in to Sennheiser for a check-up.


----------



## cat6man

i strongly support headphone monogamy, for more than just financial considerations.
   
  'this way, madness lies'.............and i'm crazy enough without multiple systems competing for my affections.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> My fondness for collecting is giving way to a desire for minimalism, and as such I've decided to down-size my collection quite a bit, to focus primarily on the things I enjoy most.
> 
> I've got an SR-Omega coming my way very soon. Along with the SR-007mk1 and SR-009, I will use it with my KGSS now and eventually with the BHSE I plan to put in an order for shortly. I'd also like to pick up an HE60 at some point and send it in to Sennheiser for a check-up.


 
   
  You call that downsizing? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Also, congrats on the SR-Omega.  That's a rare find.  It'd be great to hear how it compares to the SR-009.  I believe Spritzer mentioned that owning the SR-009 obviates the need for the SR-Omega (I think he said the 009s do everything the Omegas do, but better), so I'm curious to see if your opinion agrees or disagrees with his.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Congratulations to those who have recently found an SR-009 in their lives. It is truly one of the greatest achievements thus far in the world of headphones.
> 
> My view of this hobby seems to be shifting lately. My fondness for collecting is giving way to a desire for minimalism, and as such I've decided to down-size my collection quite a bit, to focus primarily on the things I enjoy most.
> 
> ...


 
  Since your jumping in the deep end with all the top headphones, skip the HE60 and get the HE90.  if you can find one that is.


----------



## Tilpo

keithpgdrb said:


> Since your jumping in the deep end with all the top headphones, skip the HE60 and get the HE90.  if you can find one that is.



And don't mind the second mortgage either.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> You call that downsizing?





   
  Even though I'd be acquiring a few more specific pieces, I'd ideally still like to sell off most of my collection which has grown quite large over the years.
   

   Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Also, congrats on the SR-Omega.  That's a rare find.  It'd be great to hear how it compares to the SR-009.  I believe Spritzer mentioned that owning the SR-009 obviates the need for the SR-Omega (I think he said the 009s do everything the Omegas do, but better), so I'm curious to see if your opinion agrees or disagrees with his.





   
  I'm sure the SR-009 outclasses the SR-Omega in most respects, but I'm definitely interested in even subtle differences in sound between the two.

   
   

  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Since your jumping in the deep end with all the top headphones, skip the HE60 and get the HE90.  if you can find one that is.


 
   
  Oh, I've been in the deep end for quite some time now as a collector; I'm not jumping in but rather looking to climb out at this point. Or at least slow down.
   
  Truth be told I'm feeling a bit disillusioned as of late with regard to this hobby, and in response I feel an urge to stick with my favorites and ignore everything else. I suppose the well worn expression "quality over quantity" applies.
   
  The HE60 has been an object of desire for me for a while now, but for one reason or another it has yet to come into my possession. On the other hand finding an Orpheus set wouldn't be very hard for me at this point, as one of my head-fi buddies is planning to sell his, so I could get an HE90 and HEV90 for about $22,000 USD if I wanted. There's another set I could get for about $31,000 USD right now.
   
  However at this point I've got too many other expenses on the horizon. I'm also saving my acquisition of the Orpheus specifically for a later date, as it's something of a crown jewel from a collector's stand point, and there are still other treasures I'd like to seek out before that point. When I feel the time is right to really settle down for a long stretch then I'll be more inclined to invest in one.


----------



## forbigger

throw in ESP950 for a different flavor. I kinda regret selling mine. If not this, 007 and 009. I would call it the Trinity.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Truth be told I'm feeling a bit disillusioned as of late with regard to this hobby, and in response I feel an urge to stick with my favorites and ignore everything else. I suppose the well worn expression "quality over quantity" applies.
> 
> The HE60 has been an object of desire for me for a while now, but for one reason or another it has yet to come into my possession. On the other hand finding an Orpheus set wouldn't be very hard for me at this point, as one of my head-fi buddies is planning to sell his, so I could get an HE90 and HEV90 for about $22,000 USD if I wanted. There's another set I could get for about $31,000 USD right now.
> 
> However at this point I've got too many other expenses on the horizon. I'm also saving my acquisition of the Orpheus specifically for a later date, as it's something of a crown jewel from a collector's stand point, and there are still other treasures I'd like to seek out before that point. When I feel the time is right to really settle down for a long stretch then I'll be more inclined to invest in one.


 
   
  I know what you mean. I've always had a preference for a few excellent "do-it-all" headphones over a ton of average ones that are good for only very specific types of music. Also, now that my living situation has changed, my interests have shifted back into the realm of speakers. I want to play around with some full-range drivers like Super 8 Alnicos and some low power, pure Class A amps. I feel like there's the potential with FR for a hell of a lot of sound quality for the money involved. Crossovers? We don't need no steenkin' crossovers.


----------



## Bingturong

Hello everyone
   
  I was wondering if someone can give a comparison between the 202 and the lambda pro, using the same amp.
   
  Thanks in advance


----------



## catscratch

muppetface said:


> Truth be told I'm feeling a bit disillusioned as of late with regard to this hobby, and in response I feel an urge to stick with my favorites and ignore everything else. I suppose the well worn expression "quality over quantity" applies.




You're just lost in the Electrostatic Vortex. It happens when one crosses over the Electrostatic Event Horizon, which generally results from using a well-driven SR-007 or equivalent phone over any lengthy period of time. Unfortunately, no force in the known universe can extricate you from within the Vortex, but such is life.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Also, now that my living situation has changed, my interests have shifted back into the realm of speakers. I want to play around with some full-range drivers like Super 8 Alnicos and some low power, pure Class A amps. I feel like there's the potential with FR for a hell of a lot of sound quality for the money involved.


 
   
  This sounds like a great idea, and I wish I had the space to pair some high-efficiency speakers with my Class A amp.  It always makes me a bit depressed hearing speakers and going back to headphones, with how much gets lost without the speaker soundstaging capabilities.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> You're just lost in the Electrostatic Vortex. It happens when one crosses over the Electrostatic Event Horizon, which generally results from using a well-driven SR-007 or equivalent phone over any lengthy period of time. Unfortunately, no force in the known universe can extricate you from within the Vortex, but such is life.


 
   
  So true.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I would get a HE60 over the HE90 or both as they are very different.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I just got an SR-303 today for cheap, knowing that there might be something wrong with it.
   
  As it turns out, the right driver was separated between the inward stator and the brass diaphragm spacer. I can't say I've ever seen a Stax driver split like that without someone intentionally doing so, and this set was clearly untampered with. I see no obvious marks on the housing that suggest it had a nasty drop, either.
   
  What would cause the glue to just fail like that? One theory is that it was really roughed up during shipping beyond what the glue could take the last time it was shipped out, even as well-packed as it was.


----------



## Clarkmc2

davebsc said:


> I know what you mean. I've always had a preference for a few excellent "do-it-all" headphones over a ton of average ones that are good for only very specific types of music. Also, now that my living situation has changed, my interests have shifted back into the realm of speakers. I want to play around with some full-range drivers like Super 8 Alnicos and some low power, pure Class A amps. I feel like there's the potential with FR for a hell of a lot of sound quality for the money involved. Crossovers? We don't need no steenkin' crossovers.



I will put in my usual pitch for the Hammer Dynamics Super 12, since I assume you will be building enclosures. I mention it often because they are under the radar and I have never heard better, or even anything quite like them. For good information general and specific, have you been to fullrangedriver.com? Don't miss the forums, the go to place on the web for this topic.


----------



## Clarkmc2

Double post.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





clarkmc2 said:


> I will put in my usual pitch for the Hammer Dynamics Super 12, since I assume you will be building enclosures. I mention it often because they are under the radar and I have never heard better, or even anything quite like them. For good information general and specific, have you been to fullrangedriver.com? Don't miss the forums, the go to place on the web for this topic.


 

 That's still technically a 2-way with a crossover. I'm looking for more of a monitor, and the Super 8 is about as big as is reasonably practical to fit in a stand mount enclosure. I also want the driver wired directly to the binding posts.


----------



## Clarkmc2

I tossed the crossover and ironed out the response with a transconductance amp. Single 2mfd caps feed the tweeters. Most of the crossover is a notch filter. No eight inch driver can do what the Hammers do, but the older Omega units are the best smaller speakers I have heard. Didn't know you were cramped for space.

BTW, my drivers are wired direct. Transconductance has its own rules, and that is one of them. Even if you do use a modifying circuit, the amp hooks up directly to the terminals of the speaker. Networks run in parallel, not series.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I just got an SR-303 today for cheap, knowing that there might be something wrong with it.
> 
> As it turns out, the right driver was separated between the inward stator and the brass diaphragm spacer. I can't say I've ever seen a Stax driver split like that without someone intentionally doing so, and this set was clearly untampered with. I see no obvious marks on the housing that suggest it had a nasty drop, either.
> 
> What would cause the glue to just fail like that? One theory is that it was really roughed up during shipping beyond what the glue could take the last time it was shipped out, even as well-packed as it was.


 
   
  It can happen when they get a hard knock.  One of the reasons why Stax finally stopped gluing the drivers in the latest models.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I glued that right driver back together carefully. So far, it's holding together, but there's still a channel imbalance even though I made sure there are no visible gaps in the driver assembly. At first, I thought the right driver had a veil to the sound, but a bit of fiddling with balance controls revealed that it's just running much quieter.
   
  Is there still any hope for that driver? I saw no obvious damage to either of the stators or the diaphragm, but electrostatic drivers are precision instruments, after all.
   
  On another note, these SR-303 pads are much softer than what I'm used to, coming from the SR-202 and a 30-year-old SR-Lambda. I can't believe it's pleather! Really helps with comfort even with the slightly higher clamping force of the Nova/numerical-style headband/arc.


----------



## Magick Man

I'm sure others here know more than me, but unplug them overnight and then leave them plugged in for a couple days. Stats are weird in the way they hold a charge.


----------



## AnakChan

Does anyone have the dimensions of the SR-009 please? I'm travelling at the moment and don't have access to mine and am thinking of picking up a storage/transport case that can hold it. Most likely a Pelican case of some sort but not knowing the SR-009 dimensions, I don't know which Pelican case to get.


----------



## arnaud

There you go! Seems like you're enjoying your time back home (mini-meet and all) !
   
   

   
  Good luck with the pelican case!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Even though I'd be acquiring a few more specific pieces, I'd ideally still like to sell off most of my collection which has grown quite large over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  My HE-60 sound quite similar to my SR-009, with slightly less warmth and bass, but certainly not lacking in that regard.  The clarity, speed, large out of head experience, and the ability to disappear and not sound like speakers next to the ears are what draws me to them over and over.  However, once I got the SR-009 I got all that and more, and most of my other stats are getting a lot less attention. I still don't think I'll ever part with the 007 and HE-60, but the SR-009 rule.
   
  The SR-009 from my KGSS are wonderful, but from my hot-rodded DIY KGBH they sound simply stunning, and the bass impact and slam at high volumes surprised me.  Even with the KGBH the 007 can't perform like this.  I'd be curious to read what you think about the HE-60 when you get a pair, especially with a more powerful amp like the BHSE (which unfortunately requires an adapter or re-terminating them).


----------



## AnakChan

arnaud said:


> There you go! Seems like you're enjoying your time back home (mini-meet and all) !
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Brilliant mate! Thx so much, Arnaud!

It's actually for my broken TH900s but since I'm getting a case for that I may as well get one big enough for the SR-009s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I glued that right driver back together carefully. So far, it's holding together, but there's still a channel imbalance even though I made sure there are no visible gaps in the driver assembly. At first, I thought the right driver had a veil to the sound, but a bit of fiddling with balance controls revealed that it's just running much quieter.
> 
> Is there still any hope for that driver? I saw no obvious damage to either of the stators or the diaphragm, but electrostatic drivers are precision instruments, after all.
> 
> On another note, these SR-303 pads are much softer than what I'm used to, coming from the SR-202 and a 30-year-old SR-Lambda. I can't believe it's pleather! Really helps with comfort even with the slightly higher clamping force of the Nova/numerical-style headband/arc.


 
   
  It's crucial to remove all the old glue before you reassemble the driver and to put them under a great deal of pressure to make sure the glue is as thin as possible.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Brilliant mate! Thx so much, Arnaud!
> It's actually for my broken TH900s but since I'm getting a case for that I may as well get one big enough for the SR-009s.


 
  You broke a pair of TH900?@!??!?!?!??!?  OUCH!


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's crucial to remove all the old glue before you reassemble the driver and to put them under a great deal of pressure to make sure the glue is as thin as possible.


 
   
  May I ask what you use to remove the old glue without any potential damage to the driver components? That'll be crucial for me to pull this off properly.
   
  I also know you use polyurethane glue, but I don't know exactly what brand or anything you use. Maybe it doesn't really matter as long as it's some variety of polyurethane, but there are multiple varieties of polyurethane glue floating around out there which may not all be suitable for the purposes of electrostatic driver repair.
   
  Hopefully, I can restore this SR-303 to proper working order, and then move on to getting a proper Pro bias amp to drive it. (Or mod one of my SRD-7/SB's jacks to Pro bias somehow. Still need to keep at least one Normal bias jack for my current SR-Lambda. Not sure if I can do that with your Pro bias boards, or even if those boards work without an AC power input.)


----------



## spritzer

I always use a razor blade which is not for the faint of heart.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  For the glue I've tried a lot of types and most work just fine.  Some of the DIY ESL sites also sell polyurethane glue which will work perfectly. 
   
  The bias boards just need AC and it doesn't matter whether it comes from the wall or if it is "stolen" off the audio signal.  The only issue would be the output voltage from the internal step-up transformer as they changed the design over the years.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade, but if I don't have to worry about damaging the stator by scratching too deep into it or something like that (since I know they're coated with an insulation layer), it might be worth a shot to do it right.
   
  If most kinds of polyurethane glue work out just fine, then I should be able to get by with a bottle of Gorilla Glue (available in most brick-and-mortar stores here in the US).
   
  As for AC input, I didn't think of an amplified audio signal itself being a source of AC power, but it does make sense when I think about it.
   
  In other Stax-related news, I just spotted an SR-Lambda Signature with SRD-7/Pro on eBay. I'd try my luck at bidding on it myself and giving the Lambda Sig a spin, but my bank account just won't allow for it, especially with these Steam sales going on! (Also, I really need to save my money for a proper Stax amp with both bias outputs, especially if I get that SR-303 functioning properly.)


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade, but if I don't have to worry about damaging the stator by scratching too deep into it or something like that (since I know they're coated with an insulation layer), it might be worth a shot to do it right.
> 
> If most kinds of polyurethane glue work out just fine, then I should be able to get by with a bottle of Gorilla Glue (available in most brick-and-mortar stores here in the US).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Gorilla glue expands quite a bit and works best on wet surfaces so you might want to look elsewhere for fine detail work like this. I found a polyurethane glue here advertised for ESL's though the shipping might be steep.


----------



## thinker

Mal Valve electrostatic amplifier
   
  k o p f h ö r e r - v e r s t ä r k e r
 power amp one OTL (*R) 2x90W 2xECC83/4xEF184/4xECC88+4x6550
   57.2 lbs


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





otakusound said:


> Gorilla glue expands quite a bit and works best on wet surfaces so you might want to look elsewhere for fine detail work like this. I found a polyurethane glue here advertised for ESL's though the shipping might be steep.


 
   
  Argh, just my luck...not all polyurethane glues are suitable for this sort of thing after all. I knew something wasn't quite right when it wanted one of the mating surfaces to be moistened.
   
  Maybe I'm getting in over my head with something so seemingly simple, but you never learn until you try. Next thing I know, I'll be making my own electrostatic drivers and mounting them in Lambda frames at this rate...


----------



## Arnaldo

Does anyone know if the Stax CPC-1 plastic cover is large enough enough to fit a Sieveking Sound Omega headphone stand? The stand is 4 3/4" deep but there are no measurements for the Stax cover. On the same vein, I was wondering if anyone has a preference on the Omega stand or Stax's own HPS-2 stand, for a SR-009.


----------



## wsilvio

I use the the 009's on a woo audio headphone stand and the cpc-1 cover over that.  it works well.  I don't see any reason it wouldn't fit over the Sieveking.


----------



## David1961

Hi Arnaldo ,
  Here are three photos of an Headphone stand I got from www.thomann.de . The measurements of this stand are W - 222 D - 156 H - 270mm . It cost me including delivery £83. I don't know the measurements of the Sieveking stands but I'm guessing they're quite similar.
   
                                                                     Dave.


----------



## Arnaldo

Thanks for the info and pics. These stands seem to apply less pressure on the SR-009 headband than the Stax HPS-2 with that single narrow piece of wood.
   
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *David1961* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Hi Arnaldo ,
> Here are three photos of an Headphone stand I got from www.thomann.de . The measurements of this stand are W - 222 D - 156 H - 270mm . It cost me including delivery £83. I don't know the measurements of the Sieveking stands but I'm guessing they're quite similar.
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





wsilvio said:


> I use the the 009's on a woo audio headphone stand and the cpc-1 cover over that.  it works well.  I don't see any reason it wouldn't fit over the Sieveking.


----------



## billyhightech

I used to drool over Stax back when I was in my teens. I just wish I had got a pair instead of wasting thousands and thousands on "high-end" speakers.


----------



## David1961

If anyone is wanting to have a look at the stands they have on their website, they have to write headphone stands in quick search which brings up a list, choose any from the list and under the stand showing there's misc headphone accessories, choose that and it shows the stands they do.


----------



## musicman59

Those are great looking stands!


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





arnaldo said:


> Does anyone know if the Stax CPC-1 plastic cover is large enough enough to fit a Sieveking Sound Omega headphone stand? The stand is 4 3/4" deep but there are no measurements for the Stax cover. On the same vein, I was wondering if anyone has a preference on the Omega stand or Stax's own HPS-2 stand, for a SR-009.


 
   
  The CPC-1 cover fits over the Sieveking perfectly.  Both the Sieveking Omega and HPS-2 are perfect for the SR-009, but the HPS-2 is cheaper.
   
  Also, the thomann.de stands are really fantastic-looking.  Wish I'd known about them sooner.  The zebrano one looks especially good: http://www.thomann.de/gb/rooms_audio_typ_iii_z_headphone_stand.htm


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Also, the thomann.de stands are really fantastic-looking.  Wish I'd known about them sooner.  The zebrano one looks especially good: http://www.thomann.de/gb/rooms_audio_typ_iii_z_headphone_stand.htm


 
   
  i really like those too..................i have the omega stand and while it looks beautiful, i wish it were a little heavier on the bottom for stability.............it looks like the thomann stand may be a little more stable.
   
do you have a delivery date for your BHSE yet? i'm just blown away by the BHSE/009 combination, particularly the continuous soundstage and presentation of detail..............wheeeeeeeeeee


----------



## Radio_head

Best Rooms Audio stands are the FS stands - no compression on the pads and good angling on the headband without stretching.  Sieveking style stands (by extension the one made by rooms as well) compresses the pads and in some cases stretches out the band.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> do you have a delivery date for your BHSE yet?


 
   
  Still waiting.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Hopefully by month's end.


----------



## jaycalgary

I like Lepage marine epoxy in particular of the 2 part epoxies. It sets in about an hour but after mixed it is very very thin. I would not recommend any other of the Lapage 2 part epoxies besides this one though and  I never used it for your purpose but I bet you would have very good luck with it.


----------



## Arnaldo

Radio_head has a very good point in that larger stands such as the Sieveking Sound Omega may stretch out the SR-009 band over time. OTOH, the Room's FS would be almost perfect, except that its design won't accommodate a cover such as the CPC-1, as per the images below. Ether way, I found them for sale at two German online retailers, Thomman and Madooma, but not in the US. In the end, it looks like the Stax HPS-2 is the best compromise for now.
   
 
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Best Rooms Audio stands are the FS stands - no compression on the pads and good angling on the headband without stretching.  Sieveking style stands (by extension the one made by rooms as well) compresses the pads and in some cases stretches out the band.


 
   
  Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> The CPC-1 cover fits over the Sieveking perfectly.  Both the Sieveking Omega and HPS-2 are perfect for the SR-009, but the HPS-2 is cheaper.
> 
> Also, the thomann.de stands are really fantastic-looking.  Wish I'd known about them sooner.  The zebrano one looks especially good: http://www.thomann.de/gb/rooms_audio_typ_iii_z_headphone_stand.htm


----------



## DaveBSC

It's too bad this isn't a commercial product, I just love the way it looks.


----------



## Radio_head

Thomann also ships to the US.


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Best Rooms Audio stands are the FS stands - no compression on the pads and good angling on the headband without stretching.  Sieveking style stands (by extension the one made by rooms as well) compresses the pads and in some cases stretches out the band.


 
   
  This.  People seem to spend a lot of money on damaging their headphones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade, but if I don't have to worry about damaging the stator by scratching too deep into it or something like that (since I know they're coated with an insulation layer), it might be worth a shot to do it right.
> 
> If most kinds of polyurethane glue work out just fine, then I should be able to get by with a bottle of Gorilla Glue (available in most brick-and-mortar stores here in the US).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Any glue that expands is wholly unsuitable as the layer needs to be as this as possible.  I have never tried any commercial glue that works for this so you have to think industrial, that's where the good stuff is.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Any glue that expands is wholly unsuitable as the layer needs to be as thin as possible.  I have never tried any commercial glue that works for this so you have to think industrial, that's where the good stuff is.


 
   
  I'll remember that the next time I attempt something like this. Better find a good US source for these non-expanding, industrial-grade polyurethane glues...
   
  By the way, have you ever tried the SR-Lambda (Pro) Signature before? There aren't too many reviews of that variant, at least not to the degree of the later Lambda _Nova_ Signature. What I do know, however, are your statements on how thinner diaphragms are not always better, and the Lambda Signature's diaphragms had the selling point of being only 1 micron thick...
   
   


davebsc said:


> It's too bad this isn't a commercial product, I just love the way it looks.


 
   
  At first glance, I thought that was some kind of weird-looking lamp and not a headphone stand!


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> At first glance, I thought that was some kind of weird-looking lamp and not a headphone stand!


 
   
  No it's a stand, though it would be cool to put LEDs in the base under the glass, or under the top section.


----------



## milosz

I like the Sennheiser HH-10 holder


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I like the Sennheiser HH-10 holder


 
  I am sooooooooo jelly...


----------



## Radio_head

The Sennheiser clamp is the best deal in headphone stands.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> The Sennheiser clamp is the best deal in headphone stands.


 
  Free with my HD595


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> By the way, have you ever tried the SR-Lambda (Pro) Signature before? There aren't too many reviews of that variant, at least not to the degree of the later Lambda _Nova_ Signature. What I do know, however, are your statements on how thinner diaphragms are not always better, and the Lambda Signature's diaphragms had the selling point of being only 1 micron thick...


 
   
  I've owned 20+ Lambda Sigs over the years and one is now serving as my test headphone for new amps.  A bit too forward for my tastes so the bass suffers and the dreaded etch is there in full force.  It's still a lovely headphone for those who like a more folward presentaion.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've owned 20+ Lambda Sigs over the years and one is now serving as my test headphone for new amps.  A bit too forward for my tastes so the bass suffers and the dreaded etch is there in full force.  It's still a lovely headphone for those who like a more folward presentaion.


 
   
  The treble etch does concern me since it could be distracting. I generally want a reference neutral response that's easy to color to taste, as it's easier to do that than to try and make a colored headphone neutral.
   
  On the other hand, I love a somewhat forward midrange, as I discovered when comparing the SR-Lambda and SR-202 (though they also had different amplification systems backing them up due to the bias difference; I seriously need an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro, SRM-313, or SRM-T1). Vocals felt recessed on the SR-202, falling behind the music. Sure, I could've just raised the EQ around 1 KHz with the SR-202, but it still sounded a tad harsh, grainy, or not smooth by comparison, for lack of better terms. This is incidentally why I don't think I'd like the Lambda Pro very much.
   
  Is there a Lambda that can beat the Normal bias original's lovely mids?


----------



## spritzer

Nope, they are still the best.


----------



## pkshan

I have a Lambda signature, with the heavy modded T1S,
  I don't notice any "etch",the mid-highs are very smooth & liquid.
   
  Before mod,the highs are lacking some refinement


----------



## spritzer

To keep this out of the BHSE thread, here is how to modify the SRM-727 to make is sound like it should have.  I don't recommend this for the SR-009 but for every other Stax headphone it is a good idea to do the mod.  What needs to be done is remove two 150K resistors off the back of each amplifier card (you can see them in the pic below) and connect new 150K resistors from one end of the one removed to an empty spot on the PCB.  Stax were nice enough to make the connection for us so no messy wires needed.  
   
http://i.imgur.com/GEWTM.jpg
   
  The picture is quite big.  Once the mod has been done on both channels adjust the offset and balance for 0VDC and you are good to go.


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is an alternate way that is even easier, if you can get some kapton tape.
  You put tape on the 2 card edge connectors you don't want, and then
  solder a jumper between the 2 card edge connectors.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Stax SRE-B3 headphone adapter
   
  What the heck is this? At first glance, it looks like a simple device that splits one Normal bias jack into three, but I don't know if a typical Stax amp could take that kind of load over one port. Or, for that matter, if it would fit without a volume knob or other switch getting in the way.
   
  Then again, if an SRD-7's second port basically has wires bridging it with the first port, which is in turn wired to the bias board...


----------



## jaycalgary

It's a knick knack for the Stax collector that has everything.


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Stax SRE-B3 headphone adapter
> 
> What the heck is this? At first glance, it looks like a simple device that splits one Normal bias jack into three, but I don't know if a typical Stax amp could take that kind of load over one port. Or, for that matter, if it would fit without a volume knob or other switch getting in the way.
> 
> Then again, if an SRD-7's second port basically has wires bridging it with the first port, which is in turn wired to the bias board...


 
   
   
  I've only seen this thing once before, probably browsing the old stax thread. It seems like the only real practical use would be in studios perhaps? I'm guessing Stax marketed their gear that way back then so this would save someone having to buy multiple amplifiers? Regardless, you... you just worry about buying glue and fixing drivers, I'll worry about bidding on not at all rare Stax curiosities. That way we both win.


----------



## dcpoor

It requires a stax extension cable to use, if you look closely it has 3 sockets and one plug.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





otakusound said:


> I've only seen this thing once before, probably browsing the old stax thread. It seems like the only real practical use would be in studios perhaps? I'm guessing Stax marketed their gear that way back then so this would save someone having to buy multiple amplifiers? Regardless, you... you just worry about buying glue and fixing drivers, I'll worry about bidding on not at all rare Stax curiosities. That way we both win.


 
   
  Wasn't going to bid on that anyway. The bigger priority for me right now is getting a Stax amp with both Normal bias and Pro bias capability, at least whenever it's not financial suicide to do so. (Seems like the current going rate for an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro is $400 on average. The SRM-313 and SRM-T1 only go up from there, and while I thought the ExStatA was supposed to be a low-cost design closer to $300, the ones I see on Head-Fi B/S/T are more like $800. Sure, there are transformer boxes like what I've got now, but people charge so much for Pro bias ones that you might as well tack on an extra $100 and get a proper amp.)
   
  Other than that, I can manage if my SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB setup continues to work properly. I was worried for a moment that something might have been acting up with the right channel in the SRD-7/SB, but it seems to have sorted itself out.


----------



## spritzer

It is certainly possible to build a Stax amp for 200$ but it would require some sacrifices.  I'm planning to build an amp into a SRD-7 box using ECC83's and 6CG7's using the simplest PSU possible and it should be well under 200$ in parts.  Fully balanced too...


----------



## NamelessPFG

SR-Lambda with SRD-7/SB
   
  Pretty impressive condition for a 30+ year old headphone system, but $475 starting bid + $15.75 shipping seems on the high side for me given what similar setups sell for here on Head-Fi (more like $300-400). $725 Buy-It-Now is way too much without a proper amplifier (SRM-1/Mk2, at least).


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> SR-Lambda with SRD-7/SB
> 
> Pretty impressive condition for a 30+ year old headphone system, but $475 starting bid + $15.75 shipping seems on the high side for me given what similar setups sell for here on Head-Fi (more like $300-400). $725 Buy-It-Now is way too much without a proper amplifier (SRM-1/Mk2, at least).


 
   
  The $15.75 is more than fair for shipping costs for both the phones and energizer - - - however, the price of this Stax pair should be absolutely no more than $200, maybe $250 !


----------



## Magick Man

charliex said:


> The $15.75 is more than fair for shipping costs for both the phones and energizer - - - however, the price of this Stax pair should be absolutely no more than $200, maybe $250 !




Heh, think that's bad? Try buying vintage orthos. %^%&...


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





charliex said:


> The $15.75 is more than fair for shipping costs for both the phones and energizer - - - however, the price of this Stax pair should be absolutely no more than $200, maybe $250 !


 
   
  Good luck finding a reasonable price on vintage gear right now, at least on EBay. The collector market is crazy atm, especially with vintage orthos as the previous post says.


----------



## pkshan

10 years ago, a used HE60/HEV70 set cost $600 only


----------



## Magick Man

pkshan said:


> 10 years ago, a used HE60/HEV70 set cost $600 only




I'm trying to buy an HE60, by itself, for $1500 and the guy won't accept the offer. Not sure if I want to go much higher.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> 10 years ago, a used HE60/HEV70 set cost $600 only


 
   
  In 2002? Really?
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/194863/he60-resale-price#post_2337321
   
  According to that post, the market value in 2005 was $1400 - $1600.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The prices have gone up. Way up. Ask spritzer how much he paid for a brand new
  in the box set of he60's without the amp. OUCH.


----------



## Anders

In 2006 the recommended retail price for a HE60/HEV70 was 1200 Euro according to the German magazine Stereoplay (9/2006). It could be bought new then, and still a few years after that I think. The used price should often be about half of that. I got mine for about 500 Euro.


----------



## Vegeta55555

Quote: 





anders said:


> In 2006 the recommended retail price for a HE60/HEV70 was 1200 Euro according to the German magazine Stereoplay (9/2006). It could be bought new then, and still a few years after that I think. The used price should often be about half of that. I got mine for about 500 Euro.


 
   
  You got a set for 500 Euro? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 (I paid 2000 Euro for my set...)


----------



## Anders

Yes, it was about five years ago and not on Head-Fi. Prices on Head-Fi were higher but not that inflated then. So now the used price seems to be almost the double of the original price!


----------



## spritzer

I paid 2100$ for my last set but it was pretty much brand new and came with some spare parts for my ever expanding collection.  They may be almost new but I will still rip them apart to apply my usual mods to make sure they will last a long time.


----------



## Anders

What is the long time mod?
   
  There should also be a rubber ring for isolation in the headphone. How to the check that the ring is OK?


----------



## spritzer

I add extra dust covers on both sides as there is no way the drivers will remain dust free with the stock covers. 
   
  You can see the o-ring through the outer grill so if it's broken you should be able to spot it.  Otherwise you just have to take off the earpads and remove 4 screws to open up the cups.


----------



## Anders

Thanks spritzer, I will look at them tomorrow in daylight. I am afraid of working on electrostatic headphones and will be very careful. Better that they deteriorate slowly in a natural way than destroying them now by incompetence!


----------



## Michgelsen

Back in 2007 I bought an ex demo HE60/HEV70 set for EUR 900. It even came with a two year warranty, since I was the first owner.
   
  Part of the reason I sold it later (locally) was that I was worried about their reliability and serviceability, which could distract from the listening enjoyment.
   
  I never really regret it. Stax is awesome too, in fact even better to my ears. One exception is the unrivaled airiness of the HE60.


----------



## charliex

Bought my HE-60 (phones only) less than a year ago and paid $1850.  They were in mint condition, almost brand new - and I haven't regretted the purchase at all.
  An unparalleled pair of electrostatic headphones - still my faves!


----------



## NamelessPFG

One of these days, I'll have to audition some non-Stax 'stats. The Koss ESP/950 is out of my price range, though (going by the usual $500-600 prices), and the Sennheiser Orpheus...well, I'd have a better chance at owning an SR-007 at that rate. Maybe even the SR-009 if we're talking about the HE/90.
   
  While we're at it, how about other obscure 'stats like the Beyerdynamic ET-1000 and this MB QUART PMB1000 I've never even heard of before? (The latter reminds me a little of the Jecklin Float and the various Ergo models, both of which also had electrostatic variants. The latter even had a Heil AMT variant. I wonder what those sound like compared to electrostatic drivers.)


----------



## charliex

I have a dynamic Jecklin, but am hoping to find the electrostatic version which I hear is quite remarkable.  But haven't seen either versions of Jecklins in the sale/trade forums for quite some time.  Actually, I have found that if you're looking for some of the great classics it's best to grab 'em while you can as they seem to come up very infrequently if at all these days.


----------



## thinker

The MalValve  power amp *one* is electrostatic headphone amplifier for Stax SR-009
   

   

   
  spezifikationen
 . symmetrisch in 2 x 3polig stereo
 . asymmetrisch in 2 x 2polig stereo
 . input impedance 470 kOhm
 . high outputs 2 x spezialbuchse für elektrostatische kopfhörer
 . high voltage 2 x 500 Veff.
 . outputs 2 x XLR 3polig
 . netzanschluß 230 (115) VAC, 50 - 60 Hz
 steckverbinder
 . goldkontaktierte WBT-cinchbuchsen
 . goldkontaktierte Neutrik-XLR-steckadapter
 . spezialbuchsen für elektrostatische kopfhörer (Stax)
 schalter
 . on - off
 . triode - pentode
   ESH
 , symmetrisch - asymmetrisch
 optionen
 . output transformer für magnetostatische und dynamische kopfhörer
 . output transformer für lautsprecher
 gehäuse
 . 10 mm aluminiumchassis
 . 10 mm aluminiumhaube
 . gebürstetet und schwarz eloxiert
 . graviertes messingemblem glanzverchromt
 . abmessungen Ø 400 mm x 70/200 mm (h)
 . gewicht: 20KG


----------



## sridhar3

Man that thing is ugly.


----------



## mwilson

^ Reminds me of a waffle maker.


----------



## spritzer

It's not a looker but those KT120's could prove to be interesting.


----------



## Failed Engineer

What solid state amplifier options does a new O2 MK1 owner have?  I really don't want to deal with tubes.  From what I can gather, the KGSSHV is the top option, but there is no commercially available builder yet, and may never be one.  Then there is the KGSS, who's only commercial build is now out of production.  The Liquid Lightning doesn't seem to mate well with the O2 from what has been mentioned in these forums.  Then it's down to the Stax amps, which seem to be built to a price and not necessarily suitable drivers for the O2.  And the better Stax options are very expensive new, and I'll probably rather wait for something to appear used.  DIY is completely out of the option for me, but I wouldn't mind commissioning a build, but there doesn't seem to be any really reliable ones out there.
   
  I seem to be at a loss, and probably will have to wait until a KGSS shows up on the forums.  Any advice would be much appreciated.


----------



## n3rdling

Just get a used 717.


----------



## Radio_head

.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Speaking of amps, I've been thinking about the S-001 MkII ("Baby Stax", as some of you like to call them) lately, as a way to get that 'stat sound on-the-go (and also to find out how well they Stax up to the full-size Lambdas).
   
  Problem is, it's been discontinued...at least the SRM-001 amp portion, anyway. The IEMs are still produced as the SR-003, with the standard Stax Pro bias plug instead of the slim, proprietary one meant for the SRM-001.
   
  This got me thinking...if the SRM-003 is the same thing, just designed to plug into desktop Stax amps, then how feasible would it be to build a replacement portable amp to fill in the gap the SRM-001 left? People were modding that little amp for better performance and battery life anyway...


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Speaking of amps, I've been thinking about the S-001 MkII ("Baby Stax", as some of you like to call them) lately, as a way to get that 'stat sound on-the-go (and also to find out how well they Stax up to the full-size Lambdas).
> 
> Problem is, it's been discontinued...at least the SRM-001 amp portion, anyway. The IEMs are still produced as the SR-003, with the standard Stax Pro bias plug instead of the slim, proprietary one meant for the SRM-001.
> 
> This got me thinking...if the SRM-003 is the same thing, just designed to plug into desktop Stax amps, then how feasible would it be to build a replacement portable amp to fill in the gap the SRM-001 left? People were modding that little amp for better performance and battery life anyway...


 
   
  Isn't Stax in the process of making a portable amp?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Isn't Stax in the process of making a portable amp?


 
   
  If they are, and it's not the SRD-P or SRM-001 that were released years ago and discontinued, then this is the first I've heard of it.


----------



## sridhar3

namelesspfg said:


> If they are, and it's not the SRD-P or SRM-001 that were released years ago and discontinued, then this is the first I've heard of it.


 
   
  Found it.  SRM-002.
   

   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/609804/tokyo-fujiya-avic-headphone-festival-spring-2012-meet-impressions#post_8378494
  Credits to Currawong.
   
  Edit: Full size picture can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/currawong1/7184619814/sizes/o/in/photostream/


----------



## arnaud

We've been doing a bad job of reporting on this. A prototype was revealed at spring headphone show and some headfiers may have had a chance to listen to it at the recent portable amp show (I couldn't attend). I assume it is slotted for release this fall.


----------



## vinyllp33

It seems the SR-003 are now discontinued; So this means that Stax will have to also release a new "IEM" design simultaneously with the new portable amp.

Here is a response I received from a Stax vendor in Japan:

"Thank you for your order with us, however we are sorry but this item was all sold out last week, since this item is now discontinued, we can't even order it from Stax Japan warehouse.

Therefore we just issued a refund to your paypal, again, we apologize for the disappointment and thank you for your kind understanding."

Which is a shame because even though I don't feel like these are inherently practical as a true portable IEM they are LOADS of fun when driven off a high-end home amp. 

Many have commented negatively on the fit and if I would have kept trying to use them with their supplied headband I would have all but given up. But used without and if your ear canals are conducive to their design, they can be quite comfortable.

It will be interesting to see what the current owners of Stax have planned for new product design in this market segment.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





failed engineer said:


> What solid state amplifier options does a new O2 MK1 owner have?  I really don't want to deal with tubes.  From what I can gather, the KGSSHV is the top option, but there is no commercially available builder yet, and may never be one.  Then there is the KGSS, who's only commercial build is now out of production.  The Liquid Lightning doesn't seem to mate well with the O2 from what has been mentioned in these forums.  Then it's down to the Stax amps, which seem to be built to a price and not necessarily suitable drivers for the O2.  And the better Stax options are very expensive new, and I'll probably rather wait for something to appear used.  DIY is completely out of the option for me, but I wouldn't mind commissioning a build, but there doesn't seem to be any really reliable ones out there.
> 
> I seem to be at a loss, and probably will have to wait until a KGSS shows up on the forums.  Any advice would be much appreciated.


 

 SRM-323S, used SRM-717, SRM-727II (modded, or not), LL. A used KGSS will take awhile. Alternatively, you could use a transformer and any solid state speaker amp.


----------



## Magick Man

sridhar3 said:


> Found it.  SRM-002.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Sign me up. Having my SR-003s at the library while everyone else is wearing ibuds is full of win. Actually, heck with that, I'll take my 4070s. I'll be stylin'.


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





failed engineer said:


> What solid state amplifier options does a new O2 MK1 owner have?  I really don't want to deal with tubes.  From what I can gather, the KGSSHV is the top option, but there is no commercially available builder yet, and may never be one.  Then there is the KGSS, who's only commercial build is now out of production.  The Liquid Lightning doesn't seem to mate well with the O2 from what has been mentioned in these forums.  Then it's down to the Stax amps, which seem to be built to a price and not necessarily suitable drivers for the O2.  And the better Stax options are very expensive new, and I'll probably rather wait for something to appear used.  DIY is completely out of the option for me, but I wouldn't mind commissioning a build, but there doesn't seem to be any really reliable ones out there.
> 
> I seem to be at a loss, and probably will have to wait until a KGSS shows up on the forums.  Any advice would be much appreciated.


 
   
          
   
_The new V4 amp _
_Above you see a Class-A ultra high-end amplifier and it is said about this amplifier :"The amplifier sounds very clear and detailed. The basses are dry and strong, the frequencies at the high end are sounding very transparent. The very fine resolution of this amplifier has reached a level that will easily outplay every other amplifier out there."_





   
_I will get this DIY amplifier(Andreas Rauenbuehler) this week and testing it with Stax SR-009 and then i can probably confirm if the above statement is right or not._
_With a supply voltage of +/-400 Volt the amplifier can output more then 500 Volt eff (=1500Volt Vss from stator to stator)_
_A newly designed power supply with regulated output voltage.It features low impedance outputs and very low ripple.  Additionaly a tailor-made electronical fuse replaces the conventional fuse for a better protection against short-circuit, without having negativ influence on sound. In this version the main supply is generated by cascading two +400V sources to +/-400V. It reduces the amount of different semiconductors. The applied cascode circuit in the feedback loop allows the application of semiconductors with more suitable parameters (faster, lower noise) which improve the dynamic behavior of the circuit._


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Found it.  SRM-002.


 
   
  I like the SR-003s so I also like this


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> One of these days, I'll have to audition some non-Stax 'stats. The Koss ESP/950 is out of my price range, though (going by the usual $500-600 prices), and the Sennheiser Orpheus...well, I'd have a better chance at owning an SR-007 at that rate. Maybe even the SR-009 if we're talking about the HE/90.
> 
> While we're at it, how about other obscure 'stats like the Beyerdynamic ET-1000 and this MB QUART PMB1000 I've never even heard of before? (The latter reminds me a little of the Jecklin Float and the various Ergo models, both of which also had electrostatic variants. The latter even had a Heil AMT variant. I wonder what those sound like compared to electrostatic drivers.)


 
  I have a pair of ET-1000's, they don't work very well.  Sound kind of nice but one driver will get quieter...then back to normal...then quieter...then the other driver will get quieter....etc
   
  I put a Stax cable on them and tried a Stax "normal" bias amp thinking the problem was in the ET-1000's adapter box, but they work just as poorly on the Stax amp. I have no clue what's wrong with them or how to fix them
   
  If anyone here has some tips to help me fix these Beyer ET-1000's, PLEASE let me know.  Maybe the diaphragm or diaphragm conductive coating has gone bad?  I dunno. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  There is still an AMT headphone available...the Ergo.  http://www.precide.ch/eng/eergo/ergo.htm   I've read they are bass-shy.  Never heard them, though.  Here's a Head-Fi review for you to wade through:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/193982/the-ergo-amt-review-56k-dont-even-try


----------



## J-Pak

If Stax can improve the comfort of the new portable earphone (over the 003) I am in.


----------



## catscratch

The fit consistency of the 003 needs to be improved, too. It's as hard to get a good fit with these as with any IEM I've ever come across. Practicality needs to be improved too - really, good as the 003 can sound, it's never going to compete against the Shures/UEs/Westones of the world unless it can be a practical portable alternative. I love mine to bits but I hardly use it anymore since I can never get it to fit right, or have a quiet environment where I can't use full-size headphones.

Still going to get the new version regardless, just because.


----------



## sridhar3

I wonder if there'd be a way to get custom molds done for 'em.  That'd be amazing.


----------



## Magick Man

I think they fit fine, even without the band, but I'd like for them to be a little more secure.



sridhar3 said:


> I wonder if there'd be a way to get custom molds done for 'em.  That'd be amazing.




Someone has, but I'm not sure where to go for custom molds.


----------



## pkshan

Stax said they knew the comfort issue,
   
  some parts need to remake, but they don't have the budget for mold.


----------



## vinyllp33

catscratch said:


> Still going to get the new version regardless, just because.





I just hope that there will be a new version!


----------



## rgs9200m

What is the Stax SRM-600LTD amp (at $2900) and how does it differ from, say, the 007t/ii tubed amp (at $2400)?
  Is is appropriate for an 009?
  Thanks. Just curious.


----------



## CDPlayer

Would anybody know what kind of SQ improvement out of an SR007A could be achieved by swapping the stock tubes in an SRM007tA with a set of US-made Raytheon 6CG7s?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> We've been doing a bad job of reporting on this. A prototype was revealed at spring headphone show and some headfiers may have had a chance to listen to it at the recent portable amp show (I couldn't attend). I assume it is slotted for release this fall.


 
   
  You're right...sorry!! Here's some pix at least :-
   
   

   

   

   

   

   

   
  Hard to describe but for now, all I can say is that "it's not my thing". Gotta rush off to pick up my wife, meanwhile I'll think about how to quantify that statement.


----------



## HeadFiManiac

I recently got a pair of star 009's at an old deceased man's estate auction.
   
  Not a single person wanted them.
   
  I got 'em for ten bucks!! This guy was in the audio business and had a vast collection of amps too


----------



## catscratch

Either a very good troll, or a very lucky deal. In either case, good job.


----------



## Radio_head

Same guy who started 009/BH Skyrim thread?  I call troll.


----------



## sridhar3

I sure hope so.  Troll posts are infinitely more fun than serious ones.


----------



## HeadFiManiac

It's not a troll!
   
  When they're set up for gaming I'll post some pictures


----------



## HeadFiManiac

Although this was very lucky, you have to keep in mind that I'm to invest in an amp which is about 5k...
   
  Plus... I knew the guy who died... I like to think he wanted me to have them


----------



## Radio_head

.


----------



## anetode

headfimaniac said:


> I recently got a pair of star 009's at an old deceased man's estate auction.
> 
> Not a single person wanted them.
> 
> I got 'em for ten bucks!!




I'll give you 20 for 'em...




And take your kinky crap to the pony thread.


----------



## HeadFiManiac

I will take it to the pony thread...
   
  I do have one legitimate question though while I'm here.
  I borrowed my friend Blue Hawaii SE and it took about an hour to warm up.
  Is there something wrong with it? I know that its not supposed to instantly work but is this the time one can expect.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





headfimaniac said:


> I will take it to the pony thread...
> 
> I do have one legitimate question though while I'm here.
> I borrowed my friend Blue Hawaii SE and it took about an hour to warm up.
> Is there something wrong with it? I know that its not supposed to instantly work but is this the time one can expect.


 
   
  It works fine when you turn it on.  You don't need to wait.


----------



## Radio_head

Who's your friend and what's his user name?  I ask because there are very few BHSE's out there and they're trackable.


----------



## anetode

sridhar3 said:


> It works fine when you turn it on. You don't need to wait.




That's what she said.


----------



## HeadFiManiac

He doesn't actually have an account... but I'll have him join soon
   
  How many are out there?


----------



## HeadFiManiac

Also... I believe he said he had some of the components upgraded when he ordered it


----------



## Radio_head

There is only one upgrade currently available.  Theres... less than 50 right now I believe.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> There is only one upgrade currently available.  Theres... less than 50 right now I believe.


 
   
  There may be just north of 50.  The first run was 24, and I think 32 of the current run have shipped so far.  Not 100% on that though.


----------



## Radio_head

Could be.  Checked the thread for the most recent "checking in" guy and found #48, hence my estimate.  Was a couple weeks back though.


----------



## MuppetFace

The SR-009 is a very poor choice for gaming headphones. While playing you will inevitably get all sweaty from all the intense action happening on screen, and when that occurs you will be electrocuted and die a terrible death in your underwear, your Cheeto-incrusted lips gasping for air as your hands go stiff while clutching the controller.


----------



## Magick Man

muppetface said:


> The SR-009 is a very poor choice for gaming headphones. While playing you will inevitably get all sweaty from all the intense action happening on screen, and when that occurs you will be electrocuted and die a terrible death in your underwear, your Cheeto-incrusted lips gasping for air as your hands go stiff while clutching the controller.




:blink:




On a more serous note, my GES will be here today. Much excitement.


----------



## Vicks7

magick man said:


> :blink:
> 
> On a more serous note, my GES will be here today. Much excitement.




I look forward to hearing your thoughts as I am still at a very early stage with my GES but enjoying it very much with the 009s.


----------



## sphinxvc

Just catching up on the last few pages...
   
  News of SR-002, exciting.  I might be in line.  AnakChan; please post your "quantified" thoughts.
   
  Oh, and I call troll.


----------



## HeadFiManiac

That's one way to go out


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





magick man said:


> On a more serous note, my GES will be here today. Much excitement.


 
   
  What are you currently using to drive your O2mk1?


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The SR-009 is a very poor choice for gaming headphones. While playing you will inevitably get all sweaty from all the intense action happening on screen, and when that occurs you will be electrocuted and die a terrible death in your underwear, your Cheeto-incrusted lips gasping for air as your hands go stiff while clutching the controller.


----------



## Magick Man

sridhar3 said:


> What are you currently using to drive your O2mk1?




SRM-717

GES arrived, I'll be giving it a good listen shortly.


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





magick man said:


> GES arrived, I'll be giving it a good listen shortly.


 
   
  Congrats! Do let us know how it is.


----------



## charliex

So if you got a pair of 009's for only $10, what else did you pick up at the sale and for how much - and don't tell me you didn't grab the old man's entire audio gear.


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





thinker said:


> _The new V4 amp _
> _Above you see a Class-A ultra high-end amplifier and it is said about this amplifier :"The amplifier sounds very clear and detailed. The basses are dry and strong, the frequencies at the high end are sounding very transparent. The very fine resolution of this amplifier has reached a level that will easily outplay every other amplifier out there."_
> 
> 
> ...


 
  In short the V 4 with SR-009/AR -DAC 8 /and Western Electric cables
   
   
  *much better than both Stax 727 and 600LTD amplifiers
  *sound is on the warm side of neutral
  *tube like sound added with some wichcraft (early Electrocompaniet sound from the 80's)
  *extremely natural and wide sound
  *dynamic
  *plenty of details
  *excellent PRAT
  *very deep bass
  *soundstage is almost double to 727
  *plenty of power
  *sensitive to AC
  *doesn't get hot
  *a dream match with Stax SR-009 headphones


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> There may be just north of 50.  The first run was 24, and I think 32 of the current run have shipped so far.  Not 100% on that though.


 
   
  thru #49 have all been delivered, #50-57 are burning in, and #58-65 I started to build today


----------



## yawg

Hi,
   
  I've been reading the older posts of this thread and have a question. I own a Lambda Nova Signature and a stock T1S energizer, wondering how I could improve it without major modifications. As I had some great results rolling tubes in my preamp and power amps I would appreciate some suggestions, tubes (E182CC?) and maybe caps.
   
  A friend of mine is an electronics engineer and has fixed/improved my gear many times. Looking into my T1S he said that the quality of the components was quite good.
   
  And another question: where would be the best source to get the new leather replacement earpads? I understand they fit the Nova Sigs too.
   
  TIA for your comments.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





yawg said:


> And another question: where would be the best source to get the new leather replacement earpads? I understand they fit the Nova Sigs too.


 
   
  Where are you located?
   
  In the US, you can try contacting Yama: http://STAXUSA.com/Parts/Ear-Pads/
   
  Or you can try AudioCubes2: http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/175


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





headfimaniac said:


> I recently got a pair of star 009's at an old deceased man's estate auction.
> 
> Not a single person wanted them.
> 
> I got 'em for ten bucks!! This guy was in the audio business and had a vast collection of amps too


 
  Wow!  That's great!
   
  I also had some good fortune lately.  My neighbor died, he was Ralph DeBeers, the South African ambassador.  I went to his estate sale and bought a 15,000 karat rose diamond for $5. I'll trade it for your '009's.


----------



## Magick Man

sridhar3 said:


> Congrats! Do let us know how it is.




So far I'll say, it's similar to the SRM-717 in that it's still quite detailed, but it has more joy in its soul. It isn't overly warm or lush, but it does have a sense of life and texture. It's like you can sense added breath and a tiny bit more weight to what you're hearing.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





thinker said:


> In short the V 4 with SR-009/AR -DAC 8 /and Western Electric cables
> 
> 
> *much better than both Stax 727 and 600LTD amplifiers
> ...


 
   
  Is anybody making this amp to sale like some peope the B22?


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> thru #49 have all been delivered, #50-57 are burning in, and #58-65 I started to build today


 
   
  Thanks for the correction.  In that case, Radio_head nailed it.


----------



## yawg

Hi MF,
   
  I tried AudioCubes, they don't sell them currently but promised to add them to their selection. I'm living in 
 The Netherlands.  I asked the official Stax importer in NL but got no response 
   
  Anybody can help me with advice rolling the tubes of my T1S? Is Spritzer still reading this thread?
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





magick man said:


> So far I'll say, it's similar to the SRM-717 in that it's still quite detailed, but it has more joy in its soul. It isn't overly warm or lush, but it does have a sense of life and texture. It's like you can sense added breath and a tiny bit more weight to what you're hearing.


 
   
  Glad to hear you're enjoying your GES   If you got the stock tubes, once you get used to the sound, you may want to try NOS Sylvania 6S4A and reissue Mullard 12AX7.  The Genalex 12AX7 reissues might be interesting if you aren't opposed to spending a bit more.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Hi MF,
> 
> I tried AudioCubes, they don't sell them currently but promised to add them to their selection. I'm living in
> The Netherlands.  I asked the official Stax importer in NL but got no response
> ...


 
   
  I'm still here.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  The only tubes you can use in that amp are 6CG7/6FQ7's with no substitutes.  I've always liked the Toshiba tubes made in the 60's but no matter which brand you put in there, the tube will always be straining under all that voltage.  The amp can be modified to use ECC99 which is a better tube for the job but the tube socket has to be rewired and you need to change the plate resistors to 30K/2W units.  The only downside is the slightly higher filament current so the filament voltage needs to be monitored after the mod and ditto for temperature rise in the transformer.


----------



## realmassy

yawg said:


> Hi MF,
> 
> I tried AudioCubes, they don't sell them currently but promised to add them to their selection. I'm living in
> 
> ...




Try the UK importer, they are usually quite good


----------



## Magick Man

elysian said:


> Glad to hear you're enjoying your GES   If you got the stock tubes, once you get used to the sound, you may want to try NOS Sylvania 6S4A and reissue Mullard 12AX7.  The Genalex 12AX7 reissues might be interesting if you aren't opposed to spending a bit more.




I've already swapped in a matched quad of NOS 60s Voskhod 6N2P/12AX7s, they have less warmth and more clarity than stock. They're my favorite 12AX7s. I also have an Admiral/Sylvania 6S4A quad on the way to play with.


----------



## Elysian

I remember the 6S4A replacement not making much of a difference, and I think I read one or two old posts here from people with a similar experience.  The 12AX7s seem to make a much more noticeable difference.  I definitely preferred the overall sound after tube rolling.


----------



## Magick Man

The 6S4As are to have spares, mostly, they were cheap. I thought I would try them out, however, for curiosity sake.

Edit: Oh, the GES is very good with the O2 Mk1, I like it a lot, but it's simply amazing with the 4070. A real jaw-dropper.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I remember the 6S4A replacement not making much of a difference, and I think I read one or two old posts here from people with a similar experience.  The 12AX7s seem to make a much more noticeable difference.  I definitely preferred the overall sound after tube rolling.


 
   
  To quote Kevin...
   
   
  "The second and third stages of the ges have feedback. So changing the tubes in those stages is going to have very little effect.  Besides which there are only 4 or 5 kinds of 6s4's out there ever. Now there are a million 12ax7's and you can change the sound ever so slightly by changing out the input tube. My favorites in this position are the amperex bugle boys."
   
  So bingo.


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> The SR-009 is a very poor choice for gaming headphones. While playing you will inevitably get all sweaty from all the intense action happening on screen, and when that occurs you will be electrocuted and die a terrible death in your underwear, your Cheeto-incrusted lips gasping for air as your hands go stiff while clutching the controller.


 
  No Problemo. Just wear grounded diapers.


----------



## milosz

Here's some pictures of the  Stax T2  amp
   
http://hifido.co.jp/KWstax/G1/P0/A10/E/0-10/S0/C12-64548-38255-00/


----------



## Magick Man

writereviews said:


> I'm looking at getting a taste of STAX electrostatic headphones but I don't want to go crazy past the point of diminishing return. Any recommendations for a price/performance setup?




The Koss ESP/950 setup, it's usually <$700, also there's the STAX SRS-2170 system for ~$750. Both come with earspeakers and amp. I own the Koss and it's an absolute steal for the quality of sound you get.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





writereviews said:


> I'm looking at getting a taste of STAX electrostatic headphones but I don't want to go crazy past the point of diminishing return. Any recommendations for a price/performance setup?


 
   
  I don't recommend going crazy but diminishing returns is a relative concept.  I found the 009 + BHSE to sound SO FRIGGIN smiling-like-a-fool-in-my-chair GOOD that I ended up there, with absolutely no intention of upgrading anything when I attended my first northern NJ meet 3 years ago.  Nothing takes the place of going to meets and hearing music that you bring (and know).  Only you can decide where diminishing returns are for you and your budget.  By all means ask for advice, but get out there and listen.  I started at the bottom of the stax food chain in college in the late 70s (and loved them!!) and re-entered the stax world close to the bottom of the food chain about 10 years ago, when I started listening to electrostatics again after decades of not using headphones at all.  Ending up where I am now was never ever considered a possibility as I also believe in diminishing returns, but the 009/BHSE combo presented absolutely worthwhile improvements (albeit at a non-trivial cost)..................use the 'am i smiling while hearing this?' test and you'll find your own equilibrium point.
   
  enjoy!


----------



## milosz

I got a pair of Lambda Signature Pro's and an SRM-T1 for about $1,000 on Audiogon.  Love them.  I put new earpads on the Lambdas. 
   
  I also have a pair of ESP-950's. They are also excellent, and less costly.  The ESP-950's are definitely a high end product in terms of sound, and do give you the "electrostatic" experience- but they do _not_ sound like Stax.  Are the Koss better or worse? I would say, no, they are _as good in sound quality_ as the various Lambdas out there, maybe even close to the SR-007's in some ways.  But the Koss are DIFFERENT sounding.  A different voice. If I had to characterize the Koss ESP 950 sound I would say, more bass impact and a somewhat more prominent midrange than the Stax. Good, smooth treble from the Koss, but not the same kind of 'transparent balance' that the Stax have. I like the Koss a lot, but they are _different_ from the Stax.  Only Stax sound like Stax, though Koss and Stax both offer that very low distortion, fast-transient-clarity electrostatic sound. And even though the Koss headphones use a lot of plastic- the Koss amp is mostly plastic, too- the Koss are not cheap crappy plastic headphones. For plastic, the headphones themselves are well made and fit and finish are quite good, and the plastic Koss amp hits well above it's weight- pretty good sound considering the low price of Koss amp. But in the end, only Stax are Stax.
   
  If you can, listen to both side by side and decide which you like best.  In my case, I LOVE  having BOTH!!!!!!  I like to switch off.  I'm lucky that I can have such things.


----------



## livewire

Ditto!


----------



## MorbidToaster

So I'm hearing the 009s for the first time through the LL and my Cambridge 851C.
   
  This is stupid. I hate Head-fi. 
   
  That is all.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I got a pair of Lambda Signature Pro's and an SRM-T1 for about $1,000 on Audiogon.  Love them.  I put new earpads on the Lambdas.
> 
> I also have a pair of ESP-950's. They are also excellent, and less costly.  The ESP-950's are definitely a high end product in terms of sound, and do give you the "electrostatic" experience- but they do _not_ sound like Stax.  Are the Koss better or worse? I would say, no, they are _as good in sound quality_ as the various Lambdas out there, maybe even close to the SR-007's in some ways.  But the Koss are DIFFERENT sounding.  A different voice. If I had to characterize the Koss ESP 950 sound I would say, more bass impact and a somewhat more prominent midrange than the Stax. Good, smooth treble from the Koss, but not the same kind of 'transparent balance' that the Stax have. I like the Koss a lot, but they are _different_ from the Stax.  Only Stax sound like Stax, though Koss and Stax both offer that very low distortion, fast-transient-clarity electrostatic sound. And even though the Koss headphones use a lot of plastic- the Koss amp is mostly plastic, too- the Koss are not cheap crappy plastic headphones. For plastic, the headphones themselves are well made and fit and finish are quite good, and the plastic Koss amp hits well above it's weight- pretty good sound considering the low price of Koss amp. But in the end, only Stax are Stax.
> 
> If you can, listen to both side by side and decide which you like best.  In my case, I LOVE  having BOTH!!!!!!  I like to switch off.  I'm lucky that I can have such things.


 
   
  Do you think that someone who loves the Normal bias SR-Lambda's midrange in particular would get along well with the ESP/950, even if it doesn't sound quite like Stax?
   
  Much of what I've been hearing about the ESP/950's sound presentation seems like what I'm looking for...except for the reports of a smaller soundstage, which I might find detrimental to having that "atmospheric" presentation I'm looking for.
   
  Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> So I'm hearing the 009s for the first time through the LL and my Cambridge 851C.
> 
> This is stupid. I hate Head-fi.
> 
> That is all.


 
   
  Sorry about your wallet.
   
  Sorry about my wallet too. And my sanity. Were it not for this place, I wouldn't be tempted into buying reasonably affordable Lambda setups and being forever spoiled by their sound presentation.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Do you think that someone who loves the Normal bias SR-Lambda's midrange in particular would get along well with the ESP/950, even if it doesn't sound quite like Stax?
> 
> Much of what I've been hearing about the ESP/950's sound presentation seems like what I'm looking for...except for the reports of a smaller soundstage, which I might find detrimental to having that "atmospheric" presentation I'm looking for.


 
   
  I haven't heard normal-bias Lambdas, so I can't really say.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> So I'm hearing the 009s for the first time through the LL and my Cambridge 851C.
> 
> This is stupid. I hate Head-fi.
> 
> That is all.


 
   
   
  Out of curiosity, are you regretting it - Gettting the 009 and LL ?


----------



## MorbidToaster

I'm regretting taking up Alex's offer on the demo...because now I have to actually buy one.
   
  Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Out of curiosity, are you regretting it - Gettting the 009 and LL ?


----------



## MrGreen

OT: I like the album in your picture. if you tend to like that sort of music, I agree that stax is king.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I'm regretting taking up Alex's offer on the demo...because now I have to actually buy one.


 
   
  Thanks for the response. I myself  am thinking of taking the same route


----------



## sphinxvc

To anyone, what do you figure the manufacturing cost of an SR-009 is?  
   
  I'm not thinking of overhead for warranty, R&D, Stax pensions and whatever else; _just _in terms of raw materials + manufacturing costs...


----------



## Rithrin

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> To anyone, what do you figure the manufacturing cost of an SR-009 is?
> 
> I'm not thinking of overhead for warranty, R&D, Stax pensions and whatever else; _just _in terms of raw materials + manufacturing costs...


 
   
  I would avg 400-900$ including machines, [but that is in bulk] - key. It may in fact it may even be less than that
   
  (including avg-ing machines)
   
  What you're really getting is a ****tion of engineering and expensive work from a bunch of really crazy people.
   
  In this case, they are the top, and the top (Kevin Gilmore associated) exl; i.e, have put their work into it. There are some people who's time is worth a lot of money, (the greats) and theirs is the time that I want to [bask] share in. (Inherently, their time is what I want to learn about.)
   
  THEY are the bread winners, THEY are what bring progress to the world [and humanity], or at least, the intelligent portions of it, as a whole. That is the reality of life.
   
  Unfortunately, in all the sum of it's parts, the Sr 009 would not be something easy to reciprocate - not at all. And that's not including it's shell.
   
  And as an add [HARD engineering] is something I will happily pay for. We need to support people like that (anyone who's heard the Sr 009 will probably agree with me).
   
  {Slight grammatical edit: 11:02pm}


----------



## forbigger

I'd say COGS will be around 1k or less. Add another 1k for R&D. The rest is gross profit.


----------



## Magick Man

Paying for parts, labor, support, rent, R&D, promotion, front office, etc.. I'd put it at around $3k, once everything like that is factored in. They then sell to the dealers for $4k, which leaves $1k in net profit. That's not too bad, but they aren't making a killing.


----------



## Radio_head

I would be surprised if the markup was that low - I don't know otherwise in this case, but most high end electronics out there makes a minimum of 100% profit out the gate before it even gets to distributors, who usually tack on at least another 60% or so (which is arranged with the manufacturer as being MSRP).  And those are the "good deals."
   
  Then again, Stax has been in/near bankruptcy so many times that perhaps they actually have some insanely low markup compared to costs/R&D.


----------



## Magick Man

radio_head said:


> I would be surprised if the markup was that low - I don't know otherwise in this case, but most high end electronics out there makes a minimum of 100% profit out the gate before it even gets to distributors, who usually tack on at least another 60% or so (which is arranged with the manufacturer as being MSRP).  And those are the "good deals."
> 
> Then again, Stax has been in/near bankruptcy so many times that perhaps they actually have some insanely low markup compared to costs/R&D.




That's what I was thinking about. If they were making 100% profit they likely wouldn't be struggling to "keep the doors open" most of the time.


----------



## spritzer

Let's put it this way, hold a SR-007Mk2 in one hand and a HD800 in the other.  Which is better built,has more advanced technology and requires more hand assembly?  If the currency situation was normal then they would be similarly priced...


----------



## Elysian

Lol.  The HD800 feels like a cheap piece of plastic with flimsy pads compared to the SR007A.  I also prefer the rounded edges on the SR007 over the SR009.  I'm always worried about scratching or denting the SR009, and the SR007 just has a very sturdy, well-engineered feel to it.  It's still the most comfortable headphone I've ever worn with MK2 pads.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> I would be surprised if the markup was that low - I don't know otherwise in this case, but most high end electronics out there makes a minimum of 100% profit out the gate before it even gets to distributors, who usually tack on at least another 60% or so (which is arranged with the manufacturer as being MSRP).  And those are the "good deals."
> 
> Then again, Stax has been in/near bankruptcy so many times that perhaps they actually have some insanely low markup compared to costs/R&D.


 
  I agree with on what you are stating for most of elecronics but in the case of the SR-009 I know the retailers markup is just 20%.


----------



## forbigger

20% is also quite a lot looking at the $ terms. from what i know, a lot of retailers did not actually stock 009. they only take from distributor when there's a demand. as many as we can see people here using 009, in reality most people would fainted if you told them you owned $5k headphone that you cannot plug to ipod.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Lol.  The HD800 feels like a cheap piece of plastic with flimsy pads compared to the SR007A.  I also prefer the rounded edges on the SR007 over the SR009.  I'm always worried about scratching or denting the SR009, and the SR007 just has a very sturdy, well-engineered feel to it.  It's still the most comfortable headphone I've ever worn with MK2 pads.


 
  That's totally not true. From the photos it gives that impression but holding it in person is far from that.


----------



## milosz

How many pairs of SR-009's go you suppose has sold?  500?  1,000?


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I agree with on what you are stating for most of elecronics but in the case of the SR-009 I know the retailers markup is just 20%.


 
  Price Japan has them just under $4K (not shipped), so 20% makes sense if you include shipping costs and anything else to the US.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> That's totally not true. From the photos it gives that impression but holding it in person is far from that.


 
   
  My impressions are based off of first-hand use, not photos.  I had an SR009 from extended loan from a friend for a month, have had the HD800 on loan, and own the SR007A.
   
  I was extremely unimpressed by the build quality of the HD800.  The SR009 was ok but not my cup of tea.  It also didn't feel as sturdy as the SR007 to me, but maybe I was overly concerned about cosmetically damaging someone else's $5k headphones.  The SR009 edged sides seem like they would easily pick up scratches and dents over time.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





elysian said:


> My impressions are based off of first-hand use, not photos.  I had an SR009 from extended loan from a friend for a month, have had the HD800 on loan, and own the SR007A.
> 
> I was extremely unimpressed by the build quality of the HD800.  The SR009 was ok but not my cup of tea.  It also didn't feel as sturdy as the SR007 to me, but maybe I was overly concerned about cosmetically damaging someone else's $5k headphones.  The SR009 edged sides seem like they would easily pick up scratches and dents over time.


 
  Then I would say you have a special hate for the HD800 and a secret love for the 007. The HD800 feels like a very well designed piece of engeering but the 009 suppressed it.


----------



## Magick Man

boogiewoogie said:


> Then I would say you have a special hate for the HD800 and a secret love for the 007. The HD800 feels like a very well designed piece of engeering but the 009 suppressed it.




I wouldn't say that. I also feel the HD800 is bit flimsy compared to the O2 Mk1, but it's like comparing a baseball bat made out of wood to another made out of aluminum. They're both going to hold up quite well with sensible use.


----------



## nattonrice

In the hand the quality of the plastics on the hd800 seems good.
  Doesn't stop it feeling a little cheap when side by side with other headphones made with more metallic materials.


----------



## MrGreen

Electrostats aren't really that hard to produce. So I'd say the markup is huge


----------



## MuppetFace

Oh. This ol' chestnut again.
   
  That Stax, charging their 99% markup on the SR-009 they Macgyvered out of paperclips and gum wrappers.


----------



## DaveBSC

Stax was rolling in so much cash from their electrostats that they imploded, came back vastly reduced in scope, and were then bought out for the amount of money Sennheiser has in their couch cushions. Those bastards.


----------



## padam

The earthquake and its effects (Japanese yen getting even stronger) didn't help them, either.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Electrostats aren't really that hard to produce. So I'd say the markup is huge


 
  I agree with this a lot.  It is much easier to engineer and manufacture an electrostat.  The technology itself makes puts it ahead in both sound quality and ease of build.
  Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Oh. This ol' chestnut again.
> 
> That Stax, charging their 99% markup on the SR-009 they Macgyvered out of paperclips and gum wrappers.


 
  I wouldn't say that, but from an engineering prospective, I really can't see them costing more than ~$1000 to make.  Although, now I really want to make an electrostat out of paperclips and gum wrappers just to make a point...  (which point that is, I don't know)
  Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Stax was rolling in so much cash from their electrostats that they imploded, came back vastly reduced in scope, and were then bought out for the amount of money Sennheiser has in their couch cushions. Those bastards.


 
  It would help if they were halfway easy to get.  I can't stress this enough.  It is a complete and utter pain in the ass to get a new pair.  Why can't they just work a little to make them available on Amazon or something.
   
  Just saying, by all the comments, I just look like a complete noob.


----------



## spritzer

Start ripping the HD800 apart and you see just how crap the build quality really is.  For instace, how the pads are attached compared to something like the HE90 setup (which is probably cheaper to accomplish).  Still a lovely sounding headphone though. 
   
  Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> Electrostats aren't really that hard to produce. So I'd say the markup is huge


 
   
  If you don't care about matching or them lasting beyond the year then they are easy to make but if you want low distortion and for the drivers to last 50 years then they are quite costly.  No dynamic driver needs to be assembled in a clean room or manufactured to these tolerances.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Jack is about it for 009s in the US as far as 'easy to get goes'...as far as I know anyway. 
   
  I can completely agree with this because of that. They're pretty tough to get your hands on.
   
  Quote: 





linuxid10t said:


> It would help if they were halfway easy to get.  I can't stress this enough.  It is a complete and utter pain in the ass to get a new pair.  Why can't they just work a little to make them available on Amazon or something.
> 
> Just saying, by all the comments, I just look like a complete noob.


----------



## Magick Man

davebsc said:


> Stax was rolling in so much cash from their electrostats that they imploded, came back vastly reduced in scope, and were then bought out for the amount of money Sennheiser has in their couch cushions. Those bastards.




No doubt. If they made any more money they'd probably be able to feed their families. Jerks.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No dynamic driver needs to be assembled in a clean room or manufactured to these tolerances.


 
  I'm sure the people that designed the Sennheiser HD800 would disagree with you.


----------



## Magick Man

morbidtoaster said:


> Jack is about it for 009s in the US as far as 'easy to get goes'...as far as I know anyway.
> 
> I can completely agree with this because of that. They're pretty tough to get your hands on.




joynetcafe on ebay looks looks like a reliable source (100% pos feedback) and $4950 appears to be a little high but not ridiculous, all things considered. PriceJapan with shipping, currency conversion, and paypal fees shows me $4531. Hmm, that's actually pretty good.

The SR-009 is a good match with the GES, isn't it?


----------



## MorbidToaster

PriceJapan would probably be the way to go. I avoid eBay like the plague and Jack wants $5200 bucks (!!).
   
  Quote: 





magick man said:


> joynetcafe on ebay looks looks like a reliable source (100% pos feedback) and $4950 appears to be a little high but not ridiculous, all things considered. PriceJapan with shipping, currency conversion, and paypal fees shows me $4531. Hmm, that's actually pretty good.
> The SR-009 is a good match with the GES, isn't it?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





linuxid10t said:


> I'm sure the people that designed the Sennheiser HD800 would disagree with you.


 
   
  Having talked to those people in person I know this isn't true.  They are still well aware just how much more complicated ES drivers are.


----------



## Magick Man

morbidtoaster said:


> PriceJapan would probably be the way to go. I avoid eBay like the plague and Jack wants $5200 bucks (!!).




I like Woo and love my GES, but that's too dear, IMO.


----------



## MrGreen

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If you don't care about matching or them lasting beyond the year then they are easy to make but if you want low distortion and for the drivers to last 50 years then they are quite costly.  No dynamic driver needs to be assembled in a clean room or manufactured to these tolerances.


 

 CLEAN ROOMS ARE A MYTH!

 Just kidding, that's a hard drive joke.

 Do you have a source for your information? You've always been reliable for information, but I'd like to read it - because I assume it has more information about electrostats.
   
  I'm not sure I agree on your suggestion that electrostatic drivers are more complex. Is there really much more to it than being a big sandwich of thn materials?

 A large number of electrostatic drivers are deceptively strong for their size (generally more so than their dynamic counterparts). However, I would say that dynamic headphones are a more machined process than electrostats. I would say, that the most costly R&D would go into making "new" electrostats; unique capacities, spacings, width. But I can't remember the last time stax did that personally.

 But I guess I am shocked when I see the simplicity of a magnet glued to a piece of paper in way older dynamics.


----------



## Pettnolf

magick man said:


> joynetcafe on ebay looks looks like a reliable source (100% pos feedback) and $4950 appears to be a little high but not ridiculous, all things considered. PriceJapan with shipping, currency conversion, and paypal fees shows me $4531. Hmm, that's actually pretty good.
> The SR-009 is a good match with the GES, isn't it?




I certainly hope the 009 and the ges will turn out to be a good match! Will probably receive the ges next week or so. Will post my impressions then.

I can only recommend pricejapan for the 009. Quick shipping and well packaged.

Comparing the build-quality of the hd800 to the 009 is hard since both are very well built imo. They should both last at least 20-30 years with proper care.
However the general feel of the headphones in your hands are miles apart. The 009 looks and feels so much more luxurious. That the paint on the plastic is prone to get scratched off doesn't help either. Shame on such wonderful sounding phones.


----------



## Magick Man

pettnolf said:


> I certainly hope the 009 and the ges will turn out to be a good match! Will probably receive the ges next week or so. Will post my impressions then.
> I can only recommend pricejapan for the 009. Quick shipping and well packaged.
> Comparing the build-quality of the hd800 to the 009 is hard since both are very well built imo. They should both last at least 20-30 years with proper care.
> However the general feel of the headphones in your hands are miles apart. The 009 looks and feels so much more luxurious. That the paint on the plastic is prone to get scratched off doesn't help either. Shame on such wonderful sounding phones.




Cool beans, that's good to hear. I've claimed that I'm not really interested in the 009s, but after reading about the synergy between the modestly priced GES and the STAX flagship I'm starting to waver. This hobby is going to get me murderized. lol

Oh, one way to avoid the paint issue with the HD800s is to get them via Colorware. The paint they use, the way I understand it, is more durable than what they come with from the factory. You still only pay regular retail, and you get whatever color scheme you want. That's a win all the way around, IMO.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





linuxid10t said:


> It would help if they were halfway easy to get.  I can't stress this enough.  It is a complete and utter pain in the ass to get a new pair.  Why can't they just work a little to make them available on Amazon or something.


 
   
  If they really were rolling in dough, they'd have the money to set up a proper US distribution network and you could get the SR-009 at Best Buy. At least there are a few US dealers and a theoretical service center. It could be worse, Japan could be the _only _option for buying and servicing. Try getting a W3000 from Amazon.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> If they really were rolling in dough, they'd have the money to set up a proper US distribution network and you could get the SR-009 at Best Buy. At least there are a few US dealers and a theoretical service center. It could be worse, Japan could be the _only _option for buying and servicing. Try getting a W3000 from Amazon.


 
   
  But you cant really blame them, its not really worth the hassle for them to go to all that trouble considering the size of the market for their headphones here in the US. Its just not worth the cost to set that up, for the paultry number of cans that they will end up selling here.
   
  Sure i agree that its kind of ****ty, but high end headphones are a niche of a niche here in the states, whereas headphones are big business in japan.


----------



## J-Pak

Amos or arnaud any more info on the new porta-Stax?


----------



## Magick Man

Frak, I just ordered a set of 009s from PriceJapan. I need to have my head examined. :confused_face_2:


----------



## anetode

Stats are deceptively simple, I appreciate that Stax takes a perfectionist approach to their assembly. The SR-009 are a hit, but we're still talking about small numbers in relation to any other headphone. With such low volume I could see the diaphragm, electrodes and machined cups contributing a lot to the price before you even get to putting everything together.



magick man said:


> joynetcafe on ebay looks looks like a reliable source (100% pos feedback) and $4950 appears to be a little high but not ridiculous, all things considered. PriceJapan with shipping, currency conversion, and paypal fees shows me $4531. Hmm, that's actually pretty good.
> The SR-009 is a good match with the GES, isn't it?




I've bought zwei Staxen from joynetcafe with no issues, they have a solid sales record.


----------



## linuxid10t

davebsc said:


> If they really were rolling in dough, they'd have the money to set up a proper US distribution network and you could get the SR-009 at Best Buy. At least there are a few US dealers and a theoretical service center. It could be worse, Japan could be the _only_ option for buying and servicing. Try getting a W3000 from Amazon.




I'm not even suggesting proper, I mean like a partnership with a small audio store in America that sells through Amazon. They would get a lot more sales that way I'd recon'.


----------



## Radio_head

And a lot more returns from the same people who are buying up the 7100's to try and then returning them.  The seller loses $500-$1000 immediately because they have to re-sell that same headphone used.
   
  Doesn't need to be Amazon, but somebody with a functioning website, good customer service, and decent prices.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Frak, I just ordered a set of 009s from PriceJapan. I need to have my head examined.


 
   
  Definitely not, have you heard them before? Cause when i heard them, i seriously couldnt wipe the **** eating grin off of my face...no matter how hard i tried. I've never had a headphone do that before, and that alone would be worth it i would think.


----------



## MuppetFace

I thought the SR-009 was as good as it gets, but then I heard the original SR-Omega which I actually prefer slightly.


----------



## MorbidToaster

souprknowva said:


> Definitely not, have you heard them before? Cause when i heard them, i seriously couldnt wipe the **** eating grin off of my face...no matter how hard i tried. I've never had a headphone do that before, and that alone would be worth it i would think.




Pretty much my reaction the first time I heard them a few days ago. Speaking of which...Alex is taking them both back tomorrow and until my LF and HD800s sell I'll be without. This is gonna be awful.


----------



## Magick Man

souprknowva said:


> Definitely not, have you heard them before? Cause when i heard them, i seriously couldnt wipe the **** eating grin off of my face...no matter how hard i tried. I've never had a headphone do that before, and that alone would be worth it i would think.




I have, a couple times. Once with the 727 Mk2 and another with the RSA A-10. Side by side, with the 727, I thought the 007Mk1 was more musical and the 009 a little bright.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I could see that. I honestly find it more bright than my HD800, but I get less ringing at roughly the same (too loud) volume.
   
  Quote: 





magick man said:


> I have, a couple times. Once with the 727 Mk2 and another with the RSA A-10. Side by side, with the 727, I thought the 007Mk1 was more musical and the *009 a little bright.*


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





magick man said:


> I have, a couple times. Once with the 727 Mk2 and another with the RSA A-10. Side by side, with the 727, I thought the 007Mk1 was more musical and the 009 a little bright.


 
   
  Haha now i really do agree that you need to have your head examined 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you werent blown away by them, why drop the not so paultry sum of money on them?


----------



## Magick Man

souprknowva said:


> Haha now i really do agree that you need to have your head examined   If you werent blown away by them, why drop the not so paultry sum of money on them?




I'm hearing the GES does a very good job mellowing them, and I'd really like to have them just for their detail.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





rithrin said:


> I would avg 400-900$ including machines, [but that is in bulk] - key. It may in fact it may even be less than that
> 
> (including avg-ing machines)
> 
> ...


 
  totally agree we need to support these rare kind of folks


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





linuxid10t said:


> I'm not even suggesting proper, I mean like a partnership with a small audio store in America that sells through Amazon. They would get a lot more sales that way I'd recon'.


 
   
  Amazon would be a poor partner for a low volume, high unit cost operation like Stax.  Amazon has a very well-known reputation in tech for being a great consumer partner and a very demanding distributor partner.  All the costs of consumer idiocy would be passed onto Stax and Stax's US distribution partner, and due to Stax's limited throughput, a handful of 1 star reviews from users who can't figure out how to plug their Stax Pro plug into their computer sound card port would do a lot of damage to Stax's reputation due to SEO.
   
  Given how many years Amazon has been around, there's probably a good reason why most luxury goods dealers (including high-end audiophile manufacturers) steer clear of Amazon for low volume goods that are specialty and premium.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> CLEAN ROOMS ARE A MYTH!
> 
> Just kidding, that's a hard drive joke.
> 
> ...


 
  There was a Stax interview few years ago, in a japanese magazine.
  (since english is not my mother language, I translate it as good as I can):
   
  Most parts of the drivers are handmade.
  1.Preparation: First, the diaphragm & dust cover,  Attach the mylar diaphragm to the metal frame,
  The diaphragm must be totally flat,no folds,the method is secret.
  Then the dust cover, use fingers to rub it, slowly,This will add folds on it, to avoid frequency resonance,  it takes 30 hours.
  Every metal frame is washed & cleaned carefully, to remove small metal wires. the painting of the stators is a time consuming work too.
  These preparations takes a lot of time
   
  2.Assembly: The electrostatic drivers are assembled in a clean room,
  there has a dedicated vacuum cleaner, The workers are wearing white clothes.
  Under a magnifier, they use tapes to remove any dust on the parts .then assemble them.
   
  3.Inspection: They use a 40years old, handmade measuring instrument to do this.
  Measure the sensitivity, tension etc of  each driver,and some noise tests,
  then matching them. after these, the drivers are put in a box with hygroscopic agent.delivered to the headphone assembly factory.
  Because the diaphragm will stretch when temperature changes, the storage temperature is controlled at 20'C....


----------



## MrGreen

Awesome post.

 Thank you very much


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *pkshan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> ....Then the dust conver, use finger to rub it, slowly,This will add folds on it, to avoid frequency resonance,  it takes 30 hours.....


 
   
   
  Some worker sits there for 30 hours and rubs the dust cover with his finger-?   I can't quite picture this.....


----------



## milosz

PRICE OPINIONS?
   
  What do you guys think a good price for buying an SRM-1 / MK2  would be?
   
  What about an SRM-7? (pro bias)


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Some worker sits there for 30 hours and rubs the dust cover with his finger-?   I can't quite picture this.....


 
   
  I can in China.  Oops, did I say that out loud?


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> I can in Xxxxx.


 
  Fixed.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





pkshan said:


>


 
   
  Is he the guy who has to rub the dust covers for 30 hours?
   
  Judging by his expression, _I want to think "yes."_


----------



## arnaud

muppetface said:


> Is he the guy who has to rub the dust covers for 30 hours?
> 
> Judging by his expression, _I want to think "yes."_




This "guy" as you say is the current president if I am not mistaken. The other gentleman is the sales director. Pay some respect...


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This "guy" as you say is the current president if I am not mistaken. The other gentleman is the sales director. Pay some respect...


 
   
  It was a comment made in good humor.
   
  Actions speak louder than words, and I've certainly done my share to support Stax over the years by using their products. I only have the utmost respect for what they do.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





elysian said:


> All the costs of consumer idiocy would be passed onto Stax and Stax's US distribution partner, and due to Stax's limited throughput, a handful of 1 star reviews from users who can't figure out how to plug their Stax Pro plug into their computer sound card port would do a lot of damage to Stax's reputation due to SEO.


 
   




   
  the same folks who found the coffee cup holder on their pc to be so flimsy when ejected


----------



## sphinxvc

I'm surprised Stax _has_ a sales director.
   
  He looks well-rested.


----------



## Magick Man

arnaud said:


> This "guy" as you say is the current president if I am not mistaken. The other gentleman is the sales director. Pay some respect...




I think your humor sensor is out of alignment.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





magick man said:


> I think your humor sensor is out of alignment.


 
   
  Chalk it up to text's limitations at communicating intent.  I can see both MF and arnaud's point, and arnaud's previous posts have indicated that he does, in fact, have a sense of humor 
   
  Does Stax do all their assembly in-house?  That's pretty amazing, given that the company's about a dozen people.


----------



## schorsch

Hello,
   
  today I received my (used) SR007MK2. I biught it from a local dealer and plugged it in and was astonished. Very good ..... But isn't there TOO much bass? The bass quality is awesome but to me it sounds as if there is too much. I used the SRA14S. I will take my other amps and try out...
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## MorbidToaster

Now you guys have me curious about hearing these again.
   
  Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Hello,
> 
> today I received my (used) SR007MK2. I biught it from a local dealer and plugged it in and was astonished. Very good ..... But isn't there TOO much bass? The bass quality is awesome but to me it sounds as if there is too much. I used the SRA14S. I will take my other amps and try out...
> 
> Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> CLEAN ROOMS ARE A MYTH!
> 
> Just kidding, that's a hard drive joke.
> 
> ...


 
   
  My sources are Stax and my discussion with them.  With electrostatics they look simple but get down to the nitty gritty and they become quite hard to make.  For the low distortion you need perfectly parallel stators which are completely uniform.  The diaphragm has to be absolutely in the center and function correctly as a constant charge.  Then we come the often misunderstood issue of power and how much energy the drivers will have to dissipate under full load and how that affects the super tight tolerances.  Remember the diaphragm to stator distance is only 0.5mm or 500um for a Stax Pro bias model.  Then we have the whole issue of how to properly tension the diaphragm and heat treat it plus the coating.   Just ask any of the Quad ESL specialists and they'll tell you the horror stories. 
   
  The new x07 series all have new drivers which use very little of the older type and the SR-009 drivers are state of the art in every way and Stax have never done anything like that before.


----------



## MorbidToaster

So PriceJapan quoted me 4426 to my door (via DHL)...and Jack wants 5200. That's brutal. I can only assume PriceJapan is legit since it seems Head-fiers use them frequently.
   
  EDIT: The difference will pretty much buy me my 2M Black, so I'm very interested.


----------



## Elysian

I believe the difference is that Jack is an official Stax distributor, so if you have warranty issues you're covered.  If you buy through PriceJapan, I believe you don't have as much recourse if you're unlucky to have an issue with your SR009s.


----------



## MorbidToaster

That's what I figured. Guess Jack would be the choice, then.
   
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> I believe the difference is that Jack is an official Stax distributor, so if you have warranty issues you're covered.  If you buy through PriceJapan, I believe you don't have as much recourse if you're unlucky to have an issue with your SR009s.


----------



## Magick Man

morbidtoaster said:


> So PriceJapan quoted me 4426 to my door (via DHL)...and Jack wants 5200. That's brutal. I can only assume PriceJapan is legit since it seems Head-fiers use them frequently.
> 
> EDIT: The difference will pretty much buy me my 2M Black, so I'm very interested.




Well, it's 4426 if you want to do wire transfer, which made me a little nervous. I felt safer using my AmEx through Paypal, two extra layers of protection and a 2 year warranty. That's worth an extra $100 to me.


----------



## cat6man

I got my 009 from elusive disc.  A number of times per year, they have a 10% off sale that includes everything, even the things labeled otherwise.  That gets you down in < $4700 range, includes US warranty and you can pay with AMEX so you get the extra warranty coverage...........plus shipping was free.
   
  When will they do it again?  I don't know, perhaps labor day weekend?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Where's that option? I just quoted and didn't go beyond that.
   
  Also, is it like... 'their warranty' or Stax?
   
  Quote: 





magick man said:


> Well, it's 4426 if you want to do wire transfer, which made me a little nervous. I felt safer using my AmEx through Paypal, two extra layers of protection and a 2 year warranty. That's worth an extra $100 to me.


----------



## Magick Man

morbidtoaster said:


> Where's that option? I just quoted and didn't go beyond that.
> 
> Also, is it like... 'their warranty' or Stax?




It's a couple steps beyond where the price w/ shipping is quoted, and that's the AmEx warranty.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> I got my 009 from elusive disc.  A number of times per year, they have a 10% off sale that includes everything, even the things labeled otherwise.  That gets you down in < $4700 range, includes US warranty and you can pay with AMEX so you get the extra warranty coverage...........plus shipping was free.
> 
> When will they do it again?  I don't know, perhaps labor day weekend?


 
   
  I'm pretty sure Elusive Disc's 10% sale does not cover Stax gear.  There's a big disclaimer in the body of all their Stax equipment.  I remember looking at them when I was considering getting a SR009 during the sale.
   
  http://www.elusivedisc.com/products.asp?dept=1212
STAX SR-009 OPEN BACK HEADPHONES
*New for 2011!!! The NEW flagship model from STAX!
 The STAX SR-009 Headphones are selling fast!!!
 Limited Quantities Available! Order Now or Miss Out!*
STAX Authorized Web Dealer!
This item not eligible for any further discount offers!


----------



## Radio_head

It is.  I asked them last time.


----------



## anetode

mmm... i love having my dust cover slowly massaged by elderly japanese men


----------



## justin w.

I'm assuming there's something lost in translation about the hand-rubbing of the dust cover for 30 hours


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





elysian said:


> I'm pretty sure Elusive Disc's 10% sale does not cover Stax gear.  There's a big disclaimer in the body of all their Stax equipment.  I remember looking at them when I was considering getting a SR009 during the sale.
> 
> http://www.elusivedisc.com/products.asp?dept=1212
> STAX SR-009 OPEN BACK HEADPHONES
> ...


 
   
  sorry, you're wrong.
   
  and as I stated, the discount DOES apply even to the stuff that says it doesn't, i.e. 'not eligible for further discount'.............they don't change the disclaimer in the Stax product ad BUT the discount announcement clearly states that it does apply and not to worry about the disclaimer.............it saved me over $500
   
  amazingly, the 009 was listed as back ordered the day i ordered, and it arrived the next day (some how, they must have had one)
   
  i don't know if it applies to every sale they have, but it was applicable to stax for both of the sales they've had since i got my BHSE (and hence was anguishing over purchasing the 009 so soon after)
   
  i also got my previous 404LE from elusive disc and am very happy with everything i've gotten from them.


----------



## Nebby

hand-polished perhaps?


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> I'm assuming there's something lost in translation about the hand-rubbing of the dust cover for 30 hours


 
   
  you think??


----------



## NamelessPFG

Let me put it this way: if electrostatic drivers were as simple to properly make as they look, then I could easily fix my separated SR-303 right driver by gluing it back together and getting NO imbalance.
   
  Admitted, I made some mistakes (especially the type of glue to use), but those tolerances must be REALLY tight given how much I have to adjust the balance for a reasonably balanced sound.
   
  As for the 30-hour dust cover massage, I guess it's kind of like Kobe beef, except you're not going to eat it.


----------



## Pettnolf

magick man said:


> Well, it's 4426 if you want to do wire transfer, which made me a little nervous. I felt safer using my AmEx through Paypal, two extra layers of protection and a 2 year warranty. That's worth an extra $100 to me.




I went with bank-transfer and ems which is what they recommended over dhl. Worked like a charm.

If you trust the company wiring the money is superior imo. I saved roughly 5% since I didn't get ripped off by paypal first by the 3,5% and then by the horrendous currency exchange rate.


----------



## Magick Man

For me, DHL is 3 days and EMS is 10. Also, I don't like doing bank wire, unless I know the person. 3.5% (I got a good rate) is a bargain for peace of mind and extended warranty through AmEx.


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> and as I stated, the discount DOES apply even to the stuff that says it doesn't, i.e. 'not eligible for further discount'.............they don't change the disclaimer in the Stax product ad BUT the discount announcement clearly states that it does apply and not to worry about the disclaimer.............it saved me over $500


 
   
  If it does apply, then I can see plenty of people being fine with the $150-300 premium over Pricejapan, depending on whatever the exchange rate is, for the warranty protection.


----------



## musicman59

Yes, it does apply. I know a person that bought the SR-009 and SRM727II in early January with the 10% discount and paid $6,700 for both.


----------



## MrGreen

This is mostly aimed at people with technical knowledge about the repair of electrostats.

 1. What usually causes "buzzing" in an electrostatic speaker?
  2. How hard is it to fix this buzzing?
  3. Is it impossible to truly repair an electrostatic speaker to its original state if parts for it are long gone?
 Is it difficult to adjust the volatge input (from 100V to 240V) on older ESLs?
  How prone are ESLs to damage during shipping?


----------



## n3rdling

Which in specific are you talking about?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> This is mostly aimed at people with technical knowledge about the repair of electrostats.
> 
> 1. What usually causes "buzzing" in an electrostatic speaker? * <= Diaphragm is damaged / been arced*
> 2. How hard is it to fix this buzzing? *<= Pretty hard.  Have to replace diaphragm and dust covers, usually. Requires skill and certain materials.  But there are people out there who have mastered this skill. The materials are available.*
> ...


 
   
  There are people / firms out there who fix electrostatic speakers. Google is your friend and can help you find them.


----------



## MuppetFace

Humidity issues might cause crackling and buzzing, too. If you're talking about a pair of headphones rather than a fullsized speaker, try putting them in a box with some silica for a few days maybe?


----------



## arnaud

Can't dust cause buzzing too?


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Humidity issues might cause crackling and buzzing, too. If you're talking about a pair of headphones rather than a fullsized speaker, try putting them in a box with some silica for a few days maybe?


 
  *opens windows*
  *reads*
  *closes windows*


----------



## nattonrice

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> This is mostly aimed at people with technical knowledge about the repair of electrostats.


 
   
  I have a very strong recollection of reading about someone in Perth who specializes in repairing old Quad panels (I'm taking a punt here that's what you have).
  Pretty sure I read this on SNA so I'd check/ask there.


----------



## MuppetFace

http://www.quad-musik.de/html/quad_english.html


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





mrgreen said:


> This is mostly aimed at people with technical knowledge about the repair of electrostats.
> 
> 1. What usually causes "buzzing" in an electrostatic speaker?
> 2. How hard is it to fix this buzzing?
> ...


 
   
  If by ESL you mean 57 and 63 (and not using it as a generic term to encompass all electrostatic speakers), then those two speakers can be fully rebuilt from the ground up by companies in the US and UK.
   
  There is someone that posted info on the other forum about DIY repairing his ESL63 panels.
   
  The two companies in the US will sell you custom crates for shipping and if shipped by truck on a palette with a private shipping company, you're pretty much guaranteed that no damage will come to them. When they are strapped down to a palette there is no one throwing/handling the package.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





elysian said:


> If it does apply, then I can see plenty of people being fine with the $150-300 premium over Pricejapan, depending on whatever the exchange rate is, for the warranty protection.


 
   
   
  i saved the elusive disc email, from which this image is copied.  i'm on their mailing list so i get notified of sales, otherwise i guess you just have to go to their web page often.
  sales are usually around US holidays, so labor day weekend is a potential next sale date (just guessing).


----------



## kevin gilmore

All of the QUAD esl speakers i have ever seen, and i still own a pair, have a voltage switch built in.
  That will be the least of your problems. The charging voltage is only a few watts, so for any of the
  other electrostats, the smallest of 110/220 transformers would also work great. Things with
  built in amplifiers (accoustats et all) are a completely different story.
   
  If its buzzing you have holes in the diaphram. Or lots of accumulated dust.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> As for the 30-hour dust cover massage, I guess it's kind of like Kobe beef, except you're not going to eat it.


 
   
   
  love that comparison!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Can't dust cause buzzing too?


 
   
  That is the main cause with headphones.  The voltages are too low and the safety margins too high for humidity to become an issue.


----------



## MrGreen

The electrostat panel I am talking about is a Quad ESL 63 and also a stax ELS-4A.
 The quad has very bad damage, the sta ELS-4A has "quiet buzzing in one panel".

 I don't own the speakers so I can't comment - it's hard to find an ELS in perth that isn't thousands of dollars, so I am looking at cheaper options.

 I was thinking maybe it could be the conductive coating in the 4A, because of its age???

 Both speakers look fantastic, so I'm not sure how the panels could be damaged.
  Is it just a good idea to stay completely away from buzzing ESLs?


----------



## forbigger

@morbid - try to haggle with jack. i have a feeling he can be flexible.
   
  i seriously doubt any authorized stax distributor have a facility to repair any broken/problematic headphone. we are at the mercy of stax japan, they will just send the headphone to japan for repair. imho, buying from any stax distributor worldwide shouldnt make any difference as all of the headphone will end up @saitama anyway. its just that if you buy from distributor outside your country (and provided your country have distributorship), you may have to send it over to the distributor and in turn they will send it to japan, so double shipping


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> @morbid - try to haggle with jack. i have a feeling he can be flexible.
> 
> i seriously doubt any authorized stax distributor have a facility to repair any broken/problematic headphone. we are at the mercy of stax japan, they will just send the headphone to japan for repair. imho, buying from any stax distributor worldwide shouldnt make any difference as all of the headphone will end up @saitama anyway. its just that if you buy from distributor outside your country (and provided your country have distributorship), you may have to send it over to the distributor and in turn they will send it to japan, so double shipping


 
  i dont think the ebay sellers from Japan are in the business of helping you with your warranty repair


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> @morbid - try to haggle with jack. i have a feeling he can be flexible.


 
   
  Yeah, about that... not so much.


----------



## forbigger

justin - then in that case ones can directly send the headphones to stax complete with warranty card for repair ? isnt that the case ? the warranty structure of stax is a very basic ones. or primitive should i say. and the distribution channel also a mess.
   
  sridhar - if jack is not flexible then i have nothing to say. i have never heard people that i know buying 007/009 @msrp


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> justin - then in that case ones can directly send the headphones to stax complete with warranty card for repair ? isnt that the case ? the warranty structure of stax is a very basic ones. or primitive should i say. and the distribution channel also a mess.


 
   
  not sure, but i don't know if Stax would accept your claim.  it would be considered a gray market sale


----------



## forbigger

beg to differ on that. it will be considered a gray market product at the service center in your home country. since stax did not (i assume) have any service center around the world and the only service center is at saitama, how can you say the product is grey market?


----------



## vinyllp33

Yes,
   
  That is where it gets dicey.
   
  Yama (the USA distributor) have had their issues to be sure, but at the end of the day if you have a pair of headphones purchased from an Authorized USA dealer they will be there to help you out; Even though this may facilitiate having them sent to Stax Japan for servicing.
   
  If one purchases direct from Japan the USA distributor will not issue a Return Authorization so you would have to deal directly with Stax and the warranty card states that it is only valid in Japan so they may very well consider it a "gray-market" sale.
   
  I am betting Elusive Disc will offer their all-inclusive 10% off come Labor Day, that would bring the cost to only about $100 higher than Price Japan (payment via PayPal); This was totally worth it for me for long-term peace-of-mind.


----------



## Nebby

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> beg to differ on that. it will be considered a gray market product at the service center in your home country. since stax did not (i assume) have any service center around the world and the only service center is at saitama, how can you say the product is grey market?


 
   
  They specifically state on their web page that the Japanese warranty card is only valid for Japanese market. If you ship a headphone directly to their service center it would be very obvious that the package did not originate within Japan, let alone arrive with a RMA.


----------



## CDPlayer

From http://www.pricejapan.com/front/e_warranty.php:
   
  Quote: 





> Warranty is valid only in Japan for 1 year. It is not valid in your country.
> International warranty or more than 1 year warranty will NOT be applied.
> When machines need warrant repair, you should send machines to makers in Japan, via us.
> Shipping cost of Item's round trip will be your burden(roughly $150-300 in case of projectors)
> ...


 
   
  There are a few more interesting points there on that page; please read as they are, of course, important.


----------



## Magick Man

justin w. said:


> not sure, but i don't know if Stax would accept your claim.  it would be considered a gray market sale




AmEx has always supported claims that I've filed with them in those situations. No warranty at all? They'll give you 24 months from date of purchase. That's one of the reasons I pay $450 /yr for their platinum card (and the air miles, which rack up like mad).


----------



## cat6man

ditto on the AMEX platinum card, stax would not but amex would pick up from purchase..................of course if you buy in US, it is 24 months on top of stax warranty period.


----------



## Magick Man

Actually, it's an additional year, up to five years total. If something breaks I call them and they set up the claim, if they can't get it fixed they send me a new one. Easy stuff.


----------



## chrisjorg

Dear Forum.
   
  I need help here bought a pair of Vintage sr-84 from 1992, and i need parts..Tried many on the net, but no positive answer..
   
  Any ideas?
   
  Need a new cable, and the pad on the driver..


----------



## Nebby

Quote: 





magick man said:


> Actually, it's an additional year, up to five years total. If something breaks I call them and they set up the claim, if they can't get it fixed they send me a new one. Easy stuff.


 
   
  Do they warranty items purchased internationally though? I remember some wording saying that the original warranty must be eligible in the us or something to that effect...


----------



## Magick Man

nebby said:


> Do they warranty items purchased internationally though? I remember some wording saying that the original warranty must be eligible in the us or something to that effect...




Yep, they have for me in the past, on two occasions. Once with a shaver I bought in Holland, and another time it was a camcorder sold exclusively in Japan.


----------



## vinyllp33

MM,

I know you have 4070's and O2 MK1 but don't you also have the 003's?

Thanks


----------



## Magick Man

Yeah, I have a set. Shamefully, I have to admit that I mostly use them to test an amp before plugging in my more expensive or irreplaceable `phones.  Pretty much all my gear is listed in my profile.

But I do like the way they sound, they're quite unique.


----------



## vinyllp33

The reason I ask is that while I run the 009/BHSE I have been using the amp to toss around the 003's and for totally rocking out purposes, they are doing some pretty astonishing things.


----------



## Magick Man

They are underrated, that's for sure. If someone made a good portable pro bias amp, I'd probably use them as my travel `phones.


----------



## YOONG 2112

Hi Anyone know what sound characteristics comes from a set of MAZDA 6cg7/6fq7 which I am looking at to replace the old tubes in my SRMT1?
  Cheers


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





chrisjorg said:


> Dear Forum.
> 
> I need help here bought a pair of Vintage sr-84 from 1992, and i need parts..Tried many on the net, but no positive answer..
> 
> ...


 
   
  There are no spare parts available for these old sets anywhere in the world that I know of.


----------



## arnaud

Edited: latest graphs (corrected typos, comparisons with SR007A end SZ2 series)
   
  I joined the bandwagon of headphone measurements . Motivation is to get some proper data to calibrate my models, here's are cross-post of the graphs I posted in the estart DIY thread (post #449 ), Although not required for the rest of my modeling, I may extract the impulse response and CSD (disclaimer: as usual, this is not to be compared to other measurement, the rig is not calibrated and a flat curve may not correspond to anything neutral).
   
  
 _Repeatability check:_
 
  
  
_Influence of backing plate used to perform the measurements:_
   

   
 _Comparison of SR009 and SR007A (driven from stock 727A amp). Omega 2 is end of SZ2 series, I did not (yet) plug the ports but bend the arch and springs as step gap toward mkI version. Obviously, there's still nasty boominess which is clearly audible:_
 
  
 _Free air resonance check:_

   
   
_Pics of the measuring rig:_


----------



## ujamerstand

Results looking good! We see the importance of getting a good seal when measuring stats cans. 
   
  What is PUF? Does it stand for polyurenthane? If so, my measurements conforms to yours.


----------



## arnaud

Edit: as discussed in the other thread, the soft backing is 3mm neoprene (wetsuit material), not PUF. Got confused with the anechoic enclosure materials...



ujamerstand said:


> Results looking good! We see the importance of getting a good seal when measuring stats cans.
> 
> What is PUF? Does it stand for polyurenthane? If so, my measurements conforms to yours.




Thanks! Yes, poly-urethane, although to be honest I don't have the detailed properties. It says urethane foam on the cover but in general, I come across polyurethane foam and we call it PUF. 

I was not planning to use such soft backing for my simulation (because I then have to guestimate its properties) but it seems really close to skin (closed cell, surface elasticity). As expected, it affects the results quite a bit (some of it has to do with the varying mic distance from baffle plane).

Will post pics later on and am on my way to measure the 007A for sake of comparison. I was surprised by how well the left and right channels are paired on the 009 (makes me feel I got my money's worth). Curious to see how the 007A does...


Cheers, arnaud


----------



## arnaud

One suprising thing I noticed is how the diaphragm resonance frequency is affected by the backing conditions: 40-45Hz for the plexiglass or puf backing (puf on top of the plexiglass plate) while it's 30-35Hz for the cork backing. I don't think I can predict such variation with simulation and it doesn't appear to be a problem of seal (headphone taken off and back to the stand between measurements which leads to consistent results). Any idea? 

Only thing I can think of is slight leakage through the pad because of the cork which artificially decrease the effective enclosed volume stiffness (hence pushing the resonance frequency down). But then, with the free air resonance at 200Hz, the explenation all falls apart... Ahh, I still have so much to learn


----------



## ujamerstand

It's great to see more people setting up their own measurement rigs. We really need to get our own thread going, somewhere to discuss the effect of various materials on the result, what should we consider as neutral results, and how can we process the raw data to get rid of the coupler's influence. 
   
  Anyways, here're my experiments with an HD650: (I don't have an amp for my sr507 right now, it's harder to get a proper seal with that headphone anyways.)
   
   
   
  The red line is using pure neoprene; similar to PUF, green is melamine backing, blue and purple is a ring of neoprene around melamine, probably similar to your "under pad" setup. All setups have an 8mm aluminum plate beneath it.
   
  As you can see, there are variations in resonance frequency around 40-60Hz and 8-11kHz. The variation in the treble region is very similar to your PUF experiments. However, I believe the variation in the 40-60Hz region is caused by a lack of attention to seal in my case. 
   
  I am also curious as to why the free air resonance is at 200Hz vs 30-35Hz and 40-45Hz with a sealed backing. I understand there is a drastic decrease in volume when moving from free air measurements to sealed measurements. Not sure why the resonance frequency would decrease though...


----------



## Solude

On buying NA vs Asia... when I needed service on my 007 MkI I emailed Yama to send them in.  By the time they got back to me, I had shipped my cans to the UK, had them repaired and shipped back to me.  Yama and the UK didn't care where they came from.  But that it took over a month to hear back doesn't add value to a NA warranty to me.  Buy from Japan, and if you need warranty work, ship it back to Japan.  You can do that many times before you spend $1000.


----------



## schorsch

Sigma stand question,
   
  hello dear Sigma and Sigma Pro owners. I want to build a Sigma stand and so I'm looking for an worn out old to know how to build one or for measures of stand. I'm also interested in the interior of the stand, becuase I want to use it as a little loudspeaker on my desk.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Failed Engineer

So I just recently completed my acquisition of my first eletrostat rig, a SR-007 mk1 paired to a Headamp KGSS, and spending a couple hours with it this morning.  Definitely not initially wowed, but I think I have to retrain my brain from my previous setup, a W3000ANV out of a LF.  But one thing is clear, this chain has flat out the most musicality out of anything I have heard.  I'm toe-tapping non-stop.  I'm going to be happy, I think this is what I've been searching for.


----------



## MorbidToaster

So you're not wowed but it's the most musical system you've listened to? Hmm...
   
  Also...Considering getting a used 007 mk1 + LL in between the 009 (as to just not have the LL sitting around). What am I going to miss out on? I heard the 007s at a meet in March and wasn't particularly blown away. Bass seemed off.
   
  Quote: 





failed engineer said:


> So I just recently completed my acquisition of my first eletrostat rig, a SR-007 mk1 paired to a Headamp KGSS, and spending a couple hours with it this morning.  Definitely not initially wowed, but I think I have to retrain my brain from my previous setup, a W3000ANV out of a LF.  But one thing is clear, this chain has flat out the most musicality out of anything I have heard.  I'm toe-tapping non-stop.  I'm going to be happy, I think this is what I've been searching for.


----------



## Otakusound

That was my initial impression of the 007 too, but after the first day/night and what was basically a 9 hour listening session I couldn't believe what I was hearing. It takes the mind a minute but it is a great headphone imo.


----------



## spritzer

There is nothing the 009 does better than any of my 007Mk1's.  I've finally given up on the 009 after receiving two other sets just to check if mine were bad and packed them away.  Instead I just bought another SR-Omega which may not be perfect but is never guilty of being this annoying.


----------



## sphinxvc

Meet impressions of Stax are usually inaccurate, I guess that's good news MT?


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> So you're not wowed but it's the most musical system you've listened to? Hmm...
> 
> Also...Considering getting a used 007 mk1 + LL in between the 009 (as to just not have the LL sitting around). What am I going to miss out on? I heard the 007s at a meet in March and wasn't particularly blown away. Bass seemed off.


 
   
  It took me awhile to get my head around the 007s, but once I got used to them, the deficiencies of most dynamics become pretty glaring.
   
  It definitely takes a bit of time to get used to the stats.  I've had a lot of people listen to my setup and take a few hours of uninterrupted listening as they try to get used to the signature.
   
  The stats aren't necessarily as fun as the orthos, but they are generally more musical.  Fwiw, I like both.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Possibly. Gives me an excuse (and possibility) to try save quite a bit of money.
   
  Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Meet impressions of Stax are usually inaccurate, I guess that's good news MT?


 
   
  I'm sure it's here somewhere but what in particular is your issue with the 009? Serious question.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is nothing the 009 does better than any of my 007Mk1's.  I've finally given up on the 009 after receiving two other sets just to check if mine were bad and packed them away.  Instead I just bought another SR-Omega which may not be perfect but is never guilty of being this annoying.


 
   
  My biggest concern is the physicality of the 007. I know the 009 has a nice kick.


----------



## blubliss

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is nothing the 009 does better than any of my 007Mk1's.


 
   
  My opinion is exactly the opposite on these 2 phones.  I guess it comes down to the music we listen to.  My 007 Mk 1 has not been touched in ages.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote: 





elysian said:


> The stats aren't necessarily as fun as the orthos, but they are generally more musical.  Fwiw, I like both.


 
   
  For lighter music, electrostats have it locked up. For heavier music, the playing field tilts in favor of orthos. At least that's my experience.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Possibly. Gives me an excuse (and possibility) to try save quite a bit of money.


 
   
  Yup.
   
   


morbidtoaster said:


> My biggest concern is the physicality of the 007. I know the 009 has a nice kick.


 
   
  I would think the 007 would have more kick if anything.  Personally I've heard it the same way as you have.  SR009 kick > 007MKI kick, but the best I'm amp I've heard with a 007 is an SRM-717.  And it could just be because that phone's so inefficient that there's sometimes a lack of "kick."


----------



## MorbidToaster

I think I heard them on a 727 and a proto LL. It was my understanding that that's just how 'stats were. The electrostatic speakers I heard were the same way. Wall of sound, but no necessarily a wall that 'moves through you'. That's one reason I was so blown away by the 009s. I got that little dynamic kick back.
   
  Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> Yup.
> 
> 
> 
> I would think the 007 would have more kick if anything.  Personally I've heard it the same way as you have.  SR009 kick > 007MKI kick, but the best I'm amp I've heard with a 007 is an SRM-717.  And it could just be because that phone's so inefficient that there's sometimes a lack of "kick."


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I think I heard them on a 727 and a proto LL. It was my understanding that that's just how 'stats were. The electrostatic speakers I heard were the same way. Wall of sound, but no necessarily a wall that 'moves through you'. That's one reason I was so blown away by the 009s. I got that little dynamic kick back.


 
   
  This is exactly what i have heard in the past. The 007s, even out of the BHSE had basically no physicallity or impact. They may have more bass quantity compared to the 009s, which is why i think alot of people say otherwise, but that was not my experience. This is what always drove me to orthos instead. But when i heard the 009s, it was a revelation. It was like exactly what i had always hoped stats would be. This is why i must have it. It adds in impact to the sound, which the too polite 007s dont really have. Though its still not as much as an ortho would have, its enough for me 
   
  So Dave, i would say that you need to hear the 009s, they may change your mind about Stax and heavier music.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is nothing the 009 does better than any of my 007Mk1's.  I've finally given up on the 009 after receiving two other sets just to check if mine were bad and packed them away.  Instead I just bought another SR-Omega which may not be perfect but is never guilty of being this annoying.


 
   
   
  My 507s had broke in for about 1500 hours,
  they sound cold, aggressive when I just bought them.
   
  Now they sound soft,warm & liquid, much close to the old lambdas, 
  Timbres are more natural than before, and the listening fatigue is gone.
  I miss the sharpness sound a bit though.
   
  the difference is huge...


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> For lighter music, electrostats have it locked up. For heavier music, the playing field tilts in favor of orthos. At least that's my experience.


 
   
  Yeah, I had the same opinion until I received the BHSE and swapped it in front of my preamp.
   
  Now, weirdly enough, I actually like the stats a bit more with a lot of modern music (metal, pop, rock, etc.).  The low frequency sounds more impactful now.  I did have to swap out the 6SL7s in my preamp for low noise 6SU7s, though, as it was sounding a bit too uncontrolled with the 6SL7s.  I kind of like the orthos more with classical and jazz.  Still not sure, and my opinion might change in the next few months.  Both aren't quite where I want them to be with vocals.  The HE60 may solve that dilemma.  I need to start A/B testing sources again sometime and upgrade that USB cable.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> The HE60 may solve that dilemma.


 
  The HE60 is a lot brighter and addictive.
  After listening to the HE60, I usually need 3 tracks to get the O2 Mk1 to come to life.
  The O2 MK1 is more musical than the HE60.


----------



## Blackmumba

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Yeah, I had the same opinion until I received the BHSE and swapped it in front of my preamp.
> 
> Now, weirdly enough, I actually like the stats a bit more with a lot of modern music (metal, pop, rock, etc.).  The low frequency sounds more impactful now.  I did have to swap out the 6SL7s in my preamp for low noise 6SU7s, though, as it was sounding a bit too uncontrolled with the 6SL7s.  I kind of like the orthos more with classical and jazz.  Still not sure, and my opinion might change in the next few months.  Both aren't quite where I want them to be with vocals.  The HE60 may solve that dilemma.  I need to start A/B testing sources again sometime and upgrade that USB cable.


 
   
  After aquiring my LCD2's, I got to agree, the ortho's hit hard.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Depending on the recording I found orthos can be quite fatiguing. More so than my HD800s or the 009s.
   
  Quote: 





blackmumba said:


> After aquiring my LCD2's, I got to agree, the ortho's hit hard.


----------



## linuxid10t

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Yeah, I had the same opinion until I received the BHSE and swapped it in front of my preamp.
> 
> Now, weirdly enough, I actually like the stats a bit more with a lot of modern music (metal, pop, rock, etc.).  The low frequency sounds more impactful now.  I did have to swap out the 6SL7s in my preamp for low noise 6SU7s, though, as it was sounding a bit too uncontrolled with the 6SL7s.  I kind of like the orthos more with classical and jazz.  Still not sure, and my opinion might change in the next few months.  Both aren't quite where I want them to be with vocals.  The HE60 may solve that dilemma.  I need to start A/B testing sources again sometime and upgrade that USB cable.


 
  Personally, I think metal is the best genre on electrostats.  They handle the complexities far better than any dynamic headphone.


----------



## realmassy

pkshan said:


> My 507s had broke in for about 1500 hours,
> they sound cold, aggressive when I just bought them.
> 
> Now they sound soft,warm & liquid, much close to the old lambdas,
> ...



This matches exactly my experience with 507s. They are liquid and effortless.
I borrowed a local headfier 007 mkI and listened to them with my setup for a week: they are truly excellent headphones, but I wasn't sorry to go back to the 507.


----------



## spritzer

While the bass on the LCD-2 is impressive it is restrained and colored compared to the 007.  The Stax can go deeper and hit harder (not counting the obvious coloration due to diaphragm modes) off amps of similar caliber.  Now getting the proper fit is crucial to get the most out of the 007 and a stock 007mk1 will only work for people with relatively small heads.  They made the newer models a bit more universal but they still need to be adapted to the user. 
   
  Quote: 





blubliss said:


> My opinion is exactly the opposite on these 2 phones.  I guess it comes down to the music we listen to.  My 007 Mk 1 has not been touched in ages.


 
   
  That's only because you are crazy my friend!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  My last ditch attempt to like them was after a strict diet of HD800 and SR-404 for a week but nope, just couldn't do it.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Hey, look, a Lambda Nova Signature and an SRD-7 Pro in the B/S/T section!
   
  The LNS is definitely up there on my list of electrostatics to audition, but well beyond what I can afford right now at $700.
   
  (Yeah, as if I should be looking at Stax on a budget...that $250 SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB deal must've been some kind of fluke. Or a gateway drug.)


----------



## Keithpgdrb

For the techies out there.  is it possible to convert a srm1-mk2 with two normal bias jacks to a normal/pro configuration?  by possible, I mean could it be diy'ed?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Hey, look, a Lambda Nova Signature and an SRD-7 Pro in the B/S/T section!
> 
> The LNS is definitely up there on my list of electrostatics to audition, but well beyond what I can afford right now at $700.
> 
> (Yeah, as if I should be looking at Stax on a budget...that $250 SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB deal must've been some kind of fluke. Or a gateway drug.)


 
   
  He's asking way too much.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> He's asking way too much.


 
   
  I figured as much. $700 might be reasonable if he were including an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro or better amp with it, but an SRD-7 Pro that still needs a speaker amp behind it? I don't think so.


----------



## Antistase

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> This is exactly what i have heard in the past. The 007s, even out of the BHSE had basically no physicallity or impact. They may have more bass quantity compared to the 009s, which is why i think alot of people say otherwise, but that was not my experience. This is what always drove me to orthos instead. But when i heard the 009s, it was a revelation. It was like exactly what i had always hoped stats would be. This is why i must have it. It adds in impact to the sound, which the too polite 007s dont really have. Though its still not as much as an ortho would have, its enough for me
> 
> So Dave, i would say that you need to hear the 009s, they may change your mind about Stax and heavier music.


 
   
  Quite opposite experience here. I went through a lot of cans, through dynamic, orthos and staxes; a long travel just to arrive where  it was obvious to start.
  Forgetting about the whole pathetic dynamic technology, I still use to drive orthos with my SE DHT amps' speaker output, which, in my opinion, is the only way to go if you want to  squeeze the maximum out of them, and still the LCD2 seems  just a goofy arrogant boy in comparison to the bold audacity and ability of my 007 MK1 driven by the very same amp (and this, interesting enough, just with a different OPT that is necessarily inferior to the speakers one).
  And whilst the LCD2 only sounds credible with electronic music, the MK1 is the authority in Music reproduction (I'm only allergic to hip-hop, house and reggae).
  I thought LCD2's LFs couldn't be matched but the MK1 simply has more and cleaner and deeper. I may say that, whilst LCD2's LFs hit your head down to your shoulders, MK1's ones shake you down to your belly. And on top of this you can clearly make the difference between the same disc competently ripped and recorded on the best CDR and the original (often exactly the LFs will give you the clue.), whilst, of course just in comparison with Staxes,  with the LCD2 everything is so muddled that you won't realise the cd is completely scratched if it doesn't skip.
  Never heard 009 but at, this stage, I can't think of anything I may need from a pair of cans. I'm too compelled now to improve the source, thinking about new amps and, mostly, listening to music.


----------



## schorsch

Did some listening with my SR007 Mk2 with the Pawel hp-1 device and the SRM1MK2PP
  Changed my mind about the too much bass a little bit .
   
  I like the diffuse field equalization from the ED-1 with lambdas and I recognize the sound of it when using the pawel this way.
  binaural mode is also very interesting (a litlle bit more "spectacular" though)
   
  Need some more listening tine....
   
  Regards Georg Georg


----------



## spritzer

The SRM-1 Mk2 will be responsible for some of that extra bass but try to rotate the earpads a bit and see if it gets better.


----------



## schorsch

Dear Spritzer,
   
  Rotating did some changes for - more than I thtought in the beginning. Well the adjustment is really important and getting used to the earspeakers.
  I really enjoy them.
   
  Thanks Georg


----------



## schorsch

Are there any BHSE users over here in Germany?
  Has one of you tried the malvalve amp too?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## jaycalgary

Listening to SR-X pro's and sure is a nice sounding headphone.


----------



## milosz

Bunch of Stax pro-type 5-pin panel mount Teflon sockets on eBay, I just noticed.  In case anyone needs one.


----------



## wink

They're from Justin at Headamp, your friendly BHSE purveyor.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Are there any BHSE users over here in Germany?
> Has one of you tried the malvalve amp too?
> 
> Regards Georg


 
   
  There is a BHSE in Switzerland but I'm not sure about Germany. 
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Listening to SR-X pro's and sure is a nice sounding headphone.


 
   
  Truly one of the best headphones ever made.  A bit like the Grado HP-1000 but better in every way and it doesn't weigh a ton.


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is a T2 in sweden, and another T2 in germany...


----------



## SoupRKnowva

So i was catching up on the Megatron this evening, and I noticed that I havent seen any Mafia designs using a tube based power supply. Is there a reason for this? i was just thinking since you already had 12 tubes for the amp portion of the megatron, why not add a few more and make the power supply that way as well?


----------



## CDPlayer

Apologies for a newbie question, but what is the "correct" position of pads on SR-007A? Is the flatter side of a D-shaped cut-out supposed to be pointing back, or toward the face? I'm a bit confused by it - if the cut-out is to follow the shape of the ear, then the flat side should be in front; however pad is thicker there, too - which I would have expected to be at the back, so as to position the earspeakers angled toward the listener...
   
  Confused.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Apologies for a newbie question, but what is the "correct" position of pads on SR-007A? Is the flatter side of a D-shaped cut-out supposed to be pointing back, or toward the face? I'm a bit confused by it - if the cut-out is to follow the shape of the ear, then the flat side should be in front; however pad is thicker there, too - which I would have expected to be at the back, so as to position the earspeakers angled toward the listener...
> 
> Confused.


 
  I believe the thick part of the 007's ear pads goes at the back of the ear, well it does with the 009's and the ear pads are fixed.


----------



## CDPlayer

David,
   
  Thank you, this is what I'm thinking, too. Tried to turn them the other way - doesn't feel to be very comfortable, and doesn't seem to make much difference to the sound, either...
  
  -- Dmitri


----------



## David1961

Hi Dmitri,
  Which amp are you using with the SR-007A's and how do you find them ?
   
               Dave.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> There is a T2 in sweden, and another T2 in germany...


 
  Hi Kevin,
   
  Are they Stax T2's or DIY T2's.
   
             Dave.


----------



## livewire

I would imagine he is referring to DIY T2's.
  Could be one up and running soon in Switzerland too!


----------



## sridhar3

T2, SR-Omega and MDR-R10 are pretty much the only pieces of gear I actually still want to hear.  T2 listening session is on my bucket list.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> David,
> 
> Thank you, this is what I'm thinking, too. Tried to turn them the other way - doesn't feel to be very comfortable, and doesn't seem to make much difference to the sound, either...
> 
> -- Dmitri


 
   
  Out of curiosity I tried my 009's with the thick part of the ear pads at the front and found them to be very comfortable that way, but I think the pads are angled with the thick part at the back for a reason.
   
  P.S. I'm gonna try listening to some music with my 009's on back to front.


----------



## David1961

I've just tried my 009's the opposite way round and it's the first and last time l try it that way, they were comfortable but not as comfortable as the right way round, also hearing must get used to instruments coming from a certain direction because with having the 009's back to front the music sounded strange. Curiosity got the better of me but at least l now know.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





david1961 said:


> I've just tried my 009's the opposite way round and it's the first and last time l try it that way, they were comfortable but not as comfortable as the right way round, also hearing must get used to instruments coming from a certain direction because with having the 009's back to front the music sounded strange. Curiosity got the better of me but at least l now know.


 
   
  The truth is that proper way is headband covering the eyes. Give it a shout and let us know!


----------



## wink

Or, you could try with the headband under the chin.......


----------



## MorbidToaster

Preventing hair loss.
   
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Or, you could try with the headband under the chin.......


----------



## wink

Yeah, unless you have a beard.
   
  I'm follically challenged anyway, though not to the point of having alopecia.....


----------



## David1961

When I shave my face I do my head aswell, so when I put my headphones on I keep my head still otherwise they might slip off.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> So i was catching up on the Megatron this evening, and I noticed that I havent seen any Mafia designs using a tube based power supply. Is there a reason for this? i was just thinking since you already had 12 tubes for the amp portion of the megatron, why not add a few more and make the power supply that way as well?


 
   
  We could do a tube PSU but I really don't see the point.  Semiconductors are just much better suited for this role and using tubes is very wasteful of energy at the levels we operate at.  It also sets us limits as these parts have hard design limits which shouldn't be exceeded or you end up with the arcy-sparky of the Woo amps.  Then there is the whole issue of how to design such a supply.  A tube rectifier with a R-C-R-C- etc. string isn't something we would ever do and a fully regulated tube supply is very costly and complicated.  More heater lines to worry about too as if something like the Megatron didn't have enough of them already... 
   
  I'm not going to say we'll never do one though as we are all over the place these days.  Hell, I'm working on a SET Stax amp and if somebody would have suggested we'd use a tube CCS for an EL34 last year I would have laughed in their face.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  It's funny how the mere act of trying to fix something that's fundamentally broken such as the B-10 can spark some truly great ideas... 
   
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Apologies for a newbie question, but what is the "correct" position of pads on SR-007A? Is the flatter side of a D-shaped cut-out supposed to be pointing back, or toward the face? I'm a bit confused by it - if the cut-out is to follow the shape of the ear, then the flat side should be in front; however pad is thicker there, too - which I would have expected to be at the back, so as to position the earspeakers angled toward the listener...
> 
> Confused.


 
   
  There is no correct way but many place the seam so it is pointing forward and slightly upwards.  Adjust the angle to get the perfect fit.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> We could do a tube PSU but I really don't see the point.  Semiconductors are just much better suited for this role and using tubes is very wasteful of energy at the levels we operate at.  It also sets us limits as these parts have hard design limits which shouldn't be exceeded or you end up with the arcy-sparky of the Woo amps.  Then there is the whole issue of how to design such a supply.  A tube rectifier with a R-C-R-C- etc. string isn't something we would ever do and a fully regulated tube supply is very costly and complicated.  More heater lines to worry about too as if something like the Megatron didn't have enough of them already...
> 
> I'm not going to say we'll never do one though as we are all over the place these days.  Hell, I'm working on a SET Stax amp and if somebody would have suggested we'd use a tube CCS for an EL34 last year I would have laughed in their face.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks for the answer Spritzer, i had thought it must be something like that, but was still curious. I was thinking about the KGSSHV, but the talk of the new all tube, but simpler than the DIY T2 build has perked my interest. Plus itll be easier to catch boards this time around since im paying attention. And since KG said the megatron was on the same level as the T2 and BH, im assuming that it will be a better amp than the KGSSHV?


----------



## gilency

Instructions on how to use the KGSSHV 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




:
  1- Turn it on
  2- Listen
  3- Turn it off when done.
  4-The End
  No tube worries, great for Southern CA's summer.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is no correct way but many place the seam so it is pointing forward and slightly upwards.  Adjust the angle to get the perfect fit.


 
   
  Thank you, looks like this is exactly the way I'm using it!


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





david1961 said:


> Hi Dmitri,
> Which amp are you using with the SR-007A's and how do you find them ?
> 
> Dave.


 
   
  Weird - I swear I remember replying to this, but can't seem to find my answer post.  Apologies.
   
  I'm using SRM-007tA at the moment; finding the combo very good, but wishing for a bit more bass. There is a new solid state amp on its way to me from high-amp.de, which I am hoping will improve things.
   
  -- Dmitri


----------



## singh

For anyone in japan, this must be a great deal. there are 2 pairs of sr007 on auction ( both by reputed sellers )  at 95000 yen (around 1300 usd)
   
HERE 
   
  I am unable to reach my friend in japan so i cant buy/bid.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Weird - I swear I remember replying to this, but can't seem to find my answer post.  Apologies.
> 
> I'm using SRM-007tA at the moment; finding the combo very good, but wishing for a bit more bass. There is a new solid state amp on its way to me from high-amp.de, which I am hoping will improve things.
> 
> -- Dmitri


 
   
  Last year my headphone + amp combo was the SR-007mk1 and SRM-007t and I felt the SR-007's sounded veiled. Late last year I used them both as part exchange for my source but about a 3 weeks ago I got hear IanG's 007's with his LL and my BHSE and even though I only got to hear the 007's for a short time with those two amps, there was quite an improvement over the SRM-007t.
   
                              Dave.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Thanks for the answer Spritzer, i had thought it must be something like that, but was still curious. I was thinking about the KGSSHV, but the talk of the new all tube, but simpler than the DIY T2 build has perked my interest. Plus itll be easier to catch boards this time around since im paying attention. And since KG said the megatron was on the same level as the T2 and BH, im assuming that it will be a better amp than the KGSSHV?


 
   
  I wouldn't really call the Megatron simple as it calls for some rather complex filament wiring and those transformer have to be close to the tubes so a two box setup is not recommended.  The cathode of the CCS EL34's sits way over spec for the tube in terms of the cathode/heater relationship so they need to be fed off an isolated winding and the wires kept as short as is possible.  I'll probably build it in a rather tall box and add an internal second layer to house the PSU and transformer with everything else on the side panels. 
   
  A KGSSHV with offboard heatsinks and the bias current raised will give these amps a run for their money.  While we didn't loose much by scaling the amp down for use with the onboard heatsinks it was always a compromise.  There is only so much power those 2.5" sinks can dissipate but a 3U chassis with 400mm long sinks can do a whole lot more. 
   
  The files needed to order KGSSHV boards are available to everyone and it's pretty easy to order PCB's these days from China.  They do small lots and there is no tooling cost.


----------



## kevin gilmore

my idea for the megatron is to put 2 filament transformers inside the amplifier box, as close to
  the output tubes as possible.  One for each channel to minimize crosstalk. (which is way
  way down because its all balanced anyway)  Second box for the high voltage supply.


----------



## spritzer

That would work with two umbilical cables and some careful wiring.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The stax mafia absolutely knows how to do a fully regulated all tube power supply.
It would look a lot like mikhails gas tube electrostatic supply, except it won't blow up.

For each of the 2 high voltage supplies you need
2 x 5u4
2 x 6l6
1x small pentode
2x 0a3

Plus a bunch of caps and transformers.

Gets expensive and large in a hurry.

Solid state still beats it by a large margin


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Thanks for the explanation Dr Gilmore. Like i said to Spritzer, i was just curious why it hadnt been done, not that i didnt think you guys were capable of such a thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 And i figured that even if you could, that it probably had something to do with the solid state power supply being better regardless.
   
  Thats good to know Spritzer...maybe ill stick with just making some of my own boards for a KGSSHV after all. Though being a guy who loves quality i was looking at the place in Illinois to get my boards made rather than china.


----------



## Victor Chew

Greatly understand what you are getting at. Keeping it to the solid state for the PSU makes a lot of sense to me as well.
   
  I am really looking forward to this project taking off.


----------



## FrankCooter

As much as I love tubes, with the advent of low noise high voltage Schottky diodes, it's pretty hard to make a case for vacuum rectifiers anymore. The only remaining advantage of vacuum rectifiers is the inherent soft start, which can be accomplished by other means.
   
  Tube regulators are more of a gray area. Gas regulators are noisy, inaccurate, and bulky. Zeners can be noisy too, but the noise can usually be easily shunted with a large capacitance that cannot be used on a gas regulator.  As a pass device in a series regulator, a tube is going to require a seperate filament winding and eat up 100V or more of the B+ and generate a bunch more heat. A solid state device in this position is more accurate, requires only a relatively small voltage drop, has no filament requirement, and is much less bulky. The solid state regulator will be smaller, cheaper, and measure better than a comparable tube regulator (although it is not difficult to build a tube regulator , that at least for audio purposes, has excellent measurements). The tube regulator has the advantage of usually being more rugged than its solid-state counterpart. Some people, me included, feel that solid-state series regulators, no matter how well they measure, can impart a signature (usually referred to as a glare) to some audio circuits.
   
  The underexplored area in the high voltage regulator field is the shunt regulator.It's rarely used in audio circuits, but it might be worth looking at for a "no holds barred" electrostatic amp.  Both vacuum tube and solid-state shunt regulators seem to be free potentiental sonic effects. The big disadvantage of shunt regulators of either type is that they consume as much power as the amplifier itself. I'd like to see a professionally designed hybrid shunt regulated power supply that was capable of driving a top tier electrostatic amp. Everything solid-state except the shunt device, which would probably have to be something considerably beefier than a single EL34.


----------



## Victor Chew

I am a little concerned that the toriods might buzz; and if its under the amp, the tubes will not like the vibrations. Using additional neoprene bases will certainly help, but may not eradicate the vibrations totally. Best if the transformers are totally quiet and vibration free, but my experience with them have been otherwise. Just a little concerned that the high voltage may pick up the unwanted noises.


----------



## milosz

TUBE POWER SUPPLIES
   
  Tube rectifiers are fast and quiet, generally speaking, but so are the right silicon diodes.   And a silicon diode doesn't need half an amp at 12 volts just to heat it....
   
  As far as a tube regulator goes, I can't think of any sonic advantage over solid state. The only (non-sonic) advantage I can think of is a tube regulator is often more forgiving of a short than solid state, so if you wire the thing wrong, with a tube regulator you may get glowing red plates instead of open or shorted transistors.  But we never wire things wrong.....  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Tube power supplies make a lot of heat.  So, if you live someplace cold, then maybe...
   
  Of course, there is an aesthetic aspect- the purple pink plasma in a gas regulator is pretty, and mercury rectifiers can be quite lovely too.  But that seems hardly worth the expense , trouble and heat.


----------



## FrankCooter

Mercury vapor rectifiers are a world in themselves. It's not just about the pretty blue glow. They are toxic, dangerous, and probably illegal. Totally impractical in the modern world.If you break one, you'll need a full professional hazmat clean up that will cost thousands of dollars. However, for the fanatic,they are also probably the finest rectifiers ever made. Unlike vacuum rectifiers, they have a very low impedance. There is no heat except for the filament. In operation, they are cold to the touch. Ionized mercury has a constant voltage drop of about 15V regardless of current draw. Essentially you get a free regulator inside the bottle. If you've ever heard an amp with a mercury rectified power supply you won't forget it. In a "brute force" power supply, substituting  mercury rectifiers for either vacuum or solid state rectifiers yields  a subjectively bigger, bolder, more dynamic sound that is instantaneously recognizable by even a casual listener.  Again, these things are horribly dangerous and toxic and even in their  day were never intended for anything but industrial use.  I've been searching for an equivalent substitute. Haven't found one yet. So far. series regulators of any type aren't the answer. Perhaps some sort of shunt regulator.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I have a hybrid shunt regulator supply that is all solid state, with feedback from
  the shunt element to control the constant current source so that it it capable
  of running with no load. shunt element could be a tube but the only practical
  ones are likely eimac ceramic triodes. Especially for the higher voltages.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Thats good to know Spritzer...maybe ill stick with just making some of my own boards for a KGSSHV after all. Though being a guy who loves quality i was looking at the place in Illinois to get my boards made rather than china.


 
   
  I would stick with the fab houses in the far east as all the boards I've seen made in the USA have been of very bad quality.


----------



## spekkio

Is there something wrong with me if I prefer the SRM-252S to the SRM-323S on my O2 mk1? I don't know why but the 323S just sounds more muffled and 'distant'. The 252S is closer and more engaging.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I would stick with the fab houses in the far east as all the boards I've seen made in the USA have been of very bad quality.


 
   
  Heh, true enough. I meant that i was going to go through Imagineering, since Dr Gilmore had said they made some of the best boards he had seen. Though having never ordered a PCB before, even the first page of that quote section was a bit daunting


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





spekkio said:


> Is there something wrong with me if I prefer the SRM-252S to the SRM-323S on my O2 mk1? I don't know why but the 323S just sounds more muffled and 'distant'. The 252S is closer and more engaging.


 
   
  You should like whatever sounds good to your ears and not feel pressured by what people say you're supposed to like.
   
  The important thing is to keep an open mind and be sure to preface your opinions appropriately.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I think imagineering does a better job with better etching.
A couple of other boards I have seen had shorts.

Since I am in Illinois I would have to pay 10% sales tax which is why
I don't do boards anymore. Lil- knight also does boards in vietnam

kgsshv amp board on board heatsink version 8.25 x 6.25 inch 285 holes
kgsshv amp board off board heatsink version 7.2 x 3.9 inch 234 holes
kgsshv power supply board 9 x 7.5 inches 362 holes
universalpower board suitable for kgsshv or megatron or bae... 10.6 x 7.47 440 holes
megatron board 9 x 9 inches 403 holes

i always go for 3 oz copper.


----------



## jaycalgary

I put my O2 Mk1's away for a few days to listen to the Sr-x  pro's. I think it is a really fun combination to have because going back to the O2's just wowed me with its strengths and the Sr-x pro's are a great experience themselves. I think it will be great to bounce back and forth between the two contrasting experiences for a long time to come. Just wondering how many factory Sr-x pro's would you guess that are out there?


----------



## padam

jaycalgary said:


> I put my O2 Mk1's away for a few days to listen to the Sr-x  pro's. I think it is a really fun combination to have because going back to the O2's just wowed me with its strengths and the Sr-x pro's are a great experience themselves. I think it will be great to bounce back and forth between the two contrasting experiences for a long time to come. Just wondering how many factory Sr-x pro's would you guess that are out there?


 
  200-300 is my rough estimation but could be less or more, surely rarer than the already rare SR-Omega. They cost almost as much as the Lambda, so nobody was interested.
  I think they are very balanced from top to bottom, the midrange is the most impressive thing after all it is definitely more real than the O2 and free of glare unlike with most Lambdas.
  They are heavily damped so even though they go deep they will never you a kick in the back bass, very controlled. It is all about clarity, a "chemically pure" sound.
  And of course the soundstage is not so big either but well separated.
This is an old comparison that I really like.
  They take EQ extemely well as noted before, so I will try to find a setting that might please me even more (boost the bass a bit for some tracks)


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Heh, true enough. I meant that i was going to go through Imagineering, since Dr Gilmore had said they made some of the best boards he had seen. Though having never ordered a PCB before, even the first page of that quote section was a bit daunting


 
   
  i get boards through here, and I don't think they actually make any boards, but they contract the jobs out to board manufacturers, and I doubt any of them are in North America.  I have had good luck with them because there is some guarantee of the quality.


----------



## CDPlayer

Hah, I hacked me a ghetto-style adapter for my SR-001 mkII to plug them into my SRM-007tA today (ripped pins from a couple of el-cheapo XLR sockets; a small circle cut out of plex with 2.5mm holes to hold them pins in their correct places; a bunch of nice colourful wires, and a small piece of PCB cut to size with groves between traces cut by a dremel grinder), and boy, what a reward! These tiny things are very, very sweet when driven by a proper amp!
   
  Now, if you excuse me, I'll be off to enjoy the music.


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Hah, I hacked me a ghetto-style adapter for my SR-001 mkII to plug them into my SRM-007tA today


 
  Can you post some pictures  ?  Plexi ok for all the voltage?


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





nick n said:


> Can you post some pictures  ?  Plexi ok for all the voltage?


 
   
  Sure, see below, hopefully what you wanted to see is visible..
   
  Plexi seems to be pretty much fine for the voltage - there's quite a bit of it between the pins; there's much less fibreglass between the traces on the PCB.
   
  Speaking of which, I had to peel off a couple of layers of fibreglass off the PCB to get it to the correct thickness of around 1.2mm. If you do it - please be super-extra careful, peeling is not fun. Get your PCB fixed nice and tight and use something like an oyster knife or some other knife with rounded end.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Sure, see below, hopefully what you wanted to see is visible..
> 
> Plexi seems to be pretty much fine for the voltage - there's quite a bit of it between the pins; there's much less fibreglass between the traces on the PCB.
> 
> Speaking of which, I had to peel off a couple of layers of fibreglass off the PCB to get it to the correct thickness of around 1.2mm. If you do it - please be super-extra careful, peeling is not fun. Get your PCB fixed nice and tight and use something like an oyster knife or some other knife with rounded end.


 
  That is not a bad job, considering.  Heat shrink and a little chunk of acrylic tube stock epoxied onto the back of the plug would have prettied it up but for ho-made it's darn good!  Shows real resourcefulness!


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> That is not a bad job, considering.  Heat shrink and a little chunk of acrylic tube stock epoxied onto the back of the plug would have prettied it up but for ho-made it's darn good!  Shows real resourcefulness!


 
   
  Thank you, sir!  Considering that the piece of plex was actually a self-adhesive coat hanger that got a bit of a trimming and whatnot, too. 
   
  And thanks for the idea on how to pretty it up, I'll see if I can do it when I have time.
   
  -- Dmitri


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





padam said:


> 200-300 is my rough estimation but could be less or more, surely rarer than the already rare SR-Omega. They cost almost as much as the Lambda, so nobody was interested.
> I think they are very balanced from top to bottom, the midrange is the most impressive thing after all it is definitely more real than the O2 and free of glare unlike with most Lambdas.
> They are heavily damped so even though they go deep they will never you a kick in the back bass, very controlled. It is all about clarity, a "chemically pure" sound.
> And of course the soundstage is not so big either but well separated.
> ...


 

 I have one lying around. I got it as and add to my SRA14S. I Seller just gave it to me with the preamp (and also a Lambda Pro). I used it on lourneys together with my SRM-X Pro (+BPS).
  I liked it but never did a lot of comparison.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Just picked up a srm1-mk2 with two normal bias plugs. As I believe this is one of the older configurations for the amp, are there parts that should be changed out? Recapped? Etc...


----------



## spritzer

That amp is pre 1982 so new caps are in order.  You can leave the film caps alone but I did replace the output caps as they were in series.  Huge silver mica caps are far better than any poly box...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  These amps have one major problem though, the output devices are high voltage PNP's and there are no replacements.  Be super careful around them...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That amp is pre 1982 so new caps are in order.  You can leave the film caps alone but I did replace the output caps as they were in series.  Huge silver mica caps are far better than any poly box...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks spritzer.  I found your posted schematic for the pro version.  I'll look around for more "how to" posts.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

here's a quick shot of the inside of my srm1-mk2.  I assume the caps that need replacement are the 4 right under the variable resistors?  Sprizer, are those glass pieces along the bottom of the picture the unavailable parts you were referring to?
   
  What is the recommended cap for replacement for these?
  does the cap in the upper right hand corner need replacing as well?
   
  I did not include the big power caps in the picture.  but they should be ok?


----------



## spritzer

All the big caps have to go and replace with equal value and voltage rating.  It's ok to go a bit higher on both and just watch the pitch of the pins.  Any caps you can buy today will surpass these by a mile even when they were new but stick with Panasonic, Nichicon etc.  I also like to replace all diodes as they don't age well. 
   
  Those glass things are small poly caps and they will last for decades.  What you have there is the later SRM-1 Mk2 normal bias amp so it might have NPN transistors on the heatsinks. Impossible to tell from the pic.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The power resistors have to be replaced. There maybe other problems that are causing the resistors
To burn up


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> I got my 009 from elusive disc.  A number of times per year, they have a 10% off sale that includes everything, even the things labeled otherwise.  That gets you down in < $4700 range, includes US warranty and you can pay with AMEX so you get the extra warranty coverage...........plus shipping was free.
> 
> When will they do it again?  I don't know, perhaps labor day weekend?


 
   
  It's on again...................10% off everything, including Stax, until after Labor Day holiday (Sept 4)


----------



## soundoholic

Hello!
  I have a cable connection piece (NOS for lambda NB) and an old cable. Want make an extension cable from that stuff. But I am not quite sure, how to connect the cable. In the picture you see the same socket - back and front at the same position - up to up. 
  How does correspond EVERY PIN of the back side to the slots in front???
  Do you know the function of the "gold"  metal circle??


----------



## soundoholic

Sorry, as I think the ring serves as attachment for the cable (round?!). Now I have only the question to the position of pins and slots.


----------



## spritzer

That is the correct pinout but if you are going to use if with normal bias as well then you have to connect the center pin to the bias. 
   
  The old extension cables were round so that is the retaining ring for the cover.


----------



## soundoholic

Thanks, spritzer. I guess the slots are located along the solder points as at the picture. I will use only pro bias and so I fill the center slot with some epoxy resin.


----------



## spritzer

Yup, the slots are there to allow the fork contact to be pushed into the socket.  See the small tab next to the hole on the back?  Flatten it with pliers and you can remove the pin by pushing it out the front.


----------



## soundoholic

You´re right, I moved the tabs and saw the movement in the slots. Thanks.
  Now I work from time to time at the SRM-Xh, I bought last month. A little and sweet amp with some brightness in sound - it´s pushing my 007 Mk1 without problems (at mid levels)... And that needs urgently 8 new cups. No problem, I collected all for the swap (with about 20-50% more voltage res.). But I have no idea, where I could find a wiring diagram for it. Just curious about the construction of that baby. I know, it´s possible to provide better p. supply and increase voltage to 14-15V. Some other moderate tuning suggestions?
  (The pot knob is not that original).


----------



## spritzer

That one is a bit of an odd duck.  It was Stax trying to make an ultra cheap amp and it is the only Stax amp to feature mosfet output devices (K216).  I'm guessing they were burning off some T2 stocks.  It started life as the SRM-Xs amp for electrets but some were sold as Xh's as well with the bias hooked up.  It was quickly abandoned for the green PCB version.  I've worked on one of these and it sounds odd as one would expect with mosfets.  There is no heatsinking on the output devices so I didn't dare to increase the voltage plus the K216 is rather limited in terms of voltage.  I just replaced the caps and that's it. 
   
  With the green PCB you can go to town as seen here:
   

   
   
  Full balanced input with a TKD pot and higher rail voltages.


----------



## soundoholic

Wow... It' s max tuning I' ve ever seen. You changed almost all, what was suitable to change. Yeah, the green pcb has different design, indeed. The picture itself - very impressiv. Too bad that it does not sound as it looks.


----------



## NamelessPFG

eBay heads-up: Lambda Pro + SRD-7 Pro.
   
  It's an auction, so who knows what the final selling price might be, but the potential for a good deal is there...unless you end up going against the usual overzealous eBay bidders who bid way more than they should on these things. (Reminds me of the time when a Lambda Pro + SRM-1/Mk2 Pro sold for around $800 or so.)


----------



## ZarakiSan

Hey Spritzer! I have an SRM-Xs as well powering a pair of SR-202s. Any comments on this? It looks slightly different from the one soundoholic has but only slightly. Much later serial number though:


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Why does my customized Stax SRA 12 S sound worse than my stock SRA 12S?  What is up with the recent customizing of SRA 12 S's?  What exactly is changed? Any information would be great?


----------



## livewire

You got two of em?
  Customized? How? Who did it? When?
  Were _all_ of the electrolytics replaced?


----------



## YoengJyh




----------



## AnakChan

Thought I'd share my pleasant service from Stax today. I popped by their office 'cos (being vain), my SR-009 had a scratch on the headband so I wanted it replaced. They were very pleasant and accommodating! They'll will change my headband under warranty and ship the headphones back to me in the next day . They even asked if I wanted anything else done, so I asked for a general check. I'm very happy with their service despite the scratch being my fault.
   
   

   
  @Arnaud, sorry I went without you. As you can guess I won't have much time in the near future.


----------



## Radio_head

This is the house that Stax built.


----------



## blubliss

I would also like to share a positive Stax experience.  I sent an email to Yama's on Saturday and they replied on Monday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.  Further, they are sending a replacement part for my 009, which someone broke at the recent LA meet and did not say anything, at no charge.


----------



## wink

Stax Mueseum
   
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stax_Records
  The first house that Stax built.....


----------



## kevin gilmore

Wrong stax


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Wrong stax


 
  I realise this.
  Point being made is that there is more than one Stax.
  Needless to say, I prefer the Japanese rendition.
   
  I guess that is the way it stax up.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





wink said:


> I realise this.
> Point being made is that there is more than one Stax.
> Needless to say, I prefer the Japanese rendition.
> 
> I guess that is the way it stax up.


 
   
   
  Otis Redding and Isaac Hayes might disagree.


----------



## wink

I think Arthur Conley made the sweetest soul music.
   
  His label Atlantic originally distributed the Stax label.
   
http://www.georgwa.demon.co.uk/stax.htm
   
   
  I still prefer my Stax headphones over Otis and Issac.
   
  Ask me to pick between the SR007 Mk1 and Isaac, and Isaac gets the Shaft.


----------



## johnwmclean

You need a Stax on Stax sandwich.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Hey Livewire- no I have one customized which really doesn't sound that good and one normal or regular one.  The regular one sounds great with my Sigma non pros.  The Customized one sounds terrible.  The little label says " Improved Model Stax Industries Tokyo Japan." 
   
  I have also noticed that the price for the customized model is significantly higher.  Is there anyone out there in Headfi land that has a really good sound one?  Maybe I have to let the thing warm up for a couple of hours to enjoy it's benefits.  As it stands now, I just don't get it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





soundoholic said:


> Wow... It' s max tuning I' ve ever seen. You changed almost all, what was suitable to change. Yeah, the green pcb has different design, indeed. The picture itself - very impressiv. Too bad that it does not sound as it looks.


 
   
  That one does sound amazing and very different from the K216 version.  It made some Exstata owners very unhappy at CanJam '10 and Stax later took the same PCB and used it in the SRM-3 amp with a larger PSU and some part changes. 
   
  Quote: 





zarakisan said:


> Hey Spritzer! I have an SRM-Xs as well powering a pair of SR-202s. Any comments on this? It looks slightly different from the one soundoholic has but only slightly. Much later serial number though:


 
   
  It is the same amp but with aftermarket mod to populate the bias supply as it was empty when this amp shipped.  I'm guessing the S/N matches that of the SR-80Pro set which was sold with this amp as none of the small amps I've owned have a S/N anywhere close to that.


----------



## schorsch

Well,
   
  my SRA12S was overhauled by the German stax distributor.
  At that time it was much better than a SRM 1 Mk2 I had then.
   
  They swapped caps...
   
  I won't sell mine because it has a good phono section and just works.....
   
  It's here next to my computer, when I need to record some LPs to have them on the computer.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## schorsch

What about the malvalve amps ....
   
  are there some people who have auditoned them?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## ZarakiSan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It is the same amp but with aftermarket mod to populate the bias supply as it was empty when this amp shipped.  I'm guessing the S/N matches that of the SR-80Pro set which was sold with this amp as none of the small amps I've owned have a S/N anywhere close to that.


 
  Very interesting. I wonder who populated the bias supply then, since the previous owner had allegedly bought the set from a quality store.
   
  I now have an SR-323 to drive the SR-202 and SR-407 I have. Lovely piece of kit, it's better than the Xs, just not sure how much yet.
   
  Thanks mate .


----------



## milosz

Wait a minute.....


----------



## arnaud

^^ lol, good one ))


----------



## AnakChan

Hahaha!! Even my wife laughed at that one . Nice!!


----------



## AnakChan

Pelican 1400 Case for transporting the SR-009 (and the TH-900). In case owners are looking for secure transportable cases :-
   
   

   
   
   
   


Spoiler: OT%3A%20And%20the%20same%20case%20for%20the%20Fostex%20TH-900


----------



## MorbidToaster

Definitely thinking about the Pelican case.
   
  Oh, and in 2 - 4 weeks (whenever Jack decides to get my 009s I just threw money at him for) I'll have my LL + 009. My poor wallet.


----------



## arnaud

MorbidToaster, nice! Wrap that up with an LCD3 and Liquid Glass and you're all set


----------



## MorbidToaster

Turntable first, then a new car, then we'll talk. 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> MorbidToaster, nice! Wrap that up with an LCD3 and Liquid Glass and you're all set


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Turntable first, then a new car, then we'll talk.


 
  New car after new source, yep, sounds reasonable


----------



## MorbidToaster

It's funny because the new source is gonna cost damn near what the new (used) car is. 
   
  I've been putting off my analog rig for a long time because I kept hearing amps/cans I wanted. Now that there's nowhere to go...time for my TT.
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> New car after new source, yep, sounds reasonable


----------



## Anaxilus

I swear by Pelican cases.  Lifetime Warranty and buoyancy ratings.  I've seen laptops survive falls from the Golden Gate bridge into the bay and getting crushed by the breech of a M1A1 tank gun.


----------



## alcyst

Pelican? No way! You gotta go with Stormcase. Or at least you did until Pelican bought, not sure if the quality has changed.
   
  Apparently the "truck driving over a case" demonstration is more show than substance.


----------



## Magick Man

SR-009s have been in the house for a few days now and I'm really enjoying them with my GES, the SRM-717 seems a shade too bright for me. I'm very pleased that this cheaper amp is doing such a great job, saves me some money.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> The power resistors have to be replaced. There maybe other problems that are causing the resistors
> To burn up


 
  If your referring to the 3 grey resistors on the left, I think they have shadows on them.  I don't think they are burnt out.  I'll look again.


----------



## NamelessPFG

eBay heads-up:
   
SRM-313
   
  What in the...I thought all SRM-313s had at least one Normal bias socket and that the succeeding SRM-323 was the Pro bias-only one! That diminishes the appeal to me.
   
  Also, it's set for 100V. I wonder how easy it is to change the voltage setting to 117V/120V so no one has to bother with a step-down transformer.
   
SRM-1/Mk2 Pro
   
  "B" revision, 117V. I would be tempted if not for that high starting bid price at $400 + $24 shipping; isn't the more appropriate price for an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro around $300 shipped?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> If your referring to the 3 grey resistors on the left, I think they have shadows on them.  I don't think they are burnt out.  I'll look again.


 
  that is what happens when i look at stuff like this on an ipad.
  i just looked again on my real monitor.  Everything looks ok.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> eBay heads-up:
> 
> SRM-313
> 
> ...


 
   
  When I was looking, they all go for between 400-600.  you might find a normal/normal one for $3something if you hold out.
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> that is what happens when i look at stuff like this on an ipad.
> i just looked again on my real monitor.  Everything looks ok.


 
   
  Thanks for taking the time to look at all.  I trust your eyes more then mine.
   
  I'm going to start a cap list for the recap tonight.  I'll look at the panasonics or nichicons.  I haven't looked yet, but what make caps should I use for this application?  film, aluminum, etc??


----------



## redcat2

Just in case anyone is after a SRM-1/MK-2 there is one up on ebay with a not to bad buy it now price,http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-Earspeaker-Headphone-Amplifier-SRM-1-MK-2-Professional-/251142810475?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item3a79472b6b


----------



## redcat2

I have been watching the pricing on the SRM-1/MK-2 units a lot over the last 12 months, on ebay and here as well seems that pricing now is above the $400,00 mark as a base quite often the price ends up been around $580.00 ish, just for the unit it self.


----------



## NamelessPFG

And to think that, in the past, I saw those SRM-1/Mk2 Pros sell for around $300-325 by themselves, or even $400 with an SR-Lambda Pro...
   
  I'm honestly starting to think that the headphones themselves are the _cheap_ part of electrostatic systems, and the amps are the real wallet slayers. It would be a lot easier if I just wanted Pro bias, given the cheaper SRM-212s and SRM-252s floating around, but I'd really hate to give up support for the original SR-Lambda.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I'm going to start a cap list for the recap tonight.  I'll look at the panasonics or nichicons.  I haven't looked yet, but what make caps should I use for this application?  film, aluminum, etc??


 
   
  Panas or Nichis are good.
  You want to source aluminum _*electrolytic*_ capacitors. *Not *aluminum organic polymer caps.
  The electrolytic caps look like small aluminum beer cans with a plastic label wrapped around the outside.
  The guts of the electrolytics dry out over time. They are the caps that need to be replaced.
  Make sure the capacitance and voltage ratings are the same or _slightly_ higher than the old ones.
  For a given capacitance value, modern caps tend to be physically smaller than the old ones.
  Check the data sheets for actual dimensions as compared to the old ones.
  An important aspect is the radial lead spacing. It should be close or the same so they will fit into the circuit board holes.
  Also avoid buying anything with an outside diameter that is larger than what the old parts have,
  If you do go wider on the diameter - check for fit around the periphery of the existing component. (not crowded with nearby parts)
  Most electrolytics are marked on the outside to indicate polarity. (+ / -)
  Do not insert them into the board backwards. They will explode and possibly ruin your amplifier.
  If your board is not marked as to the cap's polarity, draw a map indicating polarity orientation before removing the old caps.
  Good luck!  Replacing these parts usually makes a big positive difference in the way things sound.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Panas or Nichis are good.
> You want to source aluminum _*electrolytic*_ capacitors. *Not *aluminum organic polymer caps.
> The electrolytic caps look like small aluminum beer cans with a plastic label wrapped around the outside.
> The guts of the electrolytics dry out over time. They are the caps that need to be replaced.
> ...


 
  couldnt have asked for better instruction.  A huge thank you.  Spritzer suggested a diode swap out as well.  diode suggestion?  When I did my Fisher 500c, I was totally cool with doing the work, but I needed the kit to make sure I had the right parts.  I learned a lot, but clearly not enough.  plus, you guys are the stax experts.  I cant wait to hear this amp all tuned up.  I may actually be done with my mid-fi stax setup for a while.


----------



## spritzer

UF4007's work for the power supply diodes and remember that you have to adjust the DC offset and balance of the amp once the work is done.  I have a SRM-1 Mk2 PP incoming soon that I will completely rebuild and I can list part numbers when all is said and done.


----------



## pkshan

Hello
  I rewired a SRM600 from 100v to 220v today,
   
  No smoke came out,I can hear the music,sound pretty good
  & the +/- bias voltage is under 1v.
   
  BUT when i measure +/GND,the voltage is -200v??
   
  I did the same conversion on 007ta before & got no problem
  any ideas?


----------



## kevin gilmore

You need to adjust the offset pot to get it back to zero.
   
  But first measure the power supply rails.
   
  Don't leave it this way for long, the plate resistors will burn up.


----------



## pkshan

kevin gilmore said:


> You need to adjust the offset pot to get it back to zero.
> 
> But first measure the power supply rails.
> 
> Don't leave it this way for long, the plate resistors will burn up.


 
   
  I just rolled back to 100v, and using a  220v to100 transformer now.
  but the +/GND voltage is still -200v....
   
  I tried to adjust the TVR2 offset pot, the lowest I could get is about -170v
   
  Seems the amp was already damaged when I received it.
   
  is there something burned ?


----------



## kevin gilmore

don't have a picture of the srm600 handy.
   
  make sure the volume control is at zero.
   
  The + power supply can be measured easily at the top end of
  the plate resistors.  Should be +320 (version 1)  should be +350 (version 2)
   
  The - supply i don't remember the easiest place to measure.
  Should be -350 (version 1) or -375 (version 2)
   
  Since you have a minus offset, i would measure the + supply first.
   
  Same for both channels??


----------



## schorsch

Has one of you ever tried this amps?
   
  http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html
   
  Scroll down -< there is an English version of that homepage....
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> don't have a picture of the srm600 handy.
> 
> make sure the volume control is at zero.
> 
> ...


 
   
  
   
  I measure from the 220uf large capacitors , the value is +400v & -397v,
   
  yes both channels are same....


----------



## kevin gilmore

Your power supply voltages are 50 volts high resulting in the circuit not being able to balance
  correctly. You are also running very close to the maximum voltages on the electrolytics.
  According to my schematic, the voltage between orange and brown as AC should be 270v
  and the voltage on red and white should also be 270v
   
  blue to blue should be 12.6v ac
   
  If you want to continue to run at these voltages you are going to need to increase the value of R20
  which is 1.5k.  Make it 2.5K  This is the resistor in series with tvr2 and might be labeled differently.
   
  If you are actually 240v instead of 220v, then you might be wiring the transformer incorrectly.
  And your 220v to 120v transformer might also be 15% high
   
  Measure the +15 and -15 voltages, because a bad +15 voltage could also cause this.


----------



## pkshan

I did more measurement,
  seems there are some issues in the tube voltage(pin3?)
  please help


----------



## kevin gilmore

-400 volts on the center of the filament consistent with everything else.
   
  cathode and grid voltage the same is a bad thing.
   
  check values of plate resistors with the power off.
   
  could be the tubes are trashed.


----------



## pkshan

Sorry, noob question
  you meant this one? i measured it, it's 1kohm


----------



## pkshan

I unplug the tubes, measured again
  pin1:+80v
  pin2:-390v
  pin3:-415v
  pin4:-415v....






...
   
  update: I replace the tubes with new one, still no luck..


----------



## kevin gilmore

if you have measured with the tubes removed, then
  pin 1 at +80 is very bad.  It needs to be +400
  but this is going to cause feeback issues and may burn
  up the input fet.
   
  check the 30k plate resistors.


----------



## spritzer

There is no way the amp is supposed to run at +/-400V with 400V caps.  Something is wrong with the primary wiring to get that high a voltage. 
   
  The plate resistors are the large 30K units on top of the board.  That 1K resistor is likely the cathode resistor for one of the triodes which sets the offset in conjunction with a pot.


----------



## pkshan

I think it's because my transformer is 220v -> 110v,& the amp is 100v? (I will do the 220v rewire later)
  yes, 4  plate resistors are bad, I will place them
  Are there other issues beside the bad plate resistors?
  because I am afraid the amp will burn the $$$ new AMRG resistors again...
   
  Thank you


----------



## kevin gilmore

this should help you troubleshoot.  missing low voltage supplies, relay delay, dc filament regulators...
  Seriously you need to get the 400V down to 350V like the spec.
   
   
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm600.pdf
   
  running that amp at 120v when set to 100v was a very bad thing.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> UF4007's work for the power supply diodes and remember that you have to adjust the DC offset and balance of the amp once the work is done.  I have a SRM-1 Mk2 PP incoming soon that I will completely rebuild and I can list part numbers when all is said and done.


 
  It would probably be smarter for me to wait for your list.  But the parts to be replaced looks like a simple enough process.  Board seems pretty spacious and easily accessible.  I never did check the dc offset as it is now.  I'll have to check that.  I'll be keeping an eye out for your part list.  also, I'm jealous that you have the PP version of this amp.  thats what I was really looking for.  Look forward to your write up on it if you do one.


----------



## pkshan

Thanks Kevin!
   
  SRM600 is the best Stax made vacuum amp
  sound sweeter ,clearer than the 007ts, more refined.more musical
   
  It's sad that they don't make it anymore
  The even worse thing is, the amp is not mine


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I think it's because my transformer is 220v -> 110v,& the amp is 100v? (I will do the 220v rewire later)
> yes, 4  plate resistors are bad, I will place them
> Are there other issues beside the bad plate resistors?
> because I am afraid the amp will burn the $$$ new AMRG resistors again...
> ...


 
   
  Those plate resistors burning up is very unlikely though.  You are feeding the amp 10% more voltage than it should be seeing so that would explain the extra DC voltage.  The PSU is as simple as it can be so nothing to stop it rising too high.  Two questions though, are you using ECC99's in the amp and how were you wiring it for 220V?  Personally I'd wire it for 240V just to make it run a bit cooler... 
   
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> It would probably be smarter for me to wait for your list.  But the parts to be replaced looks like a simple enough process.  Board seems pretty spacious and easily accessible.  I never did check the dc offset as it is now.  I'll have to check that.  I'll be keeping an eye out for your part list.  also, I'm jealous that you have the PP version of this amp.  thats what I was really looking for.  Look forward to your write up on it if you do one.


 
   
  If you can give me a parts list of your amp (caps, their value and voltage rating) and the pitch of those parts then I can make a list for you. 
   
  This PP is a mess but I guess I'm then only one which has the required parts in stock.  Some bright spark decided to remove the volume control and I just happen to have an identical one...


----------



## kevin gilmore

see schematic posted above
   
  errors fixed


----------



## pkshan

The SRM600 is not mine, I just did the 220v rewire. then found the problem. (forgot to measure it before rewiring
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 )
  Thanks for the 240v tips, I will try it on my T1S
   
  update:
   
  I rewired it to 220v again ,now it's +350v , -347v
  seems in spec


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> this should help you troubleshoot.  missing low voltage supplies, relay delay, dc filament regulators...
> Seriously you need to get the 400V down to 350V like the spec.
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The R15/16  & ECC99 pin3 both are -339v ,
   Replace the plate resistors will solve it?
  the tubes have no problem
   
  update: I tried replace the bad 30k resistors with 33k on one channel, (I don't have 30k on my hand now)
  the +/GND voltage drop to -30v, much better!
  I will buy some AMRG 30K resistors later,
   
  Thanks for all the help


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If you can give me a parts list of your amp (caps, their value and voltage rating) and the pitch of those parts then I can make a list for you.
> 
> This PP is a mess but I guess I'm then only one which has the required parts in stock.  Some bright spark decided to remove the volume control and I just happen to have an identical one...


 
  Here is my attempt at being helpful.  I do not have proper calipers to measure the size of the caps.  I measured as best I could.  hopefully its informative enough.  do all the diodes need replacing?  or just some?  Included some pictures.  1. a close up of the heatsinks.  can you tell if they have the unavailable parts?  2.  a closeup of the diodes that I couldnt read all of.  3.  a close up of one odd cap.
   
Srm1/mk2 parts list

C005
Ce-num
35v 470uF
3.1 cm tall
1.5 cm wide
Pins - .8 cm

C102  &  103
C202 & 203
Ce-num
4x - 10v220uF
2cm tall
1cm wide
Pins - .6cm

C006 & C007
2x - 100MFD 400VDC
Cew 85 degrees
6cm tall
3cm wide
Pins - 1.3 cm
   
C008 (replace this as well?)  I assume so.  there is only one.
0.1-250 NTK
Pins 1.5cm

Diodes
D004, D005, D006, D007
Blue grey 30 (if there was more, I could not read it)
Pins 1.5cm

D001, D002, D003
RA-1
Pins 1cm


----------



## NamelessPFG

eBay heads-up:
   
SRM-T1 for $670 shipped!
   
  Given what I'm seeing SRM-T1 variants go for these days, this may actually be a good price...but after buying a new monitor today, I'm in no position to buy it.
   
SR-Lambda + SRD-7 + new earpads, auction with 15 hours left
   
  This one could be a good deal if the bidding doesn't get too crazy.
   
SR-5 + SRD-5, auction with 2 days left
   
  I'm not sure how these pre-Lambda models Stax up to the Lambda series, but if you can get 'em for a low price, why not? I haven't heard anything particularly bad about the SR-3s, SR-5s, and SR-X/Mk3s out there, just that they're not quite as good as Lambda models are.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The R15/16  & ECC99 pin3 both are -339v ,
> Replace the plate resistors will solve it?
> the tubes have no problem
> 
> ...


 
   
  You could also have burned up some of the sand.  The PNP's are 2SA1156's which are only rated at 400V and if they went then they could have taken most of the front end with them. 
   
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Here is my attempt at being helpful.  I do not have proper calipers to measure the size of the caps.  I measured as best I could.  hopefully its informative enough.  do all the diodes need replacing?  or just some?  Included some pictures.  1. a close up of the heatsinks.  can you tell if they have the unavailable parts?  2.  a closeup of the diodes that I couldnt read all of.  3.  a close up of one odd cap.
> 
> Srm1/mk2 parts list
> 
> ...


 
   
  No need to replace the film caps as they will last another 30 years.  I would replace all the diodes though and UF4007's will do the trick.  Here are some Mouser part numbers:
   
  667-EET-ED2G101BA
  512-UF4007
  667-EEU-FC1H471
  667-EEU-FC1E221


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Has one of you ever tried this amps?
> 
> http://www.high-amp.de/html/frame.html
> 
> ...


 
   
  Hi Georg,
   
  Check this post earlier in this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/18960#post_8556506


----------



## schorsch

THanks)
   
  I thought I could get more first hand information from experienced head-fiers because my next buy is
   
  BHSE      or      malvalve     or     v4amp??? byhigh-amp
   
  Regards Georg
   
  Update on the Pawel hp-1 processor. I always use it when the SR007Mk2 is on my head switching between difusse field and binautral (dpending on the recording)
   
  The unit is NEVER bypassed.


----------



## redcat2

For all those on the search for a
 Stax SRM-1/MK-2 Headphones Amplifier SR Lambda Professional Electrostatic Ear   
  ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SRM-1-MK-2-Headphones-Amplifier-SR-Lambda-Professional-Electrostatic-Ear-/160876359790?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2574fa706e


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





redcat2 said:


> For all those on the search for a
> Stax SRM-1/MK-2 Headphones Amplifier SR Lambda Professional Electrostatic Ear
> ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SRM-1-MK-2-Headphones-Amplifier-SR-Lambda-Professional-Electrostatic-Ear-/160876359790?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2574fa706e


 
  I would guess it will no longer go for under $500.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No need to replace the film caps as they will last another 30 years.  I would replace all the diodes though and UF4007's will do the trick.  Here are some Mouser part numbers:
> 
> 667-EET-ED2G101BA
> 512-UF4007
> ...


 
  Thank you spritzer.  incredibly helpful.  Just so I'm clear.  The red/orange film caps stay.  All diodes are changed to the uf4007, even the RA-1's.. and C008 stays?


----------



## redcat2

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I would guess it will no longer go for under $500.


 
   

   I think it will go for around $725.00 with those headphones, based on what items have been selling for.


----------



## milosz

Magnavox electrostatic headphones?
   
  Are these made by Stax?  Staxish looking connectors, low bias looks like.  Are these based on a known model?
  (an eBay item, obviously)


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Magnavox electrostatic headphones?
> 
> Are these made by Stax?  Staxish looking connectors, low bias looks like.  Are these based on a known model?
> (an eBay item, obviously)


 
   
  I was wondering the same thing myself, silently watching that same auction.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Thank you spritzer.  incredibly helpful.  Just so I'm clear.  The red/orange film caps stay.  All diodes are changed to the uf4007, even the RA-1's.. and C008 stays?


 
   
  Yes to everything.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Magnavox electrostatic headphones?
> 
> Are these made by Stax?  Staxish looking connectors, low bias looks like.  Are these based on a known model?
> (an eBay item, obviously)


 
   
  These were made by Stax plus a bunch of others like them, Realistic, Marantz, etc.  The drivers were very similar to the SR-3N units but not electrically the same. 
   
  Somebody unloaded a bunch of these on ebay some years back and I bought a few sets for fun.  All gone now though...


----------



## rgs9200m

Is there anything to the rumor that Stax is working on a successor to its "top" current amps (the 727a and the 007t/ii)?
  Or has the Stax takeover squashed that?
  Thanks.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Yes to everything.


 
  Thank you again, I'll place that order tonight.  One thing though.  The first Cap on the list is a "snap in" cap.  is that what I want?
   
   Just for my own knowledge, is C008 a film cap?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

I'll place my bet at about 550-650 on that ebay listing.


----------



## jaycalgary

Should start a nice addiction.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





redcat2 said:


> For all those on the search for a
> Stax SRM-1/MK-2 Headphones Amplifier SR Lambda Professional Electrostatic Ear
> ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SRM-1-MK-2-Headphones-Amplifier-SR-Lambda-Professional-Electrostatic-Ear-/160876359790?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2574fa706e


 
   
  Dear god, the bidding's gone over-the-top on that one now!
   
  Factoring in shipping, it's almost $645, which is within spitting distance of this $670 shipped SRM-T1.
   
  Of course, there's still the whole solid-state vs. vacuum tube distinction, but I figured people would only pay up that much for the tube amps.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

namelesspfg said:


> Dear god, the bidding's gone over-the-top on that one now!
> 
> Factoring in shipping, it's almost $645, which is within spitting distance of this $670 shipped SRM-T1.
> 
> Of course, there's still the whole solid-state vs. vacuum tube distinction, but I figured people would only pay up that much for the tube amps.




That's crazy. Especially with 3 days left.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Is there anything to the rumor that Stax is working on a successor to its "top" current amps (the 727a and the 007t/ii)?
> Or has the Stax takeover squashed that?
> Thanks.


 
   
  The takeover has given them some much needed capital so now they can do some real R&D.  They will need to do it too since almost all the transistors they normally use have been discontinued, even the C5466... 
   
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Thank you again, I'll place that order tonight.  One thing though.  The first Cap on the list is a "snap in" cap.  is that what I want?
> 
> Just for my own knowledge, is C008 a film cap?


 
   
  The large PSU caps are always snap in on these things and C008 is indeed a film cap.  Anything square is normally a film cap.


----------



## schorsch

update on malvalve amps
   
  Today is a very enthusiastic article in the German magazine LP about he heamp 3 made by malvalve (4000Euro!)
  It is an amp that can drive ALL kinds of headphones
  dynamic / electrostatic / magnetostatic   and high efficient speakers.
   
  Well I phoned malvalve to get more information about their headamp one (I on ly need one for electrostatic headphones)
   
  The information I got is really astounding.
   
  Their headamp one is basically an OTL poweramp without output transormers to drive a Stax headphone directly (about 100W!!!)
  It is also possible to get switchable transformers to use this headphone amp with loudspeakers.
  Their homepage is lacking information at the moment but they'll soon update.
   
  They told me that in their expereince the difference between the different stax amps and their amps is larger than the difference between earspeakers?!
  I'll try as soon as possible.
  The only problem is that this heapamp one s about 6000Euro plus transormers for loudspeaker usage....
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Where does one connect multimeter probes to check for dc offset on the srm1/mk2? This would be easier with some kind of schematic. But I digress


----------



## livewire

That would be at the STAX jack and ground.
  The procedure is here at HF. Run a search.
  I think Spritzer has posted it a hundred times.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Use a quality DMM capable of reading / withstanding 600 volts.
  Be careful, you could burn up the amp if these adjustments are done wrong.
  DO NOT plug your tester into the bias terminal of the jack.


----------



## spritzer

Offset is the + output from each channel to ground (the ring on the RCA's at the back works well) and the balanced is between + and -.  Do remember that Stax were sometimes extra annoying and swapped the labels for the pots.  Probably thought it was funny...
   
  Quote: 





schorsch said:


> update on malvalve amps
> 
> Today is a very enthusiastic article in the German magazine LP about he heamp 3 made by malvalve (4000Euro!)
> It is an amp that can drive ALL kinds of headphones
> ...


 
   
  Just about any push-pull tube amp can do that so nothing astounding about it.  It is even easier with no transformers to worry about, just add some high load for the output and add some output capacitors plus a bias supply and you are good to go.  This doesn't mean it is a good solution though and for 6K€ it better have something more than a switching PSU and a bog standard tube circuit from the 50's.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  ETA 1-3 weeks.


----------



## AnakChan

macedonianhero said:


> Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today. :blink:
> 
> ETA 1-3 weeks.



Welcome to the club! I'm sure you'll like your set and would love to hear your impressions once you've given them some time. You may wanna hang on to your Bogdan Goldy's as they may be useful for your SRM727II !!


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Welcome to the club! I'm sure you'll like your set and would love to hear your impressions once you've given them some time. You may wanna hang on to your Bogdan Goldy's as they may be useful for your SRM727II !!


 
  Good point. Sale going on-hold.


----------



## jaycalgary

There is a Blue Hawaii and 009s on Ebay. Weather it is worth it or not I don't know.


----------



## n3rdling

MH I thought you hated electrostats?  Did you get a chance to audition the 009s?
   
  The BH/009 listing on ebay is pretty shady.  He's trying to use the price of the BHSE and original MSRP of the 009 to validate his system's 'worth'.  His BH is a DIY build that was likely originally sold for parts cost (probably around $2000) then later went to some momo guy who I believe caused damage to the amp and later flipped it.  The BHSE price he quotes is also the version with the ALPS RK50, which is a $1000 upgrade.  Not to mention the difference in build quality (no knock on the builder of that amp as it's a nice build and he's really skilled, but it's kinda hard to compete with HeadAmp build quality) and warranty if something goes wrong.  That BH also has the rails running at lower values IIRC.  He claims the 009 is worth $6000 but it can be had for well under $4500 brand new and probably goes for about $4000 used here.  Total package is probably worth about $5500.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> MH I thought you hated electrostats?  Did you get a chance to audition the 009s?
> 
> The BH/009 listing on ebay is pretty shady.  He's trying to use the price of the BHSE and original MSRP of the 009 to validate his system's 'worth'.  His BH is a DIY build that was likely originally sold for parts cost (probably around $2000) then later went to some momo guy who I believe caused damage to the amp and later flipped it.  The BHSE price he quotes is also the version with the ALPS RK50, which is a $1000 upgrade.  Not to mention the difference in build quality (no knock on the builder of that amp as it's a nice build and he's really skilled, but it's kinda hard to compete with HeadAmp build quality) and warranty if something goes wrong.  That BH also has the rails running at lower values IIRC.  He claims the 009 is worth $6000 but it can be had for well under $4500 brand new and probably goes for about $4000 used here.  Total package is probably worth about $5500.


 
  Wasn't a fan of the e-stats I've heard to this point. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  That said, the sale on at Elusivedisc was too good to pass up and they do seem (and measure) like the real deal. Haven't heard them yet, but dying to.


----------



## livewire

@ n3rdling - couldn't have said it better myself.


----------



## arnaud

MH, what a surprising news! I hope you like the combo, it should probably cure the upgraditis for a while .

Looking forward to your impressions, whichever direction they swing to!


----------



## Rumbleripper

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Wasn't a fan of the e-stats I've heard to this point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  MH:
   
  you will not be disappointed. Recently got the 009's with the Liquid Lightning and the definitely best the LCD-3's/WA5 combo. Looking forward to hearing your impressions of the 009's.
   
  Rumble


----------



## MorbidToaster

So you bought them blind? Oh boy. I hope you end up feeling the way I do about them. I was absolutely floored...and you know the rest. 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Wasn't a fan of the e-stats I've heard to this point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Rumbleripper

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> So you bought them blind? Oh boy. I hope you end up feeling the way I do about them. I was absolutely floored...and you know the rest.


 
  Morbid:
   
  Did you get yours yet? I know you were trying to sell your LF and HD800's.
   
  Rumble


----------



## MorbidToaster

Not yet (I ordered them from Jack last week). I finally got it all sold and ordered them straight away. Alex has my LL burning in right now ready for the delivery date from Jack. 
   
  So close...yet so far away.
   
  EDIT: I've been without cans for ~a month and a half. This has been a great sacrifice...but it'll all be worth it.
   
  Quote: 





rumbleripper said:


> Morbid:
> 
> Did you get yours yet? I know you were trying to sell your LF and HD800's.
> 
> Rumble


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> MH, what a surprising news! I hope you like the combo, it should probably cure the upgraditis for a while
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





rumbleripper said:


> MH:
> 
> you will not be disappointed. Recently got the 009's with the Liquid Lightning and the definitely best the LCD-3's/WA5 combo. Looking forward to hearing your impressions of the 009's.
> 
> Rumble


 
   
  Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> So you bought them blind? Oh boy. I hope you end up feeling the way I do about them. I was absolutely floored...and you know the rest.


 
   
  Well, I've sold off my T1s and had an itch I needed scratched (and you guys weren't helping either 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## MorbidToaster

I bet you'll like them. We have similar ears (at least I think so) and you weren't wowed by any of your previous stat experiences either. Never heard the 727 but if it's even a fraction of what the LL was when I heard it you'll enjoy them.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, I've sold off my T1s and had an itch I needed scratched (and you guys weren't helping
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I bet you'll like them. We have similar ears (at least I think so) and you weren't wowed by any of your previous stat experiences either. Never heard the 727 but if it's even a fraction of what the LL was when I heard it you'll enjoy them.


 
  Fingers crossed. I do hold out hope for them (SR009s) and based on what I've heard, looks like Stax has come through in spades. Now I just need to sit back and wait for them to come in.


----------



## MorbidToaster

At least you're not like me and still have tons of good equipment to enjoy music on while you wait. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Fingers crossed. I do hold out hope for them (SR009s) and based on what I've heard, looks like Stax has come through in spades. Now I just need to sit back and wait for them to come in.


----------



## Arnaldo

I got my SR-009/SRM-727II combo directly from Stax USA a few weeks ago. Suffice to say that my upgraditis should be under control for quite a while. I'll advise you though to be patient with the SRM-727II, which unlike the SR-009, does require some burning in.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> MH, what a surprising news! I hope you like the combo, it should probably cure the upgraditis for a while
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





arnaldo said:


> I got my SR-009/SRM-727II combo directly from Stax USA a few weeks ago. Suffice to say that my upgraditis should be under control for quite a while. I'll advise you though to be patient with the SRM-727II, which unlike the SR-009, does require some burning in.


 
  Thanks for the heads up on the burn-in. I usually give amps/headphones 150 hours before passing critical judgements.


----------



## Rumbleripper

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Fingers crossed. I do hold out hope for them (SR009s) and based on what I've heard, looks like Stax has come through in spades. Now I just need to sit back and wait for them to come in.


 
   
  Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> At least you're not like me and still have tons of good equipment to enjoy music on while you wait.


 
   
  Waiting is always the hardest part when you order new gear but oh so rewarding when it arrives. Morbid I really hope your 009's come in soon, it really has to be awful to wait without music.
  Please post up your impressions when you get your stax rig in Peter, looking forward to your impressions.
   
  Rumble


----------



## vinyllp33

jaycalgary said:


> There is a Blue Hawaii and 009s on Ebay. Weather it is worth it or not I don't know.




Quoted from the eBay listing, this is the seller's "guarantee" or lack thereof:

"All Sales Are Final and As Is and Shown.  This means: All items are tested unless mentioned otherwise.  Electronics, due to time and age, are prone to failure from rough handling during shipment. We make no guarantee that they will work after shipment.  MOST will, some will die from parts being shaken, broken or jarred during shipment and because of age they can fail." 

Caveat Emptor!


----------



## sridhar3

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Congrats, and welcome to the club!
   
About damn time.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





sridhar3 said:


> Congrats, and welcome to the club!
> 
> About damn time.


 
  LoL...thanks!


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





vinyllp33 said:


> Quoted from the eBay listing, this is the seller's "guarantee" or lack thereof:
> "All Sales Are Final and As Is and Shown.  This means: All items are tested unless mentioned otherwise.  Electronics, due to time and age, are prone to failure from rough handling during shipment. We make no guarantee that they will work after shipment.  MOST will, some will die from parts being shaken, broken or jarred during shipment and because of age they can fail."
> Caveat Emptor!


 
  Sounds like the 30-30 warranty. 30 feet after they leave or 30 seconds; whichever comes first. I'd be very wary of spending so much $ on such an ebay listing.


----------



## vinyllp33

And if they plan on sending the amp only in the box it is sitting on in the photo, I can tell you in no uncertain terms that shipping damage will occur.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Congratulations Peter! I got my 009/727II combo a few months back and I love them.


----------



## NoGood

Hey guys/girls,
   
  If I get let's say the Stax SR 4170 i.e headphone+ amp combo, what will I need apart from them to connect them to my laptop? All my music are FLAC, so I guess the source is decent?


----------



## xzobinx

you might want to visit the dedicated-source-components section of head-fi
  Quote: 





nogood said:


> Hey guys/girls,
> 
> If I get let's say the Stax SR 4170 i.e headphone+ amp combo, what will I need apart from them to connect them to my laptop? All my music are FLAC, so I guess the source is decent?


----------



## Anaxilus

Make sure you leave the new rig on for a few days before you give them a proper evaluation/ AB session.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, it seems that I've pre-ordered the SR009/SR727II from Elusivedisc today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Congratulations Peter!


----------



## Pettnolf

Bought mine recently blind too, best hi-fi buy ever! Perfect headphones imo 

No need to buy a superpowerful amp to go along with them either imo since they are rather easy to drive.


----------



## arnaud

Humm, so maybe we are not as few as it seems using the 009 with a stax amp. That makes that many deaf users among the stax mafia, eh . I am still looking forward to hearing something like the LL or Electra though (the T2 I can forget it I guess)...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Congratulations Peter! I got my 009/727II combo a few months back and I love them.


 
   


rubenpp said:


> Congratulations Peter!


 
   
   
   
   
  Thanks guys. Now the hard part...waiting a few weeks to actually get them.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Thanks guys. Now the hard part...waiting a few weeks to actually get them.


 
   
  maybe you'll be surprised, as i was.
   
  i ordered with 24 hour delivery option when ED's web site said theev 009 were 'out of stock'.............and was astonished when they arrived on my doorstop unexpectedly the next day (and luckily i was home at the time).................not saying it will happen to you, but you never know.
   
  congrats...............they are wonderful


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> maybe you'll be surprised, as i was.
> 
> i ordered with 24 hour delivery option when ED's web site said theev 009 were 'out of stock'.............and was astonished when they arrived on my doorstop unexpectedly the next day (and luckily i was home at the time).................not saying it will happen to you, but you never know.
> 
> congrats...............they are wonderful


 
  Thanks for the heads up. Sadly I actually talked to the sales agent (ordered them over the phone) and while they have the silver SR727II in stock, they were working with StaxUSA to get the SR009s in a week or two. Oh well, at least I've got my other headphones/amps to keep me busy in the meantime.


----------



## juantendo8

I'm heavily considering dipping my toes into the Stax scene and have a few questions. 
   
  Would ~$350 for an original Stax Lambda (standard bias) in fairly good used condition be a good value for venturing into electrostatics? Would I be much better off going with something like the SR-207? It seems like the original lambda sound signature is held in higher regard by many people.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I LOVE the original SR-Lambda's sound presentation (moreso than the SR-202; don't know how that compares to the SR-207) and lower clamping force, but $350 is a bit on the high side even with an SRD-7 (or variant thereof, usually the SRD-7/SB), and definitely overpriced without even a transformer box to go with it.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I LOVE the original SR-Lambda's sound presentation (moreso than the SR-202; don't know how that compares to the SR-207) and lower clamping force, but $350 is a bit on the high side even with an SRD-7 (or variant thereof, usually the SRD-7/SB), and definitely overpriced without even a transformer box to go with it.


 
   
  If I could manage to snag one with an SRD-7 around $300-320, would that be a decent value? I'm really trying to pinch my pennies here so a brand new Stax is not really an option. However, I also want to get a product that can outperform (at least in some ways) my current headphones. After going the dynamic and ortho route, I get the feeling that stats are the right technology for me.


----------



## n3rdling

The SR-Lambda used to go for about $250 but it seems the value has gone up in the last year which is understandable given the rarity and high regard given to the headphone.  It's an awesome headphone; you could easily stop upgrading forever after getting a Lambda variant.  It's better than pretty much every dynamic and ortho headphone ever and it's the best value in HP audio IMO.  I see a Richter quote in your sig so I can only assume you're a fan of classical...get them, you'll be thrilled.


----------



## Currawong

Damn, I shouldn't read this thread. It reminds me that I need to upgrade from the T1S.


----------



## juantendo8

Seeing as lately I've been listening to nothing but classical, I think it's about time to get the Stax and get away from this site for a while
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. The world of ultimate clarity awaits.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





vinyllp33 said:


> Quoted from the eBay listing, this is the seller's "guarantee" or lack thereof:
> "All Sales Are Final and As Is and Shown.  This means: All items are tested unless mentioned otherwise.  Electronics, due to time and age, are prone to failure from rough handling during shipment. We make no guarantee that they will work after shipment.  MOST will, some will die from parts being shaken, broken or jarred during shipment and because of age they can fail."
> Caveat Emptor!


 
   
  Regardless of the added weasel-words, any item listed on eBay using eBay's  "Item condition: Used"  category  is defined by ebay as  "[size=small]The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, *but is fully operational and functions as intended*.[/size][size=small]"  [/size][size=small]So, if a buyer got this thing and it didn't work, or worked imperfectly he should expect the seller to refund his money and shipping, and pay for return shipping as well. If the thing doesn't work, or works improperly, and the  seller refuses a full refund, the buyer would very likely win an ebay / paypal dispute.[/size]
   
[size=small]A seller can choose to list an item WITHOUT a condition, in which case this wouldn't apply.[/size]


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Humm, so maybe we are not as few as it seems using the 009 with a stax amp. That makes that many deaf users among the stax mafia, eh . I am still looking forward to hearing something like the LL or Electra though (the T2 I can forget it I guess)...


 
   
  There is at least one T2DIY in Japan and plenty of SRM-T2's...


----------



## treebug

I have an SRS 3170 system (SRM 323s + SR 307) on it's way. Should I be swapping the headset for the SR 507?


----------



## singh

Am getting , a SRM-T1W. 
It has adjustable bais, but whats the range ? Does it go beyond 580v?
I also have the esp 950, thats why am asking.

Stereophile review of LNS and T1w says the range is "between 480 and 580" . Is it true?


----------



## kevin gilmore

no srm-t1w that i have ever seen has adjustable bias
  unless it has some kind of modification.
   
  What you could do (and this is a bad idea for all sorts of reasons)
  is to increase the offset voltage with respect to ground, which
  decreases the 580v bias.
   
  The reverse of what mikhail did to get the bias in the es1.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Pretty much where I'm trying to get to. So close to being there. I've got the rest of my system planned out after this and it's pretty much all from local guys, so I'm close to taking a big break from Head-fi and buying a crates worth of music every time I get the chance.
   
  Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> Seeing as lately I've been listening to nothing but classical, *I think it's about time to get the Stax and get away from this site for a while*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## singh

kevin gilmore said:


> no srm-t1w that i have ever seen has adjustable bias
> unless it has some kind of modification.
> 
> What you could do (and this is a bad idea for all sorts of reasons)
> ...



Quote from stereophile LNS&T1 review



> To the right of the output selector is a rotary input selector. The other front-panel difference between the T1S and the T1W is that the latter *has a bias control next to the two pro only connections. This allows you to adjust the bias of these outputs between 480 and 580V.* It comes set to 580V, and that's how I left it for my listening.




am i missing something? ( cause am new to the electrostat world)


----------



## spritzer

There is indeed a small trimpot on the front panel which allows you to adjust the extreme right socket.  It never goes above 580V though.


----------



## singh

^ thanks for the info.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> If I could manage to snag one with an SRD-7 around $300-320, would that be a decent value? I'm really trying to pinch my pennies here so a brand new Stax is not really an option. However, I also want to get a product that can outperform (at least in some ways) my current headphones. After going the dynamic and ortho route, I get the feeling that stats are the right technology for me.


 
   
  $300-320 with an SRD-7 would be worth it if it's in working order. It might be more expensive than they used to go for on average, but even at that price, they'll still punch well above their price point.
   
  Just remember that those SRD-series transformer boxes need speaker-level input (maybe barring odd models like the SRD-P), so if you don't have a speaker amp of some sort like an integrated receiver handy, that's extra money you have to spend. (Fortunately, speaker amps are much more common and affordable than dedicated Stax amps.)


----------



## jaycalgary

Your going to be waiting a good while to find them at that price. What can you even find new at that price that will sound half as good?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is indeed a small trimpot on the front panel which allows you to adjust the extreme right socket.  It never goes above 580V though.


 
   
  doesn't show on the schematic.
   
  what else is new.


----------



## spritzer

My favorite bit was when they swapped the labels for offset and balance on the SRM-1 Mk2 pcb's just out of spite.


----------



## juantendo8

Would any on you know what the main difference between an SRD-6SB and an SRD-7SB is? I could save myself a bit of money if I decided to just go with the 6SB.


----------



## spritzer

Smaller transformers on the SRD-6 and only one output.  Same bias supply or very similar (depends on the actual version)


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Smaller transformers on the SRD-6 and only one output.  Same bias supply or very similar (depends on the actual version)


 
   
  Does this correlate to degraded performance or just less gain on the amp? The one output should be fine as I never see myself using more than one 'stat at a time. Sorry if I sound ignorant, just being careful with my money here.


----------



## MacedonianHero

So my ETA for my SR009/SR727II is early next week. Looks like my new Stax rig will be shipping out later this week. Really looking forward to giving them a run and hoping that they can get over the hump my previous e-stat experiences couldn't. 
   
  Based on the comments I'm hearing, I'm fairly confident they will.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Jack probably doesn't even have mine yet. ):
   
  Whatever. Alex said I can borrow his 009s 'til mine get here. 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> So my ETA for my SR009/SR727II is early next week. Looks like my new Stax rig will be shipping out later this week. Really looking forward to giving them a run and hoping that they can get over the hump my previous e-stat experiences couldn't.
> 
> Based on the comments I'm hearing, I'm fairly confident they will.


----------



## AnakChan

macedonianhero said:


> So my ETA for my SR009/SR727II is early next week. Looks like my new Stax rig will be shipping out later this week. Really looking forward to giving them a run and hoping that they can get over the hump my previous e-stat experiences couldn't.
> 
> Based on the comments I'm hearing, I'm fairly confident they will.


MH,outta curiosity, what source are you planning to use with it?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> MH,outta curiosity, what source are you planning to use with it?


 
  In terms of source? (See my sig).


----------



## AnakChan

macedonianhero said:


> In terms of source? (See my sig).



Actually, I sorta saw that before, bug noticed that you had listed components "not yet received", & I'd be surprised if you used the HeadAmp Pico DAC to drive the Stax. I'd guess the W4S (ES9018) then.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Actually, I sorta saw that before, bug noticed that you had listed components "not yet received", & I'd be surprised if you used the HeadAmp Pico DAC to drive the Stax. I'd guess the W4S (ES9018) then.


 
   
  That would be one versatile portable amp if the Pico could drive stats. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So it will be mostly CDs on my Cambridge Audio CD player - W4S DAC-2 (ES9018) - SR727II - SR009s.


----------



## AnakChan

macedonianhero said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, believe it or not occasionally I do use my iBasso DX100 to drive my SRM-727A and it's not too bad actually!!

Anyhow, the reason I asked is that there's another thread where a chap is using an Accuphase setup & finds the 727/009 Stax setup too bright for his tastes.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Well, believe it or not occasionally I do use my iBasso DX100 to drive my SRM-727A and it's not too bad actually!!
> Anyhow, the reason I asked is that there's another thread where a chap is using an Accuphase setup & finds the 727/009 Stax setup too bright for his tastes.


 
   
  We shall see early next week how they sound....but I'm hoping arnaud is closer to correct:
   
   


arnaud said:


> Humm, so maybe we are not as few as it seems using the 009 with a stax amp. That makes that many deaf users among the stax mafia, eh . I am still looking forward to hearing something like the LL or Electra though (the T2 I can forget it I guess)...


----------



## Bolardito

I swear the first thing I would do if I win the lotto is place an order for the SR009 with overnight shipping from Japan and paying full import duties....one could just dream..meanwhile I'll have to live with my Yulpng D18 DAC - Mjolnir - balanced HD800


----------



## MorbidToaster

It's like a third world country over there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





bolardito said:


> I swear the first thing I would do if I win the lotto is place an order for the SR009 with overnight shipping from Japan and paying full import duties....one could just dream..meanwhile I'll have to live with my *Yulong D18 DAC - Mjolnir - balanced HD800*


----------



## Chodi

I realize this thread has morphed into mostly talk about the 007 and 009 over the past several hundred pages, but I am contemplating buying the 407 or 507 with either the 323S or the 006t and I could really use some guidance. There are scant few posts about these headsets or amps as the conversation always moves toward the top end. I found only two brief posts on the forum where someone with real experience has compared the 407 to the 507. Seems in the few posts I have found people usually go for used gear instead of the 323S or the 006T. I have nothing against used gear but even used 007 plus an amp are over my budget. Sooo....if there is anyone here in the Stax Temple who could advise a Stax newbie who does not like donating large sums of money to a lost cause, please share your advice. I just cannot manage the over $3k setups and I do not have a speaker amp to go with a cheap adapter. There are so few posts on this forum about the 407 I get the feeling Stax could have skipped that model. The easiest thing for me would be to buy the 4170 combo with the 407 and the 006T but I have a T1 setup now and I am concerned that I would be buying a lower end system then the one I currently have. I do plan on keeping the T1 with my tube amp as my base system as it serves me well and sound real good. I listen mostly to classical, jazz and vocals. Any advise would be welcome. If you are wondering why I don't just audition this stuff please note where I live. Not easy to pop over to the local Stax dealer from here without turning it into a major expedition. Listening in the dealer environment here is mostly useless anyway. I would like to keep  this experience under $2500.


----------



## NamelessPFG

I can't advise you on the SR-407 or SR-507 specifically since I've only used the "lower-end" models (more specifically, an SR-Lambda with rebuilt drivers, an SR-202, and a SR-303 whose right driver split apart and doesn't sound right when glued back together).
   
  However, I can say that the various Lambda models in general do sound very good from what I've experienced, skewing toward a bright signature. They don't all sound alike, though; I definitely noticed a more prominent midrange on the SR-Lambda vs. the SR-202, without the latter's raspy texture (made even more prominent when EQing the midrange up). Much better for vocals, and most of the music I listen to is vocal. Too bad the original Normal bias SR-Lambda has been out of production for a couple of decades...
   
  In other news, my usual eBay heads-up: SR-Lambda + SRD-7/SB for...$355 + 14 shipping, with over 5 days left?
   
  Ouch, my wallet. (Well, it shouldn't be hurting since there's no way I can hope to afford that, but the mere thought stings.) How much higher will the bidding get?
   
SR-Sigma Pro with box, $900 starting bid, $1,000 Buy-It-Now, free shipping
   
  If you've got the dosh, this might be your chance to get a Sigma.


----------



## milosz

My Lambda Pro Signatures have what I would call a treble emphasis, but it is not at all like the lifted highs from my Sennheiser HD-800's.  I can listen to the Stax pretty loud, whereas if I listen to the HD-800's at the same SPL  it hurts my ears, because of the increased treble output from the HD-800's.  So, the Lambda's- 'voiced' to favor the highs, but not an _exaggerated_ treble.  People have talked of the Stax high frequencies sounding "etched" and I understand what they mean although I would say that "etched" is perhaps just a little too strong a word.  It's part of their "flavor" and I don't consider it to be so prominent as to be considered truly a flaw. The 'etch' is there, but I find I can just relax and listen past it, in a manner of speaking. If it were truly "nasty treble peakiness" I don't think I would like them, but the treble-forward sound is not so jarring as all that.
   
   
  I really like my Lambdas on the SRM-T1.  They are keepers.  I also have 007's, and at one time I had "plain" Lambda Pros (as opposed to my Lambda Pro Signature.)  I sold the "plain" Lambdas, they sounded very similar to the Signatures, with the Signatures sounding a little bit more detailed.   Since they sounded so similar, I kept the ones that I liked just slightly better and sold the others.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> I can't advise you on the SR-407 or SR-507 specifically since I've only used the "lower-end" models (more specifically, an SR-Lambda with rebuilt drivers, an SR-202, and a SR-303 whose right driver split apart and doesn't sound right when glued back together).
> 
> However, I can say that the various Lambda models in general do sound very good from what I've experienced, skewing toward a bright signature. They don't all sound alike, though; I definitely noticed a more prominent midrange on the SR-Lambda vs. the SR-202, without the latter's raspy texture (made even more prominent when EQing the midrange up). Much better for vocals, and most of the music I listen to is vocal. Too bad the original Normal bias SR-Lambda has been out of production for a couple of decades...
> 
> ...


 
  I'm going to assume there was some humor in your post since the models and condition of the Ebay jewels you posted are antiques. I don't doubt that they would be good for someone but I am not that adventurous. I will only buy used if I can find something recent and in near new condition or I will just buy new. I have a $2500 budget so I don't want to feel like I am sneaking through the back door to get a look at ten year old equipment. I would even consider a 3-4 year old system if I felt I was stepping up for my investment. I want to experience the Stax magic without the pain of reconditioning old gear. If $2500 won't get me into the Stax Temple I will just curl up with my T1's.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I'm going to assume there was some humor in your post since the models and condition of the Ebay jewels you posted are antiques. I don't doubt that they would be good for someone but I am not that adventurous. I will only buy used if I can find something recent and in near new condition or I will just buy new. I have a $2500 budget so I don't want to feel like I am sneaking through the back door to get a look at ten year old equipment. I would even consider a 3-4 year old system if I felt I was stepping up for my investment. I want to experience the Stax magic without the pain of reconditioning old gear. If $2500 won't get me into the Stax Temple I will just curl up with my T1's.


 
   
  Try get a 507 & SRM600limited, it's the best combo at this price range($2500)
  they sound sweet, musical & neutral,
   
  If you can DIY, you may get a used T1/T1S/006t,then do some recap, replace the aged electrolytic capacitors.
   
  The 80's old lambda series are great too,there are some magic in their sound,which does not exist in today's expensive cans


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Try get a 507 & SRM600limited, it's the best combo at this price range($2500)
> they sound sweet, musical & neutral,
> 
> If you can DIY, you may get a used T1/T1S/006t,then do some recap, replace the aged electrolytic capacitors.
> ...


 
  Thanks for the suggestion. There is a doctor in Bangkok who has exactly that setup for sale. I saw it on one of the Thai bulletin boards today. I jumped on the phone when I saw it but he explained he already had two appointments to show it. He would call me if they don't buy. Fingers crossed but I am sure they will buy. Used Stax here is very rare especially in good condition. With the import duty and VAT everything sells for more here than in America. Would cost me right around $3000 to buy that new from the Bangkok dealer. The doctor is selling his 1 year old for $2000. I just wasn't fast enough.


----------



## Julez

@Chodi:
  I have had a testsession on some Stax and Audeze gear last week at a Hifi Store in Germany.
  I own the 303 classic headphones with the SRM-323II. I have had a few hours with the 507,
  007 and 009. Here's what I think:
  009: What can I say. I was disappointed with the sound signature. Extremely foreward and very agressive.
  Perhaps good for Classical music. It has a fanstastic heavy and dry bass but the mids and highs were too
  agressive for me. Especially with louder volumes and modern music (Hiphop, Electro, etc.). And I was missing the "magic".
  007: More fascinating in my opinion. A bit rolled off in the highs it's more dark and veild but never disturbing in the highs and mids.
  I will have to take a closer look at them and test them for a longer period.
  507: I could not hear a big difference to my 303 (for the price of 1000 Euro against 300 for the 303). So
  i was not thinking for one second to change to 507. They are in my opinion very uncomfortable compared to my 303.
  I will stay with my 303. Perhaps a Sigma Pro could be interessting for me because of the positioning of the drivers with 
  it's different soundstage.
  With your budget I would recommend to take one of the Lambda models. In my opinion it's rather a matter of personal
  favour wich of the Lambdas you are prefering.
  All impressions of the headphones where made with the new SRM-323S (apart from my own set).
  Perhaps the best way for you to get a Stax is to buy in Japan with import taxes.
  I hope I could help you a little bit!


----------



## anetode

Welcome to head-fi, Jules, I think you'll find the 007 club very comfy around here.


----------



## Chodi

Thank you Julez for your great comments. I would just like to note that while you were testing the SR 507 and others did you happen to listen to the SR 407? I swear, you can search the net for comments about the SR 407 and turn up nothing. I think I saw one brief comment here on Head-Fi about the 407? Maybe that is why Stax is offering the 407 in the 4170 package to unload units they can't sell for lack of interest?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> So my ETA for my SR009/SR727II is early next week. Looks like my new Stax rig will be shipping out later this week. Really looking forward to giving them a run and hoping that they can get over the hump my previous e-stat experiences couldn't.
> 
> Based on the comments I'm hearing, I'm fairly confident they will.


 
  Peter, I hope you have dust covers for your other equipment since they will not have much headtime after the Stax combo arrive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
  I am speaking by expereince..... I still love my WA5-LE and Dark Star but the Stax rig attracks me like a magnet. It just sounds naturally perfect to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  Let us know you impressions after you play with it for a few hours.....


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> Does this correlate to degraded performance or just less gain on the amp? The one output should be fine as I never see myself using more than one 'stat at a time. Sorry if I sound ignorant, just being careful with my money here.


 
   
  The gain is the same but a smaller core means it can't handle as much power and thus rolls off faster.  Not a big deal really.


----------



## SHAHZADA123

I'd like to buy this but have no clue as to the sound signature.
   
   
 STAX SR LAMBDA + SRD-7/SB SEMI PANORAMIC SOUND ELECTROSTATIC EARSPEAKER SET   
  Any advice would be appreciated 
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## NamelessPFG

You mean this one?
   
  It has the best midrange I've ever heard, like vocals suddenly had a veil lifted from them, yet it doesn't have a raspy texture to it like the SR-202 did when raising the mids on an EQ to bring them more in line with the original SR-Lambda.
   
  spritzer even considers it to have the best midrange out of the entire Lambda lineup, which is saying something given the numerous successors it has spawned. I don't have nearly that much experience with the Stax lineup, though.
   
  Treble and bass extension are good, though later models are said to improve in those departments as well as detail retrieval...at the cost of "musicality", whatever that may mean. This doesn't make the SR-Lambda bad at bass and treble by any means; when you're comparing Stax to Stax, it's more of a matter of "amazing vs. outstanding" and/or what sound signature you prefer. In this case, it's clearly midrange-emphasized, and I happen to like that as someone who listens to a lot of vocal tracks.


----------



## SHAHZADA123

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> You mean this one?
> 
> It has the best midrange I've ever heard, like vocals suddenly had a veil lifted from them, yet it doesn't have a raspy texture to it like the SR-202 did when raising the mids on an EQ to bring them more in line with the original SR-Lambda.
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks!
  I'm putting in my bid


----------



## singh

That one is in great condition.
Its 350 with 5 days left in the auction . it will go beyond 500. 

You can also consider this . The same thing, just not as in as good condition.


----------



## juantendo8

I actually left a pm to him last night for that very same headphone. I hope to make it my first electrostat.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Thank you Julez for your great comments. I would just like to note that while you were testing the SR 507 and others did you happen to listen to the SR 407? I swear, you can search the net for comments about the SR 407 and turn up nothing. I think I saw one brief comment here on Head-Fi about the 407? Maybe that is why Stax is offering the 407 in the 4170 package to unload units they can't sell for lack of interest?


 
   
   
  Let me distil you what I've been reading around here in the past years.
 Without ever hearing any of the mentioned equipment, I can tell you this is what an intensive search and much reading would most probably yield:

 As far as I know, there is nothing that suggests that the 407 and 507 have different drivers. The difference is in the headband, pads and cable. The pads are supposed to make a slight difference, but you can always put the 507 leather pads on a 407. The headband and cable should not influence the sound. One major advantage of the 507 is that it's black instead of ****ty brown, and that you buy the feeling that you have the top model of the current lambda's, but that's about it.

 Furthermore, the Stax site mentions this: "_(...) and now the SR-307 and SR-407 have adopted the same sounding body (sound element) as that of the top model SR-507._" However, the 307 does not have the same specs as the 407 and 507, which do have the same specs. Thus, it is likely that the 307 does in fact have different drivers from the 407 and 507.

 Conclusion: the 407 should be the best buy of the current lambda's.

 Speaking of amps, the SRM-323S is Stax Mafia approved and gets a lot of positive feedback around here. It's also cheaper than a SRM-006TS or a SRM-600 Limited.

 So, 407 + 323S should be a superb entrance into the Stax world and fits your budget.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Let me distil you what I've been reading around here in the past years.
> Without ever hearing any of the mentioned equipment, I can tell you this is what an intensive search and much reading would most probably yield:
> 
> As far as I know, there is nothing that suggests that the 407 and 507 have different drivers. The difference is in the headband, pads and cable. The pads are supposed to make a slight difference, but you can always put the 507 leather pads on a 407. The headband and cable should not influence the sound. One major advantage of the 507 is that it's black instead of ****ty brown, and that you buy the feeling that you have the top model of the current lambda's, but that's about it.
> ...


 
  Thank you for that information. It seems those few on the forum who have bought the 507 just went for the "Top of the Line" instead of being concerned about savings. I am going to suffer the 6 hour round trip drive to Bangkok probably next week and audition the difference at the dealer. They won't allow me to bring my own music so it is much more difficult than it should be. Further they have no 006t for demo only new in the box for sale. This is like buying cars in Thailand there are no "test drives" here at your local dealer. You have to buy on spec. I am really a tube guy when it comes to amps but I will give the 323S a serious listen. If I ever buy one of these setups I guess I could do the first review of them on Head-fi. When you consider that the 507 cost is about the same as some of the highly regarded dynamics and more than the highly regarded HE500  and it has no serious review anywhere (no love at all). Even on Amazon not one user review! Clearly Stax is having a problem generating excitement with the middle of their line. Hard for a company to make a living selling only $5000 headphone systems.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Peter, I hope you have dust covers for your other equipment since they will not have much headtime after the Stax combo arrive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  LoL...thanks for helping me while I sit an wait for news that they've been shipped out.


----------



## Draygonn

macedonianhero said:


> LoL...thanks for helping me while I sit an wait for news that they've been shipped out.


_Eagerly awaiting new toy syndrome _

I am eagerly awaiting impressions


----------



## Dyaems

sorry if this is off topic but any other new info about that new stax portable? =)


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





julez said:


> @Chodi:
> I have had a testsession on some Stax and Audeze gear last week at a Hifi Store in Germany.
> I own the 303 classic headphones with the SRM-323II. I have had a few hours with the 507,
> 007 and 009. Here's what I think:
> ...


 
   
  That's exactly the biggest reason you were hearing what you heard.  I very much dislike that amp and anyone saying it sounds like any other ToTL Stax amp hasn't heard them side by side.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Parts came today for the srm1/mk2 recap. Time to plan the strategy. Possibly work on it tomorrow. Very excited. Man, the new caps are tiny in comparison.


----------



## Julez

Thanks for welcoming me!
  @chodi:
  I didn't hear the 407. There were too much headphones to test in one day and I was about to hear the big models.
  With your budget it sounds like you have to stick to the lambdas if you want to by new.
   
  @Anaxilus:
  Perhaps you are right with the amps, although I belive the biggest difference is between the headphones.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Parts came today for the srm1/mk2 recap. Time to plan the strategy. Possibly work on it tomorrow. Very excited. Man, the new caps are tiny in comparison.


 
   
  Tech sure has advanced in the last 30 years.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> 1. a close up of the heatsinks.  can you tell if they have the unavailable parts?


 
  Hey Spritzer, or anyone,
   
  can you tell by this pic if I have those unattainable parts by the heatsinks?  I dont want to go poking around in there and screw them up accidentally.  I dont see anything out of the ordinary, but I also dont know what I'm looking for.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Tech sure has advanced in the last 30 years.


 
  tasteful sarcasm noted.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Grrr.  Tested all my caps today, and it looks like I got a bad one.  the 470uf 50v wont even give me a reading on the MM.  OL every time.  triple checked my settings.   all the other caps tested fine.  Diodes tested about 5V.  Was hoping to get this done today.  maybe I can start with what I've got tonight.
   
  Question about the Diode installation.
   
  I can match the -/+ with the diodes with the stripe on one end.  but which end is negative on these?  The RA-1 diodes?  the tapered, or square end?  If its on the board, I cant see it with the diodes in


----------



## Anaxilus

Quote: 





julez said:


> @Anaxilus:
> Perhaps you are right with the amps, although I belive the biggest difference is between the headphones.


 
   
  I agree, listening fatigue can make it very difficult to discern audible discrepancies. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  But seriously, there are all sorts of reasons people hear or don't hear things.  It's certainly not a one way street.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Question about the Diode installation.
> 
> I can match the -/+ with the diodes with the stripe on one end.  but which end is negative on these?  The RA-1 diodes?  the tapered, or square end?  If its on the board, I cant see it with the diodes in


 
   
  Does your meter have a diode test function?
  That will indicate the polarity of the part under test. Most also have an audible beep tone to verify polarity.
  Recommend you google "testing diodes with multimeter".
   
  Heck, a regular multimeter set on resistance (ohms symbol) will show conductance as a resistance, and blocked current flow as infinite resistance (OL).
  When the diode is conducting, the black test probe is contacting the negative side (-) of the diode.
  Disconnect one side of the diode before testing to ensure an accurate reading. (unsolder and lift one lead terminal off of the pcb)


----------



## Shep

And this is where I have a problem that perhaps others have overcome.  So for my first post, why do Stax have dealers in Asia that stock the SR-009 but won't allow anyone to listen?  Does this happen elsewhere in the world?  5 grand is lot of money to drop on a pair of headphones under any circumstances, but to do it blind is plain silly.  There are 2 Stax dealers here in Taiwan and neither of them will open a SR-009 box, lest the product be impossible to sell as 'new'.  I wouldn't buy an expensive car without driving it, so why does Stax expect me purchase unheard?  I can understand the dealer's problem, caused by Stax not allowing even their official dealer a pair for demo.
   
  I have discovered that my humble SR-202/SRM-252S Basic Stax that came bundled with my Smyth Realiser are better on some music than my HD-800's.  Thats not news to anyone on this thread but it makes me, with my 60 year old ears, wonder how much better the SR009 are with the right amp.  Bright isn't an issue for me but detail, dynamics, resolution, air, separation are.  I use cross-feed and Redline Monitor or the Realiser to image.  Because I run the Sanders 10c electrostatic speakers with his Magtec and DEQX (I had Quads for decades), electrostatics are natural for me.  I've contacted Justin about a BHSE but it's going to be an expensive paperweight with some headphones.  My local headphone shop (not a Stax dealer) advises not to buy Stax because no-one really knows how the Chinese deal is going to work out.  The dealer situation is similar in Hong Kong.
   
  There are no headphones meets here as far as I can ascertain so, what do I do?  What have others done?  Fly to Tokyo? Any constructive advice is appreciated.
   
  Thanks


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





shep said:


> And this is where I have a problem that perhaps others have overcome.  So for my first post, why do Stax have dealers in Asia that stock the SR-009 but won't allow anyone to listen?  Does this happen elsewhere in the world?  5 grand is lot of money to drop on a pair of headphones under any circumstances, but to do it blind is plain silly.  There are 2 Stax dealers here in Taiwan and neither of them will open a SR-009 box, lest the product be impossible to sell as 'new'.  I wouldn't buy an expensive car without driving it, so why does Stax expect me purchase unheard?  I can understand the dealer's problem, caused by Stax not allowing even their official dealer a pair for demo.
> 
> I have discovered that my humble SR-202/SRM-252S Basic Stax that came bundled with my Smyth Realiser are better on some music than my HD-800's.  Thats not news to anyone on this thread but it makes me, with my 60 year old ears, wonder how much better the SR009 are with the right amp.  Bright isn't an issue for me but detail, dynamics, resolution, air, separation are.  I use cross-feed and Redline Monitor or the Realiser to image.  Because I run the Sanders 10c electrostatic speakers with his Magtec and DEQX (I had Quads for decades), electrostatics are natural for me.  I've contacted Justin about a BHSE but it's going to be an expensive paperweight with some headphones.  My local headphone shop (not a Stax dealer) advises not to buy Stax because no-one really knows how the Chinese deal is going to work out.  The dealer situation is similar in Hong Kong.
> 
> ...


 
  If you read my earlier posts you will see that I am dealing with much the same problem. We have one Stax dealer in Bangkok. I am a former customer for other gear so when I made an appointment to make the two hour drive to go there tomorrow, I insisted that they let me audition the headphones with my own music. They were horrified at the prospect that a customer actually wanted to hear something before buying. I specifically asked if they had all the models I wanted to hear (407,507,007). They assured me that they did but they were all boxed and I could not listen. I got to the owner of the shop and he finally agreed. The problem is they do not want to invest in demos that they would have to sell later used. They do have some demos but not everything I wanted to hear. Same problem with the Stax amps. They said they had one solid state and one tube amp for demo (neither are the tube amp that comes with the set). I am going there tomorrow and I will report back on my findings. I may buy a Stax system or I may get pissed off at them and not buy anything. Their attitude is that you should buy on reputation alone. I don't think I am being unreasonable to want to hear a system before I plunk down $3000 or more. We shall see tomorrow.


----------



## Julez

@Shep:
  Here in Germany nobody would be that stupid. If you got no demophones and amps people buy their stuff at the next dealer with demo equipment.
  It's just that easy here. There are enough dealers with Stax equipment around here, although our offical Staxdealer is beeing replaced soon and
  has practically no headphones at the moment to deliver to hifidealers (no 009, 007, etc).


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





julez said:


> @Shep:
> Here in Germany nobody would be that stupid. If you got no demophones and amps people buy their stuff at the next dealer with demo equipment.
> It's just that easy here. There are enough dealers with Stax equipment around here, although our offical Staxdealer is beeing replaced soon and
> has practically no headphones at the moment to deliver to hifidealers (no 009, 007, etc).


 
  Alright, to be fair, the Stax dealer here does have some demos but not all demos of current stock. Bangkok is a city with a lot of very wealthy audiophiles who do buy products on spec. I am an American who has lived here for twenty years and it still takes some getting used to the local customs. The Stax dealer here has survived many years with the same method of doing business so he does not feel pressure to change. In this market there is only the one dealer no others and no gray market except what you can ship in by yourself (also without an audition). The lack of competition gives the Stax dealer a license to do whatever he wants.


----------



## arnaud

Depending on the markup from the distributor and reseller, you might not even take too much of a hit by flying over and staying overnight in a cheap "salary man" hotel! In Tokyo, you can listen to the whole stax range pretty much anywhere, even the large general electric stores. If you come in Otcober, you could attend one of the biggest headphone audio events in the world (Fujiya Avic headphone festival) and get a taste of most headphone on the market!

I'd say, come over!


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Depending on the markup from the distributor and reseller, you might not even take too much of a hit by flying over and staying overnight in a cheap "salary man" hotel! In Tokyo, you can listen to the whole stax range pretty much anywhere, even the large general electric stores. If you come in Otcober, you could attend one of the biggest headphone audio events in the world (Fujiya Avic headphone festival) and get a taste of most headphone on the market!
> I'd say, come over!


 
  I got a laugh out of your comments because it would cost me nearly the price of a Stax amp to make the trip to Tokyo from here. I have been there several times on business and that place is crazy expensive. I have an appointment at the Bangkok dealer tomorrow and we will see how that goes. I am intent on not buying anything unless it is clearly interesting enough to tear me away from my T1's. I am not into buying something that will sit in the closet. I am not trying to replace the T1's only get something that will share my head time and give me a welcome change of pace. I spend a lot of time with my music and it would be nice to have something equally as good as the T1's but different to share my time.


----------



## Shep

@Chodi
   
  Good luck tomorrow.  Let us know how you get on.  The situation here is limited dealers, limited stock, no demos of anything North of 404. Our situation looks similar in that affluent locals will buy out-of-the box, unheard.  The more expensive the better, like the table French wine they drink at 200 bucks a bottle
   
  Taiwan Stax dealers simply will NOT open the box for demo.  I am 70% certain I would love the Stax high end sound BUT I am fast going off Stax because their market model is based in the the 1970's.  I too, would love to have a different flavor to dynamic 'phones, but it looks increasingly as though I will spend my Stax budget on a mega amp for the HD800.  I can hear the potential in the SR-202 but SR-009 plus amp is close to $8000 (unheard) here.  
   
  Tokyo is 3hrs something from here so it's possible but if I compare the hassle compared with US-made speakers: Lifetime guarantee/1-2 months trials/shipping both ways, anywhere, well.....
   
  @Arnaud
   
  Any inside details on this event and the best shops?  With wifey in tow, we can hack the (written) language.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Grrr.  Tested all my caps today, and it looks like I got a bad one.  the 470uf 50v wont even give me a reading on the MM.  OL every time.  triple checked my settings.   all the other caps tested fine.  Diodes tested about 5V.  Was hoping to get this done today.  maybe I can start with what I've got tonight.
> 
> Question about the Diode installation.
> 
> I can match the -/+ with the diodes with the stripe on one end.  but which end is negative on these?  The RA-1 diodes?  the tapered, or square end?  If its on the board, I cant see it with the diodes in


 
   
  I believe the curved part is the cathode but far older Stax amps than that have it properly marked on the PCB.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





shep said:


> @Chodi
> 
> Good luck tomorrow.  Let us know how you get on.  The situation here is limited dealers, limited stock, no demos of anything North of 404. Our situation looks similar in that affluent locals will buy out-of-the box, unheard.  The more expensive the better, like the table French wine they drink at 200 bucks a bottle
> 
> ...


 
   
  The event is Fujiya's Headphone Autumn Audio Festival around the weekend of 27th October. This year I believe they're having it over 2 days instead of 1. Shops like Yodobashi in Akihabara has the SR-009 literally just displayed there for your use (and abuse - the last time I was there, the leather headband was almost torn off). But that place is somewhat noisy for open headphone testing. You may wanna try Dynamic Audio in Akihabara too, somewhat less noisy.
   
  Fujiya themselves don't seem to have SR-009s in stock, but if you're lucky they may have 2nd hand ones for sale. If they do, you can listen to them.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





shep said:


> And this is where I have a problem that perhaps others have overcome.  So for my first post, why do Stax have dealers in Asia that stock the SR-009 but won't allow anyone to listen?  Does this happen elsewhere in the world?  5 grand is lot of money to drop on a pair of headphones under any circumstances, but to do it blind is plain silly.  There are 2 Stax dealers here in Taiwan and neither of them will open a SR-009 box, lest the product be impossible to sell as 'new'.  I wouldn't buy an expensive car without driving it, so why does Stax expect me purchase unheard?  I can understand the dealer's problem, caused by Stax not allowing even their official dealer a pair for demo.
> 
> I have discovered that my humble SR-202/SRM-252S Basic Stax that came bundled with my Smyth Realiser are better on some music than my HD-800's.  Thats not news to anyone on this thread but it makes me, with my 60 year old ears, wonder how much better the SR009 are with the right amp.  Bright isn't an issue for me but detail, dynamics, resolution, air, separation are.  I use cross-feed and Redline Monitor or the Realiser to image.  Because I run the Sanders 10c electrostatic speakers with his Magtec and DEQX (I had Quads for decades), electrostatics are natural for me.  I've contacted Justin about a BHSE but it's going to be an expensive paperweight with some headphones.  My local headphone shop (not a Stax dealer) advises not to buy Stax because no-one really knows how the Chinese deal is going to work out.  The dealer situation is similar in Hong Kong.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Which Quads did you have and how would you compare the Sanders to them?


----------



## rgs9200m

I bet most Stax 009 owners bought them unheard.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I bet most Stax 009 owners bought them unheard.


 
  Not me. I heard them twice and I confirmed I had to have them


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Not me. I heard them twice and I confirmed I had to have them


 
  Yeah, awesome phones, never to be sold while I can still hear.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

alright, moving right along here with the srm1/mk2 recap.  all caps have been removed, and all diodes have been installed.  Cap installation tomorrow when Im more awake.
   
  Question about the 470uf 50v Cap.  I tested the old cap after I pulled it.  and I didnt get a reading at all on that one either.  This leads me to believe that I must be testing this value cap wrong.  When I test the other caps, old or new, I get a reading.  Not so with the old, or the new 470uf 50v cap.  Did I miss a chapter somewhere?


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





shep said:


> And this is where I have a problem that perhaps others have overcome.  So for my first post, why do Stax have dealers in Asia that stock the SR-009 but won't allow anyone to listen?  Does this happen elsewhere in the world?  5 grand is lot of money to drop on a pair of headphones under any circumstances, but to do it blind is plain silly.  There are 2 Stax dealers here in Taiwan and neither of them will open a SR-009 box, lest the product be impossible to sell as 'new'.  I wouldn't buy an expensive car without driving it, so why does Stax expect me purchase unheard?  I can understand the dealer's problem, caused by Stax not allowing even their official dealer a pair for demo.
> 
> I have discovered that my humble SR-202/SRM-252S Basic Stax that came bundled with my Smyth Realiser are better on some music than my HD-800's.  Thats not news to anyone on this thread but it makes me, with my 60 year old ears, wonder how much better the SR009 are with the right amp.  Bright isn't an issue for me but detail, dynamics, resolution, air, separation are.  I use cross-feed and Redline Monitor or the Realiser to image.  Because I run the Sanders 10c electrostatic speakers with his Magtec and DEQX (I had Quads for decades), electrostatics are natural for me.  I've contacted Justin about a BHSE but it's going to be an expensive paperweight with some headphones.  My local headphone shop (not a Stax dealer) advises not to buy Stax because no-one really knows how the Chinese deal is going to work out.  The dealer situation is similar in Hong Kong.
> 
> ...


 
  Fly to Bangkok.


----------



## Chodi

I made my round trip to the Bangkok dealer today and as soon as I recover I will write it up here as I think some who are not able to buy the 009 will be interested in my comments. I did come back with some shiny new Stax equipment. Details to follow.


----------



## chinsettawong

chodi said:


> I did come back with some shiny new Stax equipment. Details to follow.




That's not a surprise at all. 

Wachara C.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> alright, moving right along here with the srm1/mk2 recap.  all caps have been removed, and all diodes have been installed.  Cap installation tomorrow when Im more awake.
> 
> Question about the 470uf 50v Cap.  I tested the old cap after I pulled it.  and I didnt get a reading at all on that one either.  This leads me to believe that I must be testing this value cap wrong.  When I test the other caps, old or new, I get a reading.  Not so with the old, or the new 470uf 50v cap.  Did I miss a chapter somewhere?


 
   
  The caps are identical in terms of technology but is there a range setting on the meter or is the cap just too big?


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





julez said:


> @Shep:
> Here in Germany nobody would be that stupid. If you got no demophones and amps people buy their stuff at the next dealer with demo equipment.
> It's just that easy here. There are enough dealers with Stax equipment around here, although our offical Staxdealer is beeing replaced soon and
> has practically no headphones at the moment to deliver to hifidealers (no 009, 007, etc).


 

 Does that mean zuehlke is out of the game?
   
  Regards Georg
   
  Please feel free to email me please)


----------



## Shep

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Which Quads did you have and how would you compare the Sanders to them?


 
  Oh, now. There's a long time & many countries between the Quad ESL57's and the 10c's.  Different sources (vinyl/LP12, Quad SS and tube gear then vs. MacMini/Weiss/DEQX/Magtech & Usher R1.5's now).  The 57's were rebuilt by Quad Huntingdon.  So, if it's possible to convey a sense of listening over such enormous changes, the 10c's are like 57's (and 63's heard, not owned) on steroids.  They do everything those early Quads do but much, much better. Nothing taken away but a whole lot added. Essentially, I'm hoping, I suppose ESL 57 = Stax 202 whilst 10c = SR-009.  First the Sanders have bass, the sound stage is sensational (don't believe the 'head in vice', there's a fix for that) they are fast, detailed, go loud and 100% reliable.  They are naturally revealing in the treble, some might say bright, but then I'm 60, right.  10c's have a lifetime guarantee and they work in the high humidity here, which many ESL's simply won't.  The stators are coated glass (I think), they just don't arc.  Sorry, I have no affiliation with Sanders but he's a 100% reliable guy, will replace anything and replies in detail to every email, by return. 
   
  I read recently something like "if your speakers present detail and dynamics like a decent pair of headphones, you are doing well".  I have the reverse, I haven't heard a headphone/amp that comes close to the 10c with active DSP.  I really, really want some.
   
  Now a question for you, I've read your stuff and I like it: In your judgement, are the SR-009 just that good, to an ESL person, that I could buy them unheard according to the equation above?  Let me qualify that by saying that if it didn't work out, I'd sell them and put it down to experience (oh, and wouldn't blame you).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The caps are identical in terms of technology but is there a range setting on the meter or is the cap just too big? I


 
  I use an amprobe MM.  I have it set to auto arrange, and it has settings for checking caps.    it just goes to overload each time.  what is odd, is that when I disconnect one of the probes from the cap, I get a brief reading.  I made a short video of the multimeter reading the cap.  I start with it connected to the + arm, and then I add the -..  You hear it overload.  I remove the negative leg, and I get the reading.    as far as I know, this MM should be fine for checking everything on this project.  Besides the fact that I want to have a good cap, I need to figure out how to do this.  it should be simple
   
  .


----------



## pspivak

Good evening.
   
  For what it is worth I hadn't listened to the Stax SR-404 signatures in quite a while.  I have been using my modded TF-10's (iem) mostly and have been very satisfied.  I plugged the Stax in last night and let them "charge" overnight.
   
  I was shocked how different the Stax sound compared to the iem's   I am going to have to listen for awhile to tell exactly where but gosh they sound great!  
   
  Absence truly does make the heart grow fonder!
   
  Peter


----------



## Chodi

As promised, what follows is a description of my Stax field trip complete with sonic impressions. The Bangkok Stax dealer sells an assortment of mid and high end headphones. They have a large and diverse inventory of non-Stax branded demos. In the Stax line-up they know their customer base well. The salesman said that more than half of their Stax sales were the 009. The rest of their sales were a mixture, but mostly the very low cost 2170 system which includes the SR 207 and an inexpensive driver unit. There is some logic to this because of the very large wealthy Thai class in Bangkok and the emerging middle class. The vast balance of the Thai population are not buying Stax headphones.
   
  The shop was small but nicely arranged and I was able to sit off to the side on a comfortable sofa and do my listening. They had two Stax amps for demo the 323S and the 007t. They did have the 407, 507 and the 007mk2 for me to audition. As things go in Bangkok it was a nice professional looking shop. The dac used for this was something by Calyx  (more on that in a moment). I brought many samples of my own music with me including classical, jazz and soft rock. I began the listening session with the 507 and the 323S.  I was not at all expecting what I heard. The sound was very bassy with an extremely warm mid-range. As it happened I began with Amy Winehouse Rehab and the low frequency was shaking my jaw. I am aware that some might really like that type of wild pounding but not me. I look for a balanced sound top to bottom and what I heard in that combo was anything but balanced. I will give credit to the 323S in that the bass went deep and had slam and control, just way too much for my taste and that bass crept into the mid-range creating an overly warm signature. I switched to the 407 on the same track and found it to be much the same with less slightly less sharp bass attack and less warm mids. After the first thirty minutes switching tracks and headphones I was not encouraged. I switched to a classical track with the 507 and things got overly warm again but pleasantly so (surprise warm from a solid state amp). The 407 on the same track felt more balanced and neutral from top to bottom. while I was thinking of giving up on the spot I said to the salesman that something just did not sound right. I asked if they had the Yulong D18 dac, the same as I have at home. He agreed to the change. 
   
  With the D18 in the mix things changed dramatically for the better. Since I was not there to buy a Calyx dac I was relieved at the change. now that the D18 was in the line up I could relax into the music and distinctly hear the differences. Since the listening was done over the course of many hours I will save you the details and jump to my impressions and the reasons for my purchase. After hours of sampling several tracks with all three headphones and the two amps on display, I was left with the fact that Stax does not have a "House Sound". Everything sounded different. This fact alone makes it extremely difficult to compare products or even rate them as they could be from different manufacturers. The biggest difference is in the amps. They are to my ear completely different. The 323S sounds nothing at all like 07t. Later when I insisted that they open a box and put out an 006t for me to listen the problem became worse as that amp sounded completely different then the others. I have no doubt after hearing them that the 323 was the most honest and neutral of the bunch. That became obvious over hours of testing with all three headphones. Using the 323S the 507 was at it's best, but I still felt an overabundance of bass and an overly warm mid-range. The headband on the 507 felt weird and pressed against my head in a not too comfortable way (but they were light as a feather). I should remind you here that the 007 was in the mix but I could only listen to it on the 07t as the salesman said that the 323 could not drive it. Comparing the 007 and 07t with the 507 and the 323S the 507 was the clear winner (I have no doubt the amp was a factor). The 007 shared that darkness with the 507 but with everything more refined but the darkness was too much for me. Frankly, had they been the same price I would still not have bought the 007 with the 07t even though the build quality was far superior. The 507 with the 323 was  more detailed with more natural mids and sparkle. The 007 was faster on transients. I might have bought the 507 and 323 but the salesman informed me that they had no 323 in stock. He said they rarely sell it. I was frankly disappointed and started to feel that I was not going to buy anything but then I asked him to unbox a 006t for me to hear.
   
  I took a fifteen minute break to give my ears a rest while they set up the 006t fresh out of the box. All the other components tested were demos with many hours on them. I began with the 507 and the 006t and found it to sound amazingly like a poor version of the 007 with the 07t. It was again overly warm and that warmth again overpowered the mids. This may not be fair as the amp was fresh out the the box with no burn in. I switched to the 407 and I immediately knew that things were starting to sound right. These two were made for each other. On the 006t the 407's took on a very balanced tone from top to bottom. While the 507 was an obvious mismatch, the 407 shined although it did not sound as quick on transients as the 507 and 323 combo. The 407 was a near perfect match with the 006t with a slightly tube warmth and just a bit soft in the very bottom compared to the 323. The dealer offered me a substantial discount on the 4170 system which includes the 407 and the 006t. A discount far beyond the separate price and lower than pricejapan for the 4170 combo. I have always been a tube guy and the sound of that liquid mid-range got me. I like this dealer.
   
  I have not talked about imaging or soundstage or even attempted to do any sort of a full review as that would make no sense from this short visit. I just wanted to relate my first impressions about Stax from someone who has been an audiophile for thirty years coming fresh into Stax. As someone who has just sold his HE500's due to comfort issues, I got the impression that the designers at Stax have spent a lot of time trying out the ortho's from Hifiman and Audeze. Perhaps the sudden success of those companies caused Stax to rethink their sonics (only a guess guys). 
   
  One final point, The salesman said that the mylar on the 507 and the 407 were different thickness which accounted in part for the difference in sound. I have no idea if he has a direct line to the designers at Stax. I can tell you that the 407 has a slightly higher sensitivity than the 507. They do sound similar in many ways but they are not the same and they pair differently with Stax amps. Perhaps the cable is the difference?


----------



## realmassy

Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the Stax world.

When I listened to the 507 for the first time with the 323S (both brand new) I shared your same exact experience: very bassy, dark sound.
In a few weeks the sound changed completely and the combo sounded nothing alike. The sound was so different I had to change the amp and look for something slightly richer like the 600ltd.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the Stax world.
> When I listened to the 507 for the first time with the 323S (both brand new) I shared your same exact experience: very bassy, dark sound.
> In a few weeks the sound changed completely and the combo sounded nothing alike. The sound was so different I had to change the amp and look for something slightly richer like the 600ltd.


 
  The 06t I listened to was right out of the box so I assumed it would change and open up after burn in (maybe 100 hours?). All the other equipment I heard had been on demo for months and was well burned in. I did notice that the demo of the 407 headband was comfortably loose. When I got home and took the new one out of the box the clamping force was much tighter. I am assuming it will loosen up in time. I hope so because it is pretty tight as is. Since the headband is plastic I don't think it is a good idea to try and bend it.


----------



## realmassy

I've got the 507 and they are now (1 year after) way more comfortable, that won't be a problem. But they won't get as comfortable as the 009 though 
As for the amp, there shouldn't be many differences between my 600 and your 006: from people I know having owned both the 600 should be less euphonic, but I never listened to the 006 in my setup. One potential advantage (not for me) of the 006 over the 600 is the tube rolling, you'll be able to tailor the sound according to your preferences. 

In any case, I'm sure you'll like your setup and you'll enjoy your music for a long time!
I thought about upgrading the 507s a few times, I've listened to the 009s in my setup and they are amazing but I know I'll end up upgrading the rest of the rig...spending too much time on swapping things rather than listening to music


----------



## Chodi

I asked the dealer about the 600ltd as I figured he might have one but he said it was discontinued and I could not even order it. I have no idea how well informed he really was on this. I would be very interested in tube rolling but i am afraid their is scant information from owners. I think I saw one post about that and I will go find if when I get ready to buy some decent tubes. I wonder if I have to re-bias the amp when I change tubes?


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, it's best to rebias the amp when you change the tubes.
   
  Instructions can be found in this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1
  The SRM-T1 is very similar to the 006T, so the same instructions apply.
  You need a multimeter to measure and a small slotted screwdriver to turn the pots inside the amp.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I use an amprobe MM.  I have it set to auto arrange, and it has settings for checking caps.    it just goes to overload each time.  what is odd, is that when I disconnect one of the probes from the cap, I get a brief reading.  I made a short video of the multimeter reading the cap.  I start with it connected to the + arm, and then I add the -..  You hear it overload.  I remove the negative leg, and I get the reading.    as far as I know, this MM should be fine for checking everything on this project.  Besides the fact that I want to have a good cap, I need to figure out how to do this.  it should be simple
> 
> .


 
   
  That's the meter acting up.  If the cap was fubar then it would probably just read as a short so go ahead and install it.  Given that both the new and old cap for that position trip up the meter then it has to be at fault here.


----------



## forbigger

@chodi - welcome to the club. however, allow me to point out your following statement "......I got the impression that the designers at Stax have spent a lot of time trying out the ortho's from Hifiman and Audeze. Perhaps the sudden success of those companies caused Stax to rethink their sonics (only a guess guys)." I believe the 407/507 came out before Audeze or Hifiman line were launched.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> @chodi - welcome to the club. however, allow me to point out your following statement "......I got the impression that the designers at Stax have spent a lot of time trying out the ortho's from Hifiman and Audeze. Perhaps the sudden success of those companies caused Stax to rethink their sonics (only a guess guys)." I believe the 407/507 came out before Audeze or Hifiman line were launched.


 
  you may be right about that I was not sure on the timeline. One thing is certain, there is more than a passing resemblance between the sound of the newest Lamdas and those orthos. You still get the speed of the es drivers so I am not implying a direct copy, only that their seems to be some of that ortho tonal signature in these new models. Just my impression.


----------



## Julez

@schorsch:
  That's what I got told from the dealer I was listening the Stax phones.
  There will be a new distributor soon for Germany. He also said that
  he suspects that Zuehlke is solely selling to direct buyers. So in fact doesn't
  do the distribution for Germany anymore.
  I think you don't have to be afraid to loose your guarantee as the new
  distributor should have to service that stuff as well.
   
  Greets


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





shep said:


> Oh, now. There's a long time & many countries between the Quad ESL57's and the 10c's.  Different sources (vinyl/LP12, Quad SS and tube gear then vs. MacMini/Weiss/DEQX/Magtech & Usher R1.5's now).  The 57's were rebuilt by Quad Huntingdon.  So, if it's possible to convey a sense of listening over such enormous changes, the 10c's are like 57's (and 63's heard, not owned) on steroids.  They do everything those early Quads do but much, much better. Nothing taken away but a whole lot added. Essentially, I'm hoping, I suppose ESL 57 = Stax 202 whilst 10c = SR-009.  First the Sanders have bass, the sound stage is sensational (don't believe the 'head in vice', there's a fix for that) they are fast, detailed, go loud and 100% reliable.  They are naturally revealing in the treble, some might say bright, but then I'm 60, right.  10c's have a lifetime guarantee and they work in the high humidity here, which many ESL's simply won't.  The stators are coated glass (I think), they just don't arc.  Sorry, I have no affiliation with Sanders but he's a 100% reliable guy, will replace anything and replies in detail to every email, by return.
> 
> I read recently something like "if your speakers present detail and dynamics like a decent pair of headphones, you are doing well".  I have the reverse, I haven't heard a headphone/amp that comes close to the 10c with active DSP.  I really, really want some.
> 
> Now a question for you, I've read your stuff and I like it: In your judgement, are the SR-009 just that good, to an ESL person, that I could buy them unheard according to the equation above?  Let me qualify that by saying that if it didn't work out, I'd sell them and put it down to experience (oh, and wouldn't blame you).


 
   
  Man, I really need to listen to those speakers.  Thanks for the info.  
   
  If you're an ESL guy I'm pretty confident you'll absolutely love the SR-009s.  They're the best headphone ever after the HE90 IMO.  The detail retrieval is unparalleled.  They're extremely fast and the imaging is very precise (like the SR007).  They have a large soundstage for headphones, but don't expect them to sound like speakers in that regard.  The one area I'd bet they outperform your speakers in is bass reproduction.  The speakers naturally use a woofer with crossover (transmission line design IIRC) which won't have the speed of an ESL diaphragm like that in the SR009.  Since the headphone drivers have such close proximity to the ear and the cavity between the ear and driver are sealed well by the leather earpads, you can get the resolution and cleanliness of ESL bass down past the audible spectrum.  
   
  Have you considered buying a used set?  The SR009 is still quite new and I'd imagine most owners would take care of their sets, so pairs on the used market should be in near mint condition.  You would only lose (roughly) the cost of shipping if you decided to sell them.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I was a little frustrated I paid full price and then 2 sets popped up on the used market, but at least I have a warranty I suppose.
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Man, I really need to listen to those speakers.  Thanks for the info.
> 
> If you're an ESL guy I'm pretty confident you'll absolutely love the SR-009s.  They're the best headphone ever after the HE90 IMO.  The detail retrieval is unparalleled.  They're extremely fast and the imaging is very precise (like the SR007).  They have a large soundstage for headphones, but don't expect them to sound like speakers in that regard.  The one area I'd bet they outperform your speakers in is bass reproduction.  The speakers naturally use a woofer with crossover (transmission line design IIRC) which won't have the speed of an ESL diaphragm like that in the SR009.  Since the headphone drivers have such close proximity to the ear and the cavity between the ear and driver are sealed well by the leather earpads, you can get the resolution and cleanliness of ESL bass down past the audible spectrum.
> 
> Have you considered buying a used set?  The SR009 is still quite new and I'd imagine most owners would take care of their sets, so pairs on the used market should be in near mint condition.  You would only lose (roughly) the cost of shipping if you decided to sell them.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's the meter acting up.  If the cap was fubar then it would probably just read as a short so go ahead and install it.  Given that both the new and old cap for that position trip up the meter then it has to be at fault here.


 
  There must be something about that value of cap.  all my other caps tested fine.  even all the old ones from the amp.  I feel a little bad.  Mouser is sending me a new cap.  if that once acts the same, I'll just instal one of them.  better to be safe for me.
   
  when I took out the old tapered diodes, they said 5 something on the underside.  interesting.  my new diodes all test at like 4 something.  OK then.  one more cap to instal, then set offset and balance, and I'm set.  looking forward to it.


----------



## Chodi

I have experienced a bit of bad luck. Six hours into the burn in, just playing music through the system while the headphones were sitting on my desk the system died. Suddenly no sound from either driver only static. I shut down the system and disconnected the hp's. I shorted the pins with my finger to discharge the hp's. A few minutes later I reconnected everything and it played music but the left channel was down maybe 10-12db. I used the balance on the volume knob to get it balanced but it required too much movement and the left channel was distorting. I shut it down and came back to it hours later. This time it seemed ok but soon the volume in both channels was reduced and the channel imbalance returned. If I tapped on the left ear speaker I could hear it momentarily get loud for an instant then die. I boxed up the system and I will return it to the dealer today. A very long drive for me to resolve this. I do not have another Stax system to determine if it is the hp's or the amp at fault. I believe this is referred to as infant mortality.


----------



## pspivak

Man, that is very frustrating. 
   
  It didn't get wet or damp did it by any chance?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

that sucks dude.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





pspivak said:


> Man, that is very frustrating.
> 
> It didn't get wet or damp did it by any chance?


 
  No, I can't see any way that it got wet or damp other than some perspiration from my ears under the seal . I am in an air-conditioned room and it was sitting on my desk since it was first set up. I did listen to it for a bit perhaps 30 minutes when it was first turned on. I did notice at that time that the left ear speaker seemed down 3-4db, but I just turned the balance on the amp to compensate. At that time on first start the volume knob only needed to be at about 10-11 o'clock to listen. Hours later while it was playing music just sitting on my desk it stopped playing and all I could hear was static in both channels. I turned it off and came back to it later and I had to put the volume at 2-3o'clock to hear reasonable volume and the left channel was down perhaps 10db and it was distorting. Very frustrating.


----------



## arnaud

Congrats chodi, you've successfully achieved the burn it all in!

Maybe the experts from the mafia can help you with the diagnosis.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Congrats chodi, you've successfully achieved the burn it all in!
> Maybe the experts from the mafia can help you with the diagnosis.


 
  Funny, I would say the burn in on this set is complete.


----------



## jaycalgary

I have a pair of Sr-x pro's. I think I am have problems with the left driver. Something seems to be going on inside at times. I have heard what sounds the the "fart" sound but not from putting them on. It can be a sound  like a decompression. It sounded like I lost some sound from the left driver and when I unplugged the headphones and relieved the static I could hear a decompressing fart type sound from the driver. \it does sound normal a lot though. I have not had them on long at the time. Is that driver damaged or maybe I need to let them charge for a good while? Thanks


----------



## Shep

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Man, I really need to listen to those speakers.  Thanks for the info.
> 
> If you're an ESL guy I'm pretty confident you'll absolutely love the SR-009s.  They're the best headphone ever after the HE90 IMO.  The detail retrieval is unparalleled.  They're extremely fast and the imaging is very precise (like the SR007).  They have a large soundstage for headphones, but don't expect them to sound like speakers in that regard.  The one area I'd bet they outperform your speakers in is bass reproduction.  The speakers naturally use a woofer with crossover (transmission line design IIRC) which won't have the speed of an ESL diaphragm like that in the SR009.  Since the headphone drivers have such close proximity to the ear and the cavity between the ear and driver are sealed well by the leather earpads, you can get the resolution and cleanliness of ESL bass down past the audible spectrum.
> 
> Have you considered buying a used set?  The SR009 is still quite new and I'd imagine most owners would take care of their sets, so pairs on the used market should be in near mint condition.  You would only lose (roughly) the cost of shipping if you decided to sell them.


 
  Thanks, I really appreciate that advice.  It looks as though I'll swallow my pride and Stax antiquated marketing and just get a pair of SR-009.  Bass, yes.  Specifically against the 10c, it's extension and control at the lower extreme that is the biggest sonic difference.  Roger Sanders has done an admirable job in making the transmission line blend to the 10c panel although if have one criticism, the physical construction of the TL is on the light side.  That said, you are on your own with crossovers, EQ and DSP because the 10c doesn't even ship with a crossover.  Personally, I wouldn't consider the 10c without (a) the Magtec amp driving the panel and (b) XO/EQ/DSP in the shape of a DEQX or TACT or Trinnov to get the crossover and room EQ exactly right, the optional DCX2496 isn't quite good enough IMHO.  I won't clutter this thread but if you do go down this route, I will happily relate everything I learned in 2 years of 10c ownership.  That Sanders will ship you his stuff anywhere in the world on 30 days approval AND stand the shipping both ways if you don't like them, was what finally sold him to me.  Compare & contrast buying SR-009......  No more whingeing, I promise.


----------



## treebug

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> I've got the 507 and they are now (1 year after) way more comfortable, that won't be a problem. But they won't get as comfortable as the 009 though
> As for the amp, there shouldn't be many differences between my 600 and your 006: from people I know having owned both the 600 should be less euphonic, but I never listened to the 006 in my setup. One potential advantage (not for me) of the 006 over the 600 is the tube rolling, you'll be able to tailor the sound according to your preferences.
> In any case, I'm sure you'll like your setup and you'll enjoy your music for a long time!
> I thought about upgrading the 507s a few times, I've listened to the 009s in my setup and they are amazing but I know I'll end up upgrading the rest of the rig...spending too much time on swapping things rather than listening to music


 
   
   
  Quote: 





realmassy said:


> I've got the 507 and they are now (1 year after) way more comfortable, that won't be a problem. But they won't get as comfortable as the 009 though
> As for the amp, there shouldn't be many differences between my 600 and your 006: from people I know having owned both the 600 should be less euphonic, but I never listened to the 006 in my setup. One potential advantage (not for me) of the 006 over the 600 is the tube rolling, you'll be able to tailor the sound according to your preferences.
> In any case, I'm sure you'll like your setup and you'll enjoy your music for a long time!
> I thought about upgrading the 507s a few times, I've listened to the 009s in my setup and they are amazing but I know I'll end up upgrading the rest of the rig...spending too much time on swapping things rather than listening to music


 
   So the 600 is your preference for the 507's? I just worry about the reliance on the one type of tube for this amp. Is it future proof is what I mean.


----------



## Julez

@Chodi:
  thats very anoying.
  When I bought my 303 i had to send it back two times because of faulty drivers.
  It took about half a year till I got a functioning 303. German service is famous for
  being very fast!


----------



## Chodi

Returned from my second trip in three days to Bangkok just now. The dealer listened to my headphones for one minute and said defective. I knew that also. He replaced them with a new set and an apology. I have them on now and they are working perfectly. The first set never really worked properly out of the box. He replaced them with a smile and said this is unusual. I can't complain it was good service. Now begins the burn in.


----------



## irkaal97

hi, anyone knows whether stax sr207/307/407/507+ srm-252s or audez'e LCD-2 without amp is better?


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Funny, I would say the burn in on this set is complete.


 
   
  Too bad the 009 wasn't there for you.  Also nice to hear some love for the 323S.  Drives my interest for a 507/323S rig again


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





solude said:


> Too bad the 009 wasn't there for you.  Also nice to hear some love for the 323S.  Drives my interest for a 507/323S rig again


 
  The 009 was there but I did not listen to it because there was no way I was going to begin my Stax journey at the end. If I heard it I ran the risk of buying it and then plead temporary insanity to the wife. If they actually had the 323S I probably would have bought it with the 507 (it really sounded better that the 007). I am going to live with the set I bought for some weeks before I even think about the next step up the ladder (perhaps it will be days instead of weeks I have been a hopeless audiophile for too long). I would really like to find out what amp works well with the 007 cause what I heard with the 07t was not to my taste. I am done upgrading dynamic headphones and I've settled with my T1's for that. Now we will see how much I am willing to part with to get further down the road with Stax.


----------



## Solude

Odd they wouldn't sell you the demo.


----------



## georgep

Wondering if any can enlighten me a bit on this. I obtained a "partial" 007 MK1 in a trade and just wanted to know what might be needed to get it up and running. The obvious things are it is missing the springs and the earpads, the screws for the headband, and the cable. Also, looking through the large holes in the black metal plate on the inner side of the drivers, the mylar appears damaged on at least one of the drivers. Assuming the drivers themselves are fine, would the mylar be something that Yamas or some other outfit could repair (as well as the cable, obviously)? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Hoping to put together a secondary pair of 007 MK1 - but depending on the effort may just unload the drivers/frame/headband assemby in the classifieds.


----------



## spritzer

That was clearly some bias issue with those busted phones.  Hard to tell what exactly though. 
  Quote: 





georgep said:


> Wondering if any can enlighten me a bit on this. I obtained a "partial" 007 MK1 in a trade and just wanted to know what might be needed to get it up and running. The obvious things are it is missing the springs and the earpads, the screws for the headband, and the cable. Also, looking through the large holes in the black metal plate on the inner side of the drivers, the mylar appears damaged on at least one of the drivers. Assuming the drivers themselves are fine, would the mylar be something that Yamas or some other outfit could repair (as well as the cable, obviously)? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Hoping to put together a secondary pair of 007 MK1 - but depending on the effort may just unload the drivers/frame/headband assemby in the classifieds.


 
   
  If the mylar has any holes in it then the drivers are toast.  They will pop and crackle like mad and be utterly unusable.  Yama's will not repair this but gladly sell you a new set for 2k$+ or something sky high as that.


----------



## georgep

Interesting, so the mylar is not a separate layer that can be replaced in the event they get broken - and that mylar is extremely (and I mean extremely) thin.
   
  And I guess I can understand Yama's being more interested in selling a new set. But are they the only game in town when it comes to restoring these to their past glory?


----------



## grokit

Stax noob here with probably a silly question. I have been following along on and off, and have been wondering about letting a Stax headphone "charge" for a while/overnight(?) before use. Does this apply to all Stax, or only certain models. Also is this extended charging to be done after an extended period of non-use? I'm a bit confused about this matter, and most things Stax in general. I have a Lambda Pro incoming though, excited to hear them with new ear pads and a WEE at some point.
   
_edit: _Google was helpful, along with Ken Rockwell:
   
_"The static charge, a.k.a. polarizing voltage, is supposed to take a few minutes to spread around the headphone's diaphragm. If the charge was free to move at will, it would move under the forces that are supposed to move the diaphragm when subjected to voltage fields from the plates. If the charge was free to move (not static), electrostatic headphones and speakers wouldn't work._
   
_Therefore, it takes time for the static charge to spread across the entire diaphragm._
   
_As the charge spreads, it is normal for the audio to increase in level for the first few minutes after you've plugged the adapter into the wall. It's also normal for each channel to come up at slightly different rates, meaning it is expected that for the first few moments the channels often seem unbalanced._
   
_Personally, I leave this thing plugged in and energized all the time, so my headphones are always ready to go. It's hard to measure, but electrostatic systems love to be left alone — that's why they're called static, and not dynamic. Some people say, and I wouldn't disagree with them, that electrostatic systems sound best if they're left plugged in for at least a day."_
   
  Just in case anybody else cares.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





solude said:


> Odd they wouldn't sell you the demo.


 
  The demo had a busted power switch. I offered to buy the demo and he explained he could not sell it because of the broken switch. Made me wonder why the authorized dealer didn't just replace the broken switch? Not exactly a major repair.


----------



## rgs9200m

The 009 just reaches deep into the sounds of each component of the music like no other phone to my ears, and I've had a lot of them (including a few R10s).
  Just deal with the brightness via the upstream chain and you'll never let them go.


----------



## pkshan

Before break-in the 507 sound like a Ultrasone
  after break-in the 507 sound like a upgrade version of hd800


----------



## ericfarrell85

Can anyone comment on an 323s vs 717 for an 007mk1? Besides a few positive comments on the 323s, there are relatively few informative reviews of this amp that I've been able to find. One of these will have to serve temporarily until funds allow for a big boy amp.


----------



## spekkio

I have been using the SRM-323S with my 007 mk1s for some time now. They are ~okay. I noticed a peak at 10k which is pretty bad with some songs (source is ODAC, may account for this), but generally everything feels all right - bass is there, enough slam, not that much rumble, mids are ok, highs are present. It is not what I would call something that would blow you away though, there is a sense of 'unremarkable-ness' about the combo. Perhaps there is not enough bite at the 7k point due to the headphones. I haven't heard anything above the 323S with the 007 mk1 so I don't know how different a 717 / KGSSHV will sound.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





ericfarrell85 said:


> Can anyone comment on an 323s vs 717 for an 007mk1? Besides a few positive comments on the 323s, there are relatively few informative reviews of this amp that I've been able to find. One of these will have to serve temporarily until funds allow for a big boy amp.


 
  I wanted to try that combo when I was at the dealer but the salesman said don't bother it won't sound good the 323S doesn't have enough power for the 007. At least that is what he said so I never tried it.


----------



## Julez

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I wanted to try that combo when I was at the dealer but the salesman said don't bother it won't sound good the 323S doesn't have enough power for the 007. At least that is what he said so I never tried it.


 
   


 I talked to the German distributor and another German dealer with many experience in Stax gear. Both said that the 323 in any version is good enough for driving SR-Omega and 007 MK I+II.
  When I have a look at the specs of the driver units the 323II and S have the scond highest outputvoltage. Only the 727 has 50 Volt more outputvoltage. All tubeamps have less outputvoltage.
  So I belive this is just to sell bigger amps. If you want to look for yourself:
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Stax_products


----------



## Chodi

I am sure one of the Stax Mafia can jump in here but I think that it is not voltage alone but current delivery that might be the issue with the 323S.


----------



## livewire

Sure it will work.
  You will want to sell it a week later.
  Dont be deluding yourself.
  Buy the BHSE. You know that is the one you want!


----------



## Solude

This is the information I was given by the mafia when I asked...
   
_Solid state,the 323s.
 Tube,GES

 Unless you find a 007t and do the 6s4 conversion like Brigir
 Did.

 Or a 727 and then modify it

 That's it unfortunately_
   
  Question was in relation to options not including the $5K trio.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





georgep said:


> Interesting, so the mylar is not a separate layer that can be replaced in the event they get broken - and that mylar is extremely (and I mean extremely) thin.
> 
> And I guess I can understand Yama's being more interested in selling a new set. But are they the only game in town when it comes to restoring these to their past glory?


 
   
  The drivers are completely modular but they need to be assembled in a clean room if you want them to be noise free.  Given that the D/S spacing on that driver is 0.5mm then the particles that cause problems are tiny to say the least. 
   
  Yama's isn't even a service center to be honest.  With the headphones they just replace parts but on the amps they replace with what ever they find at the bottom of the parts drawer.  Horrible stuff...


----------



## georgep

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The drivers are completely modular but they need to be assembled in a clean room if you want them to be noise free.  Given that the D/S spacing on that driver is 0.5mm then the particles that cause problems are tiny to say the least.
> 
> Yama's isn't even a service center to be honest.  With the headphones they just replace parts but on the amps they replace with what ever they find at the bottom of the parts drawer.  Horrible stuff...


 
  Not very encouraging if you had to send them a Stax amp under warranty.
   
  I take there are no other North American options?


----------



## Magick Man

chodi said:


> I have experienced a bit of bad luck. Six hours into the burn in, just playing music through the system while the headphones were sitting on my desk the system died. Suddenly no sound from either driver only static. I shut down the system and disconnected the hp's. I shorted the pins with my finger to discharge the hp's. A few minutes later I reconnected everything and it played music but the left channel was down maybe 10-12db. I used the balance on the volume knob to get it balanced but it required too much movement and the left channel was distorting. I shut it down and came back to it hours later. This time it seemed ok but soon the volume in both channels was reduced and the channel imbalance returned. If I tapped on the left ear speaker I could hear it momentarily get loud for an instant then die. I boxed up the system and I will return it to the dealer today. A very long drive for me to resolve this. I do not have another Stax system to determine if it is the hp's or the amp at fault. I believe this is referred to as infant mortality.




I sympathize, the left channel on my GES is intermittent, not tube or cable related. I'm sending it back and trading up to the WES, though. So it's all good.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Unfortunately not. They're generally just terrible to deal with.
   
  Quote: 





georgep said:


> Not very encouraging if you had to send them a Stax amp under warranty.
> 
> *I take there are no other North American options?*


----------



## jaycalgary

One less SR-X pro in the world. There was about a 1 cm tear around the rim of the dust cover. I can only guess because of my inexperience but that must have been the reason for why the driver would at times lose some sound pressure then a crackling sucking in sound and then a pop and the driver seemed okay.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quick question if I may. I finished the recap of my srm1/mk2, fired it up, and nothing exploded. Off to a good start. When I attempted to adjust the pots for offset and balance, I could not get them to move. I mean physically. Is there some kind of locking on these, or are they probably just so old that they are stuck? I was just using a small screwdriver. They will not budge. 

Maybe a squirt of deoxit?

I wonder if someone glued them in place with how it's going.


----------



## spritzer

Just turn the amp off and move the pots with a bit of force.  Stax applied some contact adhesive to them back in the 80's but it is easily broken.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Just turn the amp off and move the pots with a bit of force.  Stax applied some contact adhesive to them back in the 80's but it is easily broken.


 
  cool, thats what I was hoping.


----------



## Chodi

I have a question for the resident Stax experts. Are the balanced inputs on the 006tII truly balanced or will it make no difference between using rca or xlr inputs on that amp. I have a balanced source and I am trying to figure out if it is worth buying a set of balanced xlr cables.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I have a question for the resident Stax experts. Are the balanced inputs on the 006tII truly balanced or will it make no difference between using rca or xlr inputs on that amp. I have a balanced source and I am trying to figure out if it is worth buying a set of balanced xlr cables.


 
  Sometimes balanced sounds better, sometimes not. Actually, on my 007t/ii amp, I find the RCA inputs are better (testing the same type of interconnects in RCA and XLR versions).
  This is with 009 phones, and the RCA inputs had a more mellow sound, and sound just right to me.
   
  I suggest you buy a pair of used XLRs on audiogon, try them out, and if you don't like it, just resell them for about what you paid for them. You really need to test it to find out, and it's worth the experiment.
  No one here can tell you what will happen.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Sometimes balanced sounds better, sometimes not. Actually, on my 007t/ii amp, I find the RCA inputs are better (testing the same type of interconnects in RCA and XLR versions).
> This is with 009 phones, and the RCA inputs had a more mellow sound, and sound just right to me.
> 
> I suggest you buy a pair of used XLRs on audiogon, try them out, and if you don't like it, just resell them for about what you paid for them. You really need to test it to find out, and it's worth the experiment.
> No one here can tell you what will happen.


 
  I was just wondering if you get the expected 6db gain with the balanced inputs on this amp?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

keithpgdrb said:


> cool, thats what I was hoping.




Sigh.. I'm sorry, more questions. I can not seem to get a decent offset reading. Balance seems to be ok. But offset number changes, depending on where the probe touches? Something isnt right. Both offset pots are dialed down as far as they go. I either get a reading about 14.3 volts, or a fluctuating number around 200mv. I assume the 14.3 number is probably the correct reading, but I'm hoping it's not, because I can't get it any lower (higher)

Readings are about the same on each side. 

Can anyone help me troubleshoot here?


----------



## singh

Whats the going price for a stax sigma pro ? ( ok condition , new pads , replaced cable )


----------



## PretentiousFood

Stax newbie here! I just picked up a Lambda Pro Signature with an SRD-7 pro-bias mod transformer box / energizer, and will have it next week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I searched through the thread but it's a bit of a monster at this point. I'm trying to figure out what amp I need to drive these.
   
  First, and probably dumbest question: can I drive the transformer box with the speaker taps of my Denon receiver? I know it will sound terrible compared to a proper amp, but I'll definitely want to give these a listen as soon as they get here!
   
  Otherwise I'm looking for the best bang-for-buck amp. I'm considering the Passlabs F5 (25W/channel class A) but that seems way overkill. I only need voltage swing, and not power, right? Why couldn't I use something op-amp based like the NwAvGuy O2 headphone amp modded for higher gain? Is there any default recommended pairing for the SRD-7 that I should consider?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I was just wondering if you get the expected 6db gain with the balanced inputs on this amp?


 
   
  You don't get 6db gain whengoing from sigle ended to balanced. The gain is 3db (in general not specific of this amp).


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Sigh.. I'm sorry, more questions. I can not seem to get a decent offset reading. Balance seems to be ok. But offset number changes, depending on where the probe touches? Something isnt right. Both offset pots are dialed down as far as they go. I either get a reading about 14.3 volts, or a fluctuating number around 200mv. I assume the 14.3 number is probably the correct reading, but I'm hoping it's not, because I can't get it any lower (higher)
> Readings are about the same on each side.
> Can anyone help me troubleshoot here?


 
   
  Have you tried to adjust the offset pot as if it was the balance and vice versa?  Somebody at Stax had this brilliant idea back in the day that it would be funny to do this on some of the PCB's.  Other way is to see what's connected to the pot as the balance pot is in the middle of two identical stages while the offset pot isn't.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Have you tried to adjust the offset pot as if it was the balance and vice versa?  Somebody at Stax had this brilliant idea back in the day that it would be funny to do this on some of the PCB's.  Other way is to see what's connected to the pot as the balance pot is in the middle of two identical stages while the offset pot isn't.


 
  I forgot about that.  I'll check that out.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





pretentiousfood said:


> Stax newbie here! I just picked up a Lambda Pro Signature with an SRD-7 pro-bias mod transformer box / energizer, and will have it next week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yep, any speaker amp will do.  Connection instructions are on the back of the transformer box.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I forgot about that.  I'll check that out.


 
  nope.  the offset isnt effected at all by moving the other pot.  Balance is dialed in, but offset, with the pot turned all the way down, wont go past about -14v on the left, and about -16v on the right.
   
  is there I test point I can check?
   
  bad resistor somewhere?
   
  oh, and also, that glue that bound the pots was pretty strong.  I cracked a couple plastic tops, and one piece even broke off.  not as easily broken as I would have hoped.  doesnt seem to effect the pots themselves though.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> nope.  the offset isnt effected at all by moving the other pot.  Balance is dialed in, but offset, with the pot turned all the way down, wont go past about -14v on the left, and about -16v on the right.
> 
> is there I test point I can check?
> 
> ...


 
  ok, wait.. I'm sorry, I lied a little.  I was able to set the offset to 0v using the balance pot, but then then the balance wont go below about 30v on each channel.  so something is off.  in fact, the readings hardly move at all when moving the offset pots to control the balance.


----------



## spritzer

Something is indeed off but I very much doubt the recent parts change had anything to do with it.  Most probable are carbon resistors drifting.  What we can do is increase the size of the pots a bit and see if that gives you some more range to work with.  The values are printed onto the side of the pots.  According to my schematic the balance should be 1k and the offset 200R.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

If changing the pots and leaving the resistors is the way to go, then thats what I'll do.  The great thing about this amp is its really easy to get to everything.
   
  am I going to have to worry about the resistors drifting a lot further over time?
   
  Here's a shot of the offset, and balance pots.  What should I replace them with?  again, it "seems" the balance pots are working correctly?  but should I just do the all?  I suppose if it isnt broke.. etc...


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I was just wondering if you get the expected 6db gain with the balanced inputs on this amp?


 
  Yes, I always get some more gain with XLRs, but the amount depends on the amp. The gain is not related to sound quality I find.


----------



## xzobinx

this question is probably discussed before but I couldn't find it. How well does stax lambda range especially the 407 respond to eq ? 
 I prefer the 1 phone solution so eq is the easiest way to archive it. I'm making decision between he-6 and a ges+ 407 combo.


----------



## pkshan

check the 33k plate resistors


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





xzobinx said:


> this question is probably discussed before but I couldn't find it. How well does stax lambda range especially the 407 respond to eq ?
> I prefer the 1 phone solution so eq is the easiest way to archive it. I'm making decision between he-6 and a ges+ 407 combo.


 
  I've had the 407 since Sunday. I have it paired with the 006t (came in the 4170 combo). I have little doubt that the ges from Woo would be better. I normally use eq when I play my T1's so naturally I tried it on the new 407. It responds exactly as you would expect it should but I found that on this combo no eq was really needed or desirable. My new Stax system has taken all four days and about 60 hours of burn in to reach much of the potential I think the system is capable of achieving. I can tell you that the 407 is one very remarkable headphone. Don't judge it out of the box as it takes some time to burn in and mine is probably not finished the burn in process yet. Even so, at this point the sound from the 407's does two things better than any headphone I own or that I have heard. They sound the same at any volume level which is entirely unique. No raising the level to catch the detail or get the correct tonality. Secondly, they are fast, very fast and kill even my T1's on transients and attack. There are other positives about the 407 but this is not an attempt at a review. They are extremely well balanced top to bottom so you may find like me that they do not need any eq. I would personally rate these one of the best values out there in headphones.


----------



## xzobinx

Thanks for the input. If I buy from local here the price of the two combo is similar and from my research the woo seems to be the preferable one so  I chose it. May be you're right every one just feels satisfy with the sound and have no use for eq. If I have chance to listen to stax all decision should be much easier. It's easy to audition dynamic here in Melbourne but estat is another matter.
  Quote: 





chodi said:


> I've had the 407 since Sunday. I have it paired with the 006t (came in the 4170 combo). I have little doubt that the ges from Woo would be better. I normally use eq when I play my T1's so naturally I tried it on the new 407. It responds exactly as you would expect it should but I found that on this combo no eq was really needed or desirable. My new Stax system has taken all four days and about 60 hours of burn in to reach much of the potential I think the system is capable of achieving. I can tell you that the 407 is one very remarkable headphone. Don't judge it out of the box as it takes some time to burn in and mine is probably not finished the burn in process yet. Even so, at this point the sound from the 407's does two things better than any headphone I own or that I have heard. They sound the same at any volume level which is entirely unique. No raising the level to catch the detail or get the correct tonality. Secondly, they are fast, very fast and kill even my T1's on transients and attack. There are other positives about the 407 but this is not an attempt at a review. They are extremely well balanced top to bottom so you may find like me that they do not need any eq. I would personally rate these one of the best values out there in headphones.


----------



## pkshan

After break-in, the 407/507 will have less attack, but more neutral.
  their response is ultra linear & precise
  the vintage lambda are musical,but not as precise as the 407/507.
   
  better find some amp than 006t IMHO, at least a srm600, or do some mod to the 006t.
  (007t is similar to 006t, just more power)
   
  when they are proper amped,you will get a more liquid & sweet sound


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> After break-in, the 407/507 will have less attack, but more neutral.
> their response is ultra linear & precise
> the vintage lambda are musical,but not as precise as the 407/507.
> 
> ...


 
  It is my intention to get a 323S as soon as I can and compare them. Then I will sell whichever one I don't want. The dealer here in Bangkok doesn't stock the 323S so I will have to get it elsewhere. If I see one come up used I will grab it. My voltage is 220v so I will wait for that.


----------



## PretentiousFood

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Yep, any speaker amp will do.  Connection instructions are on the back of the transformer box.


 
   
   
  Thanks! I hope the receiver isn't too terrible, now I'm excited!


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Something is indeed off but I very much doubt the recent parts change had anything to do with it.  Most probable are carbon resistors drifting.  What we can do is increase the size of the pots a bit and see if that gives you some more range to work with.  The values are printed onto the side of the pots.  According to my schematic the balance should be 1k and the offset 200R.


 
  I dont see 1k or 200R anywhere?  
   
  Offset - B50XΩ J  Board lists them as 50k
   
  Balance - B5KΩ M  Board lists at 5k
   
  I wonder if I could pick these up at a place like radio shack?  or are they just too cheap?  Would this work for the offset?  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062302&filterName=Type&filterValue=Trimmers
   
  again, I can instal it, but I'm not educated enough to pick the proper parts yet.
   
  should I just replace the offset pots?  or should I do both sets?


----------



## milosz

pretentiousfood said:


> Thanks! I hope the receiver isn't too terrible, now I'm excited!


 
   
  I tried an SRD-7 pro / SR-007 and Lambda Pro Signature 'phones on a number of different amplifiers- Monarchy zero-feedback class- A, class A hybrid MOSFET-EL34, 845 Single Ended Triode, H-K Citation II, First Watt F3 clone, as well as an NAD 7255 receiver and old Yamaha integrated amp.  The differences between these amps on the SRD-7 were not huge, except the F3 clone had a rolled off high end and with the 845 SET amp I heard some hum.  The Yamaha integrated amp (model A-700) had a little bit of a  harsh quality in the treble- some harshness but not overwhelmingly so.
   
  It seemed that the SRD-7 did not require very much power at all-  even the 15 watt F3 was capable of producing any volume I wanted.
   
  The better amps did sound a LITTLE better, but the old NAD and Yamaha were quite acceptable.  I think you'll find your receiver is just fine.
   
  I do have to say that the direct-drive Stax amps I used ( SRM-1 mk II and SRM-T1) do sound better, they offer more transparency and more refinement in the sound, but this was not to say that they were WAY better than the SRD-7.  They were better, yes, but not overwhelmingly so.


----------



## PretentiousFood

Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll report back once the Stax get here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  e: Good to know about the F3, I was considering building one but wasn't too sure what to expect from it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I dont see 1k or 200R anywhere?
> 
> Offset - B50XΩ J  Board lists them as 50k
> 
> ...


 
   
  It appears you have some person version of the SRM-1 Mk2.  There were a number of side steps as they evolved from the SRM-1 to the Mk2.  My first stop would be to replace all the pots but something identical would be a bad choice imho..  There are so much better pots out there now and something like 81-PV37W503C01B00 and 81-PV37W502C01B00 should fit.  Do check the datasheet though but I used the right angle version in my SRA-12S to replace the same style pots. 
   
  Next step is to measure all the resistors in circuit to get the basic idea if they are in spec or not.  Any conflicts between the channels means it's a good idea to take a closer look by lifting one end and testing it like that.


----------



## jaycalgary

He shoots he scores http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130770910153 .  I bet that's a bad combo and the  T1 will go a lot better with my Lambda Signatures. I thought they only sold the regular bias Sigmas with a stand.


----------



## irkaal97

Hi, anyone knows which is the best choice for pairing with the sr-252s, the stax sr-207, sr-307 or sr-407?


----------



## Julez

The SR-252s is selling as a set with the SR-207. You can use any Lambda phones with this amp. It depends on your budget and wich phones fit best to your taste.


----------



## georgep

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The drivers are completely modular but they need to be assembled in a clean room if you want them to be noise free.  Given that the D/S spacing on that driver is 0.5mm then the particles that cause problems are tiny to say the least.
> 
> Yama's isn't even a service center to be honest.  With the headphones they just replace parts but on the amps they replace with what ever they find at the bottom of the parts drawer.  Horrible stuff...


 
   
  Actually, on second look (and I am not familiar with Stax driver assembly and parts) it appears that there are two round gold coloured plates with many small holes throughout and there is a clear film going between them which appears fully intact. What I was initially calling the mylar might actually be just dust covers? They are very very fine and light and see through (not sure what they are made of). Assuming this is correct, is there an easy (and safe) way to energize the drivers to test them out? I do have an extra cable handy.


----------



## spritzer

I had no doubt that the main diaphragm was intact but the dust covers (made out of ultra thin PVC by the way) are essential to keep the drivers noise free.  At these small tolerances a tiny spec of dust will cause them to buzz and pop like mad which is quite annoying.  You can power them up though and connect to a Stax amp in the current state.  Of the 3 wires which go to each earpiece the center is the bias and it goes to the center terminal on the drivers while the one with the stripe is + and goes to the gold plate closest to the ear.  Be sure to cover the open surface of the driver with something solid before soldering as even a small drop of flux castoff will burn through the driver.  It's also advisable to keep soldering time as low as possible.  Anything over a second is a very bad idea.


----------



## georgep

Thanks, will give it a try one of these days.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It appears you have some person version of the SRM-1 Mk2.  There were a number of side steps as they evolved from the SRM-1 to the Mk2.  My first stop would be to replace all the pots but something identical would be a bad choice imho..  There are so much better pots out there now and something like 81-PV37W503C01B00 and 81-PV37W502C01B00 should fit.  Do check the datasheet though but I used the right angle version in my SRA-12S to replace the same style pots.
> 
> Next step is to measure all the resistors in circuit to get the basic idea if they are in spec or not.  Any conflicts between the channels means it's a good idea to take a closer look by lifting one end and testing it like that.


 
   Took a look at those pots, and the data sheets say they adjust from the top, so they should be great.  They are however the same value as the originals.  I thought you originally suggested an increase to give me more room to dial it in?  But if keeping the values consistent and checking the resistors is the better way, I'm on board.
   
  My unit is serial # A 4175.  I understand that the A units are the early ones.  I dont care of course, as performance is my main concern.   It does have two normal bias plugs, and if my cans die, I would probably try to alter the circuit to normal/pro.  I got this unit really cheap, so I've got some money to tune it up as best as it can get.  Here is a better pic of the circuit board overall.  maybe it will help as we continue.  I focused on the components, not the big caps or transformer.  Cant thank you enough for all your help thus far spritzer.


----------



## spritzer

Two normal bias outputs make a lot of sense as this would make it the earliest version of the Mk2 amp.  The basic building blocks are the same though as the later ones but they increased the bias on the outputstage and made some other changes. 
   
  Couple of things you could check for me to get a better picture of the circuit, what is written on the transistors.  The TO126 units (squares without heatsinks) are probably all 2SA1156's but I'm not sure what the TO92's are  (half circle ones) and the ones on the heatsinks.  101 and 102 are the input fets so probably J113 or something like that and the other 92's are probably D735 which would make them the bottom of the output stage. 
   
  Since the next pot values are +50% then it makes sense to tweak the resistor values instead.  Better yet would be to just replace all the resistors with modern metal films as the amp clearly works as it so the sand is all good.  This would make it essentially new and cost only a few $.  This is what I do with some of these older amps as carbon+moisture is a very bad mix in the long term.  If you can upload a higher resolution version of the same pic then I can pick out the resistor values for you.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> He shoots he scores http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130770910153 .  I bet that's a bad combo and the  T1 will go a lot better with my Lambda Signatures. I thought they only sold the regular bias Sigmas with a stand.


 
  The Sigma Pros came with a brown nextel spray on the stand, compared with the Sigmas, which had a grey Nextel spray.
  The Ear pads (including the mesh attached to the ear pads) are still available from, for example, Audiocubes, so a much more cosmetically acceptable effect should be doable. The Sigma series may be a bit underpowered by the SRM-T1, but they are great phones (and the Sigma Pro is very good too - IMHO, it bests the Sigma/404 in a couple of areas too).
  Nice price, presuming all is in excellent condition.


----------



## jaycalgary

Don't you use them with Lambda pads? This will be my 2nd pair of Sigma pros. I gave up on the first pair a bit quick and sold them. They are in Australia now. I am sure I will keep this pair and looks in better shape. I won't do the 404 mod I'd make a pair from scratch first. I am going to play them on the 717 for now till I get/build better. I have a diy kgsshv in the works but it will certainly be a while as my skill in that area is lacking. You sure have stood behind the Sigma's for a long long time now.


----------



## ivanrocks321

Wondering if anyone has tried using a mcintosh dac or source with a woo amp and a pair of STAX. I really like McIntosh sound and I have always wanted the WES and SR009 but never hear of anyone using Mc gear with the usual popular electrostat amps, was thinking of going this way once I settle to a bigger place and save enough for my dream speaker+ STAX rig.


----------



## rubenpp

Would a Stax Lambda Pro with an SRM-T1 MkII  amp be good buy at $500 ? Its supposed to be in good shape .


----------



## jaycalgary

No it will start an expensive addiction.


----------



## rubenpp

Oh I think I'm already there, maybe this is my way of being a bit more sensible ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  So I guess it isn't a good buy after all, I was planning to use it for the office   ..Thanks


----------



## jaycalgary

No it is a bit under priced. You have nothing to loose if everything works the way it should in my opinion. I would buy it.


----------



## rubenpp

Thanks jaycalgary


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Two normal bias outputs make a lot of sense as this would make it the earliest version of the Mk2 amp.  The basic building blocks are the same though as the later ones but they increased the bias on the outputstage and made some other changes.
> 
> Couple of things you could check for me to get a better picture of the circuit, what is written on the transistors.  The TO126 units (squares without heatsinks) are probably all 2SA1156's but I'm not sure what the TO92's are  (half circle ones) and the ones on the heatsinks.  101 and 102 are the input fets so probably J113 or something like that and the other 92's are probably D735 which would make them the bottom of the output stage.
> 
> Since the next pot values are +50% then it makes sense to tweak the resistor values instead.  Better yet would be to just replace all the resistors with modern metal films as the amp clearly works as it so the sand is all good.  This would make it essentially new and cost only a few $.  This is what I do with some of these older amps as carbon+moisture is a very bad mix in the long term.  If you can upload a higher resolution version of the same pic then I can pick out the resistor values for you.


 
   
  I've included higher res pics, I guess if you click on it, you will see the bigger version.  You can zoom in from there.
  I dont see anything that starts with a T on the board at all.  I am assuming the transistor parts start with a Q?  I'll give you what I think your asking for.
   
  Q209 = B715E  1G3
  Q106 = 6 C2611 1 M5
  Q111 = B832 OP
  Q102 = K117 GR2A
  There is also R001 which is hidden behind the 35v cap.  its green, and looks like it says 1.0KΩJ and a 5.  above that it has a triangle and 1W


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Would a Stax Lambda Pro with an SRM-T1 MkII amp be good buy at $500 ? Its supposed to be in good shape .


 
   
  Where the heck did you find that deal? I didn't see it on eBay, AudiogoN, or Head-Fi B/S/T.
   
  The SRM-T1 often sells for more than $500 by itself, let alone with a pair of headphones to go with it!


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Don't you use them with Lambda pads? This will be my 2nd pair of Sigma pros. I gave up on the first pair a bit quick and sold them. They are in Australia now. I am sure I will keep this pair and looks in better shape. I won't do the 404 mod I'd make a pair from scratch first. I am going to play them on the 717 for now till I get/build better. I have a diy kgsshv in the works but it will certainly be a while as my skill in that area is lacking. You sure have stood behind the Sigma's for a long long time now.


 
  I've got my 2 pairs with the original Sigma pads now on the advice of Birgir, but the Lambda pads also work well. I've got a spare set of the leather 507 pads here, so will try those on one set when the Sigma pads wear out. They will sound excellent on the SRM-717, or an old SRD-7 Pro with a beefy power amp driving them.
  My Sigma Pros were $700 about a year ago and in near perfect condition (apart from the perished ear pad netting, which was easily replaced).


----------



## Chodi

I have a question for the Stax insiders. Who actually manufactures the Stax equipment? It certainly can't be Stax as they only have 12 employees. They are, it would seem, a design and engineering firm that subs the manufacturing out. Yes, I realize this is just a guess on my part, but I don't see how 12 people could actually manufacture these products. I am curious as to who actually builds the Stax product?


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> The Sigma Pros came with a brown nextel spray on the stand, compared with the Sigmas, which had a grey Nextel spray.
> The Ear pads (including the mesh attached to the ear pads) are still available from, for example, Audiocubes, so a much more cosmetically acceptable effect should be doable. The Sigma series may be a bit underpowered by the SRM-T1, but they are great phones (and the Sigma Pro is very good too - IMHO, it bests the Sigma/404 in a couple of areas too).
> Nice price, presuming all is in excellent condition.


 

 Dear John,
  I had little listening time with my Sigmas in the last weeks. I tried to make my "new" Sr007 MK2 work with my amps.
  The 007 works now with stax talent DA into a pawel hp1 processor (mostly binaural mode) int o my SRM 1MK2PP. Quite a nice combination
  BUT yesterday I took on my Sigma and thought WOW There are some aspects which are better than this really high end setup.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

All the assembly is done in house but most of the parts are made by others to their specs.  SATO has been their supplier for a long, long time. 
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I've included higher res pics, I guess if you click on it, you will see the bigger version.  You can zoom in from there.
> I dont see anything that starts with a T on the board at all.  I am assuming the transistor parts start with a Q?  I'll give you what I think your asking for.
> 
> Q209 = B715E  1G3
> ...


 
   
  This amp is very old indeed but the basic layout is pretty much the same as the later ones.m  The 2SA1156 hadn't been released at that point so they used NPN's instead.  Here is the list:
   
  001  1K/1W
  002  180K  hard to tell from the pic though
  003  390K
  004  3M3
   
  101  910K
  102  3K
  103  27K
  104  270R
  105  22K
  106  220K  Looks like red-red-yellow but I can't be sure
  107  20K
  108  270K
  109  20K
  110  39K
  111  39K
  112  100K
  113  220K
  114  3K9
  115  39K
  116  220K
  117  220K
  118  1K8  if maroon - silver - red
  119  100R
  120  100R
  121  150K
  122  150K
  123  150K 
  124  150K
  125  27K/2W  594-5093NW27K00J
  126  27K/2W
  127  27K/2W
  128  27K/2W
   
  All the resistors are 1/2W except where noted.  I like the Vishay CCF for this stuff and they are easy to order.  Just search Mouser with this 71-ccf60 and pick the correct value or the one closest to it from the drop down list.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All the assembly is done in house but most of the parts are made by others to their specs.  SATO has been their supplier for a long, long time.


 
  So the same 12 people are taking the orders, designing product, doing shipping and receiving, doing repairs, assembling all the products in house and God knows what else? One can only pray that their new owner provides resources to take this operation out of the garage. The products are far too good to be subjected to this limitation.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All the assembly is done in house but most of the parts are made by others to their specs.  SATO has been their supplier for a long, long time.
> 
> This amp is very old indeed but the basic layout is pretty much the same as the later ones.m  The 2SA1156 hadn't been released at that point so they used NPN's instead.  Here is the list:
> 
> ...


 
  Cant thank you enough for that list spritzer.  few questions though...
  1.  when the item description says for example "1/2watt 390Kohms 1% Rated to 1watt" is it a 1/2 watt, or a 1 watt?  I was trying to find the first resistor 001, which needs to be 1W...​ 2.  What is 3M3​ 3.  why do some of the resistors end in "R"?  what am I looking for?​ 4.  What is a 3K9?  3.9KΩ?​ 5.  What is a 1K8?  1.8KΩ?​


----------



## Keithpgdrb

when ordering resistors, is it better to be slightly under, or over the value?


----------



## spritzer

Ahh my Euro teachings muddying the water.  R at the end means ohms so 290R is 290 ohm.  When there is a period we place the multiplier as the period so 3M3 is 3.3M and 2K9 is 2.9K. 
   
  Those resistors are 1/2W but they can be uprated by loosening the standards.  I wouldn't use them at 1W so just use something like this:  71-CPF21K0000FKE14
   
  Just pick the closest value, doesn't matter which way it is.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Ahh my Euro teachings muddying the water.  R at the end means ohms so 290R is 290 ohm.  When there is a period we place the multiplier as the period so 3M3 is 3.3M and 2K9 is 2.9K.
> 
> Those resistors are 1/2W but they can be uprated by loosening the standards.  I wouldn't use them at 1W so just use something like this:  71-CPF21K0000FKE14
> 
> Just pick the closest value, doesn't matter which way it is.


 
  I'm going to take a few minutes to digest what you said here.  I'm sorry, which resistor am I replacing with 71-CPF21K0000FKE14?  You lost me a bit with your last sentence about not using 1W resistors.
   
  I can understand that R means Ω.  so I'm good there.  and that a K means a period with a KΩ at the end.  I'll work on that first.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

so 3M3 is a 3.3 Ω resistor right?  Not a KΩ.  and not a Mega Ω.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

The parts in question.
   
  106?

  106 is red-red-yellow, which would be 224k correct?
   
  118?
   

   
  002?


----------



## spritzer

3M3 is 3.3Mega ohm.  If it were 3.3ohm then it would be written 3R3. 
   
  The part number is for the sole 1k/1W resistor.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> 3M3 is 3.3Mega ohm.  If it were 3.3ohm then it would be written 3R3.


 
  this part cool?
71-RNX0383M30FNLB


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Where the heck did you find that deal? I didn't see it on eBay, AudiogoN, or Head-Fi B/S/T.
> 
> The SRM-T1 often sells for more than $500 by itself, let alone with a pair of headphones to go with it!


 
   Saw it on CL . My bad its an SRM-1 Mk2 . the guy also has the Stax- ED-1 .


----------



## jaycalgary

How much is the ED-1? Are you going to get it?


----------



## arnaud

chodi said:


> So the same 12 people are taking the orders, designing product, doing shipping and receiving, doing repairs, assembling all the products in house and God knows what else? One can only pray that their new owner provides resources to take this operation out of the garage. The products are far too good to be subjected to this limitation.




Sometimes, small teams are much more effecient than larger corporations. As of now, there has been no complain of Stax lagging too much behind to fullfill the orders. The SR009 is built on demand (by batches though of course), and you don't have to wait 6 months upon placing the order. The sales volume of Stax is still very small I think and I don't see a reason why they should turn into a 200 head corporation with a heavier top and less funding available for R&D for example. 

For marketing, as you can see, Stax isn't spending huge amounts of money to make stupid videos illustrating the sound waves moving over the driver and this is almost always false information anyway. They make a brochure, give a couple of interviews and let the word of mouth propagate. I feel it is so refreshingly honest!

Sales network relies on distributors outside and sales agents in Japan. This is where Stax is hurting the most and some speculated that edifier could help with this. Doesn't seem to have moved much so far.

Only thing one might regret in the present state is that afaik there's a single engineer doing all the r&d. Stax develops pretty much only 1 product at a time so line refresh / new products don't turn out every 6 months. But I also appreciate this in some way. I don't want to see revisions of the 009 show up every xmas season that claim to destroy whatever product was sold before. Not that I don't appreciate innovation but simply that if you're refreshing a product every year, it probably means you should have avoided to release something half baked...

My 2cts anyway


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Saw it on CL . My bad its an SRM-1 Mk2 . the guy also has the Stax- ED-1 .


 
  Someone get this combination - it's very very good!


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Someone get this combination - it's very very good!


 
   
  Indeed !!!
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> How much is the ED-1? Are you going to get it?


 
   
  $450 , Yes I am


----------



## wuwhere

I bet Stax operation is similar to Koetsu cartridges.
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Sometimes, small teams are much more effecient than larger corporations. As of now, there has been no complain of Stax lagging too much behind to fullfill the orders. The SR009 is built on demand (by batches though of course), and you don't have to wait 6 months upon placing the order. The sales volume of Stax is still very small I think and I don't see a reason why they should turn into a 200 head corporation with a heavier top and less funding available for R&D for example.
> For marketing, as you can see, Stax isn't spending huge amounts of money to make stupid videos illustrating the sound waves moving over the driver and this is almost always false information anyway. They make a brochure, give a couple of interviews and let the word of mouth propagate. I feel it is so refreshingly honest!
> Sales network relies on distributors outside and sales agents in Japan. This is where Stax is hurting the most and some speculated that edifier could help with this. Doesn't seem to have moved much so far.
> Only thing one might regret in the present state is that afaik there's a single engineer doing all the r&d. Stax develops pretty much only 1 product at a time so line refresh / new products don't turn out every 6 months. But I also appreciate this in some way. I don't want to see revisions of the 009 show up every xmas season that claim to destroy whatever product was sold before. Not that I don't appreciate innovation but simply that if you're refreshing a product every year, it probably means you should have avoided to release something half baked...
> My 2cts anyway


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> I bet Stax operation is similar to Koetsu cartridges.


 
  I bet they are not designing and building their own amplifiers (maybe they do final assembly). Nothing wrong with that it kind of explains a lot of things including the very long cycle between model changes. Until I saw the details of their sale I had no idea they were such a tiny company. Incredible international brand identity for such a small enterprise.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I bet they are not designing and building their own amplifiers (maybe they do final assembly). Nothing wrong with that it kind of explains a lot of things including the very long cycle between model changes. Until I saw the details of their sale I had no idea they were such a tiny company. Incredible international brand identity for such a small enterprise.


 
   
  Koetsu only makes moving coil cartridges, some models are lot more expensive than the most expensive stat headphones.
   
  http://www.dagogo.com/View-Article.asp?hArticle=530


----------



## MorbidToaster

Wow. .2mv. That's crazy.
   
  Never thought I'd find something as simple as a cart sexy though. Wow.
   
  Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Koetsu only makes moving coil cartridges, some models are lot more expensive than the most expensive stat headphones.
> 
> http://www.dagogo.com/View-Article.asp?hArticle=530


----------



## MorbidToaster

009 related question. Has anyone found the best Pelican case for these yet? The fancy wood box isn't exactly the best for transport.
   
  Preferably water tight.


----------



## Radio_head

I believe AnakChan posted a picture of his travel (pelican?) case which fits both the 009 and the TH900.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I was actually the firs to comment on it. Derp. 
   
  I guess that's my bad memory biting me again. 
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> I believe AnakChan posted a picture of his travel (pelican?) case which fits both the 009 and the TH900.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> 009 related question. Has anyone found the best Pelican case for these yet? The fancy wood box isn't exactly the best for transport.
> 
> Preferably water tight.


 
  I just got the model 1400 with pick 'N' pluck foam and works perfect for them.


----------



## MorbidToaster

75 bucks is rough but when you put in perspective ($75 to protect a 5k investment) it's like pennies.
   
  Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I just got the model 1400 with pick 'N' pluck foam and works perfect for them.


----------



## jaycalgary

I bought that model 1400 about a month ago and that parcel and another one went missing and doesn't look like I will ever see it. That's rough.


----------



## darinf

I have a Stax 407 with a Stax 323A amp. Would a SRM-T1 be an "upgrade" or "downgrade" or just different when used with my 407's? I have never heard any of the Stax tube amps. If the sound is different, can anyone say in what way?
   
  I do enjoy the sound of tube amps for listening to speakers.
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





darinf said:


> I have a Stax 407 with a Stax 323A amp. Would a SRM-T1 be an "upgrade" or "downgrade" or just different when used with my 407's? I have never heard any of the Stax tube amps. If the sound is different, can anyone say in what way?
> 
> I do enjoy the sound of tube amps for listening to speakers.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 
  I recently bought the 407 in the 4170 package (006t included). I had a chance to listen to the 323S at length in the dealer showroom before making my purchase. I think it's a great combo with the 407/507. The 006t will give you a slightly more romantic sound, meaning the mids have a bit more richness to the tone and the highs are a little more polite. I actually found the bass to be very close but the 323S wins by a nose in the bass department as it has a slightly tighter bass. If you notice I used the term slightly several times to imply that the difference is not huge between the two amps when driving the 407/507. I also listened to the 007TII but at the price it makes little sense to pair it with the "lessor" headphones. Frankly, I did not like the 007tII very much with any of the headphones.
   
  You might want to consider that the 323S has enough power to allow you to upgrade within the Stax line at some point if you wish without the driving need to change the amp. You would not have the same choice with the 006t as it does not have enough power to drive the higher level headphones (007,009). Still, I am enjoying my 4170 combo and I find it to be competitive with some of the best dynamic and planar headphones I have heard or that I own. There is a synergy between the 407 and the 006t and that must be why Stax paired them together.
   
  I should have mentioned that if you really want to play with tubes the Woo GES is the next logical step up from your 323S.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> this part cool?
> 71-RNX0383M30FNLB


 
   
  71-CMF603M3200FKBF
   
  Why use metal oxide when you can have metal film.


----------



## Julez

Has anybody compared the 407 to the 404? Is there a big difference?


----------



## Chodi

I wondered about that also but since the 404 is out of production it seems we must do our own research based on various comments already posted about the 507 vs the 404 and prior reviews of the 404. The 507 and the 407 are basically the same except for the headband, the material in the cable and the earpads (leather vs plethora). In my own testing of the 507 vs the 407 the only difference I found was the slightly boomy bass of the 507 which many speculate is caused by the leather pads. There are numerous comments about a high frequency etch on the 404's which does not exist on the 407/507. I have also seen comments praising the detail, transparency and tonal qualities of the 507 vs the 404. All those benefits translate to the 407 in my experience.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I'd like to hear 407 vs 404LE vs 507. I'd like to own one of them down the line.


----------



## forbigger

404LE is a very good headphone with one con : upper mid peak, its like having needle poking your ear drum. The rest I have no complaint. All the good traits of stats are presented well with this headphone


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> The parts in question.
> 
> 106?
> 
> ...


 
  Spritzer, or anyone who can help.
   
  1.  Could you verify the values of the resistors pictured above?  I've tried to decipher the codes, but I really dont trust myself.  this is high voltage stuff.
  2.  for resistor #003, is 392k good?  it is supposed to be 390k on your list.
  3.  A couple of the resistors values are only available in quantities of 2500.  I dont know how far I can stray from the needed value to get what I need.  In particular, resistors #101, and #104. (910k, and 270Ω).  Could you suggest a couple alternates?
   
  Besides these part issues, I think I have everything put in a cart.  almost ready to roll.


----------



## kevin gilmore

these colors are a bit hard, so if you agree with the colors then...
   
   
  106    red red yellow    220k
  118   red grey red red   2.8k 2%  but measure it when you take it out
  002    brown grey yellow  180k


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> these colors are a bit hard, so if you agree with the colors then...
> 
> 
> 106    red red yellow    220k
> ...


 
  Resistor 118 turned out to read 1.78KΩ.  I'd swear the colors dont say that, but whatever.  looks like spritzers guess was the winner.  I'm still trying to figure out where he got the numbers.
   
   
 Last issue.  A couple of the Vishay resistors values are only available in quantities of 2500.  I dont know how far I can stray from the needed value to get what I need.  In particular, resistors #101, and #104. (910KΩ, and 270Ω).  Could you suggest a couple alternates?  different brand maybe?  I've been looking at the metal film resistors, but there are a lot of values in the data sheets that are greek to me.  you guys are familiar with these circuits, so recommendations from you are what I really need.  
  
 Here's what I have been looking for:
 Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/2watt 910Kohms 1%​  Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/2watt 270ohms 1%​


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> This amp is very old indeed but the basic layout is pretty much the same as the later ones.m  The 2SA1156 hadn't been released at that point so they used NPN's instead.  Here is the list:
> 
> 001  1K/1W
> 002  180K  hard to tell from the pic though
> ...


 
  I realized today that these are Half of the resistors for the amp.  the 100's resistors.  I assume I am supposed to be replacing the 200's as well?  So doubling most of the parts?


----------



## spritzer

Yup, I only did one channel so you need double the amount of 100 resistors.  The 00x are singles so you only need that amount. 
   
  On those resistors it's hard to tell the difference between red and maroon hence the confusion.  I guess my younger eyes won out in the end... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  For any extra resistors not available there are always the Xicon 1/2W lineup.  Try this link:
   
  http://www2.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Film-Resistors/Metal-Film-Resistors-Through-Hole/_/N-7gz41?P=1yzp15y&Keyword=xicon+metal+film&FS=True
   
  Given how the part number is made up then this appears to be the only easy way of picking them.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Parts ordered.  Thank you guys.


----------



## aj-kun

just received my srm1-mk2 pro & sr 202
  SOUNDS AMAZING.
   
  requesting permission to join stax mafia. =D


----------



## singh

Experts, 

What's an "OK" price for, stax sigma, sigma pro and sigma modded with 404 drivers ?

Also, can I get new 404 drivers from somewhere ? Or will I have to get old pair of 404s to get hold of the drivers.


----------



## jaycalgary

I am no expert but I just bought a pair of Sigma pro's that are absolutely mint except for the foam that deteriorates. It came with a T1 amp for $1100 that is in the best possible condition that 1 could be in but I have yet to try it out.


----------



## singh

^i think that's a pretty good price. 
Where did you get them ? CL , locally ?


----------



## jaycalgary

I bought the set of Ebay but it was in the same city I have a place. Seems like they were nicely put away and not used very much. They also came with some brochures I have never seen before. The blue one has pretty much all Stax products from that time.


----------



## CDPlayer

Dear all,
   
  Wonder if anybody could help to guide a newbie here. I feel that an upgrade is probably in order for my Cambridge Audio DAC Magic Plus, but what to, is a big question. There is a nice local shop with a good selection of equipment nearby, and it would be great to know which particular items from their offering are worth paying attention to.
   
  If somebody would care enough to have a look at what they have on offer and single out a few models worth trying out, it would be greatly appreciated.
   
  http://www.addictedtoaudio.com.au/DACs-1
   
  The prospective DAC would be fed either via USB (preferred) or optical from a MacBook Pro; output - unbalanced into a High-Amp Transistoramp V4, powering an SR007A.
   
  Thank you!
   
  -- Dmitri


----------



## grokit

Audiolab M-DAC
 Audio-gd Reference 5.2
 Fostex HP-A8C
 Woo Audio WDS-1
 Schiit Gungnir
 Violectric V800


----------



## jaycalgary

Nad M51


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Nad M51


 
   
  They don't carry that one.


----------



## gilency

Another normal Bias Sigma
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-earspeakers-Sigma-/160891526617?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2575e1ddd9


----------



## singh

Too high if you ask me . Even the start bid.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Dear all,
> 
> Wonder if anybody could help to guide a newbie here. I feel that an upgrade is probably in order for my Cambridge Audio DAC Magic Plus, but what to, is a big question. There is a nice local shop with a good selection of equipment nearby, and it would be great to know which particular items from their offering are worth paying attention to.
> 
> ...


 

 Had a look at the web site and nothing 'jumped out' at me. Have a look here
   
  http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18278&highlight=bushmaster
   
  On page 63, a guy in Melbourne likes it ( you could e-mail him), also see page 79. The Bushmaster maker states that there are many happy Australian owners and you can e-mail the maker direct. And there are dealers in Aussie too (apparently).
   
  This Dac with the Mark Grant PSU is considered to be the gorillas b***ocks of Dac's, unless you want to take out a second mortgage on something much more expensive. Anyway, read through for yourself. Service from both companies is excellent, and I think there's a 30day trial/refund system (definitely is with Mark Grant). I would DEFINITELY try one at least.


----------



## CDPlayer

Thanks so much to everyone who answered. Looks like I have busy times ahead! 
   
  -- Dmitri


----------



## madbull

Proud and happy new owner of a SR-Omega.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Proud and happy new owner of a SR-Omega.


 
  Did you keep your 007mk2 as well? A bit piggy if you did


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Proud and happy new owner of a SR-Omega.


 
   
  Wow, you have one of those now? *reads sig* And a bunch of other sought-after cans like the Orpheus HE/90, at that!
   
  Now I'm wondering which of your many headphones you use with the SU-DH1 I pointed you toward a while back...it obviously won't drive 'stats by itself, but you could just use the Dolby Headphone processing aspect of it and feed the output to an amp.
   
  Back to the SR-Omega: how's the clamping force compared to the SR-007 (and the SR-009, if you own or have auditioned one before)? The headband/arc looks a lot like the one used for the vintage Lambdas and the Sigmas, which likely means lower clamping force and more comfort.


----------



## milosz




----------



## n3rdling

Omega feels like an old Lambda on the head.


----------



## Chodi

Yesterday I finally received the balanced XLR interconnects I had on order for my 4170 system (407/006t). I was not expecting much if any improvement over the rca connection. What I got was a major improvement across the board. Where I felt this was competitive with my Beyer T1 system before, now it totally blows away the T1. I got more transparency, better deeper and tighter bass and it tightened the image and filled the center focus. What an amazing system for such a modest investment. I do have one small complaint. There are three inputs selectable on the amp but the amp does not remember which has been selected when you turn it off and back on. I think it is a bit strange that they did not catch that in design. So I have to manually select the balanced input each time I turn on the amp. Not a big deal but I am surprised to see that they didn't have it automatically go to the last setting. The system sounds so good I can easily forgive this oversight. Anyone using this system run it through the balanced connection if you want to hear the true potential of the system.


----------



## spritzer

The clamping force of the SR-Omega really depends on the age of the arc.  If it's the original part shipped with the phones in the 90's then it is very loose fitting but a NOS replacement has a much nicer fit.  As it turns out those heavy cups on a thin piece of plastic wasn't the best idea... 
   
  While speaking of the SR-Omega, I should get my newest set tonight.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey Spritzer or Kevin, or whoever, looks like we misread at least a couple of the resistor values for the smr1-mk2 restore. No big deal. But here is a question. If the old resistor tests well, can I just reinstall it, or should I go ahead and order up the new to match the rest? I dont know how long these resistors are supposed to last. I assume that just getting new ones would be the best idea, but I figured I'd ask. save on shipping more parts.


----------



## spritzer

If they test fine then just reinstall them.  Low power resistors should last a few decades but some are carbon comp and they are very unpredictable.  I do have a couple SRM-1 Mk2's here now for restoration but both are the final production version and not this early one.  Now why would anybody take a perfectly nice PP model and butcher it like this...?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If they test fine then just reinstall them.  Low power resistors should last a few decades but some are carbon comp and they are very unpredictable.  I do have a couple SRM-1 Mk2's here now for restoration but both are the final production version and not this early one.  Now why would anybody take a perfectly nice PP model and butcher it like this...?


 
   
  ok, so I'll replace with the correct values that I have.  It will be easy to tell which ones are new, so I can come back and replace them later if things dont test right.  So far the few resistors i've changed have tested ok.  I'm waiting to see the ones that are totally out of spec.  it will give me a real sense of accomplishment!! lol. 
   
  How do I tell if I have carbon composite resistors?
   
  I have been amazed at what some local techs do to things.  its a joke really.  Its like car repair.  you cant fix it yourself, so you trust someone who "says" they are a qualified tech.  Most of them spend their lives fixing guitar amps, so they dont give a crap about much else.  using cheap parts and just rigging things up to "work".  This is one of the main reasons I started doing this stuff myself.  I've turned into a very non trusting soul when it comes to tech service... for my car as well.. lol. 
   
  man, I should have waited for you to fix one of those units and bought from you!!!!  But I will be proud when this is up and running.


----------



## pkshan

I replaced 3 dead AMRG plate resistors last month
   
  Tested my t1s(ecc99 mod) yesterday,
  one of the amrg 2w 30k  plate resistor died again, the value increased by 10%.
   
  Not too long ago I found 4 dead AMRG plate resistors in a SRM600limited 
   
  so the AMRG plate resistor mortality rate is 50%? LOL


----------



## madbull

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Did you keep your 007mk2 as well? A bit piggy if you did


 
   
   I'm gonna keep it for now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote:


namelesspfg said:


> Wow, you have one of those now? *reads sig* And a bunch of other sought-after cans like the Orpheus HE/90, at that!
> 
> Now I'm wondering which of your many headphones you use with the SU-DH1 I pointed you toward a while back...it obviously won't drive 'stats by itself, but you could just use the Dolby Headphone processing aspect of it and feed the output to an amp.
> 
> Back to the SR-Omega: how's the clamping force compared to the SR-007 (and the SR-009, if you own or have auditioned one before)? The headband/arc looks a lot like the one used for the vintage Lambdas and the Sigmas, which likely means lower clamping force and more comfort.


 
   
  You know, I have two SU-DH1s now and I don't use them. I couldn't make them work with the digital out of my notebooks. Neither with the dig out of SoundBlaster X-fi. They're working on my Tvix 6500 though so the problem isn't them. Maybe it's a windows player thing, I have no idea how to make them stream the right signal through digital outs.
   
  My Omega is pretty loose, a bit too much indeed, well more than 007 mk2. It's probably their age as spritzer said and probably different head sizes through the years I'd add. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess I'm not as a big head as I thought I was... But they are very comfortable.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





madbull said:


> You know, I have two SU-DH1s now and I don't use them. I couldn't make them work with the digital out of my notebooks. Neither with the dig out of SoundBlaster X-fi. They're working on my Tvix 6500 though so the problem isn't them. Maybe it's a windows player thing, I have no idea how to make them stream the right signal through digital outs.
> 
> My Omega is pretty loose, a bit too much indeed, well more than 007 mk2. It's probably their age as spritzer said and probably different head sizes through the years I'd add.
> 
> ...


 
   
  So you won that second one I linked you on eBay after all...nice.
   
  As for making them work with your PCs, I think Windows Media Player needs "SPDIF Out" to be the default audio device...but this comes with the pretty severe drawback of "you can't hear anything _but_ DVD audio". If anything, I think it's more practical to just use a media player with built-in Dolby Headphone mixing. PowerDVD and WinDVD both support it, but they're unfortunately not freeware. I wonder if there's a DirectShow Dolby Headphone filter out there for use in something like Media Player Classic...
   
  Also, if you want to sell one of those off, there's someone who wants one in the B/S/T section. Just figured I'd let you know.
   
  On another note, serious question for you all: is it possible that the human ear's response could develop peaks and notches on its own, and imbalanced from the other ear? I only just noticed that the imbalances I hear around 35 Hz, 5 KHz, and other areas may not be a fault of my headphones...but my own ears. It's kind of distressing in terms of what kind of hearing damage I might have gone through and been completely unaware of until now (aside from my difficulty in hearing frequencies from 15 KHz on up at the young age of 22)...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> On another note, serious question for you all: is it possible that the human ear's response could develop peaks and notches on its own, and imbalanced from the other ear? I only just noticed that the imbalances I hear around 35 Hz, 5 KHz, and other areas may not be a fault of my headphones...but my own ears. It's kind of distressing in terms of what kind of hearing damage I might have gone through and been completely unaware of until now (aside from my difficulty in hearing frequencies from 15 KHz on up at the young age of 22)...


 
   
  Oh yes, ears can and do develop different "frequency responses" over time. This can be due to hair cell damage from listening to loud sound/music, nerve damage from things like drinking and diabetes, and mechanical problems with the bones and tendons in the middle ear.  The eardrum also hardens over time, limiting high frequency response.  And yes, all these insults accumulate with age and add in differing amounts in each ear resulting in different hearing abilities in ear ear.
   
  Typically, however, it's rare that bass or midrange hearing is much changed over time, but the higher in frequency you go the more likely it is that one's ears will have suffered some kind of problem that's affected one ear more than the other.
   
  Yous eustachian tubes can also become blocked from sinus trouble, allergy, colds and flu,  injury, low level infection and a host of other issues. The relative resistance to airflow through the eustachian tubes changes the mechanical impedance at your eardrum, and can reduce ability to hear higher frequencies.  Issues with eustachian tubes tend to come and go, sometimes even over a few hours congestion can set in or clear up and so on.  Problems with eustachian tubes almost always affect one ear more than the other at any instant in time, but as the congestion changes so too will hearing.
   
  Ears are NOT microphones, the hearing mechanism is much more complex than simple transduction.


----------



## juantendo8

I have a question about my original Lambda SB. On the inner metal-mesh (that touches the ear) of the right earspeaker, there is a hair that has managed to pass through. I'm pretty sure that it is the cause of a small buzzing sound when music gets particularly loud or bassy. I would use a tweezer, but my skinniest one won't work on the very small meshing. How can I remove it without damaging the Lambdas?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> ok, so I'll replace with the correct values that I have.  It will be easy to tell which ones are new, so I can come back and replace them later if things dont test right.  So far the few resistors i've changed have tested ok.  I'm waiting to see the ones that are totally out of spec.  it will give me a real sense of accomplishment!! lol.
> 
> How do I tell if I have carbon composite resistors?
> 
> ...


 
   
  No way of knowing which type of resistors it is without breaking it open and looking at the resistive track.  In any of these old Stax amps then all less important resistors were carbon comps so if it's not in the feedback loop then it's carbon. 
   
  Almost anything to do with servicing it always a pain and yeah, almost nobody does a proper job. 
   
  Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I replaced 3 dead AMRG plate resistors last month
> 
> Tested my t1s(ecc99 mod) yesterday,
> one of the amrg 2w 30k  plate resistor died again, the value increased by 10%.
> ...


 
   
  Not likely and the problem is elsewhere or a bad batch.  You can always go back to the TKD resistors Stax used for 25 years.  
   
  Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> I have a question about my original Lambda SB. On the inner metal-mesh (that touches the ear) of the right earspeaker, there is a hair that has managed to pass through. I'm pretty sure that it is the cause of a small buzzing sound when music gets particularly loud or bassy. I would use a tweezer, but my skinniest one won't work on the very small meshing. How can I remove it without damaging the Lambdas?


 
   
  The meshing is glued onto the transducer to I would not recommend removing it.  Other than that there isn't much you can do.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> I have a question about my original Lambda SB. On the inner metal-mesh (that touches the ear) of the right earspeaker, there is a hair that has managed to pass through. I'm pretty sure that it is the cause of a small buzzing sound when music gets particularly loud or bassy. I would use a tweezer, but my skinniest one won't work on the very small meshing. How can I remove it without damaging the Lambdas?


 
   
  Make a pin sticky.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Make a pin sticky.


 
   
  Any idea how I can do that safely? I can prod that hair around, just can't get it out.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> Any idea how I can do that safely? I can prod that hair around, just can't get it out.


 
   
  I often use glue of some sort to make things sticky. Seriously, look around your house for something somewhat-but-not-too-sticky and hope for the best. If you're careful, absolute worst case scenario is you've wasted 5 minutes.


----------



## Golfnutz

Maybe a piece of masking tape, twisted in the shape of a pin - glue side out...


----------



## rgs9200m

Is there a special Stax (or electrostatic in general) "sound"?
  I ask this because there are in other threads this ongoing discussion of whether the top dynamics are worth trading for SR009s.
  I feel that they are separate but equal, and it's not fair to compare the 2 technologies and declare stats or dynamics the winner,
  because never the twain shall meet. Both types bring their own charms to the table. 
  I own 009s and dynamics and can't decide which is better overall.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Not really, no. They're all pretty different or too transparent to have a particular signature. That's how I feel about the 009s anyway.
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> *Is there a special Stax (or electrostatic in general) "sound"?*
> I ask this because there are in other threads this ongoing discussion of whether the top dynamics are worth trading for SR009s.
> I feel that they are separate but equal, and it's not fair to compare the 2 technologies and declare stats or dynamics the winner,
> because never the twain shall meet. Both types bring their own charms to the table.
> I own 009s and dynamics and can't decide which is better overall.


----------



## madbull

After a few days with the SR-Omega, I'd like to say this is the most confortable headphone I've ever had.
   
   
  And maybe the best overall.
   
  But I haven't heard the 009 yet though.


----------



## singh

The SR009 + KGBH combo on ebay has a buy it now price of 5995 now, so i think its a good deal, he is giving way premium tubes as well.
   
  The amp is not the modified KGBH-SE, but the original design.
   
  or you can wait as it also has reserve price of 5495. ( but i dont think it will do you much good, if 2 start bidding at last, it might even go around 6K, and may be not in your favor )


----------



## MorbidToaster

He's practically just giving away the amp and tubes if you consider the new price of an 009 from Jack. 
   
  Sure seems like a bargain to me though I'm not too fond of the looks on this one.
   
  Quote: 





singh said:


> The SR009 + KGBH combo on ebay has a buy it now price of 5995 now, so i think its a good deal, he is giving way premium tubes as well.
> 
> The amp is not the modified KGBH-SE, but the original design.
> 
> or you can wait as it also has reserve price of 5495. ( but i dont think it will do you much good, if 2 start bidding at last, it might even go around 6K, and may be not in your favor )


----------



## jaycalgary

It has been up at least 2 times now. I despise sellers that have to list a whole set of rule on what they will do and won't do. Maybe whoever it is is just difficult to deal with and the buyers bailed.


----------



## livewire

He is listing this system as what it may be worth....max.
  This particular KGBH has had issues in the past with the power supply not supplying the correct voltages.
  Dont think the seller is qualified to describe the current state of this amp.
  Tubes? Three dont make a matched quad. Buyer beware, or be ready to fix it.


----------



## spritzer

I would stay far away from that amp as it's had some major problems and no qualified persons to fix it.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Oh this is that same guy? Guess I should've paid more attention that last time someone mentioned the listing. My bad.


----------



## verber

It's the same amp but different person selling it.  I was one of the people who bailed.  I wasn't paying attention when I placed the bid and realized which amp it was after I bid. [In a fit of stupidity I thought it was a headamp bh even though a semi blind, one eyed drunk could tell that this was not a headamp product] The seller was very cool.  I told him I thought I was bidding on a different BH, but was willing to go through the transaction because I did place the bid. He cared more amount a happy customer than making the sale and canceled the transaction with "seller purchased in error" and now relisted.
   
  The amp did pass through the guy who was band here and at the other site.  The seller tells me that it has since been turned over to some folks who repaired it.  I was told that The Audio Wizard and another guy did the work.  I have no experience with them so I can't comment on the quality of their work though the seller tells me that they have a excellent reputation in the main line audiophile community. The seller seems like a stand up guy.
   
  --Mark


----------



## idruke

I am buying an sr-007 mk1 soon and I don't have another $1000+ to spend on an amp. What are some good $300-$600 amps to pair with it? I have a good source already.
   
  Thanks


----------



## jaycalgary

I don't think there really is any. A good amp is going to cost you about as much as the headphones.


----------



## Yuceka

Ok STAX people I have some questions. 
   
  I am now using SRM-1 MK II with my SR-404LE. My question is this: would an SRM-313 be an upgrade for me or should I consider SRM-323s or should I just scratch all of that and go for Woo GES? This is also related to a future upgrade to SR-007 MKII or I. Which one of these amps can do justice and be the most optimal for both 404LE for now and SR-007 later? Or what I have right now (SRM-1 MK II) is good enough to not worry about upgrading to those mentioned above? 
   
  Thanks a lot.


----------



## juantendo8

I seem to have resolved the hair in Stax problem, but now I want to buy the Stax cloth dust covers so it doesn't happen again. I see that StaxUSA (Yamas) sells these, but are they even worth trying to purchase from? If not, are their any other alternatives? I don't need particularly quick service. I just want to get my hands on a pair of these.


----------



## ktm

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Ok STAX people I have some questions.
> 
> I am now using SRM-1 MK II with my SR-404LE. My question is this: would an SRM-313 be an upgrade for me or should I consider SRM-323s or should I just scratch all of that and go for Woo GES? This is also related to a future upgrade to SR-007 MKII or I. Which one of these amps can do justice and be the most optimal for both 404LE for now and SR-007 later? Or what I have right now (SRM-1 MK II) is good enough to not worry about upgrading to those mentioned above?
> 
> Thanks a lot.


 

  
  Has your SRM-1 MKII ever had the electrolytic caps replaced? The SRM-1 MKII is a pretty good overall amp,
  other than the fact age is catching up to them. Changing out the caps adds back some of the lost high end response.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> I seem to have resolved the hair in Stax problem, but now I want to buy the Stax cloth dust covers so it doesn't happen again. I see that StaxUSA (Yamas) sells these, but are they even worth trying to purchase from? If not, are their any other alternatives? I don't need particularly quick service. I just want to get my hands on a pair of these.


 
   
  I didn't buy a dust cover from Yama's/STAX USA, but I did buy a replacement headband fork from them once to repair an SR-202 a while back. They shipped it promptly.
   
  I wouldn't expect anything different if you're ordering a dust cover instead of a headband part, unless they happen to be out of stock right now, which I doubt.
   
  Good to hear that you fixed it; these Normal bias Lambdas are incredible headphones, even compared to their successors!


----------



## Chodi

I don't doubt that this has been covered somewhere but I've searched and can't find it. There are adapters easily available to convert my 6CG7 tubes to 6SN7's in my 006T amp. If nothing else, that gives me a far better choice for tube rolling. Is there any reason why the amp would not like this conversion or that it might be electronically unwise to do this?


----------



## spritzer

The 6CG7 is just the modern equivalent of the 6SN7 (which was outdated by the late 50's) so you shouldn't have any issues with doing this.  Take care though that some of these adapters are very badly made.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 6CG7 is just the modern equivalent of the 6SN7 (which was outdated by the late 50's) so you shouldn't have any issues with doing this.  Take care though that some of these adapters are very badly made.


 
  Can you suggest a supplier with good quality adapters? I really don't want to burn down the house or fry the dog.
   
  I should have mentioned that I realize I will be running the new tubes with the top off the box, I doubt they will fit with the top down. My tube amps have no top so no big deal.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Can you suggest a supplier with good quality adapters? I really don't want to burn down the house or fry the dog.
> 
> I should have mentioned that I realize I will be running the new tubes with the top off the box, I doubt they will fit with the top down. My tube amps have no top so no big deal.


 
  You could try PM'ing 2359Glenn or post a message in this Forum http://www.head-fi.org/t/600110/2359glenn-studio/855
   
  Glenn if very good at making adapters, however I don't know if he's made this one or would be willing to make just a couple. Still you never know unless you try.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I don't doubt that this has been covered somewhere but I've searched and can't find it. There are adapters easily available to convert my 6CG7 tubes to 6SN7's in my 006T amp. If nothing else, that gives me a far better choice for tube rolling. Is there any reason why the amp would not like this conversion or that it might be electronically unwise to do this?


 
   
  If you use the adapters, you won't be able to get the cover back on the amp. Or you will have to punch holes in the top cover.
  Most if not all 6sn7's are not going to like 700 volts on the plate, so large voltage swings might get nasty. And the tube
  bias might be slightly out of range requiring resistor changes.
   
  This is what you are looking for
http://www.ebay.com/itm/two-Adapter-for-6SN7-CV181-plug-adapters-to-instead-6CG7-tubes-/251091636787?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a763a5233
  quality unknown


----------



## NamelessPFG

Who wants some SR-Sigma Normal bias drivers?
   
  I'm pretty sure they're the same drivers used in the SR-Lambda, too, hence why I wanted them so much so that I could put 'em in that SR-303 I have lying around...but too many other deals I couldn't resist cropped up, and I have no chance of affording these now.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Who wants some SR-Sigma Normal bias drivers?
> 
> I'm pretty sure they're the same drivers used in the SR-Lambda, too, hence why I wanted them so much so that I could put 'em in that SR-303 I have lying around...but too many other deals I couldn't resist cropped up, and I have no chance of affording these now.


 
   
  257 +30 USD for a sigma (non pro ) DRIVER!!! its unused but a few years old, shipped from italy.
   
  are SR-SIGMA Drivers worth that? I mean if i were to get a sigma ( non-pro ) i would throw away the driver ( not now , now ill sell it  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) and swap Lambda pro driver in there.
   
  Hope the buyer enjoys it.
   
  On another note, auctions on ebay are crazy! i mean, i have seen people bid 1400 in last minutes , for which i thought, " OK, I wont go above 800 for this ".


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





singh said:


> 257 +30 USD for a sigma (non pro ) DRIVER!!! its unused but a few years old, shipped from italy.
> 
> are SR-SIGMA Drivers worth that? I mean if i were to get a sigma ( non-pro ) i would throw away the driver ( not now , now ill sell it
> 
> ...


 
   
  Well, the driver is the most important part of any headphone, and if they're in working order and balanced with each other, I can see them fetching a pretty penny. Electrostatic drivers have extremely tight tolerances, as I found out when gluing a split SR-303 driver back together and finding out it was still noticeably quieter than the other driver, which had stayed intact.
   
  I wasn't quite expecting that high of a price, though. I once saw an SR-Lambda by itself, Buy-It-Now, for just $250. I thought about buying it right then and there, but decided to wait a bit to make sure it was a good deal (got mine for the same price, but also including an SRD-7/SB), went to sleep, woke up the next morning, and...someone already snapped it up.
   
  Then again, this is eBay. Seems like the prices are higher there because of all the bidders who don't mind paying up so much.
   
  Oh, and speaking of drivers...anyone got a spare SR-303/404 driver lying around?


----------



## singh

Yup the drivers are the most important part of any headphone, BUT sigma. For sigma the unique housing is most important. 
The drivers in sgma are not most important cause they can be swapped with stax sr-x0x , with better result. Thats why i said , why would anyone buy sigma SB drivers. 
There was a sigma on auction on ebay at 699 no one bid on that and here we have 15 people bidding around 300 for a driver that wont do you much good without a proper housing( add to that almost all other drivers will be better in that housing)


----------



## AManAnd88Keys

Hello everybody!
   
  I have the opportunity to get a Stax Gamma Pro. Is anybody here who can answer these questions:
   
  1) How neutral are these phones?
  2) How do they compare soundwise to the Hifiman He-400 or planars in general (Audeze, Hifiman)?
   
  Thanks for any help


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





singh said:


> Yup the drivers are the most important part of any headphone, BUT sigma. For sigma the unique housing is most important.
> The drivers in sgma are not most important cause they can be swapped with stax sr-x0x , with better result. Thats why i said , why would anyone buy sigma SB drivers.
> There was a sigma on auction on ebay at 699 no one bid on that and here we have 15 people bidding around 300 for a driver that wont do you much good without a proper housing( add to that almost all other drivers will be better in that housing)


 
   
  Well, my interest sparks from the thought of using them in a _Lambda_ housing, and I already know a few things:
   
  -SR-Sigma and SR-Lambda (Normal bias versions) used the same drivers, from what I've read.
  -I prefer the SR-Lambda sound to the SR-202 because the midrange isn't recessed and it doesn't sound like there's a rough texture imparted onto everything. I don't expect the SR-303/404 to fare any better.
   
  Also, I don't see myself pursuing Sigmas any time soon. I'm sure they're great headphones, but the very design means that it won't work with binaural headphone mixes. (That means no CMSS-3D Headphone or Dolby Headphone for gaming.)


----------



## grokit

How many versions of the SR-007 are there? From a cursory search there's the 007a, 007 MK I, and 007 MK II. Is the MK II the same as the "a" version?
   
  Are there any more versions, and is there anywhere that I can be pointed that will help me to discern the differences between these models?
   
  edit: Nvm, Tyll to the rescue once again: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/comparing-world-class-headphones-stax-sr-007


----------



## gilency

This is a useful thread that mentions the differences between all the different versions of the 007
http://www.head-fi.org/t/420311/whats-the-difference-between-stax-sr-007-mk1-and-mk2
  SZ1 and numbers without SZ are Mk1, SZ2 series are Mk2.
  The one not mentioned in that thread is the SZ3 series, which unofficially many refer as to the Mk2.5 and looks the same as the Mk2 but sounds different due to a new transducer.


----------



## jaycalgary

The Stax Gamma Pro are fairly rare but there was a set on Ebay for the longest time for $300 in the box that took a few times to sell. I think the housing has an effect on sound that colors them. Someday I would like to buy a pair and modify the housing by just putting a tube around the driver so it is just like a Sr-x pro. Kind of the same thing Grado does with their drivers. Are you going to buy the pair? If you decide they are not what you want please let me know.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





gilency said:


> This is a useful thread that mentions the differences between all the different versions of the 007
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/420311/whats-the-difference-between-stax-sr-007-mk1-and-mk2
> SZ1 and numbers without SZ are Mk1, SZ2 series are Mk2.
> The one not mentioned in that thread is the SZ3 series, which unofficially many refer as to the Mk2.5 and looks the same as the Mk2 but sounds different due to a new transducer.


 
   
  Thanks for the answer, I appreciate it!
   
_edit: _I also found this one: http://www.head-fi.org/t/613187/stax-sr-007-omega-ii-mk1-vs-mk2-vs-sr-009-making-the-jump-into-high-end


----------



## AManAnd88Keys

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> The Stax Gamma Pro are fairly rare but there was a set on Ebay for the longest time for $300 in the box that took a few times to sell. I think the housing has an effect on sound that colors them. Someday I would like to buy a pair and modify the housing by just putting a tube around the driver so it is just like a Sr-x pro. Kind of the same thing Grado does with their drivers. Are you going to buy the pair? If you decide they are not what you want please let me know.


 

 Thanks for your answer. I'm still on the fence about this. My biggest concern is that a pair of Gamma Pro is 20+ years old today, as they were introduced to the market in the late 80s. So even if the seller says that they are in good condition doesn't mean they are still that way after some use...


----------



## Keithpgdrb

When checking the balance and dc offset on the srm1/mk2 amp, do you warm it up with headphones plugged in and music playing?  or do you just leave it turned on for a half hour or so with nothing plugged in?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> When checking the balance and dc offset on the srm1/mk2 amp, do you warm it up with headphones plugged in and music playing?  or do you just leave it turned on for a half hour or so with nothing plugged in?


 
   
  The amp just needs to warm up so I'd just leave it on its own.  You can adjust on power up and just readjust when it's warm.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Amp is done.  dialed in the settings, let is sit for a while, then dialed them back in again.  everything looks good.  going to set it up to burn in the caps for a while, while at work.  So far everthing sounds great.  Success!!
   
  Thank you spritzer and Kevin.


----------



## spritzer

Most excellent.


----------



## ericfarrell85

It's finally happened, a headphone has dethroned the HD650 for small ensemble jazz listening (and all its sub genres). It's only taken over a year and vast expenditures (LCD's, HE6, HD800, RS1i, HP2, HE5LE) but the MK1's are the perfect accompaniment for quiet evening, reflective jazz sessions. Their tonality, pinpoint imagery and ability to simply "get out of the way" (aka transparency) is unrivaled. They're also quite splashy through the SRM 323S, which surprised me with the myriad comments on their dark character. I sometimes miss the accentuated midbass of the HD650's and the laidback sound which never calls attention to any particular instrument or stage locality, but the MK1 is really quite a leap ahead.


----------



## Radio_head

Yep, MK1 = best headphones out there for small ensemble jazz.


----------



## Yuceka

Can I get some more input about SRM-1/ MK 2 versus SRM-313 vs. SRM 323s ?


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Can I get some more input about SRM-1/ MK 2 versus SRM-313 vs. SRM 323s ?


 
  IME . With the 009's I prefer the SRM-1/MK2 to the SRM-323s


----------



## NamelessPFG

You have got to be kidding me. Someone just scored an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro for under $300 shipped.
   
  It was listed at a $350 Buy-It-Now price too, so I wasn't expecting the seller to take an offer that low.
   
  Was it anyone in this thread, by any chance? (Seems a bit too coincidental that someone asks about the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro right when that listing showed up...)


----------



## Yuceka

I asked about that amp but not because of the ebay listing but I do actually own it and it's my first amp so I asked about my other options.


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> IME . With the 009's I prefer the SRM-1/MK2 to the SRM-323s


 
  Can you elaborate on that more? What do you like better on the SRM-1? If I'm not mistaken, SR-009s are easier to drive than their predecessors.


----------



## NamelessPFG

So it was just coincidence. Congrats on the new amp, by the way, even if it wasn't that one.
   
  What I do know of other people's impressions is that it apparently has a bright signature that matches better with the vintage Lambdas, so if you pair a modern numerical Lambda to it with a modern source, you might find it a bit too treble-emphasized overall.
   
  But that's what EQ is for, right?


----------



## rubenpp

Yes the 009 is easier to drive than something like the 007. The SRM-323s with 009 sounded edgy and fatiguing, I could not listen to music for more than 30 mins. But have no such issues with the SRM-1 .


----------



## CDPlayer

Following up on my quest to find a replacement for my DacMagic Plus (DMP): I think I'm settled on the Beresford Bushmaster (thank you for pointing it out, SquireC!).
   
  I auditioned Audio-gd's Reference 7.1, that was kindly recommended by the AddictedToAudio's folks, and found it a very noticeable step up from the DMP. However, at the price point of the Bushmaster I just could't pass it, and boy was I rewarded. It sure delivers in spades; and while I somewhat lament the loss of a USB in, I managed to work around it.
   
  The resuting chain is MacBook Pro -> optical S/PDIF -> Bushmaster -> Stax RCA cable -> High-Amp's Transistoramp V4 -> SR-007A.
   
  As a side bonus, the Bushmaster's built-in headphone amp drives my 250 Ohm DT-770 Pros quite unbelievably - I like me some serious bass sometimes, and this combo certainly can provide some head-thumping sound for those occasions!
   
  All in all, I'm extremely happy, with the resulting clarity, transparency, and very nice balanced presentation.
   
  Looks like some of my gear will be hitting For Sale forum soon.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Following up on my quest to find a replacement for my DacMagic Plus (DMP): I think I'm settled on the Beresford Bushmaster (thank you for pointing it out, SquireC!).
> 
> I auditioned Audio-gd's Reference 7.1, that was kindly recommended by the AddictedToAudio's folks, and found it a very noticeable step up from the DMP. However, at the price point of the Bushmaster I just could't pass it, and boy was I rewarded. It sure delivers in spades; and while I somewhat lament the loss of a USB in, I managed to work around it.
> 
> ...


 

 Glad I could help.
   
  Apparently, if you want to maximise the performance of the DAC, you need one of these. Moves the DAC into a higher league altogether - and return in 30 days if you don't agree.
   
  h**p://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_77&products_id=414
   
  When you order with Mark (assuming you do) there's a comments field - so mention any mains voltage differences, etc. Mark is very helpful.
   
   
  Happy listening.


----------



## jaycalgary

Is this a commercial?


----------



## spritzer

Personally I'd stay far away from Beresford and people with low post count recommending it.  The guy that sells that trash spent years on HF with multiple accounts promoting his own products.  Since the IP filter is broken on HF now he could just as well be back...


----------



## georgep

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> You have got to be kidding me. Someone just scored an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro for under $300 shipped.
> 
> It was listed at a $350 Buy-It-Now price too, so I wasn't expecting the seller to take an offer that low.
> 
> Was it anyone in this thread, by any chance? (Seems a bit too coincidental that someone asks about the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro right when that listing showed up...)


 
   
  Just out of curiosity, what does this amp normally go for? I have been considering it as an option.


----------



## CDPlayer

Dear spritzer,
   
  Apologies for inadvertently "advertising" the BM - I certainly didn't mean to use my post to propmote commercial interests of any kind. I only wanted to share my personal positive experience with a product that appears to work very well in my particular circumstances.
  
  Cheers,
   
  -- Dmitri


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





georgep said:


> Just out of curiosity, what does this amp normally go for? I have been considering it as an option.


 
   
  300 for an srm1-mk2 with an "A" serial is reasonable nowadays. The only reason you see them going for much more sometimes is because no one buying stax on ebay seems to know what anything is worth, and in the process inflate the prices. (for instance, a T1 packaged with a lambda sig went for something like 1600 earlier this year) You can find srm1mk2's for dirt cheap over at yahoo japan sometimes, but after bidding through a service like kuboten and shipping it here much of that discount can be lost. Also, on ebay and the like you can expect to see "B" and "C" serials going for higher, and the "P.P." model is the best version so that will also go for a premium usually.


----------



## georgep

Quote: 





otakusound said:


> 300 for an srm1-mk2 with an "A" serial is reasonable nowadays. The only reason you see them going for much more sometimes is because no one buying stax on ebay seems to know what anything is worth, and in the process inflate the prices. (for instance, a T1 packaged with a lambda sig went for something like 1600 earlier this year) You can find srm1mk2's for dirt cheap over at yahoo japan sometimes, but after bidding through a service like kuboten and shipping it here much of that discount can be lost. Also, on ebay and the like you can expect to see "B" and "C" serials going for higher, and the "P.P." model is the best version so that will also go for a premium usually.


 
  Certainly helpful - what are the differences in the B, C and PP?


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





georgep said:


> Certainly helpful - what are the differences in the B, C and PP?


 
   
  From what I understand it's just the parts used that make them different, and of course the "B" and "C"s would be more recent as well. The PP was released in 89' as the final version and had two five pin pro bias jacks rather than one normal and one pro. It also apparently used even better components than previous versions.   I think people have also found variances even when comparing the same lettered amps, so Stax was making small changes throughout the products life.


----------



## aj-kun

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> You have got to be kidding me. Someone just scored an SRM-1/Mk2 Pro for under $300 shipped.
> 
> It was listed at a $350 Buy-It-Now price too, so I wasn't expecting the seller to take an offer that low.
> 
> Was it anyone in this thread, by any chance? (Seems a bit too coincidental that someone asks about the SRM-1/Mk2 Pro right when that listing showed up...)


 
   
  I scored one and a Sr-202(practially new) for $550 shipped from indonesia to australia.
  =D


----------



## spritzer

The A, B or C markings are pretty much meaningless.  Granted all the P.P.'s are C's but I also have a high serial number A model here which is identical to the P.P. except for the silly output wiring.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Dear spritzer,
> 
> Apologies for inadvertently "advertising" the BM - I certainly didn't mean to use my post to propmote commercial interests of any kind. I only wanted to share my personal positive experience with a product that appears to work very well in my particular circumstances.
> 
> ...


 

 Since I seem to be the cause of this 'ripple in the pond', I also want to say that this is no more a promotion than anyone else on this forum suggesting that someone listens to a particular headphone over another. I was simply trying to make CDPlayer aware of other options ( as he requested) and mentioned the BM since it is a highly regarded DAC. The same goes for MG stuff, very highly regarded and 30day trial offers to let your own ears decide. Just trying to help a fellow forum member.
   
  Apologies if I have caused any offence.


----------



## juantendo8

To those familiar with using the old Stax transformer boxes,
   
  My Lambda SB coupled to an SRD-7SB recently developed distortion when listening to complex or particularly loud parts of my music (not deafening SPLs or anything). I have confirmed that it is my integrated amp, a Kenwood KA-88 that has developed this problem. I know it is the amp because this distortion also shows up on my dynamic headphones when I use the headphone jack, but not on my dedicated dynamic headphone amp. The Kenwood is a nice class-A design that has worked beautifully for a long time, but I think it is at the end of its life.
   
  If I had a pro-bias Stax, I might just shoot for a dedicated amp, but since I don't, I think a new integrated amp or receiver is the only solution if I don't want to spend major $$$. Can you guys give me some idea of what kind of amp to shoot for? I want a good but cheap amp, so I'm fine with a good vintage amp. What brands and models and how much power should I be shooting for?


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Personally I'd stay far away from Beresford and people with low post count recommending it.  The guy that sells that trash spent years on HF with multiple accounts promoting his own products.  Since the IP filter is broken on HF now he could just as well be back...


 
   
  No, it isn't broken. A quick search doesn't show bunches of people with low post count promoting it either.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> To those familiar with using the old Stax transformer boxes,
> 
> My Lambda SB coupled to an SRD-7SB recently developed distortion when listening to complex or particularly loud parts of my music (not deafening SPLs or anything). I have confirmed that it is my integrated amp, a Kenwood KA-88 that has developed this problem. I know it is the amp because this distortion also shows up on my dynamic headphones when I use the headphone jack, but not on my dedicated dynamic headphone amp. The Kenwood is a nice class-A design that has worked beautifully for a long time, but I think it is at the end of its life.
> 
> If I had a pro-bias Stax, I might just shoot for a dedicated amp, but since I don't, I think a new integrated amp or receiver is the only solution if I don't want to spend major $$$. Can you guys give me some idea of what kind of amp to shoot for? I want a good but cheap amp, so I'm fine with a good vintage amp. What brands and models and how much power should I be shooting for?


 
   
  Having worked on quite a few vintage Kenwood's then the problem is probably very simple, corrosion on one of the many switches.  Try moving all switches a few times and opening up the amp and cleaning them with some contact spray is even better. 
   
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> No, it isn't broken. A quick search doesn't show bunches of people with low post count promoting it either.


 
   
  Good to know.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Having worked on quite a few vintage Kenwood's then the problem is probably very simple, corrosion on one of the many switches.  Try moving all switches a few times and opening up the amp and cleaning them with some contact spray is even better.


 
   
  As soon as I get a contact cleaner, I'll try this. So I just spray the switches with something like deoxit?


----------



## spritzer

Yup, the actual moving parts.


----------



## juantendo8

I'm not familiar with vintage amp repair, so pardon my ignorance. This distortion does not appear when I move the volume knob or any switches that I know of. Could they still be the source of the distortion or is it likely that the problem is deeper in the circuit board? It is pretty dusty in there.


----------



## spritzer

Could very well be but the switches are a known point of failure in the old Kenwoods.  Doesn't mean it isn't something else though, just the first step in the long line of stuff to check.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Could very well be but the switches are a known point of failure in the old Kenwoods.  Doesn't mean it isn't something else though, just the first step in the long line of stuff to check.


 
  highly likely.................it happened with my old kenwood from high school/college days.
  then 30 years later, i found the same problem with my father-in-law's kenwood, same model.


----------



## Radio_head

For those who haven't seen this yet:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/631894/the-legendaris-stax-iem-strike-back-by-begining-november-2012-sr-002-srm-002-and-srm-003-mk2-srm-003#post_8782113


----------



## Chodi

Here is a point of interest that might help some people who are torn between the 407 and 507 as a purchase. I have the 407 and I purchased the 507 ear pads from Audiocubes they came in yesterday. The cost was $100 as listed on their website. I have a friend who bought a 507 ordered from Japan with a 323. He is using a step down transformer. He came over today with his 507's and I replaced the ear pads on my 407 with new 507 leather pads. We compared the two sets using my 006t. There was absolutely no discernible difference between the two sets. If there is a difference it is so small that we could not hear it. So...the ear pads seem to be the only sonic difference between the 407 and the 507. I can point out that the 407 plus the cost of the 507 pads is way less than the 507. True, you do not get the new headband or whatever the difference in the cable. Doesn't seem to make any difference in the sound.
   
  I will note that the 507 pads puts your ears closer to the drivers than the 407 pad but they are more comfortable.


----------



## anetode

chodi said:


> Here is a point of interest that might help some people who are torn between the 407 and 507 as a purchase. I have the 407 and I purchased the 507 ear pads from Audiocubes they came in yesterday. The cost was $100 as listed on their website. I have a friend who bought a 507 ordered from Japan with a 323. He is using a step down transformer. He came over today with his 507's and I replaced the ear pads on my 407 with new 507 leather pads. We compared the two sets using my 006t. There was absolutely no discernible difference between the two sets. If there is a difference it is so small that we could not hear it. So...the ear pads seem to be the only sonic difference between the 407 and the 507. I can point out that the 407 plus the cost of the 507 pads is way less than the 507. True, you do not get the new headband or whatever the difference in the cable. Doesn't seem to make any difference in the sound.
> 
> I will note that the 507 pads puts your ears closer to the drivers than the 407 pad but they are more comfortable.




Now if only the 407s weren't poop-colored...


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Now if only the 407s weren't poop-colored...


 
  Funny...there is that but I can't see the color when I wear them.


----------



## jaycalgary

They sound like it though.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> They sound like it though.


 

 Wow! If you meant that as a negative against the 407/507 I think it was unfair. I think they sound really good. Together with the amp this is a 2K system not a 10K 009 so I except the compromise and enjoy the music.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> They sound like it though.


 
   
  You know the old adage...
   
  Crap in, crap out.


----------



## catscratch

radio_head said:


> For those who haven't seen this yet:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/631894/the-legendaris-stax-iem-strike-back-by-begining-november-2012-sr-002-srm-002-and-srm-003-mk2-srm-003#post_8782113




I hope the thinner diaphragm doesn't mean the 001 will get brighter like the 009 and 007. The new amp and especially revised earpieces are welcome. The old earpieces weren't designed for human ears.


----------



## juantendo8

I was thinking of picking up a small NAD 310 integrated amplifier to complement my Kenwood. This model only has 20 watts per channel, however. Does anyone know if this is sufficient to drive my Stax Lambda SB through an SRD-7 SB transformer box?


----------



## verber

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> I was thinking of picking up a small NAD 310 integrated amplifier to complement my Kenwood. This model only has 20 watts per channel, however. Does anyone know if this is sufficient to drive my Stax Lambda SB through an SRD-7 SB transformer box?


 
  The first stax I heard (and immediately feel in love) were driven through an energizer by the classic Advent receiver which had less power than the NAD 310.   I drove my first pair of Stax with and energizer and the NAD 3020, so I _think_ the the NAD 310 should be fine. That said, it was a _lot of years ago _and I was budget constrained, so I can't say for certain if I was getting all I could have if there had been a higher end amplifier.  I am sure others will chime in.
   
  --Mark


----------



## n3rdling

Yes it should work just fine.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

From my experience with the sb energizers, it's the quality of the amp that matters, not the watts per channel. my Sansui seven sounded wonderful with the sb unit. Not a high wattage amp. 

Self bias.


----------



## milosz

NAD makes a pretty good amp, generally speaking.  Good at delivering decent amounts of current into difficult loads.  I would think the little NAD to be a pretty good match for the Stax SRD-7.
   
  The NAD "house sound" is said to be "a little dark" which I think comes from them voicing their amps to avoid emphasizing the "harshness" and "grain" that some people attribute to class AB solid state designs.  I think it a fine choice of "voice" for a reasonably priced amplifier that must make certain electronic concessions in order to meet it's price point. I think NAD tends to choose their compromises wisely and generally ends up with products that are more "musical" than similar products from their competitors.   I think it will sound pretty darn good.
   
  Using an SRD-7 with Stax 'phones, I think you will find that you don't really need much power at all from the accompanying amplifier.  The Stax set up is quite "efficient" as it were, i.e., lots of dB SPL for few watts.  I was surprised at how little power it took to drive various Stax 'phones to loud levels on the SRD-7 that I used to own.  Sound quality is quite good as well, though I found it a tad less "refined" than the sound from an SRM-T1.  The SRD-7 was not vastly different, really, from the SRM-T1, but the T1  does offer just that little extra bit of transparency and... refinement.  Hard to put into words.


----------



## juantendo8

Thanks for all the responses guys. I'll get the NAD then, especially considering how much smaller it is relative to my Kenwood. I think I'll stay with the SRD-7 until the day I graduate to a pro-bias Stax, likely out of the Lambda series. I'm perfectly content with the sound I'm getting now.


----------



## Elysian

Could anyone point me towards an SR007 MK2 vs MK2.5 (or MK1 vs MK2.5) comparison?  I remember reading one in the past but couldn't find it on the search.  I'm probably going to get a second SR007.  The 2.5s are easy to find, but I'm trying to decide if I should wait longer to get a MK1 instead.  I already have an MK2.  I've only heard one MK1 and I generally liked it.  It sounded very close to my MK2.  This SR007 will be paired with a KGSSHV.


----------



## arnaud

Elysian, I have recently posted a comparison between mk1 and mk2.5 (sz3) driven by stock srm-727 amp and others have commented after that: http://www.head-fi.org/t/626787/stax-sr-009-suggestions-to-tone-down-the-brightness/60#post_8774640

Incidentally, I am selling my SZ3 (Japanese version with silver frame and black cable /earpad). I have a buyer here but curious if I am underpricing it so PM me if you are interested .

Cheers, arnaud


----------



## Elysian

I really wish Stax had a MK1.5   Just from memory, the MK1 was a little more on the lean side than I'd like, but the MK2 has a bit too much of that dark bassy quality at times!
   
  The HE60 is actually possibly the perfect fit for me, but I gave it to my girlfriend and she's happily listening to that every day, and I stick with the 007A and HE6.  You would actually probably love the HE60.
   
  PMing you now, arnaud.


----------



## J-Pak

Not sure lean is the way I would describe the 007 MK1. When we did a comparison to the 009 on a BHSE with RFT tubes, the 007 MK1 had more slam on thrash metal and hard rock. Though my 007BL mk1 has fairly fresh pads on it which helps the bass texture. I've seen too many ancient O2s with pads years past their prime (even owned a set), those make the phones sound thin. IMO pads age/quality/fit are crucial to the sound on many planar headphones... maybe even more than the amp or source.
   
  I sold my MK2.5 since it had a touch too much Lambda-esque coloration for my taste. They aren't bad, in fact they're probably light years better than most of the stuff out there.


----------



## arnaud

J-Pak, my impressions are out of stock SRM-727 amp while I am waiting for a BHSE... My mk1 had pads replaced by Stax as part of the refurbish, it's an early batch (702xx) and the pads are very firm (at least in comparison to my mk2.5). The "lean" term is all relative too, I could have said it's flat while the mk2.5 has clear bass bloom in comparison. In any case, I will be posting update once the BHSE is in...


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> I sold my MK2.5 since it had a touch too much Lambda-esque coloration for my taste. They aren't bad, in fact they're probably light years better than most of the stuff out there.


 
   
  Could you please elaborate on that?
   
  Going by my own SR-Lambda vs. SR-202 experiences, not all Lambdas sound alike, even if there are overall similarities to the sound presentation (like soundstage).


----------



## edstrelow

A lttle brightness might be ok since the current ones have a marked treble roll-off.  I have 2 SR003's and the portable system and quite like them on occasion,  I always take the portables travelling.  Unfortunately it looks like Stax is keeping the oddball plug on the new portable amp.  That's a shame because you can't use the SR003  phones even though they are basically the same as the portable except for the plug.


----------



## milosz

I am a little lost on the SR-007  Mk 1 / Mk 2 / Mk 2.5  or however the lineage goes. At one time I had these things straight in my head but now there's been some data degradation....
   
  Could someone knowledgeable please post some notes on the SR-007 series?
   
   
  Something like this but with actual comments filled in for "SONIC REPUTATION":
   
            
UNIT:     SR-007 *MK 1*
  HOW TO IDENTIFY:  Only avail in silver, "thinner" earpads; Mk1 with early serial number (70xxx) &  Mk1 with late serial number and SZ1 after serial
  SONIC REPUTATION:  Neutral-to-lean sounding bass, neutral-to-soft treble blah blah blah;  hard to drive -for best results use BHSE, KGSSHV, DIY T-2 etc.
   
   
UNIT:     SR-007 *MK 2*
  HOW TO IDENTIFY:  Avail in silver or black, "thicker" earpads; Mk2 with SZ2 after serial number
  SONIC REPUTATION:  Mid-bass heavy, slight treble 'etch' whatever etc and so forth blah blah blah; hard to drive -for best results use BHSE, KGSSHV, DIY T-2 etc.
   
   
UNIT:     SR-007 *MK 2.5*
  HOW TO IDENTIFY:  Avail in silver or black, "thicker" earpads; Mk2 with SZ3 after serial number
  SONIC REPUTATION:  Bass blah blah Treble blah blah blah; hard to drive -for best results use BHSE, KGSSHV, DIY T-2 etc.


----------



## MuppetFace

Just a slight correction on how to identify the different models:
   
  The MK1 was available in champaign only AFAIK, with either brown leather or black leather (much rarer). The MK2 is available in silver or black, with only black leather.


----------



## TheAttorney

I heard from a UK Stax dealer that the Mk2 pads were available in both brown and black (I'd really like to have the brown ones for my Mk1 phones).
   
  However, the same dealer also told me my 71nnn phones were definitely Mk 2. Which really confused me for a while, but I'm pretty sure, from the information on this forum, that they are late Mk1's.
   
  Which goes to show that it's really confusing, even for the dealers. So I'm not now sure if I order "brown Mk2 pads" I'll just get the Mk1 versions.


----------



## MuppetFace

I've never heard of brown MK2 pads. MK1 pads are pretty scarce now too.
   
  I think some dealers may be a little confused, which is understandable, as it's pretty confusing. It also doesn't help that in Stax's catalogs, the lighting makes it hard to tell if some parts are brown or black.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I still think the mk1 Champagne and brown is the best looking headphone ever made. Still a little disappointed in the way the 009 looks in comparison (stupid lambda headband). Been considering finding an mk1 just to have the best looking headphone ever. It's gorgeous.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I still think the mk1 Champagne and brown is the best looking headphone ever made. Still a little disappointed in the way the 009 looks in comparison (stupid lambda headband). Been considering finding an mk1 just to have the best looking headphone ever. It's gorgeous.


 
   
  Obviously this sort of thing is highly subjective, but personally I think the SR-Omega may very well be the coolest looking headphone of all time.


----------



## MorbidToaster

The all leather headband did it for me, and the matte champagne color is just elegant as all get out. 
   
  They also came with a flight case rather than a friggin' wooden box. Though I like the Omega box more than the 009 box.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





theattorney said:


> I heard from a UK Stax dealer that the Mk2 pads were available in both brown and black (I'd really like to have the brown ones for my Mk1 phones).
> 
> However, the same dealer also told me my 71nnn phones were definitely Mk 2. Which really confused me for a while, but I'm pretty sure, from the information on this forum, that they are late Mk1's.
> 
> Which goes to show that it's really confusing, even for the dealers. So I'm not now sure if I order "brown Mk2 pads" I'll just get the Mk1 versions.


 
   
  The EP-007 from Stax are black and only black so I'm fairly sure that these are just old stock. 
   
  All Mk2 headphones have a serial number that starts with SZ2 or SZ3 but 71xxx would be the later version of the Mk1.


----------



## Michgelsen

If 71xxx would be a later version of the Mk.1, and SZ-1 even later than that, what serial numbers do the really early ones have? Did they start with 70000?


----------



## spritzer

Yup but the SZ-1 and 71xxx were interchangeable, the SZ-1 normally refers to an export unit but this wasn't always the case.


----------



## arnaud

Have a 702xx model here so mk1 started at least at 70000...

For color, I much prefer the silver frame/black pads of the 007A (mk2-2.5) to that champagne / brown pads of the mk1. Having said that mf's post of the original omega are absolutely gorgeous, and it is for me a tough call comparing to the silver/black pads 009.

All subjective indeed


----------



## jaycalgary

I am curious how a O2 Mk1 would sound with a 507 cable. They say it is the same as the 009. I know it would take a mod to do it but been there done that and it works well and a nice strain relief to boot. Just wondering if there is a big possibility that this could make them worse?


----------



## graben

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> To those familiar with using the old Stax transformer boxes,
> 
> My Lambda SB coupled to an SRD-7SB recently developed distortion when listening to complex or particularly loud parts of my music (not deafening SPLs or anything). I have confirmed that it is my integrated amp, a Kenwood KA-88 that has developed this problem. I know it is the amp because this distortion also shows up on my dynamic headphones when I use the headphone jack, but not on my dedicated dynamic headphone amp. The Kenwood is a nice class-A design that has worked beautifully for a long time, but I think it is at the end of its life.
> 
> If I had a pro-bias Stax, I might just shoot for a dedicated amp, but since I don't, I think a new integrated amp or receiver is the only solution if I don't want to spend major $$$. Can you guys give me some idea of what kind of amp to shoot for? I want a good but cheap amp, so I'm fine with a good vintage amp. What brands and models and how much power should I be shooting for?


 
   
  Why don't you just get it repaired? It would be cheaper and would last many more years.


----------



## gilency

Jay, I don't see how changing the cables of the Mk1 would make it sound like the 009.
  It's just not possible.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Jay, I don't see how changing the cables of the Mk1 would make it sound like the 009.
> It's just not possible.


 
   
  Depends on the cable thickness and especially color.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





graben said:


> Why don't you just get it repaired? It would be cheaper and would last many more years.


 
   
  I decided to try this on my own. I used some freon contact cleaner on all the switches and knobs, but ultimately to no success. It still has that same strange distortion that is only apparent in certain parts of my music collection. Unfortunately, I don't think I have the knowledge or know how to do anything else at this point.


----------



## jaycalgary

The 507 and 009 cable is silver plated. I wasn't looking to make the O2's sound like the 009's. I was thinking maybe silver would have a positive effect on how the O2's sound. Possibly brighter maybe wider sound stage and more detail. Who can say for sure but I would guess running at 580v the cable would have some effect on the sound being made of a different material.


----------



## grokit

namelesspfg said:


> j-pak said:
> 
> 
> > I sold my MK2.5 since it had a touch too much Lambda-esque coloration for my taste. They aren't bad, in fact they're probably light years better than most of the stuff out there.
> ...





Yes some elaboration of this Lambda coloration would be quite useful. I am evaluating a Lambda Pro right now, and I have to say that it's a very enjoyable headphone that doesn't seem take a back seat to my more expensive dynamics. It's my first electrostatic experience, so far so good but I wonder about moving on to other models. I would like to try an SR-007 MK1, an SR-Omega, and if I ever find a deal on an old HE Audio Jade I'm in. 

But I really have no idea what the other Stax models are like, only that the Lambda Pro is a bit different that the typical Stax signature. For the $325 I spent ($375 including a new set of pads), I am quite pleased so far, listening out of a WEE. When considering higher Stax models I can't help but wonder about the SR-009, but it's literally 15x the cost :rolleyes:.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Depends on the cable thickness and especially color.


 
  Yes and the number of 9's advertised in the chemical assay - obviously copper wire  claimed  to be 99.9999999999999999% pure oxygen free MUST sound better than wire that is only 99.99% pure oxygen free.  
   
  Never mind that the practical limit of analytical chemistry for determination of metal wire purity makes it all but impossible to determine purity beyond about four decimals, and even analysis to four places is CERTAINLY not something being routinely done in any QC lab in any wire factory or by a headphone cable manufacturer in-house.  MAYBE critical metals intended for use in man-rated spacecraft or nuclear power stations are subject to analysis at this level, but certainly mere WIRE is not!


----------



## spritzer

I really doubt the cable makes any difference as it's electrical properties are the same.  A Lambda cable will never work on the 007 though as the cable entries are so very different.


----------



## jaycalgary

My O2 Mk1's have a 407 cable on them right now. I am guessing it is about the same as the original?


----------



## vvs_75

That's  007 mk2 cable and  not 407 cable in the second picture.


----------



## jaycalgary

It is a 407 cable cut down to a nub and epoxy glued into a cut down drilled out part from the O2's. I made it months ago when I accidental stepped on the O2's cable and one channel went out. I was glad in one way because the copper in the originals strain relief was turning black.


----------



## realmassy

New 007 mk2 happy owner here  I've been using a pai of 507 for more than one year and some 202 before...I guess it was time for a change. The 009 are way to expensive or me at the moment, so it was a no-no. I posted ome impressions in the 507 thread


----------



## rubenpp

Congrats !!!


----------



## vvs_75

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> It is a 407 cable cut down to a nub and epoxy glued into a cut down drilled out part from the O2's. I made it months ago when I accidental stepped on the O2's cable and one channel went out. I was glad in one way because the copper in the originals strain relief was turning black.


 
  I see, great job! I thought that the first picture of the old broken cable, very nice.


----------



## Lord

Hello Everyone,
   
  I've been lurking around for quite a while now, reading a lot. But here is the time for questions. I'm about to receive a SRM-323s. I obviously do need a Stax headphone now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .
  I do not have any Stax resellers around so it is pretty difficult for me so see whether there is any significant difference between a 207 and a 307 or 407 for instance. If you have advise, I'm all ears 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  ps : my current setup is an HD-580 with HD-600 cable, fed with an Mtech HiFace + Musical-FIdelity Vdac + Little Dot (mullard tubes)
  ps2 : sorry for my english, not my mother's tongue


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Not to change the subject, but I will be in Tokyo in December and I am thinking about taking a tour of The Stax Factory!  If such a thing could be arranged?  I recently got a US PressCorps PhotoJournalist Pass and I am wondering how I might contact Stax Japan to arrange a tour.  It seem that Stax Japan does not have an e mail address.  Any advice would be great.  Scottsmrnyc


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Not to change the subject, but I will be in Tokyo in December and I am thinking about taking a tour of The Stax Factory!  If such a thing could be arranged?  I recently got a US PressCorps PhotoJournalist Pass and I am wondering how I might contact Stax Japan to arrange a tour.  It seem that Stax Japan does not have an e mail address.  Any advice would be great.  Scottsmrnyc


 
   
  That would be rather interesting if their factory is even open to anyone but no harm in trying I guess. If you like, there's going to be a Fujiya Avic festival show this weekend and Stax will undoubtedly be there. We (Tokyo head-fi) could ask them if they're willing to entertain the idea at all.


----------



## arnaud

I would definitely would be mad if I couldn't tag along a Stax visit. To be honest though, I think it would take a Jude or a Tyll to get those doors open, and even then... I can do some bit of translation but it may get very very rough on the edges .


----------



## satanigatan

Hey guys, I had a question about the SRS-2170.
   
  My current set up is the LCD-2 Rev 2 and the HD-600 w/ the Lyr/Bifrost. But I really want to dip my toe into electrostatic cans. Only problem is, they are way too expensive at this point in my life. I was looking at trying the Koss ESP-950 since the price was so reasonable. But then I saw the SRS-2170. Has anyone tried both? Which one is better?
   
  And on that note, given the set up I have now, do you guys think these basic entry level electrostatics are worth it? Or should I just wait a couple years when I have the money to afford the big leagues.
   
  Really appreciate it.


----------



## Scottsmrnyc

Well I know that Jude has been to Japan before.  I am going to Tokyo on a vacation; but wouldn't mind trying to get a factory tour of Stax. I now have a photojournalist press pass; so I thought it would be really cool to start a new project.  My work is not necessarily for Headfi.org solely.  I also write for The Audiophile Club of Athens as well as starting my own website/Webzine- THE EXPLORATION PROJECT.  I am going as a freelancer' but since I am also a member of Headfi, I wouldn't mind sharing my photos and words as well.  It's just not an exclusive for headfi.org


----------



## grokit

It's interesting how the Lambda Pros simply reject lower-resolution music. 

I was watching some YouTube music videos, and even the ones that were "hi-rez" were creating static in the drivers. I had to go back to lossless music to make sure that they were functioning properly, which they are. 

Is this common/does this happen with the rest of the Stax lineup?


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





grokit said:


> It's interesting how the Lambda Pros simply reject lower-resolution music.
> I was watching some YouTube music videos, and even the ones that were "hi-rez" were creating static in the drivers. I had to go back to lossless music to make sure that they were functioning properly, which they are.
> Is this common/does this happen with the rest of the Stax lineup?


 
   
  Even a good dynamic can expose the non-hi-rez nature of youtube. The Stax just makes it blatantly obvious. Much more interesting is the small imperfections that I can hear on some of my old music. I've found quite a few errors that happened when ripping CDs that would have otherwise gone unnoticed. Everything is just laid bare. And this is from the standard bias lambdas.


----------



## grokit

Yeah it's crazy how good these resolve, the detail is outstanding. I think that I even heard some phlegm in Norah Jones' throat on one of my reference tracks. 

But what really surprises me is how musical that these can be, I was worried that they would be overly analytical but that is not the case at all.


----------



## n3rdling

That's why I always tell people that detailed is NOT analytical.  They're not related.  The Lambda Pros have some emphasis up there in the FR, so hissing/static/that stuff will be a bit emphasized more than they should.  The O2 has a dip in that range and I enjoy listening to music on youtube with it for that very reason.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> That's why I always tell people that detailed is NOT analytical.  They're not related.  The Lambda Pros have some emphasis up there in the FR, so hissing/static/that stuff will be a bit emphasized more than they should.  The O2 has a dip in that range and I enjoy listening to music on youtube with it for that very reason.


 
  True I think. I'd call HD800s analytical, but not Lambda Pros (I owned these back in the 90s). Same goes for Omegas of any vintage.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





satanigatan said:


> Hey guys, I had a question about the SRS-2170.
> 
> My current set up is the LCD-2 Rev 2 and the HD-600 w/ the Lyr/Bifrost. But I really want to dip my toe into electrostatic cans. Only problem is, they are way too expensive at this point in my life. I was looking at trying the Koss ESP-950 since the price was so reasonable. But then I saw the SRS-2170. Has anyone tried both? Which one is better?
> 
> ...


 
  I have the STAX 2050 (the 2170 predecessor) and the ESP-950.
  IMO the STAX is the better of the two. More transparency and very clean highs.
  The ESP-950 is more mid-centric but also is a very good headphone.
  I always gravitate back to the STAX, but I like treble. Many do not.
  You should really listen to them before you make the jump. Stats are not everyman's cup-o-tea.
   
  I am also of the opnion that the current crop of stat-phones blow most dynamics into the weeds,
  with the exception of bass impact.
  I have heard both of the cans you mention, albeit with different a source & amp.
  They take a back seat compared to the stats.
  I too aspire to having a higher end STAX rig someday, but I am very, very happy with what I got.
  I still keep my Grados and Senns around for when I want a change of pace.
  If you can afford it, have both! It's all good.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





satanigatan said:


> Hey guys, I had a question about the SRS-2170.
> 
> My current set up is the LCD-2 Rev 2 and the HD-600 w/ the Lyr/Bifrost. But I really want to dip my toe into electrostatic cans. Only problem is, they are way too expensive at this point in my life. I was looking at trying the Koss ESP-950 since the price was so reasonable. But then I saw the SRS-2170. Has anyone tried both? Which one is better?
> 
> ...


 
  Honestly, in your position trying to get bang for the buck, I would spend my resources on a pair of Fostex TH900s and keep your amp (not that I've heard them with your amp, but the Fostexes are very impressive with all the good amps I tried
  in terms of resolution, a live sound, insight, ambience, space, solid deep bass, organic mids, etc.). If that's too expensive, maybe try ATH-W3000ANVs. 
  Both of these are seriously satisfying to me, up there with Stax 009s even and far less costly. IMHO, those 2 are in the big leagues.
  Maybe sell off your Senns for some funds to support your upgrade. I also think both of these are "better" (I hate to use that term) than your LCD2s, and you may like
  the new one so much you could sell the Audezes.


----------



## satanigatan

Since you've owned both, which one had a better build? Based on the pictures, kind of looks like the Koss headphones are built sturdier. But the Stax AMP looks nicer. Thanks for replying btw. Really torn on both of these, and don't have a place to try them out.
   
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> I have the STAX 2050 (the 2170 predecessor) and the ESP-950.
> IMO the STAX is the better of the two. More transparency and very clean highs.
> The ESP-950 is more mid-centric but also is a very good headphone.
> I always gravitate back to the STAX, but I like treble. Many do not.
> ...


----------



## juantendo8

Despite what it may look like, I'm almost certain that the Stax are built much better than the Koss, not that they don't have build quality. The vintage Stax are probably built even better than at least the new lambdas. Treat them well, and they can last next to forever. The lifetime warranty of the Koss makes this a non-issue however.


----------



## satanigatan

Okay! I'm probably going to try the SRS-2170. Been wanting to try an electrostatic can for a long time. And for now, it's the most reasonably priced. 
  Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> Despite what it may look like, I'm almost certain that the Stax are built much better than the Koss, not that they don't have build quality. The vintage Stax are probably built even better than at least the new lambdas. Treat them well, and they can last next to forever. The lifetime warranty of the Koss makes this a non-issue however.


----------



## livewire

Stax build quality is better than Koss. No doubt about it.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> Despite what it may look like, I'm almost certain that the Stax are built much better than the Koss, not that they don't have build quality. The vintage Stax are probably built even better than at least the new lambdas. Treat them well, and they can last next to forever. The lifetime warranty of the Koss makes this a non-issue however.


 
  Oh yeah the Stax are built better than Koss, no doubt about that.  Nicer materials too, than Koss.  Still, Koss EsP-950's  sound very good, and are considerably less expensive. A much different sound from Stax; only Stax sounds like Stax. (And only ESP-950's sound like ESP-950's)  The Stax and the Koss both 'sound electrostatic' but aside from this, they are quite different.   The Koss E-90 is a decent sounding electrostatic amp, even though it is made of plastic and comes "free" with the ESP-950's.  For what you pay for the Koss used, you really can't complain.  Lifetime warranty too.  
   
  It's said some Koss ESP-950's 'squeal.'  I bet this is due to dust inside the driver, something like that. Mine don't squeal, but if they did Koss would fix / replace them for free, so it doesn't really concern me.
   
  I'm lucky enough to have ESP-950's (with Stax cables)  AND a couple pair of Stax. Best of multiple worlds.  I like 'em all.


----------



## rgs9200m

I also had the ESP950s (early 1990s for several years) and liked them, but the newer flagship phones (stats and dynamics) are extremely more satisfying and not even comparable in my book.
  However, I did like the Kosses better than HD600s when I had both for the clearer presentation at all frequencies.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Just a quick question... I've got a SRM-1 here, and those two sets of RCA plugs at the back... they're parallel with loop out, correct? They're just labelled L/R but that seems like what it is but wanted to make sure.
> 
> So DAC -> SRM-1 -> WA6SE should work fine, correct?


 
   
  Yep
   
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> KGSSHV over B22.  As much as I like AMB designs, the KGSSHV is in another league.


 
   
  B22 is the best SS dynamic amp available (well, dynahi is probably a little better but it's close) and KGSSHV is the best electrostatic SS amp available.  Can't really say which amp is better unless you use the same headphone to compare both amps IMO, which is impossible for obvious reasons.  Can't go wrong with either.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Congrats Peter! Can't wait to hear your impressions.


 
   
  Quote: 





elysian said:


> Congrats Macedonian!  Hope you've booked time for some late night listening sessions this weekend


 
   
  Quote: 





madbull said:


> Congratulations, you inspired me to get a SR009 too.


 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Congrats Peter! Waiting for your impressions...


 
   
  Thanks fellas. Sadly with my son being sick and a whole lot of Lego Star Wars/Batman...then a funeral viewing for my mom's cousin and finally kitchen shopping (we're remodelling soon) and then getting the kids to bed...I just got to really listen as of 9pm tonight (currently only 9:40pm). But so far, no complaints. Great depth and heft to the bass and the best "quality" bass I've heard, imaging isn't as wide as the HD800s, but likely the next best I've heard. Shimmer detail on cymbals is the best I've heard. More to come....but so far I am one happy camper!


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well...got my SR009/SRM727II today. But I'm home with my sick 4 year old son. Funny how things work out that way with kids.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Congratulations Peter! Your set SR-009/727II combo looks just like mine. I am sure you will love them and will spend most of your headtime with them.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> Congratulations Peter! Your set SR-009/727II combo looks just like mine. I am sure you will love them and will spend most of your headtime with them.


 
  Thanks Jose. Really loving what I'm hearing so far. On to Patricia Barber's Companion (Gold CD) and loving it. It's like I'm right there in the jazz club.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


>


 
   
  Luckiest kid alive...I certainly didn't get to listen to $5,000 headphones when I was his age, or even get to use $5,000 computers or anything else particularly valuable.
   
  He probably won't realize just what he's listening to until several years later, though...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Luckiest kid alive...I certainly didn't get to listen to $5,000 headphones when I was his age, or even get to use $5,000 computers or anything else particularly valuable.
> 
> He probably won't realize just what he's listening to until several years later, though...


 
  He couldn't care less...just wanted to play more Lego Batman on the Wii. LoL.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Listen to something with great sounding drums. It's what blew me away. I know you well enough to know you probably have a favorite master of Hey Jude. Listen to it. It's the thing that blew me away. The drums sound amazing.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Thanks fellas. Sadly with my son being sick and a whole lot of Lego Star Wars/Batman...then a funeral viewing for my mom's cousin and finally kitchen shopping (we're remodelling soon) and then getting the kids to bed...I just got to really listen as of 9pm tonight (currently only 9:40pm). But so far, no complaints. Great depth and heft to the bass and the best "quality" bass I've heard, imaging isn't as wide as the HD800s, but likely the next best I've heard. Shimmer detail on cymbals is the best I've heard. More to come....but so far I am one happy camper!


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Luckiest kid alive...I certainly didn't get to listen to $5,000 headphones when I was his age, or even get to use $5,000 computers or anything else particularly valuable.
> 
> He probably won't realize just what he's listening to until several years later, though...


 
   
  How about a 2 yr old driving a 430 Spyder? Its all relative I guess.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I leave mine plugged in and don't move the volume pot much unless a particular album is really loud/quiet.  The only time I unplug is when I change headphones.  I think the "volume at zero" is a dynamic TRS plug/ground issue and shouldn't really matter for stats.


 
   
  I do that too and no harm can come to the Stax when plugging in at normal volume levels.  The dynamic need to lower the volume comes from the craptastic TRS plug which shorts to ground which for something like the B22 is very, very, very bad...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I do that too and no harm can come to the Stax when plugging in at normal volume levels.  The dynamic need to lower the volume comes from the craptastic TRS plug which shorts to ground which for something like the B22 is very, very, very bad...


 
   
  Someone killed Asr's B22 at a meet once, and it's suspected that's what happened.


----------



## rudi0504

macedonianhero said:


> Well...got my SR009/SRM727II today. But I'm home with my sick 4 year old son. Funny how things work out that way with kids.   My last big audio purchase (my LCD-3s) he managed to get chicken pox.  Funny, this never happened with my daughter.
> 
> First off, I want to thank Justin at HeadAmp for the great customer service shipping these out so quickly and great communication along the way!
> 
> Initial impressions are very positive!   More to come later tonight (sadly much later).




Congratz Peter For Your new stax set Up Sr 009 and Srm 727 mk 2 are same like mine 

I just improve My eximus Dp 1 With M2Tech Vaughan 

You can try M2Tech Vaughan With Your new stax Sr 009 set Up is heaven In headphone 

Sound Quality .

The best dac i Ever heard to date 

If You have Already pre amp please try it what i always use For stax set Up as follow :

http://www.head-fi.org/t/608775/impression-stax-sr-007-mk2-and-sr-009-srm-727-mk2-as-active-speaker-drive-with-tube-pre-amp-t-a-p-10-2


I Am sorry i quote without Your pictures , because In another thread many head Fier Friend 

Complain as i quote included the pictures.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





rudi0504 said:


> Congratz Peter For Your new stax set Up Sr 009 and Srm 727 mk 2 are same like mine
> I just improve My eximus Dp 1 With M2Tech Vaughan
> You can try M2Tech Vaughan With Your new stax Sr 009 set Up is heaven In headphone
> Sound Quality .
> ...


 
  Thanks!


----------



## Yuceka

Is there actually anyone on this planet who prefers the SR-007 MK II to the previous SR-007s? It just puzzles me that Stax actually downgraded their best phones sonically and doing pretty much doing nothing about it.


----------



## K_19

NVM


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Is there actually anyone on this planet who prefers the SR-007 MK II to the previous SR-007s? It just puzzles me that Stax actually downgraded their best phones sonically and doing pretty much doing nothing about it.


 
   
  Use the search function.  There are plenty of people who have previously posted who like the MK2 more than the MK1.  Have you actually listened to both headphones?


----------



## n3rdling

I can recall some people preferring the mk2 to the mk1.  It's probably ~20:1 ratio.


----------



## Solude

Not sure I've read that.  Have read people going to great lengths to make the MkII more MkI like though.  The measurements on InnerFidelity kind of show just how much fail the MkII is.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I can recall some people preferring the mk2 to the mk1.  It's probably ~20:1 ratio.


 
   
   lol
   
  but yeah reading about them sure makes you think MK1 is more flatter of the two. and we noobies, want to believe that we want flat sound signature.
  Reading more you get the impression that its almost the same, the difference is not big enough to justify keeping both. So it goes " as MK1 is flatter, MK1 is better. "
   
  if it was possible to audition, both it'd have been a lot better. As it stands, i cant audition even 1 , without buying them. ( so "which one will i get", you ask . " the flatter one ofcource" )


----------



## The Monkey

Having lived with both, I prefer the sound of the mk1.


----------



## K_19

So, having spent a few days with my new O2 MK1's and SRM-1 MKII combo (from a fellow Toronto Head-fi'er... thanks George!), I can say that this is my new favourite reference setup.   My former fav setup, WA6SE -> HD800 of course doesn't sound any worse due to it and still sounds great, but I do feel that O2 is more overall to my liking... sounds overall like a more comfortable, refined and detailed LCD-2 to me. 
   
  And yeah, the ancient SRM-1 probably ain't the first choice amp when it comes to these, but I don't feel as if I'm lacking much with this combo... likely because... well... I haven't heard it out of anything better yet... so it was easy for me to be satisfied 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. I was originally planning to buy a 323s for it to start off, but I figured I'm eventually gonna go the BHSE or KGSS route anyway, and felt that SRM-1 sounded good enough to me to keep as an interim amp and save $500 instead (as the 323s would be $1000+).
   
  And to recoup these costs some heads... I mean headphones will have to roll 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I'll always have fond memories of my LCD-2 rev 1's, but IMO it's overall too similar for me to keep. HD800 still sounds significantly different so it'll stay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  It's the least. fatiguing. setup. ever. BTW. I'm in my third hour of listening already today... and still don't feel any fatigue at all. I usually can't wear any headphones this long and it feels weird that with the Omegas, I'm feeling MORE comfortable as time passes.. 
   
  Here's the pic of my humble setup:


----------



## n3rdling

Enjoy


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Use the search function.  There are plenty of people who have previously posted who like the MK2 more than the MK1.  Have you actually listened to both headphones?


 
  This actually isn't helpful at all. Yes I did use the search function and the vast majority by a large margin prefer the MK1. Just because there are plenty of people who like them doesn't mean that they are in majority. There are also plenty of people who enjoy their Dr. Dre's. 
   
  Unfortunately I have not listened to any Omegas other than the SR-009. Who knows maybe if I did, I might like the MK2 more but since I haven't, I just asked a question here to get the opinions about more knowledgable members. If they both were in production, it wouldn't be a problem but the price difference between a used MK1 and a brand new MK2 is kind of big. So it still buffles me.


----------



## Elysian

My response was terse because there's a habit of people on this forum to parrot what other people say, and then it turns into a self-fulfilling truth since only a minority of people on HF actually bother to search out equipment to critically listen to before forming an opinion about it.  When I bought my MK2, I found several 2008-2011 dated threads on HF discussing MK1 vs MK2, and decided to go with the MK2.  Since then, I've listened to many 007s, and don't regret my decision.
   
  The MK1 and MK2 are both great headphones with slight differences in signature.  I would prefer the MK1 with some genres and instruments, and the MK2 with others.  I prefer darker headphones, a bit of extra emphasis on the bass, and music that pairs well with electronic and metal, and I find a BHSE-amped MK2 pretty compelling.  If I listened to mostly acoustic pieces, or more tenor/treble-clef oriented classical, I would probably opt for the MK1 instead.  I still need to listen to a MK2.5.
   
  If you search around, the price difference between MK1, MK2, and MK2.5s isn't that large.  If you're patient, you can find a good specimen of any of those three models around the 1400-1550 USD range.  Lately, the MK2s seem a little more expensive than MK1 and MK2.5s.


----------



## Yuceka

Ok that's great. I have never intended to affirm or deny the common conception about two phones but only ask why people say such things. I wish more MK2 owners spoke up and stated their satisfaction with them and also told us why like you just did. Now I don't feel so bad about obtaining a pair of MK2 but lately whoever I talked to whatever I read just says that the Stax blew it with the MK2


----------



## vinyllp33

Agreed.
   
  I think the MK1 is probably the most _accurate_ of them all, however I find my MK2.5 to be a much be better contrast/complement to the SR009.
   
  And as Elysian has mentioned it really will come down to the particular recording being played at any given time.
   
  Some have mentioned that the 2.5's are brighter than the previous models, that may be true but compared to the 009's they are still decidedly more laid-back and darker sounding; both driven from a BHSE, which is just the ticket for some music..


----------



## spritzer

The main problem is that the Mk2 is only slightly worse than the Mk1 so preference comes into play but the Mk2.5... well that's a whole different story.


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The main problem is that the Mk2 is only slightly worse than the Mk1 so preference comes into play but the Mk2.5... well that's a whole different story.


 
  So where would you put the MK2.5 in the spectrum ? By the way what is the current production model right now if I were to buy it from, say, Woo Audio or stax USA? Is it the MK2.5? Are the MK2 still in production?


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Mk2.5... well that's a whole different story.


 
  I like stories   Do tell.


----------



## arnaud

I recently posted my impressions of mk1 amd 2.5 vs 009 while driven by stax 727A. I thought I linked it here, maybe didn't. It's in the thread about reducing treble of the 009. My brief answer was: buy an mk1 (I don't know/remember about the mk2), the 2.5 is closer to 009 tonal balance in comparison but nowhere near as clean (in particular the bass port effect) or resolved.

The one advantage of the mk2 is a more dynamic sound out of stax amp. The mk1 sounds anemic / compressed in comparison. i happen to prefer the natural sound of the mk1 atm and go to my 009 when the recording permits / I crave more punchy sound.


----------



## rgs9200m

I had the Omega mk1s for years, then tried briefly the mk2s, then the 009s and feel
  the mk2s were an 009 work-in-progress.
  I too like my mk1s better than the mk2s, but the 009s are by far my favorite (and the only Staxes I own now).


----------



## WilCox

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Is there actually anyone on this planet who prefers the SR-007 MK II to the previous SR-007s? It just puzzles me that Stax actually downgraded their best phones sonically and doing pretty much doing nothing about it.


 
   
  Well, you're already received the responses I would expect.  Please let me share a different position from my perspective. 
   
  A few years back, I purchased an SR-007A (Mk II) from Price Japan, along with an SRM-007tA.  A number of people on this forum insisted that this combo was badly flawed.  I did what any self-respecting, obsessive Head-Fier would do -- I purchased an SR-007 Mk I along with an SRM-717 directly from Japan -- both in mint condition.  I was amazed at how little difference there actually was between the older and newer Stax vs. what I heard on this forum.  While I did prefer the Mk I and the 717 sometimes with some music, I also liked the Mk II and the 007tA as well.  Recently, I questioned the wisdom of having both sets, given the dollars invested as well as the infrequent use, and ended up selling the Mk I and 717, keeping the newer Stax.  The sole reason for selling the Mk I and 717 instead of the newer Stax was simply due to the higher perceived value on this forum.  I could be happy forever with either set.
   
  The differences that are sometimes expressed here on Head-Fi may be real, but are often highly exaggerated.  Both versions of the Stax Omegas are excellent headphones and are far better than most dynamics.  Let your own ears be the judge and don't depend solely on the opinions of others.


----------



## milosz

I had an earlier post requesting comments / descriptions of the sound of the different SR-007 versions  - no one responded
   
   I'm still hoping someone will post responses to the following:
   
  SR-007 MK I  SOUND IS ......?..... in comparison to MK 2 and MK 2.5 
   
   
  -or-
   
  SR-007  MK I  SOUND QUALITY DESCRIPTION:.......?
  SR-007  MK 2  SOUND QUALITY DESCRIPTION:.......?
  SR-007  MK 2.5  SOUND QUALITY DESCRIPTION:.......?


----------



## Yuceka

That's really helpful WilCox. Thank you for your input. I greatly appreciate it. I hope more people will chime in to answer milosz question as well.


----------



## schorsch

I really started to like my Mk2 when I used the Pawel HP-1 Processor.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## realmassy

yuceka said:


> That's really helpful WilCox. Thank you for your input. I greatly appreciate it. I hope more people will chime in to answer milosz question as well.



I recently listened for a week to a MKI with my SRM-600LTD: it was lovely, and tonally very similar to the 009. Imaging was especially good.
I couldn't buy because the seller wanted to sell the amp as well. 
So I've asked a local dealer to have a home demo of the new MK2(.5): I was expecting these headphones to sound like crap after reading the stories on this forum.
I ended up with buying them! There are some differences, the mk2 is darker, but to these ears are minimal, partly due to the amplification.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





scottsmrnyc said:


> Well I know that Jude has been to Japan before.  I am going to Tokyo on a vacation; but wouldn't mind trying to get a factory tour of Stax. I now have a photojournalist press pass; so I thought it would be really cool to start a new project.  My work is not necessarily for Headfi.org solely.  I also write for The Audiophile Club of Athens as well as starting my own website/Webzine- THE EXPLORATION PROJECT.  I am going as a freelancer' but since I am also a member of Headfi, I wouldn't mind sharing my photos and words as well.  It's just not an exclusive for headfi.org


 
   
  It turns out I could have a chat with Stax about this during the fall headphone festival in Tokyo this week end (see link in my sig) and they were open to the idea! It would need to be limited to 1-2 hours and obviously there's only so much they could show. But if you're going to do a report for head-fi here, we could possibly arrange a visit. I could help with the translation else look for someone like sasaki to tag along. Obviously, this requires planning so please get in touch with me in advance if you're keen on this. Would you have links to your previous articles and website, google search didn't turn out too hot.


----------



## spritzer

In a nutshell:
   
*Mk1 early version:*  Super smooth sound with the best midrange and bass of any headphone, top end a bit dark unless you drive it properly. 
*Mk1 later version:*  Not quite a smooth and the bass is a bit uneven but these are small differences.  Better materials all around so these will last longer. 
*Mk2 SZ2 version:*  Same basic sound signature but with a slight upper midrange/lower treble coloration and the bass is all over the place depending on how the earpads are placed.  Once you plug the port and lower the earpad height they are very close to the later Mk1 but a bit more forward. 
*Mk2 SZ3 version:*  Stax never told anybody about the design change but these have the port design changed a bit and the spring height inside the earpads has also been tweaked.  The main change is the new diaphragm material though and the difference is huge (just check out the measurements).  The smooth sound is gone and it its place is a etched midrange, uneven topend and a bass that while is tighter then an unmodded SZ2, is also much less linear. 
   
  Not even remotely the first time Stax have released a major blunder and going by the track record, it will take years until they own up and release a new model.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> I recently listened for a week to a MKI with my SRM-600LTD: it was lovely, and tonally very similar to the 009. Imaging was especially good.
> I couldn't buy because the seller wanted to sell the amp as well.
> So I've asked a local dealer to have a home demo of the new MK2(.5): I was expecting these headphones to sound like crap after reading the stories on this forum.
> I ended up with buying them! There are some differences, the mk2 is darker, but to these ears are minimal, partly due to the amplification.


 
   
  I've ever heard the 007mk2 or the SRM-600LTD, but l did have the 007mk1 + SRM-007t and wasn't impressed with that combo.
  After hearing IanG's 007mk1 with my BHSE, I'm regretting letting the 007mk1's l had go.
  I did hear Ian's LL with his 007's at the same time as my BHSE and the SQ was pretty even, however at that time both amps hadn't been on power for long, since then l've learnt the BHSE sounds a lot better after it's been on power for and above an hour. 
  I haven't heard Ian's LL after it's been on power for over an hour so l can't comment on that amp.
   
  I'm sure you're very happy with your 007mk2 + SRM-600LTD Massi, but when you've the spare time you should get to hear your 007's with the BHSE or LL, get in touch with Ian and we can make that happen.
   
  P.S. I've got on order the Aristaeus to use with my 009's, but 'I've read it doesn't drive the 007's that well with it being less powerful than the BHSE.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I imagine the BHSE yields better sound when warmed up. The LL certainly does. Alex states 30 minutes in his manual but after listening for myself I'd say an hour is when it opens up. 
   
  Quote: 





david1961 said:


> since then l've learnt the BHSE sounds a lot better after it's been on power for and above an hour.
> I haven't heard Ian's LL after it's been on power for over an hour so l can't comment on that amp.


----------



## Fishfood

Wow, you guys are really in the stratosphere. I just broke the bank and got a set of Lambda Signatures with an SRM-T1 both in mint condition. My first non-ipod headphones. I'm really loving the sound especially the spacial aspect. We moved into a smaller place last month and I had to give up my Quad ESLs and I've been desperate without music so I took the plunge. Front end is all analog: Amazon Model 2 with a Moerch UP4 feeding into an ASR Basis Exclusive phono which plugs directly into the T1. I'm very happy except the sound is a bit drier than I'm used to with the Quads out in the open air. After researching here, I ordered a set of Toshiba 6CG7s and will have Stax USA install them next week and look over the T1. I'd be thrilled to hear any other suggestions. Not sure how to post a photo yet but here's a link. It's a temporary setup until construction is done and then the table goes on a wall shelf and everything else on some sort of rack.


----------



## astrostar59

Sorry to slant the topic. Does anyone have a pdf of the Omega 2 MK2 manual? I bought mine recently second hand, and though I have the case I don't have the manual.
  Any chance someone can scan it and post it on the web, or pm me, and I can supply an email address.
   
  One thing I am curious is the fart noise on removing. Was it resolved, as I get a (slight) noise if I remove them a bit quickly.
  Also I am curious about the port. Where is it? And If I block it up, does it change the sound (bass). I am real happy with them right now, running with a Tubed Audio Note DAC and Tubed Pre Amp, with the SRM-717. Very smooth and organic, and no fatigue or treble artifacts.
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Sorry to slant the topic. Does anyone have a pdf of the Omega 2 MK2 manual? I bought mine recently second hand, and though I have the case I don't have the manual.


 
   
  Here it is on the web:
   
http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/sr-007-mk2.htm


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> Wow, you guys are really in the stratosphere. I just broke the bank and got a set of Lambda Signatures with an SRM-T1 both in mint condition. My first non-ipod headphones. I'm really loving the sound especially the spacial aspect. We moved into a smaller place last month and I had to give up my Quad ESLs and I've been desperate without music so I took the plunge. Front end is all analog: Amazon Model 2 with a Moerch UP4 feeding into an ASR Basis Exclusive phono which plugs directly into the T1. I'm very happy except the sound is a bit drier than I'm used to with the Quads out in the open air. After researching here, I ordered a set of Toshiba 6CG7s and will have Stax USA install them next week and look over the T1. I'd be thrilled to hear any other suggestions. Not sure how to post a photo yet but here's a link. It's a temporary setup until construction is done and then the table goes on a wall shelf and everything else on some sort of rack.
> 
> http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2708/img0528ny.jpg


 
  Just a quick question, do you like the Quad ESLs ? I heard them once in a store and was impressed, but that was a while ago. Thanks.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> Wow, you guys are really in the stratosphere. I just broke the bank and got a set of Lambda Signatures with an SRM-T1 both in mint condition. My first non-ipod headphones. I'm really loving the sound especially the spacial aspect. We moved into a smaller place last month and I had to give up my Quad ESLs and I've been desperate without music so I took the plunge. Front end is all analog: Amazon Model 2 with a Moerch UP4 feeding into an ASR Basis Exclusive phono which plugs directly into the T1. I'm very happy except the sound is a bit drier than I'm used to with the Quads out in the open air. After researching here, I ordered a set of Toshiba 6CG7s and will have Stax USA install them next week and look over the T1. I'd be thrilled to hear any other suggestions. Not sure how to post a photo yet but here's a link. It's a temporary setup until construction is done and then the table goes on a wall shelf and everything else on some sort of rack.
> 
> http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2708/img0528ny.jpg


 
   
  Probably not worth the money to have them "look at" the amp.  If you can use a screwdriver you can probably replace the tubes yourself.  Also, do you plan on using your fireplace in the future?  I'd make sure to move the headphones far away if so.


----------



## Fishfood

I guess that's not what I mean by warming up the sound!
   
  I was thinking of taking it in because I'm worried about the biasing process which when I read it here sounded over my head. Is it easier than it sounds? Maybe I should give it a try.


----------



## Fishfood

The Quad are still the best speaker in the world (and I've heard a ton of them) for people who like to listen to performances reproduced within a defined space. The ability of the Quads to recreate the sense of fingers on instruments and voices coming from mouths is remarkable. They also recreate the recording space incredibly well. It's like you can feel the walls of the room. Truly holographic. You just need the right amplifier! That's always the trick... but if you are willing to spend the money, they will give a lifetime of happiness, until you move to a place they don't fit anymore


----------



## loligagger

Is a scratchy noise normal for the SRM-1/MK2 when turning the volume? It seems to only happen at certain positions (around 9 and 2 o'clock). Is it just characteristic of the alps (RK27 if I recall correctly) in the amp? It doesn't bother me too much since I don't use those positions often but if it can be remedied I'll do that.


----------



## wuwhere

I don't have an SRM-T1 but I have two tube speaker amps that I bias myself.
   
  Its pretty straightforward.
  You need a plastic screwdriver like this one http://www.all-spec.com/products/AT-3767.html?gclid=CLKCsqzupLMCFQmonQod6FQA9w
   
  I also use a minigrabber to clip the pins at one end and the DMM leads at the other.
  Get a few of these. I would clip all the pins first before I start (both left and right channels).
  That way I only have to clip the DMM leads at the other end.
  http://www.robotshop.com/elenco-tl-21-mini-minigrabber.html
   
   
  With the amp off, swap the tubes. With new tubes I usually let the tube warm for 15 to 20 minutes before I adjust their bias.
   
  Here's the thread on how to bias an SRM-T1.  Good luck.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/324155/biasing-stax-srm-t1


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> Is a scratchy noise normal for the SRM-1/MK2 when turning the volume? It seems to only happen at certain positions (around 9 and 2 o'clock). Is it just characteristic of the alps (RK27 if I recall correctly) in the amp? It doesn't bother me too much since I don't use those positions often but if it can be remedied I'll do that.


 
   
  I don't hear it at all. And I've never heard such noises in any amp with the Blue Velvet Pot. It might need some remedying.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> The Quad are still the best speaker in the world (and I've heard a ton of them) for people who like to listen to performances reproduced within a defined space. The ability of the Quads to recreate the sense of fingers on instruments and voices coming from mouths is remarkable. They also recreate the recording space incredibly well. It's like you can feel the walls of the room. Truly holographic. You just need the right amplifier! That's always the trick... but if you are willing to spend the money, they will give a lifetime of happiness, until you move to a place they don't fit anymore


 
  Sorry about your loss (but headphones have come a long way; I also had to use phones for domestic purposes much of the time, but now I love my phones
  and would never be without them, as they do some things speakers never do, so I'm a believer, at least in my 009s, TH900s, and W3000ANVs).
   
  Yep, I heard the Quad 2805s and, although I didn't hear much bass and the images were a bit small, I heard the an extraordinary delicacy and impression of reality
  as if I could just touch the violin right in front of me, like a hologram or a transporter from Star Trek, it just materialized right in front of me,
  and I never got that out of my head. It's funny, because I was never a big fan of Martin Logans or Maggies, but the Quads were special in creating
  virtual reality.


----------



## J-Pak

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> The Quad are still the best speaker in the world (and I've heard a ton of them) for people who like to listen to performances reproduced within a defined space. The ability of the Quads to recreate the sense of fingers on instruments and voices coming from mouths is remarkable. They also recreate the recording space incredibly well. It's like you can feel the walls of the room. Truly holographic. You just need the right amplifier! That's always the trick... but if you are willing to spend the money, they will give a lifetime of happiness, until you move to a place they don't fit anymore


 
   
  Which Quads did you have, and what amp did you use?


----------



## milosz

SPRITZER   many thanks for your concise notes about the  various SR-007 models.  That's really useful information.


----------



## milosz

I've got a pair of ESL-57's made in 1969, with rebuilt treble panels done by Wayne Piquet of Quads Unlimited.  I also replaced the cooked HT boards with his units, and added his zener protection boards.
   
  I  LOVE my ESL-57's.  There is just something about the "embodied" quality of their sound from the bass through the mids. It's an incredible "rightness" to the frequency range where all musical instruments have their fundamentals and first overtone or two.   I think it comes from a very smooth frequency response in the realm, along with VERY VERY low distortion and very good time-domain behavior. Voices, guitars, acoustic bass, timbales, tabla, reeds- they are all so "palpable" with no hist of "chestiness" or overhang.  The highs are good but beamy, and the bass is excellent within the dynamic limits of the speaker. 
   
  I use them in a small room, well out from the back wall and not terribly far from my listening chair. I am able to get quite good volume levels and really very good bass down to just below 40 Hz.
   
  I have tried a wide variety of amplifiers, within my budget. I have settled on two: a Forte 4a with the "Soderburg"  mods, and a Citation 2 with "full McShane" mods. The Forte has great bass, liquid mids and airy highs; the Citation's bass is nearly as good but lacks a little of the Forte's control, while at the same time having fabulous mids and 'sweeter' highs.
   
  I've found that tube or solid state amps less than 50 watts / channel just don't quite get me the most out of this speaker, even though many people say not to use more than 30 watts/ch.  With the zener clamps, there's no danger to the panels from higher powered amps.  I've never heard the sound of the clamps in operation except once when I purposely tried to see how loud I could play the system, on a 120 watt/channel class A solid state amp I was trying out.  You can certainly hear it when you "hit the zener clamp level" - horrible distortion, made me fear for the amp-  but after lowering the level, all was well.
   
  I got mine for $500 on eBay, local pickup, in "as is" condition.  I think the treble panel rebuild cost $600, and the sundry boards added another $200 or so.  So, say maybe $1,500 when all was said and done.   Best audio money I ever spent.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> In a nutshell:
> 
> *Mk1 early version:*  Super smooth sound with the best midrange and bass of any headphone, top end a bit dark unless you drive it properly.
> *Mk1 later version:*  Not quite a smooth and the bass is a bit uneven but these are small differences.  Better materials all around so these will last longer.


 
   
  Any way to distinguish between these 2 versions? Without reaching for a screwdriver. 
   
  My set has had the headband replaced and I guess the serial number was lost in the process - so that is not an option.
   
  Thanks!


----------



## catscratch

I believe the early versions had serials starting with "70xxx" and "71xxx" while the latter versions had "SZ1-xxxx" serials, but I'm not sure if the change happened with the switch to SZ1-style serial numbers. It may have happened before.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> Is a scratchy noise normal for the SRM-1/MK2 when turning the volume? It seems to only happen at certain positions (around 9 and 2 o'clock). Is it just characteristic of the alps (RK27 if I recall correctly) in the amp? It doesn't bother me too much since I don't use those positions often but if it can be remedied I'll do that.


 
   
  Get some deoxit and use it to clean the wiper inside the pot which will make it like new again. 
   
  Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> Any way to distinguish between these 2 versions? Without reaching for a screwdriver.
> 
> My set has had the headband replaced and I guess the serial number was lost in the process - so that is not an option.
> 
> Thanks!


 
   
  There is a material difference but you have to know what to look for.  Otherwise it's off with the earpads and look at the driver frame.  The serial number is also on the cardboard box the phones shipped in if you have it.


----------



## astrostar59

Off topic: I run my system with a tubed pre amp which has 2 x pre-out RCAs. I run one to my main speakers, and the other to the Stax SRM-717.
   
  Will running 2 loads reduce the quality or strength of the signal from the pre-amp, even if one or the other is switched off?
   
  Just curious, as technically connecting 2 x output devices would raise the resistance yes? Or does it not matter if one is switched off?
   
  I don't really want to unhook one or the other as my listing goes to speakers or headphone for the evening...


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Off topic: I run my system with a tubed pre amp which has 2 x pre-out RCAs. I run one to my main speakers, and the other to the Stax SRM-717.
> 
> Will running 2 loads reduce the quality or strength of the signal from the pre-amp, even if one or the other is switched off?
> 
> ...


 
  You should not have a problem at all. My pre-amp has 2 balanced outputs and 2 single ended outputs active at the same time. Also my PWD DAC has a single ended output and a balanced output. I am using both at the same time feeding my pre-amp and also my WA-5LE.
   
  I even split the siganl of one of the output with no audible difference at all.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> You should not have a problem at all. My pre-amp has 2 balanced outputs and 2 single ended outputs active at the same time. Also my PWD DAC has a single ended output and a balanced output. I am using both at the same time feeding my pre-amp and also my WA-5LE.
> 
> I even split the siganl of one of the output with no audible difference at all.


 

 Running through 2 preamps/attenuators wrecks the sound. I tried it every which way from Adam with many preamps and headphone amps for a long time, some of very high quality, and gave up on it completely.
  I was doing it for convenience (remote volume control), and also adding finer volume control when stepped attenuators were an issue in high-gain situations.
  It always failed and sent audiophile sound out the window. Resolution, imaging, staging, you name it, ruined.
  So no free lunch. Sorry to be so harsh, but those were my (frustrating) results.
   
  Addendum, I also tried the trick of setting one attenuator in the chain to max, as I was advised, and that did no good for the sound.
  Note: even when a 2nd attenuator is not involved, although not as bad, it also removed a lot of resolution and made the sound unacceptable.
  For instance, the Rca and XLR outputs of my Stax 007t/ii amp muddle the sound. So do the similar outputs of my Rudistor RP010B amp.
  I think it's just the fact that there is a detour through and a 2nd set of interconnects.
  (And i love both these amps used direct with a source and headphones.)
  This happens with headphones or speakers.
   
  To me, source==>headphone amp===>phones  and source==>preamp==>amp===>speakers are the only ways to consider or even try if you care about the sound.
  That's why I always use a headphone amp that can serve as a preamp too, and also use a source with 2 sets of outputs.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Running through 2 preamps/attenuators wrecks the sound. I tried it every which way from Adam with many preamps and headphone amps for a long time, some of very high quality, and gave up on it completely.
> I was doing it for convenience (remote volume control), and also adding finer volume control when stepped attenuators were an issue in high-gain situations.
> It always failed and sent audiophile sound out the window. Resolution, imaging, staging, you name it, ruined.
> So no free lunch. Sorry to be so harsh, but those were my (frustrating) results.
> ...


 
  I am not running the signal through two attenuators or volume controls and I don't think he is asking that. He is what I am doing in one of my systems.
   
  Source => DAC === XLR output==>Y XLR Spliter ==> Preamp === XLR output 1 ==> Speakers amplifier.
                            I                                       I                        L === XLR output 2 ==> speaker amplifier driving HE-6.
                            I                                       L =====> 727 II
                            L=== RCA output ==> WA5-LE


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *spritzer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Get some deoxit and use it to clean the wiper inside the pot which will make it like new again.


 
   
  Thanks, that did it.


----------



## Fishfood

Quote: 





j-pak said:


> Which Quads did you have, and what amp did you use?


 
  ESL57s with a Rogue Atlas (KT120s) custom outfitted for the Quads by Mark at Rogue.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> I am not running the signal through two attenuators or volume controls and I don't think he is asking that. He is what I am doing in one of my systems.
> 
> Source => DAC === XLR output==>Y XLR Spliter ==> Preamp === XLR output 1 ==> Speakers amplifier.
> I                                       I                        L === XLR output 2 ==> speaker amplifier driving HE-6.
> ...


 
  OK, got it, I misunderstood. Nice Diagram sir!
  Sorry for the rant.
  Anyhow, now I need to deal (in the morning) with the 50-60 foot tree that fell over in my front yard an hour or so ago in the storm here in NJ about 15 feet from my front door.
  (Some gutters/shutters also fell off.)
  Thanks again.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> The Quad are still the best speaker in the world (and I've heard a ton of them) for people who like to listen to performances reproduced within a defined space. The ability of the Quads to recreate the sense of fingers on instruments and voices coming from mouths is remarkable. They also recreate the recording space incredibly well. It's like you can feel the walls of the room. Truly holographic. You just need the right amplifier! That's always the trick... but if you are willing to spend the money, they will give a lifetime of happiness, until you move to a place they don't fit anymore


 

 Well beside the Stax f-81 speakers )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is a material difference but you have to know what to look for.  Otherwise it's off with the earpads and look at the driver frame.  The serial number is also on the cardboard box the phones shipped in if you have it.


 
   
  I don't have the box either unfortunately, I have replaced the earpads before so I don't mind doing that - what are the differences to look for in the driver frame? Thanks for the help by the way


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> ESL57s with a Rogue Atlas (KT120s) custom outfitted for the Quads by Mark at Rogue.


 
   
   
  Oh I bet that sounds great.  
   
  What did he do to the amplifier to "outfit it" for the Quads?


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> OK, got it, I misunderstood. Nice Diagram sir!
> Sorry for the rant.
> Anyhow, now I need to deal (in the morning) with the 50-60 foot tree that fell over in my front yard an hour or so ago in the storm here in NJ about 15 feet from my front door.
> (Some gutters/shutters also fell off.)
> Thanks again.


 
  Np problem. Stay safe.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Was there ever a consensus on what the best earpad replacement was for the original sr-lambda from a performance standpoint?  I know I've asked this before, but there may not really be an strong opinions.  pads are next on my list.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> I don't have the box either unfortunately, I have replaced the earpads before so I don't mind doing that - what are the differences to look for in the driver frame? Thanks for the help by the way


 
   
  There is a small piece that covers the cable entry on the new ones but the old ones are a single piece with the cable connections on the back, inside the housing.


----------



## Otakusound

keithpgdrb said:


> Was there ever a consensus on what the best earpad replacement was for the original sr-lambda from a performance standpoint?  I know I've asked this before, but there may not really be an strong opinions.  pads are next on my list.




Do you mean new style vs previous styles of pads or just which version of the new? I'm not positive about pad differences from a performance standpoint, since I haven't tried old and new on the same model of lambda, but I can say the old style is much more comfortable. My 404, 303, and Lambda sig have the new style and become uncomfortable after long sessions of listening. (though admittedly the old style frame does help ease this a bit)


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





otakusound said:


> Do you mean new style vs previous styles of pads or just which version of the new? I'm not positive about pad differences from a performance standpoint, since I haven't tried old and new on the same model of lambda, but I can say the old style is much more comfortable. My 404, 303, and Lambda sig have the new style and become uncomfortable after long sessions of listening. (though admittedly the old style frame does help ease this a bit)


 
  I have the original sr-lambda normal bias, and I'm looking to replace the pads because they are pretty stiff, and probably flatter then they should be..  the original were a fake leather of some kind.  I was wondering if any of the newer pads made of leather would make an improvement in sound.  I suppose I also should make sure which model actually fits my cans.  if my only option is the 202 pad, then thats fine as well.  just trying to make an educated decision.  typically, after I buy something, I find out I should have spent a few dollars for the upgrade.  trying to avoid that.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I have the original sr-lambda normal bias, and I'm looking to replace the pads because they are pretty stiff, and probably flatter then they should be..  the original were a fake leather of some kind.  I was wondering if any of the newer pads made of leather would make an improvement in sound.  I suppose I also should make sure which model actually fits my cans.  if my only option is the 202 pad, then thats fine as well.  just trying to make an educated decision.  typically, after I buy something, I find out I should have spent a few dollars for the upgrade.  trying to avoid that.


 
   
  Any Lambda model's pads will fit since Stax hasn't really changed the earcup design over the last 33 years (just the headband/arc), so the decision mostly lies in which pads you prefer the feel of.
   
  I don't have any experience with the real leather pads used on some models, but I did notice that the SR-202's pads felt almost as stiff while the SR-303's were noticeably softer, so there is a difference even between pleather pads.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
  
  *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
  
 Now, looks like I've got three Pips (all my dynamic cans) and the SR009s are my new Gladys Knight! This is rather a surprising finding for me as I've never been really swayed enough to pick up a Stax rig (though the SR007 MKIs did have me humming and hawing for a while).
  
 The deep bass that I LOVE on the LCD-3s is there on my SR-009s with unbelievably better control (didn't think that was possible over the LCD-3s 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



). Imaging is just under the HD800s, but precision of placement within that sound stage is un-matched. And detail retrieval...no other headphone comes close to them. I heard things on the SR-009s these past few days that none of my other headphones (past or present) has ever revealed. And mostly on recordings that I've known for over 20 - 25 years!

   
  More to come...


----------



## loligagger

I've been checking the balance/offset on my srm-1/mk2 and I'm getting some weird values. The balance for the left channel is at ~70VDC and the right ~80VDC. The offset for both is hovering around -15VDC. I let the amp warm up first before measuring, and these values are the closest I can get them to zero before the pots inside stop turning. What could be the cause of this? Some parts needing replacement?


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> I've been checking the balance/offset on my srm-1/mk2 and I'm getting some weird values. The balance for the left channel is at ~70VDC and the right ~80VDC. The offset for both is hovering around -15VDC. I let the amp warm up first before measuring, and these values are the closest I can get them to zero before the pots inside stop turning. What could be the cause of this? Some parts needing replacement?


 
  I had similar issues.  I ended up doing a complete recap and resistor replacement.  what seemed to help the most was the change out of the 27kΩ resistors.  those are the 8 resistors that stick up above the board.  All of my resistors checked out fine, except those.  they were all low.  Others should chime in, but that is what happened to mine.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Can't say I didn't see this coming.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
> 
> *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
> 
> ...


----------



## Fishfood

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Oh I bet that sounds great.
> 
> What did he do to the amplifier to "outfit it" for the Quads?


 
   
  It's somewhere between the regular Atlas and the Magnum. It's a super beefed up power supply and better parts throughout.


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I had similar issues.  I ended up doing a complete recap and resistor replacement.  what seemed to help the most was the change out of the 27kΩ resistors.  those are the 8 resistors that stick up above the board.  All of my resistors checked out fine, except those.  they were all low.  Others should chime in, but that is what happened to mine.


 
   
  It seems like I have the same issue. Unless I'm just having a brainfart and measuring these 27kΩ resistors wrong they're showing only ~13.5kΩ across all of them. If I recall correctly the three largest caps were replaced before I bought it, so I don't think those are to blame.


----------



## Fishfood

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Well beside the Stax f-81 speakers )
> 
> Regards Georg


 
  If you can afford the amp it takes to run them


----------



## En_R

Will the quality of the transformer/voltage converter used affect sound quality? I have a 240v version of the Stax SRM-323S and I need to do some critical listening with it after my O2's arrive to test for any problems. I have a 50 Watt reverse voltage converter from Brookstone (110/120v in 220/240 out) but its quite old. Any input would be welcome.

Edit: the 323S is rated for 50/60 hertz and 30 watts.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
> 
> *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
> 
> ...


 

 Thats very good to hear.
   
  From what i have read so far, Liking SR009 for a HD800 lover is given. but coming from LCD3, i wasnt sure.
   
  its seems SR009 (and SR007 ) are the ultimate upgrades ( to some extent ).


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> If you can afford the amp it takes to run them


 

 Well, I use them in a very llittle room 15.5 square meters.  bought some time ago two Stax DA-80 mono-amplifiers which can make them sing. DA-100 or DMA x2 would be better but you're right.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## astrostar59

SRM-717 and SR-007s - Direct Connection to DAC or Via a Tubed Pre Amp?
   
  I find the direct / via pre connection puzzle quite fascinating. After hours of listening tests, I seem to prefer the connection with my Tubed pre amp in the mix.
   
  I have a theory for this. As direct the input impedance on the Stax is 50k ohms, and my Audio Note DAC (tubed) is designed to go into 100 k ohms. So by direct connection to the Stax SRM-717 effectively the DAC is starting to run out of juice and has a subtle but audible frequency shift, i.e. the bass is a bit weaker. By connecting via the Audio Note M3 preamp (tubed) is it sending a fuller signal to the Stax SRM-717 and the DAC is feeding a load it is happy with. 
   
  The sound is:
  1. Direct Connection - brighter, more treble emphasis, slightly better imaging and air, slightly more open. However less weight and dynamics, especially as the volume goes up on the SRM-717 (to louder than normal levels). treble and upper mid range sounds a little sterile and metallic.
  2. Pre Amp Connection - treble more balanced in scale to the mids and bass. Slight loss of transparency and stage width, but only noticable in A/B comparisons to the Direct Connection. Very organic and none fatiguing sound, can listen for hours, less hi-fi yet very realistic, and still having 90% of the air and 3D treble detail of the Direct connection.
   
  So, both connections have their pluses, and a few minuses. I can easily live long term with the Pre-amp connection, but find I was getting a bit irritated with the direct connection on 65% of recordings.
   
  This method would not work on the SR-0007t as this tubed unit would not be happy left at full volume or the volume bypassed as I am doing on the SRM-717.
   
  I think Stax or any manufacturer has a job on to design a system that will sell in domos (short listening). I prefer the direct connection for 15 minutes and would probably buy based on that sound as it is a bit more 'hi-fi' but after an hour or so, I would be searching out my better recorded CDs and ignoring the rest. I guess everything is a slight compromise. I bought the SR-007s to reduce my Lambda Nova Signatures treble emphasis and slight edge. I love the SR-007s, they are great for trance or classical, anything I throw at em!


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
> 
> *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
> 
> ...


 
   
  He he he he.... I knew this was coming! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Exactly my same experience and opinion. Welcome to the club!


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
> 
> *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Well, crap.
   
  I've never been that tempted to try a Stax rig, but knowing how closely my listening preferences align with Peter's tastes... crap.


----------



## sphinxvc

Congrats MH, and yes, that bass hertz so good.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Any Lambda model's pads will fit since Stax hasn't really changed the earcup design over the last 33 years (just the headband/arc), so the decision mostly lies in which pads you prefer the feel of.
> 
> I don't have any experience with the real leather pads used on some models, but I did notice that the SR-202's pads felt almost as stiff while the SR-303's were noticeably softer, so there is a difference even between pleather pads.


 
  I am tempted to get a nice set of leather pads, but I just cant validate $100 bucks for earpads.  I'm surprised that all the pads are interchangeable.  you would think they made some changes over the years.  I'll start looking into what I will spend.. ugh..


----------



## MorbidToaster

Honestly now that the seed of doubt is planted you may as well just buy them 009. It'll never get out of your head, and I can say from experience (and people telling me to) that you may as well just do it.
   
  Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Well, crap.
> 
> I've never been that tempted to try a Stax rig, but knowing how closely my listening preferences align with Peter's tastes... crap.


 
   
  EDIT: Holy crap typos.


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Honestly now that the seed of doubt if planted you may as well just buy them 009. It'll never get out of your hear, and I can say from experience (and people telling me to) that you may as well just do it.


 

 This is exactly the way my subconscious works... as soon as I start thinking about an upgrade, my current system begins to sound worse and worse... until I cave in, spend the $$$ and wonder how I could have possibly lived with that "other" setup for so long.
   
  I'm on the clock.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I can be curious about something and resist just fine at this level. I haven't been able to get myself to buy blind at 2k+, but as soon as I heard it. Done. Over. Had to have it.
   
  Similar situation with my source at this point. Heard a better one, now have to have it (well, something better).
   
  Having owned a setup almost exactly like the one you have now (Audeze can, HD800, LF, ~2k DAC) I can tell you you're in for a treat when you finally hear the 009. To me it was a significant step up from an already fantastic system.
   
  Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> This is exactly the way my subconscious works... as soon as I start thinking about an upgrade, my current system begins to sound worse and worse... until I cave in, spend the $$$ and wonder how I could have possibly lived with that "other" setup for so long.
> 
> I'm on the clock.


----------



## SoundFreaq

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I can be curious about something and resist just fine at this level. I haven't been able to get myself to buy blind at 2k+, but as soon as I heard it. Done. Over. Had to have it.
> 
> Similar situation with my source at this point. Heard a better one, now have to have it (well, something better).
> 
> Having owned a setup almost exactly like the one you have now (Audeze can, HD800, LF, ~2k DAC) I can tell you you're in for a treat when you finally hear the 009. To me it was a significant step up from an already fantastic system.


 
   
  It's for this reason that I am afraid of the implications of Saturday's meet. Something might happen when I hear the 009. Right now, I can only justify my system to myself. Hearing is believing.... or maybe not. So much love for the TH900 recently by so many respected people, I am not sure it will be so one-sided, but it could be. Some with Stax rigs are saying that they totally get the TH900 as being an end-game system... we shall see. I am thinking it will be a battle for me as I love lots of quality bass. The TH900 has great bass, the 009 even better, but less of it... Maybe the 009 will be so great it won't matter.


----------



## rgs9200m

In some ways to me, dynamics do things stats do not. I have a philosophical problem with saying one of stats or dynamics is better, as they excel in different areas,
  some very subtle in ways that you hear or detect with your brain in deep, impossible to express ways.
  So this 009 vs. Th900 debate can have no final resolution, even to one person.


----------



## SoundFreaq

Why I will keep both


----------



## David1961

I've got the 009 and have heard the TH900, and when I've got the spare money I'm getting a pair of TH900's.


----------



## AnakChan

I'm not too certain why there's a TH-900 and SR-009 debate. I have them both (TH-900 driven by the HP-A8 whilst the SR-009 by the SRM-727A) and at least for my liking, they compliment each other.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> The deep bass that I LOVE on the LCD-3s is there on my SR-009s with unbelievably better control (didn't think that was possible over the LCD-3s
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes I know you loved your LCD-3's. When I tried to tell you back in May about this amazing Stax combo SR-009/SRM-727 I don't think you wanted to even hear about it.
  Now you know why I bailed out on the LCD-3's and rolled the dice on are Stax system back in December. 
  As Musicman and others that have gotten this Stax system over the last 9 or so months, all say the same thing as you are now saying. 
   
  The only thing I would disagree on is what you are saying about the HD800's and being better on imaging, but then again I have the Realiser and AIX sound studio's PRIR's (copys of there 5.1/7.1 HQ sound systems).
   
  Enjoy and know that your new Stax system will only keep getting better, as you retrain your brain and ears to really start to focus on the detail and so much more.
   
  ss


----------



## Fishfood

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Well, I use them in a very llittle room 15.5 square meters.  bought some time ago two Stax DA-80 mono-amplifiers which can make them sing. DA-100 or DMA x2 would be better but you're right.
> 
> Regards Georg


 
  I bet they sound incredible. I wanted to get a DA80 for my Quads. Never could find one close by that was in good enough shape. It's a great amplifier!


----------



## Fishfood

Sorry if this has been asked before but I can't find it:
   
  Could someone explain Pre-Heat on my SRM-T1? Do I just click it for a few minutes before I turn on the power switch or do I leave the power switch on all the time and un-click the preheat when I'm done listening to turn off the tubes? It's confusing.
   
  Just had the new Toshiba matched pair biased and the unit sounds fantastic! Old tubes were distorting... was worried it was the headphone but it wasn't which was a huge relief. Next step is to get my turntable setup correctly in the new apartment to reduce the sibilance and then I'll be ready to really evaluate the Lambda Signatures.


----------



## SoundFreaq

anakchan said:


> I'm not too certain why there's a TH-900 and SR-009 debate. I have them both (TH-900 driven by the HP-A8 whilst the SR-009 by the SRM-727A) and at least for my liking, they compliment each other.




Seems the consensus of owners of both is that these two cans are complimentary. But how are they complimentary? What does each headphone excel at in your opinion?


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Seems the consensus of owners of both is that these two cans are complimentary. But how are they complimentary? What does each headphone excel at in your opinion?


 
   
  The resolution and transparency of the SR-009 is unsurpassed but the TH-900 has more...ahem...bass - bear in mind the amps I have driving them. No money for any BHSE or LL to see if the SR-009's bass can "increase" to the TH-900's level.
   
  Basically, if I'm listening to jazz/classical, etc. I'd pick the SR-009. If I'm listening to (and please don't laugh), Top Gun or Footloose (see the Kenny Loggins trend there ?), I think I'd rather pick the TH-900 for that genre. So with these two cans, it covers the range of genre I listen to.


----------



## SoundFreaq

Great insight, thank you sir. I'll have to report back after my mini-meet this weekend.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Well, crap.
> 
> I've never been that tempted to try a Stax rig, but knowing how closely my listening preferences align with Peter's tastes... crap.


 
   
  Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Honestly now that the seed of doubt is planted you may as well just buy them 009. It'll never get out of your head, and I can say from experience (and people telling me to) that you may as well just do it.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Holy crap typos.


 
   
   
  They are just that darn good! Listening to older Sabbath now (with Ozzy) and I am amazed at the versatility of these headphones. Simply amazed. I just wish they weren't $5k.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Why I will keep both


 
   
  Nice thinking! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Yes I know you loved your LCD-3's. When I tried to tell you back in May about this amazing Stax combo SR-009/SRM-727* I don't think you wanted to even hear about it.*
> Now you know why I bailed out on the LCD-3's and rolled the dice on are Stax system back in December.
> As Musicman and others that have gotten this Stax system over the last 9 or so months, all say the same thing as you are now saying.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Correction Peter, "my wallet" didn't want to hear about it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I still love my LCD-3s, but these are the real deal! 
   
  Just to clarify, I feel the HD800s offer "wider imaging" and a more expansive sound stage. But precision, depth belong to the SR-009s. But your Realiser could be at play too.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I think we all wish they weren't 5k. Except maybe Googleli. 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> They are just that darn good! Listening to older Sabbath now (with Ozzy) and I am amazed at the versatility of these headphones. Simply amazed. I just wish they weren't $5k.


----------



## sphinxvc

It's good to know that they can be sufficiently impressive off Stax amps, enough to sway you w/ your high caliber dynamic gear.  
  --
  One thing I don't understand is why doesn't Stax design amps w/ higher voltage output?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> It's somewhere between the regular Atlas and the Magnum. It's a super beefed up power supply and better parts throughout.


 
  Ahhh  I see.  Must sound wonderful.


----------



## grokit

milosz said:


> grokit said:
> 
> 
> > Is there a replacement material for the "disintegrating foam" that lined the inner earcup panel of vintage Lambdas etc.?
> ...






john buchanan said:


> The original foam that had been used since Lambdas were first invented was a part of the earpads - i.e. they are not separate. The newer ear pads come with a separate material insert that fits underneath the new pads. It appears to be far more durable.






don quichotte said:


> Yep. However, it sounds worse than the foam IMO. No free lunch...





Thanks for the replies guys. I have a new set of pads and found the included fabric liners, they fit right in and sound great -- OCD cured 

But I do have a question about actually replacing the pads. I lifted one up, and there is some gooey tacky adhesive. On the box the pads come in it says I can clean the adhesive residue with alcohol, I assume of the standard rubbing variety. Or benzine, which is petroleum ether according to Wikipedia. It specifically says NOT to use solvents like paint thinner. Would the product Goo Gone be suitable? It contains petroleum distillates, and I'm not sure if that makes it a solvent like paint thinner or more like the benzine. From my limited experience with adhesive removal, I would like to use the Goo Gone for the bulk of the removal and finish up with rubbing alcohol which evaporates. Any experienced advice would be quite helpful as I don't want to endanger my old but new to me Lambdas.


----------



## Don Quichotte

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Thanks for the replies guys. I have a new set of pads and found the included fabric liners, they fit right in and sound great -- OCD cured


 
  If you like the sound, then everything is OK.
  Regarding the old glue, I removed it from the old baffle by rubbing it with my fingers (dirty job, but hey! Stax phones safety first!) and finished indeed with a cloth with a bit of alcohol - but not too much so that there's no risk of it dripping off the baffle into the headphone.


----------



## grokit

macedonianhero said:


> *OK, its official! *Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
> 
> Now, looks like I've got three Pips (all my dynamic cans) and the SR009s are my new Gladys Knight! This is rather a surprising finding for me as I've never been really swayed enough to pick up a Stax rig (though the SR007 MKIs did have me humming and hawing for a while).
> 
> The deep bass that I LOVE on the LCD-3s is there on my SR-009s with unbelievably better control (didn't think that was possible over the LCD-3s :blink: ). Imaging is just under the HD800s, but precision of placement within that sound stage is un-matched. And detail retrieval...no other headphone comes close to them. I heard things on the SR-009s these past few days that none of my other headphones (past or present) has ever revealed. And mostly on recordings that I've known for over 20 - 25 years!





Belated congratulations Peter, glad you found your new Gladys! I guess this was somewhat predictable though :devil_face:





olias of sunhillow said:


> morbidtoaster said:
> 
> 
> > Honestly now that the seed of doubt if planted you may as well just buy them 009. It'll never get out of your hear, and I can say from experience (and people telling me to) that you may as well just do it.
> ...




I understand completely...

I don't think I want to hear an SR007/9 at this point, as there are still a few dynamic cans that I want to try. Namely the LCD3, PS1000, and TH900, maybe a W3000ANV. I feel so pedestrian with my lowly dynamic "flagships". 

Kidding! I still enjoy the heck out of my LCD2.1, HD800 and HE6, but I'm pretty sure that these new to me Lambda Pros have displaced the K1000 in my collection, as I really don't want to be a collector. If the headphone isn't in regular rotation, it has to go!

These Lambdas are impressive to me though. I would say that they don't take a back seat to any of the aforementioned dynamics, and considering what I paid (less than any of them including the energizer and extra pads), it was a spectacular bargain.

So I'm sure an Omega would spoil all of that for me, and become the new master of my headphone universe. And I am not ready for that h34r:

Maybe sometime down the road, when the SR0011 comes out... 
:veryevil:


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before but I can't find it:
> 
> Could someone explain Pre-Heat on my SRM-T1? Do I just click it for a few minutes before I turn on the power switch or do I leave the power switch on all the time and un-click the preheat when I'm done listening to turn off the tubes? It's confusing.
> 
> Just had the new Toshiba matched pair biased and the unit sounds fantastic! Old tubes were distorting... was worried it was the headphone but it wasn't which was a huge relief. Next step is to get my turntable setup correctly in the new apartment to reduce the sibilance and then I'll be ready to really evaluate the Lambda Signatures.


 
   
  This gives the heating element enough time to fully warm up and thus make the tube conductive before the high voltage is applied.  In theory this is supposed to prolong tube life by preventing cathode stripping but the voltages involved are really too low for that to happen.  Goes in the "doesn't do anything but doesn't hurt"category. 
   
  If you turn off the preheat function then the amp will turn off. 
   
  Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> One thing I don't understand is why doesn't Stax design amps w/ higher voltage output?


 
   
  Higher voltage isn't needed but what they do need is more current.  That means larger amps which are heavier and need more heatsink capability.  Ultimately this is all down to money and how much the market will take.  Then there is the small problem of them not making much money on the amps...


----------



## Fishfood

Quote: 





> If you turn off the preheat function then the amp will turn off.


 
   
  I'm sorry. I'm still unclear. If I turn the preheat off with the power switch pressed on, the light on the preheat still is glowing so it doesn't seem like the amp is off. Is it? I'd like to keep the amp on all the time as I do my other equipment because in my experience, things sound a lot better that way. With tube gear, it requires a separate switch for the tubes but I'm still unclear if the preheat switch is what that is for.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> This gives the heating element enough time to fully warm up and thus make the tube conductive before the high voltage is applied.  In theory this is supposed to prolong tube life by preventing cathode stripping but the voltages involved are really too low for that to happen.  Goes in the "doesn't do anything but doesn't hurt"category.
> 
> If you turn off the preheat function then the amp will turn off.
> 
> ...


 
  So spritzer, does this come down to a better, possibly external, power supply (maybe a tubed one)? I wonder what the current status of possible mods to, say, the 007t/ii is.
  How complicated would using an alternate, external power supply be? Could the existing tubes handle it?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Except for the stax speaker amplifiers, and other exotic stuff, stax has never used
  a regulated power supply in the electrostatic amplifiers. Not even the T2. Just
  a diode bridge and a capacitor (x2). Fully regulated power supplies do make
  a tremendous difference (diy T2) and take up lots of extra space. Pretty much
  double the physical size.
   
  OK, i take that back, the srm300 has a regulated power supply. It actually
  has to because its pushing the transistors right up to their voltage rating.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> I bet they sound incredible. I wanted to get a DA80 for my Quads. Never could find one close by that was in good enough shape. It's a great amplifier!


 
  Yes they do. But you have need quite some time to find the right position for them
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> I'm sorry. I'm still unclear. If I turn the preheat off with the power switch pressed on, the light on the preheat still is glowing so it doesn't seem like the amp is off. Is it? I'd like to keep the amp on all the time as I do my other equipment because in my experience, things sound a lot better that way. With tube gear, it requires a separate switch for the tubes but I'm still unclear if the preheat switch is what that is for.


 
   
  Like I said, if you turn off the preheat then the amp is off.  If only the preheat is pressed then only the filaments are active.  On the modern amps this is combined into one switch. 
   
  Leaving tube equipment on 24/7 is a very, very bad idea. 
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> So spritzer, does this come down to a better, possibly external, power supply (maybe a tubed one)? I wonder what the current status of possible mods to, say, the 007t/ii is.
> How complicated would using an alternate, external power supply be? Could the existing tubes handle it?


 
   
  The existing tubes don't even work as it is so that's a crap shoot but simply replacing the PSU will not help as much as changing the tubes and how they are loaded.  Then I'd work on the PSU but nothing would fit in that chassis


----------



## rgs9200m

Thanks Kevin. Yep, a good power supply is a relatively cheaper and simpler thing to produce, and I wonder why Stax wouldn't offer one as an option,
  since it would be a lot of bang for the buck.
  And thanks spritzer too. Actually, since their are so many Stax amps out there, I wonder why there isn't a bigger mod market out there,
  like there is for Sony, Oppo, and some other CD players.


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Nice thinking!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  It's about time you got the 009s! Now you need to get a better amp. The LL is great match with the 009.


----------



## loligagger

I remeasured the 27kOhm resistors and they all read 26.7kOhm give or take (not sure how I managed to get my earlier reading). A few other resistors seemed to measure low (R123-R126 measure ~230kOhm instead of 300kOhm). I took a few pics in case there's a list of caps/resistors/diodes for my particular version handy. What parts would be the most likely cause for the offset/balance to not adjust properly? Would it just be a good idea to replace the caps & any resistors that measure poorly?


----------



## kevin gilmore

you can't measure the resistors in circuit and get a real value.


----------



## loligagger

Yea, I was thinking that would be the case since the measurements didn't really add up (it's been a while since I've done circuitry work, forgive my rustiness). In any case, is there no obvious cause for the offset & balance to be as off as they are?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Belated congratulations Peter, glad you found your new Gladys! I guess this was somewhat predictable though


 
   
  Quote: 





purrin said:


> It's about time you got the 009s! Now you need to get a better amp. The LL is great match with the 009.


 
   
  Thanks fellas. Next up a kitchen reno...and maybe a LL during the next run next year this year. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I gotta say the SR727II is very good with them!


----------



## MorbidToaster

LL's a good choice. We'll see if Alex changes anything next run.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Thanks fellas. Next up a kitchen reno...and maybe a LL during the next run next year this year.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Clarkmc2

spritzer said:


> The existing tubes don't even work as it is so that's a crap shoot but simply replacing the PSU will not help as much as changing the tubes and how they are loaded.  Then I'd work on the PSU but nothing would fit in that chassis



Spritzer is being modest here. He has developed a nice mod for the tubes in the SRM007t series amps. It doesn't become a giant killer like the T2 or the BHSE, but it sounds a LOT nicer and does have a more authoritative output. I have the amp right here and I can say it is a very worthwhile mod.

If one has modest skills and doesn't have the hamfisted gene, it looks pretty easy to do. All you need is two matched pairs of an inexpensive NOS tube and some ordinary hookup wire. And a sharp scratchawl or a small handset tool, and some nerve. You get to cut some small PCB traces.


----------



## Magick Man

http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649021466-stax_sr007_mkii_electrostatic_earspeakers/

Good looking deal, shipping and fees included.


----------



## singh

thats a great deal. includes shipping and paypal, wow.
   
  if only i hadn't bought a violin 3 days back ( might still not stop me, though )


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> I remeasured the 27kOhm resistors and they all read 26.7kOhm give or take (not sure how I managed to get my earlier reading). A few other resistors seemed to measure low (R123-R126 measure ~230kOhm instead of 300kOhm). I took a few pics in case there's a list of caps/resistors/diodes for my particular version handy. What parts would be the most likely cause for the offset/balance to not adjust properly? Would it just be a good idea to replace the caps & any resistors that measure poorly?


 
   
  First thing, that bias supply is not stock and not sure how that one is supposed to work without the voltage doubler.  The second is the balance pot isn't the balance and the offset isn't the offset on this amp, they are reversed.  They that and see how you fare.


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> First thing, that bias supply is not stock and not sure how that one is supposed to work without the voltage doubler.  The second is the balance pot isn't the balance and the offset isn't the offset on this amp, they are reversed.  They that and see how you fare.


 
   
  Trying the pots in reverse worked like a charm, thanks. Also I could take more pics of the board in case a voltage doubler was just tucked away if you want. Or could it be that this is a srm-1/mk2 pro or PP in an old case?


----------



## Yuceka

One quick question: Will the Woo Audio GES good enough to drive the SR-007 MK2? What would be the best bang for the buck amp to drive them properly assuming that BHSE Hawaii or amps that cost the same are out of question?


----------



## Solude

Wise man once told me...
   
  Woo GES for tubes
   
  Stax 323S for solid state
   
  Now if you can get your hands on a KGSS or KGSSHV then the 323S is irrelevant


----------



## Elysian

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> One quick question: Will the Woo Audio GES good enough to drive the SR-007 MK2? What would be the best bang for the buck amp to drive them properly assuming that BHSE Hawaii or amps that cost the same are out of question?


 
   
  From my experience (as an owner of both) the GES is fine with the MK2, but I do recommend a modest tube upgrade for the GES (Mullard reissue 12AX7 and Sylvania NOS 6S4As).  The Mullards are audibly better than the Tung Sols.  I haven't tried the Gold Lion 12AX7 reissues.  The GES+MK2 pairing is still better than most LCD2.2 rigs.
   
  Reportedly the base KGSS is pretty decent with the MK2 but I haven't heard it, and it can be a wait to find a used unit.  If you've got DIY chops, the KGSSHV is worth investigating.
   
  Otherwise, like Solude said, GES for tubes, or the 323S for SS, for that price range.


----------



## Yuceka

SRM-313 won't cut it?


----------



## K_19

I don't have the MK2, just the MK1's... but I feel that my SRM-1 MKII Pro does fine with my MK2's. Then again I haven't heard anything better... but compared to my mid-fi dynamic rigs I don't feel the combo falls behind at all sonically (WA6SE/HD800/LCD-2), it's better in fact. SRM-1's are usually <$500 used.. it's likely one of the cheapest "usable amp" with the Omegas which is why I am mentioning it... but then again there's also the age factor to worry about with that amp... nonetheless, for such a cheap amp (relatively of course...) I feel quite satisfied.  Perhaps worth thinking about if you are thinking of going the KGSS/BHSE route eventually anyway and saving up, but need something in the meantime... which is what I'm doing.
   
  Otherwise, I've heard the best budget compromise currently in production is the 323s.


----------



## Yuceka

Haha I just sold my SRM-1/MK2 to a local head-fier here


----------



## jaycalgary

Best budget compromise is a KGSS considering  they are out of style and pop up more frequently second hand.I am on my first hour of listening to a older Headamp KGSS and I think it is a good step up from the 717 and the minimum bar for starting to show what the O2's are capable of. My Sigma pro's are sounding a lot better on the KGSS also.


----------



## CDPlayer

Anybody with a KGSS/KGSSHV and/or KGBH/BHSE here from around Melbourne (Australia)? I would love to see if I'm missing out on anything that would be audible/noticeable enough to me vs. my current combination..


----------



## jaycalgary

Not sure what your current set up is but if it is like mine the difference is enough that the 717 is in the closet. The KGSS has much better treble especially with the Sigmas's. With the 717 it was very easy to tell that my O2's had a lot more treble and the Sigma's sounded dull on the top end. With the KGSS that is not nearly as noticeable. The differences I notice is a much better front back sound stage and a bit wider also. The KGSS is also much more transparent and effects the artists use stand out much more than the 717. Hopefully leaving the KGSS on all the time is not a problem or shortens the amps lifespan much because there is no on off switch on the front.


----------



## nattonrice

Quote: 





elysian said:


> Reportedly the base KGSS is pretty decent with the MK2


 
   
   
  FWIW the KGSS is one of the best amps I've heard with the o2.


----------



## hpz

I thought I'd like to share with everyone my new additions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  A Stax SR-009 and WEE combo! 
  Never mind the messy room as the sound is fantastic, clean up can wait 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Macmini --> bitperfect --> Audiophilleo w/pure power --> Weiss DAC202/ Invicta Dac --> Parasound JC-1 Monoblocks --> WEE --> 009s


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> Trying the pots in reverse worked like a charm, thanks. Also I could take more pics of the board in case a voltage doubler was just tucked away if you want. Or could it be that this is a srm-1/mk2 pro or PP in an old case?


 
   
  The wiring isn't stock and the parts sure aren't so this is an after market mod.  Not sure what they wanted to accomplish with those resistors though.  Here is the full schematic for the SRM-1 Mk2:
   
  http://cdn.head-fi.org/2/26/26d933cd_srm-1_mk2_Schematic.jpg
   
  It's rather big... 
   
  This amp is a very early Mk2 with none of the P.P. parts.  It doesn't even the bonded input fets so probably early 1982.


----------



## K_19

Gotta say there is something very magical about these 007 MK1's...
   
  I'm usually not a long-period listener of music but with the MK1's, I'm listening for 3-4 hours straight. With HD800 and LCD-2's, no matter how enjoyable they are, my maximum listening sessions are 1 hour at a time.
   
  I think these are easily the least fatiguing headphones that I've ever had. Even after those 4 hours I feel some strain on my cheekbones (I tend to be very sensitive to clamping) but NOT in my ears.
   
  They have this uncanny ability to somehow become MORE comfortable as the time passes by. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I first put them on, for the first 20 minutes I feel the clamp, but then it slowly somehow melts in.
   
  The most interesting thing is that I still find the LCD-2's the more "fun" headphone, but with these MK1's, I seem to have more trouble putting it down. It's not really comfort related either...
   
  And all this is with what is admittingly a lacking amp... can't imagine how much better they'd get with a better amp!


----------



## spritzer

Quite a bit better.


----------



## K_19

Funds are being put aside, for sure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. A used 717, KGSS or enough savings for the BHSE, whatever comes first...


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Gotta say there is something very magical about these 007 MK1's...
> 
> I'm usually not a long-period listener of music but with the MK1's, I'm listening for 3-4 hours straight. With HD800 and LCD-2's, no matter how enjoyable they are, my maximum listening sessions are 1 hour at a time.
> 
> ...


 

 Yeah, I liked the sound too, but I also felt the cheekbone pressure too. These things definitely needed more padding. I don't know why Stax used such insubstantial pads on a flagship headphone.
  I sold mine just for comfort reasons. I heard you can get the 007 Mk 2 cushions, but I never checked this out. I sure would try and get these if I had them still.


----------



## K_19

Actually, I'd say its clamping is on par with or a bit less than my LCD-2.. which I'm quite used to and can tolerate. I do wish they clamp maybe a bit less but it's not in the "untolerably uncomfortable" territory as the HD650 was.  Now those I absolutely loved as well but sold only due to the comfort issues.


----------



## deadlylover

You can bend the metal arc on the 007 to make it clamp less if you prefer it that way. It seems like Stax designed it so you have to tailor the headphone to your specific melon. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I made mine have a feather light clamp, but I still get a good seal after fiddling around with the earpad orientation.


----------



## spritzer

The arcs were indeed designed to be bent and fitted to the owners head.


----------



## milosz

I've just gotten a pair of Mk 1's. For the time being I have a pair of Mk 2.5's as well.
   
  I'm not feeling the cheekbone pressure issue.  But then maybe my cheekbones have inherently more padding  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I think they are pretty comfortable.  Not "the most comfortable" as perhaps they should be at this price level.  After all, here in the US you can buy a serviceable used car for the money commanded by a new pair of SR-007's.  
   
  My two complaints about comfort:
   

 Leather, even butter-soft leather like these, makes my ears BOILING HOT after 30 minutes.  Not everyone likes velour, but I sure do.
 The hollow space inside the earcups could be a little larger, my pinnae feel a bit cramped in there.
   
  Aside from that, and compared to other top-of-the-line headphones they are pretty comfortable. They are pretty light in weight; the arc can be carefully bent to give 'just enough' pressure, and by turning the asymmetrical earpads you can achieve good comfort. Other high-end headphones pretty much all have comfort issues, too. My HE-6  are pretty comfy with their nice velour pads and all, but they are heavy. My Audeze are also quite heavy.  (Planar headphones need big magnets; magnets are heavy.  Planars need stiff frames, too.)  My Sennheiser HD-800's are more comfortable, except for being poked in the ear by their treble peak!  The ESP-950's are lighter, and more comfortable IMHO.  
   
  Not a comfort issue, but these Mk 1's seem to "Stax fart" a lot more than any other Stax set I've had.  Maybe they have a bit better seal.  I wonder if "fart relief" is the reason that Stax put a port in the Mk 2/2.5? Any time I move my head a bit in any axis I can get that familiar "cruckle" sound from one driver or the other.
   
  I must say that the sound of the Mk I  is very much to my liking.  There's a "smooth and extended neutrality" to the treble  that's quite nice, along with a midrange than reminds me of very good port wine somehow. There's a subtlety to the sound, it's not an instant "WOW!" hit-you-in-the-face "hi-fi" type experience.  The bass seems quite extended and utterly low in distortion as well.  I'm using them on an SRM-T1 for now, a more appropriate amplifier is a-building in my workshop.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Not a comfort issue, but these Mk 1's seem to "Stax fart" a lot more than any other Stax set I've had.


 
   
  When I had the 007mk1's they used to Stax fart, I now have the 009's and they fart aswell. 
   
  This farting though, only happens when I move my head quickly.


----------



## K_19

Yeah, my MK1's right side often farts when I move my jaw as well.
   
  Glad you're enjoying the MK1's milosz


----------



## David1961

I once had the 007mk1 along with the SRM-007t and was disappointed with how the 007 sounded driven by that amp, which is why it didn't bother me about using those two as part exchange last year for the source l have.  Over four months ago driven by my BHSE, l heard IanG's 007mk1's which he no longer has, and after hearing his 007mk1 with the BHSE, I'm still regretting letting the 007 I had go.


----------



## milosz

Since I had them both on hand for a few days, I did a direct comparison between my newly-acquired 007 Mk I's  and my (just sold) Mk 2.5's.
   
  I like the Mk I's better. There are differences in the sound but you can tell these are both variations on the same design.
   
  The Mk 2.5  has quite different sounding bass. There's more midbass, and perhaps somewhat less very low bass (20 Hz bass) - I would say that this gives a somewhat "warm" sounding bass to the Mk 2.5   In some cases with classical music I found this added warmth was a good thing.  For most of the music that I listen to, however, I did not care to this approach for bass sound.  I didn't like it, but I think some people might.
   
  There is also something different about the treble on the Mk 2.5 .  It doesn't sound as smooth as the Mk I.  Perhaps the Mk 2.5 is a little brighter? But I'm not sure I'd really say brighter.  But there is a difference.  Maybe it's a time-domain thing and not a frequency response thing?  A little more low-level high frequency ringing with the Mk 2.5?  I can't quite pin it down.  But the Mk I  sounds more neutral overall to my ears. It's almost as if the Mk I was voiced to be neutral, and the Mk 2.5  was voiced to be a little warm and then they did something to the treble to compliment the warmth.  
   
  I wouldn't say, just flat out, that the Mk I is a better headphone than the Mk 2.5 - I will say that I _LIKE_ the Mk I  better.  If possible, buyers should listen to both before making a purchase. You might like the Mk I or maybe you'll like the Mk 2 or the Mk 2.5, only way to tell is to listen.
   
  Thing is, that is really hard to do.
   
  Maybe at the next Can-Jam a listening station with all three can be set up.  It's an idea, anyway.


----------



## milosz

What's the difference between 307, 407,  & 507? What about the Original Lambdas?
   
  OK, so I see the 507 has some new kind of diaphragm material. And I know that the original Lambdas / Lambda Pro / Lamda Pro Signatures all had differing diaphragm thickness (with the Lambda Pro Signature being the thinnest) and also the amount of "stuffing" behind the driver varied, with the  Lambda Pro Signature having no damping material back there.  And then the "Nova" Lambdas came out with a different stator.
   
  But how do the 307 and 407 differ?  And how do they differ from the older Nova Lambdas?  I assume they use the same stator as the Novas did.
   
  And what exactly is "special" about the 507?
   
  Anybody know?
   
   
   
   
  --------------------------------------------------
  There is some info on these differences in http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stax_Earspeakers_Overview  and the links therefrom.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





milosz said:


> What's the difference between 307, 407,  & 507? What about the Original Lambdas?
> 
> OK, so I see the 507 has some new kind of diaphragm material. And I know that the original Lambdas / Lambda Pro / Lamda Pro Signatures all had differing diaphragm thickness (with the Lambda Pro Signature being the thinnest) and also the amount of "stuffing" behind the driver varied, with the  Lambda Pro Signature having no damping material back there.  And the the "Nova" Lambdas came out with a different stator.
> 
> ...


 
   
  sr507 - sr407 with premium parts, they share the same drivers. the SR507 has leather pads , with better ( sr009 like ) headband. the cable is also PCOCC silver coated cable ( similar to the one used in sr009 )


----------



## Amarphael

+ an improved driver assembly mounting mechanism and and a new diaphram material, At least on the 407/507, iirc.


----------



## Fishfood

Stax told me that my Lambda Signatures were very similar but certainly comparable to the 407s. Whether there's a sound difference between the 407 and 507 is up for debate. You'd have to be in the world where cables make a difference and in my experience that takes a pretty expensive front end and very expensive amplification.


----------



## K_19

Is there any specific tips on bending the metal bars on the 007's? Like which specific points to bend (at the top? near the cups?), where to hold, etc. Looking to experiment with very slightly reduced clamp and see how it gets.


----------



## milosz

I have a pair of (vintage?) Lambda Pro Signatures.  The thing I like about them is their incredible rendering of detail!  The thing I don't like about them is their incredible rendering of detail!
   





   
  Really, that's it in a nutshell.   They sound incredible, really. But not particularly _neutral.  _They have what some have called "Stax etch" and that is a good way to describe it.  It's not a searing treble glare like the Sennheiser HD800, but there's certainly some extra high frequency oomph.  Their strength is their overall Stax electrostatic goodness- very low distortion, transparency, great time-domain behavior.  The treble etch is both a plus and a minus.  I love listening to them, to hear all that detail otherwise hidden.  At the same time, it's not completely what one would call a _natural_ sound.  But you know, a lot of music these days is all electronic and with that music 'natural' doesn't really have the same meaning as with recordings of  acoustic instruments like classical music and so on.
   
  SO, they are great phones with a specific voice. In particular what I LIKE about that 'etch' is that it allows me to hear a lot of detail without going all the way over to actual ear pain the way the Sennheiser HD800s tend to for me.  It's treble coloration, but in just the right amount.
   
  I think they have good midrange and pretty good bass, too; and they are really comfortable.  
   
  I dig the way they look.  That funky Lambda 'earbox' look, which so amazes my non-audiophile friends. "Wow, those are _HEADPHONES_?!?!"
   
  I also had a pair of regular Lambda Pros at one time.  They were nice but just didn't do anything special, and since I had a pair of SR-007's, which did everything the Lambda Pro's did only better and with more neutrality, I just didn't see the need for them. I had put new earpads on them, and they were in really nice shape, I sold those Lambdas and I'm sure their new owner is enjoying them; but I kept the Lambda Signatures.


----------



## spritzer

In a nutshell, all the Lambdas are the same headphone with slight tweaks.  Something like the SR-202 could very well have been made in 1979 if not for the newer arc and pro bias.  The x07's change the assembly of the drivers but the basic building blocks are still the same.  Perhaps a list of what was actually changed in each version of the Lambdas?
   
  1979:  SR-Lambda introduced
  1982:  SR-Lambda Pro introduced with larger D/S gap and a 1.5um diaphragm but they were otherwise identical
  1987:  SR-Lambda Signature introduced with 1um diaphragm, pc-occ cable and brown color.  The drivers were undamped (but still retained the woven dust cover on the back leading to issues further on) and Stax changed the protective mesh on the ear side to make it stronger
  1992:  SR-Lambda Pro finally phased out and replaced with Pro Classic (or Spirit in Japan) which used the cheaper parts found on the Gamma models.  No damping on these either but otherwise identical to the Pro's. 
  1994:  Nova range which is the first proper redesign with 3 new models.  The major changes are the new, stronger arc assembly, new headpads, new earpad materials and new wide cable for the Signature.  The drivers were also revamped with Omega tech so 1.5um film again, solid dust covers on both sides and the Classic and Signature feature coated stators to minimize ringing.  These also feature new eco adhesives which will not hold up, ditto on the new earpads. 
  1999:  The numbers range and they are all still pretty much identical except they all get the 1.35um diaphragm and Stax mucks with the voicing to mixed reviews. 
  2009:  The limited edition which adds the new silver coated cable and leather eadpads. 
  Then we have the new range which is still pretty much the same except the driver frames and diaphragms.


----------



## jaycalgary

I have 3 pair of Lambda Signatures and none have a woven dust cover on the back. The dust cover on the back is the same material as on the front. I did see a pair of Lambda Sig on Ebay not too long ago where it looked like it had a woven back dust cover like the Lamba pro's have.


----------



## spritzer

They changed it at the end of the production run due to the excessive dust issues.


----------



## deadlylover

k_19 said:


> Is there any specific tips on bending the metal bars on the 007's? Like which specific points to bend (at the top? near the cups?), where to hold, etc. Looking to experiment with very slightly reduced clamp and see how it gets.


 
   
  I started at that little bend near where the arcs meet the earcups (I slightly straightened it out), but you can bend it anywhere really, I heard someone made their set have a sharp 'V' shape for the whole arc.
   
  You really have to just experiment to see what works for you, and because the cups don't swivel like most other headphones, you need to make sure you still get a good seal.
   
  Just do it slowly, it does take quite a little force to get them to bend, and be sure to be holding the arcs only, don't hold the cups when bending it.
   
  You should be able to reverse any changes you made, but if all hell breaks loose, you can always get a new arc assembly for not too much money.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> I started at that little bend near where the arcs meet the earcups (I slightly straightened it out), but you can bend it anywhere really, I heard someone made their set have a sharp 'V' shape for the whole arc.
> 
> You really have to just experiment to see what works for you, and because the cups don't swivel like most other headphones, you need to make sure you still get a good seal.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks for the tip! Will fiddle around with it a little bit tonight.
   
  Edit: Just played around with it at that little "bend" area, stretching it outwards... and now the clamping is noticeably lesser and it is now more comfortable! Just enough so that there is now about a 5mm~1cm gap between the bottom of the pads when it's held up (before the bending the pads would touch). Still a firm enough grip but less of a clamping pressure and there is no sonic changes that I hear.


----------



## Yuceka

I've asked this before but didn't get an answer. Would an SRM-313 be able to drive SR-007 MKII properly?


----------



## charliex

Better to go with a 717 or 727


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> I've asked this before but didn't get an answer. Would an SRM-313 be able to drive SR-007 MKII properly?


 
   
  Depends on what you mean by "properly,"
   
  SRM-313  will allow you to listen to music.  And since the SR-007's are good headphones, and the SRM-313 is a decent amplifier, it should sound pretty good.  It would very likely sound better than the SRM-313 would sound with one of the  Stax Lambda variants, because the SR-007 is widely acknowledged to be a better headphone than the Lambda.
   
  On an SRM-313 it would sound good, and better on a 717 or 727, but the SR-007 can sound even better. The SR-007's won't deliver all that they are capable of unless you use an amplifier capable of greater voltage swing with no sacrifice in slew rate.  In other words, a Blue Hawaii, KGSS, KGSSHV or T2.
   
  The last 15% increase in sound quality costs more than the first 85%, it's the curse of high end audio.


----------



## milosz

*Bass quality of SR-007  MK 1* - my observations.
   
  Now that I have a pair of the Mk 1's, I have some comments on their bass.
   
  They go very low.  They have pretty good "impact" or "slam" however you want to put it.  Not as impactful as better dynamic or planar headphones, but very good.  OK, for this kind of money you'd expect that.
   
  On top of these commendable qualities, there is something different about SR-007 bass, as compared to my other headphones.
   
  There is a kind of "roundness" to the bass - a "tuneful" quality that is a little more prominent in the 007's than in other headphones I have.  Perhaps a little mid-bass emphasis, coupled with very high resolution and accurate decay so that the little bit of extra mid bass doesn't create a "bloated" or "wooly" sound?  Or is it just that the rest of the audio spectrum is so evenly presented that concentrating on the bass line becomes easier, with the ear not being distracted by some shrill high frequency peak, midrange ringing or other flaw that my other headphones have?
   
  The bass has a very nice "organic" sound.  There is tautness, bass detail, texture and all of that. but there is complimentary warmth as well.
   
  I really like these headphones!  I like the MK 1's much more than my previous MK 2.5's.
   
  Note: using them on SRM-T1  for now, which sounds quite nice.  They seem easier to drive than the SR-007 Mk 2.5's that I had.  No doubt a better amp will sound even better....


----------



## johnwmclean

Nice impressions milosz I’m glad your enjoying the MK 1’s. Good luck with the T2.


----------



## dj nellie

Never thought I'd be able to say this...but please consider this post my application for entry into the Stax Country Club!  I ordered SR-009s from Pricejapan several weeks ago, when their website said they'd deliver in 1-2 weeks.  Turns out that the wait was going to be more like 5-6 weeks.  
   
  After 3 weeks of agonizing and hoping for word from Pricejapan, I noticed MH's post that Justin has the 009s in stock.  Pricejapan was willing to refund me my money, so I immediately placed an order with Justin and he shipped the same day.  Thanks for the heads up, MH!  Just wish I had seen your post earlier...
   
  My previous setup was a LF and LCD-3, which was a great rig but I sometimes found myself wanting more detail and clarity.  I'm hoping the 009s will provide a jump in transparency from the LCD-3 similar to what I experienced in the IEM world, when I went from customs like the JH16 and ES5 to the UERM.  I also felt that the LCD-3s could be a bit more forward in the midrange, which (based on reports and measurements) seems to be another thing the 009s should deliver.
   
  I'll be driving these with a Liquid Lightning.  Impressions on this amp seem to be scarce, but I had a great experience owning the LF and dealing with Alex, so when he told me that he had 1 left, I jumped all over it.  I have a small baby who will soon be running around the house, and having exposed, hot tubes just wasn't an option.  Who knows if the LL will be better than the other option I considered, the 727A, but there's no way to find out without taking a little leap of faith.  I did the same thing with the LF and was not at all disappointed.
   
  I'm really expecting this to be the ultimate end game rig, but it looks like that doesn't exist; it seems a decent number of people prefer the O2 MK1 to the 009.  I'll be happy if the 009 is the best headphone I've ever heard and I can find no major flaws with it.  Is that too much to ask for?


----------



## MorbidToaster

You won't be disappointed with the 009 or the LL. If you still plan on using the PWD mkII with that rig (which I happen to have right here) it'll sound fantastic.
   
  You'd better be ready though. If you listen to something mediocre it's going to sound_ bad. _The PWD doesn't do any favors, and neither do the rest of your new chain. 
   
  Guess I know who got the last LL then. 
   
  EDIT: There's a lot of impressions out there, too. 
   
  Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> I'm really expecting this to be the ultimate end game rig, but it looks like that doesn't exist; it seems a decent number of people prefer the O2 MK1 to the 009.  I'll be happy if the 009 is the best headphone I've ever heard and I can find no major flaws with it.  Is that too much to ask for?


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *dj nellie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> <snip>
> 
> ...


 
  Yes I have heard both the LL and SRD 727, I went with the SRD 727. 
  But that's not to say the LL is not a nice sounding amp with the 009's. 
  Yes Alex is a very nice man and I also really like my LF.
   
  Anyway I hope you know that Alex is redesigning both the LL and LF, I would suspect that its for this reason why I am seeing more used LF's for sale. 
   
  ss


----------



## MorbidToaster

sillysally said:


> Yes I have heard both the LL and SRD 727, I went with the SRD 727.
> But that's not to say the LL is not a nice sounding amp with the 009's.
> Yes Alex is a very nice man and I also really like my LF.
> 
> ...




It's mainly because people are making the jump to stats. Quite a few of those sales including mine stated the reason for the jump being stats. 

I'm looking forward to the redesigns/added features come spring.


----------



## purrin

Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> I'm really expecting this to be the ultimate end game rig, but it looks like that doesn't exist; it seems a decent number of people prefer the O2 MK1 to the 009.  I'll be happy if the 009 is the best headphone I've ever heard and I can find no major flaws with it.  Is that too much to ask for?


 
   
  Yes, that may be too much to ask. That being said, the LL+009 are great fit. (I preferred that combo with the 2.02 PWD2 firmware, not with the brighter 2.12 firmware) But it's going to be a completely different tone and presentation than the LCD3/LF. There's always the O2mk1, so you'll win either way. Be sure to let the 009s charge up. I've noticed they get more lush and less thin sounding.


----------



## astrostar59

Yes, I noticed some folk prefer the SR-007s K1s to the SR-009. I think it could be the source components. When you get to this level the source and the DAC play a HUGE part.
  Also the mains, the interconnects and the material i.e vinyl or CD. CD can be superb, or brutal and really bad. The Stax reveal it all it's glory, or warts!
   
  My own view, is if you own a good example SR-007, maybe look at the front end first? A really great tubed DAC can work wonders to those digital nasties, and bring realism to the signal. I am not saying SS DACs are no good, their are some great ones about, but I have found I prefer none over sampling tubed DACs. Plus it allows you to tweak the sound and upgrade components to your taste and system balance. Yes, that can be tweaked via computer based equalisation, but it is better if the signal is transmitted without maybe?
   
  Actually the extra cost of the SR-009 and an LL or BHSE would buy you a lot of transport and DAC.... really add some serious front end muscle.


----------



## purrin

DAC and other component synergies are crucial to the 009s. This even includes transport / software. I've heard the 009s sound completely different from different DACs using the same amp. They are extremely picky headphones, even more so than the HD800. I've heard a lot of DACs, and I don't think it's as simplistic as adding a NOS tubed DAC though. The issue is not digital nasties but rather tonal balance, which may be inter-related, but not usually not the case. I think most of the guys who can afford this stuff would have already thrown out their DACs (solid-state, tube, OS, NOS) if they had any hint of digititus.


----------



## MorbidToaster

My digital source upgrade list just keeps getting smaller and smaller. 

It's down to 3 now I think. 

Sim 380D
Cantana
Ayon CD-1SC

I've been less than impressed with the PWD 2 the last week I've been borrowing Cavalli's. I'd still get one if I could get a good deal though.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> Never thought I'd be able to say this...but please consider this post my application for entry into the Stax Country Club!  I ordered SR-009s from Pricejapan several weeks ago, when their website said they'd deliver in 1-2 weeks.  Turns out that the wait was going to be more like 5-6 weeks.
> 
> After 3 weeks of agonizing and hoping for word from Pricejapan, I noticed MH's post that Justin has the 009s in stock.  Pricejapan was willing to refund me my money, so I immediately placed an order with Justin and he shipped the same day.  Thanks for the heads up, MH!  Just wish I had seen your post earlier...
> 
> ...


 
  Hey congrats! You will love them. The SR-009s are fantastic and have displaced my beloved LCD-3s as my "go to" headphones.
   
  And dealing with HeadAmp/Justin was a very pleasurable experience. Justin's a great guy.


----------



## catscratch

It's pretty simple really, if you find the 009 too bright, get the 007 Mk1, and spend the rest on a BH or similar. Otherwise, enjoy. And be prepared to go through sources like a moviegoer goes through popcorn; at this level resolution is such that absolutely any change in upstream components will be obvious.

Milosz: if you like the 007's bass now, wait until you finish whatever monster amp you're building; bass is one of the biggest areas of improvement with the 007, along with clarity and dynamics. Everything you like about it will be that much better.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





catscratch said:


> Milosz: if you like the 007's bass now, wait until you finish whatever monster amp you're building; bass is one of the biggest areas of improvement with the 007, along with clarity and dynamics. Everything you like about it will be that much better.


 
   
  woo... I am decidedly patient (took almost 2 years to decide on the amp upgrade...) but this makes me want to have my BHSE at home already


----------



## mwilson

Congrats on the new setup. The LL/009 is a very good combo, and it was exactly what you describe about the LCD-3 that made me take the same path. I really enjoyed the LL/009 while I had them.
   
  Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> Never thought I'd be able to say this...but please consider this post my application for entry into the Stax Country Club!  I ordered SR-009s from Pricejapan several weeks ago, when their website said they'd deliver in 1-2 weeks.  Turns out that the wait was going to be more like 5-6 weeks.
> 
> After 3 weeks of agonizing and hoping for word from Pricejapan, I noticed MH's post that Justin has the 009s in stock.  Pricejapan was willing to refund me my money, so I immediately placed an order with Justin and he shipped the same day.  Thanks for the heads up, MH!  Just wish I had seen your post earlier...
> 
> ...


----------



## gilency

I use the KGSSHV/007 combo with cheap DACs and I am perfectly satisfied with the sound.
  To my ears and preferences is all digital not vinyl.  My LP'S have been gathering dust for years.
  Dont mean to disagree with many who like to upgrade to expensive sources or cables; just want to point out differences in opinion.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> My digital source upgrade list just keeps getting smaller and smaller.
> It's down to 3 now I think.
> Sim 380D
> Cantana
> ...


 
   
  Has the Ayon CD-1SC got a fully differential balanced output stage?


----------



## dj nellie

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I've been less than impressed with the PWD 2 the last week I've been borrowing Cavalli's. I'd still get one if I could get a good deal though.


 
   
  May I ask what you thought could be better about the PWD2?  Did you get to try it with various amps and headphones, or was it just with the 009s and LL that it seemed lackluster?
   
  One other major reason for selling my LCD-3s which I forgot to mention is comfort.  That's obviously very subjective, and the LCD-3 was definitely less bothersome than the LCD-2 due to softer pads and reduced clamping force.  But they still felt very heavy, and I was always very conscious of their grip on my face.  
   
  I'm hoping that the 009s will allow me to (for the most part) forget that they're there, so I can just kick back and enjoy the music.


----------



## MorbidToaster

On comfort...The 009s are much more comfortable than any Audeze can I've worn. They're #2 on my list (just under the TH900).
   
  I heard the PWD2 with an LF, LG (with many pairs of tubes), and LL. HD800, TH900, 009, HE500, and HE6. I actually still have it here (Alex hasn't needed it back yet). 
   
  Let me clarify that it wasn't 'lackluster'. It sounds good (without a doubt), but next to my 851C there isn't a ton of improvement (certainly not enough to warrant double the price MSRP wise). They're both fairly neutral and both have great detail. The PWD2 has a more airy sound, slightly more detail and if I could get one for a small amount more than what I could sell my 851C for used, I'd go for it. 
   
  Strangely enough the 851C is a more versatile unit than the PWD2, and I find the touchscreen somewhat obnoxious.
   
  EDIT: You also need to understand where I'm coming from on this DAC a bit, too. Ever since I started lurking here I've admired the PWD from afar. It's always been a piece of gear I wished to own someday. It's also been hyped up around here quite a bit, including by the local Head-fier who's Ayon CD-1 (10 years old now) I liked so much. He told me that the PWD2 'destroys' his CD-1. It was like expecting to see Jesus walk on water and instead watching him end up neck deep.
   
  Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> May I ask what you thought could be better about the PWD2?  Did you get to try it with various amps and headphones, or was it just with the 009s and LL that it seemed lackluster?
> 
> One other major reason for selling my LCD-3s which I forgot to mention is comfort.  That's obviously very subjective, and the LCD-3 was definitely less bothersome than the LCD-2 due to softer pads and reduced clamping force.  But they still felt very heavy, and I was always very conscious of their grip on my face.
> 
> I'm hoping that the 009s will allow me to (for the most part) forget that they're there, so I can just kick back and enjoy the music.


----------



## MorbidToaster

> Separate analog output stage for left and right channel


 
   
  That's from their site. That's about all it has. 
   
  Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> Has the Ayon CD-1SC got a fully differential balanced output stage?


----------



## johnwmclean

Curiously their more expensive DAC (Skylla II) is promoted as fully differential balanced. Which leads me to believe the CD-1SC is not.
  Since your LL is a differential amp, it would be a shame not to have the real deal. IMO.


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> It's mainly because people are making the jump to stats. Quite a few of those sales including mine stated the reason for the jump being stats.
> I'm looking forward to the redesigns/added features come spring.


 
   
  I have my LF and my SRD-727 side by side on my amp stand. I have no intention of selling my LF #23 and the rare quad set of nos tubes I have in that amp.. 
  I got my 009-727 combo about the 1st of the year when ED had a fairly nice sale going on. Anyway for me this stax combo is the end of the line.
  Although I must say I am a bit curious about the new redesigned LL, And imo Alex is a great guy to deal with.
   
  ss


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> It was like expecting to see Jesus walk on water and instead watching him end up neck deep.


 
   
  Well, neck deep in a 30 foot deep lake isn't so bad.


----------



## milosz

OOOhhh!  009s!   Wow!!!!


----------



## MorbidToaster

johnwmclean said:


> Curiously their more expensive DAC (Skylla II) is promoted as fully differential balanced. Which leads me to believe the CD-1SC is not.
> Since your LL is a differential amp, it would be a shame not to have the real deal. IMO.




If it sounds good, it sounds good. While I agree to an extent I really liked what I heard from Ayon.



headphoneaddict said:


> Well, neck deep in a 30 foot deep lake isn't so bad.




True, but it's still less impressive.


----------



## davejansen

Sorry for barging in here, but I've got a Stax-related question. I've tried looking for the answer, but given the somewhat odd combination I don't think it's here already. If it is, apologies.

After a botched buy I'm sitting here with half-working SR-40s and fully working SRD-4 (the right ear's membrane has some holes in it, presumably due to age). With high hopes of finally being able to try out electrostatics (well, electrets), I'm left yearning for.. Well, something.

Is it possible to use the STAX SR-003 with the SRD-4? The SRD-4 has a five-port jack (of which only four are wired up), and the SR-003 is listed as being compatible with all pro-level adapters, but I'm not sure if that means these two items are not compatible.

On a side note; where (assuming the 003 is not going to be compatible) can I find a replacement pair of SR-40s or, perhaps, SR-80s? eBay and the Head-fi selling corner seems awfully dry when it comes to Stax equipment, at least at this moment.

Many thanks in advance!

-Dave


----------



## spritzer

The SRD-4 doesn't have a bias supply so it only works for electrets.  Not much space in there to add one as well.


----------



## davejansen

Thanks a lot for your quick answer! I guess I should try to find a replacement pair to use with this adapter, or sell the adapter and find a different set. Kind of hard to find this stuff in Korea though


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> If it sounds good, it sounds good. While I agree to an extent I really liked what I heard from Ayon.


 
   
  Of course. I just thought I’d point it out, in case it was of any significance for what you were after.


----------



## jaycalgary

The down side staying in a oil sand work camp. I need a bigger night stand.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Yeah that looks pretty awful. :rolleyes:


----------



## Nanoframe

Hi everyone!
   
  I'm not sure if this the right place to post, but here goes!
   
  I have been using the SR-507/SRM-600 Limited combination for about a year now. The thing is, recent usage has seen the right channel sounding crackled and distorted until it eventually died. Thinking that is was the phones, I brought it down to the dealer where he plugged it into an SRM-323 and was found to be working perfectly fine.
   
  I now think the amp is faulty. Here's what I have done so far;
   
  1) Tried a different source. (iPhone 5 to amp, didnt work, right channel still dead, the original setup was an Audio-Gd Reference 5 fed by an Anedio U2 from the PC)
   
  2) Tried different interconnects, both SE and balanced, didnt work, right channel still dead.
   
  3) Tried swapping positions on the interconnects (left to right etc), right channel still dead.
   
  4) Tried swapping position of the tubes, right channel still dead, but the left channel started giving the same symptoms like the right before it died. (I did not re-bias the amp when I swapped positions, could that be why?)
   
  Could I have done anything that could have killed the amp? Did I miss anything out when troubleshooting?
   
  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
   
  Thank you!


----------



## n3rdling

Do you have a multimeter?


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> The down side staying in a oil sand work camp. I need a bigger night stand.


 
   
   
   
   
  Quote:


> Yeah that looks pretty awful.


 
   
   
   
  Stack needs to be at least 250% higher to get the "air".


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





nanoframe said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> I'm not sure if this the right place to post, but here goes!
> 
> ...


 
   
  Do you have the schematic?


----------



## Nanoframe

Thanks for the quick replies guys!
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Do you have a multimeter?


 
   
  Yup, I actually measured the amp by following this thread and got very similar readings, in fact the only difference was pin 3 for both sockets, where the readings differed by 1 or 2. I hope I'm not doing this wrong... 
  Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Do you have the schematic?


 
   
  Unfortunately I dont.  I'll try searching around to see if I can find it.
   
   
  EDIT: Got it! I didn't realise it was in the manual. My bad!


----------



## spritzer

That's not the schematic but you can find the near alternative by searching for the SRM-T1 schematic.  First thing to check with these amps are the LED's in the circuit and if they are all lit.  It also wouldn't hurt to get new tubes as if the right one had a short you probably killed the left channel swapping them.


----------



## Nanoframe

Thanks for the input spritzer! You can tell I'm not electronics savvy! 

I'll try looking for the schematics and try getting a replacement set of tubes. 

If I accidentally killed both channels, I'll have to replace the whole amp?

Thanks again for all the help!


----------



## spritzer

The amp should be repairable but it really depends on what happened.


----------



## Nanoframe

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The amp should be repairable but it really depends on what happened.


 
   
  Ok, thanks a lot for the help! Fingers crossed while I find the exact cause.


----------



## livewire

Spritzer, I have a SRM-252S that blew the right channel.
  I tracked it down to one of the little red LEDs, all of the transistors seemed to check out ok.
  Before I solder in a replacement, could you tell me what the forward voltage rating of the LED should be?


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Spritzer, I have a SRM-252S that blew the right channel.
> I tracked it down to one of the little red LEDs, all of the transistors seemed to check out ok.
> Before I solder in a replacement, could you tell me what the forward voltage rating of the LED should be?


 
   
  Can't you just measure the left channel?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Can't you just measure the left channel?


 
  I could but it would require that I de-solder the left channel LED to find it's "turn on" voltage.
  Dont want to check the live circuit for this characteristic because the voltage drop shown on the DMM
  may be influenced by other components in the circuit. Stax typically uses LEDs in the various stages of their amps
  to act as a voltage reference for the rest of the circuit. To maintain correct functionality, the LED's Vf rating is crucial.
  These LEDs are tiny, I am afraid by de-soldering the left channel, I could do damage to it.
   
  Besides, it is easier to ask an expert who has torn into many of the same amp for their knowledge!


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Spritzer, I have a SRM-252S that blew the right channel.
> I tracked it down to one of the little red LEDs, all of the transistors seemed to check out ok.
> Before I solder in a replacement, could you tell me what the forward voltage rating of the LED should be?


 
   
  did you check to see if the LED is actually bad?  its probably an indicator that something else in the circuit is wrong.  but if you want to try to replace it 1.7V is a pretty typical value.


----------



## livewire

Thanks Justin, I knew that 1.7V is a common value for this type of circuit,
  although I've seen KG use LEDs up to 2.2V in some of his designs.
  I just wanted to be sure what Stax specs for this part in the SRM-252 so as to avoid any channel balance issues.
   
  Yes the LED is bad, it's open. All the others were lit.
  I desoldered it and checked it with the DMM outside of the circuit.
  I got the dreaded "OL" when reading it both ways.
  Suspecting something else in the neighborhood might be borked as well,
  I checked all the transistors and resistors in that part of the circuit and compared
  the readings to the working left channel. All else seems A-OK.


----------



## spritzer

I've never seen a Stax schematic where the LED's are marked with a part number, just "red led" so 1.7V would be the best bet.


----------



## livewire

Thanks! ! 1.7V it is.


----------



## realmassy

Simple question for you guys: what would yoi choose ( and why) to drive some MK2? between a maxxed GES and a mod 727?


----------



## jaycalgary

I plugged O2 Mk1's into a Stax T1 and at low volumes it sounds really nice. I found it more enjoyable than the KGSS at these low volumes. It's all over when you want to rock though.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





realmassy said:


> Simple question for you guys: what would yoi choose ( and why) to drive some MK2? between a maxxed GES and a mod 727?


 
   
   
  I, too, would like to hear some opinions re:  this.
   
  And, more generally, I'd be curious what the Stax Mafia dons  think of the Woo electrostatic gear  vs. regular Stax amps and vs  the 'exotics'  i.e., Blue Hawaii, DIY T2, KGSS, KGSSHV  etc


----------



## madbull

I bought a 009. It's coming this week.
   
  For now all I have is a GES. Already have ordered a BHSE, but it should take a long time.
   
  Should I get me a 727? Is it better to drive the 009 than GES?


----------



## MorbidToaster

In this thread you'll most likely hear a lot more votes for the 727, but there's a few Head-fiers that really like their GES/009 combos.
   
  EDIT: That being said I'd probably still go 727.
   
  Quote: 





madbull said:


> I bought a 009. It's coming this week.
> 
> For now all I have is a GES. Already have ordered a BHSE, but it should take a long time.
> 
> Should I get me a 727? Is it better to drive the 009 than GES?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> In this thread you'll most likely hear a lot more votes for the 727, but there's a few Head-fiers that really like their GES/009 combos.
> 
> EDIT: That being said I'd probably still go 727.


 
  The SR009/727II combo is simply fantastic! Enough to dethrone my LCD-3/LF combo. Plenty of head room and they play really well together too. That said, I may pick up a new LL or BSHE in the spring when the next version is released.


----------



## MorbidToaster

It's be nice to hear what you think about the upgrade amps. I've still never heard a Stax amp with my 009s. I'm spoiled as I went straight to the LL. I listened as a combo and bought as a combo.
   
  Can't compare, but I can say the combo itself sounds amazing.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> The SR009/727II combo is simply fantastic! Enough to dethrone my LCD-3/LF combo. Plenty of head room and they play really well together too. That said, I may pick up a new LL or BSHE in the spring when the next version is released.


----------



## Amarphael

For those of us light on the tech-skillz but who are are still feeling like prying in and making sure their SRM-323s (and A/II previously, and 313 and 252 units i assume) bias supply is on-spot, among other things, Well the short answer is (courtesy of spritzer): "bias supply is just a voltage doubler with a bit shaven off in a divider it can only output 2*Vdc+ or not function at all". So if the amp's outputting signal then the Bias has to be correct. Now If your DMM has a true 10M input impedance then you can measure the last small film capacitor just before the brown 4.7M resitor (with the Chassis as ground), It shuld read ~330Vdc, so by 2*Vdc and a some shaved off by the bias restor it lands squarely at the 580V mark. That's it.


----------



## madbull

Thanks, MacedonianHero and MorbidToaster.


----------



## SoundFreaq

Need you guys' opinion. Thinking about picking up a 3/4/507 + 323S to begin my foray into stats, and work up. However, my main rig is a TH900 + Liquid fire. Is my proposed beginner Stax rig going to be a cool compliment? Or a complete waste of time? Should I just wait and skip the Stax journey by going 009 when the funds allow?


----------



## MorbidToaster

You've heard the 009 so you know what it sounds like compared to your TH900.
   
  That being said I quite liked the 404LE I heard in Dallas a month ago. The main thing you'll notice on even the 'lower' end stats is the speed vs the TH900. It's not subtle. 
   
  I'd say just go for the 009 when you can. MH bought 'em blind and loves them. You officially have more experience with them that he did. lol
  Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Need you guys' opinion. Thinking about picking up a 3/4/507 + 323S to begin my foray into stats, and work up. However, my main rig is a TH900 + Liquid fire. Is my proposed beginner Stax rig going to be a cool compliment? Or a complete waste of time? Should I just wait and skip the Stax journey by going 009 when the funds allow?


----------



## SoundFreaq

Ha indeed! I was just hoping that Stax speed and soundstage would be better for stuff like chamber music even at the lower Stax range. But it seems like I'd be going backward to a certain extent.


----------



## West726

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> You've heard the 009 so you know what it sounds like compared to your TH900.
> 
> That being said I quite liked the 404LE I heard in Dallas a month ago.


 
  I really enjoyed my 404LEs . . . until I got the 009s.  If you already know what the 009s sound like, you'll be disappointed with the excellent sound of the 404LEs.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





west726 said:


> I really enjoyed my 404LEs . . . until I got the 009s.  If you already know what the 009s sound like, you'll be disappointed with the excellent sound of the 404LEs.


 
   
  I have to agree.  I brought my 404LEs to the NJ/NY meet two years ago and listened to Alison Krauss ('down to the river') on Woo amp with my 404LE and 009.
  The 009 were so staggeringly good that I was going around pulling people over saying, "you have to listen to this".
   
  Of course, the cost/benefit ratio is a personal thing, but I was hooked.  Fortunately I've been able to sell some of my old stuff and paritially offset the staggeringly high cost of the 009...................but boy am I enjoying them..................it would be very hard to go back, but until I heard the 009 I  was quite happy and didn't know what I was missing.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Oh no I agree. I had my 009 in Dallas, but for the price I was impressed by the 404 LE.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Need you guys' opinion. Thinking about picking up a 3/4/507 + 323S to begin my foray into stats, and work up. However, my main rig is a TH900 + Liquid fire. Is my proposed beginner Stax rig going to be a cool compliment? Or a complete waste of time? Should I just wait and skip the Stax journey by going 009 when the funds allow?


 
   
  Get a used Stax combo here on the forums.  When you have the money for a 009 rig down the road you can always sell the combo for minimal loss, that way you have a Stax rig right away.  Any of the Lambda series headphones will sound very different from the TH900.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Get a used Stax combo here on the forums.  When you have the money for a 009 rig down the road you can always sell the combo for minimal loss, that way you have a Stax rig right away.  Any of the Lambda series headphones will sound very different from the TH900.


 
   
  exactly.............just don't listen to the 009 too often before you are close to having saved all you need for the 009.


----------



## SoundFreaq

That's exactly what I was planning to do, and hoping for that different sound. Just hoping the quality of that "lower end" Stax headphone won't leave me wanting too much.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





soundfreaq said:


> Ha indeed! I was just hoping that Stax speed and soundstage would be better for stuff like chamber music even at the lower Stax range. But it seems like I'd be going backward to a certain extent.


 
  Just food for thought, maybe the HD800s? They are amazing on the LF and a great contrast to the TH-900s. Yeah, I know, this is the Stax thread.


----------



## SoundFreaq

Good thought, and I did think of that too... that or the HE-500... but I really want to get away from these sounds and get to that super speed and transparency from the Stax. I know those other two do that very well (HD800/HE-500), but the Stax is just different, and I want to start down that path that leads me to the 009. I just don't know if any of the other Stax Lambda models are worth investing in along the way. 
   
  Edit: will they give me something special? MF describes the 507 as ethereal. That's nice, but how "ethereal" is the TH900. how will the magic, if any, be different or worth it? Or is TH900 the very best I can do until I get a 009, and the Stax journey is a waste of time?


----------



## NamelessPFG

I certainly haven't heard a TH900 (or even many headphones past AD700-tier), but no dynamic headphone I've heard sounds like any of the Stax I've tried (SR-Lambda, SR-202, and to a very limited and not-ideal extent, SR-303). I think it just has to do with the nature of electrostatic drivers; I'll know for sure if I ever get the chance to audition the Koss ESP/950, which many say that it sounds very much like an electrostatic, yet very *un*like Stax.
   
  Part of it is that "ethereal" sensation people describe, airiness beyond airiness. It's like the sound itself is just sort of floating, flowing into your eardrums, instead of being shoved in. On the flip side, this generally means less tactile impact that some people crave, especially bassheads. (The SR-009 seems to be a notable exception, often being touted as "Stax with impact", but I can't vouch for that myself because I've never heard them and certainly don't have the finances to buy them outright.)
   
  It also seems "effortless", like the drivers aren't struggling at all to reproduce the sound. That may explain the warnings to not turn the volume up to ear-damaging levels because of the lack of distortion at higher volumes...
   
  I can't say that it'll be better or worse, just different, and that you'll have to decide whether you prefer it or not. Just because I like the vintage SR-Lambda a lot doesn't mean I expect everyone else to, due to the subjective nature of this hobby.


----------



## Amarphael

^ Speaking about mid-tier dynamics with the ethereal/effortless trait, you should try a Sony SA5000, It outperforms the Sr-202 in resolving ability in the very fundamental frequencies (except maybe the very last bottom octave, dont remember) and is clearer with better defined headstage. The timbre though is much more natural with the 202, as well as the more spacious soundscape and yeah it's does the 'pull notes out of thin air' trick more convincingly. The SA5000 is just a step behind though. Amping was done with the KGSS and SPL Auditor which certainly helped to showcase the characteristics of each 'phones as close thru 'wire-with-gain' as possible. So it certainly isn,t myth regarding the effortlessness factor of even basic Stats compared to more expensive and inherently fast dynamics but i could live with any of them just well in this angle had i not been such a spoiled person that i am today


----------



## SoundFreaq

Lordy, just sold my SA5000. 
   
  Edit: I loved it's natural timbre. Most natural I have ever heard with strings. More natural than TH900.


----------



## astrostar59

If it were me, I would go for a second hand SR-007 Mk1 or Mk2. That's what I moved up from with the Lambda Nova Sig which is very close
  to the 407. I would say the difference is quite a big jump. And the 007s can be had for around 1,0 - 1.4 k US.
   
  Do you need a new amp to run the Stax? If not, you are really super ready for the 007s and later the 009s if you wanted that extra detail.
   
  Personally I am well happy with the bass and darker sound of the 007s, as was getting tired of the digital sound anyway, even though I run a tubed DAC.
  The 009s will need a seriously smooth front end if digital, or you will be leaving them on the side a bit too much....


----------



## astrostar59

Sorry, don't agree here. The sr-007s or 009s are a big jump from the 407 or 507 period. The Lambda clones are very transparent, and do sound great.
  BUT when you have the 007s or 009s, you will not want to go back. Also, I just don't get the folk out there who say I don't worry about bass response as I listen to choral or orchestral. There is a LOT of deep and atmospheric sound emanating from most of my classical recording, that really makes them more realistic. If it is there, why not hear it?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Gonna have to disagree. As someone who prefers a tube source I still think if the digital front end is good enough it doesn't really matter tubed or otherwise. Unless you consider a very detailed sound 'digital'.
   
  Looking forward to hearing a Resolution Audio Cantana soon and seeing how that works out. 
   
  Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> If it were me, I would go for a second hand SR-007 Mk1 or Mk2. That's what I moved up from with the Lambda Nova Sig which is very close
> to the 407. I would say the difference is quite a big jump. And the 007s can be had for around 1,0 - 1.4 k US.
> 
> Do you need a new amp to run the Stax? If not, you are really super ready for the 007s and later the 009s if you wanted that extra detail.
> ...


----------



## astrostar59

*Quote:*


> *The 009s will need a seriously smooth front end if digital, or you will be leaving them on the side a bit too much.... *





   
   
   
  I stand by that. Tubed for me is best, but SS can sound as good if it's the right gear. I think the problem may exist with Digital in general, i.e. the top end response is so ruthless. Vinyl, and before that Open Real is by nature a filter that calms those registers down. I am sure SS amp designers build in a similar filter, a circuit to do just that. Otherwise, it's like the human ear is stuffed into each (direct microphoned to digital mixing deck) instrument. Speakers are more forgiving than revealing headphones as well. The distance to the listener, the soft furnishings, acoustic panels, all doing the filter thing again. It is the same at a live concert, unless you are one of the people damaging your ears at the front. If it's not really clean, those 009s are going to be like using a Doctors Stethoscope on an old engine, they WILL reveal everything, and it won't be nice. It will mean you won't listen as often, or you will be on the upgrade obsession all over again. And, going back to the original tubes v SS conversation, maybe tubes are bringing organic and warmth, and maybe a tamed treble, to the table? Just like for some Vinyl still is.
   
  God knows? All I know is I have done SS and tubes, and right now, I am real happy with what I hear.
   
   
  On the headphones, what I am saying is the Lambdas are a very different sound balance to the 007s or 009s.
  Nobody can deny the Lambdas transparency, or sound stage width, or their success with vocal music for example.
  But to seriously come close to the lower registers, and get the solid drive in dynamics, it has to be the 007s or 009s. I know the price and build is at another level, but I wonder if the Lambdas weakness (aside form the treble etch) is because they have an open construction. The 007s for example seem to be a semi open chamber, in a way a bit like a semi closed speaker baffle.
  It could be the reason the bass is much stronger along with other aspects.
   
  All you guys are into the best sound possible, and to get that we have spend $$$s finding it. For me, I feel a bit of that path was ******** from manufacturers. I have found my way in the end by listening and not reading the adverts so much. I honestly believe the advice on this forum is worth lots more than reviews in the magazines. Don't you sometimes finish reading yet another gushing review, and read, 'I liked it so much it's a keeper' Yeah, get it for free for the glowing review? I makes me wonder....


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> If it were me, I would go for a second hand SR-007 Mk1 or Mk2. That's what I moved up from with the Lambda Nova Sig which is very close
> to the 407. I would say the difference is quite a big jump. And the 007s can be had for around 1,0 - 1.4 k US.
> 
> Do you need a new amp to run the Stax? If not, you are really super ready for the 007s and later the 009s if you wanted that extra detail.
> ...


 
  Nah, my 009s are smooth as silk and even a bit warm with my EMM cdp and a Stax 007t/ii amp.
  (I did need a Shunyata Anaconda VX power cord on the cd player though to add some needed warmth, so you are not entirely off the mark I have to concede, but some judicious cable selection,
  amp selection and CD player selection will deal with the 009s nicely.)


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> I stand by that. Tubed for me is best, but SS can sound as good if it's the right gear. I think the problem may exist with Digital in general, i.e. the top end response is so ruthless. Vinyl, and before that Open Real is by nature a filter that calms those registers down. I am sure SS amp designers build in a similar filter, a circuit to do just that. Otherwise, it's like the human ear is stuffed into each (direct microphoned to digital mixing deck) instrument. Speakers are more forgiving than revealing headphones as well. The distance to the listener, the soft furnishings, acoustic panels, all doing the filter thing again. It is the same at a live concert, unless you are one of the people damaging your ears at the front. If it's not really clean, those 009s are going to be like using a Doctors Stethoscope on an old engine, they WILL reveal everything, and it won't be nice. It will mean you won't listen as often, or you will be on the upgrade obsession all over again. And, going back to the original tubes v SS conversation, maybe tubes are bringing organic and warmth, and maybe a tamed treble, to the table? Just like for some Vinyl still is.
> 
> God knows? All I know is I have done SS and tubes, and right now, I am real happy with what I hear.
> 
> ...


 
  Its more about circuit design and topography, not the generalized tubes vs. ss. I've heard ss amps that are warm and "tubey" and tube amps that are tight, very clean and ss-ish. So it kinda depends....


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Its more about circuit design and topography, not the generalized tubes vs. ss. I've heard ss amps that are warm and "tubey" and tube amps that are tight, very clean and ss-ish. So it kinda depends....


 
   
   
  I agree with this as far as amplification is concerned SS and tube are both great, although tubes are considered the best voltage gain. 
  However I would never run a low voltage tube output stage from a DAC, it’s just not what tubes are cut out for.


----------



## gilency

johnwmclean said:


> I agree with this as far as amplification is concerned SS and tube are both great, although tubes are considered the best voltage gain.
> However I would never run a low voltage tube output stage from a DAC, it’s just not what tubes are cut out for.



Agree with you John, both are great and have pluses and minuses.
I like SS for their low maintenance and less heat production. 
Tubes are soo pretty though!.  but I'm in SoCal where the hot wheather makes tubes less appealing through out most of the year. 
As far as the so called digital etch of sound, it does not really exist with the right gear.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Agree with you John, both are great and have pluses and minuses.
> I like SS for their low maintenance and less heat production.
> Tubes are soo pretty though!.
> 
> ...


 
  The Apex Pinnacle (and perhaps other Apex amps, though I have not tried any) has very little ambient heat; it's like a small table lamp  with maybe a low watt, like 15-25 watt, bulb.
  Heat is totally not a concern.
  A lot of solid state amps generate more heat around them. And you get lots of tube goodness with with the Pinnacle. 
  Maintenance? The 2 PX4 bulbs have been going strong for 18 months now, and the single 6NS7 can easily go a year or more and is cheap to replace.
  It has less maintenance than that table lamp.
  Unless you have a tube amp with 10 tubes or strange vintage tubes or one that needs biasing (just a few do), maintenance worries on tube amps is an urban myth.


----------



## gilency

I use electrostatic headphones almost exclusively, so the Pinnacle is not something I would be interested. I do love the BHSE though, so nothing against tubes, and I will be building the Megatron when the boards become available.
As far as SS, I am also very content with my KGSSHV, so happy in fact, that I am building me a second one. No harshness, just sweet sound.


----------



## Solude

Yes and no.  Once you have solid tubes you are golden.  Getting silent running tubes on the other hand can be challenging.


----------



## Solude

Yes and no.  Once you have solid tubes you are golden.  Getting silent running tubes on the other hand can be challenging.


----------



## di_andrei

Trouble in paradise.
   
  My SR-007's (Mk1) have developed an intermittent problem, on the right channel there is an occasional, low volume, high pitched sound, sounds a little like capacitor squeal, or air being forced through a small hole in a balloon. This is not volume-dependent (same noise no matter if I turn the volume up or down) It goes away if I move the earcup around a little and I'm then able to listen for hours without the noise re-appearing. I'm 99% sure the problem is with the earcup itself and not something wrong in the energizer or further upstream.
   
  At the moment it's not bothering me too much but I would like to fix it or prevent it from getting worse if possible. Any ideas?
   
  Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





di_andrei said:


> Trouble in paradise.
> 
> My SR-007's (Mk1) have developed an intermittent problem, on the right channel there is an occasional, low volume, high pitched sound, sounds a little like capacitor squeal, or air being forced through a small hole in a balloon. This is not volume-dependent (same noise no matter if I turn the volume up or down) It goes away if I move the earcup around a little and I'm then able to listen for hours without the noise re-appearing. I'm 99% sure the problem is with the earcup itself and not something wrong in the energizer or further upstream.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Sounds like a dreaded "electrostatic driver squeal"  which I think comes from some dust in the driver.  Koss ESP-950's are said to develop this problem quite often, though mine never have.  With Koss ESP-950's the fix is simple- you send them back to the factory, they fix them or send you a new pair- Koss has a lifetime, no questions asked warranty on the ESP-950.  Stax offers a year, but beyond that you have to pay the Stax distributor in your country to fix them.  If your SR-007's are still in warranty, initiate a warranty repair IMMEDIATELY  is my suggestion. I don't think the driver will spontaneously repair itself and may get worse over time.
   
  I don't think it's easy to repair the driver yourself, and maybe it isn't even possible- I've heard that the drivers have to be assembled in a Class 10 cleanroom, which is not something you'd be likely to have at home.


----------



## livewire

*QUOTE: *"_Any ideas?"_
   
  Don't use a vacuum or compressed air to clean the dust out.
   
  If you send them for repair, most likely the driver will be replaced with
  the newer Mk2.5 driver. This is the sad fate of many aging Mk1s.
   
  Buy some new 009s. Problems solved, almost.


----------



## spritzer

The 007 drivers are pretty hard to clean of debris so I would just live with it.  I tried to clean a set yesterday and it got better but not perfect. 
   
  What I would do is to check the dust covers for holes.  They are very fragile so don't touch them but any holes can be patched with clear tape.


----------



## Nanoframe

Hello again everyone!
   
  Thanks to all that helped out with the problem with my amplifier. I got someone to look at it and he said the row of 30k-ohm resistors blew. He has since replaced them and all is well again. 
   
  Is this common? What are the possible causes that you can think of so that I can take the necessary precautions when I bring it home to use it again.
   
  Thanks again!


----------



## spritzer

All of them?  That would have to be a manufacturing flaw or all of the triodes died at the same time and did not cook the cathode resistors...


----------



## Nanoframe

spritzer said:


> All of them?  That would have to be a manufacturing flaw or all of the triodes died at the same time and did not cook the cathode resistors...




Yeah that was one of the reasons that were given. The tubes and the rest of the components were perfectly fine.

Well I guess I can rest easy and return to enjoying my music!


----------



## moti

Quote: 





plinden said:


> Check out EIF (koji@eifl.co.jp). I have always found Koji to be very compettitive & very helpfull.
> As far as s
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Hi,
  this is my first post to head-fi.org. I purchaced 100V SRM-006tA and would like to modify it 240V version, like plinden did above in his excellent post. I already have soldered blue and orange wires to transformer, but it is not clear for me what to do next. I found the following instructions:
   
  You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connection per voltage with either two or three different colors.

 240v configuration

 Gray + Purple
 AC power in + Blue

 220v configuration

 AC power in + Blue
 Green + Gray

 117v configuration

 Blue + Purple + AC power in
 White + Gray

 100v configuration

 AC power in + brown + green
 Gray + White
   
  Questions:
  1. There are no purple wire, is the orange wire -> purple
  2. To where to the board or wires should I connect blue and orange wires
  3. Should I remove or disconnect any 100V configuration transformer wires
  4. Do I need to solder anything to the main board
  5. The main fuse is 125V/1,5A. What is the correct value for 240V configuration


----------



## Elysian

Thanks for a fellow HFer, I finally got my hands on a 7xxxx SN MK1.  I like it quite a bit.
   
  I keep going between the MK1 and MK2, as I feel the MK1 pulls ahead on some music, while the MK2 on others.  This MK1 has much better bass and impact than I had remembered from other MK1s.  One person mentioned it might be because it's an earlier model than the SZ1 units.  I still need to log more time with this MK1, but it's a great all-rounder, and I hope it lasts as long (housed in an antistatic bag) as vintage Lambdas which are still going strong.  While the MK1 and MK2 headphones are very similar, the differences between the two are readily evident on the BHSE.
   
  What I'm not happy about are the headpad and earpads.  If I replace them with the MK2 headpad and earpads, will it compromise the sound?  The old MK1 earpads require some attention to ensure a good seal.


----------



## The Monkey

Not sure about the headband, but I've found the mk2 earpads on the mk1 absolutely do no harm and may help slightly because they seal a bit better/more easily for me.


----------



## K_19

Are the MKII pads more firmer (harder on the face?) and roomier than the MK1's? Judging by just the pictures that's how it seems like it would be, but just wondering. My MK1 pads are in great condition with no fit issues, but just for future reference.


----------



## El_Doug

on the contrary, the mk2 pads are softer, since they arent made of plastic like the mk1 pads
   
  Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Are the MKII pads more firmer (harder on the face?) and roomier than the MK1's? Judging by just the pictures that's how it seems like it would be, but just wondering. My MK1 pads are in great condition with no fit issues, but just for future reference.


----------



## rubenpp

> What I'm not happy about are the headpad and earpads.  If I replace them with the MK2 headpad and earpads, will it compromise the sound?


 
  I believe spritzer suggested that the mkII pads are indeed better .


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





moti said:


> Hi,
> this is my first post to head-fi.org. I purchaced 100V SRM-006tA and would like to modify it 240V version, like plinden did above in his excellent post. I already have soldered blue and orange wires to transformer, but it is not clear for me what to do next. I found the following instructions:
> 
> You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connection per voltage with either two or three different colors.
> ...


 
   
  This amp has the voltage selection on the main PCB so don't mess with the wires.  Orange is indeed purple (or rather should be purple) so solder it to the right hole on the PCB, ditto for the blue wire.  Now look at the 1-6 numbers on the PCB, these are the voltage selection with jumpers underneath the PCB.  For 100V 1,3,6 are populated but you need 2,5 for 240V. 
   
  1AT/250V fuse will work just fine.


----------



## moti

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> This amp has the voltage selection on the main PCB so don't mess with the wires.  Orange is indeed purple (or rather should be purple) so solder it to the right hole on the PCB, ditto for the blue wire.  Now look at the 1-6 numbers on the PCB, these are the voltage selection with jumpers underneath the PCB.  For 100V 1,3,6 are populated but you need 2,5 for 240V.
> 
> 1AT/250V fuse will work just fine.


 

 Thanks spritzer. Should I remove the 1,3 ja 6 jumpers before adding jumpers to 2 and 5 numbers?


----------



## spritzer

Yes, otherwise the amp will do some very strange things.


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 007 drivers are pretty hard to clean of debris so I would just live with it.  I tried to clean a set yesterday and it got better but not perfect.
> 
> What I would do is to check the dust covers for holes.  They are very fragile so don't touch them but any holes can be patched with clear tape.


 
  Thanks for the advice everyone - living with it sounds like the best option. I wasn't going to do anything crazy (like using a vacuum) - but I tried playing them at a louder volume for a few minutes and for now the squeal has gone away - if it was dust, perhaps it has dropped off the drivers.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

hey all, quick question about the srm1-mk2.  I was looking at the instructions on wikiphonia.  is it true that on the back of the unit, there is one input, and one output?  I thought they were both inputs.  they are not labeled in any way except L and R.


----------



## Amarphael

Stax normally configures the outer (closer to the edge) RCA as the input and the inner for parallel/loop out. Just them out, won't do any harm.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Stax normally configures the outer (closer to the edge) RCA as the input and the inner for parallel/loop out.  Just them out, won't do any harm.


 
  Ok, so only one input then?  I could have sworn I used the inner RCA as an in a while ago.  I dont think I understand what "parallel/loop out" means.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Ok, so only one input then?  I could have sworn I used the inner RCA as an in a while ago.  I dont think I understand what "parallel/loop out" means.


 
   
   
  parallel/loop out
   
  This means that the  2 RCA jacks are connected together.  The 2 LEFT jacks are connected together (they are in PARALLEL) and the 2 RIGHT jacks are also.  That means if you plug a cable from your DAC or phono preamp or whatever source into one jack, the signal appears on the other. The jacks are the same. The idea behind this:  you can connect your CD player to your SRM-1 Mk 2 and then use an RCS cable to connect the other jack on the SRM-1 MK 2 to feed that signal to your receiver for your speaker setup.  Those jacks are there to help you integrate the SRM-1 into your audio system.
   
  Here's a schematic of how those jacks are wired.  You can see they are just wired together.  This allows the signal to "pass through" so to speak, so that you can arrange to feed the signal to your SRM-1 and also to another component, like your speaker rig.  Or, in my case, I fed an SRM-T1  and then it was easy to compare the sound of the two amps, just had to move the headphones back and forth between the two.
   
  So it doesn't matter which one you connect your signal to.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Couldn't ask for a clearer description. Thank you.


----------



## Jup-Na-Keeeeeel

I'm looking to see if anyone would now if my SR-009 is having a critical issue. I'm hearing a faint static sound coming from the right driver. It happens when the amp is powered on with no source connected. The amp I'm running it through is a Woo Wes. The static sound appears on all input selections.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





milosz said:


> parallel/loop out
> 
> This means that the  2 RCA jacks are connected together.  The 2 LEFT jacks are connected together (they are in PARALLEL) and the 2 RIGHT jacks are also.  That means if you plug a cable from your DAC or phono preamp or whatever source into one jack, the signal appears on the other. The jacks are the same. The idea behind this:  you can connect your CD player to your SRM-1 Mk 2 and then use an RCS cable to connect the other jack on the SRM-1 MK 2 to feed that signal to your receiver for your speaker setup.  Those jacks are there to help you integrate the SRM-1 into your audio system.
> 
> ...


 
   
  A different question, but much earlier in this thread I think I read that using the loop out in Stax amps you have to turn on the other equipment or it changes the output impedence thus may change the sound... or something along those lines...  is this true? Perhaps it was just that particular amp or something... 006t I think it was.


----------



## astrostar59

Hey, not so fast. Your amp is a WOO Wes, so tubes. I had the exact same problem with my SR-007s fed by my DAC (tubed and my Pre (tubed).
   
  I spent quite a while trying to find the source of the static. It was a washy in and out sort of static, and only in the right channel. If it is similar sounding to that, and quite low volume I would say it is one of these:
   
  Dirty tube pins (clean carefully with de-oxit or fine rubbing compound, then with pure alcohol)
  Dirty RCA connections (clean them with pure alcohol)
  Poor case earthing (try a ground wire between the case of the amp and your pre amp or DAC
  Capacitor failing in your source (pre amp or WOO Wes) Doubt if its the WOO caps as new
  Old tubes (how many hours use?)
  Dry solder joint in your source (DAC or pre-amp if used) Would imagine the WOO is ok?
  Dirty Mains or radio noise (try at night when everyone else is asleep, and switch the fridge and any satellite TV boxes off)
   
  For my money, I would suspect the tube pins or tube itself. They can commonly emit noise. Try swopping the signal tubes round
  to the other channel. Also listen to the tubes after warm up (back ground hiss and noise) Does it happen less after warm up?
   
  My static was my Caps in my DAC. The old ones leaked, so I bought V-Teflons, which cured it almost. However, 200 hours later,
  when the caps were run in, it disappeared. Actually how new is your WOO Wes? If it's still running in 200 or less, it might be that,
  and thus should settle down after some more hours use.
   
  Hope this hlps.


----------



## NamelessPFG

eBay heads-up: SRM-T1, SR-Sigma, New SR-3!
   
  I figured I'd bring this one up in particular because those of you looking for a Sigma probably would have overlooked this one since it's not mentioned in the listing title.


----------



## jaycalgary

I would have let that go unmentioned and maybe someone could have got a deal on what looks like garbage.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I would have let that go unmentioned and maybe someone could have got a deal on what looks like garbage.


 
   
  A working SRM-T1 is _garbage?_


----------



## cat6man

I just had to share this since this is what it is really all about (in addition to the hokey pokey, of course)
   
  From a message I got yesterday, sender's name redacted.
   
   
  "I spent a portion of the weekend playing with the amp. I placed the tubes in the correct order
  as you described, then let them stabilize for 2 hours and then checked the bias.
   
  I then proceeded to listen to it with my 404LEs. The sound is absolutely
  amazing. Could not stop listening to various music. This is my first venture into electrostats.
  I have tried Grados and an HD 600, but have been most unimpressed with these headphones and head
  phones in general.
 The SRM T1S is............... working great.................. this ranks as one of the best purchases I have made for
  my audio listening. I am very happy with this."
   
  Once you hear Stax, you can never go bax


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> A different question, but much earlier in this thread I think I read that using the loop out in Stax amps you have to turn on the other equipment or it changes the output impedence thus may change the sound... or something along those lines...  is this true? Perhaps it was just that particular amp or something... 006t I think it was.


 

 When you series connect components then the impedance the source "sees" will change.  For most sources this shouldn't matter.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





milosz said:


> A working SRM-T1 is _garbage?_


 
   
  My thoughts exactly...the bundled Sigma and SR-3 are icing on that delicious cake.
   
  I only just noticed that the Sigma's headband seems to be broken, but if I'm not mistaken, any vintage (not Nova/numerical) Lambda headband/arc will fit, making replacement parts fairly easy to acquire.
   
  Still, I'm hoping that it's not a case of thinking that "everything that isn't the SR-007, SR-009, KGSSHV and BHSE is garbage!" because they're not the most expensive of Stax equipment. (As if anyone would call an amp that frequently sells for $500+ "cheap"...)


----------



## Tubebabe

I just acquired a Stax SR3 and SRD-5 on eBay so I'm joining the Head-Fi club now.    Unfortunately the "works great" e-Bay headphones do so only for the first 3 minutes or so and then the left ear starts slowing fading down in volume until the balance control on my preamp needs to eventually end at full rotation after about 10-15 minutes.
   
  I've tried pumping high volume pink noise through it overnight and that only made it sound distorted when I first tried it in the morning and then it faded out again.
   
  Is this a common problem? I'll likely change out the capacitors in the SRD-5 but I suspect the fading is from the SR3's.
   
  The fading out of the left earspeaker starts within 30 seconds of listening.
  The one minute of music does sound great though! If I follow the fading with the balance control on my preamp, I can get a full song and I am happy with the performance.
   
  I tried unplugging the SR3's and shorting all the pins to discharge residual charges and then plugged them back in; still weak on left ear.
   
  If I leave it for a few hours and come back, balance is now good and then starts to fade again as music is played.
   
  If I need to open up the SR3, does anyone know of any instructions on the web on how to do this properly and safely?
   
  Any suggestions from the vintage Stax guru's?
  Thanks in advance for any help you can give.


----------



## n3rdling

The Sigma also has an issue with the cable at the entry point.


----------



## jaycalgary

I was just going by what I saw in the pictures and it looks like they were found by a dumpster diver. The T1, Sigma etc are really good Stax products but those ones are abused and in about as poor of condition as I have ever seen.


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I was just going by what I saw in the pictures and it looks like they were found by a dumpster diver. The T1, Sigma etc are really good Stax products but those ones are abused and in about as poor of condition as I have ever seen.


 

 And they sold for $1025!


----------



## gurubhai

Can any of you guys point me to where I can find replacement earpads for my Peerless PMB500s :


----------



## Amarphael

I would've suggested that you try borrowing some from a Jecklin but... ummm... :/
   
  Btw, I've listed my Sony ECR-500 in the classifieds if anyone's interested.


----------



## spritzer

I doubt that anybody has these given the age and rarity of the headphones.


----------



## gurubhai

Ya, I kinda guessed so but I thought I should ask first. Who knows if someone is hiding a pair of these in his cupboard?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I have temporarily glued a pair of O2 pads on these & it actually sounds quite good with them but ofc looks absolutely hideous. Also I am curious how it would sound with the stock pads.
  I sent a mail to MB quart, let's see if they have any of the old stock left.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





gurubhai said:


> Ya, I kinda guessed so but I thought I should ask first. Who knows if someone is hiding a pair of these in his cupboard?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  MB Quart has gone through many hands and in and out of bankruptcy over the years.  That could mean that spare parts for their old / out of production stuff may be gone.
   
  Maybe you can fabricate something from a block or sheet of of foam.


----------



## madbull

Finally got my 009.
   
  They are really amazing.


----------



## stacker45

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Finally got my 009.
> 
> They are really amazing.


 
   
  Congratulation, i had the chance to hear Sophia Petterson's version of Hallelujah, at the Montréal HI-FI show on a pair of 007, and i tought that they sounded great, so i can only imagine how the 009 must sound, next show, i'll make sure to hear the 009, even if i have to wait in line, at least then maybe i'll know what all the fuss is about.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Finally got my 009.
> 
> They are really amazing.


 
  Congrats!
   
  Yes, yes they are amazing! I'm still amazed at the stuff I'm hearing that I wasn't able to with my previous headphones on some of my very favourite recordings with the SR-009s.


----------



## Jup-Na-Keeeeeel

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Hey, not so fast. Your amp is a WOO Wes, so tubes. I had the exact same problem with my SR-007s fed by my DAC (tubed and my Pre (tubed).
> 
> I spent quite a while trying to find the source of the static. It was a washy in and out sort of static, and only in the right channel. If it is similar sounding to that, and quite low volume I would say it is one of these:
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks for all the great suggestions. You were spot on when you described it as a "washy in and out sort of static".
   
  I have a Pefectwave mkII with some nice balanced xlr interconnects coming soon. I'm waiting for them first before I comb through & test. I'm doing the amp and cans absolutely no justice by feeding it an unbalanced signal from an Asus Xonar soundcard through some RCA cables.

 It also doesn't help that I can tell that my hearing is not as sharp in my right ear. I keep worrying myself that it's the channel/driver imbalance that plagued the sr-009. That doesn't seem to be the case because the difference is so minute, that I cannot tell if it's my hearing, the source recording, or the amp/headphone combo.
   
  Does anyone have a thorough description of what the channel imbalance sounds like or what it does to the sr-009?


----------



## dj nellie

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Finally got my 009.
> 
> They are really amazing.


 
   
  Do you have any thoughts about how the 009 and your O2 MKII compare?  I still have another week of waiting for my LL to arrive, so I'd love to hear more impressions from you or any other 009 and O2 owner. 
   
  Asr's recent comparison was anything but reassuring to someone who just bought the 009 blind.  I've only heard the O2 briefly at a meet--not sure which version, and it was driven by a tiny Stax amp (not sure which, it was an older model around the size of a DVD-RW drive).  But I was definitely impressed with the clarity I heard, though I found the bass weight a bit lacking.  It made me think of what a full-size version of my UERMs would sound like.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> Do you have any thoughts about how the 009 and your O2 MKII compare?  I still have another week of waiting for my LL to arrive, so I'd love to hear more impressions from you or any other 009 and O2 owner.
> 
> Asr's recent comparison was anything but reassuring to someone who just bought the 009 blind.  I've only heard the O2 briefly at a meet--not sure which version, and it was driven by a tiny Stax amp (not sure which, it was an older model around the size of a DVD-RW drive).  But I was definitely impressed with the clarity I heard, though I found the bass weight a bit lacking.  It made me think of what a full-size version of my UERMs would sound like.


 
   
  You won't be disappointed with the 009.  While some people prefer the O2, it's generally only O2 MK1 owners who have been using it as their primary headphone for many years and are very used to its sound.


----------



## milosz

Can anyone describe the differences between the 009 and 007 in some technical detail?  I imagine they use different drivers, but how exactly are the drivers different?  Also, I'm wondering if there is anything in the 009 or it's manufacture that makes it cost twice what a 007 costs, or is mostly  "exclusivity markup" charged by Stax that makes up the difference in price?


----------



## arnaud

Milosz, a search is in order. This has been discussed many times over already... Too lazy to search for you now


----------



## sphinxvc

The 2nd page of this article has a few details...not a comparison to 007, but info on 009 technology in general...
   
  http://www.avguide.com/review/stax-sr-009-electrostatic-earspeaker-playback-54?page=1
   
  Edit: (oh...looks like that's just a copy/paste from the stax.co.jp info page...)


----------



## trudyan

i have Sr-007 Mk1 and pair with 323s . I want to change my amp ,   i'm interested in BHSE and KGGSHV .  please give me a recommend. Thanks all


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Can anyone describe the differences between the 009 and 007 in some technical detail?  I imagine they use different drivers, but how exactly are the drivers different?  Also, I'm wondering if there is anything in the 009 or it's manufacture that makes it cost twice what a 007 costs, or is mostly  "exclusivity markup" charged by Stax that makes up the difference in price?


 
   
  I think it would be better to include the SR-Omega in the comparison as it was priced the same as the 007Mk1 (in Yen which is the only yardstick that matters here).  The SR-Omega has very expensive drivers but the rest of the headphone is far less special.  The drivers have a very fine gold plated copper mesh married to a resin structure at great precision with the dust covers and diaphragm supported on brass rings.  The whole assembly is slotted into a resin frame which makes up most of the earcup with the aluminum simply being a shell around it.  This makes servicing hard and there are some major corners cut (hello Lambda headband asked to support those housings...) to make up for the cost of the drivers. 
   
  The SR-007Mk1 has a far better housing and headband/arc design with better materials but the drivers are less OTT.  Now we have a fully milled aluminum cup with the driver fully enclosed in a resin frame which is bolted directly to cup for excellent transfer of energy.  The SR-Omega isn't nearly as well constructed in this regard which can be clearly heard at higher volume levels.  The headband is a work of art as it's very cheap to build yet allows unlimited adjustment.  Better materials all around (especially on the later units) but the drivers use PCB material for stators, diaphragm supports and the dust cover rings.  PCB's can be mass produced in large quantities at very high precision plus they are non resonant and very strong.  It also allows to place with openings and where they are placed.  Granted etching copper or brass does allow for this as well but they have their own issues. 
   
  With the 009 we have the marriage of these two design principles, expensive housing with a very expensive driver and naturally, double the price.  The housing follows the same principles as the SR-007, milled aluminum though I know they looked into cast magnesium for the frame but it was ultimately too expensive.  It's not as substantial as the 007 housing though.  The driver uses the same resin frame as the 007 but all the parts are high precision metal.  The stators use three pieces bonded together to make it very stiff and strong plus they looked into the thermal issues quite a bit (009 driven hard can dissipate close to 1W in heat, so much for electrostatics not needing power) as the stators could get warped a tiny bit which will increase distortion.  One has to remember just how tight the tolerances are here as the total stator to diaphragm gap for Pro bias is 0.5mm or 500um.  That's very, very small indeed...  As much as I hate the 009 headband it isn't cheap to make even if it is a bit flimsy.  The 009 design also almost bankrupted Stax so that's probably why they made them so bloody expensive.  Such a shame they can't live up to their potential though...


----------



## wuwhere

spritzer said:


> (snip)
> 
> The 009 design also almost bankrupted Stax so that's probably why they made them so bloody expensive.  Such a shame they can't live up to their potential though...




Tyll wrote about that here http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/chinese-speaker-maker-edifier-purchases-famous-electrostatic-headphone-maker-stax


----------



## madbull

I remember Jude's comments about the 009 on an episode of Head-fi TV, and I have to agree: with the 009 you'll hear things you never heard before.
   
  It's absolutely unbelieavable.
   
  Congrats to Stax.
   
  To my taste, this is the best headphone ever.


----------



## Talisker10

I've got a set of Stax SR-202s that need some refurbishment love. The foam inside the earpads has disintegrated, and the headband itself doesn't retain tension.
   
  Is there a reputable business or Stax-loving soul out there who can bring these back to ship shape? The US distributor Yama's Enterprises (or Accutech?) gets all kinds of loathing on this forum, so I wasn't keen to start with them. 
   
  I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area - happy to ship anywhere (though for these cans not sure it would be worth shiping outside the US).
   
  Many thanks for your guidance.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





talisker10 said:


> I've got a set of Stax SR-202s that need some refurbishment love. The foam inside the earpads has disintegrated, and the headband itself doesn't retain tension.
> 
> Is there a reputable business or Stax-loving soul out there who can bring these back to ship shape? The US distributor Yama's Enterprises (or Accutech?) gets all kinds of loathing on this forum, so I wasn't keen to start with them.
> 
> ...


 
  This isn't hard to do yourself.
  New pads http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/266
  New arc assembly http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/411
  The most tedious part is pulling the ear pads off (they are simply stuck on with a sticky double-sided tape) and cleaning the residual sticky material off the hard plastic cases to provide a clean bed for the new ear pads to be stuck on (the newer pads have a separate, non-decomposing type of earpad mesh).


----------



## Talisker10

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> This isn't hard to do yourself.
> New pads http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/266
> New arc assembly http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/411
> The most tedious part is pulling the ear pads off (they are simply stuck on with a sticky double-sided tape) and cleaning the residual sticky material off the hard plastic cases to provide a clean bed for the new ear pads to be stuck on (the newer pads have a separate, non-decomposing type of earpad mesh).


 
  Many thanks for the pointer - very much appreciated!


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Congrats!
> 
> Yes, yes they are amazing! I'm still amazed at the stuff I'm hearing that I wasn't able to with my previous headphones on some of my very favourite recordings with the SR-009s.


 
  I am glad you hear what I hear with the 009's. But for me what was the best surprise was getting the SRM-727 amp for under 2K new and how really well this amp drives the 009's. Now you know why I say this combo is the end of the line for me. 
   
  ss


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> I am glad you hear what I hear with the 009's. But for me what was the best surprise was getting the SRM-727 amp for under 2K new and how really well this amp drives the 009's.* Now you know why I say this combo is the end of the line for me. *
> 
> ss


 
  Hey Peter...agreed.


----------



## arnaud

The Omega 2 cup is cast aluminum isn't it? A large portion of SR009 parts are milled from aluminum blocs. Also, the 3 layers making each side of a stator are milled/etched before being fused under high temperature / high pressure process ensure a strong bond. From the video interview with the director of engineering, the cost of the 009 stator assembly is 5-10x higher than previous design because of the added steps (3 parts to etch instead of 1 for each stator, high pressure / temperature fusing). Furthermore, the yield is very poor (for the tight tolerancing you mention birgir) so it's no like they will be making cost savings as they sell these for a while. Benefits are a stiffer electrode overall while ensure minimal thickness over most of the surface to increase transparency.
   
  I will add to that it appears the 007 was designed under a more stringent cost enveloppe than the 009. The 009 design was aimed for a new category beyond omega 2 and to mark 50th anniversary of first earspeaker release, hence the decision to make a completely new electrode design.
   
   
  Here's the original interview video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=JP&hl=en&client=mv-google&v=wKTuBjI4Cp4&nomobile=1
  A longer interview here but no additional details that weren't originally provided apart from warranty upon product registration and 009 being easier to drive than previous units so usable with lower end stax amps: http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/13640147
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I think it would be better to include the SR-Omega in the comparison as it was priced the same as the 007Mk1 (in Yen which is the only yardstick that matters here).  The SR-Omega has very expensive drivers but the rest of the headphone is far less special.  The drivers have a very fine gold plated copper mesh married to a resin structure at great precision with the dust covers and diaphragm supported on brass rings.  The whole assembly is slotted into a resin frame which makes up most of the earcup with the aluminum simply being a shell around it.  This makes servicing hard and there are some major corners cut (hello Lambda headband asked to support those housings...) to make up for the cost of the drivers.
> 
> The SR-007Mk1 has a far better housing and headband/arc design with better materials but the drivers are less OTT.  Now we have a fully milled aluminum cup with the driver fully enclosed in a resin frame which is bolted directly to cup for excellent transfer of energy.  The SR-Omega isn't nearly as well constructed in this regard which can be clearly heard at higher volume levels.  The headband is a work of art as it's very cheap to build yet allows unlimited adjustment.  Better materials all around (especially on the later units) but the drivers use PCB material for stators, diaphragm supports and the dust cover rings.  PCB's can be mass produced in large quantities at very high precision plus they are non resonant and very strong.  It also allows to place with openings and where they are placed.  Granted etching copper or brass does allow for this as well but they have their own issues.
> 
> With the 009 we have the marriage of these two design principles, expensive housing with a very expensive driver and naturally, double the price.  The housing follows the same principles as the SR-007, milled aluminum though I know they looked into cast magnesium for the frame but it was ultimately too expensive.  It's not as substantial as the 007 housing though.  The driver uses the same resin frame as the 007 but all the parts are high precision metal.  The stators use three pieces bonded together to make it very stiff and strong plus they looked into the thermal issues quite a bit (009 driven hard can dissipate close to 1W in heat, so much for electrostatics not needing power) as the stators could get warped a tiny bit which will increase distortion.  One has to remember just how tight the tolerances are here as the total stator to diaphragm gap for Pro bias is 0.5mm or 500um.  That's very, very small indeed...  As much as I hate the 009 headband it isn't cheap to make even if it is a bit flimsy.  The 009 design also almost bankrupted Stax so that's probably why they made them so bloody expensive.  Such a shame they can't live up to their potential though...


----------



## spritzer

You can see the machining marks on the Mk2 sets (the black contrasts them) so they are not cast.  The coating used on the Mk1's is very thick so it hides them nicely.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> SR-007Mk1 .... Better materials all around (especially on the later units)


 
   
   
  Do you know approx what serial number the "better materials"  began being used?  And better materials- which materials?  Stator 'boards'? - diaphragm material?- diaphragm coating?- dust cover material?
   
  I'd be curious as to how the SR-007 driver differs from Lambda series construction, too, in general terms.  Do Lambdas also use PCB material as stators?
   
  ----------
   
  Thanks Spritzer.  Lots of info in your post.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





talisker10 said:


> I've got a set of Stax SR-202s that need some refurbishment love. The foam inside the earpads has disintegrated, and the headband itself doesn't retain tension.
> 
> Is there a reputable business or Stax-loving soul out there who can bring these back to ship shape? The US distributor Yama's Enterprises (or Accutech?) gets all kinds of loathing on this forum, so I wasn't keen to start with them.
> 
> ...


 
  I've replaced earpads on a couple of pair of Lambdas.  There are some tricks.  First is to clean off all the old adhesive. The earpads are just stuck on with a film of sticky stickum. So, you peel the old earpads off, using a little force, and that leaves a bunch of adhesive on the earcup face.  Some, you can scrape off with a razor.  But I think to get it all you need a solvent.  I used "Goof Off" solvent on cotton rags; paper towel will just come apart. First, I made a rag wet with the solvent then carefully dabbed solvent onto the old adhesive, and let it sit a minute to soften the adhesive.  Then I moved to a rag that was damp with solvent but not wet, you certainly don't want Goof-Off solvent pouring down into the driver itself.  After some rubbing, little additions of solvent, moving to new parts of the rag, etc, the face eventually gets 100% clean.  The earcup inner foam- which is usually perished - is either totally gone having crumbled to dust, or you can discard any of it that is left.  The new earpads come with a cloth inner cover which will last much better.
   
  Be careful placing the new earpads-  after you peel off the protective layer on the adhesive you get ONE CHANCE to place them properly.  Be aware that they have a front and a back- the earpads are thicker where they go behind your ear.


----------



## Nemeske88

Dear Forum(ers)!
   
  I am new to the STAX earspeakers and something caught my attention.
  I have a sr-303 and yesterday I was checking the ebay for other Lambdas when I found that the former Lambda models have a different diaphragm material ( or color or just a look )
See at this Picture  than my stax sr-303.
   
  Can anybody tell is there a difference in the diaphragm molding technology or it is just the ,,protecting net" that do not allow to see the oscillatory film at the 303s?
   
  Yes, this is very pointless question but I am so curious 
   
  Than you for your answer


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Dear Forum(ers)!
> 
> I am new to the STAX earspeakers and something caught my attention.
> I have a sr-303 and yesterday I was checking the ebay for other Lambdas when I found that the former Lambda models have a different diaphragm material ( or color or just a look )
> ...


 
   
  What you are seeing on that old Lambda is the metal mesh that keeps your ear and other things from actually touching the driver, which is further inside the earcup. It's just a protective screen that you see, not the driver.
   
  That old Lambda USED to have a thin sheet of black foam covering that metal screen.  Over the years, the plasticizers in the foam evaporate & oxidize and the foam crumbles to dust.  It just falls apart and is gone.  Your newer sr-303 either has the foam cover layer still intact or perhaps it uses the newer style of cover, which is made of black cloth.  All foam eventually falls apart, but the newer cloth covers should be very durable.
   
  The foam or cloth cover is mostly cosmetic and has no electrical or acoustical function.  I suppose it does absorb a little sound, but it's purpose is to look nice and add a little comfort.  Maybe it protects the works a little from dust too.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Do you know approx what serial number the "better materials"  began being used?  And better materials- which materials?  Stator 'boards'? - diaphragm material?- diaphragm coating?- dust cover material?
> 
> I'd be curious as to how the SR-007 driver differs from Lambda series construction, too, in general terms.  Do Lambdas also use PCB material as stators?
> 
> ...


 
   
  No idea when the change occurred but it was sometime around the 71xxx roll around.  Better materials include better faux leather on the arcs, better headband but they also also did some not so well thought out changes to the drivers.


----------



## K_19

Very interesting... Mine's #71009 so it's right near that uncertainty mark... my materials seem fine though and sounds great, so nothing more that I can ask for 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  BTW, any tips on best ways to take care of the default O2 MK1 pads? Would like to try MKII pads someday, but the default ones came to me in great shape and I'd like to keep it that way for as long as I can...


----------



## spritzer

Just clean the pads with mild soap and water.  I have one of the first 007's here with the stock pads and the leather is still fine.  The foam is beyond perished but it only lasts a few years so that is to be expected.


----------



## Tubebabe

Quote: 





tubebabe said:


> I just acquired a Stax SR3 and SRD-5 on eBay so I'm joining the Head-Fi club now.    Unfortunately the "works great" e-Bay headphones do so only for the first 3 minutes or so and then the left ear starts slowing fading down in volume until the balance control on my preamp needs to eventually end at full rotation after about 10-15 minutes.
> 
> I've tried pumping high volume pink noise through it overnight and that only made it sound distorted when I first tried it in the morning and then it faded out again.
> 
> ...


 
  I'm not feeling the love...    
  Seriously, is there anyone here familiar with SR-3's or did I make a mistake buying too old?  I'm "vintage" myself so I like my equipment to come from the same era.
  Is this a known problem with one earspeaker fading out each time it is used?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


spritzer said:


> The foam is beyond perished but it only lasts a few years so that is to be expected.


 
   
  If indeed the foam material has this short life-span, won't Stax refurbish the foam if one is to send them such a pair of pads? I mean, It's very nice thing to do from the perspective of recycling and good cutomer service (at a cost no doubt) for a premium product. I won't mind paying, say, 2/3 of the price of a new pair for such a service.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tubebabe said:


> I'm not feeling the love...
> Seriously, is there anyone here familiar with SR-3's or did I make a mistake buying too old?  I'm "vintage" myself so I like my equipment to come from the same era.
> Is this a known problem with one earspeaker fading out each time it is used?
> 
> Thanks.


 
  I would suspect that the bias board inside the SRD-5 energizer box has some faulty components
  that cause the problem you describe. If possible, I would test your SR-3 cans on another suitable
  amp or energizer box to verify if they are ok. DO NOT open the energizer box unless you are well versed
  on working with high voltage. The SRD-5 can hold a deadly charge inside even when it is turned off and unplugged.
   
  Most people "in the know" have these old (~20 to ~50 y/o) systems serviced - that is, updated with new components,
  electrolytic capacitors, diodes and possibly resistors before placing them into service again.
   
  Here are some links that may be of some interest:  
   
  http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/srd-5.htm  
   
  http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/new-sr-3.htm


----------



## agentsim

Looking for some STAX amping advice. I'm contemplating getting SR-009s or 007s. I've heard the 007s with a 007tII and enjoyed it very much.

I'm thinking about my amping options. Obviously I can go for the STAX 727 or 007tII. I'm also thinking about the Woo GES (the WES is out of my range ). Another option is to power them through the Woo WEE using my Jolida tube amp.

What do you think is the best amping choice for ~$2500? I'd prefer to go new, but I won't discount used amps if the performance is that much better.


----------



## madbull

Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.
   
  After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.
   
  That's what the 009 does with the songs you think you know the most.
   
  I'm almost speechless.


----------



## eltocliousus

Probably a large diversion to what is usually discussed in this thread, but I've recently gotten into some money, not an exceedingly large amount, but enough that I feel some could go towards luxuries, I'm currently using what I'd consider to be 'mid-fi', divulging on 'high-fi' having heard 'high-fi' and having it not sound as good as I was expecting, just different, my current situation is the EHP-O2 and a pair of heavily modfied T50RPs with its own little Stax.
   
  I've been thinking  about jumping for the SR-007 Mk2, skipping the high-end planar magnetics and dynamics (dynamic being the T1 and HD800, and neither of the designs or aesthetics grabbed me, I found the HD800 to sound dull on audition and actually preferred my current planar magnetic) and going right to the big-boys equipment, I don't think I'm in the right mindset to go right for STAX and feel as if I'm skipping some experience, but if it saves me money in the long run I suppose I'm all for it.
   
  The SR-007 Mk2, not being overly expensive (as in, it isn't $5,000!) sits at a price I would say is a bloody lot for a headphone, but not so much that I it's off-putting, even for a student as myself, would the SR-007 Mk2 and an amplifier around the $1,000-$1,500 range (currently looking at the WooAudio GES, but I'd love some suggestions as I know absolutely nothing about electrostatic at this point in time) be an end-game as owned by itself? I've heard some say that electrostatics are fantastic to have, but couldn't imagine owning an electrostatic by itself. For $4-5,000 all in with shipping/customs to England I wouldn't want to feel let down, and it's a difficult question to answer and I understand that, is it a realistic end-game (famous last words?) or should I make my way up slower, to avoid disappointment?


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

madbull said:


> Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.
> 
> After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.
> 
> ...




Funny, first time i heard my 009 with group yello song : tracklessdeep. About 0:10 there were a vocie that came out clearer then never before. 009 makes microdetails more obvious =)


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





eltocliousus said:


> The SR-007 Mk2, not being overly expensive (as in, it isn't $5,000!) sits at a price I would say is a bloody lot for a headphone, but not so much that I it's off-putting, even for a student as myself, would the SR-007 Mk2 and an amplifier around the $1,000-$1,500 range (currently looking at the WooAudio GES, but I'd love some suggestions as I know absolutely nothing about electrostatic at this point in time) be an end-game as owned by itself? I've heard some say that electrostatics are fantastic to have, but couldn't imagine owning an electrostatic by itself. For $4-5,000 all in with shipping/customs to England I wouldn't want to feel let down, and it's a difficult question to answer and I understand that, is it a realistic end-game (famous last words?) or should I make my way up slower, to avoid disappointment?


 
   
  I don't have as much experience with stats as some other members here but I did listen to the SR-007 (it was a Mk1) on both the GES (stock, no upgrades) and the 323S. I thought it was a bit better on the 323. There was a bit less romantic bloom with the lower mids but the bass hit harder on the 323S.
   
  So if you're looking to stay under 4 grand for the amp and headphone, keep the 323S in mind. it's quite good
   
  Oh, and don't forget to get a solid, good quality DAC to feed the amp. this might add another ~$500 to $1K easily


----------



## eltocliousus

I'll definitely keep the 323S bookmarked, it would be great to keep it all STAX other then the DAC, I've never been a big fan of the very large WooAudios and their tubes, thankyou!


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





eltocliousus said:


> I'll definitely keep the 323S bookmarked, it would be great to keep it all STAX other then the DAC, I've never been a big fan of the very large WooAudios and their tubes, thankyou!


 
   
  I'd recommend to explore other headphones before jumping with the higher end Stax gear because you don't know if you're going to like it. It is a bit of an acquired taste compared to something like the Audeze which is much more attractive at first. It took me close to 10 years to understand what Stax was about and I would say that a big part of the issue for not getting it till then was the music I was listening too and source (you can't just buy the phone / stax driver and call it a day).
   
_*Totally unrelated: stax interview is set for 12/12/12, welcoming questions from all until tomorrow: http://www.head-fi.org/t/634106/stax-factory-tour-and-interview-in-japan-approved-during-my-trip-to-tokyo-japan-december-6th-to-december-13th-2012/30#post_8899701*_


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I'd recommend to explore other headphones before jumping with the higher end Stax gear because you don't know if you're going to like it. It is a bit of an acquired taste compared to something like the Audeze which is much more attractive at first. It took me close to 10 years to understand what Stax was about and I would say that a big part of the issue for not getting it till then was the music I was listening too and source (you can't just buy the phone / stax driver and call it a day).
> 
> _*Totally unrelated: stax interview is set for 12/12/12, welcoming questions from all until tomorrow: http://www.head-fi.org/t/634106/stax-factory-tour-and-interview-in-japan-approved-during-my-trip-to-tokyo-japan-december-6th-to-december-13th-2012/30#post_8899701*_


 
   
  What would you recommend as a path? The problem I have is, I don't want to work my way up, spending a few thousand on other planars and dynamics, then finally on Stax, when I can skip all that money toting and go bam, straight to the Stax, where I'll definitely end up being at some point simply due to curiosity. My music preferences are vocal, acoustic, jazz, some classical, and electronic, I'm a lover of vocals, the realistic the better, nothing can sink me into a song as much as lush, airy, beautiful vocals. I enjoy imaging, detail/transparency.


----------



## Tubebabe

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I would suspect that the bias board inside the SRD-5 energizer box has some faulty components
> that cause the problem you describe. If possible, I would test your SR-3 cans on another suitable
> amp or energizer box to verify if they are ok. DO NOT open the energizer box unless you are well versed
> on working with high voltage. The SRD-5 can hold a deadly charge inside even when it is turned off and unplugged.
> ...


 
  Thanks a lot for the advice livewire.  In fact I was in the process of doing that already and just got an SRD-6 delivered today.
   
  Unfortunately the problem continues with the SRD-6 so now I know it is a problem with the SR-3 headphones.  For the engineering and scientifically inclined folks out there, here are the new data points:
   
  The SRD-6 running the SR-3's has exactly the same problem BUT it happens at a slower rate.  It takes about 3 songs before my balance control needs to swing all the way over to the left side in an attempt to stay balanced.  Most of the first song listened to sounds great and I though the problem was resolved after changing from the SRD-5.  However, it became apparent that the fading out is still the same but just slower with the passive SRD-6 than the electrically biased SRD-5.
   
  Turning off the power amp and then trying again in 10-15 minutes shows the SR-3 to have regained about 1/2 of the loss but not yet balanced (about 9 o'clock on the balance control instead of the < 7 o'clock where it was pinned to earlier).
   
  Thanks for the links to Ken Rockwell's site, I had already read all I could there but other folks with vintage Stax will find good reviews there.
   
  So, the bottom line seems to be the SR-3's need repairing.  What do I do now?


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





eltocliousus said:


> What would you recommend as a path? The problem I have is, I don't want to work my way up, spending a few thousand on other planars and dynamics, then finally on Stax, when I can skip all that money toting and go bam, straight to the Stax, where I'll definitely end up being at some point simply due to curiosity. My music preferences are vocal, acoustic, jazz, some classical, and electronic, I'm a lover of vocals, the realistic the better, nothing can sink me into a song as much as lush, airy, beautiful vocals. I enjoy imaging, detail/transparency.


 
   
  I personally think that the 407 and 323s will give you a pretty good idea about what stax can do for you, and it's also much better value for money than any of the other current models. If you get these used you won't lose more than shipping if you decide they are not for you. I've had both the 407 and the SR-007 and I don't think the difference is that great. (many will disagree, of course) but the 407 will give you that very specific "stax" sound quality and crispness.
   
  If you are considering the "big boys" in the stax lineup make an effort to try them first. You live in the UK, surely there will be a shop or a stax mafia member who will let you try the kit out. Again, many here have bought the high end stax models without trying, and the vast majority have not been disappointed.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





madbull said:


> Sorry for being a little off topic but I have to share this.
> 
> After a couple of decades listening to Layla from Derek and the Dominos as one of my favorite songs for zilions of times... I'm hearing the main riff in a way I've never heard before, with a third guitar "voice" standing out as clear as crystal. It just wasn't there before, not like this.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> Funny, first time i heard my 009 with group yello song : tracklessdeep. About 0:10 there were a vocie that came out clearer then never before. 009 makes microdetails more obvious =)


 
   
  Yep...Mirrors my experiences too. I'm hearing things with my SR-009s that my GS-X/HD800s somehow managed to miss on some of my favourite recordings.


----------



## livewire

Quote:Originally Posted by *Tubebabe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif

  So, the bottom line seems to be the SR-3's need repairing.  What do I do now?
   
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   

  I don't know of anyone who repairs these. Parts are beyond obsolete.
   
*You could -*
   
  - Try and re-sell them as damaged goods, prolly at a loss if anyone would touch them. 
   
  - Take a chance on another used SR-3 when one comes around. 
   
  - Buy newer Staxen that have repair support. 
   
  Got DIY skilz? Tear them apart yourself and attempt a repair.
  Most likely there is a series bias resistor inside connected to the diaphram terminal.
  I've seen pics where the connections are seriously corroded and need to be reconstructed.
  Or, the old resistor's value may have changed over time causing a severe reduction of bias charge.
  Many damaged components exhibit failure during warm-up.
   
  As for doing anything else such as messing with the electrode stack, few have gone there.
  It is do-able if one is willing to try.
  There are threads dedicated to building your own electrostat headphones.
  The resident guru is Chinasettawong (sp?)
   
  Maybe Spritzer will chime in.
  He has owned the SR-3 and just about every other Stax in existence, as well as torn them all apart.
  If anyone would know something, he would.


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





tubebabe said:


> Thanks a lot for the advice livewire.  In fact I was in the process of doing that already and just got an SRD-6 delivered today.
> 
> Unfortunately the problem continues with the SRD-6 so now I know it is a problem with the SR-3 headphones.  For the engineering and scientifically inclined folks out there, here are the new data points:
> 
> ...


 
  My SRD 3n/5n had an imbalance.  If the SR3 are similar, the electrodes are not soldered onto the leads inside the headset but crimped, and can be pulled loose through the cord.  I fixed mine by opening the headset with jewelers screwdrivers and re-crimping the leads.  Be sure to remember the position and sequence of assembly.


----------



## spritzer

The coating on the diaphragm is probably shot due to age and not much you can do about that except recoat it if you are up for that.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





tubebabe said:


> Thanks a lot for the advice livewire.  In fact I was in the process of doing that already and just got an SRD-6 delivered today.
> 
> Unfortunately the problem continues with the SRD-6 so now I know it is a problem with the SR-3 headphones.  For the engineering and scientifically inclined folks out there, here are the new data points:
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Hi!
   
  It seems very strange to me how your headphones would sound nice and have imbalanced sound later on.  Do you think that they sound equally soft at the beginning and after a while one would sound louder than the other?
   
  Given its age, it's very possible that the coating material has started to degrade.  If you think you can and want to recoat the diaphragm, I can guide you through that.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## zeong

I hope someone can help me. I just imported a STAX srm 323s and a pair of 307's and I need some advice on what step down transformer i will need if I live in the mid west. Thanks.


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





zeong said:


> I hope someone can help me. I just imported a STAX srm 323s and a pair of 307's and I need some advice on what step down transformer i will need if I live in the mid west. Thanks.


 

 Here's the one I got for my 100V Stax 323A:
http://www.inverters.com/products/Power-Bright-100W-Step-up-%26-down-Japan-Transformer.html
   
  It's been working great for me so far.


----------



## wuwhere

zeong said:


> I hope someone can help me. I just imported a STAX srm 323s and a pair of 307's and I need some advice on what step down transformer i will need if I live in the mid west. Thanks.




If that is 220vac then you need a step up transformer.


----------



## wuwhere

Sorry, I thought it was 220.

Also, Japan uses 50Hz and 60Hz. US is only 60Hz.


----------



## zeong

you will have to excuse me.  I have no experience with this. Will that transformer you showed me work?
   
  http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/166984241
  
  this is the item that I bought.


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





zeong said:


> you will have to excuse me.  I have no experience with this. Will that transformer you showed me work?
> 
> http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/166984241
> 
> this is the item that I bought.


 

 As far as I can tell, the transformer I have will work.
   
  The 323S accepts 50 or 60Hz and 100V. The transformer I have will accept 60Hz/120V from the wall and output 100V 60Hz to your 323S.
   
  I just looked at the specs on the Stax website:
  http://www.stax.co.jp/Japan/SRS3170_j.html
   
  BTW, that's a good price, assuming shipping/taxes aren't too high.


----------



## wuwhere

Can't it be rewired internally for 120vac?


----------



## zeong

120 dollars for shipping. I cried a little, about 1000 usd all together.


----------



## SBranson

New Stax owner here... Yay!!
   
  First time I heard stax was about a decade ago. I have always wanted Stax gear and recently I found the Lambda Signature phones with an SRM-T1 locally for what I think was a good deal.
   
  I just love these things on early music (ie, Jordi Savall or Christopher Hogwood) and small chamber groups.  Female vocals and guitar or piano is just glorious.
   
  They don't handle the big sounds such as orchestras all that well and the bass is a little soft.  What would be a good earspeaker to upgrade to that would work with this amp? Are any of the new ones a step up?  I'm thinking the SR-307 price wise but should I stretch to the SR-407?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## zeong

okay bought the transformer, everything will be here friday. How do I use the transformer? Where does the amp plug into?


----------



## di_andrei

Quote: 





zeong said:


> okay bought the transformer, everything will be here friday. How do I use the transformer? Where does the amp plug into?


 
  Amp plugs in to the 100V output on the transformer (the one on the left).


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





zeong said:


> okay bought the transformer, everything will be here friday. How do I use the transformer? Where does the amp plug into?


 

 Also, it should come set for 120V on the back, but double check that the switch on the back is set to 120V.
   
  Then plug the amp into the 100V socket on the front.
   
  Piece of  cake.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> New Stax owner here... Yay!!
> 
> First time I heard stax was about a decade ago. I have always wanted Stax gear and recently I found the Lambda Signature phones with an SRM-T1 locally for what I think was a good deal.
> 
> ...


 
  I haven't heard the 307 but I own the 407's which I upgraded with the 507 ear pads. From all the research I did before buying, the 407 and the 507 use the same driver but the difference is the headband, ear pads and the cable. Change the ear pads on the 407 and you have the same sound as the 507's for less. I have done a direct comparison and verified for myself that this is true. The reading I have done (and my dealer) claim the driver in the 307's are different. I use my upgraded 407's with the 006t for classical music mostly and I find the combination very good. I listen to a lot of small ensembles and chamber music and and I think it is a great combination with the modified 407's.


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I haven't heard the 307 but I own the 407's which I upgraded with the 507 ear pads. From all the research I did before buying, the 407 and the 507 use the same driver but the difference is the headband, ear pads and the cable. Change the ear pads on the 407 and you have the same sound as the 507's for less. I have done a direct comparison and verified for myself that this is true. The reading I have done (and my dealer) claim the driver in the 307's are different. I use my upgraded 407's with the 006t for classical music mostly and I find the combination very good. I listen to a lot of small ensembles and chamber music and and I think it is a great combination with the modified 407's.


 

 I have the 407's stock. How much difference in sound did the 507 pads make? What is the difference in sound? I am thinking about upgrading mine.


----------



## Tubebabe

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Hi!
> 
> It seems very strange to me how your headphones would sound nice and have imbalanced sound later on.  Do you think that they sound equally soft at the beginning and after a while one would sound louder than the other?
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks Wachara, yes I agree that it is very strange to have a completely repeatable situation where as one earspeaker sees a signal, it fades out over a few minutes.  That is why I am posting here because I thought that a unique symptom like that would have one definite cause that the experts could point to.  I would have thought that a degraded coating would give a consistently lower volume or at worst case start low and get louder as it acquired more charge.  I think I will have to look up some explanations of the construction and physics of the ear speaker.
   
  I am not eager to try and recoat the diaphram but if that is the answer then I will have to consider it.  The eBay seller has offered me a refund (though I have already bought the extra SRD-6 that I will have to keep) so that is my other option.  How difficult is the recoating process?  Any special skills, talents or equipment needed?
   
  Gratefully yours,
  Mark


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> New Stax owner here... Yay!!
> 
> First time I heard stax was about a decade ago. I have always wanted Stax gear and recently I found the Lambda Signature phones with an SRM-T1 locally for what I think was a good deal.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think the SR-007 mk I's sound pretty good on the SRM-T1.  The SR-007's have better bass and a more neutral overall sound than the Lambda Signatures. (I own both)
   
  Of course the SR-007's will sound even better on a BHSE, or KGSS / KGSSHV  but they sound quite good on the SRM-T1   SRM-T1  is really quite a respectable amp.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





darinf said:


> I have the 407's stock. How much difference in sound did the 507 pads make? What is the difference in sound? I am thinking about upgrading mine.


 
  You get improved bass performance and better instrument separation. This is not a night and day difference but it is clearly audible. You also get more comfortable ear pads. The depth of the leather ear pad is slightly more sallow than the plastic pads. My only complaint about the 407's with either ear pad is the comfort. I find that the ear pads press against my ears rather than comfortably riding around the ear. I could have wished for a bit more depth to the pads to keep them off the ear.


----------



## chinsettawong

tubebabe said:


> Thanks Wachara, yes I agree that it is very strange to have a completely repeatable situation where as one earspeaker sees a signal, it fades out over a few minutes.  That is why I am posting here because I thought that a unique symptom like that would have one definite cause that the experts could point to.  I would have thought that a degraded coating would give a consistently lower volume or at worst case start low and get louder as it acquired more charge.  I think I will have to look up some explanations of the construction and physics of the ear speaker.
> 
> I am not eager to try and recoat the diaphram but if that is the answer then I will have to consider it.  The eBay seller has offered me a refund (though I have already bought the extra SRD-6 that I will have to keep) so that is my other option.  How difficult is the recoating process?  Any special skills, talents or equipment needed?
> 
> ...




The coating is very easy, but I'm not sure how difficult it is to open up your drivers. I like to use anti-static cleaner to coat the diaphragm. The type of cleaner you use for cleaning your computer screen. I bought a small bottle from a local computer store. The gel type works better than liquid or spray type. All you do is to put a tiny drop of anti-static cleaner gel on the diaphragm and wipe the whole surface using a microfiber cloth. Wait till the coating is dried and they're ready to go.

You have to be very careful when working with the drivers. A small dust in there could cause unwanted squeal sound.

Wachara C.


----------



## Tubebabe

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> The coating is very easy, but I'm not sure how difficult it is to open up your drivers. I like to use anti-static cleaner to coat the diaphragm. The type of cleaner you use for cleaning your computer screen. I bought a small bottle from a local computer store. The gel type works better than liquid or spray type. All you do is to put a tiny drop of anti-static cleaner gel on the diaphragm and wipe the whole surface using a microfiber cloth. Wait till the coating is dried and they're ready to go.
> You have to be very careful when working with the drivers. A small dust in there could cause unwanted squeal sound.
> Wachara C.


 
   
  Khob khun mark krab! (please forgive my spelling attempt)
   
  I will have a look at the SR-3's when I have a chance this week to figure out how to rip them apart and still be able to reassemble them.  Your warning about the dust is appreciated, there will also be an unwanted squealling sound if I tear one of the diaphrams and it will take hours for my wife to shut me up!
   
  I see that you are from Bangkok, I have had the opportunity to visit Thailand about 8 times.  Once on a family vacation and 7 times on business but business is pleasure when you are in the Land of Smiles.    I've traveled to 53 countries and I tell people that Thailand is my favorite place to go for a vacation and relaxing.  The weather and beaches are nice but it is the people that make it #1 for me.  Your assistance with my problem strengthens my opinion about Thai folks.
   
  Take care,
  Mark


----------



## eltocliousus

Anyone know the difference between the brown SR-007 STAX pads and the black SR-007a STAX pads, or is it just a colour difference? The brown are $130, the black are $160.


----------



## El_Doug

Plastic vs Leather, iirc (I could be wrong)


----------



## LCfiner

I was reading some old posts and I understand that the brown ones are the real leather and the black ones are pleather. I couldn't find any posts on whether placing the black 007a pads on a mk1 changed the sound noticeably or had any difference in comfort.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





eltocliousus said:


> Anyone know the difference between the brown SR-007 STAX pads and the black SR-007a STAX pads, or is it just a colour difference? The brown are $130, the black are $160.


 
   
  Where are these for sale?


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> I was reading some old posts and I understand that the brown ones are the real leather and the black ones are pleather. I couldn't find any posts on whether placing the black 007a pads on a mk1 changed the sound noticeably or had any difference in comfort.


 
   
  I see, that's very strange as the black are more expensive and the newer pair, I would have expected the pleather to be cheaper, I have the brown and was wondering what I was missing.


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Where are these for sale?


 
   
   
  A few sellers on eBay sell them for a little cheaper ($115 and $140 respectively), but I was looking at the official staxusa website.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





tubebabe said:


> Khob khun mark krab! (please forgive my spelling attempt)
> 
> I will have a look at the SR-3's when I have a chance this week to figure out how to rip them apart and still be able to reassemble them.  Your warning about the dust is appreciated, there will also be an unwanted squealling sound if I tear one of the diaphrams and it will take hours for my wife to shut me up!
> 
> ...


 
   
  Sawasdee Krub Khun Mark,
   
  I'm glad to hear that you like Thailand.  Let me know when you'll come again next time.  Let's have a beer together.
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## n3rdling

lcfiner said:


> I was reading some old posts and I understand that the brown ones are the real leather and the black ones are pleather. I couldn't find any posts on whether placing the black 007a pads on a mk1 changed the sound noticeably or had any difference in comfort.



 
 It's the other way around


----------



## LCfiner

that would make more sense considering the price. But those older posts were from typically reliable posters so I thought they may have been correct which is why I brought it up (it did seem odd, though).


----------



## n3rdling

Actually I don't think it necessarily goes by color...I think I remember reading the mk1 pads are pleather and the mk2 pads are leather.


----------



## eltocliousus

I think it may say on the site that both black and brown could be synthetic, could be wrong though, other sellers say both the brown and black are "[size=small]high quality lambskin leather", and my browns definitely smell like real leather [/size]
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## Amarphael

*http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR007mk2.html*
*Specifications of SR-007MK2 Electrostatic Earspeakers*
*●Ear pads : Real leather (Lamb) used on a part coming into contact with the skin.*
*High-quality leather used for the surrounding part.*


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I think the SR-007 mk I's sound pretty good on the SRM-T1.  The SR-007's have better bass and a more neutral overall sound than the Lambda Signatures. (I own both)
> 
> Of course the SR-007's will sound even better on a BHSE, or KGSS / KGSSHV  but they sound quite good on the SRM-T1   SRM-T1  is really quite a respectable amp.


 
  Thanks.  A little out of my league but I'm definitely going to look at getting the 407s.


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> *http://www.stax.co.jp/Export/SR007mk2.html*
> *Specifications of SR-007MK2 Electrostatic Earspeakers*
> *●Ear pads : Real leather (Lamb) used on a part coming into contact with the skin.*
> *High-quality leather used for the surrounding part.*


 
   
  What about the brown, Mk1s?


----------



## TheAttorney

The brown Mk1 pads are also made of real leather (according to their accompanying Stax booklet). But not necessarily the same leather as for the Mk 2's.


----------



## pkshan

sbranson said:


> New Stax owner here... Yay!!
> 
> First time I heard stax was about a decade ago. I have always wanted Stax gear and recently I found the Lambda Signature phones with an SRM-T1 locally for what I think was a good deal.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Get a 407 or 507, I own both lambda signature & 507,
   
  507 sound ethereal,have better clarity, impact and extension,
  sound image is better, like "you are on the stage"
   
  The lambda signature have a warmish,natural tone,
  the mid basses & mids are very detailed,more musical, like "you are feeling the music"
   
  They complement each other very well.


----------



## SBranson

Thanks for the comparative comments.  I recently was in a shop listening to some of the big names and I still can't get over the clarity of these lambda sigs.  I think I will order the 407s tonight and look for the 507 pads for the upgrade.


----------



## jaycalgary

I disliked the 407's and 507 pads may even screw up the sound.


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I disliked the 407's and 507 pads may even screw up the sound.


 
   
  So... do you recommend something else?


----------



## milosz

The black pads are a little deeper, changes the volume of the earcup-seal area* and has an impact on bass response I believe.  Some people don't like the change.
   
   
  ---------------
  Yeah I know "changes the volume of the area"  is mixing 3d with 2d, but I think you get my meaning......


----------



## caseyse

Time to stop lurking and post something... 
   
  I use several Logitech Transporters fed with about 1,600 albums ripped to flac.  I mostly listen to music while on the computer in the evenings through a crappy (Bose) set of bookshelf speakers.  My bedroom and living room have Paradgm Signature 8 V.3 speakers which sound great, but I can't squeeze floor standing speakers into my little office, so I decided on a set of headphones. Having once purchased Stax headphones in 1990 (I don't recall the model, but they weren't anything special), I Googled Stax and landed on this forum 6+ months ago.  
   
  I've read all the posts of many of the threads in the forum and decided to purchase a set of 009s which had been on order for some 2 months before I took delivery (Elusive Disc.)  I came close to ordering a BHSE, but living in California with a room hosting two highly overclocked computers, gigabit managed switch, etc., I was reluctant to adding a few tubes that would probably push my little home/office room to convection oven heat levels during the summer months.  So, I decided on the LL, but I was about a week to late as they were all sold out.  I wasn't about to stare at my 009 cans until 04/13 when the next batch of LL amps will become available, so I purchased a 727II.  
   
  Now, I'm really enjoying the music like never before, but I think the music could sound better.  Now I don't have refined tastes for sound like many on this forum, but I know what I like, and I don't like the veil/haze I'm hearing in my music. I know it's not the headphones or amp.  The Transporter is an excellent transport with a quality DAC, but the DAC appears to be holding my 009s back, so a lot more forum reading....I quickly realized there's a DAC made for everyone's unique tastes, and there's no best DAC - if you like the sound, regardless of price, it can be the perfect DAC.
   
  Knowing my sound tastes clearly bias tight/analytical/clinical over bassy/warmth, and appreciating dCS' DAC design (an engineering sledgehammer relative to traditional DAC SoC implementations) I have a Dubussy DAC on order.  Whatever sound generated from the combination of '009 cans, 727II amp, Debussy DAC and XLR digital output from the Transporter, I'm going to love it.  I'll probably look at the LL again in April, but the 727II seems like a great amp, so it might make a good spare   
   
  The 009 headphones are fantastic and will be with me for a very, very long time.  It's really great to be able to listen to quality music when browsing through all the posts on this board.
   
  - Sean


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





caseyse said:


> Time to stop lurking and post something...
> 
> I use several Logitech Transporters fed with about 1,600 albums ripped to flac.  I mostly listen to music while on the computer in the evenings through a crappy (Bose) set of bookshelf speakers.  My bedroom and living room have Paradgm Signature 8 V.3 speakers which sound great, but I can't squeeze floor standing speakers into my little office, so I decided on a set of headphones.


 
  Great first post, Sean.
   
  Actually now that you have great headphones, you could listen to your Paradigm speakers in your office using a Smyth Realiser. Or PM if you want to do the same thing without having to buy a Realiser... That's how I listen to my floor standing speakers in my little office.


----------



## Nemeske88

Well, I've finally got my Lambda, but I am not quite sure about it's model type


----------



## arnaud

That's the lambda radio edition, highly sought after as best sounding stax evaaar, congrats!


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Well, I've finally got my Lambda, but I am not quite sure about it's model type


 
   
  Cool story


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Well, I've finally got my Lambda, but I am not quite sure about it's model type


 
  You should do the oxygen-free antenna mod on those, brings them to a whole new level.
   
  Also, try some transistor rolling - I have some NOS GE 2N107's I am selling for only $486.00 a piece.......


----------



## IPodPJ

caseyse said:


> Time to stop lurking and post something...
> 
> 
> Now, I'm really enjoying the music like never before, but I think the music could sound better.  Now I don't have refined tastes for sound like many on this forum, but I know what I like, and I don't like the veil/haze I'm hearing in my music. I know it's not the headphones or amp.  The Transporter is an excellent transport with a quality DAC, but the DAC appears to be holding my 009s back, so a lot more forum reading....I quickly realized there's a DAC made for everyone's unique tastes, and there's no best DAC - if you like the sound, regardless of price, it can be the perfect DAC.
> ...




Just a small bit of advice from someone who has had extensive modding done to his Transporter and uses it SOLELY as a transport (the entire analog section is disabled and numerous clocks replaced/added, trafos, regulator board, caps, etc....): I spoke to the designer of the Transporter, who has the same name as you, Sean. He stated that the AES/EBU output on the Transporter is the worst of any of them. It was added as an afterthought. The BNC output yields the best digital signal — his words, not mine. I used to use the AES output as you do but I switched after finding out that information, and while the difference is quite subtle it is there. So that's something you should likely address.


----------



## wolfetan44

I tried the Stax 307 with its amp. Wow, I honestly thought it sounded better than the SennheIser HD800. Now I need to get a Stax syste but I want the 407 but thats too expensive. Idea's?


----------



## n3rdling

Aren't the 307 and 407 essentially the same headphone?


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Aren't the 307 and 407 essentially the same headphone?


 
  Really?


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Aren't the 307 and 407 essentially the same headphone?


 
  I don't think so. I think 407 and 507 are using the same drivers but not 307 and 407


----------



## caseyse

Quote: 





ipodpj said:


> I spoke to the designer of the Transporter, who has the same name as you, Sean. He stated that the AES/EBU output on the Transporter is the worst of any of them. It was added as an afterthought. The BNC output yields the best digital signal — his words, not mine.


 
   
  So Sean Adams steered you away from the digital AES/EBU?  Being a digital interconnect, I suspect the issue relates to added jitter.  Thank you for the heads up, I'll plan to use the BNC output.
   
  I'm curious about the clock modification you mentioned.  The Transporter is advertised to have only 11 ps intrinsic jitter (rms) from its clock and 35 at its S/PDIF receiver.  I would have thought adding an external clock to your DAC and Transporter would offer an improvement, but was there a noticeable improvement by replacing the internal clock, which seems (on paper) to be very good?


----------



## rawrster

I'm thinking of moving to Stax and have a few questions. The SR009 would be the natural choice but it is out of my budget unless I want to save for a long time which I don't so the O2 is next is line. While it usually is not my signature I have heard it and do really like what I heard although that is off a much better rig than I can afford so I was thinking something of a more modest Stax rig.
   
  I have no desire right now to buy one of those amps made to build where the wait time is in the many months. In the future that wouldn't be an issue since I would have something to play. I was looking at the amps that HeadAmp sells which are the SRM-323S, SRM-727 II and lastly the SR-007t II. I have heard that the O2 is very picky in terms of what amp it plays well with so wondering which of the three amps plays well with the O2 but would also play well with the SR009 in the future if funds allow. Also yes I am aware that a BHSE would be preferable but that is pretty expensive and will take some time to save up so I want an amp that will be good with the O2 but at the same time be somewhat future proof in the sense that it will play well until a better amp is bought.
   
   
  Also since I am new to Stax can anyone explain what the pro and normal bias refers to? It looks like it just means different plugs or am I missing something.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> I'm thinking of moving to Stax and have a few questions. The SR009 would be the natural choice but it is out of my budget unless I want to save for a long time which I don't so the O2 is next is line. While it usually is not my signature I have heard it and do really like what I heard although that is off a much better rig than I can afford so I was thinking something of a more modest Stax rig.
> 
> I have no desire right now to buy one of those amps made to build where the wait time is in the many months. In the future that wouldn't be an issue since I would have something to play. I was looking at the amps that HeadAmp sells which are the SRM-323S, SRM-727 II and lastly the SR-007t II. I have heard that the O2 is very picky in terms of what amp it plays well with so wondering which of the three amps plays well with the O2 but would also play well with the SR009 in the future if funds allow. Also yes I am aware that a BHSE would be preferable but that is pretty expensive and will take some time to save up so I want an amp that will be good with the O2 but at the same time be somewhat future proof in the sense that it will play well until a better amp is bought.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Normal bias is a lower bias voltage, and it only applies to headphones that Stax hasn't made for decades (i think decades).


----------



## wuwhere

Normal bias is 6-pin 230v bias, Pro bias is 5-pin 580v bias.
   
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Stax_products


----------



## K_19

In their stock configuration, I believe the 323S is touted to be the best Stax amp match for the Omega 2's, at least for the MK1's, by many of the Mafia here.  I bought the 323S recently from Justin and feel that it matches decently with my Omega 2 MK1's, although it's not my final destination as an O2 amp or anything (that'd be KGSS, within what my budget allows anyway). If you can mod the 727 II's however, then that's a different story.  The 007t's apparently don't have enough voltage to satisfy the power hungry O2's.
   
  That's for the in-production amps btw. The discontinued 717's, if you can find them, also has a lot of good reviews as an Omega 2 amp.
   
  And as long as you are not thinking of getting some of the vintage Stax stuff, the bias thing isn't something you have to worry about much.


----------



## wolfetan44

Would a SR407 work well with the SRS-252 amp? Or would that be a very bad combo? I'm looking for a amp for the SR407 but I don't want to pay considerably more for the amp than the headphone.


----------



## n3rdling

That should work just fine.  It looks like the MSRP for the 252 is $500; I'd personally get a used SRM-T1 for that money.  It pairs very well with the Lambda family headphones.


----------



## moti

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> This amp has the voltage selection on the main PCB so don't mess with the wires.  Orange is indeed purple (or rather should be purple) so solder it to the right hole on the PCB, ditto for the blue wire.  Now look at the 1-6 numbers on the PCB, these are the voltage selection with jumpers underneath the PCB.  For 100V 1,3,6 are populated but you need 2,5 for 240V.
> 
> 1AT/250V fuse will work just fine.


 
   
  Thanks again you reply spritzer.
   
  Stax SRM-006tA blows the main fuse after 240V mod. I have no experience or knowledge did it worked well in 100V, but the original 125V fuse was fine. Any ideas what might be the problem? Is there a service manual available for 006tA?


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> In their stock configuration, I believe the 323S is touted to be the best Stax amp match for the Omega 2's, at least for the MK1's, by many of the Mafia here.  I bought the 323S recently from Justin and feel that it matches decently with my Omega 2 MK1's, although it's not my final destination as an O2 amp or anything (that'd be KGSS, within what my budget allows anyway). If you can mod the 727 II's however, then that's a different story.  The 007t's apparently don't have enough voltage to satisfy the power hungry O2's.
> 
> That's for the in-production amps btw. The discontinued 717's, if you can find them, also has a lot of good reviews as an Omega 2 amp.
> 
> And as long as you are not thinking of getting some of the vintage Stax stuff, the bias thing isn't something you have to worry about much.


 
   
  Does that go for the MK2 as well? i don't think I'll be getting the Mk1 unless I can find one in the FS. Unfortunately my modding skills are nonexistant but I do have to save up for all this so just want to have an idea on what exactly to save up for.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Aren't the 307 and 407 essentially the same headphone?


 
   
  They are minus the smaller capacitance of the wide cable. 
   
  Quote: 





justin w. said:


> Normal bias is a lower bias voltage, and it only applies to headphones that Stax hasn't made for decades (i think decades).


 
   
  The last ones were around 1990 so yeah, decades. 
   
  Quote: 





moti said:


> Thanks again you reply spritzer.
> 
> Stax SRM-006tA blows the main fuse after 240V mod. I have no experience or knowledge did it worked well in 100V, but the original 125V fuse was fine. Any ideas what might be the problem? Is there a service manual available for 006tA?


 
   
  There should be less current flowing at 240V so something is wrong.  No service manuals for any of the Stax stuff.


----------



## wolfetan44

So its not worth it saving up for the 407?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> Does that go for the MK2 as well? i don't think I'll be getting the Mk1 unless I can find one in the FS. Unfortunately my modding skills are nonexistant but I do have to save up for all this so just want to have an idea on what exactly to save up for.


 
   
  What I've from earlier in this thread is that you need an amp that has absolute tight control over the bass region for the MKII as they tend to be more loose and prominent in that region. I've never tried the MKII's so I can't say anything based on first hand experience... I'll let the more knowledgeable of the Mafia chime in on this instead.


----------



## wolfetan44

Would the Stax SR323s amp be able to drive the Stax 507 well?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Would the Stax SR323s amp be able to drive the Stax 507 well?


 
   
  The best official amp for 507 is SRM600LTD,
  sencond best I heard is SRM T1 (early version,you can see large red/brown resistors inside)
  T1S are good too,
   
  007tII price is much higher than T1,but it's the worst stax tube amps I've heard...
  I guess it's because it uses bad tubes
   
  didn't tried the SS amps yet


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The best official amp for 507 is SRM600LTD,
> sencond best I heard is SRM T1 (early version,you can see large red/brown resistors inside)
> T1S are good too,
> 
> ...


 
  I would rather not pay $600 more for the amp than the headphone..


----------



## padam

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Would the Stax SR323s amp be able to drive the Stax 507 well?


 
  Yes it drives it fine.
   
  Basically if you like the general brightness of the 507s (or compensate that with a warm DAC, EQ, etc.) you will probably like it with almost any amp.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





padam said:


> Yes it drives it fine.
> 
> Basically if you like the general brightness of the 507s (or compensate that with a warm DAC, EQ, etc.) you will probably like it with almost any amp.


 
  Sweet, is there a difference between the 307s, 407s, or the 507s? That are major?


----------



## padam

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Sweet, is there a difference between the 307s, 407s, or the 507s? That are major?


 
  Not major but there is a difference. Graben wrote earlier that he had thought the 307 was more edgy and the 407 was the sweet spot in the range.
  If the drivers are the same and yet they do sound different and the cable is negligible then the earpads might be a bit different.
  The leather earpads of the 507 are more comfortable and seal better.
  With leather earpads the drivers are slightly closer to the ears = more precise but slightly less airy sound


----------



## wolfetan44

[/quote]





padam said:


> Not major but there is a difference. Graben wrote earlier that he had thought the 307 was more edgy and the 407 was the sweet spot in the range.
> If the drivers are the same and yet they do sound different and the cable is negligible then the earpads might be a bit different.
> The leather earpads of the 507 are more comfortable and seal better.
> With leather earpads the drivers are slightly closer to the ears = more precise but slightly less airy sound


 The 407 is supposed to be better than the 507? That means I can get the SRM252s to drive it with?


----------



## arnaud

Come on, read the replies and use the search function alteady! It gets old to read the same questions over and over and over and over again.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Come on, read the replies and use the search function alteady! It gets old to read the same questions over and over and over and over again.


 
  Whats the best DAC for under $200?


----------



## stacker45

First i'd like to say that my native tongue is French, so please be indulgent.second, i just hope that my little story isn't too boring.
   
  Having read a few posts pertaining to Stax, i get the feeling that Stax owners get a lot of heat from peoples who seem to think that spending this much money on headphones is, let's just say questionable.My take on the matter is, if you have food in the fridge, clothes on your back, a roof over your head, and you pay your share of taxes, what you do with your disposable income is your buisness, and as far as i'm concerned, you shouldn't feel the need to justify yourself to anyone.
   
  Now, last spring i was at the Montréal Hi-Fi show, and i saw this guy sitting at a table with a pair of headphones on, and he really seemed to be enjoying what he was hearing, so i sat next to him and grabed a pair of my own and was introduced to Sofia Petterson's breath taking version of Hallelujah.After the song was over, me and the guy looked at each other and for a moment, we were both speechless and amazed by what we'd just heard.
   
  I have to admit, up until that moment at the show, i never gave Stax a second tought, probably due to the fact that they are a rare occurance,now, i knew that both pairs of headphones were Stax, but i didn't pay attention to the specific models, it was then that i found out that my new found friend had on the 009, while i had the 007 MK2, that being said, as good as the 007's sounded, i felt that they just got upstaged by miss Petterson's moving voice.
   
  Then i got home, still thinking about that ''Hallmark moment'' i just had, and then it hit me, maybe the reason why i'd gotten so lost in the music, was probably because the 007 just gave me a clear window to enjoy the pictrue depicted by the music, wich i believe is exactly what a good paire of headphones should do.They've been on my mind ever since, but since they're doesn't seem to be an autorized Stax dealer here in Montréal, i guess i'll just have to wait till the next Hi-Fi show to finaly hear the 009 and compare them to the 007 MK2.
   
  I presently own Grado's GS/HP/PS1000s, my source is a Yamaha DVD-S2700, it has decent D/A converters and sound pretty good, and my amp is a Musical Fidelity X-CAN V2, overall i'm very satisfied with my sound system, but this hobby being what it is, if Stax headphones can bring me closer to the holy grail, i just might give myself a nice present.


----------



## Otakusound

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Come on, read the replies and use the search function alteady! It gets old to read the same questions over and over and over and over again.


 
   
  What's the best DAC for under $200?


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Come on, read the replies and use the search function alteady! It gets old to read the same questions over and over and over and over again.


 
  Hi there I'm newbian and have a question my doctor said I have excess iron in my bloodstream and my question is does this make me magnetic?  Because the headphones I'm looking at getting are plantar magnetic and I don't wanna screw up the magnetic fields and make my new headphones go haywire like the kid who was in the holocaust who used his magnetic powers and grew up to be gandalf.  Hopefully this isn't too polarizing of a question k thanks guys.


----------



## Chodi

Quote:  The 407 is supposed to be better than the 507? That means I can get the SRM252s to drive it with?[/quote]

  Nobody has said that the 407 is better than the 507. What has been said is that the 407 with the 507 ear pads is almost identical in sound to the 507. As with most quality headphones both will scale for better sound with better amplification. The SRM252 may drive these headphones to acceptable levels to your ears, but they will certainly have not reached their full potential.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Hi there I'm newbian and have a question my doctor said I have excess iron in my bloodstream and my question is does this make me magnetic?  Because the headphones I'm looking at getting are plantar magnetic and I don't wanna screw up the magnetic fields and make my new headphones go haywire like the kid who was in the holocaust who used his magnetic powers and grew up to be gandalf.  Hopefully this isn't too polarizing of a question k thanks guys.


 
  Get the Beyerdynamic T1.
  The 1 tesla of magnetism will cause the iron to gravitate to your ears, This will augment the cellular structure and stop any unwanted reverberation in your ear canals as well as steel your nerves.
  It will also regulate the amount of iron in your blood which will prevent any blood disorders caused by excessive iron in your bloodstream.
   
   
  Quote: 





> Whats the best DAC for under $200?


 
  1. A second hand Dacmagic.
  2. Any Dac over $200 acquired from "Midnight Spares" or "Light-Fingers Inc." (Not recommended).


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Nobody has said that the 407 is better than the 507. What has been said is that the 407 with the 507 ear pads is almost identical in sound to the 507. As with most quality headphones both will scale for better sound with better amplification. The SRM252 may drive these headphones to acceptable levels to your ears, but they will certainly have not reached their full potential.


 
  Ah, do any of you know if the 407's sound close to the Hifiman HE500s? It would make everything MUCH easier.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Ah, do any of you know if the 407's sound close to the Hifiman HE500s? It would make everything MUCH easier.


 
   
  if you like i can do a quick comparison between the Stax 507 and Hifiman HE500.  as for comfort, if you have a small head i wouldnt recommend the rectangle Stax design as they will sit very low on your ears.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> if you like i can do a quick comparison between the Stax 507 and Hifiman HE500.  as for comfort, if you have a small head i wouldnt recommend the rectangle Stax design as they will sit very low on your ears.


 
  I'd say I have a small head, but I tried the Stax 207 or 307(not sure which) with a Stax SR252s and was absolutely blown away. I had LCD2, Senn HD800, and a Beyer T1 with me and thought the Stax sounded better. But hey, thats just my opinion. I thought they were extremely comfortable too. I would love a comparison. Thanks!


----------



## arnaud

Fortunately for us all, Justin has turned into an angel overlooking newbies in their quest toward money well spent . You're in good hands, that at least I can say!


----------



## arnaud

.


----------



## agentsim

Quote: 





stacker45 said:


> Then i got home, still thinking about that ''Hallmark moment'' i just had, and then it hit me, maybe the reason why i'd gotten so lost in the music, was probably because the 007 just gave me a clear window to enjoy the pictrue depicted by the music, wich i believe is exactly what a good paire of headphones should do.They've been on my mind ever since, but since they're doesn't seem to be an autorized Stax dealer here in Montréal, i guess i'll just have to wait till the next Hi-Fi show to finaly hear the 009 and compare them to the 007 MK2.


 
   
  I've recently had a similar "Hallmark moment" w.r.t Stax phones, specifically the 007/007tII combo... but that was at Audio Shop here in Montreal... check 'em out!


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Ah, do any of you know if the 407's sound close to the Hifiman HE500s? It would make everything MUCH easier.


 
  I've owned both (I sold the HE500). I did a direct comparison and the midrange of the HE500 is very different from the 407 (with either ear pad). The HE500 has a very magical midrange and a bit on the warm side. The 407/507 is very neutral in the mids and very true to the recording. So no, they do not sound close. The HE500's are very heavy and I could not deal with them from a comfort standpoint. The 407 is lighter and more comfortable with either ear pad but it is no HD800 or T1 in the comfort department. I own the T1's and I can forget I am wearing headphones with them on. You won't be forgetting the 407/507.


----------



## SBranson

Thanks to everyone in this thread... I have the 507's en route!


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Thanks to everyone in this thread... I have the 507's en route!


 
  Congratulations on the 507"s. What amp will you be using with them?


----------



## livewire

@SBranson - Have you tried them yet? And yeah, what amp?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Come on, read the replies and use the search function alteady! It gets old to read the same questions over and over and over and over again.


 
   
   
  The search function for threads isn't very good, even if you are a clever lad with the syntax.  Needs improvement.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





> Whats the best DAC for under $200?


 
 Some folks like the Musical Fidelity VDAC.  Pretty good DAC for cheap, used.  Slightly warm sounding; not for detail freaks.
  
 http://www.stereophile.com/digitalprocessors/musical_fidelity_v-dac_da_processor/index.html


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





chodi said:


> I've owned both (I sold the HE500). I did a direct comparison and the midrange of the HE500 is very different from the 407 (with either ear pad). The HE500 has a very magical midrange and a bit on the warm side. The 407/507 is very neutral in the mids and very true to the recording. So no, they do not sound close. The HE500's are very heavy and I could not deal with them from a comfort standpoint. The 407 is lighter and more comfortable with either ear pad but it is no HD800 or T1 in the comfort department. I own the T1's and I can forget I am wearing headphones with them on. You won't be forgetting the 407/507.


 
   
  407/507 are very true to amp/source too, 
  & they improve significantly after break-in, I was disappointed by the fresh 507,
   
  now I use them everyday,because they are so transparent,never distract me from music.
  the lambda signature have better mids, but Im not totally satisfied with their highs & basses.


----------



## stacker45

Quote: 





agentsim said:


> I've recently had a similar "Hallmark moment" w.r.t Stax phones, specifically the 007/007tII combo... but that was at Audio Shop here in Montreal... check 'em out!


 
   
  I tought we didn't have a Stax dealer in Montréal, i'll be checking them out for sure, thank!


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Congratulations on the 507"s. What amp will you be using with them?


 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> @SBranson - Have you tried them yet? And yeah, what amp?


 
   
   
  A few weeks ago I found a Lambda Signature/ SRM-T1 set locally for a good price.  I hadn't intended on keeping them but I liked the sound so much that I've gone ahead to the SR-507s.
  I read on here that the SRM-T1 is a decent amp for the 507s.   
  The 507s are in the post so I haven't had a chance to hear them.  My source isn't ideal at the moment, an ipod with lossless files but I will be adding a Cypher Labs DAC to that.  The Ipod (through LOD) sounds pretty good through the present Λsigs and SRM-T1 but mostly with small chamber works and female vocals/piano/guitar.


----------



## MDR30

I wanna check the drivers of my SR5 Gold. Are there any pics of the dismantled driver and membrane? The solder connections seem to be a bit of an obstacle...


----------



## livewire

Check this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/172611/long-meandering-comparison-of-stax-404-and-stax-x-iii-episode-i/240
   
  I only looked at the last page. Some good pics of the drivers, post #247 gives a good description of disassembly.
  FWIW, your SR-5 Gold drivers are the basically the same as what's used in the STAX SR-X Mk3.
   
  Good luck, the driver innards are extremely delicate and just one small piece of dust getting inside can cause more problems.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> if you like i can do a quick comparison between the Stax 507 and Hifiman HE500.  as for comfort, if you have a small head i wouldnt recommend the rectangle Stax design as they will sit very low on your ears.


 
   
  I did that comparison at RMAF CanJam 2011, and I thought the 507 still had that etch and an upper mids honkyness, and the HE-500 sounded more refined, warmer, natural and enjoyable overall.  I would not buy the 507 personally, as my Lambda Nova Signature that I'd brought with me sounded better (very much like an HE-500 actually).
   
  (Gear Used - I listened to the 507 with the Cavalli Audio rig and my Apogee mini-DAC into a KGSS, I listened to the HE-500 there at the Cavalli Audio table with Liquid Fire, my table with a DACmini, and an unknown DAC at the Schitt Audio table (Bifrost?) into a Lyr amp).


----------



## wolfetan44

Is Stax known to be amazing with electronic?


----------



## schorsch

They were,
   
  well they built quite interesting pre an power amps and some DACs and CD-players.....
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## MorbidToaster

wolfetan44 said:


> Is Stax known to be amazing with electronic?




If you mean Electronic music, not particularly. It depends on what you're looking for sound wise though. The 404LE was great with Electronic music for me and a few others at the Dallas meet recently...and the 009 sounds legendary with just about everything including EDM.

They're especially good for Ambient though.


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Is Stax known to be amazing with electronic?


 
   
  As long as the music was recorded well with the intention of neutral playback, it should sound great, as long as you are not looking for bass cannons. I'm not sure how rigorously most electronic music follows this ideal, however.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





juantendo8 said:


> As long as the music was recorded well with the intention of neutral playback, it should sound great, as long as you are not looking for bass cannons. I'm not sure how rigorously most electronic music follows this ideal, however.


 
  I guess it's more Pshycedelic Rock but its electronic..


----------



## PedroH

Most probably this question was already answered in this forum but with 1532 pages I can't find it.
   
  My dealer is suggesting me to buy the SR009 + SRM-007tII.
   
  I have no doubts the SR009 are very good. Is this Stax amp a proper match? How does it compare with the more expensive Woo WES?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## spritzer

The WES is a disaster to say the least so stick with the Stax amps.  Of them the 727 is the best choice for the SR-009.


----------



## DefQon

Thought the WES was highly regarded here besides the BHSE, A10, Diy KGSSHV.


----------



## padam

I guess that is because (sometimes?) people just like the sound of non-linearity.
  Normally, an amp shoud be powerful but transparent, that means getting in the way as little as possible.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Thought the WES was highly regarded here besides the BHSE, A10, Diy KGSSHV.


 
  I am currently using the Stax 323II with the 009 (while waiting for a BHSE on order)... I was in Berlin recently and had a chance to listen to the 727 and compare it with the new Malvlave. I was not impressed at all by the 727 vs the 323II and I wished at the time that I had my amp with me to compare. At any rate, after about an hour of listening to this amp I thought that the 323II was pretty good for half the price (but again, I was not able to compare them side by side). Oh, and just in case you wondered, the Malvalve was impressive, but mostly for Jazz (much better than the 323II, no doubt!), not so much for classical music though. I sincerely do hope that the BHSE will sound way better than the Malvalve with classical music, which is pretty much all I listen to.


----------



## MorbidToaster

pedroh said:


> Most probably this question was already answered in this forum but with 1532 pages I can't find it.
> 
> My dealer is suggesting me to buy the SR009 + SRM-007tII.
> 
> ...




From most impressions it seems the WES isn't too well liked when compared to the Liquid Lightning or BHSE. I know I'm happy with my LL.


----------



## tonereef

I've been away from head-fi for months so missed any comments from Spritzer about why they can't live up to their potential...
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> With the 009 we have the marriage of these two design principles, expensive housing with a very expensive driver and naturally, double the price.  The housing follows the same principles as the SR-007, milled aluminum though I know they looked into cast magnesium for the frame but it was ultimately too expensive.  It's not as substantial as the 007 housing though.  The driver uses the same resin frame as the 007 but all the parts are high precision metal.  The stators use three pieces bonded together to make it very stiff and strong plus they looked into the thermal issues quite a bit (009 driven hard can dissipate close to 1W in heat, so much for electrostatics not needing power) as the stators could get warped a tiny bit which will increase distortion.  One has to remember just how tight the tolerances are here as the total stator to diaphragm gap for Pro bias is 0.5mm or 500um.  That's very, very small indeed...  As much as I hate the 009 headband it isn't cheap to make even if it is a bit flimsy.  The 009 design also almost bankrupted Stax so that's probably why they made them so bloody expensive.  Such a shame they can't live up to their potential though...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The WES is a disaster to say the least so stick with the Stax amps.  Of them the 727 is the best choice for the SR-009.


 
  While I've never heard the WES with the SR-009s, I can certainly attest that the 727II is a fantastic amp for the SR-009s.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Thought the WES was highly regarded here besides the BHSE, A10, Diy KGSSHV.


 
   
  First off, the A-10 isn't highly regarded by anyone.  It is just an expensive epic pile of fail and sounds horrid unless of course you happen to like THD of 10+%.  I even built my own version, the B-10, to see if there was any way to salvage the circuit by building it correctly but no, just got a slightly bit better.
   
  The WES is a good example of what happens when people take an existing circuit they clearly don't understand and "supercharge it".  By doing that all the wrong decisions are made so you end up with something that is far worse than the original amp.  One thing that baffles me is not that the WES sounds bad but people pay this much for an amp and just accept that the single ended inputs should not be used due to noise issues.  It's not that hard to build a phase splitter... 
   
  It is a long standing tradition in Hi-Fi to think that two pieces that cost the same deliver the same performance.  This naturally couldn't be further from the truth and most of this stuff is just expensive and is beaten easily by far more inexpensive equipment.  The BHSE is expensive to build but then we have all these ´"me too" products which are just expensive and don't deliver anywhere near the same performance level.  It is dead easy to build both an all tube amp and a solid state design to compete with the BHSE at this price level but all these companies care about it making money with huge markups.  Well either that or they just don't know how to do it.


----------



## wolfetan44

What DAC do you use with a electrostatic?


----------



## moti

I have been offered NOS STAX SR-303. Unfortunately test listening is not possible. Can anybody share his/her experiences if compared to Lambda Pro from 80´s? Is this upgrade or what?


----------



## PedroH

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The WES is a disaster to say the least so stick with the Stax amps.  Of them the 727 is the best choice for the SR-009.


 
  Can you elaborate in which aspects the 727II is better then the 007tII for the SR009?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> What DAC do you use with a electrostatic?


 
  Any DAC will do ya, but personally I prefer big heavy DACses with stiff hairy power cables
  that cost ten times more than the DAC does. 
  I find that this combination ensures maximum transmission of musical artifacts
  to my temporal lobes with less loss.


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





satorarepotenet said:


> I am currently using the Stax 323II with the 009 (while waiting for a BHSE on order)... I was in Berlin recently and had a chance to listen to the 727 and compare it with the new Malvlave. I was not impressed at all by the 727 vs the 323II and I wished at the time that I had my amp with me to compare. At any rate, after about an hour of listening to this amp I thought that the 323II was pretty good for half the price (but again, I was not able to compare them side by side). Oh, and just in case you wondered, the Malvalve was impressive, but mostly for Jazz (much better than the 323II, no doubt!), not so much for classical music though. I sincerely do hope that the BHSE will sound way better than the Malvalve with classical music, which is pretty much all I listen to.


 

 Let us know about the comparison malvalve vs hawai )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## schorsch

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> What DAC do you use with a electrostatic?


 

 Well,
   
  I use only stax DACs )
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> What DAC do you use with a electrostatic?


 
   
  The one in my X-Fi Titanium HD.
   
  I'm not much of a believer in expensive audiophile DACs. That money's better off going toward electrostatic headphones and amps if you ask me, since those are the things actually reproducing the sound.


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> What DAC do you use with a electrostatic?


 
  Dude, are you serious?


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Dude, are you serious?


 
   
  A novice question yes, though we all started somewhere...
   
  Dude.


----------



## wolfetan44

yuceka said:


> Dude, are you serious?


Just wondering, dude. I would've never thought that we needed a special DAC for balanced amps.


----------



## wolfetan44

Double post.


----------



## sphinxvc

^  I seriously think you need to read/search more.  Head-fi sucks...sorry, I mean Head-fi's search sucks, so use Google to site specific search head-fi.  Here's how.  There's years worth of answers to "novice" questions just like the ones you've been posting.
   
  --
   
  Good post, Spritzer.


----------



## milosz

Yeah  I'm less than pleased with the Head-Fi search algorithm, too.
   
   
   
  As far as "what DAC to use with electrostatic 'phones" - well, I suggest using a GOOD one.  Many many GOOD DACs out there.  There are also some GREAT DACs  and with a good amp and Stax phones you might hear the subtle difference between GOOD and GREAT DACs.
   
  Seems to me the biggest differences in DACs are between sigma-delta DACs (Wolfson WM8741, ESS 9018)  and R2R DACs that use PCM1704  and so on.
   
  There are also various approaches to the circuitry that surrounds the DAC- the analog stages and the power supplies.  These can have an impact on sound too.  You see things like the Audio-Gd DACs  which tend to use a large number  of "Class A regulator" power supplies and all-discrete analog stages with selected / matched transistors.
   
  Then there are DACs like the Lavry DA2002, which takes the trouble to tightly regulate even the temperature of the DAC components and has a method to self-calibrate the resistance magnitudes in it's R2R ladder.
   
  Even though these "uber DACs" offer good engineering and fine sound, there are also a lot of modestly priced DACs out there that will sound better than the DAC inside your MP3 player / cell phone / PC.  A used Cambridge DAC MAGIC can be reasonably priced; a MK 1 Musical Fidelity VDAC can also be gotten for very reasonable money and is a fine DAC for those who like a bit of "lush" sonic character voiced into their DAC.  TONS of respectable DACs out there.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pedroh said:


> Can you elaborate in which aspects the 727II is better then the 007tII for the SR009?


 
   
  The trouble with both tube amps are the tubes being used.  They are only rated at 330V but asked to work at almost 700V so when you turn up the volume everything becomes compressed.  The 727 is a flawed design but at least it doesn't run out of steam so quickly.


----------



## agentsim

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Does that mean that some judicious tube rolling on the 007tII could make it a better choice than the 727?


----------



## Hun7er

I discovered that they exist the SR007Mk2.5, how it differs by others revisions in sound quality ?


----------



## Currawong

Hun7er: Type this into Google's search box: 
   
   


> sr007 mk 2.5 "stax thread" site:head-fi.org


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





agentsim said:


> Does that mean that some judicious tube rolling on the 007tII could make it a better choice than the 727?


 
  No, according to Spritzer, the problem is Stax is putting 700 volts on a tube designed for 300 volt maximum on the  plate.  No matter what tube you roll in to those sockets in the Stax amp, NONE of them will be tubes designed to run at 700 volts. The Stax has nine-pin miniature sockets wired for 6CG7 tubes.  
   
  See  http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6cg7.html
   
  A 6FQ7 will work in that socket, but it's only rated a little higher than a 6CG7.  (6CG7 is rated 300 volts max on the plate, 6FQ7 rated at 330 volts  http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6fq7.html )
   
  So, you see, just trying GE  vs  RCA, etc, 6CG7's isn't going to get you a tube that likes 700 volts.  Nor is finding a pin-compatible tube like a 6FQ7... and I don't know any other tubes you could just plug in to the amplifier.  You could install octal sockets so you could use full-size tubes like pairs of EL34's, which are rated up to 800 volts on the plate.  But of course this is a much different tube and you can't just substitute it in the circuit without making substantial changes to the circuit.  So you'd have to redesign the whole output stage.... and before long you'd have something like a Blue Hawaii or DIY T2....


----------



## padam

Quote: 





hun7er said:


> I discovered that they exist the SR007Mk2.5, how it differs by others revisions in sound quality ?


 
  It is an SR007 with a few strange things added to its sound.
  I would love to hear a port + spring modified pair as stock it really does not sound too good in my opinon.


----------



## Hun7er

Are you kidding me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  It seems that it is brighter than others revisions.


----------



## padam

No I am not. Brightness is a relative term.
  The SR507 is bright as well but it has less dips and peaks in its FR than the SR007Mk2.5


----------



## Operakid

I'm in love with my first headphones, the 407 with the SRM-006tS and am so curious about the 009. I don't listen real loud, 85db peaks. Will this amp drive the 009 well?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## agentsim

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Answers like this are why I love head-fi... thanks


----------



## Lan647

^^


----------



## mungwi

Hi, I'm relatively new around here.  I just recently acquired an ESP950 and have read the E90 energizer leaves some to be desired.  Can someone suggest a good place to look for used Stax amps?  Would 580v pro bias be a good match for the 600v esp950?


----------



## livewire

Good place?
   
  Japan? Ebay? With a bit of patience, here at HF. 
   
  Pro bias works fine with the Koss. 
   
  The E90 is quite good for a cheap plastic box, no real need to upgrade.
   
  Will say that the ESP-950 pairs well with the KGSSHV.


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





mungwi said:


> Hi, I'm relatively new around here.  I just recently acquired an ESP950 and have read the E90 energizer leaves some to be desired.  Can someone suggest a good place to look for used Stax amps?  Would 580v pro bias be a good match for the 600v esp950?


 
   


 if luck is on your side and your budget permits, an used kgss makes a good match. but once you have that, it will leave another things to be desired again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  maybe spritzer or other stat mafia can chime in on how esp950 works with other amp be it third party or stax amp ? I only have experience with kgss on this particular headphone. ahhh, guess maybe its time for me to get another esp950. I miss it really.....regret selling it
   
  Edit : just checked Amazon, I got it in the past about 2 years ago for 570 now its friggin 900!!!! Now this really makes me regret........


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> Maybe spritzer or other stat mafia can chime in on how esp950 works with other amp be it third party or stax amp ?


 
  I just did.


----------



## DefQon

Love that sticker.


----------



## livewire

Thanx!
   
  The theme is "Back To The Future". In deference to the KGSS.
   
  I still need to section the cover ala DeLorean and add a flux capacitor to the front panel.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





mungwi said:


> Hi, I'm relatively new around here.  I just recently acquired an ESP950 and have read the E90 energizer leaves some to be desired.  Can someone suggest a good place to look for used Stax amps?  Would 580v pro bias be a good match for the 600v esp950?


 
   
  I have ESP-950's, and the E90, and I have a Stax SRM-T1  as well, and used to have an SRM-1 mk 2.  My ESP 950's have been rewired with a Stax cable and I have a dongle that lets me use headphones with 5-pin Stax plugs on the Koss E90 amplifier.  I already had my SRM-T1  before I got my ESP-950's, else I might have stayed with the E90.
   
  The E90 sounds a lot like the SRM-1 mk2.  I think the SRM-T1  might sound a little more "refined" but otherwise there's not much difference between the E90 and the SRM-T1.
   
  E90 is really no slouch.  Very close to the sound of the various widely-available Stax amps.  I think to get a NOTICEABLY better sound out of the ESP-950  you'd need to go up to something like the KGSSHV*  amp.   As usual with high-end audio, the last 15% of sound quality costs 85% of the money......
   
  So, really, unless you are obsessed with audio like I am, or have loads of money,  it makes sense to stick with the E90.
   
  The E90 also has the advantage of being able to run on batteries.  Very handy if you are into location recording and want the transparency of electrostatic headphones for monitoring.
   
  (I am _badly_ obsessed with audio, so I am building a Gilmore designed amp, but it's slow going because I never have time to work on it.)
   
   
   
   
   
   
  * KGSSHV  This stands for Kevin Gilmore Solid State High Voltage- and let me explain what that means.  There's a gentleman named Kevin Gilmore, who is a very talented electronic engineer and also a skilled technician and machinist. He has designed a number of very good headphone amplifiers, mostly amplifiers designed for use with electrostatic headphones. Often, people use his design and build the equipment themselves. Mr. Gilmore is more than happy to provide his design to home-builders for free.  The amplifiers can be a little challenging, but with patience I think even a beginner could build them.  However, you need to be able to solder and also to house the amplifier in some kind of chassis. Chassis work could be as simple as buying a commercially available blank chassis and cutting the various mounting holes, etc that are needed.  Or, you can start from metal stock and machine it all yourself if you have access to the right kind of tools.
   
  I believe that some Kevin Gilmore designs are available commercially from "professional builders."  They are not cheap.  I think a KGSSHV  would run about $4,000.  It would cost you about $1,500 to build one.  (Prices are guestimates.)


----------



## Currawong

Just thought I'd let you guys know we visited the Stax factory yesterday for an interview, thanks to scottsmrnyc and arnaud. I can't post anything in detail about it yet (we need to verify the answers to our questions were understood correctly after we translate them) but I will say there were some surprises in there.


----------



## wink

My ears are starting to itch for more.....


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





wink said:


> My ears are starting to itch for more.....


 
   
  Nice avatar.


----------



## wink

Must say, currawongs are more friendly than magpies in the wild.
  Don't know about nesting season though. Magpies can be a real pain then.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I believe that some Kevin Gilmore designs are available commercially from "professional builders."  They are not cheap.  I think a KGSSHV  would run about $4,000.  It would cost you about $1,500 to build one.  (Prices are guestimates.)


 
   
  Oh, I was not aware that there were “professional builders” now from whom one could buy a KGSSHV. Do you have any names? Thank you.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





milosz said:


> * KGSSHV  This stands for Kevin Gilmore Solid State High Voltage- and let me explain what that means.  There's a gentleman named Kevin Gilmore, who is a very talented electronic engineer and also a skilled technician and machinist.


 
  He is a chemist, I believe.


----------



## El_Doug

working for the chem department != being a chemist  
   
  Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> He is a chemist, I believe.


----------



## Radio_head

I work for SAP.  What does that make me?


----------



## Icenine2

A Chemist for Northwestern University.  No slouch for sure!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





icenine2 said:


> A Chemist for Northwestern University.  No slouch for sure!


 
  He works for the chemistry department at Northwestern in their electronics shop.  As I understand it, he makes / modifies / repairs instrumentation and experimental apparatus.  I don't think he's a chemist, but an electrical engineer. A "Living Treasure" for the Stax community, for sure.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I work for the integrated molecular structure facility.
Mainly NMR. Also mass spec, elemental analysis
And small crystal 3D X-ray. The electronics shop
Closed 9 years ago.

But really I'm the chief cook and bottle washer


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> I work for SAP.  What does that make me?


 
  SD, MM, PP, FI, ABAP ???


----------



## Icenine2

Chief cook and amp designer extraordinaire!!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I work for the integrated molecular structure facility.
> Mainly NMR. Also mass spec, elemental analysis
> And small crystal 3D X-ray. The electronics shop
> Closed 9 years ago.
> But really I'm the chief cook and bottle washer


 
  Interesting.  I worked for Beckman Instruments for quite a few years, then later for H.P. before it was Agilent. And then on to software stuff....


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


icenine2 said:


> Chief cook and amp designer extraordinaire!!


 
   
  AND makes every post look like a piece of poetry for us to ponder on...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> But really I'm the chief cook and bottle washer


 
   
  That and my chief test engineer of long term product stability...


----------



## WilCox

Kevin is being a bit modest.  We worked together back in the 80's -- electron microscopy, analytical x-ray,electron backscatter diffraction, x-ray fluorescence, energy dispersive spectroscopy, etc.  Kevin knows his Schiit -- and his Stax.  I believe that was the same era that Tyll was working at the same company as a field engineer and decided that headphones need good portable amps if you're going to be stuck on a plane for half your waking life, if my synapses are still firing correctly.


----------



## kevin gilmore

www.edax.com  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  and i still remember the pdp-11/73 and the microvax's


----------



## Headzone

Hey guys, I've been looking at used SR-202's recently. They seem to go for ~250$ used. What do I exactly need to power them? Is there a cheap way to get them moving?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> www.edax.com
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I used to do all my programming on a pdp-11/70.


----------



## wuwhere

Unix on C language through a VT100 when I was in school and a VAX 11/780 when I started working. They were made by DEC.


----------



## Michgelsen

The cheapest way is probably one of the smaller Stax amps, such as the SRM-212, SRM-252, SRM-310, SRM-Xh etc, or, if you already have a speaker amp, a pro bias transformer box, such as an SRD-7 or Woo Audio Wee.
   
  The SR-202, being part of the Lambda series, is relatively easy to drive, so any pro bias Stax amp will do. The Stax tube amps, such as the SRM-T1, SRM-006t etc., pair especially well with the Lambda series. I loved my SR-202 with the SRM-T1, but these amps are a bit more expensive than the small transistor amps such as those mentioned above.
   
   
  Quote: 





headzone said:


> Hey guys, I've been looking at used SR-202's recently. They seem to go for ~250$ used. What do I exactly need to power them? Is there a cheap way to get them moving?


----------



## Headzone

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> The cheapest way is probably one of the smaller Stax amps, such as the SRM-212, SRM-252, SRM-310, SRM-Xh etc, or, if you already have a speaker amp, a pro bias transformer box, such as an SRD-7 or Woo Audio Wee.
> 
> The SR-202, being part of the Lambda series, is relatively easy to drive, so any pro bias Stax amp will do. The Stax tube amps, such as the SRM-T1, SRM-006t etc., pair especially well with the Lambda series. I loved my SR-202 with the SRM-T1, but these amps are a bit more expensive than the small transistor amps such as those mentioned above.


 
  Thanks for the answer, I think i'm getting them now. What would you pay for a used pair of SR-202's btw? Is 250usd too much for them?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Unix on C language through a VT100 when I was in school and a VAX 11/780 when I started working. They were made by DEC.


 
  me too!


----------



## Tyll Hertsens

Quote: 





wilcox said:


> Kevin is being a bit modest.  We worked together back in the 80's -- electron microscopy, analytical x-ray,electron backscatter diffraction, x-ray fluorescence, energy dispersive spectroscopy, etc.  Kevin knows his Schiit -- and his Stax.  I believe that was the same era that Tyll was working at the same company as a field engineer and decided that headphones need good portable amps if you're going to be stuck on a plane for half your waking life, if my synapses are still firing correctly.


 
  Wha!! Do I know you?


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I used to do all my programming on a pdp-11/70.


 
   
  Yeah, I also know pdp-11/70, and did my programming with VAX 11/780, VAX 8800 etc. Oh, those days...


----------



## verber

Quote: 





lonely_rider said:


> Yeah, I also know pdp-11/70, and did my programming with VAX 11/780, VAX 8800 etc. Oh, those days...


 
   
  Nah... those where the evil step-children of the true process of that age was DEC's Kx-10, be it running Tenex, ITS, Tops-20, etc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  --Mark


----------



## tonereef

I've been listening to the 009s using a well designed and built all-tube DIY 6SN7 amp (2 output tubes) and I gotta say it sounds sweet. Using 6FQ7s rather than 6DJ8s in the 2nd stage gives it more low end oomph than my all-tube DIY EL34 amp. Just as importantly for the 009s, this amp doesn't emphasize highs and portrays timbre in a more complex and satisfying way than the EL34 amp. Dynamics are still plenty good. So here's the question: admitting that the O2 probably requires EL34s to sound its best, maybe some of the dissatisfaction some people have had with the 009s has more to do with the amp they're using than the phones themselves. Is it possible that the BHSE and the Woo (neither of which I've had a chance to hear) aren't the best possible match?


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





tonereef said:


> Is it possible that the BHSE and the Woo (neither of which I've had a chance to hear) aren't the best possible match?


 
   
  The best possible match, I hope not. The best currently available? It seems indeed that lots of people think so... (leaving the T2 aside).


----------



## spritzer

The problem is with the transducers.  You can inject loads of distortion at HF to counter most of it but even then you are stuck with the odd bass and other artifacts.


----------



## moti

Has anybody compared how the sound differs when driving pro-bias headphones by standart vs. pro-output?
   
  Is it possible to put the STAX drive units in order from the best to worse by the operating principle as follows:
   
  1. Line level amp
  2. Line level tube amp
  3. Speaker level transformer (low-bias)
  4. Speaker level transformer (pro-bias)
  5. ?


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes I would pay 250 usd for a pair of 202s in good condition. I think it's a fair price and MUCH better value than, let's say, a HD600 or HD650. I absolutely love them and I'm listening to them right now in fact. Their tonal balance is just right for my taste, there's no 'etch' in the upper mids, and they're airier sounding than the SR-007. Of course, the SR-007 wins in other aspects, but I could definitely live with the SR-202 as my only pair of headphones.
   
  Quote: 





headzone said:


> Thanks for the answer, I think i'm getting them now. What would you pay for a used pair of SR-202's btw? Is 250usd too much for them?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> www.edax.com
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ah yes, Nuclear Diodes....  no doubt required for damping in circuits employing flux capacitors.
   
  I remember working on a linear accelerator made by Atomic Energy of Canada, Ltd.  that used a PDP-11/12 to control it, program being read in via paper tape....  the accelerator used depleted uranium as shielding, to make it smaller....
   
  Your friend, the atom.....
   

(nice cape, dude...)


----------



## kevin gilmore

germanium so heavily doped that it diffuses at room temperature.
  which is why you have to keep them at liquid nitrogen temperatures
  forever. Still hard to beat the performance of those things 50 years
  later.


----------



## tonereef

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The problem is with the transducers.  You can inject loads of distortion at HF to counter most of it but even then you are stuck with the odd bass and other artifacts.


 

 What other artifacts? Odd bass - no, just maybe not enough of it. I'm going by Tyll's FR graph - and that bump around 1K perhaps needs some taming. Anyway, I'm going to try rolling 6SN7s because at the moment there's actually too little sparkle in the highs. But otherwise, it's a different and better sounding headphone. Now there's a real foundation in the orchestral cellos and basses. Now pianos don't all sound like bright Yamahas.


----------



## spritzer

There is a clear shelving in the bass, same problem as in the HE90.  In fact, the root cause is exactly the same in these two models.


----------



## arnaud

spritzer said:


> There is a clear shelving in the bass, same problem as in the HE90.  In fact, the root cause is exactly the same in these two models.




And you've been abusing if the lcd2 lately haven't you ? 

 From all the measurements I've seen of the 009, including my own, the thing is flat down to 15Hz, show me the shelving are you talking about. Subjectively, the bass of the 009 is as good as it gets to my ears. One of the few staxes that really has impact while having this tight /tuneful quality that really highlights the recording specifics rather than overemphasize bass like so many phones do, which quickly gets old.


----------



## jgazal

Perhaps spritzer wants a multi-layer stator with imperforated outer area driving the diaphragm....


----------



## tonereef

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> From all the measurements I've seen of the 009, including my own, the thing is flat down to 15Hz, show me the shelving are you talking about. Subjectively, the bass of the 009 is as good as it gets to my ears. One of the few staxes that really has impact while having this tight /tuneful quality that really highlights the recording specifics rather than overemphasize bass like so many phones do, which quickly gets old.


 

 I think Tyll's graph (with the phones driven by a BHSE, right?) shows the bass down about 3 dB at 30 Hz, and starting to decline below 50? Whatever, the quality of the bass is excellent, but until now I really couldn't appreciate that fact because there just wasn't enough of it to satisfy me. Since the phones + amp is a package, I'm not about to apportion blame to one or the other, but there seems to be a lack of synergy between the 009s and EL34 amplification (at least in the amp I've used for close to a year with the 009s, and sorry I can't tell you anything about amps that are commercially available). This amp is all tubes, using 4 6DJ8s or 2 6DJ8s + 2 6FQ7s (I was using 6FQ7s, which softened the highs a little) and 4 EL34s. The maker says it's actually closer to a T2 than a Blue Hawaii. The 6SN7 amp has essentially the same circuitry (no resistors in the signal path) but 2 6SN7s for output. This makes for an easy comparison, because the variables are limited. The actual tubes of course make a big difference. Now that I've retubed the 6SN7 amp with great-measuring vintage 6FQ7s and 6SN7s, extended highs are back, but in a much more believable way than on the EL34 amp - the top is never overlit or borderline unpleasant, just really vibrant and open. The EL34 amp is using a matched quad of Winged Cs, and Electro Harmonix 6FQ7s (we didn't try vintage 6FQ7s in it). But anyway, supposing one could improve the bass and treble response of the EL34 amp using more expensive tubes, it's not worth bothering, because the 6SN7 amp sounds so good. And we think that's at least partly because it's using triodes, not pentodes - fewer odd-order harmonics. And nothing's close to being pushed whereas the EL34 amp is running a lot closer to the edge. The 009s evidently don't need a brute force approach the way the O2s do. The 6SN7 amp provides lots of gain, excellent dynamics, tons of detail, a beautiful midrange, and coherence - everything's of a piece, nothing sticks out. From here on any fine-tuning using different tubes and different interconnects is just icing. For me it completely vindicates the 009s - now to my ear there's nothing the O2s do better or even as well, at least if the sound of real music is your measuring stick (and yes, rock sounds great too, not just classical and jazz).


----------



## David1961

Because I don't like visceral bass, the bass 009's produce driven by the BHSE is just right for me, the problem I have is with some recordings using that combo, is there's an edge to the sound that's uncomfortable. I look forward to hearing the Aristaeus driving the 009's.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> And you've been abusing if the lcd2 lately haven't you ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Haven't touched the LCD-2 in months, they are just so inferior to the HD800.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I know what I hear and I'm far from alone in describing the 009 sound this way.  After I wrote that I got two PM's thanking me for confirming that they weren't mad and there was something wrong with these "perfect transducers" as they are sometimes described.   Plenty of people will think these are the bees knees but why is system matching suddenly a word you use in context with Stax?  Normally we have just advocated better amps, better sources as Stax sets did portray what they were fed, be it good or bad.  Now you need the right amp with enough top end roll off and boomy bass and a tube source which would have been considered badly designed in the 1920's....
   
  As for the measurements, I have no doubt Tyll did a good job but there is a lot more too this then just FR, waterfall plots etc, and our understanding of these is severely lacking.  I'm the first to advocate measurements but you have to know what to look for and that zero isn't always the best outcome.  If you design an amp simply for the lowest THD then you end with the O2 amp and utter garbage.  The reason for this is quite simple but it goes to show that measurements are just one point of reference and with THD you actually have an actual one number to work from.  Measure transducers and this becomes an epic headache as it's quite hard to measure them under real working conditions.


----------



## pkshan

I am not sure about 009.
   
  After broken-in, the highs of my 507 had soften quite a bit,
  Now the highs are very refined. very neutral, true to the source & recording.
   
  The 507 require a good source (low jitter, low distortion),
  otherwise their highs could be a problem..... sound "digital",harsh,etc
 [size=1em] [size=16px !important]  很中性的
  
[/size]

 [/size]


----------



## MorbidToaster

Oh god I agree with spritzer. I suppose it was bound to happen eventually.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> *Haven't touched the LCD-2 in months, they are just so inferior to the HD800. *


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Haven't touched the LCD-2 in months, they are just so inferior to the HD800.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think there is a time domain thing that goes on with bass sound quality.  Not a "stored energy" issue so much, as would show up on a waterfall plot, but an issue that might show up in a tone-burst test.  It's something dynamic that would likely not show up in a frequency response test, which is static.  Just my 2 cents.
   
  I have very limited listening experience with SR-009, so I cannot comment on their bass, but I think that IN GENERAL bass sound quality has a lot to do with dynamic behavior that is not well characterized by current test methods.
   
  I think harmonic and IM distortion  under dynamic  conditions also plays a role in transducer sound that is not characterized by measurements currently considered standard.  The notion of a "distortion envelope profile"  if you will.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Oh god I agree with spritzer. I suppose it was bound to happen eventually.


 

 I completely agree, and they are really overrated here. They sound, at best, like a 400$ can.


----------



## MorbidToaster

dukeskd said:


> I completely agree, and they are really overrated here. They sound, at best, like a 400$ can.




Sound wise they have their merits. $400 is a bit harsh, but they certainly have comfort below what I'd expect for even $400.


----------



## n3rdling

I've been calling the LCDs overrated back when you could get banned for such blasphemy...glad to see now that I'm not (_that_) crazy.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Sound wise they have their merits. $400 is a bit harsh, but they certainly have comfort below what I'd expect for even $400.


 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I've been calling the LCDs overrated back when you could get banned for such blasphemy...glad to see now that I'm not (_that_) crazy.


 
  Agreed. Actually to my surprise spritzer actually has the HD800's, _besides_ all that stat gear huh.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Haven't touched the LCD-2 in months, they are just so inferior to the HD800.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think you're shooting the messenger Birgir. The 009 simply lets it through and some are not liking it as it is. You can't have it both ways, and as such, I actually respect Audeze for what they're trying to achieve.
   
  Now, as for your discussion on bass performance of the 009, I assume you're referring to the need to have mid-bass/lower bass emphasis in headphones to subjectively compensate for lack of chest impact? Because as far as measurements go, provided a good seal (a proper dummy head and soft cushion like the 009 is no problem) and good measuring gear (such as Tyll's apparatus), there is no question the bass performance can be effectively and accurately measured and the 009 shows well there.
   
  Many are grateful for your pointing out the Omega 2 mkII porting which messes up the bass and I very much agree with you. For the 009, if anything, Stax tried harder than ever to ensure a stiff electrode and frame to minimize the bass distortion. It is a sealed design with the earpad/diaphragm/cavity resonance tuned at 50Hz. Due to the coupling acoustic-mechanical coupling mechanism, it goes down flat to measurable range (just like the LCDs which has the same sealed earpad/baffle plate design type).
   
  Distortion in general is very low per Tyll's measurements. And subjectively it is as clean, delineated, and impactful as I've heard from Stax gear. That's using the "terrible" SRM-727 stock amp so I can't imagine what will come out of the BHSE. You mention about "measuring them in real working conditions". The thing is, Tyll's measurements are JUST THAT. It's taking the microphone SPL and the input signal into BHSE, the signal levels are typical from operating conditions. Distortion was measured at 90 and 100dB SPL, which is way higher than I ever listen to.
   
  So, I don't know, we probably are looking at different graphs or something? http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/comparing-world-class-headphones-stax-sr-009


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I think there is a time domain thing that goes on with bass sound quality.  Not a "stored energy" issue so much, as would show up on a waterfall plot, but an issue that might show up in a tone-burst test.  It's something dynamic that would likely not show up in a frequency response test, which is static.  Just my 2 cents.
> 
> I have very limited listening experience with SR-009, so I cannot comment on their bass, but I think that IN GENERAL bass sound quality has a lot to do with dynamic behavior that is not well characterized by current test methods.
> 
> I think harmonic and IM distortion  under dynamic  conditions also plays a role in transducer sound that is not characterized by measurements currently considered standard.  The notion of a "distortion envelope profile"  if you will.


 
   
  The impulse response shows that and if there really was a severe issue in the transient response at LF, it would show right up in the impulse response because of the rather long decay time at low frequencies (that's the ringing stuff in the mid-highs which is not particularly straightforward to see in an impulse or step response due to fast decay).
   
  The one thing you may be alluding is the fact an electrostatic transducer is working in stiffness region below the first resonance (which is ~50Hz for the 009) while a traditional dynamic transducer operates in piston motion in that range. So, conceptually, you could raise the point of some form of distortion / compression effects. But in practice, this shape of the transducer has nothing to do with the pressure wave that results from it. Be it a piston or a stretched diaphragm like and estat or ortho, they all drive a small acoustic space which is again in stiffness controlled region (no acoustic modes in the earcup cavity there) and you get uniform pressure across the earcup.  
   
  This may be hard to visualize so have a look at this, it is a contour plot of SPL inside and outside a stat headphone (not the 009 but conceptually it's the same thing) at the fundamental resonance frequency (60Hz here) where the diaphragm, earcup cavity, ear pad, and frame (assumed rigid here) were all modeled. You can clearly see the diaphragm fundamental resonance but the SPL in the earcup is basically homogeneous (and will remain like that until 1kHz or so, e.g. until it can sustain standing waves):


----------



## n3rdling

Cool stuff as always, arnaud.


----------



## sphinxvc

Seriously.  Excellent explanation & visual.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Cool stuff as always, arnaud.


 
  Agreed. Good stuff arnaud.
   
  All I really know is that I found the SR-007 (mkI and mkII) to be just good, but never good enough to make the plunge. I preferred the LCD-2s (and especially the LCD-3s). I've heard them many times over the years and on some really good setups...but the motivation to plop down my hard earned $ was never really there. 
   
  Now the SR-009s with my SRM-727II all I can say is wow! Had them now for about 6 weeks and the new toy syndrome hasn't worn off. These have displaced my beloved LCD-3s as my prime go to cans and work with every genre of music I've thrown at them (rock, metal, jazz, classical, acoustic, alternative, even old school Macedonian folk music). I find their bass is better defined than either the LCD-3 or HD-800s, their mids simply magical and never had issue with their detailed treble. They are imaging monsters and only come in second to the HD-800s in terms of expansiveness.
   
  I never thought I'd be a card carrying member of the Stax Mafia, but here I am...and rather proud of it.


----------



## MorbidToaster

As am I...Though with this new found love of Harbeths (should have a pair soon) I feel I might be 'converted' once again. 
   
  If I downgraded it'd probably be to an LG+HD800...Or maybe just stay in the Mafia and find a 404LE.
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I never thought I'd be a card carrying member of the Stax Mafia, but here I am...and rather proud of it.


----------



## dukeskd

That stuff is really interesting arnaud! Keep it coming.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> The impulse response shows that and if there really was a severe issue in the transient response at LF, it would show right up in the impulse response because of the rather long decay time at low frequencies (that's the ringing stuff in the mid-highs which is not particularly straightforward to see in an impulse or step response due to fast decay).
> 
> The one thing you may be alluding is the fact an electrostatic transducer is working in stiffness region below the first resonance (which is ~50Hz for the 009) while a traditional dynamic transducer operates in piston motion in that range. So, conceptually, you could raise the point of some form of distortion / compression effects. But in practice, this shape of the transducer has nothing to do with the pressure wave that results from it. Be it a piston or a stretched diaphragm like and estat or ortho, they all drive a small acoustic space which is again in stiffness controlled region (no acoustic modes in the earcup cavity there) and you get uniform pressure across the earcup.
> 
> This may be hard to visualize so have a look at this, it is a contour plot of SPL inside and outside a stat headphone (not the 009 but conceptually it's the same thing) at the fundamental resonance frequency (60Hz here) where the diaphragm, earcup cavity, ear pad, and frame (assumed rigid here) were all modeled. You can clearly see the diaphragm fundamental resonance but the SPL in the earcup is basically homogeneous (and will remain like that until 1kHz or so, e.g. until it can sustain standing waves):


 
   
   
  Well, then  I wonder what accounts for the differences in perceived LF sound quality between headphones?  Your thoughts-  ?


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Well, then  I wonder what accounts for the differences in perceived LF sound quality between headphones?  Your thoughts-  ?


 
   
  This is rather vague, what 2 pairs of phones are you referring to for instance? If they measure the same in the LF range, my take would then be masking as perception of bass extension and presence is actually affected by the tonal balance over remainder of the frequency range. For instance, comments as "fast bass" actually often refer to rather broadband characteristics of the phone rather than just its bass response.


----------



## Icenine2

Man I just dig that crazy visual!  Thanks!
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> The impulse response shows that and if there really was a severe issue in the transient response at LF, it would show right up in the impulse response because of the rather long decay time at low frequencies (that's the ringing stuff in the mid-highs which is not particularly straightforward to see in an impulse or step response due to fast decay).
> 
> The one thing you may be alluding is the fact an electrostatic transducer is working in stiffness region below the first resonance (which is ~50Hz for the 009) while a traditional dynamic transducer operates in piston motion in that range. So, conceptually, you could raise the point of some form of distortion / compression effects. But in practice, this shape of the transducer has nothing to do with the pressure wave that results from it. Be it a piston or a stretched diaphragm like and estat or ortho, they all drive a small acoustic space which is again in stiffness controlled region (no acoustic modes in the earcup cavity there) and you get uniform pressure across the earcup.
> 
> This may be hard to visualize so have a look at this, it is a contour plot of SPL inside and outside a stat headphone (not the 009 but conceptually it's the same thing) at the fundamental resonance frequency (60Hz here) where the diaphragm, earcup cavity, ear pad, and frame (assumed rigid here) were all modeled. You can clearly see the diaphragm fundamental resonance but the SPL in the earcup is basically homogeneous (and will remain like that until 1kHz or so, e.g. until it can sustain standing waves):


----------



## tonereef

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Haven't touched the LCD-2 in months, they are just so inferior to the HD800.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  You know what you hear, and so do I. You haven't heard this combination. To characterize the result as top end roll-off and boomy bass would be absurd.
   
  Um, what do you call the BHSE or T2 and the O2 - that isn't system matching?
   
  And the 007s sound far from flat, even with a huge voltage swing to kick their pants.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This is rather vague, what 2 pairs of phones are you referring to for instance? If they measure the same in the LF range, my take would then be masking as perception of bass extension and presence is actually affected by the tonal balance over remainder of the frequency range. For instance, comments as "fast bass" actually often refer to rather broadband characteristics of the phone rather than just its bass response.


 
  Say Stax SR-007 mk 1  and Audeze LCD-2 , or Stax SR-007 mk 1 and Koss ESP-950?


----------



## sillysally

A little different perspective. 
   
  As for pairing the SR-009's with a (lowly cost wise) SRM-727. I know that the SRM-727 takes all the fun out of tube rolling and building a amp that will dim the lights in your house. That aside this combo is truly a end of the line combo, at least for me. 
  Coupled with my Realiser and HQ (5.1/7.1) audio tracks from Blu Ray movies, I have no desired to use my 7.1 speaker system. After having this combo of the SR-009's and SRM-727 for about one year now, it is still surprising me. Of-course the highs and mids are great, but the rumbling lows are teeth chattering (at-least what my brain is telling my senses) with no distortion. 
   
  I am a home theater enthusiast, and as with calibrating the visuals of my display to what and how I see nature/life in the real world. imo for the cost and privacy of my headphone system, my audio is very close to what I hear in nature/real life as are my visuals.
   
  ss


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





tonereef said:


> You know what you hear, and so do I. You haven't heard this combination. To characterize the result as top end roll-off and boomy bass would be absurd.
> 
> Um, what do you call the BHSE or T2 and the O2 - that isn't system matching?
> 
> And the 007s sound far from flat, even with a huge voltage swing to kick their pants.


 
  With all due respect, I think you got it wrong here.
  The 007  Mk1 needs power to make it sing. That it needs power is certainly a hindrance, but not a deficiency from the sound stand point.
  System, matching is designed to hide deficiencies in the chain or the headphone itself, not the other way around.
  That the 009 doesn't need the same power to sound is best is a testimony to its excellent design.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





tonereef said:


> And the 007s sound far from flat, even with a huge voltage swing to kick their pants.


 
   
  I preferred the SR-007 over the SR-009 with KG’s amps.  
  The SR-009 reminds me of the HD800, not so great synergy with a neutral amp.
  Maybe the SR009 needs an amp slightly north of neutral 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## tonereef

Quote: 





gilency said:


> With all due respect, I think you got it wrong here.
> The 007  Mk1 needs power to make it sing. That it needs power is certainly a hindrance, but not a deficiency from the sound stand point.
> System, matching is designed to hide deficiencies in the chain or the headphone itself, not the other way around.
> That the 009 doesn't need the same power to sound is best is a testimony to its excellent design.


 
   
  I agree that the 009 not needing as much power as the 007 Mk 1 is an advantage. But in my experience, the 007 never sounds as realistic timbre-wise as the 009 can, even with lots of power. They have their own different characters. The 007 has a touch of magic about it that's very appealing. I listened to almost no other headphones for 6 years, and I did love them. But I think the magic is related to the way it tends to "soften" the edges of sounds, dynamically and timbrally (and the less power it gets, the softer it sounds). Ultimately it doesn't offer the same degree of clarity as the 009, or the same brilliant, saturated hues.
   
  By system matching I just mean that, like other headphones, the 009 and the 007 sound different depending on how you power them. And the 009 is such a high-definition transducer that it can sound very different indeed. I'm not technically very knowledgeable so I won't go out on a limb to try and explain what I hear. But I'm not convinced that there is an amp or type of amp that is inherently "the best" for all stats, or all Staxes, and that if that amp doesn't make the 009 sound right for someone then the problem is necessarily with the phones. People hear headphone sound more differently than speaker sound because of the head-related transfer function, right? That's a complicating factor that you can't design for. I just know that, having admired the 009 for almost a year yet having struggled to love them, suddenly I do. And most of the difference seems to be frequency-related. Acoustic instruments sound way more like they should. And there's more purity to the sound (which I take to be lower distortion), without sacrificing speed, bass definition or HF extension in the process.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Say Stax SR-007 mk 1  and Audeze LCD-2 , or Stax SR-007 mk 1 and Koss ESP-950?


 
   
  I can't speak from experience here since I haven't heard the ESP-950 and I had only little exposure to the LCD2. Looking only at the InnerFidelity graphs, these three cans don't measure quite the same even if one focuses on the bass region only. First, the ESP-950 seems to leak to the outside, which shows in the LF roll-off and its membrane is tuned at around 80-100Hz rather than 40-50Hz for the Stax and Audeze. As for the SR007mkI and LCD2, forgetting about the inconsistencies across the various measured pairs (seems to all be due to seal), the LCD2 has significantly more damped resonance at 50Hz compared the SR007 sample measured by Tyll. The LCD2r2 has a pretty good looking measured response: http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/AudezeLCD2Rev2.pdf
   
  Looking just at the graphs, the LF response of the LCD2r2 would seem more in line with the SR009 than SR007mk1 actually.


----------



## spritzer

A bit of a late reply but I really don't see that I'm blaming the SR-009 for telling me some new truth and not liking it.  I've said from day one that they are not as detailed as the SR-007 so clearly they are not telling me something I haven't heard before.  Granted the detail on the 007 is far more subtle as they are by definition a very subtle transducer not going to scream look at me anytime soon.  This is a trend all of the great Stax sets have in common so the 009 really isn't telling me anything new.  Seriously, an A-B with them against the SR-Omega for 10 minutes and I had no issues with selling mine. 
   
  Quote: 





tonereef said:


> Um, what do you call the BHSE or T2 and the O2 - that isn't system matching?
> 
> And the 007s sound far from flat, even with a huge voltage swing to kick their pants.


 
   
  How is it system matching to use the best amp available for the job?  There is no tuning in these amps to get "some sound", they are just supposed to be as linear as is possible and provide all the resources the transducers would ever need to do their bit.  System matching it to pair up components so they make up for each others weaknesses. 
   
  Since when should headphones be flat?  Anything this close to the ears has to make up for that proximity.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I can't speak from experience here since I haven't heard the ESP-950 and I had only little exposure to the LCD2. Looking only at the InnerFidelity graphs, these three cans don't measure quite the same even if one focuses on the bass region only. First, the ESP-950 seems to leak to the outside, which shows in the LF roll-off and its membrane is tuned at around 80-100Hz rather than 40-50Hz for the Stax and Audeze. As for the SR007mkI and LCD2, forgetting about the inconsistencies across the various measured pairs (seems to all be due to seal), the LCD2 has significantly more damped resonance at 50Hz compared the SR007 sample measured by Tyll. The LCD2r2 has a pretty good looking measured response: http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/AudezeLCD2Rev2.pdf
> 
> Looking just at the graphs, the LF response of the LCD2r2 would seem more in line with the SR009 than SR007mk1 actually.


 
   
  Interesting.  Upon listening, the Koss ESP-950 has more  apparent bass impact and extension than the SR-007 mk I.


----------



## Icenine2

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> A little different perspective.
> 
> As for pairing the SR-009's with a (lowly cost wise) SRM-727. I know that the SRM-727 takes all the fun out of tube rolling and building a amp that will dim the lights in your house. That aside this combo is truly a end of the line combo, at least for me.
> Coupled with my Realiser and HQ (5.1/7.1) audio tracks from Blu Ray movies, I have no desired to use my 7.1 speaker system. After having this combo of the SR-009's and SRM-727 for about one year now, it is still surprising me. Of-course the highs and mids are great, but the rumbling lows are teeth chattering (at-least what my brain is telling my senses) with no distortion.
> ...


 
  Well stated sir!


----------



## tonereef

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> A bit of a late reply but I really don't see that I'm blaming the SR-009 for telling me some new truth and not liking it.  I've said from day one that they are not as detailed as the SR-007 so clearly they are not telling me something I haven't heard before.  Granted the detail on the 007 is far more subtle as they are by definition a very subtle transducer not going to scream look at me anytime soon.  This is a trend all of the great Stax sets have in common so the 009 really isn't telling me anything new.  Seriously, an A-B with them against the SR-Omega for 10 minutes and I had no issues with selling mine.
> 
> 
> How is it system matching to use the best amp available for the job?  There is no tuning in these amps to get "some sound", they are just supposed to be as linear as is possible and provide all the resources the transducers would ever need to do their bit.  System matching it to pair up components so they make up for each others weaknesses.
> ...


 

 Unfortunately I haven't heard the Omega and don't know anyone around here (Vancouver) who has one. Same with the Blue Hawaii. Anyway, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree about the resolution of the 009 vs 007. It may be that the 007 is a more subtly resolving transducer in some way I can't hear, but overall it just makes music sound cloudier to me, and if I zoom in on certain instruments in a complex tapestry it's harder to hear them as separate lines, and to hear as much of the detail and individual textures of the instruments. It's sort of like listening to an orchestra from the 10th row rather than the first row. Asr and others seem to be claiming that the 009 flattens out fine dynamic shadings and subtle inflections in the music, and that it can't render ambiance accurately. But I think it depends on what you're feeding it, whereas no matter what you feed the 007 it adds a characteristic coloration of its own. If a transducer always sounds a bit more "subtle" than real music, isn't that a fault? That the 009s can run roughshod
  in the upper mids or highs and make you want them to pull back there, or not provide satisfying bass, only indicates that for whatever reason the source and amp aren't providing them with what they need to sound their best. I'm not claiming they're perfect. I'm just saying there's no "by definition" best amp for the job in this case. And maybe for headphones in general, given the differences in how different people hear through phones.
   
  Yes, I know headphones can't measure flat in the highs. But the end result should sound flat, that's what I meant.


----------



## shipsupt

Gents, I am seeking some confirmation and few answers...
   
  It appears (and sounds) like the left driver in my Lambda Nova Signatures has dropped out of place.  I plan to open them up move the driver home.
   

 My understanding is the ear pads are simply stuck on with double sided tape and will need to be removed by peeling them free in order to reach the screws that need to be removed so I can access the inside of the cages and the drivers.  Is this about right?
 Anything else to check out or do while I am in there?  Anything to be careful of?
 Once I remove the ear pads I'm going to guess that the double sided tape is going to be done and will need to be replaced.  I'm also under the understanding that the ear pads are original (perhaps n3rdling can confirm, I got these form him) so it may be a good time to replace them.  My reading indicates I won't get exact replacements as they are no longer available, so any recommendations for which of the other Lambda pads to use for replacement?
 
 The drivers are held in place with double sided tape?  So far the only source I've found for the pre cut tape is together with replacement drivers.  I'm planning to layout and cut some on my own.  Any tips advise on this process?
   
  I'm feeling pretty comfortable with this from what I dug up in this and other threads, but since this is the first Lambda I'm opening up I wanted to check in.
   
  BTW, rocking the good old SR-202 tonight which have been a bit neglected as of late... they never really disappoint.  
   
  Thanks,
 shipsupt


----------



## Kiritz

Hello Everyone!
   
  New to this thread.  I have a pair of 207's and want to upgrade to the 407 or 507.  I am having a very hard time finding out where to buy these things.  I tried via Amazon and after 30 days they said they had to cancel the order because they hadn't heard from the seller, who I presume is in Japan.  The USA dealer seems to seller the 407 for $580 but there are none in stock.  A dealer in Another dealer in the USA has the 507 in stock for $1095.  A dealer in Germany lists the 407 but for about $980!  Any suggestions good people?


----------



## arnaud

Birgir, it's interesting that while you are are typically extremely severe with any amplification that deviates from wire with gain, you blame the 009 for having higher objective performance than the omega 2. I could not word it better than tonereef on the subjective side but the SR-009 is clearly a better performer than the omega on a technical standpoint.

Tyll uses a somewhat different target curve for subjective reasons, but if you use a diffuse field target (which most headphone makers use as reference afaik), the sr009 is pretty darn flat. While there are all sort of theories about driver proximity, need to attenuate the highs for lack of distance, there is no question that a flat measured response on a given dummy means a tonally neutral transducer for that set of speaker headings you used as reference. You get perceived differences when it's your own pinna and may have personal preference for emphasized bass to compensate for lack of chest impact but that is totally subjective.


----------



## Kiritz

Forgot to ask a related question.  I have read that there is not much difference between the 407 and 507, certainly not enough to justify the major difference in price.  I would be interested in thoughts on this.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





kiritz said:


> Hello Everyone!
> 
> New to this thread.  I have a pair of 207's and want to upgrade to the 407 or 507.  I am having a very hard time finding out where to buy these things.  I tried via Amazon and after 30 days they said they had to cancel the order because they hadn't heard from the seller, who I presume is in Japan.  The USA dealer seems to seller the 407 for $580 but there are none in stock.  A dealer in Another dealer in the USA has the 507 in stock for $1095.  A dealer in Germany lists the 407 but for about $980!  Any suggestions good people?


 
   
  Why not have a look on pricejapan.com


----------



## arnaud

These are illustrations of what I meant with "measuring flat" when assuming a diffuse field target. In the graphs below, black it Tyll's raw data (4-5 positions average), red color is the equalization Tyll currently uses (ID for Independent of Direction, which is not quite diffuse but not free field either), blue is using the diffuse field target (labeled as 'DF').
   
  I start with the HD800, then LCD2r2 and SR009 last (sorry, haven't done the Omega 2 yet):


----------



## briskly

That's a bass response I've not seen before on the HD800 or LCD-2. And the midrange too, DF or otherwise. Just so we're all clear on this, do we still assume the -10db slope on the compensated graph?


----------



## Currawong

Quick thoughts since I'm typing on my iPhone: I'm with Arnaud on the 009s just letting through what is upstream. I thought I was hearing some harshness in the treble, but in one case it was an issue with my digital rig. The second time it was the ICs I was using which have a reputation for being too aggressive. 

To some degree I reckon it is similar to what happened with the HD800s when people started using them and started hearing too much.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Gents, I am seeking some confirmation and few answers...
> 
> It appears (and sounds) like the left driver in my Lambda Nova Signatures has dropped out of place.  I plan to open them up move the driver home.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Sorry to hear that   You might not need to take the pads all the way off - I think if you lift up each corner you can access the screws holding the ear assemblies together.  The pads are very likely the originals but I can't say for sure as I wasn't the original owner.


----------



## Nemeske88

Can anyone help? Does anyone know what is the exact type of the potentiometer used on SRM-X Pro or its specifications to be able to exchange it to a brand new? Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Birgir, it's interesting that while you are are typically extremely severe with any amplification that deviates from wire with gain, you blame the 009 for having higher objective performance than the omega 2. I could not word it better than tonereef on the subjective side but the SR-009 is clearly a better performer than the omega on a technical standpoint.
> Tyll uses a somewhat different target curve for subjective reasons, but if you use a diffuse field target (which most headphone makers use as reference afaik), the sr009 is pretty darn flat. While there are all sort of theories about driver proximity, need to attenuate the highs for lack of distance, there is no question that a flat measured response on a given dummy means a tonally neutral transducer for that set of speaker headings you used as reference. You get perceived differences when it's your own pinna and may have personal preference for emphasized bass to compensate for lack of chest impact but that is totally subjective.


 
   
  I have the same standard for amps and transducers, the SR-009 have a definitive "sound" which is which is always there.  All of the great Stax models may have limitations but they are all fundamentally neutral and the SR-009 is certainly not that. 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Sorry to hear that   You might not need to take the pads all the way off - I think if you lift up each corner you can access the screws holding the ear assemblies together.  The pads are very likely the originals but I can't say for sure as I wasn't the original owner.


 
   
  You do indeed lift up each of the 4 corners about 10mm to reveal the screws, no need to mess any more with the pads than that.  To reattach the drivers any strong double sided tape will work.   I've tired pretty much everything I could get my hands on and I've had good results with carpet tape that leaves no residue.  No rough handling on the drivers (they might split open) and it should go well.


----------



## blubliss

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> ... the SR-009 have a definitive "sound" which is which is always there.  All of the great Stax models may have limitations but they are all fundamentally neutral and the SR-009 is certainly not that.


 
   
  The way I see it is that the one with the definite sound that is inescapable, even with a T2, is the 007.  It sounds slow and muddy to me compared to the 009, thinking of selling them since I never use them.  The 009 is a window to the recording, while the 007 is a window with a thick screen.


----------



## Radio_head

There _is_ a thick screen on the 007 - the overly thick grill cloth.  Try removing it and replacing with legging material or just removing it altogether.  It really opens it up.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Hey guys, I have a question. Eventually I would like to get some stax lambdas down the road. I am currently working with another member making a DIY tube headphone amp. I was wondering if the amp were balanced and had the XLR jack for the headphones, would it work for stax headphones. Or is a stax amp something that is just so different that I would be better off getting a stax amp when that time comes?


----------



## Yuceka

Quote: 





tjj226 angel said:


> Hey guys, I have a question. Eventually I would like to get some stax lambdas down the road. I am currently working with another member making a DIY tube headphone amp. I was wondering if the amp were balanced and had the XLR jack for the headphones, would it work for stax headphones. Or is a stax amp something that is just so different that I would be better off getting a stax amp when that time comes?


 
  You can only use electrostatic amplifiers with Stax. So you would not be better off getting a Stax amp, you HAVE TO get an amp that is designed to drive electrostatics.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> You can only use electrostatic amplifiers with Stax. So you would not be better off getting a Stax amp, you HAVE TO get an amp that is designed to drive electrostatics.


 
  Thanks for the reply! It was sad, but quick : )


----------



## shipsupt

Birgir, N3rdling, 
  Thanks for the info.  I think I'll try to keep the pads on since they are in good condition and I'd like to keep these stock as long as I can, so I'll try just pulling up the corners and see how it goes.
  Cheers


----------



## Amarphael

Where can i find MSRPs for Stax's older models (not currently in production)..? I remeber stumbling on this page in German, iirc, that showed these prices for certain models, mainly Lambdas. Can't find it anymore, anyone can link me up? Also, was there any Stax Earspeaker system that cost north of 2K$ back in the happy '80? Just curios...


----------



## DefQon

Wikiphonia has a few MSRP pricing for some of the older Stax model's (mainly Lambda to Lambda Nova). There was a old picture scan written in Japanese of various Stax electret and electrostat prices in Yen's though that I stumbled upon long time ago via a random google search.


----------



## bearFNF

I had this in a file cabinet from when we got our SR-Lambda.
   
  Not sure if it was MSRP or not but it was the quotes fromt he shop we bought them from.
  Brochure is dated 1988.
   
  SR-Lambda Signature + SRM-T1  $1999
  SR-Lambda Professional + SRM-1 Mk.2 Pro $1199
  SR-Lambda Professional + SRD-P $799
  SR-Lambda Professional + SRD-7 Pro $749
  SR-Lambda normal +SRD-7sb $599
  SR-Gamma Professional +SRD-7 Pro $699
  SR-Gamma +SRD-6sb $399
  SR-5NB +SRD6sb $349
  SR-84 Professional $299
  SR-34 Professional $199


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I have the same standard for amps and transducers, the SR-009 have a definitive "sound" which is which is always there.  All of the great Stax models may have limitations but they are all fundamentally neutral and the SR-009 is certainly not that* in my opinion*.


 
   
  FTFY. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I do get where you are coming from though. I bought Arnaud's 007As and intend to plug the ports on them and compare them to the 009s once I have sorted out a better amp. Despite that the bass could be better, I like the 009s out of the T1S I have here.


----------



## spritzer

The 007A is just as bad, especially the SZ3.  The port/spring mod does nothing to fix them.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 007A is just as bad, especially the SZ3.  The port/spring mod does nothing to fix them.


 
  007A  is the general name for all types of SR-007 MK 2?   The SZ3  is sometimes called the  MK 2.5, isn't it?  But the SZ3  is just the latest iteration of SR-007A?
   
  I have a hard time keeping this straight...


----------



## Donnyhifi

Quote: 





milosz said:


> 007A  is the general name for all types of SR-007 MK 2?   The SZ3  is sometimes called the  MK 2.5, isn't it?  But the SZ3  is just the latest iteration of SR-007A?
> 
> I have a hard time keeping this straight...


 
   
  SR-007 = SZ1
  Basically the 007A = 007 MK2(SZ2) and 007 MK2.5(SZ3)
  Keep in mind that Stax refers to both SZ2 and SZ3 as 007 MK2


----------



## spritzer

The SR-007A is just the Japanese version of the Mk2, silver housings to make the gray market units easily recognizable.  They are identical to the Mk2 units sold at any time. 
   
  The first Mk2/A units were SZ2 and the change was less drastic than with the SZ3 units.


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


 

 Discount applies to all STAX gear, I am also considering a purchase.


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Discount applies to all STAX gear, I am also considering a purchase.


 
   
  True, though you apparently can't buy the SRM-727II from ED except in package with the 007mk2.
   
  I was stocking up on MoFi disc sleeves with the discount and added the SR009 to my cart on a lark, expecting them to be excluded from the sale. When they showed up at 10% off, I had to go for it.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> True, though you apparently can't buy the SRM-727II from ED except in package with the 007mk2.
> 
> I was stocking up on MoFi disc sleeves with the discount and added the SR009 to my cart on a lark, expecting them to be excluded from the sale. When they showed up at 10% off, I had to go for it.


 

 What amp will you be using with the SR009s?


----------



## justin w.

While 10% off on Stax is basically break-even, i guess I could match this if anyone is interested.
   
  currently in stock:
  SR-507
  SR-007 MK2
  SR-009
  amp SRM-323S (it only comes in silver) -- only 1 in stock
  amp SR-007tII (black and silver)
   
  out of stock but on the way:
  amp SRM-727II (black and silver)
   
  code - HEADFISTAX10


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> What amp will you be using with the SR009s?


 
   
  The SRM-727II I grabbed on Audiogon yesterday...


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## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


 
  Congrats!


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## dukeskd

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> While 10% off on Stax is basically break-even, i guess I could match this if anyone is interested.
> 
> currently in stock:
> SR-507
> ...


 
  Placed an order


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## MorbidToaster

And further down the rabbit hole you go....

More LF owners trying some 009s.


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## Icenine2

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


 
  Thx Olias!  I haven't seen a post from you since you and I switched to the Liquid Fire from the Woo clan!  Hope all is well and I still need to get a good copy of Olias!


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## Olias of Sunhillow

morbidtoaster said:


> And further down the rabbit hole you go....
> More LF owners trying some 009s.




Indeed. The Liquid Fire is winging its way to its new owner as we speak, and a Super 7 is already heading my way next week. I'd expected to coast with BHA-1 > LCD-3 and Super 7 > HD800 for a while before making any Stax decisions, but the opportunity presented itself.


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## Olias of Sunhillow

icenine2 said:


> Thx Olias!  I haven't seen a post from you since you and I switched to the Liquid Fire from the Woo clan!  Hope all is well and I still need to get a good copy of Olias!




Thanks mate, all is well. The Liquid Fire gave me a solid year of listening enjoyment, and now it's on to the next chapter. 

Olias is definitely a must have on vinyl... If for no other reason than the story doesn't make sense without the explanation and graphics on the gatefold. I'll keep an eye out for you.


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## MorbidToaster

Heck find one for me, too. 
   
  Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Thanks mate, all is well. The Liquid Fire gave me a solid year of listening enjoyment, and now it's on to the next chapter.
> Olias is definitely a must have on vinyl... If for no other reason than the story doesn't make sense without the explanation and graphics on the gatefold. I'll keep an eye out for you.


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## dj nellie

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


 
   
  That's a nice deal, and it's cool that Justin is matching.  It's a bit strange that ED was refusing to give any discount on Stax during their Black Friday sale, but I have no complaints.  I got great service from Justin and I would've had to wait another month for this sale to come around.
   
  I just have to avoid thinking about what I could've bought with the money I would have if I had bought my 009s from this sale.  Senn Momentums?  There's probably little point in trying to improve my portable setup, when the 009s have ruined my ability to enjoy every other headphone I own...


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## drp

Just got a SRM-727II from Justin; shipped in record time. Great sponsor; great guy. Paring the 727 with the bang-for-buck SR-407.

 Resistors for the mod are on order; even ordered a new soldering tool for the occassion (my old Weller workhorse is from the 80s...). Plan to run-in stock and then see how the mod changes things. Great that this mod is so easily reversed.


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## MorbidToaster

Pretty much...
   
  Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> That's a nice deal, and it's cool that Justin is matching.  It's a bit strange that ED was refusing to give any discount on Stax during their Black Friday sale, but I have no complaints.  I got great service from Justin and I would've had to wait another month for this sale to come around.
> 
> I just have to avoid thinking about what I could've bought with the money I would have if I had bought my 009s from this sale.  Senn Momentums?  There's probably little point in trying to improve my portable setup, when the *009s have ruined my ability to enjoy every other headphone I own...*


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## ecohifi

Hi everyone,
   
  Im new to this to this thread and there there seems to be lenghty!
   
  I have a Stax Lambda Pro that consists of the SRM1 MK2 version A, that I had since the early 80s.
   
  I have ordered 3X 450V 220uf 0.062 ohm esr Panasonic, and 50/470uf to recap.
   
  Its probably been done but if someone can point me in the right direction with;
   

 a schematic 
 procedures to set the bias and offset
 component values for power diodes and film caps
   
  regards
   
  echohifi


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## tiberiuspv

Thanks for the double heads up on the 009. Just placed my order with Justin.
  I was planning to buy an 009 very soon after listening to the 009/BHSE combo at a friend's house, the rebate just 'forced' me to act a bit faster 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
  Next step is an amp upgrade (currently 007t and 323S), most likely a BHSE but I have not entirely made up my mind. What is the timeline for the currently planned BHSE build and is there any slot left?


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## Tyll Hertsens

Mele Kalikimaka and all that!
   
  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/listening-great-headphone-amplifiers-and-stax-sr-900


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## MorbidToaster

SR-009* 
   
  Other than that, good write up. Can't say I'm surprised by your pick knowing some of your musical preferences (at least from your posts). 
   
  The more I read the more I think I made the right choice with the LL. EDM, beat driven music is a lot of what I listen to. Should be getting to hear the BHSE in due time myself though. Can't wait to see what Alex has in store for us on the new model. Judging by the Liquid Glass it'll be much better built which is the only complaint I've heard from most people.
   
  Quote: 





tyll hertsens said:


> Mele Kalikimaka and all that!
> 
> http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/listening-great-headphone-amplifiers-and-stax-sr-900


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## sillysally

Quote: 





olias of sunhillow said:


> Just a heads up for anyone in the US contemplating the SR-009... Elusive Disc is offering 10% off all orders, including Stax. Just placed my order!


 
   
That's were I got my SR-009 and SRM-727 at, same sale last year. I like the fact they also give free shipping and are a STAX Authorized Web Dealer.
   
There web store front said they are out of the SRM-727 in black, about two hours after I placed my order they called me and said they had found a SRM-727 black and they shipped that the same day.with my SR-009s and 009 extension cord. 
   
Marry Christmas to all.
   
ss


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## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> That's were I got my SR-009 and SRM-727 at, same sale last year. I like the fact they also give free shipping and are a STAX Authorized Web Dealer.
> 
> There web store front said they are out of the SRM-727 in black, about two hours after I placed my order they called me and said they had found a SRM-727 black and they shipped that the same day.with my SR-009s and 009 extension cord.
> 
> ...


 
  Gotta say the SR-009s are the best cans I've heard and they match very well with my SRM-727II, enough so to beat my LCD-3s and HD-800 (with either LF w/ Siemens E88CC tubes and GS-X).
   
  Merry Christmas Peter!


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## dukeskd

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Gotta say the SR-009s are the best cans I've heard and they match very well with my SRM-727II, enough so to beat my LCD-3s and HD-800 (with either LF w/ Siemens E88CC tubes and GS-X).
> 
> Merry Christmas Peter!


 

 I also ordered the 727IIs, but Tyll's recent write up at InnerFidelity bashes/criticies the amp really strongly.


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## MorbidToaster

dukeskd said:


> I also ordered the 727IIs, but Tyll's recent write up at InnerFidelity bashes/criticies the amp really strongly.




I mean...look what he's comparing it to. Every top flight amp 2x the price...I'd hope it performed poorly compared to any of them.


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## justin w.

i think the Stax amps (most of them) are good for the money.  it's why I'm selling them instead of trying to make my own options at the same price - it would be difficult and unnecessary.


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## spritzer

They are indeed excellent for the price and IMO the modded/fixed 727 makes the A-10/WES/LL look very overpriced indeed.


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## drp

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I also ordered the 727IIs, but Tyll's recent write up at InnerFidelity bashes/criticies the amp really strongly.


 
  I've been listening to an unmodded 727II and SR-407s since this past Saturday; running balanced out of the warmish Opus 21 (5v goodness); volume pot on amp disabled.

 Compared to the uber BHSE class, it does have its limitations; however, I've been extremely impressed with the detail retrieval, separation, and pinpoint imaging. I can only imagine how good it will sound with the 009s.
  
 I trust Spritzer and Tyll's ears and look forward to what the mod offers (awaiting parts), but in the big scheme of things, could be perfectly happy listening to this rig as is. I think you are going to be pleased with the sound.


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## dukeskd

I don't really care that much for reviews.. I'll leave it to my ears for my own review because that is what counts at the end. But the price separation between the Stax gear and others is large (another addition of $3k for most, ~5k$ for the A-10), so obviously the components are quality and the Stax's engineers had their own budget in mind for the 727/007.


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## Solude

Semi disappointed the the GES and 323S weren't included


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## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I don't really care that much for reviews.. I'll leave it to my ears for my own review because that is what counts at the end. But the price separation between the Stax gear and others is large (another addition of $3k for most, ~5k$ for the A-10), so obviously the components are quality and the Stax's engineers had their own budget in mind for the 727/007.


 
  Well, my ears tell me that they pair very, very well together! The SRM-727II and the SR007s were not that great, but the amp really seems to play nicely with the SR-009s to my ears. The new year may hold a LL for me, but we'll see, I'm very happy with what I'm currently hearing.


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## karlgerman

[size=13.333333015441895px]Ultra High-End Transistoramp V4.0 from Andreas Rauenbühler, [/size]MalValve head amp three,...
  there is so many good stuff out there i read about in the last years, which should  be reviewd also.
   
  and in germany we dont have any canjam-meetings where one would be able to compare us-high-end amps for headphones.
  now i think, i have to buy, "out of the blue again". i was lucky with my decisions most of the time. one exeption is my ultrasone ed 10 -- which i still hate.
   
  MalValve head amp three and the blue hawaii se, one from germany and one from us, that will be the choice in 2013 to serve my 009 and omega mkII.


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## schorsch

Hello karlgerman,
   
  let's have a german headphone meet - I have some of the older Stax models and amps. But I'm really interested in that malvalve amp.
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS I'm located near Kaiserslautern


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## karlgerman

[size=12.571428298950195px]*hi schorsch,*[/size]
[size=12.571428298950195px]*you are nearby at one of the best specialists in hi-fidelity in germany. *[/size]
*[size=12.727272033691406px]Christoph Zingel -[/size]*
*[size=12.727272033691406px]Studio für aktiven Hörgenuss in essen. [/size]*
*[size=12.727272033691406px]this is the man! [/size]*
*[size=12.727272033691406px]in his studio you find evey kind of stax and also the malvalve and more. i think malvalve company is also located in the essen area.[/size]*
*[size=12.727272033691406px]i would love to visit zingels studio but its too far away from bavaria for me. but i talked to christoph zingel on the phone and he helped me with his knowledge a lot. it seems to be a very nice guy. [/size]*
*[size=12.727272033691406px]helping and given information to someone who will be not your customer in near future is seldom in germany.[/size]*
   
*[size=12.727272033691406px]regards karl[/size]*


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## spritzer

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I don't really care that much for reviews.. I'll leave it to my ears for my own review because that is what counts at the end. But the price separation between the Stax gear and others is large (another addition of $3k for most, ~5k$ for the A-10), so obviously the components are quality and the Stax's engineers had their own budget in mind for the 727/007.


 
   
  The budget for the Stax amps is indeed tiny compared to the competition.  The US retail price includes both the dealer and distributor markup on top of what Stax have to get for the amp.


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## Currawong

If you don't listen loud, the Stax amps are fine, as Tyll said. With the 009s you don't need to listen loud at all. At 70-80dB or so I can how far towards the centre or the edge of a cymbal a drummer is hitting with each individual hit on a good recording even using a T1S.


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## Tjj226 Angel

Hey guys, 
   
  I recently heard some stax headphones and I fell in love. Enough said. 
   
  But I am not at a point in my life where I can dump 1-5K on headphones. 
   
  I already have a good audio setup so I am not looking for something that is so great that it can replace my setup, but I would like some electrostatic headphones to play around with, learn a couple of things, and simply enjoy them. I would like something cheap as possible. I am not looking for the 009s on a budget, so anything you recommend I can see if I can snag them at a decent price. (I would like to have it under 100 bucks, and no more than 200). If you find a pair that are broken and destroyed, I can fix them up as well.


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## Yuceka

Quote: 





tjj226 angel said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently heard some stax headphones and I fell in love. Enough said.
> 
> ...


 

 Stax under $100-200? Excuse me but have you done any reading on Stax? If you need something that cheap, you really should look elsewhere. And as for fixing a broken or destroyed pair of Stax, hmmm...


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## Tjj226 Angel

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Stax under $100-200? Excuse me but have you done any reading on Stax? If you need something that cheap, you really should look elsewhere. And as for fixing a broken or destroyed pair of Stax, hmmm...


 
  I chose my words carefully. I said electrostatic headphones. It didn't have to be made by stax. 
   
  To give you an idea, I am the kind of guy who would rather buy something cheap. Learn how it works. And then build something similar to really expensive items on a budget. 
   
  That is why I am looking to play around with something more than actually looking for good audio.


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## wuwhere

Here's a used Stax SR-30. I'm sure it can be had for $100 - $200, shipping included.
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-30-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-NR-/400369992336?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d37e94290


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## arnaud

I'd recommend a read through the DIY Stat thread, one of my favorite head-fi threads besides this one


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## anetode

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Here's a used Stax SR-30. I'm sure it can be had for $100 - $200, shipping included.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-30-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-NR-/400369992336?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d37e94290


 

 Yup, keep your eyes peeled on ebay, you can usually find something from the 70s era for under 200.
   
  Speaking of which, What is this on about?


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## wuwhere

I read about somebody DIYed an esl headphone, he said it sounded like a Stax SR-404. I wonder if he can DIY one that sounds like an SR-009.


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## Tjj226 Angel

Forgive me for being such a noob, but with only 24 hours left on the bidding, can someone possibly give me an idea if http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m103832334 this is any good, and what to look out for in terms of shipping and so forth. I would really appreciate it.


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## n3rdling

You'll probably be happy with any Lambda headphone, but that auction will probably end up higher than your budget allows.  If you don't speak Japanese, you might want to use a third party bidding service to get those for you.  For under $200, I think it's more realistic to expect a SR-5 with SRD-5, which will be a nice intro to electrostats.


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## dukeskd

You can also search eBay for old school Koss electrostatic headphone + amp combos. One of head-fi's members, MuppetFace, has one and says the sound is amazing for the $200 she spent.


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## Headzone

Hey, is it safe to store my SR-202's on my desk, because they have the dust cover (foams) rottened off. I just read that dust can do something bad if it goes to the drivers?


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## rgs9200m

About the Stax 007t/ii amp with the 009s, Tyll says:
   
   
I liked the sound of this amp quite a bit. A sweet and delicate presentation. The bass isn't terribly tight, but it's well proportioned. The mids and treble are lush with a slight warm tilt and slightly rolled-off upper treble. There also seems to be a slight glare in the mid treble that more often than not is heard as a bit of treble sparkle, which is nice as it balances out the slight roll-off of the upper-treble.
   
  I have this combo and with a little help from a warmish power cord on my CD player that still maintains a controlled bass, the 009s sounds great, just great, sweet and delicate like Tyll said, along with extraordinary detail and imaging, layering, and spaciousness. It's a live, real sound. So I would take Tyll's words here to heart on the 007t, as it sounds like what I hear too, and the flaws are pretty small and can be cured (at least I could).
   
  Tyll goes on to say that if you turn the volume up high, the bass get wooly. It's hard to measure, buy I turn them way up as loud as I could stand to listen on the pain threshold, and with those limits the bass is superb, 
  well integrated and very detailed and tight, more detailed and controlled than HD800s.
   
  So I reiterate that the 007t/ii and the 009 are a very fine match, actually amazing for me.


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## Solude

Like all things, superb only describes something until something better is heard.  Which is to say... listen to a BHSE and bring a diaper


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## n3rdling

Changing the power cord of your _CD player_ isn't gonna give your amp more control of the SR-009s bass.


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## gilency

n3rdling said:


> Changing the power cord of your _CD player_ isn't gonna give your amp more control of the SR-009s bass.



Agree with you. I personally have a hard time taking seriously the impressions of anybody who makes those kind of comments.


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## DefQon

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Speaking of which, What is this on about?


 
   
  LOL, I was just looking at that and was thinking to myself....What is going on? SR-X's tend to go for around $150-200 on a fairly good condition unit, but $1000 is just ridiculous
   
  @Tjj226 Angel
   
  Unfortunately ebay listings on older Stax unit's, the prices fluctuate all the time. I've follow ebay everyday on the hunt for another pair of Lambda Pro's within my expenditure as my current pair are fairly beat up (what do you expect for a near 30 year old headphone). I search through the American and Australian ebay domains and I can tell you that for $100-200 total including shipping you won't get a true electrostat can at all.
   
  Massive shame to some seller's milking buyers and collectors upscaling some vintage electrostat (mainly Stax) gear prices over what they are really worth just because it's rare. Don't bother looking at the buy it now listings as most are high priced, auctions give you more luck but just to give you a baseline of how much vintage Stax goes for. Electret SR-30/40's go for around $115-140 excluding shipping mostly poor condition unit's and most of them don't come with the SRD-4 energizer low end Stax electrets run off by stock. The last Lambda Pro that was on audiogon scale of 6/10 was sold for $486 excl shipping, Lambda Signatures usually fetch higher prices somewhere between $400-650 as well as SR-404's. Mind you these prices are usually without it's transformer adapter.
   
  Koss ESP6-7 usually go for around $100-200 mark tops but they don't sound anywhere near as good as even low-end Stax models, if MP really think's the low-end ESP's sound good I want w/e she is smoking because they sound absolute crap until you get to about the ESP-9 model's they sound acceptable.


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## rgs9200m

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Changing the power cord of your _CD player_ isn't gonna give your amp more control of the SR-009s bass.


 
  Well, whatever the cause, I just spent some time to verify how great the 009's sound is (w/my Rhino Ray Charles CD and) and the bass is the kind of bass that makes me forget about speakers,
  really resonant, solid, and transparent. Again, this is with my 007t/ii amp.
  I like to contrast the bass with my LCD3s (w/ a Pinnacle), and the bass presentations are 2 different animals, with the LCD3 a more earth-shaking bass that seems to be more spacious but still 
  detailed and musical, whereas the Stax 009 bass is quicker and more clearly attached to the musical component generating it, so it's more localized, and it's also more defined.
  Both are great, and I love to hear both versions with the same music.
  (My Stealth interconnects also help out the bass a lot. I did some A/B testing of ICs and the Stealths really stand out in the solidity and sheer beauty of the bass, along with the sweetest, pristine upper highs. I did these tests with speakers a few years back and settled on the Stealths for good. Kubala Sosnas were a close runner up.)
   
  I just do not hear the 009/007t bass as wooly, and I know what that means from my former Grado PS1000s and JVC DX1000s (and also somewhat from my Senn 600s).
  The 009s may have a touch, just a fleeting touch of glare on a strong central vocal compared to dynamics (TH900s, LCD3s), but it always seems to disappear somehow after
  about 10 minutes of playing (all Staxes I ever owned -- Omega 1s and Lambdas -- seemed to benefit from playing a while at each session).
   
  And with the Stax 009s, like no other, the sound just seems to dig deep and make the world go away, a trance-like experience. I don't know what it is about these 009s for me,
  but they do the music-as-drug thing like no other phones I have owned (and there have been many over the years).
  (And since this is with the 007t/ii amp, that is why I endorse it so highly.)


----------



## n3rdling

I didn't say the bass on your system isn't good.  Quite the contrary - I think the 009 has phenomenal bass.  However, Tyll's critique of the 007t was *in comparison to other amps* driving the 009s.  Not to other headphones or interconnects.  Which amps have you compared the 007t to when driving the 009s?  I've heard all the amps in Tyll's review and agree with most of his impressions, though he thought more highly of one or two of the amps than I do.  It's all about context.  The DIYT2 is the best amp I've ever heard...before hearing that, the Blue Hawaii was the best at everything I'd heard but I no longer think of it as the absolute ultimate.  If I only heard my 009s with the SRM-1 mk2 then that'd be an ultimate rig in my mind...until I heard the 717...until I heard the KGSS...until I heard the HEV90...until I heard the Blue Hawaii...until I heard the T2...etc


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## Tjj226 Angel

Hey guys, I just realized that those lambdas that I linked are the same ones that I fell in love with the other day. Screw budget. Can someone tell me how to get yahoo japan to work. I sign up for an ID and it seems that using an american zip code isn't working. The auction ends in 8 hours. Please help


----------



## DefQon

Best recommended is to get a proxy done, someone you may know or someone who is willing to help you that lives within Japan. Otherwise your out of luck, not to mention you would need to get in contact with the seller (if they can understand any English at all or so) if they are willing to ship out of Japan or not as some seller's don't want to go through the hassle even if the buyer is paying for shipping at their own expense.


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## rgs9200m

OK, n3rdling, understood! Never did hear a T2, and I have wondered what that would be like. 
  I heard the WES with the 009 and like the wide stage and depth, but did hear too much glare for me.
  I sense that the Stax amps produce a smaller soundfield, and that's good and bad, maybe just an alternative presentation.
  The 007t is kind of an intimate space, not as grand as the WES, but to me it's great for what it is.
   
  I guess the reason I'm commenting so much on this is because I think, although the Blue Hawaii may produce something special,
  I just need to say that the 007t/009 is just something so great and unique to me that I want others here to understand that,
  to at least this pair of ears, with maybe some upstream tweaking, it can achieve true greatness,
  and I guess I just disagree with the idea that the BH or equivalent is a necessity, or that the 007t is not a real contender.
   
  I actually started out thinking the 007t/ii would be a stepping stone to a better amp, but now I don't have the heart to part with it.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> OK, n3rdling, understood! Never did hear a T2, and I have wondered what that would be like.
> I heard the WES with the 009 and like the wide stage and depth, but did hear too much glare for me.
> I sense that the Stax amps produce a smaller soundfield, and that's good and bad, maybe just an alternative presentation.
> The 007t is kind of an intimate space, not as grand as the WES, but to me it's great for what it is.
> ...


 
   
  Yeah, I thought the same thing about my 252S.


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## rgs9200m

OK, I get the message. best to you.


----------



## livewire

My Blue Hawaii is on the way. I will still keep the 252S. It is excellent for a small amp.


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## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> My Blue Hawaii is on the way. I will still keep the 252S. It is excellent for a small amp.


 
   
   
  "Blue Hawaii" - that is such a great name for an amp.  
   
  Can the amp's name make it sound better?  I think that by setting a very positive mental state, one would be inclined to have an overall more positive experience. When you add a wonderful name like "Blue Hawaii" to a very good product - an amp that has a very fine reputation, no doubt well deserved- the name actually does evoke good things. This is not quite the same as sounding better, but owning and listening to a "Blue Hawaii" would be a more positive pleasure than if that same well-designed and well-made amp were named  the "Gassy Wombat"  amp.... or even were it named "ESL-Max" or etc.
   
  "I'm going to listen to the Blue Hawaii now...."  sounds like going on a vacation!
   
  I wish it actually had some pale blue anodized casework parts- but it doesn't, alas.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





tjj226 angel said:


> Hey guys, I just realized that those lambdas that I linked are the same ones that I fell in love with the other day. Screw budget. Can someone tell me how to get yahoo japan to work. I sign up for an ID and it seems that using an american zip code isn't working. The auction ends in 8 hours. Please help


 
   
  Try contacting kuboten.com. I'm not sure if Craig (who runs it) is in Japan at the moment, but regardless, he might still be able to bid on it for you. Importantly, if you win the auction you have to pay for the item, AND for international shipping, as well as shipping to him from the seller.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *rgs9200m*
> 
> 
> ...and I guess I just disagree with the idea that the BH or equivalent is a necessity, or that the 007t is not a real contender.  I actually started out thinking the 007t/ii would be a stepping stone to a better amp, but now I don't have the heart to part with it.


 
   
  Agreed. Of course, any of the top models will be better than a 007t or other current Stax amps. But the 007t is more than capable of giving an enjoyable result in it's own right. And it is more than capable of showing up improvements elsewhere in the chain, such as power cords for the cdp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  I base this on years of pleasurable listening to the 007ti/O2mk1 combination, which some say is a particularly bad combination to have. And yes the bass could have been tighter, and so is not ideal for certain types of music. But, at least at moderate volumes, the bass _texture_ and _detail_ was still above most dynamic rigs, and the all important mid range was pretty good by any standards. 
   
  I'm glad I upgraded to the BHSE, but in no way did I feel my time with the 007t was wasted. Often in forums like head-fi, people get pressurised into becoming dissatisfied with with what they currently have. But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


----------



## Anders

Agree, I also like the 007t, especially with HE60 and small ensemble acoustic music. It has a special charm. BHSE is better but I still think that 007t is a good amp. Bass-heavy music with O2 is not the strong side of 007t but there are other aspects.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





milosz said:


> "I'm going to listen to the Blue Hawaii now...."  sounds like going on a vacation!


 
   
  There is a good reason for that...
   
_The genesis for this hybrid electrostatic headphone amplifier occurred when I was in Hawaii on vacation, at a fancy hotel on Maui. Sitting at the bar on the beach, drinking “Blue Hawaiis,” I drew the schematic for the amp on a placemat. The design is my conception of the mysterious and rare Stax T2 amp, which I have never been able to find at anything resembling a rational price._


----------



## dj nellie

Any more reactions to Tyll's electrostatic amp review?  All things considered, I think the LL came out looking relatively good.  The criticisms he had of the amp didn't seem nearly as indicting as what he had to say about every other amp not named "BHSE."
   
  Without the benefit of having heard other amps, I think his impressions of the LL mostly match mine.  At times, and with certain recordings, the treble can seem slightly fatiguing, but this seems to have diminished with time (and maybe better self-monitoring of the volume).  And while I agree that the amp sounds great with well-recorded high energy music, I actually think the 009/LL combo generally sounds best with classical and acoustic music.
   
  There is a touch of warmth to the LL, but it seems tastefully done and fairly clean.  I haven't noticed any significant upper treble roll-off, but my only true frame of reference would be the UERM, and I haven't done a direct comparison.  It's interesting that Tyll's impressions _seem_ to contradict the anecdotal evidence of the posts I've read comparing the LL and BHSE, in which all but a handful of people seem to have had a slight preference for the LL due to its less fatiguing and warmer nature.  But no one, other than avguide.com, has really done an in-depth comparison (and many of the people who have had both amps have been very guarded with their impressions).
   
  Of course, Tyll's unqualified praise of the BHSE does make it even more tempting.  But for me, having a compact amp with no tubes exposed was a must, so it was really a choice between the LL and the Stax amps.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> Any more reactions to Tyll's electrostatic amp review?  All things considered, I think the LL came out looking relatively good.  The criticisms he had of the amp didn't seem nearly as indicting as what he had to say about every other amp not named "BHSE."
> 
> Without the benefit of having heard other amps, I think his impressions of the LL mostly match mine.  At times, and with certain recordings, the treble can seem slightly fatiguing, but this seems to have diminished with time (and maybe better self-monitoring of the volume).  And while I agree that the amp sounds great with well-recorded high energy music, I actually think the 009/LL combo generally sounds best with classical and acoustic music.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I don't think anyone has ever criticized the sound of the LL. The only negative I've read was what it would cost to build that amp vs what you paid. Not everyone likes totally neutral either, especially the way some CD's are recorded, or the type of music - which is why some people lean towards the side of warm (LL, or WES for lushness). As far as the AVguide review goes, if you look at the numbers and comments they posted, it's really a joke (I read somewhere that a marketing company helped with the review of the LF on the same site (Playback), so who knows).


----------



## Radio_head

There is no LG review on that site.  It's mentioned in the canjam report with a short blurb, but is buried on page 4 of 5.
   
  I personally don't put much stock by the avguide review either way, seems like they were off on more than one point and I don't think they heard them all side by side (let alone having different reviewers doing the different reviews and them comparing them retroactively to what other reviewers said about other amps.)  Tyll definitely had everything at once, is intimately familiar with headphones (though perhaps less so with stats than other headphones) and the market.


----------



## MorbidToaster

golfnutz said:


> I don't think anyone has ever criticized the sound of the LL. The only negative I've read was what it would cost to build that amp vs what you paid. Not everyone likes totally neutral either, especially the way some CD's are recorded, or the type of music - which is why some people lean towards the side of warm (LL, or WES for lushness). As far as the AVguide review goes, if you look at the numbers and comments they posted, it's really a joke (I read somewhere that a marketing company helped with the review of the LG on the same site, so who knows).




Alex honestly isn't making enough money on the LL to even think about Cavalli Audio as a full time business right now.

As for 'helping his review' (which doesn't exist). He can't afford nor needs to pay for good reviews and I'm sure Justin doesn't need to either.


----------



## Solude

Guess it depends what you think your full time effort is worth because there is no way there is $2750 more parts cost in this...
   

   
   
  Than this...


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





solude said:


> Guess it depends what you think your full time effort is worth because there is no way there is $3000 more parts cost in this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Good thing too, as it doesn't cost $3000 more.  (Unless you are assuming the next run, which is rumored to me more expensive, but was also rumored to have updated looks.
   
  Alex is not making nearly as much on these units as people think he is. Parts themselves have a certain cost, but things like assembly (he gets this done at a top notch assembly place), custom chassis and transformer costs, and small touches like the custom piezo and knob done by an auto paint shop add up.  Obviously it will be nowhere near the cost of DIY, but that's what businesses need to do to remain solvent- they need to make money.
   
  I don't know what Justin's markup was on the KGSS but I have a feeling that to make it worth his while doing a KGSSHV in the future he would charge at least $4000 (with great build quality I am sure.)


----------



## MorbidToaster

Tyll seems to know something as his review pegs it at '~5k'. Wouldn't surprised me if all the amps went up due to new casework (as well as things like a new PSU in the new LF) and the simple fact he's probably trying to keep the business a-float.
   
  The fact he sells direct for the most part makes his profit margins even smaller (as it does for anyone with a small company that does this). 
   
  EDIT: The fact that he only does high end amps makes it tough as well. They're much harder to sell enough of to survive than a few more 'affordable' products.
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Good thing too, as it doesn't cost $3000 more.  (Unless you are assuming the next run, *which is rumored to me more expensive, but was also rumored to have updated looks.*
> 
> Alex is not making nearly as much on these units as people think he is. Parts themselves have a certain cost, but things like assembly (he gets this done at a top notch assembly place), custom chassis and transformer costs, and small touches like the custom piezo and knob done by an auto paint shop add up.  Obviously it will be nowhere near the cost of DIY, but that's what businesses need to do to remain solvent- they need to make money.
> 
> I don't know what Justin's markup was on the KGSS but I have a feeling that to make it worth his while doing a KGSSHV in the future he would charge at least $4000 (with great build quality I am sure.)


----------



## Radio_head

Selling direct increases your margin. Selling through distributors may end up giving you more sales, but the margins are smaller unless you drastically increase price, distributors and dealers take a huge chunk.  As long as you don't have to pay for a storefront dealing direct is the best way to keep all costs down and give customers a better price, especially on a product with smaller runs.
   
  Rumors are just that - rumors.  I wouldn't assume anything about pricing and availability until pre-orders are open for a product.  Heck, Craig told me the Electra would be $2200 in its first iteration.  Fast forward and its looking like $3500 first run but who knows, that could still go up.


----------



## schorsch

dear karlgerman,
   
  I've telephoned malvalve and askes if I could test their amp with my phones. THey told me that this is possible. But it is still a little bit far away. I hope I'll come there in summer.
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> There is no LG review on that site.  It's mentioned in the canjam report with a short blurb, but is buried on page 4 of 5.
> 
> I personally don't put much stock by the avguide review either way, seems like they were off on more than one point and I don't think they heard them all side by side (let alone having different reviewers doing the different reviews and them comparing them retroactively to what other reviewers said about other amps.)  Tyll definitely had everything at once, is intimately familiar with headphones (though perhaps less so with stats than other headphones) and the market.


 
  Thanks. I meant the LF review on Playback (same company as AVguide). You can read it on Audio Marketmakers home page.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Selling direct increases your margin. Selling through distributors may end up giving you more sales, but the margins are smaller unless you drastically increase price, distributors and dealers take a huge chunk.  As long as you don't have to pay for a storefront dealing direct is the best way to keep all costs down and give customers a better price, especially on a product with smaller runs.


 
   
  Yup.
   
  --
   
  I know it does no good to whine that amp X didn't make the showdown, but anyway, I do lament that a KGGSHV didn't.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Good thing too, as it doesn't cost $3000 more.


 
   
  Fixed, only $2750 more


----------



## MorbidToaster

radio_head said:


> Selling direct increases your margin. Selling through distributors may end up giving you more sales, but the margins are smaller unless you drastically increase price, distributors and dealers take a huge chunk.  As long as you don't have to pay for a storefront dealing direct is the best way to keep all costs down and give customers a better price, especially on a product with smaller runs.
> 
> Rumors are just that - rumors.  I wouldn't assume anything about pricing and availability until pre-orders are open for a product.  Heck, Craig told me the Electra would be $2200 in its first iteration.  Fast forward and its looking like $3500 first run but who knows, that could still go up.




To an extent but depending on the increase in volume it could help make more money. Not that it really matters much. The bottom line is that he's not making much money with his current setup.


----------



## Radio_head

How much was the KGSS? I remember it being 2K but maybe my memory is off.  LL was $4250.


----------



## Solude

$1500 originally, $1800 when it was dropped.


----------



## Yuceka

If one is not able to do DIY how can a KGSS be had? Does Justin still make one upon request?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> If one is not able to do DIY how can a KGSS be had? Does Justin still make one upon request?


 
   
  Be patient, wait and buy a used one.
   
  No, he does not build them anymore.


----------



## Currawong

Solude: Design, build and market your own estat amp for what you think is a reasonable price and do a consistent job of it. If you can do that, turn a profit and feed yourself (and any family you have to support) we'll be ecstatic. The cost of these things isn't in the parts inside, just as the costs in any product you buy in a store aren't in the materials alone.


----------



## Tyll Hertsens

^^^A big plus one on that.


----------



## Solude

I believe audio products should be priced according to their performance among the competition.  If you believe the LL is worth three times the retail price of the KGSS while HeadAmp sold them, have at it.  And likewise if you think the LL performs at the same level of the BHSE... it's your money.  Was surprised to see Tyll not scope the group though.  Would have been interesting to see if the stax mafia data matched an 'independent' lab's results.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





solude said:


> I believe audio products should be priced according to their performance *among the competition*.  If you believe the LL is worth three times the retail price of the KGSS while HeadAmp sold them, have at it.  And likewise if you think the LL performs at the same level of the BHSE... it's your money.  Was surprised to see Tyll not scope the group though.  Would have been interesting to see if the stax mafia data matched an 'independent' lab's results.


 
  The key words are among the competition.  The LL is not "competing" with the KGSS as it was out of production by the time it was released.  At $4250 is it worth two thirds of the cost of a fully decked out BHSE (6K+ decent tubes)?  I think that would be a fairer comparison.  
   
  If the competition can include discontinued products, then it could include DIY efforts - heck, someone just sold a nice KGSSHV on the forums for $1850.  Is the LL "worth" it compared to that?  I would say not.  But that is not what it is competing with.  So compared to the solid state Stax offerings, which are its only currently commercially available competition?  Quite a bit better.  Whether its 3K better is obviously up to the buyer to decide.


----------



## gilency

currawong said:


> Solude: Design, build and market your own estat amp for what you think is a reasonable price and do a consistent job of it. If you can do that, turn a profit and feed yourself (and any family you have to support) we'll be ecstatic. The cost of these things isn't in the parts inside, just as the costs in any product you buy in a store aren't in the materials alone.



Wise words written by a wiseman. Seriously, try to build not one, but many, while at the same time selling a reliable product to a finicky customer. Good luck with that, especially with electrostatics. There is a reason why there are not many builders. Justin builds superb products. Although I don't know Cavalli's products well, I am willing to bet he is also very good at what he does. 
There was a guy here last year who tried to make money selling expensive DIY KGSSHV whose quality was dismal. 
I doubt you can make a living selling for less.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Solude: Design, build and market your own estat amp for what you think is a reasonable price and do a consistent job of it. If you can do that, turn a profit and feed yourself (and any family you have to support) we'll be ecstatic. The cost of these things isn't in the parts inside, just as the costs in any product you buy in a store aren't in the materials alone.


 
   
  I still have to get those boards and whatever spares you don't off ya'. The recent KGSSHV ad on the forums got that fire burning again.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Nice to see there's a few voices of reason around here...


----------



## jaycalgary

"The recent KGSSHV ad on the forums got that fire burning again."
  Not sure why one thing leads to another but that ad was a lot of the reason I pulled the pin on a pair of 009s.


----------



## Currawong

morbidtoaster said:


> Nice to see there's a few voices of reason around here...


   

   
  I think people don't realise how much it takes to actually start a business building and selling audio gear, or even just start a business and must imagine it is just soldering parts on a board and throwing it all in a box. Maybe we should encourage Solude to DIY a KGSSHV at least. I think then he'll gain an appreciation of what a PITA it is to do a single amp, let alone a bunch of them. 
   
  Quote: 





solude said:


> I believe audio products should be priced according to their performance among the competition.  If you believe the LL is worth three times the retail price of the KGSS while HeadAmp sold them, have at it.  And likewise if you think the LL performs at the same level of the BHSE... it's your money.  Was surprised to see Tyll not scope the group though.  Would have been interesting to see if the stax mafia data matched an 'independent' lab's results.


 
   
  I think Head-Fi members should be graded on their ability to accurately respond to a post addressing what was said and not the imagined implication. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I'm due to do another big Mouser order and sort out ordering all the sand too, so feel free to bug me via iMessage.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> I still have to get those boards and whatever spares you don't off ya'. The recent KGSSHV ad on the forums got that fire burning again.


 
  Heck, if that sell encourages more DIY builds, that, to me, is worth more than anything else.
  I strongly encourage you guys to get your feet wet on doing a few builds. Start with a simple Cmoy then go from there.
  It is very satisfying to make something that works.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





tjj226 angel said:


> I chose my words carefully. I said electrostatic headphones. It didn't have to be made by stax.
> 
> To give you an idea, I am the kind of guy who would rather buy something cheap. Learn how it works. And then build something similar to really expensive items on a budget.
> 
> That is why I am looking to play around with something more than actually looking for good audio.


 

 See if you can stretch to about $500 and wait for a Koss ESP950 setup on the used forum. One was offered in late October by K_19. Since it include an "amp," this should be in your price range.
  I had these 20 yrs ago and still have very fond feelings about them and liked them a lot better than the HD600s I tried later on. Good luck.
   
  Also, the magnetic planars are similar to stat phones, so there is the Hifiman route, also maybe used.


----------



## Radio_head

For those who don't keep up with the Electra thread, it is now available for pre-order:
   
  http://www.eddiecurrent.com/Electra.html
   
  $3500 includes all 8 tubes, Jentzen silver caps adds $50.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> For those who don't keep up with the Electra thread, it is now available for pre-order:
> 
> http://www.eddiecurrent.com/Electra.html
> 
> $3500 includes all 8 tubes, Jentzen silver caps adds $50.


 
   
  That's pretty decent pricing. Wonder who's going to be the first guinea pig to give this a shot and compare it against the BHSE, LL, and WES.


----------



## Solude

Oh that looks promising =)  So glad the original concept got tossed.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> That's pretty decent pricing. Wonder who's going to be the first guinea pig to give this a shot and compare it against the BHSE, LL, and WES.


 
  I can think of at least two members who will have the big three of BHSE, Electra, LL.  Don't know if they'll compare though.


----------



## Donnyhifi

hmmm, tempting!
   
  Pricing is looking great when compared to the other big players, it will be interesting to see how this one compares to the rest of the field.


----------



## arnaud

Sean, considering I am getting the BHSE, I see no other option than you get the electra and we prepare for a fun spring headphone gathering .


----------



## preproman

Sub.


----------



## pkshan

The detail level of lambda signature is amazing,
  (I thought the LS were somewhat dirty,veiled at the beginning, I was wrong)
  they are so transparent, mellower and life-like.the sound textures are real from LS
   
  on the other hand the 507...I thought they were transparent,clean, I was wrong again,
  I feel the 507 are a little veiled now,& there are some harshness in the entire FR compare to the LS
  ( 507 are good cans,but the LS are just amazing)
   
  But the signature "etch" sometimes annoy me
  Any other lambda sound life-like like the LS? lambda normal bias?
  (I don't care much on the bass impact or FR extensions)
  thanks


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Sean, considering I am getting the BHSE, I see no other option than you get the electra and we prepare for a fun spring headphone gathering .


 
   
  I was just toying with that idea!! You with the BHSE, DonnyHifi with the LL, The_member_formerly_known_as_Wallabie (a.k.a. YD) with the Woo WES, me with the Electra! But alas according to MF, the $3500 is only for the first 10 then the price jumps up.


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The detail level of lambda signature is amazing,
> (I thought the LS were somewhat dirty,veiled at the beginning, I was wrong)
> they are so transparent, mellower and life-like.the sound textures are real from LS
> 
> ...


 
  January 5th theres a meet in Cambridge Mass, there will be an sr5 and a NB lambda and an 003 there if you'd like to stop in and listen. rsvp in the meets section.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  It would be hilarious if we could go to the meet in May with 3 top 'stat amps in one room...if we could fit them!


----------



## Rico613

Hi All,
   
  I'm still catching up on the last 20 or so pages of this thread, so I hope I'm not covering old ground . . .
   
  I recently picked up STAX SR-007 mk2 and I'm looking for a good amp to drive it.  Some people like the BHSE since it over comes the 'darkness' of the 007s.  I'm not sure what the darkness is . . . but I'm wondering if the SR-007s are inherently better with tube amps over SS.  Then I was thinking, if that is the case, then maybe the SR-007t II would be a less expensive way of driving these.  But one guy said the SR-007t II 'the worst' because of 'bad tubes', while others seemed to like it with the SR-007.
   
  Anyway, I'm wide open for suggestions . . .
   
  Thanks in advance . . .
   
  Rich


----------



## livewire

Get the BHSE - do away with the doubt.
  No bad tubes, no more darkness, what more could one want?
   
  Iffin you get the 007 for yer 007 you may like it, you may not. 
  Even if you like it, you will still want to get a BHSE because it is the best of the best.
   
  Of course if you could go to a meet or visit someone who has these amps, you would then know after a listen or two.
  Just my measly two cents.


----------



## padam

An SRM-323S is a good sounding budget amp.
  And the SZ3 SR007 Mk2 is not that dark sounding but in my opinion it has other "issues" which a powerful amp may not just "fix".


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





padam said:


> An SRM-323S is a good sounding budget amp.
> And the SZ3 SR007 Mk2 is not that dark sounding but in my opinion it has other "issues" which a powerful amp may not just "fix".


 

 Oh no . .  . Issues !!!???  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . .  .  for example . . . ?  (not looking for more 'issues', got enough of my own . . )


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> Oh no . .  . Issues !!!???
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Issues? For one it's not a SR-009.
   
  Alas - then some say that it has issues too. (treble happy and ridiculously expensive)
  There is no "perfect" headphone, you cant please everyone.
  If it sounds good to you, then it should be a "keeper".


----------



## padam

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> Oh no . .  . Issues !!!???
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  It is not easy to describe from memory but it inherited the somewhat woolly bass response from other Omega IIs (but I'm quickly adding that I've never heard a properly driven one) as well as some of the glare that is usually present in most Lambdas.
  That said I heard and owned many other Stax headphones and our hearing is always affected by previous experiences, so others might really like it.


----------



## Rico613

Maybe I should be asking, what would be the best amp for both the SR-007 mk2 AND the SR-009 ??  ( I think there could be a SR-009 in my near future 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## padam

You can read this one, it is a well-written comparison.


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





padam said:


> You can read this one, it is a well-written comparison.


 

 WOW . . .  just what I was looking for, thanks . . .
   
  Thanks all . . .


----------



## tigermilk

So I dropped my 404s, thankfully on the carpet, but I busted one of the small pegs on the "case holder".  I'm trying a little gluing op first, but in the worst case, is there a potentially better place for replacement parts than "Stax USA" as Yamas never gets high marks.  Wouldn't mind if it was cheaper too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If I do order there (or other place), I was thinking of replacing the dust covers as I can see through them in spots.  $25 for them seems a bit steep.  Any DIY homebrew fixes out there?


----------



## Quest88

Have a question on maintenance - my stax airbow ac-1s started to creak abit at the joints.. almost as though the plastic is getting abit harder and less flexible.
   
  Anyone encountered and have a quick fix?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tigermilk said:


> So I dropped my 404s, thankfully on the carpet, but I busted one of the small pegs on the "case holder".  I'm trying a little gluing op first, but in the worst case, is there a potentially better place for replacement parts than "Stax USA" as Yamas never gets high marks.  Wouldn't mind if it was cheaper too
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Other than Yamas, you can try the F/S section here but it's a hit and miss that somebody will turn up with spare 404 parts. All the headbands within the Lambda frame series earspeakers are interchangeable with each other. Last option would be ebay, there is a seller from Japan that sell's vintage and very rare Nakamichi, Stax and other Japanese made audioware, I've seen him stock some NOS Lamda Signature frames + headbands before as well cables but they go for a little premium.
   
  Quote: 





quest88 said:


> Have a question on maintenance - my stax airbow ac-1s started to creak abit at the joints.. almost as though the plastic is getting abit harder and less flexible.
> 
> Anyone encountered and have a quick fix?


 
   
  I've used Singer sewing machine oil on my Lambda Pro's, it stops the creaking for a bit, but eventually it returns again.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





quest88 said:


> Have a question on maintenance - my stax airbow ac-1s started to creak abit at the joints.. almost as though the plastic is getting abit harder and less flexible.
> 
> Anyone encountered and have a quick fix?


 
   
  Try talcum powder


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





tigermilk said:


> So I dropped my 404s, thankfully on the carpet, but I busted one of the small pegs on the "case holder".  I'm trying a little gluing op first, but in the worst case, is there a potentially better place for replacement parts than "Stax USA" as Yamas never gets high marks.  Wouldn't mind if it was cheaper too
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Stax USA are quite good to deal with AFAIC. You'll need to buy a suitable punch to knock the small pin out of the frame before you can remove the case holder.


----------



## K_19

So many pages back I was saying how the 007 MK1's comfort factor was only average, as I thought they clamp down a tad too much down on the side of my face. As suggested I bent the arcs lessening the clamping pressure and that helped, but still I had this feeling that there was bit too much pressure on my cheekbones... 
   
  And about a week ago I wore them backwards (R side on the left, L on the right) and found them suddenly VERY comfortable with very little clamping then I finally realized what was causing the discomfort - the foams inside the pads on the bottom part was shot! The pads on the outside looked fine so I thought there was nothing wrong with them, but the padding must have gave way with many years of wearing of something. Since the pads pressure the bottom part of your cheeks harder they probably gave way first, making the pads' cushioning uneven.  The top part of the pads still had plenty of cushioning.
   
  So my temporary solution for now is to wear them backwards, which really doesn't matter with the 007's as they're completely rotatable/symmetrical and doesn't make a difference (just have to swap the R & L of the interconnects to match the channels in this orientation).  Now they're incredibly comfortable... as a matter of fact, now I feel the clamping is too little and may bend the arcs again to increase it. I'll likely buy new pads, but apparently pad swapping on these are quite a pain so I'm somewhat afraid to do it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  But yeah, if anyone finds their pair of 007's uncomfortable try wearing them backwards. They may look fine from the outside, but the foam inside may be shot resulting in harder clamping feel on the bottom of your jaw.


----------



## n3rdling

What would be an appropriate foam to put inside the O2 earpads so that they don't wear out so quickly?  It's one of the only headphones I can think of whose pads just turn to crap after 2-3 years.


----------



## spritzer

Not sure but what ever they put in the Mk2 pads will work.  I've been using them for 4 years now and they are as new.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Alright guys. It's officially for sale. My 009 and LL. it's been a fun ride but not being able to hear the music beyond splash from the 009 is bugging the wife(ish)...so we're reinvesting in speakers and downgrading the headphones.


----------



## hpz

*Mini  Review between the Woo WEE and the DIY T2 using the SR-009s.*
*Background*
  I have been using the Resonessence labs Invicta dac as my primary source and I am using a Rotel  RB1080 power amp to power the Woo WEE.  I have had this setup for a little over 2 months and I am quite familiar and happy with the sound.  But of course as the curious audiophiles we are, I wanted to listen to what could be the 'best' amplification out there, the almighty DIY T2. I know the comparison won't be fair, but I wanted to do this comparison to share my experiences with fellow stats members who are in similar situations.
   
_So here we go: WEE vs T2  _
   
*Highs*
  I started by playing through a few string orchestral songs and the first thing that caught my ears was how refined the highs sounded on the T2. The T2 interestingly had an overall less bright presentation than the WEE (which now sounded alittle forced and harsh), more effortless is how I would describe the T2 sound.  This refinement in the highs pulled out even smaller micro detail within the music.  It was more natural/easier to listen through the T2. 
   
*Mids*
  Now playing through a few vocal tracks, the mids were already exceptional via the WEE and the T2 to my ears didn't really improve much.  But because the T2 was less bright, some of the female vocals which were sibilant in certain tracks were less pronounced on the T2, but overall both amps performed exceptionally well.
   
*Lows*
  Now onto some bass heavy tracks, drums were more well defined and the transient response of the T2 really shined here.  Bass lines were slightly punchier and tighter on the T2 whereas the WEE was a little slower and 'bloomy'.  The differences were noticeable, but sometimes the WEE bloom was actually good on certain tracks because the T2's bass decay became so quick it felt that it was alittle lean sometimes.  I felt that the impact and slam of the bass to be similar between the two setups.  Don't get me wrong, the bass definition and quality of bass from the T2 was outstanding, but the overall amount may be a little less than some people might prefer.
   
  I'm not good at describing soundstage, but I didn't think either amp was better or worse at it. 
   
*Conclusion*
  Overall, the presentation of the T2 sounded better than the WEE, but unfortunately it fell alittle short of what I was expecting.  Was it the best combo I have heard sound on? Yes, but the differences are getting small at this level of the game. Going from a cheap converter to a TOTL electrostatic amp, I may have put my expectations too high, but I was hoping the T2 could power the bass a little stronger and provide stronger impact and slam.
  That concludes my short time with the  T2, these were my own impressions and I'm sure that if I had more time with the T2 I would be able to pick out more details.  And of course I would like to thank nattonrice for allowing me to audition the T2 amp.
   
  Here is a picture to show you guys it did happen and it wasn't just in my dream


----------



## wuwhere

Nice review hpz, if I ever get into Stax, all I need is a Wee since I already have tube speakers amps.


----------



## Radio_head

That would be awesome even if it was just a dream.  Did you build your own T2 or buy/borrow?  I know there's another Australian member (nattonrice maybe?) who has a T2 in Aus.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> That would be awesome even if it was just a dream.  Did you build your own T2 or buy/borrow?  I know there's another Australian member (nattonrice maybe?) who has a T2 in Aus.


 
   
  That's what he said, _*"And of course I would like to thank nattonrice for allowing me to audition the T2 amp."*_


----------



## hpz

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Nice review hpz, if I ever get into Stax, all I need is a Wee since I already have tube speakers amps.


 
   
  This is with the SR-009s,  I know these are easier to drive than the 007s so amping different headphones will give varying results.
   
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> That would be awesome even if it was just a dream.  Did you build your own T2 or buy/borrow?  I know there's another Australian member (nattonrice maybe?) who has a T2 in Aus.


 
   
  This amp is nattonrice's T2 as mentioned at the end of the review.


----------



## Radio_head

Wow, totally missed that line.  I have the flu but thats not an excuse for totally spacing out and then posting.  Posting sick and posting drunk aren't that much different.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Wow, totally missed that line.  I have the flu but thats not an excuse for totally spacing out and then posting.  Posting sick and posting drunk aren't that much different.


 
   
  They happen. Happened to me. No big deal.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Alright guys. It's officially for sale. My 009 and LL. it's been a fun ride but not being able to hear the music beyond splash from the 009 is bugging the wife(ish)...so we're reinvesting in speakers and downgrading the headphones.


 
  Sorry to hear that. My wife will need to pry my 009s from my cold, dead hands.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Well you already have the damn speakers I'm buying.
   
  I'd keep them if we could afford both! 
   
  It'll be okay. Getting the Leben 300XS so a prime headamp if happening as well as a good speaker amp.
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Sorry to hear that. My wife will need to pry my 009s from my cold, dead hands.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Well you already have the damn speakers I'm buying.
> 
> I'd keep them if we could afford both!
> 
> It'll be okay. Getting the Leben 300XS so a prime headamp if happening as well as a good speaker amp.


 
  What speakers if you don't mind me asking? Vapors from Ryan by any chance?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Harbeth HL5s. 
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> What speakers if you don't mind me asking? Vapors from Ryan by any chance?


----------



## n3rdling

Have you heard the Leben or are you buying that component blindly?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Harbeth HL5s.


 
  I had them for a few years. Very nice. Great imaging. Used my B52 for a preamp.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Auditioned the entire system multiple times now. Though I'll be A/Bing the Leben and Line Magnetic 218 one more time before actually handing over the money. 
   
  Why do you ask? Just wondering. I've had a few people ask me this. 
   
  Today the Line Magnetic seemed slightly more thin and distorted than the Leben. The Leben was more full sounding and while slightly rolled off in the highs it did modern music better because of this. 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Have you heard the Leben or are you buying that component blindly?


----------



## DefQon

Anyone willing to sell or know a place where I can source a replacement cable for the SR-001's used or brand new? I've posted in the Cables F/S section so if any of you Stax guru's here know where I can get some (looking at the Stax mafia) can be either the SR-003 pro-bias termination or just the SRM-001 portable adapter one. Audiocubes doesn't seem to stock any besides an interconnect they mention on the site which has no picture.


----------



## yawg

I had the ECD-1 a few years back. It was easily beaten by my later Arcam CD-23 CD-player (resolution-wise, the bass was better on the Electrocompaniet). But the best up to now is stlll my Cayin DA-2 which I retro-fitted with NOS Siemens/Halske CCa tubes. Better resolution even than the Arcam and the best bass. Even a very expensive Audio Note DAC couldn't beat it ...
   
  Just my 2 cents.


----------



## The Monkey

I still love the ECD-1


----------



## yawg

So the bass is again in a box. I prefer my Maggies, no box. OK, they need oodles of power to drive and their XOs are crap. You have to invest a little know-how and money ...


----------



## tigermilk

I was in Japan a few months ago and picked up a clearance SRS-005S set (already have one SRS-005 set for the office and a 006/404 setup for the home office).  Was originally going to sell the new one (got a smoking deal on it) but decided to keep it.  I'm not an electrical guru, so I don't know what type of wallwart to pick up.  Per the recommendations on head-fi, on the previous one I picked up a Jameco wart, but that one is no longer in production.  I can get a similar one from Jameco, but it's unregulated versus the regulated wall wart from the past.  Anyone know if unregulated will be an issue for this Japanese market 252S amp?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Auditioned the entire system multiple times now. Though I'll be A/Bing the Leben and Line Magnetic 218 one more time before actually handing over the money.
> 
> Why do you ask? Just wondering. I've had a few people ask me this.
> 
> Today the Line Magnetic seemed slightly more thin and distorted than the Leben. The Leben was more full sounding and while slightly rolled off in the highs it did modern music better because of this.


 
   
  A number of people whose ears I generally agree with have commented that it sounds pretty bad is all.


----------



## Radio_head

There have also been QC issues with a few units here.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Yeah, I'll be auditioning it again before buying (more closely next time)...but to me it sounds pretty great. Should be hearing it's headphone amp again as well next time with HD800s and LCD 2.2s. 
   
  Unfortunately the Line Magnetic has no headphone section. The wife isn't a fan looks wise of the Leben, but she likes the 'all in one' idea of it having a headphone amp. 
   
  There were some new tubes in the 218 so that could've been part of the problem. We'll see. 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> A number of people whose ears I generally agree with have commented that it sounds pretty bad is all.


----------



## verber

whenever I compare components I try to level match them.  For headphones I normally I play pink noise, place a sound pressure meter approx where my ear would be, and adjust gain until the headphones produce the same reading.  After I have done this the headphones have sounded subjectively at the same level except one case, when comparing SR-007 to HD800.  The SR007 always sounds significantly louder.  It seems my perception is  that SR-007 are 4-5db louder.  My theory is that the SR-007 seals more tightly though I don't remember this being a problem with closed headphones I tried a while ago. Any suggestions about how to do a better job without getting a manakin head and/or why my subjective is very different from my attempt at being analytical.
   
  Random side note... wherever I place the mic inside the SR-007 I see a normal distribution of pink noise, within the HD800 depending on the position I see frequency bands that seem quite suppressed.
   
  --Mark


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Alright guys. It's officially for sale. My 009 and LL. it's been a fun ride but not being able to hear the music beyond splash from the 009 is bugging the wife(ish)...so we're reinvesting in speakers and downgrading the headphones.


 
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Sorry to hear that. My wife will need to pry my 009s from my cold, dead hands.


 
   
  I told a lady friend about this and she responded:
   
  Quote: 





> Refreshing to know that one guy in the world listens to his wife!


 
   
  I wonder what that means?


----------



## MorbidToaster

It's not necessarily about 'listening' to her...It's about wanting her to enjoy music as much as I do. The 009s have made me feel a bit selfish over the last few months because the more head time they get, the more isolated I was being towards spending time with her. 
   
  Also, it's sold already. Official once the wire come through. Didn't expect someone to drop that kind of cash this fast. lol


----------



## MorbidToaster

What kind of issues? I've heard nothing but good things about them build wise.
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> There have also been QC issues with a few units here.


----------



## Radio_head

http://www.head-fi.org/t/575746/lebens-owners-request-what-i-found-inside-my-leben-cs-300x-limited
   
  A few people had varying issues on this thread, the most striking is mwilson had serious problems with two separate units from his dealer.  If you're dealing direct with a dealer, they shouldn't be an issue to return if there is a problem, but it does say something about the state of their build quality/QC/what have you.


----------



## MorbidToaster

This is a bit troubling, but I will be buying from a local dealer so any issues will go straight to him. He popped the hood for me last time I went and showed me the craftsmanship and it looked top notch to me. If I end up with one the first thing I might do because of this is pop the hood and make sure all is well. 
   
  It's always hard to judge with companies that do small things like this because you get a few people with issues a year ago and there's no telling what's changed since then (for better or worse).
   
  I also think mwilson just has really terrible karma in general.  Clayton SF seems to like his experiences enough to have upgraded to the CS600 at this point. 
   
  Thanks for bringing this my attention though. Any chance you have info on Line Magnetic's QC? 
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/575746/lebens-owners-request-what-i-found-inside-my-leben-cs-300x-limited
> 
> A few people had varying issues on this thread, the most striking is mwilson had serious problems with two separate units from his dealer.  If you're dealing direct with a dealer, they shouldn't be an issue to return if there is a problem, but it does say something about the state of their build quality/QC/what have you.


----------



## Radio_head

All I've heard about Line Magnetic is that its fairly priced and has surprisingly good build for a Chinese product, but I've never heard one of their amps myself. Its one of those things that just hasn't had enough exposure yet to hear both the good and the bad, you're still just hearing the great show reports and people who went to their dealers and were impressed, etc.  That doesn't mean its not good, but with new speaker amp companies I personally like to wait around until the company has gestated enough in the public's intestinal tract to have a goodly amount of "real world" impressions.  Just my personal preference though.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/575746/lebens-owners-request-what-i-found-inside-my-leben-cs-300x-limited
> 
> A few people had varying issues on this thread, the most striking is mwilson had serious problems with two separate units from his dealer.  If you're dealing direct with a dealer, they shouldn't be an issue to return if there is a problem, but it does say something about the state of their build quality/QC/what have you.


 
   
  They should be using better soldering irons.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Leben sounded better first go round but I'll be giving the LM another shot. 
   
  The 218i is 80lbs or so so build quality seems great after handling one myself. It fits a ton of tubes as well which is nice...but the Leben is a good headamp along with the rest. 
   
  I'd like to give the LM a little more time to hear back from new owners, but it and the Leben are really my only options at this point and I'll be ordering fairly soon. 
   
  Thanks for helping even though it's the Stax thread.  
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> All I've heard about Line Magnetic is that its fairly priced and has surprisingly good build for a Chinese product, but I've never heard one of their amps myself. Its one of those things that just hasn't had enough exposure yet to hear both the good and the bad, you're still just hearing the great show reports and people who went to their dealers and were impressed, etc.  That doesn't mean its not good, but with new speaker amp companies I personally like to wait around until the company has gestated enough in the public's intestinal tract to have a goodly amount of "real world" impressions.  Just my personal preference though.


----------



## arnaud

verber said:


> whenever I compare components I try to level match them.  For headphones I normally I play pink noise, place a sound pressure meter approx where my ear would be, and adjust gain until the headphones produce the same reading.  After I have done this the headphones have sounded subjectively at the same level except one case, when comparing SR-007 to HD800.  The SR007 always sounds significantly louder.  It seems my perception is  that SR-007 are 4-5db louder.  My theory is that the SR-007 seals more tightly though I don't remember this being a problem with closed headphones I tried a while ago. Any suggestions about how to do a better job without getting a manakin head and/or why my subjective is very different from my attempt at being analytical.
> 
> Random side note... wherever I place the mic inside the SR-007 I see a normal distribution of pink noise, within the HD800 depending on the position I see frequency bands that seem quite suppressed.
> 
> --Mark




Because of wild variations between headphones frequency response, it's no surprise you run into such issues Mark. Tyll and other headphone testers have similar issue with overlaying various phones response curves.

From a conversation in a different forum, I was told about new standards coming into place for the estimation of audio program loudness: http://tech.ebu.ch/loudness

Although I haven't checked in detail, from the conversation we had on this french audio forum, it would boil down to measuring the B-weigthed SPL (maybe your meter has this function?) with a pink noise input. I have listed the norms below:

This one has additional processing accounting for diffraction effects from the head (in order to estimate the perceived loudness from the multichannel audio programme), which you can ignore, but appendix 1, section 2 is interesting: http://www.itu.int/rec/R-REC-BS.1770-3-201208-I/en

This one relates to non-stationary signals (audio programmes) so it can be ignored I assume:
http://tech.ebu.ch/docs/tech/tech3342.pdf

In summary, I would attempt to measure B-weigthed loudness using pink noise input, which would be miles better than matching SPL for single tone (like 1kHz or 250Hz), as this absolutely does not take care of level matching.


----------



## arnaud

This seems quite instructive, the first pages give a background about perceived loudness. Figure 7 illustrates the various weighting curves, including the Reveised B Weighting curve recommended above: http://www.speech.kth.se/prod/publications/files/3098.pdf

Personally, I would try B or A weighted SPL, probably A-weighted is available on any sound level meter. I have a gut feeling A-weighting would be much more useful than the other (my understanding is that B and C weightings were defined for louder than normal stimuli) for normalizing headphone response. I wonder if you've tried it Mark?


----------



## tiberiuspv

Note: not really appropriate for the Stax thread, just following up on MorbidToaster question...
   
  I have a Leben CS600 driving Devore O/96 and I am very happy with the sound quality on the speakers. The headphone output is also excellent, but I have had an issue with the HD800 due to its high sensitivity. There is a slightly perceptible buzz on the right channel which is audible only when no music is playing (not volume dependent).This buzz can also be heard on the right speaker one or two inches from the speaker (but not from a normal listening position). I don't think you would hear it on the Harbeth HL5 which are much less sensitive than the O/96. It does not show up on less sensitive headphones (e.g. AKG K702). It is most likely an output transformer wire going too close to one of the power transformers or the power supply tube, but I have been too lazy to open up the CS600 to check on this theory 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 - the beast is quite heavy.
   
  I solved the problem by putting a small resistor dividing bridge inside the TRS plug of an extension cord to reduce the headphone sensitivity by about 8-10 dB - buzz is completely gone without affecting the very nice sound tonality. This also give a better volume knob level for normal listening on the HD800, which is the only headphone I use on the Leben. Some people have been complaining of the same buzz issue on the CS300, and I assume a similar approach would work just fine. Various versions of the Leben have used different series termination on the headphone outputs, so the buzz issue may or may not be perceivable on current CS300 production units. You may also hear it on the HD800 and not the LCD-2 (different sensitivity & impedance).


----------



## MorbidToaster

Thanks again for the info...That's quite the system you've got there. Those O/96s are real beauties. 
   
  I think I'll be okay if I decide to go with the 300XS since I'm buying from a dealer no more than 10 minutes from where I live right now. 
   
  Thanks guys.
   
  EDIT: On topic...I'm giving the 009 + LL one more listen (well, a few more) before it goes to it's new home in a few days. I'm not much of a Jazz guy, but this album really is something special. 
   
   

  I picked it up last night at my local record store (owned the HD Tracks version before). It's just beautiful on vinyl. Well recorded stuff really does just shine on a 'stat system.
    
  Quote:


tiberiuspv said:


> I have a Leben CS600 driving Devore O/96 and I am very happy with the sound quality on the speakers. The headphone output is also excellent, but I have had an issue with the HD800 due to its high sensitivity. There is a slightly perceptible buzz on the right channel which is audible only when no music is playing (not volume dependent).This buzz can also be heard on the right speaker one or two inches from the speaker (but not from a normal listening position). I don't think you would hear it on the Harbeth HL5 which are much less sensitive than the O/96. It does not show up on less sensitive headphones (e.g. AKG K702). It is most likely an output transformer wire going too close to one of the power transformers or the power supply tube, but I have been too lazy to open up the CS600 to check on this theory
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Mzisman4

I made a thread and it was recommended I post here for help. original thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/643406/how-to-remove-dust-from-stax-lambda#post_9005886
  
 I got a pair of lambda pros cheap with an srm-1/mk2.  I had the amp cleaned and modded for pro output.  After reading and a much earlier post, I had come to the conclusion that there was dust in the left driver.  Any possible solutions?  There is a lot of rattle with really high and low frequencies--enough for me not to use them.  At this the left driver is scrap to me so I'm willing to give a reasonable idea a go.
  
 After coming back from vacation, the connection issues with the left channel cable have intensified.  At first, the sound would cut in and out if I moved my head to quickly.  It was easily avoided so I dealt with it.  Now, I have to hold the wire in a specific position to get any sound to pass through.  It is also at a significantly decreased volume.  I have figured out that the connection issue is occurring at the plastic/rubber "joint" where the wires meets the left enclosure.  Can I simply clip the wires before the joint and re-solder them to the driver?  I know the left and right wires will be uneven but I can't imagine it would make a huge sonic difference.  I could knot them inside the enclosure to relieve the tension.
  
 Could the connection issues be the cause of the static I had attributed to dust?
  
 Am I SOL? and what could I reasonably get out of them as parts to go towards a pair of 407/507?
  
 Thanks.
  
 On the bright side, the sr-30s I had thrown in for free are serving me well in the meantime


----------



## tiberiuspv

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Thanks again for the info...That's quite the system you've got there. Those O/96s are real beauties.
> 
> I think I'll be okay if I decide to go with the 300XS since I'm buying from a dealer no more than 10 minutes from where I live right now.


 
  Yes, the system is really nice. My previous setup was about 25 years old - mid-ranges Maggies and Bryston, SR Lambda NB. I felt I could indulge after being stable for so long. I loved the Magneplanar sound, but the new music room/library was violently hostile to the tall/thin look of the Maggies - major WAF with which I could not objectively disagree. The O/96 were chosen based on sound and aesthetics, and I am very pleased with the result on both fronts. In the same process, I moved to the HD800 which I really like a lot. Having a good dealer nearby is a huge value - system matching is quite difficult, and being able to listen at leisure to a specific combination is the best way to make an informed choice and not getting buyer's remorse and intense upgradeitis. That was key for me choosing the O/96-Leben pairing.
   
  But [back on thread topic] I could not get rid of the Stax bug and I am in the process of modernizing my Stax setup - moving up the food chain first to 507 and LNS, now 009 (just received) and a whole bevy of amps (SRM-1, 323, 007t) moving up to BHSE (pending). I went for the BHSE after listening to it extensively at a friend's and comparing quite a few different combinations. The 009/BHSE combo was definitely at the top for my taste (strictly classical, very sensitive to staging, dynamics and precision). I never got to listen to the LL, so my choice was pretty clear-cut. I also liked the BHSE from an aesthetics and internal design standpoint. This being said, all the reports I have heard on the 009/LL combo were glowing, so I completely understand why you want to give it a last listen (and congrats for the fast sale). In the past, I have alternated between speakers and headphones, but headphones are currently my major listening mode (75/25) and I find myself rotating between HD800 and the different Stax setups I have (the Lambda NB is still great headphones after over 30 years, I have had mine for 25 years).


----------



## MorbidToaster

I have a feeling I'll get the Stax bug against fairly quickly, and after hearing the 404LE a few months ago I could see ending up there with a decent amp. They were very impressive even next to the 009. 
   
  The O/96 are gorgeous so congrats on that front. I asked my dealer if there was one set up in the store he could take home if he closed tomorrow and it was the CS600 + Harbeths. He sells Devore, but not at the O/96 level. I'd love to hear them sometime. 
   
  I think the T1 might be my next headphone though. The HD800s soundstage just felt a little too wide (unnatural) but I know the T1 still has decent staging (the 009 did it perfect, IMO). Might as well try something new, but we'll see.
   
  Quote: 





tiberiuspv said:


> Yes, the system is really nice. My previous setup was about 25 years old - mid-ranges Maggies and Bryston, SR Lambda NB. I felt I could indulge after being stable for so long. I loved the Magneplanar sound, but the new music room/library was violently hostile to the tall/thin look of the Maggies - major WAF with which I could not objectively disagree. The O/96 were chosen based on sound and aesthetics, and I am very pleased with the result on both fronts. In the same process, I moved to the HD800 which I really like a lot. Having a good dealer nearby is a huge value - system matching is quite difficult, and being able to listen at leisure to a specific combination is the best way to make an informed choice and not getting buyer's remorse and intense upgradeitis. That was key for me choosing the O/96-Leben pairing.
> 
> But [back on thread topic] I could not get rid of the Stax bug and I am in the process of modernizing my Stax setup - moving up the food chain first to 507 and LNS, now 009 (just received) and a whole bevy of amps (SRM-1, 323, 007t) moving up to BHSE (pending). I went for the BHSE after listening to it extensively at a friend's and comparing quite a few different combinations. The 009/BHSE combo was definitely at the top for my taste (strictly classical, very sensitive to staging, dynamics and precision). I never got to listen to the LL, so my choice was pretty clear-cut. I also liked the BHSE from an aesthetics and internal design standpoint. This being said, all the reports I have heard on the 009/LL combo were glowing, so I completely understand why you want to give it a last listen (and congrats for the fast sale). In the past, I have alternated between speakers and headphones, but headphones are currently my major listening mode (75/25) and I find myself rotating between HD800 and the different Stax setups I have (the Lambda NB is still great headphones after over 30 years, I have had mine for 25 years).


----------



## wuwhere

^^^ From all the read I did, the SR-404 Anniversary Limited Edition, they have real leather pads.


----------



## tiberiuspv

Quote: 





mzisman4 said:


> After coming back from vacation, the connection issues with the left channel cable have intensified.  At first, the sound would cut in and out if I moved my head to quickly.  It was easily avoided so I dealt with it.  Now, I have to hold the wire in a specific position to get any sound to pass through.  It is also at a significantly decreased volume.  I have figured out that the connection issue is occurring at the plastic/rubber "joint" where the wires meets the left enclosure.  Can I simply clip the wires before the joint and re-solder them to the driver?  I know the left and right wires will be uneven but I can't imagine it would make a huge sonic difference.  I could knot them inside the enclosure to relieve the tension.
> 
> Could the connection issues be the cause of the static I had attributed to dust?


 
  The symptoms do seem to be more related to an intermittent wiring short at the cable egress. It's pretty unlikely you have both problems (dust and wiring) at the same time. The wire length difference is essentially immaterial (except possibly for strain). I have never opened up a pair of Lambdas but I am sure more experienced DIYers here can give you good advice on how to proceed. I suspect the process is similar to what you need to do to replace the ear pads.


----------



## tiberiuspv

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I have a feeling I'll get the Stax bug against fairly quickly, and after hearing the 404LE a few months ago I could see ending up there with a decent amp. They were very impressive even next to the 009.
> 
> The O/96 are gorgeous so congrats on that front. I asked my dealer if there was one set up in the store he could take home if he closed tomorrow and it was the CS600 + Harbeths. He sells Devore, but not at the O/96 level. I'd love to hear them sometime.
> 
> I think the T1 might be my next headphone though. The HD800s soundstage just felt a little too wide (unnatural) but I know the T1 still has decent staging (the 009 did it perfect, IMO). Might as well try something new, but we'll see.


 
  I have not heard the 404LE, although I did consider a pair as I was walking up the Stax foodchain - opted for the LNS instead, which I do like a lot (may end up as my office setup). I have not compared the LNS to the 009 yet, since it just arrived...
  If you happen to drop by the Bay Area, I'll be happy to give you a tour of my setup - though you'll need to bring your own music as our tastes are quite different.
  I differ with you on staging - I find the HD800 almost perfect, and the 009 a very close second - but it does other things better (dynamics and detail extraction). This may very possibly tied to the type of music: most classical recordings have limited left/right staging, so a slightly stronger staging in the headphones may sound more 'real'. I was actually very pleasantly surprised by the staging improvement provided by the ED-1 (on loan from a friend) with the Lambdas. I am probably going to play around with Isone on my PC to see what the staging tweaks sound like.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mzisman4 said:


> At first, the sound would cut in and out if I moved my head to quickly.  It was easily avoided so I dealt with it.  Now, I have to hold the wire in a specific position to get any sound to pass through.  It is also at a significantly decreased volume.  I have figured out that the connection issue is occurring at the plastic/rubber "joint" where the wires meets the left enclosure.  Can I simply clip the wires before the joint and re-solder them to the driver?  I know the left and right wires will be uneven but I can't imagine it would make a huge sonic difference.  I could knot them inside the enclosure to relieve the tension.
> 
> Could the connection issues be the cause of the static I had attributed to dust?


 
   
  I had a similar problem with my Lambda Pro's few months ago which I managed to fix. My problem was that the right side cable produced very small hissing static near the housing area if I moved my head. So I grabbed the cable and moved it to different directions and bamm, this confirmed that there was a fractured wire within the cable somewhere. What I ended up doing was de-soldering the cables from stat drivers and shortened both sides of the cable to the point where there was no hissing static from the right hand side. I also used a very sharp Stanley Fat Max knife to cut through the middle of the cable mold that holds it at the housing area. 
   
  Once the cables was re-cable I made sure both sides was of equal balanced lengths and reinstalled the housing completely and used a bit of super glue to hold the cable mold again at the housing area instead of a massive hole. It fixed the problem and am still enjoying the sound every minute I listen to it, right now I'm just on hunt for some replacement headbands (the NOS ones) and possibly a spare cable.


----------



## verber

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> From a conversation in a different forum, I was told about new standards coming into place for the estimation of audio program loudness: http://tech.ebu.ch/loudness





> In summary, I would attempt to measure B-weigthed loudness using pink noise input, which would be miles better than matching SPL for single tone (like 1kHz or 250Hz), as this absolutely does not take care of level matching.


 
   
  Thanks.  Busy for next couple of days, but I will look at these refs shortly. I was using pink noise and a A-weighted loudness measurement (yes, I am sure B would be better, but my meter has A built in, not B).
   
  --Mark


----------



## dj nellie

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> It's not necessarily about 'listening' to her...It's about wanting her to enjoy music as much as I do. The 009s have made me feel a bit selfish over the last few months because the more head time they get, the more isolated I was being towards spending time with her.
> 
> Also, it's sold already. Official once the wire come through. Didn't expect someone to drop that kind of cash this fast. lol


 
   
  Congrats on the sale, and sorry you had to give up your rig.  Honestly, I'm not surprised it sold so quickly.  Combine the 009 with an amp that won't be widely available again for at least 4-5 months, and which is--by most accounts--no worse than top 3 out of the commercially-produced amps for the 009 (and a few thousand dollars cheaper than the others), and I'm sure plenty of people are lurking in the bushes waiting for a deal.
   
  I hear you on the "headphones isolate me from my significant other" argument.  I basically have turned my headphone listening time into the few hours I have after my wife falls asleep, and before I literally have to yank the 009s off of my head because I can't get enough.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Yeah, the headphones won't be leaving the house all together, but they're getting a major downgrade as they won't be used nearly as much as the speakers. 
   
  Now I'm just waiting on payment to come through so I can throw money at my dealer. 
   
  Quote: 





dj nellie said:


> Congrats on the sale, and sorry you had to give up your rig.  Honestly, I'm not surprised it sold so quickly.  Combine the 009 with an amp that won't be widely available again for at least 4-5 months, and which is--by most accounts--no worse than top 3 out of the commercially-produced amps for the 009 (and a few thousand dollars cheaper than the others), and I'm sure plenty of people are lurking in the bushes waiting for a deal.
> 
> I hear you on the "headphones isolate me from my significant other" argument.  I basically have turned my headphone listening time into the few hours I have after my wife falls asleep, and before I literally have to yank the 009s off of my head because I can't get enough.


----------



## yawg

Hi,
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I take any remarks like that with a healthy dose of skepticism.  I've built and rebuilt enough equipment to to know there is no such thing as burn in and nobody has been able to prove its real.  If component is changing its value after a few hundred hours then it is by definition broken and should be replaced.  Let's look at real possibilities then:
> 
> One cause can be due to thermal drift.  Going by the numbers Alex has posted then the Liquid Lightning must be burning hot even at low ambient temp and that can cause all sorts of issues.  80W is a lot of heat to dissipate on those tiny sinks and if the amp was setup with the top off then it can drift even further with it on.
> 
> ...


 
  I never believed in burn-in except for the obvious candidates like phono cartridges and speakers, those are mechanical devices. But since I had the original filters of my 3.6 Maggies replaced by real serious ones I am very amazed. I heard a bit of improvement directly after listening to them the first time but boy did it get better and better with more and more listening hours. This is definitely no self-hypnosis. Even after more than 50 hours I still hear more and more fine detail - on records I've been listening to since the early 70s!
   
  This as nothing to do with thermal issues whatsoever. The original tiny inductors might have been heating up with my listening levels - and gone into saturation in the process - but the new big caps and inductors stay absolutely cool even with the highest volume levels.
   
  I'm a born sceptic, believe me. But this is absolutely awesome.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## Torero

Is worth to buy a Stax STAX SR-007 SZ3 ? o better Stax 507?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





torero said:


> Is worth to buy a Stax STAX SR-007 SZ3 ? o better Stax 507?


 
  A substantial upgrade yes.


----------



## milosz

Tubes change a little as they age. Cathode emission will change with time; and the level of vacuum in the tube changes a little as things inside evaporate due to heat.  The getter will absorb some of this, but not all. Emissivity of grids also changes slightly (yes, grids do emit a little) due to heating over time.  Internal structures may warp a little due to heating over time, changes in geometry cause changes in tube characteristics.  All of these changes in a tube over time are fairly subtle (except for cathode emission, which goes to 'KAPUT' eventually) but I'd bet you could actually measure them if you had the right gear and method. Whether you can HEAR them, well, that's another matter.
   
  Capacitors could also change in value a little due to aging- not just in terms of capacitance value, but also other things such as ESR and power factor. 
   
  But why is it that all "break in" is claimed to result in IMPROVEMENT in sound quality?  That makes me very suspicious; if break-in is ALWAYS reported to be positive, then it seems likely to be a subjective thing (i.e.,perceptual system / brain) and not related to actual changes in signal reproduction.
   
  If these slight physical / electrical changes are really having an impact on sound quality, why are they always IMPROVEMENTS?  Shouldn't *some* "broken in" tubes / capacitors / drivers / phono cartridges sound _WORSE? _Like about 50% of them?


----------



## Torero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> A substantial upgrade yes.


 

 I understand you that the SZ3 are substancial upgrade from the 507. But what?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





torero said:


> I understand you that the SZ3 are substancial upgrade from the 507. But what?


 
  What do you mean by this?
   
  I've given a MK1 a good listen before from a friends rig at the same time there was the 507 before I decided on forking money on another of HD800's. The 507 ain't no slouch and is the current flagship of the Lambda frame series but for me it just had an annoying treble range, the MK1 in comparison was just better in regards to all sound aspects fairly balanced to me ears. I couldn't afford an MK1 + amp at the time so I got another used HD800 for cheap to play around.
   
  The SZ3 I believe is another version of the SR-007 that is slightly different to the original MK1's (sorry I'm not familiar with these revision codes), but spritzer or any other owner should provide a more reliable response for you regards to the different sounds and tonal signatures of the SR-007's.


----------



## caseyse

A quick update to my initial 11/30 post.  I'm floored at the sound quality I'm hearing this evening - what I've been missing all these years.  I decided to side step using the digital out of my transporter and ripped 70+ SACDs over Christmas (many newly purchased now that I can rip SACDs.)  I just received my Debussy DAC this evening, and using Signalyst's HQPlayer Desktop on Linux, I'm currently streaming DSD through the Debussy at 192kHz and listening with my 009's and a 727II.  What a treat!


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





caseyse said:


> A quick update to my initial 11/30 post.  I'm floored at the sound quality I'm hearing this evening - what I've been missing all these years.  I decided to side step using the digital out of my transporter and ripped 70+ SACDs over Christmas (many newly purchased now that I can rip SACDs.)  I just received my Debussy DAC this evening, and using Signalyst's HQPlayer Desktop on Linux, I'm currently streaming DSD through the Debussy at 192kHz and listening with my 009's and a 727II.  What a treat!


 
  I didn't know you could rip SACDs. I thought you had to use the actual disc. Interesting.


----------



## milosz

How are you ripping SACD's?  Do you have one of the "right" version PS3's that allow this?  Or are you just ripping the Red Book layer...?


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





caseyse said:


> A quick update to my initial 11/30 post.  I'm floored at the sound quality I'm hearing this evening - what I've been missing all these years.  I decided to side step using the digital out of my transporter and ripped 70+ SACDs over Christmas (many newly purchased now that I can rip SACDs.)  I just received my Debussy DAC this evening, and using Signalyst's HQPlayer Desktop on Linux, I'm currently streaming DSD through the Debussy at 192kHz and listening with my 009's and a 727II.  What a treat!


 
   
  I thought I read that the Debussy was DSD ready. Shouldn't need to convert and downsample to 192kHz?
   
  I've got Audirvana+ -> DoP over USB -> HP-A8 with 2.01b which supports DoP -> 727A -> 009 and that's straight 2.8Mhz.
   
  (in my case, yes, PS3 ripped ISO DSD files).


----------



## sphinxvc

I believe if it reads as 192 it's PCM.


----------



## spritzer

No SACD would ever be 192kHz as in PCM terms the max is 88.2kHz since there is no built in filtering. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> The SZ3 I believe is another version of the SR-007 that is slightly different to the original MK1's (sorry I'm not familiar with these revision codes), but spritzer or any other owner should provide a more reliable response for you regards to the different sounds and tonal signatures of the SR-007's.


 
   
  The SZ2 version a slightly different version of the Mk1 which could be modified to sound pretty close.  The SZ3 sounds completely different.


----------



## Torero

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No SACD would ever be 192kHz as in PCM terms the max is 88.2kHz since there is no built in filtering.
> 
> 
> The SZ2 version a slightly different version of the Mk1 which could be modified to sound pretty close.  The SZ3 sounds completely different.


 

 Then, Is worth the SZ3 compared with 507?


----------



## padam

Quote: 





torero said:


> Then, Is worth the SZ3 compared with 507?


 
  Both are somewhat forward but they are quite different is terms of presentation and sound so an audition is recommended to see which one you prefer.
   
  The 507 is much more "in your face" detail, fast, fairly tight bass, the SR007 Mk2 is more diffused and looser in the bass.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SZ2 version a slightly different version of the Mk1 which could be modified to sound pretty close.  The SZ3 sounds completely different.


 
  Thanks spritzer.


----------



## milosz

Originally Posted by *spritzer* 



 The SZ2 version a slightly different version of the Mk1 which could be modified to sound pretty close.  The SZ3 sounds completely different. 

   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Thanks spritzer.


 
   
  I had a pair of Stax SR-007 mk 2's with the SZ3 serial number, and I did not much like the sound.  Bass was... well, 'lumpy' sounding. In general the sound was not to my liking. Most of what I didn't like was a lower mid / upper bass response that just didn't sound right to me, and the treble didn't seem "open" either, maybe as a result of being overwhelmed by an excess of upper-bass "warmth."  I think on smaller-scale classical music they sounded fine, but on the stuff I listen to, not so much.  
   
  I sold them and bought a pair of SR-007 mk 1's and I like them *quite* well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





torero said:


> Then, Is worth the SZ3 compared with 507?


 
   
  I don't like either of them.


----------



## K_19

So I bought a new pair of MK1 pads that I'm hoping to receive soon (the foams on current one, while still usable and the exterior fine, was too shot overall) and practiced with changing the pads a few times last night... and damn, it was really frustrating indeed! Got it done though, the tip of using a business/credit card to hold on to the lip while folding over the rest really helped.
   
  Just a few questions on the pad replacement:
   
  - While the pads are being replaced, will I have to worry about the dust getting into the drivers and such? (e.g: better to do so in a completely dust free environment) I'm sure they're probably sealed well so they can't get in easily, but I know for ES headphones once dust gets in it becomes really troublesome...
   
  - On the inside of the pads there are two lips, longer one that is supposed to fold into the groove and a smaller one inside to keep the protective mesh in. The proper way to place the steel ring is to put it inside the second lip, correct?
   
  - I don't think they're available, but I'll ask anyway to make sure; are their brown version of the MKII style pads (thicker, better foam, better leather)? I almost went with the MKII pads instead but thought of the colour clash kinda bothered me enough not to... if I do get the black pads I think I'd probably replace the arc and the headband with the black versions as well (too bad the cable isn't swappable...).


----------



## rubenpp

Pad replacement instructions from Stax provided by spritzer


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Pad replacement instructions from Stax provided by spritzer


 
   
  Thanks for the picture. I recalled seeing that before and went along with it accordingly, but it's good to have exact instructions.
   
  It's interesting how they mark the placement for the metal spring differently for the MK1 and MK2, however... On that diagram there seems to be three "lips" to the pad but on my MK1's I only see two. Am I missing something here?


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Thanks for the picture. I recalled seeing that before and went along with it accordingly, but it's good to have exact instructions.
> 
> It's interesting how they mark the placement for the metal spring differently for the MK1 and MK2, however... On that diagram there seems to be three "lips" to the pad but on my MK1's I only see two. Am I missing something here?


 
  I used Mk2 pads with my MK1 , but don't remember exactly how many " lips " there are.


----------



## K_19

Uh Oh.
   
  It seems like my MK1 has developed that infamous parasitic charge issue. The volume on the right channel is definitely louder than the left, verified by switching the interconnects, pads, reversing the headphone, etc. No matter what I do the R side is louder than the L.
   
  Luckily the imbalance isn't huge, Couple DB's max I think, as tiniest bit of turn for the L on the split volume knob (probably the reason why stat amps typically have split volumes?) evens out the balance without any distortion, so thankfully I don't think this is a driver or a cable issue.
   
  What would be the best thing for me to do at this point? I've read a few posts on how you can just leave them unused for a few weeks to see if it goes away, but they're my main headphones now and that would suck not being able to use them for a while. But if that is what's the safest thing to do for the headphones in the long run I'll do it.  Or is it safe to keep on using them and just compensating for the volume difference by using the knob? 
   
  Lastly, is there a way to prevent this from happening again (should it go back to normal, and I hope so), or is it just one of those things that are random and have to accept with Stax headphones?
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## caseyse

anakchan said:


> I thought I read that the Debussy was DSD ready. Shouldn't need to convert and downsample to 192kHz?
> 
> I've got Audirvana+ -> DoP over USB -> HP-A8 with 2.01b which supports DoP -> 727A -> 009 and that's straight 2.8Mhz.
> 
> (in my case, yes, PS3 ripped ISO DSD files).




I'm traveling at the moment and not in front of my computer/cans. The Debussy does support native DSD via USB but I believe it uses PCM wrappers for transmission. I don't recall the details but the Debussy has a string of LEDs showing bitrate and its highest, 192 is lit when playing DSD - I backup the SACDs to an ISO file and then extract the 2-Ch DSD files/songs w. no conversion. I believe I correctly set the HQPlayer software to stream native DSD w.out conversion to PCM or resampling. I'll double check, but it looked like the Debussy was receiving a stream at it's highest bitrate.

A quick summary of PS3 SACD ripping:
I purchased a new PS3 60gb circa '06/'07 on ebay. This guaranteed I had a firmware version less than the hacked version 3.55 (you can upgrade but can't downgrade firmware versions unless you like soldering.) I upgraded to 3.55 and installed a patch which allowed me to install the SACD ripping software. You obtain the ripping software source and compile it on Windows or Linux using PS3 libraries (it's pretty simple to do.) So once you have compiled the ripping software and put it on the PS3, the first time you run it, it grabs a set of encryption keys you put on a USB flash drive - keys readily available on the Internet. The software only needs to grab the keys once, the first time you rip a SACD. I have now ripped almost 80 SACDs w. no issues. Now that I can rip SACDs I'm willing to purchase more - the opposite of what the record labels/Sony feared.


----------



## caseyse

(dup post)


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey guys, 
   
  research has shown no helpful results.  is the fair offer on a Stax T1 still around $600 bucks, or lower?  how about a pair of sigmas?  what are the going rates?
   
  Real nice guy selling some stuff off.  I want to be fair, but I think he wants ebay prices.


----------



## yawg

Hi,
  Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I have a Lambda signature, with the heavy modded T1S,
> I don't notice any "etch",the mid-highs are very smooth & liquid.
> 
> Before mod,the highs are lacking some refinement


 
   
  I have a T1S too which I use with a Lambda Nova Sig. What are your "heavy" mods all about? I'm especially interested in tube rolling as I've had excellent results with rolling the tubes in my preamps and my EAR 549 power monoblocs. I also heavily modded my 3.6 Maggies with good stands and top XOs - after which I cannot understand how any "audiophile" could take them seriously without the mods ...
   
  Maybe my LNS is too different to compare with the "normal" Sig but anyway - if you could explain one or the other mod to me, I'd be very thankful.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a T1S too which I use with a Lambda Nova Sig. What are your "heavy" mods all about? I'm especially interested in tube rolling as I've had excellent results with rolling the tubes in my preamps and my EAR 549 power monoblocs. I also heavily modded my 3.6 Maggies with good stands and top XOs - after which I cannot understand how any "audiophile" could take them seriously without the mods ...
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Sorry I correct my words, I did notice the etch.
  if I don't use the Lambda Signature often, the etch will be more obvious,
   
  warm up before listen,pair it with a good source & amp,
  the problem can be greatly mitigated
   
  it's bloody ugly, but it works lol, I get more intimacy and pure sound after mod
  (ecc99 mod(thanks spritzer),up-occ wires,full amrg resistors,elna silmic2,jensen,amtrans & some vcaps capacitors)


----------



## yawg

Hi,
  Quote: 





downrange said:


> Just messin' with ya!
> 
> Great post!


 
  Which Maggies do you own? I've got the 3.6 but spent a lot of sweat and money to get things right. I'd like to share some experiences if you like ...
   
  Sorry if this is OT but the rest will be personal. If you like to answer please use my e-mail: yawgie@gmail.com. Thanks!
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## LemanRuss9

Hi
  is it true that the stax headphone could shock you.since im thinking of buying the sr002


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





lemanruss9 said:


> Hi
> is it true that the stax headphone could shock you.since im thinking of buying the sr002


 
  they won't shock you
  stax is like your old friends,no hypocritical,no exaggerating


----------



## oso

Hi all
   
  Do you know if there is any thorough  measurements comparing the performances of Stax amplifiers (727) vs others somewhere on the web?
   
  Have a nice WE
   
  olivier


----------



## Armaegis

So I heard a stax for the first time the other day. Had them on my head for all of twenty seconds and thought "hey, these are pretty good"... then *SNAP* the headband broke.


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





armaegis said:


> So I heard a stax for the first time the other day. Had them on my head for all of twenty seconds and thought "hey, these are pretty good"... then *SNAP* the headband broke.


 

 which model?  Hope they weren't someone else's...


----------



## LemanRuss9

anyone has expirence with stax sr 002?


----------



## Armaegis

Quote: 





nick n said:


> which model?


 
   
  404
   
   


nick n said:


> Hope they weren't someone else's...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I sold them and bought a pair of SR-007 mk 1's and I like them *quite* well.


 
  Yeh I agree my first exposure to some modern Stax besides the 407, 507 was the Mk1's thanks to a mate of mine and they sounded extremely intimate. Funny enough we tried some general piano sonatas, classical beethoven stuff and few other modern pop and it sounded good with all of them I believe at the time we were using some 727's and I can't imagine how much better it would sound if he had a better dedicated stat amp as I heard that the Mk1's require some juice to get that sound just right. 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I don't like either of them.


 
  Didn't like the 507's either.
   
  Quote: 





armaegis said:


> 404


 
  I believe Audiocubes still has some headband replacements. Need to check.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





lemanruss9 said:


> Hi
> is it true that the stax headphone could shock you.since im thinking of buying the sr002


 
  Absolutely true!  One look at the prices and you will be shocked!
   
  (No danger of electrical shock, though)


----------



## jaycalgary

Are those ones partly made in China?


----------



## DefQon

There are stats made in China?


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Absolutely true!  One look at the prices and you will be shocked!
> 
> (No danger of electrical shock, though)


 
  Haha too funny that! It's also recommended to ground your wallet before any contact with Stax gear.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> There are stats made in China?


 
  Not yet... But i hope if they do, It's not gonna be under the 'Stax Ltd.' brand.


----------



## arnaud

No Stax product was ever made in China, even partly, Edifier isn't changing anything about this.


----------



## oso

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> The 727 is a local feedback version of the 717. The 727 has a current source, the 717 has a resistor. Otherwise virtually identical.
> The 727 runs the output stage at higher power.
> 
> The kgss and the 717 are similar amplifiers. (4 stage amplifiers)
> ...


 
   

 Very interesting Kevin! Where can one obtain the schematics of SRM 727 amp? I would be really interested.
   
  In the real life, what makes the differences between the Stax amps and the KG versions if the schemes are the same? What could be the flaws in the Stax designs making people prefer the KG versions?
   
  Does someone know whether measures of these amplifiers are available?
   
  Thank you very much for your help
   
  All the best
   
  Olivier


----------



## Armaegis

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I believe Audiocubes still has some headband replacements. Need to check.


 
   
  Already have some replacements coming in from Yama's Inc. 
   
  I know I shouldn't let this experience sour me on stax, but geez these are some flimsy headbands...


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> No Stax product was ever made in China, even partly, Edifier isn't changing anything about this.


 
   
  So, speaking of, was anything ever posted on the interview with Stax?  I think you attended, right?  I'm not sure if I missed it.


----------



## justin w.

The thread on the new Stax in-the-earspeakers has been moved to the portable headphones forum here - The legendaris Stax iem strike back By begining November 2012 : SR 002 + Srm 002 and Srm 003 mk2...


----------



## arnaud

sphinxvc said:


> So, speaking of, was anything ever posted on the interview with Stax?  I think you attended, right?  I'm not sure if I missed it.




It's a work in progress... Have finished to translate the 1hour or so of interview to english + the discussion during the tour. Am waiting for amos / scott to polish that up before I send it back to stax. Shouldn't be much longer...


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





armaegis said:


> Already have some replacements coming in from Yama's Inc.
> 
> I know I shouldn't let this experience sour me on stax, but geez these are some flimsy headbands...


 
   
  Which Stax model do you have?  I think you just had really bad luck...there are plenty of 30+ yr old Stax headphones with original headbands that work as new.


----------



## jaycalgary

I bet it's not a Lambda pro or sig. That headband is rock solid for how light it is. The 407's have a junk plastic headband so I guess that it is Nova or newer.


----------



## Armaegis

It was a 404.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Haha too funny that! It's also recommended to ground your wallet before any contact with Stax gear.
> Not yet... But i hope if they do, It's not gonna be under the 'Stax Ltd.' brand.


 
   
   
  >> It's also recommended to ground your wallet before any contact with Stax gear.<<
   
   
   
HAHAHA  yep!


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Haha too funny that! It's also recommended to ground your wallet before any contact with Stax gear.


 
   
  I'm picky on sound,sold all dynamic cans I owned, didn't look back
   
  bought 3 stax lambdas & frustrated, they sound different,
  I always try to find their flaw,& ended up enjoying them.
  will be regretful if i sell any of them


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yeah, I've been slack.
   
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Stax products will only ever be made in Japan from components also made in Japan as I understand it.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Stax products will only ever be made in Japan from components also made in Japan as I understand it.


 
   
  Some of the semiconductors are now from manufacturers not based in japan.
   
  for example on the sr-002 portable amplifier, the jfet opamps are AD822A
  and the pre-regulator is LTC3127.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> It's a work in progress... Have finished to translate the 1hour or so of interview to english + the discussion during the tour. Am waiting for amos / scott to polish that up before I send it back to stax. Shouldn't be much longer...


 
   
  Thx.


----------



## Rico613

OK, I'm getting really paranoid 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 about dust getting into the SR-007 / SR-009.  I live in the high desert which gets dusty.  In fact, I have to blow dust out my smoke detectors once or twice a year.  I read there is a dust cover in the 009s, I wonder if it will be sufficient?   Does anyone have experience with dust on the 007s / 009s ?


----------



## En_R

rico613 said:


> OK, I'm getting really paranoid :angry_face: about dust getting into the SR-007 / SR-009.  I live in the high desert which gets dusty.  In fact, I have to blow dust out my smoke detectors once or twice a year.  I read there is a dust cover in the 009s, I wonder if it will be sufficient?   Does anyone have experience with dust on the 007s / 009s ?




I am concerned about this as well. Does blowing gently into the side of the headphones (to get rid of dust) damage the drivers? I haven't even tried because scared =(.


----------



## astrostar59

I am interested in this as well. I live in South Sapin where it is also dusty.
   
  Is it possible to blow dust off the drivers? Could dust get stuck to the film of the drivers? Or even worse inside onto the contacts?
   
  For a storage / dust cover I tried a glass dome to fit over my headphone stand. It keeps them really clean BUT in Winter the leather cups get a thin layer of white mold growing on them, so not good either.
   
  I might try and create some air gaps to the base of dome where it sits on the wood circular base. It is has some ambient air flow to reduce any condensation or damp build up, it should work?
   
  BTW I hate the Stax plastic covers...


----------



## K_19

I just always keep my 007's in their flight case.  Bit annoying to put it back into the box and take it out every time but at least you're assured that it should be well protected...


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Is it possible to blow dust off the drivers? Could dust get stuck to the film of the drivers? Or even worse inside onto the contacts?


 

 I think there would be a danger of blowing dust into the diaphragm.  Here is what STAX had to say about dust issues:
   
  Quote: 





> _[size=x-small]Thank you for your inquiry and your interest in STAX products.[/size]_
> 
> _[size=x-small]STAX products are electrostatic and sensitive to dust. It is of sealed design but do not recommend use in a dusty environment. If cleaning and/or repairs become necessary, they will not be covered under the manufacturer's warranty and the sound elements are not a repairable part. Replacement sound elements take up over 80% of the cost of headphone and replacing them yearly or twice a year would not be economical.[/size]  [size=x-small]We've had a handful of dust related service this year but most are 30-40 year old headphones. [/size]_


 
   
  I found this a little disconcerting  . . . but maybe being careful as K-19 suggests, it is not an issue . . . 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  How long have you guys had your STAX in the dusty environments?


----------



## MorbidToaster

I'd get a Pelican case. Moisture free and air tight. I used my 009 box all the time when they weren't in use.


----------



## pao_revolt

i live in los angeles so it is pretty bad air quality here. is it safe to just hang my 009 on the headphone stand when it is unused? and what is the proper way to clean it?


----------



## gilency

I would think it would be as long as you use a protective plastic cover.
  I also live in SoCal but rather keep my SR-009 in its case when not in use.
  My Sigma/404 is always in a stand but covered; never had any trouble with it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Stax products will only ever be made in Japan from components also made in Japan as I understand it.


 
  Yeah I know there was little sarcasm intended in my post. Aside from that the Jades were manu'd in the States right?


----------



## pao_revolt

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I would think it would be as long as you use a protective plastic cover.
> I also live in SoCal but rather keep my SR-009 in its case when not in use.
> My Sigma/404 is always in a stand but covered; never had any trouble with it.


 
   


 thank you,
   
  kind of counter-intuitive, is there any leather cup protection or something similar that look nicer than the plastic bag.
   
  i just received the unit about a week ago, sound awesome, but when i turn my and the phone hit my headrest it make small pop sound, is that sound coming form air pushing the diaphragm, and it is normal right?
   
  just want to make sure.. : )
   
  thank you


----------



## Maxvla

That is contact inside the headphone from the air being compressed (from your head pressing the pad too quickly against the housing). This is something that should be avoided. Usually this does no damage, but it has the potential to ruin your day.


----------



## gilency

You mean the Stax fart is dangerous for the transducers?
  I have never heard of that.


----------



## dukeskd

Please explain how it would ruin my day?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





gilency said:


> You mean the Stax fart is dangerous for the transducers?
> I have never heard of that.


 
   
  You wouldn't have as it is pure and utter BS.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Please explain how it would ruin my day?


 
  Because we like to keep up the illusion that pretty, expensive things don't fart.


----------



## Donnyhifi

For those with the dust issues, I've been covering my 009's with the Stax CPC-1 cover when not in use.
   
https://www.staxusa.com/stax-cpc-1.html


----------



## Maxvla

If you manage to get the diaphragm stuck to the stator you will have to repair it or live with lower quality sound.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Because we like to keep up the illusion that pretty, expensive things don't fart.


----------



## mwilson

They do. It's just that it smells like roses.
   
  Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Because we like to keep up the illusion that pretty, expensive things don't fart.


----------



## pao_revolt

Quote: 





donnyhifi said:


> For those with the dust issues, I've been covering my 009's with the Stax CPC-1 cover when not in use.
> 
> https://www.staxusa.com/stax-cpc-1.html


 

 can you give me the dimension? i would like to know if it big enough for my woo double headphone stand.
   
  thanks


----------



## rgs9200m

I use the Stax plastic headphone covers for all of my headphones (and the Stax stands also).


----------



## ctemkin

I'd like to repeat pao_revolt's request.  It would be great if someone with the cover could provide its dimensions.  I have not been able to find this out on either the Stax site or the sites of a number of distributors.


----------



## DefQon

I don't think the Stax cover maybe big enough for the double Woo stand judging from pictures. A cheaper solution which does the same thing, why not buy vinyl sleeves? Guard against dust, cheap to buy, anti-static, easily disposable if ripped and protects your headphones.


----------



## rgs9200m

The Stax cover is 11.5 inches high, 8 inches wide, and opens to 5 inches thick, as best I can measure it with a tape measure. 
  It's like a bag, so it puffs out, of course. It's a heavy duty plastic semi-opaque on one side, clear on the others, and says STAX on it in gold letters.


----------



## btankey

So, when auditioning headphones one of my basic tracks is 'Packt Like Sardines In A Crushed Tin Box' as the opening is a good indication of bass impact/precision... currently awaiting a back-order on purchased Sr-407's... and wondering how they will do.  Played through speakers, the impact is lost (it's not sub-sub bass/I would like to know what frequency it is, for reference) so headphones win on this frequency for me.  I know going into Stax that I won't find the 'thump' I sometimes love, which is okay with me, but would love anyone's opinion on the performance of Stax generally with this frequency...


----------



## ecohifi

kevin gilmore said:


> Some of the semiconductors are now from manufacturers not based in japan.
> 
> for example on the sr-002 portable amplifier, the jfet opamps are AD822A
> and the pre-regulator is LTC3127.




I'm new to this thread, 

What fet do the other Stax drivers use?

The AD822A is a relatively cheap chip with extramely slow slew rate.


----------



## dj nellie

Quote: 





pao_revolt said:


> can you give me the dimension? i would like to know if it big enough for my woo double headphone stand.
> 
> thanks


 
   
  I have that stand and the Stax bag is big enough to go around the whole stand.  It's a tight fit for 2 headphones though, depending on what the 2nd headphone is.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  It's not the drivers/earspeakers, but the amplifiers that have the semiconductors.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





wink said:


> It's not the drivers/earspeakers, but the amplifiers that have the semiconductors.


 
   
  Stax refers to its amplifiers as driver units. It calls its headphones earspeakers...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> If you manage to get the diaphragm stuck to the stator you will have to repair it or live with lower quality sound.


 
   
  Ehhh What?  If the diaphragm were able to hit the stator (which it can't) then you would have a lot of worries besides lower quality sound...


----------



## Maxvla

spritzer said:


> Ehhh What?  If the diaphragm were able to hit the stator (which it can't) then you would have a lot of worries besides lower quality sound...



http://www.head-fi.org/t/588716/vintage-stax-repair-and-maintenance/30


----------



## spritzer

...and your point is?  This is a well known issue with the normal bias units and has nothing to do with the diaphragm touching anything.


----------



## shipsupt

I need a little help on some troubleshooting...
   
  My SRM-717 has cut out while playing a few times now.  

 There is no noise, just a sudden drop out in volume.  
 If I keep the source feeding and push the gain all the way up I can start to hear faint music, but it sounds a bit distorted.
 The power light is still on.  
 I tried a few different headphones, no change.  
 I confirmed that the source is OK, it's playing fine now with an SRM-300.  The only difference would be that I'm feeding the 717 balanced and the 300 unbalanced.
   
  This happened a few nights ago. I fired it up to take a quick reading of L- to bias (41 Volts when working and after it cuts out) and found that it was working again.  It failed again in around an hour in the same way.
   
  Just looking for some ideas on where to go first/next trouble shooting.  I do hate intermittent faults!


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is a DC input protection circuit on the 717. Try a different source.


----------



## milosz

RE:  covering Stax headphones when not in use
   
  The drivers themselves have dust covers internal to the earcup. Dust in your environment can't get into the driver unless the internal dust seals are compromised.  Putting the headphones inside a plastic tent will keep dust off the framework and the leather surfaces, but does nothing useful in terms of the drivers.  They drivers  are already protected from dust when the headphones come from the factory.
   
  Without the internal dust seals, the headphones would really never work at all.  Dust would be BOUND to get into the driver, even at the factory.  The drivers are assembled in a clean room, as I understand it; they are built in an essentially dust-free environment and then sealed into their dust shields. 
   
  The clearances between stator and diaphragm are so tight that any kind of dust in there would really cause sonic trouble.  Electrostatic headphone drivers have to be sealed behind plastic membranes.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> There is a DC input protection circuit on the 717. Try a different source.


 
   
  Yup, either that or the amps own offset has drifted out of spec.  Too much dust inside the chassis can cause the heat to rise and with it the offset.


----------



## Donnyhifi

Quote: 





pao_revolt said:


> can you give me the dimension? i would like to know if it big enough for my woo double headphone stand.
> 
> thanks


 

 Its a comfortable fit for my Woo Single but I can't see it fitting over the Woo Double.


----------



## Michgelsen

My 717 has cut sound two times on very hot summer days, due to overheating. When the amp cools down, it should work again.
  On two or three other occasions, inserting the plug from the headphones while the amp was on caused the amp to go into this 'protection mode'. Switching off the amp and disconnecting power for a few seconds, then switching it back on made it work again. This is very rare though. Normally when I disconnect or connect headphones while the amp is on, nothing happens.
  I have read reports of 717s overheating due to being configured for the wrong voltage. For example the amp could be set for 220 volt when the line voltage is actually 230 volt, in which case it's better to set the amp for 240 volt operation.
  Can any of these points be the source of your problem?
   
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> I need a little help on some troubleshooting...
> 
> My SRM-717 has cut out while playing a few times now.
> 
> ...


----------



## shipsupt

I doubt its overheating, unless it's dirty inside... I'll be opening it up when I have a few minutes to check that.  It's cool here in the UK as is the listening room.  Plenty of ventilation around the unit.  
   
  The voltage question is interesting... It is set for 220V.  When I checked my line yesterday it was just over 230V. Tonight (late) I checked it and it was dancing between 238 and 240V.  Interesting stuff.  I will change the voltage setting after opening and cleaning.
   
  Thanks all for the suggestions.  I will keep you posted if you're really bored and interested.
   
   
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> My 717 has cut sound two times on very hot summer days, due to overheating. When the amp cools down, it should work again.
> On two or three other occasions, inserting the plug from the headphones while the amp was on caused the amp to go into this 'protection mode'. Switching off the amp and disconnecting power for a few seconds, then switching it back on made it work again. This is very rare though. Normally when I disconnect or connect headphones while the amp is on, nothing happens.
> I have read reports of 717s overheating due to being configured for the wrong voltage. For example the amp could be set for 220 volt when the line voltage is actually 230 volt, in which case it's better to set the amp for 240 volt operation.
> Can any of these points be the source of your problem?


----------



## Hun7er

Someone has compared these amp : 
   
  SRM600ltd
  SR717
  SR727
  SR007t
  SRM T-1(S)
   
  ?


----------



## DefQon

Just a question (for spritzer), would http://www.electromod.co.uk/product-detail.asp?P=1 these be suitable for recabling the Lambda Pro's? Both are pro-bias.


----------



## El_Doug

Any particular reason the answer needs to come from Iceland?  Anyone here could give you a resounding "yes"...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> Any particular reason the answer needs to come from Iceland?  Anyone here could give you a resounding "yes"...


 
  haha, well it was partially directed to those who can answer it and spritzer himself as well as he is the Stax guru here.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> I doubt its overheating, unless it's dirty inside... I'll be opening it up when I have a few minutes to check that.  It's cool here in the UK as is the listening room.  Plenty of ventilation around the unit.
> 
> The voltage question is interesting... It is set for 220V.  When I checked my line yesterday it was just over 230V. Tonight (late) I checked it and it was dancing between 238 and 240V.  Interesting stuff.  I will change the voltage setting after opening and cleaning.
> 
> Thanks all for the suggestions.  I will keep you posted if you're really bored and interested.


 

 Yes, keep us posted please.


----------



## ecohifi

Hi guys,

If you had to get Stax electronics, what would be the best current production amp that is value for the money?

I have just auditioned a 323 and a 006 via 407.

Might be considering the 507 and the 009 and a 323. 

I like the 323 but that sounded compressed. The 006 with tubes were too warm and the bass hollowed out as volume increase. I have a SRM 1 MK2 driving lambda pros, do you think the SRM 1 is capable of driving the 009?

The reason I'm asking is that being down under there is almost no retailer has this stuff to audition, especially some of the higher acclaimed amps that are mentioned on this thread.


----------



## jaycalgary

"If you had to get Stax electronics"    What


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Just a question (for spritzer), would http://www.electromod.co.uk/product-detail.asp?P=1 these be suitable for recabling the Lambda Pro's? Both are pro-bias.


 

 I was quite interested by this site because there's lots of Stax spare parts listed in £s for the UK market, including  Mk2 Brown replacement pads for SR-007. Which seems to answer an old question whether it's possible to get Mk2 pads in brown. Shame then that the actual description of those pads is completely wrong. Looks like a bad case of cut n paste error...


----------



## ecohifi

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> "If you had to get Stax electronics"    What


 
   
   
  In my part of the globe,  apart from Woo audio, and the dealer doesnt even have the WES in stock.  They wont have the 009 or the 007 as these are way too expensive to hold!   You need to order one!   And Im not a fan of buying stuff I cant audition.   The only electrstatic drivers are Stax drivers, the 323 and 006 are the only ones I have heard.  Its a huge outlay for the ones that are highly praised on this thread.


----------



## glassmaple

Can anyone give a comparison between Beyer T1 and the SR 009? I've been trying to find a comparison of someone that heard both on head fi for a while but nothing really came up. Only the big flagship comparision thread has anything like that.


----------



## anetode

There is no comparison.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





anetode said:


> There is no comparison.


 

 +1, From my whole collection nothing even comes close to the SR009.


----------



## glassmaple

^ Probably true. I was just curious since there are quite a few HD800 vs SR009 comparision I read but nothing about the T1 at all. My impression is that the T1 was on the same plane of existence as the HD800, at least in a review.


----------



## shipsupt

Ok, the inside of the amp was clean, no signs of issues. I switched the voltage to 230v. Fired up and had the cut out in no time.

I swapped the source and it's been happily playing for over an hour now. So what does this mean about my source? It's a brand new NAD M51. It plays nicely with every other amp I connect it to. Would trying it connected unbalanced have any effect? Am I just not able to use it with the 717 or is there something on the DAC output that can be checked, or the sensitivity of the DC input protection on the 717?

Thanks. Good to make some progress.



kevin gilmore said:


> There is a DC input protection circuit on the 717. Try a different source.






spritzer said:


> Yup, either that or the amps own offset has drifted out of spec.  Too much dust inside the chassis can cause the heat to rise and with it the offset.







michgelsen said:


> My 717 has cut sound two times on very hot summer days, due to overheating. When the amp cools down, it should work again.
> On two or three other occasions, inserting the plug from the headphones while the amp was on caused the amp to go into this 'protection mode'. Switching off the amp and disconnecting power for a few seconds, then switching it back on made it work again. This is very rare though. Normally when I disconnect or connect headphones while the amp is on, nothing happens.
> I have read reports of 717s overheating due to being configured for the wrong voltage. For example the amp could be set for 220 volt when the line voltage is actually 230 volt, in which case it's better to set the amp for 240 volt operation.
> Can any of these points be the source of your problem?


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





glassmaple said:


> ^ Probably true. I was just curious since there are quite a few HD800 vs SR009 comparision I read but nothing about the T1 at all. My impression is that the T1 was on the same plane of existence as the HD800, at least in a review.


 
   
  Well it's German, but that's about where the similarities end. If you don't have an opportunity to try out a 1k+ headphone before you buy it I wouldn't chance going by any one HF review.


----------



## MorbidToaster

glassmaple said:


> ^ Probably true. I was just curious since there are quite a few HD800 vs SR009 comparision I read but nothing about the T1 at all. My impression is that the T1 was on the same plane of existence as the HD800, at least in a review.




More neutral than the T1...and then imagine every good part of the T1 but better. 

Kind of a similar comparison to the HD800 but I consider the HD800 closer to neutral than the T1. 

Since I heard it I've called it 'like an HD800 but better in every single way'.


----------



## glassmaple

@anetode: Sorry didn't mean to give the impression that I didn't try anything at that level. I did have the T1 for a while and am planning on getting the 009 next.
   
  @Morbid: Sounds good. I like how the T1 sounds but wish it was more transparent. Better everything is great, now if only it was better price...


----------



## anetode

The T1 has a peculiar set of colorations, including a treble tilt that gives you a kind of metallic clarity but while obscuring detail with resonances and distortion. The HD800 is much better behaved except around the 6khz region, otherwise notably better soundstage and detail. The jump to 009 is also an improvement however it is subject to diminishing returns. Over the HD800 the 009 scores a more even sound, slightly better detail extraction and a more closed in (though nonetheless still precise) soundstage.


----------



## arnaud

"Slightly better detail extraction". You must have heard the HD800 on a pretty good rig anetode else the 009 rig wasn't at its best . Mind you I went through the 007A in between my HD800 and my 009 so I don't have direct comparison between the two.


----------



## anetode

Being the geek that I am I did a volume-matched comparison with the 800 and 009 when I acquired the latter. There's a difference there but it's not vast, besides people tend to exaggerate that sort of thing to help delineate different types of phones (after all, stats are clearly superior in every way, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





).
   
  Then again most opinions I've read don't hold my type of 009 rig in very high regard. I'm afraid we're in the same 727-powered boat as far as that's concerned, Arnaud


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





glassmaple said:


> Can anyone give a comparison between Beyer T1 and the SR 009? I've been trying to find a comparison of someone that heard both on head fi for a while but nothing really came up. Only the big flagship comparision thread has anything like that.


 
   
  Quote: 





anetode said:


> There is no comparison.


 
   
  Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> +1, From my whole collection nothing even comes close to the SR009.


 
   
  I owned the T1s for more than 2 years (I no longer have them) and really enjoyed them. But that said, I gotta agree with anetode and dukeskd...not even close and no comparison whatsoever. 
   
  That said, the HD800s are right in between these two great cans IMO.


----------



## verber

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Being the geek that I am I did a volume-matched comparison with the 800 and 009 when I acquired the latter. There's a difference there but it's not vast, besides people tend to exaggerate that sort of thing to help delineate different types of phones (after all, stats are clearly superior in every way, right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  To my ears, the SR-009's (driven by a KGSSHV) had better detail extraction than the HD800 (driven by a dynahi).  It didn't take even a minute to reach that conclusion, and the more I listened, the more I was sure this was the case.  Later compared SR-009 from the KGSSHV and the 727-II.  The KGSSHV had a slight edge according to everyone present, but it was a close thing.  I am pretty sure that if I hadn't been listening really carefully to music I knew that I would have noticed a difference.
   
  --Mark


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





verber said:


> To my ears, the SR-009's (driven by a KGSSHV) had better detail extraction than the HD800 (driven by a dynahi).  It didn't take even a minute to reach that conclusion, and the more I listened, the more I was sure this was the case.  Later compared SR-009 from the KGSSHV and the 727-II.  The KGSSHV had a slight edge according to everyone present, but it was a close thing.  I am pretty sure that if I hadn't been listening really carefully to music I knew that I would have noticed a difference.
> 
> --Mark


 
  I can easily say that the SR-009 driven by a SRM-727II is head above shoulders better than the HD-800 driven by the GS-X, Liquid Fire, WA22, or B22.


----------



## ecohifi

The T1 can be aquired for $1100 down under and less, I like the SQ of the T1 but its bass is over powering,
   
  The HD800 with the SLP phonitor can be impressively live, via a CD, possible IMO best the 407 via a 006.  But the recording has to be top notch, with the average recording, the HD800 is not worth the dosh, its unlistenable!
   
  The 407 with the 006t is better overall in terms of speed and clarity for the average recording.


----------



## ecohifi

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I can easily say that the SR-009 driven by a SRM-727II is head above shoulders better than the HD-800 driven by the GS-X, Liquid Fire, WA22, or B22.


 
  Dont take this the wrong way but I take it that you have done the comparision and not assumed or have said it just for the heck of it????


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> Dont take this the wrong way but I take it that you have done the comparision and not assumed or have said it just for the heck of it????


 
  You're kidding right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  As they say, a picture's worth a thousand words...here's a few photos:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/23503/my-setup/


----------



## MorbidToaster

I laughed. MH is (arguably) one of those most experienced (gear wise) Head-fiers ever. 
   
  Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> Dont take this the wrong way but I take it that you have done the comparision and not assumed or have said it just for the heck of it????


 
   
  That being said I agree with him. 
   
  Having done the comparison myself between HD800 powered by a Liquid Fire (and Liquid Glass, my favorite amp with them) in my own home for an extended period I can agree completely with MH.
   
  I went into it expecting the HD800 to win out because of value vs improvement but man was I wrong. I'm a huge advocate of not overstating differences here because it misleads people...but the HD800 compared to the 009 is _not a subtle difference. _
   
  Oh, and I've said it many time before but I'll say it as needed I suppose. I feel that while the HD800s soundstage is bigger it is not more realistic. It makes things sound too big and blurs the edges because of this. The 009 is absolutely precise when it comes to staging.


----------



## DefQon

@MH: Do you ever get bored with having that amount of gear? Or a hard time picking one to suit your listening sessions?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> I laughed. MH is (arguably) one of those most experienced (gear wise) Head-fiers ever.
> 
> 
> That being said I agree with him.
> ...


 

 I have to agree with this also, and I doubt that MH would be giving out opinions on things he hasn't experienced himself.
   
  My venture with the SR009 definitely mirrors yours Morbid. I didn't think that more detail would come out of the music since I assumed the HD800 + Phonitor would be the pinnacle for exactly that. I was wrong, and even with the 727ii (it's not a BHSE
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and the SR009, I found stuff I never heard before on recordings I've listened to regularly on many setups. Another thing, I don't think any headphone sound stage can be natural, by that I mean real-life like. All headphones have different presentations for sound stage, but all are unnatural in my opinion. That said, I am very satisfied with the sound stage and especially the separation the SR009 offers. The HD800 on the other hand has a lot of airy/space between instruments that might be disconcerting in some cases or beneficial in others.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Musicality and natural sound is what my new speakers are for. 
   
  009s really couldn't touch 'em.
   
  Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I have to agree with this also, and I doubt that MH would be giving out opinions on things he hasn't experienced himself.
> 
> My venture with the SR009 definitely mirrors yours Morbid. I didn't think that more detail would come out of the music since I assumed the HD800 + Phonitor would be the pinnacle for exactly that. I was wrong, and even with the 727ii (it's not a BHSE
> 
> ...


----------



## rgs9200m

HD800 w/Pinnacle vs. 009 w/Stax 007t/ii amp is a close call.
  The Stax is slightly more analytical, a little more glassy and more liquid and smooth, but with more defined bass and a little more detail in vocals and instruments.
   
  The HD800 also has great bass, very satisfying and deep, with clear sweet highs that are extended to what seems infinity and still not painful, actually very satisfying highs, and they do not sound bright, just clear.
  Any reticence in the HD800 bass I used to detect has been put to rest in recent extended listening. I now love the bass in these.
   
  It's hard to say, and maybe I'll think about elaborating when I get some sleep, but the Sennheisers are a pure conventional driver cones-and-domes sound, a more
  point-source direct sound, while the Stax is definitely a planar sound, like a wall of sound, just like with, say, Martin Logan or Quad speakers vs. conventional speakers.
   
  Both setups are absolutely great and musical and thrilling with minimal to zero fatigue and make me feel (subjectively of course) that the musical experience is just as satisfying in its own way as a top notch speaker setup,
  but in a totally different way, of course...
   
  (My HD800s use an Apex Enigma balanced cable.)


----------



## gilency

Main reason for headphones is, my wife doesn't have to keep telling me to lower the volume.
  As a matter of fact, I enjoy headphones more than speakers. Strange, I know 
  Even with the lowly SRD7 Mk2, the 009 sounds great.
  My current build (KGSSHV) is slowly but surely being built.


----------



## ecohifi

Please accept my apologies MH, 

Being new around here makes me edgy on impressions. On an OZ forum, we caught out a dealer!


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> @MH: Do you ever get bored with having that amount of gear? Or a hard time picking one to suit your listening sessions?


 
  Nope. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Kinda depends on my mood on picking gear...but for the most part, its the SR-009s.
  Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> Please accept my apologies MH,
> 
> Being new around here makes me edgy on impressions. On an OZ forum, we caught out a dealer!


 
  So instead you shoot an attack on a fellow member without even looking at their signature or user profile? Just because you had an issue on some local forum, doesn't give you cart blanche to call some out without any digging whatsoever. Not kewl dude! 
   
  That said, I do accept your apologies.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Ok, the inside of the amp was clean, no signs of issues. I switched the voltage to 230v. Fired up and had the cut out in no time.
> 
> I swapped the source and it's been happily playing for over an hour now. So what does this mean about my source? It's a brand new NAD M51. It plays nicely with every other amp I connect it to. Would trying it connected unbalanced have any effect? Am I just not able to use it with the 717 or is there something on the DAC output that can be checked, or the sensitivity of the DC input protection on the 717?
> 
> Thanks. Good to make some progress.


 

 The M51 is outputting DC which the DC coupled 717 amplifies faithfully.  No source should output DC....


----------



## shipsupt

Can I measure it with a multi-meter?  Is this something I should consider returning the DAC to NAD to have corrected?  I understand your point that there should be no DC on the line, but is there any tolerance for even some stray DC?
   
  Sorry for all the questions, this one is completely new to me.
   
  FWIW
  I've read a lot of threads on the M51 and haven't heard of anyone else with a similar issue.  Doesn't mean it hasn't happened.


----------



## spritzer

I would return it personally but if you have a multimeter you can measure it.  For RCA you place the red probe into the hole and the black probe on the sleeve.  For XLR you place the black probe on pin 1 and the red probe on both nr. 2 and nr. 3 for each output.  The dac has to be on for this and playing music in case there is a relay shutting off the output. 
   
  Adjust the meter to the lowest DC voltage setting if it isn't auto ranging.


----------



## shipsupt

Thanks.  Out of curiosity I'll check it, and then I'll start talking to NAD about return and replacement.


----------



## glassmaple

@anetode, arnaud, MacedonianHero, MorbidToaster, dukeskd, rgs9200m: Thanks for all your impressions. You can always count on Head-Fi to reinforce your buying decisions.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





glassmaple said:


> @anetode, arnaud, MacedonianHero, MorbidToaster, dukeskd, rgs9200m: Thanks for all your impressions. *You can always count on Head-Fi to reinforce your buying decisions.*


 
  And burning your wallet at the same time.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Addiction.
   
  There I fixed it. SH Forums have been reinforcing my addiction to vinyl lately. 
   
  Quote: 





glassmaple said:


> @anetode, arnaud, MacedonianHero, MorbidToaster, dukeskd, rgs9200m: Thanks for all your impressions. You can always count on Head-Fi to reinforce your buying decisions.


----------



## ecohifi

shipsupt said:


> Can I measure it with a multi-meter?  Is this something I should consider returning the DAC to NAD to have corrected?  I understand your point that there should be no DC on the line, but is there any tolerance for even some stray DC?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, this one is completely new to me.
> 
> ...




The M51 is a nice sounding dac, it has the best volume control that I have ever tested and that includes most over the counter Alps, Allen Bradley, a range of carbon and plastic film throughout my journey in this hobby, as far as I'm concern none of these go near it. However the M51 is poorly put together and the soldering on the pcb is less than desireable even for a cheap produced toy. When I got my M51, the minute I placed it in my rig one channel was intermittently tripping the speaker protection and a static hum could be heard coming on and disappearing during the 1st track.
I decided to take it back and the dealer had it on test on there showroom floor for 2 wks and decided to send it back with NFF. I contacted the distributor threatening to sue if it blew my speakers and that forced the dealer to send it an authorised tech. When I got it back it look like they hit every analog component with a soldering iron. Six mths in, one of the relays in the analog section was also slow to come on, that's now corrected itself after a session of switching it off/on. This isn't the 1st I have heard issues with the M51, there are many others on other forums with similar issues. The solder process on the pcb is a real let down for a top flight dac that's supposed to have bullet proof built quality.

No stray DC should ever be present in source components and that includes preamps, if I were in your shoes I send it back!


----------



## pkshan

My friend just got an used T1S, the amp can be turn on & sing,
   
  but the transformer seems...strange,it's fatty
   
  Where can i buy replacement transformer?..
   
  thanks


----------



## rubenpp

[size=1.4em] Stax SR-009 & Woo Audio WES (Free Stand and Extension Cable) - $9500 (Downtown)[/size]  http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/3544219780.html.
   
  In case anyone in L.A. is interested.


----------



## En_R

rubenpp said:


> [size=1.4em]Stax SR-009 & Woo Audio WES (Free Stand and Extension Cable) - $9500 (Downtown)[/size]
> 
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/3544219780.html.
> 
> In case anyone in L.A. is interested.




If anyone is looking for this combo I'd check out this guy first

http://www.head-fi.org/t/631231/fs-price-down-woo-audio-wes-update-tube-009-sell-in-australia

(around 7300USD, and he gives you some nice shuguang tubes)

I've dealt with him before and he is an excellent seller.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





en_r said:


> If anyone is looking for this combo I'd check out this guy first
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/631231/fs-price-down-woo-audio-wes-update-tube-009-sell-in-australia
> 
> ...


 
   
  ^
  Definitely worth looking into


----------



## MorbidToaster

I'd call that overpriced if you ask me. 
   
  Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> [size=1.4em] Stax SR-009 & Woo Audio WES (Free Stand and Extension Cable) - $9500 (Downtown)[/size]  http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/3544219780.html.
> 
> In case anyone in L.A. is interested.


----------



## ecohifi

soundoholic said:


> Sorry, as I think the ring serves as attachment for the cable (round?!). Now I have only the question to the position of pins and slots.




I have a SRM-1 MK2, 

Judging from the pin layout of the plug, I measure -35V on the left output, between -left and +left.

I get 8.24 on the -right and the + right

I get 343.4 on the bias out, measured from the bias and the gnd point at the rear.

I'm unsure on how to get zero offset on my left and right output. The left is way off, since I have no instructions on bias set up, is it a matter of turning the bias/offset pots only or is there something else on the left channel that I have to look at and chase?


From the headset there is a slight reduction in volume in the left.


Any advise or help would benefit!!!


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





tjj226 angel said:


> Forgive me for being such a noob, but with only 24 hours left on the bidding, can someone possibly give me an idea if http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m103832334 this is any good, and what to look out for in terms of shipping and so forth. I would really appreciate it.


 
   
  I got it for $300, condition is like new 
  it sounds natural, with a musical,sweet atmosphere,
  I found myself like the LNS more than the more expensive 507, 
  good luck
   
v


----------



## spritzer

On the SRM-1 Mk2 the offset and balance pot labels are reversed for some reason.  So you adjust the offset at the balance pot etc.


----------



## ecohifi

ecohifi said:


> I have a SRM-1 MK2,
> 
> Judging from the pin layout of the plug, I measure -35V on the left output, between -left and +left.
> 
> ...




OK, I found the link, 

Have the unit on at least 15-20 min

You placed the MM probes on the + and -of the lleft output, turn the offset so it slowly reaches zero, then adj bias till it reaches zero.

Do this for the right channel, why you do it this way? The labels on the pcb is reversed

Funny how the left channel is more veriable and touchy compared to the right.

Comment from anyone who are miles more knowledgeable please !!!


----------



## Hun7er

I have got a used SR507 that impress me, I sold it to try another stuff. It's worth to try Stax lambda Nova Signature or SR Sigma pro ?


----------



## pkshan

The LNS sounds a bit foggy when compared to 507
   
  507 has more impact ,clearer sound,
   
  the LNS delivers music on a lovely way
   
  gonna try the 507 leather pad on LNS


----------



## Hun7er

Versus the HE6 and HD800 paired by a B22, my reproach to SR507 is the lack of air, maybe with another pad and another amp, it was paired with a SR007t.


----------



## ecohifi

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> On the SRM-1 Mk2 the offset and balance pot labels are reversed for some reason.  So you adjust the offset at the balance pot etc.


 
   
  Thanks Spritzer,
   
  I found and followed the  link, little confused on the actual offset adjustment.  If you followed the procedure word for word, the offset adj is placing the +o/put to the +probe and the neg probe to gnd, you cannot get or acheive zero adj???  So I adj the pot thats marked offset to as close as zero I can get it
   
  Dont know whether this is normal, once adjusted the reading still varies and fluctuates like crazy, after 1hr of listening I have checked it again, the reading for the left is -11.4V  and the right is -5.6V.
   
  Once adjusted the balance came back level and I had to adj the pot for balance,  Im not sure whether its pycho me, but I swear the thing sounds better!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Are all Stax electronics like this or do I have to look at something else thats failed???


----------



## spritzer

If you grounded the - probe and adjusted the pot labeled "offset" then that is incorrect.  That is in reality the balance pot and that you measure between the + and - of each channel.  That said, 5V is nothing in an amp that can swing 1300Vp-p.


----------



## shipsupt

For anyone who's been keeping up with my little SRM-717 / NAD M51 saga... I put a few 10db attenuators in line and I've been able to stay up and running for several hours now...  Plan to keep things up and running tonight until late to see if this additional resistance is enough to keep things from tripping.


----------



## ecohifi

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> For anyone who's been keeping up with my little SRM-717 / NAD M51 saga... I put a few 10db attenuators in line and I've been able to stay up and running for several hours now...  Plan to keep things up and running tonight until late to see if this additional resistance is enough to keep things from tripping.


 
  If the issue is happening on XLR, try the RCA to see if the issue occurs, with XLR you have to be careful as different parts of the world actually wires the XLR differently,  this may account for your issue.  The M51 has a pin output diagram at the rear of the unit and looking at a photo of the rear of the 717 it to also as a diagram of the pin config, check that the pins going out of the M51 corresponds to the XLR in configuration of the 717, you may find that the -ve pin on the XLR is different to other XLR equipment.  I discovered in a M51 forum that the XLR output cannot be directly connected to a US made XLR preamp as the preamp had the -ve pin wired directly to the shield of the M51
  Failing that I strongly recommend that you take the M51 back to the point of purchase if its still under warranty.  The soldering on the pcb is a little to be desired. As there should be absolutely zero DC present at the source
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If you grounded the - probe and adjusted the pot labeled "offset" then that is incorrect.  That is in reality the balance pot and that you measure between the + and - of each channel.  That said, 5V is nothing in an amp that can swing 1300Vp-p.


 
  Many Thxns spritzer for you reply,
  so all balance adjustments must be done with the MM probes on the + & - ve ouput to each channel.


----------



## jaycalgary

I hope the Headamp KGSS uses the same pin out as the Nad M51? That is what I have hooked up now and it works so must be okay? I took a pic of the back of m Nad M51 and a random pic of the back of the SRM-717 off the web. From what I can tell they are a different pin out. I had a W4S dac 2 and it worked fine with the SRM-717. I know my SRM-717 is a North American model and it might be a different from the Japanese model.


----------



## pkshan

Tried the 507 leather pad on lambda nova signature,
  the timbre & balance are just perfect to me,
  very close to the original sound, i can forget i'm listening to a headphone,just music
   
  The LNS is my favorite lambda now


----------



## shipsupt

Wow, I'm feeling pretty embarrassed for not checking the pin configuration.  I honestly did not know that they might be different, and since it was working on hookup I never suspected it.  I will check out the diagrams on my NAD and 717 tonight to confirm, but I suspect we are getting to the root cause now.
   
  It is interesting that with the attenuators in line everything works fine, no cut outs.
   
  For the record I never had trouble when using the RCA connections, but I have not gone back to that since changing to the XLR connections. 
   
   
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I hope the Headamp KGSS uses the same pin out as the Nad M51? That is what I have hooked up now and it works so must be okay? I took a pic of the back of m Nad M51 and a random pic of the back of the SRM-717 off the web. From what I can tell they are a different pin out. I had a W4S dac 2 and it worked fine with the SRM-717. I know my SRM-717 is a North American model and it might be a different from the Japanese model.


 
   
  Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> If the issue is happening on XLR, try the RCA to see if the issue occurs, with XLR you have to be careful as different parts of the world actually wires the XLR differently,  this may account for your issue.  The M51 has a pin output diagram at the rear of the unit and looking at a photo of the rear of the 717 it to also as a diagram of the pin config, check that the pins going out of the M51 corresponds to the XLR in configuration of the 717, you may find that the -ve pin on the XLR is different to other XLR equipment.  I discovered in a M51 forum that the XLR output cannot be directly connected to a US made XLR preamp as the preamp had the -ve pin wired directly to the shield of the M51
> Failing that I strongly recommend that you take the M51 back to the point of purchase if its still under warranty.  The soldering on the pcb is a little to be desired. As there should be absolutely zero DC present at the source


----------



## ecohifi

jaycalgary said:


> I hope the Headamp KGSS uses the same pin out as the Nad M51? That is what I have hooked up now and it works so must be okay? I took a pic of the back of m Nad M51 and a random pic of the back of the SRM-717 off the web. From what I can tell they are a different pin out. I had a W4S dac 2 and it worked fine with the SRM-717. I know my SRM-717 is a North American model and it might be a different from the Japanese model.




Check this out: http://www.clarkwire.com/PinOutXLRBalanced.htm

Notice the comment on vintage equipment, please be aware that the -ve point of the XLR is not chassis gnd and some manufacturer also connect them together, if this is the case than the equipment is not a true Balance system, the -ve pin on a true balance system is for the -ve phase, which is why a balance system is referred as differential.
Note that the M51 is wired to the standards where pin 2 is hot, note where the hot pin is on the Stax.
@ jaycalgary
Off the topic and of the rail,
Can you give us a bit of insight on the difference between the WFS and the M51?


----------



## ecohifi

shipsupt said:


> Wow, I'm feeling pretty embarrassed for not checking the pin configuration.  I honestly did not know that they might be different, and since it was working on hookup I never suspected it.  I will check out the diagrams on my NAD and 717 tonight to confirm, but I suspect we are getting to the root cause now.
> 
> It is interesting that with the attenuators in line everything works fine, no cut outs.
> 
> For the record I never had trouble when using the RCA connections, but I have not gone back to that since changing to the XLR connections.




You are not the only one getting caught out so don't feel embarrassed, I was caught out helping another member who was having noise and hum issues when he connected his M51 in balance mode.

It's all a learning curve that's part of the journey in this hobby


----------



## spritzer

The XLR setup really doesn't matter in the grand scheme as all it does is reverse the absolute phase.  
   
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> For anyone who's been keeping up with my little SRM-717 / NAD M51 saga... I put a few 10db attenuators in line and I've been able to stay up and running for several hours now...  Plan to keep things up and running tonight until late to see if this additional resistance is enough to keep things from tripping.


 
   
  The voltage divider inside those things also divides the DC voltage so it should help.


----------



## ecohifi

Reverse phase effects imaging


----------



## shipsupt

The m51 has the function to reverse the phase.


----------



## jaycalgary

"Can you give us a bit of insight on the difference between the W4S and the M51?
  W4S vs M51 from what I remember is that the W4S left me wondering if they was really anything to spending a lot of money on a dac. I thought there was some kind of harshness in the mid treble with the W4S. The M51 is a whole lot smoother and much more bass. The M51 also has sound stage depth that I never noticed on the W4S. This is a big part of why when I started listening to the M51 it was like okay so this is why people spend good money on a dac. I did have a suspicion that the Nad may be making things up to sound a certain ay than is actually true when I first started listening to it though. I don't think I would ever be interested in hearing the W4S again though.


----------



## livewire

Quote:Originally Posted by *jaycalgary* /img/forum/go_quote.gif

  I don't think I would ever be interested in hearing the W4S again though.
   
  Me neither. This is the Stax thread. Take the DAC talk elsewhere.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> Reverse phase effects imaging


 
   
  No, it doesn't.  Loudspeakers being driven out of phase (essentially backwards) is clearly audible but absolute phase isn't.  The reason dacs have a phase switch is because there is no standard for recording phase so many recordings are out of absolute phase.


----------



## Olias of Sunhillow

As someone who is contemplating adding the M51 to his new Stax rig, I find this conversation quite relevant and important. Please continue.


----------



## Hun7er

How worth is the Stax Lambda Nova ?


----------



## ecohifi

spritzer said:


> No, it doesn't.  Loudspeakers being driven out of phase (essentially backwards) is clearly audible but absolute phase isn't.  The reason dacs have a phase switch is because there is no standard for recording phase so many recordings are out of absolute phase.




Agreed with the speakers spritzer, however never tried it with cans, I might do this tonite, as the M51 his phase feature.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





hun7er said:


> How worth is the Stax Lambda Nova ?


 
  Last one on ebay went for $550 including shipping to the states. You'd find more SR-5, older electrets and Lambda/Pro's and Sigmas more common on ebay when they do pop up.


----------



## Amarphael

So i'm trying to get my O2 earpads refurbished and my rant/question is: How come the earpads are designed so that the foam inserts can be pulled easily without any stiching, however it's all but impossible the order just the foam without purchase of all-new cushions. All three ditributors that i've contacted have responded that Stax only provides complete earpads. 
  Is this design only to cut costs (time) during manufacturing?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> So i'm trying to get my O2 earpads refurbished and my rant/question is: How come the earpads are designed so that the foam inserts can be pulled easily without any stiching, however it's all but impossible the order just the foam without purchase of all-new cushions. All three ditributors that i've contacted have responded that Stax only provides complete earpads.
> Is this design only to cut costs (time) during manufacturing?


 
  I think they did this just to annoy YOU, specifically.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  There's many things I don't get about Stax...  like why did they make the Sr007  mk "2.5" sound the way they do?  Or even the mk 2's?  Why not just leave them alone in mk I form?
   
  ======================================================================
   
  Maybe figure a way to make your own foam inserts by cutting out a ring from a flat thick sheet of foam?  Or stack multiple rings cut from thin sheets of foam?  Or take some polyfill (pillow stuffing) and fashion it into a ring and stuff it in there?  Or a ring shaped blob of polyfill with a ring of foam cut from a thin sheet on top to 'square it off?'


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





ecohifi said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The XLR/RCA selector switch looks like it was not set to XLR, which might have crossed the -ve to ground, which might have been the issue too.


----------



## Nemeske88

Dear Forum!
   
  1. Has anyone got any info about how long STAX was manufacturing the Normal Bias Lambdas? I am aware that it was introduced in 1979. Was it's production finished in 1982 when the pros were introduced?
   
  2. Do somebody know if there any chance to get a replace set of cable for an old SR-Lambda?
   
  Thanks


----------



## K_19

Question about the older Lambda series earspeakers: Do they have the swivel mechanism or otherwise allow for good degree of swivel for their cups in all directions? I've never tried or seen one in person and can't quite tell from the pictures whether they allow for swivel horizontally or not. My head/face is extremely sensitive to pressure points in certain areas and headphones that don't swivel or otherwise allow for adjustments here (the 007's that I have now, thankfully, can achieve this to a degree by bending the arcs) really don't play well with me comfort wise.  It's part of the reason why I never found the Senn's HD6xx series of headphones particularly comfortable because they really don't swivel freely enough to fit my head comfortably.. same with the Koss ESP950's as they don't swivel at all and there is no way to relieve that pressure on the front side of the pads.
   
  I'd like to try the Lambda series someday but if they don't swivel enough then I know they won't fit me comfortably so I probably wouldn't bother...


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Question about the older Lambda series earspeakers: Do they have the swivel mechanism or otherwise allow for good degree of swivel for their cups in all directions? I've never tried or seen one in person and can't quite tell from the pictures whether they allow for swivel horizontally or not. My head/face is extremely sensitive to pressure points in certain areas and headphones that don't swivel or otherwise allow for adjustments here (the 007's that I have now, thankfully, can achieve this to a degree by bending the arcs) really don't play well with me comfort wise.  It's part of the reason why I never found the Senn's HD6xx series of headphones particularly comfortable because they really don't swivel freely enough to fit my head comfortably.. same with the Koss ESP950's as they don't swivel at all and there is no way to relieve that pressure on the front side of the pads.
> 
> I'd like to try the Lambda series someday but if they don't swivel enough then I know they won't fit me comfortably so I probably wouldn't bother...


 
  yes they do, about 30 degrees. very light and no clamping force. it's like wearing hummingbird wings (not that i'd ever do that) i'm sure you get the idea.
  heres a new stand i made for my nb lambda and srm 1 mk2


----------



## Otakusound

I'm guessing by older lambda series you are referring to the original Lambda, Lambda Pro, and Lambda Signature. If so, the answer is yes, they have a good amount of swivel to conform to the sides of ones head. They're not quite as comfortable for me as the Omega 2, but they're still more comfortable than most headphones out there. Now with the Nova and number series lambdas, the new arc assembly allows for a bit less swivel of the cups, and I find them just slightly less comfortable than the first series. I know what you mean with the ESP950; despite how light they are they still don't feel like they conform to your head but rather that they're being balanced there.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

yeah, the lambda style is pretty comfortable.  they just sit beautifully on top of your head.  cant really lay down with them though, if thats a desire.  well, you can if you have some support behind them.. they do indeed swivel plenty I would think.  you will NOT have any clamping force problems I'm sure.


----------



## bearFNF

Yep, the Lambda normals swivel about 10 degrees counter-clockwise and 20 degress clockwise (looking down the stem from the top, zero would be with the earspeaker frame aligned fore and aft with the carrier).
   
  @-Nemeske88 - By cables do you mean extension cables or the cables attached to the earspeakers?  There should be extensions available here and there, Maybe from Stax: https://www.staxusa.com/Service.html 
   
  I have the original Brochure we used when buying our Lamda Normals and it is dated 1988 if that helps with your other question.
  Someone that knows more about the production life should chime in soon...


----------



## ecohifi

Anyone know whether Stax will be producing something thats better than the 009 and the current range of Lamdbas????


----------



## deadlylover

ecohifi said:


> Anyone know whether Stax will be producing something thats better than the 009 and the current range of Lamdbas????:rolleyes:




Considering that it took over a decade for them to come up with a new high end offering since the Omega 2, I wouldn't hold your breath. 

I hope we get something that improves upon the O2 sound signature for next time.


----------



## wuwhere

Considering that they just got bought out, I seriously doubt that the new owner would be willing to invest money on developing a new flagship.


----------



## milosz

It would seem logical that they would want to create a new product destined to generate a greater volume of sales -  not sure how they would do this, but I think using the "cachet"  of the top-of-the-line SR-009 to sell a lower-priced line might be the conventional business wisdom here.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Considering that they just got bought out, I seriously doubt that the new owner would be willing to invest money on developing a new flagship.


 
  Agreed. I heard that a new Stax amp will be coming though. But that's basically all that I know about it...


----------



## shipsupt

I finally got around to opening my Lambda Nova Signatures today.  I figured I'd post some of the details as others might be looking for the same kind of information I was not too long ago.  Sorry to bore the guys who've read this sort of thing 100 times.
   
  This was in response to noticing that one of the drivers had started to pull away from the housing.  I was able to just pull the ear pads back at the corners enough to expose the small phillips head screws and remove them.  I was equipped with replacement ear pads if I needed them, but I've decided that the current pads have some more life left, so I didn't make the change.  
   
  I was removed and replaced the double sided tape between the driver and the housing and put everything back as it should be.  
   
  I should have anticipated that the backwave foam in the cages would be deteriorating, and sure enough it was already turning to dust.  I cleaned all of it out of everywhere in the unit I had open, and then opened the other side to do the same thing.  I've reassembled with no foam in place, and plan to leave them like this as I don't think this foam is something still produced as a spare?  From my quick search, other than loosing a little dust protection leaving the backs open should have little effect?
   
  Anyway, thanks for the previous advice, this went smoothly.
   
  BTW, the old LNSs are on my head and sounding wonderful again.  I had considered selling them at some point, but I'm not sure I want to part with them.


----------



## autoteleology

Does the amplifier used make a big difference in low-end systems?

 I happened to see a great deal (or so I think) for a Stax 2020 combo for ~$470. Is the amp going to be low-end enough to be a throwaway if I decide to upgrade?
   
  This will be my first Stax system if I make the jump, BTW.


----------



## n3rdling

I kinda miss those LNS, really nice headphones.  Glad you're enjoying them!  You can always buy some open cell foam on the cheap and put it in the housing.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


milosz said:


> Maybe figure a way to make your own foam inserts by cutting out a ring from a flat thick sheet of foam?  Or stack multiple rings cut from thin sheets of foam?  Or take some polyfill (pillow stuffing) and fashion it into a ring and stuff it in there?  Or a ring shaped blob of polyfill with a ring of foam cut from a thin sheet on top to 'square it off?'


 
   
  I actually went to a upholestery shop to try fashion some replicas but they didn't have enough refined tools to cut the right angle of the pads. So now i'm stuck with some half-beaten pads that sound like they look. I think it's quite frusterating that on one hand the Omegas are so fit dependant yet it's practically impossible to replace the foaming even though it's so accessible and is kid's play to replace it.
   
  There isn't anyway to contact Stax direct, assuming i can't write in Japanese correct...?


----------



## spritzer

The new Lambdas all use the same foam on the inside of the chamber so it is available as a spare part. 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I kinda miss those LNS, really nice headphones.  Glad you're enjoying them!  You can always buy some open cell foam on the cheap and put it in the housing.


 
   
  I think you'd love these LNS drivers in a HE90 housing then.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  None of the drawbacks of the Lambda housing and they look stunning.  Sound stunning off this brand new BH I just finished.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The new Lambdas all use the same foam on the inside of the chamber so it is available as a spare part.


 
   
  Intersting, but doesn't it involves dealing with the stitches to replace it?


----------



## Headzone

I asked this question before, but I didn't get an answer.
   
  Anyways, is it safe to use my Stax when the foam has rottened off? I mean is it possible for dust/hair go into the drivers and damage them?


----------



## shipsupt

Sweet.  I think I will go ahead and track it down.  I didn't see any foam listed on the STAX USA site so assumed it wasn't a standard replacement part.
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The new Lambdas all use the same foam on the inside of the chamber so it is available as a spare part.
> 
> 
> I think you'd love these LNS drivers in a HE90 housing then.
> ...


 
   
   
   
  After having the SR-202 for a while it was really the LNS that was the "gateway drug" that has sent me fully down the dark road of more expensive stats, building and buying amps etc...  But I have to say I'm enjoying the trip, so thanks for getting me hooked.
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I kinda miss those LNS, really nice headphones.  Glad you're enjoying them!  You can always buy some open cell foam on the cheap and put it in the housing.


----------



## Headzone

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Sweet.  I think I will go ahead and track it down.  I didn't see any foam listed on the STAX USA site so assumed it wasn't a standard replacement part.
> 
> 
> 
> After having the SR-202 for a while it was really the LNS that was the "gateway drug" that has sent me fully down the dark road of more expensive stats, building and buying amps etc...  But I have to say I'm enjoying the trip, so thanks for getting me hooked.


 

 How do you feel the SR-202 compares to popular dynamics such as HD600, DT880 etc? Is it same league or better? I have both SR-202 and HD600 at hand, but I still don't have amp for the Staxes so can't compare myself


----------



## autoteleology

> How do you feel the SR-202 compares to popular dynamics such as HD600, DT880 etc? Is it same league or better? I have both SR-202 and HD600 at hand, but I still don't have amp for the Staxes so can't compare myself


 
   
  This. I am about to put my bank account to zero buying the Stax 2020 system, I want to know if it's really worth the trouble.


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





headzone said:


> How do you feel the SR-202 compares to popular dynamics such as HD600, DT880 etc? Is it same league or better? I have both SR-202 and HD600 at hand, but I still don't have amp for the Staxes so can't compare myself


 

 IMO the SR202 is a league above that level of dynamics and can compete with HE5/500 level - in other words, better than HD600/650/DT880/K701 but not as good as LCD2/HD800/T1. This opinion depends a lot on what you value in terms of sound signature, but for me the speed, detail, and transparency of my old SR202 beat the pants off any dynamic even close to its price. It's a different type of sound, and something I think everyone interested in high-end headphones should hear at some point. The first time I went to a meet and listened to stats, I was hooked.
   
  There are things dynamics do better, like bass impact, extension, and "fun factor" but if it's speed and clarity you're looking for, it's very diffult to beat electrostatics.
   
  BTW If you're talking about the SRS2020 on the FS/T forums, I almost jumped on that until I snagged a set of Koss ESP950, which I've never heard. It's a good deal.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I think you'd love these LNS drivers in a HE90 housing then.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Sounds cool!  Wouldn't there be bass rolloff issues having those smallish drivers in that housing though?
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Intersting, but doesn't it involves dealing with the stitches to replace it?


 
  He's talking about the foam behind the drivers, not in the earpads.
  Quote: 





headzone said:


> I asked this question before, but I didn't get an answer.
> 
> Anyways, is it safe to use my Stax when the foam has rottened off? I mean is it possible for dust/hair go into the drivers and damage them?


 
  Yes it's safe.  There are really old Lambdas without foam that still sound as-new.  The foam offers some protection against dust, but the drivers are sealed with dust covers so it won't be an issue unless those develop a hole.
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> After having the SR-202 for a while it was really the LNS that was the "gateway drug" that has sent me fully down the dark road of more expensive stats, building and buying amps etc...  But I have to say I'm enjoying the trip, so thanks for getting me hooked.


 
   
  I'm always happy to get more people aboard the stats train. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





headzone said:


> How do you feel the SR-202 compares to popular dynamics such as HD600, DT880 etc? Is it same league or better? I have both SR-202 and HD600 at hand, but I still don't have amp for the Staxes so can't compare myself


 
  Before I ever got into electrostats I had a DT880.  I bought a Lambda Signature on a whim and that DT880 didn't get used for about a year until I finally sold it off.  I'd say Lambdas best any dynamic aside from the HD800 and a few out of production models.


----------



## autoteleology

Is it a good idea to clean out dust from a Stax with compressed air? If it's good enough for my PC, it's good enough for my headphones, right?


----------



## arnaud

Yeah, and a little round in the dishwasher once in while helps too. If it's good for my dishes, it's good for my headphones right?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Is it a good idea to clean out dust from a Stax with compressed air? If it's good enough for my PC, it's good enough for my headphones, right?


 
   
  I personally would not recommend that but they're not my headphones. What are you trying to clean out (deteriorated foam, hairs,...)?


----------



## autoteleology

> I personally would not recommend that but they're not my headphones. What are you trying to clean out (deteriorated foam, hairs,...)?


 
   
  I'd be trying to clean out dust, as I've read it makes your Stax squeak.
   


> Yeah, and a little round in the dishwasher once in while helps too. If it's good for my dishes, it's good for my headphones right?


 
   
  Please, tell me about all the similarities platters of material have to high-power electronic media devices adverse to water (AKA PCs or Stax headphones).

 Your analogy all but missed the point here. If you were trying to be funny, you failed to leave any signs that you were joking; hence, I'm taking it at face value.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I'd be trying to clean out dust, as I've read it makes your Stax squeak.


 
   
  Okay. Reading your posts above it appears you are considering buying a SRS2020 system and you havent got a pair of Stax yet??
   
  If that's right I'd wait until you get the pair to see if you actually have any problems; if they do squeak (itself an uncommon problem) I'd see if there were any stray hairs, etc I could remove by hand. I'd plug them into an amp for a few hours to see if that alleviates the problem.


----------



## Maxvla

ikarios said:


> IMO the SR202 is a league above that level of dynamics and can compete with HE5/500 level - in other words, better than HD600/650/DT880/K701 but not as good as LCD2/HD800/T1. This opinion depends a lot on what you value in terms of sound signature, but for me the speed, detail, and transparency of my old SR202 beat the pants off any dynamic even close to its price. It's a different type of sound, and something I think everyone interested in high-end headphones should hear at some point. The first time I went to a meet and listened to stats, I was hooked.
> 
> There are things dynamics do better, like bass impact, extension, and "fun factor" but if it's speed and clarity you're looking for, it's very diffult to beat electrostatics.



This was my experience as well with the HD600 (balanced) vs SR202. I ended up preferring the HD600's signature and impact, but I would say the SR202 is a more technically capable headphone. The owner of the SR202 offered to sell it to me, and I thought about it on and off for a couple years, but eventually leaped to the SR-007MK1 then back to dynamic land with the HD800.


----------



## arnaud

tus-chan said:


> Please, tell me about all the similarities platters of material have to high-power electronic media devices adverse to water (AKA PCs or Stax headphones).
> Your analogy all but missed the point here. If you were trying to be funny, you failed to leave any signs that you were joking; hence, I'm taking it at face value.




It's all plastic and metal stuff, isn't it?

Seriously, if you're going to invest into stats, read a bit about the technology. Dust blower isn't as bad as using a vaccum cleaner, but I'd still stay of any such process unless it's your last hope...


----------



## Ikarios

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I'd be trying to clean out dust, as I've read it makes your Stax squeak.
> 
> 
> Please, tell me about all the similarities platters of material have to high-power electronic media devices adverse to water (AKA PCs or Stax headphones).
> ...


 
   
  Doesn't some compressed air leave a residue on whatever it sprays on? It's not totally air, but propellant and bitterant IIRC. I would use one of those rocket ship air dusters or something of the sort, my friend had one and it worked pretty well for carefully cleaning out grills and stuff.


----------



## autoteleology

Yeah, the bitterant does leave a residue, but not all compressed air has bitterants, and there are variants that use a hand pump to pressurize air and then spray the air pumped into the can.

 Assuming there isn't any form of bitterant, it would theoretically be safe, right?


----------



## arnaud

I wouldn't blow air on the electrode directly. Also, the issue with dust is once it gets inside the electrode, past the thin impervious dust screen, isn't it? In which case, I am not sure blowig air on the screens would help with anything. Anyhow, I am sure spritzer will intervene and you can surely trust his words...


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Is it a good idea to clean out dust from a Stax with compressed air? If it's good enough for my PC, it's good enough for my headphones, right?


 

 Do you have dust in your Stax, or was that a rhetorical question?  Dust is a concern for some . . .


----------



## autoteleology

It's just a rhetorical question. The Stax I've got my eyes on in particular is a pretty well-worn one with the cup foam deteriorated, so I wanted to know the best way to go about cleaning them before I use them.


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> It's just a rhetorical question. The Stax I've got my eyes on in particular is a pretty well-worn one with the cup foam deteriorated, so I wanted to know the best way to go about cleaning them before I use them.


 

 I got this from Stax a few months back . . . some of us are concerned because we live in dusty environments.  The best advice seems to be to keep the headphones in a sealed container case when not in use.  Blowing out the dust is something that was discussed earlier.  It seems to be a bad idea as I recall.  I recently used the sticky side of some packing tape to clean the dust out of an ear cup.  It took a lot of tape, but it worked.
   
  Quote: 





> _[size=small]Thank you for your inquiry and your interest in STAX products.[/size]_
> 
> _[size=small]STAX products are electrostatic and sensitive to dust. It is of sealed design but do not recommend use in a dusty environment. If cleaning and/or repairs become necessary, they will not be covered under the manufacturer's warranty and the sound elements are not a repairable part. Replacement sound elements take up over 80% of the cost of headphone and replacing them yearly or twice a year would not be economical.[/size]  [size=small]We've had a handful of dust related service this year but most are 30-40 year old headphones.[/size]_


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> I recently used the sticky side of some packing tape to clean the dust out of an ear cup.  It took a lot of tape, but it worked.


 
  This ^


----------



## livewire

Please do not use vacuum or compressed air. It could ruin your drivers.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Does the amplifier used make a big difference in low-end systems?
> 
> I happened to see a great deal (or so I think) for a Stax 2020 combo for ~$470. Is the amp going to be low-end enough to be a throwaway if I decide to upgrade?
> 
> This will be my first Stax system if I make the jump, BTW.


 
  I have the 2050 system. The amp does fine.
  A better amp will help, marginally. (SRM-323)
   
  If you want something that will rock your sox, get the SR-009 with a BHSE. 
  $10K should do it.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> If you want something that will rock your sox, get the SR-009 with a BHSE.
> $10K should do it.


 
  And a dcs Scarlatti DAC setup.


----------



## livewire

Nice touch wink!


----------



## livewire

Although I must say that my ODAC does just fine.


----------



## shipsupt

Come on now, some of us are on a budget!  We've got to live with the 007 MK I and the BHSE 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> I have the 2050 system. The amp does fine.
> A better amp will help, marginally. (SRM-323)
> 
> If you want something that will rock your sox, get the SR-009 with a BHSE.
> $10K should do it.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Come on now, some of us are on a budget!  We've got to live with the 007 MK I and the BHSE


 
   
  Very nice! I've heard it. That setup aint no slouch.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Sounds cool!  Wouldn't there be bass rolloff issues having those smallish drivers in that housing though?


 
   
  There is virtually no size difference between the HE90 drivers and the Lambda ones, the Stax units are are just more compact due to being glued together.  They might even have a bit more open area but it is very close. 
   
  The bass on the stock HE90 is pretty weak and these are a substantial improvement.  They don't challenge the SR-007 or SR-Omega for bass prowess but what does?  The biggest thing for me is the imaging as the "fog" is gone but it's still expansive. 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Please do not use vacuum or compressed air. It could ruin your drivers.


 
   
  That is pretty much it, either vacuum cleaners or compressed air of any kind is a very stupid idea.  The diaphragms are about 2um thick and forcing them in any way will cut them to pieces.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Hi, all:
  have been using the SR-507 and 006ts for awhile. Sometimes it has been heavenly, at other times a bit lean or bright.  Or maybe it's that I feel like I have to turn the volume up too high trying to get dynamics and a sense of fullness. So... There is a *SRM-1/Mk2* for sale on the sale forum. Not the prettiest but not the rattiest I've ever seen. Seller asking $400. *I have three questions on which I would appreciate your feedback*:
   

 Will this unit provide a markedly *upgraded sound* vs. the 006ts with my 507s?
 *Price range* I have seen in my research says $300-$700 (the reviews on this site and info on Wikiphonia). $400 still considered a fair price for a unit with a few dings?
 I may have a chance to get a 007A soon; do people here still feel the SRM1/2 is a good match to *drive the 007A*?  
   
  I know it's tempting, but please don't just say, "Get the 007A (or a 009) and a BHSE." Not in my ballpark. Lots of words from me, I know, but I did due diligence at least via searches. BTW, _Spritzer_, do you know that Martin-Logan used to say to clean their "naked" panel models by vacuuming against the grill/stator? (I'm a Quad man, myself.)
   
  Thanks in advance for any suggestions.  
   
*PS: I forgot the music*. I listen mainly to "classical" music from all periods except modern; small-combo jazz, especially live; ECM jazz (the spacey or environmental stuff); female singers; Ray Charles; blues; classical guitar; folk music plus the usual audiophile discs. I am just starting to get involved in hi-def downloads and will try the Chesky binaurals next.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Hi, all: I have been using the SR-507 and 006ts for awhile. Sometimes it has been heavenly, at other times a bit lean or bright,  or maybe it's that I feel like I have to turn the volume up too high trying to get dynamics and a sense of fullness. So... There is a SRM-1/Mk2 for sale on the sale forum. Not the prettiest but not the rattiest I've ever seen. Seller asking $400.
> 
> *Basically have three questions for the veterans*:
> 
> ...


 
   
  yes..the 507 is a little lean,bright & bland, you won't see a huge difference by changing amp
  Try lambda nova signature, it is fuller, sweeter,  very musical & natural, they sound LOVELY.
  (my LNS has the 507 leather pad on it)
  I've put the 507 back to the box..the 507s are good for monitoring,because their clean sound


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> yes..the 507 is a little lean,bright & bland, you won't see a huge difference by changing amp
> Try lambda nova signature, it is fuller, sweeter,  very musical & natural, they sound LOVELY.
> (my LNS has the 507 leather pad on it)
> I've put the 507 back to the box..the 507s are good for monitoring,because their clean sound


 
   
  For "fuller, sweeter, very musical" the lambda normals are much better


----------



## ecohifi

So to get a very detailed natural sound it's either the old lambdas or the Lambda novas, I supposed the 009 will exceed all expectations? And will the SRM-1 MK 2 drive the 009?


----------



## DefQon

$400 for an SRM-1 MK2 is asking a little too much. They usually come with the older vintage Lambda models between $250-350. But yet again this is price basing off fleabay.


----------



## autoteleology

Well, I'm very, very close to owning my own Stax, but I've got a problem. I spent so much on the gear that I _might_ not have enough bank to get my stuff from customs!


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> For "fuller, sweeter, very musical" the lambda normals are much better


 
  +1 here.  I love my normals...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Well, I'm very, very close to owning my own Stax, but I've got a problem. I spent so much on the gear that I _might_ not have enough bank to get my stuff from customs!


 
  Make sure you have an integrated amp you can connect the adapter terminals up to. (referring to the 2170 in the F/S section).


----------



## autoteleology

> Make sure you have an integrated amp you can connect the adapter terminals up to. (referring to the 2170 in the F/S section).


 
   
  Say what? I need something else besides the earspeakers, the energizer, and a DAC?


----------



## Maxvla

You need a power amplifier to output a signal which the energizer converts to the power needed to drive the earspeakers.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Although I must say that my ODAC does just fine.


 
   
  If you add a good power supply to it (eg: Vaunix hub or similar) it gets even better.
   
  Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Hi, all:
> have been using the SR-507 and 006ts for awhile. Sometimes it has been heavenly, at other times a bit lean or bright.  Or maybe it's that I feel like I have to turn the volume up too high trying to get dynamics and a sense of fullness. So... There is a *SRM-1/Mk2* for sale on the sale forum. Not the prettiest but not the rattiest I've ever seen. Seller asking $400. *I have three questions on which I would appreciate your feedback*:
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Stax earspeakers are not Martin Logan panels. If you vacuumed a pair, you will destroy the membranes and the headphones. 
   
  IMO if you need better dynamics, you might be better suited to a pair of orthos and suitable amplification (eg: Audeze or Hifiman) than 'stats. However, for best results with those, you still need to make a serious amp investment.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> You need a power amplifier to output a signal which the energizer converts to the power needed to drive the earspeakers.


 
  Exactly. You can't just feed Stax stats off DAC's and regular headphone amplifiers by line in and regular RCA jacks. 
   
  DAC > Power/integrated speaker amplifier (speaker terminals) > SRM-252S => SR-207 earspeakers.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





headzone said:


> I asked this question before, but I didn't get an answer.
> 
> Anyways, is it safe to use my Stax when the foam has rottened off? I mean is it possible for dust/hair go into the drivers and damage them?


 
  There's a DUST BARRIER of plastic film inside all Stax earcups, the drivers are in effect sealed inside airtight PLASTIC BAGS,  It's not possible for dust to get into the drivers as long as the fairly sturdy internal dust covers are intact.  If dust was able to get into the driver at all, they would soon fail.  The electrostatic charge would ATTRACT dust and probably without the dust seals a pair of electrostatic headphones wouldn't last even a few days before problems or complete failure.


----------



## loligagger

Unless I'm mistaken the 252S is an amp, not an energizer.


----------



## bearFNF

You are correct:
   
  Stax Website quote "The SRM-252S is an exclusive driver unit (amplifier) for driving STAX ear speakers with PRO-bias 5 pins. Its line input can directly connect to the audio output terminal of CD player, portable audio player and PC. The SRM-252S has a simple design that excels in sound quality employing the carefully selected newest high-voltage transistors and low-noise FETs. The output stage featuring the emitter-follower configuration reinforces the driving performance and also realized the smooth sound quality. Moreover, the class-A amplification throughout the stages with no coupling capacitors reproduces exhaustively the finest nuance of music. Although the SRM-252S includes a class-A DC amplifier in a compact CD jacket size case, the internal heat is effectively dissipated through the chassis of aluminum extrusion material to improve the reliability over a long period of time. Also, the parallel output terminal was added to distribute the source signal so that a loud speaker may also be simultaneously used when source equipment has only a pair of output terminals."
   
*SRM-252S SPECIFICATIONS:*

 Type  :All-stage semiconductors, Low-noise dual FET input Class A operation, Pure balance DC amplifier configuration Earspeaker driver unit
 Frequency Response C to 35,000Hz with SR-207 (with SR-207) High Harmonic Distortion :Max 0.01% (1kHz at 100V r.m.s. ) Gain :58dB (x800) Input Terminal  :1 RCA with 1 RCA parallel out
 Rated Input Level :125mV / 100V Outputs Max. Input Level :30V (at minimum volume level) Input Impedance :50K[size=x-small]Ω[/size](RCA) Max. Output Voltage :280V r.m.s. (1kHz) Standard Bias Voltage RO 580V x 1 Power Voltage Frequency :117V (50Hz / 60Hz) Power Consumption :4W DC12V Temperature & Humidity :0 to 35ºC / 90% max. without condensation Dimensions :5.2 (W) x 1.5 (H) x 5.2 (D) in Weight :1.2lbs Color :Silver


----------



## Maxvla

loligagger said:


> Unless I'm mistaken the 252S is an amp, not an energizer.



Then he has what he needs and can obviously skip the power amp. What I get for skimming and not paying proper attention...


----------



## DefQon

Completely missed out on the fact that the 252S is an amp.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





currawong said:


> If you add a good power supply to it (eg: Vaunix hub or similar) it gets even better.
> 
> 
> Stax earspeakers are not Martin Logan panels. If you vacuumed a pair, you will destroy the membranes and the headphones.
> ...


 
  Hey, c'mon, guys, what about the OP (me)? First, Pat, thanks for replying, but I was not begging the question of vacuuming the phones or contradicting Spritzer. I always thought M-L was nuts to recommend that and never thought to do it to my Stax. That was someone else's issue/post. And I am not complaining about the inherent sound of electrostatic (earspeakers or speakers); I have used and preferred them all my life (Acoustat, M-L, Quad). I have read in this thread people usually not having much good to say about my amp (006ts), and I was asking for input re would I get any benefit sonically by switching to the SRM-1/2. It puts 70 more volts on the electrodes. *My question*: Would it be an improvement with my 507s, a sideways move, or a backwards move. And also, if I get the chance to move up to Omega 2 Mk. 1, would it do a decent job. Thanks.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Completely missed out on the fact that the 252S is an amp.


 
   

   
   
  ... it's also a decent little amp
   
  Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Hey, c'mon, guys, what about the OP (me)?


 
   
  You're definitely not OP


----------



## En_R

Searched all of head-fi for this but there hasen't been a mention of it yet, so it's time to call upon the stax mafia for help. 

Has anyone had any experience with these amps? I have only seen some forums in China talk about it, and apparently its highly regarded. (Also Chinese made? not sure.)

叶立 8PS




This one is definitely for use with Stax, as it is always compared with the 727/007ta

And the 8PR (from the jack I would assume these are for normal headphone use?)


----------



## shipsupt

Some talk back in '09...
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/428855/what-should-i-get-from-china#post_5760886


----------



## K_19

Any good recommendations for a DAC in the $1000~2000 range for the good old 007 MK1/717 combo anyone?
   
  I currently have the older Stello DA100 via Hiface and I'm happy with it balance wise paired with the 007/717, but after trying out the Anedio D1 I could see how much detail it was lacking compared to the more recent DACs. Unfortunately, I found that the excellent but overall laid-back D1 made the combo a little _too _laid back for my liking, so it's back to the drawing board.  I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...
   
  Any recommendation would be welcome, new or used as long as it's in that price range.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Any good recommendations for a DAC in the $1000~2000 range for the good old 007 MK1/717 combo anyone?
> 
> I currently have the older Stello DA100 via Hiface and I'm happy with it balance wise paired with the 007/717, but after trying out the Anedio D1 I could see how much detail it was lacking compared to the more recent DACs. Unfortunately, I found that the excellent but overall laid-back D1 made the combo a little _too _laid back for my liking, so it's back to the drawing board.  I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...
> 
> Any recommendation would be welcome, new or used as long as it's in that price range.


 

 Check out the Mytek 192. It's working nicely with my 727ii + SR-009s. The synergy is definitely there and a really neutral sound. However, it does add a little bit of warmth so you may like it.


----------



## Nemeske88

1. I'm failed to get some answer, but probably there is no chance to acquire some STAX replace cables with 6 pins?
  2. Somebody here spoke about the damping material or foam is available for the Lambdas?


----------



## shipsupt

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> 2. Somebody here spoke about the damping material or foam is available for the Lambdas?


 
   
  As was suggested the back wave foam for Lambdas is indeed available from STAX.  I just ordered some for my LNS.  
   
  I am sure that you could also cut some open cell foam to size as a much cheap solution, as was also suggested.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Any good recommendations for a DAC in the $1000~2000 range for the good old 007 MK1/717 combo anyone?
> 
> I currently have the older Stello DA100 via Hiface and I'm happy with it balance wise paired with the 007/717, but after trying out the Anedio D1 I could see how much detail it was lacking compared to the more recent DACs. Unfortunately, I found that the excellent but overall laid-back D1 made the combo a little _too _laid back for my liking, so it's back to the drawing board.  I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...
> 
> Any recommendation would be welcome, new or used as long as it's in that price range.


 
  Audio-Gd Reference 5.32    US $ 909.00


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...


 
   
  The DAC-2 is all these thing, though a little dark of neutral.  Same HiFace you have now even.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> 1. I'm failed to get some answer, but probably there is no chance to acquire some STAX replace cables with 6 pins?
> 2. Somebody here spoke about the damping material or foam is available for the Lambdas?


 
   
  The 6 pin cables are long sold out at Stax but a distributor somewhere in the world might have a set.  Not likely though.


----------



## Nemeske88

@spritzer Thanks


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Any good recommendations for a DAC in the $1000~2000 range for the good old 007 MK1/717 combo anyone?
> 
> I currently have the older Stello DA100 via Hiface and I'm happy with it balance wise paired with the 007/717, but after trying out the Anedio D1 I could see how much detail it was lacking compared to the more recent DACs. Unfortunately, I found that the excellent but overall laid-back D1 made the combo a little _too _laid back for my liking, so it's back to the drawing board.  I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...
> 
> Any recommendation would be welcome, new or used as long as it's in that price range.


 

 I find the Grace Design m903 to sound lovely with my 007mk1/717 combo. It has a little more and better (= more detail and smoother at the same time) highs than what I was used to with my previous sources. The extra highs are welcome on the 007/717 combo. The m903 also has a great volume control, allowing you to bypass the internal pot of the 717. I think much value for money can be had with the professionally oriented dacs. The Mytek dac mentioned above is one of these, though I have no experience with it.


----------



## pkshan

Has anyone heard the shure SRH1840?
  how's it compare to the lambda line?


----------



## verber

> shure SRH1840 -vs- lambda?
   
I listened to a pair of SRH1840 for a brief time in a dealer showroom.  I can't remember any details other than they were inferior to the other phones I listened to that day which included LCD2, HD800, and SRM-207 being driven by a SRM-252.
   
--Mark


----------



## pkshan

verber said:


> > shure SRH1840 -vs- lambda?
> 
> I listened to a pair of SRH1840 for a brief time in a dealer showroom.  I can't remember any details other than they were inferior to the other phones I listened to that day which included LCD2, HD800, and SRM-207 being driven by a SRM-252.
> 
> --Mark


 

  got it, thanks


----------



## singh

sr-404 , sr404LE , lambda signature , lambda pro.
   
  I remember reading here, one of the above has insane transient response and details .
   
  which one was it ?


----------



## autoteleology

What is the difference between the new and old Lambda lines, such as the SR-202 vs the SR-207?


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





singh said:


> sr-404 , sr404LE , lambda signature , lambda pro.
> 
> I remember reading here, one of the above has insane transient response and details .
> 
> which one was it ?


 
  Really all of them, but the Lambda Signature in particular.


----------



## singh

Thanks.
   
  thought so, got confused cause 404  also had "signature" added to it ( i was like "which signature" ?) . then 404LE was an update over 404 , thats why i got 404LE. 
   
  is there a reason i should get the lambda signature ( when i have 404LE ) . Not a collector but, i would like to hear the difference( if big )
   
  i also have LNS and ESP950


----------



## sphinxvc

^ how's the LNS compared to the 950?


----------



## livewire

Singh hopefully will answer this.
  I have the 950. It is good, but I would bet that the STAX LNS will beat it. (haven't heard a LNS tho...)
  My lowly Stax 202 slays it.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





singh said:


> Thanks.
> 
> thought so, got confused cause 404  also had "signature" added to it ( i was like "which signature" ?) . then 404LE was an update over 404 , thats why i got 404LE.
> 
> ...


 
   
  LS vs LNS ,their timbre are almost (75%) identical,
  the LS reveals the super micro details, while the LNS is more forgiving,relaxing,
   
  If you have a very good source & amp, the LS is a better phone,clear,real & convincing sound.
   
  On many systems, LNS is more listenable,the LS  "etch" can give you headaches,


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

This is all true.
   
  Nova series is more balanced, lambda pro and lambda signature needs great dac and amp to make the "etch" being tolerate.


----------



## milosz

I LIKE the Lambda Signature etch.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Just not all the time.


----------



## DefQon

What's this 'etch' on said Lambda model's?


----------



## singh

am using the LNS with SRM T1W. ( and 950 with its stock amp)
  you remember sound of 950 ?
  LNS is a little warmer than 950, smoother treble.  soundstage is open but i dont find the separation good enough in both ( or my other headphones for that matter)
  950 are more balanced overall, with better bass extension, and are faster than LNS.
   
  build wise LNS are getting old , make noise whenever one handles them.
   
  LNS's headpad is deteriorating, i need to get better pads.
  
  EDIT : yup i was hoping to LNS to have hot treble but thats not the case. no "itch" so to speak.


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





singh said:


> am using the LNS with SRM T1W. ( and 950 with its stock amp)
> you remember sound of 950 ?
> LNS is a little warmer than 950, smoother treble.  soundstage is open but i dont find the separation good enough in both ( or my other headphones for that matter)
> 950 are more balanced overall, with better bass extension, and are faster than LNS.
> ...


 
   
  Yeah I remember.  Eek, better bass extension than 950?  =/  I'm good.
  -
  Thx for opining.


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





defqon said:


> What's this 'etch' on said Lambda model's?


 
  A mild upper-mid (4-6khz iirc) spike. It's not a family trait tho, Just some 'chosen' few. the most frequent said offender was the SR-404.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

*SR-007 with SRM-006ts: A way to get started or a waste of time*
   
  I currently use the 006ts with the SR-507. I am thinking seriously about getting an Omega II Mk. I for all its known virtues. I do understand the limitations of the SRM-006ts and so have a question. *My Question*: As I cannot right now get into high-end amps, could I use the Omega II with the 006ts and enjoy many of its benefits, or do people think it would be a pointless pairing?
   
  Thanks to all.


----------



## K_19

I can see the combo being overly laid back and loose there.  I would hope that you have brighter-than-neutral source behind that combo, or else I can see it being way too laid back.  If you are on a tight budget I'd at least look for a used SRM-1 MKII as a temporary measure or something... it'll still be underpowered but it has more power than the 006 as far as I know, and at least the SRM-1 would be a decent match signature wise (very clinical sounding from my own experience, which matches well with the tend-to-be-warm 007 MK1's).


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I can see the combo being overly laid back and loose there.  I would hope that you have brighter-than-neutral source behind that combo, or else I can see it being way too laid back.  If you are on a tight budget I'd at least look for a used SRM-1 MKII as a temporary measure or something... it'll still be underpowered but it has more power than the 006 as far as I know, and at least the SRM-1 would be a decent match signature wise (very clinical sounding from my own experience, which matches well with the tend-to-be-warm 007 MK1's).


 
  Thank you, K19, helpful info.


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *SR-007 with SRM-006ts: A way to get started or a waste of time*
> 
> I currently use the 006ts with the SR-507. I am thinking seriously about getting an Omega II Mk. I for all its known virtues. I do understand the limitations of the SRM-006ts and so have a question. *My Question*: As I cannot right now get into high-end amps, could I use the Omega II with the 006ts and enjoy many of its benefits, or do people think it would be a pointless pairing?
> 
> Thanks to all.


 
   
  You could always consider getting a 323S to replace the 006ts. I've used the 323S with the 007 mk1 and it sounds very good indeed. not sloppy. (it replaced a woo GES at the time and the difference was easy to notice. stronger bass impact, leaner mid bass vs the GES)
   
  Although I am currently using a 007ta amp, the time in between my use of the old 323s and the 007t is very large so I can't compare them accurately. I would say that the 007ta with the mk1 O2 is not sloppy either but it is many times more expensive than the 323s (and 006t)


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> You could always consider getting a 323S to replace the 006ts. I've used the 323S with the 007 mk1 and it sounds very good indeed. not sloppy. (it replaced a woo GES at the time and the difference was easy to notice. stronger bass impact, leaner mid bass vs the GES)
> 
> Although I am currently using a 007ta amp, the time in between my use of the old 323s and the 007t is very large so I can't compare them accurately. I would say that the 007ta with the mk1 O2 is not sloppy either but it is many times more expensive than the 323s (and 006t)


 
  Thank you, LCfiner. That, too, is helpful. Yes, I have thought that might be the only realistic "holding-pattern" way to go, if I did not want to spend big bucks all at once. I guess I was kind of hoping the 006ts was at least "not horrible" on the 007, so I could simultaneously get excited about acquiring an Omega 2 while being lazy about doing anything else for awhile.  But there is no sense pretending. I never thought I would be spending these kind of bucks (let alone a 009!) on used headphones, but if I'm going to do it there is no sense creating a self-defeating outcome up front.


----------



## K_19

From my own experience, sound wise I am not sure the 323S is worth its cost over the SRM-1 as a temporary measure for the 007's. 323S do sound better IMO (slightly better control over the bass region) but at their retail cost of ~$1000 or used at $700-800 that's quite a bit more than a used SRM-1 which sounds nearly as good as the 323S as long as they're in great condition. But of course, there's the fact that SRM-1's are a hit and miss condition wise (they're over 20 years old at least after all) and that you get a full manufacturer's warranty if you get the 323S new is something to consider as well if you do plan to keep the amp for a long time.
   
  But IMO, going to a higher tier amp is almost inevitable for a 007 owner, trust me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Either SRM-1 or the 323S will merely be a stepping stone for something better for sure in the long run... so I'd get the cheaper SRM-1 used in using it for the short term if you absolutely need something as an adequate placeholder or just save for something like a used 717 or a KGSS instead from the beginning.
   
  And since you already have the 006, you could always try it with that too. For sure they're not optimal, but everyone's ears are different... who's to say that you won't enjoy the sound enough? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And if you decide that the 007 is not right for you with what you can afford... they're usually an easy sell with minimal loss here.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> A mild upper-mid (4-6khz iirc) spike. It's not a family trait tho, Just some 'chosen' few. the most frequent said offender was the SR-404.


 
  The Lambda Pro Signature had the thinnest and therefore lightest diaphragm ever used by Stax in an electrostatic headphone, 1.0 micron. They also are the only Stax 'phone to use ZERO damping stuff behind the diaphragm. As a result they are a little "hot" at some frequencies.  Not as much of  a peak as the Sennheiser HD800, but definitely have a little extra energy in the upper "presence" region and also a touch of extra detail-enhancing treble. Gives them a sound where the details, the transients, sound more prominent than they really are-  as though theses sonic features were details of an engraving where the background had been etched out a little by some means, to make these fine details stand out a little from the background.
   
  Not always unpleasant depending on the music and your mood, but decidedly not _neutral._
   
  When I listen to my Lambda Pro Signatures, I often dial in a little DSP EQ cut, which tames this effect a little making it less objectionable- but of course a static EQ doesn't change the transient or other time-domain behavior -  the 'phones likely ring a little at these frequencies, and so on, so even though EQ helps tame the most sizzling part of this "Stax etch" it doesn't eliminate the artifact completely.
   
  In some ways these headphones are good for checking recordings, listening for details in field recordings and so on, because they reveal - in fact they ENHANCE- details that might be blended in or buried in the mix when heard on more neutral headphones.
   
  The 'etch'  gives them a 'crisp' and 'detailed' sound, which sounds a bit unnatural on  acoustic instruments and ensembles, but which can be a fun sound on other material.
   
  See  http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stax_SR-%CE%9B_Signature


----------



## schorsch

Well I love them 
   
  being not perfectly neutral but mpre onvolving than the Lambda Pro (which are really instruments for professionals - studios...)
   
  I like them with the ED-1 Equalizer (depends on the way music was recorded) most of the time.
   
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Solude

It's been said a hundred, Stax 323S and Woo GES are baselines for the rest.  Unless you are ready to wait for a used amp to pop, diy skills and the beard to work on high voltage or money in hand for the BHSE those two amps are the choices.


----------



## pkshan

I confirmed that my Lambda Signature takes about 3 hours to fully charge up if I don't use it often.
  I have experienced this few times, the "etch"(my ear pain) seems suddenly gone after 3 hours.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Maybe they're just slowly eating away at that part of your hearing. 
   
  Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I confirmed that my Lambda Signature takes about 3 hours to fully charge up if I don't use it often.
> I have experienced this few times, the "etch"(my ear pain) seems suddenly gone after 3 hours.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





solude said:


> It's been said a hundred, Stax 323S and Woo GES are baselines for the rest.  Unless you are ready to wait for a used amp to pop, diy skills and the beard to work on high voltage or money in hand for the BHSE those two amps are the choices.


 
  Thank you, Solude. Yes, and I have read exhaustively through at least a dozen different search inventories that I created from this thread. I think the obsession has taken me from behind and I am going around in circles. Yes, those are the two at this level. Thanks again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 _(wannabe)_


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I confirmed that my Lambda Signature* takes about 3 hours to fully charge up if I don't use it often.*
> I have experienced this few times, the "etch"(my ear pain) seems suddenly gone after 3 hours.


 
  Say what?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

*Member Inquiry/Scam Avoidance*
   
*Community: *I have an offer out on a Omega 2/Mk1 on Audiogon. It is described as mint and one-owner. Of course this is a siren song to my ears, but the seller has no feedback at all on Audiogon. I have also tried to search for him on Head-Fi several different ways, but his username (from Audiogon) does not appear. I PM'd Currawong about this, and he said to post it here and ask for feedback. The seller's handle is *audioonetoo *in Peoria, Ill. I must emphasize that for all I know he is perfectly honorable, and I have no wish to disparage anyone. *If anyone has had or has heard of any improper or fraudulent activity by this username, please post here ASAP.*
   
  Thank you,
  Jeffrey


----------



## Maxvla

Does he list the serial number?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Does he list the serial number?


 
*SZ1-1050*
   
*PS: *Also selling a BHSE


----------



## Maxvla

Well it's not the one I had, which was not mint, but basically was after I was done with it.


----------



## gilency

Good price. Lack of feedback is worrisome.
  Don't ever pay with PP gift, personal check or money order, all of which he accepts.
  No feedback here, Audiogon or ebay. Worrisome indeed.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Good price. Lack of feedback is worrisome.
> Don't ever pay with PP gift, personal check or money order, all of which he accepts.
> No feedback here, Audiogon or ebay. Worrisome indeed.


 
  Thank you. Maybe I should back away. Thing is , he sounded kind of like an older man, like me, in our PMs. I know I would also indicate "accept all these types of payment" out of habit, because that's the way we did it before there even was a PayPal. But the lack of feedback_ anywhere_ might be a dark sign. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Well it's not the one I had, which was not mint, but basically was after I was done with it.


 
  Wish I had yours, then. Thanks for both your replies.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *SZ1-1050*
> 
> *PS: *Also selling a BHSE


 
  Interesting that the photos of the BHSE show it has a serial number 020 and has a 230v power supply. The voltage doesn't make sense for someone in the US, but he does include a voltage converter in the pack., so maybe he got it second hand and the only model available at the time was a UK version.
   
  Regarding your earlier question, I don't think the SRM-006t/SR-007 will sound "horrible". As you already have the 006t, it doesn't cost anything to try for yourself - even if you don't like it, at least you'll know more clearly what you're looking for as the next upgrade step. A lot depends on the type of music you prefer  and you don't mind a more laid back presentation. Classical, jazz, singer songwriter types will be more suitable than fast rock. And low/moderate volumes more suitable than loud. This is based on my experience when going from 006t+SR-404 signature to a 007t+SR-007 Mk1. There was a short period in the switch over when I tried all 4 combinations.


----------



## Asr

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *Member Inquiry/Scam Avoidance*
> 
> *Community: *I have an offer out on a Omega 2/Mk1 on Audiogon. It is described as mint and one-owner. Of course this is a siren song to my ears, but the seller has no feedback at all on Audiogon. I have also tried to search for him on Head-Fi several different ways, but his username (from Audiogon) does not appear. I PM'd Currawong about this, and he said to post it here and ask for feedback. The seller's handle is *audioonetoo *in Peoria, Ill. I must emphasize that for all I know he is perfectly honorable, and I have no wish to disparage anyone. *If anyone has had or has heard of any improper or fraudulent activity by this username, please post here ASAP.*
> 
> ...


 
   
  In regards to the BHSE listing on Audiogon: it looks very suspicious to me. There's quite a bit of copy in that ad that's *not *on HeadAmp.com and sounds like info that might be either made up or inaccurate (for example: the Alps RK50 is $1K, not $1495). And if I were you, I'd ask why he's using a 230V version in the USA. You could also ask Justin @ HeadAmp who bought serial #20, so you can determine if the seller is the original owner or not.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





theattorney said:


> Interesting that the photos of the BHSE show it has a serial number 020 and has a 230v power supply. The voltage doesn't make sense for someone in the US, but he does include a voltage converter in the pack., so maybe he got it second hand and the only model available at the time was a UK version.
> 
> Regarding your earlier question, I don't think the SRM-006t/SR-007 will sound "horrible". As you already have the 006t, it doesn't cost anything to try for yourself - even if you don't like it, at least you'll know more clearly what you're looking for as the next upgrade step. A lot depends on the type of music you prefer  and you don't mind a more laid back presentation. Classical, jazz, singer songwriter types will be more suitable than fast rock. And low/moderate volumes more suitable than loud. This is based on my experience when going from 006t+SR-404 signature to a 007t+SR-007 Mk1. There was a short period in the switch over when I tried all 4 combinations.


 
   
  Thank you, Attorney, that makes good sense. And I wonder if you are are clairvoyant re my listening: my favorite music is "classical" of all all periods, jazz, folk, classical guitar and female vocal (though I grow weary of that last category). Also, I suffered what was, for a lifelong music lover, a most unfortunate injury as a young man: a through-and-back puncturing of my left eardrum. Any kind of sustained loud music causes pain in that ear, esp. upper midrange to mid-treble. I rarely listen louder than average level = 80dB and peaks in high 80s.
   
  Quote: 





asr said:


> In regards to the BHSE listing on Audiogon: it looks very suspicious to me. There's quite a bit of copy in that ad that's *not *on HeadAmp.com and sounds like info that might be either made up or inaccurate (for example: the Alps RK50 is $1K, not $1495). And if I were you, I'd ask why he's using a 230V version in the USA. You could also ask Justin @ HeadAmp who bought serial #20, so you can determine if the seller is the original owner or not.


 
   
  ASR, thank you for the careful observations; you have a good eye, as you saw details I missed. As it happens, I will be talking to Justin tomorrow by prior arrangement on another matter, so it will be convenient to discuss this with him.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

_You all have been great so far. I welcome any additional ideas, cautions or advice, but this has already been most helpful._
_ _





 (wannabe!)


----------



## DefQon

If you're afraid to deal with him over the internet, you can also deal in person can't you?


----------



## autoteleology

> Regarding your earlier question, I don't think the SRM-006t/SR-007 will sound "horrible".


 
   
  From my point of view, where tomorrow my very first Stax (SR-303 + SRM-Xh) comes in the mail, I find this statement to be pretty hilarious. I guess when one gets to the level of thousands of dollars of equipment, the scale of "horrible" takes a drastic change.


----------



## forbigger

@jeffreyfranz -  best is to PM Justin asking for the history behind this amp. Then you could confirm with the seller. See if his statement in line with information you have.


----------



## Radio_head

Jeffrey, I don't live that far out from him.  If you'd like I could message him and see if he would do an in-person meet for pickup, I have to be in Chicago next week either way.  Bank transfer doesn't offer protection for the buyer, so you really have to know what you're dealing with.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Jeffrey, I don't live that far out from him.  If you'd like I could message him and see if he would do an in-person meet for pickup, I have to be in Chicago next week either way.  Bank transfer doesn't offer protection for the buyer, so you really have to know what you're dealing with.


 
   
*Radiohead:* That is the most generous offer. I  love the way this community pulls together. Yes, I would welcome that arrangement. I have not heard back from him today, but as soon as I do I will get back to you.
   
AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL FOR THE CONTINUING INPUT. GREAT SUPPORT.​


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> @jeffreyfranz -  best is to PM Justin asking for the history behind this amp. Then you could confirm with the seller. See if his statement in line with information you have.


 
  We live a couple time zones apart. If you mean by telephone, yes, I am going to request that. Thanks.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Any good recommendations for a DAC in the $1000~2000 range for the good old 007 MK1/717 combo anyone?
> 
> I currently have the older Stello DA100 via Hiface and I'm happy with it balance wise paired with the 007/717, but after trying out the Anedio D1 I could see how much detail it was lacking compared to the more recent DACs. Unfortunately, I found that the excellent but overall laid-back D1 made the combo a little _too _laid back for my liking, so it's back to the drawing board.  I wonder if the Wyred 4 Sound DAC1/2 would be any different as it's the same Sabre DAC chip but obviously different overall design... has anyone tried out that particular combo?  I'd like more detail without losing the attack and the liveliness of the Stello...
> 
> Any recommendation would be welcome, new or used as long as it's in that price range.


 
   
  Quote: 





solude said:


> The DAC-2 is all these thing, though a little dark of neutral.  Same HiFace you have now even.


 
   
  So... upon some searching I managed to find a used Wyred 4 Sound DAC-1 locally (more or less similar to DAC-2 from what I've read) to try with my 007/717 and as Solude said, it definitely did improve the rig by quite a bit! It kept the same degree of aggressiveness with much more refinement, air and detail over the Stello, with more soundstage to boot. Perhaps a tad less weighty in the bass area compared to the Stello but that may be because it was extremely tight and well controlled.
   
  .....but.... due to unforeseen circumstances, I need to part with the DAC-1 for now due to needing some funds 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.  However, just wanted to write here that the DAC-1 was definitely a great match with the 007/717 combo... I'll likely get the DAC-2 few months down the road when I can afford them again.


----------



## livewire

@K_19 - Have you tried your ODAC with your STAX rig. If so, impressions?
   
  That W4S looks interesting, if I had the dosh I'd try it.


----------



## K_19

Can't say I have yet as the ODAC is always tied up to the Objective 2 as my secondary rig for the K550... I'll give it a shot one of these days though.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> *Radiohead:* That is the most generous offer. I  love the way this community pulls together. Yes, I would welcome that arrangement. I have not heard back from him today, but as soon as I do I will get back to you.
> 
> AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL FOR THE CONTINUING INPUT. GREAT SUPPORT.​


 
  Actually, that amp was listed on Head-Fi http://www.head-fi.org/t/608173/sold-blue-hawaii-special-edition-bhse. Maybe contract the seller to get additional information. Some of the pics on gon look very familiar too.


----------



## bearFNF

I am starting a search for a new inexpensive amp to drive my SR Lambda Normal Bias + SRD7/SB.  I want it to be somewhat portable.  Under $400.  What do you guys think of this one?  Or do you have any suggestions?
 Topping TP32 Class T Digital Amp with USB and Remote 15WPC  *Specifications: *• Power output: 15W x 2 (4 ohms, 10% THD), 9W x 2 (4 ohms, 0.03% THD), 10W x 2 (8 ohms, 10% THD), 6W x 2 (8 ohms, 0.1% THD) • Headphone power output: 60mW x 2 (16 ohms, 1% THD), 120mW x 2 (1% THD), 100mW x 2 (32 ohms, 0.01% THD) • DAC THD+N: 0.008% @ 1 kHz • Signal-to-noise ratio: 98 dB • Dynamic range: 98 dB • Dimensions: 4.17" W x 1.65" H x 7.1" D.


----------



## autoteleology

I just got my first Stax in the mail today and it is blowing my mind. I have nothing else to say.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I just got my first Stax in the mail today and it is blowing my mind. I have nothing else to say.


 
   
  Congratulations. When mine first came, one year ago, I remember thinking how this was the first headphone I'd ever heard that sounded, not only like speakers, but like my speakers (Quad ESL-989). It was revelatory. I am happy for you.


----------



## Maxvla

golfnutz said:


> Actually, that amp was listed on Head-Fi http://www.head-fi.org/t/608173/sold-blue-hawaii-special-edition-bhse. Maybe contract the seller to get additional information. Some of the pics on gon look very familiar too.



Nice digging. Clearly not a single owner then, if the A-goner even has the unit in question.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> I am starting a search for a new inexpensive amp to drive my SR Lambda Normal Bias + SRD7/SB.  I want it to be somewhat portable.  Under $400.  What do you guys think of this one?  Or do you have any suggestions?
> Topping TP32 Class T Digital Amp with USB and Remote 15WPC


 
   
  Can't say I've tried that Topping with the normal bias Lamda's but have tried it with my Lambda Pro's, given said the sound is not good. Right now I'm using a cheap Chinese MINI P14 EL84 tube amp (rebuilt and modded) for my Lamda Pro's and it is very good sounding, very dynamic and fluid with great depth with the lows and soundstaging better sounding compared to when I had them driving off a SRM-T1. Although not very portable and EL84's (7189, 6BQ5) tubes tend to run very hot (x4 + 2 6N1's).


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





fishfood said:


> I bet they sound incredible. I wanted to get a DA80 for my Quads. Never could find one close by that was in good enough shape. It's a great amplifier!


 
  I had a pair of DA-100 driving my Martin Logan CLS IIz, excellent sound. They put out the same amount of heat as a good domestic heater, it got quite warm in my room in the summer.
   
  Now I have a pair of big Maggies driven by EAR 549 tube monos, the CLS just couldn't play loud enough for my taste ...


----------



## schorsch

What happened to the DA-100?
   
  I'm looking for a nice pair)
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





> Originally Posted b. *DefQon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> Can't say I've tried that Topping with the normal bias Lamda's but have tried it with my Lambda Pro's, given said the sound is not good. Right now I'm using a cheap Chinese MINI P14 EL84 tube amp (rebuilt and modded) for my Lamda Pro's and it is very good sounding, very dynamic and fluid with great depth with the lows and soundstaging better sounding compared to when I had them driving off a SRM-T1. Although not very portable and EL84's (7189, 6BQ5) tubes tend to run very hot (x4 + 2 6N1's).


 
  Thanks for the feedback.  I  think I'll keep looking around.


----------



## autoteleology

How much does a Stax Sigma Pro usually go for?


----------



## justin w.

Stax SRM-007tII modded to use 6S4A tubes


----------



## rubenpp

^
  Nice ! Very interested on hearing the modiified 007t series . Hope you can bring one to the CHANG-fest.


----------



## justin w.

I think this is the first and only time I'm doing that unless I come up with a circuit board adapter.  it takes a lot longer than it looks!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> How much does a Stax Sigma Pro usually go for?


 
  $750-1500. Depending on condition.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Is Stax known to be amazing with electronic?


 
  They are state-of-the-art. I had the CA-X preamp and a set of DA-100 class A power monos. The monos get very hot, not the case but the air that comes out of the top, they use a heat pipe to get rid of the heat.
   
  The CA-X has a shunt power supply that would be sufficient for a power amp with 75 w/ch I guess, the preamp sits piggy back on top and is totally dual mono. Its phono section also accepts input from the special Stax cartridges. The volume knob is mechanically connected to the separate volume controls of the channels, to adjust the balance one holds the big knob and adjusts one of the smaller ones. The thing uses very expensive military grade air capacitors. These were also the achilles heel in my CA-X.
   
  I met a German Stax fan with the big Stax electrostatic speakers who liked the set and swapped it against his very rare EAR 549 tube monos (200 w/ch) and a rare German tube preamp. The guy found new air capacitors in the US, very expensive. 
   
  The Stax set was fantastic but had "only" 100 w/ch class A. The build quality is excellent, the copper on the PCBs is extra thick and only the best quality parts are used. They look very simple but are wolves in sheep's clothes ...
   
  But I needed more power for my big Maggies 
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Tried the 507 leather pad on lambda nova signature,
> the timbre & balance are just perfect to me,
> very close to the original sound, i can forget i'm listening to a headphone,just music
> 
> The LNS is my favorite lambda now


 
  Thanks. So now I know which will be the new pads on my own LNS. Did you get yours from Audiocubes? Or elsewhere? What was the price? I saw an eBay seller lately who asked double the price of AC.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Thanks. So now I know which will be the new pads on my own LNS. Did you get yours from Audiocubes? Or elsewhere? What was the price? I saw an eBay seller lately who asked double the price of AC.
> 
> Best regards, Jörg.


 
  I bought them on AC and the service was slow but the pads did eventually arrive. They kept me informed by email. I am using them on my 407's and there was a marginal but noticeable improvement. My only complaint about the pads is that they are not very  deep so they press against the outside of my ears. The original pads were a tiny bit deeper but the vinyl was not as comfortable as the leather. Comfort issue aside, they are, sound wise, the best you can do.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> I think this is the first and only time I'm doing that unless I come up with a circuit board adapter.  it takes a lot longer than it looks!


 
   
  Hehe, I could have told you that.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I would be interesting to do this same mod with ECC99's which only calls for small changes to the operating points.  Current production as well which is always better.


----------



## zachchen1996

Living in the US, is price japan the cheapest website to buy the stax sr009s from? Seems like price japan has the 009s for under 4000$!


----------



## MorbidToaster

That's where most people get there. I paid full through Jack Wu for mine, but I regret that now since I sold 'em already. lol
   
  Quote: 





zachchen1996 said:


> Living in the US, is price japan the cheapest website to buy the stax sr009s from? Seems like price japan has the 009s for under 4000$!


----------



## zachchen1996

morbidtoaster said:


> That's where most people get there. I paid full through Jack Wu for mine, but I regret that now since I sold 'em already. lol




Wow, I think I might just suck it up and save up for a 009 now instead of getting the lcd3s. under 4000 is somehow a magical pricepoint, just sounds alot better than 5000.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Just do it. It's not even a contest between the 2.
   
  Quote: 





zachchen1996 said:


> Wow, I think I might just suck it up and save up for a 009 now instead of getting the lcd3s. under 4000 is somehow a magical pricepoint, just sounds alot better than 5000.


----------



## zachchen1996

morbidtoaster said:


> Just do it. It's not even a contest between the 2.




Yeah I guess, and cure upgraditis while I'm at it, why did you sell yours?


----------



## struggles

zachchen1996 said:


> Wow, I think I might just suck it up and save up for a 009 now instead of getting the lcd3s. under 4000 is somehow a magical pricepoint, just sounds alot better than 5000.




I was recently quoted 4-6 weeks wait time, full payment up front, and any warranty/repair will need to be shipped back to them.

In the end I placed an order with Justin@Headamp for a 009/727 package and am very happy with my decision.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Because the wife(ish) was sick of listening to the 'splash' from the 009s for hours on end and told me we needed some speakers. 
   
  There's really only room for one high end system in our house, so out went the 009 + LL and in came (well, coming. Still waiting on delivery) the speakers. 
   
  I have a feeling the speakers will bring more enjoyment anyway. Completely different sound, but I had forgotten what proper soundstage was since I'd been into headphone audio for so long.
   
  Quote: 





zachchen1996 said:


> Yeah I guess, and cure upgraditis while I'm at it, why did you sell yours?


----------



## zachchen1996

morbidtoaster said:


> There's really only room for one high end system in our house




Your'e going to have to pay ALOT to get equal sound quality of the stax's from speakers! You mean physical room, or budget restraints?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Both. We live in apartments with roomies. One room has to fit all of our gear right now. Budget restraints of course as well. My system is worth over half my annual pay. I don't have tons of money to throw around. It would've been a year before I could've gotten the speaker system I wanted. 
   
  As far as Stax vs speakers. They're very different (my speakers vs the 009 rig). You're right that I'd have to spend a ton to get something with all the same characteristics (and I'd actually say it's near impossible to get the same level of detail), but for the same money I invested in an 009 + amp (roughly 10k) the speakers outdo them in so many ways. 
   
  You have to understand that I wasn't trying to 'best' my 009 rig. I was going for a completely different flavor. It'd be like comparing the 009 to the W3000ANV. Sweet, and wonderful (albeit colored) vs razor sharp detail and speed. 
   
  Quote: 





zachchen1996 said:


> Your'e going to have to pay ALOT to get equal sound quality of the stax's from speakers! You mean physical room, or budget restraints?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> Stax SRM-007tII modded to use 6S4A tubes


 
  Do you do this mod for an SRM-007tii owner? If not, who does? Thank you.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Do you do this mod for an SRM-007tii owner? If not, who does? Thank you.


 
   
  i might be convinced to do it 1 more time


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





struggles said:


> I was recently quoted 4-6 weeks wait time, full payment up front, and any warranty/repair will need to be shipped back to them.
> 
> In the end I placed an order with Justin@Headamp for a 009/727 package and am very happy with my decision.


 

 Same here, the warranty issues and wait time put me off from buying the 009 at PriceJapan (I also got them from Justin, great guy), however back then it was 4300$~. The yen has certainly dropped at an incredible speed after the new ministers financial plans proceedings.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> i might be convinced to do it 1 more time


 
   
  Pushover....


----------



## autoteleology

Why is it that Lambdas (and usually Stax in general) seem to have a forum reputation for "no bass"? I listen primarily to EDM on my SR-303s and they can have massive kick when the song calls for it.


----------



## Headzone

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Why is it that Lambdas (and usually Stax in general) seem to have a forum reputation for "no bass"? I listen primarily to EDM on my SR-303s and they can have massive kick when the song calls for it.


 

 +1, was surprised when heard my SR-202 first time.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Why is it that Lambdas (and usually Stax in general) seem to have a forum reputation for "no bass"? I listen primarily to EDM on my SR-303s and they can have massive kick when the song calls for it.


 
   
  Those that say they don't have bass are either 1. bassheads, 2. bassheads, 3. never heard a Stax before.
   
  The only Stax headphones I've tried that have hardly any bass are the old SR-X's, SR-30 - 80 electret line and the SR-404's.


----------



## n3rdling

A number of factors have contributed to the "electrostats don't have bass" myth:
   
  1.  Impact vs SPL.  Saying they don't have bass is implying the frequency response of the bass is shelved down or rolled off.  Properly sealed electrostats are flat in the bass, but most electrostats do have less bass impact than your typical dynamic.  Some of this is due to the limited excursion of the diaphragm.  The distance between the diaphragm and stators has to be kept really small though so the electrostatic force can act upon them.  You could increase the spacer thickness, but you'd need to greatly increase the bias voltage.
   
  2.  Reputation of older Stax headphones.  The really old Stax headphones had smaller drivers and kinda crappy earpads that didn't seal well, resulting in bass roll off.  Even many of the Lambdas can be hard to get a perfect seal with.  When you break the seal of an electrostat, you start getting roll off below the resonance frequency which happens to be in the bass spectrum.  Once you are able to get a perfect seal, though, the frequency response will be flat beyond the audible range of human hearing (around 20 Hz).
   
  3.  Reputation of electrostatic speakers.  Speakers are naturally open air and not sealed to your ears, so all electrostatic speakers roll off beyond the resonance frequency.  In order to "push" this frequency down (as in roll off less/lower in the bass), you need to use larger panels.  This quickly gets out of hand though, as the panels required to do flat sub bass would be enormous.  Audiophiles seem to have a tendency to apply laws that work for certain components to other components as well, even when it makes no sense ( electrostatic speakers -> headphones, turntable anti vibration -> everything needs vibration control, turntables needing to be set at a perfect RPM leading to the birth of "PRAT" -> everything has PRAT, early digital was crap -> digital will always be crap, etc. ).
   
  4.  Typical bass response of electrostats vs dynamics.  As mentioned earlier, a well sealed electrostat or planar magnetic headphone will be completely flat in the bass and sub bass.  A typical (good) dynamic's frequency response looks a little different.  They tend to have a little hump in the mid bass (slight bass emphasis) and then roll off a little in the sub bass (slight bass deficiency).  You can see why many of us say Stax have an accurate level of bass.  I think many audiophiles are accustomed to that slight emphasis in the mid bass.


----------



## Maxvla

It's mostly the impact that you miss with electrostats. Listen to a good recording with strong bass drum hits with an electrostat and a dynamic and even though the stat likely has more spl and better response down to inaudibility, the dynamic will sound more right. This isn't always that noticeable, but certain genres and recordings will reveal this difference.


----------



## n3rdling

I'm not convinced more impact = more accurate.  For example, I think the LCD2's level of bass impact is completely over emphasized, yet people were praising those for their "accurate amount of impact".  Seems like people are used to kick drums being played through dynamic concert speakers at 120 dB hitting them in the chest and confusing that with neutrality.  I think it really depends on the instrument, personally.  Some instruments should have the impact of a LCD2 (or more) and others should have the impact of a SR-Lambda (or less).  No transducer will be able to vary its impact, so maybe the ability of mics to capture 'impact' and not just SPL is inadequate...arnaud, your thoughts?


----------



## Maxvla

I agree. It is a thing that is hard to describe and decide about. When I heard my first electrostats (SR202, 303, 404) at a meet when my personal rig was balanced HD600 I was tempted to buy the SR202 from the guy who was showing them. I thought they were better as a whole, and still think that, but there is something about the impact that lends it more realism despite being less accurate (most dynamic headphones are less accurate overall, but in particular the bass is much more distorted). I ended up staying with the HD600 because of it. Sadly with the loudness wars taking away dynamics from many modern rock recordings, that impact is less evident, so in a way, electrostats are better with modern rock than classic rock, assuming modern is compressed. When I had the SR-007 mk1 and have listened to the SR-009 at meets this sensation of lost impact is greatly reduced, but still lingers. The SR-007 in particular sounded very good in the bass giving a good punch, though still not quite as hard of an edge as a dynamic. I'd love to listen to the Jades and HE-90 again to compare their impact, but I only listened to a few songs on each and don't recall them well enough to describe that particular aspect. I remember them both having excellent bass overall.


----------



## K_19

I had the LCD-2 previously and now the modest 007/717 rig... I can't say I miss the LCD-2's in the bass area. 007's hit hard/extend more than well enough.  What I do miss about the LCD-2 sometimes is their more intimate in-your face mids/vocals that can be very good for some materials sometimes to my ears.  007's are without a doubt excellent in midrange/vocal presentation as well but it's done in a different way (more air and transparency but more backed off than the LCD-2s).
   
  One day when I can easily afford it I'll buy the LCD-2's again, they're great headphones as well with it's own character. Not in a hurry to though and I know 007's would still get 80% of my head time anyway.


----------



## rgs9200m

009s have a ton of bass... about on par with Lcd 3s.


----------



## gilency

So I sold my Stax Sigma for 565.00 to an individual who has been banned from here on numerous occasions  and he is now selling them at ebay for 1399.00.
  He is even using my pictures!
  This is my for sale post:
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/645056/stax-sigma-normal-bias#post_9053555
  and this is his at ebay:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-bundle-SR-7-energizer-superb-Mint-/111009205349?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item19d8aa0c65
  I realize everybody wants to make a buck, but this guy has no shame. Only thing I can do is expose him for what he is.
  So you know not to deal with him, he is from El Cerrito, CA. 
  I have talked to Currawong about this lowlife.
   
  EDIT: they are not my pictures. But I am pretty sure is the Sigma I sold.
  Sigma SN: 06356
  SRD7 SN: 23113


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





gilency said:


> So I sold my Stax Sigma for 565.00 to an individual who has been banned from here on numerous occasions  and he is now selling them at ebay for 1399.00.
> He is even using my pictures!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-bundle-SR-7-energizer-superb-Mint-/111009205349?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item19d8aa0c65
> I realize everybody wants to make a buck, but this guy has no shame. Only thing I can do is expose him for what he is.
> ...


 
  I have been looking at his stuff for a long good while, didn't know he was banned from here, other than his inflated prices for the vintage Yama orthos and the Sigma Pro's, wiktor.pl is another one (but he owns a serious amount of gear so he milks from most of his sales).


----------



## pkshan

The best bass I've heard from a headphone is lambda signature,sounds realistic
  507 has more impact, but it has less texture, and the mid bass is a bit unnatural
   
  both bass are far better than hd600 IMHO, the hd600 bass is nothing like the real thing


----------



## juantendo8

Quote: 





gilency said:


> So I sold my Stax Sigma for 565.00 to an individual who has been banned from here on numerous occasions  and he is now selling them at ebay for 1399.00.
> He is even using my pictures!
> This is my for sale post:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/645056/stax-sigma-normal-bias#post_9053555
> ...


 
   
  Wow, what an ass. I had been looking at those for a while, wondering who would be suckered in. Never thought that the seller would be from here.


----------



## Maxvla

pkshan said:


> both bass are far better than hd600 IMHO, the hd600 bass is nothing like the real thing



Agreed in all but impact, IMO.


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> I think this is the first and only time I'm doing that unless I come up with a circuit board adapter.  it takes a lot longer than it looks!


 
  Apologize if I missed it; what is the ballpark cost on such a mod, or was this a one-off thing?


----------



## jeffreyfranz

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I had the LCD-2 previously and now the modest 007/717 rig... I can't say I miss the LCD-2's in the bass area. 007's hit hard/extend more than well enough.  What I do miss about the LCD-2 sometimes is their more intimate in-your face mids/vocals that can be very good for some materials sometimes to my ears.  007's are without a doubt excellent in midrange/vocal presentation as well but it's done in a different way (more air and transparency but more backed off than the LCD-2s).
> 
> One day when I can easily afford it I'll buy the LCD-2's again, they're great headphones as well with it's own character. Not in a hurry to though and I know 007's would still get 80% of my head time anyway.


 
   
_The modest 007/717 rig?_ I know it's all relative, but...


----------



## Hun7er

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-set-headphones-SR-Sigma-Professional-and-amplifier-SRM-007t-/300855896134?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item460c68a846
   
  The price !!! 
   
  I have told him that his price is too expensive.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> Apologize if I missed it; what is the ballpark cost on such a mod, or was this a one-off thing?


 
   
  about $300 + the cost of tubes


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





hun7er said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-set-headphones-SR-Sigma-Professional-and-amplifier-SRM-007t-/300855896134?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item460c68a846
> 
> The price !!!
> 
> I have told him that his price is too expensive.


 
  Thats wiktor.  He is a professional flipper.
   
  Gilency's guy is nkkuma.  He sells Yamahas for $2500 and headphones that he gets for free out of goodwill for thousands.  
   
  They are both examples of why the summit-fi/vintage market is so perilous right now.


----------



## schorsch

Help / Advice ... with F-81 electrostatic speakers,
   
  well I'm looking for that person who bought I think 5 sealed original panels on ebay some time ago. I need at least on new panel!
   
  Can they be rebuild?
   
  Regards Georg


----------



## Hun7er

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Thats wiktor.  He is a professional flipper.
> 
> Gilency's guy is nkkuma.  He sells Yamahas for $2500 and headphones that he gets for free out of goodwill for thousands.
> 
> They are both examples of why the summit-fi/vintage market is so perilous right now.


 
  That disguts me, I have sell a SR007tI in mint conditions for $1000 including postage fee to him. I hope that nobody will buy at this price.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





jeffreyfranz said:


> _The modest 007/717 rig?_ I know it's all relative, but...


 
   
  Around these parts...


----------



## n3rdling

wiktor is a nice guy but I'm not sure why he hasn't been banned yet...


----------



## DefQon

Never active. I remember one of the Orpheus set's he was selling few years back for around $35000. Guy may have over 10 sets of the Orpheus but his prices are nuts.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I had the LCD-2 previously and now the modest 007/717 rig... I can't say I miss the LCD-2's in the bass area. 007's hit hard/extend more than well enough.  What I do miss about the LCD-2 sometimes is their more intimate in-your face mids/vocals that can be very good for some materials sometimes to my ears.  007's are without a doubt excellent in midrange/vocal presentation as well but it's done in a different way (more air and transparency but more backed off than the LCD-2s).
> 
> One day when I can easily afford it I'll buy the LCD-2's again, they're great headphones as well with it's own character. Not in a hurry to though and I know 007's would still get 80% of my head time anyway.


 
  I feel you, I sold my kgss+O2 for that reason. I like a more direct, intimate sound and perhaps less airy. I actually prefer the ESP 950 to the O2mkI.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Thats wiktor.  He is a professional flipper.
> 
> Gilency's guy is nkkuma.  He sells Yamahas for $2500 and headphones that he gets for free out of goodwill for thousands.
> 
> They are both examples of why the summit-fi/vintage market is so perilous right now.


 
  He's at it again:
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-A-Grado-RS1-headphones-with-pink-Drivers-with-wood-box-Perfect-condition-/111004092733?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item19d85c093d
   
  $1100 for a pair of used RS-1s that should go for $450-475 IMO.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Do people actually buy this crap?
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> He's at it again:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-A-Grado-RS1-headphones-with-pink-Drivers-with-wood-box-Perfect-condition-/111004092733?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item19d85c093d
> 
> $1100 for a pair of used RS-1s that should go for $450-475 IMO.


----------



## DefQon

Those old out of production Grado's always cost a fair amount. From what I see those are not your normal RS1's? May be wrong.


----------



## K_19

Since it has the wood box and the pink drivers, I'm thinking they command more than the normal RS-1's, perhaps in the $600-700 range. $1100 though? That's good condition HP1000 territory...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Do people actually buy this crap?


 
  As they say, buyer beware!
   
  With the box and being older out of production drivers (though I prefer the RS1i to the pink drivers), I would say $550 max.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Since it has the wood box and the pink drivers, I'm thinking they command more than the normal RS-1's, perhaps in the $600-700 range. $1100 though? That's good condition HP1000 territory...


 
  Oh man, maybe in 2009.  Bad condition has been getting way more than that lately.  I know one person who dropped $2800 for pristine set (unless you're talking Yammy's not Grados.)


----------



## pkshan

Tried SRD7mk2 with my Xin Supermacro3 portable headphone amp(blackgate modded,3x BUF634)
  result is surprising good! It's refined and transparent,
  I got even a little larger sound stage and better bass impact than my modded T1S
  (T1S is more musical & warmer)
   
  just need to turn the volume knob to 10 o'clock to get enough volume
  with the SRD7mk2,the Lambdas are more efficient than AKG K340/K240s


----------



## jjinh

It's quite strange that this thread has reminded my RS-1s are being neglected... 
   
  Just got them out - I wish they had pink drivers ;_;


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> I feel you, I sold my kgss+O2 for that reason. I like a more direct, intimate sound and perhaps less airy. I actually prefer the ESP 950 to the O2mkI.


 
  I think I know what you guys are talking about. Perhaps the Maggies would suit you for speakers. I love direct "in the face" sound with realistic impact and listen to live recordings mostly. When I close my eyes with a good recording they sound just like two stacks of a perfect PA right in front of me. OTOH solo vocalists and small acoustic bands sound a bit too big. Can't win 'em all ...
   
  I understand the Hifiman and Audeze headphones are planarmagnetics, too. Birds of a feather so to speak.
   
  Just ordered the leather pads for my LNS from Audiocubes. I'm intrigued.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





yawg said:


> I understand the Hifiman and Audeze headphones are planarmagnetics, too. Birds of a feather so to speak.


 
   
  Yes...  I'd like to hear an LCD-2 with a ribbon tweeter added above 4,000 Hz  ... DSP xover bi-amped of course


----------



## pkshan

Heard the lambda professional, like its name,really a studio/pro sounding headphone!
  uncolored,powerful,realistic bass, neutral mids,
   
  the only thing I don't like is the high frequency brightness


----------



## singh

i know this isnt sennheiser thread but, thre are more people in this thread who care about orpheus .
   
here is a deal : 
   
   
  Quote: 





> _...found these while clearing out a attic however I have no use for such a thing and after looking on ebay . found they go for more then I was expecting .
> 
> They look immaculate in a wooden . all I've down its plug them in to see if it all still works and looks all good ...._


 
   
  he says thre is nothing wrong, but there might be ( cause he dint buy it, he found it in his attic )
   
  Dont bid unless you cant check it personally. ( or you can trust some one to check it personally )


----------



## anetode

Feedback From Buyer/price Date/time



 GO ELSWHERE AND AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE SCAM *Member ID *ebid-electronics  ( *Feedback score of* 801





) 
 08-Feb-13 11:51   -- -- Private



 This comment has been removed by eBay. Learn more. *Member ID *teamgtr-com  ( *Feedback score of* 374





) 
 03-Feb-13 19:42   -- -- Private


----------



## shipsupt

Collection only... and I'm in the UK....


----------



## singh

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Feedback From Buyer/price Date/time
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  feedback doesnt matter , it must be hand to hand deal only , as the seller himself dont know what the item should sound like ( and what the condition must be ) i woldnt have dealt with him even if feedback was 100%.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Collection only... and I'm in the UK....


 
  cheap as it may be ( for orpheus ) you must have 5-10 K spare also ( else its not a big deal to search for relatives in UK,  for an Indian  )


----------



## Currawong

The Stax interview and factory tour is up:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/650210/stax-interview-and-factory-tour-12-12-12
   
  Much thanks to Scott for arranging the visit and writing questions and arnaud for all the difficult translation work.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





singh said:


> feedback doesnt matter , it must be hand to hand deal only , as the seller himself dont know what the item should sound like ( and what the condition must be ) i woldnt have dealt with him even if feedback was 100%.


 
   
  Sporadic selling activity, majority of feedback from buying lower priced goods, first two negative feedbacks from buyers within a week of the current listing. No, feedback doesn't matter at all


----------



## singh

you dint get what i wanted to say.
   
  whats feedback ? whats its importance ? think about it .
   Now, as you have to meet him personally why should feedback matter.


----------



## anetode

It's a good indicator not to get your hopes up. If you mean that the option for personal verification of the goods negates the need for feedback then that is only partially true. The two recent negative feedbacks imply that the ebayer's recent sales, maybe even of the same item, are shady. Still, the best of luck to whoever takes the time to find out, I'm rooting for them.


----------



## singh

if it was a HD600 , i would understand .
   
  BUT THIS IS ORPHEUS !!!
   
  97% (feedback) , you will get an orpheus at awesome price .


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Yes...  I'd like to hear an LCD-2 with a ribbon tweeter added above 4,000 Hz  ... DSP xover bi-amped of course


 
  My 3.6R cross over to the ribbon @ 1.800 Hz IIRC. The  Apogee full-ribbon speakers still have some followers who swear they still sound excellent albeit they are very difficult to drive properly. Would be interesting to have ribbon cans too. Or are there ribbon headphones already on the market?
   
  I seem to remember that Mark Levinson designed his original amp for the big Apogees. But I could be wrong.
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Heard the lambda professional, like its name,really a studio/pro sounding headphone!
> uncolored,powerful,realistic bass, neutral mids,
> 
> the only thing I don't like is the high frequency brightness


 
  IIRC the original Lambda Pro was designed together with/ for the Mercedes Benz car factory. It was meant to monitor /measure noise in the car.


----------



## autoteleology

I must be the standout who found my Lambdas (SR-303) to actually be a little warm in terms of total sound signature (with an SRM-Xh amp).


----------



## Maxvla

You are not alone, in fact, that is the standard description of the SR-303.


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The Stax interview and factory tour is up:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/650210/stax-interview-and-factory-tour-12-12-12
> 
> Much thanks to Scott for arranging the visit and writing questions and arnaud for all the difficult translation work.


 

 Thanks for posting . . . great interview with STAX executives . . .


----------



## Currawong

That Orpheus on eBay, if you do a Google Image search you'll see it was taken from a Head-Fi classified: 
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/201748/fs-sennheiser-orpheus-he90-hev90-system-253-300


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> That Orpheus on eBay, if you do a Google Image search you'll see it was taken from a Head-Fi classified:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/201748/fs-sennheiser-orpheus-he90-hev90-system-253-300


 
   
  Not sure if the seller is legit but it's pick-up only so as long as you dont pay for it in advance... unless you turn up at his place with GBP5000 and he and his big burly friends plan to mug you.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The Stax interview and factory tour is up:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/650210/stax-interview-and-factory-tour-12-12-12
> 
> Much thanks to Scott for arranging the visit and writing questions and arnaud for all the difficult translation work.


 

 Many thanks for this Currawong. Very interesting insight.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Do I get it right: there are building an amp, which exceeds the performance of the T2 and will sell for about the price of the 009?


----------



## n3rdling

I don't think they've set a price on it yet.  They just said that the T2 sold for the same amount as the SR-Omega.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Which one of you won this Beyerdynamic ET-1000 just now?
   
  It's one of those uncommon vintage electrostatic sets that don't appear all that often, and for some reason, there isn't too much information on the Internet about them. All I know is that they're a 1976 design, roughly when the SR-Sigma was released and three years before the SR-Lambda's debut.
   
  Maybe one of you could chime in as to how it sounds relative to the Stax gear we're all familiar with?
   
  On another note:
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Why is it that Lambdas (and usually Stax in general) seem to have a forum reputation for "no bass"? I listen primarily to EDM on my SR-303s and they can have massive kick when the song calls for it.


 
   
  Good question there. If you want a "no bass" headphone, go look at the Audio-Technica AD700 (or the GE H-22 if you really want to suffer). All the Lambdas I've tried have more bass than the AD700, easily.
   
  That said, I didn't really have a good frame of reference for what people think of as "good bass" until I got to audition Mad Lust Envy's HE-400. It was then that I actually noticed that the HE-400 and Lambda bass presentations were actually quite similar in a lot of ways, but the HE-400 had a bit more visceral impact at the same volume level. (Of course, the opposite frequency responses of the HE-400 and SR-Lambda also complicate the overall perception a bit.)


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





yawg said:


> My 3.6R cross over to the ribbon @ 1.800 Hz IIRC. The  Apogee full-ribbon speakers still have some followers who swear they still sound excellent albeit they are very difficult to drive properly. Would be interesting to have ribbon cans too. Or are there ribbon headphones already on the market?
> 
> I seem to remember that Mark Levinson designed his original amp for the big Apogees. But I could be wrong.
> 
> Best regards, Jörg.


 
  I had Apogee Stages for a few years in the 90s. A really live sound.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I had Apogee Stages for a few years in the 90s. A really live sound.


 
   
  Back then I had Duettas. I didn't like them that much so I replaced them with Scintillas, the 1Ohm. I also heard the Divas briefly and they were the best Apogees.


----------



## DefQon

The Orpheus listing is no longer available...damn I wanted to entertain myself a bit if it was a scam.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





gilency said:


> So I sold my Stax Sigma for 565.00 to an individual who has been banned from here on numerous occasions  and he is now selling them at ebay for 1399.00.


 
   
  Good ol' nkkuma.
   
  I bought some vintage stuff from him a few years ago when he was still on head-fi. The prices he offered me at that time were OK; not great but not ridiculous. Then he got bold and tried to sell me his YH1000 for over $2k, right around the time he was banned. I see he's since tried to come back under multiple sock accounts.
   
  I seriously _hope _people have enough sense to realize what he's doing and not enable him. Unfortunately I've been seeing more and more newcomers to this hobby who want to go straight for the gold so to speak---experience the mystique of these older headphones---and don't do enough research. When they pay these prices it sets a precedent, and now nkkuma can turn around and point to the sale as justification for charging even more in the future.
   
  That YH1000 I mentioned? He had been trying to sell it for over $2k for several years, and thankfully no one was stupid enough to bite. At least until recently, as now it's listed as sold. Some poor sod's knees must be hurting; he got taken for a big ride.
   
  Frankly people like nkkuma are a blight on this hobby.
   
   

   Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Why is it that Lambdas (and usually Stax in general) seem to have a forum reputation for "no bass"? I listen primarily to EDM on my SR-303s and they can have massive kick when the song calls for it.





   
  Yeah, I find the "stats have no bass" thing to be greatly exaggerated. Usually it's parroted by folks who have little to no actual experience with them as is so often the case in this hobby.
   
  I'd also add that, in my experience at least, it's an overall sense of weight that's part the issue. Stats can sometimes lack a certain fullness or solidity. I think this is greatly exacerbated by under-amping, something which leaves the headphones flat and lacking in punch. The SR-007 for instance just sounded limp until I gave it enough juice, at which point it woke up and sounded much fuller and robust.
   
  My favorite headphones for most subgenres of electronic music are those which are often labeled as the most inappropriate for such applications: SR-Omega, SR-Sigma, the Qualia 010, and the HD800. Not only are they fully capable transducers, but they have an ability to render ambience and inner-dynamics better than most of the genre's "approved" headphones I find.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Heard the lambda professional, like its name,really a studio/pro sounding headphone!
> uncolored,powerful,realistic bass, neutral mids,
> 
> the only thing I don't like is the high frequency brightness


 
  The lambda pro had run-in for 2 days, the piercing highs have gone(still a little)
   
  The mids & bass are FULL of emotion energy,
  I feel the Pro has the best vocal & bass, most realistic highs,compare to my other lambdas, closest to the recording
   
  Didn't hear the lambda normal bias yet
  maybe i am too excited?


----------



## sphinxvc

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Good ol' nkkuma.


 
   
  He seemed like an ok guy, I sold something to him once.  I get that flipping is a bad thing for collectors but technically the market should be allowed to go wherever it may (willing buyer/seller).  Especially when it's something as irrelevant/non-consequential and harmless as headphones.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





sphinxvc said:


> He seemed like an ok guy, I sold something to him once.  I get that flipping is a bad thing for collectors but technically the market should be allowed to go wherever it may (willing buyer/seller).  Especially when it's something as irrelevant/non-consequential and harmless as headphones.


 
   
  Flipping isn't just a bad thing for collectors. In fact, it's what fosters the collectors' market in the first place. The SR-Sigma, while rare, was still affordable enough for "regular" head-fiers to buy and enjoy before greed turned it into something only crazy collectors will ever get to own now. We're seeing the same thing with vintage orthos: they went from something everyone could afford to a collectors item because of eBay.
   
  And he seemed like an okay guy when I bought stuff from him, sure. See the feedback we left for one another several years ago. Thing is, I found out after the fact that he would make up lies about "regrettably selling off the last of his personal collection to pay for tuition" and stuff like that, when he was really getting stuff for cheap and turning around and selling it for like 400x markup.
   
  As for the market, well I kind of agree with you. When someone pays $2.5k for a YH1000, it's their own fault. However it sets a precedent that effects everyone. For instance Wiktor helped drive up the prices on Orpheus sets to ridiculous heights, making his living by buying up sets and parts and gradually driving up the price (which now sits at like $30k on his eBay listings). Reminds me of the diamond trade.
   
  Technically it's "fair," but it's still pretty gross in my opinion.


----------



## ValentinHogea

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Flipping isn't just a bad thing for collectors. In fact, it's what fosters the collectors' market in the first place. The SR-Sigma, while rare, was still affordable enough for "regular" head-fiers to buy and enjoy before greed turned it into something only crazy collectors will ever get to own now. We're seeing the same thing with vintage orthos: they went from something everyone could afford to a collectors item because of eBay.
> 
> And he seemed like an okay guy when I bought stuff from him, sure. See the feedback we left for one another several years ago. Thing is, I found out after the fact that he would make up lies about "regrettably selling off the last of his personal collection to pay for tuition" and stuff like that, when he was really getting stuff for cheap and turning around and selling it for like 400x markup.
> 
> ...


 
  A question I've been contemplating... Just looking at the FS-section of the forum. If the original owner didn't sell on head-fi, is it okay to sell an item for the same and/or more expensive price.
   
  I primarily am thinking about some very rare Grado's that are being advertised at ridiculous prices. And yeah, at least one of the pairs were purchased from an english gentleman via eBay when he was cutting down on his collection. Ok or not?
   
  I'd like to try several uncommon HP's. But it's getting ridiculous. R10's for 6900 USD. HP1000's at 2300 EUR.


----------



## autoteleology

If there is anything that I truly hate in this world, it is people who attach themselves like leeches to an institution and then proceed to suck it dry of everything that made it positive in the first place, while adding nothing of any value at the same time. People who make a living exploiting an ecosystem at the expense of everyone else disgust me.


----------



## Maxvla

Oh, so humans, then.


----------



## mgeagan

Quote: 





asr said:


> In regards to the BHSE listing on Audiogon: it looks very suspicious to me. There's quite a bit of copy in that ad that's *not *on HeadAmp.com and sounds like info that might be either made up or inaccurate (for example: the Alps RK50 is $1K, not $1495). And if I were you, I'd ask why he's using a 230V version in the USA. You could also ask Justin @ HeadAmp who bought serial #20, so you can determine if the seller is the original owner or not.


 
   
  I also saw these items, was very interested and posted a few questions to audioonetoo, asking for photos of the earpads (there was an image up when the listing was new that seemed to show weathered leather on the pads, but the image was taken down.), history of the amp, and a purchase date for the O2s. Normal questions for a new user, etc. I had my checkbook out. I got back a snippy reply accusing me of hostility, and telling me that future questions would be ignored. Now the listings are down. Too bad; could have been nice gear...


----------



## bearFNF

Free market Capitalism is what you are talking about.  The 'market' will balance and weed out the dishonest ones.  Communication like what we are doing will help that. We as potential customers must be wary of high or low prices that dont follow what is expected after we do our work by investigating the market.


----------



## DefQon

lol...I remember going through the F/S section here back when I first started lurking back in 2004 just before the time some major changes occured here, Stax Lambda's going for $150-250, CD3k's going for $350 most. Fast forward a few years ahead and you see Lambda's being sold for $350 average to $500 sometimes for mint condition units or just with a SRD-7SBMKii adapter, CD3000's up to $450-550, sometimes even more. I guess it's just when a product, especially NOS, unobtaniums/discontinued models get exposed throughout  the audiophool land, more and more demand arise and more people are curious so the prices go up and up. Same thing that is and has happened with NOS tubes. Heck I remember seeing a few K1000's going for around the price of a used LCD2 being sold nowadays, what's the prices on the K1000's now these days? $1200-1500? Ridiculous.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Oh, so humans, then.


 
  Here. Have an Internet. 
   
  +1


----------



## DefQon

Btw @ MF: The YH1000 are still up for sale from "musicshen" if you want to buy them, only little under $2000 so it should be cheap for you.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Btw @ MF: The YH1000 are still up for sale from "musicshen" if you want to buy them, only little under $2000 so it should be cheap for you.


 

 That classified is a big joke and I hope no one buys it from that person. It is literally thievery when looking over that headphone's condition.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> That classified is a big joke and I hope no one buys it from that person. It is literally thievery when looking over that headphone's condition.


 
   
  It is indeed, wish ebay had some measures to control sellers flipping sales or so. But that just becomes more of a benefit for ebay themselves.


----------



## MuppetFace

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Btw @ MF: The YH1000 are still up for sale from "musicshen" if you want to buy them, only little under $2000 so it should be cheap for you.


 
   
  Thankfully I found an YH1000 a while back for less than half the price of what nkkuma / musichen is asking, and in much better condition.
   
  It's a shame he's flipping such a nice set of Sigmas. If someone pays that ridiculous price, I hope they can at least enjoy them. While not worth almost the price of a used SR-007mk1, they're still really nice.


----------



## NamelessPFG

All this talk about headphone values vs. current selling prices makes me think back to my Lambda + SRD-7/SB combo. Only cost me $250 shipped, and that seemed like the right price at the time. Obviously, a Lambda with no transformer box should have sold for less.
   
  But after looking through Head-Fi B/S/T and eBay for a while, that didn't seem like the case any more, and so I had to re-adjust my recommendations with the doubled prices in mind.
   
Let's see how much this one sells for in the end...it'll probably be in the $400s by the time this is over.


----------



## Nemeske88

It is raining STAX oldies now. There are at least three NB Lambda up at Ebay simultaneously
  Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> All this talk about headphone values vs. current selling prices makes me think back to my Lambda + SRD-7/SB combo. Only cost me $250 shipped, and that seemed like the right price at the time. Obviously, a Lambda with no transformer box should have sold for less.
> 
> But after looking through Head-Fi B/S/T and eBay for a while, that didn't seem like the case any more, and so I had to re-adjust my recommendations with the doubled prices in mind.
> 
> Let's see how much this one sells for in the end...it'll probably be in the $400s by the time this is over.


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The lambda pro had run-in for 2 days, the piercing highs have gone(still a little)
> 
> The mids & bass are FULL of emotion energy,
> I feel the Pro has the best vocal & bass, most realistic highs,compare to my other lambdas, closest to the recording
> ...


 
   
  You can take a chance, if you want


----------



## Number9

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Do you do this mod for an SRM-007tii owner? If not, who does? Thank you.


 
   
  I'm not trying thread crap here, but I would like to come back to this topic...
   
  I'm curious about the voltage swing of the modified SRM-727 vs the modified 007T (using 6S4A tubes).
   
  Which amp can swing more?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





muppetface said:


> Thankfully I found an YH1000 a while back for less than half the price of what nkkuma / musichen is asking, and in much better condition.
> 
> It's a shame he's flipping such a nice set of Sigmas. If someone pays that ridiculous price, I hope they can at least enjoy them. While not worth almost the price of a used SR-007mk1, they're still really nice.


 
  Yeh I figured you had them already (just a joke from me expecting you to buy the one's listed on ebay). The Sigma Pro's is one I'd love to own and try out, due to the design of the housing chamber and position of the stators, they supposedly give a very unique imaging and soundstage attribute to the sound.
   
  Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> It is raining STAX oldies now. There are at least three NB Lambda up at Ebay simultaneously


 
   
  There's 4 actually (one being sold AS-IS with a damaged stator housing). I'm bidding on all of them for the sake of using the stators for modding.


----------



## rgs9200m

The Lambdas really pressed on my ears when I owned them. The 009s and current SR007s are a world more comfortable.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> The Lambdas really pressed on my ears when I owned them. The 009s and current SR007s are a world more comfortable.


 
   
  I find the Lamda's to be the most comfortable out of the 3 Stax I've worn, the Omega and 007 Mark 1's.


----------



## n3rdling

Those Lambdas sold for a pretty reasonable price considering their condition.  There's also a Sigma Pro on ebay.co.uk for a decent price.


----------



## autoteleology

I got a Stax SR-303 in near mint condition with an SRM-Xh, with three different Lambda pads, for about $600 all things considered. Good deal?


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Those Lambdas sold for a pretty reasonable price considering their condition.  There's also a Sigma Pro on ebay.co.uk for a decent price.


 
  If this is the one
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Very-RARE-STAX-SR-Sigma-Professional-Earspeaker-/140914020344?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item20cf214ff8
  Apparently they are out of balance


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> The Lambdas really pressed on my ears when I owned them. The 009s and current SR007s are a world more comfortable.


 
   
  It depends on which Lambda model you're talking about.
   
  I find the SR-Lambda far more comfortable than the SR-202 and SR-303 precisely because of the lower clamping force of the vintage headband/arc design compared to the Nova/numerical models' arc.
   
  I haven't tried the SR-507, SR-007, or SR-009, so can't comment on those, but if they're higher than a vintage Lambda, I probably won't like them as much in comfort terms.
   
  Earpad type and condition probably play into it as well; the SR-202 and SR-303 have the same headband/arc style, but the SR-303's pads were noticeably softer, and thus significantly more comfortable to wear.


----------



## MorbidToaster

The 009 is the most comfy I've tried due to them not using the blocky lambda frame.


----------



## n3rdling

I think pretty much all Lambdas (especially the older ones), the SR-Omega, SR-Omega2, and SR-Sigma are all very comfortable headphones. 
   
  gilency, ya those are the ones...guess I should have taken the time to read the ad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  In that case, those are pretty overpriced.


----------



## DefQon

That seller located within Japan has a lot of rare audiophile Jap stuff. His prices are not cheap as well, his last used 407 was listed at $600 with a few nicks on the frame arc. I've been eyeing some of his Nakamichi stuff since last year.


----------



## Nemeske88

Yes, these are rather for donors than for an instant listening pleasure as their condition are stated as unchecked but who knows. The one with the damaged housing can be a big shot if it wouldn't requires more to repair than an Edding 400
   
  Quote: 





> There's 4 actually (one being sold AS-IS with a damaged stator housing). I'm bidding on all of them for the sake of using the stators for modding.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





number9 said:


> I'm not trying thread crap here, but I would like to come back to this topic...
> 
> I'm curious about the voltage swing of the modified SRM-727 vs the modified 007T (using 6S4A tubes).
> 
> Which amp can swing more?


 
   
  These mods don't alter the PSU in either amp so the voltage swing is the same as stock.


----------



## Hun7er

Anybody has made a shootout between SR507, SR404LE and LNS ?


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Dont get 507. Worst lambda! Lamba nova for more balanced sound. Lambda pro/sig for extra treble.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





hun7er said:


> Anybody has made a shootout between SR507, SR404LE and LNS ?


 
  ... and LNS with leather pads?


----------



## MorbidToaster

404LE is my favorite lambda.


----------



## DefQon

407 = Lambda Pro > 507 > 303 > 202 for me.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





defqon said:


> 407 = Lambda Pro > 507 > 303 > 202 for me.


 
  Interesting, I commented before that I tested the 407 and the 507 side by side on the same amp both with the 507 leather pads and I could not hear a difference. I agree that with the stock pads the 407 and the 507 sound slightly different. The comfort issue alone was enough to settle me on the 507 pads for my 407's. They could still improve the comfort as I find they clamp the ears too hard on both models.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Interesting, I commented before that I tested the 407 and the 507 side by side on the same amp both with the 507 leather pads and I could not hear a difference. I agree that with the stock pads the 407 and the 507 sound slightly different. The comfort issue alone was enough to settle me on the 507 pads for my 407's. They could still improve the comfort as I find they clamp the ears too hard on both models.


 
   
  does 407 sounds warmer/musical than 507? 
  cause 507 uses silver plated cable (which I don't like)


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





chodi said:


> Interesting, I commented before that I tested the 407 and the 507 side by side on the same amp both with the 507 leather pads and I could not hear a difference. I agree that with the stock pads the 407 and the 507 sound slightly different. The comfort issue alone was enough to settle me on the 507 pads for my 407's. They could still improve the comfort as I find they clamp the ears too hard on both models.


 
  Unfortunately I have not tried the 507 pads on the 407 or vice versa as both the 407 and 507 units I extensively heard belonged to a friend of mine. The 407 sounded bit smoother but with a bit less bass depth than my Lambda Pro's which are using the latest 202 black pads so the seal is quite good. The 507 had a slightly annoying bright treble and sometimes sounded like something was resonating giving a ringing noise. I'm not sure if the difference between the 407 and 507 is just the pads, unless the stators used are exactly the same.
   
  Another thing to add is the newer model's (407, 507, 202 etc) based on the newer Lambda frame headband arc assembly are less comfortable compared to the vintage Lambda model's. More clamp down force on the new ones, but the build quality on the new headband assemblies are much stronger than the old thin ones. But I still find all the Lamda frame stats almost equally comfortable compared to most other headphones and more than the Mk1's.


----------



## Chodi

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> does 407 sounds warmer/musical than 507?
> cause 507 uses silver plated cable (which I don't like)


 
  Just the opposite. The stock 507 has more bass and mid-bass than the stock 407. In my experience the difference is entirely in the pads. I really found the stock pads on the 407 uncomfortable. Once I put the 507 leather on my 407's comfort improved, but they are no match for the comfort of my T1's. As for the warmth issue, I could not claim either the stock 407 or 507 as warm sounding. Certainly not like an HE 500. Both the 407 and the 507 sound very neutral and slightly sterile compared to my other headphones. I don't really mean that in a negative way. That is to say that they are less colored than most headphones. When I want to kick back and listen to some classical music with a sweet sound I go to my Beyer T1's. The 407/507 gives you a tonal presentation that is probably truer to the recording. Depending on the recording that may not be the most enjoyable pairing. In any case, I do not find them bright on good recordings as some have suggested.


----------



## arnaud

Edit: minor typo... capacitive load, not inductive, you idiot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Can the pads make a big difference? Most definitely!
   
  Can the cable plating make a difference? I don't have first hand experience, but at least I would consider twice before extrapolating experiences with something like an interconnect or an unbalanced headphone cable and a stax cable with high voltage, balanced lines, massively capacitive load, and the list goes on and on and on...


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> does 407 sounds warmer/musical than 507?
> cause 507 uses silver plated cable (which I don't like)


 
   
  The 407 and 507 sound nearly identical in my experience.


----------



## Number9

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> These mods don't alter the PSU in either amp so the voltage swing is the same as stock.


 
   
  Thank-you, but now I'm confused in understanding what is really at play with the 007T mod. I thought the tube swap for 6S4A's was to improve voltage swing.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The 6s4 mod improves the distortion characteristics of higher amplitude voltage swings.
  The sound difference is significant. A lot less constriction and compression.


----------



## spritzer

The 6CG7's are only rated at 330V but asked to work at 700VDC.  This puts a lot of strain on the tubes when they are asked to swing higher voltage (i.e. higher volume levels).  The 6S4A is rated at 550V with very high peak voltage levels so it's far more comfortable at these voltages.


----------



## Number9

Its funny, I had read numerous mentions about the mod, but I was entirely left with the impression it was about increasing voltage swing. 
   
  Thank-you gentlemen, that clarifies things.


----------



## forbigger

anyone heard this DAC before ?
   
  http://app.audiogon.com/listings/da-converters-stax-x2-t-2013-02-05-digital-england
   
  Does it command the asking price ? Just curious anyway........


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





number9 said:


> Its funny, I had read numerous mentions about the mod, but I was entirely left with the impression it was about increasing voltage swing.
> 
> Thank-you gentlemen, that clarifies things.


 
  It is about voltage swing - or not? The voltage swing of the tubes. With the alternative tubes the amp can realize more of the voltage swing potential of the PSU and deliver improved dynamics.
   
  I have a T1S and am also very interested in this mod. All Stax cans will make good use of every little bit of extra clean power you will feed them IMHO.
   
  Does the mod fit into the original enclosure?


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> anyone heard this DAC before ?
> 
> http://app.audiogon.com/listings/da-converters-stax-x2-t-2013-02-05-digital-england
> 
> Does it command the asking price ? Just curious anyway........


 
  Considering what people pay for the 009 this looks like a steal.


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> anyone heard this DAC before ?
> 
> http://app.audiogon.com/listings/da-converters-stax-x2-t-2013-02-05-digital-england
> 
> Does it command the asking price ? Just curious anyway........


 
   
  Found a picture of it by chance in this review:
   
  http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/stax/stax.html


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





yawg said:


> It is about voltage swing - or not? The voltage swing of the tubes. With the alternative tubes the amp can realize more of the voltage swing potential of the PSU and deliver improved dynamics.
> 
> I have a T1S and am also very interested in this mod. All Stax cans will make good use of every little bit of extra clean power you will feed them IMHO.


 
   
  Voltage swing is a crap measurement at the best of times as it tells us pretty much nothing, least of which how that voltage swing translates into the load the amp is trying to drive.  It's just a maximum rating but doesn't tell us anything about the quality of the output at these levels. 
   
  The T1S only has two tubes so the 6S4A won't work.  You can swap in the ECC99 but it uses more heater current and you need to rewire the socket and change the plate resistors.


----------



## kkqewl

Hi,
   
   
  I have recently tried the ECC99 mod on my SRM-T1 and all went well until I tried to set the bias,  on left side I was able to get it under one volt but on the right side a get a reading of 400 volts bias and 380 volts for the offset !!
   
  I have rebiased this unit numerous times with the stock tubes in it and never had any issues ?
   
  I have rechecked my work with the pictures provided by those on this site and i can't find any errors, is it possible I have a different version T1 ,   The serial number is B8335 for this unit. here are some pictures.
   

   

   
  Any help would be appreciated


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Voltage swing is a crap measurement at the best of times as it tells us pretty much nothing, least of which how that voltage swing translates into the load the amp is trying to drive.  It's just a maximum rating but doesn't tell us anything about the quality of the output at these levels.
> 
> The T1S only has two tubes so the 6S4A won't work.  You can swap in the ECC99 but it uses more heater current and you need to rewire the socket and change the plate resistors.


 
  I read a bit on the ECC99 and "equivalents" on the German tubes forum and the "consent" was that the E192CC was even better than the ECC99. Wrong?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





kkqewl said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have recently tried the ECC99 mod on my SRM-T1 and all went well until I tried to set the bias,  on left side I was able to get it under one volt but on the right side a get a reading of 400 volts bias and 380 volts for the offset !!
> ...


 
   
  The pics are too small for me to see any detail but changing the plate resistors to 30K units and disconnecting/rewiring the filaments is all you need to do.  Something is very wrong to give these results so shorted plate resistors, shorted tubes both spring to mind. 
   
  Quote: 





yawg said:


> I read a bit on the ECC99 and "equivalents" on the German tubes forum and the "consent" was that the E192CC was even better than the ECC99. Wrong?


 
   
  E182CC?  It may be slightly better for some uses but here it's worse than the stock 6CG7.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> E182CC?  It may be slightly better for some uses but here it's worse than the stock 6CG7.


 
  Thanks spritzer. I just found out that the only factory that makes the ECC99 is JJ. I have zero trust in JJ as all the triodes I tried from JJ sounded the worst of all contenders I tried in the same spots in my tube gear (DAC, pre- and power amps). They all had the same signature: bloated mids, treble rolloff and muddy bass. The types I tried were 6922, [size=small]12AX7 and [/size][size=small]12AU7.[/size]
   
  [size=small]If there is no alternative, JJ is a definitive no-no.[/size]
   
  [size=small]Best regards, Jörg.[/size]


----------



## spritzer

The ECC99 is a new design so it's naturally only made by one company.  It's a close relative to the 12BH7 though... 
   
  The JJ ECC83 is better than any of the nos tubes measured but they will naturally not fix badly designed circuits.  Noise on the least good sets was down a few dB compared to the nos tubes.


----------



## kkqewl

Hi Spitzer,
   
  Thanks for the reply, I think I have a bad tube since if I switch tube positions, the problem is now on the other channel and the previous channel is now OK !
   
  These are brand new  ECC99 tubes from JJ so maybe there is somthing about their quality control that is lacking ?. Never thought that a brand new tube would act like that?  I use mostly older NOS tubes in much of my audio gear that are still going after 40+ years !
  I have a replacement ECC99 on the way so hopefully I will be able to up and running soon.
   
  Actually I have two SRM-T1 units , one that is still bone stock and this one I am modding to ECC99 tubes. I want to be able to compare them directly to see what sonic changes or improvements occur.  
   
  I will report my findings as soon as I can.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





kkqewl said:


> Hi Spitzer,
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I think I have a bad tube since if I switch tube positions, the problem is now on the other channel and the previous channel is now OK !
> 
> ...


 
  Hi kkqew,
   
  Great. I love the sound of my T1S but compared to my SRM-3 it lacks bite. Would be almost too good to be true if you could improve the power output of the T1 without touching its sound sig.
   
  I would be surprised if JJ had become significantly better. I never came across a "decent" sounding JJ tube. My best driver tubes are all vintage US triple mica black plates - the best of the best with extra support rods.
   
  Just my 2 cents.


----------



## realmassy

I use the JJ ECC99 on my SR600 ltd and they sound good to me: it's no BHSE but it's not tubes fault


----------



## realmassy

I use the JJ ECC99 on my SR600 ltd and they sound good to me: it's no BHSE but it's not tubes fault


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





yawg said:


> I never came across a "decent" sounding JJ tube.


 
   
  *shrug* The JJ ECC802S is the best 12AU7 type tube I have heard in my Crack.


----------



## pkshan

I did the ecc99 mod to my t1s,
  bass is less boomy,high frequency extension is a bit better 
  soundstage is a bit wider
   
  the stock GE 6CG7 has thicker mids,better vocals
   
  & please use AMRG plate resistors if possible
  the sound of kiwame is blurred


----------



## yawg

Thanks for your comments guys. I wait what kkqew will find out.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





kkqewl said:


> Hi Spitzer,
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I think I have a bad tube since if I switch tube positions, the problem is now on the other channel and the previous channel is now OK !
> 
> ...


 
   
  Bad tubes are more the fault of the tube dealer than JJ.  They do some testing at the factory but the final tests of each tube should be done by the tube seller.


----------



## K_19

Noobish question here...
   
  So I have a Japanese SRM-717 unit here (using it with a step up/down transformer) which I'm currently using single-ended, but I'd like to give the balanced  connection a shot to see if it makes any meaningful difference at all.. but from what I've read earlier there is something about the Japanese unit xlr connector pins being reversed or something like that? Mine's a Japanese 100v unit so the pin 2 is the negative polarity. Does this mean that this particular unit is not compatible with the xlr-outs on North American-made DACs or that I have to get a specialized cable or something like that?  I have nearly no experience with using xlr cables, only simple plug and play RCA cables most of the time so I have no idea how this works and what's safe/not safe, etc.  
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## padam

Yes it does invert the phase but basically you needn't care, it is hard to tell if there is any difference in sound. Absolutely no harm at all.
   
  Setting the voltage to 117V and skipping the voltage transformer might make it a bit better though.
   
  If you have a "true" balanced source then XLR input is always preferable.


----------



## kkqewl

So , I got my ECC99 tube replacement quicker than expected and yes all is ok now.
   
  I agree that tube dealers should be checking tubes but JJ's  track record is not that great especially for certain types of tubes.
   
  Funny I have an older B&K tube tester but since the ECC99 is a newer tube I did not have any guideline as to what settings I should use to test it.
   
   
  Prelimanry evaluation of the ECC99 mod vs the stock T-1 has begun, so far mids are little more prominent with better dynamics but with perhaps a little more grain, still early though, I need to listen for a week or so to get a better feel for the differences though.


----------



## spritzer

If your tester has a 12BH7 setting then you can test the ECC99 on that.  They are similar but not identical.


----------



## kkqewl

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If your tester has a 12BH7 setting then you can test the ECC99 on that.  They are similar but not identical.


 
   
   
  Good idea I will try that to see how that tube measures up.
   
  Also another weird thing I noticed is that both of my Stax  T-1 units have their AC neutral lead and not the hot lead connected to the inlet fuse ?  With a three prong AC plug inserted I measure ~ 60 volts from chassis to ground "real earth" If I use a cheater plug and turn the three prong plug around so that the hot AC lead is now fused I then measure only 9 volts chassis to ground !
   
  Are all T-1 units hooked up incorrectly with regards to proper AC orientation or is this somehow related to the way the Japanese AC power grid is set up ??
    I am loacted in Canada where we run on 120 volts and 60Hz and most if not all equipment is fused using the hot AC lead.


----------



## spritzer

It's the Japanese standard but there the plugs are non directional and they have no earth pin.


----------



## Currawong

Japanese sockets are usually only 2-pin usually with only sockets for high-power equipment such as air conditioners and washing machines having an earth/ground screw. Except in older places, the sockets have different sized positive and neutral pins, but the plugs on most equipment have 2 small pins so the plug can go in either way. I can only recall one or two things I've ever come across here that had distinctly polarised plugs.
   
  The confusion comes in that the socket polarity is the same as the USA. China uses the US plugs, but with reversed polarity (or you can think of it as the earth/ground pin being above the positive and neutral pins rather than below). China also has another standard that is identical to the Australian system including polarity.


----------



## autoteleology

I apologize that this is somewhat branching off-topic, but I wonder why all of these different regions adopted such vastly different power standards and have made no effort to reconcile them in this day and age. I'd think it would put a real damper on the importation/exportation of almost everything electronic.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I apologize that this is somewhat branching off-topic, but I wonder why all of these different regions adopted such vastly different power standards and have made no effort to reconcile them in this day and age. I'd think it would put a real damper on the importation/exportation of almost everything electronic.


 
   
  They aren't that different now. We're down to about 4 different standards and voltages now that are common with some countries still using their own weird plug and socket variations.


----------



## TheAttorney

For the 2nd time in my O2 Mk1 ownership, I've managed to break the cable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. "To break a Stax cable once may be regarded as a misfortune. To break it a 2nd time looks like carelessness".  
   
  Only I didn't do anything wrong the 2nd time - honest guv. The cable should be able to handle the occasional moderate tug. It's not obvious why the "y" clamp is so fragile at the junction - it's looks and feels pretty solid to me, and none of the wires _look_ damaged. Yet a slight twist at the LHS junction point causes the LHS sound to cut in and out.
   
  The resolution (for people not brave enough to take their 007's apart) is for the dealer to fit a brand new cable - from memory at around £120 including labour. I'm guessing a brand new cable is is required because that y clamp looks to be integral with the cable - either that or the dealer just wanted more profit.
   
  If it ever happens a 3rd time, then...well... I shall get very cross!
   
  EDIT: My "Y" clamp description may be misleading. I mean the point at which the cable enters the phone (with "L" and "R" inscribed). Not the point lower down where the single ribbon splits into two,


----------



## Solude

At the Y?  That's new.  The MkI cable mount at the housing is fragile though.  Mine went out on one side back in the day.  Luckily you are in the UK, I had to send mine to the UK because Yama was MIA.


----------



## Headzone

Anyone have any idea what I could do with my broken SRM-212 energizer? Tried contact my country's Stax distributor but never got an answer from there.. It has one channel broken, is it even repairable?


----------



## kevin gilmore

srm212 is definitely repairable. If its the input fet, you may have to search on ebay.
  otherwise, parts should be fairly easy.


----------



## cat6man

Quote: 





currawong said:


> They aren't that different now. We're down to about 4 different standards and voltages now that are common with some countries still using their own weird plug and socket variations.


 
   
  There are numerous reasons historically, including national and regional pride/competitiveness.
   
  I have to say the most bizarre example I know of is in Japan, where if I'm not mistaken, the voltage is uniform but the east and west sides of the country use 50 and 60hz, which was a real problem after the tsunami when power plants on the west side of the honshu couldn't be immediately used to help the east due to the difference.
   
  Anyone know why Japan had these two different 50/60 hz setups?


----------



## Nemeske88

Dear Forum!
  I'm about to replace the foam on my lambda due optical issues only. If anyone done this before, please help me! Is it requires very agile hands or can easily be worked out?


----------



## kkqewl

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If your tester has a 12BH7 setting then you can test the ECC99 on that.  They are similar but not identical.


 
   
   
  Ok, using the 12BH7 settings on my tube tester , the good ECC99 tests at 110 for both sections minimum acceptable is 60 , the bad tubes gives no readings at all on either section !
   
  The only thing that seems to work on this tube are the heaters.


----------



## astrostar59

Hi David
   
   
  Quote: 





> the problem I have is with some recordings using that combo, is there's an edge to the sound that's uncomfortable.


 
   
   
  Do you get that same edge with IanG's LL?  I wonder if the 009 is just so transparent it shows everything (including weaknesses)
   
  I know you have a great source (Esoteric) but that is Over Sampling technology. I ran with that for years with less money DACs but still supposed to be good (Naim and Meridian(
  then I discovered None Oversampling tubed DACs by Audio Note which did it for me. The dreaded treble digititous to many recordings was gone, and replaced by smooth (and detailed) 
  organic music, less hi-fi and steely / false, and more tactile and real sounding. Also the DAC I use has NO digital filet, it has been removed, and the difference is remarkable. It doesn't lift
  the treble energy, rather, it removes the last bit of grain and also lets the tiny ambient sounds come through.
   
  I would recommend trying an Audio Note DAC 3.1 for example. If you ring Peter Q at Audio Note UK, he might loan you one if you leave a deposit.
  I'll bet it will be a keeper. You could use the Esoteric as your CDP only.


----------



## David1961

Hi Julian,
   
  There's only some of my CD's I have problems with my 009/ BHSE, and to what I can recall, those CD's weren't used when I heard my 009's with Ian's LL. It's also been around 8 months since I heard Ian's LL, so I can't remember what CD's we listened to. 
   
  Thank you for your recommendation on trying the Audio Note DAC 3.1, but I've spent more than enough on audio equipment, plus I need to start with home improvements, so I won't be buying any more audio equipment or headphones for a long time.


----------



## jgazal

Quote: 





cat6man said:


> Anyone know why Japan had these two different 50/60 hz setups?


 
   
   
   


> (...)
> The two grids were originally developed by separate companies. Tokyo Electric Light Co was established in 1883 which also established electric power in Japan. In 1885 demand had grown enough that TELCO bought generation equipment from AEG of Germany.[17] The same happened in the western parts of Japan with General Electric being the supplier to Osaka Electric Lamp.[17] GE's equipment used the US standard 60 Hz while AEG's equipment used the European standard of 50 Hz.[17]
> (...)
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_in_Japan


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Dear Forum!
> I'm about to replace the foam on my lambda due optical issues only. If anyone done this before, please help me! Is it requires very agile hands or can easily be worked out?


 
   
  Just lift the pads up on sides where the screws are located by referencing to that picture (don't need to remove the pads completely). Once done, use something flat and sandwich it between the gaps of the metal base and the plastic housing (or use your nails) and lift it up. Before completely lifting it up, the cable bit where it comes out there is a flat little piece of metal there lift it up along with the cable and the rest of the stator base. the foam will be double taped on about 4 places so if you want to retain the cotton thingy but replace the foam on the otherside, gently lift it up, rips and tears extremely easily due to age.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Japanese sockets are usually only 2-pin usually with only sockets for high-power equipment such as air conditioners and washing machines having an earth/ground screw. Except in older places, the sockets have different sized positive and neutral pins, but the plugs on most equipment have 2 small pins so the plug can go in either way. I can only recall one or two things I've ever come across here that had distinctly polarised plugs.
> 
> The confusion comes in that the socket polarity is the same as the USA. China uses the US plugs, but with reversed polarity (or you can think of it as the earth/ground pin being above the positive and neutral pins rather than below). China also has another standard that is identical to the Australian system including polarity.


 
  Forgive me for returning to this point, but I am considering purchasing a STAX system here in Japan, since the prices are much better than in the US.  But I see the drivers are set for the Japanese standard 100V 50/60.  I'm planning eventually to use the system in the US, which is 120V/60. I realize there is usually some flexibility, but I don't want to take any chances with these.  Any thoughts or advice?  (And please forgive me if this subject has been covered earlier in the thread--I've just jumped in toward the end.)  Thanks in advance.


----------



## Michgelsen

A lot of people use Japanese Stax amps outside of Japan. Some of the older Stax amps can easily be converted to accept different voltages by means of a voltage selector (in the form of a jumper block) on the back. Newer amps however do not have this ability, and need to be used with a step-down transformer. Alternatively, it is possible to open up the amp and reconnect the wires from the transformer for your targeted voltage, but this is difficult and requires soldering. In case of the smaller amps (SRM-212, 252 etc.) that use an external power brick, you can buy a new suitable power brick for the correct input voltage.


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Just lift the pads up on sides where the screws are located by referencing to that picture (don't need to remove the pads completely). Once done, use something flat and sandwich it between the gaps of the metal base and the plastic housing (or use your nails) and lift it up. Before completely lifting it up, the cable bit where it comes out there is a flat little piece of metal there lift it up along with the cable and the rest of the stator base. the foam will be double taped on about 4 places so if you want to retain the cotton thingy but replace the foam on the otherside, gently lift it up, rips and tears extremely easily due to age.


 
   
  Thanks. I am mainly worry about installing the new foam and the wool in correct depth to avoid any change in its sound signature and also that the wool might be bursted apart while "detaching" it from the doublesiders.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> A lot of people use Japanese Stax amps outside of Japan. Some of the older Stax amps can easily be converted to accept different voltages by means of a voltage selector (in the form of a jumper block) on the back. Newer amps however do not have this ability, and need to be used with a step-down transformer. Alternatively, it is possible to open up the amp and reconnect the wires from the transformer for your targeted voltage, but this is difficult and requires soldering. In case of the smaller amps (SRM-212, 252 etc.) that use an external power brick, you can buy a new suitable power brick for the correct input voltage.


 
  Thanks Michgelsen, this is helpful and reassuring.  I was thinking of another solution, driving the STAX headphones through a Lyr + Wee combo--does this make sense?  It comes to about the same price, and I'd have some versatility with the Lyr to drive non-electrostatic phones.   Thanks in advance for your thoughts.


----------



## darinf

Quote: 





also said:


> Forgive me for returning to this point, but I am considering purchasing a STAX system here in Japan, since the prices are much better than in the US.  But I see the drivers are set for the Japanese standard 100V 50/60.  I'm planning eventually to use the system in the US, which is 120V/60. I realize there is usually some flexibility, but I don't want to take any chances with these.  Any thoughts or advice?  (And please forgive me if this subject has been covered earlier in the thread--I've just jumped in toward the end.)  Thanks in advance.


 
  I bought a Stax 323A amp from Japan for use in the US.
   
  I use this step up/down transformer and it works great.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





also said:


> I was thinking of another solution, driving the STAX headphones through a Lyr + Wee combo--does this make sense?  It comes to about the same price, and I'd have some versatility with the Lyr to drive non-electrostatic phones.


 
   
  Yes, that's another possibility. I'm not sure whether you can use the Lyr or the Wee in both a 100 and a 120 volt environment though, you'll have to ask them.
   
  I have no experience with transformer boxes to power Stax headphones, but seeing that all of the experienced 'stat lovers around here use dedicated electrostatic amps, I assume transformer boxes are inferior to at least some extent. For the price of a Lyr + Wee you can buy a good Stax amp, but I understand why you want to go the 'versatile' route and combine dynamic and electrostatic amplification. In your situation, with the voltage problem, and also with Japanese prices, a SRM-252 would be a good option because you can change the power brick. I think some people around here would prefer a 252 over a Wee. They should cost roughly the same if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Yes, that's another possibility. I'm not sure whether you can use the Lyr or the Wee in both a 100 and a 120 volt environment though, you'll have to ask them.
> 
> I have no experience with transformer boxes to power Stax headphones, but seeing that all of the experienced 'stat lovers around here use dedicated electrostatic amps, I assume transformer boxes are inferior to at least some extent. For the price of a Lyr + Wee you can buy a good Stax amp, but I understand why you want to go the 'versatile' route and combine dynamic and electrostatic amplification. In your situation, with the voltage problem, and also with Japanese prices, a SRM-252 would be a good option because you can change the power brick. I think some people around here would prefer a 252 over a Wee. They should cost roughly the same if I'm not mistaken.


 
  Terrific, thank you Michgelsen, and for your patience with me.  I can indeed get a 252S for a relatively cheap price, but would you recommend it to drive say a 507?  Here in Tokyo it's paired with a lower end 207.  Thanks again.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Thanks. I am mainly worry about installing the new foam and the wool in correct depth to avoid any change in its sound signature and also that the wool might be bursted apart while "detaching" it from the doublesiders.


 
  The wool makes no difference at all with the sound signature, in fact you can remove it and not hear any differences at all. The outer foam of the yellow wool in my Lamda Pro's deteriorated to the point when I touched it it became sticky so I just removed the outer foam and kept the wool intact when I was recabling a problem with the cables on my LP's.
   
  Spritzer was one of the first to confirm this, I didn't believe it till I tried it myself. But I have to admit the yellow wool is ugly by itself I wanted to remove it but I thought it best stay in it as it looks hollow without it just the bare drivers showing and it acts as a dust protector as well (if you haven't already have a dust protector for these vintage headphones)..
   
  Hope this helped.


----------



## arnaud

DefQon, that is so surprising! This is a wool lining on the outer casing? Is there another foam layer between the outer case and electrode? Else a foam layer between the electrode and the ear right against the electrode (it which it is indeed to imagine it is much more influencial than outer case wool lining)?
   
  In any case, the outer case wool lining should improve the imaging (minimizing reflections from the casing) and/or help counter some frame cavity resonance but indeed it may be minor compared to the foam against the electrode used for driver damping / as acoustic filter (when between the ear and the electrode) to shape the tonal balance.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> DefQon, that is so surprising! This is a wool lining on the outer casing? Is there another foam layer between the outer case and electrode? Else a foam layer between the electrode and the ear right against the electrode (it which it is indeed to imagine it is much more influencial than outer case wool lining)?
> 
> In any case, the outer case wool lining should improve the imaging (minimizing reflections from the casing) and/or help counter some frame cavity resonance but indeed it may be minor compared to the foam against the electrode used for driver damping / as acoustic filter (when between the ear and the electrode) to shape the tonal balance.


 
  Hi Arnaud,
   
  Inside the stator chamber is a yellow wool lining that is double taped in 4 various places (at least for my Lambda Pro's) to the frame housing which blocks off most of the vents. Outside the wool is a thin layer of very course brown looking foam which sits in between the inner vents of the housing and the yellow wool lining. I originally thought it as some sort of dampening method Stax used to prevent the sound from sounding too bright but I was wrong when I had them removed to recable the Pro's due to a problem. Unfortunately the thin layer of foam that sits outside the yellow wool lining started to crumble when I touched it I removed it completely after seeing reports from other's that it does not have any effect on the sound properties at all and those people were right. 
   
  Seeing it hard to find another pair of Pro's in the condition mine are in and the price I purchased them for I carefully removed the deteriorating foam and taped back the yellow wool lining to the inner frame again, it doesn't look aesthetically pleasing but it may help as a dust guard while they sit on my HPS-1 stand.
   
  Also I have tried but unable to find a proper replacement foam which I want to install back inside, it could some sort of proprietary foam Stax use.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





also said:


> Terrific, thank you Michgelsen, and for your patience with me.  I can indeed get a 252S for a relatively cheap price, but would you recommend it to drive say a 507?  Here in Tokyo it's paired with a lower end 207.  Thanks again.


 
   
  Let me first say that I'm not a real believer in incremental amp upgrades. I have found differences between amps to be generally small. The Lambda series, which the 207 and 507 are part of, are relatively easy to drive. A 507 is not that different from a 207, design wise, meaning that if the 252S does fine with the 207, it's a reasonable assumption that it will also do fine with the 507. If the 207 is anything like the 202, its sound is not lower end at all!
   
  Stax amps are well made and good value for money. The bigger amps have more power, so depending on your budget, you might want to buy one of the bigger Stax amps, for example a 323 or a 006t. In case you're really going for the top-of-the-line Stax (007/009), you can step up to even bigger amps: 727, KGSS and beyond.
   
  Personally, I would choose a 252S over a Wee. But then again, I don't have to combine a dynamic/speaker system with my electrostatic system.
   
  What Stax headphones do you plan to drive? Seeing that you're in Tokyo, there should be a few places where you can go listen to Stax systems: a luxury that many of us here don't have. I'd say, go try some out, and don't let the thought that more expensive = better get in the way.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Let me first say that I'm not a real believer in incremental amp upgrades. I have found differences between amps to be generally small. The Lambda series, which the 207 and 507 are part of, are relatively easy to drive. A 507 is not that different from a 207, design wise, meaning that if the 252S does fine with the 207, it's a reasonable assumption that it will also do fine with the 507. If the 207 is anything like the 202, its sound is not lower end at all!
> 
> Stax amps are well made and good value for money. The bigger amps have more power, so depending on your budget, you might want to buy one of the bigger Stax amps, for example a 323 or a 006t. In case you're really going for the top-of-the-line Stax (007/009), you can step up to even bigger amps: 727, KGSS and beyond.
> 
> ...


 
  Michgelsen,
   
  Your responses are invaluable, thank you.  I've listened to the STAX lineup several times since coming to Tokyo, but only ever casually, since I'd not planned to take the plunge just yet.  I've listened casually to their entire current lineup, and they sound superb, top to bottom.  Since I'm new to this, I wanted to spend more time listening and learning, but the deep commitment I sense from STAX loyalists on this thread and elsewhere, I find myself drawn to STAX more and more.  They have some nice packages, basically for around US$500, US$1,000, and up.  The basic system is about $US500, and includes the 207 paired with 252S, it also has an AC adaptor, as you noted, which would relieve me of the anxiety of frying the driver once in the US.  I'll go an relisten to this system, and maybe start there.  I'll let you know, and thanks so much.  Feeling much more focused.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





also said:


> Michgelsen,
> 
> Your responses are invaluable, thank you.  I've listened to the STAX lineup several times since coming to Tokyo, but only ever casually, since I'd not planned to take the plunge just yet.  I've listened casually to their entire current lineup, and they sound superb, top to bottom.  Since I'm new to this, I wanted to spend more time listening and learning, but the deep commitment I sense from STAX loyalists on this thread and elsewhere, I find myself drawn to STAX more and more.  They have some nice packages, basically for around US$500, US$1,000, and up.  The basic system is about $US500, and includes the 207 paired with 252S, it also has an AC adaptor, as you noted, which would relieve me of the anxiety of frying the driver once in the US.  I'll go an relisten to this system, and maybe start there.  I'll let you know, and thanks so much.  Feeling much more focused.


 
   
  If you don't fear buying used (and you are lucky) you can get an SRM-T1 plus SR-Lambda for not much more. It will sound a lot better than the Basic setup.
  In fact I have tried almost all of the new and old Lambdas and none of the others seem to match it for the purity of the midrange, they sound a bit artificial in comparison (especially the 507).
   
  Also since you are currently in Japan you can order new earpads cheaply (which the headphones will probably need) and after that they will be ok for many years to come.
   
  Yes you might need the amp to be re-wired later on, but it is not such a big deal.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





padam said:


> If you don't fear buying used (and you are lucky) you can get an SRM-T1 plus SR-Lambda for not much more. It will sound a lot better than the Basic setup.
> In fact I have tried almost all of the new and old Lambdas and none of the others seem to match it for the purity of the midrange, they sound a bit artificial in comparison (especially the 507).
> 
> Also since you are currently in Japan you can order new earpads cheaply (which the headphones will probably need) and after that they will be ok for many years to come.
> ...


 
  Thanks for this suggestion--do you think I'd be able to listen to these somewhere?  The places I visit in Tokyo have the latest, but not much from the past.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





also said:


> Thanks for this suggestion--do you think I'd be able to listen to these somewhere?  The places I visit in Tokyo have the latest, but not much from the past.


 
   
  I guess not. Unless you find a generous local head-fi-er who you can organize a micro-meet with, you will need to rely on written impressions.
  But if you search for opinions about the SR-Lambda you will struggle to find much negative about it. Except that it is quite rare even though it was made in large quantities for many years.
  Sure it does not have as deep bass as the new ones but as I said, the midrange is just stunning.
  At some point I will try to summarize it in a review.

 I think micro-meetings are actually much more useful because you are not nearly as distracted compared to a big headphone meet with lots of noise etc. so these impressions need to be taken with caution (imho)
  You really need to listen at a quiet environment to appreciate all the differences.
   
  And I would also like to add that a good source is important if I didn't have the Lavry I might not appreciate Staxes as much as I do now.
  Good DAC + cheap vintage Stax = win


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





padam said:


> I guess not. Unless you find a generous local head-fi-er who you can organize a micro-meet with, you will need to rely on written impressions.
> But if you search for opinions about the SR-Lambda you will struggle to find much negative about it. Except that it is quite rare even though it was made in large quantities for many years.
> Sure it does not have as deep bass as the new ones but as I said, the midrange is just stunning.
> At some point I will try to summarize it in a review.
> ...


 
  Thank you Padam, for adding these thoughts.  I will try to seek some audiophiles in Tokyo--they are all over the place, in fact, and some among my friends who jump on the topic if I bring it up.  If I do go with one of the newer packages (I am eager to spend some time with something STAX), do you recommend a particular DAC for this, since I'll be listening primarily from a MBP (2012) as my main source?


----------



## arnaud

ALSO,
   
  I'd recommend to check Audio Union. I bought my "vintage" Omega 2mk1 from there last year and the price was good. / condition pristine (new pads, new headband). As a matter of fact, they have a used T1 in one of the "Tokyo" shops which goes for under 35,000JPY atm. No Lambda though, so it would be air Stax for a while . 
   
  Other than that there are a few of us here in Tokyo with Stax rigs so you'd be welcome to join a spring meet for a listen!
   
  arnaud
   
   
  PS: at least 4 among us in JP are using mbp and other mba to drive usb dacs feeding stat rigs, so you'd probably be able to compare a few dacs too at full rig meet. I guess we only need to resume the planning


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> ALSO,
> 
> I'd recommend to check Audio Union. I bought my "vintage" Omega 2mk1 from there last year and the price was good. / condition pristine (new pads, new headband). As a matter of fact, they have a used T1 in one of the "Tokyo" shops which goes for under 35,000JPY atm. No Lambda though, so it would be air Stax for a while .
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks so much Arnaud, I'm not far from Ochanomizu, so I'll go see what's at Audio Union, and a spring meet in Tokyo would be great, thanks!


----------



## padam

Quote: 





also said:


> Thank you Padam, for adding these thoughts.  I will try to seek some audiophiles in Tokyo--they are all over the place, in fact, and some among my friends who jump on the topic if I bring it up.  If I do go with one of the newer packages (I am eager to spend some time with something STAX), do you recommend a particular DAC for this, since I'll be listening primarily from a MBP (2012) as my main source?


 
  Everybody's taste is different but the Centrance DACPort LX would be my personal pick (keeps the system small and portable too, if that matters).
   
  Higher up the ladder I would probably go for a Lavry Benchmark, Mytek, etc. DACs that are more versatile and don't have a strong personal character of their own.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





padam said:


> Everybody's taste is different but the Centrance DACPort LX would be my personal pick (keeps the system small and portable too, if that matters).
> 
> Higher up the ladder I would probably go for a Lavry Benchmark, Mytek, etc. DACs that are more versatile and don't have a strong personal character of their own.


 
  Thank you for these suggestions, I'll look into each, and where possible will try to test these out.


----------



## Michgelsen

If you're really lucky, you might find a used SRM-T1 with a voltage selector on the back, which would solve your problem entirely.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> If you're really lucky, you might find a used SRM-T1 with a voltage selector on the back, which would solve your problem entirely.


 
  Thanks again, since your last suggestions, I've been all over the internet looking, and hopefully getting closer.  I'll keep you posted, and thanks again.


----------



## spritzer

All SRM-T1's have a voltage selector but most just have it inside the amp, accessed by removing the bottom panel.  Only the very early units had external selectors and then two of them as there are two transformers in there.  I'd stay away from those units...


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All SRM-T1's have a voltage selector but most just have it inside the amp, accessed by removing the bottom panel.  Only the very early units had external selectors and then two of them as there are two transformers in there.  I'd stay away from those units...


 
  Why should I steer clear of those?  Also, while I have your attention, how easy (or hard) is it to change the tubes?  Thanks again--


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





defqon said:


> The wool makes no difference at all with the sound signature, in fact you can remove it and not hear any differences at all. The outer foam of the yellow wool in my Lamda Pro's deteriorated to the point when I touched it it became sticky so I just removed the outer foam and kept the wool intact when I was recabling a problem with the cables on my LP's.
> 
> Spritzer was one of the first to confirm this, I didn't believe it till I tried it myself. But I have to admit the yellow wool is ugly by itself I wanted to remove it but I thought it best stay in it as it looks hollow without it just the bare drivers showing and it acts as a dust protector as well (if you haven't already have a dust protector for these vintage headphones)..
> 
> Hope this helped.


 
   

   
  I just can't belive that the wool makes no sense at all. Just for putting my palms near the housing make changes in it's treble, this phenomenon is more typical with the 303.
  As for dust protection, I have my own methods. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  (Edited: Sorry for my ignorance if it caused by something completely different than some accoustic reasons)


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





also said:


> Why should I steer clear of those?  Also, while I have your attention, how easy (or hard) is it to change the tubes?  Thanks again--


 
   
  Never buy early versions as the design wasn't finalized at that point.  It's mostly the power supply that's the problem though. 
   
  You plug in new tubes and adjust balance/offset, it's that easy.  The procedure has been covered many times.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> I just can't belive that the wool makes no sense at all. Just for putting my palms near the housing make changes in it's treble, this phenomenon is more typical with the 303.
> As for dust protection, I have my own methods.
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I will respond to your pm later today...putting your palms over the housing or near the housing will change the sound a bit but it's different to when you don't have any wool/foam lining inside, the stators can still breathe. Maybe there are differences that could be measurable but I couldn't detect any differences whatsoever before and after the changes I did to my Lambda Pro's.
   
  Also I'm not sure it's a good idea to use generic plastic bags as a dust protector as it can cause ESD, you can either use the Stax CPC cover or you can buy vinyl covers which really do the job just fine.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Never buy early versions as the design wasn't finalized at that point.  It's mostly the power supply that's the problem though.
> 
> You plug in new tubes and adjust balance/offset, it's that easy.  The procedure has been covered many times.


 
  Thank you Spritzer.  If I'm able to land one, I'll go back and find the directions for changing tubes.  Thanks--


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I'd recommend to check Audio Union. I bought my "vintage" Omega 2mk1 from there last year and the price was good. / condition pristine (new pads, new headband). As a matter of fact, they have a used T1 in one of the "Tokyo" shops which goes for under 35,000JPY atm. No Lambda though, so it would be air Stax for a while .


 
  So I located a STAX SRM-T1 used in Tokyo, selling for 38,000 JPY.  They're holding it for me now, but the store insists there is no voltage converter on the back.  (I've seen photos of this switch online.)  I called STAX, and the person who answered claims that almost 100% of the T1s had those switches, but then he said his memory could be faulty.  He added that running a 100V amp in the US (120V) would be bad idea.  I called back the store asked the guy to check again, but he insists there's no switch to change the voltage, and that the model is definitely a T1 and not T1S.
   
  Any advice?  I won't be able to get to the store today, and even if I could, if there is no switch to convert the voltage, I'd still be at a loss.


----------



## Currawong

Here'a a picture of the rear of the T1. Note the markings indicating multiple voltages. The Stax amps that are only 100V say as much.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Here'a a picture of the rear of the T1. Note the markings indicating multiple voltages. The Stax amps that are only 100V say as much.


 
  Thank you Currawong, so it seems the one I've found is for use in Japan only, since it's marked for 100V.  I'll probably have to let this one go, unless someone has another suggestion.


----------



## autoteleology

Couldn't you use a step-down converter?


----------



## n3rdling

Why not use a step up transformer?


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Couldn't you use a step-down converter?


 
  Would this have any effect on the SQ, and any other potential problems?


----------



## ALSO

And is 38,000JPY, approximately US$415 a good price for the T1, assuming its working well?  Sorry for all the basic questions, I'm new to this, but have been really impressed by the STAX I've heard and am eager to get started without making too many missteps.


----------



## autoteleology

> Why not use a step up transformer?


 
   
  Why are we stepping up? We're trying to get from 120V to 100V.


----------



## K_19

Using one right now with my Japanese 100v 717 unit, and heard another one recently which was a 117v unit.  I found the difference very, very miniscule if any. 
   
  I could open up the 717 and switch the metal jumper rods around to make it 117v compatible, but already had a step up/down transformer so didn't want to bother.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Using one right now with my Japanese 100v 717 unit, and heard another one recently which was a 117v unit.  I found the difference very, very miniscule if any.
> 
> I could open up the 717 and switch the metal jumper rods around to make it 117v compatible, but already had a step up/down transformer so didn't want to bother.


 
  Thanks everyone for the quick responses.  If there are no major sound issues with the voltage transformer, and no other potential problems, I'm leaning toward pulling the trigger on the T1, if someone could confirm that it's a good value at 38,700JPY/US$415.
   
  I'd like to have a driver in place as I try out various STAX headphone options.
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## Dyaems

IMHO 415usd for a T1 is a steal, i bought my T1 around 600usd i think, although mine is in a mint condition
   
  and the T1 is still highly recommended for a stax amp as well, it can even drive a 007 fairly well in my book


----------



## arnaud

ALSO,
   
  I believe the typical cost of the T1 & other T1S was covered in a post back (like 350-400USD?). For Japan, I'd say Audio Union prices are totally fare considering you can check the product at their store and they sometimes come with 6months warranty (especially if they've been refurbished by Stax.
   
  The unit you found in Tokyo is 100V only as specified in the back but it doesn't mean there are no jumpers inside or at least transformer taps for 120V (in which case you could find someone to rewire it for you once in the us). I think Spritzer mentionned several times that Stax now cuts the wires for other taps at the base  of the transformer to make it harder to rewire the transformers (and hence prevent grey market traffic). Your T1 may be from some older age at a time where stac wasn't as concerned about this.
   
  As mentionned before, you can use a step down transformer in any case so if you're going to be in Japan for a while you shouldn't worry too much about it. Heck, by the time you go back to the usa, you might be a convert and lining up for a BHSE/omega 2 combo instead 
   
  The nice thing about the T1 is that it has normal bias plug too so you could explore more of the Stax dinosaur variety  The Lamdba normal bias and such (I have no idea which version is well appreciated but clearly some prefer the vintage stax models to more recent offerings).


----------



## ALSO

Thank you Dyaems and Arnaud, and everyone else for helping out, greatly appreciated.  I'm convinced.  Went ahead and ordered the T1.  It'll arrive tomorrow, but without any earspeakers.  That will be my next purchase, and at the moment am looking at the 507, which is in my price range.  Please forgive me in advance if I bother folks on this thread with more questions.  I'll start reading through this thread so I'm not repeating too much, but thank you again.  I've already spoken on the phone several times with Audio Union and STAX, but the quick responses and expert advice here have been invaluable.  Thank you!


----------



## DefQon

$415 for a T1? That's imho pretty much a steal of a price, whether or not it is an older/earlier unit compared to the T1S or W. Correct me if I'm wrong but the differences between them was just the way the trafo was wired allowing multiple selectable voltages for regions or ?


----------



## n3rdling

415 is a good deal and you'd have no trouble selling it off for that amount if you want to upgrade or move on eventually


----------



## n3rdling

Btw how much are you willing to spend on the 507s? I think the older lambdas sound better and are cheaper to boot.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Btw how much are you willing to spend on the 507s? I think the older lambdas sound better and are cheaper to boot.


 
  I'm seeing the 507s selling for around US$660 new, which would be in my price range, and was hoping would be a good entry point into the STAX world.  I'm not finding a lot of older headphones here in Tokyo, but haven't begun to hunt in earnest just yet.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





also said:


> I'm seeing the 507s selling for around US$660 new, which would be in my price range, and was hoping would be a good entry point into the STAX world.  I'm not finding a lot of older headphones here in Tokyo, but haven't begun to hunt in earnest just yet.


 
   
  Apparantly from those that have tried, it's worth getting the 407's + 507 pads, saving yourself some extra $$$.


----------



## Dyaems

I always liked the T1 + SR404 combo. although I tried only somewhat entry level Stax setup, I find the SR404 + T1 synergize each other very well. I don't have both anymore but if I recall correctly, the thing i liked about the combo is that I don't hear anything that gets my attention when I play music. Its just, plug it in, sit back, and enjoy the music. I also read that the Sales director? of Stax Japan is using the same combination haha


----------



## n3rdling

also said:


> I'm seeing the 507s selling for around US$660 new, which would be in my price range, and was hoping would be a good entry point into the STAX world.  I'm not finding a lot of older headphones here in Tokyo, but haven't begun to hunt in earnest just yet.




there are usually some on Yahoo Japan


----------



## ALSO

Found a used pair of 404LEs for about US$430.  Is this better than paying full price for a 507 or 407 (w/507 pads)?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> there are usually some on Yahoo Japan


 
   
  Bored so I checked... there's hardly any stax on there right now compared to what I recall it was like years ago. Incidentally some guy's selling new 507s for 66150JPY which is about USD50 more than the price ALSO mentioned.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> Found a used pair of 404LEs for about US$430.  Is this better than paying full price for a 507 or 407 (w/507 pads)?


 
   
  Looks like a decent price, and probably cheaper than 407s + 507 pads. I'd buy them


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Looks like a decent price, and probably cheaper than 407s + 507 pads. I'd buy them


 
  Thanks.  Am looking through threads for impressions on the sound differences between 404LE and 507.  Seems to be trending toward 404LE, for significantly less than a new pair of 507s, although I don't know what kind of shape the used pair are in, other than the seller's claim that it's in good shape.  But it's Audio Union, and they tend to be reliable.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





also said:


> Thanks.  Am looking through threads for impressions on the sound differences between 404LE and 507.  Seems to be trending toward 404LE, for significantly less than a new pair of 507s, although I don't know what kind of shape the used pair are in, other than the seller's claim that it's in *good shape*.  But it's Audio Union, and they tend to be reliable.


 
   
  Havent heard the 507s so can't help you there.
   
  Good shape in Japan means it's in very good shape. Like I said it's a good price. You'll definitely be able to sell them for that price if you dont like them - go buy them now!!!!


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> ... go buy them now!!!!


 
  Could not resist the certainty of this imperative--they are on their way.  Thank you everyone for making this a STAX day.  I'm excited, and deeply grateful to all.  The most welcoming community among the many here on Head-Fi.


----------



## DefQon

Just buy all of them ALSO...nothing better than collecting some Stax gear....


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





also said:


> So I located a STAX SRM-T1 used in Tokyo, selling for 38,000 JPY.  They're holding it for me now, but the store insists there is no voltage converter on the back.  (I've seen photos of this switch online.)  I called STAX, and the person who answered claims that almost 100% of the T1s had those switches, but then he said his memory could be faulty.  He added that running a 100V amp in the US (120V) would be bad idea.  I called back the store asked the guy to check again, but he insists there's no switch to change the voltage, and that the model is definitely a T1 and not T1S.
> 
> Any advice?  I won't be able to get to the store today, and even if I could, if there is no switch to convert the voltage, I'd still be at a loss.


 
   
  According to Spritzer a few posts up, most of the T1 amps have the switch *inside*, and only a few have it on the back. Thus it's no wonder the guy in the shop can't see it.
   
  Maybe the confusion is because I said, a few posts up, that a T1 with a switch on the back would be good for you. What I meant was, a T1 with a switch in general. My memory failed me. I thought my old T1 had a switch on the back, but as I checked some old photos of it, it appears it didn't.


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





also said:


> Could not resist the certainty of this imperative--they are on their way.  Thank you everyone for making this a STAX day.  I'm excited, and deeply grateful to all.  The most welcoming community among the many here on Head-Fi.


 
  this is good, found something suitable.
  make sure you put your hand under your chin before turning up the volume the first time, many owners report damage when jaws drop and chins hit the floor. <wink>


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

This is all a "Spritzer says" thread


----------



## arnaud

ALSO,
   
  it was a safe plan to forge ahead with the lamdba purchase. For one, you'd have gone nuts with a stat amp and nothing to drive. Furthermore, not sure what's happening recently in Japan but indeed there's nothing available on the used market from the audio resellers! A year ago, I swear there were multiple drivers and phones at the different Audio Union at other Fujiya Avic used stores. Now it looks like you snapped the only used stat amp there was left at the audio union stores, so I'd say you did well! Actually, I had been contemplating the T1 for a while, but you cleared my wish . Now, let's have a proper meet in the spring team Tokyo!


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> ALSO,
> 
> it was a safe plan to forge ahead with the lamdba purchase. For one, you'd have gone nuts with a stat amp and nothing to drive. Furthermore, not sure what's happening recently in Japan but indeed there's nothing available on the used market from the audio resellers! A year ago, I swear there were multiple drivers and phones at the different Audio Union at other Fujiya Avic used stores. Now it looks like you snapped the only used stat amp there was left at the audio union stores, so I'd say you did well! Actually, I had been contemplating the T1 for a while, but you cleared my wish . Now, let's have a proper meet in the spring team Tokyo!


 
  Thank you Arnaud, and everyone for the support, am feeling really good about this, and of course grateful for all the rapid responses.  The T1 should arrive tomorrow morning, the 404LE a few days later.  I can't wait to get everything up and running.  A Tokyo meet would be great, I'd love to hear how you and others have put your STAX et al to work.  Thanks again!


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> According to Spritzer a few posts up, most of the T1 amps have the switch *inside*, and only a few have it on the back. Thus it's no wonder the guy in the shop can't see it.
> 
> Maybe the confusion is because I said, a few posts up, that a T1 with a switch on the back would be good for you. What I meant was, a T1 with a switch in general. My memory failed me. I thought my old T1 had a switch on the back, but as I checked some old photos of it, it appears it didn't.


 
  I'd be really happy if there were such a switch tucked away inside.  I'll take a look once it arrives, fingers crossed.  Otherwise, will enjoy 100V in Tokyo, and then 110 transformed on the other side of the Pacific.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> this is good, found something suitable.
> make sure you put your hand under your chin before turning up the volume the first time, many owners report damage when jaws drop and chins hit the floor. <wink>


 
  Thanks for the heads up, so to speak!


----------



## kkqewl

Hi,
   
  I recently purchased an older T1  "B series" that was labeled as 100 volt "Japan only "  .But it had the switch inside, actuually i'ts located on the underside of the circuit board. Just remove the outer cover and then the lower base plate and you should see the switch.
  It's actually a plug in style connector that you can move to the appropriate setting for 117 / 120v operation.
   
  I am using mine with a Koss ESP-950 and it sounds great !


----------



## yawg

Hi ALSO,
   
  I see from your sig that you own a FiiO Alpen DAC/amp. Could you evaluate the FiiO against some higher-end DACs?
   
  I'm considering buying one for my netbook and good ole Sony CD-777 for on the road.
   
  BTW, I ordered a pair of leather pads from AudioCubes on February 7 and haven't heard from them yet. I thought they were fairly quick and communicative ...
   
  Sorry for the OT and TIA for your comments,
   
  Best regards, Jörg.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





also said:


> I'd be really happy if there were such a switch tucked away inside.  I'll take a look once it arrives, fingers crossed.  Otherwise, will enjoy 100V in Tokyo, and then 110 transformed on the other side of the Pacific.


 
   
  I've never seen a T1 without a switch and I've owned at least 30 of them.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Even if the actual switch is missing then it can still be changed by rewiring it manually.  I can walk you through that when the time comes. 
   
  Ohh and get that 404LE over the 507.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Yeah he should have been listening to me, when said that 507 is the worst lambda....


----------



## spritzer

It's far from the worst Lambda, that would be the Lambda Pro or 404, depending on which type of sound annoys you more.


----------



## Donnyhifi

Hi ALSO,
   
  Excellent choice with the 404LE, I recently picked up a pair as well and it sounds great. I also got my hands on a 007MKI(my favorite Stax) after months and months of searching
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Just buy all of them ALSO...nothing better than collecting some Stax gear....


 
  Yes, I have to agree.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

507 annoys me most. Btw does 307 and 507 use same diaphgram stax?


----------



## rubenpp

Would the 404LE be an improvement over the Lambda Nova Signature?  I already have an LNS and thinking of getting 404LE if its worth it =) TIA


----------



## padam

Improvement is a relative term. In some ways such as deep bass it might be somewhat better but it might also sound brighter, thus a bit less natural.

 What I would recommend you is to get the leather earpads for the Nova Sig instead (even if it does not match the colour of the rest).


----------



## pkshan

Naotake Hayashi,founder of stax, and his son Takeshi Hayashi,
  they made best Lambdas.(pre 1995), buy as many as you can 
   
  the current stax, while they are still amazing
  their tonality,timbre are not as good as the old stuffs


----------



## rubenpp

Thank you Padam and Pkshan.


----------



## Boerd

Question on Stax cans - if the membrane fails, how difficult is it to replace it (on a 009 for example)? Just trying to figure out maintenance (and if I should get into Stax).


----------



## padam

It need to be serviced by the factory and it is going to be a very pricey repair, if it is a discontinued model they will replace it with the equivalent current part (so it won't sound the same).
   
  That said, unless one does silly things with it (like over-driving a headphone with an adapter, especially if it is Normal bias and not Pro, pour water dust etc. over it...)  they do last a whole lot longer than an average dynamic headphone, you only need to replace the earpads.
  My ~30-year-old Lambdas are still going strong.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> the current stax, while they are still amazing
> their tonality,timbre are not as good as the old stuffs


 
  +1
   
  I'll have a beer to this one


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





kkqewl said:


> Hi,
> 
> I recently purchased an older T1  "B series" that was labeled as 100 volt "Japan only "  .But it had the switch inside, actuually i'ts located on the underside of the circuit board. Just remove the outer cover and then the lower base plate and you should see the switch.
> It's actually a plug in style connector that you can move to the appropriate setting for 117 / 120v operation.
> ...


 
  Cool, I will be sure to check, but am content either way--


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've never seen a T1 without a switch and I've owned at least 30 of them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks much, Spritzer, picked up the T1 and 404LE, and thanks for the offer.  I'll let you know what I find inside, and in general my reactions to both.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Would the 404LE be an improvement over the Lambda Nova Signature?  I already have an LNS and thinking of getting 404LE if its worth it =) TIA


 

 The 404LE was more mid-forward than my LNS pair, which may have had thicker pads than original. I preferred the LNS in the end. The newer models seemed to have less of the bad-seal-uncontrolled-bass effect though, though I haven't tried the latest Lambdas.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Naotake Hayashi,founder of stax, and his son Takeshi Hayashi,
> they made best Lambdas.(pre 1995), buy as many as you can
> 
> the current stax, while they are still amazing
> their tonality,timbre are not as good as the old stuffs


 
  How is the sound better, as best you can put this into words. I had the Lambda Nova in 1998 with a T1W amp.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The 404LE was more mid-forward than my LNS pair, which may have had thicker pads than original. I preferred the LNS in the end. The newer models seemed to have less of the bad-seal-uncontrolled-bass effect though, though I haven't tried the latest Lambdas.


 
  Thank you Currawong =)


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> How is the sound better, as best you can put this into words. I had the Lambda Nova in 1998 with a T1W amp.


 
  lambda nova was introduced in 1994, it's one of the best lambda


----------



## pkshan

In long term listening, I found the 507 sound image is unstable & compressed(lean),
  the highs & basses are a little noisy(too punchy).
  these things keep me away from music
   
  (507 is still way better than hd800 imo, their bleach-like sound is driving me mad)


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> (507 is still way better than hd800 imo, their bleach-like sound is driving me mad)


 
  A visit to an audiologist may be indicated......


----------



## spaceace1014

Question:
How much sound do the SR-003 mkII's radiate?


----------



## Operakid

Can my 100v Stax SRM-006ts be easily changed to 120v?  I'm tired of  always having to have the converter on hand. 
   
  I'm hoping there are jumpers that can be resoldered.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## drp

Quote: 





spaceace1014 said:


> Question:
> How much sound do the SR-003 mkII's radiate?


 
   
  Very little if any, unless they are really cranked up; even then, much less than other open headphones.
   
  It's one of the reasons I use the 003 at the office; can hear phone, co-workers walking in, etc. but can listen at higher volumes when desired.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





operakid said:


> Can my 100v Stax SRM-006ts be easily changed to 120v?  I'm tired of  always having to have the converter on hand.
> 
> I'm hoping there are jumpers that can be resoldered.
> 
> Thanks.


 
   
  Take a picture of the transformer and the area around it and I can give you a definite answer.  Stax make it more difficult on the newer models but it is still possible to change it.


----------



## spaceace1014

drp said:


> Very little if any, unless they are really cranked up; even then, much less than other open headphones.
> 
> It's one of the reasons I use the 003 at the office; can hear phone, co-workers walking in, etc. but can listen at higher volumes when desired.




Perfect. That's the issue. I think my lambdas are great in fact they're so good that my other headphones just sound boring and lifeless in comparison but they radiate sound strongly even compared to HD650's so office useage isn't exactly polite. Thanks!


----------



## MorbidToaster

Little late but the 404LE is the only other stat can I've heard that I liked (other than the 009).
   
  I'd actually really like to own one later this year as my main cans now that I've moved to speakers for the most part.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> Thanks.  Am looking through threads for impressions on the sound differences between 404LE and 507.  Seems to be trending toward 404LE, for significantly less than a new pair of 507s, although I don't know what kind of shape the used pair are in, other than the seller's claim that it's in good shape.  But it's Audio Union, and they tend to be reliable.


----------



## ALSO

I wanted to post an update and reiterate my gratitude to everyone for their generous advice.  The T1 arrived yesterday, and looks very clean on the outside.  I picked up a cable while waiting for the 404LE, which arrived today.  Also looks immaculate.  I put them into action at once and my jaw-dropped: it's like being reborn with new senses.  I am stunned.  And I've not even set up a DAC yet, going straight from the MBP, but I love this sound, I can feel the electrostats running through me. Can't see going back to anything else.  Am running through a few test songs, Amy Winehouse "Our Day Will Come," Bishop Allen "Butterfly Nets," and David Bowie, "Can You Hear Me?"--will be here as long as I can, but am really thrilled.  Again, all my gratitude for the swift responses that allowed me to move fast, making phone calls to and from work, and even to STAX directly.


----------



## jjinh

I still remember when I first heard a pair of Stax headphones. Enjoy your music!


----------



## rubenpp

Congrats!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wink said:


> A visit to an audiologist may be indicated......


 
  +1.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> I wanted to post an update and reiterate my gratitude to everyone for their generous advice.  The T1 arrived yesterday, and looks very clean on the outside.  I picked up a cable while waiting for the 404LE, which arrived today.  Also looks immaculate.  I put them into action at once and my jaw-dropped: it's like being reborn with new senses.  I am stunned.  And I've not even set up a DAC yet, going straight from the MBP, but I love this sound, I can feel the electrostats running through me. Can't see going back to anything else.  Am running through a few test songs, Amy Winehouse "Our Day Will Come," Bishop Allen "Butterfly Nets," and David Bowie, "Can You Hear Me?"--will be here as long as I can, but am really thrilled.  Again, all my gratitude for the swift responses that allowed me to move fast, making phone calls to and from work, and even to STAX directly.


 
   
  What's even funny is that your T1 + 404 is night and day difference better than your other can's.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





defqon said:


> +1.
> 
> 
> What's even funny is that your T1 + 404 is night and day difference better than your other can's.


 
  Thanks for pointing this out, DefQon ... you are right.
   
  I am really new to this, and still at the bottom end of the learning curve.  Most of my gear was assembled recently, and with store credit and gift certificates, so I've not wasted too much in getting to this point.  But the STAX sound was haunting me, and I'm glad I found my way to this thread.  It's a game-changer.
   
  I'm planning to stay put, although I would still like to add a dedicated DAC for the 404LE +T1.  Any suggestions?
   
  I'll put my phones into rotation and see which ones I can shed.  I'd also like to add some more STAX phones into the mix for variety as I work my way up.  I can listen to the ones out now in Tokyo, and will check in for advice if any come up used.  The quality of used goods seems pretty high in Tokyo, and both purchases from Audio Union came up strong.


----------



## ALSO

Am hearing what people have referred to as the forward sound of the 404LE, as well as the bright treble, but to my ears these are hardly flaws but essential to the make up of the sound.  After starting with some female vocals, am working my way through Miles Davis and John Coltrane, on my way to a longer audition with various classical pieces.  But the sound is exquisite.  Can't quite compare it to anything so far in my albeit limited experience.


----------



## ALSO

(Question to STAX owners: how do you find time to do anything else?)


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





also said:


> (Question to STAX owners: how do you find time to do anything else?)


 
   
  Congrats on the rig. My everything else is sitting here working and listening with my audio rack behind me.
   
  For DAC recommendations, how much can you afford? If you don't want to go TOO crazy: Metrum Octave + Audio-gd Digital Interface (as the built-in optical input in the Octave is rubbish) + a 75 Ohm S/PDIF cable. That's getting to around the same cost as your Stax rig itself but will be a good match IMO.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





also said:


> (Question to STAX owners: how do you find time to do anything else?)


 

 The threat of tinnitus always kept me at bay


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Congrats on the rig. My everything else is sitting here working and listening with my audio rack behind me.
> 
> For DAC recommendations, how much can you afford? If you don't want to go TOO crazy: Metrum Octave + Audio-gd Digital Interface (as the built-in optical input in the Octave is rubbish) + a 75 Ohm S/PDIF cable. That's getting to around the same cost as your Stax rig itself but will be a good match IMO.


 
  Thank you Currawong.  At this point, I am starting feel that I've found a comfort zone, and if so, am ready to start shedding unused gear to move upward and forward.  I'm not familiar with any of the stuff you mention, but am already looking up the items you mention, so thank you.  The difference in quality I've experienced today is unparalleled, so it all seems sensible.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> The threat of tinnitus always kept me at bay


 
  Right, but if you have to go, there are worse ways, I suppose.


----------



## Michgelsen

I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your new system!


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your new system!


 
  Thank you Michgelsen, am truly indebted.  Working my way through everything, at this moment Tony Bennett, making me feel like I'm a character in _Goodfellas_.


----------



## autoteleology

I'm so in love with my SR-303. My upgrade-itis has been totally killed. I honestly couldn't imagine ever upgrading unless it was for a Sigma Pro (something I've always wanted to hear) or an SR-009/Orpheus.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your new system!


 
  +1
   
  Let us know when you'll be selling those HD700's.


----------



## ALSO

Dear Advisors,
   
  I am sorry to come back seeking more advice so soon after benefitting from the collective wisdom of this thread, and I hope I am not wearing out my welcome.
   
  But, since listening to the 404LE/T1, I can't imagine going back to much of my gear, and hate the thought of it languishing unused.  It's all pretty new and in good shape.  I think I will hold onto the HD700/HP-A7 a bit longer, since I like it for classical music, but the others will start collecting dust.
   
  Just out of curiosity, I contacted a retailer in Tokyo, which has decent prices on STAX equipment, and listed some of my available gear.  For my HE-400, HD600, and B&W p3, along with my FiiO E17 and Bose IE2, they will offer me about US$550 store credit.  I'd be losing a fair amount on the original purchase prices, but for an additional US$130, I could exchange my gear for a new SR-507.
   
  I know that opinions are split on the SQ of the 507, but I am eager to compare, and I did inquire initially about the 007, but can't afford it.  So my two questions are:
   
  1) Is it worth trading in this gear at a loss to acquire a 507, which would get much more use than the above items; and
  2) Does it make sense to add the 507 to the 404LE?
   
  If I do swing this trade, I'd unload a lot of gear at once that won't be used much, and I could focus on a good DAC for the STAX system.  I'd then sit put for awhile, enjoy my music, and leave you guys alone to do the same.
   
  Thank you in advance for your thoughts.


----------



## MorbidToaster

I really think you'd be better off finding someone that would take that stuff on trade for a DAC. You're really missing out on what those 404s are capable of. As for the 507...just...no. 
   
  Again, the 404LE is my favorite Stax can other than the 009. You've got a winner there already.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> Dear Advisors,
> 
> I am sorry to come back seeking more advice so soon after benefitting from the collective wisdom of this thread, and I hope I am not wearing out my welcome.
> 
> ...


----------



## ALSO

Thank you for your candid thought. What if I trade for a good DAC?

The deal is not bad if you consider that the 507 is over US$1,000 outside Japan.


----------



## n3rdling

Wouldn't you get more money for those by selling them in the FS section here?  If you want something different later on, just save up for a 007 or Sigma.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Wouldn't you get more money for those by selling them in the FS section here?  If you want something different later on, just save up for a 007 or Sigma.


 

 +1, I would go this way.


----------



## spaceace1014

also said:


> Dear Advisors,
> 
> 1) Is it worth trading in this gear at a loss to acquire a 507, which would get much more use than the above items; and
> 2) Does it make sense to add the 507 to the 404LE?
> ...




A quck bit of math tells me they're offering you 44% of the original purchase price on your stuff. I'd happily buy your He400's right now for $177 just to try them out... You can do better but it depends on what your time is worth to you and you may have a little trouble unloading the B&W and Bose sets here so keep that mind. I have the 507s and they're great. My 650s have been collecting dust for a couple weeks now. Have fun.


----------



## gilency

Yeah, I usually take my time buying and/or selling. If you are not patient, you'll end up losing money.


----------



## ALSO

Still mulling my options, and going back and forth.  On the one hand shedding gear that's unlikely to get much use is appealing, but on the other am not convinced that adding a 507 is the best use of that credit.  Will try to get to a shop to listen again.  As spaceace points out, I'm getting about US$550 for approximately US$1,200 worth of gear.  But I just figured out that I've spent about US$800 for it, so the deal isn't so bad, and being able to exchange a bunch of stuff for a new headset in one transaction is also appealing.
   
  Another option is to trade for a DAC.  Any thoughts on the Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus as a DAC for 404LE/T1?  I see the store has one for about the same price as a 507.


----------



## ri_toast

must be quite a temptation living close to retail stores that have Stax gear in stock. You only had the 404s for a day maybe? Every time I get the itch for more Stax, a Lambda framed model, the differences would probably be infinitesimal. Not to say that they were the same, just more alike than different. 7s or 9s might be a better direction. That's me though, I admire your enthusiasm.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Don't get Dacmagic. it's terrible..


----------



## idruke

I am interested in the new portable stax. The Stax srm-002. Does anyone know a release date for those? I have seen pics on this thread of the 001 with custom molds. How would I go about getting custom molds for them? I have never gotten custom molds before so I have no clue.
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





idruke said:


> I am interested in the new portable stax. The Stax srm-002. Does anyone know a release date for those? I have seen pics on this thread of the 001 with custom molds. How would I go about getting custom molds for them? I have never gotten custom molds before so I have no clue.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 
   
  I believe that they are already available. HeadAmp sells them.
   
  http://www.headamp.com/
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/631894/stax-sr-002-srm-002-and-srm-003-mk2-srm-003-impression-and-appreciation-thread


----------



## e19650826

hmm never posted in this thread.. 
  just want to say.. it's so hard to save up enough money for a good pair of stax when all the projects are constantly draining my fund...


----------



## DefQon

@ALSO: If I were you personally I'd sell all the gear that you currently own except the newly acquired 404 and T1 amp. Sell everything else off and get a used or ex demo (or cheap in other words) 007's which do classical earth and moon difference better than the HD700's.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





defqon said:


> @ALSO: If I were you personally I'd sell all the gear that you currently own except the newly acquired 404 and T1 amp. Sell everything else off and get a used or ex demo (or cheap in other words) 007's which do classical earth and moon difference better than the HD700's.


 
  Interesting thought DefQon, thanks for the suggestion. The idea had crossed my mind.  If I threw in the HD700 and A7 amp, I could probably get a clean swap for a new set of 007s, since in Tokyo they are retailing for about US$1,700.  But I'm not sure I can dump everything just yet.  I think I'll sit tight, and enjoy what I've got now, and as many others have suggested, I'll shed slowly.  I can be patient and save for the next set.  I'll see what gets any use over the time I'm still in Tokyo, have still got about 5 months here, and come back regularly.  I'll focus on a decent DAC.  Please let me know if you have suggestions, and thanks again.


----------



## grokit

So is it still consensus that the current 007 MK II is bested by the previous 007 MK II, which in turn is bested by the 007 MK I? Or is opinion evolving?


----------



## MorbidToaster

That was the general conclusion I came to from reading, but I've only heard the mk1...which I wasn't impressed by. If the others are worse I can scratch them off the list...
   
  Shame...it's a gorgeous headphone.
   
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> So is it still consensus that the current 007 MK II is bested by the previous 007 MK II, which in turn is bested by the 007 MK I? Or is opinion evolving?


----------



## arnaud

I personnaly much prefer my (early) mk1 than previous mk2(SZ3, which would make it the 2.5) for its smooth signature and clean lows, esp. as a complement to my 009. From my amp (727A), it does sound anemic and compressed though (the mk2 sounded quite a bit more lively), but I suspect the bhse will clear that up.
   
  @ALSO: wait for the next local meet (we will plan something for sure), you'll get to hear all sorts of stax gear and compare against your current setup. Running too fast uphill is going to spoil the fun . As for the 507, I don't see the point since you already own the lambda. Used 007mk2 go for about 120,000JPY, just be a little patient...


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> @ALSO: wait for the next local meet (we will plan something for sure), you'll get to hear all sorts of stax gear and compare against your current setup. Running too fast uphill is going to spoil the fun . As for the 507, I don't see the point since you already own the lambda. Used 007mk2 go for about 120,000JPY, just be a little patient...


 
  Thank you arnaud, much calmer now and comfortable with present state.  You first alerted me to the used T1 on sale here, so thank you especially.  It allowed me to purchase the T1 and 404LE rapidly and for good prices, so I am grateful.
   
  I did have one technical question, and apologize again if this is too remedial and covered earlier, but is it possible to use just the DAC of a DAC/amp with the T1?  Would this double-amping interfere with or damage the T1?  I have a Fostex DAC/amp, and could run the source through it before the T1, but am not sure if this is feasible.
   
  Thanks again, and looking forward to the TKO meet.


----------



## johnwmclean

morbidtoaster said:


> That was the general conclusion I came to from reading, but I've only heard the mk1...which I wasn't impressed by. If the others are worse I can scratch them off the list...
> 
> Shame...it's a gorgeous headphone.




In my experience the 007 MK1 disappoints without the right amp, and tends to underwhelm under meet conditions, comparative with the current crop of brighter orientated phones.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Right, which is why I'd love to hear one again...I'm less interested now that I've jumped down in the headphone game, but I'd really like to give them a fair shake again.
   
  Quote: 





johnwmclean said:


> In my experience the 007 MK1 disappoints without the right amp, and tends to underwhelm under meet conditions, comparative with the current crop of brighter orientated phones.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> I believe that they are already available. HeadAmp sells them.
> 
> http://www.headamp.com/
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/631894/stax-sr-002-srm-002-and-srm-003-mk2-srm-003-impression-and-appreciation-thread


 
   
  i'm going to start looking into the custom tips again tomorrow, see if i can find a provider for them


----------



## milosz

ELECTROSTATICA HAS  SPOILED ME!!!!
   
  I've been listening to my Lambda Signatures / SR-007 MK I's / Koss ESP-950's  for quite a while and decided to switch some gear around, for variety; I changed my setup over to a pair of 600 ohm Beyer DT-880's, a well-regarded dynamic (thought not flagship) headphone on a Bottlehead Crack / Speedball amp set up with good vintage tubes and film output caps,  and the same  DAC I'd been using with the electrostatic setup and...well... I missed the transparency and hear-through quality of the electrostatic headphones _immediately. _
   
  I used to really like these Beyer phones, though they are the least expensive ones I own; they are extremely comfortable and I used to enjoy them quite a bit.....they are a very good 'phone for the money, but now I am so spoiled.... DAMN!
   
  It's not that they sound bad...it's just that they're not giving me what I've come to expect....


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





milosz said:


> ELECTROSTATICA HAS  SPOILED ME!!!!
> 
> I've been listening to my Lambda Signatures / SR-007 MK I's / Koss ESP-950's  for quite a while and decided to switch some gear around, for variety; I changed my setup over to a pair of 600 ohm Beyer DT-880's, a well-regarded dynamic (thought not flagship) headphone on a Bottlehead Crack / Speedball amp set up with good vintage tubes and film output caps,  and the same  DAC I'd been using with the electrostatic setup and...well... I missed the transparency and hear-through quality of the electrostatic headphones _immediately. _
> 
> ...


 

 Not all dynamics are bad. You should try the TH900


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Do u guys know how to remove the earpads on 009 ? And how warm should the Soldering iron be for recabling the 009's ?..
   
   
  Im just trying to join the Stax mafia here


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> Do u guys know how to remove the earpads on 009 ? And how warm should the Soldering iron be for recabling the 009's ?..
> 
> 
> Im just trying to join the Stax mafia here


 
   
  I haven't seen any better coverage of the topic than this, good luck you fool (kidding  ): http://www.head-fi.org/t/609792/ants-in-my-stax-should-i-worry/30#post_8419063


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

I've seen those photos before. but about removing the earpads is it just to rotate the earpad ?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Not all dynamics are bad. You should try the TH900


 
  That's a really bad suggestion for someone look for Stax transparency and speed...


----------



## idruke

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> i'm going to start looking into the custom tips again tomorrow, see if i can find a provider for them


 
  I am also interested in doing this. Where should I look for a provider of custom tips?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> I've seen those photos before. but about removing the earpads is it just to rotate the earpad ?


 
   
  Go under the earpads with your fingers and pull out the fabric screen.  Then you can see the screws which hold the earpad in place.


----------



## Michgelsen

Depends whether it has a line output. I don't know if it does. I would not use a dynamic headphone output to drive the T1, though you could probably safely do so if you wanted to. You're not likely to damage the T1. Stax amps can take max 30 V on their inputs, according to the specs on stax.co.jp, and this is a lot. Line outputs usually output 2 V.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> Thank you arnaud, much calmer now and comfortable with present state.  You first alerted me to the used T1 on sale here, so thank you especially.  It allowed me to purchase the T1 and 404LE rapidly and for good prices, so I am grateful.
> 
> I did have one technical question, and apologize again if this is too remedial and covered earlier, but is it possible to use just the DAC of a DAC/amp with the T1?  Would this double-amping interfere with or damage the T1?  I have a Fostex DAC/amp, and could run the source through it before the T1, but am not sure if this is feasible.
> 
> Thanks again, and looking forward to the TKO meet.


----------



## DefQon

If any of you could help me with my latest craze of collecting more Stax stuff. Let's get in contact:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/652966/wtb-looking-for-the-following-stax-stuff


----------



## autoteleology

I almost considered it.
   
  I -might- be interested in selling my SR-202 and 303 pads.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I almost considered it.
> 
> I -might- be interested in selling my SR-202 and 303 pads.


 
  Start collecting like I am doing now.


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Depends whether it has a line output. I don't know if it does. I would not use a dynamic headphone output to drive the T1, though you could probably safely do so if you wanted to. You're not likely to damage the T1. Stax amps can take max 30 V on their inputs, according to the specs on stax.co.jp, and this is a lot. Line outputs usually output 2 V.


 
  The DAC/amp has stereo lines out; I don't want to mess up the sound, but wondering if I could use the DAC from my Fostex to improve the STAX.


----------



## Michgelsen

Just try it. It's likely better than the analog output of a laptop, which is what you're using now, right?


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Just try it. It's likely better than the analog output of a laptop, which is what you're using now, right?


 
  Right.  I'll give it a shot, while looking for an appropriate DAC; thanks Michgelsen.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Not all dynamics are bad. You should try the TH900


 
  I have a pair of Sennheiser HD800's, Denon AH-D7000's and also Audeze LCD2's and HiFiman HE-6's, in addition to the Beyer DT880's I was whining about.
   
  They all have their strengths, especially with the right amp.
   
  And I never said dynamic headphones were _bad_.... it's just that they're not as good in most ways as electrostatics.


----------



## thinker

-


----------



## wink

^       Good thinking, thinker....


----------



## TheAttorney

Yes, a deserved 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for this one.
   
  However, I'm not so sure about having all those tubes inside a fairly tightly packed enclosure, or having all the 'phone sockets round the back. But apart from that, I look forward to the impressions...


----------



## ALSO

Does anyone have experience with the Luxman DA-100 DAC used with STAX systems?  Is this far too low grade a DAC?


----------



## forbigger

no such thing is as low grade dac. a system that cost 10k does not automatically warrant 10k source. the magic word here is SYNERGY. I use bhse/009 and I have MSRP 6k transport/dac but finally I settle with a humbly 1.4k DAC. This 1.4k DAC blows the 6k transport/dac outta water (which now i only use its transport section)......I've tried a DAC that cost 6k, but it doesnt synergize with my system and sounded too clinical.
   
  Previously I paired my KGSS / 007 with Stello DA100, guess how much is Stello DA100? MSRP$750.
   
  I've read people paired their KGSS even BHSE with Pico DAC which is only $350 and loving it. So if you already owned the Luxman (which deserve a honorable mention in the high end audio circle), go ahead and try it. If you don't own it yet then audition it. Just remember, its all about synergy


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Yeah.. knowledge in this hobby is the most important thing. The best would be DIY stuff. As most components in commercial amps and dacs sounds way too RAW.


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *ALSO* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Luxman DA-100 DAC used with STAX systems?  *Is this far too low grade a DAC?*


 
   
  If it's worth anything, I think my KGSSHV>modded 007A sounds great even from an iPhone.


----------



## Bookbear

I would think so.  I know it does very well with my 407's.   Sorry, forgot the quote.


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Would the Stax SR323s amp be able to drive the Stax 507 well?


 

 I would think so... I know it does very well with my 407's.


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





yuceka said:


> Can I get some more input about SRM-1/ MK 2 versus SRM-313 vs. SRM 323s ?


 

 I have and like both.... but:  the SRM-1/MkII is a bit more veiled (recessed)... perhaps the best words would be 'less detailed'.  More so with the original Lambdas, a bit less with the newer 407's (not 404's!).  The 323s is a step up, wider soundstage and more open sounding to my ears, more noticeable with the 407's than with the original Lambda's.  It's not harsh, at least to my ears... just more 'there'.  That said, the SRM-1 is a_ very good_ sounding amp.  I read (but haven't personally experienced) that the SRM-1 does better with the 009's, which leads me to believe that the 009's might be tiled more towards the treble end.  As I said, I haven't personally experienced the 009's.  A lot would depend on which earspeakers you were using.


----------



## eke2k6

I've owned the 009, along with the BHSE for quite some time now.
   
  At first, I literally could not believe what I was hearing. I mean, how much detail could you possibly extract from a recording? Not only that, the effortlessness of the presentation nearly shorted out every neuron in my brain. 
   
  After a while I started to take this for granted, and I started looking for ways to "improve" on this. I've spent a semester's worth of tuition on every kind of "rolling" there is. Eventually, I got back into the headphone game to try to find something that could surpass what I was hearing from my first combo. Needless to say, I failed. My more realistic objective was to find something that could at least equal the 009/BHSE combo. Again, I failed...until....
   
  After months of reading every audio forum I could think of, buying and selling, and plenty of frustration, I stumbled on this thread in a forum where the OP was comparing his brand new acquisition to his tenured SR-009. He painstakingly compared every last bit of sound, eventually coming to the conclusion that this new purchase of his rivaled, if not beat, his 009 in so many ways.
   
  I didn't even hesitate to purchase this headphone, hoping that my days of searching would be over.
   
  The headphone arrived yesterday, and it's even better than I could have dreamed of. Imagine the effortlessness of the 009, combined with the soundstage of a speaker system. When I listen to it, I'm mostly reminded of my dad's Grande Utopia EM paired loudspeakers. Going from the 009 to this new headphone was like the first time I heard the 009, after spending a year with the Sennheiser HD600.
   
  Ladies and gents, without any further ado I present to you the headphone that as taken me a year to discover, but has brought me immense joy again through audio:
   
*SPREAD THE WORD (click)*


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> If it's worth anything, I think my KGSSHV>modded 007A sounds great even from an iPhone.


 
  Thank you for the responses; I picked up some AT audio cables and am running the STAX through my Fostex A7 DAC--the sound is better, and probably could be improved much more, but for the time being, I'm happy to be able to improve the sound with stuff I've got already, so thank you--


----------



## Overkill Red

Oh god, how did Andy get out of the Member's Lounge


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> Do u guys know how to remove the earpads on 009 ? And how warm should the Soldering iron be for recabling the 009's ?..
> 
> 
> Im just trying to join the Stax mafia here


 
   
  I may have missed, but why are you trying to re-cable the 009s?
   
  Quote: 





thinker said:


> I will soon(4weeks) get this amp and test it with Stax Omega II mk1 and Stax Lambda pro and i will test it also with Sennheiser HD-800
> Not sure but i heard that you can order it also with the new Jecklin Float QA connections
> 
> High voltage 800V for Stax
> 12W for other phones


 
   
  Interesting. Pity all the headphone jacks are at the back. That would be highly annoying to deal with.
   
  Quote: 





also said:


> Does anyone have experience with the Luxman DA-100 DAC used with STAX systems?  Is this far too low grade a DAC?


 
   
  As much as I love Luxman, I think they totally lost the plot with the DA-100 and DA-200. Two of the worst-sounding DACs I've ever tried. I honestly think that the only thing they do is make their D-0X SACD/DAC range sound good (and I don't like those either).
   
  Quote: 





eke2k6 said:


> [...]


 
   
  Is it April 1st already?


----------



## Nemeske88

@eke2k6
   

   
   
   



thinker said:


> I will soon(4weeks) get this amp and test it with Stax Omega II mk1 and Stax Lambda pro and i will test it also with Sennheiser HD-800
> Not sure but i heard that you can order it also with the new Jecklin Float QA connections
> 
> High voltage 800V for Stax
> 12W for other phones


 
   
  As for the opticals it looks interesting, but this one requires at least an extension cable to make the listening possible without giving it a kiss. By the way, what's with the switching-psu stuff?
              ▼              ▼                ▼


----------



## wink

eke2k6, if it wasn't for the fact that we are (semi-)  civilised you would be taken out the back and :-


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Nemeske88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> As for the opticals it looks interesting, but this one requires at least an extension cable to make the listening possible without giving it a kiss. By the way, what's with the switching-psu stuff?
> ▼              ▼                ▼


 
   
  No way to cram a linear PSU in a chassis this small.  I do wonder how they tackled the output tube heaters though.  One supply for everything would be bad, very bad...


----------



## PretentiousFood

Quote: 





>


 
   
  Hey, does anyone know where to get those Neutrik Stax jacks? I'm building an amp with a very thick front panel, and those look like they'd be easier to work with than the teflon jacks.
  Is it even safe to use that Neutrik jack for Stax? It looks like the metal panel could easily short the pins if the anodizing gets scratched.


----------



## thinker

-


----------



## gilency

Yeah, the Jecklins are back.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pretentiousfood said:


> Hey, does anyone know where to get those Neutrik Stax jacks? I'm building an amp with a very thick front panel, and those look like they'd be easier to work with than the teflon jacks.
> Is it even safe to use that Neutrik jack for Stax? It looks like the metal panel could easily short the pins if the anodizing gets scratched.


 
   
  They are probably custom made but who knows how they are constructed.


----------



## justin w.

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They are probably custom made but who knows how they are constructed.


 
   
  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=880821&is=REG&Q=&A=details
   
  it's a blank plate and then the holes are added.  i would guess that behind it are pins mounted onto a circuit board, and the plate is just a cover.  could work fine but it's mystery plastic from China and the high voltage specifications for it are not published.


----------



## DefQon

Can we seriously stop quoting eke2k6's long post? kthnxbai


----------



## bearFNF

^^^ ditto


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> As for the opticals it looks interesting, but this one requires at least an extension cable to make the listening possible without giving it a kiss.


 
  Truly.  Unless you are sitting right up next to it, and it's out on a table top, this would be a perpetual pain.  It's the niggling little things that slowly destroy one ability to enjoy a piece of equipment.  BTW, how hot does this get?  If the cable/extension is routed under the unit to the front, or over the top to the front....  you see where this is going. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Routing to either the left or right side will further shorten the headphone cable.


----------



## wink

Does this mean that MalValve is malware?


----------



## coredump

Has it ever been determined if the 207 and 307 use the same driver?


----------



## thinker

-


----------



## thinker

-


----------



## Nebby

Yeah, that tells you what the plate should be made of, but Justin is still correct when he says there's no HV specs for the plate.
  Quote: 





thinker said:


> Print View
> 
> Close Window  *RoHS Compliant*
> Environmental Laws restrict the use of certain hazardous substances. “RoHS: Compliant” addresses the laws transposed from the European Union directive 2002/95/EC known as the RoHS Directive.
> ...


----------



## PretentiousFood

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=880821&is=REG&Q=&A=details
> 
> it's a blank plate and then the holes are added.  i would guess that behind it are pins mounted onto a circuit board, and the plate is just a cover.  could work fine but it's mystery plastic from China and the high voltage specifications for it are not published.


 
   
   
  Thanks a lot for the help guys! Guess I'll be sticking with teflon and do some creative milling on the front plate.


----------



## spritzer

I just love the idea of using just any plastic for a high voltage connector.  Almost as stupid as using anything died black for high voltage.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I just love the idea of using just any plastic for a high voltage connector.  Almost as stupid as using anything died black for high voltage.


 

 +1


----------



## singh

how long does kuboten take to ship item ??
   
  my sr404 ltd is t their storage and i have paid form the shipping to my country also ( after i got the quote for it ) ....but after they just stopped replying to my mails. its been 8 days already.
  am worried sick, i ordered from them cause i read here they were reliable.


----------



## ultrabike

Quote: 





nebby said:


> Yeah, that tells you what the plate should be made of, but Justin is still correct when he says there's no HV specs for the plate.


 
   
  Not sure if this is useful:
   
  From http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/645/1351.pdf
   
  The part belongs to the Speakon® SPX series with the following generic specs:
   
  Specifications:
 • Rated Current/Contact: 40A rms continuous, 50 A audiosignal, duty cycle 50%
  • Dielectric Strength: 4kV peak • Rated Voltage: 250VAC
  • Temperature Range: -30°C to +80°C
  • Max. Wire Size: 10AWG/5mm
  • Cable O.D. Range: 6mm-14mm
   
  Materials:
 • Contacts: Brass
  • Locking Element: Zinc Diecast
  • Housing/Insert: PBTP 20% GR
  • Bushing: Polyamide PA 6 15% GR
  • Chuck: Polyacetal POM


----------



## Nebby

Quote: 





ultrabike said:


> Not sure if this is useful:
> 
> From http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/645/1351.pdf
> 
> ...


 
   
  Not applicable. Those are actual connectors, whereas the specs that matter are for the material that is being used as a cover. Neutrik doesn't provide that since it's not designed as a HV interface material.
   
   


spritzer said:


> I just love the idea of using just any plastic for a high voltage connector.  Almost as stupid as using anything died black for high voltage.


 

   
   
  I guess it makes as much sense as having a headphone amp where the headphone connectors are on the back


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nebby said:


> I guess it makes as much sense as having a headphone amp where the headphone connectors are on the back


 
  What's wrong with that? They are not the only manufacturer to do this. But it's most likely due to so many things cramped into such a small enclosure with no headroom at the front.


----------



## Nebby

What other amps do that? To me it doesn't seem ergonomic.at all.


----------



## coredump

Quote: 





singh said:


> how long does kuboten take to ship item ??
> 
> my sr404 ltd is t their storage and i have paid form the shipping to my country also ( after i got the quote for it ) ....but after they just stopped replying to my mails. its been 8 days already.
> am worried sick, i ordered from them cause i read here they were reliable.


 
  Wow.  That site doesn't translate well.  So Kuboten is just the auction site right?  Who did you actually purchase from?


----------



## thinker

-


>


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> What's wrong with that? They are not the only manufacturer to do this. But it's most likely due to so many things cramped into such a small enclosure with no headroom at the front.


 
   
  imvho it's extremely annoying and inconvenient unless you only use upto 2 pairs of headphones and leave them plugged in
    
  Quote:


coredump said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  @singh: Considering my experience with Craig/kuboten, he'd usually answer my emails very quickly, frequently within the hour. BUT there were times when he was busy. Overall I found him reliable (i.e. didnt run away with my goods and money)
   
  @coredump: if you google you'd discover kuboten acts as a proxy for buying items on yahoo auctions japan


----------



## gilency

.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





thinker said:


> I have done lot of DIY with tube sockets and Stax inlets
> The original Stax Pro inlet owns the best sound grab it if you find it somewhere
> Teflon sounds airy and little bit thin in the upper frequencies not the best sound with SR- 009 in worst case a horror scenario but Omega mk2 get the most benefit from it.
> If you use teflon you should dampen it to dead from the chassis
> ...


 
  LOL


----------



## thinker

>


----------



## Lil' Knight

Time to roll Stax sockets to tune your sound...


----------



## n3rdling

My goodness.


----------



## Nemeske88

Due to some abrasive comments had found at a forum on a site called "Head-Fi", Mal Valve closed down their manufacture in Deutchland. Mal Valve was famous producing their flagship headphone amplifier called the "Mal Valve ESHA".
  Analysts dates the insolvency back to the introduction of their cutting-edge design innovation, called "headphone-to-the-back technology[size=13.0pt]©[/size]"  that costy mishap practically demolished their cash-flow. Former spokesman of Mal Valve, Fritz Fritzl remember these times with only one single word: ’F@ck’.
  However, the company’s revival was successful under a new name, Mal Ware and with some modifications on the headphone amps design their revenue is now O.K.
   
The New Mal Ware ESHA v.2.0:


----------



## wink

Still a stupid layout.
   
  Inputs in the back
  Power in the back
  Outputs in the fromt
  Display in the front
  Controls in the front
   
  What's so hard about the layout?


----------



## AnakChan

wink said:


> Still a stupid layout.
> 
> Inputs in the back
> Power in the back
> ...



I was trying to find the volume knob...


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> I was trying to find the volume knob...


 
  Check the top, bottom and sides.
  May have a remote control with the detector in the display in the back.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





thinker said:


> I have done lot of DIY with tube sockets and Stax inlets
> The original Stax Pro inlet owns the best sound grab it if you find it somewhere
> Teflon sounds airy and little bit thin in the upper frequencies not the best sound with SR- 009 in worst case a horror scenario but Omega mk2 get the most benefit from it.
> If you use teflon you should dampen it to dead from the chassis
> ...


 
   
  There just aren't enough facepalm smileys on the whole intrablogweb.


----------



## MuppetFace

Who names their company "Mal Ware?" That's like calling your company "Junk Mail."


----------



## Nebby

Quote: 





thinker said:


> Burmester,Silvercore ,Mcintosh and some others if i can remember and i did also a custom made tube amp with the connection on the rear.If you connect the phones Staxes Audezes Sennheisers etc. all together on Malvalve there is only one connection in use .Each connection are operated separately from the front side switches or  remote control,there is no need to unplug any phone.


 
   
  I wasn't able to find the Mcintosh headphone amp, but the other brands seem to be primarily speaker preamps that just added a headphone jack to. They really don't look like a purpose built headphone amp which this Mal Ware (lol) amp is supposed to be. You say no need to unplug any phone but what if the owner has more than one of each type of headphone? It's a bad design in terms of ergonomics.
   
   



beefy said:


> There just aren't enough facepalm smileys on the whole intrablogweb.


 
   
  Nah, it's just another user that's trying to voice their opinion on how a random item happens to affect the sound...
   
   


> ...dummy Neutrik  could also be seen as good predampening solution


 
   
  My goodness, you're right.


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





>


 

Planned review of Malvalve Head amp three on Head-fi forum is cancelled


----------



## spritzer

But please, review the connector for us.  It's not every day we are showered with such epic wisdom as is the sound of various connectors... 
   
  Reminds me of some member here who claimed the whole Sony R-10 sound was down to how they built the TRS plug.  I want what ever those people are taking...


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> But please, review the connector for us.  It's not every day we are showered with such epic wisdom as is the sound of various connectors...
> 
> Reminds me of some member here who claimed the whole Sony R-10 sound was down to how they built the TRS plug.  I want what ever those people are taking...


 

 Hahahahah! If anyone studied even basic physics/electronics will understand that doing that will do absolutely nothing to the sound unless you're from a different planet with an ear drum the size of a football..


----------



## wink

Thinker posted:-
   
   
  Quote: 





> Planned review of Malvalve Head amp three on Head-fi forum is cancelled


 
  I hope he doesn't have second thoughts.....
   
   
  Quote: 





> Hahahahah! If anyone studied even basic physics/electronics will understand that doing that will do absolutely nothing to the sound unless you're from a different planet with an ear drum the size of a football..


 
  So, you calling the dude an alien and/or an elephant?
   
  He's allowed his opinion - even if it is wrong.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





wink said:


> So, you calling the dude an alien and/or an elephant?
> 
> He's allowed his opinion - even if it is wrong.


 
  No, but that it is simply unlikely or impossible. I don't know how big an elephants ear drum is though, but the fact that aliens amongst us are loving headphones is a possibility


----------



## DefQon

The past few post by a certain someone has turned this thread into one those "Not sure if serious" thread.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





singh said:


> how long does kuboten take to ship item ??
> 
> my sr404 ltd is t their storage and i have paid form the shipping to my country also ( after i got the quote for it ) ....but after they just stopped replying to my mails. its been 8 days already.
> am worried sick, i ordered from them cause i read here they were reliable.


 
   
  Sooo, is that 8 BUSINESS days, or is it more than likely 5 or 6 business days only, and for an International shipment - it's still too early.
  Give it another week or so - you'll be fine.


----------



## autoteleology

I noticed a problem today with my Stax SR-303. Whenever very low bass notes/tones play, I hear a very loud rattle unless I press the earspeakers against my head. It's so loud that I can hear it without placing the headphones fully on my head. What is going on?
   
  I am freaking out right now. My AKG K167 broke literally yesterday, I can't handle my only remaining headphone having obnoxious problems like this.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





singh said:


> how long does kuboten take to ship item ??


 
   
  Craig is one person.  Usually he's fairly prompt, but if something happens like one of his kids is in hospital then that tends to go out the window.


----------



## charliex

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> I was trying to find the volume knob...


 
   
  In all the confusion, they forgot to install a volume control - shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





charliex said:


> Sooo, is that 8 BUSINESS days, or is it more than likely 5 or 6 business days only, and for an International shipment - it's still too early.
> Give it another week or so - you'll be fine.


 
  its 8 Business days NOW.
   
  and am worried they have not even shipped the item ( or worse case lost it in their storage, or sent it to someone else).
   
  they have not given my the tracking nor any notification that it has been shipped. If they had i wouldnt be this worried. i have mailed them 5 times , no replies!
   
  This is how kubo ten works :
  1. you send a bid to them
  2. they bid on your behalf
  3. if you win they send you invoice for the item with local ( in japan ) shipping quote and their fee.
  4. you pay .
  5. item reaches their japan storage.
  6. if you wish it to be shipped to india you ask them for a quote for shipping
  7. they give you options for shipping
  8. you choose an option.
  9. they send you an invoice for the said option of shipping.
  10. you pay.
  11. they send the item to you .
   
   
  In my case am up to 10th point , just they have not shipped till date ( i paid on 19th feb)


----------



## singh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Craig is one person.  Usually he's fairly prompt, but if something happens like one of his kids is in hospital then that tends to go out the window.


 

 thanks for the reply. that helps. he must be busy. ( but i still get emails if i bid on another item through kuboten, is it system generated?  )
  i dont mind the delay if my HPs are safe.


----------



## Mark-sf

Not sure if this request is appropriate for this thread or not, but I recently acquired an SRD-X Portable Energizer (non-pro) that is not working. As I am a tech I would like to repair it and then find it a home. Does anyone know here I might find a schematic for it? I believe the bias supply is not working.


----------



## spritzer

Craig has been pretty busy lately as it's been two weeks since I asked him to ship.  I'm used to this by now though and your headphones are perfectly fine. 
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I noticed a problem today with my Stax SR-303. Whenever very low bass notes/tones play, I hear a very loud rattle unless I press the earspeakers against my head. It's so loud that I can hear it without placing the headphones fully on my head. What is going on?
> 
> I am freaking out right now. My AKG K167 broke literally yesterday, I can't handle my only remaining headphone having obnoxious problems like this.


 
   
  Look inside the earcup and see if the glue that holds the driver has dislodged.


----------



## singh

i just got a reply from them 
  
  yeah he said he has been busy.
   
  thanks for reply guys. as said before, i dint mind the delay , if i am updated with the proceedings. ( if not my mind just keeps thinking of some mishap )


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

got thä cable... will rewire 2morrow..


----------



## milosz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thinker*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


   I have found it best to forgo the application of any dampening solution to the Stax sockets of my T1.   Damp solutions and high voltage don't really mix all that well.
   
  However, I have found a way to prevent any vibration from having an impact (so to speak) on the sound of the socket, and that is to completely pot it in epoxy. I find that if I completely eliminate  the possibility of plugging any electrostatic headphones into the socket, then the socket can add absolutely no coloration to the sound....
   
  I also thought at first that old Stax sockets did sound muddy, but then I realized I was listening to_ HARD AGAIN_  ( CLICK HERE )
   
  I tried to do a double blind test on a variety of tube sockets, because that is really the only way to know for sure if the listener can actually hear differences between different socket types, but I couldn't get two blind listeners to cooperate with the test....perhaps they were die-hard subjectivists.


----------



## ri_toast

^ for a moment i thought you'd typed _too_ hard
   
  can i run 2 sets of earspeakers; pro and nb stax from an srm-1 mk2 at the same time?


----------



## Headzone

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I noticed a problem today with my Stax SR-303. Whenever very low bass notes/tones play, I hear a very loud rattle unless I press the earspeakers against my head. It's so loud that I can hear it without placing the headphones fully on my head. What is going on?
> 
> I am freaking out right now. My AKG K167 broke literally yesterday, I can't handle my only remaining headphone having obnoxious problems like this.


 

 Hope it won't turn into something expensive..


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> ^ for a moment i thought you'd typed _too_ hard
> 
> can i run 2 sets of earspeakers; pro and nb stax from an srm-1 mk2 at the same time?


 
   
  Yes.


----------



## autoteleology

> Look inside the earcup and see if the glue that holds the driver has dislodged.


 
   
  Looks like there's some hair and glue particles under the mesh grille. What do I do about that?
   
  EDIT: Fixed that, but there's still rattle. Took the pads off but the driver doesn't seem "loose" or anything...


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Yes.


 
  thanks, just wanted to make sure i wouldn't let the smoke out. <grin>
  the 407 is new and they're so close in sound i just want to see if i can pick them out "blind" . My feeling is that the 407's are slightly more resolving than the Lambda nb . running them simultaneously will help me decide if this is true


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





wink said:


> Thinker posted:-
> 
> 
> I hope he doesn't have second thoughts.....
> ...


 
*I got 4 emails after cancelling the review, people who are serious about headphones,one member who uses DIY*
 *polypropylene/epoxy/glass fiber composites and Yamamoto pins on Stax sockets to get the best sound out of Staxes! a guy who lives in Russia* *Second email from a member of a headphone club in Europe who have already compared BHSE and Malvalve .I might give a review not sure about it (Head-fi has become almost a Kindergarten) *
*Regarding to that email Malvalve should sound on Staxes very powerfull,airy ,organic and  with very deep soundstage with the famous Malvalve PRaT.*
*Time will tell if the Malvalve is seculari terminus on stat amps.*


----------



## gilency

A Kindergarden or back to the middle ages when magical thinking was as prevalent as it is becoming again, unfortunately.
  Or some of us are not really serious about headphones.


----------



## spritzer

One must remember to sacrifice something to appease the audio gods.  Don't mess with Baldur!!! 
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Looks like there's some hair and glue particles under the mesh grille. What do I do about that?
> 
> EDIT: Fixed that, but there's still rattle. Took the pads off but the driver doesn't seem "loose" or anything...


 
   
  Can't remove the mesh without potentially breaking the driver.


----------



## thinker

I like to add that i got also information that Head amp three is selling quite well because there exist high demand of good Stax amps,i think the demand is in Asia area, the price has already increased to 4390  euros
  Malvalve offers also pure Stax amps wich are two models above Head amp three price tag close to 10K and where WES and BHSE looks like toys in comparison
   
   
  kopfhör er -ver stär ker 
  head amp three 2x12W 2xECC81/4xEF184/4x6V6  
  Stax kopfhörerverstärker
  head amp one 2x100W 2xECC83/4xEF184/4xECC88+4x6550
  head amp four 2x....W 4xECC88/2xECC81/4xEF184/8xoutput tube      i.vorber.


----------



## autoteleology

Can anyone at least explain why my problem fixes itself as long as I add additional clamping pressure? I find that to me the most bizarre detail of it all.

 I have three sets of Lambda pads (and four sets of filters), if I have to I'll just glue the damn things on top of each other to fix this.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





gilency said:


> A Kindergarden or back to the middle ages when magical thinking was as prevalent as it is becoming again, unfortunately.
> Or some of us are not really serious about headphones.


 

 Great post, gilency. I think the primary driver for such beliefs is that our hearing is based so much more on moods and psychology rather than the equipment itself.
  @thinker, I'd love to see the Malvalve review, it does look to have a great functionality aspect but, as others have mentioned, the interface design is pretty atrocious.


----------



## autoteleology

If this is of use to anyone, here's a picture I took of the grill with the pads and the cover off.


----------



## spritzer

I see nothing wrong with that.  Could be something internal to the driver, busted dust cover would be what I'd look for.


----------



## autoteleology

How do I take them apart without destroying the driver? I can see that there are screws under the pads but... I don't know anything past that.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Can anyone at least explain why my problem fixes itself as long as I add additional clamping pressure? I find that to me the most bizarre detail of it all.
> 
> I have three sets of Lambda pads (and four sets of filters), if I have to I'll just glue the damn things on top of each other to fix this.


 
   
  Sounds like an issue with the dust seals, perhaps??


----------



## milosz

The cool thing about science is that even if you don't believe in it, it's still true.


----------



## autoteleology

I'm pretty sure it's the dust seals. Can anyone help me with taking apart the chassis so I can adjust/remove them, if it is plausible? I'm not afraid of DIY, but I think flying blind on what could end up a really costly screw-up is too risky for me.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> How do I take them apart without destroying the driver? I can see that there are screws under the pads but... I don't know anything past that.


 
   
  Those 4 screws just lift the baffle but the drivers are glued to that and then the drivers are glued together with industrial polyurethane.  The metal mesh is stuck on with glue pad as well but it's a pain to remove and reseat.


----------



## DefQon

So I'm thinking of rolling some Stax connectors buying the custom teflon ones and changing it out with my SRD-7mk2's, do you guys think that I will get a better bass response out of my stat's?


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





defqon said:


> So I'm thinking of rolling some Stax connectors buying the custom teflon ones and changing it out with my SRD-7mk2's, do you guys think that I will get a better bass response out of my stat's?


 
   
  The whole jack thing sounds silly, but I can't help thinking that if there was an issue with the dielectric in the sockets (beyond a safety one) then wouldn't it have to be caused by the material acting as a capacitor and influencing the sound that way?


----------



## Lil' Knight

thinker said:


> I like to add that i got also information that Head amp three is selling quite well because there exist high demand of good Stax amps,i think the demand is in Asia area, the price has already increased to 4390  euros
> Malvalve offers also pure Stax amps wich are two models above Head amp three price tag close to 10K and where WES and BHSE looks like toys in comparison
> 
> 
> ...



I guess more tubes immediately means much better... Such a good thinker.

Does that thing offer option to roll sockets? Man, I can't wait to see their future amp which has outputs in bottom panel.


----------



## yawg

Guys please stop bashing that MalValve amp. Maybe then we are still in for a shoot-out of the current popular Stax amps with that new thang. Might be interesting. Many tubes also means much rolling is possible - I realized great improvements in my system rolling tubes.


----------



## spritzer

Rolling tubes and just stuffing more tubes in an amp for the hell of it are two very different things.  The bottom line is a shared amp which is supposed to work for everything is the master of nothing.  Driving electrostatics before the output transformer has been done for decades and there has been an article stating just that for at least 12 years on Headwize.  This is an approach meant to be cheap and cheerful, high performance was never the plan. 
   
  Anybody claiming an amp such as this is better than the BHSE has no engineering know how and doesn't understand what it is about.  Price means nothing, number of tubes used means even less or even how big those tubes are.  The end result is just how much grip the amp has over the diaphragm at any given time and these just don't compare, at all. 
   
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> The whole jack thing sounds silly, but I can't help thinking that if there was an issue with the dielectric in the sockets (beyond a safety one) then wouldn't it have to be caused by the material acting as a capacitor and influencing the sound that way?


 
   
  If there was any conduction going on then the breaker would trip as the chassis is always grounded.  I think it is more the case of people wanting to believe there are differences when there are none.


----------



## empetus

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> One must remember to sacrifice something to appease the audio gods.  Don't mess with Baldur!!! The truth is on much deeper levels -empetus


 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Rolling tubes and just stuffing more tubes in an amp for the hell of it are two very different things.  The bottom line is a shared amp which is supposed to work for everything is the master of nothing.  Driving electrostatics before the output transformer has been done for decades and there has been an article stating just that for at least 12 years on Headwize.  This is an approach meant to be cheap and cheerful, high performance was never the plan.
> 
> Anybody claiming an amp such as this is better than the BHSE has no engineering know how and doesn't understand what it is about.  Price means nothing, number of tubes used means even less or even how big those tubes are.  The end result is just how much grip the amp has over the diaphragm at any given time and these just don't compare, at all.


 
   
  Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
 Regards
 Rudi Stor
   
  Dear Spritzer 
  from a distance objective view this is not healthy .


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





empetus said:


> Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
> Regards
> Rudi Stor
> 
> ...


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


>


 
  My thoughts exactly...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  and this, too.


----------



## spritzer

Kevin and I don't even look the same, I'm pretty much twice his size.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  People can look up this thread if they want pictures of us... 
   
  The point still stands, the BH same as the T2 uses the tubes perfectly for lowest distortion and optimum power delivery while the other amps, do not behave like that.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Hey guys, im getting really interested these days in some Staxx. Especially after both meets ive been to ive never heard such perfection. 
   
  I was looking at maybe picking up some Omega 2s, mk1 or 2, no huge preference, I do know the differences. But my main issue then is an amp. To be honest I am on more of a budget than a lot here. Id love to keep it under the $1000 range, but if anything in that range isnt really worth it, then I may pass. 
   
  What are your guys' suggestions for a budget amp for the O2 Mk2/1?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> Hey guys, im getting really interested these days in some Staxx. Especially after both meets ive been to ive never heard such perfection.
> 
> I was looking at maybe picking up some Omega 2s, mk1 or 2, no huge preference, I do know the differences. But my main issue then is an amp. To be honest I am on more of a budget than a lot here. Id love to keep it under the $1000 range, but if anything in that range isnt really worth it, then I may pass.
> 
> What are your guys' suggestions for a budget amp for the O2 Mk2/1?


 
   
  Bang for buck wise I thought SRM-1 MKII Pro was a better value than the often-recommended budget amp SRM323S. 323S sounded a tad better, but not worth the twice the asking price of the SRM-1 MKII Pro.
   
  I'd say start off with the SRM-1 and save up for a better amp, because upgraditis will hit you eventually anyway.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





empetus said:


> Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
> Regards
> Rudi Stor
> 
> ...


 
   
  Helpful post.


----------



## loserica

Hi,
  Please, help me with an useful information that I needed. Who knows if the headband assembly that fits for sr404 is fine as size and fit for the limited edition of Stax (sr-404LE)?
   
http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/products_id/286
   
  Thank you,


----------



## autoteleology

Aren't the headband assemblies interchangeable between Lambdas of the same era?


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





empetus said:


> Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
> Regards
> Rudi Stor
> 
> ...


 
  Dear empetus:
  your second post here at head-fi has opened my mind to the circle of intrigue and suspicious individuals in this forum.
  Thank you very much for your insight.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





loserica said:


> Hi,
> Please, help me with an useful information that I needed. Who knows if the headband assembly that fits for sr404 is fine as size and fit for the limited edition of Stax (sr-404LE)?
> 
> http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/products_id/286
> ...


 
   
  The 404LE headband is incidental to the normal 202/303/404 headband


----------



## loserica

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The 404LE headband is incidental to the normal 202/303/404 headband


 

 Thank you, a useful information for me!


----------



## K_19

So I opened up my SRM-717 100v version Today on curiousity of whether or not the voltage can be changed by switching the jumpers... It's definitely got those jumpers/metal bars there but I think I've read it before that some of the units cut some windings making it incompatible or something like that? Here's some pics if they're of any help at all in seeing whether that is possible... this is a 100v unit and I'd like to change it to the 117v.  
   
   

   

   

   
  So will I have no problems in changing the voltage here? If that's not enough info there I can take some more detailed pics... I do know that the jumper code for 117/120v is 2,4,6.
   
  But If I have to measure anything to make sure then it's probably best that I not do it as I don't have any equipment or technical knowledge to do so, and I have a Step up/down transformer I'm using anyway (and I hardly notice any difference in sound). But I figured I might as well do it if it is possible to do so, just for the sake of convenience.
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## kevin gilmore

you need to remove the green circuit board and look carefully at the wires going into
  the transformer. If they are cut (likely) you have to repair them first.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





currawong said:


> The whole jack thing sounds silly, but I can't help thinking that if there was an issue with the dielectric in the sockets (beyond a safety one) then wouldn't it have to be caused by the material acting as a capacitor and influencing the sound that way?


 
  Yeah well you know what where I was heading with what I said. Changing the stock jacks in my old SRD7sb mark 2's will give them a new facelift...
   
  Quote: 





empetus said:


> Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
> Regards
> Rudi Stor
> 
> ...


 





   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Aren't the headband assemblies interchangeable between Lambdas of the same era?


 
  Yes, headbands from the new and old Lambda models can all be interchanged. Just remove that little screw inside the housing to fit the newer headbands.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





empetus said:


> Spitzer are you real or just an avatar of Gilmore behind a proxy? I can't believe you exist, you are a kind of echo of him
> Regards
> Rudi Stor
> 
> ...


 
  Pretty obvious what happened here.  Spritzer has a three year old proxy he brought out of hibernation to accuse himself of being a proxy of KG, a charge he was well-equipped to refute with those gorgeous snapshots.  In the process, he would make Rudi look even more unhinged by apparently signing on by proxy to accuse someone else of being a proxy.  
   
  Quite cunning I must admit, and it almost had some fooled... unfortunately I can rebut it as _I_ am actually Rudi posting by proxy and have been for some years and can state unequivocally that empetus is an imposter created by the opposition to weaken my stranglehold on gullible European collectors.


----------



## DefQon

Alot of people are going to trip out on who is who from now from the last few posts in this thread.


----------



## K_19

Okay, thanks KG, removed the green board. All the wires seems to be going in? Is this a go or a no-go? Or can you even tell from this angle?


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yes, headbands from the new and old Lambda models can all be interchanged. Just remove that little screw inside the housing to fit the newer headbands.


 
  Are the leather earpad replacements for the 507 compatible with the 404LE?  Thanks--


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





also said:


> Are the leather earpad replacements for the 507 compatible with the 404LE?  Thanks--


 
   
  Yes. I see that you upgraded to an 007 now? Sold the rest of your headphones?


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yes. I see that you upgraded to an 007 now? Sold the rest of your headphones?


 
  DefQon, thanks for noticing.  I figured I'd put too much of my psycho-drama on display and wanted to spare everyone further drama, but basically, I couldn't bear having these new phones sitting in boxes unused.  I tried rotating the phones, but this just made me irritated.  None of the others kept my interest.  So, I contacted Fujiya Avic in Tokyo and worked out a trade.  My HD700, HD600, HE-400, and p3, along with the HP-A7 and Fiio E17 and a small amount of cash for the 007A.  It comes out to about ¥270,000 worth of stuff and cash for a ¥210,000 (retail) headphone.  I might have gotten a better deal selling things piecemeal, but this transaction took just several hours door-to-door.  And out of pocket, I spent about US$650 of my own money for the 007As, so I can live with that.  More than anything, it gives me some peace of mind.  I can now rotate two phones and build my set up from there.  Still blown away by the 404LE +T1 sound, but the 007A is really smooth and easy to listen to.  Still trying out tracks with it to get a better sense of its signatures while burning it in.
   
  I know that many aren't crazy about the 007A and prefer the Mk1 version and 009, but I like what I hear and will focus on adding a DAC (am trying out different ones now) and upgrading the driver/amp at some point.  It gives some time to start saving for a 009 and stop worrying about unused phones.  So that's my story, very little clutter at the moment, and I can build from the ground up with a decent foundation.
   
  (Would have dumped the ESWA9 too, but it's in storage in the States.)


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Bang for buck wise I thought SRM-1 MKII Pro was a better value than the often-recommended budget amp SRM323S. 323S sounded a tad better, but not worth the twice the asking price of the SRM-1 MKII Pro.
> 
> I'd say start off with the SRM-1 and save up for a better amp, because upgraditis will hit you eventually anyway.


 
  Is that the general reccomendation these days? Does anyone still produce it, or is it discontinued? Id love to buy new but I kinda get the feeling that isnt gunna be possible. Ive heard the 727 sounded great, but I may have to wait on that one.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> Is that the general reccomendation these days? Does anyone still produce it, or is it discontinued? Id love to buy new but I kinda get the feeling that isnt gunna be possible. Ive heard the 727 sounded great, but I may have to wait on that one.


 
   
  The SRM-1 MKII Pro available new, no... the amp is over 20 years old and are long out of production.  Used they go for about $300~400 though. Very good bang for the buck as long as they're in good condition.
   
   SRM-323S are available new and is said to be the best in-production Stax amp without modification.  They make a decent pairing with the 007.
   
  I had the 727A paired with the 007 MK1 for about a week and... I don't recommend that pairing in its stock form... has way too loose of a bottom end IMO. When modded it is said to sound a LOT better though.  If you can't mod it though I'd recommend a used 717 or a KGSS (assuming you can't go straight to end game with the BHSE)


----------



## SursumCorda

This is totally unrelated to any recent posts in this thread, but....
  
  I recently spent 5 days in Tokyo visiting parks and various headphone shops (Dynmaic Audio, Fujiya Avic, Yodabashi Cammera, etc)...
  [Side note: the Yodabashi Camera in Akihabara had by far the largest selection of 'phones you can listen to. There is noise pollution, but they had 5 stalls off to the side devoted to higher end headphones.]
  I finally had the chance to listen to the Stax line up. I think the 407 was my favorite....
  ...but after listening to them, I don't think I'll get another open-back headphone that's not a Stax again. I'll just wait and save up for SRS4070 combo, then eventually a good amp and then switch to the 007. (Bond, eat your heart out.)

 After listening to the Stax line, I don't want to buy something that's open back and not Stax...
 I am now a firm believer in the Stax Hype.


----------



## loserica

Quote: 





also said:


> I can now rotate two phones and build my set up from there.  Still blown away by the 404LE +T1 sound, but the 007A is really smooth and easy to listen to.  Still trying out tracks with it to get a better sense of its signatures while burning it in.
> 
> I know that many aren't crazy about the 007A and prefer the Mk1 version and 009, but I like what I hear and will focus on adding a DAC (am trying out different ones now) and upgrading the driver/amp at some point. It gives some time to start saving for a 009 and stop worrying about unused phones.  So that's my story, very little clutter at the moment, and I can build from the ground up with a decent foundation.


 
   
  404LE will work better with eXStatA (the SS version) and will work better compared with SRM006tII ( and i think It would beat 007, also).
  T1 not highlight them sufficiently. I have a friend who made a comparation between SR-404LE, Omega mk1 and 009 (amplification T1/SRM 717...) BHSE or Woo Wes would be better amplification for these, but for the moment they were possible. Hold my attention next interesting thing: there are chapters (like bass frequencies response, details, brightness, .. ) in which he liked more 404LE compared with mk1. Sure, mk1 was unbeatable to the depth of the stage..


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





sursumcorda said:


> After listening to the Stax line, I don't want to buy something that's open back and not Stax...
> I am now a firm believer in the Stax Hype.


 
  This is basically what happened to me; I took too many listens in that Yodobashi STAX corner--


----------



## autoteleology

How much does a 4070 typically go for? I don't think I've ever seen one for sale on Head-Fi, or anywhere else for that matter.


----------



## padam

1100-1500$ (above that it is probably better to go for SR007 even though it is not closed)


----------



## john65537

Hello,
  I bought a set of sr2170 and listened to them for three weeks.
  It's so great.
  I've never listened to such an effortless rendition.
   
  Very likely I won't appreciate other HPs except higher Staxes.
   
  Initially I was a bit worry about the electrostatic's hi-voltage,
  But after some measurements and web surveys, I know stax phones are safe.
   
  Evenmore, there are some reports about using electrostatic to reduce bacteria.
  I guess this is why I never have any ear-infection feeling with this 2170 but with other HPs I sometimes do.


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> How much does a 4070 typically go for? I don't think I've ever seen one for sale on Head-Fi, or anywhere else for that matter


 
  Good condition, $1250-1650 but its a sellers market so they could charge 2K to some collector if they were feeling evil.  I've managed to buy two in the last 12 months so they're definitely out there.


----------



## autoteleology

How do the 4070 sound compared to, say, the Lambdas? I know the Lambdas have much better height than width in terms of soundstage, but do the 4070 sound even more compressed?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Okay, thanks KG, removed the green board. All the wires seems to be going in? Is this a go or a no-go? Or can you even tell from this angle?


 
   
  The windings are intact so feel free to change the jumpers.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> The SRM-1 MKII Pro available new, no... the amp is over 20 years old and are long out of production.  Used they go for about $300~400 though. Very good bang for the buck as long as they're in good condition.
> 
> SRM-323S are available new and is said to be the best in-production Stax amp without modification.  They make a decent pairing with the 007.
> 
> I had the 727A paired with the 007 MK1 for about a week and... I don't recommend that pairing in its stock form... has way too loose of a bottom end IMO. When modded it is said to sound a LOT better though.  If you can't mod it though I'd recommend a used 717 or a KGSS (assuming you can't go straight to end game with the BHSE)


 
  Hmm, tough call. I would consider modding, but I only know specific soldering like 3.5mm plugs, and etc. And even then it usually takes me a few tries. It seems that im stuck between the 323s and SRM-1 MKII Pro. 
   
  Btw I was planning on going with the Stax Omega 2 Mk 2 or Mk1. I usually listen to rock, electro, and occasionally classical. I have no idea of the stax sound signature in the lineup. Ive only heard the Omega 2 mk 1 myself, and those are basically the only ones ive ever had the chance to audition. Is there any other phones in the stax lineup that match my criteria? The main reason I say the Omega 2s is because the other square guys dont seem comfortable at all really. Square shape for oval ears just doesnt add up to me. Plus the omegas look great and are insanely comfortable. 
   
  Also something I havent considered yet is a source. Do these things need an epic source, or is a decent one good enough? And do the omegas benefit from a re-cable? I dont know if anyone even makes em.  
   
  Sorry for all the questions, just the stax are very unknown to me, but I know I dont know how much longer I can live without the sound. Both times ive heard the Omegas it was just  stunning, so instantly noticeable over any other headphone.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The windings are intact so feel free to change the jumpers.


 
   
  Thanks Spritzer. Switched it up, turned it on, working like a charm! 
   
  Saves having to turn on/off the transformer every time.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> Hmm, tough call. I would consider modding, but I only know specific soldering like 3.5mm plugs, and etc. And even then it usually takes me a few tries. It seems that im stuck between the 323s and SRM-1 MKII Pro.
> 
> Btw I was planning on going with the Stax Omega 2 Mk 2 or Mk1. I usually listen to rock, electro, and occasionally classical. I have no idea of the stax sound signature in the lineup. Ive only heard the Omega 2 mk 1 myself, and those are basically the only ones ive ever had the chance to audition. Is there any other phones in the stax lineup that match my criteria? The main reason I say the Omega 2s is because the other square guys dont seem comfortable at all really. Square shape for oval ears just doesnt add up to me. Plus the omegas look great and are insanely comfortable.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I do not have extensive knowledge with Stax cans other than the 007 MK1's, but what I've heard is that the overall balance is quite different to the other Lambdas, etc in the lineup. I've also tried another electrostat, the Koss ESP950s, but they're also said to sound very different from the Omegas/Lambdas as well. So it's probably the best for others with more experience to chime in on this comparison.
   
  A good source is definitely a must with the 007's. I've gone through 3 different mid-level sources with mine, (Anedio, Wyred-4-Sound DAC1, Stello DA100) and they by far lets you hear the differences in sources more than any of the other cans that I've tried. I'm relatively happy with the DA100 I have now but know that eventually I'll upgrade to something technically better down the road.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I do not have extensive knowledge with Stax cans other than the 007 MK1's, but what I've heard is that the overall balance is quite different to the other Lambdas, etc in the lineup. I've also tried another electrostat, the Koss ESP950s, but they're also said to sound very different from the Omegas/Lambdas as well. So it's probably the best for others with more experience to chime in on this comparison.
> 
> A good source is definitely a must with the 007's. I've gone through 3 different mid-level sources with mine, (Anedio, Wyred-4-Sound DAC1, Stello DA100) and they by far lets you hear the differences in sources more than any of the other cans that I've tried. I'm relatively happy with the DA100 I have now but know that eventually I'll upgrade to something technically better down the road.


 
  I figured as much. What source would you guys reccomend for my price range area? I understand I probably wont be able to get it under 2k, but if its mildly close including everything then its understandable. Currently using Schiit Modi.


----------



## shipsupt

I made the jump from the DA100 (which I had and was happy with for a long time) to the NAD M51.  I was surprised at how noticeable the upgrade was, all good.
   
  Quote: 





k_19 said:


> A good source is definitely a must with the 007's. I've gone through 3 different mid-level sources with mine, (Anedio, Wyred-4-Sound DAC1, Stello DA100) and they by far lets you hear the differences in sources more than any of the other cans that I've tried. I'm relatively happy with the DA100 I have now but know that eventually I'll upgrade to something technically better down the road.


----------



## givemevinyl

So I just recently got back into head-fi and bought the Cavalli LF, HD800, LCD2.2, AT 3000ANV and PS Audio PerfectWave MKII, but must admit I've always been curious about Stax.  I can't afford to try the 009, but do you think adding an Omega 2 MkI to the collection would be sonically worth it given what I already have?  Alternate way of asking, Is it different enough from what I own to keep both dynamic rig and start new Stax rig?  I listen to probably 50% rock, 25% jazz and 25% acoustic.  Soundstage, imaging and musical clarity are most important.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> I made the jump from the DA100 (which I had and was happy with for a long time) to the NAD M51.  I was surprised at how noticeable the upgrade was, all good.


 
   
  That's actually one that's been gaining my interest for a while. Definitely would bite if I find one for a right price. BTW, I've seen your profile and it's scary how much in common we have and had rig wise! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> I figured as much. What source would you guys reccomend for my price range area? I understand I probably wont be able to get it under 2k, but if its mildly close including everything then its understandable. Currently using Schiit Modi.


 
   
  By your price range I'm guessing you mean under $1000? I thought that the Wyred-4-Sound DAC-1 sounded quite well with my 007/717 rig, as I found it to be a bit more brighter and detailed than my current Stello (but then sold it for budgeting reasons).  The 007 MK1 tends to be slightly to the warm side of things so DACs known to be on detailed, slightly brighter side of things should be a good match.  The aforementioned M51 is said to be a good match, though I haven't tried it and is over your budget.  I've also heard the rig out of a Lavry DAC and that sounded quite good as well. My current Stello also matches up well with it, but it's an older DAC only available used now (at very affordable $300~400 range), and technically behind in some aspects (such as older plain jane adaptive USB input). But with a nice USB/SPDIF converter DA100 still performs very nicely against $1000 DACs of today IMO.  Then there's also Schiit Audio options such as the Mjolnir.


----------



## schorsch

Hello list members,
   
  I have to sell some of my stax equipment - because it's getting too much and I want to acquire a malvalve amp )
   
  I start with an amp in very good condition SRM 1 MKII PP.
   
  Other auctions will follow. If you are interested jave a look at:
   
  http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stax-SRM-1-MKII-in-der-seltenen-PP-Version-2PRO-Ausgange-selektierte-Bauteile-/170997996210?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item27d0465ab2
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: End of the stax commercial break.


----------



## forbigger

>>Soundstage, imaging and musical clarity are most important.
   
  this 3 components is where stats trumps the dynamic. Soundstage is about on par with dynamic and I'm referring to the dynamic which deemed to have one of the best soundstage ,HD800
   
  >> probably 50% rock, 25% jazz and 25% acoustic
   
  All your music collection is a match to stats sound signature. Audience it to make up your mind. Go to a meet.
   
  Good luck


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> That's actually one that's been gaining my interest for a while. Definitely would bite if I find one for a right price. BTW, I've seen your profile and it's scary how much in common we have and had rig wise!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Isnt the Mjolnir an amp? Didnt know it drives electrostats.  Or did you mean the Gungir DAC?   Mjolnir/Gungir is out of my budget probably atm. Maybe later, or the bifrost. 
   
  Quote: 





forbigger said:


> >>Soundstage, imaging and musical clarity are most important.
> 
> this 3 components is where stats trumps the dynamic. Soundstage is about on par with dynamic and I'm referring to the dynamic which deemed to have one of the best soundstage ,HD800
> 
> ...


 
  Was this in reference to my post? If so great, sounds good and pretty much mostly what I listen to. Electronic and whatnot simply may require a different headphone, which I already have.


----------



## forbigger

@Deathdeisel, i was referring to givemevinyl post. but if it applies to you too then doesnt really matter......


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> Isnt the Mjolnir an amp? Didnt know it drives electrostats.  Or did you mean the Gungir DAC?   Mjolnir/Gungir is out of my budget probably atm. Maybe later, or the bifrost.
> 
> Was this in reference to my post? If so great, sounds good and pretty much mostly what I listen to. Electronic and whatnot simply may require a different headphone, which I already have.


 
   
  Yeah, sorry. Meant the Gungnir.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Yeah, sorry. Meant the Gungnir.


 
  Gotcha, so basically any brightish revealing DAC is fine correct? I guess then if so I just really need to find a good DAC in the price range.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> Gotcha, so basically any brightish revealing DAC is fine correct? I guess then if so I just really need to find a good DAC in the price range.


 
   
  Your choice of amp will also affect the chain as well. For example, my driver is a warmish-tinted laid back 717, so a more analytical and slighter brighter DACs work well.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Pretty obvious what happened here.  Spritzer has a three year old proxy he brought out of hibernation to accuse himself of being a proxy of KG, a charge he was well-equipped to refute with those gorgeous snapshots.  In the process, he would make Rudi look even more unhinged by apparently signing on by proxy to accuse someone else of being a proxy.
> 
> Quite cunning I must admit, and it almost had some fooled... unfortunately I can rebut it as _I_ am actually Rudi posting by proxy and have been for some years and can state unequivocally that empetus is an imposter created by the opposition to weaken my stranglehold on gullible European collectors.


 
   
  I am lying.  Nothing I ever say is the truth.


----------



## livewire

@ milosz - wots the latest newz on your T2?


----------



## Nemeske88

Dear Forum!
   
  Sorry for bugging you with this, but somebody asked a similar question before.
  I've just acquired some Normal bias Lambda next to my 303s powered by a mini-energiser, the SRM-X Pro.
  I wonder if I can use the earspeakers simultanously for longer time without melting something down? As for powering the SRM-X Pro, I use it's own AC adapter (output 12V 400mA), which do not runs hot.
   
  I am worry because I've found this in the manual of the SRM-X Pro:
   

   
   
   
  Thanks


----------



## Deathdeisel

Hey guys, whats the opinion on this amp for the Omega 2s? I like the idea of a new amp for 500$ 
  https://www.staxusa.com/driver/stax-srm-252s.html


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *Deathdeisel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Hey guys, whats the opinion on this amp for the Omega 2s? I like the idea of a new amp for 500$
> https://www.staxusa.com/driver/stax-srm-252s.html


 
   
  That's really expensive, considering a few years ago I got the SR-202 + 252 for about the same price.
   
  I've used them with the O2's for a while, and they're okay at low levels, but they start to sound compressed at medium/high levels (where the O2's come alive with a good amp).
   
  I'd pass and look for something used instead, especially at that price. But I guess you can use them to get you by until funds accumulate if you're really against buying used (though you might have trouble offloading the 252s too).


----------



## gilency

I don't know if its a good idea or not, but I have used a normal bias (Sigma) and Pro (Sigma404 or SR-007) at the same time with an SRD-7 Mk2 without any trouble.
  Would like to hear what Spritzer or Kevin have to say about this.
  Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Dear Forum!
> 
> Sorry for bugging you with this, but somebody asked a similar question before.
> I've just acquired some Normal bias Lambda next to my 303s powered by a mini-energiser, the SRM-X Pro.
> ...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I discovered that you know when you've hit audio nirvana when you haven't had to visit this thread in 3 months...


----------



## livewire

@ HA - So you've been hangin out at the "nirvana thread" instead?
  Why don't you enlighten us about your latest and greatest?


----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> I discovered that you know when you've hit audio nirvana when you haven't had to visit this thread in 3 months...


 
  So true!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Dear Forum!
> 
> Sorry for bugging you with this, but somebody asked a similar question before.
> I've just acquired some Normal bias Lambda next to my 303s powered by a mini-energiser, the SRM-X Pro.
> ...


 
   
  The SRM-X (or any of the newer small amps which share the same basic circuit) consume very little power so there is very little current for the output stage.  Ask the amp to drive twice the load and you are just asking for trouble.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> That's really expensive, considering a few years ago I got the SR-202 + 252 for about the same price.
> 
> I've used them with the O2's for a while, and they're okay at low levels, but they start to sound compressed at medium/high levels (where the O2's come alive with a good amp).
> 
> I'd pass and look for something used instead, especially at that price. But I guess you can use them to get you by until funds accumulate if you're really against buying used (though you might have trouble offloading the 252s too).


 
  Gotcha, just figured id ask, in case that amp was the equivalent of what I was planning on buying just newer. 
   
  So if I am to buy a SRM T-1, will I need to re-new the capacitors? How hard is this? And is it better to just have it done by someone else?


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

silverplated copper off, pure copper on


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> silverplated copper off, pure copper on


 
  very nice should sound more organic 
  tested today different  Stax phones with different amps
  and result is
  1.Stax Omega mk 1
  2.Stax Lambda pro sometimes better than Omega mk 1
  3.Stax 009
  4.Stax Omega mk2
  with this cable modification i guess the 009 will be between Omega 007 mk1 and Lambda Pro


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

yeah. i pretty much have the best 009


----------



## hpz

Hmm I  wonder how many 009s owners will now go out and recable their phones now...
   
  Also, is that copper cable just a 007s replacement cable?


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Yes.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





t-h-e-p-i-m-p said:


> Yes.


 
  Please send them to me so I can compare them with mine. Thanks


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p




----------



## zachchen1996

Has anyone ever re-cabled the 009s with pure silver wire? Im guesing that would make them far too bright?


----------



## MorbidToaster

Might make no difference at all, who knows. 
   
  Quote: 





zachchen1996 said:


> Has anyone ever re-cabled the 009s with pure silver wire? Im guesing that would make them far too bright?


----------



## Deathdeisel

Btw im assuming from that post that it is possible to recable stax? Not a huge fan of the stock cord.


----------



## DefQon

Soon you know it, people are going against the good engineering from Stax and start recabling there SR-009's with all kinds of shenanigans.


----------



## MorbidToaster

deathdeisel said:


> Btw im assuming from that post that it is possible to recable stax? Not a huge fan of the stock cord.



 
 He recalled it with another Stax cable...lol


----------



## justin w.

The change in sound from applying soldering iron heat near the drivers is probably several orders of magnitude greater than the change in cable
   
  Same with the change in sound from a slightly different re-assembly of the headphones


----------



## gilency

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. 
Please start your own thread if you start talking about cables.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> The change in sound from applying soldering iron heat near the drivers is probably several orders of magnitude greater than the change in cable
> 
> Same with the change in sound from a slightly different re-assembly of the headphones


 
   
  Now that you mention this, it's a rather scary endeavour to recable these cans! It's not like the dust screens or diaphragm are very thick. Hopefully, there was no flux in the solder mix


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Now that you mention this, it's a rather scary endeavour to recable these cans! It's not like the dust screens or diaphragm are very thick. Hopefully, there was no flux in the solder mix


 
   
  I suggest avoiding solder altogether.  He needs to *weld* those cables on..... inert gas welding, no less, so as not to introduce oxygen into the copper.
   
  By soldering he has introduced tin, silver, lead and a good deal of oxygen into the joint.  The oxygen will electromigrate into the copper cable, eventually reaching the amplifier and poisoning the tube cathodes and /or semiconductor junction doping.....


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> The change in sound from applying soldering iron heat near the drivers is probably several orders of magnitude greater than the change in cable
> 
> Same with the change in sound from a slightly different re-assembly of the headphones


 
   
  True and if he soldered without solid covers over the entire drivers then there is a good chance flux castoff did some serious damage.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Soon you know it, people are going against the good engineering from Stax and start recabling there SR-009's with all kinds of shenanigans.


 
   
  Exactly.  To those of you inquiring about this, please do not pollute this thread.  I beg you to start your own thread.  Or go back to dynamics.


----------



## t-h-e-p-i-m-p

Yeah it's already destroyed


----------



## gilency

You guys just don't get it; not surprised. 
More organic sound? That is the more ignorant comment ever in this thread. 
Now, go somewhere else, i.e. the magical cables thread.
I promise I won't berate you there.


----------



## coredump

I need to buy a transformer for a Stax amp but for the life of me I can't find a picture of a power cord.  Does Stax use 2 or 3 prong power plugs?


----------



## gilency

Google images?


----------



## coredump

Yes.  I was actually looking for the cord itself but I suppose that socket means it's a 3 prong with a generic power cord.  Thanks
   
Woops. I guess not all amps are the same.  Looking at the back of the SRM-252S I see this. I guess I'll just get a 3 prong transformer and be prepared for anything.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Quote: 





gilency said:


> You guys just don't get it; not surprised.
> More organic sound? That is the more ignorant comment ever in this thread.
> Now, go somewhere else, i.e. the magical cables thread.
> I promise I won't berate you there.


 
  FWIW I was just asking for costmetic and usability standpoint. I know there probably wasnt going to be any if at all difference in sound.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





deathdeisel said:


> FWIW I was just asking for costmetic and usability standpoint. I know there probably wasnt going to be any if at all difference in sound.


 
  OK, I think I was drunk when I made these comments; I meant what I said about opening a new thread about cables, but it came out too rude. Sorry.


----------



## Deathdeisel

Lol its all good, my main curiosity was if it was even possible to recable stax. In reality it would take me damaging the cable in some way to attempt to alter it.


----------



## jaycalgary

I can't believe the hard time the guy is getting on here for re cabling his 009's. I think it is the most interesting thing on here in a while and there probable isn't too many people on here that wouldn't like to hear if there is a difference. I wanted to hear how the 009 cable would sound on the 007's. At this level you only have 2 cables to choose from and it takes soldering skills that Stax doesn't even have at times. I am also glad to see the inside picture of the 009's but still wonder how they would come apart to change the earpads.


----------



## gilency

Do the benefits outweigh the risks?
  Is there an added benefit?
  Again, any discussion about cables and their influence (or lack of) in sound should be discussed in another thread. Lets not start it here.


----------



## jaycalgary

Funny questions to be asking here don't you think? They are Stax cables and this is the Stax thread.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I can't believe the hard time the guy is getting on here for re cabling his 009's. I think it is the most interesting thing on here in a while and there probable isn't too many people on here that wouldn't like to hear if there is a difference. I wanted to hear how the 009 cable would sound on the 007's. At this level you only have 2 cables to choose from and it takes soldering skills that Stax doesn't even have at times. I am also glad to see the inside picture of the 009's but still wonder how they would come apart to change the earpads.


 
  Pictures of a complete disassembly were posted here


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Looking at the back of the SRM-252S I see this. I guess I'll just get a 3 prong transformer and be prepared for anything.


 
  That input is for a wallwart plug. DC input into the amp.


----------



## milosz

Any recabling of the Stax headphones must be done with inert gas welding, of a type known as TIG welding.  To properly recable a Stax earspeaker, the first step is to fill the entire room with argon gas.....


----------



## wink

Or Hydrogen and Oxygen, then light the torch.
  You'll sure get a bang out of that job.
  And you won't have to worry about your wallet anymore..
   
  A permanent fix you might say......


----------



## DefQon

haha.


----------



## gilency

Jay, you know how discussions about cables always end.
  Its like having a pro lifer trying to convert a prochoice to their point of view.
  Or an amicable conversation between a capitalist and a communist.
  It's just that is not going to end well.


----------



## David1961

I had the SR-007mk1's for 11 years and in that time I only had one problem which was with the cable. To get those headphones repaired, all I did was take them to my local audio shop where they sent them off to a place to have a new cable fitted. If my 009's ever needed a new cable, I'd just do the same thing.
   
  I know it has been suggested that the discussion of cables should be discussed on another thread, but I'm only referring to Stax cables, and this is The Stax thread.


----------



## e19650826

Quote: 





david1961 said:


> I had the SR-007mk1's for 11 years and in that time I only had one problem which was with the cable. To get those headphones repaired, all I did was take them to my local audio shop where they sent them off to a place to have a new cable fitted. If my 009's ever needed a new cable, I'd just do the same thing.
> 
> I know it has been suggested that the discussion of cables should be discussed on another thread, but I'm only referring to Stax cables, and this is The Stax thread.


 
  I believe it is entirely acceptable (even welcomed) to disuss cable (in this thread) in your case, because replacing the cable was not optional, but the previous post isn't suggesting anything close to this.


----------



## jcx

but the magnitudes for current, resistance, V sensitivity in ESL are way different than dynamic headphones - even if you "believe" you shouldn't think that cable quality analogies from dynamics apply similarly to ESL
   
  Quote:


jcx said:


> of course as an engineer I think most of the cable commentary is silly for any headphone - but do you people realize just how different the operating conditions for ES headphones are?
> 
> if a cable were to make a difference an engineer would expect this to mean there was a audibly significant voltage difference between one end and the other
> 
> ...


----------



## autoteleology

The entire cable discussion for high-end STAX seems totally crazy to me because I would believe that STAX already uses the optimal cables for its headphones. I don't know if anyone has seen the disassembled STAX-SR-009, but the product as a whole is incredibly well engineered, almost to the point where it is meant to be a statement.

 I'd be shocked to think that there is even a cable available that would be better than what STAX offers stock.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Any recabling of the Stax headphones must be done with inert gas welding, of a type known as TIG welding.  To properly recable a Stax earspeaker, the first step is to fill the entire room with argon gas.....


----------



## MacedonianHero

Settling in with my new Head Amp KGSS (picked up in a local deal). Very impressed so far with my SR009s. Imaging seems wider (closer to my HD800s now). Bass is more robust and even tighter. It's built like pretty much everything Justin builds...solid and very professional. 
   
  Anyone interested in a MINT SRM-727II, let me know, I'll be listing it likely tomorrow.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Settling in with my new Head Amp KGSS (picked up in a local deal). Very impressed so far with my SR009s. Imaging seems wider (closer to my HD800s now). Bass is more robust and even tighter. It's built like pretty much everything Justin builds...solid and very professional.
> 
> Anyone interested in a MINT SRM-727II, let me know, I'll be listing it likely tomorrow.


 
   
  I saw your ad . Was wondering what you moved onto instead & saw it in your sig. Nice go with the KGSS mate. Does "robust" mean a deeper bass extension too?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





gilency said:


>


 
  Where'd you get my picture!?!?!


----------



## gilency

I sneaked in on you when you were working on your 009's


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> I saw your ad . Was wondering what you moved onto instead & saw it in your sig. Nice go with the KGSS mate. Does "robust" mean a deeper bass extension too?


 
  Day 1.5 with it and I'm very happy with the amp. Justin's workmanship has always been top notch. I'm making notes as I familiarize myself with the amp. More to come...


----------



## DefQon

Didn't know Justin still made KGSS'.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Didn't know Justin still made KGSS'.


 
  http://www.headamp.com/electrostat_amps/kgss/index.htm
   
  Don't think he's making anymore any time soon as he's focusing on the BHSE and GS-X (and his portable gear).


----------



## jaycalgary

He doesn't. It's not on the order page.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Well, this is a steal for anyone who has $500 lying around! Too bad I don't, or else I would have snapped that up already just for the SRM-313. Yama's/STAX USA sells replacement headband/arc assemblies anyway, so it's not difficult to complete the bundled SR-303.
   
  Also, what's the overall stance on the SR-Gamma (Normal bias)? I don't expect it to be as good as a Lambda due to the smaller drivers (particularly when it comes to extension), but would they be worthwhile as a lower-cost Stax option whenever they pop up?
   
  I guess I'll find out for myself soon enough.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Well, this is a steal for anyone who has $500 lying around! Too bad I don't, or else I would have snapped that up already just for the SRM-313. Yama's/STAX USA sells replacement headband/arc assemblies anyway, so it's not difficult to complete the bundled SR-303.
> 
> Also, what's the overall stance on the SR-Gamma (Normal bias)? I don't expect it to be as good as a Lambda due to the smaller drivers (particularly when it comes to extension), but would they be worthwhile as a lower-cost Stax option whenever they pop up?
> 
> I guess I'll find out for myself soon enough.


 
  Not bad of a deal....100v for the amp and no headband arc is a killer for me at least and no international shipping. Gamma Pro's have better extension more controlled probably due to it being pro-bias. Haven't heard a normal 6 pin bias one but there is one up for auction on ebay sitting at less than $100 atm from seller "whatjohnbrowningwoulddo" if you want to find out.


----------



## oogabooga

I have a question about the difference between the XLR and RCA inputs on my SRM-006t. The 006t has two inputs, one is RCA only, the other is selectable between RCA and XLR.  I currently have my Parasound 1500, which I can hookup using either connection (using Monoprice cables, and SR-007s FWIW).
   
  When I listen via XLR I find the sound to be considerably louder. Am I correct in assuming this is because XLR delivers twice the voltage of RCA?  I cannot, however, discern a sonic difference between RCA/XLR.
   
  More importantly, if I listen at high volumes, I find that that the amp begins to distorts at the same overall sound level using either XLR or RCA (i.e. not the same setting on the volume dial, but the same sound level at my ears).  Put another way, using XLR does not seem to give me any more 'headroom'.
   
  Are my experiences consistent with the engineering of these amps, or have I missed an important step somewhere?  I am trying to better understand the benefits of using the XLR inputs, so I can decide how to proceed with future purchases. Thanks!


----------



## autoteleology

I took my SR-303 to school, lolz.

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/650328/non-audiophile-reactions-to-high-end-headphones-part-ii/135#post_9230812
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/650328/non-audiophile-reactions-to-high-end-headphones-part-ii/150#post_9239087
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/650328/non-audiophile-reactions-to-high-end-headphones-part-ii/165#post_9246197


----------



## e19650826

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


>


 
  XLR basically just gives the amp with lower gain more headroom and brings the benefit of higher slew rate. Other than these two... I don't think there is any more potential benefits worth mentioning.
   
  I'm no expert, but yeah XLR do deliver twice the voltage (louder.) The distortion; however, shouldn't be effect. It hard to actually tell the volume by ear; hence, the need of equipments.  
   
  Not fimiliar with 006t's schematic at all, but here is one possibility which is very remote.
  the "-" channels of the amp has some problem that's causing the distortion. When using single ended, those "-" channel inputs are shorted to ground, so you most likely won't hear the problem.
   
  Wait for Spritzer for more detailed diagnosis.
   
  Quote:


tus-chan said:


>


   
  win.


----------



## Michgelsen

lolz.
  Next step: a big battery pack to go fully mobile.
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I took my SR-303 to school, lolz.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/650328/non-audiophile-reactions-to-high-end-headphones-part-ii/135#post_9230812
> 
> ...


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I have a question about the difference between the XLR and RCA inputs on my SRM-006t. The 006t has two inputs, one is RCA only, the other is selectable between RCA and XLR.  I currently have my Parasound 1500, which I can hookup using either connection (using Monoprice cables, and SR-007s FWIW).
> 
> When I listen via XLR I find the sound to be considerably louder. Am I correct in assuming this is because XLR delivers twice the voltage of RCA?  I cannot, however, discern a sonic difference between RCA/XLR.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I found this post a few days ago which is one of the best explanations I have yet to find on XLR vs Single Ended.  Credit to asr from http://www.head-fi.org/t/619365/woo-wes-xlr-input-or-rca-inputs.
   
   
   
  Quote: 





asr said:


> I suggest starting with this, if you haven't already: http://www.headphone.com/learning-center/balanced-drive-faq.php
> 
> The ideal way to form an all-balanced system is with: (1) balanced source component, (2) balanced amp, and (3) balanced headphones. There are caveats on each item though:
> 
> ...


 
  This article is also pretty good from a layman's perspective IMO.
   
  http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/is-balanced-connection-better-1/
   
  The D/AC1500 should be a fully balanced source so you should be technically better off via XLR; the clipping you are describing I can't really answer for but is interesting.  Speaking of the D/AC 1500 - how do you feel it fares sonically?  Maybe my ears are broken but I haven't found great synergy with any of my other amps and the Parasound yet.


----------



## jcx

too bad so much of it is wrong


----------



## Mr.Sneis

><


----------



## cucera

Hi folks,

I own a 303 with leather pads and an SRM 1 MK 2. Now I want to upgrade gradually. I am thinking about a 407 or 405. Would that be an enhancement, or do I have to upgrade the amp first?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





e19650826 said:


> XLR basically just gives the amp with lower gain more headroom and brings the benefit of higher slew rate. Other than these two... I don't think there is any more potential benefits worth mentioning.
> 
> I'm no expert, but yeah XLR do deliver twice the voltage (louder.) The distortion; however, shouldn't be effect. It hard to actually tell the volume by ear; hence, the need of equipments.
> 
> ...


 
   
  XLR output is usually double that of RCA but it's not a rule.  It's certainly in this case and as for the distortion,  more input voltage will not help with the natural limitations of the amplifier.  The 6CG7's will run in trouble with higher voltage (i.e. more volume) and the double input voltage only gets you there quicker.  It's a good circuit hampered by a tube that can't stand the 700V it's asked to work at.


----------



## e19650826

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> XLR output is usually double that of RCA but it's not a rule.  It's certainly in this case and as for the distortion,  more input voltage will not help with the natural limitations of the amplifier.  The 6CG7's will run in trouble with higher voltage (i.e. more volume) and the double input voltage only gets you there quicker.  It's a good circuit hampered by a tube that can't stand the 700V it's asked to work at.


 
   
  I know that higher input voltage will just push the amp to higher distortion faster.
  but shouldn't the distortion of XLR be of the same maginitude of RCA, if the final output dB on the headphone are set to the same level?
  (Not particularly familiar with how tubes work. I'm assuming that it works somewhat like a transistor.)


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





e19650826 said:


> I know that higher input voltage will just push the amp to higher distortion faster.
> but shouldn't the distortion of XLR be of the same maginitude of RCA, if the final output dB on the headphone are set to the same level?
> (Not particularly familiar with how tubes work. I'm assuming that it works somewhat like a transistor.)


 
  I though his response was clear enough. Distortion mainly comes from the output stage and it doesn't matter if the signal reaching was from xlr or unbalanced inputs, the output stage clips above a certain input signal level. Depending on the amp design (and hence gain settings) this may happen at same or different volume setting of the potentiometer, but it to occurs at the same loudness level since it relates to the output stage linearity.


----------



## oogabooga

Thanks spritzer and arnaud for your comments - I understand completely. All the more reason to try and convert the 006t to an SRM-600, if I ever get the cohones to start hacking up that amp!
   
   
  Quote:


mr.sneis said:


> The D/AC1500 should be a fully balanced source so you should be technically better off via XLR; the clipping you are describing I can't really answer for but is interesting.  Speaking of the D/AC 1500 - how do you feel it fares sonically?  Maybe my ears are broken but I haven't found great synergy with any of my other amps and the Parasound yet.


 
   
  Thanks for the links and the quotes - I've got some reading to do.
   
  My sonic thoughts on the Parasound are that it's 'good', but I don't have a trained ear. I had a couple of weeks to compare it to an NAD M51, which I found had slightly better bass than the Parasound but it was something I could only pin down on one track (Phoenix by Daft Punk). Otherwise I could not discern a difference. 
   
   
  Quote: 





jcx said:


> too bad so much of it is wrong


 
   
  Could you elaborate (or perhaps reference another post that does)?


----------



## e19650826

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I though his response was clear enough. Distortion mainly comes from the output stage and it doesn't matter if the signal reaching was from xlr or unbalanced inputs, the output stage clips above a certain input signal level. Depending on the amp design (and hence gain settings) this may happen at same or different volume setting of the potentiometer, but it to occurs at the same loudness level since it relates to the output stage linearity.


 
   
  EDIT. Misread the entire original post. Stupidity on my side.
   
  I thought he was saying that distortion happens at different volume level. :facepalm


----------



## autoteleology

> Next step: a big battery pack to go fully mobile.


 
   
  If I knew how to do this, I would. My portable setup at the moment is rubbish and I have a lot of empty room in my bag.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> (...) I have a lot of empty room in my bag.


 
   
  If the SRM-Xh takes the same input as a 252, namely 12V, that would put it in car battery territory. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 So much for mobility though...
   
  Seriously, you would have to hook up some batteries in series to get 12V, for example 8×1.5V or 10×1.2V, find and buy the same connector as on the adapter, connect it via a wire to the batteries, while observing polarity, and you should be set.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> If the SRM-Xh takes the same input as a 252, namely 12V, that would put it in car battery territory.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Or this maybe? dont know much 'bout 'lectricity i 'r mechanical engineer:
*Anker® Astro3 10000mAh Multi-voltage (USB output: 5V, 2A; DC output: 9V / 12V, 2A) External Battery Pack ( Dual USB Output plus DC Output ) for Samsung Tablets, Netbook, Digital Cameras, DV Recorders, PS Vita, Nexus 7, NDS, NDSL, GoPro; iPhone 5 (Lightning Cable not Provided), iPad, iPod; HTC Sensation, EVO, One X; Samsung Galaxy S3 [12 connectors for mobile phones, 6 connectors for tablets, US AC adapter included] *


----------



## e19650826

you need clean and regulated PSU for the amp, otherwise it will most likely sound like crap.
  those multi purpose battery pack meant for charging batteries have quite a bit of noise making them not of best choice for audio.
  best way to go is find yourself a 120V battery pack and plug the existing wallwart PSU into it... drawback is you will have to carry a suitcase around with you


----------



## Michgelsen

Most Stax amps do not use regulated PSUs. Battery power is most likely much cleaner than what a typical (internal) Stax power supply delivers. Voltage drop could be a problem when the batteries are running out, though this should be harmless.
  It should be really easy to use typical household batteries of 1.5V, or rechargeable ones of 1.2V for this purpose. Just connect them in series and you have a stable 12V power supply until the batteries run out.
  A 120V battery would need to be a massive array of cells in series and then you still need to carry the transformer around to transform it back down to 12V: this is very unpractical and unnecessary.


----------



## e19650826

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Most Stax amps do not use regulated PSUs.


 
  This is new to me. Thanks for the info. I assumed that they all would have some form of regulated PSU like most comercial/DIY ones, since they are charging quite a bit for them.
   
  still, something like 001 is much more suitable for portable use.


----------



## autoteleology

The battery that bearFNF seems like an extremely useful electronic gadget, regardless of even whether it works with the amp or not (though it appears that it would).


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I have a question about the difference between the XLR and RCA inputs on my SRM-006t. The 006t has two inputs, one is RCA only, the other is selectable between RCA and XLR.  I currently have my Parasound 1500, which I can hookup using either connection (using Monoprice cables, and SR-007s FWIW).
> 
> When I listen via XLR I find the sound to be considerably louder. Am I correct in assuming this is because XLR delivers twice the voltage of RCA?  I cannot, however, discern a sonic difference between RCA/XLR.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Balanced lines ( XLR ) have several inherent advantages over single-ended ( RCA )  but in home audio these advantages are not always important or even audible.
   
  Balanced lines are pretty much the "standard" for transmitting analog audio signals in recording studios, music venues, broadcast studios, movie production studios and the like.  This is largely because using a balanced line makes signal transmission more immune to picking up electrical noise from the surroundings, and also using balanced lines one can transmit audio without connecting the chassis-grounds of various mixers, patch panels, processors, recorders etc together, reducing the likelihood of noise from ground loops. 
   
*GROUND LOOPS*
  A single-ended "RCA" type cable usually (not always) connects the two chassis of the source and the preamp / amp / recorder together. This is not really a problem, but these two pieces of gear may also have 3-prong power cords, connecting both chassis to powerline earth ground.   If the resistance between one chassis and earth ground is even slightly greater than the resistance seen by the other chassis- well do your Ohm's Law calculation and you'll see that there now exists a potential ( i.e., voltage) difference between the two chassis, that stray capacitance / inductance leakage from the unit's power transformer is going to create a slightly higher 60 Hz AC voltage on the chassis with the higher resistance to earth ground than on the other chassis. The RCA cable between them electrically connects their chassis, and so a 60 Hz AC current starts to flow between the two chassis along the RCA cable's shield. This is a tiny current, to be sure,  but nonetheless it IS a current.  And, because the preamp or amplifier is using this shield/ground as 'reference' to the audio signal on the center conductor, this AC current shows up on the input... it gets amplified and you hear it on the output as a buzzing HUM.  A buzzing hum, and not a dull hum,  because the leakage from the power transformer that sets up this current in the first place is mostly capacitively coupled, the reactance of which is allowing mostly the higher harmonics of the 60 Hz power line to pass. (The windings of a transformer have a certain amount of capacitance inherent between those windings and the metal frame of the transformer....which in turn is bolted to the chassis. A leakage current consisting of high harmonics of the AC power frequency can therefore be coupled to the chassis through this capacitance.  60 Hz in the US, Canada and others; 50 Hz in the U.K., Europe etc.)
   
  So, if you connect two chassis together by the RCA shield AND the power line 'third pin' ground, you might well get  a ground loop.
   
  With a balanced cable,  in common practice the shield is connected to ground only at the source end of the cable. The audio signal propagates along the + wire inside the cable, referenced to the - wire, not referenced to the shield as in an RCA cable.  So the two chassis are NOT connected together through the shield of a balanced audio cable as they would be when using an RCA unbalanced type cable.
   
  Also, in a balanced line, both the +  and - wires inside the cable will absorb electrical noise from the environment in equal amounts. But since one wire carries a - audio signal and the other wire carries a + signal, the two audio two signals are 180 degrees out pf phase with each other yet the induced noise will be in phase on both lines. The audio stage that receives them can REJECT any noise signal that is NOT out of phase between the + and -  inputs.  Thus any noise from EMI, power line hum, even noise induced by some MECHANICAL means, is fully rejected by a well designed balanced audio receiver stage. 
   
  Unbalanced RCA cables in consumer setups are usually fairly short, 2 meters or less, and being short they don't usually pick up too much of this kind of noise.  But recording studios and radio stations typically have audio lines that can be hundreds of feet long, so this kind of noise pickup could become an issue if balanced lines are not used.  Almost all studio type audio gear uses balanced lines for audio either on an XLR or on a TRS phone plug.
   
  Some elaborate home-theater setups benefit from the use of balanced lines also, because their complexity requires long audio cables, and because so many devices (TV set, pre/processor, power amps, cable and satellite boxes, BluRay players, audio sources, computers, game consoles, etc)  are connected together that avoiding ground loops without resorting to balanced lines becomes difficult.
   
  ALL THAT BEING SAID the main benefit of balanced lines in home audio tends to be that they help avoid ground loops. But if you connect your gear with RCA cables and have no atrocious hum issues, then you have avoided ground loops without using balanced lines.
   
  There are also some advantages possible in using balanced signal transmission and amplification all the way from source to transducer in terms of lower distortion- that is, IF all the stages are implemented properly to take advantage of the cancellation of distortion which can occur at the speaker / headphone driver when the +  and  - phases of the balanced signal "meet" in the speaker / driver. This is a less common situation, because quite often there are transitions from single ended to balanced somewhere in the reproduction chain that have outputs that are actually NOT highly symmetrical, truly "balanced" signals.


----------



## Michgelsen

Some RCA cables also have the shield connected only to one side of the cable.


----------



## Surge74

In my Oppo 95 -> Realizer A8 -> PS Audio PWDII DAC -> Woo WES -> Stax SR-009 setup, on 2 occasions there was a clipped signal being fed to the SR-009s. Worried that this may have damaged the drivers in the SR-009.  Would it be audible if damaged?
   
  On a few occasions the Realizer A8 clipped and it sounded like distorted bass in the SR-009s.  It didn't last more than 1sec each time.  I had the volume on the A8 set too high and it clipped on movie scenes with loud explosions. They don't really tell you that the A8 is susceptible to this in the manual!
   
  On a second occasion I fed the DAC unprocessed dolby digital sound, which caused loud clicking/beeping sounds.  I immediately shut off the source.
   
  The SR-009 sound fine.  Should I worry about any damage?
   
  Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





e19650826 said:


> This is new to me. Thanks for the info. I assumed that they all would have some form of regulated PSU like most comercial/DIY ones, since they are charging quite a bit for them.
> 
> still, something like 001 is much more suitable for portable use.


 
   
  The only Stax amp with a regulated PSU is the SRM-300/310.  Even the T2 was just a rectifier and a cap. 
   
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Some RCA cables also have the shield connected only to one side of the cable.


 
   
  This is true but they have to have a return wire or they won't function.  The XLR's do not need ground.


----------



## kevin gilmore

actually the new srm002 portable has a fully regulated power supply.
  But not in the same way as the 300/310


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





surge74 said:


> In my Oppo 95 -> Realizer A8 -> PS Audio PWDII DAC -> Woo WES -> Stax SR-009 setup, on 2 occasions there was a clipped signal being fed to the SR-009s. Worried that this may have damaged the drivers in the SR-009.  Would it be audible if damaged?
> 
> On a few occasions the Realizer A8 clipped and it sounded like distorted bass in the SR-009s.  It didn't last more than 1sec each time.  I had the volume on the A8 set too high and it clipped on movie scenes with loud explosions. They don't really tell you that the A8 is susceptible to this in the manual!
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes. See a neurologist as soon as possible!


----------



## Surge74

Thanks for the worthless comment. 
If ever I want to waste my time, I'll ask you for advice.


----------



## ri_toast

i think you've answered your own question, "they sound fine" In my experience I've had inappropriate levels set and experienced no damage.
  scary moment huh?


----------



## Michgelsen

Your SR-009 will be fine, don't worry about it. Digital clipping of the source will not damage the transducers. The transducers simply reproduced the distorted sound as they should.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Ahaha. Well, he may not have liked it, but I did.
   
  EDIT: It was a joke dude, cool out.
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Yes. See a neurologist as soon as possible!


----------



## singh

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Ahaha. Well, he may not have liked it, but I did.
> 
> EDIT: It was a joke dude, cool out.


 
  but i can somewhat understand , if i were to spend 5K on SR009, and were in his shoes ( worried about them having permanent damage), i'd NOT like someone joking about it.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Eh, I get it...but this is the internet after all. I'd flip if I had thought my 009s were damaged too (when I had them). 
   
  Now I'll flip if someone jokes about my speakers. 
   
  Quote: 





singh said:


> but i can somewhat understand , if i were to spend 5K on SR009, and were in his shoes ( worried about them having permanent damage), i'd NOT like someone joking about it.


----------



## e19650826

spritzer said:


> The only Stax amp with a regulated PSU is the SRM-300/310.  Even the T2 was just a rectifier and a cap.




That both surprising and disappointing! 
I was always wondering how stax managed to cram all those circuits into such small enclosures.. now it's all clear..


----------



## Surge74

singh said:


> but i can somewhat understand , if i were to spend 5K on SR009, and were in his shoes ( worried about them having permanent damage), i'd NOT like someone joking about it.




Thanks guys. It's not easy to joke online as it's hard to interpret. I know I'm somewhat "anal retentive" but after spending so much money, I'm being extra cautious I suppose.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Completely understandable.
  Quote: 





surge74 said:


> Thanks guys. It's not easy to joke online as it's hard to interpret. I know I'm somewhat "anal retentive" but after spending so much money, *I'm being extra cautious I suppose.*


----------



## gilency

Milosz, that's a very cool explanation! Thanks for taking the time.


----------



## paaj

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> i think you've answered your own question, "they sound fine" In my experience I've had inappropriate levels set and experienced no damage.
> scary moment huh?


 
   
   
  Well, I had some old Lambda's that sounded fine even with holes in the diaphragm...


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





paaj said:


> Well, I had some old Lambda's that sounded fine even with holes in the diaphragm...


 
  those must have been factory holes


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> those must have been factory holes


 
   
  CALIBRATED  holes....  
   
  I think _Machina Dynamica_ sells them.


----------



## spritzer

They are indeed funny those "sounded great to me" impressions...


----------



## autoteleology

I've actually seen multiple instances of people talking about Stax drivers with holes sounding completely normal. Maybe there's more to it than we think... odd.


----------



## shipsupt

Who's going to be first to pop some holes into their drivers?


----------



## NamelessPFG

All right, got that SR-Gamma today...
   
  ...and it's imbalanced. Damn. Not only is the right-side driver generally louder, but the left-side driver also rolls off in the bass significantly even after balancing the volume, especially at 100 Hz and below. I don't see anything immediately wrong with the left driver compared to the right, either...well, except that the left driver's inner dust guard layer seems to be roughed up in a particular spot. But that wouldn't explain the sheer imbalance I notice here...
   
  Also, the earpads are much, much shallower than I was expecting, which means my ears (pinnae if you want to get pedantic) touch the inside of the cups. Quite detracting from a comfort standpoint.
   
  Other than those flaws, first impressions are that it does sound pretty good, if more closed in than a Lambda (likely because of the shallow earcups). I just wish I knew of a way to fix that left driver so I don't have to fiddle with the balance knob on my receiver.


----------



## Nemeske88

Uh, Oh..
  My condolences. However I'm up for buying it for half the price 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote:


surge74 said:


> In my Oppo 95 -> Realizer A8 -> PS Audio PWDII DAC -> Woo WES -> Stax SR-009 setup, on 2 occasions there was a clipped signal being fed to the SR-009s. Worried that this may have damaged the drivers in the SR-009.  Would it be audible if damaged?
> 
> On a few occasions the Realizer A8 clipped and it sounded like distorted bass in the SR-009s.  It didn't last more than 1sec each time.  I had the volume on the A8 set too high and it clipped on movie scenes with loud explosions. They don't really tell you that the A8 is susceptible to this in the manual!
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I've actually seen multiple instances of people talking about Stax drivers with holes sounding completely normal. Maybe there's more to it than we think... odd.


 
   
  Anybody who says that has never heard a fully functional set.  The distortion caused by just one small hole is clearly audible.


----------



## musicman59

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Settling in with my new Head Amp KGSS (picked up in a local deal). Very impressed so far with my SR009s. Imaging seems wider (closer to my HD800s now). Bass is more robust and even tighter. It's built like pretty much everything Justin builds...solid and very professional.
> 
> Anyone interested in a MINT SRM-727II, let me know, I'll be listing it likely tomorrow.


 
  You lucky dog!
  Congrats! Great find!


----------



## oogabooga

Broken Lambda Pro driver...
   
  So I was inspecting my Lambda Pros, since the right channel sounded off. Turns out the driver had come apart - the back stator was not secured to the rest of the driver.
   
   
  The photo below shows the problem (btw, I've only kept the stator 'open' like this for a few seconds; very briefly when I realized it was broken, and again just long enough to take this photo and scan for dust on the membrane). There is no dust visible to my eyes on the membrane, and the back stator fits perfectly on the ring to which it is supposed to be glued; i.e. there are no gaps. 
   
  Anyone else fixed their stators before?
  My current thinking is to use some 2-part epoxy (LePage Marine Epoxy) around the edges to re-secure the stator, and leave some weight (an old textbook?) on top of the stator overnight while the glue settles. Thoughts?
   

   
   
  On the same topic, the 5-pin connector seems a bit oxidized - any easy way to remove the oxide?


----------



## Michgelsen

A brief dip in (nitric) acid?
   
  Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> On the same topic, the 5-pin connector seems a bit oxidized - any easy way to remove the oxide?


----------



## oogabooga

Err, nitric acid is an oxidizing agent...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





musicman59 said:


> You lucky dog!
> Congrats! Great find!


 
  Thanks! Really enjoying it so far.


----------



## MorbidToaster

Quick question. On the new Stax portables...are they more like earbuds (sit more on your ear canal) or IEM style headphones? 
   
  I can't do in ears (due to wax impact problems), but ear buds are fine and I'm pretty interested in a pair.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Quick question. On the new Stax portables...are they more like earbuds (sit more on your ear canal) or IEM style headphones?
> 
> I can't do in ears (due to wax impact problems), but ear buds are fine and I'm pretty interested in a pair.


 
  They sit on your ear canals. They don't fully go in, like how IEM's work. There are 3 tip sizes, S, M & L. Comes in whitish clear color only. You can also feel free to experiment by using normal IEM tips. Though I've never had much success with getting a good seal with the latter method mentioned. 
   
  All the best.


----------



## shipsupt

DefQon explains it well.  While a seal is important, it's very different from an IEM that needs to go deep into the ear.  I know a few users who has "IEM use issues" who are able to use the 001/002's comfortably.  They might be worth checking out for you. 
   
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> They sit on your ear canals. They don't fully go in, like how IEM's work. There are 3 tip sizes, S, M & L. Comes in whitish clear color only. You can also feel free to experiment by using normal IEM tips. Though I've never had much success with getting a good seal with the latter method mentioned.
> 
> All the best.


 
   
  Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> Quick question. On the new Stax portables...are they more like earbuds (sit more on your ear canal) or IEM style headphones?
> 
> I can't do in ears (due to wax impact problems), but ear buds are fine and I'm pretty interested in a pair.


----------



## Michgelsen

You're right, but it does dissolve the oxides well.
  Either way, my post was only quasi-serious, because it's quite hazardous stuff and it's likely that the poisonous NO2 will form.
  Best and safest way is probably to use mechanic action with a cotton swab stick and a very fine abbrasive powder such as chalk in water, or a commercial product ('polish') based on such a very fine abbrasive.
  Alternatively, you can try a long bath in EDTA.
  Whatever you do, rinse well afterwards, with water and optionally with alcohol after that.
   
  Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> Err, nitric acid is an oxidizing agent...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> Broken Lambda Pro driver...
> 
> So I was inspecting my Lambda Pros, since the right channel sounded off. Turns out the driver had come apart - the back stator was not secured to the rest of the driver.
> 
> ...


 
   
  First off, don't use epoxy, nasty stuff and it's way too liquid.  Use polyurethane, that's what Stax used and what most ESL builders use as well. 
   
  Now for the bad part, your plan involves adding another layer of glue on top of one already there and that messes with the D/S gap on one side of the driver and thus knocks it out of balance.  Distortion rises pretty quickly when doing that but you might be lucky and pull it off with a tiny amount of glue. 
   
  For the pins, just get something like Brasso and polish them.


----------



## rolandmsv

Quote: 





cucera said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> I own a 303 with leather pads and an SRM 1 MK 2. Now I want to upgrade gradually. I am thinking about a 407 or 405. Would that be an enhancement, or do I have to upgrade the amp first?


 
  Never heard 303, but was comparing 307 and 407 with 323S amp, as a result - waiting for my 407's delivery($565 shipped from Japan, it's a steal for that sound). 407 has more extended bass and treble, and also lack of upper-midrange harshness I heard in 307. Personally, I think SRM1/MK2pro + SR-407 is the best way to spend $1000. Sorry for delayed answer, but seem's other guy's more intrested in loops and holes


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





defqon said:


> They sit on your ear canals. They don't fully go in, like how IEM's work. There are 3 tip sizes, S, M & L. Comes in whitish clear color only. You can also feel free to experiment by using normal IEM tips. Though I've never had much success with getting a good seal with the latter method mentioned.
> 
> All the best.


 
  I just demo'd the 002, and they have silicone tips that go in the ear, not on the ear.  I had to use a silicone tip from another pair of IEMs to get a good seal.  when I did, they were incredible.  you cant get them as deep as a small IEM, but they definitely go in your ear.  so I'm confused by the posts of it going on the ear.


----------



## justin w.

what other tips did you try?


----------



## NamelessPFG

Letting music play for a while through the SR-Gamma isn't fixing the imbalance problem at all.
   
  Doesn't matter if I drive the Gamma by itself, the Gamma and Lambda together, or swap the ports they're plugged in. Left-side driver is still distressingly weak, while the Lambda sounds balanced as usual.
   
  I'll probably just have to cut my losses on this one...at least the housing, pads, and cable are in great enough condition for people to consider driver swaps.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> what other tips did you try?


 
  Hey justin,  I outlined it in the demo thread.


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Hey justin,  I outlined it in the demo thread.


 
  Here, for those who don't feel like searching:
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/645941/headamp-headphone-demos-audeze-hifiman-stax-sign-up-now/255#post_9150997


----------



## padam

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Letting music play for a while through the SR-Gamma isn't fixing the imbalance problem at all.
> 
> Doesn't matter if I drive the Gamma by itself, the Gamma and Lambda together, or swap the ports they're plugged in. Left-side driver is still distressingly weak, while the Lambda sounds balanced as usual.
> 
> I'll probably just have to cut my losses on this one...at least the housing, pads, and cable are in great enough condition for people to consider driver swaps.


 
  The diaphragm is obviously damaged (an adapter is capable of overdriving it so it starts arcing)
  But you can always try to do a return in those cases, and get another one after that. Unless it was advertised as defective in the first place, it should be accepted.
  Of if the price was low in the first place, it may worth it for the parts alone.


----------



## gilency

The slight forward rotation recommendation is in the instruction booklet that comes with the 002's.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> I just demo'd the 002, and they have silicone tips that go in the ear, not on the ear.  I had to use a silicone tip from another pair of IEMs to get a good seal.  when I did, they were incredible.  you cant get them as deep as a small IEM, but they definitely go in your ear.  so I'm confused by the posts of it going on the ear.


 
  Interesting, because the provided tips (assuming you tried the one's that are oval shaped with a self protruding tips) they don't go into your ear canals like normal IEM's, they sit outside your ear canal. This is evident by it's design. Unless you tried the new black Stax tips which imo are horrible compared to the original clear ones.
   
  New tips:

   
   
   
  Old Tips (from the other Stax thread):


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *DefQon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 
   
  I have the mk1s. For me I'd say it's borderline whether it goes in your ear canal or not - they pretty much sit on the edge and seal them off.


----------



## DefQon

Yep ^.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





padam said:


> The diaphragm is obviously damaged (an adapter is capable of overdriving it so it starts arcing)
> But you can always try to do a return in those cases, and get another one after that. Unless it was advertised as defective in the first place, it should be accepted.
> Of if the price was low in the first place, it may worth it for the parts alone.


 
   
  Here's the problem: sold as-is in the description, no return policy. The seller had no adapter to test it with, hence that.
   
  The only loophole I can think of is that it was listed as "Used", which in eBay parlance means that it "is fully operational and functions as intended". Were it listed as "For parts or repair", which implies it may not be working as intended (and which I will always do with an imbalanced set), then I'd be totally hosed...
   
  Regardless, my questions about the Normal bias Gammas are now answered. Respectable-sounding (if balanced) with a smaller soundstage than the Lambda line, but those shallow earcups and my big ears (pinnae) just do not get along at all.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Here's the problem: sold as-is in the description, no return policy. The seller had no adapter to test it with, hence that.
> 
> The only loophole I can think of is that it was listed as "Used", which in eBay parlance means that it "is fully operational and functions as intended". Were it listed as "For parts or repair", which implies it may not be working as intended (and which I will always do with an imbalanced set), then I'd be totally hosed...
> 
> Regardless, my questions about the Normal bias Gammas are now answered. Respectable-sounding (if balanced) with a smaller soundstage than the Lambda line, but those shallow earcups and my big ears (pinnae) just do not get along at all.


 
  It should have been advertised as junk/defective if the seller is not sure about whether it works or not.
  It happened to me a few times but in every case I managed to do the return and just loose the return shipping on it so one shouldn't be afraid of doing that.
  When they say returns accepted that means you can even do that if it is fully working and you simply don't like it, changed your mind etc.


----------



## milosz

Polishing pins:
   
  On fancy gear, or any gold-plated connectors / pins with surfaces that are not terribly pitted or scored, I like to use a Dremel rotary tool with a WOOL FELT BUFF.   Don't use too many RPM or too much pressure, you don't want to burn the felt. Burned felt is CARBON, which is too abrasive.
   
   

  http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-POLISHING-ROTARY-BURRS-DREMEL/dp/B004H46PWW/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
   
  I don't use any abrasive - no polish or etc - when polishing gold plated stuff.
   
  If the connector is tinned and not gold plated, or is steel and not plated, I like to use a little Mother's "Billet" metal polish on the felt point. Or, for more cutting power, some jeweler's rouge (don't use very much!)  If corrosion is really serious,  I'll use a rubber polishing point.  The rubber has some light abrasive embedded in it.
   
  This is a rubber polishing point, though it looks a little like a grinding stone it is indeed rubber.
  It's not as abrasive as it looks, though it is more abrasive than felt or cotton.

  http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-463-Rubber-Polishing-Point/dp/B00004UDHR/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z
   
  The rubber polishing points have rather fine tips that come in handy in various small spaces.
   
  I've drilled a very fine hole in the dead center of  one rubber polishing bit, this can be used to  polish crusty 9 pin tube pins by fitting the pins one by one into the hole and running the Dremel at low RPM.  One has to be careful with this- you don't want the spinning tool to grab the tube and hurl it into low earth orbit....


----------



## jjinh

polishing pins?? okay.....


----------



## DefQon

Some de-oxit and abrasive paper would do.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> polishing pins?? okay.....


 
  Some old tubes get really nasty crusty pins, this is noisy in phono preamp circuits and so on.
   
  For example- a stock Telefunken 12AX7 tube sitting in a damp basement for 50 years stuck in the cheap socket of a Dynaco preamp  can have junk from the tube socket contacts actually corrode itself onto the tube's steel pins.  A Telefunken 12AX7 is worth about $30~40 these days, it's worth cleaning up if you come across one with gunked-up pins


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Some de-oxit and abrasive paper would do.


 
  Not a good idea to use abrasives on gold plated surfaces.
   
  A little strip of fine emery cloth and a bit of De-Ox-It is fine for the steel pins of a tube, but with my Dremel and the rubber polishing bit with the hole, I can quickly clean up a whole bunch of tubes when I come across some old relic from a basement or garage find.  Lot of good tubes in old audio gear moldering away in basements. 
   
  Some rotten old Packard-Bell "Hi Fi" console from 1958 might not be a good restoration project, but stuff like that contains useful tubes.


----------



## DefQon

Well obviously you wouldn't want to use on gold plated surfaces - common sense really. I'm talking about cack/rust build-up on the normal Stax tip's esp those from vintage models.


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> First off, don't use epoxy, nasty stuff and it's way too liquid.  Use polyurethane, that's what Stax used and what most ESL builders use as well.
> 
> Now for the bad part, your plan involves adding another layer of glue on top of one already there and that messes with the D/S gap on one side of the driver and thus knocks it out of balance.  Distortion rises pretty quickly when doing that but you might be lucky and pull it off with a tiny amount of glue.
> 
> For the pins, just get something like Brasso and polish them.


 
   
   
   
  I looked more closely and didn't see very much glue between the stator ring and diaphragm ring. Instead, there is quite a bit of glue at about four points around the sides of the diaphragm/stator rings, and I could see how this glue had separated from the stator ring.
  Two tiny bits of this glue had bent in such a way that they were between the diaphragm and stator rings; I carefully pushed them out of the way. Now, the diaphragm and stator sit perfectly against each other, with no visible gap. 
   
  I clamped the back stator to the rest of the assembly and made sure everything was flush. Then I 'painted' a thin layer of Gorilla Glue around the sides, and left it clamped overnight. Later today I will put the drivers back in the cups and listen!


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Jay, you know how discussions about cables always end.
> Its like having a pro lifer trying to convert a prochoice to their point of view.
> Or an amicable conversation between a capitalist and a communist.
> It's just that is not going to end well.


 
  They end badly if the person with the biggest axe to grind tells the other person he didn't hear what he said he did.  Usually that's the anti-cable, "everything sounds the same lobby."  For some headphones nothing much is going to change the sound but with most Stax just about everything you do will affect the sound.
   
  I am interested in the results of serious listening and serious measurement and will apply whatever caveats to such results that I feel are needed.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Here's the problem: sold as-is in the description, no return policy. The seller had no adapter to test it with, hence that.
> 
> The only loophole I can think of is that it was listed as "Used", which in eBay parlance means that it "is fully operational and functions as intended". Were it listed as "For parts or repair", which implies it may not be working as intended (and which I will always do with an imbalanced set), then I'd be totally hosed...
> 
> Regardless, my questions about the Normal bias Gammas are now answered. Respectable-sounding (if balanced) with a smaller soundstage than the Lambda line, but those shallow earcups and my big ears (pinnae) just do not get along at all.


 
   That "no adapter or no amp" excuse is just a cop-out.  I would consider it a total crap-shoot as to whether the phones work when sold that way.
  Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I looked more closely and didn't see very much glue between the stator ring and diaphragm ring. Instead, there is quite a bit of glue at about four points around the sides of the diaphragm/stator rings, and I could see how this glue had separated from the stator ring.
> Two tiny bits of this glue had bent in such a way that they were between the diaphragm and stator rings; I carefully pushed them out of the way. Now, the diaphragm and stator sit perfectly against each other, with no visible gap.
> 
> I clamped the back stator to the rest of the assembly and made sure everything was flush. Then I 'painted' a thin layer of Gorilla Glue around the sides, and left it clamped overnight. Later today I will put the drivers back in the cups and listen!


 
   Good luck let us know how this works.
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I have the mk1s. For me I'd say it's borderline whether it goes in your ear canal or not - they pretty much sit on the edge and seal them off.


 
   I don't know about the new tips but on the older phones, I preferred the smaller tips initially because the large ones made the sound too bassy.  However the large ones were more comfortable and I realized that you can adjust the bass by breaking the seal with a small rotation of the driver unit if needed.


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I noticed a problem today with my Stax SR-303. Whenever very low bass notes/tones play, I hear a very loud rattle unless I press the earspeakers against my head. It's so loud that I can hear it without placing the headphones fully on my head. What is going on?
> 
> I am freaking out right now. My AKG K167 broke literally yesterday, I can't handle my only remaining headphone having obnoxious problems like this.


 
   
  So when I opened up a pair of Lambda-Pros recently, I noticed one driver had separated from its baffle. I used double-sided tape to reattach the driver to the baffle. It's odd that your rattle is taking place in BOTH ears, but it's possible that both drivers have become separated from their baffles. If, on the other hand, the drivers have come apart internally (as it did with me a few posts back), you'll have a big repair on your hands.
   
   
  On most Lambdas, going from your ear outwards, you have the earpad, foam or cloth cover (usually part of the earpad), baffle, driver, more foam, and the back grille. The earpad and driver are stuck either side of the baffle with double-sided tape, while the baffle is screwed to the back grille (the screws are on each corner of the earcup; gently lift the corners of the earpad to access the screws).  Complicating matters slightly is the cable, which slots into a notch on the bottom of the back grille. The cable is soldered to the driver, so never pull on it.
   
   
*You could try the following, but I would wait to see the advice of others first, as I am not an expert:*
  To open the earcup, unplug the headphones from the amp, undo all four screws and then gently remove the back grill, making sure you don't strain the cable in any way. The driver should be stuck firmly to the baffle. If not, you will need to re-adhere it using double-sided tape. Try to clean off as much of the old sticky tape as possible, using a plastic edge, like a credit card. No water, liquids, etc. Also, when 'scraping', always scrape outwards, so that none of the junk you scrape off has a chance to get on the driver. Then apply double-sided tape to the edge of the driver (see my next post) reposition it, and put everything back together.


----------



## oogabooga

Good news about my Lambda Pro driver restoration!
   
  Before reattaching the newly-glued driver to its baffle, I compared the thickness of both drivers using a micrometer. The driver I re-glued was 10.74 mm in thickness, while the other, undamaged driver was about 10.69 mm in thickness (both numbers are an average of measurements at three different points around the edge of the driver). The 0.05 mm difference is more likely due to measurement error than anything else, as there was still a small amount of tape residue on the front edge of the drivers, etc. It would appear that by gluing around the edge I didn't change the D/S gap enough to affect the sound (and I do not hear any channel imbalance or distortion).
   
  I then used some Hercules Tap (1/8" thick double-sided tape, $2.50/roll) around the front edge of the driver. The tape doesn't really curve so you have to cut it in segments (after taking the photo below I still had to do a bit of trimming of excess tape). The tape is quite tacky but you can still reposition the driver if you don't apply too much force. After centring the drivers, I used a couple of thick paperback books (nothing too heavy!) to help the tape set.
   
   
   
   
  I put everything back together and it sounds great. No channel imbalance or distortion I can hear of, and incredibly detailed! The Lambda Pros are currently going head-to-head with my 404LEs - they are sonically different, but both very enjoyable!


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I put everything back together and it sounds great. No channel imbalance or distortion I can hear of, and incredibly detailed! The Lambda Pros are currently going head-to-head with my 404LEs - they are sonically different, but both very enjoyable!


 
   
  *thumbs up!*


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Some old tubes get really nasty crusty pins, this is noisy in phono preamp circuits and so on.
> 
> For example- a stock Telefunken 12AX7 tube sitting in a damp basement for 50 years stuck in the cheap socket of a Dynaco preamp  can have junk from the tube socket contacts actually corrode itself onto the tube's steel pins.  A Telefunken 12AX7 is worth about $30~40 these days, it's worth cleaning up if you come across one with gunked-up pins


 
   
  Werent you talking about stax connector pins, not vacuum tubes or valves - that's definitely what I was talking about.
   
  I dont have crusty pins on my Stax. Looking at a pair of them right now they do not appear to be dire need of a polish using a dremel tool, or re-plating for that matter. I think I'll leave them alone.


----------



## livewire

*QUOTE: *_"__I put everything back together and it sounds great. No channel imbalance or distortion I can hear of, and incredibly detailed! The Lambda Pros are currently going head-to-head with my 404LEs - they are sonically different, but both very enjoyable!"_ 
   
Most excellent! <<two thumbs-way up!>>


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Werent you talking about stax connector pins, not vacuum tubes or valves - that's definitely what I was talking about.
> 
> I dont have crusty pins on my Stax. Looking at a pair of them right now they do not appear to be dire need of a polish using a dremel tool, or re-plating for that matter. I think I'll leave them alone.


 
  I wasn't talking about Stax pins specifically. I just pointed out that I use flannel buffing points when needed on gold pins (of any kind) without any compound.  With pins that are tinned, or silver plated, etc, I might use a dab of Mothers' "Billet" polish on the felt point. Of course I only polish pins that need it-  if you wiggle the connector (any connector, any pins) and get crackling sounds. then it stands to reason you need to look at the pins to see if they're corroded. Corroded pins aren't the only cause of crackly / noisy connections, but they are one cause. 
   
  I don't use the rubber points, as a rule, on anything but steel, typically nine-pin tube pins.  
   
  My post was a reply to this question:
   
Originally Posted by *oogabooga* 




 On the same topic, the 5-pin connector seems a bit oxidized - any easy way to remove the oxide?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





livewire said:


> *QUOTE: *_"__I put everything back together and it sounds great. No channel imbalance or distortion I can hear of, and incredibly detailed! The Lambda Pros are currently going head-to-head with my 404LEs - they are sonically different, but both very enjoyable!"_
> 
> Most excellent! <<two thumbs-way up!>>


 
   
  Indeed.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> They end badly if the person with the biggest axe to grind tells the other person he didn't hear what he said he did.  Usually that's the anti-cable, "everything sounds the same lobby."  For some headphones nothing much is going to change the sound but with most Stax just about everything you do will affect the sound.
> 
> I am interested in the results of serious listening and serious measurement and will apply whatever caveats to such results that I feel are needed.


 
  No ax to grind, just making sure there is an opposite point of view. After all, may newbies may want to purchase expensive cables that may not offer much benefit based on enthusiastic and subjective recommendations.


----------



## MB2sHs9N

Regarding the Ampzilla with the Electrostatic Headphone option:
   
  I wrote to the seller and here is the reply:
   
I'm not sure of anything more about the specifics to the electrostatic option on this amplifier I do know that this a.m. has been billed to the highest standards and I have spoken with the person in charge of quality control on these particular in and he seems to think they are of the highest caliber.
   
  It's a cool idea, the Ampzilla was a top-rated amp in its day. For $1,599 "Buy It Now" I will be very surprised if it sells.
   
  Close examination of the photo shows a switch on the front marked "Dynamic/Electrostatic"; the grey cable looks like it could be the electrostatic output.
   
  Even in the 1970s when this amp came out, Stax was pretty much the only game in town.  I would like to know whether the output is Pro or Standard but at that price I won't bother.
   
  May be just the ticket for somebody.  Here's the link to the auction:
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/GAS-Ampzilla-IIa-2a-Power-Amplifier-son-grandson-ii-Electrostatic-Headphone-/251011124913?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a716dceb1
   
  He's in San Diego; maybe someone local can let us know!


----------



## MB2sHs9N

Quote: 





milosz said:


> GAS Ampzilla with jacks for electrostatic headphones?
> 
> A GAS  Ampzilla II is for sale on eBay, the description says "[size=small]This is the model with the Electrostatic headphone jack."[/size]
> 
> ...


 
  Followup:
   
  Here are some reputable experts who might know.  I did not realize earlier that milosz' post was from last year.
   

"Mark Wilson, who does all of GAS and SAE work is your man. However, he recently lost his dad, and his repair schedule is behind. Contact him at:

restoration@absoundlabs.com or AbSoundLabs@sihope.com

He will do a good job of getting your 'Son back to life.

Mike Zuccaro is also a GAS and SAE specialist (both of these guys are recommended by James Bongiorno, founder and designer of GAS and SAE)

Mjzuccaro@aol.com Tel. 858-271-8294"
   
I believe Mr. Zuccaro is in San Diego as is the Ebay seller listed above.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I happen to own an original ampzilla, what a wonderful amp. Especially for the
  time. Needs new electrolytics bigtime.
   
  The electrostatic thing must be a pair of added transformers somewhere in the
  case. (where I don't know, not much room in there), because this is not
  a balanced amp, even though it is voltage stacked, into a high impedance
  load it probably can put out 150vpp.
   
  A pair of ampzilla's wired as bridged mono would definitely work, but not be
  very loud. Similar to running stax headphones directly on a fpb600.
   
  It its an original addon, that is at least 15 years before high bias headphones
  came out.


----------



## MB2sHs9N

Correction:
   
  On the Ampzilla IIa, the electrostatic feature is an additional jack on the front of the amp; please see the brochure at:
   
  http://www.davidsaudio.com/html/gas_brochures_1.html
   
  It looks like a regular 1/4 inch stereo jack.
   
  That enormous grey cord on the back is the power cord.
   
  I think we need to hear from an Ampzilla II owner to solve this mystery!
   
  Thanks Kevin!


----------



## autoteleology

I am so lost. I opened up my SR-303 Lambdas to find that the drivers were in flawless shape. I removed the outside foams on the small chance that it might alleviate the rattling issue but nothing has changed.

 My driver unit is an SRM-Xh... could the driver itself be the issue here? I know it's pretty much the lowest end as far as STAX amps go...

 I feel pretty bad about buying this unit right now. I emptied my pockets to get it and now I can't enjoy it, and I can't sell it to someone else in good faith without fixing this problem.


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I am so lost. I opened up my SR-303 Lambdas to find that the drivers were in flawless shape. I removed the outside foams on the small chance that it might alleviate the rattling issue but nothing has changed.
> 
> My driver unit is an SRM-Xh... could the driver itself be the issue here? I know it's pretty much the lowest end as far as STAX amps go...
> 
> I feel pretty bad about buying this unit right now. I emptied my pockets to get it and now I can't enjoy it, and I can't sell it to someone else in good faith without fixing this problem.


 
   
  Since your problem was with both the left and right channels, my first thought was that your amp might have some issues (perhaps power issues)?  However, when you mentioned that you "hear a very loud rattle unless I press the earspeakers against my head" I thought it might be an issue with the drivers.   
   
   
  The SRM-Xh uses an AC adapter, right? About the only thing you could do without opening up the amp is to check the DC output of that adapter. Otherwise I'd just wait until your next chance to plug your headphones into another amp.


----------



## autoteleology

Wait a moment. I've figured it out.

 It's not the driver that's malfunctioning, it's the housing. The back grills, or something else, must be rattling. That's why it stops when I press the housing to my head.

 It all makes sense now... but what can I do about it, and what parts might be causing the issue? I'm like the Beach Boys, I don't want any bad vibrations.


----------



## n3rdling

It's the headphones not the amp...Does it make the rattle with no music playing?  If music has to play for it to happen, does it increase along with an increase in music volume?  Is the rattle a high or low pitch?  It might not rattle if you make the headband a little tighter for the time being.


----------



## autoteleology

I finally figured out what was been causing the problem all along.

 If you take off the pads and the dust mesh under the pads, there's a metal grille underneath that separates the ear from the driver and dust cover. The problem with my Lambda is that the mesh had been bent inwards by use to the point where it was impacting the dust cover and causing resonances.
   
  I fixed the issue by taking the sharp point of a pair of scissors and pulling the mesh up and off of the dust cover (the mesh came up by a significant amount). Rattle is completely gone and I am relieved beyond words.

 Thank you all for your help


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I finally figured out what was been causing the problem all along.
> 
> If you take off the pads and the dust mesh under the pads, there's a metal grille underneath that separates the ear from the driver and dust cover. The problem with my Lambda is that the mesh had been bent inwards by use to the point where it was impacting the dust cover and causing resonances.
> 
> ...


 
  Jeebers - that wire mesh shouldn't bend at all with normal use. Sounds like someone pushed it in.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





mb2shs9n said:


> Correction:
> 
> On the Ampzilla IIa, the electrostatic feature is an additional jack on the front of the amp; please see the brochure at:
> 
> ...


 
   
  Now I remember. It is for these specific headphones
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/234504/koss-esp6-refurbished-vintage-electrostatics
   
  which had the transformers in the headsets.
   
  this amp would definitely drive he6 and k1000.
  probably set them on fire too.


----------



## DefQon

Yay to the two posters above fixing the problems with there Stax.


----------



## bearFNF

Yeah, I may have to follow their lead and get to work on my normal bias lambdas.  I need to replace the foam in the earpeaice and one of the gimbles has a crack.  Been a little leary of tearing them a part to do the work as they 'work' just fine as they are...
  But it would be nice to 're-furb' the old dudes.  Now just need to get the parts....


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yay to the two posters above fixing the problems with there Stax.


 
   
  I also give my congrats, seeing as my SR-303 driver re-gluing attempt still resulted in a very imbalanced headphone in spite of my best attempts, and I definitely don't feel like tearing down that SR-Gamma's drivers and rebuilding them so they sound balanced. (Especially when the Gamma frame's shallow earcups make for a very uncomfortable experience compared to the Lambda frame's deep earpads.)
   
  Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Yeah, I may have to follow their lead and get to work on my normal bias lambdas.  I need to replace the foam in the earpeaice and one of the gimbles has a crack.  Been a little leary of tearing them a part to do the work as they 'work' just fine as they are...
> But it would be nice to 're-furb' the old dudes.  Now just need to get the parts....


 
   
  In all likeliness, you won't find any replacement foam, just newer Lambda pads with cloth in the foam's place.
   
  As for the gimbals having a crack, that bites, especially with vintage Lambda headband/arc assemblies being in shorter supply...but it's said that if you can pull out the bits that the vintage headband/arc forks socket into, then you'll be left with a hole large enough for the pins of the newer Nova/numerical arc forks. Whether you can tolerate the higher clamping force is another question entirely.


----------



## itshot

I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I just don't have the time to look this up atm...
   
  I'm thinking of trying my hand at my first stax setup just to get a taste of what stats are like - I'm thinking sr-lambda. So my question is, what is a decent/going price for a used sr-lambda with the srd adapter?


----------



## n3rdling

probably around 300 if you can find one


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





itshot said:


> I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I just don't have the time to look this up atm...
> 
> I'm thinking of trying my hand at my first stax setup just to get a taste of what stats are like - I'm thinking sr-lambda. So my question is, what is a decent/going price for a used sr-lambda with the srd adapter?


 
   
  $300 to $400.
   
  IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
  That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Now I remember. It is for these specific headphones
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/234504/koss-esp6-refurbished-vintage-electrostatics
> 
> ...


 
   

  Ahhh, that makes perfect sense.   The DYNAMIC headphone jack on the Ampzilla  would have the usual series resistors, and the ELECTROSTATIC jack would either have smaller resistors or NO resistors.  The ESP-6  really could NOT be driven from a normal headphone jack to any decent level, what a silly idea to put transformers inside the earcups and a standard 1/4" TRS plug on the things....


----------



## oogabooga

livewire said:


> IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
> That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.




Agreed. This kit is an excellent introduction to Stax.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Ahhh, that makes perfect sense.   The DYNAMIC headphone jack on the Ampzilla  would have the usual series resistors, and the ELECTROSTATIC jack would either have smaller resistors or NO resistors.  The ESP-6  really could NOT be driven from a normal headphone jack to any decent level, what a silly idea to put transformers inside the earcups and a standard 1/4" TRS plug on the things....


 
   
  The ESP6 is nothing if not a torture device.  At almost 1kg, a tiny headband and ample clamping force it's not a pleasant experience.  Sounds like crap too compared to a Stax SR-1 or SR-3 of the same vintage.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

SRM-717.  Anyone have a way to explain exactly how the "loop/parallel" function works AND about the RCA/XLR switch?  The other night it really took me for a spin, kinda hard to describe other than it did not work as I would predict in any way shape or form.  IE the RCA/XLR switch really didn't do much of anything and at one point I think the loop was working as I would expect it to then after a power cycle it did not.  It was really late and a long day however...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





itshot said:


> I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I just don't have the time to look this up atm...
> 
> I'm thinking of trying my hand at my first stax setup just to get a taste of what stats are like - I'm thinking sr-lambda. So my question is, what is a decent/going price for a used sr-lambda with the srd adapter?


 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> $300 to $400.
> 
> IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
> That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.


 
   
  Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> Agreed. This kit is an excellent introduction to Stax.


 
   
  This is good advice but some of the old low bias Stax are interesting, especially the SR5, SRXIII and Sigma.   The first 2 you might get cheap. 
   
  However the Sigmas keep going up.  This guy's asking 849 Euros for a pro, about $1,100.00.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-Sigma-Professional-580-V-5-Pin-/300875031852?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item460d8ca52c That's  a deal because this guy's asking $1,299.00 for  a normal bias model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-minor-headband-problem-/121084184659?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c312e0853 .


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> SRM-717.  Anyone have a way to explain exactly how the "loop/parallel" function works AND about the RCA/XLR switch?  The other night it really took me for a spin, kinda hard to describe other than it did not work as I would predict in any way shape or form.  IE the RCA/XLR switch really didn't do much of anything and at one point I think the loop was working as I would expect it to then after a power cycle it did not.  It was really late and a long day however...


 
   
  Important to know is that the amp has in fact only one input. This means:
  - there can only be one source connected to the amp at any time.
  - the switch is not an actual selector such as you would find on a preamp, or on certain Stax tube amps. It simply provides the option to use *either *RCA or XLR for maximum compatibility; you cannot use both at the same time.
   
  The loop/parallel function works simply by connecting the two pairs of RCA connectors of the amp to each other. If you were to open up the amp, you would see that both terminals for each channel are soldered together (left to left, and right to right). In essence, this is nothing more than a splitter behind the casing. Here the same rule applies: there can only be one source connected at a time. It also follows that it doesn't matter to which of the two pairs that source is connected. Both pairs are connected anyway. When using a splitter it also doesn't matter which cable goes where exactly. Additionally, this 'splitter' is completely passive and therefore it works even when the amplifier is turned off.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> This is good advice but some of the old low bias Stax are interesting, especially the SR5, SRXIII and Sigma.   The first 2 you might get cheap.
> 
> However the Sigmas keep going up.  This guy's asking 849 Euros for a pro, about $1,100.00.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-Sigma-Professional-580-V-5-Pin-/300875031852?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item460d8ca52c That's  a deal because this guy's asking $1,299.00 for  a normal bias model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-minor-headband-problem-/121084184659?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c312e0853 .


 
  That guy phonitor recently had his name changed from musicshen who is someone banned from here for massively flipping sales. Supposedly those Sigma's were purchased from another user in this thread for almost half the price.


----------



## autoteleology

> That guy phonitor recently had his name changed from musicshen who is someone banned from here for massively flipping sales. Supposedly those Sigma's were purchased from another user in this thread for almost half the price.


 
   
  Show me some proof of this and I'll shoot off a message to the seller. I hate flippers, they're leeches on the hobby.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Show me some proof of this and I'll shoot off a message to the seller. I hate flippers, they're leeches on the hobby.


 
  Not sure your message is going to help, he's been doing this for a long time now.


----------



## autoteleology

Eh, it's really for my own catharsis than the hope of him changing anything (why should he care when he makes hundreds of dollars from the results of his scumbaggery?)


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Show me some proof of this and I'll shoot off a message to the seller. I hate flippers, they're leeches on the hobby.


 
  While I don't have physical evidence and with my message removed by ebay coming as seller doesn't exist, I know it's musicshen because of his feedback rating and the 2 negatives he received, location where he is located in CA which is the location Currawong posted in a thread on these boards of sellers/flippers banned to avoid. I believe takaoto also purchased his vintage Sony DR-Z5 off him as I watched the item listed on sale for months and the fact that he is the one selling the overpriced pink driver RS1's already mentioned in this thread few pages back:
   
  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-A-Grado-RS1-headphones-with-pink-Drivers-with-wood-box-Perfect-condition-/121083878729?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c31295d49&_uhb=1#ht_536wt_1151
   
  And I have been following and looking at all the can's and amps his listed up for sale. I'm the perfect eBay lurker doing my duty 5 hours a day.
   
  Even if you report his to eBay it's no point. eBay themselves are as scumbaggery and dodgy as the seller himself, because of people like musicshen, eBay can make more money. It's sad I know.


----------



## gilency

regarding this one:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-minor-headband-problem-/121084184659?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c312e0853
  I think this is the guy I unwittingly sold my normal Bias Sigma. He is from El Cerrito, took down the previous add and now resurfaced with a new one without the SRD7. Could be wrong but doubt it.
  Funny, I had it on sale here for 550.00 including a brand new SRD7, and was told 550.00 was asking too much for it and had no serious offers until he sent me a pm. Wish I would have known he was an ebayflipper.


----------



## Maxvla

Yeah that's gogators Aka: nkkuma/nkkuma1/socialscene/faithmore/leixingzhe

He sold me a pair of SR-007 that had the leather falling off in pieces and claimed they were in perfect condition. Pictures were dark and misleading. Managed to salvage a little money from him to offset the cost of new leather pieces basically taking it to near mint condition afterwards.

He was kicked out of the recent SF Bay area meet.


----------



## gilency

Wow! he had the nerve to show up? which ID tag was he wearing? LOL


----------



## Maxvla

CEE TEE recognized him and tried to give him his name tag. He left instead.


----------



## itshot

Hmm... took me a while before I got the scarlet letter reference.


----------



## gilency

ha! thats is very funny!
  Are you pulling my leg? It'd be great if you guys really had an ID like that.


----------



## Maxvla

> Gogators shows up and sneaks past the registration desk when he arrived at the meet. I followed him and ask if he wanted to check in at the front, and he said "oh, I'm not a Head-Fi member, my friend told me I could show up". At this point, I didn't know if he was Gogators or not.
> 
> Apparently CEE TEE recognized him while he was walking around the meet, and yanks him out of the listening room. He brought him to the front desk and asks him, "hey, where is your name tag?"
> 
> ...


----------



## ALSO

Sorry to shift gears, but a question for the experts--  Since last showing up on this thread, I've managed to shed everything and start over with a new 007A and a used 007 to go along with a 404LE and several older STAX phones.  I'm still running everything through a used T1, which sounds really nice, and a Luxman DAC, which I also picked up used.  I am going to upgrade the components slowly and if at all possible carefully, while putting funds aside for a 009 and more powerful amp and DAC, but I was wondering, should I be looking at one of the current STAX drivers, the 007tA or 727A to drive the 007 and 007A?  The prices are so much better here in Japan, and I've found a number of them used.  Will it make a big difference from the T1, or is the money better spent elsewhere?  At the moment I see several used 007tAs here for about US$1,200.  Thanks in advance for your thoughts--


----------



## itshot

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> We all thought it was extra special that CEE TEE was the one who kicked him out, because anyone who has met CEE TEE will agree that he is THE friendliest, most cheerful and bubbly dude you will ever meet.


 
  Amen.


----------



## gilency

Thanks for the story. One of the best I have read around here


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The ESP6 is nothing if not a torture device.  At almost 1kg, a tiny headband and ample clamping force it's not a pleasant experience.  Sounds like crap too compared to a Stax SR-1 or SR-3 of the same vintage.


 
   
  Don't forget the rigid vinyl, incompressible silicone-filled earpads....
   
   
  One of those "What were they thinking...?"  products.


----------



## DefQon

That is the funniest story I've read in a long while.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Important to know is that the amp has in fact only one input. This means:
> - there can only be one source connected to the amp at any time.
> - the switch is not an actual selector such as you would find on a preamp, or on certain Stax tube amps. It simply provides the option to use *either *RCA or XLR for maximum compatibility; you cannot use both at the same time.
> 
> The loop/parallel function works simply by connecting the two pairs of RCA connectors of the amp to each other. If you were to open up the amp, you would see that both terminals for each channel are soldered together (left to left, and right to right). In essence, this is nothing more than a splitter behind the casing. Here the same rule applies: there can only be one source connected at a time. It also follows that it doesn't matter to which of the two pairs that source is connected. Both pairs are connected anyway. When using a splitter it also doesn't matter which cable goes where exactly. Additionally, this 'splitter' is completely passive and therefore it works even when the amplifier is turned off.


 
   
  Indeed, the only thing the RCA-XLR switch does is ground the - pin of the RCA so the amp works as it should.  Same thing a RCA/XLR adapter does. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Don't forget the rigid vinyl, incompressible silicone-filled earpads....
> 
> 
> One of those "What were they thinking...?"  products.


 
   
  The design is a kinda cool though if not close to the Stax levels of awesome.  The ESP6 being closed would have backwave issues so Koss simply grounded the - stators and only drove the + stators.  Very high ratio transformers and a "regulated" bias supply (zener string).  I really like the overload indicators, so bloody simple it isn't even funny.


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Thanks guys, so to recap and to make sure I have it right:
   
  -Should ideally have only one source connected - either XLR or RCA but not both at the same time
  -The parallel RCA's are one in the same and can act as a loop out (and nothing to do with the XLR inputs as the first point is in effect)
  -The XLR/RCA switch is not a switch for swapping sources but will ground the - leg of the XLR
   
  Additional questions:
   
  -What benefit is it to use that XLR switch to ground the cold leg of the XLR?  My cables are ground/hot/cold so I need to re-configure them still.
  -If I use a tubed pre-amp would this degrade the output level originally from the source?  Is it smarter just to go straight from source or is it a matter of preference?  (PWDmk2 -> EBCA -> 717 -> o2mk1/009)


----------



## oogabooga

Your first three points are right to me.
   
   
  As for your additional questions, I can't see any benefit to using the XLR switch to ground the cold leg of the XLR. No idea on the pre-amp question as I go straight from source to amp (via XLR).


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> -What benefit is it to use that XLR switch to ground the cold leg of the XLR?  My cables are ground/hot/cold so I need to re-configure them still.


 
   
  In case the switch is set to XLR, the amp accepts a signal on the + and on the -, because the amp is completely balanced from input to output. In case you do not have a balanced source however (thus using RCA cables), the amp gets a signal only on the + part. So, what to do with the - part then? Ground it. That's what the switch does when you switch it to RCA mode.
   
  You're confused because you appear to think that the cold leg is grounded when the switch is set to XLR mode, but it's the other way around: the cold leg of the XLR inputs are grounded when RCA mode is selected, because in that case a signal is only fed to the hot leg. I hope it's clearer now.
   
   
   
  Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> -If I use a tubed pre-amp would this degrade the output level originally from the source?  Is it smarter just to go straight from source or is it a matter of preference?  (PWDmk2 -> EBCA -> 717 -> o2mk1/009)


 
  Probably a bit, since there are more components in the way. Whether you'd hear the difference is uncertain however. In my opinion it's better to keep the signal path as short as possible, meaning I would not use a preamp in between, but if you have multiple sources to listen to, it is of course convenient to use one.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Now I remember. It is for these specific headphones
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/234504/koss-esp6-refurbished-vintage-electrostatics
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Don't forget the rigid vinyl, incompressible silicone-filled earpads....
> 
> 
> One of those "What were they thinking...?"  products.


 
   
  I still have fond memories of these old Koss phones.  When I did the comparison some years back referenced in kevin gilmore's citation I found some good things to say about them compared even to late version Stax.  I would sure like to hear them run off the Ampzilla in question. Jim Bongiorno was a famous figure in American audio and would not have included this feature if he didn't think it would be of audiophile quality.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





livewire said:


> IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
> That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.


 
   
  I can't quite agree with that.
   
  I found that the vintage SR-Lambda (Normal bias) has this glorious midrange that the SR-202 falls well short of, which is very noticeable in any track with vocals when said vocals start sounding a bit recessed and as if they have some sort of artificial grainy, rough texture overlaid on them. (It's kind of like the HE-400, in retrospect.)
   
  I didn't like the higher clamping force of the redesigned headband/arc, either. It gets to me after a few hours, but I can wear that vintage Lambda all day without complaint.
   
  It's not that the numerical Lambdas are bad, but they're different from the vintage ones if this is any indication-and not necessarily for the better.


----------



## Michgelsen

While I have not heard the normal bias Lambda, I do not agree that the midrange of the 202 is a bit grainy or rough. I am very fond of the 202 in fact and that includes the midrange. I agree that the midrange of, for example, the 007 is much better (more articulate, smoother) but as a starter's setup the 202 is very hard to beat.


----------



## autoteleology

How does the 202 compare to the 303? I know they supposedly have different drivers, but is the difference substantial?


----------



## Michgelsen

Don't know, never heard the 303 or 404, which are supposed to be alike.


----------



## livewire

I have the 202 and the 407. I find them both to be very comfortable. Alas, not all heads are the same.
   
  As for midrange, the 407 is much better in _all_ respects, seems to me to be a more mid-centric stat.
   
  The 202 is more tilted up in the high notes, has very clean treble without etch or glare.
  I agree with Nameless that the 202's mids do have those shortcomings he mentioned.
  I would still recommend the 202 as a starter stat, especially if one enjoys great treble. (I do)


----------



## oogabooga

I heard the SR-009's for the first time today (at a Montreal Audio show - Jack Wu was there with a WES, SR-009s, and SR-007s, along with about 8 or so other dyanmic setups). I only had about 10 minutes, and I wasn't very used to the music (I forgot to bring a CD), but they still  sound incredible. Going between the 009s and 007s, the 009s just sounded clearer, while the 007s sounded dark (they were black 007s, no idea if they were SZ-2 or SZ-3). 
   
*EDIT Mar 23: I was a bit unclear in when I first wrote this. I meant to write that the 007s sounded darker than the 009s, not to imply that the 007s are a dark headphone in and of themselves. *   
  They are also more comfortable for my big head. The adjustable headband seems to have just a bit more room than my 007s, and the insides of the earcups are larger.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Going between the 009s and 007s, the 009s just sounded clearer, while the 007s sounded dark (they were black 007s, no idea if they were SZ-2 or SZ-3).


 
  One thing to be careful of when comparing headphones:-
   
  When I listen to my Senn HE60 and then go straight to the Stax SR007 MK1, the stax seems very dark and lacking in tone.
  After about 3 tracks later exclusively on the Stax they are one of the most mellifluous phones I've heard.
  Once I put on the Senns again and then back to the Stax they seem dark and atonal again.
   
  I find the HE60 bright but very addictive to the point where I always want to hear what they sound like while listening to other phones.
  I literally have to pack them away and concentrate on the phones I am currently listening to.
   
  IMO the 007 are the better phones when given the chance.
   
  Something to remember when comparing different phones.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I heard the SR-009's for the first time today (at a Montreal Audio show - Jack Wu was there with a WES, SR-009s, and SR-007s, along with about 8 or so other dyanmic setups). I only had about 10 minutes, and I wasn't very used to the music (I forgot to bring a CD), but they still  sound incredible. Going between the 009s and 007s, the 009s just sounded clearer, while the 007s sounded dark (they were black 007s, no idea if they were SZ-2 or SZ-3).
> 
> 
> They are also more comfortable for my big head. The adjustable headband seems to have just a bit more room than my 007s, and the insides of the earcups are larger.


 
  Agreed on this comparison! Now that said, I recently got to briefly listen to another pair of MKIs on my KGSS (I've heard them a few times before and for quite a bit longer) and they were much better from what I remembered and I gotta say that was impressed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



. That said, the SR-009s are still a cut above to my ears. I literally have to force myself to listen to my other headphones.


----------



## agentsim

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I heard the SR-009's for the first time today (at a Montreal Audio show - Jack Wu was there with a WES, SR-009s, and SR-007s, along with about 8 or so other dyanmic setups). I only had about 10 minutes, and I wasn't very used to the music (I forgot to bring a CD), but they still  sound incredible. Going between the 009s and 007s, the 009s just sounded clearer, while the 007s sounded dark (they were black 007s, no idea if they were SZ-2 or SZ-3).
> 
> 
> They are also more comfortable for my big head. The adjustable headband seems to have just a bit more room than my 007s, and the insides of the earcups are larger.


 
   
  I had a good listen there today also. He has really nice room with lots of good phones to audition. If you get a chance, ask Todd from MA recordings (sharing the room with Jack Wu) to demo some of his work (if you like minimalist classical recordings that is.)


----------



## MorbidToaster

If the other cans seem forced why not sell them off and invest in a better source? 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Agreed on this comparison! Now that said, I recently got to briefly listen to another pair of MKIs on my KGSS (I've heard them a few times before and for quite a bit longer) and they were much better from what I remembered and I gotta say that was impressed
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





morbidtoaster said:


> If the other cans seem forced why not sell them off and invest in a better source?


 
  Problem is I like variety. That and hard to define a "better" source. I've A-B'd my DAC against the Bryston and PWD2 and came away preferring mine. And I'm not going back to vinyl.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Problem is I like variety. That and hard to define a "better" source. I've A-B'd my DAC against the Bryston and PWD2 and came away preferring mine. And I'm not going back to vinyl.


 
  Oh, you like the WFS DAC-2 better?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Oh, you like the WFS DAC-2 better?


 
  Hard to say what was better, but I preferred the wyred 4 sound DAC-2.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I still have fond memories of these old Koss phones.  When I did the comparison some years back referenced in kevin gilmore's citation I found some good things to say about them compared even to late version Stax.  I would sure like to hear them run off the Ampzilla in question. Jim Bongiorno was a famous figure in American audio and would not have included this feature if he didn't think it would be of audiophile quality.


 
  I liked my ESP-9's at the time I had them (1973)   but they were NOT comfortable and I did NOT like the ESP-6's in comparison.
   
  I used the ESP-9's with a Citation 12 power amp, SAE XXX preamp and Akai GX365 open reel deck, Philips 212 turntable / ADC XLM  (later an AR-XA  and Shure V15 - III )
   
  Pretty high-end at the time, for a college student


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Oh, you like the WFS DAC-2 better?


 
   
  For whatever it's worth I tried the W4S DAC1 and put it up against the PWD DAC Mk2 and, well, the differences were so small that I couldn't reliably tell which one I was listening to. (this was using the Stax SR007 mk1). The DAC1 stayed, the PWD mk2 was sold. I didn't think it was worth 3X the cost (all used prices)


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I heard the SR-009's for the first time today (at a Montreal Audio show - Jack Wu was there with a WES, SR-009s, and SR-007s, along with about 8 or so other dyanmic setups). I only had about 10 minutes, and I wasn't very used to the music (I forgot to bring a CD), but they still  sound incredible. Going between the 009s and 007s, the 009s just sounded clearer, while the 007s sounded dark (they were black 007s, no idea if they were SZ-2 or SZ-3).
> 
> 
> They are also more comfortable for my big head. The adjustable headband seems to have just a bit more room than my 007s, and the insides of the earcups are larger.


 
   
  I hope you didn't use the WES for that comparison?  The SR-007 SZ3 isn't all that dark...


----------



## oogabooga

spritzer said:


> I hope you didn't use the WES for that comparison?  The SR-007 SZ3 isn't all that dark...




I did use the WES. It was the only electrostatic headphone amp at the show so far as I could tell. 

Btw, I clarified my original remarks to indicate that comparatively, I found the 007s dark*er* than the 009s, instead of saying that either headphone is generally dark or bright.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Hey all, looking for some speculation.
   
  I will be demoing the STAX SR-407 w/ SRM-252S Amp combo from Justin over at HeadAmp.  I will be comparing this to my sr-lambda/srm1-mk2 setup.
   
  now, at this time unfortunately, my srm1 is normal bias only, no pro bias socket.  I know the 407 would work from my amp, but not to full potential.  my question is....  if I was to add a pro bias socket to my normal bias amp, which I planned on doing anyway, how comparable would it be to the SRM-252s?  Could I expect the same/better/worse performance?
   
  I know this is a pretty vague question, but any insight would be helpful.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> While I have not heard the normal bias Lambda, I do not agree that the midrange of the 202 is a bit grainy or rough. I am very fond of the 202 in fact and that includes the midrange. I agree that the midrange of, for example, the 007 is much better (more articulate, smoother) but as a starter's setup the 202 is very hard to beat.


 
   
  Can't say I've been fortunate enough to hear an SR-007 or other Omega-series setup, but those are the only words I could find to describe how differently the SR-202's midrange sounds.
   
  Also consider that we may be looking for different things in the overall sound presentation; the SR-202 experience actually taught me that I was a midrangehead/vocalhead all along, and didn't really know it 'til after I had a suitable headphone to pit against the ol' SR-Lambda. Some may find the SR-202 signature more preferable, though, particularly those fond of headphones like the HE-400.
   
  I just wanted to make the case that vintage Lambda setups should not be overlooked as starter Stax setups due to their age, especially Normal bias ones.


----------



## n3rdling

You'd probably LOVE the SR-Omega


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Can't say I've been fortunate enough to hear an SR-007 or other Omega-series setup, but those are the only words I could find to describe how differently the SR-202's midrange sounds.
> 
> Also consider that we may be looking for different things in the overall sound presentation; the SR-202 experience actually taught me that I was a midrangehead/vocalhead all along, and didn't really know it 'til after I had a suitable headphone to pit against the ol' SR-Lambda. Some may find the SR-202 signature more preferable, though, particularly those fond of headphones like the HE-400.
> 
> I just wanted to make the case that vintage Lambda setups should not be overlooked as starter Stax setups due to their age, especially Normal bias ones.


 
  I know the Lambda is highly regarded because of its midrange. I hope I have the chance to listen to it one day, then maybe I'll agree with you.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> For whatever it's worth I tried the W4S DAC1 and put it up against the PWD DAC Mk2 and, well, the differences were so small that I couldn't reliably tell which one I was listening to. (this was using the Stax SR007 mk1). The DAC1 stayed, the PWD mk2 was sold. I didn't think it was worth 3X the cost (all used prices)


 
  Thanks LC and MH for your response:
  i know the differences between DAC are small.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I did use the WES. It was the only electrostatic headphone amp at the show so far as I could tell.
> 
> Btw, I clarified my original remarks to indicate that comparatively, I found the 007s dark*er* than the 009s, instead of saying that either headphone is generally dark or bright.


 
   
  That is part of the problem as the WES hasn't got a chance in hell to drive the 007's.  The SZ3's are more upfront than the Mk1's though. 
   
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Hey all, looking for some speculation.
> 
> I will be demoing the STAX SR-407 w/ SRM-252S Amp combo from Justin over at HeadAmp.  I will be comparing this to my sr-lambda/srm1-mk2 setup.
> 
> ...


 
   
  It would be far better than the 252, much more power on tap.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I liked my ESP-9's at the time I had them (1973)   but they were NOT comfortable and I did NOT like the ESP-6's in comparison.
> 
> I used the ESP-9's with a Citation 12 power amp, SAE XXX preamp and Akai GX365 open reel deck, Philips 212 turntable / ADC XLM  (later an AR-XA  and Shure V15 - III )
> 
> Pretty high-end at the time, for a college student


 
  I had that AR-XA/Shure V15/III combo for years with my Dynaco A25s and an AR Receiver and Superex Pro B V phones. Spent many many hours with that rig and felt on top of the world.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Thanks LC and MH for your response:
> i know the differences between DAC are small.


 
  No worries. Once you get in this territory, they're all (usually) very good and differences are more "flavours" than steps forward (from my experiences). Another great DAC that I owned was the Cary XCiter. I had to sell it because it wasn't balanced, but if you don't need balanced, that was one impressive DAC IMO.


----------



## MrViolin

Back in the sexiness of the stax thread. With spritzer, the man of stax


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I had that AR-XA/Shure V15/III combo for years with my Dynaco A25s and an AR Receiver and Superex Pro B V phones. Spent many many hours with that rig and felt on top of the world.


 
  Ah, the AR Receiver.  Great looking product, classy. Really excellent tuner  as I recall.  I've only ever seen one of them, at a HiFi store in Milwaukee.
   
http://classicreceivers.com/acoustic-research-ar-model-r


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Can't say I've been fortunate enough to hear an SR-007 or other Omega-series setup, but those are the only words I could find to describe how differently the SR-202's midrange sounds.
> 
> Also consider that we may be looking for different things in the overall sound presentation; the SR-202 experience actually taught me that I was a midrangehead/vocalhead all along, and didn't really know it 'til after I had a suitable headphone to pit against the ol' SR-Lambda. Some may find the SR-202 signature more preferable, though, particularly those fond of headphones like the HE-400.
> 
> I just wanted to make the case that vintage Lambda setups should not be overlooked as starter Stax setups due to their age, especially Normal bias ones.


 
   
   
  Say that the SR-Lambda Pro has the same midrange with more fuller lowrange or completely different?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Ah, the AR Receiver.  Great looking product, classy. Really excellent tuner  as I recall.  I've only ever seen one of them, at a HiFi store in Milwaukee.
> 
> http://classicreceivers.com/acoustic-research-ar-model-r


 
  Hey, thanks a billion for that great picture! I love it. I loved that thing and I always thought it was the most beautiful thing I ever owned.
  Rich


----------



## singh

my friend is in Akihabara, Tokyo. Where can he buy( / audition ? ) STAX SR009 ? nearby , easy to reach areas are fine as well.
   
  i asked him to get a quote for the same , but today he searched some famous electronics market, could not find a trace of stax.


----------



## nick n

Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
  Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
   
  BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The old cable as i received this has deteriorated beyond help.


----------



## ijchan223

i am thinking about trying out some stax headphones, something along the lines of sr40s but i have a question regarding the size of the cups, are they large enough to fit over the ear?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Say that the SR-Lambda Pro has the same midrange with more fuller lowrange or completely different?


 
  Since I own both the LP and 202 currently, the LP is more smoother and enjoyable to my ears than my 202. The 202 is slightly more brighter the LP has a better bass response, more warmer actually.
   
  Quote: 





nick n said:


> Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
> Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
> 
> BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
> ...


 
  Most should be fine, just don't use pure-silver solder especially the Cardas one's for soldering.
   
  Quote: 





ijchan223 said:


> i am thinking about trying out some stax headphones, something along the lines of sr40s but i have a question regarding the size of the cups, are they large enough to fit over the ear?


 
   
  The whole electret line SR-30 up to the baby Lambda junior SR-80 all sit on your ears with minimal or very little clamping force from the headband. It is actually quite comfortable when I had my SR-40's they could sit on my ears for 6 hours a day and I would not feel a thing.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





nick n said:


> Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
> Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
> 
> BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
> ...


 
   
  I have never soldered a Stax cable into a Stax earspeaker set, but I am sure it can be done.
   
  I think using normal rosin-core 60 / 40 solder will work just fine; you can buy this at hardware stores, Radio Shack, etc.  It is best for delicate work like this to use the THINNEST solder you can find.   Radio Shack SKU# 64-002  is a 1.5 oz spool of 0.062" thick rosin-core solder (42.5 g, 1.6 mm) sells for $9 or so. This will work OK.   Thinner solder, like Kester 0.031" and 0.015" solder is available, check Amazon.com among others.  With the thinner solder it is a little easier to control how much solder you use to join the work.
   
   
  The rosin inside the solder acts as a flux which cleans the metal surfaces of the copper wires just before they are joined; removing the thin layer of oxide from the copper wire allows the molten tin/lead of the solder to wet the copper, forming a metal-to-metal bond that is both electrically conductive and fairly strong in mechanical terms.
   
   
  ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER.  Acid core solder is for mending gutters and making stained glass stuff.  No good for electronics!
   
  There are some snake oil, er I mean, "audio tweak" solders, most of which contain some silver, for which unsubstantiated claims of better sound have been made. To date, none of these claims have been objectively proven. 
   
  There are also lead-free solders available, produced as part of the electronics' industry's effort to avoid contaminating the environment with lead, which can be converted into toxic organometallic forms if disposed of in landfills. I have not used lead-free solder so I can't advise if it's easy to use or not. I dispose of all my electronic junk by selling it on eBay rather than putting it in the landfill.  (Seriously, all the useless and broken electronics from my house go into a box in my garage, and then once or twice a year I make a trip to a local electronics recycler who recovers what can be recovered and disposes of the rest in approved fashion.)
   
  Do not use a big-ass Wen soldering gun.  A temperature controlled soldering station is best- Elenco and Hakko make the better models, although there are other ones available as well. The Radio Shack model 64-053 is pretty good and is compatible with Hakko series 900M tips. If you don't plan to be doing much soldering, then you may not want to spend the dough on a good soldering rig, and for this job any 15~25 watt soldering pencil should work OK. DO NOT get a soldering iron larger than 25 watts.
   
  I have never found a cordless soldering tool I liked for this kind of work, so it's probably best to avoid those.
   
  IF YOU HAVE NEVER SOLDERED BEFORE  I suggest you do NOT attempt this until you practice doing some soldering.  It takes a little practice to know where best to apply the soldering tip, how long to hold it in order to heat the work but not melt everything around it, how much solder to use, etc.
   
  ALSO:  be *very careful*  near the drivers with the soldering pencil -  they have very delicate dust covers and so on, just a touch of that 850 degree iron can destroy their integrity.


----------



## arnaud

As was discussed earlier in the thread, any soldering without fully covering the drivers will likely result in holes in the dust seal and possibly even the diaphragm because of the flux "sputter".


----------



## DefQon

Not likely as long as you have a steady hand and get the job done quickly enough without applying too much heat into one area. I know this because I re-terminated my LP and re-flowed the solder on the 202 that I restored without any of the mentioned problems.


----------



## Snave

Hi everyone, this is my first post. I've just received my sr407s, with 323s. I love the sound, but am having a problem with some static noise in the right channel. It sounds a little like whistling or fizzing, and comes and goes. Sometimes the phones are silent and seem fine. It was quite hot and humid when I first noticed it, but the weather has changed and the noise keeps reappearing now and then. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## Michgelsen

I am familiar with the sounds you describe. This could indicate that dust has entered the driver inside the headphones, which should not happen, as the drivers are normally sealed to prevent this. This is unfortunately not repairable, except by replacing the faulty driver. If the headphones are new or still under warranty, I suggest you contact your dealer for a replacement. If you bought them secondhand, well, then you have a bigger problem...
   
  I assume you have tried to reverse the left and right channels by swapping the interconnects, to determine that indeed the headphones are at fault, correct?


----------



## TheAttorney

I heard that sort of occasional whistling noise through a demo SR-007 I once had on trial. The noise didn't happen with other phones on the same amp, so I assumed if was not the amp at fault. I returned the demo phones, so never found out the cause of the noise, but what Michgelsen said seems very reasonable.


----------



## spritzer

That is dust inside the headphone, no doubt about that.


----------



## nick n

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I think using normal rosin-core 60 / 40 solder will work just fine; you can buy this at hardware stores, Radio Shack, etc.  It is best for delicate work like this to use the THINNEST solder you can find.   Radio Shack SKU# 64-002  is a 1.5 oz spool of 0.062" thick rosin-core solder (42.5 g, 1.6 mm) sells for $9 or so. This will work OK.   Thinner solder, like Kester 0.031" and 0.015" solder is available, check Amazon.com among others.  With the thinner solder it is a little easier to control how much solder you use to join the work.
> !
> 
> I have never found a cordless soldering tool I liked for this kind of work, so it's probably best to avoid those.
> ...


 
  Thanks for all the replies, nice to know " normal " rosin core stuff works well, it has for any of the other things i used it on, even done a very touchy 70mm Philips electret recable.
   All great replies and appreciated very much.
   
  Honestly I dislike the silver stuff but was expecting that to be the suggestion 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Was going to spring for Cardas stuff but honestly I don't need a roll that will last the rest of my life.
   I've got zero room for error on this particular item, so also covering the drivers up is a welcome suggestion also.
   
  Funny thing I am still to this day using some old 1950's(?) hand held thing I inherited from my Grandfather and have it mastered more or less ( did  voice coil with it once even ), still even has a decent tip, not like the newer stuff it seems that burn out, but this project might make me plunge into one of the Hakko units i have been looking for an excuse to buy to nail the temperature properly the first time.
   
  Just the thought of getting heat near the moisture guard/dustcovers makes me cringe, maybe i can see about leaving a pigtail of the prexisting contact, hopefully it is not in as bad a shape as the rest of the cable in there.
   
  Thanks again to all  for all the reminders and advice.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





nick n said:


> Thanks for all the replies, nice to know " normal " rosin core stuff works well, it has for any of the other things i used it on, even done a very touchy 70mm Philips electret recable.
> All great replies and appreciated very much.
> 
> Honestly I dislike the silver stuff but was expecting that to be the suggestion
> ...


 
  I have the Hakko FX-888D and it is a very nice unit for ~$100.  The digital readout is very handy.  The Weller version is nice also, but more $$.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I liked my ESP-9's at the time I had them (1973)   but they were NOT comfortable and I did NOT like the ESP-6's in comparison.
> 
> I used the ESP-9's with a Citation 12 power amp, SAE XXX preamp and Akai GX365 open reel deck, Philips 212 turntable / ADC XLM  (later an AR-XA  and Shure V15 - III )
> 
> Pretty high-end at the time, for a college student


 
  Definitely higher end than what I had as  a student.  I preferred the ESP 9 to the ESP 6 too.  Still the 6 would be nice to hear on the Ampzilla.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Say that the SR-Lambda Pro has the same midrange with more fuller lowrange or completely different?


 
   
  Lambda Pro? I have no idea, since I've never had one of those.
   
  It's said to have more extension both ways, but a more recessed midrange than the SR-Lambda (Normal bias) and most other Lambda models by some folks in here. Not sure if I could stand that.


----------



## Sable

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Since most of the Japanese SRM-1 Mk2's don't have a plug in the voltage selector then you need to hardwire the transformer.  Here is the correct wiring setup for all Stax amps:
> 
> 100v:
> Gray+White
> ...


 

 Spritzer,
   
  Thank you for the great instructions. However short they are, once I looked at the actual wiring inside the driver, they couldn't be more clear. Went from 100v to 117v in no time.


----------



## MrViolin

I was mind blown when I learned that stax made on ear phones.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Having some issues with my sr-lambdas.  I've been noticing intermittent cutting out on the right side.  It happens when I move my head forward and back, not really side to side.  This is odd to me, as there are no moving parts.  I've played around with the cable, but can not seem to recreate the effect.  So I am assuming that the cable is ok.
   
  might this be dust?  loose connection? or some other problem, like a failing driver?  I'm going to open it up tomorrow and have a look inside.  might it be worthwhile to just reflow the solder connections?  Not sure what the wisest step is.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





singh said:


> my friend is in Akihabara, Tokyo. Where can he buy( / audition ? ) STAX SR009 ? nearby , easy to reach areas are fine as well.
> 
> i asked him to get a quote for the same , but today he searched some famous electronics market, could not find a trace of stax.


 
   
  Dyna5555.  eEarphone might have a pair for demo too.


----------



## n3rdling

keithpgdrb said:


> Having some issues with my sr-lambdas.  I've been noticing intermittent cutting out on the right side.  It happens when I move my head forward and back, not really side to side.  This is odd to me, as there are no moving parts.  I've played around with the cable, but can not seem to recreate the effect.  So I am assuming that the cable is ok.
> 
> might this be dust?  loose connection? or some other problem, like a failing driver?  I'm going to open it up tomorrow and have a look inside.  might it be worthwhile to just reflow the solder connections?  Not sure what the wisest step is.



 unplug the left ic and check if the sound in the right driver completely goes out or goes faint. the driver could be slightly coming apart as another user recently experienced.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Definitely higher end than what I had as  a student.  I preferred the ESP 9 to the ESP 6 too.  Still the 6 would be nice to hear on the Ampzilla.


 
  I worked 8 hours a day as a UAW union worker in a zinc plating factory (decent money for the time) during my first year of college, while taking 12-14 credit hours of calculus and organic chemistry-  amazing amount of energy I had in those days.  Can't imagine how I did that. I got tired the other day just carrying my old organic chemistry textbook out to the recycling bin, when I came back in I had to sit down and have a cup of coffee.
   
  Anyway I was burning the candle at both ends in those days to afford college AND the SAE preamp and a Dynaco FM5 tuner kit and Akai GX365 open reel,  Esp9's H-K Citation 12 kit, etc.   HAHA  the audio gear came first, college second, sleep third..... at least I had my priorities right.
   
  1972-73.   Before many of you were born I suspect.  In those days, I had hair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I wonder what that gear would have sounded like through a (yet-to-be-introduced)  Stax Lambda and SRD-7.


----------



## Operakid

Milosz's story gave me an instant hit of deja vu, 1975, killing myself over calculus, physics, etc., but maybe spent more energy over wishing for that Thorens at the local hi-fi shop, a 10 minute walk away from school.  My Lafayette speakers and Realistic amp were the best I could do at the time.........
   
  And even more deja vu from Milosz's thread, I had a full head of hair then too!


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> unplug the left ic and check if the sound in the right driver completely goes out or goes faint. the driver could be slightly coming apart as another user recently experienced.


 
   
  When my driver came apart, the sound was 'hollow' but not intermittent (i.e. the stator was still close enough to affect the diaphragm).


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> When my driver came apart, the sound was 'hollow' but not intermittent (i.e. the stator was still close enough to affect the diaphragm).


 
  yeah, it definitely sounds like a wire short.  weather that is the issue, I dont know.  I'm going to reflow the wire connections today I think.  see if it does anything.  and yes, I will be covering every bit of the diaphragms with foil or something while working.  This is not something I want to do.  I wish there was someone I could send the cans to for repair, but thats the cross we bear with vintage cans.  on your own.


----------



## oogabooga

Question for other 007 users with big heads:  I have a rather large noggin (hat size 8+). When I wear my 007s the headpad is always stretched to the MAX and the earcups are always being tugged up my ears. Yesterday, I removed the headpad and wore the 007s just using the metal headband, which felt MUCH better. Still seemed to have a seal. Anyone else do this?


----------



## struggles

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> Question for other 007 users with big heads:  I have a rather large noggin (hat size 8+). When I wear my 007s the headpad is always stretched to the MAX and the earcups are always being tugged up my ears. Yesterday, I removed the headpad and wore the 007s just using the metal headband, which felt MUCH better. Still seemed to have a seal. Anyone else do this?


 
  My wife calls me "Pumpkin Head", I purchased an older pair of 007's and the head pad was completely stretched, I did use the band temporarily, which did work for me. I ordered a new head pad, feels more secure to me but it does stretch fairly close to the band. Think you  may have me beat on head size...


----------



## singh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Dyna5555.  eEarphone might have a pair for demo too.


 
   
  thanks 
   
  will inform him to look for the shops.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Dyna5555.  eEarphone might have a pair for demo too.


 
   
  thanks 
   
  will inform him to look for the shops.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

looks like upon first tests, the intermittent cutting out was solved by resoldering the internal wiring on the sr-lambdas.  thinking I might do the left side as well, just because.  although, if it aint broke...
   
  side note.  I now have the stax 407/srm252s combo here.  comparing it to my sr-lambda/srm1mk2 combo.  some very interesting differences.  really makes me wish I had already added the pro port to my amp.  I'm finding the soundstage and bass both lacking a bit with the 407. maybe bass lacking is a bad way to say it.  the fullness of the bass seems less.  it goes just as deep it seems.  vocals are a little honky in comparison though.  OR, my lambdas vocals are a bit set back.  not sure which.
   
  can anyone make a comment/comparison on their findings between the 407 and original lambda on the same amp?


----------



## milosz

Member Oogabooga was able to successfully fix his Lambda style drivers at home. First off- CONGRATULATIONS AGAIN!!!
   
  Second- how is this even possible? I thought special spacing tools and tensioning jigs would be required, at a minimum- not to mention an ISO 4 clean room.
   
  ????


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> looks like upon first tests, the intermittent cutting out was solved by resoldering the internal wiring on the sr-lambdas.  thinking I might do the left side as well, just because.  although, if it aint broke...
> 
> side note.  I now have the stax 407/srm252s combo here.  comparing it to my sr-lambda/srm1mk2 combo.  some very interesting differences.  really makes me wish I had already added the pro port to my amp.  I'm finding the soundstage and bass both lacking a bit with the 407. maybe bass lacking is a bad way to say it.  the fullness of the bass seems less.  it goes just as deep it seems.  vocals are a little honky in comparison though.  OR, my lambdas vocals are a bit set back.  not sure which.
> 
> can anyone make a comment/comparison on their findings between the 407 and original lambda on the same amp?


 
  yes i can.the 407 are more transparent. neither is bad and i understand how some would prefer the nb to any recent lambda framed stax. whatever others say a preference is subjective. i have the srm1 mk2 pro; one nb one pro bias. I'd like to do a double blind test but i can feel the difference in frames.
  nice to see you've fixed it!


----------



## oogabooga

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Member Oogabooga was able to successfully fix his Lambda style drivers at home. First off- CONGRATULATIONS AGAIN!!!
> 
> Second- how is this even possible? I thought special spacing tools and tensioning jigs would be required, at a minimum- not to mention an ISO 4 clean room.
> 
> ????


 
  The diaphragm was still taut, between the two spacers. It was just the back stator that had come unglued, so no spacing or tensioning required. I tried to keep the exposure to dust to a minimum, and it worked


----------



## wink

Quote:milosz posted


> 1972-73.   Before many of you were born I suspect.  In those days, I had hair.


 
  By that time i had already built 3 stereo amps ( 6 monblocks + 3 Power supplies) of an AWA designed 30Watt using KT88's
  All point to point wiring and sounded great for the time.
  Also built some Mullard 10-10 that had pc boards for the amps.
  An acquaintance built the sand version and it sounded downright tinny in comparison the the earlier tubed design.
   
  I also had lotsa hair then.. Now I look like my avatar.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





wink said:


> By that time i had already built 3 stereo amps ( 6 monblocks + 3 Power supplies) of an AWA designed 30Watt using KT88's
> All point to point wiring and sounded great for the time.
> Also built some Mullard 10-10 that had pc boards for the amps.
> An acquaintance built the sand version and it sounded downright tinny in comparison the the earlier tubed design.
> ...


 
  1972...I was learning to walk.


----------



## MrViolin

How do the older models like the t1s/t2 compare to the current amps?


----------



## jaycalgary

I stumbled on to something new. Would there be any benefit using a Schumann generator with a Stax setup or is that just a scam?


----------



## gilency

Jay, there is always somebody trying to take money out of your (or mine) wallet, if you only believe


----------



## oogabooga

I just read two 6moons reviews on different Schumann generators, as well as a couple of websites extolling their virtues. I also read the Wikipedia article on Schumann resonances, which makes no mention of audio/health benefits. As far as I am concerned, the alleged audio (and health) benefits they list do not have any basis in fact or science, and the articles that 6moons and the other non-Wikipedia sites link to could not be found. 
   
  In other words, it's a crock of ****.
   
  (and yes, reading that kind of pseudo-sciency rubbish really makes my blood boil)


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Member Oogabooga was able to successfully fix his Lambda style drivers at home. First off- CONGRATULATIONS AGAIN!!!
> 
> Second- how is this even possible? I thought special spacing tools and tensioning jigs would be required, at a minimum- not to mention an ISO 4 clean room.
> 
> ????


 
   
  The tricky part is fabricating the diaphragm as the tension has to be just right and ditto on the coating. 
   
  I've cleaned Stax drivers to be 100% noise free but it is impossible to do with the Lambdas.  Only way to be sure they are working fine is to test and glued drivers are a pain for that.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I stumbled on to something new. Would there be any benefit using a Schumann generator with a Stax setup or is that just a scam?


 
   
  I prefer a Bach or Mozart generator, myself.


----------



## wink

I like Liszt because it's not flat...


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





wink said:


> I like Liszt because it's not flat...


 
  His Piano Concerto No. 1, among other things, is actually quite flat, _E-flat majo_r to be more precise!


----------



## loserica

I'm very satisfied with SR-404LE (I do my pleasure to listen to..) but many probably do not know how fragile is the headband plastic...one wrong move (where one of the speakers slide on the drum in the opposite direction of the catch) can be fatal... meaning that break the plastic. I give the grade 5 or 6 on a scale from one to ten at the headband ensamble (as construction) and 8,5/9 grade for the sound quality!! It's shame that manufacturers have done so fragile at the top (on headband..) I refer only to the Lambda series. However this ear speaker almost completely conquered me by its sound!!
  Therefore be carefully ... becouse It's a shame to break such a gem sound.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I stumbled on to something new. Would there be any benefit using a Schumann generator with a Stax setup or is that just a scam?


 
   
  There is clearly a physical phenomenon  called the Schumann Resonances studied by physicists and earth scientists. How or why these would have any effect on humans or audio is, to say the least, unclear.   The Six Moons reviewer seemed to think an artificial generator of these frequencies created a significant benefit to audio.  This seems unlkely to me but I would like to hear such a thing to decide for myself.  There are many things we don't understand and it is always possible there is something here.  At the moment, I wouldn't bet on it..


----------



## edstrelow

loserica said:


> I'm very satisfied with SR-404LE (I do my pleasure to listen to..) but many probably do not know how fragile is the headband plastic...one wrong move (where one of the speakers slide on the drum in the opposite direction of the catch) can be fatal... meaning that break the plastic. I give the grade 5 or 6 on a scale from one to ten at the headband ensamble (as construction) and 8,5/9 grade for the sound quality!! It's shame that manufacturers have done so fragile at the top (on headband..) I refer only to the Lambda series. However this ear speaker almost completely conquered me by its sound!!
> Therefore be carefully ... becouse It's a shame to break such a gem sound.


I have had lambdas for almost 20 years without breaking the plastic top band. They are a lot stronger than they look. However I have had the forks that hold the earcup break once.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





wink said:


> I like Liszt because it's not flat...


 
   
   
  Perhaps Head-Fi ought to offer a lisztserve......


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> There is clearly a physical phenomenon  called the Schumann Resonances studied by physicists and earth scientists. How or why these would have any effect on humans or audio is, to say the least, unclear.   The Six Moons reviewer seemed to think an artificial generator of these frequencies created a significant benefit to audio.  This seems unlkely to me but I would like to hear such a thing to decide for myself.  There are many things we don't understand and it is always possible there is something here.  At the moment, I wouldn't bet on it..


 
  I'd like to see some double-blind A/B tests.


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





namelesspfg said:


> Lambda Pro? I have no idea, since I've never had one of those.
> 
> It's said to have more extension both ways, but a more recessed midrange than the SR-Lambda (Normal bias) and most other Lambda models by some folks in here. Not sure if I could stand that.


 
   
   I've been owning my 303s for relatively long. I was sceptic about the performance of the old Lambda when I was intruduced to it but time after time I found it somewhat more enjoyable. Its midrange glitters and that is why it's more pleasurable to listen to. I wouldn't say I have the proper amplification as I have only a all-FET struggler so the sound charasteristic would differ hooked up to a stronger one but via this setup its bass sounds a bit flatter compared to the 303's; in other words: bass is present in a good amount but somewhat differs. Nevertheless, I am not planning to get rid of the 303s as it is still very enjoyable with the ol' Tesla turntable and the rest of the analogue setup as provides fuller bass and still good with some other digital recordings. But still wondering if the NB-Lambda's signature and its "great midrange" is due to the mineral wool damping(?) or it's transducer technology . The Pro also have the same damping and optically the same size of drillings on the stators but higher bias voltage that may favorable for the bass quality and quantity so still wonder if it also preserving the midrange of NB? So maybe the same mids? (Sorry if my inferences are way too wrong)


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> I have had lambdas for almost 20 years without breaking the plastic top band. They are a lot stronger than they look. However I have had the forks that hold the earcup break once.


 
  Ed, I've had 2 new Lambda type arc assemblies crack at the ?? weld at the very top of the hard plastic frame and 1 fork snap also. Although they look more fragile, the older Lambda arc appears to be more durable. Please note I have a huge noggin though LOL.


----------



## Operakid

There are always some magic brick (VPI), magic dots (Mpingo), magic wood blocks (Shun Mook), mmaic stones (Shakti), magic pitchforks things (Shakti), magic little boxes with terminals that go on the back of speaker (Walker).........you get the ideia, I could go on and on and on......that are on the scene and endorsed with great (cultish?) enthsiasm by many, including some reviewers.  Thing is, 5 years later these things are not usually in the person's system any more.  My question would be, if they made so much difference, why are you no longer interested in hearing such terrific improvements in sound?  
   
  There are always scammers ready to sell and dreamers ready to buy.  The placebo effect is huge in audio.  And the sellers of the snake oil will always be  ready to take advantage of this power of suggestion.


----------



## loserica

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Ed, I've had 2 new Lambda type arc assemblies crack at the ?? weld at the very top of the hard plastic frame and 1 fork snap also. Although they look more fragile, the older Lambda arc appears to be more durable. Please note I have a huge noggin though LOL.


 
   
  The second pain is that they are very expensive.  $150 for an complete headband ensemble is it a bit too much. But it is the monopoly policy which operates in all areas, where possible... 're away from it if you not get hurt; after you feel there. That "arc" seems fragile not only because I managed to break it to me (once happened..) , but comparing it with those of other non-STAX headphones, also. I think it had to be built stronger. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But it's not our decision, we are consumers. The conclusion is only one single: take care!


----------



## singh

Well the headband assembly of 507 is similar to sr009 and it looks like it will fit normal lambdas , anybody tried that ?


----------



## livewire

No.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





singh said:


> Well the headband assembly of 507 is similar to sr009 and it looks like it will fit normal lambdas , anybody tried that ?


 
  I think someone has used the 407 arc assembly on the 507s in the past successfully, as they found the 507 arc uncomfortable. The new type Lambda arc can't be used on the old Lambda/Lambda Pro/Lambda Signature/ Sigma/ Sigma Pro earspeaker cases, unless you remove the metal part that the old arc assembly used to insert into (i.e. the newer plastic pin has a greater diameter that the older metal pin).


----------



## bearFNF

I have an '80s vintage Lambda Normal bias.  Some years ago, 'someone' stepped on them and bent the gimbal on one side of one of the earspeakers.  I just bent it back and have been using it like that since.  So not sure which model started this fragileness you speak of.  But I can say that the headband on my set is pretty durable as it has yet to actually break.  Of course I probably just jinxed myself by saying this...


----------



## John Buchanan

The Lambda Nova series were the first with the new type of arc - 1994


----------



## autoteleology

Was going through a wallpaper pack and I found this, of all things:


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> I think someone has used the 407 arc assembly on the 507s in the past successfully, as they found the 507 arc uncomfortable. The new type Lambda arc can't be used on the old Lambda/Lambda Pro/Lambda Signature/ Sigma/ Sigma Pro earspeaker cases, unless you remove the metal part that the old arc assembly used to insert into (i.e. the newer plastic pin has a greater diameter that the older metal pin).


 

 All the new Lambda's share the same arc since the 202's which have a bigger diameter pin of the arc assembly that goes into the stator housing (unless there is one special off model that uses a complete different one). The new Lambda arcs/headband assembly can also be used on the vintage Lambda models, you need to use a pair of tweezers to unscrew the barrel secured into the pin area of the stator housing. Once removed it gives the right diameter clearance to install new Lambda arc/headband assemblies.


----------



## NamelessPFG

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> I've been owning my 303s for relatively long. I was sceptic about the performance of the old Lambda when I was intruduced to it but time after time I found it somewhat more enjoyable. Its midrange glitters and that is why it's more pleasurable to listen to. I wouldn't say I have the proper amplification as I have only a all-FET struggler so the sound charasteristic would differ hooked up to a stronger one but via this setup its bass sounds a bit flatter compared to the 303's; in other words: bass is present in a good amount but somewhat differs. Nevertheless, I am not planning to get rid of the 303s as it is still very enjoyable with the ol' Tesla turntable and the rest of the analogue setup as provides fuller bass and still good with some other digital recordings. But still wondering if the NB-Lambda's signature and its "great midrange" is due to the mineral wool damping(?) or it's transducer technology . The Pro also have the same damping and optically the same size of drillings on the stators but higher bias voltage that may favorable for the bass quality and quantity so still wonder if it also preserving the midrange of NB? So maybe the same mids? (Sorry if my inferences are way too wrong)


 
   
  I don't think it's the mineral wool, because my SR-Lambda didn't come with any. This set's not exactly stock, what with that mineral missing wool, rebuilt drivers with 2.5um diaphragms, 5-pin cable because whoever worked on this set before probably couldn't find a 6-pin cable, and so on. (It's probably why I managed to score it for just $250 with an SRD-7/SB.)
   
  Of course, that just introduces even more variables (on top of the different amp setups, what with the Normal bias Lambda being powered with an old Onkyo receiver + SRD-7/SB and the SR-202 being powered with an SRM-212 because I don't have a dual-bias amp)...but it's still the same stators at the same 0.3mm Normal bias spacing. I'm still hoping to get my hands on a stock SR-Lambda, whenever my wallet permits, to find out how similar and different my particular set is.
   
  The only thing I can say for sure at this point is that that vintage Lambda still remains my favorite headphone compared to everything else I've ever auditioned, in both comfort and sound presentation. I'm just trying to figure out exactly what's behind that sound presentation, especially when the different Lambda frame models clearly don't sound all that similar...


----------



## soren_brix

Quote: 





krmathis said:


> I brought my Omega II and SRD-7/MK2 to one of my local Hi-Fi stores today.
> Hi-Fi Klubben to be precise.
> 
> One of the guys who work there met me right inside the door and asked if he could help me. I told him that I was looking into buying an integrated amplifier, and was especially interested in the Lyngdorf TDS2200 (picture).
> ...


 
  Hi *krmathis*
   
  I don't know wheather this still applies?
  Anyway, I have a Stax 4040 and a TDAI2200, also I have the SRD-7/mk2 box your are refering to.
   
  Listning to the 404 Signature on a SRM-006t and the SRD-7/mk2 I would prefere the 006t; to me the sound is simply bigger and more open. Might be a question of personal taste.
  If I had the SRD-7/mk2 and the 404, would I buy the 006t? probably not ... not that big a difference.
   
  I have had a pair of 007II for a few month using them in the TDAI2200 (simply as a DAC) -> SRM-006t combi.
  The 007II is cleary a very good headspeaker  ... and compared to the 404 ...well .... I'd prefere the 007II ... that is out of the box, so to speak.
   
  If you do a little of tweaking, using the DSP from the TDAI, and try to straigthen out the fq response, the difference is less, at least to me ears ... in fact I returned the 007II.
  BTW I found an Excel sheet done by someone else, that can create voicing files ... that way you can upload a voicing that tweaks your speakerphones, choose that when you want to do some listing using headspeakers....and choose Neutral, or some other voicing when listing using main speakers (using the TDAI with RoomPerfect disables the DSP feature, thus the only way to tweak the repsons will be through use of voicings).
   
  BTW it is kind of impressive how much knowledge floating around in here, thnx a lot guys 
   
  /S


----------



## wuwhere

krmathis hasn't been here in awhile.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/518687/journey-getting-to-an-end


----------



## plektret

The Bando transformer in my SRM-006tA has gone bad. I'm on a tight budget and need a cheap suitable replacement component that is at least as good as the Bando (which I've heard isn't that good). I've looked at Lundahl's transformers, but they are too expensive. Can anyone help me? Thanks


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





plektret said:


> The Bando transformer in my SRM-006tA has gone bad. I'm on a tight budget and need a cheap suitable replacement component that is at least as good as the Bando (which I've heard isn't that good). I've looked at Lundahl's transformers, but they are too expensive. Can anyone help me? Thanks


 
   
  Bando is good enough to be used in the highest end Japan only Sony gear where cost was truly no issue.  A custom unit to fit the exact specs will not be cheap to get as you need just one.   
   
  A transformer doesn't just die though as it is all sealed in resin.  It's probably the thermal fuse that blew but why that happened is a better question.


----------



## SquireC

@krmathis
   
  You said that ' It seemed to lack some of the warmth and "magic" I get from of the SRM-007t. Maybe because the Lyngdorf is a fully digital solid state amplifier, while the SRM-007t is solid state/tube. Or perhaps because the SRD-7/MK2 add something to the sound that? I really don't know.'
   
  IMHO it's not the SRD7 that has affected the sound. I've used an SRD7/MK2 for many years with various amps, and the better the amp the better the sound. I use a solid state pre amp and  valve power amp. I have heard very good results with all solid state but not easy to find one that provides the 'magic'.
   
  Good hunting.


----------



## plektret

spritzer said:


> Bando is good enough to be used in the highest end Japan only Sony gear where cost was truly no issue.  A custom unit to fit the exact specs will not be cheap to get as you need just one.
> 
> A transformer doesn't just die though as it is all sealed in resin.  It's probably the thermal fuse that blew but why that happened is a better question.



 
 A few seconds after I turn the amp on I can hear a clicking sound (after the self-test) and then smoke comes from the transformer. I don't have the technical knowledge to guess what's wrong. So I take it there's no easy solution to replace it?


----------



## spritzer

So when the HV comes on the transformer smokes.  Sounds a lot like tube issues.


----------



## plektret

Two years ago I switched tubes to RCA 6CG7 "black plates". I only biased them once.


----------



## spritzer

Biasing could be an issue but probably a tube has shorted.  Smoke comes from too much current so something has shorted.  If you have the stock tubes try to install them and see what happens.   Could also be anode or cathode resistors.


----------



## plektret

I've just tried with the stock tubes, but there's still smoke. I've also measured the resistors and they seem to be fine.


----------



## jcx

its really not recommended to keep trying when the component has emittted smoke - you really should get the smoking part fixed/replaced


----------



## DefQon

Yep, if it's a tube short, refrain from using that tube again, I had one that I used as dummy/tester for my other tube amp whilst short I didn't know and it smoked the trafo's next to the chokes. Dispose of it.


----------



## spritzer

No sense in changing out the transformer with the cause of the transformer issue still at large.  Could be a number of things from a shorted capacitor to the transformer shorted to the chassis.  I've seen both on that vintage of Stax amps.


----------



## jackskelly

Hi, I've recently ordered an SR-009, which should get here this month. This will be the first electrostatic headphone I've ever personally owned. I know the SR-009 uses pro bias, and it seems that STAX now uses pro bias on all of their headphones in current production. Does anyone know if they plan on staying with only pro bias for future models? Would they make another headphone with normal bias? I'm just wondering because I've ordered a BHSE, which should come in this summer, and I'm probably going to get one normal bias plus and one pro bias plug, but I believe that as a default all of them are being made with 2 pro bias plugs (which makes sense if STAX will only produce pro bias headphones from now on), unless you specify otherwise.


----------



## livewire

Stax abandoned the normal bias many years ago, seriously doubt it will make a comeback.
  The only reason you might want a normal bias jack is if you are using old school headphones.
  It is an option if one decides to go retro. But with 009s, why would you?


----------



## spritzer

No chance there will ever be another normal bias headphone.  Stax officially stopped supporting normal bias in Sept. 2007.


----------



## livewire

When was the last year for normal bias "earspeaker" production?


----------



## jackskelly

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No chance there will ever be another normal bias headphone.  Stax officially stopped supporting normal bias in Sept. 2007.


 
   
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Stax abandoned the normal bias many years ago, seriously doubt it will make a comeback.
> The only reason you might want a normal bias jack is if you are using old school headphones.
> It is an option if one decides to go retro. But with 009s, why would you?


 
   
  Thanks for the information guys. 
  I'm still deciding on which plug configuration to get, but it seems settled that pro bias will be what they will continue to use in the future.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





livewire said:


> When was the last year for normal bias "earspeaker" production?


 
   
  Around 1990.


----------



## Snave

Thanks for the replies everyone, dust seems like the likely explanation so I'll have to send them back to Japan I guess. BTW is there anyone out there in Perth, Australia with a Stax amp I could plug into, just to eliminate a problem with my 323s?


----------



## MDR30

Anyone got a pair of SRX pads in good condition, or know where I can get some, shipped to Europe?


----------



## soren_brix

Quote: 





squirec said:


> @krmathis
> 
> You said that ' It seemed to lack some of the warmth and "magic" I get from of the SRM-007t. Maybe because the Lyngdorf is a fully digital solid state amplifier, while the SRM-007t is solid state/tube. Or perhaps because the SRD-7/MK2 add something to the sound that? I really don't know.'
> 
> ...


 
  I tend to agree with your experience: "
  If I had the SRD-7/mk2 and the 404, would I buy the 006t? probably not ... not that big a difference.
  "


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Have had the pleasure of spending time with the stax 407.  A very nice set of cans indeed.  so different then my sr-lambdas.  Much more forward midrange, at least with the 252s amp.  I guess more resolving would be another description.  Not really sure which I can say I prefer, they are just different.
   
  what is considered the best in the pro lambda line?


----------



## eric65

Hello.
I' m French.
Sorry for my poor English
It’s my first intervention in this thread.
Just to say i have 009 Stax headphone with tow amps: the SMR 727-II stax amp and, it is verry more orignaly the Audiovalve RKV Mark II amp directly coupled to has WooAudio Wee with the specialy adaptator  (for the jack to the HP enter of the Wee) (See the picture). 
The RKV is amp for electrodynamic headphone with 3 watts power outpur and n it is the most intersting, with 80 max RMS output volts.
With the WEE and the 1:25 at 1:50 ratio volts amplificator transformator, the voltage output of the WEE is to amplify to on 2000 at 4000 volts RMS! (Its enought too burn the headphone 



)
The most important with it's originaly association with RKV-WEE + 009 is i obtain has very very euphonious sound. The sound is no hard or shoulty in the hight-medium when your hear femal voice at hight level (NB : it is the situation with the 727 amp). The sound is very plaisant with good harmonics and also very good neutrality. It-is possibility that this amp is better sound that the all Stax amps (323S ; 727 and 007t2) for less money.
If you are interested you can see the french forum "HCFR" at  "Club des Heureux propriétaires de casque Stax"  for more picture and test.
(NB : you can use the google translation French to English il you are interested)

Thank to tolerate my very poor English.


----------



## arnaud

Eric, nice to see you over here! 
  To summarize your post:
  - you have obtained good results driving the sr009 using an audiovalve rkv driving a wee using a custom 1/4inch to bare wires adaptor cable
  - you also own an srm-727 amp but found it shouty at higher volume levels with the sr009
  - you've found the rkv-wee a much better fit for the 009 with much more euphonic sound and no deterioration with increased volume level
  - you mention that the rkv can swing up to 80V so with the wee that has a step up ratio of 1:25 (you found through your own tests it was more like 1:50), there is sufficient voltage swing to damage the headphone (and at least much more headroom than the stax direct coupled amps in production)
  - you surmise that the association rkv+wee might be a better fit for the 009 than any of the stax amps in production (and also better value consedering the stax prices in france)
   
  arnaud


----------



## DefQon

Interesting way of powering those 009's from the HP/out jack of the RKV to the Wee. I've always wondered what the OTL RKV sounds like with other normal TOTL headphones. Last auction that ended was about 1400 euro's 4 years ago on ebay. I remember reading reviews praising on them back in 04.


----------



## scott16

I got an SRM1-MK2 Amp and it seems like the sound isn't near as loud as when it was new,
  I think it's a problem with the Amp (not the headphones) b.c both my Sigma and Lambda Pros seem too low volume
  what could be causing this problem?


----------



## ymv

Hey guys,
   
  anyone know how to open the plastic case around the transformer for modifying the voltage of the SRM-323S?


----------



## SquireC

@eric65
   
  Did you order your WEE from the USA or did you buy it in France? If so, where in France?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





scott16 said:


> I got an SRM1-MK2 Amp and it seems like the sound isn't near as loud as when it was new,
> I think it's a problem with the Amp (not the headphones) b.c both my Sigma and Lambda Pros seem too low volume
> what could be causing this problem?


 
  Could be your hearing is getting progressively damaged....or just declining due to age.
   
  Good idea to use a sound level meter and check the level you're listening at from time to time.
   
   


> [size=medium] 85 dB greater than 8-hour listening will cause permanent hearing damage
> 85 - 90 dB 2-hour  listening will cause permanent hearing damage
> 90 - 100 dB 1 to 2-hour  listening will cause permanent hearing damage
> 100 - 110 between 2 and 15 minutes  listening will cause permanent hearing damage
> ...


 [size=medium] From http://www.lowertheboom.org/trice/safedblevels.htm[/size]
 [size=medium]  [/size]
 [size=medium] You can download a reasonably accurate SPL meter app for iPhone / iPad / Android, and in fact you can even get a calibrated mic that plugs into your phone from Parts Express for about $18  http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=390-810[/size]


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> Hello.
> I' m French.
> Sorry for my poor English
> It’s my first intervention in this thread.
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Eric, nice to see you over here!
> To summarize your post:
> - you have obtained good results driving the sr009 using an audiovalve rkv driving a wee using a custom 1/4inch to bare wires adaptor cable
> - you also own an srm-727 amp but found it shouty at higher volume levels with the sr009
> ...


 
   
  Quote SquireC
   
 @eric65
  
 Did you order your WEE from the USA or did you buy it in France? If so, where in France?
   
   
   
It is more complicated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
I bought the WEE, the RKV and the custom 1/4inch to bare wires adaptor cable, from a friend.
   
My friend bought the WEE in second-hand (300 dollars US i think) from a German audiophile.
   
This German audiophile had to buy the WEE directly from WooAudio in the United States.
   
Eric


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Could be your hearing is getting progressively damaged....or just declining due to age.
> 
> Good idea to use a sound level meter and check the level you're listening at from time to time.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
   
*Be careful with the RKV/WEE for your ear .*
   
   
*The input impedance of the WEE* (and therefore the output for any amplifier connected upstream of the WEE), input impedance of the WEE which is *100 Kilo-Ohms* (I quote: "Input Impedance: 100 Kilo-Ohms"). The input impedance of the WEE, very high (100 Kilo-Ohms) operates all amplifiers connected to WEE voltage, and not amperage. I measured the input impedance of the RKV WEE with a frequency of 500 Hz sine signal with an input of 0.20 volts WEE giving a rating of 2 micro amp with 009 connected to the WEE listening level of about 83 dB SPL (within 2 dB) for an input signal 0.203 Volts to be precise, a calculated resistance R = U / I = 0.203/0. 000 002 = 101 500 Ohms or so about *100 Kilo-Ohms* , corresponding well with the manufacturer's specifications for the input impedance of WEE.
   
 "How WEE can it work with *0.2 volts* if it needs *5 volts* minimum ( by Jack Woo)? "
 Well, no problem with that, thanks to the volume knob RKV can be pushed to give a Output voltage up to 80 Volts and also thanks to the transformer WEE multiplying the input voltage by WEE one factor 50 ( 1:50 ) to be 50 times higher in the WEE Stax headphones.
   
 I give a few examples (based on the position of the volume knob potentiometer RKV) 
   
-  with an input signal of WEE of *0.2 Volts* (RKV the volume knob in early stroke) (0.2 V x 50 = 10 V output WEE) WEE 009 provides the noise level of about *83 dB* SPL (at 2 dB) 
-  with an input signal of the WEE *2 Volts* (after further potentiometer volume RKV) (or V 2 x 50 = 100 V at the output of WEE), the WEE 009 provides a level SPL sound approximately *103 dB *(at 2 dB)
- with an input signal of the WEE *5 Volts** *(pushing further the volume control on the RKV) (V or 5 x 50= 250 V at the output of WEE) WEE 009 provides the sound level SPL of about *111 dB *(at 2 dB) 
- with an input signal of WEE *20 Volts** *(pushing again (much) further potentiometer volume RKV) (20 V x 50= 1000 V at the output of the WEE), the WEE 009 provides a noise level of around *123 dB* SPL (at 2 dB) 
            - with an input signal of the WEE *80 Volts* ( pushing up the volume knob of the RKV) (80 V x 50 = 4000 V output WEE) WEE 009 provides the sound level SPL of approximately* 135 dB* (at 2 dB)
Here, it suffices push a little further the volume knob of the RKV to have all the desired sound level , until they explode the eardrums (and helmet if you exceed the 009 maximum sound level not to exceed *118 dB* in penalty grill head-phone ) 
   
Eric


----------



## spritzer

Anything above 1200Vp-p and the drivers are toast so keep that in mind. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Interesting way of powering those 009's from the HP/out jack of the RKV to the Wee. I've always wondered what the OTL RKV sounds like with other normal TOTL headphones. Last auction that ended was about 1400 euro's 4 years ago on ebay. I remember reading reviews praising on them back in 04.


 
   
  The RKV design is quite bad to put it mildly so I'd take the reviews from back then with a few pounds of salt.  Some people tried to modify the RKV but there is no way to polish that particular circuit. 
   
  Quote: 





scott16 said:


> I got an SRM1-MK2 Amp and it seems like the sound isn't near as loud as when it was new,
> I think it's a problem with the Amp (not the headphones) b.c both my Sigma and Lambda Pros seem too low volume
> what could be causing this problem?


 
   
  Bias supply has some fault?  It could just be outputting the B+ under certain fault conditions and that would lead to lower volume level.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Anything above 1200Vp-p and the drivers are toast so keep that in mind.
> 
> 
> The RKV design is quite bad to put it mildly so I'd take the reviews from back then with a few pounds of salt.  Some people tried to modify the RKV but there is no way to polish that particular circuit.


 
   
   
“ The RKV design is quite bad ” 
   
 Perhaps, but the sound is very good, particulary with the 009 (with the WEE adaptator)
 Really good synergy and euphonique sound with the OTL RKV-WEE + 009 ; better sound than with the 727 amp without loss of definition, with more curvature and more bodies in the listening. 
A great sound. 
Delighted.


----------



## spritzer

Well, high fidelity isn't for everybody.


----------



## cjfrbw

A great amp for using Stax with transformer adaptors is one of the old VFET sony TA 4650  30watts/ch in good operating condition, usually a few C notes on bay, if you want all solid state.
   
  Fatigue free listening, great detail, spacious, plenty of power for Stax with transformer adaptor, very close to a tube experience.
   
  There is a power amp input/ preamp output to bypass the preamp if desired.
   
  I really prefer transformer adaptor listening with an amp, I have modified two stax boxes with upgraded  transformers, one has new production Dyna Z565 at 1:31 and the other has old iron 25 watt Stancor A-3311 PP trannies at 1:50.
   
  Both modified trannie boxes sound spectacular albeit ugly to look at.
   
  I prefer 300b tubes, but found that they don't have enough power for my home repaired 507 Stax, they would clip on bass transients, so I switched to a vintage Luxman MQ68c push pull tube amp (30w/ch triode) or the Sony VFET, both amps sound great.
   
   I can still use 300b with traditional Lambda normal bias.  Pic is of butt ugly Stancor A-3311 modified SRD 5, it needs some beauty work and a box.


----------



## arnaud

Yes it could could a little better . Awesome nevertheless


----------



## mwilson

Completely off-topic, but this brought a smile to my face and made me think of spritzer. What a gorgeous place.
   
  http://vimeo.com/63042888


----------



## DefQon

Loved that intro footage. Shame Iceland is so far, apparently they have goddess looking females inhabiting the country. Me like


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Loved that intro footage. Shame Iceland is so far, apparently they have goddess looking females inhabiting the country. Me like


 
  Who are well over 6 feet


----------



## DefQon

Well I'm about exact 6 feet so no problem for me. If anything for that matter a step ladder would help.  * (¬‿¬)*


----------



## milosz

Some physics guys at UC-Berkeley have made an electrostatic driver with a graphene diaphragm. http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/news/2013/mar/29/graphene-loudspeaker-could-rival-commercial-speakers-and-earphones
   
  Wonder if that will ever go anywhere.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Well, high fidelity isn't for everybody.


 
   
  This made my day.


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





milosz said:


> This made my day.


 
  x 2


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Completely off-topic, but this brought a smile to my face and made me think of spritzer. What a gorgeous place.
> 
> http://vimeo.com/63042888


 
  The Nordic equivalent of the Sennheiser Veil........
   
   
  Quote: 





> Quote:johnmclean
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  x 3
   
  But not nearly as entertaining as:-
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/656394/too-much-competition-what-headphones-should-i-get-for-100-180
   
  Start from post 15.


----------



## Maxvla

Wink, FYI you can link threads to a specific post for people to start from. Just copy the link from the top right that says the post number.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/656394/too-much-competition-what-headphones-should-i-get-for-100-180#post_9281358


----------



## DefQon

Oh man, that thread was good when warren broke everything down in his post.


----------



## Argybargy

Given current exchange rates, what would be a good purchase price for a used 009 in excellent condition in box? A price I could patiently wait for over 1-3 months, not having a need to purchase immediately.


----------



## spritzer

Speaking of transformers, the Mafia has been there and done that...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   

   
   That one was about 8kg... 
   
  Quote: 





mwilson said:


> Completely off-topic, but this brought a smile to my face and made me think of spritzer. What a gorgeous place.
> 
> http://vimeo.com/63042888


 
   
  It's a nice picture but doctored quite a bit.  IMO the amount of light isn't all that impressive, how it moves in the sky is though.


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Speaking of transformers, the Mafia has been there and done that...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Gorgeous.
   
My wire weed-gardens have atrocious esthetics, but sound great. Once I get them working properly, I have a tendency to just listen and do not persist on the looks.  Getting quality transformers is the problem, which is my reservation about the commercial products.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Some physics guys at UC-Berkeley have made an electrostatic driver with a graphene diaphragm. http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/news/2013/mar/29/graphene-loudspeaker-could-rival-commercial-speakers-and-earphones
> 
> Wonder if that will ever go anywhere.


 
   
  Nice if it sparks a renewed interest is stat designs. They call it an electrostatically driven graphene speaker (EDGS). http://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1303/1303.2391.pdf
   
  Current stat membranes are pretty thin but this would challenge the membraneless ionophone.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionophone.


----------



## edstrelow

I just received an SRX MKIII Pro from anthonyfirst. It is now sitting in my office SRM1 MK2 amp along with the lowbias SRXIII.  My first impressions of the Pro are very good. It has little or none of the nasal honk of the low bias and a much better bass response. Why on earth didn't Stax make more of them?
   
  This one is not AN original model but rather an SRXII with  Gamma Pro drivers and cable. Of course my low bias model is also modded with a silver cable added by a headfier whom I don't recall.  My first Stax was an SRXIII low bias which I sold to a  friend to the UK.  I remember it somewhat fondly and later bought the silver cable model through Head-Fi.  From time to time I really like it but it definitely needs a boost in the bass to take one away from other phones.   The Pro version solveS this problem quite well.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-X Mk3 Pro is indeed quite special.  Truly fixes everything that was wrong with the normal bias version and makes the Grado HP1000 sound a bit... off to be honest. 
   
  Going by the serial numbers on the real Mk3 Pro's that I've owned Stax made almost 1000 of them but not many were sold to normal owners.  Most were used as professional monitor sets and the 4070 came about as some of those users want to get new sets.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The RKV design is quite bad to put it mildly so I'd take the reviews from back then with a few pounds of salt.  Some people tried to modify the RKV but there is no way to polish that particular circuit.


 
   
   
  Hello Spritzer.
   
  Can you explain to me why, according you, the circuits of the amplifier OTL RKV Mark2 would be bad, in particular for an original direct association with the WEE+009 ? Not enough output voltage ? Too much distorsion ? Bad harmonious ?
  Thank you for your expertise.
   
  Attached a link towards the technical documentation of the Audiovalve RKV mark 2 ; a Germanic OTL amplifier.
http://www.audiovalve.info/nav/rkv_en.html
   
  As well as a review of this amplifier in head-fi
http://www.head-fi.org/t/13794/audiovalve-rkv-mk-ii-review
   
  PS : Here a photography of my system at the house; pleasant?
  The SMR 007t2 is in loan this WE by a friend.
   

   
http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/549442DSC0277b.jpg (original photo)
   
  Audiomat D1 drive and dac Audiomat Maestro Reference
  SRM 727 ; SRM 007T2 ; RKV-WEE
  007 mk2/“mk3“ ; 009
  Connection cables : Actinote Aria


----------



## jaycalgary

I paid a lot to get a pristine pair of SR-X Mk3 Pro's but sure is a bargain compared to what a pair of Grado HP1000's seem to cost.


----------



## grokit

whoops got my threads mixed up


----------



## singh

it all started by a simple comment here that the Lambda signature has " super fast transients "
  Me willing to try that, started my pursuit.
   - first i confused Lambda signature for lambda 404 signature, then thought " hay 404 LE is the better version of it, lets get that " , so got 404LE.
   - then i came to know that original pro and signature had thinner diaphragm, so i got the original Pro.
   - Before all that i had the LNS.
   - now 2 days back i won an auction for 404 signature and its 006 amp.
   - Still dont have the said "signature"
   
  looking back ...i have become a lambda collector!


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Nice if it sparks a renewed interest is stat designs. They call it an electrostatically driven graphene speaker (EDGS). http://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1303/1303.2391.pdf
> 
> Current stat membranes are pretty thin but this would challenge the membraneless ionophone.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionophone.


 
  That paper on arxiv.org  looks as though it was typed on some old typewriter, then scanned in.  Odd appearance.


----------



## MDR30

Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> Anyone got a pair of SRX pads in good condition, or know where I can get some, shipped to Europe?


 
   
  Since the SRX is discussed, I repeat my humble request for pads. Could there be any Japanes company offering them on the web?


----------



## DefQon

Electronicsmod.uk, Audiocubes, you can also try pm'ing AnthonyFirst who may have some pads for the SR-X. Try contacting one of the US Stax suppliers, Yama or so.


----------



## spritzer

The Stax site still lists that replacement pads are available for the SR-X so they should be easy to source. 
  Quote: 





eric65 said:


> Hello Spritzer.
> 
> Can you explain to me why, according you, the circuits of the amplifier OTL RKV Mark2 would be bad, in particular for an original direct association with the WEE+009 ? Not enough output voltage ? Too much distorsion ? Bad harmonious ?
> Thank you for your expertise.


 
   
  It's a cheap opamp driving a basic tube based phase splitter and a very dubious output stage.  After all that you send the signal through a cheap PSU capacitor...  Not good by any standard and the only reason it was popular back in the day was a dire lack of headphone amps.  Most of the competition was even worse, basic opamp buffers and almost no tube amps to speak of.  Once there were more amps the interest in the RKV died quickly.


----------



## eric65

[size=18.0pt]Confrontation of the SRM 727 007t2 and RKV-WEE on 009 and 007[/size]   
   

   
   
  [size=11pt]Good evening, I finally passed in the listening in the afternoon of 3 systems of development of foots the bill Stax SR 007 mk3 and SR 009 at my disposal: amplis Stax SRM 727-II (mine); SRM 007t2 (that of Pierre) and combi RKV MK2 + WooAudio WEE; every ampli connected on good phase sector (what obliged me to invert the sense(direction) of the cordon sector between the WEE-RKV and the amplis Stax (having no same visible sense of it phase)[/size]
   
   
  [size=11pt]. Results on the listening of a test CD (Stéphane Grappelli and Michel Petrucciani in the album Flamingo)[/size]
   

   
   
  [size=11pt]Reserved CD because very well registered(recorded), but however quickly hard in the treble with a bad system; quickly lung and dislocated in the grave (followed by the double bass) with a bad system; brief, quickly unpleasant to listen to with a bad system  [/size]
   
  [size=11pt]And the winner is.[/size]
 [size=11pt]... The walkman MP3 of my wife:mdr: [/size]
 It is not true, because it is so small that I did not find him where he hides and thus I was not able to test him …

 And the winner(conqueror) is …

 To go to you quickly the knowledge  

 I proceeded with method  
   
  [size=11pt]At first listening of the range 4 of this test CD Flamingo with my 727 + 007 mk3: results : intimist sound stage (that is not extra wide); soft and inarticulate basses (not obvious to follow), but there is of the curvature ( a soft curvature); the violin and the piano are not unpleasant to hear, stamps are rather fine, but with a rather curious presentation of " clearly - dark ". [/size]
 [size=11pt]I am understandable: the top-medium is rather dark (set back), the low medium is rather carnal, but there is also a bright aura and a sparkling of the very clear acute extreme, being able on this recording, by its insistence(emphasis) for the acute percussions and harmonious acute of the violin, the tiring future.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]By listening to the same range 4 of this test CD Flamingo with my 007 mk3, but this time connected on him 007t2 of Pierre, I found the a little better listening in the sense than 007t2 limit, in my ear, the sparkling of the acute extreme which I find with 007 mk3 + 727. Stamps are also more refined; the a little wider, more clean sound image. The basses of 007 mk3 + 007t2 are a little bit set back with regard to that of 007 mk3 + 727, not very dynamic, but maybe be a little more articulated  than those of 727 with 007 mk3. The listening of 007 mk3 with him 007t2 is globally more pleasant, less tiring in the acute extreme than with 727, a little more refined, but without being an outstanding leader in dynamism. [/size]
  [size=11pt]Thus I have in the end a small preference of 007t2 + 007mk3 with regard to727 + 007mk3.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Now let us cross tuned tothe range 4 of this test CD Flamingo with my 727 + 009. Then there, it is one any other listening: as said it my friend Jean-Marc, as 007 seems round, as 009 appears by clear and defined contrast; it is almost the day and at night . First of all, the sound stage of 009 is wider and detailed(retailed) that that of 007 (most open sound). The dynamics is much better, with low sandbanks, articulated, very readable, less intense than those of 007, but far clearer; the grave extreme is very present.[/size] [size=11pt]The sound is more clear with stamps of the violin and the more realistic, hard-hitting piano for the piano, but regrettably a little bit hard for these instruments at high level of listening. The acute extreme is less present, less twinkling than with 007, what in the end is more restful and more natural more also. The sound is rather alive, dynamic, but a little bit hard, " a little bit raw ".[/size]
   
  [size=10pt]When is it now the listening of 009 with 007 t2 of Pierre? (Always with the same test CD)[/size]
 [size=10pt]And well I am going to surprise you, it is not for me the best listening, and I prefer that of 727 with 009 (by listening to not too hardly). 007t2 differs from 727 by a little less presence in the grave, even if very clean(appropriate) with 009, but it is a little bit it's a pity to listen to one 009 the presence of which in the grave is sometimes little " just " (especially by comparison with 007); also, he limits slightly the acute extreme (always with regard to 727), what is rather good for 007 mk3, but a little bit it's a pity with 009 which has him no problem in the acute extreme.[/size][size=11pt] Certainly stamps are more refined than those of 727 who in comparison make more "raw", but is missing something in 007t2 (with regard to 727), a stalk of life. Indeed, I find the listening of 007t2 very civilized, very sophisticated, but being strangely lacking life, as disinfected. It is "squeaky clean", but "slightly too squeaky clean" for my taste. It is very clear for the listening of this CD Flamingo: with 727 + 009 we want to stamp with the rhythm of the musicians and to increase the volume of the sound, until be called in to order, because the sound of 727 eventually becomes hard and the tone of the piano and the unpleasant violin at high level of listening; but the rhythm is there, the life is there[/size].
  [size=11pt]With him 007t2 we can increase more easily the sound, but that if disinfected rest (too squeaky clean, "not rather" "raw"("gross")). [/size]
 [size=11pt]Damage.[/size]

 Well, I finished it with my comparative degree …

 Except that I forgot to speak to you about the listening of 007mk3 and about 009 with the combi RKV + WEE (with the good phase sector (inverted with regard to that of the amplis Stax) for the WEE)
 And well, it is necessary to speak to you about it  
   
  [size=11pt]First of all, listen to of the range 4 of this test CD Flamingo with my RKV-WEE + 007 mk3: results : improved sound scene(stage) and …[/size]
 [size=11pt]And the headphones 007 mk3 becomes unrecognizable, transfigured in its dynamics by the RKV-WEE: and well that moves and 007 wakes up finally: powerful, robust, rhythmical, very readable basses: we stamp; we go up the sound, there is of the life, but we are called back by the acute extreme, always too present, which becomes getting tired for a too high level of listening. The neutrality is certainly not the key point with grave sound everything in acute curvature, this high a little bit set back medium and this extreme sparkling (however not unpleasant to listen to on the condition of not pushing too far the potentiometer of volume).[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]The best rest to be told you for the end, the listening of 009 with the RKV-WEE: and well, as said it Jean-Marie, it could be completed, because gathering the best of each of the previous listening: the sound stage: she is strangely wide, of course with regard to(compared with) that of 007 mk3, but also with regard to(compared with) that 2 amplis Stax (727 and 007t2) with 009. There is of the life, the rhythm, it is without appeal with regard to the listening of 009 on him 007t2 who by contrast made disinfected, as too much civilized ; there is some strength and the power: the rhythm of the bass and the percussions urges you instinctively to go(take) up the sound, and the more one goes up the sound, the more it is good, and we still increase the potentiometer of volume of the RKV, without limit or almost.[/size] ( If it is the small voice which says to me, stops there, because it becomes unreasonable; we are not in a concert live, and you are quickly going to become deaf if I continue to go(take) up the sound like that. But in the hearing, none limits visible; more we increase the sound, better is the scale, the rhythm, the life … 
   
  [size=11pt]As for stamps, the RKV-WEE + 009 manages of the exploit to obtain the quality of the stamps of 007t2, but with the life in more (with a contrasted, dynamic, alive sound, being able to be rough (percussions at strong level of listening), but also of a very big sweetness and a subtlety, on different musical passages), and not a little bit flat and disinfected as that of 007t2.[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]I thus let on you decide on the winner of this confrontation   [/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Unless the walkman MP3 of my wife knocks down the situation …[/size]
   
  [size=11pt]Eric[/size]


----------



## Beefy

I'm going to hate myself in the morning for this, but it must be said........

...... any chance you can try that again in English?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





beefy said:


> I'm going to hate myself in the morning for this, but it must be said........
> 
> ...... any chance you can try that again in English?


 
   
  Why don't you understand French mon confrere Canadien?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I paid a lot to get a pristine pair of SR-X Mk3 Pro's but sure is a bargain compared to what a pair of Grado HP1000's seem to cost.


 
   
  Definitely.
   
  What do you think about them? My impression is that they are delightfully neutral, the best I have ever heard.
   
  Bass is good although I suspect not as deep as my Lambda 404 but still very good.


----------



## jaycalgary

I have only listened to that pair of SR-X MK3 Pro's for a short while but as soon as I put them on they go near the top of my list. I also have 404le's that get next to no head time. I think I can only judge the bass weight over bass depth the best and the SR-X pro's probably only come 2nd to the 007 mk1's. Even the 007's have significantly more bass weight than the 009's. I find both the 009's and the SR-X pro's bright and the SR-X pro's a little less refined and edgy compared to the 009's. Just a rough opinion.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> Bonsoir, j'ai finalement passé à l'écoute dans l'après-midi du 3 systèmes de développement de la paie la facture Stax SR 007 mk3 et SR 009 à ma disposition: amplis Stax SRM 727-II (le mien); SRM 007t2 (celle de Pierre) et combi RKV MK2 + WooAudio WEE, chaque ampli branché sur le secteur de phase bon (ce qui m'a obligé à inverser le sens (direction) du secteur de cordon entre le WEE-RKV et les amplis Stax (n'ayant pas de même sens visible de celui-ci phases)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## oogabooga

Eric - thanks for sharing your thoughts (and to wink for posting the original report). Merci Eric pour votre opinions!
   
  Would I be correct to say that:
  - with the SR-007, you prefer the 007tII amp
  - with the SR-009, you prefer the 727 amp over the 007tII, but you like the 009 + RKV/WEE the best
   
  Aussi, le mot pour 'timbre' en anglais n'est pas 'stamp'. Un 'stamp' est un timbre pour la poste. Le timbre du son c'est 'timbre' ou 'tone' en anglais.
  http://www.wordreference.com/fren/timbre
    
   
  Quote:


edstrelow said:


> Why don't you understand French mon confrere Canadien?


 
   
  I've been living in Montréal for two years now et mon français est encore le suck. I'm sure I made no less than five mistakes in my above sentences.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> Eric - thanks for sharing your thoughts (and to wink for posting the original report). Merci Eric pour votre opinions!
> 
> Would I be correct to say that:
> - with the SR-007, you prefer the 007tII amp
> ...


 
   Hello oogabooga 
   
   
  Thank you for the corrections of the English French automatic translator
  My English is really very poor  (oops)
   
  Here is the link in the published original version (in French) : http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3855.html
   
 " Would I be correct to say that:
 - with the SR-007, you prefer the 007tII amp
 - with the SR-009, you prefer the 727 amp over the 007tII, but you like the 009 + RKV/WEE the best "

   
  Yes, perfectly.
   
  Eric


----------



## milosz

यदि फ्रेंच में टिप्पणी स्वीकार्य हैं, क्यों नहीं हिन्दी?


----------



## gilency

If comments are acceptable in French, why not Hindi?
Si señor !


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Älkää nyt viitsikö, hyvät ihmiset. Eivät kaikki osaa hyvin Englantia.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





milosz said:


> यदि फ्रेंच में टिप्पणी स्वीकार्य हैं, क्यों नहीं हिन्दी?


 

 lol that's a very correct translation, google is good!  ( choice of words is a bit too lenient though )


----------



## spritzer

Ég er ekki alveg viss hvurn andskotann þessir einstaklingar eru að röfla.


----------



## eric65

[size=18pt]Confrontation of the SRM 727 007t2 and RKV-WEE on 009 and 007[/size]
*(Continuation and at the end)*
   





   
   
Voici un lien pour la suite de ma publication (en français) 





Here is the link in the published version (in french) : http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3870.html
   
  Eric
   
(PS : you can use the google French English automatic translator for more understanding)


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Hi!
   
  I'm considering to make "Spritzer mod" to my SRM-727II. But I wondering, how does this mod affect to upper midrange sound? My ears are quite sensitive to peaks of these frequencies, and my unmodded SRM-727II + SR-009 combo have just right upper midrange level to my ears now.
   
  So, should I mod or should I leave SRM-727II as it is?


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I have only listened to that pair of SR-X MK3 Pro's for a short while but as soon as I put them on they go near the top of my list. I also have 404le's that get next to no head time. I think I can only judge the bass weight over bass depth the best and the SR-X pro's probably only come 2nd to the 007 mk1's. Even the 007's have significantly more bass weight than the 009's. I find both the 009's and the SR-X pro's bright and the SR-X pro's a little less refined and edgy compared to the 009's. Just a rough opinion.


 
   
  I find some lack of refinement in the SRXIII Pro's, probably due to a loss in timbre compared to the Stax 007A.  I have yet to hear the 009's.  I don't find them especially treblish or sibilant. ( I hope that's not just my high frequency hearing crapping out with age. Possibly there is some difference between the original SRX's you have and my modded version )  However there strength is what seems like a total absence of coloration. I am hearing old material in a new
  way.  And, these phones compare well to other Staxen cost 5-10 times as much.   Can you imagine what they might be like with a modern, 007/009  type of diaphragm?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





oogabooga said:


> I've been living in Montréal for two years now et mon français est encore le suck. I'm sure I made no less than five mistakes in my above sentences.


 
  Let's not forget that there's French and then there's Quebecois.


----------



## Jodet

Has it been a year since Stax got bought? 
   
  Any fallout from that? 
   
  Who is the Stax importer these days?   Are there any good places to buy Stax in the U.S.?


----------



## En_R

Quote: 





jodet said:


> Has it been a year since Stax got bought?
> 
> Any fallout from that?
> 
> Who is the Stax importer these days?   Are there any good places to buy Stax in the U.S.?


 
   
  No fallout, business continues as usual.

 For 009/007a/407/507- - Pricejapan. No need to look anywhere else. For older stax.. E-Bay and Rinkya/Kobuten (basically auctions.yahoo.jp, but they bid for you and ship the product to you for a fee). Of course getting there are various forum markets (head-fi, audiogon, etc).


----------



## wink

Mimi nina uhakika kabisa nini shetani watu hawa ni ROFL.


----------



## DefQon

So what's with the weird languages going on now? Anyway, something interesting to make note of and some of you might frown at me, but an E11 (high gain, 1 eq bass) + my CD950's really sound close and similar to my Lambda Pro's. Pretty damn good if you ask me for yet another vintage can and being closed form factor.


----------



## anetode

блять


----------



## ALSO

ここはスタックス系なので日本語もう当然でしょう。


----------



## arnaud

Attempt at translating Eric's review below...

Headphones: SR-007mk2 with an additional thin cotton layer in front of the driver (earpad cavity) + partial blocking of the vents, SR-009 (stock form)
Amps: SRM 727II, SRM 007t2, Audiovalve RKV mk2 + Woo Audio WEE (using custom 1/4in headphone plug to bare wires to drive the wee from the rkv headphone out)
Source: audiomat (refer to previous post for more details)
CD: Stéphane Grappelli et Michel Petrucciani dans l’album Flamingo (a good quality recording but that can sound hard in the highs as well as turn to flabby / inconsistent bass with the wrong playback system)

First, listened to track 4 with the 727+ modded Omega 2: intimate soundstage (not very wide) ; bass is wholly and a bit disjointed (not easy to follow the bass lines), but the sound is well rounded (rather mellow sounding) ; violin and piano sound ok, delicate tones but a strange mixture of dark and bright sound at the same time. Indeed, lower mids are quite present, upper mids are rather attenuated, while we can easily hear some extra presence in the treble region which can lead to fatigue with this recording (a reason why I added a thin layer of cotton to my 007 after plugging the vent).

Next came the modded 007mk2 with the srm007t2. It's a little better than before in the sense the amp attenuates this tendency to get a sparkly treble with the previous headphone / amp combo. The tonality is also more refined. Image width is slightly larger, cleaner. Bass is a notch down in level, the sound isn't very lively but maybe the bass sounds a tiny bit tighter than through the 727. Overall, a more pleasing type of listening, with less fatigue, more refinment, but lacking in liveliness and impact. I prefer this combo slightly more than the previous one.

Now 727+009. It's a whole different experience. While the Omega 2 sounds slightly dark and rounded, the 009 sounds in contrast very clear and resolved ; it's almost day and night. First, the soundstage width is much larger and detailed than with the omega 2 (the 009 sounds more open). The 009 is much more dynamic sounding with tight and well resolved bass, in lesser quantity than the omega 2 but much cleaner. Extreme lows are also present. The sound is much more clear with much more realistic tonality for the violin and piano ; drums and piano sound impactful but unfortunately also a bit hard sounding at higher volume levels. The upper treble is less present, less sparkly than the 007, which in the end is less fatiguing and more natural sounding. The sound is more lively, dynamic, but with a tendency to sound a bit hard and rough when you push the volume.

Next the 009 with SRM 007t2. Well, it might be surprising but I prefer the association with the 727 amp (as long as you keep the listening level sufficiently low). The 007t2 leads to less bass presence which, even if very clean with the 009, does not pair so well because the headphone can feel a bit lean in the bass department already (especially when compared to the omega 2). Furthermore, the 007t2 rolls off the upper treble (in comparison to the 727), which works well with my modded Omega 2, but is unfortunate for the 009, since this phone does not have any particular issue in the highs. Tonality is however more refined with the 007t2, the 727 sounding a bit rough in comparison, but something is missing, some liveliness for instance.
Indeed, I find the 009-007t2 combo too polite, very refined but lacking severely in the liveliness, dull sounding. The sound is clean but a bit too clean for my taste. It's very audible for this CD: the experience with the 727 amp makes you want to tap the foot following the rhythm and increase the volume (until it starts to go south). It is a very lively rendering with good prat. 
With the 007t2, you can easily increase the volume, but the sound remains dull (too clean, lacking edge). Disappointing.

Next, track 4 again with the modded Omega 2 and the rkv-wee. Soundstage width is increased and the modded Omega 2 is metamorphosed, as if transcended by the association with the rkv-wee.
The sound is very impactful, which finally wakes up the omega 2: powerful bass, with good foundation, and easy to follow. It induces foot tapping, you want to push the volume, there's life. Only issue is the upper treble, still too present, which can sound fatiguing at high listening level over time. Probably my modded Omega 2 isn't very neutral sounding with its rounded bass, attenuated upper midrange and sparkly highs.

At last comes the association 009 with rkv-wee. It's a combination of the best of each of the previous listenings. Soundstage is surprisingly large, compared to the modded Omega 2 as well as the 009/727 & 009/007t2 combos. It's lively, much much better than the 009/007t2 combo. The sound is powerful: bass and drums rhythm make you want to increase the volume. The louder it gets, the better it sounds, only the voice of reason makes me get back to reasonable level (no need to go death so early). But basically, there's no apparent ceiling, you can keep increase the volume and it keeps getting more lively.

In regards to tonality, the combo 009 + rkv-wee manages to keep the qualities of the 007t2 but with a more contrasted, lively, dynamic sound that can be both brutal at loud volume levels while also very soft and subtle on more intimate sections of the recording. 

In summary, you can easily guess which system I preferred after this comparison...

Eric



eric65 said:


> [COLOR=115098][SIZE=18pt]Confrontation of the SRM 727 007t2 and RKV-WEE on 009 and 007[/SIZE][/COLOR]


----------



## eric65

One great thank you Arnaud for the translation of the first part of my review. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Eric


----------



## jm1122

Hey guys, Thinking about pulling the trigger on a BHSE/SR-009 combo since the price of Yen keeps falling and it seems like now is as good as a time as any to buy. Should I expect significant improvement coming from a Burson Conductor/LCD-3 combo?


----------



## anetode

No you shouldn't. That way, when the 009/BHSE do arrive, their comparative awesomeness will be all the more of a pleasant shock.


----------



## jm1122

anetode said:


> No you shouldn't. That way, when the 009/BHSE do arrive, their comparative awesomeness will be all the more of a pleasant shock.



 
 Thanks for the response. I apologize about another is this better than that question, but I have no way of demoing a 009/BHSE combo so if I buy it will be going in blind or more appropriately deaf


----------



## DefQon

Apples and bananas comparison. LCDX all have that ortho'ish sound of being tad laid back, fun and engaging. The 009 will sound brighter in comparison but it offers out night and day difference with detail and clarity retrieval.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> One great thank you Arnaud for the translation of the first part of my review.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Now I really want to try a 009 with my WEE


----------



## rgs9200m

This review is a very different take from Tyll's amp shootout with the 009s recently,
  and also my impressions and what I *think* is the consensus that the 009s tend to brightness.
  I use the 007t/ii amp with my 009s (and warmish system cables) to tame brightness.
  I have never heard the 009s described as dull or rolled off, just the opposite.
  (I'm not questioning the integrity of the review, I just wanted to point out that it seems to be a unique take on things.)


----------



## eric65

Hello rgs9200m
   
The “luminosity” of the 007 mk2.5/mk3 concerns only the top of the treble (the ssss)
The “brightness” of the 009 concerns especially the top of the midrange (the chhhh)
With my system incorporating an drive + dac high-end (Audiomat) + cable also high-end, the feminine voice can be a little bit hard with the SRM 727, especially at strong level of listening; it is less the case with de SRM 007t2, softer and more sophisticated than 727 with 009.
For what I blame the SRM 007t2 it is a certain lack of life; a too much polished sound which can in the long run become boring.
It is not the case of the combi RKV-WEE + 009 that gathers the best of these two amplifiers (The rhythm, the life, the dynamics, the soundstage and the beauty of the timbre), without their defects.


----------



## eric65

Here the machine translation of google of the second part of my review.
  link : http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3870.html
   
  [size=19.09090805053711px]Comparison of SRM 727, SRM 007t2 and RKV-WEE on the 009 and 007[/size]
 

 "April 6, 2013 4:38 p.m.

 [size=1.3em] (Continued)[/size]
 [size=1.3em] 
Hello, I continued listening this afternoon three amplification systems Stax headphones SR 007 and SR 009 mk3 at my disposal: Stax SRM amp 727-II (mine) SRM 007t2 (as Pierre) and combi RKV MK2 + WooAudio WEE.[/size]
 [size=1.3em] Results of the listening test another CD, this time for voice, the sublime of the beautiful Nolwenn Leroy (pop singer) on his last Recording for the album "O Water Girls".[/size]
 [size=1.3em] Albums recorded quite well or at least better than the previous, sometimes inspired by the Celtic and Irish music, music that may appeal or less attractive, the central theme is the sea and its legends. [/size]
 [size=1.3em]  [/size]
 [size=1.3em] Like yesterday, I proceeded with method, and the results are no different ...[/size]
 [size=1.3em] First listen tracks 1, 3 and 6 of this album Nolwenn Leroy with my amp SRM stax headphones 727 + SR 007 "mk3 "(modified version of SR 007 mk2.5 by blocking the vents).[/size]
 [size=1.3em] Results: The soundstage is still intimate (not very large), the bass is still soft. [size=1.3em]On the voice of the singer, she is very sensual, very focused on the lower midrange; the top of midrange midrange is always giving back to voice a character somewhat erased back. The top of treble meanwhile still (too) present with some emphasis on sibilants ssss.[/size][/size]
 [size=1.3em]  [/size]
 [size=1.3em] Listening to the same songs with my headphones SR 007 mk3, but this time plugged into the amp SRM 007t2 Peter, I found listening much better with improved voice timbre (even better), mitigation sibilance on sss (less active), and also improved bass (better required). It is more balanced, harmonious listening (versus listening made ​​with 727). The soundstage is a little wider, cleaner. Dynamics remains wise. listening mk3 with the 007 007t2 SRM is generally more pleasant, less tiring in the top of treble with the 727, a little more refined, but not a lightning war momentum. (NB: I take the conclusion of my first CR) [/size]
 [size=1.3em] So I end the same preference to listening to the amp with headphone 007t2 SRM SR 007 mk3 amp compared to the SRM 727 used with the SR 007 mk3 , this time to listen to the voice of Nolwenn, and this even more clear than when I first CR with CD Petrucciani and Grappelli.[/size]
 [size=1.3em]  [/size]
 [size=1.3em] Now to listen to the same CD Nolwenn Leroy with my SRM 727 + SR 009 headphones. Listening is quite different from the headphone SR 007 mk3 + SRM 727. [/size]
 Lot of criteria on audio, listening is much better. 
 [size=small]W[/size]ith the SR 009 (+ SRM 727), the definition is much better compared to SR 007 mk3 (+ 727): more details, more intelligible, more presence to the voice. The soundstage is wider, more detailed than the 007 (its open). Dynamics is much better, with low dry articulated clearly legible, always a little less intense than those of SR 007, but much clearer. The voice is clearer, with less body (low midrange) with the 007, but it is much more present and especially appears to be more realistic, but in some respects, with the 727, this feminine voice may sometimes appear as hair accents sometimes hard on chhhh, especially at high listening levels sound. Raising the volume, this drought is accentuated with sometimes a slight disembodied voice. However, there is no problem with sibilants on sssss with 009 (+ 727) 007 mk3 unlike (+ 727). As in the first CR I think with the 009 + SR 727 sound is pretty lively, dynamic, but sometimes a little hard in the high (the chhhh) at high sound levels. 
  
 When is it now to listen SR 009 headset with SRM 007t2 Pierre? (Always with the same CD Nolwenn) As I said in the first CR, SRM 007t2 differs from the SRM 727 by a little less presence in the bass, although very clean with 009, and a light attenuation of the top treble (always compared to 727), which is quite beneficial for mk3 007 headphones (enough shimmering in the extreme high and low generous). Undoubtedly, the timbres of the SRM 007t2 are more refined than the 727 which in comparison are more "raw", this is especially true for listening to the voice of the pop singer Nolwenn, this beautiful voice on the SRM 727 is even more beautiful for the quality and finesse of stamps with SRM 007t2, there is no doubt. 
 But there's always a catch with the SRM 007t2 is that the voice loses some of its emotional and charm: the voice is less "sexy" as restraint and Academic singer recites the text (well incidentally) with SRM 007t2, but she does not sing with the emotion should be: something is missing, that's for sure: it's beautiful, smooth, polished, "clean" it feels scented soap, _no sweat ..._ (excuse me for this daring comparison ). As I said in my first CR, it still lacks something 007t2 (compared to 727): a bit of life. Finally, with the 009 + SRM 007t2, listening is good, but too wise and can even become boring. 
  
 Finally, I heard for the SR 009 headphones with RKV-WEE and made ​​several return with SRM 007t2 Peter to clearly identify the differences (always on listening to the CD Nolwenn Leroy, the same securities). 
 I like the voice of Nolwenn (even on radio-CD in the kitchen), but with the WEE + RKV-009 (and everything behind it) I can not be that lover, conquered and unconditional. Soundstage of The WEE + RKV-009: it is still surprisingly large, spacious, well detailed, very mixed. Above all, there is always life, rhythm, relief and it is no appeal from listening to the SRM 009 007t2 which by contrast seems too polished and sanitized, too "clean" (remember the smell of soap ). There is strength, conviction and emotion in the voice of Nolwenn, vibrant, sensual involved. We can not be than moved. The timbres are superb, both sweet, sweet, maybe a chouille less elegant than the SRM 007t2 (but more than the 727), but less so polished and smooth than the SRM 007t2, and so much more alive and expressive. 
  
 Anyway, the rendering of voice and rendering of dynamic headphones SR 009 associated RKV-WEE goes really far, far beyond the SRM 727 (which is not a bad amp with 009, but a little fishing on some of its hardness and voice recordings (especially in high volume listening sound) by a certain harshness stamps, and a soundstage less generous than that of the RKV combi-WEE). SRM 007t2 is also left behind, despite the apparent beauty of the timbres, elegance, but too much wisdom can turn asepsis, _then boredom ..._
 Eric
 [size=1.3em]  [/size]




Nolwenn Leroy (French pop singer)


----------



## arnaud

rgs9200m said:


> This review is a very different take from Tyll's amp shootout with the 009s recently,
> and also my impressions and what I *think* is the consensus that the 009s tend to brightness.
> I use the 007t/ii amp with my 009s (and warmish system cables) to tame brightness.
> I have never heard the 009s described as dull or rolled off, just the opposite.
> (I'm not questioning the integrity of the review, I just wanted to point out that it seems to be a unique take on things.)




I haven't tested the 007t2 in my system but two friends here did extensive comparisons with the 727A in their own rigs (both 009 owners) and I believe they both converged toward similar conclusions. Anakchan is one of them so maybe he'll chip in at some point.

As for the behavior of the 009 at higher volume levels, I also noticed it and it is consistent with Tyll's review.

Maybe my translation of Eric's words wasn't very good . There's a second part I will get to when time permits.

Arnaud


----------



## jaycalgary

Stax DMA-X2 that sure don't look like they were well cared for.
   
  http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649054666-very_rare_stax_dmax2/


----------



## livewire

Hey! That chick is nekked.


----------



## struggles

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Hey! That chick is nekked.


 
  She's French, it's okay...


----------



## gilency

I like nekked


----------



## model2220

Hi,

I'm new to Stax, got some Lambdas and now looking to get some Sigmas. I've had a normal bias pair offered to me for about £650, is this a fair price for Sigmas? 

Thanks


----------



## DefQon

$600 tops I would pay.


----------



## shipsupt

Unfortunately they are becoming pretty hard to find at around $600 if you're keen for a pair. 
   
  I assume they are in good condition for that kind of asking price?  I've seen the PRO versions going for more recently.  I haven't seen a normal bias pair sell in a while.


----------



## milosz

K-Mart Brand electrostatic headphones?
   
  Who made these?
   
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-K-Mart-Branded-Stax-Electrostatic-Earspeakers-Headphones-Untested-/171021604666?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item27d1ae973a


----------



## DefQon

Looks like one of the Micro Seiki one's.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> K-Mart Brand electrostatic headphones?
> 
> Who made these?
> 
> ...


 
   
  Same headband, cable and earpad setup as the other Stax OEM's...


----------



## anetode

Stax SRX clone? Says made in Japan, it wouldn't be the first time Stax sold as an OEM.
   
   
  Quote: 





model2220 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm new to Stax, got some Lambdas and now looking to get some Sigmas. I've had a normal bias pair offered to me for about £650, is this a fair price for Sigmas?
> 
> Thanks


 
   
  See if you can get him to knock down about a 100.


----------



## wolfetan44

Looking to buy a SR-407, but what amp to get with them?  To note: these are great with electronic music right? Because I remember testing the 207 against the HD800 with electronic music, and liked the 207 better, it just provided an amazing electro experiance and was very, very fast. I think, not sure if they were fast, I think they were, but this was from about 5 months ago.


----------



## justin w.

SRM-323S


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> SRM-323S


 
  Not the $1500 one? That STAX puts in that bundle thing?


----------



## wolfetan44

Also, any need to get a 507? I don't think I could stretch for it, but I might if its really worth the $500 more. I've heard the 407 and the 507 share drivers though?


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Not the $1500 one? That STAX puts in that bundle thing?


 
  The bundles are weird. 307 is paired with the best ss amp (323s), while the 407 is paired with the 006t. A while ago, I heard the 307 and 407 on 323s and 006t and prefer the 323s for both. I ended up with 507 + 323s though.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Interesting.. The 407 considered great? Also just to clarify, is the amp like another part of the headphone perse?


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Interesting.. The 407 considered great? Also just to clarify, is the amp like another part of the headphone perse?


 
  IMO the bundle should be reversed (407 + 323 and 307 + 006). The higher model should be with the better amp but that would kinda destroy the economic advantage of the 307. Plus I think there's ppl who prefer the 006/600ltd to the 323s.
   
  I'm not sure what you mean by part of the headphone but you can swap amp all you like (i.e. you can use the 407 with 323/006/007/727). The amp does affect the sound that comes out of the headphone of course.


----------



## AnakChan

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I haven't tested the 007t2 in my system but two friends here did extensive comparisons with the 727A in their own rigs (both 009 owners) and I believe they both converged toward similar conclusions. Anakchan is one of them so maybe he'll chip in at some point.
> 
> As for the behavior of the 009 at higher volume levels, I also noticed it and it is consistent with Tyll's review.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Been busy on my holiday and missed this.
   
  It's been quite some time since I was able to compare the 727a with the 007tA but on the two occasions that I did, I had both amps for at leas 3-4 weeks. So I'll be regurgitating from memory.
   
  WIth my SR-009, I found the 007tA to have nice depth to the imaging, especially with slower vocal jazz and classical genre. There's a nice warmth to it (therefore not too sure if I agree with the review of a lean bass - although do agree somewhat with the upper treble roll off but that's _very slight_ to my ears). My main issue with the 007tA is that it can sound laggy with slightly faster (such as my Kenny Loggins & other 80's pop - feel free to shoot me with my tastes in music).
   
  The 727a was to me, the more genre agnostic of the two. It may not have as deep of an imaging, but overall together with soundstage was still quite decent. However it's better in keeping up with faster tracks. Although I think I've read somewhere that the 727a could further add to the 009's sterile signature, I've personally never found it that way - then again, I never really found the 009 too sterile in the first place. It's signature suits me just fine.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I know someone that will be parting with one of those soon, PM me if you're interested and I'll hook you up.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Also, any need to get a 507? I don't think I could stretch for it, but I might if its really worth the $500 more. I've heard the 407 and the 507 share drivers though?


 
  No I cannot recommend the 507's they are very bright sounding to the point it is just boring and painful to these ears. The 407 are more toned overall and for the record some people say that changing the 407 pads to the 507's improves the sound greatly to the point it is not worth justifying the extra $300-400 for the 507. I still greatly prefer the vintage Lambda's and my HD800's to any of the new Lambda's.
   
  Before buying any of the stat's you should definitely go have a listen to them, well the same recommendation I can make for any other headphone, because sometimes reading what somebody else likes may not be suited for you.


----------



## DefQon

Ok, placing my bid on those Kmart stat's hoping they actually work with no channel imbalance so I can play around or mod them from my SRD-7MKii's normal bias outlet. I've just realised something is that they sort of resemble the SR-3's but just an OEM shell as Kmart never made there own "high-end" like of anything. Spritzer can you confirm if these are using the same stators as either the SR-3/3N's?


----------



## khaine1711

Wah I didn't know the US retail price difference between 407 and 507 is 500 bucks. I would definitely not get the 507 over the 407 if that is the case. Anyhow I'm not exactly bothered by the 507 treble as much as the comfort (to put thing into perspective, I do not find the hd800 treble unbearable either). Due to the different headband the driver is nearer to my ear than the 307/407; that plus the clamping force makes me uncomfortable.
   
  On other note, what Stax amp should I get with the 007 (mk2.5) - 727/007/006t?. I know the consensus is the mk1 is the best, but these are pretty hard to come by and I still want to try the 007.


----------



## wolfetan44

Do you guys suggest getting a used Lambda or a new model? 
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I was considering this for later in the year
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Need to gather the monies.
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I've listened to the 207(closest I'll probably be able to get), loved 'em.


----------



## jaycalgary

I'd only go with a previous model.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I'd only go with a previous model.


 
  +1


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Same headband, cable and earpad setup as the other Stax OEM's...


 
   
  I never imagined that there could be such a thing as a K-Mart brand electrostatic headphone. I am surprised that there were ever any K-Mart branded electronics of any kind.  If someone had shown me a home 8-track player, or a boombox with Kmart namebrand, or one of those popular "Rack Systems" from back in the day, I would have even been surprised by the existence of such products.  But K-Mart band electrostatic headphones?  I think these must have come from some parallel universe. 
   
  Spritzer, did K-Mart have any stores in Iceland? I bet not. If you're not familiar with K-Mart, they are a chain of low-end department stores.  Tacky places where you went when you needed some cheap patio furniture or a toy for your niece.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Really?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I never imagined that there could be such a thing as a K-Mart brand electrostatic headphone. I am surprised that there were ever any K-Mart branded electronics of any kind.  If someone had shown me a home 8-track player, or a boombox with Kmart namebrand, or one of those popular "Rack Systems" from back in the day, I would have even been surprised by the existence of such products.  But K-Mart band electrostatic headphones?  I think these must have come from some parallel universe.
> 
> Spritzer, did K-Mart have any stores in Iceland? I bet not. If you're not familiar with K-Mart, they are a chain of low-end department stores.  Tacky places where you went when you needed some cheap patio furniture or a toy for your niece.


 
   
  I know K-mart but we never had any here.  There might have been one in the US naval base but I'm not sure. 
   
  The drives in those are similar to the SR-3N's but not the same.


----------



## DefQon

wolfetan44 said:


> Really?




In my opinion yes. Vintage Lambdas from the original Lambda to the 404 are the only stats I'd consider looking or buying. They don't cost a lot when they pop up usually with an adaptor for the same price as a new 407/507. The newer 2/3/4/507 lines just don't sound as good as the old stuff. So you can grab a pair of vintage SR - Lambda with a SRD-7 adaptor or so when they pop up for 250-350, once you feel the urge to,upgrade skip the New Lambdas move directly onto the SR-007's. My 2c



spritzer said:


> The drives in those are similar to the SR-3N's but not the same.




Thanks.Do they have the potential to sound any good with a few mods maybe stator transplant into a Lambda or wooden cup housing?


----------



## MohawkUS

defqon said:


> In my opinion yes. Vintage Lambdas from the original Lambda to the 404 are the only stats I'd consider looking or buying. They don't cost a lot when they pop up usually with an adaptor for the same price as a new 407/507. The newer 2/3/4/507 lines just don't sound as good as the old stuff. So you can grab a pair of vintage SR - Lambda with a SRD-7 adaptor or so when they pop up for 250-350, once you feel the urge to,upgrade skip the New Lambdas move directly onto the SR-007's. My 2c




Interesting. I've been considering picking up a pair of lambdas to supplement my SR-5nb, for larger scale music. When you say the newer lambdas are worse, are you saying you prefer the sound signature of the older models are are they truly just better? I remember when the x07s came out there were a few people applauding them for ditching the lambda 'etch' and being an overall step up but they really haven't got much talk since.

Also, how much of a difference can one expect between the tube and SS amps in general? Reviews I've read make it sound as if the differences are slight. I've recently picked up a T1 and find it even tubier than my first gen Sherwood SS receiver.(these have a rep for being some of the tubbiest sounding amps out there) It goes a bit too far IMO, hence I've posted it's now back in the marketplace.


----------



## DefQon

Aw man there are some neat auctions going on Yahoo Japan, anyone willing to become my proxy?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Interesting. I've been considering picking up a pair of lambdas to supplement my SR-5nb, for larger scale music. When you say the newer lambdas are worse, are you saying you prefer the sound signature of the older models are are they truly just better? I remember when the x07s came out there were a few people applauding them for ditching the lambda 'etch' and being an overall step up but they really haven't got much talk since.
> 
> Also, how much of a difference can one expect between the tube and SS amps in general? Reviews I've read make it sound as if the differences are slight. I've recently picked up a T1 and find it even tubier than my first gen Sherwood SS receiver.(these have a rep for being some of the tubbiest sounding amps out there) It goes a bit too far IMO, hence I've posted it's now back in the marketplace.


 
   
  Just different taste pretty much I know most like the older line more so than the newer line. The only decent new model was the 407. I loathed the 507 as my ears could not stand it, it was more brighter than my HD800's (which has a curable 5-6k peak for the treble range but balances out with tube's and cable upgrades). The 507 is still capable of revealing a good amount of detail but yeah couldn't stand it. I think the LNS and the original Lambda are probably the two best out of the entire Lambda frame earspeaker line. I haven't heard the LNS so I cannot comment on how they sound but I did have a pair of fairly beat up Lambda's that I eventually sold because of its unworthy condition that didn't fit in with the rest of my gear. 
   
  See this is what I don't get, people say there is a treble etch with some of the older stuff but the newer stuff is just plain more brighter, so I'd probably say it varies with the listener but who knows. Interested in that T1 you've got F/S, 240v doable?


----------



## MohawkUS

defqon said:


> Just different taste pretty much I know most like the older line more so than the newer line. The only decent new model was the 407. I loathed the 507 as my ears could not stand it, it was more brighter than my HD800's (which has a curable 5-6k peak for the treble range but balances out with tube's and cable upgrades). The 507 is still capable of revealing a good amount of detail but yeah couldn't stand it. I think the LNS and the original Lambda are probably the two best out of the entire Lambda frame earspeaker line. I haven't heard the LNS so I cannot comment on how they sound but I did have a pair of fairly beat up Lambda's that I eventually sold because of its unworthy condition that didn't fit in with the rest of my gear.
> 
> See this is what I don't get, people say there is a treble etch with some of the older stuff but the newer stuff is just plain more brighter, so I'd probably say it varies with the listener but who knows. Interested in that T1 you've got F/S, 240v doable?




From what I've read there is a switchboard inside the casing for switching voltages, so 240V should be possible if the amp is set for it. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Hey, Mohawk, qucik question. Whats the in production model of the T1 you have for sale?


----------



## MohawkUS

wolfetan44 said:


> Hey, Mohawk, qucik question. Whats the in production model of the T1 you have for sale?




If you mean the serial number it's B6990. What does that tell you about the amp? Probably worth noting that it does say 100/117/220/240V on the back, so I am pretty sure it is switchable.


----------



## DefQon

Yeah, if you are interested in the differences between the various T1W/T1's etc spritzer might chime in with that as there might've been some changes to the circuit or so. Hey mohawk how are you currently powering your black/gold SR-5's? SRD-6/7 adaptor?


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  How much did it sell for when it was in production?


----------



## MohawkUS

wolfetan44 said:


> How much did it sell for when it was in production?




I'm not sure, I'm still new to this whole STAX thing. I'm sure there are other guys here that would know.



defqon said:


> Yeah, if you are interested in the differences between the various T1W/T1's etc spritzer might chime in with that as there might've been some changes to the circuit or so. Hey mohawk how are you currently powering your black/gold SR-5's? SRD-6/7 adaptor?




Before I got the T1 in I was using the SRD-6SB running through a vintage receiver.(Was using a Sherwood S7210A, now I've got an S6000). I had some issues with the old combo though. First of all the receivers are all stock, with 50+ yr old caps. Not a good thing. Secondly I think my SR-5 is having trouble holding it's charge. If I haven't been using it for awhile one of the channels goes soft and I have to play something loud for a few seconds to get it back to normal. That's one of the reasons I decided to move up to a dedicated amp, they're constantly applying charge unlike the SBs that only do while music is playing. With the T1 the above problems are as good as gone.

The T1 is both my first STAX amp and tube amp. I was originally going to go SS but if I had I'd always have wondered if I made the right choice. I guess I'm just a SS guy, I'm finding myself missing the SS bite and 'coldness' that many hate. I find that kind of sound piercing with dynamics but with stats it fits my tastes perfectly. I listen to a lot of ambient music like Vinterriket where the added warmth just makes things sound off.


----------



## arnaud

defqon said:


> See this is what I don't get, people say there is a treble etch with some of the older stuff but the newer stuff is just plain more brighter, so I'd probably say it varies with the listener but who knows. Interested in that T1 you've got F/S, 240v doable?




Maybe because these are two very differents issues. The upper mids/treble etch would seem to relate to resonances in the diaphragm that weren't so well damped down in some of the past models (in my limited experience the 404 for example, 007mk2 sz3 to some lesser extent). 

The issue you have with the 507 would seem more about the general voicing, not a particular technical flaw one can identify. I haven't heard the 507 but I thought I read multiple accounts that this "treble etch" is no longer there or much reduced. But indeed the overall tonality of the phone is apparently brighter than previous generation lambdas. Similarly, you might dislike the 009 vs. the 007mk2 because of its brighter tonality, but the mid higher are actually better more even handed with the 009 (even though brigther overall).

In general, the stax house sound seems to be evolving toward brighter tonality than before if you think a out the 009 vs 007 (and apparently original sr-omega but I have no first hand experience there).

Treble ech / metallic sound is an actual flaw that was quite present in the previous generation (and somehow not in the older models).

Arnaud


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Maybe because these are two very differents issues. The upper mids/treble etch would seem to relate to resonances in the diaphragm that weren't so well damped down in some of the past models (in my limited experience the 404 for example, 007mk2 sz3 to some lesser extent).





> Could the resonance issues be with the diaphragm not having any backing foam inside the housing or is it just a technical flaw with the way the stator is positioned in regards to distance to the back insides of the housing itself? Wouldn't too much dampening cloud up the sound a little more, reducing imaging capability and soundstaging as well as giving the impression to the user that the treble, mids, lows and highs are all further distanced to the ears?





> The issue you have with the 507 would seem more about the general voicing, not a particular technical flaw one can identify. I haven't heard the 507 but I thought I read multiple accounts that this "treble etch" is no longer there or much reduced. But indeed the overall tonality of the phone is apparently brighter than previous generation lambdas. Similarly, you might dislike the 009 vs. the 007mk2 because of its brighter tonality, but the mid higher are actually better more even handed with the 009 (even though brigther overall).





> I would agree the overall tonality of the 507 is brighter, to the point where I would just put the headphones down and give my ears a rest. While I haven't heard the 009 as of yet I do feel that I wouldn't exactly dislike it due to it's lean towards the brighter side but I have read those that own both the HD800's and 009 voice that both share a similar bright representation where the HD800's brightness is down to its 5-6k treble peaks (as of in models < S/N 20000) and the 009 just has an overall brighter signature to give the sense of clarity to the user. I have listened to the 007 Mk1's and I found them to be on the slightly warmer side though still very well rendered and clear with lots of detail to offer.





> In general, the stax house sound seems to be evolving toward brighter tonality than before if you think a out the 009 vs 007 (and apparently original sr-omega but I have no first hand experience there).





> I would agree with that except the Mk1's and some of the portable stat's are the only ones I have heard to be not as bright as the other models. I have the SR-Omega's and yes they also sound similar to the HD800's I have with the brighter tonality/signature and the same airy sound representation but just more revealing with detail.





> Treble ech / metallic sound is an actual flaw that was quite present in the previous generation (and somehow not in the older models).
> 
> Arnaud





> Which previous generation are you referring this to? The original old line of Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Nova Signature, Sigma's? Or the line when Stax started using numerics for there model's 202,303, 404/LTD etc?


 
   
Above...


----------



## DefQon

Anyone with a rinkya account to help me win some Stax?


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *DefQon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Anyone with a rinkya account to help me win some Stax?


 
   
  There are plenty of proxy buying services, just pick one and go for it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> There are plenty of proxy buying services, just pick one and go for it.


 
  I tried jauce which requires me to deposit the amount I will be bidding in yens + expensive fees from my paypal to jauce account which I don't want to do. Rinkya which was kindly recommended to me by Radio_Head due to it commonly used won't accept my Master Card details saying it is denied and paypal can't be used to verify who I am as I'm not an American buyer. Ghey.


----------



## edstrelow

defqon said:


> Above...Could the resonance issues be with the diaphragm not having any backing foam inside the housing or is it just a technical flaw with the way the stator is positioned in regards to distance to the back insides of the housing itself? Wouldn't too much dampening cloud up the sound a little more, reducing imaging capability and soundstaging as well as giving the impression to the user that the treble, mids, lows and highs are all further distanced to the ears?


re: damping.

A few years ago the backing foam in my Lambda LNS wore out and I got a replacement from Yamas. It made the LNS sound terrible. The foam was definitely much thicker than what had been in them before, although admittedly the old foam was disintegrating. I ended up removing the new foam and decided I preferred the sound that way. I also removed the foam backing, (again not the front foam which faces the ear) from the 404 and again decided I preferred the sound that way. Mostly the phones sound more open, with a wider soundstage. Certainly they don't sound more etched. I don't see any back foam on my 007's. Do the 009's and newer Lambdas use foam backing?

I recognize the etch issue with the Lambdas, but I think it applies to most stats. I am less certain now the the problem is in the transducers. Recently after I changed my DAC connectors from electrical to optical (a TOL Wireworld ) it seemed that most of the etch disappeared. So I wonder if much of the etch is a form of digital distortion that the stats are very good at showing.


----------



## MDR30

Now I've had three unfortunate experiences with the SR-5 Gold, and I'm not sure why I keep going. Propably beacause they sound so good to my ears. One case of drivers lacking bass and sounding pinched, two of channel imbalance.
   
  Is there anyone out there who had  a similar experience and have one functional driver to sell?
   
  PM me, and spread some Stax joy.


----------



## wink

Quote: 





> QuoteefQuon
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  How about kuboten?


----------



## DefQon

My findings with my LP when I remove the foam and the backing cloth was that maybe there was a hint of slightly more clarity but after adjusting my gear and swapping around I could not detect any difference with the backing on or off. It might've been specific to the LP only.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> The T1 is both my first STAX amp and tube amp. I was originally going to go SS but if I had I'd always have wondered if I made the right choice. I guess I'm just a SS guy, I'm finding myself missing the SS bite and 'coldness' that many hate. I find that kind of sound piercing with dynamics but with stats it fits my tastes perfectly. I listen to a lot of ambient music like Vinterriket where the added warmth just makes things sound off.


 
   
  I had the SRM-1 / Mk II  and the SRM-T1; I have SR-007 MK I's, Lambda Signatures, and Koss ESP-950's with a Stax plug.
   
  I sold the SMR-1 / Mk II  and kept the SRM-T1.  They are very close in sound, but I think the SRM-T1 is just a little more refined in the mids and treble.  They both have about the same bass quality.
   
  The SRM-T1  is a well regarded amplifier.  For the price, I don't think you can do better.
   
  The other, newer,  top-of-the-line Stax amps are only marginally better- the sound is very similar to the SRM-T1.  If you want to upgrade I think the Blue Hawaii would be the way to go, it represents a noticeable step up, but it costs big bucks. If you can't afford one, it's probably a good bet to stick with the SRM-T1.
   
  Remember that in high-end audio the last 10% increase in sound quality costs 85% of the money spent.


----------



## rolandmsv

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> To note: these are great with electronic music right?


 
  Whoa?! Are you serious? Yes, they might be better then HD800. But stat's for electronic? I keeping modded Fostex T50 and random dynamic can's for that stuff. If you gonna listen only electronic(especially bass heavy) I don't see any reason to buy Stax.


----------



## DefQon

I find stats fine for electronic. Not better than my HD800's for fast complex electronic music, trance or so.


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *DefQon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I find stats fine for electronic. Not better than my HD800's for fast complex electronic music, trance or so.


 
   
  Well-amped O2's are killer for electronic music.
   
  Lambda's?, not so much.


----------



## DefQon

$10 bucks say my LP is more dynamic and capable of hitting lower notes for electronic music then your O2.


----------



## shipsupt

Indeed. 
   
  And the 4070's when I want to get some boom boom in the club room impact going.
   
   
  Quote:


deadlylover said:


> Well-amped O2's are killer for electronic music.


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *DefQon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> $10 bucks say my LP is more dynamic and capable of hitting lower notes for electronic music then your O2.


 
   
  They slam like a wet noodle though, and they can't quite handle being played at ~100db without sounding too bright.
   
  An O2 (not a 'broken' one like the sz3's =P) comes alive and begs for more when you start to push it to ~100db, especially with a KGSSHV or above.


----------



## DefQon

Who listens to there music at 100db's? But yeah it was sarcasim intended I have heard the original MK1's which I admit is what got me hooked onto the Stax sound, don't remember it being one with rendering lots of bass but I found to be quite balanced with a lean on the warmish side of sound. My LP's are no slouch which I enjoy with electronic music. If I wanted to listen to some heavy bass oriented music, my modded FA-011's take the cake for that which gives my rev.1's arse a run for it's money.


----------



## wink

QuoteefQon 





> Who listens to there music at 100db's?


 
  Someone who's half deaf?
   
   
  What's that, you say.....???


----------



## MohawkUS

The SR-5s are great with electronica, the bass on these has more heft than any dynamic I've tried(save the Ultrasone Pro2900). Honestly I don't like dynamics at all for Electronica and Metal. They simply can't keep up, they sound strained with the fastest music.

Milosv, The Blue Hawaii looks like a great amp but it's out of my reach by far. My issues with the T1 are only with how it presents the music(it's sound sig.) The quality of sound it puts out is beyond what I expected. The weakest link in the chain right now is the music I listen to. A lot of it was mastered quite badly.

As for the Lambdas, we've been talking a lot about the treble but how is the bass? The one thing I love about the goldies is that the bass is really tight and dry. This lets me focus in on the bass lines in my music(which is helpful as I'm trying to learn how to play). I've heard some of the lambs are tad boomy, is the new series better or worse in this regard?


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





rolandmsv said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Its not bass heavy electronic. Its psychedelic electronic/rock. Stuff like Animal Collective. So should I not get a Lambda? What should I get!


----------



## DefQon

Going to give Animal Collective a listen tomorrow..


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> As for the Lambdas, we've been talking a lot about the treble but how is the bass?


 
  Very good if you're not a bass head.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Going to give Animal Collective a listen tomorrow..


 
  Don't listen to My Girls


----------



## shipsupt

Inspired, I threw on some Animal Collective (And yes, I even listened to My Girls) with some LNS through the SRM-717.  *Brilliant.  *Loving the detail, extension, speed, and sound stage.
   
  I sometimes wonder why the stereotype is to use cans with a bass emphasis with music that's typically recorded with a bass emphasis. Hell, why not crank up the EQ too!?  
   
  There is so much more going on in good electronic music, I don't want to miss it by having the bass covering it all up.
   
   
  I do sometimes feel like certain electronic music falls short on headphones because it can't give me that physical impact that speakers can.  This is especially true for artist I've seen live, where the venue system packs a punch.  Perhaps it's this feel that some are seeking when they keep putting enhancements in the chain.
   
  And just to prove I'm not Mr. Anti-Bass-Head I'm going to go and grab my D7000's and listen to some more Animal Collective if I can get these STAX off my head...


----------



## K_19

Anyone know which way the "arm" of the spring ring for the 007's pads are supposed to be facing? I may be imagining things here but positioning of this seems to affect the sound signature to a small degree... As well as the firmness of the pads and such.

I have the metal arm of the ring pointing towards roughly 8 o'clock position for the left side pads (or 4 o'clock for the right side pads). Which way is this supposed to be facing stock, and more importantly, would this matter at all you'd think sound and comfort wise?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Thanks.Do they have the potential to sound any good with a few mods maybe stator transplant into a Lambda or wooden cup housing?


 
   
  They are not compatible with normal Stax bias supplies so using these will always be difficult. 
   
  Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Anyone know which way the "arm" of the spring ring for the 007's pads are supposed to be facing? I may be imagining things here but positioning of this seems to affect the sound signature to a small degree... As well as the firmness of the pads and such.
> 
> I have the metal arm of the ring pointing towards roughly 8 o'clock position for the left side pads (or 4 o'clock for the right side pads). Which way is this supposed to be facing stock, and more importantly, would this matter at all you'd think sound and comfort wise?


 
   
  It's supposed to face towards the seam so forward and a bit upwards.  The position matters as the spring has to support the back of the earpads properly.


----------



## rolandmsv

I'm not saying that stat's can't deliver bass for electronics. They can! But getting 407's for electronic only might not be great idea. I love electronic as well as metal, especially psychodelic one. But I should admit, that 407's handle death-metal better than bass-heavy electronic music.
  Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Its psychedelic electronic/rock.


 
   
   
  If it's some kind of rock, 407's will be fine. I though you mean some D'n'B/dubstep when mentioned electronic, sorry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  But I still prefer my GMP 8.300D to 407's for psybient(any Ultimae Records album).


----------



## K_19

So I've had it facing the opposite direction all along it seems 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Will give that position a try. Thanks as always Spritzer.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Anyone know which way the "arm" of the spring ring for the 007's pads are supposed to be facing? I may be imagining things here but positioning of this seems to affect the sound signature to a small degree... As well as the firmness of the pads and such.
> 
> I have the metal arm of the ring pointing towards roughly 8 o'clock position for the left side pads (or 4 o'clock for the right side pads). Which way is this supposed to be facing stock, and more importantly, would this matter at all you'd think sound and comfort wise?


 
  You are not imaging things at all, the SR007s are very finicky to fit properly especially if you have a smaller head.
  The 009 and Omega are a lot better and also better at disappearing on your head (although if you move it you feel the weight of the 009) you are always aware about the 007s being on your head.
  So really not a fan of this, others might have different head shapes and different opinions.
   
  So, getting a perfect seal is the most important thing that is affected by the pads.
  But even then it does matter where you position it, the height must be perfect as well and if you have a headpad that is even a bit stretched out it will not stay where it should be and just slip down a little. At least I've found it to be best at that position even though the instruments are positioned a bit higher there is less veil on the sound.
  I don't know if there is a good cheap fix for that other than ordering a new headpad and I don't know how long that can last.


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Inspired, I threw on some Animal Collective (And yes, I even listened to My Girls) with some LNS through the SRM-717.  *Brilliant.  *Loving the detail, extension, speed, and sound stage.
> 
> I sometimes wonder why the stereotype is to use cans with a bass emphasis with music that's typically recorded with a bass emphasis. Hell, why not crank up the EQ too!?
> 
> ...


 
  Sweet!! Recommend me getting the LNS then? Also, I feel Animal Collective isn't like the stereotypical electronic. Anyways, if anyone could put on Youth Lagoon on their Stax, I would really appreciate that, esp. you, ship.


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> Sweet!! Recommend me getting the LNS then? Also, I feel Animal Collective isn't like the stereotypical electronic. Anyways, if anyone could put on Youth Lagoon on their Stax, I would really appreciate that, esp. you, ship.


 
  Any particular song? I've just "acquired" their two album for discovering new music purpose.
   
  I'm always curious about electronic music, but never got into them since I don't know where to start 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. The only thing electronic in my collection is Carte Blanche by Veracocha and Thirty by Hiroyuki Oda. My main stuff is metal and baroque. I've found that only Stax can really keep up to the blazing fast drum note of death metal, or the guitar of thrash metal. Like someone previously said, the 507 handles death metal splendidly.
   
  Anyway last week I saw a LNS + amp going for 300ish GBP and didn't grab it since I've read people preferring the new lamdba. Kinda regreting it now seeing many people root for the older lambda


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  WHERE IS THE LNS+AMP!? Anyways, any song is fine


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> WHERE IS THE LNS+AMP!? Anyways, any song is fine


 
  Gone for a week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  I'm going through based on last.fm most played. Strangely the second album recording quality is worse than the first . My favorite atm is the Daydream track from the first album - kinda dreamy. The 507 is nice in a way that the sound is almost ethereal - like music materializing out of thin air; that and accurate positioning/imaging. I really love Chopin's mazurkas with the 507; feels like I'm sitting next to the pianist (Sir Rubinstein btw). The daydream track kind of demonstrates this quality. If it's recorded better, I'm sure it would be a blissful experience.
   
  Anyway back to topic, I do feel the 2nd album (year of hibernation), while still sounds nice with the 507, is not ideal. The "indie" recording quality produces lots of glares. It's not unbearable like with dynamic cans, but still feels a bit unpleasant. I'm sure my head (ears) would explode if I try this album with my Dt990 or Grado 325is


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 





. Hmm, good hopes, anyways. Kbps for both my Youth Lagoon albums are 2500 kbps. So it won't be that bad. 
  Note: If anyone sees a vintage Stax for sale, anywhere, PLEASE! PM me.


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





wolfetan44 said:


> . Hmm, good hopes, anyways. Kbps for both my Youth Lagoon albums are 2500 kbps. So it won't be that bad.
> Note: If anyone sees a vintage Stax for sale, anywhere, PLEASE! PM me.


 
  Mine is flac - hence the acquired in quotation mark 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  The only thing I use for listening that isn't flac/dsd is a rare recording of Bach's St Matthews Passion that I can't put my hands on a proper CD yet. I know the pain though. Many good indie stuff are plagued by bad recording quality. You could sort of remedy this by getting a warm dac; or EQ the treble down by 3db. Still a pity though, can't really EQ the grain/glare.
   
  Old lambdas are quite inflated these days. Your best bet would be lurking ebay/head-fi. I've seen new lambda (407 + 323s) went for as low as $800, while soem ppl list old lambda + energizer for 1-1.5k


----------



## wolfetan44

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That lambda price is ridiculous. Should be A LOT lower. $500-$600.


----------



## autoteleology

I got a 12V / 2A / 10,000mAh external battery in the hopes of using my 303 on the go, but it turns out the battery I bought has limitations - namely, it refuses to give a charge to anything on the other end of the DC wire that doesn't also have a battery.

 Does anyone know of an external battery confirmed to work with devices such as an amplifier?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They are not compatible with normal Stax bias supplies so using these will always be difficult.


 
  Darn, any method of powering them then? Also what would happen if I plugged them into the normal bias output on my SRD-7MKII's? Damage the transformer in the energizer or burn/short out the stators?


----------



## autoteleology

I think I blew my Stax amplifier somehow. I just turned on my amp today and listened to some music and it sounds absolutely horrible.


----------



## AnakChan

tus-chan said:


> I think I blew my Stax amplifier somehow. I just turned on my amp today and listened to some music and it sounds absolutely horrible.


Arnaud has done that before with static just by running his fingers through his hair before touching his 727A. No in general no grounding/earth in wall sockets in Tokyo at least (which I'm not even certain if that will help if it did).


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I got a 12V / 2A / 10,000mAh external battery in the hopes of using my 303 on the go, but it turns out the battery I bought has limitations - namely, it refuses to give a charge to anything on the other end of the DC wire that doesn't also have a battery.
> 
> Does anyone know of an external battery confirmed to work with devices such as an amplifier?


 
  I'm actually gonna be listing something in the FS threads that you'd probably be interested in tomorrow.


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> [The "arm" of the spring ring for the 007's pads is] supposed to face towards the seam so forward and a bit upwards.  The position matters as the spring has to support the back of the earpads properly.


 
  I've always wondered about that. How do you adjust the spring position? Do you have to take the pads off completely? I ask because getting the pads back on again seems to be an extremey fiddly task.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Darn, any method of powering them then? Also what would happen if I plugged them into the normal bias output on my SRD-7MKII's? Damage the transformer in the energizer or burn/short out the stators?


 
   
  They just won't charge up.  This is after you have replaced the cable naturally as the pinout isn't compatible with Stax and no way to simply rewire them with the stock cable. 
   
  Quote: 





theattorney said:


> I've always wondered about that. How do you adjust the spring position? Do you have to take the pads off completely? I ask because getting the pads back on again seems to be an extremey fiddly task.


 
   
  I normally do it when installing the earpads but it can be done with the phones assemble.  They can rotate on the central mount so just hold either the spring or the earpads in place and rotate the other.  Be warned though that the springs have a rough unfinished end right next to the leather so they will be easier to turn in one direction than the other.


----------



## scott16

They seem to be the same as this one (Numark ES-701). 
  It says they are Electret (no Bias Voltage).
   
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Numark-Electret-Electrostatic-Headphones-ES-701-Adaptor-/271134508537?nma=true&si=Q36kvvCaEMeaagJxgAhNOe9CRiM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
   
   
   
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> K-Mart Brand electrostatic headphones?
> 
> Who made these?
> 
> ...


----------



## SquireC

Referring to the recent posts about the 507's being bright - I don't agree. I have 507's and Lambda LNS and they are different - the LNS have a 'warmer' balance while the 507's can deliver a bit more 'detail' and slam. But if you partner 507's with a CD player (or digital signal) that is 'edgy' in the treble, out through a 'bright' solid state amp, connected together with 'bright' sounding interconnects and the Stax amps ( SRM 1, etc.) can only go so far in taming that system 'brightness'.
   
  The point I'm making, I hope, is that you should not assume any particular Stax headphone is right or wrong for you until you've tried it in your own system. I know that's difficult in many cases, but when you're spending fair amounts of money, you need to get it right.
   
  A friend of mine tried 007's  through his system and they sounded pretty crap. We all know they are not, but in his warm sounding solid state system with an SRM1, they did. Poor dynamics, ploddy bass. Does that make the 007's a poor choice? For him- yes.


----------



## DefQon

I'd say those SRM-1 MKII's are hardly doing any justice for those O2's your friend has.


----------



## autoteleology

n3rdling said:


> I'm actually gonna be listing something in the FS threads that you'd probably be interested in tomorrow.


 
   
  Color me interested... but if it's just a battery, I doubt I will be able to use it now that my amp is blown.


----------



## n3rdling

It's a SRD-P portable adapter.  Also put up two sets of HE60 + HEV70.


----------



## autoteleology

Two questions:
   

 Is it a driver unit or an energizer? I seem to be finding conflicting reports between whether it will operate directly from a DAC or if it needs another amplifier behind it to function.
 Is the output sound reasonably good for the going cost for it (seems to be about ~$200)? You don't seem to like it that much, judging from this post by you in 2010;



> *n3rdling* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> > *DaveBSC* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


----------



## n3rdling

They're transformers.  I'm not crazy about transformers vs direct drive amps, but they have their places: 1. for those on a budget 2. portable use.  I wouldn't expect any portable to sound amazing due to the drive requirements and tiny market.


----------



## autoteleology

I'm still interested, and of course it's not going to be the end all be all because it's essentially a variation of double-amping, but is it competitive at its price range?


----------



## n3rdling

It sounds like the SRD transformers.  For somebody that is working within a budget I think it's a good option since there aren't many to begin with in that price range.  For somebody that wants something portable it's about the only option unless you want to carry a backpack with an amp and large battery...but then that's a different price range and a hassle.  General consensus on transformers vs amps is that transformers give up some detail and gain some impact.


----------



## n3rdling

I think KG might have a backpack system actually now that I think about it.


----------



## DefQon

The HE60 look interesting shame one by itself goes about the pric of an O2. Btw theres another SRD-P for sale and how the heck did you blow your amp?


----------



## autoteleology

> how the heck did you blow your amp?


 
   


Spoiler: Current draft of email to Anker



[size=small]I received the [/size][size=small]Anker® Astro3 10000mAh External Backup Battery Pack on April 10th, 2013. I purchased this product for the purposes of using an electrostatic amplifier rated at 12V 4W (by my estimates, approximately 300-400mA) DC input power portably as opposed to keeping it powered in a stationary setting via a wall-wart. This amplifier is not battery-operated and relies on an outside power supply to operate.[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] Unfortunately, it seems as though your product has irreversibly damaged my amplifier in question. This damage occurred at some point on April 12, 2013 in the process of acquiring a properly fitting DC cable at my local Radio Shack using their Adaptacable standard cable with replaceable DC tips. Upon finding tips suitable for both products (specifically, a tip matching the "C" tip included with your product for your product, and an "N" tip for my amplifier), the battery was plugged into an outlet using the wall wart included with your product inserted into the "input" of your product, the "C" tip was inserted into the "output" of your product, and the "N" tip was inserted into my amplifier. 

The battery and amplifier were then turned on and immediately began to noticeably malfunction, with the LED for the "12V" selector on the battery repeatedly flashing on and off, and the amplifier's "on" LED not activating despite the power switch being flipped to the "on" position. Within a few moments, my amplifier began to smell of smoke, upon which both devices were disconnected and the amplifier inspected by the manager of the Radio Shack by disassembling the case and inspecting the inside circuitry of the amplifier. Upon inspection, no visible damage was present, despite the now very noticeable odor of smoke. The amplifier was then tested to visibly power on properly with the actual wall wart used with the amplifier, although the output sound was not tested. A variation of other tip selections were then tested, with a similar result on the battery end each time but without such an event reoccurring with the amplifier.

Your customer service department was then contacted, the time being at this point approximately 4:40 PST. The customer service rep, to his credit, was very helpful in his effort to find a solution to my problem, and gave me some details pertaining to it; your product is apparently not designed to power devices that are not battery-operated, despite the fact that this detail is not mentioned explicitly or otherwise anywhere in the manual or  online product documentation, or product packaging to my knowledge. Your customer service representative then gave me instructions as to how to bypass a fail-safe in the battery that prevents the battery from apparently providing power to any product that is not battery-operated, that consisted of drawing approximately 80mA from one of the two USB ports on the battery and then attempting to draw power at the same time from the DC output on the battery. These instructions were followed shortly afterwards, uneventfully and to no avail.

I then left the Radio Shack without purchasing a product and proceeded back to my home. Upon arriving, I reconnected my amplifier to my home audio system in the fashion it was connected before it was disassembled prior to taking the unit to the Radio Shack, and attempted to play media through the amplifier to a pair of "ear-speakers", only to find that the output audio was massively distorted to the point of being unlistenable. Even after reconnecting my gear to itself in a variety if different ways, the end result was the same; at the time of writing, the amplifier is no longer functional in any way except for the LED indicating power status; however, the battery itself is still perfectly functional.[/size]


----------



## DefQon

Interesting and what amp is this that's damaged? SRD-P or ? 
   
  It may be possible that it could've blown something on the circuit board, maybe try opening it up carefully to confirm any shorts or burnt spots?


----------



## autoteleology

It's an SRM-Xh. There wasn't any visible damage anywhere when the device was opened up, but I guess I could look inside again.


----------



## DefQon

Unlucky.


----------



## AndrewG

I'm considering Stax 007 or 009. I am wondering which one has better speed, impact and musicality? There is nowhere to try them out. Is Stax as good as they say?


----------



## DefQon

Once you go Stax there is no turning back (unless you like variety and get the best transducer based headphones out there).


----------



## Maxvla

Been to Stax land, didn't get a T-Shirt, and won't be returning any time soon.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Been to Stax land, didn't get a T-Shirt, and won't be returning any time soon.


 
   
  You're actively following the Stax thread though, maybe it's not a lost cause


----------



## gilency

Really, if not interested, why would you want to post or follow this thread? 
  I can tell you I personally don't follow the Beats threads, or feel the need to post there


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Really, if not interested, why would you want to post or follow this thread?
> I can tell you I personally don't follow the Beats threads, or feel the need to post there


 
  His other side is telling him to come bach to stick to stax 
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> You're actively following the Stax thread though, maybe it's not a lost cause


 
  Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Been to Stax land, didn't get a T-Shirt, and won't be returning any time soon.


 
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Once you go Stax there is no turning back (unless you like variety and get the best transducer based headphones out there).


 
  3 cliche lines in a row.


----------



## Maxvla

arnaud said:


> You're actively following the Stax thread though, maybe it's not a lost cause






gilency said:


> Really, if not interested, why would you want to post or follow this thread?
> I can tell you I personally don't follow the Beats threads, or feel the need to post there




Actually I saw the little bit of his post in the quote part of my subscription page. I don't normally follow this that closely. Since it is mostly high end I still keep tabs here and there, but not for purchasing interest.



mrviolin said:


> 3 cliche lines in a row.


----------



## NamelessPFG

It's not that simple of a question, though...if the SR-Lambda, SR-202, and SR-Gamma all taught me anything, it's that not all Stax models sound the same. Far from it, really! (The Normal bias SR-Lambda and SR-202 have opposing sound signatures, for starters.)
   
  Thus, the question isn't so much "is Stax for me?" as "is this particular Stax model for me?"
   
  And while we're at it, I'd emphasize not just looking at the SR-007 and SR-009 and forgetting that other Stax products exist, as most people here tend to do. There are some worthy Lambda variants floating around, and if you want more of an "earspeaker" sort of presentation, the Sigma series might just be your cup of tea, if you can get over the inflated prices they've been going for lately. (Damn flippers...)


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I normally do it when installing the earpads but it can be done with the phones assemble.  They can rotate on the central mount so just hold either the spring or the earpads in place and rotate the other.  Be warned though that the springs have a rough unfinished end right next to the leather so they will be easier to turn in one direction than the other.


 
   
  That worked a treat. Thanks spritzer.
   
  Talking of rotating pads, I got fed up with my 007's rotating out of step in between uses - it's as if the night pixies would come out to play and leave them in a mess. The design should have had a locking mechanism. So I made my own temporary lock with a tiny square of paper-based brown masking tape, applied just behind the curvy Y bit where the cable enters the phone. I wasn't expecting this to last more than a few seconds, yet 2 weeks later the phones are still locked in their perfect position - bliss.


----------



## DefQon

If anyone has a SRD-4 electret adaptor they want to part for fairly cheap, please pm me.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





maxvla said:


> Been to Stax land, didn't get a T-Shirt, and won't be returning any time soon.


 
   
  Yeah, I don't think much of their T-Shirts either.


----------



## DefQon

Well just won a SRD-Xh amp/energizer for $125 on Audiogon, waiting for shipping info from the seller, any of you guys have any recommended mods I can do to this puppy once I receive it? (My memory is vague but I remember Birgir posting pics of his modded xh with Lemo balanced output).


----------



## shipsupt

maxvla said:


> Been to Stax land, didn't get a T-Shirt, and won't be returning any time soon.




Great to know Max. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





theattorney said:


> That worked a treat. Thanks spritzer.
> 
> Talking of rotating pads, I got fed up with my 007's rotating out of step in between uses - it's as if the night pixies would come out to play and leave them in a mess. The design should have had a locking mechanism. So I made my own temporary lock with a tiny square of paper-based brown masking tape, applied just behind the curvy Y bit where the cable enters the phone. I wasn't expecting this to last more than a few seconds, yet 2 weeks later the phones are still locked in their perfect position - bliss.


 
   
  That is an issue with the design but it's never been a problem for me.  Just use both hands to take off the phones and place them on a stand.  They as the same way when you use them the next time. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Well just won a SRD-Xh amp/energizer for $125 on Audiogon, waiting for shipping info from the seller, any of you guys have any recommended mods I can do to this puppy once I receive it? (My memory is vague but I remember Birgir posting pics of his modded xh with Lemo balanced output).


 
   
  No such thing as a SRD-Xh, there is a SRD-X and a SRM-Xh.  The latter has at least 3 versions and the last one is quite good and can be modified extensively.  Adding a balance input is pretty trivial and yeah, I've done that.  The other two versions are based on the original SRM-X and are quite poor.  Mosfet output devices and no power at all.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No such thing as a SRD-Xh, there is a SRD-X and a SRM-Xh.  The latter has at least 3 versions and the last one is quite good and can be modified extensively.  Adding a balance input is pretty trivial and yeah, I've done that.  The other two versions are based on the original SRM-X and are quite poor.  Mosfet output devices and no power at all.


 
  Sorry SRM-Xh. Any recommended mods? Actually probably just wait till I receive it and open it up and post some pictures here.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





andrewg said:


> I'm considering Stax 007 or 009. I am wondering which one has better speed, impact and musicality? There is nowhere to try them out. Is Stax as good as they say?


 
  Completely different character but technically they are both very good with good impact (for a stat) and masses of detail.
   
  So if you do not have an opportunity it might not be a bad idea to try SR007 and if you don't like it you can always upgrade to the SR009.
   
  And of course very much dependent on the source and amp as matching well although in my experience no matter what they always keep some of their own character.
  So if a completely neutral headphone means having no character I never heard one and probably never will as it simply doesn't exist.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Sorry SRM-Xh. Any recommended mods? Actually probably just wait till I receive it and open it up and post some pictures here.


 
   
  Really depends on the version and parts used.  Many of these were built right on the limit so no mods possible. 
   
  I would replace the caps though.


----------



## autoteleology

> Well just won a SRD-Xh amp/energizer for $125 on Audiogon


 
   
  Well, damn, I wish I had known about this.


----------



## DefQon

When I receive it and find out it is not the candidate for spritzers mods I might consider selling it to you for the price I paid for plus shipping since it looks like you are need of an amp.


----------



## MrViolin

http://www.head-fi.org/t/659857/stax-sr-007-omega-ii-mk1-electrostatic-earspeakers-toronto-canada
  ohoho $1800 for this then $1k for his 717.
   
  Always been confused about the mk1 and mk2. Do both come in silver? I've only seen silver O2's on head-fi... well maybe a black one once, but it's been too long to remember. If I remember correctly, the MKI had 2 models and the MKII had 2 models. 
   
  And then there's.... http://www.head-fi.org/t/659881/liquid-lightning-mkii-audition-program


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





mrviolin said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/659857/stax-sr-007-omega-ii-mk1-electrostatic-earspeakers-toronto-canada
> ohoho $1800 for this then $1k for his 717.
> 
> Always been confused about the mk1 and mk2. Do both come in silver? I've only seen silver O2's on head-fi... well maybe a black one once, but it's been too long to remember. If I remember correctly, the MKI had 2 models and the MKII had 2 models.
> ...


 
   
  I got the 009 bug recently... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I knew I shouldn't have tried it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Didn't want to let go of them but in order tobe able to afford the 009 I'll need to let these wonderful headphones go.... I'm even trying to think of a way to budget so that I'd be able to keep these, so we'll see what happens...
   
  As for the models I believe the MK1's came in 1) Champaign (not pure silver colour, which you may have mistaken) with brown pads or 2) All black version and MKII's in 1) All Black version and 2) Silver version with Black pads.


----------



## DefQon

MK1's are silver, champagne sort of colour, MK2's are black. MK1's are superior to to the other two versions of the MK2's. Spritzer can confirm further.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I got the 009 bug recently...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## gilency

Mk1's are favored by most (not everybody) over the Mk2's.
  Both are relatively dark, (a characteristic that improves with better amplifiers), but paradoxically very clear and extremely enjoyable.
  The Mk1's have a more linear frequency response' the Mk2's have a mild bump in the midbass that many don't like.
  The Mk2's cord connection with the earspeaker is better and less prone to damage, although the Mk1's are durable as long as you are careful not pulling on the cords.
  I sold my Mk1's which I really liked, in order to buy the 009's, which I really, really like 
  If you can find an Mk1 in excellent shape from a reputable member, 1800.00 is a very good price.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Me too. And I haven't even tried them yet!
    
  Buh-bye HD800's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (sniff)
   
   
  Coming soon:
   


Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!



 
  Hello my baby, hello my honey, hello my ragtime gal...
   

   
  Send me a kiss by wire... baby, my heart's on fire!


   

   
  I suppose we're gonna see _what my system is made of..._


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Me too. And I haven't even tried them yet!
> 
> Buh-bye HD800's
> 
> ...


 
  Hey congrats! You'll love them. As amazing as the HD800s are, these babies will fill that void and then some!


----------



## autoteleology

> When I receive it and find out it is not the candidate for spritzers mods I might consider selling it to you for the price I paid for plus shipping since it looks like you are need of an amp.


 
   
  If that set of circumstances occurs, I would definitely appreciate it if you threw me that bone.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Mk1's are favored by most (not everybody) over the Mk2's.
> Both are relatively dark, (a characteristic that improves with better amplifiers), but paradoxically very clear and extremely enjoyable.
> The Mk1's have a more linear frequency response' the Mk2's have a mild bump in the midbass that many don't like.
> The Mk2's cord connection with the earspeaker is better and less prone to damage, although the Mk1's are durable as long as you are careful not pulling on the cords.
> ...


 
  O i c... thanks gilency. I wonder what stax man has to say 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





defqon said:


> MK1's are silver, champagne sort of colour, MK2's are black. MK1's are superior to to the other two versions of the MK2's. Spritzer can confirm further.


 
  Quote: 





k_19 said:


> I got the 009 bug recently...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks guys  
  Best of luck with your sale k_19, it'll probably be gone pretty soon. If you don't want them sold, best of lucky with finding a way to keep them and get the 009's


----------



## struggles

With the descriptions of the 007 versions mentioned, I do not see much talk about which dust cloth is being used with them? A member here posted about this which led me to take a look at mine, there is quite a difference when comparing the two. I am currently using the thinner cloth with the mk2 pad, anyone else feel this should be noted?


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> As for the models I believe the MK1's came in 1) Champaign (not pure silver colour, which you may have mistaken) with brown pads or 2) All black version and MKII's in 1) All Black version and 2) Silver version with Black pads.


 
   
  The SR-007BL, which is the black version of the Mk1, is not entirely black: it has the metal parts in champaign color and only the leather parts in black (headband, pads) and a black cable.


----------



## thinker

First impression of Malvalve Head amp three is that the unit has excellent craftmanship


----------



## KingStyles

^ Thats different.


----------



## schorsch

It look s gorgeous,
   
  Mr. Mallach seem s to be a very serious person in case of amps.....
   
  Nice to talk to hom. Haven't tried the amp but I will)
   
  Give us some impressions.....

  
  Regards Georg


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





schorsch said:


> It look s gorgeous,
> 
> Mr. Mallach seem s to be a very serious person in case of amps.....
> 
> ...


 
  In coming days i will say something, this amp is silky silky and silky especially in the midrange.Pure perfection with HD-800 on 4 pin connection, the female vocals with this amp are mind-boggling (10 tubes).Listened today also with Omega mk1 when i took the phones off i thought i was listening with HD-800, this amp injects a lot of air to Omegas.The remote control feature is also nice and you have to press only on one button to switch between different phones .At this moment i am very excited about this amp.


----------



## K_19

So after thinking it over carefully for the past day or so... I've decided to hold on to the 007/717's for the time being... one of the reasons being that I really do want to compare it and the 009's side by side before I decide to really let go of it.  They're also very rare now so I don't want to make the mistake of letting them go too early since I know if I change my mind for any reason, it may become too difficult to find again (especially the 717's)... and perhaps there can be room for both headphones in the collection in the end as they're quite different sounding (whether I can afford to keep both is another story... we'll see what happens).
   
  I'll have to let go of nearly all my other gear (except for ESW10JPN, they have a certain special sound quality to them and are no longer in production to boot) and go on a strictly ramen-only diet for the next few months so that I can keep these and also pay for the 009's though... well, ok maybe not the ramen diet part 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, but still, I'll have to budget very, very tightly for the next few months in order to make this work... but that's the sacrifice I've decided to make in order to keep the 007's for now. I'll also have to skip over the 727's for now and try the 009 with my current 717 first and see how that sounds.  I haven't seen too many reviews on how the 009/717 pair sounds, so very curious to hear how they sound paired up.


----------



## Oceanographic

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/13640147


----------



## ri_toast

Quote: 





oceanographic said:


> http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/13640147


 
  for a first post that was pretty nice, my Japanese is nil but could someone post if this is groundbreaking. this is the interviewer and a stax employee?


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





ri_toast said:


> for a first post that was pretty nice, my Japanese is nil but could someone post if this is groundbreaking. this is the interviewer and a stax employee?


 
   
  That's one of two Fujiya Avic interviews of Stax prior / at the release of the SR-009 (code names C32 at the time). This video is with Suzuki-san, head of R&D (basically he's THE designer of current stax gear). I posted some half baked translations in the past, don't have time to search it now but you can probably find it under the initial threads (C32 impressions and what not).


----------



## Oceanographic

http://www.head-fi.org/t/546214/auditioned-stax-new-sr-009/30#post_7388200
   
  Basically three good posts in a row. I'm wondering how thin the stator is machined in the hexagonal planes. (?)
  I mean, it is thin. I'm sure it's optimal, based on looking at the design, and etc, in my own 009's. And the videos. Very, very good air dampening =the difference between Crystal sound of the 009, and the strawberry nature of the Orpheuss'.
  Since the main advantage of stats is superior air dampening in nature, (along with those ideal transients ↔ the lighter than air nature of a push-pull diaphragm) the 009's = neat in this regard.
   
  "> People asking if tubes or SS which is better. Suzuki-san prefers SS."
   
  "I used to feel that tubes were somehow naturally better than solid state for Stax headphones – not any more."
   
  "Stax SRM-727A > Stax SR009/SR007mk1".


----------



## gilency

k_19 said:


> So after thinking it over carefully for the past day or so... I've decided to hold on to the 007/717's for the time being... one of the reasons being that I really do want to compare it and the 009's side by side before I decide to really let go of it.  They're also very rare now so I don't want to make the mistake of letting them go too early since I know if I change my mind for any reason, it may become too difficult to find again (especially the 717's)... and perhaps there can be room for both headphones in the collection in the end as they're quite different sounding (whether I can afford to keep both is another story... we'll see what happens).
> 
> I'll have to let go of nearly all my other gear (except for ESW10JPN, they have a certain special sound quality to them and are no longer in production to boot) and go on a strictly ramen-only diet for the next few months so that I can keep these and also pay for the 009's though... well, ok maybe not the ramen diet part
> 
> ...



Or you could sell a kidney, and have spare change for a quality DAC


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





struggles said:


> With the descriptions of the 007 versions mentioned, I do not see much talk about which dust cloth is being used with them? A member here posted about this which led me to take a look at mine, there is quite a difference when comparing the two. I am currently using the thinner cloth with the mk2 pad, anyone else feel this should be noted?


 
   
  No difference what so ever.  I for one have been using Mk2 pads ever since they came out as they are simply better than the Mk1 units.


----------



## struggles

I am just about out the door, I can get better pictures later, these came off an early (702xx) 007, the others are from a new mk2. There is an audible difference between them.
   
  edit: the lighter weave is from the early mk1, the heavier is from the newer mk2 , I should have clarified this.


----------



## Radio_head

Yes there is.


----------



## singh

how much for original lambda in good condition ? ( no dents on the driver mesh  )


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





singh said:


> how much for original lambda in good condition ? ( no dents on the driver mesh  )


 
  Prices seat on $400+.


----------



## Rico613

I'm curious . . . how long does it take to break-in the SR-009 or Stax headphones in general? 
   
  Thanks . . .


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> I'm curious . . . how long does it take to break-in the SR-009 or Stax headphones in general?
> 
> Thanks . . .


 
  I noticed very little to no changes whatsoever with mine.


----------



## bearFNF

Mine are still 'breaking-in" after 25+ years...takes lots of dedicated listening


----------



## agentsim

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> I'm curious . . . how long does it take to break-in the SR-009 or Stax headphones in general?
> 
> Thanks . . .


 
   
  Got mine yesterday... they already sound fantastic 
   
  I find the SRM-727II sounds much better an hour after you first turn it on in the morning... but that's not break-in


----------



## Rico613

Thanks all !


----------



## n3rdling

They don't need break in since the Mylar is stretched at a set tension and keeps shape at earthly temperatures.  The "break in" occurs during stress testing at Stax to weed out any faulty units.


----------



## thinker

Head Amp three ratings with different phones with thinkers ears
  100 =is best wich i have heard and behind me are probably the best amps
  Stax Lambda series headphones 92/100  nice but not best
  Stax Omega  85/100 too weak to get sonic bliss airy without punch
  Grado   100/100 excellent
  Sennheiser HD-800 110/100 mind-boggling probably the best amp for HD-800 under the sun
  Audeze 100/100 nice/planars do not make huge differences with top amps
  I prefer this amp with dynamics and planars.The performance with HD-800 is something wich should be heard by yourself
  and best on 4 pin connection and interestingly stock HD-800 cable was best better than Cardas clear and Toxic cables on this amp.
  This amp has long tone delay and colors and very silky magic mids wich is excellent food for HD-800.The 3D imaging of this amp is unbelievable
  with HD-800.One of the most neutral and detailed tube amp around and easy to use.You can fry eggs on the top plate when the amp got it's running temperature
  Is this amp worth the price?yes it is, it's much better than i described above


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Looking for some opinions here.  I've done lots of reading and searching already.  I have a completely rebuilt srm1-mk2.  How would this compare to the T1?  The T1 is appealing because it has both pro and normal plugs, but I can add a pro plug (and plan to) to my srm1mk2 to solve the usability issue.
   
  Should I bother getting the a T1 that I might have to replace parts and tubes for, or save my money for a lambda signature if it ever comes up?  lol.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Prices seat on $400+.


 
  really? for a standard bias lamda ?
  i saw one go for 100 USD here a month or so ago.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> I'm curious . . . how long does it take to break-in the SR-009 or Stax headphones in general?
> 
> Thanks . . .


 
  No such thing as break in or burn in with electrostatic headphones.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





singh said:


> really? for a standard bias lamda ?
> i saw one go for 100 USD here a month or so ago.


 
  I've been monitoring ebay for over a year now on Stax vintages etc, the prices last year was a lot less expensive than when a Lambda does pop up now on ebay. The last one sold while ago which was the last one I saw was sold for $400 and the condition was crap. It was auction bidding though.


----------



## Argybargy

*ECC99 Tube Upgrade for SRM 007T*
   
  Hi Stax Experts,
   
  I've got an early version 007T (with 2 pro sockets and 1 normal).  If I use an adapter to replace the 6CG7 tubes with ECC99, will I need to change any resistor values or make any other mods?
   
  Where does this mod rank in terms of performance compared to other amps/mods.
  Let's say the BHSE is a perfect score of 100.
  How would you score the ECC99 Mod? 6S4A mod? Stock 007T? Stock 600 Limited?
   
  Thanks for any input.


----------



## padam

Here is a picture (few more details on the following pages)
   
  You can only fit 6S4A tubes in the 007t, the ECC99 is for the SRMT1(S) and 006t amps and the SRM600 is the factory-made version of those.

 What you get is less congestion at high volumes but it is still essentially the same amp so still far from something like a BHSE.


----------



## eric65

[size=8.5pt]Hello.[/size]
   
[size=8.5pt]I researched a bit on the original operation of the headset amplifier AudioValve RKV Mark2 (OTL tube amp.)[/size]
[size=8.5pt]This amplifier OTL would own a specific circuit based on operational amplifiers, solid state regulating the operation of tubes (which would work optimally regardless of their degree of aging), knowing that it is not necessary to match the tubes. These basic tubes (originally intended for television sets) would not intervene in the sound quality (NB: these are solid state operational amplifiers that define the intrinsic characteristics of amplification and sound quality of RKV) and their replacement by more upscale tubes (and more expensive) would be of little interest, except the risk of destabilizing the system compared to the original tubes. [/size]
   
[size=8.5pt]The RKV has some very interesting features to run high-impedance headphones and high-definition as Sennheiser HD 600 and HD 800 and of course the Stax headphones (SR 507 and SR 009) via WooAudio WEE adapter. [/size]
[size=8.5pt]It gives these headphones a very "punchy" bass[/size]
[size=8.5pt]It gives these helmets heat and body to medium it "humanizes"[/size]
[size=8.5pt]Finally it softens the treble and makes it enjoyable to listen to even when recording a little hard in treble, but at the cost of a slight loss of transparency in the register, it is true. [/size]
   
[size=8.5pt]It is therefore understandable why this amplifier RKV blends so well with the headphones mentioned above, very transparent helmets, but sometimes hard in treble or missing body (and heat) in the medium (and high medium), or lack of presence or punch in the bass. [/size]
[size=8.5pt]Finally, this amplifier gives these headphones a very broad and rich soundstage with lots of ventilation and openness. [/size]
   
[size=8.5pt]What happiness with the 009, but that I've already mentioned. [/size]
   
[size=8.5pt]Eric[/size]


----------



## autoteleology

About how much does it cost in parts to build a BHSE?
   
  Also, does anyone know how I can get the schematic for the SRM-Xh?


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> [size=8.5pt]Hello.[/size]
> 
> [size=8.5pt]I researched a bit on the original operation of the headset amplifier AudioValve RKV Mark2 (OTL tube amp.)[/size]
> [size=8.5pt]This amplifier OTL would own a specific circuit based on operational amplifiers, solid state regulating the operation of tubes (which would work optimally regardless of their degree of aging), knowing that it is not necessary to match the tubes. These basic tubes (originally intended for television sets) would not intervene in the sound quality (NB: these are the amps opp defining the intrinsic characteristics of the sound amplifier RKV) and their replacement by more upscale tubes (and more expensive) would be of little interest, except the risk of destabilizing the system compared to the original tubes. [/size]
> ...


 
   
   
  Thanks for your impressions eric, I will be driving an 009 with a WEE as well. But I am having trouble with one of your terms; what is is meant by transparent "helmet"?


----------



## eric65

Originally Posted by *eric65* 




 [size=8.5pt]Hello.[/size]
  
 [size=8.5pt]I researched a bit on the original operation of the headset amplifier AudioValve RKV Mark2 (OTL tube amp.)[/size]
 [size=8.5pt]This amplifier OTL would own a specific circuit based on operational amplifiers, solid state regulating the operation of tubes (which would work optimally regardless of their degree of aging), knowing that it is not necessary to match the tubes. These basic tubes (originally intended for __af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html]television sets) would not intervene in the sound quality (NB: these are solid state operational amplifiers that define the intrinsic characteristics of amplification and sound quality of RKV) and their replacement by more upscale tubes (and more expensive) would be of little interest, except the risk of destabilizing the system compared to the original tubes. [/size]
  
 [size=8.5pt]The RKV has some very interesting features to run high-impedance headphones and high-definition as ]Sennheiser HD 600 and HD 800 and of course the Stax headphones (SR 507 and SR 009) via WooAudio WEE adapter. [/size]
 [size=8.5pt]It gives these headphones a very "punchy" bass[/size]
 [size=8.5pt]It gives these headphone heat and body to midrange it "humanizes"[/size]
 [size=8.5pt]Finally it softens the treble and makes it enjoyable to listen to even when recording a little hard in treble, but at the cost of a slight loss of transparency in the register, it is true. [/size]
  
 [size=8.5pt]It is therefore understandable why this amplifier RKV blends so well with the headphones mentioned above, very transparent headphones, but sometimes hard in treble or missing body (and heat) in the midrange, or lack of presence or punch in the bass. [/size]
 [size=8.5pt]Finally, this amplifier gives these headphones a very broad and rich soundstage with lots of ventilation and openness. [/size]
  
 [size=8.5pt]What happiness with the 009, but that I've already mentioned. [/size]
  
 [size=8.5pt]Eric[/size]
   
   
  Quote:


grokit said:


> Thanks for your impressions eric, I will be driving an 009 with a WEE as well. But I am having trouble with one of your terms; what is is meant by transparent "helmet"?


 
   
   
  Hello grokit
   
  Transparent to the sound or headphone = defined = resolved = detailed, especially in the treble.
   
  Eric


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> About how much does it cost in parts to build a BHSE?


 
  Justin can answer that. (and I doubt that he will)
  One must also consider that the parts are cheaper when bought in quantity.
   
  I'm building an "old school" Blue Hawaii, _*not*_ the *S*pecial *E*dition.
  Only HeadAmp builds those. They use proprietary boards and very slick enclosures.
   
  My DIY BH will look nowhere as nice as the HeadAmp product, hopefully it will function well.
  Parts cost: $1000


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No such thing as break in or burn in with electrostatic headphones.


 
  Electrostatic headphones take 1500-2000 hours to fully break-in, just like dynamic headphones,
   
  after break-in, the sound will be smoother, more air, more transparent.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Electrostatic headphones are just like dynamic headphones,


 
   
  Yeah, aside from the fact that electrostatics are totally different, they are very similar.


----------



## LCfiner

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Electrostatic headphones take *1500-2000 hours to fully break-in*, just like dynamic headphones,
> 
> after break-in, the sound will be smoother, more air, more transparent.


 
   
  that's a new record for the number of hours someone thinks is needed for a product to break in. Any basis for this number?


----------



## livewire

I was wondering the same...


----------



## Gruffnutz

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> that's a new record for the number of hours someone thinks is needed for a product to break in. Any basis for this number?


 

 Of course not.  Utter rubbish.


----------



## edstrelow

Still really like the modded SRXIII Pro from anthonyfirst.  They have a slight upper mid harshness or peak but their general neutrality makes everything sound very fresh and new and makes me want to listen to old material for a fresh take.  They seem extremely dynamic or what some people like to call PRAT (pace, rhythm and timing).  I note they are more efficient than any other stat I have except to SR003. Possibly this gives them their great dynamics.
   
  In fact about the only difficulty with them is that when I try to snooze with them, something I like to do with phones on, they keep me awake because I can't stop tapping my feet to the music.


----------



## arnaud

For grokit (and Eric):
Helmet and headset are the same writing and pronounciation in french (casque). So we understand which one is being referred to during the conversation by context (just like in Japanese conversation where this often occurs). 

Now, for a conversation during which someone talks about how great one's helmet feels when riding his bike while listening to music through one's fantastic headset, then we might get confused .

Arnaud


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> that's a new record for the number of hours someone thinks is needed for a product to break in. Any basis for this number?


 
   
   
  Could be he's pulling our legs.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> For grokit (and Eric):
> Helmet and headset are the same writing and pronounciation in french (casque). So we understand which one is being referred to during the conversation by context (just like in Japanese conversation where this often occurs).
> 
> Now, for a conversation during which someone talks about how great one's helmet feels when riding his bike while listening to music through one's fantastic headset, then we might get confused
> ...


 
   
  Thanks, I get it now!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Electrostatic headphones take 1500-2000 hours to fully break-in, just like dynamic headphones,
> 
> after break-in, the sound will be smoother, more air, more transparent.


 
  No offence but that is rubbish. Sure you can have a few hours of charge up on a pair of electrostats that haven't had use since the dawn of daylight rectify some problems such as low sound volume output or slight humming etc and a full charge up will fix some of these problems but there are no moving parts so no requirement of a full break-in or burn-in. You're comparing a dynamic driver to a stator, apples and bananas comparison.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> that's a new record for the number of hours someone thinks is needed for a product to break in. Any basis for this number?


 
  I think I still hold the record, I said 25+ years and still "breaking-in"


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No offence but that is rubbish. Sure you can have a few hours of charge up on a pair of electrostats that haven't had use since the dawn of daylight rectify some problems such as low sound volume output or slight humming etc and a full charge up will fix some of these problems but there are no moving parts so no requirement of a full break-in or burn-in. You're comparing a dynamic driver to a stator, apples and bananas comparison.


 
  LOL, ok I'm not going to argue with you,
  at least the headphone cable, needs 100-200 hours to break-in, like other IC's.
   
  of course the cable don't have any moving parts too,but ....it needs break-in indeed
  (just curious,who told you "only moving parts need break-in"?even a new solder joint, sounds different after few ten hours)


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> (just curious,who told you "only moving parts need break-in"?even a new solder joint, sounds different after few ten hours)


 
   
  Yes, I can see how the low voltage/current through a solder joint is a very potent way to change its properties. Melting it with a soldering iron in the first instance just isn't enough applied energy to get the job fully done.
   
  No wait, I was wrong, that is close to the dumbest thing I have ever typed.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Yes, I can see how the low voltage/current through a solder joint is a very potent way to change its properties. Melting it with a soldering iron in the first instance just isn't enough applied energy to get the job fully done.
> 
> No wait, I was wrong, that is close to the dumbest thing I have ever typed.


 
  Not "see", you should "hear" the difference for yourself 
  human ears are a lot more sensitive than you imagine
   
  You can't just watch measure instruments & finish the work
  (that's why people like vintage stax more than modern stax,because the old stax developers have good ears)


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Not "see", you should "hear" the difference for yourself
> human ears are a lot more sensitive than you imagine


 
   
  You know what is even more potent than your ears? Neural plasticity, psycho acoustics, confirmation bias, etc. etc. etc.
   
  I have no doubt you perceive a difference, but I just plain don't believe you that the difference is actually there.


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





beefy said:


> psycho acoustics


 
   
  Probably what I have . . .


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> You know what is even more potent than your ears? Neural plasticity, psycho acoustics, confirmation bias, etc. etc. etc.
> 
> I have no doubt you perceive a difference, but I just plain don't believe you that the difference is actually there.


 
  Don't worry about these,I've done a lot DIY projects,did a lot comparison
   
  Then why don't you buy the newest, most advanced headphones, that have better specs on paper?
  why you bought the old tech, high THD, narrow frequency response Lambda?


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Don't worry about these,I've done a lot DIY projects,did a lot comparison


 
   
  You've done some DIY, so you are somehow immune to psychological effects. Duly noted.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> You've done some DIY, so you are somehow immune to psychological effects. Duly noted.


 
  I never said I am immune to psychological effects.
  actually I know they exist,that's why I've done a lot comparison,to carefully confirm
   
  don't be bias & you will learn more


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> I never said I am immune to psychological effects.
> actually I know they exist,that's why I've done a lot comparison,to carefully confirm
> 
> don't be bias & you will learn more


 
   
  So tell me...... how did you perform the comparison between new solder joints versus those that are several hours old?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





beefy said:


> So tell me...... how did you perform the comparison between new solder joints versus those that are several hours old?


 
   
  All my cables were DIY by myself, I can do a AB or ABC or ABCD comparison anytime.
   
  A new solder joint usually sounds dry,warm,fat & veiled.  ,
  the sound will open-up in 10-20 hours, & takes 100-200 hours to stabilized
  the difference is so obvious(at least to me) & happens in such a short time


----------



## DefQon

not sure if serious


----------



## autoteleology

pkshan, your argument is faulty in a variety of areas.

 Our ears are not anywhere near as sensitive or reliable as you would believe. While very sensitive to detail and pitch shift, the ear cannot reliably tell the difference in volume between a tone of one volume and a tone two to three decibels louder, which is a fairly big difference considering that a DOUBLING of perceived volume is six decibels. Also, our ear frequency response changes fairly dramatically depending on the positioning of speakers or headphones, and the output volume of the listening equipment. The differences between a new soldier joint, if they were even perceptible, would be dramatically overshadowed by the random variables of listening volume, head positioning, psychological biases, etc.

 Also, how exactly does something that consists of no moving parts "break in"? The entire point of "breaking in" is to reduce the stiffness of the mechanical parts in said device by making them move for a significant amount of time. The only way I can even fathom something like soldier or a cable could possibly "break in" is if the actual chemical composition of these components themselves were altered through processes such as oxidization or rust.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> *ECC99 Tube Upgrade for SRM 007T*
> 
> Hi Stax Experts,
> 
> ...


 
   
  No 007t has ever been modified for ECC99's but it should work by simply rewiring the heater setup.  The current draw is different though so odds are it will burn up the transformer. 
   
  You are surely joking with that score crap?


----------



## wink

Quotekshan 





> Not "see", you should "hear" the difference for yourself
> human ears are a lot more sensitive than you imagine
> 
> You can't just watch measure instruments & finish the work
> (that's why people like vintage stax more than modern stax,because the old stax developers have good ears)


 
  I believe the largest difference is caused by atmospheric pressure.
   
  When the pressure is low just before a storm hits, the phones sound sooo sweet.
  As the millibars rise, the sweetness seems to get sucked out of the system.
   
  If you believe that you will believe anything.......


----------



## forbigger

pkshan - you must be related to superman


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





wink said:


> I believe the largest difference is caused by atmospheric pressure.
> 
> When the pressure is low just before a storm hits, the phones sound sooo sweet.
> As the millibars rise, the sweetness seems to get sucked out of the system.
> ...


 
   
  I don't believe that atmospheric pressure can cause a difference in the way a headphone sounds, but it's entirely possible that it affects our hearing. Which would affect the way a headphone sounds.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





grokit said:


> I don't believe that atmospheric pressure can cause a difference in the way a headphone sounds, but it's entirely possible that it affects our hearing. Which would affect the way a headphone sounds.


 
   
   When the barometer drops usually so does the temperature and the humdity rises.  You don't think these might have an affect on headphones?


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Okay, I won't rule it out -- it might, anything is possible!


----------



## n3rdling

I only listen to my electrostats after a rainy day now.  More negative ions in the air...the charged stators come to life and fully 'open up'!


----------



## Radio_head

Anyone who thinks a new joint and an old joint are the same... I'd like to have some of what you're smoking.


----------



## n3rdling

Really though, if there was a functional change as a result of the solder joint being in place for a certain amount of time, everybody would know about it.  It'd effect all of your electronics, the wiring in your home to your outlets, your car, piping, etc.  Everything would have to take this variable into account and compensate for it.  You don't think a company like IBM would know for a fact by now that what you're saying is true?  I'll take billions of dollars worth of global research over a person from the internet swearing he heard a difference, no offense.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





radio_head said:


> Anyone who thinks a new joint and an old joint are *different*... I'd like to have some of what you're smoking.


 
  Surely you must mean this?


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> For grokit (and Eric):
> Helmet and headset are the same writing and pronounciation in french (casque). So we understand which one is being referred to during the conversation by context (just like in Japanese conversation where this often occurs).
> 
> Now, for a conversation during which someone talks about how great one's helmet feels when riding his bike while listening to music through one's fantastic headset, then we might get confused
> ...


 
   
  Thank you Arnaud


----------



## jjinh

This thread's been going to lots of interesting places since I last visited...


----------



## wink

Welcome back Jin.....


----------



## Argybargy

spritzer said:


> No 007t has ever been modified for ECC99's but it should work by simply rewiring the heater setup.  The current draw is different though so odds are it will burn up the transformer.
> 
> You are surely joking with that score crap?



Haha, engineers love to quantify the unquantifiable... Expressing your opinion as a single number seems succinct and to the point, two traits sometimes missing on HF.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





wink said:


> Welcome back Jin.....


 
   
  Been busy. Today's a bit cold and windy so I'm using an amp to keep my feet warm 
   
  Recently we had a tree take down 10 or so power poles at the park across the road. All of the poles had to be re-cabled - I dont think those cables have burnt-in yet because everything I listen to just sounds terrible!


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> pkshan, your argument is faulty in a variety of areas.
> 
> Our ears are not anywhere near as sensitive or reliable as you would believe. While very sensitive to detail and pitch shift, the ear cannot reliably tell the difference in volume between a tone of one volume and a tone two to three decibels louder, which is a fairly big difference considering that a DOUBLING of perceived volume is six decibels. Also, our ear frequency response changes fairly dramatically depending on the positioning of speakers or headphones, and the output volume of the listening equipment. The differences between a new soldier joint, if they were even perceptible, would be dramatically overshadowed by the random variables of listening volume, head positioning, psychological biases, etc.
> 
> Also, how exactly does something that consists of no moving parts "break in"? The entire point of "breaking in" is to reduce the stiffness of the mechanical parts in said device by making them move for a significant amount of time. The only way I can even fathom something like soldier or a cable could possibly "break in" is if the actual chemical composition of these components themselves were altered through processes such as oxidization or rust.


 
   
  Can you describe in scientific terms, why the vocals on HE60/Lambda are so good?what make them sound lively?
  Why many electrostatic headphone users feel the dynamic headphone sound like crap?
   
  Human ears are extreme sensitive to some distortions: break-in difference (IMD?), jitter distortion etc 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/measurement-and-audibility-headphone-break
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/measurement-and-audibility-headphone-break-page-4


----------



## wink

Quote:Jjinh 





> Been busy. Today's a bit cold and windy so I'm using an amp to keep my feet warm
> 
> Recently we had a tree take down 10 or so power poles at the park across the road. All of the poles had to be re-cabled - I dont think those cables have burnt-in yet because everything I listen to just sounds terrible!


 
  Check your ears for earwax....


----------



## pkshan

Just remember one thing humans are not machines,
  To play chess with a human,IBM needs to hire hundreds of engineers & using a supercomputer.
  You can't just use 1 or 2 indicators to tell why we feel this way


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





wink said:


> Check your ears for earwax....


 
   
  Yeh, I think that could be a problem, especially since I started getting therapeutic ear candling...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Not "see", you should "hear" the difference for yourself
> human ears are a lot more sensitive than you imagine
> 
> You can't just watch measure instruments & finish the work
> (that's why people like vintage stax more than modern stax,because the old stax developers have good ears)


 
  Hearing takes place in the brain, not the ears. 
   
  The only way to demonstrate that anyone can hear differences in things like cables, solder, connectors, etc is double-blind comparison.  To date, it has NEVER been demonstrated that anyone can actually hear such differences. They THINK they can, of course.  But they can't SHOW that they can hear these differences.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Yeh, I think that could be a problem, especially since I started getting therapeutic ear candling...


 
   
  More than just earwax might be causing problems.   Click HERE


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Human ears are extreme sensitive to some distortions: break-in difference (IMD?), jitter distortion etc


 
   
  And the proof that solder joints of all things actually cause these distortions, and that they are still audible.....?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





beefy said:


> And the proof that solder joints of all things actually cause these distortions, and that they are still audible.....?


 
  Not worth it man....


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Not worth it man....


 
   
  I suspect you are right, but a man can dream......
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Yeh, I think that could be a problem, especially since I started getting therapeutic ear candling...


 
   
  Oh, and I just wanted to add that ear candling is not only a complete load of steaming camel poo, but also _really_ dangerous.


----------



## padam

Back on topic, I think it's about time to get new pads for my beloved normal bias Lambdas.

 Trouble is I now have three options.
  I can either have NOS old version black ones (like on SR202 for instance), I can have the current ones with the separate mesh (like SR207) or I might try the leather pads like SR507.
   
  Anybody experimented with that? I am sure there is a difference, but it might be the opposite of what I expect.


----------



## autoteleology

I have three different pads (SR-202, SR-303, and SR-507) for my Lambda SR-303 and honestly? The leather pads absolutely blow away all the rest. No contest.


----------



## DefQon

I have the 207 pads and they are more firm and soft than the NOS more stiff leather. They also provide a better seal and the removable mesh guard is a plus compared to the foam on the NOS 202 ones which can easily tear and disintegrate.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> Haha, engineers love to quantify the unquantifiable... Expressing your opinion as a single number seems succinct and to the point, two traits sometimes missing on HF.


 
   
  I think the problem on HF is that people are trying to quantify the unquantifiable.  Price is the biggest evil in this regard as things that cost the same must be of equal performance... right? 
   
  If there had ever been a real Canjam after the one in Chicago then I would have brought a simple test for people to try out.  Two identical boxes that are completely sealed.  One containing a sub par and and one containing a well designed one.  It would have been interesting to see how many people could actually pick the better one...


----------



## Lil' Knight

First we had Stax sockets sound differently, and now solder joints do the same thing. The level of cluelessness is just too amazing.


----------



## rolandmsv

Tried to roll up solder joint - can't ignite it. How did you smoke them?!


----------



## DefQon

Onl





rolandmsv said:


> Tried to roll up solder joint - can't ignite it. How did you smoke them?!


only the cardas lights up properly it offers incredible transients while I inhale a puff.


----------



## Shep

Just another +1 for Price Japan.  The wife wanted a holiday in Japan last week on the strength (well, weakness then) of the Yen.  Seeing an opportunity to avoid import duty where I live, I asked Price Japan to deliver a 727A to our hotel in Fukuoka. They did.  At the right time, courier & insurance included in their 5%, for US$1200.  Impressive service, lovely amp, now for that Spritzer mod.....


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





rolandmsv said:


> Tried to roll up solder joint - can't ignite it. How did you smoke them?!


 
   
  I should take this opportunity to warn you against smoking lead solder. It is indeed a very dangerous practice. Long-term use will lead to chronic headaches and other symptoms of lead poisoning! I learnt this the hard way and it is for this reason I have turned to ear candling; I find it works reasonably well in relieving my headaches, and on the occasions my face does not get horribly burnt it is actually quite relaxing. Please ignore what the FDA says, it is not a form of quakery.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Got the Stax 407 demo off Headamp, and I'm completely blown away. No doubt, technicallu the best headphone I've heard outside of the LCD2, and I only prefer the LCD2 due to it's warm colorization. The 407 is beautifully transparent, and extremely clean sounding without sounding sterile. 

I've heard that the 507 is kind of bright. The 407 to me is actually quite neutral. The treble is well extended, but even with bright recordings, I don't get any fatigue. Basically the best treble I have ever heard on any headphone, period. I also heard the bass was supposed to be light. I appreciate my bass like any other person, yet, I don't find the bass lacking. It sounds neutrak. Quick and textured. Not slammy, but true to the recording.

Question, and only a question, what speaker amp could I pair with something like this? That SRM252S amp is quite small, and I don't know how well it could drive other Stax models. I think my next step is Stax, but I don't wanna pay an ungodly amount of money for an electrostatic amp if speaker taps would do me fine. If I could run it off my Marantz receiver's speaker taps, that'd be swell too...

http://www.amazon.com/Emotiva-Mini-x--100-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B008O37FOE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366428083&sr=8-1&keywords=emotiva+speaker+amp

Something like that?


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> Got the Stax 407 demo off Headamp, and I'm completely blown away. No doubt, technicallu the best headphone I've heard outside of the LCD2, and I only prefer the LCD2 due to it's warm colorization. The 407 is beautifully transparent, and extremely clean sounding without sounding sterile.
> 
> I've heard that the 507 is kind of bright. The 407 to me is actually quite neutral. The treble is well extended, but even with bright recordings, I don't get any fatigue. Basically the best treble I have ever heard on any headphone, period. I also heard the bass was supposed to be light. I appreciate my bass like any other person, yet, I don't find the bass lacking. It sounds neutrak. Quick and textured. Not slammy, but true to the recording.
> 
> Question, and only a question, what speaker amp could I pair with something like this? That SRM252S amp is quite small, and I don't know how well it could drive other Stax models. I think my next step is Stax, but I don't wanna pay an ungodly amount of money for an electrostatic amp if speaker taps would do me fine. If I could run it off my Marantz receiver's speaker taps, that'd be swell too...


 
   
  The 507 is slightly brighter than the 407 - nothing ear shredding though. Also you've loved the 990 in the past, there won't be any "treble" you can't handle 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. The bass I feel is quite better than the 407, but not worth the 500 bucks difference if you buy retail. Importing from Japan is another matter though.
   
  To drive Stax off speaker tap, you'll need an adapter (Woo Wee or the Stax SRD 7). However it's better to shell out money for a real dedicated amplifier (considering the WEE is 400 or 500 bucks, and the SRD7 isn't always there on ebay; while a 323s from pricejapan is around 700 only). You wouldn't need a KGSS/LL/BHSE for the 407; just a 323s or 006t will do. I'm driving the 507 with a 323s and got no complain. The thing even got a loop out so I can use my lampi (only 1 single ended out) with my dynamic setup also.


----------



## DefQon

You have a lampizator dac as well?


----------



## khaine1711

Yea, after trying lots of "this month dac, which blows the last fotm dac out of the water", I think I will settle with the Lampi. Still ultra curious about the lampi lv6, but it seems like noone has ever ordered one


----------



## DefQon

khaine1711 said:


> Yea, after trying lots of "this month dac, which blows the last fotm dac out of the water", I think I will settle with the Lampi.


 Nice I've heard a level 4 before directly compared to a few other Big name and well known DAC's and the Polish Lampi destroys them in terms of sound. Depending on where I go whether or not I get a BHSE I do plan on a level 6 with a few other mods that I have gotten a quote on. The lampi is no looker but honestly I reckon it will sound on par or possibly even better than the $30k MSB dac.


----------



## DefQon

Think it might've been a level 5 not sure. Either way it sounded very good and that's all that matters.


----------



## khaine1711

Sure it'll sound good, the level 5 is the TOTL lampi atm.
   
  I'm just curious since the level 6 is sort of special. I haven't inquired about it (won't be able to afford one in several years to come); but the lv6 actually use expensive triode for the output stage (2a3/300b) and knowing Lukas he may even use the 845 tube if the buyer request. The thing ticks most of the fancy boxes for audiophiles, and it doesn't cost that much more compared to the level 5. Surely there must be someone with enough disposable income and curiousity for the level 6; yet after a while there's still nothing while  info/impression on the dCS stack, msb stack and even the Audio Note CDT system can easily be found.


----------



## DefQon

Thanks to him I have my CD300 lampized


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





rolandmsv said:


> Tried to roll up solder joint - can't ignite it. How did you smoke them?!


 
  I tried smoking some salmon once..... wasn't really all that great. They have to be pretty dry to stay lit.  The  only effect it had was that cats followed me around for a few days.


----------



## DefQon

Lol


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> The 507 is slightly brighter than the 407 - nothing ear shredding though.


 
   
  I really didn't find this to be the case when I had both of them in my possession to compare. They sounded nigh identical to each other.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> I really didn't find this to be the case when I had both of them in my possession to compare. They sounded nigh identical to each other.


 
   
  They are, save for the driver variances inherent in manufacturing and the slight difference imparted by the change in earpad material. Overstatement of differences between 2/3/4/5 editions of the same gen lambdas is par for the course


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Really though, if there was a functional change as a result of the solder joint being in place for a certain amount of time, everybody would know about it.  It'd effect all of your electronics, the wiring in your home to your outlets, your car, piping, etc.  Everything would have to take this variable into account and compensate for it.  You don't think a company like IBM would know for a fact by now that what you're saying is true?  I'll take billions of dollars worth of global research over a person from the internet swearing he heard a difference, no offense.


 

 When I brought defective hifi-equipment to my electronics-savvy friend the first thing he always did was check all solder connections and resolder the "suspicious" ones. After re-soldering them in 80 percent of the cases the equipment would play again.


----------



## givemevinyl

I'm looking for a used 007 MK1.  Is there a particular serial number range I should look for?


----------



## K_19

From what I remember reading the 7xxxx's are supposed to sound most neutral, but the really early ones had some issues with build quality or something like that.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





yawg said:


> When I brought defective hifi-equipment to my electronics-savvy friend the first thing he always did was check all solder connections and resolder the "suspicious" ones. After re-soldering them in 80 percent of the cases the equipment would play again.


 
  ya cold solder joints


----------



## arnaud

I did some measurement of my SR-007mk1 yesterday, wanted to compare against my previous 007mk2 (SZ3).
  
 First, did measurement on urethane lined flat plate using EMC8000 mic, checked repeatability and it was bad (lack of seal), I had to get rid of 1 data set to get a reasonable average:
    
  Then I thought some in-ear miniature mics I recently acquired would solve the seal issue and influence of poor mic centering. Well, turns out the SNR of these mics is plain terrible at LF and they are pair matched like - I shall not name the brand - headphone:

   
   

  
   
I then went on to remeasure my 009, the soft and large ear pad makes it much easier to get repeatable results on a plane baffle test:

    
   
I could check the consistency of the tests by comparing against measurements from august last year. Could be better, the response above 8kHz is quite sensitive to mic placement:
   
  Last, I could compare the SR007mk1 (measured yesterday) to the SR007mk2(SZ3, measured last august):

   

   
  Basically, the Omega 2 comparisons are not too useful. The issue with seal prevents to see the difference in design between the 2 itérations (mk2 being vented with a tendency to have boomy bass). The discrepancies at high-frequency might be just as much a test issue (mic centering) as actual phenomenon. Upon listening to the Omega 2 mk2 (SZ2) however, we certainly hear a bit of lively highs which make it appear more dynamic than the mk1 , at the expense of sounding somewhat hard at times.
  For the 009, it's a totally different voicing but we can see the bass response being quite a bit more "linear" than the Omega 2 (again this may be just as much a test issue with sealing than an actual phenomenon - at least my mk1 don't sound boomy).
   
  Probably the next step for me is to contact the tech support of the company of sent me these "high quality" in ear mics. They are useless as-is... But the baffle plate measurement are not much value either so really, I hope to get this on-head testing going (if I read reasonable quality mics, I would then calibrate the measurement using some personalized HRTFs).
   

  Arnaud


----------



## complin

I would have thought the Lampi and MSB will be like chalk and cheese in terms of sound?
  Totally different concepts, technologies and implementations.
   
  I have heard the level 4 but I don't consider them very good value for money and can sound a little dull at times
  Personally I prefer one of the Metrums like the Octave or Hex.  Much more direct and natural, but with great tonal colour and great bang for the buck, particularly now the Octave MKII is now available.
  The EAR Yosino DAC is great sounding option too if you want tubes in the audio chain.
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Nice I've heard a level 4 before directly compared to a few other Big name and well known DAC's and the Polish Lampi destroys them in terms of sound. Depending on where I go whether or not I get a BHSE I do plan on a level 6 with a few other mods that I have gotten a quote on. The lampi is no looker but honestly I reckon it will sound on par or possibly even better than the $30k MSB dac.


----------



## DefQon

Never heard the MSB's but I preferred the l4 4/5 times of the 5 dacs compared in the same chain until it was on par with a Weiss Dac202 for some of the stuff I was listenimg to. Oh yeah there is quite a fair bit of people on diyaudio that have owned and the 30k MSB and think it is a joke sonically compared to amps much less expensive and sound quality aspects.


----------



## DefQon

P.S hate typing on my phone.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I did some measurement of my SR-007mk1 yesterday, wanted to compare against my previous 007mk2 (SZ3).
> 
> First, did measurement on urethane lined flat plate using EMC8000 mic, checked repeatability and it was bad (lack of seal), I had to get rid of 1 data set to get a reasonable average:
> 
> ...


 
   
 
   

  Hello Arnaud, even without calibration, I find your measurements in "in-ear" (microphone placed directly in the ear canal of the ear + headphones directly placed on the head (without baffle plane) as a more realistic and representative what is seen "for real" with headphones, for two headphones studied (009 and 007mk1).
   
  The bump in the low 007 between 50 and 70 Hz is obvious and detrimental to the readability of the low above and below (masking).
  The extreme bass of 009 (below 40 Hz) is much larger than the 007, and that's the reality.
  Finally, if we compare the average relative value between 3000 and 4000 Hz with the average between 300 and 400 Hz for these two headphones, we can see that the 009 has 4-5 dB relative level of more than 007 at 3 -4000 Hz and it makes a big difference in listening with the high midrange that seems much more clear (less veiled) compared to that of 007.
   
  Eric


----------



## autoteleology

> I did some measurement of my SR-007mk1 yesterday, wanted to compare against my previous 007mk2 [...] basically, the Omega 2 comparisons are not too useful. The issue with seal prevents to see the difference in design between the 2 itérations (mk2 being vented with a tendency to have boomy bass). The discrepancies at high-frequency might be just as much a test issue (mic centering) as actual phenomenon


 
   
  This might be a little off topic, but I think this highlights one of the biggest problems in headphone measuring. Every single tester has a different methodology and different equipment to test headphones, making it impossible to compare results from multiple sources and impossible to truly get a sense of how the measurements recorded relate to your own deviations from the average variables. I think it would be great if somebody could make a standardized set of relatively affordable equipment and a standard set of directions for taking the measurements.


----------



## vytis

Hello world, this is my first post!
   
  I've just ordered my first Stax system from Japan. Can't wait to have it here with me. I have a couple of questions and would highly appreciate your input:
   
  1. Since I'm in Europe (220V) I was wondering what would be the most elegant way of powering my brand new SRM-252S? Should I get one of these step down converters-transformers and deal with extra cables/boxes/adapters? Or would a generic 12V/4W adapter work as a replacement to the one that comes with the system? What should I look for when choosing an adapter?
   
  2. I will be using Stax earspeakers in the studio with my Pro Tools HD system. Can I connect the energizer to the headphone out of an Avid HD Omni interface? I would very much prefer headphone out rather than line out (due to internal routing flexibility). Here's what it says in the manual: The HD OMNI Headphone output is set to power 600 Ohm headphones at +3 dBV. Would that work?
   
  Any thoughts / advice would be highly appreciated.
  Cheers!


----------



## arnaud

Tus-chan, to be honest, there are some fairly standardized test protocols for headphones and hardware has been sold for decades (ear couplers / dummy heads) to make measurements. Regardless of what you might read from some self proclaimed experts, calibrated dummy heads (those used by the whole transportation industry car - rails - air) remain the most trustworthy device - at least for over ear phones. Combining such measurement with a quality head (and documenting all the gear used in the test) with strict repeatability tests (that's the killer as it takes some effort) should be as good as it gets. 

For the matter of comparing results from different sites, you can ignore stuff that is not measured on a head as it basically cannot be objectively compensated for. The value then remains in terms of comparisons (as Eric mentioned with the 007 vs. 009 level differences in the midrange - a region where it's difficult to screw up the test). For dummy head measurements, the main source of discrepancies will be the compensation curve used (there are differences between free field and diffuse field HRTF of a single dummy head for instance). Each maker also has different artificial ear geometry and skin replica but they all come calibrated so it should have less influence than the choice of the compensation curve.

As for a testing procedure, from all I have seen, I trust Tyll's the most. He also has the merit of not oversmoothing the curves / plotting on a 2000dB scale which are the typical escape routes to a poor performing phone and/or testing method. Only thing I might add is to repeat the measurements 3-5 times for simply reseating the phone as he is currently also moving the phone up/down/front/back on the head to minimize mic placement effect but this creates seal issue for some gear. With a dummy head, you have a centering grid so you can make sure you're always centered.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Tus-chan, to be honest, there are some fairly standardized test protocols for headphones and hardware has been sold for decades (ear couplers / dummy heads) to make measurements. Regardless of what you might read from some self proclaimed experts, calibrated dummy heads (those used by the whole transportation industry car - rails - air) remain the most trustworthy device - at least for over ear phones. Combining such measurement with a quality head (and documenting all the gear used in the test) with strict repeatability tests (that's the killer as it takes some effort) should be as good as it gets.
> 
> For the matter of comparing results from different sites, you can ignore stuff that is not measured on a head as it basically cannot be objectively compensated for. The value then remains in terms of comparisons (as Eric mentioned with the 007 vs. 009 level differences in the midrange - a region where it's difficult to screw up the test). For dummy head measurements, the main source of discrepancies will be the compensation curve used (there are differences between free field and diffuse field HRTF of a single dummy head for instance). Each maker also has different artificial ear geometry and skin replica but they all come calibrated so it should have less influence than the choice of the compensation curve.
> 
> As for a testing procedure, from all I have seen, I trust Tyll's the most. He also has the merit of not oversmoothing the curves / plotting on a 2000dB scale which are the typical escape routes to a poor performing phone and/or testing method. Only thing I might add is to repeat the measurements 3-5 times for simply reseating the phone as he is currently also moving the phone up/down/front/back on the head to minimize mic placement effect but this creates seal issue for some gear. With a dummy head, you have a centering grid so you can make sure you're always centered.


 
   
  Yeah, one can read Tyll's measurements and readily compare between them. Tyll is the man.
   
  Also of interest are Purin's waterfall plots-  http://www.head-fi.org/t/566929/headphone-csd-waterfall-plots


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Here's my basically finished review of the Stax SR-407 (off my gaming guide)



> *Stax SR-407*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





vytis said:


> Hello world, this is my first post!
> 
> I've just ordered my first Stax system from Japan. Can't wait to have it here with me. I have a couple of questions and would highly appreciate your input:
> 
> 1. Since I'm in Europe (220V) I was wondering what would be the most elegant way of powering my brand new SRM-252S? Should I get one of these step down converters-transformers and deal with extra cables/boxes/adapters? Or would a generic 12V/4W adapter work as a replacement to the one that comes with the system? What should I look for when choosing an adapter?


 
   
  You just need a 12VDC/1000ma adapter and they are used on a lot of stuff these days.  The problem though is that 99.9995% of them have the center pin positive but Stax has the center pin as negative.  Easy enough to change by changing the plug or just cutting the wire and crossing the wires.


----------



## vytis

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You just need a 12VDC/1000ma adapter and they are used on a lot of stuff these days.  The problem though is that 99.9995% of them have the center pin positive but Stax has the center pin as negative.  Easy enough to change by changing the plug or just cutting the wire and crossing the wires.


 
  Fantastic! Just the information I was looking for. Thanks! I really appreciate it.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





vytis said:


> 2. I will be using Stax earspeakers in the studio with my Pro Tools HD system. Can I connect the energizer to the headphone out of an Avid HD Omni interface? I would very much prefer headphone out rather than line out (due to internal routing flexibility). Here's what it says in the manual: The HD OMNI Headphone output is set to power 600 Ohm headphones at +3 dBV. Would that work?
> 
> Any thoughts / advice would be highly appreciated.
> Cheers!


 
    It will probably work in the sense that you will get sound out.  It might be sonically off because the Stax amps are designed ofr a line level signal.


----------



## vytis

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> It will probably work in the sense that you will get sound out.  It might be sonically off because the Stax amps are designed ofr a line level signal.


 
  Sure. I'll have to experiment with it myself and do some comparisons. Just wanted to make sure that I won't damage the Stax system by feeding it a headphone-level signal. Thanks.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





edstrelow said:


> It will probably work in the sense that you will get sound out.  It might be sonically off because the Stax amps are designed ofr a line level signal.


 
   
  I call shenanigans.
   
  Driving from a headphone out is no different to driving from an active preamp. You can easily set the output to line-level-equivalent voltages with the preamp/headphone volume control; the only difference being higher current capability from the preamp/headphone to drive low impedance loads.


----------



## brokenthumb

Thanks for the review of the 407 MLE.  I have been interested in these the past couple of months, nice to read your thoughts on it.


----------



## Chodi

Excellent review on the 407's MLE. Having owned them for several months (since sold) I can say your review is spot on with my impressions. I would note that they will scale up nicely with a better amp and 507 ear pads. I think that would improve your impression of the depth of soundstage but it won't do much for the comfort issue. I have large ears and the cups on the 407 were just too small for my ears even with the 507 pads.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Thanks guys, nice to know it helps some people, lol.

It's only a loaner, so I doubt I'll hear them again, but they are an incredible value for sure.


----------



## MohawkUS

mad lust envy said:


> Thanks guys, nice to know it helps some people, lol.
> 
> It's only a loaner, so I doubt I'll hear them again, but they are an incredible value for sure.




Thanks. There really weren't any in-depth reviews of the newest Lambdas, so your review is very helpful.


----------



## Currawong

mad lust envy said:


> Got the Stax 407 demo off Headamp, and I'm completely blown away. No doubt, technicallu the best headphone I've heard outside of the LCD2, and I only prefer the LCD2 due to it's warm colorization. The 407 is beautifully transparent, and extremely clean sounding without sounding sterile.
> 
> I've heard that the 507 is kind of bright. The 407 to me is actually quite neutral. The treble is well extended, but even with bright recordings, I don't get any fatigue. Basically the best treble I have ever heard on any headphone, period. I also heard the bass was supposed to be light. I appreciate my bass like any other person, yet, I don't find the bass lacking. It sounds neutrak. Quick and textured. Not slammy, but true to the recording.
> 
> ...


 
   
  You know you wont stop until you own a BHSE or the like, so start saving. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   



complin said:


> I have heard the level 4 but I don't consider them very good value for money and can sound a little dull at times
> Personally I prefer one of the Metrums like the Octave or Hex.  Much more direct and natural, but with great tonal colour and great bang for the buck, particularly now the Octave MKII is now available.
> The EAR Yosino DAC is great sounding option too if you want tubes in the audio chain.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I'm very much thinking just to get it over and done with and get a level 5 actually (I need balanced outputs). I want to never desire to own another new DAC again. But then, maybe because I already had tubes in the chain and upgraded to the Master 7 I lost any reason to keep the Octave. I think that might change with the 009s though, but I'm not sure.


----------



## KingStyles

I never thought I would see Mad Lust in the stax thread. Welcome.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Neither did I, lol. It was thanks to Justin at Headamp for loaning the 407 and 252S amp to me. Now I simply must hear the 007 and 009.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> Neither did I, lol. It was thanks to Justin at Headamp for loaning the 407 and 252S amp to me. Now I simply must hear the 007 and 009.


 

 Glad to see stax enter your repertoire. Little known secret: 009 are the best headphones for gaming. The HD800 are a close second.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I can only imagine those two. I guess the HD800 isn't in the realm of impossibility for me, but I can't justify spending so much for a headphone that I know I wouldn't love outside of gaming. I do prefer a warmer tone. My exception would be them flagship level Stax duo. I'm sure I'd be happier with the warmer 007 than the 009.


----------



## DefQon

Ok....it's good to be back online properly after some major headfk of a downtime my telecoms provider has given me. My xh came today, opened her up and here are some shots for you spritz to see if these can take any of the mods you have done to your xh (besides cap upgrades which I'll do later on):
   

   
   

   
   

   
Sorry for crap quality shots, these were taken off my phone.
   
First impressions: Very clean and very well controlled sound, kind of dynamic sounding with my 202's, just ok with the Omega's haven't tried my LP or my new Gamma Pro's as I haven't had much free time since this morning. A definite step up over the 252 and 313's I have heard.
   
@MLE: Nice review, those are on loan from Justin yeah?


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Yeah. I just finished packing it up for the next person.


----------



## DefQon

Well that sucks.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Ok....it's good to be back online properly after some major headfk of a downtime my telecoms provider has given me. My xh came today, opened her up and here are some shots for you spritz to see if these can take any of the mods you have done to your xh (besides cap upgrades which I'll do later on):
> 
> Sorry for crap quality shots, these were taken off my phone.
> 
> ...


 
   
  That's the good version but you have to be super careful when modifying it.  It's very easy to run those parts out of spec so I'd leave the PSU well alone.  Just replace the volume control with something better and upgrade the caps.


----------



## MohawkUS

defqon said:


> First impressions: A definite step up over the 252 and 313's I have heard.




Am I reading that right? The xh is better than both it's replacement model and the 313? I might just have to get one of these then. How much better than the 313 is it? How does it compare against the various tube amplifiers?


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> I can only imagine those two. I guess the HD800 isn't in the realm of impossibility for me, but I can't justify spending so much for a headphone that I know I wouldn't love outside of gaming. I do prefer a warmer tone. My exception would be them flagship level Stax duo. I'm sure I'd be happier with the warmer 007 than the 009.


 
  Don't be too quick to discount the HD800 - it can be tamed to neutrality if not warmth. Another stat to consider if budget is a concern is the Koss 950. Otherwise, yeah, it sounds like the 007 will be right up your alley.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Am I reading that right? The xh is better than both it's replacement model and the 313? I might just have to get one of these then. How much better than the 313 is it? How does it compare against the various tube amplifiers?


 
   
  The Xh uses the same circuit as those except it is less refined.  The SRM-3 is the same exact amp as this version of the Xh (uses the same PCB) but with a full size PSU and more power.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's the good version but you have to be super careful when modifying it.  It's very easy to run those parts out of spec so I'd leave the PSU well alone.  Just replace the volume control with something better and upgrade the caps.


 
  Cool, I was planning to add in some balanced inputs like you did, got some philips bc's on order to replace the 22uf 250v Sanyo cap's, can't find any decently good branded 50v 1uf cap to replace the generic looking one for what looks to be for power filtering next to the tranny. Gonna replace the blue cap next to the DC jack with a spare Silmic 2 I've got lying around.
   
  Any good substitutes for the cheap ALP's currently used that will fit in size wise? I've got some RK ALP's and stepped Goldpoints but won't be able to fix in.
  Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> Am I reading that right? The xh is better than both it's replacement model and the 313? I might just have to get one of these then. How much better than the 313 is it? How does it compare against the various tube amplifiers?


 
   
  First impressions from a quick listen but from memory as spritzer has pointed out the xh circuit is used in the 313, the 313 and xh sound very similar to each other. For me a noticeable step up in sound compared to the 252. 
   
  The only tube amp I've also heard is the T1's. The T1's sound better, more body and dynamics to the sound I wouldn't say a more coloured sound but is more intimate sounding than the xh. The xh is pretty good for the price I paid for on the gon. $125 + 35 shipped from Japan. Better than wiktors $325 buy it now on fleabay.
   
  Going to try get my hands on a 323.


----------



## Lil' Knight

I would bet you could fit the TKD 2cp601 volume pot into that space. It's not as nice as its bigger brother 2cp2511 but still far superior to the Alps RK27. The BC caps are great but my favorite psu caps lately is the blue Cornell Dubilier.


----------



## Lil' Knight

-d.p-


----------



## livewire

Spritzer has the most excellent miniature Alpha pots on hand.
  If you ask, he may sell you one. Not sure which R value you require tho...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





lil' knight said:


> I would bet you could fit the TKD 2cp601 volume pot into that space. It's not as nice as its bigger brother 2cp2511 but still far superior to the Alps RK27. The BC caps are great but my favorite psu caps lately is the blue Cornell Dubilier.


 
  The clearance is about 1 inch inside from bottom base to top this is including the metrics for using the pre-existing drilled out hole for the pot shaft. I have a few black beauties and RK27's but yeah. The BC's are the only decent cap I can get my hands on that have a low esr and I have used them before in other amps with good results. The others that came in this value are the Rubycon BXA's which are meh. I would've used CB's as well but again, using stuff that can be obtained easily for myself.
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Spritzer has the most excellent miniature Alpha pots on hand.
> If you ask, he may sell you one. Not sure which R value you require tho...


 
  I'm sure he will post back after he sees this post. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Oh man, decided to try running my SR-30 electrets on the xh, man I don't believe it, these things have bass.


----------



## Lil' Knight

livewire said:


> Spritzer has the most excellent miniature Alpha pots on hand.
> If you ask, he may sell you one. Not sure which R value you require tho...



Not sure if he has a stereo pot though, all of the Alphas I've seen so far is quad.

The Alps RK40 is awesome if you have one but since you have 1" space to fool around, I don't think it would fit.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





lil' knight said:


> Not sure if he has a stereo pot though, all of the Alphas I've seen so far is quad.
> 
> The Alps RK40 is awesome if you have one but since you have 1" space to fool around, I don't think it would fit.


 
  Very very very tight squeeze. So I'm looking at alternatives atm.


----------



## spritzer

The Alpha would be a very tight fit so I'd use a TKD 4CP-60.  That's what I used in the amp I converted and even then I had to butcher the PCB a bit. 
   
  For the 1uf/50V cap I just Wima's.


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> can anyone make a comment/comparison on their findings between the 407 and original lambda on the same amp?


 
  For about one month, I had my old original Lambda's and my new 407's to use with my old SRM-1/M2 Professional.  I did a fair amount of comparative listening (the Lambda's had been re-drivered by Yama's about 8 years ago).  What I found was that the original Lambda's were a bit more 'muted'... by that I mean a bit softer across the range.  It's a bit hard to explain, but although the clarity was there in the Lambda's, especially in the mid to upper range, the 407's had more presence, more bite to them.  The difference was not very large, however.  The biggest difference was in the bass.  The Lambda's had always been soft in the bass, the 407's had more impact as well as more clarity.  I wouldn't say the 407's went deeper, but they certainly presented same bass frequencies with more impact and clarity.  I hasten to add that the 407's were not harsh in any way, except with the most sibilant, bright recordings.
   
  Running the 407's with my newer SRM-323s, I hear even more presence with the 407's.  Although I cannot directly compare the two earspeakers (the 323 does not have a 'Normal' bias output, and I no longer have the Lambda's), I feel the bass goes deeper than it did with the SRM-1/Mk2.  Treble is crisp, not harsh.  These aren't phones for bass-heads, but the bass is more satisfying with the 407's than the Lambda's.
   
  Hope this helps.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

That's what I felt about the 407. It's the first estat I've ever heard, and I was expecting tight, but lightness in the bass. Sure the extreme lower bass is lacking, but mid bass impact, texture, clarity, and decay were all very impressive. It has a nice kick to it that I surely didn't expect. I was mostly satisfied, as I could play my bass reliant music and enjoy them immensely off the 407.

The bass presence was like a very refined dynamic headphone with the typical sub bass roll off, but unlike typical dynamics, it had highly refined upper bass.

This makes me really want the Omega 007 Mk IIs. I know the general consensus is the MK I is better, but I like bass emphasis, and I think an estat with bass emphasis is probably what I'd consider my own personal endgame. That would surely curb my upgraditis, as there wouldn't be anything better than that as far as bass emphasized cans go.


----------



## autoteleology

> That would surely curb my upgraditis, as there wouldn't be anything better than that as far as bass emphasized cans go.


 
   
  That is, until you buy a $30,000 DAC, a Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and then spend a hundred dollars changing the potentiometer with a resistor because it caused distortion.

 I wish I was joking, but I saw a thread recently about exactly that.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I find that to be less important than a jump from one headphone to another, as long as the source/amp is at least decent. Of course, improvements are to be expected, but so far from all I've heard, differences aren't as huge as people make them out to be. I prefer focusing on headphones.

I want the 007 MK2. That is my endgame. I don't want the 009 (brightness is the last thing I want now, no matter how refined). I prefer musicality over neutrality, and it seems that as far as estats go, the 007 MK 2 is like the perfect middle ground for me.

I, of course can't afford them whatsoever, let alone an amp to power them. I'd look into the 323S pairing with it, as long as it can drive it loud enough. All the other amps are too expensive for me. I'm sure it wouldn't sound like crap off it, though of course people here would steer me to paying double the cost of the 323S to "make them sing". Yeah, pay for me and I might.

I do realize this is the high end forum, lol, so much of what I say is blasphemy, but my main interest in this forum is for the headphones, not the equipment attached to it. I think I'd be very happy using my Compass 2's internal DAC (or selling it and getting another ODAC as my source using the rest of the money to fund for a 323S) with and an SRM-323S and the 007 MK 2 for now until I could afford more money for a more fleshed out amp. 

Considering that I hear the 007 MK2 is a natural upgrade from the LCD2 (which I own and love and would be willing to part with to get the 007 MK2), I think that is my future upgrade route...maybe.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> I find that to be less important than a jump from one headphone to another, as long as the source/amp is at least decent. Of course, improvements are to be expected, but so far from all I've heard, differences aren't as huge as people make them out to be. I prefer focusing on headphones.
> 
> I want the 007 MK2. That is my endgame. I don't want the 009 (brightness is the last thing I want now, no matter how refined). I prefer musicality over neutrality, and it seems that as far as estats go, the 007 MK 2 is like the perfect middle ground for me.
> 
> ...


 
  These hardly look like "bright" headphones:
   
  http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR009SZ91278.pdf
   
  No treble peaks like say the HE-6s or HD800s. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No harshness to my ears, but there is more treble energy than the SR-007s or the LCD-2/LCD-3 (but I find them a bit on the darker side and the SR-009s bang on IMO).


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

Well, I'm sure they are true to the recording. I do prefer a little more musicality and warm colorations overall though.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> Well, I'm sure they are true to the recording. I do prefer a little more musicality and warm colorations overall though.


 
  I find the SR-009s very musical (and damn revealing at the same time). I find the HD800s colder and brighter (in comparison). If you're going for the SR-007s, I'd strongly recommend finding a good pair of MKIs.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I find the SR-009s very musical (and damn revealing at the same time). I find the HD800s colder and brighter (in comparison). If you're going for the SR-007s, I'd strongly recommend finding a good pair of MKIs.


 
  Someone here was selling them not long ago w/ his SRM-717. He was iffy on selling, but I'm not sure if he's still selling them. The mk I went for $1800 and the 717 for $1k :> Think he's waiting to try an sr-009 next to them.


----------



## DefQon

Think it's gone.


----------



## K_19

That was me and I've decided to keep them for the time being, the main reason being I want to compare them to 009's side by side when I get them in a few months.
   
  There's been quite a few MK1's as well as 717's I've been seeing on the FS forums recently though.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> No treble peaks like say the HE-6s or HD800s.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I agree but for one factor: listening fatigue. The extra treble energy you mention can tire me out after a few hours of listening to the 009 (& HD800s, though neither are as bad as the K701), whereas the 007s allow me to listen indefinitely. That's not to say that the 009s aren't neutral and spectacularly enticing. In fact if you dare venture into the realm of EQ you can easily compensate for tonal tastes while maintaining a clean and detailed sound.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

All I know is that the mid bass hump of the MK2 sounds more appealing to me and my preference for EDM, than a straight linear frequency. So I'd still be more interested in the newer 007s.


----------



## jaycalgary

This time I traveled on a plane with my 009 setup. My 009's hate traveling. They sound far more odd than any other Stax I have after traveling. I use a Pelican case and am hoping that they air seal on the case is not doing bad thing like putting bad pressure on the drivers when the case moves in travel. It has been a couple days and one driver seemed a little down  with treble and bass. It has been over an hour listening and trying setup adjustments to get the sound right. I just heard something happen with the driver that seemed off. It was like a very soft type pop where the sound seems to have restored itself. 
  Edit. It is now the next day and I am thinking it may be from wax build up in the ear. They don't sound bright at all and if anything they sound a bit dull to me. Probably should get my ears looked at when I have a chance


----------



## DefQon

Let it burn in for a while.


----------



## n3rdling

Dunno how far you're flying, but could be humidity change


----------



## gilency

In flight cabin pressure is the equivalent of about 7000 feet, give or take. And the humidity tends to be in the dry side. 
I am not sure I see a reason why flying would interfere with the stators.


----------



## arnaud

This may sound counter-intuitive, but I actually found some slightly trebly recordings easier to listen to on the 009 vs the 007mk2 SZ3 (out of 727 stock amp at mild volume levels) because the latter, even though warmer, also happened to have more accentuated resonances in the mid highs than the 009 (the 009 is clearer but very well damped /controlled) which were quite excited by the particular recording (these were some of my first comparisons of 007mk2 and 009 right during the launch).

I recently compared 007mk1 and mk2 SZ3 measurements and it would seem to confirm what I hear: the O2mk1 is much smoother overall / better damped than the recent offerings to the point of making it dull sounding out of stock 727 amp, yet supremely forgiving of harsh recordings ( more so than the mk2 SZ3 imo).

As was pointed out by MH, there is a difference between generally brighter than most voicing (clearly a traight of the 009) and resonance artifacts (such as the 6-7kHz peak for unmodded HD800, or the wild zoo that is a typical ultrasone can in the mid highs). I find the 009 easier to listen to in such case (although I understand the comment from anetode about listening fatigue if you were to listen levels a bit higher than "normal").


----------



## Michgelsen

I figure the headphones should be resistant to air pressure changes in planes. After all, how many of them are sent by air mail each year with nothing happening? Could your ears be at fault from the flight maybe?


----------



## milosz

I understand that Justin is now shipping his own special mod of the SR-009, which is made completely from aluminum alloy!  It has a frequency response from DC to the 80 meter amateur radio band, incredible 0.0000% distortion and perfect transient response!  The first customer, a fellow in Southern California, called their performance "arresting!"  After receiving the special SR-009's, he won't be able to listen to anything else for years!
   
  See Tyll's comments regarding these novel Stax products:  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/busted


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This may sound counter-intuitive, but I actually found some slightly trebly recordings easier to listen to on the 009 vs the 007mk2 SZ3 (out of 727 stock amp at mild volume levels) because the latter, even though warmer, also happened to have more accentuated resonances in the mid highs than the 009 (the 009 is clearer but very well damped /controlled) which were quite excited by the particular recording (these were some of my first comparisons of 007mk2 and 009 right during the launch).
> 
> I recently compared 007mk1 and mk2 SZ3 measurements and it would seem to confirm what I hear: the O2mk1 is much smoother overall / better damped than the recent offerings to the point of making it dull sounding out of stock 727 amp, yet supremely forgiving of harsh recordings ( more so than the mk2 SZ3 imo).
> 
> As was pointed out by MH, there is a difference between generally brighter than most voicing (clearly a traight of the 009) and resonance artifacts (such as the 6-7kHz peak for unmodded HD800, or the wild zoo that is a typical ultrasone can in the mid highs). I find the 009 easier to listen to in such case (although I understand the comment from anetode about listening fatigue if you were to listen levels a bit higher than "normal").


 
   
   
  It is true, there is a "brightness" of the headphone 007 mk2 SZ3 with a peak résonnance to 8 and 10 KHz that does not exist with the 009.
  With the combi RKV-WEE and the 009, the system is very tolerant to the hard enregistrements in treble, better than the system SRM 727 + 007 mk2 (SZ3)
   
  Eric


----------



## wink

Quote:milosz 





> I understand that Justin is now shipping his own special mod of the SR-009, which is made completely from aluminum alloy!  It has a frequency response from DC to the 80 meter amateur radio band, incredible 0.0000% distortion and perfect transient response!  The first customer, a fellow in Southern California, called their performance "arresting!"  After receiving the special SR-009's, he won't be able to listen to anything else for years!
> 
> See Tyll's comments regarding these novel Stax products:  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/busted


 
  Too true.
   
  I just hope he doesn't have to send me one.
   
  I'm not captivated by the thought of it's exclusivity...


----------



## autoteleology

Well played, milosz.
   
  In other news, I get my SRD-X in a few days. Do you think it will be able to stack up sonically with my previous SRM-Xh, or will it be a step down? I've read that energizers give up some detail in exchange for more bass, is that true as well? Keep in mind that I only have an SR-303, which isn't that hard to drive relative to other Stax.


----------



## rgs9200m

Brightness is a strange animal. Somehow, bad brightness is a form of distortion that is painful and fatiguing,
  while a headphone that has very evident and extended treble that is done well is refreshing and can be the best aspect of the phones,
  making them so compelling and addictive it takes over my whole concentration.
  This is what I hear with my Stax 009s.
   
  I have heard "bad brightness" with many different dynamic phone/amp combos in the past that I sold because of this problem.
  The 009s actually sound like the treble is more extended and present than the "bad brightness" phones, but it is a good thing, not a bad thing.
   
  In fact, I always considered myself brightness-averse, but the 009s changed that, and made me see what a valuable thing clean, clear, natural highs could be,
  and that's why I really love my 009s and can listen for hours with zero pain and they draw me in to the music unbelievably. (I just use a humble 007t amp).
  I used to have SR007 Mk 1s (with the same amp) and did not find them anywhere near as compelling as the 009s in any way.
  Just my 2 cents here.
   
  [edited for grammar only -rgs]


----------



## spritzer

The HE60's are bright but smooth, the SR-009 have a glare that some of us find very annoying.  SR-007Mk2 (SZ3) has it as well and the 507.  Now if you listen to a lot of classical then this is a smaller issue due to the heavy compression used on most recordings. 
   
  Shipping electrostatics is always tricky.  Rapid temperature and humidity changes are problematic as they affect the sensitive relationship between the resistive coating and the large metal stators.  The only exception to this is the HE60.  Just took this earlier today:
   

   
  Only two pieces, both fiber reinforced plastic and almost no metal used.  The gold is all conductive paint.


----------



## rgs9200m

Just subjective of course, but I listen to popular/rock music all from a digital source (an EMM cdp), and I hate glare, and I don't hear glare from my 009s.
  I sure heard glare from my Denon 7000, Beyer T1s, and others.


----------



## Argybargy

I don't hear any treble glare with my new 507s through a NOS DAC and SRM 600 Ltd. Supposedly NOS DACs roll off the treble, but I upsample to 96khz through Fidelia and this is supposed to compensate for the lack of treble sparkle.
Right now after 178 hours, the 507s sound balanced and mildly warm. After making a few fit adjustments the bass has tightened up some.
I actually wish it had a brighter, dryer sound, but still a keeper nonethless.


----------



## MohawkUS

tus-chan said:


> Well played, milosz.
> 
> In other news, I get my SRD-X in a few days. Do you think it will be able to stack up sonically with my previous SRM-Xh, or will it be a step down? I've read that energizers give up some detail in exchange for more bass, is that true as well? Keep in mind that I only have an SR-303, which isn't that hard to drive relative to other Stax.




Sort of. Comparing the T1 to my SRD-6SB the energizer is more in your face and has more treble and bass energy. The T1 is warmer, more detailed(and nuanced), and more liquid/smooth. Personally I prefer the energizer as I felt the T1 was too lacking in the treble and bass. Of course the energizer sounds completely different depending on what amp is behind it so I'm not sure that's much help. I've heard it sound mushy and slow from a Pioneer SX780 and thin and bright from a Sherwood S7210A. Currently I'm running it through a Sherwood S6000(Same guts as the S8800)


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Brightness is a strange animal. Somehow, bad brightness is a form of distortion that is painful and fatiguing,
> while a headphone that has very evident and extended treble that is done well is refreshing and can be the best aspect of the phones,
> making them so compelling and addictive it takes over my whole concentration.
> This is what I hear with my Stax 009s.
> ...


 
   
   
  Thanks for the post, this is the way I hear the 009 as well and have been curious about the MKI in comparison. Have you ever heard the 4070? From what I have read (not much) they have been described as sounding in-between the 007/9.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Thanks for the post, this is the way I hear the 009 as well and have been curious about the MKI in comparison. Have you ever heard the 4070? From what I have read (not much) they have been described as sounding in-between the 007/9.


 
  That might rather be the SROmega although that is somewhat different to them as well. But the 4070 is something else again.


----------



## anetode

I can see that for many tastes the 009 may come off as being on the brighter side and am inclined to believe that the glare is an issue of frequency response rather than resonance or hd. Luckily, as arnaud mentioned, their effortless clarity allows for terrific low-volume listening which goes a long way to mitigate the onset of listening fatigue. They're extremely fun at loud volumes as well, but there the neutrality might give way to a (minor shrillness). At times they require a companion foil for alternate listening conditions.
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> Thanks for the post, this is the way I hear the 009 as well and have been curious about the MKI in comparison. Have you ever heard the 4070? From what I have read (not much) they have been described as sounding in-between the 007/9.


 
  I've grown to quite like the 4070 though they lack "refinement", in the conservative sense of that buzzword.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Brightness is a strange animal. Somehow, bad brightness is a form of distortion that is painful and fatiguing,
> while a headphone that has very evident and extended treble that is done well is refreshing and can be the best aspect of the phones,
> making them so compelling and addictive it takes over my whole concentration.
> This is what I hear with my Stax 009s.
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> Thanks for the post, this is the way I hear the 009 as well and have been curious about the MKI in comparison. Have you ever heard the 4070? From what I have read (not much) they have been described as sounding in-between the 007/9.


 
   
  That's the way I hear it too. The HD800s (or the T1s more so) can become fatiguing on brighter recordings, but I've never had that happen with my SR-009s. I've had them for 7 months now and they still don't stop to leave me awestruck by what I hear.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> This time I traveled on a plane with my 009 setup. My 009's hate traveling. They sound far more odd than any other Stax I have after traveling. I use a Pelican case and am hoping that they air seal on the case is not doing bad thing like putting bad pressure on the drivers when the case moves in travel. It has been a couple days and one driver seemed a little down  with treble and bass. It has been over an hour listening and trying setup adjustments to get the sound right. I just heard something happen with the driver that seemed off. It was like a very soft type pop where the sound seems to have restored itself.
> Edit. It is now the next day and I am thinking it may be from wax build up in the ear. They don't sound bright at all and if anything they sound a bit dull to me. Probably should get my ears looked at when I have a chance


 
    Air travel and even some car travel may change your hearing especially if you have any inflamation of the eustachian tubes or are prone to nasal allergies.  Years ago I decided there was no point in trying to assess  any system within a day or so of getting off a plane unless you were sure your hearing had returned to normal.  
   
      A delicate subject but I use an earwax removal kit from the drugstore about every 4 months and am often surprised how much difference this makes to the sound of headphones.  This also helps avoid trapping water in the ear when swimming.  Excessive ear wax can also give balance problems which was my first exposure to the need to keep ears clear of wax.


----------



## DefQon

Anybody wanna buy a HE90?
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251266510576?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1431.l2649


----------



## Nemeske88

For a postage cost AU $ 144? NO WAY!


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I like how the HE90 is conveniently being sold for the cost of the SR009.


----------



## AnakChan

nemeske88 said:


> For a postage cost AU $ 144? NO WAY!


If a fair chunk of the shipping is in insurance, it may not be so bad.


----------



## CDPlayer

Seller has 0 feedback. Hmm.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> I like how the HE90 is conveniently being sold for the cost of the SR009.


 
  It's not being sold as of yet as the auction is still ongoing and the SR-009 can be had for less than $4k imported from Japan.
   
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Seller has 0 feedback. Hmm.


 
  Yeah exactly. I put down my bid earlier today but retracted it as soon as I looked at the sellers trade ratings. 0 feedback and who's to say those pictures aren't ripped off from the internet.


----------



## spritzer

One thing to note is the Sennheiser logo on the box.  That means it's not one of the later units and a HE90 without an amp is very rare indeed.  Ask the seller to lift up the right side of the hadband to reveal the serial number...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


>





> Ask the seller to lift up the right side of the hadband to reveal the serial number...


 
  Good point.


----------



## astrostar59

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *rgs9200m* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Brightness is a strange animal. Somehow, bad brightness is a form of distortion that is painful and fatiguing,
> while a headphone that has very evident and extended treble that is done well is refreshing and can be the best aspect of the phones,
> ...


 
   
  Hmm, I can't exactly compare the 009s to my 007 Mk2.5s, but I would say I have VERY few CD rips that irritate me at all. It might be as I am using a tubed NOS DAC (Audio Note 3.1)
  with a tubed pre amp, then into a Stax SRM-717. Not sure. BUT I am getting a sound that is very detailed into the highest registers, no fatigue and killer bass, plus vocal and piano in that awesome tubed midrange. I am thinking, aside from the sonic character of the 007s (dark, deep and fairly forgiving) to the 009s (very linear, detailed and microscopic) the front end source is having such a big effect?
   
  At this level of SQ it is going to show up weak links and irritating details like nothing else. In fact I would say Stax headphones are so sensitive to the subtle micro sonics that get lost in a slower, more damped 3 way speaker set up, that the front end becomes the major focus of audio success after you buy your Stax set. And for the 009s which are easier to drive than the 007s, I would say look at your DAC!
   
  I would recommend NOS tubed DACs as a great clean, smooth and edge free source for those CDs. I was bored / irritated before I tried NOS DACs, and my Stax were gathering dust....


----------



## spritzer

All but a select few NOS dac's are very rolled off in the top end plus all the other issues (mostly to do with the output stages).  I had some for fun back in the day but I really fail to see the point of having some of the most revealing transducers in the world only to couple them with less than revealing sources.


----------



## astrostar59

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All but a select few NOS dac's are very rolled off in the top end plus all the other issues (mostly to do with the output stages).  I had some for fun back in the day but I really fail to see the point of having some of the most revealing transducers in the world only to couple them with less than revealing sources.


 
  Sorry Spritzer, I don't agree here. Having had top of the line Meridian and Naim OS DACs and then 2 NOS Audio Note DACS, the treble detail is as good, as extended and as detailed in the NOS DACs. And if we are saying here tubes roll of the treble? Then there are many amps and output stages that don't do that at all.
   
  Also you do know Audio Note DACs DON'T use a brickwall filter at 20k or whatever, to take out the so called 'harmfull' sonic shadows. The removal of this filter is another step IMHO and in listening test, that takes 44.1 to another level, as well as NOS. Remember why the manufacturers built OS in the first place, to take out the sonic shadow, and to do that, they HAD to upsample to built a cheap and acceptable filter.
   
  In digital you can't create new resolution from a set value, or information that is not already there. I accept 96 or 192 material from good masters is better than RedBook, that is another subject. What I am saying is OS blurs the sonic, and ruins the treble in particular.
   
  The other thing I have found, is I prefer R2R type chips in my DACs, (ladder type). It justs sounds better. Delta Sigma sounds steeely, more hi-fi, just plain false. I encourage others out their to go against the masses, don't believe the big manufacturers, and listen to a good NOS DAC with R2R chip set and no filter. I can listen to 96 material on my DAC, so I don't miss the Delta Sigma OS capabilities.


----------



## spritzer

Upsampling started because Phillips had designed 14bit dac's which was the original CD standard.  With no time to make new chips they upsampled instead.  Arguably a far better ploy than what Sony did back in the day.  It is essential with delta/sigmas to decrease the error rate.  Saying that OS messes up the treble is simply not true though, that's like saying analog has higher resolution than Red Book.  In fact, how could OS do that as it is just a fixed multiplier? 
   
  Plenty of DAC's that don't brickwall, in fact many high end dacs play with the brickwall and offer different slopes.  Removing it all together is a bad idea though and substituting for it with passive components is even worse.  That could be just me though as I believe in proper engineering, not hocus-pokus BS.  It's also nice to leave part tolerances out of the equation for unit to unit consistency. 
   
  Completely agree that R2R's are superior and the only reason they are all but gone is cost, nothing else.  Even better are non chip based R2R arrays when properly implemented.


----------



## MohawkUS

astrostar59 said:


> Sorry Spritzer, I don't agree here. Having had top of the line Meridian and Naim OS DACs and then 2 NOS Audio Note DACS, the treble detail is as good, as extended and as detailed in the NOS DACs. And if we are saying here tubes roll of the treble? Then there are many amps and output stages that don't do that at all.
> 
> Also you do know Audio Note DACs DON'T use a brickwall filter at 20k or whatever, to take out the so called 'harmfull' sonic shadows. The removal of this filter is another step IMHO and in listening test, that takes 44.1 to another level, as well as NOS. Remember why the manufacturers built OS in the first place, to take out the sonic shadow, and to do that, they HAD to upsample to built a cheap and acceptable filter.
> 
> ...




I agree. When it comes to DACs simplicity is key. That's why I got an Ultra-fi NOS DAC. Only one input, one output, and one frequency(44.1 only). I don't feel that it lacks anything with my STAX, it's endgame for me.  Of course if you are using high-res content it's not really an option.


----------



## DefQon

TDA1543


----------



## spritzer

The 1541 is a far better chip but the PCM1702 was an utter game changer.  These are left in the dust though by the dCS Ring DAC and the MSB units.  
   
  As for simplicity, few parts are not the key to reach that.  The SRM-T2 is one of the most simple amps out there yet has the highest parts count of any headphone amp... ever.  Not that opamps won't out do it in actual parts used...


----------



## Veamoth

I'm looking at a SRM-T1S, but its coming from Japan so theres a sticker on the back that says "100V ONLY". Is there an internal switch to make it 120V or am I going to have to convert it manually?


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





defqon said:


> TDA1543


 
   
  Check out the treble roll off this guy measures.  10khz -0.5db and drops steeply from there.
  I upsample to 96khz with my 4xTDA1543 DACs and don't hear the roll off. 
  When talking about these issues, the poster should mention his age.  At 41, I'm sure I'm not hearing the same treble I did when I was 21.
   
http://archimago.blogspot.com/2013/02/measurements-muse-mini-tda1543x4-nos-dac.html


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





veamoth said:


> I'm looking at a SRM-T1S, but its coming from Japan so theres a sticker on the back that says "100V ONLY". Is there an internal switch to make it 120V or am I going to have to convert it manually?


 
  If you are looking at the same one I was looking at bundled with the 404 sig's. Those one's don't have a switch for 117,100, 240v operations the transformer inside is only 100v but I recall remembering KG and spritzer posting a picture while ago that some T1S do have a universal voltage bandai tranny in the circuit hard wired for only 100v with no voltage switch at the back but you can rewire it internally. I could be wrong.


----------



## Veamoth

Yeah thats the one I'm talking about.
  And what about a 100-120V step up transformer?


----------



## DefQon

A step-up transformer will the safest and best route to go.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> If you are looking at the same one I was looking at bundled with the 404 sig's. Those one's don't have a switch for 117,100, 240v operations the transformer inside is only 100v but I recall remembering KG and spritzer posting a picture while ago that some T1S do have a universal voltage bandai tranny in the circuit hard wired for only 100v with no voltage switch at the back but you can rewire it internally. I could be wrong.


 
   
  All T1's have a voltage switch inside the amps except the very early ones.  Just remove the bottom cover to access it.


----------



## DefQon

Well no inside circuitry pics. Just these:


----------



## soren_brix

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Upsampling started because Phillips had designed 14bit dac's which was the original CD standard.  With no time to make new chips they upsampled instead.  Arguably a far better ploy than what Sony did back in the day.  It is essential with delta/sigmas to decrease the error rate.  Saying that OS messes up the treble is simply not true though, that's like saying analog has higher resolution than Red Book.  In fact, how could OS do that as it is just a fixed multiplier?
> 
> Plenty of DAC's that don't brickwall, in fact many high end dacs play with the brickwall and offer different slopes.  Removing it all together is a bad idea though and substituting for it with passive components is even worse.  That could be just me though as I believe in proper engineering, not hocus-pokus BS.  It's also nice to leave part tolerances out of the equation for unit to unit consistency.
> 
> Completely agree that R2R's are superior and the only reason they are all but gone is cost, nothing else.  Even better are non chip based R2R arrays when properly implemented.


 
  I might be wrong here, but my understanding is that upsampling have nothing to do with bit depth?
  Upsampling done by Philips back in those days is functioning much like a brickwall thus only requiring a lesser order low pass in the ouput in order to get rid of the Nyqvist image alias'; is that a misunderstanding?
  
  As for OS messing up the treble, the poster might refere to the brickwall'ing causing artifacts in time domain?


----------



## milosz

Spritzer,  have you ever heard any of the Audio-GD PCM1704UK  DACs?  (i.e., Master 7, Ref 5.32)


----------



## thinker

Quote: 





thinker said:


> Head Amp three ratings with different phones with thinkers ears
> 100 =is best wich i have heard and behind me are probably the best amps
> Stax Lambda series headphones 92/100  nice but not best
> Stax Omega  85/100 too weak to get sonic bliss airy without punch
> ...


 
  Coming back with this the ESH section OTL mode, it has developed through burn in process a lot (10 tubes), compared yesterday Head amp three with other Stax driver units the Head amp three plays now above all of them even with Omega series(very natural airy neutral).You get with Head amp three an amp wich plays on the highest level with all kinds of headphones.There is also an option on the back panel connectors wich are not in use but when other electrostatics appear (i hope Hifiman) the dummy connectors can be activated.I would say this amp is worth every penny.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Well no inside circuitry pics. Just these:


 

 Just pop the bottom cover and you'll find the voltage switch.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





soren_brix said:


> I might be wrong here, but my understanding is that upsampling have nothing to do with bit depth?
> Upsampling done by Philips back in those days is functioning much like a brickwall thus only requiring a lesser order low pass in the ouput in order to get rid of the Nyqvist image alias'; is that a misunderstanding?
> 
> As for OS messing up the treble, the poster might refere to the brickwall'ing causing artifacts in time domain?


 
   
  It's still 14bit but the over sampling and noise shaping created a digital feedback loop making the 14bit dacs perform better than the 16bit units Sony had. 
   
  I think it has more to do with the massive roll off after 10K with most NOS dacs. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Spritzer,  have you ever heard any of the Audio-GD PCM1704UK  DACs?  (i.e., Master 7, Ref 5.32)


 
   
  I wrote them off due to excessive fanboy BS back in the day but I'd still like to try one.  Kevin has one of their preamps and he likes it a lot. 
   
  Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> Just pop the bottom cover and you'll find the voltage switch.


 
   
  Yup, underneath that 100V only sticker are all the voltages silk screened.


----------



## Veamoth

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> All T1's have a voltage switch inside the amps except the very early ones.  Just remove the bottom cover to access it.


 

 Alright thank you!


----------



## rgs9200m

Just to comment on the DAC discussion above (with spritzer and astrostar), just subjectively, the character of the front end digital source
  does come through loud and clear with my 007t/009 system using an EMM XDS1 cdp. The unforced detail and texture and the ability 
  to see into each musical object is pretty startling and has great emotional impact.
  Maybe spritzer has some technical insight into the EMM (or any other very high end DAC's or player's) digital processing value and it's impact in a Stax system.
  I'd be grateful to hear any comments on this.


----------



## spritzer

Never been impressed by EMM players, either from a technical or a sonic standpoint.  His call to fame comes from the Museatex stuff, some of which was good but the rest was quite bad.


----------



## rgs9200m

OK, thanks Spritzer.


----------



## astrostar59

Quote from Spritzer: 





> Upsampling started because Phillips had designed 14bit dac's which was the original CD standard.  With no time to make new chips they upsampled instead.  Arguably a far better ploy than what Sony did back in the day.  It is essential with delta/sigmas to decrease the error rate.  Saying that OS messes up the treble is simply not true though, that's like saying analog has higher resolution than Red Book.  In fact, how could OS do that as it is just a fixed multiplier?
> 
> Plenty of DAC's that don't brickwall, in fact many high end dacs play with the brickwall and offer different slopes.  Removing it all together is a bad idea though and substituting for it with passive components is even worse.  That could be just me though as I believe in proper engineering, not hocus-pokus BS.  It's also nice to leave part tolerances out of the equation for unit to unit consistency.


 
   
   
Quote from Wikipedia:


> There was a long debate over the use of 14-bit (Philips) or 16-bit (Sony) quantization, and 44,056 or 44,100 samples/s (Sony) or approximately 44,000 samples/s (Philips). When the Sony/Philips task force designed the Compact Disc, Philips had already developed a 14-bit D/A converter (DAC), but Sony insisted on 16-bit. In the end, 16 bits and 44.1 kilosamples per second prevailed. Philips found a way to produce 16-bit quality using its 14-bit DAC by using four times oversampling.


 
The reason Philips oversampled was they had already designed an early 14 bit DAC, as you say, BUT this does not prove that the Sony DAC of 16 bits was below par to the Philips, and is probably the opposite in actual fact. All this does not have anything to do at all with Delta-Sigma chips and errors. The oversampling architecture (OS) was created by manufacturers to be able to design an effective HF filter at 20k-22.5k range that was 'deemed' required to block out sonic wave shadows are artifacts measured on oscilloscopes but in the upper human hearing range. This filter implementation has been proved by many leading DAC manufactures as false and not required, and lead to reduced sound quality proved in exhaustive listening tests as apposed to measurements. It is quite incredible how after 25 years or more of CD and the oversampling architecture of mainstream DACs, that manufacturers are finally listening to the SQ they actually hear, as apposed to a wave read out.
   
On Oversampling affecting the sound quality, many owners and reviewers prefer the Perfectwave DAC with OS tuned off, as do many owners of the Esoteric K-01. There is a change in the sound in those machines when changing the OS rates, so clearly it DOES affect the sound. We all used to think digital is digital, a copy is perfect, speaker cables are just wire etc etc. Time and again it isn't Many reports show upsampled digital is not bit perfect, and in real time, and then down sampled back to 16 bit? Errors, blurring, it all affects the SQ. I use the comparison of a 72 ppi image - upsampled to 288 ppi, then downsampled back to 72 ppi. Compare it with your original, and the OS image is not as sharp or as clean.
   
*On Oversampling there are three camps*
   
  First camp stick to OS and think it sounds best.
 Second camp have found NOS and maybe not sure how it works, but love the SQ and stay with it.
 Third camp is those who have climbed halfway up the mountain, and decided to stop, and say they know it all, and slate NOS DAC designs without hearing any or many of the better ones out there. 
  I am in camp 2. I nearly left CD for good as I was so fed up with the digital sound and 'hi-fi' presentation. I am so glad I listened to NOS tubed DACs.
   
So, I must say it again, NOS DACs do NOT reduce the high frequency of RedBook. In fact, NOS DACs with the Brickwall filter removed should do the opposite? Also Tubed DACs do NOT guarantee soft sound quality or 'tubey' presentation. Some of the best audiophile amps available are tubed designs. Or is the BHSE crap now?
   
And finally, please guys, lets try some NOS DACs and make our minds up with quality experience preferably in your own system. It could be a revelation to you?


----------



## DefQon

Spritzer thinks pretty highly of the BHSE amp. That said isn't redbook pretty much going extinct now, along with the sacd format?


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> So, I must say it again, NOS DACs do NOT reduce the high frequency of RedBook. In fact, NOS DACs with the Brickwall filter removed should do the opposite? Also Tubed DACs do NOT guarantee soft sound quality or 'tubey' presentation. Some of the best audiophile amps available are tubed designs. Or is the BHSE crap now?
> 
> And finally, please guys, lets try some NOS DACs and make our minds up with quality experience preferably in your own system. It could be a revelation to you?


 
   
  NOS DACs that I've seen have a very slow roll-off filter.  I'm of the opinion that most issues people have with oversampling DACs aren't due to the oversampling so much as other aspects of digital conversion starting with the digital input. I do think that some music can sound glorious with a good NOS DAC though.


----------



## Tachikoma

I've been thinking about transformers a little bit, Stax probably parallels a ~5000 ohm resistor with the transformers to keep the load somewhere between 8-20 ohms, but most people here report that the SRD-7 box sounds better when the speaker terminals are wired directly to the transformers, therefore bypassing said parallel resistor.
   
  Assuming that an E-stat represents a totally capacitive load, the impedance is 1/(2*pi*frequency*capacitance). Given the 90pF capacitance of the O2, and a turns ratio of 1:25, and the load would be something like 140K ohm at 20Hz, 272 ohm at 10kHz and 141 ohm at 20kHz. So does this imply that most amplifiers don't really mind driving relatively high impedances? and the parallel resistor is unnecessary?
   
  Edit: Herpa derp, I think I can answer this one myself. The resistor is in parallel with the headphones, not the primaries. Durrrr.


----------



## spritzer

The primary resistors were there to make it less demanding on the amps but remember, this is a design from the 60's.  We've had power to burn since the late 70's... 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Spritzer thinks pretty highly of the BHSE amp. That said isn't redbook pretty much going extinct now, along with the sacd format?


 
   
  16bit/44.1K is still the gold standard and DSD is alive and well. 
   
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> NOS DACs that I've seen have a very slow roll-off filter.  I'm of the opinion that most issues people have with oversampling DACs aren't due to the oversampling so much as other aspects of digital conversion starting with the digital input. I do think that some music can sound glorious with a good NOS DAC though.


 
   
  That's pretty much it, oversampling is a scapegoat and nothing more.  Similar to blaming the edgy nature of the SR-009 on the silver plated cable...


----------



## grokit

Entry-level Stax for $99.99 shipped, all you need is a speaker amp pumping music.
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-30-Earspeaker-/281095939717?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item41729fa685
   
  What's the catch?


----------



## rgs9200m

Spritzer, maybe I missed it in my forum searches, but what is your impression of the BHSE/009 combo? Any brief comments are welcome sir.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Also you do know Audio Note DACs DON'T use a brickwall filter at 20k or whatever, to take out the so called 'harmfull' sonic shadows. The removal of this filter is another step IMHO and in listening test, that takes 44.1 to another level, as well as NOS. Remember why the manufacturers built OS in the first place, to take out the sonic shadow, and to do that, they HAD to upsample to built a cheap and acceptable filter.
> 
> In digital you can't create new resolution from a set value, or information that is not already there. I accept 96 or 192 material from good masters is better than RedBook, that is another subject. What I am saying is OS blurs the sonic, and ruins the treble in particular.
> 
> The other thing I have found, is I prefer R2R type chips in my DACs, (ladder type). It justs sounds better. Delta Sigma sounds steeely, more hi-fi, just plain false. I encourage others out their to go against the masses, don't believe the big manufacturers, and listen to a good NOS DAC with R2R chip set and no filter. I can listen to 96 material on my DAC, so I don't miss the Delta Sigma OS capabilities.


 
   
  Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> The oversampling architecture (OS) was created by manufacturers to be able to design an effective HF filter at 20k-22.5k range that was 'deemed' required to block out sonic wave shadows are artifacts measured on oscilloscopes but in the upper human hearing range. This filter implementation has been proved by many leading DAC manufactures as false and not required, and lead to reduced sound quality proved in exhaustive listening tests as apposed to measurements. It is quite incredible how after 25 years or more of CD and the oversampling architecture of mainstream DACs, that manufacturers are finally listening to the SQ they actually hear, as apposed to a wave read ou
> 
> On Oversampling affecting the sound quality, many owners and reviewers prefer the Perfectwave DAC with OS tuned off, as do many owners of the Esoteric K-01. There is a change in the sound in those machines when changing the OS rates, so clearly it DOES affect the sound. We all used to think digital is digital, a copy is perfect, speaker cables are just wire etc etc. Time and again it isn't Many reports show upsampled digital is not bit perfect, and in real time, and then down sampled back to 16 bit? Errors, blurring, it all affects the SQ. I use the comparison of a 72 ppi image - upsampled to 288 ppi, then downsampled back to 72 ppi. Compare it with your original, and the OS image is not as sharp or as clean.


 
   
  There's no smiley for what I'm feeling right now. It's like someone combined the accuracy of wikipedia with the consistency of forum-derived knowledge.
   
  At the very least I am glad that you've found a rig you can appreciate and a rationale that makes sense to you.


----------



## autoteleology

> There is a change in the sound in those machines when changing the OS rates, so clearly it DOES affect the sound.


 
   
  Wow, you really know that the machine changes the sound when it changes the sound. Nice circular logic.


----------



## soren_brix

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> The reason Philips oversampled was they had already designed an early 14 bit DAC, as you say, BUT this does not prove that the Sony DAC of 16 bits was below par to the Philips, and is probably the opposite in actual fact. All this does not have anything to do at all with Delta-Sigma chips and errors. The oversampling architecture (OS) was created by manufacturers to be able to design an effective HF filter at 20k-22.5k range that was 'deemed' required to block out sonic wave shadows are artifacts measured on oscilloscopes but in the upper human hearing range. This filter implementation has been proved by many leading DAC manufactures as false and not required, and lead to reduced sound quality proved in exhaustive listening tests as apposed to measurements. It is quite incredible how after 25 years or more of CD and the oversampling architecture of mainstream DACs, that manufacturers are finally listening to the SQ they actually hear, as apposed to a wave read out.
> 
> On Oversampling affecting the sound quality, many owners and reviewers prefer the Perfectwave DAC with OS tuned off, as do many owners of the Esoteric K-01. There is a change in the sound in those machines when changing the OS rates, so clearly it DOES affect the sound. We all used to think digital is digital, a copy is perfect, speaker cables are just wire etc etc. Time and again it isn't Many reports show upsampled digital is not bit perfect, and in real time, and then down sampled back to 16 bit? Errors, blurring, it all affects the SQ. I use the comparison of a 72 ppi image - upsampled to 288 ppi, then downsampled back to 72 ppi. Compare it with your original, and the OS image is not as sharp or as clean.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I may have misunderstood this post, but as far as I know there are no relation between sample rate and bit depth.
  In rgrds to the Philips first CD player using the 1540 a 14bit DAC ... Philips claimed that the use of 2nd order noise shaping reultet in a liniarity better than the 16bit from japan ...as far as I know it has nothing to do with OS.
   
  OS and brickwall is not to my knowledge linked either, although it is often used in combination to construct the digital signal at a higher sample rate.
  Over-sampling and up-sampling is not excatly the same although mathematically similar; as far as I know you can upsample/downsample to any samplerate, although might loose accuracy during the conversion - oversampling is upsamiling at integer multiplyer x2, x4, x8, ... to my knowledge the oversampled signal contains the original samples and additional samples calculated by interpolation algorithms have been added in between the originals (I guess downsampling would result in a loss of accuracy although there should still be a chance that the original stream is there when the rest has been stripped  To my knowledge oversampling is only used at the output before conversion take place, where upsampling usually takes place somewhere close to the input.
  Finally, the filter you are talking in the first paragraph of your comment sounds like the reconstrunction filter, is that really considered unnecessary? or are you talking about the brickwall filter?
   
  Rgrd BHSE ....might be that the combination of tubes and electrostatic transducer is a match made in heaven both being high voltage low current ....driving conventional speakers by tubes involves a transformer which greatly affect the sound


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Entry-level Stax for $99.99 shipped, all you need is a speaker amp pumping music.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-30-Earspeaker-/281095939717?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item41729fa685
> 
> What's the catch?


 
  They are old school low-end Stax known as "electrets".
  The (lower) bias voltage is "built in" to the pre-charged transducer diaphram.
  No bias power supply is needed.
  One issue these may have is that over time they can lose their bias charge, the result is channel imbalance.
  I bought an unopened NOS SR-34 setup last year for s&g's, it definitely has the Stax sound, albeit rolled off at both extremes.
  Sounds decent but nothing on par with the newer pro bias models.


----------



## grokit

Thanks for the info *livewire*.


----------



## autoteleology

I just got a new energizer that accepts Pro as well as Normal-bias Stax... any normal bias electrets/electrostats I should look out for?


----------



## MohawkUS

tus-chan said:


> I just got a new energizer that accepts Pro as well as Normal-bias Stax... any normal bias electrets/electrostats I should look out for?




I may be letting my SR-5NBs go in the near future. The mafia may put a hit out on me for saying this, but I've kinda been missing dynamics as of late. I'm going to be doing some A/Bing with a Beyer T90 and keeping the winner over the next week. Anyway beyond the SR-5s you should keep an eye out for SR-X MK3s and Sigmas. You could also probably snag a good deal on a pair of SR-3s. They generally go for about $100 on the bay.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I just got a new energizer that accepts Pro as well as Normal-bias Stax... any normal bias electrets/electrostats I should look out for?


 
  SR-30 or the baby Lambda SR-80 electrets as I find them to be of decent value depending on the sellers asking price. They are newer and have more bass than the SR-40's. There is an auction going on ebay now for 2 SR-3 + adapter auction though. If you search on the German ebay domain, there is an SR-5NB with SRD-6 energizer auction at a start price of 198 euros excl shipping.
   
  There are two normal bias headphones that I like myself and looking out for is the original Lamda's and Sigma's. 
   
  Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> I may be letting my SR-5NBs go in the near future. The mafia may put a hit out on me for saying this, but I've kinda been missing dynamics as of late. I'm going to be doing some A/Bing with a Beyer T90 and keeping the winner over the next week. Anyway beyond the SR-5s you should keep an eye out for SR-X MK3s and Sigmas. You could also probably snag a good deal on a pair of SR-3s. They generally go for about $100 on the bay.


 
  Imo, the T90 is a failure.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> These hardly look like "bright" headphones:
> 
> http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/StaxSR009SZ91278.pdf
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I find the SR-009s very musical (and damn revealing at the same time). I find the HD800s colder and brighter (in comparison). If you're going for the SR-007s, I'd strongly recommend finding a good pair of MKIs.


 
   
  X2


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> I may be letting my SR-5NBs go in the near future. The mafia may put a hit out on me for saying this, but I've kinda been missing dynamics as of late. I'm going to be doing some A/Bing with a Beyer T90 and keeping the winner over the next week. Anyway beyond the SR-5s you should keep an eye out for SR-X MK3s and Sigmas. You could also probably snag a good deal on a pair of SR-3s. They generally go for about $100 on the bay.


 
  I would never sell my SR-5NB gold edition, which sound wonderful when properly amp'd or using an upgraded transformer (modded by Audiocats).  They are more balanced sounding than the old SR-3 or normal SR-5 that I previously owned, and even give my SR-Lambda a run for their money.  I picked them over the Grado RS-1 that I sold a while back and writing up the comparison.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I think it may have been dynamics that saw me let go of my pair, I don't remember. They were fantastic with the old jazz classics.


----------



## DefQon

What's this modded transfomer energizer box by audiocats? SRD-7?


----------



## autoteleology

> I may be letting my SR-5NBs go in the near future. The mafia may put a hit out on me for saying this, but I've kinda been missing dynamics as of late. I'm going to be doing some A/Bing with a Beyer T90 and keeping the winner over the next week. Anyway beyond the SR-5s you should keep an eye out for SR-X MK3s and Sigmas. You could also probably snag a good deal on a pair of SR-3s. They generally go for about $100 on the bay.


 
   


> SR-30 or the baby Lambda SR-80 electrets as I find them to be of decent value depending on the sellers asking price. They are newer and have more bass than the SR-40's. There is an auction going on ebay now for 2 SR-3 + adapter auction though. If you search on the German ebay domain, there is an SR-5NB with SRD-6 energizer auction at a start price of 198 euros excl shipping.
> 
> There are two normal bias headphones that I like myself and looking out for is the original Lamda's and Sigma's.


 
   
  Are there any bassy normal-bias Stax? I find bass to be something my SR-303 is lacking a little bit compared to when I was running it from my SRM-Xh.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Are there any bassy normal-bias Stax? I find bass to be something my SR-303 is lacking a little bit compared to when I was running it from my SRM-Xh.


 
  Yep, the Sigma although it might not produce the bass you are looking for and it needs plenty of power (works nicely with a speaker amp).


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Are there any bassy normal-bias Stax? I find bass to be something my SR-303 is lacking a little bit compared to when I was running it from my SRM-Xh.


 
  Not normal bias, but you will definitely like the Lambda Pro's if you want electrostatic sound with a bit more bass impact and dynamically sounding. That said the LP is probably the most dynamic and bassy stat you can get out of the Lambda frame series. They are fun sounding.


----------



## astrostar59

Quote: 





anetode said:


> There's no smiley for what I'm feeling right now. It's like someone combined the accuracy of wikipedia with the consistency of forum-derived knowledge.
> 
> At the very least I am glad that you've found a rig you can appreciate and a rationale that makes sense to you.


 
  Hi anetode
   
  I agree with you, I don't like quoting Wikipedia but had to as Spritzer was plucking facts about Philips and Sony back in the birth of CD standard RedBook, and making that an explanation as to why OS DACs are better than NOS DACs, along with the mis-information about ALL NOS DACs have limited HF response above 10k!
   
  I am talking from my own ears and experience. I don't talk about what other forum posters are saying or claiming to back up my own views. I have heard and had many OS DACs over the years, and expensive models from Meridian and Naim plus others. I have found the Audio Note NOS tubed DACs sound much more realistic and natural to me. I have also talked to Peter Q at shows, and understand his research and logic for not going OS route. The NOS route is for him the most direct and accurate signal from the 44.1 data of a CD keeping it in the 16 bit domain.
   
  On the Brickwall filter, the manufacturers struggled to make a good sounding and effective filter above 20k to the CD limit of 22.5k. That is why they were so keen on OS architecture, and also another reason why they opted for the cheaper to implement Delta Sigma chips as apposed to the superior sounding R2R chips. It also created a cool way for manufacturers to create an understandable reason for the public to buy the next x 2 or x 4 times or 8 x oversampling model each year.
   
  The Audio Note DACs DO NOT have a brickwall filter as digital or analogue. And they use Trans on the output (like the BHSE). I don't understand all the tech but I can hear the difference myself, it is real and exciting. I have finally found a DAC I can enjoy for hours, whereas before I was ready to abandon CD all together.
   
  I just wish more posters here would lis for themselves, then comment, not blow off with none facts and misleading info, it is bad for the hobby. BTW I noticed a recent big post on Computer Audio forum, about best DAC ever heard, and many are saying their NOS DACs are the best. It is great to know folk are going against the masses and trying these DACs out. It isn't easy, as most are tiny manufactures (Audio Note, Wavelength, MHT, 47 Labs) compared to the big guns flogging OS stuff.
   
  I understand there are folk who have spend major dollars on DACs over the years. I did as well. But I aint mad about that, it's history, just glad I have found NOS now.


----------



## autoteleology

There is a big difference between stating a preference and stating that one piece of equipment is objectively better than the other due to the technology. The former can be based on anything; the second needs to be based on hard, demonstrable, provable facts.

 Anecdotal evidence is virtually worthless because it's a sample size of one (imagine how credible a Gallup poll would be if they only interviewed one person!). In fact, using it over hard facts is a logical fallacy. It would also seem as though you're doing the reverse scientific method; making a conclusion and then finding "facts" to support it.

 I respect your opinion, but judging from what other posters have said, what you are saying doesn't really make a whole lot of sense.


----------



## astrostar59

Ok respect that. However, I don't respect none facts saying NOS DACs have massively reduced HF response, again that's none facts based on rumour by OS fans.
   
  Guess in a forum this is going to happen. Regular posters bat on about the same thing, and bring ego into it as well. I am saying listening and finding your own way is better. I am not how useful a forum like this is if many posters keep putting up none personally substantiated facts. I have put my finding up and offer those to others. And I have refuted none facts about NOS DACs based on my own ears.
   
  Job done for me. I leave this discussion for egos....


----------



## spritzer

I wouldn't call myself an OS fan, I just like things to be done correctly.  To make a counter point, the NOS fans remind me a lot of the people who swore by the Playstation as a source.  To the rest of us it sounded very rolled off, uneven and generally very lo-fi. 
   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Spritzer, maybe I missed it in my forum searches, but what is your impression of the BHSE/009 combo? Any brief comments are welcome sir.


 
   
  It's probably the best combo money can buy if you can deal with the SR-009 sound signature.  The amp takes no prisoners so it's pretty much wire with gain which is why I ultimately chose one of my many other headphones over the SR-009. 
   
  Having this amount of power on tap does do some wonderful things to almost every electrostatic transducer ever made.  
   
  Quote: 





soren_brix said:


> Rgrd BHSE ....might be that the combination of tubes and electrostatic transducer is a match made in heaven both being high voltage low current ....driving conventional speakers by tubes involves a transformer which greatly affect the sound


 
   
  There is indeed a reason, tubes are natural high voltage amplifiers plus they have vanishingly low capacitance and when driven CCS loaded in grounded grid configuration, very low distortion.


----------



## rgs9200m

Thanks yet again Spritzer for being generous with your advice.


----------



## MohawkUS

headphoneaddict said:


> I would never sell my SR-5NB gold edition, which sound wonderful when properly amp'd or using an upgraded transformer (modded by Audiocats).  They are more balanced sounding than the old SR-3 or normal SR-5 that I previously owned, and even give my SR-Lambda a run for their money.  I picked them over the Grado RS-1 that I sold a while back and writing up the comparison.




We'll have to see how it goes. At the moment I don't really feel comfortable keeping two expensive pairs of headphones around, but you know how this goes. The SR-5NBs are my favorite headphones so far, don't get me wrong, I found them vastly superior to my now sold Ultrasone PRO2900s. When I first got them(and for the next year) I was smitten with them, finally a headphone that sounds exciting but never harsh! They're the first 'high-end' headphone I've really enjoyed since my first Grado.

However I've noticed through the past few months that I've been listening to my music less and less. And then I started nitpicking. "soundstage too small" "lack of depth" "lack of bite/aggressiveness" And that's when I ended up coming back to head-fi and stumbling upon the most recent dynamics v stats thread. The SR-5s obviously beat any other headphone I've heard when it comes to detail, but I feel that this extra detail is a bit lost on the music I listen to. And the tradeoff for this detail is the connection I like to have with my music. These SR-5s(And the SR-Xs) are studio cans at heart. They don't put me in the music, they rather lay it out accurately in front of me. At first I thought this meant they were too 'sterile' so I picked up an SRM-t1 to fix that problem. But rather than getting closer to my ideal sound I got further away. The soundstage got more accurate(smaller) and the tonal balance got very warm. And the headphones lost what little dynamics 'bite' they had. Was the sound closer to source? Maybe, but I wasn't enjoying it.

I'm aware that many see the T90s as a complete failure; but generally I find myself disagreeing with many a review here. Hell, I found the HD598 much too warm when many people said it was too bright. And I found the Audio-Technica phones too congested when many people talk about their separation and soundstage. And the Burson amps, don't even get me started on those. Anyway, I predict that it will be a good fight and I hope you guys will be interested in reading about it. And I really hope the t90s don't turn out to be another PRO2900; which rendered most of my music unlistenable. 

edit: The T90s should be showing up later today.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> We'll have to see how it goes. At the moment I don't really feel comfortable keeping two expensive pairs of headphones around, but you know how this goes. The SR-5NBs are my favorite headphones so far, don't get me wrong, I found them vastly superior to my now sold Ultrasone PRO2900s. When I first got them(and for the next year) I was smitten with them, finally a headphone that sounds exciting but never harsh! They're the first 'high-end' headphone I've really enjoyed since my first Grado.
> 
> However I've noticed through the past few months that I've been listening to my music less and less. And then I started nitpicking. "soundstage too small" "lack of depth" "lack of bite/aggressiveness" And that's when I ended up coming back to head-fi and stumbling upon the most recent dynamics v stats thread. The SR-5s obviously beat any other headphone I've heard when it comes to detail, but I feel that this extra detail is a bit lost on the music I listen to. And the tradeoff for this detail is the connection I like to have with my music. These SR-5s(And the SR-Xs) are studio cans at heart. They don't put me in the music, they rather lay it out accurately in front of me. At first I thought this meant they were too 'sterile' so I picked up an SRM-t1 to fix that problem. But rather than getting closer to my ideal sound I got further away. The soundstage got more accurate(smaller) and the tonal balance got very warm. And the headphones lost what little dynamics 'bite' they had. Was the sound closer to source? Maybe, but I wasn't enjoying it.


 
   
  Good job on selling those, we all have missteps in the journey, but I think you are on the right track 
  That can also be a source characteristic (I am not familiar with your DAC) as I wouldn't call the SR5NB a sterile headphone, the SRX is much more like that but again it is highly dependent on what chain you are feeding the headphones with.
   
  I noticed the same when I tested the Mytek 192 against the Lavry, I could hardly believe the step up in resolution, openness, and transparency.
  And yet the Lavry seems to have just the right "house sound" if one likes to enjoy both detail and the music itself but I guess if I had the other I could compensate with other elements to achieve a similar result.
   
  I would love to comment on the Lambda vs SR5NB...but only after I get a backup pair of Lambdas


----------



## MohawkUS

My sources all fall toward the warm side of things. I've got the Ultra-Fi DAC41(follow up of the Tranquility SE NOS DAC), an old Tandberg cassette deck, and a SOTA turntable. It's a nice luxury having multiple sources like this. It allows you to pin down which colorations are coming from the source and which are coming from the amp/phones. As I said, sterile wasn't the right word to describe the headphones. The T1 definitely isn't a sterile amp but yet it got me further away from what I wanted. Maybe overly-dampened would be the right word? Now that I mention it my TT has the same coloration and that does seem the best word to describe it. I'm currently using a very tubey sounding Sherwood receiver; it might be worth pulling out my other Sherwood from storage for this comparison. That one(the S7210A) is much brighter, but unfortunately it lacks bass.

In all honestly I think the sound I'm describing now is what brought me to STAX in the first place. It's the etheral sound of them that makes them as smooth as they are; but on the other hand makes them light-weight in sound as well. It works well for many things, unfortunately metal vocals are not one of them.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I know it's not a Stax, but some might be interested in my 'review' of the ESP-950.

Damn, 'very great' just doesn't sound right.


*Koss ESP-950*



Normally sells between $700-$1000



Spoiler: Review



Before I begin, I want to thank forum member jazzerdave for being kind enough to loan these out to me. He didn't even ask for anything in return. Stand up guy. 

With my introduction to the electrostatic world via the SR-407 with SRM-252S amp, and it completely blowing me away sound-wise, I started looking to see what was sold new today for an affordable price range (head-fi affordable, not real world affordable, but I digress). The Koss ESP-950 immediately jumped out at me. Electrostatic headphone WITH an amp sometimes sold for less than $700? I HAD to check them out!

Koss is usually associated with headphones that are budget conscious, delivering great sound without breaking the bank. By now you guys probably know how much of a fanboy I am of the KSC-75 and KSC-35. I will always have at least one pair of Koss headphones in my lifetime. The Koss ESP-950 has been part of Koss's repertoire for a few decades, known for their incredibly linearity, well balanced, yet musical sound. The ESP-950 comes bundled with their E-90 electrostatic amp. It uses a proprietary headphone input, so it only works with the ESP-950. The great thing about Koss is that their well known Lifetime Warranty is also applicable here, so if for any reason these fail you, you can get them replaced/fixed by Koss directly. More companies should follow this type of business mindset. Standing behind their products for as long as you live!


*Build Quality*: Unfortunately, the build quality is without question, the worst build I have seen on a headphone costing more than $100. It literally feels like a $20 headphone to me. The internals could be made out of styrofoam, and I wouldn't doubt it.

Seriously, I don't know what it is, but electrostatic headphones seem to focus purely on sound quality, and not build or aesthetics (at least until you hit flagship level Stax headphones).

Starting with the cups, they seem to be the best area of the ESP-950's build. The grills look decent enough, and feel solid enough. It's all plastic, and not a very good feeling plastic at that. Seriously, it feels like this kind of plastic belongs on no name brand budget cans. The extension bars seem to be the only thing made out of metal, and yet, it still feels/looks a bit too thin for my personal taste. Unfortunately, the arms don't like to stay at the length you adjust them to, and I can almost guarantee that it will set itself a bit more loose than anyone may like. That is, unless you have a gargantuan head and wear these fully extended. The headband is made of some cheap feeling pleather that could stand to be a little more dense inside, but is ultimately quite comfortable, as the headphone is so light and loose, the headband feels like it practically just rests there.

The pads? Oh, the pads. They are made of incredibly cheap feeling pleather of the WORST kind. Seriously, pick out an extremely cheap over ear headphone, and I'm sure the pleather pads would be comparable to the ones on the ESP-950. Despite my absolute hate for these kinds of pads, they are actually not uncomfortable by any mean of the word. Due to how loose the ESP-950 clamps to the head, the pads don't really put much pressure on the skin, so it doesn't induce much if any sweat.

The cable is of the standard flat, ribbon-type cabling found on most if not all electrostatic headphones I have seen. This is a good thing. This basically guarantees no accidental tangling. It's a bit short of length, though it comes with an extension cable of decent length. Unless you sit right next to the amp, you're guaranteed to use the extension cable.

Now, I'm not sure if it's a build issue or just typical of electrostatics (didn't hear it on the SR-407), but the ESP-950 retains some static noise even if unpluged. You literally have to touch the contacts at the end of the cable to make the noise dissipate.


*Comfort*: As mentioned before, the ESP-950 is incredibly lightweight, and incredibly loose fitting (think AD700 type looseness). While the comfort overall is pretty good, the lack of secure fit makes it a little less pleasing than it should've been. The headband is very comfy, and the pleather pads, while of horrible quality, is a non-issue due to the loose fit.


*Accessories*: The ESP-950 comes in a very, very nice 'leather' bag, used to fit the headphone, the amp, a battery pack (without batteries) to allow the E-90 to be used on the go, a pair of RCA cables, and 3.5mm cables. If only they spent less time with accessories, and more time with the build quality of the headphone itself, but that's just a personal gripe.


*Isolation/Leakage*: As expected on open and electrostatic headphones, there is absolutely no isolation or passive noise cancelling. These are not to be used where noise control is important.


*Sound*: So to the meat of the review. As advertised, the ESP-950 is certainly a very linear, very balanced, and very well behaved headphone. These are among the flattest sounding headphones I have heard, where nothing really sticks out over anything else. The upper and lower ends are slightly rolled off, meaning there is no direct bass energy or treble sizzle. The sound as a whole was indeed quite neutral, with a hint of warmth. There is a very good sense of space and soundstage is decent, but not a stand out over what I've reviewed so far. The ESP-950 is soft sounding, a hint laid back, and polite overall. It's quite the contrast compared to the SR-407 which was quite fast, lively, energetic, and aggressive, while maintaing some amazing clarity and refinement. That's not to say the ESP-950 is muted or lacking in clarity. On the contrary. The ESP-950 is among the most detailed headphones I have ever heard. It's most evident during gaming, from what I experienced. The ESP-950 while not being the most musical headphone, is still very enjoyable. Not sterile/clinical, and not colored in any real way.


*Bass*: While the bass is slightly rolled off at the extreme lower end, it's not a steep roll off. With bass heavy music, the bass has a surprising amount of presence. It's a bit soft hitting and slow in the bass compared to the SR-407 which was very agile and punchy, but rolled off quite a bit faster. The ESP-950's bass overall is enjoyable and atmospheric, but doesn't bring immediate attention to itself. It could stand to gain a bit more speed and punch, but it doesn't 'sound' bass light by any means, just somewhat polite.


*Mids*: This is easily the biggest strength of the ESP-950. The slight warmth and linear frequency aside from the bass and treble roll off, ensures the mids are slightly forward and immediately engaging. Though not as sultry and intimate as the LCD2, it does have a similar organic tonal quality to it. Basically, voices sound very realistic/natural. If you have a lot of music that relies on vocals more than anything, the ESP-950 will not disappoint.


*Treble*: The treble is ever so slightly rolled off, but it's not veiled or muddy. It gives the ESP-950 a pleasing clarity to the upper range without any of the harshness found on headphones with more treble quantity. Among the most pleasant treble presentations I have heard. Not too rolled off, not too sparkly. It's in a good place. Trebleheads may want a clearer treble presentation, like that found on the SR-407 however. In this aspect alone, the ESP-950 takes on a more musical than realistic approach.


*Soundstage*: As previously mentioned, the soundstage while not being a stand out, is quite natural sounding in size. Depth isn't an exact strength, but there is an appreciable amount of width, with great instument separation.


*Positioning*: For gaming, the ESP-950 stepped it up with Dolby Headphone. The soundstage was a very good size, and while the depth still wasn't amazing, it was pretty easy to poinpoint directional cues. Space between direction cues was very good, allowing for no confusion or distractions. 


*Clarity*: Again, like the HD650 and LCD2, the ESP-950 is slightly on the warmer side of neutral, yet like the other two, clarity for gaming was very, very impressive. Actually, if the soundstage was larger, and depth was better, these may have been right up there with the AKG K70x's in terms of god mode inducing clarity and performance. If I had to rate the clarity for gaming alone, it'd be an easy 9.


*Amping*: A non-issue as the ESP-950 comes with it's own amp, though people do take the extension cable and mod it to allow the ESP-950 to be used with more robust Stax amps. In any case, the E-90 drives the ESP-950 quite decently based on what I'm hearing, though the amp's volume control is an absolute pain as each side has it's own independent volume control, so you'll have to match by ear. To get around having to constantly re-adjust with different sources, I set it once, and controlled the volume with my Compass-2 (used it as a pre-amp). In terms of gaming, Mixamp owners will probably want to set the volume once (on a high decibel level) and adjust volume with the Mixamp (or other DH devices). The E-90 is also not the quietest amp, with some very slight background noise that occurs randomly.


*Value*: The prices fluctuate wildly, but if you can score them near the $700 range, they are an incredible value. Electrostatic headphone, amp, bag, portable battery pack. All your bases are mostly covered. The build quality doesn't not compliment it's price, however.


*Final Impressions*: Those looking for an incredibly well balanced, linear, and neutral-ish headphone, may find the ESP-950 to be a serious contender for your money. The ESP-950 favors it's balance and faithful representation of sound over musicality, but it remains a fine bridge between the two. For gaming, it is among the best for competitive gaming with very few faults, and it's full sound makes it a very good headphone outside of non-competitive use.

Final Scores...



Fun: 7.75 (Very Good.) 

Competitive: 8.5 (Very Great) 

Comfort: 7 (Good. While it's incredibly lightweight, and very inoffensive, it just doesn't clamp enough. It's incredibly loose fitting, and there is no real secure 'seal' around the ears. )


----------



## anetode

astrostar59, I have no problem with your personal preferences for NOS. I was put off by some sloppy and incorrect characterizations of the underlying technology in your posts and overreacted. This has nothing to do with ego and I respect the years you've invested into this hobby. Please feel free to send a PM should you wish to discuss the finer points of digital audio.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





mohawkus said:


> My sources all fall toward the warm side of things. I've got the Ultra-Fi DAC41(follow up of the Tranquility SE NOS DAC), an old Tandberg cassette deck, and a SOTA turntable. It's a nice luxury having multiple sources like this. It allows you to pin down which colorations are coming from the source and which are coming from the amp/phones. As I said, sterile wasn't the right word to describe the headphones. The T1 definitely isn't a sterile amp but yet it got me further away from what I wanted. Maybe overly-dampened would be the right word? Now that I mention it my TT has the same coloration and that does seem the best word to describe it. I'm currently using a very tubey sounding Sherwood receiver; it might be worth pulling out my other Sherwood from storage for this comparison. That one(the S7210A) is much brighter, but unfortunately it lacks bass.
> 
> In all honestly I think the sound I'm describing now is what brought me to STAX in the first place. It's the etheral sound of them that makes them as smooth as they are; but on the other hand makes them light-weight in sound as well. It works well for many things, unfortunately metal vocals are not one of them.


 
  You could try a pair of normal bias Gammas, they are not damped like the Pro version so might be more to your liking. Even now they are still way too underrated headphones.


----------



## DefQon

padam said:


> You could try a pair of normal bias Gammas, they are not damped like the Pro version so might be more to your liking. Even now they are still way too underrated headphones.




Both extremely rare headphones as well the Sigma's as well in my opinion.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Both extremely rare headphones as well the Sigma's as well in my opinion.


 
  The SR-Gamma Pro is indeed quite rare now (as well as any Sigma) but I see a normal bias SR-Gamma from time to time.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





padam said:


> The SR-Gamma Pro is indeed quite rare now (as well as any Sigma) but I see a normal bias SR-Gamma from time to time.


 
  Yep, thankfully I found one in original NOS condition with it's box for $300. The Sigma NB does pop up from time to time as well as the NB Gamma, but the Pro bias versions are indeed quite rare. The very last time (besides mine) Gamma Pro went up for auction sold for $700 that was early last year.


----------



## MrViolin

stax man is selling one of his omegas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Hmmm... "stax epsilon" sounds nice.


----------



## MohawkUS

padam said:


> You could try a pair of normal bias Gammas, they are not damped like the Pro version so might be more to your liking. Even now they are still way too underrated headphones.




Thanks for the solution, maybe I'll try those out one day. I was actually watching one on ebay about a month back. I think it ended up going for around $150 which seems a great deal as it has the same drivers as the 5nb.

About the T90s. I really wasn't sure what to expect when I plugged them in, much to my surprise they sound much like the SR-5NBs. :eek: Bass, mid, and treble quantity is about the same between the two. Not quite as fast, but they've got a better decay and center image. At the moment I'm almost tempted to call them an improved SR-5. They have much the same tonal balance but sound more natural, have better weight, better separation, and detail retrieval. Timbre seems to come through better and with vocalists I am hearing it all(lungs,throat,body) rather than just the voice. Strangely they are less impactful and punchy than the SR-5s.(with the transformer box at least, about equal to it out of the T1). The SR-5 is noticeably more grainy though not in a negative way. The graininess has a way of making guitars more interesting to listen to.(Reminds me of Grado in that regard.) 

At the moment I'd call the dynamics the weak point of the T90, but my choice of amplifier could be to blame. With my vintage receivers I really can't go past 8 o'clock or it gets much too loud and the noise floor is quite high. The Sherwood S6000 in particular is known to perform quite poorly at low volumes(first gen solid state), still it manages to outperform the S7210A with both pairs of headphones. The T90s through the 7 series amp has the same downfalls of the STAX through either amp.

Just as I feared this isn't going to be an easy choice, and I'll likely end up keeping both. One main advantage of the STAX pair is that it performs well with the vintage receivers and t-box. The T90 really needs a good head-amp and the receivers are much too loud when cranked up to their sweet spot. The Sherwood S-7210A has a 40 step volume pot. The beyers are dead quiet at 1, a little quiet at 2, and rock concert levels at 3. The STAX I run between 15-25, a much more usable range on the knob. For comparison my portable phones, the AKG K81 as well as my old Ultrasones, were happy at the same volume levels as the STAX.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yep, thankfully I found one in original NOS condition with it's box for $300. The Sigma NB does pop up from time to time as well as the NB Gamma, but the Pro bias versions are indeed quite rare. The very last time (besides mine) Gamma Pro went up for auction sold for $700 that was early last year.


 
  I consider myself very, very lucky to have scored an excellent condition Sigma Pro for $700.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> I consider myself very, very lucky to have scored an excellent condition Sigma Pro for $700.


 
  $700 for a Sig Pro is a good deal. Considering the NB goes for around $650-800.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





padam said:


> The SR-Gamma Pro is indeed quite rare now (as well as any Sigma) but I see a normal bias SR-Gamma from time to time.


 
   
  Doesn't help that none ever survive a visit here.  They are all scrapped for parts...


----------



## Takeanidea

john buchanan said:


> I consider myself very, very lucky to have scored an excellent condition Sigma Pro for $700.




I am waiting for one to come up. Shippsupt had a pro on demo at the london meet and it was love at first sight. I have hd800's but these are the sound for me. 
There's an nb on sale on ebay currently and it's close to $2000 with import duties. I hope it doesn't sell because if it does people will start asking for silly prices.


----------



## rgs9200m

Is there any further news on the new amplifier Stax is supposedly working on?


----------



## jaycalgary

My Sigma Pro's almost look like they came out of a time capsule.


----------



## DefQon

Well there is a recent sale for the Sig Pro's from padam which looks to be sold just recently.


----------



## yawg

Double post.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> Hi anetode
> 
> I agree with you, I don't like quoting Wikipedia but had to as Spritzer was plucking facts about Philips and Sony back in the birth of CD standard RedBook, and making that an explanation as to why OS DACs are better than NOS DACs, along with the mis-information about ALL NOS DACs have limited HF response above 10k!
> 
> ...


 
   
 I also use an older tubed DAC, the Cayin DA-2 which I fitted with old German Siemens CCa's. I never found a better sounding DAC up to date and I like to listen to other people's systems to re-evaluate my own.
  
 Before I found my Cayin I tried a couple of other DACs, the second best I heard was the one in my CD-player, an Arcam CD-23 which uses the ring-DAC. Great resolution but the bass is too loose because Arcam uses a chip as line stage instead of a proper class A stage like Electrocompaniet (I also owned their ECD-1) or even better a tubed output.
  
 I found that the output stage is invariably more important than the converter chip. Even a very expensive Audio Note DAC didn't match my Cayin - that thang even had a counter to determine when it's tubes needed replacement.
  
 A good pair of Telefunken or Siemens/Halske E88CCs will work for up to 50.000 hours ...
  
 I tried to look up the make and model of the DAC-chip in my Cayin but after opening it found out the printing on the chip was scratched out. My technician was joking that Cayin wouldn't like me to realize they were using cheap components in their gear.


----------



## kkqewl

Quote: 





mad lust envy said:


> I know it's not a Stax, but some might be interested in my 'review' of the ESP-950.
> 
> Damn, 'very great' just doesn't sound right.
> 
> ...


 
  Hi,
   
   
  Do your self a favour and get a Stax T1 for your ESP-950, truly made a big difference in all areas for me. You will of course have to make or modify your existing cable but it's well worth it.
   
  My ESP-950 frequently exhibited the high pitched whine that many have experianced when partnered with the E-90 amp but since I made the move to the T1 that has stopped as well.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Doesn't help that none ever survive a visit here.  They are all scrapped for parts...


 

 I got one specifically for that purpose, but decided against it in the end. They are very light and are quite comfortable to wear in the summer.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I only borrowed the ESP950.


----------



## DefQon

Lambda Pro's with SRD-7SB adapter energizer $300 - 7 hours left on ebay auction...go..go..go
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281099360933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Lambda Pro's with SRD-7SB adapter energizer $300 - 7 hours left on ebay auction...go..go..go
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281099360933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


 
   
  So the buyer is supposed to use the Lambda pros on a SRD-7 with only normal bias plugs??? tried that and it sounds really, really crap


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> So the buyer is supposed to use the Lambda pros on a SRD-7 with only normal bias plugs??? tried that and it sounds really, really crap


 
  True, but at the prices the vintage Stax Lambda's go for on ebay, gon and the F/S section here, $300-350 for the combo is a good deal.


----------



## jjinh

Might go for more. Price is okay... suppose I dont need another pair of lambda pros so I'm good.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Might go for more. Price is okay... suppose I dont need another pair of lambda pros so I'm good.


 
   
  Yeah the last LP mint condition by itself sold for $450 after I told the seller that he/her asking price of $800 is a bit too much.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> I got one specifically for that purpose, but decided against it in the end. They are very light and are quite comfortable to wear in the summer.


 
   
  That's why I have the HE60 and HE90....


----------



## DefQon

How many HE90's do you have spritz?


----------



## spritzer

Just one but it is just a HE90 frame with a few different drivers that I can swap in and out.  Can't stand the Sennheiser drivers...


----------



## autoteleology

> [...] *a few different drivers that I can swap in and out*.


 
   
  Wut? How is this possible?


----------



## spritzer

Anything is possible if you know enough... or don't know enough to know something is impossible. 
   
  DIY drivers for the HE90 shell:
   

   
  Lambda Nova Signature drivers in the HE90 shell:


----------



## David1961

I think more photos should be shown on the audio equipment we have, whatever that gear is.


----------



## telecaster

I'm on the fence between 323 with 507 and 006 with 504, I know the lamba sound very dynamic to begin with thats why i am leaning toward 006/407. Anyone can share their thoughts? I don't want to go vintage route and much prefer new production. I am such a fan of the tube sound (clear as a bell, big layering and euphonics) Thanks a bunch.


----------



## Tachikoma

Hmmm.... I'm thinking of replacing the coupling cap on my SRM-T1 because it has been "singing along" to the signal, for quite some time now. How do I start though? I'm a total noob at DIY although I've been keen on starting for a while now. I can get all of the tools I need from the lab I work at.
   
  ^the SRM323s is supposed to be the best mid-range Stax amp available. You're going to have to listen to them yourself to be 100% sure that its for you, of course.


----------



## spritzer

There are no coupling caps in the SRM-T1 or any of these Stax amps.  They are all fully DC coupled.  Hasn't stopped people from swapping out the very good polyprop caps with V-caps or even silly stuff like the Jupiters with "tremendous results".


----------



## DefQon

spritz:
   
  I'm guessing the HE90 shell +headband would've cost more than $2k easy? I've seen some of the quotes people have gotten on the headband and it's extremely expensive.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There are no coupling caps in the SRM-T1 or any of these Stax amps.  They are all fully DC coupled.  Hasn't stopped people from swapping out the very good polyprop caps with V-caps or even silly stuff like the Jupiters with "tremendous results".


 

 Woops, for some reason I remember reading that the T1 is AC coupled. Do you have any other plausible explanations for the amp/tubes singing along like that?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kkqewl said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> Do your self a favour and get a Stax T1 for your ESP-950, truly made a big difference in all areas for me. You will of course have to make or modify your existing cable but it's well worth it.
> ...


 
   
   
  The E90 amp is GOOD, but the Stax SRM-T1  is WONDERFUL.  
   
  The SRM-1 MK II  is also very good on the ESP-950's, but I think the SRM-T1  is just a bit more "refined" sounding.
   
  And then when you get the SRM-T1,  you can find yourself a used pair of Lambdas or something, and then you'll have two electrostatic "flavors" to enjoy.  The ESP-950 and the various Stax models sound quite different, but they are all excellent.  There's just something REVEALING about electrostatic headphones.  They have smoothness along with detail resolution.  With highly-resolving dynamic phones like the Sennheiser HD800 there is an "edginess" that accompanies the detailed sound.
   
  Even the "etched" sound of the Stax Lambda Signatures has a smoothness to it. Their sonic detail is exaggerated, yet they don't sound harsh. There's just something about electrostatics, they have a great "hear-through" quality.


----------



## chinsettawong

What do you guys think about Stax SRM252A?  It sounds amazing with my DIY phones.  Being so small, taking it with you when you're traveling is easy.


----------



## shipsupt

It's turned out to be a great little amp for my office.  Keeps the desk tidy and sounds great!  
   
  I mostly use my 002's with it, but it's nice to be able to occasionally bring in another headphone to listen to.  I dragged the 4070's in recently to see how I liked having a little more isolation.  I actually prefer the more open 002 in the office.  
  Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> What do you guys think about Stax SRM252A?  It sounds amazing with my DIY phones.  Being so small, taking it with you when you're traveling is easy.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> I'm on the fence between 323 with 507 and 006 with 504, I know the lamba sound very dynamic to begin with thats why i am leaning toward 006/407. Anyone can share their thoughts? I don't want to go vintage route and much prefer new production. I am such a fan of the tube sound (clear as a bell, big layering and euphonics) Thanks a bunch.


 
   
  I guessed it's not interesting for people out here because the new lamba's got such a bad rap. But I just ordered the SR507 with the SRM006TS. I will gladly leave a lenghty review about it when I got it. I know technically the SS amp is better reguarded but I always love tube and I want multiple imput as well as XLR so hence my choice.
  The 323 looks cheap in comparaison, but that just look.
  For your information in France the SRS4170 is 2700€ for the kit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Flagged.
  Owner of a SR-5 + SRD-7/SB system (_millésime_ 1979)...soon SR-009 + SRM-727II 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Ali


----------



## nhs1

hi can anyone tell me how it's possible to hear my headphones when only connected to 1 xlr on my dac ( that's xlr to rca headphones being stax )


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> What do you guys think about Stax SRM252A?  It sounds amazing with my DIY phones.  Being so small, taking it with you when you're traveling is easy.


 
   
  I love mine! It sounds great for something so small.
  I use it with the Stax 407 along with the intended 202 cans.
  Just pure, clean music when used at moderate listening levels.
  I wonder how long it will run on a battery pack?


----------



## astrostar59

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There are no coupling caps in the SRM-T1 or any of these Stax amps.  They are all fully DC coupled.  Hasn't stopped people from swapping out the very good polyprop caps with V-caps or even silly stuff like the Jupiters with "tremendous results".


 
  Hi Spritzer
  Is there polyprop caps in the Stax SRM-717? If so, I might be keen to swop them out with V-Caps, as I have had great results with them in my other Speaker Amps and DAC.


----------



## spritzer

There are as local resevoir caps but why waste money on v-caps?  They are not in the signal path and there are much larger fires to put out. 
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> spritz:
> 
> I'm guessing the HE90 shell +headband would've cost more than $2k easy? I've seen some of the quotes people have gotten on the headband and it's extremely expensive.


 
   
  Quite a bit more than that and this is the last set of the HE90 shells. 
   
  Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> Woops, for some reason I remember reading that the T1 is AC coupled. Do you have any other plausible explanations for the amp/tubes singing along like that?


 
   
  Bad tubes?  Anode resistors failing and/or PSU resistors failing?


----------



## arnaud

ali-pacha said:


> Flagged.
> Owner of a SR-5 + SRD-7/SB system (_millésime_ 1979)...soon SR-009 + SRM-727II
> 
> 
> ...




 Congrats and welcome on this board!


----------



## autoteleology

> I wonder how long it will run on a battery pack?


 
   
  I would not advise attempting this. I blew my SRM-Xh trying to pull that off.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Then you hooked it up wrong. I have been using a 12v sla for
Over ten years


----------



## pkshan

Spritzer is right,  no need to use V-cap , the difference is not that large,
   
  The electrolytic capacitors, resistors & internal wiring  are more important (and cost less than V-cap too)
   
  Here is my modded T1S, sound is extreme good when paired with Lambdas. 
  the stock stax tube amps sound dry,harsh,compressed & veiled in comparison.


----------



## autoteleology

> Then you hooked it up wrong. I have been using a 12v sla for
> Over ten years


 
   
  Exactly how does one connect a DC cable to a 12V battery incorrectly? Is that even possible?


----------



## grokit

Speaking of compact little Stax amps, what's the story on the SRD-X? It seems like a cute little package, with line-level inputs and normal and high bias output jacks.
   
  edit:


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Exactly how does one connect a DC cable to a 12V battery incorrectly? Is that even possible?


 
  If it has a interchangeable tips and you reversed the polarity. Done a few times and have blown wall warts due to that reason.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Bad tubes?  Anode resistors failing and/or PSU resistors failing?


 
   
  I found the same problem with different sets of tubes, so I don't think that's really it... plus the Shuguang tubes were practically new when I noticed the issue. Shouldn't the amp stop working by now if I've blown a resistor? I've been searching diyaudio for a while and found a couple cases of a "singing amp", but I think the problem in those cases were the caps.


----------



## autoteleology

grokit said:


> Speaking of compact little Stax amps, what's the story on the SRD-X? It seems like a cute little package, with line-level inputs and normal and high bias output jacks.


 
   
  Mmmm, I have one currently and it's a nice piece of work. Drains batteries like the dickens though (can somehow go through 40,000 mAh of current (unless my batteries are rated incorrectly) in about 25 hours of listening time).
   
  It's a pretty decent step up from my SRM-Xh, which I think is great for an energizer.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> grokit said:
> 
> 
> > Speaking of compact little Stax amps, what's the story on the SRD-X? It seems like a cute little package, with line-level inputs and normal and high bias output jacks.
> ...


 
   
   
  Ah thanks. I noticed one on the Bay with a wall-wart, 100v to 12v 44ma. Didn't know about the battery packs.
   
  Looks like a good little setup for the Lambda Pro. I'm sure it sounds better off batteries but I do happen to have a very good 12v power supply.


----------



## n3rdling

I'm selling pretty much the same thing


----------



## autoteleology

I really wish my SRD-X had a line-in on the front like the SRD-P. Using the RCA-in in the back is a pain in the arse when you're walking around (had to cut a hole in a bag).
   


> Didn't know about the battery packs.


 
   
  It's not battery packs, but just (_just! _






) 8 C batteries. That's the big draw of the SRD-P and SRD-X; they can use batteries on the fly by design as opposed to by jerry-rig.


----------



## grokit

Well I can't buy anything right now because I have to spring for a new cable for my newly-acquired 009. It's going to cost me more than what I could sell my newly-restored lambda pro for. My cat attacked it. At least I think it was the cat. It could have been one of the dogs. But I'm pretty sure it was the cat.
   
  If I could be positive I think I would strangle him with it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  So I am very glad I got a USA model, although Stax USA doesn't know how much it will be yet as this will be their first 009 cable replacement. They do know that it will be significantly more expensive than an 007 cable, as the 009 cable is clad in silver. And the 007 cable is around $400. Before labor! A Lambda cable in comparison is $70, so the 009 cable will likely cost 10x as much. Again, before labor.
   
  I was _just starting_ to get my head around having these headphones. More like surrendering to them. They are so much more capable than anything I have heard to date, and at first I wasn't sure I wanted to go the rest of the way with them. You know, where they ruin you for all other head-borne transducers and you proceed to liquidate everything and rebuild around your _new precious._ Maybe like some of you, I should trade down to an 007 instead. At least then I could keep my system as it is, and still be able to listen to the rest of my headphones. The 009 has a way of making everything else sound bad...
   
  When I discovered the damage, I was coming off a long day where I felt like I had really accomplished something for once. I was tired, but in a good mood and thought I would top it off with a listen to my new2me superduper headphones. So much for the good mood!
   
  Maybe the cat was jealous. Maybe I should take it as an omen. All I know at this point is that I have at least a month to think about it, and I am starting to re-appreciate my LCD2 rev.1


----------



## DefQon

Expensive. +1 on the idea of strangling your cat with the broken cable.


----------



## grokit

It will be in its box or on my head at all times after it returns, that's for sure.
   
  edit: the headphones, not the cat. But come to think about it...


----------



## KingStyles

> It will be in its box or on my head at all times after it returns, that's for sure.



What if you fall asleep while it is on your head......


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Well I can't buy anything right now because I have to spring for a new cable for my newly-acquired 009. It's going to cost me more than what I could sell my newly-restored lambda pro for. My cat attacked it. At least I think it was the cat. It could have been one of the dogs. But I'm pretty sure it was the cat.
> 
> If I could be positive I think I would strangle him with it


 
  Ouch. That's why I got my cats a D7000 to play with rather than the stats.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





kingstyles said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  As long as he doesn't start his mating ritual I should be okay.
   
   
  Quote: 





anetode said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I tried that! The D7K is bedside where he can have at it, but evidently my cat has more refined taste...
   
  Either that or he knows that it's good to have the dogs around to share possible blame, as they can't get to the bedroom


----------



## gilency

Call me paranoid, but I keep mine in its wooden box when not over my ears


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Call me paranoid, but I keep mine in its wooden box when not over my ears


 
  That is the only way it is supposed to be when predators are on the loose.


----------



## autoteleology

It could be worse; you could have gotten ants in it.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> I found the same problem with different sets of tubes, so I don't think that's really it... plus the Shuguang tubes were practically new when I noticed the issue. Shouldn't the amp stop working by now if I've blown a resistor? I've been searching diyaudio for a while and found a couple cases of a "singing amp", but I think the problem in those cases were the caps.


 
   
  Shuguang 6CG7's?  I don't think they ever made any of those. 
   
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> Speaking of compact little Stax amps, what's the story on the SRD-X? It seems like a cute little package, with line-level inputs and normal and high bias output jacks.
> 
> edit:


 
   
  It's just a couple of 80's automotive chip amps (read cheap 80's car stereo) tied to step up transformers.  It's ok for its intended use but high end it is not.  I think I have one of these incoming (can't remember half the crap I buy) so if that is the case I'll post some pics of the circuitry.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> It could be worse; you could have gotten ants in it.


 
   
  Yes that's what I was thinking. Still the monetary impact in my case is greater. But the time impact and overall grossness was less.


----------



## singh

First Ants and now cat/dogs , Nature dosnt want SR009 to exist.
  Maybe sr009 defy the laws of nature ... looks at graphs and measurements... hmm


----------



## grokit

I must confess, I was so pissed that I actually dangled the cat by (the base of) his tail, while waving the broken cable in his face and scolding him, in full view of the dogs.
   
  Little *&#@$% didn't mind a bit. He's a pretty tough cat with impeccable taste in cables and a good sense of humor--just my luck.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





grokit said:


> I must confess, I was so pissed that I actually dangled the cat by (the base of) his tail, while waving the broken cable in his face and scolding him, in full view of the dogs.
> 
> Little *&#@$% didn't mind a bit. He's a pretty tough cat with impeccable taste in cables and a good sense of humor--just my luck.


 

 Definitely good taste in cables.


----------



## shipsupt

You need to put him up on one of these sites: http://shameyourpet.com/category/cats/
   
  "I ate my humans STAX 009 cable and I'd do it again..."
   
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> I must confess, I was so pissed that I actually dangled the cat by (the base of) his tail, while waving the broken cable in his face and scolding him, in full view of the dogs.
> 
> Little *&#@$% didn't mind a bit. He's a pretty tough cat with impeccable taste in cables and a good sense of humor--just my luck.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> You need to put him up on one of these sites: http://shameyourpet.com/category/cats/
> 
> "I ate my humans STAX 009 cable and I'd do it again..."


 
   
  Lol, maybe I will!
   
  He looks just like Meko (2nd one down), except he's not fat.


----------



## DefQon

LOL haha. Grokit vs his cat round 1...Fight!


----------



## khaine1711

I recall this is the third time. I remember his cat chewed his He-6 twice I think


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> I recall this is the third time. I remember his cat chewed his He-6 twice I think


 
  Damnnn


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

I love cats, but I couldn't own one in fear of it chewing through my millions of gadget cables.


----------



## DefQon

Yeah at least it's not as bad as when I let my pug into the house, the little smug rammed my desktop down with a few of the headphone jacks plugged in broken in half. I don't dare mess with my pug like Grokit did to his cat though.


----------



## Mad Lust Envy

That's.....evil.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Shuguang 6CG7's?  I don't think they ever made any of those.


 
  CV-181-Z (or 6SN7) adapted to 6CG7 pins.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





defqon said:


> LOL haha. Grokit vs his cat round 1...Fight!


 
  Quote: 





khaine1711 said:


> I recall this is the third time. I remember his cat chewed his He-6 twice I think


 
   
  It's probably round two with the cat... the first time was indeed with the HE6 stock cable, no harm no foul because it was eventually replaced with a warranty exchange of the headphones. The second time was also with the HE6, but could have been one of the dogs... and I'm pretty sure I know which one. The second HE6 cable was aftermarket, a DHC Molecule that was wrapped in fabric sheathing...Peter was very nice about helping me out with it, but it still sucked big time.
   
  As far as I can tell the cat isn't attracted to the cables with sheathing on them, he likes the plastic/vinyl type of insulation. The dogs OTOH aren't as particular... I have patched more than a few USB cables in my time but they took it to a new level with that 2nd HE6 cable. But with the 009 the cat is now firmly in the lead... Mitigation measures are now in place.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Mitigation measures are now in place.


 
  LOL. Get some "firewalls" installed to prevent unauthorised access to them 009's next time.


----------



## telecaster

I am looking to modifya soon to arrive new unit 100V SRM006TS to 220V. In this thread page 985, post 147262, Plinden said he just had to resolder the missing wire and to jumper the board. Is it the same procedure as the 323 voltage mod? I can't seem to find the answer for the tube amp 006ts.
  Here is his shot of his transformer

   
  I don't have the amp yet, but the few shots of its guts didn't show this kind of transformer 0_o


----------



## spritzer

Turns out I got two SRD-X Pro's, color me surprised.  Anyway, here is what it looks like on the inside:
   

   
  Two of those modules with a switching PSU to generate the bias voltage (the tiny transformer is between the output transformers) in the middle make up the amp.  The output is then fed to the transformers on the right which step up the voltage.  They are nice enough and it would be cool to put that large battery bay to some good use. 
   
  I must say though that I'm more impressed by this rare piece of Stax history:
   

   
  It is rather nice.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> CV-181-Z (or 6SN7) adapted to 6CG7 pins.


 
   
  That would be my first source of problems, either the tubes or the adapters.  I also see very little sense is using regular GT 6SN7's in that amp, they are even worse than the 6CG7.  You need GTA's or GTB's with their better voltage handling.


----------



## Tachikoma

The Shuguangs have the same voltage handling specs as the GTA/GTB, so there's no real problem there. I noticed the same problem with another set of GTBs anyway.
   
  I'll give the regular 6CG7s another go to see if that makes a difference. I still don't understand why an adapted tube would "sing" like that, what could possibly cause that?
   
  Heh, I do remember seeing an SRA-14S on YJ a few weeks back. Is it any better than the SRM-1mk2? I remember Snake gushing about it once upon a time.


----------



## shipsupt

Nice.  Is that new to you?  Do you have the phono cartridge for it?  Very cool.
  Quote: 





> I must say though that I'm more impressed by this rare piece of Stax history:
> 
> 
> 
> It is rather nice.


----------



## schorsch

Hello Spritzer,
   
  is it possible to use the SRA 14S with the ED-1 equalizer. Or am I only too stupid to get the right combination. I would like to ask for some help, because my main sources are phono and tuner and I want to use my ED-1 with these sources.
   
  Regards Georg
   
  PS: Have you the card for the CP-Y pickup? I'm really looking for that one) (I can swap any other card!)


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Hello all,
   
  rather new down there...I've a question on my SR-X Mk-III.
  My father bought this one with an SR-5 and an SR-7/SB adapter (in 1979).
  These two work nice (even if there are one or two cracks in the white plastic of the SR-5), but I have a problem with the SR-X Mk-III : at low-level, the sound is crackling (both cans, but not symmetric), and these interferences / crackles are modified by touching the cable.
   
  I've opened the cans, obviously it looks like this :
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/images/8/8d/Stax_SR-XMk3_driver.jpg
  Main difference : I have a kind of big black cap beetween yellow and green connector.
   
  Last but not least, the very thin vinyl / faux-leather covering the earpads is gone, only a smooth cotton-like surface covering the foam is remaining.
  Exactly like this one : http://kenrockwell.com/audio/stax/images/sr-x-mark-3/D3S_5002-0600.jpg
   
  Any idea where the crackles do come from ? Should I try to get this headphone re-cabled ? Or are the drivers dead ?
   
  Thanks.
   
  Ali


----------



## Tachikoma

Carefully open up the drivers, if the membrane inside is in one piece go ahead and recable them. You can use a chopped up extension cable for this.


----------



## autoteleology




----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


>


 
  Sweet rig!!


----------



## DefQon

If I was a bypassing pedastrian and saw you wearing those Lambda's I would laugh.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





defqon said:


> If I was a bypassing pedastrian and saw you wearing those Lambda's I would laugh.


 
  I'd actually think of him being from the 20th century being anachronistic.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mrviolin said:


> I'd actually think of him being from the 20th century being anachronistic.


 
  This too.


----------



## gilency

SR-009 + KGSSHV = Heaven


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





gilency said:


> SR-009 + KGSSHV = Heaven


 
  Every time I see that amp's name, I always think that it's something Russian... what's the acronym mean?


----------



## DefQon

Kevin Gilmores Super Sexy High Voltage amplifier.


----------



## justin w.

or solid state


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





justin w. said:


> or solid state


 
  This too^


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Kevin Gilmores Super Sexy High Voltage amplifier.


 
  At first, I thought this was real and was going to question you and praise the name. That is- until I saw this:
   



justin w. said:


> or solid state


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Sweet rig!!


 
   
  Agreed, off the grid!


----------



## DefQon

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-aycjInKEM
   
  For Tuschan


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> The Shuguangs have the same voltage handling specs as the GTA/GTB, so there's no real problem there. I noticed the same problem with another set of GTBs anyway.
> 
> I'll give the regular 6CG7s another go to see if that makes a difference. I still don't understand why an adapted tube would "sing" like that, what could possibly cause that?
> 
> Heh, I do remember seeing an SRA-14S on YJ a few weeks back. Is it any better than the SRM-1mk2? I remember Snake gushing about it once upon a time.


 
   
  I've never seen them being referred to being GTB's, just GT's. 
   
  The adapter could have some parts inside (many of them do) or the wires could cause oscillations.  It's a long shot though...
   
  Has this amp ever been refurbished? 
   
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Nice.  Is that new to you?  Do you have the phono cartridge for it?  Very cool.


 
   
  I just got it and it's serial number 0002.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  It came with the EMM-1 module so moving magnet but I haven't tested it yet.  
   
  It shares some similarities to the SRM-1 Mk2 but it's also very different.  This one needs to be refurbished though before I draw any conclusions about it. 
   
  Quote: 





schorsch said:


> Hello Spritzer,
> 
> is it possible to use the SRA 14S with the ED-1 equalizer. Or am I only too stupid to get the right combination. I would like to ask for some help, because my main sources are phono and tuner and I want to use my ED-1 with these sources.
> 
> ...


 
   
  You should be able to use the ED-1 in the tape loop and listen to it there.  Rec should go to input and play would be the output.  Then you go from "source" to either one of the tape loops on the lower line of switches and it should work.  Might have to play with the IS controls a bit though as I'm not sure if they are active with the headphone output.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





defqon said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-aycjInKEM
> 
> For Tuschan


 
  LOL, the girls were like, get away from us weirdo!!!


----------



## DefQon

hehe


----------



## Clsmooth391

I'm looking at getting either the SR-007 mk1 or mk2. I had read that they were both really forgiving of badly recorded tracks but then came across a post where someone said that the mk2 was the most unforgiving headphone he has heard. Can anyone shed some further light please.


----------



## Tachikoma

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I've never seen them being referred to being GTB's, just GT's.
> 
> The adapter could have some parts inside (many of them do) or the wires could cause oscillations.  It's a long shot though...
> 
> Has this amp ever been refurbished?


 
   
  Probably because there's the perception among audiophiles that GTA/GTB variants sound worse than regular GTs. I doubt that it has been refurbished, wasn't during my ownership anyway.
   


clsmooth391 said:


> I'm looking at getting either the SR-007 mk1 or mk2. I had read that they were both really forgiving of badly recorded tracks but then came across a post where someone said that the mk2 was the most unforgiving headphone he has heard. Can anyone shed some further light please.


   
  The SR-007mk1 is easily the most laid back headphone in my collection of electrostats, the mk2 is really the same headphone but with a little port that breaks the seal between the pads and the ears.


----------



## deadlylover

clsmooth391 said:


> I'm looking at getting either the SR-007 mk1 or mk2. I had read that they were both really forgiving of badly recorded tracks but then came across a post where someone said that the mk2 was the most unforgiving headphone he has heard. Can anyone shed some further light please.


 
   
  I have an early 007A port modded powered by a KGSSHV, and they're great for badly recorded stuff. I should know, I _only _listen to badly recorded music.


----------



## Clsmooth391

deadlylover said:


> I have an early 007A port modded powered by a KGSSHV, and they're great for badly recorded stuff. I should know, I _only_ listen to badly recorded music.




Thank you (tachikoma too). Have a pair of mk2s offered to me. If they are driven by a decent amp like the KGSS, BHSE OR WES, are they still decent without the modding? Worried about damaging the mk2 by trying to mod them.


----------



## deadlylover

clsmooth391 said:


> Thank you (tachikoma too). Have a pair of mk2s offered to me. If they are driven by a decent amp like the KGSS, BHSE OR WES, are they still decent without the modding? Worried about damaging the mk2 by trying to mod them.


 
   
  There might be a small mid bass hump, you may still like them. I did the modding because the bass hump sometimes got in the way of the vocals for the stuff I listen to.
   
  The mod is reversible, you can do the easy version like I did, you only have to take off the earpads to do it;


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> There might be a small mid bass hump, you may still like them. I did the modding because the bass hump sometimes got in the way of the vocals for the stuff I listen to.
> 
> The mod is reversible, you can do the easy version like I did, you only have to take off the earpads to do it;


 
   
   
  Wow, didn't know there was an easier mod. How much of the hump does it get rid off and do you have a link to a thread for this mod? Thank you again, this really helps sway me towards the mk2s.


----------



## Tachikoma

The port mod turns it into an MK1, which has no midbass hump.


----------



## DefQon

Had time to recap gotta love the blue


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> Carefully open up the drivers, if the membrane inside is in one piece go ahead and recable them. You can use a chopped up extension cable for this.


 
  Thanks. The membrane is in one piece on both sides, I'll try to recable it..
   
  Ali


----------



## dantesvictus

For sr-009 owners, do you use dust protective cover such as Cpc-1 or no cover?

I have Cpc1, but it looks ugly. Do you cover sr-009 everyday after using it?


----------



## DefQon

I use the CPC-1 covers and vinyl protectors.


----------



## arnaud

I keep my in its box... Better safe than sorry, especially if you tend to live in dusty place.


----------



## shipsupt

I used to keep all my stats covered with CPC-1 covers when they were out on stands, otherwise they lived in their boxes.  My wife didn't like the look so she got me this nifty glass case to keep them all in.  I'll have to take a picture of it some time with the headphones in it. 
   
  It's a bit over the top, but I like seeing my headphones, I can grab whatever I want to listen to, and it keeps the dust out!


----------



## K_19

I keep my SR-007 in their flight case if they're not being used. Bit of an hassle to take it in and out for every listen, but I know they'll stay dust free and secure so it's a tradeoff I'm willing to take.
   
  And before that even when I had HD800 and LCD-2's I always kept them in their box as well. Personally don't like headphone stands too much as there's always a slim chance the headphones can be knocked off (freak accidents happen), plus the dust factor and all that.


----------



## arnaud

In Japan, we're always at the mercy of earthquakes so I am not comfortable using a stand. You got more to worry about than your phones when it shakes a lot but well, I still pay attention to this .


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> The port mod turns it into an MK1, which has no midbass hump.


 
   
  This only works for the first version of the Mk2's (SZ2) but not the newest ones.  Nothing can be done to them unfortunately. 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> In Japan, we're always at the mercy of earthquakes so I am not comfortable using a stand. You got more to worry about than your phones when it shakes a lot but well, I still pay attention to this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I can vouch for the Stax stands in earthquakes.


----------



## Amarphael

I've just posted my 407+323s combo here if anyone's inetersted.


----------



## forbigger

I left my stax on headphone stand unless I will be away for more than 2 days then I'll store it to plastic box with 30-50% humidity. I personally wouldnt worry on the normal dust unless its really dusty environment. The headphones is designed to withstand dust from normal environment


----------



## Amarphael

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> Wow, didn't know there was an easier mod. How much of the hump does it get rid off and do you have a link to a thread for this mod? Thank you again, this really helps sway me towards the mk2s.


 
  Read the last post in this thread and you'll find it. IME it successfully eliminates the mid-bass hump. Do note that it mostly valid for SZ2 version (first iteration of O2mk2) since SZ3 are supposedly signifiacntly more uneven due to a diaphram change.


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Read the last post in this thread and you'll find it. IME it successfully eliminates the mid-bass hump. Do note that it mostly valid for SZ2 version (first iteration of O2mk2) since SZ3 are supposedly signifiacntly more uneven due to a diaphram change.


 
  Great, thank you. The set I am planning to buy are the SZ2.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> I keep my in its box... Better safe than sorry


 
   
  Me too... from now on


----------



## shipsupt

Just keep the power on so that cat learns a lesson next time!
   

   
  Quote: 





grokit said:


> Me too... from now on


----------



## schorsch

Thanks a lot!
   
  I'll try to manage it )
   
  Regards Georg
   
  BTW: I was yesterday in Frankfurt talking to a gib audio dealer who is the Stax person in town. He didn't know about the SR 009!!!


----------



## jackskelly

For SR-009 owners, have you noticed the sound signature change over time? My SR-009 arrived today and I'm curious about "break-in" concerning STAX headphones.


----------



## forbigger

i dont hear any differences. but again i'm not a believer of burn in so take my comment with grain of salt


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> i dont hear any differences. but again i'm not a believer of burn in so take my comment with grain of salt


 
  Agreed mostly here. While some changes may happen over time, I usually find them very little and nothing to concern myself with. With regards to the SR-009s, I heard no changes.


----------



## DefQon

Electrostatic transducers don't benefit from burn-in as it does not exist to the concept of how it works compared to a conventional dynamic or planar magnetic driver due to moving parts. So far the only person that says burn-in exist for stat's is pkshan, but he must've been high or drunk


----------



## bearFNF

The only thing I notice with my 25+ year old Stax is that they take a few minutes to charge up.  Other than that they have not changed in all that time.  What does make a difference is the amp or energizer you use but not due to any kind of burn in.


----------



## telecaster

In the Stax factory tour interview, it is clearly stated that they burn in their newly made earspeakers for continous one week (I assume its continous) so that make 170 hours roughly.
   
  Also I am reinsured in my choice of the 006TS as until recently they were always testing their earspeaker designs with the T1.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> In the Stax factory tour interview, it is clearly stated that they burn in their newly made earspeakers for continous one week (I assume its continous) so that make 170 hours roughly.
> 
> Also I am reinsured in my choice of the 006TS as until recently they were always testing their earspeaker designs with the T1.


 
  Still don't hear no differences here and I've got two pairs of Lambda Pro's now. One that's been used with almost 5000 hours on them and one that is NOS sealed until I started using them. Maybe the 009's benefit from burn-in? I don't know.


----------



## gilency

This has been discussed many times before. The reason they do it is to weed out defective ones, not to burn them in. 
Besides, what the interview stated or what they do or don't is not necessarily gospel.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





gilency said:


> This has been discussed many times before. The reason they do it is to weed out defective ones, not to burn them in.
> Besides, what the interview stated or what they do or don't is not necessarily gospel.


 

 +1 all the way


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





gilency said:


> This has been discussed many times before. The reason they do it is to weed out defective ones, not to burn them in.
> Besides, what the interview stated or what they do or don't is not necessarily gospel.


 
  What gospel!? There is no magnet and paper cone to routine, but there IS a physical mechanism that is in play, otherwise they would not need to burn them!
  Don't spread gospel please while you said not to believe to it


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Still don't hear no differences here and I've got two pairs of Lambda Pro's now. One that's been used with almost 5000 hours on them and one that is NOS sealed until I started using them. Maybe the 009's benefit from burn-in? I don't know.


 
  Well you are Lucky to be able to do A/B test easily thus we are inclined to believe burn in don't affect sonic performance.


----------



## DefQon

I guess a charge up is more an appropriate term used for differences perceived pre-usage and post-usage of any electrostat. Especially helpful for vintage stat's that have had a charge up in many years, let it charge up to let it re-bias itself to fix any deficiencies in sound such as slight channel imbalance or low volume for like 8 hours. Sound improves after a good proper charge up. But burn-in in this case, don't think so.
   
  Back on topic. Decided to give my Gamma Pro's some headtime today as I've been listening out of the SRM1 MK2 > LP and my recapped xH > 202's. Gone back to using the SRD-7SB MK2 on speaker taps of my modded Yaqin speaker amp, talk about musicality, while these are no technical beasts like the LP combo, the Gamma Pro's on this amp sounds night and day better than when paired with the MK2 or xh and is extremely musical and resolving to listen to, the benefit of the tube hybrid amp I'm using adds on the extra weight and depth to the music. Currently using borderlining great tubes in the amp 2x Mullards CT 12AT7's and 2 60's Sylvania green letter 12AU7, both pairs all balanced and it sounds this good. Going to roll in my upper grade lot Psvane's and Amperex BB in for a change. Reminds me how much I paid for the Gamma Pro's again in NOS condition for $350 shipped org box absolute steal.


----------



## DefQon

Anyone interested in a Gamma normal bias model for 300?
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STAX-Gamma-Vintage-Electrostatic-Earspeakers-Headphones-Headset-/321123224446?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac46f8b7e


----------



## arnaud

I'd need to check the interview write up but, clearly, it was about weeding out bad units for the first 1 week (we did witness it, and it's real). The second run-in (after assembly and with music this time), we did not witness but that is supposed to happen prior to final measurement prior to shipment. I don't recall Stax specifically talking about burnin effect but they did say the goal was to be sure the product would operate in a "stable" manner once it reached the end-user.


----------



## n3rdling

It was clearly about braking in the drivers and making sure they weren't faulty, but some people are gonna read it the way they want to unfortunately.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> It was clearly about braking in the drivers and making sure they weren't faulty, but some people are gonna read it the way they want to unfortunately.


 

 Exactly. No point explaining the science behind it because I promise you, the discussion will recur.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Exactly. No point explaining the science behind it because I promise you, the discussion will recur.


 
   
  Yup.  Magical thinking FTL.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> In the Stax factory tour interview, it is clearly stated that they burn in their newly made earspeakers for continous one week (I assume its continous) so that make 170 hours roughly.


 
   
  I never said that the burn in period would change the sound signature of the stax. It is a misconception of the term. The burn in period is, like for the new motor in a car the period which you don't push it too hard. A burn in period is what it is, a period where the mechanical parts are ran into play in order to make the mechanics well oiled.
   
  Just stating that burn in doesn't exist for stats is dumb, the Stax staff just explained it to you and doesn't get the attention. It exists.
   
  I can understand the stax mafia beiing fed up by newcomers asking about the so called "change of sound during burn in".
   
  After that I concur, the sound doesn't change at all if you all say so.
   
  What "burn in" means to most people in audiodome is not applicable to Stax speakers, but please don't make me say what I didn't.


----------



## spritzer

Equating the natural wear and tear of a combustion engine to burn in is beyond idiotic to say the least.  Same goes for claiming that a transducer in headphones or a capacitor needs 200 hours "to settle down".  Has anybody set down and calculated just how many cycles have gone through the parts at that point?  I also find it truly funny that it's never the listener that is at fault in this situation.  It is just assumed that our perception of sound is flawless and we pickup any and all minute details on the first five minutes.  Hell, most just do a part of a song and think they know everything.


----------



## telecaster

Idiotic or not, the french term is "rodage" for new motors and is used for the so called burn in thingy this side of the pond.


----------



## bearFNF

I think mostly it is like stress testing a new computer after you build it, you are making sure that the components function the way they are supposed to, you are looking for the X percentile parts that *will *fail.  In addition you are making sure the parts work well together.  By running the system for X amount of time you decrease the likely hood that you will send out a part to a customer that will exhibit early life failure.


----------



## gilency

Telecaster, chill. 
No reason to get all excited about this. 
You can disagree and that's fine.


----------



## telecaster

No offense taken, maybe a language barrier.


----------



## DefQon

Is it a tendency for European ebay sellers to list vintage Stax gear at extremely inflated prices? There is a pair of Sigma's for over 3000 euros, a Lambda Signature + T1 for 1000+ euros ???


----------



## Tachikoma

Depends on the type of European, I've never found a reasonably priced Stax listing from Italy, French and German sellers on the other hand are much more realistic.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tachikoma said:


> Depends on the type of European, I've never found a reasonably priced Stax listing from Italy, French and German sellers on the other hand are much more realistic.


 
  Same here for Italian sellers that's where the 3000 euro Sigma is from. German sellers are usually overpriced too with buy-it-now's.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Is it a tendency for European ebay sellers to list vintage Stax gear at extremely inflated prices? There is a pair of Sigma's for over 3000 euros, a* Lambda Signature + T1 for 1000+ euros* ???


 
   
  That seems quite cheap compared to wiktor the professional flipper. That idiot has a pair of lambda sigs + srm-007t for GBP1800 (close to $2700)


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> That seems quite cheap compared to wiktor the professional flipper. That idiot has a pair of lambda sigs + srm-007t for GBP1800 (close to $2700)


 
  Well his Polish, I think that's saying something. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Btw, nice Stax collection you got there jjinh.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Well his Polish, I think that's saying something.


 
   
  I thought everything was cheap in Poland... well that's what the Polish people I've talked to have told me.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I thought everything was cheap in Poland... well that's what the Polish people I've talked to have told me.


 
  Well not with vintage audio gear, ludicrously expensive on a few vintage audio stuff I've searched up before. So far sellers from Italy, Poland and some audio companies from Germany have ridiculously priced Stax gear on there ebay domain.


----------



## jjinh

Didnt see the EUR3000 sigmas from Italy but I did find an Italian LNS for EUR800. Apparently the guy paid 2700000 lira for them - considering the rate of inflation they had before they joined the euro that's probably only like 10c


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Didnt see the EUR3000 sigmas from Italy but I did find an Italian LNS for EUR800. Apparently the guy paid 2700000 lira for them - considering the rate of inflation they had before they joined the euro that's probably only like 10c


 
  Yeah 800euros is still a rip off for the LNS. I've seen LNS' popup on the UK ebay domain + a T1W amp for $850 with a vintage HPS-1 stand after the GBP conversion, I tried my best talking the seller to ship them to Australia but he just didn't budge. Also LNS' on Yahoo Japan auctions go for around $350-500 (after rate conversion). So far the only two expensive Lambda frame stat's that go for quite a lot are the Sigma Pro's and 404 LE. One I just sold because I didn't like the condition and needed money and the other I'm still looking for.


----------



## milosz

Spritzer, I used a fully synthetic 5W-30  oil with my SR-007 MK 1's until they had 10,000 miles on them, then I switched to 10W-30.
   
  (Guessing at 0.007 inches of total peak-peak diaphragm travel, and 10,000 Hz driving the diaphragms, the diaphragms will have moved a total of 1 mile is just over 15 minutes. Played continuously, the diaphragms will have "traveled" 10,000 miles in about 105 days- at which time one should drain their oil, change the filter and switch to a slightly heavier oil....)
   
  This helps the electrostatic fields to "bed in"......


----------



## DefQon

Haha nice one milosz.


----------



## shipsupt

At the risk of not letting a sleeping dog lie...
   
  The running time that is accomplished at the STAX factory is almost certainly to uncover defects and failures that can occur early in the life of any piece of equipment.  
   
  These failures are commonly referred to as "infant mortality" and are difficult to predict.  Reliability engineers typically use this type of bathtub curve to visualize these failures.  When a product is able to operate without failure through this relatively short period of time the confidence in it's long term reliability increases rapidly.


----------



## milosz

I think the "burn in time" at the Stax factory is just the employees listening to tunes on all the great headphones coming off the line.....  come on, you KNOW they all wear headphones all day long at Stax HQ!
   
  "Hey Yoshi you got to listen to this tune on the '009's!"


----------



## shipsupt

That actually makes the most sense of any explanation I've heard yet!


----------



## grokit

I'm guessing that the EU sellers in particular are reflecting a higher cost of Stax equipment, VATs and what-not?
   
  It seems like US and Japanese sellers offer the best second-hand prices but I could be mistaken.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





grokit said:


> I'm guessing that the EU sellers in particular are reflecting a higher cost of Stax equipment, VATs and what-not?
> 
> It seems like US and Japanese sellers offer the best second-hand prices but I could be mistaken.


 

 +1.
   
  @DefCon, btw I  am not sure how stereotyping by someone's nationality has anything to with the gear prices?


----------



## realmassy

defqon said:


> Well his Polish, I think that's saying something.




is this really funny?


----------



## autoteleology

Do Lambdas typically distort heavily at high volumes? I can't seem to get more than a mediocre volume of bass out of mine, even with an EQ.
   
  EDIT: This might have been because I was running off of battery (at 9.6V) on my energizer. Will double-check.


----------



## DefQon

dukeskd said:


> @DefCon, btw I  am not sure how stereotyping by someone's nationality has anything to with the gear prices?







realmassy said:


> is this really funny?




 I think you guys have interpreted my post wrong and what I posted after in response to jjinh. I'm not stereotyping any nationality and it would be wrong for me generalise and group all Euro sellers as rip off merchant sellers on fleabay. What I was saying was and I'm on eBay everyday is sellers from Poland and Italy have ridiculously priced Stqx gear when there are a few on sale, all Polish sellers I have dealt with have overpriced Stax gear. Wiktor is one comes straight to mind as currently he is selling the original SR-Omegas for $5000 which is nowhere even worth that amount. VAT and import charges is not an excuse to increase sale price of the item to 100-200% of its original estimated price..


----------



## DefQon

tus-chan said:


> Do Lambdas typically distort heavily at high volumes? I can't seem to get more than a mediocre volume of bass out of mine, even with an EQ.
> 
> EDIT: This might have been because I was running off of battery (at 9.6V) on my energizer. Will double-check.




 If it starts to distort that means there is not enough power. My xh starts clipping and distorting at 2 o'clock earlier than my 160 watt fed SRD-7SBmkii will.


----------



## autoteleology

> If it starts to distort that means there is not enough power. My xh starts clipping and distorting at 2 o'clock earlier than my 160 watt fed SRD-7SBmkii will.


 
   
  If there was anything I hated about the SRM-Xh, it was the fact that it was crazy underpowered.

 The SRD-X sounds much better on the wart than it sounded at the meet I went to, so I'm just going to assume that it was the inadequate batteries.


----------



## DefQon

Yeah underpowered is something the xh is but thats but for me it will start distorting at fairly high levels usually keep the volume dial at 12'o clock and max out the volume at my source. It's still the best amp do far for my 202's which easily becomes too bright sounding on other energizer/amps I've tried except the T1S


----------



## singh

so does the smaller stax amps (212, 252, xh, etc. ) benefit from a better power supply ?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Wiktor is one comes straight to mind as currently he is selling the original SR-Omegas for $5000 which is nowhere even worth that amount.


 
   
  I've seen SR-Ω sell for much more than that, even on this forum...
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> ...Sigma Pro's and 404 LE. One I just sold because I didn't like the condition and needed money and the other I'm still looking for.


 
   
  Get a pair of Lambda sigs. I think they sound better than the 404LE, plus they also should be cheaper if you dont buy them from, say, wiktor


----------



## dantesvictus

now please help me fix this wire mess 
   

   
  after using it, im just too lazy to roll the wire .. are there any tool / gadget that auto rolls the wire?
   
  something like this -> 
   
   
  i meant the mechanic that uses the measuring tape, are there anything similar to that kind of device for rolling the wire!


----------



## DefQon

You can use some sort of velcro to hold the extra length of cable rolled up you don't need. I do this with my Stax headphones when they are not in use on the headstands they go with cables rolled up and velcro'd through the middle to hold it. Don't use rubber band or tape. Rubber band can deteriorate and leave that sticky rubber residue over time on the cables and I think you know why not to use sticky tape.
   
  Good luck.


----------



## yawg

Hi.
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Equating the natural wear and tear of a combustion engine to burn in is beyond idiotic to say the least.  Same goes for claiming that a transducer in headphones or a capacitor needs 200 hours "to settle down".  Has anybody set down and calculated just how many cycles have gone through the parts at that point?  I also find it truly funny that it's never the listener that is at fault in this situation.  It is just assumed that our perception of sound is flawless and we pickup any and all minute details on the first five minutes.  Hell, most just do a part of a song and think they know everything.


 
  Yeah! It seems you know everything already. Great. So fuggedabout all our own experiences concerning "burn-in" or "changing sound with time" ...
   
  I've heard things that amazed me. I never believed in "burn-in" before but my ears told me otherwise. Especially with the "new" x-os of my Maggies. They are still getting better soundwise after more than 100 hours of listening. No joking.
   
  Otherwise I respect your expertise ...
   
  Greetings, Jörg.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I've seen SR-Ω sell for much more than that, even on this forum...
> 
> 
> Get a pair of Lambda sigs. I think they sound better than the 404LE, plus they also should be cheaper if you dont buy them from, say, wiktor


 

 Yea to that. I own a pair of Lambda Nova Sigs and love them, especially after I fitted them with the new leather pads.
   
  But it seems they are getting scarce these days ...
   
  Greetings, Jörg.


----------



## DefQon

I think jjinh meant the original Lambda Signatures.


----------



## jjinh

That's correct - I prefer the Lambda Sigs over the LNS
   
  Plus those SR-Omegas have sold...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Plus those SR-Omegas have sold...


 
  Feel sorry for the poor soul for purchased them.


----------



## pkshan

In terms of SQ, the Lambda sig is the best in lambda family
  especially the PVC dust cover version, sound is fuller,has more mid-bass,soundstage is wider
  the only flaw is the etch
   
   LNS/407/507/underpowered O2 sound a little "plastic" when comparing to sig


----------



## padam

I wouldn't declare it as the best Lambda, it might be super resolving and I agree the newer ones being not as natural.
  But it is just bloody bright, when I compared with the NB Lambda which imho still somewhat bright (although with amazing tone)
   
  Although I guess it can be tamed down somewhat (it needs plenty of that) and some (older?) people are simply just able to adjust to it.


----------



## pkshan

padam said:


> I wouldn't declare it as the best Lambda, it might be super resolving and I agree the newer ones being not as natural.
> But it is just bloody bright, when I compared with the NB Lambda which imho still somewhat bright (although with amazing tone)
> 
> Although I guess it can be tamed down somewhat (it needs plenty of that) and some (older?) people are simply just able to adjust to it.


 

   
  my PVC dust cover lambda sig(#27xxx) has more mid-bass than the woven nylon version(#22xxx)
  oh & the later version is definitely louder..it's as loud as the SR507
   
  someone said the later version has 1.5um diaphragm


----------



## pkshan

the normal bias lambda is an amazing headphone too,
  it's my next target


----------



## DefQon

Yeah faust3d says that the Sig is bright as well but sounds faster with better extension, I'd still consider the normal bias Lambda to be the best out of the Lambda family, the LP most bassy and dynamic and the LNS acclaimed to be most neutral like a Lambda on steroids.
   
  As of now my adequately powered Gamma Pro is the most musical stat I've heard up to date. It is one of the later models with the Alpha pro pads so it makes it even rarer than the normal early round padded Gamma Pro.


----------



## autoteleology

What exactly does "musical" mean? Is there a static definition for such a description?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What exactly does "musical" mean? Is there a static definition for such a description?


 
   
  smooth,liquid, lush, emotional ,sweet, intimate,meaty vocal ,rich tone color
  etc


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What exactly does "musical" mean? Is there a static definition for such a description?


 
  I guess you could say colored or dynamic. Things that tend to be described as cold are more analytical and closer to being neutral and uncolored.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> smooth,liquid, lush, emotional ,sweet, intimate,meaty vocal ,rich tone color
> etc


 
  Yep. While ago Nikongod posted that one should never sell the rare GP although not the best technical stat out there (in terms of retrieving detail compared to the higher end stats or the best Lambda's), but it is a very involving and musical. I now know why after hearing them adequately powered with the right tubes. My well powered GP is pretty forward too, more so then any of my other Lambda's. 
  Quote: 





mrviolin said:


> I guess you could say colored or dynamic.


 
  You can say it is both. But in terms of dynamics, my LP goes lower and is more punchier sounding by subtle amounts, all will change when I get a good T1S.


----------



## pkshan

the GP earpad was discontinued
  can it uses 007 pads?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> the GP earpad was discontinued
> can it uses 007 pads?


 
  No, completely different size and shape.


----------



## Rico613

I had a chance to audition the Cavalli Liquid Lightning over the weekend.  This was the first time I was able to use my SR 007 mk 2 and 009s.  Of course the 009s sounded more precise and clear than the 007 mk 2, but once I connected the LL2 to my high resolution DCS dac the 007s came through like a champ, even the sound stage was quite decent.  The SR009s did improve the longer I listened, especially the bass frequencies.  I wish I'd been able to spend more time with the LL2, but another guy had reserved the demo unit.  I'm figuring the 009s require about 50 hours to break in.  I'm looking forward to hearing the LL again maybe along with the incoming BHSE !!


----------



## gilency

rico613 said:


> I'm figuring the 009s require about 50 hours to break in.



Here we go again....


----------



## Rico613

just say'n . . .


----------



## dantesvictus

irregular voltage problem burnt my stax srm-727a driver  . white smoke everywhere.. glad i removed headphone cable (wire mess) before turning on the driver.
  its dead now. so the warranty covers it?


----------



## forbigger

if you plug in your amp with the wrong voltage then i doubt the warranty will stand.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> I'm figuring the 009s require about 50 hours to break in.


 
  The headphone doesn't need the break in. However the person listening to it.. does


----------



## Clsmooth391

I just purchased a pair of SR-007 Mk2 which have recently had the diaphragms replaced. I was under the impression that they would still be mk2 drivers but Sprtizer has confirmed they will be the mk2.5 drivers. I found the mk1 a little laid back. I'm moving away from dynamics because of the harsh treble or non harsh treble but lack of detail. Will the mk2.5 drivers be as hot on the treble as dynamic headphones and has anyone heard them to give their views. Is there an easy mod for these to tame the brightness? I'm worried I've made a mistake in buying these.
 
Also, what amp would suit this version of the SR-007? I don't mind going as high as the BHSE (although it will take time to save up).


----------



## Rico613

Curious, who replaces the diaphragms ?  STAX USA ?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> Curious, who replaces the diaphragms ?  STAX USA ?


 

 Doubtful, I think they'd need to send back to Japan.


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Doubtful, I think they'd need to send back to Japan.


 
   
  Yep, he sent it back to Japan. Although Stax in the USA would also fix the Japanese model but they are expensive.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> I just purchased a pair of SR-007 Mk2 which have recently had the diaphragms replaced. I was under the impression that they would still be mk2 drivers but Sprtizer has confirmed they will be the mk2.5 drivers. I found the mk1 a little laid back. I'm moving away from dynamics because of the harsh treble or non harsh treble but lack of detail. Will the mk2.5 drivers be as hot on the treble as dynamic headphones and has anyone heard them to give their views. Is there an easy mod for these to tame the brightness? I'm worried I've made a mistake in buying these.
> 
> Also, what amp would suit this version of the SR-007? I don't mind going as high as the BHSE (although it will take time to save up).


 
  No, brightness is a relative term and not necessary equal to harsh treble etc.
   
  So you should get a 717 or modded 727 maybe try it with a few good sources (some of them are warmer, some are brighter relative to others) if you can and if you don't like the sound, just re-sell it and don't worry about the purchase.
   
  And if you have issues with it but generally like the "electrostatic nature" compared to dynamics, then just get a BHSE and find the one you like the most but a good source is equally important but I am not going to get in a debate about which one is the "best", the amps are easier to rank but the source is no less important (even with dynamic headphones as well).


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> Yep, he sent it back to Japan. Although Stax in the USA would also fix the Japanese model but they are *a rip off.*


 
   
  FIFY.


----------



## DefQon

This is Yama's we are talking about as the US Stax repair/warranty replacement center?


----------



## rgs9200m

For my Stax 007t/ii amp, I am thinking of tuberolling in some Brimar/Mazda 6FQ7 or 6CG7 tubes (2 matched sets).
  First, can I just plug them in w/o biasing them just to hear how they sound and if I like them,
  later ship the amp and tubes to Stax/Yamasinc for biasing?
   
  (And if I don't like the sound of the new tubes, just reinstalling the original stock tubes and be back where I started.)
   
  Will this work?
  Thanks.
  (I have SR009 phones).


----------



## DefQon

Ain't the newer line Stax tube amps auto biasing?


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Ain't the newer line Stax tube amps auto biasing?


 
  No, Stax says they aren't. It's a pain...


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> No, Stax says they aren't. It's a pain...


 
  Looking at Stax.co.jp website the SRM 007Tii is a 2006 model. It is the SRM 006TS that was introduce in 2010.
   
  I would do it myself, it looks pretty easy. I don't know yet if the 006TS auto bias either.


----------



## grokit

Quote:  





> Stax in the USA would also fix the Japanese model but they are expensive.


 
   
  Not according to their website, unless I am misinterpreting the legalese:
   
_"STAX audio products are sold throughout the U.S. by STAX Authorized Dealers. Accutech provides 1 years manufacture's warranty only on STAX products sold by STAX Authorized Dealers and warranty applies only to the original purchaser. STAX warranty does not cover products with removed or defaced serial numbers. (Serial numbers are strictly enforced) To ensure that you are dealing with a STAX Authorized Dealer or to learn more about warranties, please contact us at stax [at] yamasinc.com or call 310-327-3913.

 There are some dealers who sell STAX products but are not authorized to do so. These dealer may offer STAX products for sale via direct retail sales, mail order or the Internet. The products they sell may be acquired through illegal methods or through questionable business practices. These goods may be damaged, defective, used or refurbished, or they might not be designed for use in the U.S. (different voltage)_
   


> _Many unauthorized dealers do not offer any customer support, service, or parts. Also, some of these dealers engage in fraudulent practices to avoid responsibility for after-sale problems. Given a poor supply chain, a non-authorized dealer is in a poor position to deal with service issues. Even though some dealers claim to warrant the product in lieu of the manufacturer's warranty, they do not have a direct source for getting genuine STAX replacement parts._
> 
> _*STAX products purchased from these channels (includes second-hands) are NOT serviced in the U.S.*_


 _So how do you know? Simply, by emailing us at stax [at] yamasinc.com or by calling 310-327-3913"_


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Not according to their website, unless I am misinterpreting the legalese:
> 
> _"STAX audio products are sold throughout the U.S. by STAX Authorized Dealers. Accutech provides 1 years manufacture's warranty only on STAX products sold by STAX Authorized Dealers and warranty applies only to the original purchaser. STAX warranty does not cover products with removed or defaced serial numbers. (Serial numbers are strictly enforced) To ensure that you are dealing with a STAX Authorized Dealer or to learn more about warranties, please contact us at stax [at] yamasinc.com or call 310-327-3913.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  I emailed Stax and they replied saying that they would still service the product even if it was from Japan and charge $25 diagnositc fee, $50 hour labour + parts + return shipping.


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





defqon said:


> This is Yama's we are talking about as the US Stax repair/warranty replacement center?


 
  Yep, that's the one.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> $25 diagnositc fee, $50 hour labour + parts + return shipping.


 
  Very expensive rate there. But of course handling these sort of things require patience and caution. You can't expect to throw your Stax across the room at the wall to fix rattling problems inside like you can do with a pair of Beyer DT770 (actually have done lol)...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> For my Stax 007t/ii amp, I am thinking of tuberolling in some Brimar/Mazda 6FQ7 or 6CG7 tubes (2 matched sets).
> First, can I just plug them in w/o biasing them just to hear how they sound and if I like them,
> _*later ship the amp and tubes to Stax/Yamasinc for biasing?*_
> 
> ...


 
   
  Get a multimeter and do a search - it's quite easy to bias the amp


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> the normal bias lambda is an amazing headphone too,
> it's my next target


 
   
  The normal bias lambdas are fantastic headphones! (...except I dont think I've used mine for years, just like some of my other head-fi gear)
   
  This looks like a pair of Lambda nb on sale on ebay. They also do international shipping if you are not in CONUS
  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stax-SR-Lambda-6-Pin-Electrostatic-Earphones-W-SRD-7-MK2-Adaptor-Earspeaker-/230980133809?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item35c77d23b1


----------



## DefQon

Except I'm bidding on those. lol


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Except I'm bidding on those. lol


 
   
  so you want me to delete the link??


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> so you want me to delete the link??


 
  Nah it's all good. Bidding and watching about 6 separate listings from various places on the normal bias Lambda's. I like my stuff with original box.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Nah it's all good. Bidding and watching about 6 separate listings from various places on the normal bias Lambda's. I like my stuff with original box.


 
   
  Since you mentioned it this set has the original box
   

   
   
  Now are you the person that bid on that set? If so, ummmmm.... looks like someone did a bodgy diy job. I've circled the weirdness. Like What???


----------



## DefQon

Yep bidding on those too. Contacted the seller if he would part just the earspeakers he said he'll let the auction run as is for now and see where it'll go. I also asked him about the cable connection as it seems the previous owner changed the cable to 6 pin DIN type connector. I might have to order a new cable as I only have spare pro bias cables. Seller said he didn't touch it but bought it like that from the previous seller.


----------



## jjinh

well at least you know what you're getting yourself into


----------



## padam

I would stay away from that pair. No damping means it won't sound too good and the repair job is quite crappy as well.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> well at least you know what you're getting yourself into


 
  Yeah I'm still thinking about it. I've got myself too far into collecting these headphones now and I said to myself that I'll stop. It's not helping, even with me being broke as hell now. I've got myself down too deep in the rabbit hole.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





padam said:


> I would stay away from that pair. No damping means it won't sound too good and the repair job is quite crappy as well.


 
  I've got spare Stax damping material.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





padam said:


> I would stay away from that pair. No damping means it won't sound too good and _*the repair job is quite crappy as well.*_


 
   
  Yep... was hilarious when I first saw it on eBay


----------



## DefQon

jjinh do you have original boxes for your Lambda collection?


----------



## jjinh

Interesting question.
   
  I have at least 3, maybe 5 lambda boxes. I'd have to check as I dont store my headphones in their original boxes. I also have the the SR-007, SR-003 boxes. I suspect people just throw boxes away but I have rooms full of old packaging...


----------



## padam

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I've got spare Stax damping material.


 
  Somehow I have a strong suspicion it would still not sound as good as a pair that wasn't abused in any way.

 Mine looked like it came from the scrapyard as the headpad is barely holding and the earpad isn't in the best shape either but the housing is in very good shape so it does sound very good. It held smoke smell as well but it is gone now.
  I might pick up another pair eventually, maybe I should bid on the other one as well? =)


----------



## autoteleology

> It held smoke smell as well but it is gone now.


 
   
  Bleh, I know that feel. My SR-303 smelled _strongly _like a senior citizen's home when it arrived at my house. It was pretty gross, but it's gone now as well.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Ain't the newer line Stax tube amps auto biasing?


 
   
  Well there is no such thing as auto bias, it's either fixed or not.  You can have servo control of the variable bias but that only goes so far.  The Stax amps all need to be adjusted but it is far more important to get properly matched tubes. Then the biasing is much easier and far more stable.


----------



## rgs9200m

As far as self-biasing, someone wrote this on gearslutz.com:
   
  Firstly, understand that VALVE/TUBES have insanely high voltages (HV) and an amp+ of current in places (some heaters)... you can DIE by playing with these voltages, and at best will get the shock of your life (like thrown across a room or to the floor)... and just remember, death is permanent!

 If none of this scares you and you are happy to take your life into your own hands, acknowledge you do so at your own risk and are solely responsible for your actions (i.e, if you die or are hospitalized from your own stupidity or errors... you are to blame).

 Right with that disclaimer out of the way, here is a good place to start RE working with amps: SafetyTips

 RE biasing, the most common way is to do what is known as a 'cathode resistor bias', which measures the idle current across a resistor and you can retro fit this to most amps, general done on octal based output valves, many 9 pins don't need to be biased (or rather are 'preset').

 You will need to place a 1ohm (best used for easy maths) resistor (2W-5W) from the cathode (pin 8 on most octal tubes) and ground and read the V across it.

 What's nice about the cathode resistor method is that you're not dealing with high voltages. The cathode sits close to ground , which lessens your chances of death.... You're also reading each tube's bias current individually. 

 To get a rough idea on BIAS points for the various tube families visit: Weber Bias Calculator

 Since I could write a short book on how to do this all (and won't) your best bet is to purchase a tool like the Biasrite or BiasKing, which is much safer to use (you place it between the valve socket and valves).

 RE meters, Fluke are the best (IMO), but expensive (and i don't use one because of that), there are a TON of Chinese ones that for most audio applications are more than sufficient. An autorange can be a nice feature to have if you are looking for one.

 I hope that is of some help.

 Cheers

 Matt


----------



## Argybargy

*SRM 600 LIMITED: DEAD LEFT CHANNEL*
  
  The headphones are good as I tried them with a different amp.  I tried switching the tubes and the left channel stayed dead, so not the tubes.
   
  Cable and DAC are both confirmed good.
   
  The problem first started with static in the left channel, then over the course of about 5 hours the sound gradually disappeared from the left channel.
   
  Right sounds fine.
   
  Any ideas about what I should check?


----------



## DefQon

KG is going to make a post any second now. But I'd check if there is anything burnt or crispy looking inside.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Good call, how did you know?
   
  Quote:


rgs9200m said:


> As far as self-biasing, someone wrote this on gearslutz.com:
> 
> yada yada


 
   
  Absolutely none of this applies to stax tube amps. You do not adjust the output stage bias current.
  You DO adjust the output stage DC voltage at the plate of the tube.
   
  The stax T2 has a servo which keeps the output DC voltage at zero within a limited range.
  Newer versions of my kgsshv do the same thing.
   
  As far as the srm600, likely the input fet pair is toast. on that one, a pair of 2sk170's glued together.
  (goes looking for srm600 schematic)
   
  Look carefully at the plate resistors. Measure with an ohmmeter after the thing is unplugged and
  has been off for at least 30 minutes. remove both tubes and measure all 4 resistors.


----------



## Argybargy

Thanks Kevin for the quick response.
   
  I measured the 4 big resistors on each channel. They appear to be the original 30kohm AMRG.  Going left to right with the front panel facing me.
   
  L channel: 30.6, OL, OL, 33.4
   
  R channel: 65.3, 28.2, 29.7, 32.9


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Good call, how did you know?


 
   
  Just had a good gut feeling that it was going to happen.


----------



## pkshan

The 30k AMRG death rate is about 50%+
   
  every srm600 user should buy some spares....
  you can get some cheap AMRG from amazon.co.jp
   
  I've replaced  8-9 resistors, now they don't die
   
  6 ARMG  in your srm600 are bad
  they should be 27.5-29k


----------



## Argybargy

Any more reliable brands than AMRG that  ya'll recommend?  These are 5 watts right?
   
  Did the bad resistors cause the FETs to fry?  I guess I can order some matched 2sk170 from Ebay; seem to be out of stock at Mouser.


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> 6 ARMG  in your srm600 are bad
> they should be 27.5-29k


 
   
  Yikes! That would explain the somewhat disappointing SQ.


----------



## pkshan

you can use two 15k AMRG, connect them in serial. so they never die
  I've tried Caddock, Kiwame,Mills,AB resistors,
  AMRG sound the best


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> you can use two 15k AMRG, connect them in serial. so they never die
> I've tried Caddock, Kiwame,Mills,AB resistors,
> AMRG sound the best


 
   
  Amazon Japan has both the 15k and 30k 2 watts.  Is this the correct power rating?


----------



## pkshan

yes, 2watts


----------



## Argybargy

Thanks PK.  I should probably test the resistors in my 007T.
  
  EDIT:  Just ordered 16 of the 15k AMRG from Amazon Japan.  $99 (ouch), $40 of which was shipping (double ouch).


----------



## milosz

SR-009s _* ABSOLUTELY*_ require break-in!
   
  I can't afford a pair right now.  Give me your address and I'll break in and steal them.  I definitely require a pair!


----------



## kevin gilmore

kind of busy, today is the BIG day.
   
  anyway...
   
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srm600.pdf
   
  the fets are probably ok.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> kind of busy, today is the BIG day.


 
  Success of a new Stax amp in the works?


----------



## wink

Quote:Argybargy 





> EDIT:  Just ordered 16 of the 15k AMRG from Amazon Japan.  $99 (ouch), $40 of which was shipping (double ouch).


 
  Welcome to the world of DIY.


----------



## wink

QuoteefQon4 





> Success of a new Stax amp in the works?


 
  There is always an amp in the works, not necessarily for Stax.
   
  The Megatron Lives...?????


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> kind of busy, today is the BIG day.


 
   
  grand opening of my new facility today  >30M$
   
  one of the display toys I am responsible for
   
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/oxford500.jpg


----------



## shipsupt

Congratulations.  Very cool looking toy!
   
  And cheap too, well compared to the projects we do... it doesn't get much attention here until that M is a B!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> grand opening of my new facility today  >30M$
> 
> one of the display toys I am responsible for
> 
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/oxford500.jpg


----------



## wink

So that's what you cook and bottle-wash with....
   
  Can't find the drainplug...


----------



## kevin gilmore

there is definitely a drain plug.
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/oxford500drain.jpg


----------



## wink

Yep, I see it.
  Real nice and shiny too.
   
  Thanks for the pic.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> Thanks PK.  I should probably test the resistors in my 007T.
> 
> EDIT:  Just ordered 16 of the 15k AMRG from Amazon Japan.  $99 (ouch), $40 of which was shipping (double ouch).


 
   
  Waste of money imo, just go with good quality film resistors from companies which can make a stable product.  When I've modified SRM-T1's to take ECC99's I've always used Koa SPR2's and they are dirt cheap:
   
  http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/SPR2LT521R303J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIJluUSu3XpsVTXhV2evorbo%3d
   
  Plenty of other good choices out there too. 
   
  The SRM-007t uses different resistors, the excellent 7W Dale's.


----------



## ctemkin

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> grand opening of my new facility today  >30M$
> 
> one of the display toys I am responsible for
> 
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/oxford500.jpg


 
  Shiny, and yet it bears a certain resemblance to Bender, a robot character on Futurama.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> grand opening of my new facility today  >30M$
> 
> one of the display toys I am responsible for
> 
> http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/oxford500.jpg


 
  Can't seem to find whether that thing accepts pro-bias or not


----------



## rawrster

So I've decided to get a Stax rig although a "budget" amp compared to those of you with BHSE and the like. The O2 and the SRM-323S will probably be it for me unless I can find a good deal in the future when I can afford more. I just have to hope I can find an O2 in the FS for a good price from a good seller.
   
  My best rig so far has been a HD800 rig which I'm not parting ways with but I've sold off my HE6 rig so hopefully I've made the right decision.


----------



## pkshan

If you pair the 007ta with an O2, yes, any modification will be waste of money.
  the headphone is still underpowered & heavily distorted.
   
  if you are using a high resolution lambda(lambda signature etc), modding the amp will give you a huge sound improvement 
  one of my friend decided to sell his O2mk1 after listening my LS+T1S mod for about 1minute


----------



## gilency

So, Kevin, how cold does it get?
Is it for cryogenically treated cables?


----------



## wink

It's for cryogenically treating all those dogs out there who sell fake HV transistors needed to build quality Stax electrostatic amplifiers.
   
  Corrected typo.....


----------



## livewire

Wink - you lost me with that one...
  You been drinkin?


----------



## gilency

livewire said:


> Wink - you lost me with that one...
> You been drinkin?




Ha ha ha!


----------



## Richard941

I have a pair of _Nova Basic_ headphones and _SRM-T1_ energiser.
 The headphones are showing their age and need new pads and cord assembly.
 I'm thinking of buying a new pair.
  
 I previously owned a pair of _Lambda Signatures_ (1 micron diaphragm) which I found too tiring - *Treble Etch?*
 I don't want to make the same mistake, so *how do the following compare in terms of Treble Etch?*
  
 _Nova Basic_
 _SR-207_
 _SR-307_
 _SR-407_
 _SR-507_
  
 Thanks for your help.


----------



## DefQon

Wink is having his coffee hit at this time. Expect random and unusually funny posts from him.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





richard941 said:


> I have a pair of _Nova Basic_ headphones and _SRM-T1_ energiser.
> The headphones are showing their age and need new pads and cord assembly.
> I'm thinking of buying a new pair.
> 
> ...


 
  You could just buy a spare cable and new pads for your Nova's and save a lot of cash from buying a new modern Lambda. That said, I don't think I've ever come across used Nova Basic's anywhere on ebay nor here.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





richard941 said:


> I have a pair of _Nova Basic_ headphones and _SRM-T1_ energiser.
> The headphones are showing their age and need new pads and cord assembly.
> I'm thinking of buying a new pair.
> 
> ...


 
  buy a nova signature,second choice would be 407
  if you can tame the highs, lambda signature (1.5um later version) is better


----------



## DefQon

How the heck do you find out what um thickness version your Signature has?


----------



## pkshan

later version use PVC dust cover, 
  (serial #27xxx and later(or maybe #26xxx, not sure))
   
  later version have thicker bass, less high peaks, larger soundstage
  they sound so good if you have a good amp, they are one class above LNS,407,507
   
  the 1.5um was mentioned in a Japanese web site


----------



## Richard941

Quote: 





defqon said:


> How the heck do you find out what um thickness version your Signature has?


 
   
  http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stax_SR-Λ_Signature
   
  Also - years ago I sent for a _Signature_ leaflet. The 1 micron diaphragm was a "big new feature".


----------



## spritzer

There was never a 1.5um Signature unless somebody crammed Lambda Pro drivers in those frames.  Not something Stax ever did.


----------



## Argybargy

kevin gilmore said:


> kind of busy, today is the BIG day.
> 
> anyway...
> 
> ...




Thanks for the help Kevin.


----------



## Argybargy

spritzer said:


> Waste of money imo, just go with good quality film resistors from companies which can make a stable product.  When I've modified SRM-T1's to take ECC99's I've always used Koa SPR2's and they are dirt cheap:
> 
> http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/SPR2LT521R303J/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIJluUSu3XpsVTXhV2evorbo%3d
> 
> ...




Thanks for your suggestions. I'll keep them in mind for any future mods/repairs.


----------



## wink

Fixed the typo in my previous post. May make more sense now, but I doubt it.
   
  Have had 4 cups of glorious coffee since then.


----------



## gilency

defqon said:


> How the heck do you find out what um thickness version your Signature has?



Easy, get some measuring tape.


----------



## DefQon

lol, I was waiting for somebody to make a post like that.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> So I've decided to get a Stax rig although a "budget" amp compared to those of you with BHSE and the like. The O2 and the SRM-323S will probably be it for me unless I can find a good deal in the future when I can afford more. I just have to hope I can find an O2 in the FS for a good price from a good seller.
> 
> My best rig so far has been a HD800 rig which I'm not parting ways with but I've sold off my HE6 rig so hopefully I've made the right decision.


 
   
  I went the route of building a "single rig to drive all headphones". The WA22 will drive a T1/HD800 or LCD2/3 quite well on its own with the right tubes. Then I had it modded to preamp duty to pump the signal on to a balanced integrated/power amp for earspeakers like the K1000 and HE6. After that it's a no-brainer to add a WEE energizer and my electrostatic headphone of preference to complete the circle.
   
  It's a pretty easy template to follow, without duplicating my exact equipment choices. I think that it's beneficial to stay balanced in a chain like this to minimize the possibility of noise and crosstalk, but it probably isn't necessary. I guess my main point is this way I can roll transducers instead of rigs. I can tweak cables or swap out sources and even amplification components while keeping the rig essentially the same.


----------



## DefQon

Or you can just buy one really good speaker amp with pre-amp, build a dummy load for the amp so you can run dynamic headphones off it, while powering something more demanding such as the HE-6/K1k off speaker taps.


----------



## grokit

I have to add a dummy load to my WA22 whenever I switch it to preamp duty. It's not the most convenient procedure (I insert a special TRS plug), but it keeps the signal pure according to Woo.


----------



## DefQon

Interesting.


----------



## pkshan

my #27xxx late version lambda signature have more bass than the LNS/407/507, 
  bass quantity is close to the lambda pro, 
   
  but I am sure they are not pro driver in sig frame, lambda pro don't use PVC dust cover.
  their timbre are different too.
   
   1.5um was mentioned in a Japanese web site:
http://20cheaddatebase.web.fc2.com/STAX/SR-LambdaSignature.html
  anyway, I don't care how thick they are, only sound is important.
   
  with the 507 leather pad, they sound even better!
  I've sold all my other lambdas, because I see no reason to keep them
  the lambda signature soundstage & basses are gorgeous, best vocal I've heard, best highs in Lambda family, 
  and they sound most realistic to me


----------



## DefQon

Lambda Sig's are known to be pretty bright sounding. Maybe your pair was modified?


----------



## spritzer

If they claim the drivers were changed in the early 90's then they would have used the Spirit (Pro Classic in Europe) drivers.  If you have a picture then I can spot them in an instant. 
   
  I do have a set of Spirit drivers here in a SR-303 shell somewhere...


----------



## autoteleology

What's the difference?


----------



## pkshan

Early lambda signature sound like bookshelf speakers,
  the late sig sound like floor standing speakers,
  the later one just sound bigger, heavier &...louder (higher volume)


----------



## DefQon

No foam/clothe dampening in them by stock?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No foam/clothe dampening in them by stock?


 
   
  If you mean the woolly, yellow stuff I dont think they ever had that.
   
  What the lambda sigs did have is a thin, see-through foam mesh that played no dampening function.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Lambda Sig's are known to be pretty bright sounding. Maybe your pair was modified?


 
   
  They might be a little bit 'bright' but they're no problem for me. On the other hand if I spend 2 minutes with the HD800s I'm grappling my head in pain.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Early lambda signature sound like bookshelf speakers,
> the late sig sound like floor standing speakers,
> the later one just sound bigger, heavier &...louder (higher volume)


 
   
  That's just a normal Signature driver.  There is also no truth to units after 27000 being any different, I just found one in my stash with a S/N of almost 37000 and it sounds just like all my other Signatures.


----------



## autoteleology

Does the foam in the Lambdas make any difference in the ability of the drivers to withstand dust, or can I just take it out? I don't like how it looks.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> They might be a little bit 'bright' but they're no problem for me. On the other hand if I spend 2 minutes with the HD800s I'm grappling my head in pain.


 
  Yeah the treble peak is about the only flaw with them, the purrin/anax mod does mask the 5-6k peak down a bit and sound quite resolving on a good powerful and synergised amp.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> That's just a normal Signature driver.  There is also no truth to units after 27000 being any different, I just found one in my stash with a S/N of almost 37000 and it sounds just like all my other Signatures.


 
  hmm..I will try get more Lambda Signature & hear the difference later, 
  my #22xxx sound thin & bright,
  but this one (#27xxx) sound very balanced,good bass,etch is less noticeable


----------



## DefQon

All these serial numbers makes me wonder exactly how many Lambda's Stax sold back then before the company closed down. Not to mention how many Lambda's have been binned by radio broadcast stations, special uses etc.


----------



## nemomec

hello,
   
  i´m the owner of a beautiful Stax SR-404LE + SRM T1 amp. I have some questions for a little upgrade or no upgrade 
   
  Is the SR-507 better than the 404LE?
  Is the Omega SR 007 MK1/2 a huge upgrade for the 404LE?
  Is it better to upgrade the amp?
   
  The Omega are to expensive for me  and i will prefer the SR-507 or other. The Signature is also a option for me, but some users descripted they as to bright 
   
  My music are only pop/rock and songwriter.
   
  I also had some staxes and amps like SR 202/303/404/307/Pro and SRM252II/323A/SDR-XPro/SRM1MK2/SRM006t. The Lambda Pro + SRM1 MK2 was for me the best of them, but the combo of SR404LE+T1 was my favourite.
   
  Thanks


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Is the SR-507 better than the 404LE?
> 
> The Lambda Pro + SRM1 MK2 was for me the best of them.
> 
> Thanks


 
  No
   
  and
  I'm rocking out to that very combo right now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> They might be a little bit 'bright' but they're no problem for me. On the other hand if I spend 2 minutes with the HD800s I'm grappling my head in pain.


 
   
   
  I have a similar reaction. I love the HD800's, best damn dynamic headphone ever, but I just can't listen to them at anything much above 78~80 dB without feeling like my ears will bleed.  I am particularly sensitive to frequencies from about 5~6.5 kHz, sensitive in that if they are even a smidge too high in level, my ears hurt.  Love 'em but can't live with 'em (at least not for long periods)
   
  The HD800's sound BRIGHT to me.  My Lambda Signatures have an "exaggerated detail" sound which does not come across as "bright / sibilant" to me, but the sound of the Lambda Signatures is just like someone described it:  ETCHED.  Like the details stand out  more than the should somehow.  But they still manage to sound pretty SMOOTH.  How they can be peaky and smooth at the same time, I don't know.  I guess it's all about where in the frequency domain the peaks occur.  The ear is pretty sensitive at the HD800's  peak of 6 kHz, which the Lamdba sound like they have extra energy at around 2~3 kHz and again above 10,000.  Peaks at these frequencies are often perceived to be more benign that those in the 6~8 kHz range.  In addition, I think the Lambda peaks are lower in amplitude than th HD800's.
   
  Some people have more sensitivity to ~6 kHz peaks than others.  I don't mean their ears are more sensitive at that frequency, it's more they have ears which react to power in the 6 kHz range with a certain amount of pain more readily than at other frequencies. In addition, people with this kind of sensitivity react with irritation or annoyance to energy near this frequency fairly readily. Peaks in this part of the audio spectrum really bug some people, while others are able to hear the peak and say, "Yep, kinda bright" without feeling particularly irritated.  This might be a form of hyperacusis.


----------



## milosz

Teledyne Ph 219  electrostatic - looks like a Stax OEM,  which Stax headsets are these?
   
   

   
  ( Ebay [size=x-small]Item number: ​[/size]181141781271 )
 [size=x-small] 181141781271[/size]


----------



## livewire

Dunno. SR-3 or SR-5 regular bias maybe?
  I read somewhere that KG had mentioned the Teledyne cans were OEM Stax.


----------



## autoteleology

> My Lambda Signatures have an "exaggerated detail" sound which does not come across as "bright / sibilant" to me, but the sound of the Lambda Signatures is just like someone described it:  ETCHED.  Like the details stand out  more than the should somehow.  But they still manage to sound pretty SMOOTH.  How they can be peaky and smooth at the same time, I don't know.


 
   
  All of the frequency response graphs that I have seen for any Lambda have shown combinations of treble peaks with large, narrow treble valleys. I suspect that this may have something to do with the issue you bring up.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Dunno. SR-3 or SR-5 regular bias maybe?
> I read somewhere that KG had mentioned the Teledyne cans were OEM Stax.


 
  SR-3 normal bias I think. I'm bidding on those.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> SR-3 normal bias I think. I'm bidding on those.


 

 Is there a vintage Stax auction you aren't participating in?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Is there a vintage Stax auction you aren't participating in?


 
  Those that strictly don't ship to "down-under" (even after negotiations with the sellers).


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> All these serial numbers makes me wonder exactly how many Lambda's Stax sold back then before the company closed down. Not to mention how many Lambda's have been binned by radio broadcast stations, special uses etc.


 
   
  Highest I've see is in the mid 40000's and then they changed to the new numbering system. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> I have a similar reaction. I love the HD800's, best damn dynamic headphone ever, but I just can't listen to them at anything much above 78~80 dB without feeling like my ears will bleed.  I am particularly sensitive to frequencies from about 5~6.5 kHz, sensitive in that if they are even a smidge too high in level, my ears hurt.  Love 'em but can't live with 'em (at least not for long periods)
> 
> The HD800's sound BRIGHT to me.  My Lambda Signatures have an "exaggerated detail" sound which does not come across as "bright / sibilant" to me, but the sound of the Lambda Signatures is just like someone described it:  ETCHED.  Like the details stand out  more than the should somehow.  But they still manage to sound pretty SMOOTH.  How they can be peaky and smooth at the same time, I don't know.  I guess it's all about where in the frequency domain the peaks occur.  The ear is pretty sensitive at the HD800's  peak of 6 kHz, which the Lamdba sound like they have extra energy at around 2~3 kHz and again above 10,000.  Peaks at these frequencies are often perceived to be more benign that those in the 6~8 kHz range.  In addition, I think the Lambda peaks are lower in amplitude than th HD800's.
> 
> Some people have more sensitivity to ~6 kHz peaks than others.  I don't mean their ears are more sensitive at that frequency, it's more they have ears which react to power in the 6 kHz range with a certain amount of pain more readily than at other frequencies. In addition, people with this kind of sensitivity react with irritation or annoyance to energy near this frequency fairly readily. Peaks in this part of the audio spectrum really bug some people, while others are able to hear the peak and say, "Yep, kinda bright" without feeling particularly irritated.  This might be a form of hyperacusis.


 
   
  Have you done any mods to the cups?  That foam stuff they recommend for the "official" mod went too far for my tastes and felt was even worse.  I went with similar stuff you see around high end tweeters to control the diffraction and it smoothed them out just enough. 
   
  Also, try some electrical damping.  You could just find some dual gang linear pots and find your ideal setting with them. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Teledyne Ph 219  electrostatic - looks like a Stax OEM,  which Stax headsets are these?
> 
> ( Ebay [size=x-small]Item number: ​[/size]181141781271 )
> [size=x-small] 181141781271[/size]


 
   
  It's the shell of a SR-3N driver but it's not Stax compatible.


----------



## arnaud

milosz said:


> This might be a form of hyperacusis.



Most certainly the case for most headphone addicts I am adraid to say ...


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> hello,
> 
> i´m the owner of a beautiful Stax SR-404LE + SRM T1 amp. I have some questions for a little upgrade or no upgrade
> 
> ...


 
  The 507 bass goes deeper, is cleaner, more articulate and with more impact. The mid are warmer and more fluid, and the treble are more detailed and less fatiguing than 404 LE. How much an improvement, you have to hear it yourself I'm affraid.


----------



## nemomec

im confused about the different opinions about the SR-507 vs SR-404LE  DefQon says the 507 isnt better and you says it is better than 404LE


----------



## Rico613

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I have a similar reaction. I love the HD800's, best damn dynamic headphone ever, but I just can't listen to them at anything much above 78~80 dB without feeling like my ears will bleed.  I am particularly sensitive to frequencies from about 5~6.5 kHz, sensitive in that if they are even a smidge too high in level, my ears hurt.  Love 'em but can't live with 'em (at least not for long periods)
> 
> The HD800's sound BRIGHT to me.


 
  At the risk of being a head-fi heretic, I'm using a RANE DEQ 60L 30 band parametric equalizer that helps with the 'too bright' thing on the HD 800s and has other advantages as well. There are software equalizers that look like they would do much the same thing.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> im confused about the different opinions about the SR-507 vs SR-404LE  DefQon says the 507 isnt better and you says it is better than 404LE


 
  I tried it with my 006TS and a friend brought over his 404LE. The 507 is a step up we both came to this conclusion. The 507 is more transparent, due to its newer diaphragm. The treble is improved, but the bass is most definately very improved. You have to listen to well recorded music to have the requiered bass information.
   
  Only your ears can tell you what you like or dislike, listenning to others is only delaying the real world test.
   
  Why not bring your 404LE to a store that demo a 507?


----------



## nemomec

Thanks for your opinion, it is true only my ears can tell me what are the best headphone for me. Unfortunately here is no local store with stax headphones, but i will look forward for a used SR-507.


----------



## renrossi

Hi,
   
  This is my first post and I was wondering if somebody could help.
   
  I own an SRM-006tA and transformer has gone, HV lines have no voltage.
   
  I'd like to confim red, orange and blue voltages, which I'm almost sure are respectively 270V, 250V and 6.3V (got from a SRM-T1 schematic, but it`s a little blurred), so I can find a replacement for that.
   
  By the way, if somebody has SRM-006tA schematic, I would appreciate very much.
   
  Thnaks in advance!


----------



## nemomec

some other question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I´m searching for a user manual and / or schematics for the stax SRM T1, is there a pdf download available or can any user send me the documents?
   
  thanks!


----------



## kevin gilmore

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/stax_srm-t1.jpg


----------



## Mr.Sneis

Can't catch a break these days; last night I somehow cracked the bottom part of the plastic of my 717's output jack.  It works perfectly thank goodness but is there a possible way to replace that jack?  I get the feeling that the answer is something along the lines of - not worth the hassle if it still works fine.  I know Headamp made a bunch of teflon jacks but they aren't drop-in replacements.


----------



## spritzer

Yama's should sell you a new socket for something like this.  Not cheap though...


----------



## n3rdling

You can also try to win something cheap on ebay with a 5 pin plug on it (srd7, etc).  If you want to repair the jack you could probably do so with a tiny bit of epoxy or permanent glue.


----------



## livewire

> n/m


----------



## rawrster

What the typical going rate for a used O2 MK1 and MK2? I've been thinking around 1500 and 1700-1800 or am I off base with that?
   
  I've been looking at possibly buying from pricejapan if no one bites in the FS. It's only around 1800 from there and also I like the silver color much better since it matches better than the black with the drivers looking brown for the USA version.


----------



## K_19

MK1's typically go between $1500~$1900 depending on the condition from what I've seen.


----------



## DefQon

Seen a few sell lately at 2000-2100.


----------



## nemomec

Thanks for the schematics for the SRM T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is there also a user manual?


----------



## miceblue

For future reference when I can actually spend more than $1000 on audio gear, where and how much would a Stax SR-Lambda Signature with amp cost me?
   
  How does the SR-404 compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?
  How does the SR-404LE compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?
  How does the SR-507 compare to the SR-Lambda Signature?
   
  What Stax amp should I get to power the aforementioned earspeakers? I know nothing about amps and electrostatic headphones other than the Blue Hawaii SE and Cavalli Audio Liquid Lightning (way too expensive).
   
  I've tried a SR-007 MKI before and really liked it. It didn't "wow" me like the SR-Lambda Signature though and it's far too expensive for me.


----------



## chinsettawong

If budget is limited, SR202 isn't a bad choice.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Wachara C.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> If budget is limited, SR202 isn't a bad choice.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Hm I'll consider it. Stax's description for the 202 doesn't mention the Lambda in it. XD


----------



## DefQon

SRM-T1S (balanced input) + any of the Lambda's has a good sound to it.
   
  That said when I might be offloading my 202's for cheap soon, so be in for the look out in the F/S forums if you want a good entry into Stax.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Does the foam in the Lambdas make any difference in the ability of the drivers to withstand dust, or can I just take it out? I don't like how it looks.


 
  After I've replaced the pads of my LNS with new leather pads I found that the foam had faded to almost invisibility and the drivers are loose in the cups. Is there a good solution to fix the drivers from the outside so they cannot move anymore? I don't want to remove the new pads again and the sound of the set seems OK to me.
   
  Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Have you done any mods to the cups?  That foam stuff they recommend for the "official" mod went too far for my tastes and felt was even worse.  I went with similar stuff you see around high end tweeters to control the diffraction and it smoothed them out just enough.
> 
> Also, try some electrical damping.  You could just find some dual gang linear pots and find your ideal setting with them.


 
   I have bought the self-stick foam sheets for the "_[size=13.63636302947998px]Anaxilus Mod"  [/size]_but have not actually done any mods on the HD800's.  
   
  >>similar stuff you see around high end tweeters<<
   
  I sometimes see fairly thick felt with an angular "starburst" pattern cut into it to present a greater surface area to the tweeter at a lower angle of incidence, but I assume you mean something else.  Basotect maybe?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





rico613 said:


> At the risk of being a head-fi heretic, I'm using a RANE DEQ 60L 30 band parametric equalizer that helps with the 'too bright' thing on the HD 800s and has other advantages as well. There are software equalizers that look like they would do much the same thing.


 
  Yeah  I dial in some EQ too, using DSP in my PC.  But it's more than a frequency response peak-  there's some stored energy that rings back at the frequency and EQ can't deal with time-domain issues like this mild ringing.


----------



## DefQon

Which is why using dampening material to mod the insides of the cups can help mask / reduce this stored up treble energy around 5-6k. It's still a bright sounding headphone sure, but couple a modded HD800 with a good powerful tube amp is musical bliss to these ears.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





yawg said:


> After I've replaced the pads of my LNS with new leather pads I found that the foam had faded to almost invisibility and the drivers are loose in the cups. Is there a good solution to fix the drivers from the outside so they cannot move anymore? I don't want to remove the new pads again and the sound of the set seems OK to me.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions.


 
   
  You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> I have bought the self-stick foam sheets for the "_[size=13.63636302947998px]Anaxilus Mod"  [/size]_but have not actually done any mods on the HD800's.
> 
> >>similar stuff you see around high end tweeters<<
> 
> I sometimes see fairly thick felt with an angular "starburst" pattern cut into it to present a greater surface area to the tweeter at a lower angle of incidence, but I assume you mean something else.  Basotect maybe?


 
   
  I meant the stuff used by SEAS and others.  It's a bit like suede but courser.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners.


 
  I don't understand "lift up the 4 corners". The pads are glued to the edge of the inside of the frames and cannot be lifted.
   
  BTW how are the drivers hold in place in the Lambda Sig. frames? I don't want to replace the foam and would like my Nova Sigs also without foam but without the drivers moving in the frames.
   
  On the photo you can see the rest of the foam. It just vanishes into thin air ...

   
   
  TIA for a good workable solution.


----------



## DefQon

Each corner is secured down by a screw. You don't need to rip the whole pad off to access them just left the corners up. They are not glued down but held down with a strong type of double sided 3M tape.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I meant the stuff used by SEAS and others.  It's a bit like suede but courser.


 
  I'm trying to track down a source.
   
  I can't find anything on the SEAS site.  I have some speakers with SEAS Excel tweeters, they don't have any sort of 'damping' material on the tweeter surrounding face.
   
  Alcantara? Micro-suede? (made of 'microfiber' polyester) - something like the velour that covers the HD800 earpads?


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You don't need to remove the earpads to get into the cups, just lift up the 4 corners.


 
  Wished I'd seen this or asked around before ripping off my pads...how does one align the drivers ?
   
  TIA


----------



## Clsmooth391

I have the SR-007 Mk2.5 arriving shortly and was looking at gettin either the LL2 or BHSE (leaning towards the LL2). Would it be more wise to go for the SRM-717 (heard it's basically a KGSS with the Stax name) and save for the SR-009?


----------



## miceblue

Speaking of the SR-007 MKII, what changed between the MKI and the MKII? Many people who have heard prefer the MKI. Looking at the two Innerfidelity measurements for the SR-007, the 1576 serial number one looks....really disappointing to say the least. What was Stax thinking?


----------



## n3rdling

mk2 has an open port near the strain relief resulting in a FR closer to the free-air response of the driver.  Resonance frequency in the midbass is exaggerated and sub bass is rolled off.  You can always plug the port yourself to make it sound like the mk1.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> mk2 has an open port near the strain relief resulting in a FR closer to the free-air response of the driver.  Resonance frequency in the midbass is exaggerated and sub bass is rolled off.  You can always plug the port yourself to make it sound like the mk1.


 
  Huh, interesting. I wonder if Stax felt that the MKII sounded better.


----------



## Currawong

They probably got complaints about the "fart" and put the port in. Would have been nice if they had simply added some kind of plug that one could selectively leave in or remove.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Looking for some opinions here.  I've done lots of reading and searching already.  I have a completely rebuilt srm1-mk2.  How would this compare to the T1?  The T1 is appealing because it has both pro and normal plugs, but I can add a pro plug (and plan to) to my srm1mk2 to solve the usability issue.
> 
> Should I bother getting the a T1 that I might have to replace parts and tubes for, or save my money for a lambda signature if it ever comes up?  lol.


 
   
  SRM1MK2 is puncher,T1(not T1S/T1W) is more musical,
  both are better than 006ts/007ta,
  (better than my stock T1S too
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
   
  006ts/007ta sound dry,harsh,veiled & bland ,sound pretty suck if you compare them to old amps


----------



## DefQon

Ain't T1/S internals the same except T1S with has balanced?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Ain't T1/S internals the same except T1S with has balanced?


 
  they use different parts


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> they use different parts


 
  Interesting I couldn't really tell both apart when I was listening to my L's and O's through both the T1 and the T1S. The T1W looks even more interesting.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Interesting I couldn't really tell both apart when I was listening to my L's and O's through both the T1 and the T1S. The T1W looks even more interesting.


 
  T1W sounds the worst in this 3 amps,
   because it has switches on the signal path,
   
  I am surprised that you can't hear the difference.....
   
  maybe your system bottleneck is not the amp


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





> SRM1MK2 is puncher,T1(not T1S/T1W) is more musical


 
   
  I agree, same experience here with a SR-404LE. I had some never stax amps like SRM 323A, SRM 006t, SRM 252A but the SRM 1 MK2 and the SRM T1 was the best for me, power vs musical.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> T1W sounds the worst in this 3 amps,
> because it has switches on the signal path,
> 
> I am surprised that you can't hear the difference.....
> ...


 
  Wouldn't be the headphones or my source that's what I know.


----------



## spritzer

If people are comparing old T1's to the new amps without changing the caps, tubes and bias then the comparison in utterly worthless. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> I'm trying to track down a source.
> 
> I can't find anything on the SEAS site.  I have some speakers with SEAS Excel tweeters, they don't have any sort of 'damping' material on the tweeter surrounding face.
> 
> Alcantara? Micro-suede? (made of 'microfiber' polyester) - something like the velour that covers the HD800 earpads?


 
   
  I got this stuff from an ex SEAS engineer, that was the only reason I mentioned them.  I just guessed it was something used on the drivers but it could have been used for R&D alone. 
   
  Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Wished I'd seen this or asked around before ripping off my pads...how does one align the drivers ?
> 
> TIA


 
   
  They just sit around the center opening, not much more to it. 
   
  Quote: 





currawong said:


> They probably got complaints about the "fart" and put the port in. Would have been nice if they had simply added some kind of plug that one could selectively leave in or remove.


 
   
  The fart was a factor and so was the depth of the ear chamber so they added the port and changed the springs so the earpads sit higher away from the phones.  This only applies to the first Mk2 units (serial number SZ2-xxxx) not the ones you can buy now.  They sound quite bad with the same diaphragm as the 009 and no way of fixing any of it.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





> If people are comparing old T1's to the new amps without changing the caps, tubes and bias then the comparison in utterly worthless.


 
  I have changed the caps on my SRM 1 Mk 2 and SRM T1 and had also done biasing. This makes the amps better e.g. hum/noise of both ist totally gone!
   
  I don´t think a amp upgrade to SRM 717 or SRM 007t or other expensive Stax amps is useful, i spend the money better in Stax headphones e.g. Omega II. I have read on kenrockwell.com that the SRM 1 MK2 is good enough for the Omega II and the SRM T1 ist good for the Lambdas. What is your opinion?


----------



## Mr.Sneis

That Ken Rockwell should not be consulted when it comes to Stax!


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> That Ken Rockwell should not be consulted when it comes to Stax!


 

 x10, or anything else for that matter


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Wait why? I briefly glanced through his reviews, and they seemed pretty positive.


----------



## soren_brix

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Wait why? I briefly glanced through his reviews, and they seemed pretty positive.


 
  Well, everybody is entitled to have their specific opinion about almost anything.
  When it comes to Mr. Rockwell, he tends to be very positive about almost anything. A great deal of the advice he is giving on his website seems to be contradictive, at least to me. I'd say he is a happy guy that might be writing a lot about stuff he is very enthusiastic about, but at the same time could benefit a great deal from having a great deal more insights to the stuff 
  In rgrds to camera stuff there are a lot of other sources on the web to consult, and in rgrds to Earspeakers I would rather trawl this forum


----------



## spritzer

He knows nothing about cameras and even less about Stax.  He makes money off that POS site so why on earth would be be negative.  Might drive down the traffic...


----------



## miceblue

True...he makes the Ultrasone Edition 8's sound like a glorious headphone. When I tried it, I was pretty unimpressed by them and can't believe people actually pay $$$ for it. >.>


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> I have the SR-007 Mk2.5 arriving shortly and was looking at gettin either the LL2 or BHSE (leaning towards the LL2). Would it be more wise to go for the SRM-717 (heard it's basically a KGSS with the Stax name) and save for the SR-009?


 
   
  Any thoughts?


----------



## Mr.Sneis

I can say for certain the LL2 is a definite step up from the 717 but have not heard he BHSE.  It's pretty much also going to be a considerable step up based on what's known...  In fact I like the KGSS better than the 717 and wish I never sold mine.
   
  I have this internal debate with myself each and every day of whether or not to jump from o2mk1 to 009.  Phase two would be about the amp...


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> I can say for certain the LL2 is a definite step up from the 717 but have not heard he BHSE.  It's pretty much also going to be a considerable step up based on what's known...  In fact I like the KGSS better than the 717 and wish I never sold mine.
> 
> I have this internal debate with myself each and every day of whether or not to jump from o2mk1 to 009.  Phase two would be about the amp...


 
   
  Thank you for that. Think I'll hold off for the LL2 or BHSE.


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They just sit around the center opening, not much more to it.


 
  Thanks Birgir , the drivers on mine are pretty off center and sounds muffled compared to my other pair. I just might send  them to StaxUSA for repair.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> Any thoughts?


 
  I would skip (send back) any SR007 phones and do anything I could to get my hands on a pair of 009s, which nobody could ever pry from me.
  If you have to get a cheap amp or source for a while until you can afford better, I would do so, but to me the 009s are the main kernal to build a great system upon.
  The 009 reveals extreme detail in a musical way that can sink deep in to your brain in ways I never heard any audio system do.
  It can be bright if you don't line up the food chain right, but you'll get there if you work at it a bit.


----------



## nemomec

Ok Ken Rockwell should not be consulted when it comes to Stax.
   
  My question was is the SRM 1 MK2 good enough for the Omega II and the SRM T1 good for the Lambdas? Are there any experiences?


----------



## DefQon

Both the SRM 1 and T1 are good for the Lambda's (with my preference leaning towards the T1 for them).


----------



## n3rdling

T1 is great for Lambdas.  SRM-1 is probably the lowest amp I'd recommend for the O2s if on a budget.


----------



## nemomec

ok thanks!


----------



## pkshan

on a heavily modded T1/SRM1MK2
  The LNS will sound much better than O2. the lambda signature sound even better
   
  changing the wires to PCOCC-A
  didn't change the caps yet, sound is very good already ,much refined than the stock srm600,007ta


----------



## spritzer

Why on earth did you replace the secondary wires on the transformer?  Ohh wait, I forgot my golden rule, never try to reason to crazy people who believe a length of conductor has magical properties... 
  Quote: 





mr.sneis said:


> I can say for certain the LL2 is a definite step up from the 717 but have not heard he BHSE.  It's pretty much also going to be a considerable step up based on what's known...  In fact I like the KGSS better than the 717 and wish I never sold mine.
> 
> I have this internal debate with myself each and every day of whether or not to jump from o2mk1 to 009.  Phase two would be about the amp...


 
   
  You do know that the 717 can be made to sound pretty close to the KGSS?  Even though it is a licensed version of the KGSS, Stax made a real mess of the output stage so it can be "fixed". 
   
  Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> Thanks Birgir , the drivers on mine are pretty off center and sounds muffled compared to my other pair. I just might send  them to StaxUSA for repair.


 
   
  I'd just buy some double sided tape and save a bundle of money.


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> *SRM 600 LIMITED: DEAD LEFT CHANNEL*
> 
> The headphones are good as I tried them with a different amp.  I tried switching the tubes and the left channel stayed dead, so not the tubes.
> 
> ...


 
   

   
  So, I swapped out the 30k resistors with 2x 15k AMRG and then tried to adjust the bias.
   
  When measuring Right+ and Right- I'm getting about 350V DC
  Left+ and Left- about 150V DC
  TVR2 Offset pot has little to no effect; I can't get the value to zero.
  Measuring Right+ and Left+ with negatives at the ground post at the back I can adjust volts to zero using TVR1.
   
  Any idea of what's causing all that DC offset?


----------



## spaceace1014

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You do know that the 717 can be made to sound pretty close to the KGSS?  Even though it is a licensed version of the KGSS, Stax made a real mess of the output stage so it can be "fixed".


 
  I have a 717 arriving tomorrow that I'm planning on recapping/modding shortly. Might I ask what needs to be done to fix the output stage of the 717 and if you have any relevant links? As always Spritzer... Thanks. 
   
  I've been searching... most of the data I've found thus far relates to the 727 especially where fixes are concerned. That non-feedback setup must really be terrible given the amount of information I've found on it.


----------



## pkshan

The ultimate SRM1MK2
  sounds like a 5000 dollars amp......


----------



## renrossi

Hi,
   
  Does anybody have SRM-006t schematic?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## kevin gilmore

Pretty much identical to Srm-t1


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I'd just buy some double sided tape and save a bundle of money.


 
  Again, many thanks for the kind advice.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> So, I swapped out the 30k resistors with 2x 15k AMRG and then tried to adjust the bias.
> 
> When measuring Right+ and Right- I'm getting about 350V DC
> Left+ and Left- about 150V DC
> ...


 
   
  Are you measuring from + to - and trying to adjust via the offset pot?  You use the balance pot for that and the offset is with the red on the + output and the - probe grounded. 
   
  Quote: 





spaceace1014 said:


> I have a 717 arriving tomorrow that I'm planning on recapping/modding shortly. Might I ask what needs to be done to fix the output stage of the 717 and if you have any relevant links? As always Spritzer... Thanks.
> 
> I've been searching... most of the data I've found thus far relates to the 727 especially where fixes are concerned. That non-feedback setup must really be terrible given the amount of information I've found on it.


 
   
  I don't think the procedure for fixing the 717 has ever been posted.  I know Kevin has done it a few times but he'll have to chime in if he has it written up somewhere. 
   
  The stock 727 is quite bad indeed.  It took just one song with the amp ice cold from shipping to know Stax were not paying attention when they signed off on it.


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Are you measuring from + to - and trying to adjust via the offset pot?  You use the balance pot for that and the offset is with the red on the + output and the - probe grounded.


 
   
  Doh!  You're right; I got the pots mixed up.
   
  I'm warming up the amp as I type and will try again.
   
   
   
  EDIT: Thanks!  Made the adjustments and music is flowing once more.
   
  Now onto a more important topic: How long will it take for these resistors to burn in for optimal sound quality?
   
  J/K


----------



## Argybargy

Before closing up the case I took a look at each component in the 600 Ltd and found one suspicious part.
   
  Z5 in the left channel has a frosted appearance that's distinct from the other 4 parts Z5 and Z6.
   
  I guess this is a zener diode?  What's the spec, for replacement?  Kevin's 600 schematic didn't show this part.


----------



## gilency

I fail to see how changing caps and wires with exactly the same circuit would make it into a SEBH.
   
  Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The ultimate SRM1MK2
> sounds like a 5000 dollars amp......


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> Z5 in the left channel has a frosted appearance that's distinct from the other 4 parts Z5 and Z6.


 
   
  neon light bulb
   
  I don't remember where in the circuit it goes.
   
  probably a good idea to replace all 4 at the same time.


----------



## Argybargy

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> neon light bulb
> 
> I don't remember where in the circuit it goes.
> 
> probably a good idea to replace all 4 at the same time.


 
   
  Thanks Kevin.  Any cheap NE-2 like this one will work?
   
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chicago-Miniature/A9A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsEIsGLxVc9kMj9z82SfnH7


----------



## DefQon

Well guys Wikor is at it again - with another set of Omega's at only $6.5k. $1k more than his last listed $5.5k Omega's he listed few weeks ago.
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Headphones-Stax-SR-Omega-MINT-/300910454872?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item460fa92858


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> Thanks Kevin.  Any cheap NE-2 like this one will work?
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chicago-Miniature/A9A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsEIsGLxVc9kMj9z82SfnH7


 
  those will work.
   
  might have to lift them off the board about .5 inch to be able to solder to them.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Well guys Wikor is at it again - with another set of Omega's at only $6.5k. $1k more than his last listed $5.5k Omega's he listed few weeks ago.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Headphones-Stax-SR-Omega-MINT-/300910454872?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item460fa92858


 
  if he is able to sell them it means theres a demand for it at that price ( unlike orpheus that he has listed)


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





singh said:


> if he is able to sell them it means theres a demand for it at that price ( unlike orpheus that he has listed)


 
  Some of his stuff don't even sell. He takes it off or waits for the listing to end. Then bang, a month later the same item is on for sale but $500 more. For those that are buying, they don't realise they are buying them from a seller flipping sales. Which is why he is banned him here.


----------



## autoteleology

What is the AIRBOW SR-SC1, and why would I want one over a regular old Lambda?

http://www.ippinkan.co.jp/airbow/product/headphone/sr.html


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What is the AIRBOW SR-SC1, and why would I want one over a regular old Lambda?
> 
> http://www.ippinkan.co.jp/airbow/product/headphone/sr.html


 
  Yeah, what is that? It looks like a Lambda + SRM-252S or something.


----------



## DefQon

Airbow AC1 is based on the SR-404 Signature. Supposedly slightly better sounding due to cryo'd parts but who knows. Spritzer could chime in. Theres one on Yahoo Japan auctions starting auction at 75000 yen and has been there for over 2 months.


----------



## arnaud

It sounds even better with cryo'd brain cells, just does not come with warranty in that case.
   
  So, you can look this up on a google search and Birgir already got it covered. Just to clarify again, and from direct discussion with the sales director of Stax a couple of weeks back: ippinkan is an audio dealer who buys stock products, mods them, and sell them under a different brand. Stax told me they can't do anything about it, anyone is free to buy stuff at dealer cost and sell back in any form an shape. Birgir said before Stax was modifying the 404 specially for them but the official version is that ippinkan is just like another dealer and Stax exclusively sells standard products. They also entirely disassociate themselves from the ippinkan mods, this is not coming from Stax, not approved by Stax, and honestly speaking, you'll never hear Stax promote cryo treatment...
   
  Having said that, never heard one, the modded unit may sound good. Apparently they sometimes show up during the fall festival in Tokyo so I could give it a shot at some point.


----------



## miceblue

What does cryo treatment mean?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What does cryo treatment mean?


 
   
   


> Wikipedia : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryogenic_treatment
> 
> A *cryogenic treatment* is the process of treating workpieces to cryogenic temperatures (i.e. below −190 °C (−310 °F)) to remove residual stresses and improve wear resistance on steels.
> 
> The process has a wide range of applications from industrial tooling to improvement of musical signal transmission. Some of the benefits of cryogenic treatment include longer part life, less failure due to cracking, improved thermal properties, better electrical properties including less electrical resistance, reduced coefficient of friction, less creep and walk, improved flatness, and easier machining.


 
   
  In other words, bs.


----------



## grokit

If you live in at least _sub_-arctic conditions, you can just throw that crap in the shed for the winter and you're good


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





grokit said:


> If you live in at least _sub_-arctic conditions, you can just throw that crap in the shed for the winter and you're good


 
  Spritzer lol


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Fixed that for you. XD


----------



## gilency

Walt Disney was cryo treated. (post mortem)
  If it was good for him, it should work for Staxes too.


----------



## DefQon

@mice and gilency
   
  hahaha nice one.


----------



## spritzer

The SR-SC1 sounds a lot like the SR-404LE, so much so that it's hard to believe Stax haven't got a hand in the whole deal.  Also, Stax are their own distributor in Japan so the dealers have to talk to them directly.  If they didn't like what they were doing then it would be very easy to not sell them anything.  On top of that, Ippinkan have a very special relationship with Stax as they sell products nobody else sells such as earpads for OOP headphones.... 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Spritzer lol


 
   
  You do realize it's much warmer here that in either the US or northern Europe in the winter?


----------



## wink

Quote:Spritzer 





> You do realize it's much warmer here that in either the US or northern Europe in the winter?


 
  They have a volcano to keep them warm.


----------



## DefQon

lol


----------



## alcyst

Yo





spritzer said:


> The SR-SC1 sounds a lot like the SR-404LE, so much so that it's hard to believe Stax haven't got a hand in the whole deal.  Also, Stax are their own distributor in Japan so the dealers have to talk to them directly.  If they didn't like what they were doing then it would be very easy to not sell them anything.  On top of that, Ippinkan have a very special relationship with Stax as they sell products nobody else sells such as earpads for OOP headphones....
> 
> 
> You do realize it's much warmer here that in either the US or northern Europe in the winter?



You probably mean North Central & Eastern Europe


----------



## telecaster

How do the Toshiba shibaura tubes looks like? Short smooth gray plate high getter?


----------



## telecaster

Double post


----------



## telecaster

Triple post


----------



## DefQon

Hey mate, relax with the post duplication aye?


----------



## shipsupt

Just wanted to add that cryogenic treatment can be very effective for certain materials in some industrial applications, it's not all BS.  The musical transmission part, that's the BS part.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Wikipedia : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cryogenic_treatment
> 
> 
> A *cryogenic treatment* is the process of treating workpieces to cryogenic temperatures (i.e. below −190 °C (−310 °F)) to remove residual stresses and improve wear resistance on steels.
> ...


----------



## DefQon

yeah that's what I meant.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Just wanted to add that cryogenic treatment can be very effective for certain materials in some industrial applications, it's not all BS.  The musical transmission part, that's the BS part.


 

 +1. Just take a look at Lenin


----------



## wink

Let's cryo treat Dr. Dre. He'll be a real cool dude then.
   
  If we don't thaw him out, no big loss.


----------



## gilency

Can we start a petition?
  Here in California, we are used at gathering signatures for Propositions. I imagine it should be somewhat similar.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Can we start a petition?
> Here in California, we are used at gathering signatures for Propositions. I imagine it should be somewhat similar.


 
  Pretty sure you'd get a lot of signatures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote: 





wink said:


> Let's cryo treat Dr. Dre. He'll be a real cool dude then.
> 
> If we don't thaw him out, no big loss.


 
  You and your jokes as always.


----------



## preproman

Can someone point me in the right direction to a few KGSSHV impressions.  I'm in the baby stages (designing stage) of this amp and really looking forward to this journey I'm about to go on.  Next project - to pair with the KGSSHV I would like to add a Quanghao Dac End as the source.  
   
  Mainly how does the KGSSHV compare to the T2, LL mk2, BHSE and the like?


----------



## Mr.Sneis

How is the difficulty of removing and replacing my cracked 717 jack?  What steps are involved?  Stax got back to me at about $40 + 15 ship IIRC.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Qduote: 





preproman said:


> Can someone point me in the right direction to a few HGSSHV impressions.  I'm in the baby stages (designing stage) of this amp and really looking forward to this journey I'm about to go on.  Next project - to pair with the HGSSHV I would like to add a Quanghao Dac End as the source.
> 
> Mainly how does the HGSSHV compare to the T2, LL mk2, BHSE and the like?


 
  Do you mean KGSSHV?


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





satorarepotenet said:


> Do you mean KGSSHV?


 

 Do you mean you've never heard of the amp designed by famous actress and stat enthusiast Heather Graham?


----------



## livewire

I thought that preproman was referring to Hugh Grant....A real skirt chaser stat god if i've ever seen one.


----------



## gilency

Mainly how does the HGSSHV compare to the T2, LL mk2, BHSE and the like?

LL very good
KGSSHV very very good
BHSE very very very good
T2 very very very very good


----------



## preproman

My bad


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Mainly how does the HGSSHV compare to the T2, LL mk2, BHSE and the like?
> 
> LL very good
> KGSSHV very very good
> ...


 
   
   
  Very good - thanks


----------



## DefQon

Ok picked up a working SRM-1 Serial 665 one of the earlier models wired for 100v only. 
   
  Cracked her open and it is using an R-core tranny, no switchable voltages on bottom or the backside.
   
  There is a guide on headfonia for adding in a Pro-bias circuit for the dual normal bias earlier MK2's and I'm wondering it the same can be done to this MK1. 
   
  Should I get a step up transformer or wire up a replacement trafo inside replacing the current, wired for 240v operation? (If so, any recommendations?)
   
  Some pics:
   




   
  Do plan on replacing caps, maybe diodes etc if this amp is worth keeping?
   
  I have an MK2 (pro-bias modded) so wondering what's if it will be an upgrade or downgrade.


----------



## spritzer

The SRM-1 Mk1 is a simplified version of the SRA-12S design so it has a high B+ you can just make a voltage divider off to drive the pro bias. 
   
  Quote:


mr.sneis said:


> How is the difficulty of removing and replacing my cracked 717 jack?  What steps are involved?  Stax got back to me at about $40 + 15 ship IIRC.


 
   
  You would have to completely gut the amp and remove the front panel to get good access to it.  The socket is just fixed with a nut so undo that, desolder all the wires and you are good.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Mainly how does the HGSSHV compare to the T2, LL mk2, BHSE and the like?
> 
> LL very good
> KGSSHV very very good
> ...


 
  really ?
  i had the impression that BHSE and T2 were in the same league. ( keeping out rarity ofcourse ) ( isnt BH design based  (/ inspired? ) on T2 and the BHSE s the improved version by justin ? so in theory BHSE should be better )


----------



## livewire

*WE WANT MOAR - MOAR IS BETTER!*
   

   
  The T2 _is_ MOAR.


----------



## livewire

Has anyone done a comparo between the LL and the HV using the same cans? (007 or 009)
  I've heard a few LL fanboys say that it is in the same league as the BHSE.


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> It sounds even better with cryo'd brain cells, just does not come with warranty in that case.
> 
> So, you can look this up on a google search and Birgir already got it covered. Just to clarify again, and from direct discussion with the sales director of Stax a couple of weeks back: ippinkan is an audio dealer who buys stock products, mods them, and sell them under a different brand. Stax told me they can't do anything about it, anyone is free to buy stuff at dealer cost and sell back in any form an shape. Birgir said before Stax was modifying the 404 specially for them but the official version is that ippinkan is just like another dealer and Stax exclusively sells standard products. They also entirely disassociate themselves from the ippinkan mods, this is not coming from Stax, not approved by Stax, and honestly speaking, you'll never hear Stax promote cryo treatment...
> 
> Having said that, never heard one, the modded unit may sound good. Apparently they sometimes show up during the fall festival in Tokyo so I could give it a shot at some point.


 
  In this country there are a variety of possible legal remedies if Stax wanted to pursue them, such as copyright, design rights and trade dress.   You would need to establish some actual monetary damage and I doubt that Airbow is actually doing that and may even be increasing sales by buying many Staxen themselves.


----------



## edstrelow

Stax Country at La Jolla beach Sunday evening of Memorial Day weekend.
   
  These old Stax portables have enough isolation from external sound, not to be bothered by the surf, even fairly close up. It is also well-worth using a good quality interconnect between a CD player and the the Stax amp.  I have a short silver connector made some years ago by a fellow head-fier.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SRM-1 Mk1 is a simplified version of the SRA-12S design so it has a high B+ you can just make a voltage divider off to drive the pro bias.


 
  Thanks, any pointers as to where to measure or how to get it done?


----------



## wink

Quote:livewire 





> I've heard a few *LL fanboys* say


 
  There's your problem.
   
  According to them the LL probably sounds more realistic than real life.


----------



## David1961

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *livewire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I've heard a few LL fanboys say that it is in the same league as the BHSE.


 
   
  SQ yes, but IMO for looks and build quality, the BHSE is in a completely different league.


----------



## preproman

So what's limiting the KGSSHV from being in the same league SQ wise as the BHSE.  I guess the LL mkII and the KGSSHV will be a better comparison because both are Solid State.


----------



## singh

well from what i think, its the fact that its "the best way to do a T2 in solid state" ( i read a similar phase somewere )


----------



## kevin gilmore

The stax mafia is working on an all surface mount kgsshv with new
  and very fast parts all on a aluminum oxide substrate. very low capacitance
  and close to T2 slew rates. I wanted to do beryllium oxide substrate for better
  thermal characteristics, but was overruled.
   
  (+/-500V power supplies)


----------



## DefQon

Any plans to release "something" beyond the BHSE in the near future? Perhaps something limited in runs and more overkill than the diyT2?


----------



## chinsettawong

kevin gilmore said:


> The stax mafia is working on an all surface mount kgsshv with new
> and very fast parts all on a aluminum oxide substrate. very low capacitance
> and close to T2 slew rates. I wanted to do beryllium oxide substrate for better
> thermal characteristics, but was overruled.
> ...




I want one.


----------



## kevin gilmore

There is a second run of T2's very soon. (i'm not doing it this time)
   
  Something even more silly in the works when we have time.


----------



## shipsupt

And the Megatron is still brewing as well.


----------



## Lil' Knight

defqon said:


> Any plans to release "something" beyond the BHSE in the near future? Perhaps something limited in runs and more overkill than the diyT2?



Hard to believe there would be something more tedious to work with than the T2, especially when one has to do everything from scratch. Being able to get in KG's run of chassis is real bless.


----------



## spritzer

There are no current plans for anything more insane than the T2.  We might do a fully complementary amp that could run at +/-600V or even higher but the sheer insanity needed to build something like that is in short supply... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I'm focusing more on oddball designs and cleaning up and modernizing our other circuits.  For oddball amps I'm now working on a fully balanced tube Stax amp that will fit in the palm of my hand and a fully balanced amp which only has two active parts between the channels, a pair of single DHT's. 
   
  The relationship between the T2 and BHSE is more the former inspired the latter from a far.  Before I sent Kevin my SRM-T2, he had never seen more than parts of the circuit and certainly not the important ones.  He got amazingly close but there are substantial differences in many areas and in terms of complexity, the T2 is unrivaled. 
   
  As for why the KGSSHV can't compare with the BHSE, there are a number of factors.  We had to make certain sacrifices to make the amp work as the onboard version.  The transition to lower current is very linear but there will always be tradeoff by doing that.  Then we have the small issue of triode strapped EL34's being generally awesome and being perfect for this role.  Even the C4686A, which is close to being perfect for the job, can't compare.  Now we could just introduce a crap load of distortion and claim they are equally good but that's not really our thing... 
   
  Before I forget, with that SRM-1 Mk2, measure the metal bridge which connects all the output devices.  Should be around 600V which you can feed through a VD and get pro bias levels.


----------



## kevin gilmore

well there is the version of the T2 with the solid state front end, but that is just equally insane.
  In fact slightly easier to build.


----------



## AnakChan

kevin gilmore said:


> The stax mafia is working on an all surface mount kgsshv with new
> and very fast parts all on a aluminum oxide substrate. very low capacitance
> and close to T2 slew rates. I wanted to do beryllium oxide substrate for better
> thermal characteristics, but was overruled.
> ...


KG getting his decision overruled for the KGSSHV!?

Is there any other info about this new design that you're able to divulge here - apart from what you've shared above such as secondary or tertiary benefits?

I'm noobish at this so my immediate thoughts when I hear "surface mounted" would be compact size in places where space is a premium.


----------



## kevin gilmore

quoting Wikipedia
  Like all beryllium compounds, BeO is carcinogenic and may cause chronic beryllium disease. Once fired into solid form, it is safe to handle as long as it is not subjected to any machining that generates dust.[size=x-small][9][/size] Beryllium oxide ceramic is not a hazardous waste under Federal law in the USA.
   
  We are going to need to put 8 holes in the sheet. May be best to pay someone to do that.
  But dropping it on a hard surface will cause it crack, and that is not a good thing.
   
  I will have a unit made this way. Others will probably want the Alumina version.


----------



## loligagger

How exactly does an offboard kgsshv with the output current turned up (10mAx4 for example) stack up?


----------



## MrViolin

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!



Kevin Gilmore's Super Sexy Horny Vulgar Amp


  Throwing that payed man under the bus 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but I guess that's why he's payed.


----------



## gilency

Looking forward to the new KGSSHV but would love to try the Megatron first


----------



## n3rdling

Me want Megatron


----------



## palchiu

Want Megatron


----------



## preproman

OK so I'm late to the party..  Can someone describe the Megatron??


----------



## DefQon

It's the soon to be released amp from the Stax mafia that requires a power plant to run.


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





defqon said:


> It's the soon to be released amp from the Stax mafia that requires a power plant to run.


 
   
I want more..  I want more..
   
  Never Mind..


----------



## wink

Want every Stax amp KG designed.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wink said:


> Want every Stax amp KG designed.


 
  +1.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





singh said:


> really ?
> i had the impression that BHSE and T2 were in the same league. ( keeping out rarity ofcourse ) ( isnt BH design based  (/ inspired? ) on T2 and the BHSE s the improved version by justin ? so in theory BHSE should be better )


 
  T2  and  D-I-Y  T2    are somewhat different, the D-I-Y  T2  has numerous improvements, I think mostly in voltage and current regulation and active device linearity measures.  I dunno about the Stax T2, but the D-I-Y  T2 certainly is said to better the BHSE according to people who have heard both.


----------



## David1961

To me the DIY T2 is the best looking amp I've ever seen, but apparently Justin isn't interested in building that amp.
  Which is probably just aswell because I don't think Stax would allow the DIY T2 to be done commercially, but I don't know for sure.
   
  I said I would never get shut of my BHSE, but I would for the DIY T2, but only if Justin was willing and allowed to build it.


----------



## DefQon

Both supposedly have heat issues as well.


----------



## wink

Not as much as the original T2.


----------



## David1961

The longest I've had my BHSE on continuously is 9 hours, and yes it did get hot, but out of curiosity I put my hands on the amp section and was able to keep them there. I only left them on for about thirty seconds, but I could quite easily have left them on longer. As I said the BHSE did get hot, but not as hot as some might be thinking it does


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wink said:


> Not as much as the original T2.


 
  Yeah well true, that was the whole point of the diy T2 was to improve the T2 in all aspects possible


----------



## Nebby

Even if a commercial version of the DIY T2 was made, the price required to make it viable would simply price it out of existence


----------



## arnaud

T2 schematics were provided to the DIY community, no commercial release was authorized by Stax so you better get your soldering and debugging skills up if you want one .


----------



## rgs9200m

Does anyone out there think that an all-solid-state amp design could, in theory, do justice to the 009s?


----------



## grokit

The Liquid Lightning folks certainly seem to think so.


----------



## singh

^^ that makes me wonder ..why arnt LL guys here ?? I mean this is stax thread not BHSE thread , i dont see them defending LL here.
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> T2  and  D-I-Y  T2    are somewhat different, the D-I-Y  T2  has numerous improvements, I think mostly in voltage and current regulation and active device linearity measures.  I dunno about the Stax T2, but the D-I-Y  T2 certainly is said to better the BHSE according to people who have heard both.


 
  Hmm OK.


----------



## singh

ah one more thing... Stax alpha pro and Gamma pro , whats the difference ?   ( i read they have same drivers as SR-X MK2 , correct me if wrong ) . they look alike.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> KG getting his decision overruled for the KGSSHV!?


 
    
  That does happen but I'm usually the one being overruled.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  
   
  Quote:


preproman said:


> OK so I'm late to the party..  Can someone describe the Megatron??


 
   
  It's basically the ultimate expression of an all tube electrostatic amp with an EL34 based CCS for each output.  So that means 8 EL34's plus the input tubes.  The complexity of the filaments is in another league as the CCS EL34's cathodes are sitting on top of the output tubes so they will see a lot of voltage.  This violates the C-Fv so they need fully isolated transformers right next to the tubes. 
   
  This design was the fruit of a rather prolific few months when design after design was drawn up and then made ever more complex.  The output stage came from me cloning the RSA A-10 and trying to make something useable from that mess of a circuit and some good ideas from Kevin.  It may look like SRPP but it isn't as SRPP can't work for electrostatics. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> T2  and  D-I-Y  T2    are somewhat different, the D-I-Y  T2  has numerous improvements, I think mostly in voltage and current regulation and active device linearity measures.  I dunno about the Stax T2, but the D-I-Y  T2 certainly is said to better the BHSE according to people who have heard both.


 
   
  The difference between a stock T2 and the DIY is very, very big.  Large part is due to the PSU but also the more linear layout and proper PCB design.  We use better parts too so even if the audio circuits are identical there is a large difference. 
   
  As for how it compares to the BHSE, the DIY is nice step up but it should be for the cost.  It's at least 5k$ in the parts alone if you can even get them.  Not everybody is sitting on a few hundred 2SC3675's like I am...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Does anyone out there think that an all-solid-state amp design could, in theory, do justice to the 009s?


 
   
  Depends on what you mean, "do justice".  If you mean drive them to the full extent possible then the KGSSHV does fit the bill.  Ruthlessly revealing and with enough power to drive the headphones into oblivion.  Now if you want to "fix" the sound then things get a bit more complicated.  It's very easy to just dull down the top end to make it sound pleasant but that sort of defeats the purpose of the transducer design.  It takes a more delicate touch and the best I've heard was a refurbished SRA-12S preamp.  This is early 70's technology but the amp is a bit of an odd duck.  The input stage is driven from a rather nice PSU and is similar in many ways from the Hood class A amps from the same vintage.  Now the output stage is the truly odd one as it is basically a single ended triode but using a single bipolar transistor instead.  The stock KGSS is a also a good match given it's slightly warmer tone compared to the HV.  These are the two amps I used the most when I had the 009. 
   
  Quote: 





singh said:


> ^^ that makes me wonder ..why arnt LL guys here ?? I mean this is stax thread not BHSE thread , i dont see them defending LL here.
> Hmm OK.


 
   
  It's hard to talk up amps that supposedly work on magic pixie dust to rational people? 
   
  Quote: 





singh said:


> ah one more thing... Stax alpha pro and Gamma pro , whats the difference ?   ( i read they have same drivers as SR-X MK2 , correct me if wrong ) . they look alike.


 
   
  Same headphone, just Japan vs. Export names.  The normal bias models use the drivers from the SR-X Mk3, same as the SR-5N does.  Pro models use the same driver but with a different diaphragm and larger spacing.


----------



## dBel84

Quote: 





singh said:


> i dont see them defending LL here.


 
  the force is strong but the mind unwilling and those willing have no tongue , I will quote an unnamed, untamed heathen (  ) *xxx:* I'm sorry, this is BS: At minimum, the LL mk2 is equal to or better than the BHSE.  Some might prefer a more polite BH sound so I can see equity there based on taste, but the KGSSHV is totally outclassed by the LL mk2.  Somebody is talking out their ...


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's basically the ultimate expression of an all tube electrostatic amp with an EL34 based CCS for each output.  So that means 8 EL34's plus the input tubes.  The complexity of the filaments is in another league as the CCS EL34's cathodes are sitting on top of the output tubes so they will see a lot of voltage.  This violates the C-Fv so they need fully isolated transformers right next to the tubes.
> 
> This design was the fruit of a rather prolific few months when design after design was drawn up and then made ever more complex.  The output stage came from me cloning the RSA A-10 and trying to make something useable from that mess of a circuit and some good ideas from Kevin.  It may look like SRPP but it isn't as SRPP can't work for electrostatics.
> 
> ...





   
   
  ^^^ Loads of great and useful information^^^


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





dbel84 said:


> the force is strong but the mind unwilling and those willing have no tongue , I will quote an unnamed, untamed heathen (  ) *xxx:* I'm sorry, this is BS: At minimum, the LL mk2 is equal to or better than the BHSE.  Some might prefer a more polite BH sound so I can see equity there based on taste, *but the KGSSHV is totally outclassed by the LL mk2. * Somebody is talking out their ...


 
   




   
  So someone did a side by side?


----------



## Radio_head

Quote: 





singh said:


> ^^ that makes me wonder ..why arnt LL guys here ?? I mean this is stax thread not BHSE thread , i dont see them defending LL here.
> Hmm OK.


 
  The new LL hasn't been released in commercial form yet, and there are only 10 (If I remember correctly) of the first LL out there.  There are also threads dedicated to the LL if you search for them.  The general Stax thread is kind of like a small town that has gradually become a sprawling metropolis - there is a treasure trove of information but it can be hard to wade through and some people just give up after a while.
   
  On another note, the LL doesn't need "defense."  Something only _needs_ that if people are so caught up in other people's perception of what they themselves own or like that any time someone indicates they don't like it they take personal affront and must quickly return the salvo lest their precious gear be relegated second tier by the denizens of the internet.


----------



## givemevinyl

Quote: 





singh said:


> ^^ that makes me wonder ..why arnt LL guys here ?? I mean this is stax thread not BHSE thread , i dont see them defending LL here.
> Hmm OK.


 
   
  Uhm, no, by de facto, this actually is a BHSE/KG/et al thread.  It's just how this thread has developed.  No one familiar with anonymous forums should be surprised that it's a matter of who's most vocal and seemingly credible, and until there's an equally vocal and seemingly credible counterweight it will remain a BHSE/KG/et al thread, and frankly, more power to them.  C'est la vie.  No one thread has to be everything to everyone.  I, for one, am a fan of Cavalli amps and of Alex, and if I wanted to highlight one of his amps, then I would add to existing Cavalli threads or create one myself.  Given the tenor and history of this long-lasting thread, it would be spitting against the wind to advocate for Cavalli (amp or the man) in this thread.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





givemevinyl said:


> Uhm, no, by de facto, this actually is a BHSE/KG/et al thread.  It's just how this thread has developed.  No one familiar with anonymous forums should be surprised that it's a matter of who's most vocal and seemingly credible, and until there's an equally vocal and seemingly credible counterweight it will remain a BHSE/KG/et al thread, and frankly, more power to them.  C'est la vie.  No one thread has to be everything to everyone.  I, for one, am a fan of Cavalli amps and of Alex, and if I wanted to highlight one of his amps, then I would add to existing Cavalli threads or create one myself.  Given the tenor and history of this long-lasting thread, it would be spitting against the wind to advocate for Cavalli (amp or the man) in this thread.


 
  This is nonsensical -- and quite a weak way to defend Cavalli amps!


----------



## Radio_head

I don't think he was defending them, he was just saying those who do do so elsewhere.  You don't loudly proclaim your fanhood of Manchester United in a bar full of Liverpool fans unless you want to start a riot.  I would re-iterate that these amps really don't need defense (at least not from valid criticisms that aren't just speculation) unless they are a form of compensation.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





dbel84 said:


> the force is strong but the mind unwilling and those willing have no tongue , I will quote an unnamed, untamed heathen (  ) *xxx:* I'm sorry, this is BS: At minimum, the LL mk2 is equal to or better than the BHSE.  Some might prefer a more polite BH sound so I can see equity there based on taste, but the KGSSHV is totally outclassed by the LL mk2.  Somebody is talking out their ...


 
   
  Sounds like Biggie's highly opinionated BFF - I say his name every time I sneeze.
   
  So why does the new LL2 have a two in it?
  Did they finally fix the squealing power supply of the first model?
   
  EDIT: Or maybe I should ask - Is there a thread that discusses the improvements incorporated in the LL2? (other than the chassis)


----------



## givemevinyl

satorarepotenet said:


> This is nonsensical -- and quite a weak way to defend Cavalli amps!




You managed to not get my point and still prove it at the same time. Congrats!


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





givemevinyl said:


> You managed to not get my point and still prove it at the same time. Congrats!


 





ROFL


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





givemevinyl said:


> You managed to not get my point and still prove it at the same time. Congrats!


 
  I wasn't sure whether or not you would get it. Most of the time my humor flies under the radar here! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Of course, I was also partly serious, but that you surely got as well.
   
  All those amps and head phones should ideally be listened with “blindly,” just like wine lovers taste wine.


----------



## DefQon

This thread just got interesting.


----------



## wink

I think the basic problem with any amp is the difference between sound amplification/reproduction and sound coloration.
   
  Some people like an amp that colors their sound in a way that appeals to them.
   
  This is the antithesis of real high fidelity which demands that the signal/sound be reproduced as faithful as possible.
   
  The problem here is the weakest link in the chain which is the headphones/transducers.
   
  Amps that are designed to make up for the deficiency of the transducer are by their very nature deliberately colored, and hence not as Hi-Fi as they could be.
   
  Until a perfect transducer is manufactured we will be stuck with the problem of coloration of sonic reproduction.


----------



## DefQon

Don't think a perfect transducer can be achieved. Yet again nothing there is no such thing as perfect in this world, just a hyperbole thrown around to describe how well or exceptional something is - only to be outclassed by something better short while to come.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





wink said:


> I think the basic problem with any amp is the difference between sound amplification/reproduction and sound coloration.
> 
> Some people like an amp that colors their sound in a way that appeals to them.
> 
> ...


 
  I'm having a problem parsing this logic. There are two types of amps, colored and not colored; people like the colored amps because they make up for flawed headphones; all headphones are flawed, therefore all amps are colored


----------



## jcx

more like "not even wrong" - buying into a false world view to start
   
  its not clear that amps are often "synergistically colored" - flat frequency response seems to rule - those that aren't flat are more likely that way as a result of cost cutting, or oversight than a guru's intentional design choice
   
  only in a few cases - mostly SE tube amps - do amps have inherently high enough output Z to modify frequency response with some transducers - not all loads have bumpy Z
   
  ES headphones are pure C - no question of range of bumpy load Z vs frequency multi driver iem @ 20 Ohms nominal to a 300 Ohm with single 50% bass bump choice for the amp designer to "optimize" - either a ES amp can drive a ~100pF C or not (~ 70-200 pF range)


----------



## arnaud

Perfect and transducer is an oxymoron imo  It's all a matter of preferences and where you accept to compromise.
   
  I have much experience to gain in terms of differences between amps but my take so far has been to take a revealing transducer like the 009 (and HD800 before that) in priority and slightly (or not so slightly if you're focusing on the last 1-5% bit that make up the difference between high end rigs) alter its sound characteristic through a "colored" amp than the other way around. Motivation for me is that no matter the amp or source, you won't make up for what the transducer can't pass through (you can say the same thing about the source and the amp but by far the poorest link of all remains the transducer in terms of absolute objective performance).
   
  I know this is supposed to be a different story for estat where the amp matters much more but I am yet to be enlightened . There truly are dramatic differences between transducers (e.g. between lambda and omega series, or between Omega 2 and SR009), this isn't the last 5% bit, it is fundamental difference that absolutely anyone can pick within seconds, even non-audiophiles. Differences between sources (and stat amps I have listened to so far) are nowhere near that dramatic, but that's probably because I have a skewed vision (being the acoustic engineer at heart and ever so clueless about electronics no matter how thrilled I would be to understand more who these circuits work). 
   
  I guess everyone would be unbiased in an ideal world, but no matter how hard you try, everyone's got some reason to see things in their own quirky way. I absolutely respect Birgir's expertise and vast knowledge in stax gear. But, while I am quite resilient to audiofool voodoo, I still believe that synergy matters and no everything can be explained by objective performance. It seems any form of distortion, regardless of it being audible or not, is a complete no-no for Spritzer (and I understand given his heavy background in circuit design). Personally, I am less worried about measured distortion and other non-linearities in electronics than that in transducers, the latter being typically orders of magnitude larger than the former.
   
  My 2cts. anyway


----------



## wink

Quote:anetode 





> all headphones are flawed, therefore all amps are colored


 
  This is a non-sequitur.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





wink said:


> This is a non-sequitur.


 

 Exactly. It is a restatement of "until a perfect transducer is manufactured we will be stuck with the problem of coloration of sonic reproduction."
   
  This is an incorrect conclusion for three reasons,
   

 simple logical incongruity as outlined in my last post (a, not a, b; if a then b; if b then not a)
 we're not necessarily stuck with the problem of coloration since there are, by your admission, un-colored amps out there already
 we won't be un-stuck from the problem of coloration in the age of perfect transducers because some people will ultimately choose colored amps even when using perfect headphones


----------



## wink

Very astute.


----------



## DefQon

At the end of the day all that matters is what sounds good to the user. Until then, we may believe in any unicorn's and myths until subjectively and objectively proven. I'm sure all of us would love the perfect transducer, but it also got me thinking, the human hearing is not linear and varies between different age group, gender (or genetic's for that matter) amongst different individual's, I guess even with a perfect transducer being made it can still sound flawed to some (i.e. middle aged individual not being able to hear past a certain frequency) despite subjectively and objective proven by the masses that it is "perfect".


----------



## arnaud

This is turning into a vocabulary and logic contest.


----------



## DefQon

*Pulls out the dictionary*


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This is turning into a vocabulary and logic contest.


 
  Didn't quite mean to jump on it like that. This is what happens when I post something elsewhere minutes after making a post on sound science.


----------



## autoteleology

This thread makes me feel so bad about my little SRD-X Pro and vintage Lambda sometimes.


----------



## DefQon

Why's that?


----------



## wink

Not state of the art at it's bleeding edge.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





anetode said:


> Didn't quite mean to jump on it like that. This is what happens when I post something elsewhere minutes after making a post on sound science.


 
  No worries, it was more about wink with his non-sequitur and other astute words . Great practice anyhow so don't mind my comment


----------



## autoteleology

defqon said:


> Why's that?


 

   
  Heh. I feel like that little kid who is always trying to tag along with his big bro and his friends but isn't really cool enough to fit in.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> No worries, it was more about wink with his non-sequitur and other astute words . Great practice anyhow so don't mind my comment


 

 Oh I've fallen for worse on HF today. Thanks wink


----------



## DrForBin

hello,
   
  i find the discussion of various amps and their qualities/differences very interesting. i seems that the best way to sum it up is that everyone has a different ultimate reference and that slagging someone for their preference is like arguing that chocolate ice cream is (somehow) morally superior to vanilla and if you disagree, well then you are on the road to perdition. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  if it will link, i would offer this as a potentially enlightening bit of thought concerning taste in audio equipment:
   
  http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/magico-q5-loudspeaker-tas-214/
   
  the thoughts in paragraphs  2 to about 10 seem to help me with my perspective.
   
  cheers


----------



## wink

Quote:android 





> Oh I've fallen for worse on HF today. Thanks wink


 
  No problem, we keep each other honest.
   
  Quote:as above


> This is what happens when I post something elsewhere minutes after making a post on sound science.


 
  That's why I try to keep away from that forum.
   
  It's all too subjective for me.    (can't find my sarcasm meter)
   

   
  Found it!


----------



## gilency

Me likes the SR-009 with KGSSHV.


----------



## tiga3mata

spritzer said:


> It's basically the ultimate expression of an all tube electrostatic amp with an EL34 based CCS for each output.  So that means 8 EL34's plus the input tubes.  The complexity of the filaments is in another league as the CCS EL34's cathodes are sitting on top of the output tubes so they will see a lot of voltage.  This violates the C-Fv so they need fully isolated transformers right next to the tubes.
> 
> This design was the fruit of a rather prolific few months when design after design was drawn up and then made ever more complex.  The output stage came from me cloning the RSA A-10 and trying to make something useable from that mess of a circuit and some good ideas from Kevin.  It may look like SRPP but it isn't as SRPP can't work for electrostatics.




Sounds like a crazy over the top take no prisoner design and an estat fanboy's wet dream...... and with a name like MEGATRON...me want...!!


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





jcx said:


> ES headphones are pure C - no question of range of bumpy load Z vs frequency multi driver iem @ 20 Ohms nominal to a 300 Ohm with single 50% bass bump choice for the amp designer to "optimize" - either a ES amp can drive a ~100pF C or not (~ 70-200 pF range)


 
   
  Are they? I had read (from KG I think) that at low frequencies load Z is very very high, almost pure capacitative, but at high frequencies load Z begins to fall dramatically. Very similar to piezoelectric material properties, only without structural resonances causing impedance spikes.
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> This is turning into a vocabulary and logic contest.


 
   
  In science we call it linguistic masturbation.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Are they? I had read (from KG I think) that at low frequencies load Z is very very high, almost pure capacitative, but at high frequencies load Z begins to fall dramatically. Very similar to piezoelectric material properties, only without structural resonances causing impedance spikes.


 
   
  This is the definition of a capacitor. impedance is inversly proportional to frequency.
   
  the only inductance is that of the cable, and that only has an effect well into the megahertz range.


----------



## Beefy

Check check.


----------



## spritzer

Wink did touch on something important here, in the past Hifi meant, to borrow from Quad, the closest approach.  We are never going to recreate a live sound but we can get close.  In recent years this has changed, probably a reaction to the high feedback/loads of power movement of the 80's/90's where the specs were the only thing that mattered.  It's just supposed to sound "pleasant" which is all well and good but it's often used to hide equipment which is frankly sub par.
   
  The transducer is indeed the limiting factor in most systems but it is also the most varied component in terms of achieving good performance but also good specs.  You can have two speakers that measure quite well but sound very different from one another.  This is what the rest of the chain should help by passing the signal in the best way possible to the transducer.  An amplifier should just be wire with gain and enough power reserves and speed for it's drawbacks never to affect the transducers ability to recreate the signal. 
   
  There are always going to be limitations in terms of the technology used and the price point but that is the real key to engineering, make the most of what you have.  I love oddball designs so I'll never discourage them but they should be made as linear/good as is possible. 
   
  I'm all for discussion of new things but I'm skeptical by nature and I'm sure that applies to most of us here.  We aren't buying our first set of headphones or some are even at 100+ so a healthy dose of skepticism is always good.  Just take the King Sound Emperor, I'd be very happy if it turned out to be good but going by the clusterf*** that is their speakers I'm going to keep my excitement in check.  Regardless, I paid full retail price for my set to try and ditto on the Stax SRS-2170 to compare against it. 
   
  Same applies to the amps, I'm simply not swayed by a shiny box and I've designed enough to know about the multitude of pitfalls most designers haven't got a clue about.  These are things that you don't need to think about with "normal" amps but here they are a big deal.  I'm also all to familiar with the shady underbelly of this hobby where people get discounts in exchange for positive reviews which makes it much harder to trust what people are saying.  You see, it's not shilling if you just get a discount...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





tiga3mata said:


> Sounds like a crazy over the top take no prisoner design and an estat fanboy's wet dream...... and with a name like MEGATRON...me want...!!


 
   
  To be fair it is one of the most complicated amps you can build.  Each channel has 4 filament supplies you need to contend with, front end, output tubes and one each for the CCS tubes.  It will also run very, very hot but it is surprisingly small.  There is also the small issue of live AC in the amp chassis...


----------



## singh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Same headphone, just Japan vs. Export names.  The normal bias models use the drivers from the SR-X Mk3, same as the SR-5N does.  Pro models use the same driver but with a different diaphragm and larger spacing.


 
   
  Oh i meant the gamma pro sharing the same driver with SR-x MK3 pro ( sorry got that wrong ). I have heard people putting in gamma pro's driver in to SRXmk3 (NB ) and saying its SRX MK3 pro.
   
  How's the sound of Gamma pro ? is the SR_X Mk3 pro that better ( than gamma pro ) that people go though the risky process of swapping drivers ?


----------



## DefQon

I have a pair of Gamma Pro's with the Alpha Pads, it's not the best e-stat out of the Stax range but it is very musical, quite rare as well. Some people like putting the Gamma Pro drivers into the SRX MK3 to either it makes the sound bit better or higher resale value due to the rarity of the MK3 pro's in the market, they use the same drivers just different enclosure and housing.


----------



## El_Doug

I was under the impression that the Alphas were identical to the Gammas, except for the pads - so what you have are a pair of Excellents, perhaps with the wrong logo printed on them  
   
  Whatever you do, do not let anyone butcher those poor cans.  The Alpha/Gammas are wonderful headphones, and Spritzer is definitely going to hell for his role in encouraging so many people to cannibalize them for their drivers
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> I have a pair of Gamma Pro's with the Alpha Pads, it's not the best e-stat out of the Stax range but it is very musical, quite rare as well. Some people like putting the Gamma Pro drivers into the SRX MK3 to either it makes the sound bit better or higher resale value due to the rarity of the MK3 pro's in the market, they use the same drivers just different enclosure and housing.


----------



## DefQon

Actually it's hard to tell what they are now and I've been using faust3d's Wikiphonia as a guide for finding vintage collectibles.
   
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=SR-%CE%B1_PRO_Excellent
   
  I originally purchased it with the SRD-X Pro adaptor's but I sold them off for cheap as I didn't need them. Then I managed to get another Gamma Pro from the same seller but without box, condition wasn't as good and the pads were the normal oval pads seen on most Gamma's.
   
  Besides some flaking on the topside of the headband, mine is fairly NOS with foam intact and everything, no signs of previous tampering at all.
   
  Pictures taken while ago as I was going to sell them to another buyer. I'm glad I didn't because it would be extremely hard for me to find a pair in this condition and the price I purchased them for.
   
  I have done AB comparison against the other Gamma Pro with oval pads, this one sounded more forward but not bright at all, bass extension is superb makes my Lambda Pro's sound extremely laid back in comparison. All this attributing improvements could be due to the pads, which are soft and moulds right over your ears.


----------



## milosz

> As for how it compares to the BHSE, the DIY is nice step up but it should be for the cost.  It's at least 5k$ in the parts alone if you can even get them. * Not everybody is sitting on a few hundred 2SC3675's like I am*...


 
   
  Isn't that rather uncomfortable?  Is there a shortage of comfy chairs in Iceland?


----------



## wink

Solid state seating is very comfortable. Not like those hot tubes.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> I was under the impression that the Alphas were identical to the Gammas, except for the pads - so what you have are a pair of Excellents, perhaps with the wrong logo printed on them
> 
> Whatever you do, do not let anyone butcher those poor cans.  The Alpha/Gammas are wonderful headphones, and Spritzer is definitely going to hell for his role in encouraging so many people to cannibalize them for their drivers


 
   
  Hey!!!!   I just sold one Alpha Pro Excellent that was completely untouched.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I did take the headband apart to fix the flaking though as black dandruff isn't too cool.  
   
  The other Alpha Pro Excellent wasn't so fortunate though...


----------



## DefQon

Poor Alpha Pro Excellent ~ _R.I.P._


----------



## rawrster

Probably a silly question but the pads that come with the sr007a now is black right? I don't really like how the brown pads look

i haven't been able to find a used pair and might end up buying one from pricejapan soon. 1k more for the us version is too much of a difference


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





> Probably a silly question but the pads that come with the sr007a now is black right? I don't really like how the brown pads look
> 
> i haven't been able to find a used pair and might end up buying one from pricejapan soon. 1k more for the us version is too much of a difference


 
  brown pads are brown 
   
  iirc yes, they're black.


----------



## TMRaven

Can you guys tell me if the black SR-007 are made of plastic or aluminum frame?


----------



## padam

Any kind of SR007 has an aluminium frame.


----------



## TMRaven

Ok, great.


----------



## realmassy

I'm thinking of buying a SRM 727, whose voltage is set to 220. 
I'm in UK and here Stax amps are sold with a 240 voltage. My current Stax amp is labelled as 240v (the 220v is clearly not checked so I assume the internals are different). Any problem?


----------



## kevin gilmore

so here are the thoughts on this
   
  there are 2 sets of windings on the transformers, both labeled 0,100,120
   
  for 120 vac (usa and others) the 0 and 120 sets of windings are in parallel
   
  for 240vac (Germany and others) the 0 and 120 sets of windings are in series
   
  for 100 vac (japan and others) the 0 and 100 sets of windings are in parallel
   
   
  every time in the past I have seen units set for 220, they are actually set for 240v
   
  but in theory you could wire 0 to to 100 to 0 to 120 and get 220v
  but I have not seen that done yet.
   
  you should open up your current unit and check.


----------



## realmassy

Thanks Mr Gilmore, much appreciated. I'll ask the seller to take a picture.


----------



## spritzer

The old voltage selectors Stax used had a selection for 220V but I haven't seen it used in a long time.  Some of the amps from the 80's were setup this way before the EU raised the voltage to 230V.


----------



## shipsupt

Now, if only the UK power company would follow the EU standard!  I'm still seeing over 240V at my mains at times.


----------



## Chris J

shipsupt said:


> Now, if only the UK power company would follow the EU standard!  I'm still seeing over 240V at my mains at times.




If you expect to see 230 Vac and you sometimes see 240 Vac I wouldn't sweat it , it's only 4% high.


----------



## shipsupt

Absolutely, and also well within the specification which allows up to 10% high.  On the other hand the current standard only allows them to be under by 6%, although this is expected to be widened to +/- 10% in the near future.


----------



## DefQon

Same thing here down with my mains, I've measured it before and fluctuates between 242 and 243. Supposedly the Australian power rating changed to 230v while ago. Who knows.


----------



## davidsh

Hello there!
   
  Finally have the opportunity to get some older Stax for what I think would be a very reasonable price. Well here it is:
   
  Stax SRM-T1 and Stax SR-Lambda Signature for barely 700$
   
  What do you think? I am not exactly in need of a new system or anything, not at all actually 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  But I have always been drawn towards Stax. Anything I should be aware of before buying?
   
  Hope you might help me out here... so I can be a happy camper for a couple of more months before the next big purchase 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Also posted this in another thread, kinda forgot about this dedicated stax thread. Sorry for that to anyone who might be offended...


----------



## n3rdling

That's a very good deal on a great pairing.


----------



## davidsh

I think I will pull the trigger if I can rest assured that I can sell it again without losing on it.
   
  How will the T1 do with some of the newer and perhaps more hi-end Stax? Like sr-007 for example...


----------



## Chris J

Anyone have any experience with the Stax SR-2170 system?
  I'm thinking about taking the plunge into Stax world.
  I just sold a pair of Signet TK33 Electrets a few weeks ago and I miss them, even with all their flaws.


----------



## shipsupt

It's a great start. It sent me down the stat path, but I still keep it. 

I use the amp every day on my desk at work with SR-002 and I mostly use the 207's when testing DIY or stuff that I "fixed".


----------



## rawrster

So I've began my entrance into the Stax world. I bought a SRM323S amp and then more recently a SR007 MK1. I already have the amp but the headphone will probably be here by the end of the week.
   
  I'm pretty much done with dynamics/orthos but I'll keep my HD800 rig and have the O2 there as well. They do sound different so hopefully the pair goes well together.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> So I've began my entrance into the Stax world. I bought a SRM323S amp and then more recently a SR007 MK1. I already have the amp but the headphone will probably be here by the end of the week.
> 
> I'm pretty much done with dynamics/orthos but I'll keep my HD800 rig and have the O2 there as well. They do sound different so hopefully the pair goes well together.


 
  Keep 'em both if you can manage it. Trust me.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Hello there!
> 
> Finally have the opportunity to get some older Stax for what I think would be a very reasonable price. Well here it is:
> 
> ...


 

 Please, I need some convincing


----------



## wink

Don't listen to your wallet.
  All is good.
   
   
  Repeat until you're convinced....


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Keep 'em both if you can manage it. Trust me.


 
  Oh I plan to. I sold off almost everything else off to keep both rigs.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Please, I need some convincing


 
  Hows this - ill buy them!


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





singh said:


> Hows this - ill buy them!


 

 Actually it helps a bit. But I think the delivery would be ever so slightly costly, since they are to be found here in Denmark... What do you think would be a typical price for such a setup in good condition? I am thinking 600$ for the amp and 2-300$ for the headphones after researching. Still, I am beginning to doubt...


----------



## Michgelsen

I bought that same combo (SRM-T1 + SR-Lambda Signature) locally some years ago for € 750 IIRC. $ 700 seems like a very good price to me, provided they're both in good condition of course.
   
  The SRM-T1 will do very well with any Staxen from the Lambda series, but I found the SR-007 too bassy and woolly on it. I was especially fond of the SRM-T1 and SR-202 combination.


----------



## singh

if its lambda signature ( not LNS, not 404 signature, the original signature) .. and in good condition ( without dents on the driver mesh ) .. 300+
  and around 400 for T1 is a good price (if recapped then even better)


----------



## Michgelsen

Only $ 400 for a T1? That's cheap if you ask me. Though indeed after all those years a recap couldn't hurt.


----------



## grokit

Just want to chime in and say that I'm very pleased with the cable replacement that Accutech/Yama's Inc./Stax USA (all the same outfit apparently) performed on my SR-009. The repair was done quicker than expected, they did a great job, and they gave me a significant "one-time discount" on the uber-expensive cable that probably had more to do with the current exchange rate than with my begging for special consideration as an animal lover.


----------



## davidsh

A recap shouldn't cost much, I guess. After all it is only 3 or 4 capacitors that should be changed. Thank you for your help! I am positive that setup would get me further than spending 1k$ on new equipment. In other words, I suppose I would have a setup rivaling my HE-500 setup 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Anyway, it seems to be a good price, though not spectacular. I think it is almost mint condition. The seller states it look like new...
   
  Oh well, again thank you. I guess it's up to me now.


----------



## miceblue

singh said:


> if its lambda signature ( not LNS, not 404 signature, the original signature) .. and in good condition ( without dents on the driver mesh ) .. 300+
> and around 400 for T1 is a good price (if recapped then even better)




What if the mesh is falling apart? Is that only on the earpad, which is replaceable?


----------



## MrViolin

http://www.head-fi.org/t/666512/stax-o2-system-sr007-mk1-headphone-and-srm-007t-amplifier
  curse my broke crack.
   
   


> Don't listen to your wallet.
> All is good.
> 
> 
> Repeat until you're convinced....


 

  Wise words from the woeful wink


----------



## singh

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What if the mesh is falling apart? Is that only on the earpad, which is replaceable?


 
  am not talking about the foam filter... the metal mesh.


----------



## davidsh

If I had the money I could also buy a sr-007 mk2 and a Woo Wee energizer for 1900$ locally. Ohh god this hobby is killing me
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Even tried the setup once..


----------



## singh

This looks good on the first glance.. but be aware .. it says " _[size=x-small]....Last year they had new diaphragms / speaker[/size]_[size=x-small] ...."[/size]
   
  The new drivers must be from 407/404 ... i doubt stax is stocking such old drivers.
   
  anyone bidding, take notice.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





singh said:


> This looks good on the first glance.. but be aware .. it says " _[size=x-small]....Last year they had new diaphragms / speaker[/size]_[size=x-small] ...."[/size]
> 
> The new drivers must be from 407/404 ... i doubt stax is stocking such old drivers.
> 
> anyone bidding, take notice.


 
  They Should be 407 drivers


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Actually it helps a bit. But I think the delivery would be ever so slightly costly, since they are to be found here in Denmark... What do you think would be a typical price for such a setup in good condition? I am thinking 600$ for the amp and 2-300$ for the headphones after researching. Still, I am beginning to doubt...


 
  The Lambda Signature alone is worth about $500.  Like I said earlier, you're getting a very good deal.


----------



## steve2151

I picked up a recapped SRM1MK2 and a SR-404 from the sale forums last week and I can say that the Stax sound is addictive. I like the transient speed/liquid decay and find the treble to be extended yet smooth. Basically a bigger Ety ER4S with less listening fatigue.
   
  The SR-404 could use a bit more sub bass impact and possibly a touch more forwardness in the lower mids, but other than that, no complaints. 

 I've been looking at a SR-007MK2 and may pull the trigger if I can sell off some of my unused gear.


----------



## ktm

Not a bad combo. I had the same for a while. I stuck with a 202 which has less sparkle, but less of the bad treble energy.


----------



## DefQon

Lambda Signature's go for $400+ not 300, more so than the LNS that I've observed over the past few months.
   
  T1's go for around $350-600 depending on the condition and abuse.
   
  @davidsh: I don't want to speak for spritzer but he'll probably recommend the same, you're gonna have to recap the T1 caps to the same rated or higher rated ones, replace any diodes or resistors, might need to re-wire the transformer to the correct AC rating, you may need to re-bias the tubes which has to be done manually from what I've learnt. To get a T1 whipped back in shape, it does take time and effort as well as money to get it good and going again as it is an old amp, otherwise a good price but you never know the amount of abuse it has gone through with the previous owner. 
   
  Then there is the possibility of channel imbalance with the old Stax stuff which cannot be fixed except replacing it.
   
  @singh: I'm bidding on those as well.


----------



## miceblue

How does the Lambda Signature compare to the SR-207?

I tried a Lambda Signature and really liked it, but I might get the SR-2170.


----------



## DefQon

The 2170 is a good start with the 207 a bit more energetic sounding (not really bright or treble etched in anyway). Haven't heard the LS but some people prefer it to the LNS which is supposedly fairly neutral with the former a bit brighter sounding.


----------



## mechgamer123

I'm thinking of taking the dip into stats as well, though I'm not sure how I've heard a lot of talk about a couple of the models, I'm not totally sure which one to get or whether I'd even like them or not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Currently I have the Mad Dog T50RPs, and I do find them a bit too dark sometimes for some music.
  So basically what Stax should I look for that are fairly linear, not too bright, and have good bass extension (I just wanna be able to hear it, no need to shake my head around).


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> How does the Lambda Signature compare to the SR-207?
> 
> I tried a Lambda Signature and really liked it, but I might get the SR-2170.


 
  LS (PVC dust cover version) is the most high resolution, balanced, realistic, musical,& refined lambda. and it's one of the best headphone.
  tier 1.5:LS(woven nylon dust cover), LNS , Lambda Pro
  tier 2 : 407/507
  tier 2.5:207


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> LS (PVC dust cover version) is the most high resolution, balanced, realistic, musical,& refined lambda.
> tier 1.5:woven nylon LS , LNS, Lambda Pro
> tier 2 : 407/507
> 3:207


 
  All LNS and LP's are the same thing regardless of what type of dust protector it has on the back of stator.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> I'm thinking of taking the dip into stats as well, though I'm not sure how I've heard a lot of talk about a couple of the models, I'm not totally sure which one to get or whether I'd even like them or not
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  SR-007mk1's.


----------



## pkshan

Don't touch O2mk1 if you don't have a very powerful amp,
  an underpowered O2mk1 sound far worse than the LNS,
  sounds like plastic when comparing it to the best LS(PVC dust cover)


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  -_-
   
  I'm a college student to-be. AKA poor. I can afford some sort of ~$5-600 setup, but the TOTL stax are still out of the question, lol


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Don't touch O2mk1 if you don't have a very powerful amp,
> an underpowered O2mk1 sound far worse than the LNS,
> sound like plastic when comparing it to the best LS(PVC dust cover)


 
  lol this is true.
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> -_-
> 
> I'm a college student to-be. AKA poor. I can afford some sort of ~$5-600 setup, but the TOTL stax are still out of the question, lol


 
  $5-600 only the SR-2170 system package fits the budget or a used Koss ESP950 system which sounds good too. Unless you want to go for vintage Stax, there are lot of things that come into mind to be aware of such as any channel imbalance, condition etc...


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The Lambda Pro introduced me to electrostats, it's not perfect but I couldn't believe how well it competed with my much more expensive dynamic headphones.


----------



## pkshan

Even the LNS, sounds a little plastic too.
   
  The lambda series(or the whole Stax company), is getting worse after 1994.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That was what I was thinking, either vintage stax or a 2170 setup.
  I'm not sure what vintage cans to look for though, or if I'd even like the 207...


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Lambda Signature's go for $400+ not 300, more so than the LNS that I've observed over the past few months.
> 
> T1's go for around $350-600 depending on the condition and abuse.
> 
> ...


 
  Oh well... I don't have the gear to service such an amp. How would I know what should be replaced? Measuring with a multi-meter?
  That write up above is really appreciated!


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> LS (PVC dust cover version) is the most high resolution, balanced, realistic, musical,& refined lambda. and it's one of the best headphone.
> tier 1.5:LS(woven nylon dust cover), LNS , Lambda Pro
> tier 2 : 407/507
> tier 2.5:207


 

 Glad to hear that! Hearing some negatives about the midrange and treble being etchy, though..


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Glad to hear that! Hearing some negatives about the midrange and treble being etchy, though..


 
   
  If the tier 1.5 headphones don't have these problem (etch,plastic-like), they will be tier 1
  the PVC LS just did everything right (best basses, best vocal (haven't heard lambda NB yet), best highs(in lambda family),high resolution,large soundstage,sounds full & lush, no etch)
   
  1989-1992 was the golden age of headphones,
  Sennheiser HD560 (1989, best $300-500 dynamic headphone)
  AKG K1000(1990)
  Sony R10 (1988)
  Etymotic ER4 (1991)
  Sennheise HE90/60 (1991,1993)
  Grado HP1000 (1990)
  Stax PVC LS (1989-1993?)
   
  they are closest to the perfection,no compromise,
  but some of these great headphones got a short life


----------



## Chris J

mechgamer123 said:


> That was what I was thinking, either vintage stax or a 2170 setup.
> I'm not sure what vintage cans to look for though, or if I'd even like the 207...




The problem with anything vintage is there is nor warranty and it might need some repair, refurb, etc.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Oh well... I don't have the gear to service such an amp. How would I know what should be replaced? Measuring with a multi-meter?
> That write up above is really appreciated!


 
   
  You can bring the amp to a local technician to be serviced. It's not very complex; he will be able to service it. Furthermore, Spritzer or Kevin Gilmore will undoubtedly have the schematics of the amp to make it easier for the technician. I had my SRM-T1 fixed by a local audio/tv repairman when it wouldn't switch on anymore. For € 65 he fixed the problem (resistors that had aged out of spec IIRC) and replaced the capacitors. But many SRM-T1s should work just fine without servicing. Rebiasing the tubes can be easily done by yourself with a cheap multimeter. The instructions have been given many times around here: run a search for 'biasing SRM-T1' or similar search terms and you should find it. Rewiring the transformer will most certainly not be necessary. Not only are you buying locally, the SRM-T1 also has a switch to change the voltage.
   
  On a different note, the SRM-T1 is the same amp as what Stax now calls the SRM-006t(II/S).
   
  What Defqon says is true, you are buying old equipment which can have problems, but usually everything is fine. I wouldn't worry about it too much, but yes, it is a small risk. If something breaks, it can easily be repaired. The T1 is a good amp for Lambda's, so if you are not completely happy with the Lambda Signatures, you can always try different headphones with it. The Lambda Signatures are not necessarily the best Lambda's. Many think so, but this is of course highly subjective. I disagree to be honest.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> If the tier 1.5 headphones don't have these problem (etch,plastic-like), they will be tier 1
> the PVC LS just did everything right (best basses, best vocal (haven't heard lambda NB yet), best highs(in lambda family),high resolution,large soundstage,sounds full & lush, no etch)
> 
> 1989-1992 was the golden age of headphones,
> ...


 

 Might I ask why you say PVC Lambda Signature?
   
  Also, this thread makes me a bit nervous: http://www.head-fi.org/t/263364/im-getting-lambda-signatures-how-good-are-they/30


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> You can bring the amp to a local technician to be serviced. It's not very complex; he will be able to service it. Furthermore, Spritzer or Kevin Gilmore will undoubtedly have the schematics of the amp to make it easier for the technician. I had my SRM-T1 fixed by a local audio/tv repairman when it wouldn't switch on anymore. For € 65 he fixed the problem (resistors that had aged out of spec IIRC) and replaced the capacitors. But many SRM-T1s should work just fine without servicing. Rebiasing the tubes can be easily done by yourself with a cheap multimeter. The instructions have been given many times around here: run a search for 'biasing SRM-T1' or similar search terms and you should find it. Rewiring the transformer will most certainly not be necessary. Not only are you buying locally, the SRM-T1 also has a switch to change the voltage.
> 
> On a different note, the SRM-T1 is the same amp as what Stax now calls the SRM-006t(II/S).
> 
> What Defqon says is true, you are buying old equipment which can have problems, but usually everything is fine. I wouldn't worry about it too much, but yes, it is a small risk. If something breaks, it can easily be repaired. The T1 is a good amp for Lambda's, so if you are not completely happy with the Lambda Signatures, you can always try different headphones with it. The Lambda Signatures are not necessarily the best Lambda's. Many think so, but this is of course highly subjective. I disagree to be honest.


 

 Loads of thanks for your help, pretty much all of you in the thread.
   
  There are some differences between T1 and 006t, but afaik it is only balanced inputs and some other minor stuff...


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Might I ask why you say PVC Lambda Signature?
> 
> Also, this thread makes me a bit nervous: http://www.head-fi.org/t/263364/im-getting-lambda-signatures-how-good-are-they/30


 
  PVC

   
   
  woven nylon


----------



## davidsh

So are there different versions?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> So are there different versions?


 
  Woven nylon tend to sound harsh in some high frequencies


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> Woven nylon tend to sound harsh in some high frequencies


 
   
  plshan, this is all very interesting but are you affirmative about this observation? By this, I mean is this really the only difference between the units and, if so, can this really be attributed to the dust cover rather than natural variations between units / pads aging and such?
   
  Reason why I am skeptical is that this woven nylon is pretty darn close to acoustically transparent. Absolutely no way this could cause extra resonances in the treble region. Driver / ear spacing, diaphragm tensioning, diaphragm material on the other hand surely could be responsible for perceived differences.
   
  Other reason I am skeptical is that I haven't ever read such classification within the lambda series and some guys on this board have seen a fair share of units passing through their hands.
   
  If you're so strong about the classification, it means you've heard multiple samples of the two configurations and systematically made the same observations, is that so?


----------



## DefQon

It's incredible how you're able to hear differences of sound between different dust covers used on the back when nobody else can. You must really have golden ears pkshan.


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> plshan, this is all very interesting but are you affirmative about this observation? By this, I mean is this really the only difference between the units and, if so, can this really be attributed to the dust cover rather than natural variations between units / pads aging and such?
> 
> Reason why I am skeptical is that this woven nylon is pretty darn close to acoustically transparent. Absolutely no way this could cause extra resonances in the treble region. Driver / ear spacing, diaphragm tensioning, diaphragm material on the other hand surely could be responsible for perceived differences.
> 
> ...


 
  both of my LS use 507 leather pads,
  the difference is huge, one of my friend heard the PVC lambda, then he thought the woven nylon lambda is broken (sound thin, & etch)


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> It's incredible how you're able to hear differences of sound between different dust covers used on the back when nobody else can. You must really have golden ears pkshan.


 
  My grandma can't even hear the fire alarm, it's outside our home!
  I am sure the HD800 and HD650 sound the same to her
   
  you may find a hearing doctor and measure your ears


----------



## shipsupt

pkshan said:


> both of my LS use 507 leather pads,
> the difference is huge, one of my friend heard the PVC lambda, then he thought the woven nylon lambda is broken (sound thin, & etch)




Maybe that particular headphone is broken. Have you compared several samples?


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Maybe that particular headphone is broken. Have you compared several samples?


 
  Not yet, but you can see some LS users here are also complaining that their headphone have thin bass & etchy
  the PVC LS also sound a little better than the LNS/lambda pro, way better than the 407/507


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> the difference is huge, one of my friend heard the PVC lambda, then he thought the woven nylon lambda is broken (sound thin, & etch)


 
   
  And pkshan swings wildly with a pointless anecdote!
   
  Quote: 





pkshan said:


> you may find a hearing doctor and measure your ears


 
   
  And pkshan is on the offensive with a baseless personal insult!


----------



## davidsh

If they sound etchy and thin I don't think it is for me...


----------



## pkshan

My friend he owns the O2mk1/407/LNS,(I sold him the 407 & LNS, all our lambdas use 507 leather pads)
   
  Both of us agreed that the 407/LNS sound better than the O2mk1 on his 007TA
  (the O2mk1 is slow, muddy,veiled on the 007TA)
  the woven Nylon LS sound clean & clear, but it's somewhat etchy,
   
  Then we heard the PVC LS, the sound is jaw dropping,
  the PVC LS has the fullness smooth sound of LNS, the resolution & timbre of nylon LS , the bass impact of 507,soundstage is the largest,
  it has the best bass texture,best vocal,highs and more..
  it is significantly better than any other stax we heard


----------



## davidsh

Better hope it's the PVC version I am getting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Sure it's not the pads, have you tried swapping? Pads can make a BIG difference speaking from experience. Also, can you post a picture that isn't as close-up? Would be very nice..


----------



## pkshan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Better hope it's the PVC version I am getting
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  The PVC LS was come with the 404 pads, the 404 pads sound sweeter, but dirtier,
   
  507 leather pads are good, better sound textures, clear ,transparent sound
  all our lambdas use 507 leather pads


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> The PVC LS was come with the 404 pads, the 404 pads sound sweeter, but dirtier,
> 
> 507 leather pads are good, better sound textures, clear ,transparent sound
> all our lambdas use 507 leather pads


 
  Interesting.. I recently heard about a fellow head-fier changing from old grado pads to new grado pads complaining quite a lot about the very apparent lack of bass. Funny what pads can do...


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> If they sound etchy and thin I don't think it is for me...


 
   
  The Lambda Pro is not that. Dynamic and musical, slightly V-shaped signature.


----------



## davidsh

It's the lambda signature


----------



## Cante Ista

Wow, this is a long thread! While I have subscribed to some other Stax threads, I will start following this as it seems to be the most active. Hoping for a Stax set up a year or two down the road. For now just trying to stay current on the info related to electorstats, Stax and best amps. My dream set up is the BHSE and 009, but I would have to rob a bank or at least sell my car to afford that. I am not willing to sacrifice my daughter's collage fund and dont want to buy used. This will def be a marathon. I hope I don't get distracted and buy other crap in the mean time -- delaying my Stax purchase. BTW, I noticed that I may have a cable fetish. Many are expensive and give you very least bang for the buck, but they are in a price rage that i can drop at once -- unlike the STAXes.  Anyway, i digress. This was a long was of saying, subscribed! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will not try to get through all of the 1510 pages. But from now on, I will follow on your all's impressions.
   
  PS. Sorry for the rambling post. it was very cathartic for me.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> you may find a hearing doctor and measure your ears


 
   
  I have measured my ears before prior to having my impressions done twice for the two CIEM's I've owned in the past, namely the UE18 and ES5's and I can tell you for my young age (as expected) my hearing is almost perfect for the tests conducted per percentile or in other words I have very good hearing.
   
  Ok guys so let's get this straight, pkshan here claim's he can hear differences between two of the same model Lambda's with two of the same headphones having different dust protectors on the back. He claim's that the PVC or Nylon dust filter is better sounding then the former or latter. He state's it as if it is *fact* in response to other's who question about the sound of the Lambda Signature's. Further more this is only his personal findings possibly under heavy placebo or bias or other mix bags thrown into the equation.
   
  He is unseemingly trying to convince other's buying the headphone to buy the Nylon/PVC dust filter one due to it's superiority in sound differences, again his personal findings but he state's it as if it is fact. It seem's that for such differences to exhibit from dust filters, pkshan's ears are a better measuring tool than the professional tools used to measure earspeakers for consistency and linearity in sound by the expert engineers at Stax.
   
  Not to mention, Birgir (i.e Spritzer) who probably has heard/owned more Stax gear than everyone put together in this thread even confirmed to pkshan's past findings that there is no difference between early / later serial based earspeakers from the same model of the Lambda frame family (unless that is, the tranducers itself have been replaced with a different model).
   
  To summarise and taking what I said before, pkshan has golden ears.


----------



## n3rdling

Keep in mind it's the same guy who described vast differences between the T1 amp with the last 4" of transformer wire modified.  Wind a transformer or two to get an idea of whether or not this tiny change (in comparison to total wire length) will result in his perceived massive sound differences.  He's more in the camp of a romythecat/patrick82 audiophile, and there's nothing wrong with that, but we need to be honest with our comparisons.  Anything less is a slap in the face to the other spectrum of audiophiles, which for whatever reason seems to get a negative stigma.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> He's more in the camp of a romythecat/patrick82 audiophile, and there's nothing wrong with that, but we need to be honest with our comparisons.  Anything less is a slap in the face to the other spectrum of audiophiles, which for whatever reason seems to get a negative stigma.


 
  Absolutely!
   
  Nothing wrong with perceived differences he has as his own personal findings each to his own, but when users go out there way stating little to no differences there to be a big difference as if it is fact, this will only generate noise and this will only confuse other's reading or contributing especially newer members want to get into the Stax game. I mean it's not like we are comparing two different headphones, we are comparing two versions of the same headphone with a minimal difference that is there in the first place to protect the drivers from dust not improve/lower sound quality. But all the power to him and his golden ear's. I certainly wish I had one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  P.S: At least patrick82 was funny, one could not simply tell whether he was trolling the cable fanatics out there or being serious. It's like that scene with the Joker in the Batman movie.


----------



## davidsh

He might very well perceive a difference. Not necessarily something that has to do with the dustcovers, though.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Keep in mind it's the same guy who described vast differences between the T1 amp with the last 4" of transformer wire modified.


 
   
  Oooooh, oooooh, don't forget that he thinks that the sound of solder joints changing over time!


----------



## wink

I envy the dude.....
   
  Sounds like neptius.....    ahhh, the memories.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Oooooh, oooooh, don't forget that he thinks that the sound of solder joints changing over time!


 
  Hey you're forgetting the fact he brought up burn-in brings large improvements to stats over a few thousand hours.
   
  also
   
  Might've been him or somebody else, but somebody mentioned rolling the pro-bias connectors for Justin's one improves sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Honestly:


----------



## Lil' Knight

defqon said:


> Might've been him or somebody else, but somebody mentioned rolling the pro-bias connectors for Justin's one improves sound.




Nope, not him. The guy who claimed changing Stax jacks makes difference in sound also thought that Rudistor made the best headamp ever.

Seriously watching lolcats is more fun than reading those kinds of post.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> He might very well perceive a difference. Not necessarily something that has to do with the dustcovers, though.


 
  I think this very well may be the case.  He's hearing a big difference between the two headphones and automatically deducing that the dust covers are the cause.  If they were both new headphones that would be more believable but these are old headphones so there's a good chance there could be something wrong with his "lesser" version that has nothing to do with the dust covers.  The fact that nobody else has ever said anything about this makes me believe this is probably what's happening.


----------



## davidsh

Yet another question from the Newb 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I know this: The amp of the T1 is the same as the amp inside 006t, but there are different connections, design and etc. Anywayz, what's the difference between the 006t and 006t mk2? And again 006ts?
  I can't clearly find the information anywhere...


----------



## edstrelow

Quote: 





pkshan said:


> My friend he owns the O2mk1/407/LNS,(I sold him the 407 & LNS, all our lambdas use 507 leather pads)
> 
> Both of us agreed that the 407/LNS sound better than the O2mk1 on his 007TA
> (the O2mk1 is slow, muddy,veiled on the 007TA)
> ...


 
  I don't have any problem with your observations.  These forums are after all all about subjective preferences although I trust the reports of some people who I know or have followed for some time, more than others. However, in then end the issue is what I observe.  Could different dust covers make phones sound different? Possibly.  I know that when I removed dust covers from Koss electrostatics, they sounded brighter.  I would ultimately want to hear these for myself or see reports by other users.
   
  I don't care much as to what the apparent "consensus" is.  I have seen  "flavor of the month" fads in these columns where numbers of people people pile on for or against something and later another consensus is reached. A case in point is your comment about the O2Mk1. I recall when I wanted to buy these some years back and held back because there was a significant amount of critical comment somewhat as you describe, of the 002 being too dark,  mostly from persons using them with Stax tube amps. Over time these criticisms have declined, possibly because more people are using better tube amps such as the Woo and BHSE, or the 717 transistor amp which has a larger voltage swing.  At any rate now the 007Mk1 is considered by many to be preferable to the current editions.


----------



## konagold

Hi
   
  I picked up a SRM-1/MK2 Pro (series A) off of ebay for $299. It had been stored away for at least 10 years (lots 'o dust!). Cleaned it and it works. It's dead silent, no hum at all.
   
  I now want to do a full refurb. I've seen the post(s) on replacing the power caps but don't know what else to check/replace.
   
  What voltages should I check and where? Replace all caps? resistors? diodes? what brands/series? anything else ......
   
  I've searched these forums for a few days and have found bits and pieces but not enough info to avoid reinventing the wheel.
   
  Any help would be appreciated.
   
  Thanks in advance.
   
  BTW: I found schematics for this box, quite comfortable with HV, soldering etc.


----------



## rgs9200m

Just a note about my 009s; they seem to be getting better and better now that I've had them for about a year, with the notorious brightness disappearing to the point 
  where I only hear it on about 20% of my recordings (all CD/SACD). (I hope it's not just my hearing, but all my dynamics sound about the same.)
  And I can turn the volume up really high if I want. I just was curious if anyone else noticed this too so I can verify that it's not just me adapting to the sound.
   
  They do sure sound different than my dynamics which I also love, but they are becoming more awesome all the time.
  For the record, they sound best with discs that sound a bit toned down or even muddled a bit on the dynamics, like my DCC CDs which
  are more warmly mastered. The bass on these could be sort of loose, but not on the 009s, where it's perfect (along with the highs, which go way up there in a very nice way).
   
  SACDs are great also.
   
  I'm just rambling here from some lack of sleep from listening too far into the night, but the 009s just open up a new world of insight, articulateness, and beautiful non-analytic detail on all sorts 
  of old familiar music as if I'm hearing it for the first time. Sometimes a sound widget appears so clearly it's shocking, and I need to re-start the track just to hear this thing again,
  and it's a real thrill ride, fast and furious. It is like being in a speeding car I guess. 
   
  I guess I can see why some well known people here moved on from them, but for me, I think they mellowed out a bit and maybe I came to crave what they can do and
  now I can't get enough of them. It may be analogous to the way some Senn HD600/650 aficionados could not accept the HD800s, but with some upstream tweaking,
  some long-term break-in, and maybe some ear/brain adjustment, I found the rewards to be great.
   
  And now I can't wait to hear what this or that CD sounds like to see what I can discover. They are just so much fun. The 009s are real joy, 100% addictive.
   
  I now officially love my 009s to death.


----------



## davidsh

Ohh, how do I know if a T1 is mk1 or 2? And what's the difference?


----------



## Clsmooth391

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I would skip (send back) any SR007 phones and do anything I could to get my hands on a pair of 009s, which nobody could ever pry from me.
> If you have to get a cheap amp or source for a while until you can afford better, I would do so, but to me the 009s are the main kernal to build a great system upon.
> The 009 reveals extreme detail in a musical way that can sink deep in to your brain in ways I never heard any audio system do.
> It can be bright if you don't line up the food chain right, but you'll get there if you work at it a bit.


 
   
  I got 10% off with Elusive Disc so bit the bullet and ordered the SR-009. I listen mostly to vocals and i'm looking for a more intimate sound as opposed to something grand. In that respect, I am wondering if one of the Stax amps would give me what I am looking for. The one I am looking at is the SRM-717. Is this a wise move or should I be looking down a  different path?


----------



## DefQon

davidsh said:


> Ohh, how do I know if a T1 is mk1 or 2? And what's the difference?




 There is no mk1 or mk2 T1. T1, T1S and T1W.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





clsmooth391 said:


> I got 10% off with Elusive Disc so bit the bullet and ordered the SR-009. I listen mostly to vocals and i'm looking for a more intimate sound as opposed to something grand. In that respect, I am wondering if one of the Stax amps would give me what I am looking for. The one I am looking at is the SRM-717. Is this a wise move or should I be looking down a  different path?


 
  I keep saying here (but not too many believe me) that the 007t/ii amp really does a fine job. It is reminiscent of the 007t/SR007 mk1 setup I had for many years (but the 009 is,
  -trite but true- in a whole different league). I use the RCA inputs and a warmish Shunyata power cord and I am astounded by the results.
  I really came to like the 007t sound on my original 1999 SR007 mk-1 system, as it has a sweet tubey inner light in addition to a very solid bass.
  Search around the forums for 007t comments and you will get a feel of people's experience with it (it seems positive to me).
  Even look up 12 years worth of magazine reviews of the 007t system. That's all I have used with my 009s.
   
  The 009s with the WES is grander and presents a bigger hall like space and has more layering, but the 007t/ii creates a smaller intimate space with, to my ears, 
  great vocals (I like Carly Simon, Joni Mitchell, Simon and Garfunkel, Carole King,  CSN&Y, Paul McCartney, Beatles, Eagles, Doobies + all the usual suspects from classic rock).
  My 007t/ii is just the stock version, having no mods, using the stock tubes.
   
  Congrats on the 009s and the good deal. I think Justin has a used 007t/ii last time I looked.


----------



## astrostar59

Hi Clsmooth391
   
  I use the SRM-717 with my SR-007s (2.5 version) and it sounds really good.
   
  I have a good Audio Note 3.1 tube DAC, and use an Audio Note M3 pre amp before the Stax amp, which I have set to bypass the Stax volume pot. Front end is a Mac Mini with full M2Tech EVO stack. The SQ I am getting is truly special, and I am very happy.
   
  I would recommend buying a used SRM-717, and maybe later try a BHSE or LL if you have the funds then. But you may find, like me the Stax amp does it for you. I think having a pre amp before the Stax input is giving the Stax amp more swing and dynamics. Without a pre it sounds thinner and less realistic.


----------



## rgs9200m

Stax 007t/ii new via Amazon. $2050.
http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-SRM-007TA-SRM-007TII-DRIVER-HEADPHONE/dp/B008073MC8
   
  This is what spritzer said a few years back about the Stax amps:
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The standard recommended Stax amp is the 717 since it is quite frankly by far the best amp Stax have made in a long time. The 727 isn't as good but if you find one cheaply I'd go for it. The tube amps put me to sleep with the SR-007 so I can't recommend them."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   
OK, but I think a mellow-ish tube amp is just what the SR009 needs, and maybe that's why I like the 007t/ii - 009 combo so much.
The 009 is NOT as laid back as the Omegas.
  [size=x-small]I'm not an EE guy (I worked in software mainly), I just know what I hear, and I have no interest here except to recommend what sounds good (great) to me to help fellow headfiers here.[/size]
  [size=x-small]( I have had experience searching for good amp/phone matches on the dynamic side, cycling thru Headroom Maxes, a Luxman P1U, a B52, and a Pinnacle with a[/size]
  [size=x-small]variety of good dynamic phones including R10s at one time, so that's where my experience with headphone sound comes from.)[/size]
  [size=x-small]I am biased toward tube headphone amps though, as I am a fan of the inner glow of tube-sound, especially on vocals, so given a choice, I stick with tubes.[/size]


----------



## gilency

I am in Toronto tonight and my headphones sound better here than in LA.
  I think is because I am closer to the North Pole


----------



## Clsmooth391

astrostar59, thank you for your impressions. I am hoping the Stax does it for me. From what I've read, the higher end amps may not provide me with the sound I am looking for. I am not ruling out saving up for the LL, BHSE but just feel the sound may be too big and not as involving my tastes. Btw, what dac do you use in your setup? I'm curious as your amp is warm so a warmer dac could be overkill.
   
  rgs9200m, I have read a lot of your posts on the 007t/ii and it has really tempted me. I like the tube sound myself. However, I have a good deal on the SRM-717. It's a part exchange so saves me selling some gear.  It's also local and the amp has been modded to 117v. My thought process is to give it a try (as I really like the KGSS sound) and it's going to be similar or slightly warmer which could work well with the SR-009. If I'm not happy with it, I will sell it on and try to audition the 007t/ii.
   
  Thanks again for your help.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





> I am in Toronto tonight and my headphones sound better here than in LA.
> I think is because I am closer to the North Pole


 
  Let's try those suckers in the Bermuda triangle


----------



## DefQon

For a second there, I thought you were Wink.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





> For a second there, I thought you were Wink.


 
  That's the plan.


----------



## Warpkitty

I'm thinking of going STAX and picking up the SR-007 MkII and a 727 amp. Is this the best I can do for classical music listening? Pretty big genre I know, but let's say chamber music and contemporary classical.
   
  Other than the SR-009's is there a significantly better alternative than my current Woo WA2 and HD600's (which I think are marvelous). I do like the STAX sound and I used to own a pair of the electrets back in the day.
   
  Can't really audition the setup first so I'm going by the opinions here and will maybe take the plunge unheard.  I think that'll be OK since I picked the WA2 and HD600's the same way!!


----------



## jjinh

LOL, patrick, ineptius - they were hilarious.
   
  On another note can someone buy Tom's diy BHSE so I dont get tempted - I'd rather spend my money on other things...


----------



## jaycalgary

I sure like the looks of the diy BHSE.


----------



## DefQon

Where's this diy BHSE?


----------



## jjinh

The hf amps fs forum... and it's Sydney only


----------



## DefQon

I saw and it is very tempting.


----------



## jjinh

Yeh, just if I had more room and didnt have anything better to spend my money on (which I do )


----------



## n3rdling

You guys should definitely get that amp, you won't regret it.
   
  Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> I'm thinking of going STAX and picking up the SR-007 MkII and a 727 amp. Is this the best I can do for classical music listening? Pretty big genre I know, but let's say chamber music and contemporary classical.
> 
> Other than the SR-009's is there a significantly better alternative than my current Woo WA2 and HD600's (which I think are marvelous). I do like the STAX sound and I used to own a pair of the electrets back in the day.
> 
> Can't really audition the setup first so I'm going by the opinions here and will maybe take the plunge unheard.  I think that'll be OK since I picked the WA2 and HD600's the same way!!


 
  Are you buying new?  If so, you might want to look into a SR-009 from pricejapan (about $3400 last I checked) and a vintage SRM-T1 amp or used SRM-006t amp (~$600).  You can always upgrade the amp later but they should pair quite well with the SR-009 and Lambdas.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> I'm thinking of going STAX and picking up the SR-007 MkII and a 727 amp. Is this the best I can do for classical music listening? Pretty big genre I know, but let's say chamber music and contemporary classical.
> 
> Other than the SR-009's is there a significantly better alternative than my current Woo WA2 and HD600's (which I think are marvelous). I do like the STAX sound and I used to own a pair of the electrets back in the day.
> 
> Can't really audition the setup first so I'm going by the opinions here and will maybe take the plunge unheard.  I think that'll be OK since I picked the WA2 and HD600's the same way!!


 

 The SR009 and 006T is a good advice. I only use SR507 with 006TS and for classical this is heaven, ever repeating what has been said before but it is so transparent and true to the instruments voice, it is scary.


----------



## Lonely_Rider

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> ...the 009s just open up a new world of insight, articulateness, and beautiful non-analytic detail on all sorts
> of old familiar music as if I'm hearing it for the first time. Sometimes a sound widget appears so clearly it's shocking, and I need to re-start the track just to hear this thing again,
> and it's a real thrill ride, fast and furious. It is like being in a speeding car I guess.
> ...
> ...


 
   
  +1
   
  There should be "Team official lovers of SR-009's"





   
  My SR-009's sounds the same, as they sounded year ago, when I bought them, I think.


----------



## wink

QuoteefQon on Mr Violin


> For a second there, I thought you were Wink.


 
   
  True, but he's a lot more musical........


----------



## gilency

LOL. Just because the SRM-007 sounds good with the SR-009, doesn't mean the high end amps are crap.
  i.e. My Ford Fiesta is great, I don't see how a BMW could be better.


----------



## wink

Quote:Jjinh 





> On another note can someone not buy Tom's diy BHSE so I can get tempted - I'd rather not spend my money on any other thing...


 
  Fixed...
   
  Do Weeeeet   You know you want to........


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You guys should definitely get that amp, you won't regret it.
> 
> Are you buying new?  If so, you might want to look into a SR-009 from pricejapan (about $3400 last I checked) and a vintage SRM-T1 amp or used SRM-006t amp (~$600).  You can always upgrade the amp later but they should pair quite well with the SR-009 and Lambdas.


 
  Yes, I was considering new and I have indeed checked out pricejapan. The SR-009's are heavily back ordered at the moment so that gave me pause for thought. However I am keeping my eye on used gear here and at audiogon, especially in the amp department.
   
  I get what you're saying about going for the better transducer, but I'm not really sure that my ears are as discerning as others. For example, I "get" the STAX sound from my old SR-40s and I "get" the HD800 sound from listening to those 'phones in a shop. I also had an opportunity to listen to some AKG 701's at the same time and found the sound profile similar enough to the HD800s to just go for the AKG's (I purchased neither). In the end, I think I like the HD600s better than both for the tonal presentation of acoustic instruments. Ultimately, one would have to just sit with these things for a month or so to make a really informed judgement.
   
  So I think I just can't swing the TOTL STAX setup, but wanted to try the SR-007's to try the Omega sound.
   
  Make sense?


----------



## edstrelow

I am still impressed by the Stax SRXIII Pro, even compared to my Sigma/404 and SR007A. They have great detail and I find I am able to follow complex passages in opera and classical music very easily. I can see why the low bias version was considered a monitor phone. They lack some of the timbre you would get with the Sigma/404 and especially the 007A. . A big part of their appeal is that while they have good bass, there is none of the bass bloat that you get with most other Staxen. They give a dry sound, somewhat lacking in ambience, but still delightful.
   
  One oddity about them is that there is considerable harshness when the system is used cold, i.e. not warmed up. (Generally I use them with a Stax SRM1Mk2 or 717 amp.) However once warmed up the sound is much less harsh. Most people realize that Stax systems need to be warmed up, but what is odd here is that the warm-up effect takes a different character with the SRXIII Pro. With Sigmas, there is reduction in bass boominess and an incresae in treble/midrange when warmed up. With the SRXII pro it is more like a reduction in the 2kHz to 8kHz range.
   
  I also use contact enhancers based on Silclear (a silver paste) and Progold. These also help with the harshness problem.


----------



## rgs9200m

What were the Stax CA-X and CA-Y preamps and what did they evolve to?


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> The SR009 and 006T is a good advice. I only use SR507 with 006TS and for classical this is heaven, ever repeating what has been said before but it is so transparent and true to the instruments voice, it is scary.


 
  Hmmm. Perhaps your setup is a better choice for classical over the SR007/727? Certainly less costly.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> Yes, I was considering new and I have indeed checked out pricejapan. The SR-009's are heavily back ordered at the moment so that gave me pause for thought. However I am keeping my eye on used gear here and at audiogon, especially in the amp department.
> 
> I get what you're saying about going for the better transducer, but I'm not really sure that my ears are as discerning as others. For example, I "get" the STAX sound from my old SR-40s and I "get" the HD800 sound from listening to those 'phones in a shop. I also had an opportunity to listen to some AKG 701's at the same time and found the sound profile similar enough to the HD800s to just go for the AKG's (I purchased neither). In the end, I think I like the HD600s better than both for the tonal presentation of acoustic instruments. Ultimately, one would have to just sit with these things for a month or so to make a really informed judgement.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I was just trying to point out that a new SR-007mk2 + SRM-727 combo is just as costly as the system I recommended.  The 007 combo is $4600 on elusivedisc, the 009 combo I recommended is ~$4100 if you don't mind waiting a while for pricejapan.  Alternately you could buy the SR-007A from pricejapan and the SRM-727 from a US distributor and that would lower the cost some.  You also wouldn't have to worry about buying a step up transformer for the amp since changing the voltage on a Japanese SRM-727A can be tricky.
   
  The two headphones sound quite different from one another.  The 007 is a bit on the warm side, 009 more neutral (think LCD2 vs HD600).  009 has a significantly larger soundstage which is part of the reason I recommended it to you (I like a big soundstage for classical).  Both have top-notch imaging.
   
  If you want to go even cheaper, I highly recommend trying to find a vintage Lambda setup.  The original Lambda series sounds better than the newer stuff to me.


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> I was just trying to point out that a new SR-007mk2 + SRM-727 combo is just as costly as the system I recommended.  The 007 combo is $4600 on elusivedisc, the 009 combo I recommended is ~$4100 if you don't mind waiting a while for pricejapan.  Alternately you could buy the SR-007A from pricejapan and the SRM-727 from a US distributor and that would lower the cost some.  You also wouldn't have to worry about buying a step up transformer for the amp since changing the voltage on a Japanese SRM-727A can be tricky.
> 
> The two headphones sound quite different from one another.  The 007 is a bit on the warm side, 009 more neutral (think LCD2 vs HD600).  009 has a significantly larger soundstage which is part of the reason I recommended it to you (I like a big soundstage for classical).  Both have top-notch imaging.
> 
> If you want to go even cheaper, I highly recommend trying to find a vintage Lambda setup.  The original Lambda series sounds better than the newer stuff to me.


 
  I very much appreciate your suggestions n3rdling. It is indeed a big dollar outlay, so perhaps splitting things up between pricejapan and locally for the amp is a good idea. And I could wait for the SR-009's from pricejapan, get an amp now, and maybe some Lambdas to tie me over. Many options.
   
  I like the way you're comparing the LCD2 to the HD600. I can listen to the LCDs locally, so perhaps I should and get a little idea. All of this is non-ideal, but I did manage to get the WA2 and HD600's based on other's impressions form Head-Fi and that worked out really well.
   
  You mentioned the earlier Lambda's. Is there a particular combination that is recommended?
   
  Thanks so much!


----------



## n3rdling

Btw, when I compared the LCD2 and HD600 it was in terms of tonality/frequency response neutrality only - not bass impact, detail, or anything else.
   
  If you end up getting one of the Stax tube amps (one of the SRM-T1 variants or the SRM-006), they pair very well with the Lambdas.  I would recommend the SR-Lambda (~$275), the SR-Lambda Signature (~$475), and the SR-Lambda Nova Signature (~$475).  All are very good headphones and will showcase the Stax sound.  You could use one of them until the SR-009 arrives and it pairs pretty well with those tube amps as well.  The SR-007 however doesn't pair very well with the Stax tube amps, so that would change your upgrade path if you decide to go down that road.


----------



## raulcf77

Hi friends! I´m going to get a pair of SR-009 (i was blown away when I heard them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





). I will power them with a SRM-717. Looking over there you can see such very expensive headphone amps as BHSE, Cavalli´s...is that a big improve over an amp like the 717 (taking into account the same source)? I´m not able to listen one of those amps and I´m thinking in the future if invest in one of them or not


----------



## Michgelsen

Speaking of the 717, does anybody have one with a known age, and if so, can you tell me the serial number?
   
  I'm trying to figure out how old my 717 is. I have no clue. Its serial number is W01076.


----------



## shipsupt

warpkitty said:


> Yes, I was considering new and I have indeed checked out pricejapan. The SR-009's are heavily back ordered at the moment so that gave me pause for thought. However I am keeping my eye on used gear here and at audiogon, especially in the amp department.




For those thinking about PriceJapan, to give you an idea of lead time; my 009's shipped yesterday, almost 2 months to the day from purchase.


----------



## CDPlayer

If anybody could suggest the best way of taking off the old pads from a 4070 (or a Lambda) without tearing/blistering skin on one's fingers when trying to "roll" the residual sticky off, I would be very much obliged...
   
  Thanks


----------



## shipsupt

I've used WD-40 in the past to remove adhesives and it's fairly mild, just be VERY careful with it since you'll be working around the drivers.  No need to spray it on... just put a little on a cloth and then soak it into the adhesive.
   
  I've also had good luck with Goo-gone.  It's citrus based so very mild.
   
  You can also use a hair dryer.  Again, watch how hot you're getting things, like the drivers.
   
  I've not used any of these to remove pads from any STAX, but they are methods that have worked on other "stuff".


----------



## arnaud

Hair dryer, you guys are brave!


----------



## wink

Quote:arnaud 





> Hair dryer, you guys are brave!


 
  Also very adept or stupid......


----------



## shipsupt

Thanks Wink.  I'll assume you were calling me adept...   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
   
  Did you miss the "be careful", and "this might not be the best application of this method" part of my message?
   
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Also very adept or stupid......


----------



## arnaud

That reminds me of an intership at a (now defunct, the following might partly explain why ) french audio manufacturer. I was helping with the assembly of these expensive bookshelf speakers with some high-end mid bass drivers in them. After having carefully soldered the wires from the crossover unit to the driver, the final touch before screwing the driver in was to use a "hair dryer" to get the heat shrink to fit at the solder joint location. And I was happely blowing hot air against the connector block, making sure the (probably of no use but nice looking) heatshrink reduced in size to fit tightly and hide the exposed wire / solder.
   
  As I was making something like twenty speakers in parallel, I got more and more brave as I went through the line. Until, to my horrified eyes, I discovered the spider was bulging on one of the drivers. Yep, that wasn't just cosmetic as pushing the cone on its axis very much felt like the coil was rubbing against one of the pole pieces. Oups, the speaker before that is doing the same thing... Oups, that one too.... This was a Friday evening I believe probably 11PM, the shipment was supposed to occur on the following Monday as I recall. Oh, I spent such a relaxed week end after that, waiting for Monday morning to tell the boss. I think I did not get as much involved with assembly after that and got to go back playing upstairs with the prototyping of speakers .


----------



## wink

Quote:shipsupt. 





> Thanks Wink.  I'll assume you were calling me adept...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I was not doubting your adroitness, it was a general call to all those who wished to partake of the experience.
   
  The hamfisted and knuckle-draggers know who they are.


----------



## Michgelsen

Best way is probably to use a cotton swab soaked in an appropriate solvent. Since I do not know what type of glue it is you want to remove, and what's under it, it's hard to recommend 'the best' solvent. In my experience however, most sticker residues come off quite well with isopropanol. It's not the best solvent, so be patient and prepared to repeat the process, but the large benefit is that it's safe for humans and, also very important, for all plastics except acrylics. Do not use hydrocarbons or acetone on plastics, unless you're absolutely sure that the specific piece of plastic you're cleaning can withstand it.
   
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> If anybody could suggest the best way of taking off the old pads from a 4070 (or a Lambda) without tearing/blistering skin on one's fingers when trying to "roll" the residual sticky off, I would be very much obliged...
> 
> Thanks


----------



## Swordsman

are these good for pc gaming ?


----------



## spritzer

No, terrible.


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *CDPlayer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> If anybody could suggest the best way of taking off the old pads from a 4070 (or a Lambda) without tearing/blistering skin on one's fingers when trying to "roll" the residual sticky off, I would be very much obliged...


 
   
  Isopropanol is decent, I've used it before when replacing the pads with those limited leather ones. Just apply with a cloth, or spray some on your finger when rolling away.
   
  It does get a little messy though, you still have to do a lot of rolling, especially if you're like me and you yanked the pads off in rage, leaving clumps of earpad behind, but at least your fingers will be intact.


----------



## wink

Just don't drink the stuff.


----------



## wink

Quote:Swordsman 





> are these good for pc gaming ?


 
   
  Quote:spritzer 





> No, terrible.


 
  Translation:  Get beats.....


----------



## wink

Quote:deadlyearnest 





> but at least your fingers will be intact.


 
  Use gloves or contact dermatitis may be acquired.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





wink said:


> Just don't drink the stuff.


 
   
  Indeed, in that case use ethanol instead.
   
   
   
  BTW Wink, there exist such things as multiquote and edit functions.


----------



## rgs9200m

Great story Arnaud! 'loved it. Keep em 'coming. It's great to hear inside stories of high end audio to get past the commericalism.
  (post #22695 above.)


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





swordsman said:


> are these good for pc gaming ?


 
  The guyz seem to be trolling...


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote:Michigan 





michgelsen said:


> Indeed, in that case use ethanol instead.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW Wink, there exist such things as multiquote and edit functions.


 
  I think he knows that.


----------



## n3rdling

I use a small scapel to scrape off most of the residue and then a cotton swab dipped in hydrogen peroxide to rub the rest off.


----------



## Nemeske88

Hi thread,
   
  A question:
   
  STAX and magnets?


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





swordsman said:


> are these good for pc gaming ?


 
Right this way.
   
   
  Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Hi thread,
> 
> A question:
> 
> STAX and magnets?


 
  Hi Nemeske88,
   
  What about them?


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> A question:
> 
> STAX and magnets?


 
   
  All signs point to 'maybe'.


----------



## davidsh

Stax has no magnets...


----------



## Chris J

davidsh said:


> Stax has no magnets...




........because Stax is an Electric Field driver, not a Magnetic Field type driver!


----------



## davidsh

Wonder if it has any heatlh implications...
   
  Tomorrow I'll join the club if I am satisfied with the T1 and Lambda Signature.


----------



## Chris J

davidsh said:


> Wonder if it has any heatlh implications...
> 
> Tomorrow I'll join the club if I am satisfied with the T1 and Lambda Signature.





You could argue what's worse, putting a varying Magnetic Field close to your brain, or putting a varying Electric Field close to your brain!


----------



## CDPlayer

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think I'll try to use an old credit card to scrape off most of the residue, and then clean with ethanol. Actually, the box with the 507 pads has printed instrustions on it, which recommend ethanol or benzene.
   
  For your enjoyment, here's probably the only 4070 with different pads on (I just can't get myself to torture my fingers doing the second driver at this point):
   

  ...which in itself is an interesting experience - to my ears both sides sound very much the same - right with the original pad and foam dust protector and left with the leather pad and nylon mesh (?) dust protector. But hey, I never said I had golden ears. 
   
   
  And here's a snapshot of the instructions.

   
  One more question - looking at he picture, does the elastic on the support bad seems to be stretched too much? The reason I'm asking is they feel too low on my head when I put them on. The 007 I have expose visibly more elastic, but sit on my head very nicely...
   
  P.S. And yes, I see that I've stuck the right pad on the left driver. Bugger.


----------



## autoteleology

I'd really like to try the 4070, or at least something like it. I wonder if Stax will ever make another closed monitor.


----------



## DefQon

Really want to try the 4070 someday, apparantly fujiya avic sells them for around 75000 yen but I'm not sure if its discontinued or so. Not to mention they don't ship internationally at all.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Really want to try the 4070 someday, apparantly fujiya avic sells them for around 75000 yen but I'm not sure if its discontinued or so. Not to mention they don't ship internationally at all.


 
   
  4070 been discontinued for a good while. Took me a fair bit of patience and luck to track my pair down. Considering that you're in Mel, so we could get together someday, no prob. I'd love to check out your Omegas, too.


----------



## DefQon

True, this is what I don't get whether it's still being sold by Fujiya Avic or not??
   
  I know it's discontinued but check this out:
   
http://fujiya-avic.co.jp/products/detail1422.html
   
  With regards the Omega's I sold them a month ago, but I can still "listen" to them when I want to as I sold it to a good friend of mine who went to long lengths of buying it overseas for me.
   
  Planning to sell off everything I have currently in my possession, probably $1.2k for all the Stax gear I own and such. I'm done with this hobby.


----------



## CDPlayer

Yeh, not sure what these guys sell.. Sad to hear about the sell-off, too..


----------



## DefQon

Yeah what can you do? The current economy is going to schit, unemployment rate rising not to mention the clusterfk of a government we currently have with Gillard leading the clowns and the opposition just as worse.


----------



## arnaud

Sorry to pop the ballon but that's the price fujiya will pay for to grab these from your hands, not the other way around... And lucky you, they're now in 10% up campaign so they'll give you 50 bucks extra for it or so .


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Sorry to pop the ballon but that's the price fujiya will pay for to grab these from your hands, not the other way around... And lucky you, they're now in 10% up campaign so they'll give you 50 bucks extra for it or so
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ohhhh, I thought something was kind of fishy with the prices as if they will sell a SR-007 for 80,000 yen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Google translate sucks, thanks for the interpretation Arnaud.


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Btw, when I compared the LCD2 and HD600 it was in terms of tonality/frequency response neutrality only - not bass impact, detail, or anything else.
> 
> If you end up getting one of the Stax tube amps (one of the SRM-T1 variants or the SRM-006), they pair very well with the Lambdas.  I would recommend the SR-Lambda (~$275), the SR-Lambda Signature (~$475), and the SR-Lambda Nova Signature (~$475).  All are very good headphones and will showcase the Stax sound.  You could use one of them until the SR-009 arrives and it pairs pretty well with those tube amps as well.  The SR-007 however doesn't pair very well with the Stax tube amps, so that would change your upgrade path if you decide to go down that road.


 
  The lesser setup seems very prudent, but I'm not sure. I might end up just selling it and going for the TOTL Stax in the end. It is the journey though.
   
  Some more background: With the SR-007 I was thinking about the 727II and I was already to go for that combo, but then read the the non-NFB design was sort of sucky, and then I read the unmodded 727 was OK with the SR-009. After about 200 pages of comments here and at other forums, looking at the mod, etc. I got very confused. I take it that amp design for electrostatics is far more important than dynamics, but I'm unsure of the physics behind this.
   
  Would those who have heard the SR-009 with an unmodded SRM-727II consider it a good choice for acoustic music? It's 7K'ish worth of audio gear so I would think so!
   
  It seems that the SR-007 is really not worth it? ... I should just get the SR-009 or a Lambda?
   
  Thanks for pointers. Also, I'm super serious about this and would not have to ask questions if I could actually listen to a setup. No one sells Stax where I live. I was thinking of travelling to actually hear the gear first!


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> The lesser setup seems very prudent, but I'm not sure. I might end up just selling it and going for the TOTL Stax in the end. It is the journey though.
> 
> Some more background: With the SR-007 I was thinking about the 727II and I was already to go for that combo, but then read the the non-NFB design was sort of sucky, and then I read the unmodded 727 was OK with the SR-009. After about 200 pages of comments here and at other forums, looking at the mod, etc. I got very confused. I take it that amp design for electrostatics is far more important than dynamics, but I'm unsure of the physics behind this.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I prefer the SR009s over the SR007s by a good margin (especially over the SR007 MKII). And the SRM727II was my first amp with the SR009s and I thought it was a darn good pairing. Enough to obliterate my HD800/LCD-3s from my GS-X. That said, they SR009s did improve on imaging, detail, clarity and control since I picked up my HeadAmp KGSS.


----------



## varyV

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I prefer the SR009s over the SR007s by a good margin (especially over the SR007 MKII). And the SRM727II was my first amp with the SR009s and I thought it was a darn good pairing. Enough to obliterate my HD800/LCD-3s from my GS-X. That said, they SR009s did improve on imaging, detail, clarity and control since I picked up my HeadAmp KGSS.


 

 How much would you say was the improvement between the 009+727 pairing over your HD800+GS-X pairing? I could appreciate some more information with regards to the bass presence/response as well.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





varyv said:


> How much would you say was the improvement between the 009+727 pairing over your HD800+GS-X pairing? I could appreciate some more information with regards to the bass presence/response as well.


 
  Substantial. But with the KGSS, I'd say in a whole new class. Baka1969 was here in Toronto for a visit a few weeks back and he's a BIG HD800 fan, but admitted the SR009s were in a new league over them. I gotta agree with him.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> The lesser setup seems very prudent, but I'm not sure. I might end up just selling it and going for the TOTL Stax in the end. It is the journey though.
> 
> Some more background: With the SR-007 I was thinking about the 727II and I was already to go for that combo, but then read the the non-NFB design was sort of sucky, and then I read the unmodded 727 was OK with the SR-009. After about 200 pages of comments here and at other forums, looking at the mod, etc. I got very confused. I take it that amp design for electrostatics is far more important than dynamics, but I'm unsure of the physics behind this.
> 
> ...


 
  I loved the SR-009 + unmodded 727ii for acoustic music, it literally knocked every headphone I had out of the park in this genre (and classical).


----------



## DefQon

Come on dudes, $1.5k vs $4.5k headphone lols. Dynamic vs Electrostatic technology. Although there sound tonal signature is similar it's apples and bananas comparison.


----------



## raulcf77

Quote: 





varyv said:


> How much would you say was the improvement between the 009+727 pairing over your HD800+GS-X pairing? I could appreciate some more information with regards to the bass presence/response as well.


 
   
  and how much improvement between the 009+717 paring over something like 009 + BHSE/KGSV? That´s my doubt


----------



## varyV

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Come on dudes, $1.5k vs $4.5k headphone lols. Dynamic vs Electrostatic technology. Although there sound tonal signature is similar it's apples and bananas comparison.


 
   
  I know, it's a generation in terms of performance, but leave some room for those of us who have not had the chance to hear the stat smoothness .
  Quote: 





raulcf77 said:


> and how much improvement between the 009+717 paring over something like 009 + BHSE/KGSV? That´s my doubt


 
  I've been kinda temperamental about the comparison as well...not quite ready to sell off all of my gear, and not quite to acquire a one system setup; yet super excited to hear the stats perform to their best.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Come on dudes, $1.5k vs $4.5k headphone lols. Dynamic vs Electrostatic technology. Although there sound tonal signature is similar it's apples and bananas comparison.


 
  Neutral sounding headphones vs. neutral sounding headphones can very much be compared. That's kinda what we do here on Head-fi.


----------



## MrViolin

Seems there'll be phones to try out this summer while in Japan...


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Substantial. But with the KGSS, I'd say in a whole new class. Baka1969 was here in Toronto for a visit a few weeks back and he's a BIG HD800 fan, but admitted the SR009s were in a new league over them. I gotta agree with him.


 
  Oooh. I wish you lived in Vancouver.
   
  So it seems I need to look at this SR-009/727 for starters. OK. Wish someone could tell me the SR-007 were "good enuf"


----------



## MacedonianHero

warpkitty said:


> Oooh. I wish you lived in Vancouver.
> 
> So it seems I need to look at this SR-009/727 for starters. OK. Wish someone could tell me the SR-007 were "good enuf"




Sorry, other side of The Great White North.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> The lesser setup seems very prudent, but I'm not sure. I might end up just selling it and going for the TOTL Stax in the end. It is the journey though.
> 
> Some more background: With the SR-007 I was thinking about the 727II and I was already to go for that combo, but then read the the non-NFB design was sort of sucky, and then I read the unmodded 727 was OK with the SR-009. After about 200 pages of comments here and at other forums, looking at the mod, etc. I got very confused. I take it that amp design for electrostatics is far more important than dynamics, but I'm unsure of the physics behind this.
> 
> ...


 
  The 727 is the only Stax SS amp without global feedback.  There's a mod to change this, and after the mod you should have an amp that's supposed to be pretty similar to the KGSS.  People say the stock 727 sounds off, and when I get mine here soon I'm definitely modding it.
   
  The SR-007 is an amazing headphone...the mk1 version is my 3rd or 4th favorite headphone ever still.  I was simply recommending the SR-009 based on what you said your preferences were originally.  If you only listened to rock, metal, or hip hop then I probably would have recommended it instead.   The SR-009 really excels with classical.
   
  Where do you live?


----------



## gilency

SR-009 with Woo GES likely to be a good choice, based on the KGTT design. Cheaper than the 007 too.
  Kerry built one and remember reading somewhere he is very happy with it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The SR-007 is an amazing headphone...the mk1 version is my 3rd or 4th favorite headphone ever still.


 
  What would be your 1st, 2nd or 3rd favourite?
   
  I'm guessing in no particular order, Omega, 009 and HE90?


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The 727 is the only Stax SS amp without global feedback.  There's a mod to change this, and after the mod you should have an amp that's supposed to be pretty similar to the KGSS.  People say the stock 727 sounds off, and when I get mine here soon I'm definitely modding it.
> 
> The SR-007 is an amazing headphone...the mk1 version is my 3rd or 4th favorite headphone ever still.  I was simply recommending the SR-009 based on what you said your preferences were originally.  If you only listened to rock, metal, or hip hop then I probably would have recommended it instead.   The SR-009 really excels with classical.
> 
> Where do you live?


 
  I live in Vancouver. We've got an OK headphone shop here and they sell some really cool stuff, but no Stax. The other big hi-fi stores here do the Linn/Naim thing, but not Stax. Back in the 80's we had a hi-fi store that sold Stax and that's where I got my first and only electret.
   
  It's exclusively classical for me with headphones. And sometimes pretentious electronic stuff. In the car it's another story ... I sort of just listen to Detroit techno from the 80's and 90's with a bit of Echospace and some other over reverbed echoing weird stuff thrown in (Deepchord, Fluxion, etc.). I used to write that sort of stuff, but now I'm all over pretentious electronic music that no one but me will ever hear!
   
  So it seems for the genre I like best (chamber music, contemporary classical), it's the SR-009. OK! Time to start selling and saving I think.


----------



## DefQon

Very best with your journey and may the wallet gods be with you.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





defqon said:


> What would be your 1st, 2nd or 3rd favourite?
> 
> I'm guessing in no particular order, Omega, 009 and HE90?


 
  HE90 is my favorite, then 009, then Omega/Omega2 mk1
  Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> I live in Vancouver. We've got an OK headphone shop here and they sell some really cool stuff, but no Stax. The other big hi-fi stores here do the Linn/Naim thing, but not Stax. Back in the 80's we had a hi-fi store that sold Stax and that's where I got my first and only electret.
> 
> It's exclusively classical for me with headphones. And sometimes pretentious electronic stuff. In the car it's another story ... I sort of just listen to Detroit techno from the 80's and 90's with a bit of Echospace and some other over reverbed echoing weird stuff thrown in (Deepchord, Fluxion, etc.). I used to write that sort of stuff, but now I'm all over pretentious electronic music that no one but me will ever hear!
> 
> So it seems for the genre I like best (chamber music, contemporary classical), it's the SR-009. OK! Time to start selling and saving I think.


 
  You should definitely go to a meet sometime.  I'm sure there's somebody that goes to the Vancouver meets that has some Stax for you to audition.


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





gilency said:


> SR-009 with Woo GES likely to be a good choice, based on the KGTT design. Cheaper than the 007 too.
> Kerry built one and remember reading somewhere he is very happy with it.


 
  Well that would match my WA2! I was sort of thinking SS for the Stax setup, but perhaps further research is warranted.


----------



## DefQon

Why not BHSE?


----------



## Warpkitty

I wil try and check this stuff out first before I buy and since I need to prepare my life (sell, save, give up something!) for such a big purchase, I will have time to mull everything over. I missed the meet that was here last month, so hopefully one will come up again.
   
  I might jam out too and go for the non-TOTL option 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I'm afraid of the BHSE.


----------



## rgs9200m

Warpkitty, there's a Seattle meet on Bainbridge Island in late July it seems:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/665040/seattle-head-fi-meet-at-bottleheadquarters-7-27-13


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Warpkitty, there's a Seattle meet on Bainbridge Island in late July it seems:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/665040/seattle-head-fi-meet-at-bottleheadquarters-7-27-13


 
  Yup one of the guys there has a SR-009.
   
  And sachu has a SR-007 MKI I believe. At least it was there with his rig last year.


----------



## shipsupt

@CDPlayer - Which pads did you go with?  My 4070 pads look great, but they sure feel pretty thin and worn out... I've considered a re-pad to improve comfort.
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think I'll try to use an old credit card to scrape off most of the residue, and then clean with ethanol. Actually, the box with the 507 pads has printed instrustions on it, which recommend ethanol or benzene.
> 
> For your enjoyment, here's probably the only 4070 with different pads on (I just can't get myself to torture my fingers doing the second driver at this point):


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> @CDPlayer - Which pads did you go with?  My 4070 pads look great, but they sure feel pretty thin and worn out... I've considered a re-pad to improve comfort.


 
  He used the 507 pads.


----------



## shipsupt

Thanks.
   
  I've got a pair of 507 pads on order that have been taking FOREVER to arrive.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> He used the 507 pads.


 
   
  Correct. And considering that I stuck the first pad onto the wrong driver, I just oredered a second set (from audiocubes2, because PriceJapan told me these are backordered at the dealer they are buying from, with ETA of 4 *MONTHS*).
   
  I'm guessing that the fact the the instruction steps for replacing pads are written bottom up (step #1 is at the bottom, see picture I posted) didn't help the matters.  Anyway, live and learn, and hopefully my fingers that I buggered up trying to get the residual glue off will heal by the time I get the replacements, so double win.


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Warpkitty, there's a Seattle meet on Bainbridge Island in late July it seems:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/665040/seattle-head-fi-meet-at-bottleheadquarters-7-27-13


 
  Nice. I might be able to go. Subscribed to that thread.
   
  Thanks rgs9200m!


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Correct. And considering that I stuck the first pad onto the wrong driver, I just oredered a second set (from audiocubes2, because PriceJapan told me these are backordered at the dealer they are buying from, with ETA of 4 *MONTHS*).
> 
> I'm guessing that the fact the the instruction steps for replacing pads are written bottom up (step #1 is at the bottom, see picture I posted) didn't help the matters.  Anyway, live and learn, and hopefully my fingers that I buggered up trying to get the residual glue off will heal by the time I get the replacements, so double win.


 
   
  I did find it quite funny that nobody had mentioned the earpad being on the wrong way around...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  In other news, the SRS-2170 is f-ing awesome.  Not sure why Stax always make their cheapest Lambda the most balanced of the lot...


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  How's the bass extension on the 2170 system? I know they're no LCD-2, but if I'm used to hear the Mad Dog (LCD-2 esque bass) how much of a change would I be in for?


----------



## DefQon

LOL he did too haha.


----------



## realmassy

Finally I'm a member of the 009 club. Got mine an hour ago! These headphones look and feel expensive, even the box is a beauty...love the 'new car like' smell. These are my 4th Stax, after the 202, 507, 007.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> How's the bass extension on the 2170 system? I know they're no LCD-2, but if I'm used to hear the Mad Dog (LCD-2 esque bass) how much of a change would I be in for?


 
  Just get it you know you want to, there's no turning back, you can't run forever nor can you hide, the Stax will find you, the temptation will grow, become one of us, sorry about your wallet.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Bah, quit trying to convince me to spend my money! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  I might consider them soon if I can figure out how drastically different they will sound compared to what I've heard so far. Buying a $200 set of HE-400s set me back at least one paycheck though lol


----------



## Michgelsen

That's great news! As a fan of the SR-202, I had hoped that the SR-207 would be equally good or better, but feared that the SR-202 being so good was simply a lucky one-off. I'm glad to hear that the SRS-2170 system still seems to be a great bargain and entry into the Stax realm.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> In other news, the SRS-2170 is f-ing awesome.  Not sure why Stax always make their cheapest Lambda the most balanced of the lot...


----------



## DefQon

What is good about the SR-202? I have one and sometimes I feel like taking out my hammer and smashing it to pieces very much like Spritzer and Grado's.


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





> Hi Nemeske88,
> 
> What about them?


 
   
   
  Ah, sorry. I mean that can I make any irreversible damage to the earspeakers if I get a magnet close to it? (in real life, if one sets it down to a loudspeaker for example)
  I am also curious if has any health implications to hold 580V dc on your head for that matter.


----------



## chinsettawong

defqon said:


> What is good about the SR-202? I have one and sometimes I feel like taking out my hammer and smashing it to pieces very much like Spritzer and Grado's.




Really? Why? I have 2 pairs of SR202 and I feel that they sound as good as my SR407 and sound better than my HE60.

Wachara C.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Ah, sorry. I mean that can I make any irreversible damage to the earspeakers if I get a magnet close to it? (in real life, if one sets it down to a loudspeaker for example)
> I am also curious if has any health implications to hold 580V dc on your head for that matter.


 
  Nah, shouldn't really damage anything AFAIK. The electromagnetic field coming from the Stax should be almost neglible. At least I think so.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Really? Why? I have 2 pairs of SR202 and I feel that they sound as good as my SR407 and sound better than my HE60.
> 
> Wachara C.


 
   
  I haven't heard the 407, but agree about the HE60 part.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Really? Why? I have 2 pairs of SR202 and I feel that they sound as good as my SR407 and sound better than my HE60.
> 
> Wachara C.


 
  hehe was joking. I use to hate them when I first got them, too bright sounding not enough depth to my music. Fed them with the right amplification and I got it singing.


----------



## Chris J

davidsh said:


> Nah, shouldn't really damage anything AFAIK. The electromagnetic field coming from the Stax should be almost neglible. At least I think so.




The Stax is an Electric Field loudspeaker, it is not affected by magnetic field. Read the Stax manual for a definite answer.



nemeske88 said:


> Ah, sorry. I mean that can I make any irreversible damage to the earspeakers if I get a magnet close to it? (in real life, if one sets it down to a loudspeaker for example)
> I am also curious if has any health implications to hold 580V dc on your head for that matter.




I don't see how you would do anything to an Electrostatic driver if you had a magnet close to it.
I've never heard anyone harming a Stax by having a dynamic (i.e. magnetic field) headphone next to it. Have you ever put your Stax headphones on top of a Stax amplifier? The transformer in the amp will throw off a magnetic field. What does it say in the manual?

Not too sure what having 580 Volts dc next to your brain does. Probably just makes you lust for more expensive Stax headphones?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think I'll try to use an old credit card to scrape off most of the residue, and then clean with ethanol. Actually, the box with the 507 pads has printed instrustions on it, which recommend ethanol or benzene.


 
   
   
  There's a product called "Goof Off"  that works well for removing adhesives. I used it on my Lambda's when I replaced the earpads.  Fairly kind to skin, plastic and so on but removes adhesives.
   
http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/


----------



## Michgelsen

I would never use such products on plastics, because it's almost always unclear what's in them exactly. I'd rather pick the right solvent myself.
   
   
  BTW CDPlayer, you'd better not use benzene as it's a carcinogen. Pretty weird that the manual recommends it.


----------



## davidsh

Hi there, got my signature and the T1. So far it sounds very good, but I havn't got anything to compare to.
   
  Anyway, I found out they are not in perfect condition. It seems that they are glued on one side. So they must have snapped at some point in time. Anyway you can't adjust the height of the headband on one that side, and also the cup cannot swivel. How much will that affect the value? I bought them along with the T1 anyway for 630$ or so.
   
  That was without knowing that they was glued and etc when I bought them. It kinda bothers me the seller did not tell...
   
  EDIT: Ohh, and a fast answer would be good btw.


----------



## n3rdling

Do you have pictures?


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> Ah, sorry. I mean that can I make any irreversible damage to the earspeakers if I get a magnet close to it? (in real life, if one sets it down to a loudspeaker for example)
> I am also curious if has any health implications to hold 580V dc on your head for that matter.


 
   
  One more way to look at this:
  Martin Logan makes hybrid loudspeakers with dynamic woofers, power amplifiers, a transformer for the amplifier power supply and a transformer for the electrostatic panel.
  All those magnetic fields don't seem to bother the electrostatic panels!


----------



## davidsh

Don't have any pictures... Yet at least. You don't really notice it, but it seems the right side of the frame must have snapped at some point. As a result the left cup can't move/swivel (from side to side), and the left side of the headband adjustment can't be adjusted.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I did find it quite funny that nobody had mentioned the earpad being on the wrong way around...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  What do you mean by balanced?
  Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> That's great news! As a fan of the SR-202, I had hoped that the SR-207 would be equally good or better, but feared that the SR-202 being so good was simply a lucky one-off. I'm glad to hear that the SRS-2170 system still seems to be a great bargain and entry into the Stax realm.


 
  That's encouraging .
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> hehe was joking. I use to hate them when I first got them, too bright sounding not enough depth to my music. Fed them with the right amplification and I got it singing.


 
  I love bright sounding phones . What do you mean feeding them with the right amp? Does that mean the stock amp that comes with them aren't enough?
   
   
  Wondering if I should get a 2170 system. Or perhaps just trying to find a Lambda Signature (I'd have to find some other amp with this option). Of course the first is alot cheaper and easier to obtain. If the difference isn't too big, I may just get the 2170. I'll probably be using my portable setup more while the Stax will be the rare occasions I get to sit down for music.


----------



## davidsh

I can recommend the Signature


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I can recommend the Signature


 
  They are pretty hard to find these days . Ebay bidders keep taking me by surprise.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> How's the bass extension on the 2170 system? I know they're no LCD-2, but if I'm used to hear the Mad Dog (LCD-2 esque bass) how much of a change would I be in for?


 
   
  Nothing wrong with the bass extension but I think you are talking about the bass bloom or slam, not extension.  They are a bit too wooly by my standards but that is the amps fault, not the headphones.  They sound just fine off the BHSE. 
   
  I really don't see why people rave so much about the LCD-2 bass though.  It really does planars a disservice as it is so bloody out of control.  Now put it on the wrong amp (which most people will use) and it's just a wall of bass.  That's hardly the point of the exercise... 
   
  Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> Really? Why? I have 2 pairs of SR202 and I feel that they sound as good as my SR407 and sound better than my HE60.
> 
> Wachara C.


 
   
  Same thing here, the 202 is one of the best Lambdas.  The 207 is a bit brighter but not by much. 
   
  As for the HE60, try to move the drivers as far back as you can.  Completely changes the signature. 
   
  Quote:  





> BTW CDPlayer, you'd better not use benzene as it's a carcinogen. Pretty weird that the manual recommends it.


 
   
  The manual says not to use benzene as it will melt the plastic...
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> What do you mean by balanced?


 
   
  Even handed, close to neutral etc.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Put that in the LCD-2 thread and you'll be banned from the thread in an instant. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I've heard it on tube amps and I have no idea why anyone would want that kind of sound. "Wall of bass" describes exactly like what I heard.


----------



## n3rdling

I took a lot of crap for posting similar thoughts in that thread back in the LCD2s hey-day.  Name calling, threats via pm, etc.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The manual says not to use benzene as it will melt the plastic...


 
   
  Ah that does make more sense.


----------



## CDPlayer

milosz, Michgelsen - thanks for the info; I think I'll stick to the ethanol.
   
  spritzer - in my original post I've included a picture of the instructions printed on the original Stax box, which says, verbatim: "The remaining old double-sided tape should be cleaned by rubbing with absorbent gauze soaked in alcohol or benzene. It can be removed by trimming little by little with the fingertips. Under no circumstances use solvents such as paint thinner."
   
  So benzene is safe (if somewhat stinky). I use it a fair bit for cleaning off residual glue from CD jewel cases, and never had any problems.


----------



## davidsh

Then the Stax plastic most be resistant to benzene. That is a good thing...


----------



## Michgelsen

Benzene is certainly not safe for yourself. Paint thinner is usually toluene, sometimes (with) xylene. Both toluene and xylene are much like benzene, except a little less dangerous for humans but still far from harmless. However, since benzene, toluene and xylene are all pretty similar aromatic hydrocarbons, it doesn't make much sense that one of them would be safe will the other ones should 'under no circumstances' be used..!
   
  So yes, stick to ethanol or isopropanol. For cleaning sticker residue from CD cases I always use isopropanol too, with great results. Jewel cases are made of polystyrene, which is not resistant to aromatic hydrocarbons, so you're lucky to not have had any problems with those (yet).


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Benzene is certainly not safe for yourself. Paint thinner is usually toluene, sometimes (with) xylene. Both toluene and xylene are much like benzene, except a little less dangerous for humans but still far from harmless. However, since benzene, toluene and xylene are all pretty similar aromatic hydrocarbons, it doesn't make much sense that one of them would be safe will the other ones should 'under no circumstances' be used..!
> 
> So yes, stick to ethanol or isopropanol. For cleaning sticker residue from CD cases I always use isopropanol too, with great results. Jewel cases are made of polystyrene, which is not resistant to aromatic hydrocarbons, so you're lucky to not have had any problems with those (yet).


 
   
  Thanks for the info. I do understand that a lot of the home chemistry isn't good for one's health, so stick to well-ventilated environments and short exposures.
   
  The stuff that I used is sold under the name "Shellite", which I assumed, probably incorrectly, being the same as benzene. If it isn't the same, then that would explain the absense of problems with the CD jewel cases.


----------



## DefQon

*** pissed off now, fired up my 404 this morning only to be greeted by channel imbalance, tried on separate amps and adaptors same problem, left channel is hardly there and I haven't used the 404 in weeks.
   
  Super pissed. Might just sell this one off.
   
  EDIT: Ok retried it again, doesn't seem as much as before, don't know if its the headphones or my cold.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> *** pissed off now, fired up my 404 this morning only to be greeted by channel imbalance, tried on separate amps and adaptors same problem, left channel is hardly there and I haven't used the 404 in weeks.
> 
> Super pissed. Might just sell this one off.
> 
> EDIT: Ok retried it again, doesn't seem as much as before, don't know if its the headphones or my cold.


 
  Probably the latter. I HATE when a cold mess with my hearing, and I get kinda scared it won't turn back to normal.. Good I got a balance control on the T1 anyway, but on the other hand it trickers my latent ocd. Not good when vocals are often placed a bit to the left or right 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I think I would like just a tad more extension to the bass, actually. Just a little bit more. The bass just isn't enough for the 20 Hz 5 stringed bass in Michael Bublés Home.
   
On another note I don't think the LCD bass is bad at all. You do make it sound like it sounds like single stringed bass all the way. The bassstage (as in soundstage ) is a bit crowded, and the bass isn't that tactile, but it isn't bad at all, wall of bass is a bit drastic...


----------



## jjinh

I also have two pairs of the SR-202s - great headphones. Since the SR-207s are similar I might buy a pair to try out


----------



## jjinh

And I dont know if this will help (as I havent tried it on my Stax) but to remove minor sticky residues I sometimes use tape or blu-tack. Their stickiness helps them stick to sticky stuff... and they seem  reasonably non-destructive/gentle.


----------



## davidsh

On another note I am afraid that I like the HE-500 tonality better for vocals. Seems the Stax  easilycan seem a slight bit raspy and also slightly nasal depending on the recording. Won't cast judgement as of now, just an observation.
   
  What's the difference between the normal and pro bias in practice? Like sound wise, not technically?
The sound seems more soft the one time I tried the normal bias.


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> On another note I am afraid that I like the HE-500 tonality better for vocals. Seems the Stax  easilycan seem a slight bit raspy and also slightly nasal depending on the recording. Won't cast judgement as of now, just an observation.


 
  That sounds more like a Lambda quality. The Omegas tend to be smoother with vocals.


----------



## DefQon

Might be due to the cold weather for it to be having channel imbalance.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





anetode said:


> That sounds more like a Lambda quality. The Omegas tend to be smoother with vocals.


 
  Just cut it! I havn't got the money.
   
  But what you say is true, though. I have tried the 007 mk2 somewhat recently. No nastiness to be found there, they are almost a too pleasent listen in some way. Nah, I'm probably just talking nonsense...
   
  They sound quite amazing with instrumental stuff, though. Would just be kinda annoyed if I will only like them 90% for vocals.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> What's the difference between the normal and pro bias in practice? Like sound wise, not technically?
> The sound seems more soft the one time I tried the normal bias.


 
   
  If you're comparing pro to normal bias you're comparing different headphones with different sounds... and we all have our individual preferences soundwise. Plus Stax stopped making normal bias headphones many many many many years ago.


----------



## autoteleology

I feel like you could have addressed the question better. If they sound different, how and why? Many of the pro-bias earspeakers have a normal-bias counterpart that share everything but the driver. Why do they sound significantly different, and is there any kind of general standard difference between them in sound?


----------



## DefQon

***, confirmed 100% channel imbalance. Removed it from the housing and inspected under the sunlight if there is any arc'd holes on the membrane and there isn't. Sound isn't distorted but if I play some music with some mid-bass sounds like it is sort of flappy and distorted not very badly though. I'm guessing the membrane tension has come undone a bit, how it happened I have no fking clue.
   
  Anyone got a spare SR-404 driver they are able to sell to me?
   
  Is there anyway of tensioning the membrane without pulling it apart? Maybe some indirect heat would tension it?


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I quite like the LCD-2 bass... But I know that I can't expect the same bass power in electrostats. Basically what I'm asking is if I can hear the really low electronic notes (50hz and below let's say) with a basic stat setup...


----------



## DefQon

Unless someone can help me point a fix or possibly selling me a 404 Sig driver.
   
  Selling my SR-404 as parts or repair as a interest check at this time.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/667299/ic-stax-sr-404-signature-left-channel-imbalance


----------



## Amarphael

Quote:


mechgamer123 said:


> I quite like the LCD-2 bass... But I know that I can't expect the same bass power in electrostats. Basically what I'm asking is if I can hear the really low electronic notes (50hz and below let's say) with a basic stat setup...


 
   
  Yes, quite easily down to the lowest octave, tho that's also source dependant. Just don't expect to get punched in the ear as with the LCD2.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Put that in the LCD-2 thread and you'll be banned from the thread in an instant.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Nahh, I've only been banned from one thread and that's just because amp makers can't deal with people calling them on their crap. 
   
  Tube amps and high current delivery with low output impedance doesn't really mix.  It can be done though but needs transformers and very careful design. 
   
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> milosz, Michgelsen - thanks for the info; I think I'll stick to the ethanol.
> 
> spritzer - in my original post I've included a picture of the instructions printed on the original Stax box, which says, verbatim: "The remaining old double-sided tape should be cleaned by rubbing with absorbent gauze soaked in alcohol or benzene. It can be removed by trimming little by little with the fingertips. Under no circumstances use solvents such as paint thinner."
> 
> So benzene is safe (if somewhat stinky). I use it a fair bit for cleaning off residual glue from CD jewel cases, and never had any problems.


 
   
  I don't know what instructions you have but all the Stax manuals from the 80's say no solvent's and the instructions on the Lambda earpad boxes say: "Under no circumstances use solvents such a paint thinner."   So no, benzene is not safe. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Unless someone can help me point a fix or possibly selling me a 404 Sig driver.
> 
> Selling my SR-404 as parts or repair as a interest check at this time.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/667299/ic-stax-sr-404-signature-left-channel-imbalance


 
   
  Let them play for 2 weeks and they will be back to normal. 
   
  Quote: 





amarphael said:


> Quote:
> 
> Yes, quite easily down to the lowest octave, tho that's also source dependant. Just don't expect to get punched in the ear as with the LCD2.


 
   
  Yup, a lot of output at 20Hz


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nahh, I've only been banned from one thread and that's just because amp makers can't deal with people calling them on their crap.
> 
> Yup, a lot of output at 20Hz


 
  Going to test if they go that low. Brb 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  And I was back: They do have output below 20Hz, almost none at 15. But they seem to start rolling off at around 35Hz, even more so at 30Hz. They do dig slightly deeper than my HE-500, and especially they do that more convincingly. We are talking about the signature, right?
   
  Anywayz, any amps in particular? I do own the HE-500 which is kinda similar in many ways.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nahh, I've only been banned from one thread and that's just because amp makers can't deal with people calling them on their crap.
> 
> 
> Let them play for 2 weeks and they will be back to normal.


 
   
  lol only 2 threads? Think I've been banned from like 4 or 5 threads all up.
   
  Thanks, but 2 weeks? I thought a few hours would cure the problem. Will post back in about 2 weeks time and see if they fix themselves up.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Tube amps and high current delivery with low output impedance doesn't really mix.  It can be done though but needs transformers and very careful design.


 
   
  4 x 6c33 per channel in OTL works great. Does suck a bit of power and warm up the room.
  Perfect for colder climates.


----------



## davidsh

Actually the hole frequency response seem fairly smooth. I found them to be rising a little from 1 kHz to 2, then falling slightly from 2 to a bit below 5 kHz and then going up quite a lot at 7 kHz and with some peaks and valleys and stuffs at 10+ kHz.
   
  Would be nice if I could actually see a proper freqcuency response of these headphones...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Actually the hole frequency response seem fairly smooth. I found them to be rising a little from 1 kHz to 2, then falling slightly from 2 to a bit below 5 kHz and then going up some more from there with some peaks and valleys and stuffs at 10+ kHz.
> 
> Would be nice if I could actually see a proper freqcuency response of these headphones...


 
  Innerfidelity or purrin's plotting thread (or changster).


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Innerfidelity or purrin's plotting thread (or changster).


 
  The Signature is not to be found on either site.


----------



## davidsh

Here comes some pictures form my iphoen *shrug*


----------



## DefQon

Now I want a T1 and Sig.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Now I want a T1 and Sig.


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> And I was back: They do have output below 20Hz, almost none at 15. But they seem to start rolling off at around 35Hz, even more so at 30Hz. They do dig slightly deeper than my HE-500, and especially they do that more convincingly. We are talking about the signature, right?


 
   
  I'd sooner pin that on our own hearing becoming less sensitive as you near 20Hz. With a proper seal the bass response should be (pretty much) as flat as a board.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> I'd sooner pin that on our own hearing becoming less sensitive as you near 20Hz. With a proper seal the bass response should be (pretty much) as flat as a board.


 
  I definitely don't get a proper seal. The pads won't stick a 100% to the frame of the cups... Frequency response or not, it seems that there is a roll off in bass energy. That might be due to my hearing. You sure that one is for the lambda sig? Here is a picture of the manual:


----------



## loligagger

After some digging it looks like it could be the graph for the SR-404. Maybe look at replacing the earpads?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> After some digging it looks like it could be the graph for the SR-404. Maybe look at replacing the earpads?


 
  They seem to be fine, they just won't stick enought to the frame...


----------



## DefQon

Pads not sticking properly to the frame is normal especially with the newer pads. The vintage line Lambda model series had a very strong type of black adhesive that took a lot effort to remove.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Here comes some pictures form my iphoen *shrug*


 
   
  So the sliding mechanism on the left hand side is glued to the arc? That shouldnt stop it swivelling. I think the seller should have told you about that. If you see spare lambda parts on the FS forum and other places snap them up!


----------



## davidsh

How much would you say it degrade the value, just for reference? A 100$ or so?


----------



## DefQon

Probably. But you can always replace the headband assembly with the current in production Basic line one which don't cost a lot but you do ruin the genuine vintage look of the Lambda headphones.


----------



## jaycalgary

The new ones don't fit. I have a few ark assembly's for Lambda Signatures.


----------



## DefQon

The new ones do fit you need to remove that washer on the side of the housing.


----------



## MrViolin

Quote : 





> Now I want a T1 and Sig.


 
  Was going to say that you already have an sr-omega. Then I remembered that you sold those off. So... you selling the rest of your stax?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mrviolin said:


> Was going to say that you already have an sr-omega. Then I remembered that you sold those off. So... you selling the rest of your stax?


 
  Maybe, maybe not. I've got a SR-404 that just fked up yday on me with a channel imbalance. I pulled the dust covers off and dissembled the drivers from the housing and the problem seems to be loose tension with the membrane. Upon power up the channel imbalance is not there but a good 1 minute into the song the left starts dying and becomes distorted when playing music with some bass/low ends. If I blow into the back side of the stator the sound balances up again but there is some crinkling noise to be heard but I can't identify any holes or arc's in the membrane under sunlight.
   
  Also in the for sale section I've had one pm from a 0 feedback buyer from Denmark who wants to buy it but I replied back I'll get to him in a few days as I have exams going on this week.
   
  I really want a T1 before I sell everything off. I've heard the T1S and was going to buy it for its balanced input but according to golden ear Stax guru "pkshan", the T1S is inferior to the T1 due to have more crap in the signal path and nobody has commented further.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> 4 x 6c33 per channel in OTL works great. Does suck a bit of power and warm up the room.
> Perfect for colder climates.


 
   
  Yeah  just take the 6C33 pass tubes from the voltage regulator in your MIG jet's radar set.


----------



## Chris J

davidsh said:


> I definitely don't get a proper seal. The pads won't stick a 100% to the frame of the cups... Frequency response or not, it seems that there is a roll off in bass energy. That might be due to my hearing. You sure that one is for the lambda sig? Here is a picture of the manual:



 
 Any idea what the frequency response of a 2170 system would be? Where could I find the plot for a pair?


----------



## rawrster

I finally got into Stax. It took some time to get into it but I got the SR007 in the mail today. I have a SRM-323S amp for now but hopefully one day I'll grab something like a KGSSHV.
   
  The only thing I have is if I push the headphones towards my ear I get this strange sound. It's hard to describe but is that what is referred to as a squeal? I remember reading about something like that with the SR007 when I was looking into getting them.


----------



## n3rdling

Which type of 007?  mk1? 
   
  That's described as the "Stax fart" and it's harmless.  It's just the diaphragm flexing from the air pressure you're increasing within the pad cavity.


----------



## rawrster

It's pretty annoying to say the least. Is there anyway to remove it or at least reduce it? It sounds like a no however. In any case I probably do have to change out the earpads. It's pretty worn and given the price I paid it's still a good deal even with the extra cost of the pads.
   
  It should be a MK1. The SN is 71321.


----------



## Solude

Can you fix it?  Yes it's called the mk2.  No fart, lower performance.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> I finally got into Stax. It took some time to get into it but I got the SR007 in the mail today. I have a SRM-323S amp for now but hopefully one day I'll grab something like a KGSSHV.
> 
> The only thing I have is if I push the headphones towards my ear I get this strange sound. It's hard to describe but is that what is referred to as a squeal? I remember reading about something like that with the SR007 when I was looking into getting them.


 
   
   
  Congrats!
  Squealing is not the same as farting. Squealing refers to high pitched noises that can be caused by dust in the drivers, which shouldn't happen with Staxen as their drivers have good dust covers on them.
   
  If the Stax fart annoys you, you should not press the headphones towards your ears. A few people report hearing the fart under normal use as well, for example when turning their heads, but not many.
  The best solution is to embrace the fart as being part of the great headphones of Stax, and as the assurance that you have created a good seal between the headphones and your head, in turn assuring the best possible sound from them. I am not bothered the slightest by the phenomenon, I see it as part of the headphones which I value so much.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> It's pretty annoying to say the least. Is there anyway to remove it or at least reduce it? It sounds like a no however. In any case I probably do have to change out the earpads. It's pretty worn and given the price I paid it's still a good deal even with the extra cost of the pads.
> 
> It should be a MK1. The SN is 71321.


 
   
  One way to reduce it would be to bend the top bars to reduce the clamping effect and the overall seal. But this once again changes the sound because it breaks the seal.  The fart is something you'll just have to deal with in order to enjoy the great sound of the MK1's, unfortunately.


----------



## DefQon

The infamous Stax fart strikes back!


----------



## rawrster

I had no idea about this Stax fart. I've only heard the MK2 and it didn't have that as well as the SR009. As long as that's normal not that big a deal then. I do like what I'm hearing with these headphones so far


----------



## davidsh

I already feel like I'll never perceive sound of headphones the same way after owning my Stax for some days...


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> I had no idea about this Stax fart. I've only heard the MK2 and it didn't have that as well as the SR009. As long as that's normal not that big a deal then. I do like what I'm hearing with these headphones so far


 

 SR009 does have the stax fart 'phenomenon'.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> SR009 does have the stax fart 'phenomenon'.


 
  Correct. Not as big as the SR007MKI, but it's there. No biggie IMO.


----------



## dukeskd

BTW guys, do the Koss ESP950 (and previous models) also have this fart?


----------



## mechgamer123

Another question: How does the Stax SRS-2050 compare with the SRS-2170? Or more specifically, the 202 vs the 207?


----------



## davidsh

I can't even get a proper seal with the sr-007. When I tried it, the pads tended to flip up behind my ears leaving a small gap. At least it felt that way.


----------



## jackskelly

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> SR009 does have the stax fart 'phenomenon'.


 
   
  It does. I remember experiencing it the first time I ever tried out the SR-009s, and I remember thinking "that's quite amusing" (the term "Stax fart").


----------



## autoteleology

My SR-303 make this awful crunching sound like stepping on a tin can if I press them to my ears. Is that the Stax fart?


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> My SR-303 make this awful crunching sound like stepping on a tin can if I press them to my ears. Is that the Stax fart?


 
   
  Yes.


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> Yes.


 
  no. that could most likely be a dust in a stator. the fart happens when you put the headphones and when you move your head, open/close your jaw then a sound similar to farting occur


----------



## telecaster

forbigger said:


> no. that could most likely be a dust in a stator. the fart happens when you put the headphones and when you move your head, open/close your jaw then a sound similar to farting occur



Do you own a pair ofstax? Because that's farting. no dust problem, just the famous stax fart.


----------



## miceblue

Can Stax headphones defecate in addition to farting?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Can Stax headphones defecate in addition to farting?


 
  They'll probably defecate bliss into your ears


----------



## MrViolin

Quote: 





> Maybe, maybe not. I've got a SR-404 that just fked up yday on me with a channel imbalance. I pulled the dust covers off and dissembled the drivers from the housing and the problem seems to be loose tension with the membrane. Upon power up the channel imbalance is not there but a good 1 minute into the song the left starts dying and becomes distorted when playing music with some bass/low ends. If I blow into the back side of the stator the sound balances up again but there is some crinkling noise to be heard but I can't identify any holes or arc's in the membrane under sunlight.
> 
> Also in the for sale section I've had one pm from a 0 feedback buyer from Denmark who wants to buy it but I replied back I'll get to him in a few days as I have exams going on this week.
> 
> I really want a T1 before I sell everything off. I've heard the T1S and was going to buy it for its balanced input but according to golden ear Stax guru "pkshan", the T1S is inferior to the T1 due to have more crap in the signal path and nobody has commented further.


 
  Oh I see.  At first I thought the buyer was going to buy the broken pair, but after reasoning I found it to be another gear 
   
  Well, just go buy the movie and you can see one 
  Hope you can find one soon! Meh. Still a T1. With an S and other things.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> BTW guys, do the Koss ESP950 (and previous models) also have this fart?


 
   
  The ESP-950  and ESP-10  do have a staxfart-like thing, though it is a little harder to evoke.  The ESP-9 had a very mild fart.  I don't know about the ESP-6, -7  or -8; as they were all variations on the ESP-9 form, I suspect they were similar in flatulence to the ESP-9.
   
   
  By the way, my understanding is that the stax fart is not caused by air pressure of the trapped air in the earcup / ear working on the diaphragm- it is from the air pressure moving the DUST SEAL around - the dust seal is a plastic film "envelope" that completely seals the driver, and allows no dust to reach the stators or diaphragm. All electrostatic transducers use these, otherwise dust would collect in the driver, rendering it useless after a few hours of operation.  Electrostatic drivers need to be totally free of dust, and so the drivers are sealed in what essentially are plastic bags.  It's that plastic dust cover you hear flapping around when you press the earcup, causing the air pressure inside the earcup to rise and push the dust seal around.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I can't even get a proper seal with the sr-007. When I tried it, the pads tended to flip up behind my ears leaving a small gap. At least it felt that way.


 
   
  Maybe you didnt have the pads rotated properly into their correct orientation?


----------



## Nemeske88

Ha! Found a "baby" STAX.  At least it belonged to a baby...


----------



## jjinh

Those look really trashed. Maybe davidsh can buy it for the arc?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Another question: How does the Stax SRS-2050 compare with the SRS-2170? Or more specifically, the 202 vs the 207?


 
   
  The amps are pretty much identical, the 252S is just better made and better executed.  The 207 is also a bit more refined but a bit brighter on top.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> My SR-303 make this awful crunching sound like stepping on a tin can if I press them to my ears. Is that the Stax fart?


 
   
  No it most definitely doesn't sound like crunching metal.  It's more like a whoopee cushion sound.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Those look really trashed. Maybe davidsh can buy it for the arc?


 
  They are mine. Bidding on them.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Those look really trashed. Maybe davidsh can buy it for the arc?


 
  Definitely could. Just think it will be too expensive in the end.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> They are mine. Bidding on them.


 
  Wereb't you supposed to sell of your headphones


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Wereb't you supposed to sell of your headphones


 
  I'am, doing it one by one, sold off my SR-34 electrets last night, going to be listing my 202's soon. 
   
  And I'm still pissed off about my 404 left driver flaking out with imbalance and crinkling noise from the membrane on low end or high frequency. Contacted Yamasinc was told it would be replaced with 407 drivers but the cost ain't worth it, highendmods.uk said they can do it but  260gbp including VAT for 407 replacements and just got a reply from the Australian Stax distributor saying they do stock 404 drivers but only sold in pairs @ $440 and if I need foam replaced $30 a pair. 
   
  Spritzer recommends me playing music through them for 2 weeks but I don't think it will fix it.
   
  ***.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I'am, doing it one by one, sold off my SR-34 electrets last night, going to be listing my 202's soon.


 
  That's sad


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> That's sad


 
  Oh well, I'm completely done with this hobby.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Oh well, I'm completely done with this hobby.


 
  You don't like the hobby, or can't stay in it?
   
  The left driver is probably still working, since the cables going to the left driver doesn't work. It's a normal bias lambda, right?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> You don't like the hobby, or can't stay in it?
> 
> The left driver is probably still working, since the cables going to the left driver doesn't work. It's a normal bias lambda, right?


 
  Don't like the hobby no more, too much bs going on. If I'd settle on anything headphone related again it be would an end game Stax or HD800 rig, all the rest are crap (except few Sony's that I like).
   
  Don't know possibly just due to the cables but who knows what abuse they have gone through. As jjinh said its pretty trashed.


----------



## wink

Concern for your wallet is* forbidden.*  Get over it....


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Don't like the hobby no more, too much bs going on. If I'd settle on anything headphone related again it be would an end game Stax or HD800 rig, all the rest are crap (except few Sony's that I like).
> 
> Don't know possibly just due to the cables but who knows what abuse they have gone through. As jjinh said its pretty trashed.


 
  Don't really follow your logic..


----------



## wink

He needs a good night's sleep and a few jours of music therapy.
   
  Something along the lines of this....


----------



## Nemeske88

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> The left driver is probably still working, since the cables going to the left driver doesn't work.


 
   
   
  The drivers also could worth something if it's only the cable, but it looks like that some patina or something is on the stators under the dust cover. Maybe these were used in a swimming pool to ease somebody's boring excercises?


----------



## telecaster

Having a hobby for buying and selling gear? That's Worth give up for sure!
  My hobby is listenning music, I sure won't give that one up...


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Having a hobby for buying and selling gear? That's Worth give up for sure!
> My hobby is listenning music, I sure won't give that one up...


 
  More than a vulgar hobby, music is a passion and an inspiration. Gear is nothing but a mean, not something we listen _to, _but something we listen _through_.


----------



## forbigger

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Do you own a pair ofstax? Because that's farting. no dust problem, just the famous stax fart.


 

 009/007/404LE/BHSE. Do you need a picture ?? FYI, I dont usually comment if I dont own one. Also the person asking that it makes "crunching sound like stepping on a tin can". My understanding, thats not a sound of fart. That sounded like a static resulted from dust. a fart is well, sounded like someone farting, simple as that. There's no better way to describe it


----------



## Michgelsen

A person farting can make a variety of noises, therefore, 'a farting noise' is a less precise description of the sound you hear when pressing on the headphones. I find the description 'a crunching sound like stepping on a tin can' to be more precise actually. When you step on an empty soda can on the street, quickly and firmly, that sound is more like the 'Stax fart', than an actual human farting. The Stax fart is more of a short, crackling sound, than the more muffled sound that someone farting usually makes.


----------



## davidsh

A more sharp and slightly metallic fart?


----------



## forbigger

english not my mother tongue but my understanding that a noises resulted from stepping a tin can have a metallic rustling sound to it and its not close to all farting sound i have ever heard with the headphones. bearing that in mind, the closest sound that mimic stepping on a tin can is resulted frm a static due to dust. why did i say that? because at one point of time, i hv a similar sound frm my 007nand it is due to dust.
   
  now, can someone post the sound of the stax fart and end the debacle once and for all


----------



## duncan1

The official comment from Stax in their literature is a "rustling "    sound although I have heard a low frequency noise as I have hbp and pressure builds up in my ear.[Verified by a hospital Audiologist.]


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





milosz said:


> The ESP-950  and ESP-10  do have a staxfart-like thing, though it is a little harder to evoke.  The ESP-9 had a very mild fart.  I don't know about the ESP-6, -7  or -8; as they were all variations on the ESP-9 form, I suspect they were similar in flatulence to the ESP-9.
> 
> 
> By the way, my understanding is that the stax fart is not caused by air pressure of the trapped air in the earcup / ear working on the diaphragm- it is from the air pressure moving the DUST SEAL around - the dust seal is a plastic film "envelope" that completely seals the driver, and allows no dust to reach the stators or diaphragm. All electrostatic transducers use these, otherwise dust would collect in the driver, rendering it useless after a few hours of operation.  Electrostatic drivers need to be totally free of dust, and so the drivers are sealed in what essentially are plastic bags.  It's that plastic dust cover you hear flapping around when you press the earcup, causing the air pressure inside the earcup to rise and push the dust seal around.


 

 Kudos and dziekuje for the info!


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





forbigger said:


> 009/007/404LE/BHSE. Do you need a picture ?? FYI, I dont usually comment if I dont own one. Also the person asking that it makes "crunching sound like stepping on a tin can". My understanding, thats not a sound of fart. That sounded like a static resulted from dust. a fart is well, sounded like someone farting, simple as that. There's no better way to describe it


 
   
  A crunching or crinkling is *exactly* how I would describe the fart with my NB-Lambdas. I wouldn't say tin can though.


----------



## DefQon

My 404 farted so much that the left channel died.


----------



## Beefy

defqon said:


> My 404 farted so much that the left channel died.




Oh, go be all emo teen angst somewhere else. Poo happens.


----------



## DefQon

I wish I was a teen again LOL


----------



## davidsh

Must've played some serioous bass then...


----------



## davidsh

Can you recommend some music that is rendered very well on Staxes, not necessarily classic? I would prefer chamber music or acoustic and the like. I really notice how they shine with certain peaces of music. But in general they don't shine with vocals...


----------



## singh

How is the SRM-313 ? i got it with my Lambda NB (both are on their way ) , but i already have T1W and SRM1/mk2. shld i keep it or sell it ?


----------



## gilency

Keep the one with the golden caps and the silver wire.
  It has to sound better.


----------



## singh

Lol, Dont drive him out like this, he was a bit rude but this is just too much. I havnt seen his post since


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





satorarepotenet said:


> More than a vulgar hobby, music is a passion and an inspiration. Gear is nothing but a mean, not something we listen _to, _but something we listen _through_.


 
  I have a Master degree in Musicology m8.. Stravinsky's Rite of Spring directed by Boulez, NY Phila is awesome on 507/006TS. People bashing stax headphones or stax amps should bash their own recordings instead.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Keep the one with the golden caps and the silver wire.
> It has to sound better.


 
  Nah you need to wait for the burn-in period to settle at around 2000 hour mark and you rolling pro-bias jacks improve sound too.
  Quote: 





singh said:


> Lol, Dont drive him out like this, he was a bit rude but this is just too much. I havnt seen his post since


 
  LOL, you want to sell any of those you mentioned, PM me 
  Quote: 





telecaster said:


> I have a Master degree in Musicology m8.. Stravinsky's Rite of Spring directed by Boulez, NY Phila is awesome on 507/006TS. *People bashing stax headphones or stax amps should bash their own recordings instead.*


 
  True.


----------



## gilency

(DefQon and Wink) You Ausies are all right. Would be fun to have you guys at the SoCal meet next month.​ Satororepotenet can keep his earbuds. I'll keep my Staxes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



* *​  ​


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Hmm, so assuming I can get the 2050 system fairly cheaply, it wouldn't be that bad of an intro stat, correct?


----------



## Michgelsen

I absolutely love the Bach recordings on the BIS label, by the Bach Collegium Japan. Supreme in more than one aspect, and certainly superbly rendered by Staxen.
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Can you recommend some music that is rendered very well on Staxes, not necessarily classic? I would prefer chamber music or acoustic and the like. I really notice how they shine with certain peaces of music. But in general they don't shine with vocals...


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The two headphones sound quite different from one another.  The 007 is a bit on the warm side, 009 more neutral (think LCD2 vs HD600).  009 has a significantly larger soundstage which is part of the reason I recommended it to you (I like a big soundstage for classical).  Both have top-notch imaging.


 
   
  That was a helpful comparison n3rdling. I had the opportunity today to listen to the HD800s, HD650s, and LCD2. I was specifically interested in the transducer's ability to resolve complex forte passages in orchestral musc ... specifically those from single mic'd mono recordings (how nerdy can that be). And I was only interested in the transducer, not the amp (I just brought along my iPod and E12 Fiio amp). My HD600s and Woo WA2 have this issue and amp changes haven't resolved it.
   
  I found the LCD2 not to really work very well in this respect or have the best tone. Seemed a little muddy and quite dynamically congested for this type of music.  Importantly, they were a total ergonomic disaster for me. I couldn't really keep them on my head for any length of time.
   
  The HD650's had the best tone (like my HD600s) but the HD800's had a bit better instrument separation and seemed to be able to resolve the cacaphony a little better than the other Sennheiser. A $1000.00 better? Well sure. Better is better. Tone wise, the HD800 seemed a little brighter but that brightness was able to also resolve some higher frequency passages in the music. It was the Celesta passage near the end of Bartok's Music for Strings, Percussion, and Celesta where the HD800 excelled. Here this passage can be quite faint in the recording.
   
  I guess my ears are old and tired because between the two Senn's is wasn't like night and day. If I go for an upgraded dynamic I'll go for the HD800s though as they are incredibly comfortable.
   
  Another interesting thing I noticed was that a modern multi mic'd DDD recording of the same passage of music was acceptable on all the headphones.
   
  I also asked the shop owner about Stax phones. He told me that, according to Edifier, they might be getting them in by the end of the year. That would be great! Edifier is in my town, so perhaps I'll phone them up. A side by side with the HD800 and Stax rig would be really good.
   
  PS
   
  That SRS2170 system sure sounds interesting! Maybe I'll get that to hold me over for the year.


----------



## gilency

Yes, Suzuki's recordings are wonderful. Yet, I really love Gardiner's cantatas a bit more. Can't go wrong with either.
  The 009's bring up so much realism they disappear just like magic.
  Just returned from Toronto and happened to see this on the street. It made my day!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





gilency said:


> (DefQon and Wink) You Ausies are all right. Would be fun to have you guys at the SoCal meet next month.​ Satororepotenet can keep his earbuds. I'll keep my Staxes
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 




   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Hmm, so assuming I can get the 2050 system fairly cheaply, it wouldn't be that bad of an intro stat, correct?


 
  Definitely. A user by alias of Yuka something something was selling SR-2050 system for around $450 month ago, not sure if still there.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> mechgamer123 said:
> ...


 
  Bah, I can get a 2170 system for not too much more than that! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I'm talking even cheaper.


----------



## DefQon

2170 go for $600 not including shipping from priceJapan is the cheapest I know you can buy brand new with warranty, otherwise used is your only other option.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> 2170 go for $600 not including shipping from priceJapan is the cheapest I know you can buy brand new with warranty, otherwise used is your only other option.


 
  I found one for 52,710 yen brand new from a Japanese company that accepts paypal, and I can always have a buddy in Japan pick one up used for even less


----------



## wink

Quote:Gilency 





> Would be fun to have you guys at the SoCal meet next month.


 
  Would be wonderful to attend, but I don't even go that far for my holidays.
   
  I wondered what SoCal was for a moment. I figured it was somewhere between full strength and lo-cal milk.
   
  I hear it never rains in Southern California..........  I had some here this morning.
   
  Have a wonderful time at the meet.  If DefQon sells his 'phones he may have enough for a deposit on the fare.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> LOL, you want to sell any of those you mentioned, PM me


 
   
  I dont have them yet, i dont think ill be selling the Lambda , i was asking about SRM313. Anyone ?


----------



## wink

Quote:singh 





> i was asking about SRM313. Anyone ?


 
  Does it make the Lambdas singh?


----------



## gilency

Yeah, it looks like is going to be a great good meet.
  You get to see the "usual suspects", including  Milos, who tends to have the greatest headphones.


----------



## livewire

I'll be making that trek, there are a few TOTL cans that I need to experience.
   
  And....yes....he....does.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> I found one for 52,710 yen brand new from a Japanese company that accepts paypal, and I can always have a buddy in Japan pick one up used for even less


 
  Well you save $55. Yahoo Japan has em cheaper sometimes.
   
  Quote: 





wink said:


> I wondered what SoCal was for a moment. I figured it was somewhere between full strength and lo-cal milk.
> 
> I hear it never rains in Southern California..........  I had some here this morning.
> 
> Have a wonderful time at the meet.  If DefQon sells his 'phones he may have enough for a deposit on the fare.


 
  hahaha
   
  Nah I've changed my mind not going to be selling everything off just a few stuff. No time for holidays here but the first place I'd want to go is maybe Japan or Germany.
  Quote: 





singh said:


> I dont have them yet, i dont think ill be selling the Lambda , i was asking about SRM313. Anyone ?


 
  I have heard the SRM-313 for a brief time not with the Lambda though and it's hard to compare it to the T1 or the MK2's I've owned and heard at different times. I felt the SRM-313 was sort of nasal sounding with my Lambda Pro's and Sigma Pro's that I had at the time.
   
  What I meant in my original post is if you do end up parting with your T1W or SR1 MK2 let me know.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> I found one for 52,710 yen brand new from a Japanese company that accepts paypal, and I can always have a buddy in Japan pick one up used for even less


 
   
  That's a good price and a good intro to Stax. I wish they sold the headphones separately as I dont need another of those amps.
   
   
  Quote: 





gilency said:


> Yeah, it looks like is going to be a good meet.
> You get to see the "usual suspects", including  Milos, who tends to have the greatest headphones.


 
   
  He does have a lot of fantastic stuff... probably needs his own security guard for his table right?


----------



## gilency

A couple of Ninja girls would be good.
  And yes, it does rain sometimes. Last time is when I was 5.


----------



## wink




----------



## realmassy

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> I absolutely love the Bach recordings on the BIS label, by the Bach Collegium Japan. Supreme in more than one aspect, and certainly superbly rendered by Staxen.


 
  +1
  I also recommend the London Baroque cycle on BIS: most of the recordings are available in 24 bit format. Violin timbre on the 009 is just superbe.


----------



## singh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> What I meant in my original post is if you do end up parting with your T1W or SR1 MK2 let me know.


 
  K
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Does it make the Lambdas sing?


 
  ^^ Corrected ( Singh is my surname/ last name, so keep it out )
  and Thats what am asking.


----------



## Michgelsen

Elusive disc does sell the SR-207 separately, so it must be possible. Maybe if you just ask? I don't know where you'd want to buy them.
   
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> That's a good price and a good intro to Stax. I wish they sold the headphones separately as I dont need another of those amps.


----------



## DefQon

$420.00. May as well drop in another $150-180 for the 2170 system and then sell off the amp for $200-250.


----------



## shipsupt

This ended up a bit misplaced without a quote!  
   
  RE: Wink saying defqon will have plane fare if he keeps selling stuff...
   
  Not if he keeps buying as fast as he sells!


----------



## DefQon

Collecting Stax stuff is fun. Hopefully I win the next 3 auctions on Yahoo Japan for few other stuff.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Collecting Stax stuff is fun. Hopefully I win the next 3 auctions on Yahoo Japan for few other stuff.


 
   
  You're still here? I thought you were leaving.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





beefy said:


> You're still here? I thought you were leaving.


 
  I thought that too, I don't know why I'm still here myself. Guess I'm cursed with Stax syndrome.


----------



## wink

Also, his wallet is now allergic to money......


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I thought that too, I don't know why I'm still here myself. Guess I'm cursed with Stax syndrome.


 
  You DO actually listen to them, right?


----------



## wink

He framed them on the wall and looks at them wistfully while he saves up for a BHSE.


----------



## yawg

Hi,
   
  Here are some pics of my rigs:
   

   
  Just enjoying my body-and ear-speakers. My ear-speakers, the lowly LNS, but with new leather pads:
   
   

   
  Here are the custom XOs of my Maggies. Still improving my (subjective) sound experience after more than 500 hours of "break-in". Bi-amping with Marantz MA-700 THX monos for the bass panels and EAR 549 tube monos for the midrange panels and treble ribbons:
   

   
  Here is my home theater rig, cheap but great Samsung HD-monitor with SRM-3 energizer. I use the pseudo-surround option of my ole M-Audio card, suits me fine. The SRM-3 has more bite for the movies but for music I prefer my SRM-T1S, sounds a tad sweeter.

   
  The SRM-T1S. Many of you seem to dislike it. What can I do to possibly improve it? Roll the tubes? Nothing wrong with it so far, I reckon.
   

   
  I use these driver tubes in my EAR 549 monos. The best I could find so far, US military 5751 triple mica black plates with extra support rods from the 50s (instead of the original crap Russian ECC83 Tim de Paravicini used). They would be RCA, GE or Sylvanias. The lettering comes off very easily handling them:
   
   

   
  If you can dig good prog rock, try Steven Wilson (Porcupine Tree) "Get All You Deserve". Great live recording in Mexico City with good dynamics and well balanced sound sig. One of my evaluation recordings. Enjoy!
   
  Jörg.


----------



## arnaud

Wow, this is the last gen. Mac pro that was just announced no (beneath the screen)? I thought it was only coming out in the fall


----------



## rubenpp

Quote: 





yawg said:


> The SRM-T1S. Many of you seem to dislike it. What can I do to possibly improve it? Roll the tubes? Nothing wrong with it so far, I reckon.


 
  "*[Mr. Sasaki]* There's not like one best or favorite model but, basically I use an SR-404 and SRM-T1S at home."
   
  Don't see why the T1S can be bad ,when even Sasaki-san uses it.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Wow, this is the last gen. Mac pro that was just announced no (beneath the screen)? I thought it was only coming out in the fall


 
  It's a 2003 vintage G4 Mirror Drive Doors on the left, the last one that could boot MacOS 9. It has two 1.25 Ghz processors but small Flash videos won't play fluently. Otherwise internet works OK. When listening to music from its hard disk I switch off one processor to minimize fan noise.
   
  It was notorious for making a lot of noise and called the "wind tunnel" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  The one under the screen is an old PowerMac 7100/80, those thangs still had floppy drives ...


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> "*[Mr. Sasaki]* There's not like one best or favorite model but, basically I use an SR-404 and SRM-T1S at home."
> 
> Don't see why the T1S can be bad ,when even Sasaki-san uses it.


 
  Thanks for the thumbs up


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Thanks for the thumbs up


 

 Now forget the gear and listen to the music


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Wow, this is the last gen. Mac pro that was just announced no (beneath the screen)? I thought it was only coming out in the fall


 
  Yeah, which Mac is that?
  My earliest Mac was the SE30, then a non brand name with Apple software sometime after John Sculley fired Steve Jobs from Apple and  he licensed the OS system to other brands for a couple of years in the early 1990's.
  I almost bought the Apple II but it was too expensive and went for the worst computer ever created, the IBM PC Jr. My worst purchase ever.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> Wow, this is the last gen. Mac pro that was just announced no (beneath the screen)*? I thought it was only coming out in the fall*


 
   
  No, and it is. Or maybe Q1 2014:
   

   
  I dig it, it looks like one of those subwoofers


----------



## jaycalgary

Fancy trash can.


----------



## miceblue

It's a monster turbine....ha get it?


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The one beneath the screen was a "Power Mac G3 Desktop" or something like that. I used to have one


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Fancy trash can.


 
   
  Not just fancy... it's their fastest and most expandable trash can yet, with up to a 2.5X speed boost, 12 cores, dual GPUs, and supporting up to 36 Thunderbolt 2-based peripherals:
   
  http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2013/06/10/new-mac-pro-promises-fast-furious-face-melting-os-x-action-was-it-worth-the-wait/


----------



## autoteleology

They could have avoided the obvious "trashcan" comparisons if they'd just stuck some kind of grate on top.


----------



## jaycalgary

I am not in the market for one of those. It looks like garbage to me especially having the power cord right on the front like that.


----------



## autoteleology

> especially having the power cord right on the front like that.


 
   
  this
   
  Also, is the SR-3 worth owning? I'm seeing a lot of offers for them right now for cheap.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Yeah, it looks like is going to be a great good meet.
> You get to see the "usual suspects", including  Milos, who tends to have the greatest headphones.


 
  I just got the very rare SR-1 so hopefully I'll be able to bring that along.  Any of you guys happen to have variable bias supply on your KGSSHV?  These run at something like 200V and I'm pretty sure the transformer that came with it is gonna be messed up when it arrives.


----------



## gilency

30V less than a normal bias. 
Is it safe to use 230V?
I only have pro jacks on my amp, but have N SRD7 Mk2


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> this
> 
> Also, is the SR-3 worth owning? I'm seeing a lot of offers for them right now for cheap.


 
  If it's going for around $130-200 may as well get a SR-5 which is better overall.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





gilency said:


> 30V less than a normal bias.
> Is it safe to use 230V?
> I only have pro jacks on my amp, but have N SRD7 Mk2


 
  It depends on which revision of the SR-1 it is.  The earlier version was 150V so normal bias would probably be a bad idea with those.  I'll probably end up testing normal bias on it anyways though.  Maybe I'll take a T1 to run some Lambdas and the SR-1 if it's compatible.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I am not in the market for one of those. It looks like garbage to me especially having the power cord right on the front like that.


 
  Apparently that's the back side. At least that's what it said in the presentation. Then again, it doesn't matter what side you put it. 
   
   
  Since when did a cylinder with a hole at the topic automatically scream trash can? 
   
  Well anyways, it looked more like a ceramic vase/cup than a trash can, to me.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> They could have avoided the obvious "trashcan" comparisons if they'd just stuck some kind of grate on top.


 
   
  Cue the hibachi comparisons then...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Elusive disc does sell the SR-207 separately, so it must be possible. Maybe if you just ask? I don't know where you'd want to buy them.


 
   
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> $420.00. May as well drop in another $150-180 for the 2170 system and then sell off the amp for $200-250.


 
   
  I didnt know they were sold separately. I might email some places or pop by Japan next time I'm in the area. I dont need another one of those amps.
   
  Quote: 





beefy said:


> You're still here? I thought you were leaving.


 
   
  That's also what I thought...
   
  Quote: 





yawg said:


> Here are some pics of my rigs:


 
   
  I see people talking about the macs already.... and you like hannah montana?


----------



## DefQon

Nope still same.
   
  Hopefully the distortion, membrane crinkling noise will cure itself too.
   
  Btw does anyone have a pin-out of the pro-bias jack to SR-002 connector?


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





			
				jjinh said:
			
		

> I see people talking about the macs already.... and you like hannah montana?


 
  Don't even know her. It was just a cheap convenient bag for my camera bought in a German 1-€ shop.


----------



## wink

Quote:Jjinh 





> beefy said:
> 
> 
> > You're still here? I thought you were leaving.
> ...


 
  He's thoroughly Staxified now.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> It depends on which revision of the SR-1 it is.  The earlier version was 150V so normal bias would probably be a bad idea with those.  I'll probably end up testing normal bias on it anyways though.  Maybe I'll take a T1 to run some Lambdas and the SR-1 if it's compatible.


 
   
  Just the first version was 150V, these are 200V but work just fine at 230V.  They never changed anything when moving to 230V, the designs could always handle the extra voltage.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> I have a Master degree in Musicology m8.. Stravinsky's Rite of Spring directed by Boulez, NY Phila is awesome on 507/006TS. People bashing stax headphones or stax amps should bash their own recordings instead.


 
   
  I saw Boulez direct Rite of Spring with Chicago S.O. in 2011... or was it 2012.  Fantastic.  Left me speechless.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Not just fancy... it's their fastest and most expandable trash can yet, with up to a 2.5X speed boost, 12 cores, dual GPUs, and supporting up to 36 Thunderbolt 2-based peripherals:
> 
> http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2013/06/10/new-mac-pro-promises-fast-furious-face-melting-os-x-action-was-it-worth-the-wait/


 
   
  Probably tens times the cost of the same hardware bought off-the-shelf running Ubuntu.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I saw Boulez direct Rite of Spring with Chicago S.O. in 2011... or was it 2012.  Fantastic.  Left me speechless.


 
  Must have been glorious, he conducts with such grip and authority this wonderful piece!


----------



## K_19

Hey all,
   
  Can anyone comment on how comfortable the headphones that use the Lambda frames are?  In addition to my incoming 009's, I'm actually thinking of trying out a lower-end lambda (202, 207 etc) to just to see how they are... sound wise I'm sure they'll be excellent, but my biggest worry is the comfort factor, which I am notoriously picky about.  Basically, I cannot really tolerate anything with hard pads and tight, fixed clamping force for too long... something like the Sennheiser 6x0 series or the Beyers have been really bad for me comfort wise due to their firm pads, harder clamping force and their relative lack of swivel angle.  Even the Koss ESP950's, usually regarded as comfortable to most, I found too uncomfortable due to their total lack of swivel and hard pleather pads, which put too much pressure to sensitive points of my face/jaw.
   
  So how are the Lambda earspeakers in this regard? Do they swivel a reasonable amount? How is the clamping level relative to other headphones? Would you say the pads are softer than those headphones mentioned above?
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Can anyone comment on how comfortable the headphones that use the Lambda frames are?  In addition to my incoming 009's, I'm actually thinking of trying out a lower-end lambda (202, 207 etc) to just to see how they are... sound wise I'm sure they'll be excellent, but my biggest worry is the comfort factor, which I am notoriously picky about.  Basically, I cannot really tolerate anything with hard pads and tight, fixed clamping force for too long... something like the Sennheiser 6x0 series or the Beyers have been really bad for me comfort wise due to their firm pads, harder clamping force and their relative lack of swivel angle.  Even the Koss ESP950's, usually regarded as comfortable to most, I found too uncomfortable due to their total lack of swivel and hard pleather pads, which put too much pressure to sensitive points of my face/jaw.
> 
> ...


 

 They are not as tight clamping as the Sennheiser HD6x0 series but it really depends on how big your head is. I know many members here with bigger than average heads have complained that the new Lambda frame is uncomfortable but to me they are very comfortable and the clamping force is relatively small. I also have tried older Lambda's, the ear pads on those do get sweaty easily but comfort-wise they are close to the newer frames.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> They are not as tight clamping as the Sennheiser HD6x0 series but it really depends on how big your head is. I know many members here with bigger than average heads have complained that the new Lambda frame is uncomfortable but to me they are very comfortable and the clamping force is relatively small. I also have tried older Lambda's, the ear pads on those do get sweaty easily but comfort-wise they are close to the newer frames.


 
   
  Thanks for the response. How about the pads themselves? Would you classify them as being firm like the common velours and pleathers out there, or do they have reasonable amount of give as say, the O2 pads do?  And do the cups swivel more than the HD6x0 series horizontally (this I find important so that the clamping force is not constant)? 
   
  I wouldn't say my head is that big.  I wear 7 1/4" fitted caps and that I believe is pretty common. It's more that I'm really extra sensitive to clamping force.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Thanks for the response. How about the pads themselves? Would you classify them as being firm like the common velours and pleathers out there, or do they have reasonable amount of give as say, the O2 pads do?  And do the cups swivel more than the HD6x0 series horizontally (this I find important so that the clamping force is not constant)?
> 
> I wouldn't say my head is that big.  I wear 7 1/4" fitted caps and that I believe is pretty common. It's more that I'm really extra sensitive to clamping force.


 

 The clamping force is definitely not as bad as the HD650/600 (and I hated the clamping force on them too). I have is pleather pads on my vintage Lambda but real leather on the SR507. The pleather gets very sweaty after a while but they are very firm. The leather pads on the SR507 are also comfortable, with nice firmness. And yes, they can swivel horizontally about 30 degrees in either direction.
   
  If I were you I'd get a vintage Lambda because you can always resell at the price you bought it.


----------



## steve2151

The pleather pads on my SR404 are really soft, but they don't really have much clearance for your ears compared to my other headphones. You get a little less than 1/2" in front of your ears and ~1" behind. These measurements work for me, but may be problematic if your ears stick out a lot. 
   
  I find them really comfy except for the large surface area of the pads, which can cause heat issues if it's warm out.


----------



## Michgelsen

If clamping force is an issue, you'll be fine with the Lambdas. They tend to wobble when I shake my head, so they sit a bit loose on my head. I don't know if I have a small or medium sized head, but it is not very large.
  The pads are quite firm though, when not too old.


----------



## telecaster

I had to order a custom panama because I wear XXL size and weirdly it's a rare hat size... The so called worst lambda clamp wise (507) is light on my head. Sure I feel it but a light clamping but it is surely not strong, like on fresh HD650 (bending the metal on those is at child reach). Btw your 009 will have the same arc as the 507.


----------



## K_19

Thanks for the responses guys. Luckily I have very flat ears so I shouldn't have any problems with ears touching the drivers and such. I tried the 009's before getting them and found those comfortable enough so I suppose clamping wise I'll be good with these style of frames. I'm perhaps a bit worried about the hardness of the pads which actually seems to play more of a factor than the clamp itself for me... ESP950's for example dont have much clamping either but combination of their hard pads and lack of swivel created pressure points on my face and jaw. Same with HD650's even after the steel headband part is bent... Firm pads and minimal swivel... but as long they have enough swivel to relieve that pressure I think I should be fine.


----------



## davidsh

Just want to comment on my sig's. I find them to be lacking slightly with symphonies and larger orchestras and the like. They lack a bit soundstage depth, and they could be a little more dynamic too.
   
  I am actually hearing the Stax fart. Not that there is anything 'farty' about that sound. At all...


----------



## CDPlayer

*Sigh* my honeymoon with the 4070 is over.  Too heavy and not deep enough for my my ears. Off to the "for sale" forum..
   
  Sad panda.


----------



## wink

Wish I could afford these.......


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> *Sigh* my honeymoon with the 4070 is over.  Too heavy and not deep enough for my my ears. Off to the "for sale" forum..
> 
> Sad panda.


 
   
  How big are your ears? Pandas dont have big ears.
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Wish I could afford these.......


 
   
  Just buy them... then I could borrow them


----------



## DefQon

Guess everyone is selling today, selling my HD800's CDPlayer selling his 4070. Be matter of time someone starts selling there kidneys LOL.


----------



## spritzer

One has to retain a certain harmonic balance between buying and selling.  I've reached the point of not knowing where to put all my amps so something has to go...


----------



## DefQon

haha true. If you ever want to sell a spare 404 driver, let me know


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Happy owner of a SR-009 + SRM-727II system, at home since thursday.
  Amazing 

 Ali


----------



## davidsh

Is it normal that i hear a semi loud buzz when I touch the input RCA's of my  T1?


----------



## Michgelsen

Depends on how your system is grounded. In the past, when my system wasn't grounded at all, I remember hearing the buzz when touching the case of my amp. Now I have my system grounded at one point only, via the binding post on the back of my 717. There's no buzz anymore.


----------



## rawrster

Now..if only someone would sell me a KGSSHV 
   
  It's still new in my system as I've had them less than a week but I really like the SR007 with the SRM-323S. It really is quite amazing considering my Stax rig cost the same as my HD800 and I haven't touched my HD800 since.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Depends on how your system is grounded. In the past, when my system wasn't grounded at all, I remember hearing the buzz when touching the case of my amp. Now I have my system grounded at one point only, via the binding post on the back of my 717. There's no buzz anymore.


 
  My system isn't grounded. If I don't have any problems with it, should I then do anything about it? I mean, it shouldn't be directly harmful, except it always is a good idea to have your gear grounded, I guess..
   
  Quote: 





rawrster said:


> Now..if only someone would sell me a KGSSHV
> 
> It's still new in my system as I've had them less than a week but I really like the SR007 with the SRM-323S. It really is quite amazing considering my Stax rig cost the same as my HD800 and I haven't touched my HD800 since.


 
  Kinda feel the same way about my lambda signature and my HE-500 rig. 650$ vs. 1000$. Not that you can compare that way. But expectation bias, new gear syndrome, you know..


----------



## Michgelsen

The reason I grounded my system was because of the buzz. Additionally, when a system is not grounded, you can often feel a bit of electricity when you touch a case. It feels a bit as if it's vibrating a little when you swipe your finger across the case. That will be gone too when you ground it. If none of that is bothering you, then you should be ok without grounding. Your house is probably fitted with a residual-current device, which covers the safety part for the most part already.
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> My system isn't grounded. If I don't have any problems with it, should I then do anything about it? I mean, it shouldn't be directly harmful, except it always is a good idea to have your gear grounded, I guess..


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> Now..if only someone would sell me a KGSSHV
> 
> It's still new in my system as I've had them less than a week but I really like the SR007 with the SRM-323S. It really is quite amazing considering my Stax rig cost the same as my HD800 and I haven't touched my HD800 since.


 
  Your ahead of me by a few miles it seems.  I'm working on my amp first (KGSSHV), then the Stax.  On the way I may pick up a KOSS ESP-950 until I can fund the 009s..


----------



## shipsupt

Do a down payment with PriceJapan and get those 009's on order!  You can pay for them later.  The price has snuck up past $3500 again!


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Do a down payment with PriceJapan and get those 009's on order!  You can pay for them later.  The price has snuck up past $3500 again!


 
   
  Down payment?  I can do that?  Layaway


----------



## shipsupt

You can. I'm not sure how much, but its not a lot. You pay the balance when they are ready to ship, the beauty is that you locked in your price while the yen is in favor.


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> You can. I'm not sure how much, but its not a lot. You pay the balance when they are ready to ship, the beauty is that you locked in your price while the yen is in favor.


 
   
  Just emailed them - this would be right on time.  
   
  Thanks for that tip..


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





preproman said:


> Your ahead of me by a few miles it seems.  I'm working on my amp first (KGSSHV), then the Stax.  On the way I may pick up a KOSS ESP-950 until I can fund the 009s..


 
   
  Who's building your KGSSHV? I'd like to pick one up but they almost never go in the FS. It's harder to find than a unicorn it seems. The SR007 isn't all that expensive so wasn't too hard after I sold off some gear. I like to think of it as getting the SR007 for free since I sort of didn't pay anything.
   
  I probably won't get the SR009 unless I lose the HD800 and I don't see that happening anytime soon.


----------



## Darkbeat

You'd really think someone would have gone into the KGSSHV building business by now, they'd make a killing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   


Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!



cough spritzer cough


----------



## n3rdling

There was somebody that was going to do just that but I haven't seen him post in a while (not hennyo btw).


----------



## DefQon

Spritzer won't build any amp for anyone business purpose wise unless he is offloading one of the many amps he owns.


----------



## Michgelsen

I'm curious what the price would be. Probably around 3000 USD I would guess.


----------



## blubliss

Mine has been in a closet for about 6 months.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Guess everyone is selling today, selling my HD800's CDPlayer selling his 4070. Be matter of time someone starts selling there kidneys LOL.


 
   
  Just noticed the price of the 4070. That's definitely more than they cost brand new, and looking through the archives used 4070s often sell for half that price... wouldnt sell my kidney for that. I dont want to be like the kid who sold his kidney for an ipad and then suffered renal failure, lmao http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-china-17640209


----------



## DefQon

Poor kid. He could've just just taken one from the Foxconn factories. Yeah the 4070 price is quite high. I know a few others that purchased there's around $850-1300 range, so I held off the offer as I'm not interested.


----------



## gilency

blubliss said:


> Mine has been in a closet for about 6 months.



I guess it's because of your 2 T2's


----------



## johnwmclean

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I guess it's because of your 2 T2's


 
   
  Yeah, DIY ultra marathon man.


----------



## gilency

Yes. If I can do it, I bet many of you could too. Just have to be careful with high voltages (that could kill you) and be very OCD about doings everything very meticulously.
  Oh, but is worth it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Nothing beats DIY in audio.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Correct. Not as big as the SR007MKI, but it's there. No biggie IMO.


 
   
  Humm, I think not all SR009 are created equal in that regard. I have an early unit and I can hear the stax fart much louder than my 007mk1. Also, I believe more recent production unit don't make anywhere near as much noise.
   
  I have made some recording using in ear mics:
   
  Warning: this isn't for the faint of heart, esp. the 009... 
   
  SR007L: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50629878/SR007_L.wav
  SR007R: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50629878/SR007_R.wav
  SR009L (gain was drastically reduced so as not to clip the mics): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50629878/SR009_L.wav
   
  SR009R (gain was drastically reduced so as not to clip the mics): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50629878/SR009_R.wav


----------



## n3rdling

Not all stats have the same fart sound...an old Lambda fart sounds nothing like a SR-007 or SR-009 fart, for instance.


----------



## davidsh

My lambda fart does indeed sound different. More metallic and crushed tin can-ish.


----------



## DefQon

Hmm found a place where they still sell SR-4070's. Interesting but a bit too pricey.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Just noticed the price of the 4070. That's definitely more than they cost brand new, and looking through the archives used 4070s often sell for half that price...


 
   
  The guy who sold me these originally paid 2100 euro for them, as he bought them in Europe. Yes, I know they were about $1,600 from pricejapan just a few years ago; but the last one I didn't manage to win on yahoo JP only ~3 months ago went for more than that, and it was in worse condition that mine, also missing its flight case, IIRC.


----------



## 3X0

As a first-time electrostatic owner without a manual, can someone confirm or supplement my researched basic list of do's and don'ts:
   
  DO set the energizer/amplifier to 0 before switching on/off or unplugging/replugging the earspeakers
  DO short out the pins with your fingers to discharge the earspeakers each time you unplug/replug them for prolonged non-use
  DON'T allow the earspeakers to accumulate dust
  DO keep the earspeakers covered in a dust cover or otherwise protected from moisture or dust when in storage or not in use
  DON'T use the earspeakers near any form of moisture*
   
  *I have once noticed problems with my energizer/amplifier's warning light going berserk when I once put the earspeakers on with slightly damp hair (made sure to set to 0 and switch off immediately to avoid stator damage), but I have also noticed this when the only form of moisture present was the condensation of a water bottle over three feet away. I understand not using electrostatics after a shower, but are they really that sensitive to so much as the condensation of a relatively close object?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> DO set the energizer to 0 before switching on/off or unplugging/replugging the earspeakers


 
  I haven't come across any energizers that you can set to 0 nor requiring a switch to turning on or off, at least none of mine have that except I think the SRD-7 need's to be powered externally.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> As a first-time electrostatic owner without a manual, can someone confirm or supplement my researched basic list of do's and don'ts:
> 
> DO short out the pins with your fingers to discharge the earspeakers each time you unplug/replug them for prolonged non-use


 
  My manual says nothing about that.


----------



## davidsh

Out of interest, how hot to the touch is a Stax amp supposed to be/can be before it becomes too hot? Personally I have found an ingenious solution for cooling it, which means it is mostly just nicely warm-ish/ lukewarm.


----------



## satorarepotenet

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Out of interest, how hot to the touch is a Stax amp supposed to be/can be before it becomes too hot? Personally I have found an ingenious solution for cooling it, which means it is mostly just nicely warm-ish/ lukewarm.


 
   
  I keep mine in the refrigerator. It is always very cool. 
   
  PS. Don't try the freezer. You may damage your amp.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





satorarepotenet said:


> I keep mine in the refrigerator. It is always very cool.
> 
> PS. Don't try the freezer. You may damage your amp.


 
  I hope that's a joke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Maybe I should put it inside my computer and have the volume pot and etc. at hard disk bays and get an extra fan. See, that would be cool (pun intended).


----------



## Cante Ista

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Out of interest, how hot to the touch is a Stax amp supposed to be/can be before it becomes too hot? Personally I have found an ingenious solution for cooling it, which means it is mostly just nicely warm-ish/ lukewarm.


 
  whats your ingenious solution? I have the F3 that normally tends to run warm. It is normal for it to do that but if you have some cool trick, please share.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





cante ista said:


> whats your ingenious solution? I have the F3 that normally tends to run warm. It is normal for it to do that but if you have some cool trick, please share.


 
  Nahh, it's just that I have been removing some plating form my pc cabinet, so that the exhaust air from it will go upwards out on the top of the case where my amp is. Thinking about getting a fan or two to have beneath the amp. Before it could run so hot, that it hurt keeping my hand on the amp.


----------



## Michgelsen

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> DO set the energizer/amplifier to 0 before switching on/off or unplugging/replugging the earspeakers *Good habit, but I sometimes plug in the earspeakers with the amp running, not at 0, and nothing bad happens.*
> DO short out the pins with your fingers to discharge the earspeakers each time you unplug/replug them for prolonged non-use *I do this, but I don't think it's necessary.*
> DON'T allow the earspeakers to accumulate dust *Good habit to keep them under a dust cover, but Staxen have good internal dust covers, so you should be fine without an extra plastic back or similar.*
> DO keep the earspeakers covered in a dust cover or otherwise protected from moisture or dust when in storage or not in use *See above.*
> ...


 
   
   
  For a SRM-T1 it is normal that it gets quite hot, especially in the summer. After all, there are tubes inside. I remember that my T1 got so hot that I could barely keep my hand on the case for a while. I think cooling it actively is not really necessary, but can't hurt and may prolong the life of some of the components.
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Nahh, it's just that I have been removing some plating form my pc cabinet, so that the exhaust air from it will go upwards out on the top of the case where my amp is. Thinking about getting a fan or two to have beneath the amp. Before it could run so hot, that it hurt keeping my hand on the amp.


----------



## davidsh

About humidity.. The drivers are hermetically sealed, right?


----------



## kevin gilmore

Nope, definitely not sealed


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





darkbeat said:


> You'd really think someone would have gone into the KGSSHV building business by now, they'd make a killing
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Now what would be fun in that...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I will sell some HV's in the future but that's only because I have to beta test the new PCB's.  For heavens sake don't ask me about them though, that's just a good way to make me angry...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  There is also a pile of HV boards on a desk here somewhere that need to be tested.  Somebody else built these and we bought them to get them off the streets and to see just how the design fairs when somebody with no skill or even brain activity tries to build it.  The results were shocking... 
   
  Even after fixing the PSU's one rail blew up in my face and now I have to build a brand new one.  It's a pretty awesome sight to see 600VDC short to ground in an instant and burn off the traces.


----------



## rgs9200m

I've never done anything special with my 007t amps (or my long ago T1W amp). And they run relatively cool for tube amps. I like that I can sit right next to them and they don't create ambient heat.
  They seem quite robust and don't seem to need any special care over the 14 years I've had them. I've never needed service or needed a new tube even. I've never even opened the cases.


----------



## mechgamer123

Yay, I'm now the proud owner of a Stax 2020 system!


----------



## DefQon

Congratz. There is a 202 starting at 100 yen 7 days left lol.


----------



## spritzer

Cooling amps is a very bad idea.  Most components are designed to run at a given temperature and are setup when they reach that temp.  That means the circuit is most linear when warmed up so placing active cooling defeats the whole point.  These are not computer processors...


----------



## DefQon

I can so imagine a certain poster here (who claimed sound improvements with 2000 hr burn in) doing something such as actively cooling one of the Stax amps and then telling us about the wonderful sound improvements its given. Lol


----------



## 3X0

This isn't a Stax, but you guys are probably the only surviving help I have with regards to one of these since I'm sure it's an analogous part:
   


   
   
  Does anyone know how I can clean this? Bearing in mind I have absolutely no electrical experience and have no idea what I'm looking at here.
   
  I tried lightly blowing on it but there's still some bothersome-looking dust and even a few specks of pleather on the inside surface (second image). Was it even safe to have gone this far?
   
  EDIT: Closed it back up, fired it up and it seems to play fine -- so no damage done. Would still like to clean the grime from it somehow though. Given the sensitivity of the part I understand it might not be possible though.
   
  It still sounds fine to me despite the underlying dirtiness so I'll just leave it alone if it's ill-advised.


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> I wil try and check this stuff out first before I buy and since I need to prepare my life (sell, save, give up something!) for such a big purchase, I will have time to mull everything over. I missed the meet that was here last month, so hopefully one will come up again.
> 
> I might jam out too and go for the non-TOTL option
> 
> ...


 
  Haha. Economic prudence prevailed and in the end that's just what I did. My little cheapo Stax system should arrive later this week!
   
  I will report back.


----------



## spritzer

You could use some packaging tape with very weak adhesive.  Apply it gently and it should remove all the particles and leave the nylon mesh in one piece.


----------



## Michgelsen

Great, do you like it?
  I had a chance to try out the 2050 system friday, and I found it to be a great combo. Definitely a bargain at second hand prices. The SR-202 was a bit better out of my SRM-717 than out of the SRM-252II, but not by so much that such an upgrade would be worth the money IMO.
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Yay, I'm now the proud owner of a Stax 2020 system!


----------



## mechgamer123

Would anyone out there with an SRM-212 be so kind as to take a picture of the back of the amp, specifically the power connector area? Thanks


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> You could use some packaging tape with very weak adhesive.  Apply it gently and it should remove all the particles and leave the nylon mesh in one piece.


 
  Thanks, that should more than take care of the side facing the grill. How about the side facing the ears? I imagine given the lack of a nylon film there this area is a no-go and I'll have to either live with those debris or buy new elements.
   
  I remember reading some complaints about the HE60's dust protection from you earlier -- is this representative of the problem?


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Would anyone out there with an SRM-212 be so kind as to take a picture of the back of the amp, specifically the power connector area? Thanks


 
   
  I found this one, seems pretty simple


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Cooling amps is a very bad idea.  Most components are designed to run at a given temperature and are setup when they reach that temp.  That means the circuit is most linear when warmed up so placing active cooling defeats the whole point.  These are not computer processors...


 
  You are probably right about that. I could try writing to Stax...


----------



## Argybargy

*KGSSHV SUCCESSOR*
   
  Am I wrong in the impression that the DIY electrostatic amp scene is really quiet, with no PCBs currently being produced for designs from the last 5 or so years?
   
  Is there a successor to the KGSSHV on the way?  I assume it would largely remain unchanged with a few subs for obsolete parts and the changes that would entail?
   
  I'm finding that my new O2 MK1 (earliest version) needs a little more juice than the SRM 007T can provide; even though it still sounds awesome


----------



## Chris J

michgelsen said:


> The reason I grounded my system was because of the buzz. Additionally, when a system is not grounded, you can often feel a bit of electricity when you touch a case. It feels a bit as if it's vibrating a little when you swipe your finger across the case. That will be gone too when you ground it. If none of that is bothering you, then you should be ok without grounding. Your house is probably fitted with a residual-current device, which covers the safety part for the most part already.




There is something very wrong with this!
You should NOt get a shock when you touch your audio equipment, or any household equipment!
Is there something wrong with your house wiring?


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Hmm, I need something like this so I can see what the voltage and polarity of the power plug so I can get a US transformer that works:


----------



## kevin gilmore

srm-Xh, srm-212,srm-252 are all exactly the same. 12 volts, 4 watts, outside is plus.
  All are the same connector.
  I own the first two, birgir now owns the 3rd. Do not use an unregulated transformer.
  Switcher inside is not regulated, to high a voltage and parts fly.
  12 volts 1 amp minimum.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Hmm, I need something like this so I can see what the voltage and polarity of the power plug so I can get a US transformer that works:


 
   
  The center pin on that amp is negative. Usually it is positive so buy one that has a negative center pin. Also, you need to know the diameter of that hole and the center pin so you can get the right size.


----------



## Warpkitty

​  ​  ​  I think this part will work OK:
   
  http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/15368.pdf


----------



## wuwhere

That's only rated at 500mA. Kevin said it needs 1A.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Its a switcher and there are significant current spikes.
  I'm pretty sure the power brick says 1 amp.
  Now I need to go find the power brick.
  This is going to take a while.
  No clue where they are at the moment.
   
  Edit: I found the overheated one from the srm-xh its the stax model 1240
  and its 12v 400ma
   
  can't find the brick for the srm-212 yet.
  I will ask birgir what his brick is labeled.
   
  edit: one of these years i'm going to clean up this mess.
  (that would be the entire house)
  (probably easier to buy a new house)


----------



## wuwhere

Though 12vdc, 4w only needs 333mA so 500mA is more than ample.


----------



## DefQon

LOL I've been using a 250ma one for my Xh.
   
  It's regulated though....
   
  Weird says on the packaging 1Amp max.


----------



## deadlylover

I *think* the stock power brick that came with the 2050a was rated 400mA, I've thrown it away now though, so I can't check.
   
  It won't hurt to use a higher rated one, so why not?


----------



## kevin gilmore

4 watts is the actual power dissipation of the pair of headphone amplifiers. I actually measured it at one point
  with exactly 12.0 volts DC going into the unit.  The switcher is about 82% efficient, and is completely open loop
  so if you actually give it 12 volts, then the real power consumption is more like 5 watts. Some of the power bricks
  are regulated, some are not, some sink to 11 or less volts, which lower the power supply output to something
  as low as +/-200 volts. It still works, but does not play as loud, and clips earlier. Also it lowers the bias voltage
  to less than 500 volts. So if you want best performance, you want a regulated power brick that actually
  supplies 12 volts under load.  That jameco brick is not regulated and is unlikely to actually supply 12 volts
  under load.  Going over 12 volts is a bad thing because the electrolytics are only rated at 250 volts, and the
  thing is designed to run right at 250 volts.


----------



## wuwhere

You can get an instrument grade power supply.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> srm-Xh, srm-212,srm-252 are all exactly the same. 12 volts, 4 watts, outside is plus.
> All are the same connector.
> I own the first two, birgir now owns the 3rd. Do not use an unregulated transformer.
> Switcher inside is not regulated, to high a voltage and parts fly.
> 12 volts 1 amp minimum.


 
  Excellent, thank you very much!
  I'll post the transformer before I purchase it to make sure it's alright.
  Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I'm fairly certain that it's the same as all the other audio gear I've dealt with, which is a 2.1mm connector. If someone could verify this, it would be greatly appreciated! 
  Quote: 





warpkitty said:


> ​  ​  ​  I think this part will work OK:
> 
> http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/15368.pdf


 
  Excellent, that's just what I was looking for! Thanks!
  Er rather, Arigatou Gousaimasu!


----------



## mechgamer123

So... Would dis work?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EPS120050-P5N/T1135-P5N-ND/2361006


----------



## DefQon

The tip size is about the same as the adaptors that supply power to your typical modem/router etc. The outer diameter of the tip is 5mm. Inner size is about 2mm.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> The tip size is about the same as the adaptors that supply power to your typical modem/router etc. The outer diameter of the tip is 5mm. Inner size is about 2mm.


 
  So it's a 2.1mm by 5.5mm connector just like all of the other connectors I have? Sweet.


----------



## DefQon

5mm not 5.5mm.


----------



## Michgelsen

It's not really a 'shock', it's a very mild tingling or vibrating feeling.
  Many people report this for example when they touch their PC case when it's not grounded.
  The problem with the house wiring in many old houses is that there is no ground wire, at least here in the Netherlands. See here the common type of socket we have without ground (scroll down): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko
  If equipment is designed to be connected to grounded sockets, this can lead to the slight problem mentioned. I know this 'should not' happen, but it does quite often.
   
  Quote: 





chris j said:


> There is something very wrong with this!
> You should NOt get a shock when you touch your audio equipment, or any household equipment!
> Is there something wrong with your house wiring?


----------



## koplo

I think we should announce to the traditional audiophiles,
 it is time now we all should migrate to computer audiophile systems.
 To replace the spinning-CD transport with terrabyte SSD.
 There's already ExactAudioCopy, RubyRipper, & else, (choose JACK, no ALSA, unisntall PulseAudio),
 and no ErrorCorrectionCode, and using SSD inside laptops (no spinning HDD).
 And in the future, many manufacturers will create more pure digital amplification like NAD M2 (bye-bye tube, bye-bye bipolar),
 and interface like Berkeley Alpha USB,
 so there are no analogs at all, even at the loudspeakers' terminals.
 The sound ?
 Even really challenge the 100,000 vinyl+tube systems, with the cost of under 15,000 !


----------



## Chris J

michgelsen said:


> It's not really a 'shock', it's a very mild tingling or vibrating feeling.
> Many people report this for example when they touch their PC case when it's not grounded.
> The problem with the house wiring in many old houses is that there is no ground wire, at least here in the Netherlands. See here the common type of socket we have without ground (scroll down): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko
> If equipment is designed to be connected to grounded sockets, this can lead to the slight problem mentioned. I know this 'should not' happen, but it does quite often.




That's just a low voltage electrical shock.
Better hope your Stax amp with the 500 Volt bias voltage doesn't fail and create a ground fault.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> Nope, definitely not sealed


 
  Really?  Drivers are not within dust seals?


----------



## kevin gilmore

there are outside dust seals on both sides but not hermetic in any way.
  multiple air holes between the inside chambers and the outside.
  just one look at the diaphrams from a household where people smoke
  will confirm. contaminants get in their fairly easily.


----------



## Michgelsen

I know, but what can you do about it if you rent a place without grounded sockets? The landlord is certainly not having an electrician rewire the house. Best thing I can think of next is ground the system via radiator or water pipes, which I did, after I measured that they indeed seem to be grounded. This is not really how it's supposed to be done, but alas.
   
  Safety is not really a problem because of the residual current device and circuit breakers. I agree it would be best to have grounded sockets everywhere, as is now mandatory in new installations (AFAIK).
   
   
  Quote: 





chris j said:


> That's just a low voltage electrical shock.
> Better hope your Stax amp with the 500 Volt bias voltage doesn't fail and create a ground fault.


----------



## kevin gilmore

The best ground if you don't have the real thing is a cold water pipe.
  everything else including steam pipes may have pipe dope.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> Great, do you like it?
> I had a chance to try out the 2050 system friday, and I found it to be a great combo. Definitely a bargain at second hand prices. The SR-202 was a bit better out of my SRM-717 than out of the SRM-252II, but not by so much that such an upgrade would be worth the money IMO.


 
   
  The 207 does sound ok off the BHSE too...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Thanks, that should more than take care of the side facing the grill. How about the side facing the ears? I imagine given the lack of a nylon film there this area is a no-go and I'll have to either live with those debris or buy new elements.
> 
> I remember reading some complaints about the HE60's dust protection from you earlier -- is this representative of the problem?


 
   
  The problem is more with dust inside the drivers where they will cause real damage.  This is just cosmetic. 
   
  Quote: 





argybargy said:


> *KGSSHV SUCCESSOR*
> 
> Am I wrong in the impression that the DIY electrostatic amp scene is really quiet, with no PCBs currently being produced for designs from the last 5 or so years?
> 
> ...


 
   
  There is no successor planned and I don't see the need for one.  We have altered the design a bit this year but it was simply a response to parts availability not a redesign in any way.  We also shrunk the boards a bit to make it easier to find chassis for the amps and added a servo option to the outputs to deal with the natural drift in the IXYS parts.  Most recently we did a simpler version of the PSU which is more similar to the one used in the old Blue Hawaii unit.  This is purely done as a cheaper option and because it's nice to have something like this around.  There have been some build issues with the power supplies as the ground plane is so close to the parts so this has been fixed too. 
   
  This is all a bit new to us though as normally we just design, do a layout and then move onto something else.  We want to keep the HV alive though so constant rework is needed as the semiconductor companies try their darnedest to shut us down.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   Any other new designs would be something simpler so a new poor mans amp design but who knows when that will be. 
   
  Most of the time is spent now catching up on other projects or coming up with crazier and crazier stuff.  There are also some dynamic amps... 
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> So it's a 2.1mm by 5.5mm connector just like all of the other connectors I have? Sweet.


 
   
  This is the one and many of these supplies have plug on connectors which means you can reverse the polarity without any cutting/soldering. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Really?  Drivers are not within dust seals?


 
   
  If they were truly sealed then we wouldn't have all the humidity based issues such as channel imbalance.


----------



## Chris J

michgelsen said:


> I know, but what can you do about it if you rent a place without grounded sockets? The landlord is certainly not having an electrician rewire the house. Best thing I can think of next is ground the system via radiator or water pipes, which I did, after I measured that they indeed seem to be grounded. This is not really how it's supposed to be done, but alas.
> 
> Safety is not really a problem because of the residual current device and circuit breakers. I agree it would be best to have grounded sockets everywhere, as is now mandatory in new installations (AFAIK).



 
 Circuit breakers are for overcurrent protection. They may not protect you if your case becomes energized with 500 Vdc. Residual current devices do not always work if the system is not grounded properly. I have seen them fail to operate in poorly grounded systems. Cold water pipes are not always grounded, what if part of the water piping system is PVC?


----------



## mechgamer123

defqon said:


> 5mm not 5.5mm.



Oh well, I ordered it anyway...
If it doesn't fit, I'll cut the end off from the Japanese plug and use that...



spritzer said:


> argybargy said:
> 
> 
> > *KGSSHV SUCCESSOR*
> ...



So, quick question: how much would one of those "budget" KGSSHV amps cost for all the parts? I like doing various DIY projects from time to time...

How would I got about reversing the polarity without doing any cutting and re-soldering?


----------



## Warpkitty

By way of some background I picked the Jameco wall wart for you because it was the same spec (power, barrel size,) as what this guy ordered:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/447175/stax-2050a-srm-252-information
   
  Jameco changed their part numbers, but I looked at both data sheets and they were basically the same:
   
  http://datasheet.octopart.com/DDU120050M2260-Jameco-Reliapro-datasheet-13550860.pdf


----------



## Michgelsen

I am aware of that and appreciate your concern (really), but I see no alternative in my case. The equipment is not faulty.
   
  Quote: 





chris j said:


> Circuit breakers are for overcurrent protection.They may not protect you if your case becomes energized with 500 Vdc.Residual current devices do not always work if the system is not grounded properly. I have seen them fail to operate in poorly grounded systems.Cold water pipes are not always grounded, what if part of the water piping system is PVC?


----------



## ultimanium

I recently got some sr-202s, and some of the rear foam is missing.
Is this a problem that I should try to fix?
Perhaps put some cloth over it?

How hard is it to open up, and is it possible to order more inner foam?
I didn't see it on staxusa.



Thanks for any help.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> So, quick question: how much would one of those "budget" KGSSHV amps cost for all the parts? I like doing various DIY projects from time to time...
> 
> How would I got about reversing the polarity without doing any cutting and re-soldering?


 
   
  No way to give an accurate price on something like this, way too many variables but it's north of 500$. 
   
  Either the end can be adjusted or you can use a special adapter to do the change.


----------



## Hun7er

@spritzer : do you build a KGSSHV ?


----------



## DefQon

ultimanium said:


> I recently got some sr-202s, and some of the rear foam is missing.
> Is this a problem that I should try to fix?
> Perhaps put some cloth over it?
> 
> ...




 My SR-202 has the same side of the foam deterioration going on and it doesn't affect the sound. I'd leave it as is or you go via two ways of fixing it.

1. Buy a replacement pair from StaxUSA for around $30.
2. Source a supplier for 10ppi (pores per inch) reticulated foam.


----------



## grokit

My Lambda Pro has that deterioration, the consensus seems to be to leave it alone as it's just cosmetic, you could easily do more harm than good if you mess with it.


----------



## DefQon

My Lambda Pro's don't even have the foam intact no more, I had to completely take it all out because it was dropping bits of sticky aged foam residue everywhere so it's only got the yellow acoustic wool intact for dust protection but I couldn't hear any sound differences when I took it out.


----------



## ultimanium

Alright, thanks for the help.
I was more worried about them getting damaged from dust.


----------



## DefQon

The drivers already have a dust protector glued onto the back end. This doesn't mean that you can just not take care of the earspeakers though.


----------



## ultimanium

defqon said:


> The drivers already have a dust protector glued onto the back end. This doesn't mean that you can just not take care of the earspeakers though.



Ok, so even if a bit of foam is gone, that will protect the drivers? Thanks.
 I do plan on taking care of them, but if I can avoid having to open and mess around with them, I'd like to.
I'm getting one of those dust covers also, for when it's not in use.
Is there anything else I should be doing to care for it?




defqon said:


> 1. Buy a replacement pair from StaxUSA for around $30.



I don't see this in staxusa, is there somewhere else I should look?

Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Michgelsen

The foam is not the same as the dust cover and does not protect against it. The drivers are protected by a thin plastic film on the outside of the drivers to protect against dust. Storing the phones in a plastic bag as additional protection doesn't hurt and may help, so I do that.


----------



## ultimanium

Alright, thanks, I do plan on storing them in a Stax CPC1.


----------



## Chris J

michgelsen said:


> I am aware of that and appreciate your concern (really), but I see no alternative in my case. The equipment is not faulty.




OK,
no problem!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





ultimanium said:


> I don't see this in staxusa, is there somewhere else I should look?
> 
> Thanks for all the help.


 
  You need to email them specifically which they will probably point you to Yamasinc. I recently got into touch with my Stax distributor about the borked left side imbalance with my 404 Sig's. They also mentioned that the Scott filter foam (technically 10ppi reticulated foam) can also be purchased a pair for AUD$30.


----------



## ultimanium

defqon said:


> You need to email them specifically which they will probably point you to Yamasinc. I recently got into touch with my Stax distributor about the borked left side imbalance with my 404 Sig's. They also mentioned that the Scott filter foam (technically 10ppi reticulated foam) can also be purchased a pair for AUD$30.



Thanks. If its not going to hurt them as long as I take care of it, I'll probably just leave it. 
Anything else I should do aside from covering it when not in use?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





ultimanium said:


> Thanks. If its not going to hurt them as long as I take care of it, I'll probably just leave it.
> Anything else I should do aside from covering it when not in use?


 
  Yeah it's not worth replacing the foam unless you're OCD with the condition and/or a collector. 
   
  Besides covering the headphone make sure it isn't in anywhere that is under constant heat (i.e. your computer exhaust fans or such), make sure it also well away from sunlight and humid/dust areas. Generally I store my stuff away in there original boxes or enclosures if not under use.


----------



## ultimanium

defqon said:


> Yeah it's not worth replacing the foam unless you're OCD with the condition and/or a collector.
> 
> Besides covering the headphone make sure it isn't in anywhere that is under constant heat (i.e. your computer exhaust fans or such), make sure it also well away from sunlight and humid/dust areas. Generally I store my stuff away in there original boxes or enclosures if not under use.





I'll put it in the stax storage bag when not in use, and when in use, well, it will be on my head.
Thanks again for all the help.


----------



## telecaster

The old sticky plastic is part of the vintage stuff, live and love with it.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> there are outside dust seals on both sides but not hermetic in any way.
> multiple air holes between the inside chambers and the outside.
> just one look at the diaphrams from a household where people smoke
> will confirm. contaminants get in their fairly easily.


 
  I see.  I suppose there must be a way to equalize air pressure, otherwise the things would burst when shipped by air.


----------



## n3rdling

The one hermetically sealed electrostat I can think of is the old Dayton-Wright.  They filled the transducers with SF6 gas to make use of its' higher breakdown voltage (than air) and increase the efficiency of the panels.  14 kV bias supply


----------



## kevin gilmore

And they leaked anyway. And had to be refilled which was
  a nuisance and smelled up the house.


----------



## arnaud

From seeing the picture of the deteriorated foam in the lambda above, I wouldn't bother replacing it. Acoustically, this kind of foam has virtually no effect (it has such large pores), even in 2-3mm thickness.

My guess is that this was there to act like a filter against large debris, but probably not so much for its damping properties.


----------



## shipsupt

When I checked the back foam on my LNS (that didn't look that bad from the outside) I found that they were on the verge of disintegration and turning to a black dust.  I removed them to keep from creating a mess.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





hun7er said:


> @spritzer : do you build a KGSSHV ?


 
   
  Not for order or anything like that. 
   
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The one hermetically sealed electrostat I can think of is the old Dayton-Wright.  They filled the transducers with SF6 gas to make use of its' higher breakdown voltage (than air) and increase the efficiency of the panels.  14 kV bias supply


 
   
  Those were crazy but I think the new Sound Lab's are at 14kV now with teflon wire stators.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





michgelsen said:


> The foam is not the same as the dust cover and does not protect against it. The drivers are protected by a thin plastic film on the outside of the drivers to protect against dust. Storing the phones in a plastic bag as additional protection doesn't hurt and may help, so I do that.


 
  In my case (LNS) it seems that the foam held the drivers in place. When I exchanged my worn earpads for new leather ones I noticed that the foam had partly disappeared and the drivers moved around quite freely. Actually I can move them by shaking the cans.


----------



## Warpkitty

Two part question:
   
  Can anyone tell me what the output impedance of a Stax amplifier is? Any Stax amp is fine I just want to get an idea. The only thing I've seen that has this spec is the Mal Valve Three which is apparently 600 ohms.
   
  Also, does it make sense to use the same electrical principles of output/input impedance when discussing electrostatic headphones compared to dynamic headphones? Given the 1k Ohm+ load I would think things like electrical damping wouldn't come into play here.
   
  Me all mixed up?


----------



## telecaster

Damping and headphones membrane is snake oil. Insignificant frequency variance is all you get with high amp out impedance.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Damping and headphones membrane is snake oil. Insignificant frequency variance is all you get with high amp out impedance.


 
  You sure? How big do you think the factor should be for it to become an actual issue? And how's the impedance varying with frequency in most electrostats?


----------



## MDR30

A quick question: is it possible to replace the protective membrane of the SR5 driver with cling film or similar?


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> You sure? How big do you think the factor should be for it to become an actual issue? And how's the impedance varying with frequency in most electrostats?


 
  It's my opinion, other will disagree. There is no issue appart from falsy believing the bad and the ugly. From experience it is pure snake oïl to sell you their Wonder amplifier, so sadly typical in audio industry.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> It's my opinion, other will disagree. The factor should be zero. From experience it is pure snake oïl to sell you their Wonder amplifier, so sadly typical in audio industry.


 
  I'm just thinking about what factor is acceptable. For example if you use a inline resistor adapter with a low impedance headphone on something like a speaker amp, you would probably get a very bad found, if say the factor is 10.


----------



## arnaud

As far as I understand:
1. Damping factor for electro-dynamic transducers is very real, its effect measurable.
2. A stat phone is basically a capacitor (115picoF or so for stat models?), the impedance increases with frequency and is mostly reactive (like any cap).
3. There is parasitive inductance, capacitance and resistance in the cable, don't remember which dominates for but it may be capacitance, hence the special attention paid to spacing the lines.
4. Similar to damping factor for an electro-dynamic amp, the output capacitance of the estat amplifier (or lack of to be precise) is important to ensure the amplification isn't load dependent. In this case, I assume the goal is that the amp output capacitance must be much lower than the mainly capacitive load it is driving in order to have load independent transfer characteristics.


----------



## kevin gilmore

impedance DECREASES with increasing frequency
   
  All stax made amplifiers have 5.1k safety resistors in the output lines. So even if the output impedance
  of the amplifier was zero, the output impedance would still be 5.1k. This is to protect the headphones
  from arc damage.
   
  Yes you can replace the outer filters with thin stretched film.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> A quick question: is it possible to replace the protective membrane of the SR5 driver with cling film or similar?


 
  Food wrap bag which is made out of pvc same as the dust film membrane Stax uses which is just a bit more thinner.


----------



## arnaud

kevin gilmore said:


> impedance DECREASES with increasing frequency




Thank you! Obviously I was going to blow this one up, I ought to stay way from E.E field 

So reminder of the capacitor impedance: 1/(j*C*Omega), with C the capacitance value, j the complex notation suggesting this is a reactive load, and omega being 2*Pi*frequency.

Hoping I didn't butcher this one either


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> As far as I understand:
> 1. Damping factor for electro-dynamic transducers is very real, its effect measurable.


 
  All you can measure is the frequency response difference, not the real damping of the membrane.


----------



## jjinh

What... that malware piece of crap costs $6.5k?? So hilarious


----------



## shipsupt

Well, it's like $2k for the dynamic amp, $2k for the electrostatic amp, and $2.5k to put the connections on the back.


----------



## wink

And absolutely nothing for the "FAIL".


----------



## DefQon

Few folks that posted there impressions in this thread while back did say it was pretty good. Or something along those lines.


----------



## Solude

If anything has been consistent over time... no matter how much fail you pack into a box SOMEONE is going to love it.  Just saying


----------



## DefQon

Servicing that amp would be PITA though. Sort of reminds me of the custom milled chassis the high end Ayre preamp's use.


----------



## rawrster

An amp that has both XLR and Stax outputs would definitely be convenient but highly suspect.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Well, it's like $2k for the dynamic amp, $2k for the electrostatic amp, and $2.5k to put the connections on the back.


 
  Let us not forget that the switching (fail) power supply is free!
  Gotta love the concept (not) - all in one (box) - one for all (headphones).
  Custom features include ten - count em, ten tubes under the hood and rear mounted headphone jacks.
  I've always wanted to do a blind reach-around when plugging my cans. Yeah!
   
  I do wonder about the reality - does it sound good? 
  Don't see anything referring to distortion specs.
  Usually if it ain't good, they don't release them for public scrutiny.
  It is all tube by the way - the distortion levels are prolly off the charts.
  For those who love syrupy euphonics, this thing should suit them fine.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I've always wanted to do a blind reach-around when plugging my cans. Yeah!


 
   
  I have no doubt that this is the only reach-around on offer with this amp.


----------



## mechgamer123

Wow, I ordered a new transformer for the SRM-212 (which still hasn't even arrived at the Japanese warehouse to be shipped out to me yet) on Sunday and it just arrived, even though I ordered 2-5 day shipping, the cheapest and slowest shipping option...
What kind of stupid luck is that?


----------



## Chris J

livewire said:


> Let us not forget that the switching (fail) power supply is free!



 
 The switching (fail) power supply?


----------



## livewire

Switched mode power supplies are inherently noisy and are not recommended for high end audio applications.
  Linear power supplies do the job much better, but are more costly, larger, less efficient and run hotter.
  A SM-PSU installed in the same box as the audio amplifier section is just asking for trouble.
  They work fine if installed in their own enclosure (as in a wall wart) and are well filtered & shielded.
  A respectable distance should be maintained away from the amplifier circuitry. (not stacked)


----------



## tyre

The Stax SRM-252 and Koss E/90 have switching power supplies within close proximity to the amplifier circuit. They both work just fine.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





tyre said:


> The Stax SRM-252 and Koss E/90 have switching power supplies within close proximity to the amplifier circuit. They both work just fine.


 
  So why'd you buy your Gilmore Lite with a DPS?


----------



## Warpkitty

So my Stax system arrived a few hours ago. I got it from elusive disc with their 10% sale and it consists of an SR-407 and a demo SRM-252 II. Been listening to some Beethoven violin sonatas and some Vivaldi as well as some music that I've written.

This is very good stuff.


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> So why'd you buy your Gilmore Lite with a DPS?


 
   


 As far as I know, the Elpac WM series wall-wart that originally came with the Gilmore Lite is also linear regulated, but I understand what you're getting at. The audiophile in me would also immediately go for a linear supply over a switching one, if given the choice. My point was that we shouldn't dismiss switching power supplies entirely. If done right, they seem to work fine for audio purposes.


----------



## DefQon

SRM1 MK2 pp vs SRM-323S. I've got both coming my way soon and I need to decide which to offload and which too keep.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The one hermetically sealed electrostat I can think of is the old Dayton-Wright.  They filled the transducers with SF6 gas to make use of its' higher breakdown voltage (than air) and increase the efficiency of the panels.  14 kV bias supply


 
  However, due to the lower speed of sound in SF6, they didn't have very good highs, and so the treble was augmented with a PIEZO tweeter in some models.....  great bass, though.
   
  They had a schrader valve on them so you could top off the gas.
   
  I seem to remember reading somewhere that some arena or stadium in Toronto (or was it Montreal-?)  actually used stacks of D-W electrostatic speakers for their PA / sound reinforcement setup.  Electrostatic speakers for announcements at a hockey game, pretty cool, eh?
   
  A pair of Dayton Wright XG-8 speakers
   

   
   
  D-W  XG-8  http://www.dayton-wright.com/XG-8-Mk3.html


----------



## Chris J

livewire said:


> Switched mode power supplies are inherently noisy and are not recommended for high end audio applications.
> Linear power supplies do the job much better, but are more costly, larger, less efficient and run hotter.
> A SM-PSU installed in the same box as the audio amplifier section is just asking for trouble.
> They work fine if installed in their own enclosure (as in a wall wart) and are well filtered & shielded.
> A respectable distance should be maintained away from the amplifier circuitry. (not stacked)




Switchmode Power Supplies can be used in high end applications (e.g. Linn) but the manufacturer has to do their homework, make sure adequate adequate noise rejection and suppression is designed in.
Wall warts are normally off the shelf designs which were not designed with audio in mind.

In addition, never underestimate the benefits of Power Factor Correction in Switch Mode Power Supplies, i.e. minimizes conducted and radiated noise from one component another.

"A respectable distance" will not prevent conducted noise from travelling down the power lines. Noise is conducted from the input and output conductors of any power supply.


----------



## zolkis

Copying here for the last question about cryogenic treatment process:
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/592797/the-stax-sr-507-appreciation-thread/135#post_9543055
   


> zolkis said:
> 
> 
> > I recently bought a Stax SR-007 Mk1 from macrog, one of the good sounding pieces.
> ...


----------



## gefski

I recently purchased a SRM1 MK2 Pro. I'm thinking of buying a new pair of 307 or 407. Could I get some comments (good or bad) about this combination?

I have SR40 and SR80 electrets driven by tube amps through the Stax adaptors. I'm not really liking them driven by the SRM1, so think real electrostatic cans would be better.

If there are already threads about this, just point me there.

Thanks!


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





gefski said:


> I recently purchased a SRM1 MK2 Pro. I'm thinking of buying a new pair of 307 or 407. Could I get some comments (good or bad) about this combination?
> 
> I have SR40 and SR80 electrets driven by tube amps through the Stax adaptors. I'm not really liking them driven by the SRM1, so think real electrostatic cans would be better.
> 
> ...


 
  I just got my SR-407s yesterday driven by an SRM-252II. I spent a long time comparing the Stax to my HD600s and Woo WA2.
   
  The 407/252 combo is really nice and I would have to say on most material clearly superior to the 600/Woo combo.


----------



## dukeskd

Cryogenic treatment? ...
   
   
   
  ...


----------



## jcx

EU won't allow SF6 in consumer products - most potent greenhouse gas known
   
  but ES headphones would only need 10s of milligrams


----------



## spritzer

We wouldn't really need it though as there are no performance benefits.  We never run into a brickwall in terms of bias voltage.  Even if we up the D/S gap to 0.7mm the bias just goes up to 1100V and there are zero issues. 
   
  Now with a finite baffle and 70's materials there was a problem loading big rooms with high SPL.  Today Sound Lab has this covered and even run very high bias voltages.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Is it easy to find a SRD-7/SB mk2 ? Or modifying a SRD-7/SB to get a pro bias plug on it ?
   
  Ali


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!


 
  Out of curiosity, has anyone had their electrostatics spontaneously fail from a passive issue such as dust collection or moisture?
   
  I asked spritzer about whether the dust and minor pleather debris on the outside of my stator assembly would affect performance and he said that they wouldn't, and my ears tell me the same. Nonetheless I am concerned about the long-term longevity of the transducers. I am considering purchasing a pair of transducers as a backup but I'm against the idea of preventing someone who actually needs a replacement from being able to get one down the line.


ali-pacha said:


> Is it easy to find a SRD-7/SB mk2 ? Or modifying a SRD-7/SB to get a pro bias plug on it ?
> Ali


 

  I've been looking for a Pro-bias variant of the SRD-7 for quite some time without success. It seems the most common versions are with normal bias, which routinely sell for sub-$100. Given its rarity I wouldn't be surprised if a SRD-7 Pro or SB Mk2 sold for 2-3x as much when they show up. I settled for a SRM-T1.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

I've seen this one (with SR-Gamma headphones) : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Stax-SR-Gamma-Pro-SRD-7sb-mk-ll-headphones-/380659823154?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item58a117f232#ht_10743wt_1139
  At the end of the bid, the price will probably raise "to infinity and beyond" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
Ali


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





ali-pacha said:


> I've seen this one (with SR-Gamma headphones) : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Stax-SR-Gamma-Pro-SRD-7sb-mk-ll-headphones-/380659823154?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item58a117f232#ht_10743wt_1139
> At the end of the bid, the price will probably raise "to infinity and beyond"
> 
> 
> ...


 

 After posting it here you might as well expect that!


----------



## 3X0




----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Out of curiosity, has anyone had their electrostatics spontaneously fail from a passive issue such as dust collection or moisture?
> 
> I asked spritzer about whether the dust and minor pleather debris on the outside of my stator assembly would affect performance and he said that they wouldn't, and my ears tell me the same. Nonetheless I am concerned about the long-term longevity of the transducers. I am considering purchasing a pair of transducers as a backup but I'm against the idea of preventing someone who actually needs a replacement from being able to get one down the line.


 
  Not sure if this will ease your worry or not, but, I have had my Lambda normal bias since ?1988? or so, they have been in humid hot conditions (when I was in Houston) for the first ?ten years? or so, and in cold climate (in Northern Illinois and then in Alaska, which was also humid during the summers) and now in Minnesota, very frigid in the winter (-30F ambient) and humid in the summer, they have been sitting out on a shelf covered only with a towel for the last, oh, nine years or so here in Northern Minnesota, and they still work just fine.  Also I am a dude that does not clean the dust off the shelves very often, surprise
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Hope that helps you feel a little better about the "dust" and humidity issues others have been talking about...of course as always, YMMV, IME, and YEMBDTM, etc etc....


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Hope that helps you feel a little better about the "dust" and humidity issues others have been talking about...of course as always, YMMV, IME, and YEMBDTM, etc etc....


 
   
  Or simply, your luck may vary.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> After posting it here you might as well expect that!


 
  The seller should really remove the crumbled down foam bits from the drivers. Thank god I already own both the SBMK2 and one of the later versions of the Gamma Pro's.


----------



## nemomec

I will change/upgrade my current SRM-T1 with the SRM-T1S for my Signature Pro.
   
  Is there any technical difference between these models out of the balanced intput? I have only found in the technical specs that the T1S has a wider frequenz range to 41 kHz vs 20 kHz of the T1.
   
  thanks!


----------



## DefQon

According to some that own both the T1S and T1W is supposedly slightly inferior in sound to the original T1 due "to more components in the signal path", this was exceptionally outlined by golden-ears pkshan when I asked about it and was put off from buying a T1S due to that reason, only because the balanced input appealed more to me.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> According to some that own both the T1S and T1W is supposedly slightly inferior in sound to the original T1 due "to more components in the signal path", this was exceptionally outlined by golden-ears pkshan when I asked about it and was put off from buying a T1S due to that reason, only because the balanced input appealed more to me.


 

 Maybe pkshan can come and chime in on this topic as we'll really appreciate his help on this matter.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Maybe pkshan can come and chime in on this topic as we'll really appreciate his help on this matter.


 
  You might want to look at his post(s) contributed in this thread before asking him for any advice. I'm not joking because either he has golden ears or just full of it.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You might want to look at his post(s) contributed in this thread before asking him for any advice. I'm not joking because either he has golden ears or just full of it.


 

 As far as I am concerned, we need more golden ears.


----------



## DefQon

Indeed we do, I certainly wish I had some golden ears.


----------



## nemomec

No good news for me, i need the second input of the t1s and they looks nicer than my t1 :confused_face(1):


----------



## DefQon

The only T1 amp I ever heard was the T1S, I liked the sound but I'm not sure how well the T1 is. Might want to wait for some others to chime there Mario.


----------



## telecaster

Need more golden ears than golden mouths.


----------



## spritzer

T1 and T1S are pretty much identical.  Relays take care of the source selection so should be as transparent as is possible.  The T1W is a bit problematic as it routs the signal all over the place.  I've had them side by side and heard differences but what caused them is harder to predict.  Tubes weren't identical and neither had been recapped.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> As far as I am concerned, we need more golden ears.


 
   
  We need more science to determine those who actually have golden ears, compared with those who _think_ they do.


----------



## DefQon

Hey I just hit the 2000 hour mark on my Lambda's, I feel that the sound has improved somewhat more and there is more realism to the treble with vocals. I'm guessing a 2000 hour burn in does help with these stats aye?


----------



## cucera

Here in Germany a University used more than 100 Test Person with music and recording background to check weather they can didferentiate high res material vs cd quality and were amazed to find 2 that coud do it with 100 % accuracy and a handful of those whou could tell with >90% propability. Those people exist but are rare. Don't forget the test subjects were all professionals.


----------



## Chris J

telecaster said:


> Need more golden ears than golden mouths.




Oh, oh!
Better stay away from the Science Forum, then!


----------



## Michgelsen

How do you know? Do you have a link to a publication? I'm interested in reading more about this research.
   
  Quote: 





cucera said:


> Here in Germany a University used more than 100 Test Person with music and recording background to check weather they can didferentiate high res material vs cd quality and were amazed to find 2 that coud do it with 100 % accuracy and a handful of those whou could tell with >90% propability. Those people exist but are rare. Don't forget the test subjects were all professionals.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Not sure if this will ease your worry or not, but, I have had my Lambda normal bias since ?1988? or so, they have been in humid hot conditions (when I was in Houston) for the first ?ten years? or so, and in cold climate (in Northern Illinois and then in Alaska, which was also humid during the summers) and now in Minnesota, very frigid in the winter (-30F ambient) and humid in the summer, they have been sitting out on a shelf covered only with a towel for the last, oh, nine years or so here in Northern Minnesota, and they still work just fine.  Also I am a dude that does not clean the dust off the shelves very often, surprise
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks, that does help allay my fears somewhat. I just recently (re-)learned about how electrostatic headphones actually work and can't get over how delicate they seem to be, although I've yet to read reports of failure. I'm a really cautious guy but these headphones are between one and two decades old so I can't help but feel the need to be as careful as possible.
   
   
   
  So the SRM-T1S and SRM-T1 are pretty similar, as is (to my understanding) the SRM-006t. Where does the SRM-007t stand in all of this?


----------



## davidsh

And the 006ts!! What about that one, then?
   
  What would you do if your Stax pads were placed slightly skewed? I mean, I don't dare ripping 'em of just to place them properly (at the bottom of the driver housing there is a little less than a centimeter of gooey glue where the pad should have been, it is placed properly at the top).


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





cucera said:


> Here in Germany a University used more than 100 Test Person with music and recording background to check weather they can didferentiate high res material vs cd quality and were amazed to find 2 that coud do it with 100 % accuracy and a handful of those whou could tell with >90% propability. Those people exist but are rare. Don't forget the test subjects were all professionals.


 
   
  Anecdote powers _activate_!
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Hey I just hit the 2000 hour mark on my Lambda's, I feel that the sound has improved somewhat more and there is more realism to the treble with vocals. I'm guessing a 2000 hour burn in does help with these stats aye?


 
   
  Didn't you say you were leaving?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> So the SRM-T1S and SRM-T1 are pretty similar, as is (to my understanding) the SRM-006t. Where does the SRM-007t stand in all of this?


 
   
  Same design with doubled up output tubes.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Same design with doubled up output tubes.


 

 Is that necessarily better? The 007t is a lot more expensive... And do you know about the 006ts? The information I can find from earlier in the thread suggest that the T1 and SRM-1 is superior or at least as good compared to the different 006/7 models. I'm just thinking that the 006ts is supposed to be an upgrade from the 006t... And 007t should be even better than both.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Just noticed a (very) strange thing : I can hear music when I've an unplugged Stax on my head...and touch my SRD-7/SB 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Is there any electrical isolation issue with my SRD-7 ???
   
  Ali


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





ali-pacha said:


> Just noticed a (very) strange thing : I can hear music when I've an unplugged Stax on my head...and touch my SRD-7/SB
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 If the pins of the Stax plug aren't touching anything it should be impossible.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes, that's just what we need, another objective/subjective ranking system to endlessly debate about that affects all of the other objective/subjective ranking systems that we endlessly debate about...


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





grokit said:


> Yes, that's just what we need, another objective/subjective ranking system to endlessly debate about that affects all of the other objective/subjective ranking systems that we endlessly debate about...


 
   
  In all fairness, I don't actually want that. But it was a 'nicer' thing to say than "we need some people to shut up about how good they think their hearing is".


----------



## miceblue

Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s


----------



## dukeskd

Sorry guys, if you can't hear a difference when the foam is apparent or not then you should _seriously _pick another hobby.. (
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## davidsh

Seems my T1 makes ticking noises when turned off when it is particularly hot. That's normal?


----------



## kevin gilmore

my krell's do that, and its likely the tubes or the transformer, so its more or less normal.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Seems my T1 makes ticking noises when turned off when it is particularly hot. That's normal?


 
   
  My tube amp does that both after just turn on and turn off. I think its the tubes warming and cooling.


----------



## autoteleology

> Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s


 
   
  No, you can't, because there is literally no difference aside from some extra ultrasonic distortion present in both (if anything, the 24/96 and 24/192 should sound theoretically _worse_ than the 16/44). Any sort of understanding of the Nyquist sampling theorem proves this beyond a shadow of a doubt. Any complex waveform can be flawlessly sampled at twice the highest frequency in the source material.


----------



## wink

Here we go again.
   
  Messing the thread with those who can/ think they can and those who can't/know they can't.
   
  Take it to the sound science forum and have at it....
   
  Sound meters and audiologist reports at ten meters.   Turn at the sound at 22KHz @ 24/192 and fire away at will.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> > Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Yup I can hear the differences between 24/192 and 24/96 very easily. I can't believe people say there's no difference between 24/96 and 16/44. They must be deaf or something. /s


 
  You missed the invisible /s there. 
  I can't even tell the difference between V0 LAME and 16/44 FLAC, let alone 16/44 downsampled from 24/96.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Seems my T1 makes ticking noises when turned off when it is particularly hot. That's normal?


 
  Nearly all my tube amp's do this on power up when the cathodes are delivered the currents on heating up phase, almost sounds like crackling noises sometimes. This is normal. But if you start hearing loud crackling noises with lightening strikes going off within the tube, turn the amp off immediately as this is a short.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Nearly all my tube amp's do this on power up when the cathodes are delivered the currents on heating up phase, almost sounds like crackling noises sometimes. This is normal. But if you start hearing loud crackling noises with lightening strikes going off within the tube, turn the amp off immediately as this is a short.


 
   
  Heard crackling noise once while I was warming up my tube amp through my HE-6. With no music playing and my headphone on the table next to me I started hearing a crackling noise from them. So I looked at my Audio Research tube amp and with its cover off, one of the 6550 output tube was imploding inside, blue and red inside. Switch it off, let the tubes cool off, changed the damaged tube, turn it back on, re-bias it, and it worked again. No damage to the amp nor my HE-6.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Heard crackling noise once while I was warming up my tube amp through my HE-6. With no music playing and my headphone on the table next to me I started hearing a crackling noise from them. So I looked at my Audio Research tube amp and with its cover off, one of the 6550 output tube was imploding inside, blue and red inside. Switch it off, let the tubes cool off, changed the damaged tube, turn it back on, re-bias it, and it worked again. No damage to the amp nor my HE-6.


 
  Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp.


 
   
  Did you get a refund? I can't remember if I bought mine used from Agon or ebay. Anyway I emailed the guy as to what happened. I was going to ship back the remaining 3 out of 4. He refunded me all of my money and let me keep the rest of the tubes.


----------



## Michgelsen

I recognize this from when I had my HE60 and HEV70. Check whether it still happens when you ground the case of the SRD-7/SB.
  Quote: 





ali-pacha said:


> Just noticed a (very) strange thing : I can hear music when I've an unplugged Stax on my head...and touch my SRD-7/SB
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  If you don't have an explanation for it, it doesn't automatically mean it's impossible. I agree it sounds unlikely at first. I can't explain it either, but it has happened to me too.
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> If the pins of the Stax plug aren't touching anything it should be impossible.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Did you get a refund? I can't remember if I bought mine used from Agon or ebay. Anyway I emailed the guy as to what happened. I was going to ship back the remaining 3 out of 4. He refunded me all of my money and let me keep the rest of the tubes.


 
  Yep sure did, I even made a post about it here and linked him to it. It was a massive shame the tubes ended up duds, still have them too.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

michgelsen said:


> I recognize this from when I had my HE60 and HEV70. Check whether it still happens when you ground the case of the SRD-7/SB



 
 Thanks. I will try this evening. This phenomenon does not happen at all with my correctly grounded SRM-727II (no "hum). Ali


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Luckily no damage done. Not long ago I purchased a quad set of Gold Lion EL84/6BQ5 tubes from a ebay seller that claimed to be working in his Leben CX300 amp. I received the tubes although in new condition (org box, no scratches or such), but rather poorly packed especially having it shipped from Greece. I plugged them into my integrated amplifier and a good 20-30 seconds, bang, bang, bangggg I shat bricks due to the wonderful display of blue lightening strikes going off within the tubes, I immediately turned off the amp. No damage done to my speakers or amp.


 
  I've had some shorts in the PL519 power pentodes of my EAR 549 monos which burnt some resistors and even part of the PC-board. After that my tech friend retro-fitted fuses in the power supplies. The last time one of them blew I checked the tubes via my bias control when the mono was idle after replacing the fuse and found the weakest of the four, replaced it and rebiased and everything is A-OK again.
   
  Apparently with NOS or old used power tubes it can happen that they short or overheat (German: "Rotbäckchen") when they are used after a long period of storage. Same with old capacitors, one should increase the voltage slowly before using them and then they will work quite well again. But older electrolytics should always be replaced IMO.
   
  But with the fully balanced 4 output tubes of my EARs it can happen that one of the PL519s dies and you won't realize it as the mono just keeps playing. Only at higher listening levels the flaw gets audible.
   
  I had Klimo Linnett 100 W monos before which use six EL34 per channel. Every time one pulls one pair of the power tubes the output is less but they still work with only one pair of EL34.

  BTW I would love to try my LNS with a Stax adapter via the speaker outputs of my EAR monos. 200 W/ch. should be enough for even the Stax diva, the 009. Not that I could afford one ...
   
  Which adapter would be the best for this try-out? Has someone on this forum one for sale at a reasonable price? TIA.


----------



## DefQon

Indeed it is a good practice to reform capacitors using a transformer with a resistor or a variac and slowly "reform" the capacitor to the working rated voltage. But usually this is only a process for higher rated capacitors. A pain in the ass process though.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

I'm also looking for a both normal/pro amp or energizer. The aim is to have one more amp allowing listening from different sources, since my SRM-727II (no laughs, BHSE maniacs !) is plugged in XLR on my main source and has no real input selection. Headphones : SR-5, SR-X mk3 and SR-009 Since SRD-7 mk2 (SB or not) is very rare, SRM-T1 expensive...is the SRM-1 mk2 the definitive choice ? Ali


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> No, you can't, because there is literally no difference aside from some extra ultrasonic distortion present in both (if anything, the 24/96 and 24/192 should sound theoretically _worse_ than the 16/44). Any sort of understanding of the Nyquist sampling theorem proves this beyond a shadow of a doubt. Any complex waveform can be flawlessly sampled at twice the highest frequency in the source material.


 
   
  There is sometimes a difference though but it has nothing to do with the sampling frequency, different mastering being the likely culprit.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is sometimes a difference though but it has nothing to do with the sampling frequency, different mastering being the likely culprit.


 

 Technically, the DAC would have a harder job operating as fast as the bit stream of 192/24bit would require. That could possibly make a difference.


----------



## Michgelsen

The extra distortion caused by ultrasonic information in high-res can also have a slight detrimental effect on the sound quality. You can find some sample files here to demonstrate that: http://xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is sometimes a difference though but it has nothing to do with the sampling frequency, different mastering being the likely culprit.


 

 ^ This. SACD/DSD is often remastered with way more care and attention. Or, maybe they just make it all louder


----------



## spritzer

They certainly make the bass louder.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Not advocating against high res in any way as it is just the natural progression of the Red Book but comparing the two is often comparing apples and bananas.  Same deal as with the advocates of burn in, they never think that they might be mislead by their senses and that it just takes time to get to know any piece of gear....


----------



## davidsh

But on the other hand, it can also be a negative thing if music is mastered in 48 kHz AFAIK.


----------



## Michgelsen

Why, what do you mean?


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> They certainly make the bass louder.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I'm not an "advocate" of burn-in, more of an "agnostic" but I cannot deny the findings of my ears/senses. That said, yes, I acknoledge the fact of getting used to the change - whatever it may cause it -  and love or dislike it. Still I don't have the feeling to be "mislead" by my senses. Anyone's senses cannot be "mislead" whatsoever, they are a natural gift and flawless, even in their restrictions. Gear OTOH is never flawless ...


----------



## autoteleology

> I'm not an "advocate" of burn-in, more of an "agnostic" but I cannot deny the findings of my ears/senses. That said, yes, I acknoledge the fact of getting used to the change - whatever it may cause it -  and love or dislike it. Still I don't have the feeling to be "mislead" by my senses. Anyone's senses cannot be "mislead" whatsoever, they are a natural gift and flawless, even in their restrictions. Gear OTOH is never flawless ...


 



> "My dad was really good at making me think everything through. The scientific method is a totally counterintuitive thing because it begins by saying: *You can't trust your memory or your senses. You have to measure things empirically and write them down because otherwise everything you remember and everything you know is colored by your biases and experiences and hopes and aspirations. And essentially your brain lies to you all the time.* This is a very hard thing to get a 5-year-old to understand." - Cory Doctorow


----------



## Chris J

tus-chan said:


> No, you can't, because there is literally no difference aside from some extra ultrasonic distortion present in both (if anything, the 24/96 and 24/192 should sound theoretically _worse_ than the 16/44). Any sort of understanding of the Nyquist sampling theorem proves this beyond a shadow of a doubt. Any complex waveform can be flawlessly sampled at twice the highest frequency in the source material.




Would you really want to sample music at a 40 kHz sampling rate?
This assumes a perfect DAC process.
OTOH, I do see your point with 196 kHz files for the consumer.


----------



## DefQon

Most stuff is in 16/40-44. Even 24/96 DAC's are overkill which is why I always avoided anything expensive with a Sabre chip.


----------



## wink

You technical heretic..........


----------



## DefQon

LOL!


----------



## telecaster

44Khz/16bits is flawed and don't have enough low noise floor. Do the maths. If Redbook would have been something like 48Khz/20bit, CD would have been the perfect media for music for eternity...


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> 44Khz/16bits is flawed and don't have enough low noise floor. Do the maths. If Redbook would have been something like 48Khz/20bit, CD would have been the perfect media for music for eternity...


 

 You being a bit harsh? When will you actually need a lower noise floor? Sure it wouldn't hurt, though...


----------



## miceblue

Graaah 16-bits' noise floor is too high and I can totally hear it. I will only buy 32-bit tracks from now on because 24-bit is flawed too.


----------



## astrostar59

Wow, what a load of bull shi!@ flying around here...Crap noise floor with 16 bit? Poor sound quality with 16 bit.
   
  Hmmm, like is 120db plus not low enough? I bet the mike leads and amplifier / mixer noise is above that level.
   
  And good Redbook through None Oversampling DACs sounds fabulous.
   
  And as for 24 bit sounding better, yeah, maybe, in a None oversampling DAC playing at dead on 24 bit res. But these modern Delta-Sigma DACs don't do that do they? They upsample, downsample, oversample, generally mess with the sound signature.
   
  For me, R-2R DAC chips at None Oversampling are the only sound I can live with, the rest sounds lifeless and synthetic. But it sounds good in the spec sheets, and punters buy it, so why bot?


----------



## 3X0

So I got my SRM-T1 today and it's HUGE! I honestly had no idea what I was getting into.
   
  I heard the HEV70 sounds like a portable amp compared to other electrostatic amps, but I had no idea it looked like one compared to them too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Even the cord was a beast in of itself!


----------



## arnaud

Since we're specializing in the fracturing of open doors, I will add my minus 2 cts to the conversation.

16 bit is absolutely fine as far as discretizing real world signals since you're lucky when you get more than 40dB of actual dynamic range. Probably the one exception is full orchestra playing some prokofiev and other extreme dynamic range recordings.

The benefits of higher bit depths come into play during processing (be it at the mastering stage or even at the playback stage with reconstruction filters and such).

For image processing, you're actually retouching the images yourself so it makes sense to have it done at bit depths that exceed the output dynamic range (like a computer screen).

For audio playback with pretty much only reconstruction filters involved, 24/32/35 bit processing sounds a bit overrated imo.


----------



## autoteleology

> Since we're specializing in the fracturing of open doors, I will add my minus 2 cts to the conversation.


 
   
  This. Why is 96dB of dynamic range not good enough? You will never use anything close to that in actual music, even in the most dynamic classical recording. The only actual helpful use for 24 and 32-bit is during the production stage, and ultra-high sampling rates are scientifically proven to theoretically sound worse than the standard 44.1kHz.
   
  There is literally no justification to use consumer "HD" tracks over the standard fare in terms of technical ability. I'm aware that special "audiophile" formats often get special mastering, so there's that (even in places where it makes zero sense, like vinyl, where you DON'T want a quiet master because of surface noise, but whatever), but other than that, I just don't get it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> 44Khz/16bits is flawed and don't have enough low noise floor. Do the maths. If Redbook would have been something like 48Khz/20bit, CD would have been the perfect media for music for eternity...


 
  For you and all those that want a bit of further "education" on the 16bit vs 24bit and whatnot myths.
   
  This thread is a great read.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/415361/24bit-vs-16bit-the-myth-exploded
   
  Most well mastered sources are 16bit (standard for CD) this makes up a very large percentage 90% + with the exception of SACD, DVD and Redbook. 24Bit is overkill sometimes but provides plenty of overhead, anything else more is just marketing bs imo. It's like magically using a 32bit/384 conversion you can out of no where pull extra bits out of a 16bit/24bit recording when it was never there in the first place.


----------



## telecaster

For ur education red book is CDs... 96Db noise to signal ratio is not enough. 120db would have been. A n orchestra fortissimo is 120db...
I meant perfect media forever.
For the consumer for God sakes, mastering is another story.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> For ur education red book is CDs... 96Db noise to signal ratio is not enough. 120db would have been. A n orchestra fortissimo is 120db...
> I meant perfect media forever.
> For the consumer for God sakes, mastering is another story.


 
  And what else about it? Does it change the fact that most things are based on that 16bit/40-44khz recording format with a small handful being 24bit? This is what I was originally talking about?


----------



## miceblue

http://xiph.org/video/vid2.shtml
   
  Don't fall for HD marketing....
   
  24/192 my @$$

   
  Yup, most of the important stuff is below 20 kHz more or less.....24/96 not needed

   
   
  Anywho, back on topic, is there any place where I can buy a new SRS-2170 for under $850 USD? I'm not too keen about buying used stuff.


----------



## milosz

While we're taking an excursion away from Stax specifics into music format arguments, I'll toss another spanner into the works...
   
  There's a general feeling among many that vinyl sounds better than CD.  
   
  You're lucky to have 35 to 40 dB S/N ratio on a vinyl surface on all but the most exquisite audiophile pressings. There's a lot of harmonic and IM distortion inherent in the cutting / playback process - certainly upwards of 1%. 
   
  I think many are so used to these "analog artifacts" that hearing a CD without these vinyl-specific characteristics sounds "wrong" to them.


----------



## Michgelsen

Yes, pricejapan.com.
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Anywho, back on topic, is there any place where I can buy a new SRS-2170 for under $850 USD? I'm not too keen about buying used stuff.


----------



## DefQon

@Miceblue: PM'd you about the 2170.


----------



## autoteleology

> While we're taking an excursion away from Stax specifics into music format arguments, I'll toss another spanner into the works...
> 
> There's a general feeling among many that vinyl sounds better than CD.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I have a theory about this, and I believe it's the fact that vinyl sounds more "live" in a sense that it adds its own flavor to the music every time it's listened to, like how a live performance always sounds slightly different every time. I agree that for some people, not hearing these distortions might make the music sound a bit odd, somewhat similar to how tubes make music sound more soft (not warm or bright, soft, as in smooth) at the expense of absolute accuracy. Then again, a lot of the time, it's just the romanticism of using analog technology because it really is a whole lot more intimate than loading up a file in Foobar and having the music decoded inside a box.


----------



## davidsh

Why does said words in your profile make you cringe?
   
  I kind of agree with you about vinyl, but on the other hand a live performance should sound very live on an accurate digital system if the performance is recorded the right way and such..


----------



## jeffreyfranz

3X0: Did you get the black one that's shown in the For Sale here, in Europe?
  Thanks,
  Jeffrey
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> So I got my SRM-T1 today and it's HUGE! I honestly had no idea what I was getting into.
> 
> I heard the HEV70 sounds like a portable amp compared to other electrostatic amps, but I had no idea it looked like one compared to them too.
> 
> ...


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> So I got my SRM-T1 today and it's HUGE! I honestly had no idea what I was getting into.
> 
> I heard the HEV70 sounds like a portable amp compared to other electrostatic amps, but I had no idea it looked like one compared to them too.
> 
> ...


 

 Guess I was as surprised as you. I thought my MF x-can was an average size headamp, so I figured the Stax probably was a little bigger... Can't really have it on my desk


----------



## anetode

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> For ur education red book is CDs... 96Db noise to signal ratio is not enough. 120db would have been. A n orchestra fortissimo is 120db...
> I meant perfect media forever.
> For the consumer for God sakes, mastering is another story.


 
   
  You might be confusing sound to noise ratio with dynamic range. 16 bits allow for a 98 db dynamic range but the sound to noise ratio for a DAC may be higher than that even when that DAC is only dealing with redbook. Also the 120db peak doesn't necessarily matter as the lowest level will be quite above 0 db. Even good orchestra recordings still fit well within the 16 bit range.
   
  I too would like to see a link to the German study. Without looking over the stats for the study it's impossible to say whether those 2% weren't just lucky guesses.
   
  Oh wait this is the Stax thread. Um ok, say you really want to listen to something at 120db, then the 007 MK1s would fit the bill perfectly. Got a chance to try out the LL2 a few weeks back and was quite pleasantly surprised at the amount of life it pumped into the 007s.


----------



## jcx

actually you are 5 dB short of 120 dB with LL2 and 100 dB/100 Vrms Stax by the numbers
   
  it is rare to do better than NC20 in a home listening room and headphones have a higher noise floor than speakers even in an anechoic chamber after minutes of accommodation - nothing you are getting close to when listening to music at even "polite" levels
   
  perceptual noise shaped dither is common today so even RedBook can deliver >110 dB A-weighted S/N - plenty to max out the ES headphone/amp SPL and still have source noise be below any common listening case actual noise floor/human perceptual limit


----------



## autoteleology

> Why does said words in your profile make you cringe?


 
   
  Because they're all words that are either totally meaningless and non-descriptive (poor writing/reviewing skills), used to add weasel weight to an opinion, or some combination thereof.

 Let's take the word "musical" here. (definition provided by Merriam-Webster)
  

   
  This word is completely useless to meaningfully communicate anything related to audio because it has no objective definition in terms of a sound signature. It describes nothing. One person's musical is usually another person's harsh, bright, wooly, bassy, honky, muddy, et cetera. When a reviewer describes something as "musical", it basically just means they liked the sound signature provided... it doesn't communicate anything about what the sound signature _actually is_. It's just a really weaselly word and I see it used way too often to describe gear as if it was some kind of objective, measurable attribute.
   
  For the last two words, it might seem kind of odd I included them in my list, but they annoy me because they're just lazy. The sentence "the bass is good" does not tell me anything about the bass, other than the fact that said reviewer apparently liked it. The sentence "the bass had strong mid-bass punch and a lot of rumble in the sub-bass, but was a bit boomy in the bass harmonics and low mids" tells me quite a bit. Which sentence would you prefer to read if you're trying to figure out if you're going to spend hundreds of dollars on a piece of gear?
   
  The entire point of a review is to communicate meaningful, universal attributes about a product so that other people can decide if they want to own it as well, not to rant, rave, or inflate someone's e-peen


----------



## wink

Beats bass are goood.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> > Why does said words in your profile make you cringe?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ha, speaking of words that make people cringe, "sing" annoys the heck out of me.
   
  The LCD-2's really sing when paired with an amp of "proper" power. aslukfdhlaksjdfhlwkej *cringe*


----------



## autoteleology

> The LCD-2's really sing when paired with an amp of "proper" power. aslukfdhlaksjdfhlwkej *cringe*


 
   
  I agree with you so much that I think I'll add that to my list of shame.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I agree with you so much that I think I'll add that to my list of shame.


 
  Well the many times that I have mentioned about how musical my Gamma Pro's are, I always relate it to the pleasing sounding aspects of it, like it's no speed demon of my Omega, it's no detail king like my HD800, it's no perfect headphone but heck it reproduces music in it's own unique sounding way that is just pleasing to my ears personally.
   
  If it's one audiophile head-fi term I hate and see no sense behind it, it is PRaT. Like who da fk invented such a useless acronym?


----------



## grokit

The PRaT of a given headphone is in direct proportion to its musicality


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





jcx said:


> actually you are 5 dB short of 120 dB with LL2 and 100 dB/100 Vrms Stax by the numbers
> 
> it is rare to do better than NC20 in a home listening room and headphones have a higher noise floor than speakers even in an anechoic chamber after minutes of accommodation - nothing you are getting close to when listening to music at even "polite" levels
> 
> perceptual noise shaped dither is common today so even RedBook can deliver >110 dB A-weighted S/N - plenty to max out the ES headphone/amp SPL and still have source noise be below any common listening case actual noise floor/human perceptual limit


 
  I might have Fallen for the numbers war in commercial publication about 20bits being better than the acceptable 16bits.
  I only listen to redbooks as most of if not all of my Library is not avail on High rez. I have no complaints about the 16 bits limit, and frankly I remember the days of tape and vinyl, and I still am amazed when people are debating sound improvements in DACs above 300$ when you have already low noise floor.


----------



## wink

PRaT = Pace, Rhythm and Timing.    Whatever that means............


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





wink said:


> Whatever that means............


 
  Mumbo jumbo.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





> *??*
> 
> 
> The LCD-2's really sing when paired with an amp of "proper" power. aslukfdhlaksjdfhlwkej *cringe*


 
   
  I have an Audio-GD NFB-10ES , feeding SPDIF  to it and running the LCD-2's  on it (balanced or unbalanced, either way)  is my favorite way to use the LCD-2's.  The NFB-10ES  has plenty of power  (over 20 volts RMS  from the balanced output) and the slightly bright character of the NFB-10ES goes nicely with the slightly un-bright LCD-2s.  This lets me enjoy the bass texture from the LCD-2's that I like so well and also hear some highs.  But I have to say I am spoiled by my electrostatic 'phones (Stax and Koss)  - after listening for a while to the LCD-2's  I wanted to go back to Stax or Koss.  The LCD-2's sound veiled, even on the NFB-10ES.  I like their bass *BUT*....
   
  By the way, I listened to the NFB-10ES DAC output using another amp, and that didn't sound bright.  I think it may be the amp section of the NFB-10ES that is a bit bright, not the Sabre DAC. More testing and a full report to follow, some day....


----------



## DefQon

KG/Spritzer will we ever see a thyratron tube based Stax amp? It looks purty when it glows up with the blue plasma.


----------



## duncan1

Due to its design Thyratrons either pass no plate current or unlimited plate current there are no graduations between that.Each electrode structure has a particular value of negative grid voltage that will cut off the plate current completely. When the grid current is reduced below the critical figure -plate current flows.. When plate current flows the grid loses all control over it and can only be stopped by braking the circuit.They do look nice though.


----------



## shipsupt

You can use them as rectifiers. 
   
  Frank Cooter has used mercury vapor tubes in his builds.  High cool factor.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> You can use them as rectifiers.
> 
> Frank Cooter has used mercury vapor tubes in his builds.  High cool factor.


 
  Yeah pretty crazy voltages too at around 800-1200v.


----------



## spritzer

As I mentioned it a while back, here is a super small Stax tube amp.  
   

   
  Design isn't finalized yet but this thing will not swing a whole lot of voltage (500+Vp-p) or be very powerful but it is cheap and cool.  The small PCB in the back is the HV supply which is driven off 12VDC which also powers the heaters.  It's a switcher but it was very cheap.  Fully balanced from input to output but not really portable as it needs 12W just to light up the tubes. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> KG/Spritzer will we ever see a thyratron tube based Stax amp? It looks purty when it glows up with the blue plasma.


 
   
  Would never work unless you want to stick a Stax logo on some high power DC lines?  300B's will glow blue sometimes and some other DHT's too.  There will be a 300B based Stax amp or two...


----------



## Nemeske88

These tiny-little tubes are those that are used by Alo and Go-vibe on their portable amps (Continental and PortaTube)?


----------



## telecaster

To SRS-002 owner, what is the size of the power adapter tip?


----------



## gilency

Google it?
https://www.staxusa.com/system/stax-srs-002.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector


----------



## mudihan

I posted the following elsewhere, but someone suggested that I should post it here. Sorry for the double posting. I would really appreciate all the help I can get, whether it's about fixing the driver or getting a new one. I love my Lambdas, but am not capable of buying a completely new set.
   
   
I have a pair of 6-pin Stax SR-Lambda that's driven by an amp + SRD-6. The left side, however, has minimum bass. There is little channel imbalance or any observable distortion on the left side, just a lack of bass. I have switched speaker cables, reversed channels in my computer, even resoldered all the joints on the phones, but still could not solve the problem. I understand that old Stax drivers may develop a channel imbalance, but mine are fine balance(volume)-wise.  Any insights as to how I may solve the problem?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





nemeske88 said:


> These tiny-little tubes are those that are used by Alo and Go-vibe on their portable amps (Continental and PortaTube)?


 
   
  No, they use low voltage tubes... these are the highest voltage ones I could find.  Highest power too...


----------



## DefQon

It wouldn't be wise for a portable tube amp to use high powered mini tubes when the thing runs off batteries. lol
   
  A 300B Stax amp sounds interesting. I'm all for the pretty tube glow and of cause - good sound.


----------



## palchiu

Anyone know what's the SR009X???


----------



## arnaud

palchiu said:


> Anyone know what's the SR009X???




A spelling typo by someone who easily confuses SR009X and SR900X for example?


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Google it?
> https://www.staxusa.com/system/stax-srs-002.html
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector


 
  Thanks a bunch.


----------



## gilency

You are welcome


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> A spelling typo by someone who easily confuses SR009X and SR900X for example?


 
  I'm confused now.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





			
				DefQon said:
			
		

> I'm confused now.


 
   
  About what? I dont think it's a new model as the screenshot appears to be of a story from 2011


----------



## palchiu

http://www.stax.com.cn/stax2/news_index.htm
   
  not sure what's that model.


----------



## M-13

So did a little research on this massive thread about the 2170 system (as this is the only thing I can afford right now and that's from Price Japan) and had a few questions.
   
  So it's the most neutral/balanced of the current Lambdas? Is there any reason for me to stretch my budget and get the 407?
   
  Also... I heard in passing that the 252S can be easily modified to work in the US without using a step-down transformer? Something about a plug trick? Can anyone fill me in on the details (please remember I'm a total moron who needs step-by-step explanation/instructions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> So did a little research on this massive thread about the 2170 system (as this is the only thing I can afford right now and that's from Price Japan) and had a few questions.
> 
> So it's the most neutral/balanced of the current Lambdas? Is there any reason for me to stretch my budget and get the 407?
> 
> ...


 
  Can't help comment that my Stax system is the perfect compliment to the HE-500 (as different as they can possiblyt be). Can't blame you if you want new stuff, though, but know that the newer Stax isn't necessarily superior to the older stuff..


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Can't help comment that my Stax system is the perfect compliment to the HE-500 (as different as they can possiblyt be). Can't blame you if you want new stuff, though, but know that the newer Stax isn't necessarily superior to the older stuff..


 
  So the real question for you is why are you keeping your HE-500 despite having a Stax system? Can you describe a little more about why they're complimentary?
   
  I do know that the newer stuff isn't necessarily better in the Stax Lambda world (been doing some reading), but I would rather buy new if I can, unless the cost is ridiculous high or the current line up is just terrible and unlistenable compared to the older Lambdas.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> So did a little research on this massive thread about the 2170 system (as this is the only thing I can afford right now and that's from Price Japan) and had a few questions.
> 
> So it's the most neutral/balanced of the current Lambdas? Is there any reason for me to stretch my budget and get the 407?
> 
> ...


 
   
  Just buy a new wall-wart for it. There was a recent discussion on this, e.g. around here


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Just buy a new wall-wart for it. There was a recent discussion on this, e.g. around here


 
  Is there a specific one that you can recommend? Or and example of one that would work for sure? (in the USA I mean)


----------



## Warpkitty

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Is there a specific one that you can recommend? Or and example of one that would work for sure? (in the USA I mean)


 
  Here we go:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/23010#post_9532138
   
  I just received the 252II and the Stax "certified" wall wart was rated at 400ma so this one should be fine. I'm also using the little amp to drive the SR-407s and it's very nice indeed.


----------



## autoteleology

> I just received the 252II and the Stax "certified" wall wart was rated at 400ma so this one should be fine. I'm also using the little amp to drive the SR-407s and it's very nice indeed.


 
   
  Just to clarify, aren't the Japanese wall warts opposite polarity from the U.S.? I noticed I had to put the tip of my wall wart on backwards in order for my SRD-X Pro to work.


----------



## Warpkitty

tus-chan said:


> Just to clarify, aren't the Japanese wall warts opposite polarity from the U.S.? I noticed I had to put the tip of my wall wart on backwards in order for my SRD-X Pro to work.



Yes. The Jameco one has the correct (negative) polarity.


----------



## DefQon

What do you mean backwards?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> What do you mean backwards?


 
   
  Need negative polarity, not the one that's probably more common around here.


----------



## telecaster

The 252 amp has background noise at moderately high volume. If you can, buy a used desktop amp for you 207 if budget really can't get you there. But I too dislike used headphones, I had too much deceivings with people unloading their damages headphones that I always buy them new..
  The 3170 system is the ticket, because 307 isn't that much more expensive than the 207. But if you want to stretch a little, the 4170 is what you want and be done with.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> The 252 amp has background noise at moderately high volume.


 
   
  Never noticed it on mine. Just plugged it in to test this and I hear no discernible background noise...
   
  I think it's an alright amp for the lambda series.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Never noticed it on mine. Just plugged it in to test this and I hear no discernible background noise...
> 
> I think it's an alright amp for the lambda series.


 
  Same here, none of my Stax amp's/energizers or ones that was loaned to me ever had a background noise regardless of volume except the Xh and the 252 where it clips on higher volumes due to lack of proper power.


----------



## Chris J

defqon said:


> And what else about it? Does it change the fact that most things are based on that 16bit/40-44khz recording format with a small handful being 24bit? This is what I was originally talking about?




Most digital recordings are 96 kHz, 24 bit.


----------



## DefQon

chris j said:


> Most digital recordings are 96 kHz, 24 bit.




 Got a source to back that up?


----------



## 3X0

defqon said:


> Got a source to back that up?


I was going to ask the same. I'm not as suspicious but these sort of claims absolutely need citations.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Never noticed it on mine. Just plugged it in to test this and I hear no discernible background noise...
> 
> I think it's an alright amp for the lambda series.


 
  There is a stax user over here with the 2170 that he likes very much. Then he bought a vintage SRM1mkII amp and notice the vintage one has no background noise, while the 252 has it when playing music at higher levels with his 207.


----------



## DefQon

telecaster said:


> There is a stax user over here with the 2170 that he likes very much. Then he bought a vintage SRM1mkII amp and notice the vintage one has no background noise, while the 252 has it when playing music at higher levels with his 207.




 Sounds like his got it at a very high volume where clipping is also happening. But hey what do I know? I'm just a delusional fool.


----------



## telecaster

with low level source you can get noise and moderate volume with 252 dont delusion yourself


----------



## nemomec

I have a Lambda Signature and a Lambda Nova Signature both driven by Stax SRM-T1S. I´m using the LNS for Pop/Rock music and the LS for classic and instrumental music. I love the sound and clarity of the LS with classic music, but I need a upgrade for the LNS with a little more bass and clarity. I think the Omega SR 007 is a good choice, but there are two versions MK1 and MK2. Which version is better for this genre and is this upgrade a step forward? I will also buy a new amp for the Omega, my choice are SRM-323S.
   
  Thanks


----------



## jaycalgary

Something new and expensive. http://news.cnet.com/8301-13645_3-57591530-47/abyss-ab-1266-headphones-run-$5495-but-theyre-worth-it/?part=rss&subj=news&tag=titl


----------



## autoteleology

defqon said:


> What do you mean backwards?


 
   
  The wall wart I got from Rat Shack has a tip that can be placed in positive or negative polarity. All you have to do is pull it off and reverse it.


----------



## autoteleology

> Something new and expensive.


 
   
  These look really rough for a finished product, but apparently they significantly edge out the SR-009 in SQ? Color me interested.


----------



## 3X0

tus-chan said:


> These look really rough for a finished product, but apparently they significantly edge out the SR-009 in SQ? Color me interested.



There's a thread in the HE forum about the Abyss, but it's populated by a fair amount of unfounded speculation and specious comparative impressions. Definitely something you have to hear before drawing conclusions.

There's no telling what kind of garbage SG was using with the SR009 as well...


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Got a source to back that up?


 
   
  Really?  Go find an ADC limited to 16/44 in 2013.  If you think studios are recording in 16/44 I don't know what to tell you.  But ponder this... if the recording is 16/44... how do they release 24/192 HD tracks?  Recording isn't limited to the final media spec.


----------



## M-13

The commets after the Abyss review is hillarious.


----------



## spritzer

The guy thinks RWA makes useable amps so was anybody surprised these were "brilliant" as well?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





solude said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  There's something called upsampling ya know? It's why I don't buy HD tracks anymore since I have no clue about the tracks' origins. For all I know companies could be selling 16/44 upconverted to 32/384 and people will say "HD sounds awesome yup."


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> There's something called upsampling ya know? It's why I don't buy HD tracks anymore since I have no clue about the tracks' origins. For all I know companies could be selling 16/44 upconverted to 32/384 and people will say "HD sounds awesome yup."


 
   
  You can tell fairly obviously when a track is upsampled by looking at the spectral data of the track.
  

   
  Any real "HD" track will have frequencies well above 22.05kHz, which is about the max that 44.1kHz sampling rate will allow due to the Nyquist sampling theorem.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  True true, I was only talking about purchasing HD tracks without knowing their origins.
   
  32/384 certainly can exist but I don't know of any sources that sell it; let DACs being able to play it.
   
  Back on the topic of Stax, is there some sort of warranty that comes with a new system? Stax USA has a warranty form that you can fill out for repairs, but there is no mention of a warranty whatsoever anywhere else from what I glanced through the website.


----------



## vinyllp33

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> There's something called upsampling ya know? It's why I don't buy HD tracks anymore since I have no clue about the tracks' origins. For all I know companies could be selling 16/44 upconverted to 32/384 and people will say "HD sounds awesome yup."


 
   
  Yes, same reason I have gotten away from HD Tracks, it would be a no brainer if they provided the pedigree and/or origin of their files.
   
  Some titles I purchased were/are obviously true "High-Res" however many I have speciality red-book (i.e. XRCD, Japan SHM) counterparts that sound noticeably better than their supposed "24/96".
   
  I think there is a good reason that they do not provide the sprectral data, just sayin...


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> The commets after the Abyss review is hillarious.


 
  Really couldn't stand reading more than 5-7 of the comments. I still continue cringing inside... Well, better catch up:


m-13 said:


> So the real question for you is why are you keeping your HE-500 despite having a Stax system? Can you describe a little more about why they're complimentary?
> 
> I do know that the newer stuff isn't necessarily better in the Stax Lambda world (been doing some reading), but I would rather buy new if I can, unless the cost is ridiculous high or the current line up is just terrible and unlistenable compared to the older Lambdas.


 
  The time to pass judgement is still very premature for me. I kinda see it like        Stax -> Musical beauty         HE-500 -> Musicality.
   
  The LS seems forward (still neutral) sounding while HE-500 is relaxed and withdrawn. HE-500 has lots of bass presence, LS has tactile and airy bass. LS can be etchy, HE-500 always smooth. Intimate soundstage goes to the 500, more airy soundstage with the LS and in general better defined imaging(!). 
   
  HE-500 is kinda chill to listen to, LS draws my attention and can be a 'hard' listen in comparison. The HE-500 is okay with mediocre recordings, LS can be plainly annoying, especially if there is too much upper mid or treble presence. LS excels with good recordings though, and it can be a very beautiful experience. The clarity is amazemerising. 
  They just present music very very differently, and does not have much in common.


----------



## davidsh

Can I rip the pads off and place them better on the frame without getting into trouble?


----------



## DefQon

solude said:


> Really?  Go find an ADC limited to 16/44 in 2013.  If you think studios are recording in 16/44 I don't know what to tell you.  But ponder this... if the recording is 16/44... how do they release 24/192 HD tracks?  Recording isn't limited to the final media spec.




 That still doesn't answer my original question. A very large percentage of media is still based on that 16 bit recording standard. 24bit does exist but it is minority compared to the former. This has been covered already in that thread I linked few pages back.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> A very large percentage of media is still based on that 16 bit recording standard.


 
  This is true, nearly all of my experiences in the studio post-production has been working with 16bit, and that is the final copy you supply a label.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> That still doesn't answer my original question. A very large percentage of media is still based on that 16 bit recording standard. 24bit does exist but it is minority compared to the former. This has been covered already in that thread I linked few pages back.


 
  I guess solude meant that most music is mastered in 96/192 kbit/s and 24 bit, which is probably true. I'm positive he was talking about the studio master.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I guess solude meant that most music is mastered in 96/192 kbit/s and 24 bit, which is probably true. I'm positive he was talking about the studio master.


 

 While mastering I go all the way to 32bit.


----------



## miceblue

Isn't the point of having a higher bit depth to allow more wiggle room for the mastering engineer to do their thing?
   
  I see no reason why a non-mastering engineer would want more than 16 bits for just listening to music.


----------



## telecaster

even fifteen years ago any decent studio got 24bit 96khz encoders, I guess today they go even higher.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I see no reason why a non-mastering engineer would want more than 16 bits for just listening to music.


 
   
  The entire conversation is about mastering and not playback though so...


----------



## autoteleology

I thought the entire point of using higher than 16 bit in the studio was for recording, in order to accommodate a wider variety of signal levels to avoid clipping and such. Just more flexibility so less time is taken tweaking equipment and more time is spent producing (I can personally identify with this). There are also probably reasons for it after mixing so that when all of the instruments and parts are mixed together, the files can be dithered down to reduce noise further.

 Am I correct with my conjecturing?


----------



## Solude

Yes.


----------



## bearFNF

Is this the Stax thread or the sound science thread?...I must have walked into the wrong room...sorry for the disturbance...just sayin'


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Is this the Stax thread or the sound science thread?...I must have walked into the wrong room...sorry for the disturbance...just sayin'


 
  This is the Stax thread....with discussion about what kind of music sounds good with them.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Can I rip the pads off and place them better on the frame without getting into trouble?


 
  You can carefully remove the pads, I suggest not to rip them off...but to peal them carefully and slowly off.
  You will more than likely need new double sided adhesive to put them back on after cleaning off all the old adhesive.


----------



## vinyllp33

miceblue said:


> This is the Stax thread....with discussion about what kind of music sounds good with them.





Right, because with the Stax it is too easy to want to "kill-the-messenger" when, in fact, the phones are simply reproducing what is on the original recording.

Which is why often times I will reach for the SR007's instead of the 009's for certain (known) less than ideal recordings.


----------



## miceblue

With Stax, the differences between 16/44 and 32/384 become so apparent that I can't go back to any other headphone. This is madness!


----------



## DefQon

No the difference becomes apparent when you buy a 64 bit 768khz upsampling DAC.


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No the difference becomes apparent when you buy a 64 bit 768khz upsampling DAC.


 
   
  But will it run on 32 bit windows or do I need to buy an upsampling operating system?


----------



## Chris J

defqon said:


> Got a source to back that up?




Seriously?
Go check the specs of any PROFESSIONAL recording gear.
Typically multi- tracked at 96 kHz 24 bit and mixed down to 96 kHz, 24 bit resolution.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Seriously?
> Go check the specs of any PROFESSIONAL recording gear.
> Typically multi- tracked at 96 kHz 24 bit and mixed down to 96 kHz, 24 bit resolution.


 
  I think you have what I posted originally confused with I'm trying to imply here. A LARGE PERCENTAGE (%) of digital media/mediums is in 16 bit format, i.e CD's and a lot of downloadable content online. I WASN'T talking about the specs of professional recording gear nor the specified standard formats these use for mastering, yes 24 bit EXISTS, but it is a MINORITY to the amount of 16bit stuff OUT THERE. Comprende?


----------



## dukeskd

In the usual studios we record in 24bit. Then when doing mastering, the whole processing, mixing, is done in 32bit floating especially when dealing with clipping. The usual output to a record label is in 44.1/24bit. That is the standard.
   
  I am not sure why people are saying that the 007s are forgiving with less than ideal material. I actually found out that my 007mk1 is brutal with lower quality records, so much that I cannot concentrate on the music. With the 009s I didn't have this problem. I am actually shocked to find that I find a variety of detail I haven't heard before with the 007s.


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> In the usual studios we record in 24bit. Then when doing mastering, the whole processing, mixing, is done in 32bit floating especially when dealing with clipping. The usual output to a record label is in 44.1/24bit. _*That is the standard.*_


 
   
  Why listen to someone who's actually been doing this kind of work and providing information with some real ground? I much prefer keep reading opinionated posts from people who have never had even just one foot in a recording studio, much less a mastering session ;-P.
   
  While it is only remotely connected, people doing acoustic measurements nowadays record at 24 bit depths by simplicity and because the hardware is available. Not that the recording or instrument grade microphones ever much see more than 60-70dB of dynamic range but it just makes it a far easier job to records say hundreds of channels of data. In that past, we had like 12bit A/D converters which forced to be extremely careful with the preamp stages, making such you'd maximize the signal but also keep sufficient headroom to prevent clipping. Nowadays, you don't even need to autorange the levels, you just record at 24 bit scales, job done.


----------



## vinyllp33

I just find, at least in my system, that the 007's have a bit warmer tonal balance as compared to the 009's which can help with some "hot" recordings.

No doubt the 009's are on a much higher level as far as overall resolution is concerned.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> While it is only remotely connected, people doing acoustic measurements nowadays record at 24 bit depths by simplicity and because the hardware is available. Not that the recording or instrument grade microphones ever much see more than 60-70dB of dynamic range _*but it just makes it a far easier job to records say hundreds of channels of data*_. In that past, we had like 12bit A/D converters which forced to be extremely careful with the preamp stages, making such you'd maximize the signal but also keep sufficient headroom to prevent clipping. Nowadays, you don't even need to autorange the levels, you just record at 24 bit scales, job done.


 
  Exactly. And this, ladies and gents, is the main reason why we record in 24bit. Thanks for the great post arnaud.


----------



## miceblue

Yee, so that's what I basically said.
   
  Now let's get back on the consumer level since that's what 90% of Head-Fi is. 16-bits is good enough.


----------



## DefQon

Hopefully it be a matter of time all CD's will become mainstream of 24bit as well not just limited to SACD's and HD content online.


----------



## telecaster

Having a CD 16bits is a compromize made when red book was created, as much as the lentgh of playing time of 74min due to beautiful Mozart symphony and at 44khz sample rate due to most if not all human can't hear anything above 20khz.
  20bits 48khz would have been perfect and non bottleneck. Seacrest out.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Hopefully it be a matter of time all CD's will become mainstream of 24bit as well not just limited to SACD's and HD content online.


 
  Actually it seems to be going the other way.... most music these days is consumed by the public in some kind of compressed form.... MP3's etc -  buying an actual CD is dwindling as a way to buy music... and downloading hi-rez files is a very small market segment compared to the sales of the iTunes store...
   
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/09/music-sales-2012-digital-physical_n_2440380.html
   
  I hope the day doesn't come when all new releases are in some lossy compressed format- hardly pays to have good gear like Stax....


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Actually it seems to be going the other way.... most music these days is consumed by the public in some kind of compressed form.... MP3's etc -  buying an actual CD is dwindling as a way to buy music... and downloading hi-rez files is a very small market segment compared to the sales of the iTunes store...


 
  Indeed and it still doesn't rule out with what I've been saying all this time a large percentage out there i.e being CD's is 16bit.


----------



## miceblue

Actually, I believe Apple has mastering-quality files sitting at their end not being released to the public and are instead converting them to the more appropriate 256 kbps AAC files you see in the store. Or at least for "Mastered for iTunes" albums.
  http://www.apple.com/itunes/mastered-for-itunes/
   
  Quote: 





> ...blah blah blah 16/44 stuff we already know...
> The Nyquist sampling theorem states that to accurately represent a signal one must use a sampling rate double that of the highest frequency being represented. The highest frequency audible to humans is around 20kHz; therefore a sampling rate of over 40kHz is required to accurately capture the audible range of frequencies. Compact discs’ 44.1kHz rate is adequate for this need.
> 
> Even so, many experts feel that using higher resolution PCM files during production provides better-quality audio and a superior listening experience in the end product. For this reason, 96/24 resolution is quickly becoming a standard format in the industry [there you go DefQon], and it’s also common to see higher resolution files, such as 192/24.
> ...


----------



## DefQon

Yes I want more 24/96khz stuff, schit I want 32bit 768khz material for that matter as well. The Nyquist Sampling theroem does not lie, hence there is no spoon.


----------



## Chris J

defqon said:


> I think you have what I posted originally confused with I'm trying to imply here. A LARGE PERCENTAGE (%) of digital media/mediums is in 16 bit format, i.e CD's and a lot of downloadable content online. I WASN'T talking about the specs of professional recording gear nor the specified standard formats these use for mastering, yes 24 bit EXISTS, but it is a MINORITY to the amount of 16bit stuff OUT THERE. Comprende?





Confusing for sure!

Let's just say that I would prefer to get consumer files in the sampling rate the music was recorded in, or at least an integer divisor,
i.e. 48 or 96 kHz (assuming it was recorded and processed in 48 or 96 or 192 kHz.)

Perhaps 20 bits would be nice..........?

the mastering engineers say that a 96 to 44.1 kHz conversion is not a good thing.


----------



## grokit

Back to Stax...
   
  The 009 is indeed spoiling me for all other headphones. And hopefully by the end of the week I will find out how behind the nut I am with my WEE, as the LL 3 2 is due to arrive for demo.
   
  My remaining collection of high-end cans is doomed, they sound like a joke in comparison


----------



## shipsupt

LL3?  Can we safely assume a typo?


----------



## Solude

Iterative design brother, it's now has a natural aluminum faceplate, MK+1 /zing


----------



## SoupRKnowva

So it seems Im going to be getting back on the Stax train. After gathering some of the parts to build myself a KGSSHV almost a year ago now, and then selling them all off along with all my headphone related gear to build an awesome speaker rig. Now that I have my speaker rig all done, I find out I'm getting orders to Korea and then hopefully to japan. So rather than leave all my speaker stuff here in storage for several years I'm going to sell it all to fund a pair of Sr-009s, my dream headphone. 

 Though now I have the tough decision of picking out an amp. I could go with the 323S, but I just dont think that it would the 009s justice, and it would just be an attempt to save some money. What I would really like is to see a DIY'd Blue Hawaii or KGSSHV pop up, but i think thats kind of a pipe dream. So I think what's going to happen is im going to end up getting a BHSE from justin. He has some being built right now in this run that arent accounted for right?


----------



## zare

grokit said:


> Back to Stax...
> 
> The 009 is indeed spoiling me for all other headphones. And hopefully by the end of the week I will find out how behind the nut I am with my WEE, as the LL3 is due to arrive for demo.
> 
> My remaining collection of high-end cans is doomed, they sound like a joke in comparison




That's why I've sold all of my dynamic/ortho cans. I thought its only me.


----------



## rawrster

There was a LL in the FS recently that really tempted me. It's a shame I couldn't justify it after spending so much lately. Right now I'm keeping my HD800 rig although Stax only would make things easier for me. I would have one dac, one amp and my SR007 although adding in a SR009 with those funds from selling off the rest could be tempting. 
   
  I haven't touched my HD800 rig since the SR007 arrived but I'll have abetter idea in a few months.


----------



## miceblue

Rofl wrong thread, ahaha.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

rawrster said:


> There was a LL in the FS recently that really tempted me. It's a shame I couldn't justify it after spending so much lately. Right now I'm keeping my HD800 rig although Stax only would make things easier for me. I would have one dac, one amp and my SR007 although adding in a SR009 with those funds from selling off the rest could be tempting.
> 
> I haven't touched my HD800 rig since the SR007 arrived but I'll have abetter idea in a few months.



 
 Yeah Im down with only having the 009s. that was my plan before when I was still in headphones, but I went the speaker route instead. I dont really see the utility in having multiple cans, I would only use the one i considered best, and the 009s imo are better than anything else. I still havent heard a music transducer that gave me the magic i heard from the 009s, and that was only hearing them off the A-10 at chiunifi last year

 Im not as interested in the LL or the LL2. hoping that spritzer decides to unload a few more of his random creations, but thats probably a pipe dream -_- Like i said, ill probably end up getting a BHSE


----------



## MacedonianHero

While I haven't, I could very happily live with my SR-009/HeadAmp KGSS as my one and only rig.


----------



## gilency

108 Fahrenheit in my hometown. Time to start listening to the 002's 
Even the KGSSHV adds to the heat in my living room. They don't go above 60 Fahrenheit though I should not complain.


----------



## grokit

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> LL3?  Can we safely assume a typo?


 
   
  Whoops, fixed thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Quote: 





rawrster said:


> There was a LL in the FS recently that really tempted me. It's a shame I couldn't justify it after spending so much lately. Right now I'm keeping my HD800 rig although Stax only would make things easier for me. I would have one dac, one amp and my SR007 although adding in a SR009 with those funds from selling off the rest could be tempting.
> 
> I haven't touched my HD800 rig since the SR007 arrived but I'll have abetter idea in a few months.


 
   
  I saw that, I am in the same boat too much lately. I haven't heard either LL, but frankly if the sonic improvement is negligible I don't need the extra functionality of the LL2. I want to keep my WA22 as balanced preamp feeding SS components so the so the original LL may be better for my setup but this is the one making the rounds and I am really looking forward to listening to it.


----------



## miceblue

How does an Eddie Current Electra sound with a SR-009?
  And the same question but for a Liquid Lightning (I not II).
  And the same question but for the legendary Blue Hawaii.


----------



## DefQon

Very neutral with the 009+BHSE (not mine). The 009 is like a swiss knife cutting through butter but unfortunately lacks a bit of meat and bit tad bright for my taste. Surprisingly there is some sound resemblance to that of my Omega's when I had them. 
   
  Haven't heard the LL nor Electra (has Craig closed up on prototyping the Electra and already started accepting orders for the finalised build?).


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





gilency said:


> 108 Fahrenheit in my hometown. Time to start listening to the 002's
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  60F?
   
  Anyway, over here I had a couple of amps on to keep my feet warm


----------



## shipsupt

My understanding is that the Electra has been a finalized build since he offered the $3500 pre-order deal.  I think those numbered around 10 and were final production units. 
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Haven't heard the LL nor Electra (has Craig closed up on prototyping the Electra and already started accepting orders for the finalised build?).


----------



## mechgamer123

Back from Anaheim now and finally getting a chance to listen to my new SR-2020 system.
 Two problems (not with the headphones but rather with the transformers): The US transformer I bought makes the stax box make a high pitched whining noise, so I turned it off and plugged in the Japanese transformer, which runs just fine. Only problem though is there's buzzing due to a lack of grounding.
 Any ideas on how to fix either type of buzzing?


----------



## jcx

If you hurry it looks like a couple of Stax 007/systems are being offered in the for sale forum for more than the new pricejapan cost


----------



## Chris J

Elusive Disc is running a 10% off sale, which includes all in stock Stax product.
I'm getting an itch!


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Very neutral with the 009+BHSE (not mine). The 009 is like a swiss knife cutting through butter but unfortunately lacks a bit of meat and bit tad bright for my taste. Surprisingly there is some sound resemblance to that of my Omega's when I had them.
> 
> Haven't heard the LL nor Electra (has Craig closed up on prototyping the Electra and already started accepting orders for the finalised build?).


 
  I would say the SR-009/KGSS is a fantastic combo and bang on neutral and ruthlessly revealing. So a bright source/material will come off that way. Don't blame the SR-009/BHSE or KGSS for that. Blame the darn recording or DAC.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I would say the SR-009/KGSS is a fantastic combo and bang on neutral and ruthlessly revealing. So a bright source/material will come off that way. Don't blame the SR-009/BHSE or KGSS for that. Blame the darn recording or DAC.


 
  Well I can't say we had a DAC in the chain but it was all hooked up to my old Shanling CD300 transport (a very very good cd transport imho). We played stuff from various classical Beethoven sonata's to Schubert orchestra's to few of Tchaiozky (can't get the name right) movement pieces to bit of metal, rock (Tool, Pink Floyd) etc to finally a bit of EDM music. Very neutral yes indeed it is but there was at times a bit of brightness to some of the classical pieces or when the electric guitar kicks in. I'm guessing this could be dependent on the recording as well as they are sort of bright on my Stax headphones too.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Well I can't say we had a DAC in the chain but it was all hooked up to my old Shanling CD300 transport (a very very good cd transport imho). We played stuff from various classical Beethoven sonata's to Schubert orchestra's to few of Tchaiozky (can't get the name right) movement pieces to bit of metal, rock (Tool, Pink Floyd) etc to finally a bit of EDM music. Very neutral yes indeed it is but there was at times a bit of brightness to some of the classical pieces or when the electric guitar kicks in. I'm guessing this could be dependent on the recording as well as they are sort of bright on my Stax headphones too.


 
  Very much the recording can play into things. FWIW, I don't really consider the Shanling CD300 up to snuff for the SR-009s...most likely the source of the "bit of brightness"; or the recording itself was recorded that way.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Very much the recording can play into things. FWIW, I don't really consider the Shanling CD300 up to snuff for the SR-009s...most likely the source of the "bit of brightness"; or the recording itself was recorded that way.


 
  Trust me the modded Shanling CD300 that was once mine is very good, easily better than the Cambridge 840C that I compared to at my distributor when I was choosing to buy a transport, heck it was $400 less expensive than the 840C (down under prices are to blame). The only transport system that outclassed the Shanling was some $4k Oppo unit with a very good build-in DAC.  But I think it does come down to  recordings though. The Staxens are known to very neutral and revealing as you go up the chain.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Trust me the modded Shanling CD300 that was once mine is very good, easily better than the Cambridge 840C that I compared to at my distributor when I was choosing to buy a transport, heck it was $400 less expensive than the 840C (down under prices are to blame). The only transport system that outclassed the Shanling was some $4k Oppo unit with a very good build-in DAC.  But I think it does come down to  recordings though. The Staxens are known to very neutral and revealing as you go up the chain.


 
  Funny, I consider both "bright" sources. Both very nice, but still a tad bright. What other DACs have you heard?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Funny, I consider both "bright" sources. Both very nice, but still a tad bright. What other DACs have you heard?


 
  The four figure priced DAC's I've heard:
   
  The Lampi L4, Sim's 380D, PWD2, NorthStar Design Essensio / 192 MK2, Weiss 202, Benchmark DAC1 and 2 other models from the Audio Note kit.
   
  And bunch of other mid-fi, low-fi and diy DAC's that aren't really worth mentioning.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> The four figure priced DAC's I've heard:
> 
> The Lampi L4, Sim's 380D, PWD2, NorthStar Design Essensio / 192 MK2, Weiss 202, Benchmark DAC1 and 2 other models from the Audio Note kit.
> 
> And bunch of other mid-fi, low-fi and diy DAC's that aren't really worth mentioning.


 
  Too bad you didn't get to hear the SR-009s with the PWD2, would have changed your mind on any brightness. Speaking of DACs, looks like Cary has released a successor to the XCiter DAC, the DAC-100. I'll add this to my list to demo.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Too bad you didn't get to hear the SR-009s with the PWD2, would have changed your mind on any brightness.


 
  Yeah I thought so too if I had one of the good amp's in the chain should bump up the sound quality a notch or too. But I guess owning is very different to just auditioning it due to limited time you spend with the equipment and the lack of trying it with your own gear. I've heard most of the DAC's mentioned at different times so it's hard to say what is best and so but there are few that stand out with stellar sound.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

macedonianhero said:


> I would say the SR-009/KGSS is a fantastic combo and bang on neutral and ruthlessly revealing. So a bright source/material will come off that way. Don't blame the SR-009/BHSE or KGSS for that. Blame the darn recording or DAC.



 


 Man...it would make my decision so much easier if I could find a used KGSS like you did MH


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Man...it would make my decision so much easier if I could find a used KGSS like you did MH


 
  I was really lucky too...local deal too (and a HeadAmp version to boot). I jumped on as soon as I saw it.


----------



## rawrster

I'm still waiting for a KGSSHV to show up locally


----------



## DefQon

Why not just build one? More fun with DIY then buying off shelf (which ain't a bad thing as well).


----------



## autoteleology

> There are few that stand out with stellar sound.


 
   
  Just my two cents, but I had an extended session (about three hours) at a meet with a PDW2 --> GS-X --> HE-6, using my laptop as a source. I also had my ODAC connected to my computer with an out to the GS-X, and using PotPlayer, I could switch between the ODAC and the PDW2 two instantly with only about 25ms of latency. I could hear little to no difference between the two. I may have only a limited experience with the PDW2, but I wouldn't really call it one that stands out from the crowd.


----------



## Solude

And here we go! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I haven't heard the ODAC but to say it sounds like a DAC that's just wrecking $5K+ DACs... while having a $2500 street price... damn


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





solude said:


> And here we go!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Why do you need such an expensive DAC anyway? Price ≠ quality
   
  Oh maybe expensive DACs can play 64-bit, 768 kHz sampling rate files.


----------



## autoteleology

> I haven't heard the ODAC but to say it sounds like a DAC that's just wrecking $5K+ DACs... while having a $2500 street price... damn


 
   
  I'm not saying the ODAC is some kind of DAC monster. If anything, my implication is that the diminishing point for a DAC for its intended purpose is in the two-digit range. I'm actually downgrading my ODAC to a lower-end DAC because I don't believe it makes a whole lot of difference what DAC you're using, unless you're using components and topologies that intentionally flavor the sound (which I suspect many high-end DACs might be doing).


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Just my two cents, but I had an extended session (about three hours) at a meet with a PDW2 --> GS-X --> HE-6, using my laptop as a source. I also had my ODAC connected to my computer with an out to the GS-X, and using PotPlayer, I could switch between the ODAC and the PDW2 two instantly with only about 25ms of latency. I could hear little to no difference between the two. I may have only a limited experience with the PDW2, but I wouldn't really call it one that stands out from the crowd.


 
  I didn't like the PWD2 either. There are two DAC's that really stand out for me. The lampizator configuration I've heard and the Sim's Audio 380D.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Why do you need such an expensive DAC anyway? Price ≠ quality
> 
> Oh maybe expensive DACs can play 64-bit, 768 kHz sampling rate files.


 
  You make a good point. Why even have a DAC at all??? It's 2013. All computer sound cards can do a simple conversion of digital to analog using just a tiny fraction of the CPUs power. All properly designed DACs and amps sound the same. If you think I'm wrong please do a thorough scientific study doing ABX blind testing with alteast 10,000 subjects and make sure you get it published in a peer-reviewed journal for electrical engineers. Otherwise I'm right and people are just foolin themselves. (BTW I won't be paying for these tests. You need to do them out of your own pocket for my own pleasure.)


----------



## DefQon

Don't even need computer sound cards, just use onboard. That Realtek is more refined sounding than anything else out there.


----------



## autoteleology

> You make a good point. Why even have a DAC at all??? It's 2013. All computer sound cards can do a simple conversion of digital to analog using just a tiny fraction of the CPUs power. All properly designed DACs and amps sound the same. If you think I'm wrong please do a thorough scientific study doing ABX blind testing with alteast 10,000 subjects and make sure you get it published in a peer-reviewed journal for electrical engineers. Otherwise I'm right and people are just foolin themselves. (BTW I won't be paying for these tests. You need to do them out of your own pocket for my own pleasure.)


 
   
  This is obviously a troll/joke post, but I'll engage it to further my point.
   
  I'm sure the computer probably does the DAC conversion just fine, but there are a ton of other factors that make it sound like butts. My point is, it doesn't take a whole lot of engineering or money or components to take care of these problems. After that, it's just choosing architectures and reconstruction filters and the like to achieve the desired product.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Don't even need computer sound cards, just use onboard. That Realtek is more refined sounding than anything else out there.


 
  My Realtek makes my Concero sound like a joke. It's WAY more transparent/focused/neutral and the precision of attack is incredible, the leading edges have never been sharper. It retrieves micro-details I've never heard through the Concero and it just sings like an angel. I think the Realtek's only competition may be the ODAC, but then again the ODAC is the best so the Realtek will probably end up losing by a significant margin.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> My Realtek makes my Concero sound like a joke. It's WAY more transparent/focused/neutral and the precision of attack is incredible, the leading edges have never been sharper. It retrieves micro-details I've never heard through the Concero and it just sings like an angel. I think the Realtek's only competition may be the ODAC, but then again the ODAC is the best so the Realtek will probably end up losing by a significant margin.


 
  I know so true, my onboard Realtek blows everything out there that I have heard, heck measurements wise it puts that shiny MSB Diamond $30k DAC to shame in terms of THD levels. I don't know about the ODAC beating the Realtek, it's a tough call but they are close with the Realtek offering more PRaT, sounding more musical, and makes my stuff really sing which my other DAC's just sound so uninvolving in comparison it is not even funny.


----------



## autoteleology

> My Realtek makes my Concero sound like a joke. It's WAY more transparent/focused/neutral and the precision of attack is incredible, the leading edges have never been sharper. It retrieves micro-details I've never heard through the Concero and it just sings like an angel. I think the Realtek's only competition may be the ODAC, but then again the ODAC is the best so the Realtek will probably end up losing by a significant margin.


 
   
  Well, duh, everything made in Canada sucks. The only thing Canadians are good at are spiffy police officers, moose antler exports, and getting high on maple syrup extract.


----------



## DefQon

LOL


----------



## bearFNF

Don't forget about their beer, too.  Oh and they have some real nice whiskey...


----------



## wink

I really do wonder why I bother to read/fo;;ow this thread...!!!!!!


----------



## EveTan

For the Stax Lambda setup, what characteristic (generalized) do each models have?
   
  So far, looking into:
   
  202
  217
  303
  404
  407
  507
  Lambda Sig
  Lambda Nova...basic/sig
   
  Too many choices, and no idea where to start.


----------



## DefQon

I'd cross off the 407/507 as they are imo inferior to the rest. 303 = 404 Sig. 202/207 are fairly good. LNS is one of my favourite's. Haven't heard the Lambda Sig's.


----------



## mechgamer123

@Eve: I do believe there is no such thing as a 217, just the 207 
   
  In other news, I'm loving my SR-2020 system! They're just a bit bright yet not painful at all on songs with harsh treble. That, and the bass impact is surprisingly good as well.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> @Eve: I do believe there is no such thing as a 217, just the 217


 
  Eh?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I'd cross off the 407/507 as they are imo inferior to the rest. 303 = 404 Sig. 202/207 are fairly good. LNS is one of my favourite's. Haven't heard the Lambda Sig's.


 
  Does 303=404 Sig= good? 
   
  How is it compared to the 202/207


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Fixed. Running on little to no sleep over here lol


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Does 303=404 Sig= good?
> 
> How is it compared to the 202/207


 
  I like it, have the 404 Sig's myself. They have a slight mid-bass bump compared to the regular 202/207 and not as bright sounding but a wonderful treble range. Of course some others won't like it as much.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Have you heard the 202 and 207? Is there a huge difference between the two?
   
  Also, knowing Eve's sound preferences, I think they'd prefer the 202/207 if it's a bit brighter. Lol


----------



## EveTan

And I hear the Lambda Nova Basic lacks extension on both ends. According the Lugia (the headfier who doesn't post too much but has a fair amount of Staxes)
   
  Better?


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





evetan said:


> And I hear the Lambda Nova Basic lacks extension on both ends. According the Lugia


 
  I know who you're talking about, but you might wanna add some context. Not everyone knows who Lugia is (other than the pokemon) since he doesn't post very much.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Have you heard the 202 and 207? Is there a huge difference between the two?
> 
> Also, knowing Eve's sound preferences, I think they'd prefer the 202/207 if it's a bit brighter. Lol


 
  I don't know if I like brighter sigs. Does bright translate into feeling more detail? I definitely do like my detail.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That's really a difficult question to answer, there are some bright headphones that lack detail and some dark headphones that have excellent detail. Generally though bright=more detail...
  I don't think you'll probably be missing detail from either of them though. They're stats after all!


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I don't know if I like brighter sigs. Does bright translate into feeling more detail? I definitely do like my detail.


 
   
  Try the 407 and 507 you will love it. I never liked buying used headphones.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Have you heard the 202 and 207? Is there a huge difference between the two?
> 
> Also, knowing Eve's sound preferences, I think they'd prefer the 202/207 if it's a bit brighter. Lol


 
  I own the 202's and have heard the 207. The new 2/4/507 range are definitely bit brighter sounding to my ears.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I own the 202's and have heard the 207. The new 2/4/507 range are definitely bit brighter sounding to my ears.


 
  Guess I'll stay with the 2XX series. Do you recommend changing pads?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Guess I'll stay with the 2XX series. Do you recommend changing pads?


 
   
  That's up to you. The fitting of the pads can provide a difference to comfort and seal which can improve or degrade sound.


----------



## 3X0

tus-chan said:


> Just my two cents, but I had an extended session (about three hours) at a meet with a PDW2 --> GS-X --> HE-6, using my laptop as a source. I also had my ODAC connected to my computer with an out to the GS-X, and using PotPlayer, I could switch between the ODAC and the PDW2 two instantly with only about 25ms of latency. I could hear little to no difference between the two. I may have only a limited experience with the PDW2, but I wouldn't really call it one that stands out from the crowd.



Had a similar experience a little over three years ago. Saved me a lot of $$$ (on upstream anyways). Thank goodness I don't need 24-bit either.


----------



## TMRaven

If someone had both the LCD2/3 and Stax SR-007, could they give a comparison on the size of the earpad openings?


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





defqon said:


> That's up to you. The fitting of the pads can provide a difference to comfort and seal which can improve or degrade sound.


 
   
  I have the 202, 303, and 507 pads, and the 507 pads blow everything else away. The 202 pads in particular feel pretty terrible. The liner in them is super harsh mesh that feels really bad on the ears, and the pad material itself is like the stuff found on a $20 shooter's headset.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Are your ears pressed on the earpad (a la M-100 style)?
  When I tried the Λ Signature, the earpads didn't press against my ears.
   
  Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yay for not buying used! *high five*
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  How does the new _07 series compare to the Λ Signature?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Are your ears pressed on the earpad (a la M-100 style)?
> When I tried the Λ Signature, the earpads didn't press against my ears.
> 
> Yay for not buying used! *high five*
> ...


 

 I got the 507 and Sigs. Sigs are significantly more neutral and balanced compared to the 507s. Also sound stage and imaging are wider in my opinion, so for me the Sigs are a lot better. One thing the 507 has more in quantity is the bass, but it is bloated.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I have the 202, 303, and 507 pads, and the 507 pads blow everything else away. The 202 pads in particular feel pretty terrible. The liner in them is super harsh mesh that feels really bad on the ears, and the pad material itself is like the stuff found on a $20 shooter's headset.


 
   
  I like the 202 with the stock pads, feels great around my ears. To each their own....


----------



## ktm

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Guess I'll stay with the 2XX series. Do you recommend changing pads?


 
  I changed my stock 202 pads out for leather-liked them quite a bit more than the pleather.
  I believe the leather gives a touch more base as well. The cost isn't cheap, though.


----------



## telecaster

507 bloated? I would have wished for more expansive bass with my 507, they are really tight and controlled to those ears and slightly shy too.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  The 507 has a silver cable, and the Λ Signature has copper, correct? I found that silver cables tend to make the sound a bit brighter.
   
   
  Oh *Tus-Chan*, I'm writing my review for the K 701 and I mention that its treble is somewhat fatiguing. When the treble takes a toll on your listening experience and causes you to take the headphones off your head, what does alternative word to fatiguing to you use? i.e. the PRO900's sssssssssibilance is so fatiguing to me that my ears, physically, that I can't stand listening to them for more than 2 minutes without destroying my eardrums causing them to bleed.
   
  The Λ Signature definitely has a non-fatiguing treble in this sense.


----------



## DefQon

Cables in this matter doesn't affect sound. Well shouldn't. As with pads I really dislike the newer thinner pads that are used from the Lambda Nova line to now. The early Lambda series pads to me are the best, shame you can't buy thrm no more.


----------



## davidsh

Lambda Sig is also very detailed, albeit not necessarily ver bright. Thinnest Stax diaphragm after all... If that actually makes a difference.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Had a similar experience a little over three years ago. Saved me a lot of $$$ (on upstream anyways). Thank goodness I don't need 24-bit either.


 

 The most important part of any DAC is its line stage. If it isn't a good class-A silicon or even better a very good tube output with preferably NOS tubes - I prefer triple mica black plates from the 50s - or in case you need E88CC, good ole German Siemens/Halske CCa or Telefunken E88CC (a tad brighter) even the most high upsampling rate will take you nowhere.
   
  Search on the net. There are DIY'ers that use ancient no-oversampling Philips converters from the first generation with excellent results. Just my 2¢, but I stick to my good ole Cayin DAC with S/H CCa even after I listened to extremely expensive upsamplers. Trust your ears ...


----------



## reiserFS

How does a Srm-1/Mk-2 compare to a SRM-300? Having a chance to buy a SR-202/SRM-300 combo for my bedside rig, so I was wondering about the differences.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> The 507 has a silver cable, and the Λ Signature has copper, correct? I found that silver cables tend to make the sound a bit brighter.


 
  Even if the conductor material somehow made a difference in the tonality of the sound, what applies to cables with standard dynamics is much different from the ideal cable for an electrostat.  Low capacitance and inductance are of importance here, with less emphasis on resistance.
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Lambda Sig is also very detailed, albeit not necessarily ver bright. Thinnest Stax diaphragm after all... If that actually makes a difference.


 
  Yep, it makes a very big difference.  There's a reason the Lambda Sig is the king of detail of all Lambdas. 
   
  Diaphragm thickness also effects the roll off point of the treble.  Theoretically 3.5 um is about the thickest you want to go so as not to run into roll off before 20 kHz.  Lambda Signature (again in theory) should be able to hit something like 90 kHz before -3 dB roll off, likely by far the furthest supersonic extension of any headphone ever.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  3.5 micrometers? How thin is the Λ Signature one then? 
  That's really thin!


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I got the 507 and Sigs. Sigs are significantly more neutral and balanced compared to the 507s. Also sound stage and imaging are wider in my opinion, so for me the Sigs are a lot better. One thing the 507 has more in quantity is the bass, but it is bloated.


 
  Are the Lambda Nova Signature close to the Lambda Sigs? Or is there a big difference.
  Quote: 





ktm said:


> I changed my stock 202 pads out for leather-liked them quite a bit more than the pleather.
> I believe the leather gives a touch more base as well. The cost isn't cheap, though.


 
  Where can I get new pads? And so far the recommendation is... 507 pads and leather pads?


----------



## n3rdling

Lambda Sigs are 1 micron thickness Mylar.  Add some thickness for coating.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> How does a Srm-1/Mk-2 compare to a SRM-300? Having a chance to buy a SR-202/SRM-300 combo for my bedside rig, so I was wondering about the differences.


 
  I was told by spritzer that the SRM1-MK2 is better but the SRM-300 is fairly unique in having a regulated PS. Which is why I cancelled my SRM-300 transaction and went for a SRM-323S which still hasn't damn arrived.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Where can I get new pads? And so far the recommendation is... 507 pads and leather pads?


 
  You can buy it from the StaxUSA. There are only two leather pads to my knowledge you can buy. The 507 (rip off price) and 404-LE pads. The rest are faux leather/pleather.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You can buy it from the StaxUSA. There are only two leather pads to my knowledge you can buy. The 507 (rip off price) and 404-LE pads. The rest are faux leather/pleather.


 
  I'm assuming all Lambda Style headphone can use any of these pads right?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I'm assuming all Lambda Style headphone can use any of these pads right?


 
  They are all interchangeable.


----------



## arnaud

n3rdling said:


> Diaphragm thickness also effects the roll off point of the treble.  Theoretically 3.5 um is about the thickest you want to go so as not to run into roll off before 20 kHz.  Lambda Signature (again in theory) should be able to hit something like 90 kHz before -3 dB roll off, likely by far the furthest supersonic extension of any headphone ever.




N3rdling, I'd be interested in reading more about this, PM welcome if you have any link / source!


----------



## DefQon

Anyone interested in a SRM-1 MK2 P.P amp? Need a step down trafo to 100v or re-wired.


----------



## EveTan

@ DefQon
   
  How are the Gamma Pros?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> @ DefQon
> 
> How are the Gamma Pros?


 
  Musical but not as detailed sounding as the Lambda's. The non pro one on Yahoo Jap will be mine


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Musical but not as detailed sounding as the Lambda's. The non pro one on Yahoo Jap will be mine


 
  Haha you puzzle me...
   
  Why would you get a non pro one when you have a Gamma Pro? Collection purposes?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


>





> Collection purposes?


 
  That's exactly what I'm doing. I only buy stuff with original boxes (unless the deal is too sweet to let go). I plan on building a mini Stax earspeaker museum featuring all model's that are well regarded.


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I plan on building a mini Stax earspeaker museum featuring all model's that are well regarded.


 

 Wow!


----------



## DefQon

It will take some time but I'll get there.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> It will take some time but I'll get there.


 
  When you complete it, I'll fly over to view your museum . Maybe you can waive the museum entrance fee for us.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





defqon said:


> That's exactly what I'm doing. I only buy stuff with original boxes (unless the deal is too sweet to let go). I plan on building a mini Stax earspeaker museum featuring all model's that are well regarded.


 
  what a waste of good headphones.  out of the hands of listeners, sitting there collecting dust.  
   
  A toy never played with is not a toy.


----------



## DefQon

keithpgdrb said:


> what a waste of good headphones.  out of the hands of listeners, sitting there collecting dust.
> 
> A toy never played with is not a toy.




 I still listen to all of them don't get me wrong. Better buying them then letting spritzer buying and butchering them up for mods.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Anyone interested in a SRM-1 MK2 P.P amp? Need a step down trafo to 100v or re-wired.


 
  How much?
 I am running my SRM-212 from the 100v transformer :3
  Quote: 





keithpgdrb said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  This x1000. That's why I got out of stupid hobbies like collecting coins...


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I still listen to all of them don't get me wrong. Better buying them then letting spritzer buying and butchering them up for mods.


 
  It may be probable that the stuff you already bought were in spritzer's hands at some point


----------



## DefQon

dukeskd said:


> It may be probable that the stuff you already bought were in spritzer's hands at some point




 Doubt that all my Stax have been from 1st owners or local and all in mint condition for it's age except the usual flaking headband or deteriorating foam.


----------



## telecaster

you forgot to include the price you wanna sell


----------



## reiserFS

There was a typo in my original question, meant the SRM-310. Difference between the SRM-300 and SRM-310?
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> I was told by spritzer that the SRM1-MK2 is better but the SRM-300 is fairly unique in having a regulated PS. Which is why I cancelled my SRM-300 transaction and went for a SRM-323S which still hasn't damn arrived.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> There was a typo in my original question, meant the SRM-310. Difference between the SRM-300 and SRM-310?


 
  Probably the same thing.
   

 SRM-300 / SRM-310 2003 350V 1x RCA 2x Pro Bias, RCA Loop Out Solid state, styled as an earspeaker stand


----------



## davidsh

DefQon, the bug is strong with you


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> DefQon, the bug is strong with you


 
  Indeed it is. Once I'm employed again with a new job, I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with a SR-007mk1 and the BHSE.


----------



## spritzer

I only butcher Gamma's and that's to give Sigma's and Lambda's a new lease of life.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> There was a typo in my original question, meant the SRM-310. Difference between the SRM-300 and SRM-310?


 
   
  Same thing, just different markets.


----------



## 3X0

yawg said:


> The most important part of any DAC is its line stage. If it isn't a good class-A silicon or even better a very good tube output with preferably NOS tubes - I prefer triple mica black plates from the 50s - or in case you need E88CC, good ole German Siemens/Halske CCa or Telefunken E88CC (a tad brighter) even the most high upsampling rate will take you nowhere.
> 
> Search on the net. There are DIY'ers that use ancient no-oversampling Philips converters from the first generation with excellent results. Just my 2¢, but I stick to my good ole Cayin DAC with S/H CCa even after I listened to extremely expensive upsamplers. Trust your ears ...



I think a test where I failed to tell the difference does not strictly run contrariwise to trusting my ears.


----------



## moodyrn

I recently scored an srm 1 original and I would like to know if there's a guide somewhere on how to add a pro bias output. I tried goggle without much luck. I would appreciate any help in the matter.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Quote: 





moodyrn said:


> I recently scored an srm 1 original and I would like to know if there's a guide somewhere on how to add a pro bias output. I tried goggle without much luck. I would appreciate any help in the matter.


 
  this is for the srm1 mk2.
   
  http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srm-1mk2-bias-modification/


----------



## moodyrn

Thanks, so is it safe to assume this will work the same way with the srm 1 mkI?


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Doubt that all my Stax have been from 1st owners or local and all in mint condition for it's age except the usual flaking headband or deteriorating foam.


 
   
  Talking about mint condition, going through some stuff and just came across my unopened SRE-15N extension cable. Forgot I had that. Strange product. I wonder if anyone's ever destroyed their headphones from plugging their normals into the wrong socket...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





moodyrn said:


> Thanks, so is it safe to assume this will work the same way with the srm 1 mkI?


 
  Nope that won't work. I got myself an SRM 1 months ago and spritzer and audiocats said that you need to measure the bridge connected to the heatsink and make a voltage divider off that, using components rated at more then 600v so it can handle that amount of voltage without going kaputz. 
   
  Since it was too much work/time/cost involved for what it's worth, I just recapped everything inside, re-socketed that ugly worn out RCA jacks/rewired/recabled and reflowed some joints that looked off, substituted some of the coupling caps for WIMA's and left it as is to drive my normal/low bias headphones. I've purchased a SRM-323S to drive the rest of my stuff.


----------



## moodyrn

Ok, thanks for that. Looks like it may be way more complicated than I had hoped.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





moodyrn said:


> Ok, thanks for that. Looks like it may be way more complicated than I had hoped.


 
  Indeed and for what it's worth I just left it alone as I could use those funds for the other stuff I've got on the bench.
   
  EDIT:
   
  Dear lord, discovered the secrets of my gamma pro's, it sounds so good with jazz music, rich textured creamy mids.


----------



## GL1TCH3D

Just chiming in after my purchase of the Sr007mk2 
Also picked up an SRM1MK2 from another member which I'm waiting to receive.
At the moment my budget for an amp/dac is quite limited and I'm not really going for a bhse anytime soon xP
I'm probably going to build myself a kgsshv but have no idea what to go for in terms of dacs


----------



## 3X0

Aren't the SR-007s supposed to be power-hungry monsters that gobble up every bit of juice you can give them?

I don't think it's worth stressing about the DAC if it has the I/O and functionality (e. g. high-res playback) that you require.


----------



## davidsh

Which Stax is the most inefficient, how much voltage can the different models handle?


----------



## 3X0

While we're at it, what's bias voltage anyway?


----------



## davidsh

The voltage the diaphragm is charged with AFAIK


----------



## Chris J

davidsh said:


> The voltage the diaphragm is charged with AFAIK




Right, it's the voltage the diaphragm is charged with, or energized with.

The diaphragm needs a few hundred volts DC on it before you can apply a signal to it.
Electrostatic loudspeakers work on the Electric Field principle, unlike other louspeakers, they do not operate via a magnetic field.

You think of the DC charge as taking the place of a magnet!


----------



## DefQon

The Omega's and Omega II's are the two I know that need gobs of power to shine.


----------



## spritzer

Max voltage into any Stax PRO driver is ca. 1200V p-p.  This is very, very loud so you could never reach that level with them on your head.  The Normal bias models top out at around 500V p-p which is why so many of them suffer from arc damage.  Stax did build in protection on the later units but it's not quick enough. 
   
  Now the keen observer might notice that many amps can indeed swing more voltage than this so they could damage the transducers.  We have amp designs finalized which swing nearly double that Pro limit which raises a question some hapless manufacturers (or would that be clueless) have asked, who could use all that volume?  Nobody but it's all about the headroom on tap so that the amp never, ever comes close to the limits of its operation where they are all inherently non-linear.  One of the reasons why the T2/BHSE should not even be remotely classed with the WES/Electra for instance. 
   
  That brings us to the point of some transducers needing more power than some other one.  The SR-007 is notorious for this but it's not voltage they need, but current.  This is a gross oversimplification of what is going on though as they just need certain characteristics from the amplifier.  Get that right and they can work well even from budget amps. 
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> While we're at it, what's bias voltage anyway?


 
   
  Sets the potential of the drivers so it is effectively sets the sensitivity of the system.  This plays into the diaphragm/stator distance which is crucial as the electrostatic force falls with the square of the distance.  Increase the bias and the drivers will get louder for the given input voltage but this also means the air inside the driver has to be able to provide enough insulation for the system not to arc and burn up.


----------



## davidsh

Thank you Spritzer. I do have more questions, though. If you don't mind me bothering you, how does increased/decreased bias voltage and increased/ decreased distance between stator and diaphragm affect effectivity, sensitivity and max spl along with other factors? It seems to me that the driver only can be destroyed/damaged by touching the stators, thereby shorting and arcing?


----------



## SoupRKnowva

davidsh said:


> Thank you Spritzer. I do have more questions, though. If you don't mind me bothering you, how does increased/decreased bias voltage and increased/ decreased distance between stator and diaphragm affect effectivity, sensitivity and max spl along with other factors? It seems to me that the driver only can be destroyed/damaged by touching the stators, thereby shorting and arcing?




The strength of an electrostatic force is relative to the amount of charge present. So more charge on the diaphragm at the same distance will increase the electrostatic force.

As for the max spl and arcing. Increasing the charge on the diaphragm will also make it easier for the signal being applied to the stator to short across the insulator(the air gap) therefor causing arcing easier. 

Hope that helps


----------



## reiserFS

Much appreciated. Would you say that the SRM-1/MK2 with the Lambda Pro is a better combination than the SRM-300/SR-202 combo? I mean the SRM-300 looks sexy, but how does the sound compare? Perhaps someone else could chime in and share some opinions?
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Probably the same thing.
> 
> 
> SRM-300 / SRM-310 2003 350V 1x RCA 2x Pro Bias, RCA Loop Out Solid state, styled as an earspeaker stand


----------



## DefQon

reiserfs said:


> Much appreciated. Would you say that the SRM-1/MK2 with the Lambda Pro is a better combination than the SRM-300/SR-202 combo? I mean the SRM-300 looks sexy, but how does the sound compare? Perhaps someone else could chime in and share some opinions?


The former is better.


----------



## miceblue

"miceblue joins the battle!"
 I just ordered a SRS-2170 from Japan. This is the first STAX system I've owned but I live in America. Do you guys have a recommended transformer to use with the SRM-252S for an American?
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## davidsh

Aren't there any distributor in US? Or did you just order it cheaper from Japan? 
Congratulations with your purchase


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Aren't there any distributor in US? Or did you just order it cheaper from Japan?
> Congratulations with your purchase


 
  It was cheaper to order it from an eBay seller who sells from Japan. Shipping was free and I had a 10% off eBay coupon so I decided to go for it.
   
  I prefer to buy new, so I saved ~$300 USD this way. I won't get the 1-year manufacturer's warranty, but I think I can take care of the set.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> "miceblue joins the battle!"
> I just ordered a SRS-2170 from Japan. This is the first STAX system I've owned but I live in America. Do you guys have a recommended transformer to use with the SRM-252S for an American?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 
   
  Been answered a few times in the last week or so in this thread - have a quick search and you should find it (unless the people who purchased one chime in...)
   
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Aren't there any distributor in US? Or did you just order it cheaper from Japan?
> Congratulations with your purchase


 
   
  If it's anything like Australia it'd be like a third of the price buying from Japan.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> The Omega's and Omega II's are the two I know that need gobs of power to shine.


 
   
  I'd add the sigmas - their really greedy and power hungry.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> "miceblue joins the battle!"
> I just ordered a SRS-2170 from Japan. This is the first STAX system I've owned but I live in America. Do you guys have a recommended transformer to use with the SRM-252S for an American?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 
  Ask mechy. 
   
  @jjinh: You're right, how can I forget the Sigma Pro's, they do require some extra power to the rear end to sound decent.


----------



## GL1TCH3D

So people are mentioning that 007mk2 is very power hungry. Is the srm1mk2 not enough? Planning on building a kgsshv later. Still looking for dacs xD


----------



## 3X0

gl1tch3d said:


> So people are mentioning that 007mk2 is very power hungry. Is the srm1mk2 not enough? Planning on building a kgsshv later. Still looking for dacs xD


For clarity, is your SRM-1 MK2 one with two normal bias outputs or does it have at least one Pro bias output? I assume and hope the latter.

I don't see why you would need a DAC of "greater" than, say, the ODAC's caliber. I emphasize the quotes since you're not really going to get definitively "better", so you might as well buy whatever strikes your fancy with regards to budget, aesthetics, inputs/outputs, and features that measures well.


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





gl1tch3d said:


> So people are mentioning that 007mk2 is very power hungry. Is the srm1mk2 not enough? Planning on building a kgsshv later. Still looking for dacs xD


 
  What dac are you using now? Of course it also depends on your budget for a dac.


----------



## GL1TCH3D

3x0 said:


> gl1tch3d said:
> 
> 
> > So people are mentioning that 007mk2 is very power hungry. Is the srm1mk2 not enough? Planning on building a kgsshv later. Still looking for dacs xD
> ...




Yea, it's a version with pro bias.
I'm going out to buy a parasound 1500 because I did enjoy it when I heard it last.
And frankly the ODAC was too dry and harsh for me. I liked the CLAS (original) but with lack of inputs, it made it really useless for me.


----------



## shipsupt

Good solid DAC that 1500.  The only "downside" is that it doesn't accept more of the hi resolution files that are popular now.


----------



## 3X0

shipsupt said:


> Good solid DAC that 1500.  The only "downside" is that it doesn't accept more of the hi resolution files that are popular now.



Indeed. No need for 24-bit support if you only play Redbook, though.


----------



## davidsh

Is it possible I can reuse my leather pads on my lambda sig's? Earlier someone mentioned I need some new adhesive if I am going to move the pads or something like that. How would I go about it?
   
  Also, can anyone tell me which pads I have (they are 100% black, not original pads)?


----------



## autoteleology

I believe that the back of my 507 pads are covered in rubber cement or something similar, and that seems to work well. I can remove them and stick them back on with no problems.


----------



## davidsh

Are mine pleather or leather pads, do you know? I think they must be pleather, though I'm not sure. Also, on the back of my pads, there is only (p)leather.
   
  Do you think the displacement of my pads affect sound quality?


----------



## GL1TCH3D

shipsupt said:


> Good solid DAC that 1500.  The only "downside" is that it doesn't accept more of the hi resolution files that are popular now.




I don't listen to any super hires files regardless. I think I'll be okay xD


----------



## EveTan

If Lambda Sig/Basic/Pro have good pads that are thicker and better than the current ones. Would it work to strip a nonworking Lambda of its pads, and reapply some fixative to stick it on a, for example, 202?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Are mine pleather or leather pads, do you know? I think they must be pleather, though I'm not sure. Also, on the back of my pads, there is only (p)leather.
> 
> Do you think the displacement of my pads affect sound quality?


 
  Only the SR-507 and SR-404 Limited Edition come with genuine leather pads. All the other Lambda's are all pleather. All Lambda pads are interchangeable with each every Lambda model from the original 30 year old Lambda to the current SR-507. You can use double side 3M tape to fix it onto the mounting plate. I recommend to clean up any messy/sticky left over residue from the previous adhesive.
   
  Pads can make a difference to sound due to seal, isolation and comfort.
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> If Lambda Sig/Basic/Pro have good pads that are thicker and better than the current ones. Would it work to strip a nonworking Lambda of its pads, and reapply some fixative to stick it on a, for example, 202?


 
  If you can find some spare or rip off the older pads to fit it onto the 202. Early serial number based 202's came with the thicker pads such as my current 202's. The older thicker pads were discontinued over a decade ago and no distributor stock them. The downside with some of the older pads is the inner memory foam of the pad is squished sometimes.


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> "miceblue joins the battle!"
> 
> I just ordered a SRS-2170 from Japan. This is the first STAX system I've owned but I live in America. Do you guys have a recommended transformer to use with the SRM-252S for an American?
> 
> Thanks in advance.




Hey, that's great!
I just ordered the SRS-2170 myself from Elusive Disc, they were running a 10% off sale this week. 
I should be getting it next week.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Only the SR-507 and SR-404 Limited Edition come with genuine leather pads. All the other Lambda's are all pleather. All Lambda pads are interchangeable with each every Lambda model from the original 30 year old Lambda to the current SR-507. You can use double side 3M tape to fix it onto the mounting plate. I recommend to clean up any messy/sticky left over residue from the previous adhesive.
> 
> Pads can make a difference to sound due to seal, isolation and comfort.
> 
> If you can find some spare or rip off the older pads to fit it onto the 202. Early serial number based 202's came with the thicker pads such as my current 202's. The older thicker pads were discontinued over a decade ago and no distributor stock them. The downside with some of the older pads is the inner memory foam of the pad is squished sometimes.


 
  Do you have pictures comparing the thickness of the thicker vs newer pads?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Do you have pictures comparing the thickness of the thicker vs newer pads?


 
  I can take pictures of the pads itself on the Lambda's but not going to rip it off. Gimme a sec..


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I can take pictures of the pads itself on the Lambda's but not going to rip it off. Gimme a sec..


 
  Haha of course, of course.
   
  There's a defective Lambda Sig on the for sales right now. And I was wondering how (if the seller lets me buy the pad parts) I'd attach them to my incoming 202, seeing that I'd need more adhesive.


----------



## DefQon

Scotch double side tape, 3M double side tape all work fine. 
   
  Hmm seem's that  I do have some left pads.
   
  Here's pics.

   

   
  It is not noticeable but it is once you wear it. On the left hand side is the newer 202 pads and same material used for the modern line as well. It is softer and thinner by a bit. The right hand side with the white paper is the older 202 pads (same as the vintage lineup). The foam used is more dense so once you put the earspeakers on your head your ears don't touch the mesh of the drivers unlike the newer softer pads that squish inwards.


----------



## jjinh

About the SR-202s, earlier models had thicker pads with open cell foam. Pads on later models were slightly thinner and made of a harder material that I find less comfortable. They also included an inner cloth lining.
   
  I'd say they changed the included pads before serial no. SB1-4000 but of course I do not know the exact number.


----------



## wink

Had a listen to my SR202's and Johnwmclean's 007Mk1's on his BHSE last night.
   
  Heck, even the 202's sounded great on the amp...... The 007's were sublime - as usual...


----------



## DefQon

Can't wait till I receive my Kgss boards off John. Build meself a Kevin Gilmore super sexy high voltage amplifier.


----------



## spritzer

The BH does have that effect on pretty much any electrostatic.


----------



## reiserFS

I'd pull the trigger on a BHSE myself if the lead time wouldn't be so long


----------



## DefQon

reiserfs said:


> I'd pull the trigger on a BHSE myself if the lead time wouldn't be so long




True.


----------



## wink

Do it anyway......


----------



## shipsupt

If I am not mistaken there are still spots left in the current run, so the wait would be much shorter! http://www.head-fi.org/t/439657/headamp-blue-hawaii-special-edition/3540#post_9546938
   
  What are you waiting for?


----------



## DefQon

If I had a tree that would grow me green bills, I'd surely buy a BHSE. But yet again I'd buy other stuff than an amp.


----------



## SBranson

Is the SR-507 significantly better than the SR-404LE with an SRM-006t?  I have the latter pair and find the 404le's a little closed in.  Still very nice but not quite as etherial as I remember with my earlier Stax set-up.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Is the SR-507 significantly better than the SR-404LE with an SRM-006t?  I have the latter pair and find the 404le's a little closed in.  Still very nice but not quite as etherial as I remember with my earlier Stax set-up.


 
  I haven't heard an SR-404LE but have so with the SR-507 which I consider a downgrade to many of the previous Lambda models. The SRM-006t amp is also not anything special to write home about.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Can't wait till I receive my Kgss boards off John. Build meself a Kevin Gilmore super sexy high voltage amplifier.


 
  Hope you're well versed working with HV.
  Be careful. That sheet can stop yer heart!


----------



## SBranson

Great news..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I had the Lambda Signatures with a T1 and found them very musical and satisfying with chamber music and vocals but wanted a little more clarity and extension and got the 507s.  Found them better in both regards but kind of cold and uninviting; a little too "audiophile" sounding.   Sold them all and 7 months later I'm back with Stax with the 404/006t.  I had a chance to get the 323s but it was another $300 and so out of my price range.  I just wondered if the 507s would give me more air and a less "in the head" experience but have the 006t make them less cold than I remembered.
  I'm thinking I stay at this and save up for a 323s/007 in a year or so.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Great news..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That is not possible with headphones, it will always be in your head. Closest thing to outside your head would be the K1000 or perhaps the Sigmas.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Great news..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I think you should have kept the T1. It is a very decent and simple amp. Does what it is supposed to do. It is basically same layout as the 006t, but I guess you know that.
  Sooo, which of the models do you actually like the best? The thing I miss with the Sig is a bit better soundstage.
   
  But personally I have no intention to upgrade to newer Stax models, since I doubt I would be more happy with those, and they are more expensive too while not maintaining their value as well as the old stuff.
   
  Recently heard the 307 on the 323s. Too cold-ish for my taste, but very nice sound indeed. It was only a brief audition, though.
   
  On another note I am pretty annoyed by my pads slowly sliding more and more backwards on the frame of my sig's


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> That is not possible with headphones, it will always be in your head. Closest thing to outside your head would be the K1000 or perhaps the Sigmas.


 

 I guess the headstage would be something like 'in front of your head'?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I guess the headstage would be something like 'in front of your head'?


 

 If you focus closely to your sound stage, you will notice most of the center stage is actually located "above" your head or around your brow area. This is apparent because in the recording process of the majority of records they are specifically made for speaker reproduction in mind.


----------



## spritzer

What would be the fun in getting the best amp money can buy right away?  Waiting is half the fun... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
   
  I think it's good to spend a lazy Sunday morning to design the smallest complete Stax amp I can come up with.


----------



## wink

Quote:spritzer 





> What would be the fun in getting the best amp money can buy right away?  Waiting is half the fun...


 
  You need to smell the roses and stinkweed along the path to your own private nirvana.
   
  How can you tell how good your system is unless you know how rotten, mediocre, boring, and dismal the others are?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Hope you're well versed working with HV.
> Be careful. That sheet can stop yer heart!


 
  It will be a long wait time till I even start building the KGSSHV, got other stuff on the bench that I want to finish. Johns deal with 2 off board pcb's and a partially populated PSU pcb was too hard to pass up, but who knows I might end up with a BHSE or any other new stat amp by the time I even touch the KGSSHV.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> If you focus closely to your sound stage, you will notice most of the center stage is actually located "above" your head or around your brow area. This is apparent because in the recording process of the majority of records they are specifically made for speaker reproduction in mind.


 

 AFAIK many think a tall standing soundstage is a good thing. It kinda makes for a feel that the vocalist is standing in front of you (with speakers), and can also be fairly impressive with headphones. What I like about the Stax headphones I have heard is that you can pinpoint where in your head the different instruments come from with a good recording.


----------



## BoogieWoogie

How much is the T.1 and LNS worth ?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





boogiewoogie said:


> How much is the T.1 worth ?


 

 400-600$ AFAIK. It highly depends on whether the amp is in good condition. I think the price is quite high thinking about how old it is.


----------



## DefQon

That figure is quite high. T1 350-500. LNS 400-550.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> AFAIK many think a tall standing soundstage is a good thing. It kinda makes for a feel that the vocalist is standing in front of you (with speakers), and can also be fairly impressive with headphones. What I like about the Stax headphones I have heard is that you can pinpoint where in your head the different instruments come from with a good recording.


 

 Yes, Stax headphones are great in this regard, from the electrets to the most expensive SR-009. Dynamics are the ones IMO that have problems with this when compared to planars because of the flaws in the inherent moving coil design.


----------



## 3X0

I haven't seen the T1 sell for less than $400 in years, even in crappy shape.


----------



## davidsh

How does the LNS and LS actually compare?


----------



## reiserFS

My bank account does not like this.
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> If I am not mistaken there are still spots left in the current run, so the wait would be much shorter! http://www.head-fi.org/t/439657/headamp-blue-hawaii-special-edition/3540#post_9546938
> 
> What are you waiting for?


 
   
   
  I can't speak for the LS, but I've owned a LNS and felt that it has warmer signature compared to SR-202/SR-303.
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> How does the LNS and LS actually compare?


----------



## SBranson

dukeskd said:


> That is not possible with headphones, it will always be in your head. Closest thing to outside your head would be the K1000 or perhaps the Sigmas.


 
  Okay, I know it's in the head and I guess maybe it's better described as a sense of a very large head or that the room inside the head is very large with sounds coming from the seeming distance.
  The 404le seems like I am right in the midst of the recording and I think I remember the 507s having more of a sense of being a little further back, in the place of the audience.
  Again, this could always be due to mic'ing of the recording and other factors but I think we all know what I mean.
  I am biased towards a speaker presentation as that is what I have had most of the time so that sense of space is important.  I know others prefer the close in feeling.
   
  To answer davidsh, I think I liked the Signatures the most but only on some very specific music.  They were so "sweet" sounding but had definite flaws in certain frequencies.  On the right recording though they were a treat.  The 507s "fixed" the flaws but were less engaging.  I had a brief fling with some Senn HD800s and was initially wowed by them but realized that I was listening to  parts of the music and not hearing "the forest for the trees" as it were.  That's what I mean by "audiophile" sound.


----------



## davidsh

I just removed on pad of my LS. I found a small dent in the grill, nothing to worry about. But I also found the plastic covering the drive to be slightly punctured at 3 different places. What'd ya say to that?
  I didn't bother to remove the gooey stuff for now, just put on some double adhesive onto the pads.
   
  EDIT: It's pretty much teh same with the other driver.


----------



## EveTan

These are 404 LE Pads right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-Earpads-for-SR-404-LIMITED-Ear-Pads-Free-Ship-New-/281130993482?pt=US_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4174b6874a
   
  How would that compare with the 507 pads? They both seem to be made out of leather.


----------



## miceblue

I thought DefQon said the new pads are super squishy a la M-100 and the older ones are stiffer.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I thought DefQon said the new pads are super squishy a la M-100 and the older ones are stiffer.


 
  Yea, but leather is still > when compared to pleather, which is what the 20XX models are made of.


----------



## DefQon

Can't say I've tried the 404 le pads but my ears was still touching the mesh with the 507 pads and had hot ears from it. The seal was great though but the comfort for me was not.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I just removed on pad of my LS. I found a small dent in the grill, nothing to worry about. But I also found the plastic covering the drive to be slightly punctured at 3 different places. What'd ya say to that?
> I didn't bother to remove the gooey stuff for now, just put on some double adhesive onto the pads.
> 
> EDIT: It's pretty much teh same with the other driver.


 
  Should I be worried? 
   
  Seems I'm not in luck today  My headband just snapped, have to glue it back together tomorrow.


----------



## DefQon

davidsh said:


> Should I be worried?
> 
> Seems I'm not in luck today  My headband just snapped, have to glue it back together tomorrow.




 Ouch.

 That film behind the mesh guard is a dust filter to prevent moisture and dust getting in.


----------



## davidsh

I doubt the film will give me problems, though. But the risk of driver failure probably increases.


----------



## DefQon

Also if the punctured holes get bigger overtime you're going to get squealing out of the drivers when playing music.

 Theres two ways of fixing it:
 Use some sort of foam or mesh cover that come with the newer earpads.

Take the driver apart and re-layer the dust protector with a new pvc film from those food wrap bags. Based on spritzers recommendation don't make it drum tight.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Also if the punctured holes get bigger overtime you're going to get squealing out of the drivers when playing music.
> 
> Theres two ways of fixing it:
> Use some sort of foam or mesh cover that come with the newer earpads.
> ...


 

 Thanks a lot!


----------



## telecaster

Got my srs002 yesterday. Pretty impressive out of the box soundwise, but confort is lacking with medium stax tips and headband. Removing the band made them really light and confortable but bass is lacking. After endless fidling, best combinaison was  sony silicon tips with headband slightly loosen up. But the openning of those tips are too small and made the sound medium boosted. Found another sony tips with wide opening like the stax ones, and bingo, great sound and great comfort with the headband. Bass is thunderous and clean, very deep. Puts the HD650 to shame. But the treble is shaved off. Will see if it improves over time.


----------



## DefQon

Yeh treble is recessed on the baby Stax's.
   
  Did you cut the Sony tip to fit it in or?


----------



## EveTan

Ok, got a deal on some vintage Lambda pads, in ok condition. 
   
  As you said before, it's as simple as putting double sided tape on the back of the pads, cleaning the residue from the previous pads, and then sticking them on?


----------



## DefQon

Yes, it is that simple you wouldn't want to super glue them on would you?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yes, it is that simple you wouldn't want to super glue them on would you?


 
  Are the pads and filters separate? I'm just taping pads on right? I always see the pads sold with the filters, so I thought they might be connected or something. 
   
  Oh and all vintage Lambdas are made of real leather right?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Are the pads and filters separate? I'm just taping pads on right? I always see the pads sold with the filters, so I thought they might be connected or something.
> 
> Oh and all vintage Lambdas are made of real leather right?


 
  1. Filters are separate. Older pads came with foam sewed to the inner linen of the pad where adhesive sticks on. Since the foam deteriorates Stax updated there pads to come with a separate cloth/mesh filter that goes over the top of the driver mesh.
   
  2. No, as I said all Lambda seriesl pads are pleather except the SR-404 LE and SR-507 which are the only two Lambda earspeakers to ever use genuine leather earpads.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> 2. No, as I said all Lambda seriesl pads are pleather except the SR-404 LE and SR-507 which are the only two Lambda earspeakers to ever use genuine leather earpads.


 
  The older lambda style should be more comfortable for me because of its thickness. 
   
  Now to consider if I want a 507 pad too... hmm...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> The older lambda style should be more comfortable for me because of its thickness.
> 
> Now to consider if I want a 507 pad too... hmm...


 
   Yes. The newer pads cause my ears to heat up too much as they squish inwards with the seal. The same with the leather 507 pads.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yes. The newer pads cause my ears to heat up too much as they squish inwards with the seal. The same with the leather 507 pads.


 
  Do the old pads still cause your ears to touch the drivers?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Do the old pads still cause your ears to touch the drivers?


 
  Nope. Despite them retaining that vintage pleather look to them like all other late 70's/early 80's headphone earpads, I vastly prefer function over aesthetics in this situation to gain that extra comfort.


----------



## EveTan

defqon said:


> Nope. Despite them retaining that vintage pleather look to them like all other late 70's/early 80's headphone earpads, I vastly prefer function over aesthetics in this situation to gain that extra comfort.





Is the reason for this added comfort the added depth/less sinkage?


My friend owns both and he felt that the 507s were airy-er more breathable. 
Leather by itself should be better feeling to the touch right? Pleather results in kind of a sticky feeling when exposed to heat.

Slightly confused why you would prefer the vintage pads.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Is the reason for this added comfort the added depth/less sinkage?
> 
> 
> My friend owns both and he felt that the 507s were airy-er more breathable.
> ...


 
  I'm guessing it's due to the denser foam used in the vintage pads that gives them that hard, thick seal it sits around your ears. I can only say for myself and there are other's who prefer the older pads to the newer ones for comfort. You need to try it out yourself.


----------



## miceblue

XD this is like the 3rd time you've said this. Lol


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> XD this is like the 3rd time you've said this. Lol


 
  Unfortunately Evetan keeps asking.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Unfortunately Evetan keeps asking.


 
  Sorry, XD I tend to write in a train of thought mentality, where my thought wanders back and forth over a single topic.


----------



## DefQon

Yeh ok. Just get both pads and decide which is better for you.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> How does the LNS and LS actually compare?


 

 I found little difference between the LNS and LS. I find the LNS a little warm sounding,particularly with the T1, but if your system tends to be bright sounding, the combination will work extremely well, IMHO. I also have 507's and they are less sweet in the midrange than the LNS but are a little more open in terms of soundstage and the bass is a little better controlled. Your ears will tell you what sounds right for you.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





squirec said:


> I found little difference between the LNS and LS. I find the LNS a little warm sounding,particularly with the T1, but if your system tends to be bright sounding, the combination will work extremely well, IMHO. I also have 507's and they are less sweet in the midrange than the LNS but are a little more open in terms of soundstage and the bass is a little better controlled. Your ears will tell you what sounds right for you.


 
  Thank you! I've only got few complaints wuth my sig's, though.


----------



## milosz

I am so spoiled by electrostatic 'phones I am now considering selling all my dynamic and planar headphones and amps except maybe for one pair of Beyer 880's to use as utility 'phones / spares etc.  Hate to do it, I've acquired a lot of gear and built shelves to store it...  but  I just don't feel much like listening to anything except my 'stats anymore.


----------



## DefQon

Sell everything off except the 2's, 800's and the Stax. Good variety.


----------



## rgs9200m

Nice setup, but I'd be nervous about having all those perched on a shelf on the wall.
  (Paranoia strikes deep...)


----------



## rawrster

Nice. One amp per headphone


----------



## davidsh

I am considering a sr404 headband for my sig. It says Lambda signature on top  
Which headband is the most comfortable, how's the sr-404 headband?


----------



## chinsettawong

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I am so spoiled by electrostatic 'phones I am now considering selling all my dynamic and planar headphones and amps except maybe for one pair of Beyer 880's to use as utility 'phones / spares etc.  Hate to do it, I've acquired a lot of gear and built shelves to store it...  but  I just don't feel much like listening to anything except my 'stats anymore.


 
   
  That's the way to go!


----------



## ALSO

Quote: 





milosz said:


> I am so spoiled by electrostatic 'phones I am now considering selling all my dynamic and planar headphones and amps except maybe for one pair of Beyer 880's to use as utility 'phones / spares etc.  Hate to do it, I've acquired a lot of gear and built shelves to store it...  but  I just don't feel much like listening to anything except my 'stats anymore.


 
  I know this feeling, but I was much earlier in the game than you.  Still it felt good to shed and focus.  I ended up adding a closed phone for courtesy, and some IEMS for mobility, but basically after I heard the 404LEs, I had to stay with STAX.


----------



## telecaster

It's a shame because it's a wicked shelf.. But selling unused stuff is the best move, and keeping your stax won't keep you sad for long.


----------



## shipsupt

I ended up going the same route and selling off most of my dynamics as the stat collection grew... much larger than I expected I might add.  
   
  It's funny, I just realized that I sold my last balanced headphone when I finished building a balanced amp!


----------



## davidsh

Just glued my headband together with something called Pattex PL-300, which I was recommended over the loc-tite stuff. I do have some slight doubts on whether it actually is good enough.


----------



## miceblue

With all of your guys' talk of using glue and tape to fix things, you make it sound like the Stax are made of cardboard or something. Lol

DIY Stax. XD


----------



## davidsh

They are fragile. I think so...


----------



## reiserFS

So I was bidding on this SRM-300/SR-202 combo when suddenly the auction disappeared to nowhere. Dang, really wanted to hear the SRM-300.


----------



## astrostar59

Yeah, I moved from Dynamics to Stax at least 15 years ago. I even had a pair of the Pioneer Electret phones from the 80s.
   
  I started with Lamda normal, then Lamda Pro, then Lamda Nova Signature, then more recently SR-007s 2.5s.
   
  I love the sound I am getting right now, with Audio Note DAC 3.1 NOS tubed unit and Audio Note M3 tubed pre into a Stax SRM-717.
   
  My front end changed recently as well, from CEC TL51 transport to Mac Mini into M2Tech EVO full stack, remote via iPad mini and Screens.
   
  Jeeze, all that to replace spinning discs! But it sound much better, and I have instant access to my whole library,cool.
   
  Stax are really great. My gripe would be they are fragile. The frame are not so strong, the dust issues, the damp issues, the Stax amp gets real hot. And the phones are not cheap. But they are the best, so unless another manufacturer comes up with the same sound in a more robust product, I am staying with Stax.


----------



## DefQon

davidsh said:


> I am considering a sr404 headband for my sig. It says Lambda signature on top
> Which headband is the most comfortable, how's the sr-404 headband?




All the same unless you're bald.




astrostar59 said:


> Stax are really great. My gripe would be they are fragile. The frame are not so strong, the dust issues, the damp issues, the Stax amp gets real hot. And the phones are not cheap. But they are the best, so unless another manufacturer comes up with the same sound in a more robust product, I am staying with Stax.




 I find them to be very durable unless you drop them or don't take care of them, I mean it's rare too see anything other headphones still in one working piece having a 30+ year trip till now and still work.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I am considering a sr404 headband for my sig. It says Lambda signature on top
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  The SR-404 arc assembly won't fit your Lambda Sig model unless you remove the pin receptacle inserts that interface the driver cases and pins on the ear case holders of the arc assembly. The 404 pins have wider diameter plastic pins compared with the smaller diameter Lambda Sig pins. Also, the clamping pressure is increased with the new (from the Nove Series onwards) arc assemblies. Personally, I prefer the arc assembly of the earlier models. Leave your Lambda Sig as it is!


----------



## ckeyler

Quote: 





chinsettawong said:


> That's the way to go!


----------



## jjinh

1. @milosz - dont your headphones get dusty (or at least the ones you dont use often)?
   
  2. the frames of the lambda-series seem to be getting less and less flexible (and maybe less durable?) but they seem to last a long time. I dont throw my headphones around or step on them and I dont have a ginormous head so no broken arcs yet.


----------



## autoteleology

Are there any recorded attempts of someone modding a Sigma other than the typical 404 driver replacement? I think it'd be real interesting if someone slapped in some Orpheus drivers.


----------



## Nemeske88

Yesterday, I had my Lambda NB to take a bath, I mean only the arch section as it is become a bit sqeezed at the turning point. I had the arch disassembled and cleaned thoroughly with a Dove soap in a tub. After drying the parts, and to finish the procedure something got my attention that almost gave me a heart attack. It's colour became grey instead of black. Desperate mood I've applied some silicone grease on it; the same grease that I'm using on the moving parts of my bike and wanted to use in the turing points. Luckily, it's managed to solve this problem: it's now black again, and somehow it is more supple as I feel. The sqeezeing is also disappeared. Hope, it won't snap soon...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Are there any recorded attempts of someone modding a Sigma other than the typical 404 driver replacement? I think it'd be real interesting if someone slapped in some Orpheus drivers.


 
  Spritzer has done something similar of the reverse to this. But why the hell would you even want to slap an Orpheus driver in a Sigma shell, you'd need need new mounting plates to support the shape of the HE90 drivers. From what I asked spritzer while ago, an HE90 driver is $4k +.


----------



## autoteleology

If you've got the financial resources and know-how to have a pair of Orpheus drivers on hand in the first place, I would think the last of your problems would be a mounting plate.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> If you've got the financial resources and know-how to have a pair of Orpheus drivers on hand in the first place, I would think the last of your problems would be a mounting plate.


 

 That's like saying a guy who owns a Ferrari Moranello with a spare engine can place the engine in a Viper.


----------



## davidsh

john buchanan said:


> The SR-404 arc assembly won't fit your Lambda Sig model unless you remove the pin receptacle inserts that interface the driver cases and pins on the ear case holders of the arc assembly. The 404 pins have wider diameter plastic pins compared with the smaller diameter Lambda Sig pins. Also, the clamping pressure is increased with the new (from the Nove Series onwards) arc assemblies. Personally, I prefer the arc assembly of the earlier models. Leave your Lambda Sig as it is!



Thank you. I will patch it up with some glue, then.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> That's like saying a guy who owns a Ferrari Moranello with a spare engine can place the engine in a Viper.


 
  Yeah it's like me fitting a V12 engine from a Veyron into a Toyota Yaris. Defeat's the purpose and will impact the performance greatly because it wasn't designed for it in the first place.


----------



## anetode

Round peg, square hole. You might make it fit but you're still doing it wrong.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> It's funny, I just realized that I sold my last balanced headphone when I finished building a balanced amp!


 
   
  Ha, yeah, it's not hard for stuff like that to happen.  I was digging through some storage boxes the other day and realized I somehow have all the parts except the chassis to build another "3-channel"  Beta 22.


----------



## nemomec

hello,
   
  i have a Stax SRM-313 and i was wondering with the different layout of this amp from pictures in the net 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It´s a european version mit 2 Pro outputs from 2006 and it sound very well.
   
  The pcb looks like the 323II, but the gain is higher same volume control position like my SRM-T1 (60 dB).
   
  There are different versions of this amp?
   

   
  vs


----------



## rawrster

I was wondering if anyone knew how a SRM 717 compares to the KGSSHV?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> hello,
> 
> i have a Stax SRM-313 and i was wondering with the different layout of this amp from pictures in the net
> 
> ...


 
   
  That's a 323A PCB there or at least a version of it so they clearly made some 313's that was they ran out of the dual input fets.


----------



## davidsh

Finally got glued that arc together, had to bring out the heavy stuff and poison myself with 2 component epoxy. That stuff is very, very nasty, but it seems to hold up!


----------



## MDR30

davidsh said:


> Finally got glued that arc together, had to bring out the heavy stuff and poison myself with 2 component epoxy. That stuff is very, very nasty, but it seems to hold up!




Pic please, when it happens to the rest of us.


----------



## K_19

Question about the 2170 system, or rather more so the 252 amp;
   
  My friend is interested in purchasing this system as he wants to give E-stats a try, but as you know in NA the prices are high and it's much cheaper to get from Japan (which he can arrange for to get). The problem is with the voltage of the 252 amp. Is the power supply internal on these? They do look really small so I'm not sure whether they do, I'm thinking they may come with a wall wart instead, but can't be sure as I've never seen it.  If it's internal, is a simple mod possible to convert the voltage from 100v to 120v (I've done it on my old 717 before which was easy), or if it is external, possible to get a separate wall wart for them?  He does have a Japanese voltage transformer, but would rather not use it if possible.


----------



## DefQon

It's been said here before just buy an American 12v 1amp wallwart with the correct tip and you're good to go. The PS is external so there is nothing to mod inside.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> It's been said here before just buy an American 12v 1amp wallwart with the correct tip and you're good to go. The PS is external so there is nothing to mod inside.


 
  Is it ok to just use it directly without the wallwart? I know that's what Mechgamer is doing with his 2020.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Is it ok to just use it directly without the wallwart? I know that's what Mechgamer is doing with his 2020.


 
  You need a wallwart adapter ps to power the basic Stax amp's. You can't run them off anything else. I haven't asked Mech lately about whether she bought a matching wallwart or using a step down trafo, but she is using either of the one. How are you going to power the 252 if you don't use an AC adaptor?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You need a wallwart adapter ps to power the basic Stax amp's. You can't run them off anything else. I haven't asked Mech lately about whether she bought a matching wallwart or using a step down trafo, but she is using either of the one. How are you going to power the 252 if you don't use an AC adaptor?


 
  Haha sorry. I meant is it possible to use without  the step down.


----------



## autoteleology

Voltage converter?


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  As per the suggestion of another member, I am in fact just using the 100v Japanese transformer that came with the Stax from Japan. The American transformer I bought makes a weird buzzing sound that I figured probably isn't good for the amp, so I quit using it and just use the transformer now.


----------



## DefQon

Since the mains will always fluctuate between 120-124v in the States, running the 100v Stax wallwart off 120v+ mains is not a good idea.


----------



## duncan1

If you used a "wall wart" that buzzed it is either 1 of 2 things-if analogue -mains transformer- then it is a cheaply made and bad design [lamination's vibrating]unless you have dropped it. -If it is digital-SMPS then its still a cheap make as you are hearing the switching frequency or a harmonic of it. If you value you hi-fi equipment -buy QUALITY-if you can afford it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> If you value you hi-fi equipment -buy QUALITY-if you can afford it.


 
  Can't disagree to this.


----------



## davidsh

Couldn't it jsut be that it isn't grounded or something?


----------



## DefQon

spritzer wasn't lying about 404 sig's sounding bit different to each other.


----------



## tumble

Hi, Stax-heads.

I'm looking for advice on custom in-ear monitors. The reason I'm posting in this thread is that I'm after something with a very analytical sound and a wide soundstage. What I really want is to get as close to the sound of a pair of full-size Staxs as possible in an CIEM. I realise I won't get all that close, but the closer the better.

They also have to have decent isolation. I mention that in case anyone's wondering why I don't go for Stax IEMs.

Maximum cost is US$700.

Looking at reviews elsewhere on head-fi, the main options at under $700 seem to be:

* Cosmic Ears BA2 - only $250, so this is my default choice - http://www.head-fi.org/t/626714/cosmic-ears-new-ciem-company-with-crazy-low-prices-including-hybrid-designs

* Fabs - http://www.head-fi.org/t/541494/multi-custom-in-ear-monitor-review-resource-mfg-list-discussion-26-reviews-um-pp6-added-3-12-13

* Heir 4.A - http://www.head-fi.org/t/620356/review-heir-audio-4-a

* Alclair Reference - http://www.head-fi.org/t/597308/alclair-reference-master-custom-iem-review

I'm hoping to get more opinions, especially since other reviews haven't tended to concentrate on analytical sound.

(Also, if anyone in Melbourne or Sydney could recommend an audiologist for taking the impressions that would be a lovely bonus.)

Thanks!

Jason


----------



## DefQon

Lots of good audiologist in the city and east area.


----------



## tumble

defqon said:


> Lots of good audiologist in the city and east area.




Great. I'm near the city.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Since the mains will always fluctuate between 120-124v in the States, running the 100v Stax wallwart off 120v+ mains is not a good idea.


 
   
  It's a good way of blowing up the amp as the components are run pretty close to their limits so feed it a higher input voltage and the linear switcher will run all of it out of spec. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> spritzer wasn't lying about 404 sig's sounding bit different to each other.


 
   
  Clearly two different drivers at play here.


----------



## mechgamer123

duncan1 said:


> If you used a "wall wart" that buzzed it is either 1 of 2 things-if analogue -mains transformer- then it is a cheaply made and bad design [lamination's vibrating]unless you have dropped it. -If it is digital-SMPS then its still a cheap make as you are hearing the switching frequency or a harmonic of it. If you value you hi-fi equipment -buy QUALITY-if you can afford it.



Wanna give me a link to the one you would use then? 
It is the amp itself buzzing, not the wall wart.



tumble said:


> Hi, Stax-heads.
> 
> I'm looking for advice on custom in-ear monitors. The reason I'm posting in this thread is that I'm after something with a very analytical sound and a wide soundstage. What I really want is to get as close to the sound of a pair of full-size Staxs as possible in an CIEM. I realise I won't get all that close, but the closer the better.
> 
> ...



I don't have much experience with CIEMs but I just heard the 4As yesterday and they do NOT fit the bill for what you're looking for.



davidsh said:


> Couldn't it jsut be that it isn't grounded or something?



But then why would only the American transformer make the amp squeal but not the Japanese one? Neither are grounded...


----------



## duncan1

Mechgamer you said the American transformer you bought makes a quote-"weird buzzing sound" I took that to be a wall wart?? . If you are saying its the amp that's buzzing that's a change to your original post?? Spritzer is absolutely right if you are using a 100 V Jap wall wart that s WORKING voltage is 100V and the US voltage is 124 V or more it will output a good bit over the standard voltage of a correct one. Old tube radios for export used different tapping's to accommodate different countries voltages. An "old trick" if all the tubes were of low emission was to  lower the tapping settings so that more voltage was applied to them[over voltage] NOT recommended normally] IE from say UK 240 V tapping reduced to 210V  so the regulators[if any] inside the equipment must be able to cope with that . Maybe so but what about the smoothing caps they wont live with overvoltage Also is the Japanese mains frequency -60HZ as is the US standard -the UK is 50HZ that would cause a buzzing.  ?


----------



## forbigger

@tumble : increase your budget to the level of JH13 or try look for an used one then reshell. Provided reshelling did not change the overall property of the CIEM, JH13 share some similarities with 007


----------



## telecaster

The 002 with some mild equalizer will get you most of the Stax sound, I'm pretty impressed by it and it fits your budget. I wasn't keen on buying it nor it's predecessor, but after having the 507 I knew I needed it. Reviews I read about it was not encouraging at all, but now I learn and more and more convinced to not listen to others and I can say that I'm impressed by it, great in the earspeaker system!
   
  Oh and before listenning to them I thought analytical sound was all about treble but it's not. I dug new sound layer in a disc I knew by heart with the 002 in a complex passage and I know now why the stax are so good at being analytical, it's not because of their treble alone, it's the entire range that benefits from the higher definition of the stats technology. The 002 are treble shy but still very analytical at seperating the layers in the mix and revealing the intricate sound information on the file.
   
  I never heard a full size dynamic that can do that with such natural feel to the sound and without coloration of some sort. The Balance armature is even worse than a full size dynamic for me in that reguard, I can't stand them now. Too much glare and distorsion. Must be the bad crossovers design inherent in this technology. YMMV
   
  The 002 are the best IEM i ever listen to.


----------



## reiserFS

Is it true that after a SRM-1/MK2 stands around for years without use it has to be send in to service (according to the description of the local seller the services boots the amp by slowly raising the volts)? I don't know, but I've never heard of that before for amps.
   
  The price is great though, 200€.


----------



## tumble

mechgamer123 said:


> I don't have much experience with CIEMs but I just heard the 4As yesterday and they do NOT fit the bill for what you're looking for.




Thanks.


----------



## tumble

forbigger said:


> @tumble : increase your budget to the level of JH13 or try look for an used one then reshell.




Thanks. In the long run I'll probably do that; but I'm still looking for some cheaper ones to try first.




telecaster said:


> The 002 with some mild equalizer will get you most of the Stax sound,




I believe you, but I already have Staxs! My question is what IEM I can get that has better isolation (and sounds as similar to my Staxs as possible given that constraint).

Jason


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> Mechgamer you said the American transformer you bought makes a quote-"weird buzzing sound" I took that to be a wall wart?? . If you are saying its the amp that's buzzing that's a change to your original post?? Spritzer is absolutely right if you are using a 100 V Jap wall wart that s WORKING voltage is 100V and the US voltage is 124 V or more it will output a good bit over the standard voltage of a correct one. Old tube radios for export used different tapping's to accommodate different countries voltages. An "old trick" if all the tubes were of low emission was to  lower the tapping settings so that more voltage was applied to them[over voltage] NOT recommended normally] IE from say UK 240 V tapping reduced to 210V  so the regulators[if any] inside the equipment must be able to cope with that . Maybe so but what about the smoothing caps they wont live with overvoltage Also is the Japanese mains frequency -60HZ as is the US standard -the UK is 50HZ that would cause a buzzing.  ?


 
  As far as I understand, US voltage varies between 115v and 120v, plus or minus a few volts. Both Japan and US both use 60hz for their power I believe...
  Edit: Here's the video. Pardon the terrible quality.
  The actual buzzing sound starts at around 0:58


----------



## kevin gilmore

That is the switcher inside the amp overloading.
  Stop using the 100V transformer on American voltages before
  you blow the thing up.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> That is the switcher inside the amp overloading.
> Stop using the 100V transformer on American voltages before
> you blow the thing up.


 
  The switcher is overloading with the 115v American transformer but not the 100v Japanese transformer?


----------



## miceblue

So can you guys list someone who sells a "high quality" American transformer or wall wart then?
   
  I hear a lot of talk about don't do X, buy Y, but Y has to be "high quality" and I have no idea where to look for a "high quality" Y. It would be more productive and useful if you just posted a specific product that does work. Just my two cents.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quick update: It seems my American transformer may be bad. I contacted Digikey and they are shipping me a new one tomorrow.
  Hopefully this will resolve the issue with the buzzing so I don't end up blowing myself up...


----------



## miceblue

So will this work?
  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/WSU120-0700-R/?qs=B4sXYbYweUrPvVq5%252bLxKcQ==
   
  100-240 V AC
  12 V DC
  0.7 A
  12 V * 0.7 A = 8.4 W > 4 W
  Negative Center
   
  Triad is the same brand I have for the Objective 2. Is this of high enough quality?
   
  The listed "ripple and noise max (mVp-p)" is 150. Is this bad?


----------



## DefQon

As it confirms what I originally said. That 12v wallwart is a dud one due to the humming.


----------



## mechgamer123

defqon said:


> As it confirms what I originally said. That 12v wallwart is a dud one due to the humming.



I'm still not totally sure that's the case. Why would the transformer make the amp hum, but not the transformer itself?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> I'm still not totally sure that's the case. Why would the transformer make the amp hum, but not the transformer itself?


 
  Correct me if I'm wrong, 120v wallwart + amp = buzz, 100v Stax wallwart + amp = no buzz?


----------



## kevin gilmore

From the video the 120v wall wart is obviously a switcher and a switcher driving a switcher
Usually causes trouble due to switching currents.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> So can you guys list someone who sells a "high quality" American transformer or wall wart then?


 
  A recommendation would be nice. What transformer do you guys use?


----------



## DefQon

My one is a Bando brand


----------



## duncan1

the ripple is 150MV P-P then you can half that  and take a bit off  and it will be around -50/60 MV rms. For 12V output its not exactly --"top of the range" I have built 80 W rms power amps under load with less ripple.I will check up on good "wall warts". Maybe somebody will advise before I find out. But as said above 2 switchers connected to each other can be bad news not every manufacturer has the same switching frequency imagine multiple harmonics interfering with the second switcher.as the coil and caps are there for a SET frequency coming from the original supply.IE-60 HZ.


----------



## duncan1

I found a US company that should give you a massive choice of wall warts that company is Jameco electronics.com. I think California but not sure. And they are reasonably priced  Its a well known company used by US electronic equipment builders.. Going by what was said in a previous post its 12 V at 0.700MA output . There are many to chose from buy one that is way OTT -IE- at least 1 amp or more 2 amps would be better . This will give you a power supply that isnt straining to output its designated voltage and current. . In other words DONT go for the  $10 shot -pay MORE for better build and component quality -$34 or so will get a good one.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Is it true that after a SRM-1/MK2 stands around for years without use it has to be send in to service (according to the description of the local seller the services boots the amp by slowly raising the volts)? I don't know, but I've never heard of that before for amps.
> 
> The price is great though, 200€.


 
   
  The caps dry out with time so one way of reconditioning them is to slowly ramp up the voltage they see.  Personally I'd just replace the lot as there are so few caps in the SRM-1 Mk2.


----------



## jcx

reforming only works if the caps haven't dried out - without electrolyte the ESR goes up (to the moon!)


----------



## rawrster

So I've been really enjoying the SR007 the last few weeks and haven't touched my HD800 rig since. I'm seriously considering selling my HD800 rig and getting the SR009. The cost of my amp and the HD800 should cover a good amount of the cost.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> I found a US company that should give you a massive choice of wall warts that company is Jameco electronics.com. I think California but not sure. And they are reasonably priced  Its a well known company used by US electronic equipment builders.. Going by what was said in a previous post its 12 V at 0.700MA output . There are many to chose from buy one that is way OTT -IE- at least 1 amp or more 2 amps would be better . This will give you a power supply that isnt straining to output its designated voltage and current. . In other words DONT go for the  $10 shot -pay MORE for better build and component quality -$34 or so will get a good one.


 
  Okay I'll browse their selection and see if I can find one. Thank you for posting the website though! 
   
  Also, is there a term used for a + barrel? It gets kind of tedious to go through the data sheets to see if it's positive or not.


----------



## duncan1

EVE TAN-Further to wall warts if you have deep pockets and want quality then there is a US company in Hudson. MA that sells medical and industrial power supplies called Protek power.com as this company sells to the medical profession it must have a very high degree of engineering precision  and VERY low ripple.If in the UK try Fidelity audio.co,UK 
                              As far as Spritzers comment on reforming caps it brings back memories of reforming  smoothing
                                    caps in old tube radios a lot had wet electrolytic and even though 60 or more years old the  
                                     reforming worked .I still have my home built "reformer" no mains transformer -highly dangerous  
                                      but works just fine. switchable for -350V DC to 240 V DC- 2 position for SLOW reforming   
                                        large resistor and after viewing result on a small voltmeter switchable to FAST [higher current]  
                                         That's the secret you don't do it all at once but in STAGES that gives better results.
       Sorry about the layout its one of my faults.


----------



## mechgamer123

defqon said:


> mechgamer123 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm still not totally sure that's the case. Why would the transformer make the amp hum, but not the transformer itself?
> ...



Correct.



kevin gilmore said:


> From the video the 120v wall wart is obviously a switcher and a switcher driving a switcher
> Usually causes trouble due to switching currents.



So I need to get a non-switching transformer?


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





rawrster said:


> So I've been really enjoying the SR007 the last few weeks and haven't touched my HD800 rig since. I'm seriously considering selling my HD800 rig and getting the SR009. The cost of my amp and the HD800 should cover a good amount of the cost.


 
   
   
  Stax all the way huh?  Heck, you can sell the 007 and cover the full cost.


----------



## 3X0

Quote:


preproman said:


> Stax all the way huh?  Heck, you can sell the 007 and cover the full cost.


 
  Once you go Stax you don't go back.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





evetan said:


> A recommendation would be nice. What transformer do you guys use?


 
  +1
   
  It would be nice if the more educated members here could just recommend *a specific wall wart *that should technically work fine with a Japanese SRM-252S in the U.S.. I don't think we mind paying a little extra for quality and peace of mind but as a newb coming into the world of Stax international voltage issues it can get a little confusing when people say just buy any 12v 1amp wall wart. Just help us out by pointing to a few specific products that will/should work fine.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Quote:
> Once you go Stax you don't go back.


 

 +1. I haven't listened to a dynamic since the 007s arrived..


----------



## rawrster

preproman said:


> Stax all the way huh?  Heck, you can sell the 007 and cover the full cost.




I'm getting close. I could probably do with just the sr007 so jot sure yet but my hd800 is just there all lonely and stuff. There's a wait for the 009 at price Japan and I don't like waiting


----------



## Chris J

mechgamer123 said:


> Correct.
> So I need to get a non-switching transformer?




The wall wart should be a linear power supply,
not a switchmode power supply.

I can't recommend a source.


----------



## miceblue

m-13 said:


> evetan said:
> 
> 
> > A recommendation would be nice. What transformer do you guys use?
> ...




Yeah and now the wall wart needs to be linear instead of a switchmode one, which is news to me and I didn't know that when searching for one. -_-


----------



## tyre

Here's a possible solution for the SRM-252 power supply. This isn't really a recommendation as I haven't tried this one myself, just a suggestion. It could potentially be a piece of junk.

 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_162996_-1

 12VDC at 500mA with a 7812 linear regulator and a 2.1mm x 5.5mm connector.

 A polarity reversing adapter would be needed for center negative, otherwise the cable would have to be cut and the wires reversed. This one looks correct but I'm not certain. You'd probably want to check it first with a multimeter to be sure.

 http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/2-1mm-jack-2-1mm-plug-reverse-polarity-dc-power-supply-adaptor.html

 There's a 1A version of the power supply as well, but it uses a non-standard regulator IC that I've never heard of.

 The proper wall-wart that Stax provides with the North American SRM-252 is model no. 1240, 117V 60hz input, 12VDC at 400mA output, unregulated.
   
  Ultimately, it would be easier to buy a 120V to 100V step-down transformer from Amazon and use the Japanese wall-wart you already have.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





evetan said:


> A recommendation would be nice. What transformer do you guys use?


 
   
  Do you have any wall-warts lying around at home that are 12V? You could use one of those if the plug size is correct BUT it may need to be rewired to make it neg polarity.
   
  As for what I use it's the power supply that came with (or use to come with) the Australian SRM-252 amps... a massive power brick that weighs more than the amp itself!


----------



## DefQon

Typical router/modem wallwarts use the same tip and voltage rating that can be used on the Stax basic amp's.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Do you have any wall-warts lying around at home that are 12V? You could use one of those if the plug size is correct BUT it may need to be rewired to make it neg polarity.
> 
> As for what I use it's the power supply that came with (or use to come with) the Australian SRM-252 amps... a massive power brick that weighs more than the amp itself!


 
  I'm pretty bad with anything that deals with DIY in general. So I normally just take the buy it route. 
   
  Thanks for the suggestions though.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> As for what I use it's the power supply that came with (or use to come with) the Australian SRM-252 amps... a massive power brick that weighs more than the amp itself!


 
   
  (Quoting myself!)
   
  Dug out my amp from storage. Here's a pic of it with the wall-wart. Midday and still no sun or light around here so crap pic...


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Typical router/modem wallwarts use the same tip and voltage rating that can be used on the Stax basic amp's.


 
  Hehe, I'll have to splice up some wallwarts in the near future then!


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





tyre said:


> Here's a possible solution for the SRM-252 power supply. This isn't really a recommendation as I haven't tried this one myself, just a suggestion. It could potentially be a piece of junk.
> 
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_162996_-1
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks for the effort. Utimately I think I agree with you that I should just use the step-down transformer just for simplicity sake. All this polarity/linearity talk is just way over my non-engineering head. I was hoping there would be a simple wall wart that would work without any DIY, but I guess not.


----------



## mudihan

Does anyone know if the design below would also turn a SRD-6/7 into a Pro adaptor? 
   
http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srm-1mk2-bias-modification/#comment-960617449


----------



## tyre

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Typical router/modem wallwarts use the same tip and voltage rating that can be used on the Stax basic amp's.


 
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Hehe, I'll have to splice up some wallwarts in the near future then!


 
   
  I wouldn't. Kevin Gilmore specifically recommended against using an unregulated supply in this post.

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/22995#post_9532128

 In all likelihood, the original unregulated 12V wall-wart was designed so that the output voltage would be "pulled-down" to the proper 12VDC under load. Unloaded (or underloaded) wall-warts typically output a much higher voltage. The wrong wall-wart may ruin your SRM-252. Remember that the voltage written on the power supply is correct only at the specified output current.


----------



## jaycalgary

I received an email news letter today from "The DiyAudio Store".  Looks like some new interesting things. http://www.diyaudio.com/store/


----------



## EveTan

So this would be all I need to change the voltage? 
   
http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/product_info.php?category_id=10016468&products_id=10061420


----------



## wink

Quoterepoman 





> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Don't sell the 007 until you've done a long comparo between the 007 & 009.
   
  Then sell the one you like least, or better still, keep both.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I received an email news letter today from "The DiyAudio Store".  Looks like some new interesting things. http://www.diyaudio.com/store/


 

 I don't see anything new or interesting there.


----------



## telecaster




----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
  I have also a SRM-717, 100V japanese version. (use now transformer to adapt to 220V, 50Hz)
   
  Now how to solder to get the 100V to 220V?
   
  Can you give me the details how you did it?
  
   
  Peter


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tyre said:


> Here's a possible solution for the SRM-252 power supply. This isn't really a recommendation as I haven't tried this one myself, just a suggestion. It could potentially be a piece of junk.
> 
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_162996_-1
> 
> ...


 
  Will this work?
  http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
   
  Gawd dang it. Does an "unregulated" linear wall mount work? Or will that lead to my amp exploding too?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mudihan said:


> Does anyone know if the design below would also turn a SRD-6/7 into a Pro adaptor?
> 
> http://www.headfonia.com/stax-srm-1mk2-bias-modification/#comment-960617449


 
   
  No, that would never work.  No HV AC voltage to draw from so you need at least 6 stages in the multiplier. 
   
  I made a PCB that does just this a few years ago and I always keep them "in stock" in case somebody needs one. 
   
  Quote: 





pschelbert said:


> Hi
> 
> I have also a SRM-717, 100V japanese version. (use now transformer to adapt to 220V, 50Hz)
> 
> ...


 
   
  Really depends on how Stax built you particular amp how this is done.  Open it up and follow the wires from the back of the transformer to find what Stax did on that unit.  Once we know that then we can say how to do it.


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





wink said:


> Don't sell the 007 until you've done a long comparo between the 007 & 009.
> 
> Then sell the one you like least, or better still, keep both.


 
  I don't think I'll sell the 007. I'm thinking of selling my HD800 rig and buying a SR009. It would simplify things since I had separate rigs so would be down to one if I went that way.


----------



## mudihan

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> No, that would never work.  No HV AC voltage to draw from so you need at least 6 stages in the multiplier.
> 
> I made a PCB that does just this a few years ago and I always keep them "in stock" in case somebody needs one.


 
  Thanks. I will keep that in mind when I get a Pro phone.


----------



## rubenpp

wink said:


> Don't sell the 007 until you've done a long comparo between the 007 & 009.
> 
> Then sell the one you like least, or better still, keep both.




+1 Definitely keep both


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





rubenpp said:


> +1 Definitely keep both


 
  I definitely prefer the SR-009s (the best cans I've ever heard bar none), but that said, I've gained a new respect for the SR-007 MKI since I got to hear it on my HeadAmp KGSS. If you can work it out, might be worth keeping both (or sell your HD800s and get an LCD-3).


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Try the 407 and 507 you will love it. I never liked buying used headphones.


 

 Personally, after listning to both 407 and 507, I went with the 407.  I felt there was a better overall balance.  Everyone has their tastes and everyone's ears are a bit different, too.  I heard more solidity in the bass in the 407's, and a bit less sharpness in the 507's.  Plenty of detail with both.  I don't think you would go wrong with either, but by all means, listen to both if at all possible. (It doesn't hurt that the 407's will deflate your wallet a tad less! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## autoteleology

Seems like the highest end model of the Lambdas is often overlooked - I remember reading a review about a comparison between the SR-303 and SR-404 by 6moons, and not even _they,_ of all people, claimed an audible difference between the two.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





bookbear said:


> Personally, after listning to both 407 and 507, I went with the 407.  I felt there was a better overall balance.  Everyone has their tastes and everyone's ears are a bit different, too.  I heard more solidity in the bass in the 407's, and a bit less sharpness in the 507's.  Plenty of detail with both.  I don't think you would go wrong with either, but by all means, listen to both if at all possible. (It doesn't hurt that the 407's will deflate your wallet a tad less!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Some here that have tried both models actually have opposite impressions compared to yours.
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Seems like the highest end model of the Lambdas is often overlooked - I remember reading a review about a comparison between the SR-303 and SR-404 by 6moons, and not even _they,_ of all people, claimed an audible difference between the two.


 
   
  That's because the 303 and 404 use identical transducers. The only difference is the grey/bluish vs brown colour and higher quality cables on the 404. If you could get a 303 and 404 at the same price, you would go for the 404 but if it's any cheaper the 303 is a good buy, but the colour is damn uglier looking then the brown.


----------



## autoteleology

> If you could get a 303 and 404 at the same price, you would go for the 404 but if it's any cheaper the 303 is a good buy, but the colour is damn uglier looking then the brown.


 
   
  Psssssssh. I own an SR-303. Anybody who buys a Stax Lambda is probably not concerned about looks in the first place.

 If they use identical transducers, then why did Stax make an SR-404? Did they think nobody would figure it out or something? Why would anyone pay a ton more money for the same ugly headphone with a slightly different color scheme?


----------



## telecaster

Quality control, set up time, cable material, better tested drivers and better tested don't know what.. comes to mind. Like Grado selling the same driver, but the best driver goes in the higher end models.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Psssssssh. I own an SR-303. Anybody who buys a Stax Lambda is probably not concerned about looks in the first place.
> 
> If they use identical transducers, then why did Stax make an SR-404? Did they think nobody would figure it out or something? Why would anyone pay a ton more money for the same ugly headphone with a slightly different color scheme?


 
  It had better newer cables. lol
  Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Quality control, set up time, cable material, better tested drivers and better tested don't know what.. comes to mind. Like Grado selling the same driver, but the best driver goes in the higher end models.


 
  This ^. There are few who can chime in as to why they did this.


----------



## spritzer

It's more about following a product lineup they have generated piece-by-piece over the last 30 years.  They must have discovered that it was good business to have multiple sets even if they are all very similar.  The basic is just a continuation of the Lambda Pro from 1982, the Classic is the same as the Signature from 1987 and the Signature the Nova Signature from 1994.  It's always better to give people choice even if it is just the illusion of choice...


----------



## Bookbear

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Some here that have tried both models actually have opposite impressions compared to yours.


 
  <smile>  As I said, everyone's ears and tastes are different.  A great deal depends on the specific recordings being listened to.  As always, ymmv.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's more about following a product lineup they have generated piece-by-piece over the last 30 years.  They must have discovered that it was good business to have multiple sets even if they are all very similar.  The basic is just a continuation of the Lambda Pro from 1982, the Classic is the same as the Signature from 1987 and the Signature the Nova Signature from 1994.  It's always better to give people choice even if it is just the illusion of choice...


 
  Its the BNG way of marketing. (same product just Bold New Graphics or in this case color and cable)...most consumers just see it as a new and therefore better product then last years...


----------



## autoteleology

So, can someone with experience with the SRD-X, or an energizer like it, tell me how it stacks up compared to an actual dedicated amp? I have an SRD-X on my desk pre-amped by a Little Dot 1+, and it sounds really great. Best I've heard yet, certainly much better than the SRM-Xh, but I'm wondering just how much better I can get.

 Also, what is the ideal type of amp to use as a pre-amp for an energizer? I'm currently under the impression that an amplifier optimized for low impedance headphones seems to work best.


----------



## DefQon

I think Grokit is using his Woo wa2 as a preamp. :S

That said never used a preamp in any of Stax setups.


----------



## bearFNF

I am using my Asgard 2 as a pre-amp to my SRD-7/SB, it is doing a nice job...


----------



## 3X0

What's special about the SRD-X besides the portability? FWIR isn't it suppose to have a volume control anyway?

The previous owner of my SRM-T1 decoupled the volume control from the circuit so I use my Nova as the pre-amp and it still sounds awesome.

Only problem is that doing so has sacrificed the analog balance control and there is a slight channel imbalance.

On that note, making the observation that many Stax amps have balance controls and channel imbalance seems to account for the bulk of their driver servicing - how prevalent is this and what are the consequences besides volume? I know in some cases channel imbalance is temporary but in other cases it is permanent (e. g. from driver arcing and such), but I'm curious as to the implications besides one channel being inherently louder than the other. In my experience it hasn't seemed to have a noticeable detriment to the sound after being compensated in either the analog or digital domain, so I have to wonder why "victims" of channel imbalance generally get their drivers replaced.


----------



## DefQon

I sold off my imbalanced 404 and got myself another one with it's original box. If your Stax sounds imbalanced out of the blue, spritzers recommendation is for you to play music through it for 2 weeks as there could be a nasty left over charge sitting somewhere on the membrane, so letting it play music for a while will let it fix itself.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I sold off my imbalanced 404 and got myself another one with it's original box.
> 
> If your Stax sounds imbalanced out of the blue, spritzers recommendation is for you to play music through it for 2 weeks as there could be a nasty left over charge sitting somewhere on the membrane, so letting it play music for a while will let it fix itself.


 
  Not as easy of an option with the HE60. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Best I can do is replace the drivers through Sennheiser and put the old ones up for sale. Though this route is complicated by the recently-discovered fact that my HEV70 seems to be faulty, and I understand Sennheiser needs them for testing the system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Going to try the music thing, since I recently got them back from Moon-Audio (replug to Stax Pro) and didn't notice the imbalance as much before the retermination. Problem is my hearing is only sensitive enough to pick up channel imbalance once in a blue moon...


----------



## DefQon

Well at least Sennheiser still stocks spare drivers for the HE60/90, unlike Stax, once it's discontinued they don't have surplus NOS drivers unless you like paying near full retail price of them updating your earspeaker with the latest model transducer. For me when I notice my ears are playing tricks on me regards with channel imbalance, I use a db meter app on my phone that I use to measure the volume on each of the channel to confirm if it is actually happening.


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
  I have made photos from my Stax SRM-717.
   
  Now what to change to make the 100V Japanese Version to a 220V(240V) version?
   
  I have unscrewed the board with the fuses and lifted it as bit to see better the labels on it.
   
  Peter


----------



## Trance_Gott

I use a SR307 with a SRM1 MK2 and I'm very happy with this combo.
Is it worth to make a step to SR507 or SR404LE? Or better to go for Omega 007?


----------



## duncan1

PSCHELBERT--Digging out my old 717[as Stax are not too forthcoming in giving out technical information]  The wire colors are wired identical in my 240V version but luckily enough unlike the 727 it is actually a lot easier than it looks. Like the old tube radios made for export with different voltage settings it is easy to adjust as all the tappings are soldered onto the PCB holding the mains fuses --as in your LAST picture. Your solid bars are in ---3 and 6- MINE---240V-- are in -- 2 and 5-- unless spritzer who has vast knowledge on Stax says otherwise - THAT'S where you move the  solid bars---simple-- [ Unless as I said Spritzer says different as I respect his viewpoint]   Also remember as you have increased the  VOLTAGE the ACTUAL current used will be less so the value of the big input surge limiting/ overload fuse Will be DIFFERENT!. From what I remember the 240V fuse is 600MA--BUT I found that to be too near the mark so I increased it to around 1 AMP-You don't have to do that but even working on the 717 didn't cause any problems and I tested it out by shorting 1 leg of each of the mains rectifiers and in each case the fuse blew. Hope this helps-- THE ABOVE- -- DOES NOT APPLY TO THE  727.


----------



## DefQon

Jumpers 1,3 and 6 is definitely 100v
2,5 is definitely 240v.
2,4,6 is 120v.
3,5 is 220v.

Credits to kg and spritz as the above worked for my 323S.


----------



## DefQon

My SRM1-MK1 went kaputz this morning. No smoke, or burnt smell, still seems operationally fine. Still using stock cap's as well. Sound comes out of the Right channel but no sound on Left. Even fed a RCA wired cable directly to the Left-input solder pad underneath the PCB and no sound. Both the normal bias jacks don't produce sound on the left side.
   
  Rewired the RCA connectors just few days ago and cranked it up this morning, I did see a small blue spark from the white 630v bias wire that connects to the copper bridge across the 4 transistors. The problem was the white cable was just dangling on top of the bolt not secured down properly with the washer. 
   
  Any ideas? Kg/spritzer?


----------



## palchiu

Found Dr. Gilmore's message, maybe help.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





trance_gott said:


> I use a SR307 with a SRM1 MK2 and I'm very happy with this combo.
> Is it worth to make a step to SR507 or SR404LE? Or better to go for Omega 007?


 
  I would believe 307 is already very good, step up to 009 maybe.


----------



## pschelbert

Hi Duncan1 and DefQon,
   
  great advise. I will now go forward and try it. No soldering required, even easier.
  Tahnks
   
  Peter


----------



## MDR30

spritzer said:


> As I mentioned it a while back, here is a super small Stax tube amp.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Looks very interesting, and simple enough even for me to assemble. Would boards and parts be available? What tubes?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Jumpers 1,3 and 6 is definitely 100v
> 2,5 is definitely 240v.
> 2,4,6 is 120v.
> 3,5 is 220v.
> ...


 
   
  Yup, this is the correct setup so just rearrange the "fuses" and it's good to go.  Not all of the Stax amps are this easy to work on though. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> My SRM1-MK1 went kaputz this morning. No smoke, or burnt smell, still seems operationally fine. Still using stock cap's as well. Sound comes out of the Right channel but no sound on Left. Even fed a RCA wired cable directly to the Left-input solder pad underneath the PCB and no sound. Both the normal bias jacks don't produce sound on the left side.
> 
> Rewired the RCA connectors just few days ago and cranked it up this morning, I did see a small blue spark from the white 630v bias wire that connects to the copper bridge across the 4 transistors. The problem was the white cable was just dangling on top of the bolt not secured down properly with the washer.
> 
> Any ideas? Kg/spritzer?


 
   
  Nothing good comes to mind.  If the transistors are shot then the odds of finding replacements are pretty much zero. 
   
  Quote: 





mdr30 said:


> Looks very interesting, and simple enough even for me to assemble. Would boards and parts be available? What tubes?


 
   
  I would never offer boards outside of my small cache of proto units but the Gerbers will be made available.  It's bit deceptive this one though as the tubes are an utter pain to install.  I'm using the Soviet 6H17B's and US made 6814 as output tubes and the the Soviet are difficult since there is no easy way to see which pin is which.  I just found the heaters, tested them and the rest just follows the pinout on the board.  No sockets work for these as they were intended to be soldered in. 
   
  The switcher is off Taobao but a linear supply would be even better.  This one was just bought for the hell of it and it was less than 10$ shipped to me. 
   
  It's been tested and it works but I'm waiting for my chassis to arrive for some more complete testing.    Here it is on a temporary testing setup:
   

   
  One thing I might do is use that layout to make balanced GES.  Just need to replace the "sockets" and make some caps and resistors bigger and voila... instant GES.


----------



## ericfarrell85

Anyone know where to purchase an SR009 under $4000 usd without backorder issues? The price is great at pricejapan, but they're back ordered for several months.


----------



## jcx

Justin, other dealers with stock probably paid more wholesale than current priceJapan since the currency drop
   
  even in the forsale forum people are asking more for used than the priceJapan prices for top Stax new


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





jcx said:


> Justin, other dealers with stock probably paid more wholesale than current priceJapan since the currency drop
> 
> even in the forsale forum people are asking more for used than the priceJapan prices for top Stax new


 
   
  Exactly, if you want to get one for 3500 brand new, you have to just wait for price japan. Thats what ive resigned myself too.


----------



## davidsh

I dont understand how they can do it so cheap?


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
  I just opened and removed the fuse-board.
  I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...
   
  I think I have to go deeper.
   
  Helpful if I would know about the windings on the primary side:
   
  There are the following wire-colors, from left to right (see picture):
   
  a) yellow
  b) white
  c) green
  d) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer
  e) grey
  f) brown
  g) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer
   
  would be helpful to have a schematic.
   
  I read there are two 0-100V-110V windings. Which colors are what?
   
  Peter


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I dont understand how they can do it so cheap?


 
   
  Actually $3400 to your door right now and that's what happens when you cut out the middle man


----------



## davidsh

They also delivers to shops and such? Too bad it wouldn't be worth while considering the taxes...


----------



## Solude

You don't pay taxes on local buys?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





solude said:


> You don't pay taxes on local buys?


 
  Right about that. And the holiday goes to... Japan! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Just found that Slayer's south of heaven (the album) doesn't sound bad on my Stax. Actaully it sounds surprisingly good, most metal sound quite bad or mediocre from my experience.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Nothing good comes to mind.  If the transistors are shot then the odds of finding replacements are pretty much zero.


 
  I know aye. Even no luck with ebay for the specific transistors I may be after if they are the culprit. I found one supplier online who has limited quantities and have shot them an email inquiry regards about it, fingers crossed they will give me a positive "ok, all good" response. 
   
  Ok I've done some measuring across the parts that could end up being a culprit. I've even ordered extra 470kohm 5% 1/2watt carbon resistors off RS last night as one of the resistors on the PCB, I've accidentally scratched off the coating and then applied black nail polish to protect it but I'm not sure if that was a good thing to do. 
   
  Apart from what looks to be power diodes near the coupling ceramic caps in between the two 350v 47uf ELNA caps could also possibly be the problem? I haven't measured the 4 diodes but I did find one weird thing when I measured those ELNA 350v caps.
   
  One of the cap's measure 0vdc on the negative pole, approx 315-320vdc on the positive pole. But the other ELNA cap (as seen in the pictures) next to the white 600v+ bias wire connecting to the copper bridge, the neg pole measures 315-320vdc (shouldn't it be 0?) and the positive pole measures 620-630vdc. The cap does not emit burnt smell or hot temperature or so.
   
  The first two bolted down transistors also measure half of 600vdc when measured underneath the PCB directly on the soldered points and the last two transistors next to the ELNA cap's measure 620-630vdc on top and bottom.
   
   
  Enough yapping from me, here are some pics.
   

   

   
   
  Quote: 





pschelbert said:


> Hi
> 
> I just opened and removed the fuse-board.
> I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...
> ...


 
  Post a picture, you might need to solder a wire as Stax might've ripped them out for a complicated voltage conversion.
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> They also delivers to shops and such? Too bad it wouldn't be worth while considering the taxes...


 
  Sucks to be you due to the Euro import tax.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> They also delivers to shops and such? Too bad it wouldn't be worth while considering the taxes...


 
   
  What happens if they misquote the purchase price of the headphones on the package? For imports into Australia if the seller hypothetically puts a value less than AUD1000 on the package customs ignores it (meaning no taxes are payable).


----------



## palchiu

Quote: 





pschelbert said:


> Hi
> 
> I just opened and removed the fuse-board.
> I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...
> ...


 
   
  Like this pic?
   

   
  pics from 007ta should be same.


----------



## DefQon

You can't just under-declare the value of the item. On the custom's form you need to fill out a reason and what the item is. I learnt this from another Denmark buyer who purchased my imbalanced SR-404's, Denmark customs or any euro customs, they open parcels up sometimes. If you under-declare the value but have the item listed as good's or gift, chances are you will get dicked with fee's. But if you have it listed as returns/refunded goods & services, then you should be ok. Anyway, I doubt customs people are dumb enough to dismiss something expensive looking such as the 009's as being worth $100.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You can't just under-declare the value of the item. On the custom's form you need to fill out a reason and what the item is.


 
   
  I frequently get asked by _sellers _if they should undervalue items they're sending to me. These are legit shops (i.e. not ebay purchases).


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





defqon said:


> One of the cap's measure 0vdc on the negative pole, approx 315-320vdc on the positive pole. But the other ELNA cap (as seen in the pictures) next to the white 600v+ bias wire connecting to the copper bridge, the neg pole measures 315-320vdc (shouldn't it be 0?) and the positive pole measures 620-630vdc. The cap does not emit burnt smell or hot temperature or so.


 
   
  They are "stacked" like batteries so they can use lower-rated components to reach the voltages. Think of it like how you stack 1.5v batteries to power up your other devices like lightbulbs and torches. 
   
  Did you try measuring the voltages from outputs/stax socket? Try measuring L+ and L-; R+ and R-; Bias and gnd; L+ and gnd; r+ and gnd. That may give some clues as well.
   
  It may be actually quite easy to troubleshoot for you where things went awry as you can just follow the right channel and compare it against the left. If you're lucky it may be just some lose wiring? (we can all hope )


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I frequently get asked by _sellers _if they should undervalue items they're sending to me. These are legit shops (i.e. not ebay purchases).


 
  Yeah well there is no spoon too. That's what I learnt. Nor is there potatoes.
   
  Quote: 





ristar said:


> They are "stacked" like batteries so they can use lower-rated components to reach the voltages. Think of it like how you stack 1.5v batteries to power up your other devices like lightbulbs and torches.
> 
> Did you try measuring the voltages from outputs/stax socket? Try measuring L+ and L-; R+ and R-; Bias and gnd; L+ and gnd; r+ and gnd. That may give some clues as well.
> 
> It may be actually quite easy to troubleshoot for you where things went awry as you can just follow the right channel and compare it against the left. If you're lucky it may be just some lose wiring? (we can all hope )


 
   
  I had an idea that it was something like that otherwise 600v+ through a 350v cap mean's explosion. I'm still in one piece so it's all good. Honestly the only thing I'm thinking that is preventing sound through the left-side is the 470kohm resistor underneath the two big ELNA cap's that I covered a scratch with black nail polish. I measured both jacks, everything read zero (unless I didn't measure it properly) except two pins of each jack which is the bias supply at around 30-40vdc but I need to double check again. It's hard to compare things between both channels because it was working fine up until I took it apart to rewire the RCA's (now completely re-wired) and changed a ceramic coupling 104k cap to a WIMA 104k MKP rated at 0.1uf 400v/250vac which fits the bill perfectly except size. Again the cap that the Wima replaced is around the ELNA big caps.


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yeah well there is no spoon too. That's what I learnt. Nor is there potatoes.
> 
> 
> I had an idea that it was something like that otherwise 600v+ through a 350v cap mean's explosion. I'm still in one piece so it's all good. Honestly the only thing I'm thinking that is preventing sound through the left-side is the 470kohm resistor underneath the two big ELNA cap's that I covered a scratch with black nail polish. I measured both jacks, everything read zero (unless I didn't measure it properly) except two pins of each jack which is the bias supply at around 30-40vdc but I need to double check again. It's hard to compare things between both channels because it was working fine up until I took it apart to rewire the RCA's (now completely re-wired) and changed a ceramic coupling 104k cap to a WIMA 104k MKP rated at 0.1uf 400v/250vac which fits the bill perfectly except size. Again the cap that the Wima replaced is around the ELNA big caps.


 
   
  Everything reading 0 apart from the bias is a good thing, really - no offset issues. Your bias supply reads way too low, though. Even on a crappy DMM it should read 100+? Edit: That said, when you put the volume up a tad and with a signal running through the numbers shouldn't be 0.
   
  What I mean about comparing between channels is that you have to identify the signal paths through the amp for the left and the right. Measuring various points between the two channels will slowly help you figure where the problem areas are on the left channel. I'm fairly new into the DIY stuff so I can't give you much more specifics, but that's what I did when I ran into minor issues with my KGSSHV build (one resistor and LED went bad on mine). If you really think it's the resistor, unsolder it and measure the resistance - fairly easy. Without knowing how deep you've scratched it, I personally think it's ok to put nailpolish over it to insulate it again.
   
  Good luck!


----------



## DefQon

Yeah I will need to measure the points again. It's going to a slight PITA to measure everything in each of the channels signal path to ensure balanced/equal numbers. The resistor has it's outside coating completely scratched off and I can see inside the carbon resistor (the metal bit), so I thought it'd be ok to just recoat it with nail polish which is used cover up scratched solder traces on PCB's due to it's non-conductivity.


----------



## telecaster

It's easy to check the transistor, hard part is having a meter with sufficient diode voltage test and unsoldering them. Resistor checking is easy as been said.


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
   
  now the photo, to illustrate the below description
   
   
  ******************************************************

   
  I just opened and removed the fuse-board.
  I discovered that on metal-bar 2 and 5 there is no wire soldered to...
   
  I think I have to go deeper.
   
  Helpful if I would know about the windings on the primary side:
   
  There are the following wire-colors, from left to right (see picture):
   
  a) yellow
  b) white
  c) green
  d) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer
  e) grey
  f) brown
  g) no wire attached to the copper-color wire coming out of transformer
   
  would be helpful to have a schematic.
   
  I read there are two 0-100V-110V windings. Which colors are what?
   
  Peter


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
  yes it looks very similar as your pics for my SRM-717.
   
  Comparing the pictures, I see that:
   
  d) the purple wire is not there.
  g) the blue wire is not there.
   
  You can tell me to where the blue wire is going and to where the purple wire is going?
   
  To have a schematic would be great.
   
  Peter
   
  here just to compare again the picture of my SRM-717


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I doubt customs people are dumb enough to dismiss something expensive looking such as the 009's as being worth $100.


 
   
  It's a headphone.  No one outside the Head-Fi community is going to believe there are $3400 headphones, $100... that they can wrap their head around


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





solude said:


> It's a headphone.  No one outside the Head-Fi community is going to believe there are $3400 headphones, $100... that they can wrap their head around


 
  lol put's on tin foil hats.


----------



## pschelbert

Hi
   
  I found in a german forum the following description:
   
  according to that I made a schematic drawing. Is that correct?
   
  Peter


----------



## Argybargy

*RE-CAP MY SRM-717?*
   
  This amp was produced from 1999 to 2006(?) so it could be anywhere from 7 to 14 years old.  I don't know how old mine is, though it sounds fantastic as is (everything appears stock and immaculate).
   
  It has the variable voltage switch at the back with the little metal plate covering it.  The 2 screws attaching the plate have a proprietary(?) head which I had to strip to remove and set the voltage from the default Japanese 100v to 117v.  Most pictures of other units show a phillips head.
   
  The side case cover screws have allen heads.
   
  Serial Number is W011XX.
  Also another number next to the serial: 75136
   
  Any ideas about the year of production?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Question about the 2170 system, or rather more so the 252 amp;
> 
> My friend is interested in purchasing this system as he wants to give E-stats a try, but as you know in NA the prices are high and it's much cheaper to get from Japan (which he can arrange for to get). The problem is with the voltage of the 252 amp. Is the power supply internal on these? They do look really small so I'm not sure whether they do, I'm thinking they may come with a wall wart instead, but can't be sure as I've never seen it.  If it's internal, is a simple mod possible to convert the voltage from 100v to 120v (I've done it on my old 717 before which was easy), or if it is external, possible to get a separate wall wart for them?  He does have a Japanese voltage transformer, but would rather not use it if possible.


 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> It's been said here before just buy an American 12v 1amp wallwart with the correct tip and you're good to go. The PS is external so there is nothing to mod inside.


 
   
  Thanks for the tip. So he found one for a good price at Japan, he's going to go ahead with it... but about the 120v American wallwart PS to purchase separately, does anyone have a good link to one to be used with a 100v unit of SRM-252?    They seem common enough to find, but what I'm concerned with is something with power jack polarity and how the Japanese versions are reverse of what is typically used here? I'm clueless to all this electronic stuff, but I'm guessing that's not a good thing to use for them. If anyone can post a link with the one with the proper polarity for the 100v unit to be used with the 120v outlets that'd be awesome.


----------



## reiserFS

Someone is selling a High-Amp.de amp, pretty nice alternative to the KGSS.
   
  http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kopfhorerverstarker-fur-STAX-Elektrostaten-Selbstbau-Rohre-FET-Hybrid-/171077600414?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item27d505049e


----------



## DefQon

Was looking at that this morning.
   
  Anyway, got the resistor from RS this morning, soldered the bitch in. Powered on amp without source or my SR-5, measured all major points across the transistors again, staying at the same steady 620-625vdc. Then I flipped the amp over and tried measuring one of the bolts securing an end of the 2SC1828  and bam, an arc, killed my el cheapo Jaycar multimeter too.
   
  Plugged in SR-5 and source. Still no sound on the left channel. I've searched around from the MK2 rebuild logs and normally I would just go check the wires for output to see if they are fine, but it's no use since the Left-Input solder pad on the circuit don't even produce sound when I have RCA wire connected to it.
   
  Calling for KG's and Birgir's help on this one. It would suck to let this amp go as it sounds extremely good with my SR-5's.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Thanks for the tip. So he found one for a good price at Japan, he's going to go ahead with it... but about the 120v American wallwart PS to purchase separately, does anyone have a good link to one to be used with a 100v unit of SRM-252?    They seem common enough to find, but what I'm concerned with is something with power jack polarity and how the Japanese versions are reverse of what is typically used here? I'm clueless to all this electronic stuff, but I'm guessing that's not a good thing to use for them. If anyone can post a link with the one with the proper polarity for the 100v unit to be used with the 120v outlets that'd be awesome.


 
  This link would definitely be helpful to many of us .


----------



## mechgamer123

Just plug in the Japanese transformer into your American wall outlet and be happy with it


----------



## EveTan

How is the Stax Lambda normal bias +SRD 7/SB combo?
   
  Should I get it if I have a 2050 set?/ what differences would I find?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Just plug in the Japanese transformer into your American wall outlet and be happy with it


 
  I wouldn't recommend this. 100v appliances on 117-120v mains AC is not a good idea especially with something so delicate such as the Stax amp, not to mention not regulated.


----------



## CDPlayer

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Someone is selling a High-Amp.de amp, pretty nice alternative to the KGSS.
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kopfhorerverstarker-fur-STAX-Elektrostaten-Selbstbau-Rohre-FET-Hybrid-/171077600414?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item27d505049e


 
   
  This isn't an SS, it's one of Andreas' tubed amps.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Was looking at that this morning.
> 
> Anyway, got the resistor from RS this morning, soldered the bitch in. Powered on amp without source or my SR-5, measured all major points across the transistors again, staying at the same steady 620-625vdc. Then I flipped the amp over and tried measuring one of the bolts securing an end of the 2SC1828  and bam, an arc, killed my el cheapo Jaycar multimeter too.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Do a diode test on the transistors as I'm pretty sure some of them are fubar.  You can also measure voltages between the channels, especially before the output caps.  If they aren't close to each other then something is very wrong. 
   
  No chance in hell to find any replacement sand though.


----------



## reiserFS

Yeah, seen that after reading the description.
  Quote: 





cdplayer said:


> This isn't an SS, it's one of Andreas' tubed amps.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I actually talked to someone who's been using his Japanese transformer in America for at least a year and he said there are actually linear regulators that keep the voltage at 12V, even though the input voltage is greater than that.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





evetan said:


> How is the Stax Lambda normal bias +SRD 7/SB combo?
> 
> Should I get it if I have a 2050 set?/ what differences would I find?


 

 I would suggest that the Lambda and SRD7 combo will work very well - if you get a good enough signal going into them - source and power amp. The quality of the source is the influence on the sound.


----------



## pschelbert

I made the conversion, and it works!
   
  Due to your photo, description form DefQon, Spritzer and a german forum, I clould now discover what was missing in my SRM-717.
   
  STAX does obviously change this and that to confuse. In my case just two wire have been omitted (blue and purple from Jumperboard to Trafo).
   
  I changed it now to 240V, bars 2 and 5 and changed the fuse to 0.8A, probably 0.63A would work as well.
   
  I just wanted to attach the description with photos and a file which shows the current pathes for 100V, 120V, 220V, 240V.
   
  Somehow I have no permission to do that.
   
  If you want that , just PM me to send it via my email.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> I actually talked to someone who's been using his Japanese transformer in America for at least a year and he said there are actually linear regulators that keep the voltage at 12V, even though the input voltage is greater than that.


 
   
  If anyone with the knowledge of the inner parts of the Amp and the power supply of the 252s can confirm this then that would be great.  
   
  I see that Elusive Disc's description of the 2170 specifically warn of doing this though, saying it can damage the amp and the headphones...


----------



## pschelbert

SRM-717 voltage change
   
  as I cannot upload a whole pdf, here the essential part:
   
  here the schematic.
   
  Regarding Voltage input to a 717 and 007t I can clarify that: (sited form earlier, and this is true, I verified it for SRM-717)

 The power supply transformer has 7 tap on the input side which are
 (0)Yellow= common (winding 1)
 (1)White=same as yellow (winding 1)
 (2)Green=100v tap (winding 1)
 (3)Purple=120v tap (winding 1)
 (4)Black=common (winding 2)
 (5)Brown=100v (winding 2)
 (6)Blue=120v (winding 2)

*Jumpers*
 Six jumper bar for voltage change number 1 thru 6
 For 100V you install one bar each for 1,3,6.
 For 120V you install one bar each for 2,4,6.
 For 220V you install one bar each 3,5.
  For 240V you install one bar each 2,5.
  
*What to do? 240V input*
- PPL wire from Trafo to Jumperboard
- BLU wire from Trafo to Jumperboard
   
- Jumper in Position 2
- Jumper in Position 5
   
   
  - Replace Fuse (250V, 750mA, or about 0.63A-0.8A)
     (Fuse was for 100V: 250V, 1.5A)


   
   
  here below you do not see the missing purple and missing blue wires from Trafo to Jumperboard (on the board you see just the words BLU, PPL)


----------



## M-13

Now that the Japanese Yen has crashed and likely will stay that way for some time, do you guys think Stax will lower the MSRP here in the U.S.? I only ask because Fostex just slashed the prices of the TH900 and TH600 significantly.


----------



## mechgamer123

k_19 said:


> mechgamer123 said:
> 
> 
> > I actually talked to someone who's been using his Japanese transformer in America for at least a year and he said there are actually linear regulators that keep the voltage at 12V, even though the input voltage is greater than that.
> ...



I'll see if he can hop on here and confirm. He knows much more than me. He probably also has a picture of the PCB...

@M-15: the yen has been weak like this for the past few months


----------



## miceblue

Wow so all of this "you can't use it with American voltages" stuff actually hasn't been tested by people here and you're just blindly suggesting things? o.0
   
  What do y'all use then?


----------



## mechgamer123

miceblue said:


> Wow so all of this "you can't use it with American voltages" stuff actually hasn't been tested by people here and you're just blindly suggesting things? o.0
> 
> What do y'all use then?



Either they're not from America, or probably paid full retail price... 
Or they have a better amp. :rolleyes:


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> @M-15: the yen has been weak like this for the past few months


 
  Oh I know. I keep up with my currency markets. I only ask because the currency easing by the BOJ seems more of a permanent norm now. I realize Stax won't flucate their MSRP based on small movements, but the value of the Yen is nothing like it was before and done purposefully by the BOJ and they intend to keep it at current rates. Price Japan is flooded with SR-009 orders now. Just wondering when Stax will adjust to the new norm.


----------



## catscratch

I'm just hoping this glut of 009 orders will male Stax realize the potential of selling more 009s overseas if they normalize their prices. Their distribution network.... needs work.


----------



## Solude

Don't kid yourself.  Stax is building the 009 24/7 and there isn't stock anywhere in the world, not just Japan.  Stax also has no incentive to make less in other markets when they can't keep stock on the shelves.  If a day comes that they are sitting on hundreds of unsold units, then they might have incentive to drop their wholesale price.


----------



## davidsh

Voltage in my country is 230 volts. So, would 220 or 240 be best for amp and headphones?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Do a diode test on the transistors as I'm pretty sure some of them are fubar.  You can also measure voltages between the channels, especially before the output caps.  If they aren't close to each other then something is very wrong.
> 
> No chance in hell to find any replacement sand though.


 
  OK thanks, I will do those tests once I get a replacement dmm in, would the bias and offset trimpot adjustment have anything to do with no left channel sound? 
   
  I'm just a bit afraid one of the high 600v b+ points will pop my dmm again. 
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Wow so all of this "you can't use it with American voltages" stuff actually hasn't been tested by people here and you're just blindly suggesting things? o.0
> 
> What do y'all use then?


 
  I'm still sticking by my recommendation as a single poster made a thread regarding running there 100v Stax on the mains and half the amp ended up popping fuses due to the state they were in the States the mains fluctuated more then the 125v rated fuse can handle. KG and Spritzer has already chimed in and said it's best to stick to the right voltage step down trafo or replacing the wallwart completely. Don't say you weren't warned.
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Voltage in my country is 230 volts. So, would 220 or 240 be best for amp and headphones?


 
  Adjust for 240v this way the trafo/amp runs cooler with the less than 10v requirement on the AC. 230/240 is used in Europe and Australia. 220v is used in Korea.


----------



## ultimanium

I've got a quick question.
I brought my SRD-X pro to the airport, and it seems to have a noise problem.

The noise sounds just like the noise one would expect from an integrated DAC, so I think it's just electrical interference.
Putting my hand over it stops the noise as well, and the noise really varies with where I put it.

It's also on battery, and the noise happens only when turned on, and even with no input.

Am I right to think this is from the crowded EM filed environment at the airport, and that something didn't suddenly go wrong?


----------



## DefQon

RFI and EMI comes to mind. Probably just mean's some of the area's in the SRD-X is not shielded/properly against mentioned interference to the amp. Not to mention, an airport with thousands of radio/electrical waves on various frequencies flowing through the air.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





solude said:


> Don't kid yourself.  Stax is building the 009 24/7 and there isn't stock anywhere in the world, not just Japan.  Stax also has no incentive to make less in other markets when they can't keep stock on the shelves.  If a day comes that they are sitting on hundreds of unsold units, then they might have incentive to drop their wholesale price.


 

 And this is the truth, ladies and gents.


----------



## DefQon

But has it ever happened over the past 40 years?


----------



## ultimanium

Thanks, that's what I figured.
Putting a metal take out tin on top of the amp seems to nearly eliminate the issue.


----------



## telecaster

you can endlessly Wonder whats wrong which is the best way to go it seems or you can just test the transistors its AB easy...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> you can endlessly Wonder whats wrong which is the best way to go it seems or you can just test the transistors its AB easy...


 
  That's exactly what I'm going to do today. Since my DMM is borked and a replacement on it's way early next week. I'm going to do two things to identify damage and rule out whatever components is borked.
   
  Originally I said the two ELNA 350v caps I measured (assuming one for each channel) one of the cap's measured 315vdc on the neg pole and 620 on the positive pole while the other ELNA cap measure 315vdc and 0vdc respectively, thanks to spritzers "replace/measure diodes in the output stage" idea, I looked at the PCB more carefully following the tracings from the R/L-input to the trafo ps and what looks like (assuming) is the output stage 4 diodes with bypassed ceramic film caps and 2 ELNA caps, the white bias 600v B+ wire connects to the 4 transistors and copper bridge comes from this section.
   
  Now I'm going to first de-solder the 4 diodes in that output stage (?) and record the values down and see if I can get replacements if required. Next I'm going to resolder the pairs of the diodes and swap positions with the other two. This way, if the right channel is dead but the left channel is ok, this should give me 315/620vdc on the neg/pos poles of the ELNA caps respectively. And the right channel should read 0vdc on the pos pole with no sound.
   
  This is one theory I have of what has happened.
   
  The next option is to desolder the 4 big transistors and again swap a pair in for the other pairs position so just swapping places. I'll do it in in steps so if one thing goes kaputz once I turn it on I can narrow this down as a suspect and confirm my findings once I get the DMM in by measuring the points.
   
  So it's pretty much a pair of transistors for each channel, pair of offset/balance trimpot adjustment for each channel, output stage has a pair of diodes (used to rectify AC to DC) bypassed by some ceramic film caps running in parallel with two ELNA 350 47uf caps (1 each channel). 
   
  If one component was half damaged then I would at least get some static out of the left side through L+/- pins. But the fact that it means there is no sound at all, could only mean dead transistor or diode. Upon close-up inspection nothing looks blown, all solder pads that look half-arsed has been reflowed. If a resistor was blown, my early measurements would've been out of line and physical burnt marks could've been seen.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Will this work?
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
   
  Does an "unregulated" linear wall mount work? Or will that lead to my amp exploding too?


----------



## DefQon

It looks fine but I'm not familiar with that particular unit.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> It looks fine but I'm not familiar with that particular unit.


 
  Mmk. Maybe I'll go ahead and get it and report back here. I'd like a second opinion on it though in terms of the supplied specifications to make sure everything is accounted for.
   
  Last time I was going to buy a switchmode wall wart before someone said otherwise...


----------



## Michgelsen

It depends. If you have a volt meter, check the voltage of the mains socket and see whether it's at 220 or 230 volt. If it's really at 230 volt, it's best to set up the amp for 240 volt to be on the safe side. It is common however that in countries that used to have 220 volt mains, 220 volt is still what comes out of the wall. In that case, you can set up the amp for 220 volt.
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Voltage in my country is 230 volts. So, would 220 or 240 be best for amp and headphones?


----------



## DefQon

What diode replacement would be for markings: 
   
  309 . ct ?


----------



## pschelbert

voltage is in Denmark same as in Switzerland (specs) : 230V.
  Earlier days it was 220V, but with a high toelrance of 220V -10V, +20V
   
  I actually measured 237V on the outlet in Switzerland.
   
  I set up my STAX SRM-717 for 240V.


----------



## shipsupt

Not sure about the ". ct ?"
   
  Any other markings, colored bands?
   
  A 1N309 appears to be a germanium diode, 50V.  I would think you could find a Schottky to replace it if you know what parameters you're trying to meet in the circuit.
   
  I'm sure one of the guys with these amp memorized will chime in any minute! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote: 





defqon said:


> What diode replacement would be for markings:
> 
> 309 . ct ?


----------



## duncan1

Nearest I can find to "CT" is "color television" [for the use of] Germanium usually have a much higher frequency band width and speed than standard silicon diodes other than the ones like Shipsupt has said --Shottky  Diodes. So its possible that was what it was indicated for [very early use].


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> If anyone with the knowledge of the inner parts of the Amp and the power supply of the 252s can confirm this then that would be great.
> 
> I see that Elusive Disc's description of the 2170 specifically warn of doing this though, saying it can damage the amp and the headphones...


 
   
  Let's not assume all the PSU's Stax uses are identical as they just aren't.  That said I just measured my 100V SRS-2170 PSU and it gives 18.47V unloaded off a 100VAC source and 21.86V off a 117VAC source.  Utterly unregulated and only people who want to buy new amps regularly would use the 100V transformer at anything other than 100V. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> That's exactly what I'm going to do today. Since my DMM is borked and a replacement on it's way early next week. I'm going to do two things to identify damage and rule out whatever components is borked.
> 
> Originally I said the two ELNA 350v caps I measured (assuming one for each channel) one of the cap's measured 315vdc on the neg pole and 620 on the positive pole while the other ELNA cap measure 315vdc and 0vdc respectively, thanks to spritzers "replace/measure diodes in the output stage" idea, I looked at the PCB more carefully following the tracings from the R/L-input to the trafo ps and what looks like (assuming) is the output stage 4 diodes with bypassed ceramic film caps and 2 ELNA caps, the white bias 600v B+ wire connects to the 4 transistors and copper bridge comes from this section.
> 
> ...


 
   
  One small flaw to all of this... there is only one PSU for both channels.  Two caps stacked on top of the other, or one cap gives 315VDC and the other one on top of it also gives that too but since it's "ground" is 315V the output voltage is 630V. 
   
  No chance that there are Germanium diodes in this amp.  The one I restored had bog standard Si from Toshiba which I replaced with something similar.  Even the Stax amps from the late 60's has Si everything. 
   
  The problem is clearly in the amp section so look there.  Measure between the channels but a simple test of the output voltages will confirm that it at play here.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  So...now you're saying to use a transformer instead of a wall wart? -_-''
   
  Since no one answered it:
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> So this would be all I need to change the voltage?
> 
> http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/product_info.php?category_id=10016468&products_id=10061420


----------



## duncan1

I rechecked the 1N309 and its definitely a very early germanium diode universal- 30V-100MA When I said for early use I was meaning used in early TV design as the CT ending could be color TV. Just answering DefQons comment . Maybe he can elucidate  the question.--Like to add looked at the transformers in EveTans comment and just last week bought a 2KV A example of the 3000W unit in the advert . from an American girl at a boot[trunk] sale for £5/about $8 will fit both 2 pin and 3pin USA- The unregulated power supply worry about over voltage is mostly unfounded as although you measure over voltage that voltage is mainly the stored energy in the  output smoothing cap.and amounts to very little current not enough to blow fuses or destroy an amp. Having said that I only use fully regulated supplies for "peace of mind" and a MUCH LOWER ripple current-thats where regulation[by a quality supply] beats unregulated.


----------



## telecaster

Unsolder the transistor and test them. There is method on the net for this.


----------



## EveTan

What's with the wires on the last picture of the unit? Why are there bare wires showing without any sort of connector? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121143067271


----------



## mudihan

evetan said:


> What's with the wires on the last picture of the unit? Why are there bare wires showing without any sort of connector? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121143067271


 
  SRD-7SB is just a transformer box -- you need to connect it to a speaker amp with a fair amount of power (or a very strong headphone amp with high gain). The bare wires are for connection to the speaker amp.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





mudihan said:


> SRD-7SB is just a transformer box -- you need to connect it to a speaker amp with a fair amount of power (or a very strong headphone amp with high gain). *The bare wires are for connection to the speaker amp. *


 
  does it.... requires soldering wires together? How does it connect? (I probably should take a look at the back of my speaker amp for the answer... but... it's a pain to take out)


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *EveTan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> does it.... requires soldering wires together? How does it connect? (I probably should take a look at the back of my speaker amp for the answer... but... it's a pain to take out)


 
   
  Nah, the speaker amp will have those screw down terminals for the bare wire.


----------



## livewire

Bwaaaaa-Ha-Ha-Ha! Bare wires from Hell! Yup - that's how they used to do it...
   
  Get a real stat amp. No bare wires. Sounds better too.
  The old trafo boxes are a poor man's compromise these days.
  As well are the six pin Lambdas that go with them.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





deadlylover said:


> Nah, the speaker amp will have those screw down terminals for the bare wire.


 
  Oh that's reassuring. Thanks.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Bwaaaaa-Ha-Ha-Ha! Bare wires from Hell! Yup - that's how they used to do it...
> 
> Get a real stat amp. No bare wires. Sounds better too.
> The old trafo boxes are a poor man's compromise these days.
> As well are the six pin Lambdas that go with them.


 
  So what would you recommend for a not "poor man's compromise" but not that wallet breaking? 
   
  Value would be nice too.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





evetan said:


> So what would you recommend for a not "poor man's compromise" but not that wallet breaking?
> 
> Value would be nice too.


 
   
  Depends on what one considers "wallet breaking".
  For around $700 (maybe a little less) a Stax SRS-2170 System
  or the Koss ESP-950 System.
   
  For about $1300, the Stax 407 with a SRM-323 amp.
   
  Those are approximate prices for contemporary stat setups. (new)
  One could do better if bought used.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Depends on what one considers "wallet breaking".
> For around $700 (maybe a little less) a Stax SRS-2170 System
> or the Koss ESP-950 System.


 
  You'd prefer the 207 over the Lambda normal bias?


----------



## livewire

Definitely.
   
  I am a treble-head tho.
  FWIW, the Stax expert Spritzer likes it too.
  I own all three of the mid-fi stats that I just mentioned.
  The Koss is tilted more torwards the midrange, the Stax 407 is sublime. Great balance.
   
  I am sorry - as much as I would like to own a SR-009, it is a wallet breaker for me.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Definitely.
> 
> I am a treble-head tho.
> FWIW, the Stax expert Spritzer likes it too.
> ...


 
  Ah, a fellow treble head. 
   
  Well, I'll prob get the 2050 tomorrow from the PO. I guess I'll try for a Lambda Signature instead of the normal bias.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Ill be joining the stax team soon enough! I'm buying GeorgeP's old KGSSHV off him since he finished his DIY T2. I got my deposit in for a pair of Sr-009s at price Japan to get in line, and I ordered a pair of Sr-307s from them as we'll to use while I wait for the 009s. I know I couldn't bare having an amazing electrostat amp sitting on my desk with no headphones to use with it


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Not sure about the ". ct ?"
> 
> Any other markings, colored bands?


 
  It's black in colour, bluish text and single band on the polarity side of the diode. See picture below.
  Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> Nearest I can find to "CT" is "color television" [for the use of] Germanium usually have a much higher frequency band width and speed than standard silicon diodes other than the ones like Shipsupt has said --Shottky  Diodes. So its possible that was what it was indicated for [very early use].


 
  Yeah I couldn't find anything online about the .cT extension after 309, but I did run into some 80v or so rated Toshiba diodes with the 309 extension online. What else is a bit suspicious is the legs on each of the 4 diodes look crispy burnt, but not completely black. I tried scratching it with the end of a Philips head screwdriver to see if it just dust and burnt flux or so and it doesn't come quite easily.
   
  Anyway here's some pictures (used sticky tape to stick them on so picked up some velcro dust and hair fibers):
  

   

   

   

   

   

   
   
   
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> One small flaw to all of this... there is only one PSU for both channels.  Two caps stacked on top of the other, or one cap gives 315VDC and the other one on top of it also gives that too but since it's "ground" is 315V the output voltage is 630V.
> 
> No chance that there are Germanium diodes in this amp.  The one I restored had bog standard Si from Toshiba which I replaced with something similar.  Even the Stax amps from the late 60's has Si everything.
> 
> The problem is clearly in the amp section so look there.  Measure between the channels but a simple test of the output voltages will confirm that it at play here.


 
  Ok, so one PS for both channels. From what you're saying is that the two ELNA caps where one measures 315v(+) - 0vdc(-) and the other one (closest to the 600v B+ white wire) measures 630vdc (+) - 315vdc (-) is normal?
   
  I will measure all points once the replacement DMM comes in, but now that you've mentioned that something is possibly wrong with the amp section this is not good because this is where the 8 in total Sanken transistors are located at, since original replacements are near impossible to find are there any modern in production substitutes that will work in it's place?


----------



## spritzer

The blue die is a dead give away for a Toshiba diode.  They used 1S1830 in the SRA-12S which is very similar so 1N4007 will be fine. 
   
  That is how the PSU works, only two ways to generate 630VDC with electrolytic caps of this voltage rating and this is the cheap way. 
   
  You can always find subs but they will not be the same form factor or have the same pinouts.


----------



## DefQon

Ok thanks for the clearup. I'm guessing the diodes is fine then because the different measurements from the caps put me off a bit when measured. 
   
  Since there is not much info online how does one find or use some sort of website to find substitutes for:
   
  4 x Sanken 2SC1828 -
   
  4 x Sanken 2SD594 transistors?
   
  There is some info on the 2SC1828 but not a single bit on the 2SD594.


----------



## duncan1

DefQon- 2SC1828--[in my German equivalent book]= BUV36/BUX84/85/ 2SC3149/2SC3352.-----2SD594-=BSW51/52BSY58/2N2218/19. Remember unlike tubes where you can "get away" with putting a different tube into the tube socket[within reason] Solid state active devices all have some difference-manufacturer to manufacturer . But those mentioned should work okay.In large power amps [solid state] for loudspeakers you CANT get away with just "trying out" different  output devices SS[and I have built and repaired many] are TUNED to the circuit and the active devices that's why comp caps/local feedback caps are fitted. The better the amp the less comp caps required--means the engineer has spent some time rearranging the circuit and choosing quality active devices SUITED to the circuit being built. I still have my --SRD-7SB- bypassed the switch with solid core cable/ uprated some components. But don't use it now.That black deposit is old age forms on many components like that a type of oxidization.---I forgot to add indiscriminate changing of output devices without any checking if they are compatible   in many cases produces a VERY large high frequency    sine wave output running the output devices into "overdrive" blowing them all and usually taking out the drivers too!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> DefQon- 2SC1828--[in my German equivalent book]= BUV36/BUX84/85/ 2SC3149/2SC3352.-----2SD594-=BSW51/52BSY58/2N2218/19. Remember unlike tubes where you can "get away" with putting a different tube into the tube socket[within reason] Solid state active devices all have some difference-manufacturer to manufacturer . But those mentioned should work okay.In large power amps [solid state] for loudspeakers you CANT get away with just "trying out" different  output devices SS[and I have built and repaired many] are TUNED to the circuit and the active devices that's why comp caps/local feedback caps are fitted. The better the amp the less comp caps required--means the engineer has spent some time rearranging the circuit and choosing quality active devices SUITED to the circuit being built. I still have my --SRD-7SB- bypassed the switch with solid core cable/ uprated some components. But don't use it now.That black deposit is old age forms on many components like that a type of oxidization.


 
  Thanks for that duncan. After just a brief few moments of google searching and rummaging around with RFQ's to various suppliers that may have some of the original Sanken ones. I've looked just for the 2SC1828 and 2SC594's in general without the Sanken prefix.
   
  2SC1828 did not return any results besides this pdf file of another equivalent manufacturer of the same transistor type:
   
http://elcodis.com/parts/6019088/2SC1828.html#datasheet
   
  Now searching onto the 2SC594's brought in a bit more light. Seem's there are current equivalents to this particular power transistor
   
  Equivalent:
http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1902
   
  And here is one ebay'er selling some NJS 2SC594's.
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2SC594-TRANSISTOR-NJS-SCARE-VINTAGE-NOS-AV-31-/110978312813
   
  Really itching to just buy a few and try it out, since I assume the worst that can happen is smoked resistors, diodes and possibly blown transistors. I have replacement resistors and soon diodes to be ready at hand.
   
  What I need is the original Sanken spec/technical sheets so I can compare the values/ratings besides just dropping in the same physical size/connector/pin out replacement.


----------



## duncan1

I tried--www.data sheet archive for Sanken but its mainly a on line equivalent book - DO NOT BUY from VETCO!!!- no manufacturer in their right mind would produce as long a list of equivalents as on that website must be a retailer.-Just scrolling through some ""equivalents" shows differences in bandwidth/gain /speed/ and capacitance/etc some would definitely make your amp unstable. Quality equivalent book companies have maybe 4 or five -CLOSE equivalents.Elcodis is very near but leaves out bandwidth and speed and check gain.That's why I bought German equivalent books- The German mind  in engineering is "right on the money" they "get it right" its like a religion for them it would be a "disgrace" if they got any type of engineering wrong.---2SC594--= in German book=60V- 0.2A-0.75W-30/280NS[that means its for high frequency use] so in its day it was and still is a GOOD quality component--remember equivalents might not have the same speed.In my English equivalents book--2SC594=the SAME as the German book BUT beware after the transistor number there are letters -R-Y-O--do NOT buy these as these have LOWER gain than the basic 594 --- 2SC1828=800V-1A-40W-7MHZ[German book]-English book-=same except-4MHZ bandwidth-bias-200MA .Still shocked at that company above. People post on this website to gain information and help. They arent helping anyone.Just trying to up the profit$$$.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Definitely.
> 
> I am a treble-head tho.
> FWIW, the Stax expert Spritzer likes it too.
> ...


 
  Same here, still rocking the SR507, it's a wonderful stat! And the 006TS is perfect for it. But of course for less money you can be a proud owner of vintage stax. Proud of course because when you get it to work you are Lucky.


----------



## Chris J

duncan1 said:


> The unregulated power supply worry about over voltage is mostly unfounded as although you measure over voltage that voltage is mainly the stored energy in the  output smoothing cap.and amounts to very little current not enough to blow fuses or destroy an amp.
> Having said that I only use fully regulated supplies for "peace of mind" and a MUCH LOWER ripple current-thats where regulation[by a quality supply] beats unregulated.





Your note about the unregulated power supply makes no sense.
There is always the potential to damage Electrical components from overvoltage.
Have you ever heard of ICs being damaged by static electricity, for example?


----------



## duncan1

Cris J -Have I ever heard of components damaged by static--??????-ARE YOU KIDDING??? I have a COMPLETE static free layout for an industrial workbench including for the top to work on and on the floor static mat under the bench Been using it for 30 years!! I will repeat  as you dont get it the VERY small amount of current that makes a unregulated power supply measure over voltage does NOT constitute enough for causing damage to equipment. If you were right this World would be full of claims by users that--"the UNREGULATED SUPPLY--BLEW MY EQUIPMENT- I dont know what power supplies you are used to but I have been building them since 1961 and have NEVER blown equipment. Its possible shady dealers are selling DEFECTIVE power supplies now a days but they wont last long in business as there are Worldwide  INTERNATIONAL LAWS on the standard of  power supplies and that includes NON-REGULATED.


----------



## mechgamer123

souprknowva said:


> Ill be joining the stax team soon enough! I'm buying GeorgeP's old KGSSHV off him since he finished his DIY T2. I got my deposit in for a pair of Sr-009s at price Japan to get in line, and I ordered a pair of Sr-307s from them as we'll to use while I wait for the 009s. I know I couldn't bare having an amazing electrostat amp sitting on my desk with no headphones to use with it



Wow, nice Mami avatar!
-Insert shameless plug for the anime thread here-
That's quite an upgrade from the HD598 to the SR-009! :eek:


----------



## EveTan

Finally got my 202s today.
   
  One side kind of slides whenever I wear it though. Is it possible to lock the position of the headband adjusters?


----------



## SoupRKnowva

mechgamer123 said:


> Wow, nice Mami avatar!
> -Insert shameless plug for the anime thread here-
> That's quite an upgrade from the HD598 to the SR-009! :eek:




Haha thanks! It's probably my favorite Mami pic 

Yeah the 009s were a headphone I always knew I had to have. And then I got out of headphones for speakers, but now I got orders to Korea so I need headphones again, so of course I'm going with the 009s, it was love at first listen for me with them...


----------



## DefQon

There is a screw that secures a spring loaded latch which slides inside locking the headband in place. Tighten that screw with the correct tipped screwdriver, but not too tight.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Heh, I actually just finished rewatching Madoka for the 3rd time today! :3
   
  Ah okay, that makes sense that you went into speaker land instead of directly upgrading to the 009. 
  And wow, orders to Korea from the Air Force... Good luck man!
  In other news, I just got the SR-507 pads for my SR-202s from a friend in Japan for 5k yen off Amazon jp. I'm not going to blow smoke out my arse and say they sound 10000000x better than the stock pads, but they needed to be changed and these definitely fit the bill.


----------



## DefQon

Blowing smoke out of your arse aye? Takes effort.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> There is a screw that secures a spring loaded latch which slides inside locking the headband in place. Tighten that screw with the correct tipped screwdriver, but not too tight.


 
  Hmm, it seems to be bugged. Defective. As much as I tighten it, it still slides up with ease.
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Heh, I actually just finished rewatching Madoka for the 3rd time today! :3
> 
> Ah okay, that makes sense that you went into speaker land instead of directly upgrading to the 009.
> And wow, orders to Korea from the Air Force... Good luck man!
> In other news, I just got the SR-507 pads for my SR-202s from a friend in Japan for 5k yen off Amazon jp. I'm not going to blow smoke out my arse and say they sound 10000000x better than the stock pads, but they needed to be changed and these definitely fit the bill.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Heh, I actually just finished rewatching Madoka for the 3rd time today! :3
> 
> Ah okay, that makes sense that you went into speaker land instead of directly upgrading to the 009.
> And wow, orders to Korea from the Air Force... Good luck man!
> In other news, I just got the SR-507 pads for my SR-202s from a friend in Japan for 5k yen off Amazon jp. I'm not going to blow smoke out my arse and say they sound 10000000x better than the stock pads, but they needed to be changed and these definitely fit the bill.


 
   
  Depends on which type of stock pad you started off with; I believe the earlier SR-202s came with thicker pads than the later ones.


----------



## EveTan

And the Older Lambda style pads are even thicker. 
   
  As much as I love the feel of the leather pads, the constant pressure of the drivers on my ears just can't stand it. 
   
  The vintage pads defintitely give slightly more earoom. although my ears still touch the drivers. However, the pain is more bearable now.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





evetan said:


> And the Older Lambda style pads are even thicker.
> 
> As much as I love the feel of the leather pads, the constant pressure of the drivers on my ears just can't stand it.
> 
> The vintage pads defintitely give slightly more earoom. although my ears still touch the drivers. However, the pain is more bearable now.


 
  What are you using for the amp? As in 120 V vs 100 V differences?


----------



## jjinh

If anyone's got an SR5 there's this reasonably rare thing on fleabay


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What are you using for the amp? As in 120 V vs 100 V differences?


 
  I'm currently ruining the amp by plugging it in directly. 
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> If anyone's got an SR5 there's this reasonably rare thing on fleabay


 
  What  does that do? Never heard of an ED before.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I'm currently ruining the amp by plugging it in directly.
> 
> What  does that do? Never heard of an ED before.


 
   
  I believe a diffuse field equaliser tries to mimic the sensation of listening to a pair of speakers. The ED-5 was made to be paired with the SR-5 headphones. JohnBuchanan posts about diffuse field equalisation here but it just goes over my head...
   
  With your 202s I was going to suggest that perhaps the spring was missing but I just had a quick look and it appears the new arcs dont have a spring?? As a temporary fix you could maybe stick a length of scotch tape on the rail on which it slides too much - this should be reversible. Or maybe paint the inside of the rail with a thin layer of, say, clear nail polish if you've got some with you (non-reversible). Please note I havent tried any of this stuff before, so yeh.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Depends on which type of stock pad you started off with; I believe the earlier SR-202s came with thicker pads than the later ones.


 
  The earlier 202's did indeed come with thicker/denser foamed pads that came with the vintage Lambda line. My 202's S/N B1381 came with them. But I ended up swapping it out for the newer 202 pads because one of the pads had a small tiny puncture.
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> Hmm, it seems to be bugged. Defective. As much as I tighten it, it still slides up with ease.


 
  Post some pictures.
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> If anyone's got an SR5 there's this reasonably rare thing on fleabay


 
  Was going to bid on those but the quote DHL shipping to Aus is not cheap at all. Not to mention I don't have the SRD-6 to match with my SR-5's.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I believe a diffuse field equaliser tries to mimic the sensation of listening to a pair of speakers.


 
  Not sure about that, but the ED-1's for the Lambda Pro's was designed to make the Lambda Pro's produce a more flatter response.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> The earlier 202's did indeed come with thicker/denser foamed pads that came with the vintage Lambda line. My 202's S/N B1381 came with them. But I ended up swapping it out for the newer 202 pads because one of the pads had a small tiny puncture.


 
   
  Which do you find more comfortable? I like the older style pads.


----------



## DefQon

I prefer the old pads by a long shot, unfortunately the left side of mine came shoddy and bit squashed.


----------



## mechgamer123

jjinh said:


> mechgamer123 said:
> 
> 
> > Heh, I actually just finished rewatching Madoka for the 3rd time today! :3
> ...



Even though ingot the 2020 system, I believe they were the newer pads. I didn't really notice a difference in thickness.
I might just pay someone to make me some nice thick pads in the future


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> I tried--www.data sheet archive for Sanken but its mainly a on line equivalent book - DO NOT BUY from VETCO!!!- no manufacturer in their right mind would produce as long a list of equivalents as on that website must be a retailer.-Just scrolling through some ""equivalents" shows differences in bandwidth/gain /speed/ and capacitance/etc some would definitely make your amp unstable. Quality equivalent book companies have maybe 4 or five -CLOSE equivalents.Elcodis is very near but leaves out bandwidth and speed and check gain.That's why I bought German equivalent books- The German mind  in engineering is "right on the money" they "get it right" its like a religion for them it would be a "disgrace" if they got any type of engineering wrong.---2SC594--= in German book=60V- 0.2A-0.75W-30/280NS[that means its for high frequency use] so in its day it was and still is a GOOD quality component--remember equivalents might not have the same speed.In my English equivalents book--2SC594=the SAME as the German book BUT beware after the transistor number there are letters -R-Y-O--do NOT buy these as these have LOWER gain than the basic 594 --- 2SC1828=800V-1A-40W-7MHZ[German book]-English book-=same except-4MHZ bandwidth-bias-200MA .Still shocked at that company above. People post on this website to gain information and help. They arent helping anyone.Just trying to up the profit$$$.


 
  Sorry I meant 2SD594 not 2SC594. 
   
  I found a Sanken 2SC1828 but looks to be TO-220 form factor rather than TO-66. I've shot a message to the seller to confirm if genuine Sanken and a drop replacement (wiring appropriately to the right legs) would suffice.
   
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290942052031
   
   
  So far, no luck on 2SD594's.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Blowing smoke out of your arse aye? Takes effort.


 
   
  ...AND  control!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





milosz said:


> ...AND  control!


----------



## MDR30

Bedside bundle.


----------



## Chris J

duncan1 said:


> Cris J -Have I ever heard of components damaged by static--??????-ARE YOU KIDDING??? I have a COMPLETE static free layout for an industrial workbench including for the top to work on and on the floor static mat under the bench Been using it for 30 years!! I will repeat  as you dont get it the VERY small amount of current that makes a unregulated power supply measure over voltage does NOT constitute enough for causing damage to equipment. If you were right this World would be full of claims by users that--"the UNREGULATED SUPPLY--BLEW MY EQUIPMENT- I dont know what power supplies you are used to but I have been building them since 1961 and have NEVER blown equipment. Its possible shady dealers are selling DEFECTIVE power supplies now a days but they wont last long in business as there are Worldwide  INTERNATIONAL LAWS on the standard of  power supplies and that includes NON-REGULATED.




Sorry man, but your earlier statement implied that it's OK to use an unregulated power supply designed for 100 Vac primary on a 120 Vac sourcd with an SRM-252S.

I'm with KG and Spritzer on this one:
I'm going to stick with the 120 Vac supply I received with SRS-2170.
A good alternative would be a regulated 12 Vdc supply with a 120 Vac input.

And yes I do have experience with CSA, UL, CE and SMPS thank you very much.


----------



## duncan1

DefQon-Spent about an hour searching for -2SD594-obsolete! I checked UK companies and US BUT my equivalent books list ONE equivalent  and lucky enough its American=2N5013- it that or nothing but it is very close to the spec of 2SD594. Can be bought from=SSDI .com[solid state devices 14830 valley view blvd la Miranda CA} Hope they aren't sold out. This bjt-" SD594 was used in early transistorized TVs and some other high voltage applications[now obsolete] So manufacturers don't think its viable produce them.Best of luck with the  2N5013. --Just add the 2SC1828 in new form should be okay if a company changed the build spec.  to more modern spec.  it always kept the spec. of the electrical characteristics the same as manufacturers ordered them in their thousands for their equipment which was a good seller they did not want to incur more finance by redesigning the electrical circuit so it should be identical.to the old shape spec.


----------



## EveTan

Has anyone DIYed thicker Lambda pads before?


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Not sure about that, but the ED-1's for the Lambda Pro's was designed to make the Lambda Pro's produce a more flatter response.


 
  It was actually designed to bend the frequency responses of the SR5 (ED-5), Lambda Pro (ED-1) and Lambda Signature (ED-Signature) to a target frequency response, not a measured flat response.


----------



## autoteleology

Question: How does output current relate to electrostatic headphones? I know in dynamics, voltage is essentially volume and current is like torque, but I have no idea how those concepts translate to electrostats.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> DefQon-Spent about an hour searching for -2SD594-obsolete! I checked UK companies and US BUT my equivalent books list ONE equivalent  and lucky enough its American=2N5013- it that or nothing but it is very close to the spec of 2SD594. Can be bought from=SSDI .com[solid state devices 14830 valley view blvd la Miranda CA} Hope they aren't sold out. This bjt-" SD594 was used in early transistorized TVs and some other high voltage applications[now obsolete] So manufacturers don't think its viable produce them.Best of luck with the  2N5013. --Just add the 2SC1828 in new form should be okay if a company changed the build spec.  to more modern spec.  it always kept the spec. of the electrical characteristics the same as manufacturers ordered them in their thousands for their equipment which was a good seller they did not want to incur more finance by redesigning the electrical circuit so it should be identical.to the old shape spec.


 
  Thanks for that Duncan, I've requested a quote through SSDI to see if they have at least 4 2N5013's in stock, hopefully a good response from them. Even the 2N5013 is discontinued and bit hard to find but I have so far found 1 source (semiconductor500) selling them but at a pricey $22.00 per unit (almost a $100 for 4 of them). 
   
  On the other hand, the ebay seller with the TO-220 2SC1828 replied back to me today, with bad news. 
   
   


> Thanks for letting us know about this item. It is a 2SC1826 not a 2SC1828. The last digit is hard to read and we had to look closer.
> 
> These are the TO-220 style.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  So unfortunately it was a mistake on there behalf. 
   
  From your books, are there any modern American near equivalent of the 2SC1828 that might be obtainable?
   
  MCM Electronics seems to stock a substitute for the 2SC1828 which is the NTE369 also in TO-66 shape spec:
   
  Datasheet:
   
  http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/ProductData/Spec%20Sheets/NTE369.pdf
   
  By clicking on the right hand side substitute to directs you to the NTE page where the spec rating looks about identical.
   
  http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/DISTRIBUTED-BY-MCM-SANKEN-/2SC1828
   
   
   
 John Buchanan  





> It was actually designed to bend the frequency responses of the SR5 (ED-5), Lambda Pro (ED-1) and Lambda Signature (ED-Signature) to a target frequency response, not a measured flat response.


 
   
   
  Thanks for the clarification. I have read some of the past explanations here and all them was a bit different in explaining what it actually does but supposedly something to do with the flat response recorded by a microphone and produced by a speaker was tonally different to that of the earspeakers so the diffuse field box was used to linearate the sound a bit more or something. :S


----------



## mrAdrian

One hour left.
   
  What do you think about this auction?
   
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stax-Lambda-Earspeakers-with-SRD-7-SB-Driver-unit-And-Manuals-/151080723483?pt=AU_headphone&hash=item232d1ce41b&_uhb=1


----------



## nick n

Isn't that a_ Pro-bias headphone_ ( can't see the pins just the manual ) with a _Normal bias adaptor_ there...if that matters to you. If it IS  it'll still work . Just not as well as it was designed to since normal-bias adaptors give you about HALF thevolts of the pro-bias headphones (pro= ~580 volts.)( unless I'm braindead at the moment )
  As well wall-powered adaptors are supposed to be a bit better ( according to some folks in here ) than the self-biased versions. Though not had a self bias before only wall powered myself. Something else to consider.


----------



## mrAdrian

Ah oh well my sanity had won over my temptations. Money saved!


----------



## DefQon

They are actually normal/low-bias original Lambda's with no channel imbalance (so the seller says) with the Lambda Pro manual book. I was bidding on those but decided not to increase my bids anymore as few things came to mind about these normal bias headphones.


----------



## jjinh

So what was wrong with that pair of headphones? I was thinking of bidding, then thought I already dont use my pair of lambda normals so nope.


----------



## nick n

Did that seller know what he was looking at, as in number of pins? ( Odd about the manual being different.)  Oh well it's all done now.  What was bugging you regarding the normal version? ( besides missing the box and condition )


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> So what was wrong with that pair of headphones? I was thinking of bidding, then thought I already dont use my pair of lambda normals so nope.


 
  Well I sold my original Lambda's off because I wanted 'moar'. Now that I'm used to my 202's, it is night and day difference better than the Lambda's I had from memory. Not to mention it's normal/low-bias so if anything stuffs up, replacements are near impossible unless buying a set and butcher parts from it spritzer style.
   
  Quote: 





nick n said:


> Did that seller know what he was looking at, as in number of pins? ( Odd about the manual being different.)  Oh well it's all done now.  What was bugging you regarding the normal version? ( besides missing the box and condition )


 
  I asked the seller if it had 5 or 6 pins, he said it had 6. Yeah I'm looking for another Lambda w/org box and all. Just to listen to it again and collecting.


----------



## Chris J

tus-chan said:


> Question: How does output current relate to electrostatic headphones? I know in dynamics, voltage is essentially volume and current is like torque, but I have no idea how those concepts translate to electrostats.




I can't really respond to the torque analogy, I'm not a mechanical guy, but Voltage X Current = Power for electrostatic and dynamic headphones.
Electrostatic headphones work at a much higher voltsge level than dynamic headphones, but electrostatic headphones draw very little current.
The drivers in dynamic headphones and dynamic headphones both have mass, and you need power to move and control that mass.

Maybe someone else has a better answer......?


----------



## 3X0

Never really understood electrostatic amplification either. All I know that the concept of "reference" amplification is much more nebulous and less well-understood than such amplification for dynamic drivers (e.g. Objective 2).


----------



## davidsh

AFAIK electrostats don't rely on current at all to produce sound. They only rely on voltage, so more voltage = louder, but not because of the power increase as with normal headphones. In general we are talking very high impedance with stats because current isn't really needed when you want a electrostatic field, and lower impedance would just make the hole thing discharge way faster and therefore you would need more power to keep up the charge, since the charge relys on the voltage. That is my understanding... Think of static electricity.


----------



## wink

Quote:mrAdrian 





> Ah oh well my sanity had won over my temptations. Money saved!


 
  That's just NOT in the spirit of Head-Fi.
   
  That sort of behaviour will set a bad example to all the newbies who come here.


----------



## wink

Electrostatic phones are capacitors, and they do require current flow to charge them up and discharge/recharge when the polarity of the voltage reverses.


----------



## mrAdrian

Quote: 





wink said:


> That's just NOT in the spirit of Head-Fi.
> 
> That sort of behaviour will set a bad example to all the newbies who come here.


 
   
  Haha maybe I should simply knock on your doors if I want some Stax good time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I'm certain that you will let me in because there's only a few different ways to access your headphones be it allowed or forbidden


----------



## spritzer

The short answer for all of this would be Ohm's law.  As the impedance changes with frequency by quite a large margin then you need to have current reserves so the voltage doesn't "sag".  If voltage is a constant (i.e. volume) then the current must increase with decreasing impedance. 
 Naturally things are quite a bit more complex in real life and even the given capacitor model doesn't fully work as it can't account for the mechanical variation at play here. 
   
  When we talk about current and electrostatics we don't normally mean the transducers but rather the amps and their standing power.  This is how much power they can muster at max voltage swing but this is just one indicator as to how they will actually perform.  Take two examples that can be made to look pretty much identical, WES and the ESX (the rebuilt Single Power amps).  Both amps use the same tubes and even if they were run at the same power levels (they aren't though) the ESX would always outperform the WES. 
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Never really understood electrostatic amplification either. All I know that the concept of "reference" amplification is much more nebulous and less well-understood than such amplification for dynamic drivers (e.g. Objective 2).


 
   
  The Objective 2 is no way reference anything.  It's a badly done pile of parts that sounds just like the crap circuit design.  Even single chip amps perform better than that garbage. 
   
  If there was such a thing as a reference design then it would be the Dynahi.  It has even been cloned into one of the most popular opamps in current use...


----------



## davidsh

Please explain some more on the O2! Would really like to know what makes it bad and how should it be better?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Please explain some more on the O2! Would really like to know what makes it bad and how should it be better?


 
  Oh you don't know? The O2 is probably the worst amplifier out there and all of the measurements are made up. Reference amp? Pshaw, you would have to be an idiot to think the O2 is a reference amp.


----------



## gefski

I've had SR40 and 80 for years driven through the adaptors. Now have a new 407 driven by a used SRM1 MK2 Pro using the 580v outlet. When adjusting them on my head I found that a push toward the center on either side gives a momentary static sound. I see that the Ken Rockwell site says the diaphragm is just moving and discharging the polarizing voltage--no harm done.

Could I get some comments from you experts (other than to sit perfectly still)---any concerns about this? The 407s are new, so under warranty as necessary. Thanks!


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Oh you don't know? The O2 is probably the worst amplifier out there and all of the measurements are made up. Reference amp? Pshaw, you would have to be an idiot to think the O2 is a reference amp.



 
 I am a LONG way away from being an O2 fanboy..........but anyway, just curious. Why do you say that a lot of the measurements are made up? Like I said, I'm not an O2 fan boy, just curious. We're getting off topic, maybe you can PM me?


----------



## telecaster

The Creator of the O2 is a obscure man that spread BS info on HF and frankly kudos to him because lots of people actually believed all this crap!


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The Objective 2 is no way reference anything.  It's a badly done pile of parts that sounds just like the crap circuit design.  Even single chip amps perform better than that garbage.
> If there was such a thing as a reference design then it would be the Dynahi.  It has even been cloned into one of the most popular opamps in current use...


 
  But it measures so well! Even in independent testing (e.g. InnerFidelity) the Objective 2 has shown excellent linearity and low distortion.
   
  I'm not complaining with your assessment since the topology of my current (pre-)amplifier is pretty similar to the Dynalo.


----------



## davidsh

chris j said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Oh you don't know? The O2 is probably the worst amplifier out there and all of the measurements are made up. Reference amp? Pshaw, you would have to be an idiot to think the O2 is a reference amp. :rolleyes:
> ...



I guess he's being sarcastic.


----------



## duncan1

DefQon-- Yes the NTE369 would work  it   has a gain of 30 compared to the 2SC1828 which has a range of 30--200 at 200MA bias But there is little or no choice . I went through the books the nearest I came up with- which has =800V/low amps/gain at bias of 300MA AND 7MHZ. is=  BUW84/85= 800/400-max current 2 amps-50W -FT-20MHZ-gain of 50 at 100MA bias which is a higher gain for equivalent bias and a FT of 20MHZ  which is good for what it is.. But it is a UK/EU type. It is also a SOT  82 build like a TO247[TOP3] build  -with if I remember fully plastic enclosed [requiring no mica washer etc to insulate it.]  And thats after  checking out 1000s.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yeah I was being sarcastic. I don't care for NwAvGuy's attitude, but saying the O2 is a piece of schiit makes no sense.


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





gefski said:


> I've had SR40 and 80 for years driven through the adaptors. Now have a new 407 driven by a used SRM1 MK2 Pro using the 580v outlet. When adjusting them on my head I found that a push toward the center on either side gives a momentary static sound. I see that the Ken Rockwell site says the diaphragm is just moving and discharging the polarizing voltage--no harm done.
> 
> Could I get some comments from you experts (other than to sit perfectly still)---any concerns about this? The 407s are new, so under warranty as necessary. Thanks!


 
   
  Sounds like the stax fart to me, which is just the dust cover on the driver crinkling.


----------



## mechgamer123

gefski said:


> I've had SR40 and 80 for years driven through the adaptors. Now have a new 407 driven by a used SRM1 MK2 Pro using the 580v outlet. When adjusting them on my head I found that a push toward the center on either side gives a momentary static sound. I see that the Ken Rockwell site says the diaphragm is just moving and discharging the polarizing voltage--no harm done.
> 
> Could I get some comments from you experts (other than to sit perfectly still)---any concerns about this? The 407s are new, so under warranty as necessary. Thanks!



Yup, sounds like the Sfax fart. Completely normal.
By the way, where are you located in the Pacific Northwest?


----------



## gefski

mechgamer123 said:


> Yup, sounds like the Sfax fart. Completely normal.
> By the way, where are you located in the Pacific Northwest?



 
 Thanks loligagger and mechgamer123! I'm in Bothell sometimes and Nine Mile Falls, our lake place, now. And where is the friendliest small town?


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Yeah I was being sarcastic. I don't care for NwAvGuy's attitude, but saying the O2 is a piece of schiit makes no sense.



 
 Ohhhhh......call me embarrassed. Kind of funny because I have posted a few digs at the O2 fan boys on Head Fi myself! Yep, NWAVGuy can be a bit much at times.


----------



## autoteleology

Does anyone else share the same experience as I do with the O2 in that it lacks detail? I found it to be quite lacking, even compared to a very poorly measuring Little Dot 1+.


----------



## bearFNF

Just got back yesterday from the meet in Minneapolis and had a few good comments about he Stax lambda normal bias I brought.  We were comparing it to HD800's, HE500s, HE400's, and a host of others.  The old phones still got it...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  even driven off a cheap T32 amp...


----------



## DefQon

I'm happy man today.


----------



## shipsupt

Do tell?


----------



## miceblue

Did someone get laid while listening to glorious STAX?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> DefQon-- Yes the NTE369 would work  it   has a gain of 30 compared to the 2SC1828 which has a range of 30--200 at 200MA bias But there is little or no choice . I went through the books the nearest I came up with- which has =800V/low amps/gain at bias of 300MA AND 7MHZ. is=  BUW84/85= 800/400-max current 2 amps-50W -FT-20MHZ-gain of 50 at 100MA bias which is a higher gain for equivalent bias and a FT of 20MHZ  which is good for what it is.. But it is a UK/EU type. It is also a SOT  82 build like a TO247[TOP3] build  -with if I remember fully plastic enclosed [requiring no mica washer etc to insulate it.]  And thats after  checking out 1000s.


 
  Thanks a lot, I've got good news and after going through hades these past few days 5-6 hours of searching and calling American suppliers if they have it, I've got 2 quotes from two separate companies saying they have stock. Original Sanken TO-66 1828 pieces too. Although no luck on the 2SD594 yet.
   
  One supplier:
   
   


> Good news first.  Shopping cart is working. I have several orders in hand. You need to create an account to place an order.
> Next, I do have the following
> 
> 2SC1828                 TO-66        US $ 3.10 each  in stock, yes original Sanken
> ...


 
   
  And the quote price of another supplier:
   
   


> We have received your Request for Quote, and we are happy to quote you the following:
> 
> 
> *[size=9pt]Quote ID[/size]*
> ...


 
  Really stunned by the price difference of the two suppliers. Definitely going with the first option except they have a minimum order of $25.00 and no clue how much international shipping is. I'm going to buy half there stock to future proof myself.
   
  With the BUW84/85, these turned up with no results despite having the closest tech spec ratings to the original Sanken.
   
  But a big thanks to you for the help and information. 
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Does anyone else share the same experience as I do with the O2 in that it lacks detail? I found it to be quite lacking, even compared to a very poorly measuring Little Dot 1+.


 
  I wouldn't say the O2 is a piece of crap, it's pretty good for it's base DIY price it's worth $30-60 even less if you have some of the parts on hand, but the circuit design is horrible, I mean power jack at the front?.
   
  What I really disliked about this whole O2 BS, is nwavguy going as far egotistically claiming, "you won't hear a difference between my new near perfect measurement amp and a $3000 high end amp", all he cared for is low distortion and THD figures, you ask any designer out there and they will tell you that a perfectly low distortioned measured amp does not equate to better sound, it just doesn't work which is why soundwise I think the O2 is pretty bad if put up against amp's costing a little bit more to high end category that I have owned/tried.
   
  And onto to this ODAC design and measurements, there are DAC's out there costing less that measure better than the ODAC and have been on the market for almost a decade, perfect THD figures, low distortion, no clipping at certain rated db's, tomb posted this a while ago.
   
  The Magni costing less does better than the O2, not to mention packing a little bit of power punch to it. The O2 is not a reference to anything, don't fall for nwavguys bs.
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Do tell?


 
  In my email today:
   

   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Did someone get laid while listening to glorious STAX?


 
  Pfft...no woman will ever get near my glorious Stax.


----------



## EveTan

What's the best way of transporting a Stax unit safely? (small amp + headphone)


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





gefski said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I'm in Walla Walla right now but I'll be attending the University of Washington in Seattle next year.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  LOL, Nice!!!! SR-009 time!


----------



## miceblue

evetan said:


> What's the best way of transporting a Stax unit safely? (small amp + headphone)




Lugia wrapped his in a bunch of towels and put them in a travelling suitcase with wheels. 





@ defqon

Isn't it bad to post all of that info in a public forum...?

I mean it's not like it doesn't show up on Google or anything.


----------



## gilency

2 of my kids went to Walla Walla.
Nice town, friendly, great farmers market and little restaurants. Great pizza too


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Lugia wrapped his in a bunch of towels and put them in a travelling suitcase with wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  It's a scam


----------



## rgs9200m

Other than the SR009s, has Stax advanced in the last decade? 
  I mean, back in the late 1990s, there was a lot of debate whether the SR007s or Lambdas were nicer than a Senn 600 with a very good tube amp.
   
  Since then, there have been lots of new dynamic flagship phones (some in several generations) that leave the Senn 600s (or equivalent phones at that time) in the dust,
  but the main Staxes to compare these to are still the SR007 Mark 1s or the even older Lambdas.
   
  (Of course, getting the right amp for the 009s is still somewhat controversial and there does not seem to be a universally agreed-upon perfect match, but that's another story.)
   
  I guess I'm wondering if, in general, people still feel that the older Staxes are still preferable to the newer dynamics and there is something in the Stax electrostatic sound
  that dynamics just cannot offer, or at least have not offered yet. Clearly there is lots of love out there for the Stax sound, and I just wondered if they had done critical comparisons with the latest dynamics.
   
  Just asking. 
  (For the record, I have 009s.)


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





evetan said:


> What's the best way of transporting a Stax unit safely? (small amp + headphone)


 
   
  I either use a pelican case, with adjustable dividers/cut to fit foam, or my Lowepro camera case which is also customizable with adjustable dividers, depending on how I am traveling.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Other than the SR009s, has Stax advanced in the last decade?
> I mean, back in the late 1990s, there was a lot of debate whether the SR007s or Lambdas were nicer than a Senn 600 with a very good tube amp.
> 
> Since then, there have been lots of new dynamic flagship phones (some in several generations) that leave the Senn 600s (or equivalent phones at that time) in the dust,
> ...


 
  General consensus at the Minneapolis meet was that the LNB held its own against the other phones represented, they all had their strengths...and weaknesses.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





gilency said:


> 2 of my kids went to Walla Walla.
> Nice town, friendly, great farmers market and little restaurants. Great pizza too


 
  Did they go to Whitman College?
  Yeah, it's a pretty nice town. Probably not the friendliest small town in America, but whatever... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  And which pizza place are you referring to?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> What's the best way of transporting a Stax unit safely? (small amp + headphone)


 
  It's original box/packaging or pelican case.
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> LOL, Nice!!!! SR-009 time!


 
  Hell no!
   
  I will grab myself a 007 and buy back my Omega's and then grab two BHSE's one in silver and one in black because I like variety and (insert pkshan) the different colour coating on the amp could attribute to sonic improvements in sound. 
   
  Rest of the money I will use to travel the world and get my self lot's saki, women and sushi in Japan.
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> @ defqon
> 
> Isn't it bad to post all of that info in a public forum...?
> 
> I mean it's not like it doesn't show up on Google or anything.


 
  It's a scam bro.
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I guess I'm wondering if, in general, people still feel that the older Staxes are still preferable to the newer dynamics and there is something in the Stax electrostatic sound
> that dynamics just cannot offer, or at least have not offered yet. Clearly there is lots of love out there for the Stax sound, and I just wondered if they had done critical comparisons with the latest dynamics.


 
  To my ears everything apart from the HD580/600/650/800 and few other Sony/AKG and Audeze headphones are all crap compared to the old school stats. I for one have also compared some of the vintage stuff (as well as the stuff I own/owned) to the latest stuff. Everything has a bit of variety but you realise that for a $350-500 stat setup it sounds like a breather to the ears compared to the other crap at the same price or higher, like fail stuff from Final Audio (yeah because it sounds so bad for it's price) and the craptacular Ultrasone (be sure to have ringing in your ear's for the rest of your life).


----------



## The Monkey

^Agree.  If I had just started with a basic stat rig, I would have saved myself a lot of time, trouble, and money.


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Did they go to Whitman College?
> Yeah, it's a pretty nice town. Probably not the friendliest small town in America, but whatever...
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Walla Walla College.
  Sweet Basil. Right there in downtown. Forget the street name.
  Oh, and Seattle has the best piroshky this side of the Atlantic
  http://www.piroshkybakery.com/


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





the monkey said:


> ^Agree.  If I had just started with a basic stat rig, I would have saved myself a lot of time, trouble, and money.


 
  Indeed. Not to mention great resale value with the Stax/stat stuff.


----------



## EveTan

Is it strange that I found the 202s... to be a little lackluster? (I'm not a believer in amps just yet, but if someone kindly donates XD)


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ah, so they're in College Place right next to Walla Walla eh? Just like me! 
  And for the record it's now Walla Walla University.
  Haha, I haven't tried Sweet Basil out yet. I'll have to before I leave for college though, then when I get to Seattle I will definitely try that piroshky place out.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  My gawd. That was a beautiful speech. I completely agree.
   
  STAX > HiFiMan > HD800 > LCD-2/3 > K 701 > HD650 + blah other stuff


----------



## nemomec

Hello,
   
  i have a (big?) problem with my lovely old Lambda Signatures.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They plays wonderful for many hours but only after a minute on pluging into the amp! On pluging into the amp they plays to quiet and unbalanced then i wait a minute and all is fine. I have clean it, resoldering the contacts and testet different amps, no success. I haven´t also any hum or noise, they sounds perfect. I need help!?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## EveTan

Could that be because the amp wasn't warmed up beforehand?


----------



## nemomec

No the amp(s) was warmed befor i plugged in the signature.


----------



## deadlylover

> Originally Posted by *nemomec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> No the amp(s) was warmed befor i plugged in the signature.


 
   
  Sometimes on old Stax it takes a while for the diaphragm to be charged up.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Hello,
> 
> i have a (big?) problem with my lovely old Lambda Signatures.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Just deal with it - wait until the headphones get charged up.
  This is a common problem with old electrostatic headphones.
  Some of them can take hours or days until they are ready to listen too.
  The issue has to do with degradation over time of the conductive coating on the diaphragm.


----------



## nemomec

Thanks there are good news! I drive the signatures on a srm-t1s there are need a few minutes to warm up the tubes and then the signatures are also ready.


----------



## n3rdling

Those two are a great combination


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> My gawd. That was a beautiful speech. I completely agree.
> 
> STAX > HiFiMan > HD800 > LCD-2/3 > K 701 > HD650 + blah other stuff


 
  No no no, you're getting it all wrong.
   
  Speakers > everything else. In terms of complete neutrality, the HD800 would be 3rd or so from the O2's and maybe 009. All else are crap, crap crap crap!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Is it strange that I found the 202s... to be a little lackluster? (I'm not a believer in amps just yet, but if someone kindly donates XD)


 
  You need the T2 to make the 202's fully shine.


----------



## davidsh

The newer Stax stuff might be more refined, but I doubt it is superior to the old. I found some different lambdas from the x03 and x02 series to be almost on par with the beyer t1 and hd800 etc. last time I tried auditioning at a shop. A bit more specialized and excelling in what 'stats do best, therefore not as versatile as mentioned flagships, but on par when it comes to sound quality.

My Lambda Sig is plug and play, no charge time. When they take longer time to charge, I guess they also take a lot longer to discharge, right?


----------



## 3X0

Not sure about that. My HE60 have a channel imbalance, take some time to fully charge, and don't take too long to discharge as well.

Speaking of which, is a turn-off hiss normal for electrostatics? My SRM-T1 has the volume control removed from the circuit and whenever I turn it off I get a wavy and tapering hiss in the left and right channels that lasts for a a little under a second. It's quiet, but noticeable.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Not sure about that. My HE60 have a channel imbalance, take some time to fully charge, and don't take too long to discharge as well.
> 
> Speaking of which, is a turn-off hiss normal for electrostatics? My SRM-T1 has the volume control removed from the circuit and whenever I turn it off I get a wavy and tapering hiss in the left and right channels that lasts for a a little under a second. It's quiet, but noticeable.


 
  Happens for me with the t1 too, though only occasionally. That is with the volume turned all the way down.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> The newer Stax stuff might be more refined, but I doubt it is superior to the old. I found some different lambdas from the x03 and x02 series to be almost on par with the beyer t1 and hd800 etc. last time I tried auditioning at a shop. A bit more specialized and excelling in what 'stats do best, therefore not as versatile as mentioned flagships, but on par when it comes to sound quality.
> 
> My Lambda Sig is plug and play, no charge time. When they take longer time to charge, I guess they also take a lot longer to discharge, right?


 
  If you're saying the 20/3/4/507 series being more refined and superior to the older stuff, I disagree with this, the 207 sounds alright out of the bunch and the 407 too. But if you're saying the Omega and 009 not being more superior, you're wrong here, they are. Not by a lot though as the point of diminishing returns.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Happens for me with the t1 too, though only occasionally. That is with the volume turned all the way down.


 
  Wish I had the luxury of the volume control to check. I might suck it up, buy a soldering kit and open it up to see what I can do. From what I heard the SRM-T1s aren't terribly complex -- maybe I might just go to an electrician with the schematic and see what they can do (I bought it with the volume pot removed from the circuit).
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> If you're saying the 20/3/4/507 series being more refined and superior to the older stuff, I disagree with this, the 207 sounds alright out of the bunch and the 407 too. But if you're saying the Omega and 009 not being more superior, you're wrong here, they are. Not by a lot though as the point of diminishing returns.


 
  I gotta say I prefer the Lambda sound signature over the O2's, though I'm not sure how much of the latter is attributable to amplification.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> I gotta say I prefer the Lambda sound signature over the O2's, though I'm not sure how much of the latter is attributable to amplification.


 
  That's understandable I sort of prefer it as well for casual, fun and non critical listening sessions, but for electronic music and classical I'd pick the O2 over the Lambda.
   
  I think you will enjoy a pair of Omega's or 009 as they are a more refined Lambda. The O2 is odd duck out but comes alive once powered properly.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I think you will enjoy a pair of Omega's or 009 as they are a more refined Lambda. The O2 is odd duck out but comes alive once powered properly.


 
  I am inclined to believe the same. I have heard the sound signature of the HE60 to be compared to the SR-Omega at least once, but the problem is (1) picking up a pair at a decent price that (2) works and doesn't have O2 drivers and (3) acquiring amplification that would do them justice.
   
  Justifying the incremental expense has already become an issue as my T1/HE60 combo is already far too revealing of my recordings (I listen mostly to nu-jazz and instrumental hip-hop tracks). Pretty sure the SR-Omega or 009 would butcher them and I can't justify the outlay when I don't listen to well-recorded jazz or classical on the regular. Even some of the best-sounding electronic albums I have (e.g. Old Raves End) pale in comparison to Jazz at the Pawnshop as far as sound is concerned, but I don't listen to stuff like the latter at all.
   
  I anticipate my next and final step being something like an eXStatA hybrid or KGSSHV, then no more.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I meant the old lambdas compared to the newer lambdas, in the sense that Stax seem to have settled a bit more on a signature, diaphragm thickness, no Stax edge, etc...


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> But it measures so well! Even in independent testing (e.g. InnerFidelity) the Objective 2 has shown excellent linearity and low distortion.
> 
> I'm not complaining with your assessment since the topology of my current (pre-)amplifier is pretty similar to the Dynalo.


 
   
  There is a lot more to amp design than low THD.  All in all THD is a useless benchmark except to weed out the really disastrous circuits.  One springs to mind which Kevin sent my way.  Some guy had sent it to him to comment on and when run in simulation is has a THD of 200%... that's not a typo. 
   
  The normal ways to keep THD low have rather severe side effects and the "designer" didn't take any of the less used paths which do work better.  It's just a shoddy design with a lot of shortcuts and some aspects deemed not important when they clearly are.  All in all it's crap and you can do so much better for a low price.  Take the new Squarewave Kevin did from the old Single Power amps.  More power than the POS Liquid Gold, dirt cheap to build and a THD of 0.01%.  Fully discrete too so no opamps with all their issues.


----------



## davidsh

Shortcuts? Can the audible effects actually be measured?


----------



## duncan1

Yes davidsh -As Spritzer says the output of an amp is secondary to the input side that is where  nearly  all the design takes place and if it can be done without just  going by the book" a better outcome can be achieved I have been "going on" about that for years in other places but it does get you some enemies. I have a high regard for REAL innovation designers that  don't follow the "prescribed path" although they get "shot down" by others [no  names] who say MY standard circuit[Lin  probably] is "superior to yours" because it has 0.001 THD which thinking in the UK is no longer accepted.  Many great SOUNDING amps have a higher distortion. where it is an advantage is in a very low NOISE FLOOR but that can be achieved in other ways.[spending more money on TOP quality parts for one with built in low noise] active or otherwise . A lot of times it comes down to cost and how altruistic a retailer of a good design is.


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Is it strange that I found the 202s... to be a little lackluster? (I'm not a believer in amps just yet, but if someone kindly donates XD)


 
  Actually, the 202s don't improve all that much with better amps (I went from the 252 to the KGSSHV). There's a bit more control, but I can't say it's a lot better. All that said, the 202 is one of my favorites and I go back to it often even with my 007 for a different flavour (headstage is smaller but that intimacy sometimes work with certain music).
   
  What don't you like about it, though? Also, what's your source? That probably is a big variable.


----------



## miceblue

Regardless of the design, the O2 was tested and sounds transparent to the highly acclaimed DAC1 PRE, which was nearly 9 times the price at the time. If it sounds transparent next to that thing and you guys say the design is schiit, and blah blah blah is superior, then I'd like to see someone here build an audibly superior amp for a similar price with test subjects too.


----------



## Chris J

evetan said:


> Is it strange that I found the 202s... to be a little lackluster? (I'm not a believer in amps just yet, but if someone kindly donates XD)



 
 Interesting. Personally I prefer my SRS-2170 system over my AKG Q701 & Beyer DT880/600 Ohm, etc and various associated headphone amps. I find the SRS-2170 system to be very engaging, detailed, very nautural sounding and non-fatiguing. Let's just say all my dynamic 'phones are currently gathering dust....!


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Regardless of the design, the O2 was tested and sounds transparent to the highly acclaimed DAC1 PRE, which was nearly 9 times the price at the time. If it sounds transparent next to that thing and you guys say the design is schiit, and blah blah blah is superior, then I'd like to see someone here build an audibly superior amp for a similar price with test subjects too.



 
 I agree. Much as I hate to come across as any type of O2 fan boy (and I've never heard one) I guess sometimes we just have to remember that the O2 was really just designed to be a low cost headphone amp using very non-exotic, very basic parts.


----------



## shipsupt

miceblue said:


> Regardless of the design, the O2 was tested and sounds transparent to the highly acclaimed DAC1 PRE, which was nearly 9 times the price at the time. If it sounds transparent next to that thing and you guys say the design is schiit, and blah blah blah is superior, then I'd like to see someone here build an audibly superior amp for a similar price with test subjects too.




I'm sorry, you guys lost me. What does this have to do with STAX?


----------



## miceblue

^ It started with this comment, which I think is totally valid. How does one know what a reference amp is for an electrostat? Many people use the O2 as a reference amp for dynamic headphones.
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Never really understood electrostatic amplification either. All I know that the concept of "reference" amplification is much more nebulous and less well-understood than such amplification for dynamic drivers (e.g. Objective 2).


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> ^ It started with this comment, which I think is totally valid. How does one know what a reference amp is for an electrostat? Many people use the O2 as a reference amp for dynamic headphones.


 
  IMO... a reference is only useful if a significant number of people have tried it. That's only possible if the amp is fairly low-cost. So that's never going to be that possible for Stax. The amps aren't "cheap". If you must have one, the closest are probably the 252 or the 323s. It doesn't help that most people buy different bundles. Again, that's fairly meaningless since so many folks either:
   
  a) happy with their vintage stuff that they aren't "upgrading"
  b) go straight for the high-end stuff and skip everything in between
  c) start in the mid-range stuff of Stax and sufficiently happy
   
  TLDR: The large number of folks on Stax wouldn't have tried as many amps as on dynamic setups... so why chase something that isn't really that achievable? Again, from what I've observed... most people come to Stax after they have tried everything else and whatever Stax they are at, they've achieved what they've set out for. Most don't upgrade endlessly on Stax amps - just look through the whole thread and you won't find that many upgrading between Stax amps (BHSE aside).
   
  On the plus side, there aren't a crowd of amps for Stax and they are all fairly well differentiated so people don't run into issues with comparing amps like dynamic setups.


----------



## autoteleology

> I'm sorry, you guys lost me. What does this have to do with STAX?


 
   
  The Stax thread is usually more off-topic than it is on-topic. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Also, spritzer, I might be interested in buying your jerry-rigged Egmont amp, but I'd like to know more about it before I decide since it's such an oddity. Since you own both, how does it compare to the SRD-X?


----------



## miceblue

What happens if you use an energiser with a STAX setup? Will it retain the same sound signature of the power amp?


----------



## autoteleology

> What happens if you use an energiser with a STAX setup? Will it retain the same sound signature of the power amp?


 
   
  Yeah, pretty much, in my experience at least. My SRD-X is pretty much colorless in any way as far as I can tell, though it's kinda limited in power.


----------



## DefQon

Some prick snagged a a broken Sigma deal from under my nose. I'm coming for you...


----------



## davidsh

Try go read up on how to win an auction on ebay if you aren't an experienced bidder, then things like that most likely won't happen.


----------



## DefQon

This is not through eBay.


----------



## cjfrbw

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What happens if you use an energiser with a STAX setup? Will it retain the same sound signature of the power amp?


 
  You won't necessarily be able to tell, since your amp/energizer/headphones/speakers etc. all act in conjunction with one another.
   
  Power amps do make the headphones sound quite different.  My current favorite setup is a 50 watt SET Wavac MD 572 with a Stax SRD 7 upgraded with Dyna Z565 trannies through a Stax 3n that has had its drivers replaced with 5n drivers, normal bias.
   
  The older Stax 3n/5n have the reputation for being very monitor like in terms of extreme detail, but with low, dry, well defined bass.
   
  With the bigger amp, there is absolutely no bass deficit, the bass is still fast but has real clout and impact competitive with my Ultrasone Ed8 dynamic headphones.  It's the best headphone set up I have ever heard.


----------



## DefQon

I think my SR-5 scales better with more prominent lows through my SRD-7sb mk2 hooked up to a 85watt x 2 hybrid class a tube integrated amp.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> You make a good point. Why even have a DAC at all??? It's 2013. All computer sound cards can do a simple conversion of digital to analog using just a tiny fraction of the CPUs power. All properly designed DACs and amps sound the same. If you think I'm wrong please do a thorough scientific study doing ABX blind testing with alteast 10,000 subjects and make sure you get it published in a peer-reviewed journal for electrical engineers. Otherwise I'm right and people are just foolin themselves. (BTW I won't be paying for these tests. You need to do them out of your own pocket for my own pleasure.)


 

 Your words in God's ear 
   
  The critical stage is the line stage of the DAC. Class-A silicon or good NOS tubes will do the job nicely. Fuggedabout the rest ...


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Your words in God's ear


 
  Yes, almost everything I write on Head-Fi is only worthy of God's ear. It's too brilliant for stupid mortal men.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Actually, the 202s don't improve all that much with better amps (I went from the 252 to the KGSSHV). There's a bit more control, but I can't say it's a lot better. All that said, the 202 is one of my favorites and I go back to it often even with my 007 for a different flavour (headstage is smaller but that intimacy sometimes work with certain music).
> 
> What don't you like about it, though? Also, what's your source? That probably is a big variable.


 
  I came back to the headphone world after playing around with IEMs. So I'm not too clear with other dynamic phones. I only vaguely remember the HD800/LCD2 from memory. It's not that I don't like the 202s. But after receiving my system, I had to ask a: "Is that it?" I don't feel the Stax magic. Maybe I'm being a little too picky for something that is only a basic Stax.
   
  Right now I'm feeding the 252 from a Cirrus Logic Flagship DAC chip. 
  Quote: 





chris j said:


> Interesting. Personally I prefer my SRS-2170 system over my AKG Q701 & Beyer DT880/600 Ohm, etc and various associated headphone amps. I find the SRS-2170 system to be very engaging, detailed, very nautural sounding and non-fatiguing. Let's just say all my dynamic 'phones are currently gathering dust....!


 
  Engaging...sort of
  Detailed-> I find IEMs easier to concnetrate on the details
  Non fatiguing-> I felt fatigued after 1 hour somehow... violins, cymbals, high pitched vocals become more shrill like than musical. 
   
  I find all this strange. That I would feel that this relatively neutral headphone would sound bright to me when the KAEDE I use (which is apparently treble knives) sounds fine.


----------



## DefQon

Sounds like plainly the stat sound isn't for you, guess you're more used to the coloured sound of your IEM's. That said, I absolutely hated my 202's when I got them, unengaging, lifeless piece of crap that I wanted to throw at the walls. Eventually I was going to sell it off for $100 (not typo), but I figured lets try some more amp's, sources and throw various music at them and see what they excel at. Fast forward almost a year now that I have owned them and my opinions/impressions are completely opposite as the sound has grown on me. 
   
  Anyway back to troubleshooting this piece of crap SRM-1 amp, got the crap DVM replaced and measured various points this time. 
   
  Here's a final picture.
   

  
  It's weird how the first transistors of both TO-5 and TO-66 types measure half the voltage of the last 2 transistors. I honestly can't figure out from my limited experience what the heck is wrong with this amp, unless the pairs of transistors are all suppose to emit the same output voltage?
   
  Then there's bias measurement from the jack of 38vdc....??


----------



## SBranson

Hi.  Just got in my SR-507s to replace my SR-404LEs.  Not as big a difference as I thought and there is something that I like about the 404le but I would still concede that the 507s are "better".
   
  But,,, I think I want to replace my amp.  I have the SRM-006t.  I have been trying to negotiate buying a SRM-007ii but that may fall through due to my being in Canada.
  Anyone have a suggestion whether this is the amp to go for or should I try the 727 or 717?  They're all close to the same price in used and that's about my budget.
   
  Thanks.


----------



## nemomec

My signature problem goes on 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I have yesterday had the issue for more than a half hour then i plug off the headphone and was very unlucky. Today testet again and it worked fine after only a few seconds. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The problem is the left channel have not enough basslevel but that comes back after a minute or not at all. I doesn´t think the membrane is defect, i have no distortion or others in sound.
   
  What is the problem? Is it the cable or a static issue in the driver?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## DefQon

The advice given to me when my 404's had imbalance is:
   
  Let it play music for 2 weeks to let it fix itself as there could be parasitic left over charge on the membrane. What's really funny, is every single time channel imbalance occur with these headphones, it's always the damn left channel. WHY????????????


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Actually, the 202s don't improve all that much with better amps (I went from the 252 to the KGSSHV). There's a bit more control, but I can't say it's a lot better. All that said, the 202 is one of my favorites and I go back to it often even with my 007 for a different flavour (headstage is smaller but that intimacy sometimes work with certain music).
> 
> What don't you like about it, though? Also, what's your source? That probably is a big variable.


 
   
  I think the 202s improve a fair bit with a better amp but I suppose it's subjective.
   
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> I am inclined to believe the same. I have heard the sound signature of the HE60 to be compared to the SR-Omega at least once, but the problem is (1) picking up a pair at a decent price that (2) works and doesn't have O2 drivers and (3) acquiring amplification that would do them justice.
> 
> Justifying the incremental expense has already become an issue as my T1/HE60 combo is already far too revealing of my recordings (I listen mostly to nu-jazz and instrumental hip-hop tracks). Pretty sure the SR-Omega or 009 would butcher them and I can't justify the outlay when I don't listen to well-recorded jazz or classical on the regular. Even some of the best-sounding electronic albums I have (e.g. Old Raves End) pale in comparison to Jazz at the Pawnshop as far as sound is concerned, but I don't listen to stuff like the latter at all.
> 
> I anticipate my next and final step being something like an eXStatA hybrid or KGSSHV, then no more.


 
   
  The HE60s are awesome. A pair sold on ebay a few days ago $12xx but it wasnt in the best condition.


----------



## n3rdling

Wow somebody got an amazing deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sennheiser-HE60-HEV70-Electrostatic-Baby-Orpheus-/200931951781?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2ec87a44a5&nma=true&si=nWQRkyK1Rq74arITzrDoR5kKpB0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


----------



## jjinh

Yep, that was a good deal. Looks like it was a _Buy It Now _sale.
   
  EDIT: just noticed the seller was headroom. So it was a demo headphone?


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I came back to the headphone world after playing around with IEMs. So I'm not too clear with other dynamic phones. I only vaguely remember the HD800/LCD2 from memory. It's not that I don't like the 202s. But after receiving my system, I had to ask a: "Is that it?" I don't feel the Stax magic. Maybe I'm being a little too picky for something that is only a basic Stax.
> 
> Right now I'm feeding the 252 from a Cirrus Logic Flagship DAC chip.
> Engaging...sort of
> ...


 

 Just try the Stax SR507 with 006TS in a shop. It's nothing you describe and would really convert you!


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> Just try the Stax SR507 with 006TS in a shop. It's nothing you describe and would really convert you!


 
  Anyone know where I could try Staxes out in the US? 
   
  Besides the usual meets.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Wow somebody got an amazing deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sennheiser-HE60-HEV70-Electrostatic-Baby-Orpheus-/200931951781?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2ec87a44a5&nma=true&si=nWQRkyK1Rq74arITzrDoR5kKpB0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


 
  That's a sick deal. What the...


----------



## DefQon

A great deal there.


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I think the 202s improve a fair bit with a better amp but I suppose it's subjective.


 
   
  I really was expecting it too, as well. But after finishing with the KGSSHV (hours of work and all!) I was expecting a big jump as well, but I wasn't getting it. I did get much better bass (tight), but that's about it. All said, I still really like the 202s... "intimate" is the best term I can use to describe it and I actually think it's slightly better than my 007 on the realiser (I haven't got the microphones to do the HPEQs yet, though, so this may change)
   


telecaster said:


> Just try the Stax SR507 with 006TS in a shop. It's nothing you describe and would really convert you!


 
   
  This is just me... but when I tried the SR507 (albeit on a 323 I think?) it was definitely brighter than the 202. If the 202s caused him to feel fatigued... I'd think the 507s would probably "slaughter" him  If it's not the source, I'm inclined to agree with Defcon and think the Stax sound signature may not be what he likes.


----------



## 3X0

The Headroom unit is mine. According to Mike O from Headroom they were sitting unused for about a decade. 

I just had to replace the pleather bits, get them Stax-terminated and now the main issue outstanding with the headphones is that the right driver is about half (!) as loud as the left.

I read some pretty scary stuff about how if an imbalance is permanent (played them about three hours per day for a week without the right channel showing improvement), it might indicate that the driver is on its way out. I know I observed some buzzing in the right channel earlier so I don't doubt that it arced at some point in its life. It sounds fine when I compensate with balance controls but the thought of the driver going kaput makes me uneasy.

Is channel imbalance always a one-way ticket to driver death? I haven't really read any anecdotes about an electrostatic driver dying in such a fashion.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Being mortal makes us less worthy in any way? How discriminating, almost racism!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> The Headroom unit is mine. According to Mike O from Headroom they were sitting unused for about a decade.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Nice, at least you have a spare HE60 since your current one is sort of borked with imbalance.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Nice, at least you have a spare HE60 since your current one is sort of borked with imbalance.


 
  Oh, this HE60 is my only one. At least I have the HEV70 so Sennheiser can service it for me.
   
  Imbalance is in the order of ~8dB quieter on the right channel. I suppose I'll take a wait-and-see approach with what happens -- I'll be opening the right earcup soon enough to replace a torn rubber band anyway.


----------



## reiserFS

Can someone comment on the SR-303 set?


----------



## autoteleology

> Can someone comment on the SR-303 set?


 
   
  Not sure what you mean. I have an SR-303 and have read a lot about them so I can give you information on them, if you want.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Oh, this HE60 is my only one. At least I have the HEV70 so Sennheiser can service it for me.
> 
> Imbalance is in the order of ~8dB quieter on the right channel. I suppose I'll take a wait-and-see approach with what happens -- I'll be opening the right earcup soon enough to replace a torn rubber band anyway.


 
  Thought you're the one that just purchased the Headroom set on ebay?
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Can someone comment on the SR-303 set?


 
  Great and fun sounding, what else do you want to know?


----------



## 3X0

defqon said:


> Thought you're the one that just purchased the Headroom set on ebay?



Yeah, I bought that one a little over a month ago.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Wow somebody got an amazing deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sennheiser-HE60-HEV70-Electrostatic-Baby-Orpheus-/200931951781?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2ec87a44a5&nma=true&si=nWQRkyK1Rq74arITzrDoR5kKpB0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


 
   
  Oh so you didn't buy this one? I had the impression that you purchased this one (also sold by looks of Headroom also).


----------



## 3X0

defqon said:


> Oh so you didn't buy this one? I had the impression that you purchased this one (also sold by looks of Headroom also).



That's the listing I bought (listing ended in early June). They only had one pair.

Even with the heavy imbalance I think I lucked out (the other listing that went for $1200 recently was without the HEV70 and untested).

Since I got a good deal I was planning on replacing the drivers anyway but I need to sell my source and subwoofer first in order to make it a financially responsible decision.


----------



## Chris J

evetan said:


> I came back to the headphone world after playing around with IEMs. So I'm not too clear with other dynamic phones. I only vaguely remember the HD800/LCD2 from memory. It's not that I don't like the 202s. But after receiving my system, I had to ask a: "Is that it?" I don't feel the Stax magic. Maybe I'm being a little too picky for something that is only a basic Stax.
> 
> Right now I'm feeding the 252 from a Cirrus Logic Flagship DAC chip.
> Engaging...sort of
> ...



 
 As far as I'm concerned, the "basic Stax" system sounds outstanding and is easily worth the $750 I paid for it. Not too sure what a Cirrus Logic Flagship DAC chip is..............I'm not a DSP guy....................just wondering: if you were to drive the SRS-2170 directly from a (for example) iPod Touch I think what you would hear is just how bad an iPod headphone jack sounds.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> There is a lot more to amp design than low THD.  All in all THD is a useless benchmark except to weed out the really disastrous circuits.  One springs to mind which Kevin sent my way.  Some guy had sent it to him to comment on and when run in simulation is has a THD of 200%... that's not a typo.
> 
> The normal ways to keep THD low have rather severe side effects and the "designer" didn't take any of the less used paths which do work better.  It's just a shoddy design with a lot of shortcuts and some aspects deemed not important when they clearly are.  All in all it's crap and you can do so much better for a low price.  Take the new Squarewave Kevin did from the old Single Power amps.  More power than the POS Liquid Gold, dirt cheap to build and a THD of 0.01%.  Fully discrete too so no opamps with all their issues.


 
  Yep, I think the idea that an amp's THD was the only measurement you'd ever need dates back to Julian Hirsch and Stereo Review and Consumer reports all from about 45 years ago.


----------



## reiserFS

Sorry, forgot to mention that how they compare to the Lambda / SRM-1/MK2 combo as there's one going for 550€. The SR-303/SRM-313 set is going for 650€. I will be driving them from my KGSS, but mainly looking at the Stax amps for bedside use.
   
  What would you say is the better value out of the two sets?
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Great and fun sounding, what else do you want to know?


----------



## astrostar59

Quote: 





> But,,, I think I want to replace my amp.  I have the SRM-006t.  I have been trying to negotiate buying a SRM-007ii but that may fall through due to my being in Canada.
> Anyone have a suggestion whether this is the amp to go for or should I try the 727 or 717?  They're all close to the same price in used and that's about my budget.


 
  I would go for the 717 if you can find a good example. I love mine, fast, good bass and none fatigiing. To me the Stax tubed amps sound a bit slow and flatter.
  I
   use an Audio Note tubed NOS DAC and a tubed Audio Note pre amp before the Stax 717. It really give the Stax amp the ddrive and bass I crave (I use SR-007s 2.5s).
   
  BTW the SRM-717 is a no feedback design, unlike the later 717 which helps in the clean sound. The later 727 is part negative feedback, which according to Sprizerha
  d to happen due to design copyright, not for sonic reasons....


----------



## mudihan

Does anyone has the schematic for SRD-7SB?


----------



## gilency

I only have the Pro and MkII.
  Will post them anyway.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





chris j said:


> As far as I'm concerned, the "basic Stax" system sounds outstanding and is easily worth the $750 I paid for it. Not too sure what a Cirrus Logic Flagship DAC chip is..............I'm not a DSP guy....................just wondering: if you were to drive the SRS-2170 directly from a (for example) iPod Touch I think what you would hear is just how bad an iPod headphone jack sounds.


 
  I don't think that the 20XX series is bad. Just nothing special. That's all. It doesn't outperform or lose to anything else I've heard so far.
   
  I hope my view changes when I get to demo a 007 or 009. I'll prob skip all the other Lambda models and go straight with the 007 someday in the future.


----------



## mudihan

Quote: 





gilency said:


> I only have the Pro and MkII.
> Will post them anyway.


 
   
  Thanks. I have compared these against the circuit board of my SRD-7SB and the SB seems quite dissimilar. 
   
  I googled everywhere, and nobody seems to have posted a schematic for the SB.


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I don't think that the 20XX series is bad. Just nothing special. That's all. It doesn't outperform or lose to anything else I've heard so far.
> 
> I hope my view changes when I get to demo a 007 or 009. I'll prob skip all the other Lambda models and go straight with the 007 someday in the future.


 
   
  It's a good choice 
   
  On a good amp, the 007 is great and is a lot darker (music seems to come out of "nowhere"). So if you find the 202s bright, the 007s should fit you well. That all said, you may get used to the 202s after some time? 
   
  Personally, I do one of the best value "upgrades" to go along with the 202s is a set of tactile transducers put into your chair. They aren't expensive and they really elevate the listening experience. You get detail and chest-pounding bass at the same time


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I don't think that the 20XX series is bad. Just nothing special. That's all. It doesn't outperform or lose to anything else I've heard so far.
> 
> I hope my view changes when I get to demo a 007 or 009. I'll prob skip all the other Lambda models and go straight with the 007 someday in the future.


 
   
  Quote: 





ristar said:


> It's a good choice
> 
> On a good amp, the 007 is great and is a lot darker (music seems to come out of "nowhere"). So if you find the 202s bright, the 007s should fit you well. That all said, you may get used to the 202s after some time?
> 
> Personally, I do one of the best value "upgrades" to go along with the 202s is a set of tactile transducers put into your chair. They aren't expensive and they really elevate the listening experience. You get detail and chest-pounding bass at the same time


 
   
  Put it this way, if he likes the LCD2's dark/laid back sound signature than he will like the 007's. If he doesn't like the Lambda 202's sound (which is sort of distinctly different to the rest of the other Lambda's), then he will not like the 009 or O1's.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





mudihan said:


> Does anyone has the schematic for SRD-7SB?


 
  Try this one from the other Stax thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/189204/the-stax-thread/660  scroll down to post #666 by tyre


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> I would go for the 717 if you can find a good example. I love mine, fast, good bass and none fatigiing. To me the Stax tubed amps sound a bit slow and flatter.
> I
> use an Audio Note tubed NOS DAC and a tubed Audio Note pre amp before the Stax 717. It really give the Stax amp the ddrive and bass I crave (I use SR-007s 2.5s).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks!...  Would that advice apply if I upgrade to the 007 mk1 as well?  How is the 007t with the 007 mk.1?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I thought the SR-007 MKI was pretty neutral overall. Laid back and soothing/relaxing was what I thought of it on the Liquid Lightning.
   
  Comparing it to the LCD-2/3's darkness? Eh...I disagree with that. The 007 MKI sounded much more lively than those.
   
  How is the SR-202, or SR-207, different from the other Lambdas?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





ristar said:


> It's a good choice
> 
> On a good amp, the 007 is great and is a lot darker (music seems to come out of "nowhere"). So if you find the 202s bright, the 007s should fit you well. That all said, you may get used to the 202s after some time?
> 
> Personally, I do one of the best value "upgrades" to go along with the 202s is a set of tactile transducers put into your chair. They aren't expensive and they really elevate the listening experience. You get detail and chest-pounding bass at the same time


 
  Haha, I got to used to the 202's "brightness." So now it's more comfortable to listen to now. But another problem has arisen... Channel imbalance. Is that a common thing? For the imbalances to come and go? I swear it wasn't there last night.
   
  Oh, I'll be heading to uni by then, so installing tactile transducers would be a waste, but that's an interesting idea! sounds like a fun experience.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Put it this way, if he likes the LCD2's dark/laid back sound signature than he will like the 007's. If he doesn't like the Lambda 202's sound (which is sort of distinctly different to the rest of the other Lambda's), then he will not like the 009 or O1's.


 
  I actually hated the LCD2's darkness. 
  I do believe that the 007 will prob sound nice though. I'll prob leave full sizes behind soon. 
  It's just so inconvenient to use . I guess I'll wait until after uni to decide on that stuff. 009 is  still impossible though.
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I thought the SR-007 MKI was pretty neutral overall. Laid back and soothing/relaxing was what I thought of it on the Liquid Lightning.
> 
> Comparing it to the LCD-2/3's darkness? Eh...I disagree with that. The 007 MKI sounded much more lively than those.
> 
> How is the SR-202, or SR-207, different from the other Lambdas?


 
  Although I know someone who sold his 007 for the LCD2 slam. But of course, the reason for the switch  was because he got a 009 setup .


----------



## dukeskd

Just an indicator for you: I hated the LCD-2s but absolutely love the 007mkIs.


----------



## Argybargy

sbranson said:


> Thanks!...  Would that advice apply if I upgrade to the 007 mk1 as well?  How is the 007t with the 007 mk.1?




007mk1 sounds great with the 007t . This setup blows away the lcd2.2, he500, hd650. If you only drive it with the 007t you'll be very happy. But after giving the 007 more juice wth the 717, I heard slightly better controlled bass, better treble extension, bigger soundstage (but not as deep). 007t slightly emphasized the mids and had a bit of euphonic coloration, 717 was more neutral.

Check out the old sterophile review of the 007mk1; the reviewer liked it with the 007t.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I thought the SR-007 MKI was pretty neutral overall. Laid back and soothing/relaxing was what I thought of it on the Liquid Lightning.
> 
> Comparing it to the LCD-2/3's darkness? Eh...I disagree with that. The 007 MKI sounded much more lively than those.
> 
> How is the SR-202, or SR-207, different from the other Lambdas?


 
  The Mk1 is very neutral. It is dark sounding compared to the rest of the stat's from the Stax family, not exactly LCD2/3 darkness but you should get the idea of where I'm coming since Eventan found the 202's a bit too bright.
   
  The rest of Lambda's are quite different to the 202/207, the LNS is probably the most neutral and impressive sounding out of the lot, the LP is the most dynamic and bass easily comparable to some good dynamic can's, Sigma Pro's have an ethereal soundstage and incredibly amazing position and imaging with binaural or classical recordings but require the power to sound great, The 507 has razor bright highs or treble (from vague memory) but kind of slow and bassy sounding compared to the LNS and such. Some people hate the 404 Sig and think it is either inferior or a side-step to the LNS, but the pair I currently have powered by the 323S, out of everything I've owned and tried within the price category I spent, for electronic music, esp trance nothing sounds better, the mid bass is glorifying fun to listen to, it's like Gareth Emery and Cosmic Gate is right in front of me. The 407 are not bad as well but I found them to have that harsh highs or treble extension the 507 has but not as bad.
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> Haha, I got to used to the 202's "brightness." So now it's more comfortable to listen to now. But another problem has arisen... Channel imbalance. Is that a common thing? For the imbalances to come and go? I swear it wasn't there last night.
> 
> Oh, I'll be heading to uni by then, so installing tactile transducers would be a waste, but that's an interesting idea! sounds like a fun experience.
> I actually hated the LCD2's darkness.
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Just an indicator for you: I hated the LCD-2s but absolutely love the 007mkIs.


 
  I liked both, after I modded the crap out of my rev.1's. I never quite understood why the LCD2's was marketed at $995, they should be at $450-550 at most.


----------



## Argybargy

defqon said:


> The Mk1 is very neutral. It is dark sounding compared to the rest of the stat's from the Stax family, not exactly LCD2/3 darkness but you should get the idea of where I'm coming since Eventan found the 202's a bit too bright.
> 
> 
> I liked both, after I modded the crap out of my rev.1's. I never quite understood why the LCD2's was marketed at $995, they should be at $450-550 at most.




Real!(!) Wood Premium = $500


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> Real!(!) Wood Premium = $500


 
  A bit of Rosewood (supposedly not even real rosewood according to some head-fiers) cost $500?


----------



## Argybargy

defqon said:


> A bit of Rosewood (supposedly not even real rosewood according to some head-fiers) cost $500?




No, the sense of luxury panache that it imparts costs $500.

The rosewood on my latest version LCD 2 cracked in 3 places in less than 12 months. Sold them after warranty work.


----------



## AnakChan

defqon said:


> The Mk1 is very neutral. It is dark sounding compared to the rest of the stat's from the Stax family, not exactly LCD2/3 darkness but you should get the idea of where I'm coming since Eventan found the 202's a bit too bright.
> 
> The rest of Lambda's are quite different to the 202/207, the LNS is probably the most neutral and impressive sounding out of the lot, the LP is the most dynamic and bass easily comparable to some good dynamic can's, Sigma Pro's have an ethereal soundstage and incredibly amazing position and imaging with binaural or classical recordings but require the power to sound great, The 507 has razor bright highs or treble (from vague memory) but kind of slow and bassy sounding compared to the LNS and such. Some people hate the 404 Sig and think it is either inferior or a side-step to the LNS, but the pair I currently have powered by the 323S, out of everything I've owned and tried within the price category I spent, for electronic music, esp trance nothing sounds better, the mid bass is glorifying fun to listen to, it's like Gareth Emery and Cosmic Gate is right in front of me. The 407 are not bad as well but I found them to have that harsh highs or treble extension the 507 has but not as bad.



 

 I'm curious, you consider the mk1 to be neutral? Ok admittedly I have both the 007Mk1 & 009, and you did say dark sounding coming from the rest of the Stax family.

 However by comparison to say something like the Mad Dogs or Paradox, to me those are more neutral-ish than the Mk1 which to me still leans more towards the warm side. I am driving my Staxes from the 727A though, so I don't know if that has a part to play in the Mk1's warmish signature.


----------



## DefQon

A lot MK1 owners would consider the mk1 the most neutral out of the family (those that have owned both the 009 and 007). I found it neutral with a hint of laid back darkness that is similar to my modded rev.1, but this so called neutral tonality could attribute to this. Except a few Lambda's, the rest of the Stax family is bright compared to the mk1.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> I'm curious, you consider the mk1 to be neutral? Ok admittedly I have both the 007Mk1 & 009, and you did say dark sounding coming from the rest of the Stax family.
> 
> However by comparison to say something like the Mad Dogs or Paradox, to me those are more neutral-ish than the Mk1 which to me still leans more towards the warm side. I am driving my Staxes from the 727A though, so I don't know if that has a part to play in the Mk1's warmish signature.


 
  Compared to the Lambdas, 009, SR-5, etc, 007mkI has a very different approach to sound where it isn't bright sounding but at the same time the detail retrieval is excellent. To me that is sort of a paradox since with logic, you would assume an elevated treble equals a lot of sprouting detail. But that is not the case with 007mkI. I have absolutely zero listening fatigue with them.
  In contrast, the HD800 would irritate me after a few hours and most of the dynamics I've owned + a few of the Lambdas.
   
  Many people like to assume that the 009 is king of neutrality, but that is not true. The lower amount of bass (especially when you go 100 Hz and lower) is definitely not neutral and the bright sound signature can be quite a distraction. IMO, no headphone is neutral.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> I never quite understood why the LCD2's was marketed at $995, they should be at $450-550 at most.


 
  I've been saying that for a long, long time. I usually get criticized heavily by Audeze fan boys but even the Stax SR-5 sounds better to me than the LCD-2s.


----------



## EveTan

Anyone know if channel imbalance is a normal part of Stax life? The right side is severely reduced in volume. I hear the only solution is to keep it playing for a while?
   
  Edit: Ok so it finally solved itself (kinda, not entirely but alot better than before) after playing constantly for like 6 hrs.


----------



## mechgamer123

Gosh I've been loving my SR-202s. Even though the FR graph is probably farther away from neutral than my Mad Dogs, they just sound _better_ and more neutral than the MDs, even though I payed more for the Dogs than my 2020 system.


----------



## gilency

Omega II was too dark for me, even with the KGSSHV. 
009 are more natural sounding to my ears.
But really, is like arguing why some people like vanilla ice dream more than chocolate.
You like what you like


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





gilency said:


> Omega II was too dark for me, even with the KGSSHV.
> 009 are more natural sounding to my ears.
> But really, is like arguing why some people like vanilla ice dream more than chocolate.
> You like what you like


 
  The weird thing is that usually I'm a basshead, or "chocolate" in your analogy. Yet for some reason I still just love my 202s. 
  Except for the fact the earpads are terrible. They need to be about twice as thick so they don't put pressure on my ears...


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Because the LCD-2 measures so well with ultra-low blah blah blah. You either love the LCD-2 or you love coloured. 
   
  I never understood the appeal for the LCD-2. Sure you get the planar magnetic bass texture, but the soundstage is like listening to a concert in a bathroom stall (i.e. no soundstage and instrument clarity).


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Anyone know if channel imbalance is a normal part of Stax life? The right side is severely reduced in volume. I hear the only solution is to keep it playing for a while?
> 
> Edit: Ok so it finally solved itself (kinda, not entirely but alot better than before) after playing constantly for like 6 hrs.


 
 
   
  Is it the left channel?
   
  Cure time = 2 weeks non stop playing.
  Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Compared to the Lambdas, 009, SR-5, etc, 007mkI has a very different approach to sound where it isn't bright sounding but at the same time the detail retrieval is excellent. To me that is sort of a paradox since with logic, you would assume an elevated treble equals a lot of sprouting detail.
> I've been saying that for a long, long time. I usually get criticized heavily by Audeze fan boys but even the Stax SR-5 sounds better to me than the LCD-2s.


 
  Ditto to this, I would actually go as saying that the mk1 is a refined and flaws fixed approach of the LCD2/3.
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> Gosh I've been loving my SR-202s. Even though the FR graph is probably farther away from neutral than my Mad Dogs, they just sound _better_ and more neutral than the MDs, even though I payed more for the Dogs than my 2020 system.


 
  Glad you're liking them.
   
  Quote: 





mechgamer123 said:


> The weird thing is that usually I'm a basshead, or "chocolate" in your analogy. Yet for some reason I still just love my 202s.
> Except for the fact the earpads are terrible. They need to be about twice as thick so they don't put pressure on my ears...


 
  No you're not chocolate, I'm chocolate and vanila since I like both sides of the flavour of enriching dark sounding orthos and the brightness of the HD800's and stats. I think you're more of a peanut butter flavour, since you're a basshead, the peanuts represent v/u shaped sound sig's. But yeah you need to grab yourself some vintage pads or possibly go leather (507/404LE pads).
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Because the LCD-2 measures so well with ultra-low blah blah blah. You either love the LCD-2 or you love coloured.
> 
> I never understood the appeal for the LCD-2. Sure you get the planar magnetic bass texture, but the soundstage is like listening to a concert in a bathroom stall (i.e. no soundstage and instrument clarity).


 
  If you listen to metal, then you will love the LCD2's/3's. But yeah soundstage is not it's strongest points.


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yup, I've been enjoying the heck out of them.
  Eh, every V-shaped sig I've heard has had spikey treble that was painful and/or sibilant, so I wouldn't say I'm a V-person.
  Oh, and I have the 507 pads on mine right now. They're just as uncomfortable as before, but the real leather does look better than the pleather!


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





argybargy said:


> 007mk1 sounds great with the 007t . This setup blows away the lcd2.2, he500, hd650. If you only drive it with the 007t you'll be very happy. But after giving the 007 more juice wth the 717, I heard slightly better controlled bass, better treble extension, bigger soundstage (but not as deep). 007t slightly emphasized the mids and had a bit of euphonic coloration, 717 was more neutral.
> 
> Check out the old sterophile review of the 007mk1; the reviewer liked it with the 007t.


 
  Thanks!...  
   
  I think I will pursue the SRM-007Tii then as it will probably smooth out the top of the 507s.   But I'm on the hunt for a SR-007 Mk1 now.  Man this thread is like crack...  Now I feel like I need both amps... arrgh!


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Because the LCD-2 measures so well with ultra-low blah blah blah. You either love the LCD-2 or you love coloured.
> 
> I never understood the appeal for the LCD-2. Sure you get the planar magnetic bass texture, but the soundstage is like listening to a concert in a bathroom stall (i.e. no soundstage and instrument clarity).


 
   
  Ha...  That the best description I've read yet, now that you've said it, that's exactly how it sounded to me.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Anyone know if channel imbalance is a normal part of Stax life? The right side is severely reduced in volume. I hear the only solution is to keep it playing for a while?
> 
> Edit: Ok so it finally solved itself (kinda, not entirely but alot better than before) after playing constantly for like 6 hrs.


 
   
  I've never had a pair with channel imbalance. I dont think it's that common...


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Is it the left channel?


 

   
  Nope. Right channel. And it got better an hour ago. Now it's back to being unbalanced.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Nope. Right channel. And it got better an hour ago. Now it's back to being unbalanced.


 
  Hah! finally DefQon it's the right channel.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Nope. Right channel. And it got better an hour ago. Now it's back to being unbalanced.


 

   
  Let it cure itself is all I can say, as that is the advice given to me by upper Stax members.
   
  Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Hah! finally DefQon it's the right channel.


 

   
   
  I know! LOL...finally it's a right channel imbalance and I was thinking, man all these left channel imbalances must be a Stax conspiracy. haha.


----------



## M-13

Perfect reaction DefQon


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> I usually get criticized heavily by Audeze fan boys but even the Stax SR-5 sounds better to me than the LCD-2s.


 
   
  I sold my long time HeadAmp KGSS/O2 mk1 rig after having a Nugget B22/LCD-2 Rev1 for a while.  Found them to be very similar with trade offs here and there but overall for the genres in my profile... LCD.  To be fair, I returned my first pair of LCD-2 back to Audeze because they were a dark muddy mess.  Main difference between the two... O2 had more grain, LCD-2 had a blacked background.
   
  I'd love to get an 009 someday but the rise to 1KHz scares me.  Looks on paper to be fairly forward and top tilted.  And like the O2, not sure it would fit.  With the O2 my head rested on the metal band with the elastic pulling down.  Made the LCD a comfortable alternative /facepalm


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





solude said:


> I sold my long time HeadAmp KGSS/O2 mk1 rig after having a Nugget B22/LCD-2 Rev1 for a while.  Found them to be very similar with trade offs here and there but overall for the genres in my profile... LCD.  To be fair, I returned my first pair of LCD-2 back to Audeze because they were a dark muddy mess.  Main difference between the two... O2 had more grain, LCD-2 had a blacked background.


 
  Electrostats grainy!? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Is it the left channel?
> 
> Cure time = 2 weeks non stop playing.


 
  Do you know if there's a recommended volume level? I notice my own HE60's right channel "pops" back to life in terms of balance (pretty much doubling in volume instantly) when I raise the volume level past my own comfortable threshold. I've read that electrostats have an easier time playing louder than dynamics and don't distort when doing so, but I'm still not sure if it's safe. I might just try playing the right channel only really loud if it's not dangerous.


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Electrostats grainy!?


 
   
  To be fair, I had a Stello DA220 mk2 at the time, so it could well have just been 'truth'.  That said, orthos to me so far have all been consistently liquid regardless of source.


----------



## Chris J

mechgamer123 said:


> Gosh I've been loving my SR-202s. Even though the FR graph is probably farther away from neutral than my Mad Dogs, they just sound _better_ and more neutral than the MDs, even though I payed more for the Dogs than my 2020 system.




I am loving my SRS-2170 too!
Frankly, I'm a bit relieved that I'm so satisfied with them. I don't feel the need to upgrade. Which is great, I really don't have the money for an upgrade for next several months, if ever.
But I'm cool with that, I enjoy my SR-202 far more than any other mid level 'phone that I have.


----------



## DefQon

They suck me thinks


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Haha, I got to used to the 202's "brightness." So now it's more comfortable to listen to now. But another problem has arisen... Channel imbalance. Is that a common thing? For the imbalances to come and go? I swear it wasn't there last night.
> 
> Oh, I'll be heading to uni by then, so installing tactile transducers would be a waste, but that's an interesting idea! sounds like a fun experience.
> I actually hated the LCD2's darkness.
> ...


 
   
  Good to hear! It'll probably grow more on you 
   
  I haven't had the problem with Channel imbalance, yet (knock on wood). I do believe it tends to be because of the diaphragm losing its conductiveness on one side. If it ever happened to me and rather badly, I'd take my drivers out and recoat it with a conductive solution. Chinsetta is probably the authority here and he recommends antistatic solution. But this is just me as I prefer to solve problems at the core.
   
  Just FYI, I think there's something from kickstarter that's sort of like tactile transducers, but portable: http://www.thesubpac.com/
   
  If I listed down value for performance upgrades I've experienced so far it'll go:

 Putting my own shunt attenuator (you can probably solder one yourself for less than 70USD if you're making a quad)
 Tactile transducers (cost 45USD from Amazon since I already had an old amp from my old Creative speakers)
 Realiser (expensive, yes, but it even makes my Creative Aurvana Live competitive!)


----------



## Chris J

"They suck me thinks"

Quoting Shakespeare?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Good to hear! It'll probably grow more on you
> 
> I haven't had the problem with Channel imbalance, yet (knock on wood). I do believe it tends to be because of the diaphragm losing its conductiveness on one side. If it ever happened to me and rather badly, I'd take my drivers out and recoat it with a conductive solution.


 
  You do realise once you open them up and recoat it, chances are you will not get it to sound the same as before. If you get channel imbalance on an old model, seek after replacements or sell it off is the two things I would do.


----------



## 3X0

Not a good idea to open up the drivers unless you're a professional, or so I've heard.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> The Stax thread is usually more off-topic than it is on-topic.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The SRD-X is a fine solution for 80's tech to make a portable amp but it's quite a ways from a proper one.  The Egmont may not be the most advanced amp there is but build it with care and it is quite good.  More power, more drive etc. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Some prick snagged a a broken Sigma deal from under my nose. I'm coming for you...


 
   
  Might have been me.... kinda think so...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Is channel imbalance always a one-way ticket to driver death? I haven't really read any anecdotes about an electrostatic driver dying in such a fashion.


 
   
  No but it can be a pretty clear indicator that something is very wrong. 
   
  Quote: 





mudihan said:


> Thanks. I have compared these against the circuit board of my SRD-7SB and the SB seems quite dissimilar.
> 
> I googled everywhere, and nobody seems to have posted a schematic for the SB.


 
   
  Most of these use the same setup as the wall powered variants but have a third transformer which steps up the outputs of the audio transformers again and are then fed into a 3 stage voltage multiplier. 
   
  Quote: 





solude said:


> To be fair, I had a Stello DA220 mk2 at the time, so it could well have just been 'truth'.  That said, orthos to me so far have all been consistently liquid regardless of source.


 
   
  Ding, ding... we have the culprit.  You are not the first one to blame the 007Mk1 for a source issue though.


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You do realise once you open them up and recoat it, chances are you will not get it to sound the same as before. If you get channel imbalance on an old model, seek after replacements or sell it off is the two things I would do.


 
   
  Different folks different strokes.
   
  1. Look for parts from an increasingly small supply - not my thing
  2. "Throw away" something that can be repurposed - not my thing
  3. Slight change to sound (just the conductivity of the diaphragm) - again that's what I would choose to do.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Personally, I do one of the best value "upgrades" to go along with the 202s is a set of tactile transducers put into your chair. They aren't expensive and they really elevate the listening experience. You get detail and chest-pounding bass at the same time


 
  Do you mean the "Buttkicker" sub?


----------



## M-13

So... guys I keep going back and forth between getting the Stax 2170 basic system through Price Japan and or picking up my 3rd LCD-2 R2. I find the LCD-2 to be heavily colored and yes the upper-mid suck out makes me feel like I'm listening to music in a closet. The bass while awesome sometimes, is just as often fatiguing for me. I much prefer the HE-500's presentation and thus I've built my current rig. So why return to the LCD-2 for the 3rd time? I miss those lush/juicy/sexy vocals. And there are time I enjoy that particular coloration. So I guess my question is can someone describe the vocal capabilities of the 2170? Is it distant? thin sounding? More transparent than the LCD-2 with faster transient speed? Anything would help if you have any experience with either the HE-500/LCD-2 and the 2170 system or equivalent.


----------



## autoteleology

> So... guys I keep going back and forth between getting the Stax 2170 basic system through Price Japan and or picking up my 3rd LCD-2


 
   
  The first thing you said about the LCD-2 was negative, so I'm guessing you'd probably be happier with something different.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If there was such a thing as a reference design then it would be the Dynahi.  It has even been cloned into one of the most popular opamps in current use...


 
   
  Sorry for the OT, but which OPAMP?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Might have been me.... kinda think so...


 
  If it's you then it's fine since you will doing it some good but it came up you've been outbid by another kuboten member so yeah.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> So... guys I keep going back and forth between getting the Stax 2170 basic system through Price Japan and or picking up my 3rd LCD-2 R2. I find the LCD-2 to be heavily colored and yes the upper-mid suck out makes me feel like I'm listening to music in a closet. The bass while awesome sometimes, is just as often fatiguing for me. I much prefer the HE-500's presentation and thus I've built my current rig. So why return to the LCD-2 for the 3rd time? I miss those lush/juicy/sexy vocals. And there are time I enjoy that particular coloration. So I guess my question is can someone describe the vocal capabilities of the 2170? Is it distant? thin sounding? More transparent than the LCD-2 with faster transient speed? Anything would help if you have any experience with either the HE-500/LCD-2 and the 2170 system or equivalent.


 
  Considering what you said, I guess the choice is pretty obvious. Go try something new, will be much more of an adventure than the lcd2. Owning some sort of 'stat rig at some time must be a criteria for the proper audiophile 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  In general vocals on the Stax' I have tried are quite the opposite of distant. Not that much weight to 'em with my Lambda Sig's, but they aren't tinny at all. They are what I'd call forward, but delicate with a bit of enhanced airyness. Very tactile indeed. But I haven't tried the 2170 system... Again I can tell you, that most stats excel in transparency (!) with great transients and a lot of clarity in general. Imaging is also outstanding with the Stax' I have tried.
   
  The weak point can be that the sound might be a little dry and a lack of body. Also, the sound stage size aren't necessarily as stellar as the imaging. All I have said are just generalizations, and there is always exceptions...
   
  If you want ultimate bang for your buck, you should consider going used/vintage.


----------



## DefQon

I'd say keep the LCD2 until you get the Stax stuff in. Since they are so opposite to each other in every way possible, I'd say they are good complementing headphones to keep if you listen to a wide variety of music. But for metal (Meshuggah, Periphery and all that djent, nu/black metal) stuff the LCD's (well powered) hands down sound awesome.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I'd say keep the LCD2 until you get the Stax stuff in. Since they are so opposite to each other in every way possible, I'd say they are good complementing headphones to keep if you listen to a wide variety of music. But for metal (Meshuggah, Periphery and all that djent, nu/black metal) stuff the LCD's (well powered) hands down sound awesome.


 
  Ohh, that is true. Stax and metal often doesn't synergize too well...


----------



## SoupRKnowva

davidsh said:


> Ohh, that is true. Stax and metal often doesn't synergize too well...



If you heard the 009s you wouldn't be saying that


----------



## DefQon

Indeed, although the mk1 that I heard when I joined here that got me into stats sounded pretty good with metal, but the it is indeed apocalyptically dark and hard hitting sounding with the LCD headphones. I usually crank mine up to 90db's powered from the HP out of my vintage Marantz PM-32 amp just to enjoy it even more.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Indeed, although the mk1 that I heard when I joined here that got me into stats sounded pretty good with metal, but the it is indeed apocalyptically dark and hard hitting sounding with the LCD headphones. I usually crank mine up to 90db's powered from the HP out of my vintage Marantz PM-32 amp just to enjoy it even more.


 
   
  One of the primary reasons I disliked the LCD-2s was the fact you needed to listen at really loud levels to enjoy anything.. and that is a precursor to tinnitus.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Same with the 500's. I am positive I usually listen anywhere around 80-85dB depending on mood with the 500's, because they sound too dull when not listening loud. I am also afraid my ears are starting to suffer a bit from it, but volume is a tricky thing when you haven't got an SPL meter.


----------



## DefQon

I'm still young so my ear's should be good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  But yeah it's the ortho'ish laid back lush sound that you need to bring up a notch or two on the volume to really start hearing proper sound compared to other music.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> One of the primary reasons I disliked the LCD-2s was the fact you needed to listen at really loud levels to enjoy anything.. and that is a precursor to tinnitus.


 
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Same with the 500's. I am positive I usually listen anywhere around 80-85dB depending on mood with the 500's, because they sound too dull when not listening loud. I am also afraid my ears are starting to suffer a bit from it, but volume is a tricky thing when you haven't got an SPL meter.


 
  I want to say you're underpowering them, but then I don't want to start another argument that results in me being banned from this thread. So yeah nevermind. Peace dudes. Live long and prosper.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> I want to say you're underpowering them, but then I don't want to start another argument that results in me being banned from this thread. So yeah nevermind. Peace dudes. Live long and prosper.


 
  Don't want you banned, but I'll still reply. You are partially right, but what you call underpowered can actually be enjoyable if not severely underpowered IME. I have tried them on a speaker amp, and I was acually slightly fatigued. I do have a bit more than 1 watt to do with after all.


----------



## dukeskd

In my case, you could consider they were overpowered in the setup I had the LCD-2s with. This is another reason why stats reign supreme, you can enjoy music at low volume levels.


----------



## DefQon

Somebody should really start making stat's in wood housings. I really really like wood (keep those dirty thoughts to yourself).


----------



## M-13

ok sorry. I apologize.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> One of the primary reasons I disliked the LCD-2s was the fact you needed to listen at really loud levels to enjoy anything.. and that is a precursor to tinnitus.


 
  Pretty much my experience with every ortho I've owned (HE-6, LCD-2, LCD-3). BUT, the levels I use NEVER exceed 85dB and they sound great between 75-85dB. Pretty safe region. But lower than 75dB they can sound pretty lifeless.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> In my case, you could consider they were overpowered in the setup I had the LCD-2s with. *This is another reason why stats reign supreme, you can enjoy music at low volume levels*.


 
  Totally agree with this.  The HD800 well amped is good at low volume, too.


----------



## miceblue

What the fak is "ham noise."

   

   
  That SR-207 is pretty dang sexy if I may say.
   
  These pleather pads aren't half bad actually. They're much more comfortable than I thought.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What the fak is "ham noise."
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Maybe supposed to be "Hum Noise".  From the description below talking about larger transformers nearby etc?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ah that's probably the case. The "a" key is pretty far away from the "u" key on a keyboard. XD
   
  And yay, I got my unboxing video taken right before the sun decided to disappear in my room.


----------



## telecaster

This thread show s many facets of the desire. Either you desire to charge your dusty lambda for three weeks because it's obviously better. Or you prefer the 207 lambda, sure is the best because it's the lesser. But of course the ultimate 5000$ desire is there so we can all be frustrated... either wanting or having it because of the desire of the promised amp... never ending cycle.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> This thread show s many facets of the desire. Either you desire to charge your dusty lambda for three weeks because it's obviously better. Or you prefer the 207 lambda, sure is the best because it's the lesser. But of course the ultimate 5000$ desire is there so we can all be frustrated... either wanting or having it because of the desire of the promised amp... never ending cycle.


 
  $5000? that's just the earspeakers...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 it's really $11000 or so, right?


----------



## autoteleology

I wonder what the O2 (either version) sounds like out of the SRM-Xh. Most likely inaudible because the amp is so limp and flaccid when it comes to power...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I wonder what the O2 (either version) sounds like out of the SRM-Xh. Most likely inaudible because the amp is so limp and flaccid when it comes to power...


 
  Actually not bad I have to say, bit rolled off treble, not much detail soundstage seems a bit collapsed, extension to all area's don't seem excelling and low-end is a droopy sounding rather than nice and plump and tight like a high school girls thighs. These are my findings with my recapped Xh and a pair of 007 mk1's. Borrowing my Omega's back on the Xh tames the brightness a tad bit but yeah, both Omega's need to have power. MOAR POWAH!


----------



## miceblue

I'm measuring stuff before I hook everything together.
   
  My vampire detecting "Kill a Watt" device says the wall voltage is ~126-134 V rounding up. Measuring the Japanese wall wart while directly connecting it to the wall, it has a voltage of 20.2 V.


----------



## telecaster

bearfnf said:


> $5000? that's just the earspeakers...
> 
> 
> 
> ...




its the nature of our education, like every little child's desire for this and that. the only progression of the desire's cycle is ultimately frustration. that sums up the whole audiophile/headfi quest.

your forgot the 10000€ dac plus 3000€ cables and the rest of course the source, the power supply, the status and the need of recognition in various circles like this club, you can try but never ever be satisfied.

How can a sane audio company not raises it flagships price continously when you take this into account. Not much room for an improvement in this business. ymmv


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Do you mean the "Buttkicker" sub?


 
  I just checked it out... that could work, but what I did was buy the Dayton audio pucks (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-TT25-16-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0073IXASQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374820421&sr=8-1&keywords=dayton+audio+puck) and put 2 of them under the seat and 2 behind the back rest (I use a car seat as my computing/gaming/listening chair so it can recline when I just want to listen to music).
   
  I don't know how strong the buttkicker would be but it looks easy to setup - being wireless and all. The subpac looks to be the most portable of all the solutions; and most expensive


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What the fak is "ham noise."
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Heh. You're maybe the first person I've seen to read the manual in such great detail. Props to you! I confess that I've not looked at any of the pieces of documentation that came with my Staxes.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> And yay, I got my unboxing video taken right before the sun decided to disappear in my room.


 
  Link?
   
  BTW the 207 DOES look sexy in your photo. Never really thought that about any lambda, hmm...


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That...took forever to process and upload to YouTube. >_<
   




   
  As a heads up, I like ASMR unboxing videos, so this video is rather slow and not to-the-point.


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> What the fak is "ham noise."
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Do you hear any "Oink, Oink" sounds?

BTW, my wife says I look like an idiot when I wear SR-207.:rolleyes:


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> I'm measuring stuff before I hook everything together.
> 
> My vampire detecting "Kill a Watt" device says the wall voltage is ~126-134 V rounding up. Measuring the Japanese wall wart while directly connecting it to the wall, it has a voltage of 20.2 V.




Don't use a 100 V wall wart in North America if you love your Stax energizer!


----------



## davidsh

What was the final price of that HE60/HEV70 setup?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Don't use a 100 V wall wart in North America if you love your Stax energizer!


 
   
  It seems that no one has a sure recommendation for a proper wallwart for these units...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Power pins have the polarity reversed or something like that for Japanese wallwarts..


----------



## duncan1

ChrisJ is right .  A Japanese wall wart MADE for the Japanese market is 100V/60HZ . Plugging that into a US socket  which has approx-120/130 V/60HZ will cause an increased output voltage above the standard output- UNLESS the said wall wart is SMPS  AND says --for UNIVERSAL use 100V---to 240V [UK] or 100V--to 125V [US] in THAT case it is "self adjusting" otherwise do not use it. Older wall warts had mains transformers in them[bulky] they certainly wont be suitable for " universal use" UNLESS there is voltage adjustments on  them.


----------



## autoteleology

Duncan, your posts are a bit hard to read sometimes because of the lack of formatting.

 That being said, what the heck is the Alpha Pro Excellent? Is this just a tweaked/rebranded Gamma?


----------



## EveTan

@DefQon
   
  So I guess the only thing I can do is wait? How long did it take your channel imbalance to fix itself?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Sorry for the OT, but which OPAMP?


 
   
  I can't say but it starts with LME...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  There is a reason why some of these chipamps are quite good indeed.  
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> If it's you then it's fine since you will doing it some good but it came up you've been outbid by another kuboten member so yeah.


 
   
  Didn't even want to win them given the repairs needed but I've adopted yet another broken Stax set. 
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> That being said, what the heck is the Alpha Pro Excellent? Is this just a tweaked/rebranded Gamma?


 
   
  Special Japan only version of the Gamma Pro with PC-OCC cable and  different earpads.  The pads were later used on all Gamma Pro's but not the cable.


----------



## 3X0

Quote:


davidsh said:


> What was the final price of that HE60/HEV70 setup?


 
  The one I bought from Headroom? $800.
   
   
  Main problem(s) being HEV70 is wonky (which is OK since I got a SRM-T1) and the right driver is super quiet.
   
   
  I've realized that the right driver's imbalance/volume fluctuates over time (it's occasionally quieter or louder) -- this leads me to believe it is a driver issue rather than an electrical/retermination issue.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> It seems that no one has a sure recommendation for a proper wallwart for these units...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Edit: Oooops, Duncan already answered this!
   
  It's pretty simple, for North American use, look for a Wall Wart that reads: 120 Vac Input, 12 Vdc Output, make sure it has the right output current rating (500 mA or more) and make sure the power pin has the right polarity WRT "+" and "-".
   
_It should be a linear power supply, but that information may be hard to come by._
   
  It should NOT read: Switchmode Power Supply, or Switching Power Supply, or Switcher Power Supply or SMPS.


----------



## rgs9200m

Quote: 





astrostar59 said:


> I would go for the 717 if you can find a good example. I love mine, fast, good bass and none fatigiing. *To me the Stax tubed amps sound a bit slow and flatter.*


 
  Maybe that's why the 007t/ii amp sounds very nice to me with my 009s. Just a thought. (The bass is especially good. Still have to watch out for brightness, but just occasionally, so still
  some room for improvement.)


----------



## Chris J

duncan1 said:


> ChrisJ is right .  A Japanese wall wart MADE for the Japanese market is 100V/60HZ . Plugging that into a US socket  which has approx-120/130 V/60HZ will cause an increased output voltage above the standard output- UNLESS the said wall wart is SMPS  AND says --for UNIVERSAL use 100V---to 240V [UK] or 100V--to 125V [US] in THAT case it is "self adjusting" otherwise do not use it. Older wall warts had mains transformers in them[bulky] they certainly wont be suitable for " universal use" UNLESS there is voltage adjustments on  them.



 
 Somewhere buried in this endless Head Fi thread either Kevin Gilmore or Spritzer or someone else??? advised us to NOT use a Switching Power Supply or Switch Mode Power Supply. Can anyone expand on this??


----------



## rgs9200m

HAM noise? I would think this refers to HAM Radio interference. (Amateur Radio).


----------



## miceblue

chris j said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > I'm measuring stuff before I hook everything together.
> ...




I don't have an energiser though?

So yesterday, er 0:15 today, I tried this:
Wall outlet -> surge protector -> Kill-a-Watt -> 100 V wall wart -> SRM-252S

MacBook Pro -> Monoprice USB -> ODAC -> 3.5 mm to RCA cable -> SRM-252S -> SR-207 -> my ears

1. Plug in ODAC to my computer
2. Plug in 3.5 mm to RCA cable into ODAC then SRM-252S
3. Plug in SR-207 into the SRM-252S in the proper orientation
4. Plug in 100 V wall wart
5. Plug in DC jack of wall wart into SRM-252S
6. Turn on SRM-252S by turning the potentiometer
7. Wait a few minutes and observe any weird sounds
8. Place ST-207 on head and observe any weird sounds
9. Play music on MacBook Pro at maximum digital volume
10. Observe any weird noises
11. Slowly adjust SRM-252S potentiometer until sufficient low-volume
12. Observe any weird noises

Kill-a-Watt readings were 24.7 V and 10,4 W.

I had a ~25 minute listen and these things sound surprisingly balanced to me. Very good bass extension, very revealing relative to the K 701 I have, smooth treble, natural-sounding 2D soundtage compared to the linear-sounding one on the K 701, and pretty warm.

I took the SR-207 on and off my head a few times without misic playing and I observed a slight crinkling sound in the left driver, which I'm assuming is the STAX fart.

After my listening session:
1. Turn off music
2. Turn off SRM-252S
3. Wait a few minutes
4. Unplug DC plug from SRM-252S
5. Unplug 100 V wall wart from Kill-a-Watt
6. Unplug SR-207 from SRM-252S
7. Unplug 3.5 mm to RCA cable from ODAC


So all in all, I observed nothing noticeably wrong during this test session apart from the Kill-a-Watt readings. . The 100V wall wart was warm, but it was nothing out of the ordinary in my experience; it got almost as warm as my MacBook Pro charger brick when I'm charging my MacBook Pro from, say 20% battery to 100%.


----------



## duncan1

CriJ-This intrigues me. In the past 5--10 years most if not all power supplies that pug into a wall  are switch mode. This is an industry benefit as it is a lot cheaper to buy SMPS parts in bulk than big transformers . It means to the customer that the PS is slim /lightweight and can easily output a lot of current. But if you mean "don't buy SMPS for Audio---I quite AGREE! Watch the film of 2 of them on a social network and the illegal copy can be heard with the ear and on a     AM radio.What I did not know was that you can still get wall warts with--MAINS transformers in them Is that the case in the US??? most have been changed in the UK to SMPS . If you need a current of several amps they have got to be big and heavy  small ones proved unreliable due to being enclosed in a plastic shell and blew their internal fuses[internal in the transformer windings]  .Hope you can "put me straight" on this? ---Just noticed Miceblues post and he says it works just fine ? so I take it it is a SMPS [universal] ???- transformer would blow or be way overvoltage   -maybe more info from Miceblue?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Edit: Oooops, Duncan already answered this!It's pretty simple, for North American use, look for a Wall Wart that reads: 120 Vac Input, 12 Vdc Output, make sure it has the right output current rating and *make sure the power pin has the right polarity WRT "+" and "-"*.It should NOT read: Switchmode Power Supply, or Switching Power Supply, or Switcher Power Supply.


 
   
  This is the problem... finding a wallwart with the VAC and VDC ratings is easy enough, but I cannot find one anywhere which has the polarity correct for this version (nearly everything with this rating has the center barrel positive instead of negative)... they are either incredibly rare or I'm clearly not looking hard enough...


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  So I ask for the third time now, will this work?
  http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
   
  120 V AC 60Hz primary voltage
  12 V DC output
  1.5 A
  18 W
  Center negative
  AC-DC unregulated linear
   
  I'm expecting an answer other than from DefQon since he already answered it.
   
   
  And also for the third time here, will this work?
  http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/product_info.php?category_id=10016468&products_id=10061420
   
   
  And I recently found this. Will this work?
  http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sacom/item/1372935/
   
   
  Again, y'all say don't use X, but then you don't give any recommendations otherwise. Y'all say don't use X, but you don't say why, nor what will happen. I just tried the 100 V thing and nothing noticeably bad happened. I contacted the person in Japan whom I bought the SRS-2170 from and I received the reply:
  Quote: 





> Me: [size=x-small][size=10pt]I do have a question though regarding the STAX unit. As you might already know, I live in the United States and the voltages here are 120 V instead of 100 V in Japan. Do you have a recommended AC to DC wall adaptor and/or transformer?[/size][/size]
> 
> [size=x-small][size=10pt]Person: I have heard that it will basically work, but I think it might be better and safer over the long term to use a voltage converter.[/size][/size]


----------



## shipsupt

Why are you making this so complicated?  Your questions have been answered over and over...  Why do you insist on using a PSU rated for 100V when you know you've got US voltages?
   
  Here... this will work fine, I've used it for a few years in the US.  
   
   
  Radio Shack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944 (You can probably find the same model on Amazon cheaper, 273-358.)
  And this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807940&locale=en_US (Make sure you plug the adapter in for the right polarity, it's marked on the amp)
   
  If you go to a retail store you might even find one that comes with a selection of tips.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> That...took forever to process and upload to YouTube. >_<


 
  Nice miceblue I enjoyed it. I skipped over some of the boring parts, but I like how thorough you were.
   
  Did you get yours through Price Japan? What was wait time after you paid? Did you go DHL or EMS shipping?


----------



## RiStaR

Quote:


miceblue said:


> So I ask for the third time now, will this work?
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
> 
> 12 V
> ...


 
   
  I'd say any of the transformers would work with the Jap DC power supply.
   
  With regard to getting better power to the SRM-252 directly, you need to match it to the specs of the amp. It says 12V/4Watts... i.e. current should be ~330mA. So look for a power adapter that fits those specs with the right size jack and polarity. Why limit yourself to a certain brand/model when those guidelines give you enough to pick from various models?
   
  The reason why folks are steering you to a regulated linear power supply is because it's just better quality (and it should be more expensive). The better the quality of the power supply the less the regulators in that tiny amp will need to work (so it'll last longer). By running more voltage into the 252 you're just shortening the life of the silicon in there. 
   
  No one is probably going to give you a model and brand because they can't stand by it and say it'll work unless they own one.


----------



## autoteleology

I use that exact same Rat Shack adapter! I would have recommended it but you pay a big price premium for something you don't really need IMO.


----------



## duncan1

MiceBlue-IF the center is negative- recommended for that product [invented by companies originally to stop customers using other power supplies - reversing the standard center positive] then Jameco is the one to go-GOOD company . Its got the lot=transformer and 1 amp at 100V =100W its not regulated but as I said in another post[after an argument with another poster] the over voltage does NOT matter as it is only some milliamps which will NOT blow any equipment that it is recommended for[voltage wise] if it did they would be out of business long ago with both the government closing them down [breaking international electrical laws] and customers suing them


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





ristar said:


> I'd say any of the transformers would work with the Jap DC power supply.
> 
> With regard to getting better power to the SRM-252 directly, you need to match it to the specs of the amp. It says 12V/4Watts... i.e. current should be ~330mA. So look for a power adapter that fits those specs with the right size jack and polarity. Why limit yourself to a certain brand/model when those guidelines give you enough to pick from various models?
> 
> ...


 
  Mmk. I ordered the Kashimura TI-101 transformer earlier this week.
   
  The reason why I was picking a linear one was because mechgamer123 bought a 12 V, 0.5 A(?) wall wart and it made strange noises with the SRM-252S. Because of that, people said to buy linear ones and I've been looking for one ever since.
   
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Why are you making this so complicated?  Your questions have been answered over and over...  Why do you insist on using a PSU rated for 100V when you know you've got US voltages?
> 
> Here... this will work fine, I've used it for a few years in the US.
> 
> ...


 
  I'll have to check the local Radio Shack to see if they have those components. The adapter just reverses the polarity? The description isn't very clear to me.
   
  Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I actually ordered it from eBay. It was marked as a new product and it was shipped from Japan via EMS. I paid ~$620 for it and it took 5 days to arrive at my house.


----------



## M-13

Once you get this whole adapter thing figured out miceblue please let me know as well, because I'm just as confused as you. LOL.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Once you get this whole adapter thing figured out miceblue please let me know as well, because I'm just as confused as you. LOL.


 
   
  Same here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quite interesting to see a sudden surge of interest in the 2170 system lately. If they sound good (my friend does have a voltage transformer he can use until this power supply thing gets figured out) then I may even go ahead and get 'em myself, the price from Japan is great these days.


----------



## shipsupt

Yes.  The adapter has two pins and can plug in only two ways.  You look at the diagram on the amp and match how you plug the adapter in to make sure the polarity is right.  There will be directions that come with the PSU and adapter.  It's really easy.
   
  It will look something like this (NOTE THIS IS ONLY AN EXAMPLE, it's not from the Amp):


----------



## duncan1

Maybe I didn't put this plain enough=Jameco--US 120/25 V PRIMARY   transformer using a transformer-NOT a SMPS OUTPUTTING- SECONDARY =12V at 1.5 AMPS . Their products are MADE in the USA! Does anything else need to be said!


----------



## shipsupt

Maybe you need to re-format it.


----------



## duncan1

Tell me shipsupt WHY cant people read what I post ?? Is it the new teaching methods that are a complete failure in the UK--As you should know living here. Leaving school unable to read or write- All down to politically correct methods which have been a COMPLETE failure here. No learning by rote Times tables / alphabet .verbs nouns etc. I am not blaming the students only the system -which has failed-even Cameron admits that. If people cant read what I post then they cant read newspapers etc.Its ALL in English.


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> Tell me shipsupt WHY cant people read what I post ?? Is it the new teaching methods that are a complete failure in the UK--As you should know living here. Leaving school unable to read or write- All down to politically correct methods which have been a COMPLETE failure here. No learning by rote Times tables / alphabet .verbs nouns etc. I am not blaming the students only the system -which has failed-even Cameron admits that. If people cant read what I post then they cant read newspapers etc.Its ALL in English.


 
   
  Here's why:


----------



## shipsupt

I can't really say.  I'm a yank living the UK.  I didn't go to school here.
   
  Seems the boys here now have several good options now for their power supplies and adapters.  Hopefully they can enjoy their STAX soon without worrying so much!


----------



## duncan1

So tus-chan- they cant read my posts because I don't hit a  key?  The words are spaced as in a newspaper they are separate.But they still don't understand English?? If that was the case  they couldn't reply as they wouldn't know what I said. I have no intention of conforming to somebodies philosophy or set of rules by force. It just makes me combative.


----------



## K_19

Wow, apparently the 2170 system has just arrived at my friend's house 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  It's only been like 6 days since the payment was made. Those PriceJapan guys sure are fast!
   
  Will be going over to his house tonight to do some listening... looking forward to hearing how the Stax basic system sounds like


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Wow, apparently the 2170 system has just arrived at my friend's house
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 





 Let us know


----------



## sachu

the lower end stax systems aren't worth the trouble IMHO. But its okay to check them out to see if the sound is to your liking or not. Go 007MK1 or MK2 at least. 
   
  You are better off experimenting with orthos otherwise.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> So tus-chan- they cant read my posts because I don't hit a  key?  The words are spaced as in a newspaper they are separate.But they still don't understand English?? If that was the case  they couldn't reply as they wouldn't know what I said. I have no intention of conforming to somebodies philosophy or set of rules by force. It just makes me combative.


 
  You are so weird. You sound like a cyborg hellbent on ranting about the education system in the UK for some odd reason. Please start conforming for our sake and for your own sake I might add.
   
  And yes use the "Enter" key and try to write like the rest of us so that we know what the heck you're trying to say. The point of communication is... communication.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





sachu said:


> the lower end stax systems aren't worth the trouble IMHO. But its okay to check them out to see if the sound is to your liking or not. Go 007MK1 or MK2 at least.
> 
> You are better off experimenting with orthos otherwise.


 
  Interesting...
   
  Can you elaborate a bit more? Specifically about lower end Stax (207) vs. current Orthos like the LCD-2/HE-500?
   
  What makes the 007 "worth it" in your opinion? What changes when going from lambda to 007?


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> HAM noise? I would think this refers to HAM Radio interference. (Amateur Radio).


 
   
  I have this brochure, they actually mean HUM NOISE!   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I don't have an energiser though?
> 
> So yesterday, er 0:15 today, I tried this:
> Wall outlet -> surge protector -> Kill-a-Watt -> 100 V wall wart -> SRM-252S
> ...


 
   
  By energizer I mean the SRM-252S......basically the headphone amplifier.
  I think you mean the Kill-A-Watt reading is *124.7 *Vac and 10 Watts?
  Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> CriJ-This intrigues me.
> In the past 5--10 years most if not all power supplies that pug into a wall  are switch mode. This is an industry benefit as it is a lot cheaper to buy SMPS parts in bulk than big transformers . It means to the customer that the PS is slim /lightweight and can easily output a lot of current.
> But if you mean "don't buy SMPS for Audio---I quite AGREE! Watch the film of 2 of them on a social network and the illegal copy can be heard with the ear and on an AM radio.What I did not know was that you can still get wall warts with--MAINS transformers in them Is that the case in the US??? most have been changed in the UK to SMPS . If you need a current of several amps they have got to be big and heavy  small ones proved unreliable due to being enclosed in a plastic shell and blew their internal fuses[internal in the transformer windings]
> Hope you can "put me straight" on this? ---Just noticed Miceblues post and he says it works just fine ? so I take it it is a SMPS [universal] ???- transformer would blow or be way overvoltage   -maybe more info from Miceblue?


 
  Ahhhhh........an SMPS question!   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  My attempt at a short answer....................
  Yes, I agree a SMPS is usually a good thing.
  The wall wart I got with my SRS-2170 is definitely an "old school" bulky transformer, unregulated linear power supply.
  It's too damn heavy to be a SMPS.
  I strongly suspect the problem with replacing my wall wart with an SMPS is that I will then have that SMPS driving the SMPS in the SRM-252S.
  Problem is........The SRM-252S needs to use the 12 Vdc input and still create a 580 Vdc bias for the SR-207.
  The way to do this is to use a DC-DC converter to convert 12 vdc into 580 Vdc.  (This is all built into the SRM-252S BTW).
_Basically a modern DC-DC converter is an SMPS by another name_.
  Problem is that the switching frequency of a 12 Vdc SMPS may interfere with the switching frequency of the DC-DC converter.
  Switching frequency may be 50 kHz or 100 kHz or 500 kHz......basically it will be a very high frequncy.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Interesting...
> 
> Can you elaborate a bit more? Specifically about lower end Stax (207) vs. current Orthos like the LCD-2/HE-500?
> 
> What makes the 007 "worth it" in your opinion? What changes when going from lambda to 007?


 
   
  Having been in this crazyness a good while now, having owned labmdas, 407, had the 507 on extended loan, the SRM001mk2, owned the 007 and the 009. That's what. 
   
  The lower end models sacrifice way too much in the audio range while excelling in one or two areas. IF you are someone who can put up with that or are extremely bass shy and/or like treble happiness, then by all means you will be happy with the lower end models. This is not to say those who prefer this sort of sound are wrong inherently. If that's what you like, that's what you like.
   
  If you someone who prefers some meat to the music you are listening to, the stax headphones that come close to mimic that are the 507, 009 (when driven with specific amps only) and 007 (which sounds pretty darn decent even with the infamously under powered 007T. 
   
  I use a Liquid Lightning powering the 007mk1 after I determined that the tonal characteristics of it was better to my ears over the 009, price not withstanding. 
   
  The orthos don't really have major flaws like the lower end stax  have, that is performing rather crappily in certain areas of the audio range.


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





sachu said:


> the lower end stax systems aren't worth the trouble IMHO. But its okay to check them out to see if the sound is to your liking or not. Go 007MK1 or MK2 at least.


 
   
  Well done, sachu. You might just have provided the shark-jumping that I needed to unsubscribe from this thread.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





beefy said:


> Well done, sachu. You might just have provided the shark-jumping that I needed to unsubscribe from this thread.


 
  word brotha


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> So I ask for the third time now, will this work?
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
> 
> 120 V AC 60Hz primary voltage
> ...


 
  Option #1:
*Yes, that will work.*
  12 Vdc Output, 18 Watts
  120 Vac Input
  Unregulated linear, centre negative.
   
  The contact person form Japan should have pointed out what RsStar siad:
  The system may work for a while, but the higher power supply voltage you get from your 100 Vac wall wart will stress the components in the SRM-252S and shorten the life of that amp.
  It may fail after a few weeks or months......hard to say.


----------



## miceblue

^ Yeah I wasn't planning to use the SRS-2170 very much with the 100 V wall wart. Yesterday's session was basically for a test.

@ sachu

Considering I don't have a spare some $3000 USD lying around and I didn't like any of the planar magnetics, and other dynamic headphones from meets, I think the $650 I spent on the Basic STAX is quite worth the trouble. I've tried your MKI on the LL and although it was good, the Lambdas have a more lively/engaging sound that I prefer.

Not to mention the Lambdas are more comfortable to me and they're easier to put on/take off one's head.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> ^ Yeah I wasn't planning to use the SRS-2170 very much with the 100 V wall wart. Yesterday's session was basically for a test.
> 
> @ sachu
> 
> Considering I don't have a spare some $3000 USD lying around and I didn't like any of the planar magnetics, and other dynamic headphones from meets, I think the $650 I spent on the Basic STAX is quite worth the trouble. I've tried your MKI on the LL and although it was good, the Lambdas have a more lively/engaging sound that I prefer.


 
  there ya go..you know what you like. Enjoy man


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> And also for the third time here, will this work?
> http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/product_info.php?category_id=10016468&products_id=10061420
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Those two converters will work, they will convert 120 Vac into 100 Vac for you, but I recommend the new wall wart as that is a simpler, cleaner solution.
   
  With the two converters listed above you are plugging one transformer into another transformer (the wall wart). It works but it's overly complicated and will just create more magnetic field. May not be a problem, but why take the chance?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Ah okay. I already ordered the latter of the two so we'll see how that turns out. I might order the JAMECO wall wart if the local Radio Shack doesn't have the other wall wart + adaptor in-stock.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Chris J* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_203036_-1
> 
> ...


 
   
  Was gonna get this but then I see that since I'm in Canada and international I require at least $30 worth of purchase for them to ship it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  If anyone on this thread is thinking of getting this wall wart and is able to get another one and ship one here for my friend here please PM me... it'd be appreciated.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Ah okay. I already ordered the latter of the two so we'll see how that turns out. I might order the JAMECO wall wart if the local Radio Shack doesn't have the other wall wart + adaptor in-stock.


 
    On the radio shack page there is a manual for the adaptor:  Here is a screen shot of the polarity directions just to help clarify it:


----------



## M-13

Who says the Stax thread isn't helpful? You guys are great. I think I get it now.


----------



## reiserFS

Must resist urge to argue about this.
  Quote: 





sachu said:


> the lower end stax systems aren't worth the trouble IMHO. But its okay to check them out to see if the sound is to your liking or not. Go 007MK1 or MK2 at least.
> 
> You are better off experimenting with orthos otherwise.


----------



## Chris J

reiserfs said:


> Must resist urge to argue about this.




I know what you mean!


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





chris j said:


> I know what you mean!


 
   
   
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Must resist urge to argue about this.


 
  Deep breaths, count to ten, and move on...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 removes stick from beehive and steps slowly back...


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Deep breaths, count to ten, and move on...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Don't bears eat honey?


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Don't bears eat honey?


 
  Yes, yes they do...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  But they can still get stung...


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Yes, yes they do...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Hence you're taking shelter in water? I like it.


----------



## autoteleology

duncan1 said:


> So tus-chan- they cant read my posts because I don't hit a  key?  The words are spaced as in a newspaper they are separate.But they still don't understand English?? If that was the case  they couldn't reply as they wouldn't know what I said. I have no intention of conforming to somebodies philosophy or set of rules by force. It just makes me combative.


 
   
  Nobody can read what you write because you completely disregard any rules of readability or formatting. A newspaper or magazine does the exact opposite of this; in fact, they employ proofreaders, editors, photographers, artists, and designers for the sole purpose of making their product as readable and intuitive as possible.
   
  You're the person complaining that nobody understood or listened to your suggestions, and it's because nobody can be bothered to slog through a huge, unformatted block of text in order to get to the information. It has nothing to do with how well educated the other party is, and there is nothing special about your English that would require a doctorate in literature to understand. If the purpose of your posts are to communicate with people, then it helps to make it as easy as possible to understand what you are trying to communicate.
   
  As far as "conforming to someone else's philosophy", your position on this is like standing out in the middle of the road, getting hit by a car, and claiming that it was because the driver wasn't skilled enough to swerve around you. The driver is not the problem in this situation.


----------



## DefQon

Who cares if people can't read it or not Duncan gets straight to the point with his posts unlike a large percentagr here


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





sachu said:


> the lower end stax systems aren't worth the trouble IMHO. But its okay to check them out to see if the sound is to your liking or not. Go 007MK1 or MK2 at least.
> 
> You are better off experimenting with orthos otherwise.


 
  If by lower end stax systems you mean = Lambdas, Gamma, SR-5 worse than Orthos? I think you're completely wrong.
  Orthos have their benefits and their consequent negatives. Stock orthos, Yamaha HP-1, HP-2, and multitude others all suck big time in stock form. It is only with modding they get anywhere.
  The so-called "lower end stax systems" actually beat them even when they are modded.


----------



## miceblue

HiFiMan planar magnetics have a messy treble and the Audezes have a dark sound signature. Both are not present in the ST-207 I have.

I ain't paying for the messy treble in the Abyss either.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> If by lower end stax systems you mean = Lambdas, Gamma, SR-5 worse than Orthos? I think you're completely wrong.
> Orthos have their benefits and their consequent negatives. Stock orthos, Yamaha HP-1, HP-2, and multitude others all suck big time in stock form. It is only with modding they get anywhere.
> The so-called "lower end stax systems" actually beat them even when they are modded.


 
  Like has been said I think it goes back to what you like, I also don't think any "gaining of knowledge" (i.e. trying out low and high end rigs) is a waste of time, You do not know if you like it unless you try it and decide for yourself. 
   
  And Yeah, I like my "low end" Lambdas very much thank you...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but I also like my "higher end" dynamics and orthos. I will also be auditioning some "higher end" stats in the near future, cuz I gots to know...


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> HiFiMan planar magnetics have a messy treble and the Audezes have a dark sound signature. Both are not present in the ST-207 I have.
> 
> I ain't paying for the messy treble in the Abyss either.


 
  Hey Hey man, my HE-500 has nice silky treble. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  But then again... is it Stax silky? I have no idea... Only buying the 2170 will help me answer that.


----------



## DefQon

All the orthos I have owned, played with and modded have a meh treble range.


----------



## miceblue

m-13 said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > HiFiMan planar magnetics have a messy treble and the Audezes have a dark sound signature. Both are not present in the ST-207 I have.
> ...




Cymbal hits at around 9-10 kHz sounded pretty tizzy to me with the HE-500.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Cymbal hits at around 9-10 kHz sounded pretty tizzy to me with the HE-500.


 
  Ah I C. I don't listen to a lot of cymbols... so I can neither confirm or deny this. But the HE-500 does peak around 10k, so you might be right as far as I know. How are you liking your 2170 so far? Any impression against previous cans you've owned?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> All the orthos I have owned, played with and modded have a meh treble range.


 

 No transducer technology comes close to the treble of electrostats.


----------



## DefQon

The HD800 on a good setup imo comes pretty close better than a good 90% of the Lambdas I've heard/owned but also comes off as a good sidegrade too. But you would need to spend the extra $$$. The HE-6 is the only ortho that I can give credit too of being very close to the 009 in some aspects of sound. The rest is all garbage including that new Abyss-mal headphone that I finally had the chance to hear.

This is overall sound not just treble extension.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> ^ Yeah I wasn't planning to use the SRS-2170 very much with the 100 V wall wart. Yesterday's session was basically for a test.
> 
> @ sachu
> 
> ...


 
  Imo, the 007-9 have good aesthetics. I find it quite classy and pleasing to look at compared to the Lambda models. 
   
  Something I think I could eventually afford (if I sold off all my gear for a set). Worth it for the design , oh and of course the sound. 
  Quote: 





defqon said:


>


 
  Ok, I give up on making the 202s work again. I'll be staying away from Yahoo Auctions/Ebay from now on. I'll stick to the official stores (Fujiya). Will prob be getting a used 407 from Fujiya. 
   
  I'm worried that the 252A won't be able to power it sufficiently though... should I shell out more money? The 202 loss was already quite unexpected...so maybe I could conserve the money and just use that with the 407?
   
  And how does the 407 fair? in general? with the Lambda line.
   
  edit: Oh, how would I know if it's the SRM's fault, not the phones?
   
   
   
  sigh... so depressed.


----------



## n3rdling

You'll need another electrostatic headphone or amp to determine easily.  Otherwise you can use a multimeter and measure at the socket to at least see if the amp is working.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> What the fak is "ham noise."
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  It's "Hum noise". In Japanese, their pronunciation of "a" is closer to how we'd pronounce "u" in most words, such as "bus". They phonetically spell "bus" as "basu". It is pronounced the same way though.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I'm worried that the 252A won't be able to power it sufficiently though... should I shell out more money? The 202 loss was already quite unexpected...so maybe I could conserve the money and just use that with the 407?
> 
> I like the way my 407 sounds with the 252 amp. A KGSSHV or BH would be better. Conserve now, pay more later.
> 
> ...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Ok, I give up on making the 202s work again. I'll be staying away from Yahoo Auctions/Ebay from now on. I'll stick to the official stores (Fujiya). Will prob be getting a used 407 from Fujiya.
> 
> I'm worried that the 252A won't be able to power it sufficiently though... should I shell out more money? The 202 loss was already quite unexpected...so maybe I could conserve the money and just use that with the 407?
> 
> ...


 
   
  DId you get channel imbalance at the start when you received them?
   
  Definitely not the amp's fault this seem's to be the 202's. If you can let them continuously play and hopefully it cures itself (based on spritzers advice, recommendation and experience as the same he told me), then you're going to help a lot of folks including myself when we run into "temporary channel imbalance". 
   
  A 252A will power the 407, just not to it's potential.
   
  And yeah, as I told you while ago, I'am no longer buying used vintage gear from Yahoo Japan as well (except deals too good to pass on, pads, accessories, stands and NIB's amps/headphones). The last items I purchased from them left a sour taste to my experience, one being channel imbalance, amp stopped working, squealing noise out of the second 404 I bought but managed to fix it. Those Japanese sellers are never clear with descriptions and pictures of the items. Google translate also sucks arse and no returns is a PITA.
   
  Don't sell off the 202 yet.


----------



## shipsupt

To be fair, all of the initial request for Duncan to reformat were prefaced with a message like "I really appreciated the valuable content you provided but I struggled to read it".  People want to read what he has to say, that's why they care.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Who cares if people can't read it or not Duncan gets straight to the point with his posts unlike a large percentagr here


----------



## n3rdling

TBH I figured duncan was just a guy from Hong Kong or something using google translate so I only bothered to read the first 4 or so words of his block posts.  Formatting makes a huge difference, even if you think it's caving into "the man" or whatever.


----------



## DefQon

Yeh his a posts can be a PITA to read it, but hey people will just to tell you to deal and get over  it like the amount of beats threads or best headphone for $xx threads from new posters. I keep thinking Duncan is Ben Duncan a diy'er from UK.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> TBH I figured duncan was just a guy from Hong Kong or something using google translate so I only bothered to read the first 4 or so words of his block posts.  Formatting makes a huge difference, even if you think it's caving into "the man" or whatever.


 
   
  This more or less, except people from HK who speak English would know better, and people using Google translate are actually putting in some effort to make their posts easier to read. I think it's just inconsiderate.


----------



## milosz

I've seen a bunch of discussion here about wall warts that come with Stax boxes not working on 120 VAC US current.
   
  As far as I know, many (not all) switching power supplies really don't care what the input voltage is- they will work on 100v, 120v, 220v, 240v.... and they will regulate the output voltage as designed no matter what the input VAC is.
   
  Not sure if the Stax wall warts are of this type, but you could check how well they regulate under load-  
   
  By the way, I am taking up a collection to send _ENTER_ keys to anyone who is too poor to afford one for their computer or tablet; PM me....


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> You'll need another electrostatic headphone or amp to determine easily.  Otherwise you can use a multimeter and measure at the socket to at least see if the amp is working.


 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


>


 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> DId you get channel imbalance at the start when you received them?
> 
> Definitely not the amp's fault this seem's to be the 202's. If you can let them continuously play and hopefully it cures itself (based on spritzers advice, recommendation and experience as the same he told me), then you're going to help a lot of folks including myself when we run into "temporary channel imbalance".
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks for the help guys. I'll continue to plug in my 202s and see if any changes occur.


----------



## DefQon

Found the culprit to my SRM-1 MK1 amp problem. Cheers to duncan and Birgir for the help managed to solve this one myself tonight. Time to drown myself in some Heineken and order some jfets.


----------



## shipsupt

So, a jfet was the culprit?


----------



## Chris J

milosz said:


> I've seen a bunch of discussion here about wall warts that come with Stax boxes not working on 120 VAC US current.
> 
> As far as I know, many (not all) switching power supplies really don't care what the input voltage is- they will work on 100v, 120v, 220v, 240v.... and they will regulate the output voltage as designed no matter what the input VAC is.
> 
> Not sure if the Stax wall warts are of this type, but you could check how well they regulate under load-




One more time........


I have an SRS-2170.
The wall wart provided with it Is NOT a switch mode power supply.
It clearly says 120 Vac, 60 Hz.
Plug in Class 2 transformer.
And it has some weight to it.
And has very poor output voltage regulation.
My line voltage is 119.5 Vac
Wall wart measures 17.6 Vdc no load (i.e. not plugged into SRM-252S).
Wall wart measures 12.35 Vdc under load ( i.e. powering the SRM-252S).
There is an SG3524N in the SRM-252S, this is a controller for an SMPS.

As a precautionary measure I would never advise someone to drive an SMPS with another SMPS. Has anyone asked Stax for an opinion?

I have more than a few audio components that do use SMPS wall warts, but they all read:
Input: 100-240 Vac, 50/60 Hz and weigh next to nothing.


----------



## davidsh

Sachu, how do you feel about the vintage lambdas?


----------



## duncan1

I do not know what to add to ChrisJ last post it  pretty much says it all =mains transformer fed to unregulated output but as I have said before the measured voltage under no load although much higher  reduces down to just over 12V DC -under LOAD. Remember a digital MM has a 10 MEG  input -it therefore consumes little current when testing certainly less than will reduce the -NO load current and therefore the voltage to  12 V DC . Therefore proving the point that it doesn't matter about using -UNREGULATED wall warts as they don't -blow  the Stax units or for that matter any other piece of electronic equipment--UNLESS it is professional very high quality  medical/ laboratory equipment that requires extremely low ripple/high voltage regulation.So all in all a non-event really.


----------



## EveTan

How would a 307 + SRM 323 be vs a 407 + SRM 252A. Just so I can get an idea of how important the amp is in a setup.


----------



## ChiAki

Hi, 
   
  Looking for a new amp for my 009. Just sold my 727 and wanting a new amp that costs around $3000.
  I've never compared my 727 with any other non-stax amps, that said, I am very open to opinions 
  Hope you guys can help me pick an amp. I mainly listen to piano and violin concertos and symphonies. 
  Anime music is also included often times 
   
  Thx


----------



## DefQon

KGSSHV/Megatron time?


----------



## shipsupt

Yep, $3k isn't going to give you many 3rd part amp options unless you DIY.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





chris j said:


> One more time........
> 
> 
> I have an SRS-2170.
> ...


 
   
  The problem here is stacking two switchers which will lead to issues.  Now how big of a problem really depends on the designs involved but you would at least get a low level hum. 
   
  If anybody wants to try this out then send me a PM.  I have some small swithers I modified for Stax use a while back gathering dust that I could sell at cost.  Worst case they will get your Japanese amp up and running.


----------



## Beefy

Jesus H Christ, with all this whining and confusion, somebody needs to start manufacturing sigma11's to power these things for the US market.


----------



## livewire

Sprither has swithers?


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> *HiFiMan planar magnetics have a messy treble* and the Audezes have a dark sound signature. Both are not present in the ST-207 I have.
> 
> I ain't paying for the messy treble in the Abyss either.


 
  I would say this deserves a IMO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I don't know what your audio chain consists of.  However, what I do know is the HE-6, HE-5LE, HE-500s have some of the best sounding treble in the game.  As the old cliché goes..  "maybe you need to tweak you audio chain"  Again, I have no idea what your upstream gear consists of.
   
  I've played with the HE-6, HE-5LE, HE-4, and HE-500s on all sorts of headphone amps and speaker amps.  What I've found is that with pretty good amping these headphones are pretty darn good in the treble area ie...  No messy treble at all.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
   
  You have to work harder to get the HE-6 right.  On an amp like the GS-X mk2 the HE-500s are among the best with it's silky smooth treble.  It just lacks a bit of treble extension that I like with the HE-6 and the HE-5LE.
   
  Both Audeze treble sound shelved in comparisons to my ears..  
   
  All IMO of course. 
   
   
  The lowest e-stat headphone I plan on getting is the KOSS 950s.  So I'll be able to compare more when my rig is ready.  So, sometime soon I'll have the KGSSHV-DX with the 950s and the 009s.  I hope I can find a good pair of 007mk1s sometime soon as well.


----------



## gilency

What the heck is a KGSSHV-DX?


----------



## K_19

So tried the 2170 system for about 3 hours last night in this chain: Macbook Air -> M2Tech Hiface -> Stello DA100 (Coax) -> SRM-252S (connected through a Jameco voltage converter from 100v to 120v) -> SR-207.
   
  First the comfort (which I happen to be really picky about): These were actually heavier than I expected... I expected something like a ESP950 type lightweight headphone, but it definitely had more heft to it than that. Build definitely felt solid though. It IMO is actually pretty comfortable with moderate clamp, but it does clamp more at the bottom bit... It was actually better for me because I happen to have very sensitive cheekbones and face muscles and can't wear many headphones that clamp down on the face area for too long (the reason why I couldn't ever wear HD600/650 for too long). Fortunately they do swivel very slightly and do have angled pads, which conforms to my face pretty well and create a good seal (could never achieve this that well with the ESP950 because they don't swivel or have angled pads). They farted a lot which means the seal was perfect 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Overall, more than comfortable enough for 2-3 hour listening sessions, although since the pads were pleather I did experience a lot of sweat build up.  The SRM-252S amp reminded me of the Gilmore Lite; they are of similar size and felt very well built, lightyears ahead of something like Koss's E90. They have surprising amount of gain - 10 o'clock to 11 o'clock on the volume range were plenty for most modern materials for me and anything beyond that was ear splitting.  No split volume control on this thing like the other higher-end Stax amps, and they have the power switch built into the volume control.  Overall a very nice amp with a good slim form factor.
   
  As for the sound, they do have rolloffs at the both ends of the extreme frequency ranges but have decent levels of detail and have very tight midbass without much bloat at all.  Sounded pretty good for pretty much all genres I felt.  To me it sounded quite fun in my rig above despite some reports to the contrary that they sound a bit boring... I didn't feel that way at all.  However, I did feel that they had a bit of an uneven midrange with some upper midrange prominence... in certain materials where the female vocals were forward, this made the vocals sound somewhat shouty and unpleasant... but for most modern materials I didn't feel that it was too huge of a deal.  They weren't sibilant at all though which was great.  The treble was there but near my LCD-2 level prominence I felt (perhaps slightly more), but definitely with more air around it. Didn't feel overly bright in my rig at least. Somewhat grainy compared to my current LCD-2's and my old 007's, but never expected them to match them in those areas... soundstage was adequate and good.  
   
  Overall, I felt that it was a very decent package for the price you can get it for nowadays ($500~$600 new).  Compared to midrange headphones such as HD600/650's, K701s, DT880's, etc, I certainly felt that these are superior, and if you consider the amp that you'd need to acquire for those dynamic headphones it would typically push the price range higher than this combination... so from my short listening session anyway these outperformed mid range dynamic headphone rigs, but compared to the next level up, such as LCD-2's, TH900's, HE500's, etc., I wasn't so sure. Think I preferred the LCD-2's in most aspects to them still.  Compared to it's other stat competitor though, the ESP950's, I think I may prefer these instead, if anything due to the better build quality of both the headphones and the amp, as well as the comfort level.  Sound quality wise I felt that the 207's were a bit less exaggerated than the ESP950's (which have forward bass and midrange) and more balanced overall.
   
  Not something I'd get at this very moment as I don't feel they outperform the LCD-2's to my taste (my secondary headphones) and have the 009's coming my way, thus wouldn't get much playing time anyway.  But definitely something I can recommend to someone who wants to get started with E-Stats, especially at the current prices.


----------



## livewire

@ gilency -
  I believe he meant to say KGSS-DX.
  It is a rare (early?) HeadAmp variant of the KGSS. Taller and not as wide as Justin's other KGSS build.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





k_19 said:


>


 
  Glad my impression weren't that off from yours. Although you did a much better job wording it .


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





k_19 said:


>


 
  Great write up man. It was a pleasure reading it. Grainier than the LCD-2 huh? That's really unexpected for me because I had the false assumption that E-Stats, no matter how low on the tier, always had faster transients and a cleaner/less grainy sound. I guess the planars have caught up somewhat, atleast to the lower tier lambdas.


----------



## K_19

m-13 said:


> Great write up man. It was a pleasure reading it. Grainier than the LCD-2 huh? That's really unexpected for me because I had the false assumption that E-Stats, no matter how low on the tier, always had faster transients and a cleaner/less grainy sound. I guess the planars have caught up somewhat, atleast to the lower tier lambdas.




My old 007's and incoming 009's are definitely much cleaner than the LCD-2's. LCD-2's also have this weightiness and presence that's different from stats and is enjoyable in their own way with many materials. These 207's and ESP950's definitely felt grainier to my ears but they do still have fast speed and airiness so it really depends on what you value more IMO.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> My old 007's and incoming 009's are definitely much cleaner than the LCD-2's. LCD-2's also have this weightiness and presence that's different from stats and is enjoyable in their own way with many materials. These 207's and ESP950's definitely felt grainier to my ears though. But they do still have fast speed and airiness so it really depends on what you value more IMO.


 
  I think I "get it". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks to your review I can almost imagine the sound in my own ears. I do still plan on exploring the 2170 system, but I'm also going to look into adding the LCD-2 again. But my HE-500 is the dog's balls for now. I'm happy with them.


----------



## K_19

m-13 said:


> I think I "get it".
> 
> 
> 
> ...




It would be a great compliment to your Planars IMO. I think both planar and estat technology have their own charm that can't quite be found in the other, and I'd certainly have both around if you can. That's why I reacquired the LCD-2's even though I have 009's on my way, I knew I'd miss my meaty Planar bass and upfront midrange every now and then.


----------



## miceblue

On the STAX user manual, it says:
  SR-207 - "Basic"
 SR-303 - "Classic"
  SR-407 - "Signature"
   
  So...what's the SR-507 then? Failure?
   
  I'm going to try a modded SR-507 today at a local meet, as well as the SR-007 and SR-009 on the Eddie Current Electra amp.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> On the STAX user manual, it says:
> SR-207 - "Basic"
> SR-303 - "Classic"
> SR-407 - "Signature"
> ...


 
  The SR-507 is the Signature "Signatures."
   
  Signature Kai
  Signature the improved
  The Elite Signature...
   
  ...and my creativity runs dry here.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> If by lower end stax systems you mean = Lambdas, Gamma, SR-5 worse than Orthos? I think you're completely wrong.
> Orthos have their benefits and their consequent negatives. Stock orthos, Yamaha HP-1, HP-2, and multitude others all suck big time in stock form. It is only with modding they get anywhere.
> The so-called "lower end stax systems" actually beat them even when they are modded.


 
   yes, those are what I mean by lower end stax systems.They do nothing more than bleed my ears off. You have your view I've got mine when it comes to orthos.


----------



## DefQon

Sachu how was the modded Assemblage dac 3 you had in your Stax chain before you sold it?


----------



## mechgamer123

shipsupt said:


> Why are you making this so complicated?  Your questions have been answered over and over...  Why do you insist on using a PSU rated for 100V when you know you've got US voltages?
> 
> Here... this will work fine, I've used it for a few years in the US.
> 
> ...



Oh my gosh! I have the 400ma version of that from when I was a kid! I'll try that when get home... 



dukeskd said:


> defqon said:
> 
> 
> > All the orthos I have owned, played with and modded have a meh treble range.
> ...



This. Even the LCD2 heard sounded weird in the treble.

@Eve: send me your 202 and amp and I'll see if the amp or the headphones are at fault!


----------



## reiserFS

Look what popped up on flea bay:
   
  http://www.ebay.de/itm/STAX-SRM-3-Driver-unit-/200947156029?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item2ec962443d


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





gilency said:


> What the heck is a KGSSHV-DX?


 
   
  Contact Lil Knight


----------



## bobkatz

I think that the quality of the amplifier is as important as anything when comparing the two technologies, planar and e-stat. I have a KGSS driving my Omega 2s and it's pure as silk and kicks ass, with tremendous dynamic headroom. If you use a low impedance drive, high wattage dynamic headphone amplifier with good power supply and technology to drive your planars, then you can A/B the questions of harshness or purity of tone. You may find that the E-Stat is just as pure if not more pure when driven by a good amp with as much voltage swing as the KGSS.
   
  If I ever get the Audeze phones (which sound awesome by all reports) I'll make sure I'm driving it with an amp of equivalent quality to the KGSS I'm using on my Stax. And vice versa, anyone who judges Stax "tonality" against the planars should make sure he's using a suitable Stax amplifier. Sadly, I haven't found any amp made by Stax themselves to be adequate to the ultimate task.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> I do not know what to add to ChrisJ last post it  pretty much says it all =mains transformer fed to unregulated output but as I have said before the measured voltage under no load although much higher  reduces down to just over 12V DC -under LOAD. Remember a digital MM has a 10 MEG  input -it therefore consumes little current when testing certainly less than will reduce the -NO load current and therefore the voltage to  12 V DC . Therefore proving the point that it doesn't matter about using -UNREGULATED wall warts as they don't -blow  the Stax units or for that matter any other piece of electronic equipment--UNLESS it is professional very high quality  medical/ laboratory equipment that requires extremely low ripple/high voltage regulation.So all in all a non-event really.


 
   
  Fer schizzle, I think I missed yer point last time.
  Then I agree, do not fear the unloaded voltage from an unregulated power supply.
   
  Which reminds me, a dose of common sense y'all. I was thinking......(don't laugh!).........
  If Stax thought a switch mode wall wart was a good idea, then they would have provided ONE, instead of stocking different linear, unregulted supplies for various parts of the globe:  100 V for Japan, 120 v for N. Ameria, 230 Volts for UK and EU, etc, etc.
  Quote: 





k_19 said:


> So tried the 2170 system for about 3 hours last night in this chain: Macbook Air -> M2Tech Hiface -> Stello DA100 (Coax) -> SRM-252S (connected through a Jameco voltage converter from 100v to 120v) -> SR-207.
> 
> Build definitely felt solid though. It IMO is actually pretty comfortable with moderate clamp, but it does clamp more at the bottom bit... It was actually better for me because I happen to have very sensitive cheekbones and face muscles and can't wear many headphones that clamp down on the face area for too long (the reason why I couldn't ever wear HD600/650 for too long). Fortunately they do swivel very slightly and do have angled pads, which conforms to my face pretty well and create a good seal (could never achieve this that well with the ESP950 because they don't swivel or have angled pads).
> 
> ...


 
   
  Nice write up.
  IMO, the SR-207 are real comfy.
  Gotta agree about the HD600/650, K70x, Q701, DT880s and let's throw in the lower priced Grados........personally I prefer the SR-2170 system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I even prefer them over similar priced HiFiMan stuff and the LCDs I've heard. Hell, I even prefer then over the ESPs!
  Like I said, just my opinion.
   
  I really recommend the SRS-2170 to anyone who wants an upgrade from HD600/650, AKGs, Beyer DT and all the other usual suspects.
   
  Looks like I'm going to be selling some headphones..................


----------



## DefQon

I personally find the HD600/650 (the 600 being more neutral and less dark) a good sidegrade to the Stax system up to the 404 or 507. Even spritzer likes them. For classical piano sonatas I reach for my 600 most of the time over any of my stat's. Piano strings have more body and sound more natural, the stat's on the other hand sound bit cold or fake sounding but with great extension and delivers clean passages in between different instruments.
   
  For all other classical or instrumental, orchestra and large symphony works, my 202 or 600 off the SRD-7SB MK2 energizer off my 85wpc hybrid tube amp.  
   
  For metal and rock, my modded FA-011's and LCD2's.
   
  For vocal music, SR-5 off the SRM-1 once I get the Jfet's replaced.
   
  For electronic (trance, light techno, house, progressive stuff), my 404/Lambda Pro + 323S.
   
  For hardcore/darkcore industrial electronic music (basshead stuff), my modded Senn HD438
   
  For drum and bass and progressive house, my Lambda Pro and Gamma Pro's
   
  For transportable, SR-002 mkII off the Xh 
   
  For portable, SR-002mkII + SRM-001
   
   
  Occasionally I would go around and ask my mate for my Omega's and his 007mk1's to do some comparison's and such. 
   
  Btw @ this link posted:
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SRM-3-Driver-unit-/200947156029?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item2ec962443d&clk_rvr_id=504582014816
   
  That is quite high of a price for a SRM-3 which is essentially an Xh except with a proper PSU. In fact the last SRM-3 that was sold on Yahoo Japan was sold at $140-150 once currency has been exchanged.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





sachu said:


> No I still use the assemblage with my stat system.looking at possible replacements. Maybe a lynx hill..trying to get one of my buddies to send it my way on loan. Also looking at BMC new dac


 
  Ah cool, I remember you listed it up for F/S but must've taken it down and despite it being bit old school, it is a pretty good dac from what I've read. Been trying to get my hands on at least a dac 1 and mod it. Thanks


----------



## mechgamer123

Welp, I just got around to trying the replacement transformer DigiKey sent me, and that one produced the same buzzing sound as well. Plugged in my 1.5-12v 300mA Radioshack transformer (set to 12v of course) my uncle bought for me probably 10 years ago to power a Famicom clone I had, and it works like a charm. No buzzing to report!


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> So...what's the SR-507 then? Failure?


 
  No... It's the "Ham"


----------



## miceblue

I still really like the HD650 for rock music.

Also, what is this?


----------



## DefQon

That is a AB cryo'd modified SR-404 Signature.


----------



## SBranson

I'm on the hunt for some SR-007 Mk1's but a set of the Mk2's with the upgraded Mk3 drivers are up for sale in Canada.  Is there somewhere in this crazy thread that talks about these new drivers?  Do they fix what are the general complaints about the Mk2's or do I stay on the hunt for the Mk1's?


----------



## livewire

gilency posted QUOTE: 'What the heck is a KGSSHV-DX ?'



preproman said:


> Contact Lil Knight




OMG! Figured he'd say sumpin like that.

For those who don't know, at another forum a group buy just finished that included
a newly designed mini board set for the KGSSHV.
It stands to reason that someone would coin the term 'DX' for this smaller build.
I'm sure that HeadAmp ain't got nuttin 2do wid it.


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





livewire said:


> gilency posted QUOTE: 'What the heck is a KGSSHV-DX ?'
> OMG! Figured he'd say sumpin like that.
> 
> For those who don't know, at another forum a group buy just finished that included
> ...


 
   
  You figured wrong - sorry.  Just take a look at lil knights sig - then report back..


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I personally find the HD600/650 (the 600 being more neutral and less dark) a good sidegrade to the Stax system up to the 404 or 507. Even spritzer likes them. For classical piano sonatas I reach for my 600 most of the time over any of my stat's. Piano strings have more body and sound more natural, the stat's on the other hand sound bit cold or fake sounding but with great extension and delivers clean passages in between different instruments.
> 
> For all other classical or instrumental, orchestra and large symphony works, my 202 or 600 off the SRD-7SB MK2 energizer off my 85wpc hybrid tube amp.
> 
> ...


 
   


 I agree with this! The HD 600 (not the HD 650) is a lovely headphone with the right amp e.g. Lake People G100 and a new cable it playes wonderfull for the price and the next step is more expensive.
   
  Whats your favorite Lambda Modell? I testet many of these and here is my conclusion:
   
  1. Lambda Signature or Lambda Pro (i can not decide between two 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
  2. Lambda Nova Signature
  3. Lambda SR-404 Signature Limited Edition
  4. Lambda SR-507
  5. Lambda SR-307 Classic
  6. Lambda SR-404 Signature
  7. Lambda SR-303 Classic
  8. Lambda SR-202 Basic
   
  The best amp for me with these Lambdas is the SRM-T1 or SRM-T1S.


----------



## autoteleology

> 7. Lambda SR-303 Classic


 
   
  Well, that makes me feel quite bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  How come you don't like them as much?


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Well, that makes me feel quite bad.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 They are very close to the SR-404 and a good Lambda, but the SR-404 that I have had a little more bass.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> 1. Lambda Signature or Lambda Pro (i can not decide between two
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  My list for the Lambda's vary a lot for the music I listen to, but if I were to categorise them in order of how well of it being an all-rounder. Includes current, owned and heard extensively models,
   
  1. LNS or Lambda Pro
  2. Sigma Pro
  3. 404 Sig or 303 
  4. 202 or Lambda or 207
  5. 407 or 307 or Nova Classic
  6. 507


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> My list for the Lambda's vary a lot for the music I listen to, but if I were to categorise them in order of how well of it being an all-rounder. Includes current, owned and heard extensively models,
> 
> 1. LNS or Lambda Pro
> 2. Sigma Pro
> ...


 
  Why are the 407/307/507 so low on the list?
   
  Do you also have a list for amps?


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Why are the 407/307/507 so low on the list?
> 
> Do you also have a list for amps?


 

 Here are my owned Stax amp list with the Lambdas:
   
  1. Stax SRM-T1 or Stax SRM-T1S
  2. Stax SRM-323S
  3. Stax SRM-1 MK2 Pro (C-Version)
  4. Stax SRM-006t
  5. Stax SRM-313 or 323A
  6. Stax SRM-212
  7. Stax SRM-252II
   
  I personally found the SR-307 a little bit to aggressive but with a good bass impact. The SR-507 wasn´t neutral width good highs and good bass.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Here are my owned Stax amp list with the Lambdas:
> 
> 1. Stax SRM-T1 or Stax SRM-T1S
> 2. Stax SRM-323S
> ...


 
  Hmm, that gets me thinking about selling my 2050 (channel imbalance is gone...so I guess this really is a come and go thing for Stax) and getting a 4040A set.


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Hmm, that gets me thinking about selling my 2050 (channel imbalance is gone...so I guess this really is a come and go thing for Stax) and getting a 4040A set.


 
   
  There's a 4040 II set on Audiogon at the moment for a decent price.  There is also.. (ahem)  a 006t and 404LE in the classifieds.
   
Sadly for me the Lambda Sig./ SRM-T1 is so highly rated as that was my first set and I sold it to "upgrade" but never really found an "upgrade" in the Lambda models yet.
I am still interested in the LNS though..  How does it compare to the Lambda Sig.?
   
But... I am excited to say I have an 007 Mk1 inbound..  Happy day.


----------



## miceblue

How about the SR-4004732 Signature Pro LE Nova Classic MKIII with the SRM-2507S MKII Kevin Gilmore Blue Hawaii?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> There's a 4040 II set on Audiogon at the moment for a decent price.  There is also.. (ahem)  a 006t and 404LE in the classifieds.
> 
> Sadly for me the Lambda Sig./ SRM-T1 is so highly rated as that was my first set and I sold it to "upgrade" but never really found an "upgrade" in the Lambda models yet.
> I am still interested in the LNS though..  How does it compare to the Lambda Sig.?
> ...


 
   
  Yea, I did see your listing. XD it's a bit pricy for my budget. And of course, if I don't sell my 2050, I'd have no funds. But thanks for the heads up. 
   
  Do you plan on going back to the Lambda Sigs? I'm too cautious of potential "permanent" channel imbalance due to age, so I probably won't go that path.


----------



## SBranson

Now that I have the 007mk1 inbound I will likely end there.  Paired with the SRM-007Tii, I need to work on the front end now.
   
  Still though, the Lambda Signatures were one of the nicest sounding headphones I've heard, but only with selected music.  With chamber music, baroque pieces or female vocals, they are so smooth.  They don't fare well with large scale pieces like orchestral music or electronic music.  They get muddied in the bottom end and don't have much bass anyway and if memory serves, they can get a little sharp in the upper mids(?) sometimes but like I said, in their element I much preferred them to the 507s.
  Right now I have the 404LE and 507 and I like the extra space in the 507, the 404LE being more intimate, and I like the extra detail over the 404LE but overall, I'm not sure that I don't prefer the 404LE.  I think it's one of those audiophile things.   Have you ever heard a system that is supposedly hyper-detailed but feels like a drill in the forehead?
  The 507s are "more interesting" but a little less musical.
   
  PS..  My Signatures were from the 80's, bought from the estate of the only owner and they had no imbalance, but I guess that's what the split volume knob is for.. eh?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Now that I have the 007mk1 inbound I will likely end there.  Paired with the SRM-007Tii, I need to work on the front end now.
> 
> Still though, the Lambda Signatures were one of the nicest sounding headphones I've heard, but only with selected music.  With chamber music, baroque pieces or female vocals, they are so smooth.  They don't fare well with large scale pieces like orchestral music or electronic music.  They get muddied in the bottom end and don't have much bass anyway and if memory serves, they can get a little sharp in the upper mids(?) sometimes but like I said, in their element I much preferred them to the 507s.
> Right now I have the 404LE and 507 and I like the extra space in the 507, the 404LE being more intimate, and I like the extra detail over the 404LE but overall, I'm not sure that I don't prefer the 404LE.  I think it's one of those audiophile things.   Have you ever heard a system that is supposedly hyper-detailed but feels like a drill in the forehead?
> ...


 
  After reading numerous on the models. I've only made myself more and more confused.
   
  Some say the 303=404, then does that mean the 307=407?
   
  Many also say that the 407+Pads=507
   
  And then I have no idea how the 404LE fits into this equation. I've heard that the 404Le=404+pads...
   
  I don't think I've heard the 202/7s sounding like anything in the lineup though.
   
  and I'll just skip all the vintage Staxes, which probably don't work well for my music.
   
  Can anyone help clarify? Or direct me in a good direction?


----------



## SBranson

Sorry, I can't help.  I've only tried 3 different lambdas extensively and they are all quite different.


----------



## EveTan

Stumbled upon this... and it isn't exactly making anything clearer.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/557380/stax-404-507


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Why are the 407/307/507 so low on the list?
> 
> Do you also have a list for amps?


 
  Because the 507/ 307 and 407 are just plain bad compared to the old stuff. the 407 is a bit more enjoyable out of the bunch. The 507 is sterile bright when called for and has a bloated low-end, as if the bass is overpowering over the mids. You won't hear Spritzer or any other long time posters here that have owned or heard most of them ever recommending the 507 over anything old.
  Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Here are my owned Stax amp list with the Lambdas:
> 
> 1. Stax SRM-T1 or Stax SRM-T1S
> 2. Stax SRM-323S
> ...


 
  Funny how you would rate the 006 so down and the T1 on the top. The 006 is almost identical to the original T1. The 323S and 323A are almost virtually the same from what I've gathered, so it doesn't make sense to group the 323A with the 313 which the 313 is similar to the Stax basic amps. 
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> How about the SR-4004732 Signature Pro LE Nova Classic MKIII with the SRM-2507S MKII Kevin Gilmore Blue Hawaii?


 
  Sounds like IpodPJ's version of all Lambda's combined lol.
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> After reading numerous on the models. I've only made myself more and more confused.
> 
> Some say the 303=404, then does that mean the 307=407?
> 
> ...


 
  303 and 404 Sig's are the same thing except different colour and better cables on the Sig's. 404LE is a different beast altogether compared to the 404 Sig. It is a 404 Sig but improved. 
   
  Some have reported that 407 have the same drivers as the 507 just different housing and pads, so if you swap the pads on the 407 for 507 you have the 507's sound. If you're going to skip out on the vintage Lambda's you may as well skip out on the whole Lambda range and look else where as they all sound similar in one way or another.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Funny how you would rate the 006 so down and the T1 on the top. The 006 is almost identical to the original T1. The 323S and 323A are almost virtually the same from what I've gathered, so it doesn't make sense to group the 323A with the 313 which the 313 is similar to the Stax basic amps.


 
   
  I prefer the higher amplification of 60 dB vs. 54 dB with the T1/T1S. There are 2 models of T1 the newer is much closer to 006t but i think the T1 is for me better. The 313 has also 2 different versions the newer (two pro outputs) is closer to 323A but with 60 dB amplification. The 323S is based on the layout of 323A but it has 60 dB amplification and has in my opion a little other sounding, a liitle more detail. The SRM-212 has also 60 dB vs. 54dB from the SRM-252A
   
  SRM-T1 old Version:
   

   
  SRM-T1 newer Version:
   

   
   
   
  SRM-T1S:
   

   
   
  SRM-006t:
   

   
  SRM- 313 old version:
   

   
  SRM-313 newer Version:


----------



## mechgamer123

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> How about the SR-4004732 Signature Pro LE Nova Classic MKIII with the SRM-2507S MKII Kevin Gilmore Blue Hawaii?


 
  Don't forget to roll the tubes and make sure you have the correct American transformer...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> SRM-006t:
> 
> 
> 
> SRM- 313 old version:


 
  Very different to the internals of the 006t and the 313 I had while back.
   
  Here's a little point of reference for anyone interested.
   
   
  Quote: Kevin Gilmore 





> The 727 is a local feedback version of the 717. The 727 has a current source, the 717 has a resistor. Otherwise virtually identical.
> The 727 runs the output stage at higher power.
> 
> The kgss and the 717 are similar amplifiers. (4 stage amplifiers)
> ...


 
   
   
  Quote: Spritzer 





> First SRA1-8 amps were all classic tube units of varying complexity made in the 60's.
> 
> SRA-3S was the first deviation from this with a transistor front end and AC coupled tube output stage.  Preamp and phono amp on plug in cards similar to the old ISA units used in PC's.
> 
> ...


----------



## duncan1

Defon- There are differences  between  the 717 and the 727 in that local feedback/stability caps [the small brown units on each channel board] The 727 does not have those. In my second last post on the   717/727 . I said I converted the two 150K feedback resistors -BACK to the original 717 position and cut away the LOCAL feedback from them thus allowing global feedback [input to output]. I did not need to re- instate any of those small brown stability/comp caps as the 727 is STABLE without them That is an added bonus as ALL feedback  caps affect the fidelity of a good amp[The secret is a very good design engineer who designs an amp with NO compensation caps]. That means he has spent time designing a "perfect" layout of components and he has used the best  active/non-active components you can buy. And your RIGHT! global feedback is better especially in the 727. The Japanese  designers were only "bowing down" to perceived attention that NO feedback was receiving in the UK and NO I don't go along with that theory and neither did JLH. Hope this helps.


----------



## DefQon

Those are not my findings but KG and spritzers.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Still though, the Lambda Signatures were one of the nicest sounding headphones I've heard, but only with selected music.  With chamber music, baroque pieces or female vocals, they are so smooth.  They don't fare well with large scale pieces like orchestral music or electronic music.  They get muddied in the bottom end and don't have much bass anyway and if memory serves, they can get a little sharp in the upper mids(?)


 
  They do indeed shine.. When they shine! Would like to add they aren't half bad with acoustic. Muddied you say? That must be in comparison to other 'stats or flagships, cuz then my HE-500 is a mud-pool. I can tell you they are indeed forward in the upper mids (slightly hot), and they can indeed be a bit edgy as well. Which amp did you use back then?
   
  On another note, can it really be true that NO ONE in this thread knows how the srm-007 compares to the srm-006/srm-t1? I'd say that is a pretty obvious and interesting comparison.
   
  EDIT: Ohh no! I have the newer t1 version


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> How about the SR-4004732 Signature Pro LE Nova Classic MKIII with the SRM-2507S MKII Kevin Gilmore Blue Hawaii?




Seriously.
YOU MUST HAVE LEATHER EAR DRUMS! :mad:
That system is crap.
Try the Super Custom Special Edition version of the Kevin Gilmore Deep Blue Hawaii Uber Energizer with Titanium output cap upgrade.
Trust me on this one.


----------



## DefQon

No no no and No.
   
  The KGSSHV is Kevin Gilmores Super Sexy High Voltage amplifier. Comes with a red lipstick kiss from KG himself on the case work with every purchase.


----------



## Chris J

defqon said:


> No no no and No.
> 
> The KGSSHV is Kevin Gilmores Super Sexy High Voltage amplifier. Comes with a red lipstick kiss from KG himself on the case work with every purchase.




Guys, you can argue with me all you want!
But if you haven't heard that system, then you don't have an opinion! :mad:

BTW, the caps must be cryogenically treated first.
If you can't afford those output caps you can also use genetically modified organic output caps, the modified DNA version.


----------



## wink

The new KGSSHVT2 with teflon valve bases, titanium valve covers, silvered mica + oil filled teflon+silver caps, global/local/sublocal feedback, ccshev stabilised power supply, rubidium doped xicon resistors, unobtanium plated gold contacts in pure medical grade teflon output sockets, triple delrin reinforced polyglass pc boards, tritrium doped grids in nos mullard JAN valves,bifilar wound semi-toroidal transformers with grain oriented sintered ceramic coated cobalt steel core with 0.00023 flux gap housed in a potted under vacuum process with double thickness mu-metal Faraday cage, wired in 99.99999% pure silver wire in electron depleted teflon coating.
   
  Other interesting innovations are subject to government restricted black-box procedures.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> On another note, can it really be true that NO ONE in this thread knows how the srm-007 compares to the srm-006/srm-t1? I'd say that is a pretty obvious and interesting comparison.


 
   
  I´m also very interested in this comparison! Is the SRM-007T/II a upgrade for SRM-T1/T1S with the lambdas?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





livewire said:


> gilency posted QUOTE: 'What the heck is a KGSSHV-DX ?'
> OMG! Figured he'd say sumpin like that.
> 
> For those who don't know, at another forum a group buy just finished that included
> ...


 
   
  The working title for those boards is HVk, the k standing for kompakt.  They are not only far smaller but also use new easy to source parts, a global/local feedback option and a servo which keeps the output DC offset in check.  Not really needed but we rarely shy away from overkill...  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I just finished the first of these amps yesterday so I'll post pics soon.  Despite being so cramped the new boards are easier to build and make chassis selection much easier.  
   
  While on the subject of the KGSSHV, what's better than a single HV?  Well two of them naturally.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   

   
  This is the end result of an idiot who wanted to sell HV's for a profit but couldn't even solder.  It all went up in flames (literally) so months later he begged us to buy his remaining parts.  We ended up buying it all for too much money just to make sure he wouldn't sell those firehazards to unsuspecting people.  I took the mostly populated boards that made up two amps and Kevin took a "finished" amp to rework and make it all safe to use.   
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I still really like the HD650 for rock music.
> 
> Also, what is this?


 
   
  That's actually a cryo treated 507 but since cryo does screw-all it's a bit suspect.  The SR-SC1 was nice but sounds exactly the same as the SR-404LE.  Not a coincidence in my book...


----------



## MDR30

About amps, I had a slight noise in the 006t volume control and opened it to check. Decided to read the bias as well, with the help of this tutorial:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/415385/tube-change-biasing-a-stax-006t-ii/15
   
  First I brushed and removed all dust with compressed air (a can).
   
  Wiped the tubes, inserted and removed them a couple of times before I put them back in place again, to make sure the contact between pins and holders was good.
   
  Bias was off about +4 to -3 V for all four pots, had a hard time adjusting those extremely sensitive pots but managed to get them all within 0,5 V (I fear if I breathe on them they would jump a couple of volts off again).
   
  Sprayed the volume/balance control with contact spray.
   
  I didn't expect any major changes, but was really surprised by how the sound opened up after these small adjustments. I can really recommend it for all who have amps with a few years on their back.
   
  The tubes were Yugoslavian Ei 6CG7, made in the now defunct facory that apparently used the old Telefunken machinery. They sound fine to my ears, but it would be interesting to compare with other quality tubes, so suggestions are welcome.


----------



## Chris J

wink said:


> The new KGSSHVT2 with teflon valve bases, titanium valve covers, silvered mica + oil filled teflon+silver caps, global/local/sublocal feedback, ccshev stabilised power supply, rubidium doped xicon resistors, unobtanium plated gold contacts in pure medical grade teflon output sockets, triple delrin reinforced polyglass pc boards, tritrium doped grids in nos mullard JAN valves,bifilar wound semi-toroidal transformers with grain oriented sintered ceramic coated cobalt steel core with 0.00023 flux gap housed in a potted under vacuum process with double thickness mu-metal Faraday cage, wired in 99.99999% pure silver wire in electron depleted teflon coating.
> 
> Other interesting innovations are subject to government restricted black-box procedures.




What digital cable do you recommend?
Do you recommend the Tungsten filament, gold plated SPDIF cryogenically treated KG Special Edition Coax?


----------



## wink

Quote:Chris J


> What digital cable do you recommend?
> Do you recommend the Tungsten filament, gold plated SPDIF cryogenically treated KG Special Edition Coax?


 
  Only if you can't get the critically short supplied neodynium enhanced silver cable coated in polymerised mica insulation coated in polymerised teflon and terminated with Neutrik's diffusion plasma welded connectors in a radon enriched helium atmosphere.
   
  The thorium enhanced palladium connectors ensure that oxidation is not encountered under any condition.
   
  Of course, the Unicorn manehair pleated cover ensures there are absolutely negligible microphonics emanating from the cable abrading against any external surfaces.


----------



## jaycalgary

I hope the new KGSSHVK uses many of the same parts as the KGSSHV? I would like to eventually switch to the new boards if the amp is as good or better. I am have all the electronic components for some time now. I think I will TRY to commission the RIGHT builder because I would really like one built properly.


----------



## ChiAki

Spritzer,
   
  How does the 009 sound with you KGSSHV?


----------



## gilency

livewire said:


> @ gilency -
> I believe he meant to say KGSS-DX.
> It is a rare (early?) HeadAmp variant of the KGSS. Taller and not as wide as Justin's other KGSS build.





Yeah, KGSSHV-DX acronym was made probable by the person who wrote about it. 
The KGSSHVk, aka KGSSHV mini boards are coming my way soon.
I have seen the older version of Justin KGSS on sale a couple of times through out the years.
Chi Aki, the 009 sounds lovely with said amplifier.


----------



## padam

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> I agree with this! The HD 600 (not the HD 650) is a lovely headphone with the right amp e.g. Lake People G100 and a new cable it playes wonderfull for the price and the next step is more expensive.
> 
> Whats your favorite Lambda Modell? I testet many of these and here is my conclusion:
> 
> ...


 
  My personal favourite is the normal bias one, I would probably buy the one that got on sale here if I didn't own one.
   
  Of course it is not perfect it depends on the type of music since the bass is not as good as the newer ones but the midrange is really important for me, and no other Lambda is as pure and nice as the original and the damped design makes great transients as well which seems to be missing from the other ones (except the Pro).


----------



## SBranson

davidsh said:


> They do indeed shine.. When they shine! Would like to add they aren't half bad with acoustic. Muddied you say? That must be in comparison to other 'stats or flagships, cuz then my HE-500 is a mud-pool. I can tell you they are indeed forward in the upper mids (slightly hot), and they can indeed be a bit edgy as well. Which amp did you use back then?
> 
> On another note, can it really be true that NO ONE in this thread knows how the srm-007 compares to the srm-006/srm-t1? I'd say that is a pretty obvious and interesting comparison.
> 
> EDIT: Ohh no! I have the newer t1 version




I presume my amp was the older T1 as the set, I think, was from the late '80s. 
Perhaps muddied isn't the right term. I went to hear them and I knew right away that they weren't going to be great all'rounders so I waited a day to think about it as I can only afford one set-up. But the next day I went back to get them because "when they were good they were very very good"...
I tried to replace them with 507s and though the 507s were better for more diverse music I found I enjoyed them less so I gave up on Stax for a while. Now though I am excited as I am getting the 007 mk1 / 007Tii combo soon.

If the 007Tii arrives in time I can give you my comparison to the 006t.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





wink said:


> Only if you can't get the critically short supplied neodynium enhanced silver cable coated in polymerised mica insulation coated in polymerised teflon and terminated with Neutrik's diffusion plasma welded connectors in a radon enriched helium atmosphere.
> 
> The thorium enhanced palladium connectors ensure that oxidation is not encountered under any condition.
> 
> Of course, the Unicorn manehair pleated cover ensures there are absolutely negligible microphonics emanating from the cable abrading against any external surfaces.


 
   
  Well the theory and technology are obviously sound.
  Nice to see that it is based on fully documented and peer approved scientific and engineering research papers.
  I'm relieved!
  Objectively, I suspect the subjectivists would be put off by all this technobabble and cold hard science.
  This hobby is so full of snake oil.


----------



## duncan1

S Branson- "anybody know" --007MK1 and SRM 006 and SRM 007 T11  --sounds like. While I don't know the new tube amp -sound wise a certain  UK "golden ear" by the name of Alvin Gold does According to him the new tube amp is more open detailed getting like a solid-state amp but retaining tube smoothness. In other words --more open with greater  depth-  That's his pronunciation on it in a UK hi-fi mag . Although Stax are still  "persona non grata"  with many UK mags as they have never been forgiven after Alvin and others praised them years ago -just at the same time as the quality control went through the floor. Yes I know that was a long time ago BUT  many "golden ears" felt let down and never forgave them.Forgiveness isn't a common trait over here.


----------



## autoteleology

I need some help in an area peripherally related to Stax.

 I use a Little Dot 1+ as a preamp for a Stax SRD-X Professional energizer, and after using it to preamp a mixboard for an electronic music party (at 100% volume for a few hours with mil-spec tubes), the right channel is distorting heavily and I can't get it to stop. It distorts in the right channel despite tube swapping, fuse changing, RCA cable changing, source changing, power changing, and output changing. What's going on? How do I fix this?


----------



## duncan1

The question of high voltages has been brought up and the dangers therein . Unusually since I first started repairing 1930 tube radios in the 50s I have lost count the number of times I should have died from electrocution . From the UKs -240V AC to 350/500Volts power supplies. From CRT TVs with 20000V  or more to the tube but the worst was the large pentode tubes in the TVs with 800V or more at a HIGH current to earth . Arm felt like it had been hit by a sledge- hammer sore for days -lost feeling in fingers for   about an hour .Its the AMPS that kill more than the voltage.Luckily it wasnt across my heart.This made me investigate why I survive. It seems that I have thick dry skin which  raises body resistance[electrical]  I compiled a note book on electrical deaths  and the ones more liable to die  had fine- moist skin. Those people were most to be found in red-heads and blonds--NATURAL- this seems to be a racial background thing. like Celts-Scandinavian types . In percentage terms they were 3 times more likely to die from electric shock.A bit morbid but just observation over many decades.And try not to let the current run up one arm and down the other[across your heart] as that shortens the odds.Keep one hand in your pocket when working on HV.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I know of at least 5 people that have successfully built kgsshv amplifiers as their first
DIY amplifiers ever. Blubliss built a T2 as his first DIY amplifier ever. Then he built 
Another one, a kgsshv, and a ssdynahi and then completely rebuilt 2 x esx.

After personally seeing what Sachu did to an amb power supply it comes as no surprise
To me that he does not want to try and build a kgsshv

Birgir is right. We do this stuff for our own use. And we give the board files away to
Everyone. The bom's are also easily available to all. The schematics are available
And the boards are self documenting


----------



## n_maher

Gentlemen, take the pissing match to PM's or anywhere but here for that matter or I'm going to break out the banstick.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





livewire said:


> @ gilency -
> I believe he meant to say KGSS-DX.
> It is a rare (early?) HeadAmp variant of the KGSS. Taller and not as wide as Justin's other KGSS build.


 
  Wait, so does this mean there will be a commercialized version of this design?
   
  I have been meaning to commission someone to build a KGSSHV or T2 for me but I've had no idea who to ask or where to look.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> I presume my amp was the older T1 as the set, I think, was from the late '80s.
> Perhaps muddied isn't the right term. I went to hear them and I knew right away that they weren't going to be great all'rounders so I waited a day to think about it as I can only afford one set-up. But the next day I went back to get them because "when they were good they were very very good"...
> I tried to replace them with 507s and though the 507s were better for more diverse music I found I enjoyed them less so I gave up on Stax for a while. Now though I am excited as I am getting the 007 mk1 / 007Tii combo soon.
> 
> If the 007Tii arrives in time I can give you my comparison to the 006t.


 
  I think everyone would be interested in a comparison. It seems that the general consensus is, that the srm-t1 and 006 aren't good with the sr-007's? The srm-007 does have double the power of the t1/006, which might help...
   
  I actaully think the sig's are a bit hard to characterize. I think the sound stage could be bigger, and the 'phones would also benefit from a more dynamic sound. That is 2 aparent shortcomings to me, the rest is mostly about coloration as I see it.


----------



## reiserFS

Oh man, there's a sale for a HE90/HEV90 again. 13k seems like a ripoff though.
   
  http://www.hifi-forum.de/index.php?action=browseT&back=1&sort=lpost&forum_id=265&thread=1967


----------



## gilency




----------



## autoteleology

What kind of amp behavior results in blown/burnt resistors? Can driving the amp on high volume for prolonged period of time do this?


----------



## gilency

Your ears would blow before the resistors.


----------



## autoteleology

Well, I found the root (or at least the symptom) of the problem I mentioned earlier with my Little Dot 1+; two resistors on the right channel have clearly combusted at some point in the past. If I replace these resistors, would the amp work again, or is it likely that they are just a symptom of a larger problem?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Sprither has swithers?


 
  Kind of hard to say, yeah
   
  Spritzer has switzers ... er I mean....


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Oh man, there's a sale for a HE90/HEV90 again. 13k seems like a ripoff though.
> 
> http://www.hifi-forum.de/index.php?action=browseT&back=1&sort=lpost&forum_id=265&thread=1967


 
   
  And over on Audiogon for $22k
   
  http://app.audiogon.com/listings/over-ear-sennheiser-orpheus-he90-hev-90-set-matching-pair-rare-and-original-2013-07-10-headphones-germany


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Well, I found the root (or at least the symptom) of the problem I mentioned earlier with my Little Dot 1+; two resistors on the right channel have clearly combusted at some point in the past. If I replace these resistors, would the amp work again, or is it likely that they are just a symptom of a larger problem?


 
  I've read that some parts in the Little Dot products might not be 'sized'  properly.  I suspect if you replace them it will work but if you replace with the same size (i.e., resistors rated the same WATTS power handling capacity)  they will just burn up again over time.  So maybe get the same value of resistance but higher WATTAGE resistors.  Probably not a good idea to use wirewound power resistors, they can be inductive and are sometimes not really 'right' in an audio application.  You can get non-inductive power resistors from Digi-Key have a look at  http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?pv5=8248&FV=fff40001%2Cfff80482&k=resistor+non-inductive&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 pick out the resistance you need and go for a 10 watt resistor, or maybe a 5 or 7 watt will do, just go larger than the original part.
   
  I have a Little Dot Mk III  that I like pretty well-  it's a fun headphone amp, and also a fun "tube buffer" or "tube line stage"  whatever you want to call it.  Not state-of-the-art but I like the tube-ness it imparts, or maybe I THINK it imparts tube-sound, but heck even a placebo effect is actually a real (brain/mental) effect- I'll take it.


----------



## Anavel0

I have a potentially newb question for the STAX crowd. And forgive me if this should be asked somewhere else, but I feel it can get answered here the quickest. Okay on to the question. 

I'm in the market for new headphones. My Sennheiser HD 580 broke after 11 years of use. And I'm really interested in STAX. I've done a lot of reading up on STAX from this thread and various other sources. So, I feel that I've got a pretty good understanding of them. But I don't know what would compare to my current setup. I've been using a Little Dot MK III amp and Sennheiser HD 580. 

So if anyone could tell me the comparable STAX setup, sound quality wise not price, it would be a huge help.


----------



## grawk

I think almost any current stax setup would be comparable to your current setup, with most being a big step up.  There are differences to the nature of the sound tho.


----------



## Anavel0

Yeah I know the sound will be different, which I'm definitely interested in. My issue is I don't have a lot of money to spend and I'll obviously need a new amp and headphones. So I'm trying to maximize my price to quality ratio.  I didn't want to take a step back just to get in to STAX.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Oh man, there's a sale for a HE90/HEV90 again. 13k seems like a ripoff though.
> 
> http://www.hifi-forum.de/index.php?action=browseT&back=1&sort=lpost&forum_id=265&thread=1967


 
  That's actually quite cheap these days compared to the general prices for the Orpheus set being sold for the past 2 years excluding separated HE90, HEV90 classifieds. 
   
  Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Well, I found the root (or at least the symptom) of the problem I mentioned earlier with my Little Dot 1+; two resistors on the right channel have clearly combusted at some point in the past. If I replace these resistors, would the amp work again, or is it likely that they are just a symptom of a larger problem?


 
  Just to add on what milos said, one reason for a resistor to blow out like that is that wattage of the resistor was too low for use in that part of the circuit. Resistors start from 1/4watt, 1/2watt, 1watt, 2, 5 up to 10watts etc etc). The wattage of the resistor signifies how much heat disspitation it can do, of course using a value too low will cause the resistor to heat up and eventually fail.
   
  Another reason to why the resistor will combust would be a resistor that is not rated at it's supposedly rated values and could not handle the current going through, there are fake resistors out there just as much as there are fake capacitors.
   
  Another reason for a resistor to fail is a short being created on the solder pads. So if you were going to replace a 1/4watt resistor that has gone kaputz in your circuit, replace with a 1/2 or 1watt with the same resistance. Avoid carbon composite resistors as they are rubbish. Use film resistors where and when you can, carbon film is ok and fine for most jobs.


----------



## bearFNF

So the failure was after running the amp 100% while running a mixing board, right?  Would running it at say 80 or 90% (or some lower number) have kept this from happening?  Or is there a design flaw in this amp?


----------



## miceblue

If the new Lambda series earspeakers all use the same diaphragm, what causes them to sound different if they're all driven with the same amp?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> If the new Lambda series earspeakers all use the same diaphragm, what causes them to sound different if they're all driven with the same amp?


 
  The same can be said as to why cheap chocolate taste so different to chocolate from Cadbury's and such, they are all chocolate, now obviously the difference is in the ingredients and the mixture ratio used between the sugar, butter and cocoa. 
   
  Same thing with the Lambda's, they all look pretty much the same and size, wherein lies the difference is the tuning and the micron thickness of the diaphragm and the tensioning used and various other variables that somebody such as Spritzer or Chinsettawong will know more about.


----------



## telecaster

bearfnf said:


> So the failure was after running the amp 100% while running a mixing board, right?  Would running it at say 80 or 90% (or some lower number) have kept this from happening?  Or is there a design flaw in this amp?



The reason of failure is heat build up. Unsolder the resistor to check em out. Or just replace every resistor with mills Non inductive ones.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What kind of amp behavior results in blown/burnt resistors? Can driving the amp on high volume for prolonged period of time do this?


 
   
   
  It appears to me to be a design / build issue.  A lot of these amps have burned resistors.  It seems to me that any of them that have been run for a long time will have cooked resistors.  
   
  Resistors should not really get warmer than maybe 85 degrees C in operation, I would think, and even 85 is high I think.  Get out your IR (non contact) thermometer or bolometer (or thermal imager! ) and see what these things read after ~6 hours being on.  I bet it's upwards of 100 C.
   
  Do a google search on    burned resistors little dot


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Now though I am excited as I am getting the 007 mk1 / 007Tii combo soon.


 
   
  I wasnt impressed by that combo. When the SRM-007t was my 'top' amp the SR-007 mk1s stayed in storage for close to 3 years. Also dont bother using it to power a pair of sigmas. Your opinion might differ.
   
  On the other hand it's beautiful for any of the lambdas


----------



## miceblue

How come no one talks about the Sigmas? I tried a pair and wasn't too impressed by it, but supposedly they have a natural-sounding soundstage due to the angled drivers or something along those lines.


----------



## Chris J

defqon said:


> Just to add on what milos said, one reason for a resistor to blow out like that is that wattage of the resistor was too low for use in that part of the circuit. Resistors start from 1/4watt, 1/2watt, 1watt, 2, 5 up to 10watts etc etc). The wattage of the resistor signifies how much heat disspitation it can do, of course using a value too low will cause the resistor to heat up and eventually fail.
> 
> Another reason to why the resistor will combust would be a resistor that is not rated at it's supposedly rated values and could not handle the current going through, there are fake resistors out there just as much as there are fake capacitors.
> 
> Another reason for a resistor to fail is a short being created on the solder pads. So if you were going to replace a 1/4watt resistor that has gone kaputz in your circuit, replace with a 1/2 or 1watt with the same resistance. Avoid carbon composite resistors as they are rubbish. Use film resistors where and when you can, carbon film is ok and fine for most jobs.




Seriously?
Those are all basically the same thing:
resistors power dissation was exceeded.


----------



## shipsupt

The resistors in question are RIGHT next to some transistors mounted on heat sinks.  I'm sure that playing at max volume for a long time it was getting pretty darned hot in that little chassis, especially in that location.
   
  T-C's pic from the other thread:

   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> It appears to me to be a design / build issue.  A lot of these amps have burned resistors.  It seems to me that any of them that have been run for a long time will have cooked resistors.
> 
> Resistors should not really get warmer than maybe 85 degrees C in operation, I would think, and even 85 is high I think.  Get out your IR (non contact) thermometer or bolometer (or thermal imager! ) and see what these things read after ~6 hours being on.  I bet it's upwards of 100 C.
> 
> Do a google search on    burned resistors little dot


----------



## spritzer

Yay, I have to type this up again... 
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I hope the new KGSSHVK uses many of the same parts as the KGSSHV? I would like to eventually switch to the new boards if the amp is as good or better. I am have all the electronic components for some time now. I think I will TRY to commission the RIGHT builder because I would really like one built properly.


 
   
  The transistors for the most part which is a result of me needing to supply most of the builders with C2705's.  The front end fet is the same and so are the output devices though there is an alternative now and I'm working on some others.  The 2SA1486 are getting harder to source so we swapped in a SMD part easily sourced from Mouser.  The small TO-92 transistors are all replaced with new ON Semi parts which are in current production.  These are not pin compatible with the older ones though. 
   
  Far more features too with a switch for global/local feedback and a servo for the output that keeps the offset in check.  The power supply is also easier to build and with cheaper parts and there is also a much simpler PSU that I will prototype soon.  More importantly, it's all much more compact. 
   
  Here is a picture of the first HVk amp which I completed yesterday. 
   

   
   
  Quote: 





chiaki said:


> Spritzer,
> 
> How does the 009 sound with you KGSSHV?


 
   
  They sound pretty much as good they come but the amp will not hide their true character.  That's precisely why I sold my 009's last year. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Kind of hard to say, yeah
> 
> Spritzer has switzers ... er I mean....


 
   
  Some switchers are better than others but yeah, most are crap.  Gotta know the enemy though... 
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> If the new Lambda series earspeakers all use the same diaphragm, what causes them to sound different if they're all driven with the same amp?


 
   
  Same materials maybe but how they are used is the real issue.  They are not all the same though, maybe the actual diaphragm but it's just a small part of the puzzle.


----------



## ChiAki

Thanks Spritzer,
  Have you tried the 009 with the Cavalli LL before? I've heard negative feedback from my friend using BHSE to drive 009 (in comparison to the Orpheus), so I'm pretty interested in the LL and Electra now. Any thoughts?


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





chiaki said:


> Thanks Spritzer,
> Have you tried the 009 with the Cavalli LL before? I've heard negative feedback from my friend using BHSE to drive 009 (in comparison to the Orpheus), so I'm pretty interested in the LL and Electra now. Any thoughts?


 
   
  I would like to know something similar on the SS front.  LLmk2 / KGSSHV are there any comparisons?


----------



## Solude

Oh this should be interesting


----------



## kevin gilmore

only one person here owns a LL and a KGSSHV.


----------



## NoPants

add me to the short list of people who built a kgsshv as their first amplifier. offboard version too- hand-drilling the heatsinks for the ccs/output devices was nightmarish to say the least.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I have been spoiled by all the full size NC machine tools at work, especially
  the fully reconditioned WW2 monarch lathe, and if I could get 3 phase power
  at home, I would find a way to acquire one. However I finally found something
  that runs on single phase power, just need some teenage muscle to get
  it into the basement.
http://www.tormach.com/product_pcnc_1100.html


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





chiaki said:


> Thanks Spritzer,
> Have you tried the 009 with the Cavalli LL before? I've heard negative feedback from my friend using BHSE to drive 009 (in comparison to the Orpheus), so I'm pretty interested in the LL and Electra now. Any thoughts?


 
   
   
  I can count on one hand how many people have heard both a KGSSHV and a LLmk2 in non-meet conditions. They will all have varying degrees of opinions.
   
  Figure out what your music preferences are, the sort of sound you like, then pick out which mpression lines up close to your own and take a leap of faith. This is assuming you don't have the luxury of making this determination of your own volition, which in a fair world would be fantastic ye ken. 
   
  There are plenty of impressions on the two amps individually as well on this forum and another  and possibly elsewhere. The global entity google will reveal more and all you have to do is ask the behemoth.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





nopants said:


> add me to the short list of people who built a kgsshv as their first amplifier. offboard version too- hand-drilling the heatsinks for the ccs/output devices was nightmarish to say the least.


 
  impressive. Good on you mate.  I've done hand drilling heatsinks, using a tapping kit etc and built a chassis from bare aluminum sheets and it is a nightmare indeed. Was also my first amp (speaker) and it looks like a bomb and a rats nest. Amazingly its still running some 8 years later (i really had my doubts). Albeit not HV. Just +/-40V rails.
   
   
  Curious, what is the output stage CCS current set at?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





ristar said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> miceblue said:
> ...


 
  Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> Why are you making this so complicated?  Your questions have been answered over and over...  Why do you insist on using a PSU rated for 100V when you know you've got US voltages?
> 
> Here... this will work fine, I've used it for a few years in the US.
> 
> ...


 
  Yup I just checked the local RadioShack store and they have some of those in stock after all.
   
  I'm wondering what exactly these ratings mean though. There's the above one for $30 which is rated at 1.5 A, and there's one that's $8 cheaper but only outputs 0.5 A. Is there any advantage to having one over the other if I'm planning to replace the stock 100 V,  ~0.330 A one?
   
  Supposedly my Kashimura 120 V -> 100 V transformer is on its way here. I would think the transformer is more versatile than the wall wart, no?


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> only one person here owns a LL and a KGSSHV.


 
  As far as I can glean from the manufacturer's website, the LL is no longer in production. Only the LLmk2 is,  which is quite a different beast sonically. Think I am in safe company to say that going by the impressions I have heard corroborating my own who have heard both versions in non-meet conditions.


----------



## K_19

Just wanted to report for y'all with the Japanese 2170 combo that my friend tried the following combination for AC Adapter and it works perfectly (well, for now anyway, but specs wise it shouldn't have any problems):
   
  http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=AC+Adapters%2fPlugs&product=2739185
  http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cable+Adapters&product=8000737
   
  The adapter allows you to switch polarity so that you can use it with the Japanese version of the 252S with the polarity reversed. My friend actually thinks that it now sounds better than when it had to go through the voltage converter... I personally think that may be placebo (never found the voltage converter to make much of a difference for my old SRM-717 before I adjusted the jumpers) but hey, it's one less thing to turn on and to worry about. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks to Shipsupt and many other users here for making the recommendation regarding the adapter and helping out with this issue.
   
  With the current Japanese prices for the 2170 and the ability to get a separate AC Adapter from here cheaply (Should be able to get the whole package between $500~650 range), I can say that the 2170 is definitely an amazing deal, perhaps even better of a value than the good old ESP950/E90 combo as a starter electrostat.  950 has it's own strengths so 2170 is not entirely better or anything but I do feel that it has a flatter response and a much better quality build headphone and amp included with it for a similar price.


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





sachu said:


> As far as I can glean from the manufacturer's website, the LL is no longer in production. *Only the LLmk2 is,  which is quite a different beast sonically.* Think I am in safe company to say that going by the impressions I have heard corroborating my own who have heard both versions in non-meet conditions.


 
"Liquid Lightning has undergone some design changes, mostly to the enclosure. LL MK II is now in the new CA stealth black finish. It has more inputs, front panel input switching, and better ventilation including vent slots on both sides. Internally, LL MK II is the same circuit as MK I, but with less parasitic capacitance on the amplifier board"
   
   
   
  This sounds like it should sound pretty much the same as the LL to me..


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





preproman said:


> "Liquid Lightning has undergone some design changes, mostly to the enclosure. LL MK II is now in the new CA stealth black finish. It has more inputs, front panel input switching, and better ventilation including vent slots on both sides. Internally, LL MK II is the same circuit as MK I, but with less parasitic capacitance on the amplifier board"
> 
> 
> 
> This sounds like it should sound pretty much the same as the LL to me..


 
   
  Possibly, rest of the folks and I who say it sounds different/better are probably imagining it then...for _*anything's *_possible indeed ain't it.
   
  Don't take any of our words for it, i mean it for real brotha. Make an effort and find out for yourself, that is if you care to.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I have been spoiled by all the full size NC machine tools at work, especially
> the fully reconditioned WW2 monarch lathe, and if I could get 3 phase power
> at home, I would find a way to acquire one. However I finally found something
> that runs on single phase power, just need some teenage muscle to get
> ...


 
  That one is highly recommended on the CNC forums.  I think shipsupt used one in the past quite a bit.  There are a number of other options as well, but they usually involve converting a manual mill into a CNC mill.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Just wanted to report for y'all with the Japanese 2170 combo that my friend tried the following combination for AC Adapter and it works perfectly (well, for now anyway, but specs wise it shouldn't have any problems):
> 
> http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=AC+Adapters%2fPlugs&product=2739185
> http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cable+Adapters&product=8000737
> ...


 
  Good to know. Thank you for the update!


----------



## autoteleology

What does the Stax peanut gallery think about the SRM-1/MK2? Does $450 sound like a reasonable offer for one? I plan to drive Lambdas with it but may think about moving up the chain at some later point.


----------



## DefQon

Does it have normal and pro bias outputs or is it both normal bias?


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What does the Stax peanut gallery think about the SRM-1/MK2? Does $450 sound like a reasonable offer for one? I plan to drive Lambdas with it but may think about moving up the chain at some later point.


 
   
  Definitely well regarded as a starter amp, as long as it is in good condition, or if you can do the old cap replacing yourself.  The price really depends on the model and the condition it's in (most on offer these days I'd guess are the Professional versions with one normal bias one pro bias outputs) but I personally was able to get one in great condition for $400 in the past and have seen others get it for lower.


----------



## sachu

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What does the Stax peanut gallery think about the SRM-1/MK2? Does $450 sound like a reasonable offer for one? I plan to drive Lambdas with it but may think about moving up the chain at some later point.


 
  Had one. Liked it. Good price..good amp. Rev B or C and you should be set


----------



## NoPants

Quote: 





sachu said:


> impressive. Good on you mate.  I've done hand drilling heatsinks, using a tapping kit etc and built a chassis from bare aluminum sheets and it is a nightmare indeed. Was also my first amp (speaker) and it looks like a bomb and a rats nest. Amazingly its still running some 8 years later (i really had my doubts). Albeit not HV. Just +/-40V rails.
> 
> 
> Curious, what is the output stage CCS current set at?


 
  I kept it at "stock" values using the IXYS parts, I believe that pegs it at 5.5mA for the output stage? Someone can correct me. I remember numbers like 8 and 13 being thrown around but that sounds pretty silly
   
  And yes I went through two taps (only?), I wasn't aware that one could lubricate them as you tapped the hole.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





nopants said:


> I kept it at "stock" values using the IXYS parts, I believe that pegs it at 5.5mA for the output stage? Someone can correct me. I remember numbers like 8 and 13 being thrown around but that sounds pretty *silly*
> 
> And yes I went through two taps (only?), I wasn't aware that one could lubricate them as you tapped the hole.


 
   
  Isnt that team overkill's middle name?
   
  Im planning on upping mine to at least 10mAs...might go higher...Spritzer always says to go till you see smoke


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> Just wanted to report for y'all with the Japanese 2170 combo that my friend tried the following combination for AC Adapter and it works perfectly (well, for now anyway, but specs wise it shouldn't have any problems):
> 
> http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=AC+Adapters%2fPlugs&product=2739185
> http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cable+Adapters&product=8000737


 
  Thanks for another solid option.


----------



## shipsupt

These Tormach's are outstanding.  I was lucky enough that a friend purchased one and I had full access to it when I was in CA.  
   
  Don't underestimate the size of it when you go to move it, it's a beast! We used serious gear to get it into and set it up in his shop.  Several teenagers at a minimum!!
   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I have been spoiled by all the full size NC machine tools at work, especially
> the fully reconditioned WW2 monarch lathe, and if I could get 3 phase power
> at home, I would find a way to acquire one. However I finally found something
> that runs on single phase power, just need some teenage muscle to get
> ...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> How come no one talks about the Sigmas? I tried a pair and wasn't too impressed by it, but supposedly they have a natural-sounding soundstage due to the angled drivers or something along those lines.


 
   
  What amp were you using?
   
  I'm not impressed when I listen to them using my SRM-252. On the other hand I am impressed when I use my KGSS.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Here is a picture of the first HVk amp which I completed yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!


 
   
  Cool. How big's the case (just wondering how kompakt it is compared to the regular hv)?
   
  Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I cant be bothered copying and pasting it here as it's too many pages back so yeh...
   
  just use your imagination - it'll enhance your listening experience!


----------



## Currawong

I've removed a considerable amount of off-topic discussion of nonsense products. This is the Stax thread, not the random inane chatter about nonsense products thread. Please make sure you all remember that and tread one of Head-Fi's most important resources with respect.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I did want to mention misconceptions about the differences between the various single tube per channel stax amps
  (t1,t1s,006...) and the two tube per channel (007) versions.
   
  They all run on the same voltages and have the same size and value plate resistors. So they all put
  out the same power. But the two tube per channel versions do a better and more linear job of amplification.
  And therefore sound more relaxed and less strained.


----------



## davidsh

Ohh, very nice to know!


----------



## SBranson

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I've removed a considerable amount of off-topic discussion of nonsense products. This is the Stax thread, not the random inane chatter about nonsense products thread. Please make sure you all remember that and tread one of Head-Fi's most important resources with respect.


 
   
  Sorry for my part in that.  It was intended in fun as I've had others question my sanity over my tweaks.


----------



## 3X0

tus-chan said:


> What does the Stax peanut gallery think about the SRM-1/MK2? Does $450 sound like a reasonable offer for one? I plan to drive Lambdas with it but may think about moving up the chain at some later point.



Isn't the SRM-1/MK2 less expensive than the SRM-T1?

I got my SRM-T1 for less than that, albeit modded.


Returning to my channel imbalance issue, I notice that continuous playback of the right channel for 72 hours seems to have made it weaker volume-wise, at least temporarily. I shorted the pins and stashed the headphones for a bit to discharge them as I remember the right channel being distinctly louder when I first plugged them in. I plan on testing them again today or tomorrow.

Assuming the right channel starts out OK but gets quieter as it charges up, and assuming Drew replugged them twice to rule out a bad retermination, what would this behavior suggest?


----------



## autoteleology

If Stax made all different kinds of specialized speakers, turntable parts, and other components, how come none of them are ever mentioned on this thread?

 Also, this:


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Cool. How big's the case (just wondering how kompakt it is compared to the regular hv)?


 
   
  This box is 19" wide just like my other HV's but only 350mm deep compared to 400mm before.  The change is bigger than that though as the old boards were a very tight fit into that 400mm chassis with the amp boards pretty much taking up the entire width.  When I built the first 2U HV amp most didn't even think it was possible to cram all this circuitry in there.  Now there is room to spare which naturally helps the cooling.  I'm stress testing the amp now so even with minimal airflow it stays quite cool.  The chassis directly above the amp boards reaches ca. 30°C above ambient which is quite good.  For reference the old Headamp KGSS used a 19"*400mm chassis as well. 
   
  The main reason for making the boards smaller was cost though as smaller PCB's will always be cheaper so it made sense to do that while we did the redesign. 
   
  Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I did want to mention misconceptions about the differences between the various single tube per channel stax amps
> (t1,t1s,006...) and the two tube per channel (007) versions.
> 
> They all run on the same voltages and have the same size and value plate resistors. So they all put
> ...


 
   
  Good point and the 007t's only really run into trouble when you push the volume.


----------



## davidsh

Sooooo, what does a KGSSHVk built cost if you wanna go the cheapest route possible?


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Yup I just checked the local RadioShack store and they have some of those in stock after all.
> 
> I'm wondering what exactly these ratings mean though. There's the above one for $30 which is rated at 1.5 A, and there's one that's $8 cheaper but only outputs 0.5 A. Is there any advantage to having one over the other if I'm planning to replace the stock 100 V,  ~0.330 A one?
> 
> Supposedly my Kashimura 120 V -> 100 V transformer is on its way here. I would think the transformer is more versatile than the wall wart, no?


 
   
  Sorry missed your post over all the KGSSHV love (well-deserved!). Side note: If you care to do the research, it is possible to build it as your first amp (I'm another that did). Spritzer and Kevin are very helpful and there's already a ton of info [costs; bills of materials; things to look out for] already written - I'll say it takes a while to search but it's all there.
   
  The 252 amp only draws ~330mA... there's no advantage going over that. Any advantage has to come from how stable the power supply is. Yes, the transformers will work regardless, you just have to bear with the heat from the transformers. It may not be much from 120-100v, but it's quite a bit of heat from 240-120v.


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Yup I just checked the local RadioShack store and they have some of those in stock after all.
> 
> I'm wondering what exactly these ratings mean though. There's the above one for $30 which is rated at 1.5 A, and there's one that's $8 cheaper but only outputs 0.5 A. Is there any advantage to having one over the other if I'm planning to replace the stock 100 V,  ~0.330 A one?
> 
> Supposedly my Kashimura 120 V -> 100 V transformer is on its way here. I would think the transformer is more versatile than the wall wart, no?



 
 Depending on how poor the regulation is from these various UNREGULATED supplies: The problem with using a 1.5 A power supply is it will probably output more voltage than the 0.5 A supply. I would stick with the 0.5 A supply.


----------



## miceblue

Hm mmk. My transformer arrived yesterday so I'll try it out later today maybe.

I'm not sure if the Radio Shack ones are linear or not, but it did say regulated.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> How come no one talks about the Sigmas? I tried a pair and wasn't too impressed by it, but supposedly they have a natural-sounding soundstage due to the angled drivers or something along those lines.


 
  The Stax Sigma series seem to have about the same efficiency as SR-007 Mk1s (despite what is mentioned in Stax manuals as their efficiency being comparable to Lambdas - they're not), and need a hefty amp to power them well. SRM 1Mk 2 Professional, 717, 727, KGSS, KGSSHV, T2 DIY, Big amp through an SRD-7 Pro all work rather nicely. The Sigma is a bit deficient at either end of the sound spectrum IMHO. The Sigma Pro or Sigma/404 fixed that.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Isn't the SRM-1/MK2 less expensive than the SRM-T1?
> 
> I got my SRM-T1 for less than that, albeit modded.


 
  Indeed, $450 is a bit pushing it for an SRM1 MK2 (typical silver faceplate unit with both Normal and Pro bias jacks), so for $450 you'd expect it to have it recapped/modded or stock mint condition with original box or so at that marked value. Average price for a used unit go for around $350-400 but I've seen some go as low as $250.
   
  The only SRM1 MK2's that go for a bit more value $400+ is the SRM1 - MK2 Professional and P.P units (the latter going little bit more). But again value depends on what's been done to the circuitry and other tampering, condition etc.
   
  SRM-T1/T1S have a more wild price they are usually sold for and more the demand, the higher the price it gets sold. Prices fluctuate between $250 - $550. Anything over $550 or so is pushing it and a likely chance the seller is just flipping sales just because it is a rare amp and don't pop up as much. Don't let them take advantage of you.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I heard the Lambda Signature and Sigma Pro on the SRD-7 MK2, as well as the SRM-Xh. I didn't care for the Sigmas so much....they kinda reminded me of the LCD-2, which I don't like.


----------



## n3rdling

Quote: 





john buchanan said:


> The Stax Sigma series seem to have about the same efficiency as SR-007 Mk1s (despite what is mentioned in Stax manuals as their efficiency being comparable to Lambdas - they're not), and need a hefty amp to power them well. SRM 1Mk 2 Professional, 717, 727, KGSS, KGSSHV, T2 DIY, Big amp through an SRD-7 Pro all work rather nicely. The Sigma is a bit deficient at either end of the sound spectrum IMHO. The Sigma Pro or Sigma/404 fixed that.


 
  Sigmas are just as efficient as the Lambdas that use the same driver design: SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature.  You can measure this with your cell phone using a dB level app in a pinch.  They do however require a bit more gain to get the same volume at the ear position since there's a greater distance between the ear and driver in the Sigmas than the Lambdas.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Indeed, $450 is a bit pushing it for an SRM1 MK2 (typical silver faceplate unit with both Normal and Pro bias jacks), so for $450 you'd expect it to have it recapped/modded or stock mint condition with original box or so at that marked value. Average price for a used unit go for around $350-400 but I've seen some go as low as $250.
> 
> The only SRM1 MK2's that go for a bit more value $400+ is the SRM1 - MK2 Professional and P.P units (the latter going little bit more). But again value depends on what's been done to the circuitry and other tampering, condition etc.
> 
> SRM-T1/T1S have a more wild price they are usually sold for and more the demand, the higher the price it gets sold. Prices fluctuate between $250 - $550. Anything over $550 or so is pushing it and a likely chance the seller is just flipping sales just because it is a rare amp and don't pop up as much. Don't let them take advantage of you.


 
  The only time I've seen some of the low prices you're advising has been on auctions that nobody caught or amps with damage.  Real world value of the SRM-1 mk2 has been about $400-450 and the T1s go for between $450-650.  Pretty much been that way for half a decade at least.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> The only time I've seen some of the low prices you're advising has been on auctions that nobody caught or amps with damage.  Real world value of the SRM-1 mk2 has been about $400-450 and the T1s go for between $450-650.  Pretty much been that way for half a decade at least.


 
   
  Same experience over the last year here in Europe! At this time costs a used SRM1 mk2 Pro between $400 - 500. The SRM-T1/T1 are more expensive, the SRM-T1 costs $600 - 700 and the SRM-T1S around $800.


----------



## tyre

Regarding the recent SRM-252 replacement wall-wart discussion, here's a relevant link:

 http://tangentsoft.net/audio/wall-ps.html


----------



## M-13

Hey guys I was browsing Price Japan, looking at the SR-009 price and drooling as usual, and then saw the 007MK2. The abandoned ugly child nobody likes or talks about. Remind me why this Omega sucks again?
   
  From my previous reading I remember people hated them because they were rolled off in the extremes and also the coloration? Bass boost and dark upper-mids? Are there insane people who actually prefer this coloration over the SR-009? Or is this just not possible? What else sucks about the MK2? Other than the fact that it's not the Mk1 or the original Omega. I was thinking this coloration might work for those of us who actually listen to some pop?


----------



## n3rdling

mk2 has a port near the cable entry thus eliminating a proper seal.  Results in a bump in the midbass and a roll off from there.  This doesn't happen when you have a full seal, so you can always spritzer mod your mk2 and plug the port.  Advantages of the mk2 are better earpads and a better cable strain relief.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> If Stax made all different kinds of specialized speakers, turntable parts, and other components, how come none of them are ever mentioned on this thread?


 
   
  They do show up from time-to-time in auctions in Japan. I think Stax went ultra-hi-fi crazy before the market was ready for it. If they'd made all that gear now or even a few years ago they wouldn't have gone bust I reckon. One of their ex-engineers now has a company, Fidelix, that makes DSD DACs and very compact Class-AB amps.  Since they are mates, I've been trying to get him to get together with Take-T to build a headphone system.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> mk2 has a port near the cable entry thus eliminating a proper seal.  Results in a bump in the midbass and a roll off from there.  This doesn't happen when you have a full seal, so you can always spritzer mod your mk2 and plug the port.  Advantages of the mk2 are better earpads and a better cable strain relief.


 
  Yeah I remember reading something about this. Something about trying to reduce the Stax fart. I'll try to look this mod up. Thanks n3rding!
   
  This is the only Omega that's available within a reasonable price range for me personally. I really can't spend 009 kind of money no matter how good it is unless my fortunes change. I guess I could always try to find a used MK1... but I don't like buying things that have been out of production for awhile.
   
  *It's funny how I was going to get the LCD-2 R2 + 2170 and now I'm looking at the 007MK2. This place...


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> *It's funny how I was going to get the LCD-2 R2 + 2170 and now I'm looking at the 007MK2. This place...


 
  You're doing the right thing


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tyre said:


> Regarding the recent SRM-252 replacement wall-wart discussion, here's a relevant link:
> 
> http://tangentsoft.net/audio/wall-ps.html


 
  Leaping lizards that clears up a lot of things! Thank you for posting that!


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> You're doing the right thing


 
  Can I give you my wife's number so you can talk to her for me?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Sigmas are just as efficient as the Lambdas that use the same driver design: SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature.  You can measure this with your cell phone using a dB level app in a pinch.  They do however require a bit more gain to get the same volume at the ear position since there's a greater distance between the ear and driver in the Sigmas than the Lambdas.
> The only time I've seen some of the low prices you're advising has been on auctions that nobody caught or amps with damage.  Real world value of the SRM-1 mk2 has been about $400-450 and the T1s go for between $450-650.  Pretty much been that way for half a decade at least.


 
  Indeed on the Sigma's requiring more gain on volume to match a normal Lambda due to the driver distance to the ears.
   
  With the prices, I don't know what the average price of the SR1 MK2's over the past half decade is, but the prices you mentioned is not the average standard prices for Stax gear that I've been monitoring eBay attentively a little after I joined here, almost the past 3 years.
   
  Just to put things into perspective, a little more than just 2 auctions Lambda Pro + SRM1 MK2 (Pro and Normal) sold for around $350-500 on the Aussie ebay domain back in 2011, at that time I would've snagged up on the deal, but I didn't have enough funds so I landed myself the SRD-7 SB MK2 + LP in original boxes good condition for little less than that amount.
   
  Koss ESP950 packages come and go at around $400-500 here. I've seen two Sigma buy it now auctions back then here that went for $400 and 500 respectively. I purchased my Sigma Pro's with original box for $500 buy it now. A little over 1.5 months ago, a Lambda Signature + SRM1 MK2 (pro and normal) was sold for final auction price of $600 posted with original box and original pads. A SRM-T1 went for $331 USD from a seller in Vietnam little over 2 months ago, not a scam since the seller posted pictures with his username that I requested and he had over 500 feedback.
   
  I've also seen crazy buy it now's on the UK ebay domain, SRM1 MK2 PP models sold for less than $400 but no outside international shipping. The US ebay domain is a hit and miss with good Stax deals, usually the amp auction prices go really up high when there is attention in the market for them (or a particular model) but sometimes people just snag up on cheap buy it now auctions fairly fast. I've rarely seen good deals on the German ebay, rarely, everything is usually sold very very high (not surprising since they have customs and import tax etc). But I was very lucky to have my friend obtain an SR-Omega when he was there for $3400-3500 AUD after Euro conversion when the AUD was worth more than the US at the start of this year. 
   
  Don't even get me started on the prices that Stax gear go for on Yahoo Japan auctions, SRM-T1's go for around 35000-40000 yen, I've even seen crazy package auctions of old Lambda Pro and Lambda Nova Classic + T1S deals for 55000-60000 yen. Heck if you check now there is a T1S or W at a buy it now for 37800 yen, common prices for T1 amp's, even after a proxy service such as Kuboten, Rinkya, buyee etc, you'd still get the amp's within $500 shipped etc.
   
  Then there is another issue of demand and supply, unobtaniums are only going to get rarer and harder to find at appropriate prices, I'm not sure if you're observant with the Stax gear prices sold here on Headfi F/S section, but before I registered going back to my lurking days from 2004 before the forum system change and before I even gave a crap about Stax stuff and when nobody really gave a schit about Stax gear, Lambda Pro's selling for as low as $150 in working order, nothing broken, SRM1 MK2 (both normal bias) going for around $200-300 shipped, this was around the time where everyone here was raving on about the HD600/650's, before the AKG K701 came out. There are still some in the archive subforum section.
   
   
  Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Same experience over the last year here in Europe! At this time costs a used SRM1 mk2 Pro between $400 - 500. The SRM-T1/T1 are more expensive, the SRM-T1 costs $600 - 700 and the SRM-T1S around $800.


 
  The Euro ebay domain is more expensive than anywhere else. Sigma's being sold at $3000, T1 + Lambda Pro being at $1600. If you want good deals, look elsewhere. Just my observations.


----------



## n3rdling

Ya you're talking about subset local communities and deals, not actual value.  I've seen a HD800 listed here for $700, a full Orpheus system in Europe for $7000, a SR-Omega in Japan for $1300, etc.  That doesn't mean that's what those are worth.  There's almost always an explanation for why some stuff gets sold for well below market value, and if the reason isn't apparent it's usually because the seller doesn't know what they have. 
   
  The US audiophile market largely controls the prices of used Stax gear; this is why you'll see things sell for a bit cheaper on Yahoo Japan.  Normal going rate for a T1 can be $400 on Yahoo Japan, but that's before commission fees and (especially) shipping fees.  Final cost to door ends up being right in the range I stated earlier.  And that's without taking into account the additional time until it's in your possession, the nightmare occurrence if it arrives not as described, and the ability to change voltage on the units (which is not trivial on a lot of models).


----------



## DefQon

What determines there value? There original price or the average price of the same stuff being sold? From what I can see, some of the vintage earspeaker values are not really increasing unless you flip sales say you purchased something for $150 then sell it for $300? Heck as an example if you're just looking at ebay alone since 2011, prices on the amp's have increased then dropped and right now it's stagnated at the range I've mentioned $350-450, these are from seller's who know about the heritage of Stax and what they are selling (often described from the listings in the ads). Those prices you have listed for the said examples are just one off extreme lucky sales, they don't pop up for those prices if ever again, but the prices I have observed have set an average range that I have mentioned, not arguing my case, just from observations. This determines there value.
   
  But I do agree that a nightmare can occur if the item arrives not as described from Japanese auctions, I've learnt this from a few of my purchases the the Japanese sellers on yahoo japan often skimp out on specific detail including photos, they just list it as "junk".


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I have been spoiled by all the full size NC machine tools at work, especially
> the fully reconditioned WW2 monarch lathe, and if I could get 3 phase power
> at home, I would find a way to acquire one. However I finally found something
> that runs on single phase power, just need some teenage muscle to get
> ...


 
  Tormach, hahaha!  I was a software consultant during the very earliest stages of Tormach.  Tormach was started by an old friend of mine, Ed Korn, with the very earliest germ of the idea back about 1981. I told him, at that time, personal computers and their programming environment were not quite up to the task of controlling a home CNC. The IBM PC had just been introduced, and had no hard drive....I had an Osborne and was fiddling with LISP for CP/M.   In the 1990's, after I had moved to another city, PC technology was finally up to the task and by then Ed had secured a Chinese manufacturer that would build things to his standards- the rest, as they say, is history.  Tormach makes a good small CNC, from all accounts.  Heavy built.
   
  Ed's a great guy, he helped me restore a Norton 750 Commando back in the day.


----------



## shipsupt

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Ya you're talking about subset local communities and deals, not actual value.  I've seen a HD800 listed here for $700, a full Orpheus system in Europe for $7000, a SR-Omega in Japan for $1300, etc.  That doesn't mean that's what those are worth.  There's almost always an explanation for why some stuff gets sold for well below market value, and if the reason isn't apparent it's usually because the seller doesn't know what they have.
> 
> The US audiophile market largely controls the prices of used Stax gear; this is why you'll see things sell for a bit cheaper on Yahoo Japan.  Normal going rate for a T1 can be $400 on Yahoo Japan, but that's before commission fees and (especially) shipping fees.  Final cost to door ends up being right in the range I stated earlier.  And that's without taking into account the additional time until it's in your possession, the nightmare occurrence if it arrives not as described, and the ability to change voltage on the units (which is not trivial on a lot of models).


 
   
  ^^THIS^^ - Well said. 
   
  It kills me when folks are passing things up over $50 or so because they are comparing apples and oranges prices from around the world.
   
  After spending some time here in the UK I now fully understand the impact of VAT, customs, etc... on the new and used market.  It can't be ignored.  Audio stuff goes for 20% or more above US prices here, full stop.
   
  Also, to quote my favorite guys on Pawn Stars, we need to keep in mind what people are "asking" on-line and what they are getting.  Two different things.
   
  Of course, sometimes we get lucky... $300 T1's, $600 HD-800's!  Two of my better scores.
   
   
**** More importantly, nice Norton!!*


----------



## Solude

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> mk2 has a port near the cable entry thus eliminating a proper seal.


 
   
  Been a while but aren't the mk2.5, which is what PriceJapan sells, not fixable?


----------



## shipsupt

I think that the bad reputation is generated by very detailed comparisons at a very high level.  the MK2 is a damned good headphone on it's own.
  Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Hey guys I was browsing Price Japan, looking at the SR-009 price and drooling as usual, and then saw the 007MK2. The abandoned ugly child nobody likes or talks about. Remind me why this Omega sucks again?
> 
> From my previous reading I remember people hated them because they were rolled off in the extremes and also the coloration? Bass boost and dark upper-mids? Are there insane people who actually prefer this coloration over the SR-009? Or is this just not possible? What else sucks about the MK2? Other than the fact that it's not the Mk1 or the original Omega. I was thinking this coloration might work for those of us who actually listen to some pop?


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

Hey one-thousand-six-hundred-and-ten page thread!
   
  What y'all think of the SR-507, compared to the 007 and 009, if that trio was hypothetically priced the same?


----------



## johangrb

As an owner of the 007MKII - I think they are worth the price. I heard them at  the recent LA meet w the Eddie Current Electra amp - sublime. Yes - probably slightly more colored than the 009s, but VERY enjoyable imho. You can always look for used and re-sell if you hate it - they tend to keep their value very well.
  Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Yeah I remember reading something about this. Something about trying to reduce the Stax fart. I'll try to look this mod up. Thanks n3rding!
> 
> This is the only Omega that's available within a reasonable price range for me personally. I really can't spend 009 kind of money no matter how good it is unless my fortunes change. I guess I could always try to find a used MK1... but I don't like buying things that have been out of production for awhile.
> 
> *It's funny how I was going to get the LCD-2 R2 + 2170 and now I'm looking at the 007MK2. This place...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> It kills me when folks are passing things up over $50 or so because they are comparing apples and oranges prices from around the world.
> 
> Of course, sometimes we get lucky... $300 T1's, $600 HD-800's!  Two of my better scores.


 
  If I had the opportunity to post all the ebay item id's here of said sold SRM1 MK2 and T1 amps from every ebay domain around the world that I had in my excel spreadsheets since 2011, I don't think it is comparing apples and oranges of prices around the world (unless you include stuff from Japan directly), you will see yourself a nice up and down supply and demand trend if represented on a graph where prices only go up by a small amount (sometimes big amount) when attention is at it's most or influence from people and threads such as this when people google Stax gear etc. These are not lucky deals, the prices fluctuate so small between the auctions that what I can see it has set a new pre-determined value for said items but applies to other stuff as well. 
   
  Yeah you do get the one off extreme once in a life time lucky deals such as $300 T1's, $600 Hd-800's, $1300 SR-Omega's etc. 
   
  Now if I want to compare Apples and Oranges, that would be comparing Yahoo Japan auctions vs US/UK/AU/GE ebay prices, that is an example of apples and oranges comparison, but the Japanese themselves are not stupid themselves and are quite hardcore with the Stax as much as we are, as they most likely have there own Stax dedicated threads/forums as well.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





theta alpha 1 said:


> What y'all think of the SR-507, compared to the 007 and 009, if that trio was hypothetically priced the same?


 
  If they were all priced at the 507's price, heck I'd take all 3. But imho, the differences between all 3 are not subtle. 007 sounds completely different to the 2. The 507 at least to my ears with the highs and upper mids sound a bit like the 009, bright at times bit cold actually for the 507. The 007 mk1's are laid compared to the bright 009 and 507's. 507 would've been the perfect Lambda for me personally if it weren't for that weird brightness it exhibits, almost as bad as a b22 + HD800 pairing, just damn cold and sterile sounding. I don't know why people ever raved about the b22 being the perfect amp for the HD800. :S


----------



## shipsupt

Fair dinkum. 
   
  Just curious, how did you take into account early listing closures, best offers, etc...? Or did you just use listed prices?
   
   
  Quote:


defqon said:


> If I had the opportunity to post all the ebay item id's here of said sold SRM1 MK2 and T1 amps from every ebay domain around the world that I had in my excel spreadsheets since 2011, I don't think it is comparing apples and oranges of prices around the world (unless you include stuff from Japan directly), you will see yourself a nice up and down supply and demand trend if represented on a graph where prices only go up by a small amount (sometimes big amount) when attention is at it's most or influence from people and threads such as this when people google Stax gear etc. These are not lucky deals, the prices fluctuate so small between the auctions that what I can see it has set a new pre-determined value for said items but applies to other stuff as well.
> 
> Yeah you do get the one off extreme once in a life time lucky deals such as $300 T1's, $600 Hd-800's, $1300 SR-Omega's etc.
> 
> Now if I want to compare Apples and Oranges, that would be comparing Yahoo Japan auctions vs US/UK/AU/GE ebay prices, that is an example of apples and oranges comparison, but the Japanese themselves are not stupid themselves and are quite hardcore with the Stax as much as we are, as they most likely have there own Stax dedicated threads/forums as well.


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

Aight.
   
  Next question what is the best DIY valve amplifier pairing for the 507 under $2000?  I'd love to take on a personal 'stat amp DIY challenge.


----------



## NoPants

probably the upcoming megatron, I think the total cost of the t2 goes well beyond 2k once casework is factored in


----------



## shipsupt

You could do a KGSShv for under $2k if you don't go crazy with the chassis.  Sounds great with the 507.
   
   
  Quote:


theta alpha 1 said:


> Aight.
> 
> Next question what is the best DIY valve amplifier pairing for the 507 under $2000?  I'd love to take on a personal 'stat amp DIY challenge.


----------



## DefQon

Gah headfi mobile sucks, deleted what I was gonna post. I'm on eBay everyday as I sell and buy stuff and lurk for goodies. All the stuff I have listed include buy it now prices, final sold prices on auctions and sometimes best offers since anything Stax related of interest to me I bid on it or add it to my watch list. I wrote an app for personal use using basic C that worked on 1.6 donut - 2.2 froyo on android that would send me an email of a Stax stuff that fits within the keywords amp or headphone or earspeaker on eBay with a refresh update of 15 min interval rates. Since 2.3 gingerbread update was so different to 2.2 coding, my app is broken. I'm on 4.2 Sony xperia Z




theta alpha 1 said:


> Aight.
> 
> Next question what is the best DIY valve amplifier pairing for the 507 under $2000?  I'd love to take on a personal 'stat amp DIY challenge.




Could fit an kgss in there if u are not going after fancy stuff


----------



## rawrster

wow $600 for the HD800 is a steal.
   
   
  Quote: 





johangrb said:


> As an owner of the 007MKII - I think they are worth the price. I heard them at  the recent LA meet w the Eddie Current Electra amp - sublime. Yes - probably slightly more colored than the 009s, but VERY enjoyable imho. You can always look for used and re-sell if you hate it - they tend to keep their value very well.


 
   
  I have to agree. I own the MK1 but I've also heard the current version and they are both good in their own way. As a matter of fact with the BHSE I like the current SR007 better than the SR009 but at this point I really think it's preference wise.


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

I looked up the Megatron, it seems to have .15% THD.  That's fine and all, but I'm a low THD person ...
   
   
  So on second thought, any advice on the best _non-valve_ DIY pairing for SR-507 under $2000?


----------



## autoteleology

THD is hardly capable as a sole consideration as to whether an amplifier is good or bad, unless the THD is egregiously high past any kind of reasonable figure. It doesn't even take into account where that harmonic distortion is occurring in the audio spectrum - low-order and high-order distortion manifest themselves much differently from each other.


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

Yes, but in my blind testing of op-amps I prefer the low THD variety, I seem to prefer low THD sound, that's all.


----------



## spritzer

That's THD at a level where the headphones will have self destructed so it's not possible to compare it to a low voltage circuit.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Sooooo, what does a KGSSHVk built cost if you wanna go the cheapest route possible?


 
   
  I'm the worst person to ask about this since I never go cheap with anything.  I suppose you could build a HVk for about 1k$ but mine usually end up being quite a bit more than that...


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

Low voltage circuit... I see...
   
  I'm confused which DIY project to do, maybe I should practice with the easiest one first then, which is the easiest one so I can get started? =)


----------



## davidsh

Would like to pull an O2 prank with its low THD, but admin will come after me -,-


----------



## duncan1

I think they mean a solid state design instead of the high voltages involved in tubes--although there are  low voltage tubes but not common. And the solid state design  using only low voltage as they don't want you to be "removed from the earth" when building and testing it.The even harmonics usually "par for  the course"  in tubes is a whole lot more  acceptable to many compared to the odd harmonics in a badly designed SS amp.Spritzers answer to Davidsh- is why I respect his judgement.


----------



## autoteleology

This is a sold listing, but just look at the condition these units are in. What a shame.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SRD-7-Ear-Speaker-Adaptor-SR-X-Mark-3-Headphones-/121145442396?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c34d4c05c&nma=true&si=kVIoUkEzzjcrrX1GqSUo6otGf0k%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


----------



## loligagger

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> You could do a KGSShv for under $2k if you don't go crazy with the chassis. Sounds great with the 507.


 
   
  I can attest to the validity of this statement.


----------



## rgs9200m

I'm confused about KGSS amps for Stax phones.
  Q1. Are they DIY or semi-DIY like the Beta-22 amps were?
  Q2. Or were they production units from defunct providers?
  Q3. Can they be serviced by anyone if they need support?
  Q4. Are non-used ones available?
  Q5. And also, can anyone comment on how much heat they generate?
  Thanks in advance for any info.


----------



## miceblue

^ good questions. I'm curious too. I'm not much of a tube person and I like DIY projects. Being barely under $2000 is still a high price for me though.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> I'm confused about KGSS amps for Stax phones.
> Q1. Are they DIY or semi-DIY like the Beta-22 amps were?
> Q2. Or were they production units from defunct providers?
> Q3. Can they be serviced by anyone if they need support?
> ...


 
   
  Q1/2: As it stands currently, yes. DIY only. However, Headamp was formerly a commercial builder for them. I believe they stopped production around 2 years ago or so. Most KGSS you see on FS forums are probably Headamp units.
  Q3: May be able to contact Justin (if it is a Headamp build) or other DIY'ers here for help.
  Q4: You'll probably have to search for a custom builder for a new one if you can't do it yourself.


----------



## M-13

Was there a reason Justin stopped building them?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Was there a reason Justin stopped building them?


 

 BHSE takes up all his time now.


----------



## Solude

Nods, the BHSE out sold the KGSS by a large margin.


----------



## NoPants

the onboard supposedly generates a fair amount of heat because of reduced heatsinking. 60 c iirc. the offboard doesn't seem to get warm at all with the stock-valued components.


----------



## reiserFS

Anyone tried this combo before? If so, how does it roll? 
   
  http://www.audio-markt.de/_markt/item.php?id=0000047954&


----------



## loligagger

I can say my offboard KGSSHV does generate a decent amount of heat, though nothing bad at all. With the output current turned up I only get about 40C on the heatsinks. I'd imagine the BHSE would put out noticeably more heat.


----------



## NoPants

mine only gets warm to the touch so I thought I'd make a note of it. 



loligagger said:


> I can say my offboard KGSSHV does generate a decent amount of heat, though nothing bad at all. With the output current turned up I only get about 40C on the heatsinks. I'd imagine the BHSE would put out noticeably more heat.


----------



## John Buchanan

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Sigmas are just as efficient as the Lambdas that use the same driver design: SR-Lambda and SR-Lambda Signature.  You can measure this with your cell phone using a dB level app in a pinch.  They do however require a bit more gain to get the same volume at the ear position since there's a greater distance between the ear and driver in the Sigmas than the Lambdas.
> The only time I've seen some of the low prices you're advising has been on auctions that nobody caught or amps with damage.  Real world value of the SRM-1 mk2 has been about $400-450 and the T1s go for between $450-650.  Pretty much been that way for half a decade at least.


 
  I meant perceived volume at the ear for the same volume setting.


----------



## EveTan

Umm. What does it mean when a channel imbalance starts switching from good to bad? Like it's stuggling.


----------



## miceblue

It means you've been playing music too loud and you're killing the drivers.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> It means you've been playing music too loud and you're killing the drivers.


 
  Lol, the imbalance was there when i was playing music.
   
  Now it's flickering between good and bad.
   
  I'd like to think it got slightly better...


----------



## miceblue

Well iono what's up. The Kill-a-Watt has a third ground plug thingamabob, but the voltage transformer doesn't have that socket. Would that affect the readings though?
   
  100 V wall wart in "wall plug"

   
  100 V wall wart in transformer

   
  Transformer + box

   
   
  There's no way a 110-130 V to 110 V transformer would read ~130 V, right?
   
  http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sacom/item/1372935/
   

 Maker Kashimura The input voltage 110V - 130V Input plug shape



 Rating capacity 35W Country / area available Voltage 110V - 130V areas such as U.S.A., Hawaii, Canada, Taiwan, Mexico
 *As well as the countries mentioned above, it is available in a country of the voltage same as the input voltage. A function and safety device Automatic return type thermal protector, electricity lamp Instruction manual language Japanese Country of origin China
 
 Article number TI101 The output voltage 100V Output plug shape



 Transformation method Trans expression Main body size 52*72*42mm Packing size 95*180*45mm Main body weight (NW) 200 g Packing weight (GW) 220 g Overseas shipment packing weight (TW) 0.72 kg
Packing weight + packing materials (500 g) = foreign countries shipment packing weight Accessories -- -


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Umm. What does it mean when a channel imbalance starts switching from good to bad? Like it's stuggling.


 
   
  If this was a dynamic headphone, I may be inclined to think something may be wrong with the cables, like a loose connection or something like that.
   
  But since these are stats where imbalance is somewhat common and normal thing to happen, that's probably not it...


----------



## tdogzthmn

How does the SRM-600LE stack up against the SRM-727II paired with the SR-507?


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Is it normal for Stax to show up with channel imbalance? I got my Sr-307 in from Price Japan, plugged them into the kgsshv and they are definitely like 10 db louder(very scientifically measured with the db meter on the iPhone) in the right channel than the left. Kind of a bummer to open a brand new toy and have it be off like that


----------



## autoteleology

It's certainly typical enough so that many Stax amps come with a built-in channel balance adjuster. I know my SRD-X has one, and I know the SRM-1/MK2 I just bought has one as well.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


>





> plugged them into the kgsshv and they are definitely like 10 db louder(very scientifically measured with the db meter on the iPhone) in the *right channel than the left*.


 
  HA! The infamous left channel imbalance is back.


----------



## Theta Alpha 1

Quote: 





tdogzthmn said:


> How does the SRM-600LE stack up against the SRM-727II paired with the SR-507?


 
   
  SR-507 = hard and cold | Valve amplifier = warm and soft


----------



## tdogzthmn

^ I would not say my 507 sound remotely bright or cold so I guess the 600LE is driving them well enough.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> Is it normal for Stax to show up with channel imbalance? I got my Sr-307 in from Price Japan, plugged them into the kgsshv and they are definitely like 10 db louder(very scientifically measured with the db meter on the iPhone) in the right channel than the left. Kind of a bummer to open a brand new toy and have it be off like that


 
  What do you plan on doing to fix it?


----------



## n3rdling

Return it for a new one...most people say PJ is good about returns right?


----------



## davidsh

T1 has balance controls as well


----------



## 3X0

souprknowva said:


> Is it normal for Stax to show up with channel imbalance? I got my Sr-307 in from Price Japan, plugged them into the kgsshv and they are definitely like 10 db louder(very scientifically measured with the db meter on the iPhone) in the right channel than the left. Kind of a bummer to open a brand new toy and have it be off like that




10dB :eek: That's like double loudness and basically my HE60 situation!

Anyone know approximately how many dB of shifting the Stax balance controls are good for? I may need up to 6dBx2 (i. e. make the left 6dB quieter and right 6dB louder)... might just solder the pot back into my SRM-T1.


----------



## Byter

Hi dyna10x and Spritzers, and others. This is my first post, mainly as I haven't owned a decent pair of headphones for nearly 20 years (showing my age)! I have just acquired an SRM1/MK2 which sounds just like dyna10x's - no voltage plug, plastic cover over socket. Mine also is wired for 100V and I also need to convert to 240V. I'd be most grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> 10dB
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I'd say... More than 80dB depending on situation with the T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (haven't tested, guess my ears won't be happy with that)


----------



## autoteleology

I just realized I am likely to be the only person in the world who has ever been hit by a car while wearing Stax.


----------



## davidsh

Anything happened to the headphones?!?


----------



## davidsh

Ohh, are you okay?


----------



## autoteleology

Oh, no, this was actually a while ago back when I was still in school. I'll explain it in more detail when I don't have ten minutes before I have to leave for work. Funniest thing is, I'm kind of glad it happened because it worked out very well for me.


----------



## DefQon

Does anyone know where to get some original knobs for the old SRM1 amps?


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Well iono what's up. The Kill-a-Watt has a third ground plug thingamabob, but the voltage transformer doesn't have that socket. Would that affect the readings though?
> 
> 100 V wall wart in "wall plug"
> 
> ...



 
 I'm at work right now so I can't give you a long answer, but anyway, that don't look right! Output of the STEP DOWN TRANSFORMER should be approx. 100 Volts!


----------



## shipsupt

Wow, I really am impressed at how complicated you guys are still making this!  Anyway...
   
  Why don't you get rid of that kill-a-watt thing and just check the voltage from the transformer with your DMM.
   
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Well iono what's up. The Kill-a-Watt has a third ground plug thingamabob, but the voltage transformer doesn't have that socket. Would that affect the readings though?
> 
> 100 V wall wart in "wall plug"
> 
> ...


----------



## rgs9200m

Thanks for the comments about the heat of KGSSs. By inboard/outboard does this refer to a separate power supply box?


----------



## shipsupt

This refers to heat sinks.  There is a version with the heat sinks on the PCB's and one with them externally mounted.
  Quote: 





rgs9200m said:


> Thanks for the comments about the heat of KGSSs. By inboard/outboard does this refer to a separate power supply box?


----------



## rgs9200m

OK, thanks again.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





m-13 said:


> Was there a reason Justin stopped building them?


 
   
  Lack of demand was the major issue but also lack of parts.  Input and output devices were becoming scarce and the chassis simply looked out of place next to the other amps. 
   
  Quote: 





byter said:


> Hi dyna10x and Spritzers, and others. This is my first post, mainly as I haven't owned a decent pair of headphones for nearly 20 years (showing my age)! I have just acquired an SRM1/MK2 which sounds just like dyna10x's - no voltage plug, plastic cover over socket. Mine also is wired for 100V and I also need to convert to 240V. I'd be most grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.


 
   
  With no plug at the back you need to wire it, here is the setup. 
   
  100v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the  ACplug+Brown+Green

 117v:
 Gray+White
 White wire from the AC plug+Blue+Purple

 240v:
 Blue+White wire from the AC plug
 Purple+Gray


----------



## autoteleology

> Lack of demand was the major issue but also lack of parts.  Input and output devices were becoming scarce and the chassis simply looked out of place next to the other amps.


 
   
  Why do these parts become scarce?


----------



## grawk

because the primary use for them was tube tvs


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





evetan said:


> What do you plan on doing to fix it?


 
   
  I left it playing for quite a few hours, and I think it got a teeny bit better.
   
  I'm also trying to figure out a buzzing issue I am having in the left channel of my KGSSHV, this is the first time I have ever plugged headphones into it, you guys don't think the buzzing and the imbalance in the left channel could be related do you?


----------



## n3rdling

isn't the kill a watt just reading the input voltage off the wall? use the dmm to read the output voltage of the step down transformer as suggested earlier.


----------



## miceblue

^ in that photo it is.
   
  With the step down transformer plugged in, and with the Kill-a-Watt placed between that and the wall wart, it still measures at around 130 V, but yup I'll measure the transformer with the digital multi-meter when I get back home.


----------



## n3rdling

Smallest "Stax" tube amp?
   
  http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u52613764


----------



## reiserFS

I'm going to bid it on it just for the heck of it, looks p. neat.
  Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Smallest "Stax" tube amp?
> 
> http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u52613764


----------



## DefQon

Srd-6 modded with dual triodes eh?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Srd-6 modded with dual triodes eh?


 

 I believe he just used the enclosure as I don't see any transformers. Looks neat!


----------



## miceblue

Yup. Okay the step-down transformer works after all. Iono what's up with the Kill-a-Watt thing; it might be the third grounding plug that the transformer doesn't have.
   
  Phew.
   
  So I can finally say the Kashimura TI-101 step-down transformer works with North American voltages.


----------



## n3rdling

Note that it's only rated for 35W, so that rules out many Stax amps.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Yup. Okay the step-down transformer works after all. Iono what's up with the Kill-a-Watt thing; it might be the third grounding plug that the transformer doesn't have.
> 
> Phew.
> 
> So I can finally say the Kashimura TI-101 step-down transformer works with North American voltages.


 
  There are some instances on amazon reviews of that kill-a-watt thing going bad and reading weird...


----------



## EveTan

Umm... the fact that my imbalanced channel is buzzing... isn't a good thing right?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> Note that it's only rated for 35W, so that rules out many Stax amps.


 
  Hm, you're right about that. I didn't know other STAX amps draw so much power.
   
  A couple of questions:
      1. Does anyone have measurements for the SRS-2170?
   
  Yes the treble is better-extended than my K 701, but I think I hear a peak at around 9-10 kHz, similar to the HE-500 but in a less annoying way. Or maybe the peak is at a higher frequency since it does kind of remind me of the non-offensive, yet fatiguing treble of the SRH940, which has a bunch of higher-frequency peaks. Sure, this kind of treble makes rock music much more engaging compared to the rather dull-sounding treble of the K 701 (the SRH940 was the headphone king for a fun rock experience), but it does get fatiguing after some time.
   
   
      2. What's the gain on the SRM-252S? I have the digital volume on maximum, the potentiometer at 9:00, and this thing is insanely loud for me. The potentiometer and it's dead-zone + channel imbalance zone is worse than that of the Objective 2.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> 2. What's the gain on the SRM-252S? I have the digital volume on maximum, *the potentiometer at 9:00, and this thing is insanely loud for me.*


 
   
  About the same for me.
   
  The Stax USA website, says Gain: 58dB (x800)
  https://www.staxusa.com/stax-srm-252s.html


----------



## n3rdling

There are no 3rd party measurements of the 207s that I know of.  I have a measuring rig now, so really I could measure a crapload of Stax headphones...


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> There are no 3rd party measurements of the 207s that I know of.  I have a measuring rig now, so really I could measure a crapload of Stax headphones...


 
   
  So a group of Stax headphones is known as a 'crapload'? Is it because of the Stax fart?


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> There are no 3rd party measurements of the 207s that I know of.  I have a measuring rig now, so really I could measure a crapload of Stax headphones...


 
  Looking forward to your measurements, but getting the data stable is a pita


----------



## antonyfirst

So, I have modified my SRM-727A after KG's advice. I had formerly modded the amp with the "spritzer" mod (by changing local feedback to global), but Kevin helped me making the modification much more radical.
Basically, we fixed his 727 schematic together (I provided pictures eheheh) in order to have a complete idea of how to overhaul the output stage and make it better.
He gave me instructions to replace 10 transistors on the board a few resistors with eight pieces of 2sc4686a (or 2sc4686) transistors (the same as the KGSSHV) and some shorts. I will post the instructions here after Kevin's permission.

The result is a 727A that not only has its feedback 'restored', but also the same identical output stage of the KGSSHV. My 727A (which I rebaptised "KGSS-A") is basically a KGSS with current source modification (which was the "better" part of the feedback modded 727 over the 717), and better (faster, more modern) transistors than the older KGSS.
Or, the other way around, this modified 727 is a KGSSHV minus the higher voltage, since there was no room for a better PSU.

The sound has improved in transparency and overall extension. The bass has more control and the treble is smoother. I am using a SR-007 Mk1 and a SR-Lambda (the latter, after modifying another output after KG's advice).

Also, really interesting, the newer transistors get much less hot. My 727A is barely hot now, even after much time of usage, while the 717 I used to have, the older version 727 and even the SRM-Mk2 Pro I used to have here ago used to run noticeably hotter. I guess it depends on the newer transistors being capable of handling much higher voltage than what I am squeezing from the 727A psu, hence having very good efficiency.

I can take some dirty pictures, and will be waiting for Kevin's blessing to post the mods.


----------



## arturo71

That sounds very interesting. Looking forward for pictures and details. Arturo


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> I left it playing for quite a few hours, and I think it got a teeny bit better.
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out a buzzing issue I am having in the left channel of my KGSSHV, this is the first time I have ever plugged headphones into it, you guys don't think the buzzing and the imbalance in the left channel could be related do you?


 
   
  When I had some noise when I turned the pot to the minimum (grounding wire of the pot was loose) it was always both channels. So I doubt it's the amp... but I can think of a way to test out your assumption.
   
  Swap your left right inputs. See if the buzzing still stays on the left. If it does it's your headphone and nothing to do with the amp.
   
  Edit: Just thought about it, it may be better to rewire the outputs (L+- with R+-) to ensure it's definitely not the amp. Just swapping inputs, the right channel source will still go to your left on your headphone.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Yup. Okay the step-down transformer works after all. Iono what's up with the Kill-a-Watt thing; it might be the third grounding plug that the transformer doesn't have.
> 
> Phew.
> 
> So I can finally say the Kashimura TI-101 step-down transformer works with North American voltages.


 
   
  Very wierd, I did think that it was rather odd that your line voltage (the voltage on the wall receptacle) was 126-127 Vac.
  Usually it's closer to 115-120 Vac.
  Even if you were getting 126-127 olts from the receptacle, you would (or should) read approx. 105 Vac out of the step down transfromer.
  It should not matter that the step down transfromer doesn't have a ground pin, the Kill-A-Watt should be reading voltage from line to neutral:  the other two pins.
   
  What do you measure with the DMM? Line voltage, transformer output voltage, wall wart DC voltage?
   
  Quote:


miceblue said:


> Hm, you're right about that. I didn't know other STAX amps draw so much power.
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 1. Does anyone have measurements for the SRS-2170?
> ...


 
   
  More weirdness.
  I've used my SRS-2170 with a CD player and two different DACs, and typically I have the volume at 11 o'clock on the SRM-252S and I don't think I listen very loud.
  I do think the Stax is less fatiguing and less mechanical sounding than my Q701.
  The Stax also sounds flatter in the mids and treble than my DT880.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





chris j said:


> More weirdness.
> I've used my SRS-2170 with a CD player and two different DACs, and typically I have the volume at 11 o'clock on the SRM-252S and I don't think I listen very loud.
> I do think the Stax is less fatiguing and less mechanical sounding than my Q701.
> The Stax also sounds flatter in the mids and treble than my DT880.


 
   
  With my Stello DA100 DAC I usually only had the 252S volume on 10 o'clock and really never get past that except on some classical tracks where I cranked it up to 11 (and with digital volume on max of course)... I'd think anything past that would be ear splitting.  I do think that the default gain may be a little too high, but I personally didn't have any problems regarding channel imbalance due to being so low down on the pot (since it wasn't around the 9 o'clock area but more like 10 where it usually becomes free of that problem).
   
  I did not hear any 9-10khz treble peaks (isn't that more of the usual Beyer headphone peaks? definitely didn't hear it) on the 207 but I did notice a midrange peak somewhere lower down causing some vocals to sound "shouty" at times. No sibilance at all though. I would actually prefer a bit more treble because the very top sounded somewhat rolled off.
   
  I'm thinking these differences among users may be more down to the source used perhaps.  I probably need more listening on my friend's rig though as it was only for 4-5 hours total.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





k_19 said:


> With my Stello DA100 DAC I usually only had the 252S volume on 10 o'clock and really never get past that except on some classical tracks where I cranked it up to 11 (and with digital volume on max of course)... I'd think anything past that would be ear splitting.  I do think that the default gain may be a little too high, but I personally didn't have any problems regarding channel imbalance due to being so low down on the pot (since it wasn't around the 9 o'clock area but more like 10 where it usually becomes free of that problem).
> 
> I did not hear any 9-10khz treble peaks (isn't that more of the usual Beyer headphone peaks? definitely didn't hear it) on the 207 but I did notice a midrange peak somewhere lower down causing some vocals to sound "shouty" at times. No sibilance at all though. I would actually prefer a bit more treble because the very top sounded somewhat rolled off.
> 
> I'm thinking these differences among users may be more down to the source used perhaps.  I probably need more listening on my friend's rig though as it was only for 4-5 hours total.


 
  Maybe it's the source thing.
  Who knows?
  Keep in mind that I often use el cheapo DACs with the SRS-2170.
  I have an iBasso D12, $285 and a FiiO E17, $150.
  The D12 is pretty smooth and clear, the FiiO sounds a bit rough next to it, a bit of treble grunge.
   
  I keep thinking I should get something better..........DAC wise. Like maybe a fully loaded Schiit Bifrost or an Audiolab.


----------



## autoteleology

Has anyone ever had a Stax headphone custom-painted by a third party?


----------



## miceblue

tus-chan said:


> Has anyone ever had a Stax headphone custom-painted by a third party?



Maybe we, as a mafia, can go to Colorware and demand a STAX repainting. 

@ *Chris J*
Yeah I thought it was weird to see ~125-130 V coming from the wall according to the Kill-a-Watt. When I measured the voltage coming from the step-down transformer to the 100 V wall wart with the digital multimeter, it read a more reasonable ~108 V. I'll measure more stuff when I get back home today and maybe try out other wall outlets. Right now the step-down transformer is plugged in to a surge-protecting power strip.

As for my source, I'm using my MacBook Pro Retina Display and the ODAC.

I tried double amping with my Sansa Clip Zip for the heck of it and the volume was pretty loud for me with the potentiometer at around 10:00.


----------



## autoteleology

You can just get any headphone painted by Reference Sounds (aka Paradox Audio).


----------



## SoupRKnowva

So Im starting to think that buying the 307s from Price Japan might not have been worth it...even though they were essentially dead on arrival, I have to pay ship them back, wait for Stax warranty repair on them, and then pay to get them shipped back to me again. Might be worth it for the cost savings of the 009s, but for the 307s I think I would rather have paid the extra and been able to just exchange them for a new pair


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> You can just get any headphone painted by Reference Sounds (aka Paradox Audio).


 
  I didn't know that. 
   
  I'm not interested in a paint job, but that binaural album might be worth looking into, maybe. $20 + $7 USD shipping for a CD seems expensive though.


----------



## tdogzthmn

How much is it to colorware a stax headphone?


----------



## 13713

Quote: 





tdogzthmn said:


> How much is it to colorware a stax headphone?


 
  I don't think Colorware will do something that is not on their list of products.


----------



## DefQon

Colorware indeed doesn't colorware things not on there list. I emailed them little while ago if they can colorware my hd800 for $2000 they said no. Colorwaring Stax headphones is just a plain stupid idea.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Colorware indeed doesn't colorware things not on there list. I emailed them little while ago if they can colorware my hd800 for $2000 they said no. Colorwaring Stax headphones is just a plain stupid idea.


 
  Um, it is back, and HD800 is on the list.
  From their site:


----------



## miceblue

Lovely. The fight against breast cancer headphone!


----------



## 13713

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Lovely. The fight against breast cancer headphone!


 
  I would get pink HD-800's just because they are awesome. Seriously who would want to steal those let alone meet you in a dark ally if you are sporting those.


----------



## tdogzthmn

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Colorware indeed doesn't colorware things not on there list. I emailed them little while ago if they can colorware my hd800 for $2000 they said no. Colorwaring Stax headphones is just a plain stupid idea.


 
   
  I think producing headphones which are olive drab and brown is plain stupid, luckily my SR-507 is black!  I was just curious about the pricing for the Colorware process.


----------



## n3rdling

Who's gonna be the first person with SR-009BLs?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





tdogzthmn said:


> I think producing headphones which are olive drab and brown is plain stupid, luckily my SR-507 is black!  I was just curious about the pricing for the Colorware process.


 
  Guess it is part of the Stax style. Make them as ugly as possible, yet functional to express that we are talking hi-end headphones purely meant as a tool for reproducing music. Serious bussiness.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Um, it is back, and HD800 is on the list.
> From their site:


 
   
  No fking way! They took away that option for year and half and now it's back, right after I sell off my HD800's?
   
  Ok gonna sell off my Stax stuff and get myself a colorware HD800.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No fking way! They took away that option for year and half and now it's back, right after I sell off my HD800's?
> 
> Ok gonna sell off my Stax stuff and get myself a colorware HD800.


 
  I kinda hope you are joking... But if not.. what color(s)?


----------



## miceblue

Obviously olive drab and brown to match the colours of the STAX being sold.


----------



## DefQon

I was thinking piano black and silver rings. Or maybe something black and white. Or dark red and black. Or black and baby blue like the one's Jude has.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Umm... the fact that my imbalanced channel is buzzing... isn't a good thing right?


 
  All I know is that I would pay good money for a channel imbalance troubleshooting guide or compendium, because sifting through this monster of a thread just isn't cutting it.


----------



## NoPants

I'll send one of my pairs in to get just the drivers painted silver, brighten up the sound a little
   
  Maybe a black frame to create a color gradient that widens the soundstage, that's definitely lacking too


----------



## DefQon

No pants,
   
  You're hilarious.
   
  Thanks


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> All I know is that I would pay good money for a channel imbalance troubleshooting guide or compendium, because sifting through this monster of a thread just isn't cutting it.


 
  I don't think I'll be lucky as some... 
   
  continuous music playing isn't doing much. Probably going to stay away from the Staxes in the future. I'm just not a lucky person.


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Colorware indeed doesn't colorware things not on there list. I emailed them little while ago if they can colorware my hd800 for $2000 they said no. Colorwaring Stax headphones is just a plain stupid idea.


 
  Ask them now..


----------



## Happy Camper

preproman said:


> Ask them now..


Didn't they do yours pre......


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





evetan said:


> I don't think I'll be lucky as some...
> 
> continuous music playing isn't doing much. Probably going to stay away from the Staxes in the future. I'm just not a lucky person.


 

 part of me is thinking the same thing, what with my first brand new pair having all sorts of issues, and the first amp I bought having issues, maybe I'm just not lucky enough for Staxes...but...I want that magic that the Sr-009s provide, so I hope i dont have problems for too long 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  The Staxen are a fickle beast


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





happy camper said:


> Didn't they do yours pre......


 
  I bought mine from them.  He is wanting a re paint.  I think they're doing re paints now.  Not sure though.


----------



## DefQon

Yeah they are offering the repainting service again. Thing is, don't have the 800's no more. If I buy another HD800, this will be the 4th one I'm on lol. Maybe in the future.


----------



## miceblue

Mmk I went around the house and took some voltage measurements into and out of the step-down transformer. The values were more or less the same:
   
  Input: ~123-124 V
  Output: ~108-109 V
  Wall wart DC voltage: 17.5-17.8 V


----------



## DefQon

Why are you so concerned about measuring AC wall points and voltage from step down transformers. I think you spend more time measuring voltage than listening to the headphones itself.


----------



## miceblue

Given that people's STAX are getting killed left and right, quite literally, I'm trying to be cautious about how I use my pair.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Given that people's STAX are getting killed left and right, quite literally, I'm trying to be cautious about how I use my pair.


 
  I don't think I've learned my lesson. My hands are itching for a Lambda Signature.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Given that people's STAX are getting killed left and right, quite literally, I'm trying to be cautious about how I use my pair.


 
  Nobody's Stax is getting killed left and right due to voltage issues and have nothing to do with it unless you're stupid enough to run a 120v rated amp on 240vac mains. It's already been stated here N^1000000 times if you want to be careful with your Stax stuff, don't buy cheap step down-trafo's or cheap wallwarts, you pay for quality to power quality amplifiers.
   
  Channel imbalance with electrostatic headphones is nothing new as it is quite common if it happens out of the blue.


----------



## milosz

I've got  Beyer ET-1000 with issues.  Needs therapy. I thought maybe it was the N1000, or the cable having an intermittent open from years of flexing- so I recabled them with a Stax cable and a 5-pin Stax low bias style plug... I tried them on the 'normal' bias jack of my SRM-T1 and, well, the SAME problems were still there.  The level is not equal from the drivers, but it shifts around - for a while it will be OK, but then one driver will just get quieter and quieter... down to about 50% of the level of the other driver; then it may come back up, or maybe not.  Or, maybe a few days later it will be the OTHER driver that is low...
   
  I suspect driver issues. Anybody got any suggestions?  I'd like to revive these things.


----------



## spritzer

The coating on those diaphragms is very current hungry when it should use almost none.  Just off the top of my head I think the N1000 has 1uf caps so not really compatible with the Stax setup.


----------



## Chris J

miceblue said:


> Given that people's STAX are getting killed left and right, quite literally, I'm trying to be cautious about how I use my pair.




You're doing the right thing.
It's wise to be cautious.
Nobody cares more about your amp than you do.


----------



## sam_zagami

Does anyone here on head-fi know where to get reasonably priced/used diaphragms for Stax Lambdas? I have a pair of 404s with a dodgy channel. I think the 303s use the same diaphragm, it's the one with the red rim. It'd be nice to fix them, or maybe I should just part them out and buy another pair...


----------



## yawg

Hi,  


k_19 said:


> It would be a great compliment to your Planars IMO. I think both planar and estat technology have their own charm that can't quite be found in the other, and I'd certainly have both around if you can. That's why I reacquired the LCD-2's even though I have 009's on my way, I knew I'd miss my meaty Planar bass and upfront midrange every now and then.



 
 I had the same experience with my speakers. I enjoyed my Martin Logan IIz but they wouldn't deliver the powerful sound of a live performance. They would get the "kazoo effect" when I drove them to "realistic" live SPLs --bzz-bzz.. Now I enjoy my big Magnepan MG 3.6R after having them retro-fitted with excellent XOs, much more sensitivity and dynamics. I get all the resolution of my electrostats but with the impact of the "real thing", Now I use my Stax NLS only when my neighbors complain -they got my telephone number ... I miss the impact of the lower bass when I listen to my Staxes. So I turn on my active sub, it works from 18 Hz to 40 Hz, where the Maggies kick in. Cheers, Jörg.


----------



## K_19

Tried the 2170 combo again today for a few hours since my friend is out for the long weekend, and these definitely do sound excellent except for this weird peak I'm noticing somewhere around 1~3khz or so... which makes vocals on certain songs sound uncomfortably shouty to my ears.  May just be something my ears are extremely sensitive to... may have to try another source and see if this is just a character of my DAC (DA100) and it's just being transparent or if it is just the way this system happens to sound by default.  They sound absolutely fabulous in other regions except for slight rolloffs at the extremes, and with great soundstage to boot.


----------



## tdogzthmn

Quote: 





yawg said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I had the same experience with my speakers. I enjoyed my Martin Logan IIz but they wouldn't deliver the powerful sound of a live performance. They would get the "kazoo effect" when I drove them to "realistic" live SPLs --bzz-bzz.. Now I enjoy my big Magnepan MG 3.6R after having them retro-fitted with excellent XOs, much more sensitivity and dynamics. I get all the resolution of my electrostats but with the impact of the "real thing",Now I use my Stax NLS only when my neighbors complain -they got my telephone number ...I miss the impact of the lower bass when I listen to my Staxes. So I turn on my active sub, it works from 18 Hz to 40 Hz, where the Maggies kick in.Cheers, Jörg.


 
   
  Are you listening to your Sub and STAX headphones together?  I tried this the other week were I used the RCA out on my energizer and fed it into my sub amp.  I didn't find it to add much to the music and kept having problems getting the frequency range and gain of the sub to blend with the sound of the headphones.


----------



## yawg

miceblue said:


> ^ good questions. I'm curious too. I'm not much of a tube person and I like DIY projects. Being barely under $2000 is still a high price for me though.



 
 I was never a "tube person" myself until I tried them out seriously. Good (NOS) tubes just sound more natural to my old ears, in critical amps like a DAC line stage and a mid/treble power amp. Higher THD means nothing with tubes, they are "euphonic" i.e. they answer perfectly to our ears, when overdriven they merely "sing" while transistor amps sound very harsh even when only slightly overdriven and might kill your tweeters ... Give 'em a try. You won't regret it I swear (after 25 years of transistor-only amping) I found aural heaven, enjoying my EAR 549 tube power monos and Cayin DA-2 DAC.


----------



## davidsh

Thought I'd mention that the 7k orpheus system is a scam: http://www.head-fi.org/t/646096/sennheiser-orpheus-has-blown-my-mind/60#post_9673053
  Look at the last posts of the thread.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





sam_zagami said:


> Does anyone here on head-fi know where to get reasonably priced/used diaphragms for Stax Lambdas? I have a pair of 404s with a dodgy channel. I think the 303s use the same diaphragm, it's the one with the red rim. It'd be nice to fix them, or maybe I should just part them out and buy another pair...


 
  Welcome back from lurking! 
   
  Did the channel imbalance happen out of the blue? Just so you know, I had a 404 Sig also develop channel imbalance with the left side being quieter to the right but I ended up selling it as repairs for it was just not worth it and it is impossible to buy spare transducers from anywhere else except the NSW Stax distributor which I got in contact with to get a quote, to me the fix was just not worth it at all. (BTW all other distributors from UK and USA don't stock 404 drivers). The same applies to the 303.
   
  Here's the response from Nathan from AudioMarketing, Australia's Stax distributor.
   
   


> [size=11pt]Hi David[/size]
> [size=11pt]We have the replacement elements for the SR-404[/size] in stock @ $440inc /pair (only available as a pair ...sorry). The Scot filter (foam surrounds inside the drive unit) are $30/pr , these usually get replaced in the older models when replacing elements.
> [size=11pt]I do not have the SR 407 elements in stock currently. I would recommend replacing both elements at the same time so image is not compromised by 2 differing elements.[/size]
> [size=11pt]Please let me know if I can help further or you would like to make an order.[/size]
> ...


 
   
   
  So all in all, it is a better option to part the current 404 and buy another one or you can wait for someone to rock up with a pair of spare driver or beat up 404 so you can fix it yourself, but your luck is whim.
   
  Do contact me if you're parting, I will be interested.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Welp, I got the buzzing in my KGSSHV fixed, which also fixed the channel imbalance which was being caused my a loose wire in the amp. So it wasn't Stax's fault at all after all. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong cause I had originally thought it was grounding related but I discovered that it wasn't and was super easy to fix if only I had noticed sooner.
   
  I'm enjoying the musics now though


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The coating on those diaphragms is very current hungry when it should use almost none.  Just off the top of my head I think the N1000 has 1uf caps so not really compatible with the Stax setup.


 
   
   
  They worked/sounded the same with their N1000 "energizer" as they do with the SRM-T1.... which is to say, flaky.
   
  Tried another pair of ET-1000's on the N1000, and they sounded OK, so the N1000 is good.  
   
  Guess I'll just have to give up on the ET1000's.


----------



## LCfiner

So a few days ago I made an offer on ebay for a Lambda classic pro and SRM 212 driver. Impulsive thing to do as I didn’t think I’d get it but it looks like my offer was accepted. I probably overpaid, lol. Around $600 for the pair. I don’t even know if I’ll be using this setup as I really like my HE500 now. sigh.

_Anyway_, has anyone heard the Lambda Pro out of the little 212 driver? Can I get a little heads up as to how the Lambda Pro will sound out of it? Is it a particularly weak combo with the 212? Or is kinda close to how it might sound out of, say, an old SRM-1?

thanks.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> So a few days ago I made an offer on ebay for a Lambda classic pro and SRM 212 driver. Impulsive thing to do as I didn’t think I’d get it but it looks like my offer was accepted. I probably overpaid, lol. Around $600 for the pair. I don’t even know if I’ll be using this setup as I really like my HE500 now. sigh.
> 
> _Anyway_, has anyone heard the Lambda Pro out of the little 212 driver? Can I get a little heads up as to how the Lambda Pro will sound out of it? Is it a particularly weak combo with the 212? Or is kinda close to how it might sound out of, say, an old SRM-1?
> 
> thanks.


 
  Lol wasn't that the Lambda Signature and SRM212 driver?
   
  You out-offered me XD. Was it you with the $613? 
   
  I offered $550


----------



## LCfiner

evetan said:


> Lol wasn't that the Lambda Signature and SRM212 driver?
> 
> You out-offered me XD. Was it you with the $613?
> 
> I offered $550




It was $620 even. $550 would probably have been smarter, lol.

It’s a lambda sig pro with 212, yeah

Oh yeah, also comes with a stax extension cord. Might have been why I offered over $600. who knows?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> It was $620 even. $550 would probably have been smarter, lol.
> 
> It’s a lambda sig pro with 212, yeah
> 
> Oh yeah, also comes with a stax extension cord. Might have been why I offered over $600. who knows?


 
  In any case, if you don't like it..


----------



## LCfiner

ha ha, right. That actually has a good chance of happening if I can’t find a use for it around my place.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> They worked/sounded the same with their N1000 "energizer" as they do with the SRM-T1.... which is to say, flaky.
> 
> Tried another pair of ET-1000's on the N1000, and they sounded OK, so the N1000 is good.
> 
> Guess I'll just have to give up on the ET1000's.


 
   
  If the ET-1000 is a basically a write off then try recoating the diaphragms.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> So a few days ago I made an offer on ebay for a Lambda classic pro and SRM 212 driver. Impulsive thing to do as I didn’t think I’d get it but it looks like my offer was accepted. I probably overpaid, lol. Around $600 for the pair. I don’t even know if I’ll be using this setup as I really like my HE500 now. sigh.
> 
> _Anyway_, has anyone heard the Lambda Pro out of the little 212 driver? Can I get a little heads up as to how the Lambda Pro will sound out of it? Is it a particularly weak combo with the 212? Or is kinda close to how it might sound out of, say, an old SRM-1?
> 
> thanks.


 
  I have a feeling an underdriven lambda sig will sound quite bad, being edgy and forward with flabby bass. It's just a feeling. The T1 really does wonders in my opinion. I feel like I get the best out of them, but who knows with those 2000+ amps out there...
  Ohh, to T1/sig owners out there. What's your volume setting?


----------



## nemomec

I have both, the combination of signature and srm 212 sound very good and the amp have enough power only the bass is a little bit to less. The srm-t1 is the better amp for the signatures and the perfect combo.

Volume setting signature + srm-t1 is 4,5 or 11:30 on clock.


----------



## LCfiner

Thanks for the comments. I did some searching and it seems other people have agreed that the 212 doesn’t kill the Lambda sound. That’s nice to know.

Anyone else who has heard the 212 with lambdas, feel free to add. I’m quite curious.


----------



## sam_zagami

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Welcome back from lurking!
> 
> Did the channel imbalance happen out of the blue? Just so you know, I had a 404 Sig also develop channel imbalance with the left side being quieter to the right but I ended up selling it as repairs for it was just not worth it and it is impossible to buy spare transducers from anywhere else except the NSW Stax distributor which I got in contact with to get a quote, to me the fix was just not worth it at all. (BTW all other distributors from UK and USA don't stock 404 drivers). The same applies to the 303.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yep I signed up years ago but haven't really had a good look through the forums. I'm not really a headphone freak but am a bit of a hifi nerd, and I love Stax, not just their earspeaker setups but their crazy old amps too.
   
  On Audio Marketing, What? I contacted them a month or two back and was quoted something like $800 for a pair of diaphragms. Do they have a selective pricing strategy? 
   
  Someone else did the damage to these 404's, going by an indentation on the ear-side mesh I think they've taken a physical hit. The damaged side still works but is making maybe half the output compared to the fully working side, and with a distorted bass. My guess is that the stator is bent in towards the diaphragm. The frames and pads are still in good nick so I thought it might be worth getting a replacement diaphragm. I'll keep my eyes open for spares, otherwise I'll let you know if I lose patience...
   
   
  If you still had your 404s we could have split a pair of new diaphragms, one of us taking the new pair and one the used. Although if I can find a parts pair it still might be cheaper than that approach.


----------



## DefQon

@LCFiner: The Lambda Pro sound just ok out of the basic Stax amps. Srm Xh/212/252/253 and Xs with bias supply repopulated. The Lambda Pros were originally sold by Stax with the SRD 7db mk2 and the SRM1 MK2. The Stax basic amps is nothing to write home about.



sam_zagami said:


> Yep I signed up years ago but haven't really had a good look through the forums. I'm not really a headphone freak but am a bit of a hifi nerd, and I love Stax, not just their earspeaker setups but their crazy old amps too.
> 
> On Audio Marketing, What? I contacted them a month or two back and was quoted something like $800 for a pair of diaphragms. Do they have a selective pricing strategy?
> 
> ...




$800? Thats a rip off to be honest but it may be because I've gotten alot quotes through AM at the sametime. Yeah the 404's I sold had a imbalanced left side also had it the mesh slightly pushed in which I ended up fixing, played fine then imbalance out of the blue then I sold it for $200 shipped to a buyer in Denmark. It was in mint condition, so I then bought another 404 Sig with org box. Its fun and detailed sounding headphone out the 323S amp so its something to stay in my stable.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> @LCFiner: The Lambda Pro sound just ok out of the basic Stax amps. Srm Xh/212/252/253 and Xs with bias supply repopulated. The Lambda Pros were originally sold by Stax with the SRD 7db mk2 and the SRM1 MK2. The Stax basic amps is nothing to write home about.


 
  I think it is the lambda sig he is talking about?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yeah the 404's I sold had a imbalanced left side also had it the mesh slightly pushed in which I ended up fixing, played fine then imbalance out of the blue then I sold it for $200 shipped to a buyer in Denmark. It was in mint condition, so I then bought another 404 Sig with org box. Its fun and detailed sounding headphone out the 323S amp so its something to stay in my stable.


 
  Yea, that imbalance just keeps coming back...


----------



## LCfiner

davidsh said:


> I think it is the lambda sig he is talking about?




Yeah, it's the signature. The ad called them "signature pro" which looks like is a confusing name. As the sig and pro were different headphones. 

But the pics are of the sig. Seller just meant pro bias instead of standard bias, I think.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> Yeah, it's the signature. The ad called them "signature pro" which looks like is a containing name. As the sig and pro were different headphones.
> 
> But the pics are of the sig. Seller just meant pro bias instead of standard bias, I think.


 
  Think you are right about that.
   
  Don't want to annoy you even further, but I got my system for (sig and t1) for the same price as you paid... Point is, you might have paid a bit too much. My system isn't exactly mint, though (broken headband/arc, glued together)


----------



## DefQon

Yeah Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature are too different headphones.
   
  WOOT! 5000 posts, 500 more than I'm outta here.


----------



## davidsh

Made some kinda contract with the devil? 

Does your lambda sigs/pros have this particular old electronics smell?


----------



## tdogzthmn

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yeah Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature are too different headphones.
> 
> WOOT! 5000 posts, 500 more than I'm outta here.


 
   
Are the Lambda Pro's any good?  I'm interested in another pair of STAX to compliment my SR-507.  I'd love to find a nice SR-Omega but I can't quite afford one just yet.


----------



## DefQon

Yep they sure are but not as neutral as the other good headphones. They have one of the best bass reproduction out of the Lambda family, I and some others that have owned them like them. They are fairly laid back sounding (not to the extent of the O2 or LCD2/3's) but very enjoyable with excellent detail retrieval. 
   
  People who have owned the LP+SRM1 MK2 + ED-1 diffuse field equaliser say it is a very good sounding combination. But I personally found them sounding the best on a T1S amp, it just mellows out that treble out a bit. 
   
  imo I wouldn't say it complements the 507 very well as they all sound similar in one way or another but my preference goes to the LP by a wide margin on sound. For looks the 507 wins in this regard.


----------



## tdogzthmn

I would have thought the newer drivers of the 507 would give better detail and overall performance.  Would $350 be a fair price for the Lambda SR-Pro in good condition?


----------



## DefQon

Newer does not equal better. You'd find that most who have heard owned the new and old Stax prefer the older stuff and not much people here fancy the 507.
   
  $350 for a good condition LP is bang on the money of its value and average selling price.


----------



## EveTan

Yea, it's a pretty good price. So good that I'd probably  take it if you didn't


----------



## DefQon

Lol someone hasn't learnt there lesson. How's the channel imbalance? Getting noticeably better? According to another person who had the same issue, once the channel intermittently goes channel imbalanced now and then it mean's it is almost at 100% health.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Lol someone hasn't learnt there lesson. How's the channel imbalance? Getting noticeably better? According to another person who had the same issue, once the channel intermittently goes channel imbalanced now and then it mean's it is almost at 100% health.


 
  Hmm. I guess it's doing that. It's also buzzing and hissing in that channel though.... so I'm worried about that.


----------



## DefQon

Yeah my 404 was like that as. Just let it keep playing.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Speaking of channel imbalance. I'm so happy mine didn't turn out to be anything to do with the headphones. Turns out feeding a differential amp with only the negative leg of the signal and not grounding the positive leg leads to way less volume and buzzing in the side effected >.>


----------



## tdogzthmn

How would the Stax owners here rate their top 3 favorites in the Lambda series?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yeah my 404 was like that as. Just let it keep playing.


 
  Wasn't that the one you had to sell off?


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





tdogzthmn said:


> How would the Stax owners here rate their top 3 favorites in the Lambda series?


 

 1. Lambda Signature or Lambda Pro
  2. Lambda Nova Signature
  3. Lambda SR-404 Limited Edition


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Wasn't that the one you had to sell off?


 
  Yep sold it off because there was no way I was going to leave them playing for 2 weeks straight and there was another 404 with org box floating on yahoo Japan for a good price.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> 1. Lambda Signature or Lambda Pro
> 2. Lambda Nova Signature
> 3. Lambda SR-404 Limited Edition


 
  Since I haven't heard the Sig's.
   
  My list would be
   
  1. LNS/LP
  2. 202/404/303/Nova Classic/Basic/Lambda/ESP-950
  3. 207/407
  ...
  ...
  5. 507 and some really weird sounding LP I purchased last year, think it was a Lambda Pro Classic or something.


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  You forgot the Lambda Nova Signature Pro Limited Edition.


----------



## DefQon

It's Lambda Nova Signature Classic Pro Limited Edition for ya.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Since I haven't heard the Sig's.
> 
> My list would be
> 
> ...


 
  Wow... so tier 2 has all of those sounding basically the same? Dang, I'm glad I only tried the 202s.
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> You forgot the Lambda Nova Signature Pro Limited Edition.


 
  Oh you. Insert dogrolleye.jpg


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Wow... so tier 2 has all of those sounding basically the same? Dang, I'm glad I only tried the 202s.


 
  They don't sound all the same but it's just I was reaching out for my LP more often of the time or the LNS I borrowed for a month. The two primary genres I listen to are electronic and classical, for classical the LNS and my HD800's took most of my headtime till my Omega's came and I had to return the LNS back to my friend. For electronic music it was my LP that took most my headtime. Now my SR-5, 404 and LP share equal headtime. My Gamma Pro and 202 are for display now. For classical my HD600 do the job wonderfully either off my modded DV 336SE or Crack amp.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yeah Lambda Pro and Lambda Signature are too different headphones.
> 
> WOOT! 5000 posts, 500 more than I'm outta here.


 
   
  I remember your sig use to read something like 2800 posts and you'd be leaving a little while ago...
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> Wow... so tier 2 has all of those sounding basically the same? Dang, I'm glad I only tried the 202s.


 
   
  Not really.


----------



## wink

Only if you have tin ears........


----------



## telecaster

tdogzthmn said:


> How would the Stax owners here rate their top 3 favorites in the Lambda series?



1-sr507
2-sr207
3-sr404


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Oh you're the Melbourne person. 
  I might apply to the University of Melbourne's graduate school program because of their stem cell research.
  http://medicine.unimelb.edu.au/ehac/otolaryngology/research/implantable_transducers
   
   
  My top 3 are:
 1. Lambda Signature
  2. SR-207
  3......I haven't heard a 3rd one yet


----------



## telecaster

defqon said:


> For classical my HD600 do the job wonderfully either off my modded DV 336SE or Crack amp.



I have dv339 completely rebuild with 6as7g GEC and tungsol 6sj7gt together with hd650 and they are wonderful for lot of genres but to me for classical they are sounding like toys vs my 507/006ts.


----------



## sam_zagami

Quote: 





defqon said:


> $800? Thats a rip off to be honest but it may be because I've gotten alot quotes through AM at the sametime. Yeah the 404's I sold had a imbalanced left side also had it the mesh slightly pushed in which I ended up fixing, played fine then imbalance out of the blue then I sold it for $200 shipped to a buyer in Denmark. It was in mint condition, so I then bought another 404 Sig with org box. Its fun and detailed sounding headphone out the 323S amp so its something to stay in my stable.


 
   
  Still, that's a horrible way to do business. They probably assumed I was some cashed up newbie with fancy headphones and tried to gouge me. I hope they don't scratch their heads too much about why folks in Australia get their Stax gear from overseas.
   
  Dunno what I'll do about the 404s but if I give up on them I'll let you know.
   
  I might—not 100% sure yet, but I might—need a power transformer for a SRM-T1/SRM-006t/SRM-006ta (I think they're essentially the same) as well if you know of one, or have a parts SRM unit. Long story...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> I remember your sig use to read something like 2800 posts and you'd be leaving a little while ago...


 
  Said no one ever. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Quote: 





wink said:


> Only if you have tin ears........


 
  Or out of beer cans. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





telecaster said:


> I have dv339 completely rebuild with 6as7g GEC and tungsol 6sj7gt together with hd650 and they are wonderful for lot of genres but to me for classical they are sounding like toys vs my 507/006ts.


 
  Well the HD650 is a bit more darker than the HD600's which are all round more neutral, but for piano sonatas which is primarily a sub-genre of the classical branch that I listen to, the piano texture and reproduction from the combo mentioned it sounds really great that I actually prefer over my Stax stuff and the HD800's that I had but loses to the O2 Mk1 and Omega not by much. On the Lambda's piano notes sound too dry, cold and bright without weight or it just sounds lacking impact on the listener. 
   
  Quote: 





sam_zagami said:


> Still, that's a horrible way to do business. They probably assumed I was some cashed up newbie with fancy headphones and tried to gouge me. I hope they don't scratch their heads too much about why folks in Australia get their Stax gear from overseas.
> 
> Dunno what I'll do about the 404s but if I give up on them I'll let you know.
> 
> I might—not 100% sure yet, but I might—need a power transformer for a SRM-T1/SRM-006t/SRM-006ta (I think they're essentially the same) as well if you know of one, or have a parts SRM unit. Long story...


 
   
  Weird, from the many quotes on parts Nathan has got back to me, they are better than electromods.uk, Yamasinc and one of the German distributors. 
   
  What do you mean by transformer? Step down? You re-wire the internal trafo to desired 240v for our AC.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> If the ET-1000 is a basically a write off then try recoating the diaphragms.


 
  Recoat- what's best, do you think?  One of the typical things one uses for electrostatics - dish detergent? dry graphite? Elvamide? Calaton?


----------



## spritzer

Try anti stat coating for screens.  Details in the DIY ESP thread in the DIY section.


----------



## autoteleology

My observations have shown that electrostatic headphones react to improvements in amplification much differently, and more drastically, than dynamic headphones. Would anyone else agree to this, and care to elaborate on their experiences?


----------



## NoPants

I can yes to the above
   
  I've only compared a transformer box and the kgsshv, which is a pretty dramatic gap to begin with. Overall I would say the mids are mostly the same but there's a lot more control over the extremes when you move up to dedicated amplification.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Oh you're the Melbourne person.
> I might apply to the University of Melbourne's graduate school program because of their stem cell research.
> http://medicine.unimelb.edu.au/ehac/otolaryngology/research/implantable_transducers
> 
> ...


 
   
  FWIW I'll throw in...
   
  1) SR-407
  2) SR-202
  3) ESP-950
   
  That's what I got.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> My observations have shown that electrostatic headphones react to improvements in amplification much differently, and more drastically, than dynamic headphones. Would anyone else agree to this, and care to elaborate on their experiences?


 
   
  I would not say more drastically.
  My hearing ain't the best given my age.
  FWIW, IMO a SRM-252 sounds about 80% as good as what a Blue Hawaii would.
  Not bad, considering ~$300 vs $5000.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





nopants said:


> I can yes to the above
> 
> I've only compared a transformer box and the kgsshv, which is a pretty dramatic gap to begin with. Overall I would say the mids are mostly the same but there's a lot more control over the extremes when you move up to dedicated amplification.


 
   
  Trafo boxes just suck compared to amps.
  Yeah, I got both a SRD-6 and a KGSSHV.


----------



## rgs9200m

It seems to me that the SR009 has different amplification needs than the SR007. It sounds like the SR009 is more efficient for one,
  and needs less power, but there are other things going on too I guess.
  (I note that Asr  feel the BHSE is an excellent match for the SR007, better than with the SR009.)
  And I guess the Liquid Lightning was designed with the SR009 in mind.
  This is just what I have surmised from perusing the forums.
  Correct me if I'm on the wrong track here.


----------



## livewire

Sounds right on to me. Dunno anything about the LL tho.
  BTW, the EC Electra amp with the 007's is sublime!
  I was in awe of this setup.


----------



## n3rdling

The most drastic changes do indeed occur in the frequency extremes and it makes sense when you think of the load electrostats present to the amp.  Look up impedance curves of capacitors to get a general idea.


----------



## M-13

Will the 007Mk2 sound terrible from the 323S? What about the 727II?
   
  Is it worth it to get the 727II over the 323S for the SR-007MK2?


----------



## 3X0

I'm considering grabbing a SRM-323S for my HE60 but both impressions with the specific pairing and comparisons against the T1 are few and far between...


----------



## Failed Engineer

What is a fair price to pay for a good condition HE60?  A poor condition one?  I may have sourced one but the potential seller doesn't know, and I don't either.


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





livewire said:


> I would not say more drastically.
> My hearing ain't the best given my age.
> FWIW, IMO a SRM-252 sounds about 80% as good as what a Blue Hawaii would.
> Not bad, considering ~$300 vs $5000.


 
  Oh seriously? Then I might just a 007 and power it with my 252 and call it quite .
   
  Really hope that's the case :3


----------



## SBranson

I guess I'll ask here as I need some source help.  In a recent flurry of upgrading I now have the SR-007mk1 and SRM-007tA.  I haven't had a chance to let my front end catch up so, embarrassingly, I'm running an lossless files on an ipod through a CLAS from an earlier portable set-up.
   
  I'm thinking to go from my Macbook through an HRT Streamer HD (the HiFi+ article kinda sold me on it).  Is there some software I should look into as well.  
  This is kinda new to me as I was more of a vinyl/cd guy a half a dozen years ago when I had a decent speaker system. (this right after I sold my VPI Aries, Shelter 501mk2, Audiomat Phono1)
   
Sorry if this is too indirectly related to Stax but I want something that will match.  
   
  I had thought of the Audiolab 8200CDQ first though.


----------



## livewire

Quote:  





> Oh seriously? Then I might just a 007 and power it with my 252 and call it quite .
> 
> Really hope that's the case :3


 
   
  You were stating electrostatic headphones in general...
  The 007 _is_ the exception. It _does_ require more voltage swing to make it function well.
  The 252 only puts out +/- 280 volts. 400-450 volts is what the 007 requires to shine.


----------



## DefQon

Don't forget the original Omega's as well, not as power hungry as the Mk1's but there was a reason why Stax released them with the original T2's and why Birgir recommended that I feed it some BHSE juice.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





evetan said:


>


 
  You'd better off 009 with the 252.. Increasing the budget on the loudspeaker or headphone is not the same as throwing away money in a DAC or an AMP


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Try anti stat coating for screens.  Details in the DIY ESP thread in the DIY section.


 
  Aha, OK, good, many thanks.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> I guess I'll ask here as I need some source help.  In a recent flurry of upgrading I now have the SR-007mk1 and SRM-007tA.  I haven't had a chance to let my front end catch up so, embarrassingly, I'm running an lossless files on an ipod through a CLAS from an earlier portable set-up.
> 
> I'm thinking to go from my Macbook through an HRT Streamer HD (the HiFi+ article kinda sold me on it).  Is there some software I should look into as well.
> This is kinda new to me as I was more of a vinyl/cd guy a half a dozen years ago when I had a decent speaker system. (this right after I sold my VPI Aries, Shelter 501mk2, Audiomat Phono1)
> ...


 
  Gosh, there are so many good DACs out there....  lots of DAC threads on Head-Fi to read.  I wonder what Spritzer uses for a DAC?  He's very  Stax-oriented....


----------



## autoteleology

This is what I use for a DAC, because I can hardly tell the difference between the
   

 Perfect Wave II ($4,000)
 ODAC ($150)
 ELE DAC ($10).
   
  At least this is convenient and will do double duty as a mediocre amplifier if you want it to. I fail to see the reason why a DAC should ever need to cost more than $75 if this can do as well as anything else I've heard.


----------



## davidsh

What happened to that story about being run over while using Stax?


----------



## Chris J

livewire said:


> I would not say more drastically.
> My hearing ain't the best given my age.
> FWIW, IMO a SRM-252 sounds about 80% as good as what a Blue Hawaii would.
> Not bad, considering ~$300 vs $5000.





That sounds great, especially since I don't have $5000 to blow on a BHSE!


----------



## antonyfirst

This seems anything but the high-end audio forum.


----------



## antonyfirst

This seems anything but the high-end audio forum.


----------



## RedBull

Has anyone using Woo WES transformer here? And what do you think compared to dedicated Stax amp?


----------



## RedBull

tus-chan said:


> This is what I use for a DAC, because I can hardly tell the difference between the
> 
> 
> Perfect Wave II ($4,000)
> ...




Whatt??


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Perfect Wave II ($4,000)
> ODAC ($150)
> ELE DAC ($10).


 
  No offense but you gotta have shoddy ears if you cannot tell the difference between the $15-20 ELE PCM2704 usb dac vs ODAC or the PW2.


----------



## davidsh

Re-reading darth nut's epic Omega II review.. Opinions on it?


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





defqon said:


> No offense but you gotta have shoddy ears if you cannot tell the difference between the $15-20 ELE PCM2704 usb dac vs ODAC or the PW2.


 
   
  The ELE DAC is pretty close, but admittedly, it's not as good as, say, the ODAC. A bit of an exaggeration on my part earlier, but honestly, the $10 DAC is 90% of the ODAC, and the ODAC to me is 100% of the PW2. I've stated repeatedly beforehand that I couldn't tell even the slightest difference between the ODAC and the PW2 using TOTL gear (HD800, TH-900, LCD-3, SR-303, etc.), and I had a virtually instant mechanism to switch between the two.
   
  I think my $50 DAC is at least on the verge of being audibly transparent (as long as you're not using it as an amp as well), and the form factor is incredible. I see little reason to upgrade or buy anything else, and I would recommend it to anyone in PC audio because of its excellent simplicity, durability, size, price point, and performance.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> The ELE DAC is pretty close, but admittedly, it's not as good as, say, the ODAC. A bit of an exaggeration on my part earlier, but honestly, the $10 DAC is 90% of the ODAC, and the ODAC to me is 100% of the PW2. I've stated repeatedly beforehand that I couldn't tell even the slightest difference between the ODAC and the PW2 using TOTL gear (HD800, TH-900, LCD-3, SR-303, etc.), and I had a virtually instant mechanism to switch between the two.
> 
> I think my $50 DAC is at least on the verge of being audibly transparent (as long as you're not using it as an amp as well), and the form factor is incredible. I see little reason to upgrade or buy anything else, and I would recommend it to anyone because I think it's awesome.


 
   
  You're very lucky. Your journey ends there and your wallet can celebrate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  For many others and I speak here for myself, it's a very long way in SQ.


----------



## autoteleology

I just don't believe that DACs contribute virtually anything to the sound once you get to the point where shortcuts in topology aren't being taken and quality components are being used. I'd prefer to put all my money in transducers and amps where the difference is obvious, if not impossible, to ignore.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Gosh, there are so many good DACs out there....  lots of DAC threads on Head-Fi to read.  I wonder what Spritzer uses for a DAC?  He's very  Stax-oriented....


 
   
  I use a MSB Platinum DACIII which has been fully updated with all the newest stuff they offer and the best dac modules.  Then I worked on it a bit more making small improvements here and there. 
   
  This is my end game in terms of sources... well until it dies and I can't bring it back to life.  It's been running 24/7 for almost two years now and never misses a beat. 
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Re-reading darth nut's epic Omega II review.. Opinions on it?


 
   
  It's epic...?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  All kidding aside he pretty much nails it.  Clear definitions as to why the 007 is superior to the SR-Omega and his attempts to work out the headstage lingo were quite revolutionary.


----------



## RedBull

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> I use a MSB Platinum DACIII which has been fully updated with all the newest stuff they offer and the best dac modules.  Then I worked on it a bit more making small improvements here and there.
> 
> This is my end game in terms of sources... well until it dies and I can't bring it back to life.  It's been *running 24/7 for almost two years* now and never misses a beat.


 
   
  Tell me you are joking?
   
  Btw, spritzer.  What do you think about Woo WES?  I tried using Cary 300 SEI speaker amp to SR-009 and I thought it's awesome!  But I am a Stax newbie, need more enlightenment from senior Staxer


----------



## negura

Quote: 





redbull said:


> Tell me you are joking?
> 
> Btw, spritzer.  What do you think about Woo WES?  I tried using Cary 300 SEI speaker amp to SR-009 and I thought it's awesome!  But I am a Stax newbie, need more enlightenment from senior Staxer


 
   
  Do you mean Woo *Wee*? Woo Wes is a $5000+ amplifier.


----------



## 3X0

tus-chan said:


> I just don't believe that DACs contribute virtually anything to the sound once you get to the point where shortcuts in topology aren't being taken and quality components are being used. I'd prefer to put all my money in transducers and amps where the difference is obvious, if not impossible, to ignore.



I agree. I've been down the road with $4000+ upstream setups and I don't think there's any substantive difference between that and some of the better $100-150 gear.

Electrostatic amplification is another matter, however.


----------



## RedBull

Oh, sorry, yes, Woo Wee.  See, you can tell I am a Stax newbie  
  What do you think?  Is it good or bad? so-so?


----------



## negura

Quote: 





redbull said:


> Oh, sorry, yes, Woo Wee.  See, you can tell I am a Stax newbie
> What do you think?  Is it good or bad? so-so?


 
   
  I'm a Stax newbie too. Should've really said hello to the thread. Hello! As this is my only option at the moment to extend my existing dynamic rig, I am presently running the SR007-MKIs out of Woo Wee and amped by the Taboo Decware MK3 via speaker taps. It's definetely enjoyable and the MKIs sound very transparent, clean and clear, but I'm very interested to determine where this sits in the order of things. I'm still reading through the thread maybe I will buy a proper stat amp that doesn't break the bank to compare and then decide what's going to get sold. 
   
  I am not quite ready to part with the LCD-3s as they do a few things very well.


----------



## RedBull

Actually I am not really a newbie yet as I don't have any Stax, but I am getting more and more interested after listening out of Cary 300 SEI and Cantata cd player.

But yeah, "Hello thread!"


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





redbull said:


> Tell me you are joking?
> 
> Btw, spritzer.  What do you think about Woo WES?  I tried using Cary 300 SEI speaker amp to SR-009 and I thought it's awesome!  But I am a Stax newbie, need more enlightenment from senior Staxer


 
   
  Dacs should be run 24/7 and this one doesn't even have a power switch. 
   
  I've had to fix two brand new WEE's for users here as they simply didn't work so I wouldn't recommend buying one.  Just get a Stax SRD-7 Mk2.


----------



## rgs9200m

I don't think I ever read anywhere about running Stax phones out of a speaker amp.
  There must be some reason why this should not work well (or maybe even harm the phones).
   
  (This is in response to the person who mentioned the Cary 300SEI amp above.)


----------



## jaycalgary

What do you think the transformer boxes are for?


----------



## cjfrbw

Get one of these, Stancor modified SRD 5!
   
  Just kidding, but it does sound awesome, though suffering from a bad case of the DIY fuglies.


----------



## reiserFS

I can't seem to find a reasonably priced basic stax system for my desktop. 950€ for the basic set is just a plain ripoff. There's a Lambda + SRM-1 MK2 for 549€ though..


----------



## RedBull

spritzer said:


> Dacs should be run 24/7 and this one doesn't even have a power switch.
> 
> I've had to fix two brand new WEE's for users here as they simply didn't work so I wouldn't recommend buying one.  Just get a Stax SRD-7 Mk2.




Wow! Great advice. I never thought Stax itself have the same solution, and it's cheaper too.
I will find some more information about it. Thanks.
Do you think running this way is ok? Or it will alter the sound so much? Or affect dynamic. I don't like the sound from Stax amps though, dynamic is too flat.



rgs9200m said:


> I don't think I ever read anywhere about running Stax phones out of a speaker amp.
> There must be some reason why this should not work well (or maybe even harm the phones).
> 
> (This is in response to the person who mentioned the Cary 300SEI amp above.)




No no, I am not running directly from speaker amp. It goes through an adapter first, Woo Wee.



cjfrbw said:


> Get one of these, Stancor modified SRD 5!
> 
> Just kidding, but it does sound awesome, though suffering from a bad case of the DIY fuglies.




Hahaha, look a little frankenstein-ish


----------



## telecaster

A stax amp is really needed to fully enjoy your stats. The transformer is like a bandaid for lack of a real amp.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I can't seem to find a reasonably priced basic stax system for my desktop. 950€ for the basic set is just a plain ripoff. There's a Lambda + SRM-1 MK2 for 549€ though..


 
  from Pricejapan you get SRS4170 for around 1100€ ish. The SRS3170 is 800€ ish. The basic SRS005mkII is only 450€. This is writing while immensely enjoying and some Chemical Brothers with the 400€ SRS002, Stax can be affordable.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> from Pricejapan you get SRS4170 for around 1100€ ish. The SRS3170 is 800€ ish. The basic SRS005mkII is only 450€.


 
   
  Which one for both the SR007 MKI and SR009?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I can't seem to find a reasonably priced basic stax system for my desktop. 950€ for the basic set is just a plain ripoff. There's a Lambda + SRM-1 MK2 for 549€ though..


 
  That lambda set... I guess it is a fair price in Europe, but if you have the patience, maybe you can do better. Got my set for only 470€, which is a very good price in Europe. Earlier we have discussed the very very high prices on Stax stuff in eu.


----------



## autoteleology

What exactly is the difference between the Stax SRD-X Professional, any Stax basic amp, and any random energizer, in terms of how they amplify?


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What exactly is the difference between the Stax SRD-X Professional, any Stax basic amp, and any random energizer, in terms of how they amplify?


 
   
  SRD-X Pro uses a chip-amp feeding step-up transformers that output HV to the earspeakers.
   
  Stax Basic amp uses discreet power transistors that output HV to the earspeakers.
   
  "Random energizer" connects to a dynamic amplifier that feeds
  the primary LV (input) side of the energizer's step-up transformers that output HV to the earspeakers.
   
  That being said, IMO anything that uses transformers as the output to the earspeakers is inferior in sound quality.


----------



## autoteleology

Interesting. So, the SRD-X Pro is like a hybrid amp/energizer.


----------



## livewire

Yup.


----------



## RedBull

telecaster said:


> A stax amp is really needed to fully enjoy your stats. The transformer is like a bandaid for lack of a real amp.




Really? Hmm. What do you think is the main difference?


----------



## cjfrbw

Everybody is entitled to their opinion or preference, but to state that transformer coupling is inherently inferior is nothing more than an assertion fallacy.
   
  It's fine to tell somebody what you prefer or like, but to make blanket assertions is just misleading.
   
  I have heard some transformer coupled rigs that I didn't like so much, but then, some direct amps don't sound so good, either.
   
  I don't think the Woo stuff uses the highest caliber of transformers.  That, or the standard stax transformer boxes (which I think sound pretty good for what they are) seem to be the major references, or the boxes are used with amps that aren't so great.
   
  I heard a 007 with a Stax 7 box and a Woo 5 300b amp, that I thought I would like, and I didn't particularly.


----------



## negura

I can only compare based on what I am hearing out of the Taboo MK3 amp + Wee + 007MKIs vs the LCD-3s out of the same amplifier.
   
  So far I think I prefer the LCD-3s with modern genres, but I haven't decided which one I prefer overall yet. The 007MKIs as I hear them are definitely bettering the LCD-2s for example. Where the LCD-3s win in bass quality, energy, treble spark, the SR007MKIs win in transparency, naturalness of soundtage presentation, background blackness and female vocals.
   
  There are several aspects where I hear them similarly: both are warm sounding, great transients (but very different decays), both are very detailed yet forgiving and very important to me: both ROCK HARD.
   
  I am pleased with how the SR007MKIs sound for the added investment in  the convertor, however look forward to try them on a dedicated stat amplifier, once I figure out which one and ready for the damage.


----------



## miceblue

I freakin' LOVE the SRS-2170 with rock music! I can't say the same for the LCD-2. The treble was seriously lacking any sort of presence or enjoyment with those.


----------



## eric65

Hello,
   
  For information.
   
  On the French forum Stax HCFR, we will realize early September (7 and 8 September) an interesting confrontation of electrostatic amplifiers, single-blind, after equalization of levels with a voltmeter, with a Stax SR 009 headphone.
  Amplifiers list  selected: Eddie Current Electra (one of superfred21) ; Stax SRM 727 (that of Pierre (Peter)) ; combi Audiovalve RKV mk2 + WooAudio Wee (mine).
  Dacs used : TotalDac D1; Audiomat Maestro Reference ;  PS Audio Perfect Wave mk2.
   
  We seek the amplifier giving the best possible synergy with the SR 009 and we will keep you informed of the outcome of this confrontation.
   
  Eric


----------



## negura

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> Hello,
> 
> For information.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Great stuff. Very interested to hear how it went. 
  One question though: According to Google the Audiovalve RKV mk2 appears to be a headamp with no speaker taps. How are you connecting the Wee to it and how much power is put through to the Wee?


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





cjfrbw said:


> Everybody is entitled to their opinion or preference, but to state that transformer coupling is inherently inferior is nothing more than an assertion fallacy.
> 
> It's fine to tell somebody what you prefer or like, but to make blanket assertions is just misleading.
> 
> ...


 
  My assertion is partially false of course, but who will pay vintage state of the art transformer that will cost nearly as much as a BHSE in order to step up a regular power amp to drive their stats??? Nowadays low cost transformers are a nightmare thats what I believe


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> A stax amp is really needed to fully enjoy your stats. The transformer is like a bandaid for lack of a real amp.


 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> That being said, IMO anything that uses transformers as the output to the earspeakers is inferior in sound quality.


 
  I strongly disagree with these being said as facts (except livewires imo). I own both a Stax amp and a Stax SRD7sb MK2 energizer and I can tell you that a energizer powered by a decent speaker amp is no slouch and will get you 80-90% of the sound performance if you have it plugged into a Stax amplifier (ruling out all aftermarket electrostatic amplifier).
   
  They have enough power so plenty of headroom and no clipping at 3'o clock on the dial, that said, the last 10-15% or even less is where Stax amplifiers have the advantage and that is detail and definition but if one would do a blind test you can't tell a difference between the two.
   
  Quote: 





cjfrbw said:


> Everybody is entitled to their opinion or preference, but to state that transformer coupling is inherently inferior is nothing more than an assertion fallacy.
> 
> It's fine to tell somebody what you prefer or like, but to make blanket assertions is just misleading.
> 
> ...


 
  +1.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





negura said:


> Great stuff. Very interested to hear how it went.
> One question though: According to Google the Audiovalve RKV mk2 appears to be a headamp with no speaker taps. How are you connecting the Wee to it and how much power is put through to the Wee?


 
   
  With an adapter.
   
  Output voltage max RKV: 80 Volts to the input of the 100 Kilo-Ohms Wee


----------



## negura

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> With an adapter.
> 
> Output voltage max RKV: 80 Volts DC to the input of the 100 KOhms Wee


 
   
  Cool. I read that the RKV can output 3W/channel which then indeed meets the minimum for the Woo Wee. Is it the SR009s you are normally driving with it?


----------



## eric65

Voltage max output Wee 35 x 80 Volts = 2800 Volts !
   
  Is it enough? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3855.html
   
  For details on the calculation of the ratio of amplification 1:35 transfomer of Wee


----------



## negura

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> Voltage max output Wee 35 x 80 Volts = 2800 Volts !
> 
> Is it enough?


 
   
  Maybe I am missing something here, but what I am talking about is Watts or VA (Power) and only because of the specifications requirement for the Woo Wee. 
   
http://www.wooaudio.com/products/wee.html

 Speaker amplifier input: >= 3 watts

   
  However I've read the below and this is where I understood that the RKV output gives 2x 3 Watts. If this is correct it meets the minimal specifications, but whether it's ideal I don't know. My amplifier does 2x 4.5Watts and again the same open question on my side. It does get very loud with no clipping though.
   
  Sources:
http://www.hifidirect.com.au/client/sec_index.php?p=217
http://www.casques-headphones.com/audiovalve/197-amplificateur-casque-rkv-mkii-a-tube-audiovalve.html
  [size=small]But there is even a third way of using the RKV. The performance of nearly 2*3 Watt is also adequate for driving loudspeakers. Therefore we use the so-called “Impedancer”, that reduces the output impedance of the RKV to the size of the loudspeakers impdedance. Basically high-class transmitters which scale down the output voltage. With loudspeakers starting from 93 dB you can receive an excellent musical result.[/size]


----------



## eric65

This is not the input power of the Wee that counts but the input voltage.
  Stax headphones operate in voltage, not in amperage. The wattage does not mean anything.
  The minimum specifications for the Wee wooaudio are at least 3 Watts on 8 ohms, which corresponds to a minimum input voltage of the Wee of about 5 volts.
V²= PR (P = 3 Watts ; R = 8 Ohms ; PR = 3*8=24 ; V = SQR 24 = 5 Volts)
   
  There was therefore the margin with the output 80 volts max of the RKV.


----------



## Chris J

eric65 said:


> This is not the input power of the Wee that counts but the input voltage.
> Stax headphones operate in voltage, not in amperage. The wattage does not mean anything.
> The minimum specifications for the Wee wooaudio are at least 3 Watts on 8 ohms, which corresponds to a minimum input voltage of the Wee of about 5 volts.




You need real power to do work: or in this case, move air.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> This is not the input power of the Wee that counts but the input voltage.
> Stax headphones operate in voltage, not in amperage. The wattage does not mean anything.
> The minimum specifications for the Wee wooaudio are at least 3 Watts on 8 omhs, which corresponds to a minimum input voltage of the Wee of about 5 volts.
> 
> There was therefore the margin with the output 80 volts max of the RKV.


 
  So, any headphone amp that can get away with feeding a watt into, say the HE-500, would be able to deal with the woo wee?


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





chris j said:


> You need real power to do work: or in this case, move air.


 
  If the input impedance of the wee is 100k ohm, and that is the load the amp strapped before it will see, I guess. Not a demanding load at all, I guess even the valhalla along with other OTL tube amps would deliver


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> So, any headphone amp that can get away with feeding a watt into, say the HE-500, would be able to deal with the woo wee?


 
   
  Probably.
   
  V²= PR (P = 1 Watt ; R = 38 Ohms (HE-500) ; PR = 38 ; V = SQR 38 = 6 Volts)
   
  The audiovalve RKV is an OTL amplifier capable of outputting very high voltages (up to 80 Volts RMS) for impedance (load) > 100 Ohms.
   
  With the combi RKV+ Wee, there is plenty powerful (up to 2800 Volts RMS output Wee with the Wee 1:35 amplification ratio) to grilling all headphones stax !
By comparison, the amplifier Stax SRM 727 produces only a maximum output voltage of 450 V rms / 1 KHz.


----------



## MacedonianHero

I had a very good day today. Just picked up one of spritzer's awesome recently made KGSSHV's. He was nice enough to configure it for North American voltages. Can't wait to get this beauty in house and get it fired up with my SR-009s. Imagine that, a Stax amp built by the Don of the Stax Mafia himself....lucky me!


----------



## livewire

Wasn't it built by Hennyo?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Wasn't it built by Hennyo?


 
  Nope. Brand new build by Birgir.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I had a very good day today. Just picked up one of spritzer's awesome recently made KGSSHV's. He was nice enough to configure it for North American voltages. Can't wait to get this beauty in house and get it fired up with my SR-009s. Imagine that, a Stax amp built by the Don of the Stax Mafia himself....lucky me!


 
   
  Spritzer just reworked a bunch of borked KGSSHV amps and put his faceplate on them.
  Guess we'll never know....What say you Spritz?


----------



## DefQon

But you have a KGSS? Why didn't you just shoot for a used DIYT2 or BHSE instead?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Wasn't it built by Hennyo?


 
  Didn't his unit blow up?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Wasn't it built by Hennyo?


 
   
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Nope. Brand new build by Birgir.


 
  ^ See above.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> But you have a KGSS? Why didn't you just shoot for a used DIYT2 or BHSE instead?


 
  I'm happy to end with the KGSSHV. Being an old tube guy, I'm happy with my life being "tube-free" and the T2...a bit of unobtanium. Sorry I didn't realize I had to clear it by you.


----------



## DefQon

I saw, that's what I meant in response to Livewire, I recall seeing his unit blowing up, so doubt Birgir would've sold you a blown/fixed up amp.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I saw, that's what I meant in response to Livewire, I recall seeing his unit blowing up, so doubt Birgir would've sold you a blown/fixed up amp.


 
  To confirm (again) brand new built by Birgir.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> I'm happy to end with the KGSSHV. Being an old tube guy, I'm happy with my life being "tube-free" and the T2...a bit of unobtanium. Sorry I didn't realize I had to clear it by you.


 
  Is there much difference in sound between the old KGSS and KGSSHV besides being a high voltage version?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Is there much difference in sound between the old KGSS and KGSSHV besides being a high voltage version?


 
  We shall see when it gets here in a week or two. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The specs on it are quite impressive. 
   
  I hope Birgir doesn't mind me posting his PM to me about the amp, but here goes:
   
_"Full +/-500V IXYS specification with an oversized SumR transformer which is configured for 117V only.  This does mean it is dead silent  .... you can hardly tell the bloody thing is running...  



   ...... The case is the Italian steel case I used on my first HV back in the day so the front is aluminum but the rest is painted steel. "_
   
Team Overkill strikes again.


----------



## DefQon

Awaiting impressions. Now I wish I had the rest of the funds to finish building mine. It's half-arsed atm. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Btw will you sell off the KGSS if the HV turn out to be better?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Awaiting impressions. Now I wish I had the rest of the funds to finish building mine. It's half-arsed atm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I will keep the better amp. But knowing Gilmore amps, I'm thinking the differences will be more in line with between the GS-1 and GS-X.


----------



## 3X0

How much should I expect to pay for a KGSS or KGSSHV provided I'm not building it myself?


----------



## loligagger

Anywhere in the neighborhood of $2000 for a KGSS and $3000 for an HV. Give or take.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





loligagger said:


> Anywhere in the neighborhood of $2000 for a KGSS and $3000 for an HV. Give or take.


 
  That's about right.


----------



## 3X0

Wasn't the HeadAmp KGSS ~$1500?


----------



## Solude

A decade ago yes.


----------



## NoPants

I wish I could charge that much for my shoddy casework  there was a bit of conversation I threw around with doctor Gilmore about getting a par metal template case for the new onboard version. Should lower the barrier to entry significantly as far as complete builds go if somebody were to contribute that work.


----------



## grawk

not just a decade ago, but a decade ago and he stopped making it because it wasn't making financial sense to keep building them.


----------



## tdogzthmn

Started playing around with using a dedicated Sub paired with my SR-507.  There's definitely a noticeable difference when the sub is on but it's hard getting the frequency and gain dialed in to make it sound cohesive.  It's hard to get right without annoying others just hearing low end wub-wub emanating from my room.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> This is what I use for a DAC, because I can hardly tell the difference between the
> 
> 
> Perfect Wave II ($4,000)
> ...


 
   
  What do you think of the ELE DAC?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





nopants said:


> I wish I could charge that much for my shoddy casework
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  In my DIY builds I am really trying hard to upgrade my casework. It's hard to do great things with metal when you don't have access to a CNC mill.  Here's a phono preamp I did (and sold) - polished copper and bubinga wood.
  My electronic work is quite good (IMHO  hahaha) but I really would like to keep improving in terms of chassis cosmetics.  I'm working on a Beta 22 right now with a front panel that I designed and had milled out of a billet of 6061 aluminum. I am also accumulating pieces for my T-2 chassis which I hope will be very handsome....


----------



## milosz

Where these made by Stax?


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> We shall see when it gets here in a week or two.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  What pot did he install?


----------



## negura

Quote: 





eric65 said:


> This is not the input power of the Wee that counts but the input voltage.
> Stax headphones operate in voltage, not in amperage. The wattage does not mean anything.
> The minimum specifications for the Wee wooaudio are at least 3 Watts on 8 ohms, which corresponds to a minimum input voltage of the Wee of about 5 volts.
> V²= PR (P = 3 Watts ; R = 8 Ohms ; PR = 3*8=24 ; V = SQR 24 = 5 Volts)
> ...


 
   
  It's been a while since my science classes, so may calculus below may not fare very well. Nevertheless according to the formula if we take the 80volts output and knowing the Impedance, could we not calcaulate the "power ouput" of the RKV accordingly based on an 80V voltage output into 8 ohms?
   
  V = SQRT (PR) which is:
  80 = SRQT (6400)
  PR = 6400
  P = 6400/8
  Power = 800 Watts
   
  That results into 800 Watts into 8 ohms. Something doesn't seem to add up... Where is the disconnect.


----------



## Chris J

negura said:


> It's been a while since my science classes, so may calculus below may not fare very well. Nevertheless according to the formula if we take the 80volts output and knowing the Impedance, could we not calcaulate the "power ouput" of the RKV accordingly based on an 80V voltage output into 8 ohms?
> 
> V = SQRT (PR) which is:
> 80 = SRQT (6400)
> ...




Never mind......! I screwed up, I mis-read the post! :rolleyes:


----------



## negura

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Looks like you have square root of 80 mixed up with 80 squared.
> 
> Square root of 80 is approx. 9!


 
   
  The knowns here are the voltage, which is 80 volts and impedance 8 Ohms.
  80^2 = 6400 (V²= PR). 6400 = PR = P x 8 (Ohms); P = 6400/8 = 800 Watts.
   
IF the calculation and formulas are correct the only way I can see the 80 volts happening with 3 watts power is in a different impedance. In other words those 80 Volts cannot be into 8 ohms with 3 Watts power. The reason I am going through this is that I am very interested to find what's required to drive the Wee/Stax well and what amplifier I need. 
   
Also I am quite puzzled why Woo Audio is showing 3 Watts as minimal specs, if this is not very important, and no other criteria. I could actually ask them directly.


----------



## SquireC

Stax srd7SB Mk2 and Woo Wee can only 'pass on' the signal from the power amp (or speaker amp) that is driving them. The better the amp, ( and source) the better the sound. I think in an earlier post, someone was using one with a Cary tube amp - have to say that I'm not a fan of the Cary's. I think they are a bit ragged for a valve amp.
   
  I find that the SRD7 is a transparent piece of kit - not to blame if the sound through the headphones fails to deliver 'magic'.
   
  I have directly compared with a SRM T1 fed from the same system's pre amp and found the sound slightly warmer, but less detailed.
   
  Perhaps to hit the heights you need a BHSE or KG, and perhaps in this 'test system' with such a headphone amp powering the headphones the sound would be a magnitude better - I don't know.
   
  Just making the point that it's not just which cans you prefer, or what headphone amp or transformer you prefer - it's the whole system that delivers the sound. I sometimes wonder when people ask which are the best headphones, etc, to buy, that sometimes they may be adding high quality cans to a low quality system and - frankly - may be expecting miracles.


----------



## arnaud

negura said:


> The knowns here are the voltage, which is 80 volts and impedance 8 Ohms.
> 80^2 = 6400 (V²= PR). 6400 = PR = P x 8 (Ohms); P = 6400/8 = 800 Watts.
> 
> 
> ...




There may have been a misunderstanding. RKV is specified as 3W under 8Ohm load and max 80V output. It does not mean it can swing 80V into an 8Ohms without falling apart... 

Actually, a google search returned 80V under 3-400 Ohm load which does correlate with the 3Wax output power.

Now the wee is 100kOhm input impedance, which implies the RKV can swing 80V without breaking a sweat under that charge, hence Eric's comment that you could potentially easily get to arcing using the wee as its transformer has at the very least a 25/1 ratio... 

If forgot how Eric came up with 30 but, as I recall, he used the sensitivity info and SPL measurement. I believe spritzer thought it was more like 50, in any case much more than the ~10x ratio used by stax in the old days for the srd units. Maybe birgir could comment (although considering how highly he thinks of the rkv and wee in isolation, I can easily imagine the tone of his upcoming comment lol .


----------



## negura

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> There may have been a misunderstanding. RKV is specified as 3W under 8Ohm load and max 80V output. It does not mean it can swing 80V into an 8Ohms without falling apart...
> 
> Actually, a google search returned 80V under 3-400 Ohm load which does correlate with the 3Wax output power.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I see. And regarding the Woo Wee "requirement" of 3 Watts or more. Does that provide sufficient information? Is there anything else to it or that we should know in terms of amplifier specifications to understand if a potential speaker/headphone amp will drive the Woo Wee optimally?


----------



## eric65

Hi

The input impédance of the wee is 100000 ohms not 8 ohm
No problem of load with the OTL RKV

Sorry for this short answer with my I Phone

Eric

PS thanks Arnaud


----------



## autoteleology

milosz said:


> What do you think of the ELE DAC?


 
   
  It's probably one of the best values in audio for the money I've ever heard. It's definitely not transparent and there are definitely audibly superior DACs out there, but for ten bucks, it's a massive value. It's a big eye-opener to how much you can get (especially DAC-wise) for just a little bit of cash.
   
  Hearing the ELE DAC, and then hearing the PWD2 shortly afterwards, is probably why I believe what I do about DACs not being very important in the signal chain. If a ten dollar tiny box can get that close (relatively) to massive (and massively expensive) TOTL gear, it really makes you think.


----------



## negura

Editted: Still at my previous question.


----------



## kevin gilmore

I know what the specs say for the wee, but trust me they are not right.
  The input impedance is something like 16 ohms. The output impedance
  is something like 100k ohms. Very similar to the stax transformers.
  Roughly same voltage gain.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> We shall see when it gets here in a week or two.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Birgir sent me an amp last year, took less than a week door to door. Maybe you'll have the same luck.


----------



## autoteleology

How do the bias voltage and the output voltage of an amplifier relate to each other?


----------



## kevin gilmore

The bias voltage depends on the distance between the diaphragm and the stators.
  260V for early stax, 580v for current stax, 560v for he60, 500v for he90, 600v for esp950
   
  output voltages of amplifiers ranges from +/-300 to +/-600 stator to ground.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I know what the specs say for the wee, but trust me they are not right.
> The input impedance is something like 16 ohms. The output impedance
> is something like 100k ohms. Very similar to the stax transformers.
> Roughly same voltage gain.


 
   
  Many thanks for the comments. Any advice or best guess to what one should look for one in amplifier specs to be a good match with the Wee? Or from anyone else that can answer.


----------



## spritzer

Normal bias was 200V but was later upped to 230V (around 1977). 
   
  Quote: 





eric65 said:


> This is not the input power of the Wee that counts but the input voltage.
> Stax headphones operate in voltage, not in amperage. The wattage does not mean anything.
> The minimum specifications for the Wee wooaudio are at least 3 Watts on 8 ohms, which corresponds to a minimum input voltage of the Wee of about 5 volts.
> V²= PR (P = 3 Watts ; R = 8 Ohms ; PR = 3*8=24 ; V = SQR 24 = 5 Volts)
> ...


 
   
  All of this is assuming the amp can drive the load of the WEE to max voltage swing which is probably can't.  While you might get some sound out of normal headphone amps it is far from an ideal setup unless you happen to like massive amounts of distortion.  Running anything at max voltage swing is never a good plan. 
   
  Quote: 





livewire said:


> Spritzer just reworked a bunch of borked KGSSHV amps and put his faceplate on them.
> Guess we'll never know....What say you Spritz?


 
   
  Kevin and I did pay a kings ransom for a bunch of parts and one "completed" amp from Hennyo.  Kevin ended up with the amp to try and get it working and I got the parts.  They did include two chassis but they ended up in the trash as Hennyo had spent hours drilling a bunch of holes into them seemingly just by eye...  The parts made up 6 pcb's and some random scatter of parts but not nearly enough for the full amps.  The PCB's were about 50% populated but bad packaging meant a lot of damage to the sand so I had to strip everything down and desolder every joint.  Now the main problem with all of this was an utter lack of any soldering skill by Hennyo.  Too much solder of unknown quality (as in not 60/40) and probably a rusty nail and a blowtorch to do the soldering.  I had to remove a lot of solder but it would still come back and haunt me. 
   
  So I strip down the boards and build them up again properly.  One of the PSU's had a huge explosion thanks to the aforementioned soldering skill so that had to be scrapped entirely and a new one built.  I then got in some new chassis and did indeed have it laser engraved like my other amps since I bloody built these things.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  I was never going to keep these amps so they are sold to recover the cost of building them.  The main goal was to get the parts out of circulation and into something useable. 
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Is there much difference in sound between the old KGSS and KGSSHV besides being a high voltage version?


 
   
  There is a difference but it's not too pronounced. 
   
  Quote: 





milosz said:


> Where these made by Stax?


 
   
  They were built my Micro Seiki.  The guy who designed them used to work for Stax back in the day.


----------



## Chris J

negura said:


> The knowns here are the voltage, which is 80 volts and impedance 8 Ohms.
> 80^2 = 6400 (V²= PR). 6400 = PR = P x 8 (Ohms); P = 6400/8 = 800 Watts.
> 
> IF the calculation and formulas are correct the only way I can see the 80 volts happening with 3 watts power is in a different impedance. In other words those 80 Volts cannot be into 8 ohms with 3 Watts power. The reason I am going through this is that I am very interested to find what's required to drive the Wee/Stax well and what amplifier I need.
> ...



 
 Never mind.....................I mis-read your post! Oooops!


----------



## SBranson

I saw a few pages ago something about letting the headphones warm up or "charge". 

Last night I went into my den and saw the glow of my tubes... Oops I left my SRM007tA on overnight. Well since it was warmed up I sat down to listen to a couple tracks,... WOW!
I had been previously a little underwhelmed by my O2mk1s thinking that I could sense the potential but maybe my source sucked but last night was a revelation.
It was a completely new audio experience. Though the music was familiar pieces, Joni Mitchell's Blue, I felt like I was sitting in the studio. It was an oddly personal and totally engaging experience. I ended up listening for over an hour. Thanks Stax!!

So is this from letting the O2s "charge" or is it just getting the amp more warmed up than usual?


----------



## NoPants

Great work Milo, my hands are just too shaky and the way I eyeball things simply isn't good enough for mechanical accuracy. 
   
  Casework will always be my downfall and I am firmly committed to finding ways to weasel out of doing it in the future Granted I haven't explored FPE or camexpert, so I might be cutting myself off short.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> I know what the specs say for the wee, but trust me they are not right.
> The input impedance is something like 16 ohms. The output impedance
> is something like 100k ohms. Very similar to the stax transformers.
> Roughly same voltage gain.


 
  Hello,
   
  The Wee input impedance 100K Ohms is false?
   
  It would be only 16 Ohms ?
   
  How did you get or measure this informations ?
   
  Otherwise, can you confirm the amplification ratio of the voltage wee 1:25 (from Arnaud and spritzer) or 1:35 according to my own measurements?
   
  Thank you in advance for your clarifications.
   
  NB : For details on the calculation of the ratio of amplification 1:35 transfomer of Wee (in french HCFR forum)
  http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3855.html


----------



## eric65

If the ratio of amplification of the voltage transformers wee is 1:25 and the impedance of the headphone output Wee is 145K ohms (impedance of Stax SR 009), then the input impedance of Wee should be 145000/25x25 = 232 ohms and not 16 ohms ?


----------



## kevin gilmore

you are talking about ac impedance at a particular frequency, and I am talking about the dc resistance of the primary.
   
  and this is the problem.
   
  the stax headphones are a pure capacitor. they represent a complex load whose impedance is dependent on frequency.
  their load translates back to the primary of the transformer at the turns ratio of the transformer.
   
  its much more accurate to measure the turns ratio into a known pure resistive load, or measure the inductance of
  the primary and the secondary. But something in the range of 1:25 to 1:35 is the right number.
   
  at 20hz the reflected input impedance is very high. at 20khz the reflected input impedance is very low. probably less than
  10 ohms which is why some of these transformer based units have a resistor in series with the primary. This is because
  many power amps really don't like to drive massively reactive loads like this.
   
  original decca ribbon tweeters with the low impedance transformers were famous for blowing up power amps.


----------



## eric65

Thank you for that clarification,
   
  It joined the measurements taken at the exit of RKV and therefore entry Wee at different frequencies for finding a large increase in amperage and lower voltage, from 5 kHz, which could bring of aténuation RKV combi-Wee in the high frequencies.
   
"  Ok Arnaud
   
Otherwise, you have a clue as to why the amperage increases sharply (with a drop of voltage level) to the sine frequencies  of 5 and 10 kHz compared to the level of amperage and voltage measured at the frequency of 500 Hz sine (see attached figures, published on the previous page).
Measurements made with the Stax SR 009 headphones plugged into the headphone jack of Stax WEE, WEE directly connected to one of the two headphone jacks RKV. WEE input level of 0.20 volts rms at 500 Hz input impedance WEE calculated about 100 K Ohms to the sine frequency of 500 Hz Level potentiometer volume RKV unchanged when these measures to such different frequencies.
   
Sine signal 250 Hz: 2.4 microA / 0.205 V
Sine 500 Hz: 2 microA / 0.203 V (NB: the input of the load R WEE and therefore output RKV estimated at this frequency (500 Hz) to R = U / I = 0.2 V / 0.000002 A = 100 000 Ohms (100 K Ohms)
1 kHz sine signal: 1.7 microA / 0.201 V (Note: sound level estimated listening about a good 80 dB with the SR 009 Stax headphone)
2 KHz sine signal: 2.6 microA / 0.193 V
5 kHz sine signal: 125 microA / 0.160 V
10 KHz sine signal: 163 microA / 0.115 V
   
Eric
   
EDIT: If these numbers are accurate (ie not the result of an artifact of my multimeter for voltage measurements / amps at these high frequencies of 5 and 10 kHz) would mean the RKV / torque WEE 009 + a log10 level loss (0.160/0.200) squared) x 10 (in dB) = 2 dB at 5 KHz with respect to 500 Hz; level drop passing log10 (0.115/0.200) squared) x 10 (in dB ) = 4.8 dB at 10 kHz relative to 500 Hz
To the ear, this could explain the relative softness in acute torque RKV / WEE 009 + if there exists a lower level of 2 dB at 5 kHz and about 5 dB at 10 kHz, which should be well listening to the 009 to mitigate the harshness often found in the upper midrange-treble (5 and 10 KHz)
Attractive hypothesis?   "
   
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3810.html
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3855.html


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





preproman said:


> What pot did he install?


 
_"Volume control is from my new batch of Alpha pots which were made with even stricter tolerances and the Stax socket is the one from Justin so the insertion force is just perfect (we spent a lot of time to get that just right). "_
   
  BTW, owning a HeadAmp KGSS, I absolutely love the insertion force on the Stax socket on it. Just feels so damn right
  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> Birgir sent me an amp last year, took less than a week door to door. Maybe you'll have the same luck.


 
   
  Good to hear!


----------



## TheAttorney

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> ... Oops I left my SRM007tA on overnight. Well since it was warmed up I sat down to listen to a couple tracks,... WOW!
> I had been previously a little underwhelmed by my O2mk1s thinking that I could sense the potential but maybe my source sucked but last night was a revelation.
> It was a completely new audio experience...





> So is this from letting the O2s "charge" or is it just getting the amp more warmed up than usual?


 
   
  I've posted much the same a while back, not necessarily on this thread. I also left my SRM007t on overnight by accident and heard an improvement in SQ. Not so much a revelation as a nice improvement. This compared to a warmup time of a few hours during an evening.
   
  I reckon it's the extended warmup time for the amp that made the difference, not extended charge time of the O2's. Because I repeated the exercise with the O2's disconnected overnight.
  Of course, leaving tube amps on all the time may be bad for other reasons...


----------



## DefQon

The same thing can be said for my old SRM1 MK2's, T1S and my current SRM1 MK1 and SRM323S, they sound more enhanced (subtle) if I leave it up for 30minutes to get all the electrons flowing nicely.


----------



## SBranson

Thanks for the reply.  I haven't had much time to listen lately so sometimes I start listening after the amp's flashing warm up light stops blinking. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I've had enough tube amps in the past to know that I should turn the amp on and then go do something before sitting down to listen but I couldn't believe how much more subtlety and resolution changed.  I'm excited again.  I guess I'll be treating these with more respect like back in the days when I had the speaker system..
   
  I wondered about the "charging the headphones" thing because it's not something I'd ever heard before.


----------



## milosz

> They were built my Micro Seiki.  The guy who designed them used to work for Stax back in the day.


 
   
  Micro Seiki, interesting.  I now remember seeing Micro Seiki electrostatic headphones being sold back then.  Interesting to learn that they were doing some OEM'ing.  Wealth of knowledge here on Head-Fi!


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





theattorney said:


> I've posted much the same a while back, not necessarily on this thread. I also left my SRM007t on overnight by accident and heard an improvement in SQ. Not so much a revelation as a nice improvement. This compared to a warmup time of a few hours during an evening.
> 
> I reckon it's the extended warmup time for the amp that made the difference, not extended charge time of the O2's. Because I repeated the exercise with the O2's disconnected overnight.
> Of course, leaving tube amps on all the time may be bad for other reasons...


 
  IMHO when electrostatics are good (charged up, no problems with either driver, no dust and reasonably driven), nothing is better. Not dynamics, not orthos, nothing.
   
  But when electrostatics are bad (dust/buzzing, freshly turned on, not enough power), _nothing _is worse.
   
  I'm sure some will disagree with the second part.


----------



## autoteleology

How does one go about replacing a fuse in a basic Stax amp? I learned that I actually might be able to repair my SRM-Xh.


----------



## kevin gilmore

on the srm-xh its rather obvious, but also soldered in. you can solder another fuse on top
  of it. there is probably a reason the fuse blew, or you are using a power brick that has
  the power reversed in which case its not going to turn on. Or the power brick is dead.


----------



## numbercube

http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/4/46423586f6e797b9fca1cb66e8be61035.jpg
http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/2/240cc2025ebcd8d22f8b214ac2db4b1c2.jpg
http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/4/40504b5b7ec8e80e11d79a26d40be11ac.jpg
http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/3/3803a1feca806d50493159566d80a40c2.jpg
http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/3/3d1fb51ad340e2c7e1421f5f8c861dbc0.jpg
http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/3/31bde0e74dadd8f78b1847a8247c9c6f7.jpg
   
  Which Lambda model is this? Many thanks.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





numbercube said:


> http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/4/46423586f6e797b9fca1cb66e8be61035.jpg
> http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/2/240cc2025ebcd8d22f8b214ac2db4b1c2.jpg
> http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/4/40504b5b7ec8e80e11d79a26d40be11ac.jpg
> http://cdn01.trixum.de/upload2/59800/59796/3/3803a1feca806d50493159566d80a40c2.jpg
> ...


 
   
  I think it´s a Lambda Pro Classic!?


----------



## autoteleology

I just don't have much experience with DIY when it comes to circuits. Ideally, I'd like to be able to do all of the work myself without paying someone else $50 to do it.
   
  Someone else wrote in a thread about how they repaired their SRM-252 multiple times by replacing the fuse after using the improper polarity power brick, and that's how I killed my Xh a long while ago. To be honest, I'm not even sure if replacing the fuse will work, and that's why I don't want to take it to a shop.

 Essentially, I'd like to know what kind of fuse the Xh requires, where to get them, and how to replace them. Could someone please give me a hand in this?


----------



## DefQon

That is a Lambda Spirit, as depicted by the Gamma looking headband assembly fixed to the arc.


----------



## kevin gilmore

one of these soldered on top of the dead one
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0263500MXL/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsNIlwy3aAdUVxIQvxhy%252big3IxVm6E6jyw%3d


----------



## autoteleology

Alright, great. I'll make an order for it now. Thanks, Kevin


----------



## spritzer

Just checked the SRM-Xh sitting on my desk and it doesn't have a fuse of any kind.  It's the one with the white-ish PCB.  The other version should have a fuse...


----------



## autoteleology

I think my PCB is just your average, run of the mill green substrate. I'm not sure if I have any pictures of it as of right now as an example, however.


----------



## kevin gilmore

mine is green, and the fuse has already been shorted out.
  I don't recommend shorting out the fuse.


----------



## autoteleology

I don't understand exactly what you mean by "shorting out".


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I just don't have much experience with DIY when it comes to circuits. Ideally, I'd like to be able to do all of the work myself without paying someone else $50 to do it.


 
  You're not alone. I'm pretty sure I could "fix" my SRM-T1 (really just wiring the volume pot back in) and maybe even my HE60's imbalance (by mucking around in the retermination area) if I invested some time in learning how to play with a soldering iron. Probably worth it in the long run.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I don't understand exactly what you mean by "shorting out".


 
  Think he is talking about soldering a wire or bar across the fuse, thus bypassing the fuse (or in your case the blown fuse).  Not a good idea.
   
  Reminds me of the movie theater owner who put a hanger (or something not really sure) in the fuse block when an electrical storm went through because he didn't want to refund our money.  After the door to the electrical room blew off its hinges, he ended up refunding our money_* and *_paying the fees for the fire department and EMS services that had to respond to the alarm that went off due to the smoke.  Ahh...the memories...


----------



## autoteleology

So, basically, make sure to replace the fuse and not take shortcuts?


----------



## DefQon

I have a green pcb Xh as well and I'm pretty positive mine didn't have a fuse as well when I recapped it.


----------



## Chris J

tus-chan said:


> So, basically, make sure to replace the fuse and not take shortcuts?




The fuse is for protection.
Protection from fires, at worst!
Think of them as brakes, would you drive around without brakes on your car?
Would you disable other safety features like seat belts?


----------



## rgs9200m

I sure wish Stax would try to work on an upgraded version of their 007 (and 727 I guess) amps.
   
  I don't see why it would be so expensive for them to do this, and I bet they would sell a lot of them to the Stax owners out there.
  And it seems like there is a lot of low-hanging-fruit as far as improvements go that could provide a lot of bang for the buck.
   
  They don't need to do another T2 to make some improvements to what seems to be a fine amp foundation already.
  Just do some tweaking. They don't have to start from scratch.


----------



## miceblue

Are there any other really expensive electrostatic headphones in production? The only ones I ever hear about are from STAX, of course (SR-007 and SR-009).


----------



## DefQon

There might be another Jade in the near future, early speculations that Sennheiser had a stat (possibly successor to the Orpheus) in the works but that turned out to be bs.


----------



## autoteleology

I guess Sennheiser doesn't want to make _lots of money_.


----------



## autoteleology

If I take a picture of my SRM-Xh PCB, can anyone tell me if/where a fuse is located on it?

Also, how does the Lambda (normal) compare to the Lambda Pro?


----------



## arnaud

rgs9200m said:


> I sure wish Stax would try to work on an upgraded version of their 007 (and 727 I guess) amps.
> 
> I don't see why it would be so expensive for them to do this, and I bet they would sell a lot of them to the Stax owners out there.
> And it seems like there is a lot of low-hanging-fruit as far as improvements go that could provide a lot of bang for the buck.
> ...




From the interview we had with them last year, and reflecting Birgir's point all along, there's no magic bullet though: the size / weight are bound to go up if you want to increase the drive capability while ensuring stable operation. 

I don't know the details on what Birgir plans to do to the 007t, but it seems along the line of pushing it further into class-A by increasing the idle current and the dissipated power at the same time? It may work better but the case wasn't designed to dissipate as much heat.

For Stax, the current amp they're working on does require new sinks / new chassis to fit in properly and dissipate the heat. 

The differences in feedback topologies between 717 and 727 are a matter of taste and a designer choice and there does not seem to be one better than the other. When I asked them if they would be keen on providing the user a switch (like was done with the latest kgsshv version), they said no way it would happen.

Arnaud


----------



## kevin gilmore

here is a lousy picture of my shorted out fuse
   
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dsc_0423.jpg
   
  edit: I found another unit, also a srm-xh with a different board
  that does not have the fuse or the protection diode.
  (PB201-08438-00210) much older
   
  if you have this one, and the led on the front panel lights up
  when you turn it on, then you are likely going to have to replace
  the ic (SG3524D or equivalent) and the 2 transistors 2sk940
  if the 2 led's on the circuit board do not light up.
   
   
  Without going into further details what birgir is going to do is remove the resistive plate loads
  and replace them with a T2 style current source. The overall power will remain roughly the same.
  Where the heat goes will not remain the same. But he is also going to change the power tubes to
  6s4's because with 4 tubes, this is an easy upgrade.
   
  the local/global feedback thing on the kgsshv is deliberately designed to be something you have to
  do with the power off. being able to change the feedback with the power on would be a VERY BAD
  thing for the headphones.


----------



## autoteleology

I was wondering why I couldn't find a fuse on the PCB. I thought the board used some kind of special fuse that looked different or something.

Well, if there's no fuse, is it possible to repair my Xh some other way? The thing still turns on, it just won't output anything.


----------



## DefQon

Sounds like a toast diode or transistor.
   
  One of the jfet's on my SRM1 was toast on the left side so I had no sound output on the left channel. Good luck with repairing the unit though.


----------



## autoteleology

Well, that really sucks. Geez... I was hoping to be able to fix it up and sell it. Is it worth anything at all in this condition? :/


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Well, that really sucks. Geez... I was hoping to be able to fix it up and sell it. Is it worth anything at all in this condition? :/


 
  Actually looking at my old Xh pictures, it could possibly be just a shorted jfet (semi round black semiconductors), jfets are more easily prone to shorting out from spikes or dc offsets than transistors itself.
   
  Here is a pic of my unit before re-cap (browse through my profile pictures for more pics)
   

   
  There are 4 jfets per channel as shown above. 
   
  It's worth repairing imo, the parts would be more easier to locate than the parts from my 30 + year old SRM1.


----------



## kevin gilmore

you first have to look at the 2 leds in the middle of the board. if both are off, you have
  a power supply problem. which you can fix with the 3524 and the 2 switching fets.
  if the led's are on, you have other trouble. (see edited post above)
  or (CAREFULLY) measure the voltages on the power supply caps.


----------



## autoteleology

My PCB looks exactly like yours. Assuming the problem is from DC power of incorrect polarity, what would I need to replace on the board?

On a side note, a big thanks to everyone who has been helpful so far. You've already given a whole lot more help than I could have expected.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> you first have to look at the 2 leds in the middle of the board. if both are off, you have
> a power supply problem. which you can fix with the 3524 and the 2 switching fets.
> if the led's are on, you have other trouble. (see edited post above)
> or (CAREFULLY) measure the voltages on the power supply caps.


 
  Good point on the leds as well, almost forgot about it. 2 red led's for each stage I'm assuming?


----------



## autoteleology

Power on my SRM-Xh is flowing, the LED on the front of the box is lit up, and the red LEDs on the inside are off. What do?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> you first have to look at the 2 leds in the middle of the board. if both are off, you have
> a power supply problem. which you can fix with the 3524 and the 2 switching fets.


 
  Good thing KG posted this.
   
  Since the culprit is with the PS, the PS stage is the mini trafo with 2 jfets and then you see a JRC 3524-D class semi.
   
  The two jfets are in series with a 16v 33uf cap.
   
  The TO-92 jfets part code are 2SK940 class 5C.
   
  Now I'm not too sure if you need to match the same class (different class different idss/vgs rating) for the switching jfets KG mentioned in the PS but it is very important to match jfets if it is in the signal path of the same class or closest one as it will be saturated, I learnt this the hard way for my SRM1 MK1 amp.
   
  The only supplier that I trust and that I know of that stocks the JRC 3524 D class is utsource (HK seller). Genuine stuff, Justin has purchased from them before. 
   
  Another one is you can get in touch with Steve at Ceitron electronics and he will source you a replacement.


----------



## kevin gilmore

actually they are mosfets and they are available at www.bdent.com for $3.53 each
   
  this will work for the switching controller
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SG3524N/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEXy65sthk2LbYbUgi0d6clgDzkn30fCI%3d
   
  B+ goes to the transformer, and to the cap, the fets switch each side of the transformer to ground driven by the switcher
  completely open loop.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> actually they are mosfets and they are available at www.bdent.com for $3.53 each
> 
> this will work for the switching controller
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SG3524N/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEXy65sthk2LbYbUgi0d6clgDzkn30fCI%3d
> ...


 
  Thanks for that KG, you learn something new everyday 
   
  Bdent is never too specific on discontinued parts. No info datasheet or anything on the parts I was looking for.


----------



## DefQon

Say is there any good modern day substitutes for the 2SC4631 2E3 that will offer a little more sonic improvement?


----------



## autoteleology

I am totally out of league when it comes to electronics. :eek:

Sorry guys, but I require a bit more hand-holding when it comes to the parts because I basically have no idea what I am doing. What exactly are the parts I need from bdent? Could you give me a link?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I am totally out of league when it comes to electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  You need two of these:
   
http://www.bdenterprisesinc.com/2sk940/
   
  And you need one of the 3524's KG linked available through mouser.
   
  And a DMM and a solder iron.


----------



## miceblue

Do electrostatic headphones benefit from "burn-in" as some people claim with dynamic drivers. "Burn-in" in this case meaning playing X noise/music/sounds for Y hours and they magically transform in sound quality.

I know they take some time to "charge-up," and if using a tube amp the tubes need to be "warmed-up."


Oh, also, is there a recommended way to clean the pleather earpads? At the moment I'm just using a tissue to wipe off any excessive oils on it.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Do electrostatic headphones benefit from "burn-in" as some people claim with dynamic drivers. "Burn-in" in this case meaning playing X noise/music/sounds for Y hours and they magically transform in sound quality.
> 
> I know they take some time to "charge-up," and if using a tube amp the tubes need to be "warmed-up."


 
  No. Burn-in has no benefit's to electrostat's other than weeding out faulty units during the manufacturing process, it is simply a charge up with both the amp and headphones that provides a subtle improvement to sound as it kicks into motion. Like starting up your car in a cold morning, you let it going for few minutes before driving off, beneficial for the performance of the car and the engine itself.


----------



## autoteleology

There's nothing much in mechanical terms to burn in on an electrostat, as far as I know. It's not as if you have to flex a piece of plastic or metal like you do in a dynamic setup.


----------



## EveTan

My 202s have finally returned to their former glory . If they keep this condition for more than a week. I will have successfully overcome the channel imbalance with the "play music" method. Well actually, I just set it to the side for a couple of days. When I plugged them back in after an hour-ish, it started the curing process.
   
  If things go well, I won't have to sell em .


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





evetan said:


> My 202s have finally returned to their former glory . If they keep this condition for more than a week. I will have successfully overcome the channel imbalance with the "play music" method. Well actually, I just set it to the side for a couple of days. When I plugged them back in after an hour-ish, it started the curing process.
> 
> If things go well, I won't have to sell em .


 
  Great news, glad what has been said to you worked.


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Micro Seiki, interesting.  I now remember seeing Micro Seiki electrostatic headphones being sold back then.  Interesting to learn that they were doing some OEM'ing.  Wealth of knowledge here on Head-Fi!


 

 NAD also did some electrostatics. Very similar to the Micro Seiki, and similar on sound to the Stax SR5's.


----------



## DefQon

I had those Nad 20's and they are much different sounding to my SR-5's.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





kevin gilmore said:


> mine is green, and the fuse has already been shorted out.
> *I don't recommend shorting out the fuse.*


 
  Geez, you're no fun....
   
  Seriously, though, you're absolutely right.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





squirec said:


> NAD also did some electrostatics. Very similar to the Micro Seiki, and similar on sound to the Stax SR5's.


 
   
  NAD, eh?  That's interesting.  When were these on the market?


----------



## DefQon

1980's. At least that's what I remember from the top of my head from reading the operating manual and brochure that came with my pair.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> From the interview we had with them last year, and reflecting Birgir's point all along, there's no magic bullet though: the size / weight are bound to go up if you want to increase the drive capability while ensuring stable operation.
> 
> I don't know the details on what Birgir plans to do to the 007t, but it seems along the line of pushing it further into class-A by increasing the idle current and the dissipated power at the same time? It may work better but the case wasn't designed to dissipate as much heat.
> 
> ...


 
   
  That is indeed the problem, cost goes up exponentially as the current models eek out as much sound per dollar as is possible.  Then there is the huge issue of there not being any good parts available any more.  There are no tubes available that bridge the gap between the ECC99 and the EL34 in this role and high voltage sand it getting very thin on the ground.


----------



## Elysian

Anyone know what the black tube amp is at the Stax area?
   
  http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/ofey_s/Mook-HeadFest/D1-65.jpg
  http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/ofey_s/Mook-HeadFest/D1-66.jpg
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/675508/pictorial-mook-headphone-festival-singapore#post_9678412


----------



## Radio_head

There's a 115 page thread on it here.  Don't have time to wade through it but I'm willing to bet someone talks about it.


----------



## Elysian

Just did a quick search through the thread and people are referring to it as Stax tube amp, but I'm not sure if they're referring to the Stax amps or the black one.


----------



## Radio_head

Well... it sort of looks like it says Stax in that sort of beige color on the right there, maybe its a proto...


----------



## arnaud

That looks like a Carry 300SEi... Certainly, I have never seen a Stax amp in my life with 1/4in plug


----------



## Elysian

Hmm, I wonder if it was overflow from the vendor to their left. The second shot has the Stax placard on top. Maybe it was put there by mistake.
   
  Unless the 300SEi can be used for just preamp functionality (behind one of the Stax amps), I'm not sure what relevance it would have for the Stax area.
   
  Maybe it's being used with some sort of Energizer/WEE device?  I would imagine Stax would prefer to use their own amps.


----------



## arnaud

Well, you'll certainly never see that here. Isn't the distributor also selling dynamic cans? Or as you say, use the carry as a preamp and defeated the volume control in the stax amps that accomodate this (like the 727).


----------



## rgs9200m

Gee, I see a pair of Rudi's Chromas in the photo. I actually have those.


----------



## arnaud

There's another close up pic in the thread, definitely a 300SEI, with beautiful color. I wonder there's a wee hidden behind driving the sr009, the cable seems to go that way...


----------



## autoteleology

What exactly are those huge blocks that stand up behind the tubes in a tube amp?


----------



## khaine1711

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> What exactly are those huge blocks that stand up behind the tubes in a tube amp?


 
  Transformers.


----------



## DefQon

Chokes/output transformers along those lines.


----------



## Chris J

khaine1711 said:


> Transformers.


Optimus Prime and friends.


----------



## arnaud

And that's where I'd like to know if a wee was used because, as little as I understand, you'd be using two transformers in a row that do the opposite (the one in the carry to drive low impedance resistive load and the one in the wee to drive high impedance capacitive load).

Seems like less than ideal combination from a purist point of view but then, people's impressions were utterly positive...


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





chris j said:


> Optimus Prime and friends.


 
  hahaha.


----------



## miceblue

So many random and ridiculous names and acronyms in this thread.
   
  I need a High Voltage Blue Wee Hawaii Kevin Gilmore Solid State Electrostatic Amplifier (read: HVBWHKGSSEA) to go with my cryo-treated O[bjective]2 Gamma SR-Lambda Nova Signature Pro Basic Limited Edition MKI earspeaker (read: O2G SR-LNSPBLE). That amp or the SRMKS-007127 MKV energiser.
   
  So confusing...
   
  I want to read some impressions of the new Rho earspeaker that STAX announced 2 weeks ago.


----------



## DefQon

It would be funny if those generated names end up being actual models from Stax in the future.


----------



## gefski

tus-chan said:


> What exactly are those huge blocks that stand up behind the tubes in a tube amp?




A power transformer for the amplifier, and left and right output transformer for each channel (between the output tubes and the left and right loudspeakers). Usually you choose speaker taps for low (4ohm) or high (8 ohm) nominal impedance speakers.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





arnaud said:


> There's another close up pic in the thread, definitely a 300SEI, with beautiful color. I wonder there's a wee hidden behind driving the sr009, the cable seems to go that way...


 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> And that's where I'd like to know if a wee was used because, as little as I understand, you'd be using two transformers in a row that do the opposite (the one in the carry to drive low impedance resistive load and the one in the wee to drive high impedance capacitive load).
> 
> Seems like less than ideal combination from a purist point of view but then, people's impressions were utterly positive...


 
   
  Hi Arnaud,
   
  That is why it should be preferred in this case an amplifier OTL (ie without output transformer) such as the Audiovalve RKV mk2 with Wee (using an adapter jack of the amplifier OTL -> input of HP Wee )
  The results are also listening to (subjectively) very good on the Stax SR 009. An original but rather surprising choice to listen.
   
  Eric


----------



## milosz

Stax  *Rho* earspeakers????  Say what?  Tell us more...


----------



## DairyProduce

I can't find anything on google about Stax Rho's...care to post a link?


----------



## grawk

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Stax  *Rho* earspeakers????  Say what?  Tell us more...


 
   
  Quote: 





dairyproduce said:


> I can't find anything on google about Stax Rho's...care to post a link?


 
   
  He was kidding.


----------



## Chris J

Hello,
  I have decided to create an *Entry Level Stax thread* in the _*Full Sized Headphones Forum.*_
  Remember your first pair of Stax?
  Remember the first time you heard a pair of Stax?
  Or any other electrostatic or electret headphones?
  Oh, yeah!
  My sincere hope with this new thread is that anyone who may be interested in upgrading from their mid level dynamics may decided to explore the Stax route as an alternative to upgrading from Beyer DT880 to Beyer T1, or upgrading from Grado SR-225i to RS-1i, etc. etc.
  While I do find this thread to be extremely useful, I find that SRS-2170, SRS-2020, etc discussions often get buried in the "I own Stax and want to upgrade the better Stax" discussions. I have no isssue with that, after all, this is the Summit-Fi Forum.
   
  My intentions with the thread linked below is to try and get more Head Fi-ers to get into the world of Stax.
  Personally, I was split between getting a better pair of dynamics or an SRS-2170 system. Obviously I went the Stax route and oh, man!
  Am I ever glad I decided to go the Stax route! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  In hindsight, a pair of HD-700 or RS-1i (for example) just wouldn't have cut it.
   
  Here's the link below if anyone wants to participate:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/676272/the-entry-level-stax-thread
   
  Thanks,
  Chris J


----------



## DefQon

I don't want more people getting into Stax because it will mean that I have to compete against more bidders on unobtainable Lambda's or other models.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I don't want more people getting into Stax because it will mean that I have to compete against more bidders on unobtainable Lambda's or other models.


 
   
You want to sentence them to a life of pain and suffering (and distorted peaky treble):​ listening to dynamic headphones?​


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





chris j said:


> You want to sentence them to a life of pain and suffering (and distorted peaky treble):​ listening to dynamic headphones?​


 
  Haha, I was listening to some dynamics last night for giggles and I noticed the onset of listening fatigue in a matter of minutes. I never get listening fatigue with my electrostats, even when I crank them louder..


----------



## DefQon

There are a handful bunch of dynamic headphones (when well powered) sound just as good or better than the basic Stax stuff.


----------



## DefQon

And the quoting system didn't work again. ***


----------



## spritzer

The SR-009 imbalance cases seem to be stacking up so something has to be done.  If somebody has a broken set that is out of warranty then I'd like to buy it to see what the hell is going on.  I'll post a WTB thread too. 
   
  Quote: 





arnaud said:


> And that's where I'd like to know if a wee was used because, as little as I understand, you'd be using two transformers in a row that do the opposite (the one in the carry to drive low impedance resistive load and the one in the wee to drive high impedance capacitive load).
> 
> Seems like less than ideal combination from a purist point of view but then, people's impressions were utterly positive...


 
   
  No way in hell Stax would allow them to use the Wee as it won't work properly and using non Stax amps clearly violates the warranty.  They've never actually used that to my knowledge to refuse service but using anything non Stax makes no sense. 
   
  This is all utterly besides the point of the 300SEI being one of the worst amps ever made.  Well that and using one of the best transducers in the world with something that outputs only a faint recollection of the input signal... 
   
  As for the whole transformers feeding a transformer, it makes little sense to step the voltage down by an order of about 20:1 to step it back up 1:30.  Now transformers can be very linear devices but that means expensive iron and low ratios are a must have.  We have neither here and then add to it the basic nature of electrostatics and their quirks and it's a match made in hell.  Same argument can be made for OTL tube amps too as they were designed to drive a certain load and a Stax transformer is not even close to that.


----------



## DefQon

Woah the Cary CAD 300SEI amp dates all the way back to 1995. Pretty old.


----------



## Chris J

Quote: 





defqon said:


> There are a handful bunch of dynamic headphones (when well powered) sound just as good or better than the basic Stax stuff.


 
   
  This is only my opinion, and it's only one example, but for what I spend on a pair of 600 Ohm Beyer DT880, plus La Figaro 336C OTL tube amp, plus numerous NOS tubes to really get it going...................I could have bought a Stax SRS-2170 and I would have been happier.
  I have a Q701.............maybe I just need a better amp for it.
  Oh well!


----------



## telecaster

Yeah, chasing that unicorn again. Get the Stats, they have clear advantages, but the dynamics has theirs too, the trebles are not one of them for sure!


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





defqon said:


> There are a handful bunch of dynamic headphones (when well powered) sound just as good or better than the basic Stax stuff.


 
  Good, sure, but what about as utterly _non-fatiguing_?
   
  Picking up a soldering kit today. Does anyone know what a noob has to do to get the volume pot on my SRM-T1 working again? Previous owner replaced the RCAs and ran them straight through the amp fixed-level (decoupling the volume pot in the process). I have no electrical experience but I'd like to take a stab. I don't know how to read the schematics so my best guess was to make the insides look like a normal one.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   

  Don't really need the volume control as much as I need the balance control, but I guess they come together. Digital compensation is crap.


----------



## eric65

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> The SR-009 imbalance cases seem to be stacking up so something has to be done.  If somebody has a broken set that is out of warranty then I'd like to buy it to see what the hell is going on.  I'll post a WTB thread too.
> 
> 
> No way in hell Stax would allow them to use the Wee as it won't work properly and using non Stax amps clearly violates the warranty.  They've never actually used that to my knowledge to refuse service but using anything non Stax makes no sense.
> ...


 
   
  Hello spritzer,
   
  So why the amplifier OTL Audiovalve RKV mark 2 is even better to listen (with SR 009) when coupled with the Wee without Impedancer than if it is use with ?
   
  See the skywalkerciel listening report to this link (in French) and the photos of the system (RKV + Wee without impedancer, and the stax SRM 727 amplifier)
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/casques-haute-fidelite/club-des-heureux-proprietaires-de-casques-stax-t29819561-3675.html


----------



## SquireC

Quote: 





defqon said:


> 1980's. At least that's what I remember from the top of my head from reading the operating manual and brochure that came with my pair.


 

 Yes, early 80's. They were popular - a relatively cheap way into electrostatic headphones - much better than most dynamic phones on the market at the time. I thought they sounded similar to the SR5's but I bow to your better memory DefQon.


----------



## M-13

Quote: 





defqon said:


> I don't want more people getting into Stax because it will mean that I have to compete against more bidders on unobtainable Lambda's or other models.


 
  LMAO!


----------



## n3rdling

3X0 don't forget to unplug the amp and check/drain the power supply caps as needed.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





n3rdling said:


> 3X0 don't forget to unplug the amp and check/drain the power supply caps as needed.


 
  Or just don't and take it to a more knowledgeable person to have them fix it for you...just sayin'


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





grawk said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yeah I was making fun of the ridiculous names and acronyms in this thread. XD


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Yeah I was making fun of the ridiculous names and acronyms in this thread. XD


 
   
  Poe's law in a nutshell...


----------



## arnaud

spritzer said:


> No way in hell Stax would allow them to use the Wee as it won't work properly and using non Stax amps clearly violates the warranty.  They've never actually used that to my knowledge to refuse service but using anything non Stax makes no sense.




Oups! Turns out a wee was used with the 300 SEI (was confirmed in the festival report thread as I asked the question there).

The intriguing bit is that the impressions posted on the 009 in that thread are very very positive. Granted, it may have been first experience with the 009 so there's the shiny new toy effect. But, maybe using these two trans in a row alters the phones response in a pleasing way? I see your point about the waste of potential, but you're first to say there's something wrong with the 009, so why not after all?

The 2 trans thing sounds a bit absurd, but Eric seems to get excellent results with the otl amp driving the wee. I guess it's one of those things I need to hear for myself.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Woah the Cary CAD 300SEI amp dates all the way back to 1995. Pretty old.


 
   
  True but the real issue is the circuit, the parts and how it is built.  Look up the internal pics... 
   
  Take box, parts, some glue and shake until ready. 
   
  Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Good, sure, but what about as utterly _non-fatiguing_?
> 
> Picking up a soldering kit today. Does anyone know what a noob has to do to get the volume pot on my SRM-T1 working again? Previous owner replaced the RCAs and ran them straight through the amp fixed-level (decoupling the volume pot in the process). I have no electrical experience but I'd like to take a stab. I don't know how to read the schematics so my best guess was to make the insides look like a normal one.
> 
> ...


 
   
  First job, google "Alps RK27 wiring" to see which wire goes where.  Then take the center pin from each of the RCA's to the pots in, the out goes to the pcb and then run a ground wire (one or two, doesn't matter) from the RCA ground (the shell) to the pots ground and then onto the pcb.  Blue looks to be ground in the pic but it's too small to make it out. 
   
  Quote: 





eric65 said:


> Hello spritzer,
> 
> So why the amplifier OTL Audiovalve RKV mark 2 is even better to listen (with SR 009) when coupled with the Wee without Impedancer than if it is use with ?
> 
> ...


 
   
  What on earth has the position of a volume knob got to do with anything?  That's just gain and says nothing about pretty much anything.  That said the 727 has the lowest gain of all Stax amps by a nice margin since they have some noise issues with the circuit.


----------



## grawk

Meet impressions generally follow consensus, because its really hard to listen critically ate meet, and most people follow the herd.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Good, sure, but what about as utterly _non-fatiguing_?


 
  HD600/650/580's are not fatiguing at all. At least for me that is.
   
  Quote: 





squirec said:


> Yes, early 80's. They were popular - a relatively cheap way into electrostatic headphones - much better than most dynamic phones on the market at the time. I thought they sounded similar to the SR5's but I bow to your better memory DefQon.


 
  It could be due to the way my SR-5 are amplified atm. Never heard the SR-5 through the original SRD-6 energizers onto an integrated amplifier. 
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> True but the real issue is the circuit, the parts and how it is built.  Look up the internal pics...
> 
> Take box, parts, some glue and shake until ready.


 
  I can see where you're going with this. Googled it and seems there has been numerous revisions to the circuitry since it's release back in the near mid 90's, mixed reviews for the earlier models, background hum/no internal ground problems, pretty messy and cramped p2p build (looks like Mikhail's ES-1 rats-nest you fixed up from afrikane), multiple versions that take either 6SN/L7 driver tubes, headphone out performance is mediocre, works only great with extremely high efficient speakers, extremely poor measurements.  Later revisions supposedly pretty good sounding.
   
  Kind of not surprised since there is a lot of expensive crap out there in the market.


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





grawk said:


> Meet impressions generally follow consensus, because its really hard to listen critically ate meet, and most people follow the herd.


 
  It's not only in meets but just about everywhere. They are called the Passives. They are the big majority of the crowd. They are kind of bad being slightly unproductive. But the Zelotes are as much as bad, being overly followers too.


----------



## EveTan

The only Stax setup that stood out in meet settings was the 009 with BHSE. Cavalli Audio was showcasing another one... forgot what it was called. But it sounded good too. 
   
  Everything else kinda got blended into the "it sounds the same in this environment" category. 
   
  Needless to say, I want a SR-009. Experienced a slice of sublime  today .


----------



## Chris J

telecaster said:


> It's not only in meets but just about everywhere. They are called the Passives. They are the big majority of the crowd. They are kind of bad being slightly unproductive. But the Zelotes are as much as bad, being overly followers too.




The Zealots.............save us from the argumentative, opinionated, thread killing, pushy zealots...........please!:mad:


----------



## telecaster

Quote: 





chris j said:


> The Zealots.............save us from the argumentative, opinionated, thread killing, pushy zealots...........please!


 
  They're not, the zealots are those who blindly follow their leader. You say white, they say white without even thinking. They are like the passive in that they are stupidly following, but then they are over positive about their leader.
   
  There are other camps as well, they are the opponents, the concertatives, the hésitants or the revolted, we don't have the same books.


----------



## DefQon

You mean audiophools or those subjectively biased to a degree of not even being funny
   
  "Oh I replaced 1cm of wiring between points A and B in the circuit, it is night and day differently better now, I can hear better staging and timbre of musical pieces"
   
  "Oh I think everyone who is getting into electrostatic headphones should burn it in at least 2000 hours"
   
  "Oh a new headphone just came out and it is the newest and most expensive, it is automatically the best headphone because newer is better"
   
  "Oh look this amplifier provides X amount of currents into X amount of ohms with less than X amount of THD distortion, it is automatically the best amplifier because moar is better"
   
  "Oh these headphones are so good (10 minute audition) I can hear so much detail, I swear I just heard the pianist in the piece fart and a mosquito flew by".
   
  "Oh I need 10 pairs of headphones so I can show off how much of an elite I am on head-fi post your setup thread because it's uuber cool (in reality only listens to 1 headphone)".


----------



## tdogzthmn

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You mean audiophools or those subjectively biased to a degree of not even being funny
> 
> "Oh I replaced 1cm of wiring between points A and B in the circuit, it is night and day differently better now, I can hear better staging and timbre of musical pieces"
> 
> ...


 
   
  Does it count if you hear yourself fart while listening to open cans?


----------



## miceblue

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You mean audiophools or those subjectively biased to a degree of not even being funny
> 
> "Oh I replaced 1cm of wiring between points A and B in the circuit, it is night and day differently better now, I can hear better staging and timbre of musical pieces"
> 
> ...


 
  Who's the person collecting STAX headphones again?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tdogzthmn said:


> Does it count if you hear yourself fart while listening to open cans?


 
  No. lol
  Quote: 





miceblue said:


> Who's the person collecting STAX headphones again?


 
  I only have 2 Stax headphones now. The SR-5 and Gamma Pro, sold the rest. Even when I did have it, I listened to all of them.


----------



## DairyProduce

Quote: 





defqon said:


> You mean audiophools or those subjectively biased to a degree of not even being funny
> 
> "Oh I replaced 1cm of wiring between points A and B in the circuit, it is night and day differently better now, I can hear better staging and timbre of musical pieces"
> 
> ...


 
  To be fair I'd be pretty impressed as well, if I could hear a mosquito fly by in the recording


----------



## autoteleology

I got screwed by eBay on the Lambda Sig that was up for sale. Bid $375 but the system didn't take it for whatever reason, and it sold for $370.


----------



## DefQon

Rick rolled.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I got screwed by eBay on the Lambda Sig that was up for sale. Bid $375 but the system didn't take it for whatever reason, and it sold for $370.


 
   
  Since when does kuboten sell stuff on ebay?
   
  Anyway I dont think it would have been going up by lots of $10 at that price... did you try to bid when there was only 1 second left? If so that might be your problem


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Since when does kuboten sell stuff on ebay?
> 
> Anyway I dont think it would have been going up by lots of $10 at that price... did you try to bid when there was only 1 second left? If so that might be your problem


 
  That PP amp that his selling would've been mine if he hadn't messed up the best offer entry into the system for my 323S, he said that he will start off-loading unwanted stuff on ebay soon. Guess that soon turned out 1 month later.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> That PP amp that his selling would've been mine if he hadn't messed up the best offer entry into the system for my 323S, he said that he will start off-loading unwanted stuff on ebay soon. Guess that soon turned out 1 month later.


 
   
  Huh? So bought that PP amp through craig but didnt want it anymore so that's why he's selling it? 
   
  Also, have you sold off most of your Stax to save up for the abyss?


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





jjinh said:


> Huh? So bought that PP amp through craig but didnt want it anymore so that's why he's selling it?
> 
> Also, have you sold off most of your Stax to save up for the abyss?


 
  Here's a run down with how proxy services work with Yahoo Japan auctions. You bid on an item, you win it, Craig pays for it straight away as this is the way Yahoo Japan Auctions work unlike ebay where you can delay payment. Since the PP amp was a mistake made on his behalf (delay in the system), he said that he will start off loading stuff on ebay again soon as he can still re-coup his funds he paid for the amp, since I already won the 323S.
   
  And no, I'd think twice before I drop any money on that overpriced piece of crap, moving back to speakers as my main listening rig, keeping a few headphones to keep me company when I can't listen to speakers.


----------



## gefski

tus-chan said:


> I got screwed by eBay on the Lambda Sig that was up for sale. Bid $375 but the system didn't take it for whatever reason, and it sold for $370.




I've used eSnipe for stuff I want on eBay for years and love it. It bids to the next $ increment at 6 seconds. You just enter the maximum you're willing to pay and it does everything.


----------



## Solshock

Howdy everyone. I just picked up a vintage pair of stax sr5 with an srd-6 transformer. Unfortunately due to budget constraints I have to use my cheap lepai speaker amplifier. I've been noticing some hiccups that I'm hoping you all can help me with. 

I've been having some channel imbalance issues that seem to be tied to the amplifier if I'm not mistaken. When switching the transformer from headphones to speakers and back I get some significant imbalance that seems to be instantly corrected after cranking up the volume on the lepai amplifier. The quieter channel always seems to be random. 

I'm also getting some rattling in one of the channels when playing low frequencies, I'm not sure I can do anything about this one or if it's due to a stuck hair or something. These headphones are a few decades old after all. 

Lastly, I seem to be getting some crunchy distortion in the other non rattling channel which happens in the treble range. Changing channels software side still didn't fix the issue, so this is likely hardware related. I can't tell if it's the amplifier, the old speaker cable, the transformer or a deformity in the driver. It could be dust, hair, or dirt perhaps. Can anyone shed some light here? This is a great pair of cans I'm so close to enjoying.


----------



## duncan1

I am sure Spritzer can answer you.But I had a look on the web for your amp and yes its not exactly top hi-fi. but it should still work if it is the 20W  RMS model. My old Stax SB transformers require around 10W RMS to function properly. The switch on the front can go faulty[not often]  what I did was hard wire it direct to the internal connections By that I mean I bypassed it.. And as you bought it second hand check the internal components for signs of overload . Measure resistor values. I changed them for higher quality. Remember we are talking about equipment  30 odd years old.I am sure somebody will give you better advice.


----------



## SBranson

So what's the "definitive" answer to the question of the best Stax amp for the O2mk1s?
  From what I gather it's this order? :
  1. modded 727
  2. 717
  3. 727ii
  4. 007tii
  5. 323S
   
   
  On another note, I am going to pick up a SR80/SRD4 tonight assuming they are in the condition stated.  Local sale and seems a good deal for $75.
  The seller says this though:
  "there is an imbalance on startup that disappears once the unit is warmed up"
  Is that common?


----------



## reiserFS

Who's going to buy this at that price? http://www.ebay.de/itm/STAX-LAMBDA-PROFESSIONAL-HEADPHONE-DRIVER-UNIT-PLUS-EQUALIZER-COMPLETE-UNIT-/190884084120?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2c7193f998


----------



## duncan1

SBranson .You might be addressing your post to Spritzer But in my opinion you have got the list right.But there again I am biased as I have done some major mods to the 727-11 and I also own -007 MK1s .Definitely not    tube amps. While the 007tii is more "open " than the 006. Its still not the right one for an 007 MK1. On the question of the   SR80/SRD4. its certainly a bargain[if the fault can be fixed] A German website has the same pair for 230 euros . Alright when it warms up sounds like a HR joint. But Spritzer will give you better help.


----------



## K_19

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> So what's the "definitive" answer to the question of the best Stax amp for the O2mk1s?
> From what I gather it's this order? :
> 1. modded 727
> 2. 717
> ...


 
   
  I've tried the 2, 3, and 5 on that list, and 717 was the definitely the best out of the three. 727 was simply too bloated down low and muted up top for the MK1's from my experience, and 323S I felt was bit lifeless with it though it gave it plenty of volume.  I know the tube hybrid 007's are often not recommended for it due to MK1's higher voltage requirements, so I'd think that the modded 727 and the 717 would be the best option.


----------



## rubenpp

There's also the modded 007T/ II /  done by Spritzer and later Justin at Headamp w/c reportedly does a good or better job of driving the O2 Mk1s.
   
http://www.head-fi.org/t/439657/headamp-blue-hawaii-special-edition/2175#post_8545919


----------



## SBranson

Thanks for the replies.  Duncan, I read your modding thread but it's way beyond me.  I get nervous biasing tubes.
   
  I didn't even know about the modded 007tii.  Well, I'm not really comfortable modding so I think I should keep an eye out for a 717 that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.


----------



## duncan1

I have a 717 as well and yes it would be a good choice for the 007MK1 . I think very highly of them no they are not as "open" as the 009s but to me the 009s are too open what you gain in detail--IMO  is lost when it comes to musicality the 007s present-to me-a more cohesive music presentation more "body" more fuller and you get a more realistic reproduction as if you were in a concert hall and you can ramp up the volume without hearing any limiting or distortion.. The 009s sound like you are on stage with the group/singer/etc plenty of detail but not brought together enough. In any case my mods to the 727-11 change the reproduced music completely a lot more open and detailed so I certainly don't need even louder detail. I have seen many 717s for sale here on   Head-Fi  and you have a bigger number of people listening on Headphones in the US and Canada so more chance of a bargain. Head-Fi is the biggest headphone website in the World and is near the top among 4 other contenders for the Hi-fi  top website in the World. I have not checked them all but so far its certainly at NO1. No wonder so many advertisers want to advertise on it.


----------



## DefQon

The 727 according to KG can be modded to retain the same output stage as the KGSSHV by doing the feedback and few other mods you can consult with KG.
   
  There is one user here who has done it to there SRM-727.


----------



## rawrster

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> I have a 717 as well and yes it would be a good choice for the 007MK1 . I think very highly of them no they are not as "open" as the 009s but to me the 009s are too open what you gain in detail--IMO  is lost when it comes to musicality the 007s present-to me-a more cohesive music presentation more "body" more fuller and you get a more realistic reproduction as if you were in a concert hall and you can ramp up the volume without hearing any limiting or distortion.. The 009s sound like you are on stage with the group/singer/etc plenty of detail but not brought together enough. In any case my mods to the 727-11 change the reproduced music completely a lot more open and detailed so I certainly don't need even louder detail. I have seen many 717s for sale here on   Head-Fi  and you have a bigger number of people listening on Headphones in the US and Canada so more chance of a bargain. Head-Fi is the biggest headphone website in the World and is near the top among 4 other contenders for the Hi-fi  top website in the World. I have not checked them all but so far its certainly at NO1. No wonder so many advertisers want to advertise on it.


 
   
  I've seen a couple of 717's recently. The FS is where I got my 717 as well as my O2 MK1 and they definitely pair well together. If someone can find a good price for both it certainly will be good value buy considering people pay more for inferior dynamic setups imo of course.


----------



## steve2151

Another satisfied SR007MKI owner here. While I, like half the Stax forum with no DIY skills, would like to get ahold of a KGSSHV, I'm quite pleased with my SR007MKI and recapped SRM1/MK2.
   
  Is it worth getting a SRM727 or SRM717 as an interim upgrade, or should I hold out? Anyone want to estimate where the SRM1/MK2 falls in the hierarchy of Stax made amps?
   
  Also, any opinions on the portable Stax in ears and how they stack up to the full size stuff? I was thinking of getting a set for office use. I've read Mike's opinion over at Headfonia and he thinks it has great clarity, but is hit hard by soundstage size and frequency response limitations.


----------



## SBranson

Well, the SR-84 package was too good to be true at $75.  The channel imbalance was pretty bad and didn't seem to get any better by "warming up" as he mentioned.
  He did offer it to me for $50 if I wanted to take it as a fix-up project... tempting.


----------



## livewire

Listening to PF WYWH via FLAC > ODAC > STAX SRM-252S > SR-407. Mid-Fi don't get much better than this.


----------



## DefQon

SR-80 uses same electret transducer as SR-30 just different dampening and housing grill used. If you want to really fix it, get a beat-up pair of SR-30's for cheap and swap the drivers out.
   
  Seem's the seller lied to you as well, electret's work in a similar way to electrostats but the difference is electret's are fully and have a fixed charge and once they lose there charge it is impossible to fix it (that I know of) or charge it back to normal, this results in channel imbalance. Channel imbalance with electrostat's are a different story and has many variables come into play, spritzer or any other experienced users can fill you in with that.


----------



## SBranson

Quote:  





> Seem's the seller lied to you as well, electret's work in a similar way to electrostats but the difference is electret's are fully and have a fixed charge and once they lose there charge it is impossible to fix it (that I know of) or charge it back to normal, this results in channel imbalance. Channel imbalance with electrostat's are a different story and has many variables come into play, spritzer or any other experienced users can fill you in with that.


 
   
   
   
  The guy selling them knew less than I do about these, but neither of us knew that. (or he was very good at playing dumb).
   
  He was getting by with adjusting the balance on his amp.   He did basically lie about them though by not mentioning the imbalance and suggesting that they get better after warming up.


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Here's a run down with how proxy services work with Yahoo Japan auctions. You bid on an item, you win it, Craig pays for it straight away as this is the way Yahoo Japan Auctions work unlike ebay where you can delay payment. Since the PP amp was a mistake made on his behalf (delay in the system), he said that he will start off loading stuff on ebay again soon as he can still re-coup his funds he paid for the amp, since I already won the 323S.


 
   
  So he made a mistake, that explains it.
   
  I know how proxies work, I also think there are better proxies for Yahoo Japan.
   
   Quote:


reiserfs said:


> Who's going to buy this at that price? http://www.ebay.de/itm/STAX-LAMBDA-PROFESSIONAL-HEADPHONE-DRIVER-UNIT-PLUS-EQUALIZER-COMPLETE-UNIT-/190884084120?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2c7193f998


 
   
  A bit expensive, but it does come with the ED-1


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





sbranson said:


>


 
  Yeah seems like he just lied to you so he offload the problem to you and expect you're dumb enough to believe the charge up cancels out imbalance issue. Since the SRD-4 adaptor hooks up directly to a integrated amp, you can use balance controls if it has one.
   
  Quote: 





jjinh said:


> So he made a mistake, that explains it.
> 
> I know how proxies work, I also think there are better proxies for Yahoo Japan.


 
  Yes indeed there are, with better fees and faster shipping time to boot.


----------



## autoteleology

I wish they'd just sell the ED-1 separate. As far as I've observed, they are virtually unobtainium nowadays. Nobody wants to let go of them


----------



## jjinh

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I wish they'd just sell the ED-1 separate. As far as I've observed, they are virtually unobtainium nowadays. Nobody wants to let go of them


 
   
  you could always buy that kit and sell the stuff you dont want


----------



## autoteleology

> You could always buy that kit and sell the stuff you don't want _at a huge loss_.


 
   
  Fixed.


----------



## ultimanium

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Yes indeed there are, with better fees and faster shipping time to boot.


 
  What would you advise for a proxy service? I've just used kuboten for a while, but been wondering if there's a better option.


----------



## DefQon

One of the other guys bought there stuff through buyee. I used it for 1 item and I can recommend it.


----------



## milosz

Rho earspeakers?  What?
   
  Quote:


grawk said:


> He was kidding.


 
   
   
  -DOH!  
   
  Too subtle for me, I'm afraid.


----------



## ultimanium

Quote: 





defqon said:


> One of the other guys bought there stuff through buyee. I used it for 1 item and I can recommend it.


 
  Alright, thanks, I might give it a go.


----------



## jaycalgary

There was the ED-1 version for the Signature for sale here a while back. That is the one I would have wanted and should have bought. It didn't sell very quickly believe it or not and was under $500. I think they get used as a novelty and pretty much just for collecting. If anything that Smyth Realiser would be the way to go.


----------



## rgs9200m

disregard


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





steve2151 said:


> Another satisfied SR007MKI owner here. While I, like half the Stax forum with no DIY skills, would like to get ahold of a KGSSHV, I'm quite pleased with my SR007MKI and recapped SRM1/MK2.
> 
> Is it worth getting a SRM727 or SRM717 as an interim upgrade, or should I hold out? Anyone want to estimate where the SRM1/MK2 falls in the hierarchy of Stax made amps?
> 
> Also, any opinions on the portable Stax in ears and how they stack up to the full size stuff? I was thinking of getting a set for office use. I've read Mike's opinion over at Headfonia and he thinks it has great clarity, but is hit hard by soundstage size and frequency response limitations.


 
   
  I'd suggest you wait unless the SRM1/MK2 fails.
   
  While I can't be certain, I do know that there's a group buy ongoing for some electrostatic amps now. Some folks may not want to keep two amps when they are finished with their new builds. If you wait, you may just be lucky to get a second hand KGSSHV in a couple of months. I know I'll be keeping the one I like most between the Megatron and KGSSHV when I get the Megatron working *fingers crossed*
   
  As much as I would like to keep both of them I don't really have the space. Maybe my significant other won't notice there're more things? - is that even possible?


----------



## RiStaR

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Well, the SR-84 package was too good to be true at $75.  The channel imbalance was pretty bad and didn't seem to get any better by "warming up" as he mentioned.
> He did offer it to me for $50 if I wanted to take it as a fix-up project... tempting.


 
   
  I'd have taken it at $50


----------



## MLudovic

For Lambda and SR-5 users : http://www.head-fi.org/t/675545/stax-ed-1-and-ed-5-eqs-emulation#post_9679102


----------



## davidsh

What about the sig


----------



## MLudovic

Show me the schematic I'll give you the curve !


----------



## davidsh

Stax must have it somewhere? Or maybe not... Like your initiative


----------



## jaycalgary

Nice way to save $500 or so. I'm sure it won't sound as good as having the box but probably wouldn't be using either for very long anyway. I think I will eventually try this to see what it is like though.


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





mludovic said:


> Show me the schematic I'll give you the curve !


 
   
  Same schematic, just different adjustments.  Haven't checked the thread but are you factoring in the adjustment needed for each unit before it shipped out the door?
   
  This is the simple reason why our fully balanced take on the ED-1 was never finalized.  Only a handful of people could have built it properly...


----------



## MLudovic

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Nice way to save $500 or so. I'm sure it won't sound as good as having the box but probably wouldn't be using either for very long anyway. I think I will eventually try this to see what it is like though.


 
   
  Actually it could even sound better than the box since it faithfully reproduces the EQ curve without the distortions added by the opamps and capacitors. Convolution is a very powerful tool when it comes to audio filtering and modulation, you can even recreate the exact sound of a room with it.
   
  Quote: 





spritzer said:


> Same schematic, just different adjustments.  Haven't checked the thread but are you factoring in the adjustment needed for each unit before it shipped out the door?
> 
> This is the simple reason why our fully balanced take on the ED-1 was never finalized.  Only a handful of people could have built it properly...


 
   
  On my first simulation run I let all the trimpots on middle position, which gave me a very different curve than this one :




   
  I later managed to match it very closely by tweaking the trimpots values. On the Gilmore schematics the adjustements are also set differently, with values even greater than the maximum allowed on the original model.
   
  Any info to share on the ED-1 Signature curve ?


----------



## LCfiner

So a little while ago I posted that I bought a Lambda signature and SRM 212 combo off ebay. I was wondering how the thing would sound with the small amp.
   
  I got it today. It sounds excellent. Really great sound. This is not my first time using a stax setup (I’ve had a 407 and T1-S plus a 007mk1 with GES, 323S and 007t) The old Lambda sig with the tiny 212 amp sounds very nice and reminds me of the more expensive 407 and T1-S setup.
   
  No, it does not have the bass impact of the Omega2 (or 407) but it has deep extension and very clean, nuanced bass. It’s so well reproduced that I can bump up the bass frequencies 3 or 4 dB with some EQ and I can get a bit of that thump I like with no audible distortion (to my ears, anyway). I’m comparing it to the HE-500 I have beside me too (Audio GD NFB 10ES2 is the DAC for both and HE500 amp) and while the Lambda bass does not have the same impact, it’s very fast and, in some cases, sounds more textured and subtle.
   
  The overall sound is a bit tilted to the upper mids and lower treble. It’s a lighter sound than the HE-500, but that one is tilted warm a bit. The Lambda sounds more airy and open. The nice thing with the Lambda sig is that even though it has that focus on upper mids and treble, it’s not excessively sibilant or shouty. My go-to test tracks for midrange glare don’t hurt my ears and songs with sibilance don’t exhibit overly harsh exaggeration of those frequencies. It doesn’t soften them or smooth them over but it doesn’t make them worse. This is something I expected (the even response with no glare) and am glad that the sound isn’t overly bright or harsh to my ears.
   
  Soundstage is nice and wide. Reminds me of my memories of the 407 and Omega2. Open, good separation, three dimensional and relatively wide and deep but not “back of the theatre”  wide like the HD800. It sounds more airy and a bit wider than the HE-500.
   
  Overall, I’m quite happy with the performance of the Lambda sig even on the little SRM 212 amp. I’m sure it can get better but as I’m still not sure if I’ll keep this little Stax rig or keep the HE-500, I’m not looking for a new amp yet.
   
  But I will say that I expected to get the stax setup, listen for it a bit and then put it away or get a sale up quickly. But the more I listen to it - and the more I enjoy the sound and the light weight of the lambdas on my head compared to the massive HE500 - the more I think I might keep it. hmmm. back down the Stax rabbit hole?


----------



## dukeskd

^You just mentioned all the reasons why I like the Sigs. However, I am not sure if this because of the amp I am pairing them with (727), I do not find the bass lacking at all and the impact is actually very good. As you said, the upper frequency range is absolutely excellent, better than a whole lot of dynamic cans.


----------



## jaycalgary

Signatures are more open sounding than even the 009's I think. Briefly listened to the 009's, Sr-x pros and the Lambda Signatures the other day and that was the first impression of them i had. Wide open.


----------



## SBranson

I really regret selling my Lambda Signatures.  They didn't do everything well but what they did do well made them a pure joy to listen with.


----------



## reiserFS

I'm still on the hunt for a reasonably priced basic system for my desktop / bedside rig, wish I didn't sell my SRM-212 years ago.


----------



## eareo

Hi,
   
  I have been enjoying my 007MKIIs for some months now.  As a frequent visitor to Ebay  I see older Stax for sale frequently.  What would be a good pickup as a compliment to the 007's?


----------



## NoPants

you guys are too aggressive about ebay, I'm glad I don't have to shop there anymore for stax


----------



## EveTan

I've come back to offer another solution for channel imbalance.
   
  I put the headphone on my head.
  Wacked the side with channel imbalance.
  Magic.
   
   
  So far's been working for 24 hrs. Hopefully it can last the week before going back.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





lcfiner said:


> So a little while ago I posted that I bought a Lambda signature and SRM 212 combo off ebay. I was wondering how the thing would sound with the small amp.


 
   
  also my experience the Lambda Signature sounds very good with the little SRM-212 amp and for this price is this a incredible combo.


----------



## NoPants

btw there's the oldest version of the o2 mk1 on sale from some UK person, that 2.2k asking price though


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





nemomec said:


> also my experience the Lambda Signature sounds very good with the little SRM-212 amp and for this price is this a incredible combo.


 
  Curious. Why did you sell your Lambda Signature but not your Pro?


----------



## dukeskd

Any of the vintage Lambdas. Even the SR-5 is an excellent complement to the 007.


----------



## nemomec

Quote: 





evetan said:


> Curious. Why did you sell your Lambda Signature but not your Pro?


 
   
  Both headphones makes no sense for me they are very similar and the pro looks a little bit nicer with his black colour


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





nopants said:


> you guys are too aggressive about ebay, I'm glad I don't have to shop there anymore for stax


 
  Ebay is where it's at.
   
  Quote: 





evetan said:


> I've come back to offer another solution for channel imbalance.
> 
> I put the headphone on my head.
> Wacked the side with channel imbalance.
> ...


 
  I did that once, the transducer fell off from the baffle.


----------



## DairyProduce

Quote: 





nopants said:


> btw there's the oldest version of the o2 mk1 on sale from some UK person, that 2.2k asking price though


 
  I have a feeling that 2.2k is asking for too much.. 
   
  Sometimes after hunting for discontinued headphones, I kinda just feel like buying the newer version.


----------



## DefQon

$1.6-2k is where it's at for a used Mk1 in good condition with the original accessories/box.


----------



## DairyProduce

Isn't the mk2 with the mod essentially the same as the mk1?


----------



## dukeskd

^No, because drivers are different.


----------



## DairyProduce

Oh..thanks for clarifying duke!


----------



## shipsupt

If you're in the UK you'll spend $50 to ship and then 20% to get them through customs.  If you figure a good pair for $1750, add that on and you're at $2100.
   
  That listing has free shipping, so it's not that far off the mark.
   
   
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> $1.6-2k is where it's at for a used Mk1 in good condition with the original accessories/box.


----------



## Argybargy

eareo said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have been enjoying my 007MKIIs for some months now.  As a frequent visitor to Ebay  I see older Stax for sale frequently.  What would be a good pickup as a compliment to the 007's?




Srx mk3- a very underrated phone and still cheap. Sounds superb on my srm-007t.


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





yawg said:


> I didn't question your hearing ability. Did you ever listen to a good tubed DAC?


 
  If transparency is the objective, very few tubed DACs are worth mentioning.


----------



## duncan1

I have to agree with-3XO- tubes are there to take off a "perceived hardness " of SS and in doing so they round off the extreme ends of the music. Tubes by default cannot go down to the minute levels that SS can. But that is the "beauty of them" I don't own any tube equipment as I would rather buy a very well designed  piece of SS HI-Fi  that does NOT sound "hard" a lot dearer yes but you get the minute detail in the music that tubes cant reach.And not done by the vogue that's in the UK of "copying" tube "sound" by fitting tubes somewhere in the chain to soften it. Don't you realize that any SS amp or otherwise that sounds hard/edgy etc is NOT well designed. People pay many $10000 for this high quality . but you can design and build your own for a fraction of that.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Well, after a couple of days with Canada Customs, my KGSSHV cleared today....should have it by tomorrow (Friday latest). Looks like its gonna be a fun weekend!


 
  Probably the guys at Customs were gushing over it and didn't want to let it go.
   
  As Bono says on the Live from Slane Castle DVD about their first single Out of Control, 'We Hope You Like It...".


----------



## Solshock

Quote: 





solshock said:


> Howdy everyone. I just picked up a vintage pair of stax sr5 with an srd-6 transformer. Unfortunately due to budget constraints I have to use my cheap lepai speaker amplifier. I've been noticing some hiccups that I'm hoping you all can help me with.
> 
> I've been having some channel imbalance issues that seem to be tied to the amplifier if I'm not mistaken. When switching the transformer from headphones to speakers and back I get some significant imbalance that seems to be instantly corrected after cranking up the volume on the lepai amplifier. The quieter channel always seems to be random.
> 
> ...


 

 Does anyone know what may be at play here? I just picked up a replacement Lepai amplifier and the problem seems to remain. Can dust cause snowy, slightly crackly distortion in one channel? It seems to be uneven or inconsistent, but it's always in the same channel.


----------



## davidsh

All this capacitor talk makes me worried. Guess I could recap it sometime in the coming years 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I think I will get more pleasure from doing so by then when I have lived with my T1 for a year or two, as the whole setup sounds pretty darn good per se.. (it ain't going nowhere 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## shipsupt

You've got a lot of issues going on there.  They all sound more likely related to the headphones, not the amplifier.
  Quote: 





solshock said:


> Does anyone know what may be at play here? I just picked up a replacement Lepai amplifier and the problem seems to remain. Can dust cause snowy, slightly crackly distortion in one channel? It seems to be uneven or inconsistent, but it's always in the same channel.


----------



## schorsch

The talking about The Sigmas has ended behause everybody who Linde them grabbed everybody Sigma ob The market. They are dar away from bring perfect - but they are Perfect for ME

Retardation Georg


----------



## dukeskd

^A better attempt at translation is required, schorsch.


----------



## shipsupt

I'll take a stab at it! 
   
_Talk about Sigmas has ended because everybody who liked them grabbed every Sigma on the market. They are far from bring perfect - but they are perfect for me._
   
  Just guessing of course!


----------



## Chris J

tus-chan said:


> This. Have a little tolerance and respect for other people.



 
 +1


----------



## Solshock

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> You've got a lot of issues going on there.  They all sound more likely related to the headphones, not the amplifier.


 

 What do you think could be behind it?


----------



## autoteleology

Is the SR-Lambda (normal bias) worth getting next to the pro bias models? About how much should I pay for one in good condition?


----------



## rubenpp

Yes it is .. Paid $250 for mine , only had to replace the foam
dust covers.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Is the SR-Lambda (normal bias) worth getting next to the pro bias models? About how much should I pay for one in good condition?


 

 Very much worth it, the tonal balance is really nice probably the best of all the Lambdas. However, bass is lacking to a degree.


----------



## slopete

Anyone here have an interest in vintage Stax units?? I have 2 sets of SR Sigmas (low bias with cloth covered cable - yes, early serial nos). Also 1 each of SRD-7, SRE-15 and SRE- B3. Some of these items are seldom mentioned so I have included the original catalog pages for refreence.
   
  If interested, I can supply details and photos.
   
  Cheers


----------



## NoPants

enjoy your PM flood  I would be interested but I don't feel like changing the bias output of the kgsshv
   
  or spending more money


----------



## MacedonianHero

Guess what arrived today after work. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   

   
   
  Fantastic construction by Birgir! And the sound is simply amazing...dead quiet when no music is playing, but when it is...wowza! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Imaging is wider...like on the same plain with the HD800s, the bass is more controlled with more oomph and very clean sounding like the KGSS (no surprise...and a very good thing).
   
  I'll post more as I listen more...but anyone interested in a HeadAmp KGSS, please let me know.


----------



## jaycalgary

Lucky guy. I would hate the bright red power light. I want one of those for my 007 mk1's. Must be a very slight step up from the KGSS on the 009's.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Guess what arrived today after work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  The venetian blinds came in? nice
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  But seriously, the amp looks nice, too.


----------



## jaycalgary

I don't let any of my stats see sunlight.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Guess what arrived today after work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Looks nice MH. So is that it for awhile?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Lucky guy. I would hate the bright red power light. I want one of those for my 007 mk1's. Must be a very slight step up from the KGSS on the 009's.


 
  Actually more like the GS-X over the GS-1 so far. Worth it if you can find one!
  Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> I don't let any of my stats see sunlight.


 
  That's why the blinds are closed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> Looks nice MH. So is that it for awhile?


 
  Thanks Ed. Should be done for a good long while!


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Thanks Ed. Should be done for a good long while!


 
  Come on man, we all say that. My predictions say you will be rocking it all out with a BHSE next year.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Come on man, we all say that. My predictions say you will be rocking it all out with a BHSE next year.


 
  Maybe...but this tube guy has had a very liberated life the past year being "tubeless". Makes life very easy.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Maybe...but this tube guy has had a very liberated life the past year being "tubeless". Makes life very easy.


 
   
  A bit of the opposite for me. Glad to be back to tubes, the flexibility and fine tuning potential... oh yeah! 
  Seriously considering the Electra, only if there were more reviews. Need something to convince me. On the other hand the Electra isn't that far away in pricing to the BHSE.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> Maybe...but this tube guy has had a very liberated life the past year being "tubeless". Makes life very easy.


 
  Why not go back to vinyl as well?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Why not go back to vinyl as well?


 
  LoL, let's not go there. I'm keeping that door to that rabbit hole shut.


----------



## MacedonianHero

So some more impressions...very much in line with my thoughts of the GS-1 vs. the GS-X basically with the KGSS and the KGSSHV. Just more transparency, bass better controlled and hits harder and the soundstaging is basically on par with the excellent HD800s. 
   
  Damn this thing runs hot! But sounds top notch. Gonna be a long time before I use my dynamic/ortho headphones now.


----------



## SBranson

Beautiful amp.  I sorely wish I could've gotten your KGSS, and it was in country too...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





sbranson said:


> Beautiful amp.  I sorely wish I could've gotten your KGSS, and it was in country too...


 
  It did sell pretty quickly. Sorry.


----------



## DefQon

Your KGSS is already sold? Damn that is fast. But yet again, the only way to obtaining a KGSS/HV is through DIY or buying one of the used Headamp/DIY units which don't pop up very often at all.


----------



## livewire

Quote: 





defqon said:


> Your KGSS is already sold? Damn that is fast. But yet again, the only way to obtaining a KGSS/HV is through DIY or buying one of the used Headamp/DIY *KGSS* units which don't pop up very often at all.


 
   
  Defcon you been drinking again? *FIFY.*


----------



## gilency

Defcon is always level 1. 
Australian beer does that to you


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





livewire said:


> Defcon you been drinking again? *FIFY.*


 
  A 6 six pack every day mate....


----------



## Solshock

I don't mean to repeat myself here, but I'm wondering if anyone can offer any insight into my SR-5 issues. I'm now getting some buzzing in my left audio channel when the unit is idle and not playing music. The left channel ear speaker also seems to distort and crackle at certain frequencies which I haven't quite pinpointed yet. This can also be heard when listening to a recording with tape or recording hiss, which will intermittently cut out (the hiss only) and in quickly.  Is there a chance this is dust or hair, or is this unit FUBAR as far as I'm concerned? What about my SRD-6 energizer possibly being faulty?
   
  EDIT: Is it also okay if I have my SRD-6 plugged straight into my U.S. wall outlet? The back says its rated 100-230V, but I want to make sure I'm ruling out anything that could be causing this distortion.
   
  EDIT 2: It also seems like I can alleviate the problem by tipping my right ear toward my right shoulder, so that the earpad of my left driver is closer to parallel with the ground. The issue seems to go away when doing this. Is this a tell-tale sign of anything?
   
  EDIT 3: This may be cable related. I seem to be able to restore the left earspeaker to full working condition whilst awkwardly angling the left earcup cable. Anything more permanent that can be done?


----------



## shipsupt

So there are three problems, right?
   
  1.some buzzing in my left audio channel when the unit is idle and not playing music.
   
  2. The left channel ear speaker also seems to distort and crackle at certain frequencies.
   
  3. This can also be heard when listening to a recording with tape or recording hiss, which will intermittently cut out (the hiss only) and in quickly.


----------



## DefQon

Hair got stuck?


Bad cable?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> Is the SR-Lambda (normal bias) worth getting next to the pro bias models? About how much should I pay for one in good condition?


 
   
  I have not heard them, but some people really like the sound of the normal-bias Lambdas. I seem to recall the Spritzer had a few nice things to say about them- maybe look through the various posts and see what people have said about them.  
   
  They are pretty old by now, though, so before buying them I would either try to audition them, or get a money-back guarantee from the seller that they are working normally.  I think you can still find earpads and headbands that will fit, so even if the earpads or headband are beat up, you can fix that.  But the drivers and the dust seals, those I would want to make sure they worked OK.
   
  I am guessing that the lower-bias Lambdas will not play quite as loud and may have somewhat less bass "punch" than their high-bias counterparts, but people have praised their transparency.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *MacedonianHero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Thanks Ed. Should be done for a good long while!


 
   
  Oh?  No plans for getting a DIY T-2, the _ultimate_ Stax amp?  None have ever come up for sale as far as I know, but you never know, someone might need a liver transplant and have to sell his.... or you could contract to have one built....
   
  Along those lines, I wonder what it would go for?  Parts alone for a DIY T-2 can range from $2,500 up to over $5,000 depending on how crazy you get with NOS vintage tubes, jewel-like chassis building and things like $1,000 Alps pots or $500 stepped attenuators..... then there's the work involved with building and testing the thing.... and the rarity.... I would think someone might want to ask $7,500 to $10,000 for a DIY T-2 in fabulous casework with nice tubes and top quality attenuator etc....


----------



## Golfnutz

[size=medium]^ Actually, I was reading on another forum some lawyer dude in Toronto recently built one. I doubt he’ll be selling anytime soon, but you never know down the road. He’s right in your neck of the woods MH. I wonder how many times this guy was sitting in court wishing he was at home working on the T2 (assuming he was some type of trial lawyer).[/size]


----------



## DefQon

One of the guys here sold there T2 last year for 8k I think it was. He sold his Orpheus at the same time as well. Trying to find it now.


----------



## Solshock

Quote: 





shipsupt said:


> So there are three problems, right?
> 
> 1.some buzzing in my left audio channel when the unit is idle and not playing music.
> 
> ...


 
  That's correct.
  Quote: 





defqon said:


> Hair got stuck?
> 
> 
> Bad cable?


 
  I'm unsure. What does it sound like to you? Genuinely interested to hear what it may be, I don't want to take any drastic action now because I'm not very familiar with opening one of these things up to inspect. I'm now noticing popping sounds in both channels while playing music. Not sure what's happening here.
   
  Is it alright to use my SRD-6 with 120 U.S. voltage?


----------



## spritzer

Quote: 





jaycalgary said:


> Lucky guy. I would hate the bright red power light.


 
   
  It's not that bright actually, a far cry from the piercing blue lights.  That said, when I order a new batch of these custom made switches I'll probably have them orange or something like that.


----------



## davidsh

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's not that bright actually, a far cry from the piercing blue lights.  That said, when I order a new batch of these custom made switches I'll probably have them orange or something like that.


 
  Red and the like is the best, no doubt. There is nothing more annoying than blue colors at night when it is dark. Red doesn't blind you.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





duncan1 said:


> I have to agree with-3XO- tubes are there to take off a "perceived hardness " of SS and in doing so they round off the extreme ends of the music. Tubes by default cannot go down to the minute levels that SS can. But that is the "beauty of them" I don't own any tube equipment as I would rather buy a very well designed  piece of SS HI-Fi  that does NOT sound "hard" a lot dearer yes but you get the minute detail in the music that tubes cant reach.And not done by the vogue that's in the UK of "copying" tube "sound" by fitting tubes somewhere in the chain to soften it. Don't you realize that any SS amp or otherwise that sounds hard/edgy etc is NOT well designed. People pay many $10000 for this high quality . but you can design and build your own for a fraction of that.


 

 I disagree. Tube equipment can be very resolving and transparent - besides sounding more "natural". The problem is that ALL tubes that are new, i.e. from factories that are still in business, mostly sound horrible compared to good old ones from the 50s and early sixties, the ones with black plates and triple mica are among the very best. But they are disappearing fast or getting extremely expensive.
   
  There is a guy on hktubeaudio, his moniker is acfoo, who has studied the "factory sound" of all the old factories of the world very extensively. Sometimes you can get nice hints at hidden treasures, old tubes that are great sounding/resolving but still quite unknown ...


----------



## negura

I completely agree. Not sure what makes some of those really old 50s tubes sound so good, but the differences are sometimes huge in resolution and transparency to later models.


----------



## rgs9200m

I don't think you need old tubes all the time. I like Psvane tubes a lot, and Sophias are nice also, so some new tubes are nice too.
  I picked the psvane 6ns7 for my pinnacle after auditioning lots of vintage tungsols, sylvanias, rcas, and others, some more expensive than the psvanes.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Still looking for a Lambda Normal Bias...there's one for sale down here, but way too expensive for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Ali


----------



## 3X0

Quote: 





yawg said:


> I disagree. Tube equipment can be very resolving and *transparent *- besides* sounding more "natural"*. The problem is that ALL tubes that are new, i.e. from factories that are still in business, mostly sound horrible compared to good old ones from the 50s and early sixties, the ones with black plates and triple mica are among the very best. But they are disappearing fast or getting extremely expensive.


 
  Woah, be careful there.
   
  Linearity in tube designs is not approached nearly as easily or as affordably as it is with solid state designs. Maybe if we're talking SETs but you need to be more conservative with the verbiage.


----------



## DefQon

That's the biggest load of rubbish I've read all morning. (The person you quoted 3X0).


----------



## BournePerfect

My new Sophia Electric easily beat my NOS Tungsol and Brimars in my ZDSE-and by a fair margin.
   
  -Daniel


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Oh?  No plans for getting a DIY T-2, the _ultimate_ Stax amp?  None have ever come up for sale as far as I know, but you never know, someone might need a liver transplant and have to sell his.... or you could contract to have one built....
> 
> Along those lines, I wonder what it would go for?  Parts alone for a DIY T-2 can range from $2,500 up to over $5,000 depending on how crazy you get with NOS vintage tubes, jewel-like chassis building and things like $1,000 Alps pots or $500 stepped attenuators..... then there's the work involved with building and testing the thing.... and the rarity.... I would think someone might want to ask $7,500 to $10,000 for a DIY T-2 in fabulous casework with nice tubes and top quality attenuator etc....


 
  I'm sitting pretty for a while with the KGSSHV. Sitting down with The Wall and my SR-009/KGSSHV...so satisfying. That I'm gonna stay SS for a while...makes life easier I find (and this is from an old tube guy).


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> [size=medium]^ Actually, I was reading on another forum some lawyer dude in Toronto recently built one. I doubt he’ll be selling anytime soon, but you never know down the road. He’s right in your neck of the woods MH. I wonder how many times this guy was sitting in court wishing he was at home working on the T2 (assuming he was some type of trial lawyer).[/size]


 
  That's George. He's a great guy. I bought my KGSS from him. Very nice fellow. I should shoot him a PM about a mini-meet: KGSSHV, T2 and your BHSE.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> That's George. He's a great guy. I bought my KGSS from him. Very nice fellow. I should shoot him a PM about a mini-meet: KGSSHV, T2 and your BHSE.


 

 now thats a mini meet id love to hear some impressions from...lets make it happen


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





souprknowva said:


> now thats a mini meet id love to hear some impressions from...lets make it happen


 
  George isn't too far from me (about 25 minutes by car) and Ed is about 1.5 hours away....so who knows?


----------



## arnaud

There are so few of these focused mini-meet, I'd love to hear you guys put this together!


----------



## bearFNF

Yeah, that would be a great meet, I would have to travel way far south and east to get there with my LNB, though...


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Yeah, that would be a great meet, I would have to travel way far south and east to get there with my LNB, though...


 
  Sure, if you can make it. Not sure when/how to pull this together. The summer's been so busy...hopefully the fall slows down a bit.
   
  BTW, sorry, Canada is the Great White North according to the McKenzie brothers (SCTV for the younger Head-fiers):

   
  That said, Minnesota is a whole lot colder than Toronto.


----------



## fishski13

one of my favorite movies.  yes, we eat the cold for breakfast here in Minnesota.


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





fishski13 said:


> one of my favorite movies.  yes, we eat the cold for breakfast here in Minnesota.


 
  My wife's from Winnipeg (Manitoba) and with Minnesota plus North Dakota, the coldest places I've ever been.


----------



## bearFNF

Yep, it's cold, only two hours south of Winnipeg here, but I am a polar bear and like it that way.  Speaking of the Winnipeg, I need to put a bug in their ear to get another meet set-up...


----------



## MacedonianHero

bearfnf said:


> Yep, it's cold, only two hours south of Winnipeg here, but I am a polar bear and like it that way.  Speaking of the Winnipeg, I need to put a bug in their ear to get another meet set-up...




If you can get one going in the late spring, we're there visiting my wife's family.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





spritzer said:


> It's not that bright actually, a far cry from the piercing blue lights.  That said, when I order a new batch of these custom made switches I'll probably have them orange or something like that.


 
  Green can be nice.  Use a resistor, dim it down.
   
  White also has a kind of class to it; again - best if dimmed down a bit and not bright enough to read by.


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> My wife's from Winnipeg (Manitoba) and with Minnesota plus North Dakota, the coldest places I've ever been.


 
   
   
  Here in Chicago it can get quite cold, though not as often as Minnesota.  Also, we can -at times- get an awful lot of snow- there's a lake effect that can get set up and dump huge amounts of snow on certain areas hereabouts.  I am still fighting with insurance companies and contractors after the huge snowfall of Feb 2011 collapsed part of the roof of my warehouse.  That was the day that hundreds of motorists were trapped by snow on Lake Shore Drive.  http://chicago.cbslocal.com/2011/02/01/officials-shut-down-lake-shore-drive/
   
  When it gets cold, I wear headphones.


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





milosz said:


> Here in Chicago it can get quite cold, though not as often as Minnesota.  Also, we can -at times- get an awful lot of snow- there's a lake effect that can get set up and dump huge amounts of snow on certain areas hereabouts.  I am still fighting with insurance companies and contractors after the huge snowfall of Feb 2011 collapsed part of the roof of my warehouse.  That was the day that hundreds of motorists were trapped by snow on Lake Shore Drive.  http://chicago.cbslocal.com/2011/02/01/officials-shut-down-lake-shore-drive/
> 
> When it gets cold, I wear headphones.


 
  We have that too. It's called Buffalo...


----------



## Golfnutz

Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> That's George. He's a great guy. I bought my KGSS from him. Very nice fellow. I should shoot him a PM about a mini-meet: KGSSHV, T2 and your BHSE.


 
  In.


----------



## yawg

Quote: 





3x0 said:


> Woah, be careful there.
> 
> Linearity in tube designs is not approached nearly as easily or as affordably as it is with solid state designs. Maybe if we're talking SETs but you need to be more conservative with the verbiage.


 
  I mainly disagree about the statement that tubed stuff like DACs and amps are less resolving than SS. I had one of the most resolving SS amps ever made IMO, they were Stax, the CA-X Pro preamp and a pair of DA-100M 100W class A monoblocs. My current EAR 549 monos with Telefunken ECC83 (early 60s vintage) and GE 5751 (50s vintage) drivers sound better than my Stax set.
   
  My preamp is a German SS Audio Exclusiv P2 - I don't prefer tubes per se. I use whatever sounds best to my ears ...


----------



## Beefy

Quote: 





bearfnf said:


> Yep, it's cold, only two hours south of Winnipeg here, but I am a polar bear and like it that way.  Speaking of the Winnipeg, I need to put a bug in their ear to get another meet set-up...


 
   
  I'm moving to Winnipeg next month. If there is a meet, feel free to drop me a line.


----------



## GL1TCH3D

Kinda need dac help xP
Running the srm1mk2 (modded/replaced caps) to a sr007mk2/3 (aluminum cups, replaced drivers with the mk3 drivers.
Right now my dac is the parasound 1500 and while it's a nice dac, it doesn't mix well with the 007 unfortunately.
Any ideas? Looking for a very clean and transparent dac. I liked the nad when I tried it with my setup but it's above my price range =[


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





beefy said:


> I'm moving to Winnipeg next month. If there is a meet, feel free to drop me a line.


 
  OK, I will let you know.
  Quote: 





macedonianhero said:


> If you can get one going in the late spring, we're there visiting my wife's family.


 
  Roger, I will keep you posted.


----------



## davidsh

Regarding the pad depth issues.. I am going to use some very thick and durable double adhessive tape. My point is, there might be a couple of millimeters of ear space to gain that way.


----------



## n3rdling

try carpet tape


----------



## miceblue

Since Tyll from Innerfidelity hasn't measured any of the STAX units most people here are interested in (SR-Λ Pro, SR-Λ Signature, or SR-207), I thought I'd post these here.
   
  http://rinchoi.blogspot.com/2013/07/stax-sr-lambda-signature-legend-revised.html

   

   
  Quote: 





> *PRO:* A well-extended flat frequency response & clean transient characteristic. The pair is extremely well-matched. Not much of a step up from SR-Lambda Professional, but the performance is great nonetheless.
> 
> *CON: *A good acoustic seal is vital for sound reproduction below 100 Hz. It is such a shame that the cable is not replaceable.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #2: *Stax SR-Lambda Professional can be paired with its proprietary equalizer unit, ED-1, to simulate an accurate diffuse-field sound. Moreover, ED-1 can be used in conjunction with SR-Lambda Signature as well. The simulated result is a somewhat downward-tilted diffuse-field characteristic, which is more suitable for general music listening, as some listeners find the true diffuse-field target to be overly bright and harsh.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #3:* A free-field analysis has been carried out at various locations within the frontal volume of the housing using an accurately calibrated microphone. The test result suggests that the entire surface of SR-Lambda Signature's diaphragm is not behaving as uniform as originally expected, but definitely more symmetrical than that of SR-Lambda Professional.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #4: *By default, this headphone is far from the Olive-Welti target, meaning that the tonality is simply too harsh to be considered as hi-fidelity.  A substantial amount of equalization is needed here just like the predecessor, SR-Lambda Professional.


 
   
   
  http://rinchoi.blogspot.com/2013/06/stax-sr-lambda-professional-history.html

   

   
  Quote: 





> *PRO:* A well-extended flat frequency response & clean transient characteristic. Can't get much better than this.
> 
> *CON: *A good acoustic seal is vital for sound reproduction below 100 Hz.


 
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #2: *The proprietary equalizer, ED-1, turns Stax SR-Lambda Professional into the most accurate diffuse-field simulator ever made, with better accuracy than Etymotic Research ER-4B by effectively neutralizing some deep-nulls and peaks.
> ...
> However, an accurate diffuse-field headphone may sound too harsh & bright for some listeners, according to Olive and Welti. If that happens to be the case, coupling ED-1 to current SR-lambda based models should resolve the issue, as they have a slight attenuation in the treble. The consequential spectral balance will be close to that of a downward sloped diffuse-field target, which will be more comfortable to listen to.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #3: *A free-field analysis has been carried out at various locations within the frontal volume of the housing using an accurately calibrated microphone. The test result suggests that the entire surface of SR-Lambda Professional's diaphragm is not behaving as uniform as originally expected.


 

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #4:* By default, this headphone is far from the Olive-Welti target, meaning that the tonality is simply too harsh to be considered as hi-fidelity.  A substantial amount of equalization is needed here.


 
   
  http://rinchoi.blogspot.com/2013/08/stax-sr-207-back-to-basic.html

   

   
  Quote: 





> ​ *PRO: * A well-extended flat frequency response & clean transient characteristic. Without a doubt, SR-207 exhibits a good electroacoustic behavior within its entire frequency spectrum just like any other Lambda series models; Thus, it can be considered to have a great economic value.
> 
> *CON:* A slight channel mismatch above 1 kHz & inverted polarity. Again, a good acoustic seal is vital for sound reproduction below 100 Hz. It is such a shame that the cable is not replaceable.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #1: *Above data clearly shows the difference between Professional, Signature, and SR-207: As expected, compared to the other two, SR-207 is further damped by a few decibels in the treble for less harshness with its lower/higher ends further extended. Here's a rule of thumb for STAX headphones: The more recent the model is, the wider the frequency bandwidth becomes.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #2:* Just like any other Lambdas, SR-207 turns into an accurate diffuse-field synthesizer when it is equipped with STAX ED-1 equalizer. The simulated result is of a slight downward-tilted diffuse-field characteristic, which is more suitable for general music listening as some listeners find the true diffuse-field target of Professional to be overly bright and harsh.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #3:* A free-field analysis has been carried out at various locations within the frontal volume of the housing using an accurately calibrated microphone. The test result suggests that the entire surface of SR-207's diaphragm is not behaving uniformly just like any other Lambda series models, if not worse. The frequency response magnitude variation occurring at the polarized resonance frequency, 180 Hz,  indicates the diaphragm's stiffness has been slightly increased from that of the classic models.


 
   

   
  Quote: 





> *ON SECOND THOUGHT #4:* Just like the other Lambdas, this headphone is also far from the Olive-Welti target. A substantial amount of equalization is required to match Harman's target response.


----------



## DefQon

You posted the same thing twice. I call bs on the LP being harsh, it is pretty laid back with treble bit bright and uncalled for on some tracks. Each to his own I guess.


----------



## davidsh

Wouldn't call the LS harsh either. It can be shouty and slightly raspy if the vocals are too forward and aggressive.


----------



## miceblue

I know there are papers out there for it, but I really don't feel like going through them and digesting the information and instead just want a summary.
   
  What is the Olive-Welti target curve? Is that the ideal curve for a, what our ears hear as, flat sound? What's the HRTF function then?


----------



## davidsh

I want to ask a question as well. Why do you need HRTFs compensation curves at all? Why isn't a perfectly flat headphone enough? the world around us doesn't exactly adapt to a certain compensation curve.. Perfect measuring headphone with flat freq response reproducing perfectly recorded sounds = what?


----------



## arnaud

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I know there are papers out there for it, but I really don't feel like going through them and digesting the information and instead just want a summary.
> 
> What is the Olive-Welti target curve? Is that the ideal curve for a, what our ears hear as, flat sound? What's the HRTF function then?


 
   
  That's what Tyll's article is for: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/harman-researchers-make-important-headway-understanding-headphone-response
   
  Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I want to ask a question as well. Why do you need HRTFs compensation curves at all? Why isn't a perfectly flat headphone enough? the world around us doesn't exactly adapt to a certain compensation curve.. Perfect measuring headphone with flat freq response reproducing perfectly recorded sounds = what?


 
   
  Umm, that's what Tyll's article is for: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/harman-researchers-make-important-headway-understanding-headphone-response


----------



## DefQon

Also to add, a flat down to earth sounding headphone is not on everybody's preference list either. Genre and user taste is also important.


----------



## davidsh

So, basically compensation curves are made to emulate the freq respinse of sound coming from in front of you?


----------



## MacedonianHero

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> In.


 
  Excellent!
  Quote: 





beefy said:


> I'm moving to Winnipeg next month. If there is a meet, feel free to drop me a line.


 
  Oh man...get ready for those Winnipeg winters! Remember, the secret is a lot of layers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Seriously, great town. My second home really. Been going there since my wife and I were dating (more than 20 years now).


----------



## gilency

Quote: 





miceblue said:


> I know there are papers out there for it, but I really don't feel like going through them and digesting the information and instead just want a summary.


 
  There is a guy in another site who didn't feel like going through a thread because it was too long.
  These millennials!


----------



## miceblue

What
  Quote: 





> Boundry gain from your torso adds a bit of mid-range energy


 

   
   
  Quote: 





> Audio engineers have long established two curves as important for compensating for the HRTF: Free Field, and Diffuse Field. The Free Field curve models what is heard at the ear drum with sound coming from directly in front of you and without any reflected energy—like if your were listening to a speaker in an anechoic chamber. The Diffuse Field curve models what you'd hear at the ear drum if you were in a very live room (all concrete walls) with speakers placed in numerous places around the room pumping it full of energy—in other words, what's heard at the ear-drum with flat sound coming at you from all directions.
> 
> The problem, as I see it, is that neither of these compensations model what would be heard at the ear drum listening to two good speakers in an acoustically treated listening room, which, I would assume, is what headphones are supposed to be mimicking.


 
  So basically he's saying the HRTF stuff is completely useless for us and headphone measurements. Excellent. I'm glad we use it.
   
  Quote: 





> Spoiler alert: Flat, neutral response was preferred.


 
  Flat as in.....good speaker-room flat?
   
  Quote: 





> the heavy weight and higher clamping force of the Audeze LCD-2 v2 may have made it identifiable in the standard test.


 
  Yeah.......the LCD-2 is like wearing dumbbells on your ears; it's not easy to identify at all.


----------



## telecaster

HRTF is completely relevant for headphone because of the lack of it. In the future, democratized Smyths realizer will be available.
   
  Headphones cannot mimic speakers without it. Diffuse field is an attempt.
   
  And bravo guys you are smarter than the Stax engineers?


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





golfnutz said:


> We have that too. It's called Buffalo...


 
  Oh yeah, in those parts of New York they get some HUGE snowfalls!  More snow than Chicago, absolutely.


----------



## bearFNF

Quote: 





telecaster said:


> HRTF is completely relevant for headphone because of the lack of it. In the future, democratized Smyths realizer will be available.
> 
> Headphones cannot mimic speakers without it. Diffuse field is an attempt.
> 
> *And bravo guys you are smarter than the Stax engineers?*


 
  Heh, actually some of them may be "smarter" but it is not how smart you are but the knowledge you have and how you apply it that matters in most cases.


----------



## telecaster

They actually are maybe way smarter than Stax, that's why I would encourage them to found a new electrosatic headphone company


----------



## davidsh

I'm cleaning the black goo off my pads and the frame of the driver housing. I hate it!!!! That god awful double adhesive has become black goo, can't imagine it was ever double sided tape... I have spent like 1 and a  half hour, still got an hour left of this.


----------



## Sibaleit

Hey I have a Sr-3 and a srd-7 energizer. When no music is playing a notice a buzzing sound. However, if I touch the end of the cable or the metal amp I'm using, the sound goes away. Also, when I plug it into a grounded stax amp, the sound goes away. Does anyone know any way to get rid of the sound entirely?


----------



## steve2151

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> I'm cleaning the black goo off my pads and the frame of the driver housing. I hate it!!!! That god awful double adhesive has become black goo, can't imagine it was ever double sided tape... I have spent like 1 and a  half hour, still got an hour left of this.


 
   
  Goo Gone works wonders for this sort of stuff. It completely stripped some black gunk off a secondhand pair of K701 that I picked up a while back.


----------



## jaycalgary

Is Goo Gone a type of toilet paper?


----------



## Beefy

jaycalgary said:


> Is Goo Gone a type of toilet paper?




Just don't use a pure xylene solvent. It is awful for your pink parts.


----------



## steve2151

It's a citrus based cleaner. Soak anything sticky in it and it'll come right off.
   
http://www.amazon.com/Homax-Oz-Goo-Gone-GG12/dp/B00006IBNJ


----------



## autoteleology

Wow, what a shame that these have dust in the drivers. They are in such excellent condition otherwise.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321188516719?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## davidsh

Well, all goo is almost gone. Except some is stuck on both the pads and the driver housing! I'm surprised no one has commented on my swearing yet, you must have heard it across the big pond.


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





davidsh said:


> Well, all goo is almost gone. Except some is stuck on both the pads and the driver housing! I'm surprised no one has commented on my swearing yet, you must have heard it across the big pond.


 
   
  Trust me I can relate to the pain you're going through now when I owned the original Lambda's and the black double tape turned into a mess between the baffle and the pads. It took me lot of elbow grease and effort cleaning the gunk off till I tried a substitute product similar to Goo Gone.


----------



## davidsh

Ohh well. I'll try to clean it off with ethanol later today...


----------



## milosz

Quote: 





steve2151 said:


> Goo Gone works wonders for this sort of stuff. It completely stripped some black gunk off a secondhand pair of K701 that I picked up a while back.


 
  I have also used  'Goof Off'  which is available at hardware stores, it does the trick.


----------



## davidsh

Should've known that earlier...


----------



## autoteleology

I'm starting to regret selling my SR-303 because I'm finding it to be almost impossible to find any of the vintage earspeakers I wanted to replace them with. Now, I have a big fancy full-size amplifier (SRM-1/MK2) and nothing but an electret (SR-40) to use them with.


----------



## dukeskd

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I'm starting to regret selling my SR-303 because I'm finding it to be almost impossible to find any of the vintage earspeakers I wanted to replace them with. Now, I have a big fancy full-size amplifier (SRM-1/MK2) and nothing but an electret (SR-40) to use them with.


 

 You will have to be patient as is the case with vintage gear. You will notice that most of the vintage gear starts popping up during autumn and winter.


----------



## Ali-Pacha

Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> You will have to be patient as is the case with vintage gear. You will notice that most of the vintage gear starts popping up during autumn and winter.


 
  Interesting...the season for normal bias hunting will open soon.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Ali


----------



## DefQon

Quote: 





tus-chan said:


> I'm starting to regret selling my SR-303 because I'm finding it to be almost impossible to find any of the vintage earspeakers I wanted to replace them with. Now, I have a big fancy full-size amplifier (SRM-1/MK2) and nothing but an electret (SR-40) to use them with.


 
  LOL! The smartest thing you could've done was keep those SR-303 till you find and buy a vintage Lambda then compare and sell off whichever one you prefer least (which imo is hard). But hey at least you got those SR-40's sounding there best with the SRM1 MK2 lol. Fyi, they sound better on Pro-bias if you haven't tried.
  Quote: 





dukeskd said:


> You will have to be patient as is the case with vintage gear. You will notice that most of the vintage gear starts popping up during autumn and winter.


 
  Autumn, Spring and Summer a lot of channel imbalanced Lambda's pop up here.


----------



## autoteleology

Quote: 





defqon said:


> LOL! The smartest thing you could've done was keep those SR-303 till you find and buy a vintage Lambda then compare and sell off whichever one you prefer least (which imo is hard).


 
   
  My income situation as a teenager is horrendous. I couldn't even afford to match your apparent daily alcohol intake, much less afford to buy new (old) electronics without selling off old ones.


----------



## SoupRKnowva

defqon said:


> Fyi, they sound better on Pro-bias if you haven't tried.




Wait...wut? -_-


----------



## autoteleology

> Wait...wut? -_-


 
   
  Yeah, that makes no sense. Electrets only have four pins because they don't even draw bias voltage. I hope you're either joking or seriously drunk.


----------



## serg604

Has anybody compared SRM-006tS with SRM-600LTD? is it good idea to replace my 006ts with 600ltd for use with sr-407 or somehing better (probably still not enough for O2...)?
  Thanks


----------



## DefQon

tus-chan said:


> My income situation as a teenager is horrendous. I couldn't even afford to match your apparent daily alcohol intake, much less afford to buy new (old) electronics without selling off old ones.




Hey I'm not much older and I get most of my alcohol for free. 




tus-chan said:


> Yeah, that makes no sense. Electrets only have four pins because they don't even draw bias voltage. I hope you're either joking or seriously drunk.




I'm not joking few guys have posted here that it sounds better so I tried my old SR-30's on my Xh and it definitely sounded better than the SRD-6 adapter. Try it out.


----------



## autoteleology

> I'm not joking few guys have posted here that it sounds better so I tried my old SR-30's on my Xh and it definitely sounded better than the SRD-6 adapter. Try it out.


 
   
  So, this observation wasn't even carried out on an amp that has both a Pro and Normal bias output (SRM-1/MK2, T1, etc)? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I would try it out myself but I won't have access to any of the stuff I own until the 26th, since I'm on vacation.


----------



## EveTan

Haven't followed on Stax for some time. Tus-chan, did you sell off your "portable" rig yet? Hence all the Wanted classified-s?


----------



## autoteleology

Yes, I actually managed to sell every single part of it very quickly (still waiting for the confirmed buyer to pony up the funds for the Little Dot 1+ so I can ship, though). And yes, that is exactly why I have all the Wanted ads out - I don't have anything of real value to use my shiny new SRM-1-MK2 with anymore, and I want to get cream of the crop Lambdas.


----------



## EveTan

Props to you .
   
  I wish you luck on your Stax journey. 
   
  I'll be staying away from huge setups, so Stax will be for another day.


----------



## DefQon

And a TH900 isn't a big setup?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





defqon said:


> And a TH900 isn't a big setup?


 
  Nope . I plan on just going out with it using an ipod. Go ahead, ridicule me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  On a more serious note, It has one less box than a Stax setup. DAC-->SRM-->SR vs DAC/O2-->TH900


----------



## DairyProduce

Couldn't you get a decent stax system going with the price of a TH900?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





dairyproduce said:


> Couldn't you get a decent stax system going with the price of a TH900?


 
  I didn't like any of the Lambdas sadly. The only pair I liked was the SR-009, and that's also out of reach.


----------



## AnakChan

evetan said:


> I didn't like any of the Lambdas sadly. The only pair I liked was the SR-009, and that's also out of reach.


No SR-007's for you to test? Funny, I didn't take you as the 009 kinda chap. Can't remember where I read (maybe from your 202 impressions) but I thought you liked warmer signatures?


----------



## EveTan

Quote: 





anakchan said:


> No SR-007's for you to test? Funny, I didn't take you as the 009 kinda chap. Can't remember where I read (maybe from your 202 impressions) but I thought you liked warmer signatures?


 
  007 was kinda bland.. Of course meet impressions aren't always the best for listening. But the 009s blew everything out of the waters. 
  So if I were to settle down, that would be the one I'd get.
   
  Hmm. I like vocals alot. But the 202s were a bit too bright for me, making those high female notes painful. Which strikes strange, as I didn't have that problem with the Kaedes. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.


----------



## DefQon

I did warn ya about the 202 being potentially bright for some users. Imo the 009 is bright as well but I guess that ethereal in your face out of nowhere sound makes up for it.

If you want the best sounding headphone for vocals especially female vocals imho any of the higher tier AT + HA-02 amp is the best to date I've heard for vocals/treble music. Better than any Stax.


----------



## Currawong

Too much off-topic posting lately, so I've restarted the thread here:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/677809/the-stax-thread-iii


----------



## Olschl

Tus-Chan said:


> Yeah, that makes no sense. Electrets only have four pins because they don't even draw bias voltage. I hope you're either joking or seriously drunk.



My electrets have 5 pins. SR40 and SR30. However, the 5th pin is a dummy, so it doesn't even connect to the bias voltage. I have connected them to the SRD-7 that drives my SR-x Mark 3s.

But that is not why I logged in.
I need replacement pads and contacted Stax USA. I ordered the pads; but they are backordered. Sent them 3 messages through their site since 5/30 and so far no reply. Has anyone else had recent communication with Stax USA?


----------



## jcn3

Olschl said:


> My electrets have 5 pins. SR40 and SR30. However, the 5th pin is a dummy, so it doesn't even connect to the bias voltage. I have connected them to the SRD-7 that drives my SR-x Mark 3s.
> 
> But that is not why I logged in.
> I need replacement pads and contacted Stax USA. I ordered the pads; but they are backordered. Sent them 3 messages through their site since 5/30 and so far no reply. Has anyone else had recent communication with Stax USA?



this thread is not in use in longer (note the date of the entry before yours).  the current thread is here.


----------



## Olschl

jcn3 said:


> this thread is not in use in longer (note the date of the entry before yours).  the current thread is here.


OopS! Thanks, JC.


----------



## wink

I just LOVE necro-bumps.......


----------



## Shure or bust

Anyone else using a KGSS DX Edition? Mines a 2006 original unit that I paired with a Stax L700. Should I sell it and get a Woo Audio WEE instead?


----------



## loligagger

Shure or bust said:


> Anyone else using a KGSS DX Edition? Mines a 2006 original unit that I paired with a Stax L700. Should I sell it and get a Woo Audio WEE instead?



A Wee would be a downgrade.


----------



## Shure or bust

loligagger said:


> A Wee would be a downgrade.



I'll keep it then haha. Im going speakers so I thought I would hit 2 birds with one stone since its pretty bulky. I'll just put it under my desk on a shelf instead of getting a Wee.


----------



## wink

Shure or bust said:


> Anyone else using a KGSS DX Edition? Mines a 2006 original unit that I paired with a Stax L700. Should I sell it and get a Woo Audio WEE instead?



No, just NO....!


----------



## charliex

I have a KGSS recently re-capped and would NEVER consider selling it.


----------



## Clean6eR

hi,

i have a SRM-Xh which i plugged the wrong polarity into and now no sound comes out,

its a green pcb "PB-201 08438-00210" (no fuse or protection diode to replace that im aware of)

it has the red led on the front of the unit working but the two internal red LED's are not lit up.

i found the posts by "Tus-Chan" who has the same issue and kevin gilmore and defqon offered help.

i followed that help and ordered two new mosfets (2sk940) and one new regulator (3524) also recapped the whole board.

i got the parts one after another, so i recapped it all to start and tested (no change) then i switched the mosfets out (both of them) no change and finally today just switched out the regulator and hoped it would all fire up, but alas it has not changed in anyway.

can anybody help me?


----------



## DJ The Rocket (Dec 11, 2017)

Germs said:


> Is the original 727 flawed and it is better to buy a second hand 717, or the 717 has the same issue ?



I figure this question is still applicable today, since I stressed over the same thing before I got a SRM-727A a year ago. It all goes back to that one goddamn Tyll review. He says he didn't like the amp, and so all of a sudden the consensus opinion is that it sucks, or it's flawed, or whatever. It's a hell of a stretch to call the 727 "flawed."

After listening to it for a year with a pair of Lambda Pros, I  have to say it's the best headphone system I've ever heard. Listening to a quality recording on it still blows me away. I'm sure some people are going to like it more or less than others, but that's hardly unique for audio kit.

I feel it needs a preamp to sound its best (it is a _power amp, _not an integrated amp, after all), though IME it's not that important for some sources, and absolutely essential for others. I'm still learning about circuits, but if I understand right, feeding it with a powerful preamp changes it's behavior to more closely match what the Spritzer mod does anyway.

FTR I'm using a Schiit Magni 3 for my preamp and it sounds fantastic, though I didn't like the results of flipping the switch inside the 727 to "Direct" and using the preamp to control volume. The Stax volume pot is audibly quieter than the one on the Magni, and I get the best results with my Schiit at 100% volume/low gain, using the 727 pot for volume. 

I'm thinking about performing the Spritzer mod anyway, or the feedback half at least. Messing with the gain seemed like asking for more trouble than I'm prepared to handle, even before I heard about it getting squirrelly. I'm just curious to hear what everyone else raves about after the mod. Perhaps I'll like it better too, but I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't. The bass is pretty tight already, and I worry about losing bass quantity, even if I get a little better quality in exchange. But you can never know until you try it



visualguy said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes, I agree with everything @visualguy says here.

I know that solid state gear typically needs to be left on for 24 hrs. or so to warm up completely (and IME the 727 sounds as bad as Tyll thought it did before it's warmed up for 30 or 45 mins at least). I know that it only costs an extra dollar or two per year to leave it on constantly, but it just feels wrong leaving a class A amp on 24/7 forever


----------



## DJ The Rocket

Clean6eR said:


> hi,
> 
> i have a SRM-Xh which i plugged the wrong polarity into and now no sound comes out



Oh hell no! I hope it's repairable. What did you see when you looked inside? I presume you'd have mentioned any visible damage, broken board traces etc. Is yours one of the ones with a fuse? 

Why did you replace the caps? Were they blown? I'd think/hope that only the power supply caps would be in danger. What about the mosfets, did you test them or just replace them? Knowing exactly what parts tested bad (and what parts tested fine) would help understand what actually happened. 

I hope you also ordered an appropriate diode to prevent this sort of thing from happening again


----------



## DJ The Rocket (Jan 6, 2018)

milosz said:


> _After one look at this planet any visitor from outer space would say, 'I want to see the manager.'"_
> -William S. Burroughs



Look at that, another fan of the Beats here! Hell yeah man. I definitely relate to Burroughs the most out of all of them, minus the whole junk addiction bit.

Now Burroughs, there's a man who would have appreciated a Stax rig at his house. Later life Burroughs only of course, when he mostly stable living with Jane in New Orleans I think it was. I can just see Burroughs getting mad at Jack every time he visited, he surely would have stayed up all night listening to jazz records, not letting anybody else have a turn. And what would Neal Cassidy have thought? He'd have eventually turned Kesey on to e-stats as well, which would have influenced the Grateful Dead and probably Joplin and others in turn... Of course she and Jimi and Jim actually could have gotten a real Stax by the time they came around I think. I wonder if any of them ever did, and how I could find out. 

What if Burroughs had access to a Stax machine in Morocco when he was writing Naked Lunch (and wasn't able to pawn it for bug powder). Would Stax Lambda have been a character like his typewriter Clark Nova? That really could have worked, maybe the story wouldn't have come out so dark, then


----------



## Clean6eR (Feb 9, 2018)

DJ The Rocket said:


> Oh hell no! I hope it's repairable. What did you see when you looked inside? I presume you'd have mentioned any visible damage, broken board traces etc. Is yours one of the ones with a fuse?
> 
> Why did you replace the caps? Were they blown? I'd think/hope that only the power supply caps would be in danger. What about the mosfets, did you test them or just replace them? Knowing exactly what parts tested bad (and what parts tested fine) would help understand what actually happened.
> 
> I hope you also ordered an appropriate diode to prevent this sort of thing from happening again


So sorry for not getting back earlier, i tried the two parts the other two suggested and no sound, i have ordered new versions of the fets, and i have today replaced the smaller ones (a1413) and am waiting to test it this evening, i have the green pcb srm-xh with no fuse or diode to protect from my stupidity!

the lights come on but no sound comes out, i lost me link to this thread so hadn't updated, i will tonight if the little chips do or dont work and hopefully my larger c4631's will be at home ready for me to try switching them in.

i assume none of the resistors will have blown from a polarity issue but ill test all of them now...

just got new sr507 and 006t amp and im looking forward to fixing this so i can compare it to the 006t

(when i looked inside post bust i noticed one of the 4 caps near the transformer was wired in the wrong way around!!! and it was bulging, thats why i switched the caps out)


*WORK DONE SO FAR:*

This is a picture of the same board i have






The 6 big black caps i replaced with rubycon 250v 33uF caps (when i opened it one was wired in the wrong way!)
i then following KG advice to another user:   "edit: I found another unit, also a srm-xh with a different boardthat does not have the fuse or the protection diode.(PB201-08438-00210) much olderif you have this one, and the led on the front panel lights upwhen you turn it on, then you are likely going to have to replacethe ic (SG3524D or equivalent) and the 2 transistors 2sk940if the 2 led's on the circuit board do not light up."*at this point the lights are all on (they were before i did this too!) but no sound INCORRECT!!! the front red led is on but the two led's inside are not lighting up!*
Today i have replaced the 4 x a1413 and i am waiting to get home to plug it in and test again *the front red led is on but the two led's inside are not lighting up!*
i also have order the larger 8 x c4631 to try replacing

i have now checked all diodes and resistors and found them to work.

does anyone know what else i should try?


----------



## kevin gilmore

suggest you measure the output voltages of the switcher. + and - 250 or so


----------



## Clean6eR (Feb 9, 2018)

kevin gilmore said:


> suggest you measure the output voltages of the switcher. + and - 250 or so


i think im measuring the wrong thing but the switch on the front is just taking the 14v from the psu? where do i find the switcher? (im pretty poor with electronics but am happy to learn things!) is it one of the transistors? if so which one?

i i measured the two transistors i soldered in, they are 14v too and the PWM chip i added i measured the ground and ref out (14v) and vcc(14v too)






i measure the two transistors in blue on the right and got 14v

i measured the two red points and the red and blue point on the pwm IC and got 14v


----------



## kevin gilmore

The voltage on the 250v caps.

But easier is to just measure the bias voltage on the stax jack. Should be around 300v with a 10Meg ohm meter. Measure to Rca input ground.
If its zero the high voltage supply is not working.


----------



## Clean6eR (Feb 8, 2018)

kevin gilmore said:


> The voltage on the 250v caps.
> 
> But easier is to just measure the bias voltage on the stax jack. Should be around 300v with a 10Meg ohm meter. Measure to Rca input ground.
> If its zero the high voltage supply is not working.








After checking the right stuff (Bias and the caps) none of them are pumping anything out, they have a small value like 1-2 mv then drop to zero.

This sounds like bad news... anything i can do? 

and thank you for taking the time to help.


----------



## kevin gilmore

Replace the sg3524


----------



## Clean6eR (Feb 9, 2018)

kevin gilmore said:


> Replace the sg3524



The one that was originally in there had

3524D
JRC A4011A

written on it.

then one i put in is in the above picture saying

SG3524N

have i just bought the wrong replacement?


when i broke it at the start i searched the net and found your advice to replace two transistors and the SG chip. i found a link in this thread on where to buy both parts and did. 
the transistors turned up first but didnt have the EXACT same numbers on them as each other, they were soldered in first.
i then tried the amp with just those two things replaced and nothing improved, then the SG chip turned up and i swapped that in, still nothing changed.

could the old busted IC taken out the new transistors then when i put the new IC (SG) they crapped that out too?

it seems like that may not have happened as the transistors are measuring 14v on one leg and 0L on the other (this suggests they work?)

I'm on the hunt for another IC to see if replacing it clears everything up (im in the UK so will start looking in rapid electronics as they are close to me...)

i'd be well happy if i get this working, i wont be selling it either, it will be my proud amp!

I was going to try one of your KGSSHV amps but thought i should fix this first, given how little I'm understanding here i think i might be better to start saving LOTS of money for one of spritzers made ones...


----------



## thinker (Feb 9, 2018)




----------



## kevin gilmore

you are unlikely to fix this with just a voltmeter.
borrow an oscilloscope and see whether there are switching outputs from the pwm chip
if desperate put the voltmeter on ac and troubleshoot that way


----------



## Clean6eR

kevin gilmore said:


> you are unlikely to fix this with just a voltmeter.
> borrow an oscilloscope and see whether there are switching outputs from the pwm chip
> if desperate put the voltmeter on ac and troubleshoot that way



WOW they aint cheap! just went to our science lab to borrow one and it came out on a trolley! (i think they will miss it if i cart it to the bus) I'm looking up buying one cheaply online but they seem not the cheapest of tools.

I will try the ol wait for replacement parts and try switching them out one more time, this time paying uber attention to the solder work, then when it fails bring it in to work after the holiday to use the expensive stuff.

thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes, really looking forward to comparing it to my 006t


----------



## Clean6eR




----------



## Clean6eR (Feb 10, 2018)

sometimes being an idiot can reap such joy

so, looked at IC and found one leg i hadn't soldered to the board!!!

shes working!!!! the red light came on and a smile roused, plugged in my beater sr202's and the above happy elephant picture was the best way to illustrate my feelings.

ill post my comparison after i have had some time with it.

thank you KG and the others who have given me there help and time.

YAY again!

now i have LOADS of chips incoming but i can drown out my stupidity with music so all is well


*UPDATE:
*




*Gear: *
sr Gamma normal
Lamba normal bias (not sure what they are)
sr 202
sr 307
sr 507
srm 006t
srm xh 
marantz pm 7005
senhiser hdvd800

*dac choice:
*
As the 006t is balanced in I thought trying my dacmagic 2i or hdvd800 would be comparing as they have balanced out. the dacmagic sounded scratchy and brittle so i took the hdvd800 into the comparison. when listening to it in the comparison i felt it was soft and warm sounding, I felt like i could fall asleep listening to it. This is not what i like from my music.

I thought i'd try all my dacs out and ended up REALLY liking the marantz pm7005. it was peppy sounding, details are more obvious but still sit in the soundscape and are not compressed into a lump of noise (i have a ad1955 based yulong dac that does this, it has electrical noise at EXTREME volumes)

I am going to start looking for balanced and highly resolving and spacious sounding dacs but for now the marantz is the best of my situation for dac duty, I'm open to suggestions.

_*ear speaker choice*:_

I remember getting into headphones and this site and the first time i got what i thought was a high end set of phones in the k701. The way i was hearing things i hadn't known was in the songs i loved and they sounded like they were in the room in there own odd places. It was a holographic experience that i fell in love with.

Getting the ad700 at first the searing treble amazed me, like a cloth getting removed from the sound, but the airy and strange positioning or location of the k701 i didn't find as captivating with the ad700. I wanted the resolution and bite of the ad700 with the giggles of the k701's positioning. Saved hard, got deal on ad2000 and detail went SILLY! but the sound-stage was non existent they were like an immediate and in my face sound but that detail!!!! This was a mistake buy. I ended up with the hd800 and pretty much had what i was after, then i got the gamma normal bias and a srd-6 and hooked it up to a cheap diy t amp. VERY different sound, like how the Denon D2000 had a new style with its biocelouse driver(gave a different "type" of sound) i was interested...

Bought all the stuff i listed at the top and now I'm comparing the two amps, i struggle to tell massive differences between the 202 307 and 507, the normal bias ones are very relaxing sounding and special but i can't use them for this comparison as they are normal bias. I will be using the 507 because they cost the most to be honest, i will need to compare the ear-speakers more in the future.

*The Amps;

SRM-006t:
*
Never brittle or harsh sounding, artists and instruments all sound in a location and none right on top of me. Times when a sparkle or crash happen in a location i don't expect it grabs my attention but its done in a subtle and classy fashion, makes me smirk and think "niceee"

*SRM-Xh:
*
Faster faster! things overall are closer to me, the vocals on some songs feel on top of me but with that all detail seems more etched or present (reminds me of my grado sr323) fun and instantly gratifying, rarely the sparkles or crashes occur but when they do i feel they are further out of place which again engages more.

*Comparison:
*
Well its big warm and spacious with more bass presence on the 006t or faster more etched but in my head fun from the Xh. the 006t has more bass but i feel like its less controlled than the Xh which is odd given the power difference, doh! my dream is the combination of two! don't think tubes are for me but this little Xh as fun as I'm finding it lacks the open air and distance i crave.

might try new dac first then look at better amp for these

thank you again for helping me fix my Xh, i might just use this instead of my 006t as its less hassle, space, power and i prefer the immediate sound of it


----------



## Vesperaudio

Just wanted to inform everyone, we have lambda custom earpads available now.


----------



## Keithpgdrb

Vesperaudio said:


> Just wanted to inform everyone, we have lambda custom earpads available now.


 Do you have them to fit the original sr lambdas?  Normal bias


----------



## Vesperaudio

This pair was designed for L700. If you mean adhessive mounted SR507 order is also possible.


----------



## ml48

Hi,can anyone help with problems I have with a first version of the srm-1 mk2 stax amp.The offset stays around -120v and adjusters have virtually no affect and the balance of the right channel stays around -30v with adjuster hardly changing this voltage.I have changed all the electrolytic caps but not the blue and brown film caps.All the resistors seem to have the correct value.The bias voltage is 175v,is this ok the resistor value is 3.3m which I think is wrong.


----------



## JimL11

This is an old thread, you really need to post this on the Stax thread III.


----------



## ml48

Thanks for letting me know the right place to put the question.


----------



## Rodeodave

Okay, so this is what the input to the primary side of the transformer of my newly acquired SRM-007tA looks like. Just two wires...

Being from Japan, the unit is configured for 100VAC. I guess this is bad news for my plans to convert the amp to 240VAC input?


----------



## Hubert481

Vesperaudio said:


> Just wanted to inform everyone, we have lambda custom earpads available now.


What is the price for one pair - thank you


----------



## padam

Rodeodave said:


> Okay, so this is what the input to the primary side of the transformer of my newly acquired SRM-007tA looks like. Just two wires...
> 
> Being from Japan, the unit is configured for 100VAC. I guess this is bad news for my plans to convert the amp to 240VAC input?



Yes, I think the last version of these amps (where it says "driver unit for earspeakers" on the back) cannot be converted.


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## Rodeodave

Damn Stax bastards.

Well, guess I'll be putting together a 240V/100V isolation transformer with a nice line filter then...


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## yawg

Since Stax was bought by an American corp. it's not the real Japanese Stax anymore which had a "Samurai philosophy", to serve the customer to the max. Now it's just a profit-maximizing scam. I'm happy with my old-school Staxen. Won't touch the new stuff. Just saying.


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## Olschl

Don't blame America. I believe it was a Chinese corp.


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## Olschl

Could I get some quick advice please? I have a SRX MkIII/SRD-7 combo. The volume is a little lower on the left at times, occasionally there is a hum when no music is playing, and the SRD-7 is pretty ancient. I was thinking that something like a SRM-313 would be a better bet than having the SRD-7 rebuilt. (I have no experience with a soldering iron) Well, a SRM-313 has become available. My questions are:
a) would it be a significant sonic upgrade, beyond having R/L volume control?
b) Would I be better served spending the money on a pair of Oppo PM-3s?
My budget is restricted.


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## JimL11

This thread is an older one, most Stax people have migrated over to Stax Thread III.


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## Olschl

Thanks. I must have forgotten to include email notifications when I subscribed to III.


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## AnakChan

yawg said:


> Since Stax was bought by an American (Fixed: Chinese) corp. it's not the real Japanese Stax anymore which had a "Samurai philosophy", to serve the customer to the max. Now it's just a profit-maximizing scam. I'm happy with my old-school Staxen. Won't touch the new stuff. Just saying.


Whilst folks are moving to the Stax III thread, I just wanna clarify one point, in discussions with Stax and Edifier, Edifier has not influenced the Stax culture in Japan and given Stax in Japan autonomy to the designs and production. However, what potentially may happen is, there may be _other_ Stax products that may not necessarily be made in Japan.


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## AnakChan

Stax III thread here


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